M' ^OKALIFOfy* ^QFC .vW ,\WlMVERS//v. ^JlttNVSOl^ ^AWE-UNIVERS/a ?? ■ \i ji \\ 1 11 1 , r3if T (fab c o N T E N T S OF THE SECOND VOLUME. Page FIE DO and its Environs, withaDe* J crip t ion of Aviles, Luanjo, and Gijon, with refpeB to Manufactures, Commerce, Nutaral Hi/lory, and the Manners of the Inhabitants in the Afiurias — — t journey from the Afturias to the E/curial 9 through Leon, with an Account of the Merino Sheep, aiid Salamanca, with a Defcription of that Univerfty, and of the Irijh College — — eg S. Ildefonfo and the Palace, with its Gardens 109 Segovia, and its Manufactures — 116 The Efcurial, and Convent of S. Lorenzo, with the Diverfions of the King — - 1 iq Return to Madrid, with an Account of the principal Characters about the Court, the Manners of the Age, the Palaces of the Great, and their EJlabliflments — 134 Digefl of the Taxes and Revenue of Spain 2 60 Debts of Spain, and Obfervations on Finance 1 88 The iv CONTENTS, Page The Bank of S. Carlos and a Statement of their gains — — — 196 Population of Spain, and the Caufes of its Depopulation ajjigned — — 207 The Minifters of State, with an Account of di/linguified Characters employed by them 240 Journey from Madrid to Seville through the Sierra Morena, with Ofervations on the common Obftacles to Population — 2-56 Seville, with an Account of the principal Paintings, the Manufactures of Snuff and Silk, the Mint, and the Inquifition, &c. 288 Cadiz, with a Defcription of the City — 344 The general Workhoufe at Cadiz — 350 General Obfervations on Population — 361 The Commerce of Spain with the Colonies, with an Account of the Philippine Com- pany, the Treatment of Slaves in the Spani/h Settlements, and the -Rebellion in Peru — — — 367 The Spanifi Navy in the years 1776 and 1788 — • — — 394 General ' Obfervations on War - — 401 Diver/ions, Manners, and Cufioms at Cadiz 405 Weights and Me afures at Cadiz -^ 413 JOURNEY JOURNEY THROUGH THE ASTURIAS, O VI EDO, the capital- of the Afturias, ftands hear the conflux of two little rivers, which pour their water into the Bay of Bifcay, at Villaviciofa. It was built by Froila, or Fruela, the fon of Alfonfo I. furnamed El Catolico, and made the feat of his dominion. This city contains one thou- fand five hundred and fixty families, and has five thoufand eight hundred and ninety- five communicants^ be fides children under ten years of age, who are computed to be about one thoufand fix hundred; fo that the whole population being feven thoufand four hundred and ninety-five, they are not five to a family. It has four parifh churches, eight chapels, fix convents, and a furficient number of priefts, with a bifhop, his auxiliary, and thirty-fix canons. The Vol. II. B biihopric [ 2 ] biihopric is worth fixty thoufand ducats, and the chapter is reckoned eighty thou- fand ; the former being equal to £. 6,591. 1 5/. nid. and the latter ^.8,789. is. 3^. per annum. The family where I took up my abode* was that of the auxiliary bifhop. He is more than fix feet two inches high, very flout, remarkably well made, handibme, youthful in his appearance, cheerful, active, and confiderably more than threefcore years of age. His manner is eafy, and his con- verfation lively. The title given to him is, Moll Illuftrious ; and upon the firfl ap- proach to him, you bend the knee, and kifs his ring, having previouily received his benediction, flgnifled by crofiing with his right hand. His palace is far from elegant, yet by no means uncomfortable. You enter by the coach-houfe, and from thence pafs through a door into the ftable, or up the flair-cafe to the dwelling, which is over thefe. When afcended, you go through a kind of gallery, or lobby, to the bifhop's apartments, con- fining of a drawing-room of about thirty by eighteen, a little ftudy, and a corre- foondinor I 3 3 fponding bed-room. The dining-room is about twenty-four by twenty-two, and not far from it is the little kitchen, with a few bed-rooms in the intermediate fpace. The whole has white walls, and ill-jointed floors. The chairs and the long table are of oak. If the palace itfelf is plain • the ftile of living is flill more remarkable for its fim- plicity : enough for comfort, although little for luxury, and lefs for oflentation. Our dinner commonly confided of a fopa, or bread ftewed in broth, followed by an olla, compofed of beef and mutton, a bit of ba- con, and fome fauiages, with garvanzos, or large Spanifh peas (cicer arietinum). At other tables they add veal and fowls. This was fucceeded by fome kind of roaft meat, or game -, and rim, in fome ihape or other, brought up the rear. Every morning and evening, inftead of tea, chocolate, with Na- ples bifcuits, was handed round. The good bifhop rilled up his mornings with the duties and functions of his office ; after dinner he took his fiefta ; then either rode or walked ; and in the evenings con- verfed with his friends, who aflembled r©und him. His family conhfted of his B 2 chaplain, [ 4 3 chaplain, his Secretary, and two pages j- befides thefe, his nephew, who is one of the canons, lived with hitn, and his great nephew, my travelling companion, was oc- cafionally there. The pages wait at his ta- ble, and attend him when he goes from home. The remainder of their time is oc- cupied with iiudies, and when qualified* they rife into the prieflhood-, and, admitted to the table, become companions, till a liv- ing offers to which the bifhop can prefent them. The padre cnra> that is, the rector of S. Andres de Aguera, had been one of thefe, and whiHl I was at Oviedo, an amia- ble young page was ordained prieft, faid his firh; mafs, and fat down with us at table. Having been recommended by count Campemanes to the intendant, I fometimes, with the canon, frequented his tertulla, or -evening afiembly, where I never failed to meet the count de Penal ba, a friend of Campomanes. Here I found two' apart- ments, one for cards, the other for conver- sation ; both neat; the former fpacious and well proportioned. The company afTem- bled in the card room was numerous -, their game was lottery, a game requiring neither judg- [ 5 ) judgment nor memory; but the room for eonverflition was deferted. The count in- deed was fo polife a c to quit the card- table ; but as I felt that I had no right to expect fuch a facrifice, I ftaid only a itiorfc time, and then either tormented the bimop, who was no Frenchman., with my miferable Spanifh, or, when I thought that I had fuf- ficiently trefparied on his goodnefs, I re- tired to my room. A few days after my arrival, I was pre- sent at a grand proceflion of the bifhop, with his canons, attended by the principal inhabitants, carrying torches, and preceded by the allies of Santa Eululia, to implore rain from heaven. But this patronefs of the diocefe, deaf to their petitions, would not intercede for one refrefhing mower, and in confequence the maize was fcorched jup, and produced but little grain. Being at the time in bloilom, it required daily mowers to prevent the blight. From the frequency of proceffions, the confumption of wax becomes considerable in every part of Spain, more especially where the country is not watered, cither by rivers or by the noria. But I am inclined B 3 to [ 6 ] to think, that the fame expence, if pro* perly applied, would in molt, places fecure a never failing fupply of water, and pay good intereft for the capital employed. Govern- ment is fenfible of this, :,nd with a view to watering, as well as to navigation, encou- rages the canals, not as with us, by leaving this moft imp .y : ,n)t work to private adven- turers, but as a national concern, at the na- tional expence. After the procellion, I went to vifit the Hojpicio, or general work-houfe, and found the numbers confined to be, men, fixty- flve y boys, fifty-five ; women, ninety; girls, feventy; not including infants out at nurfe. The houfe is large and commodious, con- fining of four fpacious quadrangles, three ftories high, and perfectly well fitted up, with comfortable work-rooms and dormi- tories. Some of thefe I found two hundred . and fifty feet in length, lofty and wide. To iupport this eftabliihment, the funds are thirty thoufand ducats annually, arifing from licences to fell brandy in the Afturias ; three thoufand from rents of land; and fome pther emoluments ; being together equal to four thoufand pounds fterling, befides the pro- [ 7 1 produce of their labour, which is ftated at three thoufand reales, or thirty pounds per annum, including what they make for their own confumption. Among the two hun- dred and eighty perfons fliut up in this hofpicio, I faw no cripples, fo that their labour may be fairly reckoned at two mil- lings and three halfoence each per annum. The expence of every pauper to the public is not fo eafily calculated, becaufe they re- ceive all deferted children. Here the mother has nothing to do but to put the child into the cradle, ring the bell, and then retire. Befidts this refuge for the poor, and for their children, the bimop caufes feventy reaks to be diftributed every morning at his gates, giving either a quarto or an ochavo to all who come, and weekly pen- fions both to widows and to orphans. In addition to all this, the canons fcatter their alms plentifully as they walk the ftreets ; and the fix convents adminifter bread and broth at noon, more efpecially the Bene- dictines, who, as the moil wealthy, are mod liberal in their donations. When fick, the poor have a commodious hofpital al- ways ready to receive them. B 4 Notwith- [ 8 . 1 "Notwithstanding all that has been done, and what more, in the way of charity, can be devifcd ? beggars, clothed in rags, and covered with vermin, 1 warm in every ilreet. •Is it not therefore evident, that they have done too much, increafing both the num- bers and the diftreffes of the poor by the very means, which have been employed to relieve their wants. What incitement can we here find to in^ duftry? for, who will dig a well when he but fuch is the moifture of the hills, that no care is fufncient to prefer ve their fruits, their grain, their in- ftruments of iron, from mould, from rot, from ruft. Both the acetous and the pu- trid fermentation here make a rapid pro- grefs. Beiides the relaxing humidity of the cli- mate, the common food of the inhabitants contributes much to the prevalence of moft difeafes, which infeft. this principality. They eat little flem; they drink little wine. Their ufual diet is Indian corn, with beans, peas, chefnuts, apples, pears, melons, and cu- cumbers; and even their bread, made of Indian corn, has neither barm nor leaven, but is unfermented, and in the ftate of dough. Their drink is water. This account, colleded from gentlemen of the profeffion, is confirmed in the valua- ble work of don Gafpar Callal, an old phy- fician, of more than common obfervation and experience, who has given to the pub- lic a natural hiftory of the Anurias. Although [ i5 1 Although fubjedt to fuch a variety of en- demical difeafes, few countries can produce more examples of longevity. Many live to the age of a hundred, fome to a hundred and ten, and others much longer. The fame ohfervation may be extended to Gal- licia, where, in the parifh of S. Juan de Poyo, A. D. 1724, the curate adminiftered the facrament to thirteen perfons, whofe ages together made one thoufand four hun- dred and ninety-nine, the youngeft. of thefe bein? one hundred and ten, and the oldefl: one hundred and twenty- feven. But in Villa de Fbfinanes, one Juan de Outeyro, a poor labourer, died in the year 1726, aged more than one hundred and forty -fix years. When we confider the temperature of the climate, arifing from its humidity, together with the cooling winds from the Atlantic, and from the fnowy mountains, we muft na- turally expect to find inflances of protracted age, with the prevalence of chronical com- plaints, and of fuch maladies as are feldorn mortal : whereas in warmer and in drier climates, nature comes fooner to maturity, is [ 16 ] Is fubjecT to more acute difeafes, and, like' combuflibles, when burning with a vivid flame, is rapidly confumed. The phyiician reported a cafe too lin- gular to be eafily forgotten : a young man, aged twenty-eight, complaining of a fever, was bled twice without relief; and having fome fymptoms which indicated a different treatment, they gave him a bitter purge, which brought from him, in one day, one hundred and feventy - three large worms, (the teretesj. Five days after this he paf- fed one hundred twenty-four, and the next day feventy-three, and died. From the general hofpital, I went with don Nicolas Trelles to vifit an hofpital for pilgrims, of which he is chaplain and con- feifor. It is a miferable building, with a wretched hall, and numerous cells, by way of bed-rooms. Here pilgrims from every quarter of the globe, who are going to proftrate themfelves before the altar of S. Jago, in Gallicia, are received and lodged for three nights. When they arrive in O- viedo, they pre fen t themfelves before one particular altar, arid 'receive every- man t£n quartos. f i-7 ) quartos. Should he chance to die here, he is buried with more pomp, than the firft nobleman of the province, and is attended by all the canons to the grave. The rage for' pilgrimage is much abated j but there are people living, who remember when it was the fafhion for all young men of ipirit, both in Italy and France, before they married, to go as pilgrims to S. Jago ; and even now it is not uncommon to fee itraggling fome few old men, and many companies of young ones, purfuing the fa'me route. We met twelve fine made fellows, w T ho came from Navarre, ringing the ro- fary, and hardening towards the next con- vent, where they expected to lodge, and re- ceive more money for the journey. S. Jago, if I am not mimaken, was the firft. who preached the gofpel to the Spa- niards -, but however this may be, their de- votion fprings from gratitude ; and the re- verence of all furrounding nations, who are acquainted with his military fame, is the juft reward of his undaunted pro wefs, when, mounted on a white horfe, he ap- peared in the air fighting againft the infi- dels, and putting them to flight before Vol, II, C Ramiro* f 18 1 Ramiro, at the battle of Simancas. (A. IX 927O The fight of pilgrims naturally, reminded me of relics, and excited a curiofity to vifit thofe of the cathedral ; and for that purpofe I made application to the bifliop, who the next morning fent his nephew, the canon* to fbew me every thing mod: curious among their treafures. Tradition fays, but I do not undertake to vindicate the truth of its report, nor indeed would our good bifliop ; tradition fays, and our good bifhop, with becoming modefty, coniiders it as poflible, that when Cofroes, king of Perfia, pillaged Jerufalem, God, by his omnipotence, trans- ported a chefl of incorruptible wood, made by the immediate followers of the apoftles, and filled with relics, from Jerufalem, by way of Africa, to Carthagena, Seville, and Toledo* and from thence, with the infant don Pelayo, to the facred mountain near to Cvicdo, and finally to the cathedral church of San Salvador. Upon its being opened, by the command of the fovereign Alcnzo the Great, in the preferice of affembled pre- lates, they found portions of all the fol- lowing articles : the Rod of Mofes ; the 2 Manna [ 19 ] Manna which fell from heaven; the Man- tle of Elias ; the Bones of the Holy Inno- cents j the Branch of Olive which Chrift bore in his hand when he entered Jerusa- lem -, great part of the true Crofs ; eight Thorns of his Crown ; the Sanctiflimo Su- dario, or napkin flamed with his blood; the Reed, which he bore by way of fcep- tre ; his Garment ; his Sepulchre ; the Milk of the BlefTed Virgin; the Hood, which fhe gave to S. Ildefonfo archbifhop of Toledo ; one of the three Crucifixes carved by Nicodemus; and a Crofs of the pureft. gold, made by angels in the cathe- dral. Whofoever, called of God, mall vifit thefe precious relics, (hall obtain remif- " fion of one-third of the punimment due " to his fins, with indulgence for a thou- fand and four years, and fix quarentines, &c. &c." Thus at leaft runs the pro- mife, in the name of the pope, and by au- thority of the bimop ; yet I doubt much, if thus worded, the promife be agreeable to the faith of catholics. All their bifhoos and men of learning, with whom I have C z had [ 20 ] had the honour to convcrfe, have folenanly affured me, that without repentance, and a firm belief in the atonement, no power upon earth can abfolve the guilty ; and that the church claims no prerogative refpecting in- dulgences, but that of remitting the punifh- ment, which would otherwife be endured in purgatory by thofe, who mall not have performed the penance appointed by the church for each particular offence. When they promife forty days indulgence, or as many forty days as mall make one thoufand and four years, they do not mean abfolutely days and years, as if endlefs duration could be divided into portions, to be meafured by the rotation of the earth, for they hold fucceffion to be inconfiftent with the idea of eternity; but they mean, if I understand them right, the remiffion of fuch a portion or quantity of punifhment as mall be equal to forty days, or one thoufand and four years penance, mould their lives be pro- traded to fuch a period as would allow them to perform the whole. When the points of difference between protectants and papifls fhall be fairly and diftin&ly ftated, the [ « ] the fubjedts of difpute will vanim, or at leaft the contending parties will have the better chance of coming to agreement. Some days after I had examined all thefe relics; the SanBiJimo Sudario, or facred nap- kin, on which the Redeemer, during his paffion, impreffed his image, was expofed in the cathedral to eight or ten thoufand peafants, collected from all the furrounding villages, moil of whom had bafkets full of cakes and bread, which they elevated as high as pofiible the inftant the curtain was withdrawn, in the full perfuafion that thefe cakes, thus expofed, would acquire virtue to cure or to alleviate all difeafes. Many lifted up their beads, and every one had fomething or other to receive the divine energy, which he conceived to be con- ltantly proceeding from the facred image of his Lord. After a few minutes, one of the canons drew the curtain, and the multi- tude retired. The monafteries in Oviedo arc not highly interefting; yet two of them excited my cu- r-iofity ; both of them belonging to the Be- nedictine order. The firft was of monks, ivhorfl I vifited for the fake of father Feyjoo, C 3 whofe [ 22 ] whofe fame has extended to the moft dis- tant nations. I went into his cell, and con- verfed with thofe, who had reverenced him living. I examined the features of his buff, but this having been taken when the clay was no longer animated, it was from his works alone that I could form any judg- ment of his mind. All who are converfant with thefe, will agree with me in thinking him, for general literature, the firfl writer of the Spanifh nation. The convent of the Benedictine nuns I virited chiefly on account of their great wealth. They are only fifty, and their re- venue is allowed to be twenty thoufand ducats, or £.2,197 5 s ' 3*^- a y ean They inviced us to tea. I went with the canon and my young friend to their parlour ; and th.y afTembled with the lady abbefs at the grate. Their converfation was lively, and their behaviour perfectly eafy. I ventured to folicit one of them to ling; fhe was young and handfome, genteel and delicate, and her countenance was highly interefl- ing ; but when fhe began to chaunt a por- tion of the litany, me made me Hart ; for having long fince forgotten all the fongs of infancy^ [ 2 3 ] infancy, and being accuflomed to fing only in the choir, her voice was become harm, and grating on the ear, When we took our leave, they invited us to repeat our vi- lit ; but my curiofity was fatisfted, and my time was fhort. The building itfelf is worthy of attention for its vail extent, and for its elegance. The perfon to whom I was chiefly re- commended was the count of Perialba, a man of good abilities, of gentle manners, and of uncommon information, for a no- bleman of Spain. I went with him to fee the hot fprings of Rroera de Abajo, at the diftance of fome miles from Oviedo. The fituation is moil enchanting, in a little valley every where (hut in by lofty mountains, excepting only a fmall outlet for the ftream. The rock is limeflone, and the waters refemble thofe of Bath, both in temperature and in tafte. The principal fpring rifes from the rock, and is near two inches in diameter. The baths are ill contrived, and feparated by a cold parage from the dreffing rooms. The virtues of thefe waters have not been ^fcertained, nor have they been analifed -, C 4 but [ 2+ J but the cafes, in which they have been chiefly recommended, are, rheumatifm, pal- fy, jaundice, and flerility ; and for thefe they are in the highefl eftimation. In the centre of the valley, on a little eminence, is a caftle with round towers, called San "Juan de Priorio-, and near to it a church, moil romantically placed, with a beautiful back ground of oaks and chef- nuts. As we returned, we vifited a new manu- facture of petroleum, eftablimed near the city, according to a plan fent from Paris by count d'Aranda, and which I underfland to be the fame with that invented by lord Dundonaid. This will certainly become an obj.e£fc of importance, becaufe coal every where abounds in the Aiturias, although it lias never yet been turned to profit, on ac- count of its abominable fmell, ariiing per- haps from the rock, between which it lies, and the fulphur, with which it is impreg- nated, It is well known, that alcali and fulphur form the liver of fulphur, than which nothing is more oftenfive to the noftrils. Now the whole province abounds With marie, chalk, gypfum, pifolite or cal-* careous; I 25 ] careous freeftone, limeftone, marble,- and the rock, which confines the coal, is wholly calcareous. But mould they ever penetrate this ftratum, and find the coal in fchift, I have no doubt that their coal would ceafe to be ofFenfive. At prefent they have not fufficient encouragement to work thefe mines, becaufe the country abounds with wood, and the prejudice againft coal is fo ftrong, that men, to whom the multitude look up, have not fcrupled to attribute all the confumptive difeafes of our ifland to the prevailing ufe of coal. The limeftone of this province every where abounds with foffil fTiells. To the weft of Oviedo the foil is gyp- feous, but they make no faltpetre, nor is there any fign of nitrous earth. The trees are, elm, am, poplars, and a fpecies of the oak, called robles, an appel- lation perhaps derived from robur. In the low. lands they get two crops in the year, taking after barley either maize or flax. Their wheat is very fine. The ploughs about Oviedo are, without exception, the worft I ever faw, and per- haps the worft which the imagination can conceive. [ ** ] conceive. The coulter is fixed in a beam by itfelf, with two oxen and one man to work it. This goes fir ft; then follows the plough in the fame tract, with no iron ex- cepting at the point of the mare. The handle is curved, to ferve the purpofe of meets, and has a mortice to receive the te- non of the beam, and itfelf is morticed into the tail of the mare. It has a retch to raife and to deprefs it. The whole is made in the moft clumfy manner, and at beft can only fcratch the ground, which, being moftly ftrong land, requires to be well ploughed. The harrows have no iron, and are only ufed for maize ; the wheat and barley be- ing always left unharrowed. The cart wheel has no fpokes, but con- ■fifts of a wooden ring or felloe, compofed of four quadrants, and is bifected by a plank of about eight or ten inches wide, to re- ceive the axis, which, being fattened to the wheel, turns round with it, making what is called an axis in peritrocheo. Some of thefe, for heavy work, are bound with iron, and have fpike nails with enormous heads, I had the curiofity to meafure the axis, and found [ 27 ] found it commonly more than eight inches diameter, but fometimes ten ; yet, I mufl confefs, that I was not furpriied at finding this quantity of friction overlooked in the Afturias, having obferved fo little attention paid to it even in England, where, till within thefe few years, the large wooden axis was univerfal 3 and where, even in the prefent day, few farmers have adopted iron. To fet any matter in a proper light, it is often necefiary to view it in the two oppo- fite extremes. Now it muft be evident, that were it poffible to have the axis, of the fame diameter with the circumference of the wheel j the friction would not be in the leaft abated, but would, as may be proved, and has been proved by the mofl accurate experiments, be equal to one- third of the whole weight moving on a fmooth furface. Were it nofllble to reduce the axis to a mathematical line, friction would altogether vanifli. Having found the two extremes, the imagination readily feizes a general idea of the proportions which lie between them. Let us however examine thefe proportions with a more minute [ 28 ] minute attention. It is evident, that In the former cafe, always fuppoiing the plain to be horizontal, a power more than equal to one ton would be necerTary to move three tons ; whereas in the latter cafe, a fly would give motion to ten thoufand tons. Stating the diameter of the wheels to be four feet, and that of the axis to be eight inches, which are the ufual dimenfions in the Aflurias, fome thing more than one ton would move eighteen tons -, but, fuppofing the wheels to be five feet high, and the diameter of the axis to be two inches and an half, then fomething more than one ton would fet in motion feventy-two tons, the friction being always directly as the diame- ter of the axis, and inverfely as the diame- ter of the wheel. Here I muft take occa- fion to obferve, that in point of friction, to diminiiTi the axis will be found more advifeable than to increafe the diameter of the wheel, becaufe the friction will be in proportion to the diameter ; where- as, the degree of ftrength being given, the weight of the wheel will be nearly as the fquare of the diameter. Whilft the motion is horizontal on a plain, which is perfectly [ 2 9 ] perfectly hard; wheels which are high, and confequently heavy, will have no other diladvantage than the fuperior cod, but on foft roads, and in moving either up hill or down, the weight of the wheels rauft not be overlooked, nor mufl the dia- meter be difregarded. The weight in both cafes tells againft the horfe -, but, as to the diameter, a diftinction muft be made. Go- ing up hill, in proportion as you elevate the axis above the horfes breaft, fo as for the line of draft to make an angle with the hill, in the fame proportion you lofe power. The truth of this proportion may be caught by moving in imagination the line of draft up and down in two oppofite extremes. Ele- vate or deprefs it, till it becomes perpendi- cular; the whole force of the horfe will tell for nothing, and he will act only like a log of wood equal to him in weight. Let the line of draft make an angle of 45 with the plain, on which the waggon is amend- ing, and one half of the force will be loft. In like manner by the compofition and refo- lution of forces, the exact proportion of lofs may be afcertained. In going down hill, the diminution of friction, which is directly as [ 3° 3 as the diameter of the wheels, makes it needful to create new fri&ion by chaining the wheels, or by a Hiding piece to prevent their rotation. In the Aflurias, not fatisiied with the quantity of friction arifmg from a wooden axis of eight inches diameter revolving without greafe, they fix two wooden pins, which confine the axis in its place, fo near together, that they bind hard againfl it; and this they do only for the fake of the noife arifing from the friction, and which, whilft it appears to lull the oxen, and to in- cline both them and the driver to fleep, as they move {lowly on, is confidered as ex- citing them to labour, and thereby preclud- ing the neceffity of either fpeaking to them or pricking them with goads. This mu- fic, refembling the found of a poft-boy's horn, is heard from morning to night in every part of the Afturias, and, when at a great diftance, is not unpleafant even to a ftranger, but to the native peafant it ap- pears to be the never-failing fource of calm enjoyment. In this country oxen fupply the place of horfes, [ 3i ] horfes, and confequently beef is cheap, be- ing fold for ten quarts the pound of twenty- four ounces, which is i£ penny for a pound of fixteen ounces ; mutton is fourteen quarts for the Afturian. pound, or 2| penny for fixteen ounces, including the alcavala, millones, and arbitrio. The biihop tells me, that within his memory provisions were exactly half the prefent prices. Bar- ley is twenty reales; maize or Indian corn, thirty; French beans, forty; wheat, from forty to fifty the fanega, which in the Anu- rias differs little, as I apprehend, from one Englifh bufhel and an half; wheat there- fore is from $s. A ( d. to 6s. ftd. a bufhel, or about 6s. on the average. Monday, Augufi 21, I went with my young friend to pay a vifit for a few days to his father at Aviles, on the fea coaft, about five leagues from Oviedo. The occafion of this vilit was to be pre- fent at the feria, or church feait, which in catholic countries all over the world, and even among proteftants in a degree, gives occafion to much traffic, and is confidered as a licentious feafon. The road was over the mountains. This they [ 32 ] they are making at a vail: expence, and in a moil fubflantial manner, without the leaft attention to economy, or to any thing but their own ideas of utility and beauty < For fome miles near to Oviedo, and like- wife near to Aviles, the road is made per- fectly ftraight, very wide, and rounded in the middle. The foundation is laid with large maffes of limeflone rock, covered with Hones broken to a frnaller fize; and, to fupport the arch, which they apprehend would fpread like the arches of an edifice, fupporing them to have no lateral fupport, they abfolutely build two walls the whole extent of way. This certainly contributes much to beauty, but not in the leafl to the principal purpofe for which it is deiigned. The fides of the road being planted with trees, makes it a delightful walk for the in- habitants. The ambition of Spaniards, in aiming at perfection, is no where more vifible than near Aviles. The ancient road turned about two hundred yards, in order to avoid a low and fwampy meadow - y but now, at a vaft expence, they are determined to have a ftxaight and fpacious avenue of near three miles, t 33 ] miles, like thofe of other cities. From Oviedo to Gijon, a little fea-port to the eafl of Aviles, they are making another road in the fame ftyle, and at fimilar ex- pence. Aviles contains eight hundred families, with two parifh churches, three convents, and two hofpitals, of which one is for old women, the other for pilgrims going to San Jago. They have no manufactures, ex- cept of copper and brafs pans for the fur- rcunding villages, and of fome thread for their own confumptiom Aviles is fituated on the bank of a little river, about one league from the fea, but within reach of the tide. It is every where furrounded by hills, which, for the moil part, are fertile to their fummits, and are either covered with flocks or fhaded by the roble and the chefnut: whilfl the low lands are loaded with luxuriant crops of wheat and maize. The houfe of my young friend is one of the moil commodious I have (ten. After the fafhion of the country, it is built round a court, but with only half the ufual corri- dor ; for commonly this runs all round the Vol. II. D court, t 34 ] court, like that ftill feen in fome of our great old inns. In this hdufe the gallery is wide, and open to the fouth, and to the morning fun. The ground floor is given up wholly to the fervants, except one corner occupied by a chapel. The apartments are, a dining-room, a drawing-room ; both fpa- cious and lofty ; one to the weft, looking to the ftreet, the other to the eaft, command- ing a lovely profpect, which is bounded by the fea; four principal bed-chambers, and others inferior. Of thefe, two only were fingle bedded; the reft contained, two, three, or upon occalion, four beds ; for in Spain, even in refpectable families, three or four gentlemen will occafionally occupy one room. Cuftom reconciles to this; and, by the practice of Scotland, France, and Spain, I fee clearly that other nations can be recon- ciled to that which is moft difgufting to an Englishman ; and certain it is, by what we fee daily in our cottages of the poor pea- fants, that our olfactory nerves may be re- duced to fuch a degree of torpid infenfibi- lity, as to be happy and contented in the midft of filth and naftinefs. la [ 35 ] In this refpect, no nation can furpafs the Spaniards ; who, without difguft, without regard to decency, when lodging thus to- gether in one room, conceal only by a nap- kin that, which the French fhut up in boxes, and hide in the little clofet, where they keep their clothes. Upon occafion of the church feaft or feria, which, by the by, marks the origin of our word Fair, the concourfe of Grangers to Aviles is confiderable, and every gentle- man opens his houfe for the reception of his friends. At this feafon the morning is fpent in lounging about to view the fhops, the cattle, and the people affembled in the fair ; and the evening is clofed by dancing. The balls are given by the principal per- fon in the city, and fuch is the fimplicity, which reigns in this diftant province, that the fervants and peafants are allowed to crowd about the entrance of the room to fee the dance. The mofl favourite dances are the Englifh, the minuet and the coun- try dance ; but fometimes they dance the cotillion, and, towards the clofe of the even- ing, the fandango. Sunday, Augufl 27, being the fourth day D 2 of [ 36 ] of the fair, and remarkably fine, the con- courfe of people, with the multitude of cattle, was furprifing, and the market was brifk. As proteftants, we muft be allowed to wonder at this practice. Beef here is fold for feven quarts and an half the pound of twenty-four ounces, and mutton eleven; bread, five quarts for the pound of twenty ounces; wheat, thirty- two reales the fanega, which weighs a quintal, and which, if fuppofed equal to the quintal of Catalonia, will be ninety-two pounds EngliiT); barley and maize, twenty-eight reales ; beans, thirty- fix. It is {hiking to obferve how corn finds its level all over Europe, whilft butchers meat, which is not of fuch eafy tranfport, varies exceedingly in price. Thus, at Aviles, beef is under three halfpence; mutton is 2 T X T pence for a pound of fixteen ounces, whilft bread is i| penny for the fame weight. No diftinction in price is made between the prime pieces and the coarfe, nor be- tween fat meat and lean, becaufe the prices are fixed by the magiftrate, without refped: to quality. The confequence of this ar- rangement t 37 3 rangement is, that the meat is never fo good as it might be, were the market free. The government of this city is in two corregidors, four regidors, and a fyndic, who is annually chofen by the people to infpect the meat, to vindicate their rights, and take care upon all occaiions, that juf- tice fhall be done to them. Whillt I continued at Aviles, I difcovered, for the rirft. time, that the vifit is always to the lady ; that the matter of the family is perfectly at liberty to come or go; that there is no necefiity to take notice of him; and that, if the daughter is handfomer than her mother, me may, without offence, occupy the whole attention. This idea I found afterwards confirmed in the great metro- polis, by feeing gentlemen introduced to ladies of the firfl fafhion, and vifiting them on the moll; familiar footing, without the lead acquaintance, or even perfonal know- ledge, of their hufbands. The fcience and practice of medicine are at the loweft ebb in Spain, but more efpe- cially in the Afturias. Fiat venefeBio is ftill the favourite prefcription, notwithstanding D 3 the t 38 3 - the ridicule of Le Sage, and the ferious rea- foning of Feyjoo. When the fond hufband meets the phyfician in the ftreet, and urges him to ftep in to fee his wife, Sangrado pulls out at once his lift of patients and his watch, tells him that he can not ftop one moment, orders him inftantly to fetch the furgeon, and to have her blooded, promifing faithfully to fee her in the fpace of half an hour. Palfies moft undoubtedly are frequent, but it is by no means clear, that thefe are always caufed by plethora, although in many cafes they certainly originate from fulnefs. Sangrado however has fuch a dread of palfy, that he bleeds his patient into a dropfy, or leaves him to languifh between life and death, a prey to the moft gloomy of all difeafes, to which humanity is fubjecl:. At the requeft of the bifhop, I vifited a friend of his, an old canon, who was threat- ened with a palfy by his phyficians. He had been twice blooded, and the queftion was, whether he mould lofe more blood. I went to him immediately, and found him, furrounded by his friends* who all flood looking on, expecting every moment to fee the fatal ftroke, whilft he, fitting in his great [ 39 ] great arm chair, apparently in perfect health, yet with a gloomy and dejected countenance, feemed to be waiting for the awful moment, without one ray of hope to cheer his mind. Thofe of his friends, who could be fpared from bufinefs, continued with him ; his neighbours dropped in to look upon him 5 but all continued filent, excepting fuch of them as thought it need- ful to a(k him from time to time how he felt. No one entered into converfation with him, nor would they fuffer him to look into a book. Notwithftanding this repeated venefection, his pulfe was remark- ably full and ftrong. He was of a certain age, lived well, and took no exercife. I could not helitate what advice to give. At my requeft the room was cleared; he adopted the vegetable diet, and took exercife. Thus by degrees his fears were diffipated, and he returned once more to join the little circle of his friends in their innocent amufements. At the defire of my friend at Aviles, I went to vifit a monk, who was related to the family, and found the good old man crying with agony of pain, arifing from the ftone. The phyfician ordered nothing but D 4 Madame t 4° ] Madame Stevens Solvent; but this was too flow in its operation, and could give no prefent eafe from pain. I ordered the Ene- ma Moliens, by way of warm fomentation, to be ufed immediately, and to be repeated, if occafion mould require -, but the firfb ap- plication gave relief, and all the monks crowded round me to confult, each for himfelf, what would be proper for his complaint. Among all thofe, who came to me, I did not find one, who was not af- flicted either with the ftone, the gravel, or with the hypochondriacal difeafe. For this I could affign no other caufe, but their in- active life, and the want of animating hope -, both common to the cloiftered tribe. From the monks I was fent for to a con- vent of nuns, where I was confirmed in my idea, that man is formed not only for focial life, for that is found in convents, but for domeilic cares. Without a purfuit the mind muft languifh, and the health will fufter. The two nuns, whofe friends had requeued my advice, were hectic, and I am fatisfied that others, who confulted me, were running the fame courfe. Nature certainly never intended them for nuns. Other confidera- I tions [ 4i ] tions apart ; the feverity of their difclpline, their rifing at midnight from a warm bed to go into a cold chapel, is ill fuited to the delicacy of the female fex, and mufl be in- evitable ruin to the tender conflitution. I was much pleafed with the good fenfe, and flattered by the confidence of the lady abbefs. When fhe was delcribing a dif- eafed breaft, and I had faid, " If this young " lady were my lifter, I mould defire to fee *' the breaft;" fhe anfwered, " Every lady 9 is fifter to the phyfician who attends !f her;" and immediately defired the nun to go with me to a parlour. On examina- tion I found it was a cancerous cafe, and recommended them to make application to a furgeon. After having parTed ten days very plea- fantly at Aviles, I went with the count Perialba to flay as many at Luanjo, or, as we mould pronounce it, Luanco. Luanjo has three hundred and feventy houfes, and one thoufand eight hundred fouls, of which one thoufand three hundred go to confeflion and communion, the other iive hundred are infants. It is a little fea port, and carries on a coafting trade. The [ 4* ] The ride from Aviles to Luanjo is chiefly on the fea coaft. When we arrived, the fun was fet, and the evening was mut in. The habitation of the count is maflive, chiefly calculated for ftrength, and to refift the waves, which always wafh its folid bafe, and occalionally breaking againfl the houfe, fend their foaming fpray over the lofty roof into the ftreet. Whilfl I was there I was fo fortunate as to be witnefs to this fight. To enter the dwelling, you pafs through the coach-houfe, and find the ground floor given up to flables. When we arrived, the great hall was al- ready occupied, as ufual, by the neigh- bours, who were amufing themfelves with cards; but, as we were under no obligation to join the party, which was diot of the genteeleft caft, we went up flairs, and took pofleflion of a room which occalionally ferves for eating. The family confifted of the count and countefs, with their children, his two Af- ters, and her mother. His brother, a gen- teel young officer, was there upon a vifit. The family being thus numerous, and the greatefl portion of the houfe being occu- pied [ 43 1 pied with offices, little remained for bed- rooms. Thefe were few in number, and upon a contracted fcale. The room, in which I flept, was about eleven feet by fourteen, yet contained two beds, one for me, the other for the brother of the count. The walls are white limed, the floors are fmoothed with the addice, but not one is plained, and I do not recollect one ceiling. The beds have no curtains. The great hall where we dined is a double cube of about fifty by five and twenty ; with thefe dimenfions, if well fitted up, it would be elegant. The ftile of living refembled the old Britiih holpitality ; and the long oak table, furrounded by ftrong oak benches, was. every day well covered. I was at firft. furprifed, and much difgufi> ed, with a ragged and half naked vifitor, who came up at dinner time, walked round the table, fpoke freely to all the family, but in a manner to me quite unintelligible, fat down occafionally at the bottom of the ta- ble, and fometimes feized a bone, then Jaughed and chattered like a baboon ; yet, c with I 44 ] with all this, appeared to give no offence. Upon enquiry, I found that this miferable object was the idiot of the village; and, as fuch, enjoyed the privilege of going where he pleafed, and of doing what he pleafed, without reflraint. Nothing can exceed their fimplicity of manners in this diftant province, Polifhed nations would be offended at their freedom, and the plainnefs with which they fpeak of things, which in the more advanced ftate of fociety mufl not be even hinted at ; yet fuch language neither gives difguft, nor tends to excite the paffions. But at the fame time familiarities, fuch as in other countries are efteemed innocent, and, being rightly underftood, neither imply nor lead to guilt, would here, and all over Spain, be highly offenfive; would, if praftifed in pub- lic, excite univerfal horror, if in private, level every fence which virtue is engaged to maintain. They ufe no paint, no powder, no curls, no cap ; nothing but a bit of riband bound round the head. In this fimplicity of drefs, youth and beauty may enjoy their triumph $ but [ 45 ] but the old women, for want of borrowed charms, have nothing which can pleafe the eye. Yet gentlemen are not altogether void of attention to them, nor are they infenfibie to thefe attentions. A tradefman of Lu- anjo had cut his little portion of tobacco, and had rolled it up carefully in a ftrip of paper, making a cigar about the fize of a goofe quill -> he had doubled back, and pinched carefully the ends ; then with ma- ture deliberation, taking up his ileel, his flint, and his little bit of amadou (boletus igniarius) he ftruck a light, kindled his cigar, began to fmoke, and finding it work well, he prefented it to the countefs. She bowed and took it, fmoked it half out, and reftored it to him again. After the countefs had done with the ci- gar, and had joined the converfation, in a few minutes me opened her mouth, and fent out a cloud of fmoke. She faw my furprife, and afked the caufe of it. I told her; and immediately the perfon who was fmoking drew in fome hearty whiffs, then opened his mouth to convince me thrat nothing continued there, and after many minutes he breathed out volumes of fmoke. [ 46 ] fmoke. This I find is their common mode of fmoking; and without making it pafs through their lungs they think it ufe- lefs. The government of Luanjo is in a cor- regidor, affifted by eight or ten regidors and two fyndics, who are to protect the people from opprerTion. Thefe magiftrates once a year make a contract with the butcher, who will fupply the market cheap- ■eft. In confequence of this agreement, beef fells for feven quarts; mutton, ten; bread, fix per pound of twenty-four ounces. According to this, fuppofing the pound to be fixteen ounces, beef will be i-JL penny; mutton, i-J-; bread, i^- per pound. Labour is from three to five reales a day, or, without fractions, from feven pence to a milling. The land in all this province is eftimated by the dla de buyes, or quantity which a yoke of oxen is fuppofed to plough in one day: but this differs in every diftritf:* About Oviedo they reckon the dia de buyes at fixty varas by thirty, or eighteen hun- dred fquare varas ; at Luanjo it is fixty- four by forty-eight, or three thoufand and fixty- [ 47 1 fixty-two ; and about Gijon they call it fe- venty by thirty-five, or two thoufand four hundred and fifty varas fquare ; but in ge- neral the dia de buyes may be taken for about half an acre. Near Luanjo the land produces, of wheat, ten for one upon the feed, and as it pays one fanega, or about ninety- two pound of wheat for every dia de buyes, we may reckon the rent at about fixteen millings the acre. After fpending a few days at Luanjo, we went to Carrio, another country-houfe be- longing to the count, ©r rather to the countefs, becaufe in Spain the property of the hufband, and of the wife are perfectly diftinct. As long as fhe lives no one can take it from her, and when me dies, it paffes to her children -, or, fuppofing it to be entailed, it devolves immediately to her eldeft fon, who, at the age of twenty-one, or fooner if he marries, takes poffeffion, even though his father mould be living. If fhe has titles of honour, fhe carries them with her to her hufband, and tranfmits them to her heir. Upon marriage, the hufband makes a declaration of the effects belonging [ 4S ) belonging fevcrally to himfelf and to hia wire; and her property is fo much veiled in her, that, in cafe of her hufband's bank^ ruptcy, his creditors have no power to touch it ; but if at his death it is found that he has profpered in the world, me may claim her proportion of all the favings. The latter provifion is unqueilionably wife, but it may be imagined that the former mud give much fcope to fraud, and cer- tainly it does; but then there are not want- ing confiderations to make men honeft. A tradefman of Oviedo, at marriage, gave in a falfe fpecincation, with a view to defraud his creditors, mould he unfortunately break. The wife died foon after, and her relations claimed all the effects of which he had de- livered in his declaration, as her property; and he, who had been well to pafs previous to marriage, was left deflitute, and could find no redrefs. Carrio is a commodious habitation, neat and comfortable, but without higher preten- fions, fituated in the midif. of afertile country, near to a little river, and not far diftant from the iea. In the domefiic chapel, the count mewed [ 49 3 fliewed me an altar, which is one folid block of marble, with the following infcription : Imp. Csefari Auguilo Divi F. Cos. 13. Imp. 20. Pont. M. 10. Patr. Patriae Trib. Pot. 32. eo93©Qd©ea©03Qd Sacrum. This block was found at Cape Tauris, near the entrance into Gijon (Jixa of the Romans) and is mentioned, together with two others, difcovered near to the fame fpot, by Mariana and Morales. From Carrio we rode into Gijon, a con- fiderable port, to which the Englim refort for filberts and chefniits. It contains about eight hundred families. This harbour, made and maintained at a vail expence, is not reckoned fafe -, but there is no other in the vicinity, which can Hand in competition with it. We were entertained with great hofpi- tality by Don Francifco Paular Jove Llanos, a captain in the marine, who is retired from fervice. An old officer in every country is a pleafant companion, and in no country more fo than in Spain. In this gentleman Vol. II. E I found [ 5° ] I found all that a foreigner can wifh for, good fenfe, politenefs, and great informa- tion. The next morning, we returned by Car- rio to Luanjo ; and, in the way, flopped in a beautiful meadow near Candace, to par- take of a little fete champetre. At Peraiiy in this vicinity, in the lime- itone rock, I met with a rich variety of extraneous foffils, of corals, corallines, and coralloides, with cockles, expofed by the fretting of the waves ; and, upon examina- tion, I traced this flratum running up into the country much above the level of the fea. During my refidence at Luanjo, the count fhewed me a royal ordinance, dated 2 2d Oclober 1785, flating, That the prin- cipal caufe of the decay in agriculture was the unlimited power of the landlord to eject his tenants at the expiration of their leafes; and appointing, that, from henceforth, in the Afluria£, the farmer, provided he cul- tivated well, and was not conliderably be- hind hand with his payments, mould nei- ther be ejected at the expiration of his term, nor have the rent raifed ; referving both to the [ 5* ] the landlord and the tenant, an appeal to fkilful perfons, who mould regulate the va- lue of the farm, a d give«a compenfation to the occupier, on his quitting it, for any improvements made either by himfelf or by his anceftors. This provision, moft un- doubtedly, is both wife and juft; becaufe it not only Simulates the induitry of the far- mer, but encourages his parfimony, by fhewing him where he can immediately make all his gains productive, and thereby promotes the higheft Improvement of the foil. But, as for wifdom or juftice in the former provilion, I muft freely confefs, I can difcover neither. Every thing is worth what it will fetch ; and if men, who wifh to find employment for their capitals, are willing to advance the rent, why mould not the landlord avail himfelf of this ? In moil countries, the ruling powers are too bufv, and will be meddling;, when thines would naturally, and without their interference, much better regulate themfelves. September 11, I returned to Aviles, and the count went to fpend a few days at an- other country-houie, whither he prefled L 2 me [ 5* ] me much to bear him company; but I had neither health nor fpirits for this excurfion. The refemblance between the Afturias and many parts of England is very ftriking. The fame is the afpect of the country, as to verdure, inclofures, live hedges, hedge- rows, and woods; the fame mixture of woodlands, arable and rich pafture -, the fame kind of trees, and crops, and fruit, and cattle. Both fuffer by humidity in winter, yet, from the fame fource, find an ample re- compenfe in fummer; and both enjoy a temperate climate, yet with this difference, that as to humidity and heat, the fcale pre- ponderates on the fide of the Afturias. In iheltered fpots, and not far diftant from the fea, they have olives, vines, and oranges. The cyder of this country is not fo good as ours ; but I am not able to determine, whether the fault is wholly in the making, or whether there is not iikewife fome na- tural imperfection in the fruit. Certain it is, that they pay little attention to this ar- ticle, neither fuffering the apples to hang the proper time upon the trees, nor felecT> ing [ 53 ] ing the beft kinds, nor leaving them to fweat, nor picking out bad fruit, nor rack- ing off the cyder when it is fine. The op- pofite o c all this, both as to the liquor and the fruit, is the practice of our beft cyder counties. Not contented with racking once, we draw it off three or four times, if need- ful, always obferving to do this when the cyder is become fine. For this purpofe, they, who are moft curious, will even fit up with it, when the time draws nigh, that they may feize the proper moment. If the Afturians paid attention to this, their cyder would become a confiderable article of ex- port, and, together with their nuts, and other fruits, would bring great wealth into the country. — Yet, with the beft information and the moll minute attention, it is by no means certain, that they would ever be able to produce a liquor equal in ftrength to that of our beft counties, becaufe of the prevailing humidity ; on account of which, every thing this principality produces is in- ferior in its quality to the productions of a warmer climate. The herbs here dry away to nothing ; and the wood burnt upon the hearth, makes little or no allies, yet pro- E 3 duces ■I 5+ ] duces fo much foot, that the chimneys are perpetually choked. Such is the humidity of this province, that the mifletoe grows not only on the oak, but on apples, pears, and thorns. All the way from Aviles to Oviedo, we found the harveft over, and the people, men, women, and children, in the field threfhing out the grain with flails; becaufe, in this moift and temperate province, they cannot ufe the trillo. Their fkil is very heavy, and extra va-^ gantly long, not l pr ~ than five feet in com- mon, and the han. iff is nearly of the fame length. In confequence of this, the motion of the flail is flow, and the exertions of the thremer turn to little account. To under- stand this fubject, we mull recoiled: the laws of motion. Now, when quick mo- tion is communicated to the grain, whilft the ftraw remains unmoved, or when the ftraw receives the ftroke, whilft the grain continues in a ftate of reft, a feparation is the confequence. When either moves flowly, the other follows, and no feparation is effected; but the greater the velocity of cither, the more certain and fpeedy is the feparation [ 55 1 reparation of the grain. Suppofing the ftraw and grain to be moved with different velocities, the fame effect will follow in pro- portion to that difference. We mult, always remember, that the weight of impinging bodies being given, the magnitude of the ftroke is directly as the velocity. This principle rightly underftcod and applied, would not only long fince have banifhed heavy flails for thrediing the lighter grains, but would, from the beginning, have led to the machine for coining now recently in- troduced at Birmingham. Threihing is by no people better under- flood than by the Wiltfhire peafants, who for wheat prefer a flail of three feet, weigh- ing about twenty-four ounces, with a hand- ftaff of the lame length. In the Afturias, they depend upon the wind for winnowing, and have no idea of a machine for performing that operation in a barn. Were they to fee the fan, formed after the model of a machine, firft invented by Reifelius of Wurtemberg, called rotatilis fuftor et preffor, but difcovered by Dr. Papin, and from Holland introduced into this ifland j it is to be hoped, that, without either pre- E 4 judice [ 56 ] judice or fcruples, they would immediately adopt it; and ,v at no fanatic pried, as in North Britain, would condemn the ufe of it uS in pious, under the idea of not de- pending upon providence for a favourable breeze. When I returned to Oviedo, a gentle- man gave me a collection of amber ind of jet, of which there is great abundance in thi? province; but the wo moft confder- able mines of it are in the territory of Be- loncia, one in a valley called Las Guerrias, the other en the fide of a high, mountain in the village of Arenas, in the parim of Val de Soto. The former is found in flate, and looks like wood ; but when broke, the nodules difcover a white cruft, inclofing yellow amber, bright and tranfparent. Jet, and a fpecies of kennel coal, abounding with marcafites, univerfaliy accompany the am- ber. The natural hiftory of this curious fubftance is fo little underflood, that every fact relating to it mould be treafured up. Till of late years, it was found only on the fea-more, call up by the waves; but even then the various infe&s inclofed in it, fuch as ants and flies, proved it to be a production of [ 57 ] of the land. But now we find it foflil, and hence trace a connection between bitumens and refins. We fee it likewife as one link in a vail chain, the origin of which all phi- lofophers are labouring to difcover. We find it in a country, where the inclofing ftrata, and all the furrounding rocks, char- ged with marine mells and plants, mew clearly, that both it and they are the depo- fit of the ocean. — This fubject will be fre- quently refumed, and, from its vaft import- ance, merits the moft minute attention. When every one began to talk of winter, I thought it expedient to prepare for my return towards the fouth, before the moun- tains mould be covered by the fnow, which ufually falls at the beginning of November, and fometimes even in the middle of Octo- ber. I was not indeed in a condition to undertake the journey; but the fear of be- ing fhut up in the Aflurias, till the return of fpring, prevailed over all other confider- ations, and made me refelve to venture. As the account of my indifpofition may ferve towards the natural hiftory of the country, I (hall briefly give it. The z I it of Auguft, riding from Oviedo to Aviles, on t 58 ] on a rainy day, I was wet through -, and at the end of our journey, as I had nothing at hand to change, I fuffered my clothes to dry upon my back. I had, however, no reafon to think that I had taken cold, till I perceived that I was gradually loiing the ufe of all my limbs, without eitner pain or fever. The phyflcian, at the end of one month, confined me to my bed, and forbade me the ufe of wine, allowing me only water and vegetables, till he had reduced me to the loweft ftate of debility. I fubmitted ; but, feeling evidently that I was going fait from bad to worfe, I took my leave of him, and, by the ufe of the bark, with a gene- rous diet, I regained fome degree of ftrength, and, getting myfelf placed upon a mule, I ventured to fet forwards on my way towards the fouth. The bilhop and his family expreffed their concern at my departure; yet, coniidering the humidity of their climate, and the near approach of winter, they were kind enough to content that I mould undertake the jour- nev, in hope that a warmer and a drier air might reflore my health. * JOURNEY 1 JOURNEY FROM THE ASTURIAS to the ESCURIAL. OCTOBER 2, I left Oviedo, and paf- fing through feveral little villages, came to Mieres in the middle of the day. At night I found a comfortable bed at Cam- poi?ianes } having travelled ten leagues and an half over delightful hills, all either covered thick with wood, or highly cultivated. In both thefe places I was much fur- prifed at the moderation of their charges. At Mieres, for a dim of eggs, for drefling my fowl, and for the ruido de la cafa, that is, for the noife of the houfe, or rather for attend- ance, the good woman required only a real, or fomething more than two pence far- thing. At Campomanes, for the fame and for my bed, the demand was two reales. As [ 6o ] As we approached the confines of the principality, the fcene greatly changed; for, inftead of foft and f welling hills, covered with grafs or clothed with woods ; fcarcely any thing was to be {qqii but ftupendous rocks of limeftone, fome in long ridges rifing perpendicular to the height of two or three hundred feet, others cragged and broken into a thoufand forms. In this route, the way winds chiefly by the fide of little ri- vers, brooks, or torrents, till it has pafTed the fummit of that vaft chain of mountains, which feparates the A (tunas from the Old Caiiille : yet in the midft of thefe ftupen- dous mountains, a few rich vallies inter- vene, each with its little village, in fize proportioned to the extent of land fufcep- tible of cultivation. In the ravins through which we pafTed, I obferved that all the mills have horizon- tal water wheels. Thefe grind the corn very ilowly, being fed by fingle grains; but then to compenfate for this defect, they place many near together, and the fame little flream having communicated motion to one wheel, paffes in fucceffton to the reft. Thefe are well fuited to a country abounding o [ 6i ] abounding with Hone for building, where water runs with rapidity down a fteep defcent, and where difpatch is not re- quired. October 4, as we defcended towards Le- on, we overtook a Merino flock, belonging to the monaftery of Guadalupe, in Eftra- madura. Thefe monks have fufficient land near home to keep their flock during the winter months; but in the fummer, when their own mountains are fcorched, they fend their fheep into the north, where, having no lands, they are obliged to pay for pailurage. They were on their return towards the fouth. . , The great lords, and the religious houfes, to whom belong thefe trajhumantes, or tra- velling flocks, have peculiar privileges fe- cured to them by a fpecial code, called laws of the Meftaj privileges, by many considered as inconfiftent with the general good. This inflitution has been traced back to the year 1350, when the plague, which ra- vaged Euiope for feveral years, had defo- lated Spam, leaving only one- third of its former inhabitants to cultivate the foil. But [ 62 ] But perhaps we ought to look for its origin in more remote and diftant ages, when the whole country was occupied by fhepherd nations, and when agriculture was but little known. Thefe certainly were the firft in- habitants, or if not the firft, at leaft, as the votaries of Pan, that venerable protector of the fleecy tribe, they may claim precedency before the more modern worfhippers of Ceres. Occupying the hills with their nu- merous flocks and herds, it was natural for them in winter to quit a country then co- vered deep with fnow, and to feek the more temperate regions of the fouth -, till thefe, burnt up by the returning fun, refufed them paflure, and drove them back again to the mountains of the north, which, dur- ing the fummer months, are covered with perpetual verdure by the gradual melting of the fnow. The numbers of the Merino llieep are continually varying. Cajaleruela, who wrote A. D. 1627, complained that they were re- duced from feven millions to two millions and an half. Uflariz reckoned in his time four millions ; but now they are near five. The proprietors are numerous, fome having 8 only [ «3 ] only three or four thoufand, while others have ten times that number. The Duke of In- fantado has forty thoufand. Each proprietor has a mayoral or chief fhepherd, to whom he allows annually one hundred doblons, or jC.75, and a horiej and for every flock of two or three hundred fheep, a feparate fhepherd, who is paid according to his merit, from eight millings a month to thirty, befides two pounds of bread a day for himfelf, and as' much for his dog, with the privilege of keeping a few goats on his own account. The produce of wool is reckoned to be about five pounds from every ewe, and eight from the wethers j and to fhear eight of the former, or five of the latter, is reckoned a good day's work. Some, indeed, allow twelve fheep to every fhearer; but even this comes fhort of what we do in England, where a common hand will difpatch fixty in a day, and a good workman has been known to finiih half as many more. The wool of the Merino fheep is worth little lefs than twelve pence a pound, whilft that of the ftationary flocks fells for only fix pence; and every fheep is reckoned to yield [ 64 ] yield a clear profit of ten pence to the pro- prietor, after all expences are difcharged. . When the fheep are travelling, they may feed freely on all the waftes and commons ; but, in palling through a cultivated coun-» try, they mull be confined within their proper limits in a way, which is ninety va- ras wide. Hence it comes to pafs, that, in fuch inhofpitable diftricts, they are made to travel at the rate of fix or feven leagues a day ; but where paflure is to be had, they are fullered to move very flow. When they are to remove, either in the fpring or autumn, if the lord has no lands, where his flocks are to be ftationed, the chief lhep- herd goes before, and engages agiftment, either of thofe proprietors who have more than fufficient for themfelves, or of the corporations, who, in Spain, have ufually extenfive waftes and commons round their cities. It is to thefe claims of the Merino flock that fome political writers have attributed the want of cultivation in the interior pro- vinces of Spain. On defcending once more into the plains of [ 6 S ] of Old Caftille, an obfervation, confirmed by all with whom I had any communication on the fubjec"t, occurred to me, that the wine on the fouth fide of the mountains, being tranfported to the north, improves greatly in its flavour, precifely as other wines improve by being removed to warmer climates. At the end of three days, when I arrived at Leon, I was fo well fatisfied with the attention of my guide, that we made a frefh agreement, and he accompanied me to Sa- lamanca. For himfelf, and for his mule, I was to allow him a hard dollar, or about four millings a day, both in going and re- turning, he being to pay all his own ex- pences on the road, which, for a ftranger, is the belt plan, although the natives find it more advantageous to maintain their guides. Having fettled all preliminaries, and made provifion for the journey; on the 6th of October, we turned our backs on Leon ; and, being by this time tolerably acquainted with eaoh others dialed;, we began a con- vention by the way. The honefl fellow, taking a hearty fwig at the borracho, or leathern bottle, which contained our wine, Vol. II. F broke t 66 ] broke the filerice, by telling me, that this was the fkin of his moft favourite cat ; and then, continuing his difcourfe, gave me the hiftory, both of the cat and of the countries through which he had travelled with her fpoil. — This was to him, in all his journeys, a conftant companion, a never-failing fource of confolation ; and he appeared to be as fond of her now dead, as it was poflible for him to have been, whilft fhe was fenfible of his carerTes. The fkin contained about a gallon, and ufually ferved us, when filled, for more than half a day. The way was over an extenfive plain of fand and gravel, evidently brought from diftant hills, all fmooth, and rounded by the action of water. The crops are chiefly rye, with fome wheat and barley. The trees are the ilex, the poplar, and the elm. I was ftruck with the conftruction of their ploughs, not merely as having neither fheet, coulter, mould- board, fin (for to this defect I was become familiar), but as hav- ing the (hare morticed into the curved beam at leaft three inches above its heel, creating thereby a degree of friction, which mull: greatly increafe the labour of the oxen. Women [ 6 7 ] Women hold the plough. The cart-wheels are of plank, fixed upon the axis, like thofe in the Afturias, only they are better made. The numerous villages contain from fifty to five or fix hundred mud-wall cottages, but feem in general to be going to decay. The inns are more wretched than thofe of the Afturias, and are thought to be confi- derable, if they make up more than one bed. At Toral, where we flept the firfr. night from Leon, as foon as we arrived, I fur- veyed the premifes, and made out my in- ventory of the furniture ; finding in the chamber (for they had only one) two beds, two broken benches, one crippled table, and a little lamp dripping its oil, and fmok- ing in the middle of the room. This cir- cumftance is not uncommon, becaufe they have no candles, and their lamps are of the moil rude conftruction. I was, however, too much of a traveller to feel difguft, and was preparing to fettle myfelf comfortably, when an old canon of Oviedo, with two fchool-boys, and a young friar, entering, told me, that they had befpoken this room fome days before. I bowed fubmifiion, but F 2 flopped I 68 ] itopped one moment to enquire the age of this young friar. He informed me, that he was now in his feventeenth year -, and that, two years before, at Aviles, in the Afturias, having accompliihed his noviciate, he had bound himfelf by the irrevocable vows. When I had retired, my faithful guide informed me, that he had procured a bed for me at the houfe of the curate, who was a friend of his, whither he inftantly con- ducted me. Here I met with fuch a re- ception, that I had no reafon to lament my difappointment at the pofada. The next morning we arrived at Bena- vente, and in the way had occafion to ob- ferve a change of drefs. In this refpecT:, every province has fomething peculiar to itfelf. The peafants, who attracted my at- tention, were from Aftorga. They had round hats, leather jackets without fleeves, and trowfers fomewhat refembling thofe of Dutchmen, perfectly correfponding with what were formerly worn by the Brachati. Benavente is at preient remarkable only for the palace of the dutchefs, a vaft and ihapelefs pile, pofleffing the marks of great antiquity, [ 69 ] antiquity, and commanding a moil exten- five property. This city feems to be going to decay, yet includes fix convents. It is divided into nine parifhes, and reckons two thoufand two hundred and thirty-four fouls. Bread is here three quarts, or JJ penny a pound of fixteen ounces ; beef is feven quarts, or a fmall fraction under two pence; and mutton is two pence farthing a pound. The beft wine is about five pence a gallon. Thefe are the flated prices, when beef and mutton are to be had ; but my guide having neglected to make provifion for himfelf, mull have been contented to pick the bones of my miferable fowl, had it not been for the bounty of a traveller, who had more than he could eat. The road from Leon to Zamora is about eighteen Spanifh leagues, all the way near the Efla, a little river whofe water runs into the Duero below Zamora. From this circumftance the way is moflly level; the foil, to a great depth, is either granite fand, or clay of a weak contexture ; and the vil- lages are compofed of mud-wall cottages. At Santa Ovena, having the curiofity to F 3 meafure [ 7° ] meafure the room, which, like moft in Spain, ferved the double purpofe of bed- chamber and parlour, I found it to be twelve feet by ten ; yet, in thefe contracted limits were contained, a bed, the trefTels for ano- ther, a chair, a table, with two large chefts for the king's tobacco, for barley, linen, and all the treafures of the family. The kitchen is nearly of the fame dimeniions: yet in this pofada I counted thirty-five horfes, mules, and afTes, with their riders and drivers, who all found lodging for the night. Whilil I was at fupper, an old beggar entered. "When I had given him bread, he kiffed it, bowed his head, and left the room. Struck with his behaviour, I fol- lowed him. inftantly, and gave him money ; he bowed, kiffed it in filence, and left the inn. Zamora, a city of great antiquity, is at prefent reduced very low, but formerly it muft have been confiderable, and will, I have no doubt, foon regain its confequence. Situated in a fertile country, on the con- fines of Portugal, watered by the Duero, and near the conflux of the Ella, it muft always have invited plenty - t and when the communi- ' [ fl J communication mall be opened by the ca- nal, for the tranfport of its productions, it will daily grow in wealth. The extent of its fortifications, twenty-three parifh churches, and fixteen convents, inclofed within the walls, in fome meafure ferve to fhew what it was 5 and the recent decorations of the cathedral give a good fpecimen of what it may hereafter be. This building is old, but the altar is modern, and is much to be ad- mired for the variety of its marbles, chiefly from the Afturias ; for the elegance of its compofition ; and for the beauty of its hang- ings, which are made of crimfon velvet, richly embroidered with gold. The chief manufactures are, of hats, ferges, coarfe cloth, and nitre ; but for the latter the climate is by no means favour- able. Beef is cheaper than at Benavente, being here only fix quarts, or fomething more than three halfpence a pound ; but pork is nearly three times as much. From Zamora we travelled only three leagues, and refted for the night at CorraIes p a village of three hundred and fixty cot- tages. It was not till next morning that I F 4 fully [ 7* ] fully comprehended for what reafon we had made fo mort a journey the preceding day; but, upon our entering an extenfive foreft, my provident conductor told me, that he always chofe to meet the morning, rather than to be overtaken by the night, when- ever he was to pafs through a foreft, and that, by fuch precautions, he had frequently efcaped unmolefted, where others had been robbed. From Corrales we afcended gently for three leagues, and then defcending as many, at the end of {even hours we reached Ca/- zada de Valdeunciel, having travelled for at leaft five hours through a foreft, in which, as we proceeded, my guide told me the names of the eminences to be panned, all diftinguifhed by one generic term Co?tfef- Jionarios; implying, that on thefe the tra- veller would Hand in need of a conferlbr to prepare him for his fate. Conlidering the vafl extent of this forell;, and its vicinity to Portugal, no fituation can be more fa- vourable to robbers, or to the fmuggler who, when he has been plundered himfelf, is apt to plunder others. The foil here is moil evidently decom- pofed t 73 1 pofed granite, with its quartz, feld fpat, and mica. The trees are chiefly ilex, roble, and the cork tree. All the way from Leon to Salamanca, for three and thirty leagues, or about one hundred and fifty miles, the country is fo flat and open, that the Moorifh horle, when they invaded Spain, muit have met with nothing to impede their progrefs ; becaufe, in fuch extenfive plains, an oppreffed peo- ple, difpirited and difarmed, could have little inclination to make refinance; and had it not been for a more hardy race in- habiting the mountains of the north, the whole peninfula might at this moment have been numbered among the followers of Mahomet. When I directed my courfe towards Sa- lamanca, it was with a view of paying a vifit, by appointment, to the marquis of Ovieco, but, unfortunately for me, on my arrival, I found that he was detained by ill— nefs at Madrid. This difappointment was the more vexatious, becaufe I had no let- ters, nor any profpec~t of being introduced. I ventured, however, to prefent myfelf to Dr ? Curtis, prefident of the Irifh college, who [ 74 ] who received me with politenefs, took mc under his protection, and, during my ten days abode at Salamanca, confidered me as part of his family. His fituation is refpeclable, and the con- vent, part of which he occupies, is one of the befl in Spain. It was built A. D. 1614, by the jefuits, but, upon their expulfion, being found much too extenfive for any one fociety, it was divided ; the fouth fide being given to the Trim, and the north to the bi- ihop of the diocefe for his fludents. The wing, in the occupation of the former, is three ftories high, and more than two hundred feet long. In the middle of each, through the whole extent, there runs a wide gallery to form a communication between a double range of bed - rooms. Thjefe long galleries having no light ex- cepting at the ends, are well adapted to the climate: for even at noon, and during the moft diffolving heats of fummer, they af- ford a cool retreat. The whole building is covered with a terrace walk, commanding all the country; and here the young men take the air. The wing devoted to the bifhop's col- lege [ 75 1 lege is nearly fimilar to this, with the ad- dition of a cloifter, and an elegant apart- ment of fixty feet by thirty, defigned for conference and difputations. The church is in common to both efta- blifhments, and is built upon fuch a plan as muft do credit to the tafte as well as to the wealth of the difgraced Community. In the Irifh college, threefcore ftudents are received at a time, and when thefe are fent back to Ireland, the fame number from thence are admitted, to be like them trained up for the miniftry. Their courfe of education requires eight years. They are expected to come well founded in the languages ; and of the time allotted to them in Spain, four years • are given up to the ftudy of philofophy, the remainder to divi- nity. The fyflem of philofophy includes logic, metaphyfics, mathematics, phyiics, and ethics. For thefe they read Jacquier ; and for theology they follow P. Collet. They rife every morning at half pah: four, and have no vacations. The mode of giving lectures is perhaps peculiar to themfelves, but worthy to be followed in our univerfities. The ftudents 6 have • [ 76 ] have queftions propofed for their difcuffion twice every day, and on thefe they are in- formed what books to read; then, fup- poiing the fubject to admit of a difpute, it is carried on by two of them under the direction of a moderator, who gives affirm- ance when it is wanted, and guides them to the truth. Where this mode of pro- ceeding is not admiilible, the tutors, in- stead of giving formal lectures, employ themfelves in the examination of their pu- pils, and the buiinefs of instruction is thus greatly expedited. Dr. Curtis lives with his pupils like a father with his children; and, although in a ftate of banifhment, feems happy in the difcharge of his important functions. It is, however, much to be lamented, that he and they mould be reduced to the neceffity of feeking that protection in a foreign and dif- tant country, to which they are entitled in their own. This kind of perfecution is nei- ther juffc nor politic. It is certain that igno- rance and bigotry have a ftrong connection. Would you overcome inveterate prejudices, and are you anxious to baniih fuperftition ? let in the light. Would you conciliate the affections [ 77 ] affections of thole who differ from you in their religious creed ? no longer perfecute. Embrace them, and from enemies they will become your friends -, let in the light, and difference of opinion dies away. Catholics, in the more enlightened countries, are no longer papifts ; their whole fyftem is going to decay; and, without claiming more than common fagacity, we may venture to fore- tel, that in proportion as the limits of to- leration fhall be extended, all that cannot bear the light will gradually vanifh, till the diftinction between catholics and protectants lhall ceafe. To haften this event, the education of catholics in Ireland, for the purpofe of the miniftry, mould not only be connived at, but mould meet with all poffible encou- ragement. The univerfity of Salamanca was founded in the year 1200, by Alfonfo IX, king of Leon, and regulated by Alfonfo, furnamed the Wife, (A. D. 1254) under whofe pro- tection nourifhed the greater!: aflronomers of Europe. This feminary foon rofe into importance, and became eminent in Eu- rope by acquaintance with the Arabian au- thors, and, through them, with the Greek. Its [ 7» ] Its proferlbrs tranflated Avicena, who took the lead in medicine, and Averroes, who had beftowed much time in ftudying Arif- totle ; but not fatisned with copying from the Arabs, they laboured much themfelves, and became juftly famous in their day for their knowledge in j urifprudence, and for their progrefs in all the fciences then culti- vated in Europe. The reverence of the fjrfr profeffors of this university for Ariftotle and for Thomas Aquinas, continues to the prefent day. The court indeed has long declared war againfr. them both, and repeat- edly commanded that they mould be abandon- ed ; but, not having adopted fuch methods as are practicable, to fecure obedience, the old profeflbrs walk in the fame path in which their fathers walked before them. We are not however to imagine that Sa- lamanca produces no men of liberal ideas. Far be it from us to entertain fuch a thought; becaufe we know that even in the darkeft ages, fome men of fcience were hid in con- vents, who, had they lived in more favour- able times, would have difFufed light, and have been admired in the world. One fuch, and I doubt not there may be many, I met with in D. Jofeph Diaz, a father of the Au- guftines - 3 [ 79 ] guftines ; who, for learning, good fenfe, and liberality of fentiment, would be an ornament to any country. The ftudents were formerly reckoned about fixteen thoufand, but they are now much reduced; and, in 1785, the number of matriculas was nineteen hundred and nine. In a curious edict of Charles V. for the regulation of mendicity, we find a claufe permitting ftudents in theuniverfities to beg, provided they have a licence from the rec- tor : but in the prefent day they appear to be in a more refpe&able condition, and few, if any, take advantage of this privilege. The library is fpacious, and tolerably well furniihed with modern books; yet the bulk is trafh, confirming principally of fcholaftic divinity. Of all the public edifices, the cathedral is the mofl worthy of attention. The foun- dation of this ancient ftructure was laid A. D. 151 3, but it was not finished till 1734. It is three hundred and feventy- eight feet long, one hundred and eighty- one wide in the clear, one hundred and thirty high in the nave, and eighty in the ailes. The whole is beautiful, but the molt tfriking part of this church, and of many public buildings in this city, is the fculp- ture, [ 8° ] ture, which merits admiration, not only for the tafte therein difplayed, but for its ex- cellent prefervation. Over the principal door is reprefented, in bold relief, the ado- ration of the fages j and over another, the public entrance of Chrifl into Jerufalem* all appearing as frefh and fharp as if they were but recently put up. The church of the Dominicans comes little fhort of the cathedral in point of fculpture. It has a representation of St* Stephen ftoned, with a crucifix above it, all as large as life, and not apparently in- jured by the weather. Indeed in both thefe edifices the carvings are in fome meafure protected, not from a driving rain, but from its perpendicular defcent, becaufe they link back as much as the thicknefs of the wall will permit, which is at leafr fix feet, and are furrounded by mouldings projecting confiderably beyond the wall. The pre- caution, without doubt, was prudent ; yet I was not a little flruck when I obferved the ornaments of bafs -relief preferving their fharpeft angles, even when expofed to the full force of the deftru&ive elements. This circumftance may be readily accounted for, when we confider that the ftone is a grit, which [ »i ] which when firft taken from the quarry, is foftj but, upon being expofed to the air, acquires hardnefs. Hence it is peculiarly- valuable both to the architect and the fculp- tor ; and to thefe properties we may attri- bute the beautiful monuments of art which abound in Salamanca. It would be tedious to defcribe the con- vents and public feminaries of this once fa- mous city ; yet, to pais them all in filence, would be inexcufable. I therefore briefly mention fuch as are moft worthy of atten- tion. Among thefe may certainly be reckoned the old college. Here the quadrangle is fmall, yet elegant; and the cloifter, with its four and twenty columns, one of the prettiefr. in Salamanca: the apartments are commodious, and thofe of the regent are in a fuperior ftile. The college of the archbilhop is built upon a larger fcale, more light and airy, and having four galleries of one hundred and thirty feet, with two and thirty co- lumns fupported by as many, which form the cloifter, it may be called magnificent. The date of this building is 1550. Vol. II. G Cuenca [ 8 2 J Cuenca college is remarkable at prefent for its neatnefs and fimplicity; but the portico, when finished, will place it among the moft elegant buildings of this city. The college of Oviedo, with the churches of the Augujiinos Calzados and of the Car- melitas Defcalzos, defer ve attention. Of all thefe colleges and convents, it were endlefs to enumerate the treafures and rich jewels defigned for the fervice of the altar. Whatever is moft valuable, the produce of Europe, Afia, Africa, and America, is here collected; and the beffc workmen, in every country, have exerted all their tafte and fkill, each in his feveral branch, to mew the perfection of his art. The ornaments and drefles of the priefts are both rich and beautiful ; but the mod coftly piece of fur- niture, in moil convents, is the Cuftodia, that is, the depofitory of the hoft, or, ac- cording to the ideas of a catholic, the throne of the Moft High, when, upon fo- lemn festivals, he appears to command the adoration of mankind. It is not uncom- mon to expend fix thoufand ounces of /li- ver upon one of thefe, befides gold and precious ftones ; yet, in moft of them, the work- [ 8 3 ] workmanfhip furpafTes the value of the materials. The great fquare, although lafl men- tioned, is not leaft worthy of attention. I had almofc. hourly occafion to pafs through it, and never faw it without pleafure. It is fpacious, regular, built upon arches, and furrounded with piazzas. Such a fquare would be admired even in London, or in Paris ; but in a city like Salamanca, where all the ftreets are narrow, it gives peculiar expanfion to the lungs, when you find yourfelf at liberty to breathe, when light burfts upon you by furprife, and when fymmetry unites with greatnefs in all the objects by which you are encompaffed. The portico is not more to be admired for its beauty in the day, than for the pro- tection it affords by night; becaufe in this city they have an execrable cuftom, both ofFenfive to the noflrils, and deftructive of good clothes, fimilar to that, for which the inhabitants of the Old Town in Edinburgh have been defervedly reproached. In the year 1030, there was not a lingle convent in Salamanca; and in 1480, previous to the difcovery of America, they had only fix for men, and three for women ; but now G 2 there t 84 1 there are thirty-nine. In 1 5 1 8, they count- ed eleven thoufand virgins. At prefent the perfons under vows are happily reduced to one thoufand five hundred and nineteen. The houfes are no more than three thou- fand, yet they have twenty - feven pariili churches, with fifteen chapels, and the clergy are, of thofe that are parochial, three hundred and ninety-nine ; of the cathedral, one hundred thirty-two; befides the royal clergy of S. Mark, forty-nine ; amounting in the whole to five hundred and eighty. In a city where the convents and clergy are fo numerous, it may be well expected, that beggars will abound ; and agreeably to this idea it is feen, that by the ample pro- vifion here made for lazinefs, every ftreet fwarms with vagabonds, not merely with thofe, who are proper objects of compaf- fion, but with wretches, who, if compelled to work, would be found abundantly able to maintain themfelves. There is indeed an hofpicio, or general work-houfe, for their reception ; but as the funds are li- mited, and do not amount to fixteen hun- dred pounds a year, it can fupport only four hundred and fifty paupers. Should, however, the government be inclined to in- creafe t 8 5 ] creafc thefe funds, it will make no great difference, becaufe the numbers both in the work-houfe and the flreets will always bear proportion to the food diitribiited. This truth can fcarcely be inculcated too often; but I (hall defer my obfervations upon it, till I come to treat of Cadiz. Among the various implements in this hofpicio, I was h pleated with one for weaving tape, fc 3th cheap and Ample in its conflrudtion, and fo expeditious in its work, that a little child weaves near fifty yards, and a woman more than one hun- dred and twenty, in a day. I mall defcribe it by the affifbnee of a drawings C Giill!!i u. b. c. d. Is the frame. s. f. The warp, or chain. n. o, g. h. The two harnefTes. warp. i. k. Treadles to work the /. $. The roller and ratchet"- harnefs. wheel to wind the tape. tllthiHiTiv to wind the warp. The lantern to ilrain ilia m. The roller and ratchet r. The bobbin. /. The ftaie. G 3 The [ 86 ] The bobbin is worked by the left hand alone, the fingers being kept under the chain, and the thumb above it. The flaie is held in the right hand to beat up the work. I was much pleafed with the husbandry in the vicinity of this city, as being fuited to the foil. The plough has neither coul- ter, fin, nor mould-board; but near the tail of the fhare it has two pins, fo dif- pofed as to lay the furrow in high rafters or ridges, like the roof of a houfe. In this condition the land is left till feed time, when the ploughman firfr. fows the grain, then flits the furrow; and thus the feed, being all covered at an equal depth, fprings away together, and appears as if it had been drilled. This, in a light foil, is certainly much better than either to plough clean before the grain is put into the ground, or to fow it under furrow, according to the practice of fome Englifh farmers - y yet I am inclined to think that the Hampshire me- thod of fowing upon ftale fallows, and let- ting in the feed by drags, would be found more profitable. Tt is well known, that by this modern improvement, the value of land has been more [ 8 7 ] more than doubled upon all the Hampshire hills. When they were accuftomed to plough often for their wheat, as in the low countries, and upon ftrong land, it has frequently happened, that after lowing four bufhels to an acre, they have reaped only eight, and fometimes not more than half as much. But now, by fuffering the land to fettle, by fcattering their feed upon the ground, when the whole perhaps is cover- ed with thiftles, and by palling their heavy drags twice over the field, moving each time the length-way of the furrow, they make a faving on the quantity of feed, and more than double the produce they were accuf- tomed to receive. By improving on this practice, that is, by pufhing the principle fo far as to fold his fheep upon the land as fail as he had fown it, a judicious farmer, who lives at Cholterton in Wiltfhire, a few years fince reaped forty bufhels from an acre, on land which, with different management^ would probably never have yielded back the feed he fowed. When I exprefs myfelf fatisfied with the hufbandry in the neighbourhood of Sala- manca, it is only fo far as it relates to G 4 ploughing ; [ 88 ] ploughing i for, in no other refped: has it any claim to approbation. The ploughman and the grazier, inftead of being united in the fame perfon, are here eternally at vari- ance; and as the latter is the beft tenant, the great proprietors give him the prefer- ence. Hence the country has been depo- pulated, and the lands, whish are in tillage, for want of cattle to manure and tread them, produce light crops of corn. This bimopric formerly contained feven hundred and forty- eight corporation towns ; but now it has only three hundred and thirty-three, the other four hundred and fifteen being de- ferted, and their arable lands reduced to pafture. To fuch an extent is the depo- pulation fpread, that, in a fpace of {even leagues in length, and five in breadth, which formerly contained one hundred and twenty- feven towns, each with its corregidor and council, only thirteen remain. Thefe have forty-feven churches. The foil, I have faid, is light. It is a fand, and evidently a decompofed granite, becaufe, upon examination, it is fcen to be plentifully charged with a fine white mica. The rock is chiefly granite, covered in fome )lace pjn [ 3 9 ] places with fchift, but in others with fili- cious grit, which, as it appears to me, is nothing but the fine fand or broken quarts of the granite, united by a cement. All men are. fond of fyftem : they afTem- ble facts, and are never happier, than when from thefe they can deduce fome general conclufion. The facts I wifh to have re- corded, are fuch as may trace out the ori- gin of grit; and I am at prefent much in- clined to think, that hereafter it will be given to the granite. The connection, as it relates to vicinity, ftands confelied, and may be fo far ufeful in making out the hif- tory of that great revolution which once happened to our earth ; but, from my own obfervations, I am ready to infer a more intimate connection, and that they iiand related to each other as effect and caufe, or •as the parent and his offspring. I have already fuggefted this idea, and have ventured to draw one conclufion from it in refpect to Monjouy, near Barcelona. If well founded, this will alTift us to ac- count for the aifonifhino- number of larsre grit ft.ones, or grey whethers, as they are called, on the Wilt/hire Downs, and will confirm the diluvlan fyftem firft fuggeiled by [ 90 ] by Mr. King, in die Fhilofophical Trans- actions of 1 767. One of thefe large bowlder ilones of grit, contains fragments of white opaque, and likewife of tranfparent quartz, with two flint ftones of a confiderable fize. I muft, however, referve what I have to fay upon this fubject, till I come to the defcription of the Alps, on my return from Spain. The government of the city is in a cor- regidor, one alcalde mayor, and forty-eight regidores. When I had fatisfied my curiofity at Sa- lamanca, and found my ftrength fo far re- ftored that I could with fafety profecute my journey, I made an agreement with a Mozo del CamiriOy for himfelf and mule, to go with me to the Efcurial, not by the di- rect road, but by a fmall detour, in order t to fee, at Piedrahita, a famous country-feat built by the Duke of Alba. The next day, after dinner, October 22, I took leave of Dr. Curtis with a cordial regret at parting, and fet forward on my way, proceeding to- wards Alba. For the firfl two leagues we afcended gradually ; then entered a foreft of ilex, which, as my guide informed me, flr,etches eaft [ 9i ] eaft and weft near forty leagues. The acorns here are of the kind defcribed by Horace, as the origin of war among the rude in- habitants of an infant world, " glandcm " atque cubilia propter." Not aufiere, like thofe of the oak, or of the common ilex, but fweet and palatable, like the chef- nut, they are food, not merely for the fwine, but for the peafants, and yield confiderable profit. Beyond the limits of this forefb, we began to defcend through a fine culti- vated country, abounding with corn and wine ; and at the diftance of four ihort leagues from Salamanca, we reached Alba. This city contains at prefent only three hundred houies, and has feven convents. One of them, that of the Carmelites, merits attention for its pictures, and for its trea- fures j but the greater!; curiolity is the caftle, with its round tower, fupported by four fquare ones, in which is depofited the armour of all the dukes of Alba. To this ancient edifice they have added, at fucceflive periods, more modern habitations, forming a confiderable quadrangle ; but unfortu- nately all the rooms are fmall. About three leagues from hence, we en- tered another vail forefl of the ilex, where 4 we [ 9* ] we faw many droves of fwine, a village with a church, confifting of four cottages, includ- ing the habitation of the curate. Here we took up our quarters in the middle of the day; and having left it, were proceeding towards Piedrahita, when a fall of heavy and incefTant rain compelled us to ftop fhort of it, and to have recourfe for fhelter to a miferable village called Malpartido. The pofada had only one bed for the ufe of the whole family ; and as that was occupied by a lad, fon to the good woman of the houfe, then dying of a putrid fever, we had a moft uncomfortable profpecl for the night. Be- fides the bed-chamber, they had, as ufual, a kitchen, a room of about ten feet fquare, with an elevated hearth in the centre of it, over which a little opening in the roof af- forded a vent for the fmoke. Around the hearth was a wide bench, which by day fupplied the place of chairs, and by night ferved the purpofe of a bed. Upon this they defigned to fcatter ft raw for me, leav- ing my guide to meafure his length on the bare board at the other end of this magni- ficent apartment. Happily, however, I had a pafs from count Campomanes in my poc- ket. This I fent, with my humble duty to [ 93 ] to the alcalde, requeuing that he would be pleafed to procure me a lodging for the night. In a few minutes the meffenger returned, and foon after the alcalde was announced. I rofe up inflantly, prepared to meet him with profound refpect ; but, inftead of a haughty magiftrate, fuch as my imagination had conceived him, behold a little infignificant man, humble in his ap- pearance, dreiled in a coieto, or leathern jacket deflitute of lleeves, and bound clofe round him with a girdle of the fame mate- rials. He informed me, that he had made all arrangements, and that the beft bed in the village was preparing for me. He had fcarcely finimed, when the young man, whofe place I was ro occupy, entered to expoftulate ; but the alcalde cut him fhort with no hay remedio ; and therefore, finding that it was to no purpofe to complain, he quitted ponefiion with a good grace, and took up his lodging in the houfe of fome relation. Havine thus fecured a bed, I left my guide to take good care of the al- calde, as a token of gratitude for his at- tention, and retired to my quarters for the night, In [ 94 ] In my new habitation I met with a com- fortable bed, clean meets, and a kind recep- tion from the family ; and when I was to quit them in the morning, they could not be prevailed upon to accept a recompenfe. I was much furprifed at finding fuch gene- rous fentiments in a cottage ; but I have lince had frequent opportunities of admir- ing the high fpirit of the Spaniards, and, in many injlances, their contempt for money. The putrid fever was not confined to the pofada ; it raged without reflraint ; and, not only in this village, but in thofe of the vicinity, there was fcarcely a houfe from which they had not lately buried one of the family. It is much to be lamented, that the curates in Spain are not taught the manage- ment of fevers. As they mufr. attend the dying, to adminiiier the facraments, it would be a deed of mercv well fuited to their character, and by no means inconfift- ent with their facred functions, mould they learn to prefcribe the medicines, which, in England, when properly applied, generally fucceed in checking the difeafe, and refcu- ing from death. This knowledge may be ealily acquired; and whenever it mall be univerfally [ 95 ] univerfally diffufed, fevers will ceafe to be fo deftructive as at prefent, and will be fear- ed in many cafes no more than fire, which, well regulated, is not only fafe, but falutary; yet, if fuffered to fpread, is fatal to the houfe. It is not my intention to infinuate, that the two profeffions of phyiic and divinity mould be united, but only that in every place there mould be fome one at hand, who might en- deavour to extinguish this deflruclive flame the moment it appears -, and, confidering how fmall and thinly fcattered are the vil- lages in Spain, and how wretched their in- habitants, the curate is the only perfon from whom they may naturally expect, relief. The country beyond Malpartido is ex- ceedingly broken ; and the granite rocks, expofing their rugged fronts without a co- vering, mew clearly, that the fummit of this great chain of mountains is not remote. We had been afcending all the way from Salamanca j but having left the Tonnes, as we draw nigh to Piedrahita, the waters take another courfe, and run into the Adaja, Piedrahita is a village of one hundred and fifty houfes, with three convents and a bea- terio, belonging to the dutchefs of Alba, and famous f 96 J famous only on account of a country-feat erected here by the late duke, in imitation of the Engliih. Inftead of being built round a court, with a corridor, like the Spanifh houfes, it prefents a front of one hundred feet, with two projecting wings of iixty feet; and the ground floor, inftead of bein<< aban- doned to coach-houfc and fb.bles, is occu- pied by the kitchen, the offices, and the principal apartments ; and over thefe, are bed-chambers for fervants. Contrary to the Spaniih cuftom, every room is ceiled, and the walls are papered.' Altogether, it is a comfortable refidence ; but, to an English- man, it has no great pretenfions. Had not the fairefl part of its furniture been remov- ed, it would have feemed more beautiful ; for the dutchefs, who had been there with her friends for a few weeks during the greateft. heats of fumrner, was lately return- ed to court, and her prefence would have made a more humble habitation appear en- chanting. In leaving Piedrahita, we continued along the valley, lhut in between high mountains, all covered with the ilex and gumciflus. Thefe, mixed with the grey granite rocks, make [ 97 1 make a beautiful appearance. As we ad- vanced, we overtook feveral Merino flocks returning to the fouth. Near the Co/as del Puerto, we entered another valley, running eaft and weft near ten leagues, and never much more than a mile in breadth. At the end of it, ftands Avifa. The foil is land ; the plough is like that Lift defcribed ; the fields are divided into iinall portions ; and the pafture is common. Their lheep are folded, and the lhepherd remains all night with his dogs near his flock, flickered only by a ftraw cabin, juft larre enough to ftretch himfelf at length. They have no iron about their carts, either on the wheels or axle-tree ; the whole is wood. The oxen are yoked in pairs, and draw heavy burdens by rheir horns. The drefs of the peafant is the coleto. As foon as we arrived in Avila, I vifited the market, to make, as ufual, proviiion for the day ; and having purchafed a kid, which, when the Merino flocks are pafting, fells for about ten reales, or two (hillings, I fent it to the cook's /hop, and then bepan my rambles. Whilft I was making fome inquiries, a gentleman accofted me, gave . Vol. II. It me [ 9« 1 me the informations I required, undertook himfelf to be my guide, and, before we parted, made me engage to dine with him. This was D. Baltafar Lezaeta, a preben- dary of the cathedral ; from whom I re- ceived as much attention as if I had been recommended by a friend, v Avila has at prefent only a thoufand houfes, or one-fixth part of its former po- pulation ; yet the convents are not dimi- nished, being fixteen in number, nine for men, feven for women. Befides thefe, it maintains eight parim churches, a cathe- dral with forty canons, five hofpitals, and a univerlity. No wonder, then, that it ihould fvvarm, as it does, with Sturdy beg- gars. This city, built upon a granite rock, and in doled by a wall, with eighty-eight pro- jecting towers, has every where the appear- ance of great antiquity, but more efpecially in the cathedral. In this are many things worthy of at- tention, but principally the cloifter, for its exquilite neatnefs, and elegant Simplicity. The facrifty is a good building, and the treafure contained in it, both in plate and 8 jewels, [ 99 ] jewels, would in England be called inesti- mable. The cuftodia, as ufual, of folid iil- ver, is four feet high, adorned with Ionic, Compofite, and Corinthian columns, and difplays much tafle both in its defign and execution. Among their jewels they have the pectoral of the late archbi'hop of To- ledo, the infant don Luis, valuable chiefly for its gems, all large and of the fineft wa- ter. The choir has beautiful carvings. Of the convents, the moil remarkable are thofe of the Carmelites; one for nuns, the other for friars ; the latter built upon the fpot where S. Terefa was born, the former where me took the veil. In this, the prin- cipal thing at prefent worthy to be noticed, is a picture by Morales, reprefenting a dead Chrifl in his mother's arms ; of which, nothing need be faid after having named the painter, becaufe all his works have fuch peculiar foftnefs and expreffion, that men have univerfally agreed in calling him, di- vine. The Carmelites of Avila once pof- feffed a treafure infinitely more valuable to them, than all the pictures ever painted by Morales : this was the body of S. Terefa. It was originally interred at Alba, A. D. H 2 1582, [ IOO ] 1582, but three years afterwards It was fecretly taken up, and conveyed to Avila, where it was not fufTered long to reft ; for the duke of Alba finding all other expedi- ents vain, made application to the pope, and obtained an order for its return. The life of S. Terefa, lately published among thofe of other faints, by the Rev. A. Butler, is peculiarly interefting. Her frame w T as naturally delicate, her imagina- tion lively, and her mind, incapable of be- ing fixed by trivial objects, turned with avidity to thofe, which religion offered, the moment they were prefented to her view. But unfortunately meeting with the writ- ings of S . Jerom, me became enamoured of -the monadic life, and quitting the line, for which nature defigned her, fhe renounced the moil endearing ties, and bound herfelf by the irrevocable vow. Deep melancholy then feized on her, and increafed to fuch a degree, that for many days fhe lay both motionlefs and fenfelefs, like one who is in a trance. Her tender frame, thus fhaken, prepared her for extafies and virions, fuch as it might appear invidious to repeat, were they not related by herfelf, and by her greatefl [ 101 ] grcatcft admirers. She tells us, that in the fervour of her devotion, fhe not only be- came infcnlible to every thins: around her, but that her body was often lifted up from the earth, although flic endeavoured to re~ fift the motion ; and bifhop Yepez reL.tes in particular, that when (he was Booing to receive the eucharift at Aviia, me was railed in a rapture higher than the grate, through which, as ufual in nunneries, it was prefented to her. She often heard the voice of God, when me was recovered from a trance j but fometimes the devil, by imi- tation, endeavoured to deceive her ; yet (he was always able to detect the fraud. She frequently faw S. Peter and S. Paul ftand- ing on her left hand, whilft our Lord pre- fented himfelf before her eyes in fuch a manner, that it was impoflible for her to think it was the devil; yet, in obedience to the church, and by the advice of her confeffor, fhe infulted the vifion, as me had been ufed to do the evil fpirits, by crofting herfelf, and making figns of feorn. Once, when fhe held in her hand the crofs which was at the end of her beads, our Lord took it from her, and when he reftored it, ihe H 3 law [ 102 ] faw it compofed of four large gems incom- parably more precious than diamonds. Thefe had his five wounds engraved upon them after a moft curious manner ; and he told her, that me mould always fee that fame appearance : and fo fhe did ; for from that time. fhe no longer faw the matter, of which the crofs was made, but only thefe precious ftones, although no one faw them but herfelf. Whenever devils appeared to her in hideous forms, fhe foon made them keep their diflance, by fprinkling the ground with holy water. She had often the happinefs of feeing fouls freed from purgatory, and carried up to heaven; but fhe never faw more than three which efcap- ed the purifying flame, and thefe were F. Peter of Alcantara, F. Ivagnez, and a Car- melite friar. It is acknowledged, that many of her friends, diftinguifhed for their good fenfe and piety, after examination, were of opinion, that fhe was deluded by the devil; yet fuch was the complexion of the times, that fhe was at lafl univerfally regarded as a faint. She had indeed every thing needful to conciliate the good opinion of her friends, and the admiration [ io 3 ] admiration of the multitude. The grace - fulnefs and dignity of her appearance, the foftnefs of her manners, and the lovelinefs of her difpofition, the quicknefs of her wit» the ftrength of her underilanding, and the fire of her imagination, all her natural ac- complimments receiving luftre from her exalted piety and zeal, from the fanctity of her life, and the fe verity of her difciplinej, all confpired to eftabliih her reputation, as one that had immediate intercourfe with heaven. It is curious, yet moil humiliating, to fee a perfon of this defcription, amiable and refpectable as S. Terefa, deceived, and> with the Deft intentions, deceiving others, In this inftance, we can readily account for the delufion from the delicacy and weak- nefs of her frame, the ftrength of a dii- turbed imagination, and the prevalence of fuperflition. But when we fee men of the fineft understandings, in perfect health, of different and diftant nations, in all ages, treading upon the fame inchanted ground, we can only wonder - y for who can give any rational account of the aberrations of our reafon ? The hiflory of myfticifm, if well H 4 written, t 104 ] written, would be highly intereiling, as em- bracing fome of the nnefl characters that were ever admired in the world. Should any able writer be engaged to undertake this work, he will explain to us the prin- ciples upon which Boffuet, that prodigy, of learning, perfecuted Fenelon, .the moil amiable of men, whiift S. Francis of Sales was the object of his adoration ; and why he poured contempt upon Madame Guion, whiift he had the higkefl reverence for S. Terefa. This extraordinary woman, cherimed by fovereign princes, univerfally admired whilit living, and worshipped when dead, had the happinefs of leaving behind her fixteen nunneries, and fourteen convents of friars, founded by herfelf, and fubjeel to the order of Carmelites, which ihe had reformed. . Avila, although it no longer poflefles her remains, yet, as the place of her nati- vity and chief refidence, is much, reforted to at the feafon of her feftival. It has no ma- nufactures. Some years iince they began making cloth, but the fituation not being favourable, the project was abandoned,- and their dependence atprefent is on the produce. of [ i«5 1 of the foil. The country abounds with faf- fron, and this for a feaibn finds employment for the women and the children. Were it not for the cathedral and the convents, the city would be deferfed, becaufe not one pro- prietor of land reiides here ; the whole be- ing either rented, or held in admimjlration y as they exprefs it; that is, cultivated by Rewards on the proprietors account. No country can fuffer more than Spain for want of a rich tenantry ; and, perhaps, none in this refpect can rival England. We find univerfally that wealth produces wealth; but then, to produce it from the earth, a due proportion of it muff be in the pocket of the farmer. Many gentlemen among us, either for amufement,.or with a view to gain, have given attention to agri- culture, and have occupied much land; they have produced luxuriant crops, and have introduced good hufbandry; but, I apprehend, few can boaft of having made much profit, and mod are ready to confefs that they have fuftered lofs. If, then, rc- iiding on their own eflates, with all their attention, they are confiderable lofers ; how great would be the lofs, if in diilant pro- vinces [ ic6 ] vinces they employed only fte wards, t© ■plough y to fow, to fell, and to eat up all the produce of their lands ? In France they are fo fenfible of this, that for want of wealthy farmers, the proprietor finds ftock, and takes his proportion of the produce ; but in Spain, excepting a few provinces, the lands are commonly in adminiftration ; and hence, extenlive diftricts yield only a contemptible revenue to their lord* From Avila we proceeded about a league through a rich valley, and then began to climb thofe mountains, which, dividing the two Caftilles, formed for many ages the itrong barrier between the Chriilians and the Moors; till Ferdinand I. defcending with the united forces, of Caftille and Leon into the plain, drove the infidels before him, and difplayed his victorious banners in Guadalajara, Aleak, and Madrid. On thefe hie;h mountains we travelled near five leagues without feeing a human face, or habitation, and fcarcely a beaten track* At a lower level we found the ilex. As we afcended, thefe were iiicceeded by the fable oak; but near the fummit we law only { io 7 ] only pines, with the juniperus europeus, the daphne mezereum, the matricaria fua- vis, the genifla, and a variety of aromatic herbs, but chiefly thyme. At almoft every level, the ciftus tribes abound upon the granite mountains, excepting where, like thefe, the lummits are covered with an eternal fnow. The firft little village we pafTed through, is called Naval Peraf ; the next, at the dif- tance of a league, Navas del Marques : this, although it has only fifty cottages, has a church, a chapel, and a convent. From hence we proceeded about three leagues, and then began defcending into the plains of New Caftille. All the way from Salamanca I obferved fafFron growing wild, which, if colledted, would help to employ the poor in their' villages, and yield conliderable profit. As we approached the Efcurial, we en- tered upon the king's hunting road, made like thofe of England, rather for ufe than beauty. Had the Spaniards been every where fatisried withfuch; where they have finiihed one league, they might have com- pleted twenty. Their ambition aims in every [ ip8 ] every thing at perfection, and by feeking too much, they often obtain too little. The idea they have formed to themfclves of a perfect road, in point of utility, is molt undoubt- edly well founded ; but in attempting to reduce this to practice, they are forced to lofe much time, and to expend more money than the benefit to be derived from it is worth. Had their ambition been lefs afpi- ing, ere now a communication would have been opened between all their great cities,' and much of their produce, now loft, would have found a market. This hunting read mould convince the theorifts among them, that a high-way may be firm without fide walls, and fupport any given weight with- out fuch a foundation of huge rocks as would be needf al for a calile. And al- though, for the mere purpofe of expedi- tion, to be perfectly both flrait and level would be defircable, yet the traveller is better pleafed where he finds variety, and is charmed, as he proceeds, with a conftant iucceiTion of new profpects. On my arrival at my journey's end, I found a letter from our minifter, Mr. Lifton, to inform me, that when the court left [ *°9 1 left S. ILdefonfo, where he had been for fome time expecting me, he had viiited Madrid, and that he mould not come to the Eicurial till the beginning of the week, Having therefore fome time to fpare for the excurrion, I immediately proceeded to repafs the mountains, not returning by the fame road, but going eahhvard by Guadar- rama, and cr oiling by the Puerto dc Fuen- Jria, a pafs fo called from the coldnefs of its waters. This puerto is elevated, and the profpedt from it is delightful ; but with the fcorching fun, the afcent to it is fcarcely bearable. In looking down towards Sego- via, the whole country appears level, like the furface of a lake, and extended like the ocean ; but, as we defcend into this plain. we fee the mountains rife before us. The country immediately around us, near this fummit, is majeftically wild, with deep ravins and projecting rocks, covered with pines, wherever pines can grow, and torn by raging torrents. In a deep recefs, open and expofed only to the north wind, (lands S. Ildefonfo,. en- joying freihnefs, and gathering the fruits of fpring,, [ no ] fprlng, when all to the fouth of thefe high mountains, fainting with heat, are engaged in reaping, and collecting the autumnal crops. This change of climate, in the fpace of ei^ht leao;ues, for that is the diftance from the Efcurial to S. Ildefonfo, induced Philip V. to build a palace here. S. Ildefonfo occupies three fides of a fquare, the two wings of which being join- ed, each by a long range of buildings, de- igned for the king's retinue, and clofed in at bottom by iron gates and rails ; the whole forms a beautiful and fpacious area, The principal front, of five hundred and thirty feet in length, is to the fouth, looking to the garden, and through its whole extent the apartments communicate with all the doors on the fame line. To give fome idea of the pictures, it may be furiicient to name the mafters, whole works have been here collected by Philip, and by fucceeding princes. The principal are Leonardo de Vinci, Michael Angelo, Raphael, Hannibal Caraci, Guercino, Gui- do, Carlo Maratti, Correggio, Rubens, Poufin, Paul Veronefe, Woverrnan, Te- niers, Martin de Vos, Andrea del Sarto, Vandyke^ [ III ] Vandyke, Dominicini, Tintoret, Albert Durer, Jordano, Velafquez, Ribera, Ri- balta, Valdez, Murillo, Mengs. In the church, the frefco paintings are by Bayeu, Mariano, and Maella. In the lower apartments is a collection of antique ftatues, made by Chriftina, queen of Sweden, and confidered as ineftimable. The church is dark, but elegant ; and, with refpect to treafures, has few to rival it in Spain. Among the vaft variety of o-old and filver ornaments, the moft ftrik- ing is one of the ciijlodias, valued originally at feventy thoufand ducats, or jf . 7,690. 8 s. 6d. fterling. The garden occupies a ridge, rifing to the fouth, and falling both to the eaft and to the weft. Near the palace it is laid out in the old tafte, with clipped hedges and ftraight walks, highly adorned and refreshed with numerous fountains ; but in propor- tion to the diftance, it becomes more wild, till it terminates in the uncultivated and pathlefs foreft, where the cragged rocks appearing among oaks and pines, prefent a ftriking contra ft with the works of art. This [ 1X2 J This garden, delightful for its walk?, which, although lhady, are neither damp nor gloomy, is mod to be admired for its fountains. Of thefe, the mod remarkable are eight, dedicated to the principal hea- then deities, and adorned each with its pro- per emblems. In one, Diana appears at- tended by her nymphs, who are hiding her from Acteon. In another is feen Latona with Apollo and Diana, furrounded by fix- ty-four jets of water. The mod furpriling is Fame feated on Pegafus, with a trumpet to her mouth, throwing up a dream of more than two inches in diameter to the height of one hundred and thirty-two feet. But the moil: pleafmg fight is the Plazuela de his Ocho CaUes, where eight walks unite, each with its fountain in the centre, and where eight other fountains, under lofty arches, fupported by Ionic pillars of white Italian marble, form an odlagon, adorned with the images of Saturn, Minerva, Vefta, Neptune, Ceres, Mars, Hercules, and Peace, {landing round it; and' Apollo, with Pandora, in the middle. The ftatues are all of lead, vamiihed in imitation of brafs, and were made by Fermin and Tierri. Befides [ "3 1 Befides fountains innumerable, here are vaft refervoirs and falls of water, fo dif- pofed as to contribute much to the beauty of the place. When we ' confider, that the whole of the garden was a barren rock, that the foil is brought from a great diftance, and that water is conveyed to every tree ; when we reflect upon the quantity of lead ufed for the images, and of call iron for the pipes, with the expence of workman- ship for both, we {hall not be furprifed to hear that this place coft forty-five millions of piaftres, or, in Englifh money, near fix millions and an half. Nothing is more whimfical than tafle ; but, if it be true, that beauty is founded in utility ; this place will always deferve to be admired. In the prefent day, it is not un- common to build the man lion in the mid- dle of a field, open and expofed to every wind, without fhelter, without a fence, and wholly unconnected with the garden. Near the habitation all is wild, and art, if any where, appears only at a diftance. In all this we can trace no utility, nor w T ill fuc- ceeding generations difcover beauty. On the contrary, in the garden of S. Ildefonfo, Vol. J I, I we [ '14 J we find every thing, which in a fultry fea- fon is defirable ; a free circulation of air, a deep made, and refreshing vapours to ab- forb the heat; whilft. from its contiguity to the manfion, the accefs to it is eafy, and at any time thefe comforts may be inftantly enjoyed ; yet, without thefe numerous foun- tains, the clipped hedges, and the narrow walks, the circulation would be lefs rapid, the made lefs deep, and the refrefhing va- pour would be wanting* The glafs manufacture is here carried to a degree of perfection unknown in Eng- land. The larger! mirrors are made in a brafs frame, one hundred and fixty - two- inches long, ninety - three wide, and fix deep, weighing near nine tons. Thefe are defigned wholly for the royal palaces, and for prefents from the king. Yet, even for fuch purpofes, it is ill placed, and proves a devouring monfter in a country where pro- vifions are dear, fevvel fcarce, and carriage exceedingly expenfive. Here is alfo a royal manufacture of linen, employing about fifteen looms y by which, as it is faid, the king is a confiderable lofer. Being now within the diftance of two fhort leagues from Segovia, I could not re- turn [ "5 ] turn without paying a viiit to that intereft- ing city. In the way to it, there is little appearance of cultivation, and the • obvious reafon is the continual depredations occa- fioned by the royal deer. As we pafTed through the woods, before we came into the open field, we faw vaft herds of them, unconfined, and free to range unmolefted over all the country. In Segovia, the firft object to attract the eye, is the aqueduct. It contains one hun- dred and fifty-nine arches, extends about feven hundred and forty yards, and, where it crofTes the valley, it is fomething more than ninety-four feet high. The cathedral has no great pretentions ; yet in one of the chapels there is a good altar, with the Defcent from the Crofs well executed in mezzo relievo, by a difciple of Michael Angelo, and* finiflied A. D. 1571. The church is nearly upon the model of the great church at Salamanca, but it is not fo highly finished. The Alcazar, or ancient palace of the Moors, has been fo often defcribed, that I fhould pafs it over in filence, did not the attentions I received there defer ve a parti- cular remembrance. I had no letters, and I z count t "6 ] count Lacy, the infpector, was abfent ; but* upon prefenting myfelf to his lieutenant, as a ftranger, he received me with politenefa, and conducted me to every apartment. This ftrong tower is no longer, as formerly, a ftate prifon : it ferves a more honourable purpofe, and is devoted to one hundred ca- valiers, who are here inftructed in the mi- litary fcience. The fight of this building gave me pleafure, more efpecially the great hall, with the images of all their monarchs ; but the higher!: fatisfaclion was, to fee the Spanim character ftrongly marked in the countenances of many among the young gentlemen who are educated here. A Spa- niard may pombly grow rich in trade ; he may make a progrefs in the fciences ; but, were he left to follow his natural inclina- tion, he would certainly betake himfelf to a military life -> and for that, if generoiity, if patience and fortitude, if a fpirit of enter- prize, are requiiite, in all thefe the true Spaniard will excel. Segovia was once famous for its cloth,, made on the king's account ; but ether na- tions have iince become rivals in this branch', and the manufacture in this city has been gradually declining. When the king gav$ it [ ii 7 ] it up to a private company, he left about three thoufand pounds in trade ; but now he is no longer a partner in the buiinefs. In the year 1612, were made here, twenty- five thoufand five hundred pieces of cloth, which confumed forty-four thoufand fix hundred and twenty-five quintals of wool, employed thirty-four thoufand one hun- dred and eighty-nine perfons; but at prefent they make only about four thoufand pieces. The principal imperfections of this cloth are, that the thread is not even, and that much greafe remains in it, when it is deli- vered to the dyer ; in confequence of which, the colour is apt to fail. Yet independantly of imperfections, fo many are the difadvan- tages under which the manufacture labours, that foreigners can afford to pay three pounds for the arroba of fine wool, for which the Spaniard gives no more than twenty millings, and after all his charges can command the market even in the ports of Spain. In the year 1525, the city contained five thoufand families ; but now they do not fur- pafs two thoufand : a fcanty population this for twenty-five pariihes : yet, beiides the I 3 twenty-. [ »8 1 twenty-five churches, together with the cathedral, they have one and twenty con- vents. When the canal is finished, and the communication opened to the Bay of Bifcay at S. Ander, the trade and manufactures of Segovia may revive ; but, previous to that event, there can be nothing to infpire them, with hope. As we returned (October 28,) towards New Caflille, my intention was to have travelled at our leifure j but, obferving fome degree of impatience in my guide to repafs the mountains before night, I was happy to indulge him; and the next morning, when I looked back and faw the lofty fum- mits covered deep with fnovv, I comprehend- ed the reafon of his foLcitude. The ways behind us were- rendered thus for the time impafiable, whilit all before us had been on- ly watered by foft and refrefhing mowers. In the Old Caftille, the ufual price de- manded by a muleteer is four reals a day for himfelf, as many for his mule, and fix for barley, altogether equal to 2s. yd. -, but ' mould you omit to make a bargain, you muil depend upon his mercy. The whole ex- pence of travelling may be reckoned at ten millings ( »'*'9 ] {hillings a day, if you go ftraight forwards ; but if you make a circle, or return with the fame mule, it comes to about js. 6d. The convent of S. Lorenzo is feated in a deep recefs, at the foot of thcfe high moun- tains, which feparaie the two CafUlles ; and, protected from every wind, except the fouth- eaft, it looks down upon a wide extended plain, with all the neighbouring hills cover- ed by thick woods, whiift the mountains to the north are bare, or covered almoft perpe- tually with mow. It was built by Philip II. in obedience to his father Charles V. to ac- complifh his vow made after the battle of S. Quintin, which he gained by the inter- cession of S. Lorenzo. In honour of that faint, the architect, Juan Bautifta de Toledo, took his idea from a gridiron, the inftrument on which he fuffered, making the royal re- fidence project by way of handle, and re- prefenting, not only the bars by multiplied divifions, but the legs, by four high towers placed in the angles of this edifice. The dimenfions of the convent are feven hundred and forty Spanifh feet by five hundred and eighty, and the height is fixty ; but the dome of the church is three hundred and thirty. The whole was finifhed under the I 4 infpeftion [ 120 ] infpection of Juan de Herrera, who wa§ pupil to Bautifta. The friars of this convent are one hun- dred and fixty, and their annual revenue is five millions of reals, or about fifty thoufand pounds, ariling partly from land, and partly from their flock of thirty-fix thoufand Me- rino meep, befides one thoufand kept con- flantly near home, for the confumption of the family. Their library confifts of thirty thoufand volumes, contained in two magnificent a- partments, each, one hundred and ninety- four SpanifTi, or fomething more than one hundred and eighty-two Engliih feet in length. In the lower room, are chiefly printed books ; yet in it is depofited the fa- mous manufcript of the Four Gofpels, writ- ten in gold letters, a work of the eleventh century. Over thefe are collected four thou- fand three hundred manufcripts, of which five hundred and fixty-feven are Greek, iixty-feven Hebrew, and one thoufand eight hundred Arabic, the latter well defcribed in a catalogue lately publiihed by Cafiri. In the middle of the lower room is a temple, with a great variety of figure s> containing one thoufand four hundred and forty- [ w ] forty-eight ounces of filver, and forty-three of gold, befide rich gems. To a connoirTeur in paintings, no place can afford higher entertainment than the convent of the Efcurial. In every part of it are feen the works of the befl matters, and fome of their moil capital performances. It were endlefs to enumerate particulars. Suffice it to fay, that during the refidence of a month, I never failed a fingle day vifit^ ing the convent, and never left it without regret ; always giving a more minute atten- tion to the productions of thofe artifts who are the leaft known in England. I had peculiar pleafure in finding here, fo many monuments of Titian, who, during a refi- dence of five years in Spain, conftantly ex- ercifed his pencil to enrich this nation, and to immortalize his name. The . piclures which moil: rivetted my attention, were the famous Supper of Chriil with the difciples, by Titian ; and a Holy Family, by Raphael - 3 the latter once in the poffemon of our Charles, but fold by Cromwell, and purcha- fedby the Spanifh ambailador, for two thou- sand pounds : it is called La Per/a. The bell of the piclures are collected in five :ments : in the facriily, a room of [ 122 ] of one hundred and eight by thirty- three j in the iglejia vieja, which is one hundred and five by thirty-four ; and in two halls of eighty by twenty, with their antichamber. Thefe lad: are called Las Salas de los Capi- tulos, and, whilfr the court is here, are oc- cupied by count Florida Blanca, on his pub- lic days, The great ftair-cafe is beautiful, adorned with frefco paintings of the battle of St. Quintin, by Luca Jordano. The pantheon, or catacomb, where the royal family, beginning with Charles V. are buried, is a fubterranean vault of beautiful marble, highly finifhed, capable of receiving twenty-fix bodies, each in its own recefs. As for the treafures of the church, they are ineftimable. The image of S. Lorenzo alone contains four hundred and fifty pounds of filver, with eighteen pounds of gold ; yet this bears a fmall proportion to the reft. At a little diftance from the convent, the prince of Afturias, and one of his brothers, the infant Don Gabriel, have each a little box, fitted up with exquifite tafte, and hung with the belt, pictures, to which they often retire with their friends. That of the prince is the moll: elegant, and, as far as can be warranted by one fpecimen, forms a happy X , prefage [ 1^3 ] prefage for the arts, whenever he mall mount the throne. The Efcurial, as a refidence, is far from pleafant. Were it low, and fheltered, like Aranjuez, it would be agreeable in fpringj or, were it elevated, hanging to the north, and covered by thick woods, like S. Jlde- fonzo, it might be delightful as a -retreat in fummer j but expofed, as it is, to the full ftroke of the meridian fun, and railed up near to regions covered with eternal mow, without fhelter, and destitute of fhade, it has no local charms at any {esifon of the year. The miniflers, foreign and domeftic, give good dinners, and do every thing they can to make this folitude fupportable - y but, as few ladies can be accommodated here, the arlemblies want that gaiety which is pecu- liar to the fex. The king fpends moil: of his time in mooting. In the middle of the day, after a mort excurfion, he returns to dinner, con- verfes with the foreign miniflers, retires for a few minutes with his confeflbr, and, ge- nerally before three, fometimes much fooner, leaves the palace, and goes to the diilance of twenty or thirty miles before he begins to hunt. When the light fails, he gets, in- to f I2 4 ] to his carnage, and returns. No weather deters him, becaufe he is not afraid of either thunder, lightning, hail, rain, or fnow, but when one cloak is wet, he puts on another; and as for his attendants, he tells them coolly, " Rain breaks no bones." No holi- days detain him from his fport, except two in the paffion-week -, and then, although he is naturally of a mofl placid temper, he is faid to be fo crofs, that no one choofes to come near him. Even when one of his fons was thought to be at the point of death, he went out as ufual, always infilling that he would certainly recover ; and when inform- ed that his fon was dead, he replied, with his accuftomed calmnefs, " Well, then, fince " nothing can be done, we muil make the " beft of it." His ufual attendants are the prince of Afturias, the captain of the guard, hismafterof thehorfe, his groom of the ftole, his phyfician, and his furgeon. All thefe occupy five carriages ; befides which, there is one for medicines, guns, ammunition, dry clothes, &c. Each carriage has fix mules -j and as, upon the road, there are fe- veral relays for them and for the guards, the number required for daily ufe is about two hundred. Their rate of travelling is twelve miles [ ^5 ] miles an hour -, in ccnfequence of which, accidents happen frequently to the men, and to the mules. In hunting, the king does not depend altogether on his dogs : he has commonly about two hundred men employed to beat up the game, and drive it towards him at convenient places, where he and the prince are ready, with fervants attending to charge the guns, and to hand them forwards as fad as they are fired. No game comes amifs to him 5 biit he is peculiarly flattered with the idea of delivering the country from wolves, of which he keeps an exad account j and, when I was at the Efcurial, the number he had mot was eight hundred and eighteen. Whenever one is heard of within a reafon- able diftance, a multitude of people, from fixteen hundred to two thoufand, according to the extent of the mountain, are fent out to watch, furround, and drive it into feme fpot, where the king may have the bell: chance for killing it. To thefe he gives fix reals each ; but if he kills the wolf, the watchmen have double pay. This ex- pence, it mull: be confelled, is needlefs; becaufe a few peafants would often be fuffi- cient, either to deftroy the enemy, or make him t 126 1 turn quit the country ; but where a good fovereign has pleafure in a purfuit, his fub- jecls will be the laffc to think, that he can purchafe it too dearly. It were happy, however, for Spain, were this the whole expence ; -but it certainly bears a fmall pro- portion to the fum total of what the nation lofes by the king's rage for hunting. All round the Jttios, or royal manfions, the waftes are Gf vail: extent. I am informed, that the foreft of the Pardo is thirty leagues in circumference -, and if to this be added, all the uncultivated land near Aranjuez, S. Ildefonfo, and the Efeurial 3 if, moreover* we confider that the deer, being unconfinedj range freely over the intermediate country* how high will be the eftimate ! It is true, the king pays the farmers to the utmoil for the damages they fuffer - 3 but then, the injury fuflained by the community cannot be fo eafily compenfated, becaufe the coun- try, wanting food, is depopulated, and the villages are gone to ruin. I have been told by thofe, who 4 are befc acquainted with the king, that in his youth he had acquired a tafte for letters, but be- ing checked in that purfuit, he had given fcopc t m 3 fcope to the family propenfity, a properi- fity not only now confirmed by inveterate habits, but encouraged in himfelf with a view to avoid entanglements. He is cer- tainly a man of principle, and is univerfally allowed to be one of the moil virtuous men In his dominions ; but this purity of morals he himfelf attributes to his mind being conftantly amufed, and not to his natural conftitution. I prolonged my ftay at the Efcurial-y daiefly for the purpofe of being prefent at the Batida, or royal hunt, of which there are four every year. This was ordered for the 28th of November, previous to the de- parture of the court. On the day appointed, Mr. Lifton had the goodnefs to place me with the Neapo- litan ambaflador, who, as reprefenting one of the family, gave a fumptuous repall upon the occafion ; and in his carriage I pro- ceeded to the fcene of action. It was an extenfive plain, with a rifing ground com- manding it, and, at the diftance of about half a mile from this eminence, rofe a little wood, in which the king, with his three fonsj were hid, attended by their fervants. For t 123 j For many days previous to this, two thou ■ iand men had been difperfed in parties over the whole country to difturb the game, and to drive it towards the common centre, by patroling night and day, and constantly, yet flowlv, drawing nearer to each others Soon after we had occupied our ftation on a rifing ground, we began to fee the deer at a vail diftance bounding over the plain from every quarter, and making towards the fatal fpot. As they approached, we heard, faintly at firft, then more diftin&ly, the found of guns, and faw the confufion of the game, moving quick in all directions, but changing their courfe at every inftant, as if uncertain where to look for fafety. When the fcour- Ing parties came firft in fight, they appeared to be feparated by intervals, and to confine the game merely by their fhouts and by the firing of their arms ; but as they ad- vanced upon the plain, they formed a wall, and as they drew nearer, they ftrengthened this by the doubling cf their ranks, com^ pelling thus the game to pafs in vaft droves before the royal markfmen. Then began the carnage ; and for more than a quarter of an hour the firing was incefiant. Some cf the [ I2 9 ] the deer, who had either more difcernment than the reft, or a better memory ; who were actuated by flronger fears, or, per ? haps, by more exalted courage, abfolutely refuied to proceed, when they approached the ambufcade ; and, making a quick turn, notwithflanding the fhouts, the motions, and the firing of the guards, they leaped clean over their redoubled ranks, and efca 7 ped into the woods. When the firing ceafed, the carnages all advanced towards the wood, and the com- pany alighted to pay their compliments, and to view the game. We found part of it fpread in two rows upon the field of bat- tle, and the king, with his fons> furveying it. The game- keepers were returning. loaded with fuch as had been mortally wounded, but had yet efcaped to a confiderable (dis- tance ; and, as faft as they arrived, they de- pofited the fpoil at the fovereign's feet. Having the curiofity to count the numbers, I found one hundred and forty-five deer, with one wild boar. Whilfb thus engaged, I heard a murmer, and faw every one in motion. Directing my attention to the fpot Voi. IL K to [ 13° J to which all were prerTing, I faw at a dis- tance a little company coming with a boar tied neck and heels together, and flung \mon a pole. As they approached; the monarch and his ions, arming themfelves afrem, drew up in a line, and Standing at a convenient diftance, the burthen was depofited; the' cords, one after another, were cut ; and the poor crippled animal was aflaying to move, when a well directed volley freed him from his fears. The expence of that day's fport was reckoned at three hundred thoufand reals, or, in Sterling, three thoufand pounds. In the evening, the game, as ufual, was all depofited in the room where the king took his fupper, and there the family ambafla- dors attended to pay their compliments. By family ambafladors are understood thofe of Naples, Portugal, and France, who having more free accefs, and being expected to pay more minute attention, think it incumbent upon them to exprefs their interest in every thing, which gives him pleafure, and not only congratulate him upon thefe great oc- caiions, but every night, whilft he is at fupper, I 131 ] V fupper, make inquiries, and afterwards inform their friends, what the king has killed. Mr. Lifton, defirous of quitting the Efcurial previous to the departure of the court, ordered a Cocbe de C oiler as to be ready the day after the Batida. This pre- caution is taken by the foreign minifters to fecure mules, becaufe, when the court is in motion, no lefs than twenty thoufand be- ing required for their ufe, the whole coun- try is laid under an arreft, and neither horfe nor mule can be obtained for any other purpofe* In this little journey I was exceedingly diverted and furprifed with the docility of the mules and the agility of their drivers. I had travelled all the way from Barcelona to Madrid in a Cache de Colleras, with fe- ven mules, and both at that time, and on fubfequent occafions, had been {truck with the quicknefs of understanding in the mule, and of motion in the driver j but till this expedition, I had no idea to what extent it might be carried. The two coachmen lit upon the box, and, of the fix mules, none but the two neareft have reins to guide K 2 them* [ i3 2 1 them y the four leaders being perfectly at liberty, and governed only by the voice. Thus harneffed, they go upon the gallop the whole way, and when they come to any fhort turning, whether to the right or to the left, they inftantly obey the word, and move all together, bending to it like a fpring. As all muft undergo tuition, and require frequently fome correction ; mould any one refufe the collar, or not keep up exa&ly with the reft, whether it be, for ex- ample, Coronela or Capitanaj the name pro- nounced with a degree of vehemence, rapidly in the three hrft fyllables and flowly in. the laft, being fufficient to awaken atten- tion, and to fecure obedience, the ears, are railed, and the mule inftantly exerts her ftrength. But, mould there be any failure in obedience, one of the men fprings fu- rious from the box, quickly overtakes the offending mule, and thrafhes her without mercy ; then, in the twinkling of an eye, leaps upon the box again, and calmly finifhes the tale he had been telling his companion. In this journey I thought I had learnt the names of all the mules, yet .one, which frequently occurred, created fome [ 133 1 fome confuiion, becaufe I could not find, to which individual it belonged, nor could I diflinclly make out the name itfelf. It founded like Cagliojira, and led me to ima- p-ine that the animal was fo named after the famous impoftor Caglioflro, only fuiting- the termination to the fex, becaufe the mules in harnefs are ufually females. In a fubfe- quent journey the whole difficulty vanished, and my high eftimation of the mule, in point of fagacity, was confirmed. The word in queftion, when diftindly fpoken, was aquella otra-, that is,^^ other alfo; and then fuppofing Coronela and Capitana to be pairs, if the coachman had been calling to the former by name, aquella otra became applicable to the latter, and was equally efficacious as the fmartefl ftroke of a long whip ; but if he had been chiding Capi- tana, in that cafe, aquella otra acted a*s a ftimulus to Coronela, and produced in her the moft prompt obedience. We did not leave the Efcurial till four in the afternoon, and at half after feven ar- rived at the duke of Berwick's, where we had been engaged to fpend the evening, having travelled feven leagues in about three hours and an half. K3 MADRID. ' ' * MADRID. EING thus returned to the capital of Spain, where I fpent the fubfequent winter, it may not be improper to give fome idea of the life a flranger leads here, with a few obfervations on the manners of the age. Having been once introduced at court, you are at liberty to go as often as you pleafe. I availed myfelf frequently of this privilege, both for the fake of viewing the paintings at my leifure, and for converfation, becaufe at court is the general rendezvous, where men of diftincuon aflemble every morning to pay their compliments to the feveral branches of the royal family, whilft they are at dinner, and to talk of what is palling in the world. When the king gets into his coach, to go ©ut, as yfual, to his favourite amufement, the [ *3$ 1 the company retires ; and, as the corps di- plomatique is here remarkable for hoipita- lity, a perfon well recommended is never at a lofs for the moft genteel fcciety at all hours of the day. Gratitude requires that I fhould exprefs my obligations, in this place, to thofe, not only of the foreign mi- niflers, but others, who honoured me with their friendfhip and protection. I fhall therefore take the liberty of defcribing briefly the kind of life I led whilft I was near the court. Count Florida Blanca muft certainly claim the firff. place in my remembrance ; for although at Madrid he gave no enter- tainments, yet in the fitios he had al- ways the goodnefs to admit me into the number of his guefls, when he gave his weekly dinners. From our own minifter I every where experienced, not merely that general protection, which he gives to all, and thofe minute attentions, for which he is univerfally admired, but the kindnefs, hofpitality, and friendfTiip of a brother. His houfe was at all times open to me, and when he gave a dinner to his friends, I ne- ver was forgotten. K4 My [ I3& ] My invitation to the dukede laVauguion J s was both general and fpecial. Here the din- ners were magnificent, the company nume- rous, and the converfation interefting - t and lice I dined more frequently, than at any other table in Madrid, attracted, however, neither by the magnificence of the enter- tainment, nor by the company which reforted to the houfe, fo much as by the eafe and elegance of the duke and dutchefs, and the lovely fimplicity of their children. With the American, Ruffian, and Pruf- fian miniilers, I felt perfectly at home -, and not much lefs fo with thofe of Genoa and Venice. The other foreign miniilers often honoured me with invitations, and I was always happy in accepting them. Whenever I wifhed to cultivate the fci- ences, or to converfe with men of letters, I frequented the more humble, but not lefs hofpitable, tables of fome native Spaniards, where I never failed to meet with a kind reception. With Izquierdo and Angulo, I increafed my knowledge in mineralogy; and on whatever fubject I was defirous of gaining information, I was fure to meet with fatisfa&ion, either from them or from their [ 137 1 their friends. Ortega has been already men-'- tioned as a botaniit. -, D. Fr°. Bayer wilL always be remembered as a polite fcholar; and D. Juan Bautifta Munoz will be cele-. brated as an hiftorian, whenever he mall favour the public with his work on the conquer! of America. Don Jofeph Clavijo deferves the highefr. commendation, as a faithful and elegant tranilator, and as a man of general information. Beiides thefe, I met with two brothers Fernandez, who have diftinguifhed themfelves in chemifhy, and the Abbe Guevara, who excels in his knowledge of Spanifh hiflory, and political oeconomy. With all thefe gentlemen I was upon a moft friendly footing. I dined frequently with the marquis Im- periali, a grandee of Spain, moil defervedly admired for the goodnefs of his heart, and the foftnefs of his manners; and once I had the honour to dine with the marquis de Ovieco, who is likewife a grandee. This gentleman is pointed out as an ex- ample of an old Spaniard; and, if from one individual we might venture to form a ge- neral idea of a community, the politenefs, , . probity, [ '33 I probity, and true dignity, conlpicuous in his whole deportment, muft fill us with the highest reverence and eftecm for the Spa- nifh nation. Like the French, the Spaniards drink their wine at dinner ; but as foon as they have finifhed their defert, and taken coffee, they retire to their couch. When they rife from the fiefla, they get into their carriages to parade up and down the parado, never going fatter than a walk. As they move flowly on in one direction, they look into the coaches, which are re- turning in the other, and bow to their ac- quaintance every time they pafs. On fome high days I have counted four hundred coaches, and, on fuch occasions, it requires more than two hours to proceed one mile. At the clofe of day, people fay the ufual prayer j then wifh each other a good even- ing, and begin retiring to their houfes, where they take their refrefco of chocolate, with bifcuits and a glafs of water. When you are properly introduced into a Spanifh family, you are told at parting, " Now, Sir, you are mailer of this houfe j" * but [ l 29 ] but the extent of the grant mufl be judged of by your own natural iagacity j becaufe, iuch is the politenefs of a Spaniard, that he makes ufe of this expreffion, when nothing more is meant than that you are at liberty to call upon him ; accordingly you fee many retire before each meal, or drop in after it : but when it is taken in its full extent, the grant means dinner, refrefco, fupper, any or all, whenever it may fuit you to partake of them. Moil families, efpecially the great, have their tertulla, or evening fociety for cards and converfation, after which, they, who are upon a footing of intimacy, flay and partake of a little fupper. At thefe evening meetings you fee the fame faces from day to day. The fociety I chiefly frequented was at the dutchefs of Berwick's -, but I went often to the dutchefs de la Vauguion's, fome- tinies to the countefs del Carpios, and too feldom I vifited count Campomanes. Now and then, with a view to get an infight into the nature of fociety, I wandered away to other families, but not meeting any one, with whom I had been previoufly acquaint- ed, befides the lady of the family, I was foon weary, [ i 4 o ] weary, and could feldom prevail upon my- fe]f to prolong my flay. Without any difparagement to the reft, I may venture to fay, that the fociety at the dutchefs of Berwick's was the molt pleaf- ing. It was frequented by the foreign mi- nifters, and, not only were the dutchefs and her fifler, the princefs of Stolberg, moft engaging in their manners, but the eafe and freedom, which every one enjoyed, made the time pafs delightfully. The dutchefs herfelf, and three of her friends, occupied a ■whirl: table, fome feparated themfelves for converfation, and the princefs commonly, for a part of the evening, amufed herfelf with drawing, under the infpection and tuition of the Pruffian minifler, who, for tafte and execution, is one of the firft maf- ters in that line. Others were engaged at , the piana forte. For my part, I commonly took up my pencil, and profited by the lef- ibns given to the princefs. At eleven o'clock we fat down to an elegant fupper, and about one in the morning I retired, having nearly two miles to walk. The duke generally came home to fupper, but he [ w J he fcldom fat long before he retired to. his bed. At the dutchefs de la Vauguion's the fo- ciety was chiefly French. The amufements were cards, tricktrac, and chefs, concluding with a flipper. At the countefs del Carpio's all were Spaniards, excepting one Italian, and the amufement was fome game at cards. The evening clofed with a light fupper. The count was commonly at home before ten, and, except when at the play-houfe, he fpent his evenings in his family. He is a feniible man, and well informed ; and the countefs mult give life to every fociety, where (lie is found. She is far from hand- fome; yet, from the fprightlinefs of her wit, and the foftnefs of her manners, flie is highly interesting, and the more fo from her delicacy of constitution, and the weak- nefs of her health. Count Campomanes gives no fuppers, and cards are feldom (een ; but his conver- fation fills up the time, and renders all other fpecies of amufement needlefs. The fo- ciety is chiefly from the Aiturias,. where he was born. Befide Befide thefe quiet tertullas, all through ihe winter the dutchefles of Berwick and Vauguion gave balls once a week, and the counteffes of Cogulludo and Penafiel gave concerts and balls, attended with fplendid fide-boards of ices, cakes, and jellies. After the ball, every one retired to fupper with his own fociety. When you pay a vifit to a lady, (for, wherever there is a lady in the family, the vifit is to her) you neither knock at the door, nor afk any questions of the porter, but go ftraight forwards to the room where fhe ufually receives her company, and there you feldom fail to find her, morning, noon, and night ; in winter, fitting near the bra- fier, furrounded by her friends, unlefs when fhe is gone out to mafs. The friends are moftly gentlemen, becaufe ladies feldom vi- fit in a familiar way; and, of the gentlemen thus affembled, one is commonly the Cor~ tcjo ; I fay commonly, becaufe it is not uni- verfally the cafe. During the whole of my refidence in Spain, I never heard of jealoufy in a hufband, nor could I ever learn, for certain, that fuch a thing exifted ; yet, in the conduct of many ladies, whether it proceeds t H3 1 proceeds from the remains of delicacy, from a fenfe of propriety, or from fear, you may evidently fee caution, circumfpec- tion, and referve, when their hufbands are in fight. Some have addrefs enough to keep the cortejo in concealment ; and this, in Spain, is attended with no great difficulty, becaufe, when the ladies go to mafs, they are fo difguifed, as not to be eafily diftinguifhed. Their drefs upon that occaiion is peculiar to the country. They all put on the bafquina, or black lilk petti- coat, and the mantilla, which ferves the double purpofe of a cloak and veil, fo as completely, if required, to hide the face. Thus difguifed, they are at perfect liberty tb go where they pleafe. But mould they be attended by a fervant, he is to be gained, and therefore he becomes little or no reftraint, Befides this, every part of the houfe is fo ac- ceffible by day, and the hufband is fo com- pletely nobody at home, fo feldom vifible, or, if vifible, fo perfectly a ftranger to thofe, who vifit in his family, that the lover may eafily efcape unnoticed. This, however, will not always fatisfy the Spanifh ladies, who, being quick of fenfibility, and remark- able [ x 44 ] able for ftrong attachment, are miferable, when their cortejo is out of fight. He muft be pre fen t every moment in the day, whether in private or public, in health ©r ficknefs, and mull be every where in- vited to attend them. There have been recent examples of women, even of high fafliion, who have ihut themfelves up for months, during the abfence of their corte- josi and this, not merely from difguft, but to avoid giving them offence. If the lady is at home, he is at her fide ; when ihe walks out, me leans upon his arm; when fhe- takes her feat at an aflembly, an empty chair is always left for him -, and if me joins in the country dances, it is commonly with him. As every lady dances two minuets at a ball, the nrfi is with her cortejo, the fecond with a ftranger; with the former, if ihe has, any vivacity, ihe makes it vifible, and if me can move with grace, it then appears ; but with the latter ihe evidently mews, not in- difference, but difguft ; and feem's to look upon her partner with difdain. As foon as any lady marries, me is teafed by numerous competitors for this diftin- guifhed favour, till fhe is fixed in her choice; when t HS ) when the unfuccefsful candidates either re- tire, or fubmit to become, in future, what may be called cortejos of the brafier, with- out any pretenfions beyond that of fitting round the embers to warm themfelves m winter. It is reckoned difgraceful to be fickle ; yet innumerable inftances are feen of ladies who often change their lovers. In this there is a natural progrefs ; for it cannot be imagined, that women of fuperior under- standings, early in life diftinguifhed for de- licacy of fentiment, for prudence, and for the elevation of their minds, mould haftily arrive at the extreme, where paffion tri- umphs, and where all regard to decency is loft. As for others, they foon finifh the ca- reer. It is, however, humiliating to fee fome who appear to have been deligned by nature to command the reverence of mankind, at laft degraded, and funk fo low in the opi- nion of the world, as to be never mentioned but with contempt. Thefe have changed fo often, and have been fo unfaithful to every engagement, that, univerfally defpifed, they end with having no cortejo. Vol. II. L I have t 146 ] I have obferved, that jealoufy is feldom, if ever, to be difcovered in a hufband ; but this cannot be faid in favour of the new connection, becaufe both parties are tor- mented by fufpicion. This, it mull be confeffed, is natural ; for, as both are con- fcious that there is no other bond between them, but the precarious tie of mutual affec- tion, each mufl tremble at the approach of any one, who might interrupt their union. Hence they are conflantly engaged in watch- ing each other's looks, and for want of con- fidence, renounce, in a great meafure, the charms of focial intercourfe. Even in pub- lic, they feem to think themfelves alone, ab- stracted and abforbed, attentive only to each other. He mufl not take notice of any other lady; and if any gentleman would converfe with her ; in a few minutes fhe appears confufed and filled with fear, that fhe may have given offence. In all proba- bility fhe has ; and mould fhe be the firfl dutchefs in the kingdom, and he only a non- commiffioned officer in the army, fhe may be treated with perfonal indignity ; and we have heard of one who was dragged by the 9 hair [ '47 ] hair about the room. But if, inftead of giving, me mould happen to have taken the offence, even the more delicate will fly like a tygrefs at his eyes, and beat him in the face till he is black and blue. It fometimes happens, that a lady becomes weary of her firft choice, her fancy has fixed upon fome new object, and me wi/hes to change - 3 but the former, whofe vanity is flattered by the connection, is not willing to diflblve it. In lower life, this moment gives occafion to many of thofe afTaiTlnations, which abound in Spain ; but, in the higher claries, among whom the dagger is profcribed, the firft pofTeflbr, if a man of fpirit, maintains pof- feffion, and the lady dares not difcard him, left an equal combat mould prove fatal to the man of her affections. In this conteft the hufband is out of fight, and tells for nothing. In a catholic country, with fuch depra- vity of morals, it may be naturally inquired, what becomes of confeience, and where is difcipline ? It is well known, that all are under obligation to confers, at leaft once a year, before they receive the eucharift. Every one is at liberty to choofe his con- L 2 feffor [ i+8 ] feffor and prieft ; but before he leaves the altar, he takes a certificate that he has been there, and this he delivers to the curate of his own parifh, under pain of excommuni- cation, mould he fail to do fo. When, therefore, a married woman appears, year after year, before her confeffor, to acknow- ledge that Hie has been, and ftill continues to be, living in adultery, how can he grant her abfolution, or how can he be moderate in the penance he enjoins. Without pe- nance, and unlefs the prieft is fatisfied that there is contrition, with full purpofe of a- mendment, there can be no abfolution -, without abfolution, no participation of the eucharift -, and, in the neglect of this, ex- communication follows. Yet, from the univerfal prevalence of this offence, we may be certain, that there mull be fome way of evading the rigour of the law. Nothing is more eafy. As for the penance, it is im- pofed by thofe, who can have companion on the frailties of mankind, and is therefore fcarcely worthy to be mentioned. In many instances, it is ridiculous. Were any con- feffor fevere, he would have few at his con- feiiional. The abfolution is commonly a more [ 149 1 more ferious bufinefs ; becaufe the penitent mufl not only teftify contrition, but mufl give fome token of amendment, by abftain- ing, at leaft for a feafon, from the commif- fion of the crime, which is the fubj eft- matter of confeffion. The firft abfolution. may be eafily obtained ; but when the of- fender comes, year after year, with the fame confeffion, if he will obtain abfolution, he mufl change his confeffor ; and this practice is not only difgraceful, but fometimes inef- fectual. Here, then, it is needful to adopt fome new expedient. Two naturally pre- fent themfelves : for, either fome prieir, deftitute of principle, may be found, who, for certain confiderations, will furnifh bil- lets ; or elfe, which is a prevailing practice at Madrid, the common proftitutes, confef- fing and receiving the holy facrament in many churches, and collecting a multitude of billets, either fell, or give them to their friends. I have certificates before me. As thefe carry neither name nor fignature, they are eafily transferred. They are fimply thus : Comulgo en la Iglefia parroquial de San Mar~ tin de Madrid* Ano de mil fete cientos ochenta * y feis. L 3 Tbe [ 15° ] The principal cortejos in the great cities are the canons of the cathedrals ; but where the military refide, they take their choice, and leave the refufe for the church. In the country villages, the monks bear rule ; at leaft within their limits, and even in the cities, they fet up their pretentions. As for the parochial clergy, one thing is certain, that many of them have, families, and all are involved in the common cenfure. Even in the Afturias, my friend, the good biihop. auxiliary of Oviedo, a man of high prin- ciple, yet of great humanity, fevere only to himfelf, but companionate to others, made it a rule, that none of his curates mould have children in their families. This facri- fice, at leaf!:, he in fitted they mould make to decency. Beyond this he did not think it right to be too rigid in his enquiries. In fhort, during my refidence in Spain, I never found one perfon inclined to vindicate the curates from the common charge 3 but, at the fame time, all, with united voices, bore testimony to the fuperior virtue of the bi- fhops. Indeed, thefe venerable men, from all that I could hear, and from what I faw in the near approach, to w r hich they graci- ouily [ '5i ] oufly admitted me, for purity, for piety, for zeal, can never be fufficiently admired; but too few of the clergy, either fecular or re- gular, till they begin to look towards the mitre, feem to think it neceffary, that they fhould imitate thefe bright examples, or afpire after fuch high perfections. This univerfal depravity of morals, if I am not much miftaken, may be traced up to the celibacy of the clergy. It is true, the example of the court, lince the accef- fion of the prefent monarch, has given pre- valence to practices which were before re- trained, and made that honourable, which had been attended with difgrace ; but the effect mud always, in a meafure, have been coeval with its caufe. Nay, mould we be inclined to blame, in the nrft inftance, the Italians, who are faid to have brought this practice into Spain, we mould be obliged at laft to trace it up to this miftaken prin- ciple, that conjugal affec~iion is inconjijient with the due difcharge of the minijlerial functions. In converfing freely with the clergy on this fubject, I never met any one, befides the archbiihop of Toledo, who at- tempted to vindicate this principle -, and L 4 where- I *5* ] wherever I was, I had no difficulty in de- claring war againffc it, becaufe they dp not confider it as an article of faith. The prin- ciple is abfurd -, yet upon it is Founded the celibacy of the clergy, and from that, in my opinion, is derived the corruption of their morals. It has been common for proteftants, who travel in a catholic coun- try, to inveigh againft the clergy, and to laugh at the people, as prieft- ridden : fuch abufe is exceedingly illiberal. The priefts themfelves are to be pitied ; but the law which binds them, the cruel law which re- quires, that they mould offer violence to nature, or, more properly, the power which can abrogate that law, mould bear the blame. The purpofe of the law is however frus- trated 3 for nature is like a rapid river, which, checked in its progrefs, fcorns re- flramt, and, when diverted from its proper courfe, either overflows the country, or forms new channels for itfelf. What then is gained ? The parochial clergy, and thefe are the only clergy who mould be fuffered in a ftate, have their connections and their children, but not as they ought, in the moil [ *53 1 moft honourable way. They are difgraced in the eyes of the people, who are taught by their example to live in the violation of the laws -, and their children, for want of a proper education, are fitted only for the vileft employments in the community. How different is the picture, where mar- riage is allowed. The minifter is like the father of his parim, and his wife performs the office of a mother ; both fet an example of virtue, and in every village teach the peafants how to value their domeftic com- fort. In the ftreet, their children, com- monly a numerous offspring, are diftin- guifhed by their look of health, by their cleanlinefs, and by the decency of their conduct; and, when fent out into the world, they form the moft valuable mem-* bers of fociety. Should the Spanifh government refolve to fet the clergy free ; more ample provision muft be made for their maintenance, be- caufe at prefent it is fcarcely fufficient for their own fupport ; and this might be eafily accomplished out of the vaft reve- nues of the bimops, or by the fupprefuon of fome ufelefs convents. The [ i54 3 . The play-houfes in Madrid are not much frequented : the genius of the people does not affimilate with this fort of amufement. This will evidently appear by the receipts at the two theatres ; for, taking the average between them in December, they each pro- duce fifty pounds a night, but fome nights lefs than twenty pounds j and, even in the Chriftmas week, not more than feventy-fix. They have lately introduced the opera, but with little profpect of fuccefs j becaufe moft of the genteel people keep to their own focieties, except when they attend the balls. Few people here difcover any love for the fciences. The cabinet of natural hif- tory is open to all the world, but it is not frequented j and although D. Ant°. Fern. Solano, the royal profeffor of experimental philofophy, in point of clearnefs, elegance, and preciiion, may be reckoned among the firft in Europe, and delivers his lectures gratis, yet nobody attends him. Books are little read ■> all who are not engaged in bu- linefs, are occupied in their attendance on the ladies, with whom nothing of this kind is heard of. In I iss ] In confcquence of proper introductions, I had an opportunity of feeing moft of the principal manfions in Madrid. The firft, without exception, in point of magnifi- cence, is the duke of Alba's. The principal front is to the fouth, and is two hundred feet in length, with eighty-five windows. The eaftern and weitern fronts will be fix hundred feet when finifhed ; yet in this vaft pile there is not one room fuitable to the rank and fortune of its lord. The uo- j. per ftories will be occupied by four hun- dred bed-chambers, which are fcarcely fuf- ficient for the family, confidering that all the fuperannuated fervants, with their wives and children, are to be lodged and penfioned there. The duke informed me, that he paid one hundred thoufand reals, that is, one thoufand pounds, a month, in wages only at Madrid. For commodioufnefs and elegance, no houfe in Madrid is equal to the duke of Berwick's. Built on a declivity, with the principal front towards the weft, it occu- pies, like other Spaniih houfjs, the four fides of a fquare, yet is perfectly mo- dern, both in flyle and furniture. You en- ter ■ [ 156 ] ter a fpacious hall, then, afcending a wide ftaircafe, you find a fuit of magnificent apartments, communicating all round, and, upon the fame level with the garden to the fouth and to the eaft. From this circum- flance, all the ground floor is kept exceed- ingly cool for a fummer's refidence, and the principal apartments are warm and comfortable in winter. Such an habita- tion would be ill fiiited for the accommo- dation of numerous domeftics, with their widows and their children, defcending by tradition from his anceflors; and therefore the duke, very wifely, is fatisfied with giv- ing them fmall penfions, and leaves them to provide a lodging for themfelves. He was fo obliging as to let me fee his accomptant's offices, in which he has in- troduced a fyftem of ceconomy little known in Spain. They ccnfifc, as ufual, of four departments, but then in thefe he has only one accomptant general, with three clerks ; one principal fecretary, with three under him ; one treafurer, and one keeper of ar- chives, with an afliftant. On all his eftates he has fimilar eftablifhments, but upon a fmaller fcale. His whole property pro- duces, t 157 ] duces, grofs, one million eight hundred and eighty -eight thoufand fix hundred and eighty - three reals, and from this deducting three hundred and forty-one thoufand nine hundred and eight, for the charge of ma- nagement, it netts one million five hundred and forty-fix thoufand feven hundred and feventy-five reals, or £.15,467 Sterling. The late duke of Arcos had more than three hundred people in his eftablimment at Madrid. The marquis of Penafiel, who is married to the young dutchefs of Bene- vente, and is at once duke of Oiiuna, of Arcos, of Vejar, of Candia, &c. &c. with an income of about fifty thoufand pounds fterling, employed, when I was at Madrid, twenty - nine accomptants, including his two fecretaries, and I understand that he has fince increafed their number; befides thefe, he has an advocate, and a family phyfician, for whom, with his principal fecretary and his treafurer, he keeps four carriages. The duke of Medina Coeli has thirty ac- comptants in Madrid, befides vaft eflablim- ments on his eftates, more efpecially in Catalonia, moft of which belongs to him, and [ >'5« 1 and in the province of Andaluiia, where he has extenfive property. His fon, the mar- quis de Cogoiludo, who has a feparate eftabliihment, informed me, that he him- felf paid, only at Madrid, thirty thoufand reals a month, or near four thoufand pounds a year in ftipends to his fer- vants. It is difficult to eftimate what, with good management, would be the revenue of thefe great lords. Such a property as the duke of Alba's, producing under admi- niftration eighty thoufand pounds a yearj what would it not yield, if let out to fub- flantial farmers ? If, whilft they plough, and fow, and reap, and thrafh, and fell, and eat, and drink, upon the duke's ac- count, he receives fuch an income ; what would it be if every inch of land were made productive, and if that produce were expended with ceconomy ? With fuch vaft porTeffions, well managed, he might live in fplendor little inferior to the greatefl fove- reigns of Europe. But, inftead of this, de- voured by their fervants, they are mofl of them in debt ; and, under the feeling of poverty, live exceedingly retired, fcarcely venturing • X 159 J venturing at any time to give a dinner to their friends. In many of their houfes you find good pictures, collected by their anceftors ; but, as for the prefent generation, they feem to have little tafte for the polite arts : their time and attention appear to be loft in tri- fles. Among the houfes where the works of the befl maflers are to be feen, the prin- cipal are thofe of Alba, Medina Coeli, San- tiago, Infantado, and Santeflevan. In the former is a very numerous and ineftimable collection; and, among them, the portrait of the prefent dukt, by Mengs ; and the great duke of Alba, by Titian ; a Venus, by Velazquez j a Holy Family, by Raphael ; and the famous School of Love, by Correg- gio. In this beautiful picture, Venus and Mercury are teaching Cupid to read : it was fold in London, with other valuable pictures of Charles I. All thefe pictures were, when I faw them, crowded in the old manfion of the family, and therefore appeared to dif- advantage ; but, whenever they fhall be cleaned and properly difpofed, this will be evidently a moft capital collection. All the other collections are in the highefl preser- vation, [ i6o ] vation, except thofe of the late duke of San* teflevan, now the property of his i 7/, the marquis of Cogolludo, which, although ineftimable, as being the works of the moil ancient artifts, are wholly neglected, and mffered to decay. The marquis was fo polite as to attend me and the F ruffian mi- nifter to fee them, and witnciTcd our lamen- tations over them. During my winter's reildence at Madrid* I endeavoured to get fome infight into the revenue, and, I truft, it will be found that my labour was not in vain : yet, after all my enquiries, I am inclined to think, that till fome great financier, like Mr. Necker, ihall arife in Spain, the confufion which reigns at prefent will continue to prevail in this department of the flate. Whilfl the taxes were collected by farm- ers general, it was eafy to know the rent they paid ; but now that all is in admini- ftration, to come exactly at the produce and expenditure will be attended with fome difficulty. Were the whole peninfula on the fame footing, were all punctual in their payments, and were the difburfements from one common treafury, this refearch would be [ 16, ] be expedited ; but, as not one of thefe cir- cumstances exifls, we mud take the mate- rials as we find them, and do the beff, we can. I mail endeavour to give fome idea both of the revenue and its expenditure, founded on authentic documents, procured from the foreign minifters, and compared with an official paper, with which I was favoured from the treafury. But firfr, it will be neceffary to point out the various articles which yield revenue, and to explain the terms relating to finance, briefly pre- miflng fuch an hillorical relation as can be collected from Spanifh writers on the fub- jecT:. The principal refources of the crown for fupporting its dignity, were anciently found in the demefnes of the fovereign ; but when, during a minority, or a difputed fucceflion, thefe had been plundered by the great no- bility, he was obliged to folicit grants from the national aflemblies. Thus it was with Alonzo II. who, after he had compelled fome of his barons to reffcore the lands taken from himfelf and from his immediate predecelfor during their infancy, finding thefe unequal to his wants, in the year Vol. II. M 1342, t It* ] 1342, he obtained from the cortes, then afTembled at Burgos, an a/cava/a, or tax upon all property transferred, to defray his expences at the liege of Algeciras. Many cities had given him a fifth on the value of all commodities difpofed of by fale or bar- ter, but when granted by the ftates, the tax was fixed at ten per cent, and made uni- verfal over Caftille. Whilft Peter, fur- named, but perhaps improperly, the Cruel, driven from his kingdom, was a fugitive in France, Henry, his natural brother, having been proclaimed king (A. D. 1 361.) the cortes granted the alcavala, without any limitation with refpect to time, as a mark of their flrong attachment to the fovereign of their choice. But neither was this grant, nor the aid of France, fufricient to eftablifh the ufurper on the throne ; for Peter, pow- erfully fupported by Edward, prince of Wales, at the head of thirty thoufand men, gave him battle, and compelled him to re- tire. When Peter had thus regained his fccptre, and began to meditate revengs againft the pope, Urban V. who had ex-t communicated him ; his holinefs readily found means to appeafe the indignation 4 of [ i6 3 ] of the offended monarch, by granting him the royal thirds, or two-ninths of all the tythes collected in Caftille, under pre- tence of a croifade. Peter took the money, and increafed his army, but not with the leaft intention of fixengthening himfelf again ft the infidels. He had more formi- dable enemies at home, and to them he bent his whole attention ; but in vain, for the prince of Wales having retired in dif- guft, his father, Edward III. was not in- clined to continue his fupport. When, therefore, Henry appeared in the field once more, attended by moft of the principal nobility, Peter fell. This was in the year 1369. At the commencement of the fucceed- ing century, Henry III. being obliged to affume the reigns of government, when he was aged fourteen, in order to prevent a civil war; on his acceflion to the throne he found his treafury exhaufted, and whilft his great barons were rioting over the fpoils, which they had feized during his minority, he himfelf was reduced to the laft extre- mity of want. It is related of him, that returning one day from hunting, and alking M 2 for [ i6 4 ] for fomething to eat, his fteward told him plainly, that he had neither money nor credit to procure a joint of meat; " Then," faid he, " take my cloak, and pawn it." He was not, however, fatisfied with vent- ing his indignation in empty words ; but, roufed by hunger, he obliged his nobles to reftore the caftles, and to renounce the pen- fions, which the regent had been compelled to grant them. A. D. 1 500, when the wealth of America began to flow into Spain, the internal reve- nue of the country ceafed to be an object of attention, and the miniflers of finance looked chiefly to the mines of Peru and Mexico for their fupplies. But before one century had elapfed, the phantom vanifhed : the treafury, exhaufted by inceffant wars, had contracted a load of debt, fuch as the country was unable to fupport ; and, to pay the expences of the invincible armada, new taxes were invented, under the denomina- tion of Millones, fo called, becaufe the grant was for eight millions of ducats. ^£.878,906. 5^) To this the cortes, fome years after, added twenty-four millions, to be collected in fix years ; of which, four and an half was [ i6s ] was impofed on fait, the other nineteen and an half on wine, oil, vinegar, and butcher's meat. The country was not in a condition to be taxed. Rich in mines, but poor in mo- ney j exhaufted by continued wars in Italy, in Flanders, and by emigrations to Ame- rica; wanting, at the fame time, every en- couragement to induftxy at home ; wretch- ednefs fo univerfally prevailed, that Dr. Moncada, in the year 1660, and Oforio, in 1686, reckoned more than three millions in Spain, who wore no fhirts, becaufe they could not afford to purchafe linen. Money was at that period lent commonly for twenty, and even thirty, per cent. -, and if remitted to Italy or Flanders, the difcount was from fourteen to fifty per cent, being the difference of value between njellon or copper, in which the taxes were received, and gold or filver, in which remittances were made -, and this heavy difcount was independent of the exchange, which, as may be readily conceived, was very high. (Camp. E. P. Apend. 4. p. 274.) Such was the ftate of their finance in the reign e>f Philip IV. His fucceffor, Charles II. M 3 who [ i66 ] who died at the end of the feventeenth cen- tury, was once reduced to fuch diftrefs, that, as appears, by a letter to be feen in his own hand writing, he folicited money from the council of Caitille to pay the ex- pences of his removal with his court to Aranjuez, where he was going for h s health. The council anfwered, that, if upon examination, there was no other way to reftore his heajth, they would grant the money. We may readily imagine that the re- ceipts at the treafury were inConfiderable, when we cart, our eye upon their accounts, and, fo late as 17 14, fee them wholly kept in maravedis, of which four are nearly equal to a farthing. At the beginning of the prefent century, Philip V. fucceeding to the crown of Spain, found only a revenue of ten million livres, or £.416,666, and no money in the trea- fury; but, in the fuperior abilities of the prefident Orry, he had inexhauftible re- fources. This great man, who accompa- nied the young prince from France, and became his minifter, raifed the revenue nearly to two millions fterling -, and, at the end [ 167 1 end of an expenfive war, left the treafury not only free from debt, but with consider- able fums in bank. In the year 171 4 he retired. Previous to this period, the taxes were farmed, and the people were grievouily op- preffed, not merely by the farmers general and by their judges, but by others who rented under them. The poor peafants were robbed and plundered with impunity, their cottages were fold, and they were left to perim, or when, unable to iatisfy thefe harpies, they took refuge in a convent, their neighbours were obliged to make up the deficiency. To remedy thefe abufes, the new monarch thought it expedient to reunite many of the leffer farms ; and, to prevent the vexation of his fubjects, he rer commended moderation to the farmers. His recommendation remained without ef- fect. The farmers continued to nominate and to pay the judges, the judges continued to ©pprefs the people, and the people con- tinued to utter their complaints. When, however, the new minifter who fucceeded Orry reflected that, whilfr. the taxes conti- nued to be farmed, the people muft. be M 4 fubjeel [ .68 ] fubject to oppreffion, at his entrance into office, in the year 17 14, he put the whole revenue in adminiftration -, but, at the end of two years, he reluctantly confented to renew the farms. After this fhort refpite, when the galling yoke was laid upon their necks again, and the farmers were once more armed with power to opprefs them, the people became impatient, and their clamours reached the throne ; yet to little purpofe for a feafon, becaufe the neceffities of the itate were pleaded, and whilfl Philip lived, the evil complained of was only palliated, but not removed. A. D. 1746, on the acceffion of Ferdi- nand VI. D. Martin de Loynaz undertook to plead with him the caufe of a much in- jured people, as D. Michael de Zavala had done with his father Philip, but with more effect ; for his minifter, the marquis de la Enfenada, wholly abolifhed the farms ; and from that period they have never been re- ftored. In confeouence of this new regu- lation, the magiilrates of all the cities and diftriSo J private property ; but, in the year r 34$, they were taken by Alonfo II j and, ire 1564, Philip II. feized them as a part of his demefne. The chief of them are in Andalufia, Valencia, Catalonia, and Majorca. The falt-works of Mata, in the kingdom of Valencia, would eafily furnifh one million and an half fanegas, of about one hundred pounds weight, which, could they find a market, would, at twenty-two reals the fa- nega, make three hundred and thirty thou- land pounds fterling per annum -, but, by raifing the price, they have lelTened the demand : lb that the whole amount of the kingdom is only about two thirds of what one work alone might furnifh. Stamp-duties were introduced in 1637. Subjidy is one per cent, granted by the pope to the kings of Spain, upon all eccle- fiaflical rents in their dominions, for the war againft the infidels. Saltpetre, fit lp bur, and gun-powder, fealing wax, quickfilver, and tobacco, are all royal monopolies. Of the latter I mall fpeak more particularly, when I come to treat of Seville. It was granted by the cortes, A. D. 1 356- Wool [ t»l ] Wool. In the year 1437, a tax was im» pofed on all wool in general, called Servicio y montazgo ; but, to encourage the produc- tion, tills was changed by Ferdinand VL into a duty on fine wool exported. The coarfe wool is kept at home. In my fchedule, the Indian revenue is ftated by Uztariz at forty millions, and by count de Grepi, the imperial conful, at more than ten times as much. The former means the nett produce; the latter takes the grofs amount. Mr. Lifton's average often years agrees nearly with Uztariz ; but Mr. Carmichael, the American envoy, ftates fixty millions. The fad, however, is, if we may believe thofe who are the heft informed, that the Spanim colonies yield no direct re- venue to the mother country. This being the cafe, I cannot conceive upon what au- thority, the Abbe Raynal ftates the clear re- venue from America at thirty-four millions five hundred thoufand livres, or, in reals vellon, at one hundred thirty-eight millions clear, befides eighty-two millions three hundred thirty-feven thoufand eight hun- dred reals paid for duties in Europe. N 3 Count [ 182 ;] Count de Grepi ftates the reverme in America as follows : Cuftoms on European com- modities, according to the years 1785 and 1786, Alcavala on ditto, introduced A. D. 1 591, Tobacco rent in New Spain and other provinces, intro- duced A. D. 1752, - - Duties on gold and filver ex- ported, - Tribute of the Indians, Crufades, introduced A. D. 1509, Quickfilver fold, Stamp-duties, introduced A. D. 1641, Coinage, - Acapulco trade, Sale of the herb Mathe', - Sale of paper on the king's account, Rents of the Jefuits, Cards, and other monopolies, Reals Vellon. 42,240,000 54,120,000 100,000,000 60,000,000 40,000,000 20,000,000 6,000,000 20,000,000 6,000,000 10,000,000 10,000,000 10,000,000 8,000,000 6,000,000 Rents [ i?s ] Rents of the Philippines, - 30,000,000 Tax on negroes, - - 4,000,000 »— — — — — ■ R s vellon 426,360,000 The alcavalas on American productions are omitted, as are alfo ibme other taxes, of which the count was not able to procure any information. The following fchedule will mew the produce of the taxes in the royal treafury. To reduce the reals to pounds fterling, drop the two laft figures, becaufe one pound is equal to one hundred reals vellon. N 4 A Digeft t 184 ] o o Q w t> > t— I a. CO Cm O ,, O to O «M 1 *"" * * no -3- 00 00 ON O *% c* <£< c~- ►— *H f> « ON OS t-» o <~ooo t-^ O ^ O O o "+■ t^ N M O ^ *\ * ** ** t3\w« O 10 O pt> to Tt" N — N O ro to N « 00 ro i-t OM 2 NO to -. c3 on o q on g 0^0 1-1 ON S i-i M ON no 00 NO + Ol H t^-00 2 N >-• ON -a to -J- so 4; tr. U c, - o o o + uiO <-♦■> o o 000 ro O O ON O O N -<+• O to — O M4 »-l ** *H \Q to « O O O o o o OOOO OOOO q q q q 6660 to O On to o « VO I I I • 06 c US 4J e CO c N H E. 000 000 000 » *. n to O O N O O to to C> OOO OOO 000 q do d O 00 O o r^ o N to N w to O O o o o o o o o q n d r^ o o o -c N u O O q d o tO I 8 I I O ■* 1^ r^ NO « — NO N to ■+ eo a , •* » «V «\ *- ** *C$- ** O CNNO — ^" O 00 foe m — O tONO « » tiO M i^miAiM O 00 CO t^NO t>.NO t^ r-. •-> On c-> r^ N to VO N NO NO NO N OO rh rosO *, rs *, — , ■ t-v On O 00 ►1 N ro to 1 n o n r>. " T - •> r ro OO O 1 o. j- NO -4- O O (J VO 1-1 OG tv. n. On rt r>* #* •» 1— t M N I OO to ■ ' N ' i?iii 1 1 Hi 1 1 «C ■*.•*) *N (^ !-• »-» g ^( N- o o o -3 OOO OOO OOO •* *s ^ n o o 1 1 1 liif !!i8,g»i 1 1 l % rt C CO C <-: a 3 O rt J3 -n C 1 1 R w> a >, n t a ri CO -a u B a, ■d <:<;w r j c o J-H c s u 14 CD s o .5 o "~« w , cu 1 o to bC-r) - 5t2f vO VO •+00 O " N voCO 10 to -*■ 4- O O vo vr. W O w "• M it- O to H vo TO OVO NM to to to to O r^ O 00 ft oo VO vo vO -*■ O o o ft o to ON ">f N N O O 00 r^ N O O O Q 000 O VO O CO — On O 00 MOO O r^ ft 1 at * •! 1 ■ o\ — ■* M O + 1 OvO WN ON O O . ■«f O to I O OMfl vo v£ -*t- « O voO co ft ft •* #» »* •» *»•*•* w to >■» w H,U> O to to O vo to O to r-. N t^ — vo to O O O O N O O -§ N O O O O <-o O O £ VO OO 10 O O 3 »-« o"n y S " w O To *\ O N 1 1 VO O O O 00 1 1 1 to G vo ♦ Ov O vo O ~ f-» CO « -* 10 -+■ O LO 0O M 00 vo T^- to Ml -"*-= <fl i-< CO CO 00 N 00 •» *s »\ 1*3 r»« — * 1 VO ■v, O WN 1 fv. «1 — 1 O 00 ! to «+■ ON cJ to'iC <-i to "" to VO vo O 00 ~* ■*f O vo if On toco ON ■* rt- t/> VO + — n -• cn r^. — o\ -f t^ •*- N rJ — voO On to >-« OO CO -f o\ O CO ~. N N tJ- rf to to VO ^ 1 Tf 00 , N vo • O *J3 biD CD Oh ■A W CM ¥~J u -ri W5 N f^ K00\O -" M "-< ON N O 1^ N O ►h tj -> ON in laO tM ■»• t^ ^- -< to 0\NiaM O N t^-NO "-' CO Onco to -*• w « *v •* * *> loco -*■ ■**- NO -*■ I^o N N 4o\ o « i— la N on loco r-^NO IANO to -+- rj- LA <4- 0\ ON ■+■ ON On to la t^ * | ■ l - 1 to On -> co — r^ o O ' ' ' co O -4" LOCO ON O O NO ONO O -«*- f>. N to N p- NWlN ON N CO N to -3-00 to O O to la On to to O tJ- o »h n la to tC laCO O >a d no *- N O i ■+■ O ~ m — K-+ rn fO M t(-i-> t^tOLAtoON oolaOn O ^ la toto « NO to fv. O Lrt O O LA LA I S CO L/«» n t-^ ** to " •-• ON to CO ■3- to -. r. c^no On n O r^ t^-NO tv.00 CO CO >- ^J-NO t» ON "*■ i— "4-NO OO -3" — O CO NO ON O 00 toCO CO IAN laO La-"NO N"-NNNt1->-vO -^- -< r^. r^. n >-• O O to O la — r-^ O LA O LA -4-vO -+■ ^t" O to o lo t!- r^ O o ■4- to r^ o ■*• On -« OO rhNO N N tOLAC^NO tOOO •+no •<*" O r^ to On t» no la O lanO ON O0 LA N to •^ , O r* ^ « U C OS QJ *-» *-> — o ■ — CO g -C O o.2- o 4-* OJ3 — bo v it to O u S * 3 C « c±J V zi rt K to ECL> ■n 3 '> -a -d A C3 1-. " u n *t3 t^ ** ui UH 'S O u L- o N 3 t- O L. <+, . 3 O C 3 O cv-5 c n u to v to bO « C to rt ggS-S.8 I pro- [ i8 7 ] I procured from the foreign miniflers various ftatements of the expenditure, fuch as they* tranfmitted to their feveral courts, but the one with which I was mod fatis- fied, I had from D. E fie van ZienowiefF, ambaffador from Ruffia, confirmed by that of Mr. Liflon, our own miniiler, on whofe accuracy I could depend. Expenditure. 1778. Reals Veil. To royal boujbold - 24,000,000 To penfions to the princes 10,000,000 To royal chapel - 2,000,CCO To penfions for fuperannuated ferv ts - 3,000,000 To wardrobe and jewellery 8,000,000 To journies to the fitios 15,000,000 To itables - 1 2,000,000 To hunting, including damages i8,ooo,cco To charities and offering 5,000,000 To buildings - 9,000,000 To fecret fervices of the court 2,000,000 Reals Vellon. 108,000,000 To military, for life guards 18,000,000 To infantry, 45 regiments of 953 39,235,810 To militia, 10,880 - 5,848,036 To artillery, with officers, 3,050 4,439,008 To invalids, 7,200 - 6,289,357 To engineers - 1,400,000 To cavalry, 14 regiments of 480 10.581,815 To dragoons, 8 regiments of 480 5,763,882 To general officers 3,600,000 To treafurers, commifTaries, &c. 10,344,282 To fortifications - 1 2,000,000 To clothing, forage, &c. 74,021,389 To [ i88 ] To widows of officers and orphans - To military hofpitals - To recruiting fervice in foreign 1 countries - J To department of council of war To miniiler of war and comis - ■i To navy, for 64 {hips of the line, and 47 frigates, 50,0,00 faiiors 12,096 marines To department of the Indies To department of finance To ditto of juftice To tribunals of juftice - To foreign department for the mi- nifter and his comis To ambaflador at Rome Ditto at London Ditto at other courts To couriers, confuls, and fecref fervice - To china manufactory at Re^iro To Goblin tapeftry and Periian carpet - To painters, architects, and penfion To academy, cabinet, and library To hofpitals To highways and canals To penfions to ftrangers, and inci- dents - - - To intereft of their debts, and li- quidation - Total reals yellon 4,378,615 5,800,000 700,000 1,000,000 800,000 204,202,194. — 1 00,000,000 8,000,000 4,500,000 1,100,000 8,422,769 1,140,000 900,000 710,000 6,003,162 6,000,000 H>753>1 6 * 436,188 397,100 440,000 900,000 400,000 4,000,00c 3,300,000 9,873,288 ■—• 30,000,000 488,851,413 In [ 189 ] In the preceding eftimate, the china manufacture at the Buen Retiro is made debtor only four hundred and thirty ^fix thoufand one hundred and eighty -eight reals ; but, from the extent of the concern, and from a more minute account received from Mr. Carmichael, I am inclined to think that one million has been inadvert- ently omitted : it would then ftand one million four hundred and thirty-fix thou- fand one hundred and eighty-eight reals. Belides this miflake, if it be one, the ex- pence of the glafs manufacture is here overlooked, which Mr. Carmichael Hates at one million one hundred and thirty-fix thoufand eight hundred and eighty-four; and the lofs by the cloth manufactures, which is not ftated. Yet, in the govern- ment returns, the manufactures of glafs and cloth are reported to yield, on the average of ten years, fix million two hundred and thirteen thoufand fix hundred and eighty- fix reals profit. From an attentive examination of all that I have been able to collect, I am perfuaded that the revenue has not for many years been equal to the expenditure ; and whilit I was [ i 9 o ] I was at Oviedo, in the year 1786, the mi- nifter of the finance, in his circular letter fent through all the provinces, urged the collectors to diligence and itrict attention in the collection of the taxes, becaufe the ex- pences of government were forty millions of reals more than the revenue. Since I quitted Spain, the revenue is increafed, and from good authority I underftand, that the lafl ftatement of Mr. Eden is five hundred millions, or five millions Britim, and that now they have a furplus of revenue to dif- charge former debts. The debts are of various kinds; fome ancient, others more recent. The former date their origin from the revolt of the Belgic provinces, A. D. 1566 ; and a con- flict of more than three and forty years, during which, contracting a debt of two hundred million of dollars, Spain, without effect, attempted to reduce them, left fuch derangement in her finances, that ilie has ever fince been crippled in all her opera- tions, when at any time me hath found herielf engaged in war. The country, ex- haufted by this long continued conteft, cried univerfally for peace, and Philip III. A. D. I tyl ] A. D. 1609, although he would not ac- knowledge the fovereignty of the new re- public, confented to a truce : but his fuc- cefTor, having other views, provoked hofti- lities, carried on a very expenfive war, and before he confented to the peace of Mun- fter, and to the independancy of the United Provinces, A. D. 1646, difcovered that he had doubled the debt; which, therefore, amounted to about fixty millions of our money. The principal creditors were the Genoefe, and other foreign merchants, to whom, as fecurity for payment of the principal with interefr, government affigned certain por- tions of the revenue; which were denomi- nated juros, becaufe they pafTed like other property, either by defcent or transfer. Thefe Genoefe, and other foreign mer- chants, being, after the expulfion of the Jews, the chief farmers of the revenue, and being at the fame time the principal credi- tors, are accufed of innumerable frauds again ft the public, and this with both the connivance and participation of the clerks and comptrollers of the treafury. When their evil practices were brought to light, they t l 9* ] they fold their juros to the natives, to the gremios, to the convents, and to the prin- cipal nobility ; yet frauds continued, and thus admin iftered, the intereft of the debt fwallowed up the whole of the revenue. In order, therefore, to redeem the juros ; the tax called millones, or a fpecies of excife already fpoken of under the article of pro- vincial rents, was granted by the cortes 3 yet the deficit continued; In confequence of this, many, whofe ancefbors had pur- chafed juros, were happy to fell them at a lofs of ninety per cent, whilfr. the Genoefe and Grangers, Hill farmers of the revenue, being purchafers, paid them back for rent to government at par. Thefe abufes did not efcape the notice of the writers, who were moll diftinguifhed for their abilities and zeal : but govern- ment paid no attention to this branch of political economy. Much falutary advice was given, although to little purpofe, and no ftep was taken to remedy this evil, till the dyn.afty was changed, and an heir of the houfe of Bourbon fucceeded to the throne. This monarch, Philip V. reduced the interen:, [ l 91 1 intereft, which had originally been five, ten, or even fifteen per cent, to three, which was the legal flandard ; but it was not till 1749, that a board was eftablifhed and comrnifiioners appointed to examine the juros, and to fettle accounts with the pro- prietors. Campomanes Ed, Pop. Apend. i. 211 — 250. Ap. iv. 36 — 380. At different periods considerable debts have been difcharged, paying thofe pro- prietors who made the moil advantageous offers to the ftate, and were willing to part with their intereft in the revenue on the loweft terms: but at the fame time the fum total of the debt, if we take into con- fideration the arrears of interefr, has been conftantly increaiing. To give a more diftincl: idea of this in- cumbrance, I mail, on the authority of Count Campomanes, ftate the debt for which the millones or excife duties of Ma- drid have been given as fecurity, and from this inftance we may form fome judgment of the reft ; obferving here, as I have done frequently already, that by dropping the two laft figures you convert the reals into pounds. Vol. II. O This [ 194 ] This debt, A. D. 1685, was 187,500,000 reals, the intereft of which at five per cent, would have been 9,375,000 reals, but the excife duties of Madrid being farmed at 3,841,176 reals, there was confequently a deficit. A. D. 1775. The debt, fome portion of which bore in- tereft at three, whilft the remainder by compact flood at two and a half per cent. was found to be increafed Reals ■■ ■ »— — «i 292,644,549 Deduct paid ofF w T ith confide- rable voluntary lofs to cre- ditors, - 5,643,546 Total of the debt, - 287,001,003 From i m ] From this ftatement it is vifible that fince the year 1685, including arrears of intereft, this part of the public incumbrance, inflead of being leffened, is increafed nearly a hun- dred millions of reals, or one million fter- ling. The fecond clafs of public debts are thofe contracted by the emperor Charles V. in his ram wars. Thefe amounted, accord- ing to the abbe Raynal, to one thoufand million of livres tournois; which, at twenty- four livres to the pound, is £.41,666,666. But the intereft of this being then more than the whole revenue, the ftate, in the year 1688, became bankrupt. At the death of Charles II. and the ac- ceffion of a new family, public credit was reftored ; and* in lefs than half a century, Philip V. availing himfelf of this reviving confidence, contracted frem engagements, to the amount of near feven millions fter- ling* His fucceflbr, Ferdinand VI. con- fulted the mofl learned cafuifts in his em- pire upon this queftion, whether a fove- reign is bound to pay the debts of the pre- ceding monarch ? This fimple queftion was folemnly determined in the negative. O 2 It [ '96 ] It being therefore fettled, that the king ihould not difcharge theie engagements, Ferdinand accumulated treafure, and left his coffers well repienifhed. Charles III. found, according to the abbe Raynal, one hundred and fixty million of livres in his treafure on his acceflion, and formed the pious refolution of paying all his father's debts -, but when he had expended half this fum, he confumed the remaining part in fruitlefs wars. Like his predeceilors, to gain the good opinion of his fubjecls, he remitted all the arrears due for taxes, from the feve- ral provinces and cities of his empire, which to many of them was no fmall favour, becaufe, excepting Galicia, moil of them are very tardy in their payments. Thus matters flood, till the Spaniards entered into the laft war for the emancioa- i tion of America ; when, feeling diftrefs for want of money, the miniiler thought of trying how far he could avail hlmfelf of paper credit -, an expedient little mi ted to the genius of a defpotic government, and leaft of all to one, which had never fhewn regard to public faith. He began with Kill- ing nine million of dollars, in fifteen thou- fand [ 197 ] fand notes of fix hundred dollars each, bear- ing intereft at four per cent. Of this trans- action I (hall have occafion to fpeak fur- ther, when I come to treat of the new- bank, which has fo far reftored the credit of this paper, that, from being at twenty- four per cent, difcount, it now bears a pre- mium. Government avows the emiffion of twen- ty-eight million {even hundred and ninety- nine thou fand nine hundred dollars, at three ieveral periods during the war ; but pro- fefles to have withdrawn one million two hundred thoufand ; fo that, eftimating the dollar at three (hillings, the whole of this debt is jC-4> i 39>9^5» anc * ^ e annua l mte ~ reft of this £.i£>S>599> a tr ^i n g incum- brance, when compared to the debts of France and England. The juros are not here to be carried to the account, becaufe they are deducted out of the grofs produce of the revenue, and the amount I have ftated is only what it clears. All good Spaniards have exclaimed againft the operation of their taxes ; and, in confe- cuence of thefe expostulations, as far as re- lates to foreign trade, government has fo O 3 regulated f 198 J regulated the cuftoms upon imports and exports, upon goods manufactured, and upon raw materials, as to encourage home productions ; but then the alcavalas and millones operate fo powerfully againft thefe provifions, that the manufacturer cannot lift up his head, nor ftand the competition with nations, who are bleffed with a wifer fyftem of finance. The alcavala, with its four cientos, being a tax of fourteen per cent, on every thing that is fold or bartered, even for oxen and mules ufed in hufbandry, for the raw materials ufed in manufactures, and for the commo- dity itfelf when fold, and this not once for all, but as often as the property is transfer- red, were this tax collected with rigour* it would create either a general fcagnation or refinance, and, perhaps, fome effectual remedy againft it. The operation of the millones is not more favourable to manufactures. This tax may be conlidered as an additional alcavala, under another name, confined wholly to provifions, and is collected with fuch ri- gour, that even private families are obliged to pay eight reals, or 1 .r. y\d. for every § fheep [ 199 ] iheep or pig killed upon their own eftate, -and deftined for their own confumption. When the marquis de la Enfenada, prime minifter to Ferdinand VI. turned his atten- tion to this buiinefs, he faw clearly that Spain could never rife up into confidera- tion under the preflure of fuch taxes, and therefore he conceived the idea of fubfti- tuting in their place one contribution, to be fettled according to every man's ability, the whole amount being equivalent to the fum antecedently collected. For this pur- pofe he eftablifhed a commiiiion of thirty thoufand perfons, to make the proper invef- tigations, and to carry his purpofe into exe- cution. Before he could accomplish this ar- duous undertaking, his mailer died; Charles III. fucceeded to the throne; and he was permitted to retire. His fuccefibr, a man of Angular abilities, never loft light of fo excellent a plan. This was the marquis of Squilace, who, having ferved with the king in Italy, as commiifary general, attended him to Spain, became his minifter, and, by his intrigues, foon contrived that every power in the ftate mould centre in himfelf. This extraordinary man has been accufed O4 of [ 200 ] of rapacity ; but, however that may be, certain it is, that Spain, had he continued in office, would have had abundant reafon to admire the wifdom of his government. To him the people of Madrid are indebted, not only for the cleanlinefs of its ftxeets, but for their fafety from aiTaiiins, becaufe he made them lay afide their capa and their Douched hats, by which both their perfons and their purpofes had been effectually con- cealed. This innovation, however excel- lent, this violence offered to deep rooted prejudices, excited indignation; and, being accompanied by an accidental fcarcity of corn, raifed a ftorm, which nothing but his difgrace was able to allay. The fovereign himfelf felt the mock upon his throne, and fled with his favourite, but was foon pre-^ vailed upon to return, and to fhew himfelf to his enraged people from the balcony, where the venerable count of Revillagige- do, viceroy of Mexico, on whofe word they could depend, allured them that the object of their refentment was diimiffed, and would never more return. The florin fub- fided ; Squilace retired to Italy ; and thus, in one moment of popular frenzy, all his well [ 201 ] well digested plans for the reformation of the finance, the encouragement of manu- factures, and the renovation of the empire, were rendered ineffectual, and vanifhed with himfelf. The commiffioners who were 'appointed to take the value of all the land, induftry, and commerce of the twenty-two pro- vinces comprehended in the kingdom of Caftille, after having made a deduction of one-third for accidents, eftimated the re- mainder at two thoufand one hundred and fifty-two millions one hundred and fifty- feven thoufand three hundred and fixty- four reals vellon, or a little more than one and twenty millions and an half fterling. Then having calculated the average of the provincial rents at one hundred and thirty- nine millions reals vellon, or £.1,390,000; to raife an equivalent for this fum, it was found neceffary to impofe 6 ?{- per cent, on lands, houfes, induftry, and commerce, in- cluding phyficians, comedians, muficians, fervants, labourers, and artifts, not exceot- ing the clergy, who are ftated as poiTerTing two-fifths of all the cultivated land. For this purpofe an edicl; was publifhed in the year [ 202 ] year 1770 -, but unfortunately, like fome others, it remained without effect. One proviiion in this edict mewed the wifdom of the head that formed it ; for it was or- dained that fertile land, although unculti- vated, mould pay the tax. We have feen, that the paper money ilTued by government was depreciated to twenty-four per cent, when M. Cabarrus, by the inflitution of a national bank, re- stored the public credit, and faved the country. This gentleman is diftinguifhed for lingular abilities, for a clear head, and for a ready elocution. I have related, on what occafion I had firft the happinefs of meeting him. He did me then the honour to take notice of me, and ever after ad- mitted me when he had leifure to entertain his friends. The bank of S. Carlos is too lingular in its hiilory to be pafTed by in lilence. It .met with rough uiage in its beginning, but the indefatigable application of the projector, fupported by the good fenfe of count Florida Blanca, overcame all difficul- ties, and eft-abliihed it on a firm founda- tion, if we may call that firm, which the breath [ 20 3 ] breath of a weak monarch, or one ftroke of the pen of a wicked minifter, can over- throw. At the firit. inftitution of the bank, it confifled of one hundred and fifty thou- fand mare?, at two thoufand reals each, constituting a capital of three millions Ster- ling, with liberty to add annually three thoufand mares, for thirty years, in order that there might not be one citizen of the Spanifh empire excluded from this bene- ficial enterprize. To create a confidence in the public, the directors were not to enter into any fpeculation, except were the king mould give them a commiflion, for foreign and diftant commerce, or to favour the agricul- ture and manufactures of the kingdom; and to remove all occafion of jealoufy, the bank was to have no exclufive privilege, nor any monopoly ; they were to receive at par, and thereby to procure circulation for the government paper, even at a time when it was from twenty to twenty-four per cent, difcount. By way of recompence, or, as it was called, equivalency, they were to make all contracts for the feeding and clothing of the t 204 ] the army, and for the fupply of the navy, receiving ten per cent, commiffion for their trouble, and four per cent, per annum for all the money they mould advance. This grant was for twenty years. Befide this, they were to have the extraction, or the exclu- Jtve privilege of exporting fpecie, collect- ing from the merchant four per cent, for the ufe of government, and three for the bank. They were to have one per cent. . on all remittances from the court of Ma- drid to its miniflers in foreign parts, and four per cent, for difcounting bills. No entail was to be valid againft the demands of the bank. Notwithstanding fuch encouragements, the Spaniards had no confidence in this new eitabliihment, but either locked up their money in flrong chefts, or folicited the gremios to take it in at a low intereft, whihl in France and Switzerland, monied men came into the fcheme with fuch avi- dity, that actions bore a premium of three hundred per cent, till fuddenly a panic feiz- ed them, and the whole fabric was in dan- ger of inftant ruin and deltruc~tion. To regain their confidence, the bank bought [ 20 5 ] bought in many anions, and lent money ztfour per cent, to the ftockholders on the fecurity of their actions, engaging at the fame time to pay them their dividend of /even per cent, or more, if it mould be due. This ffcrange manoeuvre had the defired ef- fect ; for the proprietors in Paris, borrow- ing money of the bank to the amount of twenty millions of reals, for which they were charged only four, whilft, without any rifk, they received nine per cent, their former eagernefs returned, and the demand for actions was every v/here renewed. It cannot be imagined that the bank long perfevered in this ftrange practice. Such conduct mult foon have ftript them of their capital i becaufe every proprietor would have borrowed money to the full value of his actions, and the bank would have been annihilated. Therefore, at the fourth ge- neral meeting it was refolved, that no more than five hundred reals mould be advanced on one action of two thoufand. The profperous condition cf this new eftablimment will appear from a ftatement of its annual gains. A, D. [ 206 ] A. D. Reals vellon. M y . 1783 The bank gained - 3,301,255 8 1784 - 17,137,622 22 1785 - 48,346,675 18 1786 * 20,473,093 13 In this laft year, the actionifts divided only feven per cent. ; but in the preceding they had nine, beiides inverting twenty-one millions of reals in the new Philippine com- pany, of which I fhall hereafter treat. The reafon of this difference in their profits, and the nature of their operations, will be clear- ly feen, by giving their reports to the pro- prietors at their annual meeting in the years 1785 and 1786. 1785. By intereil on government Reals. m*. paper - 3>5 6 9>533 2 7 By difcount of bills - 1,260,519 18 By intereft on money ad- vanced on actions - 594,106 23 D° — for America - 503,118 32 D° — Proviiions of the army - 1,435,109 12 D° — Cadiz department 617,180 28 By [ 207 ] By intereft on money ad- vanced on letters of ex- Reals. M s , change - - 1,411,904 5 By commimon of one per cent, for the crown - 253,164 14 D° — for America - 197,450 3 p° — Cadiz - - 870,913 29 By extraction of fpecie, at three per cent. - - 11,883,656 23 By commimon of ten per cent, on provifions - 3,066,763 3 "D* D° for pre/idios - - 407,024 32 D° D° of the navy - - 1,187,221 13 D° D° — timber - - 765,892 29 D° D° — iron - - 201,434 27 By increafe of value on actions - - - 21,552,840 — 49>777> 8 35 ** Deduct expences - 1,431,159 28 Total gain - 48,346,675 18 Deduct inveflment in Philippine company 21,000,000 — Remains to be divided 27,346,675 18 1786. f 208 ] 1786. By intercft on government Rea is. w 4 paper - - - - _ 936,920 — By difcount of bills, de- ducting brokerage - 2,513,857 32 By interefl of money ad- vanced on actions - 2,386,803 15 By operations of the bank at Cadiz - 4,007,960 20 By letters of exchange for government - - - 20.602 15 By commifiion of one per cent, for the crown - 247,264 28 D a — for America - 3*963 I By extraction of fpecie at three per cent. - - 10,234,299 22 By profit on purchafe and fale of actions - - - 310,960 — By increafe of value on five thoufand four hundred and fifty-three actions bought in - 1,616,210 20 22,278,842 17 Deduct charges of ad- miniftration - - 1,805,749 4 Remains to be divided 20,473,093 13 By [ 2o 9 ] By this ftatement it appears, that, i 5t ,The credit of the bank procured a ready rirculation for the government paper - y be- caufe the interefl of that proportion, which, during the courfe of the year, was in the poi- feffion of the bank, funk from more than three millions and an half to lefs than one million. 2 d , The difcounting bufinefs increafed to nearly double in the fpace of twelve months. 3 d , The intereft for money advanced on actions, mews clearly, that the proprietors of one- fifth part of the whole capital had withdrawn their proportion ; willing at the fame time to take their chance for a divi- dend, at the fob rifk of thofe, who, from rafhnefs, from folly, or from inattention, neglected to follow their example. 4 th , The extraction or exportation of fpe- cie funk confiderably. It was naturally to be expected that this mould be the cafe. Previous to the inftitution of the bank, when government permitted the exporta- tion of fpecie, it was under a duty of four per cent, the average produce of which was about three millions of reals; but when it; Vol. II. P became [ 210 ] became the interefl of the bank to watch the fmuggler, the duties rofe to fixteen millions. Merchants, however, when one road is flopped, exert their fagacity to find out fbme other; and, where fuch a com- modity as filver is in queflion, they eafily furmount the obftacles oppofed to its ex- portation. 5 th , One fource of profit, producing more than five millions and an half in the year 1785, is, in the fubfequent year, dried up a This matter requires to be explained. The government being much diftreiTed o o for money, had, as all fpendthrifts are for- ced to do, borrowed on very difadvantageous, terms, and then repented of the hard con- ditions, to which it had confented. The eommiflion of ten per cent, appeared exor- bitant; and the vouchers produced by the directors of the bank, for the articles they had purchafed on account of the army and the navy, were not fatisfactory to the mini- fler of the finance. Befides thefe objections, the exhaufled treafury was not in a condi- tion to difcharge its moft-reafonable obliga- tions to the bank, and to pay thofe arrears which itfelf acknowledged to be jufl. All was was in confufion ; the minifter continued muttering his threats, and the projector of the bank was loud in his expostulations. The latter fuggefted, with great propriety, that, in a country, where juftice and the laws were lilent, and where arbitrary power pre- vailed, the minifter might for once plunder and feize, with a ftrong hand, the whole of their capital ; but that, in fuch a cafe, he muft not expect to be trufted a fecond time, and muft. therefore renounce for ever the idea of a bank. This argument was felt 5 and the minifter determined, that the bank mould have the contract for the army and the navy at the fame prices as had been laft given to the gremios, and that this new re- gulation mould have a retrofpect. The bargain was thus made more advantageous for the public ; but how far this tranfiction was agreeable to juftice, it was for the mi- nifter of the finance to fay. The gremios, or the five incorporated companies of Madrid, have a joint capital, as fictors, to purchafe all commodities, and fell to the retail dealers ; the manufacturers being prohibited by law to fell by retail. This body, with a confiderabie capital of P2 its [ 212 ] its own, and borrowing as much, as it could employ, at two per cent, had all the contracts for the court, for the prefidios, and for the army, both for food and clothing ; but fince the eftablimment of the bank, this mono- poly has fhifted hands; and government, inftead of availing itfelf of the competition between the gremios and the bank, has de- livered itfelf up to the latter, for the ad- vancement of its credit. But, as it would not be fufficlent to grant beneficial contracts, without fulfilling its engagements, government agreed to give an affignment of the four per cent, duties on the extraction of lilver for three years, unlefs the arrears to the bank fhould be previoufly difcharged. Upon coming thus to a mutual under- standing, the directors of the bank agreed to advance money for making a canal from Guadarama, at the foot of the Sierra which divides the two Caftilles, to Seville, and to fuperintend the work, receiving ten per cent, commimon, and four per cent, per annum, for all the money they mould expend. I might proceed to give fome idea of the Philippine company, in which the bank has [ 2i3 3 has engaged two hundred and ten thoufand pounds fterling, as I have already ftated; but this I (hall referve till I come to Cadiz, when I mail have occafion to treat of com- merce, and more efpecially of the trade car- ried on between the mother country and its colonies. The population of Spain may now be afcertained, if we may depend on the recent returns to government. By thefe it appears, that the whole amounted, in the year 1787, to ten millions two hundred and fixty- eight thoufand one hundred and fifty fouls. In this number are included, Males, unmarried - - 2,926,229 Females, ditto - - 2,753,224 Married men - 1,947,165 Married women - - 1,947,496 Widowers - - - 2 35>77% Widows - 462,258 Total population 10,268,150 Among thefe we may diftinguifh, Parochial clergy, called curas, - 16,689 Affirmants, called tenientes curas, 5>77i Sacriilans, or fextons, - - l0 >%73 P 3 Acolitos, [ 2I 4 ] Acolitos, to affifl at the altar, - 5'5°3 Orclinados de patrimonio, having a patrimony of three reals a day, 13,244 Ordinados de menores, with in- ferior ecclefiaftical orders, io.774 Beneiiciados, or canons of cathe- drals, or other beneficiaries, - 23,692 Monks - 61,617 Nuns - 32,500 Beatas - 1,130 Syndics, to colled: for the mendi- cants, - 4,127 Inquifitors, «• ' -. - 2,705 188,625 Men fervants, - Criados, - 280,092 Day labourers, - Jomaleros, - 964,571 Peafants, - - Labradores, - 907,1 97 Artifans - 270,989 Manufacturers - 39>75° Merchants, - - 34>339 Knights, - - Hidalgos, - 480,589 Of thefe four hundred one thoufand and forty are in the provinces of the Aft-unas^ Bifcay, Burgos, Galicia, and Leon. the [ «r ] The cities, &c. according to the laji returns. Cities, - - Ciudades H5 Borough towns, Villas 4,572 Villages, - - Lugares 12,732 Hamlets, - - Aldeas 1,058 Granjas, Farm-houfes, 815 Cot os redondos, Parks, or wafte in- clofed . - - - 611 Depopulated towns 1,511 Parilhes - 18,972 Convents ».-*»-.- 8,932 P 4 The [ 2,6 ] I *H co 1) r— i « s s£ c co c Oh H • >— i O a P3 £ .2 rt o o -73 -a OS E c o ^ r)sO sO »-oco Os co iH o tJ- OssO i-« On so CO hh «*- w M- O w CO hh l-O CO CO t!- *#*#S«ViS#tB)«\ #v c t-H 1— 1 t}" "SJ- 1— 1 CO HH CO »-o 'U [T| cociso->-i >-o-^- ) c^i 'C HH I— 1 >-H C4 >— I pj C\m. SO SO O CO rj- *-rj HH r-* CO CO hh CO O COSO CO hh tH CD *-0 iXCO X^O ^^M ^- r3 *\ «\ *\ #t .#v «s' *s • «\ ^ *?H cl hh co T^-sO co O O «-n —< O CJ COCO O CO ^o IN. CO IN. so O coso hh o ^osO (X IX »-osO co co co O tx OsCO xr O M rj- t^ M tN m KO\N (M SO CO rh N m cl co HH I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I i I I I In Sh rt n! W 2 rt O is o << becaufe, wherever fhe difplayed her banners, fhe difperfed her treafures, and after the mo ft fplendid victo- ries never failed to find herfelf exhaufted of her ftrength. At the end of the firft cen- tury fubfequent to the acquifition of Ame- rica, me was reduced to the fad neceflity of debafing her coin, and fo low in credit, that fhe gave more than thirty per cent. for money. This we have on the autho- rity of the univerfity of Toledo, as cuoted by [ 22 4 I by count Campomanes in his Educaciort popular. Cth, The caufe commonly afiigned for the depopulation of the country, as if it were the only caufe, is the expulfion of the Moors. (A. D. 1613.) To this may be added the previous expulfion of the Jews, to the number of eight hundred thoufand, by Ferdinand and Ifabella, who banifhed thefe infidels in token of gratitude to heaven for the conqueft of Granada. This wound was grievcus; but, before the nation had recovered frrength, to banim nine hundred thoufand of its mod induftrious fubjecls, was fuch a flroke, that to the prefent day it is feverely felt. Under the befl govern- ment, with the mofl propitious circum- ftances, it would require ages to retrieve fo great a lofs. 6th, Confequent to the expulfion of the Moors, their repeated and almofl inceifant depredations along the whole extent of coaft, warned by the waters of the Mediterranean Sea, rendered the moft fertile parts of Spain unfafe, and the produce exceedingly preca- rious. For the laft century, the number of Spanilh captives, at Algiers, has ufually been about [ 225 ] about thirty thoufand, and their ranfom has been reckoned, one with another, at a thou- fand dollars, or one hundred and fifty- pounds, amounting in the whole to four millions and an half Sterling. With fuch a premium for the ranfom of their captives, thefe pirates found ample fupplies for the equipment of their gallies. (V. Camp. Ap. i. 373.) Government has recently fet- tled a treaty with the Algerines ; and in that, according to the opinion of count Campomanes, the min liters have fhewn. more discretion, than when they attempted to deflroy that neft of pirates- His judg- ment is founded on this maxim, divide et impei' a: fupport the Algerines, that you may weaken the empire of Morocco. 7th, Among the defolating caufes, mult be reckoned their change of government* not on account of the blood of their befl citizens, lhed in the doubtful conflict, for that lofs in time might be retrieved, but from the unremitted operation of a bad government. It muft be confeffed, that under defpotifm may accidentally be found wifdom and equity, with wealth and power ; bvit, fince the lofs of liberty, thefe have no,t Vox. II. Q^ been. [ 226 ] been feen in Spain. In national affemblies, able leaders may arife to reprefent their grievances, and to feek redrefs. Had Spain enjoyed her cortes after light was diffufed in Europe, when citizens began to afcertain their rights, and to make off the chains of feodal tyranny, me would not fo long have groaned under oppreffion. Although fome grievances, fince the re- prefentation of count Campomanes, have been redreffed, yet, by their long continu- ance, they tended to defolate the country, and therefore well deferve to be recorded. I fhall felecl the moil remarkable, and fupport them by quotations from his inef- timable works. Thefe relate to the reve- nue, the army, and the police. No country ever invented a more ruin- ous fyflem of finance, or one lefs friendly to manufactures and to commerce. The ale aval a, with its cientos, being a tax of fourteen per cent, on all commodities, both on the raw materials, and on the fame when manufactured, as often as the pro- perty changes hands, rated, not according to the prime coil, but to the felling price, and therefore conftantly increafing, is al- moft t 227 ] molt fufficient of itfelf to create a general Stagnation. This effect is evident in Caf- tille ; whilft in Catalonia and in the pro- vinces of Arragon, where Philip V. ex- changed this opprefTive tax for the equiva- lent, induftry prevails, and manufactures flourifhw The millones, being a tax upon provifions, tends to increafe the price of labor, and thereby indirectly proves an ob- ftacle to foreign commerce. With fuch powerful inducements to de- fraud the revenue, to what innumerable vexations, in order to prevent this, mufl the manufacturers and merchants have been fubjected by government, more efpecially when the revenue was let to farmers, who, with their fervants, were an hundred thou- fand. Thefe watchful harpies were au- thorized to place their fpies at the door of every (hop, to examine the tradefman's books, to put their feal on his commodi- ties, to demand the testimony of thofe, who were fent to purchafe, with the at- teftation of the purchaser himfelf, and to require certificates from thofe, on whom the commodity was found. (Vide Camp. E. P. Ap. iv. p. 244.) The farmers of the Q^2 taxes [ 228 ] taxes were originally Jews ; but the wealth to be acquired by plunder made the em- ployment honourable. Their mifconduct called loudly for redrefs, and this grievance is no longer found in Spain. But what mall we fay, mould a more enlightened nation, boafting of freedom, fubmit to fimilar oppreffions ? That the vexations fpecified tended to de- populate the country muft be evident -, that they produced this effect, Oforio, as quoted by count Campomanes, affures us in his difcourfe on the grievances under which the nation laboured. He afferts, that in the villages, not one-third of the houfes had efcaped the rapacity of thofe who farmed the taxes ; becaufe, when nothing elfe re- mained to the miferable peafants, thefe mercilefs exactors feized their houfes, and fold the materials to the firft, who was in- clined to purchafe. This caufe of depopu- lation was not removed till the year 1749. (Vide Camp. E. P. Ap. i. p. 347.) Among a great variety of caufes pro- ducing this effect, and itfelf the genuine offspring of bad government, is the want of a free market. Under the idea of prevent- ing [ 22 9 J Ing impofition, the magiftrate authorized to intervene between the buyer and the fel- ler fixed the price of all commodities, even of corn and manufactures, to the fole ad- vantage of alguaziles, regidors, and efcriva- nos, but to the deftruction of agriculture, and to the difcouragement of induftry. This evil was introduced by Philip II. when the gold and filver of America had leflened the value of money in the mother country; or as the people in general complained, when every commodity was grown extra- vagantly dear. It was, however, confined to the kingdom of Caftille; and, conie- quently the provinces of Catalonia, Arra- gon, and Valencia, being free, were both more populous and better cultivated than it, although their foil, excepting Valencia, is far from rich. (Vide Camp. E. P. Ap. i. p. 240 — 254. 365. 418.) As to manu- factures, it was in the reign of Alonzo el Sebio, A. D. 1256, that the magiftrates firfl interfered to fix the price, and this they did without regarding the gcodnefs of the materials or the value of the work. The confequence of fuch a regulation is obvious. (Vide Camp. E. P. Ap. iv. p. 64.) Q^3 With [ 23a ] With the intention of rendering provi-* £ons cheap, government, till the year 1765, prohibited the exportation cf grain. For the honour of Spain we may obferve, that nine years fubfequent to this, M. Tur- got prevailed on Lewis XVI. to give fimilar liberty to France, and with the fame good effect. The progrefs of agriculture, the vafr. increafe in the quantity of grain, and the diminution in its price, in confequence of this wife regulation, and of the freedom granted to the farmer for the fale of his commodity, are fufficient to evince how much population mud have been retarded by the previous reflraint. The ignorance and jealoufy of govern- ment were not confined to corn, for with the fame contracted views, and influenced by the fune fliort lighted policy, the kings of Spain effectually difcouraged, and con-, tinue to difcourage, the breed of horfes, which, if not reflrained, would prove a ne- ver failing fource of wealth. The very means adopted to increafe the breed have had the oppcfite effect. To confine the market, and thereby to fink the price; to oblige all the farmers to regiffer their horfes, Wfth with the age, the colour, and the fize; to exact from them a ftrict account, and to fubject them to heavy fines ; to harafs them with unfeafonable vifitors,- and to leave them at the mercy of low men in office ; furely this can never be the way to promote their induftry,and to encourage them in producing the commodity fo much to be defired. The intention of the king is to mount his cavalry at a fmall expence ; but mould the breeder continue fubjecl: to fuch vexations, the race will fail, and mules will fupply their place. Let the ports be open; extend the market; give freedom to commerce ; and leave the farmers unmolefted to purfue their various operations; let their induftry have free fcope to move in ; let them be protected in their perfons and their property; then, let the magiftrate retire. From the fame miftaken policy, dealers, or jobbers, in corn and cattle, have been dif- couraged, under an idea that they raifed the price. This error, however, has not been confined to Spain ; for in the Englifh flatutes are to be found provifions againft rcgrators, yet, without middle men, the attention of the farmer would be diffracted, and for want of a ready fale for his commodities, Qj. he [ 23* I lie would have neither time nor capital to conduct his bufinefs to advantage. Thefe middle men create difpatch, and eventually increafe productions. But from a ftrange inconfiftency of principle, whilft middle men, as dealers in corn and cattle, were dif- couraged, manufacturers were forbid to fell by retail, left they mould injure the com- merce of thegremios. (Vide Camp. E. P.) Previous to the year 1 750, thejijherks were much difcouraged by the rapacity of the cor- regidors, alcaldes, regidors, and other magif- trates, who plundered the fifhermen of their beft fifh, as a recompenfe for their trouble in making the aflize, and then ruined them by fixing the price too low. Thefe grievances I mall flate in treating of the fifhery at Car- thagena. Since the acceflion of the prefent family, found policy has led them to eftabliih bar- racks; but, previous to the commencement of this century, the military were lodged in the houfes of the peafants. In the year 1686, Oforio represented that quartering the fol- diers had deilroyed moil of the villages in Spain. This may be readily conceived, when we are informed that the military Stipend was far from being regularly paid. The [ 233 ] The Hate of the police I Shall give when describing Cadiz and Malaga. Here it may be fufncient to ob Serve, that as the regidors have purchafed their office, they mult naturally feek to indemnify them- felves ; z.nd although deputies and fyndics, with equal authority, are now elected by the people, it is only fince the year 1766, that this palliative, expedient has been pro- vided. The people, thus every where plundered and opprerled, could not increafe and mul- tiply, as they would have done under a free and equitable government. 8th, Convents are by no means favourable to population. Thefe in Spain are eight thoufand nine hundred and thirty-two, containing more than ninety-four thoufand monks and nuns ; but the perfons bound to celibacy by vows are not much below two hundred thoufand. Yet this fuper- abundance of the drones may be confidered not merely as the caufe, but as the effect of their declenfion, being much increafed by the Stagnation of their trade. The univer- sity of Toledo, in a memorial delivered to Philip III. at the beginning of the feven- teenlh I 234 ] teenth century, complains, that not one- tenth of the ufaal number of marriages took place 5 and particularly ftates, that whereas, whilft commerce flourifhed, it had been faid, Quien ha oficio, ha benejicio. He 'who has a trade, has the beji benefice ; now- all parents, dreading the poverty and wretchednefs attached to trade, were in-' clined to breed up their children nuns, monks, and parifh priefts, or even expofed them to perifh in their infancy. Some of the beil Spanifh writers on political econo- my have declared againft multiplying eon- vents, and the cortes, with the confent of Philip IV. determined, about the middle of the laft century, that no more convents mould be built 3 but as general opinion is more powerful than law, this rcfolution of the cortes remained without effect. Once ellablimed, they are not eaiily fupprefTed, becaufe of innumerable maiTes, which muft be daily faid by compact for the fouls in purgatory. 9th, Numerous Je/iha/s tend to depopu- late a country. Benedict XIV. leffened the number in his temporal eflates, and recom- mended a fimilar reduction to his clergy. In [ 235 3 In confequence of this, in the diocefe of Toledo, they have now no more than ninety-? three general feftivals, not including the fpecial feftivals of each parifh, and of the religious houfes, which, in every city fwell the number of unproductive days. If to thefe we add the occafional bull feafts, and the Mondays, claimed both by apprentices and journeymen for their own diverfion, we mail have reduced confiderably the number of working days; but even then we muft be obliged to make a frefh reduc- tion from their time, becaufe the working hours are feldom more than fix ; infomuch that all the unprofitable hours being carried to account, not more than one-third, or per- haps one-fourth, remains for labour. How then is it poffible to ftand a competition in manufactures with more induftrious na- tions ? (F. Camp. E. P. p. 274.) 10th, Prevalence of pajiure tends to de- populate a country. Grazing and tillage mould ever be united. The lame quantity of land, which, in wild pafture, would re- quire the labour of one family, if tilled, would give employment to twenty, or even twice that number. In Spain, ever fince the - [ *3* 1 the year 1350, at which period the plague had carried off two-thirds of the inhabitants, the laws of the Mefta have fet at variance the ploughman and the fhepherd, prevent- ing each from deriving the leaft advantage from the other, infomuch that five millions of fheep, under the fanclion of a peculiar code, not only fail to enrich the lands on which they feed, but effectually prevent its cultivation. Independent of the Merino flock, many of the great landlords have fuf- fered villages to go to ruin, and have let their eftates to graziers, 1 1 th, The want of an Agrarian Law, Previous to the recovery of the fouthern provinces from the dominion of the Moors, the diffracted and divided ftate of the pe- ninfula made it neceffary for the peafants to feek refuge in the cities, or at leaft to affo- ciate in villages for their mutual defence* For this reafon, independent farms, detach- ed and diftant from a town, are feldom, if ever, \ttn in the fouthern provinces of Spain. The cities, towns, and villages, were built on the moft fertile fpots, and between many of them intervened vaft tracts of land, little fufceptible of cultivation. When the plague of [ 2 37 ] of the year 1347 had fpread defoliation through the country, many towns and vil- lages were fuffered to go to ruin and decay, whereby the diftance between thofe that furvived was considerably increafed. To this event has been attributed the extenfive territories of innumerable towns, many of which are from ten to fifteen miles diameter, and therefore too far diliant from the habi- tation of the farmer to admit of cultivation. Adjoining to the village you obferve vines, olives, figs, and grain ; all beyond is defo- late and wafle. Previous to the conquer!, when the i chriftian princes were inclined to make war upon the infidels, they invited the great nobility of other countries, and their own fcodal lords, to join them. Many of thefe could bring into the field five or fix thou- fand valfals, and were bound to maintain them, at leaft. to the frontiers, at their own expence. But then, as moft of thefe were little lefs than independent fovereigns, the prince was obliged to court them ; and, if he would allure them to his Standard, it was by the hope of making conquefts for frkemfelves that he prevailed on them to follow 1 r m i follow him. Hence they acquired by arms* cities, towns, and villages, with extenfive dirtricts. In fucceeding periods, the great nobility, taking advantage of their fovereign during his minority, when either contending for the regency ihemfelves, or embarraffing the regent, they extorted considerable grants from the king's demefhe, confirming of ci- ties, towns, and villages, with the adjacent territories; all which they tranfmitted to their pofterity. By intermarriages, many of thefe vaft pofTeffions have been united ; infomuch that three great lords, the dukes of Ofuna, Alba, and Medina Cceli, cover almoft the whole province of Andalufia 5 and the laft of thefe, claims by inheritance, the greater!; part of Catalonia. Such vaft pofTeffions palling by entail, are far from being friendly to population, more efpecially as the proprietor never re- fides on his eftates, and, being often em- barraffed in his circumstances, has little inclination, and lefs ability, to make im- provements for his heir. 1 2th, To this want of yeomanry, mull be 3 added, I 239 ] added, the defctt of fubjidritial 'tenants* I have already remarked, when fpeakiiig of the court, that raoft of the great eftates are in administration, that is, cultivated by ftewards on the lords account, and there- fore not productive. If tenanted, the rent commonly is paid in kind ; and this, when, from bad crops, corn is dear, ruins the far- mer. In fuch circumftances, it is difficult to raife a tenantry with fufficient capitals to itock a farm. In tillage, it is found, that, to occupy an eftate to advantage requires a capital more than equal to five times the rent. But in Spain, few fuch are to be found. Should they, however, perfect what the wifefl among them, with count Cam- pomanes for their guide, have been long attempting, an agrarian Jaw; mould they, as propofed, allow every man to cultivate what quantity he pleafes of wafle land, without a fpecial grant from the proprietor, and to enjoy it as a copyhold, charged with a quit-pent equal to the value, previous to this improvement; in procefs of time they will raife up both a yeomanry and tenantry, and, in ccnfequence, a more numerous po- pulation. 13 th, [ 240 ] 13 th, "Royal Manufactures and Monopolies have a baneful influence on population ; for, as no private adventurers can Hand the Competition with their fovereign, where he is the great monopolift, trade will never profper. The Spanifh monarch is a manu- facturer of Broad cloth, at Guadalajara and Brihuega j Chin:., at the palace of the Buen Retiro ; Cards, at Madrid and Malaga 5 Glafs, at S. Ildefon fo y Paper, in Segovia -, Pottery, at Talavera ; Salt Petre, Madrid, and various other places ; Stockings, at Valdemoro j Swords, at Toledo ; Tapeftry, at Madrid > Tiflue, at Talavara. He has the monopoly of brandy, cards, gun-powder, lead, quick filver, fealing wax, falts, fulphur, and tobacco. 14th, To this may be added, as a caufe df depopulation, the national prejudice againfl trade. Whilft the Jews were merchants, and the mechanic arts were left, either to the Moors, or to the vileft of the people, the grandees pr knights were ambitious only [ *4* J Only of military fame. After the eonquefl of Granada, the Moors continued to be the principal manufacturers, and excelled in the cultivation of their lands. When thefe, with the Jews, were baniihed, a void was left, which the high-fpirited Spaniard was not inclined to fill. Trained for many cen- turies to the excrcife of arms, and regarding fuch mean occupations with difdain, his averfion was increafed by his hatred and contempt for thofe, whom he had been ac- cuftomed to fee engaged in thefe employ- ments. He had been early taught to con- fider trade as difhonourable j and whether he frequented the theatre, or liftened to the difcourfes of the pulpit orators, he could not fail to be confirmed in his ideas. Even in the prefent day, many, who boaft their defcent from noble anceftors, had rather fbrve than work, more efpecially at thofe trades by which, according to the laws, they would be degraded, and forfeit their nobility. We rauft not imagine that the Spaniards are naturally indolent; they are remark- able for activity, capable of ftrenuous exer- tions, and patient of fatigue : if, therefore, Vol, II. R unemployed, [ 242 ] unemployed, this mull be attributed to other caufes, of which, refpecting fome occupations, national prejudice is one. 15th, Among the defolating caufes, I mufl be allowed to mention one, on the tes- timony of a native Spaniard, becaufe I never had occaiion to obferve the leafl trace of it myfelf. It is acknowledged by count Cam- pomanes, that the national prejudice was a- gainjl, the fettlement of foreigners in Spain. A. D. 1623, Grangers were allowed to be naturalized, and either to take farms or to practife their mechanic arts, provided they fettled at the diitance of twenty leagues from the fea coafl \ but as few, if any Gran- gers availed themielves of this indulgence, his prefent majefly, in the year 1772, ex- tended this privilege to merchants, per- mitting them to be eilablimed in any of the ports. Certain it is, that, for want of in- tercouri'e with other nations, the native Spaniards, being chiefly refident at home, excepting thofe who migrate to America, and few Grangers even pairing through the country \ all the arts, fciences, and manu- factures have been at a ftand, and appear to be at leafl a century behind the reft, of Europe, t H3 ] Europe. In the year 1655, don Francifco Martinez de Mata, an author of high re- putation, in his feventh difcourfe on the depopulation of Spain, complained, that a hundred and twenty thoufand Grangers, working cheaper, and apparently better, than the natives, were allowed to fpread over the country j entering it poor, but by their diligence acquiring wealth, and re- turning home loaded with gold. He aflerts, that they carried out with them annually more than eight hundred thoufand pounds, or feven million three hundred and twenty thoufand ducats ; but he forgets to men- tion, that thefe men only filled up the va- cancy recently made by the expniiion of the Moors, and followed the occupations to which the high bred Spaniard would not fubmit. He recommends giving alms to ftrangers, but not employment; and, to confirm his advice, relates the hiftory of a Spaniih farrier, as an example to be fol- lowed. This man went to Paris, with a view to work at his trade, but being threat- ened with death, mould he there venture to exercife his art, he retired to Bourdeaux, where he hoped to find a more hofpitable R 2 reception -, [ 2 44 I reception ; but there they cut off one aixriy that he might no longer work, and rob the native farrier of bread. (Camp. E. P. A. 4..- p. 184.) 1 6th, Perfecution is a powerful caufe of depopulation ; and, like the national preju- dice againfl Grangers, prevents many ufeful fubjects from being added to the flate. It were endlefs to enumerate the advantages a community derives from toleration. As without an eflabliihed religion the poor would be neglected, and, in the villages at lead, would be in danger of lofmg all knowledge of a deity ; fo, without a tolera- tion, there could be no competition, and therefore little fcope for emulation, without which zeal would be apt to languiih, mo- rals to decay; and thus in procefs of time, the moil important truths would, by tjxe many, be totally forgotten. The good biihop of Oviedo, lamenting over the manners of the age, comforted himfelf at kfl under a perfualion, that, through the activity and zeal of the inqui- fitors, they had no infidels in Spain. For my part, I am psrfuaded, that the torpid infidelity of ignorance prevails more in Spain, t 245 ] Spain, than the active infidelity of fcic-nce in either England or France. All the enlightened nations of Europe have at laft difcovered the folly of perfecu- tion, and feem to be perfuaded, that the refort of ftrangers, with their wealth, their knowledge, their induftry, and arts, will bear proportion to the extent of toleration. It is now generally felt, that thefe contri- bute to enrich, and, by the increafe of peo- ole, to make mofr. powerful the country, in which the citizens, without diftinction, enjoy moft civil and religious liberty. 17th, The gold andjiher of America y in- ftead of animating the country and pro- moting induftry, inftead of giving life and vigour to the whole community, by the increafe of arts, of manufactures, and of commerce, had an oppofite effect, and pro- duced in the event, weaknefs, poverty, and depopulation. The wealth which proceeds from induftry refembles the copious yet tranquil ftream, which, pafling filent and almoft invifible, enriches the whole ex- tent of country through which it flows : but the treafures of the new world, like a ^veiling torrent, were feen, were heard, R 3 were [ 246 ] were felt, and were admired ; yet their firft operation was to defolate and lay wafte the fpot on which they fell. The fhock was fudden ; the contrail was too great. Spain overflowed with fpecie, whilft other na- tions were comparatively poor in the ex- treme. The price of labour, of provifions, and of manufactures bore proportion to the quantity of circulating caili. The con- fequence is obvious : in the poorer coun- tries induftry advanced, in the more wealthy it declined; in the more wealthy all the manufactures went to ruin and de- cay, every thing was imported from abroad, and, till the beginning of the prefent cen- tury, Spain purchafed all her men of war, with maris and cordage, from Holland, rig r ging from France, ammunition from Eng- land, and even her gallies from the Genoefe. V. Martinez de Mata, Difcurfo 8. Combined with all the forementioned caufes of depopulation, this became more fatal to the profperity of Spain than it would have been, had circumilances been more propitious. Had the country been populous and well governed, had peace been cultivated, and had the manufactures. flourimed, t 2 47 1 fiourifhed, had the convents been recently deflroyed, and the feftivals aboliihed, had emigration ceafed, and had Grangers report- ed to fettle in the country with their indus- try and arts ; this wealth would have given new vigour to the nation. But, inftead of this benign effect, numerous convents were endowed, the drones were multiplied, and this fudden repletion produced a torpor, ending in a political difeafe, fimilar to that which, in like circumftances, affects the human frame. Even in the prefent day, fpecie being about fix per cent, lefs valuable in Spain than it is in other nations, operates precifely in the fame proportion againft her manufactures and her population. 1 8th, Among the caufes of depopulation count Campomanes reckons corporatio?js with cxclufive privileges, checking the in- duftrious, and retraining them from the exercife of thofe mechanic arts for which they are qualified, and to which they feel themfelves inclined, and eftabliihing mo- nopolies, to the prejudice of the commu- nity. In Spain thefe are certainly injurious to a degree fcarcely to be conceived by thofe R 4 who t 248 ] who have not been witneffes to fimilar abufes. In all the trading companies or gremios, religious fraternities are formed, fome incorporated by royal authority and letters patent, others by connivance of the crown* but both in violation of the laws. Every fraternity is governed by a mayor and court of aldermen, who make laws, fit in judgment on offenders, and claim in many cafes exemption from the common tribunals of the country. None but the members of thefe communities may exer- cife mechanic arts, or be concerned in trade; and to be admitted as a member is both attended with a heavy fine, and entails upon each individual a conftant annual ex- pence. This, however, is not the greater! evil, for the mayor and officers, during their year of fervice, not only neglect their own affairs, but from vanity and orientation run into expences, fuch as either ruin their families, or at leaft flraiten them exceedingly in trade. Thefe corporations, being eftablifhed in the cities, banim, Ipy their oppreffive laws, all the mechanic arts from towns and vil- § lages. '[ 249 1 lages. In the cities like wife they tend only to monopoly, by limiting the numbers in every branch of bufinefs, and fixing within unreafonable bounds the rcfidence of thofe who are concerned in trade. This they do either by affigaihg the diftanee between mop and ihop, under pretence that two mops vending the fame commodities mufl not be fo near together as to interfere, pr by anembiing all the mechanics of the fame profeffion, fuch as filverfmiths, and confin- ing them to one ftreet or quarter of the city, under the plaufible pretext that thus the proper magiilrate may with eafe pay attention to their work, and fee that the due flandard be obferved. In many cafes the various gremios bear hard upon each other. Thus, for inflance, the carpenter mufl not employ his induftry on mahogany, or any other wood but deal, nor mufl he invade the province of the turner. The turner mufl confine his inge- nuity and labour to foft wood, and mufl not prefume to touch either ivory or metals, even though he mould be reduced to po^- verty for want of work. The wheeler, in fimilar diftrefs, mufl not, however qualified, extend [ 2 5 ] extend his operations beyond the appointed bounds, fo as to encroach on the bufinefs of the coachmaker, who is equally reftrained from either making or mending either cart or waggon wheels. The barber may (have, draw teeth, and bleed, but he muft not fill up his leifure time with making wigs. As mechanics are obliged to keep exactly each to his feveral line, fo muft fhopkeepers con- fine themfelves to their proper articles in trade, and under no pretence muft the ma- nufacturer prefume to open magazines, that he may fell by retail. But neither are thefe abufes the only evils which call for reformation. Many corporations have been impertinently med- dling, and have abfurdly bound the hands of the manufacturer by regulations with re- fpedt to the conduct of his bufinefs, and the productions of his art, fuch as being too rigidly obferved would preclude all im- provements, and would be deftructive to his trade, by giving to foreigners a manifeft advantage in favour of their merchan- dize. The incorporated fraternities in the king- doms of Caftille and Arragon are 25,581, and [ 2 5 l ] and their corporate expences amount to 11,687,861 reals. Their revenue is not altogether confumed in feafting, nor in fa- laries to officers, nor in penfions to their widows, ncr yet in law fuits, which are faid to be both numerous and expenfive ; but confiderable fums are expended for religious purpofes, in procuring maffe's to be faid, either for departed fpirits, and the fouls in purgatory, or for the benefit of the frater- nity in which each individual has a- propor- tionable intereft. For this reafon, thefe communities enjoy the protection of the ecclefiaft.ical courts, to which, in cafes of necefiity, they frequently appeal. The chartered corporations claim their exclufive privileges by royal grant, and on this plea they refill: a reformation, not con- sidering, as count Campomanes with pro- priety remarks, the effential condition of thefe grants, Sin perjuicio de tercero, or that nothing therein contained lhall be to the prejudice of others, or injurious to the citi- zens at large. 19th, Similar to the former in operation, as checking manufactures, and thereby di- miniihingthe population of a country, may be f 252 ] be reckoned fumptuary laws. It is Baron Montefquieu who applies this remark to Spain, and facts certainly vindicate his ob- servation ; for had their drefs been left to the whim and the caprice of the inhabi- tants, the more delicate manufactures, now loft, would, by the certainty of a ready market, have been retained among them, 20th, Had all Europe continued upon one level; the above ftated caufes of depo- pulation had not been fo feverely felt in Spain. But, unhappily for her, thefe were rendered more deftructive by the riling in- dustry, and confequent profperity, of rival nations, in which convents were left emp- ty, numerous festivals aboliihed, to which ftrangers might refort, where property had been long lince more equally divided, and where new learnt commerce led to wealth and power. Thefe nations, in proportion as civil, religious, and commercial liberty advanced, grew into greatnefs ; and, like the fpreading oak carting a made on the more weakly faplings, did not fufFer them to rife. Suppofing all nations to be equally well governed, to enjoy the fame degree of civil, i *S3 1 t-ivil, religious, and commercial liberty; the wealth and profperity of one will extend to ail. But mould one nation continue free, in the full porTcmon of public confidence and public credit, whilft another is govern- ed by defpotic iway, fubject to the capri- cious will of a weak prince, or of a wicked minifter, and therefore deftitute of public confidence and public credit ; the former will increafe in wealth and power, the lat- ter will decay, and freemen will give law to flaves. With fo many fubfifting caufes of depo- pulation in vain did Philip IV. A. D. 1623, by a fpecial edict, offer a premium for mar- riage. In vain did he grant all the privi- leges of nobility t© be enjoyed for four years to all new married men ; in vain did he de- prive the nobles of their privileges if un- married at the age of twenty-five; and in vain did he offer all the exemptions of nobi- lity for life to the fathers of fix children : but mould the people take advantage of the prefent crilis to banifh the inquifitors, and to ailert their freedom ; mould they, happy in poflefiing one of the richeft countries upon earth, contract the bounds of their unwielc^y f 2 54 ] unwieldy empire ; mould they confine their views within the limits of their own penin- fula, and cultivate the arts of peace ; mould they, to cheriSh industry, abolifh the rnonaf- tic orders, leSTen the number of their festi- vals, eStabliSh an agrarian law, and Strike off the fetters, by which their commerce has been bound ; considering the foil, the cli- mate, the abundance of water, the natural productions, the rivers, the harbours, and the local Situation, we mav venture to af- firm, that no country, of the fame extent, would be more populous, more wealthy, or more powerful, than Spain. Let her for ever keep her true interest in view, and all Europe muit rejoice in her proiperity. Before I turn my back upon Madrid, I muft briefly defcribe the ministers of State, and fome principal characters about the court, previously noticing the change in the constitution of their government. It is well known that the government was feodal I that Spain enjoyed the protec- tion of its cortes ; and that the power of the monarch was circumfcribed by laws. At prefent, no fovereign can be more de- fpotic. [ z$5 ] fpotic. The tranfition forms a molV inte- rcfling epoch in their hiftory, but fuch as would -require more time in its develope- ment, than a traveller can beftow. When- ever I fhall have an opportunity to refume this fubject, I mall endeavour to mew, that Spain, like all other countries which have loft their liberty, was ruined fry the inor- dinate ambition, and by the unjuft preten- fions of the great. Whilft labouring to curb the monarch, and to deprefs the pea- pie, they themfelves have funk, have loft their power, and are become perfect cy- phers, aifembled round the fovereign like prifoners, or at heft, like fervants, and not like pillars to fupport his throne. Should, however, this change in the con>- ititution of their government ultimately lead them to a more perfect fyfbem, it will have been productive of much good to the community; becaufe, during the feodal ages, the fupreme authority was not regulated by confident and reafonable principles. The country for many centuries was divided and fubdivided into numerous kingdoms, fome making profeffion of chriftianity, others devoted to the doctrines and precepts of the koran. x t 356 ] koran. The fubjects of the latter, that h of the Mahometan princes, long accuftomed to defnotic fvvav, had neither inclination nor ability to afTert their freedom ; thofe of the former, or rather their military chiefs, wholly unacquainted v/ith the fundamental principles of government, could never be reconciled to a due fubordination in obedi- ence to equitable laws. Thofe haughty nobles, the rude defcendants of the Goths and Vandals, whilfr. they oppreffed their vaflals, fpurned at the idea of fabjeclion, and not only, like independent princes, made war upon each other, but, whenever they conceived themfelves aggrieved, even by the fovereign, they threatened him with violence. As among the Gothic tribes any adven- turous leader was under obligation to con* fult his officers, who followed his fbmdard, not from neceility, but from inclination and opinion ; fo, when making conquefts by their valour for himfelf and them, he arrived at empire, and they became his Ka- rons, he (til! continued to afk their advice on all emergencies, more efpecially in what- ever related to either peace or war. But when [ 257 } when he wanted a pecuniary aid, he ap- plied, as was natural, to his commercial cities, inviting them to fend their deputies* who might affemble with the barons, af- lifted by the officers of his court, to delibe- rate on the expediency of fuch meafures, as fhould be recommended to their coniidera- tion. Thus we take notice of the commons, for the firft time, in the cortes of Arragon, A. D. 1 133, and of Catalonia, A. D. 1283, introduced for the purpofe of voting the fupplies. As for the ecchjiafiics, it was not, at leafl in Arragon, till the commencement of the fourteenth century, that they were iummoned Lo attend the cortes. Thefe were the three orders, which in Cajlille compofed the great council of the kinedom. The firft branch confided of the grandees, the titular nobility, and thofe among the cavaliers, who could claim this diilinclion in right of their progenitors. The archbifhops and bimops compofed the fecond clafs; and deputies from the com- mons occupied the third. The latter came as reprefentatives from the kingdoms of Burgos, Leon, Granada, Seville, Cordova, Murcia, Jaen, and Toledo ; from the cities Vol. II. S of [ 25 3 ] of Valladolid, Segovia, Salamanca, Avila, Toro, Zamora, Cuenca, Soria, and Guada- lajara -, from the village of Madrid j and in latter times from Galicia, under the deno- mination of a city. When the cortes were affembled, the king, fitting under the canopy of ftate, af- Jiited by the fupreme council of Caftille, acquainted them with the reafon of his calling them together, ftating the various matters which were to be the fubjects of difcuflion. One of the deputies from Bur- gos, as prolocutor, anfwered, that they were difpofed to ferve his majefly, and begged leave to alTemble with the prehdent of his council, that they might confer together on the propositions, which were fubmitted to their judgment. The chambers then pro- ceeded to confider feparately what anfwer it would be proper to return, and after mature deliberation, when they had com- municated to each other their refpective refolutions, they tranfmitted their final de*- termination to the king. The commons at the fame time made known their griev- ances, and fought redrefs ; in confequence of which the king made fuch provisions as [ 259 ] as prudence dictated and the exigency of the times required. In Arragotiy befide the rtcos hombres, or the nobles, the ecclefiaftics and the com- mons, the cavaliers or hidalgos conftituted a fourth order in the cortes. This afTem- bly of the eftates appears to have been more numerous than the cortes of Caftille. Befide the archbiihop of Zaragoza, and the bifhops of the kingdom, many abbots and priors claimed a right to be confulted; and to the chamber of the commons nine and twenty cities, communities, and towns fent deputies. Thefe were the cities of Zaraeoza, Huefca, Tarazona, Taca, Bar- baftro, Calataynd, Daroca, Teruel, Borja, Albarracin; the town of Alcaniz ; the com- munities of Calataynd, Daroca, and Ternel; and the towns of Fraga, Montalvan, Mon- zon, Sariiiena, S. Efteban de Litera, Tama- rite, Magallon, Bolea, Alquezar, Ainfa, Loharre, Mofqueruela, Murillo, Berbegal, Almudevar, Alagon, and Canfranc. But the deputies from Exea, Taufte, Uncaftillo, Sos, and Sadava took their feats with the hidalgos. Thefe eftates, convoked by the royal S 2 mandate, t 260 ] mandate, continued their feffion only forty days, after which the affembly was of courfe diffolved ; but in the intermediate fpace, the cortes were equally diffolved if the fovereign abfented himfelf without having prorogued them. When affembled, the archbimop of Zaragoza, as prefiderit, addreffed the throne, a/Turing his majefty of their fidelity, and that after mature delibe- ration they mould come to fuch refol'utions, zs would be moft conducive to the fervice of God, of the king, and of his king- dom. They made laws, granted fupplies, and gave their fanclion to either war or peace. In Catalonia, as in Cailille, the cortes was compofed of three ejlates, or, as the Spaniards call them, anns. The eccleilarli- cal arm confifled of the archbimop of Tar- ragona, prefident, eight bimops, twenty- two mitred abbots, nine fyndics from the cathedrals of the province, with the grand prior and caftellain of Ampofta. The mi- litary arm included the duke of Cardona, prefident, all the counts, vifcounts, barons, titular nobility, and cavaliers of the firft qua- lity. Syndics or reprefentatives from,Barce- lona, [ 26l ] lona, Gerona, Lerida, Tortofa, Cefvera, Balaguer, and from twenty-four royal bo- roughs, conftituted the third ejlate, or, as it is called, the royal arm. Brazo real. In Navarre, the cortes bore refqmblance to the former. It appears, by the 5th article in the re- quiftfions of the Santa Junta, that the reign- ing monarchs, ever watchful to extend the bounds of their prerogatives, and to advance their power, had, by places and penfions judicioufly beftowed, maintained a corrupt influence in the popular ailembly; for, as we have already feen, when giving a de- fcription of Toledo, the Junta inn fled that the reprefentatives of the commons mould be paid by their conflituents and receive neither place nor penfion from the crown. Yet, notwithstanding all that could be offered to the avarice or to the ambition of the members, the cortes, ever troublefome in reprefenting grievances, and difficult to manage, occafioned fuch embarraffment to the kings, and to their minifters, that, not defirous of liftening to complaints, they were tardy in their application to this un- traceable aiTembly, and never but from ab- S 3 folute [ 262 ] folute neceffity iffued a proclamation for calling thern together. Charles V. in whofe perfon the two crowns of Caftille and Arragon were firfl united, had been readily acknowledged by the cortes of both kingdoms, and the for- mer had given him money, but the latter had refufed a grant, till their grievances mould be redrerTed. The cortes of Cata- lonia had followed their example. This refiftance iffued in a civil war, and among the leading proportions for reftoring peace it was demanded, that the cortes mould af- femble once in three years to confult on public affairs. For this they fought ; but their army being defeated, and at length difperfed (A. D. 1522.) no attention was paid to their demand, and the cortes were never permitted to aflemble, excepting when the treafury was exhaufted, and wanted frefh fupplies. But although deprerTed, the fpirit of the cortes continued unfubdued. They infifted, according to their ancient privilege, firft to examine grievances, and then to grant fup- plies. Charles intreated them not to lofe their time in needlefs debates, when they mould 3, te t 263 ] be voting money, and folemnly protefted, that he would not refufe them any thing, which in reafon they could afk, provided they would firlr. comply with his requefl. In confequence of this engagement on his part, they indifcreetly voted four millions of ducats, a fum nearly equal to half a mil- lion of our money, to be paid in three years; after which he fpeedily difmiiTed them. That was the mortal blow to their au- thority, and from that time to their final difTolution, A. D. 1647, the cortes may be regarded as an appendage only of the trea- fury. If in any future period light mould pene- trate and be diffufed in Spain, we may ven- ture to predict, that the people will have neither patience nor inclination to confult the mufty records of the cortes, in order to difcover what are their rights, and what the degree of freedom they may juftly claim. But, mould they take a retrofpec- tive view, they will look beyond the feodal ages, and find their claims, not in royal grants and charters, but in the tacit agree- ment between the ruler and the ruled, S 4 when, [ 264 ] when, for the good of the community, civil politics were formed. The reigning monarch, Charles III. has never been confidered as a man of more than common abilities ; but all who know him, admire the goodnefs of his heart ■> and indeed it is impomble to look at him with- out reading diftincUy the characters of be- nevolence and truth. As a man of princi- ple, he efteems it his firil duty to promote the happinefs of the nation, over which he reigns -, and if at any time his conduct hath been inconfiftent with his principles ; if he hath contracted unnatural alliances, with- out either the plea of neceffity or profpect of advantage. ; if, in defence of a relation, he hath haftily engaged in war ; it hath been always from goodnefs of heart, and from the influence of gratitude, that he hath erred. In choofing his minifters he confults only the good of his people ; and it mull be confefled, that commonly he is well directed in his choice. His prefent minifter, count Florida Blanca, is a man of fmgular abilities, of upright intentions, and of indefatigable in- dustry. His father was Efcrivano Epifccpal § in [ 2«5 ] in Murcia. He himfelf, early in life, was taken into the houfe of Benevente, as ad- vocate to the duke of Arcos, under whofe patronage he became iifcal, or one of the judges of Cailille. In this employ he made himfelf confpicuous, by feconding the views of count d'Aranda for the expuliion of the jefuits, and by quieting the tumults which, upon that occaiion, the bifhop of Cuenca, a prelate exceedingly attached to thofe in- triguing fathers, had excited. After their expuliion, he was fent as ambaMador to Rome, where he acquired much reputation, by obtaining the fanclion of the pope to mea- fures, which, in the eyeni, have proved moffc fatal to the papal power. From Rome he was called by his fovereign to direct his councils, whilit the marquis of Grimaldi, who had been minifter, was ordered to re- place him at the holy fee; and count d'Aranda, who, as preiident of the council and captain general of 'Caflille, had been omnipotent, after having rendered the moft important fervices to his country, was fent ambaflador to Paris. The new minifter was not unmindful of his friends. Upon all occafions he has fhewn [ zo6 ] iliewn a marked attention to the houfe of Benevente, and has proved, that he retains a grateful remembrance of the protection received at his firft entrance into life. Whilft at Cuenca, he ,had lodged in the houfe of don Pedro de Lerena, one of thofe favourites of fortune, who, without natural pretentions, with little exertion, and lefs merit, are raifed to the highefh ftations, and to the enjoyment of every comfort that wealth can purchafe : Quales ex humili magna ad faftigla rerun* Extollit, quoties voluit fortuna jocari. Juvenal, Don Pedro de Lerena, fon to a miferable publican at Valdemoro, was bound appren- tice to a blackfmith, who lived oppoiite to his father's houfe. In a lucky hour he married a rich widow of Cuenca, and, by the intereft of her family, became fome little official in that city. Here he had the good fortune to receive under his roof Moriino, now count Florida Blanca, and to iecure a place in his good opinion. When the count took the reins of government, he was not unmindful of his friend, but embraced the earlieft opportunity of ferv- ing [ *Z7 ] ing him. Under fuch a powerful patron, Lerena became agent to the army in Mi- norca, and, after the capture of that ifland, went with the duke of Crillon to Gibral- tar in the fame capacity, and at the termi- nation of the war, he became intendant of Andalufia, and affiftant of Seville. Whilft he continued in that employment, he pro- cured, after the cuftom of his country, certificates of his good conduct from all kinds of bodies, civil, military, and eccle- fiaftical, and from individuals of eminence, all which, being fubmitted to the infpec- tion of the king, procured him, on the death of don Miguel de Mufquiz, the ap- pointment to the high and important offices of the finance and war. The family of the Gafoez, equally for- tunate, were all men of fuperior talents. Don Jofeph de Galvez, marquis of Sonora, and minifter of the Indies, was of a mean family, near Malaga, in the fouth of Spain, but, by his great abilities, he raifed himfelf and his relations to the higheft honours of the ftate. His two brothers drove boricos, and were called Tio, an appellation anfwer- ing to uncle, or to gaffer ; yet one of them became t 268 j became viceroy of Mexico, and, at his death, was fucceeded in the fame regal of- fice by his fon. Don Antonio Values, the prefent minifter of the marine, Pcands indebted to his merit for his high ftation. As a captain of the navy, and as a commodore, he was diftin- guifhed; and how much the nation is in- debted to his lingular abilities, and more than common application, will appear, when, in defcribing Cadiz, I mall give a fbtement of the marine, and fhew the increafing power of the Spanim navy. Till I had been at the fea-ports, I could form no idea of his fupe- rior talents, and therefore profited little by his condefcending permimon to approach him. I can only now lament that I did not fpend more time in his fociety. Of Count Campomanes I have already fpoken. All who have the honour of be- ing near to him, admire the boundlefs ex- tent of his abilities, which embrace every fcience ; and the goodnefs of his heart, which turns all his knowledge towards one object — the profperity of his country. He mines in all the feveral branches; but his peculiar excellence is in lav/, hiftory, and political [ *6 9 ] political (Economy. He is wholly indebted to himfelf, and to the voice of the nation, for his elevation. It muft be finking to an Englishman to fee all the moft important offices occupied by men, who have been taken from the lower ranks, and not to find among them one man of fafhion, not one grandee of Spain. Thefe are all precifeiy where they ought to be: lords of the bed-chamber, grooms of the Stole, matters of the horfe, all near the throne, partaking of its fplen- dor, whilft the drudgery and refponfibility of office is left to others, who are better qualified to bear that burden. In Eng- land it is far otherwife : our men of fafhion, from their infancy, are trained to high pur- fuits ; at fchool they learn ambition, and when they come into the houfe of com- mons, they fee, that to be difUnguifhed for application and for knowledge is the only way to gain confideration, and to arrive at power. This proves fuch a fpur to dili- gence, that, in fpite of their hereditary wealth and honours, many of the greater! men, and the moil able minifters, are to be found among our principal nobility. In [ 2 7 ] In Spain, on the contrary, in the higher ranks, all is torpid. Satisfied with heredi- tary wealth and honours, the grandees fink into mere fenfualifts, and are loft. Nay, fuch is the general neglect of education, that the principal minifters find it difficult to procure proper men to fill the common offices. When my friend, don Eugenio Izquierdo, returned from Paris, where he had been educated for the royal cabinet of natural hiflory, of which he was appointed di- rector on the death of Davila ; he was de- fired immediately to make out a catalogue, in order to convince the world, that Spain was not behind other nations in this inte- refling branch of fcience, and that he might amfr. to wipe away the reproach, which M. MafTon had caft upon the na- tion. He was revolving this commiffion in his mind, but ere he could begin the previous arrangement of the cabinet, he was hurried away to teach the art of dying, and to fuperintend the cloth manufacture at Guadalajara, where all was in confufion, and where every branch required a reform. According to the maxim of no con- temptible { 2 7 I ] teniptible philofopher, a wife man is every thing, either an humble mechanic, or a minifter of ftate ; and certainly, with time, he may be qualified for either. But how- ever qualified my friend might be for this new employment, he could not mew him- felf at Guadalajara without danger; for the moment he appeared, he found himfelf in a nefl of hornets. All who had been accuftomed to eat the bread of idlenefs, to receive their falaries, and to neglect their work, or to (hare among themfelves the plunder of the fitate, became his enemies, and, as I underfland, never left him, till by their perfecution, at the end of two years, they had compelled him to retire. His friend Angulo, trained by him at Paris for the branch of natural hiftory, whofe ambition it was to be vice-director of the cabinet, no fooner returned to court, than he was appointed chemical profeiibr, and received orders to prepare for giving a courfe of lectures the cnfuing winter. Afto- niihed at this command, he inquired for the elaboratory and the apparatus. He was . told, that the foundation of the former /hould be inftantly laid, and that he himfelf mud [272] mud give orders for the latter. But before he had time to look about him, he was fent by the minifler of the finance to fuperih- tend the working of a lead mine at Li- nares. My friend acquitted himfelf to the fatisfaction of the minifler, and was ap- pointed director general of all the mines in Spain. In this capacity he was fent to Riotinto, where I engaged to follow him, but when I came near the place, I found he had been difpatched to another part of the kingdom, to infpect a mine fuppofed to be of cinnabar. Samples of this ore had been fent to the minifler of the finance, with the quickfilver extra died from it, which was in abundance ; and the mofl flattering hopes were entertained at Madrid of the wealth to be obtained from this new difcovery. But, unfortunately,' the whole was a deception ; and my friend, mortified at firfl at not being able to detect a fingle particle of mercury, was at lafl fo happy as to extort a confeffion from the importer, of the means made ufe of to deceive the minifler, under the expectation of being appointed manager of this rich mine, Don Joleph Clavijo had been manager of the t 273 ] the king's theatre; but when a proper perfon was wanted to conduct one of the public prints, he was appointed to that office, and, being a man of letters, he acquitted him- felf to the fatisfaction of the court. On the death of M. Davila, when don Euge- nio Izquierdo became the principal director of the cabinet, and a proper perfon, as vice director, was wanted to fucceed him, the minifter of finance fixed on my friend Cla- vijo, and will, I am perfuaded, find in him, that a wife man is every thing. This gen- tleman hath already translated the works of the count de Burton ; and, mould he be left quietly in his department, from his abilities and his application, it may be hoped, that he will make a rapid progrefs in the fcience of natural hiftory. Yet, fuch is the fcarcity of able men, that, in all probability, M. Clavijo will foon receive fome new commiflion. During my winter's refidence at Madrid, I cultivated the acquaintance of colonel Nodin, an Italian officer in the Spaniih fervice, diftinguimed for his proficiency in algebra. This gentleman was fo happy as to attract the notice of the minifter, and Vol. II. T received [274 ] received a commiflion to perfect the navi- gation at Tortofa, where almoft infuperable difficulties occurred. He was preparing to fet out, when I left Madrid with the pleaf- ing expectation of meeting him. at the place of his destination ; but on my arrival, I found that he had been fent into the north of Spain, to make a road, where the minifter of finance conceived that algebrai- cal calculations might be ufeful. It would be inexcufeable in fpeaking, even in the moft tranfient manner of men, who are diftinguifhed in Madrid as em- ployed about the court, not to mention the two brothers Yriarte, who, for tafte, for judgment, and for fcience, have few fupe- riors in the moil enlightened countries. Don Bernardo has fome place in the fin- ance, but his brother is the man of let- ters. There was a time when the apothecary, don Calimiro Gomez Ortega, was the only perfon qualified to teach either botany, chemiftry, mineralogy, or natural hiftory; but he has lived to fee many competitors for fame, not excepting his favourite fci- ence, in which he moft excels. Don I *7S ] Don Antonio Solano, profefTor of experw mehtal philofophy, merits attention for the clearnefs and precifion of his demonftra- tions ; but, unfortunately, although his lec- tures are delivered gratis, fuch is the want of tafte for fcience in Madrid, that nobody- attends them. Gratitude, as well as the higher!: venera- tion, requires that I mould mention don Francifco Bayer, nrft. librarian to his ma- jefty, and late preceptor to the infant don Gabriel, a prince who {lands high in the republic of letters, for his elegant transla- tion of Sallufl j in this work we evidently fee the mailer's hand, but the pupil is faid to deferve his lliare of praife. The laft perfon I mall mention, who is diftinguimed for his talents, although not the lead deferving of commendation, is Juan Bautifta Munoz, hiftoriographer to the king, with fpecial commiflion to write the conqueit. of America. This gentle- man honoured me with his friendship, and fuffered me to examine freely all his manu- fcripts. He was feven years collecting his materials, and, for that purpofe, vifited every part of Spain, where the families and T 2 defcendants { 27 6 1 descendants of the firft adventurers reSicta, or where any public records are preferved. His collections are voluminous, and, I have no doubt, will be given to the world with the impartiality becoming an historian, and with that degree of elegance, which may be well expected from an author of his fupe- rior talents. He is a man o£ a clear head, a good claffical Scholar, and perfectly ac- quainted with the characteriflic excellence of thole, either in Greece or Rome, who have been moil: admired for hiflorical com- pofition. From him, therefore, not merely Something new, but Something highly in- tere fling, may be expected, and- Such as I may venture to Say will vindicate the natio- nal character from the charge of cruelty, with which it has been fiained, and leave the reproach, where we might naturally look for it, in the rapacity of undisciplined and deSperate adventurers. Had Dr, RobertSon, or had his Sriend Mr. Waddilove, known where to look for records, and fpent fcvtn years in making the collection, his work had been much more worthy of the public eye. He has, however, Seized ths ground, and when thefe [ *77 1 thefe new materials fhall appear, he will employ them to advantage; and, both by his arrangement, and by the peculiar graces of his ftile, confirm the reputation his former writings have acquired for him; aad, if we may be allowed the expreflion, put the laft fini£h to the temple of his fame. When I was about to leave Madrid, I addrefled myfelf to my old friend Canofa, and, in a laughing way, defired that he would procure me letters of recommenda- tion for the fouthern provinces. He at once promifed that I mould have them ; but, not fatisfied with this mode of application, I delired Mr. Liflon to beg from count Flo- rida Blanca a letter for Murcia, the place of his nativity. The count obligingly inquir- ed, what route I meant to take ? and, in a few days, fent me letters to all the gover- nors of provinces, and to fome principal perfqn in every city, through which I was to pafs. Nothing then remained, but to form a party, and to hire a carriage for the jour-r ney. In the mean time I procured proper paff- T 3 ports, [ 278 ] ports, one from the minifter, another from count Campomanes, and a third from my valuable friend Efcarano. The firft was for the fake of form ; but the two latter might be of the moil effential fervice, and were actually ufeful to me on feveral occa- fions. I like wife got myfelf introduced to the inquifitor-general, not merely to fatisfy a natural curiofity, but that, in cafe I mould ftand in need of his prote&ion, my name might not be altogether unknown to him. Having adjufted all matters for my jour- ney, previous to my departure, I enquired into the prices of provifions at Madrid, and found them to be as follow : Bread, 6f quarts per pound of 16 ounces - } Beef, - 1 4 ditto ditto ; Mutton, 15 ditto ditto. •A quart is 44 of a penny, or a fmall fraction more than a farthing. Eight quarts are equal to 2l pence Englifh. JOURNEY JOURNEY FROM MADRID to SEVILLE, 15th February, 17S7. WHEN the day for our departure was arrived, we entered our cache de colleras, drawn by kvzn mules, and, paffing through Valdemoro, came to Aran- juez in the evening. At Valdemoro, a town containing one thoufand nine hundred and thirty -eight fouls, with two convents, we found a royal manufactory of ftockings, lately eftabliiTied by the minifter of finance, to honour the place of his nativity. The frames are about one hundred, not all as yet employed. The ftockings are very weak, and badly woven ; T 4 the f 280 ] the worfted is only of two threads, and not well fpun. In this manufacture, a good hand will earn twelve reals, or about zs. \\d. per day. As the country was not new to me, my attention was chiefly occupied in reading my companions. With one of them, M. Seguier, a French captain in the Spanifh Service, I was well acquainted, having met him often at the dukes de la Vauguion and Berwick. The two others were Colonel Davila, a native Spaniard, lately from Mexi- co, and a naval officer ; the former going to Malaga, the latter to Cadiz. As thefe gen- tlemen had often travelled the fame road, they knew where to lay in provifions, and where to procure good wine; confequently we wanted nothing, that money could pro- cure. The inn at Aranjuez is upon a large fcale, making forty-four teds, all very clean and comfortable. It is royal property, and the king receives from it a rent of fifty-four thoufand reals, or JT. 540 per annum. The next day we palled through Ocana, a confiderable city, two leagues from Aran- juez, and nine .from Madrid. It compre- hends hends four pariilies, containing four thou- fand eight hundred and eighty-fix fouls, and fupports ten convents. As it was too early to think of reft, we proceeded four leagues further, to La Guardia -, and although it is not the ufual ftage, we found good accom- modations. All the way from Madrid, the country is tolerably level ; the foil is fandy; the rock is gypfum; the produce chiefly corn, with fome vines and olives. Here, in the famous country of La Mancha, we natu- rally looked out for wind-mills, which, as they have no flreams to grind their corn, we faw, as we expected, in the vicinity of every village. They have no oxen ; and nothing but mules, or affes, are ufed for all the purpofes of husbandry. La Guardia was formerly a place of frrength, and was long defended by the Moors , but now it appears to be verging to decay. It reckons Hill about one thou- fand families, confifting, according to the returns to government, of three thoufand three hundred and forty-four perfons ; but, in fact, they have more than three thoufand who receive the facrament, and about eight hundred children under the communicating age. [ 282 ] age. They have no manufacture except Salt- petre, and that is not confiderable : hence their poverty and wretchednefs. Their lands are divided into fmall allotments, but the chief proprietor is Don Diego de Plata. The rents are paid in corn. The church is a very handfome well*- proportioned building; the altars moftly new, and limple. In one chapel are many good pictures by Angelus Nardi. They have no beef. Mutton is twelve quarts, bread five quarts* the pound of lix^ tccn ounces. After dinner we proceeded two leagues to fleep at Tembkque, a town of about two thoufand families, but reckoned to contain only four thoufand four hundred and eigh- teen fouls, with one parifh-chufch, one cha- pel, and one convent. The moil remark- able thing here is a manufacture of faltpetre, in which are employed forty men in winter, iixty in fummer, making fix thoufand arro- bas every year. I. found the manager more than commonly intelligent. He told me, that the expences, notwithftanding the moft rigid economy, amounted to fix hundred thoufand reals ; that is, to about Tour reals, or [ 28 3 ] or nearly <)\d. per pound, of which, accord- ing to this ftatement, the labour coils no more than one penny; fo that the other eight pence halfpenny is for fewel, fur- naces, management, intereft of capital, and other incidental charges. Should we carry this calculation with us to Madrid, how much beyond what I have already ftated will appear to be the lofs on thofe exten- sive works, where fewel is fo fcarce ! He informed me, that he collected all his earth from fpots of ground, on which animal and vegetable fubftances had lain in a ftate of putrefaction. On Saturday, February 17th, we parled through Camunas, a miferable village con- taining about three hundred cottages, to las Vent as de 'Puerto Lapiche, having in thefe three laft days travelled two and twenty leagues. The country is flat, and the view to the north extenfive 5 but before we reached las Veritas, we had loft fight of the fnowy mountains, which feparate the two Caf- tilles. Under favourable circum fiances of air and elevation, I think they muft be ieen. more than a hundred miles. The foil is a loofe [ *8+ ] loofe fand of quartz, and the rock is gra- nite. It is ploughed with two afTes or two mules ; and wherever it is watered by no- rias, produces plenty of corn. The wine is excellent, and in great abundance. The village of Lapicbe is wretched; and the people appear half ftarved, although their crops can never be difappointed by the want of rain, for in the fpace of about fixty acres, I counted more than thirty norias. The Venta is in the old Spanish ftile. It is one hundred and fifty feet in length, and, independent of a communicating filed, or penthoufe, not more than ten feet wide. At one end is a chimney, by way of kitch- en, ten feet fquare, with an hearth in the middle, furrounded on three fides by a bench, upon which the muletiers lit by day, and lie down to ileep by night; but by no means feparated from the long range of ftabies, that with primitive Simplicity, under one hofpitable roof, Ignemque Laremque Et pecas et dommos communi clauderet umbra. Juvenal. There is, adjoining to this, a court yard, with [ 2 Ss ] with a well in the middle of it, and at one end a penthoufe for carts and coaches* The bed-room is over the liable, and, ac- cording to cuflom, all night long we heard, or might have heard, the tinkling bells on, the heads of our mules, at lead as long a? they were feeding. Before we went to reft, we entered into treaty with the curate for early mafs. He ftood for fixteen reals; but at laft, on clofing the bargain, he agreed for eight. Had he perfifted in his demand, we mud have com- plied ; becaufe, to hear mafs on holidays in a catholic country, is indifpenfable, and it would not have been convenient for us to flop upon the road. From las Veritas we defcended into an extenfive plain, bounded by high hills on every fide, producing olives and corn, with faffron. At the end of eight leagues, we came toManzanares. All the travellers on this road were well armed ; and three mo- numental croifes proved that their fears were aot ill founded. It was Sunday, yet many ploughs were working. Their crops are watered by numerous norias. JMtwzanares has one thoufand eight hun- dred [ 286 ] dred families, fix thoufand feven hundred and fixty-eight fouls, which proportion is itfelf a fufficient index of their poverty. The houfes are built with mud, and the poor are almoil naked. In the church we faw four good pictures. The Caflle, with a confiderable eftate, and the tithes, all belong to the knights of Calatrava, and are held by the infant don Antonio, yielding him a revenue of thirty thoufand ducats, or £. 3,295 per an- num. We examined the premifes, viewed the extenfive granaries, and tafted the rich variety of wines. The fteward was fending fome to court, for the table of the infant, which appeared to me, without exception* the beft in Spain. It had the flavour of the richeft burgundy, with the ftrength and body of the moft generous port. After praifing this wine, and thanking the ftew- ard for his civilities, we purfued our walk till the clofe of day; when, at our return to the pofada, we had the happinefs of find- ing more than three gallons of this wine lodged there, and already depofited in our bota's, or leather bottles, for the journey. Unfortunately, the two coachmen foon dif- 3 covered [ 2 8 7 ] covered its peculiar excellence, and, by their amflance, we finifhed in one day, what I had perfuaded myfelf would ferve us three. The pofada is more comfortable, and upon a larger fcale than common, with two and thirty beds, all upon the ground floor. The building is about one hundred and eigh'ty feet long, by thirty- fix or forty wide, with one long range through the middle for coach-houfe and ftable, from which the kitchen is fcarcely feparated by a partial ikreen. The bed-rooms to the right and left, are about lixteen feet by fourteen, each after the Spaniih fafhion, furnifhed with four beds. On Monday, 19th February, we left Manzanares early in the morning, paffing through a level country to Valdepenas, at the diftance of four leagues, to dinner. The foil is fand with gravel, producing fome olives and much wine, but moftly corn. The' norias arc well conftructed, with the great wheel of iron inflead of wood. The rock is fchift. In the way we palled two monumental crolfes. Valdepenas is famous for good wine, which [ 283 J which is fent chiefly to Madrid; hut whenever the navigation mail be opened, as propofed, to Seville, this, with many othef curious wines, the produce of La Mancha, will find its way to England, and will be in great requeft. In this town are feveri thoufand fix hundred and fifty-one fouls. From hence we parted through Santa Cruz, and then began to afcerid among rough uncultivated hills, till we took up 6ur lodging aj: 'La Conception de AlmuradieL This little village, of thirty-fix families, is the firft we meet with in the new fettle- ments of the Sierra Morena. It was built A. D. 1781. The inn furrounds a court yard of ninety feet by fifty, with a coach-houfe adjoining, of one hundred and fifty feet by forty, and has flables in proportion. The rooms are well fitted up, each with a chimney, and two alcoves for beds. Above thefe are the apartments of the administrator, his deputy* and his fervants ; with extenfive granaries, and a corridor, forming a communication around it. Every thing here is upon the Ring's account, and, of courfe, little atten- 2 tiori [ *8 9 ] tion is paid to travellers. They gave me, for the firft time in Spain, dirty meets ; but, after fome remonftrances, the ad- miniftrator lent me a clean pair of his own. Every fettler has ninety fanegas of land in emphiteujis, or as a copyhold, paying only the tithes to the king, and twelve quartos, or about three pence acknowledgment for the houfe. Bread fells for eight quartos and an half a pound. Ram mutton, ten quartos. Beef they have none. Wine is two quartos the quartillo, or about four pence fterling the gallon. Santa Elena is peopled chiefly with Ger- mans. In the vicinity we met with nume- rous cottages, not collected together, but fcattered over the country, according to the plan recommended by the Abbe Raynal ; but they foon difcovered, what in this in- ftance he feems to have overlooked, that man is happier in fociety, and therefore gave up this mode of fettlement for vil- lages. The country is highly cultivated ; yet fo Vol, -IL U many [ 2 9 ] many trees are left, that the whole, at a little diftance, appears like an extenfive foreft. They plough with cows, and make dif- patch. In this part of Spain, and indeed all through Andalucia and La Mancha, milk, butter and cheefe, appear to have no value, or at leaft it may be faid that in thofe provinces they have no dairies, and very feldom milk their cows. Gazpacbo feems to fupply the place of buttermilk and whey among the peafants, who during the heat of fummer live chiefly on a mixture of bread, vinegar and oil. There can be no doubt that as the country improves in cul- tivation, they will learn to derive a profit from their milk. In one cottage we law tame partridges. Thefe are trained, like decoy ducks, to colled: others. In the higher regions of the Sierra we find the granite ; but, as we defcend, the fchift again appears, with limeflone and gypfum. At noon we came to Carolina, the capi- tal of thefe new iettlements. Their founder, D. Pablo de Olavide, is a 9 native [ 2 9i ] native of Peru, who, being protected by count d'Aranda, was made at firit fyndic of Madrid, and afterwards ajjijiente de Sevi/la. Whilfr. in this employment, he conceived the idea of introducing agriculture and arts in the debited mountains of the Sierra, where rapine and violence had for ages eftablimed their dominion. The difficulty was to procure fettlers. One Turrigel, of Bavaria, contracted for fix thoufand huf- bandmen ; but, inflead of men trained to agriculture, he brought only vagabonds, who all either died or were difperfed, with- out advancing the work for which, at an immenfe expence, they had been brought. Settlers were then invited from all parts of Germany, and, in order to encourage emigration from thofe hives, every new comer, on application, received a lot of land, a houfe, two cows, one afs, five fheep, as many goats, fix hens with a cock, one pregnant low, a plough, and a pick-axe, with other emoluments of inferior value. They begin with fifty fanegas of land, of ten thoufand fquare feet each ; and when they have cultivated thefe, they receive fifty more, free of all rent for the firil ten U 2 years, [ 2 9 2 ] years, and after that period, fubjecl: only to the royal tithes. No proprietor can alien- ate his land to one who is in pofTeffion of a lot, in order that the farms may never be- come either too little, or too big. They are not permitted to fettle, either near to a morafs or to ftagnant water. The foil about Carolina confifts chiefly of fand 5 and the rock is either limeftone or gypfum. They produce olives, oil, wine, filk, wheat, barley, rye, oats, peas, Indian wheat, and lentils. They have no manufactures, and there- fore cannot profitably employ all their peo- ple. Hence it is, that thefe new fettle- ments fwarm with half naked beggars. The numbers, at prefent fettled in the Sierra Morena, will appear from the go- vernment returns, and are as follows : un- married men, two thoufand three hundred and eighty-eight; unmarried women, one thoufand feven hundred and twenty-four ; married men, one thoufand fix hundred and twenty ; married women, one thou- fand fix hundred and nine ; widows, three hundred and eighteen -, widowers, two § hundred [ 293 1 hundred and nine; total feven thoufand eight hundred and fixty-eight. Of thefe, the hufbandmen are one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-four ; day labourers, four hundred and eleven ; artifans, orte hundred and feven ty- two j fervants, three hundred and fixty-fixj employed by the crown, one hundred and eighteen. Conlidering that all thefe were afTembled and eftablifhed in lefs than ten years, we mufl admire the energy and zeal of Ola- vide. They have been collected, at a vafl expence, from diftant countries, and enjoy lingular immunities, yet the colony is far from profpering. The reafon of this mufl be fought for, either in the climate, the foil, the government, the morals of the people, or in the want of a market for the furplus of their produce. It is allowed that no country, if the cli- mate is unhealthy, or if the foil is barren, if it wants corn and cattle, or if it is defli- tute of fewel, can be populous -, but, in the Sierra, excepting tertians, they are {ab- ject to few difeafes ; the foil is certainly productive both in fruits and herbage, and it abounds with wood. Suppoiing U 3 the [ 294 ] the government of a country to be either weak or vicious, the peafant having no certainty of protection for his perfon and for his property, the moil fertile foil, notwithstanding repeated efforts to increafe its population, will be deferted. Or, mould the morals be corrupt, the people will not increafe and multiply ; the births will not fill up the vacancies made by death ; and, to keep up the population, emigrants mull be invited from more pro- line nations. But neither is it from thefe caufes that the Sierra languishes, becaufe the people are felf governed, that is to fay, five villages unite to choofe a fenate for the admin iflration, both temporal and fpiritual ; and as for luxury, with its attendant vices, it is yet unknown. We mull refer, there- fore, to the want of a market, for the un- profperous condition of this new, this fe- queflered colony. The principles, thus briefly flated, are confirmed by the experience of all nations. In favourable circumllances, a country, not fully peopled, will double its numbers at leafl every five and twenty years. Whenever, therefore, inflead of thus ad- vancing, [ 295 ] vancing, -a defective population is at a ftand, or going backwards, we may be certain that, if fought for, fome of the caufes above fuggefted will be difcovered. At Carolina we met with comfortable rooms in a pofida, which is kept by a Frenchman, and fared fumptuoufly. It was February 20th, yet we had cauliflowers and green peas. The people in this diftrict being fubject to agues, and to fuch intermittent^, as, when neglected, foon turn putrid, I looked about for ftagnant water, and for marfli miafma; but I could find none, and am therefore fatisfied, that thefe difeafes may arife from other caufes, befide thofe which have been commonly afiigned. Thus far the road through the Sierra is excellent ; but all beyond is in a fiate of nature. About two leagues from Carolina is Guadaroman, a village comprifing one hun- dred families, each poffefiing its fifty fanegas of land. It is fituated on a gentle declivity, by the fide of a purling brook, in a fertile fpot, which is chequered with corn fields U 4 and [ *¥> ] and little groves of ilex. The diflant hills are beautifully varied in their forms, and covered with wood. The foil is fandy, and the trees are healthy -, yet the inhabitants fuffer much by intermittent fevers. They have no beef. Mutton is feven- teen quarts, or four pence three farthings the pound of two and thirty ounces j and bread is half that price. The inhabitants are chiefly Germans, who, both by their induflry and frugality, do credit to their country. As we increafe our diflance from this little colony, we lofe iight of every thing which marks the refidence of man ; but, in approaching Baikn, we pais through im- menfe plantations of the olive, belonging, with that village, and a vail: extent of coun- try round it, to the countefs of Penafiel. In the way we fee Bahos, with its caflle, fitu- ated on a hill, and commanding a diflant profpect. Having quitted Bailen, we en- tered a forefl, and at the top of a hill faw one monumental crofs j then, leaving Zo- guega> with its convent, to the right, we came to the venta of Sequaca 5 and after dinner, [ 297 ] dinner, fometimes traverfing extenfive fo- refls of the ilex, at others meeting with plantations of the olive, we came to An- dujar. The rock, wherever it is laid bare by torrents, appears to be hard granite, of dif- ferent fpecies, both of the red and of the white. Andujar is fituated in a rich and highly cultivated plain. It numbers fix thoufand eight hundred families, five parilli churches, and ten convents, but has no manufacture. The caftle carries the marks of great anti- quity; it was taken from the Moors, A. D. 1225, by Ferdinand III. furnamed EI Santo, Thurfday, February 22, at five in the morning, when we Jeft Andujar, after crof- fing the bridge over the Guadalquivir, and entering a plantation of olives, my compa- nions each cocked his piftol, and held it to the window, whilir, a ibldier, with his gun, walked by our fide, and the coachmen were charged inftantly to Hop, if any one ap- peared. Thefe precautions, I apprehend, were needlefs, becaufe it was well known that we were armed; but as feveral rob- beries [ 293 ] beries had been committed near the city, they thought it right to be upon their guard. At break of day, as we advanced into a more open country, our apprehen- sions vanilhed, and the piflols were un- cocked. All the hills we crorTed, bounding the river to the north, are covered with fmooth, round, limeftone gravel, and fome flints ; but in approaching to Del Carpio, the rock appears formed of fllicious grit with mica, evidently from decompofed granite. In Del Carpio are feven hundred and fifty houfes, with an old caftle, a poft-houfe, and a well built pofada. As fcon as we arrived, we paid our re- fpects to the corregidor, and mewed him our parTports, in order to fecure a good re-* ception at our inn. The reafon of this pre- caution was, that one of our companions had formerly quarrelled with the good man of the inn, and had caufed him to be fent to prifon, for attempting to ftab him with a knife. The man kept out of light, but his wife was determined to take revenge. It was little me could do -, but all me could, me did, to teftify her refentment. For this [ 299 ] this purpofe me affigned us a miferable room, with four mattrerTes, each occupying its corner, and llretched upon the floor. Fearing to be devoured by fleas, I chofe ra- ther to fleep in our carriage. In the mid- dle of the night the treading of a foot awakened my attention ; and, as there was a lamp, I looked out to fee who was in motion. My fituation rendered me invifi- ble, and the light enabled me clearly to difcern every thing that palled. The per- fon who was moving was a muleteer, and his object was to fee what he could ileal. For this purpofe he examined the kitchen, then vifited the parTage communicating with the bed-rooms, and tried at every door, but finding them all fattened, he came to the coach; where feeing me, he fled back into the liable, and hid him- felf. Provifions here are cheap. They kill no mutton : beef, goat, and kid, are fixteen quarts a pound confuting of thirty-two ounces. The land in the vicinity is rich. It be- longs chiefly to the dutchefs of Alba, and her corfegidor adminifters it for her. He appears [ 3 00 } appears to manage well. The plantations of olives are extenfive, and the trees are not, like thofe of the countefs of Penafiel round Bailen, worn out with age, but young and healthy. As we draw nigh to Cordova, the high- eft hills are covered with flints and bowl- der flones, or large fmooth tumblers, of limeftone, filicious grit, and granite; and, as we approach the river, we difcover a bed of gravel, of all the above fpecies, twelve or fourteen feet in thicknefs. Cordova is fituated in a plain of great extent, which is bounded on the fouth by fwelling hills cultivated to their very fum- mits, and on the north by a chain of rug- ged mountains, the continuation of the Si- erra Morena. Through the midft of the plain runs the Guadalquivir; and the whole country being well wooded, well watered, and well cultivated, cannot be furpafled either in riches or in beauty. Here, for the firft time fince I left Barcelona, I re- joiced to find the fig, the orange, and the palm, |ii great abundance. It is a mofl .enchanting fpot. This city contains thirty- two thoufand fouls* [ 3 01 ] fouls, fourteen parifhes, and forty-four con- vents. The flrft thing I did on my arrival, was to prefent myfelf before the intendant, with my letter from count Florida Blanca. He received me with politenefs, and preffed me to prolong my flay; but, unfortunately, I had made engagements, and therefore pro- ceeded the next day. All that I could do was to vifit the great church, and with this I was exceedingly delighted. Its nu- merous pillars, arranged in quincunx, ap- peared like a grove of faplings ; and are laid to be eight hundred, but I had not time to count them, yet I mould conceive them to be many more. It was a mofque. The dimenfions are five hundred and ten feet,, by four hundred and twenty. I was ilruck with the multitude of beg- gars in every ftreet ; and, upon inquiry, foon found the caufe to be the miftaken benevolence of the biiliop, of the canons, and of the convents, in diftributing alms to all who aik. The bifhopric is worth eighty thoufand five hundred ducats, or £. 8,843 pounds fterling, per annum. Out of this income the bifhop gives money ev r [ 3 02 J every day, alternately to the men and to the women, and on fome days he has re- lieved more than feven thoufand perfons. Befides pecuniary donations, he diftributes daily thirty fanegas of corn ; yet, notwith- standing this more than ample provifion for the indolent and vicious, many are faid to have perifhed lafl year for want of bread. The chief difeafes are tertians and putrid fevers. Thefe arife from the quantity of cucumbers and melons they eat, not only in the fummer, but early in the fpring. Provifions are, beef thirteen quarts the double pound, mutton fifteen, pork twenty- two, wine fix quarts the quartillo, or about one milling the gallon. Labourers expect feven or eight reals a day, or, if they are victualled, only three. Cordova had the honour of giving birth to Seneca and Lucan ; and when Abdoul- raman, after fubduing the fouth of Spain, had eftablimed here the feat of his domi- nion, (A. D. 759), the fciences, with arts and arms, which were every where elfe a- bandoned, took up their refidence, and flourhhed in this city. Saturday, February 24, at fix in the morning, [ 3°3 ] morning, we fet forwards on our journey, having joined another coach, which was going the fame road with four gentlemen well armed. In travelling through Spain, I have conftantly obferved, that, wherever danger is apprehended, travellers affociate, and form fometimes confiderable bodies, yet without any communication, or verbal engagement for mutual defence, or any other bond of union befide their fears. Influenced by thefe alone, they unite their forces, and make a tacit agreement to fup- port each other, or at leafl, by their num- bers, to intimidate the thieves. One of our companions, the naval officer, not fatisfied with this reinforcement; in addition to the foldier, who attended our captain by way of a fervant and a guard, hired two marines. Thus efcorted, we proceeded with confi- dence, yet with circumfpeclion ; thinking at leafl to have a view of the villains, who had been robbing on this road, but happily we faw nothing of them. In traverfmg the downs, I obferved on the fummit of the higheft hill, at the dis- tance of about two leagues from the Gua- dalquivir, the farface covered with large bowlder [ 3°4 ] bowlder itones, of the fame fpecies with thofe already mentioned in the approach to Cordova. Such facts mould be treafured in the memory. We came at noon to Charlotta, a new fettlement, and at prefent in its infancy, like thofe of the Sierra Morena. The country is beautiful, the foil rich, the her- bage luxuriant, and the oxen large. In the pofada we had a French cook, and fared well. The price of provifions is here, beef eighteen quarts, mutton twenty, kid eighteen, bread eleven for a pound of thirty-two ounces, wine ten quarts the quartillo. From hence, after dinner, we proceeded over the downs, admiring their extreme fertility, of which, in a few cultivated fpots, we were able to judge by the luxuriant crops of beans then in full blofTom. Thefe were well hoed. As we approached Ecija, the face of the country improved; cultivation appeared to be carried on with fpirit j the oxen became remarkable for beauty and for fize ; and the plantations of olives mewed the richnefs of the foil. The rock is a pudding {tone, and there- fore. [ 30S'l fore, with the fmooth tumblers above de- fcribed, prove to a demonftration that the whole country partook of the grand revo- lution, to which I have fo frequently re- ferred. Ecija is eight leagues from Cordova* It is delightfully fituated on the banks of the Xenil, with pleafant walks, ferving, like thofe of the great cities in Spain, for the evening refort. It contains twenty-eight thoufand one hundred and feventy-fix fouls, and has fix parifh churches, eight chapels, twenty convents, and fix hofpitals. The churches, built entirely of brick, are fitted up in the old tafte, and crowded with pillars, which are loaded with prepof- terous ornaments, and covered with gold. The molt extravagant of all is the church of nuefira Senora del Rofario, in the con- vent of the Dominicans -, this may ferve as a model for the perfection of vitiated tafte. The Plaza Mayor is a fine object, very fpacious, and much to be admired for its balconies, occupying the whole front of the houfes. When we arrived, we found every one engaged in talking over a defeat, which the Vol. II. X king's [ 3°6 ] king's troops had fuffered the preceding day from the fmugglers, near one hundred of whom, well armed, entering the city, had driven away the military, had killed one man, and had then, unmolefted, fold their muff to the inhabitants. This violence was more than ufual, and proceeded from the bad policy of government, in raifing the price of tobacco from thirty to forty reals the pound, whilft the illicit trader purchafed the fame commodity in Portugal for eight. With fuch encouragement for defrauding the re- venue, it will* never be poflible to prevent this trade; and whilft men have fuch power- ful inducements to violate the laws, no go- vernment, how flrenuous foever its exer- tions, and how cruel foever the punifhment inflicted on offenders, will ever be able to maintain a good police. In Spain, unlefs it be accompanied with murder, the penalty for fmuggling is commonly a confinement for feven or ten years to hard labour in the prefidios'y where, by communication with profligate and hardened villains, who are under fimilar correction, they are prepared for the perpetration of the mofl atrocious crimes -, and, thus qualified, they are turned loofe [ 3°7 ] loofe upon the public. Previous to this part of his education, the fmuggler feldom robs on the highway, unlefs when he has been plundered, and is therefore more than commonly diilreffed for want of horfes, of money, or of arms. In fuch circumftances he becomes outrageous, and frequently be- gins with murdering the traveller, whom he means to rob. Farmers in this vicinity rent dear, paying commonly two bufhels of wheat and one of barley for every bufhel of their feed; or if they pay a ftipulated fum of money, it is not immediately to the land-owner, but, as under-tenants, to rich land-jobbers; and therefore they can expect no moderation. Farms, if inclofed, let much higher than thofe which are open, becaufe the latter are liable to be fed by the Merino fheep ; whereas, mould they enter the former, one- fifth of the number trefpaffing would be forfeited. This, however, proves a never- failing fource of quarrels and contentions between the occupiers of land and thofe, who may be called graziers, that is, the proprietors of the Merino flock, who, un- der the fanclion of a peculiar code, claim X 2 the [ 3°8 ] the privilege of feeding, not only in the common pafture, but even in plantations of olives. The murders confequent on thefe quarrels have been more than two hundred in the fpace of a few years ; and the litiga- tions have coft the contending parties more than the value, both of their fheep and of their olives. The council of Caftille inter- fered, in the year 1570, to prohibit this; but the great fheep-mafters appeal to their own courts, plead their privilege, as granted by the Mefta code, and fupport their claim by force. Throughout the whole province of An- dalufia, cities and boroughs have immenfe porTeffions, in many inffcances extending to the diftance of three leagues from them every way, including thus more than two hundred thoufand acres, either of wafte land, or of fuch as might be cultivated, if it were not too remote from the habitation of the farmer. Of thefe, not one-fourth part is broken up by the plough; and that, which remains uncultivated, rather checks than promotes the breed of cattle. In fhort, ac- cording to the opinion of the beft patriots in Spain, Andalufia is ruined by high rents, and [ 3°9 ] and by common paftures. (V. Memorias de la Sociedad Economica, Madrid.) February 25. At five in the morning, we left Ecija, and followed the Roman caufeway leading from Cordova to Seville, till we came to Carmona. The country through which we puffed belongs to the crown, and will be improved as fall as emi- grants can be induced to come. At prefent little is cultivated, and that little, bears the face of wretchednefs, exhibiting ruined cot- tages, and half-naked peafants. We con- verfed with a Frenchman, who had heen here eighteen years, and during that period had been often removed from his plantation, becaufe, by his diligence and ikill, he had improved his allotment, which being given to flovens, he was compelled to take new land. It is true they always gave him, what they coniidered as an equivalent, not in- tending to injure him, but meaning only to avail thcmfelves of his fuperior application and abilities ; yet, in the end, they reduced him to poverty, and broke his fpint. This, he informed us, was no uncommon cafe ; and, from the mifcry every where vifible in X 3 thefe [ 3 IQ ] thefe new colonics, I am inclined to credit his report. The botanical productions are chiefly the ilex, the myrtle, the gum ciftus, the lavender, a fpecies of the .Daphne, and a plant calied lentifcus, Carmona is built on a declivity, looking down upon a rich valley, which is bounded by diftant hills, excepting only to the fouth, where a wide opening gives pailage to the Guadalquivir. It contains twelve thoufand fix hundred and eighty-five fouls, and includes {even. parifh churches, with five convents for men, two for women, and two hofpitals. Here they reckon more than a hundred oil -mills. As ibon as we arrived, although the fun was fet, I took horfes, and went off for Se-r ville, that I might have a comfortable bed. The diftance is fix leagues, or about twenty miles, and the charge was one hundred and twenty reals, or four- and- twenty millings, including the licence, which mufb always be taken out, when you begin a journey with poft horfes. It being dark, I could not fee the coun- ty [ 3" ] try, but I found that it was level, that the foil was fandy, and, by the inceffant croak- ing of frogs, I concluded that every ditch was full of flagnant water. At ten in the evening I arrived at Se- ville, well contented with my horfes, hav- ing travelled the fix leagues in little more than two hours. Indeed, no horfes can move more pleafantly, than thofe of Anda- lufia, cantering the whole way, without needing either whip or fpur. I took up my lodging at the pofada de la Baviere, and flept more comfortably than I had done iince we left Madrid, X 4 SEVILLE. SEVILLE, THE morning after my arrival I ex- amined my letters. Among the per- fons of diftinclion and authority, to whom I was recommended, I judged, as an eccle- fiaftic, my firfl attention to be due to the archbifhop, and therefore I haflened early to his palace. He received me with po- litenefs, permitted me to kifs his ring, made me fit down, and then, having read my let- ter, he told me, that as long as I continued at Seville I muil dine every day with him, unlefs when I mould be more agreeably en- gaged. After fome little converfation, he de- iired to fee the addrefs of my other letters, and calling a page, he ordered that a coach mould be got ready, and that one of his chaplains mould attend me, to deliver my letters, and to mew me every thing worthy 9 of [ 3*3 ] of attention in the city. When I left him, he defired me to come back to dinner, tell- ing me, that during my flay, that coach would be wholly at my fervice. Agreeable to this invitation I returned, and not only dined with him that day, but almoft every day during a fortnight's residence at Seville. I was indeed often preffingly invited by other families - y but, as it was the feafon of lent, and as fiih, in Spain, never agreed with me, I declined their invitations. At the archbifhop's table were many aged per- fons, who were fuppofed to be infirm, and therefore for them were provided a variety of dimes, fuch as others did not feel them- felves at liberty to touch. To this circum- ftance I reckon myfelf indebted for return- ing health ; becaufe, for want of cuftom, and in a weakly condition at the time, I mould never have been able to endure a fail, which, with the exception of the in- tervening fabbaths, is in fad:, although not by precept, a faft of forty days. The archbifhop is well lodged, and keeps a hofpitable table. He is quite the man of famion : his manners are engaging, and his conversation lively. His ufual com- [ 3H J company at dinner was his confefTor, his chaplains, his fecretaries, and a few friends.. He was attended by his pages, who are ge- nerally young men of family, recommended to his patronage, and educated under his infpection. The librarian fometimes fat down at the table, at other times waited behind a chair. He was commonly my guide, and with him I vifited every corner of the city. Seville {lands on the banks of the Gua- dalquivir, in the midft of a rich, and, to the eye, a boundlefs plain. It is furrounded by a wall of more than a league in circum- ference, with one hundred and feventy-fix towers. Over one of the gates is the fol- lowing infcription ; Condidit Alcides, renovavit Julius Urbem, Reftituit ChriHo Fernandus Tertius, Heros, Which, over another gate, is thus tranf- lated ; Hercules me edifico; Julio Cefar me cerco De Muros y torres altas; Y el Rey fanto me gano Con Garci Perez de Vargas, The [ 3>S 1 The ftreets are narrow, and fome of them fo contracted, that you may touch both walls at the fame time. Few are wide enough for carriages ; and many, through which coaches pafs, fhew, by the deep furrows in the walls, that one nave touched, and often both at the iame time. Seville is faid to contain eighty thoufand two hundred and fixty-eight fouls, and is divided into thirty parifhes. It has eighty- four convents, with twenty-four hofpitals. Of the public edifices, the firft to de- mand attention is the cathedral, a build- ing of fingular magnificence, but admired chiefly for its tower, the work of Guever, the Moor. He made it originally two hun- dred and fifty feet high, but A. D. 1568, it was raifed one hundred more, and is there- fore, at prefent, three hundred and fifty feet. It has no fteps, nor are they wanted - ? be- caufe the inclined plain is fo eafy of afcent, that a horfe might trot from the bottom to the top j at the lame time it is fo fpacious, that two horfemen may ride abreafl. On the top of this tower is the Giralda, or Jarge brazen image, which, with its palm- z branch, [ 3'6 ] branch, weighs near one ton and an half, yet turns with the flighted variation of the wind. The dimenfions of the cathedral are four hundred and twenty feet, by two hun- dred and fixty- three; and the height is one hundred and twenty-fix. It was built A. D. 1 40 1. It receives light by fourfcore win- dows with painted glafs, the work of Ar- nao of Flanders, each of which coft one thoufand ducats. The treaiures of this church are inefti- mable : one altar is wholly filver, with all its ornaments, as are the images, large as life, of S. Ifidore and S. Leander, and a cuftcdia or tabernacle for the hoit, more than four yards high, adorned with eight and forty columns ; yet thefe are trifling in value, when compared with the gold and precious fton.es depofited by the piety and zeal of catholics, during the period in which all the wealth of a newly- difcovered world flowed into this city. The profu- fion of gold, of filver, and of gems, would be more ftriking, were not the attention occupied and loll in admiration of innume- rable pictures, the works of thofe Spanifh matters [ 3 1 / 3 matters who fiourifhed, immediately after the revival of the art, in Seville. Every chapel preferves fome monuments of their fuperior fkill. Of thefe, the molt confpi- cuous are of Luis de Vargas, and of Fr. Zurbaran, but chiefly of Murillo. By the laft is a Nativity in the chapel of the Conception, and, near the baptifmal font, S. Anthony of Padua, with the Baptifm of Chrift. In the principal facrifty, are his much-admired pictures of S- Ifidore, with his brother S. Leander; and in another fa- crifty, his Holy Family, with an Ecce ho- mo by Morales. The chapter-houfe is wholly devoted to Murillo, and the chapel of S. Peter is given up to Zurbaran. The works of Luis de Vargas are difperfed in various places ; but his famous picture, called de la Gamba, is in a chapel near the gate of S. Chriftopher, and merits particu- lar, attention. To the cathedral belongs a library of twenty thoufand volumes, collected by Hernando, fon to Chriftobal Colon, the firft difcoverer of America, a man of tafte, and much admired in his day for learn- ing. It is to be lamented, that modern pub- lications I 318 ] lications have not been added to complete* what was fo well begun by him. I was much pleafed with the confiruc- tion of a new organ, containing five thou- fand three hundred pipes, with one hundred and ten Hops, which latter, as the builder told me, is fifty more than are in the fa- mous one of Harlem ; yet, fo ample are the bellows, that, when ftretched, they fupply the full organ fifteen minutes. The mode of filling them with air is lingular ; for in- ftead of working with his hands, a man walks backwards and forwards along an in- clined plain of about fifteen feet in length, which is balanced in the middle on its axis -, under each end is a pair of bellows, of about fix feet by three and an half. Thefe com- municate with five other pair united by a bar; and the latter are fo contrived, that when they are in danger of being overtrain- ed, a valve is lifted up, and gives them relief. Pafiing ten times along the inclined plain fills all thefe veffels. In the cathedral are eighty-two altars, at which are faid daily five hundred maffes. The annual confumption is fifteen hun- dred [ 3 J 9 ] dred arrobas of wine, eight hundred of oil, and of wax about one thoufand. The wealth belonging to this chapter may be eftimated by the numbers that are fupported by it. The archbimop, with a revenue of three hundred thoufand ducats j or, in fterling, nearly thirty- three thoufand pounds a year. Eleven dignitaries, who wear the mitre on high feftivals, amply, but not equally, provided for. Forty canons of forty thoufand reals, or about four hundred pounds each, per an- num. Twenty prebendaries, with an income of thirty thoufand reals each. Twenty-one minor canons, at twenty thoufand reals each. Befide thefe, they have twenty chanters, called Veinteneros, with three affiftants, called Sochantres, two beadles, one matter of the ceremonies, with a deputy, three at- tendants to call the roll and mark the ab- fentees, thirty-fix boys for ringing and for the fervice of the altar, with their rector, vice rector, and mufic matters ; nineteen chaplains, f 320 ] chaplains, four curates, four confefTors* twenty-three muficians, and four fupernu- meraries; in all, two hundred and thirty- five. Many of the convents are remarkable for the beauty of their architecture ; but, in Seville, the eye covets only pictures, and amidft the profulion of thefe, it overlooks works, which, in other lituations, would ri- vet the attention, and every where fixes on the pencil of Murillo. His moft famous performances are in the Hofpital de la Ca- ridad, and, fuited to the institution, exprefs fome act of charity ; fuch as, the miracle of the Loaves and Fifties ; the Smiting of the Rock in Horeb ; the Pool of Bethefda ; the Reception of the returning Prodigal ; Abra- ham addreffing the three angels, and pref- fing them to enter his habitation ; the De- liverance of Peter from the Prifonj and Charity, in the perfon of Elizabeth, warn- ing the wounds and curing the difeafes of the poor. Belide thefe, in the fame hofpi- tal, is the Annunciation of the bleifed Vir- gin -, and two little pictures, the one of the infant Jefus, the other of John. The church of the Capuchins is richly furniftied t 321 ] furnifhed with his works ; and, although in thefe the compofition is more fimple than in the former, yet they may be confidered as fome of the bcft of his productions. Ele- ven of his pictures are to be fttn in a cha- pel called de la vera Cruz, belonging to the Franeifcans. Thefe do much credit to his pencil -, and, not inferior to them, are many preferved in other convents ; fuch as, an Ecce homo, and the bleiled Virgin, with the infant Jefus, in the church of the Car- melites ; the Flight into Egypt, in that of la Merced Calzada ; a rich variety of fub- jects in S. Maria de la blanca; and S. Au- guilin writing, with S. Thomas of Villa- nueva, dripping himfelf to clothe the poor, in the convent of the Auguftin friars, near the gate of Carmona. In my opinion, the moil: mafterly of all his works is in the re- fectory of an hofpital deiigned for the re- ception of fuperannuated prielts. It repre- fents an angel holding a bafket to the in- fant Jefus, who, Handing on his mother's lap, takes bread from it to feed three vene- rable priefts. No reprefentation ever ap- proached nearer to real life, nor is it poffi- ble to fee more expreffion, than glows upon Vol. II. Y that [ 3^2 ] that canvafs. In the parochial church of Santa Cruz, are two pictures in a fuperior flile, a Stabat Mater dolorofa, which excels in grace and foftnefs ; and the famous De- fcent from the Crofs, of Pedro de Campana, which Murillo was accuftomed daily to ad- mire, and oppofite to which, by his own directions, he was buried. This great painter was born A. D. 1618, and died in 1682. His name flands high in Europe ; but to form an adequate idea of his excellence, every convent mould be vifited, where he depofited the monuments of his fuperior (kill. In exactnefs of imitation he was equalled; in clara obfcuro, and in reflected lights, he was furpaffed by Velazquez ; but not one of all the Spanifh artifts went beyond him in tendernefs and foftnefs. In vifiting the convents, and in viewing their pictures, I had the happinefs to have for my guide D. Francifco de Bruna, a gentleman diftinguifhed for his judgment and his tafte, who had fludied the peculiar excellence of every matter, and was per- fectly acquainted with the merit of each work. t 323 ] work. He has himfelf a well-difpofed col- lection of the beft Spanifh painters, natives of Seville, or educated there ; fuch as, Luis de Vargas, Velazquez, Zurbaran, Valdez, and Murillo, befide many of the Italian and of the FlemiiTi fchools. The houfe in which they are depoiited, and in which he lives, was once the refidence of Moorifh kings, and, as fuch, was called Alcazar. It is an irregular building, but commodious and pleafantly fituated, com- prifing many large and well-proportioned rooms. But, as it is fufficiently defcribed by travellers, I mail not add to their de- fcriptions. The garden is lingular, and, having retained its priftine form, it is meant to ferve as a model of the Moorifh tafte. It is laid out in alleys, with clipped myrtle hedges, and in the middle of the parterres are fingle trees cut into the form of warri- ors, with fpiked clubs. Its principal fruits are oranges and lemons. The whole of this pleafure-garden, together with the palace and the court-yard, is furrounded by a flrong rampart, communicating with, but much higher than, the city wall ; and beyond this is an orange -grove of conliderable extent. Y 2 For t 3-4 ] For the winter and for the fpring, there cannot be a more delightful refidence. In fpeaking of pictures, I have confined myfelf chiefly to Murillo, becaufe of his fuperior excellence, and becaufe Seville, the place of his nativity, may be confidered as the principal depofitory of his work. But although eminent, he by no means ftands alone. This once famous fchool, in which the art revived at the beginning of the fix- teenth century, when firft the treafures of the weftern continent were brought to Se- ville, has produced a multitude of good pain- ters. Among thefe, ftand foremoft Pedro de Villegas, the father of this fchool, Luis de Vargas, Velazquez, Herrera, Roelas, Juan de el Caftillo, Zurbaran, Francifco Pacheco, Alonfo Cano, and Valdcz, with many others univerfally admired. The works of thefe great mailers, and of various foreigners, as well as of native Spa- niards, are to be met w T ith, not only in the churches, but in the houfes of the principal inhabitants. Among thefe, I vifited the col- lections of the marquis of Mofcofo, of D. Pedro de Cafcro, and of D. Donato de Aren- zana. In the poffeffion of the latter is, per- haps, [ 2*5 1 haps, the moft perfect reprefentation that was ever painted upon canvafs : it is a lamb, by Zurbaran, with which Velazquez was fo much ftruck, that he took the pains to copy- it. This I had feen in the poifefiion of D. Fr. de Bruna ; but when I had viewed the original, the copy, much as I had before admired it, funk in my eftimation. D. Do- nato has, befide this, a good head by Mora- les, a Conception by Guido, a moft incom- parable portrait of S. Ignatius Loyola by Careno; the Defcent from the Crofs by Luis de Vargas, and the Death of Abel by Bobadilla. Of the convents, that which is upon the moft extenfive fcale belongs to the Francif- cans. It contains fifteen cloifters, many of which are elegant and fpacious, with apart- ments for two hundred monks ; but at pre- fent they have only one hundred and forty in their community. Thefe, like all of their order, are fed by charity, and are much fa- voured by the people. Their annual expen- diture is more than four hundred thoufand reals, or in fterling about four thoufand pounds, amounting to twenty-eight pounds eleven (hillings and five pence for each. But Y 3 then [ 3*« ] then out of this muft be deducted the ex- pence of wine, oil, and wax, with the alms diftributed daily to the poor, which all to- gether is confiderable. Not one of the convents is equally fre- quented as this, more efpecially during the forty days of Lent. In the principal cloif- ter, which is intirely inclofed by a multi- tude of little chapels, are reprefented, in fourteen pictures, each called z. ftation, all the fufferings of the Redeemer. Thefe are fo arranged as to mark given diftances by walking round the cloifter from the hrft to the fecond, and fo in order to the reft. Over them is mentioned the number of fteps taken by our Lord between the feve- ral incidents of his paffion in his way to Calvary, and thefe precilely are the paces meafured for the penitents in their progrefs from one ftation to another. Over one is the following infcription : " This ftation " confifts of 1,087 ft e P s « Here the blefTed *' Redeemer fell a fecond time under the " weight of his crofs, and here is to be " gained the indulgence of feven years and " forty quarantines. Mental prayer, the " Paternofter and the Ave Maria." This may [ 3 2 7 ] may ferve as an example for the reft. I ob- ferved men, women, and children, rich and poor, going their rounds, fome folitary, others in little groups, repeating aloud their Latin prayers, and kneeling at every ftation in regular fucceffion. Among all the hofpitals I was raoft pleafed with that of la Sangre, deiigned for the reception of female patients. The front is elegant, and the fculpture is much to be admired, more efpecially the three figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity. The wards are fpacious, and the whole is re- markable for neatnefs. Were I inclined to enlarge in my defcrip- tions of the public buildings, the Torre del Oro, the Plaza de Toros, the Aqueduct with its four hundred and ten arches, but more efpecially the Exchange, would afford me ample fcope. The latter, planned by Her- rera (A. D. 1598,) and worthy of its great architect, is a quadrangle of two hundred feet, with a corridor or fpacious gallery round it, adorned with Ionic columns, and fup- ported by an equal number of Doric. The univerfity was founded in the year 1502, and foon rofe into confideration. The Y 4 name t 3*8 ] name of Arias Montanus, who lies buried at the convent of S. Jago, is alone fufficient to give celebrity to this feminary. His translation of the holy Scriptures will be va- lued by the learned, as long as the Scriptures themielves mall be the objects of veneration to mankind. The number of under-gra- duateshere is about five hundred. We meet at Seville with the favourite inftitutions of Count Campomanes, his academy for the three no^le arts of paint- ing, fculpture, and architecture, and ■ his ceconomical fociety of the friends of their country. Both thefe have been attended with fuccefs, and have given affiftance not only to the arts, but to agriculture,, to ma- nufactures, and to commerce. About two hundred pupils attend the former. The principal manufacture is fnurT. To this I paid particular attention. The edi- fice, eiegant and fimple in its form, is about fix hundred feet by four hundred and eighty, and not lefs than fixty feet in height, with four regular fronts, inclofing twenty-eight quadrangles. It colt thirty-feven millions of reals, or about three hundred and feventy thoufand pounds. At prefent, no more than [ 3*9 ] than feventeen hundred workmen are em- ployed, and one hundred horfes or mules ; but formerly, three thoufand men were en- gaged, and near four hundred horfes. This falling off is attributed to mifmanagement, and to the reluctance with which they con- fented to deftroy their damaged tobacco. They have now changed this fyftem; and, not many days before my arrival, they condemned to the flames fifteen thoufand pounds weight as unfit for ufe. Yet the high price of the commodity reflrains the fale j for, fince they raifed the tobacco from thirty to forty reals, that is, from about fix to eight millings a pound, the demand has gradually lefiened. From the year 1780, the annual fale has been, of tobacco from Brazil, one million five hundred thoufand pounds, purchafed from the Portuguefe, at three reals a pound ; and of muff, from the produce of their own colonies, one million fix hundred thoufand pounds, befide cigars to a very considerable amount. They have lying by them, more than five millions of fnuff unfold ; but, as it will not fuffer by age, they are not uneafy at this accumula- tion. Befide the peculiar kind of fnuff, with which [ 33° ] which Spain was accuftomed to fupply the market, they have lately introduced the manufacture of rappee. There was a ne- ceflity for this, in order to put a flop to an illicit trade ; for whilft the king was felling at fixty, and fometimes at fourfcore reals a pound, the fmugglers fold the fame com- modity at forty, having themfelves pur- chafed it in France, from the farmers of tobacco, at fifteen ; but, now that govern- ment fells good rappee at twenty-four reals, the fmuggler's profit will not compenfate for the rifk. In this branch alone are em- ployed, at prefent, two hundred and twenty people, old and young, with fixteen mules -> but they mean to pufh their trade, when they can get a fufficient quantity of tobacco, and to engage five times as many hands. The operations are fo numerous before the rappee is* fit for market, that they require a multitude of workmen. Whilft fome are employed to unbind the little bundles of tobacco, others are occupied in picking the leafy fubftance from the hard ftems, Some are engaged in dying, others either in ftrain- ing and preffing; or in fpinning the leaf in- to ropes, and winding it up into rollers to be [ 33 1 ] be faggoted and prelfed, till a parcel of eigh- teen inches long, and two and an half inches in diameter, will weigh fix pounds. Thefe operations being finifhed, it is laid in heaps to fweat nine months ; after which, it is cut and lifted, then grated, once more lifted, and finally packed up in canifters for fale. All the workmen depolit their cloaks at the door, and, when they go out, are fo ftrictly examined, that they have little chance of being able to conceal tobacco; yet they fometimes venture to hide it about their perfons. An officer and a guard is always attending to take delinquents into cuftody ; and, that they may prevent relift- ance, no workman is permitted to enter with a knife. Were it not for this pre- caution, the confequence of a detection might be fatal. The whole bulinefs is conducted by a director, with a falary of forty thoufand reals a year, and fifty-four fuperior officers, affilt.- ed by as many fubordinate to them. For grinding their fnufF, they have forty mills, each confining of a Hone-roller, moved by a large horfe, or mule, with the traces t 33 2 1 traces fattened to a beam of eight feet in length, in the angle of forty-five degrees, confequently lofing precifely half his force. I endeavoured to explain this to the officer who condudted me through the works, but he could not comprehend it. He is brother to the unfortunate young woman, who, in the year 1774, at S. Lucar, bled before the altar, a victim to the unhallowed pafiion, with which her beauty had infpired the prieft. This wretch, whilft receiving her confeffions, had declared himfelf her lover ; but, at laft, enraged at the obftinate refill - ance of a virtuous mind, he turned his back upon the altar, where he had been partaking of the confecrated bread, and {tabbed her, in the prefence of her mother. For this moll: atrocious of all crimes, he was — mocking to relate ! — fuffered to live in ba- nimment at Porto Rico. The filk manufacture was formerly con- iiderable in Seville. When Ferdinand III. furnamed el Santo, (in the year 1248) en- tered the city, he found, as it is faid, fixteen thoufand looms, which employed a hun- dred and thirty thoufand perfons ; and fuch was the population of the city, that the Moors, [ 333 1 Moors, who left it when it was furrendered to the Christians, were four hundred thou- fand, befide multitudes who died during a fixteen months fiege, and many who re- mained after their fellow citizens were gone. Alfonzo, furnamed el Sabio, feeing the importance of this manufacture, gave it every pofiible encouragement; and, trade being chiefly confined to Seville, on the firft difcovery of America j (A. D. 1519,) they once more reckoned fixteen thoufand looms -, but the millones, impofed at the latter end of the reign of Philip II. to de- fray the expence of his wars, gave a (hock to commerce, and the frequent alteration in the relative value of their money, with the expuliion of the Moors, almoft ruined this once wealthy city. Added to this, in the year 1649 more than two hundred thou- fand perfons died of an epidemical difeafe in Spain. In confequence of thefe misfor- tunes, (A. D. 1655,) there remained only fixty looms in Seville. After the acceffion of a new family, the weavers amounted (A. D. 171 3,) to four hundred and five: but in the year 172 1, the farmers of the tax { 334 ] tax on filk having collected with rigour the fourteen per cent, for the alcavala and cientos, they not only ruined the manufac- ture, but reduced the revenue from eight hundred thoufand reals to lefs than fixteen thoufand. Philip, however, giving atten- tion to this important bufmefs, trade re- vived, and (A. D. 1732) the looms amount- ed to one thoufand. War with England reduced them fuddenly, and A. D. 1739 they were only a hundred and forty. Since the remonftrances of Bernardo de Ulloa, (A. D. 1740) the taxes have no longer been left to the rapacity of farmers, the alcavala has been taken off; and, by the laft account, the looms amounted to four hundred and fixty-two for wide filks, with one thoufand eight hundred and fifty-fix for other pur- pofes. Each loom is allowed annually, if for wide work, a hundred pounds of filk duty free -, if for narrow, they receive four- fcore. Whenever the navigation of the river ihall be reftored to the condition, in which it was when Magellan with five mips failed from hence for thofe ftraits, which have been called by his name - $ and when free- .6 dom. I 335 ] dom, civil and religious, (hall once more lift up her head in Spain ; new channels .will be opened for reviving commerce, and Seville will be reftored to her ancient fplendor. The art of tanning is perhaps no where fo ill condu&ed as in Spain ; in no part of which can good leather be procured, unlefs it come from England. Senfible of this, the minifter of finance became anxious to induce fome ftranger, fkilful in the bufi- nefs, to take up his refidence in Spain. Whilft he had this idea in his mind, chance threw in his way a tradefman travelling to receive orders, and to get in debts for him- felf and partners, who, as leather-cutters, have a mop on Snow-hill, in London. It immediately occurred to the minifter, that he had found his man ; and therefore, fend- ing for him, without lofs of time, he in- vited him to fettle as a currier and a tanner. This gentleman, confcious to himfelf that he was not properly qualified to conduct a bufinefs, to which he had not been bred, withftood his folicitations, and refufed the mod advantageous terms : but at length, after confidering the matter in every point of' [ 336 ] of view, he accepted the offer, and con- ferred to eftablifh himfelf at Seville. I vifited his tan -yard, and found him happy in the protection he enjoys. The minifter has given him the convent of the Jefuits, and about feven acres of good land, rent free, with the pre-emption of hides from Buenos Ayres, and of all fkins from the Spanifh fettlements -, befide the privilege of cutting down, for bark, all the trees grow- ing, either in the royal forefts, or on the lands of private perfons* within a given diftance of the city, He ufes the inner bark taken from the cork-tree, with myrtle leaves, which fcrve his purpofe tolerably well; yet are by no means equal in llrength to the bark of oak. He fays, that the Spa- niards underftand the art of tanning j but - that they want fpirit, induftry, and capital for fuch extenfive undertakings ; and .1 am inclined to think, that his obfervation is well founded* Finding him a man of acti- vity, with a command of money, the mi- nifter has given him a contract to furnifh boots and belts for the cavalry,, and a va- riety of other articles, fuch as fpurs and buckles, not connected with his peculiar 1 trade. [ 337 ] trade. He is certainly a treafure to the Spaniards, both for application and for weight of capital, and, I have no doubt, will pufh this new eftablifhment as far as it can go, provided government fhall con- tinue to protect him. Having been introduced to D. Juan Al- varez, the intendant of the mint, I vifited his office, in which at prefent a few work- men find occafional employment ; whereas formerly one hundred and eighty were con- ftantly engaged. They have here the fame flow procefs as at London and in Paris, in confequence of which their coinage is ex- penfive ; whilil in Birmingham the opera- tion, by a new invention, is expedited, and performed at a trifling expence. In traverfing the ftreets, I was ftruck with the multitude of beggars clothed in rags ; and was at firft inclined to attribute this to the decay of trade; but, upon exami- nation, I found a more abiding caufe in the diftribution of alms at the archbifhop's palace, and at the gates of twenty convents, daily, and without distinction, to all who make application for relief. Such mil- placed benevolence is a bar to induftry, and Vol. II. Z multiplies [ 338 ] multiplies the objects of diitrefs, whofe numbers bear exact proportion to the pro- viiion made for their fupport. To have this principle rightly underflood is of fuch importance, that I can never let one oppor- tunity efcape of bringing it into view. My time parTed away pleafantly at Seville. The mornings I employed in viewing whatever was moil worthy of attention in the city, or in little excurfions to the coun- try. At noon I paid my refpects to the good archbifhop, dined and took the Siefta at his palace y after which I fometimes went out in the carriage with his grace, at other times joined the company in the Alameda, or public walk ; and clofed the day either with the archbifhop, or in the family of fome cheerful friend. The fea- fon of Lent is not favourable to gaiety, becaufe it does not admit of the ufual di- verfions ; yet I had always reafon to be fa- tisfied with my evening's entertainment. The archbimop received only gentlemen for converfation. In other houfes they have generally fome round game at cards; but the family, in which I delighted molt, was that of a canon, for whofe £ft.er I had the t [ 339 ] the honour to be confulted as a phyfician'. The cafe was highly interesting ; an epi- lepfy, arifing from extreme fenfibility ; and I pleafed myfelf with the idea, that I was ufeful to her. My recompence was to enjoy her converfation, and to hear her fing. In one of my morning vifits at the arch- bifhop's palace, I had the fatisfaction of being prefent at an oppofition, or difputa- tion, between the candidates for a vacant benefice ; a fcene admirably defcribed, by the author of Gil Bias. Vehemence, on fuch an occaiion, is not only fanctioned by cuftom, but is certainly excufable, in men who are contending, not merely for fame, but bread. The judges are the diocefan, affifted by fix of the chapter; and the ex- aminations are in the fciences, ethics, divi- nity, and canon law. Many ecclefiaitical preferments are difpofed of in this way. Thus in every cathedral four canons are chofen by oppofition, and are faid to be de merito ; thefe are, the penitentiary, for re- ceiving the confeiiions of the chapter j the preacher; the profeflor of theology ; and the civilian, who conducts their law-fuits. The reit are given through favour, either Z 2 ' hf . t 34° ] by the diocefan, the chapter, or the king, according to the month in which the va- cancy happens. When a candidate makes application to the great, either for protection in general, or upon a fpecial occafion for preferment, he prefents a printed copy of his memorial, ftiled " Relation de los Meritos, titulos, grados y exercicios, literarios de A. B." of which the original is lodged with the fecretary of ftate, and contains his name ; the place of his nativity; his rank; his age; the univerfity, in which he ftudied, with the degrees he has taken; his acquirements; his conducl in his profeiTion, as a prieft, as a preacher, and as a confefTor; fetting forth his regularity, his zeal, and his fuccefs, with his peculiar privileges, fuch as that he is permitted to read the prohibited books, and to confefs both fexes; and bat- ing, finally, that he is every way qualified to receive anyecclefiaftical preferment to which he may be prefented. One day, when I was at the archbifhop's palace, the old librarian took me afide, and requefled me to make application for him to obtain a living then vacant, and in the gift of the crown, defiring me to write immedi- 4 ately [ 34i ] ately to count Florida Blanca, and to inclofe his Relacion de meritos. This, I remember, flated, in the lift of his acquirements, that he had learnt Hebrew, that he had been examined in the verbs, but that he had ne- ver been rich enough to purchafe a lexicon. I made the application through our mini- iler, and obtained the promife of a living for him j but not that for which he thenfolicited. Not far from the city is a building, now verging to decay, near to which I often pafTed, without aflung for what it was de- figned i but, one evening, walking with the gentleman to whom I had been recom- mended by count Florida Blanca, ftruck with its form, I defired him to tell me what purpofe it had ferved. At firft he feemed to pay no attention ; but, upon my repeating the queftion, I received an evafive anfwer, fuch as tended only to awaken my curio- fity, and to make me more urgent with him for information, At laft he told me, that this ftrange kind of edifice is called el Que- madero -, but begged that I would never dif- clofe to any one, from whom I had received niy information. The name was fufficient, together with the form, without further Z 3 inquiries, [ 342 ] inquiries, to explain the horrid ufe to which it had been too often put. I urged him no further on the fubjectj and, without lofs of time, haflened from a fpot which my imagination painted all in flames. The next day, however, I returned with one of the judges, who, as fuch, could venture to be more communicative. In anfwer to my queftions, he informed me, that the £>ue- ?nadero, fo called from the verb qmmar, to burn, ferved the purpofe of a fcaffold for burning heretics ; and that, about four years before, a woman had fullered on it, by a fentence of the inquiiition, to which he had ^iven his fanction. From him, and from others, I obtained the following par- ticulars. This woman was a beata, pro- feffing one of the three vows impofed on nuns, of which, poverty and obedience are the regular companions ; yet that vow me broke. In the accufation fhe was charged with having corrupted her confeffor ; who, poor man ! as the leaf! culpable of the two, was merely banifhed. Had this been her fble offence, it had been punifhed with lefs diftingu idled feverity ; bur, not fatisfied with having been guilty of facrilege in one inliance. [ 343 1 inftance, (he went on corrupting the prieft- hood ; and, either from pailion or from va- nity, extended daily, over the fervants of the altar, the dominion of her charms; till, either by pride, or by remorfe of confcience, me loft her understanding, and foolilhly imagined that (he was acting under a di- vine authority. Some fay, that (he vindi- cated her conduct upon the principle, that both parties were free from obligation j but others, and more juftly, fay, that (lie pre- tended to have feen an angel. This being a crime within the cognizance of the in- quifitors, (he was brought to trial, was con- victed, and was burnt. Excited by this narration, I had the curi- ofity to vifit the court of the inquifition. It was formerly a convent of the Jefuits, and is fo light and elegant, that I could fcarcely conceive it to contain the dreadful tribunal and gloomy dungeons. I went into the chapel, and the hall of judgment, and ven- tured to afk fome queftions -, but could ob- tain no anfwer: filence and folitude feemed to have eftablimed their dominion there. The inquifition is certainly lefs formida- ble now, fince light is every where dirrufed, Z 4 than [ 344 ] than it was in darker ages, when fuperfti- tion reigned; and the inquifitors of the prefent day, if not more humane, are at leaft more humble, than their predeceifors in remoter periods. Yet we muft confefs, that, whilft. their authority remains, it will be ever fubjecT: to abufe. Every one knows the hiftory and the fate of Don Pablo Olavide. The real caufe of his difgrace, was neither his impiety nor his immorality, but his hatred of the monks ; who, in re- turn, became his implacable enemies, and never ceafed to perfecute him, till they had banifhed him from Spain. They never could forget, that in the Sierra Morena he had built his houfe precifely on the fpot where had flood a convent, a convent which ferved as an afylum for the robbers, with whom the venerable fathers had been accuftomed to divide their plunder. Nor could they forgive his having made it a fundamental law of his new fettlements, that they mould have no monks. Unfor- tunately, he had married a rich woman, who was neither young nor handfome, and, by her means, the monks became acquainted with fuch circumstances as might haye otherwife [ 345 ] otherwife efcaped them, and were enabled to treafure up againfl him every unguarded expreffion, which at any time efcaped his lips. This valuable citizen was taken out of his bed, the 14th of November, 1776, and, after being fhut up twelve months in the prifon of the inquifition, his fentence was publicly read 5 all his effects were con- fifcated for the ufe of the inquifitors his judges, and he was condemned to eight years confinement in a convent. It muff, be confefTed, that in the* perfon of Olavide, the inquifitors flew at noble game ; but, a few years after this, they refembled the eagle, when fhe ftoops to feed on carrion. The hiffory of this trans- action is worthy to be recorded. I fhall, therefore, give it from the relation of one who was prefent at the Auto de Fe, cele- brated in the conventual church of S. Do- mingo, in Madrid, the 9th of May, 1784, when the whole procefs was publicly read. The principal actor in this farce was Ignacio Rodriguez, a beggar. The firfl profefiion of this man was arms ; but of fris conduct in that line little has tranf- pired. [ 346 ] pired. It is certain, that he was with count O'Reilly in the unfortunate expedi- tion againfl Algiers, where he was wounded in the leg. In confequence of this he was ■difcharged as an invalid, and had an offer of the ufual penfion -, but he chofe rather to cafe himfelf on the public, and to enjoy his liberty, than to be loft in obfeurity with his companions. For this purpofe, he was careful to keep his wound from healing; and, fuch was his addrefs, that he procured a comfortable living, or rather, as it ap- peared, fared fumptuoufly every day. After fome years, he was fo unfortunate as to attract the attention of D. Bernardo Cantero, the intendant general of the po- lice, who, feeing him from day to day, in- quired for what reafon he kept his wound open, and ordered him to have it healed. Rodriguez, not knowing to whom he fpoke, replied with infolence, " I afk alms, and not advice." This ill-timed anfwer proved his ruin. The intendant, ftruck with his appear-, ance, and offended with his infolence, watched him, and having obferved fome- thing uncommon in a long converfation between [ 347 ] between him and a female, called Juliana Lopez, caufed her to be followed, and ar- retted. This woman, although artful, being taken by furprife, was confufed, and foon confeffed, that the paper me had delivered to the beggar contained fome materials for making love powder. On this evi- dence Rodriguez was taken into cuftody, with a female named Anp-ela Barrios, who, being a woman of inferior talents, acted under them, and was employed only in commimons of no great importance. All three being committed to the common jail, were frequently queftioned, and the refult of their examination was laid before the king, who, by the advice of his confeilbr, referred the matter to the inquiiitors. In confequence of this the prifoners were re- moved, and confined in the prifon of the inquiiition. No tribunal has fuch advantages in tra- cing out the truth, nor can any other invef- tigate a dark transaction with fuch a cer- tainty of fuccefs as this court. Unfettered by forms, and not limited for time, they are at liberty to bring whom they pleafe be- fore them, to take them from their beds in the t 348 ] the middle of the night, to examine them by furprife, to terrify their imaginations, to torment their bodies, to ftretch them on the rack, and to crofs examine them at dis- tant periods. With thefe advantages, the impoftor was made to confefs the whole of his practices, with all the moft minute par- ticulars, and the names of the parties to whom he had fold his powder. He explain- ed, in his confeffion, the materials of which he had compofed it; but thefe, to a modeft ear, mould never have been mentioned ; and he acknowledged, that every female, after taking it, had been obliged to grant him whatever he chofe to afk, without which the charm was to have no eifed. Whenever he adminiflered it, he muttered fome necro- mantic formula, that he might give an air of myftery to the tranfadlion, and infpire the mind with confidence in its fuccefs. Juliana Lopez, his alfociate, ferved h : m as an emhTary and a panegyrift ; and that fhe might in all refpects lend herfelf to his views and to his wifhes, fhe hired a conve- nient garden, to which he might retire at all feafons, whenever it fuited his conve- nience, Angela [ 349 ] Angela Barrios acted as a fervant to the others, and being of a weak understanding, was never admitted to their confidence. Fidelity and filence on her part were fome- times however requifite, and in thefe fhe never failed. The procefs, according to cuftom, con- tained the moil minute particulars. Their crimes were proved by a multitude of tef- timonies, and their guilt was confirmed by their own confeffions. From thefe it ap- peared, that his powder was adminiftered to perfons of all ranks; and one of the in- quifitors has fince informed me, that many ladies of high fafhion in Madrid were duped by him, although out of tendernefs their names had been concealed. When the procefs was gone through, the judges refolved to celebrate an Auto de Fe publicly in the church of the Padres del Salvador, but the king would not con- fent, that the nuns of S. Domingo mould iofe their privilege of having the Auto in their church. The inquifitors gave way, but fent a requeft, that the nuns might not be admitted to the grate, left their ears fhould be offended, and the purity of their imagina- [ 35° ] imagination? fhould be defiled. This mef- fage had the effect, which might have been expected. Their curiofity was the more excited, and of all the nuns four only were abfent from the grate. On the day appointed, at fix in the morning, the people began to affemble in the ftreet of the inquifition, and the troops took their ftation to preferve good order. About eight the beggar left his dungeon, leaning on his crutches, and attended by a capuchin friar of no refpeclable appearance, named Father Cardenas. As foon as he appeared in court, he fell upon his knees before one of the inquifitors, who with the greateft mildnefs and gentlenefs addreffed him thus: " My fon, you- are going to " hear the relation of your crimes, and the " fentence pronounced for the expiation of your guilt. Our lenity is great, be- caufe our holy tribunal, always moft in- " dukenr, feeks rather to reform than " punifh. Let your forrow flow from ** your confcioufnefs of guilt, and not from " a fenfe of the difgrace you fuffer." This exhortation ended, which is the fame, even when the criminal is committed to it it [ 3S? ] to the flames, they proceeded to throw over the moulders of the beggar his fan benito, or more properly his faco bcndito, being the fackcloth with S. Andrew's crofs, anciently worn by penitents. On his head they placed the cap with ferpents, lizards, and blackbeetles, a green candle in his hand, and round his neck a halter. To Juliana Lopez the fame fpeech was made, and when (he had been clothed in limilar attire, me flood, although not with equal confidence, near to her companion. Laft of all came forth Angela Barrios, who, trembling and bathed in tears, fell down upon her knees, and begged the in- quifitors to fpare her life. She was an- f we red, that the holy tribunal was not ac- cuftomed to put any one to death -, that they would do her no harm ; and that as her offence was not equal to that of her companions, they had not even provided for her a fan benito, the difgraceful badge r by which all, who have worn it, are render- ed, with their families, infamous for ever. When every thing was thus arranged, the procefiion began to move. In front marched foldiers to clear the way; then ap- peared t 35 2 ] peared the ftandard of the holy office, flip- ported by alguazils, and followed by fami- liars, with the learned do&ors of the inqui- fition; next advanced the beggar, fupported by his crutches, and attended by two fecre- taries, who carried the whole procefs in a box lined with velvet; and the little capu- chin, as conferTor, with the Marquis of Cogolludo, fon to the Duke of Medina Coeli, of the blood royal, and the firft nobleman in Spain, as alguazil mayor, brought up the rear. No fooner had the pageant entered the church than mafs began ; after which they read the procefs in the hearing of the whole affembly, which confided of the principal nobility, with all the ladies of the court, who had been invited by la Marquefa de Cogolludo, and fat with her on a ftage raifed for this occafion. The fecretaries were frequently inter- rupted in reading by loud burfls of laughter, in which the beggar joined. The mirth was, however, in fome breafts, attended with a degree of trepidation, when in the procefs circumftances were related, iri which ladies who were prefent, had been concerned, [ 353 } concerned, and who expected every moment to be named. After the whole of the procefs had been read, the chief inquifitor rang a little bell, and the prifoners drew nigh to hear their fentence. That of Ignacio Rodriguez was, to be whipped through the ftreets of Madrid, to be inftructed and fortified in the myfleries of the catholic faith by a fpiritual guide ap- pointed by the court, with whom he was to go through holy exercifes for one month, farting on the Fridays on bread and water ; and at the end of this period he was to make a general confeflion. He was to be five years (hut up in the penitentiary houfe of Toledo, and afterwards to be banifhed for ever from Madrid and from the royal manfions, with an obligation to inform the holy office wherever he mould happen to refide. The fentence of the other was not fo fevere. The whole ceremony ended about three in the afternoon. The day following, the beggar, naked down to his waift, was mounted on an afs, attended by the Marquis of Cogolludo. Thus accompanied, the impoflor was con- Vol. II. A a du&ed ( [ 354 3 ducted through the ftreets, but without re- ceiving any ftripes j and as he proceeded, he was frequently refreshed by his friends with bifcuits and wine - y wnilft many, who knew not the nature of his offence, thinking him a heretic, cried out, viva la Virgen, viva Maria purijjiina, to which he replied, por mi que viva. This ceremony ended, the Marchionefs of Cogolludo gave a grand entertainment to the judges and officers of the inquifi- tion. Had it been the intention of the king to make the inquilition, preparatory to its abolition, contemptible in the eyes of the whole nation, he could not have taken any ftep more effectual for the purpofe, than he did, when he called upon that tribunal to examine into offences, which mould have been infinitely below its notice, and to ap- pear in the proceffion with a wretch, who mould have been punimed in fecret by the vilefl minifter of juftice. Others have given the hifbory of this execrable tribunal, both as to its origin and progrefs, together with the form of its proceedings, and cruel treatment of its pri- loners. [ iss i foners. Upon thefe particulars I mall be filent ; but I muft obferve that the original inquifition, armed with dreadful powers, un- der the appellation of the Spiritual Court, ftill exifts in England ; where, as in Spain, the poor fuffer moll by the abufl* of its au- thority. The ferpent with us appears to have loft its venom : it is torpid, but not dead, and fhould, at any future period, our government be changed ; it may revive, and be as deftructive to our children as it has already been to our progenitors. In the vicinity of Seville is a curious monument of antiquity, the amphitheatre of Italica, highly worthy the attention of all, who are fond of fuch remains, but to me they were little interefting. It is an oval of two hundred and ninety-one feet by two hundred and four. If we may judge of Italica by the extent of its ruins, it was a considerable city, and although fo little now is to be feen above the furfacc of the foil, yet we know that formerly it was a bifhop's fee, and prior to that period, it gave birth to Trajan, to Adrian, and to Theodofius. The country round the city to a confi- A a 2 derabl* [ 356 ] derable diftance lies fo low, that it is fre- quently overflowed, and upon fome occa- fions the water has been eight feet high, even in their habitations. The foil is rich, and being at the fame time very deep, its fertility is inexhaurtible. The produce is corn, leguminous plants, hemp, flax, lemons, oranges and liquorice. The quan- tity of this exported from Spain is faid to be annually not lefs than four thoufand quintals, or nearly two hundred tons, a confiderable part of which is fuppofed to be purchafed by the porter-brewers in Lon- don. Could they be prevailed upon to omit the cocculus indicus, they might be permitted to ufe the liquorice without re- straint. I had the curiofity to make inquiries at the cuflom-houfe in London, where I found that the principal marts for this pro- duce were formally Italy and French Flan- ders, but that of late the importation from Spain has rapidly increafed, and that from being only two tons feventeen hundred weight three quarters and iixteen pounds, in the year 1785, it became fifty-eight tons three hundred weight one quarter and four- teen [ 357 ] teen pounds, in the year 1788. The whole quantity imported, I found to be as follows : Tons. Cwt. Q^». lb. 1785, into London and the out- ports 109 14. 3 18 1786, ditto 150 2314 1787, ditto 128. 19 o 16 1788, ditto , 183 1 o 17 In this period the proportion of the out- ports has increafed from twenty-four tons eleven hundred weight two quarters and twenty-five pounds, to fifty-five tons four- teen hundred weight two quarters and fif- teen pounds. From which circumftance we may colled:, that London has taught the country brewers the ufe of this innocent and pleafant drug in making porter. In confeque.nce of vapours and miafmata, occaiioned by ftagnant water, and by fre- quent floods, the inhabitants of Seville and its neighbourhood are fubjecl to tertians, to putrid fe'vers, and to hifterical diforders. The pre-difpoiition to fuch difeafes may be likewife fought for in the quantity of cu- cumbers and melons confumed by them all the year, in confequence of which they are A a 3 lil [ 358 ] likewife infefted with worms, accompanied with epilepfies, efpecially in the more youthful fubjedls. This connection I have frequently had occafion to obferve - f and, from this circumftance, I comprehend the principle on which an able phyfician is mentioned, in the London Prattice ofPhyfic > to have ordered the powder of tin, in a cafe of epilepfy. Yet, I mult acknowledge a fufpicion, that the compiler of that valu- able work, who appears to have been fome old apothecary in extenfive practice, did not difcover, at the time when he made a memorandum of the cafe, that the phyfi- cian was then prefcribing to the occafional caufe, and not to the difeafe. The ikill of a practitioner is difcerned, not merely by his readinefs in diftinguifhing difeafes, but by his attention to their pre-difpofmg caufes. The empyric, often fatisiied with prefcribing to the fymptom, is liable to be fatally miftaken in his diftinctions, and never attempts to investigate the caufe. Hence it is, that the publication of for- mulae, fuch as thofe to which I have re- ferred, will never be ufeful to him, or in- deed to any one, who has not been regularly 5 t* re 4 [" 359 ] bred to the profefiion. The fcience of phy- fic is not fo eafily acquired as fome have imagined, and have been taught to think by phyficians, who, with the appearance of difintereftednefs and candour, have pub- limed their fyflems of domeftic medicine. To diftinguifh difeafes, and to invefligate their caufe, requires much knowledge, deep reflection, and a natural fagacity, to be im- proved by reading, and by extenfive prac- tice. Even the moft fkilful and attentive are fometimes miflaken ; and at this we mall not be furprifed, if we confider the vaft variety of difeafes, to which the hu- man frame is fubjedt. The bare infpection of any fyftem of nofology will be fufficient to convince a reafonable man that the fci- ence is abftrufe. In the Nofologia Metho- dica of Sauvage, we find ten claffes, forty- three orders, and more than three hundred genera, in many of which are from ten to twenty fpecies, each diftinguifhed from the other, and denominated by its occa- fional caufe. Dr. Cullen has indeed re- duced the number both of genera and fpe- cies, by confidering many of them as fymp- tgmatic of other difeafes, and not as idiopa- A a 4 thic ; [ 360 ] thic , yet even this diftinction mews more clearly the abftrufenefs of the fcience, and how liable they muft be, who are not per- fectly inftructed, to make miflakes. I have dwelt upon this fuDJe£t, from a firm perfua- fion, that " fyflems of domeftic medicine" have done much mifchief to mankind, and that the moft dangerous mca, which can be impreffed upon the mind is, that " every man may be his own phyfician." In a coun- try like Spain, a perfon not bred to the profeflion may be reduced to the neceffity of prefcribing to his neighbours - y but in England, this pradice, unlefs in the clear- eft cafes, is much to be condemned. I have mentioned the diieafes incident to the inhabitants of Seville, arifing from hu- midity ; but others there are which origi- nate in heat. Whenever they have the So- lano wind, that is, whenever the wind blows from Africa, they become liable to pleuri- fies; but what is chiefly complained of, both by phyficians and by magiftrates, is an irrita- bility of nerves, influencing the morals in a variety of ways. Before I quitted Seville, according to my ufual practice, I enquired into the price of labour E 361 1 labour and provifions. They are as fol- low : Day labourers, four reals and an half, or about 1 old. Carpenters, from feven to eleven reals a day. Joiners, if good workmen, twenty-four reals, or /\.s. gd. Weavers, with diligence, will earn fifteen reals, or 3J-. Bread, from fixteen to twenty-eight quartos, or \\d. to j\ d. for three pounds of lixteen ounces. Beef, thirty quartos for thirty - two ounces, or about $\d. a pound of lixteen ounces. Mutton, thirty-eight quartos, ditto, or ci±d. ditto. Kid, twenty-four quartos ditto, or 3J-A. ditto. Pork, thirty -fix to forty -two quartos ditto, or 5t^/. to sl°J- ditto. A. D. 1731* the whole confumption of flefli in Seville was one million k\en hun- dred ninety-two thoufand two hundred and feventy-nine pounds ; of which the ecclefiaftics had eight hundred eleven thou- fand [ 3^ ] fand and ninety-one pounds, free from taxes ; the pounds being here of thirty-two ounces, or two pounds each avoirdupois. The price of wheat, at different periods, and at different feafons of the year, has been fo remarkable, that I (hall fubjoin a table. Price of the Fanega of Wheat at Seville. A. D. Months. Reals. A. D. Months. Reals. 1652. April 80 tO 120! 1752. April 38. July 42 to 45 July 25 t0 33 1655. April 1 4 to 20' l 755- April 16 to 22 July 13 to 17 Juty 1 3 to 1 8 1657. April 1 1 to 1 8| l 7S7- April 25 to 29 J^y 1 6 to 23 July 1 8 to 27 1660. April 45 t0 53 1760. April 29 to 36 July 22 to 27 July 30 to 37 l66l. April 17 to 22' 1761. April 30 to 37 July 2 1 to 28; July 24 to 32 If we reckon the fanega at one hundred and nine pounds and an half, and the bufTiel at feventy, then the higheir. price, A. D. 1.652, will be equal to i$s. %\d, the bufhel, and the loweft price, A. D. 1657, to is. 4!*/. In t 363 ] In the correfponding periods, as taken from Smith's Wealth of Nations, the higheft price is js. 6d. and the loweft 3^. gd. Had the commerce of corn been unreftaincd, the price in Spain could never have varied in fuch wide extremes, to the deftruction of manufactures. When I had fatisfied my curiofity at Se- ville, and had refolved next to vifit Cadiz, I fent and hired the cabin of a pailage-boat, which was to leave the city in the evening, and falling down the Guadalquivir, was to arrive in about fix and thirty hours at S. Lucar. The common price for every pafTenger is eight reals, or about is. yd. but for the whole cabin I paid twenty reals, or a hard dollar, being a fmall fraction under four (hillings fterling. In this I had no great bargain, becaufe my apartment was not more than fix feet by five, and about three feet high. My only comfort was, that I could ftretch myfelf at night upon a bear fkin, and law myfelf by day fep-.irat.ed from a multitude, fome of whom were not remarkable for cleanlinefs. Among the rabble, I obferved a young Franciii [ 3«4 ] FYancifcan friar, and a genteel French merchant, who by no means feemed to be fatisfied with their fituation. At the clo- fing of the day, the whole affembly joined in the Ave Maria, our young friar taking the lead, and diftinguiming himfelf by the ilrength and melody of his voice ; after which he entertained the company with fome goo&fequidillas, tiranas, and other Spa- nim fongs. I was fo well fatisfied with his voice and manner, that in the morning I invited him to my cabin, and was delighted to find in him a pleafant and converfable companion. The wind was favourable, the iky was clear, and the courfe being nearly in one ftraight line, little attention was required to the helm. In fuch circumflances it was not to be wondered at, that :©ur Palinurus, who had been watching all the night, mould be inclined to nod by day. But whilft Deep had taken porTefiion of his eye-lids, his at- tention feemed to be awake, for when at any time, by the fhifting of the wind, either the direction or degree of preifure of the helm was varied, he inftantly moved his hand, and even before he opened his eyes, 3 he [ 365 ] he put the veffel right. Thus it is refpect- ing founds. No noife, however violent, roufes thofe who are accuftomed to hear it ; but, if it be unufual, or if it be fuch as would call them to action when awake, al- though moderate, it makes them ftart : thus it feems as if the foul was capable of exercifing judgment during ileep. The country all the way, for the fpace of twenty leagues between Seville and S- Lucar, is flat, the foil is deep, and the paf- tures are covered with a perpetual ver- dure. In this little voyage I was fo well pleafed with my young friar, that I bore his ex- pences, agreed to take him for my compa- nion and my guide as far as Cadiz ; and, fuch was the confidence I repofed in him, that when we had landed on the beach, and taken horfes to S. Lucar, I committed my baggage to his care, whilit I haftened to pay my compliments to our conful ; but, to my aftonimment, on my return, I found that I had been cherifhing a thief. He would have made an apology \ but, as I wanted no explanation, when I had ocular demonstration, I took my leave, without reproaching r 366 j reproaching his ingratitude ; and hiring horfes, I made the befr. of my way towards Cadiz. The country is hilly, the foil at a lower level, and near the fea, is fand ; but all the intermediate fpace is a ftiff clay, and the road is abominably bad. The diftance is fix leagues. About mid- way I counted twenty teams of oxen tilling one piece of land. The plough is by no means fuited to the foil, having no fin to the fhare, no coulter, nor any mould-board ; but, inftead of the latter, two wooden pins. This, in light fand, may anfwer very well, but is certainly little calculated to fubdue a ftubborn clay. The higher!: of the hills, expofed to the meri- dian fun, have vines, and the fcene is often beautifully varied by extenfive plantations of the olive. As foon as I arrived at Puerto de Santa Maria, I enquired for the paffage-boat to Cadiz. They informed me at the pofada, that no wherry would pafs that day. I, however, prelfed forward to the beach, where I was foon furrounded by a number of watermen, who all allured me, that I was [ 3*7 ] was come too late for the common paffage- boat, but that for two hard dollars I might have a vefTel to myfelf. Unwilling to be detained all day, I agreed, and was con- ducted to a boat half filled with palfengers, and, after waiting near an hour for the full complement, we fet fail. As the wind was fair, we foon made our paffage; and, on quitting the boat, I had the mortification to fee each perfon pay two reals, or four pence halfpenny, inflead of two hard dol- lars, or eight millings; but it was to no purpofe to complain. CADIZ. A D I Z. TH E city of Cadiz occupies a pro- montory at the extremity of a pe- ninfula, and is joined to the ifle of Leon only by a caufeway. It is warned to the eaftward by the gentle waves of a well pro- tected road j but, to the weft ward, it is open and expofed to the fury of the ocean. The ftreets are narrow, yet well paved and clean. The moil beautiful part of the city looks towards the Puerto de Santa Maria, where the houfes are lofty, built of white free-ftone,. and ornamented with painted balconies. They have in front a wide pa- rade, well gravelled, planted with trees, and communicating with the fea-road, where the merchantmen and mips of war find fhelter. Two [ 369 ] Two confiderable fquares, one for the market, the other called Plaza de San An- tonioy with the Calk Ancha joining to it by way of mall, contribute both to beauty and to health ; and the whole city being nearly furrounded by a rampart, this- forms an ele- vated, airy, and delightful walk, much fre- quented in the evenings. The moft advantageous view of Cadiz and its environs may be had from the fig- nal tower : from whence you look immedi- ately down upon the houfes, whofe flat roofs, covered with a white cement, have a fingular yet moll: pleafing appearance. To the weftward, you command the ocean, with numerous veffels, fome ftretching away, others entering the harbour j and, on the land fide, you difcover the four interefl- ing fea-port towns of Rota, Santa Maria, Port Royal, and Caraca, with the ifle of Leon, and the connecting caufeway, whilft a rich country, hanging towards the fetting fun, bounds the diftant profpect. They reckon now in Cadiz, not more than fixty-five thoufand nine hundred and eighty-feven fouls ; but, about ten years iince, it is faid to have contained eighty- Vol. II. B b five [ 37° ] five thoufand, befide about twenty thoufand people who entered daily from the fea, and from the adjacent country. For their pavements, for the cleanlinefs of their ilreets, for a well regulated police, for fome of their beft edifices, and for many wife institutions, they have been indebted to their late governor, Count O'Reilly. Previous to his appointment, this city was remarkable for filth and naftinefs ; and from the miftaken clemency of Bucarelli, the former governor, robberies were frequently committed, murders were not uncommon, and fuch was the infolence of thieves, that they gave public warning to the inhabi- tants, not to make a noife when they mould be flopped. The mod: diilinguifhed buildings are the two cathedrals, one ancient, the other not yet finifhed. The former is chiefly re- markable for fome good pictures, and for its treafures, confiiling of jems, filver can- dlesticks and lamps, both numerous and bulky; three cuftodias, one of which, con- structed of the finer! filver, weighs fifty- one arrobas, or more than half a ton ; an- other is moftlv of folid gold. The t 371 ] The new cathedral is a vaft pile, with large and lofty domes, and many well pro- portioned pillars ; yet the whole appears heavy and difgufting. The effect is owing to the fingle circumftance of its being loaded with a very projecting cornice, fuch as would not be void of elegance in a ro- tunda of vaft dimenfions, but by no means fuitable to an edifice, which abounds with angles. All who view this building are ftruck with the abfurdity of thefe prepofte- rous ornaments, yet the architect wants re- solution to retract them. It is not, how- ever, impoffible, that the waves may wipe away this difgrace to tafte,' becaufe they have begun their devaluations on that fide, and not more than ten feet are interpofed between the building and the fea. Near to the cathedral is the Plaza de Toros, for the bull-feafts, built intirely with wood, making externally a mean appearance ; but within, it is both pretty and commodious. I had been folicitous to fee the dexterity of • the moll famous matador in Spain, named Romero, but at this feafon the bull-feafts are prohibited. Not far from hence is the obfervatory, B b 2 in t 37 2 3 in a moft advantageous fituation ; but un- fortunately the instruments, although the beft that our Englifh artifts of the day- could furnilh, are neglected, and will foon be ruined. The academy for the three noble arts of painting, fculpture, and architecture, is at prefent, as a building, fcarcely worthy of attention. It will, however, be removed into the centre of the city, when a fufficient fund can be provided for that purpofe. In the convents are a few good pictures ; more efpecially in the cloifter of the Auguf- tin friars -, and in that of the capuchins we find fome moft worthy of attention, by Mu- rillo. In the garden of the Francifcans is the dragon's-blood-tree, mentioned by Quer, in his Botany of Spain. Of the three hofpitals, two are moft re- markable for neatnefs -, the third deferves reproach for filth and naftinefs -> yet this perhaps is the beft conducted for general utility. It is called the Royal or Military Hofpital, becaufe defigned for foldiers, and has fburfcore ftudents, who are maintained and educated at the king's expence. It has a good botanical garden, and a theatre for [ 373 ] for difTectio • furnifhed with fubjects from among the ; ients. One of the two dif- tinguifhed r neatnefs is fet apart for wo- men j the i ther, dedicated to San Juan de Dios, and figned for men, is elegant. All the war: are paved with marble in check- ers of bl k and white; and inftead of white walls, oi wainfcoting, or of ftucco, the fides are covered with Dutch tiles. In this hofpital, the beds having no cur- tains, I faw death in all its ftages, from its diftant approach to its doling fcene - y from ordinary difeafe to the laft and feebleft ftruggles, to the pale vifage, and the trem- bling lips of expiring naturei My atten- tion was directed towards each dying object by a crofs at the bed's head, which indi- cated, that he had received the facraments of the eucharift, and of extreme unction. To one, who had formerly walked an hofpi- tal ; to one, whole office leads him to at- tend the dying and the dead, death muft naturally have loft much of its terror -, but the view of fo many objects of diftrefs, inking under the prerTure of difeafe, I muft confefs, fpread a gloom over my mind, fuch as no one mould Jubjecl. him- B b 7 felf [ 374 ] felf to, unlefs he is either called to it in the way of duty, or is bleffed with peculiar fortitude of nerves. They have commonly in this hofpital more than fix thoufand patients, and out of thefe they annually lofe one tenth -, but at different feafons the proportion varies. Befide thefe hofpitals for the fick, there is a retreat for widows, founded by Juan Fragela, a Turkey merchant, born at Da- mafcus, and fettled at Cadiz, who died A. D. 1756, aged one hundred and four. In this hofpital forty-feven widows have each two good rooms, with a weekly al- lowance of fix reals. They appear to find in it a comfortable refuge. The mofl interefling eftablifhment in Cadiz, and the befl conducted of its kind in Spain, is the hofpicio, or general work- houfe. This building is large and lofty, handfome and commodious. In it are re- ceived the poor of every nation, who are unable to maintain themfelves, and in the firft place, orphans, deferted children, and the aged, who are puffed the capability for labour, the blind, the lame, idiots, and mad people, but efpecially priefts, when 9 aged [ 375 ] aged and reduced to poverty. Even Gran- gers paffing through the city, with permif- fion of the governor, may be entertained two days. Neatnefs universally prevails, and all, who are here received, are clean, well clothed, and have plenty of the beft provifions. Care is taken to innruct them in the chrif- tian doctrines, and every fix months the young people are publicly examined. Their education is to read, to write, to cad: ac- counts; and fuch as manifefr. abilities, are not only inflructed in the principles of geo- metry, but, if they are fo inclined, are taught to draw. The boys are trained to weaving, and to various crafts ; the girls fpin wool, flax, and cotton ; they knit, make lace, or are employed in plain work. Of the eight hundred and thirty-four paupers provided for at the time of my vifiting this eftabliihrnent, the 2ift of March, 1787, the old men were one hun- dred and nine, the aged women one hun- dred and thirty-one, the boys two hundred and thirty-five, the girls one hundred and feventy-one, married people eighteen, idiots and mad people, thirty-four; under cor- B b 4 rection, [ 376 ] region, men fifty-nine, women thirty-eighty as fervants thirty -nine. The number in- deed is perpetually varying; but in the whole of the preceding year, the rations of provifion were three hundred twelve thou- fand four hundred and nine, which number, divided by three hundred and fixty-five, points out the average to have been eight hundred and fifty-five perfons maintained daily in this houfe. Forty-five looms, and fixteen flocking frames are provided for their fervice, with a fufiicient number of fpinning- wheels, working benches, tools for carpen- ters, turners, moemakers, and taylors, a t wifling mill, a fpinning jenny, and a ma- chine for carding cotton. To encourage indunry, an account is kept for each individual, wherein he is made debtor to the houfe at the rate of three reals, or about feven-pence a day, and has credit given him for all the work he does; and mould the balance be, sis often happens, in his favour, it is paid to him, whenever he can make it appear, to the fatisfaclion of the directors, that he is able to eflablim himfelf without their fu- ture aid. I examined the accounts of many, [ 377 1 many, who cleared for themfelves more than half a crown a week ; and were look- ing out for fettlements, that they might marry, and gather the fruits of their own induftry. Adjoining to the houfe is a fpacious fhep for the accommodation of all, who are willing to work, wherein are provided pro- per implements, and raw materials ; and the moment any one has completed his work, he receives the price of his labour, without any deduction; being at liberty not only to lodge, where he pleafes, but to fpend his gains according to his fancy. Here I counted more than feventy young people at their wheels. But becaufe many, who would work, are indifpenfably confined at home, where, from poverty, they are unable to procure either wheels or wool ; the governors pro- vide both, and pay them, without any de- duction, for their work. By thefe means, when I was there, of three hundred and forty-eight families, more than five hun- dred fouls, were trained to induftry. The directors informed me of three children, the eldeft nine years of age, who by fpin- ning gained fix reals, that is more than fourteen E 378 ] fourteen pence a day, and maintained a paralytic father. Not fatisfied with thefe exertions, they have eftablifhed fchools in the diftant quarters of the city, on the fame plan ; and, providing the beft matters in every branch of bufinefs, which they wifh to cultivate, they admit freely all, who are de- firous of being taught. It is their intention to pick out from the brighter!: of their boys the beft draftfmen, and having inftructed them in the various languages of Europe, to make them travel for the acquifition of knowledge, and the advancement of manufactures. As the furrounding parishes may not find it convenient to adept fimilar institutions on a fmaller fcale, therefore they receive the infants, the aged, and the infirm, from any of them, on condition of being paid in due proportion for their board. The management is verted in twelve directors, who .are prefided over by the governor of the city for the time being, with power to fill up of themfelves any vacancy, which may happen in their body. Of thefe, fix take the general over fight of the various departments ; the other fix have [ 379 ] have each a feparate charge, that every one may enjoy, without another to (hare it with him, the applaufe which his zeal de- fences. One is accornptant general ; an- other is treafurer; a third is fteward, to collect the rents, and to manage the re- venue; a fourth has the overfight of ma- nufactures ; the fifth takes the charge of the proviiions ; and the fixth provides the raiment. All their accounts are clear, diftinc~t, and kept with moft minute exactnefs. The fources of their revenue are from voluntary contributions ;' legacies; a tax of one real a fanega on all the wheat brought into the city; and from the produce of la- bour in the houfe. The whole expence, in the year 1786, was one million three hundred and eighty-five thoufand reals, viz. Reals vellon. Provifions - 541,640 Clothes - - 58,409 Salaries - - 66,590 Sundries - - 718,361 1,385,000 reals vellon. Which, [ 33° ] Which, dividing by one hundred, that is by cutting off two figures from the rrpht, leaves thirteen thoufand eight hundred and fifty pounds. The preceding year the clothing was nearly three times as much - y but the other expences differed little from the year now under examination. If we take the ave- rage at eight hundred and fifty perfons, we mall find the food for each amounting to fix hundred and thirty-feven reals, or fix pounds feven milling and four pence, and the clothes to thirteen millings and eight- pence. But in order to find out the whole expence on account of each individual, we mufl confider, that during the three years fince the hofpicio was firft opened, the goods unfold in the magazines amount to four hundred and feventy-three thoufand one hundred and fifty-one reals, which being divided by three, gives one hundred and fifty-feven thoufand ftven hundred and feven teen for the proportion of one year. Now this being deducted from one million three hundred and eighty-five thoufand, leaves one million two hundred and twenty-feven thoufand two hundred and [ 3«i ] and eighty-three as the expence of the public for the year 1786, and this, divided by eight hundred and fifty, gives one thou- fand four hundred and forty-three reals, or fourteen pounds eight (hillings and (even pence for the expence of each, not includ- ing the produce of his labour. This accumulation of goods in their ma- gazines arifes from the want of a market. Public bodies being deficient in watchful- nefs, activity, and zeal, labour under this difadvantage, and will never find a vent for their commodities, unlefs at a price greatly inferior to what private manufacturers will be able to obtain. From hence arifes one argument againft fuch eftablifhments ; but although ftrong, it is by no means the ilrongeft, becaufe univerfally people in con- finement, and deprived of liberty, eat too much, and work too little. This beyond a queftion is the cafe at Cadiz, in the hof- picio, in which they have ninety-two holi- days allowed them, and in which the ex- pence of food and raiment is double what it ihould be. In the conduct of this eftablimment we iind many things highly to be commended, and [ 3«2 ] and in the firft place we mull admire the activity and zeal of the directors. That gentlemen of diflinguifhed talents, and men of bufinefs, mould be animated with fuch zeal for the public good, as to devote a confiderable portion of their time to it, and aflemble every evening to fuper- intend this work, can never be fufficiently applauded. In the detail of this bufinefs we difcover not only zeul, but zeal well directed for the beft of purpofes. Nothing can be more worthy of imitation than the public work- mop, with the practice of providing wheels and wool for thofe who are confined at home; nor can any thing more effectually excite the ingenuous mind to induftry than the idea, that he mall be rewarded for his pains, and in the iffue reap the fruits of his own exertions. But inafmuch as many among the lower claffes are deftitute of generous fentiments, and as moft of them have, by their fupinenefs, reduced themfelves to diftrefs and poverty; the regulation introduced into one of our workhoufes at Bradford, in Wiltshire, by a moft ingenious manager, may perhaps, and, I apprehend, undoubtedly will, be found preferable [ 383 I preferable for general utility. He calcu- lates what every one is capable of earning, without oppreffion, and accordingly ap- points the morning and the evening tafk, which muft be performed before they either eat or drink. When this tafk is accomplifhed ; whatever more they earn, they immediately receive. From this con- duct of the manager, the poor feel con- flantly the two-fold incentive of hope and fear, which certainly is much better for them than to be under the influence of one motive only, and that more remote. His plan is to receive and to relieve the poor in the hour of diftrefs ; but at the fame time to teach them induftry, and to get rid of them as foon as poflible. In certain circumftances it may be wife to take children from their parents, and to educate them in public feminaries; but then it mould be remembered, that thus trained they are feldom hardy, and that they have never been found to make good domeftics; nor are they qualified to rear a family, like thofe, who have been bred up in cottages, and have, from their infancy, been t 384 ] been taught to turn their hands to every kind of work. To take old people from their families* and, under pretence of providing better for their wants, to rob them of thofe endear- ments, and that tender care, which they would have received from their ntarefl re- latives and friends, is cruel in the extreme ; and to leave empty a wretched cottage, or a miferable bed, for the reception of frefh wretchednefs and mifery, is fo far from being either politic or wife, that no conduct can be more remote from wifdom and found policy. If, the moment you had provided for the object of diflrefs, you were to pull down the habitation, and fet fire to the bed; if you were to deftroy the neft, which nothing but wretchednefs can oc- cupy; the cafe would then be different. The principle on which is built this ob- fervation, being little underftood, and lefs attended to, I mall endeavour to explain it. Navigators make mention of an ill and in the South Seas, which, from the firft dif- coverer, is called Juan Fernandez, In this fequeftered fpot he placed a colony of goats, confifting [ 38j ] coniifling of one male attended by his fe- male. This happy couple, finding pafture in abundance, could readily obey the firft command, to increafe and multiply, till in procefs of time they had replenished their little ifland. Dampier, vol. i. p. 88. In advancing to this period they were ftrangers to mifery and want, and feemed to glory in their numbers : but from this unhappy moment they began to iufrer hunger ; yet continuing for a time to increafe their num- bers, had they been endued with reafon, they muft have apprehended the extremity of famine. In this iituation the weakeil firft gave way, and plenty was again re- stored. Thus they fluctuated between hap- pinefs and mifery, and either fufTered want or rejoiced in abundance, according as their numbers were diminished or increafed; never at a flay, yet nearly balancing at all times their quantity of food. This degree of equipoife was from time to time de- stroyed, either by epidemical difeafes, or by the arrival of fome vefft'l in diftrefs. On fuch occalions their numbers were coniider- ably reduced j but to compeniate for this alarm, and to comfort them for the lofs of Vol. II. C c their t 386 ] their companions, the furvivors never failed immediately to meet returning plenty : they were no longer in fear of famine; they ceafed to regard each other with an evil eye ; all had abundance ; all were content- ed; all were happy. Thus, what might have been conlidered as misfortunes, proved a fource of comfort ; and, to them at leaft, partial evil was univerfal good. When the Spaniards found that the Englifh privateers reforted to this ifland for provifions, they refolved on the total extir- pation of the goats, and for this purpofe they put on more a greyhound dog and bitch. Ulloa, b. 2. c. 4. Thefe in their turn increafed and multiplied, in proportion to the quantity of food they met with ; but in confequence, as the Spaniards had forefeen, the breed of goats diminiihed. Had they been totally deftroyed, the dogs like- wife muffc have perifhed. But as many of the goats retired to the craggy rocks, where the dogs could never follow them, defend- ing only for fhort intervals to feed, with fear and circumfpection, in the vallies, few of thefe, befides the carelefs and the ram, became a prey; and none but the moll watchful, [ 3«7 ] watchful, ftrone, and active of the do^s could get a furficiency of food. Thus a new kind of balance was eftabliilied. The weakeft of both fpecies were among the firft to pay the debt of nature ; the moft active and vigorous preferved their lives. It is the quantity of food which regulates the number of the human fpecies. If we fuppofe, in a good climate, with plenty of food and healthy habitations, the number of children in each family on the average to be four, and the mean age to which they fhall arrive to be fifty years j if the men mould marry at the age of twenty- one, and the women at nineteen, then one couple, at the end of thirty- three years, will leave twelve defcendants. In fifty- nine years there will be twenty-four per- fons ; and at the end of one hundred and twenty-nine years, they will be one hun- dred and eighty-eight, or ninety-four times their firft number. Father Feyjoo relates, that, A. D. 159c, one man and four women, who had efcaped from mipwreck, landed in the iile of Pines, near Madagafcar, where, finding plenty of good fruit, they became, when difcovered by C c 2 the [ 383 ] the Dutch, twelve thoufand. Should any one conceive either this fad:, as it very pro- bably is, to be miftated, or my fuppofition to go much beyond the mark, he is wel- come to reduce the number as low as he pleafes, provided he leaves me in poileilion of this principle, that in certain circum- stances and in given periods, men will mul- tiply in proportion to their food. We are informed, that the Israelites, when they came into Egypt, were feventy fouls ; that they remained in the land of Gofhen four hundred and thirty years, and that when they departed,, omitting the Le- vites, the amount of all, that were able to* go out to war, was fix hundred and three thouiand five hundred and fifty males y of twenty years old and upwards. From thefe data we may conclude, that the Ifra- elites doubled their numbers every twenty- feven years, or nearly within that term. The population in North- America dou- bles every five and twenty years; but in fome provinces every fifteen years. In mo- dern Europe it requires, according to Dr. Smith, five hundred years to double the number of its inhabitants. The reafon- of [ 389 ] of this becomes obvious, if we call to mind the principles on which depend the pro- pagation of the fpecies, and the caufes by which its progrefs may be retarded, or al- together limited. Thefe are, 1 ft, Want of food, as on the highlands of Scotland, where a woman will brinp- twenty children, and rear only two - y or in the woods among the hunting tribes; or even in the mod highly cultivated country, when the population is advanced to the utmoft ability of the foil to nourifli, like a6 in China, where numbers are expofed, and perifh in their infancy, for want of food, and where many are deterred from marriage by the fear of wanting bread- ad, Difeafes, either peculiar to the cli- mate as at Senegal and at Batavia ; or in- duced, as at Constantinople, and even in London, by infection, foul air, confinement, and bad nurfing : difeafes not confined to woods, not ravaging the favage tribes alone, but fpreading with more fatal virulence in great, in rich, and in luxurious cities. 3d, Want of commerce for the promo- tion of induflry, and of a market for the furplus of its produce. C c 3 4th, [ 39° ] 4th, War in all its forms, whether car- ried on by uncultivated or by polifhed na- tions, either ior plunder, for conqueft, or for the extenfion of commerce. 5th, Superstitious vows impofed on the monadic orders, and celibacy enjoined the priefthood. 6th, Emigration of the breeding flock, and transference of capitals, arifing either from a bad police, or from a vicious form of government, and the want of that fecurity of perfon and of property which can be enjoyed only where freedom reigns ; that is, where men are fure of being protected from the oppreffion of arbitrary power, and are fubject to none but wife and equi- table laws. 7th, Want of land, or the opportunity of acquiring it by induflry. 8th, Want of habitations. Now in proportion as you remove thefe obstacles, your population will advance. When, therefore, it is your object to increafe the number of your people - y the way to ac- complim this will be obvious, and the tafk in Spain, under a wife government, would be eafy j but when the queftion is, how to banifli { 39 1 ] banifh poverty and wretchednefs, hoc opus, hie labor eft. Yet in the inveftigation of this qucftion we have one general principle to guide us : increafe the quantity of food, or where that is limited, prefcribe bounds to population. In a fully peopled country, to fay, that no one (hall fuffer want is ab- furd. Could you fupply their want?, you would foon double their numbers, and ad- vance your population ad infinitum, which is contrary to the fuppofition. It is indeed poiubie to banifh hunger, and to fupply that want at the expence of another ; but then you muit determine the proportion that mail marry, becaufe you will have no other way to limit the number of your people. No human efforts will get rid of this dilemma; nor will men ever find a method, either more natural, or better in any refped, than to leave one appetite to regulate another. Having already enlarged upon this fub- jed, I mall here only refer to fuch rules, as may enable us to form a proper judg- ment of the workhoufe in Cadiz. To inflitute public fhops, where the •induftrious may at all times find employ- C c 4 ment, [ 39* ] ment, is benevolent and wife : to fupply them at home with implements and raw materials is politic ; but to expect a profit from the labour of people in confinement is abfurd. To fupply the indigent with food and raiment, provided you thereby do not offer a premium to indolence, prodigality, and vice, is ialutary. To correct the lazy and the fpendthrift, to lliut them up in houfes of confinement till they have acquired habits of fobriety and induftry, is both juft and prudent -, but in fuch establishments, to feed, to clothe, to lodge them better than the fober and the diligent are lodged, are clothed, are fed, is not agreeable to any principles of equity, and is inconfiftent with found po^ licy. Upon the grounds already Stated, I may venture to predict, that notwithstanding the zeal and efforts of the gentlemen, who Superintend the general workhoufe at Cadiz, and in fpite of all their wife regulations, unlefs the people in it are compelled to work more, and have jefs to eat - 3 in a courfe of vears the city will be nearty as full [ 393 3 full of beggars as before the foundation of this houfe was laid. For whilft all the habitations, now recently emptied, remain to receive new tenants in fimilar diftrefs with thofe who quitted them, and whilft fuch a comfortable refuge is at hand for them ; indolence, prodigality, and vice will have nothing to fear, but every thing to hope -, and the mod improvident will not hefitate to contract thole bands, on which the propagation of their race depends. I cannot quit the hofpicio, without taking notice of the kitchen, on account of its fmgular ftructure. The chimney is an octagon, in the middle of the room, fur- rounded by fixteen ftoves, eight of them large, and contiguous to it, and as many fmall, communicating by means of flues. The larger ftoves are three feet diameter, by three and an half in depth. Under the kitchen is a cellar to receive the aflies. The merchants of this city, ever fince the commerce of Peru and Mexico was tranfported here from Seville, have rifen in confideration ; but, in the prefent moment, they have received a fevere fhock by the femoval of the barrier, which had fecured that [ 394 ] that monopoly to them. The confequence has been, a glutted market in the Tranf-at- lantic colonies, many failures in Cadiz, and not a few in thofe cities, which have eagerly engaged in new and flattering enter- prizes, without fufficient capitals to ftand the mock of competition and the heavy loffes inevitable upon the firfr. laying open of an extenfive commerce. The Spanifh government has never yet acquired any liberal ideas refpecting trade, and even at the prefent moment, fpme of their bell political writers reiemble lag hounds hunting the flale fcent, whilfr. the fleeted: are already in pofTeftion of the game. Inftead of throwing down every obflacle to commerce, they labour to con- tract its limits, under the vain hope of efta- blifhing a monopoly, without conlidering either their own want of capital, of induf- try, and of an enterprifing fpirit, or the ut- ter imporTibiiity of preventing fmuggling, whilft other nations, with greater advan- tages for trade, can underfell them in the market. Until they lhall be more enlight- ened, until they mall have banimed their inquiiitors, and until the happy period mall arrive, [ 395 ] arrive, when, under the protection of a free government, they (lull have reftored public credit, and placed it on a firm foundation ; all their prohibitions, all their feverities ex- ercifed on the property and pcrfons of the illicit traders, all their commercial treaties, and all their commercial wars, into which ambition may betray them, will be frivolous and vain ; becaufe no efforts will ever pre- vail againft the united interefts of their own fubjects, and of all lurrounding nations. Even at home, the watchfulnefs and energy of government have never been able to enforce its prohibitions; for, notwith- standing thefe, when I was travelling through Spain, all the men appeared in Manchefter cotton goods, and no woman. was feen without her muflin veil. In Spain, as throughout Europe, it is found, that when the price of infurance is lefs than the duties imp'ofed on the commodity, no laws are fufficient to controul the operations of illicit traders. Previous to the year 172c, the commerce of America .was confined to Seville, not in- tentionally, but by a regulation of Charles V. in the year 1529, who, with a view of laying r 396 ] laying that commerce open for all his fub- jecls of Caftille, permitted merchants to freight their mips from the ports of Bif- cay, the Afturias, Gallicia, Malaga and Carthagena, provided they returned to Se- ville; under penalty of death, and connYca- tion of their cargoes, in cafe of non-com- pliance with that abfurd injunction. As for the cities belonging to the crown of Arragon, they were wholly excluded from the com- merce of America, and could reap no ad- vantage from the newly difcovered conti- nent. In confequence of thefe regulations, and the heavy duties of twenty per cent. im~ pofed on all goods exported to America, or im- ported from it, befide the duty of tonnage on the veifels; the contraband trade became fo lucrative, and of courfe fo extenfive in its operations, that little could be carried on to advantage under the fanclion of the laws. And the manufacturers of Spain, who A. D. 1545, had fuch a demand for goods, that merchants were happy to engage with them fix years before hand, contracting to take from them all that they could poffibly produce -, thefe fame manufacturers lived to fee the market loft, and were reduced from § the [ 397 ] the height of commercial affluence, to pe- nury and want. A. D. 1720, the emporium was changed, and the commerce, which for two centuries had proved a fource of wealth to Seville, was translated to Cadiz. At the fame time the duties were lowered, and, inltead of twenty per cent, on exports, rated according to their value, all bale goods and boxes paid a fettled tonnage of five reals and an half of plate for the cubic palm, without exami- nation, or any confideration, either of the nature or of the quality of the articles con- tained in them. The tonnage varied ac- cording to a table comprehending the fixteen ports of Spaniih America, being different in each. The inexpediency of thefe regula- tions is too obvious to efcape unnoticed by the reader. Thefe were not, however, the only mif- takes made by the Spaniih government in its commerce with the colonies ; for, inftead of difpatching fmall veffels frequently, as the market might require; previous to the year 1748, the whole trade was carried on by twenty-feven galleons, and rlotas to the number of about twenty- three; the former foiling I 398 ] failing annually to Porto Bello, the latter, once in three years, to Vera Cruz >, the former for the commerce of Peru, the lat- ter for that of Mexico - y the fmalleil veiTel being about five hundred and fifty tons, the others from eight hundred to one thou- fand. The galleons firft. touched at Carthagena for the convenience of the merchants of Popayan and Santa Fe, who brought gold and bezoar fbones, carrying back with them, in exchange, proviiions and Euro- pean goods. But the principal mart was Porto Bello, a town firuated in fuch a bar- ren country, and fubjecr. to fuch noxious vapours, that, except during the annual fair, which lafted forty days, it was deferted. Hither the merchants brought their gold and filver, with Peruvian bark, and Vicuna wool ; and beyond this the Spanifh trader could not fend his goods, nor could the Pe- ruvians difpofe of theirs, upon their own ac- count, in Spain. The Englifih, by an article in the peace of Utrecht, had the privilege of fending an- nually a fhip of five hundred tons to Porto Bello, loaded with all kinds of merchan- dife 5 [ 399 ] dife ; but under covert of this indulgence they commonly freighted one of twice that burthen, accompanied by tenders from Ja- maica, with which, when near the port, they exchanged provifions for piece goods; and by that contrivance, ufually carried more ar- ticles of commerce than five or fix of the Spanifh fleet. From A. D. 1737, the fair, and, together with it, Panama and Porto Bello, have declined. (V. Dampier's and Ulloa's Voyages.) As long as the court confined the trade of Peru to galleons, it gradually decreafed, infomuch that inftead of employing fifteen thoufand tons, it was funk, in the year 1740, to lefs than two thoufand. (V. Campomanes Education popular.) But no fooner had the marquis de la Enfenada fub- ftituted regifter mips in the place of gal- leons, to proceed directly by Cape Horn to the place of their deflination, than the trade revived; and when, in the year 1765, the barriers were in part removed, and all Spain, the provinces of Bifcay alone excepted, was permitted to fend its productions to Jucatan and the windward illands of Margarita and Trinidad; and when, inftead of the duties 9 of [ 4°° ] of the tonelada and palmeo, only fix per cent, was laid upon all goods exported ; the commerce, which had been like the fum- mer's brook, foon refembled a great river, and enriched all the countries through which it flowed. In confequence of the benefits which merchants, manufacturers, planters, and the revenue received by the partial removal of thefe impediments to commerce, govern- ment, although reluclantly, at laft (A. D. 1778) agreeable to the remonftrances of Count Campomanes, confented to lay open the trade of America to all its fubjects, thofe alone excepted, who, not being bound by the general laws of the peninfula, could not Mt\y be admitted to the enjoyment of this privilege. The inhabitants of Bifcay have, however, no reafon to complain, be- caufe they poflefs an ample compenfation for their lofs in the peculiar immunities, which they inherit from their fathers, and more efpecialiy in the freedom of their ports. Such have been the general regulations. But Spain, like England, and other nations of Europe, has granted, from time to time, exclufive t 401 i cxclufive privileges to chartered companies, not only to the injury of its citizens at large, and of its manufacturers in particular, but to the oppreffion of thofe provinces, which have been fubjecled to a monopoly. If a country could be found uncivilized, yet free, and abounding with capitals unemployed in trade -, or if large fums were required for hazardous undertakings, more than could be raifed on the credit of a private com- pany, in fuch a cafe, the grant of a mono- poly, with peculiar privileges, might be en- dured -, but that a trade, once open, mould be confined for the benefit of a few, to the disadvantage of the many, is inconfiftent with every principle of equity, and of com- mercial policy. A. D. 1728, Philip V. granted by char- ter to a company, taking the name of Gui- puzcoa, the exclufive trade of Caraccas, in the province of Venezuela, with the privi- lege of refhipping, by fmaller veflels, all its furplus commodities for Cumana and Guayana, with Trinidad and Margarita, two iflands at the mouth of the Oronoco, that this company might exchange European goods for gold, filver, hides, cacao, fugar, Vol. II. D d and [ 4^2 ] and fuch other fruits as thefe countries produced; but in the event, cacao became their ftaple commodity. A. D. 1752, the province of Maracaybo was added to their grant. This company at firfl employed twelve veffels to carry on its trade, with nineteen to guard the coaft from fmugglers, varying thefe numbers as fuited their convenience ; and for both thefe purpofes they engaged two thoufand five hundred feamen. Such an expence, with the heavy charge of ma- nagement by directors, fupercargoes, fac- tors, agents, clerks, Sec. &c. required con- fiderable profits, beyond what the private adventurer would have been happy to re- ceive, had the trade been free; and there- fore, as was moil natural, produced ex- action operating again ft the colonift, a contracted commerce checking the manu- facturer at home, and feverities exercifed in vain to reftrain the operations of the illicit trader. (Vide Campomanes Educ. pop.) The ports they ufed in Spain were S. Sebaftian and Cadiz, into which, in five years, from 1770 to 1774, they imported one '■> [ 403 ] ©ne hundred feventy nine thoufand one hundred and fifty - fix fanegas of cacao, each fanega being one hundred and ten Caftillian pounds; and by this large im- portation funk the price of chocolate in Spain to one-half of what it had been be- fore. The cacao is the fruit of the Theobroma foliis integerrimis, one of the Polyadelphia, Pentandria, and fiourifhes in America be- tween the tropics, but more efpecially in the province of Venezuela. The fruit grows on the trunk and on the branches, and ne- ver fails at any feafon of the year. In ■Spain they mix fix pounds of the nut with three pounds or three and an half of fugar, feven pods of vanillas, one pound and an half of Indian corn, and half a pound of cinnamon, fix cloves, one drachm of cap- ficum, fome roucou nut, to improve the colour, and a fmall portion of mufk, or am- bergris, to give it a pleafant fcent. Some people, however, ufe only the nut, with fugar and cinnamon. The Indians, to one pound of the nut put half a pound of In- dian corn, with an equal quantity of fugar, and fome rofe- water. P d 2 The [ 4°4 ] The vanillas are pods filled with minute feeds, from a parafitical climbing plant, de- fcribed under the name of Epide?idrum Va- nillin, Sp. PL 1347, belonging to the Gy- nandrous clafs, (v. Pulteney's View of the Writings of Linnasus.) A. D. 1780, the Carraccas company re- ceived the fevereft fhock in the capture of a rich convoy by Lord Rodney, valued at more than two hundred thoufand pounds ; and a few years after, their capital was ab- forbed in a new eftablimment, called the Company of the Philippines. This company, inftituted agreeably to , the ideas fuggefted by the Abbe Raynal, in his view of the European fettlements, took its rife in the year 1785, with a ca- pital of twelve hundred thoufand pounds, and with valuable privileges granted to it for a term of twenty-five years. Previous to this ertablimment, two mips failed an- nually, one from Acapulco, a fea-port of Mexico, and croffing the Pacific Ocean, carried the treafures of America to the Philippines ; the other, returning by the fame courfe from Manilla, the capital of LucQnia, came to Acapulco, where it was met [ 4°5 ] met by veffels from Lima, loaded with cacao, quickfilver, and hard dollars; in barter for which the merchants fent back china ware, fpices, perfumes, filk, caliicoes, muflins, and printed linens, the produce of the Eaft. When the Philippine company began its operations, this traffic ceafed; and now, un- der the fpecious idea of faving time, with freight and infurance, required in conveying the gold and filver, but chiefly filver, of Peru and Mexico, by Europe to the eaft, thefe precious metals are fent directly weftward to the place of their final destination, whilft the more bulky and perifhable produce of the Eaft, to the fame amount in value, is diverted from its former courfc, and made to defcribe, in the oppofite direction, that fegment of the circle, which had anciently been traced by the filver and the gold. The Philippine iflands,- almoft. innumer- able, and caft up by volcanos, are healthv, fertile, and, befide all the grains of Europe, produce gold, copper, iron, fhip- timber, hemp, alum, falt-petre, cattle, hides, fago, rice, railins, cacao, fugar, tobacco, wax, fifh, and couries, which are the money of D d 3 Indoftan, [ 4°6 } Indoftan. Thefe, with the filver, indigo, and cochineal of America, the company barters with the merchants of Afia for muilins, cottons, filks, fpices, tea, quickfilver, and china ware, which,, with the fuperabundant produce of the iflands, are now brought by the Cape of Good Hope to Europe, and are admitted under eafy duties into Spain with a drawback of one-third on their exportation. Nothing could be more flattering to the hopes of the minifter, than a plan apparent- ly fo well contrived, and carried on under the aufpices of a moll able and enterpriilng foreigner, who had already iignalized him- felf by the formation of the bank. Yet pleafing as the profpect was, all his hopes,, and all the expectations of the nation are upon the point of vanishing. With heavy charges of administration, with every dif- advantage in the purchafe of commodities, the chief articles of trade are either fpoihng for want of a market, or fold to a confider- ablelofs. As for tea they never ufe it j chi- na ware is little in requeft, and even with us will fcarcely pay the freight; the filks, the muilins, and the cotton goods, whiiil they could find purchafers, had a. tendency to deflroy [ 407 ] -deftroy their favourite manufactures ; and now, fince thcfe latter articles mult abide the ifTue of a fair competition with the Englifh, the company may be faid to have received its mortal wound. In a country f abject to defpotic power, if the minifter of the day will purchafe confidence, he muft bid high for it; if he will have trading companies incorporated, with commanding capitals, he muft grant them monopolies, with exclufive privileges, inconfiftent with the general 57 5 Santander 36,715 Tortofa 7,669 Canaries 24,974 Gijon 4,281 £.1,958,849 Foreign produce. Total produce. 2,182,531 3,621,443 14,3d 2IO,68o 3°>543 93,256 21,240 143,871 39,962 104,537 90,173 126,888 289 7>95 8 — — 24,974 10,190 HA7 1 £.2,389,229 £.4,348,078 The duties upon thefe produced one hundred feventy thoufand and eight ^hun- dred pounds. The value of imports from America was as follow, being reduced to ilerling. Cadiz [ 4 i6 ] In mon ey and jewels. 1 Cadiz - 8,297,164 Malaga Barcelona - 102,140 Corunna mm 741,283 Santander - 40,843 Canaries - 109,807 £■ 9,291,237 In merchandile. 2 >99°>757 18,605 9^233 90,001 100,974 52,366 £-3>343>93 6 The whole import was £.12,635,173, being more than double what was ftated by the abbe Raynal; and the duty upon this amounted to five hundred twenty-feven thoufand four hundred and twenty-three pounds. The various prices of commodities com- ing from America were, A. D. 1775* in Cadiz, viz. Cochineal \ the bell, from ninety-feven to one hundred and four ducats of eleven reals of plate the arroba, or about fixteen millings the pound. Indigo, from twenty-one to thirty-four reals of plate the pound, {he real of plate being four pence halfpenny. Cacao, from twenty- fix to forty-one dol- lars the fanega, but moitly at forty. As, 4 therefore, [ 4i7 3 therefore, fixteen fanegas are equal at Ca- diz to twenty-five Wincheiler bufhels, it may be reckoned at £. 3. 16 s. gd. the bumel. Sugar, moderately white, twenty-five reals of plate the arroba, or about four pence halfpenny a pound. Hides, from Buenos Ayres, Caraccas, and Orinoco, about five pence a pound, or eigh- teen killings the hide when raw; but from the Havannah confiderably lefs. Vicuna Wool, from Peru, about two pence halfpenny a pound; and from Buenos Ayres, at two pence nearly : but the belt flieeps wool, when warned, may be purchafed there for lefs than two and three pence the arroba of twenty-eight pounds. Cotton, clean, about three millings a pound; but as the ifland of Cuba is found to produce it in vaft abundance, the price muft fall confiderably. Copper, from Mexico and Peru, twenty- four dollars the quintal, or about eight pence a pound, on a fuppofition that one hundred and four pounds Spanim equal one hundred and twelve Englifh. From Chili it is twenty-five per cent, cheaper. Vol. II. E e Tin, [ 4 i8 ] ■ I'm, from America, was twenty dollars the quintal, whilfl that from England fold for twenty-five ; the former being forne- thing more than fix pence halfpenny per pound, (v. Campomanes, Apend. a la Ed, pop. p. 144.) Tallow might be brought from Buenos Ayres, where it fells for two and fix pence the barrel of twelve arrobas, or ten pence the hundred weight : but heavy duties check this branch of commerce. (Camp. E ; P- P- 333-) A gentleman from Peru gave me famples of wool which came from two animals each refembling the Vicuna, one called Alpaca, the other Llacma; the latter coarfe, but the former very fine and excellent for hats. It is to be lamented that thefe have not yet found their way into the market. The whole trade of Cadiz engages about one thoufand vefTels, of which nearly one- tenth are Spanifh. The wines moft remarkable in Cadiz are Sherry and Pacaretti, both from Xeres and its vicinity. The former is fold for forty-eight pounds a ton, the latter for fifty-fix ; and thefe, when they come to England, [ 419 ] England, in the out-ports, pay, cuftoms, fixteen guineas ; excife, eleven pounds eigh- teen (hillings the ton, being four hogmeads or two pipes; in London £.2. 16s. more. Merchants are liable to peculiar difad- vantages in Spain, not only from the nature of the government, which is perfectly de- fpotic, and from the ignorance, mifi reforma- tion, or inattention, too often to be lament- ed in the beft of ministers ; not only by abfurd prohibitions, by monopolies, and by oppreflive duties, but by the mifconduct of the provincial governors, who frequently are influenced by mercenary views, in the judgment they pronounce between con- tending parties. A late military governor, much favoured by the king, being fupreme in all civil and fifcal caufes, when he was new in office, re- fufed taking bribes, and ruled his rapacious officers with a rod of iron; but long before he was difgraced, he became infected with the love of money, and received it upon the moft infamous occaiions without a biufh. Under his protection, merchants defrauded the revenue, and bankrupts found fhelt E e 2 from [ 420 ] from their creditors. This was notorious ,• yet, when he was recalled, fuch had beer* his predecefTbrs, and fuch were they likely to be, who mould be appointed to fucceed him, that he retired lamented, and carried with him certificates of his good conduct,, iigned however, chiefly by the monks* whom, previous to his departure, he had much carefTed,. On his retreat, his power was divided* and the civil government was adminiftered by the alcaldes mayores of the city, each- alternately holding it a week. One of thefe having* for the trifling confideration of twenty dollars, granted an order to a cre- ditor in Spain to feize, for his own private benefit, the effects of a bankrupt ; the agent of other creditors in England, taking the alcalde by the hand, with forty dollars, rea- dily procured a reverfal of the order, and thus purchafed fubflantial juitice for his employers. Another alcalde having promifed, for one hundred dollars, not to grant an attachment to a perfon, who had preteniiorrs to fome property, yet granted it, and being re- proached for his conduct, replied with coolnefsj,. [ 421 ] coolnefs, " How could I avoid it, when ** he gave me forty dollars ? but be not un- *' eafy, for to-morrow I will take off the ** attachment." Obnoxious to fuch abufes, how can commerce flouriih ? The province of Andalufia, watered throughout its whole extent by the Gua- dalquivir, if properly cultivated, mould produce corn fufficient, not only for its own confumption, but for exportation. Yet the wheat annually imported is little lefs than one million and an half of fanegas; the fanega being commonly one hundred weight, but at Cadiz, about three pounds lefs. Nearly one half this quantity, in the year 1787, came from Africa; eighty-five thoufand fanegas were imported from Ame- rica, and the remainder was furnifhed by Naples, Sicily, and Sardinia; the whole amount that year being one million four hundred and forty-eight thoufand fanegas. It is remarkable, that though thev have an opportunity of conflrucling tide-mills, yet, for want of thefe, they grind their corn with mules, which cofts them ten reals, or E e 3 two [ 4 22 ] two millings nearly, per quintal or fa- nega. To prevent a fcarcity of corn, and to make a profit by the fale of it, the city has eflablifhed a public granary, from which the bakers are fupplied at a given price; and, according to that, the magitlrates re- gulate the affize of bread. I vifited this vaft repository, and was much furprifed to fee the heaps of wheat full of all kinds of trumpery, not only barley, but vetches of various kinds, and a variety of noxious feeds. Had the grain been winnowed by the machine now in common ufe all over Scotland, it would have been more beauti- ful to the eye, and much more wholefome for their food. When I had fatisfied my curioiity in viewing and contemplating the articles of commerce, under the protection of a friend, with whom I had fpent much time at Ma- drid, I made a little excurfion to fee the arfenals at the Caraca. Cadiz itfelf is frrongly fortified towards the fea by rocks, and, on the land fide, by works erected at a vaft expence. Beyond thefe are market gardens on the ftrand, watered by norias; * and f 423 ] and here begins the narrow caufeway lead- ing to the iile of Leon, which is an exten- hve flat, uncultivated, and lcarcely fufcepti- bie of cultivation. Although barren, it produces coniiderable profit by the nume- rous falt-pools, which require very little trouble or expence; becaufe the fun and air quickly occafion the water to evaporate, leaving the fait cry flail ized. The village of Port Royal, through which we parled, is one long flreet, well paved, and very pretty. Here my curiofity prompted me to vifit M. de Langara, who gave me a polite reception. Pleafed with his countenance and manner, I moil iin- cerely pitied his misfortunes. : Ever fince the war, the exertions of Spain have been inceflant to render her marine refpectable ; but more efpecially at the time when I was there, all was in mo- tion, and the minifler of the marine was making the moil flrenuous efforts to equip a formidable fleet. This was done to vin- dicate their claims upon the Mofquito more, although that territory was n*;ver fubjecl to the crown of Spain, and the inde- pendent princes, who have dominion there, E e 4 had [ 424 ] had been for ages in alliance with the Eng- lish nation. When I returned to England, I examined the nature and extent of the fettlement which caufed lb much uneafinefs to Spain. It confifted of no more than five hundred and fixty-nine freemen, including the wo- men and their children, with one thoufand feven hundred and fixty-three black ilaves, and two hundred and four head of cattle. The uneafinefs arofe, therefore, not from the number of the fettlers, but from their contraband trade ; from their communica- tion with the Mofquitos, who, in time of war, had been ufed to moleft the Spaniards ; and from the apprehenfion that, by their means, the Englifh, in fome future war, might eitabliih themfelves in force on the lake of Nicaragua. This fettlement was certainly valuable to England as the connecting medium be- tween Jamaica and the Spanifh Main for the exchange of our manufactures with Guatimala againft indigo, cochineal, filver, and hard dollars. Indeed the indigo, grow- ing wild on all that coaft, yields the beft commodity, and no country produces finer § frgar- [ 4^5 1 fugar-canes. The infant colony made about a hundred and fifty hogfheads in one year ; but being obliged to pay the foreign duty in England, the mills were fuffered to de- cay. Mahogany was a principal article of their commerce; and of this the annual export was about three million feet. Be- fide thefe articles, they fent to England four tons of turtle-fhells, paying a duty of one milling a pound, with a hundred and twenty thoufand pounds weight of farfapa- rilla, the duty of which, at feven pence a pound, was three thoufand five hundred pounds ; a fum more than fufficient to dis- charge all the expences of this new fettle- ment. Such was the value of our pofTefTions on the Mofquito Shore, that neither the mi- nister who ligned the preliminaries of peace at the clofe of a difaffcrous war, nor his im- mediate fucceflbr in office, who ratified that peace, would agree to their relinquishment; yet, in the year 1787, the fettlement was evacuated, and our mofl faithful allies were abandoned to the mercy of their inveterate enemies. The [ 426 ] The magazines at the Caraca, all well arranged, are full of ftores, and new docks have been conftructed at a vail expence, for, being funk in a bed of foft clay and loam, they are confequently difficult to conftruct, and require unremitted labour to keep them dry. For this purpofe they ufe chain pumps, to the number of fixteen, each worked by eight men, who alternately pump four hours, and reft eight. Thefe are criminals, moftly fmugglers, con- demned to this painful fervice, fome for three, others for {even, and not a few for fourteen years. The fmugglers are, how- ever, diftinguifhed from the thieves by a lingle chain, whilft the latter carry two. In this dock-yard alone are a thoufand of thofe miferable creatures. I obferved here a prac- tice worthy of imitation. To prefer ve their ftore mails from the worms, from the wind, and from the fun, they are buried in fand, and by this fimple method are preferved for many years. In order to mew how much their naval power has advanced in the fpace of a few years, I mail fubjoin a llatement of their 9 marine [ 427 3 marine as it flood in the years 1776 and 1788. Force. A,D. 1776. Number of (hips. A.D. 1788. Number of mips. 112 — 1 — — 10 94 — , — — 3 . 80 — 5 — — — 3 74 — — — ■ 42 7° 68 — 4i 5 64 60 — 6 1 5 58 — — — 4 54 — — — 1 40 — — — 2 34 — 40 I take no notice of the fmaller frigates, they being of trifling importance. By this ftatement it is evident, that in twelve years the naval force of Spain has been nearly doubled, confide ring merely the guns but when we take into conlideration the number of their leading ihips ; in point of refpeclability, it will appear to be much more than doubled ; and if we pay atten- tion either to the views of government, or to the peculiar tafce and difpoiition of the new fovereign, we may conclude that no ex- pence £■ 428 ] pence will be fpared, nor the moft watchful attention wanting, to render their navy ftill more formidable. In the fumrner of 1790 their fleet of obfervation confined of twenty-eight mips of the line, among which were four mips of 112: befide thefe, they had fix of the line ftationed in the Mediterranean, and a ftrong fleet in America. It is a queftion worthy of difcuflion, whether Spain ought to aim at being dif- tinguifhed as a naval power; or whether the fums annually expended with that view would not be more profitably employed in exciting induftry, by opening communica- tions, promoting agriculture, cheriihing manufactures, encouraging trade, and by adopting every plan, followed by the mofl enlightened nations, to facilitate commercial intercourfe. Should fhe adhere to the co- lonifing fyftem, a powerful navy will be needful to protect her commerce, and to fecure her monopolies ; but then it fhould be inquired, will the proportion of trade obtained, beyond what fhe would enjoy, if me had loft her authority over thefe dif- tant provinces, or if their trade was free, pay { 429 ] pay the expence of arming thus in times of peace, and of employing fuch a multi- tude of revenue officers to guard extenfive coafts ? but more efpecially, will it in- demnify her for all the commercial wars, in which fhe may be engaged to fupport her trade ? Thefe are queflions proper to be refolved ; and her beft politicians think, that fhe would be richer and more powerful with- out colonies. If their opinion is well founded, it is abfurd to expend ib much upon their navy. No country can boaft greater advantages for trade than Spain ; and even without a fingle fhip (he might be powerful and rich. Her wine, brandy, raifihs, figs, almonds, oranges, and nuts; her olives, oil, foap- afhes and foap ; her filks, linens and cot- tons, were they properly encouraged, with the finerl: wool, not omitting the efparto, fo valuable for cables, &c. her iron, fupe- rior in quality to that of other countries, with tin, lead, and copper in abundance ; to which might be added her furplus corn, were the land in proper tillage; all thefe productions of the foil, with the [ 43° ] the manufactures, which, under a good government, muft naturally find eftablifh- ment in Spain, would be fuch a never-failing fource of wealth, that mould any of the furrounding nations wifli to difturb her peace, (lie could have no caufe to fear, be- caufe upon a well- peopled, compact, and united empire, no Lifting impreffion can be made. But fuppofmg Spain, with fuch ad- vantages of foil and climate, producing fuch a rich variety of articles for trade, without exhaufting colonies, armed for felf-defence, but not infpiring either jealoufy or fear, mould confine her views wholly to domeftic ihduftry j which of all her neighbours could feel any inclination to moleft her ? In fuch circumftances muft not every one of them rejoice in her profperity ? War, among the rude inhabitants of in- fant countries, has only plunder for its object. This kind of depredation a well-difciplined people have no need to dread ; and among the civilized it has been long fince forgot- ten. But. the flames of war have been too often kindled among polifhed nations, with a view to 'con quell -, and projects of ambi- tion [ 43i ] tion have feldom failed to ipring from wealth and power. Yet the more en- lightened begin to. fee the folly of fuch purfuits; and all, who are fkilled in political arithmetic, are able to demonftrate their inexpediency. Not to mention the expence of conquefts, both in men and money, it is found by experience, that an empire, not merely when porTcmng diftant provinces, but as it extends its limits beyond cer- tain bounds, becomes proportionably weak. Whenever this truth (hall be univerially acknowledged, only one fource of devalua- tion will remain. At prefent, the greateft danger to the profperity of Europe is from commercial wars. But when the colonies, ftill fubju- gated to the European powers, mail call off the yoke, and the commercial nations, better acquainted with their true intereft, mall duly cultivate the arts of peace, this fource of contention will be dried up, and the only furviving contefl will be that of induftry; or, in the language of the eaft, men will beat their fvvords into plough- mares, and their fpears into pruning- hooks. The [ 432 ] The benefits arifing to mankind from this fpecies of contention, are defcribed by Hefiod, with fuch beautiful fimplicity, that I (hall take the liberty to quote him. A twofold envy, kindling twofold flrife, Marks the viciflitudes of human life. On widely different principles they move; Who hates the one, the other mull approve. Parent the one, of fierce protracted jars. To man, predefined fource of endlefs wars., Night, fable goddefs, gave the better birth, By Saturn wooed in lonely caves of earth. This fpurs the lazy on to noble deeds, While the bright flame juft emulation feeds. The idle neighhour of the growing great Envies that fource of wealth, which forms his (late. Who plants, who fows, with him in both to vie, Shall find fome mimic mortal ever nigh. Pregnant with good this mild contention lives ; By her each meager artift eats and thrives : Beggar on brother beggars keeps his eye. And learns from them his humble fuit to ply. E'en poets, kindling at another's name, Subdue their hunger by purfuit of fame. Perfes, thefe precepts, which my lines impart, Grave on the living tablet of thine heart. Nor let that worfe ambition fire thy mind, To join the mad purfaits of mad mankind : To whom enough from Ceres golden ilore Earth yields for prefent day, but yields not more. With [ 433 1 With this contented, foothe thine anxious foul; Nor rifle thine half by grafping at the whole. View foreign riches with indifferent eyes, Toil is the ways and means of rich fupplies. Hesiod's Works and Days. As we returned from the caraca, on the caufeway, a little above the level of the fea, and afterwards in the higheft part of the city, I obferved a porous kind of rock, compofed of flinty gravel, and broken fhells, united by a cement, fuch as was fufficient to connect, but not to fill up the interilices between them. This fact mould be treafured in the memory, becaufe it accords with many others, and points out a remarkable event in the hiftory of the earth, fubfequent to the grand revolution occafioned by the deluge. As we returned to the city, I had the fatisfaction of feeing a company of young gentlemen, who amufed themfelves in the fofs of the ramparts, with their favourite diverfion of the balloon. Their ball, about eight inches in diameter, is made of leather, ftrongly inflated by means of a machine, fo as to be exceedingly elaftic, Vol. II. F f after ' [ 434 ] after which it is fmeared with clay. This they fmite very obliquely againft a wall, with their right hand ; and to give it a greater momentum, as well as to protect the rift, the hand is inclofed in a wooden cafe, in which are many wide and deep furrows, crofling at right angles, fo as to. leave a correfponding number of blunt points. The antagonifts, at the diftance of about fourfcore yards, receive the bal- loon as it rebounds, and before it falls, one of them drives it back again, varying the angle within a given fpace, fo as beft to elude the attention of his opponents. This game, a fpecies of fives, yet more elegant than ours, requires much ftrength and good addrefs. In the evening I went to fee the theatre. It is large, elegant, and commodious; but as plays would not accord with the folem- nity of Lent, they comprcmifed the matter, and contented themfelves with an exhibi- tion of ropedancers, tumblers, pantomimes, and puppet mows, with fome moft whim- fical dances, in all which they had excel- lent performers. The dancers were in the ftile [ 435 ] (tile of lunatics, every one clothed in fome antic drefs, and the fcene reprefented the court-yard of a madhoufe. They began with country dances, then fudd^nly they changed to the cotillion, the allcmand, the galliego, and the fandango, palling with quick tranfitions from one to the other, and concluding with a rich variety of figures. As it was Lent I heard many fermons, but not one, which to me appeared interefr,- ing. The mofr. polifhed orators confine themfelves to churches ; but as it is found ufeful to have fome, who can adapt 'them- felves to the understandings and feelings of the vulgar, many preachers are appointed to harangue the multitude alfembled in the market place, and this they do with a ve- hemence of voice and gefture fuited to their congregations. I obferved often three or four of thefe engaged at the fame time, yet keeping fuch a proper diftance as not to interfere. One Wednefday evening, I went to the Francifcans to hear a penitential fermon de- livered by a father of that fociety, who was famous for his difcourfes. This being F f 2 finifhed, [ 43 6 ] ■ finifhed, all the lights were extinguished^ and inftantly the fcourges were applied. We could readily diftinguifh a difference in the found, according as the part fub- jected to difcipline was more or lefs co- vered with elaftic mufcles, and in propor- tion to the degree of energy with which it was applied ? but moderation was the prevailing fentiment, and many fcarcely let the left hand know what the right hand did. How much more fervent is the zeal of Catalans, who feem as if the fcourge drew blood at every ftroke ! Here not a voice was to be heard ? whereas at Barce- lona the people uttered not only groans and howlings, but a mixture between both more horrible than either. At times when the market place was not occupied by orators, the fcribes took pofTeffion of it with their benches, at which they fat with pen, ink, and paper, to write and read letters of all forts, and to execute every kind of deed. The com- mon price of a letter is eight quartos, or two pence farthing? and although this fum is trifling in itfeif, yet, confidering the s number [ 437 1 number of illiterate people, who conftantlj' employ them, they contrive to make out a comfortable maintenance. Before I left Cadiz, I had the fatisfaC- tion of beine witnefs to the ceremonies at- tending a funeral. After the phyfkians have turned their back upon a patient, nothing remains for him but confeffion, abfolution, the eucharift, extreme unction, death; and no fooner is the lad event an- nounced, than all the friends of the deceafed arlemble, dar la pefame, that is, to condole with the afflicted widow, who, clothed in mourning, and ftretched upon a bed, yet fcarcely vifible for want of light, receives their compliments, and in a low voice fpeaks to each of them. As it is fuppofed that no one in the family of the deceafed can pay attention to the wants of nature, fome friend takes care to fend in a dinner ready dreffed, with plenty of every thing the feafon can produce. When the vifitors re- tire, the widow, fon, father, brothers* uncles, coufins, and relations, each by name, unite in a meflace of invitation to all the friends of the deceafed, re que (ling their F f 3 attendance t 43S ] attendance when the body mall be carried, the day following, to the grave, and at the fervice to be performed the day af- ter the interment for the repofe of the de- parted foul. In obedience to this fummons, they af- femble at the houfe of the deceafed, and walk in proceffion to the church, where the corpfe is placed during the fervice be- fore the altar, with the face uncovered, and the hands uplifted, as reprefented on our ancient monuments, with this difference, that the deceafed has a crucifix between his hands. After the funeral fervice, the nearer!: relatives affemble in the veftry, when all their acquaintance pay their re- flects, each by bowing to them, as he paries filently before them. This finished, they return in folemn proceffion to the houfe, where the falutation, with the fame filence, is repeated. If, as in the cafe of the gentleman whofe obfequies I attended, the deceafed was a perfon of condition, on the day fucceeding the interment, the church is hung with mourning, all light is excluded, excepting 9 that t 439 1 that of numerous wax tapers, a funeral pile is erected, and all the relatives afTemble round it to attend the fervice of the mafs for the foul of the deceafed. On the lofs of a hufband, the difconfolate widow is un- der obligation to abftain fix months from all public amufements j but the widower is acquitted for a few days abftinence from thefe. Few places are more healthy than Cadiz. Yet when the folano, or fouth wind, blows, which comes to them over the fcorching plains of Africa having only the interven- tion of a ftrait, all the paflions are inflamed, and during its prevalence, the inhabitants, who are moft irritable, commit every fpe- cies of excefs. For the pleafures of focial intercourfe, I did not meet with any city more agreeable than this. As all nations are here arlem- bled within narrow limits, by their mutual intercourfe they foften each others man- ners; and as, notwithstanding the late mock, commerce flourifhes in a degree, with Its never failing attendants, wealth and hofpi- talityj a Granger may pafs away his time with [ 44-° 1 with the higheft fatisfaction to himfelf. For my part, excepting the vice-corrfbl Mr. Duff, and the imperial confiil Count de Greppi, I chiefly afTociated with Spa- niards. Among thefe the principal was Don Antonio Ulloa, the well known com^ panion of D. George Juan, to whom I had been particularly recommended. ^ I found him perfectly the philofopher, fen- iible and well informed, lively in his con- verfation, free and eafy in his manner^. Having obferved at his door two foldiers mounting guard, I expected fome pride of appearance, but I met with nothing like it* This great man, diminutive in ftature, remarkably thin and bowed down with age, clad like a peafant, 1 and furrounded by his numerous family of children, with the youngeft about two years old, playing on his knee, was fitting to receive morning vifitors, in a room, the dimenfions and furniture of which, for a few moments, diverted my attention from himfelf, the chief object of veneration. The room was twenty feet long by fourteen widei and lets than eight feet high, In this I faw [ 44i ] faw difperfed confufedly, chairs, tables, trunks, boxes, books, and papers, a bed, a prefs, umbrellas, clothes, carpenters tools, mathematical inftruments, a barometer, a clock, guns, pictures, looking-glafTes, fof- fils, minerals, and ihells, his kettle, bafons, broken jugs, American antiquities, money, and a curious mummy from the Canary iflands, or at leaft its trunk with the head and arms, for having been the common play-thing of his children, they had amuf- ed themfelves with drawing its teeth, and breaking off its limbs. Among the extraneous foffils, he fhewed me a variety of fea-fhells, collected by him-? felf near the fummits of the higheft moun- tains in America, fome on the furface, but manv bedded in the limeftone rock. When I went to take my leave cf him, on quit- ting Cadiz, he prefented me with his Na- tural Hiftory of South America, a work highly deferving to be tranflated. V As ufual, before I left the city, I inquired into the value of prcvifions, and found here, as in other cities, one contractor, who lupplies the carcafes at a lfipuiated price, making t 442 ] making his contract for twelve months. Thefe the magiftrates fell to the butchers, taking a profit for the city, and fixing the retail prices to the confumer. To avoid unufual fractions of a penny, I mall give thefe in Spaniih quartos, of which eight are equal to two pence farthing. Beef fells for fifteen quartos the pound of fixteen ounces \ veal for fixteen ; mut- ton twenty-one ; hog's lard twenty-four \ bread feven. Wheat is forty -feven reals the fanega, or five and ten pence nearly for a Winchester bufhel. The pay of a labourer is fix reals, or fomething more than fourteen pence a day ; but artifans require double. Mer- chants reckon one hundred and eight varas to be equal to one hundred yards ; but in reality four hundred and five varas make three hundred and feventy-one yards. The feet and inches bear the fame proportion. Five fanegas of corn are reckoned in trade to correfpond with eight Winchester bufhels, but the proportion is fixteen to twenty five. Eight I 443 ] Eight arrobas pf wine make twenty? five gallons. One hundred and four Spanifh pounds are equal to one hundred and twelve Eng- lish, at leaft in the rough calculations of a merchant INDEX )'l Mfri I N D E X TO THE SECOND VOLUME. ACORNS, the fort refer- red to by Horace 90 Agrarian law wanted in Spain 236 Agriculture of Salamanca 86 Alba, near Salamanca 91 Alba, the duke, his mari- fion * - * 155 Alcavala 162. I78. 226 Alcavalas and millones ope- rate againft commerce 198 Alcazar at Seville 323 Alcazar, Of Segovia 1 1 5 Algerines, a treaty with 225 Almaden, quickfilver mine 4 1 2 Almuradiel, la conception de - 288 Alvarez, D. Juan, intendant of the mint at Seville 337 Amadou 45 Vol. II. Amber, in the Afturias 56 American fettlements deftruc- tive to population 245 Andujar - - 297 Angulo, at Madrid 136.271 Annats - - 169 Apofento, a tax 170 Aqucduft at Segovia 1 1 5 Aranda, count de 265 Aranjuez, inn at 280 Area of Spain - 218 Afliento, with Spain 40S Affize injurious to trade 36. 221 Avila - - '97 Aviles - - 31. 33 Bailen - - 296 Balloon, a Spanifh game 433 Bank of S. Carlos 202 G g Banos N D X. Banos - - 296 Bafquiha - - J 43 Batida, at the Efcurial L27 Bayer, D. Fr°. at Ma- drid - 137-275 Beatas - - 342 Benavente 68 Berwick, the duke, his man- fion - - 155 Biihops, their virtue 150 Borracho, for wine 65 Botas, for wine - 286 Bowlder ftones 300. 304 Bowles, his widow, neglefted in Spain - 4 12 Brandy, a royal monopoly 170 Brachati _ - 68 Bruna, D. Francifco de 322 Bull of the crufades 1 7 1 Cabarrus, M. - 202 Cabinet of natural hiftory 154 Cacao fruit - 4°3 Cataftro, of Catalonia 1 7 1 Cadiz - - 3 68 Caizada de Valdrunciel 72 Camera, efFedts of - 173 Campomanes, in the Afturias 59 Campomanes, count, at Ma- drid - 141. 268 Cam unas - - 283 Canal of Guadarama 2 1 2 Candace - - 50 4 Canofa, porter to Count Flo- rida Blanca - 277 Caraca, village and arfenals of Cadiz - 42 z Caraccas Company 40 1 . 404 Cards, a royal monopoly 1 7 1 Carmona - - 310 Carolina - - 290 Carpio, count del, at Madrid 141 Carrio - - 47 Cafa de Apofento 170 Celibacy of the clergy 1 5 1 Charles III. his character 264 Charlotta - - 304 Chocolate, methods of making 403 Clavijo - 272 Coal, in the Afturias 25 Coche de Colleras 131 Cogolludo, marquis de, his eftablifhment 158 Coleto 93 Colonies, Spanifh, opprefled 410 College, Irifh, at Salamanca - - 75 Commerce of America 393 to 42 1 Concordat - 169. 173 Confeffion obligatory 147 Convents unfavourable to po- pulation - 233 Cordova - - 300 Corn INDEX. Corn finds its level all over Europe - 36. 220 Corn-mills, with horizontal wheels - - 60 Corporations hurtful 247 Cortejo - - 142 Corrales - - 7* Cortes - - 257—263 Crufades, a tax - 171 Curtis, Dr. prefidcnt of the Irifh college 73. 76 Cyder of the Afturias 52 Debts, national of Spain 190 Depopulation of Spain 88.218 Del Carpio, a city 298 Dia de buyes - 47 Difputation of candidates for a vacant benefice 339 Diefs of the Aiturian ladies 44 Prefs of peafants coming from Aftorga - 68 Drivers of mules, their agility 131 Ecclcfiailical months 169 Ecija - - 305 Efe&os y fifas dc Madrid 179 Effects of the camera 173 Emigrations depopulatedSpain 221 Enfenada, marquis de la, 199. 220. 399 Efcurial 119. 121, 122 Efpolios y vacantes 174 Excufado, a tax - 1 74 Extraordinary effects,a tax i 75 Fair at Aviies - 35 Fernandez, the two brothers, at Madrid - 137 Fcftivals tend to depopulate a country - 234 Fever, putrid - 94 Feyjoo, father - 21 Fiel medidor, a tax 17S Finance of Spain - 160 Fines of the camera 175 Flagellants at Cadiz 436 Flail at Oviedo - 54 Florida Blanca, count, at Ma- drid - - 135. 264 Flotas trading to America 397 Foffils 25. 50. 57. 433. 441 Friction of wheels 27 Funerals in Spain - 437 Galleons trading to Porto Bello - - 398 Galvez, Don Jofeph de, his hiftory - - 267 Garden of S. Ildefonfo 1 1 1 Gardening, reflections on 1 13 Garvanzos 3 Garpacho - * 290 Gijon - - 49 Giralda, of Seville 315 Glafs manufacture at S. Ilde- fonfo - - 114 Government, its change, ad- G g % verfe INDEX. verfe to the population of Spain *■ - 225 Gremios of Madrid 174. 211. 247 Grit, theory of 89. 300 Grimaldi, marquis of, minif- ter - - 265 Grey whethers on the Wilt- fhire downs - 89 Gunpowder, a royal mono- poly - - 180 Guevara, abbe, at Madrid *37 Guadarrama - - 109 Guadarornan « 29c Guadalquiver,a river 300. 363 Guadalajara - 270 Hofpicio, Medicine, at the loweft ebb in Spain - - 37 Medias Annatas - 169 Medina Csli, his eftabliih- ment at Madrid - 157 Merino flock - 61. 307 59 Millones Mieres N D E X. MiHones - 164. 178 Minifters of Hate at Madrid 254 Mines of Spain, their produce 4*3 Mint at Seville - 337 Monopolies tend to depopulate a country 240. 401. 410 Montanus, Arias - 328 Moors, their cxpulfion 224 Moors, their depredations 224 Mofqujto fetdement - 425 Mules, their docility 131 Munoz, Juan 3"'«^ifta, his commifiion 137. 275 M^nfter, peace of, - 189 Murillo, his principal works at Seville - - 320 Navas del Marques 107 Naval Peral - 107 Navy of .Spain 422 to 428 Negroes in the Spanifh Set- tlements - 408 Nitre, 1/. Saltpetre. Nodin, colonel, his commif- fion - - 273 Notaries taxed - 177 Nunneries injurious to health - 40 Ocana - - 280 Olavidc, D. Pablo de 290. 344 O'Reilly, count 370. 419 Ortega, D. Cafimiro Gomez I37-274 Organ, new conftru&ion of one at Seville 3 1 8 Orry, prefident - 166 Ovieco, marquis de, at Ma- drid - - 137 Oviedo - - - I Oxen ufed for draught 30. 97 Palmco duty - 397. 400 Pantheon at the Efcurial 122 Paper credit not fuited to a defpotic government 196 Papin, Dr. his machine 55 Pafture of the mafterfhips 177 Paflure, its prevalence tends to depopulate a country 235 Patrimonial rents - 179 Pehanel, marquis of 157 Pehalba, count de *- 4 Peran - - 50 Perfecution, a caufe of depo.- pulation - - 244 Petroleum 24 Philippine Company 404 Pidlures, representing the fuf- ferings of the Redeemer, in a convent at Seville 326 Pittures, private collections of, at Madrid - 159 Piedrahita 95 Pilgrims going to San J ago 1 7' si Pilgrims, hofpital for/ at O- viedo • - 16 Plague INDEX, Plague depopulated Spain 2 1 9 Playhoufes at Madrid 154 Ploughs of Leon - / 66 Ploughs at Oviedo - 25 .,, , ■■»— of Salamanca 86 Population of Spain 2 1 3 of the Sierra Mo- rena - - 291. 292 . , principles of 293. - - 385 t0 391 See alfo Depopulation. Porter brewers ufe liquorice 35 6 Port Royal, near Cadiz 423 Polls and couriers - 177 Provincial rents - 178 —prejudices againft trade 240 Proceffions at Oviedo 5 Propios and Arbitrios 177 Provifions, price of, 31. 36. 46. 69. 71. 278. 282. 289. 299. 302. 304. 361. 442. Pudding ftone - 304 Puerto de Fuenfria 109 Puerto, de Santa Maria 366 Puerto Lapiche, Las Ventas de - - 283 Quemader.o - 341 Quickfilver mines and con- trad - - 412 Rappee made at Seville 330 j&egratora, - 231 Relacion de los meritos 340 Rents, general - 178 Rents of Madrid - 179 Rent of the priory of S. Juan 179 Rentas de arrendamiento 179 Revenue of Spain 160 Revenue, American 175. 181 Rivera de Abajo 23 Roads in Spain 31. 107 Rodriguez Ignacio, the beg- gar " " 345 Royal manufactures tend to depopulate a country 240 Royal thirds 163. 178 Saffron, growing wild 105. 107 Salamanca - - 73 Saltpetre, a royal monopoly 180 . — — manufacture 282 Salt works, a royal monopoly 179 San Benito, or Saco Bendito 351 San&iflimo Sudario, at Oviedo 21 Santa Cruz - - 288 Sangrado, a common charac- ter in Spain - 38 Santa Elena - 289 Santa Ovefia - 69 Sarna in the Alturias 1 1 Scribc6 INDEX. Scribes in the market place at ' Cadiz - - 436 Segovia - - 115 Sequaca - - 296 Sequidilla, a dance and fong 364 Serena pafture - 177 Servicio y montazgo 181 Service, ordinary and extra- ordinary - 1 79 Seville - - 312 Shearing lhcep - 63 Sierra Morena 288. 202 Silk manufacture at Seville 33 2 Sirones, in the Afturias 1 3 Slaves in the Spanifh fettle- ments_ - 408 Smoking in the Afturias 45 Smugglers at Ecija 306 ■ — feverity of their punifhment - 426 . underfold the go- vernment in fnufF 330 Snuft* manufacture at Seville 328 Solano,Don Antonio 154. 275 Solano wind 360. 439 Sowing, Hampfhire method 86 Specie, duty on its exportation 204 Squilace, marquis of 199 Stamp duties - 183 Stations, facred, in a convent of Seville - - 326 Subfidy, a tax - 180 Sulphur, a royal monopoly 1 80 Tanning, at Seville 335 Tape, weaving machine 85 Taxes farmed 166, 167. 228 Tembleque - - 282 Tenantry laws - 50 Tenantry, wanted in Spain 105. 239. Terefa, S. life of - 100 Tcrtullas - 4. 139 Threlhing at Oviedo 54 Tirana, a Spanifh fong 364 Toleration, advantageous to population -. 245 Toral - t 6j Trafhu'mantes, or travelling flocks - - 61 Travelling, expence of 118 — ' method of, in Spain 303 Tupacamaro, cafique of Are- quipa - - 411 Valdemoro - - 279 Valdepehas, famous for wine 287 Valdes, D. Antonio, his cha- racter - - 268 Vauguions, Duke de la, at Madrid - - 136 Vellon I N D E X. Vellon - - 165 Wine of Valdepeiias 288 Vifits, in Spain 37.142 Wool - - 63.181 Woollen manufacture of Sego- Ulloa, Don Antonio, at Cadiz via - - 116 ' - - 440 Workhoufe at Cadiz 374 to Univerfity of Salamanca yj - - 384 Univerfity of Seville 327 Wcrkhoufe at Oviedo 6 of Salamanca 84 War, deftruftivetothepopula- Worm fever - 16 tion of Spain 222 Weights and meafures at Ca- Yeomanry, wanted in Spain diz - - 442 - - 230 Wheat, price of, in Seville 362 Yriartes, two brothers 274 Winnowing at Oviedo 55 Wines of Cadiz - 418 Zamora - - 70 Wine of Manzanares 286 Zoguega - - 296 END OF THE SECOND VOLUME. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFon — F( '83 o-u«t t- ".r\r -OKI '988 iou fe -^j.unii-Jtt* >clOSANGELfj> CO — ^/SMAINMK* ^UIBRARY0/\ INfHlW (P 3 1158 00628 3674 33° % X UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 000 176 217 o — f f o -T, Q - INVSO 1 \