C\SJy ^"\^A\\aA/vu6 ^^Wo^VnWojx;^ GIFT OF w^ .^i W^i ORIGINS WILLIAMSTOWN BY ARTHUR LATHAM jPERRY, LL.D. PROFESSOR OF HISTORY AND POLITICAL ECONOMY IN WILLLA.MS COLLEGE, MEMBER OF THE MASSACHUSETTS HISTORICAL SOCIETY, AND PRESIDENT OF THE BERKSHIRE HISToKK AL AND SCIENTIFIC SOCIETY NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 1894 F COPYRIGHT, 1894, BY ARTHUR LATHAM PERRY. THE PERPETUAL MEMORY OF Colonel 13enjamin Simonlis antJ Captain i^efjcmia!) SmetJleg Unii! .11 THEM PROMIXKXT AMONG THE EARLIEST SOLDIERS ANr> SETTLERS IN WEST HOOSAC 1 lil OF THEM PATRIOT OFFICERS IN THE WA1{ OF THE KK VOLUTION AND (WHAT 16 MLCII LESS WORTH THE MENTION) BOTH OF THEM GREAT-GREAT-GRANDFATHERS OF MY CHILDREN .'^721 15 PREFACE. The first time I ever heard of Williamstown and Williams College was in the early autumn of 1843, a month or so after the Semi-cen- tennial of the College, which fell on the 16th of August of that year. Rev. Phineas Cooke, an alumnus of the College of 1803, and forty years later a pastor of the church in Lebanon, New Hampshire, had attended this celebration with one of his sons; and a short time afterwards exchanged pulpits with the pastor in ray native village of Lyme, New Hampshire. My mother was the widow of the previous pastor there, and as such, was well known to Mr. Cooke, who came into our house after the afternoon service, as was customary with him, and related to my mother at length his recent experiences at his alma mater in Massachusetts. I was then a boy of thirteen years, and listened intently but not over-intelligently to this talk. Phineas Cooke was an immensely tall man, six feet and six inches in height ; he was also an immensely solemn man in his manner of speaking, employing a sort of cluck of the tongue at the close of each sentence deemed important ; and on account of both these peculiarities, he was popularly known in that region as the high priest of New Hamp- shire. He was a native of old Hadley on the Connecticut, and natu- rally enough passed over the Hoosac Mountain to Williamstown for his college education. But in the forty years from his graduation he had never revisited the place. Great changes had taken place here in that time, as a matter of course. His son, who came with him hither in 1843 from Lebanon, had, in the mean time, grown up and bfien graduated at Dartmouth. The two were entertained at the Semi-|entennial by an elderly lady, Mrs. Amasa Shattuck, who, as a girl, had waited at table on Cooke in her father's, William Smith's, house in Water Street ; and now both father and son were waited on at table by Mary Shattuck, a granddaughter of the hostess, Mrs. Smith, of more than forty years before. All this, and much more than this, of a similar kind, was oracularly given out in the way VI PREFACE. of reminiscence to my mother on that sunny Sunday afternoon. It soon passed out of a small boy's head, although not irrecoverably. Nearly five years later, when my own preparation for college was about completed, my own pastor in Lyme, llev. Erdix Tenny, who was my father's successor there, chanced to ask me where I was expecting to go to college. I answered, " Dartmouth," — which was but nine miles distant from my home, and, as I supposed, the only institution accessible to me in my poverty. He himself was an alumnus of Middlebury, and had, on several grounds, a strong prejudice against Dartmouth, and kindly suggested to me whether Williamstown might not be a good place for me to go to. He men- tioned Mark Hopkins as the popular and efficient president there, — a name that somehow settled down into my memory. After I had gone back to Thetford Academy, which was just across the Connec- ticut Kiver from my native village, and in plain sight on its hilltop, I thought over at my leisure what the minister had said, and remem- ber now that the name " Hopkins " seemed to have then a sort of solid sound. I wrote to him for a catalogue of the college ; which he forwarded at once, and with it a copy of a pretty thick pamphlet entitled " Sketches of Williams College," just then written and pub- lished by David A. Wells of the class of 1847. The catalogue impressed me less than the pamphlet, for there was some striking history in the latter, and some romance ; some little account of the old French and Indian wars along the upper Hoosac, and of Fort Massachusetts and its capture by the French in 1746 ; and a little sketch, too, of Colonel Ephraim Williams, who wrote his last will and testament, as it were, in his life blood. I concluded to try Williams College. A fellow-passenger with me in the stage from Greenfield, over the Hoosac Mountain to North Adams, when I made my initial journey to Williamstown as a prosjDective freshman in September, 1848, was Waldo W. Ludden, then a member of the sophomore class. He was courteous and intelligent and won my confidence, and never afterwards lost it, although I was even then aware that a sophomore is a sort of natural enemy of a freshman. The story was told in the stage, that there " used to be " a notice-board to passengers at the foot of the mountain. Walk up if you please, and another upon the summit, Ride doivn if you dare. Somewhat as an echo of this last, when we reached the west descent of the mountain, Ludden proposed to me that we leave the stage and take a short cut adown, which, he said, was an old war-path of the Indians, and as straight as a gun- barrel. This statement excited my interest at once, and I accepted PREFACE. Vll the proposal with alacrity, plying him with questions, which he could not answer, as to what Indians frequented this old trail, and when, and why. When we reached the foot of the mountain, which was a considerable time before the stage reached it, I was struck with the position and beauty of the valley. About ten miles to the west of where we stood, the Taconics loomed up to defend the valley on that side, very much as the Hoosacs, over which we had just passed, stood guard over it on the east ; while all the huge tumbles tliat constitute the Greylock range formidably flanked it on the south, as the Dome and the Domelet overlooked it frowningly on the north. The two branches of the Hoosac River, which the Indians had named respectively the AshmciUticook and the Mayunsook, on the angle between which we were standing, united in the village of North Adams to form a stream, which, while it cannot compare in beauty with my native Connecticut in its long upper reaches, may yet claim something of the eulogy long ago poetically paid to that : — *'No watery gleams through happier valleys shine, Nor drinks the sea a lovelier wave than thine." In short, the Genius loci touched me at the very first ; and has never since loosened, but only tightened, its genial hold. During my college course of four years, I managed to find out all that anybody here then knew, which was very little indeed, about old Fort Massachusetts and the local events falling in the old French and Indian wars. I made the pleasant acquaintance of the old farmer who then owned the broad meadow along the Hoosac, on which the fort once stood, and who had ploughed over its rude lines time and time again, and whose son had once accidentally thrown off by his ploughshare the flat stone covering the well of the fort, and had looked down for a moment or two upon the rubbish of old utensils and whatnot, with which its depths were more than half filled up. He repeatedly visited the spot with me ; gave me permission to transport to the College the last headstone remaining legible in the little " God's Acre " just to the west of the site of the fort ; and at length, when I wished to set a memorial tree on the very site of the fort itself, he took pains to point out what he believed to be the middle of the parade-ground within the original enclosure or block- house. The large elm now growing there was planted in 1859 by my own hands in the precise spot thus indicated by Clement Harri- son. I wish here to acknowledge publicly the courtesy of the Young Men's Christian Association of North Adams, in which township falls the site of the fort, who, as I understand it, with unanimity Vlll PREFACE. and even enthusiasm, voted many years ago that that tree should in future be known as " Perry's Elm/' Throughout the whole of my mature life, now no longer short, all of it spent in Williamstown as my home and the place of varied labors, my early and constant interest in its original military occu- pation, — no other town in Massachusetts (I think) had such purely military beginnings; my later curiosity as to its successive civil establishments and development ; the circumstances under which it became still later the seat of a venerable and influential College ; my close and vital connection, through marriage and otherwise, with many of the remarkable persons and families among its earliest settlers and their descendants; — all those have served to deepen and broaden the gladdening researches made into the earlier and later facts relating to my town and College. Some of the results of this longtime interest and investigation are now presented to the public, in this volume. A mass of still unused and mostly subse- quent material, large portions of it concerning the origin and exi- gences and successes of the College, has already been slowly gathered and partially classified; and should a kind Providence but spare my life and strength a few years longer, the hope is fondly indulged that I may be able to give to my townsmen generally, and espe- cially to my fellow-alumni, another volume which may be probably entitled " Williamstown and Williams College," some indirect refer- ences to which may here and there be found in the text of the present work. A. L. P. February 27, 1894. TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Situation' CHAPTER II. Fort Massaciu'sett . C9 CHAPTER III. Ephraim Williams (•iiAi''i"i:i: IV West IIoosac CHAPTER V. W1LLIAM6TOWX . 4G; INDEX 02:5 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. 3l«ic CHAPTER I. SITUATION. Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth, is Mount Zion, on the sides of the north." — Psalms xlviii, 2. WiLLiAMSTOwx lles In the northwest corner of Massachusetts. Its northern line of five miles in length is, for that distance, the southern line of Vermont. The entire northern line of Massachu- setts was long in controversy between that state and New Hamp- shire, and was finally settled on by the Privy Council in England, March 10, 1740, in these words: "That the northern boundary of Massachusetts be a curved line pursuing the course of the Merrimack River at three miles distance, on the north side thereof, beginning at the Atlantic Ocean and ending at a point due north of Pawtucket Falls, ayid a straight course drawn from thence due icest, until it meets with his Majesty's other governments." This line was actually run the next year by a surveyor named Richard Hazen, a prominent citizen of Haverhill, on the Merrimack, and accordingly is sometimes called " Hazen's line," and has never since been altered. Pawtucket Falls are the rapids on which the city of Lowell was long afterwards built; but by some means the line to be drawn " due west," from a point three miles north of them, was really drawn about 1° 45' noi'th of due west ; so that Massachu- setts, so far as Williamstown is concerned, gained thereby more than one-third of the area of the town; otherwise the meadows of the Hoosac, the site of the College, the slopes of Prospect, and all the lands north of a line about midway between the two villages, would have been adjudged to New Hampshire, and afterwards have fallen 1 i; OKiaiNS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. to Vermont. It was indeed a blessed error of the compass that kept this fine strip of country within the jurisdiction of Massachusetts.^ When Kichard Hazen ran his line in 1741, he did not know pre- cisely at what point to the westward to stop; for the boundary between New York and Massachusetts had not then been definitely settled, and the authority under which he acted ordered the line to be ex- tended west "until it meets his Majesty's other governments." There had been, however, a general understanding ever since the Dutch ''New Netherland" had been conquered by the English in 1664, that that Province extended twenty miles east of Hudson's River. Indeed, a futile attempt had been made by the very commissioners, who took possession of the Province in the name of King Charles the Second, to draw, on that understanding, the western boundary line of Connecticut. So far as Massachusetts was concerned, such a line would correspond pretty nearly with the summits of the Taconic Hills. Accordingly, Hazen carried his line westward over the top of this range, calling that part crossed by the line '' Mount Belcher,'^ from the name of the governor under whose commission he was sur- veying, and supposed that the ultimate New York boundary would run along those summits, but, for the sake of convenience, he con- tinued the line " to Hudson's Eiver, at about eighty poles from the place where Mohawk River comes into Hudson's River." ^ Yet misunderstandings, as between New York and Massachusetts in relation to their boundary line, began early, and continued until 1773 ; some of the New York patroons claimed that their land-grants reached over into the valley of the Housatonic. A few Dutch pioneers had crept up the Hoosac from the westward, very near to the point where Hazen's line crosses that river. In 1739 the first committee from the government of Massachusetts, that came into this valley to survey it, complained in their report of "the great opposition we met with from sundry gentlemen from Albany," and the committee of the General Court to which this report was referred ^•ecommended " that the government of New York be informed by proper letters of the resolution of this Court herein, and that we are ready to join commissioners with such as shall be appointed by them for the stating and perambulating the bounds between each province." The same committee refer to "the better securing the undoubted right this government have to those and other lands there- about," and also refer to the lands as those "whereon some few 1 Original Surveys of Williamstown, as copied by Tutor Cofl&n in 1843; Williams' Vermont, p. 211 ; and Palfrey's Neiv England, v. 4, p. 558. 2 See Hazen's Journal of this Survey, first printed in 1879. SITUATION. 3 people have already got and inhabit''; again, iu 1749 another com- mittee " are further of opinion that a letter be sent from this govern- ment to the government of New York once more, to press them to join commissioners with such as shall be appointed by this Court for settling the boundaries between this government and that of New York " ; but at length, in 1773, all these anxieties were quieted by a Board of Mutual Commissioners, who, with the governors of the two provinces, met at Hartford, Connecticut, and agreed on the line sub- stantially as it now runs, although the line was not drawn and finally established till the summer of 1787, while the Federal Convention that framed our National Constitution was in session at Philadel- phia, both parties in the meantime having appealed to the Congress of the Confederation to appoint commissioners for that purpose. The persons thus appointed were John Ewing, David Rittenhouse, and Thomas Hutchins, all distinguished men, the first two citizens of Philadelphia, and the last, who did the work and made the report in the name of the three, was the first prominent American geogra- pher. He had been assisted in the survey by Professor Samuel Williams of Harvard College, afterwards a citizen and the first historian of Vermont. The line as thus settled by national authority is a straight line north by east, and its length as stated in the report was " fifty miles, forty-one chains, and seventy-nine links." A small equilateral triangle of land at its extreme southwest corner has since been granted by the state of Massachusetts to the state of New York, but with this insignificant exception the boundary-line between them is still Hutchins' line of 1787. It so happened that this line did not coincide at all with the west line of Williamstown as laid out in 1749 by a committee of the General Court of Massa- chusetts, but ran 446 rods to the west of the southwest corner of the town as then laid out, and gradually approached the old line as it ran northwards, and crossed it about a mile and a half south of Hazen's line, which line it struck at last about half a mile east of the top of the Taconic Ridge. This point is now the northwest corner of the town of Williamstown, of the county of Berkshire, and of the state of Massachusetts. It is also the southwest corner of the state of Vermont ; and it cuts into two very nearly equal parts the eastern line of the state of New York. It is marked at present by a small marble monument, which was probably set when the line was run in 1787. Its latitude is 42° 44', and its longitude 73° 13' west from Greenwich. Not far from 150 acres of the original town of Williams- town was in this way cut off from its northwest corner and thrown into New York, while a gore of land on the southwest of the old town 4 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. was thrown into Massachusetts, and fifty years later (April 9, 1838) annexed to Williamstown. The present western line of the town, ac- cordingly, is Hutchins' line for that distance, and is very nearly eight and one-fourth miles in length, and is in direction N. 20° 15' E., keep- ing all the way pretty near to the highest points of the Taconic Range, ^ The southern line of Williamstown, including, since 1838, the base- line of " the Gore," makes a straight course of very nearly six and three-fourths miles in length, and in direction a little south of east from the New York boundary to the western line of the present town of Adams. This course, bounding Hancock and New Ashford on the north, descends from the ridge of the Taconics, passes across the narrow valley of the Hancock Brook, runs over " Stratton Moun- tain " so-called (a huge wedge almost closing up the Williamstown valley on the south), so as to bring into the town the finely rounded northern face and summit of that mountain, next crosses the still narrower valley of the Ashford Brook, and then climbs up the steep side of Saddle Mountain, to strike the Adams line but little to the south of the peak of Grey lock. From this lofty point, the eastern boundary of the town, which is the only one of its four sides meeting with no change since Colonels Partridge and Choate and Captain Dwight traced the town's limits as a committee of the General Court in 1749, runs its course of about eight and one-fourth miles slightly to the east of north, at first high up along the western slope of Greylock, — about sixty rods from its highest summit, — and so along the western slopes of Mounts Fitch and Williams, all three of whose high heads are in what was the old township of East Hoosac, and then obliquely over the strong shoulder called " Wilbur's Pasture," which serves to unite Mount Williams with Mount Prospect, and then adown the gorge between these and diagonally across the valley of the Hoosac, — just cutting in twain the long woollen-mill in Blackinton, — and then climb- ing the slope of East Mountain to the north of the river, and passing along its western side more than half-way up to its summit, hits Hazen's line at last, and makes the northeast corner of the town. Within these four lines are enclosed as nearly as may be forty- seven square miles, or 30,000 acres, of wonderfully varied surface.- 1 Mass. Arch., v. 114, pp. 314, 315; Hildreth's U. S., v. 2, pp. 44, 572, v. 3, p. 531 ; Professor Dewey in Field's Berkshire, p. 9; Drake's Biog. Diet., arts. "Samuel Williams" and "Thomas Hutchins"; Rev. John Norton's iJedeemed Captive; and Coffin's Map of Williamstown. In these matters of angles and distances, I have had the help of my mathematically gifted colleagues, Professor Safford and Professor Dodd. 2 The exact mathematical direction of the southern and eastern town-lines cannot be given till another accurate survey be had ; nor can the exact length of any of the SITUATION. 6 It is time now to try to convey to readers who have never seen the Williamstown valley, to those who have sometimes seen it but now live at a distance from it, and even to those who live within it but have not had the leisure or the taste to examine it in detail, clearer conceptions of its grand outlines and delightful features. Perhaps this may best be done by following out what the Germans call the " river-and-mountain-system '' of the region. In its broader sense this valley lies enclosed between the Taconics on the west and the Hoosacs on the east, the tips of the two crests at this point are as nearly as possible twelve miles apart, the courses of the two mountiiin ranges are pretty nearly north and south, the valley is accordingly an east and west one, and the Hoosac Kiver flows through it on its northern edge in that general direction. The north branch of the Hoosac, called by the Indians 3fayunsook, washes the western slopes of the Hoosacs as they bound the valley at its north- east corner ; and the south branch, named by the aborigines Ashu- willticookj flows northerly through a narrow valley of its own between the Hoosacs and Saddle Mountain, draining the adjacent sides of the two at the southeast comer of the valley ; and then these two river-branches unite in the village of North Adams to form the Hoosac, along whose northern bank throughout the Will- iamstown valley, and so on to the Hudson, ran for one hundred years in the historical times ending in 1759 (and no one can tell for how much longer) the great eastern war-trail of the Six Nations from their homes on the Mohawk (and to the west of it) to the Deerfield and the Connecticut. The Canada Indians, also, in con- junction with their French allies, trod the same war-path to reach Fort Massachusetts and the valleys beyond the Hoosac Mountain. The village of Williamstown is just west from that of North Adams, at five miles' distance, but the two are mostly out of sight of each other owing to an intervening ridge through which the Hoosac has forced its way to the westward, namely, the easternmost of the three lobes of Saddle Mountain, which is called the " Raven Rock," and which slopes gradually down to the south bank of the Hoosac, four lines be given till then. Correction for the variation of the needle was made for the west line, — that is, exactly N. 20^ 15' E. ; but corrections for variation were not made in the original survey of 1749, and the results for the three lines were stated then as follows : north line, " S. 82^ E., 1583 rods " ; east line, " S. »^50' W., 2G00 rods " ; south line, " N. 80° 30' W. ; 2120 rods." To the length of this line 44G rods have since been added. As the measurement of the lots within the lines was originally under- stated, as a rule, so it is probable that lengths as then measured were understated also. The town-area given in the text must be very nearly right. See Field's Berk- shire, pp. 9, 397. My fellow-townsmen, William Torrey and J. A. Eldridge, surveyors, have given me information on these points. 6 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. and is penetrated near the stream by the " Little Tunnel " of the railroad, while from the north bank there rises up at once a spur of the Green Mountains extending northerly into Vermont. To one looking due east from any part of the village of Williamstown or from the highlands to the westward of that clear to the top of the Taconics, the view is limited by a long and low arc of a circle, the southern tip of which is the summit of Mount Williams (the northern point of the central lobe of Saddle Mountain), and the northern tip of which is the summit of Smedley Height (the south end of the Green Mountain spur just referred to), and the centre of which is the tops of the Hoosacs. These tops, though some miles more distant than the slopes of the other two, form, to the eye of a Williamstown observer, one bended line with them, and constitute the arc within which the sun rises throughout the year, and within which are the visible risings of the moon also. The grandest sight vouchsafed the dwellers on this part of the Hoosac is the sun of a cloudless morning rising in its strength in some part of this long arc, and the most beautiful sight is the full moon ascending the blue from some point within it. At the summer solstice the sun rises directly over the Smedley Height, and the point of dawn shifts daily to the southward, till at the winter solstice it is just over that part of the line made by the lower slope of Mount Williams. The writer's eastern piazza happens to front the middle part of this slightly concave line, and he has watched with delight, for many years, the annual passage of the sun back and forth between these extreme points, and also the corresponding movements of the moon ; and this middle part happens to be just that point of the ridge of the Hoosacs under which passes the famous " Hoosac Tunnel." The Hoosac River from the junction of its two branches flows nearly due west three-quarters of a mile, and then bending southerly has upon its right bank the spacious meadow on which Fort Massa- chusetts once stood, and then turning slowly to its westerly course again, through narrower meadows on either side, trends suddenly to the northward at about four miles' distance from the junction, and thence flows through meadows, growing for the most part broader in a general northwesterly direction, till at length it meets the Hudson. This sharp bend of the river at the southwestern foot of Smedley Height brings into view the Williamstown valley in its secondary sense as a valley extending north and south. Just after this bend is taken the Hoosac receives its largest tributary in this part of its course ; namely, the so-called Green River, which is formed at South Williamstown village by the junction of the Ashford and SITUATION. 7 Hancock brooks, both of which enter Williamstown from the south, the first washing the eastern foot, and the second the western foot, of Stratton Mountain. The head-springs of both these brooks are on the same watershed, and on the same parallel of latitude, about five miles apart, and about ten miles south of the point where the Green River strikes into the Hoosac. The Ashford Brook rises just near the town-line between New Ashford and Lanesboro, at an altitude 1300 feet above tide-water; and within a few rods of the spring is the swamp whose drainage forms the northernmost branch of the Housatonic River, whose course ends in Long Island Sound. The Hancock Brook rises on a swell of the Taconics, very near the state- line between Massachusetts and New York, and soon turning at right angles to the north, flows in that direction through a narrow but very fertile valley, to its junction with the other. On the same swell of the Taconics with the source of this brook, and only a short distance to the south of it, lies the source of the Kinderhook creek, which, flowing southerly through the Hancock valley and Stephentown, reaches the Hudson at Schodack. Five miles long is the Green River, and the point at which it pours into the Hoosac just above the railroad station is only about 5So feet above tide- water. A mile lower down the main river comes in another tribu- tary from the southward, which is called Hemlock Brook ; and it is these four streams together, with the lower reach of the Hoosac in the town, which form the " Williamstown valley " in its narrower sense ; that is to say, the latitudinal valley lying wholly within the town limits, in contrast with the longitudinal valley of about the same length comprising the northern parts of both Williamstown and North Adams. At the point where the old county road from Pittsfield to Ben- nington crosses the Hoosac at the bloody bridge, the river, which has kept an almost straight northwest line from the junction of the Green, flows due west till it takes in the waters of the Hemlock, then curves pretty sharply for a due north course for a while, and then bends eastward till it touches the county road again just before both of them leave the town altogether. Thus the road between these two points subtends what is very nearly a semicircle of river, which encloses the " River Bend Farm," so-called, of which we shall hear more by and by, because it was a French and Indian station in the old French wars, and because it became the home of Colonel Benjamin Simonds for many years ; the same arc encloses also six of the original Meadow Lots, three of the original Pine Lots, 8 OEIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. two of the original fifty-acre Lots, as these were early divided by and among the " proprietors " ; and it encloses also the mouth of the Broad Brook, a very considerable tributary of the Hoosac coming into it on the east side at right -angles, whose two branches, uniting a little north of the town and state line at a place called the " Forks," drain a small section of southern Vermont. All the pine timber of the original town grew on or near the banks of the Broad Brook, the first saw-mill of the town was carried by its water, and its site en- closed within the semicircle, and some young pines are now grow- ing up again on these lands divided in 1765 into sixty-three " pine lots" of three acres and sixty rods each. Just beyond the Vermont line the Hoosac receives also on the east side the water of Ware's 43r Rattlesnake Brook, a small stream that comes tumbling down the hillside. The bridge over this stream on the old county road, which is also here the old Indian trail, is the beginning of the ■" Dug AVay " so-called, a very narrow road cut into the hill for a mile or so in Pownal right along the right brink of the Hoosac. The only other affluents of our river received in Williamstown of any account are two small brooks flowing down the north sides of Saddle Mountain and hitting the stream close together just after it enters the town from North Adams. Of course the lowest point of land in Williamstown, since all the running water of the valleys and hillsides drains into the Hoosac, is the place where the river cuts the north line of the town into two equal parts and pours into Vermont. This point is about thirty-five feet lower than the river level at the Noble bridge near the railroad station. When they were running the north line of the state of Massachusetts, Eichard Hazen and his helpers crossed the river at this point on Sunday, the 12th of April, 1741. ''With difficulty we waded it and lodged on ye AVest side that night. It Clouded over before Night and rained sometime before day, which caused us to stretch Our blankets and lye under them on ye bare ground, which was the first bare ground we laid on after we left Northfield." This interesting lodging-place of the sturdy surveyor, who was a God- fearing man notwithstanding he continued his survey through the wilderness on Sunday, is on the broad and beautiful meadow once owned by John Bascom, and is within plain sight and a stone's throw of the " Line House " so-called on the public highway. In- deed, Hazen's line bisects both the house and the meadow. From the Hoosac at this lodging-place the old surveyor found it twenty- one miles and sixty rods to the Hudson River, — " at about Eighty poles from the place where Mohawk fiver comes into Hudson's river." SITUATION. 9 There is not a single lake or pond within the limits of Williams- town, and, consequently, except as dams have been thrown across the streams for puriK)ses of utility or beauty, there is no expanse of water anywhere. This is the only fault that has ever been found with the region as one of picturesque beauty. Along the Hoosac and the lesser streams there is considerable alluvial land, much of which was originally cut into <* meadow lots," and which is natur- ally very fertile laud ; of swampy or marshy land there is very little in the town, although the mosses and ferns, which are pretty sure signs of a soil too wet and cold to be productive, are not wanting in the hill pastures and poorer meadows ; ui)land of a moderate height above the streams, and easily tilled and fairly productive, constitutes by much the larger part of the surface ; and a good deal of the rest is pretty steep and sometimes pretty stony hillsides. There is almost no land in the whole circuit that will not bear forest trees, and forest trees in their due proix)rtion are as profitable a crop as can be raised. There are perhaps 2500 acres of ground which has once been cleared and tilled, which would have been, and would be now, more productive in forest than as ploughed or pastured, and some of this is being allowed to grow up again to trees, although systematic tree-planting to any considerable extent in fields has never yet been practised here, as surely it might profitably be done. AVhen first explored and surveyed, the town was splendidly wooded in every part, of which the evidence is the direct testimony of the surveyors and early settlers, and also the early division among the householders of the " pine lots " and the " oak lots." Of more than one of the early land-buyers and home-seekers trustworthy tradition reports that he came in " and went to chopping." The curve of the Hoosac that we have been following from its entrance on the east to its exit on the north, cuts off from the rest of the town its remarkably picturesque northeast corner, which con- tains about one-ninth of its entire area, and which has had a history and development somewhat distinct from that of the rest of it. We are concerned at present only with the ])hysical features of this iso- lated part. From the first settlement of the town it has borne the designation of the " White Oaks," and it is almost certain now to carry this name onwards till the end of time. All the original *'oak lots" were within this curve; of white oak timber in the other parts of the town there was little or none ; and when, in 1866, the unique and self-denying labors of Professor Hopkins had estab- lished a church on the Broad Brook, he christened it the " Church of Christ in AVhite Oaks." This organization shows no signs of 10 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. decay, the memory of the great and good man who breathed it into form gives no sign of getting dim, and the name that had been attached to the locality for a century has now accordingly been fas- tened to it by a new tie of gratitude and religion. The lands of this section consist of the pratty broad and very fertile bottoms along the right bank of the Hoosac, and some intervale along both banks of the lower Broad Brook ; of about a thousand acres of tolerably level upland, mostly on what is called Oak Hill ; and for the rest, of the rather steep slopes of that spur of the Green Mountains which has already been referred to. This spur is very irregular in shape, and, with its connecting mountains further north, forms a striking Mount Hazen. " EAST MOUNTAIN." 2. Hudson's Height. 3. Mount Ennnnons. 4. Snnedley Height. feature in the landscape of southwestern Vermont ; but the part of it with which we shall have most to do, which is commonly called as a whole "East Mountain," in relation to the village and the College, and which rises up sharply from the north bank of the Hoosac as it enters the town into a noble ridge (running north) on the average about 1600 feet above the stream, has none of its four summits in Williamstown, and only about two-thirds of its western slopes. Of these four summits, which are tolerably distinct from each other as seen from the westward, the northernmost and highest, which has been appropriately named " Mount Hazen " in honor of the old surveyor of 1741, who ran his line over this ridge and just at the foot of this rise, rests wholly in Vermont, and curves to the west from the general direction of the ridge as if to do obeisance to SITUATION. 11 the majestic *^ Dome," and slopes down rapidly northwards to the ''Forks " already mentioned. This peak of Mount Hazen, which closes up the view from our village to the northeast, is 2500 feet above sea by careful estimation from the known heights of neighboring peaks. " Hazen's Rock," an immense boulder tirst noticed and named and marked by the writer and his eldest son, stands about nine rods north of the '' line " and about three rods west of the crest of the ridge; and it is possible, if not probable, that Hazen stood upon this rock when he saw what he describes in his *' Journal " under April 12, 1741. The next swell to the south of this, and perhaps 250 feet lower, has been well called " Hudson's Height " in memory of Captain Seth Hudson, the last survivor of the original jiroprietors of Williamstown and of the officers, and probably also of the sol- diers, of Fort Massachusetts. He was at one time, as we shall see by and by, the surgeon, and at another the commander, of Fort Massachusetts in its decline. The third summit is a beautifully rounded one, free from trees and other obstructions to the view, 2276 feet above the sea-level, and the only place in the region where the primeval gneiss rock comes to the surface, while there are huge boulders scattered over the entire ridge, from several of which, and especially from Hazen's Rock, almost the entire lines of the town and nearly its whole area can be seen at one view. Into the solid rock on this third height was sunk, many years ago, for scientific purposes, a copper bolt, and the height itself has been justly des- ignated " Mount Emmons " by one who was once a pupil and later a colleague and always an admirer of the distinguished Professor of Natural History in the College, Ebenezer Emmons. He was the author and founder of what he named the " Taconic System " in geology, which became famous in the annals of that science, and he used often to take his students to this local point of advantage to show them the gneiss — the foundation rock of his science — and to display to them as best he could the relations of his " system '' to the other and then better known geological strata. The south peak of this ridge of East ^lountain has already been spoken of as " Smedley Height," so named in honor of that family which first cleared up the acres at its foot, and owned the oak lots stretching up towards its summit, and cultivates to this day, by some of its descendants, a part of these ancestral fields. Smedley Height is 1917 feet above tide-water according to hypsometric measurements made by John Tatlock, then a student in the College, in 1881. The present view in summer-time from any one of these four summits, of which the three last named are in the town of Clarks- 12 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. burg, is such as to well reward the zeal and sweat of the climber. Cultivated farms fill up the valley and the lower uplands for the most part, green pastures with patches of second-growth forest occupy the mountain slopes, the Hoosac and its main tributaries glance and glimmer in the sunlight, the scalloped crests of the Taconics, deeply dented at four points for the passes over them, and covered mostly with forest trees, bound the view to the westward, while the three lobes of Saddle Mountain with its spurs and the finely rounded front of Stratton Mountain, with a brook at either foot, limit the southern view. Even Richard Hazen was struck with admiration, cold-blooded mathematician though he were, and unopened yet by axe or fire as were the primeval forests of the val- leys and the hillsides, when he and his men came upon this ridge in the early springtime. '•' At the End of three miles we Came upon the top of an Exceeding High Mountain [East Mountain], from whence we discovered a large Mountain which lyes Southwesterly of Albany [the Catskills], as also a Eow of large mountains on Each side of us bearing North and South nearest [Saddle Mountain and Green Mountains] and a Eidge of exceeding high Mountains three or four miles before us bearing the same Course [the Taconics] and a fine valley betwixt them and us on Each side of the line [Hazen's line] big enough for Townships [Hoosac valley]." This ridge of East Mountain, to one or all of the rounded points of which it is much to be hoped that a carriage road from the valley will sometime be laid, since by utilizing existing roads this may be done without too great difficulty, bounds the White Oaks region on the east ; and it is bounded on the north by the lower slopes of the " Dome," the largest and finest mountain that is in plain view from the valley. Greylock is not visible to the dwellers on the Hoosac and Green rivers and Hemlock Brook, nor from either of the villages of Williamstown, owing to the height of Mount Prospect and Bald Mountain, which together form the western lobe of Saddle Moun- tain; while the Dome rises gradually up in silent and solemn majesty from the brink of Broad Brook to a height of at least 3000 feet above the tides of the sea, and is visible from every quarter of the town, and is, perhaps, the most striking feature of its landscape, which it limits on the north. The name was most appropriately given to it by Professor Hopkins, from its form. The most of its mighty mass is in Vermont, and it has companion piles to the north and east of it, particularly in the "Haystack," which seems to overtop it, while itself falls gracefully down on the south and west in fertile swells and charming fields to the brook and to the river. Half-way down SITUATION. 13 towards the west a little knob, called the " Domelet," protrudes its head, as if to exhibit by way of contrast the gigantic proportions of the other ; and still farther down in the same direction a wholly cleared and very fertile swell of land, named " Mason's Hill," carries the gladdened eye clear down to the Hoosac. On the southern foot of the Dome, at a few yards above Broad Brook and drawing into it, gushes up out of the sand, from a clear bottom, a copious thermal spring, which has been called the " Sand Spring " from the beginning of the town. Its w^ater has a mean temperature throughout the year of 71°, and is not only warm, but soft also, owing to the absence of limestone in that locality. This spring has something of a history, and we shall hear more about it LuJSit le^is**' I. The Dome. 2. The Don-c tt by and by. There is only one other thermal spring within tlie town boundaries, and that is on the other side of the Hoosac, about a mile west of this one and on the same parallel, though its mean tempera- ture is something like 10° lower than the Sand Spring. Professor Bascom, who once owned this smaller spring and the meadow through w^hich its water finds a short way to the Hoosac, believed that its average temperature for the year was not less than 64°. In com- parison with these thermal springs, Professor Hopkins found the mean temperature of the water of his well, and presumably of other ordinary springs and wells in the town, to be 47°, which he also found to be the mean temperature of the air above his well, as a result of personal observations made three times a day throughout an entire year. Before leaving the "White Oaks "for good in this cursory descrip- tion of its physical features, we must just note the historical fact 14 ORIGINS IN WILLI AMSTOWN. that its main road, following in general the course of the river on its north side, which we shall call the " Hoosac Koad," since it has been so named certainly from the time when the captives of Fort Massachusetts passed over it in 1746, is a part of the old Mohawk war-path, by which the Five Nations and the Canada Indians (as well) passed to their raids and battles on the Deerfield and the Con- necticut. We must also note the fact that nearly all of the sandy land in the town is found in this locality. Pines like the sand, and while the oaks and other deciduous trees clung to the sides of East Mountain to its very crest, the sandy levels on Oak Hill, and patches here and there partly on Broad Brook and partly on the Hoosac, grew up originally to lofty pines. A special road was very early laid out, branching off from the road up Broad Brook, which itself left the Hoosac Road at right angles, " to convean the pine lots." This road ran up northeasterly almost to Hazen's line, and stopped on the last range of pine lots which butted on that line. Memorials of these old pines appear at the present day in the beautiful grove in front of the Sand Spring Hotel, in the fine grove of young pines opened up in 1883 as a pleasure resort by John M. Cole, near the railroad station, and called the " Garden of Eden,*' and in clusters of small pines scattered over almost the whole of the old pine area. Back from the river land has always been cheap in the White Oaks, partly because it is poor land, and partly because it has always had a poor population ; but a sort of half-weird and half-Hebrew glory was thrown over the whole region by the labors, and especially by the recreations, of Professor Hopkins, who named, for example, his own farm on Broad Brook " Steepacres," the pine level of Oak Hill the " land of Goshen," and a huge rock a little to the east of the summit of the Dome " White Face " ; and whose inexhaustible humor enter- tained almost without end the young ladies of his " Alpine Club," SiS well as any casual fellow- walker (reverend or gay) over his favor- ite tramping-grounds, with quaint names and odd Scripture allusions and bits of old superstition. The very stones of Broad Brook assumed, through his imagination, strange shapes and took on queer names and preached grotesque sermons, and the flora of the hills became redolent of far-off lands, and even the maples of the spring-time reminded him of the cedars of Lebanon which were " full of sap." Now if we cross over the Hoosac on Hazen's line, and tarry just long enough on the meadow where that worthy " slept on ye bare ground" to christen it in passing, and yet in permanence the " Bascom Meadow," since John Bascom, long a citizen of Williams- town and a successful teacher in the College and always deeply SITUATION. 15 interested in the history and prosperity of both, once owned the meadow for many years ; and if we climb up the steep ascent abut- ting on the meadow, we shall shortly find ourselves on the crest of North West Hill, one of the four foot-hills of the Taconic Range in this town, lying in a line north and south on the western side of the valley. North West Hill has greatly declined in its importance, from the early time, and would hardly delay us at present for much description, were it not that it became then very populous, that the principal road to Bennington ran along its crest, and that the land and woods upon it and upon the shallow-dish valley that connects it with the much higher parent ridge, and upon that parent ridge itself drew out again the admiration of our " noted and ingenious surveyor of land" {Boston Gazette, February 19,1754). liichard Hazen wrote in his " Journal," April 13, 1741, " This Mountain was Exceeding good Land, bearing beech. Black birch, and Hemlock, some Bass wood. Over this Mountain we concluded the line would run betwixt New York Government and these whenever it should be settled, and therefore nam*^ it Mount Belcher that it might be as Standing a Boundary as Endicutt's Tree." About in the centre of this broadly dish-shaped valley a small brook rises in some bits of springy and swampy land, which holds its semicircular course of about two miles through deep glens for the most part, and then falls into the Hemlock Brook, just before the latter drops silently into the Hoosac. This little brook is well called the " Ford Brook " in memory of good old deacon Zadock Ford, the edge of whose farm w^as washed by it; and the deepest and darkest stretch of glen through which the brook bickers along is called ^'Ford's Glen.'' This brook completely bounds North West Hill on the south. The North West Hill Road, which starts at right angles from the west end of the Main Street and skirts along the last house lot of the northern tier, soon crosses Ford Brook and begins to climb the hill. The hill is a short two miles long in Williamstown, and then falls abruptly off to the Hoosac in Pownal. The original road ran pretty straight over the hill lengthwise, generally a little to the west of its highest crest, but the northern half of it has been discontinued for travel for many years, on account of its steepness and liability to wash out, and the branch road, which turned off to the west to reach the farms on the flat, and then bent north parallel to the old road to strike the Hoosac by a shorter and somewhat less precipitous descent (though still steep) is now the only road. There are eiglit of the original 100-acre lots, and three of the fifty-acre lots of the first division, on this hill proper; and from time to time several 16 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. poor families have pushed quite ovei^ the broad level upon the sixty-acre lots on the final slope of the Taconics. Before Hazen's line makes its final mount to cross the Taconics it runs up into a hollow of the mountain side, which goes by the name of the " Moon Hollow," from the name of a poor family that lived within it for three-quarters of a century or more. Here corner two states flanked by a third. The Xew York line that Hazen supposed would run along the crest of " Mount Belcher," as he himself named the swell of the Taconics at this point, as a matter of fact came further east in 1787, and runs across this hollow, so that the Moon house (now occupied by a man named Haley) and a part of the little farm are in the state of Xew York. A small marble monument marks the corners of Vermont and Massachusetts ; and one of the long-legged Moons once slept in summer-time astrad- dle of this stone, and afterwards boasted that he had lodged in three states the same night. This monument has been thrown out of plumb by the roots of a tree underneath which it stands, and has otherwise a rather forlorn appearance ; but it has served its rude purpose for a century, and deserves perhaps this passing notice of one who has often mused upon the spot. There is nothing special to distinguish Mount Belcher from the rest of the noble ridge of which it forms a part, although the resuscitation of the name after 140 years of inanition in the " Journal " of Richard Hazen brings worthily to memory again a remarkable man of the last century, Jonathan Belcher, an American-born colonial governor of three states, and the real founder of the College of Xew Jersey at Princeton. The second of the foot-hills of the Taconics in order southward has been called '' Buxton" from immemorial time, probably from Buxton in England, though what the tie of connection be (if any) has not been ascertained. Buxton is a much lower and smaller hill than the other three, and differs from them also in having been com- pletely cleared in every part from forest trees. Xorth West Hill is about 600 feet in its highest parts above the Hoosac at its base : Buxton is in no part over 300 feet above the two brooks which almost completely encircle it. It has the Ford Brook on the north, and the Buxton Brook on the west and south. Buxton Brook, a beautiful stream in its whole course of three miles, rises in the very northwest corner of the town in two branches, the springs of both being just under the New York line, one of them in the Moon Hol- low, and the other in a gorge a little to the south of it ; and these small branches unite only a few rods south of the springy hollows SITUATION. 17 in which Ford Brook takes its rise, and then flow on a considerable stream flanking the Buxton farms, receiving a small tributary called " Birch Hill Brook " on the southern side, and then striking the northern tier of House Lots at the west end of the Main Street di- vides them into two nearly equal portions till in House Lot number 10 it empties into the larger " Hemlock Brook," which latter now hurries out of the House Lots to its junction with the Hoosac. A little above the junction of the Buxton with the Hemlock, there is, in the former, a shaded pool, which has long gone by the name of " Diana's Bath," a designation so far as this inappropriate, that the pool is quite too small and shallow to correspond with the person of that goddess as she is usually represented in Greek and Roman art. No part of the original House Lots should be considered as in Buxton, although a considerable part has long been popularly so reckoned : only that is Buxton proper, which lies west of the north- ern range of House Lots and within the two brooks so often already mentioned. In the angle between Buxton Brook and its small tributary. Birch Hill Brook, there lies one of the oldest farms in Williamstown, com- monly called the " Red House Farm," owned since 1782 for a cen- tury by the Sherman family, and owned before that by Joel Baldwin. This farm runs back towards the west into a conical hill, which has been repeatedly ploughed to its very top, though apparently never seeded down, and which has upon its summit about a quarter of an acre of level ground, whence may be had in all directions one of the finest views in Williamstown. Perhaps we may properly call this hill "Joel's Sentry," for it overlooks and is a part of Joel Baldwins original farm, and it overlooks also every part of his later farm ad- joining on North West Hill, on which he died in 1808. The Red House Farm is not a part of Buxton, nor is it strictly a part of Birch Hill ; it lies west of the one and north of the other ; Joel's Sentry is not itself of suflicient size to be enumerated as a separate foot-hill of the Taconics, and it slopes down sharply to the west into a shal- low valley separating it from them. This valley runs north, under and parallel with the Taconics, quite up to North West Hill. Through the entire length of this narrow valley there ran a private way in old times from the Petersburg Road at Donahue's to the North West Hill Road not far from Baldwin's. In this valley once lived the Fowler family, and later the Welch family intermarried with that, and still later Russell Pratt and others. There are no dwellers in that valley now, though the Fowler house and a barn or two are still standing within it. There are also one or two deserted 18 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. houses on the upper stretch of Buxton Brook not far off. By means of this " Fowler Vale " accordingly, and especially by the common shoulder of the Taconics in which all the brooks here take their rise, North West Hill and Buxton and '^ Joel's Sentry " farm are closely connected together, and are separated from the hills to the southward by Birch Hill Brook and by a still higher shoulder of the Taconic range. This strong shoulder is common to the two remaining hills on the western side of the Williamstown valley, namely, " Birch Hill " and " Bee Hill," the former named from its prevailing forest tree (pre- vailing now also, as well as a century ago), and the latter un- doubtedly from the abundance of wild honey found upon it by the early settlers. This shoulder strikes out southeastwardly from the general trend of the Taconics, and becomes the means of reaching readily from this side the first practicable X3ass over them into the state of New York. We have seen that Surveyor Hazen honored his official superior, the governor of Massachusetts and New Hamp- shire, by naming the northern reach of the mountain-chain over which his own chain ran " Mount Belcher," but that reach is all the way abrupt, and gives no chance for a road over it ; while this connecting shoulder unites the mountain at a point where itself is considerably depressed with two comparatively high foot-hills, which may be gradually ascended, and so a relatively easy passage be found over the mountain by what may best be called the " Peters- burg Pass," from the name of the New York town on the other side. What we have called the Petersburg Road is the continuation of the main street of the village at its west end, where the North West Hill Eoad leaves it at right angles, and runs almost due west for about a mile, at first up the Buxton Brook, and then from its junction with that up the Birch Hill Brook to Donahue's in the old 100-acre lot number 63. Both of the small branches of this brook rise in that lot or just over its outer lines and unite within it, so that the brook and the road that flanks it are the northern boundary of Birch Hill. In common speech the " Eed House " and the Donahue house have always been reckoned as on Birch Hill, and so they may be well enough considered, for they are on the road that follows up the brook which itself is the natural boundary between the hills. At Donahue's the road turns south at a right angle and runs straight for more than half a mile, to strike the shoulder on which to find a means of exit at the Petersburg Pass. Just at the point at which the road turns northwest again to pursue its gradual climb towards the Pass, namely, on the old SITUATION. 19 sixty-acre lot iiumuer ^^4, wini-ii is coiniiioiily called the "Prindle Place," there is a junction of the road at the corner with a narrow and pretty steep valley running due east, through all the lower part of which glides the '^ Glen Brook " so-called, which fails into the Hemlock Brook only a few rods south of the southwestern quarter of the House Lots. This valley and brook, up which a broken road once ran, was always called in old-fashioned times the "Gully," but is now more euphoniously and appropriately denomi- nated the '' Glen," and is for our present purpose the picturesque border line between Birch and Bee hills. Before describing the latter we will follow our Petersburg Road to the Pass. For a mile or more now the road runs strongly north- west, just under the ridge of the shoulder, for the Pass is exactly due west of Donahue's, and the road direct from his house takes the traveller much to the south for the sake of an easier and more uniform climb, and this space must be regained by a northerly trend, which brings one at length on a level with the Pass and oppo- site to it about a half-mile off. There is at first, with a sharp turn to the west, a slight descent from this final point of the shoulder, and then a little further ascent brings the traveller or scene-hunter directly upon the main Taconic in the well-rounded Petersburg Pass. This is a natural depression (shaped just like a saddle) below the general height of the main ridge in this part of it of perhaps 150 feet; the centre of it is 2075 feet above the sea-level, the top of " Leet Hill " directly to the south of it is 459 feet higher, the gap is entirely free from trees on both its approaches, so that sight is unobstructed for- wards and backwards ; the land on both its rising flanks was long ago cleared, and has been of ten ploughed ; the winds that sweep through it are such that a new forest growth will but slowly recover its hold on the soil ; and the view that one gains from the centre of it towards the west is such as baffles all description. Tumbled hills just below in the valley of the " Little Hoosac " ; innumerable farms on and be- tween these hills; roads like white ribbands leading through the valleys ; higher ridges, broken and beautiful, filling the breadth be- tween these and the valley of the Hudson ; apparently rising grounds beyond that river, both fertile and wooded, lying "green and still," and stretching as far as the eye can reach ; the dim outline of the Catskills to the southwest beyond Albany ; and far to the northward the dark evergreen peaks of the Adirondacks mingling with the sky, — are elements in a view never to be forgotten by those who have seen it even once under favorable conditions. The writer, who has seen it perhaps twenty times in all seasons, was gazing on it in company 20 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. with a dear friend, July 26, 1879, when vast masses of white mist were seen gathering in the valley below, which rose slowly up the sides of the mountain and soon completely cut off all vision to the westward, and which, rising higher and higher, borne by the usual sweep of the winds up and over the Pass, wholly encircled and covered the observers, bringing to them with a damp and chill a sense of aerial unsteadiness and a sort of wonderment not un- mingled with awe. Buckwheat and other grains were growing that day (though small) just over the western brow of the Pass, and the scene to the west shows more fertile land than that to the eastward ; but our con- cern at present is more with Massachusetts than with New York, and more with Williamstown than with Petersburg, a pleasant village in the valley of the '^ Little Hoosac,'^ which gives its name to the Pass, and down into which the Pass road winds at first abruptly and then more gently between swelling hillocks and fertile farms on either side. The resemblance of this great gap in the Taconics to a saddle may be carried out even into details ; for there rises up on the north immediately from the road a regular knob 100 feet high which may well be regarded as the pommel, and on the south a gentler, higher, more rounded arc, which well serves the fancy as the cantel. This imaginary cantel is the actual northern face of Leet Hill, a symmetrical swell of the Taconics at this point, 2534 feet above the level of the ocean, at whose southeastern foot is a mountain farm that was occupied uninterruptedly for more than a century by four generations in succession of one family bearing that name. The farm was sold out of the family in the spring of 1885. Of " poor old Jared Leet," who cleared up this farm on the hillside, singing rude songs of his own to while away his toil, specimens of which may enliven a future page, a grandson of Governor William Leet of Connecticut, who befriended the regicides in their direst need, we shall know more in the sequel. The scene to the eastward from the summit of the gap, from the pommel above it, or from a point in the road about a quarter of a mile below it, is essentially the same in all its grand features, and is perhaps the noblest view anywhere to be seen in this region : Treadwell Hollow widens out before the eye like a huge boat, and the broad lands between the two villages of Williamstown seem at that altitude like levels, and the eye is carried forward in a straight line into the Hopper and up the sides of Prospect and Bald mountains till old Greylock itself satisfies while it limits the vision. It cannot be less than seven miles from the Pass to the summit of SITUATION. 21 Greylock ; and it seems most like stamling on the stern of an enor- mous steamer, whose sides swell out at the centre to contract again in the distance, and whose prow is pressed up into a gigantic j)eak bearing streamers I When David Dudley Field, the distinguished legist and publicist, was seventy-live years of age, he drove to this Pass in company with his classmate of 1826, Kev. Dr. Durfee, his son-in-law. Sir Anthony Musgrave, then British governor of Jamaica, and one of the pro- fessors of the College. Although a graduate, and a frequent visitor to Williamstown all his life, he had never before climbed to any pass of the Taconics. He took in the majestic scene right and left, but said little ; and then proposed to the Professor that they clamber on foot to the top of the pommel. Straight as an arrow, six feet and one quarter in height, showing few signs of age, he reached the top with scarcely quickened breath. Though born and reared in New England, and Massachusetts was then his summer home, his companion observed that his quick glances towards the Hoosacs returned to linger fondly on the Adirondacks and the Catskills and the regions between and beyond them, and down towards the city ■where his more than fift}' j'ears of successful legal life had been passed; and, with the single expression on liis ]\\\^. ^' It is the Enijdre State ! " he returned to his carriage. The stretch of the Taconics to the north ot the pommel as far as Hazen's line and beyond it, may well be included in the general designation of Mount Belcher, for the reason already indicated; there is, indeed, much that is distinctive and more that is beautiful in this part of the range, in the way of swell and fall and curve, till the range itself sinks gradually down to the intervale level at the junction of the Little Hoosac with the Hoosac at North Petersburg ; and a carriage road might run without any great difficulty along or near the summit of the range from the Pass itself to this junction, following in general the path by which students and others have long frequented the " Snow-Hole,*' so-called, a rocky gorge on the eastern slope not far from the corner of the states, in which snow is usually found in August and sometimes in September. In the very Pass itself is the point where the New York line of 1787 bisected the original west line of Williamstown drawn in 1749. South of that point is the acute angle of the " Gore " broadening to its base of 446 rods of the present south line of the town, and north of it is the small triangle already described as cut off from Williamstown by the line of 1787, and thrown into the state of New York. We must now give a moment's attention to the etymology of the 22 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. Indian name, by which is designated this fine range of hills that forms the western wall of the entire county of Berkshire, just fifty miles in length, as well as of its northwesternmost town just a little over eight miles in length. To the euphonious form '^ Taconics " have we finally curtailed and softened down the aboriginal word full of consonants. The archives of Massachusetts give about forty different spellings to this original Mohegan word; nevertheless its derivation and signification are reasonably certain, according to J. Hammond Trumbull of Hartford, the only trustworthy authority in this century for the Mohegan dialects. He says : " There is no interpretation which I can affirm is certainly right: the least objectionable is ' forest ' or ' wilderness,' the Delaware Tachanizen, which Zeisberger translates as 'woody,' 'full of woods,' from Tokone, 'the woods,' literally 'wild land,' 'forest.' A sketch of Shekomeko (Dutchess County, New York) by a Moravian missionary in 1745, shows to the eastward in the distance a mountain summit, recognizable as the Mount Washington group, marked ' ICtakanatshari,^ 'the big moun- tain,' a name which resolves itself into Ket-Tdkone-Wadshu, 'great woody mountain,' that is, great Taconic mountain." So far as these great wooded hills flank the town of Williamstown, they are about 1500 feet above the level of the streams that skirt their base, and there are but four passes leading over them into the valleys beyond ; the range, however, is not by any means a sheer wall on either side, but has its spurs and spines and hollows on its flanks, and peaks and gaps and plateaus on its top. As seen from the valleys, its horizon line is wonderfully varied, curved, and billowy ; as a general thing it is clothed to the very tops with deciduous trees, particularly birch, beech, maple, and chestnut ; and the tints of the spring and autumn foliage on these aspiring, swelling, indefinitely varied summits, invite inspection by so much the more as they cer- tainly do beggar description. Down such a water-shed as this is many streams will flow as a matter of course, and if there be passes over it and roads over them, these will naturally follow up the courses of the streams, — the human road-makers finding that Nature has been before them work- ing out in long ages a path for the footsteps of men. Such a stream is the northerly branch of Hemlock Brook, which takes its rise just over the Massachusetts line, and just south of our Petersburg Pass, and flows down the whole length of Treadwell Hollow to unite at Brookman's with the southerly branch that rises also just over the New York line at the " Berlin Pass," the second of our natural road- ways over the great Taconic wall. Now, as by much the longest SITUATION. 23 stretch of stream under a single designation within the town ; as constituted by these two branches, which descend respectively from these two northern passes, over which all the direct travel from Williamstown goes into the state of New York ; as helping by means of these branches, both of which rise in that great state, to make easy friendly intercourse between the two states, by making passable the lofty barrier that divides them ; and as having many secrets of the hills and of the woods to whisper to its companion stream, Buxton Brook, at their junction in the northwestern quarter of the House Lots, — the Hemlock Brook, though small, is lifted into the region of high respectability. After the junction of its two branches at the foot of Treadwell Hollow, the stream runs southeast- wardly for a mile or more around the " Torrey AVoods," and tlien bends suddenly northward, receiving at this point, as a tributary, the " Sweet Brook," which comes down from the " Kidder Pass," the third of the Taconic gaps, and then flowing due north a couple of miles through the valley of the "Hemlocks," unites with the bicker- ing " Buxton " for another mile of curving flow to find the Hoosac, having described a nearly perfect semicircle in a course of six miles. Thus in a few plain lines has honor due been done to a country brook, which probably was never suntr in DOi'trv. or described before in prose. Treadwell Hollow, down which tumbles, ironi tiie I'ass, the north- ern branch of Hemlock Brook, and up which runs a second rude and steep roadway to the Pass itself, swarmed with people at the end of the last century and at the beginning of this, constituting then a large school district with a schoolhouse of its own ; but after 1850 it became gradually deserted of human habitations, and the last one of the old houses within the valley burned down March 4, 1885, — the inauguration day of President Cleveland. This was the house of Agur Treadwell, who gave his name to the Hollow, and who reared there a large family of daughters, many of whose descendants " are with us unto this day." Abandoned sites of log- huts or cellars of rude houses may still be traced in considerable numbers on both sides of the road almost up to the Gap, while the people and their dwellings for the most part disappeared long ago. At the time the Treadwell house burned down there were left but thr^e dwellings within the valley, and these comparatively modern ones. The Leet house was one, just then sold out of the family with the farm, which was the original sixty-acre lot numl^er 40, the house standing some distance to the west of the road and the stream over a rise of ground; the Brookman family kept watch and 24 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. ward at the entrance of the Hollow from below, cultivating a quite tolerable hillside farm, and illustrating the outward success that almost always keeps step with the forthputting of the moral and Christian virtues ; and between these two, on the opposite side of the road, was one other little homestead, then occupied by an Irish- man named Fleming. Now we come to the fourth and last of our secondary hills that hang on the flank of the Taconics, namely, to "Bee Hill," which has played first and last no insignificant part in the history of Williams- town. All four of these hills are really attached to the main stem by a single shoulder, that one by which the Petersburg road winds up into the Pass. The Glen Brook, which, in its due easterly fall, drains some low and moist lands that slope down from that shoul- der, divides Birch Hill from Bee Hill; and the Hemlock Brook, springing from near the same shoulder, runs completely around the base of Bee Hill on its western and southern and eastern sides to the point at which the Hemlock receives the Glen. Bee Hill is shaped like an old-fashioned sugar-loaf of gigantic size lying on its side, base towards the southeast. Its western slope rises up sheer and lofty from the bottom of Treadwell Hollow ; its southern side is the Torrey Woods skirting the brook lower down, and its eastern acclivity is the " Hemlocks," in which lie the limestone quarries. The original road over Bee Hill started from the Main Street at right angles near its western end, and ran due south along the limit of House Lot number 29 to the bridge over the Glen Brook, whose place has never been substantially changed from its first building, and then crawled over the sugar-loaf just as and where it does now, in the form of a bow, to the entrance of Treadwell Hollow. The first part of this road as far as the Glen Bridge was long ago dis- -continued, and was replaced by the hypothenuse of the right-angled triangle beginning at the Mansion House and running diagonall}^ -across the House Lots to John Sherman's, and thence to the bridge. This comparatively new road to the Glen Bridge from the Main ■Street may well be called the " Glen Road." Though a belt of lime- stone edges the eastern base of Bee Hill, the hill as a whole is a slaty formation, and holds accordingly much warm and fertile land, that is easily tilled and constantly renewed ; and on this account it was occupied early by a set of enterprising farmers, and in particu- lar by the Hickox family, who have owned and tilled first and last most of the arable land of the hill, so that it is every way appropri- ate that its highest eminence, directly overlooking Treadwell Hol- low, and conspicuously seen from every part of the village by those SITUATION. 25 looking up through the Glen, should be now christened and hereafter known as '• Hickox Height." That sightly point was long owned by the family, and if an enterprise had prospered which they conceived and set on foot and partly carried out, they would have deserved still more a lasting memorial on Bee Hill, — one as lasting as the hills themselves ; for at the time when their neighbors of Birch Hill and others were i)ushing the present Petersburg road towards the Pass, the Bee Hill people stoutly claimed that a nearer and better road to the same place could be wound around their hill upon the east side of Treadwell Hollow ; and so they set to work with a will to make such a way, and to get it through to the common shoulder first; and one can trace to this day about lialf-way up the slope the track of their road, unfinished because one of the rude land-owners beyond them forbade the use of his land for that purpose. The consequent delay gave the Birch Hill fellows the victory in point of time, which was virtually the point of victory in the whole mat- ter. Agur Treadwell permitted them to cross his lot, but Amos Birchard put up the bars. At Birchard's boundary, accordingly, all traces of that road begun fade out upon the hillside. Henry Hickox, then an octogenarian, related these facts to the writer many years ago, and added that he himself had rendered a small boy's help to this worthy but futile endeavor of the family. The Bee Hill road, already described as reaching to the entrance of Treadwell Hollow, became in 1799 a part of a public Turnpike, connected in North Adams with another Turnpike chartered by the state two years before to run over the Hoosac Mountain to the Deerfield Kiver, making one continuous road ; so that it became necessary at that time to repair and in some parts to rebuild an old road running up the south branch of the Hemlock Brook from the point where it unites with the Treadwell Hollow Brook to the second of the great passes over tlie Taconics ; namely, to the " Berlin Pass," long so-called from the name of the New York township on the other side of the barrier. Under Massachusetts authority, accord- ingly, the turnpike was completed to the line of New York, and was then carried forward under the auspices of that state up to and over the Gap and down into the valley of the Little Hoosac, and the toll-gate was located at a house only a few rods this side the line on the " Gore," which was then indeed a part of Massachusetts, and forty years later was annexed to Williamstown. This last stretch of the old turnpike from the forks of the brook, which we always call the "Berlin Road," though it is continuous with the Bee Hill road, and also with the " Hemlock Road " from John Sher- 26 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. man's up Hemlock Brook to the forks, runs almost due west and pretty steadily up hill past three farms, each of which has an inter- esting history, for one mile and a half in Massachusetts and fully another mile in New York to the Berlin Pass. On the right hand as one trudges up this road there rises a lofty conical hill, beautiful in outline, around whose base the road winds from the point where the New York line is crossed to the spring of water at the foot of the last ascent leading up to the Pass. This almost mathematically symmetrical hill as seen from a distance is in fair continuation of the much larger Leet Hill, the two together filling up the whole space between the two passes, with the Leet 4. Mount Hopkins. 'BERLIN PASS. 2. Dodd's Cone. 3. Leet Hill. farm nestling between the two hills. Among all the varied summits of the Taconics in this part of their range this particular cone is unique ; and it has been known for some time to a narrow circle of friends, and the present writer strongly desires that it may be known for all time in the widest manner, as " Dodd's Cone " ; in perpetual recognition of Cyrus Morris Dodd of the class of 1855, long Profes- sor of Mathematics in the College, a man of exact knowledge, ele- gant taste, perfect temper, Christian patience, thorough kindness of heart, and a genuine courtesy of mien consequent upon that. As a long-time colleague watching his fidelity to duty, as a trustful friend seeing him victor in recurring adversities, the writer pays with heartfelt pleasure this little tribute which may perhaps be remem- bered when both are dead. There have been times when a tin cup might be seen hanging to a stake set by public authority or private benevolence near the little SITUATION. 27 spring that bubbles up at the base of the hist lift before the Pass is reached. Foot-travellers and others usually refreshed themselves here often in ways more primitive and perhaps more satisfactory than drinking from the public cup. Even a leisurely walker will pass in ten minutes from this point to the desired summit, which is 2192 feet above tide-water. The resemblance to a saddle is not so marked in this mountain depression as in the more northern one, although the land on both sides the road, and on both acclivities for a consid- erable distance, is completely bare of trees and is smooth and culti- vable meadow or pasture. Open and ploughable ground to the north rises gradually up in the rear of Dodd's Cone, but there is no knob in it comparable to a pommel ; and similar land slopes up from the road on the south towards Mount Hopkins, but there is no arch in it at the right distance which the fancy can frame into a cantel But the Pass is a grand and noble spot on this old earth. The scene to the westward and southward is broader and lovelier than at Peters- burg ; cultivated fields and patches of orchard and wooded hilltops and pastures dotted with grazing cattle fill the nearer view in sum- mer time ; in contrast with the green fields and green M'oods, the country roads shimmer and glisten like long strips of white rib- bands ; with the sun at the proper angle in the western sky, the brooks dancing from their uplands towards the central valley gleam and shine at intervals like ribs of molten silver ; and the observer fortunate in the time of his visit may say of these quiet homesteads and long reaches of sleeping and beautiful landscape, as Whittier said of his lower years when the height of his life was reached, how these — Now lie below me green and still Beneath a level sun ! Two or three other characteristic differences between the Berlin and Petersburg passes will put us into still better possession of the peculiarities of the former. Thus the northern one is exactly in the line of the highest peaks of the Taconics, along its own part of the ridge both north and south ; while the southern one is out of range with its nearest summits, being decidedly west and back of these as one approaches from "William stown. Moreover, Petersburg is half and half between the two states, the line crossing the very ridge of the Pass ; while Berlin is wholly in Xew York, a full mile west of the line. Then two passable roads converge at the former gap, the onp running up Treadwell Hollow, also the usual Petersburg road creeping along the shoulder of the foot-hills ; while there is but one road can take the passenger up to and over the Berlin Pass. 28 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. Also the access to Petersburg, whichever road be chosen, is through woods and waste lands and past uncovered cellars and signs of deso- lation and abandonment ; but the Berlin road goes past pretty good farms on either hand, and the last one (the old toll-gate farm) became noted for its productiveness under the ownership of Alexan- der Walker and the industry of his family, canny Scotch people from Aberdeenshire : the parents married there Aug. 1, 1856. Mr. Walker could handle the fiddle-bow and the surveyor's instruments with about equal facility ; but as the lines fell to him in this coun- try in prosy times and non-piping localities, the Scotch reels and strathspeys, of which he was a master and even a successful com- poser and publisher, slumbered for the most part upon the bridge of his fiddles, of which he invented and perhaps patented a prized improvement. Nevertheless, his residence at the head of the gorge, where the Fosters had lived for three generations, threw a sort of halo of music and good cheer up and down the valley, and proved to many persons a kind of subtle attraction not only for the Pass, but also for Mount Hopkins beyond it. Even the New York land to the very top of the gap has seen its days of fertility; for Enos Briggs, whose well-walled cellar is still conspicuous on the left of the road above the spring, was so successful in the culture of turnips on that side hill during the first two decades of this century, that he long went by the name of "Turnip Briggs " ; and persons were still living in Williamstown in 1885 who remembered clearly seeing this hum- ble vender of vegetables sell his savory wares along the single vil- lage street. It is but fair to add, that the ashes of the heavy hard woods burned on the clearings gave a quickness and strength to that soil for a time, of which it was long since deprived. And lastly, no wagon road leads from the Petersburg Pass either north or south, though there is a foot-path running north to the Snow- Hole ; but from the Berlin Pass a comparatively well-trodden road for common vehicles turns off to the left towards a notable and so frequented objective which will shortly engage our attention for a little. In the meantime let us take our last look from the Gap itself. To the eastward and over the entire valley of the Green Hiver stands in almost startling distinctness the whole range of Greylock, or " Sad- dle Mountain," as it has long been, and is also best, named. We are indeed on ground 1343 feet lower than the highest peak of that range, which is properly called " Greylock," and 411 feet lower than the summit point of Bald Mountain, and also 405 feet below the centre peak of Prospect, and yet all that is most worth the seeing in SITUATION. 29 remarkably isolated group that holds the highest mountain iu Massachusetts is quite under our eye from the Hoosac Kiver to Pontoosuc Lake. Saddle Mountain may well be compared to a human left lung with its three distinct lobes. If one will conceive of such a lung magnified to mountain size, and lying lengthwise to the observer with the due depressions between the lobes, and the top of each of these puckered up into peaks at the proper points, and that one of the lobes nearest the beholder pai-ted in the middle in such a way as to display the central and highest lobe from top to bottom through the cleft, he will have before his mind's eye a fair image of Saddle Mountain as it appears from Berlin Pass and as it is in reality. ;^-wU-,- ii ■THE HOPPER.' FROM BERLIN PASS. 1. Greylock. 4. Mount Moore. 7. Bald Mountain. 2. Mount Williams. 5. Mount Griffin. 8. Simonds Peak. 3. Mount Fitch. 6. Slope Norton. 9. Mount Chadbourne. The western lobe of this huge mass of correlated mountain is cut into two parts by the "Hopper" so-called, a sharp-cut opening through the middle of it down to the base of Greylock itself, which is the majestic crown of tlie second and central lobe, so that as seen through the Hopper there is displayed to the on-looker from the Taconics the imperial western front of Greylock from very bottom to very top. The northern half of this first lobe thus bisected in some great convulsion of Nature is "Prospect" proper; and from the Hopper Brook that bathes the foot of both the halves, the jagged past- ure and forest land shoots up at an angle of thirty-three degrees into "Simonds Peak," 2600 feet above tide-water more or less. Simonds Peak is clearly seen from several of the prominent streets of Pitts- 30 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. field, and indeed it was named thus in commemoration of our Revolu- tionary colonel by the gifted historian of that town, Dr. Smith. From this its highest point, Mount Prospect declines towards the north at a pretty steady angle for a mile or more, and then falls sharply off into the so-called " Slope Norton," which carries the hill down gradually to that intervale of the Hoosac on which stood old Fort Massachusetts. " Bald Mountain " heads the southern half of the western lobe, and lifts itself up from the Hopper Brook quite as steeply, though not quite so high, as its fellow-mount across the gorge ; but the rest of this part is not quite parallel with the central lobe, and is not in strict continuation therefore of Mount Prospect, but bends decidedly towards the west, and after a long and compara- tively low depression from the summit of Bald Mountain, it rises gracefully again and ends grandly, though not loftily, in "Mount Chadbourne." The writer ventures to apply this name to the beauti- fully rounded and wooded height that terminates the western lobe of Saddle Mountain, in future memory of the fifth president of Williams College, with whom, as colleague, professor, and president, he was intimately associated for thirty years. Chadbourne loved the hills and the trees and the rocks and the flowers. He knew every nook and corner of this fair town. Ko species of plant, no form of animal life, no geological peculiarity, escaped his eye. Ko name has ever before been given to this bluff and full yet human and tender height. Shall we, then, friends living and to come, call it once and for all Mount Chadbourne ? It must not be inferred from what has just been said, that at all times one can have a clear vision through the Hopper to the base of Greylock, even from such an elevated lookout as the Berlin Pass. Sometimes the Avhite clouds fill up the opening from top to bottom, cover Bald and Simonds with a fleecy mantle that never felt the loom, rise and wholly envelop old Greylock himself, or hang like Burns' s " haffets " on either side of his hoary head, as the name implies, then float along in rolls and folds (as they did this morning), rising and falling, tarrying and hesitating, concealing and then reveal- ing all the peaks of the group, and at last ascend from their transient resting-places between the lobes and from along the slopes and tops into the sunny or starry sky. After such a morning it often happens that the atmosphere becomes the most transparent, the vision into the Hopper the most penetrating, and the grand outline of the mountain the sharpest against the opposing sky. Sometimes, again, the summer shower-clouds and the wilder storm-clouds of rain, or snow, or hail pack the Hopper to its fullest capacity, and press down SITUATION. 31 into the shallow valleys between the lobes, and burden the broad mountain tops, till, like an over-cargo filling a ship's hold, and spread upon the deck also, they seem to sink the mountain to the water's edge I Oftener than appear these cloud and storm effects, however, and especially in the gala months of June and October, such a clear and blessed light is thrown into this hollow of hollows (one might almost write holy of holies) that it seems as if the trees and even the limbs might be counted one by one as they clothe the steep hill- side; and when the early frosts have painted the leaves of the deciduous trees in every color of the rainbow, and the evergreens scattered everywhere among them set off by way of contrast the gorgeous colors, to look in upon the three sides of the great Hopper from the west, each vying with the other two in splendor, or to look down upon them all at once from the summit of Bald or of Simonds, is such a sight that its impression never fades out from the mind of any lover of natural beauty, and no one seeing it ever expects to see it surpassed this side of the new Jerusalem. But our footing at the Gap is exalted enough to overlook alto- gether the first parallel of Saddle Mountain, and to enable us to see something of the broad shoulders and shallow valleys (disjointed by the Hopper) connecting that line with the second and loftier one, and also visually to take in from end to end the middle lobe of our Titanic lung. It is at least five miles as the bird flies from Mount Williams, the northern height of this central battlement, to the point of "Mount Griffin," its southern height. The eye first takes in the meadow on which Fort Massachusetts once stood; runs up Slope Hawks, which connects the site of the fort with Mount Wil- liams, itself a magnificent protuberance of mountain, dominating the valley of the Hoosac, and the rampart on one side of the '• Ther- mopylae of New England," as that valley was once called by Edward Everett ; glances on to " Mount Fitch," the next and only high peak of that ridge to the north of Greylock, receiving its appropriate name many years ago from the Hopkins Alpine Club in memory of the first president of the College ; rests then for a little on the tow- ering point of Greylock, an immemorial name; then drops some- what to an even stretch of mountain ridge, only broken by two slight swells close together with a little rift between them, which we have called " Mount Moore," to commemorate the second presi- dent of the College ; and at last rests to return on the southmost point of the central ridge, which drops off very sharply into the foot-hills encircling Pontoosuc Lake, and which has been named Mount Griflin, in perpetual honor of the third president of the Col- 32 ORIGINS IN WILLI AMSTOWN. lege. As fronting the Taconics, old Greylock is grandly flanked on the right by Fitch and AVilliams ; on the left by Moore and Grifiin ; and in his front are Simonds, Bald, and Chadbourne. Fitch and Moore are nearly eqni-distant from Greylock on either hand, and so again are Williams and Griffin nearly equi-distant from the other two on either hand, and from Greylock itself. President Moore, as we may perhaps learn at length on a future page, was doubtful whether the College could ever flourish in so inaccessible a place as William stown then was ; and his thoughts wavered during the six years he was here, between the valley of the Connecticut and the valley of the Hoosac as the true position for the College ; and he at last went to Amherst to become the flrst president there, and took a large portion of the students with him ; for which reasons his por- trait is not with the rest in the gallery of this college, and his name has been rarely mentioned of late years in connection with its his- tory ; but it is certain that he was actuated by honorable motives in those transactions from first to last, and his name deserves respect- ful recognition in the memorials of this college, and so far as the present writer can secure that result, it will rest for all time upon the not inconspicuous twin peaks already designated ; and any one's fancy may play, if it will, between the two neighboring peaks as outward tokens of the mind of good Dr. Moore wavering between Berkshire and Hampshire. "Wilbur's Pasture" is the mountain farm, though there were never homestead buildings upon it, which occupies the shoulder uniting Prospect with Mount Williams, in short, the seat of the saddle that gave the entire mountain its name to those who trav- elled up and down the Hoosac by the old path of the Mohawks. " Harrison's Farm," on the other hand, which had upon it a good house and a large barn, and was very fertile in the early days, is the uniting shoulder and valley between Bald Mountain and Grey- lock; and rude and early wagon roads, that are still travelled in summer-time more or less, led from some of the thoroughfares of Williamstown to these sky farms. The first circled around Mount Williams from the " Notch Road," so called, into Wilbur's Pasture, and the other, starting from the west side of the mountain, wound through the Hopper and up Bald Mountain to Harrison's Farm ; and these immense pastures and the woods bordering on them fill up for the most part the interval between the first and second lines of the mountain, and each furnished a route to the summit of Grey- lock, but only sinewy pedestrians or audacious horseback riders essayed this final stage of the journey. SITUATION. 33 This casual mention of the •• Notch Road '' may serve to introduce that needs now be said about the third lobe of Saddle Mountain. This is the eastern parallel of the mountain, is much lower than either of the others, has been called from immemorial time '* Raven Rock " ; the Ashuwillticook or south brancli of the Hoosac washes the whole length of its eastern flank ; the valley between it and the Greylock ridge is wider and more cultivable than the shoulder valleys on the other side, and it extends considerably further north than the other ridges. Indeed, it dips down in " Furnace Hill " to the very brink of the Hoosac at the junction of the Ashuwillticook and the Mayunsook. It is over this ridge that the sun rises in winter to the folks in the village of Williamstown, its height being such as to hide from them the much higher range of tlie Hoosacs ; it also hides from the same the houses of their neighbors in North Adams ; and the " Little Tunnel " of the great Hoosac Tunnel Rail- way passes under it just as it loses itself on the river's brink. The valley between Raven Rock and Greylock is the " Notch," and the southern end of it, of remarkable construction, is the '' Bellows- Pipe." It lies wholly in the old township of East Hoosac; the farms within it were early settled ; the Wilburs, by whom the past- ure above was owned and cleared, and from whom it is named, were perhaps the principal family in the Notch ; and the graphic fitness of the name " Bellows-Pipe " will be seen when it is said, that the northern winds and storms sucked and pushed through the long and narrow Notch escape from it with a bound and a burst and a howl over the rising shoulder at the southern end (seeking in vain to confine them) into the broad open beyond. Our visual excursions from the Berlin Pass are now over. It only remains, from this Pass as a standpoint, because the rude road diverges here that leads up to "Mount Hopkins," to give some account of this loftiest bulge of the Taconics within sight of the town and the college, to unfold the grounds on which it has been sought for many years to attach an honored name to this particular mountain, and to commend in fair but strong terms to all lovers of natural scenery (both transient and resident) repeated visits to this chief glory of the Taconics — this never-humbled pride of the Williamstown valley — before they leave the region for good, or suppose that they have seen all of its wonders. Because this Pass is a mile back from the general trend of the Taconics in this part of*their course, the road leading from it to Mount Hopkins must regain that distance to the eastward before this summit is gained, which stands about in line with Dodd's Cone and Leet Hill. Only 34 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. stopping now to fling out an exhortation or two to the authorities that are to be in the future to construct a good road from the Pass to the summit, and just to say that the present bridle-path turns first south and then sharp southeast and east for the mile and a half between the points, we may find ourselves shortly upon a broad patch of cleared land nearly level, that has often felt the plough and the harrow and the hoe, and doubtless yielded full returns to the husbandman's toil and sweat, and that is 2790 feet above the sea-level, and 2082 feet above the old astronomical observatory on the College grounds. About the beginning of the present century, a man by the name of Macomber owned and cleared up this land, and had his dwelling and barn upon it, and used to carry down upon his back a bag of grain now and then to a mill on the Little Hoosac, in or near what is now the village of Berlin, New York. The mountain came thence to be known as the " Macomber " Mountain, and was com- monly so designated in Williamstown during the first quarter of the century. If this name had become firmly fixed to the moun- tain on both sides of it, the present writer would have been the last man in the world to try to dislodge it, for he not only believes that civilization rests on the plough, but also that no other man's name is so fit to be fixed on any patch of ground anywhere as his, who has subdued and replenished it. But Macomber was not so fortu- nate as this. Gradually on the other side it came to be called the "Williamstown" Mountain, and on this side (queerly enough) it came to be generally named the " Berlin" Mountain, neither of which names had any significance or appropriateness ; and under these cir- cumstances, to christen the height became a lawful privilege to any one who could establish a claim to be godfather, either in his own behalf, or in that of another. The turnpike over the Pass made the place accessible from both sides ; Macomber had a sort of farm road from the turnpike to his homestead ; doubtless a few students may have clambered up there from time to time, but it was not the custom in the early days of the College, as it has happily become since, for the students to explore all the hills and to dive into all the valleys, — a pilgrimage or two to Greylock quite sufficed the average student for his college course; and so it came about that Harry Hopkins, the president's eldest son, who was graduated in 1858, and who became a fearless and efficient chaplain in the Union army during the Civil War, discovered, or rather rediscovered, this splendid outlook for west and south and north and east. He experi- enced the joy of having found something new, something at least SITUATION. 35 practically unknown in his own time. He went there often him- self, and also took his friends thither. Among others he took up his uncle, Albert Hopkins. The veteran naturalist was delighted. He, too, began to frequent the place in his leisure hours. He even extemporized an observatory there to broaden, or rather to deepen, the view to the east ; but the unchecked winds dealt roughly with the structure, as with so many others of similar character in the neighborhood. But let the good man himself describe a little, and |)ropose a little in his own words. One peculiarity in the Taconic range is the spurs which it sends out. Look at the Hoosac range, east of Adams ; how uniform it is. On the other hand, let one ride from Williamstown to Hancock, and notice the mountains on his right. He is continually passing buttresses or spurs, which push their roots out almost to the highway. Between these he sees valleys, or perhaps they ought to be called gorges or ravines, pushing their way far in toward the back- bone of the chain. From a foot-path south of the Berlin summit, you will emerge into an open place, where you will for a time forget that there is anything higher or finer to be sought. At this point you have the full effect of these spurs which you will now perceive are an appendage of the west as well as of the east flank of the mountain, and which appear (to use rather a vulgar comparison) like hogs' backs. The effect of these sub-chains as seen from the point I am now speaking of, is heightened by the fact that they jut out nearly at right angles to the general trend of the mountain on whose crest we are walking. Nature does not often deal in right angles. Hence we are more struck by an appearance of geometrical precision when we observe it in the grouping of nat- ural objects. Having inserted our gimlet into a dead beech, and swung our barometer with its basin as nearly as possible on a level with the summit, we walked here and there to get the views. The Katskills could certainly be seen ; though I had great difficulty in convincing my friend, Dr. N. H. Griffin, of the fact. He would still insist that the "faint pencillings" on the sky, which I pointed out to him as terra finna^ lay in cloud land. To me they were masses, lofty, grand, substantial ; to him they were like the " baseless fabric of a dream," a mirage, which some change in the atmosphere would melt up, or some gust of wind would topple over. One thing we saw whicli was remark- able. It was a very bright light, evidently beyond the Hud.son, which occasion- ally flashed up and then disappeared. My explanation of it (perhaps incorrect) was this : the sky being partly overcast, the sun's rays fell at intervals on the roof of some glass structure, some greenhouse, perhaps, between Troy and Albany, and hence this alternating light. I cannot enter into particulars ; but will say in general that the view from this point more nearly resembles that from Greylock than any other in the neighborhood. It was first brought into notice by Chaplain Hopkins, with whose name I should like to see it associated. The matter of names, however, is rather a delicate and difficult one. When we reached the usual summit crossing on our return, I told my friend to clap down and look at the landscape backward with his head inverted. The experi- ment seemed new to him, and I introduce it here because, though really an old 36 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. experiment, as old at least as the days of my grandfather [Curtis], who taught it to me on Sky Lot [in Stockb ridge], yet the philosophy of it, I mean of the effect, I have never seen fully explained ; and am in doubt whether it is a ques- tion for the professors in optical science or physiology to explain. However much Chaplain Hopkins may have been pleased with this pleasant token of his uncle's good-will, he was too modest and too meritorious a man not to see at once that, if the name "Hop- kins " were to be permanently affixed to the mountain, it must be on the ground of the merits of men older and greater and more con- spicuous than himself. And there were two such men at hand bearing the name, who had spent long and useful and far-out-reach- ing lives under the shadow of the mountain, — his uncle and his father. The former, the first • proposer of the name in behalf of another, was on the whole himself the most worthy to have his worth perpetuated till the end of time in the name of one of those " everlasting hills," to which he Avas so fond of referring in talk and sermon. He was an intense lover of iSTature, a more intense and devoted lover of mankind, and a most intense and consecrated lover of God. But why not have the name of the mountain commemorate for all time his brother also, and his nephew too, as he himself originally proposed ? For fifty years Mark Hopkins was the pride and the pillar of the College ; for forty years Albert Ho2:)kins was in holy charge of the Ark of God both in the College and the town ; and for many years Harry Hopkins was a Christian frontiersman in the valley of the Missouri, an efficient organizer and father of new churches, a bishop indeed within that fold and form of Christianity whose boast it was and is to be "a church without a bishop and a state without a king." He carried Williams- town ideas and Williams College influences into the great valley of the continent in its germinating time, and scattered them there widely and wisely. To any one approaching the Taconics from the eastward, or look- ing at them from any eminence on that side, there are twin peaks on this particular swell, of which the northern one is indeed the highest as measured by the barometer, but the other one appears as high from many points as measured by the eye. It is, however, one mountain, one Mount Hopkins, with two predominating points, one for each of two brothers, par nohile fratrum, of whom it is diffi- cult to say which were the greater, so different were they in their temperament and in the tenor of their lives. And between these mountain peaks, as always in such cases, there is a connecting link, part valley and part shoulder, all one mountain still ; and so, why SITUATION. 37 may not this lower height, this link touching each and uniting both, be a fit symbol of the younger and less gifted, yet not less loving man, who reached his full hand and great heart to his bereaved uncle when the latter's only son fell in battle for his country, with- out withdrawing one tittle of lilialness as the first-born son of his own father? So let it be. One mountain, one name, three persons, one family, no desigmited part to commemorate any particular one, an earthly trinity in unity, locally fixed and bound to endure. It happened that the writer was travelling a few days ago in Washington County, New York, and was facing over what is called ^' Oak Hill " on the old stage road between Albany and Whitehall, a few miles north of Tyashoke on the Hoosac, and so was enabled to gain a fair view of the northern Taconics in general and of Mount Hopkins in particular from distant and elevated points to the north- west. The truth is, the people in the Williamstown valley are too near the Taconics to be able to appreciate fully their height and their beauty and their wonderful variety. To see them on their New York side and from twenty miles away is to get a new impres- sion of, and feel a higher respect for, this mountain barrier, that has divided in the minds of men since 1664 the old Province of the Massachusetts Bay and the still older Province of New Netherland. The same remark may be made, and with still greater emphasis, of Saddle Mountain with all its lobes and peaks. Here, too, in a cer- tain sense "distance lends enchantment to the view." The high road over the Oak Hill of Washington County, at whose base flows the old Dutch stream of Owl Kill, up whose sluggish current lay the weary march in 1746 of the captives of Fort Massachusetts towards Canada, also gives clear and splendid views of Greylock and Williams and Fitch and Bald and Simonds, as well as of the whole mass together and of the huge cleft in its western side. Moreover, Mason\s Hill, in Pownal, and Mount Anthony, in Benning- ton, offer superb views of Saddle Mountain from the north. The old " Indian Path " over the Hoosacs, and the turnpike that crossed and recrossed that, hold out grand points of view from the east ; and there are hills in Rowe and Windsor and Ashfield, and doubtless many other towns in Berkshire and Franklin counties that are bold enough to overlook the Hoosacs sufficientl}' to present to a good eye Greylock certainly, and less distinctly its neighbor peaks on either hand. Since the eastern and southeastern foot of Mount Hopkins broadens down into some tolerably level land, on which a part of the original second division of fifty-acre lots was laid out; and 38 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. since John and William Torrey, brothers, from Middletown, Connecti- cut, settled on some of these lands about 1766, and numbers of their descendants have been living ever since upon the same and neigh- boring farms, we will venture to call this strip of land the " Torrey Plateau," because this was from the first a family of marked char- acteristics, and deserved to have, as will fully appear on later pages, their name commemorated locally in the section of the town which their toil helped to clear of its primeval forest. When the Presi- dent's house, that had been formerly occupied by the Whitmans, was being repaired for the residence of Dr. Carter, in 1881, a bit of time-stained paper was found in the rubbish, with many other similar ones of like purport signed by other parties, inscribed as follows : WiLLIAMSTOWN Aug 20 1803 Mr Whitman Sir please to send me by the Bearer two Quarts of your Best rum and charge the same to me and in so doing you will Oblige your friend and humble Servant John Torrey Jr This John Torrey was born Dec. 11, 1774, on the Torrey Plateau. The handwriting was fair, and the spelling was good, but there wa& an entire absence of punctuation-marks, probably because he was in a hurry for his beverage ! The next loop of the Taconics south of Mount Hopkins is " Mc- Master Mountain" ; and the Pass that divides the two, and furnishes a way for the third road over the barrier and into the state of New York, has now been called for sundry years the " Kidder Pass." The two earliest settlers in the southwest of Williamstown were E-obert McMaster and Moses Rich, both from Palmer or its immediate neighborhood, and both taking up their lots near each other, in the spring of 1763, on the brook which flows down this Pass in two branches, uniting just on the original west line of Williamstown. The Pass itself, and the road leading up to it between these two branches, and the mountain to the south of it, were all on the '• Gore," so called ; and there were several men living in Williams- town 123 years after McMaster and Rich built their first houses on the brook below, who remembered that in their boyhood this whole hollow, and the mountain to the left of it, was called "Mac's Pattin." Among those still living who remember that designation are James Smedley, Eaton Johnson, and B. P. Mills. What the word "pattin" meant, nobody seemed to know or care. That is the way the boys heard it, and so the old men pronounce it. One thing makes it all clear : All the town lots were deeded in the ordinary SITUATION. 39 way; but this land was on the Gore, and so belonged to the Com- monwealth ; and the instrument conveying rights of possession was called a '-patent," as proceeding from the sovereign authority. McMaster was an enterprising farmer, as became a Scotch-Irish Presbyterian, and added to his home lot lying in Williamstown a huge patch of mountain land that had belonged to the state ; and his name has thus been perpetuated in connection with that pur- chase. "McMaster Mountain," accordingly, is well designated; and we leave it to our readers to affix the name beyond all possi- bility of change. This *• pattin " brook, after an easterly course of two miles and a sudden lurch to the north, falls into the Hemlock Brook just as that, too, takes its final bend northwards. This junction of the two brooks is right at the corner of the " Torrey Woods," as these are entered from the Hemlock road. There was a road very early laid out to " convean" the fifty-acre lots of the second division, which ran due west in continuation of the Green River road, when that abandoned the stream at some distance above the "Krigger Mills " and passed over Stone Hill, crossing the old county road at right angles and forming ''Woodcock's Corner," so called, and then dropped down into the valley of this brook and up the stream towards the Pass. Most of the way the present road follows this old line into the northern end of " Oblong Road," so called, while the Kidder Pass road, now but little travelled, is a much later extension, continuing the old road over the Taconics and down into the village of Berlin, New York. The best house along this old road was built in 1804 by a family of the name of " Sweet," and it was long occupied by them, but towards the end of the century was long owned and lived in by Dan Phelps. The name of the proprietor, through whose farm the brook flowed, became gradually and properly attached to the brook itself, and so it is and always will be called the " Sweet Brook." McMaster early opened a farm road up between the two little branches of Sweet Brook into his patent on the Gore. In process of time, two or three small and rude farms worked themselves out of the forest into the light upon the side hills along these brooklets. Although the cellar of the homestead, one of the most indestructible memorials of human habitation in such places, is still visible enough, the lowest of these farms was long ago abandoned to a forlorn past- ure ; but the upper one, near the summit of the Pass, is still more or less cultivated, and, indeed, has been divided into two, and two poor houses, or rather shanties, one on either side of the road, send 40 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. up from time to time their smoke into the sky. George Kidder and his wife, after whom the Pass is named, lived in one of these shan- ties forty years and more. She was the widow of James Eichards, who died here in a January when the Pass was terribly drifted, and lies buried near the shanty beneath an unlettered headstone. Shall we give a moment here to the short and simple annals of the poor ? George Kidder, a native of Townsend, a carriage painter by trade, found his way to Troy, New York ; he had lost his wife, and having a bad felon on his finger, and supposing he had lost the use of his hand, wandered rather than went to the village of Berlin ; and com- ing over the Pass one day, he found Mrs. Eichards trying to gather in her corn all alone ; he took hold and helped her what he could I. Martin's Mount. "JOHNSON PASS 2. Connstock Heights. KIDDER PASS. 3. Mount Mills. 4. McMaster Mountain. *'with the gleanings," as he said; he got dirt into his sore, she washed it out and dressed it; "she told me she had this little place, — some debt on it then, — we paid it up, and we've lived here ever since." Kidder was three years in the late war as a private soldier in the 37th Massachusetts, Colonel Eichards, was ruptured in the service, wore a truss ever after, " never got any pension, — if Dr. Duncan had lived, he would have helped me get it." The Kidders had no children, but they adopted and brought up a boy, Albert Brooks, to whom, when he married, they gave twenty acres of poor land near their own place, and he built a shanty there for himself. " Two children and well on for another," Kidder once told the writer, in reference to the new family. " Albert is working now on t'other side the mountain, getting out ash for Wood's mowers and reapers at Hoosac Palls. The oldest boy used to come over SITUATION. 41 here last summer a good deal, — I sot tC'-ijUKtcj un imn." An amus- ing incident is well authenticated in connection with the marriage of Albert Brooks : he brought his girl to a minister here in the vil- lage, of a Sunday evening, and paid him one dollar for performing the ceremony ; a shower having sprung up, he borrowed, to protect his bride, an umbrella that had just cost two dollars: the umbrella was not returned, which may be said to have made the whole ser- vice unprofitable to the minister in a pecuniary point of view. To portray the Kidders truthfully, it must be added, that the husband became increasingly intemperate after the w^ar ; and the last time the writer saw the pair together, he was lying on the bank of the Sweet Brook, nearly insensible, while the faithful wife sat in the shade of a neighboring tree, waiting till he should recover enough to climb with her the steep and rough path to their home. As the Gore was annexed to Williamstown in 1837, and as the summit of this Pass is within the west line of the Gore, while the summits of the other three are all in a neighboring state, we may perhaps claim the "Kidder" as a peculiar possession of our own, and justify the long digression over its name. It is also noteworthy as being in a special sense face to face with Greylock, which is here disclosed through the Hopper from its high crown to its broad roots ; and there are those who think that the very best views of the valley and the range are to be gathered from this lofty and tor- tuous path ; and it is certain that no one has ever seen either to its absolute perfection who has not climbed on foot or horseback to this particular spot, and turned, as he rested a little from stage to stage, to take long and wide glances backward. One more touch, and we leave the Taconics as a range, to return to them not again in further description. The last of the four passes in Williamstown, and about like the others in height, follows up a little brook between the southern end of McMaster Mountain and the next main loop of the Taconics, of which the high northern face is named " Mount Mills." The Pass itself has long been called the "Johnson Pass," in commemoration of Lieutenant David John- son, of whom we shall hear a good deal in the sequel, a man of note among the early settlers, whose farm and home lay at the foot of the Pass, and who helped to construct the rude road over it (still travelled somewhat) in 1813. The farm adjoining Johnson's was at th^t time owned by Charles Sabin, son of Lieutenant Zebediah Sabin, who was a comrade of Johnson's in Arnold's famous expedi- tion up the Kennebec in 1775, and who lost his life upon that expe- dition ; and the farm adjoining Sabin's on the Oblong road, and also 42 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. adjoining on the north Lieutenant Sabin's farm, then occupied by his grandsons, was owned by Captain Samuel Mills. These three men. Mills and Johnson and Sabin, were the prime movers in the building on this side of the road up tlie hollow and over the water- shed ; and some of the enterprising farmers of Berlin did their share of the work at the same time by building the road from that village up the New York slope to the summit. In fact, all the roads over the three southern passes enter that village, as the road over the northern Pass enters the village of Petersburg. It throws a clear and pleasant light on the state of things in this region at that time, that one motive on both sides for building the road over the Johnson Pass was to accommodate Dr. Samuel Porter, who lived then on Stone Hill, a famous doctor and bonesetter of his day, who had patients in a wide circuit of country. So far as Captain Mills was concerned, it was another ground of interest in the road, that it opened up a large tract of land belonging to him (and still owned by his grandson), out of which he had already developed a sort of mountain farm, which after his death, in March, 1814, was carried on for many years by Walter Converse, who had previously been an inmate of his family. The barn is still standing in the hollow ; and the cellar wall of the house close by the road, the only house ever built in that mountain valley, serves to remind the passer-by that life and love, parents and children, seed-time and harvest, at one time relieved the otherwise utter desolateness of those steep slopes and dismal woods. Olive Converse, afterwards the wife of Justin Torrey, was born in that house ; and Harriet Converse, later the wife of Myron Torrey, spent the first dozen years of her life there, except a few months of its opening; and she told the writer in 1885, that their nearest neighbors on the one hand Avere the Comstocks, who lived in the last house in Williamstown on the Hancock road, and on the other hand, Henry Green's family, who lived in a deep gorge of McMaster Mountain, corresponding in many respects to their own. The farm lay wholly on the Gore, and the family made special arrangements for the schooling of the children in the Sherwood district in Williamstown proper. Prom the summit of the Johnson Pass, of which a wide strip Avas long ago completely cleared of woods to feed the capacious maw of a charcoal kiln whose foundations still crown the highest point, any one may see distinctly and grandly, looking to the north, the much higher and smoother and more rounded Berlin Pass, with its neigh- bors, Dodd's Cone and Leet Hill, overtopping it as perpetual senti- nels. Much nearer by may be seen the place where the Kidder I SITUATION. 48 Pass also overcomes the range ; but that road, both on the summit and on the sunset slope, is concealed from this point of observation by thick woods. The Johnson top is considerably further west than the Kidder, and a little further west than the Berlin, and gives, of course, no such broad views in any direction as does the latter ; for this is comparatively a humble Pass, and commemorates as its pro- moters and the users of its road comj)aratively humble men, though Johnson and [Mills and Sabin were all brave soldiers on the right side in the battle of Bennington, and on other fields besides of patri- otic fight. The finely arched northern brow of the mountain to the south of the Pass, which is in plain sight from the colleges and from most of the lifting points within the valley of Williamstown, we desire to have called in perpetuity " Blount Mills,** because it over- looks the good captain's valley-farm now deserted, and the entire road on either slope on which he and his neighbors wrought for the public good and their own. The late Dr. Henry L. Sabin, who died in February, 1884, aged fourscore years and three, once told the writer that he himself, a boy of thirteen, carried refreshments to his uncle, Charles Sabin, and others, while they were at work building the road up this Pass. What these refreshments were in the detail did not at that time transpire, except that they w^ere the ordinary " baiting " or dinner, accompanied, of course, by the then customary stimulus, of which Charles Sabin and his two sons, who then carried on the old Sabin place, were quite too fond. The constant prominence of this family in the town, however, and especially the sturdy patriotism of Lieu- tenant Zebediah Sabin and the excellent character of Anna Dwight, his wife and widow, and the high position of their descendants here, make it every way fitting that this name be affixed to some one of those rock-ribbed hills at whose feet their life work was done. Ac- cordingly, will present contemporaries and coming posterity unite to make current, that the twin egg-shaped hills projecting above the general level of the Taconics to the south of [Mount INIills and near the south line of the town be called " Sabin Heights " hereafter ? These close-nestling hills, too, may be seen from many parts of the main village, in whose homes Dr. Sabin also made himself dear by fifty years of medical ministry. May it please the reader, we will now retreat from the Taconic peaks and ravines, which have detained us perhaps too long already, by the old road, of which the Johnson Pass road was but a western continuation, which led straight from the New Ashford road on the east to the Hancock road on the west, between the southern tier of 44 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. the 50-acre lots of the second division and the adjoining 100-acre lots. The part of this road eastward from Austin Blair's has been of late years discontinued. Beginning at the end of the long Ob- long, it passed over the gentle and fertile slope of Stratton Moun- tain, giving at first the traveller going east a fine view on his right of " Point Young " and " Martin's Mount " and the other peaks of Jericho Ridge, which is the western side of the mountain mass of which Stratton Mountain is the northern front. The whole is a huge wedge thrust into the Williamstown valley from the south, and flanked on the east by the Ashford Brook and on the west by the Hancock Brook, which two unite at South Williamstown to form Green River. The town of Hancock in the olden time was called "Jericho"; and Martin's Mount is so designated in order to com- memorate Martin Townsend, one of the first settlers of that town, and one of its sturdiest and most picturesque citizens. Williams- town has no claim upon him, though the two towns have had many points of interesting contact ; but his son, Nathaniel, born in 1781, spent a long and honored life here ; and his three grandsons, Rufus M., Martin I., and Randolph W., are all graduates of the College, in '30, '33, and '36, respectively. Martin's Mount is the highest peak on Jericho Ridge, and is nearly opposite the old farm in the valley, which Martin Townsend and Susannah Allen, his wife, (mar- ried in 1773, when he was seventeen and she but fourteen), cleared and cultivated, and upon which they grew rich and old. They spread their first meal in their new home on the top of a barrel, and their lodging-place at first was more primitive than was usual for white folks even in these forests primeval. He was a loyalist in the Revolution, as he had a right to be, and so were several others of the chief men of Jericho. It stands upon a town record of Oc- tober, 1777, that eleven men, of whom he was the first named, " have all of them returned from the enemy, with whom they have been in battle against us." The reference is to the battle of Bennington ; but it has never been exactly cleared up, and never will be, precisely in what capacity or in what degree of active toryism they were in or near that battle. Townsend died on his farm in May, 1848. On his tombstone are these words : '^ Incomprehensible Infinity ! In Him all is right." Passing over this cross-road, accordingly, to the Ashford road at Aaron Deming's old place, and up the Ashford road a quarter of a mile or so, we come to an old road on the left hand that goes up alongside ''Roaring Brook" (so called from immemorial time). Roaring Brook falls into the Ashford Brook on the right of the SITUATION. 45 main road a few rocls above this turn. The brook and its many branches drain a wide hill country to the south of Greylock and Bald ^fountain. As this brook road is one way to reach the " Heart of Grey- lock," as it was called by Professor Hopkins and his Alpine Club, a place on the upper reaches of the brook, where tliree of its tributaries pour down in- to a wonderfully hidden recess in the depths of Saddle Mountain, we will follow up the road as far as it goes towards that objective point. For vehi- cles, at present the road ends at the junction on the left of the first large tributary with the main brook, or, as it has been called for a half century or more, at " Goodell's " ; although formerly one road extended up from this point the steep flanks of Bald Mountain, to the Harrison farm between that summit and Grey- lock, and another followed up the main stream some distance further. About 1830 there were seven or eight poor houses along this road and brook, and nearly the same number on nearly the same sites about 1890. Daniel Kin- ney, a substantial citizen, early made his home near the entrance to the brook road on the left- hand side of it. This is still called the " Kinney Place." It is on 46 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. the 100-acre lot No. 24. One of his daughters married a Com stock, and they had a home in East Street, and became the parents of the late Mrs. Eeed Mills. Zenas Koberts, born Sept. 21, 1781, son of Ard Eoberts and Miriam, lived in one of these houses on the brook before and after 1830. The elder Eoberts, whose name is on many a Eevolutionary muster-roll, and who was in the battle of Benning- ton, and who used, at the beginning of this century, to spay sows and render other like services to his neighbors, lived on the Ashford road a few rods above the turn, on 100-acre lot No. 25, a place still occupied by his descendants. Starling Daniels, of whom we shall hear more by and by, lived during the last part of his life in one of these houses up Eoaring Brook, and his widow and children after him. Some one or more families of the name of Goodell have lived on that road during most of the present century. Mrs. Thompson, a lady of excellent Christian character, lived on the Kinney Place, with her son-in-law, for many years, about 1880. Beautiful house-plants adorned the windows of that old house during her residence in it. At Goodell's a considerable tributary falls into Eoaring Brook on the left hand as one goes up, and this branch it is that drains the whole region between Bald Mountain and Mount Chadbourne, and the southern flanks of both of these. We may call this," if we please, "Goodell Brook." Then, following up the main stream, at first along what was once a wagon road, and afterwards along steep banks without any sign of path, we come into a rough and wild and dark gorge, adown which pours over rocks and old roots and fallen trunks our roaring brook, "and hears no sound save his own dashings." The thick woods on the high hillsides right and left have been repeatedly cut off, to be burned into charcoal to feed the furnace fires of the Lanesboro Iron Company. But woods in such places renew their youth like the eagle's. Some trees are always left standing on account of their inaccessibility, and some on account of their com- parative uselessness for furnace purposes ; the soil is dank, and is annually enriched by leaves falling thick on the spot and blown in from the upper hillsides ; sprouts and saplings of all kinds push up with vigor under these circumstances, and it is but a few years after :a cutting when the whole scene seems as dense and wild as it did before the woodman's axe echoed at all up and down the hollow. Less than two miles' ascent brings one from Goodell's into the " Heart of Greylock," well so called ; that is, into an elongated basin tipped at an angle, in the depths of the forest ; into this there tumbles first on the left hand, from some sixty feet above, a strong stream, white with friction from its rocks ; a couple of rods ahead there falls into SITUATION. 47 the same, from the right-hand side, a larger brook, though from a lower height, that has drained in its course a part of the " Berry Patch," that is, the lower western slopes of mounts ^Moore and Griffin; while just in front, the main brook dashes down the steep rocks some thirty feet or more into the upper quarter of the basin, having drained from a longer distance the upper and more marshy flanks of the same mountains. Here, then, is the " Heart." This the receptacle and reservoir of the life-blood of this giant mass of mountain. A dialogue between Albert Hopkins and one of the young ladies of his Alpine Club, written out by him afterwards, and doubtless somewhat replenished and embellished beyond the actual conversa- tion had on the spot, will give the reader a deeper and jjleasanter impression of the seclusion and grandeur of the place than any pos- sible words of the present writer. It is the lady who opens the dialogue, and the respondent is the Professor himself. How still it is ! I have not dared to whisper since we came here. I suppose this is the Heart of Greylock. If great Nature is silent, we may well be. Does not this remind you, sir, of that place we read of, — "which the vulture's eye hath not seen " ? I was thinking of that other pasjiage, — " the earth with its bars is about me forever." It is something to be confronted by great rocky strata, as we are here. Since you have spoken, another passage has occurred to me, — " The strength of the hills is His also." You may well be reminded of that ; and also of the place where it says, — " If I speak of strength, lo ! He is strong." When we see great rocks inter- lammated, and twisted together like these, we feel our littleness ; we are sure that He who disposed, cemented, and piled them so high above us, could "take no pleasure in the legs of a man or the strength of a horse." I wish, sir, you would repeat to me the rest of that passage from Job ; for I have forgotten it. I think I should better understand its meaning here. I will repeat the commencement of it. It needs to be read with a com- mentary ; not, as you suggest, that of learned critics or theologians, but of vast objects such as we see around us. The passage would bear to be read by the seaside, or by starlight, as you will see before I have finished repeating it : — " He is wise in heart and mighty in strength ; who hath hardened himself against Him, and prospered ? , Which removeth the mountains and they know not ; which overtumeth them in his anger ; Which shaketh the earth out of her place, and the pillars thereof tremble ; Which commandeth the sun and it riseth not, and sealeth up the stars ; Which, alone, spreadeth out the heavens, and treadeth upon the waves of the sea ; 48 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. Which maketh Arcturus, Orion, and Pleiades, and the chambers of the south ; Which doeth great things past finding out ; yea, and wonders without number.'* I do not think, sir, I ever heard that passage before. Probably not. You had heard it read from a dry wooden desk; and, per- haps, by some lily-fingered clergyman, who never went into the Heart of Greylock, or into the heart of anything. But you will confess to me now the value of a good commentary. Let me ask you, sir, whether you think my reference to the passage which speaks of the " vulture's eye and the lion's whelps " was out of place ? Perhaps not, though some critics refer that passage to the operations of the miner ; which were on a grand scale anciently, as now. I will give you another translation ; and to interest you the more in it, I will tell you that it is by a lady [Louisa Payson Hopkins] , — one who once looked upon Greylock, and also ascended it. At the top of the manuscript is written in pencil, "very literal" ; and though no Hebraist myself, I have reason to believe the translation very exact. You will notice that in this translation the poetical form of the original has been preserved, which has not been done by our translators. " As to the earth, out of it cometh bread, And under it is turned up as it were fire. Her stones are the place of sapphires, And her dust is gold for him (man), (or gold is dust for it, — the sapphire). The bird of prey knoweth not the path to it, And the vulture's eye hath not seen it. The sons of pride (wild beasts) have not trodden it, The lion hath not passed over it. (Man) layeth his hand upon the flint. He upturneth mountains from their roots, He causeth streams to break out among the rocks. And his eye seeth every precious thing. He restraineth streams from trickling (in the mines), And that which is hid he bringeth to light." I had hardly supposed so grand a description could refer to the works of man. So it might seem. Yet you remember when I showed you into the Tunnel the other day, we reached a place which no vulture's eye could ever have seen, nor lion's whelps could ever have passed. Whereas, here, methinks, I can even now hear a vulture screaming over us ! Did I tell you that in a chasm near by, or rather, overhanging us, there is a golden eagle's nest ? I should think, too, the wild beasts might congregate here in the night season. And as to the Tunnel, I am sure it seemed to me, when we were "there, that the work was almost superhuman. It was frightful, too, so that, if we had not had the chief engineer to pilot us in, I should never have dared to attempt it. But probably in Job's day they knew little of such excavations. I am not sure of that. Think of that vast channel or tunnel forty leagues in length, 300 feet wide, and part of it at least cut through the solid rock, cut, too. SITUATION. 49 in Job's clay, perhaps. If our engineers can undertake and perform almost superhuman things, so could those of King Moeris. I think there is one thing, however, which, if Job went to visit King Moeris, as according to your suggestion he may have done, to see his hydraulic works, the engineers of the king could not liave shown him. I see, I presume, what you are about to say, but go on. I think they could not have shown him, as Mr. Granger and Mr. Stowell showed us, how to blast rocks by gunpowder and touch off the blasts by light- ning. To say nothing of drilling by compressed air. Well, no doubt science has made great strides since then. But human labor was cheap in old times ; and they pecked away till they accomplished in longer time the same things which we do. But are you sure it is so still here ? I thought it was perfectly still. But I think I can hear the wind in those spruces, though they are so high up. I fancy no birds are ever heard here, unless it may be owls or whippoorwilLs. You are mistaken in that. We should not expect to hear meadow larks or bobolinks in this deep gulf ; but had we made our visit a few weeks since, we should have heard several sweet singers, — among them the solitary thrush. I should like to hear the note of the thrush now. It chimes in so well in great solitudes like these. I am glad to see that you distinguish the notes of birds ; even of those that are not very familiar. I do not suppose there are half a dozen young ladies in Williamstown or Adams, and I might go on to Cheshire, Pittsfield, and so on down the County, who ever heard a solitary thrush ; or what amounts to the same thing, who know that they ever heard one. Do not speak so disparagingly, sir, of us. Of course, I make you an exception ; and a few others, whose education has been conducted on something like rational principles. ExciLse me, sir, please, but there are a thousand things here I am eager to examine, and I see the afternoon is wearing away. You are afraid of the wild beasts, perhaps, who might be prowling around, if nightfall should overtake us here. But I must detain you a little while longer; for this subject of the abuses of what is popularly termed " education" has been running lately in my mind, and must have vent somewhere. Allow me, sir, to say that, if we can ever climb back over these frightful ♦' bars " as you call them, the same good things, which I know you wish to say, might be spoken before a larger audience. And a more appreciative one, I fancy. Very well, we will not break friend- ship ; especially here in the " Heart " of Greylock. But look ! How the shadows lengthen ! Is it possible that is the sun, which we see through the gap, so near to the summit of the Taconics ? These "bars " cannot be let down, so we must hasten and scramble over them, or the "sons of pride" will be upon us before we catch a glimpse of Williamstown or White Oaks. Like the Professor and his fair band, we, too, must now beat a retreat from the Heart of Greylock ; but as belonging to a younger generation than they, we will, like Wolfe's men at the Heights of Abraham, scramble up the almost perpendicular banks of the brook 50 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. already described, that pours itself foamy into the left auricle of the Heart ; because that route, though rough, will bring us directly up to the now famous Camping-Ground, that lies on the skirts of the Harrison farm upon the high shoulder-valley between Bald Mountain and Greylock. The head spring of this brook is on the flank of Greylock, a little north of the camping-place, and a little east of the cleared ground of the farm ; and a small tributary of it rises in another spring that gushes up within the beat of the camp itself; and here on Williamstown ground, ever after about the year 1870 till the present writing, various parties from the leading families of this village have spent a month or two in the summer- time, camping out on one- or the other of the tiny tines of this fluent fork ; outdoor life at such an elevation and amid such wonders and solitudes of Nature is found to be at once restful and exhilarating ; all the points of interest in the neighborhood of the camp, and in the great Hopper to the north of it, have been constantly visited, and appropriately christened, and often vividly described, by these parties, consisting about equally of young ladies and gentlemen; the "Vista," for example, to the north of the camp, situated near the watershed, whence the head stream of the "Bacon Brook" flows north into the Hopper, and that of the "Camp Brook" also rising close by flows south into the Heart, as we have already seen, is one of the chief points of interest, whence, adown between Bald Mountain and Simonds Peak, a distant and enchanting view is gained across the whole Williamstown valley in a northwest direc- tion, and so across the west end of the village in the line of the Mansion House and the Kappa Alpha Lodge, and so on towards the " Golden Gate," — the point at which the Hoosac lapses into Vermont ; although it is said, that of late years the undergrowth near to the Vista has shown more vigor in shooting up so as to obstruct the view, than the thews of the young men, namely, the successive guardians and champions and laborers of the camp, have shown in cutting it down, and so keeping the long and weird view open. The Harrison farm, to which reference was just now made, has been connected in its history with two of the early and prominent families of the town, namely, the Harrison and Bacon families. Jacob Bacon, son of Nathaniel 2d, both of Middletown, Connecticut, came here a young yeoman about 1766, perhaps a little later ; his father had given him some lots of land in Lanesboro as early as 1761, and he himself bought land there in June, 1766; Aaron Bacon and Daniel Bacon, from Middletown, believed to be his brothers, were SITUATION 51 landowners here in 17G6, holding first division fifty-acre lots 61 and 63 ; and Jacob Bacon at any rate became an important citi- zen here, and died in December, 1819, in his eightieth year. His daughter, Jerusha, married Almon Harrison, son of Titus Harrison, another well-to-do citizen ; and while the Bacons had previously held land in or near the Hopper, Harrison bought, towards the end of the last century, of a great land-grabber in his day, Ephraim Seelye, 1300 acres, including the whole high plateau between the Bluffs of Bald Mountain and the present camping- grounds. The purchase mone}- was $1000. The present Bacon farm in the Hopper had been settled very early by Elkanah Parris, an old soldier of Fort Massachusetts ; and Harrison now pushed a rude road past that place, perhaps wholly upon his own land, up the steep flank of Bald Mountain and across the flat to the point where the camps are now pitched. He cleared the land on the top, burnt the timber, raised at first great crops of wheat, built a log- house for tenants by the side of Camp Brook, the cellar and under- pinning stones of which are plainly visible to this day ; and built a large barn also to the north of the house, all signs of which have long been obliterated. It has been credibl}^ transmitted to our own times, however, that there were men enough present at the '• rais- ing " of the barn to lift the big beams into place by sheer human strength. It must have been a day of interest and probably of jollification to the men in the valley below, who were summoned to the old-fashioned raising amid the half-burned stumps of the mountain top; for there was not then, and never has been since, a framed building within two miles of the spot; and there must have been, accordingly, a novelty about it, a sort of prospective elevation of spirits, that made that particular call to a "raising" popular in the farmhouses along Green River and its branches. There was indeed no fee or reward for such a service rendered by one's neighbors ; but the summoner was expected to furnish " re- freshment " while the tug of the lifting was going forward, and especially when the beams and rafters were all in position, and the white oak pins had been well driven in ; it was the part of the boys that were present at a raising to distribute the pins; and Almon Harrison -vvas not a man to grudge the entertainment usual on such occasions in this locality, which was "good old'^ St. Croix rum ; he liked it himself ; and it throws a little shading over the pleasant picture of the barn-raising beneath the Bluffs, — a shading that real life often gives to its apparently most joyous scenes, — that, a decade or two later, when cider-brandy stills 52 OKIGINS IN WILLI AMSTOWN. became the style in Williamstown, Harrison set up one on the banks of Green River near " Taylor's Crotch," that he became a drunkard, and that the Judge of Probate appointed Deacon Levi Smedley guardian over his old age, lest he should squander the patrimony of his children. Under these circumstances the Harrisons sold the 1300 acres to Stephen Bacon, son of Jacob Bacon, and brother-in-law of Almon Harrison, who paid for the property about the same as Harrison had paid for it before, improved the former Hopper road to the mountain farm, while about the same time a second road had been run up to it from Goodell's on the other side, continued to cultivate the land there for many years, thus and otherwise permanently attached the name of Bacon to the region of the Hopper, and left to his son, Stephen Bacon 2d, born in 1804, to pass the whole of a long life on or near the paternal acres, though the Harrison farm had gone meantime into other hands. Tenants by the name of Valet, and Cottrell, and others, occupied in succession the log-house by Camp Brook. At length Stephen Bacon 3d, great-grandson to Jacob, rather through purchase than inheritance from his father, came to be a large landowner and successful farmer within the Bacon circuit, living in the last third of the century in the old house of Elkanah Parris, of which the remark was often made that its beams were of white oak, of which not a tree was ever found in the Hopper or within two or three miles of it, leaving the fair implica- tion that Parris hauled the frame of his house from the White Oaks proper. These general facts justify the designation of what is now a poor pasture annually growing smaller by the crowding in of the woods all around its outskirts as the " Harrison Farm " ; and they also fully justify the naming of the brook and its branches that rises near the Vista, and drains the whole south side of the Hopper, as "Bacon Brook." The Bacon and Harrison families occupied the same pew in the old village meeting-house, built in 1796, and the two are likely always to be associated in the traditions and history of the Hopper. An anecdote well authenticated, that comes down to us from the beginning of the century, throws some light on the state of things in Williamstown at that time, and on the degree of intelligence then had among the common cultivators of the soil : — When Schuyler Putnam, son of the General, was the landlord of the Mansion House, a travelling showman brought a single tiger to be exhibited there for so much a sight. Among many others who came to see this small fraction of a menagerie, and duly paid their money, came Jacob Bacon and his wife Lois. SITUATION. 53 After looking at the animal as long as they liked, the wife said to the husband, " Come, Jacob, go get your money back, and let's go home ; it's nothing but a tiger-cat I " Before we finally leave the Harrison farm and its associations to descend into the Hopi)er by the Bacon Brook, we may do our- selves the pleasure of quoting and reading a fine passage descrip- tive of Bald Mountain and the Hopper, from the pen of Albert Hopkins : — The spot to which I refer is Bald Mountain in Williamstown, near the Ash- ford line. This mountain, as a whole, resembles a lion couchant, with his head to the east, guarding seemingly the outlet of the Hopper. The sentinel is quite in keeping with the passage or gap, which he seems to protect. In fact his huge shoulder and mane form one side of the gap itself. If I have been rightly informed, Bald Mountain must bear a striking resemblance to the celebrated Rock of Gibraltar. The material, however, of which it is composed, is less beautiful than the Gibraltar stone. Like most of the group to which it belongs, it is slate, talcose, and mica, with modules of white or milky quartz intermixed. Our mode of ascent (keeping up the figure of the lion) was on foot, and up the middle of the back. And if your readers will bear in mind the difference between a lion couchant and a lion dormant, they will see what we found to our cost to be true, that when we had reached the top of the monster's back, the greater part of the climbing remained to be done. However, we stood about twelve o'clock on his bald pate. And had we not been prepared for the view by having repeatedly seen it before, we should have been lost in absolute astonish- ment. But though there was less of astonishment, there was not less of wonder, as we gazed at the immense mountain masses which upheaved themselves before us. In fact we enjoyed an advantage which would have been secured by no other approach to the look-off, — that of emerging suddenly from the inconven- iently thick and tangled covering of our fancied animal, into an open space where all that Greylock has of grandeur stood confronting us in a moment. I will indicate a few points of interest, in the first place, in regard to the " Hopper," as the pioneers of Fort Massachusetts memory agreed to call this remarkable and unique indentation in the Greylock chain, — a "Clove" it would be called among the Catskills. It would seem as if some tremendous throe of Nature in the primitive ages essayed at this point to break the chain in two, but only succeeded with the weaker or western half of the link. Not con- tent with this, it would seem that this primeval force directed its fury eastward, determining to grapple with the strength of Greylock itself ; and how nearly successful it was in this audacious and almost impious attempt, those can testify who have penetrated into the true Hopi)er, or Hopper within the Hopper, as it might be called, a point not visible to the traveller as he passes up from Pittsfield by the usual route. Overlooking this frightful chasm, an eagle has built his nest. Here the slant- ing rays of the sun scarcely penetrate, even at noon. In this gloomy fissure clouds have broken at times, so tradition reads, and so the people believe. Here are landslides 1000 feet high, one of them fresh, and apparently the result of tliat immense and unexampled burden of snow, which, during the past winter. 64 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. loaded our mountain sides. Certain lady readers will doubtless turn pale at this part of my letter. Nothing would tempt them to set their feet in so awful a place. To such let me say that the Alpine Club, composed mostly of ladies, have not only penetrated here, but actually made the ascent to Greylock up this nearly vertical escarpment. Prospect Mountain appears nowhere so finely as from Bald Mountain. It abuts out in a most imposing manner. Higher than Bald, it cuts off the horizon on the northeast ; but it more than compensates for what it conceals by its grand pyramidal outline ; and also by the fact, that it makes, with Mount Williams opposite, a superb setting for a beautiful landscape which appears between, contrasting finely in its azure tinge with the deep green of the nearer mountain slopes. This picture has for its floor that lofty table-land known as Wilbur's Pasture, — now growing up, by the way, into a fine evergreen park, worth being seen. Through a gap in the opposite direction appear the Catskills. It is well for us here in the valleys to get our heads lifted up, at least once a year, high enough to see the outline of these ever to be admired summits. If I had spoken my mind freely, I should have said at least once a month. Another point of interest is the view southward. Here we see the Pittsfield valley, with its western lake, a beautiful sheet of water ; and, 'what interested us particularly, Monument Mountain, in Stockbridge, not projected, as from Greylock, like an undulating thread along the flank of Taconic, and hence not recognized from there except by those well posted up in south county scenery, but here Monument Rocks stand out distinctly against the sky. I thought I could see a rock called the " Haystack" under Bald Peak, but may have been mistaken. Monument Rocks are famous, having been immortalized by Bryant, and it is rather a nice point to see them from this distance. I had the pleasure of pointing them out, a few weeks since, to a party of ladies, from a point still more distant, in Clarksburg, where we spent a night pleasantly on the Green Mountain range ; and were able, after watching Greylock bathing himself, or clothing himself, in sunlight, — a process which required more than half an hour to perform, — after this we could see not only Monument Rocks, but could actu- ally detect their white, chalk-like tints as seen from Stockbridge Plain. I cannot close this brief sketch of a pleasant day's ramble on Bald Mountain, without referring to my last visit there. It was, perhaps, twenty years since, in company with a party, among whom was Miss Catherine Sedgwick. It was in the fall of the year, a little earlier than I should have chosen to visit the spot for the sake of the autumnal scenery. But Miss Sedgwick had selected that time purposely ; because she preferred the woods when the green, if it did not preponderate over the more brilliant colors, was at least fairly represented ; and her preference was justified by the view, than which nothing could be finer, since the forest immediately under Bald Mountain, on the east, and in front, is composed mostly of deciduous trees. Miss Sedgwick was a native of Stockbridge, and a great admirer of its beautiful scenery, but she owned the power of our loftier mountains and more ample forests ; and would often bring her distinguished friends here, to have pointed out to herself and them what could not be found in the more quiet landscapes and woodlands of Southern Berkshire. No one admired the scenery of our county more appreciatively than Miss SITUATION. 55 Sedgwick, so no one, not even Bryant, has done more to turn the eyes of others towards it. It happened to her to reach a period in life when the outward senses are less keen, and impressions from Nature less vivid ; but her sensi- bilities were never more wakeful to suffering than during her latter years. Her patriotism and her charities were conspicuous during the war ; and since then she has been full of sympathy with every good work. Among her latest gifts were some valuable books, in the title-page of one of which, entitled "The Charities of Europe," she wrote a few lines, closing with the prayer *'that it may be blessed on its holy mission to the Dear Boys in the White Oaks.''* One may descend to the Hopper from Bald Mountain, whence and in relation to which these striking observations by Professor Hopkins were made, either by the Harrison farm-road, or, if he be firm-footed, by the Bacon Brook, which unites its water near the bottom of the vast gorge with " Money Brook," so-called, another stream tliat drains with its branches all the northern sides and recesses of the Hopper, as Bacon Brook draws the drainage of its southern sides. In one of the deep and dismal gorges far up on this northern side of the Hop- per, where the roots of Mount Fitch and Simonds Peak and the Wil- bur Pasture all intertwine, remote and inaccessible, where the foot of man in any age has but very seldom trod, and will tread but sel- dom till the end of time, a small gang of counterfeiters, not long after the year 1800, had a concealed den by the side of the brook for their work of fraud. Tradition still tells many a tale about these crim- inals, which the prudent man will receive with caution, or not at all ; but the main fact rests on firm historical grounds, and has very properly given a euphonious name to the mountain brook. Griles B. Kellogg, of Troy, a native of the town and a graduate of the College, in his old age repeatedly told the writer, and afterwards put the statement into writing for its better authentication, that, when he was a boy in his father's house, there was an old chest in one of the chambers that contained the tools and other apparatus of these coun- terfeiters, which had been found in the Hopper, and brought to his father as a Justice of the Peace to be used as evidence against the men in case they could be apprehended. The gang had either abandoned their work and tools, or at least had escaped the officers ; but one man was arrested on suspicion that he had belonged to it, and was brought before Justice Samuel Kellogg ; there was no legal evidence against the accused, and the court broke up, when a single witness had appeared and testified, that, as he was hunting in the Hopper, he had heard the sound of hammering, — " Kling, kling, kling!" and then turning to the prisoner, the witness exclaimed, " That was you, Michael, hammering out the dollars ! " 56 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. No reader of these pages would ever forgive the present writer, nor would he ever forgive himself, if he should purposely omit to quote at this very point, and pretty fully too, the alleged dialogue between Professor Hopkins and one of the lady members of his Alpine Club, ostensibly held between the two as the club were climb- ing Money Brook in June, 1869, and as the dialogue was written out from memory for publication by the former a few days after the jaunt. Some lines on "Wawbeek Falls" will also be appended, although the name of their student author, then a member of the club, will be prudently withholden, since it is not certain that he would now be willing, after such an interval of time, to father the poem, which he might now deem to be wild and crude. The names of the two " falls " in Money Brook referred to in the conversation have a strong South Berkshire flavor, and emanated undoubtedly from the memory of the Professor, whose early life in Stockbridge and vicinity beautifully colored his later life in Williamstown. It seems fortunate, does it not, sir, that the Wawbeek Falls should be discov- ered just as the Cascade was losing something of its former prestige ? It was quite a timely discovery ; since the Cascade, even in its palmiest days, could not compete with these new falls. There will be quite a quarrel about the honor of discovering them, I sup- pose. Undoubtedly. It is already whispered round that a bear hunter in the latter part of the last century came across them. And more recently it is said that they have been heard in the distance by some foresters. On the other hand, sir, the honor of making this fine discovery belongs, I claim, exclusively to the club. I well remember as we were returning last autumn from the Heart of Greylock ; we came over Bald Mountain ; and you took occasion from there to point out to us a shoulder in the group of mountains opposite, saying at the same time that that must be among the earliest explora- tions of the spring. You said you had an idea that there was something worth seeing there. Any one who went there, you said, would find a " huge world. ' ' I recollect the circumstance ; still a mere proposal to visit a spot so wild and difficult of access did not make us discoverers. It was only when we had pene- trated into it, it was only when our eyes had actually seen the recesses of the gorge, when we stood confronted by the great abutment which closes it in, and saw in place of dry ledges, as we feared, or at most, ledges covered with moss, a beautiful ribbon of foam let down in festoons from one shelf to another, — then it was that we might, as we did, regard ourselves as real bona fide dis- coverers. Do you recollect, sir, who caught a glimpse of the falls first ? Modesty forbids me to answer that question, but I accord to you the credit of being the second to see them. In fact, had you been in front, you might have seen them first. SITUATION. 57 I shall not soon forget the impressions made by my first glimpse of them, nor the pleasure we had as we ascended the steep mountain side opposite and ob- served them from aloft at a distance. What a curious effect it has to watch them through the opera-glass, reclining so as to bring one eye directly over the other. That glass has an immense field of view ; and your respect for it will be increased, when I inform you that rays of light from the sunnnit of Chimborazo and the cone of Cotopaxi have passed through its lenses. Let me now ask you how high you judged the falls to be ? Full seventy feet, were they not ? Through the glass they seemed hundreds of feet. Do you imagine them to be permanent, sir, or like the March cataracts in the Hopper which are visible only when the snow is melting ? As Money Brook, to which the stream from these falls is a principal tributary, is permanent, no doubt the falls are so likewise. There are seasons, you know, when our western friends are ashamed to exhibit even the Father of Waters. But I must now tell you, what I did not tell you afterwards, nor do any of the club know it, that there are beautiful falls higher up. You noticed, no doubt, that I did not join the returning party till they had reached the falls half or three quarters of a mile below. The cause of my delay was a device to explore the stream still farther up. And I was well rewarded for my pains ; for a fifth of a mile, perhaps, above the falls was another cascade scarcely yielding in beauty to the one below. The quantity of water was less, for in the interval the stream had forked again ; but it dashed along over a succession of benches after a fashion to have drawn many exclamations, had the rest of the party been able to ascend so far. These falls are probably about 1800 feet high. Are you in earnest, sir ? I am. This cascade is nearly on a level with the Harrison farm on Bald Mountain, and must be, therefore, seventeen or eighteen hundred feet above the valley. From this point the ground slopes back gently towards Mount Fitch on the east, and towards the rim of the Hopper on the south. I think I will ask you to guess the name of these upper falls. Sky Falls ! You are correct. They are, no doubt, the highest falls in the State. We should not, however, pronounce certainly on the point till we have explored more thoroughly the sources of Money Brook. At least one of the club has volunteered to undertake that exploration, and it should be done at once ; for the forthcoming book of Washington Gladden will, no doubt, attract swarms of tourists in this direction. Whatever laurels, therefore, the club expects to win in the line of discovery, it behooves them to gather soon. Do you not think, sir, that some more feasible route might be devised to reach the Wawbeek Falls ? Otherwise, I fear that few outside the club will ever see them. They might be reached by the way of Wilbur's Pasture. Tourists from the East would find this way the most convenient. They would then commence their explorations at the top of Sky Falls, and follow the stream downwards. But we are not to expect that ordinary tourists will do any such thing, simply for the reason that it would be impossible. The falls are real, yet they are in a dell so deep and lonely, and so at right angles to everything, that to most persons they are destined, no doubt, to remain forever among the myths of Greylock. 58 OKIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. WAWBEEK FALLS. Nature tripping over Greylock, Threw her velvet mantle down, And clasped its green folds on his shoulder With a jewel from her crown. A gem with the diamond's lustre, And the opal's fitful light, Which blended the pearl's soft iris With the shadowy chrysolite. And the mountain's giant sentries. Round the priceless treasure fold, As the dragons in the garden, Watched the fabled fruit of gold. Gently as a maiden's tresses Brush against her rounded cheek. O'er the time-worn, moss-grown boulders Glide the waters of Wawbeek. Dancing on the sloping sunbeams, Sadly sweet, yet weirdly strong, Thro' earth's emerald arched temple, Floats its mystic, dreamy song. Breaks it first in filmy silver Like a bride's soft veil of lace. Crowned with flowers made fairer, purer. By the roses of her face. Then bubbling, laughing, sighing, singing, Pours it from the glittering ledge. Gleaming like a Naiad's tresses. Silvered with the kiss of age. As the sun rolls down towards evening O'er it steals a golden glow. Like a conflagration sweeping Thro' a forest thick with snow. And the gold blends with the ruby Till the water seems like wine. As if Bacchus on the mountain Had o'erturned his cup divine. Then calmer, slower, softer, clearer. Glides it o'er the argent-sand, Like some life, its youth's joy ended, Sweeping toward the Better Land. SITUATION. ^^^V 59 Money Brook and Bacon Brook join their streams in murmuring acquiescence on one of the lower slopes of the huge Hopper, and so form the Hopper Brook, which, after a devious course of two miles or so, falls into Green Kiver at Taylor's Crotch. It now only remains, to complete this opening cliapter on the "Situation" of Williamstown, to devote a few elementary para- graphs to its geology, its diversities of soil, its natural productions, and its unique beauty as a whole. The central valley of the town is underlaid throughout by lime- stone. This is true in general of the narrow east and west portion along the Hoosac, and more exactly true of the broader valley north and south along the courses of the Green River and the Hemlock Brook. Now limestone is a good rock for all practical purposes. It seems to give the right proportion of "grit" to both the men and the beasts who live above and ui3on it. The Blue Grass region in Kentucky, which is a limestone section, breeds horses of the best bottom and the greatest speed of any in the United States; and Vermont, which is also full of limestone rock, stands next after Kentucky in that regard. We shall see on many a sequent page, that the men of Williamstown at any rate, whether the same be true of other localities or not, have shown from the very first good courage and firm stamina in five successive wars, as well as in many a moral conflict. It is probably true, accordingly, that a bit of limestone in one's daily bread does no harm to the digestion, or the subsequent action of mind and body ; and limestone water also, to those who are well used to it, is the most wholesome water in the world. An excellent quarry of limestone lies along the lowest edge of Bee Hill by the Hemlock Brook, and the ledge extends diagonally across the brook and reappears in masses on the southern slopes of Stone Hill. The materials for the building of the second College chapel in 1859 came from this quarry, and then Goodrich Hall was built from the same in 1861, next Clark Hall in 1880, then Morgan Hall in 1882, and the new Gymnasium also in 1885. These and all the other College buildings, without exception, have as their underlying foundation, in whole or in part, the living limestone rock. Previous to the erection of the first College chapel in 1827, now called Griffin Hall, masses of this rock rose up, ragged and twice as high as a man's head, on the main street in front of that building. These masses were broken down by gunpowder and thrown into the foun- dations of that building, and the ground in front was smoothed off much as it is at present ; but when the trees were planted there, 60 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. about 1850, earth, was brought from a distance to cover to a suffi- cient depth for their growth the then almost naked limestone rock, which even now appears here and there above the surface. The Eecords of the Trustees, under date of August 3, 1785, which was the second meeting of that body, reveal the fact, that there had been long before a lime-kiln near where the Soldiers' Monument now stands ; because they passed a vote at that time to erect their first building for the Free School either "upon the eminence south of Mr. William Horsford's house [where the West College now stands], or upon the eminence further east in the northwest corner of Captain Isaac Searle's lot [where Clark Hall now stands], oppo- site the old lime-kiln, as the Corporation shall hereafter determine." At present the only place in the village, or near it, in which the native rock stands out boldly, is directly in the rear of the chapel, where. the western wall of the hill itself is a picturesque and perpen- dicular mass of limestone about fifteen feet high, full of scars and cracks and crevices and old geologic wrinkles. In the autumn of 18§4 the writer had the pleasure and profit of studying this limestone formation carefully, under the personal instruction of Professor Dana, of Kew Haven, then, and for a long time previous, the foremost geologist in the United States. He exhibited the proofs on the spot and in detail, that this bed-rock not only covers all the central valleys of Williamstown at no great depth beneath the surface, but also that it crowds up into the clove of the Hopper, and there dips under the range of Greylock, and reappears upon the other side in the town of Adams, where the inclination is towards the west, while the dip on this side is pretty uniformly towards the east. "Most limestones have been formed from shells and corals ground up by the action of the sea, and afterwards consolidated. The com- position is usually the same as carbonate of lime, except that impurities, as clay or sand, are often present. Carbonate of lime is one of the most universal of minerals. It is the ingredient of a very large part of the limestones of the world, and these include the various true marbles. When free from impurities, it consists of carbonic acid forty-four parts, and limestone fifty-six parts. In common limestone, oxygen is forty-eight per cent of the whole." (Dana.) These simple facts of science account for much in the soil, and for something in the history, of central Williamstown. The soil of course is calcareous, that is, a soil full of lime, and there is also much iron in it, partly because there is iron in the limestone, and partly because there is a large deposit of iron ore, which was SITUATION. 61 once profitably worked on the slope of Mdunt Williams, and such ore was doubtless more or less diffused in the region. The presence of oxygen and iron and lime in and uix)n the rock frets it contin- ually. Oxidation is followed by disintegration, and gives rise to the reddish-brown dust which always covers the limestone boulders embedded in the soil, and which constantly enriches and strengthens _it for the purposes of agriculture. This our limestone soil, conse- lently, is good, has a body to it, takes kindly to other fertilizers, )ws unsurpassed grasses and vegetables, and though for some reason no longer favorable to wheat, is still as good for corn as any land in the world. Carbonic acid is two parts oxygen and one part carbon. All that is needful in order to burn pure limestone into lime, is to throw off the carbonic acid by heat, which leaves a pure lime. Tlie lime- stone here, however, has too many of the impurities spoken of above to make a good lime ; and this is undoubtedly the reason why the "lime-kiln" in the main street, spoken of as "old" even in 1785, was abandoned. The rock next in importance to this limestone of our valleys, which itself extends uninterruptedly to the north and becomes the great central marble belt of Vermont, is the mica schist of all our encircling hills. The Taconics and their lower eminences towards the valley, the whole mass of Saddle Mountain in every part of it, and for the most part the East Mountiiin also, with its four uplifts already described, are composed of this slaty and schis- tose and most useful rock. Its constituents are the same as those of granite and gneiss, containing, however, relatively more quartz and more mica and less feldspar than these. Since common clay is a mixture of powdered feldspar and quartz, and is composed of just one-half of oxygen, and the sand which comes from quartz is more than one-half of oxygen, and feldspar only a little less than one-half, these two things follow as a matter of course from the great abundance and lofty place of mica schist in all the mountains round about; namely, first, that clay must be a large ingredient in the soil of all the contiguous valleys and farms ; and second, that substances so largely composed of oxygen as clay and sand are, will easily burn and fuse, and consequently that common bricks have naturally been burned and built with in almost every part of this town from the first. All the early College buildings, for example, as well as many farmhouses and other dwellings, were built of brick burned out of the clay and sand of the immediate localities. In the course of ages, vast beds of clay have slipped down from 62 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. the sides and gorges of these schistose mountains; for example, adown the three sides of the Hopper and the slopes of Mount Pros- pect and Mount Williams : and there they lie to-day, underneath the farms and roads of a large part of our territory. One such deposit of clay from the cleft between Williams and Prospect, and which lies near the Baker Bridge and the east line of Williamstown, fur- nished for nearly a century materials for brick-burning, and for a time also for a coarse pottery work made at the east end of the village by a Mr. Faxon, of Hartford. Clay roads are uncomfortable in the springtime when they are heaved up by the frost, and some- times even dangerous by means of breaking through the lifted crust ; but for the summer and autumn they are the best roads in the world, — hard and smooth, Nature's own aluminated pavement. These slaty slopes and hilltops, reinvigorated by the constantly disintegrating rocks above them and underneath them, make very early and very fertile land. S'ometimes the very plough manures the soil as it traces the furrow. The farms on Bee Hill, for example, and on the slopes of Prospect south of Blackinton, are perhaps a week earlier in springtime than the colder calcareous lands along the river bottoms ; but the latter are, after all, a stronger and heartier soil, — lime and iron are good for the land, — while, nevertheless, these rough and slaty uplands grow warm in the sun, drain easily, partially renew themselves from the fretting rock beneath; and, when the clays are not too stiff, are worked without difficulty, and bountifully reward the farmer's toil by all the crops adapted to such a soil. There is but one other native rock in Williamstown besides these two, and that is confined to a narrow belt along the north side of the Hoosac Eiver, and to a still narrower section upon the highest parts of Stone Hill, namely, quartzite. There are quartzite boulders of all sizes, locally called " hardheads," scattered all over the area of the town, even to the tops of the highest hills, and these were doubt- less brought hither from a distance in the period of the glaciers ; but quartzite in situ is only now to be found in the two places just indicated. Dana defines quartzite as "a hard, compact rock, con- sisting of quartz grains or sand, and usually either white, gray, or grayish red in color. It is but a step removed from ordinary sand- stone, and owes its peculiarities to metamorphic agencies." When the railroad was built west from North Adams through Williams- town, it became needful to make a deep cut at Braytonville through this hard quartzite, and several successive contractors are said to have been ruined through gross underestimates of its hardness and SITUATION. 63 difficulty in working. Long afterwards, however, the broken rock from this cutting and from other cuttings instituted for the purpose, was found to be the most useful material obtainable for ballasting the entire road. Quartzite is especially associated with sand, as mica schist is with clay, and nearly all the sandy land in Williamstown is found to the north of the Hoosac, and in more or less connection with this species of rock. There are, however, no great deposits in town of white sand, once disintegrated from this rock, or once the source whence the rock was formed, whichever of the two views be the right one in geology, as there are in the neighboring towns of Lanesboro and Cheshire, where such deposits have long been utilized in the manu- facture of glass products on the spot, and been exported also for that purpose to great distances and in immense quantities. It is probable that there may be a small deposit of white sand in some connection with the quartzite somewhere in the White Oaks, because the ''Ballous," a noted family there, brought sand into the street for scrubbing purposes for several generations ; and when one or another were asked where they got it, their half-witted answer commonly was, "Oh! we fine it!" But it has been the opinion of many that they rather pounded it from the partially pulverized rock, than found it free in any special deposit, which, if it exist, was never reported as seen by other inhabitants of that locality. Much more local interest attaches to this odd " Ballou " family, pronounced as if it were " Blue," whitish mulattoes, as some have said, very dark whites, as has been asserted by others, extremely dirty in either case, than whether there be free white sand in some corner of the White Oaks. " Are the Blues blacks, or blue-blacks ? " has been a long-standing conundrum with the generous and inquisi- tive people of Williamstown. Aaron Ballou was a poor cripple nearly doubled together, his head almost between his legs, who was often seen in the street selling sand, or, more rarely, begging, and who died on Oak Hill, May 30, 1876. His brother Amasa, with others, was frozen to death in the road over the Petersburg Pass the night of the 16th of April, 1857. A brother of these two was named after good Deacon Deodatus Noble; and that the whole family have been underwitted may be illustrated by what was said to him by another brother of still a third one : " Date, Dan's sick as hell, — can't live, 'fore mornin'." Another member of the family, an uncle of these just mentioned, so far as relationships can be made out in a family given to miscegenation, a strong man, used to do little jobs 64 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. in the street as occasion offered. Old Christopher Penniman, a wholesale butcher, who dealt in salt and salted meat as well as cattle, sometimes employed him. One day a load of salt in bags had to be taken from the wagon ; and Harvey and Chester Penni- man, sons of the proprietor, and young bucks of the town, mounted the wagon to lay on the stout shoulders of the White Oaker the heavy bags. Tossing one in sport pretty vigorously to its destina- tion, they were rewarded by this ejaculation sputtered out from between gritted teeth, " I, gy ! more buk there 'n heft ! " Notwithstanding its great abundance only a few miles to the south, there is comparatively little pure sand to be found within the town's limits, and it has sometimes proven difficult to procure sand even good enough and abundant enough for the purposes of the stone mason and plasterer. The Sand Spring, as its name implies, bubbles up profusely through fine sand ; and it was along the course of Broad Brook, which flows near to this spring, that the only pine timber of consequence was found by the early settlers, so close is the native affinity between pines and the sand ; and pines of a later growth are starting up again at present over a sandy hill along the Hoosac, north and east of the mouth of that brook, where two pine lots were located in 1765, and to some extent in other places north of the Hoosac ; and there is a large sandy hill east of the Green River and over against Water Street, and another on Hemlock Brook near the west end of the village, and there is some sandy or rather gravelly soil between the two main tributaries of Green River at the south part of the town ; and some of the alluvial land along the Hoosac may perhaps be called sandy, as, for instance, on the old Kel- logg farm, now owned by F. G. Smedley, whence of late years some sand has been brought to the village for use in making mortar. From the three species of native rock, to which attention has now been called, the materials of the soil have been so well mixed to- gether by Nature, — the clay and sand and lime and iron have been so well adjusted into loam, — that the land is generally productive, and might be made far more so than it is, by a more skilful and laborious husbandry. The lower slopes of North West Hill, as they approach Birch Brook and Hemlock Brook, have always been esteemed among the best lands in the town : the farm cleared up by Joseph Tallmadge, and now owned by Colonel A. L. Hopkins, has generally been regarded the best grain farm in town ; while the farm along the Green River, which began to be cleared by Ichabod Southwick as early as 1763, and is now owned and tilled by Deacon Stephen Hickcox, may hardly be reckoned under his efficient culture SITUATION. 65 inferior to the best. There is more of excellent land on the southerly slope of Stone Hill, and the northerly slopes of Prospect, on the slaty rolls of Birch and Bee hills, as well as on the lime- stone levels of the central uplands and the alluvial levels of the two main rivers. ^ Now, as the soil in general is good, so the seasons are commonly favorable to the crops cultivated in this region. Indeed, the spring season opens earlier than one would suppose from the looks of things here in midwinter; for on the first day of April, 1868, Albert Hopkins found in bloom the trailing arbutus (epigera), the silverleaf (hepatica), the aspen, and the alder. This was a little earlier than is usual, while in the course of that month blossoms are always found on the elm, the soft maple, the willows, the leather- wood, the coltsfoot, the bloodroot, the spring-beauty, the wake-robin, and the violets. The birds, too, come early, the bluebirds within a day or two of March 15, the robins in considerable numbers about the same time, the sparrows and blackbirds and meadow larks in the last days of March or first days of April. There is usually no lack and no excess of rain for the best purposes of agriculture. Occasionally a season will be so dry as to have the term "drought" applied to it by those who cultivate the more sandy or gravelly lands ; sometimes, too, the springtime will seem to be wet and backward, as when, for instance, the average tem- perature of the 11th of June, 1869, was as low as fifty-two degrees ; but a late spring does not import a deficient harvest, because Nature has the knack of making up for lost time ; and all these matters of heat and moisture seem to be attempered to the average needs of our soil and crops. Wheat is no longer much raised on the farms in Williamstown, nor rye ; com, oats, buckwheat, and barley are the principal cereals, while grass, potatoes, and the edible roots pretty much round out the circle of the agriculture; as orchards, small fruits, and garden vegetables are the main items of the horticulture. It is true that an impatient farmer in haying-time, or a gardener whose weeds are getting the start of his plants, may sometimes take up the burden, if not the words, of Shakspeare, — " And the rain it raineth every day " ; but in the whole upshot of the season it is generally allowed by all, that the climatic influences of all sorts are wisely ordained, even in reference to the requisites of the average products of the soil ; and in all kinds of seasons, early or late, dry 1 See the Lowell Lectures entitled "Agriculture," of Deacon Alexander Hyde ; Chester Dewey, in Introduction to Field's Berkshire ; and I liave derivetl information as to soils from my colleague, Chadbourne, and my father-iu-Iaw, James Smedley. 66 ORIGINS IN WILLIAMSTOWN. or wet, warm or cold, it is the joy of the springtime to watch the vegetation creep slowly up the sides of the mountains to their top. Mount Williams, for example, rises about 2400 feet directly up from the Hoosac and the meadow on which Eort Massachusetts once stood ; and there is room, accordingly, for many zones of vegetation between the valley and the summit, and in a late season the foliage on the trees at the very top is not visible in the valley before the 8th of June. Ephraim Williams, Senior, who officially traversed many parts of the present town of Williamstown in 1739, then in its primeval wildness, in obedience to a Resolve of the General Court of Massa- chusetts, did not put upon record in his report to that body any detailed description of its territory, or any transcript at length of his own impressions in regard to it ; and just about the same may be said of Richard Hazen, surveyor for Massachusetts and New Hamp- shire, who looked down upon its area, certainly with admiration, from what we now call Mount Hazen, two years later than that, in 1741 ; still we fortunately possess from the polished pens of three gentle- men of times long subsequent to theirs, all of them comparatively strangers to the place, and each of them differing widely from the others in social position and general standpoint, their personal impressions received by casual views of our valley and of its envi- ronment ; and this initial chapter of our book on Williamstown will now be brought to a conclusion by the use of a quotation from each of these three gentlemen, of whom but one was a native of this country, and one of the other two only a transient traveller through it in 1883, recording afterwards in a pleasant volume what he saw and what he thought about it at the time. James McCosh, a Scotchman till 1868, then a long time president of the College of New Jersey and resident of Princeton, wrote of Williamstown as follows : " It is placed on a knoll in the heart of a capacious hollow, surrounded with imposing mountains. It struck me as a spot at which the Last Judgment might be held, with the universe assembled on the slopes of the encircling hills." Daniel Pidgeon, F.G.S., an English tourist, with a sharp eye in his head for natural objects, and with an uncommon faculty for interpreting the social conditions of the New World, thus frankly jots down his own impressions : — A charming stage ride of four miles, following the Hoosac River past the foot of Greylock, brought me to Williamstown, which peaceful and academical vil- lage lies buried, like Adams, among mountains, here enclosing a lovely triangular valley, where the Green River joins the Hoosac in its course to the Hudson. SITUATION. 67 The town is built on a boldly undulating plateau of limestone, which, rising to a considerable height from the lower ground, affords magnificent views of the encircling hills, whose forest-covered crests tower to heights of tliree and four thousand feet. The valley is wholly settled by farmers ; there is not a manu- factory and hardly a retail shop in the village, whose pretty white bungalows rise from park-like and elm-shaded stretches of turf, while the undulating main street is bordered at intervals by the halls, chapel, museum, and library of Wil- liams College. The college buildings are for the most part plain and without any academic air, but, spite of a chapel like the conventicle of an English country town, a very unpretentious library, and a number of barrack-like " halls" where the men live, its romantic situation, park-enfolded homes, and peaceful atmos- phere, place Williamstown easily ahead of every other New England village for beauty. The *♦ secret societies" are nothing more than students' clubs, which affect a little mystery in their organization, and are distinguished by crypto- gramic titles, whose meaning is only known to the members. Thus the letters, A, A, *, carved on the facade of the meeting-room of one of the largest socie- ties, may possible signify aev 5eivoi