date 
 
 UNIVERSITY of CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES 
 LIBRARY
 
 THE 
 
 GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 2 
 
 A PRACTICAL MANUAL 
 
 FOR ALL WHO GARDEN 
 
 ERNEST BRAUNTON 
 
 LANDSCAPE DESIGNER 
 AND HORTICULTURIST 
 
 CULTIVATOR PUBLISHING CO. 
 
 LOS ANGELES, CAL. 
 
 1915
 
 Copyright 1915 
 
 by 
 Cultivator Publishing Company 
 
 and 
 Ernest Braunton
 
 S6 
 453 
 
 A Poeft Laureate's AC&TO 
 
 T IS neither wise, nor tender, 
 nor loving, to remit to others, 
 however expert, the supreme 
 care of one's garden. You will 
 tend yours with your own 
 hands, and discover its needs 
 with your own heart, and if, in 
 doing so, you have to withdraw 
 yourselves sometimes, more than accords 
 with modern wont, into rural seclusion, your 
 social instincts will not thereby be starved, 
 nor your share in the graces and charities 
 of life thereby be curtailed. You will find 
 much resemblance between flowers and hu- 
 man beings, for they too grow reserved un- 
 der coldness or mal-treatment, and respond 
 with almost feminine alacrity to every sym- 
 pathetic endeavor to apprehend them." 
 Alfred Austin.
 
 A CALIFORNIA GARDEN SCENE 
 Mission Santa Barbara
 
 T HE 
 
 GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 27^"3^ 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 PLANNING THE PLACE 
 
 Let us begin our garden making in a sympathetic 
 spirit, seeking to cultivate contentment and peace of 
 mind as well as the soil ; to love plants and take pleas- 
 ure in caring for them ; to find relief and relaxation 
 in all gardening operations. 
 
 Let us do the best we can with what is at hand or 
 may easily be found nor strive for the spectacular 
 nor regard our work as a task or as a weighty prob- 
 lem. In short, let us be happy, however much or lit- 
 tle we may do, for if we make our garden beautiful 
 we shall learn to love it, whether our efforts be con- 
 fined to the care of a window-box or lavished upon 
 broad acres. 
 
 Let us be governed by a desire to please and sat- 
 isfy, not alone ourselves, but others ; not by gaining 
 unusual or unnatural results, but by making all so 
 simple and homelike that every visitor will enjoy 
 the quiet restfulness and sufficiency of the whole, 
 the charm of response to every simple and natural 
 desire. Do not attempt too much. Before beginning 
 the plan for every garden should have a plan be- 
 fore any work is done set down upon paper all the 
 things you feel an attractive homelike garden should 
 have. 
 
 This does not mean a list of the plants and flowers
 
 8 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 you wish such are mere incidentals the material 
 with which you build and finish the picture. Begin 
 with fundamentals. Lightly sketch where paths are 
 needed, and have none you do not need. Provide 
 for comfort, interest, even instruction. Will you 
 have an arbor, one or more garden seats, a gazing 
 globe, and where? Are you interested in sundials? 
 If so, have one by all means, for there is no place on 
 earth where the sun shines more than in California, 
 and therefore we may make more use of them than 
 other and less fortunate peoples. Our mild and 
 equable climate allows us to get about the garden 
 with pleasure nearly every day throughout the year. 
 Have some sort of a water garden, even if no more 
 than a half-barrel submerged to a level with the 
 garden plane; for in a semiarid land having few 
 natural streams, ponds, or lakes, an aquatic feature, 
 however tiny, cannot fail to attract and interest and 
 lend strength and balance to the landscape. Uncon- 
 sciously we derive a certain amount of comfort from 
 proximity to water, for of all natural elements it is 
 the one most necessary to the preservation of life 
 and health, therefore its simple presence is sooth- 
 ing and satisfying. 
 
 WHAT TO AVOID 
 
 Do not group garden accessories and conveniences 
 too closely about the house, for every house has at 
 least one porch built for use. Therefore place seats, 
 arbors, etc., as far from the residence as is conven- 
 ient, for then you avoid any suggestion of competi- 
 tion. 
 
 Likewise, and for similar reasons, place ponds, 
 pools and rock gardens quite remote. The house, its 
 interior and immediate surroundings, have, or 
 should have, charms peculiarly their own, and each
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 9 
 
 part of the garden should in some degree rival their 
 attractions. A really fundamental or basic garden 
 spirit should prevail throughout the grounds so that 
 visitors as well as yourself will feel that the dwell- 
 
 A COVERED GARDEN SEAT 
 
 ing and its contents are not the only permanent at- 
 tractions on the premises. 
 
 Do not place any object or strive for an effect 
 merely because another has such things. Have your 
 garden smack of originality. If you have elsewhere 
 observed something you desire do not have an exact 
 reproduction, but show your personal taste in slight 
 changes and modifications, weaving in throughout
 
 10 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 the whole a thread, even though slight, of originality. 
 In all phases and considerations, even in the choice 
 of trees, shrubs, vines, etc., that you use, please your- 
 self, yet be guided by the experience of others to the 
 extent of choosing from a list of plants known to 
 thrive in your locality or under similar conditions. 
 The most successful garden is the one that gives its 
 owner the greatest pleasure no matter what he 
 grows. 
 
 WHAT TO GROW 
 
 Begin garden planting in harmony with natural 
 conditions and needs. Grow only plants that are 
 known to do well under conditions of soil and climate 
 comparable with those obtaining in your garden, 
 more particularly trees and shrubs, for these make 
 the foundation and framework of the garden. If 
 you indulge in a few novelties or tender plants in 
 herbaceous material, they are but incidentals, and 
 if failure results the garden plan is not interfered 
 with, for the fundamental work still stands. 
 
 Do not have many kinds of plants, for miscellane- 
 ous mixtures seriously detract from the restfulness, 
 simplicity and dignity of the garden. If you have 
 trial grounds for experimental planting then collec- 
 tions of many kinds are desirable, but for a home 
 garden you should rather have many of a kind. In 
 the former numerous labels are a necessity; in the 
 home garden there should be none. Have a plan of 
 your garden on paper; note thereon the position of 
 every plant by number. Jot down these key num- 
 bers on the margin of the plan, on a separate sheet, 
 or, better still, keep a garden book of records. After 
 each number place both botanical and popular name 
 of plant. Then labels may come and labels may 
 go, but the records remain forever. When you have
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 11 
 
 the work under way as herein outlined and have 
 become really interested, then you are indeed under 
 the magic spell of the true garden spirit, the per- 
 fect peace (for the time being) that overcometh all 
 troubles and sorrows, that undefined and undefinable 
 natural charm that woos and wins every impres- 
 sionable soul seeking to build the garden beautiful. 
 
 LANDSCAPE OR NATURAL GARDENING 
 It is nearly 300 years since Francis Bacon said: 
 "God Almighty first planted a garden, and indeed it 
 is the purest of human pleasures. It is the greatest 
 refreshment to the spirit of man, without which 
 buildings and palaces are but gross handiworks ; and 
 a man shall see that when ages grow to civility and 
 elegancy, men come to build stately sooner than to 
 garden finely, as if gardening were the greater per- 
 fection." 
 
 There are but three styles of gardening though 
 there are many types. These three are : Formal, or 
 architectural gardening; natural, or landscape gar- 
 dening; and picturesque gardening; the last but a 
 blending or combination of the other two, which are 
 after all the only distinct styles universally recog- 
 nized. It is the natural or landscape gardening that 
 we deal with mainly, incorporating only so much of 
 the formal as the problem under consideration seems 
 to require. In landscape gardening we are governed 
 by many rules, of which but three are really funda- 
 mental, the others being subsidiary, though all are 
 dictated by nature. These three are in the order of 
 importance : Preserve open lawn centers ; plant in 
 masses and not isolated; avoid straight lines. A 
 brief explanation of each rule is here given.
 
 12 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 PRESERVE OPEN LAWN CENTERS 
 
 A front yard cluttered up with trees and shrubs is 
 never attractive. The simpler picture is the stronger 
 one. The lawn should be left as large and as unob- 
 structed as possible. Many planters, having at their 
 disposal but a small front lawn, usually (and unfor- 
 tunately) bisected by a cement walk to the front 
 door, feel it incumbent upon them to completely fill 
 the two limited areas by planting some large-grow- 
 ing palms, or other trees, usually two Phoenix Cana- 
 riensis. Having thus planted it is quite impossible 
 to stand in the center of your landscape and see 
 about you, as you should be able to do, a fine variety 
 of plant life. 
 
 Those who have lived in the Mississippi Valley or 
 in states farther east will doubtless recall seeing lit- 
 tle openings or natural clearings in the woods, con- 
 sisting of one or many acres. Though in the midst 
 of the forest, the floor or greensward remains invio- 
 late, not a tree or shrub upon it. Grass and herba- 
 ceous flowering plants form the cover or carpet; 
 bushes and larger shrubs edge it about; next small 
 trees; and then the forest giants frame the whole, 
 making a perfect amphitheater; a miniature land- 
 scape, perhaps, yet complete in every detail. Then 
 may the joyous discoverer stand in the center and see 
 all about him the varied wonders of the local native 
 vegetation. Many a time and oft, in boyhood's 
 happy days, has the author been overjoyed with the 
 finding of such beauty spots and stood spellbound 
 and awed by the overwhelming attractiveness of the 
 scene. Would that puny man could build gardens of 
 equal charm ! 
 
 Allow your lawn centers to remain open and clear 
 that the whole yard may appear as large as possible ;
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 13 
 
 AN IDEAL PLAN FOOTPATH ONLY
 
 14 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 generous, yet well and fittingly framed with plants, 
 shrubs, and trees on all sides. If you must have a 
 large, spreading palm on a small lot, place it at the 
 side of the house, well toward the rear, or, better 
 still, in the back yard where it may also serve as a 
 shade tree. Yet even there the same rules properly 
 should obtain that govern the planting in front. 
 Better to use fan palms, if you must have palms, or 
 plant the more beautiful Cocos plumosa, of which 
 we have some hardy varieties. Avoid, if possible, 
 cutting your front lawn in two equal parts unless 
 a purely formal effect is desired. Rather have the 
 front walk well to one side and thus gain a larger 
 single lawn. This procedure will also allow a grace- 
 ful, sweeping curve in the approach to the front 
 entrance, a pleasing variation from the usual inar- 
 tistic straight-from-gate-to-door plan. 
 
 PLANT IN MASSES 
 
 Plant in masses and not in isolated specimens 
 dotted about here and there; group instead of scat- 
 tering. Orchards are systematically planted for 
 economic reasons, giving each tree a like amount of 
 space. This insures uniformity of growth and bear- 
 ing and ease and economy in cultivation, irrigation 
 and harvesting. No such considerations govern the 
 planting of ornamentals. On the contrary, art, with 
 a due regard for utility, is the inspiration of the 
 landscape designer. Therefore, have tree and shrub- 
 bery masses irregular in outline, in gently-flowing 
 curves, not abrupt, nor yet in straight lines. 
 
 Trees, shrubs and lowly plants should be grouped, 
 each kind by itself, for nature so disposes them, and 
 we should aim to copy nature. In this way you will 
 not only get artistic and natural effects, but also 
 decided character, for planted in this manner every
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 15 
 
 AN IDEAL PLAN WITH DRIVE
 
 16 
 
 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 part of the garden stands for one thing, and one 
 only, and there are no duplications in plan or plant- 
 ing. There- 
 fore, every 
 step forward 
 marks an ad- 
 vance into 
 something 
 new, and 
 from one end 
 to the other 
 "no scene is 
 twice seen," 
 nor anything 
 either in ma- 
 terial or ef- 
 fectmetwith 
 a second 
 time. It 
 would nei- 
 ther be prop- 
 er, nor pleas- 
 ing, to find 
 roses and 
 carnations, 
 or pines and 
 acacias scat- 
 tered thr'gh- 
 out the gar- 
 den, for all 
 parts would 
 then contain 
 similar ef- 
 
 THIS ILLUSTRATION SHOWS HOW A CITY u 
 
 LOT MAY BE LAID OUT TO CONFORM character. 
 
 WITH ALL THE RULES OF LAND- 
 SCAPE GARDENING
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 17 
 
 be no incentive or stimulus for a walk about a gar- 
 den where one glance at any part would suffice to 
 show the plants and their disposition obtaining in 
 all parts. Some of the finest examples of beauty in 
 arrangement may be observed in the shrubbery 
 masses on shaded hillsides in the wilds. 
 
 AVOID STRAIGHT LINES 
 
 Nature makes no straight lines; for whether it 
 be the canopy above, the horizon about us, the shore 
 of ocean or lake, the course of streams, the lines of 
 a horse, bird, or other animal, beautiful curves, in 
 variety, everywhere abound. Without some specific 
 guide, such as a taut cord or a straight-edge, man 
 cannot make a straight line. It must then be appar- 
 ent that nature never expected he should try. 
 
 Those who have trampled over freshly fallen snow, 
 though intent upon going in a straight line from one 
 point to another, may easily descry, by looking back- 
 ward upon their course, the most beautiful and 
 smoothly-flowing curves traced upon earth's other- 
 wise spotless mantle. Even the paths of wild or 
 domestic animals are of most artistic and gentle 
 departure from the monotonous straight line. 
 
 Nevertheless, we should not violate the dictates 
 of common sense by instituting a curve or curves in 
 a walk but a few paces long. Curves should not be 
 made that would subject the maker to ridicule, yet 
 they are, otherwise, always permissible, and advis- 
 able, if it is possible to have them without showing 
 a strained effect or too great abruptness. If it is 
 found advisable or necessary to make a short or 
 sharp curve, plant in the "bay" a large shrub or 
 tree, or a group or object of a large and permanent 
 nature, made to appear as though present before the 
 path and therefore making the curve a necessity in
 
 18 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 order to get around this previously occupied point. 
 GENERAL ADVICE 
 
 Assuming that the garden plat, or at least the part 
 immediately about the residence, is fairly level, the 
 surface should be so graded, if possible, that water 
 will drain from the house toward all points of the 
 compass. The soil for this purpose may usually be 
 taken from near the outer boundaries, or, better still, 
 from an excavation for a pond, something without 
 which no large orderly garden is complete. If you 
 have plenty of soil the lawns may be filled up in and 
 about the center to give a rounded appearance, for 
 natural lawns are seldom or never smooth and flat. 
 The surface should also drain slightly toward the 
 pond site so that the presence of water there will 
 appear natural, being in a depression. 
 
 In rebuilding a garden turn under a liberal 
 supply of stable manure over the entire area. If 
 any large trees or shrubs are in the way, leave them 
 if it can be done without too great a sacrifice and 
 make the subsequent or new planting conform so 
 far as possible. Place the pond, if you are to have 
 one, so it will not be shaded by buildings, trees or 
 other large objects; for aquatic life, either animal 
 or vegetable, does not succeed in shade. Planting 
 at the waterside should be confined to the north side 
 and northerly corners. At all other points keep 
 large plants farther away to allow of unobstructed 
 sunshine on the water throughout the day. 
 
 The garden should be enclosed on sides and back 
 with a wall, hedge, or vine-covered fence. Along 
 the front it is more a matter of taste, though if the 
 property belonged to the author the fence or hedge 
 should inclose it on all sides ; low on front and sides 
 to rear of house, and much higher around the back
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 19 
 
 yard. Better still would be a low wall along the 
 front and sides, rising to a greater height opposite 
 the rear corners of the residence. 
 
 Aside from providing privacy, snugness, and se- 
 clusion, such inclosure will keep out would-be in- 
 truders, dogs, paper, leaves and other wind-blown 
 rubbish, and catch and hold much of the dust which 
 otherwise would reach the house. It also allows the 
 garden to be finished right out to the edge, which 
 it could not be were it not divided from surrounding 
 property. If the lot is deep the back yard may be 
 cut off by a hedge, but if this is done put it as far 
 back as possible and as low as its purpose will 
 allow, for a large yard is indicative of good taste, 
 liberal ideas, generosity and good-fellowship. The 
 landscape possibilities, too, are much greater, and 
 the general effect more impressive, without division. 
 
 FORMAL GARDENS 
 
 If a formal, Italian, Japanese or other style of 
 garden is to be incorporated in the plan of a large 
 landscape, it should be set off by a wall, hedge, or 
 fence, so as not to be brought into contrast with the 
 larger and more natural prospect or outlook. For- 
 mal or architectural gardens should be built close 
 to the dwelling so that all architectural effects are 
 kept together. 
 
 UTILITY PLATS 
 
 Utility areas should also be screened from the 
 main prospect, for clotheslines, ash barrels, wood- 
 piles, compost heaps and rubbish piles must not be 
 in view of visitors to the pleasure garden. It is 
 often possible to use pergolas to connect two separate 
 or distinct parts of a garden and also have them as 
 a shield to obscure undesirable features or acces-
 
 20 
 
 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 series, but never erect a pergola unless its purpose 
 is apparent to even the casual observer. In no other 
 way do Californians so often violate good taste in 
 
 A CLASSIC PERGOLA 
 
 garden building as by the erection of purposeless 
 pergolas. 
 
 THE BACK YARD 
 
 The back yard should be attractive, interesting, 
 and far more homelike and comfortable than the 
 front yard. The same rules of planning should
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 21 
 
 apply, but they need not be so closely observed. The 
 back yard should be largely a "family affair." If 
 there is insufficient room at the side of the house, to- 
 ward the rear, for tennis court or croquet grounds, 
 where these are desired, the back yard is the proper 
 place for them. 
 
 Here is the part upon which to lavish your homely 
 affections. Have a place in which to swing a ham- 
 mock and have at least one arbor or covered seat or 
 a playhouse for the children, and if there is sufficient 
 room, have them all, and more. Here arbors may 
 be covered with grapes or other vines of economic 
 value. The ornamental trees and shrubs may be of 
 orange, loquat, avocado, guava, carissa and others 
 bearing edible crops. The herbs may be artichoke, 
 rhubarb and parsley. In the borders may be all 
 sorts of vegetables in clumps and patches; still it 
 may conform more or less to the first rule of land- 
 scaping preserve open centers. 
 
 At the extreme rear should be the chief back- 
 ground of the whole picture, a background of some 
 solidarity, whether of fruit trees or a tangled mass 
 of vines over a tall fence. If at the south end of 
 the premises the taller shade trees may be used, 
 planted for ornament, yet where their shade may 
 contribute to the comfort of the household. It may 
 be that a lawn is desirable even though it prove a 
 bleaching ground for the family washing and is cen- 
 tered by a revolving clothes dryer. If grass is 
 thought to involve too much labor in caretaking or 
 too much dampness through watering, here is a 
 chance for lippia, which needs no summer watering, 
 and the more it is trod upon the better it will qualify 
 as a mere soil cover to protect all from either dust 
 or mud, or both. If ash and garbage cans, compost
 
 22 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 heaps, or hotbeds are necessary or advisable, screen 
 them off from the general view by means of shrubs 
 or vine-covered trellises, but do not give up making 
 the back yard interesting and attractive for the rea- 
 son that these things are present. Recognize utility, 
 but do not banish order, comfort and all display of 
 artistic effects. 
 
 UTILITY SHOULD GOVERN. 
 
 So far as regards approaches and walks to and 
 from buildings, the object of their introduction is 
 sufficiently apparent; but, in laying out pleasure 
 grounds, it is a too common practice to introduce 
 walks for the mere purpose of variety. This is a 
 very questionable reason at best, and not always 
 successfully accomplished ; but even in cases of this 
 kind, they should appear to aim for some definite 
 object, or lead to points of sufficient importance to 
 suggest their utility. The guiding principle in de- 
 signing the position of roads and walks should be 
 utility. Nature forms no roads. They are the 
 works of men and animals, and would undoubtedly 
 always proceed in nearly straight lines from point 
 to point, if obstructions of various kinds did not 
 interfere and cause deviations. Necessity will there- 
 fore suggest where and how they should be intro- 
 duced.
 
 1. NATIVE STRAWBERRY LAWN, Fragaria Chiloensis 
 2. BACKYARD LAWN, Lippia canescens
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 LAWNS AND SOIL COVERS 
 
 The work of making a fine greensward is the most 
 particular piece of handicraft in the garden, for it 
 is the actual foundation and will never present a 
 smoother or more even surface than the day it is 
 sown. 
 
 Slight inequalities of surface will become more 
 pronounced with time; soft spots will settle, while 
 hard places will always remain the highest. Lawn 
 surfaces should therefore be made as smooth and 
 even as possible; mistakes can be remedied only by 
 taking up the sod and making the lawn over. In 
 England they say it takes a hundred years to make 
 a good lawn, and one eastern coast writer says: 
 "Four things are required to make a good lawn; 
 time, soil, climate and intelligent labor." Neither 
 expression fits California, for we do not need time, 
 as it is understood east of the Rockies. 
 
 The greensward is the one permanent feature of 
 a yard ; therefore, let us have the very best obtain- 
 able. Our flower beds may be moved or the plants 
 in other parts of the garden changed every year, 
 but we expect the lawn to remain ever the same. 
 One of the first essentials for a lawn is good soil. 
 Many complain that they have black adobe and "it 
 is so hard to do anything with," but it is the best 
 medium in which to grow a fine lawn, even as sand 
 is the poorest. In enriching the soil it is well to 
 understand that it cannot be made too rich for blue 
 grass. After one gets the surface in proper condi-
 
 24 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 tion, the sowing and after care cannot be too care- 
 fully attended to ; it is a job worthy of a first-class 
 lawnmaker, and no one who can afford to hire help 
 should attempt his own lawnmaking. 
 
 MAKING THE LAWN 
 
 Close observation for a score of years has con- 
 vinced the writer that for California in general soil 
 prepared in March and sown early in April will 
 result in giving us the best of lawns, varying the 
 time according to season and prevailing tempera- 
 tures in your section. Autumn lawnmaking is usual- 
 ly attended with an equal degree of success, but in 
 cold sections the young grass is often caught "in 
 the milk" stage by severe frosts and sometimes 
 killed, though to offset such risk the season offers 
 the welcome rains, -for spring-sown lawns necessi- 
 tate careful artificial sprinkling. 
 
 The first work should be a deep and thorough stir- 
 ring of the soil, without which no crop will grow, 
 whether it be grass or trees. When stirring the 
 soil mix in a liberal amount of well-rotted stable 
 manure (four inches is not too much) and do not 
 be content with merely turning it under where it 
 will lie in chunks for years to come. The full value 
 of fertilizers comes only from thorough incorpora- 
 tion with the soil. Gardeners too often turn under 
 raw bone meal and leave it, a handful in a place. 
 Used in this way it does not all become available 
 to plant life for several years. It should be evenly 
 scattered and thoroughly mixed with the soil and 
 even then it is largely fertilizing for future years. 
 
 Stable manures, while more readily available to 
 the plant at any stage, should undergo the same 
 thorough incorporation, for after a lawn is once 
 sown you cannot get under it to stir the soil except
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 25 
 
 at the added expense of a new lawn. Nearly all 
 fertilizer works make a special fertilizer for this 
 preliminary use, which has the advantage of contain- 
 ing no seeds of weeds or Bermuda grass, which often 
 prove before eradicated more expensive than all 
 other work connected with the making of new lawns. 
 
 Superphosphate. 
 
 Lime. f^^^.S&IR^* 11 **^,- Thomas slag 
 
 Ammonium sulphate. ^^MT^. X X X XH*^3W. Barnyard manure 
 
 and guano. 
 
 Lime nitrogen (qal- 
 cium cyanamtd). 
 
 Potash salts. 
 
 Nitrateof W da. ^J^=- -^CT Bone mea , 
 
 INCOMPATIBLES IN FERTILIZER MIXTURES 
 
 The danger of indiscriminate mixing of fertilizers is shown in the 
 accompanying diagram taken from Farmers' Bulletin 388. Some 
 materials may be mixed with beneficial results, others not. The dia- 
 gram indicates what fertilizer materials may not be safely mixed. The 
 dark lines unite materials which should never be mixed, the double 
 lines those which should be applied immediately after mixing, and the 
 single lines those which may be mixed at any time. 
 
 Because of such seeds being present, all stable ma- 
 nures should be thoroughly rotted. Never use fresh 
 or unseasoned manure in lawn work if avoidable 
 either before or after sowing or for fertilizing old 
 lawns. 
 
 After fertilizing and spading let the soil rest until 
 dry enough to work, then tread carefully over every
 
 26 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 foot of it with your feet close together. This is not 
 much of a job on small lawns. On large lawns a 
 roller is used, but this does not find the small soft 
 spots as well as your feet, and sufficient time may 
 be spent on a small lawn to do the work properly. 
 This treading will insure an even surface and no 
 future settling. Next rake the low spots full of soil 
 and make firm, leaving the surface just as smooth 
 as a floor if possible, for as you leave it so will it 
 always remain. See that the surface soil is pul- 
 verized as finely as possible. If the surface is dry 
 when you wish to sow the seed, give it a very light 
 sprinkling of water and wait an hour or two for it 
 to get past the sticky stage and then sow the seed. 
 Sow very early or very late in the day, if in a windy 
 section, as perfect calm is needed for proper dis- 
 tribution of the light grass seed. 
 
 Begin sowing at the rear, using boards to walk 
 on as you "retreat forward," for after the surface 
 is ready for sowing you must not set foot upon it 
 until the first mowing, and even this is best done 
 from boards. After sowing the seed and raking it 
 in, lightly and gently, sow over the surface an inch 
 or so of well-rotted manure which has been sifted 
 through a sieve of not more than one inch mesh. 
 Planing-mill shavings will also do, but they should 
 be thoroughly wetted a few days in advance of use. 
 After this give the lawn a good but very careful 
 watering. 
 
 This first watering, as well as subsequent ones, 
 must be given with extreme care and the water uni- 
 formly distributed in a fine spray so seeds will not 
 be washed about or little channels made in the soil 
 covering or in the surface soil itself. As soon as 
 weeds are large enough to pull, get boards to kneel
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 27 
 
 on and weed the grass or whatever soil cover you 
 have sown. Better use two wide boards, one to kneel 
 on and the other for your feet, or the toes of your 
 shoes will spoil much new lawn. 
 
 When the young grass becomes tall enough to 
 make the least cutting possible, get at it with a sharp 
 mower and cut thereafter as often as growth makes 
 it possible, for only by so doing will you quickly get 
 a perfect carpet of living green. Either mow the 
 first time from boards or tread very carefully flat- 
 footed while doing the work or you will either 
 seriously tear up the surface or make it full of ugly 
 indentations. To overcome this trouble it is advis- 
 able to roll the new lawn several times with a light 
 roller just as soon as the grass is well up ; certainly 
 not later than immediately after the first mowing. 
 One pound of blue grass seed will sow 200 square 
 feet, or an area of 10x20 feet. One pound of white 
 clover seed will sow 300 square feet, or an area of 
 10x30 feet. 
 
 CARE OF LAWNS 
 
 During even the hottest weather the average 
 lawn is injudiciously watered. Few home owners 
 begin the care of lawns properly or methodically. 
 From the time the young grass appears the inch or 
 two of top soil is given light sprinklings daily, with 
 the result that all roots remain near the surface. 
 If such a lawn goes unsprinkled for even one day 
 during hot weather, it shows distress. After a lawn 
 is well established water only when the grass needs 
 it and then do it most thoroughly. Then, when the 
 surface supply is exhausted, the roots will go down 
 into the moist subsoil in search of water. So treated 
 the grass will finally reach such a condition that if
 
 28 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 left unwatered for a few days, or even a week, it will 
 not suffer permanent harm. 
 
 Lawns should be cut frequently during hot weath- 
 er, about once a week, for the reason that it is advis- 
 able to make the least possible change in general 
 exposure. If left until very long and then closely 
 cut it will suffer from sunburn in both blade and 
 root. Do not needlessly expose the roots to the sum- 
 mer's sun; therefore, during the hottest weather 
 keep the cutter high, leaving the grass rather long 
 throughout the season, but mow frequently, allowing 
 the short clippings to fall down among the standing 
 blades to form a mulch for the roots. If the cut 
 grass mildews or moulds, as it may during cool or 
 cloudy weather, it may be raked off and subsequent 
 cuttings caught in a hopper, but with the return of 
 sunshine remove the hopper and allow the mulch to 
 re-form. 
 
 LAWN GRASSES 
 
 All keen observers will agree that the fine tex- 
 ture, rich green color and smooth even growth of 
 Poa pratensis, the Kentucky blue grass, prove it to 
 be more desirable as a ground cover than any other 
 known, and it should be used wherever conditions 
 are favorable to establishment and maintenance of 
 lawn grass. The most closely similar species 
 is P. arachnifera, a Texan species. A sub- 
 stitute, used in cheap mixtures, is P. compressa, 
 the Canadian blue grass. The latter is flatter, more 
 wiry and bluer than Kentucky grass and is good on 
 dry sand, clay, or poor soils where the others do not 
 thrive. P. nemoralis, the wood meadow grass, is 
 good for shady places in woodlands, yet resistant to 
 heat. In the Eastern states Agrostis canina, the 
 Rhode Island bent grass, makes a fine close turf of
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 29 
 
 good color on sandy seasides and should thrive in 
 California. Eastward they also have a "beach" 
 grass known to dealers and botanists as Ammophila 
 arenaria, or arundinacea, that is successfully used 
 on seacoast embankments to hold dry, loose soils and 
 drifting sands. In California the Australian rye 
 grass is much used for shady places and for lawns 
 where less care and water can be given a lazy 
 man's grass, but inferior to Kentucky blue grass. 
 
 WHITE OR DUTCH CLOVER 
 
 White or Dutch clover is often used to mix with 
 blue grass in lawns. The clover seed, being much 
 heavier, should be sown separately and in quantity 
 about one-fourth. Clover is also excellent for con- 
 trol of Bermuda grass. Many prefer a lawn wholly 
 of white clover, and if so, a pound of seed will sow 
 very nearly twice the area that a pound of grass seed 
 will. It thrives with less water and is superior to 
 Kentucky grass for sandy soils and also does better 
 close to the ocean where it requires still less water 
 than it does inland. 
 
 Prof. E. J. Wickson says that clover is favorably 
 regarded by him for the reason that it is more ten- 
 der than grass and therefore more easily cut with a 
 dull lawn mower, a type of machine he claims to 
 have constantly and permanently on hand, though 
 boasting of no exclusiveness in the ownership of 
 such equipment. 
 
 Clover lawns usually need inoculation with nitri- 
 fying bacteria. There are several ways of getting 
 this. The most primitive, most troublesome, yet 
 most effective way is to get soil from a very healthy, 
 vigorous growth of clover and scatter it over the 
 new or sick clover lawn and wash it in with water. 
 This is easy if you know such a lawn that you can
 
 30 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 disturb to obtain a quart or so of surface soil. The 
 easier way is to buy a small amount of some com- 
 mercial preparation from a seed store. These are 
 effective and simply applied. All clover lawns should 
 be so treated if the growth is weakly or of poor color. 
 
 LIPPIA CANESCENS 
 
 In many sections Lippia canescens, distributed in 
 California as L. repens, is rapidly forcing out all 
 other plants used for lawn making, yet people in 
 semiarid sections or where the water supply is 
 limited continue to struggle with blue grass. Lippia 
 is no doubt the most drouth resistant plant we have 
 in our gardens and should be treated accordingly. 
 That it will stand any California conditions is evi- 
 dent from the following extract from the annual 
 report of the Arizona Experiment Station : 
 
 "The fog-fruit has again proved its superior qual- 
 ities as a lawn plant, since during the past summer 
 it was able to endure all ordinary drouth conditions 
 without harm, also maintaining itself for eight 
 months on the mesa with less than two inches of 
 rainfall. When grown side by side with Bermuda 
 grass it proved superior in every respect. To secure 
 the quickest as well as the most satisfactory results 
 on the lawn, the soil should be spaded, mixed with 
 well-rotted manure, and the plants freely watered. 
 During the present summer the lawns of lippia along 
 Third Street, Tucson, planted in ordinary mesa soil 
 and exposed to our intense conditions, have pre- 
 served a carpet of green which has often been beau- 
 tifully variegated with the rose purple blossoms." 
 
 Every year adds to the reputation of lippia for 
 lawn purposes under conditions unfavorable to 
 grass, for it may be found thriving in almost all 
 soils and in as varied locations. For those who wish
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 31 
 
 a lawn at the seaside nothing will equal it as a 
 ground cover. No one who has taken note of it on 
 the Coronado Hotel grounds would bother with any 
 other plant for lawns of great extent near the ocean 
 front or on sands of this nature. It is the only plant 
 that could be used to effectively hold the loose soil 
 there and preserve a perfect carpet over the whole. 
 Intending planters should remember that seeds can- 
 not be procured, cuttings must be used to establish 
 a growth. It also is not hardy enough to endure 
 freezing weather, being native to the tropics. 
 
 TERRACE COVERINGS 
 
 A great diversity of opinion prevails as to what 
 is the most effective covering for banks and terraces, 
 both as regards appearances and soil-staying quali- 
 ties. Some prefer roses like Wichuriana or Chero- 
 kee, but if the soil be friable, too much of it is 
 washed away before the vines form a ground cover. 
 To prevent washing from excessive watering it is 
 best, above each plant, to set in the soil an ordinary 
 fruit or tomato can with several nail holes punctur- 
 ing the bottom. These may quickly be filled from a 
 hose and allowed to remain permanently, for in time 
 the vines will cover them and they will still catch a 
 goodly share of the falling water and allow it to 
 slowly percolate into the soil about the plant roots. 
 If either of the roses mentioned is used, it is best 
 to encourage growth in all directions and peg down 
 every foot or two feet of stem. A still better way 
 perhaps is to layer it. Scratch out narrow slots in 
 the earth a foot or more apart along the growing 
 stem, push the stem down into these places and pack 
 soil solidly on top. In time the points of contact 
 with the ground will take root and do much toward 
 making a solid, soil-staying bank covering.
 
 32 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 Others prefer the fine-leafed ice plant, Mesembry- 
 anthemum densum, but it is not a soil binder, merely 
 a cover that does not root except at one point, the 
 main stem of the plant. The stems spread out in 
 every direction for several feet, so that a bank eight 
 feet high may easily be covered by plants set on the 
 top level. Unless the soil beneath is very solid, al- 
 most rock, it will eventually by erosion wash into 
 gutters which each year become deeper until one is 
 surprised by an extensive and wholly unsuspected 
 landslide. This ice plant blossoms most profusely, 
 but the color is not a pleasing one, though there are 
 several larger leaved species with flowers in other 
 shades and colors. 
 
 Lippia canescens is a soil binder in the strictest 
 sense of the word, rooting at every node or joint, and 
 these are but two to four inches apart. Because of 
 this frequent rooting lippia makes a very good bank 
 cover and is each year receiving wider recognition 
 for this purpose. It is not necessary to mow or cut 
 it, for the plant is of prostrate habit, and with all 
 the encouragement we may give it the result is a 
 thick mat but three inches deep which will overhang 
 walls for several feet without supporting soil as 
 readily as will the ice plant. In rather cold locali- 
 ties the color becomes very dull in winter, and the 
 plant is occasionally somewhat damaged by frost, 
 often dropping its leaves, to be renewed in warmer 
 weather. 
 
 A prostrate juniper, English ivy, the "myrtle," 
 or vinca, common in other states, a native beach 
 strawberry, a creeping buttercup or ranunculus, and 
 quite a host of plants are available and effective as 
 soil covers either on flat surfaces or terrace banks.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 33 
 
 WEEDS AND FERTILIZERS 
 
 Of all weeds that infest the lawn no other is so 
 hard to control or eradicate as Bermuda grass, often 
 given such uncomplimentary names as "devil grass," 
 "witch grass," etc. After once becoming established 
 it cannot be got rid of except through making a new 
 lawn and very carefully removing every little piece 
 of the grass, but there are easy methods of control. 
 
 With a steel rake go over the lawn in late autumn 
 and drag forth the offending grass. All that is torn 
 up and not removed by raking may be cut off with a 
 mower. When you have repeated this performance 
 until it ceases to be a pleasure, sow some clover 
 seed, water it well and retire until spring. The Ber- 
 muda grass, being native to the tropics, will scarcely 
 grow at all during winter, and it will be late in sum- 
 mer before it is again noticeable, for its growth is 
 prostrate and will be somewhat enfeebled through 
 smothering under the rank, thick growth of clover. 
 You may repeat this method of control each year if 
 so desired, but once in three years will suffice to pre- 
 serve a neat appearance and effectively control the 
 Bermuda grass. 
 
 Seeds of this grass are often introduced through 
 use of manures from low-lying dairy districts, either 
 by spading in when lawnmaking or in top dressing 
 thereafter. Bermuda grass infests lowlands, espe- 
 cially rich bottom lands along streams "where kine 
 are wont to graze." It is therefore better to use only 
 well-rotted manure or have it wetted thoroughly and 
 turned over every day or two until weed seeds have 
 been burned out or started into active growth. It 
 may be best to depend upon commercial fertilizers, 
 and every dealer handles one or more brands spe- 
 cially prepared for lawn use. 
 
 Annual weeds may be controlled by frequent
 
 34 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 mowing, and many will be killed thereby. The re- 
 mainder can endure but to the end of summer when 
 death naturally ensues. Dandelions are a most seri- 
 ous pest in many lawns, and there seems to be no 
 better means of eradication than cutting off each 
 plant a couple of inches below the surface with an 
 old table knife sharpened to a square on the end. 
 Some control has been attained through spraying 
 with iron sulphate or copper sprays, but this method 
 is neither necessary nor feasible except on acreage. 
 
 Chickweed, sorrel, and many other nearly pros- 
 trate or lowly plants are at times serious pests and 
 yield readily to no treatment except pulling by hand. 
 Like moss they thrive best in somewhat shaded loca- 
 tions and prefer soils more or less acid. A liberal 
 application of air-slaked lime or wood ashes will 
 often aid in ridding the lawn of these pests and also 
 prove of benefit to grasses. 
 
 To return to fertilization, do not perform this work 
 in autumn, as grass grows but little in cold weather 
 and calls for no food, and if the temperature is low 
 none is available except through use of nitrate of 
 soda. Nearly all plant food is washed away by winter 
 rains, either off the land or down into the soil beyond 
 reach of grass roots. March is early enough for such 
 work in California; the heavier "carrying-off" rains 
 have then ceased, and the grass starts into active 
 growth, thereby indicating the need of food which it 
 could not use while lying dormant.
 
 THE AUSTRALIAN BLUE GUM 
 Eucalyptus globulus
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 TREES AND SHRUBS 
 
 The beautifying of home grounds is at all times 
 an important consideration. Inquiries as to varieties 
 to plant and methods of planting are received by the 
 author every month in the year. Nearly all these 
 questions are about trees and shrubs suitable for 
 this climate and their proper disposition in the home 
 grounds. 
 
 Trees and shrubs are planted about the dwelling 
 for shade, for shelter, to accentuate the beauty of 
 the building, to hide defects impossible of removal 
 or for general landscape effect. To secure these 
 ends a map of the grounds should be made in ad- 
 vance of planting and upon it should be marked the 
 parts to be screened from view, the views it is de- 
 sired to preserve or emphasize and the location of all 
 drives, walks, buildings and permanent fixtures and 
 accessories. The nature and needs of the soil should 
 then be carefully determined, proper means taken to 
 supply deficiencies, the species or varieties of trees 
 needed studiously selected and ordered from some 
 reliable nurseryman. 
 
 Each species has in its native habitat become 
 adapted to certain conditions of soil and climate, 
 and these generally are definitely known to every 
 professional plantsman and well posted nurseryman. 
 Trees planted in soils and climate unsuitable cannot 
 but fail to grow, however much care and ceremony 
 be observed in the planting. Luckily Californians 
 have an almost endless list from which to choose.
 
 36 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 The almost universal tendency in planting trees in 
 home grounds is to place them too closely about the 
 house and to plant too thickly, shutting out views 
 and light from the windows and cluttering up and 
 appropriating the whole yard, to the destruction of 
 landscape beauty. The better plan is to plant the 
 
 c 
 
 DETERMINING HEIGHT OP TREE 
 
 The height of a tree, a stack, or other object may, when not easily 
 measured directly, be found as follows : Set up a pole, as tall a one 
 as procurable, truly vertical ; find by sighting the point on the ground 
 where the line through the top of the object and of the pole cuts it. 
 Then the height of the object is in the same proportion to the height of 
 the pole as the distance from the object to the cutting point is to that 
 from the pole. Using the letters on the diagram, the height AB is to 
 
 CD, the height of the pole, as AE to CE. Thus AB = (CD X AE) ~- 
 
 CE. The point A must be directly below B, and the line AE must be 
 uniformly sloping ; it need not be horizontal. 
 
 larger trees and shrubs along the borders of the 
 place, low shrubs and herbaceous plants in the house 
 border, leaving spaces between house and boundary 
 border treeless. Plant in irregular masses rather 
 than in straight lines or as single specimens. 
 
 Care and experience are required to so plant trees 
 that they will not only live but thrive. It will prove 
 more satisfactory, and cheaper, to hire such work 
 done by an experienced gardener. In planting or 
 transplanting trees choose small rather than large 
 specimens. Dig large holes a day or a few days in
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 37 
 
 advance of planting. If for deciduous trees, unless 
 the soil is well saturated with rainwater, fill the 
 holes at once with water up to the brim. If for ev- 
 ergreen trees put in all or nearly all the soil before 
 filling with water. Then after the soil is settled dig 
 out the small hole necessary for the balled or potted 
 plant. Place the trees a little deeper in the soil than 
 they were in pot or nursery and do not use water to 
 firm the soil but water most thoroughly after plant- 
 ing is done. Keep the soil close about the tree free 
 from grass or weeds. Remember there is no best 
 tree for all purposes; every street, lawn and lot 
 should receive special study as to its requirements. 
 The condition and nature of the soil, the size of lot or 
 width of street, the kind of buildings and style of 
 architecture, also the style of gardening are all im- 
 portant considerations. Therefore, if your lot or 
 your problem be of any considerable size, a plan 
 should be made by a professional designer. 
 
 STREET TREES, UNIFORM PLANTING 
 
 In nearly all cities and towns the streets are 
 planted with several kinds and species of trees to 
 each block, of every conceivable size, form, color and 
 degree of desirability and fitness. Such planting 
 appears as irrational as a large orchard composed 
 of several sorts of fruit trees of varying sizes and 
 requirements, all hopelessly mixed. One horticul- 
 tural author says such planting reminds him of "nine 
 monstrously different buttons down the front of a 
 Prince Albert coat." Another says: "The planting 
 of a jumble of sorts upon the same block is a most 
 reprehensible practice." 
 
 Little can be done toward uniform planting with- 
 out zealous and well-directed cooperation. There 
 must be unity and intelligence of plan. The work
 
 38 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 should be carried on by improvement associations 
 formed to control either a street, precinct, ward or 
 town. Better still would it be if the city or town 
 controlled all street planting. First outline a plan 
 on which people of diverse tastes and interests can 
 either agree or effect a compromise. This will not 
 be found impossible, for the majority of people de- 
 sire that their neighborhood shall be attractive and 
 will yield in order to obtain desirable results. We 
 must sacrifice some things in order to get others of 
 different tastes to cooperate with us. After a thor- 
 ough discussion of the merits of the different trees 
 desired, put the selection of one for each street to 
 a vote and let the majority rule, not forgetting that 
 this is a matter which more concerns the general 
 public than the individual. Furthermore, it is not 
 so essential to have some specific tree as it is that 
 but one kind be planted to each block or street. 
 
 TREES FOR STREET AND GARDEN 
 
 The following lists are very general and include 
 nearly all those suitable for street planting in Cali- 
 fornia. Of course all are equally desirable for park 
 or garden. A few of them thrive in all sections, 
 many of them quite generally throughout the south 
 end of the state and the San Francisco-Oakland dis- 
 trict, and a few in restricted districts only. In 
 planting a considerable number of species a thor- 
 ough knowledge of trees and of local conditions and 
 requirements is necessary, especially in choosing a 
 list for planting, if assurance is to be given of good 
 permanent results. 
 
 ASSORTED EVERGREENS 
 
 Acacia cyanophylla, blue-leaved wattle; A. deal- 
 bata, silver wattle; A. decurrens, green wattle; A.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 39 
 
 floribunda; A. longifolia; A. melanoxylon, black- 
 wood; Albizzia lophanta, crested wattle; Caloden- 
 dron capense, cape chestnut ; Casuarina stricta, beef- 
 wood or she-oak; Ceratonia siliqua, carob or St. 
 John's bread; Cinnamomum camphora, camphor 
 tree; Eucalyptus amygdalina, Messmate gum; E. 
 calophylla, white-flowering gum ; E. ficif olia, scarlet- 
 flowering gum; E. leucoxylon, white iron-bark; E. 
 platyphylla, broad-leaved gum; E. polyanthema, red 
 box; E. punctata, hickory gum; E. robusta, swamp 
 mahogany ; E. rudis, desert gum ; E. sideroxylon, 
 red iron-bark; Ficus macrophylla, Moreton Bay fig; 
 Grevillea robusta, silk oak; Jacaranda ovalifolia, 
 blue trumpet-flower tree; Ligustrum ovalifolium, 
 Japan privet; Nerium oleander, oleander; Pittos- 
 porum rhombif olium, saw-leaved box ; P. undulatum, 
 Victoria box; Quercus agrifolia, live oak; Q. suber, 
 cork oak; Schinus molle, pepper tree; Sterculia di- 
 versifolia, bottle tree. 
 
 CONIFERS, OR CONE BEARERS 
 
 Unless conifers may be planted in wide parkways 
 or along broad highways where sufficient space is 
 allowed for retention of the lower branches, their 
 use for such positions is not advised but on the con- 
 trary is condemned by all recognized authorities. 
 While it is better that planting space should be 
 broad enough to allow of natural pyramidal growth, 
 if the space is less than this, the tips or leaders of 
 branches may be nipped off when reaching a certain 
 length from the trunk, resulting in a cone-shaped 
 tree with its base still resting securely on the soil 
 beneath. 
 
 California is singularly blessed with a long list 
 of native conifers, or cone-bearing trees, which are 
 much in demand where the climate will allow of
 
 40 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 their successful outdoor culture, and many are grown 
 as pot plants, either because of their extreme beauty 
 or the fame or sentiment attached, as in the case 
 of our big tree and redwood. 
 
 The big tree, Sequoia gigantea, is hardy in many 
 parts of the United States, Europe, England, etc., 
 but the redwood will not stand much cold weather. 
 Our Douglas spruce, Pseudotsuga Douglasi, is much 
 in demand in all countries, and few of our people are 
 aware that it is from this tree that we get the far- 
 famed Oregon pine. This tree may be found in the 
 lower mountains. Horticulturists have appreciated 
 this tree to the extent of producing, by selection and 
 other means, at least ten distinct forms which have 
 been given varietal names. 
 
 We have so many native genera in the cone bear- 
 ers that all could hardly be covered in this list, but 
 to show our wealth of available garden material we 
 will take one genus, pinus, or the true pines. These 
 must not be confounded with spruces, firs, cedars, 
 cypresses, junipers and the great host of other na- 
 tive conifers. The following fifteen California spe- 
 cies have been advertised in nursery catalogues: 
 Pinus Balfouriana, foxtail pine; P. contorta, scrub 
 pine; P. Coulteri, pitch or big cone pine; P. flexilis, 
 limber pine; P. Jeffreyi, Jeffrey's pine; P. Lamber- 
 tiana, sugar pine; P. monophylla, single-leaf pine; 
 P. monticola, mountain white pine; P. Muricata, 
 prickle cone pine; P. Parryana or quadrifolia, nut 
 pine or pinon ; P. ponderosa, yellow pine ; P. radiata, 
 Monterey pine; P. Sabiniana, digger pine; P. Tor- 
 reyana, Soledad pine ; P. tuberculata, knob cone pine. 
 Aside from these are many either of late introduc- 
 tion to the nursery trade or of little value as horticul- 
 tural subjects.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 41 
 
 CURIOUS CONIFERS 
 
 The conifers contain both the largest and the 
 smallest trees in the world, as well as those enduring 
 the greatest extremes of heat and cold. Nearly all 
 are evergreen but a few are deciduous, the most 
 common of the latter class being the larches. 
 
 Ginkgo biloba, the maidenhair tree from northern 
 China, is a deciduous conifer whose botanical affin- 
 ities seem to be with the conifers on one side and 
 with the ferns on the other, though but little like 
 either. The leaves are fan-shaped and notched just 
 like a giant maidenhair fern, and unbranched veins 
 extend in radiating lines to the edge of the leaf 
 precisely as they do in the fern. The fruit is in no 
 wise a cone as we know cones, but is a fleshy drupe 
 not unlike the fruit of the yews, which by some 
 botanists are removed from the conifers though 
 closely related to the maidenhair tree. 
 
 Another curious conifer is Agathis robusta, the 
 dammar or kauri pine, native to Queensland and 
 many islands in Australasia. If the ginkgo is to be 
 called a fern tree by reason of its quaint foliage, 
 the agathis should be called the lily tree for a like 
 reason. The leaves of the kauri pine are, however, 
 much handsomer than those of any lily and also 
 much thicker and of more substantial texture. There 
 is no other conifer and scarcely a tree of any kind 
 that rivals this tree in beauty of foliage, and very 
 few who view it are easily convinced of its botan- 
 ical relationship. 
 
 It is interesting to Californians to know that we 
 have a conifer which is curious by reason of its 
 isolation from its half dozen or more sister species. 
 The incense cedar, Libocedrus decurrens, is the only 
 representative of the genus in North America. 
 Others are found in various parts of the world, thus,
 
 42 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 Chile to Patagonia, Island of Formosa, China, New 
 Zealand and New Guinea, but generally in the south- 
 ern hemisphere. Junipers are curious for the rea- 
 son that they do not bear true cones, but berries; 
 everybody has heard of juniper berries. Junipers 
 also bear two kinds of leaves. 
 
 THE ARAUCARIA GROUP 
 
 The group of conifers known as araucarias are 
 among the most ornate of the family, and a collec- 
 tion of all the species would make one of the most 
 interesting groves of trees that could be planted in 
 a large park or extensive country home. 
 
 We have six species, four from Australasia and 
 two from South America. Owing to the dryness of 
 our climate the latter two, A. imbricata, the mon- 
 key puzzle, and A. Brasiliense, do not thrive in our 
 state, though specimens are not uncommon. By 
 far the most common species is the Norfolk Island 
 pine, A. excelsa. This tree thrives best near the 
 seacoast. A. Bidwillii will do well in the hot in- 
 terior valleys. A. Cookii is the most rare of all and 
 the writer knows of but two. A. Cunninghamii is 
 somewhat more common, though it is doubtful if 
 there are a score of this species in California. All 
 are large and beautiful trees. 
 
 THE ARBOR-VITAES 
 
 The golden arbor-vitae, Thuya aurea, is a dwarf 
 Chinese variety, very compact, globular in form, 
 and with foliage tips of yellowish green. T. com- 
 pacta is quite similar but is bright green in color 
 and attains a height of five or six feet. 
 
 The giant arbor-vitae, T. gigantea, is a native of 
 California and is, as its name indicates, the largest 
 of the family, often attaining a height of 150 feet.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 43 
 
 In the garden it is noted for its rapid, vigorous 
 growth and sturdy form. On the Atlantic Coast 
 there is a native species, T. occidentalis, that is 
 known as the American arbor-vitae, or white cedar, 
 furnishing the lumber known under the latter name, 
 yet not a true cedar. It will grow to fifty feet in 
 height and is widely planted in parks and large 
 gardens. 
 
 Thuya orientalis is the name of the Chinese arbor- 
 vitae, a compact, bushy tree twenty to thirty feet 
 high when mature, with bright green foliage which 
 stands edgewise to the trunk. Another compact 
 form not so common in California as the others 
 listed, a later introduction, is known as T. tatarica, 
 a very hardy species that grows rather slowly under 
 great extremes of temperature and treatment until 
 it finally reaches twenty feet in height. 
 
 THE TRUE CEDARS 
 
 There are but three species of cedars, though many 
 trees are known as such. The one most commonly 
 so-called, the red cedar of the Eastern states, is a 
 juniper. 
 
 The Mount Atlas cedar, Cedrus Atlantica, is the 
 least known to us though not rare in California gar- 
 dens. It is a rapid-growing tree of loosely formal, 
 pyramidal outline and silvery>-green foliage, and 
 though slow of growth when young eventually at- 
 tains a height of 120 feet. 
 
 The most popular cedar is C. deodara, variously 
 known as deodar, Himalayan cedar, or incense cedar ; 
 a most beautiful and stately tree of towering pyra- 
 midal growth, peculiarly suited to all parts of Cali- 
 fornia. Its foliage is bluish-green, silvery on the 
 under side, at all times attractive. In the opinion of 
 the author this is the most beautiful of all trees.
 
 44 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 C. Libani is the cedar of Lebanon mentioned in 
 the bible and writings of travelers in the Far East, 
 being native to the land known as the Cradle of 
 the Human Race and for that reason alone in great 
 demand for planting everywhere. It is darker in 
 foliage than the Himalayan cedar and less hand- 
 some. 
 
 THE CYPRESSES 
 
 The Arizona cypress, Cupressus Arizonica, is com- 
 paratively a newcomer to California, native to the 
 mountains of Arizona and New Mexico. It grows 
 somewhat columnar in form but is a handsome tree 
 of the type known as blue cypress. C. funebris is a 
 smaller, rather slender tree of loose foliage with 
 drooping tips and dark green in color. Gowen's 
 cypress, C. Goveniana, is a native of California and 
 will prove satisfactory wherever cypresses are 
 needed. 
 
 Cupressus Guadalupensis is a blue form of the 
 better known Monterey cypress, native to Lower Cal- 
 ifornia and the near-by island of Guadalupe. In 
 color its foliage ranges from a grayish or bluish 
 green to silvery blue, the latter being the most at- 
 tractive foliage color found in the conifers. 
 
 C. macrocarpa is the Monterey cypress common 
 over all of California and extensively used for 
 hedges, windbreaks and all purposes where a quick- 
 growing, thick-foliaged evergreen is wanted, but it 
 is rather a short-lived tree of somber appearance. 
 The tall, very slender cypress to which we attach the 
 name Italian is native to both Southern Europe and 
 Asia and is the classical cypress of Greek and Roman 
 writers. With us it is popular for making living 
 arches, gateways and for formal gardens and near 
 dwellings of severe architecture.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 45 
 
 THE PINE FAMILY 
 
 No more handsome pine may be found in western 
 gardens than Pinus Canariensis, named for its na- 
 tive habitat the Canary Island pine. It has long 
 needles or leaves of silvery-blue and an upright, 
 stately growth that peculiarly fits it for highway 
 planting. 
 
 P. halepensis, the Aleppo pine, is better suited 
 for planting over all of California than any species 
 yet tried. It soon grows to large size, is of a clean 
 and pleasing shade of light green and succeeds under 
 a considerable range in temperature, soil and gen- 
 eral condition. 
 
 The Corsican pine, P. laricio, is a tree with stout, 
 spreading branches and grows to a height of 150 
 feet. In general outline at maturity it forms a 
 stately pyramid of rugged beauty. P. maritima, the 
 cluster pine, is a handsome tree bearing needles a 
 foot long, curiously twisted in clusters of bright 
 green. The parasol pine, P. pinea, differs from most 
 pines in having a round head and in age makes a 
 large tree with a wide-spreading top suggestive of 
 a gigantic parasol. 
 
 MIXED CONIFERS 
 
 Agathis robusta, the dammar pine from northern 
 Australia, is unique among cone-bearing trees in 
 that it is the only one bearing broad leaves, similar 
 to those of laurels in outline, thick and leathery in 
 texture and truly handsome. 
 
 Chamaecyparis Lawsoniana is the name of the 
 tree known to Californians as Lawson cypress and 
 to Oregonians as Port Orford cedar, being native to 
 both states indicated. It is a grand tree, a forest 
 giant of rapid growth and pyramidal form with 
 bluish-green foliage, retaining its lower branches
 
 46 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 close to the ground. One of the best garden coni- 
 fers. 
 
 The Japanese cedar, Cryptomeria Japonica, is 
 the dominant avenue tree in its native country and 
 popular for planting in coastal California but it 
 will not endure the heat of our interior valleys. It 
 grows rapidly near the coast but is of loose habit. 
 
 A horticultural variety of the Japanese cedar, a 
 smaller but handsomer tree, is known as C. elegans 
 and is not surpassed in fitness for California gar- 
 dens in general by any small evergreen tree. It 
 seldom grows to twenty feet. 
 
 Juniperus Bermudiana is the only one of many 
 species that grows well in California. It grows 
 rapidly from the very first though its ultimate height 
 is not more than forty feet. For a spreading ever- 
 green of medium growth the Bermuda juniper ranks 
 well in all of California. A dwarf species is J. 
 Sabina, known as the Sabine juniper, and is a 
 spreading shrub of value for planting in poor soils, 
 rockeries, etc. There is also a prostrate variety 
 that grows flat on the ground, a fine rough covering 
 for terrace banks and places of similar needs. 
 
 Two so-called cedars are general favorites, one, 
 Libocedrus Chilensis, is known as the Chilean cedar 
 and the other, L. decurrens, as the incense cedar. 
 Both are large spreading trees of handsome appear- 
 ance, but the incense cedar, native to California and 
 Oregon is one of our most stately evergreens and 
 one of the best for park or garden. 
 
 One of the Japanese yews, Podocarpus macro- 
 phylla, has foliage somewhat like the oleander, 
 though narrower. It is a small, spreading tree of 
 fine appearance and worthy of extensive garden 
 use, somewhat of an oddity among coniferous trees. 
 
 Taxus baccata is the English yew so extensively
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 47 
 
 planted in its native country and often clipped into 
 formal and fantastic shapes. With us it is but a 
 large spreading shrub though with age it will come 
 to arborescent growth. It bears a somber hue ex- 
 cept when the wind upturns the branches and shows 
 the silvery sheen on the under side of the foliage. 
 
 The so-called Irish yew is a f astigiate or narrowly 
 columnar form of the English yew and would scarce- 
 ly be suspected of being closely related. In color it 
 is a very dark green and the general appearance is 
 that of a huge bundle of closely packed perpendicu- 
 lar branches ; a favorite for formal gardens. 
 
 DECIDUOUS TREES 
 
 In places where summer shade and winter sun- 
 shine is desired, deciduous trees may be planted, 
 but with the splendid roads we now have in all 
 parts of California the old cry of "muddy roads 
 during the rainy season" cannot longer be offered 
 as a reason for planting deciduous trees along 
 streets and highways in a state having almost per- 
 petual sunshine and summer. 
 
 On public or private playgrounds, picnic grounds, 
 to provide shade for summer only over certain parts 
 of the house or other buildings or over arbors, seats, 
 resting-places or plant groups or collections, de- 
 ciduous trees may not only be permissible, but ad- 
 visable. In botanic gardens and for collections of 
 deciduous plants in parks and large gardens they 
 are necessary. But for mere ornament they have 
 no place in the southern two-thirds of California. 
 
 It may interest the reader to know that in Amer- 
 ica we have but three families of deciduous native 
 trees possessing opposite leaves, and all have repre- 
 sentatives in California and will be found fairly 
 close to streams. It is not necessary to find them
 
 48 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 in leaf to know them look to see if leaf scars and 
 buds are opposite, and if so the tree is either ash, 
 maple or horse chestnut. If they are not opposite 
 they as clearly belong to some other family or are 
 native to some other country, or both. 
 
 There is little doubt but Platanus orientalis, the 
 oriental plane, is the one best deciduous tree for all 
 purposes, but other good species for either street or 
 garden planting are: Acer dasycarpum, soft or sil- 
 ver maple; Acer platanoides, Norway maple; Acer 
 negundo, box elder; Albizzia julibrissin, pink acacia; 
 Broussonetia papyrifera, paper mulberry; Castanea 
 vesca, Spanish chestnut; Celtis australis, European 
 hackberry; Fraxinus Americana, white ash; Frax- 
 inus lanceolata, green ash; Ginkgo biloba, maiden- 
 hair tree ; Hicoria pecan, pecan ; Liriodendron tulip- 
 if era, tulip tree ; Melia azerdarach umbraculif ormis, 
 Texas umbrella tree; Populus balsamifera candi- 
 cans, balm of Gilead ; Populus Carolinensis, Carolina 
 poplar; Quercus lobata, California white oak; 
 Quercus palustris, pin oak; Quercus pedunculata, 
 English oak; Quercus rubra, red oak; Sterculia 
 platanif olia, parasol tree ; Ulmus Americana, Amer- 
 ican white elm; Ulmus suberosa, cork-barked elm; 
 Ulmus glabra vegata, Huntingdon elm. 
 
 PALMS AND ASSOCIATES 
 
 Of the great number of plants available none are 
 better suited to California gardens than palms, the 
 kings and princes of the vegetable kingdom; none 
 give us more of tropical grace and luxuriance. "Land 
 of the palm and banana" has a most alluring sound 
 that draws to us each winter tens of thousands from 
 less favored states who love to bask in our winter 
 sunshine and watch the gentle swaying to the breeze 
 of our wonderful tropical vegetation.
 
 THE SOUTH AMERICAN ORANGE TRUMPET FLOWER 
 Bignonia venusta
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 49 
 
 Luxuriant as is the average palm in our gardens, 
 none of them find ideal conditions for proper de- 
 velopment, so that all fall short of the beauty of 
 the same species when seen under strictly tropical 
 skies. All palms need an abundance of water and 
 unless it is given them a wealth of growth should 
 not be expected. During the winter months palms 
 need but little water other than that from the sea- 
 sonal rainfall, for they are at this time practically 
 dormant. It is during the hottest weather that 
 copious and frequent irrigations should be given, 
 for under the stimulus of our extremes of heat 
 coupled with a wealth of water the development of 
 palms and their associates nearest approaches the 
 ideal. 
 
 Few plants lend such a delicate tropical grace to 
 the house surroundings as bamboo, nor are such 
 plantations at all out of place in more remote sit- 
 uations. The richest and most tropical vegetation 
 should always be nearest the dwelling, especially 
 plants of dignified and formal growth like the palms, 
 but as we wander through extensive grounds one 
 occasionally is charmed by finding a tropical nook 
 filled with rank, graceful, yet careless growth of 
 bamboo, banana, and similar plants. 
 
 Palms and dracenas suitable for both street and 
 garden are : Trachycarpus excelsus, windmill palm ; 
 Washingtonia robusta, Mexican fan palm ; Washing- 
 tonia filifera, California fan palm; Livistona aus- 
 tralis, Australian fan palm; Erythea edulis, Guada- 
 lupe palm; Cordyline indivisa, dracena, or palm 
 lily; Cordyline australis, dracena, or palm lily; 
 Cocos plumosa, queen palm. 
 
 Some of the best bamboos are: Arundinaria Fal- 
 coneri, a most graceful kind, not much over fifteen 
 feet high, with very thin stems and a mass of
 
 50 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 feathery foliage, admirably suited for lawns and 
 for decoration. Grows in clumps and never sends 
 out runners. 
 
 Bambusa vulgaris is tall, arching and hardy 
 everywhere. This beautiful, tall and quick-grow- 
 ing bamboo is really invaluable for scenic, tropical 
 effect. A magnificent group can be made by plac- 
 ing the upright growing Dendrocalamus latifolia 
 in the center, massing Bambusa vulgaris around it, 
 and bordering with a dwarf species. 
 
 Dendrocalamus latifolia is the most desirable 
 and most impressive bamboo so far introduced. 
 Stems are four to five inches thick; up to fifty feet 
 in height, straight, and heavily clothed with broad, 
 long leaves which keep their color better than those 
 of any other giant bamboo. 
 
 Phyllostachys viridi glaucescens, from Northern 
 China, the true "fish-pole bamboo," is one of the 
 hardiest, quickest-growing, most effective bamboos 
 ever introduced to our state. It grows like a weed, 
 and one shoot planted in spring will multiply to six 
 or eight before fall. 
 
 ORNAMENTAL FRUIT TREES 
 
 In many sections of California, owing to the mild- 
 ness of winter, we are enabled to grow a score or 
 more of tropical and semitropical fruit trees, nearly 
 all of which are evergreens having a decided orna- 
 mental as well as economic value. In the city or 
 suburban garden of restricted area it is often pos- 
 sible to use fruiting trees and shrubs of this nature 
 as a feature of landscape ornamentation. 
 
 The golden glow of our citrus fruits is the most 
 welcome sight that greets the eye of our first-time 
 visitor, and even the returning Californian gazes 
 upon these familiar objects with a love akin to ven-
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 51 
 
 eration. Every home owner should find a place for 
 a few citrus trees. 
 
 The avocado, Persea gratissima, is one of the 
 most ornamental of all fruit trees, handsome in 
 form and foliage and producing a most abundant 
 crop of fruits of the highest food value. This tree 
 is worthy of extensive planting throughout the 
 warmer sections of the state, and of late years has 
 become quite well known and its value recognized. 
 
 During the past score of years the cherimoya or 
 custard apple, Anona cherimolia and A. reticulata, 
 has been planted quite extensively and fruits well 
 in scores of localities varying in soil and climatic 
 conditions. 
 
 Carissa is a particularly showy shrub well worthy 
 of a place in any garden for its ornamental value. 
 It bears fair-sized fruits, very nice to eat, but very 
 few Californians seem to grow them. 
 
 The white sapota from Mexico, Casimiroa edulis, 
 is a fine tree of good size that yields a most delicious 
 fruit and has been sparingly planted for many years, 
 and the same may be said of the mango, more tender 
 still, claimed by those who have eaten it in India to 
 be the finest of all tropical fruits. 
 
 Among the many fruit-bearing trees and shrubs 
 of ornamental value none have been more exten- 
 sively planted in California or have proven them- 
 selves better adapted to soil and climate than the 
 eugenias. Unfortunately, we have not grown those 
 of specific economic value, though these species are 
 fully as ornate as those more common with us. 
 
 The kai apple from Natal, Aberia caffra, and a 
 still better species from Ceylon, A. Gardneri, may be 
 grown either as small trees or as a large hedge, 
 much as limes are usually planted. The first-named 
 species has been fruited here for many years, and
 
 52 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 furnishes an acid fruit prized for jams and jellies. 
 The tree is somewhat thorny and naturally grows 
 in a neat, compact form. 
 
 The zapote or sapodilla, Achras sapota, is a fine 
 broad-leafed evergreen tree bearing a fruit not un- 
 like a russet apple in appearance, but having flesh 
 more like a pear in texture and flavor. 
 
 Feijoa Sellowiana, the Paraguay guava, though 
 closely allied to the guavas, is much preferred by all 
 who have eaten it to any true guava. In size and 
 shape it resembles a large plum from one to two 
 inches in diameter and an inch greater in length. 
 
 The strawlberry guava, Psidium cattleianum, is a 
 fine glossy-leaved shrub or small tree which pro- 
 duces an abundance of luscious fruit about the size 
 of a large strawberry, round and of a deep reddish- 
 brown color. The fruit is highly prized for table use 
 when fresh, and for jams and jellies has few equals. 
 
 The loquat is highly esteemed for its agreeable 
 acidulous, aromatic flavor and on account of its 
 ripening in early spring. The tree is one of the most 
 beautiful among fruit trees. 
 
 HARDY EUCALYPTS 
 
 Though many eucalypts for special uses are 
 listed in these pages it may be well to again call 
 attention to the unquestioned adaptability of these 
 trees to any and all parts of California, for no other 
 vegetation has wrought such a wonderful transfor- 
 mation in our landscapes. 
 
 As showing the extremes under which these trees 
 will thrive, there are several species hardy in the 
 southern parts of England and Ireland, even to some 
 distance north of London. The hardiest of these is 
 E. coriacea, a dwarf species from snow-covered 
 mountain tops in Australia, but not useful to us ex-
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 53 
 
 cept under similar conditions in forest reserves. 
 The hardiest species that grows to the dignity of a 
 tree is E. Gunnii, but its growth is too slow for pop- 
 ular use. E. coccifera, cordata, urnigera, saligna, 
 resinif era, and viminalis grow in Cornwall, England, 
 but only one, viminalis, thrives well in the colder 
 parts of California. 
 
 Under the stress of great heat other species thrive 
 equally as well as do those of the former list in lands 
 of heavy frosts and snow. At Thermal, California, 
 on our so-called Colorado Desert, twenty-five species 
 were tried out, about one hundred plants of each 
 being used for the test. Of these five species success- 
 fully withstood the heat with a continuation of vig- 
 orous annual growth. These were: E. leucoxylon, 
 the Victoria iron bark; E. polyanthema, the red box; 
 E. rostrata, the red gum; E. rudis, and E. viminalis, 
 the manna gum. Of these five the last-named grew 
 more rapidly and straighter than the others, and 
 during the first year many attained a height of 
 fifteen feet. For extremes of both heat and cold it 
 is the best species of all, a truly wonderful tree in 
 its climatic adaptation. 
 
 TREES FOR ARID REGIONS 
 
 There are many trees quite common, which will 
 endure the heat of these sections, but not all will 
 withstand the cold, and in the appended list care 
 must be taken that frosts are not too severe for some 
 of those named. 
 
 Among the best trees are : Beef -wood or she-oak, 
 casuarina; pepper, Schinus molle; Texas umbrella, 
 melia; black locust, Robinia pseudacacia; honey lo- 
 cust, Gleditschia triacanthos ; several willows ; box 
 elder, Acer negundo; cotton woods, several species; 
 at least five eucalypts rostrata, rudis, tereticornis,
 
 54 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 polyanthema, and viminalis; palo verde and mes- 
 quite, both from the desert; the Chinese tree of 
 heaven, Ailanthus glandulosa; ash, several species; 
 Kentucky coffee tree, Gymnocladus Canadensis; 
 Russian mulberry, Morus alba tatarica; osage 
 orange, Toxylon pomiferum; poplars, both Lom- 
 bardy and Carolina ; purple plum, Prunus cerasifera 
 atropurpurea ; soft maple, Acer saccharinum ; syca- 
 more, either of the western species of platanus; 
 black walnut, any species; arbor-vitae, Thuya occi- 
 dentalis; spindle tree, Evonymus Japonicus; Indian 
 cedar, Cedrus deodara; Japanese cedars, species of 
 chamaecyparis ; red cedar, Juniperus Virginiana; 
 our native fan palm, Washingtonia filif era ; and the 
 dates, Phoenix dactylifera, P. Canariensis and P. 
 reclinata. 
 
 In shrubs use tamarisk, myoporums, Althaea offi- 
 cinalis, poinsettia, Euphorbia pulcherrima; bottle 
 brushes, melaleucas, callistemons, etc., pomegranate, 
 and privet, Ligustrum Japonicum. For dry places 
 try native pines in the order named (for drouth 
 resistant qualities) : P. tuberculata the knob-cone 
 pine, P. Sabiniana, the digger or bull pine, and P. 
 monticola, the mountain white pine. Other good 
 natives are P. ponderosa, the yellow pine, P. Torrey- 
 ana, the Soledad Pine, P. Parryana or quadrifolia, 
 the nut pine, P. Lambertiana, the sugar pine, P. 
 Coulteri, the big cone pine, and P. monophylla, the 
 single-leaved pine. 
 
 TREES FOR ALKALINE SOILS 
 
 Nearly all the eucalypts and the single-leaved 
 acacias are very tolerant of alkali. Especially are 
 the following excellent: Acacias; armata, shrub, 
 cyanophylla, longifolia, pycnantha, saligna. Euca- 
 lypts: amygdalina, cornuta, rostrata and robusta, 
 are well suited to all saline soils.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 55 
 
 In conifers we have the following pines : balsamea, 
 halepensis, laricio, maritima, radiata; also red 
 cedar, Juniperus Virginica; Monterey cypress, 
 Cupressus macrocarpa ; all melaleucas ; M. leucaden- 
 
 dron is per- 
 haps the 
 most toler- 
 ant of alka- 
 line or sa- 
 line soils of 
 any tree; 
 St. John's 
 bread, Cera- 
 tonia sili- 
 qua ; and the 
 common 
 date palm, 
 Phoenix dac- 
 tylifera. 
 
 In decidu- 
 ous trees you 
 may plant 
 all willows 
 and poplars ; 
 the swamp 
 locust, Gle- 
 
 ditschia monosperma; a swamp-loving ash, Alnus 
 glutinosus; the European sycamore maple, Acer 
 pseudo-platanus ; and the Chinese tree of heaven, 
 Ailanthus glandulosa. In shrubs use: Melaleucas, 
 metrosideros, callistemons, tamarisk, plumbago, lep- 
 tospermum, myoporum, genistas or cytisus, and 
 willows. 
 
 SHRUBBY HARBINGERS OF SPRING 
 Among the many excellent deciduous shrubs suit- 
 
 PROPER PRUNING
 
 56 
 
 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 able to California, none is lovelier than the common 
 bridal wreath, Spirea Cantonensis, also known by 
 the trade name of S. Reevesiana. For the large gar- 
 den a few scarlet-flowering quinces, grown in a mass 
 or thicket, are almost indispensable. In favorable 
 locations lilacs and snowballs are in order, but not 
 everywhere do they thrive, and the same is true of 
 the syringa or mock orange, philadelphus. Crataea- 
 gus, berberis, cotoneaster, weigelia, deutzia, snow- 
 berry, sweet shrub, dogwood, althea and a host of 
 others might be listed that will thrive here. 
 
 As a rule all 
 deciduous shrubs 
 (also trees) grow 
 much more lux- 
 uriantly in the 
 country than city. 
 Owners of coun- 
 try homes will 
 find northern 
 slopes very fav- 
 o r a b 1 e to the 
 growth of nearly 
 all deciduous 
 shrubs and some, 
 as the hardy hy- 
 drangea, H. pani- 
 c u 1 a t a grandi- 
 flora, are quickly 
 
 burned up by our dry, continuous spring heat. The 
 Japanese snowball is another subject for cooler 
 slopes, and is seldom happy in the city garden. The 
 proper time to -prune deciduous shrubs is immedi- 
 ately after flowering, giving them a chance to make 
 growth of flowering wood for another season. 
 
 THE RIGHT AND THE AVRONG WAY 
 
 The bolt above shows proper treatment for 
 a splitting fork. The lower part shows 
 what will happen if a band is used.
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 CLIMBERS AND TRAILERS 
 
 In nature the mission of the vine is to cover 
 for obscurity or for protection or shelter and in the 
 garden it is often put to similar uses. But the vine 
 has other and nobler uses. Its delicate tracery upon 
 classic or other pretentious architecture is a thing of 
 extreme beauty and should be kept with this end in 
 view, under complete control. It is sometimes per- 
 missible to hide, or at least to soften, the more harsh 
 and monotonous lines of architecture by the judicious 
 use of delicate vines, not of the kinds, however, used 
 to obscure unsightly objects or cover arbors. Not all 
 vines were intended for the same mission in life, and 
 man should choose, with judgment born of experi- 
 ence and based on observation, where each should go 
 
 or what vines to use for specific purposes. 
 
 Whenever that stage is reached where vines look 
 heavy and cumbersome they should be thinned out; 
 the necessity of this in connection with the desira- 
 bility of light, graceful effects, goes far to prove the 
 claim that climbing roses are unfitted for house deco- 
 ration. It is far better to grow them on fences, over 
 arbors, pergolas, or outbuildings of little importance 
 to the landscape. One most important point is that 
 the house must be first considered. It is the one im- 
 portant object, not the vine or vines; they should 
 decorate the house with a fitting drapery and not 
 make a vinery with patches of building peeping out. 
 The lines of architecture should be softened but not 
 obscured.
 
 58 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 EVERGREEN CLIMBERS 
 
 Akebia lobata and A. quinata are climbing bar- 
 berries bearing short racemes of small brownish pur- 
 ple flowers, natives to China and Japan. 
 
 Asparagus plumosus is a very popular climber for 
 shady places, and for a low-growing vine or a hanger 
 for vases or window boxes A. decumbens or A. de- 
 flexus are very good. These are natives of Africa. 
 
 Beaumontia grandiflora, a tropical climber, suited 
 only to frostless localities, has very large white, bell- 
 shaped flowers that are of such size that they have 
 been likened to lilies. 
 
 The bignonias are very close to the tecomas and 
 all are known as trumpet flowers. B. venusta, the 
 one with orange-yellow flowers, is one of the most 
 gorgeous flowering vines known to California. B. 
 Tweediana has large yellow flowers and easily clings 
 to walls. B. violacea has violet flowers, and B. 
 Cherere has blossoms of blood-red. 
 
 The bougainvilleas, though having insignificant 
 yellow flowers, bear floral bracts of most brilliant 
 hue. All save one species have bracts of magenta or 
 a closely allied shade. The variety known as B. 
 lateritia has brick-red floral bracts, and while the 
 showiest of all is also the most tender. 
 
 Cissus discolor and C. rhombifolia are for the 
 house and warm locations only, such as window 
 boxes, hanging baskets, etc. Foliage resembles be- 
 gonia leaves. 
 
 Clianthus puniceus is an Australian vine, bearing 
 showy red flowers that have given it the popular 
 name of parrot's bill. C. Dampieri is a beautiful 
 trailer, hard to grow, from the desert regions of New 
 Zealand and is called New Zealand glory pea. 
 
 Cobea scandens and its white variety hail from
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 59 
 
 Mexico and have flowers closely resembling the com- 
 mon Canterbury bells. The type has purple flowers. 
 A "rough" climber. 
 
 Dioclea glycinoides has flowers much like the clian- 
 thus but smaller and of darker red ; really a crimson. 
 It does not grow so large nor so rapidly as the par- 
 rot's bill. 
 
 Dolichos lignosus, the Australian pea, also its 
 white variety, is a small-leaved, quick-growing vine 
 that makes a fine close cover where frosts are not 
 too heavy. The former bears pink and white 
 flowers. 
 
 Evonymus radicans is a climbing or trailing shrub 
 with very small leaves and will cling by aerial root- 
 lets to walls of brick, stone, or concrete. There is 
 also a variety with variegated foliage. 
 
 Ficus pumila, better known as F. repens, is the 
 most popular of all evergreen vines for covering 
 walls as it will attach itself to anything that is slight- 
 ly roughter than a pane of glass. It bears no visible 
 flowers as it is a climbing fig. 
 
 Hardenbergias, sometimes known as Kennedyas, 
 have pea-shaped blossoms of white, pink, or purple. 
 The plants being very much alike in general appear- 
 ance, one chooses the color wished for in the flower 
 and orders the species bearing it. 
 
 Hedera helix and its many varieties are known as 
 English ivy, Irish ivy, etc., being the only true ivies. 
 They cling tenaciously to any wall and grow well in 
 sun or shade ; perhaps the most popular of all vines 
 for shady places. 
 
 The wax plant, Hoya carnosa, is a handsome 
 climber which does best in shady places, or it may 
 be used as a trellised pot plant for porch or house.
 
 60 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 The flowers come in numerous umbels of delicate 
 pink and are wax-like in texture. 
 
 Loniceras are the honeysuckles, of which we have 
 several species and varieties. All are fairly hardy, 
 will thrive in any soil or position and produce a fra- 
 grance when in bloom that makes their presence 
 known at a very considerable distance. They are 
 splendid all-purpose vines. 
 
 Muehlenbeckia complexa, the wire vine, is a native 
 of New Zealand, where it climbs over and obtains a 
 foothold in the rocks where no soil is in evidence, 
 right on the bare sea-wall and within the spray of 
 salt water. It will therefore thrive on the misty 
 beach or in the driest situations. 
 
 Jasmines are common in all parts of California 
 and we grow at least a half dozen hardy species hav- 
 ing mostly white flowers, though Jasminum primu- 
 linum, having primrose-yellow flowers, is the jewel 
 of the lot, and J. humile, known as J. revolutum, is 
 a half-shrubby species also having yellow flowers. 
 There are no poor species of jasmines. 
 
 Passion vines are not so popular as they were a 
 score of years ago for they are usually attacked by 
 hordes of caterpillars which quickly and completely 
 defoliate them. They have white, blue, or purple 
 flowers ; and one, the best of the lot, Passiflora prin- 
 ceps, has half -closed, drooping bells of dull red. 
 
 We usually grow but one phaseolus as an orna- 
 mental, P. caracalla, the snail vine, bearing curious, 
 large, snail-like flowers of purple and yellow. 
 
 Pithecoctenium muricatum has a name all out of 
 proportion to its small white and yellow trumpet 
 flowers. It is, however, a free bloomer and is closely 
 allied to the bignonias. 
 
 Everyone knows the lovely blue of Plumbago
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 61 
 
 capensis, one of the most drouth-resistant of all 
 vines or shrubs. The less water it has the more will 
 it bloom. There is also a white variety. 
 
 Solandra guttata, the copa de oro, has the largest 
 flowers of any climbing shrub, but alas, it will grow 
 only in situations well protected from frosts. Its 
 giant cups of old-gold are several inches across the 
 mouth and strikingly handsome, while their great 
 size attracts the attention of every beholder. 
 
 In the solanums we have several species bearing 
 white or blue flowers and ranging in size from those 
 of the small S. jasminoides (potato vine) up to the 
 azure-blue giants of Solanum Wendlandi. 
 
 Sollya heterophylla, the Australian blue bell, is 
 as much of a shrub as a climber, but it has the 
 bluest of flowers and though they are small they 
 never fail to attract attention. 
 
 A lovely, somewhat tender plant is Stigmaphyllon 
 ciliatum, the orchid vine, with golden yellow flowers 
 in pendulous bunches or corymbs, each flower an 
 inch across and delicately fringed. 
 
 The tacsonias are closely allied to the passion 
 vines but differ most distinctly in the color of the 
 flowers, those of passion vines being white, blue, 
 or purple, while the tacsonias bear pink, scarlet, or 
 red blossoms. 
 
 In the trumpet flowers, so-called, which comprise 
 the bignonias and tecomas, we have many colors, 
 and some of the tecomas are deciduous. The flowers 
 are pink, orange-red, and red. See also bignonias 
 and list of deciduous vines for there is much confu- 
 sion of names. 
 
 There is a vine that by reason of its provocatively 
 long name should be ruled out of popular lists except 
 that it is a beautiful climbing plant belonging to the
 
 62 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 popular jasmine family. It is called the star jasmine 
 and has creamy-white star-shaped blossoms, borne in 
 great profusion. Its botanical name is Trachelos- 
 permum jasminoides, but the dealers usually call it 
 rhyncospermum, which is no easier for the average 
 layman's tongue. 
 
 Of late years two or three species, or varieties of 
 one species, of evergreen grape from South Africa, 
 have been added to the list of desirable climbers. At 
 first we had but one form, under the name of Vitis 
 capensis, but later others have appeared, quite simi- 
 lar in general appearance, and all good. They are 
 listed as : V. Baudiana, V. hyper-glauca, V. rhombi- 
 folia, and V. rupestris. 
 
 DECIDUOUS CLIMBERS 
 
 Ampelopsis quinquefolia is known as Virginia 
 creeper or woodbine, while A. tricuspidata, 
 Veitchi, is called Japan ivy, and occasionally Bos- 
 ton ivy, though why the latter name we cannot tell 
 for it is native to Japan and China and came to this 
 country from England. 
 
 Antigonon leptopus, the rosa de montana, or 
 mountain rose, is a quick-growing vine that during 
 summer bears a mass of pink flowers that one 
 grower of it likens to "small pink hops." 
 
 Aristolochia in several species, one of which is 
 called Dutchman's pipe, are climbers with curious 
 rather than beautiful blossoms. 
 
 Asparagus medioloides is the smilax of florists, a 
 bulbous plant with a beautiful vine growth produced 
 annually. A splendid plant for shaded positions. 
 
 Clematis are so well known as scarcely to need 
 mention. The small-flowering sorts make dense 
 vines, while the large-flowered section run all to
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 63 
 
 blossoms, some of the latter being as much as ten 
 inches in diameter. In color they range from white 
 to deepest purple, with every possible intervening 
 shade. 
 
 Decumaria is a little known climber, clinging by 
 aerial rootlets, hardy, fragrant in blossom and 
 known as the climbing snowball. 
 
 Humulus, the hop vine, is a splendid plant for 
 quick summer covering and provides a dense shade. 
 Although normally green there is a handsome varie- 
 gated variety. Both send forth each spring from 
 perennial roots. 
 
 Mandevilla is known as the Chilean jasmine for 
 the reason that the flowers are quite similar to those 
 of the jasmines, but are larger and more fragrant. 
 
 Pueraria Thunbergiana is the Japanese kuzu vine 
 (erroneously spelled kudzu), remarkable for the 
 vigor of its growth, often attaining 50 or more feet 
 in length each season and bearing immense leaves. 
 
 Tecoma radicans and its varieties are hardy de- 
 ciduous trumpet vines, native to the eastern part of 
 the United States and popular everywhere. 
 
 All are familiar with the Chinese wistaria 
 (named for Dr. Wistar, an American), which is pop- 
 ular the world over. It may be had with white, lilac, 
 or purple flowers, and one variety has double flowers. 
 
 Heat-resistant vines are : Virginia creeper, Am- 
 pelopsis quinquef olia ; Boston or Japan ivy, A. tri- 
 cuspidata; and the Japanese honeysuckle, Lonicera 
 Japonica. The plumbago may be used for either 
 climber or shrub according to the way it is trained. 
 
 PRODUCTIVE SUMMER ARBORS 
 
 There are many gardens where vines of pumpkins, 
 squashes, gourds, etc., have been used to good effect 
 for summer arbors. In one yard, without a tree,
 
 64 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 there was a space of six feet between a fence three 
 feet high and the house. A few light battens were 
 run from top of fence to bottom of windows on the 
 house at a height of about six or seven feet. On 
 these battens was fastened two-inch mesh chicken 
 wire and squash vines allowed to clamber over all 
 in early spring. All summer this arbor proved a 
 cool, shady and wholesome retreat for children from 
 all over that neighborhood. A load of river sand 
 on the ground beneath keeps it a popular resort 
 throughout the year. 
 
 MISUSE OF VINES 
 
 Many of our home owners have the "vine habit" 
 in chronic form; everything possible is weighted 
 down with an excess of overgrown and often inap- 
 propriate climbers. When they are used to cover 
 bare, unsightly walls and ugly buildings a justifica- 
 tion exists for allowing them to grow rampant and 
 riotous, but where used for ornament alone they 
 must be kept in check. Their delicate tracery upon 
 buildings is decidedly one of greatest beauty, but 
 they should never be allowed to grow so as to ob- 
 scure good architecture. 
 
 There are buildings so inexpressibly ugly that 
 anything that would cover would be pardonable, but 
 such examples are rare, and generally he who has 
 such poor staste in building lacks sufficient love 
 for plant life to use vines at all. The greatest 
 abuse of vines really comes from those who 
 have more or less love for them, coupled with a 
 faulty judgment regarding the standard of beauty 
 as exemplified in plant life. Nearly all vines get 
 bare and ugly below with years of growth and nearly 
 all need to be replaced every few years.
 
 THREE CALIFORNIA ROCK GARDENS 
 1. Red Sandstone. 2. Gray Granite. 3. Boulders.
 
 CHAPTER V 
 ROCKERIES AND FERNERIES 
 
 Who that has wandered up canyons and over hills 
 doubts for a moment that we may have beautiful 
 rock gardens. Those time-toned rocks covered with 
 moss and lichens provide in themselves a foundation 
 of unusual beauty and interest and the plants which 
 may be used for further embellishment are so num- 
 erous as to defeat a desire to list them in a brief 
 treatise for the amateur. Sunny rock gardens may 
 very fittingly be combined with cactus or desert gar- 
 dens and prove as great an attraction and evoke as 
 much interest as any feature in the home grounds. 
 
 Every possessor of a garden, however limited in 
 area, can spare a shaded corner for a collection of 
 ferns and their allies. With the natives may be 
 mixed some of the hardy sorts on sale at nurseries, 
 for as a state California leads the nation on ferns, 
 Florida being a close second. Their chief require- 
 ment is shade, more particularly from the afternoon 
 sun, so that the east or north side of the house is best. 
 In this state where they have to be watered artifi- 
 cially they may be planted under trees, though they 
 must be kept well watered or the tree will draw 
 all the moisture away from them. Our native kinds 
 range from the little "golden-backs" only two inches 
 high, up to the woodwardia of deep canyons which 
 often exceed six feet in height. All are easy to grow. 
 
 BUILDING THE ROCKERY 
 
 Lay out the shape of your rockery on the ground 
 and use your largest stones first. Don't have the de-
 
 66 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 sign round, square, triangular, or any particular 
 shape, but as irregular as possible, just as though 
 it happened to be where you wanted it. Let the stones 
 touch each other and put your plants just back of 
 the place where two stones meet. 
 
 Now fill up the inside or core with soil until it is 
 level with the top of the rockwork, and do this with 
 each tier of stones as you build up. In placing the 
 second and subsequent tiers, draw each one in slight- 
 ly, yet not too evenly, neither too fast, or your rock- 
 ery will be finished too soon and also be too flat and 
 smooth. Be careful that the shape is not too regular 
 as you go up, but have it full of little canyons and 
 mesas with the top as irregular as possible. Also 
 allow some of the roughest and most picturesque 
 rocks to stand out boldly above the rest. 
 
 Be sure to keep the soil well watered all the time 
 you are at the job, for it is a very difficult matter 
 to get it wet all through when finished in case it be- 
 comes dry during construction. Soil for such work 
 should be of a light and porous nature, very friable, 
 yet without much sand, as sand washes away too 
 easily. Better have plenty of leaf mold if obtainable, 
 for it contains plant food agreeable to all vegetable 
 life. If you have a large place and can get plenty of 
 rocks the effect will be greatly improved by the free 
 use of dwarf or prostrate-growing shrubs. 
 
 WHERE TO BUILD 
 
 A rockery properly located and tastefully arranged 
 is capable of affording much interest and pleasure 
 to those who can appreciate the beauties of nature. 
 The simplest form of rockwork may be described as 
 an irregular mound of soil covered with stones, and 
 a secluded spot or corner of the pleasure grounds, 
 shaded by trees, but not necessarily directly under
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 67 
 
 them, is the position for a rockwork of the kind in 
 question. Here, concealed from all points by an in- 
 closure of shrubbery, or by an evergreen hedge, and 
 approached by a rustic pathway through a leafy 
 thicket, the rockery may be located without any vio- 
 lation of good taste or interference with other 
 and more ambitious features of a large and varied 
 garden. 
 
 Border rockeries to fill up large or unsightly angles 
 of the residence or other buildings are somewhat 
 rare, owing largely to the fact that a majority of all 
 California houses are built of wood. Even in such 
 cases we may cheaply and safely provide against de- 
 cay and dampness. Build a background of rough 
 redwood, place narrow strips, for "furring" between 
 it and the house sides, and the clear and clean air- 
 space will keep the house dry and the paint un- 
 spoiled. Such provision was made in the case of 
 some of the border rockeries shown in our chapter 
 frontispiece, all of which were built by the author's 
 hands. 
 
 WILD GARDENS 
 
 If the author had a large suburban garden he 
 would have a natural or wild rock garden that would 
 be just a riot of rocks and dry garden plants that 
 would not be figuratively calling for water and care 
 during our hot summer. Rocks should be large, 
 small, on hills, banks, and flat ground, in holes, cor- 
 ners, nooks everywhere no orderliness or design 
 but just careless disposition no strained effects but 
 as near as possible to what nature would do with 
 them. One should get all the rocks he can use 
 and still have soil enough to give the scene a good 
 touch of plant life. 
 
 For plants use any that will grow. Vile weeds
 
 68 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 should be rooted out, but wild tobacco, bush lotus, 
 humming-bird flower, the tiny flat milkweed, or 
 euphorbia, or any natives bearing well the summer 
 drouth should be encouraged. Visits to the neigh- 
 boring hills, mountains and canyons would disclose 
 a wealth of plants for rocky situations in both shade 
 and sun where little soil or water is available. Plants 
 for rockeries may be of any and all kinds, for in a 
 large rockery may be found every situation pre- 
 sented in a garden. Ferns and shade plants should 
 go on the north or shaded sides, angles, or nooks, 
 while sedums and stone-crops, with cacti and other 
 heat-loving succulents, may occupy the sunnier ex- 
 posures. 
 
 CACTUS GARDENS 
 
 One of the chief charms of a cactus garden is the 
 great number of similar plants which not only thrive 
 under like treatment, but are often so near the cacti 
 in appearance as to be mistaken for them when not 
 in bloom. A full collection of succulents, as this class 
 of plants is called, affords a richer and more inter- 
 esting field for study than any other branch or phase 
 of plant life. They are splendid subjects for ele- 
 vated rockeries, for drainage should be of the best 
 in order to maintain cacti in good health. 
 
 No family of plants recommends itself to the ama- 
 teur gardener more highly than the cactus group. At 
 no time do cacti need more than ordinary care, and 
 after once established they may almost as well be 
 left alone except for an occasional weeding. Most 
 of them have to endure in their native habitat great 
 extremes of heat, and in some places on our Amer- 
 ican deserts the snowfall is considerable, so that the 
 question of climate need not perplex the prospective 
 grower. In all cases the soil should be well drained,
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 69 
 
 yet some of our California species grow in heavy 
 adobe. 
 
 The cactus family is one of the largest and most 
 varied of any in the vegetable kingdom and has 
 in combination more grotesque and curious forms 
 with beautiful flowers than any other group of culti- 
 vated plants. In size they vary from little gems 
 less than an inch in height and diameter to giants 
 of sixty feet, three feet through the trunk, with so 
 many curious forms as to completely baffle descrip- 
 tion. In size the flowers have no such range, but 
 several are more than a foot long and, when in full 
 bloom, of the same diameter across the mouth. No 
 family of plants can surpass the exquisite shades 
 of color to be found in cacti, ranging from white to 
 crimson, all with a beautiful satiny finish. 
 
 WALL GARDENS 
 
 This phase of gardening is a success in any cli- 
 mate, but is especially easy of finished luxuriance 
 in a humid atmosphere. Near the coast should prove 
 ideal, and a rough rock wall fronting the ocean 
 would serve splendidly to protect the garden, and 
 the stones could be covered on both sides. Muehlen- 
 beckia complexa, the wire vine from New Zealand, 
 could be grown on the ocean side, right next to the 
 wave-washed sands, and in a short while would so 
 cover and bind the rocks together as to make a 
 permanent protection. On the seawall in its native 
 country this vine flourishes right in the ocean spray. 
 
 It would be preferable to have this wall widest at 
 bottom and batter or slope from each side to a nar- 
 rower top. If a core of good soil could be provided 
 and flat or broken rocks "rip-rapped" up the sides 
 success would be assured. On the inside of the wall 
 could be planted, with assurance of vigorous growth,
 
 70 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 many sorts of plants needing but little water. Care 
 should be taken in watering until the plants are 
 firmly established or the soil will be washed away. 
 A light but very frequent spraying should be the 
 program. While building, the soil should be kept 
 rather wet and packed, and after each watering look 
 over the wall and fill all chinks and cracks where 
 soil has washed away or settled from surface. The 
 common cobbles or boulders are the very poorest of 
 all material for such work. Quarried or slab stone 
 is best, and if it is soft and porous so it will hold 
 water and grow mossy, the effect will be much more 
 pleasing than with hard, impervious rock. This 
 class of work would add a pleasing variety to many 
 gardens. 
 
 A FINE WALL PLANT 
 
 Growers of cacti and other succulents suitable for 
 rock gardens admire one of the large stone crops 
 (Sedum spectabile) which is handsome in foliage 
 and produces large trusses of fine pink flowers 
 throughout a very considerable portion of the year. 
 For the driest situations and poorest soils it has 
 much to commend it, for under circumstances and 
 conditions necessarily fatal to most plants it thrives 
 marvelously. Given heavy, rich soil with plenty of 
 water, it runs all to vegetative growth, produces no 
 flowers and often rots away in the roots. Even then 
 the tops readily root and soon blossom if left lying 
 on dry soil.
 
 THE AMERICAN CONE-FLOWER, GO.LDEN GLOW 
 Rudbeckia laciniata flore- plena
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS 
 
 Let us grow flowers everywhere, for aside from 
 our own pleasure they may perchance brighten the 
 life and awaken a love of flowers in many now wholly 
 or partially indifferent to their existence. How in- 
 consistent to heap flowers upon the casket of one 
 who in life cared no more for them than did the dog 
 who followed at his heels, if we make no effort to in- 
 terest and attract those now living. Eyes that see 
 not, figuratively, may often be made to see literally 
 the beauties of nature. We owe it to our kind of 
 every race to clothe the earth with beauty so far as 
 it lies within our power. There are few so unfor- 
 tunately situated that they may not gladden the sight 
 of all by making one or more flowers blossom where 
 none grew or blossomed before. 
 
 SUCCESSION OF BLOOM 
 
 In arranging your garden try to so plant that you 
 will have a succession of bloom throughout the year. 
 It is comparatively easy to accomplish this with the 
 long lists of annuals and perennials at hand, but it 
 may be done with annuals alone, especially if care 
 is taken to cut back some of those that grew straggly 
 and top-heavy after the first flush of blossoming. 
 
 When planting annuals select some that are cap- 
 able of rejuvenation in midsummer, otherwise there 
 will be few flowers in late summer just before the 
 autumn crop is available. This neglect is a mistake 
 common with gardeners, so that about August and
 
 72 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 September the places under their charge become 
 ragged, colorless and unsightly. Annuals common 
 everywhere that may be cut back and rejuvenated 
 in midsummer are: Achillea, alyssum, calliopsis, 
 marigold, pinks, nasturtium and Phlox Drummondi. 
 After cutting back give them a light feed of bone- 
 meal, keep free from weeds and stir the soil lightly 
 wherever it is possible. There are many other an- 
 nuals which may be cut back and a fresh crop of 
 flowers brought out. 
 
 NATIVE CALIFORNIA ANNUALS 
 
 No wild flowers in the world are superior to those 
 native to California, and to visitors from other states 
 and other countries they prove most attractive and 
 interesting. The following list is especially recom- 
 mended as one of native annuals that are low in 
 price, requiring no care after planting except weed- 
 ing, and successive crops of seeds may easily be har- 
 vested from them by any intelligent child, thus plac- 
 ing them within reach of all classes for all time. The 
 first five are especially recommended for parkway or 
 garden, and all are desirable for either purpose. 
 None requiring special care, position or exposure 
 have been included, but all are the hardiest of the 
 hardy. 
 
 Eschscholtzia Calif ornica, California poppy; too 
 well known to need description. In reality a peren- 
 nial, but usually treated as an annual. 
 
 Lupinus nanus, the dwarf blue lupine. An annual 
 ten to fifteen inches high; a very showy plant, 
 branching from the base; stems and leaves hairy. 
 Flowers in small racemes, rich blue and white, fra- 
 grant. Very effective for sowing in masses. 
 
 Layia elegans, tidy tips. Annual, one to two feet 
 high. A yellow daisy edged with white or cream
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 73 
 
 color. Leaves narrow with gracefully-toothed mar- 
 gins. One of our most common and most popular 
 wild flowers. 
 
 Any one or all three of the following species of 
 gilia: Gilia achillaefolia, blue gilia, annual one 
 to one and a half feet high, with small lavender-blue 
 flowers in dense heads on graceful slender stems, and 
 light feathery leaves. Gilia capitata, another blue 
 gilia; also annual, one and a half to two and a half 
 feet high, a slender-growing, somewhat branched 
 plant, with finely-cut foliage and compact heads of 
 light blue flowers. Gilia tri-color, bird's eyes. An 
 annual nine inches to one foot high; flowers pale 
 lilac, yellow toward the center, with five purple spots, 
 a charming combination of colors. 
 
 Mentzelia Lindleyi, blazing star. Annual, two to 
 three feet high, yellowish stems; deeply-toothed 
 green leaves. Flowers large, of delicate silken tex- 
 ture, color a rich golden yellow. One of the most 
 brilliant of all native flowers, especially valuable for 
 sowing in dry, sandy or rocky places, continuing in 
 flower until midsummer. 
 
 Other desirable sorts are: Lupinus affinis, blue 
 lupine, one to two feet high ; Clarkia elegans, purple, 
 two to three feet high; Coreopsis Stillmani, or C. 
 Douglasi, both yellow, six to twelve inches ; Godetia 
 amoena, bottae, or grandiflora, all pink or pink with 
 crimson spots, one to two feet high; Collinsia bi- 
 color, white, lilac, and purple, one to two feet high ; 
 Linanthus densiflorus, rose pink or lilac, one to two 
 feet high ; Nemophila insignis and N. maculata, blue, 
 four to eight inches ; Phacelia Whitlavia, purple, one 
 foot high; Salvia carduacea, light blue, one to two 
 feet high.
 
 74 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 EXOTIC AND HYBRID ANNUALS 
 
 In annuals not native to California, I would rec- 
 ommend the following list, also beginning with the 
 five best in the order given. 
 
 Calendula, Prince of Orange. Annual, one foot 
 high. Flowers large and double and of rich orange 
 color. The best of the so-called marigolds. 
 
 Linum rubrum, the scarlet flax. One to two feet 
 high, of a most brilliant scarlet; seed self-sowing 
 very freely. 
 
 Mixed annual larkspurs, one to two feet high, in 
 blue and white. 
 
 Poppies, especially the Shirley. A splendid effect 
 may be gained by sowing with them either oats or 
 canary grass. Colors range from white to crimson 
 with black blotches. 
 
 Mixed candytuft in white, pinks, lilac and car- 
 mine, one foot high. 
 
 Other good sorts are : Sweet alyssum, white, six 
 to ten inches ; Calliopsis, mixed, one to two feet high, 
 yellow and brown; centaurea, the corn flower, one 
 to two feet high, white, lilac, and shades of blue; 
 cosmos, mixed, sown in October or early in Novem- 
 ber will grow but one to three feet, in white, pink 
 and red; French marigold, for summer flowering, 
 one to two feet, yellows, browns and reds; nastur- 
 tiums, great range of colors ; Phlox Drummondi ; one 
 foot high, white, pinks, yellows, scarlet and crim- 
 son ; portulaca, all colors, for summer flowering ; zin- 
 nias, all colors, for summer flowering. 
 
 THE TRUE POPPIES 
 
 Owing to the great range and brilliancy of their 
 colors, the true poppies are favorites in nearly every 
 garden. Added to this the ease with which they 
 grow has made a place for them with nearly all flow-
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 75 
 
 er lovers. Of garden poppies, there are usually culti- 
 vated but four species : The opium poppy, the corn 
 poppy, the Iceland poppy, and the oriental poppy. 
 Of these the opium poppy is by far the greatest 
 favorite and has the largest flowers of any annual 
 species. Though useless for cut flowers, the plants 
 are tall and stately and bear an abundance of blos- 
 soms in brilliant colors so that people are content to 
 leave the flowers unpicked. 
 
 The corn poppy is more dwarf than the opium 
 poppy* with finer-cut leaves. The well-known Shir- 
 ley poppy is the best and most popular strain of this 
 species. The Iceland poppy is a perennial species 
 with shades of red, yellow, and white, and is not 
 much grown in California. With many garden own- 
 ers the oriental poppy is the favorite because it has 
 the largest flowers of all the family. In the East 
 it is the easiest of all to grow either from seeds or 
 by root division, but in our state the air seems too 
 dry. Still, it grows fairly well if never allowed to 
 suffer for moisture. All these poppies are easy of 
 cultivation ; all like rich soil and a generous supply 
 of water. Poppies are best sown broadcast and 
 should be weeded until they get a good start, and 
 then, if sown thickly enough, they will care for them- 
 selves, except for watering. 
 
 SWEET PEAS 
 
 In the growing of sweet peas too much stress can- 
 not be placed upon the necessity for early and deep 
 planting if vigorous growth and luxuriant bloom are 
 desired. The bed should be prepared some time in 
 advance of planting and spaded at least one foot in 
 depth, all the better if two feet, with a dressing of 
 three inches of well rotted manure spaded in and 
 thoroughly incorporated, to insure the roots plenty
 
 76 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 of protection from the heat later on and deep soil to 
 draw upon, for they are gross feeders. Plant the 
 seed at least two inches deep. 
 
 As soon as the plants show the slightest tendency 
 to vine they should be provided with a support to 
 which the tendrils may attach themselves. Nothing 
 is better or more convenient for this purpose than 
 wire netting which may be purchased by the yard. 
 It should be six feet high for the winter flowering 
 varieties and eight feet for the Spencer sorts. 
 
 The sweet pea is one of the thirstiest of plants, 
 and when the earth and atmosphere give forth little 
 moisture should daily receive a generous allowance 
 of water, not a mere sprinkling but a drenching. 
 This neglect to water regularly and thoroughly ac- 
 counts for many failures in sweet pea culture. An- 
 other essential to satisfactory sweet pea growing is 
 a sunny exposure. Those grown in the shade are 
 neither so thrifty nor is the bloom so rich in color 
 or so abundant as when grown in the sun. The sweet 
 pea grower should remember that to be prodigal in 
 the cutting of the bloom is the surest way to secure 
 an increase. The seed may be planted early in the 
 fall of the year with excellent results. 
 
 HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS 
 
 Nothing adds more of quiet charm and homelike- 
 ness to a garden than the herbaceous perennial bor- 
 der. It is adapted to gardens of any style or any 
 amount of care, but in gardens where only a limited 
 care can be given, those that are occasionally neg- 
 lected for a time, the use of perennials will give 
 much more satisfaction than annuals. 
 
 Perennials root deeply in the soil and most of them 
 make a fine fibrous system, often running into thou- 
 sands of hair-like roots on a single clump of plants.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 77 
 
 Such an arrangement well fits them for successfully 
 enduring drouths and periods of neglect. Good care 
 must of necessity be given the first summer to in- 
 sure the proper development of a feeding system. 
 Most of these plants will grow where any plant will. 
 Good garden soil, warm and light, rather than cold 
 and heavy, is preferable. They do not do well in 
 wet undrained soil. Fine manure, carefully forked 
 in each spring, pays in better plants and more 
 flowers. 
 
 There is no part of a garden where so much in 
 the way of good flowers may be cut without in any 
 manner marring the general effect, for it is neces- 
 sary in order to keep up the floral supply that the 
 plants be freely cut away in the flower-bearing 
 spikes. Some lovely effects may be obtained by a 
 judicious arrangement of them either on a large or 
 small scale. An ideal position for such borders is 
 where the background of a hedge or fence is ob- 
 tainable ; in front of this in beds of suitable breadth 
 and length with preferably irregular outline on the 
 outer margin arrange the various plants, grouping 
 the taller specimens in the background and the 
 dwarf er sorts in the front. 
 
 OLD FASHIONED FLOWERS 
 
 They ain't no style about 'em, 
 
 And they're sort of pale and faded; 
 
 Yet the doorway here, without 'em, 
 
 Would be lonesomer, and shaded 
 
 With a good deal blacker shadder 
 
 Than the mornin'-glory makes, 
 
 And the sunshine would look sadder, 
 
 For their good old-fashioned sakes. Riley. 
 
 If more of these old-fashioned perennials were 
 used we would hear far less about having "no flow-
 
 78 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 ers in summer," and "our garden is so bare of plants 
 during hot weather." The perennials among the 
 asters, sunflowers, and some others are not so large 
 and showy as the annual species, but are much easier 
 to grow, and their permanence makes them ex- 
 tremely desirable as compared with the annual 
 species. 
 
 There is here appended a list of fifty as they oc- 
 cur to the author, but this list has not touched upon 
 some classes of plants and could be extended into 
 the hundreds: ageratum, anemone, aster, begonia, 
 boltonia, candytuft, canna, Canterbury bell, chrys- 
 anthemum, coreopsis, cuphea, daisy, dahlia, day lily, 
 - evening primrose, foxglove, forget-me-not, fuchsia, 
 gaillardia, geranium, goldenrod, grasses, heliotrope, 
 heuchera, hibiscus, hollyhock, hunnemannia, iris, 
 larkspur, lavender, linum, lobelia, lupine, nierem- 
 bergia, pansy, petunia, phlox, pink, poppy, prim- 
 rose, rudbeckia, salvia, snapdragon, statice, stevia, 
 stocks, sweet alyssum, sweet william, verbena, violet, 
 wallflower. 
 
 PERENNIAL PHLOX 
 
 These old-fashioned plants, in their newer and 
 improved types, make one of the most imposing dis- 
 plays of color that it is possible to obtain in the gar- 
 den. It is not many years since there were but two 
 or three colors grown. The phloxes of our grand- 
 mother's garden were the small-flowered white, 
 pink, and purple varieties. Today we have them in 
 every color from pure white to darkest crimson, 
 with all the intervening shades of salmon, scarlet, 
 rose, pink striped, etc., with enormous individual 
 blooms carried in large, beautifully formed trusses. 
 
 Phloxes do remarkably well in California, fur- 
 nishing a constant display from early spring to the
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 79 
 
 advent of winter frosts. They are true perennials 
 and increase in vigor and beauty each succeeding 
 year. For massing or planting at intervals in mixed 
 borders they are beautiful subjects. Their charm- 
 ing bright colors are pleasing to the eye and the 
 delicious wild-flower-like scent of the blooms is un- 
 like that of any other garden plants. Phloxes thrive 
 in an open, fully exposed, sunny border, either plant- 
 ed by themselves or mixed with other herbaceous 
 plants. They are not particular as to soil so long 
 as it has been well enriched previous to planting and 
 is given an occasional mulch of rotted manure. 
 
 PELARGONIUMS 
 
 Pelargoniums, or Lady Washington geraniums, 
 are among the most beautiful of our summer and 
 fall flowering plants. They offer a rich and varied 
 assortment of colors or combination of colors, and 
 the ease with which they may be grown should rec- 
 ommend them to all. 
 
 To do well they require a sunny position and a 
 perfectly drained soil which is not too rich. They 
 are at home against a south wall where the reflected 
 rays of a summer sun would destroy the bloom on 
 almost any other plant. To keep them in shape they 
 should be pinched back from time to time previous 
 to the blooming season. By stopping the growth in 
 this manner, many flowering lateral growths are 
 produced. 
 
 FUCHSIAS 
 
 Fuchsias do well in any well protected north bor- 
 der and bloom in great profusion during the greater 
 part of the year. Give them a well prepared soil 
 which has been thoroughly enriched with decom- 
 posed manure and a copious supply of water during 
 hot weather.
 
 80 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 They require a partially shaded position; a rich, 
 well-drained soil with abundance of moisture during 
 hot weather. They make a beautiful background 
 plant in shady borders and may be grown in various 
 shapes to suit the requirements of the bed. A good 
 plan is to grow them on fan-shaped trellises four 
 or five feet high ; as the growths develop spread them 
 out and tie neatly. When they reach the top, pinch 
 off the shoots; this induces a heavy growth below, 
 and the trellis will soon be covered with a heavy 
 leafy growth, and in season with plenty of flowers. 
 
 CANNAS 
 
 Cannas grow so easily that they are too often neg- 
 lected, with the result that half of the beauty they 
 are capable of developing is lost. If liberal treat- 
 ment is afforded them they will produce a dazzling 
 blaze of color. 
 
 For subtropical garden effects, used with various 
 grasses such as cyperus, papyrus, eulalias, crimson 
 fountain grass or caladiums, they are unexcelled. In 
 planting them for landscape effect it must be remem- 
 bered that they are a background flower, and the 
 best display is obtained by massing them. In this 
 favored clime cannas bloom almost throughout the 
 year. 
 
 MODERN PERENNIAL LARKSPURS 
 
 Hybrids of Delphinium belladonna contain not 
 only the sky-blue of the parent type, but all tints 
 from palest to darkest blue. The various interven- 
 ing shades of sapphire, turquoise, indigo, etc., are 
 rich and beautiful. They branch freely from the 
 crown and bloom without intermission from early 
 spring to late autumn, with an increasing vigor to 
 the plants each succeeding season. The blossoms 
 are much larger than those of the older variety.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 81 
 
 They should be planted in full sun, two feet apart 
 each way, in any good loamy soil to which has been 
 added and thoroughly dug in a liberal dressing of 
 well rotted manure. An occasional mulch of the 
 same material during the hot months will greatly 
 increase the quality of the bloom. Arrange the 
 beds so that the plants may be irrigated either by 
 the trench method or by flooding. Sprinkling over- 
 head, as with numerous other plants is detrimental 
 in many ways and should not be practiced. 
 
 FOR SANDY OR ALKALINE SOILS 
 
 Use should be made of desert vegetation so far 
 as possible. Most California wild flowers that grow 
 on our open plains will thrive in arid sections. Ger- 
 aniums and petunias are two splendid drouth resis- 
 tant plants, and chrysanthemums, German iris, can- 
 nas, elephants' ears and Himalayan bamboos may all 
 be seen in the Coachella Valley. 
 
 In alkaline soils try: The giant reed, Arundo 
 donax ; New Zealand flax, Phormium tenax ; pampas 
 grass, Cortaderia argenta; aloes, asparagus, lav- 
 ender, lupin, ice plant, yucca, chrysanthemum 
 and all nearly related plants of the composite family 
 seem to like alkali. 
 
 CARNATION PROPAGATION 
 
 Propagating carnations by cuttings is quicker and 
 easier than layering ; in fact, except in the case of a 
 variety that requires special attention and is diffi- 
 cult to root, it is the best for all purposes. The 
 shoots at the base of the plant are the best to put 
 into the cutting bed. Those that appear on the flow- 
 er stems are of inferior quality and will in time show 
 signs of degeneration. The same will be the case if 
 cuttings are taken from exhausted blooming plants ;
 
 82 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 for this reason the flower stems should be removed 
 as soon as the flowers on them are faded. 
 
 Some growers do not allow the plants from which 
 they intend to take cuttings to bloom at all, so as to 
 send all the strength into the plant. Cuttings must 
 be taken only from healthiest stock and should have 
 an average length of four inches with at least one 
 inch of clean stem. When taken off close to the 
 branch or stem out of the joint of a leaf no further 
 trimming of the heel is necessary. When the shoot 
 is long and requires a cut with the knife the cut 
 should be made at a joint so that the two leaves can 
 be peeled off and leave a clean heel. If cut too far 
 back of a joint the wood is hard and difficult to root; 
 if cutting is too young and tender the epidermis or 
 skin is damaged, and the part below the joint is 
 robbed of its outer covering and is very liable to 
 rot off. 
 
 The best material in which to root them is clean 
 river sand or very fine gravel, three or four inches 
 deep, with good drainage. The cuttings may be 
 planted one inch apart in the rows and two to three 
 inches between rows. Insert them about one inch 
 deep, and if there are any leaves that would be bur- 
 ied in the sand, cut them off. In putting in the cut- 
 tings use a pointed stick called a dibble, or dibber. It 
 can be made one-quarter of an inch thick and pointed 
 like a lead pencil. Make the hole with the dibble 
 and put in the cutting, and then make the sand firm 
 at the base of the cutting. It is a good plan to let 
 the cuttings stand in water twelve hours after pick- 
 ing and before planting. Never let a cutting wilt. 
 
 After the cuttings are in they should be shaded. 
 The best thing to use is newspapers. Lay them on 
 top of the box of cuttings, keeping them away from 
 foliage by sticking in the sand a few little splinters
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 83 
 
 of wood to bear weight of papers. One thickness 
 is enough. Cuttings should be kept from drafts so 
 as to avoid evaporation in the foliage and should also 
 be sprayed two or three times a day for the first 
 week or ten days in bright weather, and the sand 
 should never be allowed to get dry. After ten days 
 they can be given some sun. It will take six weeks 
 for them to root, and they should never be allowed 
 to remain in the sand any considerable length of time 
 after they are fairly rooted. 
 
 Carnations prefer a deep loamy soil which has 
 been well enriched with rotted manure. The posi- 
 tions for the beds should be in full sun. Plant in 
 rows two and one-half feet apart, with the plants 
 fifteen inches apart in the row. This arrangement 
 allows for liberal cultivation and irrigation by small 
 trenches along both sides of the row. They do far 
 better under this system of watering than when 
 sprinkled. To obtain the largest sized blooms, re- 
 move when quite small all the lateral buds, leaving 
 only the terminal, as is done in disbudding chrysan- 
 themums. 
 
 WILD GARDENS 
 
 When copious rains have fallen and the soil is 
 wetted to considerable depth, it is time to sow gar- 
 dens where the seeds are to be broadcast and no 
 subsequent cultivation is contemplated. If such 
 areas have been worked over, weed seeds started 
 and the plantlets destroyed, they are ready for plant- 
 ing. If the area is still in a raw state allow the 
 weed seeds time to start, then thoroughly hoe over 
 the surface, allow time for weeds to die and the lag- 
 gard ones to spring into life, then hoe over again, 
 sow your seeds, rake over and pulverize the surface 
 and let nature do the rest, for this latter is some-
 
 84 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 thing in which you cannot render much aid. If one 
 pulling of weeds can be given while plants are very 
 small, from the vantage point of boards laid on the 
 surface, much better results will ensue. 
 
 HOUSE BORDERS 
 
 Every building should have a space for plants 
 left close to the foundation. No cement or other 
 walks should be built within three feet if conditions 
 will allow such space to be left, and in new places 
 this is always possible. The angle formed by ground 
 and building should be filled with plants and an occa- 
 sional vine should clamber over a corner or along a 
 porch. The house should appear to rise out of a 
 mass of shrubs and plants, as a gem rises above its 
 setting. No place has a proper finish without such 
 provision for embellishment. 
 
 BRIGHT COLORS NEEDED 
 
 Too many home places suffer from a lack of tone 
 or color. Many plants with light-colored flowers, 
 vast stretches of cement or gravel walks, faded and 
 undecided shade in the house paint, all tend to a 
 wishy-washy effect that is sadly in need of brighten- 
 ing. Such conditions call for not a mere touch of 
 color, but a dominance of some strong-growing ef- 
 fective plant. Scarlet geraniums or Ragged Robin 
 roses in masses or hedges will bring the desired 
 effect and produce a really wonderful transforma- 
 tion in what was formerly a very uninteresting 
 prospect.
 
 A CALIFORNIA WATER GARDEN 
 
 Floating on a Victoria Leaf
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 WATER GARDENS AND AQUATICS 
 
 In a country like ours where there is a scarcity 
 of rivers, lakes, ponds, etc., yet where ice seldom 
 forms, artificial bodies of water, however small, are 
 much appreciated. Here we may have some sort 
 of a water garden throughout the year. Many peo- 
 ple hesitate to incorporate a lily pond in plans for 
 the home grounds because of the general, but erron- 
 eous, impression that such features are quite costly. 
 The expense of water gardening is almost entirely 
 that of first cost, the subsequent expense as com- 
 pared with any other like garden area being small 
 indeed. 
 
 No garden, however large or small, is complete 
 without an aquatic department. Water, with its 
 attendant vegetable and animal life, lends a more 
 varied and varying charm to the landscape, near or 
 distant, than any other garden accessory. The great 
 range in form of aquatic plants and flowers simply 
 baffles description or intelligent comparison, and in 
 the long list of possibilities are plants adapted to or- 
 dinary damp soil and on down the line to those which 
 will grow only when wholly beneath the water at all 
 times, like the wonderful water fern and several 
 other denizens of the cerulean depths. 
 
 Add to all this the animal life, from the sluggish 
 water snail to the never-resting paradise fish, the 
 graceful sweep and beauteous colors of the f antailed 
 goldfish, and one has a world in miniature though 
 his garden contain but a small pond for aquatics
 
 86 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 a never-ending and ever-changing source of enjoy- 
 ment. Even in lands of much natural water the 
 chief charm of the garden is a well-stocked pond or 
 lake, but in a country like California, with few 
 streams of size or inland bodies of note, water in 
 a garden adds a wealth and variety impossible to 
 produce with any other agency. 
 
 Many are deterred from acquiring a water garden 
 through fear of cost and care, but this phase of gar- 
 dening is only costly when one builds on a large 
 scale. You may have your goldfish and water lilies 
 in one or more half-barrels if but one, a pair of 
 fan-tailed goldfish costs but a dollar and a plant of 
 the more common kinds of water lilies the same, so 
 that all you need is a half-barrel and two dollars. 
 Care there is not, for this proper balance of animal 
 and vegetable life keeps the water pure and clear at 
 all times. 
 
 AQUATIC FLOWERS 
 
 In the great family of nymphea alone the range 
 of color starts with the purest white and ranges by 
 an almost imperceptible gradation to three strik- 
 ingly deep and beautiful extremes of color orange, 
 crimson and blue, the two latter being really maroon 
 and indigo, respectively, so intensely deep and sub- 
 stantial are these wonderful colorings. Only one 
 other class of plants yields flowers of such exquisite 
 color and texture the tropical orchids, and then 
 only when grown under glass with tropical heat and 
 moisture and in no wise rivalling the aquatics in 
 size of bloom. 
 
 The greatest charm of the water garden lies in 
 the ability of every one to grow these blossoms of 
 richest hue in the open garden with nothing to be 
 done but watch them unfold their magnificence under
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 87 
 
 the magic influence of our almost tropic summer sun. 
 The range in the size of aquatic flowers is fully as 
 striking as that in color; the little white lily from 
 Siberia has flowers no larger than a half-dollar, yet 
 as perfect in all its parts and as full of series of 
 petals as the giant lily of the Amazon, victoria, over 
 a foot across. Still smaller than the Siberian is the 
 dainty little frosted snowflake flower. 
 
 All flowering aquatics should be planted so that 
 they will be exposed to full sunlight. 
 
 MAKING THE POND 
 
 Every one may have at least a half barrel sunk in 
 the ground for a good water lily plant. In a country 
 of vineyards it should be easy to get a large wine 
 barrel. Sink one or both halves in the soil to within 
 three inches of the top of staves. Put in just a foot 
 of pond muck, leaf-mold soil or even a good garden 
 loam, and in this plant your lily bulbs. After plant- 
 ing, pour in water very carefully so as not to dis- 
 turb the soil, until a few inches above surface of 
 soil. After the leaves begin to grow gradually fill 
 with water. These miniature water gardens are in- 
 expensive and a source of much pleasure. 
 
 In making a pond the excavated soil can be used 
 in forming the banks of varied heights and config- 
 urations. The outline of the pond, like that of a belt 
 of trees or shrubbery border skirting a lawn, should 
 be varied and irregular, with bold points and deep 
 indentations, and these should be few and bold 
 rather than frequent and tame. The resemblance 
 between a level lawn, surrounded by curved outlines 
 of shrubbery, and that of a smooth sheet of water 
 in a pond or small lake, with jutting banks and retir- 
 ing bays, is very close, so far as relates to their 
 artistic treatment in ornamental planting. The most
 
 88 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 natural position for a sheet of water is in a hollow 
 or low spot in the grounds. The total depth of the 
 pond should be two feet and four inches. 
 
 KEEPING THE WATER PURE 
 
 Ponds need a renewal of water only when they 
 get their annual cleaning out, and a little occasion- 
 ally to replace that lost by evaporation, etc. If the 
 proper balance of animal and vegetable life is main- 
 tained it naturally follows that all the inmates are 
 living under perfectly natural conditions. Who has 
 not noticed that natural ponds containing animal 
 and vegetable life have clear, pure water throughout 
 the year? Aquatic animal life abstracts oxygen gas 
 from the water and gives off carbonic acid gas ; this 
 latter vegetable life absorbs and sets free the oxygen. 
 The author has kept a pair of golden carp, or "gold- 
 fish," in one gallon of water without changing it 
 for several months. The only other contents were 
 a few pebbles and a single water plant. If this can 
 be done it should prove an easy matter to preserve 
 the proper balance in a pond. A few healthy fish 
 will also keep the pond clear of mosquitoes, as all of 
 them will be greedily devoured while in the "wrig- 
 gler" stage. 
 
 All tanks, ponds or lakes should have submerged 
 plants growing in them to aerify the water, thereby 
 keeping it pure and sweet. The best plants for this 
 purpose are Anacharis Canadensis gigantea, Ca- 
 bomba viridifolia, Sagittaria natans and Vallisneria 
 spiralis. These can be planted in water from six 
 inches to two feet deep. 
 
 WHAT TO PLANT 
 
 Forty varieties of water lilies, besides many small 
 water plants, as also ten varieties of Egyptian lotus,
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 89 
 
 growing luxuriantly and sending forth many blos- 
 soms give witness that our climate is certainly suit- 
 able to the cultivation of the tenderest of aquatic 
 plants. Before selection for color, etc., it is best to 
 send for the catalogue of a dealer in aquatics. 
 
 HARDY WATER LILIES 
 
 Nympheas : Aurora, candidissima, Gladstoniana, 
 gloriosa, lucida, Marliacea carnea, M. chromatella, 
 M. Robinsoni, M. rosea, odorata Caroliniana, pyg- 
 maea and pygmaea helvola. 
 
 TROPICAL DAY-BLOOMING 
 
 Nymphea Pennsylvania, Zanzibarensis, Z. azurea, 
 and Z. rosea. 
 
 TROPICAL NIGHT-BLOOMING 
 
 Nymphea dentata grandiflora, dentata superba, 
 Devoniensis, and George Huster. 
 
 Old plants of tropical lilies often succumb to the 
 chill of water during winter. Small nut-like tubers 
 produced by keeping seedling plants in four-inch 
 pots during summer, are more hardy and responsive 
 than old crowns that have flowered. 
 
 FINE CALIFORNIA HYBRIDS 
 
 Several years ago a new series of hybrids ap- 
 peared in a commercial water garden in Los An- 
 geles, produced by the crossing of N. gracilis with 
 N. Zanzibarensis and its varieties. They are strong 
 and vigorous growers, producing very freely flowers 
 much larger than N. gracilis, being eight to ten 
 inches across, on stems standing fifteen inches or 
 more out of the water. They increase freely by 
 offsets, producing large tubers which are perfectly 
 hardy in the citrus belts of California. The flowers 
 are very useful for cutting as they can be placed in
 
 90 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 vases in the same manner as ordinary garden 
 flowers. 
 
 THE GIANT VICTORIA 
 
 Victoria Cruziana is the best variety of Victoria 
 for growing in the open in California. Seeds should 
 be started in January in water at eighty degrees, 
 
 
 EGYPTIAN LOTUS
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 91 
 
 and the plants kept in a warm greenhouse until 
 June 1st, when they may be planted out in the pond. 
 This is the grandest of all aquatic plants. Leaves 
 are not infrequently six feet across and flowers are 
 one foot, of purest white, later turning to pink. As 
 the plant is an annual, hard to grow from seeds, 
 it will be better to buy young plants from a dealer 
 in aquatics. 
 
 EGYPTIAN LOTUS 
 
 Nelumbiums, popularly known as Egyptian lotus, 
 attain the greatest perfection if planted in the heav- 
 iest adobe soil, fertilized soon after planting out 
 and each spring thereafter with dried blood at the 
 rate of one pound to each ten square feet of surface. 
 
 There are many varieties, but those found to do 
 best in California and now accepted as standards 
 are : Nelumbium album grandiflora, album striatum, 
 Osiris, Pekinensis rubrum plenum, roseum plenum, 
 Shiroman, and speciosum. 
 
 SUITABLE SOIL 
 
 The most suitable soil for water plants in general, 
 with the exception of nelumbiums, is a rich loam 
 and the best rotted horse or cow manure mixed to- 
 gether in equal parts, with the addition of one or 
 one and a half pounds of bone meal to each wheel- 
 barrow load of soil, and we must not omit seeing 
 that the mixing is done thoroughly. Nelumbiums 
 love heavy loam or heavy, greasy clay, well enriched, 
 as do all other water plants. They do not thrive 
 and seldom or never blossom in sand or in soil 
 strongly mixed with sand. 
 
 Lilies which are grown in beds of soil or in natural 
 ponds will be much benefited by an application in 
 spring of dried blood manure, broadcasted on the 
 surface of the water at the rate of one pound to
 
 92 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 every ten square feet of surface. Those in boxes 
 and tubs need the same fertilizing. 
 
 When tanks, half barrels, or tubs are used, and 
 after the soil has been filled in, a layer of pure sand 
 to the thickness of two inches should be put on top, 
 to prevent the fertilizing substances which have been 
 mixed with the soil from rising to the surface. When 
 using tanks or tubs it is necessary to see that they 
 are exposed or built in places where they will re- 
 ceive a large amount of sunshine during the day, as 
 this is one of the main points in successful cultiva- 
 tion. 
 
 BUILDING AN AQUARIUM 
 
 After trying to make a wooden one hold water and 
 wasting two month's patience and hard work, I built 
 
 two of one inch angle iron, 13x16x26 inches, and 
 they did not leak a drop and look as well as though 
 I had paid a fancy price for them. I gave them a 
 coating of red lead inside before putting in the glass 
 and painted outside with black iron varnish. 
 
 Use the following mixture for cement ; it is an old
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 93 
 
 receipt, but as reliable as can be made: Take 3 
 parts litharge; 3 parts fine white sand, perfectly 
 dry; 3 parts plaster of Paris; 1 part finely pulver- 
 ized resin. Mix thoroughly and make into a soft 
 putty with linseed oil to which some dryer has been 
 added. You may use the cement in two hours after 
 mixing and put water in tanks in less than twelve 
 hours after setting the glass. Use second-hand plate 
 glass for sides and ends and one-fourth inch sky- 
 light glass, corrugated on one side for bottom. 
 
 CARE OF AQUARIUM 
 
 When the aquarium is to be thoroughly cleaned 
 and rearranged, which should be done once or twice 
 every year, the water is carefully dipped out or 
 drawn off with a rubber syphon to within about six 
 inches from the bottom. This water, if practicable, 
 is saved and used again when the tank is refilled. 
 The older the water the better. The author has 
 used water for years in this way. Next take out the 
 rockwork, then all the plants, also the larger pebbles, 
 and now carefully catch and remove the fish, etc., 
 placing them in a clean tin vessel with plenty of 
 water of suitable temperature. Take out the re- 
 mainder of the water now and also the sand, but do 
 not move the tank, if a heavy one, from its position. 
 After washing the sand particles off the inside of 
 the glass to prevent scratching, clean the entire in- 
 side of the tank by rubbing it with ordinary table 
 salt, using the fingers instead of a brush. All the 
 brownish or green matter being taken off the tank 
 is once more washed with clean water and is then 
 ready for replanting. 
 
 WATER-GARDEN PESTS 
 
 Innumerable kinds of aquatic insects breed in the 
 water, and some of their larvae prey upon the leaves
 
 94 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 of the lilies, but the common water snail is the great- 
 est enemy of aquatic plants. The goldfish assist very 
 materially in destroying these larvae and snails, but 
 we have found a complete preventive of injury to 
 the foliage from this source by keeping in the tank, 
 in addition to the goldfish, some of the common spot- 
 ted sunfish. They are carnivorous in habit and very 
 alert and active. Moreover, it is impossible for mos- 
 quitoes to breed in a water lily basin in which an 
 abundance of the above named fish, or those of sim- 
 ilar habit, are kept. Thus one objection to locating 
 these tanks or ponds in the vicinity of the dwelling- 
 house is removed. 
 
 WATER-SIDE IRIS 
 
 The apogon, or beardless iris, is a very interesting 
 section and contains some very beautiful species and 
 varieties. Some of these are as easy of culture as 
 those in the bearded section, while some require more 
 moisture and different treatment. Many are excel- 
 lent for planting around lily ponds, in tubs, etc., par- 
 ticularly the taller growing varieties, where the 
 roots receive plenty of moisture during the grow- 
 ing and blooming period. Like nearly all of the 
 genus, when the plants are established they can 
 be allowed to dry out for a time during the sum- 
 mer months in fact, most of them are the better 
 for it which is an excellent feature, as it is a time 
 when our gardening enthusiasm wanes. A few in 
 this section do remarkably well with no more mois- 
 ture than our bearded irises receive.
 
 THE TROPIC-AMERICAN CERIMAN 
 Monstera deliciosa
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 HOUSE AND PORCH PLANTS 
 
 Henry Ward Beecher declared that he always 
 found house plants an infallible test in selecting ac- 
 quaintances, neatness, cleanliness, and innumerable 
 virtues being the usual accompaniments of a love of 
 flowers. It is an unquestionable fact that the culti- 
 vation and care of plants instills love of nature 
 and has an uplifting and ennobling influence on man- 
 kind. Go where you will you meet with the best 
 reception in every way at such places where the 
 greatest love is manifest for the beauties of nature. 
 When the traveler comes upon a home where there 
 is a roomy, well-planned, well-kept garden he at once 
 feels a desire to know the inmates personally, for 
 he is certain to find there more or less generosity, 
 intelligence and refinement. 
 
 HOUSE PLANTS 
 
 Many people are thoroughly discouraged with try- 
 ing to grow house plants, when they might enjoy 
 healthy and beautiful specimens by observing a few 
 simple rules. You cannot take any plant you have 
 and keep it just where you would most like it for 
 effect without regard to what it needs. Many can- 
 not thrive without sunshine, while others require lit- 
 tle or none. 
 
 Every plant needs plenty of light, and nearly all 
 a little sun, and if they do not get it ill-health and 
 death will ensue. Scarcely a single pot plant re- 
 quires or will endure the same exposure or aspect
 
 96 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 throughout the year ; some will survive the sunshine 
 of winter but quickly succumb to the uninterrupted 
 summer sun. Give them plenty of fresh air, every 
 day, even in winter, leave the doors and windows 
 open as much as possible, but do not allow a strong, 
 cold draft to strike across tender plants. 
 
 Exercise great care in watering; hundreds of fine 
 plants are ruined by daily waterings. Water thor- 
 oughly, a generous soaking, filling up the pot three 
 or four times, about five minutes apart. Then let 
 them rest for several days, or until the earth gets 
 dry on top. A better plan for watering is to stand 
 the pots in a vessel of water for from ten to twenty 
 minutes. Air is as necessary to the roots of a plant 
 as it is to the top, and when confined in a pot soon 
 loses its life-giving properties and must be changed. 
 You may drive out the foul air by a thorough water- 
 ing and then when the water dries out it will be re- 
 placed by fresh air, thus giving perfect ventilation 
 to the soil. 
 
 POTTING AND REPOTTING 
 
 Need of repotting is shown when the pot is fairly 
 well filled with roots so that when the pot is removed 
 the ball of soil is held together and netted over with 
 good live roots. Some few plants need repotting 
 before this stage is reached ; still fewer should remain 
 unpotted longer, but both of these classes are marked 
 exceptions to the rule and need not be treated in 
 general advice on potting. Generally a shift to a 
 pot one size larger is enough and this but once a year, 
 preferably in the spring. Sometimes it is not neces- 
 sary to entirely repot. A considerable quantity of 
 the old soil can be dug out without seriously dis- 
 turbing the roots, and fresh soil given in its place. 
 This is an easier and quicker operation than entire
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 97 
 
 repotting and interferes less with the roots and their 
 functions and is advised in cases where it would seem 
 to be sufficient to meet the demands of the plant, as 
 may easily be the case if the potting soil is very rich. 
 The use of liquid fertilizer or concentrated forms of 
 dry commercial chemical fertilizers that are nearly 
 odorless is becoming so common that we find it safe 
 to do away with repotting for a long time, depend- 
 ing on the concentrated food furnished by these fer- 
 tilizers rather than fresh soil as heretofore. Re- 
 liable fertilizers are prepared on scientific formulas 
 and contain all the elements necessary for plant 
 growth in the most convenient and available form. 
 Repotting should generally be done in the spring and 
 before the plant makes its annual growth. There 
 will come to most plants a time when they seem 
 almost dormant, but after they have had a good 
 resting spell there will be signs of renewed growth 
 quite apparent to the observant grower. This is the 
 time to repot them. It is well to keep all freshly 
 potted or repotted plants from both wind, sun, or 
 rapid changes of temperature for several days and 
 sprinkle them lightly two or more times each day 
 for the first week. This treatment will aid mate- 
 rially in overcoming any shock the plant may have 
 received through injury or disturbance of its roots. 
 
 WINDOW BOXES 
 
 Buildings whose lines of architecture are unus- 
 ually stiff and conventional and whose colors are 
 quiet, like the Quaker drab of many plastered resi- 
 dences, need the vine and window garden more than 
 others. Delicate growth of vines takes away the 
 harsh effect of too many straight lines, softening 
 them into harmony with the surroundings. They 
 also relieve the glaring effect of plain walls of brick,
 
 98 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 cement, or stone. Window boxes are equally useful 
 and not less ornamental. 
 
 The plain neutral gray of Florentine mission 
 houses needs a touch of color to brighten their other- 
 wise somber appearance. It is also true that window 
 boxes do much to lighten the paint and stain effects 
 on wooden buildings. For the purpose nothing seems 
 more- suitable than ivy geraniums, and these may 
 be had in a great variety of colors or shades. For 
 dark buildings any shade from pure white to pink 
 will prove harmonious, but those having a touch of 
 magenta or purple should be avoided either in win- 
 dow box or garden. For the Quaker gray above 
 noted the pinks only should be used and the deeper 
 the gray or cream of plastered houses, the deeper 
 should be the shade of the flowers used. This class 
 of geraniums has been much improved of late, and 
 you may easily obtain any shade of pink desired. 
 
 While plants in window boxes should have plenty 
 of room to grow, it is also necessary to have them 
 somewhat effective at once, so that fair-sized plants 
 must be used. Therefore get large plants in small 
 pots and you will have them fairly showy from the 
 start and yet be able to plant them in small compass. 
 In nearly all cases window boxes are wholly insuf- 
 ficient in capacity, especially as regards depth, so 
 that care must be taken to have them filled with 
 none but the richest soil. For the same reason it is 
 best to remove from the roots of the plants used as 
 much soil as is possible safely, so that it may be 
 replaced by the fresh and stronger. 
 
 Owing to root disturbance it will be found advis- 
 able to keep the boxes cool and shaded for a few 
 days after planting, or until the plants have resumed 
 root action and former functions. In filling in the 
 soil it is best to put on the bottom, before setting
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 99 
 
 any plants, two or more inches of well-rotted manure 
 for future plant food ; in reserve, as it were. Econ- 
 omize in room as much as possible when planting; 
 no harm will result from pressing the balls of soil 
 about the roots quite flat if they are to lie against 
 the sides of the box. Plant the sides first and the 
 middle last, and get enough vines to fairly hide the 
 box. Care must be taken to see that all interstices 
 between plant balls are filled with soil, so that the 
 soil used should be finely sifted and not too wet. 
 
 After careful planting settle with thorough water- 
 ings, and then before putting in permanent position 
 fill up to within one to two inches of the top, using 
 finely-sifted, well-rotted manure for the top half -inch 
 to provide a mulch which will largely overcome the 
 evaporation of soil moisture. More window-box 
 plants during summer are ruined by too little than 
 by too much watering. The crimson-flowered lotus 
 (Lotus peliorensis) would prove just the plant for 
 such places. Do not confuse the botanical name, 
 lotus, which belongs to members of the pea family 
 (Leguminosae) , with the popular name, lotus, which 
 is often given to water plants of the genus nelumbo. 
 Our plant is a trailer with finely cut, grayish-green 
 foliage and crimson flowers of parrot-bill form ; flow- 
 ers closely resembling those of clianthus. It will 
 stand great heat and much drouth. 
 
 HANGING BASKETS 
 
 There is no class of plants so neglected as those in 
 hanging baskets. In their exposed position they 
 dry out very rapidly, and are often given only a lit- 
 tle water on top. The roots that need moisture so 
 much seldom receive any, and these baskets are any- 
 thing but ornaments. They should be taken down 
 at least once a week, placed in a tub of water and
 
 100 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 left there for half an hour. All of the plants should 
 be submerged. In very dry weather this should be 
 done twice a week, then they will be things of living 
 green, instead of withered, sickly plants. A little 
 liquid fertilizer given while they are wet will cause 
 them to make more rapid growth, and if of bloom- 
 ing kinds will cause more buds to appear. 
 
 One of the most useful plants for large hanging 
 baskets or shaded window boxes is the English ivy. 
 This old favorite can stand more rough usage and 
 neglect than any drooping plant or vine used for the 
 purpose. The climbing vinca or periwinkle, often 
 called climbing myrtle, is another rank-growing vine 
 for large baskets, but it is a gross feeder and will 
 not endure neglect like the ivy. The variegated gle- 
 choma is a neat, hardy little vine and even the maur- 
 andya is excellent for baskets. 
 
 Instead of allowing all vines to hang as they will, 
 pin or tie part of them to the moss or the basket so 
 as to hide the bareness of the latter. The Kenil- 
 worth ivy is a good plant for this purpose. Abutilon 
 vexillarium, nierembergia, ivy-leaved geranium are 
 all good for basket edges, or plant a border of lobelia. 
 While flowering plants should be used to give change 
 and pleasing variety, many prefer the plain green 
 of asparagus or ferns. Asparagus plumosus, often 
 called asparagus fern, does not require the amount 
 of soil or feeding that Asparagus Sprengeri does, nor 
 is it so hardy or tough, but it may be kept longer in 
 pot or basket. 
 
 Nephrolepis davallioides and its variety, furcans, 
 are two good sword ferns for baskets where plenty 
 of soil is present. N. exaltata, the common sword 
 fern, is a good "standing" plant and will endure 
 much abuse and neglect, but is seldom graceful 
 enough for baskets. N. tuberosa is a handsomer
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 101 
 
 species of dwarf er habit. Onychium, or carrot ferns, 
 are good subjects; O. auratum has a yellow tint on 
 the under side of leaf, and 0. Japonicum is green, 
 though in other respects quite like the first named 
 species. The platyceriums, or staghorn ferns, are 
 the most attractive of all for hanging or wall bas- 
 kets or on blocks of wood and when once well estab- 
 lished make good house plants. 
 
 All ferns or other plants with thick, leathery foli- 
 age endure the dust and dry air of living rooms 
 though they need liberal quantities of water. All of 
 the pteris or winged ferns are suitable for planting 
 in baskets, more especially the dwarfer sorts, for 
 they are of hardy constitution. Among other plants 
 for central positions, Begonia Erfordii and all of 
 that type are most excellent. A prime favorite with 
 all who know it is Farfugium grande, var. punctata, 
 the leopard leaf, a composite with nearly round 
 leaves of dark green thickly spotted with yellow 
 "polka dots." As these plants are all good material 
 for hanging baskets, they are also equally good for 
 pot culture and thrive splendidly in the house if 
 given a reasonable amount of care. 
 
 POPULAR HOUSE PLANTS 
 
 Flowering pot plants need not be pot-bound in 
 order to bloom, but they blossom much more freely 
 when the pot is fairly filled with roots. While a 
 plant is making a heavy root growth it rarely ever 
 flowers, but only when the season's growth is fin- 
 ished. This action suggests that a plant should fin- 
 ish blooming and also have a rest before it is re- 
 potted and called upon for another supreme effort. 
 
 HOUSE FERNS 
 
 Only a few of the many varieties of ferns will do 
 well under ordinary house conditions. Most vari-
 
 102 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 eties are too sensitive to the extremes of tempera- 
 ture and the dry air commonly found in living rooms, 
 and even the hardiest should occasionally be left out 
 of doors for a few days in order to recuperate dissi- 
 pated vigor. If house ferns could be put outside 
 every night their house life would be lengthened al- 
 most indefinitely. Occasionally they should be 
 sprayed, and to leave them outside for a time when 
 the rain is falling cannot fail of benefit. 
 
 One who has a fine collection of house ferns and 
 a few palms has found a very novel and successful 
 way of keeping them in first-class condition. About 
 once a week she places them in the bathroom, fills 
 the tub with water made as hot as possible, closes all 
 doors and windows and leaves the plants in this 
 steam bath for three or four hours. Then the win- 
 dows are gradually opened so as not to cool the 
 plants too quickly, and when the bathroom has come 
 down to normal temperature the plants are removed. 
 This treatment renders washing of the leaves un- 
 necessary, nor have any of these plants been attacked 
 by scale or other pests. 
 
 For a house fern the maidenhair most common in 
 our nurseries and florists' establishments, Adiantum 
 cuneatum, easily holds first place, though not so 
 hardy for the house as are the sword ferns and a 
 few others. 
 
 Asplenium nidus avis, bird's nest fern, is a very 
 handsome species with broad leaves. The mid-rib 
 is black in color, with a foliage otherwise of a golden 
 cast; a very desirable species for conservatories or 
 indoor decoration, being quite distinct from all other 
 ferns. 
 
 Cyrtomium falcatum, the holly fern, is an elegant 
 hardy species, with broad palmate fronds of a deep
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 103 
 
 glossy green. It grows readily in pots or may be 
 planted outside. 
 
 Nephrolepis exaltata, variety Bostoniensis, is but 
 a sport from the common sword fern which is native 
 to Florida and many other parts of the world. Dur- 
 ing the past few years we have seen a most remark- 
 able development of house ferns among sports from 
 the Boston fern until at present we have a half- 
 dozen forms more ornate : Nephrolepis Whitmani, 
 Witteboldii, Washingtoniensis, Piersoni, Alice Fos- 
 ter and elegantisssima. While all have merit, none 
 are so hardy in every way as the Boston fern. 
 
 Another neat sword fern is N. cordata compacta, 
 and for a small pot plant is to be preferred to the 
 Boston. Two plants closely related to the common 
 sword fern and representing the extremes in size, 
 are N. Philippinense, quite a dwarf, and N. Wash- 
 ingtoniensis which grows to a height of five or more 
 feet. 
 
 The platyceriums are a group of ferns that are 
 not sufficiently grown by the amateur plant fancier. 
 Fastened on a block of wood or the bark of a tree 
 and given a shady, moist situation, with an occa- 
 sional shower of water, they thrive abundantly. To 
 prevent them from requiring too frequent spraying 
 some florist's moss may be fastened on the block 
 under the plant. These plants may also be grown 
 in pots of soil. There are now several horticultural 
 forms, but the two species common are from Aus- 
 tralia, and in their native home they are known as 
 "elkhorn fern," Platycerium alcicorne, and "stag- 
 horn fern," P. grande. 
 
 For a large pot plant Pteris tremula, one of the 
 so-called brake ferns, will give the best satisfaction. 
 In cut-leaved ferns Onychium Japonicum, the Japa-
 
 104 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 nese parsley fern, and Polystichum angulare, var. 
 proliferum, are the most easily grown. 
 
 A fern ball of Davallia bullata needs an annual 
 rest. Gradually dry it off and allow it to remain dor- 
 mant for a time. This should be done once each year 
 at the season when you can best spare it or when 
 you can give it the least attention. When you again 
 start it into life do not let it get dry at any time but 
 keep it soaked by immersion in a pail of water when- 
 ever necessary. When the growth is strong and 
 healthy soak it about once each month in weak 
 manure water. 
 
 PALMS 
 
 The most popular house plants are the kentias, so 
 called, and they will doubtless never be superseded, 
 for they very closely approach the ideal. Next to 
 the aspidistra and rubber plant they will stand more 
 neglect and abuse than any others and far surpass 
 in graceful beauty either of the plants mentioned. 
 There are but two species, K. Belmoreana and K. 
 Fosteriana, both properly Howeas, though Hedescepe 
 Canterburyana is also called a Kentia. 
 
 The owner of house palms should see that they 
 get frequent baths and that the fronds are properly 
 sponged off. The leaves of a plant are its lungs and 
 are full of pores much the same in size and construc- 
 tion as those in the human skin, and if these are 
 allowed to remain clogged with dirt and dust an un- 
 healthy condition must eventually ensue. 
 
 Phoenix Roebelenii, the dwarf phoenix, a new 
 and beautiful species introduced a few years ago, 
 has taken a leading position in the none too long 
 list of palms suitable for interior decoration. It is 
 an extremely slow grower, much the same shape 
 as other phoenix, but miniature in size. This species
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 105 
 
 appears to be as tough and durable as any of the 
 more common ones so familiar to us, yet at maturity 
 reaches a total height of but six feet, and this only 
 after a great many years. 
 
 A GENERAL LIST 
 
 Many people include among the ferns the several 
 species of asparagus, and one of them, Asparagus 
 plumosus, known as the asparagus fern, requires 
 similar treatment. A. scandens deflexus, a rare and 
 but little known species, is the most beautiful of all. 
 It is of compact trailing habit like Asparagus Spren- 
 geri, but with very fine, dense, pale green foliage. 
 Asparagus Sprengeri, the most enduring of all, is a 
 gross feeder and is perennially thirsty. It may be 
 grown either in pots or hanging baskets, and will 
 stand either full sun or partial shade. 
 
 The aralias, with the exception of A. papyrifera, 
 are adapted for house or conservatory culture. They 
 are very pretty decorative plants and do remarkably 
 well indoors. A. Sieboldii and A. Sieboldii variegata 
 are very tropical looking small shrubs with very 
 large, deeply lobed glossy palmate leaves, those of 
 the latter broadly marked with creamy white. 
 
 Aucuba Japonica, the gold dust plant, is a very 
 handsome shrub and one of the best of the colored- 
 leaved foliage plants. With large glossy leaves, 
 spotted with golden-yellow, followed by bright scar- 
 let berries in the fall, it is a fine decorative house 
 plant and well adapted to pot or tub culture. 
 
 For hardiness, beauty and general utility as a 
 decorative specimen Aspidistra lurida may well be 
 regarded as one of the best. It will thrive for 
 months in a room where little light reaches it and 
 does equally well as a shady porch plant or in a gar- 
 den fernery.
 
 106 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 BEGONIAS 
 
 Begonias are divided into three general classes, 
 the fibrous-rooted, the rex begonia, grown for its 
 foliage, and the tuberous-rooted. There are scores 
 of varieties and all thrive in the house under pot cul- 
 ture. 
 
 Begonia manicata aurea has large, beautifully 
 mottled leaves of yellow and green and fine pink 
 flowers. It will endure the dry heat of the ordinary 
 living room as well as any plant' we have and will 
 stand an unusual amount of neglect and ill usage. 
 Those who have grown it as a house plant prefer it 
 to other begonias. 
 
 Plant begonias in a very loose soil. There is noth- 
 ing better than pure leaf mold or rotted sod with the 
 addition of coarse sand. If this is not easily ob- 
 tained add a portion of chopped sphagnum moss to 
 any rich garden soil with a little coarse soil. If 
 fertilizer be used, let it be old and thoroughly rot- 
 ted, like rich black earth, and easily crumbled. Be- 
 gonias are comparatively free from insect pests but 
 sometimes become infested with scale. 
 
 Farfugium grande is a fine ornamental, shade-lov- 
 ing plant with large roundish leaves, dark green, with 
 yellow blotches or "polka-dots." It makes a fine plant 
 for porch decoration when grown in tubs, or may 
 be treated as an open ground plant in shady places. 
 
 Ficus elastica is commonly referred to as the rub- 
 ber plant and is a splendid plant of highly decorative 
 nature. The leaves are long, broad, and a deep shin- 
 ing green. Small specimens are unsurpassed as 
 choice table or parlor plants, standing much neg- 
 lect and rough usage. 
 
 Monstera deliciosa is one of the handsomest of 
 tropical foliage plants, with dark green leaves,
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 107 
 
 deeply lobed and notched at the edges and curiously 
 punctured with round and oval holes. The leaves 
 attain a width of two feet by three and a half in 
 length. The plant is of climbing habit and sends 
 out long aerial roots along the stem; these soon 
 reach the ground, take root in the soil and furnish 
 the plant with needed moisture. There is nothing 
 more decorative for house culture. It also does well 
 against a wall in any position where there is plenty 
 of shade, but will not endure freezing temperatures. 
 
 The idea, once so prevalent, about orchids being 
 difficult subjects to grow and flower, is now tolerably 
 well exploded. Some species certainly need lots of 
 fussing over, but many kinds will succeed well in 
 any ordinary greenhouse, and we have seen on more 
 than one occasion nicely flowered specimens grown 
 in dwelling houses. Such sorts as Dendrobium no- 
 bile, Cypripedium insigne and other terrestrials, Ly- 
 caste Skinneri, and Coelogyne cristata will flower 
 satisfactorily in an ordinary shady bay window if a 
 little judgment is used in watering and other essen- 
 tial details. 
 
 Pandanus, Vietchii, a dracena-like plant, having 
 leaves marked longitudinally with creamy white 
 bands, in a young state is very effective as a decora- 
 tive plant. Some people object to P. Veitchii on 
 account of its fancied resemblance to the ribbon 
 grasses ; others have the idea that it won't stand well 
 as a house plant, that it is harmed by being kept out 
 of a high temperature, which is not the case. It will 
 thrive equally as well as "Ficus elastica, provided 
 root conditions are favorable that is, good drainage 
 and porous soil. It will not permanently stand a low 
 temperature, however, and requires a warm, sunny 
 room for best development.
 
 108 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 KEEP PLANTS CLEAN 
 
 Keep your plants free from dust and vermin at 
 all times. Dust closes the pores and thereby stops 
 circulation in plants as surely as it does in the hu- 
 man body. Half a dozen scale insects, if neglected 
 today, mean several times the number in a few 
 weeks, though such a caution in this volume is hardly 
 necessary, for nearly everyone owning plants is 
 painfully aware of the rapid increase of all scales. 
 If plants have light from but one or two sides, turn 
 them around every few days to keep them sym- 
 metrical. Keep the surface of the soil pulverized 
 and loose, so that it can get water and air readily. 
 If the soil is moldy on top or shows on the outside 
 of the pot, the drainage is at fault. 
 
 CARE OF CUT FLOWERS 
 
 Cut flowers when properly treated can be kept 
 fresh for two to three weeks. Every night take them 
 out of the water and thoroughly rinse the stalks, 
 removing decomposed matter. Put them into a basin 
 of strong soapsuds, but do not allow any water to 
 touch the flowers. In the morning rinse the stalks 
 in the water again, and, as each blossom is arranged 
 in a vase of fresh water, cut off a small portion of 
 the stem, for each day the pores are closed by con- 
 gealing sap and a fresh cut allows water free access 
 to the stem.
 
 GERMAN IRIS, LORELEI
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 BULBS AND TUBERS 
 
 Bulbous plants are among the most beautiful orna- 
 ments of gardens and when well selected some kinds 
 may be seen in bloom every day in the year. It is 
 important to plant nearly all imported bulbs, espe- 
 cially narcissi and lilies, as soon as they can be ob- 
 tained, generally in September. Iris and gladioli can 
 be planted at different times, even as late as June, 
 to secure a succession of blooms. No fertilizers ex- 
 cept bone meal need be used, ammonia in any form 
 being injurious to them. 
 
 To get good effects and pleasing groups with this 
 class of plants one ought to be well acquainted with 
 their habits, likes and dislikes, and success can be 
 attained only by selecting types that will succeed in 
 the different places where they can be planted. When 
 making plantations the main object should be to get 
 as natural an effect as possible. Care should be 
 taken not to plant the bulbs in straight lines, curves 
 or circles. Most of the common bulbs are so cheap 
 they should be planted in large masses, the aim be- 
 ing to obtain color in such quantity as to prove effec- 
 tive when seen from a distance. 
 
 Bulbous plants store up plant food which enables 
 them to pass a season in a dormant state in the arid 
 regions of the world or else pass a season of rest 
 buried in the ground where the winters are long and 
 severe. The majority of bulbous plants have their 
 origin in South Africa, Japan and America. We 
 grow more from South Africa, known as "Cape
 
 110 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 bulbs," than from any other one place. We also have 
 a considerable number of natives that are worthy of 
 a place in any garden, especially in those of all loyal 
 Californians. 
 
 In arranging our bulbous border it will be very 
 satisfactory to arrange them by themselves, select- 
 ing varieties which give a continuity of bloom 
 throughout the year. A well selected collection of 
 bulbous plants will give us a great deal of satisfac- 
 tion, and though the original cost is greater than 
 that of seeds, when we take into consideration the 
 increase in number and value each year, it will read- 
 ily be seen that the cost is more apparent than real. 
 It is far better to select a considerable number of one 
 species which are known to do well than to select a 
 single specimen of a large number of sorts. 
 
 WHAT To GROW 
 
 Agapanthus umbellatus from South Africa with 
 large umbels of blue flowers is most desirable and 
 flowers during summer. Good companions to the 
 agapanthus are the tritomas, or kniphofias, known 
 as the red-hot pokers ; a mass of these brilliant torch- 
 like blooms is very striking, and they are good, per- 
 sistent bloomers. Of late years we have had some 
 fine horticultural varieties of red-hot pokers sent to 
 us from Europe. 
 
 The amaryllis and hippeastrums should be used 
 in considerable quantity as they do remarkably well 
 with us. The varieties of Amaryllis belladonna, both 
 major and minor, Hippeastrum vittata with its hy- 
 brids, and the nearly allied Sprekelia formosissima, 
 do well. In planting them barely cover the bulbs 
 with soil and do not disturb. 
 
 Everyone having a shady corner in the garden, 
 with a light, well-drained soil, should grow a few
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 111 
 
 cyclamen, "shooting stars," or "Persian violets," as 
 they are variously called. Except for a short season 
 during the heated spell they bloom more continu- 
 ously than other bulbous plants. 
 
 The freesia is a good dwarf bulb doing well in 
 clumps or borders. It is a good plan to dig them 
 after they have ripened, six weeks or two months 
 after last rain, and plant out again in September or 
 October. Care should be taken to see that you get 
 pure whites rather than the gray, washy whites. 
 
 A most interesting and satisfactory group of 
 plants are the day lilies, hemerocallis, and splendidly 
 do they thrive in California; indeed no garden of 
 any pretentions is complete without them. Few 
 plants we grow have such a long blooming season, 
 and none in the family are more easily grown. It 
 is regrettable that the range of color is not greater, 
 running from a pale yellow to a deep bronze-orange. 
 
 Tritonias, or montbretias, are good summer flow- 
 ering bulbs and very effective when arranged in 
 clumps of six or eight bulbs a few inches apart or 
 planted in large masses. When they get too thick, 
 which is generally about every third year, the bulbs 
 should be thinned out, as they do not flower so well 
 when crowded. They come in all shades from pale 
 yellow to crimson. 
 
 Every year adds to the list many devotees of the 
 tuberous begonia. This section of begonias should 
 really be called the flowering begonias for the reasoi? 
 that the flowers surpass in size any other section of 
 the family. They come in every color and shade 
 except the blues and are in many forms, single, 
 semi-double and double. 
 
 The canna is another very satisfactory plant and 
 with good cultivation and thinning out it can be 
 left in the ground. Clumps should be divided and
 
 112 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 reset occasionally as they deteriorate when too much 
 crowded. No class of plants in late years has been 
 so much improved as has the canna. 
 
 One of the most effective plants that go to make 
 up the tropical garden is the crinum, often dubbed 
 "spider lily" because in many species the petals are 
 long and slender, giving the flower a slight resem- 
 blance to a huge spider. Not all, however, have 
 these attenuated blossoms; some species have 
 flowers of a shape similar to those of the amaryllis 
 or belladonna lily. 
 
 The oxalis, found in several colors, makes a fine 
 carpet and winter blooming plant which is exceed- 
 ingly easy to grow. In fact, it prefers neglect. 
 Oxalis varies greatly, both in foliage and color of 
 flower, and is not sufficiently appreciated in Cali- 
 fornia. 
 
 The aroids, or order Aroideae, is represented here 
 by callas, elephant's ears, Jack-in-the-pulpit, mon- 
 steras, philodendrons and many other plants both 
 tropical and hardy. The callas comprise several 
 genera and are generally known as white, yellow, 
 pink, green, black, or spotted callas. They are in 
 botany, richardias, arums, dracunculus, amorpho- 
 phallus, sauratum, etc. One who has a full collec- 
 tion of aroids has a group of plants nearly as curi- 
 ous as the tribe of cactus. 
 
 Our native California bulbs should not be over- 
 looked ; we have many species of fine lilies, Mariposa, 
 or butterfly lilies, brodiaeas, or wild hyacinths. 
 
 DAHLIAS AND THEIR CULTURE 
 
 Few cultivated plants have such a wide range of 
 colors as the dahlia. It is one of the old-fashioned, 
 practical flowers that has been improved much of 
 late years. Those who have seen only the round,
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 113 
 
 stiff blooms of the old form will hardly recognize it 
 in the unique, artistic and showy blooms of the 
 "cactus" and decorative types. They are both sin- 
 gle and double and in all shades. The old stiff forms 
 have given way to loose, fantastic shapes. New ir- 
 regular and esthetic varieties now originated and 
 being introduced have redeemed the dahlia and 
 made it one of the most popular garden flowers. 
 Every conceivable color and shade of color from 
 pure white to almost black is now represented. 
 
 Not all dahlias require like treatment, and in 
 some situations and soils a few will be found to 
 behave rather indifferently. It is best to grow a 
 wide range for the first two years and at the end 
 of that time discard those that do not produce abun- 
 dantly and satisfactorily. It is well to make two 
 or three plantings of dahlias if you succeed in hold- 
 ing the roots dormant until quite late in the spring. 
 Often the season has much to do with excellence 
 of blossom, and if you have planted all at once, the 
 whole lot may turn out poorly. Dahlias are gross 
 feeders and should be well supplied with food and 
 drink, more especially from the time the buds show. 
 From this time until blooming season is over they 
 must never suffer for water. Planted in March 
 they will bloom profusely and continuously from 
 June till November. Any kind of soil suits them 
 provided it is moist and rich. Plant the roots about 
 six inches deep. When the shoots appear break off 
 all but the strongest one. When this has grown four 
 or five inches high pinch out the top or end it will 
 soon branch out after which fill in around the plant 
 with well-rotted manure. Treated in this way they 
 will grow strong and sturdy and resist high winds. 
 If you wish the finest flowers disbud freely, pinching 
 out all the buds except one on each stem. The im-
 
 114 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 provement in size and beauty of the blossoms more 
 than repays the extra trouble. If you wish ordinary 
 dahlias only, water and feed freely and let them 
 grow as they will, staking and tying them if they 
 are in danger of breaking down. 
 
 HlPPEASTRUMS 
 
 These gorgeous flowers, usually called amaryllis, 
 are unsurpassed among bulbous plants either for 
 size or richness of color. California hybridizers 
 have produced the finest in the world and have 
 received the congratulations and plaudits of the 
 leading growers both at home and in foreign lands. 
 
 The flowers range in color from a pure white 
 ground color with light or heavy markings of blush, 
 rose, pink and red, to striped and mottled combina- 
 tions of white with red, scarlet, crimson and ma- 
 roon; also in the latter colors in "selfs" or but a 
 single color in each flower. The newer sorts have 
 no tinge of green either in the throat or on the re- 
 verse side and all are overlaid with a satiny sheen or 
 luster that grows brighter as the colors deepen. 
 
 The shape of the flower is a spreading, blunt- 
 pointed star, with overlapping petals, in some cases 
 revolute, or rolling backward at the tips, vastly su- 
 perior to the old type. The flowers are also of 
 enormous size, occasionally attaining ten inches in 
 diameter, with a half-dozen blossoms on one giant 
 stem three feet in height. They are of the easiest 
 possible culture and thrive in any rich soil in a 
 sunny exposure or are splendid subjects for pot 
 culture, vigor and number of blooms increasing with 
 age. 
 
 For these bulbs the soil should be enriched with 
 a liberal quantity of decomposed manure most thor- 
 oughly mixed with the soil by spading, respading
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 115 
 
 and raking until the surface is well pulverized. 
 Such work will repay for time and trouble in blos- 
 soms of superior size and color. Plant in a sunny 
 position, so that the top of the bulb just shows 
 through the soil. When growth begins irrigate 
 heavily and frequently and keep the soil moist at 
 all times until the flowers have been cut or have 
 died. When the buds appear the color of the flowers 
 may be maintained in richest hues by a slight shad- 
 ing from the sun. Cheesecloth or even thin burlap, 
 if not too close to the flowers, will insure sufficient 
 protection and brilliant colors. In California the 
 better practice is to leave the bulbs three years 
 undisturbed, after which they may be divided and 
 replanted, giving one an ever-increasing stock of 
 the most showy garden flowers grown. 
 
 LILIES 
 
 Among flowering bulbs the lily has no rival, and 
 it is a question if its beauty is surpassed by any 
 family of flowers. A majority of our best garden 
 sorts come from western Asia, China and Burma, 
 while Japan and other islands furnish a great many. 
 There are about 2000 species known and about one- 
 half of them have been in cultivation. All seem to 
 be natives of the north temperate zone. South Af- 
 rica, which might aptly be called "the land of bulbs," 
 contains no members of the genus lilium. 
 
 Lilies always look best when massed or planted 
 in clumps and are quite in their natural position 
 if planted along a shrub border with a background 
 of other vegetation. Plant in a deeply-worked soil, 
 and if this is heavy it would be better to lighten it 
 with sand and well-rotted manure. While lilies need 
 plenty of water the drainage should be good. The 
 bulbs should be five inches below the ground line. 
 Avoid fresh manures.
 
 116 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 A variety of soils is necessary to success if a large 
 general collection is to be cultivated, though a light 
 soil is better than heavy for the sorts most commonly 
 grown, even if it contains some gravel. No general 
 culture can be given to fit all kinds, but the directions 
 for care which we give will strike a good average 
 treatment. 
 
 It is a good plan to put a handful of fine sharp 
 sand under all bulbs planted in the fall, for it les- 
 sens the chances of decay and allows the roots a 
 better start. In the case of lily bulbs it is also a 
 good plan to drop some sand on top of the bulb; it 
 is much better to fill the interstices between the 
 scales with sand than to have them full of soil con- 
 taining decaying vegetable matter. 
 
 Lilium superbum will thrive in a very heavy soil ; 
 L. tigrinum will do in any, while the following are 
 adapted to light soils: auratum, chalcedonicum, 
 candidum, longiflorum and the varieties of specio- 
 sum. Among the best sorts to grow are : auratum, 
 the gold-banded lily of Japan, white with bands of 
 yellow and spots of purple ; candidum, the Madonna 
 lily from southern Europe ; longiflorum variety exim- 
 ium; Lilium Harrisii, the Bermuda or Easter lily, 
 from China and Japan; speciosum variety rubrum 
 from Japan; tigrinum from China and Japan, the 
 tiger lily of old-fashioned gardens, though the vari- 
 ety splendens of the tiger lily is far better than the 
 old type, having large, nodding, bright red flowers 
 freely spotted with large purplish spots ; superbum, 
 the American Turk's cap, which grows wild in the 
 eastern half of this country; and many of our na- 
 tives are well worthy of cultivation. The most pop- 
 ular Californian lily in the eastern states is L. 
 Washingtonianum, and the one common throughout
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 117 
 
 the state, Lilium Humboldtii, would prove a valuable 
 addition to any collection. 
 
 GLADIOLI 
 
 None of the old garden favorites have stood the 
 test of time better or have kept up to a more satis- 
 factory standard than the gladioli, and today they 
 are more popular than at the time of their introduc- 
 tion. In all parts of the earth specialists are striv- 
 ing for new colors, forms, habits, etc., but in the 
 meantime the good old garden strains have not been 
 forgotten, and we have today a really gorgeous col- 
 lection of color easily within the reach of all. 
 
 Gladioli are not particular as to soil, thriving 
 fairly well in any, and they are just as cosmopolitan 
 regarding climate. In general they seem to thrive 
 best in light, friable, sandy loam, though in such a 
 soil frequent cultivation and irrigation will insure 
 success. The incorporation of well-rotted stable 
 manure and wood ashes will go far toward making 
 a strong growth with flowers of good size and tex- 
 ture. The application of a fertilizer strong in nitro- 
 gen caused the author's gladioli to run up to six 
 feet in height, making staking necessary, and pro- 
 duced a succulent growth quite lacking in firmness. 
 A lot planted two weeks later, with vegetable ashes 
 only applied, produced a fine dark green growth, 
 very sturdy in habit and less than half as tall as 
 the first lot. Plant your bulbs early as possible for 
 the main crop January is best and for later plant- 
 ings choose each time those farthest started into 
 new growth, though best results are obtained by 
 planting a month before the shoots will start. Put 
 bulbs at least four inches deep in soil. Copious 
 waterings at regular intervals are necessary. 
 
 Everybody loves to have plants that originated,
 
 118 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 after a fashion, in their own garden, and also to 
 have those unlike any to be found elsewhere. Here 
 is where the charm of crossing comes in. Get the 
 best bulbs you can buy ; no use fooling with inferior 
 parents if you desire high-grade offspring. Pull up 
 and throw away any coming into flower that are 
 off in color, size, form or vigor. Plant breeding 
 answers to the same rules as animal breeding, so 
 pick none but the best parents. When you have 
 spikes coming into bloom and wish to cross, you 
 had best proceed in the following manner: Take 
 off, simply by picking with the fingers, the three 
 stamens every blossom has, being sure that no part 
 of them remains on the slender stem on which they 
 hang. This emasculation should be rigidly followed 
 out as early as possible every morning. The sta- 
 mens of your choicest should be saved, as they con- 
 tain the all-necessary pollen ; the remainder may be 
 thrown away. 
 
 Every stamen has two long, narrow pollen sacs 
 which may easily be found by examination. Take 
 a little of the pollen on the end of a toothpick and 
 put in the "throat" and "troughs" of the three- 
 pronged pistil, using enough to completely choke the 
 mouth of the small tube which runs down to the 
 ovaries at base of blossom. We who are looking for 
 scientific determinations only fertilize our blossoms 
 somewhat differently; the author pollenizes each 
 floret three mornings in succession and covers each 
 spike with a paper sack, tying it about the stem to 
 prevent insects entering the blossom. Commercial 
 growers do not take these precautions except in 
 case of a few "pets," and it is not strictly necessary, 
 for a pistil well choked with pollen is not very liable 
 to contamination by other pollen. Small sacks or 
 boxes should be provided for the seeds on which is
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 119 
 
 written the cross, the seed-bearing parent, the plant 
 the pod is taken from, always appearing first, as: 
 "America x Aphrodite" if pods are from the first- 
 named or "Aphrodite x America" if the former 
 was fertilized by pollen from America. In case 
 named sorts are not used they may' be numbered 
 thus: 46xAmerica or 22x46. It is better to pick 
 seed pods from each stem as they ripen, and this 
 just before they begin to split open. Six pods are 
 enough for any stem to mature. In our climate we 
 may sow these seeds at almost any time, though the 
 spring and early summer is preferable. 
 
 THE IRIS 
 
 This flower was named from Iris, a radiant god- 
 dess arrayed in garments of surpassing splendor, a 
 personification of the rainbow which is a concen- 
 tration of all tints, rays and coloring of, beauty. 
 The German iris, sometimes called the poor man's 
 orchid, for the reason that it is so easily cultivated, 
 is especially desirable for many locations and is 
 very happy in low, wet ground, but will bloom freely 
 in the common border. The varieties are almost 
 numberless, and the grace and coloring of flowers 
 exquisitely beautiful. 
 
 Nearly 200 species of the iris family are known 
 to botanists, and many of these are not yet known 
 to commerce. This accounts for frequent announce- 
 ments by dealers of "an entirely new iris." We 
 have a considerable number of splendid types, and 
 were the iris alone taken out of our gardens it 
 would be sorely missed. The fact is that it is not 
 nearly so much grown as it should be, for there is 
 no member of the family but is desirable for even 
 the best of gardens. Of late years so many new 
 species have been introduced and such a great num-
 
 120 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 ber of hybrids and crosses obtained by the plant 
 breeder that today a large and varied collection of 
 iris will rival in beauty and interest that of any 
 family in the plant kingdom. In German iris al- 
 most every color but a pure, deep yellow may be 
 obtained in the local market. We have iris known 
 as English, German, Spanish, Japanese, alpine, and 
 numbers of others with less comprehensive geo- 
 graphical names, yet not less beautiful or desirable. 
 All are happily very cosmopolitan in their require- 
 ments, so that no one need fear failure in their 
 culture. 
 
 Moraea iridioides is the name of a beautiful flower 
 of the iris family, close to the true irises, from 
 which it differs but in floral organs. The ground 
 color is pure white, and the narrow petals have a 
 midrib of deep yellow, while the broader set are 
 delicately etched through the middle with chocolate 
 brown. Unlike the true irises this plant blooms at 
 any season. 
 
 DUTCH OR HOLLAND BULBS 
 
 The principal Dutch bulbs grown in California 
 are hyacinths, narcissi, and tulips. This class is 
 called Dutch bulbs, not because they are natives of 
 Holland, but because nearly all these bulbs are prop- 
 agated and grown in Holland. Both the climate 
 and soil in Holland appear to be remarkably favor- 
 able to the growth of this class of bulbs. The soil 
 where they are grown is sandy, with water a short 
 distance below the surface, so that the plants are 
 practically secure from drouth. Shipments of bulbs 
 are made in autumn from Holland to all parts of 
 the world. We usually receive them about October, 
 and they are ready to be started for blooming as 
 soon as received. The planting should not be long 
 delayed, that is, it must be done during the fall
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 121 
 
 months. Many people see flowers of bulbous plants 
 in the spring and send to dealers to purchase the 
 bulbs, only to be disappointed, not understanding 
 that they must be planted in the fall. 
 
 The soil for bulbs should be in good condition, 
 enriched with well-rotted stable manure, or, in ab- 
 sence of that, with some good commercial fertilizer. 
 The bulbs will bloom even in poor soil, and hya- 
 cinths and narcissus are frequently bloomed in 
 water, but in good soil there is better growth of 
 foliage, and this is favorable to finer flowers. 
 
 Pot single bulbs of hyacinth in four-inch pots, or 
 three or four in a six-inch pot. Set the bulb so that 
 when the soil is filled in the top will be just at the 
 surface. Pot the narcissi in the same manner. 
 After the bulbs are potted, water and set away in 
 a cool, dark place for some weeks, where they will 
 make roots, before bringing them into the light and 
 warmth where they will rapidly develop blooming 
 spikes. Potted bulbs that have been set away in 
 the dark should be looked over every few days, and 
 any pots that need it watered, as the soil should not 
 be allowed to get quite dry. When the plants are 
 brought to the light and begin to grow vigorously 
 they may be watered freely. 
 
 For growing in water they are usually put in a 
 shallow bowl and kept in place with pebbles packed 
 about them. A six-inch glass dish or bowl will 
 easily hold three bulbs. It is better to keep the base 
 of the bulb just above the surface rather than in it, 
 as in the latter case the bulbs will sometimes decay. 
 Narcissi are greedy for water, and this is one rea- 
 son this method is adopted, though more easily 
 grown in soil if abundance of water is supplied. 
 FERTILIZER FOR BULBS 
 
 It is usually conceded that of all special fertilizers
 
 122 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 those found best for potatoes will do best for a 
 general mixed stock of what is usually termed 
 "bulbs." One carrying four per cent of nitrogen, 
 eight per cent of phosphoric acid and ten per cent 
 of potash is made as follows : nitrate of soda, thirty 
 pounds ; sulphate of ammonia, twenty pounds ; tank- 
 age, 100 pounds; acid phosphate, 250 pounds; muri- 
 ate of potash, 100 pounds; making a total of 500 
 pounds. Small gardens may easily use this formula 
 by cutting off one cypher from each figure and re- 
 ducing the total weight to fifty pounds. Use little 
 but often.
 
 THE CHINESE ROSE, WHITE BANKSIA 
 Rosa Banksiae var, alba-plena
 
 CHAPTER X 
 THE ROSE GARDEN 
 
 The rose is the most universally beloved of flowers 
 and for all time has been the chief floral embellish- 
 ment in the gardens of both castle and cottage, shed- 
 ding its delightful fragrance impartially over prince 
 and pauper and commanding the admiration of 
 every enlightened people. It is found in a wild 
 state in all parts of the earth, and cultivated varie- 
 ties are given an equally wide dissemination. 
 
 TYPES OF ROSES 
 
 The mosses are not much grown in California, 
 and in the southern end of the state are seldom 
 seen, being chiefly noted for their scarcity of flowers. 
 The varieties are usually known by their names 
 specifying the type, as : Pink Moss, Glory of Mosses, 
 etc. 
 
 The noisettes are better known to us, though only 
 in climbing sorts. They are abundant bloomers, 
 bearing flowers in clusters. The better-known sorts 
 are : Cloth of Gold, Lamarque, Madam Alfred Car- 
 riere, Marechal Niel, and Reve d'Or. 
 
 The Bourbons and Bengals are not universally 
 popular. The former is extremely variable in type, 
 generally bearing light-colored flowers, while the 
 latter, often called Chinas, are small, compact grow- 
 ers, bearing myriads of fragrant crimson flowers, 
 and make good hedge plants. Examples are : Agrip- 
 pina, Grus an Teplitz, Souvenir de Malmaison 
 (pink Bourbon) , and James Sprunt, a good climbing 
 sort.
 
 124 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 The polyanthas or "buttonhole" roses are small, 
 very free bloomers, bearing flowers of most exqui- 
 site form. The ones best known are Cecile Brunner 
 and its climbing variety, Baby Rambler, Crimson 
 Rambler, and Yellow Rambler. 
 
 The teas are an old-time, free-blooming, "cranky" 
 type, their luxuriance of flowers, delicate tints, and 
 fine forms making them very popular. They grow 
 less vigorously than the hybrid teas, but many of 
 them will thrive in soils too light and sandy for 
 hybrid perpetuals. Some of the better-known and 
 time-proven are : Bride, Bridesmaid, Dean Hole, 
 Duchesse de Brabant, General McArthur, Laurette, 
 Papa Gontier, Peace, Reine Marie Henriette, and 
 Maman Cochet. 
 
 The hybrid teas are much stronger in growth than 
 the teas, occupying in this respect a position mid- 
 way 'twixt the teas and the hybrid perpetuals, hav- 
 ing the free-flowering habit of the former, combined 
 with the rich colors and general vigor of the latter. 
 Among them are: Caroline Testout, Kaiserin Au- 
 gusta Victoria, Killarney, La France, the first of 
 this type, 1867, and Madam Abel Chatenay. 
 
 Hybrid perpetuals or remontants are easily dis- 
 tinguished by luxuriance of foliage, vigor of growth 
 and large size of flowers. They are not so exacting 
 as other types, thriving with less care, yet equally 
 responsive to good treatment. Their range in color 
 is great, comprising all the shades and tints found 
 in the other classes. They also need more summer 
 rest and may be more heavily pruned. They are 
 the best for those who can bestow but little care 
 on their gardens. Some of the more common are: 
 American Beauty, Frau Karl Druschki, Magna 
 Charta, Paul Neyron and Ulrich Brunner. We have 
 a few of other types, such as briar, prairie, rugosa,
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 125 
 
 wichuriana, but they are little known and less 
 grown. 
 
 SOILS FOR ROSES 
 
 The hybrid teas or the hybrid perpetuals thrive 
 best in heavy soils, the Bourbon class do well in any, 
 but the teas and noisettes seem to produce best if 
 the soil is light or somewhat sandy. It is essential 
 in all cases that drainage be good, and for this rea- 
 son some rosarians of experience remove all soil 
 from the beds to the depth of two feet, pick up the 
 bottom of the pit as deeply as possible, scatter a 
 little manure and sand over the surface and replace 
 the soil, mixing it as it goes back with sand and 
 thoroughly rotted stable manure, being careful to 
 make a good job of the mixing process. A_great 
 deal of such work is done in England, some in the 
 eastern part of our country, and but little" by our 
 impatient Californians. 
 
 In light soils there is little doubt but own-root 
 roses give best satisfaction over a long term of 
 years, the necessity for budding keeping pace with 
 the increasing heaviness, but, when one reaches 
 adobe or clay, it is better either to give up pure teas 
 and plant hybrids only, or convert the soil for these 
 into one of much lighter texture. It therefore must 
 be apparent that if you grow many roses it will be 
 found better to keep the classes separated. When 
 purchasing mixed sorts of roses for heavy soils it 
 is doubtless better to get them budded, for few 
 have enough in number to sharply discriminate be- 
 tween the classes as to their specific needs. It is 
 well to reiterate that all roses do best in soils that 
 have been deeply stirred and well worked over. 
 SUMMER TREATMENT 
 
 In California roses need the same amount of rest 
 that nature gives them where winter's cold renders
 
 126 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 all plant life dormant for several months each year. 
 We seldom get good roses in summer for the reason 
 that the atmosphere is too hot and too dry, and after 
 the heavy flower crop of winter and spring the 
 plants need a period of rest in which to recuperate 
 their vitality. 
 
 In the warmer parts of the state one may have 
 autumn and holiday roses if water is not given at 
 all from the last day of June to not later than the 
 first day of October, preferably pruning and water- 
 ing for the first time during the closing days of 
 September. If autumn roses are preferred it mat- 
 ters not if leaves turn yellow or fall and bark on 
 the smaller and younger growth becomes shriveled; 
 the plants are not necessarily distressed by such 
 treatment, for the growth manifesting such change 
 must all be cut away in any event. If rest is the 
 only end in view, the plants need not for so long be 
 deprived of water, or rest may be begun later, or a 
 little water be given every month. In this case 
 pruning is delayed until winter. 
 
 All this presupposes that the rose beds are where 
 they may be kept under proper control. If the 
 plants are in the lawn, either singly or in beds, good 
 roses in large numbers will not result. Why anyone 
 will consider rose plants for fundamental landscape 
 embellishment is very hard to understand, for rose 
 bushes severely pruned and soil in constant cultiva- 
 tion or heavily mulched do not add to the finish 
 of the landscape. There are other and more fitting 
 places for growing rose bushes than may be found 
 in any lawn. After being driven through a couple 
 of years by almost daily watering of the surround- 
 ing grass, and allowed no periods of rest, that rose 
 plant is indeed hardy that will still return a boun- 
 tiful crop of flowers. If you need shrubs for the
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 127 
 
 lawn the markets contain a goodly variety of suit- 
 able material, coming as many of them do from 
 lands where ordinary lawn conditions largely 
 prevail. 
 
 WINTER TREATMENT 
 
 In the last section the reader was told that if he 
 lived in a practically frostless locality he might 
 have early winter or holiday roses, and how best to 
 get them. It was also stated that if conditions were 
 less favorable severe pruning should be left until 
 winter. The latter treatment will be found better 
 for California in general. 
 
 In the colder sections, where very sharp frosts 
 prevail for a time, roses may be pruned in Decem- 
 ber, for low temperatures stagnate the flow of sap 
 and ripen the wood so that early pruning is admis- 
 sible, but as dormancy under such conditions is pro- 
 longed there is no necessity for pruning until early 
 in the new year. 
 
 In the warmer sections, as in the southern third 
 of the state, the bay region about San Francisco 
 and Oakland, and in various circumscribed citrus 
 belts, the pruning process is better left until Janu- 
 ary. You will then get a crop of fine blossoms from 
 early spring until the middle of summer, for roses 
 so treated will begin blooming in February or 
 March, according to the weather, and continue till 
 July unless spells of very hot weather curtail the 
 bloom. 
 
 MILDEW ON ROSES 
 
 The most serious trouble prevalent with roses dur- 
 ing winter, and somewhat at other times, is mildew ; 
 and this may be present from one or several causes. 
 It is sometimes due entirely to unfavorable weather 
 conditions, but in such cases it attacks only sorts
 
 128 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 unsuited to the climate, weakly varieties, or those 
 in a poor state of health. It is usually present as 
 the result of extreme conditions too wet too dry 
 too hot too cold, etc. As an example, many 
 roses, especially the teas, will be attacked by mildew 
 whenever there is a stagnation of water at the roots ; 
 that is, more water than the plant can immediately 
 appropriate or make use of. 
 
 The more common way in which mildew is en- 
 couraged in California is about as follows: Roses 
 are planted in a bed fully exposed to the sun, or, if 
 climbers, are planted on the south side of a build- 
 ing. All day the air is hot and dry. In the evening 
 when "the boss" comes home from work they are 
 watered, which treatment but increases the chilli- 
 ness of the night air, making conditions precisely 
 the reverse from those which obtain throughout the 
 day. These utmost extremes hot and dry by day, 
 cold and wet by night are too great to expect any 
 but the hardiest rose to withstand. 
 
 The proper treatment would tend to equalize 
 rather than accentuate these extremes. Water in 
 the morning, early ; you will then find the surround- 
 ing atmosphere to be somewhat moist all day, but 
 before the chill of night creeps in the plant and the 
 sun and air will have absorbed nearly or quite all 
 of the moisture and the air during the night will in 
 consequence be comparatively warm and dry. This 
 latter treatment, if the surface soil is kept stirred 
 and the drainage is good, will in a majority of cases 
 ward off attacks of mildew which, but for such pre- 
 cautions, might seriously injure the roses. 
 
 PROPAGATION OF ROSES 
 
 There are three methods of propagating or in- 
 creasing the number of roses ; by seeds, by cuttings,
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 129 
 
 and by budding or grafting. To all who are in any 
 wise grounded in knowledge of plants it is evident 
 that growing from seeds is but a harmless pastime 
 and is not indulged in by the amateur with any hope 
 of profit, for out of a thousand seedlings there may 
 not be one of any commercial value. 
 
 Own-root roses, or those grown from cuttings, are 
 in the very strong-growing sorts the most glorious 
 and permanently satisfactory of all. But there are 
 so many fine sorts that are either weakly or very 
 ordinary on their own roots that the amateur who 
 purchases had better procure budded roses, unless 
 he be well posted on the specific needs of the varie- 
 ties he most desires. Grafting in effect is similar 
 to budding. If skillfully done it may be slightly 
 superior, but for reasons not necessary to state it 
 is not so practical for commercial purposes. 
 
 PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS 
 
 From November 1 to January is the proper sea- 
 son for propagating roses from cuttings, for the 
 reason that during the cool weather of the rainy 
 season the cuttings will callous, continue the proc- 
 ess, and root throughout the winter, starting top 
 growth in late winter. Cuttings taken later do not 
 have time to get calloused and rooted before active 
 top growth is induced by warm weather, and the 
 result is comparatively weakly plants. 
 
 Use well-cured wood, full of dormant eyes, from 
 the diameter of a lead pencil up to a half -inch, con- 
 taining three or four eyes or buds which will make 
 them four to six inches in length. Cut the lower 
 end from a quarter-inch below a bud, through the 
 cane on about a forty-five degree angle, using a very 
 sharp knife having a thin blade. Cut the top end 
 a half -inch above a bud; there is no need of super-
 
 130 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 fluous wood at either end. Select clean, straight 
 wood only, from vigorous, healthy plants. 
 
 Insert these cuttings, all but the top inch or so, 
 in a bed of sharp washed river sand of at least 
 four inches depth. Do not force cuttings down into 
 this damp, firm sand or you will bruise the smoothly- 
 cut end. Either make a narrow channel across the 
 bed with an old table knife turned slightly to open 
 sand to width of cutting, or with a piece of lath or 
 wood properly fashioned or a sharpened stick of 
 greater diameter make a hole for each cutting. 
 
 Press the sand firmly about cuttings and wet down 
 well to thoroughly firm the sand, and never after- 
 ward allow it to become dry. If sand is not avail- 
 able, use the lightest and sandiest soil you can get 
 and as free from decaying vegetable matter as pos- 
 sible. A cold frame with a cloth or burlap cover 
 is ideal, as cuttings should at first be kept from 
 sun, and until well started in roots, from strong 
 winds. Later in the season when a vigorous young 
 root system is assured the cuttings may be grad- 
 ually exposed until full sunshine is given them. The 
 average amateur would better use a box in the 
 shade and protection of a building, keeping it at 
 first in the coolest, darkest place available, and well 
 protected, dragging it into light and warmth as the 
 rooting process develops. Dry off box in late fall 
 until roses are semi-dormant and plant out. Spring 
 propagation, practiced by some, is accomplished by 
 same process. 
 
 BUDDING AND GRAFTING 
 
 In budding and grafting the work is usually done 
 in growths of the same diameter and condition as 
 that recommended for cuttings. Grafting is so un- 
 common that the process need not be described. It
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 131
 
 132 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 should be accomplished in the spring. Budding may 
 be done either in spring or fall, or even in summer, if 
 plants are where temperature and general conditions 
 may be controlled. 
 
 When the bud has been cut, very carefully pull out 
 the woody chip inside. Quickly place this in a T- 
 shape (or inverted T) cut, made previously, bark- 
 deep only, in the stock plant to be budded. Raise the 
 bark on one side of the incision with the wedge- 
 shaped end of the budding knife, put in one side of 
 your bud shield and then do likewise for the other 
 side. Bind the stem both above and below the bud 
 with raffia, narrow strips of stout muslin or very 
 soft, coarse twine or candlewick. When the bud 
 shows signs of starting, an average time of about 
 three weeks, loosen the binding and retie. If prop- 
 erly loosened and tied no other restrictive measures 
 need be used and the binding may be taken off when 
 the bud has grown so that the stem of the stock above 
 the bud may be cut off and the full sap supply be 
 allowed to flow into the new bud. 
 
 ROSES FROM SEEDS 
 
 If the rose hips or apples are fresh the pulp will 
 need to be washed from the seeds. The latter may 
 then be sown in a mixture of sand, leaf mold and 
 loam, covering about a half inch. After sowing keep 
 cool and moist. The soil must have good drainage 
 yet not be allowed to dry. As the seedlings come 
 up, pot them off or transplant to other boxes. Do 
 not be impatient if none appear for weeks, and after 
 waiting a reasonable time prepare a new seed bed, 
 put the soil and seeds in a sieve, wash the former 
 through and sow the latter again before they dry 
 and cover with clean sand. Usually a good crop of 
 seedlings will result.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 133 
 
 PRUNING THE ROSES 
 
 It is difficult to lay down hard and fast rules for 
 pruning rose bushes for the reason that each bush 
 presents a distinct and individual problem, and much 
 study and experience are necessary before one is 
 fully competent to prune all classes and kinds of 
 roses intelligently. However, a few general rules 
 may be given. 
 
 First cut the whole top off at not less than two 
 feet high on good strong bushes established for a 
 few years. This allows you to get at all parts of the 
 bush. Cut out small twiggy growth that is of less 
 diameter than a lead pencil. Next remove all canes 
 which grow crosswise, that would tend to chafe up- 
 right canes or interfere with their free development. 
 Do not leave a group of canes congested in the 
 center, but aim to leave center of bushes free and 
 open. Do not prune young roses severely; the first 
 year take out weak, thin growth only. 
 
 The aim should be to leave a strong, healthy 
 framework of large, vigorous canes, few in number 
 and standing well apart, the larger ones left longer 
 than the lesser ones by a few inches, but seldom is it 
 well to leave even the strongest more than two feet 
 high. It matters little if no foliage is left, for none 
 is needed. When finally cutting back the few big 
 canes left (which may number from two to seven) 
 it is better to cut a half inch above an outside eye 
 or bud. This will tend to spread the plant and avoid 
 crowded centers where neither light nor air may 
 enter. 
 
 As a rule climbers need but little pruning, and 
 annual bloomers such as the Banksias, Cherokees, 
 Glazenwood, etc., should be cut back immediately 
 after blooming, if any pruning is necessary, for
 
 134 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 they then make the wood that bears the next season's 
 flowers, and if pruning is too long deferred the next 
 flower crop will be indeed light. 
 
 Those who persist in pruning without protection 
 to the hands or without the heaviest of gloves will 
 receive many painful punctures and lacerations of 
 the skin. Get a few corrosive sublimate tablets from 
 a drug store, dissolve one in a pint of water and 
 bathe the hands therein for several minutes and all 
 pain will cease at once. This is an excellent anti- 
 septic but deadly if taken internally, so be careful 
 of both bath and tablets. 
 
 FERTILIZERS FOR ROSES 
 
 Immediately following pruning, if you have wood 
 ashes, apply a liberal amount and turn them lightly 
 under the soil or give a good deep raking to thor- 
 oughly incorporate them with the surface soil. Good 
 hardwood ashes carry one-fifth lime, besides a con- 
 siderable amount of potash. Coal ashes have no 
 nutritive value. If ashes are not available give a 
 light sprinkling of air-slaked lime and rake in. This 
 application should precede manuring by a month if 
 possible, but is beneficial if foremost by but one day. 
 In small gardens some put ten pounds of lime in a 
 tub, fill it with water, allow lime to settle until water 
 is clear and then apply the latter to the plants. It 
 will not prove too strong for any rose. The settled 
 lime may be scattered elsewhere in the garden. 
 
 There is no question but that thoroughly decayed 
 horse manure is the best garden fertilizer for roses 
 or other plants. Next comes cow manure. In light 
 sandy soils it is of greater physical value than in 
 heavy soils. Fresh sheep manure should be used 
 with caution, as it is strong, and poultry manure is
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 135 
 
 still stronger and must be used sparingly, though 
 one of the best rose stimulants known. 
 
 Commercial fertilizers, when properly used, an- 
 swer every requirement of the rose so far as food 
 is concerned, but do not aid the physical texture of 
 the soil. Pure bone meal, either raw or acidulated, 
 is highly beneficial and may be used heavily without 
 harm to the plants. It is best used with nitrate of 
 soda. Two or three applications of potash through- 
 out the season are better than a single one, and 
 muriate is a good form in which to apply it. 
 
 One expert rose grower sows the following mix- 
 ture at the rate of a pound and a half to every ten 
 feet square (not ten square feet, but ten by ten) : 
 Mix superphosphate of lime, twelve parts; nitrate 
 of potash, ten parts; sulphate of magnesia, two 
 parts ; sulphate of iron, one part ; sulphate of potash, 
 eight parts. The author has never tried this chem- 
 ical recipe. 
 
 Whatever else is fed to the roses, stable manure 
 should be spaded in deeply once a year before 
 growth commences in winter. Then pulverize the 
 surface soil, rake smooth and apply a very heavy 
 mulch of strawy horse manure when active growth 
 commences, and water through this, being sure that 
 each watering is sufficient to wet down below the 
 roots, and apply only as often as required. The 
 heavy mulch will prevent weeds growing, keep the 
 soil cool during the heat of summer, and materially 
 prolong the flowering period. 
 
 THE BEST SORTS 
 
 Owing to the wide diversity of personal taste, and 
 the variations of climate, soils, temperature, etc., 
 throughout the state, it would hardly do to recom- 
 mend any restricted list of roses as the very best
 
 136 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 sorts for any or all to grow. Therefore, the lists 
 herein given consist of one dozen each of the four 
 recognized standards of color ; roses that the author 
 has either grown in his own garden or closely 
 studied in the gardens of others, and believed by 
 him to be the best of those commonly for sale 
 throughout California. They are listed alphabet- 
 ically; no preferences shown. The letters following 
 the names indicate the class to which each belongs, 
 thus : T., tea ; H. T., hybrid tea ; H. P., hybrid per- 
 petual ; B. or C., Bengal or China ; N., noisette ; Poly., 
 polyantha. 
 
 WHITES 
 
 The White La France, properly Augustine Gui- 
 noisseau, is a nearly white hybrid tea, carrying a 
 slight tint of fawn color. The latest first-class white, 
 the finest of all, is Frau Karl Druschki, H. P. Ivory, 
 a tea, is pure white and therein somewhat belies its 
 name, for Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, H. P., is the 
 best ivory-white. Mabel Morrison, H. P., is a fine 
 old rose of snow-white, sometimes faintly tinged 
 with pink. Molly Sharman-Crawford, H. T., is one 
 of the newer roses which proves pure white at all 
 times, and this is likewise true of Niphetos, a tea 
 rose, doing well in shaded positions. Perle von 
 Godesburg, H. T., is creamy white, tinted with yel- 
 low, in all other ways closely resembling the Kais- 
 erin. The Bride, a pure white tea, is of somewhat 
 weakly habit except under ideal conditions, and will 
 thrive in partial shade. The Queen is another pure 
 white tea and more robust than The Bride, as a 
 queen should be. White Killarney, H. T., a pure 
 white sport from Killarney, is equally as good as 
 its distinguished parent. White Maman Cochet, T., 
 is always suffused with pink in the outer petals.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 137 
 
 PINKS 
 
 Belle Siebrecht, H. T., is a long-pointed rosy-pink ; 
 Betty, H. T., is a large, less double, coppery rose, 
 while still another shade, shell-pink, is shown in 
 Clara Watson, also a hybrid tea. Killarney, H. T., 
 is flesh-pink, slightly suffused with shell-pink or 
 silvery-pink. Madam Abel Chatenay, H. T., is called 
 a shell-pink, tinged on the outer petals with salmon ; 
 a splendid robust producer of perfect blossoms ; the 
 author's better half considers it the best rose in her 
 garden of a hundred sorts. Madam Leon Pain is 
 another shell-pink, salmon-tinted, that is a close 
 rival of the last-named. Mile. Cecile Brunner, the 
 famous pink buttonhole rose of the polyantha class, 
 scarcely needs an introduction, and even the small- 
 est garden should contain one. Paul Neyron, H. P., 
 an old-time favorite of deep rose color, is known as 
 our largest rose. Maman Cqchet, a tea, is a very 
 free-flowering, deep rosy-pink^nodding because of a 
 slender stem. Souv. dti President Carnot, H. T., is 
 salmon-pink, shading to rose on the outer petals, a 
 delicate, soft shade of color. The Lyon, H. T., a 
 rosy-flesh, shaded with salmon and yellow, is a won- 
 der in color but thrives better in the bay region of 
 San Francisco than in the drier air of Los Angeles, 
 therefore a superb coast rose in the south. One of 
 the later claimants for popular favor is William 
 Shean, H. T., deep pink in color and one of the larg- 
 est of roses. 
 
 REDS 
 
 One of the old China roses, Agrippina, has re- 
 mained a favorite through a half-century of pub- 
 licity, a rather small flower of deep crimson; while 
 American Beauty relies on its name for a place in 
 southern gardens; in the San Francisco region and
 
 138 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 nortward it grows superbly. Those wishing a tiny 
 crimson rose on a dwarf bush should plant a Baby 
 Rambler, Poly. Edward Mawley, H. T., is a popular 
 velvety crimson, still rare in California gardens. 
 Gen. Jacqueminot, H. P., is an old-time, annual- 
 flowering favorite of bright crimson, but a superior 
 rose in all ways, of a fiery-red is Gen. MacArthur, 
 at present the very best red rose. Hugh Dickson and 
 J. B. Clark are two red hybrid perpetuals that in the 
 south are excellent for mid- winter blooms ; of large 
 size and deep color. J. L. Mock, H. T., a rather late 
 introduction of bright salmony red, has rapidly at- 
 tained a deserved popularity. Lady Battersea, H. 
 T., is without a rival in the shade known as cherry- 
 red. Magna Charta, H. P., is one of the old favor- 
 ites, of one long annual season of bloom, a rose that 
 in its class will doubtless never be surpassed ; a deep, 
 real rosy-red. Papa Gontier, a tea, is a large, not 
 very double rose of large size, superb as a bud of 
 deep crimson, opening as a loose flower of deep rosy- 
 pink. Ulrich Brunner, H. P., is another of the old- 
 fashioned rosy-reds, with a cherry tint, that will 
 ever remain a popular favorite. 
 
 YELLOWS 
 
 The Duchess of Wellington, H. T., though new in 
 the field, is already a prime favorite, for in color it is 
 rare, a saffron yellow, tinted with crimson. Franz 
 Deegen, H. T., is a fine yellow tinted with orange 
 and has been called the Yellow Kaiserin. George C. 
 Waud, H. T., is another new rose of grand color, 
 orange tinged with scarlet. Harry Kirk is still 
 scarce, being recently introduced, but has become a 
 standard yellow, shading to deeper in the center, 
 Lady Hillingdon, a new tea, is very fine, in color an 
 orange-tinted yellow. In the old lists of yellow teas
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 139 
 
 Marie Von Houtte was always given and is still 
 much in demand. Mrs. Aaron Ward, H. T., is a 
 strikingly handsome rose of an orange shade fading 
 to cream at the tips. Mrs. A. R. Waddell, another 
 late hybrid tea, has the most attractive apricot 
 shades of any rose grown. Perle des Jardins is an 
 old favorite tea of bright straw color but is seldom a 
 pronounced success in the southern end of the state. 
 The yellowest rose is a title that has been bestowed 
 upon Rayon d'Or, a comparative newcomer to Cali- 
 fornia but one that has well sustained its reputation 
 for color. Soliel d'Or, a hybrid briar, is a deep gold 
 shaded with pink, marvelous in color and showy in 
 the garden but not a rose for cutting. Sunburst, H. 
 T., is a rather new rose having a combination of 
 orange-yellow tinged with copper, shades now the 
 most popular. 
 
 CLIMBING ROSES 
 WHITES 
 
 Climbing Devoniensis, a creamy white tea rose, 
 tinged with blush, is more popular in the central and 
 northern parts of the state than in the south. Climb- 
 ing Kaiserin Augusta Victoria is but an ambitious 
 sport from the bush rose bearing the same name. 
 Climbing White Cochet is a new rose, tinted pink 
 outside, that has satisfied all who have grown it. 
 Mme. Alfred Carriere is an old-time noisette of 
 creamy white, a fairly good rose everywhere. The 
 White Banksia is nearly thornless, a rampant grower 
 that will stretch away up a tree for sixty feet, bear- 
 ing clusters of tiny, semi-double flowers. All who 
 know roses are familiar with the white Cherokee, 
 without which no garden is complete, its large single 
 blossoms being borne in profusion early in spring.
 
 140 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 PINKS 
 
 Climbing Belle Siebrecht is but a variety of the 
 bush sort aspiring to higher levels; a good rose. 
 Climbing Cecile Brunner's story may be told in the 
 same words, as is also true of Climbing Caroline 
 Testout. Dorothy Perkins is a shell-pink hybrid of 
 the wichuriana class that does not mildew in places 
 where this fungus seriously interferes with other 
 small-flowering sorts, all of which belong to the 
 polyanthas. Gainsborough is a satiny-blush hybrid 
 tea that climbs vigorously and flowers fairly freely 
 with blossoms of good size. The Pink Cherokee, as 
 its name implies, is but a colored sport from the old- 
 time favored white. A fairly good mass bloomer of 
 rather weakly light pink, bearing an abundance of 
 small flowers, is the German Tausenshon, meaning in 
 English, thousand beauties. 
 
 REDS 
 
 A description of Climbing Papa Gontier may be 
 found under the bush Gontier, but Climbing Souv. 
 de Wootton, H. T., is far superior to the bush sort, a 
 free-flowering magenta-crimson. Crimson Rambler, 
 Poly., bears clusters of small flowers and is a general 
 favorite where roses are not attacked by mildew. 
 Francois Crousse, H. T., is the deepest in color of all 
 red climbers and a most excellent sort. In the Red 
 Cherokee, or Ramona, we have the jewel of the 
 group. Reine Marie Henriette, H. T., is that deep 
 rose climbing sort seen over all of California ; a gen- 
 eral favorite. Reine Olga de Wurtemburg is a half- 
 double hybrid tea that has been happily described as 
 the climbing Ragged Robin.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 141 
 
 YELLOWS 
 
 The Beauty of Glazenwood, sometimes called Gold 
 of Ophir, or Fortune's Double Yellow, is an annual 
 bloomer that is a marvel of color, and we will ven- 
 ture to describe the shades as yellow, copper and 
 rose. Celine Forestier is a light yellow noisette with 
 real yellow in the central petals. Duchess de Auer- 
 stadt is the yellowest of climbers, a tea rose of great 
 beauty popular forty years ago and still in strong 
 demand. As for Marechal Niel, the old favorite 
 lemon-yellow of strong tea-like fragrance, who does 
 not know it and love it? It grows but indifferently 
 in dry atmospheres, but an occasional plant does 
 well in all parts of the state. Reve d'Or (French for 
 dream of gold), like the last, is a noisette, rather a 
 yellowish buff in color and may be depended upon 
 to thrive in all the Pacific Coast states. William 
 Allen Richardson, of the same class, is yellow with 
 an orange center. The Yellow Banksia is, except in 
 color, similar in every respect to the White Banksia 
 and is the more freely planted for the color is clearer 
 and brighter than in the white. 
 
 SUNSET AND COPPER TINTS 
 
 During the past few years the range in color of 
 roses has enjoyed some beautiful additions in flowers 
 of sunset and copper tints. Each year finds new 
 and desirable sorts in the market, but at present the 
 leaders are: Mrs. A. R. Waddell, Lady Hillingdon, 
 Duchess of Wellington, Juliet, Sunburst, and Mrs. 
 Edward Herriott. Under widely varying conditions 
 these novelties would appear to have become stand- 
 ard sorts. 
 
 ROSE HISTORY 
 
 The history of the rose family is an interesting 
 one, extending back a long period of years, though
 
 142 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 the modern up-to-date rose is of comparatively re- 
 cent origin. As an example, La France was the first 
 of its type and was produced in 1867. The rose 
 primarily consisted of native species less than a 
 hundred in number and conceded by conservative 
 botanists as comprising less than half a hundred 
 species. But from these hundred or less species 
 have sprung more than a thousand horticultural va- 
 rieties. This large number of garden varieties rep- 
 resents roses which vary most remarkably in cli- 
 matic requirements so that some may be found for 
 every quarter of the globe. 
 
 It is in the temperate zones, however, that roses 
 flourish, and still better in the northern hemisphere. 
 It is in the same region, too, that most of the native 
 species are found. Roses do not like extreme heat, 
 and in the tropics few native species are found ex- 
 cept well up in the cool atmosphere of the moun- 
 tains. We have ample evidence that cool climates 
 are preferred by the rose from the fact that England 
 and the coast region of Oregon both grow finer roses 
 than California, though we may pick some every 
 month in the year, whereas they cannot. All the 
 parents of the modern race of roses were single, 
 though seldom are they seen in commerce today, and 
 less in California than elsewhere. Rosa rugosa and 
 R. centifolia are the wild species most commonly 
 known, though occasionally an American species is 
 cultivated.
 
 A GARDEN GAZING GLOBE 
 Landscapes in Miniature
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE 
 
 No flower has ever taken a firmer hold on the affec- 
 tions of all peoples than the chrysanthemum, for 
 whether one travels in the Orient, Europe, our own 
 country, or in the out-of-way corners of the earth, 
 the all-popular 'mum is present in the gardens of 
 both rich and poor, and no park or public garden is 
 considered complete without it. Every year brings 
 forth new forms, shades of color, habits of growth or 
 other evidences of progressive development, so that 
 interest in them is never allowed to wane. Never 
 were such satisfactory sorts to be had as at present, 
 and never was enthusiasm among the 'mum fanciers 
 at a higher pitch. 
 
 No other garden plant is accorded such varying 
 treatment as the chrysanthemum, and our amateur 
 gardeners grow them ranging in size from the diam- 
 eter of a half-dollar to that of a large tea saucer. 
 This development is wholly a matter of care; not 
 throughout the year, but for a small portion thereof. 
 If new plants are started every spring and given 
 ordinary garden care, such as all plants usually re- 
 ceive, until within sixty days of blooming, and are 
 then given special treatment, the amateur may pro- 
 duce just as good blooms as the professional. While 
 proper treatment is not difficult, eternal vigilance is 
 the price of good 'mums. 
 
 PROPAGATION 
 
 Chrysanthemums may be propagated either by di- 
 viding old clumps into small clumps, single shoots, or
 
 144 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 by rooting the tips in sand. Nearly all amateur 
 growers use the old clumps year after year, or at 
 most divide them and replant, though no first-class 
 flowers can be produced from any except plants 
 propagated from cuttings rooted early in the same 
 year. Many continue with the old roots for the rea- 
 son that they do not know how easily young plants 
 may be propagated. Clumps that have already flow- 
 ered for one or more years will, if undisturbed, send 
 up vigorous young shoots, and from these should be 
 propagated a stock of plants to supply the autumn 
 crop of flowers. 
 
 The latter half of March is the golden time for 
 propagation, though good results may be had from 
 cuttings taken from January to April. Get a box 
 of six or more inches in depth, bore a few small holes 
 through the bottom to insure drainage and scatter 
 an inch or two of gravel, small stones, or broken pots 
 over the bottom so that excess of water may easily 
 percolate and escape through the numerous drainage 
 holes. On top of this put four or five inches of clean 
 sharp sand and water until it is soaked through. The 
 young shoots of 'mums are so tender you may break 
 them off if you wish, for this method is fully as good 
 as any, and few but trained gardeners will cut them 
 properly; for unless this is done with a very sharp 
 knife, frequently wiped clean, the cuttings may be 
 so injured that they will not root ere they die. Pinch 
 off with thumbnail and finger, or cut with knife all 
 the leaves from each slip except the tuft on the end 
 and cut off the outer half of these if they are inclined 
 to droop. These slips or cuttings should be three or 
 four inches long and planted two inches deep in the 
 sand. 
 
 When you have broken off your slips, if you are 
 an amateur, allow them to stand in fresh water until
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 145 
 
 next morning to prevent wilting during the first 
 day the most important of all days in propagation. 
 Use a piece of lath or other straight edge to lay 
 across the top of the box to mark lines for cuttings. 
 Use an old table knife or a small thin paddle to make 
 a sharp cut or groove in the sand along the straight 
 edge. Insert the cuttings in this cut; never force 
 them into the sand, for this will bruise the tender 
 ends and induce decay. After pressing the sand 
 against the cuttings, make another cut about two 
 inches from the first and proceed as before. 
 
 Use boxes small enough so that you may cover 
 them with panes of glass (unless you have a glass 
 
 GLASS-COVERED PROPAGATING BOX 
 
 house,) and these must be painted or shaded slightly 
 to keep out too much light and heat for the first 
 two weeks. Never allow the glass to fit down closely 
 upon the top of box, but put under the edge little 
 chips of wood a quarter or half inch thick so that a 
 free circulation of air may be had above the cuttings. 
 T T ep the boxes in a sunny position and never allow 
 the sand to get dry. In from three to four weeks all 
 1 be rooted, though they need not be taken out 
 until a couple of weeks later. As soon as they are
 
 146 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 well rooted, put them into three-inch pots and allow 
 them to remain there as long as possible without 
 becoming potbound, or about a month. 
 
 PLANTING OUT 
 
 Plant in rows in their permanent positions, about 
 eighteen inches apart, leaving sufficient space be- 
 tween the rows to give the necessary attention. Set 
 out in rich, mellow, very heavy soil, but one con- 
 taining no fresh manure. A few should be potted 
 or replanted in the box at some distance apart so 
 they may replace any in the field that may perish. 
 If the soil is sandy it needs a liberal supply of cow 
 manure which must be quite rotten or it will burn 
 the roots of the plants as soon as the hot weather 
 commences. Professional growers plant from early 
 in May to the last of July. 
 
 Do not start young plants off with a rush. Avoid 
 stunting them, but just keep them from "standing 
 still." Too much food and drink will result in a 
 luxuriant, top-heavy growth that will have to be cut 
 away at least twice before allowed to head. Feeding 
 heavily with manures or commercial fertilizers is 
 not in order for months yet, or until buds are select- 
 ed. One more don't is in order don't plant young 
 stock too shallowly. Unlike carnations, 'mums are 
 seldom planted too deeply. Stem hardening and wilt- 
 ing of young plants are caused by the roots being left 
 too near the surface. 
 
 TRAINING AND TOPPING 
 
 When young plants are eight inches high their 
 training should begin by pinching out the terminal 
 growth, or if they are much higher cut them off to 
 eight inches, and then they should be allowed three 
 or four branches from the upper part, and these in
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 147 
 
 turn must be pinched or cut until a perfect bush, well 
 balanced, is built up. Never do any topping after 
 July, for this is the last month for restriction of 
 growth. Of course if plants are to be trained to sin- 
 gle stems for one to five flowers, they should not be 
 made to branch into bushes. 
 
 During July all chrysanthemums should be cut 
 back. If your plants are not so treated you will 
 probably get flowers before the hot weather is over 
 and they will be small. If cut back in time and given 
 plenty of food and drink, they will produce flowers in 
 October or November. After the last topping water 
 copiously. It is well to wash with the sprinkler 
 the dust from the leaves about once a week; do this 
 at the close of the day. Adobe soil will not need so 
 much watering as the loamy soil. Judgment must 
 here be used, though water should not be withheld 
 at any time too much can scarcely be given if 
 drainage is good. 
 
 STAKING AND TYING 
 
 As the plants grow up they should be staked and 
 tied, one stalk or stem to a stake. Some sorts, with 
 some growers, often run up to eight feet, but this is 
 not general and is most inexcusable. Plants should 
 be tied with raffia, procurable at any seed store, or 
 with strips of cloth torn into quarter-inch widths, 
 or with some very large soft twine-like candle wick- 
 ing. 
 
 Split shakes make very good stakes; for the 
 dwarf er sorts one length is enough, and for the taller 
 ones they may be spliced. It is all a question, 
 though, of how they are grown. In some cases a 
 few longer and stronger stakes would be necessary, 
 and some use very large ones and group the stems. 
 The better method is to stake every stalk, and then
 
 148 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 but very light, slender stakes are needed. For this 
 purpose the best material is a bundle of shakes (split, 
 not sawed.) These will prove generally useful for 
 garden work. 
 
 FERTILIZING 
 
 After staking comes fertilizing, and this must 
 begin as soon as buds show and be kept up until the 
 buds show the color of the flower, when it must 
 absolutely stop, but great quantities of water must 
 be given daily. Manure water, commercial fertiliz- 
 ers or whatever is given should be used sparingly at 
 first once every ten days or two weeks for about 
 three times, and then once each week until the color- 
 ing buds tell you to stop. 
 
 Usually you may get plenty of good stable manure, 
 and nothing is better for general feeding. As growth 
 continues feed more and more. If you wish to get 
 unusual results feed a small quantity of bone meal 
 twice a week, worked into the soil around base of 
 plant. This feeding must stop when the buds show 
 color or you will "burn" the buds, and they will turn 
 black and soon fall off the stem. When feeding stops 
 and color appears in the bud, no further note need 
 be taken of disbudding, for after this stage of growth 
 such adventitious growths can no longer affect the 
 general crop. The plants require a great deal of 
 water as long as any flowers remain. Do not culti- 
 vate the soil about the plants later than the first of 
 August, but mulch heavily to keep down weeds. 
 
 DISBUDDING 
 
 Special attention must be given to disbudding, and 
 all buds below the top ones should be rubbed out as 
 soon as they appear. This is easily acomplished as 
 soon as the lower buds show by "rubbing" them out 
 with the finger tips as they are very brittle. On
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 149 
 
 some sorts a goodly crop of attenuated side branches 
 break out well down on the main stem, and these 
 should be kept off, or they will take part of the food 
 and thereby weaken the main crop ; for these, being 
 nearer the food supply, will rob all the terminals of 
 a good share of nutriment, and those are the ones 
 from which you may expect the best flowers. 
 
 Much care must be taken in top or flower disbud- 
 ding. The stems to these buds are very brittle and 
 break very easily. Hold the buds with one hand and 
 take a small stick like a toothpick and crowd off the 
 buds which you wish to dispose of. You will make 
 some mistakes here. If you should leave a leaf bud 
 instead of a flower bud all is not lost. The leaf bud 
 will make a branch which will in a short time present 
 a terminal cluster like the one with which you have 
 just dealt; then try again. This breaking out of 
 buds must not be neglected for even a few days, but 
 must be attended to at the proper time. Disbudding 
 for the earliest sorts begins about August 5th and 
 for the very latest sorts about September 15th. 
 
 CROWN AND TERMINAL BUDS 
 
 Growers recognize two kinds of buds, terminal, 
 and crown. These terms are easily understood, the 
 one large bud which first comes at the end of each 
 shoot is the crown bud; the secondary ones are the 
 terminal buds, of which several surround the crown. 
 In the early sorts it is best to use the crown buds. 
 
 The crown buds will begin to show in August, 
 though in fact on some varieties they are formed 
 at any time during the summer, but if surrounding 
 buds are taken off before late in August the crown 
 buds are liable to produce imperfect flowers. Other 
 phases of disbudding may begin earlier if plants are 
 sufficiently advanced. A crown bud may be distin-
 
 150 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 guished when young by the buds directly below or 
 surounding it being growth buds. If these growth 
 buds are not taken off they will finally produce new 
 shoots, and the crown bud will dry up, it being 
 really an abortive flower bud and would never pro- 
 duce a flower without the aid of the grower. These 
 crown buds, being produced fully two weeks before 
 the terminal buds begin to appear, will produce 
 flowers two weeks earlier than if terminals had been 
 chosen. 
 
 For midseason and late varieties it is just as well 
 to take the terminal buds. They appear in a cluster 
 and are all flower buds. These are the buds that are 
 usually chosen for general purpose flowers. It is 
 more work to disbud these, as new buds are contin- 
 ually forming, and the plants have to be gone over 
 several times. When the crown bud is reserved no 
 buds are subsequently formed under it, and if all 
 side shoots are brushed off they will require but one 
 disbudding. Then the leaves begin to assume a dark, 
 leathery appearance, and you may know all the 
 strength of the plant is being concentrated in the 
 flower, and it is likely to be a good one. 
 
 POT CULTURE 
 
 As soon as the plants have filled the three-inch 
 pots with roots, shift again into six-inch pots. Give 
 a good drainage of broken crocks and two-thirds 
 fibrous soil and one-third good rotten manure, water 
 thoroughly and spray occasionally. From this time 
 the plants need no other shift till the final one which 
 is about the first of June. Care should be taken in 
 pinching the plants, pinch either ten days before 
 potting or ten days after as it is liable to check the 
 plants. This is done only to keep the plants from 
 maturing too soon.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 151 
 
 When transplanting to their final pots give good 
 drainage and use good soil and' well rotted manure. 
 For pots the best size is ten or twelve-inch, well 
 drained, and have the soil in a good friable condition. 
 Pot firmly by means of a stick, leaving about two 
 inches from the top of the pot to the soil for water- 
 ing and mulching. The plants should then be thor- 
 oughly watered and placed in a good position and 
 sprayed overhead for a few days, great care being 
 taken in watering till they get well established in the 
 pots. 
 
 SORTS TO GROW 
 
 There are so many named varieties of chrysanthe- 
 mums, all of which will make grand blooms if well 
 cared for, that it is impossible to give a list of the 
 better sorts. Excellence in flowers is more a matter 
 of care than of kind. 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUM HISTORY 
 
 Marco Polo, the Venetian traveler who visited 
 China about the year 1300, mentions having seen 
 the chrysanthemum in that country, and it is be- 
 lieved to be native there, but not to Japan. To the 
 Chinese belongs the credit of raising it to the pres- 
 ent large size and to the Japanese of perfecting its 
 varied forms and colors. It reached Europe about 
 1450 and England about 1700. 
 
 A chrysanthemum with small yellow flowers grew 
 in the Apothecaries' Botanical Garden at Chelsea in 
 England in 1764, but the first of the large-flowered 
 varieties was received at the Royal Gardens at Kew 
 and blossomed in 1764. It is from the latter that the 
 centennial introduction of the flower into England 
 dates. The first English seedlings of the chrysan- 
 themum were raised in 1835; the first chrysanthe- 
 mum exhibition in England was held in 1843 at
 
 152 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 Norwich, and this was soon followed by the organi- 
 zation of the society at Stoke Newington, now known 
 as the National Chrysanthemum Society. 
 
 A new era in the history of the plant opened in 
 England in 1847 by the introduction of the Pompon. 
 In 1843, at the close of the war with China, Mr. 
 Robert Fortune was sent out to that country by the 
 London Horticultural Society to collect rare plants, 
 and one of the curiosities he discovered was the 
 Chusan daisy. This and another small flower from 
 the same source were the parents of the tribe known, 
 from their resemblance to a rosette, as pompon 
 chrysanthemums. Still later, in 1860-62, Mr. For- 
 tune made more discoveries at the town of Ak-sax- 
 saw in Japan. He describes this town of Ak-sax-saw 
 as the most famous place near Yedo for the variety 
 and beauty of its chrysanthemums, some of which 
 were in form and coloring quite distinct from any 
 then known in Europe. "If," he said, "I can succeed 
 in introducing these varieties into Europe, they may 
 create as great change among chrysanthemums as 
 my Chusan daisy did when it became the parent of 
 the present race of Pompons." They were taken up 
 in England, proved successful, and from them sprang 
 those marvelous flowers which are the pride of our 
 gardens.
 
 THE AUSTRALIAN BUNYA-BUNYA 
 Araucaria Bidwillii
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 PESTS AND DISEASES 
 
 Among the worst garden pests we have to deal 
 with are the millipedes, or, as some call them, wire- 
 worms. There seems to be no way of ridding the 
 soil of these pests except by trapping, a very slow 
 and unsatisfactory method. Lime and wood ashes 
 bother them a little, but only a little, and anything 
 strong enough to kill them will also kill the plants. 
 They are especially fond of the bulbs of callas, lilies, 
 gladioli, begonias and anemones, and the roots of 
 stocks, snapdragons, pansies and many other plants. 
 The easiest way to trap them is by laying pieces of 
 boards on the ground, stepping on each piece to see 
 that they are firm. Once a day these should be 
 taken up and the millipedes underneath killed, after 
 which replace the boards and repeat each day until 
 no more are found. 
 
 THE INDUSTRIOUS ANT 
 
 The most persistent garden pest for a great part 
 of the year, and one that multiplies rapidly unless 
 checked, is the industrious ant. One of our agricul- 
 tural colleges states that greatest success in exter- 
 mination of ants has come through use of an arsenic 
 solution. For instant death of invading ants a one 
 per cent solution with enough syrup to sweeten it is 
 used. 
 
 Prof. Woodworth of Berkeley states that he has 
 found that a solution of between one-eighth and one- 
 fourth per cent is best for the reason that it acts
 
 154 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 more slowly and the adults carry it to the nests and 
 feed it to the young, and the whole nest is thereby 
 killed through slow poisoning. He recommends that 
 a sponge saturated with the fluid be placed in a closed 
 jar with a perforated cover so ants only may go and 
 come. These jars may then be safely left about the 
 garden or carried into kitchen or pantry. 
 
 A solution of potassium cyanide at the rate of one 
 ounce to a gallon of water, when poured into a small 
 pit at the exit of a burrow, destroys ants to a depth 
 of one and a half feet below the surface of the soil. 
 This solution can be prepared at a cost of from one 
 and one-half to two cents per gallon. It appears, 
 however, to be injurious to plant life. 
 
 A very effective, but more expensive method, and 
 one that has been used with great success for a num- 
 ber of years, is to pour one or more teaspoons of 
 bisulphide of carbon into the opening of each nest, 
 preferably while the soil is wet, closing the holes 
 promptly afterward with the foot. This insecticide 
 has the advantage of being more penetrating than 
 the others mentioned; it is heavier than air and 
 descends as a gas into all the subterranean tunnels 
 of the ants, destroying them as well as all other liv- 
 ing creatures which may be present. When liberally 
 applied this chemical will destroy entire colonies of 
 ants. 
 
 A very good poison for ants in the greenhouse 
 is a mixture of Paris green and sugar, adding just 
 enough of the poison to white granulated sugar to 
 turn it a light green color. This should be dusted 
 lightly among the pots on and under the benches. 
 Be careful not to put any in the pots or on a bench 
 containing soil, as the Paris green is liable to damage 
 the plants.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 155 
 
 ANTS AND PLANT LICE 
 
 Plant lice are familiar objects to all. The general 
 farmer and the casual observer of these creatures 
 on cabbage and other vegetable crops simply recog- 
 nizes them as lice, but to the florist they are better 
 known under the names of green fly and aphis. An 
 interesting fact in regard to them is that most com- 
 mon species exude from two tubes near the ends of 
 the abdominal segments a transparent fluid having a 
 sweetish taste. It is frequently excreted in great 
 quantity, and this is the secret of the attraction of 
 ants to these creatures. The liquid is known as 
 honey-dew, and it attracts, besides ants, wasps, bees, 
 flies and some other insects. 
 
 PLANT LICE, GREEN FLY, OR APHIS 
 
 Fifty-eight persons competed for a prize offered at 
 Frankfort, Germany, for the best method of de- 
 stroying plant lice. The winner's preparation is as 
 follows : Quassia wood, two and one-half pounds, to 
 be soaked overnight in ten quarts of water and well 
 boiled, then strained through a cloth and placed, with 
 100 quarts of water, in a petroleum barrel with five 
 pounds of soft soap ; to be used as a spray. 
 
 In wet or cool weather they are hard to extermi- 
 nate, but during hot days the fumes of both sulphur 
 and of tobacco dust will sufficiently keep the pests in 
 check. Sprinkle both over the damp foliage, spar- 
 ingly but evenly, in the morning of what promises to 
 be a hot day. The sulphur fumes also destroy the 
 fungus known as mildew. 
 
 One way to get rid of plant lice is to use tobacco 
 water made by pouring boiling water over tobacco 
 stems, or by boiling the stems. After cooling pour 
 off the liquid and add more water. This tobacco tea
 
 156 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 should be used as soon after making as possible and 
 is of little value if allowed to stand two or three 
 days, for it will start to ferment and it then loses its 
 strength. The most convenient form to use is the 
 nicotine extract. A pint of the nicotine is extracted 
 from 150 pounds of tobacco. It comes in pint bottles 
 and is sold to nurserymen for about $1.50 a bottle. 
 Use one tablespoon of the nicotine to five gallons of 
 water. If you use the tea or nicotine it should be 
 sprayed on the plants each morning for three days, 
 and all the aphis will be exterminated. 
 
 WORMS IN FLOWER POTS 
 
 Wireworms or millipedes often bother pot plants, 
 and occasionally other worms are present. The most 
 effective way to drive out these pests is to use lime 
 water. Dissolve lime in water, one pound of lime to 
 about ten gallons of water, though it does not matter 
 how much you use, as only a certain amount will be 
 held in solution. Allow it to settle until water is 
 clear and then water the plants with it. Bottles of 
 this, tightly corked, may be kept on hand, though 
 worms in potting soil are not a very common trouble. 
 The settled lime should be put in the garden as it 
 will benefit both soil and plants. 
 
 CUTWORMS, Sow BUGS, ETC. 
 
 Thoroughly mix one peck, eight quarts or two gal- 
 lons, of wheat bran with one tablespoon of Paris 
 green, then add a quart of strong molasses. Rub all 
 the ingredients together thoroughly until the mass 
 becomes of the same consistency throughout and 
 crumbles easily. Scatter lightly among the plants 
 where the cutworms are feeding, and you will have 
 no further trouble there. This poison also destrops
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 157 
 
 snails, sow bugs, etc. ; it never fails and is the sim- 
 plest treatment for this class of pests. 
 
 One competent authority states that the following 
 formula for a poisoned bran is the most effective he 
 has used : Take of bran eight pounds, Paris green 
 four ounces, common salt two ounces, syrup or mo- 
 lasses one pint. Add sufficient water to make a 
 crumbly or dryish mash. Avoid placing it where 
 chickens or domestic animals will be poisoned. It 
 may be thinly scattered among garden plants that 
 are attacked. 
 
 Probably the most economically applied spray 
 consists of Paris green mixed in the following pro- 
 portions : 
 
 Paris green, pure, or to contain at least fifty per 
 cent arsenious acid, two ounces; fresh lime, one 
 pound; water, 25 gallons. 
 
 Use no ammonia or soap. Make the Paris green 
 into a paste before placing it in a spray tank and 
 keep constantly stirred while spraying. To make 
 the Paris green more insoluble, and thereby prevent 
 injury to the leaves, dissolve six pounds of fresh 
 lime in water and when the lime has settled add 
 the water to the solution and keep it constantly 
 stirred. 
 
 SCALE INSECTS, RED SPIDER, ETC. 
 
 One pound of Gold Dust dissolved in five gallons 
 of water works wonders in cleaning trees and plants 
 of insect life and the smut resultant from their excre- 
 tions. This formula is only for such things as have 
 hard foliage, like citrus trees. A gallon or two more 
 water added to every pound of "dust' will permit its 
 use on soft plants. 
 
 Kerosene emulsion is also good where an insecti- 
 cide is needed. Dissolve one pound of soft soap in
 
 158 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 a gallon of boiling water, keeping it well agitated 
 with a syringe or pump until the soap is quite melted. 
 Then while still boiling, or nearly so, add one pint 
 of kerosene and continue to agitate the mixture for 
 about five minutes, which will thoroughly mix the 
 soap and oil. Dilute with another two gallons of 
 water and it is ready for use. The mixture may be 
 still weaker and used frequently if preferred. It 
 should always be carefully sprayed, using a very 
 fine nozzle, and applied particularly to the under 
 sides of the leaves. 
 
 RATS/ RATS/ 
 
 One wholesale florist says : "Take slaked lime and 
 alum and put the mixture under or on benches, 
 around poultry yards or greenhouses, and you will 
 get rid of all rats. I had them so bad that they de- 
 stroyed my geraniums and carnations. The rat is 
 very fond of water, and when it goes along on this 
 preparation it gets its claws full, rubs its nose, then 
 runs for water ; and as soon as it gets water the ani- 
 mal is destroyed. 
 
 "For ants and slugs the mixture named cannot be 
 beaten by anything on the market. I have nine 
 greenhouses and have not a slug or an ant in the 
 place." 
 
 OAK CATERPILLARS 
 
 The oak trees in some counties of the state are 
 defoliated by the caterpillar of the oak moth, Phry- 
 ganidia Californica, and people who value these 
 beautiful landmarks are much concerned about it. 
 Frequently whole districts are to be seen in which 
 every tree is stripped of its leaves. The remedy 
 against the worm, and one that should be frequently 
 applied, is a Paris green spray, one pound to 200 gal-
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 159 
 
 Ions of water. If this is freely used the worms will 
 soon disappear. 
 
 GOPHERS AND SQUIRRELS 
 
 Some prefer to use bisulphide of carbon to kill 
 gophers and squirrels. It must be used when the 
 ground is damp, or the fumes will not be confined 
 enough to destroy the rodents. After turning about 
 a gill of the liquid in the hole quickly cover with soil 
 and press down to confine the poisonous vapors. 
 Poison, a good cat or trap, will prove equally effect- 
 ive in killing the gophers. 
 
 A good formula for poisoning squirrels is: One 
 ounce strychnine, one ounce cyanide of potassium, 
 one-half gallon molasses, and enough wheat to take 
 up the liquid. It takes about fifty pounds. Enough 
 water is added to moisten it. It is of little use to put 
 out poison when grass and weeds are near by; an- 
 other reason for cleaning the roadways of disfiguring 
 weeds. The strychnine should be dissolved in vine- 
 gar, and the cyanide in warm water, before they are 
 mixed with the molasses and the wheat. 
 
 MILDEW ON ROSES, ETC. 
 
 Mildew is a fungus plant which is parasitic on the 
 rose and other plants and appears as a gray, pow- 
 dery substance on the young growth, attacking both 
 foliage and stem. It can be checked by the use of sul- 
 phur as it is used to stop mildew on grape vines. Be 
 sure you treat your plants generously with manure 
 and water to keep them in good health. 
 
 On the first appearance of the disease it is advis- 
 able to dust the foliage with sulphur. This is best 
 done in the evening when there is no wind to blow 
 it off, or in early morning after spraying with water. 
 At this stage some spray with a light solution of sul-
 
 160 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 phide of potassium, but if a spray is found necessary 
 it will be better to use the Bordeaux mixture, which 
 for our purpose should be made as follows : Copper 
 sulphate, five pounds ; lime, five pounds ; water, forty 
 gallons. A very weak solution of soft soap used as a 
 spray is also beneficial. 
 
 We give below the two latest approved sprays, the 
 first recipe comes from England and is vouched for 
 by William Payne, F. L. S., Honorable Secretary of 
 the National Rose Society, and a famous rosarian; 
 the second from a skillful rose grower of the 
 United States. Both are good. 
 
 "Boil two pounds of soft soap in two gallons of 
 water; while still boiling and immediately after it 
 has been removed from the fire add half a pint of 
 paraffine oil and a quarter pound of sulphur. When 
 using add half a pint of this solution to a gallon of 
 water, soft water is best, and apply as a spray." 
 
 "Shave up a bar of ivory soap, or any kind which 
 contains no free alkali, and dissolve in a pail of boil- 
 ing water. When dissolved, dilute with five pails 
 of cold water. This does not need washing off again 
 as the thin coating is a preventive as well as a cura- 
 tive. It will also kill all kinds of aphids, or green 
 fly, as well as red spider on violets."
 
 CHILEAN WINE OR HONEY PALM 
 Jubeae spectabilis
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 THE GARDEN CALENDAR 
 
 JANUARY 
 
 The planting season for all but tender growths is 
 at hand and new gardening operations should be 
 under full sway. Do not send east of the Rocky 
 Mountains for either seeds or plants. None are so 
 well adapted to local conditions as home-grown stock, 
 and our seeds are famous the world over. Conditions 
 are so entirely different with us that vegetation cul- 
 tivated under other methods and environment is not 
 so well suited to our gardens as that grown here. 
 There is also another good business reason for 
 patronizing local dealers ; they are get-at-able in case 
 you receive unsatisfactory stock. 
 
 GENERAL WORK 
 
 Now is the time to attend to manuring and spad- 
 ing vacant beds and borders. After spading leave 
 the ground in a rough state; don't rake it down, as 
 the sun and air will do more good and it will leave 
 the ground in a more friable condition than if raked 
 smooth. Don't be afraid to enrich abundantly as 
 the ground will be in better condition for spring 
 planting. 
 
 Get rid of all rubbish, dead weeds, etc., so that 
 when the spring crop of garden pests hatches it 
 will find less shelter. Such a cleaning up removes 
 many insects in a dormant state, or their eggs, and 
 very often both insects and eggs. This garden rub- 
 bish should always be burned or deeply composted.
 
 162 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 When taken from a garden full of pests it should be 
 carried, not dragged, over the ground, thereby avoid- 
 ing scattering insects and diseases. 
 
 SEED SOWING 
 
 Do not fail to plant a few native wild flowers. Our 
 California seeds, plants, and bulbs are in heavy de- 
 mand the world over, more so in every European 
 country than is the case here at home. We have a 
 long list of beauties that thrive splendidly in the gar- 
 den and range through all shades and colors in the 
 flowers. 
 
 For summer and fall flowers an early sowing of 
 antirrhinum, arctotis, aster, calliopsis, celosia, cen- 
 taurea, chrysanthemum, dianthus, Phlox Drum- 
 mondi, summer flowering stocks, salvia, etc., may 
 be made now. The seedsman can give you an idea of 
 what will be the better seeds to sow for seasons 
 vary according to amount, time of rainfall, etc., 
 and no hard and fast rule may be laid down. The 
 more tender annuals would be risky at present if you 
 have no greenhouse or protection for them. Hardy 
 varieties may be sown at any time. 
 
 No better time could be found than January for 
 the sowing of sweet peas for spring blossoms. The 
 plants like to grow in the cool earth, and if sown 
 now the vines will be shading the roots before the 
 soil gets overheated. It matters little how warm the 
 atmosphere is if the soil below is cool and moist, and 
 this it must be if success comes. The modern sweet 
 pea is a wonderful improvement over the old types 
 and may be obtained in nearly every shade from 
 white to black. Of late the orchid-flowered Spencer 
 strain is much in demand and far more beautiful 
 than the plain, unruffled flowers.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 163 
 
 DIVIDING ROOTS AND TUBERS 
 
 If you are going to propagate a stock of chrysan- 
 themums for the present year, either by dividing 
 them to single shoots or by rooting the tips in sand, 
 you should find proper material on the old clumps; 
 water and cultivate so that you may get cuttings in 
 thirty or forty days. A box of clean, sharp sand in a 
 shaded position will give you good results if not neg- 
 lected. 
 
 Where large beds and borders of canna, cyperus, 
 papyrus and elephant ear have not been disturbed 
 for three or more years, it will be found advisable 
 to dig up the cannas and caladiums and store them 
 away until March or April, and the large clumps of 
 papyrus and cyperus can be divided and replanted in 
 the border when it is spaded up, or divided in spring. 
 These can stand any amount of fertilizer. Dig up 
 the beds as deeply as possible and turn under several 
 inches of well-rotted manure ; leave the beds rough, 
 and later in planting time they will be in a good 
 friable condition to replant. 
 
 BULBS 
 
 Gladiolus may be planted now, using rich ground, 
 and plant them at intervals of two or three weeks 
 for the next four months, to get a succession of 
 blooms throughout the summer. Also plant calla, 
 dahlia and Easter lily. 
 
 Those who have not planted bulbs of anemone, 
 hyacinth, ixia, lily, narcissus, ranunculus, sparaxis 
 and tulip should put them in the ground at once, if 
 any of these flowers are desired. If a handful of 
 sharp sand is placed in the hole for each bulb to set 
 on, it will insure success in many cases where failure 
 would otherwise result. Soak bulbs of anemone and 
 ranunculus a couple of hours before planting.
 
 164 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 TREES, SHRUBS AND HERBS 
 
 Roses are dormant and if planted now will at once 
 start into growth and produce a bountiful crop of 
 blooms early in the season. 
 
 This is a golden time for the planting of all de- 
 ciduous trees and shrubs, also hardy evergreens ; but 
 citrus trees and the more tender sorts, both fruiting 
 and ornamental, are better left until February or 
 March. The latter class will start only when the soil 
 gets warm in spring from the increasing heat of the 
 sun; in the meantime they remain dormant. 
 
 Roses may be pruned and manure spaded in about 
 them any time during the month ; in March they will 
 begin to sprout for the spring crop of blooms. Do 
 not prune such climbers at the present time as 
 Cherokee, Banksia, Beauty of Glazenwood, Gold of 
 Ophir, etc., as their bloom is produced all along the 
 branches. The best time to prune these is after their 
 spring crop of flowers ; then they will have time dur- 
 ing summer to grow long branches for next season's 
 flowers. 
 
 Pansy plants are ready to plant out, and care 
 should be taken in preparing the ground. Many 
 people complain they bought the best seeds or the 
 finest plants, and they are no better, in flowers, than 
 common ones. The cause of such failures is poor soil 
 or lack of preparation. To prepare the ground for 
 pansies: Choose your location, which should be 
 sunny at least two-thirds of the day ; manure it well ; 
 get some charcoal, pulverize it and spade it in with 
 the manure. After spading sow some soot on top 
 of the ground and rake it in thoroughly. The char- 
 coal and soot are to sweeten the soil, the soot also 
 keeps away snails and other injurious insects; 
 together they give a rich dark color to the plants and
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 165 
 
 also serve to bring out richness of color in the 
 flowers. 
 
 Other seasonable flowering plants which may be 
 planted now, include the antirrhinum, calendula, 
 carnation, delphinium, dianthus, hollyhock, pansy, 
 pelargonium or Lady Washington geranium (if you 
 have a hot south front where other plants burn 
 up during summer try a few), pentstemon, phlox, 
 stock, Shasta daisy, verbena (all colors make a 
 splendid display in April if planted now) , and wall- 
 flower. 
 
 A TIMELY WARNING 
 
 Do not be in a hurry to fertilize your lawn; the 
 present cold weather is good for the grass, it gives it 
 a resting period. The disadvantage of fertilizing too 
 early is that it will force a new growth at the time 
 we are getting our coldest weather, and the conse- 
 quence is the tender young grass gets nipped by the 
 frost when "in the milk." When it should look nice 
 in the early spring it stops growing and looks brown. 
 It is forced from its natural resting time, the tender 
 growth is frozen, and it takes its rest toward spring 
 when the fertilizer has exhausted its forcing quali- 
 ties or has been washed away. Grass should rest 
 during the coldest weather. February and March or 
 even April will be found the best months to manure 
 the lawns, and from that time there will be a luxu- 
 riant growth until the cold weather of autumn comes 
 again. 
 
 FEBRUARY 
 
 The present should be the season of greatest activ- 
 ity in gardening. Bear in mind spring is fully on us 
 and perfection of bloom next summer demands early 
 attention to the garden this month. Plants of all 
 kinds are pushing forth new growths, swelling buds
 
 166 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 on deciduous trees denote the rising sap, all nature 
 feels the pulse of spring. 
 
 GENERAL WORK 
 
 Nearly all plants should be pruned and fertilized 
 at this time, soil stirred, rubbish cleared away and 
 plants and seeds put in the ground. A month or so 
 later the value of such work is much less than if done 
 at present. The only plants which should not be set 
 out until later are those of a strictly tropical nature, 
 most of which are foliage plants like cyperus, canna, 
 elephant's ear, etc. Another tropical root or bulb 
 which should wait for a month is the dahlia. Fer- 
 tilize all growing plants, but not dormant ones. 
 
 After a rain time should elapse sufficient to dry 
 the soil into a workable condition, for soil worked 
 when unfit becomes still more unfit for planting. In 
 the meantime, if soaking rain has not come, put your 
 soil in a condition to receive all that falls. There 
 is always considerable doubt as to our rainfall, in 
 time and quantity, but it is far better for plant life 
 than the water pipe supply, so that we should aim 
 both to catch and to hold it. For this purpose leave 
 your soil in the rough, well spaded up, until you need 
 to use it. After each rain, for fear no more will 
 come, hoe and rake the surface as deeply as you may 
 easily go, to conserve what has already fallen. 
 
 SEED SOWING 
 
 Begonias of the tuberous rooted section may be 
 grown from the seeds indoors, and it is also time to 
 plant seeds of torrenias which are of a like delicate 
 nature and suitable for the same positions, whole 
 or partial shade. 
 
 Sow seeds for fall and summer flowers: Antir- 
 rhinum, aster, calliopsis, celosia, chrysanthemum,
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 167 
 
 salvia, stock, sweet pea, sweet William ; your seeds- 
 man will tell you of the kinds that are timely. 
 Hardy annuals may of course be sown at any time. 
 
 CUTTINGS AND DIVISIONS 
 
 Carnation cuttings may be rooted in precisely the 
 same manner prescribed in another chapter for 
 chrysanthemums. Hardwood cuttings of deciduous 
 shrubs such as crepe myrtle, deutzia, hydrangea, 
 lemon verbena, lilac and weigelia should now be 
 made and put in sand or soil. 
 
 With the first warm weather after a heavy rain it 
 will do to divide herbaceous perennials like golden- 
 rod, golden glow, Shasta daisy, and even chrysan- 
 themum. The latter are best if propagated each 
 season by rooting tips in a box of sand. It is rather 
 early, although the first of March should see them 
 started. By planting the cuttings in sand, keeping 
 moist but not too wet, you can easily perpetuate a 
 stock of your favorite 'mums. 
 
 BULBS 
 
 Finish planting lily, anemone and ranunculus. 
 Plant agapanthus, amaryllis, canna, calla, caladium, 
 elephant's ear, dahlia, iris, gladiolus, tuberose and all 
 that class of bulbs, corms and roots. Do not plant all 
 gladioli at once, though earlier plantings give the 
 better flowers. 
 
 Tuberous begonias may be started in pots during 
 this month and planted out in April. A soil of one- 
 third each of sand, leaf mold, and good garden loam 
 is ideal for this or any other class of begonias, and 
 this should always be the composition for pot cul- 
 ture. Remember in placing the dormant bulb on 
 soil that the hollow side should be up. Set pots away 
 in cool shady spot until tops show through soil, and
 
 168 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 then gradually inure to sun. Every year marks an 
 improvement in this class of begonia, and no garden 
 is complete without them. They range from white 
 to deep orange and crimson, both single and double, 
 also plain and fringed. 
 
 GENERAL PLANTING 
 
 During February you may plant bare root, dor- 
 mant roses if a good rain has fallen. It is also timely 
 to prune and fertilize those now in the garden. De- 
 ciduous trees and shrubs should be planted at once, 
 and all hardy seeds and plants should be rushed into 
 the soil for growing weather is with us and only 
 those plants that get a good start in spring come to 
 greatest perfection. Carnation, petunia, pansy, 
 stock, verbena, and salvia can be transplanted from 
 seed boxes to the open beds. 
 
 February is a good month for planting golden 
 glow, or summer chrysanthemum (a rudbeckia). 
 Few of the seedsmen or nurserymen handling orna- 
 mentals catalogue it, and few people seem to know 
 it, though it is by no means a novelty. It is a large, 
 showy plant attaining in good soil a height of six or 
 eight feet the same season planted; flowers three 
 and one-half inches in diameter, double, well formed, 
 deep golden color, and borne on long stems which 
 render them suitable for cutting. They are magnifi- 
 cent for indoor decoration. Plants bloom profusely 
 from June to October. 
 
 TRANSPLANTING EVERGREENS 
 
 The best time to transplant an evergreen is when 
 the growth is about to start. This is usually in the 
 spring when moisture and heat are adequate to stim- 
 ulate new growth. The best season is from February 
 to May, according to the region in which you are
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 169 
 
 working. Heat is then sufficient and not excessive, 
 and moisture is usually plentiful. Everything feels 
 like growing under these conditions and the tree 
 quickly establishes itself. 
 
 The deciduous tree can safely be transplanted dur- 
 ing the whole of its dormant period unless the ground 
 is cold and water soaked; the evergreen does best 
 near the close of its period of dormancy. The tree 
 .does not need manure in the hole ; if you wish to push 
 it, use manure on top when you are sure that it has 
 reestablished itself. All evergreens should be taken 
 up with a ball of dirt if possible. It is a great deal 
 better to get a part of the roots in natural position 
 and condition than to get all the roots with their 
 natural connections with the soil destroyed. 
 
 LAWN WORK 
 
 February is usually a good month for lawn fertil- 
 ization, though in a backward season March is pre- 
 ferable. The lawn may be covered with well rotted 
 manure. Wet down well to wash manure into soil as 
 much as possible. Rake over every day or two so the 
 grass roots will not be smothered and killed out. 
 After a week or two of this treatment, lightly rake 
 off the manure which may remain on top. 
 
 See that natural fertilizers, if used, are well rotted 
 for they may be full of unsprouted seeds of Bermuda 
 grass, dandelion and other pernicious weeds and 
 bring to your lawn more harm than good. A safer 
 plan, unless absolutely sure of your material, is to 
 buy a commercial lawn fertilizer, of which there are 
 numerous good brands in the market. 
 
 Bone meal is fine for a lawn. True up the edges 
 and seed with blue grass or clover where the soil is 
 bare or where weeds have choked out the grass. If 
 Bermuda grass is crowding into the lawn sow a lib-
 
 170 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 eral supply of white clover as advised in the chapter 
 on lawns. 
 
 MARCH 
 
 The month of March should be a very active one 
 so far as general garden work is concerned, and 
 planting, pruning and propagation should be the 
 active program, followed by irrigation, cultivation 
 and fertilization. 
 
 GENERAL WORK 
 
 Ground should be spaded up and aired for two or 
 three weeks for the tropical perennials. After thor- 
 ough exposure for a time scatter some well rotted 
 manure over the surface, roughly break up the lumps 
 and smooth it somewhat and respade to mix the fer- 
 tilizer thoroughly into the soil. Not until April will 
 the ground be warm enough to induce a quick, vigor- 
 ous growth of these plants. 
 
 Don't continually stir the soil around shallow 
 rooted plants. Get some well rotted manure and 
 mulch the surface of your beds, being careful not to 
 cover the crown of the plants. You will lighten your 
 work and get infinitely better results. A mulch 
 keeps the soil cool and moist; it checks evaporation 
 and prevents the soil from cracking and drying out. 
 It eliminates a lot of useless labor and will insure 
 you a fine crop of perfect blooms. 
 
 SEED SOWING 
 
 In the sowing of all seeds mentioned care must be 
 exercised to keep them constantly moist and to sow 
 them in a rather light compost; this is particularly 
 applicable to asters, which if allowed to become dry 
 at any time during the germinating period will sure- 
 ly perish.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 171 
 
 Be careful not to cover seeds too deeply; one- 
 eighth of an inch is sufficient for asters, and in the 
 case of very small seeds not to exceed one-sixteenth 
 of an inch. Sweet peas planted now will not flower 
 before the weather is too warm to allow a normal 
 development. Small, puny flowers will result. 
 
 March is the ideal month for the sowing of a host 
 of summer annuals. In a month or two beds which 
 you devoted to bulbs for winter and spring bloom- 
 ing will be empty, so make preparations for succes- 
 sional plantings. A few of the more important an- 
 nuals for summer are : Antirrhinum, aster, balsam, 
 celosia, cockscomb, calliopsis, centaurea, cosmos, 
 dianthus, larkspur, African and French marigolds, 
 nasturtium, Phlox Drummondi, salpiglossis, scabio- 
 sa, zinnia, etc. The foregoing are but a few lead- 
 ers. There are dozens of others. 
 
 PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS 
 
 Bottom heat either in greenhouse or in a hotbed 
 made with stable manure will prove a great aid, in 
 all cases bringing a much greater proportion of the 
 cuttings to root. However, bottom heat is not 
 needed, though better results can be obtained with 
 such a convenience. The average garden owner 
 would better rely on the nurseryman for needed 
 plants. For those who wish to experiment the fol- 
 lowing is recommended. 
 
 Make all cuttings with a sharp knife, occasionally 
 wiped clean, cutting through at an angle of about 45 
 degrees, just below a bud or eye. Insert these cut- 
 tings in a box of clean, sharp sand in rows. Do not 
 force them down but use a lath or other straight 
 edge by laying on sand and making a cut in the wet 
 sand with a piece of shingle, old table knife or simi- 
 lar utensil, and after insertion of cuttings press the
 
 172 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 sand back against them and water well. After this 
 keep damp, not wet, yet never allow to dry, and see 
 that drainage is good by first boring a few small 
 holes through bottom of box. 
 
 All bedding plants may now be propagated, such 
 as ageratum, alternanthera, begonia, carnation, 
 coleus, fuchsia, heliotrope, iresine, marguerite, salvia 
 and santolina. Select young brittle tips. Propagate 
 violets from cuttings so that you may have flowering 
 plants for next winter. 
 
 While some prefer the earlier winter months for 
 the propagation of roses from hardwood cuttings, 
 there are many gardeners who have splendid success 
 with March cuttings. All deciduous shrubs and trees 
 that have not yet started into leaf or bloom, such as 
 crepe myrtle, deutzia, hydrangea, lilac and weigelia, 
 will grow very readily from cuttings during this 
 month, and any of these sorts to be moved or planted 
 should be handled at once. The cuttings should be 
 made long enough to have three or more eyes and be 
 set firmly and deeply in a sand box or the ground, 
 leaving one or two eyes above the surface. A par- 
 tially shaded position is best. 
 
 PROPAGATION BY DIVISION 
 
 All perennials may now be divided and replanted 
 except the strictly tropical plants, and these had best 
 be left for a while: Delphinium, or larkspur; 
 solidago, or goldenrod ; helianthus, sunflower, peren- 
 nial ; pentstemon ; phlox ; rudbeckia, or golden glow, 
 and Shasta daisy are just right for division, and 
 nearly all are much improved by the process being 
 repeated each year. 
 
 Old roots of chrysanthemum should be cultivated 
 and watered imediately to provide young and tender 
 shoots for slips or cuttings to be taken during April
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 173 
 
 or May. If you cannot propagate them from the 
 cuttings, divide the clumps into the smallest rooted 
 pieces you can. 
 
 Florists and gardeners start all 'mums from cut- 
 tings each year, throwing the old clumps away as 
 soon as cuttings are rooted. Clumps of all the oth- 
 ers noted may be divided and planted according to 
 the taste of the planter. The latter end of the month 
 is early enough to plant your broken up clumps of 
 canna, caladium or elephant's ear, cyperus, dahlia, 
 ginger, etc. 
 
 BULBS 
 
 Plant out summer flowering bulbs, especially more 
 gladiolus, reserving a few for later planting, though 
 the early plantings usually give best results. Trito- 
 nia, or montbretia, closely allied to the gladiolus, may 
 be had in a variety of shades from yellow to red ; try 
 a few of the better sorts ; they need no care but being 
 kept free from weeds. Calla, canna, dahlia, tube- 
 rose, and tigridia are also in order for planting. 
 
 Amaryllis which have been left in the ground 
 should have the surrounding soil loosened up and 
 pulverized, and they should be given a good mulching 
 with well rotted manure, preferably from the horse 
 stable. Tuberous begonias, if started now, should be 
 planted in pots and later placed in their permanent 
 home. They should always be grown in the shade 
 and have a rich, loose, well drained soil. If you in- 
 tend planting the bulbs directly in the soil, hold for a 
 month yet. Tritonias may be treated the same as 
 gladiolus. If they have been left in the ground for 
 years and are very thick, pull out three-fourths of 
 them ; you will get more blooms and better ones than 
 you could obtain by keeping all.
 
 174 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 GENERAL PLANTING 
 
 March is the month in which to look after plants 
 for next winter's flowers. Especially is this true of 
 carnation, chrysanthemum and violet. Carnations 
 should not be grown longer than three years and 
 should then be replaced by younger plants. Now is 
 the time to plant aster, celosia, centaurea, calliopsis, 
 salvia, Shasta daisy and verbena. 
 
 If you have planted no pansy seeds, you had best 
 buy plants now for it is rather too late to get the best 
 results from seeds. If your plants are already grow- 
 ing see that the surface soil is kept well stirred and 
 pulverized. Pansies are gross feeders and the beds 
 should be well mulched with manure. For spring 
 flowers plant in sunny place, for summer flowering 
 plant in a somewhat shady place. 
 
 Now is the time to plant violets, either in young 
 plants or cuttings, to get the best results, next fall 
 and winter, in blooms. Violets like a rich, loose soil, 
 with a top mulch of light manure during the heated 
 term, and don't forget to give them a generous sup- 
 ply of water at frequent intervals. Put your plants 
 in several exposures, not all in the shade, so that you 
 may be able to gather violets over a considerable 
 period of time. 
 
 PRUNING SHRUBS AND VINES 
 
 Prune hydrangea now, as it flowers on the current 
 season's growth. Also cut poinsettia back to three 
 eyes of last season's growth. Do not prune deutzia, 
 spirea, syringa, and weigelia at this time. If you 
 do you will lose most of your blooming wood. They 
 should be pruned immediately after they are through 
 blooming. 
 
 Bignonia and bougainvillea should be pruned now. 
 On bignonia leave as many of the stronger growths
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 175 
 
 as are needed to cover the object on Which it is to 
 grow, and cut out all other main shoots back to the 
 root. All laterals on the shoots left should be cut 
 back to two or three eyes, not more. Cut out all the 
 coarse suckers that came from the roots of the bou- 
 gainvillea last year, for they will produce but few 
 flowers, and thin out the vine to suit yourself, though 
 the main stems should not be trimmed clean at the 
 bottom. These vines look best when well furnished 
 with foliage to the ground. No danger will result 
 from heavy pruning ; it is needed. 
 
 PRUNE AND FEED ROSES 
 
 Be careful not to trim spring and early summer 
 blooming climbers now or you will get few flowers. 
 These roses: Banksias, Beauty of Glazenwood, 
 Cherokees, Gold of Ophir, etc., should be given only 
 such pruning as is necessary to keep them within 
 proper bounds immediately after their annual crop 
 of flowers. After this period they bend all their en- 
 ergies toward making flower bearing wood for next 
 year. This in itself is enough to suggest the proper 
 pruning season. 
 
 During this month roses push out their new 
 growths. New canes will break from the eyes both 
 above and below the surface of the soil. Assist this 
 growth in every manner possible. Give the beds a 
 good forking over, dress the surface with a liberal 
 coat of air slacked lime to sweeten it, following some 
 time later with a heavy mulch of any good fibrous 
 manure. Subsequent rains or waterings will leach 
 the plant food from this dressing and give a sur- 
 passing vigor to the new growths. In proportion as 
 you treat roses now will they repay you in bloom 
 production during April, May and June.
 
 176 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 LAWN WORK 
 
 There is no better time than the present for lawn 
 work of all kinds, whether it be the planting of new 
 ones or the renovation, rolling or fertilization of old 
 ones. From now until the cold weather of next win- 
 ter comes the grass will make a steady luxurious 
 growth, receiving no check, such as is often noticed 
 on lawns which were fertilized too early. 
 
 Be sure to fertilize your lawn this month for the 
 increasing power of the sun will soon start it into 
 vigorous growth. A commercial fertilizer is much 
 to be preferred to stable manure full of weed seeds. 
 Also seed the places now bare or where weeds are 
 so thick that no grass remains after their removal. 
 
 APRIL 
 
 The warm sunshine is peculiarly severe on plants 
 at this season when the growth is young and tender, 
 and the need for water to keep up this new growth 
 is great. A light sprinkling each morning before 
 the sun shines too fiercely (better still before sun- 
 rise) is an excellent invigorator, but will not take 
 the place of the necessary copious irrigation at the 
 roots that the plants should have about twice each 
 week. This prescription is for herbaceous plants; 
 once each week is enough for shrubs of normal 
 growth. 
 
 GENERAL WORK 
 
 This is a busy month in the garden; there is all 
 kinds of work to keep one busy. It is the last month 
 in which spring planting should be done. Now the 
 ground is warm enough to induce a quick, vigorous 
 growth, and all plants will give satisfaction. When 
 watering, do it thoroughly ; sprinkling the top of the 
 ground does little good. Get all spraying for plant
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 177 
 
 pests and diseases done before it gets too hot. Watch 
 rose bushes for green aphis and if troubled use to- 
 bacco dust freely. 
 
 In this warm weather pansy roots must be kept 
 cool and moist or the blossoming will be checked; 
 loosen the soil about the plants without disturbing 
 the roots, and then give a good mulch of fine stable 
 manure. Perform the same office for the amaryllis 
 and hippeastrum bulbs, but stir the soil more deeply. 
 Thin out plants sown from seeds, if in their proper 
 place, or transplant at once. Do not try to save 
 sickly ones ; they never recuperate satisfactorily. 
 
 SEED SOWING 
 
 Sow in seed boxes perennials like campanula, col- 
 umbine, foxglove, daisy, hollyhock, larkspur, pent- 
 stemon, gaillardia, coreopsis, also snapdragon. 
 
 Sow in the garden all annuals, especially agera- 
 tum, balsam, centaurea, cockscomb, marigold, cos- 
 mos, nasturtium, phlox, poppy, portulaca, scabiosa, 
 salpiglossis, zinnia; also vines such as Australian 
 pea vine, morning glory, cypress vine. 
 
 DIVISION OF PERENNIALS 
 
 If you have not yet divided clumps of goldenrod, 
 golden glow, or rudbeckia, etc., by all means do so at 
 once before the new growth gets too large. All per- 
 ennials should be divided or replanted as quickly as 
 possible, for the best growing weather is now with 
 us. 
 
 During the present month all canna, caladium, 
 cyclamen, banana and dahlia plants still out of the 
 soil should be placed in the garden, and as they are 
 what is known as tropical bedders, they will be most 
 effective if massed, with the tallest at the back;
 
 178 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 planted in "bank" effect. Water often and most 
 thoroughly. 
 
 BULBS 
 
 Spring bulb flowers will be nearly past now ; gar- 
 deners who have been very successful still plant: 
 amaryllis, canna, dahlia, gladiolus and tuberose. 
 
 If you wish good tuberous begonias in the open 
 ground, plant them now, having a good, rich soil, as 
 near to that recommended for pot culture as is pos- 
 sible to obtain. In addition to the ordinary single 
 and double strains, there are superb varieties that 
 should be grown in every garden. These are a great 
 improvement on those ordinarily seen in California 
 gardens. 
 
 A good compost for potting these begonias con- 
 sists of one-third garden loam, one-third leaf mold, 
 and the remaining one-third of equal parts of sharp 
 sand and well rotted manure. Be sure to place the 
 tubers with the hollow sides upward, as all the plant 
 growth starts from within this hollow. If in pots, 
 put them in a shady place until growth shows 
 through the soil, when they may be moved into the 
 light and gradually exposed to the forenoon's sun. 
 The advantage of starting them in pots is that you 
 may use the ground intended for them for spring 
 blooming plants and bulbs whose season will be past 
 by the time your begonias demand planting out. 
 
 HERBACEOUS PLANTS 
 
 It is not too late to put out bedding plants such as 
 salvia, marigold, alternanthera, etc., and they do as 
 well as those planted in early spring. 
 
 This is a good time to bed out for permanent ef- 
 fect, the very best for geraniums and herbaceous 
 plants of their class. Set out : Aster, antirrhinum, 
 centaurea, calliopsis, chrysanthemum and celosia.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 179 
 
 CARE OF LAWNS 
 
 Lawns will need to be watered often as lawn grass 
 does not root over two or three inches deep, but 
 water thoroughly and induce deep rooting. 
 
 Some may not have fertilized their lawns as yet, 
 though the time is ripe. Try some commercial fer- 
 tilizer this spring and note the season's growth of 
 grass; these balanced mixtures should prove much 
 superior to weed-bearing stable manures. From now 
 until winter the grass should make a steady, luxu- 
 rious growth, receiving no check. 
 
 MAY 
 
 During the summer it is not best to water many 
 plants during the heat of the day. Water in the 
 evening so that the plants may absorb the moisture 
 during the night and they will be the better able to 
 stand the evaporation occurring during the day ; or 
 do the sprinkling very early in the morning. 
 
 Throughout the summer the air is generally hot 
 and dry and dissipates much of the moisture in- 
 tended for plants to consume; consequently it is 
 during the prevalence of hot weather and rapid 
 growth that plants require food in soluble form. 
 Liquid fertilizers are readily absorbed by the feed- 
 ing roots and at once assimilated by the tissues of 
 plants. The excess of moisture lost through evapo- 
 ration is compensated for by the plant food con- 
 tained in the part that is absorbed. 
 
 In the case of house and porch plants, small, neat 
 beds against the house, etc., it is often impracticable 
 to use stable manure, especially if none but the 
 coarser kinds are obtainable, but every one, espe- 
 cially in the suburbs or country, may keep a supply 
 of liquid manure. Fill a common grain sack with
 
 180 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 any kind of manure, though the older the better. 
 Put it in a barrel and fill with water. After stand- 
 ing 24 hours it is ready for use. The barrel can be 
 refilled with water several times without replenish- 
 ishing the supply of manure, but with each filling 
 the water must be allowed to stand a longer time 
 before using. 
 
 SEED SOWING 
 
 For later planting in the garden sow seeds of 
 primula and calceolaria or set out plants of the same 
 raised from former sowings. Seeds of many annuals 
 and perennials may still be sown, though nearly all 
 seed sowing should be completed this month. 
 
 It is not too late to sow, either in boxes or in seed 
 beds or permanent places, seeds of carnation, cos- 
 mos, coreopsis, candytuft, centaurea, daisies, digi- 
 talis, forget-me-not, gaillardia, marigold, nasturtium, 
 phlox, petunia, poppies, salpiglossis and scabiosa. 
 
 BULBS 
 
 If they have been kept in a cool, dark place you 
 may still procure and plant dormant bulbs of amaryl- 
 lis, allium, begonia, canna, cyclamen, dahlia, freesia, 
 gladiolus, iris, scilla, tigridia and tuberose. 
 
 Hyacinths, narcissi and other Holland bulbs will 
 now be ripening their tops. If the area they occupy 
 is not to be used for other plants they may as well 
 remain in present position, but if not they had bet- 
 ter be taken up and stored till next season in a cool, 
 dry, dark place. Place them in a box of damp sand 
 and they will cure as the sand dries. If sand is not 
 easily obtainable, well-pulverized soil will do, or take 
 up each bulb with some of the surrounding soil still 
 adhering to it and let it so remain for a few weeks, 
 after which the bulbs may be taken out and kept 
 cool and dry until planting season.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 181 
 
 HERBACEOUS PLANTS 
 
 Chrysanthemum plants should now be well estab- 
 lished in pots and may be put in the garden at once. 
 Also set out in the garden plants of antirrhinum, 
 aster, balsam, centaurea, dianthus, marigold and 
 zinnia. 
 
 Young plants of carnation are now growing vigor- 
 ously and are usually too slender. They should have 
 the leaders cut or pinched off to induce stocky plants. 
 If they are allowed their natural growth they will 
 run up in tall, spindly flower stalks, bloom too early 
 and produce flowers inferior to those of headed 
 plants. 
 
 JUNE 
 
 Little new work or planting should be done at this 
 late period, and work during June will consist mainly 
 in keeping the garden watered and taking care of it 
 in a general way. 
 
 Garden owners of limited experience are too apt 
 to neglect their gardens during the early part of 
 summer. Having planted, cultivated and watched 
 the unfolding of leaf and blossom of spring growth, 
 they rest from their labors in the belief that the sea- 
 son's gardening operations are practically over. 
 
 Weeds grow under the stimulus of water and sun- 
 shine just as luxuriantly now as in the springtime, 
 and the ripening seeds of summer are just as potent 
 and productive as those of early harvest days. The 
 summer's sun is just now stronger and shines longer 
 upon the garden than at any other time of the year ; 
 the evaporation and drain upon the soil moisture are 
 therefore correspondingly greater. 
 
 Frequent and copious irrigations, followed by thor- 
 ough cultivations, must be rigidly practiced, and the 
 morning spraying, just before the heat of the sun
 
 182 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 strikes the plants, should not be forgotten. Do not 
 water and spray in the evening except for special 
 plants, as it leaves both soil and air cold and damp 
 throughout the night, and the following day with its 
 dry heat brings too great a contrast 'twixt night and 
 day; this is one of the chief causes of mildew on 
 roses, sweet peas, etc., and other fungous diseases. 
 
 In your garden operations aim to equalize condi- 
 tions of night and day so far as possible. Spray and 
 water in the morning and the plants will have cool, 
 moist soil and atmosphere to help withstand the 
 desiccating influence of our summer's sun and heat. 
 Before nightfall air and plants have taken up the 
 moisture, and both atmosphere and soil are dry and 
 warm for the night. Aim to equalize the temper- 
 ature throughout each twenty-four hours by making 
 the night air warmer and the day air cooler. 
 
 If a study is made of atmospheric and soil condi- 
 tions we need not have so much of mildew or weak- 
 ened plants. Only the sharp contrast in temper- 
 ature between day and night prevents us from hav- 
 ing perfect roses. Too many think that mildew and 
 similar troubles are due to the winter's rains, but 
 they are just as prevalent and destructive in the gar- 
 den at present as during the rainy season. Then, 
 too, England, a country of fog and drizzle, grows the 
 finest roses in the world, and the "web-foot" Ore- 
 gonians produce the finest on the Pacific Coast, so 
 that mere rain supply would appear to be an ad- 
 vantage rather than a detriment. 
 
 SOWING AND PLANTING 
 
 Sow stock for early winter flowers and start euca- 
 lyptus and cypress from seed for winter planting. 
 Seeds of many annuals and perennials may be 
 planted if your gardening is late: Carnation, cos-
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 183 
 
 mos, coreopsis, candytuft, cineraria, centaurea, digi- 
 talis, daisy, forget-me-not, gaillardia, marigold, 
 phlox, petunia, poppy and salpiglossis. 
 
 This is the last month in which the bulbs of canna, 
 dahlia and gladiolus should be planted; also plant: 
 Ageratum, balsam, carnation, cosmos, centaurea, 
 coreopsis, celosia, daisy, hollyhock, snapdragon, vio- 
 let and zinnia. Pelargonium can be started from cut- 
 tings now and by next spring will produce strong, 
 bushy plants. It is still time to start late flowering 
 chrysanthemum. Cuttings can be put in from now 
 till the middle of July, and they will produce good 
 flowers. 
 
 SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS 
 
 Small greenhouses in which you are growing ferns, 
 begonias and that class of plants should have a 
 heavy shading on the glass, and the houses should 
 be sprayed every morning in bright weather, and on 
 very hot days the woodwork, paths and all absorbent 
 surfaces sprayed two or three times a day to keep 
 down the temperature, for the nearer you can keep 
 the temperature of your greenhouses to 70 degrees 
 the better your plants will do. 
 
 Late sweet peas, in cool and coastal sections, are 
 now in full bloom and the flowers should be picked 
 off, for the forming of one seed pod exhausts the 
 plant more than the production of a hundred flowers. 
 Mulch the roots with stable litter or clippings from 
 the lawn and spray the foliage at least once a day. 
 The spraying should be done in the early morn- 
 ing. Do all your watering in the morning 
 and never spray your plants after noon for they will 
 not dry off before night, and this may cause mildew. 
 
 Many rose bushes have had one crop of flowers, 
 and the long barren flower stems are sucking up
 
 184 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 the plant's vitality at the expense of new flowering 
 shoots that are starting vigorously from various 
 parts. Cut off these bygone stems, as they interfere 
 with food, light and air necessary for the small crop 
 of good blossoms you should yet garner. Soon rest- 
 ing time will come for roses and you should hasten 
 the maturity of the remaining flower crop as much 
 as possible. If you are troubled with mildew use 
 sulphur sprinkled by hand over vines and surface of 
 ground beneath. Do this on a hot day, for it is the 
 fumes only, created by the sun's heat, that destroy 
 the mildew. 
 
 Sulphur used in cool, cloudy weather avails noth- 
 ing, and the fumes rise best from the heated surface 
 of the soil. Therefore, spray the vines or bushes first 
 with water, very lightly, so that sulphur will lodge 
 and stick on the sunny side of the wood, but aim to 
 keep the soil surface from getting so wet that sul- 
 phur will not "fume." Some old country garden- 
 ers put heated bricks beneath rose bushes and sprin- 
 kle sulphur on them ; this is an excellent practice if 
 one cares to take the trouble and does not get the 
 bricks too hot, for sulphur fumes in great volume 
 are injurious to all classes of vegetation. For this 
 reason scatter sulphur very thinly and evenly or 
 foliage in some parts may be damaged on hot days. 
 
 JULY 
 
 As one wanders along the highways and byways 
 during the summer he is oft impressed with the ex- 
 quisite beauty of some plant, shrub or tree in a seem- 
 ingly neglected garden, so perfectly in health and at 
 home that it seems as though specially designed for 
 the place. At this time out should come the notebook 
 and pencil and down should go the name of such 
 plant, for here indeed is the "proof of the pudding."
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 185 
 
 In no other way may you so surely get a list of plants 
 which will endure to the end. 
 
 SOWING AND PLANTING 
 
 You may still sow antirrhinum, Canterbury bell, 
 centaurea, cosmos, lobelia, pansy and stock. Con- 
 tinue sowing eucalyptus and cypress seeds. 
 
 Great care must be paid to the watering, that 
 beds or boxes do not dry out, and if the sun is very 
 hot they may be shaded by stretching a piece of 
 canvas over a wooden framework and placing this 
 over them, a foot or more from the ground, during 
 the hottest part of the day. Gradually remove this 
 covering until the plants are perfectly strong and 
 stocky. They are then ready for transplanting into 
 flats, boxes or pots. 
 
 Carnation, cosmos, coreopsis, candytuft, cen- 
 taurea, daisy, digitalis, forget-me-not, gaillardia, 
 marigold, phlox, petunia, salpiglossis, scabiosa and 
 violet may still be planted. 
 
 SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS 
 
 Those bulbs now in the ripening stage, should be 
 taken up when the tops have died down and placed 
 in boxes of damp sand in a cool place and allowed to 
 cure as the sand dries. Well pulverized earth will 
 do if you have no sand. 
 
 Pelargoniums are now in full bloom. These plants 
 do not require very rich soil and should be kept on 
 the dry side. If kept too wet the foliage will shrivel 
 up, and if given too rich soil they make all foliage 
 and no flowers. The foliage or flowers should never 
 get wet. 
 
 When through watering, do not leave the hose at- 
 tached to the hydrant. Take it off, coil it up and 
 hang on a peg, stub of a tree, limb or something suit-
 
 186 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 able. With such treatment a hose will last at least 
 twice as long as if left lying on the ground full of 
 water. 
 
 Keeping cut flowers for a considerable time is very 
 easy at this season if a little care is taken. Every 
 day or two, in addition to changing the water, cut off 
 a quarter to half an inch of the stem. This removes 
 the portion with the pores closed by congealed sap 
 and allows the water free access to the stem. 
 
 Insect pests are hatching every day and must be 
 combated in every way possible. While some propa- 
 gate on leaf and twig the more voracious sorts are 
 hatched or developed in some stage in the soil, so that 
 frequent and thorough stirring of the surface will 
 destroy many of them and also expose them to the 
 predatory birds and garden toads. 
 
 AUGUST 
 
 During the summer months when many bushes 
 and vines are still covered with bloom there is a dis- 
 position among home gardeners to regard their work 
 as finished and to rest on their laurels, as it were. 
 There is a tendency to neglect the flower garden, to 
 let it take care of itself, and neglect now is more 
 fatal than at any other period. Just a little neglect 
 now means destruction to some of the beautiful 
 plants that cost time and money. 
 
 Neglect now will give the aphis and other insect 
 enemies a chance to get in some very deadly work. 
 Neglect in tying up the long stalks of late gladiolus 
 will cause them to fall during wind storms. Neglect 
 in watering plants of all kinds will cause them to dry 
 up, wither and die, defeating the object for which 
 they were planted. Neglect to use the hoe will give 
 the weeds a chance to grow and crowd out the flow- 
 ers. In short, neglect of any kind will undo much
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 187 
 
 of the good work that was done earlier in the sea- 
 son. 
 
 SOWING AND PLANTING 
 
 This is the best month in the year in which to sow 
 hardy perennials. Most varieties if sown this month 
 will flower the next year. Also sow calceolaria, 
 cineraria, columbine, calendula, Canterbury bell, cos- 
 mos, lobelia, pansy, pink, primula, petunia and ver- 
 bena. Continue growing eucalyptus and cypress 
 seeds. 
 
 Those who have shady beds should grow cinera- 
 rias. The proper directions for sowing and the care 
 of young seedlings will be found upon trade packets. 
 But remember that at every stage of its career the 
 cineraria is a cool weather plant and must not be 
 exposed to full sunshine during the middle of the 
 day. Many of the colors are unknown in other 
 plants and consist of what is known as metallic 
 shades, ranging from white to purple. While excel- 
 lent as a short season autumn bedding plant the 
 cineraria is a good subject for potting, and in either 
 situation requires a loose rich soil and frequent feed- 
 ings of weak liquid manure. It must be carefully 
 protected from plant lice, its greatest enemy. 
 
 You may still plant out: Carnation, cosmos, 
 coreopsis, candytuft, centaurea, digitalis, daisy, 
 gaillardia, marigold, phlox, petunia, salpiglossis, 
 scabiosa and violet. 
 
 SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS 
 
 Don't water roses this or next month at all. Let 
 the soil dry out and rest the plants. 
 
 House plants will dry out fast these long days. 
 Watch them closely and never let the plants get wilt- 
 ing dry. Spray the foliage as often as you can find
 
 188 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 time and you will be rewarded with a stronger and 
 healthier growth. 
 
 Chrysanthemums will assimilate all the water you 
 may give them from now until the last bloom is 
 picked. Until the color of the buds shows also fer- 
 tilize heavily. Neglect at this time with water means 
 failure of the flower crop. 
 
 Dahlias that bloomed early and were cut down will 
 now be coming on for a fall crop of blossoms. Those 
 cut down now, if well watered and fertilized, will 
 yield a splendid show of color in November. Too 
 many of our dahlias bloom in hot weather, and they 
 are by no means a hot weather flower. Flowers in 
 April and May and October and November are by 
 far better than those of midsummer. 
 
 SEPTEMBER 
 
 The month of September may well be regarded as 
 one of the most important in the calendar of garden 
 operations. It is during this period that every owner 
 of a garden should make preparations for the late 
 autumn and winter floral display. 
 
 Do not wait until the planting time is over, and 
 autumn and winter annuals and perennials have 
 come into flower, and you notice them in your neigh- 
 bor's garden, to find out that you want them. Either 
 make your preparations to get them in in proper sea- 
 son or save the money. 
 
 SEED SOWING 
 
 Sow pansy seed this month, and another important 
 winter flowering bedder for putting in at present is 
 stock. Also sow: Columbine, calendula, candytuft 
 and forget-me-not. 
 
 A few cosmos seed sown at this season will give
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 189 
 
 you a fine show of bloom by November and on dwarf 
 plants which require no staking. 
 
 A pinch of mignonette seed sown in September 
 will give you an abundance of fine blooms right 
 through the winter. It is hardy, easily grown and 
 exceedingly fragrant. The best variety to sow is 
 the French variety, Machet. 
 
 This is the month for the first sowing of winter 
 sweet peas, and followed in October by a second one, 
 will give you an abundant succession of cut flowers 
 right up to the time when the late flowered Spencer 
 varieties or those of the grandiflora type begin to 
 produce blossoms. We have no winter and early 
 spring crop of flowers that surpasses the up-to-date 
 strains of sweet peas. 
 
 BULBS 
 
 Commence planting hyacinth, tulip, anemone and 
 other Dutch bulbs toward the end of the month, also 
 amaryllis, calla, freesia and iris. 
 
 This is the time of the year to divide your clumps 
 of German iris. If allowed to stand several seasons 
 the rhizomes become crowded and the blooms subse- 
 quently produced are small and on short stems. 
 
 Make a planting during this month of ranunculus 
 and anemone. There is nothing finer in existence for 
 spring and winter show than these lovely bulbous 
 plants, and they give more satisfactory results than 
 anything of like price in the garden. Anemone put 
 in during the month of September often produces 
 flowers at Christmas. 
 
 Begin at once to prepare beds intended for bulbs. 
 This work should be done several days in advance 
 of the actual planting time. Dig them over thor- 
 oughly and deeply. Incorporate plenty of rotted 
 manure and turn over several times. The majority
 
 190 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 of bulbous plants require a light loamy soil which is 
 well drained. There are few which do well in soils 
 of a heavy nature. 
 
 BEDDING PLANTS 
 
 Prick off calceolaria and primula sown last month, 
 into pots, and continue sowing same for succession. 
 
 Beds which have contained summer annuals, such 
 as asters, etc., may be filled out with stock, Canter- 
 bury bell, centaurea, sweet William, gaillardia, sal- 
 piglossis, columbine, antirrhinum, perennial co- 
 reopsis, foxglove, pentstemon ; all of which are inex- 
 pensive and will provide a bountiful supply of flow- 
 ers both for garden ornamentation and for cutting 
 purposes. 
 
 Dead and dying flower stems, leaves, etc., should 
 be gathered and burned or composted. If allowed to 
 cumber the ground they will all too soon begin to 
 harbor insects, and in the process of decay produce 
 fungous diseases. If one has a place for a compost 
 heap, the leaves and herbaceous material may easily 
 be taken care if. If burned, the ashes may be re- 
 turned to the soil with good profit, as they contain a 
 considerable quantity of potash and still more of 
 lime, both good substances to apply to lawn or gar- 
 den soils. 
 
 AUTUMN LAWNS 
 
 Don't forget that fall lawn planting may be done 
 in September with excellent results. A fallacious 
 idea is somewhat prevalent in California that lawns 
 are best put in during the winter months. When 
 sown at that period there is a natural germination 
 of all weed seeds, which entails a vast amount of 
 labor for their removal. 
 
 Sown at this season blue grass and clover germ-
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 191 
 
 inate rapidly, the former in about eight to ten days 
 and the latter in five to six days. If properly put in, 
 a dense bright green mat will form that will be 
 ready for cutting in six to seven weeks. It should 
 grow so dense that it will choke out in large measure, 
 and prevent the germination of, the crop of winter 
 weeds. In purchasing either blue grass or clover 
 seed insist upon having the highest quality. 
 
 TIMELY PRUNING 
 
 Look over Cherokee rose hedges during this month 
 and should they require pruning do it at once. To 
 delay and prune later is proper with those roses of 
 the noisette type, such as La Marque, Reve d'Or, etc., 
 but is fatal to best results in the spring blooming 
 of the Cherokees. 
 
 During this month cut back, but not too severely, 
 hedges of lantana, heliotrope, geranium, etc. With 
 many plants of this character there is a heavy crop 
 of seed during autumn, which saps their vitality. 
 Trimming them at this period removes the seed and 
 induces a fresh growth of young shoots, which ex- 
 tends their blooming season to the middle of winter. 
 
 OCTOBER 
 
 The month of October should be a busy one in all 
 California gardens, for it stands much in the same 
 relation to us as do April and May in the snow- 
 bound eastern states. Among the flowers it is bulb 
 month. 
 
 The dry, rainless period is nearly over and ere 
 long the first rains of autumn will wake to life every 
 dormant seed, bulb, and plant. Soon the whole 
 country will be clothed with beauteous green and 
 brilliant blossoms. Gardening should be so ordered
 
 192 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 that cultivated crops will harmonize and keep pace 
 with the fullness of vegetative life about us. 
 
 SEED SOWING 
 
 Make a sowing of California poppy and other na- 
 tive seeds during this month, doing it at this time 
 will give them a long growing season and the full 
 advantage of the winter rains. 
 
 It is also just the time to sow hardy annuals and 
 perennials for bedding plants. The list of these is : 
 calendula, Canterbury bell, centaurea, cineraria, 
 coreopsis, columbine, dianthus, forget-me-not, fox- 
 glove, larkspur, lobelia, mignonette, pansy, phlox, 
 salpiglossis, scabiosa, snapdragon, stock, and sweet 
 pea. 
 
 BULBS 
 
 October is the best month for plantings of Spanish 
 iris, cyclamen, freesia, and gladiolus in the early 
 flowering varieties, the Bride, Blushing Bride, and 
 Peachblow. Also plant watsonias, lilies, and all 
 those bulbs that are known to gardeners as Dutch 
 bulbs. These are such as anemones, hyacinths, nar- 
 cissi, ranunculi and tulips. 
 
 In planting any of the latter it will be well to 
 drop a little sharp sand in the hole before filling in 
 with soil. This method will often prevent rot in case 
 the soil is kept too wet. A most important factor 
 of success in the growing of bulbous plants is to 
 have soil in a sweet, friable condition. They are 
 fond of plenty of manure. 
 
 Arrange bulb beds so that you can follow with suc- 
 cessive plantings during November and December. 
 Take for example the matter of planting narcissi, 
 or daffodils as they are more commonly called. By 
 making a first planting now, a second in November 
 and a third as late as the fifteenth of December, you
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 193 
 
 can have a constant succession of blooms from late 
 February up to the first of May. 
 
 Build the beds with ridges at the sides so that they 
 may be watered by flooding. This gives infinitely 
 better results than sprinkling. Once bulbs are 
 planted mulch the surface with one inch to an inch 
 and a half of good fibrous manure; this retards the 
 evaporation and tends to keep the under soil cool 
 and moist. Bulbs in general give much better results 
 when no surface cultivation is resorted to. The 
 mulch referred to eliminates the necessity of culti- 
 vation. It prevents the ground from either cracking, 
 which is the case in soils of a heavy nature, or from 
 drying out in those of a lighter character. 
 
 HERBS, SHRUBS AND TREES 
 
 Plant out in permanent place in the garden : Calen- 
 dula, cineraria, columbine, lobelia, pansy, pink, pri- 
 mula, petunia, and verbena. 
 
 October is the time for planting evergreen shrubs 
 and trees, and conifers of all sorts handle well at this 
 season. The soft summer growths are now hardened 
 up and the operation of transplanting may be done 
 without endangering the life of the plant. 
 
 The mild days, with the cool nights and mornings 
 of a California autumn, cause but little evaporation 
 of sap from the foliage; the new feeder roots put 
 forth at once, and with the advent of winter rains 
 new growths of stem and foliage spring forth with 
 surprising rapidity. The moving at this season 
 gives a well established tree or shrub in a short space 
 of time. 
 
 One of the most important matters for immediate 
 consideration is attention to roses. The fall growths 
 begin to push out during this month and it is time to 
 prune out all the thin straggly growth, leaving the
 
 194 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 plump, well-ripened can'es which have plenty of 
 healthy eyes of the previous spring's growth. If you 
 are pruning dormant wood from rose bushes at 
 present you had best make cuttings from it. 
 
 All the best roses are borne on the new quick 
 growing canes which spring from the base of the 
 plant or from the well ripened eyes a little higher up. 
 Mulch the beds with two or three inches of any well 
 rotted manure after pruning. Then flood with water 
 either by means of basins around the plant or by 
 trenches along the sides. Don't sprinkle your plants 
 overhead and expect results. Put the water where 
 it belongs, at the roots, and you will have good flow- 
 ers if you did not force them to grow during the last 
 two months. 
 
 SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS 
 
 Many common garden plants may easily be propa- 
 gated in a box of sand at this time of the year. 
 Among these are: begonia, coleus, fuchsia, helio- 
 trope, marguerite, etc. If left sixty days later it 
 would be impossible to root them except in a green- 
 house. 
 
 For a dry, hot place plant some of the old-fash- 
 ioned lavender. It will grow and bloom without 
 water during our California summers and is very 
 useful for filling sachets or placing in bureau draw- 
 ers, not alone for the perfume but to keep away 
 moths and other insects. 
 
 Just as summer is closing is a good time to take 
 note of trees, shrubs and plants that have withstood 
 the hard conditions of summer. Some valuable ob- 
 ject lessons may be found in every community that 
 should prove a guide in the selection of next season's 
 planting list. It is not sufficient to take mental note 
 of these points a notebook for the purpose should 
 be carried. October is a good time for lawn making.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 195 
 
 NOVEMBER 
 
 Village improvement societies are now on the alert 
 regarding time, material and manner of planting 
 school grounds, public squares, parks and streets. 
 Now is a good time for all preliminary work, for soil 
 is easily worked. Even municipalities, as well as 
 lesser communities, evince unusual activity just at 
 this season, for it seems that with the coming of the 
 rains all the earth must be gay made spick and 
 span the natural season for festivity in California. 
 
 SEED SOWING 
 
 The following seeds should be sown now for a 
 good crop of spring flowers; antirrhinum or snap- 
 dragon, clarkia, candytuft, eschscholtzia, or Califor- 
 nia poppy, Shirley poppy, and poppies in variety ; ten 
 weeks stock, larkspur, leptosyne, Gypsophila elegans, 
 pansy, saponaria, lychnis or viscaria, Virginia stock, 
 centaurea imperialis, C. Emperor William, calen- 
 dula or pot marigold, Prince of Orange and Meteor. 
 
 It is a very good time to sow sweet peas now. It 
 brings them into bloom just when they produce the 
 largest and best flowers. It will pay to spade up the 
 ground just as deeply as possible, even to two feet. 
 Dig in a liberal supply of well-rotted manure, and 
 work the soil over until in a friable condition before 
 sowing. This gives not only a good depth of soil, but 
 that good drainage which is so necessary to the suc- 
 cessful growth of first class sweet peas. Keep them 
 free from weeds and the surface well loosened at all 
 times. 
 
 BULBS 
 
 At no other season of the year may so many bulbs 
 be planted with both pleasure and profit as the few 
 weeks from now until New Year's Day. This is
 
 196 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 peculiarly the time for what is known as Dutch 
 bulbs, and so strongly do they manifest their desire 
 to grow that they will put forth leaves even in the 
 dry air of the living-room if laid upon the bare table. 
 Planted in almost any soil, they rapidly spring into 
 life and soon give fine heads or sprays of flowers. 
 
 Anemone, freesia, early-flowering gladiolus, hya- 
 cinth, iris, ixia, jonquil, lily, montbretia, narcissus, 
 ornithogalum, ranunculus, sparaxis and tulip are 
 some of the most popular bulbs to plant now, and all 
 may be obtained at any seed store and also of some 
 of the florists and nurserymen. Do not plant your 
 ranunculus or anemone upside down ; plant ranuncu- 
 lus with the claws down and the anemone with the 
 smoothest side down. This is more easily distin- 
 guished after they have been soaked two hours. 
 
 TIMELY PROPAGATION 
 
 At this time you should take cuttings of soft wood 
 and tender herbaceous plants such as : alternanthera, 
 begonia, coleus, fuchsia, heliotrope, Impatiens sul- 
 tani, marguerite, etc. Bottom heat is not needed 
 though better results can be obtained with such a 
 convenience. 
 
 Get a box of clean sharp sand, see that the drain- 
 age is perfect plenty of holes in the bottom, wet 
 the sand down thoroughly, put your cuttings in a slit 
 made with a knife or thin paddle, press sand around 
 cuttings and wet down. Watch them closely and 
 don't allow them to dry. 
 
 SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS 
 
 Cut back pentstemons this month to within eight 
 inches of the ground and they will come up stronger 
 and bloom better next year. 
 
 Violets will shortly be at their best, and the time
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 197 
 
 to fertilize for blooms is now. Give the beds a liberal 
 mulch of manure and see that they get plenty of 
 water without overdoing it. The rains should relieve 
 you of this from now on. 
 
 Nearly all hardy perennial flowering plants do 
 well if put in at this season. By planting now they 
 receive the benefit of the winter rains, start new root 
 action, produce an abundance of bloom in spring, and 
 become thoroughly established, thus enabling them 
 to better withstand the heat of summer. 
 
 We are now at the secondary period of bulb plant- 
 ing, the most important operation of all fall garden 
 work. With seasonable weather at hand this work 
 should be prosecuted with vigor if you expect to ob- 
 tain a full return in a wealth of flowers from the 
 spring garden. We advise the thorough preparation 
 of the soil; dig the ground deeply and thoroughly, 
 incorporating a plentiful supply of well rotted man- 
 ure. The better the tilth of the soil, the more satis- 
 factory will be the results. 
 
 THE ROSE GARDEN 
 
 Now is the time to attend to roses if heretofore 
 neglected. Where the bushes have been dried off 
 during the summer, for winter flowers all the weak 
 wood should be cut away and the stronger branches 
 cut back heavily, as this treatment will induce 
 longer stems and a better quality of flowers. Such 
 roses should then be watered thoroughly. 
 
 Should the bushes be expected to produce a crop 
 of bloom, both for winter and spring, it will be found 
 best to cut away only the weak wood entirely, and 
 the stronger growth just enough to balance the plant 
 nicely, and then prune more heavily the latter part 
 of February. Proper treatment necessarily varies,
 
 198 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 according to the harshness of winter in your section 
 of the state. 
 
 Give the soil a good dressing of well rotted manure 
 and spade under a few inches only, for if spaded too 
 deeply the roots are liable to be injured, and the 
 bushes will need all the root action possible to de- 
 velop first-class flowers. A deeper spading may be 
 given in the spring. 
 
 DECEMBER 
 
 There is no time like the present to give the garden 
 a general overhauling, to attend to the manuring 
 and spading up of all vacant beds and borders. 
 After spading leave the ground in a rough state, 
 that is, don't rake it down, as the sun and air will 
 do more good, and it will leave the ground in a more 
 friable condition than if raked down too smooth. 
 Don't be afraid to enrich abundantly, as the ground 
 will be in better condition for spring planting. 
 
 SEED SOWING 
 
 Now is the time to plant sweet peas. With proper 
 cultivation there is nothing that yields such a boun- 
 teous harvest as sweet peas, and a sowing of sca- 
 biosa made at this period will give a splendid display 
 of bloom in early spring. 
 
 Seeds of all garden annuals of hardy sorts may 
 safely be sown now, and sweet peas are always on 
 the autumn and winter planting list. Specific sorts 
 for planting in the general garden now are arctotis, 
 dianthus, phlox, salvia and all the "old-fashioned" 
 garden inmates known to eastern gardens. 
 
 Among other seeds that can be planted during De- 
 cember, the plants of which will give you a fine dis- 
 play of spring blossoms, are sweet alyssum, calen- 
 dula, winter marigold, California poppy, baby blue-
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 199 
 
 eye, candytuft, of which Emperor and hyacinth- 
 flowered are the two best strains, forget-me-not, 
 larkspur, in the annual sorts, mignonette, pansy, 
 salpiglossis, snapdragon, stock, annual calliopsis, 
 foxglove, and verbena. 
 
 BULBS 
 
 If you would have a display of blooms from bulb- 
 ous plants, now is the time to act. December is the 
 last call for bulbs. If space is limited and you would 
 like to make use of the ground for spring blooms, 
 all dormant bulbs, dahlia, for example, should now 
 be taken up and stored in a cool, dry place until 
 March or April. 
 
 The anemone, narcissus, or daffodil, single and 
 double, in shades of orange, yellow and white, the 
 Dutch hyacinth, tulip, Spanish iris, early and late 
 flowering gladiolus, lily, Roman hyacinth, ixia, ra- 
 nunculus, sparaxis, freesia, ornithogalum (Star of 
 Bethlehem), cyclamen, montbretia, and German iris 
 should all be planted immediately. 
 
 GENERAL PLANTING 
 
 Now is the time to plant roses. Planted now they 
 will be forming new roots, the tops will be dormant, 
 but with pulsing spring the buds will swell and soon 
 make a growth that will produce blooms to fill the 
 garden with fragrance and beauty. All hardy peren- 
 nials, vines, ornamental deciduous trees and shrubs, 
 as well as hardy evergreen shrubs and trees and 
 conifers, may be planted. 
 
 If you have not yet planted pansies, prepare a bed 
 of rich, light, well-pulverized soil in a warm, sunny 
 place so that you may have pansy blossoms in spring 
 and early summer. Now is a good time to stir all 
 soil whether for immediate use or otherwise. Turn
 
 200 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 it up and allow it to get thoroughly aired and sunned ; 
 after a time level it down, and when beaten solid by 
 rains, spade up deeply again. If fertilizer is put in 
 at the first spading, a well-mixed, resourceful soil 
 will be the result. 
 
 SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS 
 
 Chrysanthemums may be taken up and tempo- 
 rarily planted in some waste piece of ground. Then 
 dig up the ground, enrich with well rotted manure, 
 and you are ready to make a planting. 
 
 Do not be snipping off the ends of branches on 
 deciduous shrubs that are now dormant or becoming 
 so, or you will rob the plants of the best of their 
 spring's crop of bloom; they should be pruned only 
 immediately after flowering. Neither prune any 
 plant or vine that is very tender, for the frost may 
 do it for you, and the growth so injured may protect 
 the balance of the plant from injury or death during 
 a very cold spell. 
 
 Now is the time when all clumps of cannas, caladi- 
 ums, etc., should be taken up and stored in a cool, 
 dry place. Late March or early April will be early 
 enough for replanting. While it is not necessary to 
 remove them no advantage accrues from leaving 
 them in the soil, and if old masses of roots are left 
 for years, they do not thrive as well as if divided. 
 It is also advisable, if their room is more desirable 
 than their presence, to so store clumps of golden- 
 rod, golden glow and other vigorous, free-rooting 
 perennials. 
 
 Do not fertilize lawns. The great disadvantage of 
 fertilizing too early is to force a nice green growth 
 at the time we are expecting our cold weather and 
 the consequence is it makes a spurt, and when it 
 should look nice in early spring it stops growing and
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 201 
 
 looks brown. It has been forced from its natural 
 resting time, the tender growth is frozen, and it 
 takes its rest toward spring when the fertilizer has 
 exhausted its forcing qualities. February and March 
 will be found the best time to manure lawns, and 
 from that time there will be a luxuriant growth until 
 winter.
 
 GLOSSARY 
 
 The following list of scientific names, with definitions, embraces 
 all those In more common use. The definitions are not all literal but 
 the meaning as applied to plants. 
 
 A, at the beginning of words of Greek derivation, commonly signi- 
 fies a negative : as aptera = wingless ; from a, without, and ptera, wing ; 
 acaulis, a, without, caulls, stem=stemless. 
 
 acantha, spine. 
 
 brachy, short. 
 
 acaulis, stemless. 
 
 brevifolia, short-leaved. 
 
 acicularis, sickleshaped. 
 
 bulbifera, bulb-bearing. 
 
 aculeata, spiny. 
 
 
 acuminata, taper-pointed. 
 
 caespitosa, many-headed. 
 
 acuta, sharp-pointed, 
 adeno, glandular. 
 
 calycina, cup-shaped, 
 campanulata, bell-shaped. 
 
 afflne, related. 
 
 Canariensis, Canary Islands. 
 
 alata, winged. 
 
 Candida, white. 
 
 alba, white. 
 
 canescens, hoary. 
 
 alblcans, whitish, 
 albo-lineata, whitellned. 
 
 Capensis, Cape of Good Hope, 
 capillaris, hair-bearing. 
 
 alnifolia, alder-leaved. 
 
 capitata, headed. 
 
 alpestre, alpine, rocky. 
 
 cardinalls, cardinal-red. 
 
 amabiiis, lovely. 
 
 carnea, flesh-colored. 
 
 amoena, pleasing. 
 
 carpa, fruit. 
 
 amorpha, formless. 
 
 caudata, tailed. 
 
 ampla, large. 
 
 cerifera, wax-bearing. 
 
 angusta, narrow, 
 aptera, wingless. 
 
 chlorophylla, green-leaved. 
 ' chrysantha, yellow flowered. 
 
 aquatica, water-loving. 
 
 clliaris, hair-fringed. 
 
 aquifolla, holly-leaved, 
 arborescens, tree-like. 
 
 clliata, silky-haired, 
 clnerea, ash-colored. 
 
 arenaria, sand-loving. 
 
 circinata, rolled upwards. 
 
 argentea, silvery. 
 
 cltrina, lemon-yellow. 
 
 argyrea, silvery. 
 arista ta, awned. bearded. 
 
 citrlodora, lemon-scented, 
 clavatus, club-shaped. 
 
 armata, armed. 
 
 coccifera, berry-bearing. 
 
 articulata, jointed. 
 
 coccinea, scarlet. 
 
 aspera, rough. 
 
 coerulea, blue. 
 
 Atlantlca, Atlantic. 
 
 colllna, hill. 
 
 atrosanguinea, dark-red. 
 
 communls, common. 
 
 atrovirens, dark-green. 
 
 concolor, one-color. 
 
 attenuata, thin. 
 
 conferta, dense. 
 
 aurantiaca, orange-colored. 
 
 congesta, close-headed. 
 
 aurea, golden. 
 
 contorta, twisted. 
 
 auriculata, eared. 
 
 cordata, heart-shaped. 
 
 aurita, eared. 
 
 corlacea, leathery. 
 
 australis, southern. 
 
 cornlgera, horn-bearing. 
 
 azurea, blue. 
 
 cornuta, horned. 
 
 
 coronata, crowned. 
 
 baccata, berry-like. 
 
 crassifolia, thick-leaved. 
 
 baclllarls, rod-like. 
 
 crenata, scallop-edged. 
 
 barbata, barbed. 
 
 cretacea, chalked. 
 
 bella, charming. 
 
 Cretan, Island of Crete. 
 
 blcolor, two-colored. 
 
 Cretlca, Island of Crete. 
 
 blflda, two-cleft. 
 
 crlspa, curled. 
 
 blflora, two-flowered. 
 
 crlstata, crested. 
 
 blfurcata, two-forked. 
 
 cucullata, hooded. 
 
 blplnnata, twice-pinnate. 
 
 cuneata, wedge-shaped.
 
 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 203 
 
 cupressina, cypress-like, 
 cyanea, blue. 
 
 dealbata, powdery. 
 
 deca-, ten. 
 
 decandra, ten-stemmed. 
 
 decipiens, deceiving. 
 
 decora, comely. 
 
 decurrens, prolonged on stem. 
 
 decussata, opposing pairs. 
 
 def lexa, bending. 
 
 demissa, low. 
 
 denticulata, toothed. 
 
 dependens, hanging. 
 
 digitata, fingered. 
 
 discolor, various-colored. 
 
 disticha, two-ranked. 
 
 divaricata, straggling. 
 
 dulcis, sweet. 
 
 dumosa, bushy. 
 
 eburnea, ivory-like, 
 echlnata, hedge-hog-like, 
 edulis, edible, 
 elata, tall, 
 elongata. trailing, 
 emarginata, notched at tip. 
 ericoides, heath-like, 
 eriocarpa, wooly-fruited. 
 esculenta. edible, 
 exaltata, high, 
 excelsa, tall, 
 eximea, excellent. 
 
 falcata, sickle-shaped. 
 
 farinosa, mealy. 
 
 fasciculata, close-clustered. 
 
 fastigiata, parallel and upright. 
 
 ferox, fierce. 
 
 ferruginea, rusty. 
 
 ficifolia, fig-leaved. 
 
 filamentosa, thready. 
 
 filtfera, thread-bearing. 
 
 flmbriata, fringed. 
 
 flabella, fan-shaped. 
 
 flagella, whip-shaped. 
 
 flammea. flery. 
 
 flava, yellow. 
 
 flexuosa, waved ziz-zaggly. 
 
 flore-plena, double-flowered. 
 
 florlbunda, free-flowering. 
 
 florida, florid. 
 
 foetida, stinking. 
 
 folia, foliage. 
 
 foliosa, leafy. 
 
 formosa, beautiful. 
 
 fragrans, fragrant. 
 
 frigida, stiff, frosty. 
 
 fruticosa, shrubby. 
 
 fulgens, glowing, brilliant. 
 
 funebris, funereal, dismal. 
 
 genus, rank above species, 
 gigas, giant. 
 glabra. smooth, 
 gladlata, sword-like. 
 
 glauca, milky-white, 
 glutinosa, sticky, 
 gracile, slender, 
 gracillima, graceful, 
 graminea, grass-like, 
 grandis, splendid, great, 
 graveolens, strong-smelling, 
 guttata, spotted. 
 
 hastata, spear-shaped. 
 
 hederacea, ivy-like. 
 
 hepta, seven. 
 
 herbacea, herb-like, herbaceov 
 
 heterophylla, variable-leaved. 
 
 hexa, six. 
 
 hirsuta, hairy. 
 
 hirta, hairy. 
 
 hispida, hairy. 
 
 hortensis, garden. 
 
 humilis, dwarf. 
 
 hystrix, bristly. 
 
 -ifera, bearing, 
 ignea, fiery, 
 ilicifolia, holly-leaved, 
 imbricata, overlapping. 
 Incisa, deeply-cut. 
 Indica, Indian, 
 indigenous, native, 
 indivisa, undivided, simple, 
 inermis, unarmed, 
 integrifolia, entire-leaved. 
 
 juncea, rush-like. 
 
 labiata, lipped, 
 laciniata, deeply-cut, 
 lacta, milky. 
 
 laevigata, smooth-stemmed. 
 lanata, wooly. 
 lanceolata, lance-shaped, 
 lasiocarpa, wooly-fruited. 
 latifolia, broad-leaved, 
 laurifolia, laurel-leaved, 
 laxa, loose. 
 
 leucorrhiza, white-rooted, 
 leucoxylon, white-wooded, 
 lignosus, woody, 
 linearis, narrow-leaved, 
 lineata, lined, 
 lingua, tongued. 
 linifolia, flax-leaved, 
 lobata, lobed. 
 longifolia, long-leaved, 
 longipes, long-stalked, 
 lophanta, crested, 
 luclda, shiny, 
 lunata, crescent-shaped. 
 Lusitanica, Portugal. 
 
 macro, large. 
 
 macrophylla, large-leaved, 
 maculata, spotted, 
 majalis, May. 
 major, greater, 
 majus, large, 
 marmora, marbled.
 
 204 
 
 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 maxima, largest. 
 
 media, middle. 
 
 mega, large. 
 
 megarhiza, large-rooted. 
 
 melan, black. 
 
 micro, small. 
 
 microphylla, small-leaved. 
 
 miniata, vermillion. 
 
 minor, less. 
 
 mlrabilis, wonderful. 
 
 mltis, small. 
 
 molle, soft. 
 
 mollissima, soft. 
 
 mono-, one. 
 
 monophylla, one-leaved. 
 
 montana. mountain. 
 
 moschata, musky. 
 
 multl-, many. 
 
 multiflora, many-flowered. 
 
 muricata, short, hard pointed. 
 
 mutabilis, changeable. 
 
 myrio, many. 
 
 myriophylla, many-leaves. 
 
 myrtifolia, myrtle-leaved. 
 
 nana, dwarf, 
 nemorale, wood, 
 neriifolia, oleander-leaved, 
 nervata, veined, 
 nigra, black, 
 nitida, shining, 
 nivea, snowy, 
 nodiflora, knot-flowered, 
 nodosa, knotty, knobby, 
 nucifera, nut-bearing, 
 nuda, naked, 
 nutans, nodding. 
 
 ob-, signifies inversion. 
 
 obcordata, heart-shaped apex. 
 
 obovata, broad end outward. 
 
 obtusa, blunt 
 
 occidentalis, western. 
 
 ocellata, eyed. 
 
 ochra-leuca, yellowish-white. 
 
 octo-, eight. 
 
 odorata, sweet-scented. 
 
 -oides, like, similar. 
 
 orlentalis, eastern. 
 
 ornata, adorned. 
 
 ovata, egg-shaped. 
 
 oxygona, sharp-angled. 
 
 -oxylon, wood. 
 
 oxypetala, sharp-petalled. 
 
 pallida, pale, 
 palustre, marsh, 
 paniculata, panicled. 
 papyrlfera, paper-bearing, 
 parviflora, small-flowered, 
 patens, spreading. 
 paucltlora, few-flowered, 
 pectinata, comb-like, 
 pedata, bird-footed, 
 peltata, stem in center, 
 pendula, drooping. 
 
 penta, five. 
 
 pentaphylla. flve-leaved. 
 Persica, Persia, 
 phylla, leaf, 
 picta, painted, 
 pinnata, divided, 
 platyphylla. broad-leaved, 
 plumosa. feathery, 
 podophylla, foot-leaved, 
 poly-, many. 
 
 polypodium, many-footed, 
 populifolia, poplar-leaved, 
 primullna, primrose-yellow, 
 princeps, princely, 
 procumbens, trailing, 
 prulnata, frosted, 
 pseudo, false, like, 
 pubescens, downy, 
 pudica, chaste. 
 
 pugiouiformis, dagger-shaped, 
 pulchella, pretty, 
 pulchra, beautiful, 
 pulverulenta, powdery, 
 pumila, small, 
 punlcea, reddish, 
 pusilla, diminutive, 
 pygmea, dwarf. 
 
 quadrl-, four, 
 quinata, in fives, 
 quinquifolia, flve-lobed. 
 
 racemosa, racemed. 
 radiata, radiating, 
 radicans, rooting, 
 ramosa, branched, 
 ramosissima, much-branched, 
 reclinata, curved downwards, 
 reniforme, kidney-shaped, 
 repens, creeping, 
 reticulata, netted, 
 revoluta, rolled back, 
 rhododendron, rose-tree, 
 rhombifolia, diamond-leaved, 
 ringens, gaping open, 
 riparia, river-bank, 
 rosea, rosy, 
 rostrata. beaked, 
 rotundifolia, round-leaved, 
 rubens, reddish, 
 rubra, red. 
 rugosa, wrinkled. 
 
 salicifolia, willow-leaved, 
 sanguinea, blood-colored, 
 sarmentosa. flexible-twiggy, 
 sativa. cultivated, 
 saxitile, rock, 
 scabra, rough, 
 scandens, climbing, 
 scoparia. broom-like, 
 semi-, half. 
 
 semper, ever. always, 
 semper-aurea, ever-golden, 
 eemperflorens, ever-flowering, 
 sempervirens, evergreen.
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 205 
 
 senile, white-haired. triangulare, three-angled. 
 
 serotlna, late. tricolor, three-colored. 
 
 serrata, saw-leaved. trlfida, three-cleft. 
 
 serrulata, saw-leaved. trlflora, three-flowered. 
 
 sessile, stemless. trlloba, three-lobed. 
 
 siliqua, bearing long pods. truncata, square-cut tip. 
 
 Slnensis, Chinese. 
 
 sparsa, few. ulmlfolia, elm-leaved. 
 
 species, rank below genus. umbraculifera, umbrella-bearing. 
 
 speciosa, showy. undulata. wavy. 
 
 spectabilis, showy. uni-, one. 
 
 spicata, spiked. uniflora, one-flowered. 
 
 spiralis, spiral. urticlfolla, nettle-leaved. 
 
 stellata, star-like. 
 
 strlata, striped. variety, rank below species. 
 
 stricta, upright. velutina, velvety. 
 
 suaveolens, sweet-scented. venosa. veined. 
 
 subulata, awl-shaped. ventrlcosa, inflated. 
 
 sulphurea, sulphur-yellow. venusta, lovely. 
 
 sylvatica, of woods. vera, true. 
 
 sylvestris, of woods. verslcolor, various-colored. 
 
 verticillata, whorled. 
 
 tenella, delicate, small. vesca, edible, 
 
 tenuifolia, narrow-leaved. vestita, clothed, 
 
 tenuis, slender. viminea, slender-twiggy, 
 
 tetra-, four. violacea, violet, 
 
 tetrandra, four-stemmed. virens, green, 
 
 tigrinum, striped. viridiflora, green-flowered, 
 
 tlnctoria, dyer's. viscosa, clammy, 
 
 tomentosa, downy. vitella, yellowish, 
 
 torulosa, twisted. vittata, striped, 
 
 toxica, poison. vivipara, plant-bearing, 
 
 toxifera, poison-bearing. volubilis, twining, 
 
 tri,- three. vulgaris, common.
 
 INDEX 
 
 Aberla 51 
 
 Acacia 38, 39, 54 
 
 Achras 52 
 
 Akebia 58 
 
 Albizzia 39, 48 
 
 Althea 54,56 
 
 Ampelopsls 62 
 
 Annuals, general 71 
 
 native 72, 73 
 
 exotic and garden 74, 78 
 
 Anona 51 
 
 Antlgonon 62 
 
 Ants 153, 155, 158 
 
 Aphis 155, 156, 160 
 
 Aquariums 92 
 
 Araucarla 42 
 
 Arbor (lllus.) 9 
 
 Arbor-vitae 42, 43 
 
 Arlstolochla 62 
 
 Ash 48,54,55 
 
 Asparagus 58 
 
 pink 48 
 
 Avocado 51 
 
 Backgrounds for gardens 21 
 
 Bacteria for clover 29 
 
 Bamboo 49, 50 
 
 Barberry 56 
 
 Beaumontla 58 
 
 Bedding Plants 190 
 
 Beefwood 39, 53 
 
 Begonias 106 
 
 Bermuda Grass 33 
 
 Big Tree 40 
 
 Bignonia 58 
 
 Blue Grass 28 
 
 Borders, house 84 
 
 Bottle Brush 54, 55 
 
 Bougalnvillea 58 
 
 Box Elder 48 
 
 Bridal Wreath 56 
 
 Broussonetla 48 
 
 Bulbs, general 109 
 
 Dutch or Holland 120, 121 
 
 fertilizers for 121, 122 
 
 see garden calendar 161 
 
 Bunya-bunya 42 
 
 Cactus 68,69 
 
 Calendar, garden 161-201 
 
 Canna 80 
 
 Cape Chestnut 39 
 
 Carlssa 51 
 
 Carnations 81, 83, 167, 181 
 
 Carob Tree 39, 55 
 
 Casimlroa 51 
 
 Casuarina 39, 53 
 
 Caterpillars 168 
 
 Cedar, true 43, 54 
 
 incense 41, 46 
 
 white 43 
 
 red 43, 54, 55 
 
 Port Orford 45 
 
 Japan 46, 54 
 
 Ceratonla 39, 55 
 
 Cherimoya 51 
 
 Chestnut, true 48 
 
 cape 39 
 
 Chrysanthemum 143 
 
 propagation 143, 172, 173 
 
 planting 146, 181 
 
 training 146 
 
 staking 147 
 
 fertilizing 148 
 
 disbudding 148 
 
 kinds of buds 149 
 
 pot culture 150 
 
 sorts to grow 151 
 
 history 151 
 
 Clover, for lawns 27, 29 
 
 Coffee Tree 54 
 
 Conifers 39-46 
 
 Cotoneaster 56 
 
 Cottonwood 48, 53, 55 
 
 Cryptomerla 46 
 
 Custard Apple 51 
 
 Cypress 44, 45, 55 
 
 Cytlsus 55 
 
 Dahlias 112, 114 
 
 Deciduous Trees 47, 48, 169 
 
 Deutzia 56 
 
 Dogwood 56 
 
 Dollchos 59 
 
 Dracena 49 
 
 Elm 48 
 
 Eucalyptus 39, 52-54 
 
 hardy 52, 53 
 
 Eugenia 51 
 
 Evergreen Trees 38-47 
 
 Evonymus, shrubby 54 
 
 climbing 59 
 
 Peijoa 52 
 
 Fences, hedges, walls 18 
 
 Ferns, house 101, 104 
 
 Fertilizers, general (lllus.)... 25 
 
 lawn 24,25,34,165 
 
 for roses 134, 135 
 
 mixing 25 
 
 Incompatibility of 25 
 
 Flcus macrophylla 39 
 
 pumlla (repens) 59 
 
 Flowers, cut 108 
 
 Fog-fruit 30
 
 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 207 
 
 Fuchsia 79, 80 
 
 Garden Calendar 161-201 
 
 Gardening, landscape 11 
 
 styles of 11 
 
 Garden Seat (illus.) 9 
 
 Gardens, formal 19 
 
 wild 67, 68, 83, 84 
 
 cactus 68, 69 
 
 wall 69, 70 
 
 rose 123, 197 
 
 Genista 55 
 
 Geraniums 79, 84 
 
 Ginkgo 41, 48 
 
 Gladioli 117-119 
 
 Gophers 159 
 
 Gourds 63 
 
 Grading, from house 18 
 
 Grapes, evergreen 62 
 
 Green Fly 155-157, 160 
 
 Grevillea robusta 39 
 
 Guava 52 
 
 Hackberry 48 
 
 Hanging Baskets 99, 101 
 
 Hedges, walls, fences 18 
 
 Hippeastrums 110, 114 
 
 Honeysuckle 60 
 
 Hopvlne 63 
 
 House Plants 95, 101, 108 
 
 potting 96, 97 
 
 ferns 101, 104 
 
 palms 104 
 
 Hydrangea 56 
 
 Iris, general 119, 120 
 
 waterside 94 
 
 Ivies 59 
 
 Jacaranda 39 
 
 Jasmine 60 
 
 Juniper 42, 46, 54 
 
 Kai Apple 51 
 
 Kentucky Blue Grass 28 
 
 Larkspur 80, 81 
 
 Lawns, general 23, 24, 176 
 
 fertilizers for 24, 25, 34, 169 
 
 care of 27 
 
 seed for 27 
 
 grasses for 28 
 
 clover 29 
 
 lippia 30, 32 
 
 weeds in 26,27,33 
 
 witch grass 33 
 
 devil grass 
 Bermuda grass 
 
 dandelions 34 
 
 chickweed 34 
 
 sorrel 34 
 
 lime for 34 
 
 wood ashes 84 
 
 fertilizing 165, 169, 176 
 
 soils for 21,22 
 
 planting season 24 
 
 watering 27 
 
 mowing, when . .' 28 
 
 Leptospermum 55 
 
 Libocedrus 41, 46 
 
 Ligustrum 39 
 
 Lilac 56 
 
 Lilies, garden 115, 116 
 
 water 88,90 
 
 Lippia 30-32 
 
 Locust Tree 53, 55 
 
 Loquat 52 
 
 Lotus, Egyptian 91 
 
 Maidenhair Tree 41, 48 
 
 Mango 51 
 
 Maples 48, 54, 55 
 
 Mesquite 54 
 
 Mildew, on Rose 127,128,159 
 
 Mock Orange 56 
 
 Monkey Puzzle 42 
 
 More ton Bay Fig 39 
 
 Mulberry, true 54 
 
 paper 48 
 
 Myoporum 54 
 
 Nerium . . 
 
 .. 39 
 .. 39 
 
 Oak, cork 
 
 live 39 
 
 caterpillars on 158 
 
 Old-fashioned Flowers 78 
 
 Oleander 39 
 
 Osage Orange 54 
 
 Palms 14, 48, 49, 54 
 
 house 104 
 
 misuse of 12 
 
 Palo Verde 54 
 
 Parasol Tree 48 
 
 Passion vine 60 
 
 Peas, sweet 75, 76 
 
 Pecan ; 43 
 
 Pelargoniums 79 
 
 Pepper Tree 39 
 
 Perennials, herbaceous 76-78 
 
 division of 177 
 
 Pergola (illus.) 20 
 
 Persea 51 
 
 Pests and Diseases 153 
 
 Philadelphus 56 
 
 Phlox, perennial 78, 79 
 
 Pine 40, 41, 42, 45, 55 
 
 Pittosporum 39 
 
 Plane Tree 48, 54 
 
 Planning, general 7, 18 
 
 what to avoid 8 
 
 what to grow 10 
 
 open lawns 12 
 
 massed planting 14 
 
 avoid straight lines 17 
 
 utility plats 19 
 
 back yards 20 
 
 roads and paths 22 
 
 Plans (illus.) 13,15, 16 
 
 Planting Calendar 161, 201 
 
 Plant Lice 155-157
 
 208 
 
 THE GARDEN BEAUTIFUL 
 
 Plants for alkali 81 Solanum 61 
 
 for sandy soils 81 Sollya 61 
 
 Platanus 48 Spindle Tree 54 
 
 Plum, purple-leaved 54 Splrea 56 
 
 Podocarpus 46 Spruce 40 
 
 Poinsettia 54 Squirrels, ground 159 
 
 Pomegranate 54 St. John's Bread 39, 55 
 
 Ponds 87 Sterculla 39, 48 
 
 Poplars 48, 53-55 Sweet Shrub 56 
 
 Poppies, true 74, 75 Sycamore 48, 54 
 
 Privet 39, 54 Syringa 56 
 
 Propagation by cuttings 171 
 
 by division 172 Tacsonia 61 
 
 timely 196 Tamarisk 54, 55 
 
 Terrace Covers 31 
 
 Quercus agrlfolia 39 Thuya 42, 43, 54 
 
 suber 39 Trachycarpus 49 
 
 Quince, flowering 56 Tree of Heaven 54, 55 
 
 Trees, general 35 
 
 Rats 158 splitting forks 56 
 
 Red Spider 157, 158, 160 measuring (illus.) 36 
 
 Redwood 40 planting 37, 168, 169 
 
 Rockeries, building 65 for streets 37, 38 
 
 where to build 66, 67 evergreen 38-40, 168 
 
 Roses, garden 123 coniferous 40-46, 1 98 
 
 gardens 123 deciduous 47, 48, 169 
 
 types of 123, 124 ornamental fruit 21, 50, 51 
 
 mildew on 127, 128, 159 f or deserts 53 
 
 summer treatment 125-127 for alkaline soils 54, 55 
 
 winter treatment 127 see garden calendar 161-201 
 
 soils for 125 citrus 50 
 
 propagation of 128 pruning (illus.) 55 
 
 cuttings of 129 Tulip Tree 48 
 
 budding 130 
 
 budding (illus.) 131 Umbrella Tree 48, 53 
 
 from seeds 132 
 
 pruning 133, 175, 197 Victoria 90 
 
 fertilizers for 134, 175, 198 Vines, deciduous 62, 63 
 
 lists of . . > 136-141 evergreen 58-62 
 
 climbing 139-141 misuse of 64 
 
 history of 141-142 gourds, squashes, etc 63 
 
 red spider on 160 pruning 174, 175 
 
 planting 199 on buildings 57 
 
 heat-resistant 63 
 
 Sapodllla 52 Virginia Creeper 63 
 
 Sapota 51, 52 Vitis 62 
 
 Scale Insects 157, 158 
 
 Schinus molle 39 Walnut 54 
 
 Seed Sowing 161 Water Gardens, general 85 
 
 Sequoia 40 Water Lilies 88, 90 
 
 Shrubs, fruiting 51, 52 soils for 91 
 
 for deserts 54 pests 93, 94 
 
 deciduous 55, 56 Weigelia 56 
 
 see garden calendar 161 Willow 53, 55 
 
 pruning 174 Wire Vine 60 
 
 evergreen 193 Wistaria 63 
 
 spring-flowering 56 Worms, in pots 156 
 
 Silk Oak 39 cut-worms 156-157 
 
 Slugs and Snails 158 
 
 Snowball 56 Yew 46, 47 
 
 Snowberry 56 
 
 Solandra 61 Zapote 52 
 
 3917 'i.,
 
 from which it was borrowed.
 
 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 
 
 A 001 129984 9 
 
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