Ex Libris C. K. OGDEN Crown 8vo., price 7s. 6d. handsomely bound in cloth. ffijje Cambridge Which have obtained the Chancellor's Gold Medal for English Verse. New and enlarged edition, with a fine Engraving and Medal. This volume contains Boadicea, by DR. WHEWELL; Two Poems, Pompeii and Evening, by the late LOKD MACAULAY ; Australasia and Athens, by SIR BULWER LYTTON ; Timbuctoo, by ALFRED TENIHPSON, Poet Laureate; and others by DR. C. WORDSWORTH, F. W. FARRAR, &c., &c., none of which are found in any other collection. CAMBRIDGE : MACMILLAN AND CO., AND 23, HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON. Just Published, in 4to. and 8vo., of Cmkrftje. FIRST VOLUME. Containing upwards of 60 Steel Engravings, same number of Wood Engravings, and 11 Photographs. " This splendid Work has now reached Part XXVII. The Steel Engravings are most exquisite. When complete it will he impossihle to over-estimate its value." Independent Press. "In this Edition Photographs are for the first time introduced. The letter- press entirely re-written hy the different Heads of Houses, and the general Editorship entrusted to a very competent person. We can highly recommend it." The Bookseller. SECOND VOLUME, NOW READY. Just Published, Fcap. 8vo., Price Is. THE iltag Crafeller's HMfe tjmmjjj With seventy Illustrations. TO BE HAD AT ALL THE RAILWAY STALLS. Just Published, Price 2s. 6d. CJrart of % Cambridge gating |5oafe, Lithographed in Colours, shewing their relative position from 1853 to 1861 inclusive. CAMBRIDGE : W. METCALFE, GREEN STREET, AND SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. THE NEW CAMBRIDGE GUIDE, OB HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS, ILLUSTRATED WITH 3 STEEL ENGRAVINGS, 97 WOODCUTS, AND A MAP. PRINTED BY WILLIAM METCALFE, AND SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. 1863. ADVERTISEMENT. This New Edition of the " Cambridge Guide," or " Hand- Book for Visitors," at a low price, contains nearly the same information as the best and larger Edition, published at five shillings. The principal difference being the omission of the eight steel engravings by Le Keux. A coloured lithographic Plan is added, which will enable the Visitor without difficulty to find his way, after leaving the Station, through all the Colleges and principal Buildings ; and the whole being arranged in one continuous walk, he will, by following the order here suggested, best economise his time. CAMBRIDGE, July, 1863. llustrate. [The objects most worthy of attention are distinguished by 8^1 Map of Cambridge to face page 1. Page ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF THE UNIVERSITY . . 1 PRESENT CONSTITUTION OF THE UNIVERSITY COSTUME OF THE UNIVERSITY {?= THE FITZWILLIAM MUSEUM Front view ..... {?=> S- PETER'S COLLEGE East end of Chapel . . . < Second Court , CHURCH OF S. MARY THE LESS . . .37 The East end .... ib. PEMBROKE COLLEGE . . . .38 Front view . . . .39 Part of first Court . . . .40 Part of second Court . . .41 THE PITT PRESS . . . .45 Front view .... ib. S. BOTOLPH'S CHURCH . . .47 (C? QUEENS' COLLEGE . . . . ib. View from the King's Mill . . .48 Entrance gateway . . .49 Erasmus's Tower . . .50 Part of Cloister Court . 51 IV CONTENTS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. Page S. CATHARINE'S COLLEGE . . . .55 Front view .... ib. Entrance gateway . . . .56 Interior of Chapel . . .57 CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE . . .59 Front view .... ib. Entrance gateway . . . .61 The New Court .... 65 Part of Old Court . . . .66 S. BENEDICT'S CHURCH . .67 General view . . . .68 K|? KING'S COLLEGE . . . . 69 Front view . . . .70 The old gateway . . .71 The Hall . . .,-' . . 73 The Provost's Lodge . 76 Exterior of Chapel . . . .77 Interior " ... 79 Pendant keystone . . . .80 Stone panelling . . .81 The Bridge . .' . . .95 S. EDWARD'S CHURCH . .96 General view . . . . ib. CHURCH OF S. MARY THE GREAT . . 97 Exterior view . . . .98 y> SENATE-HOUSE . . . .100 Front view .... 101 Kf* UNIVERSITY LIBRARY . . .104 South front of Senate-House, &c. . . 105 THE SCHOOLS . . 112 CONTENTS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. V Page TRINITY HALL . . . . .113 The old front . . . .114 The new front . . . .115 GEOLOGICAL MUSEUM . . . 118 MlNERALOGICAL MUSEUM . . .119 K$> CLARE COLLEGE . . ,120 The south front .... ib. The Eiver front . . . .122 The River front and Bridge . . .123 View from Clare Hall piece . . 1 25 GONVILLE AND CAIUS COLLEGE . . .126 Gate of Humility. . . . ib. Doorway of Gate of Virtue . . .128 Gate of Virtue . . . .129 Gate of Honour , . . . .130 S. MICHAEL'S CHURCH . . .133 {f> TRINITY COLLEGE . . . .134 Entrance gateway . . .135 Statue of Henry VIII. . . .137 Plan of College . . . .138 Statue of Edward III. . . .139 The great Court . . . .140 Old Combination-room and Hall . . 146 Cloisters under Library . . .149 The new Court . . . .154 Bishop's Hostel . . . .155 Western gateway . ib. The Avenue . . . .156 Iron Gateway .... ib. The Bridge . . . .157 The Master's Court . .160 VI CONTENTS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. Page ALL SAINTS' CHURCH . . .161 PHILOSOPHICAL ROOMS .... 163 {Kf=> S. JOHN'S COLLEGE . . . 164 Entrance gateway . . . . ib. Ashton monument . . .167 Second Court . . . .169 Arcade in third Court . . .170 Interior of new Bridge . . . 171 Gateway, new Court . . .172 Exterior of new Bridge . . .173 Old Bridge . . . .177 Kf* CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE . . 179 Exterior view . . . ib. View before restoration . . . 180 Interior view . . . 181 S. CLEMENT'S CHURCH . . . .183 8^> MAGDALENE COLLEGE . . . .184 The first Court . . . . .185 The Hall . . .187 Pepysian building . . . .189 S. GILES'S CHURCH . . .191 General view . . . .192 S. PETER'S CHURCH . . . .193 THE COUNTY COURTS . . . .194 General view .... ib. CASTLE HILL . . . . .195 Castle gateway tower . . . ib. SCHOOL OF PYTHAGORAS . . . .196 General view . . . ib. ooisTEirrs AND ILLUSTRATIONS, vii Page THE OBSERVATORY . . . .197 General view . . . .198 MADINGLEY HALL .... 199 Old gateway . . . . .200 {tf* JESUS COLLEGE . . . .201 View from the meadows . . . ib. Entrance gateway .... 203 Gateway to second Court . . . 204 Arcade in Tower .... 205 Piscina and Sedilia .... 207 CHRIST CHURCH . . . .210 General view . . . .211 CHURCH OF S. ANDREW THE LESS . . 212 Remains of Priory . . . . ib. STOURBRIDGE CHAPEL . . . 214 SIDNEY SUSSEX COLLEGE .... ib. The north Court . . . .216 View from garden . . . .218 TRINITY CHURCH . . . .219 The Pulpit . . . . .220 CHURCH OF S. ANDREW THE GREAT . . 222 {^> CHRIST'S COLLEGE .... ib. Entrance gateway . . . ib. Bath in the garden . . . .226 Milton's mulberry-tree . . . 227 EMMANUEL COLLEGE .... 228 The street front . . . .229 Eastern arcade .... 230 THE ANATOMICAL MUSEUM . . . 234 General view . . . . ib. viii CONTENTS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. Pa-e DOWNING COLLEGE . The Master's Lodge . ADDENBROOKE'S HOSPITAL General view HOBSON'S CONDUIT General view BOTANIC GARDEN PARKER'S PIECE . The Town Gaol . S. PAUL'S CHURCH TOWN or CAMBRIDGE . PLAN OF CAMBRIDGE. Cltrnent m^ 0r jespli J v " COLt Hj j *f.S9M*r. FT f \\xC^&r-J: W if l&ilfo, I-itfu HAND-BOOK FOE VISITOES TO CAMBRIDGE. 0f BEFORE the Visitor proceeds to view the various build- ings and objects of interest awaiting him in Cambridge, he will naturally wish to hear something of the history of our celebrated University how it came to be what it is, of the directing agencies by which it is governed, and of the various positions, ranks, and duties of its members who make up the harmonious whole ; our Hand-book therefore appropriately commences with a, brief sketch of the general origin and present consti- tution of this venerable seat of learning. Much ingenuity has been displayed in various con- troversies relative to the antiquity of Cambridge as a University; like all other celebrated places it has its legendary or pre-historic annals, according to which its name and foundation are derived from a fugitive Spanish prince named Cantaber, who founded a " city of Scholars" here some centuries before the Christian era, in which the Greek philosophers Anaxagoras and Anaxamander are said to have taught; then we have (of course) connected with its later fabulous history, 2 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. the renowned names of King Lucius, Uterpendragon, and King Arthur, until we come to the middle of the 7th century, when the honour of its foundation, or as some contend its re-foundation, is given to Sigebert, King of East Anglia, who is still commemorated by the University, upon rather vague evidence, as its founder; and it is said again to have been re-founded early in the 10th century, by King Edward the Elder, after the burning of Cambridge by the Danes ; without however attempting to decide upon the claims of our University to an origin thus remote, (and most myths have some germ of truth in them,) there seems good ground for believing that early in the 12th century, during the reign of Henry Beauclerc, Cambridge became a place of resort for both Teachers and Students, and from this period may be dated the earliest dawn, faint and glimmering though it be, of the authentic history of the learned body afterwards incorporated by the style of the " Chancellor, Masters, and Scholars of the University of Cambridge." At this early period there was nothing at all corres- ponding to the present Colleges for the Students, who originally lodged in the houses of the townspeople, but the extortionate charges to which they were subjected caused the erection of hostels, with which the University system may be said to have commenced, for the Students lived together in these buildings under the superin- tendence of University officers, and paid for their own maintenance ; these hostels continued in existence several centuries, and were at one time very numerous; they were gradually absorbed into the Collegiate system, and all traces of them as medieval foundations have long since disappeared. It was not till towards the close of the ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF THE UNIVERSITY. 3 13th century, A.D. 1284, that we meet with the first institution at all answering to our present Collegiate foundations; in that year Hugh de Balsham, Bishop of Ely, who had purchased two hostels in Trumpington Street near S. Peter's Church, placed Scholars in them whom he endowed with certain possessions, thus originating what is now known as Peter House or S. Peter's College ; this plan seems to have been adopted in subsequent foundations, a hostel or tenement was first purchased, and the other buildings subsequently added to form a quadrangle; these earlier institutions were called Houses or Halls, the community of scholars, &c. inhabiting them being styled the Collegium ; thus we have Peter House as above ; Michael House after- wards absorbed into Trinity College; God's House subsequently Christ's College; Clare Hall; Gonville Hall; King's Hall, &c. These were still far from being the complete and noble foundations which now exist in the Colleges of Oxford and Cambridge; their original and uniform type seems to have consisted merely of a plain quadrangle, with two storeys of chambers on three of the sides for the Fellows and Students, the fourth side being occupied by the " Hall range," con- taining the refectory or dining-hall, screened off by a passage from the kitchen and buttery, near which was generally the principal chamber or common room, and above this the Master's single apartment; no grand suites of rooms were then necessary, as the Master was of course unmarried; the few MSS. or books which they were fortunate enough to possess could be kept in chests, so no library was needed ; and as the religious exercises of the students were performed in the parish Church, the advowson of which was always a portion B2 4 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. of these earlier institutions, no Chapel was required. But as time wore on, and new Colleges were established, the plan of these original foundations was much en- larged, the increase of Students demanded independent College Chapels, the multiplication of books required Libraries, and at length when the laws relative to celibacy seemed likely to be relaxed, and the exercise of munificent hospitality became almost a part of the Collegiate system, the residences or lodges of the Masters soon increased to their present palatial dignity, and even the smallest foundation was deemed incomplete unless it had, in addition to rooms for Students, its Chapel, Hall, Library, Master's Lodge, Combination Room, Kitchen, Buttery, &c. We need scarcely say that during all this time our University went on increasing in wealth and magnifi- cence; royal visits were frequently paid to it; Kings became its nursing fathers and Queens its nursing mothers; special charters were bestowed upon it, the earliest in existence dating from the reign of Henry IH., and many important privileges were conceded to it by succeeding monarchs, especially by Edward ILL ; subsequently to this many statutes were framed relating to the government and studies of the place, but no regular code of them was consolidated before the time of Henry VIII., when it was effected under the direction of Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, then Chancellor of the University, and these were revised with many additions in the succeeding reign; Queen Mary set aside this new code and substituted other ordinances under the direction of Cardinal Pole as the Pope's Legate ; these were in turn displaced by Queen Eliza- beth, by whom, chiefly with the aid of Lord Burleigh, ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF THE UNIVERSITY. 5 these important statutes were finally settled, after two revisions, in the thirteenth year of her reign, A.D. 1570 ; and by these the University continued to be governed up to the last few years. In 1614 James I. conferred upon it the privilege of sending two members to Parlia- ment, the right of election being vested in the Members of the Senate. In the contest between Charles I. and his Parliament the University suffered severely, having early declared in the King's favour ; the Colbges aided him by con- tributing nearly all their plate to his cause; and the members who refused to subscribe the Solemn League and Covenant were deprived, and otherwise harshly treated; but the Hanoverian succession was regarded much more favourably here than at the sister University. It is needless to follow in detail the comparatively un- eventful history of the last hundred and fifty years until we come to 1858, when, as is well known, an im- portant Act of Parliament was passed entirely changing the constitution of the University and abolishing the old statutes of the several Colleges; and while we write, a new code is being issued to each of these, more adapted to the advanced requirements and de- mands of the present age, so that we are now in a transitional state. Of the success of these changes the present generation will hardly be able to judge, but we are sure our Visitor will join with us in the fervent prayer that within the walls of our venerable Alma Mater, "true religion and useful learning may for ever flourish and abound." 6 HASD-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Jjmwrt Mt mh tmtMm 0f % Irataiig. OUR University is a society of Students incorporated in the thirteenth year of Queen Elizabeth, by the style and title of The Chancellor, Masters, and Scholars of the University of Cambridge; it embraces in its palpable form seventeen Colleges or societies devoted to the study of every thing pertaining to a liberal education, and to the training up of a supply of men duly qualified for the service of God in Church and State ; the Colleges are all independent corporate bodies, maintained by the endowments of their several founders and benefactors, and governed by their own officers and statutes, but at the same time subject to the paramount laws of the University; they each contribute, according to their size, a certain number of members for the executive and legislative duties of this literary commonwealth, whose place of meeting is called the Senate-House, and all persons who are Doctors in either of the three faculties of Divinity, Law, and Physic; Bachelors of Divinity, Masters of Arts, or Law, having their names upon the University register, have votes in this assembly. The great governing body of the University is called the Council of the Senate ; this was established by the Act 19 and 20 Victoria, cap. 88, and all the laws, graces as they are termed in University language, must emanate from this Council before they can be offered for the approval or rejection of the Senate. It consists of the Chancellor, the Vice-Chancellor, four heads of Colleges, four of the University Professors, and eight other members of the Senate; these are chosen from the electoral roll published annually by the Vice-Chancellor PRESENT CONSTITUTION OF THE UNIVERSITY. 7 shortly after the commencement of the October term. They all hold office for four years, one half (who are eligible for re-election) retiring by rotation every other year ; the election takes place on the 7th of November, and is vested in those members of the University whose names are on the electoral roll. The following are the authorities to whom the executive power of the University is committed: The CHANCELLOR, who is the head of the whole University, and presides over all cases relating to that body, is elected by the Members of the Senate. For many years past this office has been filled by nobles of exalted rank and honourable name, and is now held by His Eo3 r al Highness the Prince Consort : it is only on rare occasions of extraordinary interest that the Chancellor is present in the University; provision is made for the performance of his duties, in his absence, by the appointment of A VICE-CHANCELLOR, who is annually elected on the 4th of November, by the Senate. His office, in the absence of the Chancellor, embraces the execution of the Chancellor's powers, and the government of the University according to its statutes. He must be the Head of some College, and during his continuance in office he acts as a Magistrate for the University, County, and Town. A HIGH STEWARD, who has special power to take the trial of scholars impeached of felony within the limits* of the University, and to hold and keep a Court- leet. He appoints a Deputy by Letters Patent. * The jurisdiction of the University extends a mile every way round, reckoning from any part of the extremities of the town. 8 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. A COMMISSARY, who is an officer under the Chancellor. He holds a court of record for all privileged persons and scholars under the degree of M. A. A PUBLIC ORATOR, who is the voice of the Senate upon all public occasions ; writes, reads, and records the letters to and from the body of the Senate, and presents to all honorary degrees with an appropriate speech. The ASSESSOR is an officer specially appointed by a Grace of the Senate, to assist the Vice-Chancellor in his court. Two PROCTORS, who must be Masters of Arts or Law of three years' standing, and are elected annually on the 1st of October. They attend to the discipline and behaviour of all students under the degree of Master of Arts ; are present at all congregations of the Senate to read the Graces, take the votes upon them and pronounce the result. They are assisted by Two PRO-PROCTORS in that part of their duty which relates to the discipline and behaviour of the Students, and the preservation of public morals. A LIBRARIAN, to whom the management of the Uni- versity Library is confided. A REGISTRAR, who is obliged either by himself or deputy to attend all congregations, and to register their proceedings in the University records; he also has charge of all the University muniments. Two MODERATORS, nominated by the Colleges which present the Proctors, and appointed by Graces of the Senate. They superintend the examinations of the candidates for honours in the Mathematical Tripos or Class list. Three ESQUIRE BEDELLS, whose office is to attend the PRESENT CONSTITUTION OF THE UNIVERSITY. 9 Vice-Chancellor, whom they precede with their silver maces upon all public occasions. The Two MEMBERS whom the University sends to Parliament, are chosen by the collective body of the Senate. The UNIVERSITY COUNSEL are appointed by a Grace of the Senate, and are consulted upon all important legal matters. The SOLICITOR is appointed by the Vice-Chancellor. The SYNDICS are members of special committees of the Senate, chosen to transact all special affairs relating to the University, such as the framing of laws, regulating fees, inspecting the library, buildings, printing, &c. The PROFESSORS have stipends allowed from various sources ; some from the University chest, others from Government, or from estates left for that purpose. Besides these there are the UNIVERSITY PRINTER, the ORGANIST, several LIBRARY ASSISTANTS, the SCHOOL KEEPER, the UNIVERSITY MARSHAL, &c. The several orders in the respective Colleges, are as follows: GEADUATES, being, 1. A MASTER, or HEAD, who is generally a Doctor in Divinity; excepting in Trinity Hall, Caius College, and Downing College, where they may be Doctors in Law or Physic. The Head of King's is styled PROVOST ; of Queens', PRESIDENT ; and of all the rest, MASTERS. 2. FELLOWS, who generally are Doctors in Divinity, Law, or Physic; Bachelors in Divinity; Masters or Bachelors of Arts: and some few Bachelors in Law or Physic. The Fellows are chosen by the Masters and Seniors of the several Colleges from amongst those Scholars who have distinguished themselves in Mathe- 10 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. matical science and Classical learning. They have rooms and commons free of expense, and receive annual dividends of money, according to the several foundations on which they are placed, and varying with the rent of the College estates. The fellowships are, in most instances, tenable for life upon condition, in many of the Colleges, of their possessors entering into Holy Orders, after a few years; but become void by succession to a College Living, or to preferment, or property beyond a certain value. Previous to the re- cent University act fellowships were also vacated by marriage, but that act allows this law to be relaxed in any College, provided two-thirds of the Fellows agree thereto. The number of fellowships in the University is four hundred and thirty. 3. NOBLEMEN GRADUATES, DOCTORS in the several faculties, BACHELORS IN DIVINITY (who have been Masters of Arts), MASTERS or ARTS, and MASTERS OF LAW, who are not on the foundation, but who retain their names on the boards for the purpose of being Members of the Senate. 4. BACHELORS in LAW and in PHYSIC, who sometimes keep their names upon the boards till they become Doctors. 5. BACHELORS OF ARTS, who are in statu pupillari and pay for tuition whether resident or not, and generally keep their names on the boards, either as Scholars, with an intention of offering themselves as candidates for fellowships, or of becoming Members of the Senate. UNDEEGEADUATES, or STUDENTS, being, 1. FELLOW-COMMONERS, who are frequently the younger sons of the nobility, or young men of fortune, PRESENT CONSTITUTION OF THE UNIVERSITY. 11 and have tho privilege of dining at the Fellows' table, whence the appellation originated. 2. PENSIONERS, who form the great body of the Students, and pay for their commons, rooms, &c., and enjoy no pecuniary advantages from the College. 3. SCHOIARS, who are elected on the foundation chiefly by direct examination from the most promising and distinguished of the Students, and generally enjoy rooms rent-free, commons, and pecuniary dividends. The number of scholarships and exhibitions in the Uni- versity is upwards of seven hundred. 4. SIZARS are generally Students of more limited means than the preceding. Those on the foundation usually have their commons free, and receive various emoluments. The government of each College is vested in the Master and Senior Fellows, who appoint several officers from amongst the Fellows, for the education of the Students, and the due administration of all matters be- longing to the well-being of the respective foundations. The TUTORS undertake the direction of the Classical, Mathematical, and other studies of the junior members ; prepare them for the public examinations, and furnish them with advice and assistance in other respects. Many of the Undergraduates have private Tutors, generally Junior Fellows, and Bachelors of Arts. The DEANS take cognizance of the moral conduct of the Students, and enforce regular attendance in hall and chapel. All gross offences against the University or College statutes are followed by expulsion ; minor ones by rustication, (which is banishment for a certain length of time from the University) ; and those of a more trivial nature, by fines, or literary tasks, termed 12 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. impositions. The LECTURERS assist in tuition, and especially attend to the exercises of the Students in Greek and Latin Composition, Themes, Declamations, Verses, &c. The BURSARS have the management of the College estates and other revenues. The STEWARDS attend to the interior concerns and repairs of the Colleges. The CHAPLAINS read Prayers; and in those Colleges that have choirs, singing clerks, choristers, and an organist belong to the foundation. Iratottg THERE are few objects that attract the stranger's notice more than the various academical dresses worn by the members of the University. We shall, therefore, endeavour to give an account of them with as much clearness and fidelity as a written description will allow. A Doctor in Divinity has three robes ; fhejlrst, a gown made of scarlet cloth, with ample sleeves terminating in a point, and lined with rose-coloured silk, which is worn in public processions, and on all state and festival days : the second is the cope, worn at Great S. Mary's during the service on Litany-days, in the Divinity Schools during an Act, and at Conciones ad Clerum; it is made of scarlet cloth, and completely envelopes the person, being closed down the front, which is trimmed with an edging of ermine ; at the back of it is affixed a hood of the same costly fur: the third, is a gown made of black silk or poplin, with full round sleeves, and is the habit commonly worn in public by a D.D. : Doctors, however, sometimes wear a Master of Arts' gown, with a silk scarf. These several dresses UNIVEESITY COSTUME. 13 are put over a black silk cassock, which covers the entire body, around which it is fastened by a broad sash, and has sleeves coming down to the wrist, like a coat. A handsome scarf of the same material, which hangs over the shoulders, and extends to the feet, is always worn with the scarlet and black gowns. A square black cloth cap, with silk tassel, completes the costume. Doctors in Law and Physio have two robes : the first is the scarlet-gown, as just described, and the second, or ordinary dress of an LL.D., is a black silk gown, with a plain square collar, the sleeves hanging down square to the feet : the ordinary gown of an M.D. is of the same shape, but trimmed at the collar, sleeves, and front with rich black silk lace. A Doctor in Music commonly wears the same dress as an LL.D. ; but on festival and scarlet days is arrayed in a gown made of rich white damask silk, with sleeves and facings of rose-colour, a hood of the same, and a round black velvet cap with gold tassel. Bachelors in 'Divinity, and Masters of Arts wear a black gown made of bombazine, poplin, or silk. It has sleeves extending to the feet, with apertures for the arms just above the elbow; and may be distin- guished by the shape of the sleeves, which hang down square, and are cut out at the bottom like the section of a horse-shoe. Bachelors in Law and Physic wear a gown of the same shape as that of a Master of Arts. All Graduates of the above ranks are entitled to wear a hat, instead of the square black cloth cap, with their gowns, and the custom of doing so is generally adopted except by the HEADS, Tutors, and University 14 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. and College Officers, who consider it more correct to appear in the full academical costume. A Bachelor of Arts' gown is made of bombazine, poplin, or silk, with large sleeves terminating in a point, with apertures for the arms just below the shoulder-joint, and silk strings appended to the shoulders. Bachelor- Fellow-Commoners usually wear silk gowns, and square velvet caps. The caps of other Bachelors are of cloth. All the above, being Graduates, when they use sur- plices in chapel, wear over them their hood's, which are peculiar to the several degrees. The hoods of Doctors are made of scarlet cloth, lined with rose- coloured silk; those of Bachelors in Divinity, are of black silk ; those of Masters of Arts and of Laws, and Bachelors of Physic, of black silk lined with white ; and those of Bachelors of Arts, of black serge, trimmed with a border of white lamb's wool. The dresses of the Undergraduates, are the following : A Nolleman has two gowns ; the first, in shape like that of the Fellow-Commoners, is made of purple ducape, very richly embroidered with gold lace, and is worn in public processions, and on festival-days: a square black velvet cap with a very large gold tassel is worn with it : the second, or ordinary gown, is made of black silk, with full round sleeves, and a hat is worn with it. The latter dress is worn also by the Bachelor- Fellows of King's College. A Fellow- Commoner wears a black prince's stuff gown, with a square collar, and straight hanging sleeves, which are decorated with gold lace ; and a square black velvet cap with a gold tassel.- The Fellow-Commoners of Emmanuel College wear a similar gown, with trimmings on the sleeves : UNIVERSITY COSTUME. 15 those of Trinity College have a purple prince's stuff gown, adorned with silver lace, and a silver tassel is attached to the cap : at Downing the gown is made of black silk, of the same shape, ornamented with tufts and silk lace ; and a square cap of velvet with a gold tassel is worn. At Jesus College, a Bachelor's silk gown is worn, plaited up at the sleeve, and with gold lace from the shoulder to the bend of the arm. At Queens' a Bachelor's silk gown, with a velvet cap and gold tassel, is worn : the same at Corpus and Magdalen; at the latter it is gathered and looped up at the sleeve; at the former (Corpus) it has velvet facings. Married Fellow-Commoners usually wear a black silk gown, with full round sleeves, and a square velvet cap with silk tassel. The Pensioner's gown and cap are mostly of the same material and shape as those of the Bachelor's: the gown differs only in the mode of trimming. At Trinity and Caius Colleges the gown is purple, with large sleeves terminating in a point. At S. Peter's and Queens', the gown is precisely the same as that of a Bachelor's with the exception 01 silk strings; and at King's the same, but made of fine black woollen cloth. At Corpus Christi is worn a B.A. gown, with black velvet facings. At Trinity Hall the gown is made of black bombazine, with large sleeves, looped up at the elbows. Bachelors of Arts and Undergraduates are obliged by the statutes to wear their academical costume con- stantly in public, under a penalty of 6s. 8d, for every omission. Very few of the University Officers have distinctive dresses: The Chancellor's gown is of black damask silk, very richly embroidered with gold. It is worn 16 HAND-BOOK FOE VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. with a broad, rich lace band, and a square velvet cap with large gold tassel. The Vice- Chancellor dresses merely as a Doctor, except- ing at congregations imthe Senate-House, when he wears a cope. When proceeding to S. Mary's, or elsewhere, in his official capacity, he is preceded by the three Esquire Bedells with their silver maces, which were the gift of Queen Elizabeth. The Regius Professors of Civil Law and of Physic, when they preside at Acts in the Schools, wear copes, and round black velvet caps with gold tassels. The Proctors generally wear bands, otherwise they are not distinguishable from other Masters of Arts, excepting at S. Mary's Church, and at congregations, when they wear cassocks and black silk ruffs, and carry the Statutes of the University, being attended by two servants, known in University parlance as " Bull- dogs," dressed in large blue cloaks ornamented with gold lace buttons. The University has gone on steadily increasing in numbers during the last hundred years, as may be seen by the following comparative view of members on the boards: In 1748 there were 1500, " 1819 " " 3698, " 1829 " " 5145, " 1839 " " 5628, " 1849 " " 6906, " 1859 " " 7571. By the recent Act of Parliament an entirely new feature has been introduced into the old University THE FITZWILLIAM MUSEUM. 17 system, allowing the institution of private hostels for the reception of Students, unattached to any College, but participating in all the privileges of the University ; such hostel to be under the direction of a Principal licensed by the Vice-Chancellor. The only establishment at present under this statute, is Dr. Humphry's hostel for Medical Students. Brief as our sketch is, it will probably suffice the ordinary Visitor, and give him a general idea of the origin and constitution of the University : those who may wish for information upon Academical matters, such as the course of study, University prizes, methods of proceeding to degrees, expenses, and the like, we refer to the Cambridge Calendar, which gives ample and reliable information upon all these points. And now, Supposing our Visitor to have arrived in Cambridge, we propose to guide him, as nearly as possible by a consecutive route, to every object of in- terest in the University and Town, and we select as the most convenient spot for commencing our peram- bulation the south end of Trumpington Street, where on the western side we pause before the noble and striking front of Regulations for admission ; open from ten to four : upon Tues- days, Thursdays, and Saturdays, all persons respectably dressed are admitted ; on other days it is necessary to be accompanied by a Graduate of the University. No gratuity allowed. The Library is open only to Graduates of the University, but they have the privilege of introducing any number of friends. 18 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. TITZWILLIAM MVSKUM. FOR this, by far the most imposing of the modern architectural decorations of Cambridge, the University is indebted to the munificence of one of its members, Eichard Viscount Fitzwilliana, M.A. of Trinity Hall, who died February 5th, 1816, and bequeathed to the University his paintings, drawings, prints, books, and works of art, together with 100,000 South Sea stock, the dividends of which were to be expended in the erection of a Museum for the reception of his whole collection. For several years the collection occupied temporary rooms, first in the Free School and then in the University Library, during which time the funds were accumulating, and the present excellent site, then occupied by mean buildings, was purchased of S. Peter's College ; in 1837 Mr. Basevi, the architect whose designs were selected, commenced the building, the first stone being laid by the Vice-Chancellor on the 2nd of November in that year. The work was carried on for more than seven years, and the exterior, the picture galleries, and the sculpture room on the ground floor, nearly finished as we THE FITZWILLIAM MUSEUM. 19 now see them ; when, in October, 1 845, the accomplished architect met with a melancholy death by falling through the roof of the tower of Ely Cathedral. Mr. Cockerell, the architect of the new University Library, was appointed to carry on the work, and from his designs the entrance hall, cupola, and fittings of the library- were executed ; it was then found that the accumulated dividends of the Fitzwilliam fund were exhausted, and the works were suspended until farther accumulations will allow the entire completion of the architect's designs, which it is expected will now be shortly accomplished, after which the annual proceeds will become available for the purchase and addition of such works of art as may seem necessary to maintain the character of the collection; the important object however is fulfilled of completing the galleries for the permanent reception of the paintings, which were finally removed here in 1849. Upon the architectural features of this beautiful building it is scarcely necessary to remark, as they will at once impress themselves upon the Visitor ; it is generally admitted to be unrivalled in this country as a successful example of the pure classical style; few can fail to admire the dignity of the noble Corin- thian portico, imitated from the Pantheon at Rome, the richness of the carved capitals, the grandeur of the elevation, the elegance of the proportions, and the beautiful and appropriate finish imparted to the whole by the bold group of sculpture in the pediment, re- presenting Pegasus and the nine muses ; this was ex- ecuted by Nicholl, and adds greatly to the general effect. The building and its adjacent grounds occupy a frontage of rather more than three hundred and fifty feet, its height is about seventy-five feet, and the c2 20 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. actual cost, including fittings, &c., up to this time has been 91,550, in addition to the site for which 9,645 was paid. In addition to the Fitzwilliam bequest, this building contains The MESMAJT collection of two hundred and forty- eight paintings, bequeathed to the University by the late Daniel Mesman, Esq. A very valuable series of ancient marbles, chiefly collected in Italy by John Disney, Esq., and presented by him to the University in 1850. Thirty-four casts of some of the finest works of ancient art, the Laocoon, Dying Gladiator, Farnese Hercules, &c., presented by John Kirkpatrick, Esq. An interesting collection of antiquities of the pre- historic, Roman, and mediaeval periods, chiefly found in the neighbourhood, belonging to the Cambridge Antiquarian Society ; and several other valuable works of art which have from time to time been presented to the Museum. Entering from the street through the handsome bronze gates which cost 1600, we ascend a broad flight of steps ; the Visitor should pause beneath the portico to admire the beautiful ceiling and the colonnade ; reaching the entrance hall, which occupies an area of seventy feet by forty, and is still in a very unfinished state, he will find three sides of it occupied by an open gallery approached by the great staircase, at the foot of which are two casts of Caryatides or pillar statues; on the south side of this gallery the principal objects worthy of notice are, a fine Egyptian Sarcophagus of red granite; an Egyptian Mummy, the case painted with hieroglyphics ; and a bust of Mr. Basevi the architect : THE FITZWTLLIAM MUSEUM. 21 on the west side in niches Canova's Venus and Hebe ; a coffin lid of the 12th century, and several fine casts : on the north side, a white marble Sarcophagus of the 2nd century found in Crete; a curious statuette of an Indian Bacchus ; and a very interesting lid of an Egyptian Sarcophagus brought home by Belzoni, sup- posed to be of the 13th century, B.C. The bas reliefs around this hall are chiefly casts from the * Elgin marbles, and from the temple of Apollo at Phigalia. The doorway facing the staircase leads us to the LAEGE EOOM or principal picture gallery, a noble room sixty-eight feet by thirty-nine, and fifty-four feet high, the beautiful cupola of which is particularly worthy of attention : here are arranged, very judiciously according to their various schools, nearly all the Fitzwilliam pictures and others which have from time to time been presented by various donors; the collection contains some of the best specimens of the Italian masters, and is particularly rich in the Dutch school ; our limits will not allow us to enumerate all the pictures of merit, but we will endeavour to point out some of those most worthy of notice their arrangement commences at the farther left-hand corner, beginning with the Holy Family, S. Catharine, and S. Barbara. OLD PALMA. A rich and beautiful painting, the figures very expressive, and the pillars and landscape in the background very care- fully finished. The Angel appearing to Elijah, and Christ calling to Zaccheus, by the same master, grandly conceived and coloured with great force and richness. Virgin and Child, and S. John. ALBERTINELLI. The ex- pression of the Virgin holding the apple is full of maternal tenderness, and the whole painting very bright and clear. 22 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. The Adoration of the Shepherds. GIORGIONE. A fine specimen of the Venetian School both in taste and colouring, the Virgin is full of grace and sweetness, and the infant Saviour especially, very beautiful. S. Joseph is seated on the left of the Virgin, and one of the Shepherds leaning over the Holy Child is nobly drawn. The Holy Family and S. Catharine. BONIFACIO. S. Joseph looking on ; the expression of the infant Saviour peculiarly sweet and innocent. Portraits of three Venetian Ladies. SCHOOL OF PALMA. Rich in tone and gracefully conceived. The Circumcision. SEBASTIAN DEL PIOMBO. A fine and striking painting, the High Priest stands in the centre, in the rich robes of his office, behind the infant Christ ; the Virgin on his left hand with a sweet matronly expression. Portrait of one of the Visconti. BOLTRAFFIO. Bright and highly finished, well worthy of notice. Portraits of Philip II. of Spain andofthe Princess D'Eboli. TITIAN. Lord Fitzwilliam paid 1000 for this picture, a magnificent specimen of the painter's finest style, and full of the warm golden tone which is his chief characteristic. Mercury, Herse, and Aglauros. PAUL VERONESE. Mercury touches Aglauros with his caduceus and changes her into a stone, for being jealous of her sister Herse. A beautiful picture painted in the delicate silvery tone in which this master is unrivalled. A Sybil. PASINELLI. Soft and graceful with great richness of tone. S. John in the Wilderness. GAROFALO. Richly coloured. The face of S. John very expressive and characteristic. Five views of Venice. CANALETTO. The Church of S. Maria della Salute must especially strike the observer ; the marble palaces and temples are looking through the pure clear sky, and the water of the canal almost sparkles in the bright sunshine. Jflomtfhw Skfjool. Holy Family, S. John, and Simeon. LEONARDO DA VINCI. An exquisite gem, the colouring warm and brilliant. THE FITZWILLIAM MUSEUM. 23 Ecce Homo. SCHOOL OP L. DA VINCI. The Saviour with hands crossed and a cord round His neck. The painting soft and delicate. The expression full of gentleness and melancholy. Virgin and Child. MELZI. Madonna. CARLO DOLCE. Shews softness and delicacy with tenderness of expression and brilliant colouring. (&tnBt&t j$.tlj00I. Abraham journeying to the land of Canaan. CASTIGLIONE. A beautiful picture, with great clearness of tone and careful execution. Christ and the Angel appearing to the Virgin Mary. L. CARACCI. A very noble picture, though there is some doubt of its being a production of Caracci's. Holy Trinity. ANNIBAL CARACCI. Very fine. S. Roch and the Angel. ANNIBAL CARACCI. A beautiful and powerful picture, and a fine specimen of the painter's vigorous style. Vision of Ezekiel. GIULIO ROMANO. Wonderful for its bright- ness, delicacy, and high finish. S. Cecilia. SCHOOL OF RAPHAEL. Soft, refined, and brilliant. Marcus Curtius leaping into the Gulf. PANNINI. Gives a fine view of the Amphitheatre, &c. Jttfcjf c|[00l. A Lady holding a plate. SCHALKEN. Beautifully painted, as is also a Portrait, said to be Louis XIV., by the same artist. View of the Cathedral at Haarlem. BERKHEYDEN. Painted with great force and minuteness. Boor playing at the door of a little Cabin. OSTADE. Highly finished and displaying great truth of expression. A pair of Landscapes with horses, figures, and coics. KUYP. Ex- cellent specimens of this master, and the most pleasing pictures of their kind in the collection. The Wise Men's Offering. POELEMBURG. A beautiful little picture, smooth and bright. 24 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Landscape and Figures. By the same Artist. Very worthy of notice. Tancred's servant presenting the heart of Guiscard in a gold cup to Guismond. A. VANDBRWERF. Very fine, and highly finished. A boy offering cakes at the door of a house. A Wake with figures dancing, $c. Portrait of the Painter, his Wife, and Son. JAN STEEN. Three capital examples of this artist's charming genre pictures, full of variety, spirit, and truth. A Storm at Sea. VANDEVELDE. A very fine painting, force and truth pervade every part of the appalling scene, the swell and curl of the waves is drawn with exquisite fidelity, and the lightning breaking out behind the dark clouds in the centre is very fine. Landscape with cattle and figures, a cascade with a view of the river Tiber, $c. J. BOTH. The figures by his brother Andrew. A noble picture, in composition, colouring, light, and shade, displaying all the beauties which characterise this very pleasing painter ; the scenery is rich and full of variety. Old Woman's market-stall. W. MIERIS. An extraordinary painting ; the finishing, even to the scales of the fish, dis- tinct and delicate, the whole perfect to the minutest detail. Stable, with managed Horses. A Wake with figures regaling them- selves. Landscape, and horses drinking. Three good examples of P. WOTIVERMANN, exceedingly spirited and very delicately finished ; they each contain his well-known white horse. Dutch Courtship. F. MIERIS. A beautiful little picture, highly finished in a rich golden tone. Schoolmaster and Scholars. GERARD Douw. A fine example of this admired master ; the light and shade admirable, and the whole carefully and minutely finished. The Market Woman with a basket of apples and a flower-pot, ig another exquisite specimen of the same artist. Old Woman combing a girl's hair. BREKJBLENCAMP. Clever, natural and humourous. Two admirable Cattle pieces by CLOMP the pupil of Paul Potter. Portrait of a Dutch Officer. REMBRANDT. This fine painting is generally considered the gem of the collection. Dr. Waagen speaks of it as "a picture of extraordinary power, which with excellent modelling in the details, combines astonishing THE FITZWTLLIAM MUSEUM. 25 warmth of the general tone." It is signed and dated 1635, and for taste in colouring, rich depth, and glowing harmony, is inferior to none of the productions of this great master. Portrait, supposed to be of Rembrandt, holding a picture, is an ex- cellent work by the same distinguished painter. [N.B. These two paintings hang in the centre of the west side of the room just opposite the entrance.] JXemisfj A Stag Hunt. SNYDERS. A fine and animated hunting-scene, full of eager expression and forcible execution. A Larder with game, by the same master. A fine large painting, clearly and beautifully coloured it includes a capital figure of a female by RUBENS. Old Woman paring apples. D. TENIERS. The scene is in a farm- house in Holland. A man is about to feed the sow, part of whose head is just visible over the edge of the stye. A thoroughly characteristic painting of this inimitable artist, full of his peculiar humour and admirable truth of delineation. Herodias's daughter with the head of S. John the Baptist in a charger. OLD FRANK. Powerfully coloured and worthy of careful examination. Peasants in a wood presenting game to a Lady and Gentleman on horseback. ROLAND SAVERY. A choice and spirited picture. Portrait of Grayer, by himself. A carefully finished picture in a subdued warm tone. Portrait of a Man, CORNELIUS DE Vos. Very admirable and is considered to be the painter's chef-d'oeuvre. Game, Fruit, and Flowers. WEENINX. Admirably painted, the fur of the hare is especially noticeable for its exquisite truthfulness and delicacy. Jfrmfj JSrjwoI. Landscape with Satyrs, 8$c. GASPAR POUSSIN. A small but very fine picture, with great clearness of colouring. Rebecca and Abraham's servant at the well. NICHOLAS POUSSIN. Landscape. VANDERMEULEN. A beautiful painting. Conversation, a pair. WATTEAU. Possess great merit, especially in their high colouring and exquisite finish. 26 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. (Herman &t|jo0I. Christ in the Temple. DIETRICHY. Full of life and very clearly coloured. The Annunciation, with fine interior view of a Church. ALBERT DTJRER. A bright and brilliant picture, and a very interesting example of this grand old master. Cupid and Psyche* ELZHEIMER. Very forcibly coloured and from its size an important picture of this rare and pleasing master, whose paintings were generally on a very small scale. A Study, and Venus, by the same, are two of his most exquisite and highly finished minute cabinet pictures. The Transfiguration. Artist unknown. An early and curious painting the figures very expressive and the colouring rich it deserves careful attention. Portrait of Fiammingo, a Sculptor. VELASQUEZ. Full of freshness and reality a fine example of this Spanish master whose works are so rare in this country. Portraits of Luther and Melancthon. HOLBEIN. Two highly finished paintings on wood of these celebrated reformers by this well-known artist Passing through the archway on the left-hand side of the large room we enter the SOUTH ROOM, where the eye is at once arrested by the noble picture of the Martyrdom of 8. George, a copy by CAGLIARI of a painting by PAUL VERONESE, forming an altar-piece at Yerona, and well worthy of notice; in the same room is an admirable full length likeness, by SAYE, of H.R.H. Prince Albert in his robes as Chancellor of the Uni- versity, presented by him to the University ; here are also portraits of William Pitt by GAINSBOROUGH, of Dr. Samuel Parr and of Nollekem the Sculptor ; we now enter the SOUTH PICTURE G-ALXERY containing the MESMAN Collection, from which many of the choicest paintings have been taken to be arranged under their several schools in the large room, but it still contains many THE FITZWILLIAM MUSEUM. 27 pictures of interest; it is especially rich in paintings of Flowers, Insects, and Reptiles by DE HEEM, VAN KESSEL, MASSAEUS, and others. There are also portraits of the Earl of Leicester by ZUCCHERO; of Pope by EICHARDSON ; of a Dutch Lady by P. VANDERWERF ; of Himself by VAN LEYDEN, &c., &c. Other noticeable pictures are Bacchus and Ceres by S. EICCI ; S. Francis by CIGOLI ; Landscapes by VAN LINT, and several others of the Dutch School. Girl with a cat by PIAZZETTA ; Madonna by CARLO CIGNANI; Emblem of Mortality by VELASQUEZ; View on the Rhine by VOSTERMAN; and various others worthy of attention, for which we must refer the Visitor to the catalogues provided in the room. In the centre of this gallery is a most beautiful model in ivory of the Tdge Mahal, a mausoleum situated on the right bank of the river Jumna, close to Agra, erected by the Emperor Shah Jehan over the remains of his Empress, whose tomb stands under the centre of the dome ; she died in 1631. The material is of red stone and white marble, and its repairs alone cost the East India Company some forty-five years since 10,000. This model which is on a scale of a quarter of an inch to a foot was presented to the Museum by the late Eichard Burney, Esq. of Christ's College. Eetracing our steps through the large room we come, in the NORTH BOOM, upon a very noble picture of the Salutation of the Virgin by MANZUOLI, the expression of the three principal figures, S. Mary, the aged Eliza- beth, and Zaccharias, is very forcibly rendered, and the young woman behind the Virgin with a basket on her head is beautifully drawn. To the left is a fine large painting, the Fowl Market by JAN DE EHENI, the numerous subjects are beautifully arranged and the 28 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. plumage of the birds very bright and faithful the dog barking at the cat on the right-hand side, and another cat seizing the heron's neck in the left-hand corner, are very true to nature : entering the NORTH GALLERY we find here arranged various portraits of the donor's family ; of these the most worthy of notice are a full length of Sir William Fitzwilliam, attributed to HOLBEIN ; Thomas Viscount Fitzwilliam and Margaret Viscountess by CORNELIUS JANSSEN; and Lady Eleanor Holies wife of Oliver Viscount Fitzwilliam by SIR PETER LELY ; here is also a painting by NETSCHER of The first pine apple grown in England, temp. Charles II. ; and at the further end of the room, the most recent acquisition of the Museum, a beautiful painting of the Temple of Basses by LEAR. If the Visitor has time he should particularly examine the exquisite paintings in this gallery of the Mosaics from the east ends of seven of the ancient churches in Rome ; they were presented by C. R. Cockerell, Esq., are beautifully and faithfully rendered, and contain quite a mine of early Christian symbolism. Descending from the galleries to the basement, the south wing is occupied by the noble LIBRARY, which contains upwards of seven thousand volumes of choice and splendid books in beautiful condition, five hundred and twenty large volumes of engravings, numerous valuable MSS. and Missals, many of them richly and brilliantly illuminated. Here is also the noblest collection of MS. Music in the kingdom excepting Her Majesty's. The Engravings consist of several very fine series, such as the Dresden Gallery, the Museo Pio Clementino, Claude's Liber Veritatis, the Houghton collection, a nearly complete set of Eembrandt's etchings, several THE FITZWILLIAM MUSEtTM. 29 of Albert Durer's, and two cases filled with Marc Antonio's. The illuminated MSS. form a truly beautiful collection, many of them exquisite specimens of mediaeval art one of them, a Latin Psalter a very fine example of the 13th century; and there are others, chiefly Bibles and Service Books of the Church, of the 14th and 15th centuries, gorgeous with gold and azure, ruby, and green as the choicest of these are displayed and labelled under glass cases for the benefit of visitors it is unnecessary to describe them. We now enter the SCULPTURE GALLERY, occupying the entire basement range of the west side of the Museum, the centre portion of which contains the valuable marbles known as the Disney collection, consisting of antique statuettes, busts, sarcophagi, and cinerary urns ; every one of these deserves careful ex- amination, for all are valuable examples of early art, but amongst those considered most worthy of notice are : 5. Piping Silenus and his dog. 9. Bust of Jupiter Serapis bearing the Modius. 1 1 . Bust of Mercury. 18. Bust of Octavianus Augustus Caesar very beautiful. 26. Bust of Marcus Aurelius. 31 and 33. Heads of Pan. 39. A remarkable Etruscan square cinerary urn. 41. Sarcophagus representing scenes from the life of Achilles. 43. A solid urn very boldly carved. 44. Cinerary urn probably to some Roman Sailor. 46. Sarcophagus with sculptures from the early life of Bacchus. In this room also are a statue of Silence in white marble by Albertoni of Borne, bequeathed by G. S. Maude, Esq., and a beautiful statuette "Hercules re- posing" by EOUBILLIAC from the Fitzwilliam collection. The rooms at the north and south ends of this 30 HA2TD-BOOK FOE VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. gallery are devoted to the fine series of casts of the most celebrated statues of antiquity, presented by John Kirkpatrick, Esq., these are too well known to require description : in the north room will be found the fine statue of Meleager, the Capitoline Antinous, Laocoon, Quoit-player, Dying Gladiator, Farnese Hercules, Apollo Belvidere, &c., &c., and a bust by BATLY of the late Professor Smythe, and of Bishop Maltby by BEHJTES the south room contains among others the Townley Venus, Venus de Medici, Knife-grinder, Elgin Theseus, Sleeping Faun, Fighting Gladiator, Venus of Milo, &c. The lover of antiquities should not fail to visit the unfinished north basement room ; here he will find the choice collection of the Cambridge Antiquarian Society, consisting of antiquities of all periods found in the neighbourhood ; there are stone hatchets illustrating the pre-historic age, a goodly muster of celts, spear-heads, and other remains of the bronze period ; an interesting series of weapons illustrating the iron age ; a fine collec- tion of Eoman, Anglo-Saxon, and mediaeval pottery, glass, and personal ornaments, shewing how rich East Anglia is in such remains, and the care now taken to preserve them. Having now completed our survey of the Museum, on leaving it we turn to the left and presently come to COMMONXY called Peterhouse, the oldest Collegiate foundation in Cambridge, founded by Hugh de Balsham, Bishop of Ely, who purchased two hostels in Trumping- * The Porter's Lodge is on the left-hand side of the entrance gateway. s. PETER'S COLLEGE. 31 ton Street, and, having in 1284 obtained a royal licence for that purpose, transferred thither certain scholars PART OP THE CHAPEL AND FELLOWS* BVILDISG. whom he had previously placed in S. John's hospital ; at his death he bequeathed 300 marks for enlarging the College, which bequest his executors carried into effect by purchasing a piece of land on the south side of 32 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. what was then called S. Peter's Church, from whence the College derives its name> and upon which they erected suitable buildings. This College, which has nothing particularly striking in its external appearance, consists of three courts. The first Court, which fronts the street, is separated from the second by the cloister and chapel, and has the library on the south, and a stone building on the north, erected about 1738, containing the Fellows' apartments. In the centre of this Court stands the Chapel, which partakes of the Italian Gothic style of the 16th and 17th centuries, and measures about fifty-five feet long, twenty-seven broad, and as many high; unpleasing and debased as it appears to us in these days of the purer Gothic revival, it is an interesting example of the partiality for pointed forms and details which lingered so long after the introduction of the classical styles. It was consecrated by Dr. Francis White, Bishop of Ely, in March, 1632-3; and was highly embellished, and the service conducted with a very imposing ritual, under the Master Dr. Cosin, after- wards Bishop of Durham, and this caused his deprivation and the chapel to be despoiled of many of its ornaments during the great rebellion. In the report of that furious iconoclast, William Dowsing, who visited the Chapel in December, 1643, are these words: "We pulled down two mighty great angels with wings, and divers other angels, and the four evangelists, and Peter with his keys over the chapel-door, and about 100 cherubims and angels, and divers superstitious letters in gold, and six angels in the windows." The coved ceiling is richly carved and gilt, and the canopied stalls and dim solemnity of the edifice give it something of a cathedral s. PETER'S COLLEGE. 33 air. On the north, wall is a monument to the memory of Dr. Joseph Beaumont, Master of the College, who died in 1699 ; at the west end is a gallery, containing an organ, given by Sir Horatio Mann. The altar-screen is of Norway oak : over it is a fine window of painted glass, deeply coloured, representing the Crucifixion, which was saved from destruction when Dowsing visited the chapel by being concealed in boxes ; the principal figures, which are nearly as large as life, are copied from the famous picture of ETTBENS on the same subject, at Antwerp; the groups at the sides are said to be from a design by L. LOMBARD. During the last six years all the side windows have been filled with painted glass executed by PROFESSOR AIMMTJLLER of Munich, the subjects beginning at the north-west window are (1) The Sacrifice of Abraham. (2) Moses with the Tables of the Law. (3) The Preaching of 8. John the Baptist. (4) Adoration of the Shepherds. (5) The Resurrection. (6) Peter and John at the beautiful gate of the Temple. (7) Paul before Agrippa. (8) Stoning of S. Stephen. Very beautiful they are as works of art, and their ex- quisite drawing and richness of tone must strike every one ; still it is questionable whether the true principles of glass painting are carried out when they are made, as in this instance, identical with painting on canvas and other opaque substances. Choral service is per- formed here on Saturday and Sunday evenings, and on the eves and evenings of Saints' days. The Library, which runs parallel with the south side of the Chapel, was erected in the latter half of the 16th century; it is spacious, and contains a collection of about six thousand printed books, many of an early date. Archbishop Whittlesey, who died in 1374, left r> 34 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. the whole of his Library to the College, and it was frequently increased by subsequent donations; among others Bishop Cosin, formerly Master, gave to the value of 1000 in books, and was otherwise a con- siderable benefactor to the College. There are several MSS., some of them very valuable: among them are transcripts of the works of Aristotle and Albertus Magnus; of Horace, Terence, Virgil's Georgics, and Cicero's Tusculan Questions ; many of the writings of the Fathers, particularly those of S. Augustine ; and a beautiful Latin Bible, given the 28th of November, 1352, by Thomas De Insula, or De Lisle, Bishop of Ely. The room contains several antique Portraits of Masters and Fellows, and others connected with this house, from 1418 to 1578. Amongst them are King Edward I.; Dr. J. Holbroke, Master in 1436 ; Dr. H. Hornby, Master in 1516, and one of the Executors of Lady Margaret, Countess of Richmond; and Henry Wilshawe, B.D. 1578. The Second Court, west of the cloister, is about one hundred and forty-five feet long and eighty-five broad, it was en- tirely faced withKetton stone in the modern style about the year 1760, a pro- c e eding much to be lamented by all lovers of antiquity as it has destroyed all the SECOND COURT. s. PETER'S COLLEGE. 35 original internal features of the quadrangle, but it is unaltered on the external side, which may be seen from the adjoining church-yard of 8. Mary the Less; the original covered gallery still remains at the north-east corner, by which members of the College had access to the above Church, where all their devotional ex- ercises were performed previous to the erection of the present chapel; on the south side of this court is the Hall, a plain room, forty-eight feet long and twenty- four broad. On the screen are portraits of Charles Beaumont, Fellow, 1726; Eobert Wade, 1616; and Dr. Beaumont, Master, 1663. On the north side of the wall, are those of the Founder, of Archbishop "Whitgift, and of Bishop Cosin; on the east, those of the late Master, Dr. Barnes : Dr. Law, Bishop of Carlisle ; and Lord Chief Justice Ellenborough, on the south, those of Dr. Perne, 1589; John Blithe, Fellow, 1617; and Bernard Hale, 1660. The Third or Gisborne Court, has lately been added from part of the munificent donation of the Eev. Francis Gisborne, formerly Fellow of this Society. It measures ninety-five feet in length and eighty-seven in breadth, and contains eighteen new sets of apartments for Fellows and Students, with the stables and other offices. The first stone of the new building was laid by Mr. Brookes, the architect, on the 30th of August, 1825; the style is the Gothic of that period. Beyond the passage leading to the Hall is a pleasant grove of lime trees, in which are preserved a few fallow deer; at the end of this there is an extensive garden very tastefully laid out, which the College most liberally throws open to the public ; from the grove a good view is obtained of the back part of the Fitzwilliam Museum, D2 36 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. the extreme baldness of which seems to confirm the remark that in buildings of this style all the archi- tectural beauty is lavished upon the entrance front ; from here too may be seen the old gateway tower on the south side of the second court, which was originally the chief entrance to the College. The Master's Lodge opposite the College, on the east side of the street, is a large building of brick and stone, to which is annexed a very pleasant garden ; it was built and given to the College by Dr. Chas. Beaumont, Fellow, who died in 1726 ; it contains several paintings : amongst them is one of S. Jerome in the desert, after Rembrandt, and one of the Duke of Savoy. The more noticeable eminent men who have been members of this foundation are The famous Cardinal Beaufort, Lord Chancellor, and Bishop of Winchester, died 1447. Bryan "Walton, the learned Editor of the London Polyglot Bible, Bishop of Chester, 1661. Colonel Hutchinson, Governor of Nottingham Castle on the side of the Parliament, whose Memoirs by his widow are well known, 1664. Thomas Gray, the celebrated Poet, 177). Lord Chief Justice Ellenborough, 1818. William Smyth, Professor of Modern History, 1849.* This Society consists of a Master, fourteen foundation and ten bye fellows; there are also fifty-eight scholar- It is not thought expedient to swell the size of onr Hand-book by giving more than a very small selection of the principal eminent men belonging to each College, especially as a copious and exhaustive list may be found in the "Memorials of Cambridge," by C. H. Cooper, F.S.A., to 'which we cordially refer our readers. It is scarcely necessary for the Editor to acknowledge his obligations to this author, for all Cambridge men know that it is quite impos- sible to treat upon any subject relating to the University and Town, without being largely indebted to the works of this learned and assiduous antiquary. CHURCH OF S. MARY THE LESS. 37 ships of very unequal value; the number of under- graduates is somewhat under fifty, and the total number of members on the boards about two hundred and fifty ; the gross income amounts to upwards of 7,300. On leaving this College and continuing a few yards to the left we come to the A BEAUTIFUL, though at present rather mutilated, CHURCH OF S. MART THE LESS. example of the decorated period of Gothic architecture ; 38 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. the elegant flowing tracery of the east window is scarcely surpassed in any parish church in the king- dom, and all the side windows have been equally en- riched, but those on the north side are now either blocked up or denuded of their tracery; a large sum has however been recently expended upon a new roof, and it is intended, when funds permit, entirely to re- store this beautiful edifice. As we have before stated the original Church was dedicated to S. Peter, and so gave the name to the adjoining College, but when re- built, it was consecrated, A.D. 1349, in honour of the Blessed Virgin. The architect is supposed to have been the celebrated Alan de Walsingham, who built the Lady Chapel and the wonderful central Octagon at Ely Cathedral. The entrance arches to two curious Mortuary Chapels, one on each side, which were thrown out between the buttresses during the perpendicular period, have recently been laid bare; they much re- semble those at King's College Chapel. This Church served as the Chapel to S. Peter's College for three hundred and fifty years, it contains a good perpen- dicular font, but no important monuments, and is sadly disfigured by its unsightly fittings. On the opposite side of the street to the left stands OF which the most conspicuous feature is the stately Chapel on the south side erected by Sir Christopher Wren ; this is the third college in point of antiquity in the * The Porter's Lodge is on the right of the gateway. PEMBROKE COLLEGE. 39 University, having been founded in 1347, by Mary de S. Paul, second wife of Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pem- broke, who died sud- denly in France, in the year 1324; some accounts say that he was murdered; Fuller says . FRONT OP PEMBROKE COLLEGE. he was slam at a tournament on the day of his marriage, and that the foundress was maid, wife, and widow on the same day; this calamity induced her to renounce the world, and devote her property to religious uses. In pursuance of this design, having already founded Denny Abbey between Cambridge and Ely, she obtained a charter of incorporation from Edward III. to found a house of scholars in the town of Cambridge, to which she gave the appellation of the College or Hall of Valence-Mary, in memory of her husband and herself. However, it commonly passed by the name of her title, even before her decease, which took place in 1376. The original establishment has been greatly increased by succeeding benefactors ; particularly by Henry VI. In his charter it is termed, "the most noble, renowned, and precious College, which, among all others in the University, was ever wonderfully resplendent." This College, the front of which was faced with stone about 1 720, consists chiefly of two courts ; the first or old court, the smallest in the University, is ninety-three 40 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. feet long, and fifty-four broad, and has the Library on the north, and the Hall, which separates the two courts, on the east. The second court, which is very picturesque and nearly covered with ivy, is about one hundred and twenty-two feet long, and ninety-two broad. The vene- rable appearance of this College caused Queen Elizabeth, when she visited Cambridge, to sa- lute it with these words: "Ohf do- mus, antiqua et re- ligiosa /' ' This sen- timent may, how- ever, have been partly suggested by the remem- brance of Rogers, Bradford, and Rid- ley, who suffered martyrdom in the preceding reign, and were all of this College, the last-mentioned having been Master. The Chapel, which, with the Lodge and Cloister, forms a third small court, was built at a cost of nearly 4000 by Matthew Wren, Bishop of Ely,* from a design by his nephew, Sir Chri&topher Wren, and is In gratitude to God for his deliverance from a captivity of eighteen years in the Tower of London, endured for his loyalty to ^his Sovereign and his attachment to the Church. PAST OF FIEST COUKT. PEMBROKE COLLEGE. 41 a finely-proportioned building in the Corinthian style, the interior is about fifty-four feet long, twenty-four broad, and upwards of thirty high, and the furniture and decorations harmonize with the general character of the edifice. It was dedicated in 1665; and Bishop Wren gave the manor of Hardwick, in this county, to keep it in repair. Over the altar is a painting of "the Burial of Christ," by Barroccio, which formerly belonged to Sir Joshua Eeynolds. PART OP SECOKD COURT, SHEWING THE HALL, The Hall is much altered and mutilated; panelled with Elizabethan wainscoting, and is about foriy-two feet long, and twenty-seven broad. Here are portraits of 42 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Bishop Ridley and John Bradford, martyrs, copied from prints in Holland's Heroologia; Sir Robert Hitcham; Nicholas Felton, Master, and Bishop of Ely; Mary de S. Paul, the Foundress, a good copy by Marchi ; and King Henry VI.; there is also a bust by Chantrey of William Pitt, who was educated at this College: the Combination-room is at the end of the Hall, and contains the following portraits : Edmund Spenser, half-length, said to be copied by Wilson, from an original; Edmund Grindal, Master, and afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury, on wood; Benjamin Lany, who was ejected from the Mastership during the Com- monwealth, but replaced at the Restoration, and sub- sequently appointed to the see of Ely; Dr. Roger Long, Master, by J?. Wilson ; a full-length, by Harlow, of William Pitt, executed after his decease; a small half-length of Gray, the poet, who removed hither when the mischievous pranks of the students, who were constantly taking advantage of his nervous tempera- ment and playing practical jokes upon him, had caused him to desert S. Peter's ; and another of Mason, the poet, formerly Fellow, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. The Library, which occupies almost the whole of the north side of the first court, is a very spacious room, containing upwards of ten thousand well-classed and choice books and a few MSS. It was formerly the College Chapel, and is remarkable for the beauty of its ceiling. At the north-east corner of the inner court is a detached brick building, erected for the purpose of containing an astronomical machine, or hollow sphere, invented by Dr. Roger Long, Lowndean Professor of Astronomy, and constructed by himself and Mr. PEMBROKE COLLEGE. 43 Jonathan Munns, an ingenious tin-plate worker of Cambridge. The sphere is eighteen feet in diameter, and is entered by steps over the south pole. On the interior are painted the figures of the Constellations, &c., and thirty persons may conveniently sit around it. Although its whole weight is about one thousand pounds, it may be readily turned round by a small winch, with as little labour as it takes to wind up a common kitchen-jack ; and, when in motion, it presents to the spectator the actual appearance, the relative situation, and the successive revolutions of the heavenly bodies. The College garden is large, pleasant, and well stocked with fruit-trees; and there is a good bowling- green in it. At the Great Rebellion the Colleges sent most of their plate to King Charles I., so that we have not many very ancient examples. Pembroke, however, has preserved two very interesting cups, one of silver-gilt, weighing forty ounces, the gift of Bishop Langton, date 1 5th century, the other also of silver-gilt, weighing twenty ounces, long supposed to be the gift of the Foundress : around it are the following singular in- scriptions : "sayn Denes y*. es me dere "for hes lof drenk and mak gud cher. " V. M. " God help at ned." but its style proves it to be much later than the time of the Foundress, and it is now known to have been presented by Dr. Sokborn about the end of the 15th century, the initials V. M. signifying the name of the College, having then been engraved upon it. 44r HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. This has been termed "Collegium Episcopale" from the great number of Bishops who have been members of the College. The following are a few of its more eminent men : William Sawtree, minister of S. Margaret's, Lynn, Martyr.* Nicholas Ridley, Master, Bishop of London, 1550, suffered martyrdom with Latimer, at Oxford, 1555. Edmund Spenser, the Poet, 1599. Edmund Grindal, Master, Archbishop of Canterbury, 1583. John Whitgift, Master, Archbishop of Canterbury, 1604. Gabriel Harvey, the Poet, 1631. Lancelot Andrewes, Bishop of "Winchester, 1618. Richard Crashaw, the Poet, 1652. Right Honourable "William Pitt, died January 23, 1806. This Society consists of a Master, fourteen foundation and two bye Fellows, besides several Scholars ; it is one of the smallest as regards numbers in the University, there being only about one hundred and thirty mem- bers on the boards, and thirty students; its gross revenues amount to 12,000 per annum. It is intended very shortly to rebuild the greater part of this venerable College, many portions having become unsightly and dilapidated; but it is to be hoped that this work of renovation may be carried on in a truly conservative spirit, and that those who have the direc- tion of it will pause, before needlessly sweeping away any part of an ancient foundation, so associated as this is with many of the great and shining lights of the English Church! * "I shall only say this for the honour of that William Sawtree, and of Pembrook Hall, in Cambridge, above any Colledge either in Oxford or Cam- bridge, that Martyrum primus, which was this William Sawtree ; Martyrum doctissimus, which was Bishop Ridley ; and Martyrum piissimus, which was John Bradford, were all of Pembrook Hall." Bagshaw's Argument in Parlia~ went, 1641. PITT PRESS. 45 The large modern Gothic building, with a central tower, on the opposite side of the street, is generally supposed by Freshmen to be a church, and is therefore facetiously called "the Freshmen's Church;" it is however, the pt |ms, 0r Imtoits pitting Office, WHICH was chiefly erected by means of the funds raised by the personal friends of the Eight Hon. William Pitt, for the purpose of erecting a memorial worthy PITT PKESS. of that distinguished man. Statues of him were erected in Westminster Abbey, and Hanover Square, and as it was then found that a large surplus remained, the 46 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Committee munificently offered to employ it in building a printing office in the University which had the honour of educating that eminent statesman, to be called after him the " PITT PRESS," and so to connect his name with Cambridge, as Lord Clarendon's is associated with Ox- ford. This liberal offer being accepted, and a site pro- vided by the University, in 1831 the first stone was laid by the Marquis Camden, and 1833 witnessed the completion of the edifice. The architect was Mr. Blore, who doubtless would have erected a very different building now; still it is a creditable specimen of the early revived Gothic, the large room with its oriel window over the gateway in the tower, being especially worthy of notice. The first book known to have been printed at Cambridge, was "Erasmus de Conscribendis Epistolis," A.D. 1521, by Sibert. In the same year he printed, among other books, Dr. Thomas Linacre's translation of Galen de Temperamentis, supposed to be the first book printed in England containing Greek characters. The first royal license which the University received for printing books, was granted by Henry VIH. in the twenty-sixth year of his reign, A.D. 1534. Like that of the sister University, this Press prints every description of Bibles and Common Prayer-books ; together with a variety of theological, classical, and scientific works. The management of the Press is committed, by the Senate, to the Vice-Chancellor and a Syndicate, ap- pointed for that purpose. An annuity of 500 per RTmrnn, received from Government, in lieu of the privilege of printing Almanacks, is disposed of, by the Syndicate in assisting meritorious authors in the publica- tion of their works. QUEENS' COLLEGE. 47 The days of admission to this establishment are Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, from twelve to one o'clock. Strangers must be accompanied by a Master of Arts. Nearly opposite the Pitt Press stands, a little to the left, AN example of the late perpendicular style. The Nave has, on each side, four lofty arches with octagonal pillars, and there is a rather curious chapel annexed to the south porch. The west window was restored a few years ago, under the direction of Professor Willis, who in his own unrivalled manner, deduced the correct form of its tracery, from the faintest indications. Under an arched recess in this Church is a half-length effigy, commemorating Dr. Thomas Playfere, the learned Lady Margaret Professor of Divinity, who died in 1609. The altar-piece is a good painting of the Crucifixion, brought from Antwerp. Those who are interested in the study of bells will find four in this belfry which are very interesting ; each has a latin invocation to a saint upon it, in old English characters. We now recross the road, and proceeding down Silver Street, we soon arrive at WHICH in its architecture, history, and plan, is one of the most picturesque and interesting of our Colleges. It was founded in the year 1448, and endowed with * The Porter's Lodge is under the Tower gateway, on the left. 48 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. revenues to the amount of 200 per annum, for the support of a President and four Fellows, by Margaret of Anjou, consort of Henry VI., who, amidst a career, QUKEXS' COLLEGE FROM THE KING'S MILL (1839.) perhaps one of the most troublous and chequered on record, thus found time and means to emulate the munificence of her royal husband, and, while he was erecting his King's College of S. Mary and S. Nicholas, became the foundress of her Queen's College of S. Margaret and S. Bernard. The civil wars and the misfortunes of the House of Lancaster for a time interrupted the work, but Andrew Doket, the first President, who has also every claim to be regarded as one of the founders, had the adroitness to QUEENS' COIXEGE. 49 secure for this new foundation the patronage of another Queen, Elizabeth Widville, consort of Edward IV., whose life was almost as romantic as that of the first foundress. She set aside a portion of her income for the endowment of the College, and in 1475 gave it a code of statutes, and has since been annually celebrated as a co-foundress. The endoAvments were much increased by Kichard III. and Anne his Queen, and subsequently by various benefactors. This College stands in what was once the principal street in Cambridge, and though now it loses much of its grandeur from its cramped and retired position, it still presents a very striking appear- ance with its massive solemnity, and bold irregularity of outline. the gateway, we here first- meet with one of those noble struc- tures with towers at the angles, which form such a marked feature in our Cambridge collegiate architecture, and of which there is not a single example in the sister University ; beneath this one the ENTRANCE GATEWAY. Visitor should pause to examine the beautiful stone vaulting, and to note, in the central bosses, carved figures of the two patron saints of the foundress, in one S. Bernard kneeling, in the other S. Margaret trampling on the dragon. We enter on the east side of the first or principal court 50 H-AJSD-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. which, with the entrance gateway, is of brick, and measures ninety-six feet by eighty-four; immediately opposite are the hall and butteries, surmounted by a recent but picturesque bell-cot ; on the north are the library and chapel, with a lofty modern tower of open woodwork, beneath which is a large sun-dial, said to have been made by Sir Isaac Newton; over the doorway next to the Hall are the arms of Margaret of Anjou, and the door itself is a good example of the carved woodwork of the loth century; this leads us THE CJ.OISTKHS, SHOWING KUASMUs's TOWKK AT into the Cloister Court, which extends to the banks of the river, and has a range of cloisters on three sides, each about eighty feet in length; the President's Lodge is on the north; the Hall, with its moulded brick chimnies, on the east ; the river or west front presents a picturesque oriel. Erasmus's Court* is on the south When the erudite and ingenious Erasmus visited England, at the invitation of his friend, Bishop Fisher, then Chancellor of the University, he chose this College as his place of residence, having his study, says Fuller, at the top of the south-west tower of the court now called hy his name. (See cut). QUEENS' COLLEGE. 51 side of the Cloister Court. The western side of this was erected about 1780, and was intended to form the south wing of an entirely new river front, a design which every one must feel thankful has never been com- pleted. The Wal- nut-tree Court lies to the north of the principal court, and is entered by the passage between the chapel and library; the buildings, which are on the east side, were erected PART OP THE CLOISTER COURT. in 1617, and are very pleasantly situated. The Chapel is a fair building of the perpendicular style, fifty-four feet long and twenty-one broad ; it was erected in the reign of Henry VI. The first stone is said to have been laid by Sir John Wenlock on April 15, 1448 ; it went through the usual course of modernization in 1773, when the original roof was covered with a plaister ceiling, and many other tasteless alterations made. Very recently it has been most nobly and sumptuously E2 52 JIAND-BOOK FOE VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. restored, with great taste and originality from designs by Mr. Bodley, architect, and is now one of the most beautiful chapels in the University, with its stained glass, inlaid marbles, encaustic tiles, and rich wood carv- ings : the small ante-chapel contains some late brasses, and several memorials to members of the College. The Hall which had also many of its original features destroyed during the last century, has recently been judiciously restored, the fine old roof uncovered, and the windows filled with appropriate tracery. At the upper end are the following portraits : Sir Thomas Smith, half-length, dressed in a fur cloak, and leaning on a globe ; Queen Elizabeth Widville, a very fine painting ; and Erasmus, seated at a table, writing, and dressed in a fur cloak. These are good copies of older pictures, and were presented to the College by the three sons of Harry, fourth Earl of Stamford. On the west side is a full-length portrait of Joshua King, LL.D., President, by Sir William Beechey. The fine oriel window at the north-east end has re- cently been filled with stained glass, beautifully executed by Hardman, representing the armorial bearings of the founders, benefactors, presidents, bishops, and other distinguished members of the College ; the windows on the west side are also similarly enriched. The Combination-room adjoins the Hall, and contains a fine portrait of Dr. Isaac Milner, formerly President, and Dean of Carlisle, by Harlowe; also busts of Sir Isaac Newton, and William Pitt. The Library has, on the north side, five windows of mediaeval stained glass, it contains a collection of very valuable books, to the number of about twenty- five thousand. Amongst them are all the Greek QUEENS' COLLEGE. 53 and Latin books of that famous benefactor to the University, Sir Thomas Smith: a fine copy of the Antwerp Polyglot Bible in eight folios, given by Bishop Chaderton; above one hundred volumes given by Henry Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon; nearly sixty folios, given by Dr. Tindal, Dean of Ely; about six hundred volumes bequeathed by the learned John Smith, about A. D. 1650; thirteen Persian and Turkish MSS. given by the Eev. Mr. Thompson; and two thousand volumes left by the Eev. David Hughes, Vice- President of the College; and it has been within the last few years augmented by a collection of about three thousand valuable works left by the late Dean Milner. An admirable catalogue of this library was published, at the expense of the Society, in 1827, by the Eev. Thomas Hartwell Home, in 2 vols. royal 8vo. The President's Lodge on the north side of the Cloister court is commodious and spacious ; it contains many valuable pictures, of which the following may be esteemed the most /Worthy of remark : the two royal Foundresses ; John Fisher, Bishop of Eochester ; Henry, Earl of Huntingdon, 1601 ; John Davenant, Bishop of Salisbury; Anthony Sparrow, Bishop of Norwich; Daniel Wray, by Dance; Admiral Caleb Barnes, 1675 ; General Monk, Duke of Albemarle ; Simon Patrick, Bishop of Ely ; Sir George Saville, Bart. ; Eichard Hopkins, Esq., a fine portrait, by Reynolds; Erasmus, by Holbein ; Henry Plumptre, President in 1 743 ; and his son and successor in the Presidentship, Dr. Eobert Plumptre ; and a valuable and curious altar-piece from the chapel, on three panels: the subjects are Judas betraying Christ, the Eesurrection, and Christ appear- 54 HAOT-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. iug to the Apostles after the Resurrection : these are in the highest preservation, and are esteemed a great curiosity. They are conjectured to have been presented to the College by Queen Margaret of Anjou. This College, like many others we shall come to in the course of our route, has gardens and grounds on both sides of the river, they are connected by a wooden bridge, of one arch, resting on stone abutments, an ingenious piece of carpentry, erected in 1746 ; it is frequently called the mathematical bridge, and harmonizes well with the surrounding scenery; to the right of this is the grove, a very inviting place for quiet meditation ; the terraced walk on the banks of the river is a delightful spot, shaded by lofty overhanging elms, at the end of which a striking view is obtained beneath the arch of King's bridge. Eminent Members : John Fisher, President, Bishop of Rochester, beheaded 1535. Erasmus, died 1536. Sir Thomas Smith, the eminent Greek Scholar, Secretary of State to Edward VI. and Queen Elizabeth, 1577. John Weever, the Antiquary, 1632. Thomas Fuller, D.D., Author of the "Church History," &c., 1661. Anthony Sparrow, President, Bishop of Norwich, 1685. Simon Patrick, President, Bishop of Ely, 1707. Dr. Isaac Milner, President, Dean of Carlisle, 1820. Samuel Lee, D.D., late Professor of Hebrew; the eminent Linguist, 1852. This Society consists of a President, twenty Fellows, and fifteen Scholars. The number of Undergraduates is usually about fifty, and of members on the boards somewhat under two hundred and seventy ; the revenue is about 5,400. S. CATHAIUXE S COLLEGE. 55 Leaving this College by the great gateway, on the opposite side of the street, a little to the left, is the rather sombre fagade, forming the west front of . Sterne' WHICH we enter by a neat portico of the Tuscan order. This College was founded in the year 1475, by Robert Woodlark, D.D., Provost of King's College, and Chancellor of the University; who obtained a charter from Edward IV., and appointed a Master and three Fellows, dedicating it to S. Catharine. The number of Fellows has been since increased to fourteen, besides which there are upwards of thirty Scholarships and Exhibitions. This has been chiefly effected through the ample donation of Mrs. Mary Rauisden, of Norton in Yorkshire, a very considerable benefactress to the College. We now find ourselves in the principal court, the building of which was commenced about 1680, it is about one hundred and eighty feet long an d one hundred * CATHARINE'S COI.LEGK. and twenty broad, built with brick and stone on three * The Porter's Lodge is at the south end of the giove. 56 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. sides; the fourth being open towards Trumpington Street, with handsome iron palisades, and a piece of ENTRANCE GATKWAY, &C., EAST FROXT. ground planted with elms. The north side of this quadrangle is occupied by the Chapel, Hall, &c., behind which is a small back court containing only eight sets of rooms ; and on the south is the Master's Lodge. The Chapel is about seventy-five feet long, thirty broad, and thirty-six high ; and within is remarkable for simplicity of ornament. It was consecrated, A.D. 1 704, by the exemplary Simon Patrick, Bishop of Ely. In the ante-chapel is a handsome marble monument, erected by Sir William Dawes, Bart., D.D., Master of S. CATHARINE S COLLEGE. 57 THE CHAPKL. the College, and afterwards Archbishop of York, to the memory of his lady. Here is also a tomb of Dr. John Addenbrooke, a Fellow of the College, and founder of the Hospital in this town, which bears his name. The Hall, which joins the Chapel, is a well-propor- tioned room, forty-two feet long, twenty-four broad, and as many high ; it is elegantly stuccoed, and has portraits of Dr. Woodlark, the founder, Bishops Hoadly and Sherlock, Dr. Lightfoot and others. In the Combination-room are portraits of Thomas Sherlock, 58 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. D.D., Master of the College, Bishop of London, by Vanloe ; and of John Groslyn, M.D., Master of Caius College, and a benefactor to this Society ; King Charles II. when a boy, and a small painting of S. Catharine, brought from Venice, and presented to the College by Sir Charles Bunbury. The Library, over the Hall and Combination-room, is a handsome well arranged apartment, fitted up at the expense of Bishop Sherlock, who bequeathed his own valuable collection of books to the College with a stipend for a Librarian. It contains about eight thousand volumes. The Master's Lodge forms a handsome and commo- dious residence, it contains several good paintings, among which are four portraits, by Sir Godfrey Kncller. Among the most eminent Members of this College are : John Bradford, martyred 1555. Edwin Sandys, Master, Archbishop of York, 1588. John Lightfoot, D.D., Master, the eminent Rabbinical scholar, 1675. John Ray, the great naturalist, 1705. John Strype, the learned Ecclesiastical Historian, 1737. Benjamin Hoadly, Bishop of Winchester, who gave rise to the celebrated Bangorian controversy, 1761. Thomas Sherlock, Master, Bishop of London, 1761. The number of Undergraduates at this College is about thirty, and of members on the boards, two hundred. Passing out, through the gateway in the palisades, into Trumpington Street, immediately opposite is the extensive modern front of CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE. 59 Corps CjnM THIS College, which differs in its origin from that of any other in either of the Universities, was founded by the union and benevolence of two Societies or Guilds in Cambridge, termed " Gilda Corporis Christi," and " Gilda Beatse Mariee Virginis." Guilds were of Saxon institution, and con- a sisted of a company of persons associated sometimes for parti- cular, and at others for mixed purposes,/ frequently having for their scope various objects, religious, charitable, and commercial. These two guilds, the most eminent in Cambridge, seem to have been chiefly of a religious character ; shortly be- fore the foundation of this College they were united, and then, through the instrumentality of Henry Plantagenet, Duke of Lancaster, their Alderman, they obtained, in 1352, a licence from Edward III. to institute and found a College, under the name of the house of scholars of Corpus Christi and Blessed Mary of Cambridge, and they at first endowed it for a Master and two Fellows. By the munificence of Henry de Tangmer, Thomas de Cambridge, and others, the number of Fellows was soon after increased. The endowments have since FRONT OP CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE. * The Porter's Lodge is under the gateway on the left. 60 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. been much augmented by succeeding benefactors; and particularly by Archbishop Parker, who procured also a new body of Statutes, gave many very considerable bene- factions, and made a large addition to the Library, by a collection of printed books and rare and valuable MSS. which will be mentioned hereafter. For more than two hundred years after its foundation this College had no Chapel of its own, the devotional exercises of the Society being chiefly performed in the adjoining Church of S. Benedict, to which there was an approach by a covered gallery still in existence: from its close connection with this Church it was generally known for upwards of four centuries as Benet College, and has only resumed its original and correct name of Corpus Christi within the last forty years ; it formerly consisted principally of the old Court and Chapel; the latter commenced in 1579, but not finished till 1594, it was chiefly erected at the expense of Sir Nicholas Bacon, Lord Keeper in the reign of Elizabeth, and father of the illustrious statesman and philosopher of that name. The street front and new quadrangle were designed by William Wilkins, Esq., M.A., of Caius College, funds having accumulated, for the purpose of their erection, from the munificent bequests of Archbishop Herring, and Bishops Mawson and Greene, formerly Masters of the College. The first stone of the new buildings was laid by the Eight Hon. the Earl of Hardwicke, K.GK, High Steward of the University, on the 2nd of July, 1823. The west front faces Trumpington Street, and has a very imposing appearance, being two hundred and twenty-two feet in length, and presenting a handsome elevation of three stories. In the centre is a lofty CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE. 61 entrance gateway, flanked by towers, and the northern and southern extremities are finished with elaborate projecting windows, and terminated by towers to cor- respond with those of the gateway. The whole exterior is built with Ketton stone, and certainly forms one of the most striking modern architectural features of the Uni- versity, very creditable for the period when it was built, but hardly to be deemed satisfactory in these days of the Gothic revival. ENTRANCE GATEWAY, WITH VIEW OF S. CATHARINt's OPPOSITE. Passing under the gateway, the spacious quadrangle, 62 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. one hundred and fifty-eight feet long by one hundred and twenty-nine feet broad, attracts our attention ; this contains the Chapel and Library, the Hall and Master's Lodge, and forty- seven sets of apartments for the Fellows and Students ; it forms a very good example of the Collegiate architecture of the time of George IV., its great fault being the adoption, on the east side, of the Italian principles of symmetry and uniformity, by making two buildings intended for such different pur- poses as the Chapel and Master's Lodge correspond with each other under one fagade. The CJiapel, which occupies the centre of the east side of this Court, was erected in 1827 in the Gothic style of the period, and not at all in accordance with our present knowledge of ecclesiastical architecture ; the great east window is filled with stained glass, which was purchased by the College at a great expense of the late Mr. Hampp, a Dutch merchant residing at Norwich, who collected it in the course of his travels on the continent. In this window are represented the Holy Family and the Nativity. Over the altar is a painting of the Holy Family, by Elizabeth Swrani, the gift of Lord Godolphin. In the next window, on the south side, are represented the death and assumption of the Blessed Virgin, together with heads of 8. Joseph and two other Saints ; this was given by Mr. Wilkins, the architect. The window opposite represents the scourging of Christ; below are SS. Peter, Paul, and Catharine. The west window represents the Blessed Virgin and Child, and the four Evangelists, and was contributed by various members of the College, in 1831. The dimensions of the chapel are seventy-five feet long (including the ante-chapel), twenty-five feet wide, and COIIPUS CHKISTI COLLEGE. 63 thirty-three feet high. It contains some inscriptions commemorative of former members of the College re- moved from the old chapel ; choral service is performed here on Sundays and other feast days. The right wing forms a part of the Master's Lodge, which is a spacious and handsome residence ; here are many fine pictures, among which are the following : Cardinal Wolsey ; Thomas, Lord Cromwell ; Sir Thomas More ; Robert, Earl of Leicester ; Dr. Richard Love, by D. Mytens ; Matthias Mawson, Bishop of Ely, by Heins ; John Fox, the Martyrologist ; Archbishop Parker ; Bishop Bradford, by Enoch Zeeman; Dr. Colman, by Romney ; John Spencer, and John Barnardiston, by Vandermyn ; and the portraits of many other distin- guished persons. It has the principal front towards the south, in a walled garden of some extent. The Library occupies the south side of the Court, and is an elegant room, eighty-seven feet long, twenty- two wide, and tweiity-five high. It has a good coved roof and is fitted up with bookcases of carved oak, and a handsome Gothic screen at the west end to separate the collection of manuscripts from the rest of the Library. The number of printed books is about four thousand five hundred. The Manuscripts contained in this Library are con- sidered amongst the most valuable in the kingdom. They are very ancient, some of them being as old as the 8th century, but are chiefly remarkable as com- prising a large and very rare collection of papers relating to ecclesiastical affairs, which had been collected on the dissolution of monasteries by Henry VIII., and amongst them are found interesting documents rela- tive to the Reformation, and a copy of the Thirty- 64 HA2TD-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. nine Articles, with, the manuscript corrections of the compilers. This matchless collection of MSS. was left to the College by Archbishop Parker, formerly Master, and is held under the following particular restrictions: "Every year, on the 6th of August, it is to be visited by the Masters or locum-tenentes of Trinity Hall and Caius College, with two scholars on the Archbishop's foundation; and if, on examination of the Library, six MSS. in folio, eight in quarto, and twelve of a less size are missing, or cannot be found within six months, the whole collection devolves to Caius. In that case, the Masters or locum-tenentes of Trinity Hall and Corpus Christi College, with two scholars on the same foundation, are the Visitors; and if Caius College be guilty of the lite neglect, the books are to be delivered up to Trinity Hall; then the Masters or locum-tenentes of Caius and Corpus Christi, with two such scholars, become the inspectors ; and in case of default on the part of Trinity Hall, the whole collection reverts to its former order." The books, according to the Archbishop's will, are so carefully kept, that even a Fellow of the College is not permitted to enter the Library, unless accompanied by another Fellow or Scholar, who must attend him during his stay, yet notwithstanding these stringent rules, the Master and Fellows most courteously arrange so that strangers have no difficulty in consulting these valuable MSS. Here is a portrait of Archbishop Parker, supposed to be an original. The Hall and Combination-room, opposite the Library, compose the north side of the quadrangle. The Hall measures about sixty-two feet in length, twenty-seven CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE. 65 in width, and thirty-five in height, and is entered by a flight of stone steps from the north-east angle of the court. The roof, which is ornamented with pendants and tracery, is divided into five compartments by seven principal ribs springing from corbels. The walls are panelled with carved oak to the height of eleven feet from the floor. At the west end of the south side is a fine oriel, this and most of the other windows are filled with stained glass, some of it old and the rest skilfully adapted to it, representing the armorial bearings of various corporations, Thetford, Norwich, Canterbury, &c., and those of former Benefactors, distinguished Members, Masters and Fellows. This is one of the best refectories in the University, and one of the most successful works of the architect. The Combination-room contains a fine copy of Eaphael's School of Athens, by Nicholas Poussin, presented to the College by Mr. Wilkins ; also portraits of Erasmus ; Archbishop Tenison;Dr. Edward Tenison, Bishop of Ossory, by Kneller ; Dean Colet, and others. PART OP THE NEW COURT. Passing through a passage at the north-east corner of this quadrangle we come into the Old Court which retains more of its original features than any other 66 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. court in the University, and is therefore a very interest- ing example of mediaeval Collegiate architecture and arrangement : the original hall, now used as the kitchen, stood on the south side and may be recognized by its large projecting window ; to the east of this was the Master's Lodge, and to the west the old kitchen : the PART OF THK OLl) COVUT. dimensions of this quadrangle are about one hundred and fifteen feet by ninety ; it presents a very picturesque appearance with its massive buttresses and ivy covered walls, though the general effect is somewhat marred by the modern white brick exterior of the hall on the south side. Some of the plate of this College is very old and curious : an antique drinking-horn, presented to the guild of Corpus Christi in 1347 by John Goldcorne, SHIP EG Hi. 31 5R K' S '? SSIBHTKITS <&lS.T!nS,O3t = s. BENEDICT'S CHURCH. 67 it is figured and described in the third volume of the Archaeologia, by the late Rev. Michael Tyson, formerly Fellow of this College : the cup of the Three Kings, a small bowl of dark wood mounted with silver : thirteen silver gilt spoons terminated by figures of Christ and His Apostles : an elegant salt cellar nearly a foot high with quaint decorations : a magnificent ewer and bason, and a cup with a cover weighing 53 oz. ; most of these were the gift of Archbishop Parker. Eminent Men : George Wishart, the Martyr, 1546. Matthew Parker, Master, Archbishop of Canterbury, 1575. Sir Nicholas Bacon, Lord Keeper in the reign of Queen Eliza- beth, 1579. Christopher Marlowe, the Dramatist, 1593. John Fletcher, the Dramatic Poet and colleague of Beaumont, 1625. Thomas Tenison, Archbishop of Canterbury, 1715. Thomas Herring, Archbishop of Canterbury, 1757. William Stukeley, eminent as a Physician, Divine, and Antiquary, 1765. Richard Gough, the eminent Antiquary, 1809. This Society consists of a -Master, twelve Fellows, and sixty Scholars. The number of Undergraduates is about seventy, and of members on the boards three hundred. An archway on the north side of the Old Court conducts us to the west entrance of S. Wi)Jtt'S THE tower of which is one of the most perfect and interesting examples of Saxon architecture remaining in England, and presents some of the most notable F2 68 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITOES TO CAMBRIDGE. features of the style, in the long and short masonry at the corners, the peculiar balustre windows, and the absence of buttresses ; the carving of the tower arch is also very curious and rude. The piers and arches are of the early English style, and as the Church has been sadly mutilated, there is not much else worthy of note except a small brass of Dr. Billingford, Master of Corpus College, 1438, in a kneeling attitude. The new north aisle was added in 1 854 ; externally a small portion of long and short work may be seen between the nave and chancel showing that the original Saxon church extended thus far. The gallery carried on an archway connecting this church with Corpus College is also particularly worthy of notice ; it is shewn in the cut above. KING'S COLLEGE. 69 Keeping to the left on leaving this church, we soon emerge upon King's Parade, where a most striking architectural view at once bursts upon the sight, com- prising at a glance examples of the various styles in which most of our Collegiate buildings have been erected: first we have the modern gothic front of King's College ; then the noble Chapel rears its stately pile with turret, pinnacle, and pierced parapet, one of the richest examples in existence of perpendicular gothic; beyond this is the projecting front of the University Library, surmounted by a row of elabo- rately carved urns, a fair specimen of the Italian style ; the view is bounded by the Senate-House with its imposing south elevation, a good example of the Corin- thian order of Classical architecture ; and rising behind this may be seen the Elizabethan cupola of the Gate of Virtue of Caius College. Continuing our course along King's Parade we soon arrive at the entrance gateway of THIS royal and magnificent foundation arose from the munificence of the meek and unfortunate king Henry VI., who first founded it in 1441, upon rather a moderate scale for a rector and twelve scholars, but in 1443 he very much altered and extended his original plan, endowed it for a Provost and seventy scholars, and made it by far the most important foundation at that time in the University ; and had his entire design been carried out, it would have greatly excelled any * The Porter's Lodge is on the right hand side of the entrance gateway. 70 HAND-BOOK FOB VI8ITOB8 TO CAMBRIDGE. similar institution now in existence : but his personal FRONT OP KING S misfortunes, and the troublous times in which his lot was cast, prevented his completing even the chapel, and though the subsequent Kings, Edward IV. and Richard III., each contributed towards it, it was re- served for his thrifty nephew, Henry VII., partly by a donation in his life-time, and partly by will, to provide the funds for the completion of that noble edifice. Through the influence of the royal founder, peculiar privileges are attached to Bang's ; the Provost has absolute authority within its precincts, and by special composition between this Society and the University, its Undergraduates (under certain restrictions) are exempt from the power of the Proctors and other University Officers, within the limits of the College ; and up to the first of May, 1850, they claimed and received the degree of B.A. without undergoing any of the ex- aminations required from other Undergraduates, but on that date they voluntarily surrendered that acknow- ledged privilege, and now go through the same course as other members of the University. This College originally consisted of the Chapel and a Court to the north of it, about one hundred and KING 3 COLLEGE. 71 twenty feet long and ninety broad, which was very lofty, and built of stone. It was purchased by the University about thirty years since, for the purpose of enlarging the public Library, and the greater part of it pulled down to within a few feet of the ground. The noble entrance gateway still remains tolerably per- fect, a beautiful example of the architecture of the period, which it is to be hoped will be moved to some other situation when its present site is required. This THK OLD ENTRANCE OATKWAY. 72 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Old Court, becoming much decayed, and inadequate to the needs of the College, it was determined, about the beginning of the last century, to erect a large quad- rangle to the south of the Chapel, suitable to the dignity and wants of this royal foundation. This grand undertaking was accordingly commenced in 1 724, under the direction of James Gibbs, the well-known architect of S. Martin's in the fields ; and he erected the Fellows' Building (which will be described hereafter), as the west side of the intended square, and a specimen of the manner in which the whole was to have been finished. But as it often happens that plans on such an extensive scale are not fully carried into execution, so it occurred, as every one must admit very fortunately, in this in- stance. The design of forming a grand quadrangle was then abandoned, but afterwards resumed, and the new buildings were commenced in 1824. On the 12th of July in that year, the first stone was laid by the Vice-Provost ; and the whole was completed in 1828, in the Gothic style of that period, according to the plans of William Wilkins, Esq., E.A., the Architect of Down- ing and Corpus Christi Colleges, of the King's Court at Trinity, and of the National Gallery in Trafalgar Square. This grand quadrangle measures two hundred and eighty feet in length, and about two hundred and seventy in breadth, and contains the Hall, Library, Chapel, and rooms for the Fellows and Scholars. It is separated on the east side from King's Parade, by a stone screen, two hundred and eighty feet long, pierced with open perpendicular gothic windows, with pinnacles between each. In the centre is the entrance gateway, an elaborate, but according to our present notions, tasteless structure, though at the time of its erection KING'S COLLEGE. 73 it was highly praised ; it consists of an octagonal tower and dome, eighty-two feet high, which stands in the centre of four pairs of meaningless turrets ending in short spires, and from each corner of the building rises a small pinnacle ; the whole design is incongruous and deficient in dignity, and has been not inaptly likened to a large cruet-stand. Much as it is to be regretted that the architectural effect of this front is so unworthy of the fine site it occupies, its erection effected a marvellous improvement in this part of Cambridge, by causing the removal of a row of old houses on the west side of what was then narrow, dingy Trumpington Street, and converting it into the present airy and spacious King's Parade. TUK HALL. 74 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. The Hall, on the south side, is a finely proportioned room, one hundred and two feet long, thirty-six feet broad, and forty-five feet high. Externally the effect is spoiled by the Architect's idea of uniformity, while the interior is sadly marred by the want of proper distribution of light, and by having a gallery at each end. It has a pendant ceiling of painted stucco, copied from Crosby Hall, London, and is surrounded on three sides by wainscot panelling, well carved with the linen pattern. In the centre of the north side is an elaborate oriel, and the roof which is of low pitch, is surmounted by two lanterns ; the screen at the west end is handsomely designed and executed, and is one of the best features of the room. Many of the windows are filled with stained glass, representing the armorial bearings of Noblemen, Bishops, and other distinguished members of the College. The Fellows' and Scholars' apartments are on each side of the Hall, and still carry out the Architect's cherished notions of uniformity. The building at the western end contains also the Combination-rooms, the largest of which measures about forty feet in length, and twenty in breadth, and contains, among other portraits, those of the Founder, Sir Robert Walpole, and Bishop Pearson. The smaller room has also an ancient painting on panel of King Henry VI.; portraits of Archbishop Sumner, and other members of the College; and a curious painting of Eton College in the time of Queen Anne. Adjoining is the Library, a handsome but plain structure, with buttresses and pinnacles, and a per- forated parapet. The interior is ninety-three feet long, twenty-seven feet broad, and eighteen feet high, it KINO'S COLLEGE. 75 has a flat panelled ceiling and is conveniently fitted up with projecting bookcases of carved oak, well furnished with a scarce and very valuable collection of books, in number about twelve thousand; among which are a very large and curious MS. latin Psalter written upon parchment, taken from the Spaniards at the siege of Cadiz, in 1691, it measures nearly three feet by two feet ; a MS. Concordance to the Bible, of the loth century, finely illuminated, and some good oriental MSS. It contains also the valuable collection of the late Jacob Bryant, Esq., consisting of between two and three thousand volumes, amongst which are many very rare and early printed classics, from A.D. 1470 to A.D. 1500. The Fellows' Building at the west side, is the one to which we have before alluded, as erected by Mr. GHbbs. Its dimensions are two hundred and thirty- six feet in length, forty-six in breadth, and fifty-six in height. It is built of Portland stone, with a lofty Tuscan portico in the centre leading to the lawn, and comprises in three lofty stories, twenty commodious suites of rooms for the Fellows. Although this is a very fine building of its style, and has a dignified and palatial appearance, its~~total incongruity with the Chapel renders it a matter of thankfulness that the whole quadrangle was never completed according to the same design. To the west of this is the Provostfs Lodge, which although connected with the other range of buildings may be considered as unique in its design, and exhibits a very good specimen of the Tudor domestic style, and is certainly the most successful portion of the new build- ings. The front, which is richly ornamented, is ninety- eight feet in length, and when viewed from the west end 76 HAND-BOOK FOE VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. THE PROVOST'S LODGE. of the Chapel, with the extensive lawn in front, the river beyond spanned by the willow-shaded bridge, and the bold outline of the venerable elms which form the back - ground of the land- scape, pre- sents a most striking and picturesque appearance. The interior of the Lodge is tastefully fitted up, and contains some fine and spacious apartments: the state rooms measure thirty-five feet long and twenty broad ; here is a curious portrait, on board, of Jane Shore ; also a half-length of Sir Eobert Walpole, by Dahl\ and a good portrait of Dr. John Sumner, who was Provost from 1756 to 1772. We now proceed to the magnificent Chapel of this College, the principal object of attraction in Cambridge ; and indeed, when we regard its history, its magnitude, its unrivalled series of stained glass windows, and above all, the marvellously perfect condition in which it has been preserved to us, we may rank it as one of the finest and most interesting buildings in Christendom. Its architectural style is that known as the third pointed, or perpendicular gothic, and rich and florid though it be, it shows many tokens, in the depressed arches, the low gables, and the overloaded ornamentation, of the decline of the true principles of gothic art, of which it was one of the last, as well as one of the most sumptuous erections. Its extreme length is three KING S COLLEGE. 77 hundred and sixteen feet; the breadth eighty-four; the height from the ground to the summit of the battle- ments ninety feet; to the top of the pinnacles more than one hundred feet ; and to the top of each of the four corner turrets one hundred and forty-seven. The interior length is two hundred and ninety-one feet ; the breadth forty-six ; and the height seventy-eight feet. It is remarkable that the name of the architect of so celebrated a building is not positively known, but there is good ground for believing it to have been Nicholas Cloos, or Close, who was made a Fellow of the College by Henry VI. in 1443, and was afterwards Bishop of Lichfield, and to whom the King granted a special coat of arms, for his services in building the College. The Chapel, which is de- dicated in honour of SS. Mary and Nicholas, was begun by Henry VI., who is generally supposed to have laid the foundation-stone him- self, under the north-west tower, on S. James's day (July 25), 1446, though there is some uncertainty as to this date. The work pro- ceeded but slowly, and was not advanced to any great extent before his death ; only a small portion of the north and south walls being built, and the eastern end carried up a few feet from the ground. The unhappy wars which disturbed the latter part of his reign, prevented the progress of the work ; added to this Edward IV., his EXTERIOR OP CHAPEL. 78 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. successor seized nearly all the revenues appropriated to the building, without making any adequate compensation. He however proceeded with it in 1479, giving 1000 towards it, and appointing Walter Field overseer of the works. From June 14th, 1483 to March, 22nd, 1484, nothing was done ; when Thomas Cliff was chosen overseer of the works by Richard III., who contributed 700. From this period the works seem to have been at a complete stand-still for nearly twenty-three years, and the building stood in an unfinished state, carried up to the top of the great window at the east end and sloping down to about six feet above the ground at the west end.* At length in 1508 the works were resumed at the expense of King Henry VJLL., and on March 31st, 1509, three weeks before his death, he gave 5000 towards the completion, and his executors, under a power granted by his will, gave a further sum of 5000 for the same purpose, in 1513. It was not till July 29th, 1515, in the 7th year of Henry VIII., that the outside was wholly finished. Nothing more was done till the 18th year of his reign (1526), when an agreement was made, as will hereafter be seen, for the painted windows. The screen and part of the stalls appear to have been put up about eight years later, in the year 1534. The exterior of this building is very striking and grand, though rather monotonous ; at each angle is a lofty octagonal tower, the battlements of pierced work This seems to be indicated by the two kinds of stone employed, the earlier portion being built with magnesian limestone, or Roche Abbey stone, which was apparently changed when the works were resumed, for what, in the contracts is termed Weldon stone ; this difference of material is yery apparent externally. KINO'S COLLEGE. 79 are particularly light and elegant, and on either side are eleven buttresses of four stages, which terminate eleven feet above the battlement in crocketed pin- nacles; these immense buttresses, necessary for the support of the walls and the double roof, would probably have produced a very heavy effect, had not the architect judiciously availed himself of the great lateral pro- jection of the lower stages, and by vaulting these over, produced a series of eighteen small chantries or side chapels, which, while they take off the massiveness of the buttresses externally, add also a most interesting and unique internal feature to this edifice. The interior is still more impressive than the exterior. The vast roof, vaulted throughout with exquisite fan tracery, unsustained by a single pillar, the "dim religious light" shed by the richly painted windows, and the grand and awful per- spective, generally impress the mind of the spectator with a feeling of devotional solemnity almost unearthly. Several of our poets have this INIKHIOR OF CHAPEL. given expression to feeling, but we would in particular refer to Milton's "II Penseroso," and three of Wordsworth's finest sonnets on this subject. This roof is vaulted in twelve divisions, in the centre of each of these is a pendant keystone, terminating alternately in roses and portcullises; and when we add that each keystone weighs more than a 80 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. PEXDAXT KEY-STONE. ton, and is above a yard thick, the light self-poised appearance of this beautiful structure is truly wonder- ful. Over this vaulted stone roof is another of timber, showing great mechanical skill in its construction, and between these two roofs, which are open to the access of visitors, there is ample room for a man to walk upright. The walls on the inside of the ante-chapel form a complete system of panelling, and are ornamented with carved stone work in the highest style of art, consisting of niches, the arms and supporters of Henry VII., with numerous roses, portcullises, and fleurs-de- lis, all crowned. In the middle of one of these roses, at the west end, is a small figure of the Blessed Virgin, "after which foreigners make frequent enquiries, and never fail to pay it a religious reverence, crossing their KING'S COLLEGE. 81 breasts at the sight, and addressing it with a short prayer."* 3 STONE PANEF.L1NG IN A About the middle of the Chapel is a screen and organ-loft of curiously carved oak^^hich separates the ante-chapel from the choir. It was erected in 1534, when Anne Boleyn was Queen. The west side is ornamented with several lovers' knots ; and a panel near the wall on the right, displays the arms of Anne Boleyn impaled with those of the King. On a panel at the upper part of the screen, is a piece of sculpture in very bold relief, representing the Almighty hurling the rebellious angels from heaven. On this screen stands the organ, the case of which was erected in 1606, but the organ itself was almost entirely rebuilt Maiden's account of King's College Chapel. 82 EA3TD-BOOK FOE. VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. in 1803, by Avery. It was again thoroughly repaired and enlarged in 1859-60, when nearly 2000 was expended upon it, and it is now one of the most powerful instruments in the kingdom. The bellows are Worked by water-power ; the ingenious machinery by which it is applied may be seen in the side chapel on the north of the screen. Through folding-doors, in the middle of this partition, carved in openwork, bearing the date 1636, we enter the choir. This in the last century was lengthened by the space of one window ; and from the entrance up to the altar is paved with black and white marble. On each side are the stalls. The back part of the upper row (which is for the graduate Fellows) is ornamented with thirty-four panels; in fifteen of which, on each side of the choir, are carved the arms of all the Kings of England, from Henry V. to James I. ; the arms of the two Universities ; and of the two Colleges, King's and Eton. On each side the entrance are the respective seats of the Provost and Vice-Provost. Behind the Provost's stall, on the right hand of the entrance, is a very fine carving of S. George and the Dragon. The lower stalls are for the undergraduate Fellows, Scholars, and singing-men. In front of these lower stalls, on each side, are benches with desks, for tho use of the choristers. These stalls and the tabernacle-work over them exhibit a proof of the decline of architectural taste during the reign of Henry VIII., and, though of good workmanship, scarcely harmonise with the rest of the Chapel, and the panelling to the east of the stalls is still more incongruous. The Altar-screen was erected from the designs of KING'S COLLEGE. 83 the late James Essex, F.S.A., in 1774. The Altar- piece, which represents the Taking down from the Cross, is a very good painting, by Daniel de Volterra ; it was obtained from the Orleans Gallery by Frederick Earl of Carlisle, and presented by him to this College, of which he was a member. At the entrance to the choir is a very fine brass reading-desk, surmounted by a statuette of Henry VII. ; it was presented by Dr. Hacombleyn, who was Provost of the CoUege, 1509 to 1528. We now come to the magnificent painted glass windows, which for brilliancy of colour, artistic design, complete arrangement, and excellent preservation, are quite invaluable as works of art ; there are in all twenty- six windows, each nearly fifty feet high ; twenty -five of these are painted in the most brilliant and beautiful colours,* the subjects, taken from the Old and New Testament, the Apocrypha, and the spurious gospel of S. Matthew or the birth of Mary, are upwards of one hundred in number. The great west window is the only one left plain, which is not easily to be accounted for, as there is anjjadenture extant, dated the 18th of Henry VIII., whereby certain glaziers of the parish of S. Mary Overy, in Southwark, bound themselves to glaze eighteen of these windows, "with good, dene, sure, and perfyte glasse, and oryent colors and imagery, ivliereof the wyndowe in the este end to bee oon, and the windowe in the weste ende to be another," beyond this there is not the slightest evidence of its ever having been filled with painted glass. Each 84 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. window is separated by mullions into five lights, and these are divided, about the middle, by stone transoms. It will be noticed that, with few exceptions, in the upper parts of the windows the subjects are always taken from the Old Testament; and in the lights immediately under them are representations of certain passages from the New Testament, which for the most part correspond to those from the Old, upon the well-known principle of type and anti-type. Thus in the upper compartments of the fourth window, the types are Abraham performing the ceremony of circum- cision, and the Queen of Sheba offering presents to King Solomon; in the divisions beneath are placed as anti-types, the circumcision of Christ, and the Wise Men's offerings; and thus a peculiar correspondence between the delineations of the upper and lower divisions of the same window is observed throughout the whole. In the central light of each division, four in each window ninety-four in all, are depicted an Angel and a Saint or Prophet, holding scrolls and labels, with the texts of Scripture to explain the sub- jects represented in the other lights, on each side. The east window differs from the others; the upper and lower divisions are separated, by large mullions, into three compartments; and these are again subdivided by smaller ones, into three lights, occupied by one subject. These six subjects are all derived from the New Testament; and represent the Sufferings and Crucifixion of our Lord. Nearly all the original contracts for these fine windows are still in existence, and from them we gather that the date of the glass ranges from 1516 to 1532; that their design and workmanship are entirely English, KING'S COLLEGE. 85 and were executed by establishments in London; and that it is to Henry VII. and his executors, not as is generally believed to Henry VIII., we are indebted for these magnificent works of art. We subjoin an explanation of the paintings in each window. The account must be considered as merely a list of the subjects: their full description would require much more space than can here be given.* In the greater part of them, the energy and variety of character ; the judgment evinced in the grouping of the figures; the boldness and freedom of the pencilling; the richness and brilliancy of the colouring; and the flowing of the draperies, have rarely been exceeded. Commencing at the north-west corner, and counting eastward, we have : FIRST WINDOW. Left side. Right side. Joachim's offering refused by Joachim with the Shepherds, the High Priest. Spurious Spurious Gospel, c. ii. Gospel, c. i. Joachim and Anna at the Birth of the Virgin Mary. golden gate. Spurious Gospel, Spurious Gospel, c. iv. c. iii. SECOND WINDOW. The offering of the Golden The espousals of Tobias and Table in the Temple. Sarah. Tobit vii. Presentation of the Virgin in The espousals of Joseph and the Temple. Spurious Gospel. Mary. Spurious Gospel. THIRD WINDOW. The temptation of Eve. God appearing to Moses in Gen. iii. the burning bush. Exod. iii. The Annunciation of the Vir- The birth of Christ. Matt. gin Mary. Matt. ii. 6 ii. * A more detailed account may be found in a small guide to the Chapel to be obtained of the chapel clerk. 86 HAND-BOOK FOB VI8ITOES TO CAMBRIDGE. FOUBTH WINDOW. Left side. Right side. The ceremony of Circum- The Queen of Sheba offering cision instituted by Abraham, presents to King Solomon. 2 Gen.xxi. Chron. ix. The Circumcision of our The wise men offering gifts Saviour. Luke ii. 21. to Christ. Matt, ii. FIFTH WINDOW. The Purification of Women Jacob, to avoid the fury of under the law. Ex. xiii. 2. Esau, is sent to Haran. Gen. xxvii. 42. The Purification of the Vir- Joseph, to avoid the fury of gin Mary. Luke ii. 22. Herod, travels with Christ into Egypt. Matt. ii. 13. SIXTH WINDOW. Moses destroying the Tables Joash saved from Athaliah. of the Law. Exod. xxxii. 19. 2 Kings xi. The images of Egypt falling Herod's massacre of the In- down before the Infant Jesus, nocents. Matt. ii. 16. Isa. xix. 1. SEVENTH WINDOW. Naaman washing in Jordan. Esau tempted to sell his 2 Kings v. birth-right. Gen. xxv. Christ baptized by John in Christ tempted in the wilder- Jordan. Matt. iii. ness. Matt. iv. EIGHTH WINDOW. Elisha raising the son of the David returning in triumph, Shunamite. 2 Kings iv. with the head of Goliath. 1 Sam. xvii. Christ raising Lazarus from Christ riding in triumph into the dead. John xi. Jerusalem. Matt. xxi. NINTH WINDOW. Manna falling from heaven The casting down of the re- for the Israelites. Wisdom xvi. bellious angels. Baruch vi. The last supper of our Lord. Our Saviour praying in the Luke xxii. garden. The ministering Angel. Luke xxii. KING S COLLEGE. 87 Left side, Cain slaying his Abel. Gen, iv. TENTH WINDOW. Right side. brother Shimei cursing King David. 2 Sam. xvi. 7. Judas betraying Christ. Peter The soldiers mocking Christ, smiting the High Priest's ser- Luke xxii. 64. vant. Matt. xxvi. ELEVENTH WINDOW. Jeremiah imprisoned by King Noah drunken and naked. Zedekiah. Jer. xxxvii. Gen. ix. 21. Christ before Caiaphas the Christ stripped before Herod. High Priest. John xviii. Isa. v. 20. TWELFTH WINDOW. Job tempted by Satan. Job Solomon crowned. Canticles i. and ii. iii. 11. Christ scourged. Jo An xix. Christ crowned with thorns. -John xix. THE GRAND EAST WINDOW. The three lights on The three middle The three lights the left. lights. on the right. The nailing of Christ crucified be-^. / Joseph of Arima- Christ on the Cross. tween two thieves. thea taking down The soldiers cast- Christ from the ing lots for His gar- Cross. Luke xxiii. ments. Luke xxiii. 53. The three lights The three middle The three lights on the left. lights. on the right. The Ecce Homo, Pilate pronounces Our Saviour bear- or Christ exposed sentence on our Sa- ing His Cross. to the people. viour, and declares John xix. 17. John xix. 4. himself innocent of His blood by washing his hands. Matthewxxvii. 24. 88 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. This grand window, as we before observed, is divided into nine lights above, and nine below ; each subject being contained in three lights ; the whole window consisting of six subjects. In the centre of the upper division is the Crucifixion. Jesus is represented on the cross between two thieves. The countenance of the penitent thief expresses the most extreme sorrow, accompanied with tears ; that of his hardened companion is as strongly marked with derision and mockery. Below the Saviour is Mary- Magdalene embracing the cross, and in the foreground three soldiers, casting lots for His garments. On the left are S. John and the Virgin. In the upper division, on the left, is Christ nailed to the cross. Pilate's countenance here, as throughout the history, expresses remorse. Jesus is extended on the cross; His body appears drawn up, and lying hollow, from the violence of the pain inflicted by driving the nails through His hands. On the right side is Christ taken from the cross. Every muscle of the Sacred Body appears relaxed by death. On the left is the Virgin and S. John; the former fainting, and a female supporting her. The centre of the lower division represents Pilate washing his hands, and declaring himself innocent of the blood of Jesus. Below the judgment-seat is Christ bound, with a crown of thorns on His head, and surrounded by several figures, who are strongly cha- racterized. In the lower division on the left, is Christ delivered to be crucified. The right side represents Christ bearing the Cross. Pilate appears on horseback, ac- companied by a high priest and many attendants. Jesus, nearly fainting with fatigue, is receiving a handkerchief KING'S COLLEGE. 89 from a female;* preceding Christ is a soldier holding the cords of the cross, with features expressive of the most ferocious brutality ; near him is a man bearing a hammer, with malignant exultation painted in his countenance ; in the distance is Mount Calvary. Having endeavoured to give an outline of the principal objects in this celebrated window,! we proceed to the remaining twelve windows on the south side : FOURTEENTH WINDOW. The elevation of the Brazen Serpent, from a picture by Ilubens. Modern glass by Hedgland. J Left side. Right Side. The lamentation of Naomi The lamentation of Mary and her daughters for the death Magdalene and others for the of their husbands. Ruth i. death of Christ. John xix. 25. FIFTEENTH WINDOW. Joseph cast into a pit by his The Exodus of the Israelites brethren. Genesis xxxvii. 24. from Egypt. Ex. xiv. Christ laid in His grave by Christ's dessesnt into Hell. Joseph of Arimathea. Matt. (Spurious Gospel.) xxvii. 60. SIXTEENTH WINDOW. Jonah coming forth from the Tobias returning to ' his whale's belly. Jonah ii. mother. Tobit xi. 6. Christ rising from the dead. Christ appearing to His Matt, xxviii. mother. (Golden Legend.) * No doubt referring to the legend of S. Veronica. + A fine drawing of this window was executed by the late Mr. J. K. Baldrey, who published a beautiful coloured print from it. t The lower lights of this window were originally loft blank, but about 1846 the glass from the upper lights was removed to the lower part, and its place filled with the above. 90 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITOBS TO CAMBRIDGE. SEVENTEENTH WINDOW. Left side. Reuben coming to the pit to seek his brother Joseph. Gen. xxxvii. 29. The women going to the sepul- chre to seek Jesus. Mark xvi. EIGHTEENTH The Angel'appearing to Hab- bacuc. Bel and Dragon 33 35. Christ appearing to two of His disciples on the way to Em- maus. Luke xxiv. 15. Right side. in the lions' den, by Darius. Daniel Daniel addressed vi. 30. Our Lord appearing to Mary Magdalene. John xx. 15. WINDOW. Habbacuc feeding Daniel. Bel and Dragon 36. Christ breaking bread with two of His disciples at Emmaus. Luke xxiv. 30. NINETEENTH WINDOW. The prodigal son acknow- Joseph meeting his father ledging and renouncing his past and brethren in Egypt. Gen. life. Luke xv. xlvi. S. Thomas acknowledging Christ appearing to His and laying aside his incredulity, eleven Apostles. Matthew John xx. 28. xxviii. 16, 17. TWENTIETH WINDOW. Elijah taken up to heaven in a The law given to Moses from chariot of fire ; and Elisha catch- Sinai. Exod. xx. ing his mantle. 2 Kings ii. Christ ascending into heaven. The Holy Ghost given to the Luke xxiv. Apostles. Acts ii. 4. TWENTY-FIRST WINDOW. SS. Peter and John healing the lame man at the beautiful gate of the temple. Acts iii. The lame man healed, walking before SS. Peter and John into the temple. Acts iii. The imprisonment and scourging of SS. Peter and John. Acts v. The death Acts v. of Ananias.* * A fine water coloured drawing of this window, by the late Mr. J. K. Baldrey, is in the possession of the Printer. COLLEGE. 91 TWENTY-SECOND WINDOW. Left side. Right side. The conversion of S. Paul. S. Paul preaching and dispu- Acts ix. ting at Damascus. In the dis- tance is a small figure of S. Paul, whom the disciples are letting down from the walls of Damascus in a basket. Acts ix. SS. Paul and ^Barnabas about S. Paul stoned. Acts xiv. to be reverenced as gods. 19. Acts xiv. 11. TWENTY-THIRD WINDOW. S. Paul casting out a spirit S. Paul before King Agrippa. of divination from a woman. Acts xxvi. Acts xvi. 16. S. Paul's friends dissuading S. Paul before the Roman him from his intended voyage governor Felix. Acts xxiv. to Jerusalem. A very beautiful figure of the ship in which he sailed to Caesarea. Acts xxi. TwENTY-FoUHTH WlNDOW.* The death of Tobit, The burial of Jacob. The death of the Virgin. The burialef the Virgin. TWENTY-FIFTH WlNDOW. The translation of Enoch (?) Solomon placing Bathsheba on a throne. The Assumption of the Virgin. Coronation of the Virgin. The tracery at the top of all these windows is filled with the initials, badges, cognizances, &c. of Henry VII., and his Queen, and of Henry VIII. and Katharine of Arragon: they consist of the rose and portcullis the fleur-de-lis the crown on a hawthorn bush the pomegranate, &c., and are well worthy of notice. * These last two windows are so much injured that they require much patient study to make them out. 92 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. It has frequently been reported, but erroneously, that all the windows of the Chapel were taken down and concealed, at the time when the fanaticism of the Long Parliament induced them to employ Commissioners to destroy all superstitious ornaments. By what influence these paintings were preserved is uncertain, as visitors were certainly sent down to Cambridge, who ordered the organ to be removed, and sold its pipes ; but it is supposed the windows were spared through the in- fluence of Dr. Whichcote, a very moderate man who had been appointed Provost by the Parliament. On each side of this building are the before-mentioned small chantries or chapels, each twenty feet by ten, built between the buttresses ; and, mostly, communica- ting with each other. They were undoubtedly originally intended to have been fitted up with altars, and traces of this arrangement may be found in many of them; those on the north side have till of late been used as burial places. Counting from the west end on this side, we find in the eighth chantry an interesting brass, to William Towne, D.D., who died 1495, and no doubt in this little chapel mass was said for many years for the repose of his soul. The chantry nearest the east, on the south side, was similarly used for Dr. Argentine, Provost, who died 1507: there is a good brass to his memory, now moved to the last chantry on this side, as this and the five next chantries to the west, now contain the valuable College muniments, and are closed to the public. Still proceeding westward, the next is Dr. Brassie's chantry, and contains a brass to that Provost, who died 1558. There is some fine painted glass in this chantry, the oldest in the building, which was removed from one KING'S COLLEGE. 93 of the north chapels, representing full length figures of SS. Peter, Philip, Nicholas, James the great, and others : this was partially restored in 1857. Next to this is the very interesting chapel of Provost Hacombleyn, which he richly decorated himself, and selected for his burial place. His fine brass with its humble epitaph remains on the floor, a most striking contrast to the huge pretentious marble cenotaph, with its lengthy inflated inscription, which encroaches upon it ; this is to the memory of the marquis of Blandford, son of the great Duke of Marlborough, who died in this College in 1703. An original prayer-desk remains here, and is a fine example of wood carving. The roof bears traces of having been once richly coloured and gilded ; in the south window is some exquisite painted glass, especially the portraits of Henry VI. and S. Nicholas, and in the window looking into the ante- chapel, beautiful miniature glass paintings of S. Chris- topher, S. Anne, the Annunciation, 8. Ursula and the eleven thousand virgins, and S. Nicholas; there are also some elegant flowered quarries-^scattered about this window. Before leaving the Chapel the Visitor should ascend by the staircase, in the north-west turret, to the top of the roof, from whence is obtained a fine bird's-eye view of the University and Town, and a very extensive prospect of the flat district in the midst of which Cam- bridge stands ; nor should he fail to take a short walk in the space between the two wonderful roofs. Choral service is performed in this Chapel every afternoon at four o'clock, and on Sundays at half-past three ; also on the mornings of Sundays, Saints' days, and other Festivals, except in the vacations, when it 94 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. is performed only on Sundays. On the feast day of the College, March 25th, the Annunciation of the Virgin, a sermon is preached here by one of the Fellows of the College, before the Vice-Chancellor and the University, who attend here on that day instead of using the University Church. Eminent Men: Nicholas Cloos, or Close, supposed to be the Architect of the College, Bishop of Lichfield, 1453. Robert Woodlark, D.D., Provost, founder of S. Catharine's College. Thomas de Rotheram, Lord Chancellor, Archbishop of York, 1500. Sir Francis Walsingham, Principal Secretary of State to Queen Elizabeth, 1573. Phineas Fletcher, Author of the "Purple Island." John Pearson, Bishop of Chester, and Author of the celebrated "Exposition of the Creed," 1686. Edmund Waller, the Poet, 1687. Sir Robert Walpole, Earl of Orford, K.G., and Prime Minister to George I. and George II, 1746. Horace Walpole, the celebrated letter- writer, 1797. Rev. Charles Simeon, Author of the "Horse Homileticse" 1835. Charles, Earl Grey, K.G., the Prime Minister who took charge of the Reform BUI, 1845. We may add that Dr. John Bird Sumner, the present estimable archbishop of Canterbury is also a member of this College. This Society consists of a Provost, fifty-eight Fellows, and twelve Scholars ; the latter are supplied in regular succession from Eton College, whenever a vacancy occurs, and become Fellows exactly three years after their admission as scholars. There are no other Under- graduates, consequently the numbers on the boards are but small, generally about one hundred and forty. Its revenues are very large, amounting to nearly 30,000 per annum. KING 8 COLLEGE. 95 We must not leave this College without asking our Visitor to extend his walk through the beautiful grounds KINO'S BRIDGE. which lie to the west, and particularly^ we invite him to pause a few minutes upon the bridge, to enjoy the lovely views on both sides of it ; to the right he will see the imposing front of the Fellows' building, and the stately west end of the chapel; immediately before him, the palatial buildings of Clare College, with its picturesque bridge ; the various college grounds, bridges, and avenues, fill up the view, bounded in the distance by the noble chestnut trees which adorn the grounds of Trinity College. On the other side of the bridge the view is of a more retired and sombre character ; in the distance to the left are the spires and turrets and monastic-looking buildings of Queens' College, and extending along the side of the 96 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. river, the terraced walk and quiet shady grove of the same society ; the venerable avenue at right angles with this, tradition has long pointed out as the favourite walk of Erasmus; and in deference to this tradition, the University some years ago purchased it of the town, by whom it had been doomed to destruction. Leaving this College by the entrance gateway, and crossing the street to the left, a narrow passage conducts us to . tffotoarfc's Cjmrrjr, WHICH, notwithstanding its uninviting exterior, is well worthy of a visit. The nave is a beautiful example of the decorated style, and was erected about 1350. The S. MABY THE GEEAT. 97 proportions of the lofty lancet arches are very elegant and almost unique ; the side aisles attached to the chancel, were added to the church to serve as chapels for Clare College and Trinity Hall, before they had chapels of their own ; these portions of the church are of late perpendicular character. The tower, which is the earliest portion of the edifice, was erected towards the close of the 12th century; the font is very elegant. Much interest attaches to this church from Bishop Latimer having preached in it, and from its having been the first in which the late Rev. Charles Simeon officiated; it has lately been restored internally, at a considerable cost; the chancel was undertaken by members of the University, as a testimonial to Dr. Harvey Groodwin, the present Dean of Ely : the exterior of this building, and the church-yard, are far from attractive. Returning to King's Parade, and continuing our course northwards, we soon arrive at the noble square having the Senate-House on the north, /King's Chapel on the south, Great S. Mary's or the University Church on the east, and the Public Library on the west : our most convenient course will be to visit first the Ctrt jof S. llarg tye tat, So called in contradistinction to S. Mary the Less, already described ; this, though in all other respects a parochial edifice, is also the Church of the University, the members of which resort here on Sunday afternoons between the first Sunday in October, and the second Sunday in June, to hear sermons which are usually H 98 HAOT)-BOOK FOE VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. delivered by select preachers, appointed by a Grace of the Senate, for a series of consecutive Sundays, arranged according to the seasons of the church. This edifice, though built at a period when gothic archi- tecture was rapidly declining, is a fine and enriched speci- men of the late perpendicular style, it was erected by volun- tary contributions, but the subscriptions came in very slowly and the work lingered on through several genera- tions ; the body of the Church was commenced in 1478, and completed in 1519, but the tower progressed still more slowly, and we gather from the accounts in the parish books, that it was raised a few feet at a time, as the money came in, and was then thatched over till additional funds enabled them to proceed, so that it was not till 1608, or one hundred and thirty years after its commencement, that the church was finished; and this completion is incidentally noticed in the following quaint epitaph on the eastern wall of the chancel, written in memory of John Warren, who held the office of churchwarden in that year, and under whose management the work was brought to a conclusion : A speakinge Stone Reason may chaunce to blame But did it knowe Those ashes here doe lie OP 8. MAKY THE GREAT. S. MARY THE GREAT. 99 Which brought the stones That hide the steepls shame It would affirme There were no reason why Stones should not speake Before theyr builder die For here John Warren Sleeps amonge the dead Who with the Church His owne Life finished Anno Domini 1608 December 17. The length, of the church is about one hundred and twenty feet, and the breadth sixty-eight, but these fine proportions are entirely lost, as it is impossible to get an uninterrupted view of the interior, owing to its ex- traordinary arrangement, the chancel being completely hidden from view by a massive wooden structure called the Throne or Doctors' Gallery, in which are the seats of the Vice-Chancellor, Heads of Colleges, Noblemen, Doctors, and Professors ; the aisles are^also completely roofed over by extensive galleries for the Bachelors and Undergraduates, and another gallery at the west end supports the organ and blocks up the west window. The floor of the nave is called the pit, and is filled with singular moveable seats for the Proctors, Masters of Arts, Fellow-Commoners, &c. A design for the more seemly arrangement of this noble interior is now under the consideration of the University authorities, which it is hoped may very shortly be adopted and carried out. The piers and arches have very good mouldings, and the carved tracery over these and over what was the chancel arch, is very enriched and of beautiful design ; the chancel has recently been H2 100 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITOKS TO CAMBRIDGE. . faced with stone, and new windows have been inserted in place of others of debased character. On the south wall is a curious monument to the celebrated Dr. Butler, the most eminent physician of his day; he died 1618. The exterior of this church presents rather a plain appearance owing to the windows having all been deprived of their tracery, in order to give more light when the galleries were built up against them. But the tower is a noble structure, and finely proportioned, it contains twelve bells, one of the finest peals in the kingdom; the great bell especially, which tolls every evening, from nine o'clock till a quarter past, is remarkably rich in tone. The elegant west doorway was inserted in 1851 from a design by G. Gr. Scott, Esq., and above this is the curious clock with its stone face which was restored at the same time ; all distances from Cambridge are measured from a circle cut in the south west buttress of the tower. The chancel was the burial place of the celebrated reformer Martin Bucer, whose body was disinterred in the reign of Queen Mary and burnt in the market-place. On leaving this church, we cross to the north-west corner of the square to the eastern entrance of THIS is a fine example of the classical architecture of the 18th century; the architect was James Gibbs, who * May be seen on application to Mr. Henry Boning the school-keeper, who resides in Pembroke Street. THE SENATE-HOUSE. 101 FBONT OF THE SENATB-HOUSE. erected the Fellows' building of King's College. It is built of Portland stone, and the south elevation especially has a very imposing appearance; in the centre of this front is a noble pediment, sup- ported by four fluted Corin- thian columns, with richly carved capitals ; under this, as- cended by a lofty flight of steps, is what was the grand entrance, but it has long been disused. The whole exterior of the building is of the Corinthian order, and with the exception of the entrances, is ornamented with a range of square plain pilasters with rich capitals, between two rows of sash windows; above these is an ornate entablature, finished off by a hand- some stone balustrade. The eastern entrance* is now the only one used, this also has a pediment supported by fluted columns similar to that on the south; the interior forms a noble room, admirably proportioned, it is one hundred and one feet long, forty-two broad, and thirty-two high, and is ornamented with wainscot carvings, and galleries of Norway oak : the gallery at the east end over the entrance is supported by four fluted Doric columns of the same wood ; and at the upper end are four similar columns supporting a pediment The gates and ths plinths of the palisadoes at this entrance, are like those at the Mansion House, London. They were erected in the Vice-Chan- cellorship of Dr. Lowther Yates (1779-80), -who had just previously hcen Chaplain to the Lord Mayor of London. 102 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. richly carved ; under which, and raised on steps, is the Vice-Chancellor's chair. When the Queen visits the University, her Majesty occupies this chair, which is then surmounted by a handsome canopy of crimson cloth, with an enriched cornice and a crown on the top of the dome: on each side are semicircular seats for the Heads of Colleges, Noblemen, and Doctors; and below is the chair in which the Vice- Chancellor sits to confer degrees. The Proctors' and Eegistrary's tables are on the right and left. In the corner, on the right hand of the chair, is a small robing room for the Doctors, and on the left a private staircase to ascend the gallery. The public business of the Uni- versity, such as examinations, the passing of graces, and admission to degrees, is carried on in this spacious room ; and spectators are accommodated in the galleries, which are capable of containing about one thousand persons. The ceiling has a fine effect, it is richly ornamented with stucco-work, executed with much taste ; and the floor is of black and white marble. The staircases to the galleries are at the sides of the eastern entrance. In the middle of the floor, on the north side, is a fine statue of George I. by JRysbrack, erected at the expense of Lord Viscount Townshend; but he dying before it was finished, it was completed by direction of his son. On the pedestal are inscriptions to that effect. Opposite this, on the south side, is a statue of Greorge II. by Wilton, erected in 1766, at the expense of Thomas Holies, Duke of Newcastle, Chancellor of the University. At the east end, on each side of the entrance, are two other statues. The one on the south side represents THE SENATE-HOUSE. 103 Charles, "the Proud Duke of Somerset," when young, dressed in the Vandyck style, and adorned with the insignia of the Order of the Garter. It was executed by Jlysbrack, and is universally esteemed a fine piece of sculpture. The Duke is represented leaning on a pedestal, in a graceful and easy posture, and holding out a roll in his right hand. His Grace was Chancellor of the University from 1689 to 1748. On the north side is an admirable statue, in the finest Carrara marble, of the Eight Hon. William Pitt, from the chisel of Nollekens. The expense of it was defrayed by a liberal subscription amongst the members of the University, upwards of 7,000 being speedily raised for that purpose. The likeness of the illustrious statesman is correct, the attitude easy and dignified, and the disposition of the drapery at once skilful and natural : it is considered to be the sculptor's chef d'ceuvre. An emblematical statue of Glory by John Ba/ratta of Florence, was removed from here in 1812, in order to give place to the statue of Mr. Pitt: the following spirited epigram was written by a lady upon the occasion : Sons of Sapience, you here a fair emblem display, For wherever Pitt went, he drove Glory away. The answer is by a member of the University : ; Why thus exclaim, and thus exert your wit, At making Glory here give place to Pitt? We'll raise his Statue of the finest stone, For never here a brighter Glory shone. This statue is now in the Law Schools. The building of the Senate-House cost nearly 20,000, about 11,000 of which consisted of public subscrip- tions. His Majesty King George I. also gave 2,000; 104 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. George II. 3,000, and Thomas Holies, Duke of Newcastle, then High Steward of the University, 1,000 towards it, and numerous smaller contributions completed the sum. The foundation was laid on the 22nd of June, 1722, and about the year 1730 the edifice was so far completed as to be used for University business, but it was not till 1768 that the west end was entirely finished. Descending the steps on the right-hand side as we leave the Senate-House, we find ourselves in a spacious railed enclosure in the centre of which stands an exact model in bronze of the noble WARWICK VASE, pre- sented to the University by the late Duke of North- umberland in 1842, who was at that time Chancellor. Beyond this to the west is WHICH presents a handsome front of the Italian style supported on an open arcade, and finished with a balustrade surmounted by six large richly carved urns. This part of the library was rebuilt by subscription in 1775 by Stephen Wright; King George H. con- tributing the munificent sum of 3,000 towards it. The precise date of the origin of the University Library cannot be ascertained, but its principal founder was the munificent Thomas de Rotheram, Archbishop of * Persons who are not members of the University on visiting the Library must be accompanied by a Graduate. It is open on Saturdays from ten till one, and on other days from ten till four, except on certain saints' days and holydays, and other occasions when it is entirely closed for cleaning and inspection. THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY. 105 SKNATE-HOTJSE AND TAUT OP LIBRARY. York, and Lord Privy Seal to Edward IV., who was likewise a contributor to S. Mary's Church, and one of the founders of Lincoln College, Oxford; the date of his benefaction is 1475, about which time he erected a library and presented to it seventy-nine books : the gateway of his building now forms the entrance to the stables at Madingley Hall. Entering the Library we find in the vestibule several very interesting relics of antiquity, the most striking of which is the famous antique colossal statue of the goddess Ceres, brought from the Temple at Eleusis, by the late Dr. E. D. Clarke and Mr. Cripps of Jesus College, and presented by those gentlemen to the University. The pedestal was designed by Maxman, from the original in the portico of the temple of Minerva Polias at Athens. This statue weighs one ton and a half, and was placed here July 1st, 1803. Near this specimen of Grecian sculpture, is a relic 106 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. which must ever be interesting to the University the Cippus or Urn from the tomb of Euclid. A valuable collection of antique marbles, inscriptions, and bas- reliefs, chiefly brought from the shores of the Euxine Archipelago and Mediterranean by the same gentlemen, rest on the floor, or cover the walls. Amongst them, the following are worthy the attention of the scholar and antiquary: A representation, in marble, of an ancient scenic mask, from the ruins of the Theatre of Stratoniee, presented by the Rev. Eobert Walpole, of Trinity College. An altar of Parian marble, brought from Delos. A marble bas-relief, brought from Athens by the late Earl of Aberdeen. An excellent piece of sculpture, in bas-relief, re- presenting Victory in her car; found in the Castle of Pergamos in Lydia, and brought hither by the late Captain George Clarke, E.N., brother of the celebrated traveller. Here is also a fine bust of the late Dr. E. D. Clarke, executed by Chantrey. The ascent to the Library is by a staircase of stone ; here are portraits of King James I., Charles I. when a Prince, King Charles II., Bishops Bancroft and Gunning, Theodore Beza, Sir Thomas Gooch, Lord Townshend and others ; under the window is a very fine full length of Anthony Shepherd, D.D., Professor of Astronomy, by Vanderpuyle ; there is also a curious view of London in 1647. The Library contains about two hundred thousand printed books, and upwards of three thousand MSS. of almost every age and language ; the collection TILE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY. 107 of manuscripts has lately been considerably enriched by some which are probably among the most ancient that the East can produce. Part were presented to the University by Dr. Claudius Buchanan, late Principal of the College of Fort William in Bengal ; and others were the bequest of the celebrated traveller Burckhardt. That division of it at which it is entered, is called the Old Library; at the end of this range is a square compartment, lighted by a dome. Here is a cabinet given by the late Ven. Archdeacon Lewis, which con- tains some valuable oriental manuscripts, and other curiosities ; in the upper part is a beautiful copy of the Koran, remarkable for the excellence of the writing. In this square are the portraits of the Eev. Henry Martyn, the martyr missionary, of Professor Porson, also an admirable bust in marble of the Eev. Charles Simeon. In the next range which forms the western division, is a case in which is preserved with/ great care and under strict regulations, a collection of about thirty books and other documents relating to the Papacy, presented to the Library by the Rev. Eobt. James M'Grhee, in 1840. Some curious drawings and prints are also preserved here: among the latter is a large folio of Eembrandt's etchings, extremely rare and valuable. King George I. bought for six thousand guineas, and presented to the Library, the collection of Dr. Moore, Bishop of Ely, amounting to thirty thousand printed volumes, with a considerable number of MSS. which are deposited chiefly in this compartment.* He * This noble donation, gave rise to the following -witty Epigrams : the first is by Dr. Trapp, the Poet, an Oxford man, and zealous Tory : 108 HA1TD-BOOK FOR VISITOE8 TO CAMBBIDGE. also munificently gave the further sum of 2,000 to- wards the fitting up of this and the northern division of the Library. The third or northern division, served as the Senate- House to the University, or Regent-house as it was then called, before the erection of the present building ; in it the catalogues of the Library are kept, in which every book is entered under the name of the author if it appears on the title, and if there is no author's name it is entered under the first significant word : each volume is marked with three numbers describing (1) the class, (2) the shelf, (3) the order on the shelf of every book; these numbers are so registered against the titles of the books in the catalogue, that any required volume may at once be found, thus affording prompt and easy reference to every book in this large collection. On the left-hand side of this room a corkscrew stair- case conducts us to two rooms on the ground floor, which have been recently appropriated to the use of the Library, here are kept the parliamentary reports, novels, music, &c. Notwithstanding this increase of space additional room is urgently demanded, the Library " The King observing, with, judicious eyes, The state of both his Universities, To one he sends a regiment; for whyt That learned body wanted loyalty. To the other books he gave, as well discerning How much that loyal body wanted learning." The answer by Sir William Browne, of S. Peter's College, a staunch Whig, is generally admired : " The King to Oxford sent his troop of horse, For Tories own no argument but force ; With equal care to Cambridge, books he sent, For Whigs allow no force but argument." THE UNIVERSITY LIBKAEY. 109 being over crowded, and quite inadequate for the re- ception of the large additions constantly made to it. The east room, entered at the right-hand corner of the catalogue room, occupies the front of the Library, and is the most ornamented room in the building, the ceiling and the original oak fittings being very hand- some ; in this apartment two divisions are screened off and kept locked, as they contain the more valuable illustrated works ; in another division is a collection of County Histories, and other topographical works ; and at the further end is an excellent whole length painting by Reinagle of Mr. John Nicholson, a well-known Cambridge bookseller who died in 1796. Returning to the catalogue room we ascend a stair- case, on the north side leading into the new room which forms the northern side of what is intended to be an entirely new Library, to consist of a spa- cious quadrangle occupying the site of the present Library and of the Old Court of King's College ; this lofty and noble room was built from a design by Mr. Cockerell,* and was completed in 1842, funds amounting to 22,142, were raised by contributions from members of the University ; the remainder of the cost which included the fittings was defrayed out of the Library fund, the total amount being 31,712. It is one hundred and sixty-seven feet long, thirty-six feet high, and forty-five wide ; in the galleries on either side are kept the long sets of Magazines, Reviews, and other periodical literature, and each compartment on the floor is devoted to some special class of literature, such * An engraving of Mr. Cockerell's design for the complete building will be found in the Memorials of Cambridge. 110 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. as the Holy Scriptures, the Fathers of the Church, Sermons, &c. Under a glass case near the entrance into this room may be seen a most valuable MS. of the Four Gospels and Acts of the Apostles, in uncial letters, on vellum, in Greek and Latin, claiming especial notice. It was presented to the University by the celebrated Theodore Beza, in 1581 : it had been in his possession about nineteen years, and was found in the monastery of Saint Irenseus at Lyons, where it had lain concealed for a long time. It is considered to be one of the most ancient manuscripts of the Gospels extant. A splendid and most accurate facsimile of it was published at the expense of the University, in 1793, under the editorial care of Dr. Thomas Kipling. Among the rare and valuable works preserved in the lock-up compartments in this room, is a fine MS. of Wycliffe's translation of the Bible in folio written on vellum; several fine illuminated missals, &c., and oriental MSS. ; a small but beautiful MS. collection of prayers, written on vellum by Edward Courtenay, and addressed to the princess Anne by whom it was pre- sented to her nephew, King Edward VI., whose auto- graph it bears in two places ; also a splendid Persian MS. written in 1388, entitled " The Wonders of the Creation;" being a treatise on Astronomy and Natural History. This elegant manuscript is embellished with drawings of beasts, birds, reptiles, and other figures to illustrate the descriptions. Some of these are finely executed, the paintings are ornamented with gold, intermixed with the most beautiful colours, and the volume is enveloped in a remarkably superb binding. Here too are several first editions of the Greek and Latin Classics, and many works executed by the early printers, espe- THE UNIVERSITY LIBHABY. Ill cially the chief of those by William Caxton, the first printer in England. Amongst the more rare are, the Catholicon, printed by Faust, in 1460; Cicero's Offices, Mentz, 1466 ; Cicero's Orations, 1470, and Cicero's Epistles, on vellum, 1741, both printed by Cornelius Janson; The ook of Chess, by Caxton, in 1474 this was the first book printed in England; and Plim/'s Natural History, on vellum, 1476, with a beautiful type. There is also a fine copy of King James the First's works in Latin, presented by his Majesty. It is bound in velvet and gold, and embellished with the royal arms, and has the autograph, " Jacobus E., D.D." The basement story of this part of the building is appropriated to the "Woodwardian Museum, which we shall come to a little farther on in our route. This Library is entitled by Act of Parliament to a copy of every new book published in the kingdom. It is also supported by the bequests of Tobias Eustat, Esq., and William Worts, Esq., and all the members of the University (some few being exempted) make to it a small yearly contribution. The late Eev. John Manistre, Fellow of King's College, also bequeathed 5000, to purchase books. The management is committed to Syndics, who are the Vice-Chancellor and sixteen members of the Senate, four of whom retire in rotation every year, and their places are supplied by four other members elected by the Senate. They meet in the Library on every alternate Wednesday in term time; and to them, or the major part, not fewer than five, of whom the Vice-Chancellor must always be one, full powers are committed for the better regulating of the same. All members of the Senate, and Bachelors in the 112 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITOB8 TO CAMBBIDGE. Civil Law and in Physic, are entitled to the use of the Library, and may have as many as ten volumes in their possession at a time. Bachelors of Arts are allowed five volumes. The Syndicate also with great liberality grant ad- mission tickets, for the purpose of study and research, to persons not members of the University, upon receiving recommendations in writing signed by two members of the Senate ; this ticket entitles them to consult the catalogue and to refer to any of the books between the hours of ten and two ; an invaluable privilege to all those engaged in literary pursuits, and of which several gratefully avail themselves. The basement story of the quadrangle forming the University Library is occupied by OF the University, which were originally held in private houses, hired for the purpose every ten years ; but this mode of engaging apartments being found inconvenient, the PUBLIC SCHOOLS were commenced somewhat before the year 1400, and completed about the year 1475, on the spot where they now stand, at the expense of the University, assisted by liberal benefactions. The chief contributors and promoters were Sir Robt. Thorpe, Lord Chancellor of England, who died in 1372; his brother Sir Wm. Thorpe, Baron of the Exchequer, who died about 1398; Laurence Booth, Bishop of Durham, in 1475 ; and Archbishop Thomas de Eotheram, before mentioned. TKINITY HALL. 113 There are a few traces externally, in the buttresses, doorways, &c., of the original building, but internally there is nothing whatever worthy of notice ; the principal apartment is fitted up as a lecture-room. In the project already mentioned respecting the New Library the rebuilding of the Schools is included, and the University is also about to erect an entirely new series of Museums and Lecture-rooms on the site of the old Botanic garden, at a cost of something like 30,000. Passing out on the north side of this enclosed square, between the new wing of the Library and the west end of the Senate-House, we get a good view im- mediately before us of the celebrated Gate of Honour of Gronville and Caius College, which we shall shortly return to ; for the present, keeping to the left, we soon arrive at a lofty modern stone building in which is the entrance gateway to ail;* THIS rather heavy structure, though not very collegiate in appearance, replaces one which was burnt down in 1851, of still less architectural pretension, we give an engraving of each building. This Collegef was originally one of the Hostels for the accommodation of Students ; but was purchased The Porter's Lodge is under the small gateway to the left. t This is the only College which retains its original designation of Hall. A few years ago there were three others so called, Pembroke, Clare, and S. Catharine's ; the first of these changed its appellation about thirty years since, the two latter quite recently to avoid being confounded -with the " Private Halls" contemplated in the University Act, but afterwards changed to "Hostels," (see p. 17). It is much to be regretted that such venerable I 114 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. FRONT OF TRINITY HALL BEFORE THE FIRE. by John de Crauden, prior of Ely, in the reign of Edward III. for the monks of Ely to study in. It was afterwards enlarged by Kichard de Herling, Chan- cellor of the University; and, in the year 1350, was obtained of the prior and convent of Ely by William Bateman, Bishop of Norwich, with the lands thereto appertaining ; who, having procured the King's licence, constituted it a " perpetual college of scholars of canon and civil law in the University of Cambridge, to be institutions should change the name by which they have been known upwards of five hundred years, upon a needless alarm. As a Trinity^College already existed, Trinity Hall was luckily unable to modernize^itself, but we believe it was proposed even to call this "Bateman's College" after the founder. Halls in Cambridge were in every respect the same as Colleges, which is not the case at Oxford. TRINITY HALL. 115 called the College of the Scholars of the Holy Trinity of Norwich, and the house which the said College should inhabit to be named the Hall of the Holy Trinity of Nor- wich," (see p. 3). The Bishop originally in- tended it for a Master and twenty Fellows; but dying at Avignon, in 1355, before the com- pletion of his design, the endowment was only | found sufficient for the maintenance of a Master, three Fellows, and two Scholars, who were to be students in the 7 Canon and Civil Law, and also one Fellow to study Divinity, and be Chaplain to the College. The foundation was, however, between that time and the middle of the 16th century, greatly augmented by successive benefactors. This College, in accordance with the Founder's inten- tions, is more particularly appropriated to the study of the Civil Law, the Professor of that faculty being always a member of the Society. It is situated on the banks of the river, and consists of three Courts. The first Court, which occupies its original site, is another instance, similar to the second court of S. Peter's College, in which all features of antiquity are hidden under a uniform casing of stone; during the first half of the 18th century this court was thus i2 116 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. refaced, sash windows were at the same time inserted, the Hall entirely rebuilt and the Chapel much altered ; the eastern side, as before stated, was erected after the fire of 1851, among the ruins of which many traces of the 14th century architecture were discovered under the modernized exterior. The Chapel, which measures forty-three feet by eighteen, has undergone many changes since its first foundation ; it was fitted up as it now stands in 1729, and is adorned at the east end with a fine painting of the Presentation in the Temple, by Stella. The roof is coved, and ornamented with the armorial bearings of the Founder, Benefactors, and eminent members. In the ante-chapel are the remains of some curious brasses and other monuments. The Hall is a handsome room, thirty-six feet long, twenty-four broad, and twenty-five high; it is fitted up in the Italian style, and has a gallery for music at the north end. At the upper end is a fine portrait of Sir Nathaniel Lloyd, Knight, with whose bequest of 3,000 towards improving the College, this apartment was principally rebuilt about 1 745 : here is also a well- executed bust of the late celebrated Earl of Mansfield, by Nollekens, the gift of Sir James Marriott, a former Master. The figure on his Lordship's monument in Westminster Abbey was taken from this bust. The Combination-room contains the portraits of Dr. John Andrew, Dr. James Johnson, Clement Corbet, Master, 1652, the Earl of Chesterfield, and others. The passage leading to the Hall conducts us to the second Court, picturesque in appearance and pleasantly situated, opening towards the garden on the west ; on the south side is the Master's Lodge, a commodious TRINITY HALL. 117 residence which, has been greatly improved by the present Master ; the tipper part of the north side forms the Library, a venerable looking building, which is judiciously classed, and contains, besides a large number of choice miscellaneous books, a more complete collection of the Canon, Civil, and Common Law than can be easily found elsewhere in England ; on the walls are portraits of Archbishops Bancroft, Abbot, Laud, Williams, and several others. The third Court lies to the south of the first court, and was built in 1823 of white brick and in the plainest and most uncollegiate style. Eminent Men: Stephen Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, Master till his death, 1555. Lord Howard of Effingham, the commander against the Spanish Armada, 1573. Thomas Tusser, the poet, author of " One hundred points of good husbandry," 1580. Gabriel Harvey, the poet, 1631. Robert Herrick, the poet, 1674. Philip Dormer Stanhope, the celebrated Earl of Chesterfield, 1773. Sir Herbert Jenner Fust, dean of Arches, 1852. This College also boasts of two very distinguished living members, Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton, the novelist, poet, statesman, and orator; and Sir Alexander Cock- burn, the present Lord Chief Justice of England; it has lately been in a very flourishing condition, and numbers upwards of eighty students and two hundred and fifty members. There are thirteen Fellowships and sixteen Scholarships; gross income nearly 4,000. On leaving this College by the gateway of the farther court, the Visitor should turn towards the left to observe 118 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. a small space railed off from a corner of the street containing a few shrubs. This was originally laid out as a tiny garden by the late Dr. Jowett, a man of small stature, but an excellent and distinguished Fellow of this Society, and gave rise to the following witty epigram : This little garden little Jowett made, Surrounded with this little palisade, But little wit had little Doctor Jowett, And little did this little garden show it. Continuing our course to the right we come to the beautiful mutilated gateway of the old court of King's College before mentioned (p. 71) ; this now forms the entrance to the WHICH has sprung out of the original collection left to the University by Dr. Woodward in 1727, and has since been very considerably added to by numerous benefactors ; it now forms a most noble collection of British and foreign fossils arranged according to their strata. It occupies, as already stated, the room under the ne,w University Library, where a fine series of fossils is arranged in table cases and upright cabinets ; there is an excellent collection of fossil fishes, many fine cavern bones, fossil reptiles, bones, teeth, tusks and fragments of mammals' skeletons; also a fine series of recent corals ; and, in particular, a magnificent and nearly perfect specimen of the Plesiosaurus, pur- chased by subscription for 220. In the basement floor of the same room are several skeletons of fossil * Both the Geological and Mineralogical Collections arc accessible to the public between the hours of eleven and four. MINERAIOGICAL MUSEUM. 119 reptiles, casts from the megatherium, dinotherium, and other extinct mammals, and a magnificent skeleton of the great fossil stag of Ireland. Very recently an excellent collection of chalk fossils has been purchased out of a fund raised by subscription ; and a great and instructive series of Saurians of the Lias has been presented by T. Hawkins, Esq. Altogether this forms one of the finest palseontological collections in the kingdom, admirably arranged and in excellent condition, and for this the University is for the most part indebted to the energy and liberality of her present distinguished professor of Geology, who has shed so much lustre upon that office during the long period of forty-three years. In a room contiguous to this is deposited the gtijwatopeal JJtaswm, WHICH is well arranged and generally placed under glass, it is an extensive and complete collection of fine and rare minerals, commenced by the purchase on the part of the University, for 1,500, of the collection formed by Dr. E. D. Clarke; a great many valuable additions have since been made to it, particularly in 1841, when Viscount Alford presented the rich and valuable collection of the late Sir A. Hume, bart., including a fine series of diamonds; and in 1857, Chas. Brooke, Esq., E.E.S., added the fine collection, in many respects unrivalled, of his late father. Recrossing the old court of Bang's, and leaving by the way we entered, we come on the opposite side of the road to the iron gates forming the entrance to 120 HAIO)-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. THE SOUTH FRONT, FROM THE GROUNDS OP KING'S. Cto THIS in point of antiquity the second existing col- legiate foundation in Cambridge was founded in 1326, by Dr. Richard Badew, Chancellor of the University, who purchased two tenements in Milne Street, on the site of which he built a house of learning, called Uni- versity Hall. This edifice was some few years after destroyed by fire : Dr. Badew then solicited the patronage of Elizabeth, third sister and co-heiress of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester and Hertford ; and she obtained a charter from King Edward III. in 1338, for con- verting University Hall into a College. By her bounty this College was built, and in 1347 endowed with lands for. the maintenance of a Master, ten Fellows, and the same number of Scholars ; and from thence it obtained the name of Clare Hall, by which it was known for more than five centuries ; its endowments have since been increased by numerous benefactors. In the reign of Edward VI. it was proposed to unite this * The Porter's Lodge is under the first Portico on the left. CLARE COLLEGE. 121 College to Trinity Hall, a scheme which was nearly effected, and was only abandoned through the strenuous opposition of Bishop Ridley. Clare College, as it is now called, is delightfully situated on the eastern banks of the Cam, and consists of one spacious court (exclusive of the Chapel), which is entered on the east and west sides, by two highly ornate porticoes, or rather lofty arched passages. The former College stood more to the south, and almost abutted upon King's College Chapel; it aras partially removed in 1638 when the present court was com- menced, its progress was very slow being interrupted a long time by the great civil war; in 1686 the old buildings were entirely removed, but it was not till 1715 that the quadrangle as it now appears was com- pletely finished. This court is one hundred and fifty feet long, and one hundred and eleven broad ; on the north side are the Library, Hall, and Combination-room ; on the west, north of the portico, the Master's Lodge; and in the rest of the area are the apartments of the Fellows and Students : it is handsomely built throughout with stone, and presents the most uniform finished appearance of any College in the University, the design is one of great merit and elegance, and the Visitor will not have forgotten its palatial appearance when viewed from the grounds of King's College, (see p. 95); but the finest elevation is the river front which is built with Ketton stone, and presents two ranges of pilasters, the lower one of the Tuscan, the upper of the Ionic order ; the upper and lower tiers of windows are adorned with architraves, the middle tier with pedi- ments, and the whole is finished with an entablature 122 HAXD-BOOK FOB, VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. THE RIVEtt FRONT, FROM THE AVENUE. and balustrade, broken about the centre by a circular pediment, ornamented with urns. The Chapel which extends on the right-hand side of the entrance court, is entered at the north-east corner of the quadrangle by an octagonal ante-chapel lighted by a dome, it was begun in 1763, from a design of Sir James Burrough, and finished in 1769, at the expense of above 7,000. The exterior is ornamented with Corinthian pilasters, rising from a rustic base/ and supporting a handsome cornice, crowned with a balustrade ; the interior is adorned with a coved ceiling of stucco-work, seats and wainscoting of Norway oak, and a floor of black and white marble. Over the altar is a fine painting of the Salutation, by Cipriani. The Communion-plate belonging to this College, is of pure gold richly embossed. The Hall is a fine room, sixty-nine feet long, twenty- one broad, and about twenty-five high; and has a gallery at the west end, leading to CLARE COLLEGE. 123 The Combination-room, which is about thirty-three feet square, and fifteen high, and is one of the best in the University, it contains portraits of Lady Elizabeth Clare, the Foundress, a copy by Freeman; Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter, by Mirevelt ; Archbishop Tillotson ; a whole-length of the Duke of Newcastle, Chancellor of the University, by Shackleton ; and others. The Library opens into the Combination-room at one end, and the Master's Lodge at the other ; it is nearly of the same dimensions as the former, and is handsomely fitted up and ornamented with carvings of Norway oak : among the books is a good collection of the best Italian and Spanish authors, presented "by G-eorge Buggies, a fellow of the Society, and author of the celebrated Latin comedy of "Ignoramus." Here also is a copy of Pope Sixtus the Fifth's folio Bible, a very rare book owing to its having been rigorously suppressed. The Master's Lodge, which fronts the west, has a pleasant and tasteful garden sloping to the river, on the opposite of which is the Fellows' garden. The western gateway leads us to the picturesque stone bridge of three arches, built in the same style as the College, from either side of which we get lovely glimpses of collegiate scenery, to which each season lends its own peculiar charm ; Spring with its delicate and varied tints ; Summer with its rich matured foliage ; Autumn here especially gorgeous and solemn ; Winter rearing its slender fretwork of branches against the cold gray sky, and revealing turret and pinnacle before unseen ; each in its course sheds over the view before us a constantly varied, but ever lovely and impressive aspect: a graceful Oxford poet thus describes his im- pression of this scene : 124 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. CLAKE COLLEGE AKD BRIDGE. Ah me ! were ever river banks so fair, Gardens so fit for nightingales as these ? Were ever haunts so meet for summer breeze, Or pensive walk in evening's golden airr "Was ever town so rich in court and tower To woo and win stray moonlight every hour?* But even love for our favourite spot must not tempt us to linger here too long ; the bridge leads us through a noble avenue of limes, at the end of which a hand- some iron gateway opens upon a pleasant lawn, known as Clare Hall piece, bounded by lofty and venerable elms, a very favourite summer promenade to which we have conducted the steps of our Visitor, in order that he may admire the noble prospect it affords of the " Cambridge," by F. W. Faber of University College, Oxford. CLARE COLLEGE. 125 VIEW FROM CLARE HALL PlhCE. stately west front of King's College Chapel, and the buildings adjoining. In the charge of the Master, of Clare College is a very curious and handsome cup, presented by Dr. Butler in 1618, and called the Poison cup; the lid is finished with a stone to which such mysterious charms were assigned, that it was believed that it would immediately split if the draught in the cup were poisoned. Eminent Men : Hugh. Latimer, Bishop of Worcester, fellow, martyred, 1555. The pious Nicholas Ferrar, 1637. Ralph Cudworth, D.D., Master, 1688. John Tillotson, Archbishop of Canterbury, 1594. James Hervey, author of Meditations, 1758. John Parkhurst, the Lexicographer, 1797. There is no authority for making Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, a member of this College. The Society consists of ten senior, nine junior, and three bye Fellows ; there are upwards of fifty scholar- ships and exhibitions of very unequal value ; members on the boards about two hundred and thirty, of undergraduates about fifty. We now retrace our steps through Clare College and return to 126 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. && GATE OP HUMILITY. anl) Cains WHICH we enter by the Gate of Honour, previously pointed out. The first founder was Edmund de Gkmville, rector of Terrington, in Norfolk, who in 1348, having procured letters patent for the purpose, proceeded to erect his College on a piece of ground near S. Botolph's The Porter's Lodge is to the left of the Gate of Humility, entering from Trinity Street. GONVILLE AND CAIUS COLLEGE. 127 Church, now part of Corpus Christi College. He did not live to carry his design into full execution; but on his death left a sum of money for its comple- tion, at the disposal of William Bateman, Bishop of Norwich, wko being engaged with his own foundation of Trinity Hall, in 1353 removed the site of Gonville's, and having fixed it near his own, fully carried out the founder's intentions, confirmed the original endowment which had been made for the support of a Master, four Fellows, and .two Scholars, himself added considerably to its revenues, and gave it the name of Gonville Hall, Between this period and the year 1557, the revenues of Gonville Hall were augmented and the number of fellowships increased by various benefactors ; and in that year John Caius,* M.D., Physician to Queen Mary, procured a new charter of incorporation, by which its name was changed to Gonyille and Caius College, though for brevity's sake it is commonly called Caius College only. He likewise endowed it with several manors ; increased the number of Fellows ; very much enlarged the site, and framed an elaborate code of statutes for the government of the Society. * This erudite scholar was horn at Norwich, in the year 1510, and became student at Gonville Hall in 1529, whence, in 1539, he went to Italy, and studied physic in the University of Padua, under the famous Baptista Mantua- nus, of Verona. Here he delivered Greek Lectures, and wrote and translated many esteemed medical treatises. Returning to England in 1544, he greatly exerted himself to allay the ravages of the sweating sickness, and afterwards published the history of that dreadful disorder, both in English and in Latin. He then applied himself to the erection of his College, and laboured with much anxiety to effect its complete establishment. He was successively physician to Edward VI., and to Queens Mary and Elizabeth ; nine times president of the college of Physicians, and Master of his College from 1559 till within a few weeks of his death, in July, 1573. In addition to his great reputation as a Physician, he was also eminent as a Classic, an antiquary, and a naturalist, and was the author of numerous works, amongst which are two in Latin, on the History and Antiquities of the University of Cambridge. 128 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Caius College is situated north of the Senate-House, and consists of three Courts, two of which are entered by the three remarkable gateways erected by Dr. Caius. DOOR-WAY OP GATE OF VIKTUE. GONVILLE AOT) CAIU8 COLLEGE. 129 The First Court next to Trinity Street, called the Tree Court, was erected about 1618, and is of no archi- tectural interest; the gateway by which it is entered from the street, was built by Dr. Caius in 1565, it is in a very simple style, and has this inscription : " HUMILITATIS." The Gate of Humility. The gateway into the Second Court is far more striking and dignified, and is a curious and interesting example GATE OP VIRTUE. of Italianized Gothic ; a lofty and not inelegant turret rises on the south side; this was built in 1567, and K 130 IIAND-BOOK FOE VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. is said to have been designed by John of Padua ; it ha s two inscriptions ; on the eastern side is written : " VIKTUTIS." The Gate of Virtue ; and on the other side " Jo. Caius posuit Sapientice." JOHN CAITJS built this in honour of Wisdom. The third gateway, leading to the Schools and Senate- House, is much more ornamented, and exhibits specimens of the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders, sur- mounted by a massive cupola. This is inscribed : " HONOBIS." The Gate of Honour ; it was built in 1574, from a design dictated by Dr. Caius, before his death, to the architect. It is re- markable as being the earliest example in stone, of classical architecture in England; Dr. Caius having studied medicine in Italy, brought home with him Italian tastes. The plan of these three gateways is of course intended to inculcate the moral lesson that "Humility and Virtue lead to Honour." This second court was the one erected by the founder, and is known as Caius Court ; he left directions in the statutes of the College that the south side should never be closed up by buildings, in order that there may be a free circula- GATE OF HONOUK AND SKNATE-HOUSB. GONVILLE AND CAITJS COLLEGE. 131 tion of air ; from this we pass into the Third Court, which was the original Gonvillo Hall, and is still called Gonville Court; it is another instance of the fashion so prevalent in the 18th century, of refacing the older courts with stone, inserting sash windows, and destroy- ing all the interesting original features ; between these two courts is the Chapel, erected towards the close of the 14th century, but it has undergone so many changes that no traces of its Gothic origin can be detected; it has a good coved roof of the 1 7th century, and a heavy Ionic altar-screen of a later date: the altar-piece is a painting of the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin, by Ritz, after Carlo Maratti. On the north wall is the monument of Dr. Caius, it is a large alabaster sarcophagus, under a canopy supported by Corinthian columns. This monument was removed from the east end when the chapel was enlarged in 1637, at which time the body was discovered whole and perfect, the beard very long, and the countenance strongly re- sembling the portraits of him in the College. On the monument is the following epitaph : "VIVIT POST FUNEKA VIRTUS. Fui CAIUS. -Stalls suse LXIII. Obiit xxix. Julie. Anno D . 1573." "Virtue our death survives. I was Caius." In this chapel are also large monuments (containing kneeling figures in their robes) to Dr. Legge, Master, and Dr. Perse the founder of the Grammar School: and on the floor of the ante-chapel is a good modern brass to the memory of Dr. Davy, Master, 1839. The Hall is a fine and handsome room, erected in K2 132 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. 1 854, by Mr. Salvin ; it has a good hammer-beam roof, but unfortunately the style chosen throughout is- Jacobean. The ceiling and the windows are enriched with the armorial bearings of the masters, benefactors, and distinguished members of the College, and the walls adorned with portraits of the more eminent, including Dr. Caius, the illustrious Dr. Harvey, Bishop Jeremy Taylor, Bishop Cosin, Mr. Kirby the celebrated Ento- mologist, the late Baron Alderson, and others. The Combination-room is commodious and handsome ; it has three very fine portraits by Hollein, an original of Dr. Caius on panel, and one of Dr. Samuel Parr. The Library contains a very fine collection of fifteen thousand printed books, and seven hundred MSS., in- cluding numerous and valuable Heraldic Visitations ; they are conveniently and carefully arranged, and ex- cellent catalogues have been published of the MSS. The Master's Lodge is a modern and spacious private house built of white brick, with a good garden in front; it contains portraits of several of the Masters, among which may be noticed a very fine one by Remlrandt of Dr. Harvey, Dr. John Smith by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Dr. Belward, and Dr. Davy by Opie. Dr. Caius gave to this College a beautiful Caduceus, or silver mace, ornamented with four twining serpents ; it is two feet and a half in length, and by his direction is borne before the master at the principal College festivities. This has always been the great medical College of Cambridge, and has produced a long roll of eminent physicians, amongst whom we need only mention the celebrated William Harvey, discoverer of the circulation of the blood, 1657. It has also produced several dis- S. MICHAEI/8 CHURCH. 133 tinguished antiquaries, such as Henry Wharton, author of Anglia Sacra, 1695; Sir Henry Chauncey, the Historian of Herts, 1719; Francis Blomefield, the Norfolk Antiquary, 1752. Other eminent members are Sir Thomas Gresham, Founder of the Eoyal Exchange, 1579; Bishop Jeremy Taylor, 1667; Jeremy Collier, the learned nonjuror, 1726; and Lord Chancellor Thurlow, 1806. This Society consists of thirty Fellows, of whom the twelve seniors with the master, form the governing body. There are forty-five scholarships, and eighteen exhibitions, also four Tancred Medical Studentships of 100 per annum each, tenable for eight years. In point of numbers it ranks third in the University, there being about five hundred and twenty members on the boards, and one hundred and thirty students. Leaving the College by the Grate of Humility, immediately opposite to us is the entrance to A VERY interesting building, founded by Hervey de Stanton, in 1324, to serve as a chapel for his College of Michael-House as well as a parish Church; it still retains its original features as a Church of the Decorated style without any admixture. The chancel is very spacious and occupies the largest portion of the Church ; it is surrounded by old carved stalls said to have been 134 HAND-BOOK FOE VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. removed from Trinity College Chapel; on the south side of the chancel are three richly carved sedilia, and at the east end of the south aisle, now occupied by the organ, is a small chapel containing two beautiful niches. The east and west windows are both very good, the tracery of the latter is of a character almost unique in this country. The roof of this Church was consumed by fire in 1849, but was restored exactly like the original by G. GK Scott, Esq. ; at the same time the white-wash and paint were scraped away, the high pews superseded by the present low seats, and the Church put into such a state as makes it by far the most seemly and creditable in the town. Continuing our course along Trinity Street we soon come to a fine open space bounded by the venerable buildings and stately gateway of S. John's College ; on the right is the Church of All Saints' with the tower arched over the pavement ; the rest of the group consists of the new Master's court, the projecting east end of the Chapel, the restored street front, and, half hidden among the foliage, the magnificent entrance gateway of IT is no exaggeration to call this the noblest col- legiate foundation in the kingdom ; whether we regard the number of its members, the extent of its buildings, The Porter's Lodge is on the right-hand side of the entrance gateway. TRINITY COLLEGE. 135 or the long roll of illustrious men who have been educated within its walls, in all these respects, Christ Church, the largest Col- lege in Oxford, falls con- siderably short of it. It was established chiefly out of the union and enlarge- ment of two older founda- tions, Michael-House and King's Hall; it absorbed Physwick's hostel, the most important institution of that kind in Cambridge, and it also includes the sites of six other minor THB ENTRANCE GATEWAY. Michael-House, the first of these foundations in point of time, but inferior in importance to King's Hall, was founded in 1324 by Hervey de Stanton, of Stanton in Suffolk, who was successively a Baron and Chancellor of the Exchequer, Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, and Chief Justice of the King's Bench; he died in 1327 and was buried in the choir of S. Michael's Church, which, as has already been stated, he also founded or rebuilt. King's Hall was endowed for a Master and thirty- two Fellows by Edward III. in 1337, and at once became the principal College in the University, its members are stated to have been "always respected for their gravity and learning" ; and the two gateways which remain, though much altered and enlarged, bear witness to its architectural pre-eminence. When Eichard II. held his Parliament at Cambridge in 136 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE, 1388, King's Hall was prepared for his reception, though eventually he took up his abode at Barnwell Priory. These two institutions continued quite separate until October, 1546, when the revenues and buildings of both were surrendered to King Henry VIII., as a preparatory step to the foundation of one magnificent College which he had for some time contemplated; having at the same period obtained possession of all the adjacent sites, he by letters patent dated Dec. 19th, 1546, founded and established "a College of literature, the sciences, philosophy, good arts, and sacred theology, for all time to endure," and dedicated it in honour of the Holy and Undivided Trinity. This he endowed with very considerable possessions which had belonged chiefly to dissolved monasteries, but his death a few weeks afterwards stopped whatever farther he may have contemplated in the way of architectural additions, His son and successor Edward VI. issued the statutes to the College, and his daughter Queen Mary consider- ably augmented the endowments, took great interest in the foundation, and used strenuous exertions towards the erection of a Chapel and Library. Having thus glanced at the history of this "royal and religious foundation," our attention is arrested before entering the College by the noble gateway tower, one of the finest erections of its kind, called the King's gateway; this was one of the entrances, and the last addition to King's Hall, and was built in the reign of Edward IV., but the upper story was added and the towers raised in the reign of James I. the original design being carefully followed ; there are two doorways, the space above the smaller being filled TRINITY COLLEGE. 137 up with a canopy and elaborate tracery; over these in the centre are the arms of Edward III., and on either side under rich canopies those of his sons, a blank shield representing William of Hatfield who died in his infancy ; in a large niche between the windows is a statue of Henry VIII. The roof be- neath this gateway is modern and is a handsome and. ingenious example of wooden vault- ing, supported on the stone springers of the old groining; it is orna- mented with shields bearing the arms of all the Masters of the College ; on the inner side are statues of King James I., his Queen, and son, afterwards Charles I. It had formerly an observatory on the summit, erected for the use of the Professor of Astronomy, but this was removed in 1797. STATUE OP HENRY VIII. 138 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. PLAX 0V THE COLLHGE, WESTWARD OP TRINITY STREET. 1. The Great court. 2. Neville's court. 3. New court. 4. Entrance to Bowling- green. 5. Chapel. 6. Hall. 7. Library. 8. King's gateway. 9. King Edward'* tower. 10. Queen's tower. 11. Master's Lodge. 12. Bishop's Hostel. 13. Stables. 14. Houses between Col- lege and Street. 15. Garden. 16. Bowling-green. 17. Lane between Trinity & S. John's Colleges. 18. S. John's old bridge. 19. Trinity bridge. 20. Garret Hostel bridge. 21. Garret Hostel lane. 22. Caius College. 33. Green Street. 24. Trinity Street. 25. Brewhouse. 26. Back entrance to Caius College. This College consists of four courts and a small detached building called the Bishop's Hostel; these courts are known as the Old or Great Court, Neville's or the Cloister Court, King's or the New Court, and the Master's Court on the opposite side of the street to the east of the entrance gateway. TRINITY COLLEGE. 139 The Old Court which is the largest, measures on the north two hundred and sixty feet, on the south two hundred and ninety feet, on the east three hundred and twenty, and on the west three hundred and fifty feet; it is said to be the most spacious quadrangle in the world, having the four sides con- nected by build- ings; on the north side stands the Chapel, and to the west of this a lofty gateway tower with a clock in front, under which is a statue of Edward III., with the in- scription Pugna pro patria. This was also one of the entrances to King's Hall, and was origi- nally built in 1427 near where the fountain now stands, but was removed to its present position by Dr. Neville, when it was raised a story, and much patched in other respects ; on the west are the Master's Lodge, the Hall and Combination-rooms; on the south is a third gateway with four lofty towers at the corners, adorned with a statue of Queen Elizabeth in her robes, hence called the Queen's gateway ; this was also [TEFVTIVS GJWAHDVS TAMA SVPER/CTHERA aOTVs] BTATUK OF KDWARD III. 140 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. erected during the Mastership of Dr. Neville, and may have been partly built out of the entrance gate- way to Michael-House which stood very near this site ; the remainder of the quadrangle is occupied by the apartments of the Fellows and Students. It is impossible not to be struck with the architectural effect of this noble court, certainly one of the most impressive sights of Cambridge, for here the buildings are not, as in some of the Col- leges, all included under one uniform faQade, but each by its style and elevation sets forth its special use and design; the three gate- houses stately and massive ; the unpretending ranges of dwelling rooms ; the Chapel conspicuous by its lofty windows and pinnacled buttresses ; the Master's Lodge with its hospitable porch and elegant oriel ; the Hall breaking the sky-line with its high pitched roof and soaring louvre; each tells its own purpose as obviously as "the tinkling silvery murmur" of the picturesque fountain in the centre. The Chapel erected in the reigns of the sister Queens Mary and Elizabeth, is a spacious edifice in the latest Tudor-Gothic style, and occupies part of the site of the former Chapel of King's Hall. The interior is two hundred and four feet long, thirty-four feet wide, THE ORKAT COVET. TBINITY COLLEGE. 141 and forty-four high, and displays a simplicity of design amounting to baldness. The Ante-chapel is separated from the choir by the organ gallery of Norway oak supported by fluted columns of the Doric order, on which stands a noble and remarkably fine toned organ which ranks among the first in England. At the west end is a very fine piece of statuary erected in 1755, at the expense of Dr. Eobert Smith, Master of the College, and executed by Rouliliac ; this is the figure of Sir Isaac Newton in white marble, admitted to be one of the finest statues in England ; the philosopher is repre- sented standing on a pedestal in a Master of Arts' gown with a prism in his hands ; on the pedestal is this in- scription from Lucretius : " Qui genus humanum ingenio superavit." It is said that this statue when first completed had its mouth closed; some friend who went to the studio to view the work immediately pointed it out to the artist ; Eoubiliac went to bed but could not sleep, rose early, set to work and remedied the defect in the admirable way in which it now appears. Behind this statue is a large tablet to the celebrated mathematician Eoger Cotes, he died in 1716, the inscription is by Dr. Bentley. On the right side of this is a bust of Daniel Lock, M.A., by Houbiliac, and near it a tablet and bust by Batty to the memory of the late Greek Professor, Peter Paul Dobree. Here are also the monu- mental tablets and busts of Person by Chantrey, the Eev. John Wordsworth, M.A., by Weelces, and the Eev. Thomas Jones by NolleJcem ; and two elegant specimens of sculpture, one by Flaxman in memory of Isaac Hawkins Browne; the other by Westmacott to the Hon. Charles James Fox Maitland, youngest son of the Earl of Lauderdale. 142 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. On the northern side of the ante-chapel near the entrance to the choir is a fine statue by Weekes of Lord Bacon, presented by Dr. Whewell, the present Master, in 1845; on one side of the pedestal is an appropriate inscription, and on the other a copy of a letter written to the College by Lord Bacon; corresponding with this on the south side is a statue by Nolle of Dr. Isaac Barrow, Master, recently presented by the Marquess of Lansdowne. During the last twelve years four of the windows of the ante-chapel have been filled with stained glass, a good work which it is to be hoped will be continued ; the second window from the west on the south side, commemorates two deceased Fellows of the College, the upper division representing Christ and woman at the well, the lower part Mary at the Sepulchre. The upper part of the next window represents the calling of James and John, and commemorates the late Dean of Jersey; the lower portion is in honour of that sweet singer of the Temple, George Herbert, and represents him, in conjunction with Martha and Mary, in attend- ance on the Saviour. The fourth window contains figures of eight of the Apostles and commemorates eight deceased Fellows. The third window on the north side is in commemoration of the marriage of Dr. Whewell, July 1st, 1858, it contains in the upper lights the marriage in Cana, the lower portion being filled with a tracery pattern. The Choir, which was fitted up as we now see it, in the reign of Queen Anne, is furnished on each side with stalls for the Fellows and seats below them for the Scholars; on each side of the entrance are the seats of the Master and Vice-Master, handsomely carved TRINITY COLLEGE. 143 and ornamented with fluted Corinthian pilasters. The carved work of the stalls, the coats of arms, and the richly ornamented wood-work which surmounts them are the work of the celebrated Grinling Gibbons, but though exquisite as works of art they do not at all harmonize with the character of the building. Over the altar is a painting of S. Michael binding Satan, by West ; this is placed under a recessed arch of Norway oak supported by Corinthian pillars ; above is a broken pediment richly carved with wreaths and flowers ; this heavy and incongruous structure Completely hides the fine perpendicular east window of nine lights. On each side of the altar, placed in niches, is a curious piece of painting, one representing the figures of our Saviour and S. John the Baptist, and the other the Virgin Mary and S. Elizabeth. The roof is of timber divided by rafters into square compartments, with stars intermixed ; the main beams are handsomely wrought with wreathed foliage; the floor is of black and white marble. Choral service is performed here on the mornings and evenings of Sundays and Saints' days, on the eves of Saints' days and every Saturday evening ; on these occasions in full term time the service is very impressive; the sight of a "band of white robed scholars," upwards of five hundred in number, all kneeling at the same time, is one that the Visitor cannot readily forget. The Jacobean porch on the west side of this court forms the entrance to the Master's Lodge, an extensive building containing several state rooms sumptuously fitted up; this is the royal residence whenever the Sovereign visits Cambridge, and was occupied by Queen Victoria in October, 1843, and July, 1847; the 144 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Judges also take up their abode here when on circuit. The apartments in it were repaired and renovated at a great expense by Dr. Bentley, who also very much modernized the external appearance, and they were again fitted up in a rich style under the direction of Dr. Mansel, Bishop of Bristol, when Master ; the whole front of the building was in 1845 restored to its Gothic character, and the graceful Oriel erected, so that it now harmonizes in its architectural character with the best parts of the College. It contains a very numerous collection of portraits, of which the following may be considered as the most eminent : Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, half-length by Mark Garrard; Queen Elizabeth in a ruff, immense sleeves, and a flowered petticoat, the whole dress richly ornamented with lace; Edward 111., a curious old painting; Sir Walter Raleigh, a small head; Robert Cecil, Earl of Salisbury ; Henry VIII., a large picture by Lucas de Heere, on which Wordsworth has written one of his best sonnets, the figure of the King is between nine and ten feet high and the limbs pro- portionately gigantic, it is highly finished and in good preservation; Edward VI., on board, well executed; Thomas Neville, Dean of Canterbury, half-length; Scaliger, by Paul Veronese, given to the College by Dr. Bentley; Queen Mary I., on board; Sir Isaac Newton, 1710, eet. 69, by Thornhill; Sir Robert Cotton, after Jansen; Drs. Barrow, Bentley, Wordsworth, and other Masters ; Cardinals Wolsey and Pole ; Arch- bishops Bancroft, Laud, Parker, and Whitgift; Lord Bacon, Coke, Galileo, Vandyke, and Porson. Here also in the centre of the hall is a beautiful statue of Edward VI., presented to the Society by Dr. R. Smith, Master. TRINITY COLLEGE. 145 The lofty stone Conduit or Fountain which forms such a striking object in this court was erected by the munifi- cent Master, Dr. Neville, and is a most picturesque and valuable example of the style of that period; it consists of eight round arches, supporting a highly enriched parapet, and is crowned by an open ogee shaped dome, terminated by a lion as a finial. It derives its unfailing supply of excellent water from a reservoir about two miles off, which formerly supplied the Grey Friar's Monastery (now Sidney College) and King's Hall. ^ The Hall, which was built in 1604 after the plan of that of the Middle Temple, has a nobly proportioned oriel on each side at the farther end, and is upwards of one hundred feet long, forty broad, and fifty-six high : it is supported by buttresses and is ascended by a wide flight of steps. At the south end is a richly carved screen, over which is a music gallery, and the Hall throughout is fitted up with wainscoting of rather plain Elizabethan character; the roof is foliated, of open timber work in the same style, and though the details show the decline of art, as a whole the effect is striking and good; from the centre rises a lofty louvre of four stages, beneath which in the winter season a charcoal fire is still burnt. This spacious room is adorned with several full-length portraits of persons who have been connected with the College : in the centre at the north end is an original painting by Talentine Ritz of Sir Isaac Newton, who is pourtrayed in a loose gown with one hand in his bosom and the other on a book lying before him ; among the other portraits the following well deserve attention: Dr. Isaac Barrow; Bishops Pearson and 146 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Wilkins ; Lord Chief Justice Coke ; Lord Bacon ; Dr. Robert Smith, by J. Freeman ; William, Lord Russell ; John Dryden, by J. Hudson; Abraham Cowley, by Stephen Slaughton ; Sir Henry Spelman; John Ray and Dr. Bentley, by Hudson. The windows are em- bellished with the arms in stained glass of numerous noble and distinguished members of the College; and in one of them is an ancient full-length figure of Richard, Duke of York. THE HALL AND COMBINATION ROOM IN THB 17TH CENTURY. The south west portion of the court was occupied by the old Hall, a very picturesque building with a graceful and singular oriel, and a tower at the corner ; it was removed about 1774, and the present Com- bination rooms erected on the site in a style of such incongruous ugliness as to be quite an eyesore. The rooms are however comfortable apartments and hand- somely fitted up, they contain several fine portraits, amongst them are: Charles Seymour, "the proud" TRINITY COLLEGE. 147 Duke of Somerset, Chancellor of the University, a copy by Dance; John, Marquis of Granby, leaning on his horse attended by a black groom, a very fine painting by Sir Joshua Reynolds; Charles Montague, Earl of Halifax, by Kneller ; H.E.H. William Frederick, Duke of Gloucester, who was a student of this College, by Opie; H.E.H. Augustus Frederick, late Duke of Sussex, by Lonsdale; the Marquis Camden, late Chancellor of the University, by Sir T. Lawrence; an original of Sir Isaac Newton, by Vanderlank; Professor Sedgwick, by Boxall; and minatures on ivory of Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort, by Sir William Ross. Opposite the doorways to the Hall is the entrance to the Kitchen, no unimportant part of an institution which for seven months of the year has daily to provide dinner for upwards of five hundred persons ; the passage called the screens, which separates the Kitchen, Buttery, and other offices from the Hall, leads us to the Second or Cloister Court, built principally from the benefaction of Dr. Thomas Neville, Master of the College, and from him called also Neville's Court; the cloisters or piazzas which support this court on three sides give it a very singular and picturesque appearance; its measurement is two hundred and thirty feet by two hundred and twenty south and north, and one hundred and fifty by one hundred and thirty west and east. Since Dr. Neville's time it has been extended westwards and the magnificent Library added ; the north and south sides which contain the Fellows' and Students' apartments were almost wholly rebuilt or refaced by Essex in an uniform style, when picturesque gables were removed and superseded by the present balustrade; the east side is formed by the Hall, in front of which L2 148 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. is a terrace with a balustrade and a flight of steps, backed by a Doric screen supporting a pediment which sadly mars the effect of the building against which it is reared. The whole of the western side of this court is occupied by the noble Library, which was erected from the designs of Sir Christopher Wren at an expense exceeding 20,000, the greater part of which was collected through the strenuous exertions of the celebrated Dr. Isaac Barrow when Master of the College ; it was commenced in 1676, but nearly twenty years elapsed before it was ready to receive the books from the old Library, which stood to the west of the clock tower in the old court. This building is one of the best specimens of classical archi- tecture in the University. The elevation towards the court, which is richly ornamented with festoons, masks, and other classical devices, is divided into two stories by attached columns of the Doric and Ionic orders; the whole being crowned by a handsome stone balus- trade, in the centre of which are emblematical statues of Divinity, Law, Physic, and Mathematics, executed by Gabriel Ciller. In the centre arch of the lower story is a fine bas-relief of Ptolemy receiving the new Greek version of the Scriptures from the seventy interpreters. The elevation towards the walks is much simpler and plainer; the lower story is pierced with unglazed windows and has three doorways, flanked by columns, and surmounted by entablatures of the Doric order. Beneath this noble structure is a spacious piazza, supported by a central row of Doric columns, and opening towards the waits with three gates of wrought-iron. The entrance to the Library is at the north end of TRINITY COLLEGE. 149 PIAZZA TJMDER LIBRARY this piazza, by a spacious staircase, having an enriched domed roof, ornamented with the arms of the four Masters who presided over the College while this build- ing was in progress; at the foot of this staircase are fine busts of Alfred Tennyson and Professor Sedgwick, by Woolner. A flight of black marble steps conducts to the interior. In the vestibule is an in- teresting collection of ancient marbles and inscriptions : on a tablet affixed to the wall is a Latin inscription which tells us that "these Roman monuments, collected from every quarter of the northern part of England by the eminent antiquary, Sir Robert Cotton, and deposited at his seat of Conington in Huntingdonshire, were removed hither in the year 1750, at the expense of Sir John Cotton, of Stratton, Bart." The famous Sigean inscription, bequeathed to the Society by Edward 150 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Wortley Montague, is preserved with these antiquities, together with a bust of that eccentric character, executed by Scheemakers, at the expense of his daughter Mary, Countess of Bute. Here is likewise a Roman mile- stone, given by Richard Gough, Esq. in 1799, bearing the name of the Emperor Marcus Annius Florianus, who succeeded his brother Tacitus, A.D. 276, and reigned only two or three months, being murdered by his own soldiers ; from the short period of this Emperor's reign, it is probable that this mile-stone is the only memorial of him in England. The Library is entered through folding-doors at the north end; from whence the beauty and elegant pro- portions of the interior cannot fail to impress them- selves upon the Visitor : the length is one hundred and ninety-four feet, the breadth forty-two, and the height thirty-eight. At the farther end of this stately room, is a painted glass window of rather glaring colours, for the execution of which 500 was bequeathed by Dr. Robert Smith, formerly Master; it was painted by Peckitt, of York, from a design of Cipriani. Owing to its unpleasing effect upon the statue of Lord Byron it is now covered by a curtain. The subject represents Fame presenting Sir Isaac Newton to George III., who is seated under a canopy, with a laurel chaplet in his hand, and attended by the British Minerva, who is apparently advising the King to reward merit in the person of the Great Philosopher. Below the throne is Lord Bacon, in his Chancellor's robes, with a pen and book, as if preparing to register the reward about to be bestowed on Sir Isaac. The original drawing, which cost one hundred guineas, is preserved in the Library; it is difficult to assign reasons for TRINITY COLLEGE. 151 the chronological incongruity of thus representing Bacon and Newton in the presence of George III. The statue in the niche on the right of this window is by Rysbrack and represents Charles, Duke of Somerset. This spacious room is floored with black and white marble, alternately disposed in diagonal slabs, and the walls are adorned with Corinthian pilasters and a rich cornice. Hanged on each side of the room on hand- some pedestals, are the following busts, those by Roubiliac are some of the fingst works of that sculptor : Right side. Left side John Ray. Roubiliac. Francis Willoughby. Roubiliac. Archdeacon Hare. Woolner. Dr. Anthony Shepherd. Bacon. Dr. Robert Smith. Scheemakers. Sir Win. Bolland. Sievier. Lord Trevor. Roubiliac. Lord Whitworth. Roubiliac. Sir Edward Coke. Roubiliac. Sir Robert Cotton. Roubiliac. Roger Cotes. Scheemakers. Dr. James Jurin. Scheemakers. Dr. Isaac Barrow. Roubiliac. Dr. Richard Bentley. Roubiliac. Sir Isaac Newton. Roubiliac. Lord Bacon. Roubiliac. The Library is divided into thirty spacious classes disposed in cases of Norway oak, adorned with the armorial bearings of the donors, and most exquisite carvings in lime wood by the celebrated Gibbons. On the top of each case are the following busts : Right side. Left side. Newton. Nollekens. Shakspeare. Homer. Spenser. Democritus. Ben Jonson. Demosthenes. Francis Beaumont. Socrates. John Fletcher. Julius Caesar. Inigo Jones. Marcus Aurelius. Dr. Thomas Sydenham. Horace. 152 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Milton. Cicero. John Dryden. Brutus. John Locke. Seneca. Archbishop Tillotson. Virgil. Joseph Addison. Anacreon. Alexander Pope. Plato. Porson. Shakspeare. Coleridge. Dr. Hooper. A striking object at the south end of the room is the beautiful and celebrated statue of Lord Byron by Thorwaldsen. The poet is represented in a sitting posture, his feet resting upon a broken column, in his left hand is a book inscribed "Childe Harold," his right holds a pencil to his lips with an air of deep meditation which is very ably rendered. This statue after being refused admission into Westminster Abbey, and lying some years in its packing case in the Custom- House vaults, at last found this appropriate resting place within the walls of the noble poet's College. Among the portraits in the Library, whose merit entitles them to notice, are whole-lengths of Dr. Isaac Barrow; Dr. Neville; Sir Henry Puckering; Monk, Duke of Albemarle, in his robes as Knight of the Garter ; Charles Montague, Earl of Halifax, by Kneller ; and Dr. Hacket, Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, by Ritz ; half- lengths of Sir Robert Cotton ; Abraham Cowley ; Thomas Gale, Dean of York; and Roger Gale, the Antiquary; also a very fine head- size copy of Shakspeare, by Mark Garrard. This noble Library contains about fifty thousand volumes, and nearly two thousand MSS., many of which are of considerable value and interest, such as several in Anglo-Saxon, the Arabic collection of Dr. Gale, Sir Isaac Newton's correspondence with Cotes, most of Dr. Barrow's original MSS., and others TRINITY COLLEGE. 153 of various descriptions ; also a thin folio, with a variety of pieces in the hand-writing of Milton, con- sisting of the original of the Masque of Comus ; and three different plans for Paradise Lost, sketched out at the period when he intended to have made that subject the ground- work of a tragedy; the poems of Lycidas and Arcades, and several smaller pieces, all written with the poet's own hand. A number of interesting relics and valuable curiosities are also preserved here, of which* the following are the principal : a curious antique statue of JEsculapius, found at Samoe, about fourteen miles from Kome; the globe, universal ring dial, quadrant, and compass, which formerly belonged to Sir Isaac Newton, and three locks of his hair, also the cast from his face taken after death by Rouliliac, which he used for the statue in the Chapel ; a quiver of arrows employed by Richard III. against Henry VII. at the battle of Bosworth Field; a beautiful miniature skeleton of a man cut by a shepherd's boy ; an Egyptian mummy, in very fine preservation, the outside being elaborately gilt and painted ; the dried body of one of the aboriginal inhabitants of Teneriffe ; several curiosities, "brought from the South Sea Islands, by Captain Cook, and presented to the College by the late Earl of Sand- wich; a highly interesting and curious Babylonian Brick, presented by General Sir John Malcolm, mounted on a marble pedestal, and inclosed in a revolving glass case, and three others of a different shape. The Library is open every day except Sundays and Saints' days from ten to three between Lady-Day and Michaelmas, and from eleven to three for the remainder of the year. 154 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. THE NKW OK KINO'S COURT. We now proceed to the south range of cloisters where an open arcade leads us to the New or King's Court, so called in honour of King George IV. who contributed the sum of 1,000 towards its erection. This quad- rangle was begun in 1823, the foundation stone being laid on the 12th of August by Sir Charles Manners Sutton, LL.D., Speaker of the House of Commons, as representative of His Majesty; the architect was William Wilkins, B.A., and, as might be expected, the architecture, though the best to be had at the time, can hardly now be thought satisfactory; the front which faces the College walks on a line with the Library is of stone, but the rest is unfortunately for the most part stucco. This court measures one hundred and sixty-two feet in length, one hundred and fifty in breadth, and contains one hundred and twelve sets of rooms, many of which overlook the Cam and the delightful grounds beyond it ; the erection of the whole cost upwards of 50,000, and was com- pleted in three years; a great portion of the rents derived from the rooms in this court is appropriated to the augmentation of the small livings in the gift of the College. The tower gateway on the eastern side leads us to a plain and sombre building called TRINITY COLLEGE. 155 the Bishop's Hostel, from having been erected by Dr. Hacket, Bishop of Lichfi eld, temp. Char- les II.; the rents of the BISHOP'S HOSTEL. rooms are appropriated to the purchase of books for the Library. The western or S. Michael's gateway which THE 'WBSTEEK GATEWAY. contains the pleasantest sets of rooms in the University, conducts us into the beautiful and justly admired 156 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. THE AVENUE. grounds of the College, which are about one-third of a mile in circumference ; a noble and lofty avenue of limes divides them into two portions surrounded by walks which are pleasantly shaded with chestnut and lime trees. The beautiful vista formed by this avenue is terminated in the distance by the spire of '| Coton Church, this prospect was wittily commented upon by Porson as emblematical of the career of a College Fellow, a long dreary road with a Church in the distance the iron gateway which forms the boundary of this walk is a relic of the magnificent mansion o f Horseheath, the seat of the Lords Montfort; at the demolition of that noble residence in 1777, it was purchased by a Fellow-Com- moner of Trinity ^s and by him pre- sented to his Col- THB IRON GATEWAY. TRINITY COLLEGE. 157 Parallel with the front of the Library and King's Court flows the Cam, over which is an elegant cycloidal bridge of three arches designed and executed THE BRIDGE. in 1766 by Essex. To the south of this is Garret Hostel bridge, a modern structure of iron; to the north is another of the most lovely views in our University, and such as only Cambridge can shew; the elegant new buildings and terraced grounds of S. John's College in front; the lofty row of venerable chestnut trees on the left ; the stately College Library on the right; all these reflected in the waters of the Cam languidly flowing beneath, group into one of those charming bits of scenery upon which the mind's eye loves to dwell when far away from the spot. 158 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. The river here makes a sharp bend where it separates the walks of Trinity and S. John's, between which Colleges a keen spirit of academical rivalry has always existed, but at the installation of the Prince Consort as Chancellor, in July 1847, the two Societies combined in giving a magnificent fete in their grounds which was honoured by the presence of Her Majesty ; upon this occasion the rival Colleges were for once united by a picturesque wooden bridge thrown across just beyond the angle of the river. To give anything at all approaching to a complete list of the eminent men who have belonged to this noble Society would far surpass our limits, scarcely a generation has passed since its foundation to which it has not contributed names illustrious in the annals of their country as Statesmen, Divines, Philosophers, Scholars, and Poets; we give but a meagre selection from this bright roll of eminent names: Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, the great favourite of Queen Elizabeth, beheaded 1601. John Overall, Bishop of Norwich, 1619. The illustrious BACON, Baron Verulam, 1626. Dr. John Donne, the Poet; Dean of S. Paul's, 1631. Sir Robert Bruce Cotton, the celebrated Antiquary, 1631. George Herbert, Author of "The Temple," &c., 1C33. Sir Henry Spelman, the Antiquary, 1641. Thomas Comber, D.D., Master, Dean of Carlisle, 1654. John Hacket, Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, 1670. Abraham Cowley, the Poet, 1667. Francis Willoughby, the celebrated Naturalist, 1672. Dr. Isaac Barrow, the learned Divine ; Master, 1677. Andrew Marvell, the Poet and Statesman, 1678. John Dryden, the Poet, 1701. John Ray, the distinguished Naturalist, 1705. Robert Nelson, Author of "The Festivals and Fasts," 1715. TRINITY COLLEGE. 159 Roger Cotes, Mathematician, and friend of Newton, 1716. Sir Isaac Newton, born Dec. 25, 1642, died March 20, 1727. Dr. Conyers Middleton, Author of the "Life of Cicero," 1750. Spencer Perceval, Prime Minister, assassinated 1812. Richard Watson, Bishop of Llandaff, 1816. Richard Person, the Critic and Greek Professor, 1808. Thomas, Lord Erskine, Lord High Chancellor, 1823. George Gordon, Lord Byron, the celebrated Poet, 1824. George Crabbe, the Poet, 1832. Viscount Melbourne, Prime Minister, 1848. Thomas Babington Macaulay, Lord MacaulSy, 1859. That this College still retains its high position is proved by the number of eminent men now living who are proud to call themselves her sons; we may be pardoned for specially selecting two of these LORD LYNDHTTRST, the veteran lawyer, orator, and statesman who at the age of ninety still retains his wondrous faculties unimpared; and England's greatest poet, ALFRED TENITYSON, Fairer seems the ancient College, and the sunshine seems more fair, That he once has trod its pavement, that he once has breathed its air. And here while walking through the College we ought not to forget two distinguished members now residing within its walls, one the greatest philosopher of the age, the other its most eminent geologist ; for assuredly future historians will record as one of the brightest pages in the annals of " Old Trinity," the period when its Master was a WHEWELL and its Vice-Master a SEDGWICK. And now retracing our steps through the great quadrangle, opposite the entrance gateway we come 160 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. to the Master's Court, the most recent addition to our collegiate buildings in Cambridge and by far the best, i THE MASTER'S COURT. we are afraid we must say the only good example of modern Gothic architecture we have to shew ; this was built entirely at the expense of the present distinguished Master, whose initials, W. W., are carved on the drip- stone terminations of the doorway ; the front facing the street is very effectively broken by the angle turret and the handsome entrance tower over the oriel window ; in the latter is a niche containing the arms of Dr. ALL SAINTS' CHUBCH. 161 Whewell. This court was erected in 1859-60 from designs by Mr. Salvin. This College maintains sixty Fellows, seventy-two foundation Scholars, and sixteen Sizars, there are also six minor Scholarships and several exhibitions; the number of Undergraduates is usually between five and six hundred, and of members on the boards nearly three thousand; its princely revenues amount to up- wards of 35,000 per annum. Separated from the Master's Court by a narrow passage is $11 Saints' &%axt\, A LATE perpendicular edifice, entirely destitute of architectural interest, the open wooden roof is the only good feature of the building ; the singular arrangement of the tower projecting over the pavement on three arches is modern, the arches having been opened about fifty years ago. The chief interest attaching to this Church is that it contains the grave and monument of Henry Kirke White, the latter erected at the cost of an American gentleman, Mr. Boott, under the following interesting circumstances : The well-known life of Henry Kirke White, by Southey, being as popular in America as in this country, excited in Mr. Boott a desire to visit the place of the poet's interment ; and on arriving at Cambridge, surprised to find that no mark of respect had been shewn to his memory, he obtained permission to erect, at his own expense 162 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. a monument in the Church, "as a tribute to departed genius." This was executed by Chantrey ; it is placed at the west end of the Church, is of white marble, and exhibits, within a medallion, the portrait of the poet, in bas-relief. Below are the following lines, from the pen of Professor Smyth : Warm with fond hope, and learning's sacred flame, To Granta's bowers the youthful Poet came ; Unconquer'd pow'rs th' immortal mind displayed, But, worn with anxious thought, the frame decayed : Pale o'er his lamp, and in his cell retired, The martyr-student faded and expired. O genius, taste, and piety sincere, Too early lost 'midst duties too severe ! Foremost to mourn was generous Southey seen ; He told the tale, and shewed what White had been Nor told in vain ; far o'er th' Atlantic wave A wanderer came, and sought the Poet's grave; On yon low stone he saw his lonely name, And raised this fond memorial to his fame. The poet lies interred in the Chancel under the " yon low stone" referred to in the epitaph. There is every probability that this Church will shortly be rebuilt upon a more convenient site opposite Jesus College, according to a design furnished by Mr. Bodley, architect; the present churchyard will of course be very carefully preserved from desecration and made as ornamental as possible ; a statue or fountain will probably occupy the centre of the square formed by the removal of the Church. The large brick building immediately to the east of this contains the PHILOSOPHICAL ROOMS. 163 IN which is a fine collection of British Birds and other curiosities ; here are held the meetings of the Cambridge Philosophical Society, which was instituted November 15th, 1819, for the purpose of promoting scientific enquiries, and to facilitate the communication of facts connected with the advancement of Philosophy and Natural History. It was incorporated by Charter in 1832 and consists of Fellows and Honorary members, the former are elected only from Graduates of the University, the latter, limited to fifty, must be such as are not connected with it, and are chiefly members of other learned bodies at home or abroad. It is needless to add that this Society numbers amongst its members many of the greatest philosophers and naturalists of the day. The meetings are held fortnightly during term, when communications, &c. are read. The Society has pub- lished several volumes of valuable transactions. Here also are held the meetings of the Cambridge Architectural and Cambridge Antiquarian Societies ; the former has a very fair collection of books, prints, and brass rubbings, which are deposited here. Nearly opposite All Saints' Church, and separated only by a narrow lane from Trinity College, is the venerable and imposing front of M2 164 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. THE entrance gateway of which deserves especial attention as a fine architectural composition ; it follows the usual Cambridge type, a massive square structure with towers at the corners, and is built of red brick with stone dressings, the archway, which is surmoun- ted by a rich ogee canopy, is ornamented with flowers in the mouldings, and is a good example of late per- pendicular work ; above this is an elaborate piece of sculpture consisting of the arms and supporters of the foundress, Lady Margaret Beaufort, with her badges the Tudor rose and the Beaufort portcullis, crowned; the Visitor should particularly notice how profusely the daisy is introduced into every part, this was the rebus or name-device adopted by the Foundress, its French signification Marguerite representing her Chris- tian name. Between the windows in the second stage is a beautiful niche containing a fine statue of 8. John the evangelist ; he holds his usual emblem, the chalice and serpent, and at his feet is his evangelistic symbol the eagle ; the upper story of the fabric is a subsequent addition adapted to the original plan. THE ENTRANCE GATEWAY. * The Porter's Lodge is under the entrance gateway to the right . s. JOHN'S COLLEGE. 165 Before we enter the College we must give a brief account of its foundation. It derives its name from a Hospital dedicated to S. John the Evangelist, founded by Henry Frost, a burgess of Cambridge, in the reign of Henry II., which occupied the site of the present Col- lege. The Foundress, Lady Margaret Beaufort, Countess of Eichmond and Derby, and mother of King Henry VII., the most munificent of all collegiate patrons, and in private life amongst the most exemplary of her age, after having founded Christ's College, was advised to this noble work by Fisher, Bishop of Rochester. Accordingly, in 1505, she took measures for the conversion of S. John's Hospital into a College, but various causes preventing this being effected during her lifetime, she added a codicil to her will em- powering her executors to carry out her design; she died June 29th, 1509, and her executors applied to Pope Julius II., and after considerable expense and embarrassment, obtained a decretal bull, dated the eighth of the calends of July, 1510, which authorised them to dissolve the old house, and to establish the new College. The Charter of the Foundation, dated April 9th, 1511, having been granted, the building then commenced, and by the care and great exertions of the executors, and Eobert Shorton the first Master, the first court, which then constituted the College, was completed in about four years, at an expense of nearly 5,000. The College was opened on July 29th, 1516, and a Master and thirty-one Fellows were appointed, the original endowment having been for fifty; the rapacity of Henry VIII. caused this reduction, as he had seized the greatest part of the Foundress's lands, and given in exchange possessions of far inferior value, 166 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. and had it not been for the persevering exertions and munificence of Bishop Fisher the whole scheme would probably have dwindled to nothing ; as it is, subsequent rich endowments have raised it considerably above the original design, and it now ranks as the second College in the University. It consists of four courts, three of which are built principally with brick, and are on the east side of the Cam, the fourth or new court is of stone and on the opposite side of the river. The first Court is entered by the gateway we have described, the roof of which is handsomely vaulted, and ornamented with the badges of the foundress ; this court is two hundred and twenty-eight feet long by two hundred and sixteen broad, and has the Chapel on the north, and the Hall on the west; in the angle, between these buildings, is the entrance to the Master's Lodge: the south side, somewhat to the impairing of the effect, was cased with stone in 1774. The Chapel though it has been repaired and faced with stucco, has internally some handsome and interest- ing features; it occupies the site of the Chapel of S. John's Hospital, the earlier work of which may in several parts be distinctly traced; the interior is separated into two parts by the organ-gallery, it is one hundred and twenty feet long, and twenty-five broad. In the ante-chapel, opposite the choir entrance is a fine sitting statue of Dr. Wood, late Master and Dean of Ely, by E. H. Bailey, R.A. ; on the north side is a monument to the memory of Archdeacon Ashton, one of the executors of the Lady Margaret's will ; it represents this great benefactor to the College, above as a recumbent effigy in his robes, and under- s. JOHN'S COLLEGE. 167 neath as an emaciated corpse or cadaver ; the tomb is orna- mented with his rebus, an ash tree springing out of a tun ; be- hind this monument is the A sh t o n chant ry, t w e n t y feet by thirteen, lighted by three small windows, and near it lies buried under a flat stone the excellent and celebrated antiquary Thomas Baker. Numerous memorials con- sisting of brasses, tablets, and inscriptions to various members of the Society, are in this ante-chapel, together with a beautiful bust, by Chantrey, of the Hon. Fox Townshend, who died while a student at College. The Chapel formerly had attached to it four Chantries. Those of Dr. Keyton and Dr. Thompson, which were on the south side, have long been destroyed, Dr. Ashton's we have mentioned, the remaining one is Bishop Fisher's which is on the north side of the MONUMENT TO ARCHDEACON A8HTON. 168 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. altar. The three arches opening into this Chantry are beautifully moulded, its dimensions are twenty-seven feet by ten, and it has a single window at the west end. The stall work is very good both in design and workmanship, and is for the most part original ; there are many carved misereres. The roof is modern, of plain oak panelling; the side windows are very plain and have probably been denuded of their tracery, (they contain the arms of the most distinguished members and benefactors of the College), the east window is perpendicular of seven lights. The Communion-plate of silver-gilt is magnificent, as is also the cloth of gold used for the Communion-table when the Holy Sacrament is administered. The altar-piece was pre- sented by the late Hon. E.. H. Clive, M.P., it is a fine painting by A. R. Mengs, and represents the re- ception of our Lord's body after it had been taken from the Cross. There is a beautiful brass eagle-desk, the gift of the late Rev. Thomas Whytehead, Fellow, and Chaplain to the Bishop of New Zealand. The organ a fine instrument built by Hill was purchased in 1839 by the subscriptions of the Society. Here are several memorials to members of the College, but with the exception of two ancient mutilated brasses, none worthy of special notice. Choral service is per- formed here on Sundays, on Saturday evenings, and on Saints' days and their eves. The doorway leading to the Hall though simple and lowly is very beautiful, over it is a niche containing a statue of the Foundress. The Hall is a lofty and well-proportioned room, sixty feet by thirty; it has a fine timber roof, and the wainscoting at the upper end consists of a canopy rich S. JOHN'S COLLEGE. 169 in carved work and gilding, over excellent portraits of Lady Margaret the foundress; Archbishop Williams; and Sir Ealph Hare by Marie Garrard. In other parts of the room are a curious half-length of Bishop Fisher ; a full-length of Dr. Morton, Bishop of Durham ; por- traits of Dr. Bentley, Bishop Stillingfleet" Thomas Baker the antiquary, Dr. Wood, and others. The Combination-room, which adjoins the Hall, is wainscoted throughout; its chief object of interest is the fine old carved chimney piece; here also are por- traits of Dr. Parr, the poet Wordsworth, Bishop Selwyn of New Zealand, William Wilberforce, Professor Adams, Sir John Herschel and others. The second Court is more extensive than the first, measuring two hundred and seventy feet in length and two hundred and forty in breadth. The foundation stone was laid Oct. 2nd, 1598, and it was completed in 1602, chiefly at the cost of Mary, Countess of Shrewsbury and retains THE SECOND COUET. it has a studious picturesque appearance its original aspect unaltered. On the western side is another of our noble gateway towers, late in style but handsome and commanding ; the upper story is a subsequent addition ; over the archway in a niche is a statue of the Countess of Shrewsbury; the architect of this court was Ralph Symons who 170 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. rearranged the great court of Trinity, and built Sidney and Emmanuel Colleges ; he seems to have been the best architect of his day. The total cost of this court was 3,655. The third Court is smaller than either of the others, and has not an unpleasant though a somewhat quaint appearance. The Library, which occupies the north side of the quadrangle, was completed in 1624; it is a remarkable and handsome example of what is called Jacobean Gothic, especially in the tracery of the windows ; its interior we shall visit presently. The south and west sides of this court were commenced in 1699, and completed at the cost of 5,256, upwards of 2,000 being contributed by subscribers, the rest by the College. The western side is occupied by a small cloister over which are apartments for the students. ARCADE IN THIRD COURT LEADING TO THE MKW URIDOK. s. JOHN'S COLLEGE. 171 The fourth or new Court, which for situation is one of the most pleasant in the University, is approached INTERIOR OP THE NEW BRIDGE. from the third court through three arches leading to a handsome bridge of a single span, covered over so 172 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. that it has the appearance of a cloister; the sides are pierced with open perpendicular windows: this leads us to a vaulted cloister, which extends along the whole south side of the Court, having in the centre a hand- some gateway leading to the College grounds ; the , -=r I. ^-z INTERIOR OF GATEWAY, FOURTH COURT. interior of this gateway has an elegant fan tracery roof with a central pendant ; it stands immediately in front of the massive lantern tower, which the Visitor should not fail to enter in order to notice the singular effect of the lofty well staircase. The exterior of this court on all sides is very striking ; the river front bold and massive; the south elevation facing the walks S. JOHNS COLLEGE. 173 elegant and collegiate, the outline being well broken by the lantern, the corner turrets, and the projecting wings ; THE NEW BRIDGE AND RIVER FRONT. and the west end, though plain, has a very handsome stately appearance. The whole front of the building is four hundred and eighty feet long, the width one hundred and eighty, and the height to the top of the lantern tower one hundred and twenty feet ; it was commenced in 1827, and completed in 1831, the architects being Messrs. Bickman and Hutchinson. It contains one hundred and five sets of rooms, and the total cost of its erection was 77,878. With many details which now-a-days we may be inclined to criticize, taken as a whole, it must be considered as by far the greatest advance made at that period in collegiate Gothic, a great ornament to the College and the University, and not unworthy of the great pioneer of revived Gothic art from whose design it was erected. The Library, which is entered at the north west corner of the second Court, occupies the whole upper 174 HAND-BOOK FOE VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. part of the north side of the third Court, and is about one hundred and fifty feet long ; it was erected chiefly at the cost of Lord Keeper Williams, afterwards Arch- bishop of York, who contributed upwards of 2,000 towards it; the remainder was contributed by the Society. It is a spacious room and of noble pro- portions, and is lighted by ten lofty pointed windows with good Gothic tracery. The wood-work of the roof is handsome but peculiar, and is divided into compartments between flat arches, with pendants from their centres corresponding to the number of the windows. The room terminates in a bold circular recess, lighted by three lofty pointed windows ; the rich armorial bearings of Archbishop Williams decorate the roof. This Library possesses a very valuable collec- tion of Bibles, Service books, Psalters, the Fathers, and early Classics, and some of the rarest specimens of printing before the year 1500 to be found at home or abroad. Among them are : Augustinus De Ancond de potestate Ecclesiasticd, Cologne, 1475 ; a beautiful copy of Peter Lombard's Sentences, by Vin. de Spira, Venice, 1477 ; Summa Destructorium Viciorum, 1485 ; Reper- torium Joh: Milis in Jure Canonico, Louvain, 1475; Jacobi Magni Sophologium, Paris, 1475 ; Justin, Milan, 1476; Plinius, Parma, 1476; Theophylactus in Sancti Pauli Epistolas, 1477 ; Cazton's Diets and Sayings of Philosophers, 1477; Terentius, Venice, 1479; Gregorii Magni Opus Moralium, Venice, 1480; Higderfs Poly- chronicon, 1482. These, and many other valuable books, in all one thousand and sixty-eight, were left to the College by the learned Thomas Baker, formerly Fellow; and Matthew Prior, the Poet, left a very- choice collection of Historical and Topographical works. s. JOHN'S COLLEGE. 175 This College possesses a most valuable literary rarity a copy of Cranmer's great Bible, (1539), printed on vellum, which belonged to Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex; it is a noble volume, and may rank among the finest books on vellum in existence. Here are also the complete libraries of Archbishop Williams and Bishop Gunning. The late Master, Dr. James Wood, also left to it, in 1839, his valuable collection of books, consisting of about four thousand volumes; the total number in the Library is upwards of twenty-six thousand, and of these about four hundred are manu- scripts. The Master's Lodge is extensive and commodious; it extends westward from the Chapel throughout the whole length of the north side of the second court, and contains a numerous assemblage of portraits, of which the following may be considered as the principal : A half-length, by Hans Holbein, supposed to be John Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, he is represented in a gown and furs, in one hand is a staff, in the other a glove : a ring on his finger is marked H.H. Margareta Mater Henrici VII. (the foundress), a small three-quarter length, on board ; which, together with another of this distinguished lady preserved here, is extremely curious : both pieces represent her kneeling, with her hands clasped, and a book before her; one of these appears to be an original, the other is supposed to be by Holbein. Robert Shorton, the first Master, represented in a fur cloak. Queen Elizabeth, on board. Cecil, Lord Burleigh, half-length, on board. Mary, Queen of Scots, eet. 20, dated 1561, half-length, on board. Henry Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, dressed in armour, with a rich shawl finely worked. Mary, 176 HAND-BOOK FOE, VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Countess of Shrewsbury, represented in a vast fardin- gale, with a high ruff, and her dress ornamented with an abundance of jewels. Peter Gunning, Bishop of Ely. John Lake, Bishop of Chichester. Lawrence Fogg, Dean of Chester, half-length, very spirited. Lucius Gary, Lord Viscount Falkland, half-length. Thomas, Earl of Strafford, in armour, from the original by Vandyke. Biehard Neile, Archbishop of York, small, on board. Edward Stillingfleet, Bishop of Worcester, three-quarter-length, by Mrs. Beale. Mat- thew Prior, the poet and statesman, dressed in his ambassador's robes, richly decorated. Queen Henrietta Maria. Abraham Cowley the poet. Francis Turner, the non-juring Bishop of Ely. Lord Chief Justice Heath, very expressive and finely coloured. Thomas Baker, the celebrated antiquary, represented in his gown and bands, with a thin, studious face. William Platt, Esq., a small piece, of considerable merit, on board. Most of these pictures with many others of inferior merit, are disposed in the noble and spacious gallery, extending the whole length of the north side of the second Court. In an apartment of the Lodge, a curious set of chairs, said to have been presented to the Society by Charles II. is preserved ; one of them is a large elbow-chair, ornamented with beautiful carvings of cherubs, lions' heads, and other fanciful embellish- ments. Passing out of the third court by an archway on the south side, a picturesque old bridge of three arches leads us to the College walks and gardens, which are pleasantly laid out, and more diversified than any in the University ; from them a fine view is obtained of the Library and Bridge of Trinity College. These walks s. JOHN'S COLIEGE. 177 THE OLD BI1IDOE. consist of a series of terraces, and several pleasant retired paths encompassing the meadows, which are planted with a number of fine trees; amongst which are some stately elms, ranking among the largest and tallest in the kingdom. Beyond these is the Fellows' Garden or Wilderness; a large piece of ground, laid out in a tasteful and agreeable style, containing a bowling-green, and trees planted in such order as to resemble, when in leaf, the interior of a church ; these grounds are said to have been laid out by Matthew Prior the poet, and have been thus beautifully alluded to by an Oxford man : It was a garden wild, a mystic scene, Which an old poet in times past had planned, And May was colouring with lines of green, The goodly work of his religious hand. For he had thought a broad church cross to make, And bade the elms the hallowed form to take. IT 178 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Transept and nave each summer roofs with care, And here perchance in life's less happy hours, The dwellers in that holy house repair, To learn deep Christian things from homely flowers, When evening comes with many winds to chime, Up in the trees her own cathedral time. Eminent Men: Sir John Cheke, Professor of Greek, and Secretary of State. He was a native of Cambridge, 1557. Roger Ascham, Preceptor to Queen Elizabeth, 1568. Edwin Sandys, Archbishop of York, 1588. William Cecil, Lord Burleigh, Lord Treasurer to Queen Eliza- beth, and Chancellor of the University, 1598. Thomas Sackville, Earl of Dorset, Lord High Treasurer, 1601. Thomas Button, founder of the Charterhouse, 1611. Robert Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, Lord High Treasurer, 1612. The famous Ben Jonson, 1637. Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, beheaded 1641. Lucius Gary, Viscount Falkland, killed at Newbury, 1643. John Williams, Lord Keeper, Archbishop of York, 1650. Robert Herrick, the Poet, 1674. Thomas Otway, the dramatic Poet, 1685. Edward Stillingfleet, the learned Bishop of Worcester, 1699. William Beveridge, Bishop of S. Asaph, 1708. Dr. Richard Bentley, the eminent Critic ; Master of Trinity College, 1742. Dr. William Cave, the Ecclesiastical Historian, 1713. Matthew Prior, the Poet and Statesman, 1721. Thomas Baker, the learned Antiquary, 1740. Mark Akenside, the Poet, 1770. Henry Kirke White, the Poet, 1806. Henry Martyn, the Missionary, 1812. William Wilberforce, 1833. William Wordsworth, the Poet, 1850. To this brief selection from the many eminent deceased members of this College, we may add the names of two now living, Viscount Palmerston the veteran statesman, THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCIIEE. 179 and George Augustus Selwyn, the accomplished Bishop of New Zealand. This distinguished Society consists of a Master, fifty- six Fellows, and sixty foundation scholars ; it has also a very large number of minor scholars, exhibitioners, and sizars. The number of Undergraduates is about three hundred, and of members on the boards upwards of fifteen hundred. The gross annual revenue is about 27,000. On leaving S. John's we still continue our route to the left and soon come upon Cjmrrjr of % f 01$ OB the Bound Church, as it is commonly called ; a most interesting building, [the oldest of the four Bound Churches remaining in England; it was consecrated in the year 1101, by the name of "The Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jewry," and was no doubt ISf founded after the s ^H^H model of the Church 3= of the Holy Sepulchre THE ROUND C1IUUCH. 180 HAND-BOOK FOE VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. at Jerusalem, and probably by one of the early crusaders as a grateful memorial of his safe return from the Holy "Wars. The original or circular portion of this remarkable building is an interesting example of the early Norman style of architecture ; about four hundred years after its erection its appearance was BOUND CHUUCH BEFORE THE RESTORATION. much changed by the addition of a perpendicular belfry story, and the substitution of late perpendicular windows for those of Norman date; a chancel and north aisle were at the same time added, and in process of time the round portion was blocked up with high THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 181 pews and a gallery. The great additional weight of the upper story and the bells, gradually weakened the structure, and in 1841 a large portion of the circular aisle fell in ; the Cambridge Camden Society then came forward and undertook the entire restoration of the Church, which was faithfully and skilfully effected, after the plans of Mr. A. Salvin : the perpendicular belfry was removed and the present conical capping substituted, Norman windows reinserted, the pews re- moved entirely from the circular part, a new south aisle added to make up to the parish for the room thus lost, and a belfry turret erected. INTERIOR VIEW. We enter by a round headed doorway which slightly projects and has the usual Norman mouldings of the period, the circular portion of the interior is supported 182 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. by eight short massive piers with round arches, over these is a second tier of eight arches forming the triforium, or blindstory, and above these is a clerestory, with eight plain Norman windows, forming a low round tower; the whole is surmounted by a stone domical vault, traces of a previous one having been discovered during the restoration : the singular form of this part of the building, the almost barbaric massiveness of the architecture, and the subdued light of the painted glass windows, render this interior view peculiarly solemn and striking. The eastern portion of the Church is for the most part quite recent, and contains some good modern wood carving, and a fine painted east window, by Willement, representing the Crucifixion, one of the earliest and most successful examples of the revival of this beautiful art. The entire Church was restored in rather more than two years, at an expense exceeding 4,000, to the sound and effective condition in which we now see it. The only other Churches in England, built in this form, are those of the Temple in London; the Holy Sepulchre, Northampton ; and Little Maplestead, Essex. This Church deserves careful attention externally as well as internally. On leaving it we turn to the right down BRIDGE STREET, the most ancient and still the principal thoroughfare in Cambridge ; it follows the course of the celebrated Eoman road known as the Via Devana, which ran in a straight course from Chester to Colchester, and traces of this remarkable roadway are still some- times met with about twelve feet below the surface of the present street; a few hundred yards beyond the Eound Church, on the same side of the street, is s. CLEMENT'S CHURCH. 183 Ay uninteresting building, originally of the early English or first pointed style of architecture, hut taring alterations and additions of the subsequent styles. A very rich doorway evidently removed from some other part of the Church remains at the south west end; this and the four western pier arches are portions of the original early English building; on the floor is an interesting old gravestone, with a mutilated inscription in beautiful Longobardic charac- ters, to John de Helysingham, Mayor of Cambridge, who died in 1329; the tower and spire were erected in 1822 by a bequest from the Eev. Win. Cole, F.S.A., the indefatigable antiquary, whose curious punning motto JUeitin Col* "Worship God" is carved over the western entrance. The font is handsome and of the perpendicular style. This parish which occupied an important position in the old town of Cambridge, still retains many ancient features and has several quaint old houses in it which contain curious wood carvings. Continuing our course to the right after leaving the Church we soon come to the GREAT BRIDGE, which occupies the site of what seems at an early period to have been the only bridge over the Cam in this part of the county, and therefore gave the name to the town adjacent to it; most probably there was a ford or bridge very near here during the Eoman period ; in mediaeval times, judging by the constant in- quisitions for its repair, it must either have been much neglected, or the traffic over it must have been very great; up to 1754 the ducking stool was constantly 184 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. hanging from the centre of this bridge, its use was probably then getting obsolete, but we know that in the early part of the century scolding wives were ducked in it, and that as late as 1 766 a new one was made by order of the Court of Quarter Sessions, to be kept in readiness in case it might be required. The present bridge which is of iron, is certainly useful rather than ornamental, it was erected by public subscription in 1 823 ; from the left-hand side may be obtained a view of the river front of the new buildings of S. John's CoUege. A short distance beyond the bridge, on the right, is the plain and unpretending front of WHICH occupies a portion of the site of a Benedictine priory, established about 1430, as a house in which the Benedictine students, who had hitherto been dis- persed in lodgings about the town, might dwell together according to the rules of their order; it was for a short time called the Monks' Hostel, but acquired, subsequently, about 1483, the name of Buckingham College, in honour it is thought of Henry Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, who was a benefactor to it. On the suppression of the Monasteries by Henry VIII. this College' having no support but what it enjoyed as a monastic institution, would soon have become extinct had not Thomas, Baron Audley, of Walden, K.Gr., Lord High Chancellor, procured in 1542, a grant of it from the King, and a charter of incor- * Tne Porter's Lodge is under the entrance on the left. MAGDALEN COLLEGE. 185 poration, empowering him to found and establish on its site a College, consisting of a Master and eight Fellows, to be named S. Mary Magdalene College. The endowment was, however, found to be sufficient for only four Fellows, and to that number they were soon after reduced, but they have been since much increased. Lord Audley reserved to himself and his heirs "pos- sessors of the late monastery of Walden," Audley End as it is now called, the right of appointing the Master, which now rests with the present possessor Lord Braybrooke. RST COURT. This the only entire College on the north side of 186 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. the river, consists of two courts: the first, next the street, which is the largest, is one hundred and ten feet long, and seventy-eight broad; it contains the Hall and Chapel, besides other apartments; and although like most of our Colleges it has not escaped the defilement of stucco, it still retains in the southern angle some interesting traces of old Buckingham College. The second court is entered through a gate that has this inscription: " Garde ta Foi." Here is a handsome building of stone, erected about 1688, in the characteristic style of that period, it contains the Pepysian Library and the Fellows' apartments, with a piazza of five arches in front. The Chapel is about fifty feet long and eighteen broad; it went through the usual 18th century course of alteration, when the east window was bricked up, the old timber roof hidden by a flat plaister ceiling, and a cumbrous screen of Grecian wood-work erected at the east end; in 1847 all these incongruities were swept away and the Chapel skilfully and beautifully restored to its original Gothic character ; the fine high- pitched timber roof of the 15th century was once more restored to view ; the entire building fitted up with richly carved and appropriate wood- work; the east window opened, and, with the two side windows, filled with painted glass; and the four beautiful canopied niches at the east end which had been hidden and defaced by the panelling, beautifully and accurately restored; all these improvements have been carried out with the greatest taste and judgement, rendering this Chapel, what all such buildings ought to be, the gem of the College to which it belongs. The Hall is a handsome room, forty-five feet long, MAGDALENE COLLEGE. 187 eighteen broad, and twenty-one high; it is neatly THE BALL. wainscoted and ornamented, with a music gallery at the south end, and a staircase leading to the Combination- room. The Hall contains tolerably good paintings, by Freeman, of Lord Audley ; Edward Stafford, Duke of Buckingham ; Lord Chief Justice Sir Christopher Wray, Knt.; and Edward Eainbow, Bishop of Car- lisle, Master, 1660 ; from originals : also Bishop Cumberland, by Romney ; Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk, K.GK, Lord High Treasurer; a whole-length of Henry Howard, Earl of Suffolk, by Gibson ; Samuel Pepys, Esq., by Sir P. Lely ; Dean Peckard, and 188 HAND-BOOK FOE VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. others ; in the windows are the arms of several recent members of the College. The Master's Lodge, a lofty detached edifice of brick and stone, standing in pleasant and spacious gardens north of the College, was completed in 1837, and contains several good portraits, amongst them are Nicholas Ferrar, said to be by C. Jansen ; Samuel Pepys, Esq., by Sir G. Kneller ; and a portrait of Edward Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, by Houlraken, given to the College by Browne Willis. The terrace on the north side of the grounds is formed upon the southern rampart of the old Roman Station at Cambridge. This College has two Libraries, the principal comprises that given by Samuel Pepys, Esq., who received his education within these walls. He was Secretary to the Admiralty in the reigns of Charles II. and James II., and dying in 1703, left the whole of his collection of books, MSS., and prints to this College. Many of the books are exceedingly rare and valuable, com- prising a rich selection of black letter, and splendid copies of the works of Caxton, De Worde, Pynson, and other early English printers. The MSS. are also extremely valuable, particularly those on maritime affairs, which were collected and written, to a great extent, by Mr. Pepys, in order to form a Naval History of Great Britain. Amongst the most curious of the MSS. must be ranked the original of the celebrated Diary of Mr. Pepys, comprised in six volumes, closely written in short-hand, and containing, in upwards of three thousand pages, a daily account of every remarkable public and private transaction, from 1659 to 1669. The whole of this Journal has been deciphered and published, MAGDALENE COLLEGE. 189 with the exception of a few necessary omissions, under the editorial care of the late Lord Braybrooke ; several editions have been called for. , Here are likewise several volumes of scarce and curious prints ; among which are the twelve Csesars and their wives, from Titian, engraved by Sadleir ; these are in very fine preservation. A large folio volume, in this collection, consists of a series of fragments, selected BUILDING. as specimens of various hand-writings from about the year 900. A small octavo volume contains the original narrative of the escape of Charles II. after the fatal battle of Worcester, taken in short-hand by Mr. Pepys from the King's own words. Besides these curiosities, there are two collections of old poetry: one of English ballads, amounting to two thousand, in five volumes folio, from the earliest period of our history to the year 1 700 ; and the other 190 HAND-BOOK FOB, VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. of ancient Scottish poems in two volumes. These were begun, the worthy diarist tells us, by "the learned Mr. Selden who specially delighted in such things." Pepys added many of older date and continued them on till just before his death. To this collection, which is perfectly unique, Bishop Percy, Pinkerton, and others have been deeply indebted for the chief materials of their interesting works on ballad lore. In the front of this famous Library are the Pepys arms, beneath which is the following inscription : "BlBLIOTHECA PEPYSIANA. MENS CUJUSQUE, is EST QUISQTJE." This collection has been three times removed to different parts of the College and is now kept in rooms in the Master's Lodge. The regulations are by the terms of the Donor's will very stringent, and if any of the works be missing the entire Library goes to Trinity College. The Old Library is situate in the north-east angle of the first court, and is well stored with valuable books, especially a good collection of Divinity given by Dean Peckard. Eminent Men : Bryan Walton, Bishop of Chester, editor of the Polyglot Bible, 1661. Dr. James Duport, the celebrated Greek Professor, Master, 1679. Richard Cumberland, Bishop of Peterborough, 1691. Samuel Pepys, the Diarist, 1703. Dr. Daniel Waterland, the learned Divine, Master, 1740. Dr. Edward Waring, a great Mathematician, 1798. Dr. William Bell, founder of the Bell Scholarships, 1816. This Society consists at present of a Master, four s. GILES'S CHURCH. 191 Foundation and thirteen Bye Fellows, and forty-three Scholars, but regulations are now in progress by which the Bye Fellowships will be gradually abolished, and four additional Foundation Fellows take their place. There are about forty Undergraduates and under two hundred members on the boards; revenue about 4,200. Still continuing our route to the right after leaving Magdalene street, we enter, just at the point where the four roads meet, the ancient Roman city of CAM- BOBITUM ; this important station, which was an oblong square in shape, was surrounded by a rampart and ditch, a few portions of which may still be discerned in the grounds of Magdalene College, and opposite Storey's Almshouses where the N.W. angle is easily traced ; it seems to have been divided into four equal portions by the intersection of the Via Devana and the Akeman street way; the great importance of this station is proved from the circumstance that no less than six Eoman military roads have been traced diverging from it; it included within its boundaries about thirty-five acres. This part of Cambridge still retains the distinctive appellation of "the Borough." The rather unsightly building which stands at the intersection of these four roads is WHICH, notwithstanding its uniform exterior of rough- cast, contains some very ancient and curious portions. S. Giles was the patron Saint of beggars and cripples, and we frequently find Churches dedicated to him at the junction of roads on the outskirts of 192 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. It was founded in 1092 and the chancel walls and chancel arch are of that date; the latter especially s. oir.tss CHURCH. is an interesting example of early Norman architecture, and were it not that the date of its foundation is well authenticated, it would probably be claimed as an example of the Saxon style. Early English windows towns, as if in some way connected with the solicitation or the bestowal of alms before the beggars entered the town. Examples of this occur at S. Giles, Cripplegate, and S. Giles in the fields, London ; also at Norwich, Shrewsbury, Oxford, and other places. s. PETER'S CHURCH. 193 have been inserted in the old chancel walls, and the rest of the original building including a good south doorway, is of the same style. This Church -was most hideously enlarged some fifty years since by throwing out a large excrescence on the north side, with the seats rising gradually northwards like the pit of an amphitheatre; should it ever be rebuilt, which, however desirable, seems at present hopeless, we trust that the older portions will be carefully and reverently preserved. Down a street a little to the west of S. Giles's also stands S. Jrter's tflrt ANOTHER very ancient and dilapidated edifice ; it is supposed to occupy the site of a temple of Diana in the old Roman city, Roman materials being built up in its walls and Roman antiquities having been discovered around it. It has long been in a ruinous condition and was patched up as we now see it in 1781 "rather to commemorate the site than to restore the Church"; still there are some interesting remains about it; the walls are of the Norman style, and the south doorway a rich example of that date. The tower and spire must have been very good specimens of the decorated style before they became so dilapidated, and the tower arch in the interior is of elegant proportions ; the basin of the font is Norman, very rude and curious, it stands on a made-up pedestal. Returning to Castle Street and resuming our route up the hill we arrive, on the right-hand side, at o 194 HAND-BOOK FOE VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Courts, IN which the assizes and general quarter sessions for the County are held. They were built from the plans of Messrs. Wyatt and Brandon, in the Palladian style, and opened in October, 1 842 ; the design is THE COUNTY OOURTS. hardly to be commended, but it is to be regretted that they do not occupy a more central position in the town, especially as their erection on this spot caused the demolition of a fine old Norman gateway tower, the only relic of the Castle built here in the reign of the Conqueror ; its destruction was a ruthless piece of Vandalism and a cause of great regret to all lovers THE CASTLE HILL. 195 of antiquity ; but we are thankful to feel that such an act would hardly be tolerated now-a-days. Adjoining these Courts is the COUNTY G-AOL, the first stone of which was laid in 1802; the buildings are commodious and extensive, and are arranged and classified according to the designs of John Howard the philanthropist. At the back of the gaol is a high artificial mound called the CASTLE HILL ; it was probably an early British fortification, afterwards, as was always the case with such structures, made use of by successive occupiers. The keep of the Norman castle stood on its summit, THE GATKVFAY TOWEIl OF THE CASTLE, NOW DESTROYED. and extensive entrenchments remain on the N.E. and N.W. which were thrown up by Cromwell's soldiers during the Civil War. From the top of this Hill o2 196 HAND-BOOK FOE VISITOES TO CAMBEIDGE. may be obtained a fine panoramic view of Cambridge and of the course of the Cam through the vast fen level to the north, and, on a clear day, a distinct outline of Ely Cathedral in the distance. Eeturning to S. Giles's Church, the road just opposite to it to the right, leads us to a building known as f Jt ([001 0f WHICH never was a school, and never had anything to do with Pythagoras or his philosophy, but it is THE SCIIOO:. OK I'YTHAGOIiA THE OBSERVATORY. 197 a curious fragment of a 12th century manor-house, though much mutilated. There are two windows of transition Norman work on the first floor, and the ground room which was sixty feet long has been vaulted over, though very few traces remain except two Norman vaulting shafts. This room is lighted by a window of the 14th century of two lights; the upper room was reached by an external stone staircase of which scarcely a vestige remains. This house, which is mentioned in old deeds as the Stone-house, is attached to what is called the Merton Hall estate, which was purchased about 1270 by Walter de Merton, and given to his College at Oxford ; since that time it has always been used for farm purposes, and there is not the slightest evidence of its ever having been applied to any other use. At this point of our route we make the nearest approach to WHICH was commenced in 1822 and completed in about three years, from the designs and under the superintendence of the architect Mr. J. C. Mead, of London. The expense was defrayed by subscriptions of 6000, and by a grant of a sum exceeding 12,000 from the University chest, the total cost being 18,115. It is admirably situated for its purpose on an eminence on the road to Madingley, and is about a mile from the College walks. The approach is by a handsome gateway; and the building, which crowns the summit of the rising ground, is surrounded by a 198 HAND-BOOK POH VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. plantation and shrubbery. It is constructed of Bath stone upon a plinth of granite, and is erected in the Doric style, the centre being appropriated for astro- nomical purposes, and the wings for the residence of the observers. The length of the building is about one hundred and sixty feet, and the breadth about THE OBSEEVATOKT. fifty-eight feet. The centre of the edifice is surmounted by a dome, ten feet high and fourteen feet in diameter, which is so constructed, from its revolving on wheels, as to be easily moved round by a single hand, although upwards of three tons weight. In the spring of 1835, a magnificent telescope, with an object-glass of eleven-and-a-half inches effective aperture, and twenty feet focal length, made by M. Cauchoix of Paris, was presented to the Observatory MADINQLEY HALL. 199 by the late Duke of Northumberland. A building has accordingly been erected near the Observatory, with a revolving dome twenty-seven feet in diameter,^ for the reception and mounting of this noble gift. In addition to this, and several other valuable instru- ments which are used by the observers, there are others of less size and value, appropriated to the use of the Students of the University. The observations made at this establishment from 1828 to 1848 have been published in yearly volumes, under the editorial care of the Professor of Astronomy, and printed at the expense of the University. Copies are presented to the principal Observatories in different parts of the world. The Observatory is open to members of the Uni- versity and their friends every day, except Sunday, from half-past twelve till half-past one. No stranger can be admitted except in company with a member of the University. About three miles beyond the Observatory is all, WHICH was selected as the residence of the Prince of Wales during the time His Royal Highness was keeping his terms at Trinity College; we therefore include it in our Hand-look, although it is some distance beyond the boundaries of the University. It is an ancient brick building, chiefly erected in the reign of Henry VIII. but with many later additions; it was formerly the seat of the Hinde family, but became the seat of the old family of Cotton of Landwade 200 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. early in the 1 7th. century, by marriage with the heiress of the Hindes. It is a fine picturesque old house, situated in the midst of woods and pleasure grounds, with an ornamental piece of water in the park ; there GATEWAY OP THE SCHOOLS (FROM LOCGAN) NOW AT MADINOI.EY HALL. are some very fine old cedars, and the entrance to the stables was formerly the gateway to the Public Schools at Cambridge, and is a handsome example of the perpendicular style. There are some fine family portraits in the mansion, especially one of Sir John Hinde Cotton by Kneller. The village Church, which stands just inside the park, is a small building chiefly of the early English style ; it contains some monuments of the Cotton family, but their usual burial place is still at Landwade, near Newmarket, where they origi- nally resided. JESUS COLLEGE. 201 At the end of the road leading to the Observatory we turn to the right until we come to the handsome back gates of 8. John's College ; passing through J;he walks and courts of this College, and crossing the road to All Saints' passage, we emerge just opposite the entrance of Jesus lane, at the farther end of which is IT stands back some distance from the road, on the left-hand side, and is approached by a long walk between two walls facetiously termed the chimney; it is very pleasantly situated and surrounded by gardens JESUS COLLEGK FBOM THK MEADOWS. and green fields; this retired position is said to have called forth a remark from King James I., "that if he lived in the University he would pray at King's, eat at Trinity, and study and sleep at Jesus." The origin of this interesting College is different from any other in the University, as it is the only complete instance of a monastic establishment being transformed into a College. It occupies the site of an * The Porter's Lodge is under the entrance gateway to the left. 202 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. old Benedictine nunnery, dedicated to S. Khadegund,. principally founded in the reign of Henry II. by Malcolm IV., King of Scotland. It "was the only nunnery in Cambridge, it being thought unadvisable to establish such institutions in the vicinity of the University; an objection well founded, for towards the close of the 15th century, the nuns in this establish- ment became notorious for their dissolute lives and extravagance, and in a few years the buildings fell into decay, and their revenues were so wasted that only two nuns were left. It was at this period that the munificent and pious John Alcock, Bishop of Ely, determined to convert it into a College, and in 1497 he obtained letters patent from Henry VII. empowering him to do so, and to put the College, when established, into possession of the lands and property of every sort spiritual and temporal, belonging to the dissolved nunnery. The front of the College is one hundred and eighty feet long, the most conspicuous feature being the old Church of S. Rhadegund's nunnery with its central tower; this stands at the extreme east end of the building. The entrance gateway, at the end of the long walk, is a beautiful architectural composition, differing from anything of the kind we have in Cambridge, and following rather the Oxford type ; it is built of brick and stone, the archway being surmounted by a graceful ogee canopy with crockets and finials ; above this is a niche in which has recently been placed a statue of the Founder ; an effective graduated battlement finishes the structure. The effect of this fine gateway and front is sadly spoilt by more of that lamentable 18th JESUS COLLEGE. 203 century work which we have so often had to deplore in the course of our route; here it was intended to Italianize the en- tire College, but luckily funds were wanting, and so they contented themselves with inserting sash windows wher- ever they could be seen from the road, letting the old Gothic win- dows remain in the ground floor where they were concealed by the garden walls. On the top of the niche in the gateway is Bishop Alcock's badge or rebus a cock, which may be seen in many parts of the College ; to be quite complete it should stand upon a globe which represents the first syllable of his name, and it often occurs in this form as well. In a window in the Library is a cock with a label issuing from his mouth, having the inscription "Eyw t'iyui oXeKTtap " I am a cock"; to which another on the opposite side bravely crows in reply "Ourwc *a eyw "and I'm another"/ The first Court, which is about one hundred and forty feet by one hundred and twenty, is open towards the meadows on the west; it was built as we now see it partly in 1643 and partly in 1718 ; with its ivy covered THE ENTRANCE GATEWAY. 204 HAXD-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. walls, the green meadows in front, and its open sunny aspect, this court presents a very pleasing appearance. The second Court is entered by a beautiful though GATEWAY TO THE CLOISTER COURT. unpretending gateway, surmounted by the cock, and JESUS COLLEGE. 205 bearing the arms of the Founder and the see of Ely ; it is surrounded by a plain but venerable looking cloister, and has quite a retired mediaeval air aJDout it ; it was built soon after the foundation of the College, but occupies the site of the ancient cloisters of the nunnery : opening into it are the entrances to the Chapel, the Hall, and the Master's Lodge. The third or new Court is a small range of buildings on the north side, erected in 1823. The Chapel is only second to that of King's College in beauty, and in many respects exceeds it in archi- ARCAllK IN THE TOWEH. tectural interest ; it is cruciform in shape "with a central tower, and must originally, as the old Church of 8. Ehadegund's nunnery, have been of noble dimensions, the nave having aisles, and the chancel a chapel on each side, its style varied from transition Norman to late early English. Bishop Alcock, in converting it into a Chapel for bis College, went to work as 206 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. ruthlessly as any modern Church restorer; he pulled down the side Chapels in the chancel, filled up the arches which led to them, and inserted between these late perpendicular windows, added a story to the low tower, pulled down the greater part of the nave and the entire aisles, put on a new flat roof, and entirely altered the original character of the building. Bishop Alcock's work went through the usual course of de- molition in the 18th century, when all his beautiful stall work was turned out, painted deal seats substituted, the chancel arch bricked up, the roof ceiled under, &c. Thus it remained till 1845 when a thorough restoration was determined upon, and undertaken solely at the expense of members of the College, and All Saints' day 1849, witnessed its completion in the sumptuous and elaborate way in which we now see it, with the exception of the painted glass which has been added at intervals. In effecting this every care has been taken to seek for and follow indications of the original fabric ; the north chapel was rebuilt upon its old foundations, the east end restored according to the arrangement found built up in the wall, the pitch of the roof raised to the height indicated by the weather line on the tower, and the beautiful wood-work copied exactly from various portions which were discovered of the original fittings. The length of the entire Chapel is one hundred and twenty-seven feet, of the Choir sixty-five, the width of the transepts from north to south about eighty-two feet. The lancet side windows at the east end of the chancel form beautiful arcades, the mouldings of which are very rich and elaborate; on the south side JESUS COLLEGE. 207 PISCINA AND SEDILIA. are an elegant double piscina and graduated sedilia. The carved wood-work, painted glass, metal work, and entire fittings of this sumptuous Chapel are worthy of all praise, as examples of the proficiency attained by modern art in such matters. The ante-chapel, which is of rather earlier character than the choir, is at present unrestored. The four tower arches are of noble proportions, and are ornamented with the dog-tooth moulding; the lantern story, which was for a long time hidden by a plaister ceiling, has been thrown open and now reveals its elaborate arcading. The nave and transepts contain numerous monuments and inscriptions to Masters, Fellows, and others con- nected with the College. In the south transept there is a gravestone, bearing the date of 1261, to one of the nuns of S. Khadegund, with this beautiful in- scription in Longobardic characters, MOBIBUS 208 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. JACET HIC BONA BERTA EOSATA." Here also is another tombstone supposed to have been brought from the Church of the Grey Friars monastery, where Sidney College now stands, when that Church was destroyed in 1546, "Hie jacet Prater Johannes de Pykenham magister sacre theologie Prior hujus loci cujus animao propicietur Deus." In the nave is a well executed tablet, with a medallion, to the memory of the munifi- cent and charitable Tobias Eustat, yeoman of the robes to Charles II., who was a great benefactor to this College; he died 1693. There are also two me- morials to Dr. E. D. Clarke the celebrated traveller. Choral service is celebrated in this Chapel on Sundays, on Saturday evenings, and on Saints' days and their eves. The Hall, which is entered by a flight of steps on the north side of the cloisters, stands on the foundation walls of the refectory of the nunnery; it is a fine perpendicular building with a good open timber roof springing from excellent corbels, every alternate one representing a cock, which device also occurs in many of the windows ; at the north-east angle is an elegant oriel window roofed with delicate fan tracery; the screen and wainscoting are of classical design, but do not much deteriorate from the general effect ; at the east end are portraits of Tobias Kustat, a very fine original by Sir Peter Lely ; Archbishop Cranmer, a copy by Sir Joshua Reynolds; and Archbishop Sterne; on the side walls are portraits of Dr. E. D. Clarke and Lord Middleton. This room is fifty-four feet long, twenty- seven broad, and thirty high. The Combination-room is entered from the Hall, and contains a portrait on panel of the Founder in full episcopal vestments in a kneeling attitude ; a very fine JESTTS COLLEGE. 209 painting on panel, by Holbein, of Archbishop Cranmer ; others of Henry VIII., Mary Queen of Scots, Dr. Harvey, and various members of the College; "there is also a bust of Dr. E. D. Clarke. The Library is a large low venerable looking room, with a good collection of books and about two hundred MSS. The Master's Lodge occupies a portion of the nave of the old conventual Church; it contains some fine portraits, especially those of Archbishops Bancroft and Cranmer on panel, and is pleasantly situated with a very ample garden before it, in which there is a tree planted by Dr. Edward Daniel Clarke. Eminent Men : Archbishop Cranmer, burnt at Oxford, 1556. Archbishop Bancroft, 1610. John Pearson, Bishop of Chester, Master, 1686. John Flamsteed, F.R.S., Astronomer royal, 1719. Laurence Sterne, author of Tristram Shandy, 1768. Edward Daniel Clarke, LL.D., the celebrated traveller, 1822. Samuel Taylor Coleridge, the Poet, 1835. This College consists of a Master, who is appointed by the Bishop of Ely, sixteen Foundation Fellows, three Bye Fellows, and forty-six Scholarships and Exhibitions of unequal value; the number of Under- graduates is about forty, and of members on the boards about two hundred and forty. Returning to the entrance gateway we advise the Visitor who has no taste for antiquities to retrace his steps towards Sidney College, but if he cares for such matters we propose to lead him, by a rather long walk, to two interesting fragments of mediaeval Cambridge ; for this purpose we continue our course to the left, p 210 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. and soon arrive at a fine open space known as MIDSUMMER COMMON, on the farther side of which the river Cam flows in its course towards Ely; the part nearest the road still retains its appellation of Butt Green, from having been the site of the archery butts in the olden times. On this common is held Midsummer Fair, granted to Barnwell Priory by Bang John; it commences on the eve of S. Etheldreda or Awdry, and deserves mention frftm having added a word to the English language, for here were sold ribands of various gay colours which had been blessed at S. Awdry's shrine, thence called S. Awdry's ribands, and by the usual English process corrupted into tawdry. We here enter the extensive parish of BARIVWELL or S. Andrew the Less, now connected by its buildings with Cambridge, and having a population of nearly twelve thousand, though fifty years since it was merely a small detached village with four hundred inhabitants; to meet this rapid increase two new Churches have been erected by voluntary subscription, one of which we soon arrive at on the right-hand side, known as A SPACIOUS building of very peculiar outline and appearance, and erected more with a view of accommo- dating a large number, than with any regard to archi- tectural taste or ritual propriety; it was consecrated May 24th, 1839, and has proved a great blessing to the thickly populated district in which it is situated ; had its erection taken place a few years later no doubt we should have had a very different building; it CHRIST CHURCH. 211 consists of a lofty nave with clerestory, and aisles with square-headed windows, and has a plain turret at each angle ; there is no chancel, and a gallery sur- CHBIST CHURCH. rounds three sides of the interior; its dimensions are ninety-six feet by sixty-six; the material is red brick with stone dressings; this Church points north and south. Continuing our route up the road we come, at some little distance on the left-hand side, to 212 HAND-BOOK FOE VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. 0f $, A SMALL but interesting building, which has lately been restored under the auspices of the Cambridge Architectural Society ; it is seventy feet long and eighteen broad, and, with the exception of an inserted perpendicular window, is of the early English style throughout; there is a double lancet window at the west end, and over this are two small openings for the bells;- the east window is a beautiful triplet, quite plain outside, but highly enriched internally with mouldings and banded shafts ; there are no aisles, and the nave and chancel have no external separation. This Church was attached to the once important BARNWELL REMAINS OF BARNWELL PRIORY. PRIORY, one of the most considerable monasteries in this part of the kingdom, founded in 1112 by Payne STOTJRBRIDGE FAIR. 213 Peverel for Augustine canons ; it was at one time a place of great magnificence, for in 1388 King Richard H. summoned the Parliament to meat him here; in 1539 it was surrendered to Henry VIII., and though as late as 1810 considerable ruins were still standing, all that remains at present is a building now used as a stable, on the north side of the Church, apparently of early English work; it has plain lancet windows and a very good vaulted stone roof. The site of the Priory, extending to the river side, may still be distinctly traced by the irregularities of the ground. Still proceeding eastward, at some distance from the Abbey, on the same side of the road beyond the houses, we reach a large open field, above half a mile square, where is still held, during September, the celebrated STOURBRIDGE or STURBITCH FAIR, formerly by far the largest, and one of the most famous fairs in England, it lasted fourteen days and was resorted to by merchants from all parts of the kingdom ; the booths were arranged in numerous streets each bearing its peculiar name, where an immense amount of property was annually disposed of; in 1605 the fair was first attended by hackney-coaches from London, and the multitudes of people assembled in some years have been so great that upwards of sixty coaches have plied at one time; it is of course now merely a shadow of its former self. This fair derives its name from a small stream, a tributary of the Cam, called the Stour, which forms its eastern boundary, near the banks of which stands a venerable relic known as 214 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. IT was dedicated to S. Mary Magdalene, and was the Chapel attached to a hospital for lepers founded on this spot in the 12th century. This is a beautiful example of rich Norman architecture and well worth a visit ; it consists only of chancel and nave, externally the windows, doorways, and string courses present good examples of various well known Norman mouldings, the saw-tooth, zigzag, billet, &c. ; internally the most interesting feature is the very rich chancel arch, which has good scallop capitals, and lozenge, zigzag, and other Norman ornaments. This beautiful little Chapel was at one time sadly desecrated during the continu- ance of Stourbridge fair ; it has now long been disused, and it is to be feared is rapidly falling into ruin. We have now reached the extreme eastern boundary of Cambridge, and have to retrace our steps the whole length of the road by which we came, past Jesus College to the end of Jesus lane, where, turning to the left, we soon come upon what appears to be a group of modern buildings, open to the street; these form the two Courts of WHICH was built on the site of a monastery of Franciscans, or Grey Friars, who established them- selves on the spot about 1274, and formed the most The Porter's Lodge is under the entrance archway on the left. SIDNEY SUSSEX COLLEGE. 215 considerable monastic institution in Cambridge. On the suppression of their House it was granted by Henry VIII. to the Master and Fellows of Trinity College, of whom it was purchased by the executors of Frances, daughter of Sir William Sidney, and widow of Thomas Eadcliffe, third Earl of Sussex. This lady, by will dated December 6th, 1588, "be- queathed 5,000 and some other property, to found a College for a Master, ten Fellows, and twenty Scholars; but the bequest being insufficient to defray the cost of the buildings, and to support so great an establishment, the Fellows were reduced by her ex- ecutors to seven, but have since been increased by additional endowments to more than the number origi- nally intended. The first stone of this College was laid on the 20th of May, 1596, and the building completed in three years. This College has such a modern appearance from having been faced throughout with cement within the last forty years, under the direction of Sir Jeffrey Wyatville, when the character of the buildings was changed to the pseudo-gothic style of the period; previous to this great alteration the College was a gloomy irregular pile, of the later Elizabethan period, in red brick and stone, consisting as now of two Courts open on the west side to the street, from whence it was separated by a plain wall in which was the entrance doorway; it is now entered by a gateway beneath the central division of the College, conveniently opening into both Courts, this has a lofty elevation towards the street with graduated gables on three sides. The north Court, which measures ninety-eight feet by seventy-seven, is embattled and gabled; the windows 216 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. THE NORTH COURT. on the east side are square-headed with transoms, and the central portion projects beyond the rest with an arcade beneath, which serves as a porch to the Hall and the Master's Lodge. The second or south Court is rather smaller than the first, and is gabled and embattled on the north and south sides ; the west side, on which stand the Library and Chapel, has pinnacles, a porch, and an open bell- gable rising from the centre. The Chapel, which stands on the site of the refectory of the monastery, was rebuilt in 1780, and is fifty- seven feet long, and twenty-four broad ; it was erected chiefly from the designs of Essex, but has since been "gothicized" and rendered uniform with the rest of the College. The Altar-piece is a Repose during the Flight into Egypt: it was executed by Pittoni, a SIDNEY SUSSEX COLLEGE. 217 Venetian, and represents the Virgin with the infant Saviour in her arms reclining on some loose straw, to the right is S. Joseph sleeping ; this painting sustained damage through the ship in which it was brought from Venice being leaky ; both the composition and the colouring are very good. At the opposite end of the Chapel is a gallery for the Master's family. The Hall is a spacious well proportioned room, but the old timber roof is concealed by a flat stuccoed ceiling; there is a music-gallery, supported by pillars, forming a vestibule at the entrance, and at the upper end is a full-length portrait of the Foundress, and a very fine old semicircular oriel. The dimensions of this room are sixty feet in length, twenty-seven in breadth, and of proportionable height. The Library, which was rebuilt at the same time as the Chapel, is conveniently contrived as a study to the Master's Lodge, and is neatly fitted up with a good collection of books and a few MSS., the most valuable of which are a copy of Ovid's Metamorphoses and 8. Augustine's letters, both on vellum. Here is likewise a bust of Cromwell, executed by the celebrated Bernini, from a plaster impression, taken from Oliver's face after his death, and sent to Italy ; the countenance bears a great resemblance to the celebrated portrait by Cooper. This bust was presented to the College by the Rev. Thomas Martyn, formerly Professor of Botany. The Master's Lodge consists of several handsome apartments, and is one of the most pleasant in the University, communicating behind with an extensive well-arranged garden. Among other portraits, here is the celebrated original, in crayon, of Oliver Cromwell, 218 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITOBS TO CAMBRIDGE. by Cooper; this is esteemed the best likeness extant, and has been frequently copied ; it was presented to the Master, Dr. Elliston, for the College, by Mr. Brand Hollis, in 1 765, in this curious and mysterious manner : the Master received a letter stating that on a certain day two gentlemen would bring a portrait of Cromwell, but that he must not see them or say anything, but only stand at the top of the staircase and after re- ceiving it say "I have it." The Lodge also contains a good head of Dr. Hey ; a whole-length of William Wollaston, author of "The Eeligion of Nature"; and six excellent views of Venice, by Gwedyr, a pupil of Canaletti. The grounds belonging to this College are laid out with great taste and picturesque effect; on the north side is the Fellows' garden which is retired VIEW FROM THE FELLOWS' GARDKX. and pleasant, and has a spacious bowling-green occupy- ing the site of the great Church and Cemetery of the Franciscan monastery. TRINITY CHURCH. 219 This College will always be celebrated in the annals of English History from its connection with Oliver Cromwell, who entered here as a student on April 26th, 1616, being then in his eighteenth year; his name thus occurs in the College books " Oliverus Cromwell Huntingdoniensis admissus ad commeatum sociorum Aprilis vicesimo sexto, tutor e Mag Ricardo Howlei" (1616). This is followed by an interpolation in a different and later hand, speaking of him as " grandis impostor; carnifex perditissimus" fyc. Among other eminent names we meet with Seth Ward, Bishop of Salisbury, 1668. Archbishop Bramhall, 1660. Thomas Rymer, collector of the Fsedora, 1713. Dr. Wollaston, author of "The Religion of Nature," 1724. This College, which is one of the smallest in the University, consists of a Master, twelve Fellows, and a Mathematical Lecturer ; there are upwards of twenty scholarships and several exhibitions. The number of Undergraduates ranges over forty, and of members on the boards under one hundred and fifty. Gross income about 5,400. Pursuing our route southwards we soon arrive on the right-hand side at A LARGE and handsome edifice, cruciform in plan, with a lofty tower and spire at the west end, these and the porch are of the decorated style, the rest of the Church is perpendicular ; the most striking feature 220 HAOT3-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. being the lofty transepts, which have the rare arrange- ment of two tiers of fine perpendicular windows on PULPIT IN TRINITY CHUECH. the east side. The present chancel was erected in 1830 in the place of a much smaller one with a vaulted stone roof. The interior of this fine Church was most wantonly mutilated in 1851 by the destruction of the magnificent stone arches which opened into the PETTY CURY. 221 transepts, and replacing them by the present "huge sprawling substitutes constructed of brick and plaster." This Church was for nearly sixty years the sCene of the ministrations of the Rev. Charles Simeon, during whose time the present Gothic stone pulpit was put up ; a tablet to his memory is erected in the chancel; the only other monument of interest is one to Sir Robert Talbor or Tabor, an eminent physician, who died in 1681, he was the first to make use of Jesuits' bark in cases of fever. The pious and learned Bishop Jeremy Taylor was a native of this parish, but there is some difficulty in identifying the site of the house in which he was born. Continuing onwards, the next street we come to bears the singular name of PETTY CURY, which is derived from "Parva Cokeria" the little or petty cookery, the name by which it was designated in the 14th century ; the Visitor should turn up this street a short distance to notice, on the left-hand side, two fine old medigeval half timber houses with high peaked gables and very richly ornamented fronts, presenting a great contrast to the street architecture of the 19th century; a little farther on, the third archway to the left opens to the FALCON INN, an ancient mediaeval hostelry, the oldest in Cambridge, it still retains its quaint and picturesque open gallery which is carried round the exterior of the second story. Retracing our steps, just at the end of Petty Cury, is the modern 222 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITOKS TO CAMBRIDGE. at S. tot, WHICH was rebuilt on the old site in 1843, from designs of Mr. Poynter, in the poorest and most un- satisfactory modern perpendicular style ; there is scarcely any chancel and the interior is surrounded on three sides by large galleries. The chief interest attaching to this Church is that it contains the only memorial to the celebrated navigator Captain Cook; his widow and two sons lie buried here, the former surviving her husband more than fifty years, and dying in 1835 at the advanced age of ninety-four; the tablet relating to Captain Cook is within the altar rails against the north wall, there is a design sculptured at the top of the tablet emblematical of naval discovery, and below there is a small shield bearing a globe and a star with the motto, 'Nil intentatum reliquit.' Immediately opposite this Church is THE beautiful entrance gateway of which is the last of these fine structures that we shall meet with in our route; this College was founded four years be- fore S. John's, and by the same munificent lady; the gateways of the two Col- leges are very similar, this being rather the smaller and built entirely of stone ; CHRIST'S COLLEGE. The Porter's Lodge is under the entrance gateway to the left. CHRIST'S COLLEGE. 223 the carved work is very rich, and elaborate and consists of Lady Margaret's arms and supporters, crowded roses and portcullises, and numerous groups of daisies or " margarettes" as they are called in the inventories of the Foundress. This College arose out of an Hostel called God's House, which had originally been settled near Clare Hall, and endowed by William Byngham, Eector of S. John Zachary, London, in 1442 ; but was removed hither by Henry VI. in 1446 to make room for the building of King's College. In this form it did not exist long or attain any importance, for it never con- sisted of more than a proctor and four scholars, and in 1505 the Lady Margaret, whom we have before mentioned as the Foundress of S. John's College, obtained a license from her son Henry VII. to change its name to Christ's College, and to endow it for a Master, twelve Fellows, and forty-seven Scholars. Edward VI. added another Fellowship ; and two others have since been founded by Sir John Finch and Sir Thomas Baines. The west front of this College retains little of its ancient character, as it was recased with stone in the 18th century, the entrance gateway alone being spared. Through this gateway we are conducted into the first Court, which is about one hundred and forty feet long by one hundred and twenty feet in breadth, it contains the Chapel, Master's Lodge, and Combi- nation-room at the north-east corner; the Hall is at the south-east, and the Library on the west side, and the rest of the Court is occupied by dwelling- rooms ; it has gone through the same process as the exterior of the College, all the old and picturesque 224 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. features being obliterated under the monotonous 18th century stone facing; the manner in which the inner front of the gateway has been altered to harmonize with the rest of the Court, if it were not a cause of much regret would be almost ludicrous. At the south-east corner is the entrance to the second or tree Court ; on the right of which is a range of buildings with a gothic elevation, appropriated to students, erected in 1822; and on the east a hand- some edifice of stone said to have been designed by Inigo Jones. It is one hundred and fifty feet in length, and was built in 1642. The Chapel is about eighty-five feet long, twenty-seven broad, and thirty high, and is paved with marble; it was erected in 1506, but retains few of its old features; the east window contains a representation of the Cruci- fixion in old painted glass, recently inserted ; over the Altar is a painting of the Descent from the Cross, and within the rails is a fine brass to Dr. Hawford, Master, 1582. On the north side of the Altar is an elaborate monument of white marble, with two medallion por- traits, by Joseph Catterne, erected to record the memory and friendship of Sir John Finch and Sir Thomas Baines, who were educated together at this College. Sir John died at Constantinople, whither he had been sent on an embassy ; his body was brought to England in 1682, and interred here by his friend, who survived but a short period, and was buried in the same vault. On the east wall of the Chapel has been lately erected a simple tablet of white marble to the memory of Joseph Mede, B.D., Fellow, Henry More, D.D., Fellow, and Ralph Cudworth, D.D., Master, who for the retreat of a College refused considerable preferments, and here CHKIST'S COLLEGE. 225 led a life of Christian contemplation, charity, and useful- ness. There are also numerous other memorials to members of the College, and a brass to Edith Fowler, the "gentlewoman" of the Foundress, and her husband ; a fine old brass eagle-desk has been restored to its former beauty and freshness, and adds much to the adornment of the Chapel ; at the west end is an ancient full-length portrait of the Foundress on panel. The Hall is a neat room, forty-five feet long, twenty- seven broad, and thirty high ; containing a good por- trait of the Foundress, kneeling, over which are her arms handsomely carved and emblazoned. In the Combination-room is another portrait of the Foundress, a half-length, on board, and also a fine whole-length of Dr. Paley, and portraits of Dr. Kaye, Bishop of Lincoln, late Master ; Dr. Covel, Master ; Dr. Lynford, and John Milton. The Library contains about nine thousand books, among which are some ancient MSS. and many curious and valuable works, particularly a splendid copy of the Nuremberg Chronicle in Latin, printed in 1494. Some of the books were a gift from the pious Foundress, especially one richly bound in hogskin, with gilt bosses and clasps and her arms on the sides, the leaves are of vellum, but they have never been written on. This College possesses some beautiful old plate which belonged to the Foundress, consisting of a quart cup of silver gilt weighing upwards of 42 oz. ; a pint cup also of silver gilt, weighing 30 oz. ; two exquisite salt cellars engraved with the Beaufort badges, and a set of Apostle spoons. The Garden of this College is very pleasant and tastefully laid out, it contains a good bowling-green, Q 226 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. THE BATH. CHRIST'S COLLEGE GARDEN. a summer-house, and a cold Lath ; it is a special object of attraction to Visitors, for here is the celebrated mulberry-tree, which was planted by MILTON, when a student at this College. The trunk is much decayed, but the damaged parts have been covered with sheet lead ; it is also banked round with earth covered with grass and carefully propped up, and every means taken to preserve such an interesting relic: though so ancient it is still very vigorous and produces excellent fruit. From the south-east of this garden a beautiful view is obtained, through the foliage, of lung's College Chapel and other buildings. CHBIST'S COLLEGE. 227 MILTON'S MUI.BKKRY-TKEK. Eminent Men: John Leland, the celebrated Antiquary, 1552. Hugh Latimer, Bishop of Worcester, martyred 1557. Hichard Bancroft, Archbishop of Canterbury, 1610. Q2 228 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Joseph Mede, the learned writer on Prophecy, 1638. Frances Quarles, Author of the " Emblems," &c., 1644. JOHN MILTON, 1674. Dr. John Lightfoot, the learned Divine and Hebraist, 1675. Dr. Henry More, the eminent Philosopher, 1687. Dr. Ralph Cudworth, Master, 1688. John Sharp, Archbishop of York, 1714. Beilby Porteus, Bishop of London, 1809. Archdeacon Paley, Author of "The Evidences," 1805. The Earl of Liverpool, Prime Minister, 1828. This Society consists of a Master, fifteen Fellows, and fifty-four Scholars. There are also four Divinity Studentships, founded by C. Tancred, Esq., worth 107. 8s. per annum each, and tenable till the M.A. degree is due. This ranks as one of the larger Colleges, the number of Undergraduates being about ninety, and of members on the boards upwards of three hundred and eighty. Gross revenue, nearly 10,000. Farther up the street, on the same side of the way as Christ's College, we come to the extensive front of WHICH, like Sidney, occupies the site of a dissolved monastery, for on this spot was founded early in the 13th century, a house of DnTnfmV.fl.TiH or Black Friars Preaching Friars as they were generally termed, and so gave to this street the name of Preachers' street in olden times. On the dissolution of monasteries this site was granted to Edward Ebring- ton, and Humphrey Metcalfe ; of whose heirs it was purchased by Sir Walter Mildmay. This distinguished * The Porter's Lodge is on the left-hand of the entrance. EMMANT7EL COLLEGE. 229 statesman was Treasurer of the household, Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Privy Counsellor to Queen Elizabeth ; he was one of the most eminent adherents of what were termed puritanical principles, and it was with the idea of establishing a nursery for the propagation of those doctrines, that in the year 1584 he obtained from the Queen a charter of incorporation for this College, which he founded and endowed for the maintenance of a Master, Fellows, and Scholars. The front of this CoUege facing the street is of con- siderable extent, consisting of a centre and two wings, it was erected from the designs of pp James Essex, F.S.A., and is 4 handsomely built of Ket- -*j ton stone, with a pedi- M ment in the middle, sup- ported by four columns of the Ionic THE STREET FRONT. order, the wings being raised a story higher than the centre; the arms of the College, a lion rampant, holding a chaplet, are on this pediment ; this occasioned two Greek lines from the learned Joshua Barnes, thus rendered by Dyer: "Thy emblems fair, and lion bold, Well pleased, Emmanuel's House, I see; If such a rank thy lions hold, What mighty things thy men must be ! " 230 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. We pass through an arcade into the principal Court; which is one hundred and twenty-eight feet long, by one hundred and seven broad; on the east side ABCADK UNDER THE PICTURE GAU.ERY. of this is an open arcade of eleven arches, over which is the picture gallery, and in the centre the west front of the Chapel ; the Hall, the Combination-room, and the Master's Lodge are on the north side; an archway at the south-east corner of this Court leads to a long range of buildings facing the east, built of red brick and stone, this seems to be a portion of the original foundation of Sir Walter Mildmay. That part of the original building which was on the north-west, was re-built about the year 1824, and with an additional new building on the north, completes a small second Court, the south side of which is formed EMMANUEL COLLEGE. 231 by the Hall, and the east by the Library. These later buildings are in the poorest style of modern gothic. For nearly a century the present Library was the Chapel of the College ; as embodying puritan notions it was never consecrated, and pointed north and south ; when other ideas became ascendant the present Chapel, standing east and west, was built from the designs of Sir Christopher "Wren, and finished in 1677. It is a handsome stone building of the Corinthian order, and has a rich west front crowned by a small cupola ; the interior is eighty-four feet long, thirty broad, and twenty-seven high, and is handsomely floored with marble ; the ceiling is richly ornamented with stucco, and the stalls, altar- screen, and the whole internal fittings are of the best oak and of rich and costly classical design. The altar is adorned with a fine painting of the Prodigal Son, by Amiconi, and there is a very fine collection of altar-plate; at the west end is a hand- some gallery, containing an organ, now disused. In the cloister, which is consecrated for burials, there are several memorials for members of the College. The Hall, which stands on the site of the Church of the Black Friars, is a very fine room. It is furnished with a music-gallery, and has a handsomely stuccoed ceiling, and two lofty oriel windows, opposite each other at the upper end. Here is a good painting of Sir Wolstan Dixie, the founder of two Bye Fellow- ships and two Scholarships; another of Sir "Walter Mildmay, the Founder, and others connected with the Society. The Combination-room, which joins the Hall, is handsomely fitted up, and contains good portraits of the Founder, and of William Dudley, Esq., 1681, by Lely. 232 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. The Library, which was the old College Chapel, is situated in a small back Court. It contains two hundred and eighty -five valuable MSS., and a collec- tion of twenty thousand books, chiefly Classics and Divinity. There are many which are scarce and valuable, particularly a copy of Cicero's Offices, printed by Faust, in 1465 ; it formerly belonged to Prince Arthur, brother of Henry VIII., and has his arms pourtrayed in the title-page. Also an edition of the Aldine Aristophanes, 1498, which was presented by Dr. Parr. The Master's Lodge is commodious, and has attached to it an extensive picture gallery, one hundred feet in length, carried over the cloisters, which contains a very fine collection of portraits. The following appear to be the most curious : Sir Walter Mildmay, the Founder, with these words on it, "By Vansomer, setat. suse 66, anno Dom. 1558, Virtute non ~Pi" Sir Anthony Mildmay, Knt., by D. My tens, the dress is very singular ; a full-length of Thomas Holbech, D.D., Master, 1675, in a surplice and hood, with his arms; Sir Francis Walsingham; Archbishop Sancroft, sitting at a writing-table, with his arms and motto, Rapido contrarius Orli, by P. P. Lens; Mr. Francis Ashe, a benefactor, half-length, by Dobson; Ralph Symons, the architect, half-length, a curious painting; John Fane, Earl of Westmoreland, by Romney ; the cele- brated Dr. Eichard Farmer, formerly Master, by Romney; the late Dr. Parr, a copy, but well executed; Charles Jackson, Bishop of Koldare, by Gainsborough ; Sir William Temple, said to be by Sir Peter Lely ; and Mr. Hubbard, by Gainsborough. There are also a great many curious historical and other EMMANUEL COLLEGE. 233 prints, and several of the best productions of George Vertue. This College possesses a magnificent Founder's cup of silver gilt with a cover, fifteen and a-half inches high, richly and most elaborately ornamented after the style of Benvenuto Cellini, to whom it is ascribed. A representation of this fine art-treasure is given in the Memorials of Cambridge. The Society has also a rich and miscellaneous collection of plate, presented by various Fellow-Commoners during the last two hundred years; also Dr. Parr's pipe, tobacco box, and stopper, the former of wood set in silver. The Gardens are pleasant and extensive, containing a bowling-green and a cold bath. In the Fellows' garden is a very fine cedar of Lebanon, and in the meadow to the east of the first Court an ornamental sheet of water. Eminent Men : William Bedell, Bishop of Kilmore, 1642. Joseph Hall, Bishop of Norwich, 1656. William Bancroft, Master ; Archbishop of Canterbury, 1693. Matthew Poole, Author of the " Synopsis Criticorum," 1679. Sir William Temple, Statesman and Essayist, 1700. William Law, Author of "The Serious Call," 1761. Richard Hurd, Bishop of Worcester, 1808. Dr. Samuel Parr, 1825. This College consists of a Master, twelve Fellows, and twelve Foundation Scholarships; the number of Undergraduates is upwards of ninety, and of members on the boards nearly four hundred. Kevenue above 6,500. Crossing the road on leaving Emmanuel we proceed down the street opposite, here we soon come to the 234 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. CORN EXCHANGE, an unimposing structure, erected in 1842 at a cost of 1,735. The curious multangular building, entirely lighted from above, close to this, is ERECTED in 1833 at a cost of 3,220; it contains a very valuable collection of Anatomical preparations, THE ANATOMICAL MUSEUM, SHEWING THE CORN EXCHANGE. wax models, and rare skeletons, in the latter it is particularly rich, and possesses amongst others very fine skeletons of the Cape Buffalo, the great Ant-eater, OLD BOTANIC GARDEN. 235 Hippopotamus, Elephant, Rhinoceros, Giraffe, Ostrich, Boa constrictor, &c. ; these are arranged upon the ground floor, and are rather too cramped for such a noble collection ; the galleries are devoted to anatomical preparations, and, for obvious reasons, are not allowed to be seen by the public, but there is free access to the interesting and beautiful series of skeletons, so far as is consistent with their security. One of the skeletons here is that of a medical gentleman, the ashes of whose heart are preserved in a small bronze urn with the following inscription beneath it: "The ashes of the Heart of DR. JAMES J. O'CONNOR, pre- served by Dr. Macartney, in respect for the memory of the man, who, freed from superstitious and vulgar feelings, be- queathed his body for the honourable purpose of giving to others that knowledge which he had employed for the benefit of his fellow-creatures." Here are also preserved casts taken after death from the faces of Charles XII. of Sweden, Sir Isaac Newton, Pitt, Pox, and Perceval. Adjoining this Museum is the site of the OLD BOTANIC GARDEN, a piece of ground containing nearly four acres which belonged to the monastery of Augus- tine Friars; it was purchased, at an expense of 1,600, and made over to the University in 1762 by Dr. E. Walker of Trinity College, and continued the Botanic Garden for upwards of eighty years, when owing to its inadequate size and confined position, caused by the great increase of buildings round it, it was removed to an admirable situation which had previously been secured by the University in 1831, at the southern entrance to the town, which we shall shortly come to ; 236 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. upon this old site, as before stated, p. 113, the Uni- versity is about to erect spacious museums, lecture- rooms, and professorial residences. On the opposite side of the road the wooden gates in the long wall form the temporary entrance to THE last in our route, and the most recent collegiate foundation in either University; previous to its establish- ment Sidney Sussex, founded 1596, was the latest in Cam- bridge, and Worcester College, 1714, the most modern in Oxford. This derives its existence from Sir George Downing, Bart., K.B., of Gamlingay Park in this county, who, by will dated 1717, devised several valuable estates in the counties of Cambridge, Bedford, and Suffolk, to his nearest relations, Sir Jacob Q-arrard Downing and his three sons, with remainder to their issue in succession; and in case they all died without issue, he devised the estates to trustees, who were to found a College within the precincts of this University, to be called Downing College. The testator died in the year 1749, and his property descended to Sir Jacob, who, on the death of his sons without issue in his life-time, became sole inheritor, and at his decease in 1764, left his possessions to his lady, including the estates devised by Sir George Downing, which were then claimed by the University for the use of the proposed College. " The Porter's Lodge is at the north east corner of the Quadrangle. DOWNING COLLEGE. 237 The validity of the original will immediately became a subject of legal inquiry, and after many years' litigation, was at length established; and the Charter for the incorporation of the new College having been approved by his Majesty, the Great Seal was affixed to it by Lord Chancellor Loughborough, on the 22nd of September, 1800. The trustees immediately sought a proper situation for the new College, and at length obtained for the purpose its present site, then known as S. Thomas's Leys, containing about thirty acres. The first stone of Downing College was laid, with great solemnity and state, by the Master, Dr. Annesley, attended by the University in procession, on the 18th of May, 1807; the following inscription, engraved on a brass plate, was let into the foundation-stone : COLLEGIVM . DOWNINGENSE IN . ACADEMIA . CANTABRIGIJE GEORGIVS . DOWNING . DE . GAMLINGAY IX . EODEM . COMITATV . BARONETTV8 TESTAMENTO . DESIGNAVIT OPIBVSQVE . MVNIFICE . IN8TRVXIT ANNO . 8ALVTIS . M.D.CC.XVH REGIA . TANDEM . CHARTA . STABILIVIT GEORGIVS . TERTIV8 . OPTIMVS . PRINCBPS ANNO M.D.CCC. HMC , VERO . ^IDIFICII . PRIMORDIA MAGISTER . PROFES80RE8 . ET . SOCII POSVERVNT QVOD . AD . RELIGIONIS . OVLTVM JVRIS . ANGL1CANI . ET . MEDICINE . 8CIENTIAM ET . AD . RECTAM . JWENTVTIS . INGENVJE DISCIPLINAM . PROMOVENDAM FELICITER . EVENIAT. This College was opened in May, 1821, when Under- graduates were admitted to reside. 238 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. THE MASTER S LODUE. So much of this College as has been hitherto built, has been executed after the designs of Wm. Wilkins, Esq., M.A., in the Grecian style of architecture. It is to consist of one spacious quadrangle, and is in- tended to be entirely faced with Ketton stone. Those parts of the east and west sides of the square which have been already completed, contain the Hall, the Combination-room, the Master's Lodge, the residences of the two Professors, and apartments for the Fellows. The Master's Lodge and the Hall form the wings of the principal or south front, and are adorned with porticoes, &c. of the Ionic order. The centre building of this front will comprise the Chapel and Library; the re- mainder of the quadrangle will be appropriated to the apartments of the students. The buildings already erected have cost above 60,000, and we fear will at once strike the Visitor as being quite unworthy of the large sum they cost, of the spacious grounds they occupy, and of the purpose for which they are in- DOWNING COLLEGE. 239 tended; the building fund is now rapidly increasing, and in a few years will probably suffice for the com- pletion of the quadrangle; it will then rest with n 'the powers that be" either to carry out the original inappropriate design, or adopt one more in accordance with our present improved taste in collegiate archi- tecture, and more worthy of this fine site. In a room in the Lodge is contained a collection of books, manuscripts, fossils, and antiquities, bequeathed to the College, in 1813, by the late Mr. John Bowtell, of this town. Among the manuscripts is a History of the Topography and Antiquities of Cambridge, pre- pared for publication by the donor. The grounds have been too recently laid out to assume the finished and picturesque appearance of the venerable grounds and gardens we have been visiting, this time alone can effect, but there is every prospect that in the course of a few years they may become as pleasing and attractive as any in the University. This College, when completed, will consist of a Master, two Professors, one of the Laws of England, and one of Medicine, sixteen Fellows, (two of whom are to be clerical,) two Chaplains, and six Scholars. At present, only the Master, Professors, three of the Fellows, and the Chaplains, are appointed, for the purpose of taking possession of the estates, administer- ing the revenues, and superintending the studies of the College. The appointment of the remaining Fellows is reserved until the completion of the buildings; the number of members belonging to the College is con- sequently very small, consisting, including a few Undergraduates, of about sixty in all. The gross revenue of the Downing estates is upwards of 7,000. 240 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Leaving this College by the walk leading from the west side of the avenue, and passing up Fitzwilliam Street, we arrive at the spot from whence we started opposite the Fitzwilliam Museum; and now, turning to the left, we soon reach WHICH stands back at some distance from the road with an ample lawn and walks in front, enclosed by ADDENBROOKt's HOSPITAL. iron palisades. This, one of the best managed institu- tions of the kind in the kingdom, was founded by John Addenbrooke, M. D., an eminent physician, formerly Fellow of S. Catharine's Hall, who, in the year 1719, left about 4,000 to erect and maintain a small Physic Hospital ; but the money (after the purchase of the ground and the expenses of the building) being insufficient for the support of it, an Act of Parliament was obtained to make it a General Hospital. It was opened on a comparatively small scale at Michaelmas, 1 766, but it now contains upwards ADDENBEOOKE'S HOSPITAL. 241 of one hundred beds, and the number of patients annually cured and relieved is upon an average about one thousand. The expenses of late years have been nearly 2,700 per annum, for defraying which about one half is derived from the permanent funds, and the remainder from donations, private subscriptions, and annual sermons in many of the Churches in the town and county. Since its foundation this Hospital has received many legacies, and considerable donations; and in 1813 a bequest of 7,000 in the 3 per cent, consolidated annuities was left by Mr. John Bowtell, a bookbinder and stationer in Cambridge, for the purpose of en- larging the building, and extending its benefits to such patients as were not included in its original design. In consequence of this noble bequest, the Hospital was greatly enlarged in 1823 by the erection of two wings, and at the same time the colonnade in front was added to the original building. Certificates of attendance on the practice of this Hospital are recognized by the University, by the Royal Colleges of Physicians and Surgeons, and by the Society of Apothecaries in London. Continuing our course we pass on the right two pleasant terraces, the erection of which has of late years much improved this southern entrance of the town : S. PETEK'S TEEBACE so named from the College on whose property it stands, SCEOPE TEEEACE from being built on land given to Gonville Hall by Lady Anne Scrope in 1501. At the opposite corner, where the roads meet, on the left-hand side, is a singular structure long known as E 242 HAND-BOOK FOB, VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. THOUGH the prevalent notion that it was erected at the entire charge of this Cambridge worthy is certainly untrue ; he however bequeathed seven leys of pasture land towards its perpetual maintenance, and 10 for the purpose of making it half a yard higher, so that his name is deservedly associated with it; it formerly stood on the Market Hill, where it was erected in 1614, and, when superseded by ; the present conduit, was re- moved to this site in 1856; it is a good example of the quaint style of the period, and well deserving of that praiseworthy reverence for the past which has preserved to us this relic of Jacobean Cambridge. Hobson's name is so peculiarly connected with Cambridge that we cannot pass him by without a brief notice. He was born about 1544, and, besides being an extensive carrier, he was the first person in the kingdom who adopted the system of letting out saddle horses for hire, and seems to have established a very flourishing HOBSON'S CONDUIT. UOBSON'S CONDUIT. 243 business in this line among the students of the Uni- versity. He rendered himself famous by making it an unalterable rule, that every horse should have an equal portion of rest as well as labour, and would never let out one except in its turn, hence the celebrated saying "Hobson's choice, this or none."* He died on January 1st, 1631, and though he had attained the patriarchal age of 86, his death was popularly attri- buted to his being obliged to discontinue his journies to London while the plague was raging in Cambridge. Milton alludes to this in the two humourous epitaphs he wrote upon him, one commences Here lieth one, who did most truly prove, That he could never die while he could move. The other we give entire : Here lies old Hobson ; Death hath broke his girt, And here, alas ! hath laid him in the dirt : Or else the ways being foul, twenty to one, He's here stuck in a slough, and overthrown. 'Twas such a shifter, that, if truth were known, Death was half glad when he had got him down ; For he had, any time this ten years full, Dodg'd with him betwixt Cambridge and The Bull. And surely Death could never have prevailed, Had not his weekly course of carriage failed ; But lately finding him so long at home, And thinking now his journey's end was come, And that he had ta'en up his latest inn, In the kind office of a chamberlin Show'd him his room, were he must lodge that night, Pull'd off his boots, and took away the light : If any ask for him, it shall be said, Hobson has supp'd, and 's newly gone to bed. There is a good explanation of this proverb by Sir Richard Steele in the Spectator, No. 509. B2 244 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. This conduit stands at the end of an artificial water- course, which is very ornamental to this entrance to Cambridge, and was formed at the expense of the Town and University in 1610, it commences at a place called the Nine Wells, about three miles distant, and affords an unfailing supply of excellent water; from the spot where this structure stands it is diverted by various channels into the town, and supplies the new conduit on the Market Hill, the baths, &c. in the gardens of Emmanuel and Christ's Colleges, and those bright and fresh streams of running water on each side of Trumpington and S. Andrew's. Streets, which always strike Visitors as such unique features of Cambridge. We continue our route along the raised path by the side of this water-course, up the very pretty road shaded by beech trees on each side, till we come to the entrance of W$ 0tsmt daote. THIS piece of land, containing upwards of thirty-eight acres, was, as before stated (p. 235), obtained by the University in 1831 at a cost of 3,441, but in con- sequence of the ground being under lease for a term of years, some time elapsed before the trustees had legal possession of it so as to be enabled to pre- pare it for its destined use. By repeated grants from the University twenty-one acres of the ground have now been brought into cultivation ; a noble and flourishing Arboretum has been planted, walks have been laid out, and the collection of the Old Botanic Garden has been removed to this new site, and re- arranged, with numerous additions, in conformity to the HOSPITAL OF S. ANTHONY AND S. ELIGIUS. 245 Natural System of De Candolle, so as to be easily studied by those who desire to obtain a knowledge of Botany. In the midst of the grounds is an extensive range of green-houses, forming a large square, containing many rare and curious plants, among which may be seen the coffee plant, sugar cane, india rubber tree, sensitive plant, date palm, tea plant, papyrus, &c. ; from the centre, on the west side, rises a lofty octagonal palm house devoted to the flora of the tropical regions. A large ornamental piece of water has lately been formed for the cultivation of aquatic plants, on the north side of which, sheltered by the mound, is a Fernarium, and in the hollow a small artificial morass for rearing bog plants. Though this garden is at present in its infancy it is in a very flourishing condition, and, under its present able management, will soon be one of the best scientific gardens in the kingdom. It is very liberally thrown open to the public; the green-houses may be visited between two o'clock and four, and the garden up to six o'clock in the summer and till dusk in the winter. Leaving the garden by the back entrance on the north side, we emerge upon some modern almshouses with high pitched roofs, in the Elizabethan style ; these form the HOSPITAL OF S. ANTHONY AND S. ELIGITTS, the oldest eleemosynary foundation in Cambridge, having been founded about the year 1361 by Henry de Tangmere a burgess of the town; their original position was opposite Scrope Terrace at the top of Trumpington Street, thence known as "Spital House 246 HAND-BOOK FOB VI8ITOES TO CAMBRIDGE. End," but as they projected considerably into the roadway they were pulled down and rebuilt on this site in 1852 at a cost of 1,075. The apex of each gable is crowned with a good statue of the Patron Saints, S. Eligius or Eloy with his hammer and pincers and horse's leg, S. Anthony with his bell and tau crutch and the boar at his feet. These almshouses accommodate six poor women, who also receive a small weekly payment. A little farther on, the third street to the right conducts those who may wish to visit it to the EOMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL, a small and plain but admirable building in the early English style, erected from the designs of the celebrated A. W. Pugin ; it is dedicated to S. Andrew and was consecrated in April, 1843. Those who do not care to see this will continue on to the end of the street and then turn to the right, the wall which here bounds the left-hand side of the road encloses the grounds of Downing College, and the space not built upon is intended to form the grand entrance to that College when completed; we continue our route, crossing straight over when we come to where four roads meet, and soon arrive at the beautiful open space known as f arker's |m No other Town in England possesses, within five minutes' walk of its centre, such a fine healthy piece of ground devoted to the recreation of its inhabitants as we have here, containing about twenty acres; it was acquired of Trinity College in 1613, in exchange for a piece of ground called Garret Hostel Green, CHAPEL OF THE BURIAL GROUND. 247 PARKER'S PIECK, SHEWING THE TOWN GAOL. lying to the west of that College, and now occupied by the Library, part of the New Court, and the walks; it was up to that time held under a lease by Edward Parker, cook of the College, and has thus handed his name down to posterity. Here are held the contested elections for Town and County, cricket matches, Volunteer exercises, &c. The pseudo-castel- lated building on the south side is the TOWN GAOL, erected about 1828 from designs by Mr. W.'M. Brookes, architect, at a cost' of 25,000, it is very conveniently arranged internally. Just beyond the south-east corner of the Piece stands the CHAPEL OF THE BURIAL GROUND, an elegant and appropriate building with a graceful spire, built from the designs of G. G. Scott, Esq., it stands in the midst of a cemetery ten acres in extent, purchased by public subscription for the purpose of relieving the overcrowded intra-mural burial grounds, which were ordered to be closed by an order in Council; this ground was consecrated by the Bishop of Ely in 1848, 248 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. but the Chapel was not finished till nearly ten years afterwards, the spire being erected at the cost of the Rev. Dr. Whewell, the munificent Master of Trinity College ; it is a good example of modern early decorated architecture, and in the burial ground are several well designed monuments and tombstones, evidencing the re- cent improvement of taste and feeling in these matters. We now retrace our steps to the corner where we entered Parker's piece, and turning to the left pass S. JjN' THE second of the two Churches erected (see p. 210) to relieve the overgrown parish of Barnwell. This in some respects is rather an improvement upon Christ Church, though the less said about its architecture and arrangement the better; it was erected by sub- scription in 1842 from designs by Mr. Poynter. Some distance farther up the road, on the right-hand side, is the newly erected ALBERT BENEVOLENT ASYLUM for decayed tradesmen and others, subscribers ; it contains twelve sets of rooms, and a board room surmounted by a small spire in the centre; it is built of white and coloured bricks very effectively arranged, and the entire elevation is appropriate and picturesque. Half way between this building and S. Paul's Church is the road leading to our ill-arranged Station, where, hoping our Visitor has been amused and interested in his route through Cam- bridge, we wish him God-speed and heartily bid him FAREWELL ! 0f WE hope our Visitor will not think, that in thus deferring to the last our notice of the good Town of Cambridge, we are wanting in respect for our ancient and loyal borough; our only reason for doing so is that Visitors come to see the University of Cambridge rather than the Town; and moreover, with the exception of a few Churches and as many old houses, there is really very little in the latter to attract the sight-seer or interest the antiquary; what there is worth seeing we have pointed out in our route, and so it only remains now to gather together a few of the principal fragments of its past history, and to add a brief notice of its present appearance and condition. We have already alluded in our accounts of Cam- boritum and the Castle Hill (pp. 191 and 195) to the traces of the early British and Roman occupation of the Town; of its subsequent history up to the time of the Norman Conquest very little is known except that it was several times plundered and burnt by the Danes ; it became the scene of important military operations during the reign of William the Conqueror, owing to its contiguity to the Camp of Refuge in the Isle of Ely, which was the last stand made by the Saxon against the Norman, and so obstinate was the resistance, that in 1069 the King was obliged to come in person to Cambridge Castle with a powerful army, in order to reduce the insurgents. In 1088 the Town 250 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. and County were laid waste with fire and sword by Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury, who was then in arms in support of the cause of Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy, eldest son of the Conqueror. In 1 1 74 a great fire happened, which, besides doing other extensive damage, injured most of the parish churches, and entirely destroyed that dedicated to the Holy Trinity. Frequent civil discord followed these events, and the Town suffered greatly from plunder, disputes, and anarchy during the reigns of the Plantagenet Kings. In 1267 Henry III. commenced fortifying the Town to protect it against the rebellious Barons ; he caused a ditch to be made surrounding it on those sides where it was not protected by the river, and partially built a wall which was soon destroyed by the insurgents; he also erected two gates, one near Pembroke College called Trumpington gate, and the other close to Christ's College called Barnwell gate, all traces of these have long since disappeared, but the ditch remains, and is still called the "King's ditch, though all but a very small portion is covered over ; this seems to be the only attempt ever made to fortify the town. In the year 1381 a serious tumult arose between the Towns- men and the University. The Townspeople assembled at their hall ; and having chosen and obliged James de Grantcestre to act as their leader, they committed the most flagrant acts of violence. They broke open the doors of Corpus Christi College, and carried away the charters, jewels, and other goods belonging to that foundation. They obliged certain of the Masters and others to renounce, under pain of death, and destruction of their dwellings, all the privileges that THE TOWN OF CAMBRIDGE. 251 had ever been granted them. After this, they broke open the University-Chest in S. Mary's Church, and taking out all the records, burnt them, with the other papers, in the market-place. Many other acts of violence accompanied these proceedings ; and the mis- guided crowd, to ensure their own safety, forced certain of the principal Members of the University to sign a bond, which vested its entire future government in the burgesses of the Town; and contained an acquit- tance from all actions which might be brought against them on account of the present tumults. Soon after- wards, however, this usurped power was wrested from their hands by Henry le Spencer, Bishop of Norwich, who entered with some soldiers. Several of the principal leaders were imprisoned during life ; the Mayor was deprived of his office ; and the liberties of the Town, granted by King John and Henry III., were declared forfeited, and part of them bestowed on the Chancellor of the University. The Charter was however renewed to the Corporation in the following year, but with abridged privileges: and it was also afterwards con- firmed by Henry IV. in 1404; again by Henry VI. in 1423 and 1437, and lastly by Henry VIII. in 1548. During all this time and for nearly a century after, little occurred relating to the history of the Town which claims notice here, if we may except the strife which from time to time broke out between the two bodies. It never however reached its former height. In 1574 the Town was visited by the Plague, and again more severely in 1630, when it commenced in April and lasted till the end of the year, this occasioned the business of the University to be suspended, and all the students retired to their respective homes. The 252 HAOT-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. number of persons who fell victims to its ravages amounted to between three and four hundred. During the continuance of the malady, the assizes were removed to Koyston. In 1643, Cromwell, who had twice represented the Town, took possession of it for the Parliament, and put in a garrison of one thousand men. In August, 1645, Charles I. appeared before it with an army, but de- parted without making an attack. In March, 1647, Sir Thomas Fairfax, then General of the Parliamentary army, visited the Town, and was received with great honour at Trinity College, and entertained with a stately banquet by the Corporation. Cambridge has frequently been honoured with royal visits; we have already mentioned William the Con- queror's stay here; King Stephen was here in 1139; John in 1216; Henry HL in 1265, 1267, and 1270; Edward I. in 1294; Edward HL in 1328; Eichard II. in 1388 (when he held a parliament here) and 1390; Edward IV. in 1461 and 1463 ; Eichard HI. in 1484 ; Henry YII. in 1485, 1491, 1498, and 1506; Henry VTII. in 1522; Queen Elizabeth in 1564; James I. in 1614, 1615, 1623, and 1624; Charles I. in 1628 and with his Queen in 1632; Charles IE. in 1671 and 1681; William III. in 1689; Queen Anne and Prince George of Denmark in 1705; George I. in 1717; George II. in 1728; and lastly Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort in 1843 and 1847. On many of these occasions the royal guests were splendidly entertained by the University at Trinity College, and it was in former times customary for the Corporation to present them with fifty broad pieces of gold. From the restoration of the Stuarts to the present THE TOWN OF CAMBRIDGE. 253 time we have scarcely anything to record in the history of Cambridge likely to interest the Visitor beyond^what we have mentioned in our perambulation through its streets ; the most important recent event, considering its results, was the great fire which occurred on the Market Hill* in September, 1849, and which, by effecting a partial clearance, induced the Town Council to procure an Act of Parliament to enable them to purchase the whole of the property lying to the east of Great 8. Mary's Church, for the purpose of en- larging the Market Place, which at that time was shaped like the letter J and far too narrow and confined for the increasing wants of the town; but, by the removal of this large block of houses, it now forms one of the most spacious and commodious market squares in the kingdom. This improvement included the removal of the old conduit, which we have mentioned in p. 242, and which now stands at the corner of the Trumpington road, it formerly occupied a site consider- ably to the south of the present NEW CONDUIT, which was erected in 1856 in the centre of the Market place, and is supplied with a copious and unfailing stream of excellent water, brought as before stated (p. 242), from the nine wells at Shelford by means of the water-course on the Trumpington road; it is a graceful structure of the decorated Gothic style, but is rather deficient in height, it is ornamented with the armorial bearings and statuettes of our principal Cambridge worthies ; to the south of this is the TOWN HALL, a plain and rather dismal looking edifice, erected * Hill is a local term in Cambridge, and does not hers necessarily mean an elevated spot but is applied to an open space ; thus we have Senate-house hill, Hog hill, Peas hill, &c. 254 HAND-BOOK FOB VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. after the designs of James Essex, F.S.A., and opened for public business in 1784; it has long been sadly inadequate for its purpose, owing to the increased population of the Town, and in 1860 a design was determined upon, which includes the entire but gradual removal of the present structure, and the erection of a block of buildings to contain, in addition to a spaciotis Assembly Boom, the Police Court, Stamp Office, Post Office, &c. The large Assembly Eoom is just completed and supplies what has long been keenly felt as one of the chief wants of Cambridge ; accommodation for the School of Art and Free Library has also been provided ; but the remainder of the contemplated improvements are deferred till certain leases fall in. The Mwket is abundantly supplied with every kind of provision, but what principally arrests the attention of strangers is the peculiar appearance of the far-famed Cambridge butter, which is here sold apparently by the yard, though it is in fact a pound rolled out to that length; a particularly convenient practice for Cambridge, as it renders the butter extremely easy of division into small lengths, called sizes, which are used in the Colleges; for a similar reason in Oxford the pounds of butter are made into pats which are marked with radiations like a coach wheel, and thus are readily divided into portions. We may here mention that Cambridge is rich in eleemosynary foundations, and has nine sets of alms- houses, the Victoria Friendly Societies Asylum, and the Royal Albert Asylum ; all devoted to the reception of poor, infirm, or decayed persons, providing them with a comfortable refuge for their latter days, and some of the conveniences and comforts they may have THE TOWN OF CAMBRIDGE. 255 been accustomed to in the time of their prosperity; full particulars concerning these may be found in the Memorials of Cambridge. There is also a well endowed Free Grammar School, situated behind Corpus Christi College, founded by Dr. Stephen Perse, Senior Fellow of Caius College, in 1615. The scholars are one hundred in number, and are to be natives of Cam- bridge or the neighbouring villages of Chesterton and Trumpington, and are educated gratis. Situated on a vast level and embosomed in lofty trees, Cambridge is not seen to advantage at a distance, and indeed would scarcely be noticed at all, were it not for the conspicuous but somewhat monotonous turrets and pinnacles of Kong's College Chapel, which have been rather flippantly compared by Mr. Euskin to a dining table turned upside down; and even under the most favourable aspect the view is sadly wanting in that grand succession of lofty towers and spires for which Oxford stands unrivalled. The interior appearance of the Town too is generally disappointing, and below what might be anticipated, but it is rapidly improving ; and those who recollect what Trumpington Street was in the days "when George the third was King," and see it now adorned with handsome terraces, the Fitzwilliam Museum, the Pitt Press, the exterior fagade of Corpus Christi, and the grand front of King's, bear enthusiastic witness to the marvellous improvement effected in this part of Cambridge during the last forty years; impor- tant alterations for the better have also recently been made in the approaches to Trinity and S. John's Colleges, in the Market Hill enlargement, in Sidney and S. Andrew's Streets, and other parts of the Town. 256 HAND-BOOK FOR VISITORS TO CAMBRIDGE. Although the district round Cambridge is so very flat the Town does not by any means occupy a low position ; on the contrary, the vast plain on which it stands slopes gradually away on the north to the sea coast, with scarcely an intervening elevation; its situation is therefore a very healthy one, and as it is well drained, and stands for the most part upon gravel, its sanitary statistics are very favourable; ague which was very prevalent before the improved drainage of the fens is now almost extinct, and cholera has never once made its appearance in the Town: from the summit of the Grogmagog Hills, about four miles to the east of Cambridge, a good view may be obtained of this ex- tensive plain, which will well repay the Visitor, and if he should choose a fine day, he will acknowledge that there may be grandeur and beauty in a land- scape, even when devoid of bill and dale, forest and lake, "winding shore and deepening glen." We have now only to add that Cambridge extends about a mile-and-a-half north and south, and about two miles east and west, that it consists of fourteen parishes, and by the census of 1861 contained twenty- six thousand three hundred and sixty-one inhabitants. Page Addenbrooke's Hospital . 240 Albert Asylum .... 248 Alcock, (Bishop) Rebus of 203 All Saints' Church . . .161 Alms Houses 254 of S. Anthony and S. Eligius .... 245 Anatomical Museum . . 234 S. Andrew the Great, Church of 222 the Less, Church of . 212 Ashton, Dr., Rebus of . . 167 Assessor of "University . . 8 Astronomical Observatory 197 Bacon, Lord, Statue of . 142 Barnwell 210 Priory 212 Barrow, Dr., Statue of .142 S. Benedict's Church . . 67 Botanic garden .... 244 old 235 S. Botolph's Church . . 47 Bridge street 182 Browne, Sir W., Epigram by 108 Bucer, Martin .... 100 Burial ground .... 247 Bursars of Colleges ... 12 Butter at Cambridge . . 254 Butt Green 210 Byron, Lord, Statue of . 152 Caius College 127 Camboritum, Roman Sta- tion of 191 Cambridge Town, Origin of 183 History 249 Page Cambridge Market . . . 254 Royal visits to . 158, 252 appearance and situa- tion 255 Population . . . .256 Castle Hill 195 S. Catharine's College . . 55 Ceres, Statue of . . . .105 Chancellor of University 7,15 Chapel at Stourbridge . .214 of Burial Ground . . 247 Roman Catholic . . 246 Chaplains of Colleges . . 12 Christ Church . . . .210 College 222 Churches : All Saints' 161 S. Andrew the Great . 222 the Less .... 212 S. Benedict's .... 67 S. Botolph's .... 47 Christ Church . . . .210 S. Clement's . . . .183 S. Edward's .... 96 S. Giles's 191 Holy Sepulchre . . .179 Holy Trinity .... 219 S. Mary the Great . . 97 the Less .... 37 S. Michael's . . . .133 S.Paul's 248 S. Peter's 193 Clare College 120 Clare Hall piece . . . .124 Clarke, Dr. E. D., Busts of 106, 209 S. Clement's Church . .183 Codex Bezau . .110 258 INDEX. Colleges, first plan of . the several ranks in government of . . Colleges, The: S. Peter's . Page , 3 , 9 . 11 . 30 Clare 120 Pembroke ..... 38 Gonville and Caius . .127 Trinity Hall . . . .113 Corpus Christi .... 59 King's 69 Queens' 47 S. Catharine's .... 55 Jesus 201 Christ's ...... 222 S. John's 164 Magdalene . . ; . .184 Trinity 134 Emmanuel 228 Sidney Sussex . . . .214 Downing 236 Commissary of University 8 Conduit, Hobson's . 242, 253 the new 253 Trinity 145 Cook, Capt., Monument of 222 Corn Exchange Corpus Christi College . Costume of University . Council of Senate . . County Courts and Gaol Cromwell, O., at Sidney 234 59 12 6 194 219 Bust and Portrait of . 217 Deans of Colleges ... 1 1 Disney marbles .... 29 Dobree,K,ev.P.P.,Bustof 141 Downing College . . .236 grand entrance to . 246 Ducking stool .... 183 S. Edward's Church . . 96 Emmanuel College . . .228 Epigrams . 103, 108, 118, 229 Erasmus's walk .... 96 Esquire Bedells .... 8 Fair, Midsummer 210 Page Fair, Stourbridge . . .213 Falcon Inn . . . . .221 Fellows of Colleges ... 9 Fellow- Commoners . . 10, 14 Fitz william Museum . . 17 Free school 255 Geological Museum . . .118 George I. and II., Statues of 102 S. Giles's Church . . .191 Glory, Statue of and Epi- grams on 103 Gogmagog Hills, view from 256 Gonville and Caius College 127 Graduates, the several orders of 9 Great Bridge 183 Guildhall 253 Halls, when founded . . 3 changed to Colleges . 113 High Steward ..... 7 Hobson the noted Carrier 242 Epitaphs on, by Milton 243 Hobson's Conduit . 242, 253 Holy Sepulchre, Church of 179 Hospital, Addenbrooke's . 240 of S.Anthony and S. Eligius 245 Hostels, Account of . . 2 Private 17 Houses, Old, in Petty Cury 221 Jesus College 201 S. John's College . . .164 Bang's College .... 69 Chapel 76 Bridge 95 Ditch, the .... 250 Hall 135 Parade . . 69 Lecturers Librarian Library, the Fitzwilliam Pepysian . . . 12 8 28 188 INDEX. 259 Page Library, University , . .104 Madingley Hall .... 199 Magdalene College . . .184 Maltby, Bp. Bust of . . 30 Margaret, Lady, Rebus of 164, 222 Market Hill 253 S. Mary's Church, Great . 97 Little .... 37 S. Mary Magdalene Chapel at Stourbridge .... 214 Master's Court, Trin. Coll. 160 Mesman collection of paint- ings 26 S. Michael's Church . .133 Michael House . . . .135 Midsummer Common . .210 Milton's Mulberry Tree . 227 MSS 153 Epitaphs on Hobson 243 Mineralogical Museum . 119 Moderators 8 Museum, Anatomical . . 234 Fitzwilliam ... 17 Geological . . . .118 Mineralogical . , .119 Newton, Statue of ... 141 Number of Members of University ...... 16 Observatory 197 Officers in the University 7 Orator, the Public ... 8 Origin of the University . 1 Parker's, Abp. MSS Parker's Piece . S. Paul's Church Pembroke College Pensioners . . Pepysian Library S. Peter's Church College 30 Terrace ..... 241 Petty Cury 221 Philosophical Rooms . .163 . 63 . 246 . 248 . 38 11, 15 . 188 193 Pitt Press 45 Statue of ... 103 Plague at Cambridge * 251 Population of Cambridge 256 Person, Bust of ... 141 Private Hostels ... 17 Proctors 8, 16 Pro-Proctors ib. Professors 9 Public Orator .... 8 Pythagoras's School . . 196 Queens' College 47 Registrar 8 Roman Catholic Chapel . 246 Round Church . . . .179 Royal Visits to Cambridge 158, 252 Scholars 11 Schools, Public . . . .112 Pythagoras's . . . 196 Scrope Terrace . . . .241 Sedgwick, Prof. Bust of .149 Senate- House .... 100 Sidney Sussex College . 214 Sigean Inscription . . .149 Simeon, Rev. C., Bust of . 107 Sizars 11 Smythe, Prof. Bust of . . 30 Somerset, Duke of, Statues of 102, 151 Sphere at Pembroke College 42 Statutes granted to the Uni- versity ...... 4 Stewards of Colleges . . 12 Stourbridge Chapel . . .214 Fair .... 213 Students, Various Classes of 10 Syndics 8 Tage Mahal, Model of . . 27 Tawdry, origin of . . .210 Taxors 8 Taylor, Bp. Jeremy . . .221 Tennyson, Bust of , . . 149 260 I>*DEX. Town of Cambridge . . 249 Gaol ...... 247 Hall 253 Trapp, Dr. Epigram by . 107 Trinity College .... 134 Bridge ..... 157 Church . . . , . 219 Hall 113 Street 134 Trumpington Street . . 255 Tutors of Colleges ... 11 Undergraduates, several Classes of . . . . . 10 University Church ... 97 Costume .... 12 Library 104 Page University, number of its Members 16 Officers 7 Origin and Progress of 1 Present State and Con- stitution 6 Press 45 Via Devana 182 Vice-Chancellor . . . 7, 16 Warwick Vase .... 104 White, H. Kirke, Monu- ment 161 Wood, Dr., Statue of . .166 Woodwardian Museum . 118 BOUND BY | J. P. GRAY 10 GREEN ST. CAMBRIDGE UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY A 000 093 460 4