THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES I iaV d THE TEAYELS OF A STTGAK PLANTER. THE TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER OR, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. BY H. W. ALLEN. NEW YORK : JOHN F. TROW, PRINTER, 43 & 50 GIIEENE STREET. 1861. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1861, BY J. F. TROW. In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. TO " TIIE GOOD PEOPLE OF TIIE PARISH OP WEST BATON ROUGE, LA., MY FRIENDS, WHO HAVE EVER GIVEN ME THEIR FULLEST CONFIDENCE AND HIGHEST ESTEEM, THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY AND GRATEFULLY DEDICATED, BY THEIR REPRESENTATIVE. Allandale Plantation, Sept. 25th, 1S60. 00 X SO CONTENTS. I. Letter FROM Liverpool, England, II. <( hen- ever I think of it, raven locks, and pearly teeth, and sweet pouting lips and languishing eyes, come right up before me in all their loveliness, and cause even at this day a slight palpitation of the heart. 96 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; While upon ^the subject of songs, I must tell you of the " Eanz de vaches." I heard it last night for the second time since I have been in Switzer- land. I had just retired to bed, and although very much fatigued, after hearing this wild mountain song I could not sleep for hours. The thoughts of home, and joyous faces, and happy friends came gushing up before me, and seemed to oppress my very soul. I give you from a good Swiss author- ity, the following description of this great national melody, which will be read with much interest by your many readers : " It is not uncommon to fine the Kanz de vaches spoken of by persons unacquainted with Switzer- land and the Alps, as a single air, whereas they are a class of melodies prevailing among and pe- culiar to the Alpine valleys. Almost every valley has an air of its own, but the original air is said to be that of Appenzell. Their effect in producing home-sickness in the heart of the Swiss mountain- eer, when heard in a distant land, and the prohibi- tion of this music in the Swiss regiments in the service of France, on account of the number of de- sertions occasioned by it, are stories often repeated and founded on fact. These national songs are particularly wild in their character, yet full of melody ; the choruses consist of a few remarkable shrill notes, uttered by a peculiar falsetto intonation in the throat. They originate in the practice of the shepherds on the Alps, of communicating with one another at the distance of a mile or more, by OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. U7 pitching the voice high. The name Panz de vaches (German, Kuhreihen) literally means cow- rows, and is obviously derived from the order in which the cows march home at milking time, in obedience to the shepherd's call, communicating by the voice or through the Alp horn, a simple tube of wood wound round with bark, five or six feet long, admitting of but slight modulation, yet very melodious when caught up and prolonged by the mountain echoes. In some of the remoter pas- toral districts of Switzerland, from which the an- cient simplicity of manners is not altogether ban- ished, the Alp horn supplies on the higher pastures where no church is near, the place of the vesper bell. The cow herd, posted on the highest peak, as soon as the sun has set, pours forth the first four or five notes of the Psalm, ' Praise God the Lord.' The same notes are repeated from distant Alps, and all within hearing, uncovering their heads and bending their knees, repeat their evening orison ; after which the cattle are penned in their stalls, and the shepherds betake themselves to rest." This description is from high authority, and is true to the letter, but on last night the " Panz de vaches " was most shamefully desecrated. It was sang with great effect in the streets of Zurich by a band of rollicking youth, who seemed to be on a general " burst." The great Addison was much surprised to find that the little boys in Paris spoke French ! But I confess that I was not at all as- tonished to see the big hoys of Zurich on " a bend- 98 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER J er," for the wine here is very good, and the lager is really delicious. Zurich, the most important manufacturing town in Switzerland, and the capital of a canton, has a population of 17,000 inhabitants, nearly all Prot- estants. It is situated on the north end of Lake Zurich, and on the banks of the Liramatt River, just where it issues out of the lake. The banks of the lake and the river, and all the neighboring hills, are thickly dotted over with beautiful houses, built generally in the romantic Swiss style. There are no very fine public buildings here. The cathe- dral, surmounted by two steeples, is venerable for its age, having been built in the 10th century, and is worthy of respect from having been the scene of Zwingli's bold preachings of Reformation. It is a massive Romanesque edifice, very plain within and without. The house in which the great Reformer himself lived, is still standing in the Grosse stadt, and is an object of general attraction. The next church of much interest is St. Peter's. It stands on the left bank of the Limmatt, and had for its pastor for 23 years the celebrated Lavater, the au- thor of the renowned work on physiognomy. This divine met with a melancholy fate. On the cap- ture of the town by the French army, he was shot within a few steps of his own door, by a French soldier, whom he had treated with great kindness and liberality. A high reward was offered by Massena, the French general, for the discovery of the murderer, but the good Lavater refused to in- OR, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 99 form against him. Lavater died on the 2d Janu- ary, 1801. His grave is marked by a simple stone in the churchyard of St. Anne. In the Town Library are many volumes and manuscripts of rare merit. Among them I saw three Latin letters of Lady Jane Grey to Bullinger, in a beautiful, clear, and regular Jiand ; also Zwin- gli's Greek Bible, with marginal notes by himself. Zurich has its university, which is flourishing very well, but it is as a manufacturing town that this place is chiefly remarkable. Silks and cottons are here spun and woven into all sorts of tissues, and are the objects of extensive commerce with Italy and Germany. There are also very extensive iron foundries and machine-shops here, where all the lake steamers are made, many being hauled across the mountains on wagons, and then put together at their place of destination. Not only are there many large manufacturing establishments in Zurich, but I noticed all along the lake, the brilliant colors of the calicoes exposed to the sun, by acres and acres. Lake Zurich is one of the most charming sheets of water of mountainous, romantic Switzer- land. It is 23 miles long, averaging 1 mile wide, and is especially remarkable for the peculiar soft- ness of its scenery. Here is none of the wild and savage grandeur of Lake Lucerne, nor is there the oppressive stillness of the barren heaths of Loch Lomond, but the song of the vine-dresser and the busy hum of a thriving and industrious population are heard in every direction. The slopes of the 100 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; hills surrounding this beautiful lake may be called one immense vineyard. Here the vine grows to great perfection, and yields a very delicious wine. The Canton of Zurich may be said to be more hilly than mountainous. The grasses, wheat, rye, bar- ley, oats, and corn grow here very well, and are produced in large quantities, for the Swiss farmers are proverbial for their great success in the appli- cation of fertilizers. The German language is spoken here ; at Ge- neva they speak French, and in St. Gall and the Grisons Italian, or a corrupt Latin called Romanish. Notwithstanding these peculiarities or differences of language, the Swiss have lived so long in a state of confederation, that they have acquired a decided national character, and may now be considered as forming a single people. The surroundings of the town of Zurich are really most delightful. In the new Botanical Garden there is an elevated mound called the Cat's Bastion. Nothing can be more charming than the view at sunset from this point, extending over the smiling and populous shores of the beautiful lake, to the distant peaks and glaciers of Glarus and of Uri. These become tinged with the most delicate pink by the distant rays of the sun, and present- to the enraptured vision such a scene that no mortal painter could ever attempt to imitate. But Zurich, above all other things, lives in history, and will continue to live as long as his- tory is read, for being the place where the Refor- mation commenced in Switzerland. In 1519 that OR, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 101 bold and fearless man, Ulric Zwingli, began to de- nounce from the pulpit the sale of indulgences. He denounced the immoralities of the times, and necessarily raised around him a host of vindictive enemies. Like a patriot and a hero he breasted the storm for years. Civil war ensued. Swiss met Swiss on the bloody field of Cappel, and there this heroic divine fell, battle-axe in hand, with helmet on, his face to his God and his feet to his foe. The char- acter of Ulric Zwingli is one on which the historian delights to dwell. With the simplicity of a child and'the piety of a devoted Christian, he possessed all the learning of a ripe scholar, with the daring courage of a gallant soldier. He died at the early age of 47, and was emphatically a heroic leader of the " church militant." While in Zurich I went to church (Sunday) and heard a sermon in German, from a distinguished professor in the university. The tones of the voice were often guttural, sometimes nasal, but never musical. Of course I could not understand a word the man said, but busied myself in noticing the manner in which the deacons of the church kept the boys and girls quiet. There were some three or four hundred in attendance, and as boys and girls will do, they kept up a constant " telegraphic snigger " with one another. During service these deacons, four in number, would be always on the move. If a boy was misbehaving, the first thing that would astonish his vision would be the stern face and staring eyes and bald head of the omni- 102 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; present deacon. This invariably made the young- ster " dry up," and restored good order. I com- mend this to our own countrymen, for it is a most excellent plan to secure an orderly and quiet con- gregation of young people. The Congress is now in session here, at my hotel, trying to fix up the peace of Yillafranca. Liveried carriages are driving around, and diplo- mats are flitting about with the usual number of newsmongers and hangers on, all of which give this quiet town a decidedly gay and bustling ap- pearance. Adieu. I leave this evening, and will be to- morrow one of the pilgrims on the banks of the Rhine. Yours truly, H. W. A. OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUEOFE. 103 LETTER NO. XY. Hotel de Russie, Baden-Baden, August 31, 1859. Editors Advocate : Gentlemen — I arrived at this place on yester- day evening, and forthwith proceeded to take a bath, and then, as a matter of course, to bet a few Napoleon at Rouge et Noir. This is indeed a place to see sights. It is one vast " omnium gatherum" of all creation. It seems to me that all the ugly women and bald-headed men in Europe have as- sembled here to have a " kind of a show " of ugly faces and bald heads. The Ugly Club of Port Hudson is nothing compared to Baden-Baden at all, at all. The visitors are principally Germans and French, with a smart sprinkle of English and Americans. The improvements are good. The hotels, about a dozen in number, are very fine, with the most amiable and accommodating landlords. The waters of Baden have for centuries been vis- ited for their healing qualities. A spring almost scalding hot issues from a mountain, and is con- 104: TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; ducted into an immense building with marble col- umns and fresco paintings, where the visitors daily assemble to drink the water. Here are long galleries for promenading in rainy weather. But the great feature of Baden is its " conver- sation" or gambling saloon. This is an enormous palace, fitted up in the most gorgeous style, even with oriental luxuriance. Here are three large tables, two Rouge et IsToir, or " Trente et Quar- ante," played with cards, and one roulette table. Men and women, old and young, assemble around these tables at 11 o'clock every day, and play with- out ceasing till one or two at night. Every thing is conducted in the most quiet and peaceable man- ner, the dealers and managers of the game being exceedingly accurate and expert in raking down the winnings and paying the losses. I saw one man frequently bet ten thousand francs " on the Rouge " and win it. Many, however, lose heavily, and render themselves miserable for life, often committing suicide. The company who own the bank, pays yearly $30,000 to the civil authorities of Baden, and at the same time has to expend a very large amount to furnish the establishment and keep the grounds in order. The " lady gamblers " here all have an air of abandon. They wear straw hats with feathers ; some wear in their hats the en- tire plumage of the pheasant — all of which gives them a jaunty, sharp, knowing appearance, that is rather unpleasant to a man of my " retiring habits and excessive modesty." \ OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUEOPE. 105 We had a grand ball here to-night, which was of course very much crowded. The music was most excellent, the band being the Austrian Impe- rial. I do not think they dance as gracefully here as we do in Louisiana. The Austrian officers dance well, but carry themselves in a very stiff and un- graceful manner. Their coat-tails are entirely too short, which gives them the unpoetic appearance of " bobbing around." Among the ladies I saw but few pretty ones, the eternal Austrian pouting lips give them a coarse appearance — nearly all have red or flaxen hair, some even have yellow hair. In dress and style I think our American ladies are far ahead of any thing I have seen here — and as to beauty there is no comparison. Baden is situated very much like the Sweet Springs of Virginia, in a beautiful valley. In the distance is the great Black Forest of Germany. Many wealthy persons have built themselves ele- gant cottages here, and come regularly every year to spend the summer. Every hotel is most beauti- fully decorated with vines and flowers, while the numerous walks over hill and dale are truly invit- ing to all who want delightful exercise. On my way here I stopped and spent a night in Stras- bourg. Early in the morning I climbed to the top of the Cathedral, and took a good view of France, Switzerland, and Germany, then went back to my hotel, and ordered for breakfast a Strasbourg pie. Last Sunday I spent " on the banks of Zurich's sweet waters." After going to church I took an 5* 106 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; excursion bv steamer, to the head of Lake Zurich. It is a charming lake, and very thickly settled. It appears to be a continued village from one end of the lake to the other, while every foot of land seems to be planted in vines. Zurich is celebrated for having been the residence of the great reformer Zwingli, and the learned Lavater. They both died violent deaths — Zwingli was killed in battle, and Lavater was assassinated by a French soldier under Massena, during the battle of Zurich, in 1799. Zu- rich is the most enterprising and flourishing of all the Swiss Cantons. Here are extensive manufac- tories of silk and cotton goods, while the wines are very good. The library contains many old and interesting manuscripts. The arsenal is much re- sorted to, to see the identical cross-bow with which William Tell shot the apple from his son's head. The Congress of the three powers, France, Austria, and Sardinia, is still in session in Zurich. They go very quietly to work, and discuss the af- fairs of Italy with closed doors. It is generally believed that its conclusions will be acquiesced in by all parties, and that peace and quiet will once more be restored. Yours very truly, H. W. A. OB, SIX MONTHS IN EUKOPE. 107 LETTER NO. XVI. Hotel de la Rose, Wiesbaden, Germany, Sept. 3. 1859. Editoes Advocate : Gentlemen — I arrived here last evening from Frankfort-on-the-Main. The whole of Germany lies as it were " in a heap." Our friend, N. W. Pope, Esq., could take his cane and walk around one of their Duchies before breakfast. The city of Frankfort is a very pretty place, well located on the Main, and is one of the four free cities of Ger- many. It is a very old city, and has for many years been the centre of capital and money lend- ers, stocks, and stock-jobbers. Here the Roths- childs were born, and here they made the begin- ning of their immense fortune. This is also a kind of entrepot for central Europe, receiving the pro- ductions and manufactures of all parts of the world, to be distributed in detail over the whole continent. Here are also many works of art. In a small mu- seum built of marble and shaped like a Grecian 108 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; temple, not like that built by our friend Moise, is the celebrated statue of " Ariadne by Dannecker." I have seen nothing in all my travels equal to it. It is very properly the boast of Frankfort, and draws crowds of visitors from all parts of Europe to see it. The statue is life-like — Ariadne is seated on a lioness, in a nude state. The features are af- ter the highest order of classic art, while the body and limbs have all the luxurious plumpness of the Yenus de Medicis. In the Stadel Museum of pictures are some very fine paintings. Among them are two by Lessing, " the trial of John Hubs," and the " "Wise and Foolish Virgins," most admirable paintings. Frankfort was the birthplace of the great poet Goethe, and in one of the public squares stands his colossal statue by Schwantholar of Munich. Here also the celebrated Martin Luther, the great Ke- former, lived. On his house there is the following Latin inscription: "In silentio et spe erit fortitudo vestra." The Jews are very numerous here, and com- mand great influence as merchants and bankers. The Jewish maidens are very pretty, much the prettiest ladies that I have seen in all Germany. Their dark hair, the cold black liquid eye, the pen- sive but sweet face, bring back to my mind the Kebecca of Ivanhoe so beautifully described by Sir Walter Scott. From Frankfort to this place, Wiesbaden, you pass through the small village of Hockheim, where OR, SIX MOKTHS IN EUROPE. 109 the excellent wine of that name is made. It be- longs to the Duke of Nassau, and yields him a large revenue in wines. The Rhine wines are very line and exceedingly cheap. For instance you get a bottle of best Ilockheimer here for two florins — that is about 80 cents — while the Yin Ordinaire of the country — very good table wine, and pure — can be had for 10 cents a bottle. Wiesbaden is the capital of the Duchy of Nas- sau, and is the residence of the duke. It is re- markable for its hot baths, and is a great watering place on the same 'style as Baden-Baden. It is more frequented than any of the other German watering places, and may be called the Saratoga of this country. The Kursaal or gambling saloons are fitted up here with the most utter contempt of expense. It comes nearer the Pre Catalan at Paris than any other place I have yet seen. Here are col- onades for walking in rainy weather, half a mile long, with fountains and flowers, serpentine walks up the mountains, and fishing in the Rhine. The gambling saloons are gorgeous in the extreme. There are six tables of Rouge et Noir. Around them an eager and impatient crowd is continually pressing to get an opportunity to lose their money. I saw an old, paralytic, gray-headed sinner, with, one foot in the grave, betting with all the eagerness of a youth of nineteen. By his side stood a beau- tiful girl, seemingly not over seventeen, with jew- elled fingers placing handfuls of Napoleons " on the Rouge." 110 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; The Duke of Nassau receives yearly the large sum of 43,000 florins for the license of this estab- lishment, but at the same time prohibits by very severe penalties any of his subjects from betting at the banking games of "Wiesbaden. He invites all foreigners to come and bet and spend their money freely, but will not permit his own people to do the same. "Wise man that Duke ! In going to Frankfort I passed Heidelberg, where I spent several hours — visited the castle and the university, and took a delightful ride up the Neckar. The university has 700 students. Here you will recollect Jenny Lind was received in great state, and the hospitality of Heidelberg presented to her in a " tobacco box." Sunday Morning, Cologne, Prussia. Not having an opportunity of closing my letter at "Wiesbaden on yesterday, I have deferred it till to-day. I took steamer yesterday morning at Bi- berich (the port for "Wiesbaden) and arrived at this place last night. The Rhine is a beautiful stream, about the size of Red River. It is very shallow in many places, and causes much delay in navigation during low water. Still up as high as Mayence small boats make regular trips. The great beaut} 7 of the Rhine scenery is the numerous castles which stud its banks, many of them now in YQry good repair. The vine is also here in the highest state of culti- vation. I noticed in passing many high cliffs, that OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. Ill large baskets of earth were suspended and vines planted in them. A few miles from Mayence and near the village of Oestrich, is the celebrated chateau of Prince Metternich, called Johannisberg, of which you have often heard so much. From this vineyard comes the far-famed Johan- nisberger wine, very much in demand with us. The chateau and vineyard are on the top of a high hill — a most romantic location. The vineyard con- tains only 70 acres, and averages about 160 casks per year. Thus you see we can't possibly get much from Johannisberg. The best of these wines are put away in the large cellars of the chateau, and the rest sold to whoever may wish to buy them. A few miles above, nearly adjoining, is the Steinberg chateau, where the Stein wines are made, almost equal to the Johannisberg. Thus, all along the Rhine are different chateaus, where dif- ferent kinds of Rhine wines are made. I find, however, that the great majority of wines shipped to our country are bought up by the wholesale merchant, who mixes them (all pure wines) to suit color and taste — bottles and labels, and ships them abroad. It is very seldom, indeed, that a real pure bottle of Johannisberg wine reaches America. The wine may be the pure juice of the grape, but not from the Chateau Johannisberg. Everybody talks Dutch here. A few moments ago a chubby-faced, red-cheeked chambermaid came into my room with a pitcher of hot water — for there being no barbers here, every man shaves 112 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; himself: says I, " Parlez vons Tangle?" Said she, " Yaw, hot wather." " D — n it," says I, " do you speak English ? " " Yaw, yaw — goot hot wa- ther ! " I had read Bulwer's Pilgrims of the Rhine, and remembered Byron's description : " The castled crags of Drachenfels Frown o'er the wide and winding Rhine, Whose breast of waters breadly swells Between the banks which bear the vine, And peasant girls with deep blue eyes Walk smilingly o'er this Paradise" — but must confess that I am disappointed. To one fresh from the wild scenes of Switzerland the Phine is tame and spiritless. There is much beau- ty, but little grandeur. The villages are pictur- esque, the castles interesting, as evidences of feu- dal power, and the river is a quiet tranquil stream of a pale green color, just such scenery as would please a love-sick maiden. But the grandeur of Mount Blanc is wanting — the rugged precipices of the Bay of Uri — the lofty mountains of Loch Lo- mond — even the Trosachs of Lake Katrine, are all far more sublime than any thing on the Phine. Still tourists run crazy over the Phine. On the steamer coming down, were about 1,001 men and women, all with guide-books, and sketch- books, knapsacks and carpet-bags, and all " Pil- grims of the Rhine," determined to be charmed, determined to be delighted, determined to be en- raptured. Says Miss Araminta Horsefly, (a Ian- OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 113 guishing maid of sixteen,) " O mamma ! do look at that nice old castle. Isn't it a love of a thing?" Lady Penelope Penfeather, (a very spiritudle widow,) " Oh, yes, it is charming — b-e-a-u-t-i-ful." There is a legend about the seven sisters who lived in that castle. A huge Dutchman here chimes in, " Yah, dat ish goot," while an English cockney, with a glass screwed into his eye, drawls out, " Yas, dem foin." I am sick of the Rhine. The boats are small and miserably constructed. In case it rains, unless you have an umbrella, you had better jump into the river at once in order to keep from getting wet. On landing here, every thing is in confusion. Everybody is in everybody's way, keeping every- body as long as possible from getting everybody's baggage. If our friend Capt. Cotton would only run the Kenner or the Capitol up the Rhine with the stars and stripes, and learn these people some- thing about the comforts and luxuries of an Amer- ican steamer, I verily believe the travelling public would build him a monument on the " castled crags of Drachenfels." Adieu. I am off to-night for Brussels and the field of Waterloo. H. W. A. 114 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; LETTER NO. XYII. Hotel Rubens, Antwerp, Belgium, September 6, 1859. Editors Advocate : Gentlemen — I arrived at this place last night, and have spent the day in visiting the various churches, and studying the paintings of the great Rubens. This city was his home, and here are to be found his great master-pieces. In the Cathe- dral of Notre Dame is his " Descent from the Cross," and " The Crucifixion." The last is con- sidered by artists to be one of the best paintings in the world. For great agony of expression in the dying thief, there is nothing like it. It is terribly frightful, so much so, that you involuntarily turn from it with a shudder. Rubens is almost deified in Belgium, and particularly in Antwerp. The Church of St. Jaccmes is the richest in marble sculpture and statuary of any in Belgium. Here is to be seen the altar-piece of Carrara marble brought by Rubens from Italy. In the museum OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 115 are thirteen more of his paintings, all of them con- sidered as great treasures, and which no money could buy. Here are also six original paintings by Van Dyck, most excellent specimens of this great master. He excels in portraits, while Rubens' great forte was in representing the dead body and the agony of the dying. When Napoleon took Belgium, the first thing he did was to seize these paintings, and carry them off to Paris, but after the battle of Waterloo, they were brought back and restored to their lawful owners. There are a great many private galleries of most excellent paintings in Antwerp, all rich in the works of the old masters. It seems that the moderns have lost the art (or rather have never found it) of great con- ception in painting — they also fail in the coloring. ISTo modern artist has ever equalled the rich color- ing of Rembrandt and Rubens, or the soft, silky touch of Murillo and Raphael. The works of art are so rich and numerous in Antwerp, that a traveller could stay here for months. In the Church of St. Paul are the finest specimens of carving in oak — the pulpit is a wonderful tri- umph of a Jesuit's chisel. It represents Christ meeting the fishermen Peter and Andrew, all full size. The nets and fishes, the rocks and waves, the attitude of the fishermen, and the expression of the features of the Saviour, all are wonderfully given. In the museum of paintings is a very large painting by Frans Floris, (Flemish school,) called '•The Descent of the Fallen Angels." On one of these 116 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER J individuals is painted a large fly, and it is so nat- ural that hundreds have attempted, in passing, to " brush away that blue-tail fly." Attached to this same church is the representation of Mount Cal- vary, a very striking thing. An artificial hill is made of rock, and a crucifix with the Saviour placed on it. About 100 fine statues surround it. Death and the Serpent lie conquered at the foot of the cross. Antwerp is quite a large place, having about 120,000 inhabitants. It is the commercial empo- rium of Belgium. Here are fine docks for ship- ping, and hundreds of sail and steamships leave here for all parts of the world. There is a fine line of steamers to New York. The Scheldt is a quiet, sluggish river, very deep, and affords good navigation for the largest size vessels. The banks of the river are low, and the levees are high, which reminds me very much of the latitude of West Baton Rouge. I am now in the land of cabbages and wooden shoes. All the lower classes wear the sabot or clog, and such a pattering along the streets you never did hear. Still they all seem happy, and well-fed and con- tented. There are no beggars here, and but few loafers. The women are generally stout and strong, and work in the fields, and even on the railroad as laborers. While at Cologne the other day, I visited the Church of St. Ursula, where I saw the bones of the 11,000 virgins who were murdered there by OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 117 the Huns under Attila. I think I could have put those 11,000 virgins to a better use. I never saw such a " pile of bones " before. They are placed in every conceivable shape — they are even nailed up against the walls in the form of letters, and the name of many a saint is spelled in hones. In Co- logne is the great Cathedral, the most remarkable perhaps in the world. It is now the largest, and its steeples, when completed, will be the tallest. In its immense aisles you are completely lost. I visited the Cathedral during high mass, and was very much entertained with the fine music. There is a huge organ, and also a full band of instru* mental music, with a large number of singers, male and female. A magnificent iron bridge has just been built over the Khine at this place. From Cologne I passed on to Aix-la-Chapelle. This is quite a city for summer resort. It contains hot springs and baths, which are much used by the people of Belgium. It also contains the cathedral in which was buried Charlemagne. His head and arms and legs (that is the bones) are still preserved in gold cases. Also are seen in this cathedral the many very valuable relics presented to Charle- magne by Harun al Raschid, the mighty Sultan. The sultan and Charlemagne were great friends, and their mutual admiration for each other seems to have been only equalled by their great liberal- ity. The sultan sends his imperial brother a piece of the true cross, a thorn from, the crown, and the 118 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER J veritable girdle of the Saviour — all of these are set in gold and precious stones, making the most splendid array of barbaric magnificence I ever saw. From Aix I went to Brussels, where I spent yesterday. Brussels is a very American-looking place, with nice streets and fine parks. It is full of monuments and statues, some of them very fine. It also has the fine manufactories of lace, for which it is more particularly known by the ladies of our country. I visited the factories, and saw the most beautiful articles being made. It is all done by hand. The thread is made at Yalenciennes from the common flax, and sells for more than its weight in gold. But Brussels is close to Waterloo, and hence thousands visit it to see the great battle-field where the giants fought. The village of Waterloo is twelve miles from Brussels, and lies in a beautiful rolling country, well suited for a great battle. On the battle-field is a huge mound of earth 225 feet high, and surmounted by an immense stone statue of the Belgic Lion, who looks towards France with a bold and triumphant look. This statue is partic- ularly offensive to all Frenchman. Indeed, a Frenchman seldom comes to Waterloo. In 1830, when the French troops were marching through Brussels on to Holland, a French soldier went up to the lion on the Waterloo monument, and broke his majesty'' s tail into three pieces ! He was de- tected in attempting to blow up the whole concern, OR, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 119 and arrested by the authorities, who keep a guard there now to protect it. The Belgians speak French. It is their national language. I attended the sitting of the Senate, which is now in session, and heard several speeches, all in French. They read their speeches, as many of our senators do, hut do not imitate the Ameri- cans in length, theirs being always very short. The Hague, Holland, Sept. 8. I could not close my letter at Antwerp, but came on by railway to Delft, and thence by steamer to Rotterdam — thence to this place. Delft is an ancient place. "We know it in our country princi- pally from its giving the name to our common earthenware. The extensive manufacture of pot- tery has in a great measure ceased. Here Grotius, the great law writer, was born. Also here William I., Prince of Orange, was assassinated. A few miles farther on is Rotterdam, the second city in Holland. It is a queer-looking place. Every street has its canal. Boats, even large ships, are seen in the very heart of the city. The dogs here take the place of horses, and it is astonishing what immense loads they can pull. The whole country is much lower than the sea — protected by immense levees or dykes, as they call them here. Dogs, dykes, and windmills are great institutions in Hol- land. Still the women are pretty, right down pretty. They all look fresh and clean, and healthy. True tliev have broad flat feet and round chubbv 120 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; faces, and can't say a word, but the eternal yaw — yaw — still, I like the Dutch gals. Adieu, my dear sirs. I leave to-day for the mouth of the Rhine, to examine the huge locks and dams that the Dutch engineers have built, in order to scour out the channel of this great European Mississippi. Truly yours, H. W.A OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUKOPE. 121 LETTER NO. XYIII. Amsterdam, Holland, Sept. 9, 1859. Editors Advocate : — - I have just finished, after a hard day's labor, the examination of the locks at the mouth of the Rhine, and the huge pumps or water-works at Haarlem Lake. They are both immense works, and to a Louisianian full of interest. The locks were finished under the reign of Louis Bonaparte ; since the restoration, however, the very name of Bonaparte has been erased, and the chief engi- neer's placed in its stead. For many centuries the Rhine, in emptying its waters into the North Sea, had overflowed an immense country at its mouth ; just as the Mississippi does at present. The Dutch came to the conclusion that it was best to tap the Rhine near its mouth, and thus let off its surplus waters, and at the same time carry off the rain- water which was doing them great damage. For this purpose they have dug a huge canal, and con- structed three locks across it, which opens to the 122 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER \ Rhine and shuts against the sea. "When the tide is high the gates are shut, when it is low they are open. This canal is 300 feet wide, and 20 feet deep, and 25 miles long ! But the great work of Holland is the reclaiming of Haarlem Lake. This was a lake of water 20 miles long, and containing an area of 45,000 acres. They went to work and built a levee around this lake 15 feet high, and then started three huge draining machines, each machine working eleven monster pumps, six feet in diameter ! They kept all these pumps going for four years, when the very bottom of the lake became dry land. The land was sold at a very high price, and the drain- ing machines are still kept up at an annual tax of about 50 cents per acre. It is now a rich and flourishing country, with handsome dwellings and splendid farms, where the salt sea once remained supreme. From the tower or observatory of the huge draining machine, you can see almost to Am- sterdam, a distance of 30 miles. Land that was once covered with water, is now worth 500 guilders per acre, while smiling plenty is seen on every hand. The soil reclaimed is peculiarly rich, and commands a much higher price than other lands. Last night I spent in the Hague. It is the cap- ital of Holland, and full of interesting reminis- cences. The streets are narrow but clean, and the houses generally built of brick, covered with the Dutch tile. The churches of Holland have all been stripped of their paintings and statuary. OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 123 They present cold, damp Avails, and remind one of the days of William of Orange. I stopped to-day at Leyden, and spent the day. In the town-hall are many fine paintings, one particularly that is known to history. It is "The Last Judgment," by Lucas of Leyden, over four hundred years old, and still the coloring is good, and the painting considered one of the very best of the old masters. In this great painting, hell is represented on the left, and a legion of devils are engaged in pulling and driving the wicked into eternal torment, while a huge devil is pushing a beautiful woman into the mouth of the fiery dragon, with a pitchfork. The burgomaster of the town was very polite, and opened the doors of the gal- leries without pay or reward. This is the first col- lection of paintings that I have seen in Europe without paying for it. The Dutch are a very persevering, industrious people. The ride from the Hague to Leyden is a delightful one. You pass through an immense for- est, all planted by the present generation, and since the land has been reclaimed from the sea. There are also many very elegant private residences, sur- rounded with flowers and fountains, and all that art could suggest or wealth buy. Amsterdam is a large city ; it has over 200,000 inhabitants. Here are all nations of the world as- sembled. It is the northern Venice of Europe. Hundreds of families live in boats and die in boats. The streets are like Rotterdam, that is, a canal for 124: TRAVELS OF A SUGAK PLANTER; every street. The Jews are very numerous, and have great influence as bankers and jewellers. This is the only city that manufactures the smalt used so extensively in painting on porcelain ; also borax is very extensively made here. Here also are the lapidaries, who grind the precious stones and cut the diamonds. In the museum are many fine paintings ; among them is one by Vander Heist, called " The Miracle of Holland." It is a very large painting, containing twenty-five por- traits, all true to life, and most admirably done. These are considered by artists to be the best por- traits in the world. The palace is an immense building, and is the spring residence of the king. It is finished in the most gorgeous and elaborate style with marble carvings. The ball-room is 180 feet long and 90 feet wide, and 100 feet to the ceil- ing. The entire room, sides, roof, floor, and all, is composed of pure Carrara marble. Well may the Dutch be proud of this, their greatest work of art, for there is nothing superior to it in all Eu- rope. The cholera has been very fatal of late in Bel- gium and Holland, and has carried off hundreds and thousands of all classes. To a Louisianian, Holland is an exceedingly in- teresting country. Here you find a people, who for centuries have been fighting great battles against their greatest enemy, the sea. They have often suffered very much, occasionally whole vil- lages being swept away. Still they have not been OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUKOPE. 125 discouraged, but have rallied under the severest misfortunes — built their levees higher, and given them more base, and now rest secure from the waves of the " stormy sea." Year after year they taxed themselves, and built levee after levee, until at last they have triumphed. The levees are under the entire control of the General Government. A corps of engineers are kept always engaged in watching and repairing them. By this means Hol- land is to-day one of the most prosperous and happy countries in Europe. We have only the Mississippi to levee. This can be done effectually. In Holland they have fought and conquered the Rhine and the Ocean. We should then take courage in Louisiana — change our entire levee system — place it under the control of the State, and make it the duty of the Commis- sioner of Public "Works to take charge of all levees, from the Balize to the Arkansas line. Give them full power to construct, rebuild, and repair all levees at the expense of the general levee fund, and then we will have no more overflows. Good-bye. I leave to-day for Berlin. Yours, very truly, H. W. A. 126 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER; LETTER NO. XIX. Berlin, Hotel du Nokd, Sept. 11, 1859. Editors Advocate : This is a great city, full of works of art, men of science, and regal splendor. It is one of the largest capitals of Europe, having a population of nearly half a million of inhabitants. The great number of soldiers here gives to Berlin almost the air of a camp. Every morning at 11 o'clock they " mount guard " in true military style. A splendid band of music plays, and 10,000 troops go through their military evolutions, and defile be- fore you to their several stations in and around the city. The river Spree, a small and sluggish stream about the size of the Tickfaw, runs through the city, and communicates with the Oder and the Baltic on the one hand, and empties into the Elbe on the other. The situation of Berlin is low and sandy, in the midst of a dreary plain. It is sur- prising that the foundation of a town should have been laid on so uninteresting a spot ; but it is far OE, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 127 more surprising that it should have grown up, not- withstanding, into the nourishing capital of a great empire. Owing to the want of stone in the neigh- borhood, the largest portion of the buildings are made of brick and plaster. This gives to the city a sameness, as if the great Frederick had given out the building of the entire city by contract. Edinburgh, or London, or Paris, all have many evi- dences of antiquity, but Berlin looks as if every house in it was plastered the same day. The good people of Boston and Yicksburg complain bitterly of their high hills and uneven streets. In this city they complain equally as much of their dead- level location and stagnant gutters. The Friedrich- strasse is two miles long. There is not a foot of descent from one end of it to the other. Notwithstanding the disadvantages of situation, Berlin is certainly one of the finest cities in Eu- rope. Few great cities can show so much archi- tectural splendor as is seen in the colossal Palace, the beautiful and classic Museum, the chaste Guard House, the great Opera, and the University oppo- site. These, with the Arsenal, the finest specimen of " warlike architecture " in the world, and the University, are all within a stone's throw of each other, and can be seen alternately by turning on one's heel. Most of these elegant buildings are situated on the great street called Unter der Linden, (under the linden tree,) from a double row of linden or lime trees, which form a shady walk in the cen- tre, while on each side is a carriage-way. It is the 128 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; principal and most magnificent street in the city. The view along it is terminated by the Branden- burg gate, a splendid affair, and one of the great ornaments of the city. It was built in 1792, and is an imitation of the Propylseum at Athens, but on a larger scale. The car of victory on the top of the gate, was carried to Rome as a trophy by Napoleon, but it was recovered by the Prussians after the battle of "Waterloo, who bestowed upon the goddess (the figure) after her return, the eagle and iron cross which she now bears. The Prussians not only appear to be great art- ists, but are exceedingly patriotic, for they have al- . most crowded their streets and public squares with statues and monuments to their great benefactors. To their King Frederick the Great, they have re- cently erected the most magnificent statue, or rather group of statues, I ever beheld. It is by their great Bculptor Pauch, (pronounced Rowk,) and is the grandest monument in the wide world. It is built in the centre of the Unter der Linden, opposite the University, and consists of a granite pedestal 25 feet high, presenting on each face bronze groups of the great commanders of the Seven Years' War, on foot and horseback, all the size of life, and all por- traits in high relief. Among the distinguished persons represented here are the Duke of Brunswick, afterwards the commander of the allies against Dumouriez, Prince Heinrich of Prussia, Generals Seydlitz and Zeithen, Counts von Pinckenstein and von Carmer, Graun, OK, SIX, MONTHS IN EUKOPE. 129 Lessing, and Kant — the whole number on the four faces of the pedestal being 31. To reproduce these correctly, the best authorities have been con- sulted, and authentic drawings, busts, and medals of the period have been strictly followed. This, as a matter of course, has involved an immense amount of labor, but the value of the monument as an historical work, is thereby increased ten- fold. The costumes and arms of the time are given with equal accuracy. Above, there is at each cor- ner a female figure, representing the four cardi- nal virtues — Prudence, Justice, Fortitude, and Temperance. Between them are bas-reliefs em- blematic of different periods of the monarch's life. In the first is represented his birth and education, civil and military. In the second relief, a muse is teaching the young prince history ; pointing out to him the names of the commanders he most ad- mired — Alexander, Caesar, and Gustavus Adolphus. In the third, Minerva is giving him a sword. In the fourth, the great king is represented after his defeat at Kolin, sitting down, and looking earnestly on the ground, on which he is drawing the lines of a plan with his cane. This subject is familiar to every German. In the back-ground of the tablet are allegorical figures of Triumph and Victory, intimating that the defeat was retrieved. The other reliefs repre- sent him as encouraging the arts of peace. Now in the hut of a Silesian weaver — now playing on his flute, or walking in the gardens of " Sans- 6* 130 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; souci." From the centre of this group rises th& monarch himself, seated on horseback. This statue is 17 feet 3 inches high, and although colossal, it is in such beautiful proportion that its great size is toned down in a wonderful manner. The horse is poised in a trotting position, with two feet raised. The long walking- cane, the three-cornered hat, the pistol holsters, are all copied minutely from the relics of the great king. I have thus been perhaps tedious in the description of this grand monument. It is the greatest triumph of the greatest artist since the days of Michael Angelo, and is well worth a trip across the Atlantic to see it. Rauch is but recently dead. He has also left behind him many other statues which have immor- talized his name. Among them are his " King Frederick and Louisa," in marble, at Charlotten- burg. The museum at Berlin is, however, the " great lion " of the city. It has just been entirely remodelled. A long row of pillars now fronts the Unter den Linden, and a magnificent new building has been added to the main edifice. The great Cornelius, the best fresco painter now living, has for years given his whole time and talents towards ornamenting this splendid structure. The walls of the colonnade, and the ceilings of the interior, are covered with classic works, by the best living paint- ers. The museum is the pride of the city, and is under the direction of the s-overnment. It con- tains on the ground floor the Antiquarium ; on the second the Sculpture Gallery, and on the third floor OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 131 the Picture Gallery. Among the antique statuary is " The Boy Praying," found in the bed of the Tiber. It is of bronze, and is one of the very best specimens of antique art. The picture gallery is divided into numerous small compartments, with appropriate labels over each apartment, describing the pictures, and giving the names of their authors. The Berlin Gallery does not rank so high as those of Dresden and Munich, in works of first-rate ex- cellence, but it has good specimens of a great num- ber of masters of the early German and Italian schools. Raphael has one or two paintings here, after his best style. Titian and Andrea del Sarto are also fully represented. Murillo, and Carlo Dolce, and Guido are also to be seen on the can- vased walls ; but the pride of this gallery is the large number of German and Dutch paintings of the highest order. Lucas Cranach and Hans Hol- bein may be called the fathers of the German school. The}- lived in the days of Martin Luther. Many of their paintings are now as fresh as if the colors were mixed on yesterday. Lessing, the great German artist, is here seen in all his glory. His great painting of the "Burn- ing of John Huss," is now in the Dusseldorf Gal- lery at iSTew York. Here is his " Trial of Huss," and many other pieces which have given him im- mortality. In this gallery I noticed a fine picture by an artist not known to fame, but in portrait painting the best I ever saw. It is Balthazar Den- ner, a Dutch painter. It is the portrait of an old 132 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER man, and cost $10,000. I have never seen such details in any picture. The color of the eyes is perfect ; every freckle, every crow's-foot and wrin- kle are as well defined as if the living man was before you. Here also I noticed a painting of great merit by Yon Laeck, another Dutchman. It seemed to attract great attention, and I, in com- pany with some English ladies, walked up to look at it. It was " Venus smacking the back of Cu- pid." The goddess seemed angry, and was laying on with might and main, while the little rascal was red with spanking, and seemed to be crying at the top of his lungs. The University of Berlin stands deservedly among the very first of Europe. As a medical school it ranks the first in Germany, and has 1,500 students. Here are students from all parts of the world, many from the United States. Jena, and Bonn, and Heidelburg are all fine institutions, but Berlin possesses many advantages over all, Vienna not excepted. The Arsenal, (Zenghaus,) a building of faultless architecture, was erected in 1695. Above the win- dows, round the inner court, are 22 masks, admira- bly carved in stone, by Schliiter, representing the human face in the agonies of death. On the ground floor are cannon and artillery of various kinds. On the second floor are ranged 100,000 stand of arms. Here are also a great many cu- rious old guns of every age, used when gunpowder was first invented. Here also are seven bunches of OR, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 133 keys, of various fortresses, taken by Prussian arms. Also 1,000 stand of colors, mostly taken from the French, at Paris, in 1815. Berlin has not many very fine churches ; the most remarkable is the Cathedral, (Dom.) It is the burial place of the royal family, and contains the remains of many sovereigns in gilded coffins. I travelled all night from Amsterdam to this city, expressly to hear the " Berlin Choir " sing the Mendelssohn psalms, unaccompanied by instru- mental music. I arrived in time Sunday morning, and repaired to the cathedral, where I was well re- paid for my long night's journey. The sermon was preached in German, (all of which was Dutch to me,) but the music was most admirable. It was far superior to any chorus at any opera I had ever heard. The manufactories of Berlin are very great. Iron, copper, and bronze are manufactured here into a thousand different articles. China-ware, glass, jewelry, musical instruments, mathematical and astronomical instruments, boots, shoes, and woollen goods — all these articles are manufactured in a very superior manner, and give employment to thousands of operatives. Berlin also excels in works of " high art " — painting and statuary. Here are found the studios of the great German living masters. Immediately beyond the Brandenburg gate commences the Park, (Thiergartcn.) It is a lovely spot, containing 500 acres of land, and is shaded 134: TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; by tall trees, interspersed with groups of shrub- bery. Here and there are open spaces for ponds and statuary, and elegant romantic coffee-houses. The Prussians have made this an earthly paradise. Here are beautiful walks and delightful drives, and " rotten rows," with statues and fountains and flowers interspersed. Potsdam is the Versailles of Berlin. It is about 25 miles distant by rail, and is a small place, being only remarkable for its palaces, and the gardens of " Sans-souci." These grounds are very elegantly laid off, and extend for many miles in every direc- tion. The Palace of Charlottenburg, in these gar- dens, is a most remarkable pile of marble and gilt. It was built by Frederick the Great, after his long wars were over, in order to show the world that he was not entirely broke. Money has been squan- dered here in every conceivable manner. Such a profusion of mosaics, tortoise-shell, alabaster, mala- chite, amber, and lapis lazuli was never seen be- fore. The visitor is required to take off his shoes, and put .on felt slippers, in walking through the apartments of this palace, for the floors are all of the finest mosaics. The old king still lives at " Sans-souci." Poor old man ! He is in a dying condition. His disease is softening of the brain, brought on by drinking too much Cliquot champagne ! for he was no one- oottle man, but a good honest drinker ! His palace, although surrounded by all the trappings of roy- altv, looks cold and dreary. The solitary sentinel OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUKOPE. 135 paces slowlyin front of the door, while none enter except his physician or the next of kin. Unfaith- ful subjects pass by, and crack their jokes about old Cliquot, as they call him, with (I think) great irreverence ! " "Weary lies the head that wears a crown." Yes, this poor old king seems to have a hard time of it, without even the sympathy of his people, for he never had their affections. In the Garrison Kirche (Church of the Garri- son) are the remains of the great Frederick, in a plain zinc coffin. It looks like a box of sheet-iron, and in no manner like the sarcophagus of a great monarch. Over this coffin are suspended the eagles and standards taken from Napoleon's armies at Leipsic and "Waterloo, in order to appease the manes of Frederick, whose sword had been taken from his tomb by Napoleon, and carried off to Paris ; a fitting atonement to the shade of the old hero for this paltry theft. I noticed on the terraced gardens of " Sans-souci," our ordinary pumpkin planted, and the vines trailed along, with the ripe red and yellow fruit hanging very artistically down the terraces, making our democratic vegetable not only useful but ornamental. " A dainty dish to set before a king." I called on our Minister, Gov. "Wright, who was very kind and attentive to me. Our talented young friend, Ed. Butler, of Iberville, is attached to this legation. He gave me a real Louisianian welcome, and made my stay in Berlin very agree- 136 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; able. We went to the grand opera together, and witnessed the performance of an extraordinary bal- let, which is now all the rage in Berlin. Our young friend stands very high here in diplomatic circles, and is destined to be a prominent man in our State. Success to him, for he is as clever a fellow as ever lived. For many years Berlin has been the residence of many men of great scientific attainments. Among them were the celebrated Alexander von Humboldt, a name known in every land, and hon- ored by all. Kings and emperors were proud to have him as an associate, while this truly great man looked with contempt on all the honors they showered upon him. He died very recently, and lies buried a few miles from the city. His grave is visited by all lovers of science, and his memory is revered by prince and people. Adieu. I leave to-morrow for Dresden. Yery truly yours, H. W. A. OE, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 137 LETTER NO. XX. Viotoeia Hotel, Dresden, Saxony, Sept. 15, 1859. Editors Advocate : I readied this old but very interesting city in six hours from Berlin — distance 116 miles— fare 110 silbergroshens, or about $3. Saxony has for many years played a very important part in the history of the world, and its capital was often the scene of terrible conflicts of contending armies. During the Seven Years' War, Frederick the Great besieged this city, and in later times Napoleon I. came to its relief, while surrounded by the troops of the Allies. It was on this memorable occasion that Gen. Moreau was killed. This great general, who had immortalized himself at the battle of Ilohen- linden, was now with the allied sovereigns. The beleaguering forces extended all round the old town, from the barrier of Pirna on the Elbe, to the marsh of Preisnitz. Near the small village of Raeknitz stood a group of mounted officers, on the 138 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER 27th clay of August, 1813. At the command of Napoleon they were fired on, he saying " that he suspected there were some small generals among them." The first shot took effect — Moreau fell. Both legs, which were cut off by a cannon ball, are buried here. A large square block of granite, surmounted by a helmet, has been erected on the spot where he received his mortal wound, with this inscription : " Moreau, the hero, fell here, by the side of Alexander, 27th August, 1813." His body was conveyed to St. Petersburg, and buried there in great state. The distance of the shot was so great, that Napoleon had it accurately measured, and found it to be exactly 2,000 yards — about a mile and a quarter. Napoleon III. did much better shooting than that at the battle of Solferino. At three miles he did good work with his rifle cannon. Dresden is situated on the Elbe, a clear and ro- mantic stream, about two or three hundred yards wide. It has been called the " German Florence." Its delightful situation, its fine collection of rare and elegant paintings, its statuary and its jewels, I should think would make it compare favorably with the great Italian city. I find many Ameri- cans here, with their children at school. They tell me that in music and the modern languages, Dres- den has great advantages. For ages, the china of this place has been in much demand. Its porce- lain manufactories are still carried on to a great extent, while the painting on china seems to have taken rank among the lovers of " high art." OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 189 But the pride of Dresden is her gallery of paintings. This alone brings thousands to Saxony, from all parts of the world. "When the great Na- poleon robbed all Europe of its paintings, not even excepting the Vatican at Rome, he spared this gal- lery, and seemed to take a great delight in visiting- it. Frederick, while bombarding the city, ordered his engineers to save the gallery of paintings. He battered down walls, and churches, and palaces. He entered Dresden as a conqueror, but asked per- mission of the captive monarch to visit this gallery as a stranger, so much did he esteem these paint- ings. Among the 2,000 paintings exhibited here, I have not room to describe but two or three. The first in the gallery, and perhaps the best painting out of Italy, is the celebrated " Madonna di San Sisto," by Raphael. The sainted Pope Sixtus, from whom the picture is named, is represented on the one side, gazing with pious and trembling awe upon the figure of the Virgin, who is soaring up to heaven, in all the majesty with which the Ro- man Catholic religion has surrounded her, bearing in her arms the divine Child. The head of the Vir- gin is perhaps nearer the perfection of female beau- ty than any thing on canvas. It is truly impress- ive and beautiful. Opposite to the pojDe kneels St. Barbara ; her youthful beauty and fervor con- trast most admirably with his aged form. Below this group are two angelic children, their counte- nances beaming with intelligence and pure inno- cence. With e} r es upturned to the central figures 140 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; of the picture, they are the happiest effort of the great artist. This picture was purchased from a convent at Piacenza for 17,000 ducats, about $40,000, and is now considered more valuable than all the jewels in " the crown the Bourbon lost." An ele- gant apartment is appropriated to this great paint- ing, and there you may recline on the sofas from morning till night, with nothing to interrupt the pleasant reverie produced by a close study of this great work of art. There is, perhaps, no painting more generally copied, and more numerously dis- tributed through the Christian world. In the world of art it ranks only second to " The Transfigura- tion," in the Yatican at Rome. The next great painting is the " La ISTotte," by Correggio. This is considered the master-piece of this great Italian, and all the powers of his art are here united to make it a perfect work. It is a repre- sentation of the Madonna and Child, and is called " Kotte," (night,) because it represents the Mother and Child in a dark room, and the only light pro- duced is from the supernatural halo emitted from the infant Saviour. The effect is truly astonishing. The Virgin mother, who bends over the Infant, is undazzled, while another female draws back, veil- ing her eyes with her hand, as if unable to endure the radiance. Far off through the gloom of night we see the morning just breaking along the eastern horizon, emblem of the " Day-spring from on high." Correggio did not, like Rembrandt, in these effects attempt to give the color of lamp-light. The emit- OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 141 ting the light from the child, though a supernatu- ral illusion, is eminently successful ; it looks neither forced nor improbable. In the adaptation of light and shadow to the illusion of the subject, it is cer- tainly one of the greatest triumphs of modern art. These two are the gems of the gallery. There are many other paintings of rare excellence, by the old masters. Rubens and Titian, Dosso Dossi and Guido, Paul Veronese and Andrea del Sarto, Girard Dow and Albert Durer, Holbein, Paul Potter, Rembrandt, Van Dyck, and Teniers, are all here represented by their master-pieces of the " divine art," The next great curiosity in Dresden is the " Green Vault," in which are large suites of rooms filled with curiosities, articles of virtu, gold and silver plate, and precious jewels. For many years the kings of Saxony drew immense revenues from their silver mines at Freiburg, and they all seem to have had a strange fancy in spending their money in the purchase of what might very prop- erly be called an immense curiosity-shop. I saw many rare jewels in this vault, of surpassing beau- ty : the diamond decorations of the elector, con- sisting of buttons, collar, sword-hilt and scabbard, all of diamonds of great size. The three brilliants in the epaulette weigh 50 carats each. But the most remarkable stone of all is the green brilliant, weighing 160 grains ! considered the finest of the kind in the world. These treasures are contained in eight apartments, each exceeding the previous 142 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; one in the splendor and richness of its contents. In one of these apartments I noticed " The Fall of Lucifer and the Wicked Angels," cut out of one block or piece of ivory, containing 142 figures ; two goblets composed entirely of cut gems, valued each at 30,000 francs ; a chimney-piece of Dresden china, sparkling with precious stones ; " The Court of the Great Mogul," represented in pure gold, val- ued at $60,000. These are a few of the rare and costly trinkets seen here. The armory is in the " Zwinger," a large public building, and contains the most perfect specimens of armor now in existence ; far superior to the Tower at London. Here you pass, for 100 yards or more, through long files of mounted knights, with steel-clad armor, their visors down, and lances in rest, seemingly ready for the charge. Two of these tilting suits of armor deserve particular no- tice. They each weigh 200 pounds, and are fin- ished in the most classic and elaborate style. The surface is covered with reliefs, representing the la- bors of Hercules, the Golden Fleece, and Theseus and Ariadne, all evincing the hand of the master artist. In another apartment I saw the little cocked hat of Peter the Great, and the boots which Napoleon wore at the battle of Dresden. Here also is a specimen of pure silver, taken from the Freiburg mines ; it is large enongh and has been used for the elector's dinner-table. Here also is a great curiosity, the only one I ever saw of the kind — it is a long tube, formed by lightning falling on OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUEOPE. 143 a bed of sand, which has been partially melted by the electric fluid, wherever it took its course, and thus has made " a hollow rope of sand." Dresden has an old appearance. It is a very quiet place. The sound of the hammer or the buzz of the machine-shop is never heard. Its prin- cipal manufactories seem to be in porcelain and musical instruments. The arts flourish here, par- ticularly the art of painting on china, in which they greatly excel all other places. There are but few tine churches. The court church, between the bridge and the palace, is not by any means an im- posing building. It is, however, decorated in all the gorgeous drapery of the Italian style. The royal family profess the Catholic religion, though their subjects are Lutherans. Augustus II., as the price of obtaining the crown of Poland, ab- jured the Protestant religion, of which his ances- tors had been the earliest and most faithful sup- porters. The two religions seem to be getting along very well together. There does not appear to be any jealousy between them. The large mass of the German people are free-thinkers. They read the ponderous works of Immanuel Kant, and drink oceans of lager-bier. Thus fortified, they are ready to dispute with St. Peter himself, or chop logic with John Bunyan, John Calvin, John "Wes- ley, or John Hughes. Few European capitals contain a greater num- ber of objects calculated to gratify the curiosity of the intelligent traveller. It is the residence of 144 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER J many men of learning and talent, who contribute much to make society agreeable. The opera is good, and music is much cultivated. The climate is generally mild and agreeable, while food and lodging are not dear. It is now much resorted to by English and Americans, for education and econ- omy. It has neither fine streets nor imposing pub- lic buildings, but its situation is pretty, and its en- virons really delightful. The terrace of Bruhl runs along the left bank of the Elbe, and forms a delight- ful promenade. On this terrace are two very ele- gant cafes, the " Keale " and the " Belvidere," where the elite of Dresden are seen every evening. Besides these, there are numerous fine " lager- bier " saloons. The beer here is very good. I much prefer it to the cheap, wines of the country. Last night I went to the opera, and heard the comic piece of " Herr Pantalon," or " Good-night, Mr. Simmons." It was well given by the best art- ists of the city. "Whether this opera was written in consequence of the retiring from politics of our old friend from Iberville, I know not ; but the music •was good, and the principal male singer reminded me very much of the broad proportions of my old Democratic friend, who always carried much weight in our legislative deliberations. We get nothing from Dresden but china-ware and musical instruments. China-ware, or porce- lain, was originally brought from the country after which it is named, and was first made in Europe at this place in 1710, by one Botticher, an alche- OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 145 mist, who, after wasting a great deal of the gold of his patron, Augustus I. of Poland, in his search for the philosopher's stone, stumbled by accident on a more sure method of producing the precious metals, by the discovery of an art which has served to enrich his countrymen. The Dresden china is not so valuable as the Sevres. It is, however, more durable, and much better adapted to practical use. It graces the tables of all the crowned heads of Europe, and is much sought after by the wealthy aristocracy of every land. Adieu. I leave for Vienna to-morrow, in which great city I expect to be " a quiet looker-on " for a few days. Truly your friend, H. W. A. 7 146 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER J LETTER NO. XXI. Hotel l'Agneau d'Oe, Vienna, Acstbia, Sept. 18, 1859. Editors Advocate : I have the pleasure to write you to-day from the banks of the " dark-rolling Danube." From Dres- den to this city is 18 hours by rail. The road passes through Saxon-Switzerland, Bohemia, and Moravia. At Prague I took breakfast, and spent an hour in examining the Bohemian ware so much prized in our country, and in fact all over the world where good taste is cultivated and good wine drank. It is mostly manufactured in the city of Prague, this being the principal employment of its inhabit- ants. In the manufactories here I saw a beautiful article, the " wine cooler," made of frosted glass. It is really very beautiful, and will be a great or- nament to the dining-table. Prague is a large city, with a population of 150,000 inhabitants, and is beautifully situated on the banks of the Moldau, in a lovely valley, sur- OK, SIX MONTHS IN ETTKOPE. 147 rounded by romantic hills. Here was fought, once upon a time, a certain great battle, many years ago, with the music of which our school-misses are pretty well acquainted, for I verily believe that the " Battle of Prague" and " Days of Absence" were the first two pieces of music I ever heard on the piano. Bohemia is a beautiful, undulating coun- try, and reminds me very much of the lands around Huntsville in North Alabama. Here the grasses, buckwheat, rye, and Indian corn nourish well, and yield large crops. Between Prague and Vienna are large pastures covered with thousands of sheep and cattle. The shepherds dress in a very romantic style, and are always seen in the midst of their flocks. I saw a great many Gypsies on the roadside in their rude tents, but did not see the " Bohemian Girl," of whom we all have heard so much in poetry and in song. These Gypsies form a large portion of the population of Bohemia. They are still nomadic, and wander about from place to place, mending a few tin-pans, stealing a little grain, and occasionally a child of some wealthy man, and then restoring it again for a large reward. The Austrian govern- ment seems to deal gently with these " children of the woods." They are permitted to roam wherever they please, and pitch their tents in field or forest. During the summer months they establish quite extensive villages on the banks of the Moldau, and live on fish and fowl. The women tell fortunes, and sing and dance ; while the men are idle, lazy 148 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; vagabonds, too proud to beg, but perfectly willing to steal. They keep up their nationality, and pride themselves on their ancestors, of whom they of course know but little. It is generally believed they came from Hindostan, but that they may all go to the d— 1, seems to be the pious wish of every civilized community, where the rights of " meum and tuum " are acknowledged. The men are gen- erally dark-featured and ungainly, but the women are often very pretty. With dark raven hair and coal-black eyes, they have often captivated men of rank and fortune, and even princes of royal blood. The romantic novelist and the crack- brained bard have ever had a penchant for the Gypsy. The Gypsy hat and the Gypsy dress have attracted the attention of the French milliners, while the " Queen of the Gypsies " has been the object of envy for many a bread-and-butter school- miss, who sighed for red scarfs, and bare feet, and running brooks. The Gypsy lives in story and in song, and has been the heroine of many a delight- ful opera. But here we are in Vienna. It is very pleas- antly situated on the Danube, and contains a popu- lation of 450,000 inhabitants. It looks more like Paris than any European city I have seen. The streets are wide and well paved, and the cabmen, with fine horses, drive up and down the thorough- fares like so many Jehus. The Danube is about the size of the Ohio, but much deeper. It is navi- gated by a great many steamers, making regu- OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 149 lar trips to various ports, but all of them small and very uncomfortable. Vienna is remarkable for its coffee-houses, for here it was that this great insti- tution began. The cafes are generally kept by the girls of Vienna. They are really beautiful, dress very neatly, and present you with a cup of coffee in a very smiling and graceful manner. These es- tablishments are fitted up in the most gorgeous and costly manner, and are the resort of the gay and fashionable of the city. I saw this evening in the Cafe Leopoldstadt a sight that is not usually seen in any other European city. A richly dressed Greek was sipping his coffee with a " turbaned Turk," while a Cossack and an Austrian soldier were smoking their meerschaums with one of the " tribe of Barabbas." The fare is very good in Vienna, but I do not like the Austrian wine. Tokay is drank very freely here. I cannot bear it. Its taste is too aromatic, and gives to the mind the unpleasant idea of its being drugged or medicated. It is made in Hun- gary out of the white grape, and is much esteemed by the bon vivants of Austria. To bring on the " board " a bottle of " Imperial Tokay," is consid- ered in Austria the highest mark of hospitality to the invited guest. In Vienna, the Croat and the Bohemian, the Moravian and the Dalmatian, the Hungarian and the Venetian, all meet, dressed in their peculiar costumes, which give to this city a very gay and picturesque appearance. The Turks visit this city 150 TEAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; in great numbers, and carry on an immense trade. This is in every respect the most oriental city in Christian Europe, except Moscow. Its trade with the Black Sea is very great, and its communication now with Constantinople and the East almost direct. I spent yesterday in the picture galleries and the arsenal. The paintings are very fine, particu- larly in the gallery of Prince Lichtenstein. It is astonishing what immense fortunes seem to have accumulated in the hands of private persons in this country. In the United States, when a man gets to be worth a million of dollars, we call him rich ; but here are numbers of the aristocracy of Austria worth from fifty to one hundred millions each. This magnificent gallery, the Lichtenstein, occupying an immense palace, is valued at several millions pounds sterling. In it are over two thou- sand paintings, many of them by the best masters, and all good specimens of this great art. I saw here the greatest profusion of Rubens and Yan Dyck, I have yet seen out of Belgium. Rubens is a coarse and florid painter. He portrays the pas- sions very well, and is great in crucifixions and death scenes, but will not compare with the great Italian masters in his madonnas or other pieces of repose and devotion. I have thus far seen but two or three of Raphael's pictures. They are really divine, and to my humble judgment far superior to any thing of Rubens at Antwerp or the Hague. In the Imperial Arsenal I saw the rifled cannon taken by the Austrians from the French at the bat- OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 151 tie of Solferino. It is a handsome brass gun, and from it the Austrians have already made a great many of a similar kind, and of a larger calibre. This French gun has six rifles, and did good execu- tion at a distance of three miles, point blank. The arsenal is filled with a vast amount of artillery of every size and every improvement, besides huge stacks of rifles and muskets, enough to " put the world in arms." Then the artillery wagons, and the baggage wagons, and the camp wagons, all filling an immense in closure around the arsenal, give to the place really a very warlike appearance. The wagons are made strong, but light, and their bodies consist of willow-osier work. I really envied the Austrian government the having so many of these light and handsome wagons, for I think I could put a few of them to far better uses than hauling gunpowder and cannon balls. I would put them to hauling sugar-cane, and fill their ample sides with swelling ears of Indian corn. " Peace has its conquests as well as war." I much prefer to fight crab-grass and cockle-burs, to mortal men of flesh and blood ; and such modest unpretending tools as the plough, the hoe, and the spade, are much more congenial to my nature than broadswords, smooth-bores, and grape-shot. Last night I went to the opera, and was much delighted at the fine music. The theatre or opera house is not so fine as that at Berlin ; the music is, however, delightful, perhaps the very best in the world. 152 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER J To-day being Sunday, I have spent in visiting the churches. I heard mass at St. Peter's. The singing was good, and the organ well played. At the church of the Capuchins lie the mortal remains of all of the House of Hapsburg. Here also re- poses Napoleon H, Duke of Reichstadt, by the side of his mother Maria Louisa. An arrangement is already made by which the body of the young Na- poleon will soon be taken to Paris, and placed by the side of his illustrious sire. The finest cathedral in Yienna, however, is St. Stephen's. It was be- gun as early as 1359, and completed in 1433. The steeple is 428 feet high, and the largest bell, cast out of 180 Turkish cannon, weighs 40,000 pounds ! In this church is buried the celebrated Prince Eugene, the great general and companion-in-arms of the Duke of Marlborough. In the church of St. Augustine is a magnificent monument to the memory of the Duchess Christiana, by Canova. It represents an open tomb, with several figures (in marble) as large as life, walking into it. It is a most beautiful conception, and well worthy of the great artist. In this same church, in the Loretto chapel, are all the hearts of the members of the Hapsburg family, preserved in silver urns. In this great capital there are hundreds of ele- gant palaces. Among them Prince Lichtenstein's, Prince Esterhazy's, Count Czernin's, and Count Schonborn's, are the principal. In all these pal- aces are fine galleries of paintings and statuary, costly jewels, and rare articles of virtu. The im- OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 153 perial cabinets of antiquities and of minerals are the very best in existence. Here are the finest specimens of the various minerals that the earth and sea contain, and most tastefully arranged, with appropriate descriptions. Among them I noticed a pearl as large as my fist. It looked as if all the rays of the rainbow had been concentred in it. Here are precious stones of every description in the larg- est profusion, from Golconda's precious gems " of purest ray serene," to Ural's malachite, all " dressed in living green." Here is seen gold from " Afric's burning sands," and white granite from " Green- land's icy mountains." To the student of nature, to the lover of the natural sciences, this imperial collection is a treat indeed. My companion, Dr. Smith, is a fine ge- ologist, and naturally a great lover of its kindred science mineralogy. He lingered for hours and hours examining these fine specimens of nature's wealth ; at last when compelled to leave, sighed to find that he could not stay longer. Around the city of Vienna are a great many places of amuse- ment and attraction. The Prater is an immense inclosure, (the Hyde Park of Vienna,) and is well studded with fine shady trees, and interspersed with groups of shrubbery and nice resting-places for the million. Here are thousands of tame deer for the Imperial tables. In the suburbs, only a mile or two, is the palace of Schonbrun, the summer resi- dence of the emperor. Napoleon lived here when he was master of Vienna, and here his son, the 7* 154 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER Duke of Eeichstadt, lived and died. The gardens attached to this palace are beautiful ; they extend up the sides of the mountain on which is built " the Gloriette," a beautiful, airy, open summer-house, on the top of which is a promenade, commanding a most magnificent view of Vienna and its environs. Near this " Gloriette " is Hitteldorf, the emperor's grounds, inclosed by a high stone wall, and con- taining 3,000 wild boars; and here is the place where the Austrian aristocracy assemble every fall to amuse themselves in that time-honored German sport of " hunting the boar." With us matters are reversed ; the hores hunt us, and generally succeed, much to our annoyance, in finding us ! I went this evening to hear the celebrated Straus, (pronounced S trows.) He plays with his band every Sunday evening at a fashionable establishment in the suburbs of Vienna. The music was truly mag- nificent, especially the waltzes and schottishes, for which Straus has so long been famous. There is a story here that Straus was once deep in love with a daughter of the archduke. His love was not ap- preciated or requited. On her wedding-day he was summoned to attend with his band, and play for the assembled guests, the bridal party. He did so, and composed expressly for the occasion a waltz which was played then, but has never been performed since. The blushing bride asked him to play one of his sweetest waltzes ; immediately he obeyed. She took the floor with her partner. The music was splendid — on went the waltz — the -OE, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 155 music was delicious — still the waltz went on — the music became ravishing — the waltz went on and on and on — sweeter and sweeter was the music — faster and faster became the waltz, until the beau- tiful bride dropped dead upon the floor, a victim to the intoxicating influence of Straus's music ! I do not know whether this story be true or not, but one thing I do know, that his waltzes are really charming ; and if any thing in the shape of music could kill a man or a woman, Straus's waltzes would. I wish I could write you more about this great city, for to me it is the most agreeable and interesting of all the cities I have visited. The women here, notwithstanding the pouting Austrian lip, are beautiful, and exceedingly agreeable and kind to strangers. As a " looker on in Vienna," I have learned much in this imperial city, and shall always congratulate myself in having visited it. At present, the great drawback to Austrian prosperity is the wretched condition of her cur- rency. This is 20 per cent, below par. She pays and feeds this day 600,000 soldiers ! No wonder the nation is impoverished and the treasury bank- rupt. Adieu, Yours truly, H. W. A. 156 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER J LETTEK NO. XXII. Hotel de La Ville, Trieste, Austria. Sept. 30, 1859. Editors Advocate: From Vienna to this place is 363 miles, time 24 hours, fare 34 florins, or $17. The railway passes over the Styrian Alps, or rather under them, for I counted 47 tunnels ! Our roads across the Alleghanies and the Cumberland Mountains are works of great skill, but this is the most her- culean enterprise I have ever seen. It is a double track the whole distance, and built in the most substantial manner. The scenery as you pass along through Styria is very fine, resembling in a very remarkable manner the most picturesque portions of Switzerland. I noticed that the farmers along the road in many places plant our Indian corn, and cut it while green as fodder for their horses and cattle. Indeed this seems to be their principal crop, and appears to have taken the place of the grasses in a great degree. Buckwheat also flour- OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 157 ishes well here, and is generally grown. The zigzag course of the cars as they wind around the moun- tains, gives the traveller a beautiful panorama of the country through which he passes. One station is on the very top of a high peak of the Alps ; you then descend gradually, and dive into the bowels of the earth for a mile or two, and come out within a few hundred yards from the place where you be- gan the descent. As we approached the Adriatic, we could see the far-off Carpathian Mountains on the confines of Hungary. For miles and miles be- fore you reach the Adriatic, the whole country is one wild, rugged, barren waste, with but a few scattering huts, and no evidences of civilization. This portion of Illyria is only occupied as sheep walks, for I did not see an inclosure of any kind, not even a garden spot. The whole country seems to be one huge, rugged, ill-shapen rock, covered with mosses and lichens which atford a scanty sub- sistence for sheep and goats. As the sun rose o'er this cold and bleak region, we came in sight of the calm and beautiful Gulf of Yenice. Trieste, the principal commercial city of Austria, (in fact the only seaport of any importance,) is sit- uated at the head of the Adriatic or Gulf of Venice, and lies in the shape of a crescent. It contains about 80,000 inhabitants, most of whom are Italians, Greeks, and Turks. But few white people live here. I took a commissionaire and went over the place, but I must say was a good deal disappointed. There are no works of art here, no statuary, no 158 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER J paintings ; commerce is king. This is the home of the celebrated Lloyd Steamers, which leave once a week for Constantinople, Alexandria, Smyrna, &c. Ships from all parts of the world are here, and on the quays are seen large quantities of cotton being reshipped to the various portions of the Austrian empire. I went to-day to the celebrated Tergesteum, (a species of cafe,) and spent an hour in the conver- sation rooms. While I was sipping my coffee, a turbaned Turk as black as the ace of spades, with a shirt nearly as black as his skin, came up and took a seat by me on the large sofa, crossed his legs, and began puffing away his horrid tobacco smoke under my very nose. I felt like " taking by the throat the circumcised dog," and smiting him until he should know how to treat a Christian gen- tleman, but recollected that I was in Austria. Here soldiers march and counter-march. The roll of the drum is heard nearly every hour of the day. At every corner of the street you see a man with a long moustache and a gleaming bayonet. I saw in the market this morning fine figs and olives, peaches, apples, and melons, with any quantity of macaroni, raw, baked, fried, and stewed ! Disgust- ing thing that macaroni ! your real Turk eats it with his fingers. On my way here from Vienna, I met with quite an adventure ; I got into a row with the conductor. I had bought a through ticket ; at the first sta- tion after leaving Vienna the conductor came along OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 159 and asked for my ticket, (billet ;) I gave it to him, and he passed on without clipping and returning it, as he should have done. At the next station he came along, and again asked for my ticket. I told him that he had it, and that it was a through ticket to Trieste. This he denied in a very emphatic manner. Here I of course was in a dilemma, quar- relling with an Austrian in very bad French ! In the height and fury of our quarrel, a stranger sit- ting by me, a well-dressed and very intelligent Austrian, came to my relief. He could speak a little English and a little French, enough to make himself understood. We made the conductor count over his through tickets, and among them mine was found. The poor fellow made many apologies for his mistake, and during the route frequently took occasion to show me more than ordinary attention. My new acquaintance (the Austrian gentleman) on hearing that I was an American, asked a thousand questions about our country, and expressed a great desire to visit a land where the iron heel of despot- ism could not oppress the poor. He resided in the town of Gratz at the foot of the Alps, and left us on arriving at that place. He shook me warmly by the hand and said, " Mynheer, adieu, I wish you une bonne voyage — I loves Amerique. I shall see him yet before I die — may God mit his blessings go mit you and your grande Republique." This is the feeling everywhere in Europe in regard to our country, particularly among the middle and work- ing classes. They all wish us God speed. Our 160 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER J only enemies, strange to say, are to be found at home, living under the same stars and stripes. Since writing the above I have had dinner — beef-steak bad — pomme de terre worse — wine — Cyprus wine — oh Lord ! it tastes more like squills or syrup of Ipecacuanha, than the juice of the grape. I drank a bottle of it — of course it made me sick. Took a sail-boat, and went a sailing on the Adriatic. Expected every moment to meet the Doge, but didn't do it. Passed a couple of Austrian regiments drilling on the pjlateau ; they looked very fine sol- diers, moved like clock-work. All did no good, however, at Magenta and Solferino : they have a plenty of bone and muscle, but lack the brain. Sailed down to Capo d'Istria, and saw the shores of Croatia ; tacked about for the light-house in the Gulf of Trieste, and there, from the top of said light-house, saw the monarch of day sink to his rest in the bosom of the tranquil Adriatic — a glorious sight and one that I shall never forget. Tours truly, H. W. A. OB, BIX MONTHS IN EUBOPE. 161 LETTEE NO. XXIII. Hotel de l'Europe, Venice, Italy, September 23, 1859. Editoks Advocate : " I stood in Venice on the bridge of sighs, A palace and a prison on each hand." On yesterday morning, at sunrise, I arrived in this city of palaces, " that spring from the sea." The first human being I saw was an Austrian sol- dier. There are now in Venitia 260,000 Austrian soldiers, and all seem ready to have another fight for the honor of the House of Hapsburg. The Ve- netians are very much dissatisfied with the treaty of Villa Franca, and are daily giving Austria much trouble. Last night as I was walking along the Piazza di San Marco, I heard the report of two guns. I went in the direction whence the crowd was rushing, and found two Italians lying dead, weltering in their own blood. They had attempted to take the muskets from the Austrian soldiers, while they were on guard. It is generally believed 162 TKAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; that before spring the Austrian soldiers will enter Milan. All classes here are down on Napoleon for not freeing them from Austrian tyranny. It seems to be a national idea. Even the Lazzaroni, who live by begging and stealing, are long and loud in their curses of Napoleon. Venice is a city sui generis. It has a population of 100,000 inhabitants. This is the only city in the world, I believe, in which there are no carriages or horses, cattle or asses. (Fortunate city that, in which there are no asses !) The city is divided by a grand canal, into which a thousand small canals lead, and is built on 72 islands. All the travel is done by gondolas. These are long, narrow boats, invariably painted black. They have movable covers, and generally carry four persons. As these dark-looking boats skim along the silent canals, they remind you more of hearses than any thing else. The gondolier is a hardy, dark-looking man, and handles his oar with great ease and dexterity. To while away the time, he generally sings some Italian sonnet, and thus makes your voyage very agreeable. Venice is rich in churches and private palaces. There are 30 cathedrals here, all possessing great interest to the traveller. But the pride of Venice is San Marco. This is the most remarkable build- ing in the world, for precious stones and rare mar- bles. The interior is literally one entire mosaic. There are no paintings in oil. The altar-piece is of solid gold, and thickly set with precious stones. OR, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 103 The front doors of the cathedral are of bronze, and were brought from Constantinople. On entering this church you are completely bewildered, in look- ing at the great profusion of porphyry, verde an- tique, alabaster, lapis lazuli, and every other kind and color of precious stones and marbles, from all parts of the world. When I first heard that beau- tiful song, "I dreamed that I dwelt in marble halls," I never expected to have it in my power to realize the poet's idea. San Marco is now the noblest specimen the world has ever produced of "marble halls," for it is so rich and splendid, that upon be- holding it, you would almost swear that Aladdin, with his powerful lamp, had been there. The square fronting the cathedral is called the Piazza di San Marco, and here are collected the fashion and elite of the city in the evening, to listen to the imperial band, to promenade, make love and drink coffee. I must confess that I do not think the Ve- netian ladies so " killing pretty." From Lord By- ron,- down to the lesser poets, all have gone quite crazy about the dark flowing tresses, large lan- guishing eyes, and sylph-like forms of the Vene- tian ladies. I saw none of these angelic beings ; those I saw were any thing but beautiful. They all look sad, sorrowful, and sulky ; half-starved, yellow-skinned, and bony. I saw them by day and also by night, when they looked no better. The gondoliers and beggars make up about one- 164: TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; half of the population of Venice. Wherever you go, on the street, in the palace, in the church, at the hotel, the eternal beggars are sure to find you. There are many very fine private palaces here, all of which are thrown open to the public, and for a small sum to the porter, you can go through their elegant chambers and fine galleries of paint- ings. In one of them to-day I saw the chef d'oeu- vre of the great Conova, his Ajax and Hector. These palaces are filled with an immense number of fine paintings by the old masters, and some of the very best statuary in Italy. The rooms are cased with variegated marble, the floors with mo- saics, and the ceilings covered with frescoes, mak- ing them the most elegant and luxurious chambers I ever saw. The Palazzo Grimian belongs to the Duchess de Berri, who spends her winters here, and gives most magnificent parties. Another pal- ace belongs to the celebrated danseuse Taglioni, who also spends her winters here, and entertains handsomely. All of these palaces are splendid in- side, and kept in very neat and elegant order, but show a dilapidated exterior. The marble has been eaten away by the " hungry tooth of time ; " the walls are blackened and always damp, while sea- weeds and barnacles cling to the very sills of the doors. The residences of Mrs. Adams and of Messrs. Andrews and Randolph of Iberville, are far more showy and much more comfortable than any pri- vate palace in Yienna. The Rialto is a marble OR, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 165 bridge across the Canalazzo, or grand canal, and has a span of 100 feet. It is very solid and com- pact, being entirely bnilt of pure marble. This is the place where Shylock and Antonio met once upon a time, and here the merchants of Venice did " mostly congregate." But, alas ! what a falling off is there. This bridge now, instead of being the popular resort for the wealthy merchants, is occu- pied by stalls for the sale of miserable cheap jew- elry and children's toys. The principal trade, however, on the Rialto, seems to be in onions and mushrooms. Here in the very centre of the bridge, are stacks of onions ; onions in baskets, onions on strings, onions in every conceivable shape and man- ner. The Yenetian ladies are said to be very fond of this esculent, and labor under the happy belief that the aroma of the onion is a most delicious and delicate perfume. The Palazzo Ducale is one of the most remarka- ble palaces in Yenice. It adjoins the San Marco, and was for many years the residence of the doges. It is filled with many fine paintings, many of them of gigantic size. Underneath this palace are the state-prisons. From the Ducal Palace is a narrow way that leads to the " Bridge of Sighs," or as the Italians call it, Ponte di Sospiri. It is a high, cov- ered, narrow stone bridge, that leads from the Hall of Justice to the prisons. The state prisoners were sent by a secret passage to the hall of justice. If condemned, they were sent across this fatal bridge to the dark, deep dungeons, " whence no unfortu- 166 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; nate traveller ever returned." When I stood upon this Bridge of Sighs, I thought of the thousands of unhappy wretches who had trodden these cold stones, on their wav to torture and to death. But the murderers and the murdered have long since appeared before a just and upright Judge; and many a cruel prince and wicked doge have been compelled to walk that eternal bridge of sighs, into far deeper and blacker dungeons than were ever seen in Venice. I have spent this day pretty much in my gon- dola, and have threaded every hole and corner in this singular city. There are 4,000 gondolas in Venice. You hire them generally by the hour. The usual price per hour is 1 zwanziger, or 14 cents. Venice is certainly a very bad place for a drunken man, for the deep salt water (20 feet deep) comes up to the very door-sill of every house, the tide rising here only about 3 feet. The city re- minds one of Cairo, (Illinois,) or Napoleon, (Arkan- sas,) or Lake Providence, (La.,) in time of a crevasse. If I were the father of a dozen or more children, I do not think I should settle in Venice, unless they were all web-footed. Ever since I have been here I have involunta- rily been on the look-out for old Shylock and An- tonio, for the Moor and his Lieutenant Cassio, for Pierre and Priuli. Alas ! they have all gone to their long homes. The gonfalons of Venice no longer wave from the Piazzo San Marco. Her winged lions crouch before the double eagle of her OK, SIX MONTHS IK EUROPE. 167 conqueror, "while the very palace of the doges has become a common barrack for Austrian soldiers. In going to the Cafe Florian to-day, I met a Shylock — a veritable Shylock. As he passed me with a bag of gold in his hand, he gave it a closer grip, and stared at me as if he could cut a pound of Christian flesh from next my heart, without even batting his eyes. Venice is perhaps more remarkable for its beautiful Piazzo San Marco, than any thing else. It is a large oblong area, 562 feet long by 232 wide, and is surrounded by elegant buildings on every side. In the Piazza is a lofty square tower or cam- panile, 316 feet high and 42 feet square. From the top of this tower the prospect is truly delight- ful. On one side you see the mouths of the Adige and the Po, and on the other the placid waters of the beautiful Adriatic. Venice has given the world some of the best painters. Here were born Titian and Tintoretto. This was the home of Paul Veronese, and the great Leonardo da Vinci. Venice has but little commerce. Its revenues are all absorbed by the Austrian rulers, to support their immense standing army. Occasionally an American ship comes here, loaded with cotton or tobacco. But the principal revenue brought to the city is by strangers. Many English and Ameri- cans spend their winters here, and thus distribute a good deal of money. Watches and jewelry of all kinds, particularly 168 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER; a very delicate species of gold chain, are manufac- tured here in large quantities. But one thing J was surprised to see, or rather not to see. There is not a Venetian Hind in all Venice ! To our very popular consul, Mr. Sarmiento, of Philadelphia, I am under many obligations. He showed me much attention, and contributed much to my enjoyment while in Venice. Yours truly, H. W. A. OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 169 LETTER NO. XXIV. Hotel de la Rose, Milan, Italy, Sept. 26. 1859. Editors Advocate : From Venice to Milan is 176 miles — fare by- rail 32 liras, or about $5 50. I, however, did not go on directly to Milan, but stopped at Padua, Ve- rona, and Solferino. Padua is an old, seedy place, with the grass growing in the middle of the streets. It has a few fine churches, and a university, which is still much patronized by Italian students. The public square or grand piazza is a very pretty place filled with statues. I noticed in one of the largest and finest churches of Padua, a large quantity of army stores — barrels of meal, and bread, and oats, all piled upon the beautiful tessellated marble floors ! What a desecration ! In this church is a painting by Paul Veronese, which would command almost any price in our country, but it hangs now on deserted walls, as the priest refuses to perform divine service in a church desecrated by a tyran- 8 170 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; nical soldiery. Padua is 23 miles by rail from Venice, and has a population of 50,000 inhabitants. It followed the fortunes of Venice, and is now a part of the Lombardo- Venetian kingdom. Its Palace of Justice contains an immense chamber, or hall, covered with many curious frescoes. I noticed in Giotto's chapel a most remarkable piece of art ; it is by the sculptor Agostino Fasolata, and is called " Lucifer and his companions cast out from Heaven." It is composed of 60 figures, all carved out of one block of Carrara marble. The Cafe Peddrochi is the finest building of the kind in Italy, and kept in a very elegant manner. After spending the day in Padua, I got a most excellent dinner at the Hotel de la Stella d'Or, and set out late in the evening for Verona. From Padua to Verona is 50 miles. Already the atmosphere told me that I was among the mountains, for the night became cool and pleasant. After a delightful night's rest, I took breakfast on melons and fruits, and began my daily labors. Verona is situated near the gorges of the Tyrol, and is surrounded by the fortresses of Peschiera, Mantua, and Legnago. It is inclosed by a series of turreted walls, and the cannon frown down upon you in every direction from rampart, bastion, and parapet. The Adige, a bold and muddy stream, divides Verona into almost equal parts. It is a rapid river, that rushes down from the Tyrolese Alps, and furnishes great water power to the man- ufacturers of silks, and woollens, and cottons. The OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 171 current is so rapid that the mills are all turned by breast-wheels simply placed in the water, and the machinery attached thereto. Yerona has a population of 4S,000 inhabitants, and contains the most perfect ancient amphitheatre in existence. It is in a perfect state of repair, and is almost nightly used as a theatre. It is 1,533 feet in circumference, and 100 feet high, and is filled with a regular succession of stone steps or seats. This immense amphitheatre will comfortably seat 30,000 persons at a time ! Here it was that gladi- ators fought to amuse the assembled mob of noble Komans, and it was here that many a primitive Christian was torn to pieces by wild beasts. Shakspeare lias located two of his best plays in Yerona — the two Gentlemen of Yerona, and Eomeo and Juliet. The tomb of Juliet is yet seen in the garden of the Orfanotroh'o. It is of red Yerona marble, and is much injured by visitors, who not only scratch their names all over it, but break off pieces and carry them away. Poor Juliet, she had a hard time of it — for death, not Eomeo, came and took her maiden heart. Yerona is said to be rich in ancient curiosities and literature. Here are the tombs of the Scaligers, a curious monu- ment of the middle ages. It is remarkable for its dye-works and silk manufactures, in which de- partments the Yeronese excel all other Italians. Many distinguished men were born here, among them Cornelius Nepos, Catullus, the elder Pliny, Paul Yeronese, and the Marquis Maffei. 172 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; From Verona to what they now call the frontier is a short distance, only 8 miles. Here is Pes- chiera, where the Mincio leaves the Lago di Garda, and is now the terminus of Austrian territory. Be- tween this place and the next Italian town, Desen- zano, was fought the great battle of Solferino. I stopped here two hours and examined the localities. It is the nicest place in the world for a fight, as our friend Sir Lucius O'Trigger would say. The village of Solferino is off the road about six miles, and is situated on a hill. Here the Austrians were intrenched, with their lines extending across the railroad. The whole country around is a level plain, and is one large mulberry orchard. In order to obstruct the French cavalry as much as possible, the Austrians cut down all the mulberry trees for miles, and dug ditches in every direction, but all this did no good ; the Zouaves and Turcos leaped ditches, mulberry trees, and every thing else, and bayoneted the Austrians at their very guns. At present there is but little or no sign of the great and bloody battle, except the numerous fresh-made graves. In one trench alone lie the bodies of 800 soldiers, and there they will lie, till Gabriel shall sound a far louder blast than ever was heard on the dreadful field of Solferino. "Within a few yards of each other are stationed the Austrian and Sardinian sentries, for this whole country is yet a military camp. Just as soon as you cross the Sardinian line, you see the differ- ence. In Austrian Italy all is silent, dark, and OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 173 dreary. You seldom, if ever, hear any conversation in the cars ; and when a man speaks, he always looks around to see who is present. But in Sar- dinia, every man and woman is discussing freely Italian politics. There is mirth and laughter, and even song, while everybody is hurrahing for Vic- tor Emanuel. While in the cars, I witnessed a very animated and rather acrimonious discussion between a lady from Milan and a gentleman from Venice. The subject was Garibaldi. The lady seemed devoted to him, and praised him above all others ; declared him to be her beau ideal of a hero and a brave man. The gentleman, by the way a very well-dressed, intelligent person, de- nounced him as a pitiful upstart — a miserable, rob- bing, fillibustering scoundrel, who had no home, but like an Arab was wandering: about, and selling himself to fight where there was no chance of being killed. Both parties became very much excited, and I looked every moment to see the lady draw her stiletto, and stab the traducer of Garibaldi to the heart, for I find that he is almost idolized here. Besides, the women of Italy are passionate ; and all carry a nice little stiletto, a perfect love of a thing, secreted in the ample folds of their dresses. No blood, however, was shed, for we were now ar- rived at Milan, and all hastened to the hotel, it being late at night. Milan is an immense city. It has nearly 200,000 inhabitants, and for ages has been the capital of Lombardy, and the centre of the fashion, 174 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; and intelligence, and wealth of Northern Italy. The climate here is much colder, and the people appear almost a different race of beings from the Venetians. They are line, stout, good-looking men, who stood up at Solferino like clever fellows, and gave the Austrians the very d — 1. Milan is at present entertaining the six deputies who came to Bee Victor Emanuel from the states of the Eo- magna. Last night the city was beautifully illu- minated, and the deputies made speeches from the balconies of the La Scala to the people. Every thing went off finely. Although there was a very large gathering, still there was no disturbance of any kind, or even unpleasant accident to mar the pleasures of the evening. The people of Lombardy sympathize very much with their brethren of Bo- logna and Ferrara, and the rest of the Papal states, and are determined to free them from their present tyranny. There are many fine works of art here, in paint- ing and statuary.. The modern living artists appear to excel, and are well patronized. In the Brera (the Gallery of Arts) I found a large number of very fine paintings, mostly however by living artists, who are to be seen here daily at work amid the throng of strangers who are crowding Milan at present. In the Refectory of the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie is the world-renowned painting of " The Last Supper," by Leonardo da Vinci. Al- though much injured by time, and more by the damp walls, still it is a magnificent work of genius, OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 175 from which copies are being taken continually. The original painting is a fresco, and covers the whole of one end of the Refectory. Yesterday was Sunday. I went to hear mass at the Duomo, the great cathedral, second only to St. Peter's at Eome. It is 500 feet long, 350 feet high, and 275 feet wide, all built of solid white marble, a most astonishing work of architectural art. The roof is supported by 60 immense pillars of marble, twelve feet in diameter. The entire cathedral is literally covered with statuary. It was illuminated last night, and as I came in from Lake Como, the cupola looked like an immense ball of fire suspended in the air. I took rail yesterday, and went out to Lake Como — one hour's ride — and there spent the day, having taken a steamer that makes the usual tour of the lake daily, returning to the town of Como in the evening, in time for the cars to Milan. This is a lovely lake : Bulwer, in his " Lady of Lyons," has not overdrawn the picture. Nature has been lavish in her works here, and what she has failed to do, art has supplied. The shores of Como do not pos- sess the rich cultivation of Zurich, nor the wild grandeur of Lucerne ; the water is not so blue as Leman, nor so deep and secluded as Loch Lomond, but the hundreds of beautiful villas and elegant palaces that spring from the very water's edge, the numerous fountains and fairy grottoes, the rich green of the olive and the mulberry, and above all, the delightful climate, and calm, smooth surface 176 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER ; of the water, " glassing softest skies," makes Lake Conio the most lovely spot on earth. The principal manufacture of Milan is silk. This is the great central depot for the silk market of Italy. For miles around the city, in fact, through the whole of Northern Italy, the mulberry abounds and is the main growth, on the leaves of which the silkworm is fed. There *is a great deal of style here. The streets are well paved, and the equi- pages gotten up with great taste. While here, I have visited the Opera, La Scala. It is the largest Opera House in the world, and can comfortably seat 6,000 persons. The opera given was Cleo- patra ; the ballet was magnificent. There were 500 ballet girls at one time on the stage, and such a standing on big toes, and sailing of" dry goods," and piroueting around generally, was never seen before. The dancers are young and pretty, and dress with great taste. Only imagine 500 beauti- ful fairy forms before you, cutting up all sorts of didos. It is enough to run a man perfectly crazy, and make him wish that he were another Briareus, with a hundred arms, to hug them all at once. I began this letter at Lake Como, and am now fin- ishing it on the battle-field of Magenta. I shall mail it at Turin, and sleep to-morrow night at .Genoa. Adieu, Very truly yours, H. W. A 0E, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 177 LETTEE NO. XXY. Genoa, Italy, Oct. 1, 1859. Editoes Advocate : Since I wrote you last I have visited Turin, Al- essandria, and Genoa. I found Turin quite a city, and most beautifully situated in a valley between high mountains. It has a population of 125,000 inhabitants, and is the capital of Piedmont, and of the now great kingdom of Sardinia. Yictor Emanuel resides here in great state, and seems to govern a prosperous and happy people. Of all the crowned heads of Europe, he and Napoleon are the only ones who have smelt " the villanous saltpetre," on the battle-field. The Sardinian king looks every inch a soldier, and is evidently no car- pet knight. The Royal Palace is a very fine building, ele- gantly furnished with all sorts of royal finery. In it are many fine paintings. In this palace is a full suite of rooms, now unoccupied, belonging to the sister of the king. She had married " a right 8* 178 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER : royal husband," in the person of a distinguished prince, and was most elegantly domiciliated in the palace. A few years ago her husband died, and the disconsolate widow married an humble colonel. Court etiquette could not brook this misalliance, and now, on the banks of Lake Como, the widow and the colonel are as happy as two turtle-doves., Turin has a most delightful climate. It lies be- tween the Alps and Apennines, on the banks of the Po. This river here is quite small at present, but rises to a great and fearful height in the spring, when the snows melt. Even here large levees have to be erected, to keep in the " swelling flood," and when they break a vast country overflows, carry- ing death and destruction through the land. The fruits here are very fine. The grapes and figs are sweeter than in any part of Italy. At the hotels they give you bread baked in a very singu- lar shape. Imagine a handful of pipe-stems about 18 inches long, baked brown, and placed by the side of your plate, and you can form some idea of the fashion of baking bread in Turin. The place has the air of a capital city ; is the centre of the military and civil power of the kingdom, and is blessed with beautiful fountains and wide streets. The second stories of all the houses project over the street, in such a manner as to make delightful walks and promenades, even in bad weather. I have seen only one other city in my travels, where these comfortable sidewalks are so well arranged, and that is Berne, the capital of Switzerland. OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUKOPE. 179 The inhabitants of Turin are principally en- gaged in the manufacture of silks. The surround- ing country produces rice and Indian corn in large quantities. Yictor Emanuel seems to be very popular here with all classes, and has in a large degree the af- fections of his people. For several years a strange quarrel has been going on between him and the pope. The court of Sardinia, at the suggestion of Count Cavour, the prime minister, has sold a very large property belonging to the church and the monasteries, and placed the proceeds in the treas- ury of the state. The church, of course, protested, and the pope was appealed to. The Holy Father ordered the sales to be cancelled and the property restored, but unfortunately Victor Emanuel is king in his own realm, and sets the decrees of the pope at defiance. It is said that a bull will soon be is- sued from " Imperial Rome." The political excitement here is very great. Count Cavour has resigned, and retired to the coun- try to live, for he boldly says that Piedmont is now nothing but a dependence to France. The Zouaves are still in Milan in large numbers, while the streets of Genoa are filled with soldiers. From one end of Piedmont to the other drums are beat- ing, bayonets are gleaming, and all seems ready for another conflict. From Turin to Genoa you go by railway ; dis- tance 103 miles ; fare 16 francs. On the route the most remarkable places are " the battle-field of 180 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER Marengo," and the fortress of Alessandria. This celebrated battle-field lies close to the village of Marengo, and is seen from the railroad. The vil- lage is insignificant in itself, but has given the name to one of " the bloodiest pictures in the book of time." It is an elevated plain on the banks of the Tanaro, and not far from Alessandria, where the Bormida joins the Tanaro, making quite a stream. Alessandria has for ages been a fortress that is deemed impregnable. It is considered the key to the whole of this country, and is kept in good repair and well garrisoned. It was to this place that poor old Melas, the Austrian general, rode in great haste to inform the authorities that he had gained the victory at Marengo. But most unfortunately for him, Desaix came up and rallied the French soldiers, when upon a second charge the tables were turned ; the Austrians were van- quished, and poor old Melas had to sue for peace, and take such terms as Napoleon saw proper to give. The country around here looks unhealthy. It is all subject to overflow, and breeds terrible fevers. Before reaching Genoa the face of the country, for many miles, assumes a rugged and broken appear- ance. The cork-tree here assumes its amplest pro- portions, and presents its bare and naked trunk to the curious gaze of every passer-by. This cork- tree is a species of glandiferous quercus, and re- sembles in a great degree our live-oak. It is an evergreen, and grows to a large size. Our pat- OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 181 ent office lias distributed large quantities of acorns through the country, and I do hope the tree may flourish in our land, as it would be very desirable to plant such a tree in our villages and court-yards, where everybody has an indefeasible right to tie everybody's horse to a shade-tree, and let every- body's aforesaid horse bite, "destroy, and com- pletely eat up the aforesaid shade-trees. Now the cork-tree will be the very thing, for the more you bite it the better it grows. It likes to be bit. You could not please it better. Genoa is a great city. It has improved very much since the days of Christopher Columbus, and now rivals Marseilles. It has a population of 150,000 inhabitants. The principal capital seems to be invested in shipping, for this is a great sea- port. There are also large manufactories here of silks and velvets ; of gold and silver filagree work ; of all kinds of jewelry, and quite an extensive trade carried on in paintings and statuary. The ladies of Genoa dress very beautifully ; they all wear a long white veil thrown over "their heads, which gives them a fairy-like appearance. I did not see a bonnet in all Genoa. The streets are very narrow ; in many parts of the city the smallest carriage cannot pass. Every thing is packed on mules. The city is called " Genoa Superba," on account of its numerous marble pal- aces. The two finest streets, the Kuovo and the Nuovissimo, are indeed magnificent specimens of Italian grandeur. The city is situated very much 182 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER I like Yicksburg, Mississippi, and is a good deal " up and down." I visited many of the private palaces, and found in them an immense number of paintings, but none of them very remarkable. The universal stone here is marble; marble pal- aces and marble cottages ; marble churches and marble stables ! The cathedrals and churches are among the most gorgeous in Europe. The St. Lorenzo is a magnificent pile, with columns in front taken at the capture of Almeria, and transported to this cathe- dral, as part of the spoils. The richest portion of the church is the chapel of St. John the Baptist, into which no female is permitted to enter, an ex- clusion imposed by Pope Innocent YIIL The Pa- lazzo Rossi blazes with every thing that elegant taste could suggest or money buy. It is one mass of fine paintings, rare statuary, and gold and silver vessels of every kind. The fruits here are delightful. All kinds in the greatest profusion ; oranges and bananas, figs and grapes, peaches and pears. Asses, huge leather-lunged fellows, are seen and heard at every corner of the street, while the mule- teer, with his long whip, is driving his mules, sin- gle file, along the narrow streets. The harbor is a most excellent one, and is filled with shipping from all parts of the world. I thought to myself, if old Christopher could only rise from his tomb some bright morning, and see our ship of war, the Wabash, (that now guards the OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUKOPE. 183 Mediterranean,) come into port, what would he say ! I think, after examining the noble ship for a while, he would ask to have one broadside fired, and then, amid the smoke " of ignited sulphur," he would take his departure, with feelings of unspeak- able pleasure and pride, that his own Western Con- tinent had sent to the old world such a noble spe- cimen of naval architecture, manned by such a crew of gallant seamen. Adieu. I shall write you from Pisa. Yours truly, H. W. A. 184 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER; LETTER NO. XXVI. Pisa, Italy, Oct. 3, 1859. Editors Advocate : I arrived at Leghorn yesterday morning, after a very disagreeable night at sea. As we left Genoa a storm came on, the thunders rolled, the lightnings flashed, and the winds blew. I wished myself back on land again, a thousand times, I as- sure you, for I became very sea-sick. At 7 o'clock in the morning we reached Leghorn, where a new trouble was awaiting me. It appears that there was some informality in my passport, and I, to- gether with another American, was detained on board the ship, and forbidden to land. I wrote to the American consul, who immediately sent me a permit from the local police, and I was permitted, after much trouble, to land in the one-liorse city of Leghorn. The American whom I have just alluded to, was a citizen of New York, so said his passport, signed by Lewis Cass, Secretary of State ; but strange to say, he could not speak one word of English ! He, it seems, was a native of Florence, OK, SIX MONTHS IN EUROPE. 185 and had fled many years ago, " for his country's good." Now the revolution had taken place — the Grand Duke had fled — the whole country had de- clared for Victor Emanuel, and he thought it a good opportunity to visit again his old home, and the friends of his youth. On his arrival in Leghorn he was met by many an old acquaintance, and such a shaking of hands and kissing (French fashion) I never did see. Leghorn is quite a city, having considerable manufactures in the way of straw hats and bonnets, silk and cotton goods. Here is also carried on quite a trade in amber, coral, mosaics, and cigars — the best cigars I have seen in Europe, for this is what is called a free port. It is the seaport for Tus- cany and the Papal States, and thus enjoys quite a fair business in the shipping line. The shops here are well filled with Turkish articles of merchandise, and all sorts of marble and alabaster carvings. There is a marble group here on the quay, repre- senting Cosimo surrounded by four black Turks kneeling and in chains, taken by him at the great battle of Lepanto. The group is by John of Bo- logna, and is an astonishing piece of sculpture, and attracts much attention. Leghorn has a population of 80,000 inhabitants. It has but few or no evidences of antiquity ; all the houses, streets, and monuments being of mod- ern date. Here the elite of Tuscany assemble during the summer months to enjoy the fine sea- bathing, and thus give it the air of a fashionable 186 TRAVELS OF A SUGAR PLANTER | city. In this city are 12,000 Jews ; they have a magnificent synagogue, said to be the finest in the world. From Leghorn to Pisa is only 12 miles. In company with a very. intelligent silk merchant of Lyons, I left for Pisa ; the road passes up the val- ley of the Arno, through a low, marshy country, which seems to be used only as pasture land. Cattle thrive well on these grounds : we passed immense herds of huge white bullocks, that seemed very fat. Poor old Pisa ! full of fleas and beggars. It has no commerce — no trade of any kind. The grass grows rank in all its streets, even up to the very door of her greatest curiosity, the " Leaning Tower." There is a population here of about 20,000 inhabitants, who seem to live, like some of the first families of Virginia, on monsieur ? " Much to my relief, my bloody-minded Frenchman took this "little walk" with the man of au- thority, but to my utter astonishment, on turning from the window, I found two " buttoned gentlemen," with long swords on, in my room. My landlord was with them, however. I told them, as we sometimes say in Louisiana, that they had better send two to hold the Frenchman — « >nc could hold me, for I wasn't spoiling for a fight ; that I had rather drink any time than shed blood. In a few moments the whole matter was explained and hushed up. I engaged a valet de place, and started out sight-seeing, visiting the great cathedral, the tomb of Marshal Saxe, (a noble and splendid work of art,) and the various factories where the Strasbourg pies — the pates — are made. All the while, however, I kept a good look-out for my fighting Frenchman. Being of a kind, and, I hope, an amiable disposition, I did not want to kill the man or anybody else ; then again, I didn't want him to kill me. The idea of being killed in a foreign country, where the English language is not spoken, and where the rights of burial are rather precarious, is somewhat revolting to a sensitive mind. However, the matter all blew over. I spent a very pleasant day in the great city of " sausages and lager bier," and, I must add, of " fighting Frenchmen ; " and in the evening took the huge omnibus, and passed through that long avenue of shady trees which leads from Stras- bourg to Kehl ; thence to Baden Baden, only a few miles, where I found my travelling companion, Dr. Smith, in the midst of a long and heated disputation with a Scotch- man. Speaking of spitting on people, &c, it is my duty, 242 APPENDIX. as a faithful chronicler of the acts and doings in this Eu- ropean tour, to state that my friend Ed. Johnson got out of a similar case much better than I did. He and Mrs. Johnson, Shelby and myself, were in a car to our- selves, going from Edinboro' to London. We had paid the conductor not to let any other passengers enter our car, as the weather was very hot ; and we were getting along very finely, when on a sudden the conductor presented himself at the window, out of which, at the same time, Johnson happened to spit. The man, of course, was spit upon. He said, in rather a dissatisfied manner, " You see you have spit upon me." Johnson ran his hand in his pocket, " he put in his thumb," and instead of " pulling out a plum," he pulled out a few shillings, and said to the con- ductor, " How much is it ? " The man said, " Any thing you please, sir." Johnson handed him a couple of shil- lings, and our conductor thanked and smiled, and bowed himself away. All of which, I think, was very hand- somely done. London. Before quitting London, I concluded that I would rise very early one morning, and drive down to see the Fish Market, and that celebrated place called " Billings- gate." I issued forth from my hotel (the Trafalgar) be- fore sunrise, and called the first cab or " Hansom," as they are called — a concern that goes on two wheels, with the driver behind outside, and the reins passing over your head. Well, into this Hansom I got, and started off" for Billingsgate. After driving several miles, my Jehu pulled up, and gave me the pleasing information that we were at APPENDIX. . 243 the Fish Market or Billingsgate, which is all the same. I got out and went the rounds ; saw the splendid salmon and the delicious sole, the blue fish and the rock ; saw boat- loads of lobsters, and oysters, and other shell-fish. Having spent an hour walking through the market, I went back to my Hansom, and I found that the carts of the fishmong- ers had completly surrounded my driver, and there he stood at bay ; the fishmongers and their wives heaping curses on his head, as a villanous prig, who had dared to bring his painted " go-cart " into the classic grounds of Billingsgate. The police interfered, and after some time spent in cursing, swearing, and d ing one another's eyes generally, (all right, for we arc in Billingsgate,) he suc- ceeded in extricating my driver, who, " with 'bated breath and whispering humbleness," begged me for God's sake never again to take him among " those heathen devils." I told him to drive on to " the Old Bailey." Arriving there, I spent a few moments in examining that ancient establishment, once redolent with crime and sharp practis- ing lawyers, but now converted into a prison-house for those convicted of capital offences. On leaving " the Old Bailey," we drove on towards the hotel. In passing up the Strand, I saw a gentleman walking very rapidly down the street, and immediately recognized him, I thought, as an English sugar-buyer or broker, who was in the habit of visiting West Baton Rouge, and buying sugars for the English market. I passed my arm over the reins and stopped the horse, telling my driver at the same time to hold on a while, till I could speak to a friend. Getting out of my Hansom, I hurried on in pursuit of my supposed acquaintance. I overtook him, and found him to be walking in a very gingerly manner, as if he had a little touch of the gout or stringhalt, and after looking 244 APPENDIX. at his profile some time, I was sure that I had my man ; so without further ceremony I gave him a hard slap on the shoulder, and cried out, " Old fellow, how are you ? " The gentleman turned upon me with an astonished look, and gave me a freezing stare. Before he could say a word, I remarked that I supposed he had forgotten me ; that my name was Capt. A. of West Baton Rouge, and that I had entertained him often at my house. The gen- tleman opened his eyes the wider, and said that he had no recollection of ever seeing me before. Now, the name of the sugar-buyer was Prescott. I could not at the time recollect his name, so I said to the gentleman, " You say you never saw me before. Were you never in West Baton Rouge ? Don't you know Dan Hickey, and haven't we all had many a frolic together at the Brusli Landing?" "No, sir," said he, very quietly, " I never was in West Baton Rouge or the Brusli Landing, and don't know Mr. Dan Hickey ! " Thinking that this gen- tleman might possibly be a brother of the sugar-buyer, I asked him his name. Said he, " Sir, my name is Pal- merston." "What! Lord Palmerston?" "Yes, the same." I raised my hat to his lordship, and apologized for annoying him. I told him I was a stranger, an Amer- ican, travelling for information and for pleasure, and had mistaken him for the person alluded to above. The premier smiled at my mistake, and gave me to understand that he was always glad to make the acquaintance of Americans. He asked me if I had yet visited the Houses of Parliament. I told him I had. He then insisted that whenever I visited them again, if I would only send him my card, he would issue a special permit for my admit- tance to hear the debates in the House of Commons, for APPENDIX. 24:5 all of which I thanked him, and we, that is, Lord Pal- merston and myself, parted, / hope, good friends. Magexta, Italy. A young gentleman, not by the name of " Guppy," but of Hall, a very intelligent lawyer of California, left Milan with me. We stopped at Magenta, only ten or twelve miles distant, where we spent the day looking at that dread battle-field, so recently drenched with human gore. As we g< >t out of the cars and were going into the depot, we were attacked by a large yellow dog. Both of us drew our sword-canes and determined to give the " ca- nine individual " a good dose of well-tempered steel. A gentleman, however, called the dog off, and as we. ap- proached, he said that the dog would not bite us : it was only a way he had of barking at all strangers. Said he, " That dog has a strange history." In the mean time the dog came forward, and seemed by his actions anxious to learn who we were. But to his history : he was the favorite and constant companion of Gen. Espinasse of the Zouaves, who was killed at this place in the recent great battle fought here. When he fell, his dog, true to his nature, stayed by his side. After the battle was over, the General was taken to a room in the depot. Here he died, and when he was buried, the faithful dog followed his master to his grave, and'there howled his mournful dirge. The dog went from the grave back to the room in which his master died, and has refused ever since to sleep anywhere else. Even now, as often as the cars stop, and passengers get out, he comes up and smells them, and with eager looks still hopes to find his devoted master. The brave 246 APPENDIX. dog bears evidence of the battle, for I noticed in one of his legs a musket-ball not yet extracted. "While in Ma- genta we had quite a time. In order to get to the hotel we had to go through a butcher's shop, and then a livery stable ; but when once in the upper story, we found a pleasant place, and had a most delightful breakfast of figs, melons, and grapes, with good country wine. Since the battle here, hundreds come to see the " foughten field," and carry away some relic, generally in the shape of Minie rifle-balls, or brass ornaments from Austrian hats. Al- ready even these have been exhausted, and now, as is the case at Waterloo, they are manufactured for the occasion, buried in the earth until they become rusty, and offered by importunate venders as bona-fide relics gathered from the very identical spot where McMahon charged the Aus- trians. II. W. A. ■■ » •> COST OF A TRIP TO EUROPE. Below will be found an accurate and detailed state- ment of the cost of a trip to Europe. I speak " from the card," for each and every one of these items was paid by me. From New Orleans to New York, $60 00 " New York to Liverpool, 125 00 " Liverpool to London, 6 00 " London to Dover 3 00 " Dover to Calais, 2 00 " Calais to Paris, 4 00 " Paris to Lyons, 7 50 Amount carried forward, .... $207 50 APPENDIX. 247 way of the llac-ue Amount brought forward '. $20*7 From Lyons to Geneva, Switzerland, .... 2 Geneva to Chamouni, Savoy, (diligence,) Chamouni to Martigny, (by mule,) and across the Alps, Martigny to Bouveret at Lake Geneva, Bouveret to Lake Ncuchatel, . Lake Neuchatcl to Interlaken and Brientz Brientz to Lucerne, (by mule,) Lucerne by rail to Berne, capital of Switzerland, Berne to Zurich, ..... Zurich to Basle, ..... Basle to Heidelberg, .... Heidelberg to Baden Baden, From Baden Baden to Frankfort-on-the-Main, Frankfort to Wiesbaden, Wiesbaden to Mayeuce, Mayence down the Rhine by boat — passing the vine- yards of Johannisberger, and Marcobruner, and Ilockheimcr — passing Coblentz and Bon to Cologne, (Prussia,) Cologne to Aix-la-Chapelle, through tunnel 6,000 feet in length, Aix to Brussels, Brussels to Antwerp, Belgium, Antwerp to Rotterdam, Rotterdam to Amsterdam, by Leyden, Amsterdam to Utrecht, Utrecht to Berlin, Prussia, Berlin to Leipsic, . Leipsic to Dresden, Dresden to Prague, Prague to Vienna, Vienna to Trieste, Trieste to Venice, by steamer, Venice, by Padua,Verona, and Solferino, to Milan, and 1 2 1 1 1 11 1 2 2 6 9 2 3 50 50 00 00 50 50 50 00 00 50 50 00 00 00 00 50 2 50 Milan, by Magenta and Turin, and Alessandria to Genoa, 5 Genoa to Leghorn, by steamer, .... 3 Amount carried forward, . . . $284 71 50 25 50 50 60 50 10 15 00 40 96 50 50 65 50 00 24:8 APPENDIX. Amount brought forward, . . . $284 71 From Leghorn to Florence, by Pisa, . . . . 1 00 " Florence to Civita Vecchia, back by rail, and then steamer, . . . . . . . 2 50 " Civita Vecchia to " Imperial Rome," ... 75 §298 96 Thus it will bo seen that the actual cost of travel from New Orleans to Rome is precisely $298 96. No more, no less, and af the same time passing through nearly the whole of Europe. The cost of returning to Paris by the Mediterranean to Marseilles, is much cheaper. From Rome to Marseilles, by steamer, " Marseilles to Paris, 72 francs, .... " Paris to Liverpool, by London, Passage from Liverpool to New York, " " New York to New Orleans, home again, $540 71 For a trip of three months — say 90 days — we will allow the traveller to spend $5 per day. This will cover all his expenses, wines and operas included, unless he should see proper to join the eager throng in the " Conversation Rooms " at Baden Baden, and try his luck at " Rouge et Noir." In that event, there is no telling " what is on the cards." For 90 days at $5 per day, . . . . 450 00 $990 71 . $25 00 . 17 25 . 14 50 125 00 . 60 00 A prudent traveller will not risk his money at cards in a strange land. It is bad enough at home. That being the case, no man needs more than $1,000 to take the ex- tensive trip marked out above. This takes you through the very heart of Europe, and in most of the extravagant capitals. In France and Germany and Austria the fare is good and cheap. In Italy you can live for almost noth- ing. In Florence I took my breakfast at the best cafe in the city, and it never exceeded 20 cents ! In a tour of three months you cannot spend any more money legiti- APPENDIX. 249 mately than the figures set down. Of course you can throw away just as much as you please. In passing through Geneva, you can step into a jeweller's and order diamond rings and brooches, and enamelled jewelled watches of the latest style ; you can fill your pockets in Florence and Eome with cameos and mosaics, and when you get back to Paris you can go on the Boulevards des Italiens, to the " emperor's tailors," and they will fill your trunk with magnificent clothes. You may give dinners at the " Trois Freres Provenceaux," and drive your " liveried establish- ment " in Hyde Park ; but when you return home, you will find that it will take " the big end " of a good-sized sugar crop to foot the bills. In taking this trip, no one will need more than one thousand dollars, unless he wishes to splurge : then my advice is, take all you can carry, for you will want every dollar in due course of time. H. W. A. 11 * UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. fj>/URi m u 5 90 OCT 91 FormL9 — 15m-10,'48 (B1039)444 - - travels of a L 006 013 610 8 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY AA 000 217 978 6 19 A42t nma ^MMfe