f V ....^ '-^^ \ 1 VI ■ ^-^ i ' (S, , I- i i //// ... ) •nia U] '0 ^ m^' |:C> ^ . _ f ' I LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF eALIFORNIA RIVERSIDE w M e'' A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE N BY .. C ALBERT SMITH. LONDON: DAVID BOGUE, 86, FLEET STREET, MDCCCL. /SCO 'T\<'-^^[ a- TO HIS MOTHER, THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED, BY THE AUTHOR. PREFACE. I FEAR that those of my friends who looked for a "Comic Constantinople" in this volume, will be somewhat disappointed ; so also will those who thought I might be tempted, by the example of all other writers, to give my own opinions, either upon the long-vexed question of Eastern politics, or the social and probable condition of the Turks. With the conviction that, in the first place, the funny school has been a little overdone of late ; and, in the second, that far more able and experienced heads than those of the mere tourist are constantly and gravely discussing the relations between Tiukey and the Frank world, with practical views and powers, I have only essayed to present a book of First Impressions — describing all things, as plainly as may be, just as they struck me upon my journey ; colouring nothing for the sake of a page of poetical description or conventional enthusiasm, nor depre- ciating anything because it chanced to cross some private whim or fancy of my own. VI PREFACE. When I was on my way to the East, by the route that I have detailed in the appendix, I met many return travellers, whom I was always eager to question upon several points connected with the general superficial features of a sojourn at Constantinople : and I found many little practical hints they gave me, of much service on my arrival. In turn, I now present these to my readers, premising that my humble addition to the catalogue of works upon the East already published, is intended solely for those who have not been there. With respect to the illustrations, I have given only those which appeared to be the most characteristic, rather than the most imposing. After the magic pencils that have so admirably delineated the prin- cipal features of the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn, any attempt on my part, to offer a fresh view of the pinnacled glories of Stamboul, or the fairy palaces of the "Ocean Stream," would have been preposterous and absurd. There are many works of first-rate excellence, popular in England, in which fine drawings will be found of most of the spots I have described, and which they will more ably illustrate than any attempts of my own. It is with the greatest pleasure I am enabled to acknowledge, in this place, the kindness I received from my friends at Constantinople. Mr. Taylor, rii?:FACE. vu of the Gun Factory; Mr. Grace, of Galata; Mr. O'Brien, of Therapia ; Mr. Smith, the Architect; and Mr. Robertson, of the Mint, by their unwearying attentions, have caused me to look back upon Pera as a spot where some of my most pleasant hours were passed. To the latter gentleman, I am indebted for the charming water-colour sketch from which the frontispiece of this volume has been engraved. If I do not allude especially to the courtesy I expe- rienced at our Embassy, it is because the names of Sir Stratford and Lady Canning are already world- renowned for graceful hospitality. That my readers may gain a clearer notion of Constantinople than they have hitherto had, and be induced, by my statement of expenses and other practical matters in the Appendix, to make the tour; or that, haply bought at Malta, its perusal may beguile one or two of the hot lazy hours on the Levantine steamers, is the extent of my ambition with respect to the book now before them. London, April, 1850. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PACE The Depakture from Malta 1 CHAPTER II. On Board the Scamandue 8 CHAPTER III. Athens in Six Houe.s 17 CHAPTER IV. Smyrna 26 CHAPTER V. The First Day at Constantinople 39 CHAPTER VI. An Eastern Bath — Tjie Firbs at Pera .... 71 CHAPTER Vll. A Letter of Introduction —The Circu.s . ... 81 X CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. PAGE The Gun-Factory — The Mint — Stampa's Shop . 90 CHAPTEE IX. The Sebaglio and the Mosques 96 CHAPTER X. The Sultan's Visit to Mosque — The Dancing Deevishes 102 CHAPTEE XI. The Letter of Introduction again — A Party at Peea 110 CHAPTEE XII. The Bosphorus 115 CHAPTER XIII. The Slave Market 128 CHAPTER XIV. A Ride round Stamboul • . 133 CHAPTER XV. The Howling Dervishes — Robbery of Travellers 140 CHAPTER XVI. BUYUKDEBE 148 CHAPTER XVII. Pbtnce's Island, and its Popular Amusements 155 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER XVIII. PAGE Bazaaes genekallt — A Camel Eide — A Boat Builder 168 CHAPTEE XIX. Theeapia and Belgeade 175 CHAPTER XX. Depabtube foe Egypt 186 APPENDIX. Pbactical Details of the Expenses, Routes, and other mattebs connected with the toub . . 215 EBRATDM. Page 51, throe lines from top, /or "gasluiiack," read "yashm.'Mjk." V MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. CHAPTER I. THE DEPARTURE FROM MALTA. T six o'clock P.M., on Satur- day, August 25tb, 1849, the French Mediterranean mail steamer, Scconandre, left Malta harbour for Constan- '" ''■■"~'Z::>- -r - tinople ; after the proper ount of swearing, screaming, rushing about with- t a purpose, and general confusion, which charac- B ^< 2 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. terizes every species of action in Avhicb more than one Frenchman chances to be engaged. Lest my readers should imagine that I took the usual bustle attendant upon a vessel's departure for something more than common, the question put to the crew generally by an impertinent English sailor, (who was rowing from the Terrible to the Marina Gate,) of " Why don't you make a noise ?" may prove, however indistinctly, that the uproar was beyond what he con- sidered absolutely necessary. Although I had rested but a very short time at Malta, I left it with as much regret as though it had been a second home. For after a troublesome journey throucfh Baden, Lombardv, the Roman States, and Naples, at an especially troublesome epoch, subjected besides to every annoyance and imposition that police, passports, and joolitical quarantines could inflict on a traveller, the feeling was one of great comfort to catch the first sight of an English soldier on guard ; to walk under a gateway with the familiar lion and uni- corn — fighting for the crown as of old — boldly carved above it ; to see well known names over the shoj^s in every direction ; and to take halfcroAvns and half- pence in change, in as matter of fact a manner as though the shops had been in Oxford Street. Above all, it was pleasant to hear "God save the Queen" played by English drums and fifes, calling up the echoes from the glowing rocks of our far ofl' Mediter- ranean island. There was enough to interest one, before the steamer started, in the coup d'osil of the harbour — the noble ships of the line, and steam frigates, lying A MONTH AT COXSTANTIXOPLE, 3 lazily at anchor; the impregnable fortifications; the clean stone houses, dazzling in sharp outlines in the clear bright air ; and the odd mixture of all sorts of costumes from every corner of the Mediterranean, between Gibraltar and Beyrout. Besides this, there were two or three jDarties of dirty urchins — cousins Maltese of the boys who seek for halfpence in the mud of Greenwich and Blackwall — who came up in singularly fragile boats, and petitioned for pieces of money to be thrown into the harbour, that they might dive after them. One of these little fellows was suf- ficiently clever to attract general attention. His head was shaved all but a comical tuft over his forehead, giving him the appearance, in his party-coloured caleqom, of a small unpainted clown. When the piece of money was thrown into the water, and had sunk for a few seconds, he leapt in feet first after it, and he was never long in reapi:»earing at the surface, holding it up in his hand, always overtaking it before it had reached the bottom. These lads were suc- ceeded by a floating band of music, the members of which jilayed the Marseillaise and the Girondins' Hymn, out of compliment to the French steamer. But a shilUng brought them round in an instant to our National Anthem, and Rule Britannia; and as we left the port we heard the last chords, inappro- priately enough, of " Home, sweet home." They had evidently got up the latter to excite the people on their way home from India, in the quarantine harbour, but had immature notions of its application. For the last month the Mediterranean had been as calm as a lake — much more so, indeed, than that of b2 4 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. Geneva under certain winds — and the fine weather promised to continue. This was fortunate for several reasons ; the chief one being that the Scamandre was a very old boat, not calcuhited to encounter heavy seas ; and in foct was said to be making her last voyage before condemnation to short coasting or river ser- vice. With great exertion she could be propelled at the rate of something under eight knots an hour ; but the engineer respected the age of her machinery, and did not tax its powers. She was also very dirty, and the crew did their best to keep her in countenance ; at the same time, there were few places on deck to sit down upon, except such accommodation as the coils of rope, water-barrels, and chicken cooj)s afforded. It is far from my intention, however, in thus speaking of the old Scamcmdre, to run down the admirable service of French mail steamers inlying between Marseilles and the Levant generally. On the contrary, their extreme punctuality, their moderate fares, and their excellent arrangements, entitle them to the attention of all tourists to whom time and money are objects. There is as little distinction observable between the appoint- ments of their first and second class passengers, as on the foreign railways ; and as there is, on the other hand, a great difference in the price, and no servants, nor persons considered by the administration to be in any way unfit society for educated and well-bred people, are admitted into the cabin, this part of the boat is the most extensively patronised. We mustered about twenty passengers, and the first class cabin had not above four or five, who looked so dull and lonely, that we quite commiserated them. Indeed, A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 5 •one of them — a good-tempered American — preferred now and then coming to dine with us, " to know what was going on," as he said. There were two other classes still. The third, who had a species of cabin, "Still fore, to retire to at night; and the fourth, who bivouacked upon deck. And very pleasant was even this last way of travelling. I had come down a deck- passenger from Genoa to Leghorn ; from Leghorn to Civita Vecchia ; and from Naples to Malta, with a knapsack (which comprised all my luggage, and which I had carried many times across the Alps) for my pillow ; and I had learned to sleep as soundly upon planks as upon feathers. In the mild, warm nights, no bed-clothes were required; and in the finest j)alace in the world there was no such ceiling to a sleeping chamber as the deep blue heaven afforded, spangled wuth its myriads of golden stars, which gleamed and twinkled with a lustre unknown to us in northern England. As we left Malta, the passengers all sat down to dinner ; and for the first time we saw our companions for the next week. To begin with, there were three very pretty French girls. Two of these were cousins — Mademoiselle Virginie, and Mademoiselle Pauline, and they said they were going out to Bucharest as governesses ; but we subsequently discovered that they were milliners, from a quantity of finery they got rid of at Smyrna. The third, who was from Marseilles, had large dark eyes, and long black lashes, with a tinged cheek that suggested Andalusian blood. She was travelling with her brother, and another Frenchman, to whom she was engaged; both these 6 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. being employed in commerce at Marseilles. They had large beards, were great republicans, and kept very much to themselves and their cigarettes. There was also a French lady of a tolerably certain age, who had been in London, and somewhat astonished me at first with her intimate knowledge of all the leading town circles. She was too well educated for a lady's maid, and yet wanted the repose of perfect good breeding; so that I was much puzzled to place her, until one evening she told me that she had been two seasons, several years ago, in the company of French actors at the St. James' Theatre. We had an Englishman, who was on a speculating expedition to see if he could get some muskets into Hungary ; he was also a great phrenologist, and, generally, a thinking, determined man. A young Irishman who had thrown up his commission in a line regiment, and was going to join the insurgents in the above named country, not having yet heard of their betrayal and disjoersion : the amiable and intelligent Greek professor of the Harvard University in America, Mr. Sophocles, going home to his country after twenty years' absence ; and several persons engaged in the Levant trade, whose race was as difficult to be detected as their exact occupation — their language being as complicated a jumble of odd dialects, as their luggage was of strange bags and boxes. So that, amongst them all, the conversation was tolerably lively ; and when I went again upon deck after dinner, I found Malta fading away into a small blue hill ujDon the burnished horizon, and felt, for the first time, fairly off, on my journey to the Levant. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 7 The violet light lingered in the clear sky, high up above the east, long after the brilliant glow of sunset had died away behind the deep purple bars that flecked it as it disappeared. Then, one by one, the golden stars came out, and the bright crescent moon, looking like a symbol of the new land to which we were now hastening, was mirrored quivering in the sea, which scarcely rippled in the light evening breeze that swejDt over it. It was long, however, before the last gleam of light left the horizon, and I leant over the trembling stern of the old Scanumdre, watching its gradual departure with a feeling of pleasure in gazing on what I fancied might be the direction of England, which those only can appreciate, who, at a distance from home, have recalled its dear faces around them. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. CHAPTER II. ON BOARD THE SCAMANDRE. The cabin assigned to us was a small closet off the cMef one, containing ten berths, -with a space of floor about seven feet by five, which they surrounded. We were quite full, and when each passenger had brought in his carpet-bag or hat-box — and one light-hearted foreigner ajDpeared to be travelling from Marseilles to Smyrna with no more luggage than the latter con- tained — there was little room to turn round ; indeed, that cruel feat with a cat, traditionally performed to determine habitable space, was here j)ractically im- possible. So we were obliged to go to bed and get up one at a time ; and when undressed, we had to pack our clothes up at our feet as well as we could, only to find that they had all got down into the depths of the mattresses, and underneath them even, by the morning. We were fortunate, however, in having a species of stout cucumber frame for a sky- light, which could be lifted right away ; and but for this, there is no telling how any one of us might have survived asphyxiation to recount our voyage. For having crept on to my shelf, which was one of the lower ones, about ten o'clock, with a very stout A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. SF Armenian above me, who weighed so heavily on his sacking, that I was constantly knocking my head against it whenever I moved, I could not very readily get to sleep. The night was uncommonly sultry, even for the i^arallel of Malta, and I could not shake off a horrible impression that the stout Armenian would break through his sacking, and smother me at some remote j^eriod of the night. I could not get the fearful story I once read, of a man who was in a prison that got smaller every day until it crushed him, out of my head ; and this suffocating notion followed me into a troubled doze ; so that when I awoke about twelve, almost stifled by the heat, and looking up, saw the skylight above-mentioned, with the stars shining through the o^jening, I had some hazy impression that this was the last window of the six that had disap^Deared, one by one, and day by day, in the story alluded to. In an agony of terror, such as I had never before experienced, I scrambled from my berth, and springing on a portmanteau, con- trived to raise myself through the hatchway, and get a little breath of such air as was stirring. On the foreigners, the close and stifling heat appeared to make but a small impression. Not only had some of them gone to bed with the greater part of their clothes on, but one or two had even drawn closely together the blue curtains that ran on rods along the top of the berths, and so almost hermetically closed themselves up, to stew and swelter, as is their wont in diligences, steamers, and even rooms of hotels, or anywhere in fact, wherever an opportunity can be found of excluding such fresh air as might otherwise 10 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. intrude. To me the sensation was so indescribably distressing, that I shuiSed on some clothes, and pulling myself up through the opening, once more laid down upon the deck, amidst a dozen fourth class passengers, scarcely disturbed by the occasional visits of an enormous rat, who was scuffling about, picking up such few scraps as had fallen from the deck suppers. Here I remained until six in the morning, when I went below for my toilet. The four ladies had a cabin opposite to ours, and about the same size, but it had no hatchway. There was only a thick plate of ground glass to light it, and they had ojDened the door into the saloon for as much ventilation as they could get. They appeared to care but little about privacy — air was evidently the chief considera- tion; so that, as it happened, a man might have looked upon far more disagreeable objects than the dark-eyed Marseillaise, as she was lying in her berth and fanning herself, with her black hair floating about her pillow, and — if such may be mentioned — half-uncovered shoulders. She did not appear to think anything of the display, nor indeed did any body else — her Jiance and her brother included, with the latter of whom she kept conversing all the time he was dressing. I should be very sorry to class foreigners, generally, as a dirty set of people when left to themselves, but I fear there is too much reason to suppose that (in how many cases out of ten I will refrain from saying) a disrelish for a good honest plunging wash is one of their chief attributes. It requires but very little experience, in even their best hotels, to come to this conclusion. I do not mean in those houses A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. II where an iufliix of English has imposed the necessity of providing large jugs, baths, and basins; but in the equally leading establishments — patronized chiefly by themselves — in these, one still perceives the little pie-dish and milk -jug, the scanty d'oyley-looking towel, and the absence of a soap dish ; whilst it would be perfectly futile to ask for anything further. So, on board the Scamand re, this opinion was not weakened. They dipped a corner of a httle towel, not in the basin, but in the stream that trickled from the cistern as slowly as vinegar from any oyster-shop cruet, and dabbed their face about with it. Then they messed about a little with their hands; and then, having given a long time to brushing their hair, they had a cigarette instead of a tooth brush, and their toilet was complete. This description does not only apply to the Scamandre passengers, but to the majority of their race, whom I afterwards encountered about the Mediterranean. There was such a terrible noise still upon deck — such hauling about of huge chains and dashing them down, as though theatrical gaolers were constantly making their entrances or exits — such renewed squabbling, and stamping, and screaming ; and useless covering up and darkening of hatchways, that I was glad to get back upon deck, along which the rising sun came right from the bowsprit, to tell us again that we were at last going towards the East. And here it would have been more to our comfort, if the sailors had transferred to themselves, some of the pains they took to wash the decks. The engine pumped up the water into a tub, and this they dashed 18 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOrLE. about in the most reckless manner ; now flooding you away from the seat you had j)icked out upon a coil of ropes ; now almost washing the scared poultry clean out of their coops; and at last not leaving a spot so big as a foot-print to stand upon. So that when the ladies were dressed, we were not sorry to go down to breakfast, at three bells — which, (as everybody will say they knew,) is the nautical for half-past nine ; — and here a very good meal of omelettes, fish, cutlets, potatoes, fruit, and wine, awaited us. On board ship, breakfast or dinner is made to last as long as j^ossible — there is so little to occupy the rest of the time ; so that we did not complain of being kept waiting between the courses, but clutched eagerly at any subject of general conversation that was started. There was no lack of this amongst the French, at their end of the table; but it was astonishing to analyze it, and see what trivial subjects occupied them. Those accustomed to the clatter of a table d'hote must frequently have obser^-ed the same thing. In the present case, one of the i:»arty occupied the attention of the entire table for ten minutes with an anecdote, which he prefaced by saying, " II in est arrive quelque chose de Men singulihr quand fetais a Smyrne pour la dernier e fois ;" and then recounted his story at length, of which, in all honest truth, the following is the essence : — that he had been going by a shop and seen a large fish exposed for sale, and that, the same morning, he called upon a friend at breakfast- time, and saw a piece of the same sort of fish on the table. This was all ; but one would have thought from his energy and excitement, that a matter of the deepest A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 13 importance was connected with the occurrence, as he struck the table so violently to enforce its singularity, that the glasses jumjsed about. But his audience appeared amazingly astonished at the event, and said, " Tietis !" " Dieu r and " Voila, ce qii'est charmant !" ■with the liveliest enthusiasm. Encouraged by this, he next called the attention of the company to a peach that he had cut through, stone and all, as another affair '•' tres singidiere." There is no telling what other matters of interest he might have touched upon, had not our phrenologist turned the conversation by observing that the bust of Lycurgus, in the Koyal Academy, at Naples, was the image of Mazzini ; whereupon everybody went off at once about Eome and the Pope, Hungary, Louis Napoleon, Garibaldi, Russia, and the state of Venice, in such full cry, that it is a wonder how their mouths found opportunities to finish breakfast. It was, however, over at last, and then we all went upon deck, beneath an awning, to read, work, or smoke, until the heat was so intense that we could do nothing but lie down, completely overcome, in our berths, until dinner. This meal was a superior edition of breakfast ; and when it was over we went on deck again. The crew were lying lazily about, playing at cards and dominoes ; and a young Maltese, whom I found out to be the first flute in the orchestra of the Italian Opera at Constantinople, played several popular airs from Norma and Lucrezia Borgia. He was a nice intelligent fellow, and had established himself in a boat, upon deck, where he had his mattress and baggage, with a species of " bachelor's kitchen,'' in which he made coflee and soup, 14 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. cooked fish, boiled eggs, and concocted all sorts of dishes. As night came on, the fourth-class passengers arranged their different bivouacs — under the bulwarks, alongside the guns, and about. One group was especially effective. A young Greek girl, her brother, and a little child in their charge — all from Tunis and on their way to Athens, took up their position under the capstan, and looked so well — the man in his Albanian costume, and the girl in her petticoat, (for her night toilet only consisted in taking off her gown) that I did my best to make a sketch of them, which a more able hand has put on the w^ood. Gavarni himself could not have surprised some wearied masqueraders in a better j)ose. As soon as it became tolerably dusky, the fowls and ducks were assassinated by the light of a lantern, at the side of the paddle- A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 15 box, for the morrow's consumption ; and later, a sheep shared the same fate. Then, one by one, the passengers of the cabins crept below ; but the heat was still so far beyond anything jjossible to be con- ceived, that I got my knapsack, as before, and laid myself down again uj)on the deck, where I was soon fast asleep, being followed in my example by one or two more of my gasping fellow travellers. This night I am not aware that the large rat paid us a visit ; he was possibly attracted by the results of the fowl- murders on the other side of the boat. Anyhow, I slept undisturbed until after four in the morning. The progress of the next day presented little variety. We still had nothing but blue sky and sea to look upon, when we sought distraction beyond the bulwarks of the steamer. Mademoiselle Virginie was studying navigation with the Commissaire, in his cabin ; she was there nearly all day. Pauline was incessantly employed upon a jnece of crochet-work, which lasted all the journey, and got very dirty towards the end of it — being one of those fearfully uncomfortable things called anti-macassars, which hang on the backs of chairs, to make your hair rough and tumble over your head. About four o'clock in the afternoon we caught sight of Greece — high uj) over the larboard bow; and at dinner-time a pretty stiff breeze came on and the boat began to ride, which had the ad- mirable effect of keejjing the foreigners rather more quiet at table ; indeed, one or two left it. At dusk, we passed Cerigo, one of our English possessions — a melancholy reddish-rock island. It was dif- ficult to conceive a more dreary time than the officer 16 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOrLE. must have had of it who was stationed there with his handful of troops. I longed to have seen some small boat by which I could have sent him a bundle of Galifjnmm, and a few numbers of Punch that we had on board. Then the little concert on deck began again — the opera airs bringing up thoughts of Grisi, and Covent Garden and the London season, here, out and away, at one of the gates of the Archipelago ; and then, at nine o'clock we all began to think of retiring, I did not try the berths again ; but the Maltese lent me a coat, and lying down on this, with my knapsack as before, for a pillow, I was soon comfortably curled up with my own thoughts. I was, however, obliged to silence two runaway patriots, from some of the Italian States, who had been arguing loudly for an hour upon the affairs of Rome, without any chance of approaching a conclusion. When this was done, and the usual quantity of fowls had been killed, as on the preceding night, everything became quiet, and I was soon wandering in the world of dreams. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 17 CHAPTEK III. ATHENS IN SIX HOURS. On getting up at six in the morning of the 28th, we found land about us in all directions. Passing the islands of Poros and Egina — the former possessing a fine arsenal, with every capability for building large ships on English princiiDles, if the money could but be found ; and the latter, the remains of a noble temple — on our left, and Sunium on our right, we came to anchor in the Piraeus about half past nine. It was here that I found myself in the midst of the first Levantine fancy costumes, that attract the tra- veller's attention — the real well-known bright Albanian dress of the masquerades and panoramic paper hang- ings, to say nothing of Madame Tussaud's Byron. One after another, picturesque fellows, in clean white kilts, so to speak, and scarlet leggings, shot ofi' from the shore in light boats, which they rowed admirably, having adopted our own fashion from the people of the Ionian Islands. As soon as they had surrounded the bottom of* the steamer's ladder, they commenced fighting in a most furious manner to get tlie best position ; banging each other with boat-hooks and large sticks, which they had evidently brought with 18 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. them for the nonce, and chmbing up the sides of the packet, hke cats. In vain the crew of the Scamandre repulsed them — brushing them back into the swarm of boats, to get freshly beaten by their fellows on whom they tumbled — they were up again like wasps in an instant ; and the passengers had enough to do to avoid being involved in the battle, which continued even on deck, amongst the hotel touters. " I say, sir ! here, sir ! Hotel d'Orient is the best. Here's the card, sir — old palace — Murray says ver good," cried one of the costumes. "Hi!" screamed another; "don't go with him, master — too dear ! Come with me!" The parties were immediately engaged in single combat. " Hotel d'Angleterre a Athenes, tenu par Elias Polichronopulos et Yani Adamopulos," shouted another, all in a breath ; I copy the names from the card he gave me, for they were such as no one could remember. " Yes, sir ; good hotel," said his companion. " Look in Murray, sir — page 24 — there, sir : here, sir : look, sir !" " Who believes Murray ?" asked a fellow in plain clothes, with a strong Irish accent. " You would, if he put down your house in the handbook," replied another. They all appeared to have, more or less, a know- ledge of English. ^ At length, by dint of great strength of mind, com- bined with physical force, a few of us got into a boat, (having been told that the packet would wait until next morning in the harbour,) and we were soon A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. ] 9 Standing on the quay of the Piraeus, the town being a collection of small newly-built houses, consisting chiefly of merchants' stores, customs establishments, and agents' offices, with some inferior cafes, on one of which was written " Groffs-shoj)," intended, I sup- pose, as a translation of the more classical OlwnciXecv, on the other shutter. A nominal examination of the luggage of such of the passengers as were going to land took place on the quay, and every one was then allowed to go where he pleased. Just. then a good- looking fellow, in an Albanian dress, stepped up to our party and proffered his services as guide, for the day, to Athens. His name was Demetri Pomoni ; he spoke excellent English, and told us •' that he was a subject of Queen Victoria ; that he had lived in London, and that we should find his name in the eternal Murray, page 25." They had all got their position by heart. We engaged Demetri for the day, and hiring a shabby hack carriage, from a cluster of regular country railway flies, drawn uj) in cab-stand rank upon the port, we started off" at a dismal jjace for Athens, distant about five miles. It was very hot, and the road was very dusty — indeed the whole country about appeared parched up to the last degree of drought. We put up the windows, but the dust still got in, and before long our beards assumed a most venerable appearance. We stopped to bait at a little wine-shed half-way on the road, where there was a well, and where one or two Alba- nians lounging about under a rude trellis of grapes made an efiective " bit." Here we had some iced lemonade, which appeared to be all the establishment c 2 20 A MONTH AT CONSTANTIXOFLE. afforded, i,vith some lumps of Turkish sweetmeat; and then we dragged on again for another half-hour, in the heat and dust, until we were deposited at the door of the Hotel d'Orient — a fine house furnished in the English fashion, and formerly a palace, as the touter had informed us. Demetri now told us that he let horses with English saddles to travellers ; and that if we wished to see all the •' lions," we must hire some, otherwise there would not be time to do so. So we had up some stumbling ponies from the town, for which we were to pay a dollar each ; and then started to visit the wonders, and be back to dinner by five o'clock. "Athens in six hours" is rather quick work to be sure ; however, after I had been taken the round of the usual sights, I should have been sorry to have remained there much longer. But the exceeding beauty of the ruins can scarcely be overpraised ; albeit the degree of enthusiasm, real or conventional, with which one regards them, must depend entirely upon such early classical training as the traveller may have been fortunate enough to have undergone. Yet I doubt whether I could have gazed upon those graceful remains with greater delight than I did on this oc- casion, had I gone through any further preparation to visit them than had been afforded by an ordinary public school education. Apart from their histories and their associations — their lovely symmetry, the effect of their clean sandstone colour against the bright blue sky, their admirable position, and the horizon of finely swelling purple hills almost surrounding them, broken to the south-west by the silver harbour of the Piraeus, were quite sufficient to call up the most vivid A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 21 sensations of delight. Their beauty, also, was en- hanced by the picturesque people who idled about them — all was so artistic, so sunny, so admirably thrown together, that whichever way the eye was turned, it appeared to rest on the reahty of some exquisite drop-scene. Guardians are stationed where there is anything to knock off and carry away more portable than the Elgin marbles The interior of the temple of Theseus is used as a museum; and the fragments are of greater interest, even to the most ordinary traveller, than such as he may elsewhere encounter. Here we made a luncheon from some singularly fine grapes and fresh figs, with bread, sjDread on part of a column, and then proceeded to the Acropolis, which Demetri had properly kept for the last visit. From hence the view was most superb, but it wanted the relief of green. Everything for miles round was baked up. The channel of the Ilyssus was without water, and the barley which covers the undulating ground had all been cut, leaving only the naked hot reddish tracts of land. The guardians had a sort of habitation below the Proi)yl8ea, and cultivated a few vegetables in small artificial gardens, the leaves of which looked quite refreshing. Amongst the masses of marble ruins which the Turks had tumbled down from the Parthenon, to make cannon balls from, or grind up for mortar, several wild jilants trailed and flourished. One of these bore a green fruit which, being ripe, burst into dust the instant it was touched, however gently, by the foot ; and the guides appeared more anxious to call the attention of the visitors to this fact, than to the solemn glories of the Acropolis. 22 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. As we were standing before the Erectheum, Demetii said, " When I was in London, sir, I lived in Euston Square ; and I used often to look at the Caryatides at the side of St. Pancras Church, and think of this temple." It must have been a strong home feeling that called up associations of Athens and the Acro- polis, amidst the mud, stunted shrubs, metroiDolitan atmosphere, and omnibuses of the New Road! We had killed all our lions by five o'clock ; and, by making all use of our eyes and tongues, had become as well acquainted with the positions and appearance" A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 23 of the Tower of the Winds and the Arch of Hadrian ; the Areopagus and poHshed Anti-Malthusian slope ; the Stadium and the prison of Socrates, as Demetri himself. Our horses, too, were tolerably weary ; and so we returned to the hotel through Athens, which is as dirty, irregular, uninteresting a place as can well be imagined. An enormous village is a better term for it than an insignificant city. The dinner, to which six or eight of us sat down, was perfectly English. We had the luxuries of anchovy and cayenne with our fish, Harvey's sauce with our steaks, and a bottle of pale ale was gravely put down before me and my compatriots. Our plates and dishes had a British name on their backs, and our knives were accredited by " Deane, Monument Yard." One only comprehends to the full, under similar circumstances, the extent of business pertain- ing to certain of our London houses. The traveller's story of the English-built omnibus running from the city to the Parthenon, with the cad, named Themis- tocles, cr)ung " 'Cropolis, 'Rectheum !" and of the placard of Warren's Blacking, posted on the temple of Victory Apteros, may prove a truth yet. I strolled through some of the streets after dinner, and my companion, who was a smoker, was delighted at the quantity of latakia he could purchase for a few pence. Some people came up and offered curiosities for sale : these chiefly consisted of chaplets of shells from the Archipelago made up with little glass beads, and walking sticks and pipe tubes of Parnassus Blackthorn. Possibly the most novel feature of my stroll was the lettering on the shops. Sec, everj-where in the 24 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. familiar Greek character, hitherto only associated with my Merchant Tailors' School knowledge of the Diatessaron, Isocrates, and the Iliad, hut now used to betoken the store of tlie baker, the coffee-house keeper, and the bookseller. At one of the latter establishments I bought a child's first primer for twenty-five lepta — about twopence-halfpenny. The curiosity of seeing little urchins, who can scarcely sj^eak, puzzling out their Greek characters, must be as great as that which everybody experiences and notices upon first landing in France, on hearing the children squabbling in that language. It may not be out of place to give a page of the book I pur- chased: — AA^ABHTAPION nAIA.A rxiriA:^ *• /3a 7^ ^V l^ Ot KV \e fia ^o TTT] pv i>e Kl \pv TO yv (pa ve ^i KV TTOJ Xe TTtyw pa Xiyo) Xu>fia vepoy kyu} ydXa \1/U)fll \pdpi X"P« X«>' TLfMt) tiiOVJ] KOpi] f'xw ;//?';)'w TVpi ydra 'O paTTTtjg poLTTTti. — 'O ipwpag ^vpovii. — 'O "HXiog ^iyy€t. — "0 KTiffrrjQ KriZii. — '0 I3aecial fowls should be reserved for the next dish, and that an artful compound of eggs and onions, which he termed oeufs a la tripe, should supersede the omelettes ; and thus harmony was restored, and the day wore lazily on. Virgiuie and Pauline dressed and un- 28 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. dressed the baby every half-hour, and made it a little coat, amidst a pitiless storm of ladinage. The Mar- seilles brunette was lost in a volume of Alfred de Musset's poetry. I did not see what she was reading, but if congeniality had led her to reflect upon the Andalouse, her thoughts must have been more or less remarkable. Our phrenologist had fixed the American to a game of chess, played upon a little portable board, with card men that slipped into the squares, and were difficult to be distinguished ; and the rest of the folks sent the winged moments flying upon wreaths of cigar smoke, as they re-read old news- papers, or lay down in their berths. However, night came at last ; and when we awoke the next morning at daybreak, we were informed that we were approach- ing Smyrna. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 29 It was very pleasant to hear this — to be told that the land I saw close to us was Asia, and that the distant slender spires that rose from the thickly clustered houses were minarets — that I should have twelve hours to go on shore, and see real camels, fig- trees, scheiks, and veiled women ! And yet I could scarcely persuade myself that such was the case : that the distant Smyrna — of which I had only heard, in the Levant mail, as a remote place, burnt down once a year, where figs came from — was actually within a good stone's throw of the steamer. When the engines stopped, the boat was surrounded with light caiques, containing now all Turks, who clustered round the ladder in the usual fashion ; but they were more quiet and grave than the intruders of the Piraeus. Some were custom-house officials, others brought oflf fresh fruits, others meat, and some of the boats only held solemn old gentlemen of the real rhubarb-selling race, whose object was merely curiosity, and a more perfect enjoyment of their pipes. After breakfast, at which we had one of the most delicious melons I ever tasted, with a very thin smooth green rind, and white inside, bought from the boats, a valet de place was selected, and we went on shore ; entering the city from the port, along which the flags of the different consuls were hoisted, by an arched way. Of course the bazaars were the first attraction ; as a matter of course, our dragoman led us to them. And very novel and striking was the introduction to them. The shops, which were all open, were built of wood, on stone or brick basements, like the hairaques one may see nearer home, at Boulogne 80 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. Fair. They could be shut in by one enormous shutter, folding down from above, which, when pulled up, formed a sort of pent-house ; so that, as the thoroughfare w^as very narrow, there was not a space of above three or four feet between one of these and its opposite fellow. This was covered in by very light thin boards, almost like hurdles, and occasionally large pieces of canvas, or what was very picturesque, a thick-leaved vine, to keep out the sun. The floors of these shops were raised between two or three feet from the ground. On this a carpet was spread — usually one of the Turkish hearthrugs we are familiar with in England ; and here the master sat with his pipe, surrounded by his wares. Apart from the party-coloured and changing crowd which filled the thoroughfare, I was most struck with the wares exposed for sale — calling up the renewed indefinable feeling of pleasure at seeing things laid out to be bought at ordinary common-place prices, which we only knew at home as the products of long mysterious voyages from other quarters of the globe. Here, were huge morsels of the " best Turkey sponge," redolent of ocean depths, and heavy with the sea-sand that still filled their jsores : there, were baskets of yellow rhubarb, cakes of aromatic opium, and bags of fresh clammy dates, ready to burst with their very sweetness. Then we came to a perfumer's, where the otto of roses scented the air all round, even from its little thick gilded bottles with their small reservoir of essence ; where the musk purses and tablets also contributed their odour, and the rosaries hung about had their beads turned from dark and fragrant aloes- A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 31 ■wood. Anon were beautiful arms from Damascus — arabesqued and glittering blades, with jewelled handles and velvet-coloured sheaths, — curious and elaborately mounted pistols, and strangely-jDicturesque fire-arms, amongst which might haply be seen, as the greatest curiosity of all, to the vendor, a double-barrelled per- cussion gun from Birmingham. Then came rich carpets, and quilted coats of silk, scarlet caps, and costly pipes of every shape and fabric ; and then a seller of sherbet — real Eastern sherbet — at something more than a half-penny a cup ; or a dresser of ke- bobs, and pillaff, plying his trade in the very centre of the above-named rarities. In themselves, the shops most striking at first sight were those for selling glass lamps, such as were hung in the Mosques and Greek churches ; and slippers, of every bright colour, worked with thread of gold and silver. I have spoken of the gay crowds who jostled one another through the bazaars. Every passenger appeared to wear a fresh costume. Turks, Albanians, Persians, Egyptians, and Circassians, — merchants, scheiks, dervishes, slaves, and water- sellers, — with every variety of head-dress, from the simple scarlet fez to the tall black sheepskin cap, or the huge white or green turban, that looked several stories high, and might have served for the owner's store-room, — were jumbled up together in a strange kaleidoscope, as bewildering as it was attractive. One wanted several eyes to w^atch all that was going on at once ; and when a jangling train of fourteen or fifteen camels came blundering along the passage, the two sides of which they almost swept with their packages, 32 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. the delight of all our party was complete. Everything was so bright, so novel ; everything so much more than realized our expectations, — not a very common occurrence with travellers, — that I do not believe throughout the future journey any impressions were conveyed more vivid than those we experienced during our first half hour in the bazaars of the sunny, bustling, beauty-teeming Smyrna. The appearance of our guide put all the merchants on the alert. One handsome, merry-faced fellow accosted me in excellent English, as follows : — " How dy'e do, sir : very well ? that's right. Look here, sir; beautiful musk jDurse; very fine smell. Ten piastres." (A piastre is worth two pence and a fraction.) "How did you learn to sjieak English so well ?" I asked. "All English gentlemen come to me, sir," he said, " and I learn it from the ships, and from the Americans. Shake hands, sir : that's right. Buy the purse, sir." " How much is it?" asked one of our party. " Six piastres," replied the brother of the merchant, who also spoke English, but had not heard the first price. " And you asked me ten ! " I said to the other. " So I did, sir," he replied with a laugh ; " then if I get the other four, that's my profit. But what's four piastres to an English gentleman — nothing. It's too little for him to know about. Come — buy the purse. What will you give ? " Five piastres," I answered. "It is yours," he added, directly, throwing it to me. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 33 " What a merry fellow you are," I observed. **Yes, sir; I laugh always: very good to laugh. English gentlemen like to laugh, I know : laugh very well. Look at his turban — laugh at that !" He directed our attention to an old Turk, who was going by with a most ludicrous and towering head- dress. It was diverting to find him making fun of his compatriot. " Good bye, sir," he said ; " come and see me when you come back, and buy some figs for London. Good figs, sir. Mr. Mille knows me at the Hotel, and Mr. Hanson knows me : everybody knows me. Good voyage, sir." As we left the bazaar, one of our companions had a letter to deliver to a merchant; and, whilst waiting for him in the court of the house, I saw nearly two hundred people packing figs in drums for the English market. This court was at the end of a long alley of acacia and fig trees, under the shade of which the packers took their seats. They first carried them from the warehouses, on the floor of which I saw hundreds of bushels, brought in on camels, from the country. They were then pulled into shape — this task being confided to females; and, after that, sent on to the men who packed them. They gathered six or seven, one after the other, in their hand ; and then wedged them into the drum, joutting a few superior ones on the top, as we have seen done with straw- berries. Each packer had a basin of, I believe, sea water at his side, with some leaves floating in it. When the drum was full, three or four of these leaves were placed on the top, and a little boy took it away to be D 34 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. fastened up. A man gave me some of the figs to eat. they "were between ripe and dry, and had none of the saccharine efflorescence about them that we see on our dessert figs in England. Tlie people at work were Greeks ; and the girls were mostly very hand- some. The next scene of interest we arrived at was a large enclosure, with a fountain in the centre, which appeared to be the rendezvous of all the caravan camels. They were there by hundreds — not brothers to the broken- spirited, mangy, solitary animal, who whilome went about our English villages with a monkey and a dancing bear ; nor relations to that consumptive, dull-eyed, ragged beast, whom I remember to have seen in every procession at Astley's, of every locality where a camel could not have been supposed, by any outlay of the treasures he carried on his back, or facility of land or water communication, to have pos- sibly arrived — I would not swear that he was not introduced into the Battle of Waterloo, and Mazeppa — but rugged, noisy, muscular brutes, not moving out of the way for anybody, and sufficiently independent and obstinate, when they chose, to knock over all sympathy with their popularly-acknowledged patient and enduring character. For your camel is a great obtainer of pity, under false pretences. He can be as self-willed and vicious as you jilease ; and his bite is particularly severe. When once his powerful teeth have fastened, it is with the greatest difficulty that he is forced to relinquish his hold. The pitiful noise, too, which he makes upon being over-laden, is all sham, as small natural historians remark. It proceeds from sheer idleness, rather than a sense of A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 35 oppression. With many camels, if you make pretence to put a small object on their backs — a tile, or a stone for instance — whilst they are kneeling down, they begin mechanically to bellow, and blink their eyes, and assume such a dismal appearance of suffering and anguish, that it is perfectly painful for susceptible natures to regard them. And yet, when their load is well distributed and packed, they can move along under seven hundred weight. Of the camels we saw in this square, some were being unpacked, others had just arrived from the interior, and others were kneeling down to have their new burthens adjusted, moaning most grievously the whole time. The loads were built up very high, and fastened to their backs with a contrivance like an enormous clothes-peg. This rude harness was, for the most part, adorned with shells, worsted tufts, and other finery — the object of this being to divert the glance of the Evil Eye — and each carried an ill-toned bell. Their riders either vaulted across their backs as they knelt down, or sprang up by putting the left foot in the bend of their powerful necks, and so climbing on to the hump, as they w^ere going on. When there, they twisted their legs round a species of pummel, rising from what cannot be termed a saddle, and then went on their way, guiding the animal by hitting him with a stick on the side of the head oppo- site to that direction which they wished him to take. Our guide did not have much of a sinecure this day. From the camelry we went on to a mosque — a small edition of St. Sophia to be spoken of hereafter. No firman was requisite to enter. A few piastres D 2 36 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. dispelled all Mahommedan prejudices, and allowed the feet of the Giaour to press the sacred matting : but we -were obliged to take off our shoes, and leave them at the door. This edifice was not very striking. The chief decorations, consisting of common glass lamps, ostrich eggs, and horse-hair swishes, were of a trumpery character. One old gentleman, in a huge white turban, was droning out some verses of the Koran, on a raised platform, and an idiot was curled up in a corner ; these, with our party, comprised the congregation. We next went on to the Slave Mar- ket, which was held in a hot court-yard, with a tree in the centre. Two black men, a black woman with a baby, and a little boy, were its only occupants ; and they had squatted down together in the fierce sun, until their brains must almost have dried up and rattled, like nuts, in their skulls. The men grinned at us, and held out their hands for money ; the woman took no notice, but continued unconcernedly nursing her baby ; and the boy nestled in the dust, and played with it. There was nothing to excite compassion ; in fact, the Slave Market was pronounced a failure. One of our companions tried to get up a little virtuous indignation, and began to talk about the degraded con- dition of human beings, with other Exeter-Hall con- ventionalities ; but he could not excite the sympathies of the party, and the American having made a daring observation to the effect that if he saw one of these slaves and an elephant, side by side, he should think the latter the more intelligent of the two, we all hurried out to stojo the argument which was evidently impending. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 37 From the Slave Market we were taken a long, hot, up-hill walk to the ruins of the castle on Mount Pagas, from which the view, fine as it was, hardly compensated for the trouble. Thence descending, and passing some cemeteries and jjublic fountains, we came to the outskirts of the city, which consist chiefly of gardens, j)roducing olives, oranges, raisins, and figs, irrigated by creaking water-wheels, worked by donkeys. At one of these I saw a droll contrivance. The donkey, who went round and round, was blinded, and in front of him was a j)ole, one end of which was fixed to the axle, and the other slightly drawn towards his head-gear, and there tied ; so that from the spring 38 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. he always thought somebody was pulhng him on. The guide told me that idle fellows would contrive some rude mechanism, so that a stick should fall upon the hind quarters of the animal at every round, and so keep him to his work, whilst they went to sleep under the trees. We returned to the port through the Armenian quarter of the town, where the houses are European in their style, and well built. At the Hotel des Deux Augiistes, we sat down to a capital dinner ; and after- •wards, in the cool evening, walked about the Frank quarter of the town, and were well repaid by the sight of scores of beautiful Greek girls, sitting at their doors and peeping from their windows, in all the streets. An intelligent Hungarian, whom we met at the tahle- dilute, accompanied us. He was evidently very po- pular wdth the fair Smyrniotes ; for nothing but bright smiles and laughing eyes greeted him in every direction. Yet he knew his value : for he told me that, on a fair average, there were fourteen girls to every eligible young man, in Smyrna ; which was a sad prospect indeed ! At length, the time came for us to re-embark. With the solemn chant of the Muezzims calling the faithful to prayers from the minarets, sounding over the city, •we bade good-night to Smyrna. And then, as I crept down to our old cabin in the Scamaiidre, and that venerable boat once more got into action, as her joints warmed up, all the events of the day appeared like some bright dream. But the recollection of the dream is still vivid; nor is it likely soon to pass away. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 30 CHAPTER V. THE FIRST DAY AT CONSTANTINOPLE. I FOUND, next morning, we had taken in some more passengers at Smyrna. Going up upon deck, I nearly tumbled over two old Turks, who had spread their carpets towards Mecca, and were going through all those curious performances which compose the prayers of a Mussulman. The most difficult of these — which they achieved with wonderful agility for two such old gentlemen — consisted in falling suddenly on their faces, and then getting up again solely by the agency of their feet — as we see boys do, when their arms are put back over a stick to play at cock-fighting, which this certainly beat. Then they repeated it, and recovered themselves in a similar manner, always going through the feat twice, and preluding it by bending down their heads with their hands on their knees, as if going to ' make a back.' Nothing put them out. The sailors were hauling ropes about, and arranging baggage; and now and then stumbling against them, but they went through the entire pro- gramme as composedly as if they had been quite by themselves. This day we entered the Dardanelles about noon, 40 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. and joassed a great many ships of all countries — more, indeed, than I have seen at the entrance to the Thames — beating up towards the Sea of Marmora. In two hours, we anchored for a while between the two famous castles of Europe and Asia, to land the mails, and transact other business, at a dreary little town close to the former fort, known as Chanak-Kalessi to the Turks, and as the Dardanelles to us. The people put off in boats, and brought rude pottery for sale, made here^ to a great extent. The traffic was principally in tall, and not ungraceful water-jugs, ornamented with gold leaf; but I bought a bottle, made like a stag, as a present for a friend — certainly the ugliest thing I ever saw in my life. We had a discussion whilst waiting here, about the story of Hero and Leander, but no one knew where to look for Sestos and Abydos ; nor is the course the young lover took at all decided u]3on. Lord Byron crossed where we were now lying. He came over diagonally with the current, which made the distance about four English miles from starting to landing, although the Hellespont here is not much more than A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 41 a mile across; and the distance was accomplished in an hour and ten minutes. Had we waited longer, I should have tried it myself, with the American ; for there did not appear any remarkable difl&culty about it — certainly nothing to make its accomplishment a matter of record. On starting again, we were accompanied by a shoal of very large fish, with sharp noses and fins ; they kept up with the steamer for a great distance, leaping about in a curious fashion, and racing, as it were, in pairs, until they all disappeared together with a white gleam, and left us once more to our own devices. The ships continued all along the Dardanelles, and there was very little else to engage our attention, the low hills that form the coast on either side being very bare and monotonous. Indeed, if a little scandal had not been started about Virginie's prolonged disappear- ance after dinner, and subsequent discovery in the commissaire s cabin, I do not know how we should have got through the evening. Yet we all sat on deck until a late hour that evening, for it was the last of our voyage, and a cool wind coming down from the Euxine made it very pleasant. At half-past seven the next morning, the first of September, we caught our first sight of Constantinople, with its white buildings and minarets glittering in the sun, at the extremity of the Sea of Marmora. I was not sorry to find the end of my journey approaching; and there was something very refreshing in the anticipation of an Eastern bath and regular bed-room, after the contracted arrangements for washing, and the crowded berth-cabin of the Scamandre. The 42 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. Turks and Greeks bundled up their luggage into bales ; the other passengers got anxious about their eflfects, and kept hovering round the hold ; and the French girls came forth in their smartest toilettes. Everybody was anxious to land. I must confess that the first view of Stamboul, as we neared that part of the city, certainly disappointed me. I had heard and read such extraordinary accounts of the beauty of the coup-d' oeil, and my expectations had been raised to such an absurd height, that although I knew I was staring hard at the Mosque of St. Sophia, and that the dark cypress gi'ove coming down to the blue water before us surrounded the Sultan's Hareem, and that this blue water was the Bosphorus, my first exclamation to myself was, " And is this all !" But when we rounded the Seraglio Point, and slowly glided into the Golden Horn, where the whole gorgeous jDanorama opened upon me in its unequalled loveliness, the feeling of wonder and admiration became absolutely oppressive. I had never been so strangely moved before but once — when I looked down upon London, by night, from a balloon. To speak of the magnificent domes and lofty minarets that detached themselves from the amphi- theatres of buildings as we proceeded, and stood in clear white relief against the bright blue sky ; or of the quaint houses, and intermingled foliage, and graceful cypress groves that climbed to the very summits of the hills, and stretched far away in the distance — of the thousand ships that the noble harbour brought alongside the very streets — the fairy palaces commencing to border the Bosphorus — the light A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 43 gilded wherries that darted by in all directions amidst the tame sea-birds who rode upon the clear rippling water — the gaily-coloured crowds upon the bridge — the vivid sunlight — the exhilarating atmosphere — above all, perhaps, the sudden change from the ennui of a sea- voyage — is only to repeat what everybody has said who has ever visited Constantinople — to anticipate what everybody will say on future arrivals. And yet, perfectly aware of this, I cannot stay my pen in an attempt to convey some rude notion — to produce some coarse rough sketch of the enchanted scene that surrounded me. The buildings on either side of the Golden Horn — for so is the harbour termed, which runs up between the Turkish and Frank divisions of Constantinople — these quaint toy-box houses came to the very waters edge ; so closely, indeed, that the lowest seemed to float on it. There was a light imsubstantiality about them — a tottering half tumble- down look, that harmonized admirably with the architecture of the mosques and pinnacles. One regular Thames-side eight-storied warehouse, would have spoiled the whole picture. Behind us, at Scutari, on the Asiatic side, the eye still fell on minarets, domes, and palaces ; cypress groves, and leafy terraces, with a background of blue hills, and the picturesque little steeple, known as Leander's, or the Maiden's Tower, rising from the bright sea in front. Everywhere, the waterside rows of buildings were seen through forests of ships, the lines of which were agreeably broken by the slanting spars of the felucca-rigged vessels which formed the greater portion of those at anchor. In the middle of 44 A MONTH AT COXSTAXTINOPLE. the stream were ten or twelve noble men-of-war — the largest of the Ottoman navy ; nearer, was a fleet of steamers, of all sizes, from the fine boats of the Pen- insular and Oriental, or Austrian Lloyd's, ComiDany, to the little craft that went to Therapia, or Prince's Island every day. The port was swarming with life ; the men in the caiques were moving about as thickly as one has seen boats at a rowing match, yet not more than was the ordinary custom. Heavy barges, manned by Arabs, were being pulled up and down the Golden Horn. Lighters, filled with melons, skins, grain, and bales, were slowly nearing the quays ; and where the landing places were, there was such a jam of wherries — each forced as nearly as possible up to the stairs — that it was marvellous how they were ever extricated with their passengers. All was picturesque form and motion ; and over the entire view was thrown such a glorious flood of sunny light — sparkling in the water, dazzling as it was thrown back from the minarets, and twinkling on the humblest casements — that for once, and once only, the realiza- tion of some glittering scene from childhood's story- book visions appeared to be accomplished. There was very little confusion here on disembark- ing; and no seriousfighting amongst the hotel keepers, as at Athens ; for the passengers had mostly settled in their own minds where to go to, during the voyage. The good-tempered, intelligent Misseri — Eothen's Misseri — collected his intended inmates into a large caique for the Hotel d'Angleterre ; and young Destu- niano (whose father was formerly the best dragoman at Constantinople, and now keeps the Hotel d'Europe) A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 45 followed. I was with the latter, being anxious not to break up a little party we had formed during the voyage. As we were putting oflf from the old Scamandre, a gilded barge approached us, in which were sitting two imposing Turks, officers of the customs. Their proper duty was to examine our luggage, but a bribe of three piastres — a little more than sixpence for the party — satisfied all their scruples. They gravely received this ; and then, not proud, saluted our party, and went away to another boat. I must own my ears tingled when I reflected that my own share of a pecuniary offering to these noble and gorgeous gentlemen had been under a penny. But there was little need for any delicacy upon the matter. It appears perfectly understood that the Customs at Constantinople are established for individual benefit; and thus not a dollar of any kind of duty ever finds its way into the Sultan's treasury. We landed at the Tophane stairs, and at once found enough to occupy all our attention. First of all, five or six Tui'kish women got out of a boat just before us, veiled up to their eyes, and looking very like the nuns in the incantation scene of Robert the Devil, before they throw off" their dresses ; only these had black skirts. Then there were a great many sellers of fruit and cakes — the former consisting of grapes, honestly and literally as large as plovers" eggs, and the latter of a species of 2)ancake. Their appearance, with their little tables, very like what the pea-and-thimble men used to carry at the races, was very novel and amusing. Directly, down came a string of mules laden 46 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE, ■with rubbish from the buildings at Pera ; and they un- loaded tliemselves by going down on their haunches, when they reached the landing, and allowing their panniers at one end to slide off. Next, some sturdy porters, or Hamals, seized upon our luggage. These fellows, who were mostly past the prime of life, ■wore their knots half way down their backs, and appeared capable of carryingimmense weights. Pre- ceded by them we set off, jostled by crowds in every variety of striking costume, and picking our way amongst the half-wild dogs, who lay about the streets by scores, and did not get out of the "way for any one. A little plan of the manner in which Constantinople is divided, will at once give the reader a clear notion of its districts. ■* * Stamhoul may be termed Constantinople proper, inhabited by the Turks, and containing the Seraglio, chief Mosques, great public offices, bazaars, and places of Government and general business. It is the most ancient, and most important part, par excellence. Galuta is the Wapping of the city : here we find dirty shops for ships' stores, merchants' counting-houses, and tipsy sailors. Tophane is so called from the large gun-factory close at hand. Both these suburbs are situated at the base of a very steep hill ; the upper part of which is Pera., the district allotted to the Franks, or foreigners, and containing the palaces of the ambassadors, the hotels, the European shops, and the most motley population under the sun. Scutari is to Stamhoul, as Birkenhead to Liverpool ; and is in Asia. It is important in its way, as being the starting-place of all the caravans going inland. There jire some other districts of less interest to the average tourist. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 47 As soon as we left the landing-place, and entered the steep lane that leads uy^ to Pera, all the enchant- ment vanished. In an instant, I felt that I had been taken behind the scenes of a great ' eflfect.' The Constantinople of Vauxhall Gardens, a few years ago, did not diflFer more, when viewed, in front from the gallery, and behind, from the dirty little alleys bor- dering the river. The miserable, narrow, ill paved 48 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. thoroughfare did not present one redeeming feature, — even of picturesque dreariness. The roadway was paved with all sorts of ragged stones, jammed down together without any regard to level surface ; and encumbered with dead rats, melon-rinds, dogs, rags, brickbats, and rubbish, that had fallen through the mules' baskets, as they toiled along it. The houses were of wood — old and rotten ; and bearing traces of having been once pain ted red. There had been evidently never any attempt made to clean them, or their win- dows or doorways. Here and there, where a building had been burnt, or had tumbled down, all the ruins remained as they had fallen. Even the better class of houses had an uncared-for, mouldy, plague-imbued, decaying look about them ; and with their grimy lat- tices, instead of windows, on the upper-stories, and dilapidated shutters and doors on the ground-floors, it was difficult to imagine that they were inhabited by people who had such notions, according to report, of home and cleanliness, that they never sought for society apart from their own divans, or harems, and never were fit for prayers until they had, more or less effectively, washed themselves. We found our hotel possessed the double advantage of being a stone building, and completely insulated — a great comfort in so combustible a district as Pera. 1 got a good bedroom that overlooked the Bosphorus, part of the Golden Horn, and a few of the Mosques ; came to an understanding about expenses, — which is always advisable ; had the inexpressible comfort of washing and dressing in a large well-appointed room, after the confined closet of the Scamandre ; and then A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 49 we all sat down to breakfast, learning that everything was to be had in Constantinople but fresh butter. Some white bitter compound, 2)erfectly uneatable, was produced once or twice during my stay ; but it was so unpalatable, that we usually preferred * Irish ; ' and at last came to eat, with a relish, what many of our English servants would have turned u^ their noses at. The tea was excellent, and so were the cutlets ; but there was some wine on the table — a native pro- duction, I believe, — like very bad still champagne, sickened with coarse moist sugar, to which I jjreferred the grapes in their natural state. There was the most wonderful waiter at this hotel that I ever saw — a tall, thin, lath-built fellow, from Venice, who sprang and darted about the salle-a- manger in such an extraordinary manner — changing the dish of meat into that of figs, with such strange rapidity ; waiting upon twenty people at once ; banging out at one door, and directly afterwards in at another quite oj)posite, and wearing such an odd tight dress, that we christened him Arlechino. He poured out tea for everybody, drew a dozen corks, shot into the kitchen, came back and said he had thrashed the cook who was a Greek, frightened two or three guests of nervous fibre so, by his activity, that they were afraid to ask for anything — in fact, did so much, that I don't suppose anybody would have been astonished to have seen him take a leap, and disap- pear through the dial of a clock, or the centre of a picture, or any other of those strange points which har- lequins generally select for their sudden departures. Breakfast over, by this accomplished fellow's assist- E 60 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE, ance, I prepared to go forth with the impatience of feeling that the world of Constantinople was all before me. I found a ready dragoman in the hall, — another Demetri, and a Greek also, as may be supposed, — and with him I started down another steep hill towards Galata. This thoroughfare was just as narrow and dirty as the former one ; but it was bordered with shops kejJt by Italians, Greeks, and Frenchmen. There were many English articles for sale, — stockings, cotton prints, cutlery, and blacking. In one window was a number of Punch, with one of Mr. Leech's clever cuts, attracting the puzzled gaze of some Levantines : at a corner was a sign-board, with *' Furnished Apartments to Let " painted on it ; and on the wall of a small burying-ground a Turk sat with a tray of Birmingham steel pens on cards. The number of veiled women, straggling and shuffling about, in their large awkward yellow Wel- lington boots, — for I can describe them in no better fashion, — first engaged my observation. The greater portion of them were clad in a cumbersome wrapper, or feri- gee, of what appeared to be coarse brown serge, entirely concealing the figure. When it was drawn up a little, one could see the naked skin of the leg just appearing above the foot; for socks and stockings are unknown to the inmates of the hareems. They thrust these odious boots into slipshod slippers with- A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 51 out heels when they go abroad ; and the difficulty of keeping them on produces a most ungainly shuflQing in-toed gait. The veil, or gashniack, is of one or two pieces, arranged as shown in the illustration. It is now made of such fine material, — a simple layer of tarla- tane in most instances, — that the features are per- fectly discernible through it ; and the more coquettish beauties allow something more than their eyes to be seen, where it divides. These last features are won- derfully fine — dark, heavy-lashed, and almond-shaped; and they derive a strange force of expression from their contrast with the veil. Their brilliancy is aided by a dark powder introduced under the lid, which blackens its edges. The women wear no gloves, but stain the ends of their fingers, and palms of their hands, (as well as, I believe, the soles of their feet,) with a dye called Hernia. This tinges them a deep tawny red, and the efiect is most unseemly, making them anything but the " rosy-fingered " beauties which some writers have laboured to pass them ofi" as. Their complexions are pallid and unhealthy-looking, which may, in some measure result from want of legitimate exercise ; and they become prematurely aged. There is not, I imagine, a more perfect representation of a witch to be found, than an old Turkish woman affords, when seen hobbling, with a long stafij along the dingy alleys of Constantinople. Descending the steep narrow lane, we passed an '>ld gateway which divides Pera from Galata, and then the road became steeper and narrower still. But the same busy throng kept slipping and jostling, and hurrying up and down; although the absence of car- E 3 53 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. riages allowed an odd kind of silence to prevail,^ such as has struck one in a great London thorough- fare when the pavement has been taken up. Now and then, a horseman clattered and stumbled over the rough pavement, in immi- nent danger as regarded him- self, his horse, and the foot pas- sengers : and occasionally some mules increased the confusion. But everything was carried by the hamals — even the blocks of stone from the port, to be used for the buildings high above us ; and at last, I met one toiling uj) with a sick sailor on his back, going to a hospital. A few minutes brought us down to the bridge of boats, leading from Galata to Stamboul, across the Golden Horn, which is here somewhat over a quarter of a mile in breadth. From this point, one of the most superb views in Constantinople is to be obtained, — more comprehensive than that from the steamer, as the continuation of the jiort towards the arsenal is added to the range. Emerging from the close and dirty Galata, the bright panorama fairly takes one's breath away. The wondrous and dazzling confusion of minarets, domes, towers, ships, trees, ruins, kiosks, and warehouses, with the sparkling water below, more intensely blue than the sky above, is beyond descrip- tion. The ever-changing kaleidoscope, however, that the bridge affords, may be better dealt with. One has only to lean against the rails for five minutes. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 53 and he will see some specimen of every known oriental race pass by him. Take your place, with your back to the arsenal, near where the good-tempered little cripi^le has jjermission to sit and ask for alms, (as the blind girl in the large straw hat, and the man •with the ragged vulture, used to do on the Pont des Arts at Paris,) and make all use of your eyes. First observe how the poor mannikin at your feet has chosen his place carefully. He knows that some paras will come in change from the toll, and he waits for them, near the gate, before you put them in your pocket. At the other end of the bridge he would have no chance of this small money. And now watch the folks before you, and let me be the showman. First of all comes a j)erson high in command, upon horseback. He has adopted, in common with his Sultan, the European dress — the red fez alone dis- tinguishes him from any other foreigner you might chance to meet. His servant, in Turkish costume, runs by his side, and can keejD up with him for any distance. The trappings of the horse are magnificently embroidered with tinsel and gold, and they carry your mind back to the days when you saw the combat between Kerim and Sanballat, in Tbnour the Tartar. The old Turk with the mighty turban, who meets him, dislikes the European dress and the simple fez ; he foresees, in the change from the lumber- ing costume of himself and fathers, the spirit of advancing civilization which must shake the most time-honoured observances of the Eastern world, in another age : and he knows, with sorrow to himself, that every paddle-wheel which churns the waters of 54 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. the Bosj)horus, prodaces, by its revolutions, others almost imperceptible, but no less certain, in his social and political state. He clings, however, to his religion and his Koran : that will always endure, for the wily impostor who drew up the Mahommedan code so flattered the passions of his followers, that their allegiance was certain as long as human nature remained unchanging. There is loud musical female laughter now heard, and an odd vehicle crosses the bridge, drawn by a jaded horse. We have no conveyance like it in England : nor possibly is there its fellow out of Tur- key. It has no seats ; but on cushions in its interior those dark-eyed beauties are sitting, — pale Circassian girls, and inmates of the hareem of some great man. The carriage halts in front of you, to allow a train of mules, carrying planks, to pass on their way to Pera, and you can see the inmates plainly. One of them stares fixedly at you : you look again, and she is not angry — a few years ago, you would have been sent A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 55 away. She only draws back, but she still keeps her eyes on you — wondrous large-pupiled eyes, in whose depths your own vision appears to lose itself. Then she speaks to her companions, and just as the vehicle moves on, they all three join in another burst of ringing laughter, and leave you to debate whether an uncom- paniable beauty — to say nothing of three — can be regarded as a jewel or a bore, in a man's household. All this time the tide of foot passengers has been flowing on. Here are some Turkish soldiers : untidy- looking fellows, in blue coats and white trowsers, still with the red fez. A cavass, or policeman, is with them. He wears a surtout, j)istols are in his belt, a sabre at his side, and his breast is ornamented with rows of cartridges : they are all going to take up some unfortunate wight. He is followed by a Dervish — one of those who dance, on certain days, at Pera : he also keeps a shop in Stamboul. The other way comes a group of keen Armenian merchants, each swinging a chaj)let of beads about, or counting them, restlessly, and half un- consciously, with his finger. This will be a feature you cannot fail to notice before you have been an hour in Con- stantinople. The chaplet, or tesbeh, con- tains ninety-nine wooden beads, divided into three rows by little oblong pieces of turned wood. It is used in certain forms of the Mohammedan religion ; but the active minds of the Armenian and Greek traders require something to expend their irritability upon, and so they all carry these beads, constantly whirling them 50 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. about, or rapidly reckoning them up, by twos and threes, all the while they are conversing or smoking. Amongst the crowd you see porters ; water-carriers, or Sakas ; cake-men, or Lokumjees ; native couriers, or Tatars, who will take you for a certain sum, everything in- cluded, to Bagdad, if you please; and, bending beneath their bas- kets, are grape-sellers, with the beautiful fruit we have before noticed — the chow-oosh-iizume, as it is pronounced, and which you should always ask for. Now two trains of mules, laden with firewood and barrels, have met, and there is great confusion, which the drivers con- siderably increase. On the water below, there is equal bustle. The eighty thousand caiques, said to be plying about Constantinople, must necessarily get, at times, in each other's way ; and our own " bargees" would pale before the riot and swearing that begin when such takes place. Here a heavy boat, filled with country people, is going up the Bosphorus : there two steamers are lying, all ready to start from the bridge — one for Prince's Islands, and the other for Buyukdere. The dogs sleep about the bridge just the same as in the streets, and do not move for anybody. Little Greek children, taught to beg with a winning smile and courtesy, instead of the whining cant of our mendicants, get immediately before you ; and the distant appearance of a camel or two at the Stamboul end of the bridge, and a A MONTH AT COXSTANTINOrLE. 57 buffalo drove at the other, with the opposition mules still in the centre, promises such an awkward ren- contre, that our best plan is to get away as soon as possible. But you will often return to this Galata bridge, and always find amusement in watching its ever-changing objects. My guide took me on, through the narrow crooked streets of Stamboul — which are certainly a trifle cleaner than those of Pera — towards the chief bazaar. He was anxious to prove that he was doing his duty ; and showed and told me so much that my head was soon in an absolute whirl. "Here's where they cut the heads off," he said, in somewhat more difficult English than I care to distress the reader with ; "just here, where these two streets meet, and the body is left here a day or so, and some- times the dogs get at it. Not many executions now — only English subjects." There was something very startling in this informa- tion, until it was explained. By " English subjects," he meant the emigrants from Malta and the Ionian Islands — natives of those places, who bear the worst characters of all the graceless scamps forming, un- fortunately, a large proportion of the Pera population. There had not, however, been an execution for more than a year, with all the popular talk of Turkish scimitars and sacks. " All Enghsh gentlemen," continued Demetri, " think they cut off heads every day in Stamboul, and put them, all of a row, on plates at the Seraglio Gate. And they think people are always being drowned in the Bosphorus. Not true. I know a fellow who is a 58 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. dragoman, and shows that wooden shoot which comes from the wall of the Seraglio Point, as the place they slide them down. It is only to get rid of the garden rubbish. Same with lots of other things." Demetri was right. To be completely desillusion^ on certain points, one has but to journey with a determination to be only affected by things as they strike you. Swiss girls, St. Bernard dogs, Portici fishermen, the Rhine, Nile travelling, and other objects of popular rhaj)sodies, fearfully deteriorate upon 23ractical acquaintance. Few tourists have the courage to say that they have been " bored," or at least disappointed, by some conventional lion. They find that Guide-books, Diaries, Notes, Journals, &c. &c., all copy one from the other in their enthusiasm about the same things ; and they shrink from the charge of vulgarity, or lack of mind, did they dare to differ. Artists and writers will study effect, rather than graphic truth. The florid description of some modern book of travel is as difierent to the actual impressions of ninety-nine people out of a hundred — allowing all these to jjossess average education, perception, and intellect — when painting in their minds the same subject, as the artfully tinted litho- graph, or picturesque engraving of the portfolio or annual, is to the faithful photograph. " That fellow's a Dervish — dam' rascal !" Demetri went on, pointing to the individual ; " we shall see him dance on Friday ; he keeps a shop in the bazaar. That's a man from Bokhara — dam' fellow, too ; all bad there. This is a Han." The Han, or, as we usually pronounce it, Khan, A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 69 was a square siuTouncled by buildings, with galleries; with other occupants it could have been easily con- verted into a slave-market. A vague notion of it may be formed from an old Borough inn — one story high, and built of stone. There was, however, a tree or two in the middle, and a fountain ; in the corner was also an indifferent coffee-house. These places, of which there are nearly two hundred in Constantinoj^le, have been built, from time to time, by the Sultans, and wealthy persons, for the accommo- dation of the merchants arriving, by caravan, from distant countries. No charge is made for their use ; but the rooms are entirely unfurnished, so that the occupier must bring his mattress, little carpet, and such humble articles of cookery as he may require, with him. A key of his room is given to him, and he is at once master, for the time being, of the apart- ment. In the Han I visited, the occupants were chiefly Persians, in high black sheep-skin caps, squatted, in the full enjoyment of Eastern indolence, upon their carpets, and smoking their narghillas, or " htihble-hubhles." Some of them came from a very great distance — Samarcand, and the borders of Cabool, for instance ; so that their love of repose after the toil and incertitude of a caravan journey was quite allowable. Demetri next insisted that I should see the two vast subterraneous cisterns, relics of great antiquity. One of these, the roof of which was supported by three or four hundred pillars, is dry, and used as a rope-walk, or silk-winding gallery. The other has water in it. You go through the court of a house, 60 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. and then descend, over rubbish and broken steps, to a cellar, from vrliich the reservoir extends, until lost in its gloomy immensity. The few bits of candle which the man lights to show it off, cannot send their rays very far from the spectator. It is more satis- factory to throw a stone, and hear it plash in the dark water at the end of its course with a strange hollow sound. Over this mighty tank are the houses and streets of Stamboul. The number of columns, which are of marble, is said to be about three hundred ; and the water, which you are expected to taste, is tolerably good. We left the cistern, and traversed a few more lanes on our way to the bazaars. In these Eastern thorough- fares, narrow and crowded, one continually labours under the impression of being about to turn into a broad street or large square from a bye-way : but this never arrives. A man may walk for hours about Constantinople, and always appear to be in the back streets ; although, in reality, they may be the great arteries of the city. Tortuous and very much alike, Stamboul is also one large labyrinth, as regards its thoroughfares ; the position of a stranger left by him- self in the centre would be hopeless. Smyrna had, in some measure, prepared me for the general appearance of an oriental bazaar ; but tlie vast extent of these markets at Constantinople created a still more vivid impression. To say that the covered rows of shops must altogether be miles in length — that vista after vista opens upon the gaze of the astonished stranger, lined with the costliest pro- A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. Gl diictions of the world, each collected in its proper district — that one may walk for an hour, without going over the same ground twice, amidst diamonds, gold, and ivory ; Cashmere shawls, and Chinese silks; glittering arms, costly perfumes, embroidered slippers, and mirrors; rare brocades, ermines, Morocco leathers, Persian nick-nacks ; amber moath-j)ieces, andjewelled pipes — that looking along the shortest avenue, every known tint and colour meets the eye at once, in the wares and costumes, and that the noise, the motion, the novelty of this strange spectacle is at first perfectly bewildering — all this, possibly, gives the reader the notion of some kind of splendid mart, fitted to supply the wants of the glittering personages who figure in the Arabian Nights' Entertainments ; yet it can convey but a poor idea of the real interest which such a place calls forth, or the most extraordinary assem- blage of treasures displayed there, amidst so much apparent shabbiness. No spot in the world — neither the Parisian Boulevards, nor our own Regent-street — can boast of such an accumulation of valuable wares from afar, as the great bazaar at Constantinople. Hundreds and thousands of miles of rocky road and sandy desert have been traversed by the moaning camels who have carried those silks and precious stones from Persia, with the caravan. From the wild regions of the mysterious central Africa, that ivory, so cunningly worked, in the next row, has been brought — the coal-black people only know how — until the Nile floated it down to Lower Egypt. Then those soft Cashmere shawls have made a long and treach- 62 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. erous journey to Trebizond, whence the fleet barks of the cold and stormy Euxine at last brought them up the fairy Bosphorus to the very water's edge of the city. From the remote active America ; from sturdy England ; from Cadiz, Marseilles, and all along the glowing shores of the Mediterranean, safely carried over the dark and leaping sea, by brave iron monsters that have fought the winds with their scalding breath, — these wares have come, to tempt the purchasers, in the pleasant, calm, subdued light of the bazaars of Stamboul. I have said that each article has its proper bazaar assigned to it. Thus, there is one row for muslins, another for slippers, another for fezzes, for shawls, for arms, for drugs, and so on. Yet there is no competition amongst the shop-keepers. No struggling to out-placard or out-advertise each other, as would occur with us in cool-headed, feverish, crafty, credu- lous London. You must not exjject them to pull one thing down after another, for you to look at, until it appears hopeless to conceive that the counter will ever again be tidy, or everything returned to its l>lace. The merchant will show you what you ask for, but no more. He imagines that when you came to buy at his store, you had made up your mind as to what you wanted ; and that, not finding it, you will go elsewhere, and leave him to his pipe again. He knows how to charge, though, but he is easily open to conviction that he has asked too high a price. For the way of dealing with him is as follows. Want- ing one of the light scarfs with the fringed ends, A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 63 which supersede the use of braces in the Levant, I inquired the price at a bazaar stall. The man told me iifty piastres (half a sovereign). I immediately offered him live and twenty. This he did not take, and I was walking away, when he called me back, and said I should have it. I told him, as he had tried to cheat me, I would not give him more than twenty, now ; upon which, without any hesitation, he said it was mine. This j)lanl afterwards pursued, whenever I made a purchase at Constantinople, and I most generally found it answer. My merry friend at Smyrna had given me the first lesson in its practica- bility. I do not suppose that they ask these high prices as the French do, because they sujipose we are made of money ; I believe, on the contrary, that they try to impose on their own countrymen in the same manner ; for, to judge from the long haggling and solemn argument which takes place when they buy of each other, the same wide difference of opinion as to a fair value exists between the purchaser and vendor, under every circumstance. There is a common failing with tourists, of wishing to buy everything in the way of souvenirs of a place, as soon as they arrive ; instead of waiting to see which is the most advantageous market. In this mood, I thought it proj^er to lay in a stock of otto of roses immediately ; and we went to the most famous merchant of the bazaar for this purpose. We were asked into a small back room, in which were soft cushions to sit upon ; and the attendant directly 64 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. filled a pipe for each of us, and brought some coflfee, in tiny cups placed in a little metal stand, the size of an egg-cup. The pipe- sticks were of cherry-wood, and very long : where the red bowl rested on the matting, a neat little brass tray was placed ; and a small char- coal fireplace in the corner, on which the coffee was made, supplied the hraise to light the latakia. I was very much disappointed with the Turkish coffee, of which we hear so much in England: it is not to be mentioned in the same breath with that of the Estaminet Hollandais, in the Palais Eoyal, or any other good Parisian house. The coffee, in this in- stance, was bruised rather than ground, made very strong, sweetened, and then poured out, grouts and all, into the little cups. When it had settled, it was carefully sipped, and the grounds filled up above a third of the cup. There was much to look at in our merchant's shop. Apart from his perfumes, he dealt in Damascus arms, tiger skins, and Persian curiosities — these latter being chiefly j)ortfolios, looking-glasses, and oblong cases, which my lady friends at home have pronounced to make admirable knitting-boxes. They were all painted with representations of ladies and gentlemen hunting, making love, and walking about in fine gardens. The ladies appeared all of one family, with marvellously dark almond-shaj)ed eyes : and the gentlemen had long black beards, that a French A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. G5 sapeiir might have hoped in vain to have equalled. Everything, however, was outrageously dear. The otto was poured into the little gilded bottles we are familiar with ; and in each of their slender channels a little balloon of air was left that the pur- chaser might see he was not cheated, by floating it up and down. There are different kinds of otto. The cheapest is exceedingly nasty, and leaves a scent behind it something between turpentine and pepper- mint : it is as bad in its way as Boulogne eau-de- Cologne. The best costs about sixteen-pence a bottle. This is the purest essential oil of the rose, and will impart its scent to a casket or drawer for years, even through the piece of bladder tied over it. The shop-keepers come to the bazaar in the morn- ing, and leave it at night, when it is shut up. They take their meals there, however. One, a shawl-mer- chant, was making a light dinner from grapes and bulls'-eyes ; another had bread and dates ; and many had little portions of minced meats done in leaves, from the cook-shops. Of a coarser kind were the refreshments carried about by men on round trays. These were chiefly cold pancakes, chesnuts of poor flavour, rings of cake- bread, fruits, and sweetmeats. Of these last, the rah-hak-la-cuum (I spell it as jjro- nounced) is the most popular. It is made, I was told, of honey, rice, and almonds, and flavoured with otto in an extremely delicate manner. Its meaning is, " giving repose to the throat." The bazaars are perfect thoroughfares for horses and carriages, as well as for foot-passengers ; and as F CG A MOXTII AT CONSTANTINOPLE. there is no division iu the narrow row between road and footway, one must always be on his guard. Now, a man of importance, with his servant running at liis stirrup, will come by ; now, one of the lumber- ing carriages filled with women. And indeed these latter form the princi2)al class of customers. Early in the day they crowd to the finery shops, and there you will see them having everything unrolled, whether they want it or not, comjiariDg, haggling, and debat- ing, exactly as our own ladies would do at any " enor- mous sacrifice" that "must be cleared" in a few days. Sometimes, by great good chance, you may see a A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. G7 taper ankle and small white naked foot displayed at the shoe-shop ; but under such circumstances you must not appear to be looking on, or the merchant may address some observation to you very uncompli- mentary to the female branches of your family, and singularly forcible to be uttered before his lady customers. Of verbal delicacy, however, the Turkish women have not the slightest notion. The walk back to Pera, through Galata and up the steep rugged lane, was very tiring, yet the constant novelty still made me forget fatigue. At the scrap of burying-ground on the hill, — which, like many of the other cemeteries, lies in the most thickly-crowded quarters of the city, like the London graveyards, — I stopped awhile for a cup of sherbet from one of the vendors of that drink, which is precisely the cherrijade of our evening parties, into which a lumj) of com- pressed snow is put. Looking at the burial-ground, I thought that very little respect appeared to be joaid to the dead. It was not enclosed ; dogs were sleep- ing about, and cocks and hens scratching up a miser- able living from the ground. The gravestones were all out of the perpendicular, and some had been tumbled down completely. Here and there the stone turbans which had been knocked from the tombs of the janissaries were yet lying; and on that part that bordered the street they had ]nit old boxes, crates, tubs, cheap goods for sale, and lastly the fire-engine, about which, and the dancing dervish who was sitting near it, opposite his convent, I shall have something to say further on. Just beyond the burying-ground I went into a ' r 2 68 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. French hair-dresser's for some trifles for the toilet. He was a smart active fellow, and a Parisian — appa- rently doing a good business in his way, but hating the Turks and their country intensely. He told me, amongst much Pera scandal, that he once had an intrigue with a Turkish woman — a very dangerous game in this country — and that her relations became aware that she was under his roof. They had it surrounded by a cordon of police, and he was ultimately obliged to break through the wall into the next house, by which means she escaped, with the connivance of the neighbours. He added, that the whole of the story was in GaUgnanis Messenger at the time ; and, upon inquiry afterwards in Pera, I found that it was all entirely true, for the affair had made some noise at the time ; and brought no small custom to the shop of the gallant coiffeur. We had a large party at the tall e-cV hole when we got back to the hotel, at dinner-time ; and, for aught that there was different in the company or cooking, one might just as well have been in France. Some- what tired, I was not sorry to get to bed about eight, but sleep was not just yet permitted, for a quantity of persons connected with tbe various steamers were having a private dinner in the next room, and were becoming so very convivial, that slumber was out of the question. So I sat awhile at the window, looking at the moon on the Bosphorus and Golden Horn, and hearing my festive neighbours go through all the stages of a man's dinner-party — first, jiroposing toasts, then speaking, then singing, then doing funny things, then singing without being listened to, then in chorus A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. G9 ■without knowing the tune, and finally diflfering in opinion and breaking up. The lights in Stamboul disappeared, one after the other, — for there are no public lamps to make mention of, — and the whole of the city was soon as quiet as a country village, the silence being only broken by the clang of the night-watchman's iron- shod staff, as he made it ring against the pavement, from time to time, to proclaim his approach. On retiring to bed, I carried with me the feeling of still being on the sea, and so appeared to be undulating gently, with a sensation far more disagreeable than the reality. I was restless, too, with the recollection of my day's sights, and after an hour's doze, I woke up again, and went and sat by the window. The noise I then heard I shall never forget. To say that if all the sheep-dogs going to Smith- field on a market day had been kept on the constant bark, and pitted against the yelping curs upon all the carts in London, they could have given any idea of the canine uproar that now first astonished me, would be to make the feeblest of images. The whole city rang with one vast riot. Down below me at Toi)hane — over at Stamboul — far away at Scutari — the whole eighty thousand dogs that are said to overrun Con- stantinople, appeared engaged in the most active extermination of each other, without a moment's cessation- The yelping, howling, barking, growling, and snarling, were all merged into one uniform and continuous even sound, as the noise of frogs becomes when heard at a distance. For hours there was no lull. I went to sleep, and woke again ; and still, with 70 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. my -windows open, I heard the same tumult going on : nor -was it until daybreak that anything like tran- quillity was restored. In spite of my early instruction, that dogs delight to bark and bite, and should be allowed to do so, it being their nature, I could not help wishing that, for a short season, the power was vested in me to carry out the most palpable service for which brickbats and the Bosphorus could be made conjointly available. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 71 CHAPTEK VI. AN EASTERN BATH THE FIRES AT PERA. Going out in the day-time, it is not difficult to find traces of the fights of the night, about the limbs of all the street-dogs. There is not one, amongst their vast number, in the enjoyment of a perfect skin. Some have their ears gnawed away or jiulled off; others have had their eyes taken out ; from the backs and haunches of others, perfect steaks of flesh have been torn away ; and all bear the scars of desperate combats. Wild and desperate as is their nature, these poor animals are susceptible of kinduess. If a scrap of bread is thrown to one of them now and then, he does not forget it ; for they have, at times, a hard matter to live, — not the dogs amongst the shops of Galata or Stamboul, but those whose " ])arish " lies iu the large burying-grounds and desert-places without the city ; for each keeps, or ratlier is kept, to his district; and if he chanced to venture into a strange one, the odds against his return would be very large. One battered old animal, to whom I used occasionally to toss a scrap of food, always followed me from the hotel to the cross-street at Pera, where the two sol- 70 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. diers stand on guard, but would never come beyond this point. He knew the fate that awaited him had he done so ; and therefore, when I left him, he would lie down in the road and go to sleep until I came back. When a horse or camel dies, and is left about the roads near the city, the bones are soon picked very clean by these dogs, and they will carry the skulls or pelves to great distances. 1 was told that they will eat their dead fellows — a curious fact, I believe, in canine economy. They are always trouble- some — not to say dangerous — at night; and are especially irritated by Europeans, whom they will single out amongst a crowd of Levantines. The second day I was at Constantinojile I had a bath, in the proper Turkish fashion ; and this was A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 73 quite as novel in its way as everything else had been. The establishment patronised was the head one in Stamboul ; and we went from the street into a very large hall, entirely of marble, with a gallery round the walls, in which were couches, as well as down below. On these different visitors were reposing; some covered up and lying quite still, others smoking narghiles, and drinking coiFee. Towels and cloths were drying on lines, and in the corner was a little shed, serving as a Cafe. We went up stairs and undressed, giving our watches and money to the attendant, who tied our clothes up in a bundle. He then tucked a coloured wrapper round our waists, and threw a towel over our shoulders, after w^hich we walked down stairs, and put on some wooden clogs at the door of the next apartment. The first thing these did was to send me head over heels, to the great discomfiture of my temporary costume, and equal delight of the bathers there assembled. We remained in this room, which was of an increased temperature, idling upon other couches, until we were pronounced ready to go into the second chamber. I contrived, with great care and anxiety, to totter into it upon my clogs, and found another apartment of marble, very warm indeed, and lighted from the top by a dome of glass 'bull's-eyes.' In the middle of this chamber was a hot raised octagon platform, also of marble, and in the recesses of the sides were marble vases, and 74 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. tanks, with tajis for hot and cold water, and channels in the floor to carry off the suds. Two savage un- earthly boys, their heads all shaved, with the exception of a tuft on the top, and in their scant costume of a towel only, looking more like wild Indians than Turks, now seized hold of me, and forcing me back upon the hot marble floor commenced a dreadful series of tortures, such as I had only read of as pertaining to the dark ages. It was of no use to resist. They clutched hold of the back of my neck, and I thought they were going to strangle me ; then they pulled at my arms and legs, and I thought again they were going to put me on the rack ; and lastly, when they both began to roll backwards and forwards on my chest, doubling my cracking elbows underneath them, I thought, finally, that my last minute was come, and that death by suffocation would finish me. They were fiends, and evidently delighted in my agony; not allowing me to look to the right or left after my comjDanions, and throwing themselves on me again, whenever they conceived I was going to call the dragoman to my assistance. I do not know that I ever passed such a frightful five minutes, connected with bathing, nervous as are some of the feelings which that pastime gives rise to. It is very terrible to take the first summer plunge into a deep dark river, and when you are at the bottom, and the water is roaring in your ears, to think of dead bodies and crocodiles ; it is almost worse to make that frightful journey down a steep beach, in a bathing machine, with a vague incertitude as to where you will find yourself when the doors open again : but nothing can A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 75 come up to what I suffered in my last extremity, in this Constantinople bath. Thoughts of Turkish cruelty and the sacks of the Bosphorus ; of home, and friends, and my childhood's bowers — of the sadness of being murdered in a foreign bath — and the probability of my Giaour body being eaten by the wild dogs, crowded rapidly on me, as these demons increased their tortures; until, collecting all my strength for one last effort, I contrived to throw them off, one to the right and the other to the left, some half dozen feet — and regained my legs. The worst was now over, certainly ; but the perse- cution still continued sufficiently exciting. They seized on me again, and led me to the tanks, where they almost flayed me with horse-hair gloves, and drowned me with bowls of warm water, j)oured continuously on my head. I could not see, and if I again tried to cry out, they thrust a large soapy swab, made of the fibres that grow at the foot of the date palm, into my mouth, accompanying each -renewed act of cruelty with a demand for baksheesh. At last, being fairly exhausted, themselves, they swathed me in a great many towels ; and I was then half carried, half pushed, upstairs again, where I took my place upon my couch with feelings of great joy and thank- fulness. I now began to think that all the horrors I had undergone were balanced by the delicious feeling of repose that stole over me. I felt that I could have stopped there for ever, with the fragrant coffee steaming at my side, and the soothhig bubble of the narghilts sounding in every direction. I went off 76 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. into a clay dream — my last clear vision being that of a man having his head shaved all but a top knot, which was long enough to twist round and round, under his fez — and could scarcely believe that an hour had elapsed, when the dragoman suggested our return to the bustling world without. Very confusing indeed was the noise of the streets, after the quiet of the baths. I felt almost giddy and bewildered, until we came into the court- yard of a mosque — that of Sultan Bajazet — where several people were lying about asleep in the shade of the colon- nades. Suddenly the still air trembled, and turned into a whirl of conflicting draughts of wind, a strange loud noise was heard, and hundreds after hundreds of tame pigeons came fluttering down from every jjerch and corner of the building to be fed, as a man appeared under one of the porches. These, I under- stood, were all sacred birds ; the mosque was their home, and large sums were put aside for their mainte- nance, i do not know to what punishment 1 might not have been condemned, had the guardians been aware of the thoughts connected with innumerable pies that then occupied my mind. I may be excused for repeating the old story about the sacred pigeons — why the birds at the mosque are held in such reverence. At the time of the Hegira, or flight of !Mahomet from Mecca to Medina, from which period the Mahometan year is calculated, he was very closely pursued by the leaders of the Koreishite tribe, who, jealous of his growing power, which threatened to upset their ancient religion, had combined to slay him. He contrived to gain infor- mation of his intended assassination, and left Mecca A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 77 in the middle of the night, accompanied by Abu Beker, the father of his most beautiful and beloved wife, Ayesha. Their enemies were, however, almost as quick as they were ; and Mahomet and his friend had just time to conceal themselves in a cave, when the others came up. But, in this minute of time, an acacia bush sprouted up before the opening, and amidst its branches was a nest, in which a pigeon ■was sitting on some eggs. A spider is also said to have spun a web over all. When the would-be assassins came up, they saw these things; and being thus convinced that the mouth of the cavern must have been undisturbed for some time, they went on their way: otherwise they would have entered the cave, and discovered the fugitives. This was in the year 622 of the Christian era. By subtracting this number from our own period, the epoch of the Mahometan calendar is arrived at. Thus, this pre- sent 1850 is 1228 of the Moslem reckoning. It was my good fortune this day to make acquaint- ance with an old Surrey neighbour, Mr. Frederick Tay- lor, the gentleman under whose able superintendence the whole of the beautiful machinery at the Turkish Mint, and the Cannon Factory, was established, and who still directs the latter works. He has lived several years in Constantinople, and is as much respected by the Turks, as by the Frank population. A sight of the little engine on the edge of the grave- yard at Pera, before alluded to, turned the subject of conversation to fires ; and he told me that a larger machine would be useless, from the deficiency of water. The one in question was such as a couple of men could conveniently carry. He had been burnt out 78 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. two or three tirues ; and was now paying sixty pounds a year for an indifferent house, at Pera, in which he had no more furniture and appointments than were absolutely necessary, or could be removed at a mo- ment's notice ; since there are no Insurance Com- panies. The extent of the Constantinople fires is well known ; nothing can equal their devastation, or the desolation produced by them, as the houses are consumed, not by tens and hundreds, but thousands. When a fire breaks out, the water-carriers, or SaJcas, assem- ble with their leathern vessels to fill the engine, but they will not stir until they are paid for their help. Tlie Turkish houses are nearly all built of wood, ^, and this becomes very dry in tlie hot climate. They are also overladen with cumbersome tiles. The natives have no idea of copying ours, with the overlapping edge, but they put double the number '^^'^^^^^^^^^^^'^^^'^^^ needed from the bad shape of their s to make his customers comfortable. He gave us a very good dinner at a tahle-d'hote, where we sat down some fourteen or sixteen — principally Greeks : but he somewhat com- mitted himself in recommending a bottle of Broussa beer to our notice. Broussa is a city in Asia Minor, celebrated for its manufactories of silk, which supply the Levant. It certainly cannot claim any distinction for its breweries, for I never tasted anything so nasty in my life. With my eyes shut, I could have imagined it a species of effervescing black-draught. As soon as dinner was over, we turned out for a stroll about the village, which possesses several very 160 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. novel and entertaining features. I have said that there was a row of coflfee-houses on the heights facing the sea. These were all wooden buildings with porticos before them ; and on the opposite side of the prome- nade in front, were platforms surrounded by railings, built to project over the edge of the cliflF, and sin- gularly insecure. The masters supply coffee, narghiles, and a very tolerable jDunch. The steamboat band was playing in front of the principal house: and, before all of them were sus- pended hoops, with thin white cylinders depending from them, which I at first took to be candles. But I found afterwards that they were blue-lights ; and that when the beauties of Prinkipo assembled (which they were to do on the morrow in gi'eat numbers) and it got dark, some public-spirited and gallant gentleman would pay to have one of these fireworks ignited, and thus show off the fair gazers to the admiration of the spectators. At present, there were not many ladies about. Our steamer was evidently the " husband's boat ;" and they were listening to the gossip of Con- stantinople in their own houses. We took a stroll through the body of ihe village, which consisted of a congeries of little thoroughfares — they could not be called streets — rudely paved, and not broader than the Haymarket footpath. At the doors of the houses, the girls were sitting, according to custom, all without bonnets, and mostly very l)retty. There were, also, more coffee-houses ; but these inland ones had no fireworks. We were obliged to buy lanterns here, to go about with, as at Constan- tinople ; for the night was dark, and several of the A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. IGl lanes had open gutters running along the middle of them. When we had walked enough, we came back to the hotel, and went to bed. The house was so slightly built, that the least noise was heard all over it ; and the boards bent and creaked when you trod on them, in a manner that was perfectly awful. My bedroom was over the storehouse ; and the planks of the floor had so shrunk, that when any one came below with a caudle, the reflection of their divisions ran all along the ceiling in bars of light. The only ornament of my chamber was a picture of a ship, by a native artist. His ideas had been more extensive than his canvas ; for, wishing to portray an immense vessel, he had commenced her on so large a scale, that he found he had left no room for her topmasts ; but not wishing to omit them, he had bent them down at right angles, and so finished them horizontally. I suppose this picture may rank as the worst in the world. We were up at seven next morning, and in the sea ten minutes afterwards. My two friends were shaved in a coflee-house. The master was also the barber. He lathered in the old fashioned style, with his hand and a basin ; and he kept his strop tied round his waist. His razor had an English blade, which was put in an awkward wooden handle. The floor of this cafe was of mud, and very uneven. Lots of customers were there already, sitting on the benches, like tailors, and smoking narghiles. Prinkipo was evidently an early place. All the Greek girls were about in crowds, fresh as dewy flowers ; the band of music was also M 162 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. beginning to play, and the coffee-houses generally were filling. All the dwellings were built in the same fragile manner as the hotels. You imagined a grand palace, with porches and columns; and then you came close to it, and found only boards painted in distemper, like scenery. After breakfast, we started on donkeys to make an excursion about the Island. The animals were not so clever as their Cairo brethren, but went much better than the asses in England. No whip was required: the proprietor, on starting, gave each of us a skewer, and with this we were expected, literally, to peg into the poor devil's shoulders. The least touch, however, sufficed to start the animal into an amble. We skirted an iron mine — the entire island is com- posed of red ferruginous earth and stone — and then passed a long vineyard of curiously small grapes, after which we came upon an open track of ground, very like Hampstead Heath. Two or three desolate looking monasteries were perched about ui:)on the hills, and we went up to one of these. The inmates were all Greek. The principal monk showed us the church, — a small damp building, very old, with some tawdry and tarnished saints about it, painted and gilt as usual. On the lectern was a testament, and the priest asked me to show him how the Enghsh read and pronounced Greek ; and was surprised to hear that the study of that language was part of our ordinary school education. I afterwards joencilled down the com- mencement of the nativity chapter in the Diatessaron, Kai Troifj.svei na-ocv ev rrt %i^ff} Tr\ xvTrt aypayXoyvrej, A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 163 &c., and asked him if he could read it. This he did pretty well, but with a pronunciation entirely different to ours : indeed, had I not known the sentence by heart — it having formed part of an old " Doctor's Day" examination — I could not have understood him. From the church, we traversed the court, in which were many fine goats ; and a boy with a light iron collar round his neck — merely to show that he was a culprit — was at work, under the superintendence of the monks. This appeared to me to be a far better road to reform than the prison at Constantinople. Then we went up stairs and along an open gallery, into which the cells opened. One of these had a divan round three sides of it, with a wooden press on the other : and this was all the furniture. The walls and ceiling were of wood, and none of it was painted. The windows commanded beautiful views of the entire island, or nearly so — the sea of Marmora, and the opposite coast of Scutari ; but it must have been a sad lonely and exposed place in winter. We took our seats on the divan, concerning which article, by the way, I may just allude to an odd con- tradiction in our language. We call a couch to sit or lie upon, a sofa ; and by a divan we generally mean a room appropriated to smoking ; now, by a sofa the Turks mean a particular room, and their divan is a long soft settle to recline on. In a little time an elderly woman brought up some rakee and preserved quince ; and afterwards coffee. Pipes were also offered to the guests ; and then, contributing a trifle each to the box of the convent, we took our leave. M 2 lf)4 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. I am siu'e these monks were good creatures. They were evidently very poor indeed ; but there was a cheerful courtesy about them, very pleasing; and the mild intelligence of their faces was very different to that of the scowling priests who haunt the Italian cities. This convent was their world : they seldom left it, and the casual arrival of strangers was possibly their greatest excitement ; for, in reality, their position was far more lonely than that of the Great St. Ber- nard monks, who see as much and as varied company, during the " season," as a Khine hotel-keeper. Europe had been rent by convulsions, and was still in the throes of fresh troubles, but Prince's Island WHS too much out of the way for any one to disturb its tranquillity ; and so the inmates of the old convents lived on, calmly enough, waiting for death, and if they knew no great joys, they had but few sorrows. We had great excitement all the way down the hill. The descent was on smooth grass, and our saddles were not of a lirst-rate description, but kept slipping on to the donkeys' necks ; and then we all went down together. This happened to each of us three or four times. The stirrups also were fastened to the same strap, which played loosely through the saddle ; so that if you made too great an inclination on one side, without counteracting it, you came over that way. I never tumbled about so much as on that short journey; but the grass was soft, and it made fun enough. We went to another convent, close to which was a covered wooden platform, like a steward's stand at the races, only much lower. Here three or four handsome A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 105 girls were dancing a polka to their own voices, and an old monk was looking on. As they saw us approach, they stopped, and flew off, like startled deer, into the adjoining woods. We sat with the priest a little time, and made him a present of some sweetmeats, which a travelling vendor passed with at that minute. He told us that the girls had come up from the village, and that it did him good to see them dancing. I do not wonder at this. Calling back their pretty faces, I do not think there are many who would not also have felt considerably better from a glimpse of them. We spent a pleasant idle day in the woods, and got back to the village between four and five, when its most novel and characteristic feature presented itself The whole jDopulation had turned out, to walk about in their finest clothes, up and down the promenade in front of the wooden coffee-houses. All the seats and narghiles were engaged, as well in the cafes as on the sea-view platform opposite. Some of the people had evidently taken up their positions at an early hour, to have a good place : others formed little groups in the porticos ; others flitted and vaudyked about from one party to the other. The brilliancy of the fine ladies and gentlemen who walked up and down to be looked at, was beyond all 166 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. conception ; but the most curious feature of all this was, that in their overpowering costumes, there was no particular fashion prevalent. Everything had evidently been made from a book, or imported from some dashing European milliners, but at all sorts of periods ; so that there were long and short petticoats, and wide and narrow bonnets, and polkas and mantillas, and summer fly-away scarfs over winter dresses, all jumbled up together to create a sensation and out- shine the neighbours. There were few fezzes to be seen now. The wearers had exchanged them for glossy silk hats ; and they all wore gloves of dazzling hues. But the children were the most marvellous of all ; and one family looked as if they were preparing for an exhibition of ground and lofty tumbling, so bril- liantly outre were their costumes. Two of the little boys were attired in crimson satin trousers, spangled, and the third had a perfect Highland dress, which was the great hit of all. With a bit of carpet for the latter to dance, and the others to posture upon, the business would have been complete. The men were all gents — as thorough-bred as might have been selected from the combined forces of Rosherville, Epsom, and the public ball-rooms of London. Some, for display, paid for the blue candles to be fired by day-light : others marched up and down, several abreast ; and all evidently had the notion that, got up so remarkably well, they were " doing it ! " Amidst the throng, cajidjees (waiters) darted about with little morsels of incandescent wood to light the narghiles with : boys sold walnuts, ready peeled and kej)t in A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 167 glass jars of water : and sweetmeat men plied their trade. Those ladies who had servants made them walk behind them ; and those who had not, sneered at the others. All this went on for two or three hours. There was not one trace of oriental life in the entire scene. The gravity of the Levantine had entirely disappeared ; and a restless fevered wish to cut out the others was the leading attribute of every character there assembled. We sat here until dusk, when it got cold, and the gay crowd disappeared. Most of the men were on board the return steamer the next morning, but their appearance was not so grand as on the pre- ceding evening. They looked very dirty, and they made their breakfast from a cigarette. But I dare say they were all at Prinkipo again the next week, as bril- liant as ever : and so on, until the cold weather drove them in like fine caterpillars to hybernate, until the first warmth of the jDresent spring shall bring them out again, more wonderful than ever. The Karibile. 108 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. CHAPTEE XVIII. BAZAATIS GENERALLY A CAMEL RIDE A BOAT BUILDER. Whenever I had a leisure day at Constantinople, I always spent it in and about the bazaars ; finding no amusement anywhere else equal to this. These bazaars possess one gi'eat advantage over our establishments so named in England. You can stop and look at the wares, without the stall keeper darting upon you immediately, and asking you what you want, which is bad policy, for it always drives people immediately away ; whereas, if left to them- selves, they might possibly select something. Some of the sharper traders in the bazaars — Jews and Armenians — are, to be sure, as clamorous as butchers in the low neighbourhoods. They address you as Kepen — meant for " Captain," since they imagine every Frank belongs in some way or another to a ship. They will sell everything readily enough, but native books ; and these a traveller has great difficulty in procuring ; indeed, it is next to impossible to pur- chase a Koran. I wished to get one or two primers, or children's early books, but could not find a single dealer who would part with any ; at last, Mr. Taylor A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 169 kindly procured me one or two, through his lady, who is a Levantine. These were in gilt covers, like the very old class of story books ; and formed of thickish paper, mechanically glazed. The writing was all done by hand, and the title-joage at the end was daubed with flowers in bright scarlet, blue, and green colours. Gold leaf was also made use of for the borders. I had great difficulty in procuring any characteristic views or figures. The religion of the Turks forbids them to make the resemblance of any living thing ; they are taught by the Koran that if they do so they will be called upon hereafter to find souls for every creation ; and, failing in this, they will be irrevocably lost. This will account for an odd coarse lithograph I bought one day; it was a view of Stamboul, from the Golden Horn ; all the boats were about, as in reality, but nobody was in them, and the oars appeared to be working themselves. I subjoin a fac simile of one of the caiques thus depicted. The two articles which appeared in the bazaars in greater numbers than any other wares, were slippers and sjDOons. The presence of the first I could account for. They are much worn by the women, and being reasonable in price, and uncommonly pretty and novel, are purchased in numbers by visitors. But 170 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. the last always remained a mystery. They were very large and made of horn — at least the bowls appeared to be ; and there were whole rows of shops selling nothing else. Now and then, I saw knives and forks, but there were very few of these, for the Turks eat with their fingers. As this fashion is not well adapted to soup, I suppose the spoons come in at times advantageously ; but, if the entire population of Con- stantinople were to be eating soup all at once, they would still be overstocked with sjDoons by many thousands. Demetri could give me no information on the subject. Another great amusement for me was to sit on the steps, in the shade thrown by the projecting roof of some fountain, and watch the camels coming into the city, and departing. One day I had a ride. There is a common error prevalent with us that the camel and dromedary differ as to their humps — one having two, and the other only one. This is not the case : each has but a single hump, but the dromedary is of lighter build and greater speed than the camel, He stands to the latter as the hunter to the pack horse. The animal I got was a common baggage camel — very savage and stubborn, crying loudly and running backwards when beaten ; so that my first experience was not a very pleasant one. He knelt down for me to get upon him, but even then it was a long stretch to cross his back. Subsequently, in Eg}-i)t, I learned to vault on to the saddle — if, indeed, the package of old carpet, straw, and wood-work could be called one. In front there is a high pommel, which you clutch hold of when the animal rises. If you did not do A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 171 this, the pitching forwards and backwards is so violent that you Avould inevitably be thrown off. You have only a simi:»le single halter to guide him with, and the end of this is sufficiently long to beat him. I will own to having been in a terrible fright all the while I was on his back. With his uneasy rocking motion I had the greatest difficulty in the world to keep on, and the fall from my elevated perch — for such it really was — would have been no joke; and when he trotted it was enough to bring the heart into the mouth. If I were asked to describe the first sensations of a camel ride I would say : Take a music stool, and having wound it up as high as it will go, put it in a cart without springs, get on the top, and next drive the cart transversely across a ploughed field, and you will then form some notion of the terror and uncertainty you would expe- rience the first time you mounted a camel. To make him go fast you cry " su ! su!" and also make a noise with your tongue, something like the word ''thluck!" — and to get him to kneel down, you pull his neck sideways and downwards, and produce a crepitating sound by pressing your tongue against the back of your teeth. At first, a very short journey is exceedingly fatiguing, and gives one the lumbago for a week ; but afterwards the see-saw motion becomes so little cared for, that I can well understand folks going to sleep on a camel. Once, in the desert, on a very hot day, I nearly dozed ofi" myself There are not nearly so many camels to be seen in Constantinople as at Smyrna. At Scutari one meets with a larger number than in Stamboul ; but the 172 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. Bosphorus brings all sorts of wares so readily to the Golden Horn that caravan transj^ort is less necessary. When one has seen enough of the bazaars, there is no other jjastime but being rowed about in the caiques. These boats, of which I have spoken several times, are beautifully made, and very light. They sell capital models of them at the different hotels, but these they were out of at our house, and I went with Demetri to seek the manufacturer — who monopolizes the trade in this department — and ordered one. I was told he lived at Pera, but I found his habitation much more original than I had expected it to be. We turned from the main street on the right, and arrived at the scene of a great fire. Acres of houses had been burnt down, of which no remains were left, as usual, but the chimneys : and nobody had as yet taken heart to build them up again. Demetri w^audered about for some time among the ruins, and at last found a little grated window almost level with the ground, through which he shouted. His cry was returned, and directly afterwards a man crept from a small cellar and stood before us. This was the manufacturer. He was a poor Greek, and usually lived about amongst the ruins, until they were repaired. Possibly by that time another fire occurred, and he changed his quarters, his furniture never being beyond what he and his wife — for he was married — could transport by themselves in a few minutes. Certainly he stood but very little chance of being annoyed by visitors, for I might have passed his burrow any number of times before I should have noticed it. Demetri discovered it readily by getting A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 178 certain chimneys in a line, as a pilot fixes his course by landmarks. This man was not the only wandering inhabitant of Pera. Just above our hotel, on another burnt- away space, some vagrants had formed a small en- campment ; and their fire often lighted the otherwise dark street, as I came home at night. It was curious to see the dogs here, sitting patiently and waiting for such scraps as even these poor devils had to throw away. The watchmen did not appear to interfere with them. Possibly they thought that as long as the scamps were there, they were comparatively out of mischief. I suppose there are more rascals living in and about Pera, than in any other place in the world — I speak, of course, in proportion to the census. When a Frank does anything wrong, he is judged by his ambassador, according to the laws of his country. One of our under- waiters robbed a Russian gentleman, who was staying in the house, of an hundred Spanish dollars. The fellow was caught at Buyukdere, living in extravagance at the very hotel of which I have spoken. He was brought back, examined, and ordered to Trieste, to be imprisoned or otherwise punished. The master of the hotel went to the boat with him ; this was a supplementary steamer that had come up from Syria, and was therefore in quarantine. When they got alongside the boat, the landlord did not think about the yellow flag, but ran up the companion, pushing by some of the sailors to explain the matter privately to the captain. Of course he was immediately in quarantine, and for a week ! 174 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. I believe the matter was subsequently arranged, and pratique given after a day or two ; but the whole business was exceedingly absurd. Some sort of amelioration of the Levantine laws relating to qua- rantine was in agitation last autumn. It is high time that they were abolished, except during seasons of avowed illness and infection. But so many have said so before, and so many have experienced the wretchedness, extortion, and groundless imprison- ment, calling up these remonstrances, that I will no further bore the reader, comfortably at liberty in England, with the subject. Suffice to say, that as far as Constantinople is concerned, there has not been a case of plague there for several years. Tuik in a CoflFee-house. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 175 CHAPTER XIX. THERAPIA AND BELGRADE. One day, I received an invitation to stay at Therapia with a friend, who is the Constantinople correspondent for two of our papers. He came down to Pera to fetch me, and we went up the Bosphorus in a steamer. There was the same trouble to clear ofi' — the same shattering of the Galata Bridge wood-work, and con- stant disturbance of the passengers, who were all apparently of the same family — that I had noticed on board the boat to Prince's Islands. Therapia is about an hour and a half from the Golden Horn. It was a line Friday afternoon, and all along the sides of the Bosphorus, wherever there was a Turkish palace, the women were sittiug on the walls, in every tint of costume, watching the traffic on the water. Passengers were put out and taken in at several points, always by means of boats ; and they carried the same useless luggage that their com- patriots had done at Prinkipo. My friend's house was a thin wooden two-story building, that rattled and shook from the top to the bottom when anybody went up stairs, or walked about the bedrooms. There were large gaps in the floor 176 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. and ceiling, and the Avind came in generally at all points. Daly — as I shall call my friend — told me that once, as he was lying in bed looking at a hole in the ceiling, formed by a knot having fallen out, he saw a rat put his head through the aperture, to peep about him, and nearly get fixed there. He also told me that stone houses were not such a jjrotection against fire as might be conceived ; for, now and then, when one had caught, he had seen the flames rush up inside, from bottom to top, as though in a kiln. All the houses at Therapia were of the same order : they are ovens in summer, and ice-bergs in winter ; and I cannot imagine how the poor people keep life and soul together in them, when the freezing winds come sweeping by them from the Euxine. The windows are like ours, but without balance weights. When you have lifted them up, you keep them so by a piece of stick, or by opening a hinge ; and now and then yoLi disturb a scorpion in so doing. I found the mummy of a tolerably large one at the bottom of a water-jug, into which he had tumbled and died. There is a poor hotel at Therapia, the greatest recom- mendation of which is that it is over a general shop, whereat you can procure any quantity of pale ale — an inestimable blessing where wine is atrociously bad, and decent brandy iinknown. The inhabitants are all Greeks, and the women wear pretty coquettish jackets. They almost equal the Turks in their love of sitting on a high place, and doing nothing. In this case, the most popular haunt was a scrap of burying ground rising up behind and above our A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 17: house, and shaded by fine trees. Here were several tombstones to the memory of English sailors ; but the cutting had been committed to Greek work-people, and, in some instances, the inscriptions were intelligible with difficulty. I walked out the first evening, for a stroll, along the edge of the Bosphorus ; the road being a small flint-paved path between the houses and the water, unapproachable for carriages. It was a cold wintry- looking night, and the spent swell of the Euxine was lapping and splashing against the quay. But the lights along Buyukdere and the Asiatic coast were very effec- tive ; and the occasional sound of a tinkling guitar, or the voice of a Greek girl singing, gave a sufficiently romantic air to the scene. Some of the songs I heard, appeared to be popular. I was indebted to a young lady of Pera for the music which I subjoin. TUKKISH AIR ^^^: -F 178 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE, fe * * at::qz^d=t^=Ef fei vnjj^n 5i \m ^^ m m ii^^^^i asS^ ^ p ^ A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. J 70 ^ ' ifi a -: ^ 1 ^S^i^i^ ii^iia^Sii^ .^ D. C. :jg: al Fine GREEK AIR. 1^^ MM t-fen^^*l^ P===P=— ^ t^=t^ ^ ^J^^^-^ =\ F- # 1^ ^; N 2 180 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. f 1st Time. PAKT OF "BULBUL." •0- g%firp-f-^ ± # ^ =F=it \m^ ^ A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 181 We had sword-fish for supper that evening. It was of excellent flavour, and far more delicate than would be imagined, from looking at the huge specimens of the tribe hung up at the shops — some having been cauglit that weighed eighty pounds. T may mention, by the way, that every kind of fish is taken in the Bosphorus. Some of the specimens are very beautiful, but the shopkeepers do not see the use of displaying them to advantage, as we may observe at our fishmongers. Whilst I was at Therapia, I had the honour of receiving an invitation from Sir Stratford Canning, to the Embassy, which is situated on the side of the Bosphorus. The palace of our Ambassador at Pera was burnt down in 18:31 ; and a new one is nearly completed, under the able direction of Mr. Smith — it is needless to say, an English architect — to whose taste and experience Pera and the Bosphorus will soon be indebted for most of their finest buildings. Our Ambassador's house at Therapia is charmingly situated. Extreme good taste and refined comfort are visible everywhere ; sufficient in themselves to leave an agreeable recollection, quite apart from the amiable courtesy exhibited to the visitor. A ride to Belgrade was proposed, and we formed a large party — ten or twelve in all. This village is two or three hours from Therapia. It must not be con- founded with the Belgrade on the Danube, six hundred miles away — for I have lieard more than one traveller make this mistake before he has been there — but it is still an important place in its way, inasmuch as the greater part of the water that supplies Constantinople I«2 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. is collected about it. It is, so to speak, the "New River Head" to that city. How this is managed, T will endeavour to explain. Belgrade is situated in the centre of a large and finely-wooded forest, about which several sj^rings rise and form small rivulets. This wood is very carefully preserved, for the shade of its foliage prevents the ground from becoming heated, and the springs there- fore from drying up. The country is very irregular, and the rivulets, of course, collect into some ravine by chance channels, to form a larger stream. The ravine is then dammed up, and the body of water thus formed, with its masonry, is termed a bend. When a street-boy in town blocks up a gutter with mud and rubbish, to make a pool behind it, he con- structs a bend on a minor scale. The next task is to convey the water to Constan- tinople. Aqueducts for that distance would be very expensive, and so it flows through underground pipes, " : — at least for the greater proportion of the distance. Every now and then, at particular levels, it ascends to the top of a pyramidal tower, called a Souterazy, whence it again jiasses un- derground, having come in contact with the air, to the . next conduit. The advan- tages of this system are that it is comparatively in- expensive, and it enables A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOrLE. 183 the superintendent to tell readily at what point any leak or obstruction may occur, which he could not do, if it flowed continuously underground. Neither in that case could it come in contact with the air, and so be freshened. The ride from Therapia to Belgrade is very beau- tiful; and probably there is no patch of country in the East, that will remind an Englishman so forcibly of home. Oaks, beeches, and elms grow in thick luxuriance ; now the traveller passes a regular common of brushwood ; now he finds himself in a grassy glade, that might have been transplanted just as it is, by magic power, from Windsor Forest. All the low ground is rich in sylvan loveliness ; and all tlie up- land commands the most beautiful views ; whilst the village itself is joerfect. The grass, where not too much exposed to the sun, is of lawn-like smoothness and verdure, and the trees are nearly as fine as the giants near Buyukdere. It is not to be wondered at, that, possessing these charms, Belgrade should be a favourite resort of the Armenian and French popu- lation of Constantinople. It is to them what the Valley of Sweet Waters is to the Turks : they spend all their summer holidays here, and indeed many families reside in the neighbourhood entirely, during the spring. Lady Mary Wortley Montagu's description of Bel- grade is so very true, even at a distance of a hundred and thirty-three years, that I will quote it, to recall it at once to the memory of my readers — especially as its shortness will acquit me of a charge of book- making. In a letter to Mr. Pope, she says — " The 184 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. heats of Constantinople having driven me to this place, which perfectly answers the description of the Elysian fields. I am in the middle of a wood, con- sisting chiefly of fruit trees, watered by a vast number of fountains, famous for the excellency of their water, and divided into many shady walks, upon short grass, that seems to me artificial, but I am assured is the pure work of Nature ; and within view of the Black Sea, from whence we perpetually enjoy the refresh- ment of cool breezes, that make us insensible of the heat of summer. The village is only inhabited by the richest amongst the Christians, who meet every night at a fountain, forty paces from my house, to sing and dance. The beauty and dress of the women exactly resemble the ideas of the ancient nymphs, as they are given us by the representation of the poets and the painters." She goes on to write of, " the profound ignorance I am in of what passes among the living, (which only comes to me by chance), and the great calm with which I receive it. * * * To say truth, I am sometimes very weary of the singing and dancing, and sunshine, and wish for the smoke and impertinences in which you toil, though I en- deavour to persuade myself that I live in a more agreeable variety than you do : and that Monday, setting of partridges — Tuesday, reading English — Wednesday, studying in the Turkish language (in which, by the way, I am already very learned) — Thursday, classical authors — Friday, spent in writing Saturday, at my needle — and Sunday, admitting of visits, and hearing of music — is a better way of dis- posing of the week, than Monday, at the drawing- A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 185 room — Tuesday, Lady Mohun's — Wednesday, at the Opera — Thursday, the play — Friday, Mrs. Chetwynds, &c., — a perpetual round of hearing the same scandal, and seeing the same follies acted over and over, which here affect me no more than they do other dead people. I can now hear of displeasing things with pity, and without indignation. The reflection on the great gulf between you and me, cools all news that come hither. I can neither be sensibly touched with joy nor grief, when I consider that possibly the cause of either is removed before the letter comes to my hands." We had a lovely afternoon ride back to Therapia, rendered still more delightful by the general conver- sation that characterized it. I had the honour of dining at the Embassy that evening. Not being one of those charmingly frank writers, who can make large books entirely from the conversation and social opinions of the private circles into which they may have had the good fortune to be admitted, I fear I must disappoint many in not furnishing them with a report of everything that was done and said on this occasion. But I hope that my silence on this point, will in no manner lead those whose good opinion I mostly wish to keep, in the present instance, to think that I have, in the smallest particular, forgotten that most agreeable evening ; or am, in any way, unmindful or unappreciative of the kind welcome and graceful courtesy that distinguished it. 186 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. CHAPTER XX. DEPARTURE FOR EGYPT. One of the most difficult social points to understand at Constantinople is the time of day ; to be up to it requires a more careful application than even our received signification of that degree of intelligence calls for. Of all things he has brought with him, a traveller will find his watch the most useful. There are no public clocks, and if there were, they would be of little use, for they would have to be set every evening, in consequence of the Turkish arrange- ment of time. The Moslems divide their day and night into twenty-four hours ; but these begin at a different period every day, since they are guided entirely by sunset. An hour after that time it is one o'clock ; and then they go on till twelve have been counted, when they begin again ; so that noon may arrive at all sorts of hours, according to the length of the days. At sunset, the muezzim, as he is named, makes one of his calls to prayers from the summit of the mi- narets. There is something very musical in his chant : A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 187 and it is astonishing how far he can make himself heard. The common expres- sion of behef *' La allah illah allah Mohammet rcaool allah,'' (there isbut one God, and Mahomet is his pro- phet,) forms the chief part of his summons to prayer. The window of my room at Pera overlooked one or two minarets, and the sound of the voices of the Muezzims blending together, not in- harmoniously, in the repose - of sunset, was very impres- sive. With no clocks, and this wild division of time — with few names to the streets — and no methods of giving publicity to anything, it may be imagined that no little research amongst the dirty and intricate lanes of Galata, is necessary to find out any matters relating to the dej)arture of the steamboats. I was desirous, as I have said, of going down to Egypt from Constantinople; and I could not arrive at any satis- factory information as to the starting of any of the boats. The l^ile was still in the Golden Horn, and her quarantine was over, but her English engineer told me he did not know when she would start — that she was a fast boat, and ran down sometimes in three days and a half; but that, for this voyage, all her first and second berths had been taken by the govern- 188 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. ment I could have gone as a deck passenger, had I pleased ; but the appearance of the Arabs loitering about was not very pleasant, so I gave up that mode. There was also an English boat, which touched at Beyrout, but this also I declined ; for there was a quarantine at Alexandria of ten days upon all vessels arriving from Syria ; and nothing repays one for the misery of an Eastern lazzaretto. " Imprisonment with the chance of catching the plague," is bad at all times, but in the Levant it is insufferable. The Austrian Lloyd's Company was my last re- source, and they had a correspondence, at Smyrna, with an Alexandrian boat coming down from Trieste. They were uncertain, however, about starting. Once already they had put me off a week when I had got everything packed up. However, they assured me at last that they were certain to start on a particular day, and I took my berth. I regret that it was only during the short period between my visit to Therapia and my departure from Constantinople, I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of Mr. Smith, the architect, at Pera. I went over the new palace, which he was building for the English Ambassador, and was struck by the skill with which he had produced a more splendid eflect than the actual dimensions of the building appeared capable of allowing. By this time it must be completed ; indeed, I heard that Sir Stratford Canning had arrived there, at the beginning of Fe- bruary. Mr. Smith showed me two marvellously handsome snuff-boxes, set with diamonds, that had been given A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 189 to him by the Sultan — cue of them on the occasion of his finishing the Pera Theatre, the stage of which, he told me, was thirty-five feet across at the Proscenium. This is only five feet less than Drury Lane. 1 after- wards had the pleasure of dining with him. His house, at Pera, is the most thoroughly English, in point of comfort, that I saw in the East ; and I could scarcely, at first, understand again feeling my feet on stair carpets. Looking at the elegant manner in which the entire house was furnished, I trembled to think of the loss, should one of the wretched Pera fires include it in the devastation. His amiable lady, who is a native of Barcelona, told me many interesting anecdotes connected with Turkish domestic life ; with the details of which she is very familiar, by visiting many of the native families. She had lately been to a wedding, where the bride was only ten years of age, and the bridegroom fourteen. The little lady had a star of diamonds stuck between her eyes, two on her cheeks, and one on her chin. She did not give the Turkish women in general a high character ; but spoke of them as silly and very careless in their conversation, smearing themselves also with paint, and passing the whole day in dressing and undressing, for lack of other occujmtion. Some of the Turkish wives are, I believe, to a certain extent, educated ; and indeed accomplished ; but the greater part of them are lamentably ignorant. At last, the day arrived for my departure. It was already getting cold towards evening — now and then bad weather made the streets all but impassable, and we had begun to dine, at six o'clock in the evening. 190 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. by candlelight. Much ground, too, had yet to be traversed before I was again in England ; and so, in spite of many kind requests to prolong the visit, I was at length obliged to leave Constantinople, and I did so with real regret ; for, looking back to the friendships I established there, I shall always remember my sojourn at Pera as one of the pleasantest portions of my life. This day I was Daguerreotyped by an artist who lived at the top of a Pera building, in a hothouse of glass, where it was scarcely possible to breathe. The portrait has been copied with tolerable accuracy, and it may explain how it was that so few of my friends recognised me on my return. But the comfort of a beard, when travelling, to the abolition of shaving tackle, may be readily conceived. Demetri had ordered two porters to come to the hotel for our luggage, but six arrived instead, upon which a great battle was fought in the street, before the door, and the final couple — apparently having "fought the ties off" and remained the victors, carried our luggage down to the Golden Horn, on the 25th of Se])tember. The Fcrdinando Prima, one of the Austrian Lloyd's boats, was getting her steam up, and at half-past four she started, just as the " husband's boat " was leaving the bridge for Prinkipo, with the same class of passengers on board, quite ready to dress up again on the Sunday, and walk about as long as there were others to admire them or fireworks to show off their fashionable toilets. I could not take my eyes from Constantinople as we left the port, and commenced ploughing our way Pcia, Scplembci-, Ihl!). A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 193 towards the Sea of Marmora; for now, in addition to the beauty of the view, there was some little association connected with almost every point of it on which the eye fell. There was the noble Genoese tower above Stampa's shop, in which so many hours had been laughed away, and behind that minaret was the window of Qur bedroom at the Hotel, in wliich, on evenings, so many jolly little meetings had been held. There were the hills over which we had such famous gallops, and enjoyed such good spirits; and there was the Bosphorus, and the site of the little cafe, in the extreme distance, where the pickles were served with the bottled beer. The Seraglio, as I looked at it, had lost all its mystery, when I thought of the French clocks, and gim-crack furniture, and Eng- lish pictures that it contained; and the picturesque tumble-down houses of Galata, I knew, on the other side, were ship-chandlers' shops, merchants' counting- houses, ordinary steam-packet offices, and other ma- terial establishments. But still the view was as beau- tiful as ever, even with every vivid recollection of its internal dirt and dilajjidation ; and, loth to lose it, I kept my eyes fixed on the domes and minarets, the distant Bosphorus and the violet hills above it, until the twilight stole over them, and I could only think of Constantinople as a bright fleeting vision of the past. I believe that my companion and myself were the only two cabin passengers, and we were in the fore part. But on the deck there were a great many Moslems — Turks and Circassians principally — on their way to Mecca, for their pilgrimage. Their encampment^ if so I may call it, was a curious sight. o 194 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. One half, taken longitudinally, of the aft- deck was allotted to them. Of this, the stern portion was railed off into a species of j^en, in which the women were placed, to the number of six or seven. They were shut up exactly like animals at a fair. Along the entire length of the aft-deck a spar was hung, over their heads ; and when rain c^me on, they j^ut canvas on this, and formed a species of tent. Under it each made his ' divan ;' for the quantity of carpets, dirty cushions, and mattresses they carry about with them, when travelling, is incredible. They had also their cooking utensils, and the filth they prepared, from time to time, is equally matter of diffi- cult belief. At certain times, they all went to prayers; those who had carpets spread them out, and those who had not, took off their coats, shook them well, and then laid them down, to begin upon, when they were satis- fied in their minds as to the direction of the Kihla. This is the point at which Mecca is situated; and if any of my readers have a Turkish hearth-rug, they will see, at the end of the pattern, a point or angle, which is always turned towards that holy city. They did not aj^pear to care where they established themselves for prayer, but dispersed about the decks completely in everybody's way, so as to put a stop to all walking up and down. One of tlic sailors told me that they usually did this; but that, as disturbing them might lead to unpleasant consequences, nothing was ever done to annoy them. Some prayed for a long time — twenty minutes, perhaps; others had soon finished; but all were evidently entirely wrapped up in their A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE 195 devotions, and in a state of utter abstraction. In these rites the women took no part. Tliey had rolled themselves up into bundles when they came on board, and so, to all appearance, they remained to the end of the journey. All the Turks were old, and wore turbans. There was but one in the simple fez. They were evidently sticklers for the strict Moslem costume, and clung to its decaying insignia, as old country-gentlemen with us now and then are still seen with Hessian boots, powder, and bygone hats. One ancient Turk had a turban so high that its volutes were twisted six or seven times round his head; and I fancied that each day it increased in importance. Another — a Circas- sian — had a very strange head-dress, looking for all the world like a felt sugar-loaf pushed through a black mop. He was armed to the teeth, and never laid any of his accoutrements aside during the voyage. The only one in a fez was the head eunuch of the royal seraglio. He was grandly dressed in yellow silk, spotted with scarlet, and blue trousers. He, however, wore European boots — the only Frank innovation to be seen amongst them. Yet we had not got entirely away from English enterprise; for on going down to supper, although the plates bore the motto, '' Navigazione a vajjore del Lloyd Austriaco" yet on the back there was the name of "Davenport," on the familiar scroll. The cabin was small, but the berths were clean, and we had our choice of the entire twelve. I did not, however, sleep very well, for the pillows and mattress were of horse- hair, with nothing but a fine sheet over them, so that o 2 196 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. the little ends coming through caused me to hear nearly all the bells, all the night through. We were in the Dardanelles early next morning; and the process of washing and dressing, in the cabin, was of the greatest interest to two young Arabs, who watched us through the sky-light with the keenest curiosity. They called one of their fellows after a time, and especially directed his attention to the nail- brush, and mimicked what I had been doing with it. In the cabin, the rules of the boat were hung up, in five languages — Italian, German, Greek, French, and English. From the latter I copied, " Kule 1 2. Pas- sengers having a right to be treated as persons of education, will no doabt conform themselves to the rules of good society, by respecting their fellow- travellers, and ]oaying a due regard to the fair sex." This was a sensible rule ; and, indeed, the others were equally so. I never saw any of them broken, at any time, on the Mediterranean: this will show the great superiority of the second-class places in the foreign boats, over the same division in our own. I am sorry to confess this, but it is the case. We passed the Dardanelles that day, from which the people ]mt off with crockery as before, and the Turks each purchased a huge water-jug. At night I saw the most beautiful sunset I had ever witnessed. The sky in the west was at first like burnished gold, with silver edges to the clouds. This turned to a bright orange, streaked horizontally with vermilion, whilst the mountains of Asia Minor on our left were tinted with the richest purple, and the whole of the eastern heavens were glowing with a lovely violet. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 197 There was very little wind ; the sea was as smooth as a canal, and about eight on the following morning we were once more at Smyrna. We now found that we were to change our boat, and as this transfer led to a most annoying and un- pardonable occurrence, I shall give the Austrian Lloyd's Company the entire benefit — or otherwise — of its publicity. We had been assured at their office in Galata, there would be no quarantine on our arrival at Alexandria. The same intimation was given to us at Smyrna, during the day and a half we stopped there, on this present occasion ; and so far as that went, our minds were at rest. We spent the next morning in making a few fare- well purchases — a carpet or two ; some drums of choice figs and raisins, and some minor soin-enirs ■which were left in the care of Messrs. Hansom to be forwarded by the first ship to England ; and on the afternoon of the 28th, took final leave of Turkey. An officer from the health office accompanied us in the boat to the Wien, another vessel belonging to the Austrian Lloyd's fleet. I supposed this was usual, and thought no more about the matter, until looking up by chance, after I got on board, I saw the yellow flag flying. I asked what it meant, of one of the officers, but he was very busy, and ])assed on without deigning to reply. Presently the engineer crept out of the engine-room, and he had such an English face that I addressed him at once in my own tongue. "What's that mean, sir?" he replied. "Why, that means we're in quarantine, you know." " And how the deuce is that?" 198 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. " Because the boat you were to have gone down to ' Alexander' in, is out of order ; that's her, lying out there — the StamhoiiL Sovery luckily we've come round from Beyrout, and we're going to take you on." " Then shall we be subjected to the Beyrout quarantine, on arriving at Alexandria '?" " Shouldn't wonder at all, sir — unless they let the days of the voyage count. I now saw that we were traj^ped ; and this did not tend to enliven the voyage that evening. Our only other second cabin comj)anion was a French priest — a thin grim-looking fellow of five or six-and-twenty, so spare in form that he looked as if he had been allowed to grow up between two boards. He was constantly absorbed in a little dirty volume on Theology, moving his lips and muttering as he read. He was also aflectedly humble — insisting uj^on pouring out wine for us at dinner, and abstaining from it himself, with an unpleasant smile. In addition to this, he was remarkably grimy to look upon ; and never undressed during the voyage. But he had great faith. I could not bring him to understand that we were to be put into quarantine at Alexandria; he said, it was impossible. I jDut the case as practically before him as I could, but he only smiled grimly, and said I should see. I brought the captain down at last, as it became a matter of personal principle that he should be convinced ; but even this was unsuccess- ful. He said we were all wrong ; and then returned to his thumbed volume. The next day, the 29th, there was a pretty stiff wind, and the boat began to toss, as she left the A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 199 Archipelago. We passed many islands ; all desolate- looking light reddish brown rocks, impressing one with notions of great dreariness. It rained towards afternoon, and at the first spit, all tlie Turks bundled up their carpets, crept under their long awning, and never apjoeared again for the rest of the journey. One or two of the Frank deck passengers made friends with the lieutenant, and came down into our cabin. These were an Italian physician, driven from Verona by troubles, and going to practise in Alex- andria ; a young Hollander, travelling for an Amster- dam house of commerce; M. Abro, the Pasha's dragoman, a very intelligent and communicative person, wearing the fall Turkish costume ; and the Count Stefano de , a young Ionian, speaking a little English, and first astonishing us by whistling "Patrick's Day" and "The girl I left behind me," as he walked up and down the deck that morning. He liad, however, learnt these tunes from the bands of our regiments at Corfu. He was very musical, with a beautiful tenor voice, and proved both, on board and in our subsequent quarantine, a caj^ital fellow. He had known Mademoiselle Angri, the contralto last year at our Koyal Italian Opera, and told me many curious anecdotes connected with her early career — her father having been, as I understood, messman at Corfu, and keeper of the billiard tables. He said her pojiularity had been unbounded in the islands ; and the greatest anxiety was evinced to know how she succeeded in London, when she had left them. He added, they were all perfectly convinced that she was the greatest contralto in the world; but then he had 200 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. not heard Alboni, nor, indeed, had the report of her Venetian triumphs come down the Adriatic. I have said that the engineer was an Enghshmau, as indeed the majority are, in the liCvant boats. He had been on the stations between Cairo and Constan- tinoj^le a long time ; and now knew no other work!. One night, I was asking him about the capabihties of the transit boats on the Mahmoudieh Canal and the Nile, when he told me this anecdote, which I have put down as well as I can recollect, in his own words. " Lor' bless you, sir," he began — " the power of the boat hasn't much to do with it ! When Manned All started his boat on the Nile, Abbas Pacha started one as well, and tried to beat him ; and did it too, though his'n wasn't nigh such a good boat. When Marmed Ali's boat was on a-head, Abbas Pacha used to come down and say, ' Mr. Horton,' he used to say, ' we must lick my uncle's boat;' (leastwise he didn't say lick, but he meant it in his tongue, as I might say), and then he used to go on and say, ' Mr. Horton,' he'd say, ' we'll have a bottle of champagne together,' says he. Now, they say the Mustaphas don't drink, but, Lor' bless us, I've had Abbas so overcome, as the saying is, down in the cabin, that we've often shut the doors to keep it a secret. Well, he'd send down the champagne, and then Abbas's boat would creep up to Marmed's, and then he'd send down another bottle, and then we'd get alongside ; and then another, and we'd go right a-head. I don't mean to say that we used to put the champagne in the boiler; but, you may depend upon it, it did more than the coals, and so it will, any day." A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 201 I foiincl my frieucl was a very great man on board his boat. He had a smart cabin of his own below, close to the engine room, where the thermometer was always at 90° ; and from the heat, the glare, and the noise, looked next door to the infernal regions. Here he reigned supreme. I asked him how he agreed with the officers. " Oh," he rejilied, " very well ; it's best for them to keep in with me. Once we had a row in this boat, but I got the best of it. I'm allowed a cheese a week for my own store ; and once we had a new captain between Beyroot and Alexander — a cocky chap, who was going to set everybody to rights in a hurry — and he never sent me my cheese. Well, what did I do ? I wasn't going to make a noise about it, but I stopped the engines, and let the boat toss about for half an hour, until he came to his senses. I pretty soon got my cheese ; and they never made a mistake about it afterwards." The weather cleared up the next day, but the Turks never came out again from their nestling place, nor were the women unpacked. The priest still kept to his book, and to all remarks about our probable detention, replied, ''Mais, c'est imj)ossible." "■' Oui," returned M. Abro, who, being a Levantine, knew all about it, ^' c" est impossible ; mais ccpendant, c'est rrai." But the i^riest was still strong in the belief of going on shore, and looked out his three-cornered hat, and clean bauds accordingly. We arrived off Alexandria on the morning of the 1st of October, and were, as may be expected, all most anxious to know our fate. A surly-looking old gentleman, in a European dress, came alongside, and 202 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. inspected our papers, Avhich the captain held up to be looked at, the other keej)ing at a proper distance. These did not seem satisfactory, so he received them in a tin box, and went back to the health office. In a short time he returned, and told us that we could not have pratique, but must prepare for the Beyrout quarantine. In vain the passengers exf)Ostulated in a Babel of unknown tongues ; he only shrugged his shoulders, and said he would go to the board once more ; at the same time he ordered the abominable yellow flag to go up again. As he departed the thin priest smiled grimly, and said that it all meant nothing — that he was sure we should land that afternoon. All that day we lay in the harbour, under a broiling Egyptian sun, with nothing to do but grumble, hope, despair, and watch the countless many-sailed wind- mills along the low coast, which almost twirled me into a frenzy. At night, we were told to get ready early the next day, for that the barge would come to convey us to the Lazaretto. We had been condemned by the board to the entire Beyrout quarantine ! The thin priest would not believe it. He said to-morrow morning we should land, and returned to the intent perusal of his grubby book. At daybreak, on the following morning, a wretch- edly old and dirty lighter came alongside, into which we were all shot like so much pestilential rubbish ; and two or three boats' crews of Arabs taking us in tow, with a melancholy monotonous chant suited to the occasion, we made a dismal journey of two hours, to the distant lazaretto. All my Egyptian enthusiasm vanished as we came near its gaunt prison walls. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 203 The realization — more, far more, than at Constanti- nople — of all my early dreams of the '-'Arabian Nights ;" the mystic Nile ; the giant remains of Luxor and Carnac were close at hand, so to sjaeak ; Pompey's Pillar, Cleopatra's Needle, and the Sphynx, herself, were almost within hail ; but I would at that moment have given them all up to have found myself even in a prison in England. We were received, on a rude jetty, by some hideous Arabs, who kept us away at a respectable length by long rods; and by them we were conducted to our prison. Passing several grated j^assages, at the extreme end of one of which we saw some green acacias, waving in cruel mockery, we were introduced to a court yard, surrounded by cell windows, grated with massive iron bars. We were all thrust in together — Christians, Jews, and Moslems — and told that we might choose our cells. These were stone rooms, about ten feet square, perfectly bare and empty. The thin priest, for some reason, got a room to himself; but when I pictured his spare augular form lying upon the hard ground, I shud- dered. About myself I was less anxious on this jioint, for the decks of the steamers had inured me to slee]3ing uj)on boards ; and I had a thick capote of camel's hair, which I had fortunately bought at Constantinople. But still the place was so wretched and desolate that when I sat down on my knapsack and looked about me, I felt sadder and more com- pletely beaten down tlian ever I recollect having done. There was nothing to be met with everywhere but lime — hot, glaring, half-slaked lime, which in itself, dazzling 201 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. in the sun was enough to give ojDhthalmia. We could see nothing from our window but a large hot grating like the front of an immense wild beast cage, and beyond this another, with the tojD of a hot lofty white wall for the horizon. A huge desiccated one-eyed Arab shot some hot tainted water from a goat skin, into a hot tub, for our supply ; and there were, beside, two hot tanks to be used for general washing. Finally, the very ground was some composition of hot lime ; the hot smoke of the sanitary (?) fumigations — something between brimstone and bad j)astiles — almost choked us ; and there was no shade anywhere. At noon, we were allowed to write into the town for what we might require ; and we also sent various letters to our resj)ective consuls, to the board of health, and to the agent of the Austrian Lloyd's Company. These were taken from us with long implements, something between scissors and steak- tongs, and then cut through and fumigated, as though we had been travellers for the diffusion of plague and cholera : but there was such a delay in sending them into the town, that we were thrown upon the liberality of one of our fellow-passengers — the Count Stefano — who had friends in Alexandria, for a meal that night. Our supper consisted only of dates, bread, and questionable water. As the lost traveller, dying of thirst in the desert, has only visions of enormous lakes of water, so I could think of nothing but Cyder- cup and Badminton, and Wenham Ice. The thin priest got on better. Towards afternoon, a sister from some convent — a beautiful creature of nineteen, who ought to have known better — i^resented her A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 205 beaming self at the grating of the conversation jDas- sage, and told him that a supjier and bedding would be sent to him in half an hour. Bless her sweet face ! it came so like an angel's amongst the demoniac groups on every side of us, that, for the short time she was there at least, all our misery was forgotten. As she went away, the priest told her that he was sure we should be at liberty the next morning. Iler white teeth flashed in a parting smile, and then she left us, once more, to our despair. At six, we were all locked up for the night, and we selected places to lie down upon, on the lime floor. Bat sleep was out of the question, and the Arabs kept up such a harsh and constant screaming, that we could do nothing but lie awake, turn from one side to the other in the hope of finding an easy jiosition, and think of horrible things. The fleas and mosquitoes continued in full activity throughout the night; and, with the first blush of morning, the flies, who still remain one of the plagues of Egypt, came in swarms, and flew at once to settle in our eyes, according to their custom, bearing with them from the natives who thus cherish them, and are actually taught to do so from infancy, the virus of ophthalmia. The next day we contrived to hire some mattresses to put on the floor ; and these, with a light crate, or cooi), made of j)alm-sticks, for a table, completed our furniture. We also got some dinner ordered, but as it had to come some distance, everything was quite cold when it arrived. This, however, was of little consequence. We made our toilets at a general stone tank in the yard, and then came back to grumble, 20 G A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOrLE. until it was time to be locked up in our cells ; for, as I have said, there was no shade all day long, in the yard, and the very air appeared to be chiefly comioosed of hot lime dust. To add to our annoyance also, we lost the transit steamer to Cairo, and I was afterwards compelled to hire a private boat or Kanjia for the voyage, which occupied six days, from want of wind, and the strength of the Nile stream at the j)eriod of inundation. The boat, moreover, swarmed with rats as big as kittens ; spiders that led one at once to place credence to the full in the bird-catching powers of some of their race, and darted in and out of gaps in the wood, whenever the shutters were let up or down ; cockroaches, fleas, and their more important associates, with millions of mosquitoes, to whose stings clothes ofiered no pro- tection. I began to think that the American traveller, who covered his head with his hunting kettle, and clinched the stings of these horrible insects with his hammer, as they came through the copper, was un- justly laughed at for his narrative. Add to these the continuous croakings of millions of frogs, the howling of the dogs in the villages, and the jackals in desert places, with the squabbles of the dragoman, with the eight all but naked Arabs who formed my crew ; and then, with a tolerably clear concejotion, the reader will not be able to form the slightest notion of what I endured. I am given to understand, however, that all these accompaniments are considered as so many interesting novelties by travellers on the Nile, and that therefore I should have been gratified by them, or, at least, have written with more or less enthusiasm, to that effect. A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 207 But I am getting a-head of my subject; — to return to the lazaretto. The second day was, if anything, more dreary than the first. The confinement made me so nervous, that I could not settle to anything. I tried to write an article for a magazine, with a hat- box for a desk, but this proved an utter failure. Then I attempted to read, but I could not fix my mind upon the book; and yet it was one of Sir Francis Head's. I have said it was too hot to go out, or I could have walked up and down behind my bars, like a wild beast in a show, and so, perhaps, worn out a little of my irritability. In fact, I could only be miserable. And yet, under other circumstances — as a visitor for an hour or two — there was much to amuse. It would have been comical to have seen the Count, when he expected a visit from his pretty cousins who lived in Alexandria, and for one of whom, I found out, he had a great affection — to have seen this real earnest Count washing out his small finery at the tank, — his collar, ruffles, and pocket-handkerchief, — to api^ear smart when the dark-eyed Ionian girls came. There was a funny Turk, too — the only comic Moslem I ever met — who did curious things with a bottle, after the manner of M. Auriol, and was cunning in passing piastres through hats, and making articles appear where they were not supposed to be, — all of which greatly scandalized the high-turbaned Hadjis bound for Mecca. And the thin priest himself, who still was convinced of the impossibility of our being put in quarantine, was amusing in his way. But I only enjoyed these bits of character in the retrospect, when I got out. 208 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. On the fourth day of our detentioD, came a glimmer of hope and release. The doctor arrived to see us. We were rauged all of a row, and he walked backwards and forwards, smoking a cigar, and looking at us, as I have seen convicts ins23ected in the Houses of Correction at home. We then heard, that after all this wretched discomfort, the board had argued our case; and that, taking our voyage into consideration, we should be aWovfed j)ratique next day. Our various applications had, I expect, but little to do with this. M. Abro told us that he believed a j^rotest of our Turkish companions against the imprisonment, show- ing that they would be too late for the grand ceremo- nies at Mecca, if detained longer, had been the chief instrument of our liberation. However, we were to be liberated on the morrow — that was a fact ; and such a pleasant one that we did not care to investigate it further. What a difference the intimation made to all our spirits. The lazaretto had not been so miserable, after all — at all events, there was great novelty in it ! It was something to sit on the ground at dinner, with a cooj) for a table ; and a great deal more to sleep on it. Below us was a German family — very poor people indeed, with an intelligent little girl of twelve — one of the most thoughtful and well-conducted children I ever met. The evening before, when we had been playing off some tricks in the yard, she had been our best audience ; and this afternoon she came up anxiously, and asked me "if we were going to have a theatre again?" I promised we would, to oblige her; and as we had an hour before being A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 209 locked up, I got all our fellow-prisoners together, and each one did his best to form an entertainment; except the old gentlemen in the high turbans, who smoked their pipes and admired in silence, and the women, who peeped through the gratings, from behind which they had never ventured since we were first locked in. The jolly Turk came out uncommonly. He sang native songs, pitched pies, conjured anew, and be- haved altogether in a frightfully indecorous manner for a pilgrim bound for Mecca. The great hit of the evening, however, was a game of leap-frog, which four of us got up to the intense delight of the others, who did not appear to have the slightest notion of it. The German people sang some concerted music very nicely, and altogether the entertainment was jiro- nounced a success. After we were shut up, we had our last meal together, from the scraps — cold macca- roni soup, remains of fowls, and dates — and then went very contentedly to bed. At dayhght next morning, be sure we were all alive. About half-past five the director of the laza- retto came to see us. He was an old man with spectacles and a long beard ; and looked very much like the wizards in dream-books and prophetic alma- nacks. He shook hands with all of us, which was a sort of little ceremony to show that our touch was no longer infectious, and then told us we were free. Soon after came the valet I had engaged from Key's hotel, to conduct us up to that part of the town ; and then the Custom-house people arrived to look at our baggage. The search was merely nominal — my p 210 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. knapsack was handed over to me, and passing other passages to those by which we had arrived, I found myself once more out of the lazaretto. Amongst several odd stories I heard at this time, respecting the absurd severity with which the Beyrout quarantine is enforced, were the two following. The first related to a shijD in the harbour, and the other to the lazaretto. When a shijD arrives in a quarantine port, from a suspected district, she is placed under the strictest surveillance. Attendants from the health-office are put on board: everything sent on shore has to undergo purification — if goods, by quarantine ; if letters, by fumigation — in fact, everything is con- sidered contagious except money, which is simply received in a vessel of water at the end of a pole by the people in the boats. On the other hand, every- thing from the shore, touched by anything or any body on the ship, is at once contaminated, and subject to the same quarantine. At Malta, this circumstance leads to many rows with the home- ward bound passengers. Valetta is famous for the manufacture of fine mittens and black lace ; and when the overland steamers arrive, the quarantine harbour is filled with the boats of the dealers. The articles are handed up in boxes at the ends of poles for inspection. The unthinking passengers turn them over to look at, and are immediately compelled to take the whole, because their touch has infected them. At Beyrout, speculators occasionally put off with Syrian curiosities — chaplets of olive- stones, from the Mount of Olives ; cedar cones from Lebanon, A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 211 and the like. On the occasion to which I now allude, a sharp to titer had got ahead of his com- panions, and was beginning to treat with some passengers ; selling the aforesaid wonders, and re- commending dragomen. The engineer had, as is common, a little bird in his cabin, that was very tame, and used to be permitted to fly about the deck and rigging. It was loose on the morning of the arrival, and when the touter came alongside, inno- cently perched on his shoulder. In an instant the quick-eyed guardians observed it. The poor touter was declared compromised by the contact. He was hurried off to the lazaretto, in spite of his protestations and arguments, for ten days; and the engineer, as owner of the bird, was compelled to pay all the expenses of his incarceration. The other case was more annoying still. In every lazaretto is a place called the parlatorio, at which the inmates may communicate with their friends. It is very like the grating used for the same purpose at our prisons. There is a double wall of bars, with a si^ace of six or seven feet between them ; and articles are pushed backwards and forwards on boards which run across, in boxes fixed to poles. A person in quarantine received a visit from a friend on the first day of his confinement. Laden with treasures of travel, he was exhibiting some beautiful feathers to his friend, when a sudden puff of wind dispersed the collection, and by an evil chance blew one between the bars into the bosom of his innocent visitor. The unfortunate wight was directly condemned. All egress was denied him; he was told that, of all p2 212 A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. things, feathers were pecuharly susceptible of plague ; and he had to join his friend for the whole term of his imprisonment. In fine, the laws of quarantine appear to be the most rigid of any existing, and cannot by any influence or interest, be evaded. This is not so much to be wondered at when the various incomes derived from enforcing them are taken into consideration ; and, indeed, this appears to be, at present, the sole cause of their continuance. There was a large quantity of beasts of burden awaiting the turn-out — camels, horses, and donkeys. The boys who attended the latter were sad young scamps — little dusky chaps with nothing on but what seemed to be a long blue bedgown. When a stranger appeared, they caught their donkeys by the head, and backed them, all in a heap, against him. In vain the valet beat them furiously about the head, face, and naked legs. They only fell back for an instant, and then all returned to the charge again, shouting, " I say, master — good jackass ! " Somehow or another, I was hustled on to one of the donkeys — I am sure I don't know how ; I never chose one — and then we set off at a quick easy amble towards Alexandria. The road was regularly made — broad and very level, and bordered with acacia trees; and over garden-walls I saw, for the first time, the graceful date-palms and banana trees. All along the road were strings of baggage camels — many more together than I had seen either at Smyrna or Constantinople — with a great number of women, scantily clad, and all carrying water-jars on their heads, which they balanced wonderfully. Then we passed Cleopatra's A MONTH AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 213 Needle ; and then I insisted upon seeing Pompey's Pillar before we went to the hotel, and a circuit was made accordingly. It was a very familiar object; one there could be no mistake about upon api^roaching. I tried to feel as other writers have felt — when, as they have affirmed the names of Herodotus, Ptolemy, and other ancients, rose up before them, as they gazed at the pillar — but I could not ; for the only names that Pompey's Pillar most readily suggests, are those painted on it, in enormous letters a foot high, visible a quarter of a mile off; and as these are, respectively, G. Button, and W. Thompson, of Sunderland, no remarkable enthusiasm is created. I was glad to find myself at last in the comfortable transit hotel at Alexandria ; and looking out from my lofty bedroom into its broad bright square. Every- thing was sunny and cheering : new impressions, more striking even than those I had already received, were in store for me ; and the next evening would find me, with a boat and crew of my own, journeying on towards the mighty Nile, with all the land of the solemn and mystic Egypt before me. APPENDIX. With the wish to make this volume something more than a mere recollection of travel, I have ventured to add an Appendix of such information as may be useful to any traveller about to make the same journey. Whilst on my way to the East, I remember the eagerness with which I questioned certain returned travellers respecting various points connected with living and expenses at Constantinople, about which I could get at no accurate information in the guide- books. I have now thrown together my notes on these subjects, and I hope they will be found as useful to others as I should have found them myself this time last year. 1. The Journey. 1. The direct line to Constantinople by the English boats, starting from Southampton, is that usually patronised by travellers with much luggage, and in such cases is decidedly the preferable one. As full information connected with the departure of these fine vessels may be obtained at the London offices, it is unnecessary to repeat it here, beyond stating 21 G APPENDIX. that the fares are, for the First class, £*41, and for the Second, £27 lOs. Passengers' servants are charged £22. 2. The excellent service of the French Paqiiebots- Postes de la Mediterranee, which start from Marseilles, is less generally known. This is by far the best method for the mere tourist, unencumbered with lug- gage; and it is also the most agreeable, and cheapest. There are two lines from Marseilles to Malta. One of these is a direct one ; the other touches at Genoa, Leghorn, Civita-Vecchia, Naples, and Messina ; and both are so arranged as to correspond, at Malta, with the boat proceeding, without loss of time, to Con- stantinople. The departures take place three times a month, and are very regular. The direct boat to Malta starts on the 1st, 1 1th, and 21st ; that touching at Italy, on the 9th, 19th, and 29th; and all these arrive respectively in time for one or the other of the boats which leave Malta in turn, on the 5th, 15th, and 25th, and arrive at Constantinople on the day week of their departure from that port. The fares are — presuming the direct line be chosen — from Marseilles to Constantinople : first class, 465 francs; second, 279 francs; third, 186 francs; fourth 116 francs; or, in rough sums, respectively about 18/. 12s.; 11/.; 7/. 10a\; 4/. 12s. The living is not included in this, but the tariff is fixed at six francs a-day for first-class passengers, and four francs for the second. This must be paid whether the passengers partake of the meals or do not. If there are servants on board, they have their meals in the second cabin, after the j)assengers, but are not allowed APPENDIX. 217 to join them at any time. Tlie third and fourth class passengers can lay in their own stock, hut may get anything from the restaurateur on board by paying for it. I add the bill of fare of one day's dinner, in the fore-cabin, taken at random: — Scamandre. 20 Aout. I*otage piu-ee aux pommes. Bceuf garni. Langue a la sauce poivrade. Volailles a la financiere. Haricots au blanc. Gigot roti. Salade. Desserte. Vin. The mere expenses of conveyance from London to Marseilles, via Folkestone, Boulogne, Paris, Lyons, and Avignon, by steamer, railway, and diligence, are ] 30 francs. This is for the banquette of the diligence and second class of the railways, but the arrangements are so good that it is a mere throwing away of money for a tourist to go in the more expensive places. The route from Paris, at present, is by rail to Tonnerre, and thence by diligence to Dijon; from Dijon to Chalons by rail ; from Chalons to Lyons by steamer, on the Saone ; from Lyons to Avignon by diligence, and from Avignon to Marseilles by the rail. The journey occupies three days and three nights; of these two nights only are passed on the road. When the line of railway is completed from Paris to Avignon, of course the time will be considerably abridged. The route is most interesting, and has the incalculable advantage of avoiding all the rolling misery of the Bay of Biscay. 2 1 8 APPENDIX. The expense, then, of the actual travelling, will be:— First class. Second class. London to Paris 63 /r. 46 fr. Paris to Marseilles 130 . Marseilles to Constantinople . . . 465 . 658 Hotel expenses 50 Steamboat living (12 days) .... 72 279 409 50 48 507 Total from London to Constantinople 780 . Or, first class, about £31 ; second ditto, about £20. This is the lowest estimate for these classes, and includes only absolute and indispensable expenses. Those wishing to " rough" it, may effect a still greater saving, by taking a deck passage along the Mediter- ranean; but they must be tolerably sure of fine and warm weather. 3. The other routes are, by railway to Vienna — and there is now an uninterrupted line from Ostend to that city, by Cologne, Hanover, and Dresden, and thence by the Danube to the Black Sea, and so down the Bosphorus; or to Trieste, by railway, and thence by the steamers of the Austrian Lloyd's Company. Each of these routes is, however, too complicated and circuitous to give an estimate of in this place. I may mention, however, that the Austrian Lloyd's boat leaves Trieste for Constantinople once a week — starting, at present, every Thursday, and arriving at Constantinople on the Sunday week following. They have, at present, twenty-six boats in their fleet, and five new ones are being built. The arrangements are, in general, very good, and the fares and regulations APPENDIX. 219 about the same as those on board the French packets. Their largest vessel is the Austria, of three hundred and sixty horse power; and the smallest, the Francesco Carlo, of forty. 4. Having given the usual routes to Constantinople, I may now, perhaps, interest some of my readers in detailing the time which I myself took; and I will also add — I believe, on a novel plan — the expenses and the distances of each day. I must i^remise I started with a companion, and we each had a knapsack to carry our things. This latter article was made for me by Mr. Browne, sadler, of Chertsey, and cost ^1. It was four inches deep, thir- teen broad, and twelve long. A round tin case at the top was added afterwards. It was in three por- tions, for better dividing the articles it contained, and one of these could turn upon emergency into a sort of saucepan, to go over a spirit lamp which went inside it. It was at times useful for furnishing hot •water, when there would otherwise have been a diffi- culty in procuring it. I contrived to put the following articles into my knapsack. It was tolerably heavy when charged, but I am blessed with broad shoulders and a good consti- tution, and I never felt distressed : A coat, waistcoat, and trowsers, of thin black tweed, ■which were very light, and when folded up could have been put in a hat. These were for such occasions as might occur when something like evening dress was necessary. They were made for me by Mr. Astley, of the Quadrant, at a small expense. A pair of light French hrodcquins. 220 APPENDIX. Five shirts: four coloured, and oue white — also for great occasions. Four pocket handkerchiefs. Two hlack silk neck-ties. Four pairs of lamb's-wool socks. Comb and brush ; with some oil-silk bags for hold- ing soap, sjoouge, nail and tooth brush. A " housewife," containing pins, needles and thread, scissors and buttons. (These latter articles went in the j)ocket at the side of the knapsack, for ready use.) In the tin case at the top I had a strange collection of things. They comprised a few Seidlitz powders, some laudanum, and a box of Brokedon's com- pressed soda. I also tucked in some sticking-plaster, a dozen steel jjens, a portable ink-stand, with writing paper, a box of water-colours, note -books, string, lucifers, and other minor comforts. When all these things were packed there was still room for what few souvenirs I might collect on the way. My travelling dress was a blue blouse with useful pockets, and a broad-brimmed felt hat. I started in a cap, but the sun so caught my face on the Moselle, that I bought the hat at Metz. I had a stout j)air of shoes — not too thick, which is a great mistake ; and a kind of pouch to hang at my side, and hold a hand- book or map, block drawing-book, knife, &c. I took the i£20 circular notes of Herries and Farquhar, which, by the way, would be more convenient if made, like some of the other banks, for d£lO. The great advantage of a knapsack — and I speak from the experience of several tours made with one — APPENDIX. 221 is, that you are so completely your own master. You are dependent upon no porters, mules, or convey- ances ; you come and go as you please, and you have always got all you have about you. Your expenses are also considerably diminished. The above list may be altered, according to the views of the tourist, but I do not think he will be able to improve it, so as to increase his comfort. The expenses of the following route have been kept in French francs, as being the readiest way of com- puting them, in consequence of the constant change of the money. They pass well all over Switzerland, and a great portion of Italy ; but the old Spanish pillar-dollar will be found the most advantageous coin about the Levant. I have commenced calculating the expenses at Ostend, as the methods of getting there may be very much varied, according to the time and exigencies of the traveller. Table. Time and Expenses of the Journey from London to Con- stantinople, by Switzerland, Italy, Malta, Athens, and Smyrna. 1849. Francs. Centimes. June 9. Eail from Ostend to Antwerp: third class 4 50 Hard eggs, bread, &c., bought on the line 50 — 10. Bill at Antwerp : dinner, bed, and breakfast. — Hotel du Pare ... 10 B-ail to Cologne, also third class . . 10 50 Carried over, 25 50 222 APPENDIX. Francs. Centimes. Brouglit over, 25 50 Eefresliment at Liege 1 Omnibus into Cologne 50 June 11. Bill at Cologne. — Badischer Sof. Very clieap 4 50 Steam fare to Mayence, fore-part of boat. Part of tliis was lost, since owing to the troubles on tbe Ehine, we were obliged to stop atCoblentz. I have, however, put down all casualties 7 50 Limch on board 1 — 12. Bill at Coblentz. — Gasthof ztim Rheinherg. Dinner and bed . . 6 25 Fare to Treves, by the MoseUe ; fore cabin 7 50 Dinner on board 3 50 — 13. Bill at Berncastcl, on the Moselle. Drei Konigen. Supper and bed . 4 Breakfast on steamer 2 Dinner at Treves, (table-d'hote) . . 2 50 Diligence fare from Treves to Luxem- bourg, (banquette) 11 — 14. BlU at Luxembourg. — Sotel de Cologne 4 50 Fare to Metz by diligence, (banquette) 6 Eefreshment on the road .... 1 50 — 15. Bill at Metz. — Eotel d' Europe. Dinner at table-d'hote, bed, and breakfast 7 50 Diligence fare to Strasburg .... 15 Dinner on road 3 — 16. Cab from diligence to inn .... 1 BUI at Strasburg. — Hotel de la Ville de Metz. Only breakfast, and Carried forward, 115 25 APPENDIX. 223 Francs. Centimes. Brought forward, 115 25 room to wash, after all night in the diligence 3 EailtoBale 11 Juno 17. BUI at Bale : dinner and bed. Cou- ronne 4 Breakfast at Rheinfelden .... 1 50 "Wine at Stein 50 — 18. BUI at Frick. — Les Saisins. Very- cheap : supper and bed .... 2 Breakfast at Brugg 2 50 Wine at Botzberg 1 RaU to Zurich from Baden .... 1 50 — 19 and 20. Bill at Zurich..— Sotel Baur. First-rate house 18 Steamer to Horgen 50 Wine at Baar 50 Breakfast at Zug. Ochs .... 2 50 — 21. BUI at Art. — Aigle Noir. Dinner, bed, and breakfast 9 Lunch, going up Bigi, at the Unter Dachli 1 50 More refreshment at the Staffel . . 1 — 22. Bill at the E/igi Kulm ; supper and bed 4 50 Breakfast at Weggis 2 Expenses at Lucerne, the day ; and steamer to Fluelyn, and also from Weggis to Lucerne 5 — 23. BUlat Amsteg.— Cer/(^'or . ... 4 50 Breakfast at Wasen : eggs, bread, butter, and wine. Post .... 1 Wine at Andermatt 50 — 24. BUI at Hospenthal. — Lion d'or. Dinner, bed, and breakfast ... 9 50 Carried over, 202 25 224 APPENDIX. Francs. Centimes. Brought over, 202 25 50 50 50 50 50 Luncli at the Hhone Glacier ... 1 June 25. Bill at the Grimsel Hospice ... 8 Lunch at the Handeck 2 — 26. Bill at Meyringen. — Sauvage, with bath, and purchases of soap, poma- tum, &c., at the inn 11 Beichenbach cascade Breakfast at Bosenlaui 1 Lunch at the Scheideck chalet ... 1 — 27. Bill at Grindelwald. — L'Aigle ... 7 Strawberries and milk, and cannon for echo, at the half-way chalet . 1 Breakfast at the Wengern Alp . . 1 Wine. Lauterbnmnen 1 Share of trap to Interlaken .... 2 — 28. Bill at Interlaken. Dinner, bed, breakfast, and lunch. Interlaken, 11 Steamer to Thun 1 — 29. Bill at Thun.— 5eZ?e Vue ; dear . . 10 Ddigence to Berne 3 — 30, and July 1. Bill at Berne. — Couronne : and sights 21 Diligence to Thun 3 July 2. Bill at MiiUiaen. Supper, bed, and car to Kandersteg 8 Breakfast at Kandersteg .... 1 50 Lunch. Schwaranbach 2 — 3. BUI at Leuk, with baths, extra meal in morning, &c 11 — 4. BUI at Sierre. — Soleil 6 Voiture (return) to Martigny ... 6 50 Lunch at Sion 1 — 5. Limch at Orsieres. — Sotel des Alpes 1 Eefreshment at Canteen 1 Carried forward, 327 75 APPENDIX. 225 Franca. Centimes. Brought forward, 327 75 July 6. Gave to ConTent of St. Bernard for supper and bed 5 Snack at Canteen, returning ... 50 Lunch at Orsiores 1 10 ^- 7. Bill at Martigny. — Hotel de la Tour, (including the 4th) 15 Car to Bex 4 Lunch at Bex. — Union 1 Omnibus to ViUeneuve 2 Steamboat fare to Geneva .... 5 — 8, 9, 10. Bill at Geneva. — Couronne . . 25 Sardinian passport 4 Fare to Chamonix 16 Breakfast at BonnevUle 2 50 Eefreshment at Cluses 1 — 11. Bill at Chamonix. — Union .... 7 — 12, 13, 14, 15. Bill at Chamonix. — Londres, 54 Expenses at Chamonix, (I knew all the country very well, so dispensed with guides,) limch at Flegere, Montanvert, &c 6 Breakfast at the Tete Noire ... 2 50 — 17. Bill at Martigny.— ToMr .... 6 Diligence to Brieg 13 Breakfast at Sion 2 50 — 18. Bill. 'Brieg.— Hotel d' Angleterre . 4 50 Breakfast at Perisal 2 — 19. Bill at Simplon.— PosCe 5 50 Breakfast at IseUa 2 50 — 20. BUI at Domo d'Ossola. — Ancienne Poste. Dinner, Bed, and Breakfast 8 50 Car to Baveuo 7 Lunch at Vergogna 1 Carried over, 531 85 226 APPENDIX. Francs. Centimes. Brought over, 531 85 July 21. Breakfast. Omegna, on the Lago d'Orta. — Croce di Malta ... 1 50 Wine at Orta 1 Boat to Bella 50 Befreshments at Arola 50 — 22. Bill at Varallo. — Antica Tosta . . 7 Eefreshments. Arola and Orta . . 2 Car to Baveno 4 — 23. BUI at Baveno, 20th & 22nd ... 13 Breakfast. Stresa 1 50 Steamer to Sesto Calendo .... 2 25 Lunch at Sesto 1 Diligence to MUan 4 50 Cafe, &c., at night 1 25 — 24, 25, 26, 27, 28. BiU at MHan.—Sotel de la ville de Milan, an admirably- managed house 52 Expenses to Monza and back, by rail, on the 26th 6 Diligence to Genoa. Banquette . . 36 Befreshments on road 2 — 29, 30. Bill at Genoa.— Oroce di Malta . 13 Steamer, and Health Office, deck pas- senger to Leghorn, by French boat, 7 Boat to steamer 1 25 Eefreshment on board 2 50 — 31. Boat to land at Leghorn 1 50 Aug. 1. Bill at Leghorn. [Thompson's.) . . 12 Car to rail 1 Bail to Florence. 2nd class ... 5 Car to hotel 1 Luggage "plumbed" 50 — 2, 3, 4, 5. Bill at Florence.— Hotel du Nord 26 Carried forward, 738 60 APPENDIX. 227 Francs. Centimes. Brought forward, 738 60 Breakfast, four days, at Cafe Donin, at 10 sous eaeli 2 Car to railway 1 Railway to Leghorn 5 Car to Thompson's 1 Aug. 6, 7, 8, 9. Bill at Leghorn 45 Expenses to and from, and at Pisa, on the 8th 13 Boat to steamer 1 50 Steamer to Civita-Vecchia. Deck fare. French boat 10 Dinner on board 2 — 10. Boat to land at Civita 1 Dihgence to Eome 12 Postilions 1 Bill at Civita-Vecchia, for breakfast and room 3 50 Lunch at Monterone 1 50 Custom house 1 — 11 to 18. Bill at Eome. — Hotel Spillmann. Very fair 80 Passports 4 Share of carriage to Tivoli .... 8 Fare to Naples, with courier ... 75 Supper at Night, at Velletri ... 2 — 19. Breakfast at Terracina 1 50 Passport extortions and pov/r-hoires, on road 10 Porter to hotel at Naples, from dili- gence office 1 50 — 22. Car to Herculaneum 1 50 EaUway to Pompeii (2nd class) . . 2 Guide at Pompeii 2 50 Attendants 1 Carried over, 1028 10 Q 2 228 APPENDIX. Francs. Centimes. Brought over, 1028 10 Eailway back to Portici 2 Guide to Herculanexim 1 Head guide up Vesuvius, for horses, men, &c. (share) 30 Intrusive assistants 4 Boy to lead ponies 1 50 Wine to soldiers at hermitage ... 1 Man who comes up with refreshment, wine, fruit, eggs, &c 5 Aug. 19 to 23. Bill at ISTaples.— ^So^e^ des Etrangers. Very good .... 55 Police and passports 5 Steamer to Malta (deck) 27 Car and boat 3 — 24. Expenses on board 4 — 25. Ditto 4 Bill at inn at Malta. Mrs.Durnsford's 12 Valet, porters, passports, and books . 11 Fare to Constantinople (2nd cabin) . 165 — 28. Expenses at Athens. Dinner, horse, guide, and sundries 20 — 30. Expenses at Smyrna 10 — 25 to September 1. Seven days living on board the steamer, at 4 francs a day 28 Stewards, &.c 5 Total 1321 60 Or, in EngUsh money . £53 The above accounts only include the actual travelling expenses. Some of these were casualties ; for instance, we waited four days at Leghorn for a steamer, and one or two at Milan for letters. But these chances may happen to any one, and therefore I have put them all down from my own pocket-book. APPENDIX. 229 I have not included washing and payments to guides. The first may be reckoned at the same rate as at home; and the second will depend upon what knowledge of the country the traveller, or his com- panion, may possess. It is always advisable to travel in company. The same payment often does as well for two as for one ; and very frequently a bargain can be advantageously made at hotels. It must be understood that most of the above expenses are the single shares of the bills. Living at Constantinople. " How did you get on in your eating and drinking, in the East ? " is a question I have been asked several times since I returned. The answer is simply, just as well as in Paris, or Naples, or anywhere else. There are three good hotels in Pera — the Hotel d'Angleterre, Hotel d'Europe, and Madame Guisep- pino's. There are some other 2>ens ions, better adapted to foreigners. The Hotel d'Angleterre is certainly the best. It is kept by Misseri, who was Mr. Kinglake's travelling servant, on the tour which that gentleman has made so world-known in his Eothen. The arrangements of the house are very excellent, and Madame Misseri is an Englishwoman. The expense is about twelve and sixpence a-day, reckoning in English mouey at its valuation last autumn. English papers are taken in. The Hotel d'Europe, kept by Giovanni Destuniano, who was formerly a valet de place attached to Misseri's house, is very comfortable for bachelors, and some- what cheaper than the other. The expense is about 230 APPENDIX. ten shillings a-day, but it is best to make a bargain. In either case this includes breakfast and dinner, ■with wine, coffee, and sleeping apartment. Galignani, and the Illustrated News are taken in. A double- bedded room on the first floor, next the salon, is to be recommended. Madame Guiseppino's is charmingly situated on the heights above the Golden Horn, and enjoys a very fine view. I am not acquainted with the house inter- nally, but it has been some time established, and is well spoken of. The expense of a valet-de-place is a dollar jper diem. Demetri was stuj)id, but attentive and very honest — two eligible qualities. General Memoranda. Apparel is not dear in Pera. Semple, the English tailor, just above Destuniano's, made me some clothes almost at London prices. Malta, however, is much cheaper, and that is where anything wanted should be procured. Gloves and boots are about the same price as with us. The former are Neapolitan, and very good ; the latter I found wear excellently well. English hosiery is commonly hawked about in Galata. The best otto of roses can be got at Stampas. In the bazaars, rubbish is sometimes passed off upon the traveller. The best presents to bring home, at a moderate rate, as well as being the most characteristic, are the slippers, at a dollar the pair. Pipes and amber mouth-pieces are dear. A tolerable narghile, com- APPENDIX. 231 plete, costs about twenty francs. The glass portion should be bought at the German warehouse in Galata, and the brass work and " snake" in Stamboul. The difficulty in England is to obtain the proper tobacco {tumbeky) for the narghile. At our London shops they give you latakia, which is not proper. There is very little trouble either with the custom- house or passport-office at Constantinople. The smallest fee will keep luggage from being examined, and unless the traveller extends his journey far into the country, his passport is never asked for. COKSTANTINOPLE TO EgYPT. Although Constantinople is the subject of this volume, yet the journey down to Egypt so frequently follows a visit to Stamboul, that I hope the following estimates will not be found out of place ; more espe- cially as I do not think they are given in any other book. They are simply such as I should have been glad of myself, before making the journey. I have, to avoid confusion, kept them, as before, in French francs. Constantinople to Alexandria. Francs. Fare to Alexandria, by tke Austrian Lloyd's boats. Second class 155 Living on board 21 Hotel bill at Smyrna (30 hours), boats, passports, &c. 18 To Alexandria . .194 Alexandria to Cairo, By private boat, having missed the transit steamer. Estimate for two travellers, with dragoman, reis or 232 APPENDIX. captain, and crew of seven Arabs. We left Alexan- dria on Saturday evening, and got to Boolak, the port of Cairo, on the Thursday night following, but too late to land that evening. Bill at Alexandria (Key's). Two days ; with a dozen of pale ale, ordered to the Laza- retto, two dozen for the Nile boat, with Cognac. Half share, as usual .... 62 francs. I can recommend Giovanni Eavezzano, with great confidence, as a dragoman, from Alexandria onwards. He is always to be heard of at Eey's hotel, where his father was head- waiter last autumn. He is civil, quick, and intelligent; speaks very fair English, as well as French, Italian, and Arabic, and is an admirable cook. He was with me in the Kandjia on the Nile; on the desert, with the camels; and gene- rally about Cairo, the Pyramids, &c.; and under all circumstances perfectly understood his duties. On board the Nile boat, he had a dollar a day ; and after- wards at Cairo, where he kept himself, six shillings. This expense, like all my others, was shared. Expenses of the Nile Boat, etc. These are copied from Eavezzano's account. The prices are in piastres, at about one hundred to a sovereign. Every article was of the commonest description. Piastres. Hire of the Kandjia and crew, from Alex- andria to Cairo 250 Gratuity to Eeis and men 35 Carried over, 285 APPENDIX. 283 Piastres. Brought over, 285 Four tumblers 3 Fourteen plates 20 Two cups 6 Two knives and forks 8 Eight iron spoons 8 A corkscrew 3 A small iron grate 14 A milk-can 4 A saltcellar 3 A bottle of oil 5 ,, of vinegar 2 A dutch cheese 9 A jar of butter 20 Pepper and spices 4 Salt 4 Potatoes 9 Flour 4 Eice 4 Pots and pans 15 Tea (execrable) 4 Coffee 7 Soap 1 Charcoal 20 Board to cut meat on 5 Onions 4 Waste paper and string 4 Grapes 5 Apples 5 Bananas 6 Baisins 3 Almonds 3 Two lanterns 12 A coffee-pot and mUk jug 5 Cheese-grater 2 Carried forward, 536 234 APPENDIX. Piastres. Broxight forward, 536 Two mattresses 120 Two 'won fouriieaux 20 Ten napkins (calico) 14 Bread 20 A piece of mutton 25 Seven fowls 18 Pive cafasses (crates and coops) .... 9 A truck to take the things 10 Custom-house dues 5 Porters 3 Donkey hire 4 Vegetables, salad, &c 18 Gunpowder 15 Shot 6 Caps 3 Salaisons and sardines 15 Sugar 12 A kitchen knife and hone 5 Lucifers 1 Candles 20 Tea-pot 8 At Aifeh. Lamp-oil 6 Grain for the fowls 1 Eggs 2 Milk 3 On the Nile. Some mutton 9 Milk and eggs 2 Donkeys, to land at Boolak 3 Sundries impossible to be deciphered in the account 20 Total of boat expenses . . 933 Or about £9 98. APPENDIX. 236' So we have expended, from Constan- tinople to Alexandria, 194 francs, whicli we wiU call £8 Bill at Alexandria, 62 francs, or about 2 10 Half of boat expenses to Cairo, 933 piastres, or £9 9s 4 14 6 Constantinople to Cairo .... £15 4 6 Everything should be of the cheapest description, because, after your arrival at Cairo, unless you are proceeding up the Nile, your stores are perfectly useless. Quarantine. Great modifications have of late taken place, vdth respect to the duration of quarantine, at many of the Mediterranean ports, on returning from the East. At Malta, the quarantine, at present, is only five days, and the lazaretto is the best of its kind. Of these five days, those of entrance and egress both count, so that the imprisonment is, in reality, reduced to three entire ones. An admirable arrangement has lately been effected at Marseilles. By the new law, (which came into operation towards the close of the past year, and by which I had the good fortune to be one of the first batch of passengers benefited,) all vessels arriving therefrom the Levant ports, if they have been exactly eight days on the voyage, and have an appointed physician on hoard, who can vouch for a clean hill of health, receive full pratique on arriving. This sensible regulation will be of good service to the traffic interest of Marseilles. 236 APPENDIX. The same pratique is granted to the Levant boats of the Austrian Lloyd's Company, on their arrival at Trieste. Everything that diminishes the expense and dis- comfort of quarantine is of real importance to the travellers returning from the East. Nothing repays one for its ennui and general wretchedness. To men it is as bad as can be; and to ladies the misery and inconvenience must be insupportable. Savill & Edwards, Printers, Chandos-street, Covent- garden. MR. ALBERT SMITH'S WORKS. I. THE FOTTLETON I.EGAC7: A STORY OF TOWN AND COUNTRY LIFE. Illustrated by H. K, Browne. Post octavo; 10s. 6d., cloth, n. THE NATUKAI. HISTORY of THE GENT. Profusely Illustrated by Henning. Sixth Edition, Price Is. THE NATURAL HISTORV OF THE BAIiIiET GHlIi. Profusely Illustrated by Henning. Fourth Edition. Price Is. rv. THE NATURAIi HISTORIT of THE FLIRT. Profusely Illustrated by Gilbert, Henning, and Gavarni. Fourth Edition. Price Is. V. THE NATURAL HISTORIT OF " STUCK-UP PEOPLE." Profusely Illustrated. Fourth Edition, One Shilling. VI. THE NATURAL HISTORIT of EVENING PARTIES. Profusely Illustrated by John Leech. Fourth Edition, One Shilling, vn. THE NATURAL HISTORY of THE IDLER ABOUT TOWN. Illustrated by Henning. Second Edition, One Sliilling. vin. A BOVrL OF PUNCH. A SELECTION OF POPULAR SKETCHES, ETC. Profusely Illustrated. Second Edition, One Sliilling. DAVID BOGUE, FLEET STREET. NEW ENTERTAINING PERIODICAL. THE TOWN AND COUNTRY MISCELLANY. EDITED BY ALBERT SMITH. PUBLISHED MONTHLY, PRICE SIXPENCE. CONTENTS OF PAZtT X. MB. PEING's BIRTHDAY: A MORAL TALE. TOUCHING GLADES AND FAIRIES. THE STORY OF DIOGENES. THE SACRO MONTE AT VARALLO. DATE-STONES. (PICKED UP IN SYRIA.) A BIDE UPON A BUFFALO BULL. " A NIGHT WITH THE SPEAKER." THE SEASON. THE WOMEN OF FRANCE. AN OLD NEWSPAPER AND POCKET-BOOK. WHAT SHALL ITS NAME BE? THE AMUSEMENTS OF THE MONTH. PART II. will appear on MAY 1. DAVID BOGUE, FLEET STREET. NEW WOEK JTJST PUBLISHED. MB. F. K. HUNT. THE FOURTH ESTATE: C0NTBIBDTI0N3 TOWARDS A HISTOEY OF NEWSPAPERS, AND OP THE LIBERTY OF THE PRESS. BY F. KNIGHT HUNT. Two vols, post 8vo, 21s. " Mr. Hunt may claim the merit of having produced a couple of the most agreeable and instructive volumes that have appeared during the season. * * * Altogether we anticipate a wide circulation for these interesting volumes. There is no one connected with Uterature or the press, no devotee to poUtics, no student of history, no lover of liberty, who ought not to welcome a work so agreeably written on a subject hitherto so unjustifiably neglected." — Daily News. " There is more of like pleasant anecdote in the volume, particularly relating to the late history of the press and those connected therewith." — AtheneBvm. DAVID BOGUE, FLEET STREET. THE EUROPEAN LIBRARY a Collection of ti)c BEST WORKS OF THE BEST AUTHORS. At tlie low Price of 3s. 6d. per Volume. Bering-ton.— LITERARY HISTORY of the MIDDLE AGES, from Reign of Augustus to the Revival of Learning. By the Rev. Joseph Bebwg' One vol. " An erudite work, comprehending an account of the state of learning from the close o Augustan era down to the fifteenth century, and forming a desirable preliminary volun HaUam's 'Introduction to the Literature of the Middle Ages.' " — Atlas. Bouterwek.— History of SPANISH LITERATURE. By Fbedei BODTEKWEK. One vol. " Bouterwek has executed his task with an extent of erudition, truth, and regard tc instruction of his readers, which seem peculiar to German writers. I am more indebtc this than to any other critical work." — Sis?nondi. Carrel ) History of the COUNTER REVOLUTION, for the re-estaK and V ment of Popery in England under Charles II. and James Fox. \ by Armand Cakrel ; — to which is added. History of the Ea Part of the REIGN of JAMES II. ; by C. J. Fox. One vol. " The reigns of the last two Stuarts have been written with the mind of a statesman the hand of a vigorous writer, by Armand Carrel." — Edinburgh Review. De Vig-ny. — CINQ MARS ; or, a Conspiracy under Louis XIII, Historical Romance. By Count Alfred de Vigny. One vol. " One of the best of M. de Vigny's admirable productions ; and Mr. Hazlitt has done author every justice in his spirited and elegant translation." — John Bull. Dumas.— MARGUERITE DE VALOIS; an Historical Romance. Alexandre Dumas. One vol. " From the first page to the last the interest never flags for a moment— the stage is n empty, or the incidents or actors uninteresting. Beginning with the massacre of S Bartholomew, and ending with the death of Charles IX., it presents a vivid panorama of terrible events, as well as the picturesque incidents of French society, at that remark period." — (jlasgow Citizen. ^"PP* I Lives of the ITALIAN PAINTERS.— Michael Angelo, I>e"ouincv. i ^' ^^^^^' LL.B. ; and Raffaello, by Q. De QuiNCY. " Angelo and Raffaello arc names inseparably associated for more than three centuries ' all that is brilliant in artistic genius. In this volume we have combined at once a sketc painting during its brightest era, and an account of the two great masters, who ma^ emphatically described as the restorers of art in Europe." — Edinburgh Advertiser. THE EUROPEAN LIBRARY— cowimm^. <»alt ) Life of CARDINAL WOLSEY. By John Galt, With ^^" -. 1. I additions from Cave>'D1SH. One vol. Cavendish. ) " We may safely afSi'm that this ' Life of Cardinal Wolsey ' is the most complete biography if that extraordinary man which can well be met with." — John Bull. G-Uizot.— History of the ENGLISH KEVOLUTION of 1640, from the Accession to the Death of Charles I. By F. GuizoT. One vol. " The best history, both in thought and composition, of the times of Charles I." — Edinburgh Review. Guizot.— History of CIVILIZATION IN EUROPE and in FRANCE, iomprising the Cours d'Uititoire Modtrnt complete, and now translated entire 'or tlie first time. Translated by \V. H^vzhtt. Three vols. '• As a historian and a philosopher, we place M. Guizot in the very highest rank among the n-iteis of modern Eui'ope. In the loftiest of the regions of history he is unrivalled. If ever he philosophy of liistory wsts embodied in a human being, it is in M. Guizot." — Blackwoud. Micbelet. — Life of LUTHER, written by Himself. Collected and irrauged by J. Michelkt ; with additions from AuDlN. One vol. " One of the most entertaining biographies in existence. It is but justice to Mr. llazUtt to ay, that the translation and editing of this work for the English public could not have fallen nto better hands. The notes which he has appended to the text, and the additions he has nade to the appendix, are of the most valuable and interesting nature." — Jolni Bull. Ittichelet.— History of the ROMAN REPUBLIC. By J. Michelet. )ne vol. " We know nowhere so brilliant a sketch of the rise of that wonderful Roman empire as hat which Michelet has presented ; coming from the perusal of Ferguson, it reads like vanhoe after the Saxon Chronicle. In Michelct's pages we tind pictures of national and lersonal individualities ; and are made to take an interest in the fate and condition of the all •ut mu-ecorded Etrurians, deeper than that which ordinai-y historians are able to throw on he most stirring peiiods of the Roman Kepublic. — MaiidicHer Examiner. Wig-net.— History of the FRENCH REVOLUTION— 1789, 1814. By ?, A. MiGNET. One vol. "As a lucid bird's-eye view of that astounding event which changed the aspect of Europe> his volume is very acceptable. The translation is very ably executed." — Literary Cazelte. Miller (Thomas).— History of the ANGLO-SAXONS from the Earliest 'eriod to the Norman Conquest. By Thomas Miller. With Twelve Engravings .n Steel, from Designs by William Hakvey. Xtoscoe.— Life of LORENZO DE MEDICI. By William Roscoe. edited by W. Hazlitt. One vol. Roscoe. — Life and Pontificate of LEO X. By WlLLLAM RoscOE. Edited ly W. Hazutt. Two vols. %* Special care should be taken to order the European Library editions of loscoE's Works, edited by Hazlitt, as in them only are translated the Latin, talian, and Old French notes with which the works abound. To each is ppended an ample Index. Thierry.— History of the CONQUEST OF ENGLAND by the Normans. ?y AuGUSTiN Thierry. IVanslated by W. Hazlitt. Two vols. •' The three great historical minds of France in our time, are Thiebby, Guizot, and IlcuELET." — Edinburgh Review. "His (Tliierry's) History of the Norman Conquest forms an era in English history." — Edinburgh Hevicw. DAVID BOGUE, FLEET STREET. Works by Angus B. Reach. LEONARD LINDSAY; UR. THE STORY OF A BUCCANEER. BY ANGUS B. REACH. '• No peace beyond the line." — Old Proverb. Two volumes, post 8vo., 21s. cloth. CLEMENT LORIMER; OH, THE BOOK WITH THE IRON CLASPS. BY ANGUS B. REACH. ILLUSTRATED BY GEORGE CRUIKSHANK. Post Octavo, 7s. cloth. THE NATURAL HISTORY OF " BORES." BY ANGUS B. REACH. Third Edition, profusely illustrated, One Shilling. THE NATURAL HISTORY OF " HUMBUGS." BY ANGUS B. REACH. Second Edition, profusely illustrated, One Shilling. ROMANCE OF A MINCE PIE. BY ANGUS B. REACH. With Illcstuations by " Phiz." One Shilling. THE COMIC BRADSHAW; OR, BUBBLES FROM THE BOILER. BY ANGUS B. REACH. Second Edition. Sixpence. DAVID BOGUE, FLEET STREET. Books of Travel Recently Published. PRINCE ADALBERT. TRAVELS OF H.R.H. PRINCE ADALBERT, OF PRUSSIA. IN THE SOUTH OF EUROPE & IN BRAZIL; With a Voyage up the Amazon and the Zingu. TRANSLATED BY SIR R. H. SCHOMBURGK AND J. E. TAYLOR. Two vols, octavo, Maps and Plates, 24s. TRAVELS IN PERU DURING THE YEARS 1838-42. ACROSS THE CORDILLERAS AND THE ANDES INTO THE PRIMEVAL FORESTS. By Du. J. J. VON TSCIIUDI. Translated by MISS ROSS. Octavo, 12s. THE BOAT AND THE CARAVAN S dTamili) Cour in iEgnpt & ^Dria. With Engravings on Steel, from Original Drawings. Third Edition, Foolscap octavo, cloth, 7s. ; morocco, 10s. 6d. FOUR MONTHS AMONG THE GOLD-FINDERS IN CALIFORNIA By J. TYRWHITT BROOKS, M.D. I'ost octavo, 8s. Gd. Sooks of Travel — continued. NOTES OF EIGHT YEARS' TRAVELS AND RESIDENCE IN EUROPE. By GEOEGE CATLIN. With numerous Illustrations. Two vols, octavo, cloth, 14s. WANDERINGS AND FORTUNES OF SOME GERMAN EMIGRANTS. By E. GERST^ECKER. Teanslated by DAVID BLACK. Crown octavo, 6s. THE GENIUS OF ITALY: BEING «KETC11ES OF LIFE, LITERATURE, AND RELIGION. By the Rev. R. TURNBULL. Crown octavo, 6s. cloth. TOUR ON THE PRAIRIES : NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION ACROSS THE GREAT SOUTH WESTERN PRAIRIES FROM TEXAS TO SANTA FE. By GEORGE W. KENDALL. Two volumes, foolscap octavo, with Map and Plates, 12s. THE ROMANCE OF MODERN TRAVEL <©r, ^tar:=33oofe of atibenturc. Containing the Choicest Extracts fuom the best Books of TliAVEL PUBUSHEU DUKINO THE YeAR. Fcap. 8vo, Plates, 5s. DAVID BOGUE, FLEET STREET. University of California on. r?^"''"^'^^ REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 Return this mate rial to the library from which it was borrowpH UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY III I II li i HI mill II iiiM III III III II III AA 001 373 033 8 ^l 1 ? { ; i H^ '' ! / ^^(: v-.