L BANCROFT LIBRARY I RANCH LIFE AND OTHER SKETCHES By Michael Hendrick Fitch Author of "Echoes of the Civil War as I Hear Them" "The Physical Basis of Mind and Morals" "The Chattanooga Campaign" and "Universal Evolution" PUEBLO THE FRANKLIN PRESS COMPANY 1914 777 Copyright. 1914 By MICHAEL H. FITCH u. c. ACADEMY OF PACIFIC COAST HISTORY CONTENTS PUEBLO AND ITS ENVIRONMENTS. Page Colorado in 1870 9 Ranch Life in Colorado 24 Historic Pueblo 88 Pioneers - - - - - - - - - -115 The Old Santa Fe Trail 133 Address to State Realty Association - - - - 135 PATRIOTIC ADDRESSES. George Washington 142 The Battle of Lexington - - - - - -158 Virginia and Massachusetts -178 Our Flag 201 Lincoln-Washington Campfire 206 President McKinley 209 Chattanooga Address, 1907 215 The Basis of Representative Government - - - 245 MISCELLANIES. Our Negro Citizens 260 Address at Clermont Academy in 1887 - 265 Remarks upon James K. Parker and Wife, 1901 - 269 The Sensible Chinese 272 Letter to Twenty-First Wisconsin Regimental Association, 1912 276 The Mocking Bird 281 The Eminent Men of the Past 285 Death and the Soul --- 291 Death 297 A Sixth Sense - - 301 The Nebular Theory 305 The Boomerang Features of War 307 Kepler's Three Laws of Planetary Motion - 308 The Wonderful Capabalities of the Brain - - - 310 Early Advocates of Women's Suffrage - - - 311 PUEBLO AND ITS ENVIRONMENT COLORADO IN 1870 IN the latter part of May, 1870, an American, seeking a more congenial clime and sunnier skies within the confines of his own country, boarded a railway train in Chicago. The blue grass region of Kentucky had been his home for the first nine years of his life; the next fourteen years he spent in a county of Southern Ohio, bor- dering the Ohio river; the last ten in Wisconsin. Four years of the latter period were spent as a Union soldier in the Civil war, and the succeeding three years as a civil officer of the national gov- ernment. His object in taking this train was to visit the territory of Colorado, Denver being his immediate destination. At that time the railroad fare from Chicago to Denver on the Union Pacific was $70. This fact is not interesting except by contrast with the present fare, $22.60 (1914). But during the first eight days of June no rail had reached Denver. The Union Pacific had been built on a parallel one hundred and twenty miles north of Denver through Cheyenne, a road called the Denver Pacific then being built to connect Denver with Cheyenne. The end of this road re- 10 RANCH LIFE mained twenty miles north of Denver when the American came to Colorado, arriving the first week of June, 1870. Stage coaches transported the passengers from the terminus, Hughes, now called Brighton, to Denver, then a town of 4750 inhabitants. The best stopping place proved to be the Broadwell House, at the corner of Larimer and Sixteenth streets. This hotel, a frame house with wide shed roof reaching out to the curb- stone, thus making a porch of the sidewalk, was kept by James M. Broadwell. The site is now oc- cupied by the first Tabor block, a stone structure, the best building when built in the city, but now out of date. On the train spoken of there arrived at the site of Greeley Mr. N. C. Meeker, the founder and president of that colony. Several years later he was appointed agent to the Ute Indians on White river and massacred by those savages. He was a scholarly, mild mannered man. The town of Meeker on White river, named after him, is lo- cated near where the killing occurred. Several passengers disembarked at Greeley with Mr. Meeker. The place was then without houses, only a few tents occupying the site, but there were acres of sage brush and cacti. The colony soon had a ditch, bringing water from the Cache La Poudre river, covering some of the land. The ground absorbed so much of the water the first year that the farmers were complaining and COLORADO IN 1 8 7 11 scrambling for enough to irrigate the first crops. But now, in 1914, they have five or six ditches from the same stream, one above the other, and all have plenty of water. The reason of this difference is that the subsoil has become saturated and the low spots have to be drained. This ex- periment of locating a union colony of farmers at the place where Greeley now stands, has evolved in forty-four years into one of the most fertile and wealthy farming districts in this country. From the cars that now pass through that region the passengers see no wild grass, sage brush, nor cacti, but a garden spot producing fabulously of alfalfa, wheat, potatoes, cabbage, onions and sugar beets. Denver then was a town of scattering houses. The old American House had been built of brick. Former Governor Evans and also Governor Gil- pin were citizens, but Edward M. McCook was the Governor. The Denver News and Tribune were the daily papers, W. N. Byers being the proprietor of the former and Henry C. Brown of the latter. A. Jacobs owned a well equipped line of stages which ran from Denver to Pueblo, each stage drawn by four fine horses, with relay stations lo- cated every fourteen miles. A stage would start in the morning at a certain hour from each end of the line and make the distance, 120 miles, by a certain hour in the evening, the fare $20.00 each way. The route from Denver proceeded via 12 RANCH LIFE Cherry Creek to Franktown (named after Frank M. Gardner, the owner), over the divide about four miles east of Palmer Lake and thence into old Colorado City, thence down the Fountain river to Pueblo. The American's destination was the ranch on the little Fountain, known formerly as the Geiser ranch, three and one-half miles west of the present town of Fountain City. This latter place was then known as Terrellville, there being merely a house and a grout store building. Amos Terrell was the pioneer living in the house. In going from Terrellville to the Geiser ranch the road led over a bluff and high mesa then dropped down into the valley of the Little Fountain. Here a wide bottom very level and in the midst of it the ranch house, stables, corrals and a large meadow of natural blue stem grass greeted the eye. This meadow produced a great quantity of fine hay perhaps a hundred tons each season. Outside the meadow was merely dry prairie. Harvey Ring managed the ranch. He lived roy- ally, drove a fine team of white trotters and en- tertained like a true Colorado ranchman. The American came here as his guest until he could locate his family which was then in the East. Staying there two or three weeks he finally lo- cated on a ranch on the Arkansas River three miles west of Pueblo. The feelings of one making this change from an eastern climate to that of Colorado are those of COLORADO IN 1870 13 contentment and pleasure. The environment dif- fered greatly from that of the Lake region at Chi- cago. The Colorado air is luxuriant. The soil, the vegetation, the fauna, the scenery generally are all entirely different from those of the eastern states. The physical features of the country were those peculiar to a semi-arid region. To one com- ing from the states east of the Mississippi river, Colorado presented in the early 70's and prior to that date, the aspect of an entirely new and un- developed region. The contour of the earth's surface, and the general features were entirely different from that of the humid climate and wooded surface he had left behind. The at- mosphere acted as a tonic upon the newcomer, giving a vivid feeling of a more virile life. The broad, treeless prairies and scant foliage of the region west of the one hundreth meridian of longitude, where Dodge City, Kansas, is now lo- cated, to the foot of the Rocky Mountains, had no parallel east of the Mississippi. The altitude increases rapidly toward the west. Sage brush, soap weed, buffalo, gramma and bunch grasses were everywhere, but not a tree in sight, except the cottonwood and some willows bordering every stream. The absence of any real woods and the scarcity of rainfall marked off the very striking differences between this and a humid climate. The sunshine was comparatively constant and 14 RANCH LIFE seemed to revivify and renew the life that had, in the east, become withered. The rainfall, includ- ing melted snow, averages twelve inches annually. The paucity of the moisture makes possible the nutritious winter feed on the prairies for cattle, horses and sheep, accounts for the clear atmos- phere, so delicious to breathe, the three hundred sunshiny days in the year, and brings the rattle- snake from his prairie dog hole on many a Christ- mas Day. If this correlation of physical conditions thus acts on the cold-blooded reptile, what physio- logical wonders it works upon the warm blooded vertebrate who stands erect, breathes through a pair of weak lungs and lets his whole being re- spond to the life-giving rays of the sun ! Buffalo, antelope, jack rabbits, coyotes and prairie dogs were numerous, but not a deer nor a quail, nor a squirrel was visible east of the foot- hills in Colorado. In the pine woods on the foot- hills called the Divide, were black squirrels, and in the timbered regions of the mountain sides numerous deer, but no quail are found within the confines of the state. But when cattle, horses and sheep were imported, they throve on the open range winter and summer, as well as did the ante- lope and buffalo, without shelter or other feed than the nutritious native grasses. It was a delight to walk through the meadows and get the aroma of the grasses and exquisite flowers. The flowers of Colorado are brighter in COLORADO IN 1 8 7 15 color than those of the eastern states, yet they are not so fragrant. In spots favorable for some moisture, but not too damp, the wild rose grew in profusion. The primrose grows in early spring from the crevices of the shale in the dryest spots. A species of the daisy was numerous. A flower, known most generally as the Indian paint brush, but which might appropriately be called the flame flower, because it is just the color of the flame of a wood fire, was seen occasionally in the cedar brakes and on the higher foot-hills in greater numbers. It is a very striking flower. The sun flower grew wherever the surface was broken. In the high mountain reaches, where the native grasses are most luxuriant, will be found the beautiful Columbines, the Colorado State flower. Wherever they are, will also be the bumble-bee nests. They can be fertilized only by the queen bumble-bee, for only she has a bill long enough to reach the nectar in the bottom of the flower. In doing so, she carries on her body some of the pollen which fertilizes the ovules of the female stocks. The species is thus perpetuated. In June a beautiful bouquet could be made from the flow- ers picked from the prairie. In fact, the botany of Colorado is very curious and interesting. The trees are few in varieties, being confined to the cottonwood along the margins of streams, the scrub cedar on the dry bluffs, and the pinon on the higher foot-hills. In the valleys of the Fountain, 16 RANCH LIFE the Arkansas and the St. Charles the wild plum abounds. The wild grape and hop vine grows in profusion. The willow flourishes in the moister places. The grasses are numerous in variety. The blue stem is the natural meadow grass. The best grazing grass is the gramma and this, when irrigated, makes fine hay. There grows, in the low bottoms, a heavy grass with a large head, which may be called rice grass, which makes fine hay. There is no true buffalo grass around Pueblo. It grows in the eastern border of Colo- rado and in Kansas. A range covered with gramma grass will fatten horses in the spring quicker than will a blue grass pasture in the east. There is also a grass on the prairie which grows in bunches, but it is likely the true bunch grass of Montana does not grow here. The cacti, sage brush and grease wood abound everywhere on the stretches running from the borders of the streams to the foot hills. The cacti bear two col- ors, red and yellow ffowers. The flower is beau- tiful and cattle eagerly eat it. The sage brush produces a mass of seed and after the frost, in the autumn, has worked its magical chemical pro- cesses on both leaf and seed, cattle would, in the early days, grow fat in the winter season on their oily and spicy contents. It would be most interesting to write about the birds of Colorado. The wild goose, the duck, the mountain grouse, the dove, are edible species, COLORADO IN 1870 17 but the magpie, the night and fish hawks, the owl and the buzzard are peculiar. An article could be written upon the wild duck alone. But that must be reserved for another sketch, perhaps in connec- tion with ranch life in Colorado, or fly fishing in the mountain streams. At the ranch on the Little Fountain the Chey- enne Mountains were several miles to the north, yet, on account of the very clear atmosphere, they appeared to be very near. Pike's Peak looked down in magnificent majesty, crowned with his nimbus of snow. One's appetite grows phenome- nally in such an environment, but the table, set with fine home made bread, butter, mutton and ranch vegetables fully satisfied it. Drives to the neighboring ranches revealed a population, though sparse, yet contended, happy and prosperous. Every one had plenty. Stock-raising was the principal occupation. There were some fine farms along the main stream of the Fountain. At the junction of the Little Fountain and the main river, Woodbury & Lincoln had a store and possessed fine meadows. Above these, all the way to Colorado City, were farms and meadows. From there all the way south to Pueblo a great deal of farming was done, corn seeming to be the prin- cipal crop. Dr. Dickinson, Mr. John Irvine, Mr. Robinson, Wm. H. Young, Glaus Wildeboor, Mr. Sutherland and Matthew Steele are those now re- membered as having farms some of them being 18 RANCH LIFE quite extensive. Edward Cozzens lived where Work's Woodcroft Sanitarium now stands. They all had herds of cattle or horses grazing on the open prairie. The main dependence was on stock- raising. The burro, as a burden bearer, called by the pioneer a mountain canary, because of his un- earthly braying, was in strong evidence. The valley of the Fountain has been above described, but here and there throughout Pueblo County, at the head of all the streams and along their borders lived ranchmen. In some instances they farmed the land but stock-raising formed the main business. Captain Craig, Peter Dotson and Judge Fields had large cultivated tracts. George M. Chilcott on the Arkansas River and the Hicklins on the Grenaros had fine ranches. In those days there were no fences of any kind and cattle roamed at will, having access to water anywhere along the streams. In the river bot- toms adjoining Pueblo grew a wild tangle of grape vines, wild plum groves, willows and young cottonwoods. There were no railroads until 1872. The real pioneer, who followed closely the Indian habits, lived in a wicky-up dressed in a Mexican sombrero and a six shooter, fled from the sound of the locomotive whistle in 1872. Also many a well-to-do ranchman, who possessed large herds and cut stacks of native hay, upon the coming of the railroad train, sold his ranch to a tender- foot and drove his herd to new locations beyond COLORADO IN 1870 19 the supposed reach of modern civilization. So it was with many of the early residents in Pueblo. When new faces began to appear in increased numbers and the price of a town lot rose above the value of a horse or a cow they moved to more congenial climes in western Colorado, New Mex- ico and Arizona. The American made his first visit to Pueblo on horseback down this valley of the Fountain, past these ranches located thereon in early June, 1870. The distance from the Geiser ranch is thirty miles. The road, a mere wagon trail, long used, dry and hard, proved to be an uncommonly good one. Low hills on the right, separating the valley from the mesa lands beyond, the river with but little water lined with cottonwood timber and undergrowth, on the left, furnished a perfect line of travel from north to south until the bluffs of the Arkansas River were reached. An occasional ranch adjoined the stream, the cornfields being then in prime growing condition, green and wav- ing. Many natural meadows, cleared of weeds and sage-brush gave evidence that winter feed would be provided for stock. Alfalfa was not at that time cultivated; it subsequently, however, became the chief crop of all ranches. A peculiar feature of early Colorado was the adobe, or sundried brick and the houses built of them. Nothing of the kind could be seen in the eastern states. The heavy annual rainfall there 20 RANCHLIFE prevents the building of such houses. The eastern clay would not make adobes. It is the peculiar tenacity and hardness of the adobe soil of Colo- rado and the arid region generally, that makes such good and cheap building material of that clay. A one-story adobe house with a good dirt roof, while not very elegant in appearance, nor clean for a fastidious housewife, was warm in winter and cool in summer. When the door sill was constructed high enough to keep out the skunks it served the unpretending and impecu- nious pioneer, being far superior in every way to the squatters' sod cabins of the Kansas home- steaders. It must be remembered that the Western slope of the Territory of Colorado in 1870 still remained an Indian Reservation. What is called the Gunni- son country was unoccupied by the white man. It had no railway and no communication with the rest of the world. At the time of the Meeker mas- sacre in 1878, all the region west of the main range was unknown except to the Indians, the government agent and a few mining prospectors. But after carbonates were discovered at Leadville in 1878, and silver in the San Juan region of southwest Colorado, railways were soon built in both sections. Canon City was the only town west of Pueblo, all beyond being terra incognita. The crossings of the Platte, where Denver now stands ; of the Arkansas where Pueblo is now located, and COLORADO IN 1870 21 the Purgatoire where Trinidad now exists as a city, were mere available points on the trail be- tween military forts on the north, such as Fort Laramie, and Fort Union in New Mexico, in the south, and where aggregations of population naturally settled and became permanent. The present climate and the resulting flora and fauna are due to the lack of moisture and the high altitude. Pueblo is higher from the sea level than any point in the Alleghany Mountains in Pensylvania, Virginia, or Maryland, and only two thousand feet less in height than the highest peak in the White Mountains of New England; its altitude being four thousand six hundred and sixty-seven feet. The altitude and the aridity are the real causes of the peculiarity of its flora and fauna. This was not always so, and no one can measure by years the date of the beginning of the present physical peculiarities of this region. Far back in the Cretaceous Epoch the ocean rolled over the site of Pueblo as high as Pike's Peak. As that ancient ocean receded and the Rocky Mountains were lifted up by the internal forces of the earth, the soil and gravel which now cover the rock strata were washed down from the moun- tain heights. The sandstone, lime rock and the shales which lie in such regular order, through which the Arkansas river has cut its channel, were deposited in successive layers by the ocean waters. In that remote age the climate was 22 RANCHLIPE moister and perhaps warmer than now. The im- mense Colorado coal measures show that at or be- fore the Cretaceous Epoch luxuriant tree ferns covered the land, which is now able in its present state to produce only the natural grasses, the sage brush, the cacti, the cedar and pinon. But man did not exist when the forests and swamps cov- ered the land. He is here now and is changing the cacti and sage brush into alfalfa, corn, sugar beets, delicious melons and the product of the or- chard. The Indian was not able to make this change nor could the present inhabitants convert this prairie wilderness into a garden for the abode of civilized millions yet to come, until they were preceded by the pioneer with his horse, rifle and knife. Thanks to the factors, heretofore spoken of and the warm Japan winds from the Pacific coast, Colorado has a very fine climate. Here in the bottom of that Cretacean ocean is being built an empire the greatness of which no man living now can estimate. It was thought the prophecies of Governor William Gilpin in 1870 and before, regarding the future of Colorado were poetic fancies, but they have been already largely realized. No one be- lieved Mr. Lagrange, of Greeley, in the 70's, when he said Colorado could raise enough agricultural products to support a population of three millions. The popular idea rather coincided with that of Senator J. B. Chaffee's, who said, a man was a COLORADO IN 1870 23 fool to try to farm in Colorado and he also thought Denver might eventually grow to contain a hundred thousand population, but no more. Now with the prospects of dry farming, the possible conservation of water for irrigation in every de- pression of the surface, at every opening through the mountains and foot-hills, the future use of ce- mented reservoirs and ditches, the distribution of water in the fields by perforated pipes and the proper selection of crops adapted to the physical peculiarities, there is no limit to the future possi- bilities of the cosmopolitan race that will eventu- ally people the whole of Colorado, in much the same manner and numbers as the settled portions of the Arkansas valley are now peopled. Life is worth while in such a region. It would be exceedingly interesting to return from the great unknowable in two hundred years from now and make a trip in the airship of that day from the headwaters of the Arkansas river to the east- ern boundry of Colorado. RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO This American made a settlement with his family on a ranch three miles west of Pueblo. It was a singular thing for an inexperienced man to do. He was neither a farmer nor the son of a farmer. He knew nothing about farming meth- ods nor the raising of stock. He had been a mounted officer in the Civil War and therefore could ride and manage a horse but for any real knowledge of horses in general, of cattle, or of sheep or hogs, he was fully as ignorant as any other townsman. It will thus be seen that the motive for a movement of this kind was not that of pecuniary profit alone. In almost every such instance where inexperienced men undertook the ranching business the pecuniary balance was on the wrong side of the ledger. But this family had been living on the west shore of Lake Michi- gan where the winter climate was very severe and trying. It began to undermine the health of both husband and wife, and upon the advice of the family physician they were seeking an out- door life in a climate less severe and where the sunshine and pure air would bring back the health RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 25 that was partially lost in the east. So they were willing to undergo a rough life, the most of which would be spent in the open air, and where the diet would be of the plainest and simplest kind. Another and potent reason can be given. A strong love of nature, innate in the head of the family and fostered by his previous environment and habits urged him to a rural life. This can best be illustrated by giving a pretty full account of his early life in Kentucky and Ohio. In the blue grass region of Kentucky in his earliest boyhood he had an unquenchable desire to wander from the small town in which he lived, over the blue-grass pastures and sweet meadows, along the streams, which had cut their way through the blue limestone strata, to fish in the waters or gather walnuts or hickory nuts from the numerous woods which adorned that beautiful country. An uncle's farm, a few short miles be- yond the town was a favorite resort. He remem- bers with delight playing in the ample grounds of the home residence on this farm or playing on the bales of hemp in the wide barn and going down to the spring house where the milk was kept and riding the horses whenever he was al- lowed to do so. It was a delight in those early boyhood days to be with the team which was usu- ally a Conistoga wagon and four horses, the driver riding the near wheel horse and using only a single line to guide the leaders; or to follow the 26 RANCH LIFE plow and get the aroma of the fresh earth and view the insects and every sort of geocentric an- imal that burrowed in the ground. The same desire for a country life continued throughout his boyhood days, when a change was made from the blue-grass country of Kentucky to the north side of the Ohio River. The flora and fauna of that region were generally of the same delightful character as those from which he had migrated. The town in which he lived in Ohio was practically of the same size and the en- vironment of that same character, so inviting to a boy from the time he was nine until he was eigh- teen years of age. Thick beech woods grew upon the hills adjoining the town, and the beech nuts so abundant invited squirrels and birds of all kinds, and especially the wild pigeon. The hills on both sides of the Ohio river at this point were covered with the most fascinating growth of all varieties of trees and vegetation. The hunting was fine, so that with a gun and a skiff one could row to any spot on the river and find the finest recreation. A sail boat was a delightful means of transportation on this water, and it was found easy to construct such a craft, because along this river the necessities of boating had given rise to a class of ingenious boat-builders, who could easily construct almost any kind of craft. Berries of all kinds grew in profusion. Wild plums, fox grapes, black and red haws, persim- RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 27 mons, paw-paws, sassafras bark were in profusion everywhere. Hazel nuts, acorns, shell bark hick- ory nuts and walnuts, gave abundance of re- sources to the boys when the frost came in the fall and luscious paw-paws began to fall from sheer ripeness, and soon became covered with the falling leaves. When the skin of the paw-paw a little later turned black, that was the signal for them to be eaten. The boys soon learned just the right time to gather each of these natural pro- ductions of the forest, and never failed to reap an ample store of all of them. It was pleasurable delight in the summer time to wander along the sandy beach of the beautiful river, play on the sand-bars and swim in its waters, as long as the boy desired. The city or town contains no de- lights like these, and the boy who has never en- joyed them has no conception of the true delights of a real country life. Even the best school was not in the town, but two and a half miles away along the banks of the river, where the roadway was lined with the wildest and most beautiful productions of nature, with all kinds of wild an- imals and birds to draw the boy's attention and make him linger on the road. There were no railroads in this region at that time, but travel and commerce were by steam- boats along the river, and by horse conveyance on the land, and these gave a most delightful variation to that enchanting environment. This 28 RANCHLIFE town lay only twenty miles from Cincinnati and a daily packet from there landed at the wharf, thus giving easy access to the commercial life of a great city. The period spent in this environment is looked back upon as the most pleasurable of his life. It was not an idle period, for the daily life was oc- cupied habitually with the duties of either busi- ness or the student life at school, and the recrea- tions spoken of were only enjoyed at proper times and in a temperate way. The life fitted into the environment, and nature's profusion of beautiful productions was simply complementary to the artificial education which every well endowed boy should experience. It was not an idle but a happy life, and perhaps is the best for preparing boy- hood for those future sterner duties which come to every one in manhood. A curious case of illusion is that when one leaves the Ohio river, its delightful valley and pleasant hills, and resides for a few years on the shore of a large body of water like Lake Michigan, he is astonished when revisiting the boyhood region, to find that in his larger acquired vision the river, valley and hills have shrunken to one- half of their former supposed dimensions, and especially is this so when one travels further and views for a time a wide ocean or a range of high mountains then when he returns to his early habitat, the illusion is still more potent. This RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 29 kind of early experience remained in memory when the doctor, as aforesaid, suggested that the conditions made it almost imperative that this family seek in Colorado, that which it had failed to find in the Ohio valley or in the more northern region of Wisconsin. It was with the recollection of all this that twenty-four years afterward he gladly and con- fidently located on this ranch on the upper waters of the Arkansas river, in the very shadows of the Rocky Mountains, so far away from the region just described on the Ohio river. The environ- ment here in Colorado was different in almost every respect from that in Ohio or Kentucky, yet while it lacked the exuberant vegetation and possessed an entirely different animal life, it made up for it by having other natural features that were perhaps more essential to the life upon which they were then just entering. The landscape was entirely different. High mountains in plain view upon the west and the foot-hills covered with their own peculiar tree life and grasses, which grow only in a semi-arid region, sloped down from the mountains to the very borders of the ranch. On the north was Pike's Peak, plainly in view fifty miles away, though not looking to be over ten; in the south the Twin Mountains, snow-capped and seventy- five miles away. From Pike's Peak on the north to the Twin Mountains directly south, there was a 30 RANCHLIFE range of mountains, bent like a bow to the west, and averaging perhaps ten thousand feet high, with the concave side toward the ranch. This range of mountains, while seeming continuous, was discontinuous in its course, and took on dif- ferent names in different localities; for instance, the Cheyenne Mountains extended from the base of Pike's Peak some distance to the south. The range immediately south of the Arkansas river is called the Wet Mountains, and further south where it rises in places to the height of twelve thousand feet, the Greenhorn range. Still be- yond the Greenhorn range, but seeming continu- ous, from where it terminates on the Huerfano river, to the Twin Mountains, rose the perpetual white tops of the Sangre de Christo range. Long- fellow must have had in mind such mountains when he wrote: "Where steep Sierra far uplifts Its craggy summits white with drifts." These mountains were far away, but an optical illusion would occasionally bring them so near as to make it seem that one could walk to and touch their beautiful sides and return before breakfast. Especially at the rising of the sun, when the clouds hung but a little seeming distance above the tops of the mountains, the reflection of its rays from the clouds directly on the mountain tops would make the illusion perfect. These fas- RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 31 cinating features which were so much enjoyed in daylight were more than equalled by the splendor of the skies at night. With nothing in the imme- diate environment to obstruct the view of the as- tronomical bodies, the clear atmosphere rendered the stars exceedingly bright, and the constella- tions could be traced with the utmost ease and delight. It was the study of astronomy, with the natural eye alone; repeated night after night, it greatly added to the book knowledge theretofore acquired without the accessory of such a splendid astronomical observatory. When the full moon is just rising above the eastern horizon, it appears to be larger than it does in the zenith. It is not really larger nor is it enlarged by any condition of the atmosphere ; it is purely an optical illusion. This is produced by a mental operation which may be described in this wise: the beholder has a sub- conscious knowledge of the great distance of the moon from the earth; while the moon is on the horizon, he unconsciously compares its well known size and distance with the intervening ob- jects on the earth's surface, but when it arrives in the zenith, there being no intervening objects, the illusion has passed away. If a sheet of paper is made into a cylinder and the observer will adjust it to his eye so that the full moon on the horizon will just fill its diameter, it will be found also that the same moon when it arriver in the zenith, will just fill the diameter of the same cylin- 32 RANCHLIFE der. The cylinder shuts off the intervening ob- jects on the earth's surface when observing the moon on the horizon. For the same reason the stars on the horizon have a different appearance from that which they have in the zenith. To say they settled on a ranch might convey the idea that the ground was cultivatable, the land irrigated, and that the improvements were at least of a comfortable kind. But there was an absence of all these. The improvements con- sisted of a log cabin very crudely built and having only a dirt roof. Adjoining was a dug-out cellar with the same kind of a roof and a corral made of poles. The cabin was located on the bank of the river within thirty feet of the water and this river was the sole reliance for water. There was no irrigation ditch and the high bluffs which im- mediately began to the west and up the river, prevented the construction of a ditch without very great expense. But this did not worry this family because they were not anxious to farm and they were close enough to Pueblo to easily procure all farm products without having to raise them. They had infinite confidence in eventually acquiring sufficient knowledge of the business they were launching into, to make it at least pleas- ureable, if not profitable. There was a wide sense of liberty and independence in living in this glori- ous atmosphere and sunshine and having a wide RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 33 expanse of unoccupied land on all sides. There was not another house in sight. It was located about where the thin timber in the foothills ends and the true prairie country begins. Adjoining the river in the bottoms was a heavy growth of cottonwood trees, some wil- lows, wild plum trees and wild grape vines. At first there were but a hundred and sixty acres of land with an uneven contour, including a portion of the river, but from time to time adjoining lands were acquired until about a mile and a quarter east and west and extend- ing on both sides of the river gave a variety of bottom and upland that made a body of land large in extent only. There were some natural meadows from which hay was cut each season, but a large part of it produced nothing but sage brush and greasewood. Better buildings were immediately required. Selecting a desirable spot on high lands, but not far from the river, a comfortable adobe dwelling a story and a half high was built with a shingle roof and a good stable and corrals. These im- provements would have been creditable to an east- ern farm and made the stay upon the ranch both comfortable and pleasurable. The nearest neighbor on the east was "Com- modore" T. C. Wetmore, and on the west lived "Professor" Boggs. These ranchmen had some farming lands and raised corn, but what the one 34 RANCHLIFE was "Commodore" of or the other "Professor" of remained an unsolved problem. About a mile up the river, on the opposite side, lived the well- known Charles Goodnight, a driver and dealer in Texas cattle, a very respected citizen of the coun- ty, a man of fine character and in every way de- sirable as a neighbor. Next west of "Professor" Boggs lived J. J. Smith and adjoining him Michael Mahoney. Mahoney's ranch was bounded on the west by what is well known as Rock Canon, a narrow defile cut by the river through the sand- stone at some period long back in geological time. There was no ranch for three miles up the river from this Rock Canon and then followed to the foot of the mountains some forty miles, a succes- sion of ranches in places where natural hay could be' cut and contiguous grazing lands on the higher mesas. The ranchmen all kept more or less stock, generally cattle and horses, which were branded with the private brand of the ranchman and grazed on the adjoining mesa government lands. Such were the ranch and its surroundings during a residence of ten years, from 1870 to 1880. It had been determined beforehand for what purpose this ranch would be used, for without a profitable occupation the pleasure of such a life would be of short duration. That occupation was to be stock raising alone and incidentally the cutting of hay upon natural meadows. But there was never any intention of ploughing lands and raising crops. In RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 35 after years when this land was divided up into small farms and gardens it proved to be very pro- ductive. Now, in 1914 some of the most valuable gardens about Pueblo are located on this land. The sagebrush land eventually raised the finest celery and all of the ranch when placed under irrigation proved to be exceedingly valuable for farming purposes. DOMESTIC ANIMALS. The first stock placed upon the ranch was a flock of fifteen hundred sheep ; a little later a small herd of cattle and some horses. All the stock grazed on public lands adjacent to the ranch. A cabin and corrals being built in the bottom on the south side of the river, there the flock with a herder was located and ranged upon the bluffs and open mesa prairie running east, south and west. There then existed no obstruction to graz- ing in any direction. The Denver & Rio Grande Railroad was yet unbuilt; there was no Bessemer ditch, and the place where South Pueblo is now located on the mesa, contained not a single house. The sheep grazed over the ground now occupied by the City Park and Minnequa Lake. This is an artificial lake made by throwing across a depres- sion in the land a dam and running into it a ditch from the St. Charles river. In 1870 it was dry 36 RANCHLIFE grazing land. The winter of 1870-71 was a severe one, and as the range on the south side of the river sloped toward the north, the snow lay with- out melting for a long time. One day after a severe storm, when the snow lay upon the ground about a foot deep, the herder appeared in the cabin just as the hour for the noonday meal ar- rived, and excitedly exclaimed "The sheepies is gone." It was then snowing some and the wind was from the north. He explained that he could not keep up with the sheep although he was on horseback, and they had drifted away from him. It being apparent that the sheep could not have sunken into the earth, nor really been lost, the herder was invited to sit down to dinner, after which a search would be made for the sheep. By riding directly south in the course of the wind for two or three miles, they were found, huddled to- gether and apparently waiting for someone to come after them. They were gotten back to the corral in due time, and one of the peculiarities of the stock business was over for that day. In the next spring, it was found that the grass on this range had been pretty well eaten off, and in order to have new grass grow during the spring and summer for the next winter's feeding, it was necessary to transfer the sheep to some other lo- cality. A ranch was purchased on the Divide at the head of Cherry creek, four miles east of the present town of Monument in El Paso County. RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 37 It had a fine summer range at an elevation of about seven thousand feet, and there the sheep were located with a herder. In fact, these wooly animals had to be changed oftener than either cattle or horses. The horses and cattle ranged on the north side of what may be called the home ranch on the Arkansas river. They grazed as far west as Turkey Creek and as far north as what was called the pinon woods on the foot-hills. This was a very large range for the number of horses and cattle that then occupied it. So that these animals did not require any transfer at any time of the year to other localities. It was discovered, however, in the course of a year or two, that cat- tle were not profitable unless handled in much larger numbers. An opportunity offering to trade them for horses, an end thus came to the ex- periment of cattle raising and cowboy riding. A herd of Texas horses having been purchased prior to this exchange and this additional herd ac- quired by the exchange of cattle having been added to them, there were then about one hundred and fifty head of horses on the ranch. They proved to be great roamers, and seldom all of them could be rounded up at one time. They sep- arated into bunches, and some of them would roam as far north as Little Buttes, twenty miles, others into the pinons on the head waters of Turkey Creek, while some crossed the river and wandered out toward the foothills in the south- 38 RANCH LIFE west. Thus a great deal of riding and driving became necessary, and it soon developed that there would be no profit to an amateur in that kind of business. But horses are very interesting ani- mals! A horse is much more intelligent than a cow or a sheep, and as there was nearly always a bunch being kept up to be broken and sold in the market it was an interesting diversion from the ordinary ranch life to watch the peculiarities of the animals, but more especially those of the breakers. Most of these breakers were Mexicans, and they were exceedingly expert in throwing the lasso and in handling and riding wild horses, their methods being of the cruelest kind. They used cowboy saddles, usually with two cinches, and bridle bits that were exceedingly severe in the mouths of the animals. They would lasso a wild horse, and by winding the lariat around a "snub- bing post'* soon had him flat on his side. Then forcing the bit in his mouth and a saddle on his back, the rider was enabled to mount him, and pitching and bucking at a furious rate, the horse and rider would start off. This continued until the animal was completely exhausted. These op- erations continued from day to day until the horse was supposed to be broken. Some horses were much more easily tamed than others ; it depended largely upon the intelligence of the horse. Others were never tamed, and these when mounted al- ways pitched and jumped in an endeavor to dis- RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 39 mount the rider. Those Mexican horse-breakers were generally unfit for anything else, being lazy, slow and independent, selected their own times to do the work, and one of them would often ride a horse off to Pueblo and hours would elapse before he would return. They were not paid by the day, but broke each horse for a certain price. There were some domestic American horses on the ranch, gentle and workable, being really pets from the time they were colts. They were most enjoy- able companions. Many of them seemed de- lighted to do their duties when not over-worked, and many of them were exceedingly sociable, al- ways coming up to be petted. Two or three of them became very fond of clabbered milk which was set out in wide pans for them to drink. They would come to the house and paw on the cellar door as a signal for this milk. This was a pe- culiarity very amusing that had not before been observed in horses. Chickens were kept in large numbers being in a small way very profitable. Some pigs were kept and in the course of time a regular dairy was es- tablished the milk from which being sold in Pueblo. After a year or two struggling with the main- tenance of a horse herd, it was found best that they should be sold and the efforts in the stock business which before that time had been too much scattered should be centered upon that par- 40 RANCHLIPE ticular branch of stock raising which had proved not only the most congenial but the most profit- able. The number of horses was reduced to that required for work on the ranch and for carriage use or horseback riding. The sale of the horses reduced the domestic animals to a small herd of dairy cows and two flocks of sheep, two thousand in each. In the summer time no sheep remained at the home ranch. Ranches had been acquired at Rock Canon three miles up the river and at Adobe Creek, in what is now Crowley County, about seventy miles east of Pueblo, in addition to that one already spoken of, on the Divide. The flocks were usually brought to the home ranch in the winter time where they were kept until after shearing and lambing in the spring. They were then taken to the nearest ranch where the grass had been left to grow until after the lambs could be separated from their mothers and put by themselves. They were then sent to the more distant ranches, each flock accompanied by a herder and a two-horse wagon with a driver. Sometimes these outfits would linger on the way to the distant ranches and temporarily take up quarters where good grass and water were contiguous and where their presence would not too much interfere with cattle ranges. One of these expeditions was made to a ranch east of Colorado Springs for dipping the sheep in a solution of tobacco and sulphur to kill RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 41 the germs that were destroying the wool, a dis- ease called the "scab." "Mack," an old hand at the business, was the herder and "Jeff" drove the team. The herder had a pony to ride and with the team was another saddle pony to be used in case of emergency. After the dipping, they started directly east for the Adobe creek ranch. It was a fine flock of choice sheep and with them were two large black goats with bells attached to straps fastened around their necks. Goats are exceed- ingly sagacious animals and wherever they led the sheep were sure to follow. Their tall forms and ringing bells kept the coyotes from preying upon the sheep and also assisted the herder in detecting any movement at night. The herder also had a shepherd dog with him which could be sent around the flock at any time and would bring in any that were grazing too far away. They had proceeded perhaps a couple of days travel toward their destination when a severe northern blizzard struck them at night. It was accompanied by snow and some hail. All the efforts of the two men and shepherd dog failed to hold the sheep to- gether and they quickly drifted away following the trend of the storm and were lost to the herd- ers. The men stayed in camp until morning and then spent that day in hunting for them, but not succeeding Jeff mounted one of the horses and rode for the home ranch. The distance was about seventy-five miles but he reached home during 42 RANCHLIPE the afternoon of the third day after the loss and informed the proprietor of the accident. Consid- erable thinking was done that night as to the best method of proceeding. The storm had come from the north and would undoubtedly blow the strays toward the Arkansas river, north of which forty- rive miles the disaster occurred. After the storm abated they sought water and that existed only in the Arkansas river. The sheep would natur- ally keep together unless they were scattered by coyotes and the only object in hurrying for the search at all was to prevent their being thus scat- tered. So the next day a pair of horses was hitched to a spring wagon and Jeff and the pro- prietor drove down the river through Pueblo and on east to the mouth of the Chico. Inquiring of the ranchman who lived at that point (inquiries had already been made along the road in several places) he answered that he noticed a flock of sheep watering at some distance below him on the river but paid no attention to them supposing they had a herder. The journey was resumed in that direction and within a mile or mile and a half the sheep were found lying down. The two black goats were standing with their heads erect as if watching for any friend or enemy. Jeff acted as herder while the proprietor drove the team and in the evening they were again at the home ranch. Being counted the next day only two or three were found to be missing. It is altogether probable RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 43 that if the black goats, with their bells, had not been with them they would have been badly scat- tered and many of them lost. Storms are very destructive to sheep. They cannot be made to face a storm they always drift with it keeping their faces away from direct contact with the wind, rain or snow. "Mack" suggested that the sheep drifted toward the Greenhorn range of mountains in the southwest which brought them to the river. However, and whatever the cause of their being found in that location, it was most gratifying to the owner that they were recovered with so little exertion and in such short time. To illustrate the precarious conditions of the business of wool-growing at that time in Colorado the following juxtaposition of its good and ill for- tune is given. A resident of Philadelphia, Pen- sylvania, owned six thousand head and grazed them by proxy on the Apishapa river in Huerfano County, hiring a manager and herders while he remained at his eastern home. Experience having taught him in time that these conditions were in- compatible with successful results, he offered the sheep for sale at a very reasonable price. Imme- diately the Pueblo ranchman procured an option for the purchase of two thousand of them. A short time afterwards the remaining four thou- sand were taken by an ex-banker of Chicago who was also seeking the recovery of his health in the fine climate of Colorado. His enthusiasm exceed- 44 RANCH LIFE ed all bounds and his wealth was ample. He de- sired to purchase the whole six thousand and when all the interested parties met at the Apisha- pa ranch to count and transfer the sheep, he of- fered the buyer of the two thousand a bonus of $500 for his purchase. This was declined. It was agreed that the flock should be divided by let- ting two thousand of them out of the corral, one at a time, through a chute which had been built on one side of the corral and when these had passed through the remainder should go to the banker from Chicago. This plan was very agreeable to the purchaser of the two thousand, because experi- ence had proved that the most vigorous would come out first. The two thousand accompanied by a herder and their proprietor were soon on the road toward Pueblo, grazing by the way. The weather being fine there was no hurry to get them on the home range for the longer they should be kept by the way, the better would it be for them and the better the grass on the home range would become. It was in March when this flock arrived at the home ranch. In a short time there came an inquiry from a merchant in Pueblo asking at what price these two thousand sheep could be purchased. The answer was $2,000 advance over the price at which they were bought. A few days after the banker from Chicago came to the home ranch paid the price and drove them away. They were RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 45 taken immediately to their grazing grounds north- east of Colorado Springs, in El Paso County, and turned into the same flock with the four thousand. In a few days after this a severe northeast storm of snow and sleet struck the combined flock on the range, froze to death one of the two or three herd- ers and drove twenty-five hundred of the sheep over some high bluffs, killing them all. The only part of the twenty-five hundred left to sell were the pelts. The Chicago banker concluded that wool growing in Colorado was not profitable and soon closed out his holdings. As said before, the question of ranges for sheep was a serious one. Experience proved that not more than two thousand could be profitably grazed in one flock. Two flocks might be kept at one point in two corrals and grazed in different directions, but one herder could not well attend more than that number. For instance, at the home ranch two thousand could be kept on each side of the river, but the important thing was not to crop the grass too close at any time of the year and to have some ranges free from sheep while the grass was growing. Cattle did not do well grazing upon the same range with sheep and the cattle raisers were very bitterly opposed to this and perhaps properly so. The Adobe creek ranch was selected with particu- lar reference to this feeling of cattlemen. Assist- ance was given in the selection of this ranch by 46 RANCH LIFE Mr. Ludwig Kramer, who had a fine place on the Arkansas river twenty-five miles east of Pueblo. He grazed a large number of cattle toward the north from his ranch as far east as Bluff Springs and along Mustang creek perhaps as far as Horse Creek. Two fine springs were found in the bluffs immediately west of Adobe Creek. The range was exceedingly fine and seemed to be unoccupied except by a herd of wild horses which kept well out of the way and would run whenever they sighted a man in the distance. The distance from .the home ranch was really little further than the one on the Divide. The good grazing and occa- sional water between these two ranches made the long distance endurable. The ranch itself was perfect for summer occupation only. It was a true prairie region without any timber and there- fore there was no protection against storms. A cabin and corrals were soon built and occupied more or less during the years following. At one time while a flock of sheep was being taken to this ranch by two men with wagon and necessary equipments and all the paraphernalia of a moving flock, when they arrived at Horse Creek the two men concluded there was not any good reason why another ranch should not be established there. The finest water and splendid grazing lured the men. There were no cattle in sight and no cabin anywhere in view. They decided to remain at least for a while until they could communicate RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 47 with the home ranch. They soon erected from materials at hand a comfortable dug-out in which to sleep at night and used a circular canvas corral which they carried along with them in the wagon. This was made of canvas a yard wide, and iron stakes sufficiently numerous to hold the canvas in place. They remained but a few days, when one night hearing some commotion about the cor- ral, looking out they discovered some men on horseback driving the sheep away. The two herd- ers discreetly remained in the cabin watching the performance and noting the direction in which the sheep were taken awaited the coming of daylight before pursuing. They then found them not a great distance from the corral. The account of the event given by the herders was rather vague, but at all events it was taken as sufficient warning on the part of the cattle raisers whose stock per- haps occupied that region that sheep were not wanted there. They were taken to another local- ity and no further attempt was made to locate on Horse Creek. The route from Pueblo to that Adobe Creek ranch left the Arkansas valley at the mouth of Haines creek by what was known as the Kit, Car- son road, a plain wagon road leading to the town of Kit Carson on the Kansas Pacific Railway. The Adobe Creek ranch was located perhaps four or five miles north of this Kit Carson road where it crossed from Horse creek to Adobe. Large irri- 48 RANCHLIFE gating ditches now cover that whole country and valuable reservoirs and farms occupy the entire region between there and the Arkansas river. The town of Arlington, now on the Missouri Pa- cific Railway, is located on Adobe creek, south of this sheep ranch. The Divide ranch, an old stage station at the head of west Cherry Creek, immediately on the old stage road from Denver to Pueblo, a fine pro- ducer of native hay, with log house and very com- modious barns, was formerly the home of John Irvine who moved from there to his farm on the Fountain river at the station now called Wigwam on the Denver and Rio Grande Railway. Because of these convenient buildings it proved to be a de- sirable summer location and a fine place to shear, which generally occurred in May or June of each year. The clip of wool of 1871, cut at this ranch, marketed in Denver, hauled by wagons, sold for 31c per pound. The Denver & Rio Grande Rail- way was then being constructed at Palmer Lake and down Monument creek, four miles west. After the clipping of 1871, however, the shearing was done at the home ranch on the Arkansas, because shearers were more easily obtained at that point and the wool could be such more readily marketed at Pueblo. Another ranch on the Arkansas river has not yet been mentioned but which was really more valuable than the home ranch. It was located two and one-half miles east of Pueblo down the RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 49 river. At the present time Pueblo has grown so far east as to bring this ranch within less than a mile of the suburbs. It consisted of a very valuable natural meadow from which a large crop of hay was taken every year. It had a valuable irriga- tion 'ditch covering the whole acreage, and was used for a number of years for the dairy cows. It made a splendid dairy ranch. Sheep were never taken to this ranch for two reasons. One was that the range contiguous was not so good as that at the home ranch and access to the water was cut off by fences and meadows. It was generally rented to a tenant who at the same time rented the dairy. THE PERSONNEL OF EMPLOYES. The personnel of the employes in this ranching business is interesting to look back upon. There were not a great number employed at any one time, but the aggregate for the whole time was large in number. Some of them remained for years, others for only a few months, and many for but a few weeks, sometimes only a few days. They were of all grades of efficiency, and nearly of all grades of character. There were still more grades of intellect among them some of them being bright and others very stupid. As a rule they were white men, generally Americans, but occa- sionally some Mexicans, who were really good 50 RANCH LIFE docile sheep herders. One by the name of Jesus proved to be an exceptionally good herder, and was kept for many months, but the American white men were the only ones who were really trusted to take flocks to the distant ranches. This name Jesus was pronounced "Hasoos" with the accent on the last syllable. It was a common name among the Mexicans, and was never thought any- thing but proper except by the woman whose tub was borrowed and sent home by the Mexican with a note which read : "Dear Madam: I am exceedingly obliged for the use of your tub, which I herewith return by Jesus. "Yours truly," She afterward remarked to the borrower that it was all right to return the tub, but it should have been done without any profanity. Many of these employes were young men from the east, seeking health in the Colorado climate. One was a young, smooth-faced boy from New York City. He was quite efficient in some ways, but exceed- ingly green and unused to the ways of the world arid many a joke was played upon him by the older western men. He afterwards became quite a politician in Pueblo, and held more than one city office. He long afterwards located in northern Mexico, where he now owns a large ranch. An- other employe is now a lawyer in Durango; an- RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 51 other a lawyer in Pueblo. But Mack, who stayed the longest as a sheep herder, and who was by far the most efficient one, had no ambition to rise higher, and went away from the ranch with the last flock of sheep, this being sold to a son of one of the principal fur merchants of New York City. Mack went with him. He was accompanied by a Mr. Grant from London, England, who had estab- lished a large stock ranch on the Kansas Pacific Railway in northwestern Kansas. They pur- chased this flock of sheep for investment, placing them on this ranch. They took Mack and the canvas corral. That was the last seen or heard of Mack. He was quiet and gentle, always doing his duty squarely and well. His only seeming faults were personal, his want of any thrift being the worst. WILD ANIMALS. In the summer of 1870, there were numerous varieties of wild animal life on that home ranch and in the country adjoining. There was an abundance of fish in the river, consisting of chan- nel and mud cats, suckers and a very fine silver scaled fish which for want of a better name was called white fish. Turtles were in great abund- ance. Mud cats weighing as high as ten pounds were sometimes caught, but the channel cat and the white fish made the finest eating. It was easy 52 RANCH LIFE to catch them on trot lines set with hooks every few feet and baited with minnows. These trot lines were kept anchored in the water and fast- ened to a stake on the shore, so that at all times plenty of fish appeared on the table. They could be also caught readily with pole and line, and much fishing was thus done by the visitors from Pueblo. A large wooden box was fastened at the edge of the stream, so the water would cover its bottom about a foot or eighteen inches deep. Many fish taken alive were placed in this box, so that fresh fish were always available at very short notice. A great many beavers lived along this stream. They were very shy animals, seldom seen and hard to trap, but their nightly depredations on the timber were plainly visible. They would cut down cottonwoods a foot in diameter. Whether they did this for the purpose of feeding on the bark and extreme twigs of the trees, or for use in constructing dams in the river, was difficult to determine. By means of traps, one was occasion- ally caught, and his fur was quite valuable. Ducks in large flocks at the proper season alighted on the waters, and the table was frequent- ly served with this delicious viand. There was no occasion to go hunting ducks or angling for fish, except for mountain trout, away from the ranch at any time. Wild geese, while not so plentiful as ducks, occasionally came within shooting dis- tance, and some were shot. An occasional long- RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 53 necked crane or heron would alight on the shore of the river. They were very beautiful but not edible, and therefore not shot. Cotton-tail rabbits were numerous, both in the sage brush, which grew particularly on the more level lands, and among the cacti, which seemed to grow best on the flat-topped hills. These little bunnies would make their nests under the bunches of cactus. They found in the cactus needles a perfect protection against the roving coyote or other enemies. It was easy to take a shot-gun and in an hour get enough of these on the ranch alone to make a meal for the family. Antelope were numerous on the range north of the ranch, it not being necessary to go out on the prairies to hunt for them, they came within shooting distance. On the morning of April 7, 1871, the storm of snow and sleet which destroyed so many sheep, spoken of before, drove a herd of antelope into the home ranch ; fifteen or twenty of them entered the corral. In their eager desire to escape the storm, they seemed to have lost the fear of human habitations and human beings, and acted almost tame. There then existed no law protecting these beautiful animals from the gun- ner, and one rifle shot killed three of them. The others jumped over the bank into the river and swam to the south side. In the crevices of the blue limestone bluffs just west of the house lived some swifts or little foxes, beautiful little gray 54 RANCH LIFE animals, whose bright eyes, erect ears and bushy tails were pleasant to see, as they would frequent- ly protrude their heads from their hiding places or take excursions, even in day-light, through the timber that lined the stream below the house. One could not be seen moving along through the cot- ton tree woods when a rifle was available, but often the roamer in the timber when unarmed could watch their beautiful forms passing rather leisurely within a short distance. They watched the chicken yard pretty closely, but if they made any depredations in that direction, it was not noticed. No exertion was made to kill or molest these little foxes, and very few beavers were ever caught. The little black and white striped animal, which has such a sharp black nose and bushy tail was numerous and gave some annoyance at times in the chicken quarters and by his odor. But he fed mostly on insects, toads and frogs, thus being perhaps to a farmer more valuable alive than dead. On the south side of the river, at the home ranch, there was an exceedingly thick growth of willows covering several acres evidently of an old bed of the stream. In this thicket there lived a very large wild-cat. He was as large as a good- sized bull-dog. He kept out of sight in daylight but occasionally from the small tight little corral, kept for the use of lambs which had lost their mothers, a lamb would be missing without the RANCH EIPE IN COLORADO 55 least evidence of the method of its disappearance. The cabin in which the herder slept adjoined this little corral and if he had been wide awake and less stupid he might have found out before he did the cause of their disappearance. This agile and industrious wild-cat was feeding on the lambs. He would jump the high board fence, seize one with the greatest agility and bound back again evidently without ever making any noise on the fence itself. He was finally killed but only some- time after he had been master of the situation. Rattlesnakes were numerous. They generally had holes of their own in which they crawled but sometimes used those of the prairie-dog. They were very sluggish and easily killed but would occasionally bite the noses and mouths of the graz- ing animals. They would lie curled up in the sum- mer time in the hottest places, the neutral tints of their skins making them almost invisible on the adobe soil. They were killed whenever seen. A slight tap of the quirt on the head of one was generally effective. A saucer full of their rattles at the house gave evidence of numerous killings. Owls of all sizes and shapes had their nests in the cedar trees within a half mile of the house. One would frequently come at night and lighting on the chimney make a most weird and disagree- able hooting. At such times they seemed to be aware that the inmates in bed were not likely to disturb them. Wild pigeons, doves, black birds, 56 RANCH LIFE and occasionally a blue bird would come and break the monotony of other sorts of animal life. Mag- pies were numerous but very disagreeable and worthless. Moles, field mice, prairie dogs, striped ground squirrels, beetles and insects of many kinds abounded in the soft soil of the bottom lands. In fact, there was life everywhere. Most of the insect life was invisible, but known to be there, and presumably for a good purpose. Every form of it seemed to be devouring other forms. Large numbers of field ants occupied places on the dry prairie land, and built good-sized mounds of the dirt and gravel carried from their galleries of rooms in the sub-soil. From the foot of these ant-hills, for quite a distance in a circle, the ground was perfectly bare. They either ate the grass and roots, or their very presence had the effect of killing all plant life within that circle. Ants are the most intelligent of all insects, and very cosmopolitan. They seen to be found on land in the temperate and torrid zones, everywhere around the earth. It has been said that the little particle of brain matter forming the head of an ant is the most intelligent piece of matter on the globe. It is interesting to any one to study their habits and watch with what system and industrial persistence they accomplish their objects. They are very annoying to farmers when their hills RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 57 happen to be in cultivated fields, and it is exceed- ingly difficult to annihilate them. There were also horned toads, the red racer, a most beautiful species of the order of snakes, tarantulas and centipedes. Common toads were not very numerous, but one big fellow made his home under the front steps of the house. The chil- dren amused themselves feeding him flies and other tid-bits, for he sunned himself daily. One day the wife hearing a commotion under the steps went to investigate, and as her foot touched the step, a large red racer emerged from underneath, and his throat was suspiciously large, with the legs of the toad protruding from his mouth. She called one of the men who cut the snake's head off, and out jumped the toad as lively as ever, without any seeming injury. Toads did not go near the water, but there were plenty of frogs along the edges of the river and these lived both in the water and on the land. They fed on insects and presumably small fish and were in turn a quite common food for snakes. Tarantulas, interesting but hideous animals, were huge black spiders cov- ering a space two inches in diameter with their numerous legs and feet. They made homes in the soil with a little trap-door at the top which they would shut when entering and it was quite diffi- cult to discover the trap-door. Scorpions appeared occasionally and once in a while a wild bee would 58 RANCH LIFE alight from some distant hive but the number was small. As said before, the deer tribe remained in the wooded regions of the mountains, as did the elk and the mountain sheep. Bears were also den- izens of the mountain districts but one day in driving from the ranch to Rock Canon up the river, a black object seen on the right of the road about a mile and a half from the ranch proved to be one. The vehicle turned from the road and approached the black object. It did not linger but was soon out of sight over the high bluff be- yond moving north toward the pinon woods. It was not followed nor seen again, but heard of. A Mr. Schwartz, who was a wood-hauler from the pinon woods to Pueblo, killed and brought into town that same evening a black bear which, of course, must have been the same one. Numerous mountain lions lived in the foot-hills, being ex- ceedingly shy, one was never seen at the ranch, but being very fond of the meat of young colts their presence not far away was evident. It is stated some pages back that it was not necessary for the hunter to go away from home in search of game. But occasionally an expendition went to Chico or Haines creek, where the antelope and jack rabbits were more numerous. It was easy to bring back a number of both these ani- mals. Jack rabbits were not especially good eating, but when cooked and served in a certain way, RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 59 made a very good substitute in the absence of other meats. There was nothing more delicious in the way of good eating than the round steak of a fat antelope. These were very numerous in those days, but being very fleet, it was necessary for the success of the hunter to discover their watering places, and they could then be easily killed. On such expeditions, and in fact on all trips, made for any purpose or from ranch to ranch, a pair of horses and a good wagon made a necessary conveyance. The outfit for cooking and sleeping was more for use than ornament. A Dutch oven in which to bake bread and meat of all kinds, a frying pan with a long handle which was called a "spider," an iron kettle and a tin one in which to boil potatoes and vegetables, a coffee pot, plates, and knives and forks made up the eat- ing department. A fine bed-room was made by using a long sheet made of two widths of cotton canvas wound around the wheels of the wagon, so as to enclose the space beneath. The bed was made of sheep skins with the full length of wool left on them, sewed together, of the proper length and width, and the skin sides of the pelts came to- gether so as to make a double thickness with wool on both the upper and under sides. This, with plenty of blankets, made a sleeping apartment finer than any in a first-class hotel. The traveler being thus equipped, there was no difficulty what- ever in keeping perfectly comfortable in the 60 RANCH LIFE stormiest weather. Tales have been told of men on the prairie being annoyed by snakes crawling into their beds at night, but nothing of that kind occurred to these pioneers. One reason why invalids whose lungs were more or less affected preferred the life of a herder to that of any other was the constant life in the open air both night and day. No one who took proper care of himself was injured by this kind of exposure, but greatly benefited. There is per- sonal knowledge of dozens who came from the east to Colorado with tuberculosis being cured by remaining in the mild climate of the Arkansas valley for two or three years. The almost perpet- ual sunshine and the absence of excessive moist- ure make the atmosphere a healing tonic, and while the spaces eaten out in the lungs are not re- placed by new lung substance, yet the abcesses are healed and the disease thus cured. Personal ex- perience proved also that the chest is enlarged and the breathing power made stronger and the inhalation more abundant, by the great exertion required to take in a larger quantity of the light air in Colorado than what has been habitual in the damper climate of the eastern states. At any rate, the physicians of the eastern states discov- ered long since that at least in the first stages of consumption, their best prescription directs the patient should migrate to Colorado. But coming to Colorado was not all ; a patient might come to RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 61 Colorado and by going to too high an altitude at first and especially by not remaining in the loca- tion where he received the most relief he might not improve especially if he became impatient or lonesome and returned to see his family or friends in the east. In the latter case he not only did not recover but in many instances quickly died. THE SOCIAL LIFE OF THE RANCH. It was fortunate that this American made a location not only in an equable and desirable climate under the bluest of skies and the most propitious surroundings, but that it was so close to a community like Pueblo, in which there could be found friends and neighbors. Drives to town were naturally frequent, and the ranch as con- stantly being visited by persons who had also sought the west, at least partly, for its freedom from conventional society. There lived here an intelligent community of men and women, most of whom had fine culture and were possessed of all the qualities desirable in social intercourse, courteous, generous, considerate and friendly. There were ministers of the gospel, teachers, law- yers, doctors, bankers, merchants and mechanics. They had too much love of freedom and adventure to remain in the east after becoming aware of the unoccupied and boundless attractions of the Rocky 62 RANCH LIFE Mountain region. Almost every Sunday visitors came to the ranch, and the neighbors who lived beyond, on their way to or from town, made fre- quent pleasant calls and gave friendly greetings. Mr. Charles Goodnight, Mr. Henry Cresswell, Professor Boggs, J. J. Smith and Michael Ma- honey were among the pleasant passers-by. From Pueblo would come Mr. and Mrs. Irving W. Stan- ton, Judge Moses Hallett, Judge Henry C. Thatch- er and R. M. Stevenson, the editor of the "Chief- tain." In 1874 Gov. Frederick W. Pitkin came with his family in search of health, which he had failed to find by traveling in almost every other region of the globe. He was in an exceedingly ad- vanced state of tuberculosis of the lungs, and lo- cating at first in Pueblo, his lungs were entirely healed by his staying there in the winter months and in the hot months of the summer traveling in a wagon through the mountains. He was elected Governor of the State in 1878 and lived for twelve years, although quite active in politics and the practice of the law. The facilities for social functions in the town of Pueblo at that early date were not expected to be first-class, but thoroughly enjoyed, because the people in this manner came closer to each other, overlooked the necessary annoyances which accompany all border life, while good will and humor prevailed at all times. Dances, dinner- parties, conversations frequently occurred. The RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 63 drama was necessarily more or less neglected, but the "Two Orphans" given in the Court House without any scenery, by a traveling company and an opera presented in Chilcot's Hall, also without scenery or orchestra, a piano supplying the music, gave a great deal of pleasure and merriment. "Jarley's Wax Works" got up by local talent for the benefit of some charity perhaps supplied pas- time of the most laughable and enjoyable char- acter. Friends and relatives came from the eastern states also, especially after the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad was built into Pueblo from Den- ver. This gave a continuous railway line from Chicago or New York, or any point on the rail- roads of the east, to Pueblo. It may be said that when this occurred, the real pioneer days were over, for when those luxuries of civilization, which were enjoyed in the east could be obtained by railroad and laid down so readily at one's very door, there was a marked transformation from the homely comforts of pioneer life to the adorn- ments and frivolities of civilization. When any- thing bought in the stores could be purchased for less than 25c, self-denial was thrown to the winds while in time better houses, better furniture, some works of art and libraries began to appear in various homes. The family whose ranch life is here recorded brought much of the furniture they used in the east in 1870, and never felt called upon 64 RANCH LIFE to do without carpets or bedsteads. Among the luxuries was a library of books. The new adobe house had been built with wide fire places and good-sized rooms, so that in winter when fires were necessary they were made of cottonwood found in such abundance in the drift piles along the river and the pinon wood, so pitchy and in- flammable, from the hills. So that comforts were not wanting at any season of the year. An adobe house, while warm in winter, is cool in summer. This house plastered on the outside did not show very apparently its construction of adobes. It had a large stone-walled cellar, good foundations, and here friends from Pueblo, or the east, were welcomed with a warm greeting, to pleasant sleeping rooms and a cuisine of white fish, chan- nel-cat, mutton fattened on the wild grasses of the prairie, tasting like wild meat, the most thrifty dark Brahma chickens, antelope steak, home-made bread, butter made on the ranch, milk and cream from the home dairy and jam of red raspberries picked on the mountains. Two children gave vivacity to this ranch life. A boy and a girl were the most precious and in- teresting members of this family. They reveled in the inexhaustible sources of human happiness in a region of such newness and freedom. They were the chief pets of the older men and women and had likewise their pets in horses, dog, sheep and pigs. In summer they gathered flowers and RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 65 grasses, roamed the prairie with a New Found- land dog as a constant companion and played in the waters of the river. Their grandparents on their mother's side resided six miles up the river and the visits there were always greatly enjoyed, as were also the drives into Pueblo. They grew strong and active in such surroundings, giving pride and pleasure to their parents. Excursions for pleasure to other localities were frequently taken. A trip into the mountains in the summer time, or to the top of Pike's Peak, or to Manitou Springs, or to Denver, made always a delightful diversion. When business had to be transacted at a distance more or less pleasure was added to it by driving a team in a spring wagon over the fine natural roads, the weather generally almost perfect and the fine scenery of the moun- tains on the west always in view. The sunsets were glorious. The changing tints made by the reflection of the setting sun on the fleeting clouds above were of the greatest magnificence and ex- quisite in gorgeousness. Even in the hottest days of summer, when the direct rays of the sun seemed unbearable, it was always cool in the shade and at night. So cool were the nights that one did not care to sleep without a covering, but most of the men on the ranch preferred to sleep out in the open rather than in the house. The constant sun- shine was not tiresome ; that and the purity of the atmosphere made things very clear to the eye at a 66 RANCHLIFE long distance and the mountains that were always in view from thirty to fifty miles away, appeared at times to be less than a tenth of that distance. On the prairie, there being no obstructions to the view, the distant horizon was like that on the ocean except for the mountains on the west, which rose in sublimity and grandeur. Pike's Peak could be seen from a point a hundred and eighty-five miles to the east. In going from the home ranch to that of Adobe creek, at a certain point on the road one was sure to see in the middle of a sunshiny summer day a mi- rage of cool water and green fields. These were illusions very grateful to the thirsty traveler while the other illusion of shortened distance from point to point kept up a pleasing hope which really shortened a journey and gave zest to every-day life in this "land of the blest." These peculiarities of this life in the far west really gave it its at- tractiveness. Of course, these alone would not people a country nor build an empire, yet if the pioneers had experienced dull and cloudy days and the heat of mid-day in summer had been con- tinued through the night, had the land been cov- ered with thick heavy woods shutting off these enchanting vistas, the pioneer life would have been less pleasurable and therefore much less use- ful. Had rains fallen in great quantity making impassable roads the only lines of communication, there would have been less intercourse, much RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 67 more hard toil, the winter grazing destroyed by too much moisture and generally less optimistic life. The absence of moisture alone made the grass nutritious in the winter time. The first impressions made upon women com- ing to Colorado gave them no pleasure. They naturally looked on the outdoor life here as being the same as that in the east. The log cabin or the adobe house did not "greatly please" them, but after remaining a few months, or a few years, and experiencing the life, there was either no de- sire to return to the east, or if returning, a strong desire arose to get back to the bright and free life of the prairies and mountains. The following account gives a full description of the most pleasurable diversion a resident of mountain districts can have. Trout fishing is pursued by so many men without knowledge of the necessary equipment, or of the proper method, that it seems necessary to give herein a full treat- ment of the subject. It should be not only a part of ranch life but an outing in the mountains is now so common in the life of every resident of Colorado that no apology is required for inserting herein how that outing can be made happy and desirable. FLY FISHING. To many men the most fascinating sport in Colorado is that of fly fishing in the mountains. 68 RANCHLIFE Expert hunters usually prefer elk or deer hunt- ing to trout fishing. True, it is more exciting, but requires a vaster exercise of energy. The fisherman may be a less active and energetic per- son than a hunter, but on many streams it re- quires the exercise of a great deal of strength and endurance to wade the stream and capture the trout. It is the expert fisherman only who gets the full measure of the sport and who really pur- sues it more for the pleasure there is in it than for any profit in large catches. If one is to re- ceive the full delights of the sport the commercial element must be entirely eliminated. The fisher- man should be properly equipped and this means that when he casts the fly he must feel perfectly comfortable although wading in mid-stream with perhaps the sun beating down in full splendor from the zenith in mid-summer. He must wear a cowboy's sombrero, nearly white in color and heavy enough to shed any rain. He must wear waders that come above the waist which will not leak a drop of water and over these a pair of overalls to protect the waders from snags and from wearing into holes. Over these on his feet he must have woolen socks and canvas light colored shoes with hob nails in the soles to prevent slip- ping. A very light rubber cape with arms to fasten around the neck and reach not lower than a few inches below the top of the waders, to be put on in case of rain. This cape must be light RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 69 enough to wrap in so small a bundle that it will go into a hip pocket in the overalls. In another hip pocket he will carry his lunch which should be a very light one. In two pockets in front of the overalls he will carry such other things as his experience proves to be desirable. In the pockets of his flannel shirt should be a knife, a fly-book and an aluminum box, thin and just wide enough to carry a leader and some flies. In this box will be a wet pad to keep these flies and leaders moist enough to use instantly. Dry strands in leaders and flies break too easily to be used without wet- ting beforehand. A desirable adjunct is a spring scale for weighing the fish. He should wear no heavy clothing under the waders and only a single shirt, no coat nor trousers. The waders being impervious to the water from the outside also confine the perspiration, therefore the waders should be very loose around the body above the waist to allow the perspiration to evaporate, and too much clothing makes the fisherman uncom- fortable in a short time so that he does not enjoy his fishing. He must wear cotton gloves with the tips of the fingers cut off, and the wristlets long enough always to cover the space around the wrist not covered by the cuff of the shirt sleeve, other- wise his wrist will soon become sore from blister- ing in the sun. He must carry a fishing rod made of many strips of bamboo and divided into three sections, the whole rod weighing from five to 70 RANCH LIFE seven ounces only and about ten feet long. The reel seat of the pole should be nickel-plated metal, and the reel a good strong one made of rubber and nickel-plated steel. The line running from this reel through guides to the end of the pole should not be too light, for a line too light is easily blown by the wind and does not stay where cast, but the line should be of the best material. The leader should be at least six feet long and where tied upon the line, the tying knot should be made as small as possible, and there should be no projec- tion of the end of the line from its connection with the leader. At the end of the leader is a loop and into this loop will be inserted the loop of the fly, thus requiring no tying. There are infinite varieties of flies with as many fancy names, but it is found that the Coachman and the Royal Coachman tied upon a No. 8 Sproat hook are the most effective in the mountain streams of south- ern Colorado. The creel should be of willow large enough to hold from fourteen to eighteen pounds of fish, with nickel fastenings and no leather bindings. This strung upon the left hip and held over the right shoulder by the modern creel strap will finish the equipment of an expert fisherman. One thus equipped will wade to the middle of a clear mountain stream and fish up-stream, vary- ing his course from one side to the other of the stream by the nature of its waters. To do this the stream must not be too large ; it must be clear RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 71 of drift and logs, not too rocky, and there should be no mosquitoes there are plenty of streams where there are no mosquitos. If now the stream is reasonably well filled with speckled trout, and the fisherman knows where and how to cast, he ought to be able, within a reasonable distance, to fill 1 that fourteen-pound creel. He of course understands that the fly must not be allowed to lie still upon the water. A slight movement of the wrist will make it appear to the fish like a live fly, and he must not cast in one place more than twice. If the fish is going to take the fly at all, he seizes it at once. In a good stream, it will take about twenty fish, or perhaps twenty-five, to fill the creel. A record of thirty fish caught in the South Fork of White River, gives a weight of twenty-three pounds. A good fisherman knows just where the trout lies in the stream, and if on a riffle it is always behind a rock where there is an eddy and still water, with its head up-stream invariably; but the large and strong fellows occupy the still holes on the sides of the stream close to the running water, where they lie and watch for any food that may come down the stream. The largest fish occupy the largest holes until they are caught, and then the next largest come in and takes their place. It is because the fish always lies with its head up- stream or feeds as it moves up-stream, that it is best that the fisherman cast up instead of down. 72 RANCH LIFE He can thus get closer to the fish without its see- ing him, and the closer he can get the surer he is of hooking the fish. But if the fish sees the fish- erman first, it is off like a shot, and in that case there is no chance of hooking it. A fish is not al- ways caught when it is hooked, for with the light tackle just described, it is not safe to lift the fish out of the water with the tackle. When hooked it immediately runs away with the fly, and it is wise to let it run until it stops of its own accord, but if possible, not to let it run into very swift water, for then it has the weight of the water to assist in carrying it away from the fisherman and to break, if possible, the hold of the hook, or to break the line or the rod itself. As soon as it stops running, then the reel should be used vigor- ously and as rapidly as possible, the fish drawn to the fisherman, holding the butt of the pole with the left hand and working the reel with the right hand. If it can be drawn into still water, it can be very easily managed if the fisherman does not lose his head. There should be no movement of the body while the fish is being played, other than the necessary working of the reel with the right hand. The rod should be held perfectly still and the bend of it will readily hold an ordinary fish in place in the water until it gives up of its own accord. If the pull of the fish, after being drawn toward the fisherman, is found to be too heavy for the safety of the tackle, the fish should be al- RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 73 lowed to run again, which it will do for a less distance than it did at first, and as soon as it stops, it should be reeled in again. All this time the fisherman and the rod should be perfectly still, not even moving a finger, for should the fish- erman move his body and especially his foot under the water, it increases the exertions of the fish to get away, and it is more likely to be lost. After two or three trials of rushing with the hook fast- ened in its mouth, the bend of the light rod will easily hold the trout in place until it is tired out. This condition is quickly observable by an expert fisherman, because the trout turns over on its side and rises to the surface of the water. Then the fisherman can easily draw it within reach of his hand, when he stoops down, inserts his thumb in the mouth of the fish and two fingers in the gill, and joining thumb and fingers, lifts it quickly out of the water. If thus held, no fish can get away. If the fish is of good size, the fisherman carries the trout thus to the shore, and lays his tackle down a sufficient distance from shore, so if the fish is dropped, it cannot get back into the water, takes his knife and quickly stabs the fish on top of the head between the eyes. This kills it at once. The hook is then disengaged from the mouth, the fish put in the creel, and the creel securely fast- ened before the next casting. Fishing from the shore of a stream is not sat- isfactory. The fisherman who makes large catches 74 RANCHLIPE is the one who wades the stream. This is economy in time and strength, because always on a trout stream there are so many places on the shore where the fisherman must go around a fine fishing hole, and if he undertakes to cast from the shore, the branches of overhanging trees and bushes are apt to catch his hook and line, whereas in the middle of the stream there is usually nothing to interfere with the free and easy casting. If the stream happens to be in the high altitudes, the early mornings are too cold for successful fishing, and the fish are sluggish until the sun gets high enough to warm the air a little next the water, and it also thus dissipates any fog that might be hanging over the surface. In a warm rain, the fish are apt to take the fly more readily than at other times. This is very likely caused by the falling of insects into the stream beaten down from the overhanging trees by the descending drops of rain, and also carried into the stream by the swelling rivulets along the shore. This addi- tional supply of food being observed by the trout, accounts for their greater activity during the rain. It is for this reason that the wise fisherman carries with him the rubber cape spoken of above. When the fisherman has filled his creel, he steps on the shore and lays his speckled beauties upon a grassy spot ready for cleaning (for every good fisherman cleans his fish before returning to camp), his eyes will behold as beautiful a picture RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 75 as was ever looked upon. The trout is a very beau- tiful fish and especially the native mountain trout. While their spots are all black, yet the many hues of their long and slender forms and the perfect proportions of their bodies and heads make a very fine picture. The fisherman cleans the fish with a knife that he carries, eats his lunch if he has not already done so; if a smoker, lights his pipe, and leisurely wends his way back to camp. The camp, if not in a ranch house, should be made in some beautiful spot, of two walled tents, one for sleeping and loafing purposes, and the other for kitchen, pantry, etc. In the sleeping tent should be a good sized cot with a comfortable bed and plenty of blankets. It should be supplied with a folding table, a folding chair, a candle-stick and candle, and if possible, a coal-oil lamp. There should be such books and magazines as satisfy the tastes of the fisherman. He has a guide with him who does the cooking, who knows how to fry fish to a turn, can make good hot biscuit, aromatic coffee, and have the meals temptingly awaiting the returning fisherman, who usually comes home tired and hungry. Mountain streams are bordered usually on both sides by high hills or mountains whose sides are covered with pine, spruce and other varieties of the evergreen tree. If the fisherman has no cot in his tent, a most comfortable bed can be made from the boughs of these evergreens, especially 76 RANCHLIFE of the silver balsam, and by patiently preparing only the extreme twigs of this tree, and by making the bed thick enough, there are no more comfort- able sleeping quarters in the world. The only objection to a bed of this kind is that if made upon the ground there are many small four-footed animals who are liable to disturb the slumbers of its occupant. This can be avoided by driving down four forked stakes at proper distances and laying cross poles in the forks for the head and foot and on these, laying proper sized poles of suf- ficient length. Evergreens can be laid on these poles. Young and vigorous fishermen seem to enjoy this sport without making themselves as thor- oughly comfortable as heretofore described, but older and more experienced men always do so, and later in life when pursuing their favorite recreation, they seek their quarters at some ranch- man's home near the stream and enjoy the warmer quarters than those furnished in a tent. Towards the close of the season, nights get colder, more rains come in the mountains, and a good bed in a comfortable cabin becomes a necessary luxury. The fisherman, in order to really enjoy the sport through the season, must not be too eager to catch a great many fish. It is wiser and more humane to catch just what will be devoured on the table, and if this can be done by fishing only every other day, or every third day, it gives a very desirable RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 77 leisure, which can be well spent in reading or writing, or wandering through the woods and studying the habits and interesting characteristics of the great variety of animals always seen in such places. The gophers and little ground squir- rels are always numerous in these mountain camps, and if not shot at but encouraged, some of them can almost be tamed. When lying in the day-time resting on the camp cot, these cunning little animals will sometimes enter the tent and perch themselves on one's shoe, looking wonder- ingly into the face of the beholder. The camp cooking will bring a great many insects, especially flies, and these like to roost on the ceiling of the tent. This makes a harvest for the bald hornets whose nests are never very far away, and they come lazily buzzing into the tent, catching the flies one at a time, and bearing them away to their nests. When a bald hornet catches a fly he holds him tight and instantly cuts off his wings. He then leisurely flies away to his nest but does not kill the fly. He is a skillful surgeon, and with his cut- ting instruments, which seem as sharp as razors, he punctures the joints of the fly at just the proper places to paralyze all movement, and then stores them away for future food. In August of every year, fishing is not the only method of pro- curing fresh food even in the mountains. Then the mountain grouse become large enough for shooting, and in the open season many of them 78 RANCH LIFE grace the table. Next to fishing itself, as a source of pleasure, the social intercourse of companions, one of whom at least every good fisherman always takes with him, is the next in enjoyment. No one likes to be alone miles from any human habita- tion, along a mountain stream and beside the solemn woods and hills, without some genial com- panion to share these with him. There are hours day and evening when the fisherman is not em- ployed in the pursuit of his game. If at this time he can have an intellectual companion, a good story teller or a fine conversationalist, the season for his outing passes much more pleasantly. There should always be in camp a good riding pony and saddle and bridle for each fisherman. He should visit the ranchmen in the immediate vicinity or some miles away, taking as a present some fish or grouse, or some artificial flies, and he will always receive in return many courtesies and remembrances that are exceedingly palatable, and he will usually find these pioneers to be men and women of more than ordinary intelligence. These ranchmen are not always skillful fishermen. Their daily toil is too arduous in harvesting their crops during the open season, and at other times they are prohibited by law from taking trout from the stream. It is a well-known custom of these mountaineers not to kill their own domestic ani- mals, aside from chickens, for their tables, but at any time of the year to have one venison which RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 79 they entirely consume before killing another. The fisherman, of course, will not be allowed by the game wardens to kill deer out of season, but if by an exchange of courtesies he can procure a ven- ison steak from a ranchman, who is a permanent resident, it adds very greatly to the pleasures of his meals. The building and keeping of a fire of the right kind in a fisherman's camp is quite an art. He should have pitched his tent on a very gently rolling plot of ground so that water would run away from the tent, and in front of the tent at a proper distance he should build a semi-circular wall of rocks laid as high as they would lie with- out falling, with the concave side toward the open flaps of the tent. A small fire in this open fire- place would be much more effective in cooking and warm the inside of the tent much more than would a flat fire without any wall behind it. These fires are easily kindled by a bundle of dry twigs broken from the extreme ends of branches of the aspen or cottonwood trees. Even in rainy weather, when all other parts of the wood may be saturated with water, these extreme ends are al- ways dry enough to be quickly lighted from a match. There should be a spring of cold water near by, if possible, for the water of the stream is not as cool and refreshing as that from a spring. It can thus be seen from this long de- scription of a fisherman's outing, what happiness 80 RANCH LIFE can be secured and why a season thus spent is so fascinating to the average man of good health and robust constitution, who is compelled to spend the rest of the year in the dull pursuit of business. THE CLOSING PERIOD. After experimenting in the way described, in this free and open country life, for a period of five years, the American thought best to draw it gradually to a close. Not that the life had become tiresome or unprofitable, for health, which was the first object of going into it, had come in abundance, nor had it been without compensation in a pecuniary way. But it had not proven to be sufficiently profitable or agreeable to make it a life occupation. With previous knowledge in farming and stock-raising, and a more natural adaptation to these occupations, there is no doubt that it could have been made of sufficient pecuni- ary profit to induce its continuance. But other lines of business more congenial and more under- stood offered better inducements with much less anxiety and much less exertion. The last sheep were sold in 1875. In 1876 business connections in the City of Pueblo were formed, and while the residence on the home ranch was kept up for four years thereafter, yet as rapidly as possible the odds and ends of the stock and dairy business RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 81 were closed out and the sale of ranches went on as circumstances would permit. From March, 1876, to the summer of 1880, a daily drive into the town in the morning and a drive back to the ranch in the evening, formed a part of the regular duties of life. The Denver & Rio Grande Railroad entered Pueblo in 1872 and the Santa Fe Railroad in March, 1876. Both these roads soon thereafter built their lines up the Arkansas valley through the home ranch to the coal fields near Canon City. The Denver & Rio Grande built its line on the south side and the Santa Fe on the north side ; the latter road bed running between the house and the barn. The country also began to fill up rapid- ly more farmers and gardeners came in. The bottom lands were cleared and fenced and stock thus cut off from access to the water of the river. The former range was being rapidly bought from the government by private parties, and grazing upon the public lands soon became a thing of the past. The town of South Pueblo was laid out in 1872, and by 1880 Pueblo began to put on metropolitan proportions. New additions were being made to the city from year to year, buildings were being rapidly erected, and when the first smelter was erected in 1878, the steel works in 1881, there were altogether too many attractions in business of all kinds and in every line to justify a continu- 82 RANCHLIFE ance in the slower prospects of a ranch life. In 1880 the residence in the country was given up. The ranches were sold, and the glorious experi- ence, begun ten years before, became entirely a thing of the past. The Denver & Rio Grande Railroad was continued to Leadville after the dis- covery of carbonates, and eventually built into the extreme southwest part of Colorado, when the discoveries of silver ores in the San Juan Moun- tains built up Durango, Silverton, Ouray and eventually all the towns that are now spread along the southwestern slope from the south boundary line to Grand Junction. Colorado remained a territory until 1876. In that year it was admitted into the Union as a state, and hence is called the Centennial State. Its growth from that time has been exceedingly rapid. The mining of the precious metals ex- panded to gigantic proportions, and farming grad- ually replaced stock-raising. It is now not profit- able in the Arkansas valley to conduct the stock- growing business as it was done prior to 1876. There are thousands of cattle and sheep fed and marketed, but they are not grazed upon the public lands except to a very limited extent. They are fed and more surely fattened on farms with al- falfa and other farm products, while thousands of sheep are driven every year from New Mexico and fed the beet pulp from the beet sugar manufact- uries, so many of which are doing such a large RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 83 business in the valley. Other railroads built into Pueblo in the later years. The Denver & Rio Grande was extended to Salt Lake City the San- ta Fe to Denver and from La Junta in the valley a branch of that road was built to San Francisco. Everything has been transformed. Pueblo has grown beyond any early expectations, while Den- ver with a population of over two hundred thou- sand, is not only the capital of the state, but the business center of a mountain empire. It has been curious to watch the advance in land values, especially in ranches with sufficient water rights to insure irrigation for farming. The home ranch in its first sale was not sold in entirety. That part lying north of the river has changed hands several times in these long years. The cultivatable part of it which could be covered by a ditch from the river was divided into small tracts, and these tracts sold to gardeners and hor- ticulturists, first at a comparatively low price, but when it was found by experiment that the very finest celery could be raised upon this sage brush land, its price rose to four and five hundred dol- lars an acre. Some of it has been rented at $25.00 per acre. A part of it was plotted into town lots and given the name of the "West End Addition." Pueblo's City Park, which lies on the south side of the river, and occupies a hundred seventy-five acres of ground, reaches almost to the ranch on the south side. New and better roads have been 84 RANCH L II FE built, and all in all the transformation from a little stock ranch in 1870 to what it is in 1914, was? never anticipated by the pioneer resident, and those pioneers could now scarcely recognize in the city of Pueblo, and its environment, the old features which they loved so well. Of course, forty-four years should bring great changes in any well-conditioned region, but no such changes as those just described, could occur except in' a state with great resources, not only for commer- cialism, but attractive also for its physical features. The mountains stand as grand as in 1870, the skies are just as blue, the sunshine is just as bountiful, the climate the same as forty-four years ago. What man has done has not affected in the least the forces of nature, has not changed a single natural law, nor added to or subtracted from any of these great natural features. Yet changes are occurring in the mountains and on the plains. The wind, the rain and the frost are gradually denuding the mountain tops, but no change can be noticed in the life-time of a man. But the puny efforts of the latter in building cities, cultivating farms, delving into the mountain rocks for precious metals, building railroads, turning the water of the streams on to the land, make changes quickly observable but of like shortness of duration. After accomplishing these great things, man thinks himself the lord of the earth ; RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 85 he thinks he is subduing nature to his own pur- poses ; he thinks he is changing the laws of nature and harnessing them to his own chariot; but the world, notwithstanding, still revolves on its axis and moves in its orbit around the sun as it always did. The sun still sends light, heat and electricity to the planet. The eleven motions of the earth never change at any moment for the benefit of mankind. Man is a late product on the surface of the earth and did not appear until long after the earth assumed its present form and motions, and it is altogether likely that the same described operations of nature will continue long after man and all his works have disappeared. Man is con- stantly reaching out to know the meaning of it all. He will perhaps never know why things exist just as they are. But a limited knowledge enables him to adapt himself to the laws of nature, and thus he can support and continue his life and the per- petuation of that life, which are facts plainly visi- ble to his senses and are perhaps all that are really necessary to his welfare, but in no sense does he control any law of nature. That law con- trols him, and unless he adapts himself to it, his existence will be quickly brought to a close. The farmers of Colorado, to whom the irriga- tion of their farms is so irksome, hope and think that sometime the rainfall will increase sufficient- ly to do away with the necessity of irrigation. The farmers of dry land have still more cause for ex- 86 RANCH LIFE ercising this hope, but if they would study the statistics of the Weather Bureau, scientifically, it would be discovered that there is no real ground for such hope. The valley of the Nile in Egypt has been irrigated for thousands of years. It is still being irrigated, and there is no record of any increase in the rainfall in all that long stretch of time. It is not probable that Nature has a dif- ferent law in the semi-arid region of the Rocky Mountains. But the fact that the farmer in this region should get firmly fixed ill his brain, is that when rain falls upon the unbroken ground it is but little absorbed and quickly flows away into the adjoining streams. But when broken, the same ground will more readily absorb the rain that does fall, and the deeper it is plowed, and the more thoroughly it is worked into a fine tilth, the more moisture it will absorb and the less of it will evaporate after it is absorbed. This con- servation of the moisture that does come to the surface of the earth, whether it be by rain or snow, is infinitely better for the prosperity of the farmer than a vague hope and a vain thinking that there will be any increase in the rainfall. No one in the spring of 1870 could have reasonably predicted the great growth in farming in Colo- rado that came to it as the years passed by. It is wiser to look at the facts as they exist, than to risk a false judgment of what the future may bring, but at least there is no risk in saying that RANCH LIFE IN COLORADO 87 Colorado is still growing, notwithstanding there may be a decline in the production of its mines, and that by a proper conservation from the great water-shed of the Rocky Mountains within her borders, farming and all the business that de- pends upon that industry will continue to grow in the future in more wonderful proportions than it has grown in the past. The great region west of the Missouri river will yet be covered by a gigantic irrigating canal taken from the head waters of that stream, and into that canal will flow all the waste waters of the streams between that and the foot of the mountains. When this shall be accomplished, and it is feasible, no man can now tell what the great results to the country will be. HISTORIC PUEBLO City building is a chapter in sociology of great interest to the philosopher. But the reason for the founding of a city, supposing any strict reason for it, would be very instructive. Men do not al- ways build cities on the sites first selected. In other words nature, not man, determines finally where they shall be built. The selection of sites is governed by the concentrated requirements of commercial evolution such as the soil; the con- tiguity of wood, or coal, or iron; hygienic envir- onment ; and convenience of transportation, natur- al or artificial. Should man be so foolish as to violate these natural requirements he would suffer the penalty by failure. For instance, if those who, by their early set- tlement here, unconsciously selected Pueblo for the site of a city had been governed by estheticism and not by so-called requirements of physical necessities, it certainly would have been located away from the irregular bluffs and arroyas con- tiguous to the river. As it is, the city has grown over and around these, and in time, when the hard necessity of daily toil shall bring wealth and HISTORIC PUEBLO 89 refinement to its citizens, the unsightly places can be made beautiful by the hand of man. The orig- inal pioneer inhabitants gave no thought to the mere beauty or ugliness of sites. A running stream, a spring of water, plenty of surrounding grass and timber, where, of course, would be also deer, or antelope, or buffalo for food, were the compelling, and to the pioneer the most beautiful, conditions. The pioneer had neither the leisure nor the ability to admire that which was not use- ful to him. The miner, for instance, was not usually an educated man of leisure and refine- ment, other than in the heart qualities of hospital- ities and sympathy. But the location of placer gold in paying quantities, was always a beauti- ful spot to him, whatever the surroundings might be. The pioneer was his own farmer, baker, cook, tailor, butcher, nor had he any telephone by which he could order his dinner at the hotel miles away and whirl himself there in an automobile. The pioneer life, however, was a necessary step in the evolution of cities from mere sites of cities. It necessarily preceded, and was the essential fore- runner of the very much more desirable advance which the present generation is making. Those who braved the native Indian tribes lived in a primitive age and performed well the require- ments of it, were happy and contented, and are entitled to our everlasting gratitude. Those of 90 RANCH LIFE them who came into the Arkansas valley rescued it from a savage race, who did not occupy a thou- sandth part of it, who did not make any use of its endless resources; who would neither till the soil, nor extract the coal, and metals, from the moun- tains, nor allow any one else to do so ; who did not welcome immigration; but repelled it with mur- derous savagery. The refined, the fastidious, the dilettante, could not penetrate the unknown desert and perform the rough work of a pioneer. The pioneer had no thought of city building. That was done by those who came after him. Yet the pioneers made settlements on the sites where cities had to be built. Unconsciously, by following the natural requirements of human needs, they chose the sites of cities. It would be difficult to determine just when, and in whose brain, the definite idea of a city at Pueblo first originated; certainly it was not prior to the advent of a railway and smelters, after the discovery of carbonates at Leadville. Those who now live here and study the situation, seeing how wise the first settlers were in selecting this loca- tion, on account of the water, soil, climate, and facilities of transportation, all think that our city, having its foundation laid in the adaptability of the natural conditions, will continue to grow to much larger dimensions; and the present in- habitants are the real city builders upon the site our forerunners selected. New York, Philadelphia HISTORIC PUEBLO 91 and Boston were natural seaports, and grew upon the ground first occupied by the earliest immi- grants. Cincinnati and Chicago did not grow upon the actual locations first selected for them, but like a water turtle, immediately turned to- ward the streams, and then grew like a willow tree, when placed where the water reaches its roots. Chicago flourished best in the swamp adja- cent to the Chicago river, a natural harbor, and compelled its citizens, willy-nilly, to expend mil- lions of dollars in lifting the city above the swamp and bringing the adjacent high ground where the city failed to grow, to the place where it would grow. The mountain thus literally came to Ma- homet. The lakes, of course, are the determining factor in locating the cities of Chicago, Milwau- kee, Detroit, Cleveland, Buffalo and Toledo, and numerous other lesser cities. But second to the lakes as promoters of city building in localities adjacent to an ocean or lake, are the mouths of rivers which furnish good harbors for transporta- tion, also the banks of any navigable stream. After railroads expanded into great lines of com- mercial traffic, it was possible to build cities away from oceans, lakes and navigable rivers, such as Indianapolis, Indiana; Columbus, Ohio, and At- lanta, Georgia. Lexington, Kentucky, is an older city than Cincinnati, or Louisville, but it was not on the Ohio river and did not develop into a large city. 92 RANCHLIFE Another curious fact in the location of cities in the United States is that generally they are lo- cated on the west sides of streams running north or south or bodies of water. The tide of emigra- tion toward the west seems to be the factor in this tendency. The growth is toward the west. St. Louis, Kansas City and Omaha, are samples of this tendency in the newer west, as well as Chi- cago, Milwaukee and Cincinnati in the middle west. The great region west of the Missouri river did not grow into importance until the through lines of railroad were built. Its streams were largely unnavigable. But they furnished the water level for the railroad grades and along these the pioneer settlements had already necessarily been established. The pioneer was compelled to locate near water and such locations also con- tained timber and the best grazing ; these features indicated the most fertile land. By reason of these natural features the early pioneers found the region of the confluence of the Fountain and Arkansas rivers a good site for a city surrounded by wide bottoms, good timber, plenty of grazing and near the mountains where afterwards mining became very profitable ; whose barriers stopped for a time further westward treking and where game was plenty. It was not only in the line of travel from the east, but in that from the north and south, being on the first level land east of the rough mountain region to HISTORIC PUEBLO 93 the west. The Arkansas valley from the begin- ning remained a great highway for travel from St. Louis, Independence and Westport, Missouri, toward the Pacific coast or into the Rocky Moun- tains. Some trappers of the American Fur Com- pany, established by the elder John Jacob Astor, operated in this region and made Pueblo their winter quarters. Here came the buyers of furs, all for the American Fur Company, to meet the trappers and trade or purchase their collections. In 1840 the location was considered of so much importance that at least not later than 1842, a fort was built for the better protection of the perma- nent residents, and of the trappers and sojourn- ers, against the Arapahoes, Cheyennes and Kio- was, who were troublesome. The first white child was born here August 17th, 1846. Her maiden name was Sarah Kirchner. Now her married name is Sarah Miller. There certainly was not another location at that time within the present boundaries of Colorado with so large a population of white people. It is true, that most of these were only temporary citizens, who remained only a few months, that is, through one winter. But, they lingered as long as they did because it was a desirable location in which to reside, and conse- quently a good location for a city. They found the winter mild, grazing good, and game plenty. It was easy to raise crops in the rich soil of the bottoms, which could be irrigated from cheaply 94 RANCH LIFE constructed ditches, taking water from the Arkan- sas river. John Hunt, then 13 years old, was here in 1846. He attended the 18th Irrigation Con- gress from Arizona, which met at Pueblo in 1910. The special party which wintered at Pueblo in 1846-7 were induced to come to this point, because assured they could here get supplies. It seems, however, that the supplies, other than the plentiful game, consisted of corn and cornmeal. These they did not obtain at Pueblo, but from the Hardscrabble and the region west of Pueblo, there being some farmers on the Hardscrabble creek and a rude corn mill in that region. Why were these people at that particular place, and where did they come from? Their presence there can be accounted for as follows: about 1822, Colonel Wm. Bent made a rude fort at the mouth of the Hardscrabble, and established there his trading post. Under the protection of that fort, and the facility of obtaining supplies from Bent's store, undoubtedly those trappers of furs who had drifted up the Arkansas river, or who had come from Santa Fe, or Taos, in the south, settled on the Hardscrabble, or on the Arkansas river as far up as where Canon City now stands. They could get no further west without climbing the moun- tains. For some reason, Bent moved later from the Hardscrabble to where Las Animas town is now located on the Arkansas river. The probable reason is that he found the Hardscrabble too far HISTORIC PUEBLO 95 west to catch any travel from either the north or south. The north and south trail parallel with the mountains ran up the Plum or Cherry creek from the South Platte, and down the Fountain to the Arkansas. From the Arkansas it would naturally follow either the Huerfano, St. Charles, or Purgatoire. So that the mouth of the Foun- tain, or of the Purgatoire, and not the Hardscrab- ble offered the best points to catch the travel coming from the north, east and south. Bent chose the mouth of the Purgatoire; and after- wards, the old Santa Fe trail, which was first traveled in 1824, branched off from the Arkansas river and followed south up that stream. But also many travelers kept on up the Arkansas to Pueblo, and then turned south. It turned out that Bent's fort near Las Animas did not become the nucleus of a city, but that the mouth of the Foun- tain, where in 1840 a small fort was built, did become such nucleus. This occurred because na- ture had provided a natural line of communica- tion between the Platte and Arkansas rivers, by the water levels of the streams mentioned, upon which the trails, wagon roads, and railways in succession were forced to be made, whether man so desired it or not. The Hardscrabble was too far west, and the Purgatoire, or Las Animas river too far east to catch the tide of travel which eventually set in along this natural trail from north to south along the eastern foot of the Rocky 96 RANCHL1FE Mountains. Now, since the Grand Canon of the Arkansas fifty miles west of Pueblo, gave a low grade for a railway through the Rocky Mountains toward the Pacific Ocean, Pueblo has the advant- age of being a railroad center of through lines from east, west, north and south. No other point on the Arkansas river nor any other point in Colo- rado could give this combination of fortunate ad- vantages. There is little recorded history of Pueblo be- tween 1846 and 1854, the date of the massacre in the fort ; nor from that year until 1858. In 1858 gold was discovered in the sands of Cherry creek near where Denver now stands, and the Pike's Peak immigration began from the east- ern states. Several parties of immigrants came through Pueblo by the way of the Arkansas river, notably that led by Green Russell. In this party was the late Judge L. B. Gibson and Mr. John D. Miller, Otto Wineke, Mr. Josiah Smith, and Charles D. Peck came that year. During the next year, or two, they were joined by S. S. Smith, W. H. Young, Matthew Steele, 0. H. P. Baxter, G. M. Chilcot, G. A. Hinsdale, Mark G. Bradford, Colonel Francisco and others. ^ A new settlement was made near where the /Walter's Brewery is now located, and called Foun- tain City. But that did not grow. In 1860 or 1861 the region now known as lower Santa Fe Avenue, north of the river, was chosen by a num- HISTORIC PUEBLO 97 ber of the settlers as the proper place to build houses, and from the feeble start then made the present city of Pueblo has developed. The Arkan- sas river then ran close to First Street where it crosses Santa Fe Avenue. It is stated that one Jack Wright built the first house at the foot of Santa Fe Avenue. Colonel A. G. Boone, a nephew of the famous Daniel Boone, opened a store ; and Emory Young was the first child born in the new location. But he came 14 years later than the real first white baby in 1846. The name given to Pueblo in 1840 has clung to it ever since, because it was appropriate, meaning a village. The town, governed by trustees, was organ- ized in the winter of 1859-60, but not incorpor- ated until 1870. The county was founded in 1862, and then included all the territory now contained in the counties of Pueblo, Bent, Otero, Prowers, Huerfano and Las Animas, with 0. H. P. Baxter, R. L. Wooten and William Chapman as County Commissioners, and Stephen S. Smith as County Clerk. Judge Allen A. Bradford was the District Judge. Mr. Smith is still a citizen of Pueblo. Judge A. A. Bradford was afterward one of the Supreme Judges of the Territory, and was twice elected delegate from the Territory to Congress. Pueblo is indebted to him for the acquisition by the coun- ty, of the tract of land known as the County Ad- dition on which the present Court House is lo- cated. 98 RANCH LIFE The United States recorded census of 1870 shows that Pueblo had a population of six hun- dred and sixty-six. It has made continuous growth since that time. In 1880 it was about six thou- sand in the two towns of Pueblo and South Pueblo. In 1890, twenty-four thousand five hundred and fifty-four in the consolidated city ; in 1900, twenty- eight thousand one hundred and fifty-seven; and in 1910, forty-four thousand three hundred and ninety-five. In 1870 the population of Colorado was less than forty thousand, and of the County of Pueblo two thousand two hundred and sixty-five. The Rio Grande Railway came in 1872; and the first depot was located about where the rail- road section house now stands at the Mineral Pal- ace Park grounds. Prior to that date the passen- ger traffic was done by one stage coach daily from Denver, as before mentioned. The first regular court in Pueblo was held by Judge Allen A. Bradford. A historical writer of Pueblo County made this statement in 1881: "Court was held in an adobe building on Santa Fe Avenue, near Third Street, until 1872, when the present handsome structure, the finest court house in the state, was erected." The writer is not now living, and of course, would be astonished, if still living, to see the fine Court House now standing upon the site of the one he so praised. The first hotel was kept by Aaron Simms, fol- lowed soon after by another kept by John B. Rice. HISTORIC PUEBLO 99 These hotels were not very large and palatial, nor did they furnish Delmonico meals. The first postmaster was Stephen S. Smith, followed by Aaron Simms. In 1862 the United States mail came from Denver alone and the serv- ice once a week. Afterwards a stage line was es- tablished, first by A. Jacobs, who was succeeded by Barlow and Sanderson, who ran the line until the D. & R. G. Railway came in 1872. Mr. J. A. Thatcher came in 1862, as a mer- chant in a small way. About 1863 the first school house a small frame on the west side of Santa Fe Avenue, be- tween Fourth and Fifth Streets was built by private subscription, Miss Weston being the school teacher a small forerunner of the present large system. The first regular religious services were held in this school house in 1864. Dr. M. Beshoar, a late citizen of Trinidad, founded the Chieftain as a weekly newspaper in 1868. Samuel McBride was the mechanicalhead, and George A. Hinsdale and Wilbur F. Stone, the editors. It was printed on the spot where the present Chieftain office stands. St. Peter's Church, still standing on the corner of Seventh Street and Santa Fe Avenue, was erected in 1868, being the first building used ex- clusively for church purposes. It was considered at that time to be out of town, only two buildings being north of it. 100 RANCH LIFE In 1870 the six hundred and sixty-six inhabi- tants all dwelt on the nort hside of the river; Mr. Klaas Wildeboor lived on the south side, where his present house is located. William H. Young had a private bridge across the Arkansas river near the present D. & R. G. Railway bridge. Baxter's grist mill stood on the site of the present beautiful public build- ing. Thatcher Brothers had a general store on the southeast corner of Fourth and Santa Fe in an adobe building. They also did a banking busi- ness, and in 1871 founded the First National Bank. Only two brick dwellings existed in the town, but the jail was made of brick of so pale a color that the building had the appearance of an adobe. They were the first bricks made here. An adobe school building just erected stood on the ground now occupied by the Centennial School. George M. Chilcott and Wilbur F. Stone lived in adobe houses on the opposite corners of Sixth and Santa Fe, where they still stand. The National Hotel was located at 405 North Santa Fe Avenue. The name was the biggest part of it. Its former proprietor, a Mr. Cook, had died in 1870. Next to it on the corner of Fourth and Santa Fe was an adobe one-story building used by a Mr. Scidmore as an agricultural implement ^tore. The only brick building on Santa Fe Avenue, the dwelling, No. 806, still standing with its gable HISTORIC PUEBLO 101 to the street, had just been built by Lewis Conley, a very enterprising contractor. Weldon Keeling lived in a one-story frame corner of Tenth and Santa Fe; the next house south then occupied by C. J. Hart as a dwelling, is still standing; the next John A. Thatcher's residence corner of Ninth. Cooper Brothers occupied as a tin shop the frame building still standing at 513 Santa Fe Avenue. Henkel & Thomas had a bakery on the east side of Santa Fe south of Sixth Street. The El Pro- gresso building belonging to George Hall stood on the southwest corner of Third and Santa Fe Ave- nue and his dwelling was opposite where the Hob- son Block now stands. Guilford Court House Budd, a black man, lived on the side of the bluff south of George Hall; he was the barber. The Post Office was just south of Fourth Street in a frame building, J. W. 0. Snyder, the postmaster. The Drovers Hotel, kept by Harry E. A. Pickard, faced on Santa Fe Avenue between Second and Third and next door lived Com. Wetmore. 0. H. P. Baxter's mill and residence stood on Main on op- posite corners of Fifth Street. The ditch furnish- ing the water power to the mill ran through the mill and crossed Main Street at the alley beween the Central Block and the McCarthy building just south of Frank Pryor's store. There was nothing south of the mill ditch except a heavy growth of willows, and nothing south of the river except one log house in the Grove near where Clark's well 102 RANCH LIFE and hotel are now located. The river, which now runs straight, then ran very crooked, with a sharp bend to the north. South Pueblo did not exist until 1872, after the D. & R. G. Railroad was built. Then a road was opened now called Union Avenue and a wood- en bridge erected over the river. Lower Santa Fe Avenue, lower Main, Union Avenue and the streets west and south of Fourth and Main have all been filled for several feet, thus greatly chang- ing the grade of the streets and altering the aspect of that part of the city. The present city has obliterated the contour and topographic features of the old town of 1870. The filling up of the mill ditch, the changing the river channel, the opening of extensions of the old streets, cutting down some and filling the low stretches of streets with six or eight feet of dirt, the building of numerous bridges across both the Arkansas and the Foun- tain, but more especially the building of dwellings, business blocks and other edifices necessary for a population of fifty thousand, in place of six hun- dred and sixty-six, have so metamorphosed the old town of 1870, that even those who resided here then cannot with the most vivid imagination re- call, except in faintest memory, what the appear- ance of the Pueblo of 1870 really was. George A. Hinsdale lived near the corner of Fourth and Main in a one-story adobe. He died in January, 1874. He was a lawyer, a man of HISTORIC PUEBLO 103 intellect, and a prominent citizen. His memory is honored, by the state in giving his name to Hins- dale County, and locally in Pueblo by naming after him the Hinsdale public school. There was little on Main Street in his day. Could he see it now, especially the corner of Fourth and Main, he could not possibly recognize it. Absolutely noth- ing remains in that region which was there at the time of his death. Could he revisit the place in 1914 he would see the same natural features of mountains, plains and sky, but scarcely a human face that he would recognize and not a single building on Main Street with which he was famil- iar in 1874. Men and the handiwork of men change abso- lutely in a few years in this great growing west, but nature changes so slowly and uniformly that could Lieutenant Zebulon Pike in a hundred years from now revisit the location of his camp on this spot in 1806, he would see the same "great white peak" named after him, and if he calculated at that time the latitude, the longitude and the eleva- tion, he would find that these were the same as they were in 1806. But he would raise his hands and brows in utter bewilderment at beholding the great changes made by the hand of man. It is thus apparent that nature has no time, as it is conceived by man and that what man calls time is simply his consciousness of changes in phenom- ena. If there were no changes recognizable by 104 RANCH LIFE us in such phenomena as the rotation of the earth on its axis, its annual revolution in its orbit, the birth, growth and death of organisms, the speedy decay of all that is made by the brains and hands of man, we should not be conscious of that pe- culiar conception we call "Time." Therefore, liv- ing, forty years in Pueblo County means the un- changing aspect of natural earth and skies, but the rapid and very noticeable changes constantly occurring in the puny works of man. Allan A. Bradford was a delegate to Con- gress in 1870. He, Henry C. Thatcher, Wilbur F. Stone, George A. Hinsdale, George M. Chilcott, George Q. Richmond and James McDonald were the lawyers. None of these are now living in Pueblo. All are dead except Wilbur F. Stone and George Q. Richmond. Henry C. Thatcher after- wards became Chief Justice, and Wilbur F. Stone an Associate Justice of the State Supreme Court. George Q. Richmond became a member of the Court of Appeals. George M. Chilcott was twice a delegate to Congress, and very efficient in pro- curing federal legislation beneficial to this terri- tory. When in 1882 Senator H. M. Teller was ap- pointed in President Arthur's Cabinet as Secre- tary of the Interior, Mr. Chilcott was appointed by Governor F. W. Pitkin to fill Mr. Teller's unex- pired term in the United States Senate. He took his seat April 17th, 1882. "The United States Land Office in Pueblo was HISTORIC PUEBLO 105 opened in 1871, and sold 80,719 acres of govern- ment land that year." The development in 1871 was quite large, being only the effect of the pros- pect of the coming of the D. & R. G. Railway which did not reach the city until June, 1872. The entire business of this town at that date, was transacted on Santa Fe Avenue from First to Sixth Streets. General Samuel Brown of Denver, said that when he was United States District At- torney, prior to 1870, whenever he came to Pueblo, he always occupied the best room in the hotel, which was the hay-mow. It was very comforta- bly furnished when the guest brought his own blankets. The Southern Ute Indians passed through once a year, and always camped near town for a few days. Their picturesque appearance lent color and quaintness to the streets. Their big chiefs always rode ; and in going from one store to an- other would always mount their ponies, even if the distance was only a half block, carrying the ends of the lariats across the sidewalks into the stores, the cayuse ponies being tied to the other ends in the street. These Indians spoke Spanish and a little English; but used few words. Signs and gesticulations make up the larger part of the real Indian language. One day an Indian was trying to buy some coffee. He laid down a ten- cent piece on the counter saying, "coffee, ten cent, swap." The grocer weighed out the coffee but 106 RANCHLIFE while it yet lay in the scale the quantity not satis- fying the ideas of the Indian, he picked up the coin, merely saying "no swap" and walked out. In 1872 the court house, lately torn down, was built. The coming of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway was celebrated in the new court house by a meeting addressed by Grace Greenwood and other speakers. The first city government was formed in 1873, a mayor and council taking the place of former town trustees. In 1876 the original Centennial school house was built and in 1879 the Insane Asylum established, with forty patients. Good climate has much to do with the growth of a city, although we must remember that St. Petersburg, built by Peter the Great, in almost an artic region, sixty degrees north latitude, is as nearly an artificial city as man can produce. But Peter had the resources of an immense empire at his control with which to work. The example is too costly to be followed, especially in a republic like ours, where cities are built, not by emperors, but by poor people who seek a milder climate in which food can be cheaply produced. A feature of the fitness of the locality in which Pueblo is situated for a thriving city, is found in the high average temperature of the valley in which it is situated. The isothermal line, indicat- ing fifty-two degrees Farenheit yearly average, takes in Pueblo and Canon City by a sharp loop HISTORIC PUEBLO 107 leaving out the contiguous region. This is the highest average temperature in Colorado on its slope east of the mountains. This means grass, vegetables and fruit, earlier than in other regions. It means a milder winter climate. It puts a higher percentage of sugar in the beets and more in- tensely sweetens the famous cantaloupes. The moisture is only twelve inches yearly on the aver- age. The scant rainfall and the numerous sun- shiny days insure the nutrition of the range grass in the winter, account for the clear at- mosphere so delicious to breathe, produce a climate unsurpassed and exceedingly attractive for happy homes and contentment. Prior to its acquisition under the Treaty of Guadeloupe Hidalgo, following the Mexican war of 1847, the territory south of the Arkansas river belonged to Mexico. South Pueblo lies upon a part of the Nolan grant of 48,000 acres derived from the government of Old Mexico. The same persons who built the Denver & Rio Grande Rail- way formed a corporation called "The Colorado Coal and Iron Company" and acquired this grant. It lies in the triangle formed by the Arkansas and St. Charles rivers and the Greenhorn mountains. This company established the city of South Pueblo, which in 1886 was consolidated with old Pueblo. The real growth of Pueblo dates from the ad- vent of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway. The 108 RANCH LIFE coming of that railway more than doubled the population in a short time but the coming of the Santa Fe Railway in March, 1876, did not produce that effect. The building of the Steel Works in 1881 again doubled the population in two years. After the discovery of carbonates at Leadville and the extension of the D. & R. G. Railway up the Arkansas river to that place, Mather and Geist commenced the establishment of smelters. When to these facts are added the later discovery of im- mense beds of coal near by, the building of a city of great importance at this point followed as naturally as that railways are constructed along water levels. Now, in the year 1914, with smelters, steel works, several railways, wholesale commercial houses, manufacturing in various lines, thousands of miles of irrigating ditches in the Arkansas valley and the consequent cultivation of 500,000 acres of irrigated land tributary to the city, the before mentioned pioneer features of the locality have been obliterated. In those days Arkansas river water was selling for 25c a barrel on the streets without either ice or filtration and no thought was then entertained that the river water was anything but pure and healthy. To have lived for forty years in a community and witnessed its growth from an insignificant village to a fair-sized city is a most interesting experience. It would be still more interesting to HISTORIC PUEBLO 109 one who has lived here so long to witness the growth during the next four decades. The founda- tion only has yet been laid. The superstructure is yet to arise. As the area of agricultural land and the variety and quantity of mineral products shall grow, so will the manufacturing industry and the population increase in like ratio. No pioneer ever thought that any more land could come under cultivation than could be covered by the primitive and rudely constructed ditches taken directly from the streams. But now when flood water and sur- face waters are being conserved in every arroya and the underflow is being brought to the surface, the probable number of acres that may eventu- ally be cultivated on the eastern water shed of the Rocky Mountains cannot now be estimated. A large city will gradually develop here parallel with the growth of the country. Larger manufac- turing plants, more palatial residences, more blue grass lawns, finer and more numerous schools and churches will grace the mesas and bluffs ; and, over all, the glorious sunshine from cloudless skies will continue to shine, giving more abundant life and power to a healthful, happy and long lived race of Anglo-Saxon white people. This will not be done in a few years. The possibilities of growth will remain as long as the Rocky Mountains rear their rugged heads into the clear blue of the empyrean. "All things come to him who waits" is not a truism confined to the individual alone, 110 RANCHLIFE but can well apply to the race, especially to the white race which speaks the English language. It is even now within the vision of some men in Colorado that our state can and will eventually support a population of four or five millions. The development of a municipality has been likened to that of an animal organism which grows from a single aggregation of cells to a complex body. The comparison, while not altogether com- plete, yet in a crude way is true. The analogy is not perfect because the special units which make up the individual organism having un- known millions of years behind them, are more cohesive and uniform in their integration than are the social units that make up the aggregate of a community, which has had only a few thou- sand years of existence. The very early Pueblo could well be compared to a young child crude in its ways governed by no law except that of self-preservation and doing only those things which pleased itself. Nearly all the early inhabitants were adapted only to such a life. When more complex methods became necessary which required rigid city ordinances, police and fire protection, religious and moral supervision, the independent old pioneer declared it was "gittin' too civilized" and moved to newer localities better adapted to his established habits. Those who remained were the more intellectual who were able to learn the new ways and who had HISTORIC PUEBLO 111 acquired so much property, as to prevent a change of location without too great a sacrifice. The con- stant increase of population by birth and the ad- vent of newcomers, the building of new houses, the construction of railways and manufactories, the opening of new farms in the adjacent country, which gave trade to the merchants and furnished sustenance to the people, made the comparison to the growth of an animal organism a very strik- ing one. In much the same way does the blood of the body produce the cells that build up the bones and muscles ; while both the social and the animal organizations maintain themselves and enlarge their functions, by increasing their correspond- ence with a wider and more complex environment. The lines of wagon roads, the commercial rail- ways, telephones and telegraphs, which connect a city to other cities and remote regions, may well be compared with the nerves of the body through which come the sensations that give the organism its intelligence, its psychical function. These avenues of communication civilize a city, brighten its inhabitants, bring better houses, with more luxuriant furnishings, set better tables, and make schools, churches, and libraries necessities, just as the nervous system in the body produces finer mental qualities, as it becomes more complex or better trained, more facile in its correspondence with the outer world. To see for years, then, the evolution of a city, is similar to watching the de- 112 RANCH LIFE velopment of a child in body and mind. The child passes from a helpless ignorant condition, to a positive dynamic, intellectual and moral force, as its body grows and its brain expands, by means of a physical and educational environment; first in the family; then with its companions in the community; in the common schools; the higher schools, and finally at college, it is fitted for the duties and responsibilities of complex citizenship. The whole process in both a municipality and in an organism is a constant readjustment of a de- veloping organism with a constantly increasing complexity of environment, the latter being static, while the organism is the mobile factor of the adaptation. That is, the same environment is al- ways simple to the simplest organism, and com- plex also to the most heterogenous organism. For example, the astronomical-mathematical envir- onment finally reached by Sir Isaac Newton, when he discovered the principle of the attraction of gravitation, existed just as statically, that is, without change, when Newton was a baby in arms, with an environment confined to the nurs- ery; but he grew by education and study, by suc- cessive steps, until the special avenues of his brain finally reached the very complex and wide en- vironment of the universe and its laws. He was the evolving, changing factor, and not the stars and the laws of their movement. The latter had been complex, as he found them, for ages. Es- HISTORIC PUEBLO 113 pecially is the analogy between an organism, and a municipality true, when an ethical comparison is made of the iniquitous customs, which have a tendency to disorganize society, and the individ- ual habits which apparently demoralize the citi- zen. The truth is commonly expressed in the well known aphorism so much dwelt upon at present, that governments and individuals must be equally controlled by the same homely virtues of common honesty. In the early days strangers were few. Every one knew or had a speaking acquaintance, with every other one. A wonderful change has oc- curred in that one can now walk the streets and not recognize a tenth part of the people. Such a transformation is not pleasant for the older peo- ple. They sigh for "the good old times," prior to the coming of the railways. In their declining years, men and women make few friends, and the dimming eyesight fails to become familiar with the features of the young, who pass so quickly, on nimble feet. The new modes of locomotion, by bicycle, motor-cycle, automobile, and soon by fly- ing machine, are altogether too swift for the old people, who have spent the most of their lives in more deliberate methods, in walking, on horse- back, or in horse vehicles. But, in truth, the newer ways are better for the young, and more condu- cive to the proper evolution of the growing busi- ness world. The swifter methods, making it pos- 114 RANCHLIFE sible to condense the time necessary to devote to business, into fewer hours, will give more time for mental and moral training, and to conserve health, prolong life, and increase the happiness of man- kind. The added leisure which should follow the newer ways, with the intellectual habit, must give refinement to a much larger class of people. With the great increase of public schools, college and university facilities, a very large number, who, under the old and slower methods, would remain in ignorance, and in unrefined habits of life, will be added to the circle of intellectual people. It is to be hoped that this circle will enlarge until it will finally include the whole of our national population. PIONEERS An examination of the records of the Southern Colorado Pioneer Association reveals the fact that only thirty members came to Colorado as early as 1860 or before. The state was admitted in 1876, the centennial year of the declaration of independence of the United States. It has made its principal growth since that date. 1876 is, therefore, a very appro- priate year to mark the closing of the pioneer period. It is appropriate for another reason. This date gives the Southern Colorado Pioneer Associa- tion the dignified number of three hundred and fifty members. None of these three hundred and fifty members have now been in the state less than thirty-three years, and enough of them for fifty years or more to give the classic touch of ancient history which seems so attractive to the older in- habitant. It may be interesting as a historical fact to say a word about the prestige that Pueblo holds as the first important settlement of civilized peo- ple in Colorado. The following extracts are from "Semi-Cen- 116 RANCH LIFE tennial History of the State of Colorado" by Jerome C. Smiley. "A party of French traders built a trading- post upon Colorado soil prior to the year 1763 * * * * Probability points to the locality at the mouth of our Fountain Creek, in the eastern sec- tion of Pueblo, as the place where this pioneer business establishment was erected. So far as known, this structure was the first habitation built by white men in the land of Colorado; and also, so far as known, the first in the entire region of the Rockies north of the southern boundary of our state." The above extracts occur on page 43 of the history and are authenticated by reference to Gen- eral Amos Stoddard who wrote "Sketches of Louisiana." This officer, then a captain, had charge of the transfer of the upper Louisiana Purchase from France to the United States at St. Louis on March 9, 1804, the treaty of purchase having been made by President Jefferson in 1803. This fact gives to the site of Pueblo a very much more ancient importance than had been claimed for it. It seems, however, that this French trad- ing house did not remain very long. It was seized by the Spanish forces because it was located on ground then claimed to be Spanish territory. It is mentioned here simply to show that even far- ther back in history than Pike's expedition, the location of Pueblo was considered of such import- PIONEERS 117 ance as a trading point. It is only a straw to in- dicate the eminent merits of the location as a suitable site for a city. It is well known that Pike camped here with twenty-two others, con- stituting the whole of his exploring party, in November, 1806. There was no other human be- ing here at that time. Between then and 1846 three different expeditions came to this location, Major Stephen S. Long in 1819; at that time no trace of Pike's block house of 1806 remained. Fowler came in 1822. Fremont's first visit to Pueblo was in 1843. He found here at that time a number of mountaineers, principally Americans, who did some farming. He came again in 1845 and again in 1848, on his fatal passage which cost the lives of so many men and horses, in the moun- ains west of Wagon Wheel Gap. Lieutenant Pike belonged to the class of heroes of whom Christopher Columbus, Paul Jones, Lewis, Clark and Fremont are types. They form an advance guard of physical progress, intrepid, fearless, unhesitating, always triumphant in short, natural leaders. Colonel Henry Inman, of the old regular army, author of "The Old Santa Fe Trail," writes : "On the original trail where now is situated the beauti- ful city of Pueblo, the second place of importance in Colorado, there was a little Indian trading post called The Pueblo,' from which the present thriv- ing place derived its name. The Atchison, To- 118 RANCHLIFE peka & Santa Fe Railroad practically follows the same route that the traders did to reach Pueblo, as it also does that which the freight caravans later followed from the Missouri river direct to Santa Fe. The old Pueblo fort as nearly as can be determined now was built as early as 1840, or not later than 1842, and as one authority states, by George Simpson and his associates, Barclay and Doyle. James Beckwourth claims to have been the original projector of the fort and to have given the general plan and its name, in which I am inclined to believe he is correct. It was a square fort of adobe, with circular bastions at the corners, no part of the walls being more than eight feet high." It was located a short distance south of the present depot of the Atch- ison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway. The river, at the time it was built, ran close to it, but now some distance to the south of it. It was at this fort that the massacre by the Indians of seventeen men oc- curred on Christmas Day of 1854. Jacob Beard in writing a letter of late date upon this massa- cre makes the following statements: "There were two boys by the name of Sando- val (Juan Isidro and Feliz), sons of the Senior Sandoval, who was the head of the little colony, which had gathered there for the purpose of mak- ing a home and they had raised one crop and had gathered it before the trouble or massacre. They had taken up their land and planted their crop, PIONEERS 119 and gathered it ; but they had no improvements in the way of buildings, but lived in the fort. "About this time there was a report circulated that the Utes were at war, and they had been at peace for some time. The man in charge, San- doval, did not know if this was a rumor or a fact, but felt perfectly able to stand them off at the fort and was on the lookout ; but along about this time some of the party discovered a man coming toward the fort on horseback, so they all waited until he came up, knowing that the one man alone could do no harm ; and when he got there he spoke to them friendly, in the accustomed, 'how.' San- doval was well acquainted with this Ute, but came and says to him : 'We heard you were at war on the fight.' And Blanco (the Indian) answered: 'Well, it looks like it, when I come here alone to the fort.' So, they asked him in and gave him something to eat; so then, after talking a while, the chief asked Sandoval how he was on the shot. As they had often shot at target practice for lit- tle stakes several times before, this was a very natural question to make. Sandoval answered, "I think I can beat you yet.' The chief answered, 'All right; if you can, I have some nice buck skins you can win.' At that they all started out of the back door of the fort, and all the men (San- doval's men) went with them to witness this sport. They went to a big cottonwood tree and stuck up a mark to shoot at. They shot two shots 120 RANCH LIFE one shot each. (This, as later was evident, was a signal for two Indians to appear.) At that, two warriors rode up friendly, and shook hands with the party, as they were great hands to shake hands when professing to be friendly. Then, they fired four shots more at the mark, and then four more warriors rode up, and shook hands as had the other two who came previously, and acted in the same friendly manner. And then the two con- testants resumed the shooting at the mark, when the balance of the Indian party rode up the whole fifty now being on the ground. At this time they gave up the friendly shooting match. The Indian chief (Blanco) asked Sandoval if he could not give his men something to eat, as they were hungry; this he said he was willing to do, and they all went into the fort, where a meal was made ready for them to eat. And just about the time they were finishing their meal some kind of signal from the chief to his warriors must have been made, as there was a concerted action taken as they all grabbed all the arms in sight belonging to the whites and began the killing; and this con- tinued until they had them all killed, excepting the two sons of Sandoval, the head man, and one woman. The boys were seven and twelve years old. The woman who was not killed the Indians took with them as captive, and was later killed at a spring by them, so it was related by the twelve- year-old boy, son of Sandoval, after peace was PIONEERS 121 made, and he was returned to his people or the government officials or officers. "Referring again to the killing, will say: "One man was shot through the cheeks, and his tongue shot off; he only lived a few days, and it was through him that it was learned all about Tiow the massacre occurred. Poojr fellow he couldn't talk, as his tongue was gone, but he was a good sign talker he told the whole transaction from beginning to end. His name was Romaldo, but don't know his last name. This man, the only one to escape, except the woman and the two boys taken prisoners and he only escaped to live three days. In the massacre at the fort, it is likely that the woman was accidently killed when the fighting and excitement was going on." It will be noticed that James Beckwourth claims to have given the name of Pueblo to the place about 1840. There does not seem to be an- other place in Colorado which can show a legiti- mate origin as far back. It is evident that from that date to the present time it has remained a place of more or less importance, containing at all times some American inhabitants. Bent's fort was established in the Arkansas valley at an earlier date and remains to this day an important historical feature of the very early settlement of the Arkansas valley. But the location of Bent's fort was changed twice. 122 RANCHLIFE WHAT PARKMAN SAW. Francis Parkman, Jr., and his relative, Quincy A. Shaw, were young students from Boston, who had been on a schoolboy escapade among the In- dians near Fort Laramie. On their return trip they rode from Fort Laramie to Pueblo in August, 1846. Parkman published a book called "Cali- fornia and Oregon Trail," giving an account of this western trip. He states in regard to Pueblo in 1846 : "We reached the edge of a hill from which a welcome sight greeted us. The Arkansas ran along the valley below, among woods and groves, and closely nestled in the midst of wide cornfields and green meadows, where cattle were grazing, rose the low mud walls of the Pueblo." Parkman had just crossed the site where Denver now stands and had not seen a white man. He found here a number of white men, Mexicans and In- dians. A party of Mormons were encamped close by. The fields were cultivated by white men, and the curious part of the story is that every year when the corn in the fields was ripening, several thousand Arapahoe Indians came and camped around Pueblo. The few white men were entirely at their mercy and proffered them the use of the corn and the fields. The Arapahoes helped them- selves and even turned their ponies into the fields, but were cunning enough to leave sufficient corn to the farmers, to induce them to raise a crop the succeeding season. PIONEERS 123 Parkman pays this tribute to the scenery along the Arkansas river adjacent to Pueblo : "We could look down the little valley of the Arkansas; a beautiful scene, and doubly so to our eyes, so long accustomed to deserts and mountains. Tall woods lined the river, with green meadows on either hand, and high bluffs quietly basking in the sun- light, flanked the narrow valley." The Mormon families mentioned by Parkman had come to Pueblo at some time previous to August 1846. But they were joined during September, November and December of that year, by other Mormon fam- ilies. Brigham Young, the head of the Mormon colony, desiring to establish a Mormon settlement somewhere in the west applied to the government for military escort for his people. This occurred at Council Bluffs, Iowa. As the Mexican War was then being fought, it was suggested to Young that he organize a battalion from his own members. The government would muster them into the serv- ice, arm and equip them and allow them at muster- out to retain their arms and equipments. This was done and the Mormon battalion accompanied by their particular families marched in a south- west direction toward Santa Fe by altogether a different route from that taken by the main col- umn of the Mormons to Salt Lake. They crossed the Arkansas river somewhere in Kansas east of Pueblo. "At this point Captain Higgins with a guard of ten men was detailed to take a number 124 RANCHLIPE of families that accompanied the .battalion to Pueblo, a Mexican town located farther up the Arkansas river, to winter." This is the language of D. Tyler on page 157 of his history of the Mormon battalion. This was September 16, 1846. These came to join those who had already pre- ceded them, and the latter were those Parkman and Shaw saw in August, 1846. Another detach- ment was sent from the battalion on its arrival at Santa Fe, to Pueblo for the winter. They ar- rived at Pueblo November 17, and built eigh- teen rooms fourteen feet square, of timber. Still another detachment of fifty-five was sent from some point beyond Santa Fe to Pueblo to winter. This detachment arrived at Pueblo December 24, 1846. The combined Mormon detachment lived in log cabins and had plenty to eat that winter. The book says that the valley was well adapted to winter quarters. "What snow fell soon melted and there was good grazing for the animals." "On the fifteen of January, 1847, nine wagons loaded with sixty days' rations for the command arrived from Bent's fort." A part of the Pueblo detachment in May, 1847, visited the soda fountain, now Manitou, but found no settlers. On May 24, 1847, the detachment left Pueblo and marched toward Fort Laramie, on the Platte river, California being their ultimate destination, but disbanded when they arrived in Salt Lake. The following extracts are taken from "Brigham PIONEERS 125 Young and His Mormon Empire," written by George L. Knapp and Frank J. Cannon. On page 136: "A party of Mormons from Mississippi had gone west on the Santa Fe trail to Pueblo, where they passed the winter along with the invalids who had been left behind from the Mormon battalion. * * * * The invalided members of the Mormon battalion were already marching north to join their brethren." This occurred early in June, 1847. On page 148: "July 29 (1847) Captain James Brown came into camp bringing with him that part of the Mormon battalion which had been left at Pueblo, and the Mississippi Mormons who had camped there through the previous winter. Men, women and children, the newcomers numbered two hundred and forty persons, and brought with them sixty wagons, a hundred horses and mules, and some three hundred head of cattle." This oc- curred after the arrival of the colony of Mormons under Brigham Young at the site of Salt Lake City. It seems from the above record of the Mor- mon battalion that it gave no protection to rhe main column of emigrating Mormons led by Brig- ham Young. This column moved from Council Bluffs directly west to Fort Laramie in the region now called Wyoming. It is barely possible that the idea of protection by this battalion was not entertained by Brigham Young. One history says that about one hundred and 126 RANCH LIFE fifty people were living in and around the fort of Pueblo in 1847, but the above extracts from Mormon history indicate that there was a larger number. A writer describes Pueblo in 1847 thus: "A small settlement chiefly composed of old trappers and hunters; the male part of it are mostly Americans (Missourians), French Can- adians and Mexicans. It numbers about one hun- dred and fifty * * * about sixty men have wives and some have two. The wives were of various Indian tribes as follows, viz.: Black- feet, Assiniboines, Sioux, Arapahoes, Cheyennes, Snakes and Comanches." It will thus be seen that 1846 and 1847 were important years for Pueblo. The coming of Parkman and the different Mor- mon detachments gave the name and location a permanent place in history. The old trappers and hunters of Pueblo fort lived entirely upon game, and a great part of the year without bread. Pueblo was one of the points where the trappers sold their season's catch of furs to the traders who came there at certain dates to buy. In trapping and hunting these early pioneers exceeded the Indians in skill and cun- ning. The life was a hard one, but full of free- dom, which made it so attractive to these simple children of nature. Being constantly in the midst of dangers they acquired great keenness of ob- servation and skill in the use of firearms, and in fact, in all the requirements of such a wild life. PIONEERS 127 It is pleasant to think about and dwell upon the character and achievements of these early ex- plorers. They are the true leaders of men, in the making of a western empire in the Rocky and Sierra Nevada mountains. To us they assume a historical importance far superior to those who, like Daniel Webster, announced in the Senate at Washington, that this western country was an arid desert which never could be occupied by civi- lized people. Webster, as far as is known, never came farther west than Ashland, near Lexington, Kentucky, the home of Henry Clay. But Thomas H. Benton, then a United States senator from Missouri, advocated the resources of this region and favored exploration of its territory. It was he who, being the father-in-law of Fremont, pro- cured from the general government orders for Fremont's different expeditions. DEBT TO PIONEERS. The present inhabitants of Colorado are great- ly indebted to such pathfinders as Pike, Long, Fowler, Bent, Carson, Wooten, Fremont, Doyle, Beckwourth, Maxwell, Tom Tobin and Prowers, with a host of others whose names are not re- corded, but whose bravery was just as great, who made possible the present conditions in the Arkan- sas valley. These were the adventurous heroes who, in the midst of the Arapahoes, Cheyennes 128 RANCH LIFE and Utes, gained a foothold on the Arkansas river in what is now Colorado. They were the fore- runners of the present pioneers to whom we are indebted for opening up and making habitable this fruitful land of fertile soil and cloudless skies; this land, where gold, silver, lead and cop- per abound; the land of the riches of Leadville, Cripple Creek, Gilpin and San Juan. These very early Colorado pioneers will yet be held in still greater regard by the coming generations of the Arkansas valley when a fuller history of their real achievements, and the sacrifices they made, shall be written. The reward of their efforts they never enjoyed; the mineral productions, rich farms and orchard yields, those who come after them will enjoy for all time. We call ours a higher civilization, but it is not higher in achievements. True, we have brick houses, telephones, telegraphs, railroads; but these men knew how to live in tents and adobe cabins, to drive ox teams, or ride horseback with the greatest skill. They had little use for school houses or churches. The warlike environment was incompatible with either the enjoyment of religious ceremony, or the formal cultivation of the intellect. But the pioneers, who every mo- ment had to defend their lives and with most strenuous exertions procured their sustentation from the wild game and arid soil, in view of the final results to the thousands who came after PIONEERS 129 them, were learning the most useful lessons and exercising the highest type of unselfishness. This was education more important by far than any college can teach. This was the religion of science, which is the struggle for existence and the sur- vival of the fittest. They worked for the future of the white race, sacrificing themselves uncon- sciously for the benefit of those who would after- wards permanently occupy the land. They were plain people who valued a thing for its usefulness. As a rule they were not educated in the schools. The only language they knew was the western vernacular; but at the same time they were most highly educated in being strictly "on to their job." Their work was of the highest importance to the present inhabitants of Colorado, and we should not let the memory of their deeds and their real character, hidden beneath a rough exterior, die out. They made the most exciting era in the his- tory of the white race in deeds of real valor, with no thought of their own aggrandizement, and with the most unselfish hospitality. They were cruel only to their enemies, to those who would murder them. To their friends they were the embodiment of kindness. Whatever faults or shortcomings may characterize the western pioneers, timidity was not one of them. Their physiques were of the tough and enduring kind. Their courage was never wanting. Their brains, while not always tending toward theological, literary or scientific 130 RANCH LIFE thought, were quickly responsive to the practical requirements of their environment. Nature was kind to them because they were attentive to her. With axes, rifles and plenty of ammunition they boldly penetrated the miscalled "Great American Desert," and subdued the primitive savage who, in open defiance of the pressing necessity for geo- graphical expansion of the crowded population of other regions, refused to share in peace with them this bqundless and almost uninhabited region. They proved that domestic animals would flourish where only wild game before existed, and that, instead of a desert, the finest soil here lay fallow, making the most profitable agriculture possible. Then, when by their indomitable courage and skill they had thus opened up the way for the com- ing of the more timid and less unselfish brothers whom they had left in the crowded and stagnant surroundings of the east, they magnanimously surrendered the field of wealth and empire their own arms had won, and moved on to conquer new worlds for other coming generations. Those who are now (1914) enjoying the terri- tory thus acquired, should honor in every possible manner the achievements of the pioneers, and hand the memory of them unsullied down to fu- ture generations. The freedom and naturalism of those days will never return. They live only in tradition, song and story. The Indians no longer roam the Arkansas val- PIONEERS 131 ley; the ranchman and the cowboy have evolved into the farmer and horticulturist ; the buffalo and antelope are no more; the ox team and its driver are superseded by the railroad train. We, who have experienced some of these forerunners of civilization, know that the ruder conditions were useful in their day and brought as much happi- ness to the participants as the present conditions bring to the people of this day. Each condition has its repulsive features. But it is doubtful whether there is more true man- hood or less inhumanity, except in form, now than in the pioneer days of 1846. The human evolu- tion into new forms of society, into new morals, into more intellect, is ever going on. But there goes with every phase of the evolution a taint of the former conditions, and perhaps, however high humanity may yet rise, its roots must still remain in the soil of its lowly origin. We can never get away from human traits, nor from those of the lower forms of animals from which we are de- scended. The persistency of these traits should convince us that perhaps it is not best that we should get away from them. At any rate, we are so closely connected in ties of time and blood with those early pioneers that our lives of which we boast, may not be really better in true moral- ity, in real dignity of character, in the homely virtues of honesty and service to mankind. Each period of man's existence on earth has 132 RANCH LIFE its peculiar problems to solve. The work of the pioneers of the Arkansas valley from 1846 to 1868 was to replace the savage or barbarous tribes of redmen with the civilized race of white men. It was an irrepressible conflict, which the redman met in the only way he could understand. He fought and died for his home. In ignorance, he made many treaties that in the nature of things could not be kept. He was cruel in his method because he knew no other method. The whole con- flict was a part of the universal struggle for ex- istence constantly going on throughout nature. The fittest survived, but during the struggle deeds were enacted on both sides that will not bear the light of the Golden Rule nor the Sermon on the Mount. They are no more diabolical than those which history records in every such race struggle, which has always taken place in the natural geo- graphical distribution of life on the earth. "Man's inhumanity to man" always has made and per- haps always will make "countless thousands "THE OLD SANTA FE TRAIL" The old Santa Fe Trail from St. Louis, Mis- souri, to Santa Fe, New Mexico, was initiated on the 15th of May, 1824. On that date eighty men started with a wagon train loaded with merchan- dise for Santa Fe. They returned in September with their capital greatly increased in gold and silver and $10,000 worth of furs. From the pres- ent site of Kansas City they followed practically the present route of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway. That trail left the Arkansas river at the present site of Las Animas and bore toward the southwest. There was also a branch of it, more often used, crossing the Arkansas near Fort Lamed, Kansas, and coming into the valley of the Cimmaron and crossing a corner of Baca County, Colorado. From Las Animas, or rather Bent's Fort, another brancTi came to Pueblo, Colo- rado, and then turned south. In fact, the trail to Pueblo, up the Arkansas river, was established as early as 1806 by Zebulon M. Pike and his com- panions, who finally arrived at Santa Fe by way of the Wet Mountain Valley and the San Luis Valley. However, there is no record of any other effort to reach Santa Fe by way of Pike's route beyond Pueblo. But it is evident that the trail 134 RANCH LIFE from Missouri by way of Pike's route up the Arkansas river to Pueblo was used long before the route via the Cimmaron to Santa Fe became established. It has been thought best to mark the old trail to Santa Fe. This crossed the Colorado state line from Kansas near where Holly now stands, ran on the north side of the Arkansas river, and near to it, to the present site of La Junta, then turning southwest, ran up Timpas creek to Trinidad, leaving the State of Colorado at the location of Lynn. The Daughters of the American Revolution chose this route and have placed markers along it. The old trail was in use for fifty years. For that time it served every function now performed by the modern railway, and in addition throbbed with the hopes and fears of the pioneer trailers along the monotonous course. No one without having faced the savage foe, lying in ambush, ready to murder the in- vader of the west, can appreciate the debt we now owe to the men and women who came by the old Santa Fe Trail. The trail itself is a mere physi- cal emblem of their valor and the contribution they made to the onward march of civilization. Their footsteps on this trail were not merely those by which their savage foes could pursue and mur- der them, but were "footprints on the sands of time" from which further generations can draw inspiration for still other, but no higher, per- formance of great world deeds. EXTRACT FROM A PAPER READ BEFORE THE STATE REALTY ASSOCIATION OF COLORADO, AT DENVER, JUNE 7, 1904 You are familiar with the present condition of real estate. But many of you are not familiar with the great changes since 1870. There are others who could recite personal observations back as far as 1858-9 and '60. But the growth of Colorado from 1859 to 1870 was small compared with any like period since. The building of Colo- rado has been done since 1870. It was in that year that the first railway ran into Denver the Kansas Pacific, followed shortly by the Denver Pacific from Cheyenne; being nearly simultane- ous. The United States census was then being taken. In Denver it was four thousand seven hun- dred and fifty-nine, in Pueblo six hundred and sixty-six. Colorado had less than forty thousand. There was no house at Colorado Springs. Colo- rado City was then the metropolis of El Paso County. Pike's Peak rose as grand then as now above the clouds, while the sparkling soda and iron springs at its foot were in a state of nature. 136 RANCH LIFE Manitou and the Garden of the Gods were un- born. The present fanciful shapes given to the numerous projecting rocks of that region and so glibly described by vehicle drivers to susceptible tourists, did not exist at that day. They are cre- ations largely of the imagination, and serve the commercial purposes of those now using them with so much pecuniary profit. Colorado Springs has grown from the log cabin eating house, built in 1871 or 1872 just across the tracks from the present D. & R. G. depot, to its present cosmopoli- tan proportions. As late as 1868 the Cheyennes made a raid along the site of where Colorado Springs now stands and shot and scalped a sheep herder named Baldwin, who was grazing his sheep on that ground and watering them in the Monu- ment in front of the present Antlers Hotel. Pueblo is drawing from numerous localities in Colorado the life blood of its prosperity; not only this but every part of the State of Colorado contributes more or less material to its manufac- tures. Many localities outside of the state also contribute to its business activity. In other words, the prosperity of Pueblo, as also that of Denver and Colorado Springs, is co-ordinated with all other contiguous prosperity. So interwoven are the combined commercial, mineral and agricul- tural enterprises of the state and the nation that depression in one locality is immediately felt in all. So that Colorado as a whole, and its cities REALTY ASSOCIATION 137 and towns especially, as parts, can be prosperous only as the nation, as a whole, is prosperous. This teaches us that the basis of our efforts must neces- sarily be along the correct business lines that work out the industrial welfare at large. Any other methods are short-sighted and ephemeral and react in a disastrous way. To teach these lessons, to get that co-ordinated action which will strengthen and foster the growth of all the parts, is the mission of a State Realty Association. Isolation in business is sui- cidal. Combination, co-ordination and co-opera- tion are essential to development. In looking back over the past we can see what marvels have been wrought from the most unpromising outlook. At first, in Colorado there was nothing perceptible but rock-ribbed, barren mountains and treeless prairies, where it looked as if a jack-rabbit could not sustain life. But the gold digger soon found riches in the unpromising rocks. The cattle raiser discovered nutrition in the scant grasses. From these primitive occupations what great things have evolved ! The evolution has been a survival of the fittest. The fittest were the man and the method which best contributed to the development of the soil and the mines. In the business of real estate what curious and unlocked for ups and downs have taken place ! The weak have succumbed and the strong sur- vived. Not the weak in the physical sense, but 138 RANCH LIFE those unfitted by the structure of their brains to cope with the rhythmical and merciless causes of commercialism in its struggle for individual as- cendency; the overzealous, the too strenuous op- timist, as well as the rattle-brained debtor who always held only equities, who considered it bad business to pay debts even when he had the money. When the tide of prosperity ebbed the latter was stranded high on the sands ; usually he did not recover from his failures. The business men who survive repeated panics and never repudiate their debts are worthy of study. Generally they are the ones who make the least noise and attract the least attention. They do not appear in daily life to have much business ; they walk the streets leisurely without bluster or hurry. The man who is always in a hurry is he who does a petty business or who has too many irons in the fire. The great lesson, however, to be drawn from these years of active struggle in a region whose apparent features were so unpromising is the one of proper methods the ethics of the soil. Real estate dealers are engaged in the basic cause of Anglo-Saxon superiority which is ownership of the land. He who is without a legal footing upon the land is poor indeed. No business of any de- scription can be prosecuted without a hold upon real estate; even a steamship line whose hulls are in the water is valueless without a terminal on the REALTY ASSOCIATION 139 shore. The sustentation of every human body is drawn from the ground. Land is therefore the foundation of life itself. When the Normans overran and conquered England the Anglo-Sax- ons said to them, "You do the governing and we will stick to our farms paying the tribute you levy." This was agreed to; today the Anglo- Saxons still hold the soil and the wealth of Eng- land; while the only marks left of the Norman power are the tinselry and ceremony fast fading away from a civilization upon which the Anglo- Saxon has forever fastened his name and prac- tical sense. The same principle holds in this great democratic nation. The real power will stay with the owners of that realty without which com- merce, manufacturing and agriculture are impos- sible. PATRIOTIC ADDRESSES THE PERSONAL CHARACTER AND PUBLIC SERVICES OF GEORGE WASHINGTON These preliminary remarks were added to this address when it was re-delivered to the student body of Centennial High School. The lesson intended to be conveyed in the ad- dress about to be read is that true greatness is within the reach of every boy or girl who possess- es the right kind of an organism. There is no reason why some boy in this audience should not achieve what Washington did, provided the con- ditions should again arise demanding the same efforts. True greatness is not brought about by a magic process impossible to the ordinary mortal. It is the result of doing common things extraordi- narily well. It is confined to no special class, but more often emanates from humble, rather than luxurious surroundings. Moreover, the great lose their title when they cease to be in touch with the common, every-day demands of life. Neither is it official position that makes one great. Those who have made themselves great sometimes are placed in official position. Kings and emperors, although born into high positions, are generally stupid, while the thinkers of the GEORGE WASHINGTON 143 world the real epoch makers, like Copernicus, Newton, Darwin, Washington and Lincoln spring from the common people. I will also say to the girls now present, that the mothers of these men were not society belles, but simple, plain, earnest women, with more than ordinary common sense. This Address was first delivered to a Masonic audience at Pueblo, Colorado, on an anniversary of Washington's birthday. I. The trend of latter day biography is to- ward personality. The public want to know, in addition to a man's public services, what manner of human organism produces great results in this world. The interests of science and philosophy also demand that the personality of eminent men be given in their biographies, along-side of their services. Biology, especially that branch of it treating of genesis and heredity, together with its connected science, psychology, has been built up as an inductive science by bringing together as cause and effect organic peculiarities and the re- sulting mentality. This connection in the written lives of great men makes possible such truthful generalizations as that "Great mothers have great sons;" "Organisms inherit the fixed functional characteristics of their ancestry;" and that "A man is the organic registration of the predomi- nant traits in the lives of his ancestry, back to the beginning of life on the globe." Great advances 144 RANCH LIFE in anthropological science must be simultaneous with equally important advance in its copious source of inductive facts, the personality of con- temporaneous biography. II. In the case of General Washington, all his biographers, from Weems, who was amongst the first and whose school history was universal in my boyhood days, down to the elaborate "Life" by Washington Irving, said very little of his per- sonal appearance and individuality. In fact, noth- ing that would be of importance in formulating any scientific inferences. Weems' ruling idea seems to have been to make of him a model saint for children to pattern after. He, therefore, gave prominence to such fictions as his fervent devotion to religious rites and the tradition of the hatchet and cherry tree. Until within the last few years, I think Washington was regarded more as an ideal than a real character. Even the numerous artists who painted his portraits, instead of pre- senting him in his natural hair and every-day clothes and postures, represented him in pow- dered wig, laces and impossible positions. Stew- art's bust portrait, from which nearly all the modern prints of him are copied, is undoubtedly largely fanciful, with a face more of an anthropo- morphic demigod than that of a plain Virginia farmer. Too many writers and artists seem to think it necessary to clothe greatness in other garb than the homely contour and habiliments of GEORGE WASHINGTON 145 every-day manhood. Washington was a plain man, uneducated in books, but possessed of un- usual practical common sense. In the days of our country's fathers, the art of taking sun portraits had not been discovered. Daguerre had not in- vented his process call the daguerrotype, followed long after by the present invaluable methods of photography. The latter presents the human face and form as it is in nature, except the colorings. One good photograph of Washington, as he spent his days in his every-day attire at Mt. Vernon, or in his camp at Valley Forge, for the purpose of studying his person, would be worth more than all the portraits ever painted of him. Fortunately there was a life-mask taken from his face. I ex- amined this mask, or a copy of it, in one of the eastern art galleries. It was exceedingly interest- ing. It showed a peculiar rigidity of his face, which was undoubtedly the facial correlative of that quality which gave so much dignity to his presence. The chin was prominent, the whole lower jaw large and finely moulded, the character- istic of firmness and persistence. His nose was slightly Roman, indicative of executive force ; the eyes large and wide apart, showing breadth of mental vision; the cheek-bones large and promi- nent, characteristics of physical endurance; the forehead prominent in the lower portion and slop- ing back, showing him more of a utilitarian than an intellectual idealist. We are told that his hair 146 RANCHLIFE was a deep brown, his complexion fair and color- less, his face marked by smallpox. His eyes were blue and rather dull. He measured 6 feet 31/2 inches in height, was large-boned and exceedingly well muscled, carrying himself, especially on horseback, most gracefully. His hands and feet were very large, though not out of proportion. Lafayette wrote that he had seen him sitting at table two hours after dinner, eating nuts. These details are very instructive, because they plainly indicate to the student of ethnology the true character of the man. They are infinitely more valuable than the idle repetitions of mere neigh- borhood traditions by purposeful biographers. They indicate a powerful human, not saintly, or- ganism, adapted to succeed in any active, manly undertaking. They are the visible signs of strong human traits, such as successful warriors habitu- ally display. It is not the makeup of a scholar or a poet, nor a dreamer, nor of a philosopher, such as was Benjamin Franklin, nor of John Ad- ams, the lawyer and orator, nor of Thomas Jef- ferson, the author of the Declaration of Independ- ence and a learned humanitarian. But it was the organism of a statesman and soldier, who in the troublous times of the Revolution, rose far su- perior to all these contemporaries in the practical power to grasp and put into operation the states- manship and militarism necessary to the success- ful separation of the colonies from the mother GEORGE WASHINGTON 147 country. He not only carried the Revolution to a successful issue, but was a master workman in setting up the political machinery that has needed but little repair for more than a century. Washington has now been dead more than a hundred years. As illustrative of the wonderful correlation of his physical and mental powers, I give the following analogues : For sixty-one years after his death the nation looked in vain for an- other built upon the same plan. But the seeking was more or less a blind hunt, principally because the people had access in his biographies, not to his personal traits and physical and mental organiza- tion, but only to his public acts, and to much fic- tion about his supposed ethical and theological opinions. But in 1860, in a haphazard way, they stumbled upon the same type of greatness, em- bodied in the same kind of organism, the same height, large boned, less graceful in body and so- cial functions, but containing a higher order of pure intellect ; one who carried the nation through a much larger and more difficult war than the Revolution ; not, like Washington, as Commander- in-chief in the field, but from his office in the Capitol city of the country. The co-incidence of the physical and mental traits of the two greatest men in our history shows that there is much more in personality than was dreamed of by biographers a hundred years ago. I say that Lincoln had a higher order 148 RANCH LIFE of mere intellect than Washington, but was per- haps not thereby a greater man, in the common acceptation of that word; for intellect is only a part of mentality. For instance, it seems to be pretty certain that Washington was only nominal- ly the author of his "Farewell Address." Ford, in his "True George Washington" says: "First Madison was asked to prepare a draft, and from this Washington drew up a paper which he sub- mitted to Hamilton and Jay, with the request that they put it in proper form." Hamilton made num- erous changes, and wrote it in the language in which we now have it. He made its tone less per- sonal and gave it style and expression. But Lin- coln needed no one to revise his Gettysburg ad- dress or his second inaugural papers that will stand beside the Farewell Address to the latest stroke of time. Another instance: I met in the War of the Rebellion, a great and most successful general (I think him the greatest military genius on the Union side of the Civil War), who re- minded me of the personality of Washington as I had read of him. He was, perhaps as tall, but heavier, and had face and hair very much of the same color. He was also a Virginian. His man- ner was grave, his movements were slow, but he was never unprepared and never taken by sur- prise. He never lost a battle when he had per- sonal control of the entire forces engaged. His GEORGE WASHINGTON 149 name was George H. Thomas, but I like to call him, "The Modern George Washington." I love to study the personal peculiarities of true men. If the theory of organic evolution is correct, then the true character is more or less disclosed in what may be called the general make- up, that is in scientific language the morphol- ogy and physiology of the organism. Not only does the shape of the head and the physiognomy determine character, but the shape of the body, the hands, the feet, the mouth, ears, nose, as well as the walk, the voice, the texture of the hair, every motion of every part of the body, the hand writing, the manner of shaking hands; in fact, the aggregate, both structural and functional, of the organism makes up character and determines what each particular person must necessarily do under any given circumstances, all through his life. Benedict Arnold was perhaps a more intel- lectual man than Washington, but not having Washington's general make-up in other respects, could not have accomplished what the latter did. On the other hand, it would have been impossible for Washington to become a traitor. To use a slang phrase, which at the same time has a broad scientific basis, it was because he "was not built that way." So that a proper study of a man's physique is necessary to a proper interpretation of the causes of his successes as well as his fail- ures. 150 RANCHLIFE III. Perhaps the predominant trait in Wash- ington was thoroughness. He was honest, through and through, and brought to the performance of every duty, small as well as great, a resolute pur- pose to do his "level best." His correspondence, which was very voluminous, and which only lately has been compiled and published, was of the most painstaking and laborious character. He did not dictate to a stenographer, but painfully wrote out every word with his own fingers and with expres- sions of the most elaborate politeness. His sur- veys for Lord Fairfax, made when a very young man, were most faithfully done. He avoided no exposure to the weather, and made long journeys into the western wilds, far from the comforts of home and the allurements of society, while other more showy young men were dawdling away their precious days in the pleasures of society, but who are now forgotten. His farming at Mount Vernon is noted at this day as being the best and most successful of his time. He laboriously and most intelligently mastered every detail of it, making maps of his fields and watching with his own eyes the progress of all its operations. He incurred his last sickness while riding in a storm to make his daily inspections. Washington had that love of the soil, that rural predilection so characteristic of, and which has given, the Anglo-Saxon his su- periority to other races in the practical affairs of the world. The independence from patronage GEORGE WASHINGTON 151 and paternalism that accompanies the pursuit of agriculture, was, next to his physico-mental or- ganism, perhaps the most potent factor in form- ing his character. John Adams, in his speech in the congress nominating him for Commander-in- chief of the Colonial Armies, made a strong point of this sturdy independence in Washington. No public honors could wean him from his love for the real source of his personal power and inde- pendence the fair acres of Mount Vernon. In the midst of his most arduous campaigns as a soldier, he never neglected his farm. He re- ceived long reports from his superintendent, and wrote him at times as many as sixteen pages of minute instructions, covering every detail of farm ing operations. He was eager at the termination of the war, to return to his favorite pursuit. But mark the result of such sturdy independence. The people, while filled with admiration for his mili- tary career, were also unconsciously drawn to him by this and other exhibitions of unselfishness, while he had it in his power to make himself a pensioner and a dependent on the public treasury. They, therefore, determined to keep him in their highest service. Honors came unsought to him, who had the manhood to turn his back upon them. It was his manly reliance upon personal effort in the great struggle of life, that made others ready to struggle for him. Every duty of his life, how- ever small, was faithfully done, and thus he pre- 152 RANCHLIPE pared himself for the next. Therefore, he was equal to every call as it came, however great. What would have been laborious and difficult to ordinary men, who never did small things well, came easy to him. This trait stood him better than college education, of which he had none. While he did not spell well, and spoke no language but his own, yet Patrick Henry said of him, in the congress of 1774, that "in solid in- formation and sound judgment, Colonel Washing- ton is unquestionably the greatest man on the floor." History recites his public life, but I like best to dwell upon his private character, because his splendid public career was made possible only because of these admirable traits faithfully cul- tivated in fhe obscurer and earlier half of his career. His home was at Mount Vernon for forty- six years two-thirds of his life. But he spent only half of these years in the beloved quiet of its exquisite surroundings; the other half being devoted to the public service, away from home. The twenty-three domestic years were the hap- piest of his matured manhood. The plain country mansion of colonial architecture, still preserved through the munificence of the patriotic women of our country, as it was when Washington trod its floors, was baronial only in its hospitality. Com- pared with the stately homes of Old England it is simplicity itself. But what it lacks in magnifi- cence or gilded splendor has been more than made GEORGE WASHINGTON 153 up by the affections of the American people which have settled upon it in one perpetual sunshine. I turn with reluctance from so fascinating a private character; but something more is ex- pected to be said of his public career. Not only the history of his country, but the world's his- tory treats copiously of that. So seldom have the centuries produced a really great man, that Car- lyle, in his "Heroes and Hero Worship," refers to only three great kings. Napoleon I and Fred- erick the Great are two of these. In physical stature they were dwarfs beside the stately Wash- ington, while compared with what the latter has done for mankind, their achievements dwindle into insignificance. Washington never fought a battle for conquest, yet he wrested a nascent im- perial domain from the greatest power of the world and handed it over to his fellow country- men for the benefit of themselves and their suc- cessors in perpetuity. Then, like another Cin- cinnatus, he modestly retired to his farm refusing any compensation except his necessary expenses for such great services. But what was worth more to him than gold the affections of the common people of the whole world have enshrined his name for all time. Frederick and Napoleon bestowed the ill-got- ten territory and plunder of their conquests upon themselves and their families. Napoleon I, who stands in history as a greater warrior was con- 154 RANCHLIFE quered by the nation that Washington successful- ly resisted. He died a prisoner of that power, while Washington passed away in the peaceful, independent shades of his own home, in the midst of an independent people made free by his own ef- forts, mourned and beloved by Christendom, in- cluding most of those against whom he had so lately fought. Every school boy knows the historical details of the public services of Washington, therefore it would be mere platitude to recite them here, but significant fact shows what a dominating power he was in the events then passing. From that day in 1775, when, under the tree that still stands in Cambridge, Massachusetts, he by vote of Congress assumed command ofthe colonial army, until the declaration of peace in 1783, he was always in command personally directing all the movements in the field. When battle reverses came, when his trusted officers deserted him, when Congress it- self was in doubt whether a change of command- ers might not be best, he did not lose heart but persevered to the end. Washington, Greene and Knox were the three officers who began at the beginning of the war and fought without waver- ing to the close. Always at the front, amidst the uncertaintain fortunes of battle, when weaker officers lost their heads, Washington kept his eyes of faith, like those of the eagle's to the sun, upon the rising "Halo of triumph that he believed would GEORGE WASHINGTON 155 ultimately fall, like a benediction upon the super- human struggle that he and his ragged and foot- sore yeomanry were then putting forth. His transcendent public services to his own country, looking back across the 19th Century to the results, cannot be extolled too highly. But in what splendor of diction can one couch the in- direct effects they have had upon the personal status of the masses throughout the world, in giv- ing an impetus to the cause of universal freedom ? The French Revolution did not occur until six years after the achievement of American inde- pendence. The two came too close together not to have an inspirational connection. Little did Louis XVI imagine that his assistance given so opportunely to Washington in our struggle, (not so much, however, to assist us as to punish George III), would react in so few years on his own per- son and throne in the way history records. Thus the influence of the public services we are now considering has permeated the atmosphere of every monarchy in the world for a century, mak- ing that atmosphere easier to breathe for the op- pressed, and slowly corroding the chains that hold monarchical peoples in what was before a hope- less bondage. In this light, how can we measure the height and depth and breadth of the public services of Washington? For it was he, next only to the all- pervading spirit of resistance in the people of the 156 RANCHLIFE Colonies, that made our independence possible. Had he faltered, or had there been a defect in his organization, failure would undoubtedly have come, instead of such glorious triumph. There would have been darkness instead of the bright light of freedom. It is difficult to say how long, in case of such failure, the independence of the Colonies may have been delayed. But coming when it did by the efforts of Washington, the resultant republic is now, in the beginning of the 20th Century, so great a power in the world, that monarchs every- where are fearing it secretly, and publicly scramb- ling among themselves for priority of alliance with it. The principle of freedom, held theretofore only in theory by such men as Jean Jacques Rousseau, at once thereafter became a practical force sweep- ing monarchy from the Western continent and in time will do the same in the Eastern. When that time comes, in the slow evolution of humanity, the paradox that nations of strong men as late as the dawn of the twentieth century, allowed themselves to be governed and oppressed by crowned tyrants, will be classed with witchcraft and human slav- ery, as one of the delusions that have, all through man's history, sat like "an old man of the sea" on the throne of human reason. In this sense, the public services of Washing- ton take rank as almost a new force in the evolu- GEORGE WASHINGTON 157 tion of human society. Men of Eastern nations, having before them the perpetual apparition of a great republic, growing up beneath the setting sun, as the apotheosis of the immortal principles of the Declaration of Independence, must in time, conclude that all men should be thus conditioned ; that if there is any meaning in human existence, then every combination of men should be domi- nated by the will of its members only; that no divine command has ever been given to any man or set of men to govern and oppress the re- mainder ; that all power, as a fundamental law of society, must ultimately be derived from the con- sent of those on whom the power so derived is to be exerted. For "Bequeathed from sire to son, Freedom's battle, once begun Is never lost, but ever won." THE BATTLE OF LEXINGTON Read before the Pueblo Chapter of The Daughters of The American Revolution. April 19, 1889, being a beautiful sunshiny day, two companions sojourning at Wellesley, Mass., proceeded by private conveyance across country to Lexington. The annual celebration of the battle was to occur, Edward Everett Hale being the or- ator. The distance, eleven miles (the same as from Boston), the roads being fine, atmosphere balmy and exhilirating, seemed much shorter. Oc- casionally changing direction by way of a cross road, they finally turned the horse's head toward the historic village on a fine macadamized turn- pike between two stone walls which stretched ahead as far as eye could reach. They had al- ready stopped and asked the way of almost every one met in the road. Not that the sign boards on the intersections did not point the correct way, but those tourists felt the exuberance of the sun- shine and the anticipation of enjoying a holiday on the very spot where liberty was born 114 years before. They wanted to impart some of this spirit to those on the road who showed by their indif- ference and the direction of their locomotion that they did not know how the day should be spent BATTLE OF LEXINGTON 159 or did not care. To these companions it seemed incredible that any one in Massachusetts could stay away from such a celebration on such an an- niversary. At one point just ahead of them driv- ing out of a gate of an estate (all the places are called estates) came a farmer in a one-horse wagon not a "one-horse shay." He turned in a direction showing his ignorance of the celebra- tion. Being hailed and asked if these companions were proceeding toward Lexington, he replied, "Which Lexington? The town or the village?" Not knowing that there were two Lexingtons, they were somewhat surprised at his answering their question by asking another; evidently he was a true Yankee ! At a venture one of the companions replied "village." He said, "Go straight ahead and don't turn 'nary way.' " This straight answer in crooked syntax by turning "nary way," enabled the travelers to arrive in due time at their des- tination. These two companions entered so heartily into the spirt of the day for many reasons; but the principal one was that both of them were of New England stock and descended from ancestors who as early as 1638 came over and settled in New England. The most conspicuous object in the village of Lexington is the common on which Captain John Parker formed his crude company about 2 o'clock the morning of the 19th of April, 1775. There 160 RANCH LIFE were about one hundred and thirty in line at that time, pioneer patriots of all ages armed with a variety of guns, with no uniforms; their hearts filled with patriotism and personal bravery, but without discipline. The Captain instructed them to load their pieces but "not to fire the first shot." He then sent forward some scouts who reported "no enemy yet in sight." The company was dis- missed after posting sentinels with instructions to assemble again at the sound of the drums or the firing of muskets. Some of them went to their homes and others to the tavern at one corner of the common. In the meantime let us inquire for what this band of brave freemen was waiting? The Boston massacre had occurred in 1770; the tea was emptied into the harbor in 1773. Gen- eral Gage, a British officer, had been made civil governor of Massachusetts in 1774 by King George III, and ordered to shut the port of Boston and punish the ring leaders of the resistance then rife to kingly authority. Massachusetts had been declared in rebellion. Seven regiments of British troops, under Lord Percy, were encamped on Bos- ton Common in April, 1775. These troops were in- structed to enforce the Colonial revenue laws of England, which included the well known stamp tax and duty on tea imported into the colonies. The duty on tea was still in force. This taxation, and in fact the power of the English parliament to tax the colonies without their consent, was re- BATTLE OF LEXINGTON 1G1 sisted by the Americans. The colonies were not represented in parliament and no steps had been taken to give them this right. In fact representa- tion so far away was considered impractical. This resistance was really the same as a declaration that taxes could not be laid except by the people upon themselves. This was good English law. This principle now lies at the very foundation of present representative form of government in the United States. The colonial stamp tax enacted in 1765 by England, was repealed in 1766, because it could not be enforced against an unwilling people, but a protest was signed by a large number of members of parliament against such repeal. This protest said, among other things, "this concession tends to throw the whole British empire into a state of confusion, as the plea of the North Amer- ican colonies, of not being represented in parlia- ment of Great Britain, may by the same reason- ing, be extended to all persons in this island who do not actually vote for members of parliament." This was true. The true cause of the struggle for liberty at Lexington, was the cause of disfran- chised people everywhere. That is one reason why the shot fired there was heard round the world. In other words, struggles will always exist where people do not govern themselves. The objection of the Americans was not to the tax as onerous, and in itself improper taxation, but that it should be laid only by the people, by their representa- 162 RANCH LIFE tives, and for the benefit of the people. But here was a proposition to tax the colonies, not for their benefit, but to pay the King's retainers for holding the colonies in subjection. This was the principle at stake. The same kind of taxes have been frequently laid since then in the United States; notably the stamp taxes during the Civil War and after the Spanish War. Tea has been made to pay duty by Congress. But these taxes were levied by the people's representatives and spent here for purposes approved by the people. Think if it be possible for intelligent men and women to think such a paradox of England's expecting to build up and hold the American col- onies and at the same time suppress manufactur- ing by them, prohibit importation from any coun- try but England and rule them by the prerogative of the King ! Also, do not delude yourselves with the idea that such methods passed away from the English mind with the success of our Revolution- ary War. They are now doing the same and worse in East India. The presence of British troops in Boston by order of King George III to enforce laws that had already been declared illegal by the people of Massachusetts, was in itself a state of war. But the colony was not prepared for war, and its citi- zens instinctively shrank from attacking the great English nation, thus invoking a contest that seemed hopeless to the colonists. The congress of BATTLE OF LEXINGTON 163 Massachusetts resolved against any act that could be construed into a commencement of hostilities. At this time, however, and before, nearly all the colonies had taken some steps looking towards de- fense. Patrick Henry delivered his famous speech in the Virginia house of Burgesses sometime be- fore ; but no formal action of separation had been taken as yet, only an occasional suggestion of it. That came later and only when the leaders dis- covered that although they were in an almost hopeless minority, yet the people possessed the most sturdy spirit of resistance and willingness to wage battle. And, as Richard Henry Lee said, "He is thrice armed whose cause is just." At Concord, a village a few miles west of Lex- ington, the patriots had accumulated some ammu- nition and a few pieces of artillery. General Gage learned of this. He received instructions from the king "to seize and secure all military stores of every kind collected by the rebels." Hence the ad- vance on the 19th day of April, 1775, by the Brit- ish troops on Concord through Lexington. At this time the eyes of Europe, as well as those of the other colonies of America, were turned toward Boston and its vicinity. For here James Otis and Samuel Adams, the ablest statesmen of America, resided and had raised the first alarm at the ag- gressions of the King. They led in urging the people to an early and constant resistance to tyranny. With what he thought was great 164 RANCH LIFE secrecy and military chicanery, Gage instructed Lord Percy to advance in the night to Concord, capture or destroy these munitions of war and disperse the local militia. But the patriot war- riors anticipating such an advance, found means, through Paul Revere and William Davis, to notify Samuel Adams and John Hancock, who had previ- ously gone to Lexington from Boston, of the time of the advance. They informed the settlers every where along the route, and Captain Parker's pres- ence with his company of minute men on the Lex- ington common in the early morning of April 19, to meet the advance British troops, was the first actual organized resistance to the British red coats in battle array in the Revolutionary War. The historian, George Bancroft, says, "The last stars were vanishing from night when the fore- most party led by Pitcairn, a major of marines, was discovered advancing quickly and in silence." The drums of the patriots sounded the alarm and about sixty of those who had previously been in line again rallied and formed across the common. Major Pitcairn, riding in front of his troops, came within a few rods of the patriot line, and loudly and excitedly calling them rebels, ordered them to lay down their arms and disperse. But, seeing they did not do so, drew his pistol and fired the first shot, giving the command at the same time to his own troops to fire. Captain Par- ker ordered his men to disperse. Some of them BATTLE OF LEXINGTON 165 in falling back fired their pieces at the British but did no damage. There being eight hundred troops under Pitcairn, the sixty minute men were too few to resist. It may have occurred to the British officer that this triumph ended the rebel- lion; but by this timely retreat many lives were saved. Later in the day Parker's men inflicted on Pitcairn's retreating forces very great disaster. The following minute men were killed by Pit- cairn's soldiers in the first encounter : James Par- ker, Isaac Muzzey, Robert Munroe, Asahel Porter, Jonathan Harrington, Jr., Caleb Harrington, Samuel Hadley and John Brown. Seven of the men of Lexington and one of Woburn were killed and nine wounded. The killed and wounded to- gether constituted about one-fourth of the minute men in line at the time of the firing. At one end of this line they had stood, the patriot dead were bur- ied and the line is distinctly marked by a monu- ment and markers. Edward Everett, in his oration at the dedication of this monument said, "Where should a soldier lie but where he fell?" Many of the original houses that surrounded the common at the time of the battle are still preserved with the bullet holes still in them. Metal plates at- tached to the front of certain houses recite what occurred. These companions lingered long in and about the historic spot and could hardly realize that a hundred and fourteen years had passed, during 166 RANCHLIFE which a great nation of free people, whose nascent independence from England had here its birth, had grown, not in and around this first battlefield, but so far away as to leave it practically in the same primitive condition in which it existed in 1775. For this village today is nothing but the embodiment of a sentiment resistance to tyran- ny is the only hope of a free people and here it was begun on the western continent. There was nothing spectacular about this first battle for American freedom; these men of Lexington were simple in life and manner; they were silent and earnest. They recognized their allegiance to Great Britain and this made them hesitate to fire upon the King's troops. It is a wonder, when Major Pit- cairn called them rebels and commanded them to disperse, that some of them did not do so. But the true spirit of resistance to injustice and wrong brought them together again late in the day. Had they been disciplined and properly commanded it is doubtful if the eight hundred British soldiers would have marched any further toward Concord where they did arrive about seven o'clock the same morning. On this one hundred and thirty-fourth year since the battle of Lexington it is not necessary to follow them in detail. But "pride goes before a fall and a haughty spirit before destruction." They were met at Concord by a larger number of provincial militia than they had met at Lexing- BATTLE OF LEXINGTON 167 ton and retreated the way they came. It is a mat- ter of history that the patriots, by abandoning all order of battle and each acting almost alone, killed and wounded from the woods on the sides of the road during this retreat, a large number of Lord Percy's forces. On the retreat of the British from Concord back to Boston closely pursued by the American militia, scarce ten of the Americans were seen together ; yet to the British the wooded hills and valleys seemed to swarm with them. They were fine marksmen and did splendid exe- cution on the conspicuous and exhausted red coats. At a certain point between Concord and Lexing- ton the Lexington minute men, still under the com- mand of Captain John Parker, renewed the fight. The old couplet says, "He who fights and runs away, Will live to fight another day." But here, in the beginning of the struggle for freedom, they lived to fight, most effectually the same day. Major Pitcairn was later killed in the battle of Bunker Hill. The day preceding the battle of Lexington very few thought there would be any shedding of blood. The night after that battle Boston was closely beleaguered by the Americans; the troops of England being inside of the city limits. The patriot troops that now besieged Boston had hur- ried in from the surrounding country all through 168 RANCHLIFE the night after the battle of Lexington. The loss of the Americans on that day was forty-nine killed, thirty-four wounded and five missing. That of the English was two hundred and seventy-three killed, wounded and missing. The talk of Edward Everett Hale at this an- niversary of the battle was exceedingly interest- ing. It was particularly directed to the school children who were present in great numbers. As a specimen of the manner in which the people of New England, and especially Boston, have pre- served in both tradition and print the minute his- tory of every event in their lives, it was fine. This, in contrast with Pennsylvania and Virginia, for instance, is what has given Boston its primacy in the early history of the country. It is the litera- ture of New England that gives distinction and historical perspective to its people far in excess of other parts of the union. Doctor Hale told of the important events in the battle of Lexington with which he seemed perfectly familiar, and then impressed on the minds of the children that to them was intrusted the task of further investigation and the handing down to future generations those traditions yet uncrystallized in print. A few of his peculiar statements show how colored may become some historical facts by repetition even in the imagi- nation of so learned a doctor. He said that when Lord Percy's main body of troops had crossed the BATTLE OF LEXINGTON 169 neck toward Lexington it was followed by the baggage train. A colored man, seeing that this train was unguarded, rallied some patriots and captured it. "Now," said he, "I want to impress on your minds that this was done by a colored man." It was not the habit of the negro to per- form military feats and especially so complex and daring one as this ; that race is noted for its want of martial spirit. When a history of the siege of Boston was examined with reference to this cap- ture, the hero of it turned out to be a half blood Indian. This made the story more probable, for both the white and the Indian races are beligerent in temperament. Doctor Hale further remarked that it was well known just where on Boston com- mon Lord Percy's troops were camped and that any one could at that time distinguish the place of the camp, by the difference in the color of the grass where the tents were pitched, from the contiguous grass. This statement seemed very far fetched after one hundred and fourteen years. At least these companions could discover no such distinction in the grass on Boston common. It takes the artistic New England eye to determine such shades of difference. Doctor Kale's remarks were followed by those of an aged gentleman named Brown, who said his father stood in the line under Captain Parker on Lexington common. His father had often talked to him about the battle, and claimed to have fired 170 RANCHLIPE the last shot at the time of the retreat of the min- ute men. This was very interesting. It brought the reality of the battle more nearly to mind than anything else heard or seen. That the son of one of the participants should live to tell such a fact a hundred and fourteen years after this battle, was a remarkable instance that time is not a line stretching indefinitely into the past, but merely our consciousness of changes in phenomena. In this instance, the term, "one hundred and four- teen years," means a battle for human rights, a soldier in that battle and his son relating to an audience on the site of the battle, the pride that swelled his heart because he was one link in that chain of moving phenomena. The current concep- tion of time is thus annihilated. So far, mere events of the beginning of new era in the world's political sociology have been recited. This battle was the beginning of an age of transition from monarchy and oppression to freedom for the common people. As usual in all such struggles a large number of Americans argued with much plausibility for compromise with King George III and many of them, called Tories, remained loyal to England. At the be- ginning of our Civil War, similar efforts to com- promise were made. A compromise with the Con- federates was at one time impending, by which slavery would have been continued. Fortunately, however, all efforts of that kind, both in the Rev- BATTLE OF LEXINGTON 171 olution and in the Civil War failed. Franklin had been sent to London as a diplomat to try to settle the points at issue between England and the Colo- nies. He was the agent of Pennsylvania, Massa- chusetts, New Jersey and Georgia. Fortunately he was very wise and would not compromise prin- ciple. Lord Chatham was our friend, but he was not in the cabinet. How could so enlightened a statesman become the minister to King George III? of whom Buckle says, "Without knowledge, without taste, without even a glimpse of one of the sciences, or a feeling for one of the fine arts ; education had done nothing to enlarge a mind which nature had more than unusually contract- ed.'* So devoid was he of moral sense that he per- sonally encouraged the slave trade with the col- onies. This was the grandfather of so humane and enlightened a queen as Victoria. Chatham, however, would not concede but what the king had the legal right to hold his troops in the colonies. But Franklin declared to him, "No accommoda- tion can properly be entered into by the Ameri- cans while the bayonet is at their breasts. To have an agreement binding, all force must be withdrawn." Chatham, after the act to regulate Massachusetts had passed the house of commons, addressed the house of Lords against the measure, and in our behalf, in the finest logic and rhetoric. After conducting Franklin to a conspicuous seat in view of the whole house, with prophetic zeal he 172 RANCHLIFE said, "The first drop of blood shed in civil and un- natural war will make a wound that years, per- haps ages, may not heal." We now know, one hundred and thirty-four years after the first blood at Lexington, that this prophecy is true. The house of Lords voted down Lord Chatham's plan by a large majority, and passed the act as it came from the other house. It was well for America that it did so. It was bet- ter, infinitely better, for the people to fight out their complete independence, than to compromise upon remaining a colony in subjection to a foreign power, especially one whose only object was to ex- ploit the colony for England's pecuniary benefit. The sacrifice in that struggle was large and de- plorable; but such questions, thus far in the world's evolution, cannot be settled right without war. An international peace conference is still a future hope. A compromise would simply have postponed the struggle to a later and perhaps more hopeless date. There has been an ocean of sentiment ex- pressed upon this battle. George Bancroft in his history of the United States, says, referring to the slain minute men on Lexington common: "These are the village heroes, who were more than of noble blood, proving by their spirit that they were of a race divine. "* * * The light that led them on was com- bined of rays from the whole history of the race. BATTLE OF LEXINGTON 173 * * * from the heroes and sages of republican Greece and Rome ; * * * from the customs of the Germans transmitted out of the forests to the councils of Saxon England; from the burning faith and courage of Martin Luther; * * from the avenging fierceness of the Puritans, who dashed the mitre on the ruins of the throne ; from the bold dissent and creative self-assertion of the earliest emigrants to Massachusetts; * * * from the cloud of witnesses of all ages, to the real- ity and rightfulness of human freedom." The immediate cause of the battle of Lexing- ton has already been referred to. What of its re- mote cause and its astounding effect? Its cause might really be traced back scientifically to the very beginning of things in the nebulae from which our solar system has evolved. For the primal principle of the matter of that nebula was condensation in such method as to finally produce the harmony of that system as we now see it, in- cluding life on the earth, and perhaps on the other planets. That condensation, in the life of man- kind, simply means the coming together of like units, and the repulsion of unlike ones. It finally means that the individuals who think alike come together in a solid body, with a single purpose, as the pilgrims of England did. Some of these fled to Holland, and then on the Mayflower to the shores of the new world. These pilgrims belonged to the Roundheads and Puritans of England, who, 174 RANCHLIPE under Cromwell, resisted King Charles the First. Those, who remained in England, experienced their first battles for liberty at Naseby and Pres- ton. The ancestors of these Puritans had fought under Cromwell for the principle of the right of taxation by the people only, a hundred years be- fore ; it was natural for their descendants at Lex- ington to do the same thing. It was just as natural for George III and his adherents to oppose this principle in America as it was for Charles I and his adherents to oppose it in 1640. Crom- well's war transferred the power of the king to the parliament. But the revolution in this coun- try begun at Lexington went a long step further in abolishing entirely the power and the person of the king and establishing the freedom of re- ligion from state interference. The rapidity with which the incoherency and irresolution of the commencement at Lexington strengthened into coherent purpose and broad- ened ideas of what was possible and best, is as- tonishing. The first ideas expressed after the battle were, that the king would modify his de- mands and withdraw the troops. But as the war continued and spread, the very next year, separa- tion was the object then aimed at, and the declar- ation of such sentiment embodied in the great heart cry of the common people everywhere "All men are created equal." The principle established by the whole his- BATTLE OF LEXINGTON 175 tory of the political struggle of the colonies from 1748 to the beginning of the War of the Revolution is "that the colonies would not consent to unite while that unity would place its concentrated ef- fort under the arbitrary control of either the king or parliament." They would unite for themselves, but not for a power independent of themselves. Even representation, if allowed, would have been so feeble in parliament, that the compact English members, with legislative aims so radically op- posed to those of America, would still have given the colonies, as it has been with Ireland, no real relief. Nothing but independence could serve any lasting good. As Mr. Lincoln said, in his famous Gettysburg address, the struggle begun at Lexing- ton "brought forth on this continent a new nation conceived in liberty and dedicated to the proposi- tion that all men are equal." It has not only done that, it has reacted on the old world in lightening the burdens of the poor and lowly under mon- archy. The revolution in France, by the common people with the cry for bread, occurred only six years after the close of ours. That commenced in hate and revenge, in blood shed by the hands of the insurgents; ours with the words of Captain John Parker, "Don't fire the first shot." But the French revolution, while failing at first, was a blind and unconscious beginning which finally culminated in a French republic which has come to stay. Buckle gives our "Declaration of Inde- 176 RANCH LIFE pendence" followed by our successful struggle in war as one of the proximate causes of the French revolution. Everybody in France read our Declaration of Independence, and the words pro- duced great impressions on the brains of the French people, who at that time had become great- ly enlightened in physical science. All the com- mon people of Europe are now in unrest and re- sistence. They are gradually learning the ab- surdity of being ruled by irresponsible kings. The sun of liberty that shed its morning rays upon Lexington is rising in Europe's horizon, and will carry to the aroused hearts and intellects of its people the words of our Declaration as an eternal principle of human society, "All men are created equal." Even Turkey and Persia are getting into the line of constitutional government. The Em- peror William Second has been disciplined by the Reichstag. The remote causes of all these move- ments could be traced parallel with the intellectual . advances of the common people, especially in the broadening power of the knowledge of physical laws, particularly of biology and psychology. For when men come to see that all men are alike in natural origin and are subject to the same natural infirmities then mere decorations of ribands, tinselry and coats of arms will not deter them from transforming such ideas into physical force. While such great effects followed from our Revolutionary War let us recognize its concrete BATTLE OF LEXINGTON 177 limitations. We are freed from the rule of an ar- bitrary king across the ocean, and an arrogant British parliament. We were left to form for our selves a government according to our own ideas. We did so, and have grown into a republic large in territory, numbers and wealth. But it has not brought the millenium. Men were not all made moral and altruistic by it. The banishment of Roger Williams, the awful practice of witchcraft prior to the war of the Revolution, make us agree with Phillip Brooks, who was "glad that the Puri- tans lived in the days of yore, and equally glad that they do not live now." But evils of the same kind exist now in our republic and some of them are caused by the necessity that existed at the formation of our national constitution to form some compromises. These compromises brought on the Civil war and also the inequality in the proper distribution of industrial wealth. But the people have advanced in their ideas of govern- ment steadily since 1789, and when the time shall arrive that our legislative enactments and the pro- ceedings of our courts shall no longer be copied from those of England, a more perfect equality of the people will gradually result. VIRGINIA AND MASSACHUSETTS Delivered before the Southern Colorado Pio- neer Association ; to the Pueblo Post G. A. R. and other audiences, including the Soldiers Home, at Monte Vista, Colorado. The present-day civilized human being has a periodical longing for change of place. He will undergo the most disagreeable discomforts in order to gratify a desire for what has now evolved into an annual outing. When this fever seizes one he will turn his back upon all home comforts, however luxurious, such as beautiful rooms, a library full of interesting books, a table loaded with the most appetizing viands, served just as the taste craves; upon leisure and privacy; the society of life long friends; in short, upon all the accumulations of a life time, which go to make his life ideal; and for what? Just for a change. In order to accomplish the desired change, he rides upon a railroad train for three or four days, in a hot, close, dusty car, filled with people, who are utter strangers, with whom he does not care to mingle ; sleeps in a narrow, stuffy couch, in which a hundred others may have slept, in the same VIRGINIA 179 blankets; eats his meals in a dining car, of food that he cannot digest, runs the risk of a train wreck; and finally lands at an unseasonable hour at his destination, tired, often half sick, to take any room he can get at a hotel; which room may be some better than the close quarters of a sleep- ing car; but whose meals are largely repetitions of those of a dining car. He does all this in order to get away from the dull routine of business, and the too oft repeated familiar objects at home. But the motion of the train, and the flow of new scenery, framed in the car window, as it flies across the continent, at the rate of forty or fifty miles an hour, is a welcome diversion from the monotony of the few blocks of dull street, that separate his residence from his business, at home. But when he arrives at his destination, he breathes a new atmosphere, filled perhaps with the salt of the ocean, which has saturated the air by evapora- tion from wide expanse of waters; which also fascinates his vision with an unbounded ex- panse of the sea. Although he has left at home purer air, bluer, and more infinite skies, brighter sunshine, the grandeur of the Rocky Mountains, and the finer comforts of a home, and troops of friends, he still enjoys what otherwise would be the inferior attractions of his sought-for environment, because it is a change. What is the fundamental and scientific reason of this anomaly? Why does man desire to leave the 180 RANCH LIFE location of the better immediate environment for the inferior attractions of some far away, and strange surroundings? It is because of the pe- culiar formation of his brain and nervous system. His life and health depend entirely upon the man- ner his nervous system responds to his environ- ment. Sensations are converted into thought and psychical effects by the matter of the nerves them- selves, in forming upon the cortex of the brain the images of the objects making the sensations. These nerves become tired, like the muscles of the body, by the activity and consequent exhaustion of molecular motion. The molecules become exhaust- ed by reason of their great energy; they decay, are carried away by the venous flow of blood, and are being constantly renewed by the inflow of arterial blood. Now, it is discovered, that if the same sensations are repeated too often, the nerve molecules cease to construct true images of ob- jectivity or, at least, respond very feebly. The re- sult is lassitude of the body, and a corresponding enfeeblement of the psychical apparatus, whose activities supply the effects which we are in the habit of calling the mind. When such conditions occur, they are the elements which constitute the desire for a change of sensations by transferring the body to new environment. The more radical the change the quicker and more vivid is the re- sponse of the molecular, or rather the metabolic recovery, of the nervous system. This is the VIRGINIA 181 psychology of an annual outing. And this is the true reason why with all its inconveniences a trip from the Rocky Mountains to the Atlantic coast is beneficial to the physical and mental being. In planning such a trip, in the month of April it is desirable to strike the coast at a point where the temperature is neither too hot nor too cold, and then to proceed north, as the season advances, in a way, to enjoy about the same mildness. In examining the map it seemed that Norfolk, Va., offered such conditions, and such proved to be the case. It is a beautiful city of 67,000 inhabitants, the second largest in the state, and the first in commerce, but not in manufacturing and trade. It is located, not directly upon the shore of the At- lantic Ocean, but upon an inlet, which opens out into a very much larger body of water, called Hampton Roads. This latter is the submerged mouth of the James river, and is twelve miles wide from Newport News to Norfolk. It is con- tinuous with Chesapeake bay on the east of it, which at that point is really the ocean. Histori- cally, Norfolk, and vicinity, are most ancient and interesting. Here, at Cape Henry, twenty miles east of Norfolk, the point of land on the south side of the junction of Chesapeake bay and Hamp- ton Roads, in April, 1607, the English colony, of which Captain John Smith was a member, first landed. After some lingering about the adjacent waters, one location of which was called by them 182 RANCHLIFE Point Comfort, they soon afterwards proceeded up the James River, and located on James Island, calling their village Jamestown. The names were given because the King of England at that time was James I, who claimed ownership of all the land. In fact, nearly all the names in that region of places, counties, towns and cities are those of the royal family then reigning, or dictated by it. The repetition in the English Colonies of America, of names already used for other places was de- cidedly unfortunate. The western states did not generally make that mistake. The original names of Ohio, Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota are so much better than New York and New Jer- sey. The first river flowing nearly parallel with the James, on the north, is the York. The two riv- ers form a peninsula, which at Williamsburg is only a few miles wide. On the York river is lo- cated the village of Yorktown where Cornwallis surrendered to General Washington in 1781. Still further north runs the Rappahannock river, where Fredericksburg is located. Up the James river about ninety miles from Norfolk stands Richmond, the capital of Virginia, with one hundred and twenty-five thousand inhabitants. Its most notable history covers its existence as the capital of the Southern Confederacy. On the north side of Hampton Roads lie Old Point Comfort and Fortress Monroe of great import- ance in the army and naval history of this coun- VIRGINIA 183 try. Close by Old Point is the Hampton Colored School doing such an important work in the in- dustrial education of negro youths. It was here that Booker Washington was graduated. Twenty miles south of Norfolk are the Dismal Swamp and Drummond Lake, objects of much poetry and local superstition. From these facts it will be seen how exceed- ingly interesting it is for a tourist to spend a month in the city of Norfolk taking excursions to the various accessible points of historical import- ance. The United States maintains a Navy Yard at Portsmouth, just across the harbor of Norfolk. Three battle ships anchored there attracted much attention. Nearly half of the population of Nor- folk is negro, making a study of that race easy and interesting. These negroes appeared to be the re- liable laborers in the commerce and industries of the region. Many of that race have become the owners of farms on the peninsula, and while those which fell under observation were not very pro- ductive, being the old worn out soil of slave times, yet the sense of possession, by right of purchase, gives their owners great satisfaction, and inde- pendence, and a living, without being subject to the beck and call of an employer. The negroes both in the city and country appeared to be con- tented and happy, living their lives quietly, with no unusual demonstration, except in the imagina- tion of some of the more fastidious whites. They 184 RANCHLIPE were apparently the most valuable labor asset of that region, as they undoubtedly are of the whole South. Considering their late origin in darkest Africa, and that less than fifty years ago they were, as a race here, in hopeless slavery, wherein, it was a crime to teach them to read, and without any lawful right to accumulate property; their present status, as to good common sense, educa- tion, and wealth, is a marvelous advancement. More development of brain will come to them, as they are thrown more and more upon their own efforts, in their hard struggle for existence. The added power which will come to them, as the Hampton and Tuskegee type of schools is multi- plied, will greatly enlarge their opportunities for a more scientific industrialism. In time, on ac- count of this development, no one will think of denying them, by law, the right of the voting fran- chise. Williamsburgh is a very old town. It was the first capital of Virginia. The original settlers at Jamestown, finding their first location an un- healthy one, finally removed to this point. It was here that Patrick Henry raised his eloquent voice for freedom from English tyranny. William Wirt was once a resident. Here is located William and Mary college, established in 1693, from which so many of the early patriots were graduated. Thomas Jefferson became a student here in 1760 and after graduating practiced law in Williams- VIRGINIA 186 burgh. It is said that at first the officers and teachers of the college were sent by royalty from England and they were expected to make Episco- palians of the Indians ; the whites generally being already of that faith. But Dr. Small, the presi- dent in 1760 was quasi-skeptic and certainly Thomas Jefferson was far from orthodox. At the close of a long life of most eminent usefulness Jefferson considered it his most important work that he was the author of the Virginia law giving the people religious freedom. That college still flourishes as a school, though compared with Har- vard, its contemporary, which was established in 1636, it is very small. Why is it not as great as Harvard and why is the population around the mgnificent harbors of Hampton Roads not greater than around the lesser waters of New York Har- bor? The climate is more equable, and every feature seems more propitious than those of New England or New York. The only answer possi- ble is, that the inherited reactionary spirit of slavery still hangs like a funeral pall upon that beautiful region. People both native and foreign who are seeking a change of residence will not go into the social atmosphere of reaction and exclu- sion. From Williamsburgh to Yorktown is a delight- ful drive of twelve miles along primitive dirt roads, bordered by a profusion of fragrant honey suckle and the finest natural growth of beautiful 186 RANCH LIFE woods. Within a short distance of Williamsburgh the Confederate works thrown up by Magruder in 1862 are plainly visible, as are similar works at Yorktown, where McClellan's army halted for several days, Magruder's inferior Confederate forces, at the beginning of the Peninsula cam- paign holding the line in front of the Union army. Washington's little army approached Yorktown in 1781 by way of Williamsburgh in his march against Cornwallis and a place on the road where Washington's army rested and lunched, was pointed out. A very beautiful monument has been erected at Yorktown, by the general govern- ment, in commemoration of Cornwallis' surrender. In a recent paper upon "Washington and Caval- ry/' by Charles Francis Adams, the following words are used: "The Yorktown campaign of 1781 was the one real success to be set down to Washington's military account. Boldly, as well as brilliantly conceived, and in detail planned, it was carried out with prescience, judgment, skill and energy, and crowned by complete success. A fine design strategically, too much praise cannot be awarded to its execution." At Yorktown the interesting old mansion of General Nelson, a signer of the Declaration of Independence and the governor of Virginia in 1781, was visited. He devoted his fortune to the continental struggle, and at the siege of Yorktown trained an American gun upon his own dwelling, VIRGINIA 187 when it was occcupied as headquarters by Corn- wallis. The distance from Williamsburgh to Freder- icksburg is not very great, and on arriving here the tourist will see still existing evidences of the struggles which occurred between the opposing forces during the Civil War. McDowell's Army of the Rappahannock came from Washington, D. C., in April, 1862, and occupied this place. It was the first corps of the Army of the Potomac. Mc- Clellan with the rest of the Army of the Potomac was then on the Peninsula, having landed near Yorktown, while McDowell's forces were sup- posed to be a distant reserve and support to him, and, at the same time, a defense to Washington, D. C. What a delightful contrast the appearance of Fredericksburg presents now, compared with that of 1862. The desolation that existed here in April, 1862, is practically indescribable, and the peaceful, prosperous, commercial, and industrial condition now existing is in very delightful con- trast to what it was then. This contrast should be a lesson among a thousand others that war should occur only as a last resort; and then only for the purpose of saving honor, or life. A short walk brought the tourist to the wall at the foot of Mary's Hill, where occurred such a slaughter of Burnside's forces on the 13th of December, 1862, in the great battle of Fredericksburg. The Con- federate trenches are still visible. As the tourist 188 RANCHLIFE walks along these, on a peaceful sunny afternoon and sees only the quiet and prosperous city lying stretched on the plain below, he asks himself "why is it so quiet and peaceful now, and in 1862 so menacing and horrible?" The answer is, be- cause "man's inhumanity to man/' in the form of human slavery, in this nation, has ceased. At both Norfolk and Williamsburgh meetings were witnessed of the surviving Confederate sold- iers in their war time uniforms, and carrying their old flags. These flags were very numerous, in their decoration of soldiers' graves, on their memorial day. Their orators habitually eulogize, on such occasions, not only their achievements in battle, which is proper, but the principle for which they fought. Yet, on other occasions, they declare their devotion to the Nation's flag, and the present Union. It is undoubtedly this duplicity, together with their hostile attitude towards the rights of the black race, which is so unattractive to the im- migrant, and which turns "westward the star of empire," which otherwise, would turn southward. Foreign immigrants cannot understand state rights. They know only the national government, and refuse to settle among a people, who are con- stantly agitating such abtruse political questions, and inserting in their laws the word "white." Legally, of course, Virginia is as free a state as Massachusetts or any of the northern states, but the blight of the former condition is still ap- VIRGINIA 189 parent in the character and spirit of the people. The old ideas of the 18th and first half of the 19th century pervade the native whites. They have no scientific or philosophic plan of dealing with civic life. They are reactionaries and standpatters. How long it will be before this spirit will die out in the southern states it is hard to tell. It cer- tainly will take many generations. Common schools and country newspapers will have to be greatly increased in number. The negroes them- selves will eventually accomplish this, as they will sometime own most of the property and the cap- ital, not acquired by northern immigrants. There is not the least doubt but that with proper industrial education the efficiency of the negro as a producer could be increased many fold. It is singular that the southern whites do not see the immense advantage to the south this process would bring to them. But, with the example of the Hampton School directly before them, they de- clare that the negro should not be educated. They strongly oppose woman and negro suffrage the women themselves do. They oppose any measure to elevate the negro, and frown upon any effort to lift woman out of that peculiar mode of thought generated by slavery and rebellion. The public school system in the south is very crude, compared with that of the north. Booker Washington says : "Taking the southern states as a whole, about $10.23 per capita is spent in educating the average 190 RANCH LIFE white boy or girl, and the sum of $2.82 per capita, in educating the average black child." In Colo- rado there is spent $49.26 per capita of average attendance and $7.02 per capita of total popula- tion and, of course, this is not far from the aver- age in the whole northern states; while the same items in Mississippi are $10.43 and $1.49. Their cities do not grow until northern business men go down, and show them how to beautify and enlarge. There would be little real manufacturing in the south, except for the advent of capitalists and me- chanics from outside localities, where slavery has never existed. They learned nothing from the war, except to patiently submit to being unwilling members of the Union. It is frequently said that some of the old Confederate soldiers are glad that they were defeated and that slavery was abol- ished. But, it appears as if nearly all of them regret their defeat and would today re-establish slavery, if it were legal to do so. They venerate the Confederate flag, publish Confederate news- papers, and rear monuments to such wretches as Wirz and others. They were not satisfied to place the statue of Lee in the capitol at Washington, in the dress of a citizen of the requblic, but in that of a Confederate soldier. They teach their chil- dren in the schools that the principles fought for in the Civil War by them were eternally right, not that slavery in itself was right, but that the war was waged by them to preserve state rights VIRGINIA 191 against federal encroachment. They justify slav- ery on the ground that the northern states also held slaves at one time, and only abolished that institution because it was unprofitable. In Vir- ginia they say now that Massachusetts sold their slaves to the south and then made war upon the south to free them. Very few slaves were ever held in Massachusetts. Slavery died out there long before the Revolutionary War, because the general sentiment of the people was strongly against it. To hold the Civil War contingent of that state as consciously fighting in Virginia, in the Civil War, to free the slaves, sold by their forefathers a hundred years before, requires a most wonderful stretch of imagination. But when Lee as a soldier of the Union Army, in 1860, wrote letters condemning secession in strong terms, and then in 1861 deserted the Union to aid secession, there is a short and conscious connec- tion between the profession and the performance. Bancroft, in his history of the United States, says, that the first expedition of an English colony to Virginia, that of Jamestown, consisted of one hundred and five persons. Of these considerably more than half were so-called gentlemen, entirely incapable of doing the hard labor of house build- ing, or cultivating the soil. He says "of the one hundred and five, on the list of emigrants, there were but twelve laborers and a very few mechan- ics." There were forty-eight gentlemen to four car- 192 RANCH LIFE penters, and no men with families. Contrast this with the Pilgrim Colony, which came on the ship Mayflower, without royal charter, followed by the ill will and frowns of King James I. It consisted of one hundred and two per- sons. Only forty-one of these were men, the rest women and children, the families of the forty- one men. They came thirteen years after the first colony of Jamestown. There was not in the English sense, a gentleman among them. They landed on a bleak and barren coast, five hundred miles north of the Jamestown colony. Each man built his own house, and here democratic liberty and independent Christian worship started into being." Here also Thanksgiving Day originated and has been perpetuated to the present. Is it not plausible that the difference in the in- stitutions and character of the men of New Eng- land and those of Virginia, which developed and widened, as the years passed and which finally culminated in the Civil War, should be simply a difference in the character and temperament of the two original colonies, and of the subsequent immigrants, attracted by these peculiar features to the two regions. After the beheading of Charles I, in 1649, and Cromwell's accession to the ruler- ship of England, cavaliers in large numbers emi- grated from England to Virginia. Being adher- ents of royalty and the state church they could not come to New England, where they would have VIRGINIA 193 been unwelcome and with whose puritan life they could not coalesce. But they settled among their co-believers in church and state in Virginia, many of them opening up large plantations. The de- mand for African slaves immediately increased and these were furnished by the Dutch slave trad- ers. Such historic examples make it clear that the subsequent character of the state was fixed by the beliefs and practices of the original settlers in both Massachusetts and Virginia. Virginia be- came a tobacco producing state dependent on slave labor, while New England developed ship build- ing and manufacturing, requiring skilled labor, which could be done by free white persons only. A most striking illustration of the present differ- ence between the two regions as shown in its men is given by The National Tribune, a paper pub- lished in Washington, D. C., as follows : "It is found in this country that Massachusetts leads in prominent men, and Connecticut is always second, with the southern states far behind in the production of noted men. For example, in Lip- pincott's Biographical Dictionary for 1895, there were three thousand two hundred and twenty- seven names of native-born Americans. Of these seven hundred and eleven were born in Massa- chusetts and two hundred and thirty-one in Vir- ginia. The men who received special adjectives of praise were three hundred and twenty, of whom ninety-five were born in Massachusetts and twen- 194 RANCHLIFE ty-three in Virginia. Those who received unusual space were two hundred and thirty-four, of whom sixty-seven were born in Massachusetts, and only twenty in Virginia. Americans about whom books have been written numbered one hun- dred and twenty-nine, of whom thirty-nine were born in Massachusetts and eighteen in Virginia. Of bankers, merchants, lawyers, politicians, of- ficials, engineers, manufacturers and soldiers there were one thousand two hundred and sixty-six men, of whom two hundred and thirty-five were born in Massachusetts and one hundred and forty- three in Virginia. 'Who's Who in America' has fourteen thousand two hundred and twenty-seven names, of which one thousand six hundred and fifty were born in Massachusetts and four hundred and ninety-three in Virginia. Of the thirteen Orig- inal States Massachusetts has always produced twice as many eminent men as Virginia. The ratio also rises higher when only those who have re- ceived adjectives of praise in their biographies are considered. Nine-tenths of the names in the Dic- tionary are mere dry statements of birth, career and death. Of those who received adjectives of praise, Massachusetts born has three and eight- tenths per cent., while Virginia has only six- tenths of one per cent." Without having gone into the character of the other colonies, which settled the original southern states, there is little doubt that a similar compari- VIRGINIA 195 son could be made between them, and the first set- tlers of the other northern states. It is the dif- ference between the cavalier and the earnest com- mon people. It is the difference in principle be- tween feudalism and democracy. It is the dif- ference between good and bad methods of view- ing, and conducting, the social and governmental affairs of life. In strong contrast with the spirit of the peo- ple of Virginia, it was delightful, after three weeks delay at Washington, D. C. and Atlantic City, N. J., to finally arrive in, and witness the spirit of New England, where the stars and stripes were always, and the only flag, in evidence; and where the word "white" is not inserted in law, or constitution. The laws of a people should be made for all, whatever color. The soil of New England has been in cultivation, about as long as that of Virginia. But how different its appear- ance! Where New England soil has ceased to be productive it has been made fairly productive by the application of fertilizers; or wealth, accumu- lated in other pursuits, has converted it into beau- tiful homes. Granite walls, some of them beauti- ful, inclosing the lands, houses and parks, adorn the land. Thrift and enterprise are everywhere to be seen in that favored clime. There is a life, and snappiness in the air of New England, which one does not find further south, and the people partake of these differences. The varied indus- 196 RANCH LIFE tries, from the making of a wood spool, to that of building a steel ship, came by inheritance to that people. Their forefathers trained their hands, and brains in a variety of handicraft. Some of the puritan blacksmiths made the most ex- quisite silverware. Paul Revere was a silversmith, Franklin, a printer, John Hancock, a merchant. The farmers were also fishermen, or hotel keep- ers; or turned their varied capacities to any in- dustry that would be profitable. The pilgrims and puritans thrived by the work of their own hands, not by those of slaves. They lifted the granite stones from most unpromising lands, with their own hands; frequently built their houses and fences of the stones, and made fortunes by work- ing at profitable industries, without any aristo- cratic dignity to maintain. Both New England and Virginia have done much to preserve the land- marks of early and Revolutionary times. The woman's society for the preservation of these landmarks in Virginia has done wonders at Jamestown, Williamsburgh, Yorktown and Fred- ericksburg. It is astonishing to see so much of the ruins at Jamestown restored by these ladies. These remains are three hundred years old. At Fredericksburg, they have preserved the house, once the home of Washington's mother, and built to her, in the cemetery, a fine granite monument, to replace an old one. The patriotism of Virginia, and that of New VIRGINIA 197 England, in the years preceding the Revolution, were contemporaneous, and equal in value. But to Massachusetts fell the first conflict of arms at Lexington. No people could have met the condi- tions of 1775 better. Possessing nervous temper- aments of the most inflammable kind, they waited with wonderful patience, until the king's troops fired the first shot in actual war at Lexington, at early dawn on April 19th, 1775. Fortunately for the result of that conflict, the British troops kept together in compact form and did not throw out skirmishers. The patriots, though armed, were entirely without discipline and knew nothing of regimentation. Adopting the only mode of war- fare of which they had any knowledge, that is, the Indian method, they beat back the British forces, with great slaughter, in much the same manner that Braddock's defeat was accomplished in Pennsylvania by the Indians in 1755. The history of the pioneer immigrants of New England has always been fascinating. Their very fanaticism was only an evolved function of their earnest and sturdy manhood. They were not aris- tocrats, nor descendants of these, but they were in- telligent middle class people. They were always willing to undergo any necessary suffering and deprivation, in order to preserve their independ- ence, and virile beliefs; and intermingled, with their supernatural ideas, appeared in bold relief always the homely and honest virtues of love of 198 RANCHLIFE freedom, unconquerable resistance to tyranny, un- tiring industry, and thriftiness. So intense were these admirable qualities that today, their de- scendants, not only in New England, but through- out the Nation, give a like tone to American so- ciety. The spirit, manifested at Lexington, and Bunker Hill, pervades the people wherever the de- scendants of the pilgrims and puritans have mi- grated. The ringing oratory of James Otis, and Samuel Adams, in delineating the tyranny of George III, and elucidating the rights of man, is known to every reader of American history throughout the land. It is a shining and perpetual part of the history of our country. This is a precious inheritance, worth more than the physi- cal wealth of the nation. In and around Boston the esteem in which these men, as well as the memory of Franklin and Paul Revere, is held, is shown in the numerous monuments, and tablets erected to them. We must not let the emotion of patriotism blind us to the fact however, that Otis, Hancock, Samuel Adams, Franklin, Revere and Washington, himself, were men of only human traits. They were not saints, nor angels. It is more than probable that those who were closest to them, while living, saw little difference between them and other men. Yet there was this difference, not apparent to their contemporaries, but very apparent to us, that they did a work so remarkable, as to be carried down in history, as VIRGINIA 199 of basic value to the country, and which will abide, in the uplift of mankind for all time ; (while others of more strict moral character than some of these patriots, are now forgotten). First of all, they were lovers of freedom and fighters against oppression. The route taken by Paul Re- vere, in his midnight ride to alarm the settlers at the approach of the British forces to Lexington and Concord, is preserved by frequent tablets, especially the spot where he was captured. In fact all the occurrences from the massacre on State Street, in March 1770, to the evacuation of Boston by the red coats, in March 1776, are pre- served most minutely. In this six years of anxiety, fear, frequent ap- peals to the better sense of the British parliament, of conflict in arms against the large forces of a great kingdom, by a handful of colonists, poor, un- trained in warfare, they actually lost but few men, although, at the evacuation, the English General Howe had a trained and veteran army of about 8,000 men. The Declaration of Independence had not yet been framed. But this defeat of royalty by the middle classes of the people, in forcing the British to evacuate Boston, left at least four of the New England states free from future inva- sion. This was accomplished by the yeoman of New England, commanded after the battle of Bunker Hill by Washington, who was a Virginian. Thus New England and Virginia joined hands in 200 RANCH LIFE a common purpose. After Washington took com- mand, during the siege of Boston, the loss to the patriots was less than twenty. "The liberation of New England cost altogether less than two hun- dred lives in battle." Their descendants, in the late Civil War, inherited the indomitable courage and patriotism of their fathers. The record of losses in New England regiments in the Civil War will stand beside that of their ancestors in the Revo- lution, as being more remarkable for its large number, but not more praiseworthy and patriotic than are the small number of losses in the earlier conflicts at Boston and vicinity. OUR FLAG Read before Pueblo Post Grand Army of the Republic. Ever since June 14th, 1777, the Stars and Stripes have been the legal emblem of the inde- pendence of this country. The law, making thir- teen stripes alternate white and red, and thirteen stars on a blue field the flag of the independent United States, was enacted on that date. Before the Declaration of Independence, the flag dis- played the