tpw ^a/zees THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA ^*Y-' BEQUEST OF ANITA D. S. BLAKE CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM Miss Frances Simpson and her Silver Male "Cambyses Gunn &* Stuart, photo, Richmond CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM BY FRANCES SIMPSON WITH TWENTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS NEW YORK FREDERICK A. STOKES COMPANY PUBLISHERS PUBLISHED IN SEPTEMBER, i9 2 GIFT TO THE MANY KIND FRIENDS KNOWN AND UNKNOWN THAT I HAVE MADE IN PUSSYDOM I DEDICATE THIS LITTLE BOOK DURDANS HOUSE, ST. MARGARET'S-ON-THAI 113 PREFACE IT has been suggested to me by many of my "catty" friends that I should write a small handbook for cat fanciers. By arrangement with the Kennel Publishing Company I have been enabled to utilise the paragraphs of Practical Pussyology which have appeared during the last fifteen months in Our Cats. I have had many years' ex- perience with cats and kittens, and have also a real love for them, without which I do not believe any one can be a successful breeder and exhibitor of cats. What is worth doing at all is worth doing well, and to combine profit with pleasure is a most desirable end to have in view. The object, therefore, of this little book is to assist cat lovers to become cat fanciers. I trust that it may be found helpful and instructive. CONTENTS FACE I. BREEDS AND VARIETIES ... * . 17 II. CARE AND MANAGEMENT . * ' 24 PRACTICAL HINTS 3 1 III. BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 53 PRACTICAL HINTS . ... 60 IV. DISEASES AND REMEDIES 77 V. CAT CLUBS AND CAT HOMES . .... 95 VI. MISCELLANEOUS * * . . 107 ILLUSTRATIONS 1. COVER. Design by Mrs. Paul Hardy 2. FRONTISPIECE. Miss Frances Simpson and her Silver male Carabyses FACING PACK 3. GENTIAN. A lovely Blue female, owned by Lady Marcus Beresford, and bred by Mrs. O'Brien Clarke. Her sire was Goliath, a superb cat for size and colour. Gentian was a prize-winner at Westminster in 1899, when her marvellous coat excited general admiration ... 17 4. IMPERIAL BLUE was bred by Rev. P. L. Cosway, his present owner, from Angela and Blue Noble. This youngster has already made a name for himself in the show pen. He was born August soth, 1900, and took prizes at Castleford and Wakefield. At Slough, 1901, he carried off the special for the soundest coloured Blue, and has since gained high distinction at Manchester. Imperial Blue is now placed at stud in our advertisements for the first time 20 5. ROYAL BOBS. This fine Blue male was bred by H.H. Princess Victoria of Schleswig-Holstein from Lady Marcus Beresford's Blue Boy II. and Duschar. He was purchased when a kitten by Mrs. Collingwood, and at his first appearance at the Botanical Gardens, in 1901, he took ist in the Cat and ist in the Kittten Class. Since then he has taken four other ist prizes and two championships, besides many specials. Royal Bobs is a dark Slate Blue, but very sound in colour, with a beautifully shaped head and fine eyes ... 24 6. OTHELLO, as his name denotes, is a Black Persian, and claims such noted cats as Beauty Boy, Lord Albemarle xii ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PACK and Peter Fawe among his ancestors. Mr. Robert Little, who is famed for his breed of beautiful Blacks, is the possessor of Othello, who is not yet a year old. He has done a lot of winning already, both in kitten and adult classes, and bids fair to lead the way in the Black classes at our best shows 28 7. PIQUANTE PEARL was bred by Mrs. Pettit from her well- known White stud cat King of the Pearls and Beautiful Pearl. This lovely female is quite the most beautiful specimen of a long-haired White Persian, having glorious blue eyes with a full coat of finest texture. Piquante Pearl isawinner of numerous istprizes, championships, medals, and specials at the Crystal Palace and Westminster Shows. Some of her lovely kittens have been exported to America 32 8. CHAMPION BACKWELL JOGRAM is the only Smoke cham- pion and the winner of many ist prizes, medals, and specials. At the Crystal Palace Show, 1901, this fine Persian cat won the special offered by the Duchess of Bedford for the best Smoke male in the show. Jogram is owned and was bred by Mrs. H. V. James, who is one of the most enthusiastic breeders of this handsome variety. He has sired many noted winners, and is much in request as a stud cat . 36 9. TEUFEL. Mrs. Sinkins is the breeder and owner of this most beautiful Smoke male, who, although only 18 months, has won many prizes. Good Smokes of his type are few and far between. His colouring is perfect, and his face and head quite free from the tabby markings that so often mar the beauty of this breed. Teufel greatly distinguished himself at the Westminster Show, 1902, where he won the Challenge Cup, Breeders' Cup, ist prize, and numerous specials . . . .40 IO. CHAMPION FULMER ZAIDA is the renowned Silver female owned by Lady Decies. This cat has won more prizes than any other in the Fancy, numbering over 150. Zaida is almost an unmarked specimen, and her colour is wonderfully pure. She has carried off the highest honours at all the leading shows, and will probably continue to win whenever exhibited 44 ILLUSTRATIONS xiii FACING PAGE 11. THE ABSENT-MINDED BEGGAR is a fine Silver by Lord Southampton and Dimity, both well-known cats. He is unusually pale in colour, with beautiful gi;een eyes. Mrs. Nield, of Bowden, now owns the Beggar, who is greatly in request as a sire. His kittens inherit his beautiful qualities of coat and colour .... 48 12. LORD HAMPTON, another Silver, is also an inmate of the Hart Hill Cattery, and was purchased by Mrs. Nield from Mrs. Davies, of Caterham. As a kitten this lovely Silver greatly distinguished himself, taking many prizes. He has a grand-shaped head, but was out of coat when the photo, which we reproduce, was taken. Lord Hampton has sired some splendid kittens ..... 52 13. SILVER STARLIGHT is the property of Miss Snell, of Wimbledon. This Silver male cat is beautifully pure in colour. He distinguished himself at the Crystal Palace, 1900; Brighton, 1900; and at Westminster, 1901, he made a great name for himself by winning the Challenge Cup and numerous special prizes. Amongst his progeny may be mentioned Puck III., a winning kitten, now in the possession of H.H. Princess Victoria of Schleswig-Holstein 56 14. LORD NUGENT is a well-known shaded Silver male belong- ing to Mrs. Ormerod, who is a most successful breeder of Silvers and Smokes. He is the son of Lord Argent. The Silver Lambkin and Lord Southampton are his grandparents. He has taken several ist and 2nd prizes, and sired many noted winners ; amongst others may be mentioned Maritana, the perfect Smoke, purchased by Mr. Cosway. Lord Nugent has a fine head, and is unusually massive in build for a Silver .... 60 15. TORRINGTON SuNNYSiDES. This rich-coloured Orange male is the property of Mrs. Vidal, of Sydenham, and was bred by her. He is by Champion Bundle and Torrington Owlet, and was born in 1899. He has gained many prizes, and at Westminster Show, 1902, he won the Challenge and Breeders' Cup, Silver Medal, and several specials . ..... 64 xiv ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE 16. CHAMPION ROMALDKIRK ADMIRAL, one of Miss Winifred Beal's celebrated Heavenly Twins. This grand Cream stud cat has never been beaten in his class, except by his brother. His prize-winning record is too long for insertion. This cat is in the proud position of being a Champion in the N.C.C. and the C.C., having carried off no less than 14 Championships. Matthew, of The Durhams, a well-known winning Cream, is sired by the twin-brother Midshipmite 68 17. CHAMPION ROYAL YUM YUM is one of the best Tortoiseshell queens in the Fancy. Her colouring is well broken, and she is a beautifully formed cat Miss Kate Sangster, her owner, has won many prizes with her at all the leading shows. Very poor justice can be given to this special breed in a photograph, as the beauty of a Tor- toiseshell chiefly consists in the equal distribution of the three colours 70 18. CHAMPION PERSIMMON is the celebrated Brown Tabby Persian, owned by Miss Frances Simpson. He is perfect in shape, with an immense head, short snub nose, and tiny well-placed ears. He was purchased by his present owner at Brighton Show, 1898. Since then he has won whenever shown, and is now a Champion in both the N.C.C. and C.C. Clubs. He has sired a long list of beautiful brown Tabby prize-winning kittens . 74 19. CHAMPION BALLOCHMYLE BROTHER BUMP. This grand Short-haired Blue (commonly called Russian) is the property of Lady Alexander, and has won a first prize whenever he has appeared in a show pen, and, curiously enough, each time under a different judge. He won the Challenge Cup at Westminster in 1900, and since then three championships at N.C.C. Shows. He is beautiful in colour, has a well-shaped head, and grand orange eyes 20. CHAMPION WANKEE, the noted Siamese, is owned by Mrs. Robinson, of West Kensington, who has always been an enthusiastic and successful breeder of Siamese. He has won over 30 prizes, and sired, among other notable kittens, Beba, Menelik, Sam Sly, and Chaseley Robin, all winners of championships ...... ILLUSTRATIONS xv PACING PAGB 21. TIAM-O'-SHIAN IV. is another Siamese of high repute, the property of Mrs. Vyvyan, who bred him ; but Tiam resides with Mrs. Parker Brough whilst his owner is abroad. He is a magnificent type of Siamese, even in colour, with deep seal] points. He comes from Miss Forestier- Walker's celebrated strain ; and amongst his progeny may be mentioned Champion Eve, Suzanne, and Kitya Hara . 86 22. BRANDON QUEEN CHEETAH is a lovely Brown Tabby short- haired cat, belonging to Mrs. Bernard Wentworth. This puss is well and distinctly marked, and rich in colour. One of her kittens, Brandon Tommykins, took high honours at Westminster Show in 1901 .... 90 23. MANX SILVERWING, a quaintly marked little Silver Tabby, formerly owned by Mr. Foalstone. At the Manchester N.C.C.C. Show she was purchased by Mr. Ward, of Longsight. Silverwing has won many prizes, and calls forth great admiration whenever exhibited . 94 24. PERSIMMON LADDIE, a sable Neuter by Persimmon and Birkdale Fina, is the great pet of Miss Rosamound Whitney, an Irish fancier, who is an enthusiastic admirer of Brown Tabbies. Laddie took highest honours at the Northern Cat Club's Show at Manchester, 1901, and was justly admired for his gorgeous colouring and marvellous coat. Laddie took special for the best Tabby Neuter at Westminster, 1902, and first at Liverpool, 1902 98 25. BONNIE BOY. This promising young Blue is owned by Miss Frances Simpson, and was exhibited by her at the Crystal Palace, 1901, when at four months old he took 2nd prize in a class of 39 kittens, the limit age being eight months. Bonnie Boy was also awarded a special prize for the best orange eyes in the kitten classes. He is from Miss Patterson's celebrated strain of Blue Persians, and his mother is a Black, owned by Mrs. H. B. Thompson. The photo was taken when he was three months old ........ xoa BREEDS AND VARIETIES I DO not intend to discuss the ancient history of cats, or to raise the question as to whether they were amongst the animals who entered the Ark ; nor is it necessary to allude to the Wise Men of the East who worshipped the cat as a deity : I wish rather to confine my remarks to cats as they are known to-day. Of these, then, there are two distinctive breeds, viz., the Long-haired or Persian Cats, and Short- haired or English and Foreign Cats. In both long- and short-haired breeds there are " self- coloured," "broken-coloured" and "any other coloured" varieties. Apart from the length and texture of fur, the points of the animals are practically the same, whether long- or short-haired. They should be cobby in build and short on the legs, the head should be round and broad, eyes large and full, nose short, ears small and wide apart. So much for the general contour of the cat. With the majority of fanciers the long-haired cats are the most popular. I will start with the self-coloured long- haired cats, viz., Black, White, and Blue. I do not think sufficient attention or admiration is given to Black Persians, and very few fanciers have taken up this handsome breed. The Black Class is generally the worst filled at our Shows, and yet a black cat is said to bring luck, and a black cat does not show the dirt ! In the early days of the Fancy, the question of eyes was one left in abeyance, but now we have a special standard for each breed, and blacks must have orange or even amber eyes to find favour B 1 8 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM with the cat critique and judge. Then, again, a white spot at the threat was not formerly considered a very damaging blemish, but nowadays even a few stray white hairs may be a cause of disqualification. At certain times of the year this breed shows signs of lustiness and a brown tinge mars its beauty, but when in full coat the colour should be black as coal with a shining glossiness on the silky fur. A White Persian Cat, with correct blue eyes, in full coat and spotlessly clean, is indeed a " thing of beauty," but let no one try to keep one of this breed unless they live in the country. A white cat soiled is a white cat spoiled, and I have known a famous prize-winner put down by the judge on account of its dirty condition. A peculiarity of this breed is that the cats are frequently deaf. It is also the only breed which sports odd eyes, and in almost every litter of whites one or more of these curious freaks will appear. And now to turn our attention to Blues, that lovely breed which has become so deservedly popular. I exhibited the first pair of Blues at the Crystal Palace many years ago, and ever since we have lived and loved together ! I am now the Hon. Sec. of the Blue Persian Cat Society, with nearly two hundred members. At all the Shows the entries of Blues outnumber all other classes, and there is a greater demand for Blue kittens than for any other colour. When Blues were first started the colour was decidedly darker than at present ; it was a slate blue, but of late years fanciers have been striving to obtain a paler tone. I think, however, that the " happy medium " is the best. In the standard for Blues the largest number of points is given for soundness of colour, and it is most essential that no shadings or markings should appear in these cats, which should be absolutely level in colour throughout. It is only in recent years that fashion and custom have decreed that Blue Per- sians must have orange eyes. Certainly they tone best with the colour of their coat, and greatly enhance the beauty of heir appearance. It is a pity, however, to sacrifice other essential points to this one feature. Judges are sometimes inclined to put down a fine specimen which has every point in its favour except the orange eyes. I advise that, if you possess a grand-shaped, fine-coated Blue with green eyes, BREEDS AND VARIETIES 19 find a mate with deep amber eyes, and keep your green- eyed puss away from Shows ! Blues may be considered a fairly hardy breed of Persian, and they make lovely pets. Smokes are rather a neglected variety, and may be said to be a mixture of the three self-coloured breeds black, white and blue. A perfect Smoke is most difficult to breed, and unfortunately for only a short time during the year do they keep their good looks. When they shed their coats Smokes are often transformed into bad Blacks, and this is disappointing, and specially vexatious to the fanciers who desire to exhibit their cats frequently. The points of the Smokes have been keenly discussed in catty circles and Specialist Clubs. Their coats should be dark cinder-colour, shading to white with a light raff and ear-tufts ; eyes amber. Of late years attempts have been made to cross Smokes with Silvers and Blues, but I consider that Smokes should only be mated with Smokes to keep the correct colour and points. And now for the consideration of Silvers, commonly called Chinchillas, otherwise named Shaded-silvers, and very often labelled " Wrong Class " ! To novices in the Farley this may sound a little mixed, so let me explain. TheSe beautiful cats have been through stormy waters, so to speak. A Specialist Society was started last year for this breed which also included Silver Tabbies and Smokes. The Silvers were subdivided into Self-silvers and Shaded-silvers. As, how- ever, no Self-silver has yet been born or bred, there was naturally a difficulty in filling any class set apart for these particular specimens at the Shows. So the lightest Silvers were considered eligible, and then came the difficulty for ex- hibitor and judge to draw the line between the two varieties, and to decide what degree of paleness constituted a Self- silver (so-called) and what amount of dark markings would relegate the specimen into the Shaded-silver class. Natur- ally it became a Silver puzzle and a Silver muddle. Exhibitors waxed wroth and judges became exasperated. Then the term "Self-silver" was abandoned, but the endeavour to breed a Silver without any shadings or marking is still the height and ambition of many a fancier of this beautiful breed. There is a great fascination about these Silver Persians, but they have been so inbred of late years that great delicacy has 20 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM resulted, and many a tale of woe has reached me concerning the difficulty of rearing Silver kittens. But I feel sure better times are in store for this breed, and certainly Silvers vie with Blues in popularity. The points of a Silver cat may be summed up thus : A pale shade of silver as free from shadings and tabby markings as possible ; eyes green. For some time it was considered that Silvers might have either orange, yellow, or green eyes, but now the highest authorities in the Silver Society incline towards green eyes. I think judges in general give their verdict in favour of this colour, and I am sure they all desire only one class for Silvers and to keep them as distinct as possible from Silver Tabbies ; the one class, namely, Silvers, to be as free from markings as pos- sible, and the Silver Tabbies to have clearly denned black markings on a pure silver ground work. It is these markings that give the distinguishing feature to the beautiful breed of Silver Tabbies. I admire the splashed-type more than the delicately pencilled variety. There are very few really good specimens in the Fancy, and it is a great pity some of our clever breeders do not take up Silver Tabbies and try to pre- vent them from being crossed with nondescript Silvers, thus weakening the markings and damaging the breed. I think it is generally known in the Fancy that I am par- tial to Brown Tabbies, and truly I believe they occupy the warmest corner of my cat-loving heart ; perhaps, because I first started with a Brownie, or possibly because they have been a very looked-down-upon breed. However, as every dog has his day, so I hope a good time is coming for this truly handsome type of cat, so suggestive of a tiger. In build Brown Tabbies ought to be decidedly large and massive. The groundwork should be a rich tawny colour, with dark black markings very clearly defined ; the legs evenly barred, and distinct rings round the neck, like so many chains. What are generally exhibited as Brown Tabbies lack the orange or golden tone, and have too much drab or grey in their colouring. The eyes should be yellow or orange. Any white in Tabby cats is a decided blemish. There is a tendency now to breed Orange cats with tabby heads and legs and self-coloured bodies. This seems a mistake. No doubt an entire Orange cat without any mark- ings would be very handsome, and perhaps some of our I! BREEDS AND VARIETIES 21 enthusiastic Orange fanciers may succeed in breeding such a cat, and also produce blue eyes ! At present the classifica- tion generally stands for Orange cats, marked or unmarked. The colour of the eyes should be a bronze gold, or hazel brown. Orange females are much rarer than Orange males. Cream Persians are very much to the fore now, but the name is suggestive of a cat much paler in colour than those seen in the Show pens. These cats should be as self- coloured as possible, without tabby markings or shadings. They are often rather patchy in colour, and lean towards fawn rather than cream. Their eyes should be the same golden or hazel colour as in the Orange breed. It is seldom a really good specimen of a Tortoiseshell is seen. These tricolour cats of black, orange and yellow should be patched, just like the marks in a piece of tortoise- shell. There should be no streaks, stripes or tabby mark- ings in a good Tortoiseshell cat, and the colours should be well broken and evenly distributed over the body, head and legs. The brighter colours should predominate, and no white is permissible. To novices only in the Fancy need I remark, that Tortoise- shell Tom cats are extremely rare. Tortoiseshell and white long-haired cats are by no means common. Most of those exhibited have too much white about them, and might justly be called White and Tortoiseshell. To be correct, the black, orange and white should be evenly balanced, and the chest and nose should always be white, with patches of colour on either side of the face. And now to consider the Short-haired breeds. My re- marks as to the Black, White and Tabby long-haired cats equally apply to the short-haired varieties. The Blacks must have no white, and the Whites be pure in colouring. The eyes of the former should be orange, and of the latter blue. It will be easily understood that the markings in the Tabby short-haired cats are much more vivid and distinct than in the long-haired breeds. There are also * Spotted Tabbies, but they are rare. In these there should be no lines whatever not even rings. The more the spots appear * Strictly, of course, this is a contradiction in terms, for " Tabby " means "Striped." Still the name "Spotted Tabby" has become established and is intelligible. 22 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM to the exclusion of any other markings the better the speci- men. I have never seen or heard of an Orange-spotted Tabby. The commonest of all cats are Short-haired Tabbies and Whites, and Blacks and Whites. We see these specimens on many doorsteps. The markings are sometimes quite grotesque in their distribution. It seems almost a pity to so far encourage these cats as to give classes for them at our Shows. The " Any other colour " class is set apart in both the long- and short-haired sections for this description of cat, and for those that cannot really be properly classed, such as very light Smokes, Tortoiseshell Tabbies, and Blue Tabbies. Formerly Self-coloured cats with white spots were entered also in this class, but it has wisely been decided that these must take their chance in their own classes. The Blue Short-haired cat, commonly called Russian, has a coat resembling plush in texture. These cats are supposed to have first come from Archangel, but the best authorities seem to agree in believing they are not a distinct breed, and therefore they are now classed at our Shows amongst the short-haired English varieties. Blues should have deep orange eyes, and the colour of coat may be light or dark, but must be even throughout, without any appearance of stripes or markings. A v* hite spot, as in other self-coloured cats, is a blemish. The interest in Manx cats is rapidly and surely increasing. These quaint pussies are very intelligent, faithful and affec- tionate,bu t I must confess the love of this particular breed appears to me to be an acquired taste. The first, and all- essential point, is that a Manx cat should have absolutely no tail: one should be able to feel where the backbone ends. Some Manx cats have a tuft of skin or hair, or a stump, but such appendages count against these specimens in the Show pen. The fur of the Manx cat is longer and softer than is found in the ordinary short-haired cat ; its hind legs resemble those of a rabbit ; and the absence of tail gives an appearance of still greater length of limb. Self-coloured Manx cats are much rarer than Tabbies, and I know of a Tortoiseshell Manx needless to say, a female. Perhaps the most difficult cat to breed and rear in this country is the Siamese. Some fanciers declare these cats BREEDS AND VARIETIES 23 cannot stand our climate, and others attribute their great delicacy to those terrible pests worms to which this breed is very subject. Certain it is that breeders of Siamese have much to contend with and many disappointments to suffer. The Royal Cat of Siam, so called from the original breed being kept in the Palace of the King of Siam, is one of the most fascinating cats to keep as a pet. They have wonder- ful intelligence, and seem to have great powers of attaching themselves to human beings. In colouring they resemble pug-dogs, When born they are nearly white, and gradually turn a pale fawn. Their ears, muzzle, tail and legs should deepen to a dense brown chocolate colour. The markings of the ears should be sharp and distinct. The eyes should be a lovely bright blue, large and round. On the question as to whether the tail of a Siamese cat should be kinked or not kinked, no two opinions appear to agree, though H.M. the King of Siam is quoted as saying they ought not to be. A rather strange characteristic of this breed is the tendency to darken in coat as they grow in age. For this reason it is well to have the classes at Shows divided according to age. Siamese cats may be said to be in their prime at a year old ; after this their colouring becomes blurred. The only other foreign cat that calls for attention is the Abyssinian or Bunny cat, and it is not often that specimens are exhibited at our Shows. We have no special fanciers of this breed. The fur has a groundwork of reddish-brown ticked with darker brown markings. The coat should be close and soft. The "Maltese" (Short-haired Blue) cat of the United States is not known by that name in England, nor has the American "coon cat" or the Mexican hairless cat yet been seen on our Show benches. References to the two former of these will be found on a later page. II CARE AND MANAGEMENT THOSE who have had a long experience with cats or kittens know how impossible it is to lay down a hard-and-fast rule regarding their feeding and management. As with human beings so it is with cats. They have their likes and dislikes, their dispositions vary, and their constitutions are totally different. If we wish our pets to thrive we must study them individually, not collectively. There is a saying that "what is one man's meat is another man's poison," and I have known some kittens to grow fat and look well on food on which others have dwindled away. It is a mistake for a novice to start with a large number of cats, for failure is sure to follow. Two good females is enough to begin with, and these would probably be indoor pets. Kittens are no trouble to " settle down," but with grown cats it is very different, and it is well to find out from pussy's late owner whether she has been a house pet or cattery cat, as well as her favourite diet, and whether she had been used to sawdust or earth in her sanitary-pan. Her happiness on entering a new home depends greatly on her own disposition. Some cats do not seem to mind a change of abode and ownership in the least, and are most affectionate and demonstrative on being liberated from the basket. They will eat anything that is placed before them. Unhappily there are others that, as soon as they find themselves in a strange place, are frightened and miserable, and will rush into the farthest and darkest corner of the room under a Mrs. Collingwoods "Royal Bobs Charles, photo, London CARE AND MANAGEMENT 25 chair or sofa. It is kindest in these cases to leave puss alone for some time ; then try by gentle persuasion to coax her out of her hiding-place with a saucer of milk or some " tit-bit." She may refuse all food for two or three days, but before long she will get accustomed to her new sur- roundings, and at the end of a week or ten days will probably be perfectly happy and contented. Of course, for the first few days it will be necessary to keep windows and doors shut, and to show her constantly the pan she is to use or to take her into the garden, so as to teach clean habits. If, when she is in the garden, you find she has made a sudden dart, do not attempt to chase her ; it is the worst thing you can do. Wait until she is inclined to stop and look about ; then call her gently. You will probably find she does not want to run away. But be careful how you take her up. Some cats will not be handled, and will struggle and fight and scratch and bite, but a cat cannot escape if you catch her by the skin at the back of the neck. I do not mean that you should keep her in a hang- ing position, but your right hand would be holding her neck as you nurse her in your left arm. Cats are naturally timid, and it is curious to note what antipathy they have as a rule to men, though they will grow as devoted to a master as to a mistress. But a strange man's step fills them with alarm. The golden rules to observe in the feeding of cats are Regularity and Moderation. An authority on cats recently told me that the primary cause of the majority of the ills that the cat is subject to is over-feeding, and the conse- quent over-taxation of the digestive organs. Two solid meals a day besides milk twice, are quite sufficient for any ordinary cat (nursing mothers and young kittens excepted of which I will speak later). For breakfast a solid meal of some " food " such as The Phoenix Food, Melox, and those prepared by "Salvo," Freeman, and Mellin; any of these given hot make a delightful breakfast. Porridge and fish or fish and rice are very much appreciated and if you wish to flavour equally any of the " food," it is a good plan to get the fish and put it on a dish and pour some boiling milk or water on it ; then mash up the fish with a fork and pour the fish and milk (or fish and water, as the case may be) over the" food," biscuit, rice or oatmeal porridge ; then mix well together to 26 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM give the whole food a fishy flavour. For supper give a meat meal raw meat, horseflesh, liver, tripe, rabbit, or lights but do not give lights constantly if any lung trouble is suspected among your pets. Where several cats are kept it is advisable to get a mincing-machine, as not only does it save considerable time, but the food finely minced is much more digestible than cut up meat, however small. Green vegetables should be given in moderation, as they act as a blood purifier. Every care should be taken not to give food that is the least tainted. For growing cats or kittens that may be at all weak in their limbs, lime-water is indispensable, as it gives strength and forms bone. A dessert-spoonful of lime-water in milk should be given to cats, and a little less to kittens. In the spring of the year a pinch of sulphur powder (the black for preference) should be mixed with the first meal of the day twice a week, as a preventive of skin troubles. On no account should you allow your queen to mate more than twice in the year, nor should these litters follow too closely as it is a strain on the mother, besides making her dreadfully thin ; and it must be remembered that this will affect the kittens, making them weakly and delicate. Gestation lasts nine weeks (sixty-three days), but cats often go three days and even longer beyond that time. As the day for the " accouchement " approaches, it is as well to give a small dose of oil or to feed on sardines as the bowels should be kept well opened. The bed should be made a week or more beforehand and be shown to " Madame " for her approval. It is best to have a box fairly high so as to keep out all draughts, yet not high enough to prove an inconvenience to puss each time she jumps in and out. Hay is nicest to put in the box and a little insect powder should be sprinkled underneath. After the kittens have arrived a piece of blanket on the hay is much appreciated by the mother, but neither she nor her kittens should be handled for at least twenty-four hours. If it is a first litter or if the mother is not reliable, a foster-mother should be in readiness. For preference in such cases get a strong English cat, as they are more robust than Persians, and often far more loving mothers. Four kittens are enough for any average cat to bring up. In the CARE AND MANAGEMENT 27 selection of a foster-mother the age of both litters should be about the same (at any rate within a week) as the mother's milk varies according to the age of her offspring, and not only this, but new-born kittens require more maternal watching and warmth than kittens of three or four weeks old. If it should happen that the mother dies or deserts her babies or has no milk, and a foster cannot be found, you must do your best to bring them up by hand. This in- volves much care and patience. A hot-water bottle covered with flannel comforts the tiny mites. They should be fed every two hours during the day (and at least twice during the night) for the first fortnight with milk and water and a tiny pinch of sugar. Up to the end of the first week the proportion of milk and water should be one part milk and two parts water, including a little lime water. At the end of the first week it should be half and half till three weeks is reached, when it should be three parts milk and one water. At three weeks old, if milk is not given, Mellin's Food is to be highly recommended, and the proportions of "Mellin's," milk, and water are given with the directions for "infants and invalids," and common sense tells one which of the directions to adopt. At five or six weeks old, solid food ought to be given in very small quantities three quarters of a teaspoonful of the finest and most tender minced raw meat twice a day (but not given consecutively), Mellin's food two or three times ; and a little thin arrowroot may be given for a change, beef-tea or a tiny helping of fish mixed with warm milk. This same diet only in rather larger quantities may be given till eight weeks old ; from that age to three months a little rice and gravy, Spratt's puppy biscuit (very finely mashed), Salvo's or Freeman's food or Phcenix with gravy. Rabbit-broth or fishy flavour can be introduced, and is very much enjoyed. Milk pud- dings too are good for kittens. Be sure to offer your cats grass, as it is nature's own medigine, and animals will not take it unless they need it. A nursing mother should have three solid meals a day, and miik twice if she will take it, but do not give her too heating and stimulating a diet, as it is apt to produce scurf in the kittens. When this is noticed give the mother a pinch of sulphur powder on her first meal two or three times a week. 28 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM What fanciers dread most in their litters are bad eyes ; if they are the result of cold they are not so hard to cure but the usual cause is debility and worms in the mother or other constitutional weakness. If the kittens are only a few weeks old the mother should have a worm dose as this affects the milk and acts on the kittens beneficially. The kittens them- selves should not be dosed under three months old. It is cruel to take a kitten from the mother until eight weeks old. Never dose a cat for worms when in kitten after the first fourteen days as it would be more than likely to cause a mis- carriage. These hapless events usually occur at the end of five weeks, and are generally caused by fright, chill, or weak- ness, or are the result of old age of either of the parents (generally the mother). If once a mishap has occurred history may repeat itself and especial care should be taken at the time which has proved the most critical to the mother in previous matings. I should mention that diarrhoea is another ailment very common in kittens and there are various causes chill, indi- gestion and worms. This troublesome complaint should at once be stopped or the kitten loses strength and succumbs. Fleas and those horrid little lice also work great havoc. And I have seen more than one victim to these pests, with deadly white lips, nose and mouth, the coat all rough and wiry, the kitten itself a bag of bones with no real disease except what the insects have caused, for they suck the blood, thus causing anaemia, and irritate the sufferer almost to madness. A tooth comb will get rid of all the dirt and nearly all the fleas ; then rub a little insect powder into the fur, but never use insect powder on very young kits as the mother has a horror of it and might desert her kittens in consequence. It is often necessary to toothcomb young kittens. Mr. Ward, of Manchester, makes a very good powder which kills lice, but it does not destroy the vitality in the eggs at once, so the powdering will have to be repeated at intervals. This powder has a very inoffensive smell, but I would not recommend using it on kittens until six weeks old. I have not yet mentioned out-of-door catteries. These are best made of wood raised up from the ground and should be covered with felt or corrugated iron. There should be plenty of ventilation, avoiding draughts. A wired-in run is Mrs Robert Little's "Othello" Nottle, photo, Beckenhant CARE AND MANAGEMENT 29 most desirable and ought to be covered over so that in wet weather the cats should not have to be shut in their rooms all day. There is no doubt that cats thrive best out of doors and can stand any amount of dry cold. Artificial heat ought not to be encouraged ; it makes cats delicate and very susceptible to cold and other catty complaints ; while in- variably giving kittens weak eyes. The cattery cat is far better off with the temperature even, and with a nice com- fortable bed in a cosy corner of her "room" a box with plenty of warm hay for the winter months and paper for the summer months. Great attention should be paid to keeping the sanitary pans clean and well supplied with earth or saw-dust, other- wise pussy is encouraged to be dirty, for she will not go to a pan which has nothing but wet mould, and she much resents a pan that one of her neighbours has used. If two or three cats have to share accommodations it is best to have two or three pans about. Londoners especially should lay in a stock of Japanese mould, as supplied by Carter's of High Holborn. All feeding vessels should be kept scrupulously clean and never left standing about. In advocating out-of-door catteries it must be understood that it would be madness to put a cat out in mid- winter which had hitherto been a house- cat. She would probably be dead from pneumonia within a week. But cats put out for the first time in the early summer thrive all the year round better than those who lead an indoor life. They have healthier appetites and grow better coats. Speaking of coats reminds me that a cat comb and brush should be kept and each cat combed down once a day. It prevents their hair from matting, brings out the old coat, and causes the new coat to come on more quickly, and last, but certainly not least, it keeps the coat clean and free from insects. I have spoken of nursing mothers and kittens, but not of stud cats, Stud cats require more meat and stimulating food than others ; and a day should not pass without their having a plateful of meat. Raw meat occasionally is abso- lutely essential. Never forget to keep your Tom cats well supplied with grass, for having no amount of exercise they require it 30 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM Above all things don't overwork your stud cat, and try to avoid inbreeding. I can highly recommend Boulton & Paul's capital houses for stud cats. I have had one for four years, and it has answered splendidly ; and my cat Persimmon, who inhabits it, has never ailed anything. Mine is a double house, but I had the partition taken down, so that there is quite a fair-sized exercise ground. A few words about gelded cats will not be out of place in this chapter, my remarks being applicable to both long and short haired neuters. For reasons that are easily understood it is necessary, if you wish to have a house pet of unimpeachable manners, to have your male cat doctored when he arrives at years of discretion, or in this case I might say, indiscretion ! I con- sider between five and six months the best time for a cat to be gelded. These cats grow to an enormous size, and their coats are generally very long and thick. They do not shed their fur to the same extent as ordinary cats. Certainly they should always be judged in a separate class at all shows. The neuter class at good shows is often most attrac- tive and well filled. As a rule these cats are more docile and better-tempered than others, and though they are con- sidered a lazy set, yet rats and mice will be generally kept under by the household pet. When fanciers are over- wrought by disappointing litters, troublesome Toms and prolific females, I have more than once heard them exclaim : " I shall get rid of all my cats, and only keep neuters 1 " II (continue^} PRACTICAL HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT Kittens. IT is always advisable when buying a kitten to make inqui- ries as to the way in which it has been fed, so as to continue the same regime for at least a few days. Any sudden change of diet for young kittens is to be avoided. For delicate kittens raw meat should be passed through a mincing machine, or if the animal is really extremely weak and ill, then let it be rubbed through a sieve, so that the digestive organs will have little or no work. Teach your kittens when young to lap water. It is a capital thing for all animals, especially with a small bit of sulphur in it. There is a great knack in teaching young kittens to feed themselves. When they are about three weeks is the time to try and get them to take a little milk and warm water : say about twice a day. I find a shallow plate is better than a saucer, for when the mites dip their mouths into the milk they do not get out of the depth ! It is curious how stupid some kittens are in making the start towards independence iu feeding, whilst others in the same litter quickly master the difficulty of lapping on *he surface of the milk. Some are taught better if the milk is held to their mouths in a 32 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM spoon. Add a pinch of sugar to the milk and warm water. In bringing up young kittens by hand, the mistake is often made of giving too much food and over-loading the little creatures, who in consequence suffer from acute indigestion. A teaspoonful of milk or Mellin's food at a time is sufficient, and this may be given every two or three hours. It is best to try and not awaken kittens in order to feed. Of course one is sometimes obliged to feed by force, but this should be resorted to only as a last extremity. I have often spent an hour or more in trying, by all sorts of persuasive means, to get a kit to feed of her own sweet will, and have felt a throb of pride when my efforts have been crowned with success. Some kittens will begin to feed themselves at three weeks, and be quite able to leave their mothers when they are five or six weeks old. I do not think, however, that kittens should be sent adrift till they are at least two months old, by which time they will have some idea of the method by which their careful and attentive mother has kept them clean and tidy. I do not approve of raw fish, especially for young kittens, it is not easily digested and often causes diarrhoea. There is a knack about teaching young kittens to be clean. As soon as they are able to scramble out of their basket care should be taken not to allow them to run into corners. When this occurs pick them up and put them in the pan of earth or mould provided for them. With patience and per- severance you will find the little creatures will accommodate themselves to circumstances and the pan ! The weakest part in a young kitten is, undoubtedly, the eye, and I think breeders will bear me out in my statement that they have a great deal of trouble with bad eyes in kittens. Several lotions and ointments are supplied, but sometimes I have found these irritating. Use sweet oil to keep the lids Mrs. Pettit's White Persian " Piquante Pearl ' Russell &* Sons, photo, London HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 33 from sticking together, give plenty of fresh air and sunshine when possible, and leave the rest to the mother. A good guide as to the health of kittens is their weight ; and a kitten to be in really prime condition should weigh one pound to every month, say up to six months old. So if you find a three-months-old kit much below three pounds you should feed him up. It is a capital plan to teach your young kittens to some- times take their food from a teaspoon, so that when it is necessary to administer a dose of medicine it comes more natural to them. I have often noticed that very long-coated kittens are the most delicate, their strength having gone into their fur. I recently came across a liiter of Blues that at three weeks old were enormous to look at on account of their extra- ordinary coats. They were really tiny limbed creatures, and they dropped off one by one without any apparent cause. I do not know if there is anything in the notion that if the male cat is very strong and healthy the offsprings will consist of more males than females, but from experience I have found that an old queen will almost invariably breed females largely in excess of males. I believe that all kittens are born healthy, and, therefore, supposing the mother is weak and delicate, it is best to have a foster ready, and take each kit away as it is born, not allowing it to suck from the mother at all. I have recently heard of great success following this course. The mother was consumptive, but the four kittens given at once to a healthy foster are splendidly strong. Kittens generally shed their first teeth when between five and seven months old. This is often a very critical time, and I have known several cases of convulsions occurring. Owners of cats should frequently examine the mouths of their pets, if they suspect any teething trouble. It is some- times necessary to draw some of the old teeth to make way for the new comers. I can tell of one poor cat who refused c 34 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM all solid food, and for no apparent reason. I opened his mouth, and discovered a double row of teeth, and at once extracted several loose ones, which must have been the cause of great pain and discomfort. I object to sawdust for young kittens. I have just heard of a case in point, where some of the small particles got into the kitten's ear, and the little creature, in its endeavour to get rid of the tickling, caused a bad sore by scratching. There is no doubt that as a pick-me-up for delicate kittens the sea air is much to be recommended. It is quite wonderful to see the transformation in these little mites after a few days of sunshine by the sea. Their eyes become clear and bright and their appetites require something more than air and light to satisfy them. You may, perhaps, observe a sort of roughness under the fur of your kitten, and fancy it is some skin trouble, whereas in reality it is quantities of flea dirt. This is very injurious. Use a small tooth comb, and then part the fur, and brush with rather a hard brush. When kittens reach the age of four weeks they should begin to learn to lap. A shallow plate filled with milk and warm water is better than a saucer. Begin by just dipping the kits' mouths into the milk. They will rather resent this treatment at first, and make a spluttering, but the cunning ones will grasp the situation and make another attempt on their own account. They will quickly learn not to dip their heads too deep, and their joy is great when they find they can lap up the milk without nearly choking them- selves. Mother and Young The best months for our pussies to have their families are April and May, then the young kittens have the summer before them, when they can enjoy plenty of out-door air and exercise. HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 35 Perhaps you may have noticed a decided partiality for bottom drawers that your puss will display as the date of the expected arrival draws near. I think in this respect a mother cat shows her good sense, for certainly if a bottom drawer can be spared, it is a very safe and convenient home for a litter of kits. They are out of draughts and danger, and if the drawer is left an inch or two open, they can get plenty of air. Of course, whilst the mother is nursing them a larger opening is necessary, so that she may jump in and out. Do not allow your cats to have their kittens in outside catteries during cold weather. The mother is not able to attend to them properly till all are born into the world, and, therefore, the neglected ones are sometimes perished to death before they can cuddle up to get the natural warmth they so much require. When cats are in kitten great care should be taken in handling them, and if it is really necessary to lift your pnss, do so with both hands, placing one under her hind quarters. It is very injurious to attempt to pick up a cat in this interesting condition under the front paws, thus leaving the heaviest part of the body suspended. It is most important that all female cats should be freed from worms before being allowed to breed, or even to mate. So o'ten young; kittens fall victims to these pests, having sucked in the disease with their mother's milk. I highly re- commend Ward's worm powders, but as all vermifuges are weakening, a specially nourishing diet should be given at the same time. After our puss has given birth to two, three, or four kittens, we are often led ^y her size to suppose there are more' to follow. Sometimes we may be right, but more probably it is only a temporary enlargement, and in a day or two we become, perhaps, concerned to find the mother's sides very visibly decrease. Give hot milk and farinaceous food to your puss just at first after the birth of kittens. Some pussies greatly resent being looked at during the 36 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM first days of their motherhood. They will show their dis- pleasure by carrying off their kittens and hiding them. I have just heard of a case where the kits mysteriously dis- appeared from their basket, and after diligent search the litter of four was found carefully packed away in one of the boots belonging to the gentlemen of the house ! It is best to place the bed in some secluded and dark corner, and not to trouble the family with frequent visits. It is a bad habit to feed your puss in her hamper when she is nursing her kittens. She may be averse to coming out and leaving the precious family, but it is best for her to stretch her legs, and cleaner and nicer in every way. It is after the first week or ten days that a nursing mother begins to feel a large family trying. There is really no immediate necessity for a foster when the mites are only a day or two old. Don't distress yourself if your mother pussy refuses her usual saucer of milk when she is nursing a family. The in- stinct in animals, even in mere cats, is wonderful, and if puss prefers water TO milk, be sure she has her reasons, which are unknown to the human mind. When a cat is nursing let her have plenty of hot milk. This will be a great assistance to her in providing sufficient nourishment for her family. Warm Bovril or Kreochyle is also very sustaining, to which I find cats are very partial. Sleep is almost as essential as food to young kittens, so when you see them cuddled up comfortably, do not disturb them and always avoid handling them. Perhaps through some disaster or because your puss deserts her kits, she is left with a lot of milk, It is best to give her a dose of castor oil and rub her breasts gently and frequently wiih camphorated spirit or eau de Cologne, diluted with a little warm water. In about three or four days the milk will dry up. It is very seldom that cats suffer from milk fever. Don't let your Persian queens bring up more than four HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 37 kittens. Try and secure a foster to assist if the litter is a larger one. It is when kittens are about a week old that the mother begins to feel the strain upon her. A nursing mother should have four good meals a day. It is well to book a foster cat if our queens are not good mothers. The difficulty is generally to fix the date of the arrival of the foster mother's kittens. It is best to have the foster in the house a few days before the litter is expected. A cat should not be allowed to take a railway journey having just had a family, as the shaking is likely to upset the puss. There is really no difficulty in transferring kittens to foster mothers, and it is well to keep common cats in view at about the period when our valuable queens are due to kitten. I have found the following plan answer splendidly. Take it for granted your Persian queen and the common or garden cat have litters about the same time. You proceed to pain- lessly destroy all but one of the fester's family. Then place two or three, or all of the valuable kittens in the nurse cat's bed, mixing them up with the one kitten, baving in the meantime removed the mother. In this way the new kittens will become scented as it were with the surroundings, and on her return the mother will give a few sniffs, and pro- bably cuddle down quite contentedly, with only a vague suspicion that something has happened. Some cats will be excellent mothers to a large family, but if anything should happen to any of the litter and she is left with only one or two she will desert them. It is better to try and procure other kittens to put with her, and let her foster these with her own. Kittens should not be taken from their mother before two months, and those that are left another month are generally the better for it. Not only is it well for the cat to suckle her young as long as possible, but the natural warmth is very essential for kittens of tender age. Avoid handling your cat when she is in kitten, and when the family arrives resist the temptation of picking up the tiny mites. Some mothers resent this, and will often hide away their offspring, 38 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM and they have been known to eat them in consequence of undue interference. I was once possessed of a lovely blue female, whose only fault was neglecting her offspring when about a fortnight old. I hit upon the plan of using the filler of a fountain pen. I charged this with warm milk and water, and placing the end in the kitten's mouth, I gently pressed the rubber. The kits sucked away with great glee. This is a much better mode of getting food down young kits' throats than by using a spoon. I believe Mr. Ward, of Manchester, has improved upon my patent, and a glorified fountain-pen filler is now provided by him. This has a piece of india-rubber fixed on the part of glass tube which is put in the kitten's mouth, and thus all risk of their biting the glass and breaking it is done away with. Let me recom- mend all breeders of kittens to have one of these useful articles amongst their catty requisites, It is not very safe to put Keating's Powder on your baby kits, but, if troubled with fleas, sprinkle some amongst the hay at the bottom of their basket, under which place a news- paper. You will be astonished what a number of fleas, dead and dying, will be found on removing the basket. Change the hay frequently, and sprinkle fresh powder. In this way, both mother and kits will be kept free from these pests. Don't have anything to do with red baize or flannel in making a bed for young kittens. If these materials get wet the dye comes out and stains the coats horribly. The other day I came across a little family of Blues with red tails ! In wintry weather it is risky sending our precious queens on long journeys. Make use of large sheets of brown paper as coverings to the hampers. This denes the wind much better than woollen wrappers or linings. I am often asked how it is best to set about breeding Persian cats so as to make it pay, and I invariably answer by telling my inquirers to procure two thoroughly good, healthy pedigree queens. At the present time, I should HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 39 suggest a Blue and a Silver. Send these to mate with well- known sires, and advertise the kittens just before they are ready to leave their mother, say at about eight weeks old. Avoid the use of drugs of any kind for your cats when in kitten. Give extra food, and when the interesting event draws near, prepare a nice box or bed in a secluded corner. Some cats much prefer paper to hay or straw ; others like a folded blanket. Male and Stud Cats I am sure it is a mistake if you have a stud cat to allow him his liberty one day and then shut him up again. He will pine and fret much more than if kept in continual con- finement. It is important, however, that our male cats should have plenty of fresh air and a long enough run to take some exercise. One of the advantages of cat shows is that we are enabled to take stock of the various males, as in some cases adver- tisements of stud cats are a little misleading. I attach great importance to size of head and form of body. Sufficient attention is not paid to mating cats when they are not show- ing any indication of moulting. Choose a stud cat in good coat if possible. The outward characteristics are in a great measure transmitted by the male, so look well to markings, colour, and shape of the stud cat selected. The usual fee for the services of a good stud in the cat fancy is i is., and the expense of carriage is defrayed by the sender of the queen. In the United States the charge is from five to ten dollars. A word to novices. Beware of keeping your male cats together after they have passed ten months, as I have recently heard of a torn who attacked his brother very suddenly and nearly killed him. It is a good plan to try and accustom your cats to be tethered up. My stud cat is quite happy on a long cord. 40 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM He gets to know about the distance he can walk round. In this way he has a fair amount of exercise and plenty of fresh air. Catteries and Appliances If you decide to keep your cats and pets in a cattery, bring them indoors now and again and thus accustom them to home life and human beings. It is much pleasanter to have a really domestic cat, rather than one that darts away when approached and is frightened at every sound. All wooden catteries should be well raised from the ground. It is important to have good ventilation. It is a capital plan to have movable wooden shutters, so that in extra windy or damp weather these can be easily put up to form a shelter. In constructing a cattery, be sure and have plenty of shelves fixed up. All cats have a weakness for sitting on a shelf, however hard or narrow. During the winter we are sometimes wishful to heat our catteries, although I am not in favour of artificial heat. After a heavy rain or dense fog we have recourse to a little oil stove. Be careful to protect this in some way by wire net- ting or a fire guard. I have known a cat to waft its tail over the top of one of these stoves, and it was more than singed ! Cats are essentially and naturally clean animals, and it is o r ten the fault of their mistresses and caretakers that they become dirty in their habits. Keep their earth tins clean and sweet, and you will seldom find that pussy offends. Cats so much prefer to have something to scratch in and scratch over. Japanese mould is splendid for use in cats' tins. This can be purchased at Carter's well-known firm in High Holborn. It has the advantage of being a great absorbent, consequently Mrs. Sinkin's Smoke "Teufel" Debenham &> Smith, photo, Southampton HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 41 no disagreeable odour is noticed, and the mould need not be changed so frequently as ordinary earth. A house pet whose behaviour cannot be relied upon is not a desirable inmate. It is always best to have an arrange- ment of an earth tin in some quiet corner, and to accustom the cat to make use of this in an emergency. I never advocate any artificial heat for cats or kittens, but if you have a delicate specimen, or one suffering from a cold, and the weather is severe, then I have found that a hot bottle at night is a great comfort. The india-rubber ones are the most handy, but failing these, a stone ginger- beer bottle filled with boiling water, and tightly corked, answers the purpose. Wrap it in flannel and place in the bed last thing at night. It is a good plan during the winter months to keep a store of dry earth in some covered place, so that you can have a constant supply with which to replenish your tins. There is nothing a cat resents more than being asked to use a tin containing damp earth. All sleeping boxes or hampers for cats should be raised, and, even for a cat sleeping in the house, a bed, on a chair or box, is much to be preferred to letting her lie on the ground where there is certain to be a draught. Be sure and let your pussies have an abundance of hay in their beds during the winter months. Boxes are warmer than hampers, and the top should be covered over so that the cat may crawl in from the front over a ledge of a few inches of wood. Then when inside the bed she is protected from any ground draught. The straw or hay provided for our cats should be changed at least once a week, and oftener in summer. A little Mothalene sprinkled at the bottom of the box or hamper keeps down troublesome insects. During the summer do not put too much hay in your 4* CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM cats' beds ; in fact, I prefer a sheet of newspaper laid at the bottom of the box or hamper. Hay is heating, and encourages fleas. Some cats have a most troublesome and irritating habit of rubbing their heads against the walls or wire netting of their houses. A sheet of glass about the height of the animal will prevent the destruction of their coat and ruft from the continued friction. If you use wire netting in your catteries be very careful that the ends are neatly finished off and that no sharp bit of wire is left sticking out. I have known cats receive severe injuries to their eyes from scratches, and often their coats suffer from being caught on the rough ends of the netting. It is always best to keep separate and distinct saucers and plates for our pussies' use. I would recommend the blue and white enamelled ware, which is unbreakable. I find, also, that it is often very convenient to heat the milk in one of these plates instead of troubling to boil it in a pan. If a saucer of milk is placed on a closed stove for a few minutes it soon becomes hot, and no injury is done to this enamelled ware. The basins are also very handy, but for Long-haired cats the plates are better, as pussy's ruff is less likely to become soiled with the food. I find that my cats prefer a circular basket as a bed to a square one ; they seem able to curl round more comfortably. This is specially the case with a mother puss and her litter of kits. Have you remarked how fond cats are of each having their own plates and saucers from which to feed ? I have lately invested in some nice deep white saucers. They were a " job line " at twopence-halfpenny the dozen ! If you are building cat-houses, remember that a concrete floor is much better thsm a wooden one. It may seem cold in winter, but a piece of movable linoleum or cork " lino " will add to the appearance and comtort of the cattery. HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 43 During very hot weather our stud cats who inhabit houses suffer a good deal when the sun strikes down upon them. I cover the front of my cattery with an old rug and then make free use of the garden hose, letting it play upon the top and saturating the thick cover. This has a wonder- fully cooling effect, which lasts some time. During the process my cat retires into his sleeping apartment. It is difficult to procure suitable earth tins for our cats. I tried several, but they were either too shallow or too deep, so decided on ordering some of the required size made in galvanised iron, at Whiteley's. Large earthenware flower- pot saucers, well glazed, are also very suitable. Hints on Food If you can persuade your pussies to eat Spratt's Cod Liver Oil Puppy Biscuits you do them a good turn and yourself also, for they are very nourishing and inexpensive. We all acknowledge that raw meat is an excellent diet, but if we are possessed of a number of queens, two or three stud cats, and several litters of growing kittens, then the butcher's bill becomes a serious consideration. The biscuits should be soaked for some hours till soft enough to be mashed through a fork ; a tablespoonful of the red gravy from a roast joint added, diluted with a dash of hot water and a sprinkle of salt. The kits will not leave much beside the pattern on the plate. A cat will often refuse her food simply because she cannot smell it. It is therefore important to clear the passage of the nose. Sometimes if you can put one piece of food into your pussy's mouth, she will then taste it, and continue to eat of her own accord. A cat or kitten must be very far gone to refuse Brand's essence. So, if all food fails, try this. I find they generally prefer it in the jelly, and to lick it out of a spoon. Oatmeal is such a splendid food for our pussies during winter, but I do not find they are very partial to it. I would 44 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM suggest mixing the meal in water in which liver has been boiled, and adding a few bits of the meat with it to make the dish more tasty. Another nice winter meal is Hovis bread (brown), with boiling milk poured over it. A change may be made by scalding the bread till soft, then pour off the water, and stir in a tablespoonful of condensed milk. Not only do bones amuse a cat, but they benefit the teeth considerably, and help to strengthen the jaws. Large bones are preferable, with, of course, a little flesh on them. Avoid small ones, as they are apt to be swallowed and stick in the throat. During the very hot weather butchers very wisely put their meat in ice, or in cold rooms, especially arranged for keeping it. It is not advisable to give raw meat in its frozen state to cats, and so I should recommend just scalding it, or pouring boiling water over it. Some people prefer to slightly cook the meat, leaving all the red juice in it. Two meals a day are as a rule sufficient for healthy cats, but some who are " bad doers " require special treatment and should be offered food in small quantities three or even four times a day. If a large dish ot food is placed before a cat who feeds badly, it is very apt to sicken her and make her refuse to eat at all. I have found macaroni, well boiled and mixed with gravy, a capital food for cats and kittens. It makes a change, and is generally highly approved of. We see a number of pictures in the daily papers of plump, pretty babies who have been brought up on Mellin's Food. Now, it stands to reason that what is nourishing for infants must also be good for young kittens. I know of several cat fanciers who swear by Mellin's Food. I advocate a mixed diet for cats, and therefore recommend ringing the changes on raw meat, cooked meat, with vege- tables and gravy ; fish, mixed with rice and boiled milk. I HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 45 consider two meals a day sufficient for cats, and three meals for kittens, under ordinary circumstances. Tom cats, when at stud, should have an extra meal given to them, and a nursing mother just as much as she will eat. I do not approve of tit-bits given between meals, which is harmful to the digestion. I have been told by an experienced fancier that tripe is an excellent food for cats, and that they are extremely fond of it. I intend to give it a trial, as one is always glad to know of something in the way of a change in pussy's menu. An inexpensive meal for. a cat is jelly made from bones, which can be procured from your butcher for a few pence. I am sure that most cat fanciers on a large scale will bear me out in my statement that hardly two cats feed alike, therefore I consider that no strict bill of daily fare can be laid down. With some cats breakfast seems the all im- portant meal, and others will rejoice when supper time arrives. Two good rules to follow are these: Food should never be left, and water must be continually supplied. < Sardines are rather an expensive luxury, but during cold weather I treat my cats to some twice or three times a week. I find that breadcrumbs mixed in the oil makes more of a meal and takes away from the richness of the fish. A fowl's head, with the feathers on it, is said to be an excellent thing for cats. Sometimes when the appetite has quite failed, the sight of this delicacy will tempt pussy to start eating again. The same, if a sparrow can be trapped or shot, and given freshly killed. I am not an advocate for bread and milk for kittens, yet I must confess I have seen some wonderfully healthy spe- cimens brought up on this diet. I should anyhow advise brown bread, and the boiled milk should be poured over the pieces of about half an inch in size. 46 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM The last meal for cats should be the most substantial one, as it has to last until the morning. During cold weather a cat will sleep better and feel warmer if it has enjoyed a good supper. Do not give liver frequently to your cats. This food is very laxative and will cause diarrhoea. If, however, you allow your pussies to have it now and then, be sure and boil the meat very slowly. I consider that cats require more feeding in cold weather than in hot, and I generally treat my pussies to an extra meal in the middle of the day during the winter months. Rsw beef is generally considered the best meat for animals, and next to this mutton. Veal and pork should not be given. I consider Freeman's Scientific Food capital for cats. I have used it for two years, and my pussies never tire of it. I mix it with fish or meat stock. I am sure that once tried it will be always used. I do not think fanciers estimate at its proper value pure cold water as a drink for cats. No doubt good fre.-h country milk is nourishing, but at the same time it is rich for young kittens, and I have known a promising family la>d low with liver complaint simply by allowing the ki:s too lavish an allowance of milk. I recommended water instead, and I hear that they are on the frolic again. Loss of appetite is often the result of a bad cold. Pussy loses the sense of smell, and refuses her food, even thorgu the greatest delicacy is offered to her. Just pop a piece of tue meat or fish into her mouth ; she will then realise how good it is, and will turn to the plate and make quite a hearty meal. Cat fanciers often fail to realise that their pets are thirsty in winter as well as summer. During cold frosty weather warm water should be added to pussy's drinking bowl. HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 47 Animals will appreciate this attention, for freezing water is not pleasant to the tongue. Just as with human beings so with cats ; in cases of con- tinuous sickness soda and milk is sometimes the only food that can be kept down. Do not let your pussies drink icy cold milk or water, it is most trying to their digestion and not comforting to their in- teriors. I find my cats like their milk in winter steaming hot and it is wonderful how hot they can lap it. It is very important that cats should be given a good proportion of vegetable diet. This is more especially neces- sary if grass is not easily obtainable. Some fanciers are in favour of lentils, and no doubt they are very nourishing, but as a rule pussy does not take kindly to this food, and an early training is necessary. Lentils should soak for some hours and then be slowly boiled. They are best mixed with scraps of meat and gravy. If your cats cannot have access to grass, then sow seeds in pots and leave in the cattery. Cats always prefer the coarser kind of grass. I find that of all sorts of grass and green food, cats are fondest of ribbon grass. I have some specially sown in the garden, and every morning I twist it in and out of the wire of my cattery, and the pussies bite away at it with great delight. Don't forget when you wish to administer any kind of oil to cats or kits to have the spoon quite hot. It is best to stand it in the boiling water, then pour in the oil, which you will find will slip down the cat's throat very easily, and not remain sticking to the spoon or the patient's mouth. Some cats will thoroughly enjoy to nibble at a piece of bread and butter. One of my cats always makes her ap- pearance at afternoon tea, and expects to be offered tea-cake, muffin, or whatever is going. 48 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM I came across some finely grown and very plump young cats the other day, and on inquiring about their diet I heard it consisted of raw meat and Neaves' food. The result was certainly very satisfactory. It is not advisable to feed a cat just before she starts on a journey. Give a good meal three or four hours previous to packing her up. The receiver will be pretty sure to attend to her wants on her arrival. It is a mistake to put food into the hamper, and pussy generally shows her good sense by refusing to touch it. Many fanciers are averse to giving horseflesh to their cats, and, no doubt, in hot weather it is not to be depended upon. If, however, really reliable cat's meat can be obtained during the winter months, I am sure it forms an excellent and nourishing food. As a rule, the pussies delight in it. I have known cats who become well acquainted with the days on which their butcher calls, and even if they are in a sound sleep they recognise the voice of the charmer, and will make a wild rush for the back door. During hot weather it behoves all cat fanciers to pay extra attention to the condition of the meat, which should be carefully looked over to see if it has been tainted by flies. It is best to dip the meat in weak vinegar and water, but this might give it a taste if to be eaten raw, so use boil- ing water only and rub with a cloth. Flyblown meat is most injurious for cats. Most cats are very fond of lights, and these make a nice change. I find it is best to half cook them, and cut up finely. I do not recommend lights to be given more than twice a week. Have you ever tried boiling sheeps' heads till all the meat falls away from the bone, and then mixing it with some of its own gravy ? It makes a delicious dish for pussy, and not an expensive one. It is surprising what a quantity of meat there is on a head, and I believe it is very nourishing. I use rabbits' heads in the same way, and add some Freeman's scientific food with the meat to make it go farther. CQ HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 49 Eggs are very nourishing, we all know, but few fanciers ever think of giving them to their cats. It is true that London eggs cannot be depended upon, and the so-called " newly laid eggs " are expensive, but dwellers in the country would do well to try their pussies with a fresh egg iery lightly boiled or mixed with hot milk. I have been told by an experienced cat fancier that bone meal is an excellent thing for cats, especially delicate animals needing stamina. This article can be procured from a corn merchant, and a little can be sprinkled amongst the cat's food. I am not an advocate for tinned meat for man or beast, but I confess I have often been very glad to fall back on a tin of rabbit when my stock of food has run short. I find the cats delight in it. Care must be taken to clear out all the bones, and only the best brands of tinned meat should be given. It is a curious fact that all cats adore asparagus. This is an expensive vegetable, but it is well to know of something with which to tempt our pussy should she have quite lost her appetite. Some cats will enjoy beetroot, and cheese is a delight to others. It is a mistake to suppose that because a cat catches birds and mice she needs no other food. On the contrary, feed pussie well and she will do her duty better. A cat en- feebled by neglect or starvation is not in the best condition to successfully hunt and catch its prey. A cheap fish for our cats is hake, and I find they are very fond of it. There is more meat and less bone than in had- dock, which is a usual fish to select, as it is not so expensive as other kinds. I was told a curious fact by a fancier the other day, namely, that frogs cause severe throat inflammation in cats, if chased and played with by them. I can only suppose that some poisonous exhalation comes from these reptiles. Moral : Don't let your cats go frog-hunting. D 50 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM Care of Coats When cats are shedding their coats, it is particularly Im- portant they should have a daily brush, so as to get away the loose fur as quickly as possible, and thus the new hair will have a better chance. It is never an easy matter to wash a long-haired cat, and certainly in cold weather it is dangerous. If you want to clean your puss and prepare her for showing, then purchase a box of Pears' white precipitated Fuller's Earth. Rub this well into the fur, especially fingering the parts that are at all greasy. Then clear away the powder with a soft brush, and you will see a vast improvement in your pussie's appearance. Camphorated chalk can also be used, but it has a cloggiog effect on the coat, is more difficult to brush out, and is not good for the cat should she take to licking it. Avoid washing your cats if possible, and specially be warned against putting any carbolic in the water, with a view to killing the fleas ; you will probably kill your cat, and cer- tainly change the colour of his coat, if he be a Cream or Orange. When a cat's fur looks " spiky," that is, standing out in separate bits of hair instead of being fluffy, you may be pretty sure that puss is troubled with worms. When our pussies are rapidly shedding their coats they need a little extra care and extra food. I feed oftener in the hot weather, giving less at a time. It is bad at any season to leave food standing about, but this is especially the case in hot weather. Parasites, or to be more explicit, lice on cats and kittens, are very troublesome and destructive. They increase with great rapidity, and thrive better on an unhealthy specimen than a robust one. These horrid insects, as well as fleas, exist on the blood of their victims. It is, therefore, most important to check the evil at the commencement. HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 51 I don't like to see a cat for ever washing herself and leaving her coat in a drenclvn^ condition. I suspect some internal or external irritation, and the troubles may be caused by worms. We all know what a splendid thing sulphur is for our pets. It is one of the best and safest blood purifiers. It is not always easy to get our dainty feeders to take their milk or water in which sulphur has been introduced. A good plan is to sprinkle the powder on their coats, say about once a week, and tben, when the cat cleans itself, a certain quan- tity will be swallowed. Don't let the traces of fleas remain in your pussies' coats. The accumulation of this dirt is bad for the skin and fur. It is best to use a small tooth comb. With a little care and attention you will soon make a clearance, and pussy would thank you if she could speak. Many cats are very fidgety when they are being groomed. There is no remedy for this but patience, and after your puss once becomes accustomed to her morning's toilet she soon gets to like, and will even look forward to the luxury. Many fanciers, especially novices, are alarmed when they find dry scaly and scurfy spots on their cats, and imagine they have eczema or mange. This roughness really only proceeds from an over-heated system, probably from over- feeding. Give plenty of grass or green food and apply equal parts of sulphur and vaseline for three days, and then comb with a small tooth comb. Dosing How difficult it is to poultice a cat ! Yet in cases of enteritis and pneumonia it is often the saving of poor puss. For enteritis or gastritis when the stomach becomes tender and distended, make a roller of flannel, wet with tepid water and bind tightly round the abdomen. Over this a piece of oil silk covering to exclude all the air, and over this a roll of dry flannel. This forms a continuous poultice. It must be renewed when it gets cold, and the kitten kept warm. 52 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM A fish bone in a cat's throat is a troublesome obstruction. If it can be pushed down with the finger all well and good, but if not the only thing is to wait and let it dissolve. This generally takes place after about five days. You may have to feed the cat in the meantime. A simple means of lubricating a cat's throat, if it seems sore or swollen, is to butter her paws, she will then lick off the butter just as many times as you put it on. A spoonful of warm salad oil often clears the throat, and after this the cat may have a try to swallow the food from which she had previously turned away. If in giving your puss oil, you grease her coat, apply a little violet powder with your fingers, rubbing it well into the fur. I have also found the papier poudrd sold for the complexion an excellent means of removing greasy sub- stances which are so disfiguring to a cat's coat. After giving worm powders to your cats, I recommend a saucer of hot milk, about an hour afterwards, whether the dose has taken effect or not. The eyes in cats vary very much according to their state of health. I have seen cats' eyes seem half their natural size when puss has been suffering from worms. Stud cats quickly lose the depth of colour and brilliancy of their eyes. But this in no way affects their progeny. I came across a case the other day of a big strong neuter cat who was certainly a victim to a tape worm. We tried various vermifuges in fairly large quantities, but with no results, so I deiermined to experiment with some of Spratt's puppy worm powders, and the pests were speedily got rid of. These powders, however, are much too strong for kittens and must be used with caution even for cats. It is very important to make sure that a dosing for worms has been effectual. For this purpose it is best to shut a cat up after medicine has been given and to place a thin layer of earth in the pan provided for her. Mrs. Neild's Silver "Lord Hampton' Landor t photo, Eating HINTS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT 53 There is a knack in giving medicine to cats. It is always best to have an assistant if your cat is at all difficult to manage. Struggling with a sick animal often does more harm than the medicine to be given can do good. In dosing cats it is essential to consider the age as well as weight, and a young cat and a very old one require smaller doses than middle-aged pussies. Oil has a most deplorable way of imparting its taste and smell to everything it comes in contact with. Try and avoid using it outwardly or inwardly for your pussies. It takes a long time to get rid of a greasiness of coat and fur. Before starting a cat on a course of tonics I should recommend a mild aperient, and one occasionally during the course is often advisable. Neuters If you intend having a cat made neuter you should keep him on low plain diet for two or three days before the operation. Do not hand your pet over to an inexperienced person, but take it to a good veterinary and pay the extra fee for cocaine or chloroform to be used. Opinions differ as to the most suitable age for a cat to be made neuter. I think that from five to eight months is the best time, as kittens gelded when very young do not attain the same fine proportions. After eight months there is more risk to the animal, and the operation ought not to be performed at all if the male has shown any desire to mate. At all times send your puss to a well-qualified veterinary. I have been told on good authority that if a female cat is to be made neuter she ought to be allowed to have one litter before the operation is performed. 54 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM Miscellaneous Do not let those little bits of dry brown accumulations remain at the corners of your cat's eyes, as in time they wear off the fur, and, when removed, bare places disfigure your pet's face. Unless absolutely necessary do not send your puss away from home when ill, but nurse her in her own familiar surroundings, where she will far more likely recover than in a strange place, amongst strangers. I know there is a superstition that it is unlucky ever to weigh your cat or kitten, but I think it is a very useful way of finding out whether your puss keeps in good health. If after taking the weight of my cat, I found him rapidly getting lighter, I should give a course of cod liver oil. This is a specially good thing during the winter months. I find that most cats will lick it up with a relish, but it is best to mix a teaspoonful with fish. If you notice an offensive smell coming from your cat's mouth have a look at his teeth. It is sometimes necessary to have the teeth scaled. There may also be a decayed tooth that needs extraction. If you have had any infectious complaints in your catteries, such as distemper or influenza, after removing your pussies fumigate your cat-house. Close it up as thoroughly as possible, place an old shovel in the centre on the floor containing sulphur. Put a live coal in the powder, and leave it a whole day or night. It is a good plan to afterwards syringe into all cracks and crevices with a strong solution of carbolic acid. I have unlimited faith in Eucalyptus, and in the prepara- tions of the Eucryl Company this is the chief ingredient. I would draw special attention to their Salubrene, which has most valuable antiseptic and deodorising properties. It is not of a corrosive or poisonous nature, and the slight aroma is a most agreeable one. For cleansing and dis- infecting catteries it is splendid. Ill BREEDING AND EXHIBITING HAVING referred in the last chapter to the rearing of kittens and the treatment of Queens and Stud cats, I propose now more especially to confine myself to the various matings and crossing of breeds which are generally considered admissible and advisable. A broad rule may be laid down to start with, namely, that Selfs should not be crossed with Tabby-marked cats or vice versa. Take white cats for instance. It is a great pity to cross them with any other variety as probably broken breeds would be the result. Some fanciers have tried them with Silvers in order to get very pale and un- marked kittens, but I have not heard of any satisfactory results. Black cats may be mated with great success to Blues. I know of many instances where anyhow, one kitten of such parents, has proved to be a beautiful Blue with the deep amber eyes so much desired. I have one in my possession which has taken high honours. Then again an Orange or Tortoiseshell may be crossed with a Black. In fact a really good Black, male or female, is a cat to be culti- vated by fanciers both for breeding and exhibiting purposes. It has been the ambition of many a fancier to breed a Tor- toiseshell Tom and I believe the most likely mode of suc- ceeding is to pair a strong young black male with a Tortoise- shell Queen of more mature age. 1 have never seen or heard of a Long-haired Tortoiseshell Tom, although we have some short-haired specimens in the Fancy. I have had a good deal of experience in breeding Blues, and if it is desired 56 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM to have all good Blue kittens, then keep these clear of any other breed. If bred with Blacks, you must be content with perhaps only one or at most two Blues in a litter. A Blue and a Tortoiseshell may be mated together if Creams are desired and, again, a Blue and a Cream can be crossed for the same purpose. You must run the risk, however, of getting an oddity half blue and half cream, commonly called Blue Tortoiseshell. These are useful for breeding Creams, but they are not desirable for exhibition purposes. The ex- periment of crossing Blues and Silvers cannot be said to be satisfactory ; the blue tinge destroys the purity of the silver tone and very often only light Smokes are the outcome of such matings. These nondescript cats can find no abiding-place in the Show pens for some judges call them Smokes and others declare they can only be judged in the " any other colour " class. Blues mated with Tabbies too often result in Blue Tabbies or the sound solid colour of the blue will be marred by markings. Two Brown Tabbies almost invariably produce a Black in the litter. Very good Brown Tabbies are bred from Tortoiseshells. There is no doubt that Brown Tabbies are amongst the hardiest of long- haired cats and they have more massive limbs and broader skulls. Therefore, if stamina is desired, get some Brown Tabby blood in your strains. A Silver Tabby weak in markings may be crossed with a Black to bring out their density. The great failing in this beautiful breed is too often their blurred appearance and want of distinctness in the tabby marks and this is frequently the result of mating with a Silver. By the way, what a thing of beauty a cat marked like a zebra would be ! Silver Tabbies should not be mated with any other variety of Tabby. The Orange or Red Tabby is an attractive cat though finely marked specimens are scarce and, as is generally known, females of this breed are much rarer than males. Breeders of Tabbies should strive to eradicate white chins which are too much in evidence. Silvers or Chinchillas have had all sorts of ex- periments tried upon them but I think that in this breed, as in Smokes, it is best to keep the purity of colour so beautiful in the Silver and the white undercoat so desirable in the Smoke Persians. In shorthaired breeds it will only be necessary to draw attention to the Siamese, Manx and Blue ! I BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 57 as my remarks regarding the mating of Selfs and Tabbies apply equally to the short- and to the long-haired breeds. Siamese are a special breed to themselves and should be kept as such and the same may be said of Manx and Blues. All attempts to cross these cats with other breeds should be discouraged. It is the laudable ambition of all breeders to become exhibitors, and certainly there is infinitely more honour and glory in winning with a cat or kitten which one has bred than with an animal that money has purchased. I have given some hints in my paragraphs as to the best way of preparing cats for exhibition. There is no doubt that cat fanciers do not pay the same amount of attention to the speci- mens they are intending to send to a show as do members of the dog, rabbit or pigeon fancy. This is a pity, for condi- tion goes so far to propitiate a judge, and a noted winner with almost perfect points may fail to " catch the Speaker's eye" if his coat is knotted and his tail draggled. We generally speak of a Persian cat being out of condition when it is not in good coat, and certainly I should advise such cats being kept at home. There are so many shows held nowadays, that if your puss is shedding her coat at the time of one show, you may reasonably hope she may be in form for the next. A word about judging may be of interest. I find the easiest and quickest way to set about making the awards in a large class is to start by first marking the absent exhibits, then placing a cross against those specimens that could not come within the prize list. After this I search for my winners, and having perhaps brought down the number to about six or seven, I proceed to take the cats from their pens, and if arrangements permit to have two out at a time, so as to make comparisons. For this purpose, judging pens are most useful. In Selfs it is soundness of colour that the judge should first consider ; in Tabbies, the markings must rank first ; in Silvers, according to the dictates of specialists of this breed, paleness of colour is of paramount import- ance. Some judges, however, will be guided by purity of colour and the general shape of body, limbs and head, and darker shadings and tabby markings will be secondary con- siderations. The Blue and Silver classes are perhaps the 58 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM most difficult to judge, and also they are generally the largest. The many specialist clubs have their standard of points (as given in the concluding chapter), but a good judge will bring his experience and his common sense to bear upon the exhibits, and these definitions therefore are likely to be of more service to fanciers, who should always aim at perfection, though they may not attain to it. For the benefit of novices in the fancy, let me say that, before showing a cat at any of the large shows, the first step is to register it with the Club under whose rules the show is held. At the present time the National Cat Club and The Cat Club are at loggerheads over the question of registration, but without entering further into the matter, I would say that it is the earnest hope of all fanciers that in the future one register should be kept. The forms at present used by the respective clubs are here reproduced. To any one with average intelligence the filling in of these is not a difficult matter. If a schedule of the show is not sent to you, apply to the secretary whose name and address will be published in the cat papers. Then read carefully the exhibition rules, and pay special attention to the classification before filling up the entry form, which together with the fee should be forwarded in good time to the secretary. I have given several hints in my paragraphs as to the best modes of packing the pussies both in cold and hot weather, so I would only impress on fanciers to do all in their power to mitigate the discomfort and risk which must always attend a cat travelling alone to and from a show. REGISTRATION The Registration Rules of the National Cat Club are as follows : i. Every Cat exhibited at a show under National Cat Club Rules must (except such as are exhibited exclusively in Local Classes, or exhibited in Classes exclusively for litters of kittens), previous to the tin^e of entry for such show, have been entered in a registry kept by the National Cat Club at their offices. A charge of is. each shall be made for registration. In such registry shall be inserted the name and breed of the cat, and its breeder's name, the date of birth, names of sire and dam, and of grand-sires and grand-dams, and if the dam was served by two or more cats their several names must be stated. If the age, pedigree or breeder's name be not known the cat must be registered as breeder, age or pedigree "unknown," any BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 59 or all as the case may be. If the name of a cat be changed, or an old name re-assumed, such cat must be again registered, and identi- fied before exhibition in its altered name. 2. A name which has been duly registered in accordance with Rule i cannot be again accepted for registration of a cat of the same breed, without the addition of a distinguishing number, prefix or affix, for a period of five years, calculated from the first day of the year next after the one in which the name was last registered ; but the name of a cat after publication in " Our Cats " and the Stud Book, or which has become eligible for free entry therein cannot again be assumed. N.B. The name of a cat that has become eligible for free entry in the Stud Book in any year shall not be changed after the 3ist of December of that year. Cats do not receive a Number on registration. Numbers are only assigned to Prize Winners, or cats entered in the Stud Book on its publication, on payment of a fee of Five Shillings, in addition to One Shilling for registration. The application for Registration must be made on a form as follows : NUMBER OF BREED AS PER LIST IN MARGIN_ COLOUR I wish to register the following Sex? by the name of Previously registered by the name of Signature of Owner Mr. and Mrs. or Miss Address LATE OWNER (if any). SIRE ,G. SIRE_ OWNER OF SIRE 1 G. DAM. DAM jG. SIRE OWNER OF DAM * G. DAM DATE OF BIRTH NAME & ADDRESS OF BREEDER NOTE. If this name cannot be registered, I select one of the following, and name them in the order named : (i) (2) (3) . 6o CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM Only one Cat must be entered on one form, which must be forwarded with a remittance of one shilling to Mrs. A. Stennard Robinson, Hon. Sec., at 5, Great James Street, Bedford Row, London, W.C. The various varieties as recognised by the Club are as follows : SHORT-HAIRED CATS. 1. SIAMESE. 2. BLUE. 3. MANX. 4. FOREIGN. 5. TABBY. 6. SPOTTED. 7. BICOLOUR. 8. TRICOLOUR. 9. TORTOISESHELL. 10. BLACK. n. WHITE. 12. SABLE. 13. TICKS. 14. ABYSSINIAN. LONG-HAIRED CATS, 15. BLACK. 16. WHITE. 17. BLUE. 1 8. ORANGE. 19. CREAM. 20. SABLE. 21. SMOKE. 22. TABBY. 23. SPOTTED. 24. CHINCHILLA. 25. TORTOISESHELL. 26. BICOLOUR. 27. TRICOLOUR. The Rules for Registration in the Cat Club are as follows : In the following Rules the word "CAT" shall be interpreted to include domesticated Cats of both sexes and neuters, and the word " KITTEN " shall be interpreted to include domesticated Kittens of both sexes and neuters, five months old and under eight months old on the first day of the show. RULE i. Every Cat and Kitten exhibited at a Show held under The Cat Club Exhibition Rules must (except such as are exhibited exclusively in local classes), previous to the time of entry for such show, have been entered in the Register kept by The Cat Club for that purpose alone. Registration in any other Club shall not be accepted. A charge of sixpence shall be made for each Cat or Kitten registered. In such Register shall be inserted the name, breed, and colour of the Cat or Kitten, and its breeder's name, the date of birth, name of sire and dam, and of grand-sire and grand-dam. If the age, pedigree, or breeder's name be not known, the Cat or Kitten must be registered as "age, breeder, or pedigree unknown " any or all, as the case may be. If the name of a Cat or Kitten be changed, or an old name be re- assumed, such a Cat or Kitten must be again registered and identi- fied, before exhibition in its altered name, for which a fee of one shilling shall be charged. BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 61 On change of ownership, the transfer of a Cat or Kitten must be registered ; and no Cat or Kitten will be eligible for exhibition at any show held under The Cat Club Exhibition Rules until such registration shall have been made, for which a fee of one shilling shall be charged. The Register shall be published every twelve months at least, and at such prices and in such form as the committee may decide upon from time to time. Registration forms shall be supplied free of charge to breeders, owners, and exhibitors of Cats and Kittens, and also to secretaries and promoters of shows held under The Cat Club Exhibition Rules. RULE 2. A name which has been duly registered in accordance with Rule i cannot be again accepted for registration of a Cat or Kitten of the same breed, without the addition of a distinguishing prefix or affix. RULE 3. Any Cat or Kitten exhibited at a Show under The Cat Club Exhibition Rules, must be the bond-fide property of the Exhibitor in whose name it is entered, and must have been so fourteen clear days before the first day of the show. Each Cat or Kitten must, on the entry form, be clearly identified in accordance with and as required in Rules i and 2 save that the names of the grandparents need not be stated and on such entry form must be a declaration, signed by the exhibitor, that the Cat or Kitten is entered subject to The Cat Club Exhibition Rules. RULE 4. If the name of a Cat or Kitten which has won a prize in a class in any Show held under The Cat Club Exhibition Rules, has been changed ; on entering the said Cat or Kitten for a show, the exhibitor must, on the entry form, give the former name or names, as well as the new name, until the change or changes have been duly published in The Cat Club Stud Book. The name of any Cat or Kitten, after publication in The Cat Club Stud Book, or which has become eligible for entry therein, cannot be changed. RULE 5. If a Cat or Kitten is owned by more than one person, the names of all the owners must be given on the entry forms, and on the registration, change of name, and change of owner forms ; but only one fee shall be charged for each such entry, whatever the number of owners may be. RULE 6. If a Cat or Kitten be entered, except as before directed by Rules i, 2, 3, 4, and 5, such Cat or Kitten shall forfeit any prize that may have been awarded ; and if the error be detected in time, such Cat or Kitten shall not be allowed to compete, and shall, in either case, forfeit all entrance fees and subscriptions save that the General Committee of The Cat Club may, on appeal to them, for good cause shown, remit all or any part of the forfeits herein mentioned. Ill (continued) PRACTICAL HINTS ON BREEDING AND EXHIBITING Breeding and Mating IN selecting a male cat for stud purposes, you should be guided a great deal by the size of head and limbs. A good sire for future generations should possess a massive, well- formed body with broad head. Take especial notice of the width between the ears, and beware of a long nose and face. Very large and pointed ears are most undesirable. It also spoils the appearance of the cat if the ears are very wide at the base. Siamese kittens are always white when born, and gradually their ears, legs, tail, and face darken. The denser these points become the more valuable arc the specimens. A kink in the tail is considered a beauty. Blue eyes are very essential. It is a pity that Siamese cats gradually lose the beautiful pale fawn colour, and their coats darken as they grow older. It is quite the exception to see a grown-up Siamese light in body colour. Never try mating a Siamese with any other breed. Experiments have been made in this respect, but no good results have followed. To novices in the Silver fancy, let me say that they must not be disappointed if after sending their queen to a noted Silver stud, she should produce what appear like very datk smoke, or almost black kittens. These will become lighter BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 63 every day, and it is often the darkest kittens that turn out the palest Silvers. The days of pussy's gestation are about sixty-three, but I generally find it is best to calculate for three days extra, this being counted from the last day of mating. It is always safer after the queen has been on a visit to keep her shut up for a few days. Do not worry if your queens refuse to feed during the time they are mating. When quieted down puss will make up for lost time. If you have a stud cat and receive queens, it is always courteous and kind to write a line to the sender immediately on the arrival of the traveller. Tnus the anxious mind of the owner is set at rest. Then you should give due notice of the time of train by which you are returning the visitor. Avoid despatching a cat on a Saturday. I am not much in favour of mating Blues and Silvers together, as this cross frequently results in Silver Smokes, a sort of nondescript cat that finds no abiding class at our shows, and is also rather an unsatisfactory cat from which to breed. In selecting a stud cat we should consider the points of our queens. It is not always the greatest prize-winner that is the most desirable mate for a particular female. We must pair them according to the good points in one and the defects in the other, and thus we may gain the happy medium. If your queen is wanting in breadth of skull and shortness of face, try to remedy and counterbalance these defects by finding a stud cat with these points strongly developed. Two prize-winning cats may not produce even average good kittens. Of all the breeds of long-haired cats, brown Tabbies may be said to be the strongest. This handsome breed seems coming to the fore. Certainly to a novice in the fancy brown Tabbies are less trouble, by reason of their hardy 64 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM natures. Two brown Tabbies mated together often produce a black in the litter, and generally a very good specimen. Do not let your queens mate before they are nine months old, and it is better to wait another three months if possible. I do not think sufficient attention is paid to the desirability of stud cats and queens being in good coat at the time of mating. It is considered the correct thing to forward your fee for mating at the same time you send your queen. The usual rule in catty circles is to allow a second visit should the first prove unsuccessful, but this cannot be insisted upon, and therefore it is better for the sender to ask if this courtesy will be permitted when writing to announce the despatch of the queen. I have often been asked if I consider that the litters of a Persian queen who has mismated previously with a common cat are in any way affected afterwards. I believe this ques- tion has never been satisfactorily answered, but I know a case in point, and certainly these kittens of a good Persian sire and dam are remarkably poor specimens and are what might be called half-breds. I can only attribute this to the blue female having twice strayed from the paths of virtue previous to the attentions of the prize-winning Persian. If you are purchasing a self-coloured cat, be careful to examine whether it has a white spot or tuft of white hairs on throat or stomach. This is a decided blemish, and repeats itself in future generations. Our best judges consider a white spot should count as a point against a cat entered in a sett-coloured class. This is much fairer to both exhibitor and judge than to relegate a good Blue or Black with the few offending white hairs to the " any other colour class." One of the most difficult cats to breed is a pale Cream, uniform in colour, and having no markings on head and legs. A Tortoiseshell and a Blue often produce good Creams. Mrs. W. Vidal's Orange Persian Male ' Torrington Sunnysides " BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 65 Do not mate tabby-marked cats with self-coloured ones. For instance, a blue Persian queen should be sent to a stud cat of her own colour, or to a Black, not to a brown or orange Tabby. Breeders have lately been crossing Blues with Chinchillas, or Silvers, and some good results have followed, but this should not be attempted if the Silver is at all heavily marked with stripes. In this case the litter might consist of blue Tabbies, and although these are pretty cats for pets, they are useless for breeding or show purposes. I have always considered that the mating of a good amber- eyed Black queen with a pale Blue male is most satisfactory in results. I have seen several examples. In one litter two almost perfect blues and two black, in the other, one blue gem and three blacks. The blues were particularly sound in colour and had the round orange eyes, which are so attractive in black cats. It is not always that the best blue-eyed Whites or orange- eyed Blues are bred from parents who are both possessed of these desirable points, so don't distress yourself if you have an odd-eyed White queen, but send her to a good blue-eyed White stud, and some in your litter may yet have the coi rect-coloured eyes. It is very seldom, if ever, that a Blue stud cat retains the deep tones of orange or yellow in his eyes. These get lighter with age and service. This fact does not, however, affect the progeny. Orange eyes are rarer in Blue cats of a pale tint than in those of darker colour, and it is more difficult to obtain absolute soundness of colour in light Blues than in those of a medium shade. In order to obtain the nice rich tawny colour so desirable in brown Tabbies, one is tempted to try mating with an Orange. I have found, however, that the experiment has resulted in a description of tortoiseshell Tabby which is no good for breeding or showing purposes. If your Tabby queen is rather drab in tone, select a good sire of the golden brown order, and you will be rewarded. E 66 CATS AND ALL ABOUT THEM I would never recommend fanciers to try and breed from a queen that has confirmed snuffles. There is no doubt that the kittens are affected by this complaint in the mother, and are weak and ailing. Snuffles can doubtless be cured in young cats, but when this distressing disease has been of long standing, it is really hopeless. A good tortoiseshell female Persian is a splendid invest- ment, but care should be taken to obtain a really fine specimen. There are several cats called tortoiseshell, which are really tortoiseshell Tabbies, others that have streaks of colour running into each other. A good Tor- toiseshell is a combination of red, yellow, and black patches, without any white. A Tortoiseshell queen can be mated with advantage to a^ost any coloured sire, and her litters may, and probably will, be very varied. I think that even the rising generation in the cat world know how rare a thing is a Tortoiseshell Tom ! It is f ilse economy to purchase cheap and indifferent queens, if you intend to go in for breeding and exhibiting. 1 am inclined to think that more depends on the quality of the dam than the sire. Certain it is that the kittens more frequently take after their mother as regards colour. A Black female mated to a Blue stud seldom has more than one like the father, and I have frequently known the whole litter to be of the mother's dusky hue. It is always advisable before sending your queen to mate to find out the pedigree of the stud she is to visit, so that in-breeding may be avoided. I am not against one mating of father and daughter, or mother and son, for I have known excellent results from this arrangement, but the experiment must not be repeated. Avoid entirely the mating of brothers with sisters. If your young queen has shown signs of wanting to mate more than twice, do not keep her back again, although she may be under a year old. Any one possessing a well marked silver tabby Persian BREEDING AND EXHIBITING 67 female ought to make a point of mating her with a silver Tabby male, avoiding Chinchillas and shaded Silvers, as such a cross weakens the markings, and kittens of the