STACK ANNEX THE TMOJLJLEE'S GUI1DE, A new and complete practical treat ite ON THE ART OF TROLLING OR FISHING FOR ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS CUTS OF HOOKS, BAITS, TACKLE, fcc. To which is added the best method of BAITING AND LAYING LINES FOR LARGE EELS, BY T, F. Author of the Angler's Guide. The Pike's my joy of all the scaly shoal, And of all FISHING-INSTRUMENTS the TROLL. Vide the Angler a Poem.Canto VIII. Hontton ; Printed by CARPENTER & SON*. 16, Aldeate High Street; and soM for tlicAmhor by T. TEGG, Bookseller, ill, Cheapiide ; and at all Fishing Tackle Shops. Price 3*. Entered at Stationers' Hall. 1820. THE only work written expressly on the art of taking Jack and Pike by Angling, is called the complete Trailer, wrote and published about the Year 1682, by the Rev. R. NOBBS; ttnd forasmuch as that healthy and delightful branch of Pishing, termed Trolling, is followed with avidity, and prefered by many Anglers to every other mode of Angling, and the Art itself having received many improvements since Mr. NOBBS wrote on the subject. It has been suggested to me, that a treatise on Jack fishing, written by a modern practical Troller, would be very acceptable to the lovers of Angling in general, in consequence of such opinions and suggestions (in which I fully coincide) and having had much practice and experience in every method pursued in taking both Jack and Pike with the angle; with the advantage also of a residence, for several years, near one of the best Rivers in England for Trolling, and further emboldened by the very favourable reception my former writings on Angling have received, I have again presumed to offer my opinions and instructions as a 2067012 Tl. PREFACE. Guide to those who may be desirous of learning how to take Jack and Pike in a fair, pleasing and sportsman-like manner ; and in order to prevent the possibility of mis- understanding the direction given for baiting the hooks, $c. J have illustrated those directions with cuts, executed under my own immediate inspection, and have also endeavoured to convey my instructions in so plain and concise a manner, that the juvenile or inexperienced Trailer may clearly and promptly understand them ; and I doubt not, if those directions are assiduously put in practice, the novice may be soon enabled to say, I seldom to the Rivers went, But either Jack or Pike I took. and, 1 alto flatter myself, many who have had some practice in the Art of Trolling, may find in this work observations en the seasons and weather proper for Trolling j how to cast the baited hook in search, and divers other matters connected with and relative to Jack and Pike fishing worthy their notice and attention. T. F. 1820. CONTENTS. CHAP I. Prefatory Remarks on Trolling 1 , with hints to Anglers respecting health, &c. with cuts. CHAP. II. The Gorge Hook described, with ample directions how to bait the same, illustrated with cuts. - CHAP. III. Double and single Hooks for Live-Bait fishing described, how to bait the same, &c. with several cuts of hooks baited. CHAP. IV. Various hooks for Snap fishing described, with full directions how to bait them, illustrated with cuts. CHAP. V. Trolling lines, Winches, Runners, Winders and Traces described, with directions how to choose or select the same, with cuts. CHAP. VI. Rods proper for Trolling described, with directions how to cast the baited hook, to mend a broken rod, &c. illustrated with cuts. CHAP. VII. Baits proper for Trolling described, with directions how to select the best or most killing for every season of the year. CHAP. VIII. The Troller's Day. Sport described, accompanied with full direc- tions how to play, kill, land and unhook Jack or Pike, illustrated with several cuts. CHAP. IX. Live-Bait fishing fully described; also the method of using snap hooks variously baited; the seasons and weather proper for Trolling pointed out, &c. with u r.ut of Live-Bait fishing. Vlll. CONTENTS. CHAP. X. Observations and Remarks on the different ways practised in Troll- ing or fishing for Jack and Pike, and on the nature, habits, &c. of the said fish, with a glossary of Technical Terms used among Trollers. CHAP. XI. Ample directions for the fitting, baiting and laying chain and other lines for large Eels, illustrated with cuts. CHAP. XII. Observations on the laying, taking up, &c. of Eel lines ; how to dry, bait, clean and preserve the same pointed out; with an Appendix, containing abstracts from the laws relative to fishing, angling, &c. THE CHAP. I. Prefatory Remarks on Trolling, AND ON JACK, PIKE, &c. 3. C No. 1, LIVE BAIT KETTLE. No. S, BOOK OR CASE FOR TROLLING TACKLE. No. 3, TELESCOPE-HANDLE LANDING HOOK. Lucium Pisiculo Inescare. Broiling; for Jatft or JL HE art of Jack fishing, or taking Jack or Pike with a hook, line and rod, is properly termed Trolling, from the Latin Lucium Pisicnlo Inescare; but this branch of angling is generally divided by anglers under the three B THE TROLLER S GUIDE. following heads, viz. Trolling. Live-Bait Fishing and Snap Fishing. Trolling, in this limited sense of the word, means taking Jack or Pike with the gorge hook ; Live-Bait Fishing, when a floated line is used ; and Snap Fishing, when the angler so places his baited hooks that immedi- ately he feels a bite he strikes with mueh force, and ge- nerally throws over his head, or drags the Jack or Pike on shore, instead of playing his victim till he is exhausted. (I shall fully explain those different modes of angling in Chap. X. with observations on the advantages and merits of each,) Trolling, I consider a valuable branch of fisluog, afford- ing the angler several months amusement during the year, and it may be practiced without danger to the health, when every other mode of angling ceases to be either profitable or prudent to follow; for as the winter ap- proaches fish seldom rise to the surface of the water, but leave the sharps, shallows and scowers, for the more deep and still parts of rivers, or other waters ; then the fly fisherman may lay by his fly tackle, for his occupation is gone until the vernal quarter is well advanced. Barbel, Carp, Tench, Perch, Eels, Gudgeon, and Dace, also refuse the choicest bait the wily angler can offer them when the winter commences, though Chub and Roach will certainly take a bait very freely at bottom during the whole winter, yet the angler, who is subject to the cramp, or rheumatic affections, or is advancing in years, will TO MAKE BOOTS, &c. WATER PROOF. 3 (or should) not hazard his health by sitting or standing in one place by the river side for several hours together in the winter months, which he certainly roust do if b expects to kill a good dish of Roach; but when properly cloathed, especially about the feet and legs, and will take the trouble of dressing his boots or shoes with the follow- ing composition, he will seldom get wet or even feel dampness after being exposed for many hours in the rain or swampy places. Take half a pound of mutton suet, five ounces of bees wax, cut into small pieces, to which add an ounce of black rosin, powdered, simmer the whole in a pipkin over a moderate fire, till all is melted and well mixed. When you wish to use it, render it liquid by melting, and rub it well into the leather with a brush. (Note. This mixture appears yellow on the boots or shoes, and if that is objected to, put among it half an ounce of powder blacking); he may then indulge himself with a few hours trolling whenever the water is fit for the purpose, because trolling is strong exercise, from moving continually from one part of a river or water to another further on ; and if the fish are well on the feed, and he kills two or three brace of heavy Pike, the angler will find, that from the exertion* he has made in casting the bait for playing, kill'ng and landing those fish, and the carrying them home, nearly approaches to labour, and as labour is generally considered conducive to, or rather the price of health, the troller has but little to fear on B 2 4 THE TROIXER'S GUIDE. that score, but may allow himself the pleasure of killing a few brace of Jack or Pike for his own table, or for the gratification of supplying friends. Having thus cursorily discoursed on the nature of Troll- ing, or Jack Fishing, &c. I shall now proceed to instruct the reader how to choose hooks, lines, rods, and other tackle, fit for the various methods practised by anglers who excel in the art of Trolling or Jack Fishing, with full and clear directions how to bait the hooks, accompanied with cuts or engravings to illustrate the same. GORGE HOOK DESCRIBED. CHAP. II. The Gorge Hook, and how to bait it. THE gorge hook consists of two, or what is called a double eel hook; to the shank of this hook is fastened about two or three inches of brass wire twisted, the end of which forms a loop, to this loop about nine inches of gimp is tied, the other end of the gimp is turned and tied into a loop, to be ready to loop on the trolling line, either to a swivel or by a slip or loop knot. To make this hook sink, or of a sufficient weight to be cast to any distance, the shank of the hook and part of the brass wire is neatly covered with lead, some of a long octagon shape, others of a round or barrel form, (I prefer the latter) and I also remove about a third of the lead from the brass of those hooks which I find kept ready for sale at the fishing-tackle shops, because I have found, when the lead lays nearly the whole length of the bait-fish, and especially if a Bleak or thin Roach, that when the Jack strikes it, his teeth pierces through the flesh and touches the lead he then immediatly drops the bait; now by removing a part of the lead as above directed, the re- mainder the angler will find to be sufficient for sinking, &c. his bait, and it will lay at the bottom of the throat or only a little lower, and as Jack generally seize their prey by THE TROLLER S GUIDE. or across the middle, in such case his teeth seldom comes in contact with the lead, and he then, without fear, retires to his haunt and soon pouches the whole. Having described the nature of a gorge hook, we will now instruct the reader how to bait the same. Notice the cut beneath this. No. 1,. GORGE HOOK BAITED. No. 2, GORGE HOOK. No. 3, BAITING NEEDLE. To bait the gorge hook take a baiting needle, and hook the curved end of it to the loop of the gimp, (to which the hook is tied) then introduce the point of the needle into a dead bait's mouth and bring it out at the middle of the fork of its tail, the lead will then lie hid inside the bait's belly, and the shank of the hooks will be inside its mouth, the barbs and points outside and turning upwards. Now to keep the bait steady on the hooks, tie the tail-part of it, just above the fork, to the gimp with white thread, silk or cotton; but if a needle and thread is passed TO BAIT THE GORGE HOOK. 7 through the flesh of the side of the bait, about half an inch above the tail, so as to incircle the gimp and then tied, it is a neater and better way than tieing around the outside. The baited hook is now complete to fix to the trolling line, to go in search of Jack or Pike, but it is necessary the reader should know that angler's use fish for baits when trolling with the gorge hook, varying in size from one to four ounces in weight, therefore it is proper to have an assortment of the different sizes of gorge hooks, that you may always have a hook proportionate to the size of the bait fish your judgment leads you to select, for you must notice, that the barbs and points of the hook should not project from the sides of the bait's mouth, but should lay very close, because if the points, &c. project, they are very likely to be felt by Jack or Pike when they are in the act of changing the position of the bait fish in order to pouch it; if they do, they will then immediately blow it out of their mouth, and also when casting, dipping, drawing, and spinning the bait, those projecting parts of the hook frequently catch hold of weeds, &c. by which misfortune the hook is drawn from its position, and the bait fish eithet much mutilated or entirely spoiled. There is some difference of opinion among anglers in respect to sewing up the mouth of the bait fish, but after the hook has been placed in a proper manner, and the tail-part tied or sewed to the gimp, I think there is little 8 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. occasion for stitching up the mouth, but I have killed many Jack and Pike both with and without the mouth being stitched or sown up ; in regard to cutting off the fins of the bait fish, I am decidedly of opinion it is to the angler's advantage to cut them all close away, because the bait will then spin or twirl more freely in the water when sinking or being drawn up, then when the fins are left on, and further, the bait fish will last longer, for when the fins are left on they frequently catch or hang among weeds, and when this occurs the bait fish is generally torn, or deprived of part of its scales, and of course soon ceases to be an enticing bait; this is of great consequence to the troller, who may be short of baits, and also far from a place where he can replenish his bait box. HOOKS FOR LIVE-BAIT FISHING. 9 CHAP. III. Single Hooks for Live-Bait Fishing, and how to bait them, with Directions how to tie or whip Hooks to Gimp* FIG. 1. When a single hook is used, it is baited in the two fol- lowing ways ; pass the point and barb of the hook through the two lips of the live-bait fish, on the side of the mouth, which does not distress the bait as it would do by passing them through the middle or nose part of the fish. The other way is, to pass the point and barb of the hook un- der the back fin of the bait fish, and bringing it out on the other side, see the cut above ; be careful when you pass the hook under the back fin that it does not go too deep, so as to touch or injure the back bone, for if it does the bait fish cannot swim strong, and will soon die. Note When you use a single hook for Jack Fishing, in the way above described, prefer those of the number 4 or 5. It 10 THE TROLtER'S GUIDE. is necessary the troller should know how to tie or whip on the hooks himself, in case of accident, therefore I shall direct him how to do it ift as plain and concise a manner as possible. To tie a hook to gimp, take some strong fine floss silk (that sort used by whig makers is also excellent) well wax the silk with shoemaker's wax, then take the hook and hold it between the thumb and finger of the left hand, and whip round the shank, from the bend to the top, with waxed silk, then lay the gimp on the inside part of the shank of the hook and whip it close and tightly down, carrying your whipping till nearly opposite the point of the hook, then turn back the point of your silk and hold it down with your thumb, the silk will then be in a loop, which you must pass or lap over three or four times the end you hold under your thumb, now take that end and draw it gradually until the lappings which was passed over lay close and firm, and then cut off the spare waxed silk ; this is called the hidden or finishing knot, and will not draw. It is proper, lastly, to rub a little hog's lard or suet over the whipping, which makes it smooth, and also helps to preserve it. Note. This is the best way I can describe tieing or whipping on a hook, though, probably, not so intelligible as might be wished ; but any experienced angler, or the persons keeping fish- ing tackle shops, can learn the novice in two or three mi- nutes how to whip or tie on a hook, which he would do well to avail himself of on the first opportunity. HOOKS FOR LIVE-BAIT FISHING. 11 Double and Treble Hooks far Lwe- Bait Fishing, and how to bait them. FIG. 2. Provide two hooks, either brazed together or made on one shank, (I prefer those brazed together, because they lay closer to the bait) tied to about eight or nine inches of gimp, with a loop at the end of the gimp, or you may tie two single hooks back to back on a piece of gimp, instead of the double ones, then take a baiting needle and hook the curve end into the loop of the gimp, now enter the point of the baiting needle just under the skin of the live- bait fish, close to the gills, guiding it upwards, and bring it out close to the back, at the extremity of the back fin, and draw the gimp after till the bend of the hooks are brought to the place where the needle entered, and all is ready to fix to the trolling line, (see the cut above.) Note Use hooks of such a size that the points and barbs do not pro- ject over the belly or shoulder of the bait fish, (unless you intend them as a snap, see Live-bait Fishing, Chap. IX.) 12 THE TROI/LER'S GUIDE. that when a Jack or Pike seizes the bait he may not feel them. Hooks double as above described, of various sizes, are kept ready for sale at all the principal fishing tackle shops. The reader will notice that the gimp and shank of the hooks is to lay under the skin of the bait-fish, and there- fore be careful to carry the baiting-needle cautiously, so as not to wound the bait's flesh, and it will feel very little inconvenience froi the operation, but will swim nearly as strong in the water with the hooks attached to it as without. Observe, by casting in and drawing out a bait so hook'd several times, the skin of the bait-fish is apt to strip downwards, and in consequence the hooks loose their proper place ; to prevent which, I use a No. 10 hook tied to about an inch of gut, with a loop to the end of it, pass the loop over the gimp that is tied to the double hook, and bring it to the bends of them, now when the hook is baited, take hold of the small hook and run the point and barb into the bait-fish's under lip; this prevents the skin from stripping down, as before alluded to, and the bait remains also much livelier, and tempting to a Jack or Pike. This method of baiting hooks is a most killing way in Live-Bait Fishing, and to be preferred to every other. Again observe the cut to illustrate this description. Note. When the double hook above described is used, the sizes SNAP HOOKS FOR LIVE-BAIT FISHING. 13 No. 4 or 5, will be found most proper, when tied to gimp ; but when tied to twisted gut, those of the size No. 6, should be preferred. Treble Hook, Five Hooks and Spring Snap. FIG. 3. To fit this treble hook, take two hooks that are made on one shank, about halfway up the shank tie a smaller size hook, a No. 7 or 8, (see the hooks in the cut above) now tie the whole to about nine inches of gimp, with a loop at the end, and all is ready to be baited; having a live bait fish, enter the small hook beneath its back fin, (avoiding touching the back bone) and bring the point and barb out on the other side, the two large hooks will then lay close to the side of the bait, (see the cut above.) Some anglers add two more hooks to the three above described, by tying two hooks made on one shank to the other on which the three hooks are tied, so as to allow the hooks to hang down the other side of the bait fish; other anglors tie four single hooks, No. 2 size, to four pieces of gimp, each piece 14 THE TROLI/ER'S GUIDE. about an inch long, then tie those four short pieces to about nine inches of very stout gimp, and in the middle of those four large hooks they have one of the size No. 7, tied to a piece of gut, the top of which is tied among the four large ones, (see the cut.) The small one is to hook through the baits back fin, as already described, and the large hooks will hang loose two on each side of it. Spt*ing Snap-. If the angler chooses to use a spring snap with three hooks, (as represented in the cut above) in preference to the plain, or as some term them the dead snap, (terms synonymous meaning a snap without a spring) which I by no means recommend, he has only to follow the directions given on baiting the dead or plain snap. Note. The engraver has not drawn the hooks high up enough, for it is not proper the large hooks should hang below the bait fish's belly. TO BAIT THE BEAD HOOK. 15 The bead hook is formed of two single hooks tied back to back on nine incites of ginop, or you may purchase them made of one piece of wire; between the lower part of the shanks is fastened a small link or two of chains, having a piece of lead of a conical form, or like a drop- bead, (from which it takes its name) linked by a staple to it (see the cut above) : the lead is put into the live- bait's mouth, (a Gudgeon is the best bait) which is lightly sewed up with white thread, the bait will still live and swim very strong for many hours ; but I cannot re- commend this hook, because I have frequently found when I have had a run, the fish has generally dropt the bait, instead of pouching it, which has arisen from the hooks hanging loose to each other, and thereby creating 1 an alarm in the Jack or Pike; and again, those loose hooks frequently hang to weeds, &c. on the whole, I think the bead hook is not worthy a place among the troller's. tackle, therefore shall not again make mention of it. 16 THE TROIXER'S GUIDE. CHAP. IV. Snap Fishing, and how to bait the Hooks. Dead Snap with two or Four Hooks. Take about twelve inches of stout gimp, make a loop at one end, at the other end tie a hook, size No. 2, and about an inch further up the gimp tie another hook of the same size; procure a drop-bead lead, which the fishing- tackle shops keep fixed to a small ring or two ; now to bait the hooks proceed as follows, put the loop of the gimp under the gill of a dead bait fish, and bring it out at its mouth, draw the gimp till the hook at the bottom comes just behind the back fin of the bait, and the point and barb pierces slightly through the skin of it, to keep the hook steady, then pass the ring of the drop-bead lead over the loop of the gimp, and fix the lead inside the SNAt HOOKS. 17 bait-fish's mouth, and sew the mouth up, (see the cut) and all is ready to fasten to the trolling line. If you add two more hooks to the two already described, you will then have a very killing snap ; to fit which, take a piece of stout gimp, about four inches long, and make a small loop at one end, and then lie two hooks of the same size and in the same manner as the first two; after the first two and the lead are in their places, and before the bait's mouth is sewed up, pass the loop of the short piece of gimp under the gill and out of the mouth of the bait, and draw till the hooks are in the same situation on that side as the other ; now pass the loop of the long piece of gimp through the loop of the short one, and draw all straight ; tie the two pieces of gimp together, close to the bait's mouth, and sew that up, or you may tie the short piece of gimp to the long one, instead of having a loop at the end (see the cut of four hooks) if you do so, you must pass the hooks first through the bait-fish's mouth and out at the gills, instead of in at the gills and out of the mouth, then slightly fix them through the bait's skin, just to keep them in their places, and when you feel a bite and strike, they clear themselves, and hook firmly into the Jack or Pike. 18 THE TROLLER'S GTJIDE. Dead Snap with a Gorge Hook, and Double Hook. To bait this snap, first introduce the gorge into the bait's mouth, the leaded part laying in its belly exactly as when you intend trolling with the gorge hook, (see gorge hook baited) ; then take a double hook, No. 4 or 5, which must be tied to a piece of gimp about three inches long, with a small loop at the end ; now take your baiting needle and enter the point of it in the bait's back, just where the back fin is, (but note it is the best way to cut off the said fin and every other fin) and bring it out at the tail; having first put the loop of the gimp, to which the hooks are tied, through the curve or eye of the baiting needle, draw the loop out at the tail of the bait, the hooks will then lay close over the bait's back one on each side. After you have placed the hooks properly, take the loop end of the gimp to which the gorge hook BEAD SNAP HOOKS. 19 is tied, and pass it through the loop of the gimp to which the other hooks are tied, draw all close to the bait's tail, and tie them very fast with waxed silk round the fish, just above the tail, and all is now complete to fasten on to your line. The superiority of this method of using a snap consists in all the hooks laying close to the bait, and also in the gimp and He coming from the tail instead ef from the mouth or back, whic.h is very material, for hooks so placed will allow the bait to appear more like a live fish swim- ming or spinning about in the water, than if it is hooked by the back fin or side, in which case much of the hooks are exposed, the gimp sticks up, &c. (see the cut above) over the bait-fish is represented the two hooks with the short piece of gut, and below the bait-fish the gorge hook, and in the middle the bait-fish with the hooks properly placed in it. Note. I always carry some double hooks tied to short pieces of gimp when I troll with a gorge, because when I find Jack will move and seize my bait but will not pouch it, I put on those back hooks and convert my gorge to a snap, which is done with little trouble or loss of time ; and of course when my bait is so altered, I strike immediately I feel a run, for the angler will find, during his practice, that after many hours troll- ing, and several runs, he cannot get a fish to pouch, a snap is then his only resource. c 2 20 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. Dead Snap with one Hook. To bait this snap take a long-shanked No. 1 hook and tie it to about twelve inches of strong gimp, then fix the baiting needle to the loop of the gimp, enter the point of the needle just below the end on the side of the back fin of the dead bait-fish, carrying it carefully just be- neath the skin, bring it out about a quarter of an inch before you reach the gill, then enter the needle under the gill of the bait fish and bring it out of the mouth, draw the gimp after until the bend point and barb of the hook lay on the bait as represented in the cut ; now take a bead drop lead, such as described in baiting a snap with four hooks,, in page 16, pass it over the loop of the gimp to which the hook is tied, and place it inside the mouth of the bait fish, and sew the said mouth up, and all is ready to fix to the trolling Ijne. Note. The lead is placed in the mouth of the bait to add to its weight, which enables the angler to cast his bait with more certainty to any par- SNAP HOOKS. 21 ticular spot, the gimp to which the hook is tied being directed to lay only just under the skin of the bait-fish, o that when the angler feels a bite, and strikes, the gimp then rips away, and enables the hook to fix firmly into either the Jack or Pike; but if it is carelessly placed too deep, when you strike, the hook gets fixed or nearly buried in the body of the bait instead of the Jack, &c. therefore recollect in baiting for the snap, where the hooks lay outside the bait-fish, that they are so placed as to easily clear themselves, so as they may get firm hold ef the prey. Barb or Spear Hook. The shank of this hook is loaded with lead : one end of it is like a dart or harpoon, the other end a single hook. Introduce the barb or dart end, into the bait's mouth, and bring it out near the tail ; the lead is then in the bait's belly, and the hook just within its mouth, which must be sewed up with some white thread. I have noticed this hook and given a cut of it, merely because they are become scarce, the hook being generally rejected by all xperienced trollers of the present day as not worth notice. 22 THE TROLLEY'S GUIDE. Dead Snap with three Hooks. This snap is fitted as follows ; take three hooks of the sire No. 2, and tie thefn altogether, back to back, firmly on one end of about twelve inches of strong gimp, let the other end be formed in a loop (see the cut) ; then provide a dead-bait fish, now take your baiting needle and hang the loop of the gimp to it, then enter the point of the needle in the vent of the bait (but do not penetrate too deep in the body of the bait) and bring it out at its' mouth, draw the gimp after until the hooks lay at the bait-fish's vent ; now pass over the gimp a bead drop-lead, and place it inside the bait's mouth, which must then be sewed up, and all is ready for fixing to the trolling line. Note. This snap should be baited with a large bait fish, either a Roach or Dace, say from six to eight ounces weight, and in extensive pieces of water, which contain heavy pike, (especially at the time when 'the weeds are Totten or gone) this snap so baited will be found effec- tive and worthy the angler's attention. SNAP HOOKS. 23 Dead Snap with Two Hooks. Fit this snap in the following manner; tie two hooks of the size No. 1 very firmly to about twelve inches of stout gimp, which should have a loop at the other end ; now take a baiting needle and fix it to the loop of the gimp, and enter the point of the needle into a large dead-bait fish's vent, (but do not penetrate too deep in its body, for when so and you strike, the hooks are somewhat confined and do not fix so firmly in Jack or Pike as if they laid nearer the skin, which is torn away with a strong jerk in striking) and bring it out at its mouth ; now fix the lead in the bait's mouth and sew the same up (as described in the preceding article, baiting with three hooks) and all is now ready to fasten to the trolling line. (See the hooks, and the same baited in the cut.) THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. Now having described various and as many hooks, with the best way to bait them for killing Jack and Pike, as I think are worth notice, I shall next direct the reader how to choose the trolling line, rod, winch, &c. also discourse on the nature of bait fish for Jack and Pike fishing, point- ing out the reason why a Gudgeon should be preferred (generally) to a Roach, Dace, or Bleak, for trolling with the gorge hook, or for Live-Bait Fishing ; also when Roach, Dace or Bleak, are useful baits, with full directi- ons how to select the same, in respect to size, and to keep them alive during a day's fishing, or to preserve those which are dead fresh and sweet when going a distance from home, either to troll with the gorge or Snap-Fishing; for which purpose, a proper bait kettle and box are recom- mended, with cuts of the same. TROLLING APPARATUS. 25 CHAP. V. Trolling Lines, Winch and Thumb Winders, Bank Runners, Traces, fyc. No. 1, MULTIPLYING WINCH. No. 2, BANK RUNNER. No. 3, THUMB WINDER. No. 4, TRACE WITH THREE SWAN SHOT. No. 5, TRACE WITH DIP LEAD. Trolling lines are made of silk, and also of silk and hair, or mo-hair of various lengths and strength, by plat- ting or twisting several strands together. There is silk lines, called India twist, sold at the fishing tackle shops, 26 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. and at some of the china shops, and other shops in London. This india twist may be bought of any length and degree of strength and fineness, at something less per yard, than what is manufactured in this country ; but it is much infe- rior in strength and value, because it is full of gum when you first purchase it, and after some little wear and tear the gum is gone, the line then soon untwists and becomes rotten, therefore very unfit for Jack and Pike fishing. The platted silk lines are the best for trolling, in every sense of the word, they are stronger than those which are twisted Let the twisted be made wholly of silk, or silk and hair, or rao-hair. Platted silk lines are also less inclined to kink or tangle than the twisted, which every troller knows is of some consequence, therefore my advice is to provide yourself with a platted silk line, (the colour immaterial) made of about eight strands, and in length from fifty to sixty yards. If you wish to make your line water-proof, dress it in the following manner ; lay the line in coils in a large tumbler or bason, and pour as much cold double boiled linseed oil on it as to cover the whole, let it lay a few minutes, then take the end last put in, and gradually draw all the line out of the tumbler or bason, and pass it through or wipe it with a piece of woollen cloth or flannel, which will make the surface smooth, and the whole line will be alike saturated with the oil. Hang the line up for a few days in<3ry air and it will then be fit for use. Note. Some trollers think this dressing a line causes it sooner to rot, but I am not of that opinion, I find a Hue so dressed is less likely TO DRESS THE LINE. 27 to kinkle or stick to the rod than those without it, and also that the dressed line passes quicker through the ring* when you make a cast, in consequence of its not imbibing much water, and from its being a little stiff; when choosing a winch, prefer one without a lock or stop, and also those which are made to tie on the rod, because you can tie on such to any size, joint, or rod, or have them let in a grove and fastened by brass ferrils, which is not the case with those made with a hoop and screw, for if the rod is too large to pass through the hoop, or the hoop too large for the rod, much inconvenience is experienced ; those made to tie on may also be fixed to the butt by brass fer* rels which the tackle makers provide ; some anglers keep then* line on a wooden thumb winder, (see the cut figure 3) and others use a bank runner (see the cut figure 2) for the same purpose, but I prefer a winch, because I have my line and rod more compact, and it enables me to troll over high sags, rushes, bushes, &c. which are often met with about the sides of rivers, and large pieces of water, and under the cover or shade of such places Jack and Pike are often found. The angler having provided himself with line, winch, &c. should now fit up some traces, (see the cut figures 4 and 5) or get his tackle maker to do it for him in the fol- lowing manner; take two pieces of gimp or trolling line, about ten inches each in length, and join them together Tery neatly and strong, with a box swivel, then tie on at THE TROI/LER'S GUIDE. one end of the gimp or trolling line a hook swivel, and at the other end make a loop of the gimp, observe the hook swivel should be made very strong, particularly the hook part of it, because in putting on and off the loop of gimp to which the hook or hooks are tied, anglers (from the hurry of the moment) sometimes use more violence than what is necessary, and besides when a heavy fish is hook- ed, much stress is laid on this swivel while killing it. When you use a live-bait for Jack fishing, and a float on the trolling line, and to which line you fix traces, those traces must be leaded so as to sink the float to a certain depth, for which purpose you may use a dip lead or three or four swan shots, the dip lead or shot should be fixed just above the hook swivel, as represented in the cut at the head of the chapter, (see cuts 4 and 5.) When troll- ing with the gorge hook or snap fishing with a dead baitj no lead is wanted on the tiaces, because the gorge hook is leaded on the shank, and all hooks that are used baited with a dead bait in snap fishing, have a drop lead attached to them, which may be seen by a reference to the cuts of them in chap. IV. I make it a rule always to have a spare trace or two in my tackle book ready fitted, of trolling line, gimp, and twisted gut, either for trolling, snap fishing, or live-bait fishing, that in case of accident, I may lose no time in re- pairing, &c. when at my sport, but leave that job for a TRACES, SWIVELS, &c. 29 rainy day, at home. In the summer months when the waters get low and bright, from a continuance of dry weather, I have found when I used traces fitted with twist- ed gut. instead of gimp and hocks also tied to twisted gut, that I have killed more Jack and Pike, either when trolling with the gorge, or when live-bait fishing, than I could if F used gimp; this you are to observe is only during the summer, when Jack and Pike are not much on the feed and the water very bright, they then seem shy of coarse tackle ; but not so in winter and spring, for then they are well on the feed, and the water generally some- what discoloured, at which time and seasons, I believe Jack and Pike would take a baited hook, if it was tied to deaths line or rope. Those, anglers who object to the trouble of fitting up or using traces, may certainly kill both Jack and Pike without them, by simply fixing their baited hook-link to the trolling line, either with looping or by a draw bow knot. The angler who uses the knot should be careful and examine his line frequently, because the drawing and undrawing the said knot soon injures the line, and at that part where much strength is wanted, therefore a few inches must be cut off the line before it is too much used, or the angler will probably lose a Jack or Pike with hooks, gimp, &c. Swivels and traces enables the troller to cause his bait to have a twirling or spinning mo- tion, which frequently stimulates a Jack or Pike to strike at it, and the play of the swivels also eases the stress on the rod while you are killing a heavy fish. Note, SO THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. If you Live-Bait fish for Jack or Pike with a floated line without traces, a dip lead is better than shot to sink the float, because the float is first put on the trolling line, then the shot below it on the said line, and when so done you cannot get the float off again without the trouble of re- moving the shot, for they will not pass through either the ring or cap of the float ; but if you use a dip lead it is put on the line and removed in an instant. Dip leads are made of a long barrel shape with a hole through them and are kept ready for sale, of various sizes, by most of the fishing tackle makers and shops in London : but if those dip leads are not easily to be met with, one cr two small pistol bullets, cast with a hole through them, will be found a good substitute, although they do not look quite so neat on the line as either split shot or dip leads. TROLLING RODS. CHAP VI. Rods proper for Trolling or Jack and Pike Fishing, and how to Troll without a Rod, with Directions how to mend a Broken Rod with Cuts. A good trolling rod should be made of the choicest stout and well-seasoned bamboo cane, in length it should not be shorter than fourteen feet, but sixteen is more de- sirable, if your tackle-maker can furnish cane every way fit for the purpose of striking true, and not too heavy ^ yet sufficiently strong. When trolling with the gorge, or live-bait fishing, a long rod is necessary, to enable the angler to drop in his baited hook over high sags, rushes, &c. and also if the water is bright, he should then keep as far away from it as he possibly can, which a long rod enables you to do, while dipping, casting, or spinning your bait, for if either a Jack or Pike see you, it is very rare indeed that he will then take your bait. And again, with a long rod you will be able to drop your baited book in some very likely place for a Jack or Pike to lay r 32 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. such as a small hole, division, or clear place, among a bed of weeds, in a river, or any other water, where there are many weeds : but if your rod is too short for that purpose, your baited hook frequently falls short when cast, or among the weeds instead of the open place, which you desire or wish it to fall into, in such case, Jack or Pike are alarmed, and your chance of getting a run (a run in Jack and Pike fishing is a bite) is lost, and frequently the bait is spoiled or much injured by catching or hanging to the weeds, you then have to bait your hook afresh, losing time, &c. from such mishaps, you are, perchance, sometimes near loosing your temper, forgeting that hope and patience support the fisherman. There is some difference of opinion among anglers about the number of rings necessary for trolling rods ; those who have their line on a thumb winder, or on a bank run- ner, seldom place more than two or three rings on their rod, and others have only one large ring at the top ; but if a winch is used, there should be a ring to every joint, ex- cept the butt, that is, fasten the winch to the butt, and let that joint be without a ring, and all the other joints, except the top to have a ring, each made of double brass wire, fixed so as always to stand out, and nearly large enough to admit the top of your little finger ; the top joint should have two rings, the top one nearly three times the size of the others, (see the cut) this prevents any obstruction to the line running, which is of material consequence. I have two VARIOUS TROLLING RODS. 3d tops to my trolling rod, which I always carry with me, in case of breaking one, &c. one is made very flexible with wood and a whalebone tip about two feet long, to this for strength and security I have a ring on the wood part as well as the large one at the whalebone tip, this top I always use when trolling with the gorge bait, or when fishing with the live-bait; the other top is made wholly of stout whalebone, about one foot long, this I only use when snap fishing, which it is well calculated for by its superior strength and stiffness. Those anglers who may object to have such large rings as I have described fastened on their rods, so as always to stand out instead of laying close to the rod, because they prevent the several joints packing one within another, and in consequence augments the bulk to be carried going to and from trolling, can have such rings, if they prefer them to those which lay close, fixed to metal ferrets, made to fit each joint of the rod, which they may carry in their pocket, and put them on or off at the commencement and leaving off trolling or Jack fishing, excepting the top joint, which with the rings on will pack in the but or largest joint of the trolling rod, or by using such rings and ferrels a Roach rod may be used for trolling, leaving out the weak top joint. Some anglers use a few small brass curtain rings sewed to loops of leather, and pass the loop over each joint of a stout walking-cane rod, made with long joints, and without rings, the rings hanging outwards, D 34 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. through which rings the trolling line runs; these leather loops are made in a similar manner to those which you may see in the fishing-tackle shops, passed over as the means of keeping together the several joints of hazel and other common fishing rods. Some few anglers troll without a rod, only using a poll or stick, with a forked top ; they carry their line on a bank runner or a hand winder ; after baiting the hook and let- ting out a proper length of line, they then pass the fork of the stick or poll under the line, about a yard above the baited hook, and cast out in search, and occasionally use the said fork to hoist the line over, &c. the high sags, rushes, or whatever else may impede their progress. This mode of Jack or Pike Fishing can be resorted to by an angler who may be at a water which promises sport, and he unfortunately is without a proper rod ; unless this hap- pens, I think few anglers would so troll or fish for Jack or Pike. Having discoursed, I hope, both plainly and sufficiently on hooks, lines, and rods, I shall now proceed to direct the reader how to select the best and most proper baits for trolling or Jack fishing, during the different seasons of the year; but I believe it will be best first to give him direc- tions how to repair a broken rod, in case of such an acci- dent occuring, especially while at his sport. THE BROKEN ROD. 35 Mending a Broken Rod. If you should have the misfortune to break your rod while fishing, repair it in the following manner : cut the broken ends with a slope, (see the cut) so that they may lay smooth and close together, then bind them together with some strong silk or twine, waxed with shoe-maker's wax, or you may use wax-ends such as coblers mend shoes with, begin to bind the fractured parts together, about two inches above the middle thereof, making the laps about a quarter of an inch apart, and continue so to bind two inches below the middle of the fracture, then whip or bind back again to the part at which you began, now bind or whip down again, keeping the lappings close together until you come to within four or five turns of the two inches below the middle of the fracture, now lay the fore-finger of your left-hand over the rod, (see the cut) then with your right-hand make four or five bows or hoops over the finger of your left-hand with the silk or whatever n 2 36 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. you are mending the rod with, and pass the end of it be- tween the under side of your left-hand finger and the rod, (see the cut) now draw away (gradually) your left-hand finger, and with your right-hand finger and thumb take hold of the second from the top of the bows or hoops and draw it tight, which will make the first bow or hoop lay close and secure over the broken rod, then draw the third which will secure the second, and so on till all lays smooth and close to the last turn, to fasten and fix which, take the end of the waxed silk or twine, which lays under the bows or hoops just described, and draw it upwards till all lays smooth and tight, then cut off the spare part and all will be fast and strong This way of mending and fasten- ing off, without tying, is called the hidden or invisible knot. If you mend a broken rod at home, spread a little softened shoe-maker's wax on each slope of the broken rod, before you bind the parts together, and it will in- crease the security of the broken parts. When you have occasion to mend a small joint of a rod, then a bodkin or a disgorger should be used, instead of the left-hand finger, be- cause the bodkin or disgorger does not require that the bow or hooped wipping should be so large as if passed over the finger, and in consequence thereof are with less difficulty drawn and confined to their proper places ; when the bod kin or disgorger is used, you pass the waxed silk or twine through the eye of either of those instruments, which enables you to draw from under those bows or hoops before described. HOW MENDED. This is the best way I can describe or direct the angler how to repair a broken rod, which I have illustrated by a cut, for when at a distance from home, &c. he should be prepared to remedy such an accident. For further information I would recommend him to ask an experienced angler or his tackle maker, to show him how to tie on a hook to hair, gut, or gimp, and how to mend a broken rod, which may be communicated to him in much less time than I have consumed in writing on the subject. The facility with which the angler who resides in the metropolis can get his tackle fitted or repaired, makes him indifferent about the matter, but those who cannot avail themselves of such assistance, should cer tainly make themselves acquainted with the subject. DACE. THE TROLLER S GUIDE. CHAP. VII. Baits for Trolling or Jack Fishing, and how to select or chuse them. The fish which Jack and Pike chiefly feed on, are Gudgeons, Roach, Dace, Bleak, Minnows, and small Trout and Chub ; they will certainly take any other sort of fish Tench excepted ; . (see the reason for this opinion in the observations on Jack, &c. in chap. X.) they will even feed on their own species,, and occasionally attack the Perch, notwithstanding its formidable back fin. But when the angler can get a sufficient number of Gudgeons, Roach, or Dace, of a proper size, either alive or very fresh, to bait his hooks with, he may rest assured that he pos- sesses the best baits for trolling or Jack fishing that the waters produce. Among those three choice baits the Gud- geon is the most useful, either for trolling with the gorge hook, or in Live-Bait Fishing : for in trolling the Gudgeon spins better in the water, from the rotundity of its shape, than Roach or Dace, and it is also thicker in its body, and therefore the Jack or Pike when they strike at it, are not solikely to feel the lead in its belly or throat; the Gudgeon is also a very clean feeding fish, and is always so sweet, or well flavoured, that the experienced angler knows when BAITS FOR TROLLING. 89 Jack or Pike strike a Gudgeon, they less seldom blow it oat of their mouths again instead of pouching it, than any other bait. The -same reason holds in respect of Live- Bait Fishing, and further, that Gudgeons will swim stronger, and live longer on the hook than any other fish ; and also keep low in the water, whereas Roach, Dace and particularly Bleak, endeavour to reach or swim near the surface of the water, and if the Jack or Pike follows and sees the angler, they generally refuse the bait and retire. The next best bait I consider is a Roach, and during the months of January, February and March, I use it in prefe- rence to a Gudgeon ; the best size to choose a Gudgeon, Roach, or Dace for trolling with the gorge, or in Live-Bait Fishing for Jack or Pike, is about five inches in length; but when you go snap fishing, a larger bait is preferable, be- cause Jack or Pike will frequently seize a large bait, though they will not pouch it, which is a loosing game for the gorge troller or Live-Bait Fisher; but not so with the snap angler, because the instant the Jack or Pike strikes his bait, the angler, with a strong jerk, fixes the hooks into either Pike or Jack, and as a large bait is most attracting, of course the snap fisher should prefer it to a small one. The next bait in value to Gudgeons and Roach are Dace and Bleak; if you cannot procure any of those four baits, you may take any small fish (Tench excepted) you can procure, and with any of them you may kill Jack or 40 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. Pike. But Note If you ever use a Jack for a bait, it should not exceed half a pound in weight; and if you bait your hook with a Perch, be sure to cut away the back fin very close to the back before you begin fishing with it. I have killed Jack in the ponds in Tilney Park, Wanstead, by baiting snap hooks with a smelt, and also with a sprat ; this has happened in the winter months, at which season Jack and Pike are much distressed for food in ponds, and I have been told they have been killed by baiting with a small sized fresh herring of which, I doubt not. Jack are also sometimes taken in ponds and other still waters, (but seldom in rivers) by baiting with a live frog, to do which, put the loop of the gimp into the frog's mouth and draw it out at its gills, then draw the hook (which should be an eel hook) into the mouth, and tie one of its hind legs to the gimp, and all is ready to fix to the trolling line. If you use a frog for Live-Bait Fishing, use a single No. 4 or 5 hook, and fix it to the side of the frog's lip, or rather through it, the frog will live a long time in the water and swim strong. Trusting the reader is sufficiently acquainted with the materials for Trolling, w r e will immediately proceed to the practical part of the art of taking Jack and Pike with rod, line and hook 42 THE TR OLIVERS GUIDE. S3 r- O c OS H TROLLTNG WITH THE GORGE. 43 CHAP. VIII. Accompanied with Directions how to cast the baited Gorge Hook, and where; how to take Jack or Pike, to land and unhook them, fyc. About nine o'clock in the month of October, 1818, the weather being very favourable for trolling, arid the water of a good colour, I walked to the river Lea, where by appointment I met a young angler, with a haversack slung over his shoulder, a trolling rod under his arm, and. in his pocket a book of trolling tackle (see the cut figure 2 Clrap. 1.) consisting of hooks of various sizes, baking needles, sewing needles, silk, thread, a disgorger, scissars, &c. ; also a box with half a dozen bait fish in it, well sprinkled with bran, and inside his jacket (on the left hand side) he had placed a landing hook, fixed to a teles- cope two jointed rod. My young friend was waiting very anxiously for my arrival. On looking at my watch, I found it was not yet quite the time we agreed to meet; however, perceiving his impatience to whet a line, I spent but little time in complimenting him on the punctuality of his keep- ing the time agreed on lo meet, and on his having all 44 THE TROLtER'S GUIDE. the necessary tackle, bait fish, &c. in the best order, but immediately directed him to proceed in the following manner. First put your rod together, fix the joints one within the other firmly, and mind while so doing, that the rings on the different joints are in a direct line with each other to the large ring at the top, by which means the line from the winch will then run in a straight direction, consequently much more free than if the rings were in a zig zag or crooked line ; now fix the winch about the middle of the butt of the rod in a line with the rings on the other joints, and draw some of the line from the winch passing it through every ring, and out of the top large one ;. now continue to draw as much line, as about half the length of the rod to the end of the line, and fasten your trace with a draw slip knot ; very well ; bait a gorge hook in the following manner : take a baiting needle and hook the curved end of it to the loop of the gimp, (to which the hook is tied) then introduce the point of the needle into the bait fish's mouth and bring it out at the middle of the fork part of its tail, the lead will then be hid inside the bait's belly, and the shank of the hook will lie inside its mouth, the barbs and points outside turning upwards ; to keep the bait steady on the hooks, tie the tail part of it just above the fork to the gimp with white thread, or through the flesh, about half an inch above the tail, incircling the gimp, the thread passing under and over it, and then fix it to the TO CAST THE BAIT. 45 loop-swivel of the trace, and all will be ready for casting in search of Jack or Pike ; (see the cut chap VI.) now take the rod in your right hand, and rest the butt end of it againl the lower side of your stomach or the upper part of your thigh, and with your left hand draw a yard more of the trolling line from the winch, which you must hold lightly, until with a jerk from the right arm you cast the baited hook in the water, (see the cut of trolling with the gorge) when the jerk is given let the line which you hold in the left hand pass from its hold gradually, that the baited hook may not be checked when cast out by holding the line too fast, or that it may fall short of where you wish to place it, which it will do if you let go of it altogether immediately you have made a jerk or cast from the right arm. By noticing these observations, and with a little practice you may without labour, cast a baited hook to many yards distance, and almost to an inch of the spot you think likely to harbour a Jack or Pike. Many anglers troll with the rod held in their hand, instead of letting the butt end rest against them, but they cannot cast out their baited hook when so carrying the rod, with so much precision, nor with so little exertion as those who rest it against their stomach or thigh. Now you have every thing ready, cast in the baited hook just over and beyond that candock weed; let the bait sink, nearly to touching the bottom; now draw it gradually upwards till it is near the sur- 46 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. face of the water; let it sink again ; now draw it upwards and also a little to the right and left ; let it sink again and draw it up slowly, and step back a little from the water, and gradually draw the bait nearer the shore ; all very fair, but no luck ; the next cast in search throw a few yards further out ; Very well ; draw and sink, as before, to the right and left, &c. but yet I see you cannot move a fish; we will try another place ; aye here is a likely place, on my word, to find a fish ; observe the sags and rushes are very thick and reach nearly all round this bend or bay of the river, and I see there are a few weeds but they do not appear very strong, and the current and eddy is only strong- enough to keep the water lively ; now put on a fresh bait, a choice one; ah let me see; threadle this gudgeon ; I think this spot deserves every attention. Now cast in your bait about two yards beyond those sags directly opposite where I now stand ; very well; that is a neat and fair throw;, draw up slowly and carefully; something has snatched or pulled your line violently you say. Bravo, you have a run ; lower the point of your rod toward the water, and at the same time draw the line with your left hand gradually from the winch, that nothing may impede the line from running free, or check the Jack or Pike. Either one or the other of which, at a certainty has taken your baited hook ; ah, the fish stops ; I see he has not run more than two yards of line out, therefore you found him at home ; now by my watch I see he has laid still seven minutes; very well; but have a little more patience ; oh. TO PLAY AND KILL JACK. 47 now I see the line shakes ; all is right ; ah he moves^ he runs ; wind up the slack line, and strike, but not violently, and keep the point of your rod a little raised, for I have no doubt, by his laying so long still, that he has got the hooks safe enough in his pouch ; he makes towards the middle of the river, and seems inclined to go up stream. You say he feels heavy and swims low ; all is right again, believe me, he is a good fish ; I see there is some very strong candock weeds a head, and he appears desirous of gaining them ; try and turn him, by holding your rod to the left instead of the right, and lead him back to the place from whence he started. That is still fortunate, he turns kindly; ah, now he strikes off again; very well, let him go; now wind him in again; again he is off; steady, steady ; mind your line ; do not distress it by keeping it too tight on your fish ; now he makes shorter journeys, and seems inclined to come in shore ; very well ; you may now wind, and hold a little tighter on him, and feel if he will allow you to raise and show him, but be collected and careful ; that is well done. I see he is a fish worth bagging ; but keep steady, and have your line all free, for he will for a short time now be more violent than ever. Try and lead him down to yon opening, at which place, I see the water is nearly on a level with the Marsh, (a famous place indeed to land a fish, especially if the an- gler is alone and without a landing hook); he seems a good deal weakened, yet the danger is not all passed ; now draw him nearer the shore, and again raise and dive him 48 THE TROI/LER'S GUIDE. a little fresh air ; ah, now he is angry and growing des- perate ; but keep steady, for I think we are all over right ; see how he extends his monstrous jaws, shewing his nume- rous teeth, red gills, and capacious throat; observe how he shakes his head and flings himself over and out of the water, as if he was determined to break and destroy the strongest tackle; but steady; keep all clear and free. Now bring him near shore again; still he shakes himself violently, and has thrown another somerset in the air; It is all very well ; give him a few turns more and he will be tame enough ; now draw him close in shore ; I see he is quite exhausted, and floats motionless on his side; hold his head a little up, that the jaw or gills do not touch or hang to a Aveed ; that is it ; now grasp him with both hands, just below the head and shoulders behind the gills, and hoist or chuck him a few yards on the grass ; well done ; and a handsome fish you have for your pains ; it is a female Pike, I see, and in excellent condition, and I believe it weighs eight pounds, at least. Now, my boy, bag the fish, and put on another baited hook, for, I would have you recollect, it frequently happens that you will find a brace of Pike, in such a place as this, of a similar size, though of different sexes. After a few throws, my young angler had another run, and was fortunate enough to kill the fish, which proved a male Pike, seemingly with- in half a pound weight of the female. During the re- mainder of this day's trolling, we bagged a third fish, about four pounds weight; I then said enough, do not distress KILLING A PIKE. 49 the water; we now withdrew to a comfortable inn, on the river side, for refreshment, and while taking our wine, and at other opportunities, I gave him further information on trolling and Jack fishing, which the reader may find in this and the following chapters. TROLLING CONTINUED. When trolling for Jack or Pike, make it a rule to keep as far from the water as you can, and always commence by casting in search near the shore side, with the wind at your back; but if the water and weather is very bright, fish against the wind; after trying closely, make your next throw further in the water, and draw and sink the baited hook, drawing it straight upwards near to the sur- face of the water, and also to the right and left, searching carefully every foot of water, and draw your bait with the stream, because you must know that Jack and Pike lay in wait for food with their heads and eyes pointing up the stream, to catch what may be coming down, there E 50 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. fore, experienced trollers fish a river or stream down, or obliquely across ; but the inconsiderate as frequently troll against the stream, which is improper, because they then draw their baited hook behind either Jack or Pike, when they are stationary, instead of bringing it before his eyes and mouth to tempt him. Note. Be particularly care- ful in drawing up or taking the baited hook out of the water, not to do it too hastily, because } 7 ou will find by experience that the Jack or Pike strike or seize your bait more frequently when you are drawing it upwards, than when it is sinking. And also, further observe, that when drawing your bait upwards, if you occasionally shake the rod it will cause the bait to spin and twirl about, which is very likely to attract either Jack or Pike. In the bends of rivers and those parts out of the rapid current Jack and Pike generally lay, and also where there are many weeds, and when you find a hole or opening between them, then cautiously drop in your baited hook, and if you feel in this or any other place a sudden tug or snatch (which is a bite or run) give line as before direct- ed, and when the Jack or Pike ceases to take or run out your line and lay still, do not strike in less time than ten minutes after, for if you strike too soon, yoo have little chance, but if the Jack or Pike has pouched, he cannot getaway, if he is not struck for an. hour after he has taken the bait ; but if they shake the line and move, after they liave remained still three or four minutes, you LANDING A PIKE. 51 may conclude the fish has pouched the bait and feels the hooks, then wind up your slaclc line and strike, but not violently, and always mind to keep the point of your fod a little raised while you are playing and killing your fish; on the other hand, if you have a run, and the fish lays still for a minute or so, and moves a little way and stops, and perhaps moves a third time, dont strike, for he has not yet pouched, but let him remain ten minutes, for perhaps he may be disturbed by a larger fish making his appearance, and in consequence he first endeavours to get away, fearing the larger will dispossess him of his prey : therefore in such cases it is the safest way to give time or put on a snap hook. When you have a run, and the fish lays still, and you are disposed to lay your rod down, be careful so to place it that nothing can impede the winch and line acting freely, and stand handy to act as circumstances may re- quire, for sometimes a heavy fish when he feels the hook, will make a sudden and most violent rush towards the middle or up the river, and in an instant, rod, winch, and all are drawn into the water, or the line broke. When you have hooked or played a fish until he is quite weakened, and there is high sags or rushes before you, or you are on a high bank, the safest way to land your prize, then is, by fixing a landing hook in him, either through his lips, or under his lower jaw; because while E 2 52 THB TROLLER'S GUIDE. lifting up a heavy fish, if he struggles, he is very likely to break either rod or line ; or probably his pouch may draw out and you thereby lose your prize. A hook of this kind you should always carry with you ; the most port- able are those made to screw into a two jointed telescope rod, (see the cut in chap. 1 ) which I believe all the prin- cipal fishing tackle shops keep ready for sale. You may carry this landing hook very conveniently slung to the inside of your jacket or coat, on the left side thereof having a narrow long pocket made to receive it. - Observe when Trolling, Live-Bait Fishing, or Snap Fishing, you should bait the hook the last thing, that is, after you have put the rod, line, &c. together, because it is essential to offer the Jack or Pike a bait exceed- ingly fresh and sweet, also make it a rule to put a fresh bait on when you find the present one is torn, or becomes water sopt, and be careful to remove any piece of weed,&c. that may have hung to a bait before you cast in again, for Jack or Pike will seldom take a stale or sopped bait, nor one on which hangs weeds, grass, or any thing else, and when you go for a day's trolling with the gorge, pro- vide a tin box sufficiently large to hold six fish baits laying at their full length, and put under, between and over them some clean bran, which will absord the moisture from their bodies and keep them sweet for a long time; and they will also remain longer firm and stiff. I generally use a square tin box, with hinges and a slip clasp, of the following HOW TO PRESERVE BAITS. 53 dimensions, viz, from seven to eight inches long, about five inches broad and two deep ; the inside of the box should be divided into three or four parts by slips of tin that fall into groves (see the cut) ; by placing the baits in those divisions it keeps them straight, and by sprinkling them well with bran, (which absorbs the moisture of their bodies) the baits will keep of their natural shape and remain sweet. The troller who takes the trouble so to preserve his baits, will find his success greatly exceed those who carelessly wrap their bait fish up in paper ; the box for baits should be japanned, otherwise it soon becomes rusty, and then requires much trouble to keep it in a clean state fit to receive bait fish. Note. A large size sandwich box (sold at all the principal tin shops,) with the addition of the sliding partitions, makes an excellent bait box. By taking out those partitions the box is easily cleaned, which should always be done immedietely after you return from trolling. When I have been obliged to start early in a morning from town to a distance, for a day's trolling, I have pack- ed my baits the last thing over night, and sprinkled them 54 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. with a little salt, as well as with bran, arid thought it kept them longer, and in a better state for use. When you are trolliug with the gorge, you will find that either Jack or Pike will sometimes take your bait eagerly, and hold it several minutes by its body across their mouth (see the cut below) and then throw, drop, or blow it from them instead of pouching it ; you possibly try another kind of bait and cast in again, you have a run, but you are disappointed, the Jack or Pike will not pouch the bait, but drops it ; when this occurs, you may be assured the fish are more on the play than on the feed ; this being the case, convert your gorge to a snap, in the manner directed in chap. IV. the dead snap with four hooks, and you will generally succeed in taking or killing the tantalizer. Note. Among my trolling tackle I always carry with me two or three pieces of stick about three inches long, to use as a gag when I have hooked either Jack or Pike in the throat, I can then easily get my hook away without cutting or disfiguring the Jack or Pike, (supposing the hook to be a favorite one, and I prefer using it to any HOW TO LAND A PIKE. other) by gaging his mouth open, and then with a disgorger about nine or ten inches long, vrhich you may have made either of ivory, brass, or iron (for the common bone disgorgers are not long enough for the troller's purpose) I get away the hook, and save my fingers from the fish's teeth ; but if the Jack or Pike has pouched, the better way then to unhook him is to make an opening in his belly, and carefully cut away the parts to which the hooks hang, and draw the hooks and gimp out of the opening ; if this operation is done neatly, and it is very easy so to do with a sharp pointed knife, the Jack or Pike will be very little disfigured. In landing heavy Jack or Pike, it is best to use a landing hook, or to grasp them firmly with both hands just below the gills, for though it is generally recommended to press your thumb and finger in their eyes and so lift them, yet I have known many instances of good fish being lost by this method, for if they struggle much very few can hold them by a thumb and finger which is placed in the socket of the Pike's eye ; this method does very well with small Jack, but even those I have seen dropped and lost by the momentary alarm caused by the Jack (tfhich seemed quite exhausted) suddenly gasping, twisting, and struggling. 56 THE TRCVLLER'S GUIDE. CHAP. IX. Full Directions for taking Jack and Pike with a Lire-Bait and Floated Line; various ways of using Snap Hooks described; and the most proper seasons and weather for Trolling pointed out, fyc. When you purpose going a Live-Bait Fishing, for Jack and Pike, you should adjust your tackle in the following manner: first fix a winch to the, rod and draw the line through the rings thereof, as directed in the preceding article, (trolling with the gorge hook) now put the cork float on the trolling line. Note. A float of a size that will . LIVE-BAIT FISHING. 57 swim with about half an ounce of lead and a bait fish of four or five inches in length will be found, generally speaking, the most useful, (but when very small baits are used, and twisted gut instead of gimp, a smaller float will be requisite) then take the traces (which are described in chap. V.) fasten the line to the traces with a bow draw knot, or make a loop at the end of the line and loop it to the traces, and after having baited your hook fix that to the hook swivel of the traces, and all is ready to cast in search. When the float is fixed at a proper distance from the baited hook, which, as a general rule, observe, should be something less than three feet ; but in very shoal water> or where there are many weeds, two feet above the hook will be a more proper distance to fix the float, but in no case do I ever find or think it right to fix the float above the baited hook, at a greater distance than three or four feet. If you choose to fish without traces, adjust the line, float and baited hooks this way : first put the float on the line, next put a dip-lead, or as many swan shot on the line as is proper for the size of the float; dip-leads are to be preferred, because they are put on and off in an instant (see dip-leads described in chap. V.) whereas it takes some time to put the shot on the line, and more to take them off again, which must be done, otherwise you cannot 68 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. remove the float from the line, because the shot will be found too large to pass through the ring at the bottom of the float, or the cap at the top ; now all this trouble and delay is obviated by using a dip-lead, or the traces fitted with swivels, &c. (as described in chap. V.) However, whether traces, dip-lead, or shot are used, I will suppose the hooks to be baited, (in the manner described in the second article, chap. HI. and the cut, figure 2.) and the float fixed in its proper place, &c. and the angler at the water side (choose if possible to have the wind at your back) he must hold his rod and line exactly as described in the preceding article (trolliog with; the gorge hook) and as represented in the cut at the head of this chapter, excepting the hand represented as grasping the rod above tbe winch, it may be held below ths wiach if the angler finds it more convenient to manage. Cast your bait in very gently, and near the shore first, always standing as far back from the water as you can, being able at the same time to see your float ; if after a few minutes you have no success, advance a little nearer, and make another cast further in the water, or to the right or left ; if the bait is lively he will swim strong about, and make for the weeds, and there entangle itself, which you must pre- vent by drawing him gently away, but not out of the water. When the bait fish becomes weak, which you will discover by the float not bobbing about much, you should draw him gently to and fro, at the same time shaking your rod HOW TO PLACE THE BAIT, &c. 59 a little, which will sometimes stimulate a Jack to seize it, fearing it is making its escape, though while it ws stationary the Jack is seldom in a hurry about it, which prove the advantage of strong lively baits over the weak and languid, cast in search in all the bends, bays, and still parts of rivers, and in ponds, pools, &c. that commu- nicate with rivers, and near beds of candock weete> rushes, sedges, and retired places, in preference to rapid currents, or whirling eddies, for such unsettled places Jack and Pike like not. Observe, when you take your bait out of the water (to cast it into another place) that you draw it slowly and gradually to the surface for that purpose, not snatch ft out, because Jack and Pike, when not very much on the feed, will only strike at the bait when k seems to be escaping from them : those who take their line out without the above caution will often find a Jack strike at their bait, and in their eagerness, sometimes, throw themselves out of the water after it, but by the quick movement of the angler the Jack seldom hits the bait, and if he doe* he is generally so alarmed that he drops it again imme- diately. This fact is well known to old anglers. When a Jack or Pike seizes your live-bait, it is- gene- rally with violence, and the float is instantly drawn under water, therefore be sure to keep your eye steadily on it, and also keep your winch and line free) always holding a 60 THE TROLLTER'S GUIDE. yard or so of slack line in your left hand, that nothing may stop or impede the Jack or Pike when he has seized the bait, and is making for his haunt to pouch it, and if he runs very violently, keep drawing the line from the winch with your left hand that he may not be checked ; when he has got to the desired place and then lays still, do not disturb him in less time than ten minutes after he has so laid, or if you give him a little longer time it may not be amiss, for you are to know that when a Jack has got the baited hook in his pouch he cannot possibly get it out again, but if you strike before he has so done, you generally pull the bait from his mouth without the hooks touching him, therefore the only chance of loosing either Jack or Pike after they have taken the bait is, in not giving them time enough to pouch it, supposing them to be diposed to pouch ; but on the contrary, when you have a run, and the Jack or Pike goes some distance and stops a few moments, then moves again, stops a few mo- ments as before, and a third time moves his quarters, you must not expect he will pouch, for he is then more on the play than on the feed, or there is larger Jack or Pike about the spot, that prevents the one which has taken your bait from stopping for fear of the stronger taking his prey from him. However it may be, when such a case occurs, sometimes as well, with the third movement, to wind up your line and strike smartly the contrary way the Jack runs, and you may probably hook him in the chaps, throat or gills ; or you may change the hook WHEN TO STRIKE, &c. 61' and use a snap with a live-bait when you find the fish will not pouch. Further, recollect, when you have a run, and the Jack or Pike remains still (after having taken the bait and gone a certain distance) for three minutes or more, and then shakes and tugs the line and moves away, wind up the slack line and strike, but not with much force, because you will find if either a Jack or Pike has laid still for three minutes or more, and then becomes restless, he has pouched the bait (which they sometimes do the moment they take it) and begins to feel the hooks. When you have hooked a fish while Live-bait Fishing, act as directed with the gorge hook, that is, do not strain on him too hard, keep him from heavy weeds and dange- rous places as much as you can ; and lastly, when bring- ing him (either Jack or Pike) to a convenient place for landing, and he comes very quiet, yet be prepared to ex- pect he will, when almost in your hands, make some des- perate plunges, shaking his head, opening his mouth, nhewing his red gills, &c. prepare for this probable case with coolness, and when such occurs, let Mr. Jack or Pike have a few more turns in his own element, and when he again becomes tractable, you may be more sanguine of bagging him. You are to note that many very heavy fish are lost through the anxiety of getting them on shore, and especially at the time the violent struggling takes place, which I have described, for then the troller should 62 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. yiekl to the fish; but on the contrary, the young angler redoubles his efforts to drag the unwilling fish on shore ; but he frequently by using such improper force, either breaks his tackle or draws the pouch out of the Jack of Pike's stomach, and of course, in either case, loses his prize. If you fish with one hook fixed to.the bait's gills, in the manner described in Chap. III. Fig. 1. you must pursue the same method as described in respect to giving the Jack or Pike time to pouch the bait when you have a run ; but if you use a single hook, or three or five hooks, as described in Chap. III. Fig. 1. 3. and 4, you then fish at snap, and instead of giving time to pouch, when you see your float taken down, by a Jack or Pike having seized your live bait, observe which way he goes, and after he has run a yard or so of line out, strike him with a lusty stroke, that some of the hooks may get a firm hold, then play, kill and land him, secundum artem. Note. When fish- ing with those one, three or five hooks, just described, you may fix the necessary weight of shot or lead on the gimp to which the hooks are tied, if you prefer it to putting them on the traces or trolling line, because you put on and off those hooks to the traces or line, the gimp aot passing under the skin of the bait fish, as must b3 done when the hooks are threadled or lay on the side or shoulder of the bait, as represented in the cut, Fig. 2, Chap. III. for if the gimp is leaded and drawn under the bait's skin, it rips nearly all of the bait, which is mueh disfigured and soon dies. HOW TO CHOOSE & KEEP LIVE BAITS. 63 When you gt> out for a day's Live-Bait Fishing, you should take about a dozen live fish with you, principally Gudgeons, if you can procure them, because Gudgeons are a hardy strong fish, swims well, and will bear more rough usage without losing their scales or life than any other bait fish. Select all your baits from four and a half to five and a half inches in length, but not larger, put them into a full sized kettle, and frequently during your excur- sion give them fresh water, and place the kettle out of the sun, or in the water, where you can conveniently get to it. I have found that in putting my hand in the kettle, the bait fish therein struggle and bounce about, and by so doing, rub the scales off and otherwise injure each other, therefore I have a very small net, not much more than half the size of those used to take gold and silver fish out of globes, &c. this net I carry very conveniently in my fish kettle, by having a piece of the lid cut away at one corner, where a few inches of the handle of the net pro- jects ; by using this net I select which bait I may think proper, without much disturbing the others, or distressing them by putting a hot hand among these cool blooded animals. I prefer a longish square kettle to a round one (and always have mine japanned inside and out) for the water is less agitated in such a shaped kettle when you are carrying it than in a round one, and it is more convenient to carry, or to pack in a basket, &c. for a journey (see the cut in the first chapter, figure I .) than those of a round form. 64 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. : Observe that you make it a rule to bait your hook the last thing, after all is complete in respect to float, line, &c. for the more lively and strong the bait swims, the greater the chance you have of a run, and the fish pouching instead of blowing it out, which sometimes is the case when Jack or Pike are not much on the feed and the bait fish not very lively or tempting. Also recollect, (hat when trolling with the gorge, the snap, or Live-Bait Fishing in a place very likely for Jack or Pike to la} r , do not leave after a throw or two, especially if you have seen a fish move there at any former day, or if you have had a run in this place, and the Jack or Pike left your bait without pouching, but continue to cast and fish every foot of water for a considerable time, and if not successful, try the same place on your return, or as the gunner say's, try back. Snap Fishing, for Jack or Pike, with Dead Salts. When you intend using snap hooks with dead baits, for Jack or Pike Fishing, it is better to have a very stout top on your rod (such as recommended in chap. IV.) because much strength is required in striking when you feel a run, for it depends entirely upon the firm hold you have of the fish, by one or more of the hooks having pasr- ed into or through some part of the Jack or Pile's gills, SNAP FISHING. 65 jaws, or some other part. Your gimp and line should also be very stout. (I have described various kinds of hooks, and how to bait them with a dead fish, for snap fishing in chap. IV.) Draw the line from the winch through all the rings of the rod, as directed in trolling with the gorge, loop on the traces (if you use traces) to the line, or fix them by a draw knot which you please ; then bait your hook or hooks, and hang it on the hook swivel at the bottom of the rod by the loop, if you do not use traces, then you loop the gimp to the trolling line, or fasten thereto with a slip draw knot, which either you prefer , and now all is ready for to cast or throw, in search of Jack or Pike, but mind you hold the rod and line firmly grasped, that you may be enabled the instant you feel a touch, to strike quick and with force ; then proceed to play, and kill, and land your prize, as directed in trolling with the gorge. Note, carry several baits with you in a box, as directed in chap. VIII. Seasons and Weather proper for Trolling ; and how to bring Jack or Pike on Shore. Jack and Pike will take a bait in every month during the year, but not freely till September, which is quite early enough in the season to troll ; because, though Jack F THE Til OLIVER S GUIDE. and Pike spawn in March, yet they remain a long time after very languid, weak, and sickly, and their bodies are long and thin, and their heads large, caring little for food until the cool mornings, evenings, and nights of the autumn approach, they then rapidly recover their appe- tite and strength, and soon become fat and well flavoured, and are in the best state for the table from Michaelmas till the latter end of February (it is with real regret that the true sporting or gentleman angler puts his trolling tackle together before September; but the misfortune is, that all the waters within a considerable distance of Lon- don are continually fished by poachers, and in consequence of such practices, the different subscription waters allow trolling to commence in June or July ; the angler, from necessity, avails himself of this liberty to troll, because he argues that he may as well kill a few Jack himself, as to pay an annual sum to a -water, and leave them to the unfair angler who will kill all he can, and laugh in his sleeve at his forbearance) in September the weeds, rushes, &c. have lost their sweetness and nutritious properties, and begin to grow thin, affording but little harbour, shelter, or food for fish ; and as the winter approaches, those sedges, weeds, rushes, &c. rot, waste, and sink, or drift away with the floods; during which time, small fish, gudgeons especially, have left the shallows, and retired to deep holes under banks, shelves, piles, &c. which occasions Jack and Pike to be on the alert, finding much difficulty to satisfy their now ever craving appetite. Therefore, at WEATHER, &c. PIT FOR TROLLING. 67 this season, every favourable day should be embraced by the lovers of trolling, during the period above alluded to. Jack and Pike will continue to take a bait in March, but as they are then very full, and their spawn being also unfit for food, the gentleman sportsman will surely now desist from trolling. The most favourable weather for trolling is when a smartish breeze blows from the South to West, and the day cloudy or dull ; at such times keep the wind at your back and the water in front ; but if the water and weather is very bright, fish against the wind. From September to the beginning of November, Jack and Pike will take a bait best from ten o'clock till one, and again from three till dusk; but after the nights become very long and cold the angler should then prefer the middle and warmest parts of the day, for at that season of the year, neither Jack or any other fish will move much at any other time. Thick water is not favourable for trolling, for during a flood, which causes a coloured water, Jack and Pike keep very close in shore among the sags or rushes which lay near the banks, or in the still bends of rivers, to keep out of the heavy waters and rapid currents, where they remain stationary until the waters clear and subside. The angler who then chooses to try for them must troll close, even to the touching of those sags and rushes, or he will seldom move a fish; but immediately the water clears comes tho troller's turn, for the Jack and Pike having E 2 THE 1 ROLLERS GUIDE. been on short allowance, are now bold, voracious, and fearlessly take the baited hook. When you have hooked a Jack or Pike, and played with him till quite exhausted, and you are drawing it ashore/make it a rule to float him on his side, and keep the head a little raised above the surface of the water, that the nose or gills may not hang to, or catch hold of weeds while you are thus engaged bringing your prize to the shore, for sometimes you cannot avoid drawing over or among weeds, and I have seen a Pike touch and get entangled this way, and before it could be disentangled it recovered from its exhaustion or stupor, and occasioned much trouble and hazard before it could again be subdued. Note. It is asserted by some anglers that Jack or Pike will not take a bait when the moon shows itself during the day time, and they declare they have so frequently and invariably found that to be the case, that when the moon shines on the water, let the hour of the day be what it may, they cease trolling. I have nothing to say on the subject, the inquisitive angler can satisfy himself by observation. OBSERVATIONS ON THE GORGE. 69 CHAP. X. Observations on the different ways practised in Fishing for Jack and Pike ; also on Trimmers ; concluding with Remarks on the Nature, fyc. of Jack and Pike, and a Glossary of Technical Terms used among Trollers. Having explained the different ways generally practised by anglers in Trolling or Fishing for Jack and Pike, I shall now proceed to give an opinion on the merits of each different way, resulting from my own experience, and the practice of many old friends and brothers of the angle. First, with the Gorge Hook. In Trolling, with the baited gorge hook I have had the most success, and with it killed the heaviest fish. This bait shows well in the water, and turns or spins, especially when j'ou are in the act of drawing it up (at which time Jack or Pike generally take it) consequently very attract- ing to Jack or Pike. This bait also possesses another advantage over any other, namely, the closeness of the hooks in the bait's mouth, the points only just shewing themselves, which is material in bright water, and- also 70 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. less liable to catch hold of weeds, or any thing else that might displace the hooks or disfigure the bait ; and again, the hooks being so much hid and out of the way, by being within the bait's mouth, and the gimp coming from the tail, there is nothing to check the Jack or Pike when they are changing the bait to pouch ; for it is well known that those fish generally seize the bait in the first instance, across its body, afterwards changing its -position, and swallow or pouch it, head foremost; consequently, while so doing, the gimp and hooks in most other baits are liable to offend or create fear and suspicion in the fish, and the bait is then frequently blown or dropped out of its muuth instead of being pouched : I have known instances where a dozen trimmers have been laid at a distance of twenty yards apart, each trimmer baited with a choice live-bait, and after remaining many hours in the water neither of them have been touched ; I have then trolled between them with the gorge, and have had runs and killed my fish : some anglers think that cutting off all the fins of the bait fish for the gorge hook disfigures it, but Jack or Pike are indifferent about it, and it certainly is the best method, particularly as it keeps the bait from catching or hanging on weeds, and the bait also spins better when the fins are all cut close away ; in consequence I cut away all the fins, but leave the tail on. From the reasons above stated, I do not hesitate to say that I consider trolling with a gorge hook to be the most ON LIVE-BAIT FISHING. 71 sportsman like as well as the most killing way of fishing for Jack or Pike ; yet at a certain season of the year the angler will find it more profitable to use a live-bait than a dead, (which I shall notice when I give an opinion on Live-Bait Fishing) but to take the whole season for Jack and Pike Fishing, I firmly believe, he who confines himself to trolling with the gorge, will kill twice the number or weight of Jack and Pike than he who for the whole season, fishes only with a live-bait. Fishing for Jack with a live-bait, and a cork float on the line, is certainly an enticing way, but 1 do not con- sider it so successful us trolling with the gorge-hook, neither have I ever killed such heavy fish by this method of live-bait fishing as with the gorge-bait ; yet I know from practice, that more Jack and Pike may be killed by angling for them with a live-bait and a floated line, than any other way except trolling with the gorge hook ; and the little labour or exertion required to take Jack and Pike by this mode of fishing, is doubtless the cause of many preferring it, as it allows them frequent opportunities of resting when they reach a clear still place, either in rivers or ponds, with the pleasure of observing their float dance about by the live-bait sailing tooand fro, which certainly does have the effect of drawing the Jack or Pike to the bait; but they often blow, drop, or throw it out of their mouths again, from the gimp or hook touching them when shifting the bait to pouch it, this frequently occurs when the bait is hooked THE TROLLER S GUIDE. by the lip, which is my principal reason for preferring the hooks laying on the side and gimp, coming out below the back fin (see Fig. 2. Chap. III.) When the water is very bright, I use a strong No. 6 hook, tied to twisted gut, instead of gimp, and a very small bait, with which I kill many Jack and Perch, that would not take a bait fixed to gimp tackle in very bright or fine water, or in shallows during the summer. The most proper time for Live-Bait Fishing is, -when the heavy weeds, rushes, and sedges are rotten, and daily wasting and being washed away by floods, frosts, &c. which generally commences in November; from which time until April, Jack and Pike will take a live-bait more freely than at any other time of the year. Snap-Fishing. Snap Fishing for Jack and Pike is neither so scientific, gentlemanly, or sportsman like way of angling, as with the gorge or live-bait, nor does it afford so much amuse- ment or profit ; for when the hook or hooks are baited, the angler casts in search, draws, raises, and sinks his bait, until he feels a bite ; he then strikes with much violence, and instantly drags or throws his victim (nolens volens) on shore (and then almost wonders how the devil he came there) which he is enabled to do, because the hooks used for ON SNAP PISHING. 73 the Snap are of the largest and strongest kind used in fresh water fishing. But this hurried and unsportsman- like way of taking fish, can only please those who value the game, more than the sport afforded by killing a Jack or Pike with tackle, which gives the fish a chance of escaping, and excites the angler's skill and patience, mixed with a certain pleasing anxiety, and the reward of his hopes. Neither has the snap fisher so good a chance of success, unless he angles in a pond or piece of water where the Jack or Pike are very numerous, or half-starved, and will hazard their lives for almost any thing that comes in the way, but in rivers where they are well fed, worth killing, and rather scarce, the coarse snap tackle, large hooks, &c. generally alarm them ; on the whole, I think it is two to one against the snap in most rivers ; and if there are many weeds in the water, the large hooks of the snap, by standing rank, are continually getting foul, damaging the bait, and causing much trouble and loss of time. Tivo-Handed or Cross Fishing. In the North of England, two-handed or cross fishing is practised for Salmon, Trout, and also for Jack and Pike; but this method of fishing is but little practised elsewhere, indeed it can hardly be called fair fishing, and as such, it is generally forbid by the proprietors of private waters, who seldom deny a sportsman a day's ang'ing, under fair THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. restrictions. This two-handed Snap fishing for Jack and Pike, is practised in the following manner : take about forty or fifty yards of strong cord, sash or jack line, and fasten each end to poles about seven or eight feet long, and on each pole, fasten a large winch that will hold fifty yards of the strongest plaited silk trolling line; in the middle of the strong line (which is fastened to the poles) tie on a small brass or wooden pulley, then draw the trolling line from the winches and pass it through the pulley; now bait a Snap hook or hooks with a full sized bait fish, and fix it to the trolling line, and all is ready to commence two-handed Snap fishing. The parties managing the poles, proceed directly opposite each other, on the banks of rivers or other waters, and let their baited hooks in places where they expect to find ; and when they feel a bite, one strikes very smartly, and his companion then lowers or otherways manages his pole, so as to give him, any or every assistance while he is killing and getting the Jack or Pike ashore. When the gorge hook is used in this way of fishing, it is then proper to have two pulleys fastened to the thick cord, near the center of it, at about a yard apart, because, when (or if only one pulley then but one line should be used) one angler feels a run, the othor should immediately keep all still while the fish pouches ; this cannot be so well done when both lines pass through one pulley, and the troller knows that if Jack or Pike are not well on the feed, they will throw or drop the bait from the least check or alarm. In some CROSS FISHING, &c. 75 places the country people get a strong small rope or clothes line, and tie one or more snap baited hooks to it, and take hold, one at each end of the rope, and walk opposite each other, on the banks of small rivers and ponds, letting the baited hooks drag in the water, until they feel a bite ; the one strikes and immediately drags the Jack on shore, the other person slacks the line he holds, while his companion is so doing. Various other ways are practised for taking Jack and Pike, by night lines, trimmers, &c. but such methods are justly reprobated by the true angler who exercises his skill and art for amusement more than profit ; therefore, I shall say but very little on this part of the subject, but will in lieu thereof, teach you how to take large Eels, by chain lines, &c.; the tr miners mostly used in lakes, meers, broads, pools, and large ponds, are taken up from a boat ; if the place is not too broad you may get them with the drag hooks, or with a large stone fastened to plenty of strong cord being thrown over the trimmer line ; these trimmers are made of strong thin hempen cord, with a hook tied to brass wire (but gimp is better) and wound on a large piece of flat cork, about five or six inches in diameter, with a groove to admit the line; the hook is baited with a Gudgeon, Roach, or some small fish ; you then draw as much line out as admits the bait to hang about a foot from the bottom. There is a small slit in the cork, that you pass the line in, to prevent it unwind- 76 THE TROLLER S GUIDE. ing; as soon as the Jack or Pike seizes the bait, the line loosens, and runs from the groove of the cork free, and allows the fish to retire to his haunt, and pouch at leisure. These floating trimmers are named, by many, the man-of- war trimmers, from the largeness of the cork, and may be purchased at all the principal fishing tackle shops Some use only a wisp of straw or rushes, and tie two or three yards of string to a baited hook, and often kill. 1. 1. Rod to place and take up trimmers and dead lines. 2. Bank-runner trimmers baited with a live bait. The Bank-Runner, Trimmer, fyc. The bank-runner is mostly used in the day, while the angler is fishing for Roach, Barbel, &c. These trimmers are stuck in the bank, the bottom being strong turned wood sharpened for the purpose, with a winder at top for the line, which is fitted in the same manner as the man-of- war, but you must have a cork and bullet to the line, see TRIMMER PISHING. 77 the cut (the cork used fur a wine bottle does very well after the edges are pared round the top and bottom) and bait with a live fish, which should swim about a foot or two from the ground. When you use the rod, fig. 1. hold the line with your left hand, and with your right pass the forked part under the line just above the bullet. How to take Jack and Pike with Hook, Bladder or Bottle. Jack and Pike are also taken in lakes and other large pieces of water, by baiting with a full sized Dace, Gud- geon or a Roach, nearly half-a-pound weight is best; use strong snap hooks, with two lengths of gimp, and two swivels, which must be fastened to about a yard of the stoutest plaited silk trolling line ; then tie the line very secure to the neck of a large bladder, and launch it in the water with a brisk wind ; if the fish are on the feed, you will soon perceive the water agitated in the most violent manner, and after an amusing and violent struggle, the bladder will kill the heaviest Pike, provided your hooks and tackle are good. In Ramsey Meer, Huntingdonshire, there is an annual exhibition, called a bottle race, and often much betting on the event of which bottle kills a Pike first ; the baits and hooks are managed in the same manner as with a bladder, the bottle (a wine bottle) U used in place of a bladder ; the line is tied round the neck. When several are so prepared, they are ranged in a row. 78 THE TROLI/ER'S GUIDE. and all launched at a given signal, and much amusement and delight is afforded the spectators, by the Jack and Pike dragging the bottles about, (and often two comes in contact.) If the fish feed well, which is generally the case, for this extensive piece of water abounds with Jack and very large Pike, some fasten their trimmer lines to large bricks, or heavy pieces of stone, or clods of earth, to prevent being noticed, and throw them into the water. Snaring or Haltering of Jack and Pike. In the spring and summer, Jack and Pike will frequently lie dozing near the surface of the water, especially in large ditches connected with rivers and ponds, also among weeds ; they are then taken in an unsportsmanlike manner, by making a running noose of wire gimp trolling line, or treble twisted gut fastened to a strong line and rod, or pole, the noose should be very carefully drawn over the fish's head beyond the gills, then with a strong jerk he is securely caught : lift him out immediately. Fish may be taken when found lying in a similar manner to that already described, by putting two or three strong hooks at the bottom of your line, and letting them sink under the fish, then strike smartly, and you will generally be successful. ON THE NATURE OF PIKE, & c . 79 Beware ye flirting Gudgeons, Roaches fair, And all who breathe the lucid crystal of the lakes, Or lively sport, between the dashing wheels Of river mills, beware, the tyrant comes, Grim death awaits you in his gaping jaws, And lurks behind his hungry fangs. See Me. Quin's description of three hundred Animals, Remarks on the Nature, Haunts, Habits, Shape, Colour, fyc. of the Jack, Pike, Luce, or Water Wolfe. Lucius a Pike, a Jack. Jack and Pike have a flattish head, the under jaw is something longer than the upper one, the mouth is ex- tremely wide, the tongue very large and studded with teeth, the lower jaw is set round with large crooked canine teeth ; the expanse of mouth, jaws and teeth, enables this merciless fish to hold fast and quickly destroy the victim, that is so unfortunate as to come within its reach. The body of a Jack is long, and cased in very small hard scales, and when they are in season, it is covered with a mucus or slimy substance ; the back and upper part of the sides are of a greenish golden hue, and the belly of an indifferent white colour, the eyes are of a bright yelloAv, and sunk low in the sockets, but are so placed as to enable the Jack to look upwards (this should tech the angler not to sink his bait too low in the water.) 80 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. After Jack and Pike have fully recovered from spawn- ing, they then have many beautiful spots on their bodies, of a bright white and yellowish colour, their tails and fins have also on them numerous dusky spots and waved lines. Jack and Pike, when on the feed, are as bold as they are voracious, attacking all kind of fish, except the Tench : the scales of Tench are very -small and close, and the whole body covered with a slimy glutinous substance, which is considered to be of a balsamic quality, healing the wounded and sick of all the finny race; for which purpose the sick and wounded rub themselves against the Tench, and receive a cure : this is the general and received opinion, and, in consequence, the Tench is honoured with the name of the Physician, and is respected even by the all-devouring Pike ; and described in the following manner by POPE. Pike, fell tyrant of the liquid plain, With ravenous waste devours his fellow train; Yet, howsoe'er with raging famine pin'd, The Tench he spares, a medicinal kind; For, when by wounds distress'd, or sore disease, He courts the salutary fish for ease, Close to his scales, the kind physician glides, And sweats the healing balsam from his sides. CAMBDEN in his Britannica says he has seen the bellies of Pt1:e opened to shem their fatness, and the gaping wounds healed, by Tench touching them, and leating their glutinous slime thereon. (See page 322 of CAMBDEN'S Britannica.) ON THE NATURE OF PIKE. 81 Whether the forbearance of the Pike arises from respect to the healing qualities of the Tench, or is to be attributed to a dislike of the slimy matter on its body, I know not, but I believe the Tench is perfectly free from the persecution suffered by all the other species of fish ; for I have never taken one that has been at all mutilated in its fins, tail, or any other part, or with any of those wounds or scars on the body, which are so frequently met with by the angler among the small fish he takes. The Eel also forgoes his voracity, in regard to the Tench, both by night and day. I have known several trimmers to be laid at night, baited with live fish, Roach, Dace, Bleak, and Tench, each about six or seven inches long; and when those trimmers were examined in the morning, both Eels and Jack have been taken by the hooks baited with any other fish but the Tench, which I found as lively as when put in the river the preceding night, without ever having been disturbed : this has invariably been the case during my experience; neither have I met with even one solitary instance to the contrary related by any of my acquaintance, who have had numerous opportunities of noticing the singular circumstance of the perfect freedom fiom death or wounds, which the Tench enjoys over every other inhabitant of the liquid element, arising from the continual conflicts among each other. Pike, when much distressed for food, will seize the smaller of their own species, and also ducks, water rats, mice, frogs, or any other small animal they can meet with they will often seize a small fish, which tho G 82 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. angler has hooked, while he his drawing it out of the water, leaping above the surface for that purpose. I have known many instances of their swallowing the leaden plummet that the angler is taking his depth with; and once while I was plumming the depth (preparatory to fishing for Chub in the winter) with a folding plummet, having a No. 8 hook and a gut line, a Jack, of about two pounds, immediately pouched my plummet ; the hook, hanging over the side of this folding plummet, got sufficient hold of the Jack, that I held him and soon killed and landed this hungry intruder. Perch (the large ones especially) seem but little intimidated by the appearance of Jack or Pike, for they continue to swim about as before those tyrants appeared ; but not so with other fish, for they immediately swim or dart away with the greatest velocity, and the Eels suddenly sink and bury themselves in the mud, or lay close under thick and heavj' beds of weeds. It is generally supposed, that Jack will increase in weight something more than a pound in a year for the first four or five years, and during that time continue to grow in length, but after that period they grow more in depth or breadth and thickness. Some writers on natural history, affirm that Pike will live two or three hundred years, and grow to the amazing size of a hundred and fifty pounds or more, and that they are so wonderfully THETR BREEDING AGE, &c. 83 prolific, as to produce a hundred and forty thousand and more eggs in one roe. Of those circumstances respecting the age, &c. of Jack and Pike, I must confess, I know but little, therefore, shall say nothing more on the subject, leaving the curious to consult natural history, during unfavorable weather; but instead thereof, will inform the angler where he is likely to find both old and young, large and small Jack and Pike, so that he may avoid much loss of time and fruitless labour when in search of them. Jack and Pike are partial to quiet retired places, where the water is rather shallow than deep, forming a bend or bay in rivers and large waters, and also removed from strong currents, especially if those bends or bays abound with their favorite weed, the pickerell (on which they are said to feed) also the candock or water iilly, and the shore sides are shaded with tall sedgy sags. Among those sedges Jack and Pike lay (especially during floods, heavy runs of water, and while the water is thick) a foot or two below the surface, with their noses just projecting from the sedges, looking up stream for what may come within their reach as food ; therefore the angler, when he trolls in thick heavy water, must try close in shore. But when the weather is fine, and the water of a proper colour Jack and Pike occasionally go some yards from their haunts, in search of food, particularly to the sharps, shal- lows, and parts of waters where the bottom is clean, sandy. G 2 84 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. or gravelly ; because in such places, Gudgeons, Dace, and other small fish delight to resort to. In February (if mild for the season) Jack and Pike begin to move from their retired situations, and, from natural feelings, they con- gregate in shallow parts of pools, and nearer to those parts of rivers, canals^lakes or ponds, where small streams and ditches empty themselves, or run into larger waters. In the month of March they spawn, retiring for that pur- pose, in pairs, to the stillest part of the waters, and deposit their spawn among, and on those weeds which are of the nature of rushes, having thick stems, such as the candock and water lily, and in default of which, about the roots or lower parts of bull-rushes or sedges. From March till August or September, Jack and Pike are not in a vigorous state, seemingly more inclined to doze and bask in the sun nearly out of water, than feed ; for at those times it is not unusual to see numerous small fish swim- raing and playing around this dreaded enemy of the finny race for hours, without his disturbing them. At such times, Jack and Pike will refuse the choicest bait the angler con select, and if it is placed so close as to touch his nose, he will not take it, but generally draws himself a little back from it, and if you persevere in placing or drawing the bait (either live or dead) to him, he will sink or plunge away in anger; in fact, Jack and Pike are among, if not the longest of any fish, in recovering their health, flesh and appetite, after the act of procreation ; for few of them will take a bait freely, nor are they fit for WHEN OUT OP SEASON. 85 the table, before September. For during the first part of summer, they remain long, thin and lanky ; the various spots and golden tinge on their sides and back now lose much of their brightness or brilliancy, and their heads appear unseemly large, because they have then lost that depth and rotundity of body (especially about the vent fin) which they possess when in season ; for a Pike that weighs ten pounds when in full health and vigour would not weigh more than seven or eight while out of season or condition, which they certainly are, and so remain (generally speaking) in all rivers, lakes, meers or ponds, from the month of April, until August or September. 86 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. TROLLING TACKLE. The Angler who wishes to practise Trotting, should first provide himself with the following Apparatus. A Rod with two tops (see Chap. VI.) A Winch, Bank Runner, or Thumb Winder, to hold from forty to sixty yards of line (see Chap. V.) A Kettle to carry Live-Baits in, a Landing Hook, and Drag Hooks. A Pocket Book or Case (see Fig. 2. Chap I.) stored with the following Articles, viz. Gorge Hooks of various sizes (see Chap. III.) Hooks, of various sorts and sizes, for Live-Bait Fishing (see Chap. III.) Hooks, of various sizes, &c. for Snap Fishing (see Chap. IV.) ready tied to lengths of gimp, &c. Traces of gimp and twisted gut (see Chap. V.) two cork floats, a few dip leads, and split swan shot A pair of pliars, and also a pair of scissars Two or three steel baiting needles, from six to nine inches long A Disgorger, made strong of bone, ivory, or iron, about ten inches long Some spare Gimp, the yellow is the best colour, and Gimp that is strong, of a middling substance and pliable, should be prefered to the very stout and stiff, especially for Live-Bait Fishing. TROLLING TACKLE. 87 Some shoe maker's Wax on a piece of Leather And some whig maker's Silk, for tying on hooks Some waxed Twine, or shoe maker's wax ends, to repair a broken rod (see how to mend a rod Chap. VI.) Some stout white Silk, Thread, or Cotton, and two or three proper sized Needles to carry the same, for sowing up the mouth of baits, or to fasten the tail part to the gimp, &c. A tin box to carry dead baits for the gorge or snap fishing, which box should be japanned. Note. In recommending the kettle used for carrying live- baits (chap I.) to be japanned, I omitted saying the inside should be japanned with white, because the angler can then see very plainly the size of his baits, and select which he may prefer, with little trouble to himself, and also without much disturbing the said live-bait fish. Also provide yourself with a basket, pannier, or a haver- sack to carry the produce of your sport : the haver- sack will be found the most portable. 88 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. GLOSSARY OF TJECMJVIC^LL USED AMONG ANGLERS BAG A FISH, to put either Jack or Pike into a haversack, bag, or basket. BRACE, two Jack or Pike. CANDOCK WEEDS, (by some called the WATER LILY) broad leafed, thick stemed weeds, growing in large clnsters in the rivers, and other waters, affording harbour, &c. to Jack aud Pike. COME SHORT, when a Jack or Pike comes seemingly eager to take the bait, but when near, turns or shoots away, the troller then says, I had a fish come at me, but he came short. CREEL, a fish basket or pannier. DIP or DIPPING FOR JACK, is Jetting your baited hook fall or drop gently in the water, without casting or throwing it out. DRAW SLIP KNOT, a knot made to draw or slip, v.hich is the most covenient way of fastening the trolling line to a trace or loop of gimp, or whatever the hook or hooks are tied to. DRAG HOOKS, a piece of stout iron wire, with three or four hooks (without barbs) placed back to back, fastened to a long stout pack- thread line: these hooks are used to disentangle the line, &c. when a fish gets it fast among heavy weeds, by throwing the hooks over the place and dragging the weeds ; those drag hooks are also used to take up night lines, cork trimmers, &c. TECHNICAL TERMS. 89 FEED, Jack or Pike are said to be on the feed, when they pouch the bait immediately they take it ; also when you see them on the shal- lows or scowers pursuing small fish. GAD, a very small Jack, weighing less than one pound. GIMP, raw or floss silk, faced or laced with fine brass thread or wire, but if the angler can get some fine plaited silk covered, instead of the raw or floss silk, it will last much longer. JACK or PIKE, names for this fish, which are generally used as synoni- mous among anglers ; but a Jack becomes a Pike, when weighing more than three pounds, or exceeding twenty-four inches in length. KILLING BAIT, that bait which fish are most fond of, and which they take freely. KILL FISH, (see take fish.) KINK or KINKLE, the line is said to kink or kinkle when it twists about, and gets entangled in knots, &c.j and also when it gets twisted round the top of the rod and will not run. LANDING HOOK, a large hook, made with a screw shank, to fasten into a rod or pole. LAY, to lay the water, is to put trimmers in the water. MOVE A FISH, wh*>n the angler sees a Jack or Pike move, but will not take his bait, he says, I have moved a fish, but he would not feed. LEDGER BAIT in Jack fishing is a line and hook baited with a live fish, the line fixed to a rod. and laid down until a Jack or Pike takes the bait. OFF, Jack and Pike are said to be off after they have cast or thrown their spawn, because they then generally move to another part of the water, and also refuse a bait for some time after, or if they take it they will not pouch. Porcu, Jack and Pike are said to pouch a bait, when they swallow it. 90 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. RANK, a hook is said to stand rank, when the points stand wide, or much outwards. RUN: the troller says he has got a run when he has a bite. RUN : Eels are said to run, when they move from their hidden places in search of food, or to go to other waters. SPLATE A PIKE, is to cut it up. SNAP HOOKS, dead or plain, are synonimous terms ; meaning all hooks used in Jack fishing that are made without springs ; not because they are baited with dead fish. SEASON, Jack and Pike are said to be out of season after they have spawned until they have Treely recovered their flesh and proper colours TAKE FISH or KILL FISH, synonimous terms, anglers seldom say catch or caught. THREADLING A BAIT, is when a needle is used to bait a hook, such as the gorge hook, Eel hooks when baited for sniggling, night lines, &c. or in live-bait fishing, when the hooks lay at the shoulder (see chap. III.) TRACES are made with certain lengths of gimp, trolling line, or twisted gut, joined together with swivels, and then fixed to the trolling lje (see chap. V.) TRIMMER, hook or hooks baited with a live fish or frog, and affixed ta a line, and placed or laid in the water ; the line being fastened to a runner, cork, peg. or any thing, except a rod, constitute laying a trimmer. TROLLING, angling for Jack or Pike, from the Latin, Lucium Pisiculo inescare (see chap 1.) TROLL AT HOME: the angler is said to troll at home when he fishes near the bank or bhore; and Jack or Pike are said to be found at home, when they take and pouch a baited hook, without running far. TECHNICAL TERMS 91 TURN, is by giving a different direction to a fish after he is hooked, by inclining the point of your rod, either to the right or left, as you judge for the best. TURNED HIM OVER : the angler is said to have turned a fish over when he has hooked him, and turned him from the place he was making to, but he then breaks away. WALKING BAIT, a line and baited hook (with either live or dead bait, with or without a rod) with which the angler moves from place to place in search of Jack or Pike. WEIGH OUT A PISH, is to lift it out of the water without the assistance of a landing hook or net. WET A LINE, is to put a line in the water to begin fishing; but it sometimes happens (especially in the winter) when the angler has journeyed several miles, to a favorite place, he finds the water too high, and much coloured, which is all against trolling, he then immediately returns (if an experienced troller) and if asked what sport he met with, replies, I found the waters so much out, &c. that I did not wet a line. THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. CHAP. XI. Directions for fitting, baiting and lay- ing Night and Chain Lines, for Eels. Large Eels very seldom take a bait in the day time, except they are sniggled for, but run and feed freely du- ring the night, therefore the angler who wishes to furnish his own, or a friend's table with fine Eels, must take the trouble of laying night lines for them, fitted, baited, &c. in the following manner ; For the peg or single line, take about ten yards of chalk line, laid cord, or strong whip cord, but four strands of dutch twine, plaited, makes a line much supe- rior to any other for strength, and is also much less inclined to kinkle or tangle. Tie the line to a stout peg stick, which you fix firmly in the ground, then fasten the length of ten inches of gimp, plaited silk, or plaited and twisted breeches makers thread, or whatever your hook is tied to, to the line, either with a loop or a draw slip-knot -, but if you TO BAIT EEL HOOKS. 93 fit your line with a stout loop swivel to hang the hook link on, it is better than any other way ; about two or three inches above the loop or swivel place a bullet on the line to sink the bait. (See the cut.) The proper hooks for this mode of Eel-fishing, are single or double small sized Eel hooks. The single when a worm or piece of Lamprey is used for a bait ; and the double, when a small fish is used for a bait. Small Roach, Dace, Bleak, or Gudgeons, about four inches long, are all proper baits, and also Miller's Thumb, Stone Loach, and pieces of Lamprey Eels ; but small Gudgeons and Bleak I prefer for baits to every other. When you bait the hook with either of the above enu- merated fish, take a baiting needle and fix it to the loop of the gimp, or what the hook is tied to, enter the point of the needle in the bait fish's mouth and bring it out at the tail, and draw till the hooks are brought to lay close on each side the bait's mouth (see the cut); now tie the bait fish just above the tail with fome strong thread to keep the gimp or whatever the hooks are fastened to, from drawing the hooks out of their proper place or posi- tion, and all will be right. If you bait with Lamprey, they should be pieces about one or two inches long. Note. That part which contains the roe is the most enticing pieces. I have not found Lamprey a good buit .for Eels, in any other rivers but those into which the tid 94 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. flows, yet in them it is a very killing bait ; neither do they answer in any ponds that I have tried theni. If you use worms for baits they should be well scoured ; large lob worms put on a single hook in the following manner : Take a long minnow baiting needle, and fix it to the gimp, or what the hook is tied to, enter the point of the needle close to the tail of the worm and bring it out at its head ; draw till the shank of the hook is completely covered, taking care also that the point and barb of the hook is hid or covered in the worm : but let not more than a quarter of an inch of the worm hang loose from the point of the hook, for when much is left loose Eels are apt to nibble it off, and avoid taking the part which contains the hook. Some anglers bait their hook by entering the point of the needle at the head of the worm instead of the tail, which I prefer because the hook then lays in the thickest part of the worm, and therefore the point and barb is less likely to shew or be felt while the Eel is sucking in the bait. Note. Hooks baited with worms are very frequently bit and mutilated by small Eels, Minnows, &c. therefore prefer fish for baits, unless the water you lay in abounds with Trout, Carp or Chubb, who will all take a worm bait at night ; in which case bait some of the hooks with worms, and others with fish. In ponds I have taken large Eels with live frogs for a bait, but have not found it answer in rivers, and also AND WHERE TO LAY THEM. 95 I have used about two inch pieces of fowls guts put on ray hooks, same way as described with pieces of Lam- preys, Eels will certainly take this bait in ponds, but I never tried it in rivers. How and where to lay Eel Lines. Choose those parts of rivers or waters where the baited hook is not likely to be buried in the mud or entangled in heavy and strong beds of weeds, and if the lines were fastened to bank runners instead of peg sticks, the angler would sustain much less loss of lines, hooks and Eels, as the line gives way gradually from the runner, and in con- sequence seldom gets twisted or checks a fish when he is taking the bait. Though Eels generally lay, during the day, in holes or in the mud, yet when they run and are on the feed at night, they come to the clean scowers, and on the sandy or gravelly part of the stream, near beds of weeds, chalk stones, large lumps of earth that has broke from the banks, &c in such parts lay your lines. Some anglers will take the trouble to clear a sufficient space in the middle of a large bed of weeds to lay lines in, and they are generally well paid for their trouble ; and those who lay twenty hooks baited, and each hook fastened to a single line, will take more Eels than those who lay twice the number of baited hooks, fastened to a chain line. Note. When chain lines are laid there is no occasion for bullets on the hook links, because the bricks or turfs keep them in their places, which is on the bottom or ground. 96 THE TROLLERS GUIDE. n Chain Line. The chain line is so named from having a number of hooks baited and tied to it, and is fitted in the following manner : take from twelve to twenty yards, according to the number of hooks you intend to fasten to it, of stout cord, about the size of line which sash windows are hung to, these sash lines are used by some anglers, others use thin clothes line, or roasting jack line, either of them will do ; fasten one end of the line by a loop to a brick, or a piece of square turf cut from a field or bank (see the cut) the hooks which you intend to bait should be tied to about half a yard or less of trolling line, gimp, plaited dutch twine, breeches-maker's thread or some strong thin cord, and baited in the same manner as already described for the single or peg line, fasten the baited hooks to the large stout line about three feet a part with a slip draw knot, the hooks will then hang free from each other, then fasten the other end of the large line to another brick or clump of turf, and all is ready to cast or lay in the water. Note. Eels will run and take a bait at night from March until the latter end of November, unless when the moon shines very bright, during which nights the angler TO LAY AND TAKE UP EEL LINES. 97 had better keep his lines and baits in store for dark nights, especially the first week of a new moon and the last of an old one. How to cast in Chain Lities and take them up. If the nights are cold, cast your line in so that it will lay near die side of or under the bank, rather than in a shallow or current, because the Eels can then see the bait and take it close to their holes, for they will not move or run far during cold nights. When you lay chain lines in running waters, cast in the first brick up the stream, the other down the current will then keep the hooks hanging free from each other. When you come to take up chain lines, you must first provide yourself with stout drag hooks (sold at all fishing-tackle shops) fastened to plenty of strong cord; throw in the hooks over the part you placed the line in the water, and draw it to the shore. Single lines may be drawn in by the hand or taken up by a forked stick or trimmer rod, by putting the fork under the line near the hooks and hoisting it up. 98 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. CHAP. XII. Observations and remarks on laying lines for Eels ; also on Baits, Hooks, and the proper time to lay and take them up, to dry, cleanse them, fyc. In directing the angler to fasten his chain line to bricks, stones or clumps of earth, it applies chiefly to rivers and other waters that are public or much attended by anglers, boat fishermen, bargemen, &c. because in such waters he is likely to have his lines discovered if they are fastened to piles, branches of trees, or stakes; therefore the fastening to bricks, &c. is the safest way ; but in waters where the angler feels confidence all will be secure, he can often lay to more advantage with the assistance of a second person in a boat, in laying of bricks, stones, &c. If the baits are well taken by good Eels, they will often drag the line, bricks and all, a considerable distance from the place they were cast in, and if they do not tear or twist themselves off, they will often entangle the line, hooks, and themselves among heavy beds of weeds, and give infinite trouble to the angler in recovering and fitting- his line for another night's fishing. Those who live near where they lay chain lines, had better begin to take them wp soon after twelve at night ; WHERE TO LAY EEL LINES. 90 for by that hour, if Eels run, they will certainly have taken the bait, and then the line, hooks, &c. are but little confused, neither will a good Eel have had time to get away, for they never cease trying, for many hours, after they are hooked to escape, which they frequently do when hooked in the throat or mouth, for by their continual twisting and struggling, they rip the hook through the tender parts of the throat or mouth ; but if they have it in their maw or stomach, and the tackle is good, their most violent exertions will be in vain. In large ditches that have communication with rivers, and in narrow streams are often good Eels to be found, and if not broader than the angler can leap with the assistance of a leaping pole, and the said ditch or stream is protected, the angler should lay his line right across, fastening each end to stakes on the opposite banks. Note. In putting in those stakes, do not fix them in a direct line, opposite each other, but a yard or more (accord- ing to the number of hooks and length of line you use) below, so that the line and hooks may lay obliquely across the water, which allows room for more baited hooks than if laid in a straight line, and also, I have found my baited hooks do more execution thus laid, for the Eels run more on the side of sharp streams than in the middle. This way of fastening lines to stakes should always be prefered, where it can be done ; for when laying at the H 2 100 THE TROLLER'S GTJIDE. end of mill tail streams, or in the shallow parts or pools of water, formed from falls of water over precipices, flood gates, &c. ; and in such places with a boat, you can place the baited hooks to the best advantage, and you know where to search for them without loss of time ; when fastened to any thing moveable, you often have a areat deal of trouble in recovering your line, and that frequently fifty yards or more from whence you have laid, and when you have brought it to hand, it is such a confused mass of weeds, Eels, and the slime from those which have twisted off, that hardly any other than the most patient of anglers, would find resolution enough to untwist or disentangle the number of knots, which his line and hooks are tied in : but this ought to be done immediately, and the line cleared and washed from all impurities, and carefully dried, or it soon rots. When you cast in the water your chain line, that is made fast to bricks or any thing else, cast in the brick first underhanded up the stream, and the other down or across the stream ; then make a note in your pocket book of something on the bank, or some other object that you may readily find it again. When laying from a boat, fasten one end of tine line (having all your hooks first baited) to a stake, brick, or whatever you intend; then push off the boat, and let the hooks drop in the water regularly, as the boat goes down stream, until they are all out ; then fasten the other end of BAITS PROPER FOR EELS. 101 your line This is the way the fishermen, on various parts of the sea coast, lay their short lines called trots. In regard to bait for Eel lines, after much practise and experience, I can aver, that worms are the least to be depended on for killing large Eels, and that when the angler lays in large rivers, or tide rivers, if he can procure small Gudgeons, Dace, Bleak, large white Minnows (the minnows should not be with spawn) and lamprey Eels, he then possesses the best and most killing baits. I have killed a great many large Eels in docks, among shipping, and also in ponds, by baiting my night lines with chickens guts, which I first parboil, and then sprinkle with snk; and also with boiled salt beef, which 1 cut in shape like a fish before I put it on my hook. Some nnglers think fish object to every thing salt, but this opinion is erroneous, for I have had excellent sport when I have laid my fish baits, that have not been touched the first rii any fish bred, kept or preserved in any such river of stream, pond, pool, moat, stew, or other water aforesaid, without tire consent of the owner or owners thereof, or shall be aiding or assisting in the stealing, taking, killing or destroying any such fish as aforesaid, or shall receive or buy any such fish, knowing the same to be stolen or taken as aforesaid, and being thereof indicted within six calender months next after such offence or offences shall have been committed, before any judge or justice of gaol delivery for the county wherein such park or paddock* garden, orchard or yard shall be, and shall oa such indictment be by verdict, or his or their own confession or confessions, convicted of any such offence or offences as aforesaid, the person or persons so convicted shall be transported for seven years.'' " That in case any person or persons shall take, kill or destroy, or attempt to take, kill or destroy, any fish in any river or stream, pond, pool, or other water (not being in any park or paddock, or in any garden, orchard or yard adjoining or belonging to any dwelling-house, but shall b TRESPASS. 105 in any other inclosed ground which shall be private pro- perty) every such person being lawfully convicted thereof by the oath of one or more credible witness or witnesses, shall forfeit and pay, for every such offence, the sum of five pounds to the owner or owners of the fishery of such river or stream of water; or of such pond, pool, moat, or other water; and it shall or may be lawful to and for any one or more of His Majesty's justices of the peace of the county, division, riding or place where such last mentioned offence or offences shall be committed, upon complaint made to him or them, upon oath against any person or persons for any such last mentioned offence or offences, to issue his or their warrant or warrants to bring the person or persons so complained of before him or them ; and if the person or persons so complained of, shall be convicted of any of the said offences last mentioned, before such justice or justices, or any other of his Majesty's justices of the same county, division, riding or place aforesaid, by the oath or oaths of one or more credible witnesses, which oaths such justice or justices are hereby authorized to administer, or by his or their own confession, then and in such case the party so convicted shall, imme- diately after such conviction, pay the said penalty of five pounds hereby before imposed for the offence or offences aforesaid, to such justice or justices before whom he -shall be so convicted, for the use of such person or persons as the same is hereby appointed to be forfeited and paid unto, rind in default thereof, shall be committee! by such 106 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. justice or justices to the house of correction for any time not exceeding six months, unless the money forfeited shall be sooner paid." TRESPASS. If I go on another man's ground without licence, the owner may have an action of trespass against me ; and if I continue there after warning by the owner or his servant thereunto authorized, the owner, or his servant by his command may put me off by force ; but not beat me unless I make resistance, 9th, Edward IV. No servant shall be questioned for killing a tresspasser within his master's liberty, who will not yield, if not done out of former malice : yet if the tresspasser kills any such servant it is murder, 21st. Elizabeth, If any person shall keep any net, angle, leap, piche, or other engine for taking fish (except the makers or sellers of them, or the owners or occupiers of rivers and fisheries) such engines, if they shall be found fishing with, without the consent of the owner of the fishery, shall be seized, and any person, by a warrant under the hand and seal of a justice of peace, may search the houses of such prohibited and suspected persons, and seize to their ow n use, or destroy such engines, 4 and 5 of W, and M. Cap. 23. FINES AND PENALTIES. 107 Bargemen and others catching fish with nets in canals, &c. not being free waters, are subject to heavy fines or imprisonment; or if they lay snares, trimmers, &c. at night, are liable to transportation. Criminal proceedings and penalties for injuries done to private fisheries are punishable either by common law or by different statutes. The breaking the mounds of ponds maliciously, and stealing fish out of waters in enclosed grounds, is declared felony, and the offender taking fish out of water in unenclosed grounds are subject to penalties, and the owners of fisheries and ponds are authorized to seize the nets and fishing tackle of tress- passers, and to keep-or destroy them as they think fit. Vide Chitty's Treatise on the Game Laws, a work well deserving a place in the anglers library, as it treats very fully on the nature and rights of fisheries; as well as on shooting, hunting, &c. ERRATA. Page 47, last line, read " give" instead of " dire." RECENTLY PUBLISHED OF S ALTERS (PRICE 12s.) WITH jlrto owrr~)Jiatr ingrabing0t And much additional Information on Angling for Sea, River, and Pond fish. AT THE SAME TIME ANOTHER EB1TION, (PRICE 6s.) Illustrated with numerous Wood Cut*. AND ALSO, AN Abridgement of the above Work, (PRICE Is. 6d.) -- ******* - Sold for the Author, by T. TEGG, Bookseller, No. Ill, Cheapside, and at all the Fishing Tackle Shops. N. B. SALTER'S ANGLER'S GUIDE has been reviewed by thr Sporting Magazine for March 181.">; and also by the New Monthly Magazine for May; the Eclectic Review for June; the Gentleman".* Magazine for October of the same Year, and strongly recommendfl to all Lovers of Angling. Carpenter and Son, Engrarers and Printers, 16, Aid gate High-Street A 000037933