RECENTLY PUBLISHED BY COLONEL WOOD-MAETIN, M.E.I. A., HISTORY OF SLIGO, COUNTY & TOWN, FROil THE (I.) EARLIEST TIMES TO THE CLOSE OF THE REIGN OF QUEEN ELIZABETH; (II.) ACCESSION OF JAMES I. TO THE REVOLUTION 0F1688; (lll.)CLOSE OF THE REVOLUTION OF 1688 TO THE PRESENT TIME; WITH SHustrations from Original Dratuingsf anb piansf; In Three Vols., 8vo, Cloth. Vols. I. & II., each 70s.; Vol. III., 75s. EUDE STONE MONUMENTS of IRELAND (COUITY SlIGO aucl the ISLAND of ACHILL). Royal 8 vo, elegant, with 209 Engravings, Price 75s. SLIGO AND THE ENNISKILLENERS, From 1688-1691. Second Edition, Crown 8vo, Cloth, Price 3s. 6d. THE LAKE DWELLINGS OP IRELAND; OK, Ancient Lacustriiie Hal)itations of Eriu, commonly called Crannogs. Royal 8vo, Cloth, with 300 Engravings, Price 25s. J(*f«* ■< - if^^ i^ — - ^ V ^o^^ «P si /, o o HISTORY OF 8LIG0, COUNTY AND TOWN, FROM THE CLOSE OF THE EEYOLUTION OF 1688 TO THE PRESENT TIME. Illustrations from ©risinal I9raijjinfis anti plans. BY W. G. WOOD-MARTIN, COL., SLIGO ARTILLERY. AUTHOR OF "The Lake Drvellmgs of Ireland; The Rude Stone Monuments of Ireland (County Sligo); &'C. &'C. U|ii6.ttAm Uimce^^tl 8115150. "Shall we tread the dust of ages, Musing dream-like on the past, Seeking on the broad earth's pages For the shadows Time hath cast." n UBLIN: HODGES, FIGGIS, AND CO., GRAFTON STREET. MDCCCXCII. [ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. \ DUBLIN : PRINTED AT THE UNITE KSITY PRESS, BY PONSONBY AND WELDKICK. PREFACE. WORK entitled "The Rude Stone Monuments OF Ireland (Co. Sligo)" contains all the informa- tion that the writer could gather concerning the local megalithic structures of primitive antiquity scattered throughout the district. Next comes " The History of Sligo, County and Town," which, beginning at the legendary period, carries the recital down to the close of the Reign of Uueen Elizabeth. The second part of this work, starting from the accession of James I., continues the narration almost to the close of the 17th century; and from that date, the present volume carries it on to the times in which we now live. Much of the information herein contained has been extracted from old newspapers, pamphlets, and publications of every sort relating to the district. Many interesting details have been kindly furnished by friends who, either from long residence or family connexion with the county, became well acquainted with tlie traditions still current in many rural localities. For those whose homes are in the district of which this history treats, it can scarcely fail to be of interest tg know how their imme- diate forefathers lived, and how our various institutions grew up and developed. It is hoped that, after perusal of this volume, the reader when laying it down may have a feeling 20G1197 VI PREFACE, of more lively interest and more earnest love for the County and Town of Sligo. The district possesses, in one respect, a unique characteristic, for there is no resident nobleman vfithin its bounds, nor has any nobleman a residence in it. There appears to be no other county in Ireland similarly circum- stanced. There remains to the writer the pleasant duty of acknow- ledging the assistance rendered by the numerous officials who, in their various departments, supplied much information which could not otherwise have been obtained. William Frazer, F.R.C.S.I., furnished the impressions from which the Sligo merchant tokens were engraved. Some of the illustrations are reproduced, by different pro- cesses, from photographs by J. J. Nelson; the wood engravings are by Alfred Oldham ; the coloured map at the end of the volume is reproduced by permission of George Philip & Son. Cleveragh, Sligo, December, 1891. CONTENTS. BOOK VII. CHAP. PAGE XTII. — MILITARY HISTORT OF THE COUNTY AND BOROUGH OF SLIGO, FROM 1688 TO THE PRESENT TIME, .... 1 XVm. — POLITICAL HISTORY OF THE COUNTY AND BOROUGH OF SLIGO, . 37 XIX. — PESTILENCE, FAMINE, EMIGRATION, AND POPULATION, . . 63 XX. — HISTORY OF THE BOROUGH OF SLIGO TO THE PRESENT TIME, 93 XXI. — CHURCHES, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, AND INSTITUTIONS OF SLIGO, 126 XXH. — ROADS, STREETS, AND COMMUNICATIONS, . . . .191 XXm. — PORT OP SLIGO, TRADE AND MANUFACTURE, . . .218 XXTV. — GEOLOGY, GENERAL FEATURES, CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE, FLORA AND FAUNA, 262 XXV. — MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, 311 XXVI. — SUPERSTITIONS, LEGENDS, ETC., 350 XXVU. — SPORT, RECREATION, EDUCATION, LANGUAGE, AND RELIGION, 387 APPE NDI X. A. — "TITULADOS" of THE COUNTY SLIGO, 421 B. — CLAIMS ALLOWED TO " SUFFEKING LOYALISTS" FOR LOSSES SUS- TAINED IN THE REBELLION OF 1798, 422 C. — NOMINAL ROLL OF OFFICERS OF THE COUNTY SLIGO REGIMENT FROM 1793, SHOWING THE RANK LAST HELD BY EACH, . . 425 D. — MEMBERS OF PARLIAMENT FOR THE COUNTY AND BOROUGH OF SLIGO, 427 E REPORT OF THE COMMITTEE FOR RELIEF OF THE DISTRESSED POOR OF THE TOWN OF SLIGO, 1822, 435 VIU CONTENTS. PACK F. — BiniGESSES OF THE BOROUGH OF SLIGO, FROM 1709 TO THE TASSING OF THE MUNICIPAL REFORM ACT, 1842, . . . 437 G. — TABULAR STATEMENTS SHOWING THE MANNER IN "WHICH THE LIABILITIES OF THE CORPORATION OF SLIGO WERE INCURRED, &C., &C., AND THE MEANS EMPLOYED FOR DISCHARGING SAME, BY EDAVARD CHISM, CORPORATION ACCOUNTANT, . . . 432 H. — DUES RECEIVED AT THE PORT OF SLIGO. NUMBER AND TONNAGE OF VESSELS ENTERING THE PORT OF SLIGO, .... 449 I. — EXTRACT FROM THE "FIELD NAME BOOKS " OF THE ORDNANCE SURVEY OF SUCH PORTION OF THE MS. AS RELATES TO SLIGO, GIVING THE ENGLISH ORTHOGRAPHY, IRISH NAME AND TRANS- LATION OF THE TOWNLANDS OF THE COUNTY, . . . 452 K. — RAINFALL IN THE COUNTY SLIGO, 485 L. — BIRDS MET WITH IN THE COUNTY SLIGO, 490 M HIGH SHERIFFS OF THE COUNTY SLIGO, 496 Index, 500 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VIEW OF PAET OF THE SOUTHERN PORTION OF THE TOWN OF SLIGO, Frontispiece. FIG. 1. — OFFICER IN UNIFORM OP SLIGO VOLUNTERRS, 1780, . Page 8 2, 3. — BUTTONS OF SLIGO VOLUNTEERS, 1782, . . ,,12 4. — ORNAMENT OF YEOMANRY, 1796, . . . . ,,12 5. — BUTTON OF YEOMANRY, . . . . . . ,,12 6, 7. — OBVERSE AND REVERSE OF MEDAL FOR THE SLIGO MILITIA, ,,14 8, 9. — OBVEKSE AND REVERSE OF MEDAL STRUCK BY THE CORPORATION OF LIMERICK, ,,22 10. — OBVERSE OF SLIGO SOUP TICKET, . . . . ,,65 11. — MAP SHOWING RELATIVE SIZE OF THE MUNICIPAL AND PARLIAMENTARY BOUNDARIES OF THE BOROUGH OF SLIGO, ,,116 12. — THE SLIGO MACE, ,,118 13. — GOLD CHAIN AND PENDANT PERTAINING TO THE MAYORALTY OF THE BOROUGH OF SLIGO, . . ,,120 14. — SEAL OF THE CORPORATION OF SLIGO OF 1709, . . ,, 120 15. — SEAL OF THE CORPORATION OF SLIGO, 1723, . . ,,121 16. — NEWSPAPER DEVICE, USED AS A SEAL IN THE CORPORA- TION BOOKS OF SLIGO, ,, 121 17. — NEWSPAPER DEVICE, USED AS A SEAL BY THE CORPORA- TION OF SLIGO, ,,122 18. — SMALL SEAL USED BY THE CORPORATION OF SLIGO, 1806-1810, „ 22 19. — SEAL AT PRESENT USED BY THE CORPORATION OF SLIGO, ,, 123 20. — FIRST SEAL OF THE TOWN AND HARBOUR COMMISSIONERS, ,, 124 21. — SEAL NOW IN Use by the harbour COMMISSIONERS, ,, 125 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Fig . 22. ,, 23. ,, 24. 5> 25. )) 26. >> 27. )> 28. >> 29. ,, 30. »> 31. >> 32.- )> 33,- )) 34. »> 35. )) 36. >> 37. 5) 38.- >> 39.- " 40.- 5) 41.- ,, 42.. )> 43.- >> 44.- >> 45.- >> 46.- ,, 47.- ?) 48.- ,, 49.- ,, 50.- 51.- — GENEEAl VIEW OF THE TOWN OF SLIGO, — ABBEY OF SLIGO, — THE FEIARY OF THE OEDEE OF ST. DOMINIC, SLIGO, — THE OATHEDEAX, SLIGO, — CALKY CHUKCH, AS SEEN FEOM THE RITEE, — THE TOWN HALL, SLIGO, — THE ASSIZE COUETS, SLIGO, .... — TOKEN STEUCK BY WALTEE LYNCH, 1666, . — TOKEN STRUCK BY JOHN SMITH, — TOKEN STEtrCK BY WILL. HTJNTEE, — TOKEN STEtrCK BY WILLIAM CEAFOED, — TOKEN STEUCK BY AECHIBOLD CUNINGHAM, — "MONEY OF NECESSITY," — PLAN OF THE STOEAGE EESEEVOIE, ... — BEAENAS, OE GAP OF LOUGH TALT, AS SEEN FEOM THE CBANNOG, — SLIDE CAE, STILL OCCASIONALLY USED FOE DRAWING WEIGHTS OVEE SOFT GEOUND, — CAET WITH SOLID WHEELS ; THE OEIGIN OF THE OUT SIDE CAK, — COAST LINE OF SLIGO BAY AS VIEWED FEOM THE SEA, — EEPEESENTATION OF A SHIP FEOM THE BOOK OF BALLY- MOTE, —OLD LOOM STILL IN USE, —GOLD-CUPPED FIBDLA, — FEAGMENT OF A PENANNULAE OBJECT FOUND IN A CUTTING ON THE SLIGO, ENNISKTLLEN, AND N.C.E., — LOWEE FALLS, BALLYSADAKE, —COMMENCEMENT OF THE ETVEE GAEVOGUE, AND LOWEE POETION OF LOUGH GILL, — THE OLD "BLACK LION " INN, . — EUSH-LIGHT HOLDEB, —ANCIENT THEEE-LEGGED AEM CHAIE, . — FOUE-HANDLED MADDEE, . — " THE WELL OF ASSISTANCE," . — CLOCHA-BREACHA, AND CUESING STONES, >ag e 126 >) 128 )) 130 >» 132 ,, 138 j> 152 )> 156 )) 172 )) 172 It 172 ,, 172 j> 172 »> 172 " 186 " 197 >) 206 >> 207 M 220 >> 222 >> 244 5) 247 >y 248 " 258 J> 272 >> 338 M 344 )> 345 >> 345 ,, 355 361 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XI Fic. 52 ,, 53 „ 54, „ 55 ,, 56 58 59 60 61 62 63 64. 65. 66. 67. 68. 69. , — CURSING STOKES, &C., ISLAND OF INISMURRAT, . — STRAINING STONE, &C., KLLLERY, — ALTAR SLAB, TOOMOTJR, — ALTAR AND STONES, TOOMOUR, .... — ALTAR AND STONES, TOBERARAGHT, CLOGHER, — RUDE REPRESENTATION OF THE CRUCIFIXION, TOBER- ARAGHT, — SPECIMENS OF CROSSES, CO. SLIGO, — CROSS AT KILTURRA, — RAUGHLET CUP, THE LADIEs' CUP, THE RIFLES' CUP, ROSSES POINT CUP, — "THE PIPER OP SLIGO," — HEADING OF "THE SLIGO JOURNAL," NO. 705, VOL. VII. — SEAL OF MASONIC LODGE, — SWEAT HOUSE, INISMURRAT, .... —INTERIOR OF THE ABBEY OF BANADA, LOOKING WEST, — ABBEY OF COURT, AS SEEN FROM THE SOUTH-WEST, — KNIGHT IN FULL ARMOUR, SIXTEENTH CENTURY, SIZE OF STONE ABOUT 16 INCHES BY 12 INCHES, . — DAGGER BLADE OR SPEAR- HEAD OF BRONZE FOUND IN THE COUNTY SLIGO (HALF REAL SIZE), —COLOURED MAP OF THE COUNTT, Page 362 )) 364 )» 365 )> 366 >> 366 )) 367 J) 370 »» 371 J J 391 )> 398 >> 404 )) 406 )» 411 end. BOOK VII. CHAPTERS XVIL-XXYIL CHAP. XVII. MILITARY HISTOEY OF THE COUNTY AND BOROUGH OF SLIGO, FROM 1688 TO THE PRESENT TIME. XVIII. POLITICAL HISTORY OF THE COUNTY AND BOROUGH OF SLIGO. XIX. PESTILENCE, FAMINE, EMIGRATION, AND POPULATION. XX. HISTORY OF THE BOROUGH OF SLIGO TO THE PRESENT TIME. XXI. CHURCHES, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, AND INSTITUTIONS OF SLIGO. XXII. ROADS, STREETS, AND COMMUNICATIONS. XXIII. PORT OF SLIGO, TRADE AND MANUFACTURE. XXIV. GEOLOGY, GENERAL FEATURES, CLIMATE, AGRICULTURE, FLORA AND FAUNA. XXV. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. XXVI. SUPERSTITIONS, LEGENDS, Etc. XXVII. SPORT, RECREATION, EDUCATION, LANGUAGE, AND RELIGION. HISTOEY OF SLIGO. BOOK YI I. CHAPTER XVII. MILITARY HISTORY OF THE COUNTY AND BOROUGH OF SLIGO FROM 1688 TO THE PRESENT TIME. HE effects of the internecine strife which had lasted from 1688 to 1691 were visible all over the County of Sligo ; fields lay uncultivated and waste ; numbers of horses had died, or been worn out as troop or baggage animals, and cattle were scarce ; wherever the desolation of war had spread, the houses of the gentry and the cottages of the poor were in ruins. The unfortunate inhabitants who had joined neither of the rival parties under arms had to contribute to the support, now of the one side, now of the other, according as the fortunes of the contest fluctuated, and those who had fled were subjected to confiscation of their goods by the adherents of James. Alexander Irwin of Tanrego — nicknamed " The Fox"' — was compelled to leave his wife and family in Sligo, ' This sobriquet of "The Fox" may perhaps throw light on the Latin inscription over the entrance of the old house of Longford {vide ante, Book L p. 116), to the effect that it was " the safe retreat of .John Henry (Crofton) and his yellow-haired Fox"; and as the Croftons and the Irwins resided in close neighbourhood, what more likely than that the Crofton above alluded to had married a Miss Irwin. The following statement of the doctrine of image- worship may be observed in the quaint little chapel, situated in the grounds of Longford, B H 2 HISTORY OF SLIGO. but when trying to make their escape from the County they were captured by Sir Teigue O'Regan, who observed, " Though the Fox has escaped I have got the cubs." Mrs. Irwin was detained prisoner in a fort at Strandhill, where she found herself obliged to part with everything belonging to her, even to her wedding ring, in order to procure bread for her children. At the close of the struggle many Protestants found themselves ruined ; their money became exhausted from the pressure on their own resources whilst the war was being carried on. Each side seemed to understand perfectly the art of carrying on the struggle, if possible, at the cost of their adversaries, and the annexed correspondence will be found amusing from the statement of the mode in which repayment was made : — " The peticon of Capt° Hugh M'Dermott To the Rt Honno'^'^ Coll. Patt. Sarsfield Command' in Chefe of his mat' fforces in Connought, and to y' Honno^'" Coll. Henry Dillon, L^ Leut. of the County of Sligo. " Sheweth that yo' petio' uppon yo'" Honno" encourdagm* and pmise of reimburssinge yo"" petio' did subsist his company for five weekes in the Garizon of Sligo, and bought for y^ s** Company sixty eight coates, sixty eight hatts, sixty eight paire of shooes, and sixty eight paire of stokens, that yo"^ petio' to serve his mat'* and please yo' Honno" was fforced to borrow from severall psons ye most p' of ye monys layd out by him for ye uses affors** and is duly duned for y* s** mony to yo' petio" great discredit and disaduantage if not soone reluied by yo"" Honnor'. "May it therefore please yo' Honnor' tenderly to consider y* pmisses and yo' one ffaithfull pmisse to ord' some course whereby yo' petio' may be reimburssed and payd of his mony, w'''' amounts to one hundred and three pounds str^ as by the accompt underneath more at lardge may appear — and yo' petio' shall ever pray, &"=. " Itt' ffiue weeks subsistance, Sixty eight coates, . Sixty eight paire of stokens, Sixty eight paire of pumps, Sixty eight hatts, . ' . already fully described: " Nam Deus est quod imago docet, sed non Deus ipsa, banc cernas sed mente colas quod cernis in ipsa"; which maybe translated : " For God is what the image teaches us, but the image itself is not God; you see the image, but you worship in your mind what you discern in it." . 55 00 00 . 32 12 4 . 3 8 00 . 3 8 00 . 8 14 00 MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 3 " To Capt° John Btjeke. " The contents of y^ above petition is recomended to y" by Coll. Sarsfield, who desires y" will out of y/ effects y° have in y^ hands of y' Kings satisfy y^ aboue sume to Cap'" Hugh M'Dennott. Dated at Bondrowes y= 20 of May (16)89. "Hex : Dillon. ** Dear Jack, be sure y" doe what y" can for y^ prince who was y** know at greate expense and youl obUdge y'' aflf. brot^" " Pursuant to Coll. Sarsfields orders I doe impower Capt" Hugh M'Dermott to disposse and make usse of the goods and Chattels of George Allcocke or other absentees goods in his custody by vertue of any former orders, to the value of the sume in the within Pett'°'. Datted this 22''' of May (16)89. " Jo : BUEKE. " (Endorsed) The humble peticon of Capt° Hugh M'Dermott." The MacDerraotts, theu and long subsequently, were one of the few families that kept up the appellation of an ancient Irish Chieftain. Young, in his Tour through Ireland in the latter portion of the 18th century, thus alludes to it : — "Another great family in Connaught is Mac Dermott, who calls himself ' Prince of Coolavin ' ; he lives at Coohivin in Sligo, and though he has not above £100 a year, will not admit his children to sit down in his presence. This was certainly the case with his father, and some assured me, even with the present Chief, Lord Kingsborough, Mr. Ponsonby, Mr. O'Hara, Mr. Sandf ord, &'', came to see him, and his address was curious : * O'Hara, you are welcome ; Sandford I am glad to see your mother's son (his mother was an O'Brian) ; as to the rest of ye, come in as you can ! " The sufferers through injuries inflicted loj the three years of constant strife sought compensation from Parliament, but sought in vain ; ten thousand pounds was voted, but never given, nor indeed could a sum so small have been of any real service, so numerous were the applicants. The incessant strife had so accustomed the people to an unsettled state of life that they were unwillii)g to resume steady pursuits of any kind. Accustomed to obtain all the necessaries of life by plunder and violence, the majority of the B2 4 HISTORY OF SLIGO. peasantry neglected the culture of the soil, while some took to open robbery and gave themselves up to a system of predatory warfare,' and as nearly all the Protestant yeomen had been either in the militia or regular army, military life had inspired a distaste for the occupations in which they had formerly engaged ; they were unwilling to work, and inclined to depend more on the aid expected from Parliament than on their own exertions. Some kind of local military organization must have existed in Sligo prior to the Eevolution of 1688, otherwise it would be difficult to account for the celerity with which the Protestants of the county had been concentrated, armed, and disciplined. These men were in great part descendants of members of Colonel Richard Coote's Regiment of Horse, Colonel Sir Charles Coote's Regiment of Horse, and his Regiment of Foot. Numerous statements with regard to these regiments are to be found amongst the public records, but one entry relating to Comet Cooper will suffice. It recites that " the Claym' purchased y* Debentures hereafter mentioned from y^ persones hereunder, and after named, whose Lotts fell in y® county of Sligoe, in Coll. Coote's owne Regim* and Troope"; he also purchased lots in Sir Charles Coote's Reg*^. Sir Oliver St. George's Troope " as well as in Sir Charles Coote's Regm* of ffoote." The various detachments from the above-named corps appear to have been stationed in Sligo until lands were allotted to them, and they exchanged the sword for the ploughshare. In the column of remarks in "the Book of Survey and Distribution " several denominations of land are annoted " Trustees for y^ Barracks." " Sir Richard Coote's Regiment of Horse (now y^ L''. Collooney's Regt.") From this entry^ it would appear that the Regiment, although disbanded, was liable to be called up ^ These vagrant robbers were designated Rapparees, an Irish word stated to have signified a pole or broken beam, resembling a half -pike — the weapon with which the majority of these brigands were armed. ^ Here is another entry of like nature: "Quarter Master E. J. Byrne Q,^ M. to Maior John Kings troope (nowe L**. of Kingston) in the now L"*. Collooney's Reg*." MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. O for service, for it was disembodied about 1655, and Coote was not created Baron Collooney until September, 1660. Richard, eldest son of the 1st Baron, espoused the cause of William III. In 1689 he was appointed Treasurer and Receiver Greneral to Queen Mary, and was created Earl of Bellamont. In the year following he was made Grovernor of New England and New Tork, and also Admiral of those seas, where he captured the notorious pirate, Captain William Kidd. In 1701 he died in America, and was succeeded in the title by his son Nansan, who died in 1708, and was succeeded by his brother Richard. In the year 1800, on the death of Charles Coote, without issue male, the title became extinct. The following is the muster roll of the officers of Col. Sir Richard Coote's Regiment of Horse : — Major John King (now L"* of Kingston) ; Q.M. E. J. Byrne. Sir Richard Cootes own troop : Cornet Edward Cooper ; Q.M. C. Cartwright. Captain Robert Morgan : CornetThomas "Wood ; Q,. M. Henry "Beven. Captain Francis King : L' James King ; Comet Edmond Nicholson ; Q. M. Thomas Harloe or Harle. Captain Thomas Hart : L' Michael Pockeredge. Captain Robert OUver : L' Pockeredge ; Comet Henry Hughes. Captain Lewis Jones : Cornet John Thometon ; Q. M. Nicholas Goulding. " Ingeneere " "William Webb. Surgeon and Ensign John Nicholson. Surgeon's mate : Henry Nicholson. Henry Nicholson was " chirurgeon " not only to this Regi- ment but also to Sir Charles Coote's Regiment of Horse and Sir William Cole's Regiment of Foot. Henry Nicholson is also described in a contemporaneous document " as administrator to his brother, William Nicholson ; as chirurgeon's-mate to Coll. Richard Coote's Regiment of Horse and as Trooper in Capt. Francis King's troope": — Col. Sir Charles Cootes Regiment ; (Earl of Mountrath.) Sir Charles Cootes own troop : Capt "William Ormsby, Capt Lt. Captain John Ormbsy : L'. Thomas Ormsby ; Cornet Philip Ormsby; Q,. M. Anthony Ormsby. b HISTORY OE SLIGO. Captain Charles Ormsby : Cornet George Ormsby. Surgeon and Ensign John Nicholson ; Cornet Edmond Nicholson. Col. Sir Charles Coote's Eegiment of Foot (now y* Earl of Mountrath). Captain Robert Parke ; Ensign David Linehian Captain Charles Colles ; L'. Markey. This list of officers can be further extended by reference to the " Book of Survey and Distribution," as well as to the census made cuxa 1659, probably by Dr. W. Petty, and which is one of the few documents extant in which the designation of " Titulado " occurs. By the term " Titulado " is supposed to be meant a person claiming to be entitled to land, but whose claim not having been yet decided on was thereby rendered titular in point of fact.^ {See Appendix A.) From the commencement of the Revolution of 1688 until the surrender of Sligo by Sir Teigue 0' Regan in 1691, there could have been no body of local militia stationed within the County, as every male capable of bearing arms was either engaged in the ranks of the Enniskilleners or supporting the cause of James II. It seems evident, however, that a local force for Sligo has existed, it may be said, almost from the first settlement of the County. This force was embodied in 1715 and again in 1745 ; in May, 1747, the following notice occurs in a newspaper of the day : — "We hear from Sligoe, that the agreeable news of Admiral Anson's success against the French occasioned the greatest rejoicing that was ever known in that town ; the Gentlemen assembled under arms and marched from the Parade to the Quay, where after filing three vollies with the greatest exactness (as it was a marine stroke), they repaired on board the vessels there, when they di*ank the King, with all the loyal toasts, the brave Anson and Warren, and many more suitable to the occasion. The night ended with bonfires, illuminations, and other demonstrations of the greatest joy, and the next night the Gentlemen of the town entertained the Ladies with a ball at the ' Such is the opinion of John P. Prendergast, the author of The Crom- wellian Settlement of Ireland, and of J. J. Digges-Latouche, the Deputy Keeper of the Kecords. MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. / Town House, wliere the well-affected fair ones assembled by beat of drum, and shewed a spirit no way short of their sister Whiggs in the year 1715, described by the great Mr. 4ddison." In September of the same year a letter from Sligo describes an engagement off the coast in which three English merchant- men beat off a Spanish privateer. In a private account book (1755) belonging to a gentleman of the County, there stands the following entry : " May 1. To y^ Militia boys to buy powder 2s. 2(1." The Militia were assembled in 1759, in 1760, 1761, 1762, and 1763. Mention is made of them again from 1778 to 1783 ; during this latter period, however, the Irish Volunteers were also in existence, and it is difficult to distinguish whether the casual allusions met with really bear reference to the Volunteers or the Militia. According to a map of the year 1766 there were four military barracks in the town of Sligo : " The old stone fort " or "Foot Barracks and yard"; the present barracks, then styled the"Strand Barracks" for cavalry and capable of accommodating " 7 officers and 96 non-commissioned officers and privates, with stabling for 60 horses, and an excellent hospital annexed" ; the *' Middle Barracks " on the right side of Holborn- street, and the " Horse Barracks " which appear to have occupied the site of the present brewery near the upper bridge. Small detach- ments of troops were also stationed at Collooney, Ballymote, and Kilmacteige. The latter barracks were given up as early as 1736. At a critical epoch, when America was lost to the Crown of England, and the Irish coasts lay open to the descent of a foreign foe, the Volunteers, a body of 100,000 men, self-clothed, self-disciplined, and without pay discharged the duties of the army. Unfortunately they afterwards turned their attention to politics, upon which rock they made shipwreck. At first — from the octogenarian to the schoolboy — all sprang to arms, several cadet corps being formed from the various schools in the town and county. Amongst the facetiae of the day, it is narrated that at a meeting convened by public notice it was agreed to form a 8 HISTORY OF SLIGO. Volunteer corps, but a proviso was added that it should not be compelled to quit the kingdom. A wag in the crowd sugges- tively adding : '* except in case of invasion ! " " The Sligo Volunteers " were commanded by Mr. Wynne. The Eight Hon. Henry King was one of the twelve "Generals " elected by the Volunteers, and was one of the delegates who met at Dungannon, 15th February, 1782. He also raised and commanded " The Ballina and Ardnaree Loyal Volunteers," associated (^. e. raised) 1st July, 1779. " The Liney Volunteers " were associated in 1778 ; their uniform was scarlet faced with blue. They were commanded by Major George Dodwell. Lt- Col. Ormsby was in command of the " Sligo Loyal Volunteers " raised May 25th, 1779, the uniform scarlet, faced white. Provincial reviews were held by the Volunteers, the various corps being fully provided with all necessary camp equipment. One of the largest of these reviews was held near Sligo in 1781, and the order in which the various corps were drawn up is here given. The details of the manoeuvres — which occupy sixteen pages of the pamphlet' — are omitted, but some items are curious; for instance, officers still carried "fusils," and when saluting the inspecting general, "the officers wearing hats (except those on horseback) will take off their hats; the cap- officers will put their hands to their caps." "The cavalry to be formed into one squadron; the infantry into two regiments ; the whole forming one brigade. The several corps to take post according to seniority ; the eldest corps on the right of the first regiment ; the second corps on the right of the second regi- ment ; the third corps on the left of the first regiment ; the fourth corps on the left of the second regiment ; and so on until the whole is formed. The Grenadiers and light infantry of the eldest corps to be posted to the first regiment ; the Grenadiers and light infantry of the other corps to the second regiment. The colours of the two corps nearest the centre of each regiment to be used ; the other corps who have colours will cany them to the field. The eldest Colonel will command the brigade as Brigadier-General ; the eldest Lieutenant- Colonel and Major of each regiment to act in their stations to the *Plan of a review to be held near Sligo on Thursday, the 19th July next, 1781. [To face page 8. Fir. 1. — OriitKii ix Unifokm oi' the Si.ioo Volvnteeus, 1780. MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. if regiments they belong to ; the acting Major of each regiment to be mounted ; the Lieutenant-Colonel on foot. The line to be drawn up two deep ; the cavalry 15 paces to the right of the first regiment ; the second regiment 15 paces to the left of the first. Each regiment to be divided into 8 battalion sub -divisions, 4 grand divisions, and 2 wings. In the firings and manoeuvres the regiments will act independently. The sub-divisions will be numbered, beginning with the right and ending with the left of regiments. The Captains and subalterns 4 paces in front of the fi'ont rank ; field officers on foot 3 paces in front of the Captains and subalterns ; the Majors on horseback on the right of their respective regiments, dressing with the front rank of Grenadiers, and will march at their head in passing the General. No drums to beat but those belonging to the regiment the General is immediately passing, except in the general salute, when the whole beat off together. The Brigadier-General will appoint an adjutant to receive his orders, and act under him." The manoeuvres, which were of a most intricate character, comprised the attack on a bridge and the passage of a river by the brigade. There was again a review in August, 1782, and another took place in 1785. Volunteering was also carried on for the navy. There was great jealousy entertained by the regular troops towards the Volunteers. " The former affected to view their unpaid comrades in the same light the merchant does the contrabandist, as unlicensed dealers in arms ; jealousy and envy of their equipments and personal appearance might have been probably material sources of this bad feeling, as the Volunteers were splendidly appointed, and formed undoubtedly a considerable portion of the elite of Irishmen." The following were the Delegates from the County Sligo who composed part of the National Convention of the Volun- teers : — General the Rt. Hon. Henry King, Rt. Hon. Joshua Cooper, Colonel O'Hara, Robert Lyons, Esq., Major Greorge Dodwell. A few resolutions passed by the various Sligo Volunteer corps are added as specimens of the manner in which political agitation was carried on at the close of the 18th century. 10 HISTORY OF SLIGO, *' Loyal Sligo Volunteees. " On parade assembled the 4tli of March, 1782, unanimously came to the following Kesolution : — "That, as citizens and soldiers, we do heartily approve of the Dungannon address to the minority of both houses of parliament, and do most cheerfully adopt these resolutions of the 15th of February last, for obtaining a redi-essof grievances, and that we will to the utmost of our power, co-operate with them and the several volunteer corps of this Kingdom for so desirable a purpose. ' ' John Okmsbt, Lieut. Col. " Ordered that the above resolutions be published in the Dublin JEvening Post, and Sligo Journal.''^ On the 15tli March, 1782, a deputation of Volunteer OflBcers from the County Sligo {i.e.. Colonel Charles O'Hara, Colonel Sir B. Gore Bt., Colonel Lewis F. Irwin, Lt. -Colonel John Orrasby), attended the great meeting of Connaught Volunteers at Ballinasloe, at which were assembled delegates from fifty- nine volunteer corps of the province. " SiiGO Meeting, *' At a Meeting of the Gentlemen Freeholders of the County of Sligo, convened by the High Sheriff, April, 1, 1782, " George Dodwell, Esq., High Sheriff, in the Chair, "The following Resolutions were unanimously agreed to : — " 1st. — That the resolutions entered into by the Delegates assembled at Dungannon and Ballinasloe, by the Volunteer associations, and since approved of by the diiferent meetings of several other corps and Counties of this Kingdom, are such as ought to be adopted by every friend to the just rights, privileges, liberties, and commerce of Ireland. " 2nd. — That we will support, with our lives and fortunes, all the just rights and privileges of this Kingdom, and that we will use our utmost endeavours to promote peace, harmony, and good order in this country, and that we will co-operate with all the other counties in this Kingdom in any measures that may tend to the accomplishing so salutary an end. " 3rd. — That the thanks of this meeting be given to the different Delegates from the Volunteer Corps of tliis county who attended the meeting at Ballinasloe on the 15th of March last. MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 11 " 4th. — That these resolutions, unanimously approved of, be published three times in the Dublin Evening Post and Sligo Journal. " 5th. — That the thanks of this meeting be given to the High Sheriff for his cheerful compliance with our request, in convening the County, and for his polite and candid conduct in the chair. " George Don well, Sheriff.''''^ Yery similar resolutions were passed at a meeting of " The Ballina and Ardnaree Volunteers," held 28th March, Lt. Robert Jones in the chair ; likewise at a meeting of " The first Tyreril True Blues," held at Collooney, April 1, 1782, the Rev. John Little in the chair, to which the following was added : — " The chief wish of our hearts is to clasp our sister nation to our bosom and cement an indissoluble union between us, attached to her by every tie of affection and interest that can unite nations ; surrounded as she is by an host of enemies we are resolved to share her liberty and share her fate." Owing, however, to the conduct of the affairs of the Volunteers throughout the king- dom having fallen unto revolutionary hands, their old leaders abandoned them. To prevent disturbances, and with the approbation of most of the supporters of the constitution of 1782, the regular army was largely increased, and the militia embodied. The Govern- ment finally ordered that all meetings of the Volunteers should be, if necessary, dispersed by force. Prior to the year 1790, Protestants and Roman Catholics in Sligo lived on very good terms. Colonel Irwin in his examina- tion before the Committee of the House of Commons on the state of Ireland said : — "I was very much thrown into the society of Roman Catholics. My father when he was in the Prussian Service acquired a facility of speaking Latin. He was a very good linguist, and it was a great gratification to him to get anyone that could speak Latin and foreign languages, and he used to have the priests, who from their foreign education possessed that facility, constantly resorting to his house. Under these circumstances, even though a boy, I was not without observation, I can say that during that time there was a much greater ' History of Volunteering , 1782, C. H. Wilson. 12 HISTORY OF SLIGO. cordiality, much greater intercourse and familiarity between the two sects than exists at this time. The first tone that was given to Protestant feeling adverse to the Catholics was in the year 1793 at the time of the Defenders." In the spring of 1794, Sligo was much disturbed by the "Defenders" — a secret society amongst the Roman Catholics, which spread throughout the County with astonishing rapidity — and at the assizes many were convicted of robbing houses of arms and of administering unlawful oaths. In consequence of these outrages the Earl of Carhampton — by instructions from Government — visited Sligo for the purpose of restoring social order ; the execution of the laws being there impeded by a system of terror. In most places visited by him he found that a leader of disturbance, who assumed the feigned name of Captain Stout, had so greatly intimidated the people of the neighbourhood, that persons who had sustained injury were afraid to prosecute, and magistrates were deterred from en- forcing justice. Some informers had been murdered, and others dreading the same fate forfeited their recognizances in order to avoid giving evidence. An active and intelligent magistrate of the County stated that the priest of a certain parish in Sligo had advised him to remain a passive spectator of these outrages, as otherwise he would be murdered ; and much the same information was given by Mr. Perceval of Templehouse. Lord Carhampton found that in the counties which he visited the laws were inoperative, and that they did not afford protection to loyal and peaceable subjects, who in most places were obliged to fly from their habitations ; he consequently resolved to restore order by decisive measures, and in the following year the loyal inhabitants and the Grand Jury of Sligo thanked Lord Carhampton for his wise and salutary exertions. In the autumn of 1796 Government proposed that — in addition to the Militia — all loyal subjects should embody themselves into corps similar to those already formed in England, and subject to the control of the proper authorities ; \_To face page 12. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. Fig. 5. Figs, 2, 3. — Buttons of Sligo Volunteers, 1782. Fig. 4. — Ornament of Yeomanry, 1796. Fig. 5. — Button of Yeomanry. [Figs. 2, 3, 5, fuU size ; Fig. 4, half size.] MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 13 sucli was the origin of the yeomanry ; hut in order to avoid the emharrassments which had arisen under the old Volunteer system, in which the men elected their own officers, the new yeomanry were commissioned hy the Crown. The mania for military service seized upon all ranks and classes amongst the Protestant population ; in some rare instances clergymen so far forgot their position as to accept commissions in the yeomanry, but as was well remarked by a contemporaneous writer " a clergyman, alternately arrayed in the surplice of a parson and the uniform of an officer, may very innocently transpose his spiritual and temporal functions, become pastoral in the field and pugnacious in the pulpit." The yeomanry, however, which consisted almost entirely of Protestants, wrung from a reluctant witness the admission that during the subsequent rebellion of 1798 they distinguished themselves " by steadiness, bravery, and perseverance." These bodies of armed men, varying in number and military organi- zation, were styled "District Cor[)s," and as regards the County Sligo the following is a complete list of the officers of the three infantry and four cavalry corps first raised : — Ballymote Infantey : — Rank. Name. Date of Commission. Captain, . . James Bridgeham, . 31st Oct. 1796 1st Lieutenant, . Richard Gethin, . ,, ,, 2nd Lieutenant, . James Motherwell, , ,, ,, Cakbeery Cataley : — ^ Captain, . . Owen "Wynne, . . 31st Oct. 1796 1st Lieutenant, . Andrew Parke, . . ,, ,, 2nd Lieutenant, . Robert Manley, . . ,, ,, COHKAN, LnSTEY, AND CoOLAVIN CavALEY : — Captain, . . Charles O'Hara, . . 31st Oct. 1796 1st Lieutenant, . Harloe Knott, . . ,, ,, 2nd Lieutenant, . Owen Phibbs, . . jj j> 1 The command of a corps of yeomanry appears to have entailed some considerable expense, if the following extract from llie Sligo Journal be an example of the usual custom of the day: "On Tuesday last (18th July, 1797), the troop of Carber)' Cavalry were most elegantly entertained at dinner by their esteemed commander at Hazelwood." 14 HISTORY OF SLIGO. Dkttmcliff and Cauleey Cavalry : — Rank. Name. Date of Commission. Captain, . . Arthur Irwin, . . Slst Oct, 1796 1st Lieutenant, . William O'Beme, . ,, ,, 2nd Lieutenant, . Samuel Shaw, . . ,, ,, Sligo Loyal Infa.ntry : — Captain, . . Thomas Soden, . . 31st Oct. 1796 1st Lieutenant, . Abraham Martin, . ,, ,, 2nd Lieutenant, . Laurence Yernon, . ,, ,, Tlrekagh Infantry : — Captain, . . James "Wood, . . 31st Oct. 1796 1st Lieutenant, . Eichard Wood, . . ,, ,, 2nd Lieutenant, . William Hamilton, . ,, ,, TiEEERiL Cavalry : — Captain, . . Nicholas Ormsby, . 31st Oct. 1796 1st Lieutenant, . John Workman, . . ,, ,, 2nd Lieutenant, . Roger Dodd, . . ,, ,, The following year another corps raised was styled — The Cottnty Sligo Light Infantry : — Captain, . . James Croften, . . 2nd Feb. 1797 1st Lieutenant, . Jeremiah Fury, . . ,, ,, 2nd Lieutenant, , Thomas Farrell, . ,, ,, On the 1st April, Roger Dodwell, was Gazetted first lieutenant, vice Fury, resigned, and on 20th June, Owen Wynne was appointed " First Captain " of " The Sligo Loyal Infantry." A letter, dated Jan. 2nd, states that " the inhahi- tants of Sligo had formed themselves into a military association to replace the regulars, should their absence be found necessary, and to act in any other manner that might be deemed expedient." During the spring of 1798 the Sligo Militia, then designated the 22nd Light Infantry, were quartered in the South of Ireland, and in June, distinguished themselves in the engage- ment at Vinegar Hill, County Wexford, forming portion of the first line which carried the position at the point of the bayonet, having many men killed and wounded, and three officers dis- [To face page 14. FiK. 6. Fig. 7. Figs. 6 and 7. — Obverse and Reverse of Medal for the Sligo Militia, Issued by the Right Hon. Colonel King. [Full size.] MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 15 abled; the regiment was favourably mentioned in the General's despatches as follows : — " To the determined spirit with which these columns were con- ducted, and the great gallantry of the troops, we are indebted for the short resistance of the rebels, who maintained their ground obstinately for about one hoiu' and a-half, but on perceiving the danger of being surrounded they fled with great precipitation. Their loss is not yet ascertained, but it must be very considerable ; the loss on our part is not great, the particulars of which I shall report as soon as possible. In the meantime I am sorry to say that Lt. Sandys of the Longford Regiment is killed, and that Colonel King of the Sligo was wounded in gallantly leading his Regiment."^ " While Vinegar Hill, which formed a very strong outpost to the town of Wexford, was attacked and carried by advanced columns of the army, another strong detachment, under the command of Brigadier- General Moore (of which it is stated some Sligo yeomanry corps formed a portion) penetrated on another side, and enclosing the rebels, who attempted to make their escape, pushed as far as Wexford and took post in a situation which commanded the town." One of the officers present with the Sligo Regiment at Vinegar Hill used to recount the circumstances attending his debut into military life, which occurred shortly before that event. A sergeant, entering the school-room in Sligo, where he was attending at his lessons, saluted and notified the adjutant's request that the youthful ensign should forthwith join his regiment. The schoolboy thereupon flinging his books at the head of his pedagogue, rushed out of the class-room, cheering for the army. It was probably for the action of Yinegar Hill that the medal of which Figs. 6 and 7 are full-size representations was engraved. Ohcerse. — A harp with crown, above in the rim, Sligo; under;ieath, Militia. Reverse. — The legend By the Right Honorable Colonel King, and in the centre, on a ribbon, Reward or Merit. Trade in general, owing to the disturbed state of Society, was greatly depressed in Sligo: for instance, Henry Hart, of Market- street, Sligo, in an advertisement in llie Sliyo Journal, after enumerating all his wares, states that he would dispose of them ^ Letter from General Lake to Lord Castlereatih. 16 HISTORY OF SLIGO. *' on the lowest terms for ready money only. He is unavoidably obliged to decline delivering any article whatever without being first paid for, until public credit is in some degree restored. He earnestly entreats that those indebted to him will discharge their respective accounts as soon as possible." This state of affairs did not mend, for, " at a meeting of the magistrates and principal gentlemen of the County of Sligo oonvenedby public notice, T. Ormsby, Esq., High Sheriff, in the chair, it was Resolved — That we view with the utmost abhor- rence the savage outrages that have disgraced most of the Northern Counties, and some other parts of the kingdom, and are truly sorry to find that proceedings, similar thereto are creeping into this hitherto peaceable county." The gentlemen and landholders of Sligo had prided them- selves on the peaceable demeanour and respect for the laws which the people continued to evince, when most other parts of the kingdom were disturbed by the " United Irishmen"; the mass of the people, however, were universally infected with their doctrines, although they had not yet broken out into acts of open outrage. In the beginning of 1798, a number of fugitive Roman Catholic families from the North of Ireland arrived in Sligo seeking protection, as they alleged, and from their appear- ance of decency and industry, and their knowledge of the linen manufacture, they readily obtained an asylum from the gentlemen of the county. Many of these families spread themselves over the country, particularly near the sea-coast, and for some time they demeaned themselves in a peaceable and industrious manner. They brought with them, however, a number of prophecies (which they asserted had been delivered by the ancient Irish bards) foretelling the wars and calamities which were shortly to take place in the country. These prophecies had a great effect on the minds of the lower class of people, who were persuaded that the events predicted must necessarily come to pass. In point of fact, these northern families owed their expulsion from Ulster entirely to their violent political opinion and acts, and on the landing of the French they pressed forward to receive arms and ammunition from their new allies, chose leaders among MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 17 themselves, and plundered and desolated the houses and property of their Protestant friends. It is remarkable that these men, holding in low estimation the courage and abilities of the Conuaught rebels, refused to serve in their ranks, but formed a separate corps that kept together during the rebellion. The peasantry of the County of Sligo — at least those of the Roman Catholic religion — although secretly organized and sworn to assist the French on their lauding, yet, had not that event taken place, it was generally thought they would not have risen in rebellion. The gentry and men of property, with few excep- tious, were Protestants of the Church of England, consequently loyal and strongly attached to the established government : to these were added respectable farmers (mostly freeholders), all of whom were tolerably expert in the use of arms, being generally enrolled in the nearest corps of volunteers or yeomanry. These two bodies, united by common interest, and roused by the dangers which surrounded them, would have sufficed to overawe and restrain an unarmed rabble ; the landing, liowever, of about one thousand French achieved, almost instantly, what the " United Irishmen " could never have effected. Another circumstance that contributed to promote the cause of rebellion, and to connect its votaries by a bond more binding than the oath of the " United Irishmen," was the propagation, among tlie Boman Catholics, of the mysteries of the CarmeUfes. This was a religious Order said to have been originally instituted for the advancement of piety and morality, and its members were led to believe that an admission into the fraternity would ensure their eternal welfare ; this foundation being laid, it was not difficult afterwards to persuade them to pay a small sum of money for its attainment. Each member received a square piece of brown cloth, on which were inscribed the letters i.h.s. (Jesus Jwminum Salvator) ; this, being suspended round the neck with a string and lying on the shoulder next to the skin, was termed a scapular. The price of it, on initiation, was to the poorer class one shilling, and to those who could afford it, higher in pro- portion to their means. This distinguishing badge of the Order, having received the priest's benediction, was supposed capable of c 18 HISTORY OF SLIGO. preserving the disciple from outward dangers and injuries, and also from attacks of the ghostly enemy. The cloth of these scapulars, which was at first composed of ashestos, possessed the quality of resisting the effects of fire, and after having received the priest's benediction they were committed to the flames, when to the astonishment of the beholders they remained safe and entire; and having undergone this fiery ordeal, their seemingly supernatural preservation was ascribed to the blessing of the priest. In Sligo the parish priests, either convinced of the utility of this Order in promoting the cause of religion, or seeing that the sale of scapulars was profitable, procured a power to dispose of them. Bags filled with them were sent for sale to fairs and markets, and these scapulars soon became the sign by which those of the "true faith " were to know each other. At length, on the 22nd of August 1798, occurred the event so eagerly awaited by the Sligo rebels ; three French frigates appeared in the bay of Killala, County Mayo, and the landing took place. On the evening of the following day (August 23rd) the French men of war were in Sligo Bay. Precautions were at once taken to secure the town. Within a week six or seven English frigates and a cuttei-, with 1000 marines on board, were cruising in Sligo Bay ; the cutter put into Killala and cut out a brig and a sloop, which the French had left behind for store ships, containing a great quantity of arms, ammunition, and clothing. There was a smart engage- ment, and this cutter bore a heavy fire from the enemy ; the other French vessels were boarded, the crews taken prisoners, and the ships set on fire. On the night of the 3rd of September, Greneral Humbert, the commander of the French, sent off his baggage and cannon with some of his troops towards Sligo ; on their departure from Castlebar the French numbered about nine hundred men, with- out counting their Irish allies. From Swinford they proceeded towards Bellahy, halting about two miles from that village, to which they sent an advance guard : thence they proceeded towards Tubbercurry, and halted within two miles of it. MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 19 The " Corran-Liney and Coolavin cavalry," stationed there as a picket, under the command of Captain O'Hara, Member for tlie County, advanced to reconnoitre the enemy, and in a skirmish with tliem Lieutenant Knott was taken prisoner and his only son killed ; also Captain Russell, of the Prince of Wales' Fencibles, was captured by the French at Tubbercurry, and having been severely wounded died a few days after. Captain O'Hara sent intelligence to Colonel Yereker at Sligo that the French were advancing. Besides the rebels who had marched from Castlebar with the French, a considerable body of them were sent across the mountains (from Ballina to Tubbercurry) with eighty Protestant prisoners ; the distress for food, however, was so great that the latter were sent back under a rebel guard. From Tubbercurry the French proceeded to Collooney, and on their way the Irish pikemen plundered the house of Mr. Perceval of Templehouse, because he had been active against the " United Irishmen." Wlien the French reached the village of Collooney, distant about six miles from Sligo, the inliabitants of the latter town, were in the utmost consternation. Sligo contained property to the amount of at least £200,000 ; there were in its harbour several ships, and in its vicinity were twelve well-furnished bleach- yards. The small force of six- hundred effective men stationed there was ordered to evacuate it ; however. Colonel Vereker with a detachment of the city of Limerick Militia and a few yeomen, the whole not exceeding two hundred and eiglity-six men, with two curricle guns^, marched out, engaged the French and the rebels, giving them so severe a check, notwithstanding 1 Particulars are here given of the corps engaged in the battle of Collooney, as taken from The Sligo Journal of 14th Sept. : — '» About eleven in the morning, Colonel Vereker of the Limerick Militia marched hence against them with detachments of the following corps, viz., City Limerick Militia, 220 ; Essex Fencibles, 20 ; Loyal Sligo Infantry, 20 ; Ballymote Infantry, 10; DrumclifF Infantry, 16 — total, 286 : together with a troop of the 24th Light Dragoons, and detachments from the Tyrerill, Liney, and Drumcliif troops of Yeomen Cavalry, and only two curricle guns." C2 20 HISTORY OF SLIGO. their great superiority of numbers, as' to deter them from nearer approach to Sligo, and forced them to proceed towards Drumahaire. The French had with them about nine hundred men, two hundred and fifty deserters from the Longford and Kilkenny Militia, together with a numerous body of rebels. Colonel Vereker's right was covered by a rising ground, upon which he posted a few men ; on his left was the river. His men on the hill were outflanked and forced in, and his rear was attacked, whereupon he was compelled to retreat over the river. The action began at half-past two, and lasted an hour and thirty-eight minutes. Of the French twenty-eight were killed and a great many wounded. After the action the French grenadiers represented to Greneral Humbert that the rebels would not support them, and were deserting in great numbers. The following is Colonel Vereker's description of the fight : — " About nine o'clock that morning (5th September), Captain O'Hara, of the Liney Yeomen Cavalry, who commanded my advanced regiment at Tubbercurry, reported to me he had been drove back by the advanced guard of the enemy, after a smart skirmish, in which he had one man killed and one wounded. Shortly after I learned that a division of the French army had arrived at CoUooney, with an inten- tion, as I conceived, of attacking this town (Sligo) and as I judged it more advisable to attack them than to wait to be attacked, I marched out with two hundred and fifty of the Limerick City Militia, two cur- ricle guns, twenty of the Essex Fencibles, thirty Yeomen Infantry, and a troop of the Twenty-fourth Light Dragoons. On coming near Collooney I found the enemy at the side of the town, ready to receive me. I accordingly ordered Major Ormsby, with one-hundred men,' to occupy a hill, which covered my right, my left being protected by a river. I then moved in close to the enemy, and a very severe action com- menced, which lasted near an hour-and-a-half. At length the very superior numbers of the enemy enabled them to outflank the division on my right, and oblige them to fall back ; and then perceiving the enemy making a disposition to surround me, and my ammunition being nearly expended, a retreat became absolutely necessary. From the unfortunate circumstance of one of the artillery horses being shot wlien putting to, which created much confusion, we were obUged to leave our guns behind; however, as the ammunition waggon and all MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 21 the harness were brought off, they were rendered useless to the enemy, as appears by their not taking them with them. Our loss in this action, considering we had the whole of the French and Rebel army to contend with, was less than might have been expected, there having been only one officer and six rank and file killed, and five officers and twenty-two rank and file wounded ; the loss on the side of the French, by their own account, was about twenty killed and about thirty wounded ; fourteen very badly, were brought in here, four of whom have since died in the hospital. There must liave been also a number of rebels killed and wounded, which we could not ascertain. I have great pleasure in expressing my entire approbation of the conduct of the officers and soldiers on this occasion ; to Lieutenant- Colonel Gough I have to return my warmest thanks for the very great zeal and spirit displayed by him ; to Major Ormsby, my thanks are justly due; as also to Captain Waller, of the Limerick Militia, who with his light company was extremely active. I have likewise to express my obligations to Captain Slicer, of the Koyal Irish Artillery, for his conduct in the action, and his great exertions, under very heavy fire to bring off his guns, as well as to Captain Whistler of the Twenty-fourth Light Dragoons, who with great bravery met the charge of the French Cavalry and obliged them to retire. I have great satisfaction to think that although we were obliged to retreat, the object of the action was attained, namely, that of saving the town, as from the acknowledgment of the French Officers it was their inten- tion to have attacked it, but from the check they got, and thinking we would not liave gone out to meet them if not supported in our rear they changed their direction. " (Signed), " Charles Veeeker, " Colonel^ Limerick City Regiment. "Sligo, September SOih, 1798." Colonel Vereker in this despatch omitted to mention how his retreat was covered by Sligo men, but for whose exertions the cavalry would have been annihilated. The following incident, well known at the time, and still current amongst the Protestant population about Collooney, is thus detailed in The Sligo Journal of 14th September : " Pressed in the above action by an army so much superior to ours, nothing could exceed the service rendered by Mr. Archibald Armstrong, who at the head of thirty-two men (yeoman infantry), had taken so advantageous a position that the retreat of the cavalry was effectually secured." 22 HISTORY OF SLIGO. As may be seen from the petition given beneath^ Captain Armstrong had subsequently a very active military career. The fact of his having been the means of covering the retreat of the cavalry and the Limerick Militia was a well-recognized fact, and he succeeded in obtaining a commission for his son on these grounds. A silver medal was subsequently struck by the Corporation of Limerick for presentation to their City Regiment to com- memorate this engagement. It is 1'55 inches in diameter, bearing on the obverse the arms of Limerick, with the legend CoKPuRATioN AND CiTiZENS OF LiMERiCK. On the rcvorse a Royal Crown, within olive wreaths, and the legend To the Heroes of Colooney, 5th Sept., 1798 ; in small letters is the name of the artist, i. e. Brush. At top was a small perforated projection for a ring by which it could be suspended (Figs. 8 & 9). ^ " To the Right Honorable General Lord Hill, Conunander-iii- Chief, G.C.B., o.n. & K.C, &c. &c. "The Memorial of Archibald Armstrong, late Captain of the 71st Regiment, "Most Humbly Showeth, — Tliatyour Memorialist at a very early period of his life manifested a strong predilection for His Majesty's service, having in the year 1798, at the head of an armed party of the loyal inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood of Collooney, in co-operation with the troops under the command of Colonel Vereker (now Lord Gort), succeeded in gaining the flank of General Humbert's corps, and in checking by their Are the enemies' attack upon the King's troops, at Collooney, on the 5th of September, 1798. "That in May, 1801, your Memorialist purchased a commission in the 71st Regiment, succeeded to aLieutenancy in 1803, and served under the command of Lieutenant-General Sir D. Baird in the reduction of the Cape of Good Hope, in January, 1806, and served under the command of General Lord Viscount Beresford in the capture of Buenos Ayres, &c. &g. &c. " Your Memorialist humbly, but confidently hopes that your Lordship will be pleased to take his long and active services of 20 years and 6 months into your kind consideration, and recommend his son Archibald for an Ensign's Commission in a Regiment of the line. " And your Memorialist wiU for ever most gratefully pray. "Archibald Armstrong, ^^ Late Captain list Rec/iinent, and Chief Co7istable or Sub- Inspector. " Strabane, " imh February, 1840." [To face page 11. FiR. 8. Fig. Figs. 8 and 9.— Ohverse and Reverse oi' Medal struck hy the CORI'ORATION Ol- LiMERICK For presentation to their City Regiment. [Full size.] MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 23 Completely checked by the resistance which they had so unexpectedly encountered, the French abandoned the idea of advancing on Sligo, and leaving Collooney, marched towards Drumahaire.^ About three o'clock in the afternoon on the day of the battle at Collooney, some country people entered the town of Sligo and announced that the troops had been beaten, and the French were advancing; on which intelligence many Protestant women together with some few men embarked in the ships ; those, however, who were capable of bearing arms, to the number of about three hundred, resolved to defend the town, and were joined by a number of Methodists, headed by their preacher, Albert Blest. The troops who had remained behind under command of Colonel Sparrow occupied the most advan- tageous posts in the approaches leading to the town, and they continued under arms all night. On Thursday, the 6th September, the officer in command of the troops in Sligo ordered a retreat on Bally shannon, and he was accompanied by a majority of the respectable inhabitants. The town was thus left at the mercy of the French and the insurgents, but was re-occupied again on Friday, the 7th. " During the above anxious period," remarks the Editor of The Sligo Journal, '* all here was silent as the night, no business of any kind done, and nothing was seen in our streets save a few, a very few, citizens, who with a holy fear kept a desultory watch. We printed not ; for what had we to say ? or to whom publish our tale of woe ? " In pursuit of the French, General Lake arrived at Bellahy, where he was informed that they had passed on, more than fourteen hours before. About seven o'clock that evening he reached Tubbercurry, where he encamped, and remained some hours. He was there joined by Colonel Crawford. General Lake marched from Tubbercurry to Collooney, heard there of the action, and found a number of French killed, 1 The Dublin Evening Post, 28th October, 1798, contains an address from the High SherifE and Grand Jury of the Countj' Sligo, complimenting all concerned in the action at Collooney on their conduct on that occasion. 24 HISTORY OF SLIGO. and also some wounded who were under the care of a French surgeon. At Collooney a deserter from the Longford Regiment was recognized by some of the advance guard and shot. Numbers of dead or dying men were found along the road, having been killed by the corps of light dragoons, who formed the reconnoitering party ; and the French had been so hard pressed in the pursuit that, about a mile from Collooney, they left on the road two pieces of cannon, and threw five more into the river at Drumahaire. On the night of the 7th of September, General Lake encamped at Ballintogher, between Drumahaire and Collooney, and on the 8th the surrender of the French at Ballynamuck^ ended the actual warfare. General Lake received in Collooney some curious particulars relative to the French troops, it being stated that their officers declared themselves to have been grossly deceived : " they had expected to be joined by the whole power of the country, i. e. by an organized and disciplined army, who only required to be put in motion to ensure success. Instead of this, they found only a barbarous undisciplined mob, the refuse of the country, unfit for action, and incapable of order ; ferocious towards their allies, and discordant amongst themselves." It may be well to state here what occurred in Tireragh, ' Subjoined is the nominal roll of the principal French officers captured at Ballynamuck, as given in the columns of The Sligo Journal. It is of interest, as all enumerated must have been present at the prior engagement of Collooney : — "Humbert, Greneral en Chef; Thibault, Payeur; Sarazin, Gen. de Divi- sion; Puton, Aide- de-Camp; Fontaine, Gen. de Brigade ; Laferure, Chef de Brigade attache, a L'Etat Major; Dufour, do. do.; Aulty, Chef de Battalion ; Demanche, do. ; Touissaint, do. ; Babin, do. ; Silbermon, do. ; Menou, Commissaire Ordonnateur ; Framair, do. ; Brillier, Commissaire de Guerre ; Moreau, Capitaine Wagnemestre Gen. ; Ardouin, Chef de Brigade ; Serve, Chef de Battalion ; Hais, do. ; Machaud, do. ; Brand et Massonet, Officiers de Sante. "Recapitulation: — Sous Officiers 96; Grenadiers 78; Fusiliers 440; Carabiniers 33; Chasseurs 60; Cannoniers 41 — total 746; Officiers 96. Total, 842. *' Certifie par le Chef de Brigade, "P. Ardouin." MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 25 and the following account is principally derived from letters written by persons who had been actually eye-witnesses of the incidents narrated. When the French marched from Killala on Ballina, some resistance was made at the bridge which spans the Moy by a few volunteers ; but many of these were Roman Catholics, and on the appearance of the French they immediately bolted. The Protestant inhabitants of the barony dreaded not only the approach of the French, but likewise the cruelty of the rebels ; and aware also of there being no troops of any kind on the line from Ballina to Sligo, they fled to the latter place for protection. Many Protestant farmers were seen retreating on foot, driving their cattle and sheep before them, and conveying on carts their wives and children and such of their goods as they could conveniently remove. The Protestant clergy were also compelled to fly precipitately; the persecution levelled against them had not been confined to imprisonment of their persons and destruction of tlieir houses and property, but was even extended to the demolition of their churches, from which all carpenter work was. removed, and the books found in them wantonly torn. Amongst the churches most damaged were those of Lackan, Easky, Killraaeteige, and Enniscrone. Of the latter they tore up the flooring, demolished the pews and communion table, rifled the tombs, and desecrated the remains of the dead. In this work of destruction the Sligo insurgents were aided by those of Mayo. All the houses of the gentry were plundered ; some were even demolished. The principal sufferers were Mr. Nesbitt of Scurmore, Mr. Fenton of Easky, Mr. Brown of Fort- land, Mr. Grove, rector of Kilmacslialgan, Mr. Charles and Mr. Robert Jones, the Messrs. Wood, and several others. James Crofton of Longford was absent from his residence, but his father, an aged but very resolute man, refused to leave, even after being informed that the rebels purposed to visit the house. The old man, who was bedridden, caused his couch to be placed across the front door, and informed his assailants that if they entered it should be across his body. They replied that 26 HISTORY OF SLIGO. it was his son they " wanted," and he not being at home, they left the father unmolested/ It was probably the same party of rebels who took possession of the house of a gentleman resident in the immediate neighbour- hood, but who had gone to Sligo on the capture of Balliua by the French. The cattle grazing in the demesne were slaughtered, huge fires lighted, and the operation of cooking performed al fresco. The rebel leaders regaled themselves upon the contents of the cellar, and one of the soldiers seeing that the officers drank the best of everything, thought the men should have a share, and saluting Colonel O'Dowd, a descendant of the O'Dowds of Tireragh, he suggested that the men also should get a drink, but before O'Dowd could make any reply another officer told the man to take the water cart down to the stream and fill it, and that it would hold more than the men would require. The retort of the embryo soldier was worthy of the occasion, "I'm entirely obliged to you, sir," said he, " but if we're always to be soles, a-nd ye tippers, we'd as lief have gone on serving King Greorge." Some Protestants on the coast put out to sea in boats in order to avoid the excesses of the rebels; some fled to the mountains and hid in caves, whilst others lay in the cornfields and were ^ The strange career of Henry Crofton, an ancestor of the Sligo family of that name, may be of interest : " Henry Crofton was attainted by William III,, and fled to Spain, where he joined some order of the Roman Catholic Church. His attainder being subsequently reversed, he returned to Ireland, professed to be a Protestant, so very decided a Protestant indeed that he wrote a controversial book styled the ' Key to Popery,' Becoming dissatis- fied, however, he returned to Spain, and to his former creed, but again relapsed, and finally in Spain was burned as a heretic. "Interest in the Stuart cause would seem to have survived in the family long after the decease of the volatile Henry Crofton, for James, son of Sir Malby Crofton, married the grand-daughter of Archibald Cameron (brother of Lochiel), the last of the long list of victims to their devotion to the worthless Stuarts. Archibald Cameron had fled to France, and after residing there many years, returned to his native country, imagining that all fear was then over, as the presence of other well-known Jacobites had been tolerated by the Government. However, for some reason which has not been divulged, he was arrested, tried, and condemned. The authorities would not listen to any appeal, though his wife, it is stated, was allowed a personal interview with George II., who refused to reprieve him." MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 27 almost starved. A letter from Mrs. Jones, describing her escape from Ai'dnaree, conveys a graphic idea of these disturhed times. She managed with difficulty to escape with her four children and some other refugees; all the servants had joined the rebels. It was not without dangers and adventui'es that she made her way to Fortland, the residence of her uncle, Mr. Brown, who had just abandoned the house. She then left for Tanregoe, the seat of her brother. Colonel Irwin, who was at that time in Wexford, with the Sligo Militia. Here she learned that the bridge of Ballydrihed was being broken down, and that Ballysadare was in possession of the rebels; there- fore the only way of escape was by water ; so after tacking to and fro, and the water dashing over them in the boat, they were at last landed at the sand-banks, from whence they proceeded on foot to Ballydrihed — which was then in possession of Captain James Wood's corps of yeomanry — and continued their course to Sligo. General Trench and Lord Portarlington agreed to attack Killala simultaneously, the former advancing on it from the south, the latter from the north. Lord Portarlington marched from Sligo on the 21st September, with his own and the Queen's County Regiment, a detachment of the 24th Dragoons, the Tireragh Yeomen Infantry, commanded by Captain James Wood, and the Tireragh Yeoman Cavalry under Captain Ormsby ; the whole amounting to about 800 men, with two pieces of cannon. They halted the first night at Arkill Lodge, where the rebels approached, but made no attack. On the night of the 22nd, however, when encamped at Scurmore, they were attacked by a numerous body of insurgents commanded by Henry O'Keon and Mr. Barret, but they were soon routed witli a loss of about 200 killed, amongst them being some Protestants whom the rebels had forced to the front in order to draw the fire of the troops upon them, and who, when the rebels broke and fled, fell in the indiscriminate slaughter of the pursuit. The rebel leader, John M'Dounough, by whose order these innocent people had been driven to their death, was captured a few days after- wards and hanged. 28 HISTORY OF SLIGO. The next morning', i.e. the 2'3rd September, Balllna was occupied by Captain O'Hara's, Captain Wynne's, and Captain Crofton's corps of yeomanry, which formed portion of the force under command of Major General Trench ; these, together with the two Tireragh corps, assisted in the recapture of Killala. Towards the close of the year (October 27) four French frigates and a man-of-war made their appearance off the Sligo Coast. This news was brouglit in by the Fox cutter, which escaped under a heavy fire distinctly heard in the streets of Sligo, and the excitement " put a stop to all trade for this market day. Colonel Gough, commanding the garrison, ordered the troops to be in readiness to march at a moment's notice." These vessels were probably connected with the abortive descent of Napper Tandy on the Rosses in Donegal. The following were the committee of Sligo magistrates ap- pointed by Government to inquire into losses sustained owing to the excesses of the insurgents, and to decide on the claims of each applicant : — Arthur Irwin, W. Harloe Phibbs, E,ev. Messrs. Duke, Cullen, and West. £15,769 14s. 2d. was claimed by the "Suffering Loyalists" of the County Sligo for their losses sustained in the rebellion of 1798, and which amount was laid before the Commissioners appointed by Act of Parliament for compensating them. The total foi all Ireland was £823,517 Qs. 4d. It is difficult to make out with any exactness the total sum allowed by the Commissioners in the County Sligo for these claims, for although there are printed lists, which appear to have been presented to Parliament, still amongst the papers on this subject preserved in the Record Office, supplemental grants seem to have been frequently made. The proceedings have in almost every instance been recorded, and will, for any person interested in the subject, repay perusal. [See Appen- dix B.) The yeomanry had been found of such use during the rebellion that they were continued, by Act of Parliament, as a permanent military force — but except called out for regular service, not subject to the articles of war. MILITARY HISTOKY OF SLIGO. 29 The same difficulty that is sometimes experienced in England with the volunteers, in regard to the recovery of the arms, accoutrements, and appointments of men who refused to sur- render them, was also felt by officers commanding yeomanry corps in Ireland; but by the Act 42 Geo. III., &c., any member of a corps when discharged, if he neglected to hand over his kit thereby rendered himself liable to a penalty of £10. It seems to have been a popular force, for in the year 1828 there were in the County Sligo 528 yeomen. The honour of belonging to the body must have been the principal attraction, for in consequence of tlie change of currency which took place in Ireland from 5th January, 1826, their pay was as follows : — Pay of permanent sergeant, lid per diem. Pay of permanent drummer, 9^d per diem. Inspection pay of the non-commissioned officers and privates lid for each day of Inspection. In case the corps was employed outside the county, the rate of pay was allowed in English currency. The permanent sergeants were generally old soldiers — for instance, William Carter, who for many years was non-com- missioned officer of " The County of Sligo Light Infantry," had previously served nearly four years in the Militia, was present at Vinegar Hill, had then volunteered into the 35th Foot, had been through the Egyptian and other campaigns, and had spent nearly 20 years of his life entirely on foreign service. In 1805 the strength of the yeomanry was much increased. Bridgeham, from Captain of the Ballymote Infantry, was in 1799 appointed Brigade-Major in command of the following corps : — Abraham Martin, . Capt. 1st Company, Sligo Loyal Vol vmtcers. Alexander Hume, J. Everard, Samuel Bulteel, Charles Martin, Thomas Ormsby, Owen Wynne, T. Soden, John Wood, . „ 2nd ,, „ )? 3rd ,, ,, Capt. Sligo Revenue Infantry. Capt. Sligo Union Infantry. Capt. Sligo Light Infantry. Capt. Carbury Cavalry. Capt. Drumcliff Infantry. Capt. Templeboy Infantry. 30 HISTORY OF SLIGO. James Crofton, . Capt. County Sligo Infantry. Eichard Wood, . Capt. Tircragh Infantry. James Morton, . Capt. Ardnaree Infantry. Charles Jones, . Capt. S. T. Infantry. J. Irwin, . . Capt. 1st Company E. T. Supplementaries. Charles O'Hara, . Capt. Corran and Liney Cavalry. Eichard Gethin, . Capt. Ballymote Infantry. John Workman, . Capt. Tirerrel Cavalry. J. Johnston, . . Capt. Ballintogher Supplementaries. The discipline of the various corps appears to have been excellent, and judging by the accounts and pay sheets, the interior economy was good ; quarterly returns had to be sent to the War Office, and strict orders were enforced against the yeomen joining any procession or playing any party tunes, more especially on the 12th of July. The corps appear to have been regularly inspected by a Brigade-Major of yeomanry, specially appointed for that duty, as subjoined will show : — "The following corps of yeomanry of the County Sligo were inspected by Major Crawford and Colonel Hale of the 23rd Eegiment, at Dromore West on the 13th January, 1831 : — The Easkey and Castletown, under Captain Eenton ; The Templeboy, under Captain Grove. "At Sligo on the 14th January, The Sligo Loyal, under Captain James Wood ; The Sligo Union, under Captain C. Martin ; The Drumcliffe, under Captain John Wynne, M.P. "At CoUooney, on the same date, The Tikeragh and Templehouse, under Captain Eichard Wood ; The County Sligo Loyal Infantry,' under Major O'Hara-; The Cooper's Hill, under Capt. A. B. Cooper; The Ballymote, under Lord Kirkwall. " Colonel Hale expressed himself highly pleased at the appearance and discipline of the several Corps." The yeomanry seem to have been compulsorily reduced circa 1834 ; the permanent sergeants and buglers were discon- tinued, and they were disbanded shortly afterwards. ' \st August, 1820. — Malby Crofton was 1st Lieutenant on the 29th January, 1831. John Armstrong was gazetted 2nd Captain, and Meredith Thompson, Jun., to be 1st Lieutenant, vice Crofton, appointed Chief Constable of Police. - Appointed in 1819. MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 31 Tlie Militia would seem to have been permanently em- bodied, from the close of 1792 to the middle of the year 1814. Entries in the Yestry-books of the Union of St. John's demon- strate the fact that, in order to keep up the Eegiment to its full strength, money had to be levied on the various districts. On this subject, the following extracts may prove of interest: — " Eesolved. — That the sum. of forty pounds nineteen shillings sterl. be applotted and levied off the Union at large, and paid to the Col. of the Sligo Militia for the purpose of procuring the Quota of men to be added to s"*. Reg', according to Act ParP. £40 19s. Od." 7th April, 1798. At a vestry meeting held in St. John's Church on the 10th December, 1807— " For the purpose of taking into consideration the best and most effectual Mode to raise the Quota of men (33) for the County of Sligo Militia, appertained on these Parishes pursuant to Act of Parliament, the Minister, Churchwardens and Parishioners being present ; Eesolved, that the steps necessary to make out Lists of the persons to be balloted to serve in the County Militia be immediately taken and such lists forthwith made out according to Law." Again, in the year 1812, this entry occurs — "To am', of Militia money pd. Cap'. Tyler, £112 I2s. Sd." The pay of privates was a shilling per diem, and a penny for beer money ; they were obliged to pay for 5 lbs. of meat a week ; some eat bread, some " stirabout," and some potatoes, the quantity used of the last being four stone per week. The following was the scale per week for each private at the time the Regiment was quartered at Cahir, in the year 1808 : — " 5 lbs. of meat at 4d. ; 4 stones of potatoes at l^d. ; washing 4d., barrack cook 1^. ; total 2s. Id. Any other food depended on the individual taste of the men ; some of them drank beer. One suit of clothes per annum was supplied by the Colonel at a cost of £2 10s. ; the men provided their own lodgings, received 4d. per diem as marching money or if sent on escort duty." Almost immediately after its embodiment in 1793, the Sligo Regiment was moved to the South of Ireland, and was replaced in December, 1791, by the Clare Militia. After its 32 HISTORY OF SLIGO. campaign in the South of Ireland, it was marched to Dimdalk ; whilst from the 12th July to 28th August, 1807, it was at *' Clonoony," and the following year it was stationed at Cashel under the command of Colonel Irwin. In 1810 it was at Limerick — it then mustered 609 rank and file — a large comple- ment, if the number be taken into consideration that were constantly volunteering for active service. Volunteering — so called — was very probably stimulated by bounties and by money paid to the men by officers who were desirous of entering the line, as an officer bringing a certain number of men with him was granted a Commission. Whilst stationed in the South of Ireland, the light com- panies of the militia regiments there quartered were formed into a temporary brigade, and the light companies of the Sligo Militia composed a portion of it, Major-General H. T. Montresor, commanding the troops in Limerick, reported of the Sligo Regiment as follows : — "Limericb:, 2lst May, 1811. " The exemplary conduct of the Sligo Regiment in this Garrison vies with their steadiness in the field." Shortly after, the Sligoes were ordered to embark for England ; and with the object of reconciling the married men to the change, they were ail allowed to be accompanied by their wives and families witliout restriction as regards numbers; and provisions as well as accommodation were allotted to them on board the transports. Whilst in England the Sligo Militia appears to have borne a high reputation. " Beigade Orders. "Chelmsford, mh Oct., 1813. "Colonel Hutchinson has experienced extreme regret in having this forenoon received official directions, not less unwelcome to him- self individually, than he can with safety take upon him to assert to the Garrison in general, for the removal of the SUgo Eegiment from this station. The Colonel, having since the first of May last enjoyed the greatest possible satisfaction, added to the honour of liaving the MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 33 Sligo under his command, cannot in justice to his own conviction as well as to their acknowledged merits suffer a corps so conspicuously distinguished for its military characteristics of high discipline in the field, and interior economy and regularity in quarters, to depart with- out attempting to solicit their kind acceptance of his hest thanks, accompanied hy every assurance of the lasting sentiments of esteem, regard, and respect, in which their conduct has always entitled them personally and professionally to he rememhered." Wheu leaving their quarters in Northamptonsliire they received equal commendation. " BiuGADE Orders. " General "Williams has great pleasure in expressing the satisfac- tion he has received from the uniform good conduct of the Sligo Regiment during the period it has been under his command, and the Major-General desires to offer his thanks to Major O'Hara for the unremitting zeal and ability with which he has commanded the Regi- ment. His acknowledgments are likewise due to Major Sir James Crofton and the other officers of the Regiment for their zealous jier- formance of their duties." A curious little diary kept by one of the officers is still in existence, and describes the various places the regiment marched through on its way to Bristol, for embarkation to Limerick — i.e., Oundle, Fotheringay, Kettering, Wellings- borough, Northampton, Towcester, Brackley, Stow, &c. In 1814, at the conclusion of the European War, all Militia Battalions were disbanded ; the Sligoes had been nineteen years embodied, and evidently must have well deserved the compliments paid them : — " District Order. "Limerick, October 1th, 1814. " The County of Sligo Militia having received Routes to march towards that county for the purpose of being disembodied. Colonel Armstrong cannot permit a corps that has so many claims on his attention and esteem to quit this District without endeavouring to express the high sense which he entertains of the ardent zeal and distinguished ability with which the Military duties of the Regiment have been uniformly conducted. To the Field Officers and Captains the greatest praise is due ; their excellent conduct and example as D 34 HISTORY OF SLIGO. gentlcTuen and soldiers could not fail of producing among all classes of the corps that steady attention to professional reputation, that happy unanimity, and genuine cordiality, which have invariahly characterized their conduct. " Colonel Armstrong therefore feels sincere satisfaction in tendering to all the Officers of the Sligo his warmest acknowledgments and best wishes for their future welfaie and happiness, and he requests that Major O'Hara will be pleased to communicate to the non-com- missioned officers and private men of that corps his perfect appro- bation of their good discipline, steadiness, and intelligence which have marked their conduct on all occasions, and particularly on duties of detachment." The Militia formed a valuable aid to the service all through the struggle with France ; they had been constantly under arms, and in a speech in the House of Commons in 1813 Lord Castlereagh thus alludes to their services : — "We could not have kept possession of Portugal, or have sent forces to co-operate in the deliverance of the Peninsula at large ; and Parliament ought always therefore to bear in recollection that it is to the Militia we owe the character we at present enjoy in military Europe, and that without this Militia we could not have shown that face which we have done in the Peninsula." The first mention that can be found of change in desig- nation of the Sligo Regiment is in 1843, where (under the heading of "Disembodied Militia"), it is described as the 124th, instead of the 22nd Light Infantry. On the 8th February, 1855, the Regiment was embodied, and it then appeared as a rifle corps, tlie Charter-school House being used as a temporary barracks. The regiment was shortly after moved to Longford : and on the 25th August, 1856,^ it was disembodied. In the year 1877 it was compulsorily trans- ^ An old army pensioner named Allen Armstrong and his wife received in the year 1855 a cheque for £19 on a Sligo Bank from the Private Secre- tary of the Emperor Napoleon. Armstrong had served 30 years in the army, and was stationed at St. Helena when Napoleon was confined there, and for a length of time his wife acted in the capacity of washerwoman to the Emperor. This fact being brought under the notice of Napoleon III., by a Memorial, the above remittance was the result. Armstrong served in eleven battles against Napoleon I., and by a strange chance received a gratuity from his successor. — The Sligo Champion, 28th April, 1855. MILITARY HISTORY OF SLIGO. 35 formed into an Artillery Brigade, the officers being allowed no compensation for the change of uniform. At that period it was styled " 8th Brigade (Duke of Connaught's Own) North- Irish Division, R.A." Its present designation is "The Duke of Connaught's Own Sligo Artillery, South Division, E.A." The want of sufficient Barrack accommodation in the town causes the Militia now to go through their course of annual training under canvas at Rosses' Point — four miles distant. Appendix C contains a list of Officers of the Oo. Sligo Regiment, showing the rank last held by each, from the year 1793 to 1890. Shortly after the permanent embodiment of the Militia, in 1793, " Grovernors of the County Sligo " were appointed. Colonel Irwin, in 1828, stated before a Committee of the House of Commons, that the particular duties of the Grovernors of a County in Ireland were connected with the Militia of that County; "I may confidently say," he continued, "that if I had not been appointed Colonel of the Regiment, I should not have been appointed a Grovernor of the County." In 1801 the Governors were — the Rt. Hon. J. Cooper, Charles O'Hara, Owen Wynne, Esquires, and the Rt. Hon. H. King. It appears also as if any one of these Grovernors could either him- self appoint, or recommend the appointment of Magistrates, and one of the changes suggested by Colonel Irwin in his evidence as above quoted was, that only one person in each County should have that power ; afterwards an Act of the 1 & 2 William IV. confines the power to the Lieutenant of the County. As regards the Militia, although the appointment to a first Commission is still his prerogative, yet if he fail to nominate within a specified time, the power then lapses to the Officer Commanding the Regiment. Her Majesty's Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum for County Sligo is Lt.-Col. Edward Henry Cooper, of Markree Castle, appointed 1877. The Deputy-Lieutenants, fourteen in number, are : — Crofton, Sir Malby, Bart. ; Duke, R. A. ; ."Ffolliott, Lt.-Col. John ; Gore-Booth, SirHemy W., Bart. ; Gore, Lt.-Col. Sir Charles J. Knox, Bart. ; Harlech, Lord ; Irwin, Burton ; Knox, Utred A. ; O'Hara, C. « 2 36 HISTORY OF SMGO. W. ; MacDermot, The ; Palmer, Major-General Sir Roger W. H., Bart. ; Phibbs, Owen ; Wood-Martin, Lt.-Col. W. Gr. ; Wynne, Owen. In the mouth of June, 1860— despite the Foreign Enlist- ment Act — about one hundred aspirants for military fame — being of all ages and sizes— embarked on board the steamship " Shgo," en route for Eome, their purpose being to act as soldiers for Pope Pius IX, ; they do not appear to have fared too well in Italy, for their wretched condition forms the topic of leading articles in newspapers of the period; and in No- vember of the same year several of these volunteers arrived in Sligo, having been conveyed home by the liberality of the British G-overnment, to whom they had appealed for aid in their difficulties. In 1867, at about 1 a.m., 27th April, the Chief Boatman in charge of Streedagh Station arrested a stranger, who gave un- satisfactory answers to his inquiries, and about two hours after- wards two men — also strangers to the locality — were found, lying wounded, on the beach. These men were supposed to have been landed by a brigantine of very suspicious appearance, which at that period was cruising in Sligo Bay, with a crew of fifty hands. In 1856 the Admiralty first took charge of the Coast- guard, which in Sligo consists of two divisions, under Divisional Officers ; the headquarters of the first being at Eosses' Point, and the second at Pullendiva. The Sligo Division has (within the County), the following stations : — Posses' Point, with a Divisional Officer and seven men ; Paughley, a Chief Boat- man and five men ; MuUaghmore, a Chief Officer and eight men. From this place three men are detached to Bally- shannon, in the County Donegal. The Pullendiva Division has (in the County Sligo), the following stations: — At Derk- more, a Chief Boatman and four men ; at Pullendiva, a Divi- sional Officer and sis men ; at PuUocheny, a Chief Boatman and four men ; at Enniscrone, a Chief Boatman and five men. CHAPTER XVIII. POLITICAL HISTORY OF THE COU^'TY AND BOROUGH OF SLIGO. HE early members of Parliament for the County Sliffo call for little remark. Erom the Eevolution of 1688, the Gores, Wingfields, Morgans, Cootes^ and Ormsbys held sway, until the advent of the Wynnes, who appear to have retained — with but two short intervals — one seat in the County, together with the two seats in the Borough, from 1727 to 1790. In 1695 Arthur Cooper, of Markree, a defeated candidate, petitioned against the return of Wingfield and Morgan, alleg- ing that he was duly elected instead of Morgan. In 1703 William Ormsby petitioned against the return made by the Sheriff who had declared the above two gentlemen again duly elected. In 1719 Joshua Cooper claimed a seat instead of Francis Ormsby as returned by the Sheriff. In 1776 Mr, Wynne declined to nominate' William Ormsby, of Willowbrook, ^ Nominees of patrons of Boroughs were expected to vote as the patron directed ; but some members of the old Irish Parliament were not exempt from political inconsistency. Curran, a great stickler for purity, offered a good example. " He first entered the House of Commons in Dublin as the nominee of Mr. Longfield, who was subsequently Lord Longueville. Curran sat for Kilbeggan ; but he stipulated that his action should be entirely un- shackled, and that the patron of the Borough should not presume to influence his vote. Mr. Longfield, looking upon the stipulation as a formality for the ease of Curran's conscience, consented. A time came, however, when the nominee's vote highly displeased the patron, and a quarrel ensued. Curran could not resign his seat, for Irish members had not then the opportunity which the stewardsliip of the Chiltern Hundreds affords to legislators desirous of withdrawing from the responsibility of making laws; the honour- able member for Kilbeggan, nevertheless, had a remedy for the difficulty. The independent Irish patriot offered to purchase a borough and a represen- tative for it who should 7iever vote but in accordance loith Mr. Longjield's directions !^^ 38 HISTORY OF SLIGO. who had sat as one of the members for the Borough from 1757 to that date, and he, accordingly, together with Sir B. Gore, Bart., contested the County with the patron of the Borough and Mr. Cooper ; both the former were unsuccessful, but petitioned, alleging bribery, corruption, treating, and other undue in- fluences. The Eight Hon. Owen Wynne being unseated, thereupon a fresh election took place the following year, when Owen Wynne, Junr., was declared duly elected. A petition was lodged by Ormsby, but was unsuccessful;^ and the Wynnes kept possession of the seat until 1790 ; but in that year Mr. Cooper defeated Mr. Wynne in a severely contested election ; so severe was the struggle that the Masonic Lodges in the town — according to the records in their books — did not meet for two months, "the majority of the members being unavoidably engaged in the election." In 1797 Mr. Wynne again came forward, and in his address, dated Hazlewood, 20th July, 1797, thanked the electors for the " very honourable, tho' unsuccessful support " he had experienced at the previous election. The families of O'Hara and Cooper next became paramount, 1 There were charges and countercharges of bribery and intimidation made by the opposing candidates. The following notice relative to the election appeared in the Sligo Journal: — " A HuNDKED AND FiFTT-FivE GUINEAS Rewaed. — We, the under- named, taking into our most serious consideration the atrocious attack that has been lately made on the Privileges of many of the electors of the County of Sligo by some person or persons having secured or destroyed the Registey Book containing a List of the forty-shilling Freeholders of said County, and being desirous of making manifest our just abhorrence of such an infamous transaction and of doing everything in our power that may tend towards discovering the Axjthoe or Axjthoes of such secretion or destruction, do hereby promise and engage, respectively, to pay such sum as is annexed to each of our names, to any person who is able to throw such light on the above abominable business, as may bring to open and public conviction the perpetrator or perpetrators of the same." — July 2, 17 78. The list is headed by 0. Wynne, candidate, for £56 17s. Qd., Joshua Cooper and 0. Wynne for £22 15s. each; whilst the following gentlemen respec- tively guaranteed £5 13s. 2d. : Henry Hughes, Arthur Cooper, W. H. Cooper, Arthur Cooper, jun., Folliott Wynne, John Martin, Robert Lyons, Phil. Burne, Robert Hillas, Hyac. O'Rorke, Hen. Griffith, Wm. Gibson, sen., Robert Bolton. POLITICAL HISTORY OF SLIGO. 39 and retained the representation of the County for a lengthened period. In those times contested elections were frequently of pro- longed duration : the freeholders had to be brought in from remote parts, each candidate paying all expenses of voters in his favour ; open house was kept, and the publicans reaped a rich harvest. It is recounted of a successful candidate that, shortly after his return to Parliament, he received from one of these publicans a bill amounting to £1030 "for entertaining his Honour's voters with black, red, and white wine"! When the electioneering agent proceeded, amongst others, to settle the account in ques- tion, Boniface, on being questioned as to details, said, that if "his Honour" paid him "the thousand," he would knock of "the thirty." The agent retorted that supposing he (Boniface) received "the thirty," he would have to knock off "the thou- sand": such was the eventual settlement. These political contests were often decided by the superiority of a very few votes ; and towards the close of one of this nature, an extremely tall, immature-looking youth made his appearance, but the opposite party objected to his vote, alleging that he was under age. On his side arose shouts of "Poll him, poll him"; and the mob, imagining the expression to refer to the great height and lank or pole-like figure of the young man, burst into a roar of laughter whilst his vote was being recorded ; and to the end of his life that voter was so well known by the sobriquet of "Pole'm" that most people supposed it to be his baptismal name. In 1822, on the death of Mr. O'Hara, his son declined to ofPer himself for the representation of which his family had held undisputed possession, in the Independent interest, for nearly forty years. Upon his refusal there ensued the most bitterly contested election that ever took place in the County ; and it resulted in the return of the Hon. Henry King and the defeat of his opponent. Colonel Perceval. The date for commencing the election happened to fall on a Saturday ; but the law then gave power of adjourning to the succeeding day — Sunday inter- vening. An application was made to allow one man on eacli side to poll, the reason assigned being that there was an elderly 40 HISTORY OE SLIGO. gentleman from the County Eoscommon whom it would be inconvenient to detain. The titular Bishop of Killala was then brought forward — a measure intended to produce a religious effect upon the electors ; and, therefore, with a view of main- taining perfect impartiality on both sides, the High Sheriff, Colonel Irwin, refused to allow any poll to be taken till the Monday. In this election religious feeling was greatly ex- cited : the military had to fire on the mob, who pelted them, and one of the oJEficers was severely injured. " Stones were flying as fast as hailstones : it was some time before the riot could be quelled ; however, the soldiers' firing had the effect of stopping the practice of stone-throwing afterwards." In distant parts of the County, roads were either cut or had walls built across them during the night, by the peasantry, in order to prevent cars from reaching Sligo with voters in time to be safely housed and protected from intimidation before night- fall ; the houses of electors were visited by mobs for the purpose of warning them to vote only as directed. In the streets of the town, during successive days, there was more or less rioting; and in the booths were to be heard scuffling, wrangling, intem- perate language, charges of bribery, partiality, and intimidation. As the candidates ran a neck-and-neck race the polling was watched with the greatest interest, for it was but the renewal of the struggle of 1790, when the Wynne family lost the seat — tlie war-cry of the opposing factions being " Wynne and Per- ceval," " Martin and King," thus bringing into prominence the names of the supporters of the respective candidates. The local papers were filled with accounts of the trials of persons indicted at the ensuing spring assizes for riot. One witness, an ex-drummer, described himself as " poet and ballad- singer " to one of the candidates. " I am told," said the lawyer, wlio cross-examined him, " that you were a noisy fellow." " Yes, sir," replied the ex-soldier, "I used to beat the tattoo ! " Wlien the non- success of Perceval became apparent, a plot was laid to entangle Mr. Martin — the Hon. Henry King's most ardent supporter — in a legal dilemma. A man was employed by his political opponents to create a disturbance at POLITICAL HISTORY OF SLIGO. 41 his residence, "wliich the owner naturally resenting, the man ■was forcibly ejected from the house, and for this Mr. Martin was superseded in the Commission of the Peace, hut "was after- wards reinstated, on correct representation being made of the real facts of the incident. In consequence of the Earl of Kingston, elder brother of the Hon. Henry King, having taken a very active part in this election of 1822, a petition was presented to the House of Commons by an elector of Sligo, complaining of a breach of privilege, and praying for an inquiiy ; a petition alleging bribery was also presented, but was not proceeded with. The following epigram on the statement " that the honesty and sense of the County of Sligo " was represented by its members, was composed and circulated in 1829, before the election of the following year : — " Men of Sligo, aee to0 fairly eepeesentkd ? Why, then, If your members are a sample fair, of all that's good and great, Picked out with care to mark the worth of Sligo to the State, Herein your County's honesty and sense you may discover — Since King doth represent the one, as Cooper doth tlie other ! " In 1829 an enormous reduction was made in the number of electors in the County by the disfranchisement of the forty- shilling freeholders, who had possessed the right of voting under terminable leases as well as those in perpetuity. Previous to the time when the question of Catholic Emancipation was finally decided, Irish landlords relied on their forty-shilling freeholders. It did not enter into the imagination of the former that the freeholders would ever vote against them ; and during a very long period it as little entered into the conception of the freeholders that they could vote against the landlords ; *' and political gratitude was never so unpleasantly exempli- fied as in the fact that the candidates who were returned by their votes acquiesced, in 1829, in the proposal to deprive them of their franchise." In 1830 an attack was made on the Conservative seats. Cooper was proposed by Charles K. O'llara, seconded by John 42 HISTORY OF SLIGO. Armstrong ; King was proposed by the lion. Edward Wing- field, seconded by James Wood ; French was proposed by Captain Hillas, seconded by Daniel Jones. Mobs paraded the streets of Sligo ; and on the 17th August the result of three days polling was declared as follows : Edward Joshua Cooper, 465 ; General King, 385 ; Fitzstephen French, 116. From 1830 to 1841, and again from 1857 to 1859, Edward Joshua Cooper represented the County in Parliament. He was born in 1798 ; and after spending some years at Armagh and Eton, entered Christ Church College, Oxford, where he remained but two years, when he started on a lengthened series of travels. In 1821 he engaged an Italian artist, and visited Egypt, the result of his journey being published under the title of Vieivs of Egypt and Nubia. In 1824-5 he traversed Denmark, Sweden and Norway, as far as the North Cape. Mr. Cooper kept meteorological registers at Markree, but owing to his frequent absences they were very imperfect until 1833. Becoming manager of the property on the death of his father in 1830, he at once took steps towards founding an observatory, which he intended to endow, in order to ensure its permanent utility. Mr. Cooper was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society in 1853, and in 1858 received the Cunningham Medal of the Royal Irish Academy for his Catalogue of Ecliptic Stars. He died on the 23rd April, 1863. "His personal qualities were of a high order, and he was accomplished in many ways ; but his zeal for science did not lead him to neglect the duties of his position, for he was a kind and good landlord, making great exertions to educate and improve his tenantry." ^ On the 17th May, 1831, Perceval again contested the repre- sentation of Sligo, and at the close of the poll the numbers were : E. J. Cooper, 361 ; Colonel Alexander Perceval, 287 ; the Hon. General King, 191. The successful candidates were chaired round the town, with bands playing, and all the displays then usual at the termination of a contested election. " Religious ^ The Observatory : a Monthly Revieio of Astronoiny, volume yn., pp. 283, 329. POLITICAL HISTORY OF SLIGO. 43 and political animosity prevail to a considerable extent in Sligo," writes Inglis in 1834 ; " this I have generally found to be the case in Ireland whenever there is not an overwhelming majority on one side." In 1837 the county was again contested, the result being as follows : Edward Joshua Cooper, 511 ; Colonel Alexander Perceval, 443 ; Daniel Jones, 368 ; Charles Joseph M'Dermott, 6. An amusing anecdote is related of Perceval after this con- test. He had taken a seat in the omnibus connected with the coach in which he was booked for London ; there was but one seat vacant, and he said to a gentleman sitting next the door, " Pray keep the seat for me," and placed his umbrella and cap on it, while he looked after his luggage. On his return he found " the unknown " resisting the entrance of any other passengers, and took his seat. He soon heard O'Connell's well- known voice exclaiming, " Colonel Perceval, you are in a great minority in this omnibus." The Colonel was equal to the occa- sion, for he retorted, " Well, you'll see that I shall keep my seat, nevertheless, as I did at Sligo, though opposed by all the Eadicals." Party spirit in this (1837) and the following year, ran excessively high. The sheriff, Sir William Parke, placed on the grand jury every possible member of the Liberal party, commencing at the bottom of the panel, thus excluding most of the members who usually attended the assizes. For so acting, and for not having called representatives for baronies, he was fined by the Judge of Assize, before whom the matter was brought. Sligo then, and for long after, remained thoroughly Con- servative, owing to the good feeling that existed between landlords and tenants, and also to a majority of the voters being Protestant. In 1845 O'Conuell stated that " Sligo County was in a bad way," i. e. according to his view of tJie subject ; and he visited it for the purpose of stirring up a con- test — not with any hopes of winning either seat, but with the avowed intention of making the Conservatives spend money. In 1841 William Pichard Ormsby Gore, Jun., became member 44 HISTORY OF SLIGO. ill the place of Mr. Cooper, who did not seek re-election, and the same year John Ffolliott succeeded Perceval, who had been appointed Sergeant-at-Arms to the House of Lords. The representation remained unaltered until 1850, when Ffolliott, having accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, Sir Robert Gore- Booth, Bart., was elected without opposition. In 1852 the Liberals again contested the County, and succeeded in carrying one seat. The result of the poll was as follows : Sir Robert Gore-Booth, Bart., 942; Eichard Swift, 875 ; William Eichard Ormsby Gore, 774 ; John Taaffe, 39. In 1857, at the next election, the numbers polled were : for Sir Eobert Gore-Booth, Bart., and Edward Joshua Cooper, 1434 each; John Ball, 304; Eichard Swift, 5. In 1859 Charles W. Cooper O'Hara was elected, vice Edward Joshua Cooper, who declined to be re-nominated ; whilst m 1865, Mr. O'Hara retired from the representation of the county, owing to ill-health, and was succeeded by Colonel E. H. Cooper. During three years the representation of the county (/. e. Booth and Cooper) remained unaltered, but in 1868 the Liberals again wrested one seat, the numbers being : Denis Maurice O'Connor, 1722 ; Sir Eobert Gore-Booth, 1219 ; Colonel Edward Henry Cooper, 1125. In 1877, on the death of Sir Eobert Gore-Booth, Colonel Edward Eobert King-Harman was elected in his place without contest as a Liberal-Conservative. Both seats were captured by the Liberals in the General Election of 1880, Thomas Sexton polling 1591, Denis Maurice O'Connor 1551, and Edward Eobert King-Harman 1261. The Eight Hon. Colonel King- Harman died June, 1888. Towards the conclusion of his life he laboured for Ireland with zeal and purity of purpose. Denis Maurice O'Connor died in 1883 ; towards the latter years of his political career he was no favourite with the ultra- Eadical party, as he occasionally showed that he could still hold to his own opinions. One of his political opponents thus writes of him : " He made a favourable impression upon the House of Commons, for he was a clever, good, solid speaker, and even to those who had opposed his election he was courteous and always POLITICAL HISTORY OF SLIGO, 45 displayed an anxiety to serve his constituents individually and collectively." On bis decease, the representation was contested by diaries K. O'Hara, jun., and Nicbolas Lynch, and with the following result :— Lynch, 1545 ; O'Hara, 980. Mr. O'Hara had seem- ingly every prospect of success ; if promises were to be relied on, he had a clear majority ; but as the old classic orator said, " the ballot is dear to the people, for it covers men's faces and conceals their thoughts ; it gives them the opportunity of doing what they like, and promising all that they are asked." A cele- brated English wit remarks that the ballot would bring to pass that which David said only in his wrath, and make all men liars. On the Redistribution of Seats the county was divided into two districts. North Sligo consisted of the Barony of Carbury, the Barony of Tireragh, and the parishes of Ballysadare and Killoran, in the Barony of Leyny ; the remainder of the county formed the electoral division of South Sligo. In 1885 both divisions of the County were contested ; but owing to the enormous increase of the electorate the Conser- vatives were, as a political party in Sligo, completely out- numbered. North Sligo, Peter M'Donald, 5216 ; Colonel Ffolliott, 772. South Sligo, Thomas Sexton, 5150 ; Alexander Perceval, 541. The number of voters in " North Sligo," with a population of 54,657, amounted to 8591 ; " South Sligo " with a ]3opulation of 56,921 had an electorate of 8447. The old franchise consisted of a £12 rated occupancy, or other qualifications equivalent to it, but under the present system, although there is a nominal £10 rating, yet the " inhabitant occupier " clause admits the occupier to the privi- lege of voting, even if he be unrated. The only disqualifica- tions are that he must be in receipt of Poor-law relief — or if a ratepayer, his rates must not have been paid. Also in order to entitle him to vote in both divisions of the County he requires to be duly qualified in each. For the Borough of Sligo the early Members of Parliament would appear, with the exception of Sir Poger Jones, 1684, and 46 HISTORY OF SLIGO. Kean O'Hara, 1639, to have been strangers, or comparative strangers; for Ratcliffe, tlioiigli possessing property in Sligo, resided in Dublin, To vote for the return of the two members for the Borough, the qualification required was not merely to be a freeman, but also a burgess. This difficulty, however, was readily overcome by making the voter at the same meeting first a freeman, and then a burgess. Judging by the seal struck in 1709, and the subsequent succession of Provosts, the family of De Butt either enjoyed predominent political power in the borough, or they were nominees of the dominant faction. It should be borne in mind that though the Corporation, which consisted of only twelve burgesses, elected the Provost annually, yet the burgesses themselves were elected for life ; and they elected each other, so that if any one family succeeded in having more than six of his relations or friends created burgesses, the ultimate supremacy of that clique was inevitable, and the Cor- poration then became a "pocket-borough," to be utilized either for political purposes, or to be disposed of by private agreement, to some aspirant to a seat in Parliament. A crisis in the fate of the borough occurred on the 27th August, 1722, when, John De Butt being Provost, Sir Francis Lycester sent in his resignation as burgess, was accordingly disfranchised, and Samuel Burton elected in his stead. In the books of the Corporation the entries with regard to this are as follows : — "BoEouGH OF Sligo, ''August the 27th, 1722. " We the Provost and free Burgesses of the said Borough being met, pursuant to a publication posted upon the Market Cross, the nineteenth day of August instant, for an election of a Burgess this day, and waited the appointed hour in the appointed place ; the resignation of Sir Francis Lycester was openly read. And having proceeded to disfi-anchise Sir Francis Lycester pursuant to the said resignation, and he is hereby dis- franchised. And coming to an election of a Burgess in the room and place of the said Sir Francis Lycester, we do unanimously elect and choose Samuel Burton, Esq., he being a sworn freeman of the said Corporation, to be a free burgess of the said Corporation, in the room POLITICAI, HISTORY OF SLIGO. 47 and place of the said Sir Erancis Lycestcr aforesaid. As witness our hands the day and year aboA-e written, "John DeButt, Provost. " George Benxett." • " BoEOUGH OF Sligo, Auffust the 27th, 1722. " The above-named Samuel Burton, Esq., sworn one of the free Burgesses of the above Corporation according to the above election of the 27th of August, 1722. "John DeButt, Provost. " Geoege Bennett {Recorder ^' Town Clerh.y So matters remained until the election of the new Provost in October of the same year, when Mitchelburn Knox was selected for the post. This new Provost convened an assembly of the burgesses who declared the previous disfranchisement of Sir Francis Lycester and the appointment of Samuel Burton to have been illegally conducted, and proceeded to go over the affair de novo. "Boeough op Sligo, the llth day of October, 1722. " Whereas an assembly of the Burgesses of this Corporation having met this day, at the County Hall, in the Borough of Sligo : A true Copy of the resignation of Sir Francis Lycester, Bart., sworn and attested by "William Mendey, Notary Public, and confirmed by the oaths of Mitchelburn Knox, Esq., our present Provost, and Capt. John Wynne, being openly read in a Court of the free Burgesses of the said Borough, duly summoned. We the Provost and free Burgesses (having first demanded the original resignation lodged with Mr. John De Butt, late Provost of Sligo aforesaid) which he has absolutely refused to deliver to the present Provost. Being therefore obliged to proceed without the said original resignation, in order to elect a free Burgess in the room of Sir Erancis Lycester, Bart., who is hereby removed from being any longer a free Burgess in the said Borough of Sligo, and deprived of any rights, privileges, and immunities thereunto belong- ing. And our present Provost, Mitchelburn Knox, Esq., is hereby required to post up, and give public notice of the vacancy of a Burgess-ship in our said Borough, and to appoint a time and place of election pursuant to Act of Parliament. "Mitchelburn Knox, Provost.''^ ^ In all extracts herein given from the books of the Corporation, the spelling has been modernized. 48 HISTORY OF SLIGO. Au attested copy of Sir Francis Lycester's resignation is attached to the proceedings, and commences in these words : — " Whereas I am elected, and am a hurgess of the Abbey villa or town of Sligo in the County of Sligo," &c. In compliance with the above order, the Provost convened a meeting, and the notice was also " posted up on y'^ Market Cross." At this meeting the Eight Hon. Major-General Owen Wynne was unanimously elected a burgess vice Lycester re- signed. The Wynne family having now secured the majority, George Bennett — who had taken the part of De Butt — was asked what time he required " to show reason why he should not be disfranchised and removed from his burgess-ship for his manifest misbehaviour," evidently waxed irate, informed the majority that they could not disfranchise him, that they " did not know how to disfranchise, and that he defied them to dis- franchise him, and behaved himself with great contempt of the assembly, and endeavoured to provoke several of the particular members of the assembly to use him ill." The matter was soon brought to an issue by the meeting there and then turning him out fi et armis, disfranchising him, and electing Mr. Thomas Jennings in his place to be Recorder and Town Clerk. The same meeting sent to Mr. John DeButt a notice "to show cause why he should not be disfranchised and removed from his place of free burgess of the said Corporation of Sligo for his manifest misbehaviour." His reply was as follows : — "Sligo, Oct. 23rd, 1722. "WORSHIPFTTL Snt, "I received your summons requiring me to appear before you, on Tuesday, the 23rd Instant, to show cause why I should not be dis- franchised for my manifest misbehaviour. I know no cause if it be not for the conscientious discharge of my duty, as an honest magistrate, according to my oath, and would have waited on you this day to satisfy you, before all, with you present, of the manifest truth of my assertion, but for fear of being insulted and assaulted, as I was before you in the last discharge of my duty, and for fear of being turned out by the shoulders, and sent to the stocks by you — as one of my Brethren was ordered to be — and all this and much more, is no misbehaviour in POLITICAL HISTORY OF SLIGO. 49 these fayourites of yours. And to avoid the like treatment both I and my Brother had in your presence, without the least resentment, is the cause " I do not wait on you in person, that am, ""Worshipful Sir, " Your most humble servant, "John de Butt. " To the Worshipful "KiTCJi^L^jmif Knox, Esq., " Provost of Sliffo.'' The Provost's answer ran thus : — " CoTTNir Hail, Borough of Sligo, " Oct. 23rd, 1722. "SlE, " I received yours, which I don't think a sufficient answer for not attending according to your summons ; for you say you fear being insulted and treated ill, which I assure from all that are met here, that you shall meet with all the civility that you can expect, you behaving yourself to us in the same manner, and not like your late Brother Bennett, as you term him. So expect you'll attend according to your summons of the 19th Instant. " I am Sir, ' ' Tour humble servant, " MiicHELBURX Knox, Provost.' ' De Butt replied thus : — "Sligo, Oct. 23rd, 1722. ' ' "WoESHiPFTJL Sir, " I perceive the assurance you give me of being protected from insults. I might have expected that, the last time I was with you, but it did not, I shall be prepared soon to fear none, and when I am, I will wait on you and the rest of my brethren, at this time. I hope what I have offered, together that I am obliged to send a great deal by post this night, will be a sufficient reason for not waiting on you at this time. " I am, worshipful Sir, " Your most humble servant, " JoHX DE Butt." As might be expected, nothing De Butt could urge was of any avail : be was expelled ; and a meeting was summoned for E 50 HISTORY OF SLIGO. the 31st of the same month to elect two new burgesses tice De Butt and Bennett disfranchised. At this meeting Captain John Wynne and Major John Ffolliott were elected burgesses ; and in this manner the Borough of Sligo became de facto the property of the Wynne family. Strange to narrate, it was not until four years subsequently, when every burgess present was either by marriage or other ties connected with the Patron of the Borough, that the election of Samuel Burton was formally annulled : the resolution ran as follows : — " The above Act not being according to the laws and usage of the Corporation, 'tis this day ordered to be rased out of the public acts of the Corporation by the Provost and Burgesses in Council assembled. ** Given under our hands, this 24th of June, 1726. *' Owen "Wynne, Provost. "Mitchelburn Knox; George Ormsby ; John Jameson; Thomas Jennings ; W. Ormsby ; Eichard Gore ; John Booth." By the Act of Union the (representation of the Borough of Sligo was reduced to one member. All patrons of boroughs, however, received pecuniary recompense for their loss.^ Thus, prior to the Eeform Bill of 1832, the Members for the Borough of Sligo were, from the year 1722, returned by the Wynne family. The old government of the Provost and twelve burgesses having been swept away by the Eeform Bill, the number of voters on the new and reformed register is stated to have been 418,^^ as compared with 695 on the county ^ " Mr. Wynne is the patron of the Borough; he is the person that received compensation at the time of the Union." — Corporatmi Inquiry, 1833. ''The 2 William IV. c. 88 extended the franchise to £10 householders, under -which, in 1834, there were registered 694 electors; in 1849, they in- creased to 715; in 1851, under 13 & 14 Vict. c. 69, they decreased to 336, less than one half of the former number ; and in 1853 they increased to 351, of whom there were two burgesses of the old Corporation, 337 rated occupiers, and 12 otherwise qualified. POLITICAL HISTORY OF SLIGO. 61 register — by comparison a large numerical preponderance in favour of the smaller and more youthful constituency. In the year 1828 a "Brunswick Club" was established in Sligo, the President being the Hon. Colonel Wingfield, and this political combination spread rapidly through the county, branches being formed at all the small towns and centres of Protestant population. On O'Connell's visit to Sligo, during the Summer Assizes of 1828, he was entertained at a public banquet in "the new Catholic Free-School," and about one hundred and thirty sat down to dinner. The Catholic Emancipation question was warmly taken up in Sligo, Roman Catholic and Protestant meetings being of frequent occurrence. In the year 1829 the mob broke the windows of almost every Protestant householder in Sligo. In 1831 Reform and anti-Reform meetings were held in the town ; and the throwing open of the Borough to popular representation was naturally opposed most strenuously by Mr. Wynne. A very important demonstration was held in the Court House, 11th January, 1832 ; although designated an Anti-Reform meeting, yet speakers on both sides were allowed a hearing. So early as 1828, when Reform was on the tajns, Mr. John Martin had been nominated by the moderate Liberals to contest the representation of the borough with Mr. Wynne. He was not considered by some to be a politician of sufficiently advanced type, and as such O'Connell objected to him, concluding his speech thus : — " My hostility to Mr. Martin is by no means personal ; on the contrary, he is a gentleman for whom I enter- tain personal regard." However, the time for the contest drew on, and no candidate more pleasing to O'Connell was obtained. At the hustings the electors were reminded of the time when a bundle of rushes or even a horse-load of brooms could not enter the town without paying toll; and their worthy ex-Provost had been compelled to appear one night at an entertainment in very shabby lower-garments, because the smart new attire intended for the occasion had been detained at the toll-gate for want of the bearer being provided with the sum of two-pence needful to E2 52 HISTOllY OF SLIGO. pay for entitling it to be admitted within the borough.^ Fre- quently, too, their so-called representatives knew little or nothing of Sligo — had never been there : one of them in his place in the House having described it as a small fishing-village in the West of Ireland.^ On both sides the canvassing had been most vigorous, and the election commenced on the 17th December, 1832. During the three days of the contest there was fearful rioting, the town being alternately occupied by the opposing mobs, according as either side momentarily gained numerical preponderance ; at the close of the third day, Thursday, the 20th December, the poll was declared : Mr. John Martin, 213 votes; Mr. Wynne, 158. On the 9th January, 1835, there was again a General Election, when the former was returned unopposed. Earl Mulgrave — then Lord Lieutenant of Ireland — having announced his intention of visiting Sligo, the Liberals resolved to give him a reception, and applied to the High Sheriff, James Knott, of Battlefield, for the use of the Court-house, which was refused by him, and in consequence he was superseded in the commission of the peace. On the 23rd August, 1836, the trades processionists, with wands, scarfs, belts, and banners, marched a few miles out of the town to Ballysadare and Collooney, but His Excellency did not enter Sligo till six in the evening ; he was met by a deputation from the Liberals, who presented him with an address, and at night the town was illuminated. On the next day the Lord Lieutenant conferred the honour of knighthood on Colonel William Parke,^ of Dunally, and visited ^According to the evidence given before the Commission in 1833, every- thing brought in for sale paid toll, even to cabbage plants, gooseberries, nails, hats, and brogues. 2 History, it is said, repeats itself ; for the present representatives of the County are strangers to the locality, have no personal interest therein, and but for the facilities of railway travelling would be equally ignorant whether Sligo should rank as a mere fishing-village or a thriving com- mercial town. ^ Sir "William Parke, lived to an advanced age, and died at his resi- dence, Dunally, 31st August, 1851. As a magistrate and grand juror of the County, he was known for his independence and public spirit, although POLITICAL HISTOKY OF SLIGO. 53 the County Jail, when he released twenty-three prisoners. There was a great deal of party-feeling displayed on this occasion, but almost all the Protestant gentry and yeomanry held aloof. On the 24th January, 1837, Daniel O'Connell visited Sligo shortly before the General Election, for the purpose of unseating, if possible, Perceval and Cooper from the County and Martin from the Borough. As a specimen of O'Connell's style of oratory, the following extract from his speech is here given. He informed his audience that " they had already hunted a Fox (i. e. Lane-Fox) from one County, and they had now to hunt another from this (County Sligo) ; but he was sure that Fox-hunting was not half so good as Martin -hunting ; . . . and as to Colonel Perceval, they would leave him at home to mind the potatoes for he was a potato-faced fellow ; . . . and as to Mr. Cooper, unless he behaved himself better, they would leave him at home to make a cask for Colonel Perceval's red herrings."^ Hard hitting was not confined to one side : the following lines had previously appeared in the Sligo Journal on O'Connell having refused to either fight or apologize to an opponent : — " O'Connell will not fight — and why ? Because O'Connell fears to die ; Nor will he cease offence to give, Because by that he hopes to live ; Vain hope ! who like a coward flies, May save his life, his honour dies ! " always zealous in support of his own views, whicli were ultra-Liberal. Early in life he had entered the army as an Ensign in the 83rd Foot in 1791 ; in 1794 he accompanied his regiment to the West Indies, served in the Rebellion in Ireland, afterwards in the expedition to the Helder in 1799, and the Duke of York's Campaign in North Holland, and was present at all the different general engagements ; served in the expedition to Egypt under Sir R. Abercromby, was present in Portugal at the battle of Vimiera, served the entire campaign, and was wounded at Corunna ; took part in the expedition to Walcheren, the siege of Flushing, and the Campaign of 1811 in the Peninsula. ^ When Colonel Perceval was in the regiment, the Sligo Militia wore a red iiiiiform. 54 HISTORY OF SLIGO. In 1837 the representation of the Borough was warmly contested, Mr. John Martin being supported by the moderate Liberals and by the Conservatives. On the declaration of the poll on Thursday, the 3rd August, John Patrick Somers was returned by 262 votes to 208. During the registry of voters' claims, prior to this election, before the Kevising Barrister (Hartstonge Robinson), a radical applicant was asked by Counsellor Casserly for his title-deed, when the Precursor, with an air of gravity and self-confidence, handed over to the learned counsel a huge bludgeon which he held in his hand, at the same time exclaiming, amidst the general laughter of a crowded Court, " Here is my title-deed." On the 9th July, 1841, John Patrick Somers was, without opposition, again returned member for the borough; politics ran high ; the Repeal movement was then in full swing ; and on the 4th May, 1843, O'Connell held a mass meeting in Sligo ; in the evening he was entertained at a dinner in the Hibernian Hotel, and on both occasions he delivered a characteristic speech. Amongst a variety of other topics he stated that England had tried to ignore the agitation until " a chap of the name of Lane- Fox — a poor man who had more strength than brains; a Fox by name but not by nature, for there was no cunning in him — came out with his notice of motion to have it suppressed. . .. . Oh ! was it not worth while struggling for Repeal to gag a fellow of that kind." At a meeting of the Repeal Association held in Dublin on the 24th November, 1845, O'Connell read a communication from the " Repeal " members of the Town Council of Sligo, by which they pledged " themselves, one and all, on good faith and honour, that in future every question arising in the Corporation and Borough should be determined on and acted on by the decision of the majority of the Repealers without any reference to, or deriving any assistance from, the Non-Repeal or Tory party." On the 4th August, 1847, John Patrick Somers was again returned as member for the borough, but in 1848 he was un- seated on petition ; and in April there was a new election, his POLITICAL HISTORY OF SLIGO. 55 oi^ponent being Charles Townlej, of Townlej, County of Lan- caster — a gentleman reputed to be very wealthy. Townley was supported by the priests, and is reputed to have laid out immense sums of money. " If he buys men from the priests, he may sell them to the minister if he chooses," was about the wittiest thing said against him. Townley was returned by a majority of seven votes, but he was unseated on petition. In the evidence given before a Committee of the House of Commons, a Mr. Cant- well, Mr. Townley's agent, stated that he took up his quarters at the hotel in Sligo, having left his lodgings on account of their filthy condition : the house was one of the dirtiest in the town, and there were fleas in it. " I dare say if the fleas had been unanimous they would have pulled you out of bed," face- tiously observed the cross-examining counsel. " Well, they might have done that," retorted Mr. Cautwell. This retort was pro- bably suggested by the anecdote told of Currau, who used to declare that if a house was infested with fleas they always flew to his bedchamber, when they heard he was to sleep there ! and once, when making complaint to his landlady in the morning, he exclaimed, "By heaven. Madam, they were in such num- bers, and seized upon my carcase with so much ferocity, that if they had been unanimous, and all pulled one way, they must have dragged me out of bed entirely." In the new election on the loth July, 1848, John Patrick Somers was returned at the head of the poll, with 102 votes ; James Hartley, 90 ; John Ball, 87 ; the constituency at this period numbered 292. At the dissolution of 1852 the conflict between Somers and Townley was renewed, much, it was alleged, having been effected in the interval to make the return of the latter secure ; after a bitter contest Townley was declared on the 15th July to have obtained a majority at the poll, i. e. 147 votes to Somers's 108. The latter again petitioned, and upon proof of corruption still stronger than before, Townley was again unseated. Sligo had now long been viewed as a sink of poli- tical corruption, and as notoriously " one of the most rotten boroughs in Ireland"; the cant term for bribery was to *' strengthen the electors." 56 HISTORY OF SLIGO. In this contest the friars of Sligo were supporters of, and canvassers for, Somers ; whilst the priests were supporters of, and canvassers for, Townley : when therefore the latter was unseated for bribery, great was the rejoicing of the friars, and many- poetic ( ? ) pieces appeared in print. One sung to the air of " The Green Immortal Shamrock " commenced thus : — " Through Erin's Isle to sport awhile, As Charles Townley wandered," &c. Then followed several verses ; and one of them, after describing some quarrelling over the spoils, continues thus : — " Then Father * ^ ^ cries, ' Come, boys, come ; Your quarrels, I'll decide them ; Secure the Tin, and out, or in. The proceeds we'll divide them.' " On the 7th July, 1853, there was a fresh election. The con- stituency is said to have then numbered 336, but the real total fell somewhat short of that figure. Somers was opposed by the afterwards notorious John Sadleir, who had failed in being returned for Carlow. Sadleir polled 152 votes to Somers's 142 ; the latter petitioned, but was unsuccessful. On the IStb February, 1856, the dead body of John Sadleir was found on Hampstead Heath, and it was stated that he had committed suicide ; at the same time, however, stories were afloat asserting that it was not his body that was discovered, but that he had fled the country in order to escape his very serious liabilities which were subsequently discovered to be something enormous, and the available assets to be of comparatively microscopic proportions. In the Borough, some of his own political party were thoroughly disgusted with Somers, who had come to look on the seat to be as much his private property as had the Wynne family in former years. The Conservatives put forward the lit. Hon. John Wynne (Under-Secretary during the Yice- royalty of the Earl of Eglinton), and a subscription was raised to bring in their candidate " free of cost to himself." As regards POLITICAL HISTORY OF SLIGO. 57 bribery tbis was one of tbe few pure contests in Sligo ; "Wynne from principle would not spend money, wbilst Somers had not any to dispense. Before going to tbe poll Somers is alleged to have made several overtures to gentlemen of Liberal opinions, stating tbat be would retire on " getting a gratuity " ; tliat be had expended about £1000 on tbe Borough, and that be should be recouped. One of the would-be candidates, on having this explained to him, refused the offer with indignation, and with truth exclaimed, " This is a standing thing in the Borough, and you will never have peace or comfort until it is rooted out." At the election on the 7th March, 1856, John Patrick Somers was declared duly elected by 150 votes to 144; but on petition tbe seat was given to Mr. Wynne, be having had in reality a majority of 30. Probably, nothing in the annals of electioneer- in < 3 Birthplace. Total. Province of Connaught. U *" "o "o Great Britain. • 1 ji 1 i Seal of the Corpora- tne letters a.r., i.e. Anne Kegma, and the date tionofsiigo of 1709. 1709. Underneath appear the letters p.i.b., i.e. Provost James Bennett, who died that year (see fig. 14) . The next seal, that of 1723 (see fig. 15), deserves special notice as it would seem to have been struck to commemorate the event of the Wynne family becoming Patrons of the Borough. On it the same arms appear, but more rudely sculptured, and above are the letters p.m.k. i.e. Provost Mitchelburn Knox, with the date 1723. Around is the legend borough of sligoe, and en- circling this are thirteen groups of dual letters, which represent the initials of the Provost and 12 burgesses of the Corporation : — [^To face page 120. Fig. 13.^Goi,i) Chain and Pendant pertaining to the Mayoralty of THE BoROL'GH OF Sl.IGO. (i6"byi3" — scale, about one-fourth real size.) HISTORY OF THE BOROUGH TO THE PRESENT TIME. 121 M.K., Mitchelburn Knox; g.o., George Ormsby; i.i., John Jameson ; o. w., Owen Wynne; i.w., John Wynne; i. f., John ffolliott; w. o., William Ormsby; r. g., Eiehard Gore; a. g., Arthur Gore; w. s., William Smith; t. i., Thomas Jennings^ I. B., John Booth; o. w., Owen Wynne, Junior. Fig. 15. — Seal of the Corporation of Sligo, 1723. (Full size.) The last time this seal was used would seem to be the 9tli September, 1774. To inhabitants of Sligo accustomed to the present armorial bearings of the Corporation, it may seem like heresy to throw even a doubt on the legend which narrates how a hare, intuitively divining that Drumcliff was doomed to decadence, set out one fine morning from that ancient town to take up its quarters in Sligo, Fig. i5. — Newspaper device, used as a seal in the Corporation books of Sligo. (Full size.) but was overtaken by Nemesis. Being in a hurry, the hare trod accidentally on an open oyster; the bivalve resented the intrusion, 122 HISTORY OF SLIGO. and at once closed on the liind foot of poor puss. The pictures of the incident, however differ in details, for in the earlier represen- tation, the hare is passing a kind of semicircle of stones, and on an old map of Sligo made in 1766, there is depicted, on the space marked as representing the lane near the present Presby- terian Church, a singular group marked " Sligo Stones"; in the applotment book of 1783 they are again mentioned, "Back-lane up to Sligo Stones." As time advanced the stones turn into oyster shells, the green sward into a strand, then comes a stream in the foreground, and finally a square fortalice. The compara- tively new device first appears on the 28th January, 1775 (see fig. 16), and any one who carefully examines the Corporation books can perceive that from that date up to the 5th September, 1783, this so-called seal is merely the ornamental device that had originally headed the local newspaper, from which it was cut off and then wafered on to the leaf of the Corporation book, the printing on the reverse being distinctly observable. In 1778 the Fig. 17. — Newspaper device used as a seal by the Corporation of Sligo. (Full size.) Fig. 18. — Small seal used by the Corporation of Sligo, i8c6-i8io. (Full size.) same seal occurs, but minus the outer rim (see fig. 17). On the 29th September, 1783, the newspaper heading ceased to be used, and the seal — simply a copy of the newspaper device — was struck and used by the Corporation until the Borough Improve- ment Bill of 1869. A seal bearing the same device, but of considerably less size, was used contemporaneously, i.e. from 1806 to 1810 (see fig. 18). The seal at present in use (see fig. 19) cannot be admired for either its artistic or heraldic arrangement. On it is depicted a hare, apparently escaping from a round-tower which is repre- HISTORY OF THE BOROUGH TO THE PRESENT TIME. 123 sented as Laving a door level with the ground. The tower has increased in size ; the tree has grown higher and stronger ; the animal alone has deteriorated. The augmentation, i.e. inscription Fig. 19. — Seal at present used by the Corporation of Sligo. (Full size.) '* Sligo Borough Improvement Act, 1869, is in smaller type than, and is placed within, the old legend. On the frontal page of this book may be observed the arms of Sligo, as depicted in an engraving which was attached to the books of the old library of Sligo ; the edifice seen in the distance was evidently intended to represent the Castle of Sligo. The origin of the present seal is as follows : — On the 2nd January, 1871, it was resolved by the Council " that the Finance and Works Committee be directed to procui-e a seal and lever for the Corporation, not capable of being opened save by three keys, and that when procured, one key shall remain in possession of the Mayor, a second key in possession of tlie ex-Mayor, and the third in possession of the town clerk for the time being — for use as ordered by the Coimcil from time to time."^ On the 3rd April of same year a resolution was passed discontinuing the use of the seal adopted in 1783. The seal (see fig. 20) formerly in use by the Town and Har- bour Commissioners represented the old bridge of Sligo, which spanned the river close to the site of the present Victoria Bridge. 1 The first and second keys are now in possession of the Mayor for the time beins. 124 HISTORY OF SLIGO. •' The Bridge of Sligo " is mentioned in the Four Masters so early as 1188, but it is unlikely that much, if any, of the original structure remained in 1800 or 1803 — the date of the formation of the body to which this seal belonged. It is to be noticed that the entrance to the bridge, to the left of the engraving, is overbuilt with houses ; and in a report of the year 1827 it is stated that " the east end of the old bridge had been greatly narrowed and the passage into tlie adjoining streets confined — in such a Fig. 20. — First Seal of the Town and Harbour Commissioners. (Full size.) way as to make it dangerous for two carriages to pass each other — by houses built on the bridge, and close to the end of it." In the distance is evidently the old Abbey with the western face of the edifice represented as if perfect ; close to the fore- ground there is a small boat. Around runs the legend, corpo- RATION FOR IMPROVING THE TOWN AND HARBOUR OF SLIGO ^, again encircled with what appears to be a chain of lilies, bearing a strong resemblance to the ornamentation on the Collooney medal, and which therefore seems to point to Brush as having been the designer. The seal now used by the Harbour Commissioners (see fig. 21) was struck in 1869, at the time of the reconstruction of that body, and is stated to have been designed and executed by Woodhouse. In the distance is seen Knocknarea and the HISTORY OF THE BOROUGH TO THE PRESENT TIME. 125 Tireragh mountains, with Oyster Island and its two lighthouses ; in the middle distance is a steamer, and in the foreground the Fig. 21. — Seal now in use by the Harbour Commissioners. (Full size.) Blackroek lighthouse ; around is the inscription, sligo harbour COMMISSIONERS, 1869. These dies — with the exception of the one struck in 1709, which was intended for pressing on wax, and those struck in 1869 and 1871, which form embossed impressions — were made so as to imprint the device on the paper after having been held over smoke from the flame of a candle — a style of stamp which may even yet be seen occasionally. CHAPTER XXI. CHURCHES, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, AND INSTITUTIONS OF SLIGO. HE beauty of the environs of Sligo is very striking, but the town itself lies in a hollow, through wliich glides the river tliat leaves Lough Gill as a broad stream, and so continues, until it reaches Buckley's Ford ; from thence it narrows and becomes more rapid, falling some 20 feet between that spot and the tide-way. The river divides the town into two unequal parts, that on the southern bank beiug the more considerable. The best point for observation is the Grreen Fort, from whence a pano- ramic view, not alone of the town, but of its surroundings, is obtainable. The glacis around the old entrenchment is smooth as in days of yore, when it was styled Rath-da-hrittog, or Britton's Fort, or when in after years it was in the possession of Sir Teigue O'Eegan. The ground slopes down in an uninterrupted lawn-like declivity, whicli on three sides is terminated by ever-encroaching buildings, whilst northward it joins the open country. Close at hand are situated the Workhouse and the Lunatic Asylum, backed by the heights of Killogaboy, Coj)e's Mountain, and the Ben Bulben range ; in the dim distance the outline of the Donegal Highlands appears over Knocklane, Eaughly, and Rosses Point ; below are seen the channel, inner bay, and harbour. To the west and south, Knocknarea and the Tireragh range close in the view ; at foot, the entire town of Sligo lies spread out. Its large public buildings — the Town Hall, Railway Terminus, Cathedral, Presbytery, Col- legiate Buildings, Friary, Courthouse, and Calry Church rise prominent from amongst the monotonous mass of slated houses. To the south-east and east are the heights of Cairns and \_To face page 126. :•: O I ^ CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 127 Belvoir, with the Slieve-da-en and Slish range in the back- ground ; in the foreground the river may be observed issuing from the lake, glimpses of which are visible amidst its wood- clad shores, whilst beyond can be seen the distant Leitrim Mountains. Beside us are the Infirmary and Fever Hospital ; and on the opposite bank of the river, the Gaol. A bird's-eye view of the town, as seen from the tower of Calry Church, is given in the Frontispiece. Sligo, in olden days, did not present an imposing appear- ance. With the exception of the ruins of tlie Abbey, St. John's Church, and some quaint old houses which stand in and near it, the town may be said to have been but an agglomeration of thatched dwellings. A good idea of the general aspect of the town in 1818, as viewed from the sea, is conveyed by the illus- tration (fig. 22] reproduced from an engraving of that date. The houses were, in general, but one or two storeys in height, the windows small, the streets narrow and tortuous, being only intended for foot passengers and pack animals. Merchandize was then transported exclusively on the backs of horses or donkeys (for almost every leading tlioroughfare has been widened within living memory). To add to the general inconvenience of passers-by, the small dealers displayed their goods in stalls alongside the streets, whilst pedlars moved about everywhere essaying to dispose of their wares. The drainage was carried off by surface gutters, which did not add to the salubrity of the atmosphere, though they were in some instances flushed by small rivulets. In 1802 Sligo was described as consisting of about seven or eight streets " composed of tolerably decent houses, some very good." Tlie town was considered " rather unclean and un- healthy," but it was "of no small importance in the general export and import trade." Frazer, writing of Sligo at a later period, states, that " the streets in the older parts of the town were narrow, dirty, ill-paved, and badly suited to the bustle of an export trade ; it had nevertheless much more the appearance of a business place than any other town in Connaught, a cir- cumstance wholly owing to the spirit and enterprise of its 128 HISTORY OF SLIGO. traders." On this point Inglis, in the year 1834, remarked that the town had the look of a place of some consequence. The retail trade was very extensive, and without a due consideration of its geographical situation one might feel surprise at the very extensive warehouses ; but the neighbourhood was populous, -and there was no town of any note westward, nearer than Ballina ; eastward, nearer than Enniskillen ; northward, nearer than Ballyshannon, and southward, nearer than Boyle. The Abbey has been already fully described, but the illus- tration (fig. 23) may be of interest ; it is from a photograph of the building taken before the carrying out of the restorations' lately undertaken b}'" the Hon. Evelyn Ashley. On the 27th September, 1883, a letter was received by the Corporation from him, as well as one from the Secretary of the Board of Works, desiring to have the abbey placed under the provisions of the *' Ancient Monuments Protection Act ; " but although the Cor- poration wished to obtain for it all the benefits of this Act, they would not close it against interments, and thus rendered restoration impossible. A Mayor of Sligo stated that, previous to the opening of the public cemetery, the abbey ground was in even a worse state than it is at present. " With my own eyes," said he, " I saw in it human skulls to the number of some 600 or 800 piled up in one place." This was no new state of things, for Beranger, who visited the abbey in the 18th century, greatly admired its architecture, but noticed the disgraceful state of neglect in which the burial-place was left, the altar being covered with bones, skulls, &c., in such quantities that they would have furnished " a cargo for a small vessel." In later times, in one locality on the western littoral, it is asserted as a positive fact by the country people, that the captain of a small trading vessel, one moonlight night, had all the bones lying about a church near which his ship was anchored, and which amounted to several tons, carried on board, and at once sailed ' There is one rather mythical benefactor of the monastery — Pierce O'Timony, who is by various writers alleged to have restored or endowed the establishment. As a small return for his munificence the monks erected a statue to his memory, which De Burgo states he saw in the cloisters. \jTo face page 129,. CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 129 for England, and sold them to be ground up for bone manure. The Irish branch of the Order of St. Dominic and its patrons, in the 13th century, appear to have cherished a pecu- liar veneration for the cross, most of their convents founded during that period being dedicated to the " Holy Cross." The Sligo cloisters afforded accommodation for twenty friars ; there were also study and lecture halls, to which the youth of the surrounding country flocked, and in which the novices of the order and candidates for the priesthood were instructed in theology. The gardens of the abbey extended to the water's edge ; the building itself and its inmates were subjected to many vicissitudes from the period of the accession of Elizabeth to the close of the revolution of 1688 ; it was not, however, until 1698 that the friars were expelled from its walls ; ' they soon after returned to the abbey, repaired the chancel roof, and built temporary shelter near the rood-screen. Despite the presence of the members of the Dominican Order, the fabric of the old abbey was not secure from the attacks of Vandal speculators, who proceeded to utilize it as a quarry. The chief offender in regard to these dilapidations was a mer- chant named Corkran, by whom "The Mall" at the river-side was built, and after whom it was named. Father Laurence Connellan succeeded at last in arresting his destructive hand. According to a MS. on this subject the spoliation did not bring good luck to its author, as Mr. Corkran's ultimate fate was rather peculiar. He was wealthy, proud, and pompous ; one night, ' Father Patrick M'Donogh, who was thus forced to leave Sligo, has left a long description of the goods and chattels then belonging to the Convent. By this it appears that in former years Father Theodoras Conel had left a sum of £300 for the use of the friars, settled in trust on Mr. Nicholas French of Abbert, in the County Gal way, and with it he purchased land. In the reign of James II., £50 of the principal was spent in repairing parts of the fabric, but "sence y" hcate of y' warrs of Ireland" the friars "did nott receive a peny" of their rents, whilst one of their trustees "Mr. Coll. Keogh" appropriated to his own use part of the trust money — in fact the friars lost everything save "their chalices and ornaments." The only remains of ancient silver now in the Friary are four chalices, bearing the dates 1636, 1716, 1718, and 1732. K 130 HISTORY OF SLIGO. having accompanied his wife to the theatre, the lady's anger l)ecame in some way excited to such a degree that she lifted her hand and struck him in the face publicly. As soon as possible Mr. Corkran vindicated his outraged dignity by selling off his property, absconding to America, and deserting the lady who had so deeply offended him. It was in 1760 that the before-mentioned Father Laurence Connellan, who had been for some time Regiits Primarhis of studies in the Irish Dominican College of Louvain, returned to Sligo, and saw the necessity of vacating the crumbling abbey and securing a more suitable situation ; in 1783 he obtained a lease from Mr. James Hart of " all that and those the upper floor of a house on the east side of High-street," to which place he removed. The Friary of the Order of St. Dominic was built in 1803 by Father Thomas Brennan, and was placed under the superintendence of a prior and two clergymen. The present Church of Holy Cross (commonly known as the Friary Church) is in High-street, and was erected about the year 1846, from the design of the late Sir John Benson. It was consecrated on the Feast of the Epiphany in 1848, but the belfry was not completed until 1859 (fig. 24). Un- fortunately the building is so closed in by the neighbouring shops and houses that no good view can be obtained of its proportions. It consists of a tower, porch, nave, and chancel. The tower is a handsome structure of limestone, having two buttresses in each face, at the angles. The east doorway in the tower has a low ope, with slender shafts in recesses in the jambs, sui'mounted by elaborately cut mouldings in the pointed circle. The two-light windows of the nave are lancet-headed. The east window in the chancel is a five-light window, the head of which is filled with elaborate tracery, and it contains fine stained glass. The roof nearly resembles, in some of its featm-es, that of Westminster Hall. It consists of a large main arch, with smaller arches, principal rafters, purhns, hammer-beams, curved sheets, and wall-pieces, and inside it has \To face page 130. Fig. 24. — The Fuiauy of the Order of Sr. Domixic, Sligo. CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC, 131 wrought timber sheeting. The wall-pieces spring from corbels having angels' heads carved on them. The Cathedral (fig. 25) was erected by the Roman Catholics of Sligo, who had long felt that a large building for purposes of public worship was a desideratum. On Sunday, 25th July, 1874, it was consecrated in presence of Cardinal CuUen and most of the Roman Catholic Bishops of Ireland, as also some from England and America, together with n, number of clergy of lower degree. The chief entrance door is under the tower, and on each side of the tower of the Cathedral are two turrets, througli which run circular stone staircases. By this means entrance can be obtained to the galleries. These galleries are within the arches, and open on the nave in a series of half circles, producing a very good effect. The style of the building is a kind of com- bination of the Norman and Byzantine. The tower rises in the front-centre of the main gable. The principal entrance is within a noble arch, from which the tower rises, and it is surmounted by a series of alto-relievo figures in carved stone. The extreme length of the sacred edifice is 227 feet ; the width across the transept is 115 feet ; the nave is 33 feet wide, and the aisles 17 feet each. The height of the ceiling from the rich encaustic tile pavement is 62 feet. The aisles are divided from the nave by bays of bold arches sustained on finely-chiselled columns of black limestone, as also are the transepts and side- chapels. The galleries — or to give them their architectural term, the triforium — extend over each aisle, and 18 pillars on each side run up from ground floor to roof, those pillars dividing the nave from the aisle. The front of the high altar is divided into compartments by capitalled pillars of porphyry. In each of the three compart- ments are figures and emblems carved in Parian marble in full relief. The altar slab is also of white marble, moulded at the edges. At either side of the altar are four pillars of polished Aberdeen granite, hooped with gold, with elaborately carved foliated capitals. These pillars sustain a Baldichin dome of K2 132 HISTORY OF SLIGO. brass, in the form of spreading palm leaves. The tabernacle, reredos, and sanctuary railings are made to correspond. An organ loft is erected immediately over the front entrance. There are numerous stained glass windows, through which a dim and softened liglit enters. The smaller windows are of ordinary stained glass, with simple ecclesiastical designs, but all tlie larger ones are devoted to special religious subjects. The nave is lighted by ten windows (five on each side), filled with cathedral-tinted glass. In the tower, and at extreme heights opposite the high altar, are also some windows of a similar kind, but darker in the tints. It is computed that the cathedral holds 4000 people seated, and that it cost upwards of £50,000. In March, 1877, a peal of nine bells, the largest of which weighs twenty-six cwt., was presented by Peter O'Connor, of Sligo, and hung in the tower. The carillon machine, which is self-acting, is barrel-shaped, and by its workings no less than forty-five tunes can be played. There are seven barrels, of which three are for sacred, and four for secular music. The vestry adjoining the cathedral is built in corresponding style. Members of the St. Vincent de Paul Society here hold their weekly conference ; their labours are of benefit to the deserving poor of the town. It is curious that neither the Friary Church nor the Cathedral are built in accordance with the ancient and Catholic practice of " Orientation." The building of churches, with the chancel on the east, seems to have arisen from the desire that the congregation during prayer should face in that direction. Tertullian (c. 205), refers to the suspicions entertained by the heathen that Christians were sun-worshippers " because they were well known to turn to the east in prayer." The "Apostolic Constitutions," Clement of Alexandria, Basil, Augustine, and John of Damascus, all witness to this being the ordinary position for public prayer. Clement, of Alexandria, gives the mystical reason that the east is the image of the day of birth. Chrysostom finds in the practice a reference to Christ as " The Day-spring from on [^Toface page 132. CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 133 High," " tlie Light of the World." Again, we are thus looking out for our Lord's return, wlio, " as He appeared in the East, and thence ascended into heaven, so will He appear again at the last day." It is, however, to be noticed that the symbolical idea at the root of the practice is not peculiar to Christianity, but is common to nearly all religions ; for, as the sun rises in the east, that point is naturally suggestive of the origin of life and light. There is abundant evidence that from very early times churches were generally placed thus, but many exceptions may be found. Socrates says of the church at Antioch, " it had its position inverted, for its altar looks not towards the east, but towards the west." The " Apostolic Constitutions " enjoin — " And first let the house be oblong, turned towards the east, the postophoria (vestries) on either side towards the east." The College of the Immaculate Conception in Quay- street, with a Preparatory School attached, was opened in 1880, chiefly for the education and training of ecclesiastical students. There is accommodation for about 50 resident students and about 150 day pupils. The building cost about £5000, A new College was found to be necessary to meet the increasing demands for admission of students, who will be pre- pared for the several professions, commercial pursuits, and public examinations. It is on a commanding position, above the presbytery, overlooking the town. The buildings cost upwards of £15,000. The Catholic Literary Society in Temple-street was started in 1880. The course of instruction given in the evening classes is suited for shop-assistants, mechanics, and trade- apprentices. The Sisters of Mercy (St. Patrick's) first settled in Sligo June 30th, 1846. This new branch of the Institute was estab- lished in a small private residence in George's-street, pending the erection of their present spacious convent. The first works in which the sisters engaged were visiting 134 HISTORY OF SLTGO. aiKl caring the sick ; distributing daily alms to the famine- stricken sufferers of the years 1846-1847 ; and training orphan girls for domestic service. In these works of mercy they received kind co-operation and substantial aid from all classes and denominations. Later on, the Sisters were invited to attend upon the sufferers in the fever and cholera hospitals, where welcome and assistance were given them by the physicians then in attendance on the plague-stricken. When their new Convent was completed the sisters opened public schools on September 24th, 1849, and from that date the several works undertaken began to develop gradually. One wing of the new building was devoted to a Training School for teachers, an orphanage, and a class in training for domestic service. In 1871 an Industrial School was opened, and the Cathedral being then completed, the old parish church and grounds were handed over to be appropriated to the orphans. St. Laurence's Industrial School, under the Act (31 Vict. c. 25), had, in 1888, 152 inmates; the total cost of main- tenance and management was £2439 8s. 7d., together with £285 15s. 2d. for rent and interest. The actual industrial profit was £367 14s. \d., the net cost per head being £15 10s. 2d. In 1876 a handsome chapel was added to the west end of the Convent building. In 1880 the Sisters removed the extern schools to more spacious premises on the opposite side of the road. In the same year they built a bakery for the purpose of training their intern pupils and servants to that useful branch of domestic economy. A sewing school for extern girls was also set on foot. They are here taught various kinds of plain and fancy needlework, &c. In 1884 a large new public laundry was built on the Convent premises. In 1888 the accommodation being found insufficient, large new schools were erected. In 1890 the charge of the Albert-road Male Inf ant- School was handed over to the Sisters. The " Kindergarten System " has been adopted of late in the Infant-Schools, and is found attractive to the little children. Over 800 pupils now attend the extern schools, and 200 interns of all classes are under the constant care of the Sisters. CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 135 The Ursuline Convent of St. Josepli, Finisklin-road, was built and occupied in 1850. The object of the foundation was the education of young girls of various ranks of society. There is a gratuitous school for the poorer class, supported by private contributions, also a day-school for children of the town, and a boarding-school for those who can afford to pay. The buildings cover a great extent of ground, and comprise dormitories, study, class-rooms, library, and chapel. The Parish Church of St. John's was built in the form of a Celtic cross, the eastern limb being finished with a poly- gonal apse ; the ceiling, doubtless, was in the shape of a rather flattened dome ; the windows were topped with a semicircular arch, and a round arch led into the chancel. This can now be seen above the ceiling of the present chancel ; the old chancel was much shorter than the present one, and was lighted by windows, one in each side of the apse; the whole church was built of stone, quite unchiselled, and the roof rested on the walls, as in an ordinary dwelling-house. This edifice was almost entirely the work of a Mr. Castels who erected it on the site of the prior structure circa 1730. Pococke, in his tour in Ireland, in 1752, thus describes St. John's : — " The Church is the design of Mr. Castels ; it is in the form of a cross, with galleries at every end, except the east. The roof is a curious piece of work." It is stated that Castels (a German by birth) was at the com- mencement of the eighteenth century the leading architect in Ireland. He built Leinster House, in Dublin ; Carton ; the Eotunda ; the Dining-hall in T. C. D. ; in fact, he had more or less to do with all the great buildings erected from 1725 to 1751 : he also designed Hazlewood House ; but the Church of St. John appears to have been almost the only one remodelled by him. Pococke states that it was the finest he met with in his tour. In 1773, a second row of galleries was erected for accommodation of the Charter-school children ; but the church underwent no important change until the year 1812, when it was decided to transform it into a Grothic edifice. The windows 136 HISTORY OF SLIGO. were taken out and rebuilt, as they now appear ; the polygonal apse was demolislied, and the present chancel built in its place, though, strangely enough, it was, till lately, only used as a vestry-room. The repairing and enlargement of the fabric of St. John's, in 1812, cost the then enormous amount of £5059 6s. lid , toward which the Board of First Fruits granted a loan of £1500. In 1883 £1000 was spent in converting the vestry-room into a chancel, and in erecting a vestry-room and organ-chamber ; ^ while these works were being carried on, the foundations of the polygonal apse which formed the original chancel were laid bare. Most of the church furniture is new, but some of the communion-plate bears the date 1722. A handsome stained-glass memorial representing " The Ascension " has been placed by the present rector in the east window, in memory of his mother ; another window is dedi- cated to the memory of the late Mrs. L'Estrange, of Kevinsfort, by her many friends in the town and county. A handsome pulpit, formed of Caen-stone and marble — the carving excep- tionally good — together with a memorial-brass, has been erected in memory of the late rector (the Rev. E. Day) by his widow : a prayer-desk to correspond bears the inscription : — " To the glory of God, and in loving memory of Christopher Carleton L'Estrange and Charlotte Annie L'Estrange, erected by their cliildi-en, 1890." The soil of the churchyard presents some peculiarities. There is little doubt that bodies buried in it do not decay in the ordinary manner, and adipocere in large quantities has often been noticed when the ground was opened for fresh interments. Adipocere is a soft, unctuous, or waxy substance, of a light -brown colour, into which the fat and muscular fibre of bodies are converted by burial in soil of peculiar nature ; and this fact demonstrates that the earth possesses certain qualities which, combined with moisture, bring about the result. 1 St. John's, it is stated, was the first religious edifice in Sligo which could boast of an organ. This instrument is reputed to have been taken from the wreck of one of the galleons of the Spanish Armada. CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 137 It is alleged that, by reason perhaps of cliemieals in the soil, yews will not grow in the chiirch3''ard except in freshly- imported earth, that few, if any, worms burrow in the ground, and that rats do not frequent the place. Like most churchyards in the country, there are few tombs of any antiquity remaining, that of Sir Roger Jones being the oldest. One in- scription records the death of a man " who deceased being aged 120 years," and here and there the beholder is startled by sight of the word " executed," in bold lettering ; but it relates, not to the manner of death of the occupant of the tomb, but to the self -advertising of the sculptor. A very common 18th century marine inscription, somewhat similar to that in the churchyard at Ballysadare, may be seen on the slab over the last restiug- place of Captain James Hamilton, who died in 1766 : — " Tho' Boreas' blasts and Neptune's waves Have toss'd me to and fro, In spite of both, by God's Decree, I harbour here below : And tho' at anchor here I lie With many of our Fleet, I must one Day set sail again Our Saviour Christ to meet." William Draper, of Sligo, who is buried in the churchyard of St. John's, in his will, dated December 3rd, 1719, ordered his executors and their representatives for ever to " pay unto three Protestant maid-servants of the Church of England as by law established, tliat shall live three years a-piece in their ser- vice in good repute and without spot or blemish, the sum of £6 sterling to each of them as portion at the end of their said three years' service, and continue for ever to the like Protestant maid- servants, to be paid them by the like payment at the end of their said three years' service, such Protestant maid-servants to be avouched by their masters and mistresses before the minister of the Parish of St. John's aforesaid, and of my under-named executors." This bequest is still regularly administered, the qualification being residence within the Union of St. John's. 138 HISTORY OF SLIGO. It may be well to give a list of the rectors of St. John's/ as far as can be ascertained : — "William Newport, 1635; William Rycroft, 1641; Cleremont Panham, D.D., 1666; John Wilkinson, 1681; Coote Ormsby (pre- viously Chaplain to the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland), 1681; John Pountancen, 1694; Eubule Ormsby, 1730; Manly Gore, 1771; WenslyBond, 1776; Charles Hamilton, 1822; Edward Day, 1846; A. M. Kearney, 1876, Archdeacon of Elphin, present rector. The old parish church had to provide accommodation for the parishioners of St. John's, and those of Calry, Killas- pugbrone, and Killmacowen — the Union of these parishes was created about the year 1681, and afterwards broken up again. First Calry was detached, then Killaspugbrone was formed into the parish of Knocknarea. Calry Church (fig. 26) was completed in the year 1824 at a cost of £3000. On March 1st, 1817, the vestry of the Union of St. John's received a letter from the Bishop of Elphin, recom- mending the erection of a chapel of ease for the Union, owing to the increase of the Protestant population. This idea, after some debate, was ultimately adopted. The Board of First Fruits gave a free grant of £900 towards the expense of building the church and purchasing a site for it, and a glebe-house. The stone of which the church is built was quarried on the ground ; and this fact, to some extent, may explain the small cost of the erection of this edifice as compared with that of the alterations made in St. John's. Calry Church is a plain Grothic building, with a tower and spire; it was consecrated in June, 1824.^ ^ The curates of St John's were: — Edward Nicholson, circa 1700 ; John Palmer, 1761 to 1766; James Armstronge, 1771 to 1800; Edward Coates, 1801 ; H. Hunt, 1820; W. C. Armstronge, 1821 ; Hugh I.Hamilton, 1828 ; Hugh Murray and Gr. Crozier, 1830; J. E. Green, 1835; Gr. Montgomery, 1840; Knox Roman and Andrew Robinson, 1841; Samuel Shone, 1847; Oliver J. Tibeaudo, 1856; Morgan W. Jellett ; John Dowden, 1864; W. A. Day, 1867 ; A. M. Kearney, 1868 ; J. A. French, 1877 ; Frederick Hamilton, 1880 ; Henry Mills, 1882; C. W. Darling, 1886. One of the curates of St. John's became a Koman Catholic Priest, and by a strange coincidence one of the former curates of the Roman Catholic Cathedral became a Protestant. * To all Persons to whom these presents shall come greeting — Know ye \To face page 138. CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIOxVS, ETC. 139 The following year a bell was placed in tlie steeple. The cliurch, when roofed in, did not seem to offer sufficient accom- modation, and therefore an addition to the interior arrange- ments was made by the erection of a gallery, of which the extra cost was defrayed by disposal of the pews to subscribers for that purpose. Until the disestablishment of the Irish Church, the minister of Calry held the position of " Incumbent to the perpetual Cure or Chapelry of Calry." The first appointment made was the Rev. William Armstrong, who during 18 years ofiiciated in that church until his death on the 29th March, 1840, at the age of 46. To perpetuate the memory of one who had been so eminently useful in his clerical capacity, and so universally beloved by a large circle of friends, a meeting was held in the Vestry-room of St. John's Church on the 7th of April following, John Wynne, Esq., in the chair, when it was resolved : — " Tluit a, subscription bu opened, in the first place, to erect a simple Tablet to the memory of the late Rev. William Armstrong, in the Church of Calry, commemorative of his active, zealous, and constant exertions in that parish, for a number of years, and in the discharge of which he ultimately fell a sacrifice. "Secondly, that the surplus be appropriated for the purpose of educating two children at the school of ' The Sons of the Clergy,' belonging to such clergymen resident in the County of Sligo, as may be approved by a committee hereafter to be named ; and that it be a request of the subscribers, to the widow of their late minister, to allow that tve John, hy dii me permission Biship of JElphin, on the thirteenth day of June in the year of our Lord one thousand eiglit hundred and twenty- four, at the request of the Incumbent of the Union of St. John's, Sfigo, aud the minister of the perpetual cure of Calry (being a member of said Union) together with the Churchwardens and Protestant Parishioners of the Union of >St. John's aforesaid, in the Coimtyof Sligo and our Diocese of Elphin, did consecrate in due form the Church of Calry Parish, by the name of Calry Church. In Testimony whereof we have caused our Episcopal seal to be hereunto affixed this thirteenth day of June, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and twenty-four. CuAULEs Smith, Reyistrur. [Episcopal O Seal.] 140 HISTORY OF SLIGO. her sons to bo first put in nomination. That the Pund bear the name of ' The Armstrong Fund foe assisting in the Education of Sons of THE Clergy in the County of Sligo.' " In pursuance of the above resolution a body of twelve trustees was formed by whom the fund was to be administered. A trust deed was duly executed, and contributions were freely given for the objects of the trust. The first trustees were : — The Bishop of Elphin ; E.J.Cooper, M.P.; James Wood; Rev. George Trulock ; Jemmett Duke ; Richard Gethin ; Sir R. Gore-Booth, Bart. ; John Wynne ; C. K. O'Hara ; Rev. C. Hamilton ; Major Parke ; William C. Wood. The last-named acted as treasurer and secretary for several years, and by his exertions up to the date of his death in 1856 the prosperity of the fund was mainly established. Sufficient money having been received, the trustees, after erection of a memorial tablet in Calry Church, invested the balance in the purchase of tithes and in other securities, from which an income is derived for the education of such sons of the clergy as are eligible for the benefits of the trust. The Rev. James Gully, Rector of St. Peter's, Athlone, undertook the charge of the fund on the death of W. 0. Wood, and by him the finances were collected and disbursed, until failing liealth compelled him to resign the task. He was succeeded by the Rev. Thomas Heany, Incumbent of Calry, who after two years of management gave up the secretaryship, which was then handed over to the Rev. Canon F. Flood, by whom, since 1885, the trust has been and is still administered. By this fund about twenty sons of the clergy have been assisted in their education ; some of them are now in the ministry of the Church, and others are filling impor- tant positions in life; at present two sons of clergymen, who belong to the county, are deriving benefit from its annual grant. The amount of interest which of late years has been available is somewhat under £60, derived from nine holders of rent- charges, by whom yearly or half-yearly payments are punc- tually made. Any clergyman who is either a native of the county, or, who has served within its boundary, may, on the occurrence of a vacancy, apply for aid in educating his sons. CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 141 According to the rules, no boy is eligible who is under eleven, and none is retained on the list after having reached eighteen years of age. The Rev. W. Armstrong was succeeded in Calry by the Rev. Andrew Gillmor, D.D., who remained until the year 1856, when he was promoted to the parish of Killenvoy ; the Rev. Samuel Shone succeeded him and held the parish until 1866; he had been previously curate in Rathlin Island from 1843 to 1846, and curate to St. John's, Sligo, from 1847 to 1856. He was pro- moted from Calry to the parish of Urney, in the County Cavan, in 1878 was appointed Ai'chdeacon of Kilmore, which position he held, together with the Rectory of Cavan, until the year 1884, when he was consecrated Lord Bishop of Kilmore, Elphin, and Ardagh. He had been distinguished as a Hebrew Prize- man in his University career. From 1867 to 1871 the Rev. John Dowden was incumbent of Calry. He had been Curate of St. John's, Sligo, from 1864 to that year, and was subsequently Curate of St. Stephen's, Dublin, from 1871 to 1874 ; Chaplain to the Lord Lieutenant, 1870-1874 ; Pantonian Professor of Theology, and Bell Lecturer in Edinburgh Theological College, 1874-1887 ; Canon of Edin- burgh Cathedral, 1880-1887; Donnellan Lecturer, T. C. D., 1884, and consecrated Bishop of Edinburgh 1886. He was succeeded in Calry by the Rev. Robert M' Walter till 1876 ; the Rev. Matthew Magill was then appointed ; he survived but a short time, and after his death the Rev. Thomas Heany became incumbent in 1877. Mr. Heany had been curate of Clontibret 1869-1870; Enniscorthy, 1870-1873; Trinity Church, Dublin, 1873-1876 ; subsequently English Chaplain at Calais, 1887, and is now Rector of St. Stephen's Churcli, Hull. In 1887 the Rev. J. Fleetwood Berry, B.D., was appointed incumbent ; he had been curate of Christ Church, Kingstown, 1881-1883 ; Diocesan Curate to the Bishop of Meath (Lord Plunket), 1883-1884; senior curate of St. Matthias's Church, Dublin, 1884-1887, and is now Rector of St. Nicholas's, Gal way. The Rev. Llewelyn Paul T. Ledoux, appointed October, 142 HlS'l'OKY OF SLIGO. 1890, is the present rector. He had a distinguished collegiate career: Trinifij College, Dnhlin—H.K. Honours (Eespondent) . Divinifi/ School — Archhisliop King's Prize ; Downes' Prize for Essay ; Downes' Prize for Extempore Speaking ; 1st Class Divinity Testimonium (with 1st place Junior and Senior Exam.). Prizes for Ecclesiastical History, Sermon. Theo- loijkal Society — President's (Regius Professor) Prize for Essay ; 1st Oratory (Medal); 1st Essay (Medal). M. A.— (Presented with address and fees for, by Lord Primate and members of Armagli Clerical Union). In 1881 he was ordained Deacon; Priest, 1882; 1881, Curate Portadown (Diocese Armagh) ; 1 883, Rector, Kilmore ; 1888, Curate, Bray (Diocese Dublin) ; 1888, Incumbent, Kil- linchy (Diocese Down). A portion of the town of Sligo is included within Calry, the river separating it from St. John's parish. Some of the public institutions, the three Banks, the County Infirmary, the Fever Hospital, the Military Barracks, the Workhouse, and the District Lunatic Asylum, are situated in Calry. The incumbent is also chaplain of the troops, of the workhouse, and of the asylum. The parish extends along the northern shore of Lough Gill and joins the parishes of Drumahaire, Lurganboy, Drum- cliff, and Rosses Point. There are two Sunday-schools — one held on Sunday morning at Calry school-house, with one hun- dred and eighty children in attendance, the other, in the after- noon, at Ballinorley, with thirty-three children. There are three daily schools — all being under the National Board : (1) The Model School, (2) Calry National School ; (3) Ballinorley National School. The two latter are under the patronage and management of the incumbent. Knocknarea Church, near Strandhill. — Despite the re- stricted area left to the Union of St. John's by detaching Calry, it was found necessary still further to curtail it, and the parish of Killaspugbrone was formed into a separate district. The idea of erecting a church in the vicinity of Strandhill appears to have been first mooted in 1835, but nothing was CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 143 effected until 1840, when the project was taken up by Messrs. Phibbs, Walker, and "Wood. Funds were collected for the building, and also for permanent endowment of the new parish, but it was three years before the picturesque little church (St. Anne's) was completed, as shown by the inscription over the entrance-door : — In Honorem B. Ann^ Deo. 0. M. dedicata CERA PRivATORUM coLLATO CEDiFiCATA, A.D. 1843. The interior is striking, the general appearance being enhanced by several windows of stained glass ; the glebe-house, however, was not erected until 1877. Although under the control of the Synod of the Church of Ireland, yet the appointment to the parish is vested in trustees. The income is small, about £140 a year, derived from a lay rent-charge, payable out of the parish of Kilshalvey, union of Boyle, and from other sources. The incumbents were ; Eev. James Gully, 1842; Rev. John W. Chambers, 1861: Eev. Charles Hans Hamilton, 1864 ; Rev. William A. Day, 1867; Rev. Isaac Coulter, 1877; Rev. F. T. Hamilton, 1882 ; Rev. John Galbraith, 1884 — present incumbent. In 1811 the old church of Killaspugbrone was repaired by the vestry of St. John's, and in 1814 the graveyard was enclosed with a wall. The expense of erecting the neighbouring Roman Catholic chapel was in great part defrayed by a church rate, for at an adjourned vestry meeting of the Union of St. John's, held 29th May, 1832, it was resolved— "That although at the Vestry it cannot be legally imposed as a parish rate, yet that it is recommended to the several cess-payers of the Union to contribute at the rate of twopence per acre on the land, and one halfpenny per pound sterling on the value of the houses in Sligo, as a sum of money to be applied in assisting the expense of rebuilding the Roman Catholic chapel of Wrensborough, in the parish of Killaspugbrone, and the churchwardens are hereby requested to direct the collector to receive a separate collection accordingly, to be appropriated by them for such purpose. " Chaeles Hamiltox, Rector. " Jonx Martin, Churchwarden.''^ The Presbyterian Church is first mentioned in a MS. in Dublin Castle, entitled " The Civil Establishment of the 144 HISTORY OF SLIGO. Commonwealth for Ireland, 1G55," where amongst the allow- ances granted to ministers, there is one of £100 per annum to John "Wilkinson, for Sligo, which was then included in the ecclesiastical " Precinct of Galvvay." The first Presbyterian minister of whom there is anything very definite known, was the Rev. Samuel Henry, who came from the Presbytery of Edinburgh in October, 1694, and in May, 1695, was ordained to the joint cliarge of " Sligo and Moywater," i.e. Ballina. In July, 1698, " Moy water " was separated from Sligo, which then became a distinct congrega- tion under his charge. He resigned in 1728. The next minister of whom there exists any record was the Rev. L. Asli (son of Capt. Ash, one of the defenders of Derry), who had received his college education in Edinburgh. The Presbytery of Letterkenny, which in 1717 was put in charge of the district, ordained him to the pastoral charge of the Sligo congregation in 1732. He died in 1742, and was succeeded by the Rev. H. Nesbitt, ordained by the Presbytery of Letterkenny, May 3, 1756. In 1760 Ballymote was joined to Sligo. The Rev. H. Nesbitt died in 1778 ; his successor was the Rev. Joseph King, ordained by the Presbytery of Clogher, August 4, 1784 ; he resigned the charge, and was succeeded the same year by the Rev. Booth Caldwell, who died October 24th, 1810. The Rev. Jacob Scott was ordained to the joint charge of Sligo and Bally- mote, March 19th, 1811. In 1823 the Sligo congregation became a separate charge, their first minister being the Rev. James Heron, ordained March, 1824. Mr. Heron becoming infirm, the Rev. Moffatt Jackson was appointed as his assistant. Mr. Heron died at Rosses Point, July 28, 1860, and was succeeded by Mr. Jackson, who had been educated at the old Academical Institution, Belfast. He was one of the first batch of students who received the degree of M.A. in connexion with the Uueen's University. The energy displayed by the young minister was rewarded by the gradual growth of the congre- gation, alike in number and influence. It shortly began to show signs of increased vitality, and the history of the church CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 145 has been one of progress and usefulness. He also established a mission-station at Drum. He died November 17th, 1887, and was succeeded by the present minister, the Rev. F. 0. Watters, M.A., inducted from the congregation of Kilrea, and installed in the charge of the Sligo congregation. May, 1888. The present Presbyterian place of worship in Church-lane» was, according to the inscription over the door, erected in the year 1828 ; and in 1833 a sum of £100 to aid in clearing off the debt due on it was voted by the Vestry of St. John's. The Manse, situated near the Presbytery and the new College, was built in 1867; the sexton's residence and a commodious lecture- hall in 1883. In the townland of Clogher (half barony of Coolavin) there is a small Presbyterian Church, Manse, and School, which were erected some forty years ago. There is a somewhat similar settlement near Ballymote ; and in 1833 the congregation was enabled to improve their place of w^orship by means of a grant from the Emlaghfad Vestry. The Congkegational or Independent Church is men- tioned during the time of the Commonwealth, when it is alleged that a Puritan or Independent Minister resided for some years in Sligo, and preached in St. John's Church, but was " silenced upon the Restoration in 1660." His following must have either dispersed or been merged in the Irish Church, for the sect remained without visible existence till the year 1773 or 1780, when Andrew Maiben (a Scotch merchant engaged in the linen trade) settled in Sligo, and commenced a regular " Sabbath-day" service. Maiben was a Presbyterian, but on account of the then minister of his denomination holding and preaching doctrines of which he did not approve, he (Maiben) commenced a daily prayer meeting. Through this means a young man named Albert Blest was con- verted, and became an earnest supporter of and worker with Mr. Maiben, and these two alternately addressed the meeting. Thus was commenced the Independent Congrega- tion in Sligo, although neither of its founders held the views which are generally associated with the name Independent. L 146 HISTORY OF SLIGO. The movement grew, and a minister being required, twenty- one probationers in connexion with the Synod of Ulster preached on trial without being accepted. Application was made to the " Seceders " for "supplies," and the Eev. J. Gibson was at length elected pastor. Mr. Gibson, however, did not remain long. Ministerial help was then sought from the Countess of Huntingdon in England, and from the Haldanes in Scotland. In 1791 a chapel was built, the undertaking being aided by Lady Huntingdon ; it was styled " Union Chapel," and it seated about four hundred people. The first regularly appointed pastor was the Eev. Claudius Morrison, who was installed in 1800 or 1801 ; he continued his labours until his death in 1811. The next minister would appear to have been the after- wards well-known Dr. William Urwick, an Englishman, styled " the Little G-iant," on account of his small stature but great abilities. His ministration in Sligo commenced June, 1816 ; he, however, had some experience of Irish missionary work through a previous visit to Sligo. A short sketch of the journey from his native place gives an insight into the times. He had to be ferried across the Menai Strait, " and from Holyhead a sailing packet, sloop, or lugger, giv- ing but scant accommodation, made the passage to Dublin, sometimes in seven hours, sometimes in from three to seven days. It was at that time a two days' journey across a bleak and boggy country " from Dublin to Sligo. Changed times ! "We may now dine in London, and on the following day in Sligo. Dr. Urwick appears to have been an indefatigable worker, and he largely increased the number of his congregation. At the close of the year 1824 he took part in the "Easky Dis- cussion." The priest of Easky had challenged to a public debate, in presence of his congregation, two Scripture-readers who had formerly been Eoman Catholics, and who were then travelling through his district. At an early hour the chapel was filled with a large concourse of people. The chairman sat before the altar ; reporters took down verbatim all that was said, CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 147 together with quotations read ; each speaker stood on the steps of the High Altar when he addressed the meeting. On behalf of the Protestants were Dr. Urwiek and the Scripture- readers Messrs. Jordan and Murray. On the side of the Roman Catholics the Rev. Messrs. Devine, Hughes, and Lyons. One on either side spoke alternately. The discussion lasted only two days, the parish priest then insisting that the debate should be concluded. The shorthand notes relating to this discussion were published. Dr. Urwiek remained in Sligo till the year 1827, when he received " a call " to the Congregational Church in York-street, Dublin, where he passed the remainder of his active ministerial life. For about six months after Dr. Urwick's departure, the Rev. S. Biuks, of Bristol, carried on the ministration, and his successor seems to have been a Mr. Carlile. In 1831, the Rev. E. H. Nolan was appointed minister, and in 1885 was succeeded by the Rev. Noble Shepperd. It was during the ministration of the latter that the present handsome church, schools, and manse were erected in Stephen-street at a cost of £3000, the money having been collected principally in England. The ceremony of laying the foundation stone took place on the 3rd April, 1850, and the church was opened for divine worship on 15th August of the following year. Prior to 1846 Mr. Shepperd had started a school that was transformed, during the famine, into a ragged school, in which the children were supplied with food. When the period of distress was over it reverted to its original use, but was closed when the Model School was established. Mr. Shepperd died in August, 1875, and was succeeded by the Rev. James Sterling, who was followed in 1885 by the present minister, Rev. H. E. Bennett, B.A. The plot on which the church and other buildings stand has been lately purchased, and is now the property of the congregation. Of Methodism — the exact date, and the means by which it was introduced into Sligo, are not recorded. It is probable that in 1757 some person connected with the Society in L2 148 HISTORY OF SLIGO. Drumsna settled in this town and invited to his house the preacher stationed at Castlehar. The minister's name is not mentioned ; but the then Eector of St. John's, the Rev. Eubule OrmsLy, was unwilling to interfere with this pioneer of Methodism. In May, 1758, Wesley paid his first visit to Sligo, riding from Drumsna through Ballymote, Collooney, and Ballysa- dare. The prospect was so encouraging that arrangements were made for regular visits by the minister stationed in Cas- tlehar. On May 16th, 1760, Wesley again visited the town and found the congregation so much increased in number that he saw the need of providing a comfortable place wherein to hold the services ; accordingly a large and commodious apart- ment was procured. In 1775 the first Methodist Chapel was erected in "Bridge-street ;" it was small, and had an exceed- ingly low, thatched roof. By this time, however, the town had become the head of a Circuit, provided with two ministers. On May 20th, 1789, Wesley paid his fourteenth and last visit to Sligo, and was entertained in the barracks by the then Quartermaster of the 1st Dragoons. About this time Gideon Ouseley — " Ireland's most successful evangelist " — settled in the town, and opened a school in the little chapel in " Bridge-street," which was largely attended. He, with other ministers, preached in the open air, more espe- cially on market-days, and as they addressed the people in their native Irish tongue, crowds gathered around, listening eagerly and respectfully. In 1797 Ouseley settled in Bally- mote and delivered many outdoor addresses. In 1802 the old building in Sligo proving insufficient for the congregation, a new and more commodious one was erected in Linenhall-street. Later on, this was superseded by the present church, situated in Wine-street, and which was opened for Divine service on Sunday, 3rd June, 1832. The ministers are itinerant, three years being the longest period they can remain in one place. This, though an excellent system when the body was first organized — -it being then a missionary society, so to speak — is now somewhat out of date. CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 149 Two ministers are generally appointed to a Circuit, which com- prises several congregations ; these are assisted by local preachers, leaders, and class-leaders. From these the "leader's meet- ing " is formed, at which the ministers attend, the presiding clergyman being styled the " superintendent." This board (which is supposed to meet weekly) manages the affairs of the local society, and the " quarterly meeting," composed of the same officials, together with the trustees of chapels, manages the affairs of the Circuit. A number of Circuits form a district ; a " conference " meets annually and is the supreme ecclesiastical court. Sligo is the head of the district, which includes nine Circuits ; in each of them, one or more ministers are stationed. These Circuits include Castlebar, Ballina, Mohill, Longford, Drumshambo, Boyle, Ballymote, Manorhamilton, and West- port. The Sligo Circuit includes Sligo, Drum, BallinfuU, and Collooney, the work being carried on by two ministers and a staff of local preachers and leaders. The church in the Sligo Circuit is supported by voluntary contributions. In 1889 the Circuit contributed for foreign missions, " Circuit support " and other benevolent purposes, a sum of £643 8s. Id. In 1829 a Wesleyan Methodist chapel was opened in Bal- lymote, the plot of ground being given free of charge by Lord Kirkwall. The Methodist chapel in Collooney was built and opened for service in 1861. It stands upon a small plot that formerly belonged to the Crown, but being sold by public auction was purchased by the Methodist body. The Christian Brethren are represented in Sligo. They have purchased the old " Union Chapel " in *' Back- lane," and it is now designated "The Hall." This sect has numbered amongst its adherents some able men — notably, John Darby ; hence, they are sometimes styled " Darbyites." Most of the leaders of this movement have been Irish. Their numbers are not known, and the Census figures may be mis- leading ; but their total in this county is probably under one hundred. They do not take part in political elections or in municipal matters. 150 history of sligo. The Sligo United Young Men's Christian Associa- tion was formed in 1868, principally through the exertions of the Rev. John Dowden, who was then incumbent of Calry parish. In the beginning, the Association held its meetings in a small room near the "Victoria Bridge," but its progress being very rapid larger accommodation had to be procured, and on May 5th, 1880, an apartment in the Town Hall was hired. About 1884, the Primitive Methodists offered for sale their meeting house in Stephen-street ; it was purchased by a few gentlemen, was fitted up, and styled " The Sligo Protestant Hall." Rooms for their accommodation were then offered to the S. U. Y. M. C. A., at a much lower rent than those occupied by them in the Town Hall. In March, 1885, a branch of the Association transferred their property from the Town Hall to the Protestant Hall. At present there are about 150 members ; the reading-room is well supplied with periodicals, and the leading daily and weekly newspapers ; the library contains nearly 500 volumes. The dissentients to the removal of the Association from the Town Hall started a new society styled "The Sligo Young Men's Christian Association." In 1889 they entertained the idea of holding an Exhibition in the town ; the authorities of the Science and Art Department, South Kensington, consented to send a selection of exhibits, and from that time forward the Exhibition advanced con- siderably beyond the proportions originally contemplated. Promises of loans from local sources poured in, and the greater part of the Town Hall, where the Exhibition was to be held, was beautifully decorated. The opening day was fixed for April 8th ; the Exhibition remained open for eight days, and during that time nearly 6000 people passed through the doors. A branch of the Young Women's Christian Association was started in Sligo in 1884, commencing with about 30 mem- bers and associates ; there are now 80 on the roll, and the attendance averages from 30 to 50 on " class-night," which is once a week. The rooms, large and suitable for their purpose, are open every evening. All these Associations for young men and young women are undenominational. CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 151 The Town Hall is situated in Quay-street. So early as 1825, at a meeting of the gentry of the county, it was resolved that a Company should be raised with a capital of £5000, in shares of £25, for the purpose of erecting a Town Hall and Public Eooms in Sligo, but the project at that time collapsed. The reformed Corporation having no place wherein to meet for transaction of business, Mr. Wynne granted them, during some years, the use of the old town-office free of charge. In 1848, however, he signified his intention in future to charge rent, and they moved elsewhere. At a meeting of the Town Council, on March 21st, 1859, it was resolved to make an application to the Town and Harbour Commissioners, that the Corporation should be accommodated with a room. Matters, however, continued in an unsatisfactory state until March, 1860, when the follow- ing petition was forwarded to the Lord Lieutenant : — To His Excellency the Eight Hoin^oueable the Eael of Caelisle, LoEK Lieutenant- Geneeal and Geneeal Goveexoe of Ieeland. "That Sligo, possessing a population of fifteen thousand, has no Town Hall, Library, or Eeading Eoom, and that the want of a public building for those purposes is much felt by the inhabitants. " That the Town Council of Sligo has only power by the Municipal Eeform Act to strike a rate of threepence in the pound on the annual tenement valuation, and that the small sum so levied, which does not amount to £200 a-year, is scarcely sufficient to pay the necessary officers of the Corporation very small salaries. That it is therefore impossible for the Town Council to raise or levy funds in order to erect a suitable Town Hall, Library, and Reading Room, and believing such a building to be a work of great public utility, and that if erected private individuals would supply books and requisites, they most respectfully pray that your Excellency will recommend the Lords Commissioners of Her Majesty's Treasury to allocate towards this useful and highly desirable object the portion of the public money called the Reproductive Loan Eund, which has been returned from the County of Sligo, the balance of which Memorialists believe amounts to about two thousand pounds. " That in consequence of the very severe and long-continued winter, the high price of food and fuel, and the scarcity of employment, the working class in this district is in much distress ; and as the fund was created by the spontaneous liberality of the people of Great Britain and Ireland to relieve the distress then existing, your Memorialists 152 HISTORY OF SLIGO. venture respectfully to suggest that the present time is a period when the object of the fund could be beneficially carried out in a useful public work which would give considerable employment. " And your Memorialists will ever pray. " Signed on behalf of the Corporation of Sligo, in Council assembled : — " Henry Lyons, Mayor ; [Seal.] " Geo. Whittakee, Town Cleric.'''' In November, 1860, the Lords of tlie Treasury stated that they were : — " Prepared to take into consideration the question of granting money from the Reproductive Loan, on receiving an estimate of the probable cost of the proposed Town Hall, including the furnishing thereof, together with a statement of the amount actually subscribed, on account of such expenses, as their Lordships are of opinion that a fair proportion of the cost should be provided out of funds locally collected, and that as the balance in their hands on account of the fund above referred to is applicable to the entire county, their Lordships do not feel justified in sanctioning the application of the whole of it to any object or objects in the town of Sligo." A Committee was at once formed to solicit voluntary sub- scriptions. At the first meeting a sum of £250 was collected, the estimated cost of the building being £5000. The Grand Jury of the County unanimously recommended the grant, and waived their claim to any portion of the money, whilst the Mayor, in a letter of November 19th, stated " that the Hall will be as available for County purposes as for the Corporation." On the 14th December, the Lords of the Treasury appro- priated the balance of the Reproductive Loan Fund, about £2790, to defray the cost of the proposed buildings, and on the 1st January, 1861, a unanimous vote of thanks was given by the Council to Moses Monds, " as the person who first suggested the idea of applying for and ultimately succeeding in obtaining the balance of the Reproductive Loan Fund." In the survey of the town taken in the year 1662, the site on which the Town Hall now stands is described as "The Castle- quarter, now the New Fort beginning at the bridge, south side \To face page 152. Fig. 27. — The Town Hall, Sligo. CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 153 of the fort." This plot, on which had originally stood the old castle,^ replaced by the " New Fort," was subsequently styled the "Barrack Fort," or the (as time advanced) "old Fort Plot," and thus the place which formerly re-echoed to the clang of war is now devoted to the more peaceful, yet occasionally very militant, debates of the town-councillors. The plot on which the Fort stood was demised to the Crown (by lease, dated November 15, 1700), for 999 years, at the nominal rent of Is. ; it was used for a barrack so late as 1766 ; in 1792, the Board of Ordnance demised the premises to Owen Wynne, by lease, sub- ject to a rent of £18 Irish, but, in 1856 it became by purchase, the absolute property of the Wynne family. There were long negotiations on the subject of the sale between Mr. Wynne and the Corporation. Mr. John Wynne's offer of the plot for £1100 was finally approved of at a meeting held October 26, 1861. The offices of the Harbour Commissioners were to be combined with the municipal offices, the Harbour Commissioners agreeing to pay £50 per annum for the use thereof ; owing, however, to the deficiency of funds necessary to carry on the work, it was finally decided that they should give £500 in cash, and be thus rent free, whilst for the same reason !Mr. Wynne was induced to accept £50 as yearly ground-rent in lieu of the sum of £1100 ; the deed of convej'ance was executed May, 1864, and possession given July 27th of same year, wlien advertisements were at once inserted in the newspapers for plans and specifications for the building. Sir John Benson — a well-known architect, and a native of Sligo, was requested to give his assistance to the Committee appointed by the Corporation for selection, and from amongst a large number of plans that furnished by Mr. Hague was decided upon. On July 28th, 1865, a tender amounting to £5000 was accepted from Messrs. Crowe, Brothers, for the building ; Mr. James Caldwell being aj)pointed clerk of 1 The old castle must have ])ccn an imjiosing structure, for, in Camden's Sritannicu (Gibson's edition, vol. ii., p. 1411), it is stated that from Killy- begs, in the County Donegal, " the remains of Sligah Castle are still visible." 154 HISTORY OF SLIGO. the works. On October 12tli tlie foundation-stone was laid, in presence of a largo concourse of spectators ; underneath the stone, enclosed in a glass jar, were deposited a record of the history of the erection of the building, also a list of the names of the members of the Town Council and Corporation officers, together with a specimen of each coin of the realm. In 1866 rules drawn up for the management of the building were submitted for approval of the Lord Lieutenant, and sanc- tioned by him. Great difficulties were experienced in complet- ing the work, owing to scarcity of funds ; the original contract was greatly exceeded, and though no exact returns are now procurable, it is believed that the total cost, including furnishing and painting, was not short of £10,000. ■ The Clock-tower was subsequently erected by the Harbour Commissioners, the clock itself being presented by a member of the Council. The bell of the Town Hall bears on its exterior the national devices — a harp, crown, and shamrock — together with the inscription in raised letters : — " Presented to his fellow- townsmen, by Charles Anderson, Sligo." There was great delay in allocating a room for the Free Library, but on July 30, 1880, it was at last formally opened, a large room on the ground-floor being appropriated to this object. According to Mr. D. Saultry (the librarian) it contains 1800 volumes ; the average daily attendance is 100 ; it is open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. on weekdays, and from 2 to 7 p.m. on Sundays. The yearly expenditure is £47 per annum. The other rooms are used as: — 1, a Commercial Reading Eoom; 2, the Council Chamber; 3, the Young Men's Christian Association. The rooms in the upper floor are used for the office of the town-clerk ; the mayor's room ; the harbour-office ; also a large assembly room, &c., which can be let for public meetings, concerts, &c. ; the income derived from this source, in some years, amounts to a considerable sum; the Town Hall, however, is itself a dead loss of about £75 a-year. An unsuccessful effort was made in the year 1872 to pur- chase the plot of ground Ij'ing south of the Town Hall, between it and Lower Knox's-street. This open space would have been CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIOISS, ETC. 155 of great benefit ; it might have been utilized as a small recrea- tion ground, and it would have displayed to view the architec- tural beauty of the building which is now almost concealed by the newly-erected warehouse of Messrs. Lyons and Co. The Assize Courts (fig. 28) were erected in 1878-9 at a cost of about £17,000 on the site of the old Courthouse and gaol, portions of which were utilized in the new building, to the value of about £3000. Mr. R. Carroll, F.R.I.B. A., was the archi- tect. The principal entrance from Albert-street is by a large open arcaded porch leading by a short vestibule to the public hall, which forms the principal means of communication with the courts and the several public offices on the ground floor ; the Crown Solicitor's offices are to the left of the entrance, with rooms beyond for prisoners in waiting ; to the right are the rooms for jurors in waiting, and a barrister's consulting room. Adjoining this latter is the court-keeper's house, with accom- modation for the barristers, and having direct access by a private corridor to the two courts. The Crown and Record Courts are behind the central hall, with entrances for the public direct from it ; they are divided by a wide corridor which leads to tlie two judges' rooms beyond, and also gives private access to the courts for barristers, solicitors, and others having business there. Attached to each court are two petty- jury rooms. The Record Court is similar in arrangement to the Crown Court, except as regards the accommodation required in the latter for conducting criminal cases. Both the courts are lighted by windows placed high up in the walls, and they are heated by hot- water pipes. At each end of the central hall there are stone staircases leading to the upper floor, enclosed by stone-pointed arcades which continue round the corridor above. The hall has an open timber hammer-beam roof, and is lighted from above by pointed lights between the rafters. The county surveyor's and grand-jury secretary's offices oj)en off the upper corridor. On the upper floor, at the rear of the courts, is the grand- jury room, with committee and witness rooms adjoining, and with a separate corridor for the public. 156 HISTORY OF SLIGO. The style of architecture adopted is Gothic, freely treated. In the front, towards Albert- street, tlie central feature on the ground floor is an open porch with circular pillars in the centre, and square piers at the angles, carrying three pointed arches ; above these there is a group of seven windows with cusped heads and mullions, the whole finishing with a high pitched gable. The central gable stands out from a high mansard roof here, which is flanked by two circular stone pinnacles or turrets with sunk panels, and finished with conical stone roofs. An impor- tant feature in this front is the octagon ventilating tower, which is about 60 feet high to the roof parapet; it has four storeys, and is covered by a slated roof with two ranges of dormers alter- nating on each of the eight sides, the whole finishing by an iron finial about twelve feet high. The front extends to about one hundred and fifty feet, including the old gaol, which has been newly faced to correspond with the rest. Most of the cut stone used in this building is from the quarries at Mount Charles, near Donegal ; it is a superior stone, and retains its original colour well. Of Gaols in our modern acceptation of the term there were formerly but few in Ireland. In the fourteenth century, when the province of Connaught was one vast shire, under Ei chard de Bermingham as sheriff, it is stated (Patent Eoll, 31st Ed. I. No. 10) that the King possessed no prison in the entire County of Connaught in which prisoners could be securely kept. Until comparatively recent times the castles either of the Anglo-Normans or native Irish chiefs did duty both as prisons and residences, and to the Irish Monasteries there was sometimes a penitential prison attached ; also Crannogs, or Lake Dwellings, were also frequently utilized for a similar purpose. It has been found impossible to identify the locality occupied by the first prison erected in Sligo. At the close of the seven- teenth century, " a prison and session-house " stood between the site of the present Courthouse in Albert-street, and the corner of Castle-street ; in 1766 both these buildings had been \_To face page 156. \,(> In 1880, . . . 140 „ . . 296 j> In 1890, . . . 99 „ . . 296 )> In 1888 the average daily number in the Workhouse was 116 ; the total number of persons in receipt of indoor relief was 995, outdoor 640 ; the indoor maintenance cost £951, outdoor £953 ; the salaries and rations of officers £561 ; all other expenses, £464. Total, £2928. The Dromore West Union consists of seventeen electoral divisions : the area 96,985 acres ; the valuation £36,883, and the population 17,349. The workhouse was, by a sealed order of the Poor Law Commissioners, declared fit for the reception of paupers, and opened 1st May, 1852, when the paupers in the Sligo and Ballina Workhouses, chargeable to the union were 172 HISTORY OF SLIGO. removed to this house, the total number being 170 indoor, and six outdoor. In 1862, . , . Ill indoor, . . . no outdoor, In 1872, . . . 64 „ . . 19 „ In 1882, . . . 101 „ . . 167 „ In 1890, . . . 60 „ . . 233 „ The cost of the building is stated to have been about £4000. The total expenditure of the union for 1889 was about £3944 ; the maintenance of the inmates, £476 ; outdoor relief, £457 ; expenses under Medical Charities Act, £589, the balance being swallowed up in salaries of officials, and other expenses. Artisans' Dw^ellings have been built by the Town Council. The committee appointed by them proposed the erection of sixty houses ; and on the 24th February, 1886, there was a further recommendation from them to purchase the " Cadgers' Field," and to accept Mr. Ashley's offer of the plot for £500. In March a grant of £3000 was received from the Commissioners of Public Works, and possession of the ground was taken 11th August, 1886, On 29th September the plans, as drawn by Mr. W. Cochrane, the Borough Surveyor, were approved of. The contract for making the roads and sewers was given to Mr. George Kerr ; and on 2nd February, 1887, he was declared the contractor for erection of most of the houses ; three additional being built in 1888. On 22nd February, 1888, the site of the Artisans' Dwellings, formerly " The Cadgers' Field," was re-named " Emmet-place." ^ Branch Banks in Sligo are of comparatively recent origin ; although to modern ideas it seems strange that business on any extensive scale could have been carried on without the medium of local banks. Formerly, large sums of money were trans- mitted by bills, and transactions of any great magnitude were negotiated by special messenger. The circulation of small coin was, however, quite as deficient as the means of transferring large amounts ; and, therefore, about the middle of the seven- ^ For Financial statement see Appendix G. [^Toface page 172. Fig. 215. — Token struck by VValtkr Lynch, 1666. (Full size. Fig. 30. — Token struck by John Smith. (Full size.) Fig. 31. — Token struck by Will Hunter. (Full size.) Fig. 32. — Token struck by William Craford. (Full size.) F'g- 3i- — Token struck by Archibold Cuningham. (Full .size. l'''K- 34-— "Money of Necessity." (Half size.) CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 173 teenth century, many persons assumed the privilege of issuing brass or copper tokens, their value varying from one to two pence. Subsequently these tokens were forbidden to be struck without special licence from the Crown. Still, for a time, they supplied a much-needed circulating medium for small purchases. Five specimens of these tokens have been previously de- scribed, but illustrations of fresh examples are given, as they differ somewhat in style. On several of these coins the coat- of-arms of the utterer was stamped, but on others there were trade-marks or appropriate emblems which referred to the name of the merchant or the locality in which he lived. Some further tokens have been discovered, from which it would seem that they had been struck not only in the town of Sligo, but also in country villages : — (1.) WALTEB, LYifCH OF (armorial bearing of Lynch); reverse, sligo MARCHANT. w. L. 1666. {See fig. 29.) (2.) lOHN SMITH IN (a ship in a circle); reverse, sligoe maechaxx. (A heart in a circle). {See fig. 30.) (3.) WILL. HTNTEE OF (a huntei's horn in dotted circle); reverse, SLIGO MAjRCHAjsr. (i. D. and two stars in a dotted circle. {See^^. 31.) (4.) WILLIAM CEAFOED(a harp) ; reverse, of sligoe maech. (w. c. i. d. in dotted circle). {See fig. 32.) (5.) lOHN coNYNGHAME (a bird) ; reverse, meech^ in sligo (a bird). (6.) AECHTBOLD CVNINGHAM (a merchant's mark); reverse, meecht. IN SLIGO. A. c. I. D. 1673. (^ee fig. 33.) (7.) THO. GOODIN MAECHANT (a castle) ; ret^ers^?, OF INESCEONE. 1663. I. D. (8.) HENNEEY DOWDALL. H. D. ; rei;erse, OF COOLLVNY MAEC. 1671. I. D. A curious example of a class of coins designated " Money of Necessity," or " Siege-pieces," was found some years ago at Killaspugbrone. It is an irregular polygon of silver, having 19 dwt. 8 gr. stamped in a circle on the obverse and reverse (fig. 34), and was struck circa 1642. It is one of a series designated " Inchiquin Coins," and represented bs. Specimens are tolerably rare, and vary in price from £2 to £7 12s. 174 HISTORY OF SLIGO. About the year 1672 small change must have been scarce, for shortly after that date a great increase in the number of copper tokens is observable, whilst it would seem that, despite ordinances to the contrarj^, both copper and silver tokens were uttered in Ireland so late as 1727, value for twopence in copper, and fourpence in silver. French and Spanish coins of gold and silver were current, and many such are from time to time discovered in Sligo. Con- temporaneous travellers recount how the precious metals were placed in the scale to determine their value, and allowance made for any deficiency in weight. Specimens of the brass money issued by James II. are fre- quently found in 'the county, usually in or near old buildings ; for the brass half-crowns and some other coins were allowed to circulate for a time, but were quickly reduced to their proper commercial value of about one penny. In the year 1732 the credit of paper-money sustained a severe shock through the failures of some well-known Dublin banks ; therefore a bill was drawn up for relief of all the parties interested in the settlement, and sent over to be confirmed by the Privy Council of England — the bankrupt laws not having been introduced into Ireland. The depreciation of paper caused a demand for silver and copper money, and the market was again flooded with the most curious variety of coin and forge- ries. In 1746 a great quantity of " base Eapparee halfpence" were in circulation throughout the county. It was not till well on in the present century that the currency was remodelled. The new silver coin got rapidly into circulation, superseding Bank of Ireland tokens struck from Spanish dollars, which were called in. Towards the commencement of the century French's Bank (County Gralway) opened a branch in Sligo ; but after a time — it not having succeeded in obtaining free circulation for its notes — the branch was withdrawn, and thus, upon the total collapse of the bank, Sligo escaped becoming involved in the serious losses incurred by many families in every grade of Kfe throughout the counties of Mayo and Galway. A few notes CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 175 of this bank are still preserved in Sligo as curiosities. They are, however, dated from Tuam. There occurred, also, several failures of small banks, by which the trade of Sligo was more or less affected. Amongst them was that of Messrs. M'Creery and Ballantyne, on the subject of which a ballad was written, commencing : — " Kings, princes, and nations in wealth do decliae, And why not M'Creery with sweet Ballantyne." A kind of small paper-money, called a ticket, or I. 0. U., that ranged in nominal amount from threepence to six shillings, was issued by merchants, shopkeepers, and others. This cur- rency, although fictitious and objectionable on many grounds, yet enabled the people to carry on their business. A letter from SHgo, 28th April, 1797, states there were " no guineas in circulation, nothing but bank-notes, which will cause great confusion among the lower class of people." In 1800 "money and paper were equally current." Ac- cording to a report of the " Irish Exchange Committee," which was formed about four years subsequently, there was then no banker in Sligo, either in the town or county. In 1822, owing to the exceptional state of depression both in trade and agricul- ture, it was resolved at a meeting of the principal proprietors of the county that they would accept the notes of respectable private banks of Dublin in payment of their rents. This arrangement could not fail to lead to better prices for agricul- tural produce than the then limited circulation of paper-money would admit of, and also gave an impulse to business. Savings' Banks were established in Ireland in 1810, and the first of which a record has been found was " The Savings' Bank " for the benefit of the working-classes. The yearly accounts were published in the newspapers, and the directors would seem to have been gentlemen of local position. In June, 1823, its state does not appear to have been flourishing, as it was alleged " that the Savings' Bank had not been open for some time. Upon inquiry as to the cause it was stated that there was no fund applicable for the payment of a clerk to keep 176 HISTORY OF SLIGO. the accounts." The bank was, as the following advertisement shows, re-opened shortly afterwards : — '* Slxgo Savings Bank. " The Trustees, Directors, and Managers of the Sligo Savings Bank are requested to meet at the Court House on Monday next, the 4th August, at 3 o'clock, to elect a Treasurer for the ensuing year and to transact other business. By order. S. M'Creery, See. " JV^.JB. The Bank will in future be held in a room adjoining the Excise Office, and will be open as usual from 10 till 12 o'clock on Mondays. Sligo, July 28th, 1823." A few statistics may be of interest : — Tear. 1828, 1829, 1832, 1833, 1845, 1850, 1851, 1852, 1853, Of the amount deposited in ] 829, and therefore, presumably, in succeeding years, £2460 was for the encouragement of industry in the country, whilst "loan funds" seem to have been mixed up in the accounts until the year 1856, shortly after which the postal authorities appear to have taken over the management of the local savings'-bank, so that the earliest returns which could be procured, when compared with some of later date, show a great falling off in regard to the amount to credit of the depositors, as also in the number of the accounts; but this is thought to be illusory. The Provincial Bank, the first Bank of issue established in Sligo, was opened 14th November, 1825, and the temporary business previously conducted in the locality was transferred to a house in Stephen-street, the following gentlemen being appointed local directors ; — 0. "Wynne ; William Faussett, Amount Deposited. . £5,830, No._ of Depositors. Year. 1854, Amount Deposited. £16,848, No._ of Depositors 623 . 8,954, — 1855, 18,341, 646 . 10,028, — 1856, 20,382, 710 . 12,141, — 1869, 5,362, 251 . 28,265, 867 1870, 6,125, 269 . 15,453, 553 1875, 10,595, 504 . 12,859, 486 1880, 16,146, 684 . 13,399, 526 1885, 19,735, 963 . 15,188, 601 1889, 24,575, 1112 CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 177 Provost of Sligo ; David Culbertson ; B. Coyne, M.D., and Andrew Kelly. Most Banks, on first opening branches in country districts, intrusted the launching of the business to people who lived in the district, and vs^ere consequently acquainted with the financial circumstances of those likely to apply for facilities in promoting their undertakings. The notes of the bank were " payable at the house of Messrs. LaTouche & Co., Dublin." A strange incident is related with regard to the first ledgers in the office of this branch; they were all stamped " Newry," having been intended for use in that town. Up to 1820 the Bank of Ireland alone was empowered to issue notes ; however, in that year other banks were permitted within a certain radius of Dublin, but it was not until 1845 that they were allowed to open in the city. The Provincial Bank had unsuccessfully essayed to establish a branch at Newry, so the books were transferred from the North to the West of Ireland. The official opening of the Sligo branch took place on the 20th February, 1826, Mr. David Webster being the first manager. He was succeeded in August, 1838, by Mr. Ben- jamin Banks, who on the occasion of his leaving on promotion was presented with a public address and testimonials. Mr. M'Cullagh was then nominated acting manager until the ap- pointment of Mr. Malcolm Sinclair, who was succeeded in 1847 by Mr. Richard Grordon, and he directed the business of this branch for thirty-six years, dying in 1883. The present manager, Mr. Alexander Maver, was his successor. The Provincial Bank being early in the field, succeeded in obtaining the country business. It is Treasurer for the County, for the Sligo Union, the Infirmary and Fever Hospital, and also for the Corporation. The present handsome edifice occupied by the Bank in Stephen-street was designed by Sir T. N. Deane, and erected at a cost of nearly £6000. It is in the Renaissance style ; the front, which presents a fine appearance, is composed of Mount- Charles stone, the capitals of the pilasters and frieze being N 178 HISTORY OF SLIGO. appropriately carved ; the sides and rear are of Ballysadare limestone, with dressings of Mount-Charles stone. The Agricultural and Commercial Bank opened a branch in the town about the year 1832. In November, 1836, there was a determined run made on it ; tlie branch closed a few days after, was re-opened in January, 1837, and on 19th June, 1840, it finally ceased to transact business. The National Bank also opened a branch in Sligo. In November, 1840, there was a run on it which was defeated, but shortly afterwards the branch was withdrawn. The Bank of Ireland (created circa 1783) had a com- plete monopoly of banking business for nearly forty years. According to its charter, no one individual was permitted to possess in it more than £10,000 in shares, and amongst the seven subscribers who alone contributed the maximum amount appears the name of the Bight Hon, Joshua Cooper. The Bank of Ireland first issued " dollars " marked " Bank Token ; " then bank tokens were issued by the Treasury to the Bank of Ireland; they were of silver, value for 5f/., lOcl., and 30f/., to answer as change for £1, twenty-four 10^/. tokens being fractionally less than twenty shillings. The copper coins consisted of pence, half-pence, and farthings, 13c?. being equal to Is. British. It is doubtful if the Bank of Ireland would have established a branch in Sligo had it not been for the energetic position taken up by the Provincial Bank. The following advertisement announced the opening of the branch : — " Bank of Ireland. The undermentioned agents for conducting a branch of the Bank of Ireland in Sligo, will commence business in their office on The Mall, on Monday the 7 th instant for the discounting of Bills and other Banking transactions. " Januanj 3rd, 1828. " Richakd Gethix. Geokge Dodwell." Messrs. Gethin & Dodwell were succeeded in 1834 by Mr. CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 179 John Craig ; in 1837 he was transferred to Cork, and was re- placed by Mr. James Duncan, who being superannuated in 1870, Mr. li. J. Howie J (the present agent) was appointed. The newly-erected Bank and agent's residence stand on the site of the old premises in Stephen-street. The building is classic in design, having Ionic columns and pilasters of polished Aberdeen granite for the two porches, supporting Mount-Charles sandstone frieze, cornice, and balustrade. The dressing to all the upper floor windows, also tlie moulded quoins, and cantaliver eave-course for roof, are of chiselled sandstone, the moulding being of a bold, decided character. The regular face (ashlar work) is of chiselled limestone from Ballysadare. Little or no carving has been introduced except for caps to columns and pilasters. The agent has a commodious residence, quite separate from the banking department. Messrs. Millar & Symes (Architects to the Bank of Ireland) were the designers of the building. The Ulster Bank opened a branch in Sligo, 7th Decem- ber, 1861, under the management of Mr. James Daniel Mitchell, who was succeeded in September, 1863, by Mr. Robert M'Cullagh, and he, in tm-n, was replaced in 1875 by Mr. George Heron, who died April, 1889, since which date the Bank has been under the management of Mr. John C. Quin. The present handsome building was erected in the years 1862-3, at a cost of somewhat over £5000. There is also a branch in Ballymote in charge of Mr. Tew. The handsome banking edifices here described as situate in the town of Sligo, are all in the same street, so that the conun- drum propounded nearly fifty years ago in the pages of The Cryptic, with regard to Stephen-street, is still applicable to the locality, viz. that it resembles a canal because it has a bank on both sides ! In the village of Tubbercurry a branch of the Hibernian Bank has been lately opened. The Police Barracks are now situated on Albert-road and N 2 180 HISTORY OF SLIGO. in Wine-street. On the incorporation of the present police- force in the year 1823, no house in Sligo could be procured suitable for a barrack, and the force seems to have occupied houses in different localities. The ban-ack on the Albert-road was not erected until the year 1847, or the barrack in Wine- street until 1880 ; there are 28 policemen in the former and 11 in the latter. At the close of the last and commencement of the present century law and order were enforced in the county by a "chief constable " in every barony, who had under him eight " sub- constables " (Corran and Coolavin were, however, reckoned for this purpose as one district), or a total of 45 men. In the year 1806, owing to the disturbed state of the county, particularly in the barony of Tireragh, where the burning of crops and stack- yards was an almost nightly occurrence, four additional constables were appointed to each barony or district, making a total of 65. Most of these received pensions on the creation of the present police. In 1888 the police force in the county consisted of a county inspector, 4 district inspectors, 5 head constables, and 252 sergeants and constables — a total of 263 ; this establishment is at the ratio of 23 per 10,000 of the population, which is about the average number, for Limerick heads the list at 39 per 10,000 inhabitants, Londonderry and Antrim having but 10 and 11, respectively. The succession of county inspectors, as far as can be ascertained, was as follows : — Captain Tracy ; Captain Lawson ; J. Stoker ; T. M'Mahon ; A. S. Waters ; M. Bloxham ; T. Koss ; H. A. Allen. Mr. Robert Curtis was one of the first officers of the force appointed to the County Sligo. In after years he published two volumes of his reminiscences, entitled " The Irish Police Officer " and '* Curiosities of Detection." The latter work is dedicated to E. J. Cooper, of Markree. The locus of most of these tales lies in the County Sligo, and they are all founded upon facts that occurred within Mr. Curtis' own knowledge. The question of endeavouring to induce Government to erect, in a central position, a suitable building, in which all the CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 181 public offices in the town of Sligo could be concentrated, is one well worthy of being brought under notice. If the subject were judiciously and energetically followed up, what has been done in other towns of less importance in Ireland might be carried out in Sligo. None of the Governmental departments, Excise, Customs, Post, Income-tax, &c., are sufficiently accom- modated, and most of the offices are situated in private houses, all of them widely apart — a great inconvenience to anyone having business in each. The want of a morgue or dead-house in Sligo has long been a grievance, the publicans naturally disliking to have a corpse carried into their premises, although under legal obligation to permit it. On 5th August, 1885, the Council resolved to erect a place for temporary depositing of the dead, but the resolution not having been acted on, the only place which can be used at present for the purpose is (as authorized by the resolution of the Council, 8th May, 1878) the engine-shed at the Town Hall, or the public-house nearest to where the corpse is found. In January, 1847, the Council decided on the erection of Public Baths and Washhouses ; the resolution, however, was not carried out. Again, in October, 1856, the Act (9 & 10 Vict.) for promoting the voluntary establishment of these useful institutions was adopted, and after inquiry as to the working of the Act in other boroughs, it was determined, in November, 1856, that an application should be made for the loan of £900, for erection of baths in Sligo. This resolution, together with those previously passed, remained a dead letter, though sup- ported by the lively interest taken in the town by Lord Palmerston, who had allocated a plot of ground for the pro- posed purpose. In 1866 Dr. James Tucker was himself so certain of the success of the projected plan, that he started baths on a small scale, but they proved a failure — chiefly owing to the incon- venient situation in which they had been placed. The project was again brought forward in 1867, when a petition was forwvarded to Government, praying for a grant of £2000 for the purpose of carrying out the Sanitary Act, as well as to erect 182 HISTORY OF SLIGO. baths, washhouses, and disinfecting chambers. Nothing, however, has since been done in the matter. In olden days Sligo was better protected against sudden outbreaks of fire than at present. From 1760 to 1874 a fire- engine was kept in a room adjoining the house of the sexton of St. John's Church, and the man in charge was under obligation to play the engine at certain times, on the old bridge, in full view of the public, with the object of demonstrating practically that it was in working order. It was not, however, until 1881, that the Corporation sanctioned the formation of a fire-brigade, to be under their control ; the services of fifty of the inhabitants of Sligo, who volunteered to act without remuneration, were accepted ; and on May 3rd of same year they were granted the use of the town engine, hose, and fire-escape, for the purpose of practice ; £75 was voted to supply the brigade with helmets, axes, and all the usual appliances needful. The fire brigade no longer exists (owing to a disagreement with the Council), and there is no organized mode of extinguishing fires in the town. The County Club, in Wine-street, was started in 1879 ; and the Constitutional Club, in Stephen-street, whicb was founded December, 1881, now numbers about 160 members ; the nume- rous rooms are well-furnished, and the attractions of a daily service of telegrams and a large billiard-room help annually to augment the membersbip. The GrAS Company was established in 1840. In the year 1839 Mr. James Colquhoun, c.e. (formerly of Sheffield), visited Sligo for the purpose of erecting gas-works and lighting the town. With that object he obtained premises in Wine-street, but not being able to procure funds for completing the works he called several public meetings of the inhabitants of Sligo during the years 1839 and 1840 to take into consideration a proposal for forming a Company to carry out and complete the lighting of the town, the capital stock to be £600, divided into £10 shares. The preliminaries were arranged, and the trust deed was signed on May 29th, 1840. The first committee of manage- CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 183 ment were James Madden, Peter O'Connor, Eichard Anderson, William Kernaghan, and Edward Kellj, all of the town of Sligo, James Madden was elected chairman and Peter O'Connor dej^uty-chairman. Mr. Colquhoun agreed to superintend the completion of the gas-works and to conduct the working, as farmer or tenant of the company, for a term of seven years. For a lengthened period the working of the company gave great dissatisfaction to the public, but latterly, under the new management, affairs are better conducted. The Cemetery is now in charge of the Corporation of Sligo. Although from the year 1832 burials within the precincts of the borough had been positively injurious to the public health, yet no steps were taken to provide a suitable locality for the purpose until the famine of 1846 and the pestilence which followed again brought the subject into general notice. A numerous deputation from the town of Sligo, headed by the clergy of all denominations, the Mayor, Corporation, and Town and Harbour Commissioners, oflScers of health, &c., waited on the Grand Jury assembled at summer assizes, 1846, to represent the crowded state of the burial grounds in the town, and the injury arising therefrom to the public health. On December 1st, 1846, the Town Council expressed their willingness " to let a portion of the Commons, /. e. about four Irish acres, for tlie purpose of a cemetery for the public of all denominations," and on January 7th, 1847, " The Widow Tuohy's Field," part of the " Commons Plot," was thus appro- priated, whilst on July 28th of the same year, in compliance with a communication from Government, the deed by which the cemetery was to be constituted was submitted to the clergymen of all denominations. On August 21st, 1848, it was further proposed to make a transfer of the cemetery to the following trustees : — John Wynne, Esq. ; the Protestant and Poman Catholic Rectors ; and clergymen for the time being of all religious denominations ; and on November 25th, 1848, the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury granted permission to set apart three and a-half acres for the purpose. 184 HISTORY OF SLIGO. On May 4th, 1860, a Committee of Inquiry into the working of the cemetery was appointed, and on December 22nd, 1884, the then managing committee handed over their charge to the Sligo Corporation, who accepted it as the urban sanitary authority under the provisions of the Public Health (Ireland) Act of 1878. The Sligo Waterw^orks. — As a general principle the water supply from superficial wells has been abandoned in almost every large town, and all competent authorities who have written on the subject, and whose opinions should bear weight, have decried the system of supplying a town with water from a superficial and therefore easily contaminated source. It was calculated that in 1868 there were sixty-seven sewers in Sligo, emptying into the river above the Victoria bridge ; and if, in the middle of summer, there chanced to be a long con- tinuance of dry weather, there was, according to one authority, not a drop of drinkable water available in the town, and men, with horses, and carts containing barrels, distributed water from door to door, selling it by the gallon, Sligo being built upon the mountain limestone (opened and fissured rock), there can be little doubt that all the wells in the town, judging from the quantity of salt which the analysis displays, communicated more or less with the sea ; they also suffered by infiltrations from the sewers, as evidenced by the quantity of nitrate of ammonia contained in the water : indeed, a great leakage must have taken place from drains, and " to such an extent, that in one well (the Pound- well) the con- stituents of that water were practically the same as you might expect to find in a grave-yard." In August, 1866, the following notice was posted up by order of the Mayor : — " It appears that the worst water in the town is that in old Pound-street ; next to that, the Lungy and Chapel-lane pump. The water in all the other pumps is com- paratively pure, thougli hard ; the railway water and the Path- bra ghan water are bad In the present state of the public health, and when threatened with epidemic disease (cholera). CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 185 the inhabitants should be particularly cautious. It is recom- mended that the water should be boiled before drinking." This notice was occasioned by the analysis made by Dr. Aldridge, of seventeen samples of water submitted to him. Had there been no objection on the ground of organic im- purities and pollutions to the various wells, the extreme hardness of the waters alone was a grave objection to their fitness for general daily use. Water of over twelve degrees of hardness is not considered suitable for domestic purposes, whilst that of the Sligo wells was said to exceed twenty-five ; and it was therefore necessary to introduce into the Borough Improvement Bill a clause authorizing the erection of waterworks. Although in the Act of 40 Geo. III., provision was made for supplying Sligo " with pipe-water, &c.," yet the subsequent Act of 1808 re- pealed these powers. To strengthen their case, the Corporation sent samples from Sligo wells, and also from the proposed new supply, to H.K.B amber, F.C.S., for analysis, and for production before the House of Commons. The substances included by Mr. Bamber in inorganic matter were, carbonate of lime, sulphate of lime, carbonate and sul- phate of magnesia, common salt, &c. ; the substances included in organic and other volatile matter were, vegetable and animal matter, ammonia, and some of the nitrates. The Albert-street and Lungy pumps were pronounced unfit for use, from hardness and organic matter, &c. ; Pound-street pump was recommended to be immediately closed. Greorge's-street pump was as bad, whilst three samples from other wells were not even analyzed, " as their appearance self-condemned them " ; Kilsellagh and Doonally water was stated to be very good. According to the Sligo Borough Improvement Bill of 1869, the Corporation were authorized to borrow £25,000 for the purpose of constructing waterworks ; and on September 1st of that year, were taken the first steps towards raising the money necessary for carrying out the scheme : the eJBPort, however, collapsed, and after a general meeting of the ratepayers had decided against proceeding with the waterworks, the matter although then set aside, was, nevertheless, from time to time, 186 HISTORY OF SLIGO. revived by various engineers who propounded many fantastic ideas with regard to the mode of supplying Sligo with water — such as a deep central well, with engine-power — a supply from Lough Gill by the same means ; and, lastly, windmills to be erected on the summit of Cairns' Hill, in order to force up water from the Lake to a reservoir to be there constructed ! The powers of the Bill of 1869 were allowed to lapse, and in 1876, on a petition being presented to the Local Groverumeut Board, they gave the Corporation a provisional order, but dis- covering that it was ultra vires, they revoked it, and the Council were compelled to procure a short Act of Parliament to revive their powers. Finally, a tender for construction of the reser- voirs, &c., for a sum of £14,000, together with another for iron piping, &c., amounting to about £4000, were accepted in 1881, and Mr. "William Cochrane, C.E., was appointed Eesident Engineer. The first water-rate of Is. in the £ was struck, June 28th, 1882 ; and on November 13th, 1884, the waters were formally turned on from the storage reservoir, after the lapse of eighteen years from the period of the first Parlia- mentary notice of the Borough Improvement Bill (see fig. 35). Fig. 35. — Plan of the Storage Eeservoir. By permission of Mr. Hassard, the Engineer. The original estimate for completion of the works was upwards of £19,000 ; the actual outlay was under £18,000, and to Leslie Creery, C.E., clerk of the works, the best thanks of the Council were voted " for the able way in CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. , 187 which he had superintended the carrying out of the plans." The water supply for the town is taken from a catchment area in the neighbouring- mountainous district, having a mean elevation of 950 feet above the sea and situate between the counties of Leitrim and Sligo. The drainage from this district is carried off by two streams or rivers, the Doonally river, the catchment basin of which is 1315 acres, and the Kilsellagh stream, with an area of 628 acres ; the latter falls into the Doonally river, and both together flowing by Doonally House and Rathbraghan disci large into the sea about a mile north of the town. The total drainage ground, therefore, from which the flow can be utilized is 1910 acres, and taking the average available rainfall in the district as thirty inches, the daily flow off the ground would be 3,637,500 gallons, of which only about 400,000 are daily required for town use, thus leaving the balance to be stored in the reservoir or allowed to run down the stream. On the west side of the reservoir there is a third stream — the Carrowlustia — having a drainage catchment of 350 acres ; as most of this area, however, is of a peaty character, the water from it is not allowed to enter the reservoir, but is diverted and flows round the south side of the reservoir, falling into the Doonally river just below the embankment. The principal works in connexion with the water supply are the (1) iinpouuding or storage reservoir on the Doonally and Kilsellagli streams, with its flood water-course, embank- ment, outlet- tower, waste-weir, &c. ; (2j the piping to the relief tanks and service-reservoir; (3) the service-reservoir and the works of distribution through the town. On the Doonally and Kilsellagh streams the storage reser- voir is constructed a little below their junction by throwing an earthen embankment across the gorge, and the ground was prepared to receive this embankment by stripping off all the soft material from where it was to rest, then sinking a trench to the solid water-tight clay along its centre, and filling it with puddle to the level of tlie ground — a puddle-wall being carried up thence to nearly the summit. Tlie most adhesive material was laid on either side of this puddle wall, and the whole bank 188 HISTORY OF SLIGO. was brought up to its full height in layers about two feet thick. The inner slope (three horizontal to one perpendicular) was pitched with stone laid on edge, and the outer slope (two hori- zontal to one perpendicular) was sodded, and a gravelled foot- way made along the top. In the south-western angle the waste weir, sixty feet long, was built in order to carry off the overflow from the reservoir ; it is coped with ashlar stones cramped together, and over this the water falls into the by wash or channel constructed from the south end of the reservoir to the Doonally stream, and having a pitched invert set on a bed of concrete. Near the inner foot of the embankment stands the outlet-tower, from the bottom of which the supply pipe to the sluice-house, and the emptying pipe, both run through the outlet-culvert. The tower is of masonry about forty-eight feet high, and provided with openings that can be closed by sluice-valves, at three different heights, so that water for the supply may be drawn off from three distinct levels in the reservoir. These sluices, as well as the stop-plugs for closing the supply and the emptying pipes in the bottom are worked from a platform at the summit of the tower ; from the top of the bank this platform is reached by an iron foot-bridge in two spans and having a pier in the centre that is carried down to the solid ground. In connexion with the tower is the outlet-culvert for containing the pipes from the tower, which supply the town and empty the reservoir. This culvert is built in the solid ground below the puddle trench , and it is of masonry in cement mortar, surrounded by concrete on the inner and by puddle on the outer side of the bank, the concrete having at intervals projecting ribs in order to prevent the creep of water along its surface. From the bottom of the tower, through this culvert two lines of pipes, nine inches in diameter, are laid to the sluice-house ; on one of these is a short branch with a valve so that this may discharge into the river if necessary. The flood water-course in the Doonally stream commences about fifty yards above the reservoir, and runs along its northern side. Below this point, a barrier of stone is placed across the bed of CHURCHES, PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, ETC. 189 the river, in order to direct the water from the stream into the water-course, and in the barrier are placed inlet shuttles for ad- mitting or excluding the water from the reservoir. The channel from its commencement to the aqueduct by which it is carried over the Killsellagh stream, has sides of masonry in cement mortar, and bottom-pit cliing set on concrete. The aqueduct is a semicircle of masonry, having parapets that are lined with concrete, in order to make a water-tight channel. The Kilsel- lagh stream (which has also a dam and inlet-sluice, similar to that described) is diverted at a short distance from this aque- duct, and its flood water-course joins the Doonally channel ; thence they both flow in the same course to a point just below the bank, where the channel has an inclination of one in six, and is broken up by cross- walls into a succession of cataracts. These cross-walls are of masonry in cement, and are coped with ashlar-stones, dowelled together with a double row of iron dowels. The water-coui'se for the Carrowlustia stream commences above the reservoir, and is carried along the hill-side to the southern end of the main bank, where it joins the waste water- course from the reservoir. This stream is entirely excluded from the reservoir. From the sluice-house to the relief-tank near Drumkilsellagh Bridge, there is a line of 7-ineh pipes, carrying the supply from the reservoir. The relief-tank is a small basin of masonry situate near the road, and it is walled round. Thence to the service-reservoir on Farrencardy Hill, the water is conveyed in a line of 8-inch pipes, provided with all needful air- valves, &c. This reservoir is a large tank, formed partly by excavation in the solid ground, and partly by embankments ; these are ren- dered water-tight by puddle, and the inside faces are protected by stone-pitching. The water is admitted to the inlet- well by the pipe from the relief-tank, and by the 9-inch outlet pipe to a drain constructed in the pitched-slope of the bank. In the centre of the bottom of the reservoir there is a cleansing pit, and from this a 9-inch stoneware pipe leads to another pit situated at the bottom of the straining-tower ; from this latter 190 HISTORY or SLIGO. is laid a cast-iron cleansing pipe. The straining tower is of masonry, having near the bottom three outlets, in front of which are placed wire-gauze strainers in oak frames ; through these the water is admitted to the interior of the tower ; they can be moved at pleasure, and are counterbalanced by weights that are suspended in the interior of the tower, and are connected with the strainers by chains passing over pulleys hung in the upper part of the walls. From this tower to the sluice-pit — which is a masonry tower built in the centre of the bank of the reser- voir — is placed the sluice on the line of pipes that lead to the town, and which terminates in Stephen-street, opposite New Bridge-street. From this line in which are placed two scouring cocks, the water is distributed through the town in pipes that vary in diameter from eight to three inches, and are provided with street wells, and fire-plugs or hydrants. Sluice- cocks also are placed in the pipes, so that in case repairs should be requi- site, the water may be shut off from the various streets or dis- tricts ; and provision is also made for supplying the town directly from the Doonally Keservoir, in the event of its being for any purpose necessary to empty the Service Reservoir. Within the last five years the waterworks have realized a net profit of nearly £1,500. In May, 1890, the accounts showed a clear profit of £546, so that financially, it is hoped, the enterprise may prove to be eventually a decided success. The actual supply of water is abundant, and would be sufficient to meet the requirements of a town of 50,000 inhabitants.* * The Engineer, 1881, pp. 160-2. CHAPTER XXII. ROADS, STREF.TS, AND COMMUNICATIONS. HE historians of ancient Erin inform us tliat there were roads leading through all the provinces of the kingdom ; yet thick woods extended over vast districts of the country, and in none were they more numerous than in the present County Sligo. Like the Romans, the Anglo-Normans were great road- makers. One of the " Red Earl's " first works in the county was the construction of a road over the Curlew mountains to his newly-erected stronghold at Ballymote, and which is still styled by the country people Bothar-an-Iarla-Ruaidli, or the Red Earl's road. Until comparatively recent times it was the ancient route to Sligo over " the craggy mountain of the Curlews." In many places it can still be traced, and seems to have re- sembled the mule tracks yet to be seen in Spain. It was constructed, most probably, on the ancient trail followed by invaders of Sligo from the direction of Boyle, and where, in the defile of the mountains, a celebrated battle was fought in the year 504. From this date down to even so late as the Revolution of 1688, it was the line on which many important movements of troops took place, and it may be considered one (perhaps the only one) of the really ancient roads through the county. In addition there was the track followed by O'Donnel from Tirconnell, that by which O'Rorke could invade Sligo, and the route from Ballina to Ballysadare. Lithgow, a travelled Scotchman, in his quaint account of journeyings through Ireland in 1619-1620, when describing the general state of the tracks, states they could not be desig- nated roads that he traversed ; and he was of opinion that there were more rivers, lakes, brooks, strands, quagmires, bogs, and 192 HISTORY OF SLIGO. marshes in Ireland than in all Christendom besides ; for tra- velling there in the winter his daily progress was rendered disagreeable through his horse constantly sinking to the girths in the boggy roads, and his saddle and saddle-bags were utterly destroyed. He was often compelled to cross streams by swim- ming his horse ; in five mouths he foundered six horses, and felt himself in the end as worn out as any of his steeds. In a work published so late as 1690, Ireland is described as without roads in many parts ; and numerous districts of Sligo must at the time have come under this description. Till the last quarter of the eighteenth century the Irish bar, when on circuit, travelled on horseback. " The Crown prosecutor, re- joicing in a good jailful ; the leading chiefs, their saddle-bags brimming with record-briefs. The gay and sanguine juniors, reckless and lighthearted, came riding into the town the day before the assizes in as close order as a regiment of cavalry ; holsters in front of their saddles, overcoats strapped in tight rolls behind ; mounted servants following with saddle-bags full of black gowns and law-books; barefooted suttlers tramping behind with stores of wine and groceries ; a mile or two from the town the gentlemen of the Grand Jury came riding out to vociferously welcome the newcomers." In olden times the construction of roads consisted merely in the deposit of a layer of stones of varying sizes and geological formation, according to the district through which they passed. Some of these boulders became disintegrated from the effects of traffic and of the weather, whilst some did not. The jolting sensation experienced by passengers conveyed in the cumbrous early coaches was both disagreeable and fatiguing. It was not until Macadam (in the early part of this century) revo- lutionized the formation of roads by the use of finely-broken stones instead of rough boulders, that the even surface pre- sented by means of this invention enabled carriages to be con- structed in a lighter manner ; for vehicles of the present day would have, quickly gone to pieces on the rough primitive cause- ways. Occasionally spots on the road might be described as simply quagmires. A gentleman once stood gazing at his vehicle KOADS, STREETS, AND COMMUNICATIONS. 198 and wonderiug how he could get it across a difficult spot ; but just then up drove the stage-coach, dashing and splashing, rolling and floundering. Finally it crawled out of this slough of despond, one moving mass of mud, seemingly devoid of shape or form. "Wesley (the founder of Methodism), travelling in Sligo, circa 1777, describes how his post-chaise was held fast in a slough on a road, how he himself was carried over the morass on the shoulders of a stalwart peasant, and the delay and difficulty experienced, until by help of the assembled crowd the coach was at length by sheer brute force hauled to tlie right side of the quagmire. In 1612 it was essayed to call into play parochial organiza- tion for the repair and maintenance of roads, bridges, &c., but the attempt failed ; and this soon became apparent, for we find a more systematic endeavour to regulate the interior communi- cations of the kingdom was made in 16^34, wlien a statute was passed directing that the Justices on circuit should make inquiry respecting broken or ruined bridges, dilapidated roads, &c. ; and the Grand Jury was empowered to tax the inhabitants. These powers were, by degrees, extended and regulated until tliey came to be of a very comprehensive character. The primitive manner of effecting the necessary repairs was by the enforced labour of householders. "He who had a horse was obliged to work six days in the year, himself and horse ; he who had none, was to give six days' labour." This was found to press unduly on the poor, and was changed into a money assessment. In 1836 the road-powers which had been the exclusive prerogative of the Grand Jury were, to a great extent, vested in special sessions of magistrates, associated with a certain number of the highest payers of county cess in each barony. To special sessions all applications respecting works to be undertaken must be now submitted in the first instance ; those passed must be then brought before the Grand Jury, who, by a majority, approve or reject them. Of roads, as we have them now, there were none, and even the central lines of traffic were few and badly kept. Journeys to Dublin and distant parts of the country could only be ]!)4 HISTORY OK SLIGO. accomplished on foot or on horseback ; and travellers took care to start well armed for fear of marauders, who were then desig- nated wood-kerns, rapparees, and tories. In later times the newspapers were full of accounts of these depredators. One example taken from the Dublin Mercury of 22nd November, 1770, will suffice. Information was given to the Bishop of Elphin that a noted robber named James Teige, " was at a shebeen-house near this town, on which he applied to William Casy, Esq., our worthy active magistrate, who went with two of the bishop's servants and took said Teige. He had concealed arms, and had been a terror to this place and the Counties of Leitrim and Sligo for these two years past." Probably one of the first roads made in the county was that leading from Sligo to Boyle.' It ran through the 81ieve-da-en Mountains by a pass to the east of Ballygawlej' Lake, where its track is yet distinctly visible ; thence by Doonamurry, over Rush-hill, and through Riverstown, Castlebaldwin, and the Red Earl's path over the Curlew Mountains. Parts of this road are yet to be seen near Castledargan, in Rusheen, Castlebaldwin, and Doonaveeragh. It would seem to have been roughly paved. In an itinerary made in the year 1777 the road from Sligo to Boyle is shown as following a high level, passing near Oakfield, and debouching on the present line at the village of Ballysadare, from whence it took very much the same direction as the present highway. It is still in use as a by-road. Possibly what is known as the lower road from Sligo to Balliua, along the sea-shore in the barony of Tireragh, occupies ' The description of the more modern roads is mainly furnished by C. B. Jones, M.I.C.E. the present County Sui'veyor, appointed to that office on the death of Mr. St. Leger, who in 183G succeeded Mr. Dubourdieu. Before the creation of this post, the repairs to, and the making of, new roads, or other public works were superintended by gentlemen who resided in the immediate vicinity of the projected work, and who when thus appointed by the Grand Jury were styled "Overseers"; these were the nominal contractors— although the contract was generally sublet — and they were responsible to the Grand Jury for the due performance of the undertaking. There was also a paid " Conservator of the roads " appointed for each barony. ROADS, STREETS, AND COMMUNICATIONS. 195 tlie track of a line as old perhaps as the Boyle road. This " lower road " must, however, have beeu either improved or made at a very early date, as the milestones, many of which are still in existence on it, are of very primitive type.^ The road from Sligo to Ballyshannon probably occupies the track or path by whicli the northern invaders made their incur- sions on Sligo. The old milestones on it are similar to those on the Tireragh line before mentioned. This road, in ancient times, crossed the strand from the Castle of Court to Kintogher, but it was subsequently brought round by Rathcormick, Old Tullyhil], and Shannon. The road passed originally through the village of Carney to the cross-roads at Cashelgari'on, and thence to Grrange ; but about the commencement of the present century this line was altered, and taken from Drumcliff Bridge by Milltown and Mullaghnaneane. There are also in many parts of the county old roads which were evidently laid out at a very early period and with a fine disregard of gradients, as they seemed to pass over the highest and steepest hills that could be found ; possibly many of these liad been early horse- paths, or tracks merely widened and then stoned or paved ; some of them are still in use. When carriages or wheeled vehicles came to be more gene- rally employed, the road to Boyle over the mountains was found to be too steep, and the road from Sligo to Ballydrihed by Cloverhill was made. It would seem to have passed thence through Bally sadare, Colloouey, and Knockbeg old village ; by Heathfield and Earlsfield to Ballymote ; from this it most likely took the old direction by Battlefield over the Curlews to Boyle. Sign-boards bearing peculiar inscriptions invited the wayfarer within the precincts of roadside inns ; one of these, situated in the village of Ballinafad, at the foot of the Curlew Mountains, bore the invitation : — ** Friends, slip in and take a gill, 'Twill serve to help j-ou up the hill." The road from Collooney to Boyle, by Tubberscanavan and ' It is shown on the map of 1778. O 2 1!)6 IITSTORY OF SMOO. Ballinafad, was constructed about the beginning of this century, and from time to time alterations and diversions were made on it with a view of getting better gradients, the principal being the road from Sligo to Ballydrihed by Carrowroe and the Cur- ragli, and a new line over the Curlews. This road (at one time tlie great thoroughfare of the County), is now for a considerable part of its length almost deserted, owing to the traffic being diverted by the railroad. " Everywhere throughout this county," writes Mac Parian in 1802, " the roads and bridges are in a good state, with not very many exceptions. Ten miles of a mail-coach road, very broad and level, and directed towards Boyle so as to avoid hills, are already made ; the remainder of the line to Boyle is presented and paid for. The mail-coach undertakers, after it is finished, will no doubt vie in contracting for keeping horses and every accommodation for running a mail-coach from Dublin to SHgo." Another of the old trunk-lines led from Collooney through Tubbercurry, Banada, and Kilmacteigue, over the mountains to Foxford and Castlebar. This road is still known as the *' Circuit Road," ' from the fact that the judges and members of the bar rode by it from Sligo to Castlebar when going circuit. There are yet some old men living who recollect this, and who saw soldiers, on the march to their quarters at Castlebar, encamp for the night near the village of Aclare. Near Banada, a road branched off to Balliua through " The Gap " by Lough Talt. Of this road, Neligau (1816) in his Statistical Account of Kilmacteiye, relates that " a valuable improvement was made in this place through the exertions of a Captain O'Dowd, who possessed an estate of many thousand acres of these mountains, which were without inhabitants, . . . and which were nearly impassable to the active and barefooted natives. The immense rocks, steep hills, and deep caverns which everywhere presented themselves, formed as many difficulties as the passage of the 1 In the presentment book of the Grand Jury (1805) it is styled the " Grand Circuit Road." The road from Boyle to Ballyshannon through Sligo is also desi^ruated " The Circuit lioad." ROADS, STREETS, AND COMMUNICATIONS. 107 Alps did iu former days. But this Hannibal, by labour and perseverance overcame them all, and has formed a road where a coach can pass conveying passengers" to and from Balliiia and Castlerea. It appears a pity to dispel this romance, but (Jolonel Irwin, in his evidence before a Committee of the House of Commons, specially cites the improvement made in this dis- trict through the exertions of Captain O'Dowd, who induced the Grand Jury of the County to vote the money for the formation of this road over *' The Gap." The story naturally Fig. 36. — Bearnas, or Gap of Lough Talt, as seen from the crannog. calls to mind the burlesque lines reputed to have been once posted up on a public structui-e : — " . . . of his great liberality and bounty Erected this bridge at the expense of the County." Writing, however, so late as 1835, Frazer remarks that this line was " not yet fit for travellers, nor was there an inn or even a stage house from Boyle to Ballina . . . On leaving the glen, the great boggy tract which stretches around the northern base of the Lurgan hills" — so Frazer styles the range of the Ox Mountains — " gradually discloses itself, and as we advance we command the whole plain from Ballina to Sligo, bounded on the north by that great iulet of the ocean which comprehends 198 HISTORY OF SLIGO. the bays of Killala, Sligo, and Donegal ; on the south by the Lurgan hills ; on the west by the wild and lofty moorland ridges of Erris, which connect with the huge domical mountain of Nephin ; and on the east by the fertile and romantic hills, blending with the precipitous cliffs of Ben Bulben." Tlie old road by Banada, and through Kilmacteigue, is still in use, but a new one has been made from Tubbercurry to Ballina by Mullany's Cross ; and those parts of the old road by Lougli Talt, which are still used, have been widened and diverted where necessary in order to avoid hills. ^ An old line went from Ballymote to Tubbercurry, by Oldrock, Buninadden, Roadstown, and Chaffpool ; there was another from Ballymote to Boyle, by Battlefield, over the mountains. These trunk-lines, with many cross-roads con- necting them, are all shown on the map of the county made in 1819 ; the greater number of these are still used and kept in repair. The most important road made in later times is that leading from Sligo to Ballina ; the new portion of this, left the old line at Tanrego, taking a direct course to Dromore West, and thence through the bogs to Ballina : it is about 27 miles in length, and was made about eighty years ago. The old road from Sligo to Ballyfarnon turned off from the Slieve-da-en road to Boyle, in the neighbourhood of Rusheen, and passed down by Eockbrook, St, James's Well, and along the foot of the mountains, through Tullymore to Geevagh, and Foyoges to Ballyfarnon. This road has been now for a long time unused ; the present line was probably made about 1820. An important branch from it was made by Mr. Nimmo at St. James's Well, over the mountains, for the purpose of opening up the coal-fields ; this is now much used for bringing down coal from the pits. ^ The road leading from the main line to the ruins of the Abbey of Kilcumin (parish of Achonry) is called " Stirabout road," probably in allusion to its having been made, remodelled, or repaired, for the purpose of affording employment for the poor. It was so named, however, long prior to the famine of 1846. liOADS, STREETS, AND COMMUNICATTOXS. (00 The old mail-coach road from Sligo to Enniskillen leads tlirough lovely scenery. In 1779 the tourist Beranger thus describes his impression of it : — " All the mountains of Cavan, Monaghan, and Fermanagh, which we thought once high, are nothing in comparison to those we passed this day. We looke