Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2008 with funding from Microsoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/artnatureunderitOOdunbrich ART AND NATURE UNDER AN ITALIAN SKY. 5" ART AND NATURE UNDER AN ITALIAN SKY. By^. J M. D.».wba,ir EDINBURGH: THOMAS CONSTABLE AND CO. HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO., LONDON. , MDCCCLII. GIFT OF PROFESSOR C.A. 'XOFOIO EUISBUKGn : T. CONSTABLE, PIIINTRR TO HKR MAJESTVr TO THE DUCHESS OF HAMILTON THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED AS A TIUBUTE OF AFFECTION BY M. J. M. D. iVi216948 CONTENTS. PAGE Introduction, . . . . . . . 1 The Domo of Milan, 43 The Bkera Galleky, 47 Genoa, .... 51 Visit to Pompeii, 95 Vesuvius, .... 104 Baue, .... 114 Hekculaneum, 121 Castellamare and Sorrento, 123 Lago D'Agnano and the Solpatara, 129 P-ESTUM, .... 137 Amalfi, .... 143 Second Ascent of Vesuvius, 147 KOME, .... 157 The Vatican Statuary by Torchlight, 167 St. Peter's, .... 173 The Protestant Burying-Ground, 181 St. John Lateran, . 187 Picture Galleries, . 190 CONTENTS. PAGE Vespeks, ...... 197 The Catacombs, 204 Museum of the Capitol, . 207 Bracciano, .... 211 Reception in the Colonna Palace, 221 The Vatican Pictures and Frescoes, 224 Villas, .... 229 The Miserere, 234 Interview with the Pope, 239 Illumination of St. Peter' s, 243 Departure from Rome, 248 Florence, 259 Visit to-Fiesole, 266 IjEaving Florence, . 269 Bologna, 273 Ferrara, 278 Padua, ♦ 282 Venice, 287 ART AND NATURE UNDER AN ITALIAN SKY. INTRODUCTION. ARious motives combine to make me wish to keep something hke a Journal during our ^. present tour. It is always a peculiar plea- rO sure to me to possess a memorial of the past, especially if that past has been marked by change of scene, or the calling forth of new feelings ; but to be able thereby to recall vividly those scenes and feelings, so as to share them *^n,)'i ^'i^I^ those who have either experienced or can aym- *^-- pathize with them, makes such a record more valuable still. The painful part of leaving England and oiu- own qiiiet home just now, is the consequent separation from our dear child, thankful though we are that she will be most kindly and tenderly cared for. Yet the idea, that if it please God to spare her, that dear child may, in after years, read the record of these days, will, I feel, add much to the enjoyment of employing my spare moments of rest INTRODUCTION. or leisure in a way that may hereafter contribute to her pleasure or instruction. We embarked at Blackwall in the steamer for Antwerp — September 1845. The " Soho" seems a noble vessel, and is fitted up so as to secure as much of comfort for her passengers as usually falls to the lot of mortals in such a conveyance, which, however, I must confess, so far as my personal expe- rience extends, is not saying much. Having secured a com- fortable seat on deck, I amused myself, as we gUded down the river, with the scene of bustle, so striking and bewildering to any one who passes for the first time through that world of shipping in the Thames. One's fellow-passengei's, too, come in for some share of interest on such occasions, and of criti- cism also, which doubtless is generally mutual. Near me sat a good-natured and somewhat portly dame, with a pleasing- looking daughter. The former amused me considerably : her remarks were precisely what one so often meets with in books. She was one of those people who bear that unmistakable mark of having risen in the world, viz., an evident anxiety to im- press you with the opposite. She took care to leave no doubt as to her being quite rich and able to do as she liked, while the allusions to " her house," " her carnage," " her servants," &c., were exactly the kind of thing Miss Edge worth and other writers have so often depicted. Among other pieces of infor- mation she gave me to understand that she had been " a great traveller," though it very shortly appeared that she had never before left England. This worthy individual was nevertheless both good-natured and kind. The daughter, a happy, joyous- looking girl, entered with all her heart into every novelty of this her first expedition — having, as her mother informed me, just left school. Le Pere, a thorough John Bull, according to my ideas of that generic personage — rather coarse and blunt. INTRODUCTIO^^ 3 but withal very kindly. A young married couple on their wedding tour ; a brother and sister ; a young lady, with her French maid in close attendance upon her : these were our principal compagnons de voyage, if I excej)t a most uncom- panionable-looking lady of imposing stature, who, if she did not look down upon, at least took no other notice of any one. The usual accompaniments of a rough sea and head wind, which, as every one wiU allow, are more personally interesting in experience than in detail, made up the liistory of our twenty hours' passage from Blackwall to the mouth of the Scheldt, where, next morning, Ave came on deck to gaze with some curiosity on the first foreign habitations, albeit these constituted only the poor little town of Flushing. After some five or six weary hours of toiling up the river, we beheld, at length, the venerable towers of Antwerp, which, from the flatness of the country, and the high banks which intersect it, have the aj)pearance, at a distance, of being half-buried, or of growing up from the level plain on which they stand. As we swept round into the Quay of Antwerp, fatigued as I was, I coidd not but be amused at the scene of energetic confusion that speedily prevailed. The water being low, we could not approach any proper pier for landing, and some huge masses of floating timber had to be lashed together before we could leave the vessel. This, for aught I know, may be an incon- venience purposely left unremoved, to prevent passengers making their escape before the douaniers can come upon them. Speedily these worthies appeared on deck, and then confusion became worse confounded, and the bustle almost frantic. For myself, I waited quietly, knowing that my hus- band was getting our passports viseed, and that rushing to and fro, as some seemed doing, in a fever of excitement, would not expedite matters. Meanwhile, my long-cherished dread INTRODUCTION. of foreign ciistom-liouses was not relieved by seeing the manner in which some of our companions fared ; yet I soon perceived that some of the officers were rougher than othei"s, and fixing on an old man, I made friendly advances to him, civilly telling him we had nothing contraband, that I was much fatigued with the voyage, and unable to exert myself in re- packing my boxes if they should be pulled about. In short, I quite propitiated the aged official, who, lifting up my dresses most carefully, just peeped in : " Tres bien, tres bien. Made- moiselle, c'est fini ;" ordering all belonging to me to be locked and prepared for his mark. This grand crisis in a traveller's fate being over so much more pleasantly than anticipated, we stepped right gladly upon foreign ground. On the way to the hotel we were at once struck with the great cleanliness of the town, as well as with its wide and well-paved streets ; nor did Antwerp sink in our estimation by our reception at the hotel. The "St. Antoine" is a most comfortable house, with an ex- cellent table-d'hote, where one meets with those desii-able but seldom combined elements of the wayfarer's entertainment — good dinner, good waiting, and a moderate charge. Towards evening we sallied forth, to make the best of our short stay, and bent our steps to the Eglise St. Jacques. It is a fine old church. The rich carving and ornaments of the interior are exquisitely finished, and the lofty ceiling of pure white, spangled with gold stars, though pecidiar, has a pleasing efiect there. The great object is the tomb of Rubens, imme- diately behind the high altar. There is an inscription on the tomb, and above, portraits of himself and a number of his relatives. The colouring is rich, and some of the faces are interesting. Placed above the picture is a figure in marble of the Virgin Mary, chosen and brought here by Rubens him- self. There is a small oval picture by Vandyke, which I liked, INTRODUCTION. but 110 other struck me. On leaving St. Jacques, we went to the Cathedral, of which the good city is so justly proud. I never before saw anything like the exquisite stone carving of the spire : its tracery, on looking from below, seems to have the delicacy of the finest Brussels lace. The interior is im- posing, and from its simple purity, united with its grandeur, the coup d'oeil is very satisfying. The massive pillars stand alone and unencmnbered, with nothing to mar the symmetiy and beauty of their proportions. But the great attraction of the interior we had yet to see, and this was readily confessed when the " Suisse de TEglise" drew aside the curtain which hangs before the great master- piece of Rubens, " The Descent from the Cross." I was much affected as I gazed upon it. There is a more than human expression in the countenance of Jesus, and in that touching resignation which appears in every feature, and which the recent anguish of death has had no power to overcome ! Yet with all this truthfulness of moral expression, death is indel- ibly engraven on eveiy feature and on every limb ! When I could look at the other parts of this glorious picture, the next object which rivetted my attention was the lovely face of the mother of Jesus. A mother's grief is imprinted upon that countenance, which is itself almost as pale as the lifeless fonn she beholds. But there is a subdued and holy calm also in the expression, such as one expects to find. The other two Marys have, each in a varied degree, the same look of sori'owful interest in the scene. Then, as if to shew the artist's power, he has introduced a noble-looking Roman woman, with her babe in her amis, and the same sadness in her face. Still more remarkable is the expression given to an old withered crone, who is supposed to be there to perform the last offices for the dead : she stands still, as though aiTested in the very 6 INTRODUCTION. act of approaching him. One fancies some such feeling has dawned upon her as that which caused the Koman soldier to cry out, " Ti-uly this was the Son of God." The next picture is Kubens's " Elevation of the Cross :" a very fine painting also, but inferior to the other. The " Ascension of Mary" is another of Rubens's clief d'oeuvres, called his "Bouquet;" but though some of the faces have great loveliness, the subject is repugnant to one's feelings. There are fine specimens of painting by Rubens's master, which we saw to great advan- tage, thanks to the intelligence of the " Suisse." Before we left the cathedral we much enjoyed the fine effect of the organ pealing through that vast space and filling it with solemn sounds. We returned to the hotel, and after a refreshing cup of cafe au lait, retired to rest. Next morning left by railway for Brussels. The railway carriages are very comfortable, and in every respect equal to our own. The country is quite flat, but pretty and cultivated, and English-looking. The road traverses the village of Berchem, which was the head-quarters of the French general Gerard during the famous siege of Antwerp. It is strange to fancy the peaceful gardens and orchards which now surround it, once the scene of bloodshed and all the horrors of war. Passed Mechhn or Malines, the celebrated lace manufactory ; and, after seeing the old Palace Laeken, where Napoleon decided on his disastrous expedition to Moscow, we reached Brussels. The first view of Brussels is striking. The Boulevards give an air of gaiety to the gity, and the houses seem well built and handsome. We drove to the " Hotel de Flandres," in the Place Royale ; and, after speaking to a civil landlady, were shewn to the pretty, cheerful room in which I am now Avriting, with a large window looking into the Grande Place. The following morning A^sited the INTRODUCTION, Cathedral. It is a massive pile of building, very rich, but without the elaborate elegance of Antwerp. Yet the scene on entering was very imposing. The windows of stained glass are beautiful ; and the varied tints cast around had something like enchantment in their effect. On one side the sun shone brightly through, and the reflections of the brilliant colours on the pillars were Uke gems amidst the imaged leaves and flowers. A few yards farther on, and the chief colour from the next window was a blood-red. This cast a sunset radiance on the pure white marble, tinting now a group of kneeling figures, now a statue, and again bringing into light and life the old grey time-worn arches. The whole centre of the vast building was filled with people ; but I could not look at the miserable tinsel figures of the Virgin and the infant Jesus before which they w^ere kneeling ! It was truly a painful sight. The Rhine — the beautiful Rhine — is before us ! We have stood beside its banks ; and as I write at tliis moment, I have but to lift my eyes from the paper to behold it in all its glowing beauty. I have determined at least to write a few hues before again going out, in order, if possible, still more vividly to fix this scene in the page of memory. It is one such as I have not hitherto looked upon. A rich mellow tint is cast on the distant wood-clad hills, on the nearer, swelUng meadow lands and studded villages, nestling calm and peaceful among vineyards and poplar groves, while the majestic river sweeps its onward course, making its waves a blessing as they pass ! I fully appreciate at this moment that line in Byron's exquisite description of the Rhine, — " There can he no farewell to scene like thine, The mind is coloured by tliy every hue." And now havina: as it were traced a mental sketch in these INTKODUCTION. few words, I must return to where I last wrote, and notice some of the passing events of the last two days. On leaving Brussels we took oiu' places in the railway to Cologne. For a railway our progress was slow, and the heat and dust almost insufferable. The country to Liege is very un- interesting. At Louvain we caught a glimpse of the beautiful Hotel de Ville, the architectm-e of the richest Gothic. After passing Liege the scenery becomes interesting. The town itself lies in a valley, with villas scattered on the sides of the hills, surrounded by orchards and gardens. The quantity of hops seems a characteristic here ; each house has a large plantation attached of these graceful hanging northern vines. The line passes through the valley of the Vesdre, a riant champaign, with wooded slopes, winding streams, picturesque cottages, and little village churches, with tall spires, looking out from sheltered nooks. It is a rich and varied scene for a railway to pass through ; and it was pecuharly refreshing, amidst the dust and heat and noise, to look out on these smiling homes. At Verviers we had to change carriages, and I shall not soon forget the scene of confusion w^hich ensued. The whole thing is most wretchedly managed : a miserable little room, with one table, on which lay a few stale cakes and biscuits, was all the accommodation and relief for our heat, thirst, and weariness ! Of course it was crammed, so there was no remaining in it. Outside was the alternative of a broiHng sun, clouds of dust and tobacco, combined mth the hissing of steam-engines, and men and women screaming German ! Yet there we had to wait full half an hour before even the carriages were prepared. Then came such rushing and pushing, in the midst of which I was almost laid pros- trate by the elbow of a huge German, with a beard hke a wild beast. INTRODUCTION. The country continued extremely pretty, all of the same sunny character, with eveiy now and then a glassy river, with wooded banks and shady pools. As the evening advanced it became cool and refreshing. One lady in the carriage was very agreeable, evidently a German, but speaking French well. We had a good deal of conversation on various sub- jects. Amongst other things I found she had lived a good deal at Mannheim, and knew dear M quite well. She, as well as several others whom I have met with, mentioned her in terms which delighted me, and which I longed for D to hear ! We reached Aix-la-Chapelle about seven. It is the first Prussian search, but as we were booked to Cologne we were not examined. We got to Cologne station soon after nine, and were agreeably sui-j)rised with the contrast between the Prussian and Belgian way of conducting matters. The ser- vants civil — no bustle or confusion. The foreign arrange- ments in regard to railway luggage seem veiy good. We were all shewn into a large room, with a railing round a space in the midst, into which all the trunks, bags, and boxes were brought. The number of your luggage ticket, which has been put on each of your boxes at the station where you booked, is then called out by yourself, or given to a porter, and so in turn everything is infallibly deposited at the feet of its owner. I made friends with a very civil Prussian douanier, on whom I practised the device so successful at Antwerp — and he most accommodatingly gesticulated and acquiesced in all I said ; " Bah, c'est ca, bien, bien !" helped to get our things together, and giving us a ticket, declared us free ; and so the second of these dreaded searches was over. I slipped a trifle into tliis man's hand, but not till after all was over, therefore not by way of bribe, but in reward of his civility. 10 INTRODUCTION. A capital omnibus took us to the Hotel Germanie, close to the cathedral, our reason for choosing it. It is a large estab- lishment, but without the little comforts of Antwerp and Brussels ; however we slept well, and found the beds very com- fortable. In the morning, after breakfast, we proceeded to the grand object of interest here. Of any we have yet seen, this cathedral is perhaps the most difficult to describe ; for while all must allow and admire its gorgeous architecture and magnificent internal decorations, I for one was unable to feel its beauty as I did that of the others already noticed. It is in an interesting state at present. After having remained almost a ruin for centuries, the King of Prussia has yearly contributed a large sum towards its restoration and comple- tion. It is difficult to realize what the effect will be of the vast towers which are contemplated to carry out the original plan of the architect. WeU may it be said that when finished it will be the " St. Peter's" of Gothic architecture. The choir is the only part finished : it is a very vision of splendour ! The five painted windows in the north, executed in 1508, with their rich hues and quaint devices, are singularly beau- tiful. The great height, the double range of stupendous buttresses, and the brilliant colouring and gilding all around, produce a wondrous and dazzling effect upon the mind. Some very old paintings have recently been discovered ; one of them in a side chapel bears the date of 1410. The colours are surprisingly vivid, and there is also a peculiar softness which is pleasing ; but the total disregard of perspective in these earliest productions destroys, in a great measure, one's first appreciation of them. We next visited the " Shrine of the Three Kings of Cologne." The legend is, that these were the magi who brought presents to our Lord at Bethlehem. Tlie shrine is a INTRODUCTION. 11 large case, the gi'eater part of solid silver gilt, the front of pure gold. The precious stones set in every part of it are enormous ; and though many were taken out at the time of the French Kevolution, and replaced with imitations, still enough remain to give an idea of the immense value of the shrine. It is still estimated to be worth six million francs, about £240,000. The contrast to all these splendid gems is ghastly when you are shewn three skulls, said to have been those of "Gaspar," " Balthazar," and "Melchior," with golden crowns placed around them, and the names inscribed in rubies above each ! Near this strange tomb is a slab of marble, covering the heart of " Mary of Medicis." In the sacristy we were shewn a shrine of richly chased silver, with beautiful bas-reliefs, containing the bones of St. Engelbert, who founded the cathedral, and some exquisite carvings in ivory. A magnificent vase of rock crystal, ornamented with precious stones, and a sword of state of great antiquity, borne by the Electors of Cologne at the coronation of the emperors, are also kept here. In the afternoon started by railway for Bonn. The Royal Hotel here is a sumptuous mansion, with a noble staircase and salon. Our room I have already de- scribed as overlooking a scene of great loveliness. In the cool of the evening we wandered out ; and first passing a part of the celebrated university, went to a garden, at one end of which is a kind of ramj)art, Avith parapets overlooking the river, and from thence we enjoyed again that most beautiful scene, clothed if possible in richer glories by the tints of the setting sun. Having visited the various objects of interest in the town itself, amongst others a noble bronze statue of Beethoven just erected close to the cathedral, we returned heartily tired after such a day. Sorry as we were to say farewell to Bonn, we had to do so next morning at seven, when we stepped on 12 INTRODUCTION. board the steamer for Coblentz. The real Rhine scenery be- gins immediately on leaving Bonn. In a few minutes the castled crag of Drachenfels, " frowning o'er the wide and Avinding Rhine," was before us, and we were gazing on the scene so often pictured by fancy when reading tales connected with it. " The frequent feudal towers Through green leaves lift their walls of grey, Looking o'er this vale of vintage bowers." One which is particularly beautiful, and also interesting from its romantic story, is the " noble arch, in proud decay," of Rolandseck. It looks down on the Convent of Nonnenwerth, where Roland's betrothed bride was immured, whilst he lived a lonely hermit in the castle. The convent is now a hotel, but most picturesque in its situation and external appearance. The road becomes visible here as it winds along the banks. Its foundations were laid by the Romans, so that as early as A.D. 161, there was a road here. It would be tedious were I to describe in succession the lovely points of view which each moment revealed, but one or two I cannot pass without some notice. The situation of the castle of Rheineck is one of the most striking. On a pei-jiendicular rock of great height, wooded from the base of the castle to the banks of the river, it stands in venerable grandeur. Just after passing it, is the last view of the Drachenfels, with its bold craggy outline in the blue distance — Rheineck in the bright foreground, and the graceful bend of the river as it sweeps away from you. There is not a more beautiful combination of picturesque objects on the whole of the Rhine than at this spot. " An- dernach" is a quaint old town, reniarka})le for two singular quarries of stone ; but after passing it there is no peculiar beauty in the scenery until near " Coblentz " where it seems to INTRODUCTION. 13 burst afresh upon you. We had made acquaintance during the day with a nice English girl and her brother, who landed with us at Coblentz. The Hotel dii Geant, from which I now write, had been re- commended to both parties. It is on a gigantic scale certainly ; an excellent table-d'hote, with a capital band i)laying whilst we dined. Our private room, however, is on the ground-floor, so we have all the noise with none of the view of the river. In the cool of the evening we hired a fiacre, and drove to the Chartreuse. Passing through the town, and a part of the extensive fortifications, we reached the Forts of Constantino and Alexander. The size and height of these forts, situated on lofty rocks, are immense. The view, as we ascended the Chartreuse, became more and more magnificent. Ehren- breitstein, the " Gibraltar of the Rhine," is the grandest featm'e. On the one side is the magnificent Rhine, flowing calmly on, and at your very feet the blue sparkling MoseUe, which joins the Rhine at the base of the Chartreuse. How intensely I enjoyed that evening's drive ! We started next morning at nine o'clock, and were soon rapidly losing sight of Ehrenbreitstein, Stolzenfels, and the other beautiful features of the landscape around Coblentz. The character of the scenery here entirely changes. Instead of the sunny slopes, smiUng meadows, and hanging vineyards, which hitherto had given such softness of beauty to the banks of the river, the mountains close in upon it, and you appear to be suddenly transported into a narrow defile ; black pre- cipitous rocks cast their shadows on the water, and frowning castles rear their sombre masses against the sky, carrying the mind back to feudal times and barbarous ages. One of the very finest scenes I have yet beheld was soon after leaving Braidiach. There is a small town with a chateau at the 14 INTRODUCTION. water's side. It stands at the foot of a high conical-shaped rock, and on this rock is the noble castle of Marksburg, the most perfect on the Khine. It is the very heau ideal of an old castle, with its battlements and loopholes, and walls which seem as though nought but the ivy could scale them. Another sweep of the river brought into view a pretty village embo- somed in trees. There are white cottages nestling beneath their shade, while a tall church spire shoots above them. Just as we were passing, the brightest sunshine glowed upon this village — upon its meadows stretching to the water's edge, and upon the w^ooded bank opposite ; yet leaving the old castle in the deepest shade. At the same moment another gleam of light feU on the mountains behind the height of Marksburg, so that aU was light, save the dark old ruin itself, and the rugged rock on which it stands. It was one of those exquisite pictures, with a combination of everything to make it perfect, one sometimes for a moment meets with. The next place of much interest is St. Goar, overhung by the vast fortress of Kheinfels. It is of great extent, but quite in ruins. Here we had to part with our pleasant travelling- companions — the brother and sister already mentioned, who landed at St. Goar to see Rheinfels, and were then to go to Wiesbaden. The scenery continues most striking after leav- ing St. Goar, the rocks so wild and precipitous, closing in on both sides of the stream. One part has quite an a^\^ul character. On either hand are these black rocky barriers ; beneath one bank is a dark whirlpool, and by the other a rapid, formed by the stream dashing over sunken rocks, and ^Adth a force increased by the narrowness of its bed. At the village of Caub is the spot where Bliicher crossed the Rhine with his army on new year's night, 1814. It was on coming in sight of it that his soldiers burst forth into one simultane- INTKODUCTION. 15 ous cry, " The Rhine — the Rhine !" and truly one does not wonder that this bounteous and beautiful river should have been through all ages such an object of reverence, as well as affection, to the Germans, The castle of Rheinstein next attracted our notice. It stands on a projecting ledge of rock, with masses of rich wood behind and around it. This castle has been restored and beautifully fitted up as a modern residence. Opposite Rhein- stein is the village of Assmanshausen, which gives its name to the famous Rhine wine. It is strange to see the vine- yards reaching to the very tops of what might be thought inaccessible heights, on narrow ledges of rock, hke successive terraces cut in the mountain. The vine-dressers are forced to scale the face of the rocks sometimes by ropes, and also to carry up a great part of the soil in baskets on their shoulders. The value of these grapes here is so great, that even those that drop are picked up with forks made for the purpose. They hang very long, the vintage not beginning until Novem- ber. I got all my information on this subject, as well as about the places on the Rhine, from a remarkably pleasing young man who was escorting his mother, an old infirm lady. To her I happened to have rendered some httle assistance, which seemed to gratify her son, who, in return, was extremely kind, explaining every thing as we went along, and lending me sundry books and maps. We had a great deal of conversa- tion after dinner, discussing various subjects. I remained sitting by the old lady whilst her son was w^alking about ; so that I was not far from them when he returned with an old veteran officer, saying to his mother he had met with a friend of hers. To my surprise the old gentleman bent his knee before her, and kissing her hand said, " J'ai Thonneur de saluer Madame la Duchesse." In the course of conversation 10 INTRODUCTION, some little time after, I happened to ask, to whom belonged a magnificent palace we saw, " Ah ! c'est a mon cousin le Prince de Nassau." After a little Avhile he pointed out a building in the distance, saying, " C'est le palais de mon frere le Due regnant de" . , . . I could not catch the name, from my ignorance of Grerman. He announced to me that he was married to the most charming woman in the world, and that he loved all English people for her sake. There was much that w^as very pleasing about him. His manners frank, kindly, and unaifected. As we drew near Biberich, the cha- teau of the Duke of Nassau, he told me they were to land there, and as we had discovered that we had some mutual acquaintances, both he and his mother invited us in the kindest manner to come and see them. We had a most friendly parting. Madame la Duchesse overwhelmed us with good wishes, and M. le Prince G requested that we might exchange cards as a little remembrance of our meeting. We reached Mayence about half-past six, and went imme- diately to the pleasant and quiet Hotel de Hesse. In the evening walked out by moonhght, merely to breathe the fresh air, for it was too late to see anything of the town. The sceneiy above Mayence is monotonous and uninteresting ; so I occupied myself on deck next morning writing letters till dinner-time. We had a quick i)assage, getting to Mannheim in about six hours. Leaving our luggage on landing, at the station, we at once proceeded to find the palace. It was veiy interesting to me to see the place where D was married, and of which I have heard so much. It is a fine building, and though not distinguished for beauty of architecture, is imposing from its size and situation. The grounds and ter- races are tastefully laid out, and there is a very fine distant view of the Vosges Mountains. I picked a rose from one of INTRODUCTION, the flower-beds, to keep as a memeilto of my having visited M 's home ! We returned in time for the last train to Heidelberg, which we reached in about half-an-hour. After tea we wandered out, and crossed the beautiful bridge which spans the Neckar, immediately behind Heidelberg. The air was balmy and dehcious, and as the dim twilight closed in, we were much struck with the scene on looking back. The wooded mountain which forms the fine background of the town, lay with an outline sharply defined against the clear sky, while the moon, which was just rising behind it, cast all in front into a gloom, rendered only the deeper by the many twinkling lights running in lines here and there along invisible streets. Immediately before us, placed upon the ends of the bridge, were tall sculptured figures, rising still and solemn into the silvery moonbeams which now fell on the upper portion of their forms. Beyond these was the massive arch of the gateway, through which we had passed beyond the walls, and the sombre roof of the old cathedral rising above it. We had come here in hope of getting a moonlight glimpse of the old castle, but could do nothing more than imagine where it might be, amid the dark shadows of the overhanging mountains. Our ramble, notwithstanding, was a very pleasant one. We were early astir next morning, impatient to visit the magnificent castle. Such a carriage-road as that leading to it I never beheld. Looking from the bottom its steepness seems almost impracticable even for bipeds. How the two quadrupeds in our carriage contrived to scramble up I know not, being too nervous to open my eyes till the summit was reached. But I speedily had to confess that the object gained might reconcile one to much greater perils. We went all over this noble and most impressive ruin. The guide pointed B 18 INTRODTTCTION. out the part built by Frederick IV., 1607, in the fa9ade of which are ancestral statues of the reigning house of Bavaria. Then the building of Otho Henry, 1549-59, the finest part of the castle. Here the architecture is beautiful, and the sculp- ture very rich. The Octagon Tower lies in ponderous ruined masses, occasioned by the stroke of lightning, which indeed finally destroyed the castle in 1764. The date of the erection of the oldest part of the building is 1300, by the Elector Kudoph, whose statue is still to be seen. The English build- ing and gate were both erected in 1612, for our Princess Elizabeth Stuart, (daughter of James I., and grand-daughter, of com-se, of Mary Queen of Scots,) by her husband. Elector Frederick. I remember when at Burley, reading a very inter- esting memoir of this Princess, and many parts of it were recalled as I marked the home she describes ; particidarly the trimnphal arch leading to her own flower-garden, with its pillars twined with sculptured ivy leaves, which was built to commemorate her marriage. There seems to have been a good deal of ambition, as well as strength of character, in this Princess. When her husband hesitated to accept the Crown of Bohemia, her reply is said to have been — " Let me rather eat dry bread at the table of a king, than feast at that of an Elector" — and she had literally to do so before she died. There is part of a tower remaining, built by Elector Louis, of which the walls are twenty-two feet thick. It was destroyed in the last bombardment by the French, under ChamiUy, whose brutality was atrocious. The fimous tun, the largest wine butt in the world, is in the cellar below, but ha\dng no curiosity about this Bacchanahan marvel, we preferred wan- dering through the lovely woods and grounds. One view from the terrace, overhanging the river, was vividly impressed on my memory. The Neckar flows forth from its vine-clad INTRODUCTION. 1