• AllSajAINH 3M1 o , Coolies J). t \,< 1 1 1 ^ AND THE NEW AMERICA A Picturesque and Historic Account of these Lands and Peoples By G. Waldo Browne Author of ''Paradise of the Pacific,^' "Pearl of the Orient," etc. with the following Special Article. Cf)ina By the Hon. John D. Long, Secretary of the Navy Japan By His Excellency Kogoro Takahira, the 'Japanese Ambassador at Washington f^atoait By the Hon. Henry Cabot Lodge, U. S. Senator from Massachusetts Cj)e Pjilipptnes By General Joseph B. Wheeler Cutja By General LeonardWood, Governor General of Cuba 53orto lltco By the Hon. Charles \:i. A.LLE'i^ ^Governor of Porto Rico Prefaced with a General Introduction by EDWARD S. ELLIS, A.M. Illustrated with nearly i ,200 Photogravures, Colored Plates, Engravings cs* Maps VOLUME I . DANA ESTES & COMPANY B o s r O N Copyright, 1901 By DANA ESTES & COMPANY All rif^hts reserved INTRODUCTION. FOR more than one hundred years, the United States of America was confined to the American continent. Through the travail and bloody sweat from Lexington, in 1775, to the surrender at Yorktown, in 17>>l, the thirteen colonies were engaged in the struggle for existence, for life, for independence. The war of 1812 was necessary to demonstrate the right of the United States to a membership among the brotherhood of nations. The crucial test of all came a half-ceutury later, when the house divided against itself had yet to prove that it should not fall. Such proof was given with a grandeur, with a majesty, and with a completeness of triumph and accomplishment that placed our country among the very foremost in the van of civilisa- tion, of progress, of humanitj-, and all that tends to make a people truly great. When the Constitution was adopted, the .settled portions of the United States fringed the Atlantic coast from Maine to Florida. The western boundary was the ^[ississippi River. Beyond the Father of Waters stretched an expanse of mountain, liver, and prairie, far exceeding irr area the region which constituted the original United States. Then followed the acquisition of Florida, Louisiana Territory, and, later, the countries obtained by the conquest of Mexico, and, finally, the immense purchase of Alaska from Russia, our traditional friend. Thus far, it will be noted, our acquisition of territory was restricted to the conti- nent itself. It is a fact, of which perliaps not all are aware, that the present popula- tion of the United States can be expanded twelve-fold before its densitj- will equal that of some of the most prosperous countries of Europe. But for the Spanish- American war, it is not couceivaV)le that the out-reaching of the United States, or the '■earth hunger," as it has been aptly termed, would have extended beyond either of the enclosing oceans. To our north lies Canada, so immovably chained to the mother country that not a link can be severed; south of the Rio Grande our tropical neigh- bour has ac(iuired a prosperity and power, under the admirable rule of its President, which ensure an indefinite continuance of the greatness that has lifted it to a plane never before attained, and scarcely dreamed of by its most patriotic sons. Never was there a more holy war than that in which the United States engaged for the liberation of Cuba. For more than a century her people had been ground into the very dust by the brutality of the most merciless nation in the world. Spain, from the very hour that her explorers first set foot on American soil, proved a curse iy INTRODUCTION. aud a blight, and the inherent ferocity of the Spaniard quickly shrivelled into idiocy. When the wit of a child would have taught the groping visitors to cultivate the good- will of the siniple-iiiinded natives, who were eager to show their friendship, and to provide jjlentifid footl for the starving intruders, the latter, iu pure wantonness, murdered, massacred, and tortured to the utmost limit of human ingenuity. Balboa, in the early years of the sixteenth century, was guided across the isthinus by a devoted band of Indians who willingly acted as slaves for him and his companions, aud risked their lives to secure the indispensable food for them. Then, when Balboa climbed the rocky height on the western shore and looked out over the limitless expanse of the South Sea, and was thrilled and overcome by the thought that he was the first white man that had gazud upon the vastest ocean of the globe, he sank upon his knees, thanki'd (iod for his mercies, and then, like true Spaniards, he and his men turned about and cut and slashed the Indians to death. The horrible crime of Balboa was repeated by all the Spanish explorers, without exception, who came after him. The story is one long, ghastly record of cruelty, treacher}-, crime, lihxid, and idiocy. Providential indeed was it for the future of our country that the interest of Spain was diverted to the far south, and that the United States was colonised by the Engli.sh, the Dutch, the Swede.s, aud the French, — peoples who were sturdy, honest, enterprising, and who believed to a practical extent in the Golden Rule. Had it been otherwise, and had Spain been our mother, the history of Cuba, with all its terrifying atrocities, miseries, and failures, would have been our own. The first conflict between the young Giant of the West and the decaying monarchy of Spain could have but one issue. The Titan bhiws of the resistless hammer crushed the paste jewel to powdei\ aud the war, lasting but a few months, huml)led the pride of the decrepit kingdom deeper even than when the lusty sons of Albion aud the storms of a wrathful heaven sent the Grand Armada to the bottom of the ocean. The forces of Castile were driven out of Chiba by the cyclonic heroism of the American regidars and volunteers; Admiral ('ervera's fleet was riddled like so nuR-h pasteboard ; the campaign in Porto llico re.sembled an opera bouffe; and Admiral Dewey, sailing into Manila Bay on that memorable May morning in 1898, smote the opposing fleet aud forts with his unerring cannon, as if they were so many children's toys, set up to be demolished by those to whom the task was the mere.st sport itself. ' If Spain had acted the zany for centuries, the time now came when her own exist- ence forbade her to play it longer. The Treaty of Paris followed, and by its terms the United States became .sovereign over the Philippines, Porto Rico, Guam (the largest of the Ladrone Islands), and subsequently acquired the ownership of the island and harlmur of the Samoan island of Tutuila. Thus was ushered in the era of ex- pansion, and our country gained a prestige and momentous interest in the Far East which give to the present work a value of the highest importance. The first step of our country, however, toward its entrance into the ranks of Powers INTRODUCTION. v whose interests touch both hemisplieres, was taken during the progress of the Spanish- American war by the annexation of Hawaii. In answer to a petition from the islands, Congress passed an act, on .Inly 7, 1898, to annex them, and the formal ceremony of raising the United States flag took place on the 12th of the following August. This group was formerly known as the Sandwich Islands, and includes eight inhabited and four uninhabited island.s, which are situated about one-third the distance between San Francisco and Sydney, Australia. They are the most important of all the Pacific i-slands, and their acquisition by the United States was not only valuable, but a neces- sity, in order to prevent their falling into the possession of some other power which, in case of war, would have used them with disastrous effect to our interests. These islands were first opened to the world liy American whalemen, and, with the decline of that industry and the increase of general commerce, they became recruiting ports to the merchant marine. Americans own nearly all the fertile area, and the larger part (if their commerce is with our own country. Hawaii is one of the greatest sugar- jiroducing countries in the world. Although the transition of these islands from their independent form of govei'n- ment to a possession of the United States was attended at first with some friction, yet on the whole the change was effected quietly, and the government to-day is of the most orderly and praiseworthy character. As evidence of the prosperity of the islands under the new regime, the exports from the United States to Hawaii nearly doubled in the year following annexation. In the year ending June 30, 1900, our trade with the islands amounted to $36,000,000, of which about two-thirds was sugar imported from the island ports. Among the other prdihuUs of the islands are rice, fruits and nuts, coffee, hides and skins, and copra or dried cocoanut. The goods imported by the islands include wheat flour and all kinds of manufactured articles. The natives of Hawaii are called Kanakas, and are rapidly dying off, but their places are more than filled by a new population. There was danger at one time of the islands being overrun by Chinese coolies, but they are now excluded. Emigrants are mainly composed of Portuguese, Americans, and Japanese, and the increased produc- tiveness of the islands is due to their indu.stry and enterprise. Few countries have a more interesting history than Hawaii. Leaving the vague, misty traditions running backward for centuries, it is shown in the following pages that the discovery of this group of islands was accidentally made by the famous English navigator. Captain Cook, who, in the month of January, 1778. sighted the island of Oalui, followed a few days later by the discovery of other islands. Captain Cook, however, did not see Hawaii until the following year, when, sad to say, like many another pioneer, his life ]iai(l the forfeit of his great achievement. A singular fact, having no real connection with the incidents just narrated, is that the widow of Captain Cook survived his death for more than half a century. Since Hawaii is now an integral part of the great Republic, all relating thereto is yi INTRODUCTION. of the highest interest and value. The author of "The Far East" sets forth in accurate, well-chosen, and graphic language the fullest information regarding the topography of the islands, all that is known of their history, the numerous productions, the facilities, the picturesque people, their social and civil condition, the cities, towns, and settlements, and, indeed, all that the student or immigrant can possibly wish to know. The Treaty of Paris made the island of Porto Eico an American possession. It ranks fourth in size among the West Indies, has a length of ninety-five miles from east to west, and about thirty-five from north to south. Since its population is esti- mated at nearly a million, it will be seen that it is one of the most thickly settled regions in the world. San Juan, on the northern coast, is the capital, while Ponce, in the south, is the largest port. It exports a fine quality of coffee, sugar, and tobacco, and imports manufactured goods, flour, and fish. Porto Rico, in 1900, exported goods to the United States to the amount of $1,350,000, its imports being almost three times as great. Another possession acquired by the United States through tlie Spanish-.'Vmericau war was Guam, the largest of the Ladrone Islands. Its area, however, is so insignifi- cant that its importance is due to its being a convenient telegraph and coaling station on the voyage from Hawaii to the Philippines. The island and harbour Tutuila, Samoa, passed by treaty of Great Britain and Germany into the hands of the United States in 1899. The island has only a few thousand inhabitants, and possesses little commercial importance, but it has one of the best harbours of the Pacific, and gives to us a fine coaling station ou the ronte from San Francisco to Au.stralia. The greatest and most valuable possession secured to the United States by the Treaty of Paris was the immense group of islands known as the Philippines. These are more than a thousand in nnmber, with a land area exceeding a hundred thou.sand square miles, or greater than the combined extent of the six New England States and the State of New York. From north to south, they extend fully a thousand miles, with a breadth of six hundred from east to west. Naturalh', many of the islets are uninhabited. The principal islands are twelve in number. Luzon, the most north- erly, is as large as the State of Ohio, and contains the city of Manila, the metropolis of the Philippines, while Mindanao, the mo.st southerly island, is of slightly less extent. The chief products of these islands are tobacco, sugar, hemp, and coffee. Tobacco has been grown for more than a century, and the export of cigars to Europe amounts to a hundred millions a year. The Manila hemp is famous throughout the world. It is protluced from the fibre of a species of banana, and is also used as paper stock. Our exports to the Philippines were only $127,000 in 1898, but two years later they had increased to 1:2,500.000, while the imports rose from $3,8.30,000 to $5,800,000. The natural wealth of these islands is prodigious. Stretching through fifteen degrees of latitude, with mountains of considerable elevation, with numerous streams INTKODL'CTIOX. vii and fertile vallej's, these productions display the choicest richness of the torrid and temperate zones. In the depths of the vast forests are found the most valuable species of woods, such as cedar, ebony, ironwood, mahogany, logwood, sapan-wood, gum-trees, and scores of other kinds of woods, unknown on the American continent. The panave and malave are two woods which have been expo.sed to the action of water for hundreds of years, without showing the .slightest deterioration. Probably the most attractive and useful tree is the bamboo, which seems to grow everywhere, and sup- plies an endless variety of needs. It is the chief material in the con.struction of bridges, houses, and even churches, wliile from it are made ba.skets, mats, chairs, vessels for liquids, measures for grain, musical in.struments, household utensils, vehicles, rafts to float on the rivers, and head-gear. Indeed, there seems to be no vegetable production so calculated to meet the general wants of man. The tender shoots of the bamboo are considered a delicacy by the inhabitants, and the horses and cattle are fond of the leaves. One variety of the cane contains a stone said to be a sovereign remedy for many of the ills of the flesh, while still another kind produces a gum which is a specific for inflamed eyes. Though it would seem, from what has been stated, that the bamboo is the most valuable native tree of the Philippines, yet the inhabitants gain a larger income from the cocoanut-palm, which is universally cultivated. The demand of the foreign market for the fruit is never fully met, and there is no part of the tree itself which is not utilised. The framework of the native dwellings is made from the smooth trunk, the roof from its leaves, and the chairs and tables from its wood. The fibre of the tree furnishes the native with the mats on which he sleeps; its nuts form his meat; the shells his household utensils, while the value of the "milk in the cocoanut" is prover- bial. The sap yields an oil which, in a cool climate, becomes a solid, and is made into soap and candles. It may be said that every hut and house in the interior is illumi- nated by means of cocoanut-oil. Moreover, the delicate flowering stalk affords a delicious beverage, known as the tuba, and the most comfortable of raiments is made from its fine, fibrous particles. Another highly useful pLmt is a species of bush rope, which sometimes attains the astonishing length of one thousand feet. It may be described as a natural rope or cord, with no end to its diversified uses. The mango is the rao.st important fruit of the Archipelago. Its meat is creamy and delicious, and the tree grows to a great size. Two, and sometimes three, pickings are obtained every year. There are over fifty varieties of bananas. The j)apair yields a fruit resembling in shape and flavour the melon ; guavas, tamarinds, pineapples, lemons, huge oranges, the custard-apple, citron, breadfruit, strawberry, and other products peculiar to the tropics flourish in great luxuriance. A remarkable fruit found in the western islands is the durifin, — a dainty, delicious production which, however, bears only once in twenty years. Investigations made since our acquisition of the Philippines have brought to light numerous plants and herbs of great medicinal ^iii INTKODUCTION. value. A striking proof of the amazing fertility is afforded by the common sight, seen on the same plot of land, of the planting, cultivating, and harvesting, going on in alternation. In the words of the author, '• From tlie great storehouse of natural treasures of Luzon, the largest and riche.st of the.se pearls of the Pacific, to the hundreds of smaller gems, all resplendent in a vegetation which clothes not only the plains and the lowlands, but the mountains and the seashore, with a verdure of many hues and never-fading gloss, the florist fiuds his paradise, and tlie botanist his wonderland." Altliough the Philippine group for centuries has poured treasures into the lap of Spain that are beyond estimate, yet it would be unjust to overlook the many serious drawbacks which must be encountered by every settler among the islands. Our sol- diers, who have spent weary mouths in the attempt to crush the rebellion led by Aguiualdo, tell of the seasons described as "six months of mud, six mouths of du.st, six months of everything." The northern islands are swept by the Chinese typhoons, which in one season destroyed four thousand houses and three hundred people. Earth- quakes are so numerous that multitudes of lives are lost every year from that cau.se. In 1863,.ont>-half of the city of Manila was tumbled into ruins, and more than three thou.saud of its inhabitants were killed or injured. Tidal waves have been equally destructive to life and property. Fever, malaria, and other tropical diseases are comnum. and the heat is especially oppressive to una'cclimated persons, women and children being particularly subject to the perils of the climate. The experience of our soldiers in Cuba and in the Pliili])pines, where sanitary conditions have been l)ad, has been att»euded with many fatalities. Such men, from natural carelessness, are certain to suffer severely. Still, the Philippines are not as unhealthful as would be supposed from the foregoing statements. When American thrift and enterprise shall have had time in which to introduce modern systems of sanitation, the improvement in health will be marked and decisive. Animal life in the I'hilippines is less prominent than in many other countries of the same latitude. The wildcat, wild boar, buffalo, liog, deer, and monkey abound in the forests. The reptiles and venomous insects are a ])est, the most prominent being frogs, lizards, snakes, centipedes, gigantic spiders, tarantulas, hornets, beetles, ants horned toads, and enormous bats. Some of the bats have a spread of six feet, with balies as large as cats. One of the deadliest of all serpents is the manapo, whose bite is as fatal as that of the East Indian cobra. It is occasionally encountered in the rice fields, but, fortunately, it is quite rare. Crocodiles of huge size abound in the fresh water streams, and a species of cobra is sometimes seen in Samor and Mindanao. Ants and mosquitoes form au almost intolerable pest. The white ants work in the dark, and destroy the hardest pieces of furniture. It is said that the whole framework of a house has been known to collapse from the ravages of these insects. Every few years, swarms containing numberless millions of locusts sweep the country bare of all the crops, with the single exception of the hemp plantations, wliich are exempt. The only IXTKODI'CTHJN. ix way by which the natives even up matters with the locusts is to eat them, and they are considered such a delicacy that, in many instances, the parish priest has prayed for their coming. The Philippines contain more than six hundred species of birds. Some of these have wonderfully brilliant plumage but among them all there is not one sweet singer. The game birds include the snipe, pheasant, pigeons, ducks, woodcocks, and various waterfowls. It is impossible, in an introduction of this character, to do more than outline in the vaguest and most imperfect manner the wealth of subjects treated in the pages that follow. As we have already intimated, the acquirement of Porto Rico, Hawaii, a portion of the Ladrones, and the immense Archipelago in the Far East, gives an inter- est and value to all the knowledge obtainable regarding them. Their history, their natural productions and capabilities, their" inhabitants, their attractions, their advan- tages and disadvantages as a field for American enterprise, are of the deepest moment to the citizens of the United States. That the field thus opened to our commerce, trade, and industrj- is of vast and far-reaching importance is self-evident. To meet the widespread demand for full and accurate information regarding our possessions in the Far East, these volumes nve now offered to the American public. Edwakd S. Ellis. THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. BV MAJ.-GEN. JOSEPH WHEELER. When the heart of the American people was touched by the crueltj' and terrors which were being enacted in the island of Cuba, and, added to this, came the distress caused by the harrowing tidings of the destruction of the battle-ship Maine with the instant death of 267 of her gallant crew, but one thought pervaded the American mind, and a demand came from every town and hamlet, that this great republic do its duty to suffering humanity, and strike a decisive blow in defence of national honour. The glorious victories which followed the American flag on land and sea, and, almost at the same time, in both liemispheres, resulting in the treaty of peace which was con- cluded at Paris, placed upon our country the responsibilities with which we are now confronted. New conditions therefore are presented witli which it is the duty of the American republic to deal. Four years ago the exercise of sovereign power beyond our Pacific shores had not been a matter of consideration by our government. During that short period, the logic of events has given us islands with harbours which place the great Pacihc Ocean, with its wonderful commercial advantages, very largely under our control. In a speech in Boston a short time before his death, the great naturalist. Professor Agassiz, referred to a work by Humboldt as descriptive but not comparative; and he explained, with marvellous clearness, that in order to be of value, a statement of facts or a description must be compared with something with which we are familiar. It is equally important, in considering that policy which will be be.st for the wel- fare of our own people and also of those with whose destiny we have so much to do, that we keep in mind the fact that our wondrous growth and increased power during the last half century have wholly changed our relations with the other nations of the earth. We all revere the traditions of our country and have profound respect for the expressions of the great statesmen whose w^i.sdom gave us this splendid government under which we live. We must, however, recognise the vastly changed conditions, and the rules which they laid down for our guichmcc shuuld be construed in the light of the present day. Many jiolicies whicli would h:\vo been good a century, or even half a century ago, would be fatal to our t^ountrv's welfare to-dav. Xll INTHODITCTION. Duving that period, we havo ohangwl from ou(> of the weakest to the luost powerful nation ou the gh)be. Fifty years ago, the monarchs wiio .troverned wliat were then the leading nations of the earth established diplomatic relations with scarcely a thought of the young republic on the western shore of the Atlantic. Now, the powerful nations of the world seek our friendship, and none venture any important diplomacy without first learning whether it will be acceptal)le to this great republic. The words of wi.sdom and advice from Washington, Jefferson, and Jackson were uttered when we were e.sseutially an agricultural people. The question of our manu- factures being u.sed in foreign lands had hardly been considered, and in those early days but few of our farm products were sent beyond our shores. Now, in the products of our fainis and factories, we far e.'ccel the greatest cominercial nations. Our production of coal, steel, pig iron, finished iron, iron ore, copper, cotton, wheat, corn, and petroleum far exceeds tlie productiou of those staple articles by any other nation. Half the jiopulution of the world is in what we call the Orient. Their products are very largely articles wliich the world needs and which can only there be produced, or, at least, can better be produced in those localities thiin elsewhere. This gives this vast population a great purchasing power, and the leading nations of the world are exercis- ing every possible influence to establisli with thera favourable commercial relations. Producing, as we do, half the staple products of llie earth, while w'e liave but one- twentieth of tlic population, these markets are more essential to the United States than , to any other nation. The needs of all j)e(_iple increa.se as they advance in civilisation. Railroads and locomotives will be needed by the people of the Oi'ient in numbers far beyond our present conception. Electric and gas plants for lighting cities and houses will be demanded. Water-works, sanitary, telegrapliic, and telei)houic equipments, agricultural implements, sewing-machines, typewriters, and a tliousand articles which we manufac- . ture, these people will purcha.se. Probably the greatest advantage to our country will be the market we should secure for our cotton gocxls. We now produce eighty jier cent, of the raw cotton wiiich finds its w.ay to tlie world's nuukets. It brings ns in its raw state an annual return of about three hundred millions of dollar.s. "When transformed into the cheapest cotton doth, its value is enhanced nearly four fold, and when manufactured into thread and fine goods, its increased value is ten, twenty, and even tliirty fold. Since our country came into existence as an indejiendent sovereignty, diplomatic complications have frequently arisen, a solution of which has, in all respects, been creditable to us as a nation, and no American can doubt for a moment that the problem now eoufninting us will be solved in a wav that will advance the cause of civilisation and work out results not oidv to our advantage, but also to the material betterment of all who are brought under American control and influence. I INTRODUCTION. xiii If Cuba IS called the "Gem of the Antilles," sui-ely the beautiful Philippines sliould be called the " Gem of the (Jrieut." As Cuba stands the gateway to the Gulf of Mexico, so do the Philippines, with their magnificent harbours, supply a gateway to the people and marvellous resources of China and the Indies. From north to south, their extent is equal to the distance from Lake Erie to the Gulf of Mexico. Their surface includes the low fertile lands where rice, sugar, and other tropical products are cultivated ; the tal>le-lands where we find a climate and products similar to tho.se of the temperate zone ; al.so high mountains, which are, as yet, unexplored. Virgin forests of the mo.st valuable timber are extensive, and nearly all minerals are more or less abundant. The people are surprisingly intelligent, considering that they have suffered nearly four centuries of Spanish misrule and oppression. They are very devoted to their religion, and it is my firm belief that, under a wise, humane, and just government, most of them will become industrious, loyal Americans, Joseph Wheeler. PREFATORY NOTE. In the preparation of a work of tliis kind, which requires the consultation of so many authorities, it is difficult to specify one's indebtedness in all cases. The author desires to express his obligations in that part of his work which treats of the Hawaiian and Philippine I.slands to Daggett's "Legends of Hawaii," Carpenter's "America in Hawaii," Musick's " Our New Possession," " Hawaii's Story by Hawaii's Queen," Clare's "Hawaii Nei," Foreman's "History of the Philippines," Worcester's "The Philippine Islands and Their People,'' Lala's "The Philippine Islands," and other books, while he has had frequent recourse to the Eeports of the United States Gov- ernment. Those works most often consulted upon Japan have been Murray's " Story of Japan," Griffis's "The Mikado's Empire,'' Eiordan's "Sunri.se Stories," Lowell's "Soul of the Far East," and Baxter's "In Bamboo Land.s." The author has been materially assisted in the part devoted to China by the works of Colquliouu, Thomson, Boulger, Lord Charles Beresford, Mrs. Bishop, Miss Scidmore, and several others, aside from many miscellaneous papers and documents. For aid in illustrating the work, the publishers wish to express their thanks to Hon. Gorham D. fJilman, who generously allowed them such selections as they desired from his extensive collections of photographs on Hawaii, probably the largest in the country, and to Professor Fryer, of the University of California, for similar courtesies in relation to tlie illustrations of China. CONTENTS. VOLLME I HAWAII CHAPTER I. Captain Cook's Discovery II. The Island Wondeklaxd III. A Picturesque People IV. The Xapoleon of the Pacific V. Ancient Hawaiian Reliciox . VI. The Last Defenders ok the Old Faith Vn. Missionary Work .... \ll\. The II.wvaiian Magna Ch.\rta IX. Rise OF THE Republic X. Industrial Progress XI. The Japanese and Contract Labour in XII. The Chinese in Paradise Xni. Annexation ..... XIV. Vistas OF Oahu .... XV. Grim Molokai ..... XVI. Picturesque Maui .... XVII. The Island Builder Haw PAfJE 1 13 •21 G4 77 .SI) tin iL'ti ii.'j 1.16 107 173 1S3 THE PHILIPPIXES. I. The Pearls of the Orient .... II. The People of the Philippines III. The Animal Kingdom IV. .Sp.\Nisn Discovery .\nd Dominion . 103 208 227 FULL PAGE ENGRAVINGS, Coolies Sawing PLA>Mis. Plidlnr/rarure Natives Preparing Poi, Hawaii. Colniircd Pineapple Garden, Oahu Foliage and Flowers of the Xight- blooming Native Straw Hut, Hawaii. Coloured Kipahulu Landing, M.\ui Landing through the Surf . CocoANUT Island Lei Women, Hawaii. Coloured Natural Arch at Onamea, Hawaii Surf Boat at Waikiki. Coloured View near the Needles, \.\o Valley Kaapena Pool .... Waialua Falls, on Kauai . Naval Row, Honolulu H.\rboir Hanapkpe Falls, Kauai A Hawaiian Hula Dancer. Coloured Fern and Flower Growth, Volcano Koad Natives Making Poi .... Grass House and Lulu Diamond Head, from the Punch -bowl Diamond Head ..... The Punch - bowl ..... Hawaiian Children. Coloured Royal Pal.\ce . . .' . Hawaiian Girls' Style of Dressing . Rice Fields, Moanalua Valley . Waianae Coffee Plantation, Oahu . Japanese Plantation Barber. Coloured Grass House and Natives . Makee Island . Rice Cultivation Avenue of Palms Barking Sands Palms at Waikiki Shrimp Fisherman, Hawaii. Coloured Old Track to the Volcano from Hilo Oahu Prison ...... Cereus Frontispiece Furiiir/ Page 1 3 10 10 20 24 27 32 36 40 41 48 52 56 57 64 66 72 76 80 88 92 f)6 104 112 120 12.S Lil- ian 140 144 148 1.V2 l.-)6 160 KiS ITii xvni FULL PAGE ENGHAVINGS. Crater of IIalkakala, Maci Layson Island Birds ....... SusrF.x.«ioN Bkidof. Connecting Old and New Manila Water Front at Manila ...... Native Milk Peddlers in the Subcrus of Manila Santa Cruz Plaza. Manila Native Theatre, Taguig 184 192 200 208 216 224 230 COLOURED MAPS. Map Civ Hawaii Mai- ok Tin I'liii.ii'PiNKf 8 193 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOLUME I. Pa< iFic Mail Steamer Atstralia Hawaiian- Chief Captain Cook Hawaiian Coat of Arms Scene on Maci . Ancient Pagan Temi-le, Hawa Cocoaxut Island, Coral Keef MritDEi! of Captain Cook Muniment to Captain Cook Shore near Hilo Hanapepe Falls. Katai AVaikaui Falls, Maui Honolulu Harbour from Govern- ment Building Highest Point in the Crater o Kilauea Ohia, Hawaiian Apple Ohelo ..... T-\RO P.\TCiI ... Cocoa.vut Grove H.\waiian Chief of Olden Time with Fe.\ther Helmet -V Young Girl . OUTRIGCiER Bo.\TS W.\R C.\xoE, Olden Time . X.^TivE Boats Interior of Native House LiLiuoK.\L.\si, 1883, Heir .\ppa Xaiive Grass House IviiiixG the Surf View ne.\r Hilo P.\LM Grove St.atue of Kameii.\meii.\ I. Hilo B.\y .... X.\WILIWILI, Iv.\uai Iao Valley WuNAXo Bluff . PAGE 1 2 4 5 6 Riding Bullocks Hanalei River . The Xeedles, Iao Valley Cascades Scexe ox Volcaxo Koad Sulphur Baxks, Volcaxo S Honolulu from Puxchbow 9 Fort Street, Hoxolulu 11 .^ROUXD K.\EX.A PoIXT 13 Hula, or D.\xcixg -girls 14 I Breadfruit . 1") Ieie Vixe I Ferx Growth l(i I U.mbrella Tree, Cocoaxut Island AVooD Scene, Volcaxo Road 17 H.\w.\ii.\N with Mask 18 Hula Girls 19 N.atives Prep.\ring Food 20 I Baxan.\ P.\tch 21 Wine Palm . Bathing Pool, Xuu.\nu V 22 \V.\iPio Landixi; 23 WiLDwooi) Tangle on Volc.\no Koad 2-1 On the Road from Hilo to the 25 I Volcano 26 Xear the Pali . 29 Series of Cascades . 30 Lauiiala, oh Screw Palm 31 Lava Lake . 32 A'lEw XEAR Hilo 33 DlA.MO.VD He.\d 34 Fern Tree . 30 MoRMOx Settlemext, Lan. 37 X.\TivE Shri.mp Catcher 38 I Screw Palm, or Paxdanus 40 Birthplace of Princess Ruth. Ha- 41 I WAII xix PAGE 42 43 44 4.5 4() 47 50 51 53 54 55 5G 59 60 61 ti2 64 65 67 69 70 71 73 74 75 77 78 S(l SI 82 S3 84 87 8S XX LIST OF ILLUSTKATIOXS. Waii.ia Km.ls. Kai'ai Datk Palm Avkxuk, Hospital (Jrol'nds .... Maxijoks ..... IIoXOLl I.l' IN' IMil (iA IIIEKI.NC SfOAK-CANE IIo.NllLll.r IlAHBOrR Vallky ok .Maii Waipio Vallky .... Tako Hoots .... Qr«KN Km.ma .... Ia'.nalilo IIent Dole . Nuuanu Stukki. Honolulu Proclajiation of Rei'i lu.ic, July 4, 1S94 .... Waikiiu Road alonm; the Bea Bishop Hall. Oaiii- Ct)LLE(iE Diamond Head U. S. Cruiser Philadelphia Hawaiian Feast Merchants' Coun i uy Houses Lava IIe.'VP . Y. JLC. A. Building . W'aianae .... Queen's Hospital PrIXCESS KaIUI.AXI IX N .\ T I o Costume Lava I'ii.e .... Street ix Hoxolulu, Royal Fu- XERAi. Procession 1>ANI)1NG Ca ITI.K Akaka Falls, IIii.o. "ilO Feet Higi Lava Buttress . La\a Lake .... Pacific Ixstitute Chasm Opened akikr Collai Lava Cesust . Silver Plant Taro Plant Room IX Volcano House . Volcano House . The Pali . Crater of Kilauea . Princess Kaiui.ani Crater Wall, Kilauea Rainbow Falls, Hilo PAGB 13. J LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. sxi Lava Flow Descent at Lava Lakk, Kii.au Baiiking Sands Kamehameha School . New Road to the Pali THE PHILIPPINES. Landscape on East Side of Min DANAO ..... Mail St.\tion ox Bay ok 1"lui:a.v Volcano ok Apo .... Volcano ok Mayon, Luzon Looking up Pasig River at Pretii Just above Manila Native Village, Island ok Negros Bamboo Bridge, Iloilo COKSTRUCTION OK A PuiLIPPINO IIoUSE Bamboo Yard Native Houses . Village on Mindanao General View ok Iloilo . Manila Street, Rainy Season Manila Street, Rainy Season Types of Malays Negritos .... PACK 186 187 189 190 191 l!):j 194 19.3 190 197 198 199 200 201 •202 203 204 20.5 207 208 209 Native Wakriok fhom Intekior ok Mindanao .... Philippino Fruit Gusl A Wealthy Half-c.\ste Philipi'in Lady ..... Mestizos ..... SuLu Prau SuLT.\N ok SuLV IxTE];VIKWIN(i El' ropean Visitors . .Mcjhammed, Sultan ok Slll IlloRROTES ..... IgOkrote Pipes .... Car ABACS Tijansporting Army Stores Village on the Island of Giimaras Street-cars in ^Manila Young Wild Goat Calao Bird .... Peacock ... "\'illage on Mindanao River Scene on Mindanao Mindanao Warrior . Merchant Vessels, Pasig River Mouth of River Coiiiri.o, Palawan- Village OK Bahele, Palawan . Oldest Church in Manil.\ 210 211 212 213 21-1 21.5 210 217 218 221 222 223 224 224 225 227 228 229 2.30 232 233 234 HAWAII^'' BY HON. HENRY CABOT LODGE, UNITED STATES SENATOR. In the year 1893 the Hawaiian question was one of the leading issues of our politics. Mr. Cleveland then undertook to reverse the traditional policy of the United States in regard to the islands, parties divided over the question, the deposed queen found eager partisans, and the successful leaders of the revolt against her were warmly defended and as earnestly attacked. Five years later, in the midst of a war which furnished an argument so conclusive upon the subject that no man could successfully gainsay it, the islands were annexed to the United States. With annexation actually accomplished, the Hawaiian question came to an end, and it was all so natural, and, indeed, so inevi- table, that it now requires an effort to understand how there could ever have been any difference of opinion in regard to it. The islands have come so easily into our system, and so obviously belong there, that once ours they have been in a measure for- gotten, and, while the country has been filled with discussion in regard to Porto Rico and the Philippines, Hawaii has dropped out of sight. This is due, of course, to the fact that the islands for more than fifty years had been practically ruled by Americans, and had become thoroughly Americanised by the New Eugland missionaries, who had settled there in the first half of the nineteenth century, and by their descendants. But it would be most unfortunate if, on account of our familiarity with the i.slands so closely connected with us for so long a time, and because they have so smoothlj- and quietly become a part of our system, we should overlook their value and their meaning to us, — past, present, and in the time to come. Among the new possessions which have come to us in these last three year.s, so crowded with great events, none is more important to our future than Hawaii. This seems a very strong statement in view of the almost incalculable importance of the Philippines to our position, both military and commercial, in the East. And yet, although the statement is strong, it is not overdrawn, and the Philippines themselves have greatly enhanced the value of Hawaii. The Hawaiian Islands are rich, very fertile, capable of producing most valuable crops of sugar, coffee, and bananas, and of sustaining a large and prosperous population. This intrinsic worth is, however, the least part of their value to us. Look at the map, and their importance, their vital importance, to the United States becomes at once apparent. The largest of the Pacific HAWAII. island groups, Hawaii, lies far away to the north and east of the Polynesian chain of islands, and almost in the centre of the great ocean which stretches from China to California. The master of Hawaii can reach more quickly to more essential points east and west, north and south, than any one else in the Pacific. In Hawaii, also, is Pearl Harbour, one of the two deep-water and naturally sheltered harbours to be found in all the islands, the other being Pago-Pago, in Tntuila, which is also in our possession, but far inferior in geographical position to that in Oahu. With moderate improvement Pearl HarbDur would shelter a navy, and with comparatively small expenditure can be made impregnable. A foreign nation holding Oahu and Pearl Harbour would be not only a constant menace to America, but in the event of war would have an advantage in attacking our Pacific coast which it would be almost impossible to overcome. The mere possession of the islands by the United States is a great protection, and if we fortify them and create a naval station there no enemy would dare to assail the Pacific coast, with Pearl Harbour, so easily made impregnable, behind them. The strategic im- portance of the islands is, moreover, as obvious commercially as from a military and naval jioiut of view. Hawaii has well been called the "crossroads of the Pacific," and although the shortest route to Japan from San Francisco, sailing on a great circle, is just south of the Aleutian Islands, Honolulu is none the less the central point for the intersection of steamship routes and ocean cables between America, on the one side, and Polynesia, Australia, the Philippines, and Southern China on tlie other. Islands possessing the military and commercial importance which has just been in- dicated deserve to be well known and thoroughly understood by the people who have so lately added them to their domain. Very fortunately it is possible not only to write the history of these islands fully and accurately, but that history is picturesque and inter- esting in a very high degree. Their old name of the Sandwich Lslands, now happily v>.\tinguislied, carries us back to an English eighteenth century minister who was him- self a remarkably stupid and worthless nobleman, but whose title and office are asso- ciated with some of the most important voyages of discovery made at that period. The death of Captain Cook is indissolubly associated with Hawaii in the tragic ending of a narrative of adventure which has charmed generations of children to a degree second only /to that enjoyed by Robinson Crusoe. Then we meet with Vancouver, and then comes the career of Kamehameha I., a man of real genius, both military and civil, who consoli- dated the islands under one government and founded the monarchy which has endured down to our own time. Next comes the arrival of the American missionaries, the devel- opment of the islands under their influence, and the gradual intertwining of the fate of the islands with that of the United States. From this period we trace the steady growth of the American influence in Hawaii and the seemingly narrow escape of the islands from the domination of European powers. We meet, as we proceed, with the great name of Webster, who warned foreign states of American interest in these islands, and of Marcy preparing to annex them just on the eve of a civil war which drove all policies, but the one desperate determination to save the country, from the HAWAII. hearts and the minds of the people. Then comes the gradual reawakening of interest in Hawaii, the reciprocity treaty which placed them practically within our control, the Harrison treaty of annexation, and at last the movement which in the shock of another war brought about their final acquisition by this country. The history of Hawaii ought to be read now by all Americans, and the story of the natives and of our own people who went among them so many years ago should become familiar to us all, for it is now one of the most interesting chapters in the westward march of the United States. )x<:^c.-^ C^^^^-^-s^ ^^^^F'v t \ i - Natives Preparing Poi, Hawaii 'ACIFIC MAIL STKAMEU AUSTRAL[A. THE FAR EAST. HAWAII. CHAPTER I CAPTAIN COOK S DISCOVERY. THE seafarer crossing the Pacific Ocean under the imaginary line of the Tropic of Cancer, sailing from Cape St. Lucas, at the southern extremity of Lower California, due west for over eight thousand miles, or one-third of the distance around the globe, meets with only a solitary spot of land in all that long water journey. Should he traverse the sea in a slightly northwesterly direction, from Panama to Japan, he would make a trip of equal length and loneliness, passing midway on his voyage the same ocean isle as before. If he should start from San Fi-an- cisco, bound to Queensland, he woidd again compass his stupendous passage 1 THE FAR EAST. gree-tcMl by the sime luncly sentinel of the mighty deep. But this time he would find soon after pas.sing this spot innumerable islands, isles, and coral reefs scattered all along his way. On the north, however, not a speck dots the watery expanse until the polar lands are reached. This breakwater of the Central Pacific, which old ocean has tried in vain to swallow for numberless ages, is Kauai, the most northerly of the Hawaiian Islands. Forming a happy resemblance to a huge cornucopia of 3G0 miles curve from ncjrthwest to southeast, between latitude 18° 55' and 22° 20' N., and longitude 154° 55' and 160° 15' W., this group of islands is the most northerly cluster of the Poly- nesian Archipelago. While numbering twelve in all, four of these islands are really nothing but the brown heads of rocky pillars thru-st forljiddingly above the surface of the deep, and the fifth is too small and meagre in its re- sources to afford a population, whicli leaves the poet's " seven sunny isles of the southern seas." Beginning with the point of this horn of plenty and running southward the list of eight comprises Niihau, 80 square miles in area ; Kauai, 590 miles ; Oahu, 600 miles; Molokai, 270 miles; Maui, 760 miles; Lanai, 150 miles; Kahoolawe, 63 miles; Hawaii, 4,210 miles in extent. The entire group contains 6,740 square miles, or about the amount of territory of the State of Massachusetts, Hawaii having almost two-thirds of the whole area. The written hist(jry of the Hawaiian Islands covers a period of less than a century and a quarter, beginning with the discovery of Captain Cook in 1778. Running into this from the centuries before there is another story told by the tongue, the traditions of an uncivilised race. Behind these HAWAII. THE FAK EAST. vague accounts of warlike deeds and religious mysticisms, there is yet another era portrayed on the scrolls of the silent ages. This takes us back into the misty past thousands of years, — back to a period when all the waters were locked in crystal prisons, and plant and animal life were unknown. The war of the elements ensued ; the ice king retreated before the equatorial god ; the silence of the solitude was broken by the grinding and crashing of the glaciers. The white pinnacles of the ice- floes melted away, and in their place of desolation rose the mountains of a productive land ; instead of the icy fields and frozen spikes came fertile valleys, with trees, l)lants, and flowers ; in place of the bitter cold, the balmy climate ; on the scene of life- lessness, a race of human beings. This is the mysterious and awe- inspiring picture of the birth of a world. Captain Cook's discovery of this group of islands was an accident. The British govern- ment, pleased with this great navigator's pre\'ious voyages of exploration in the then un- known Pacific Ocean, with tiie coinisel and assistance of Lord Sandwich of the Admiralty, fitted him out for a third trip, placing mulcr his command the two ships Hesolution and Discovert/. He sailed from Plymouth, England, Jidy 12, 177G, only eight days after the signing of the Declaration of Independ- ence by the representatives of the thirteen colonies of America. Captain Cook's orders were to revisit the island.s of the southern seas, where he had twice wintered, "to disseminate and naturalise" some of the useful animals of Europe in that remote region, and to find a northern passage to the Atlantic Ocean. He cruised aroimd in the Polynesian Archi- pelago for a year and a half, leaving on the different i.'slands those domestic CAPTAIN COOK. HAWAII. animals which have proved of such value to the inhabitants. Then he sailed from the Society Islands on his way to the north. On the eighteenth of January, 1778, he sighted the island of Oahu, and, sailing along its southwestern coast, the next day he discovered the islands of Niihau and Kauai. The following morning, January 20th, he anchored at Waimea, on the shore of Kauai, a place noted in the traditions of the natives as ha^dng been the battle-ground of ancient kings. As the vessels sailed up the coast, the inhabitants of the island beo-an to appear in large groups, alarmed and mystified over the arrival of the strange ships. In such numbers did the natives rush to the water's edge, as the first boat started for the shore, Captain Cook ordered a voUey of shot to be fired over their heads. One of the excited mob was killed, but. as the firing was not continued, the natives received their visitors in a friendly manner. Pres- ents were exchanged, and the newcomers were highly pleased with what the}- saw. After staying on this island a few days, and laying in a fresh stock of water and provision, the English ships headed away to Niihau, where they remained until Febniary 2d. Believ- ing he had discovered a group of islands, Captain Cook named them for his patron, Lord Sandwich, and set sail for the polar regions, on what he fondly anticipated was his homeward voyage. In sight of the beach at TVaimea is still pointed out a large, flat rock, bearing the mark of a broad arrow, claimed to have been made by Captain Cook to desisnate the place of his first landins;. In the village are three other stones with similar markings made by the English commander for the same purjwse. His northern voyage proving a disappointment, though he explored the coast of Alaska, Bering Strait, and the Arctic Ocean tmtU finding his progress stopped by the ice-fields, Captain Cook was glad to return to the HAWAIIAN COAT OF ARMS. R THE FAK KAST. south, where he might spend the a])pioaching winter, to resume his search for the northern j)assage another summer. On tlie morning of November 26tli, he siglited for the first time the island of Maui, and he anchored at Waihia. The news of his visit to Kauai seemed to have preceded him here, for he was greeted Ijy a larger crowd than before, tliat considered him as a god, and lii.s followers as supernatural l)eings. His ships were thought to be moving islands, which KM-; l)X MAl'I. could send forth tlmnder and liglitning at the command of their master. The natives showed no signs of hostility. After laying off Maui several days, during which time he had a brisk trade with the inhabitants, Captain Cook sailed along the coast until, on the thirtieth, he discovered the island of Hawaii. Judging this to be larger and of more importance than the others, he decided to make its circuit, which took him seven weeks before he dropped anchor in tlie ill-fated bay of Kealakekua. He had called at numerous villages on his trip, and everywhere had been treated with generosity and loaded with HAWAII. divine honours. Here over a thousand canoes swarmed in the waters around his ships, most of them crowded with people, and laden with the richest tributes the land aiibrded, choice fowls and hogs, fruits and vege- tables of many kinds and rare excellence. In all that vast number not a weapon was to be seen, one and all having come to pay then- free and spontaneous worship to the newcomers. No sooner had the English commander and a portion of his crews gone ashore, than the natives an- nounced a season of festivi- ties and sacrificial ceremonies to their visitors. Captain Cook was looked upon as the reincarnation of their god Lono, whose return to the earth their high priests had prophesied, and he was es- corted to the heiau or temple built in his honour, while the people and chiefs, even to the king, prostrated them- selves before him. Captain Cook and his reckless tars quickly caught the spirit of their tempters, and for eighteen da^^s they revelled in the prodigal sim- plicity of their worshippers. There, under the dome of the sleeping Hualalai, on the rich lava beds builded by this mighty volcano in the centuries unrecorded, and fringed with tall, sinuous, darlcn rested cocoa-palms, half concealing the sea below, unrestrained nature ran riot witli itself. Then the visitors grew overbearing and independent. The temple of the gods was turned into an observatory ; the consecrated platform was transformed into a sail-loft ; the sacred palisades of the heiau were carried away to be used as fuel to cook the food of these newcomers ! At first ANCIENT PAGAN TEMPLE, HAWAII. ^ THE FAIJ KAST. amazed, the spoctaturs l)tH'ame indignant. It had been enough that their rich presents had been reciprocated by a few liatchets and knives, and their magnificent gifts of feather mantles and hehnets had been taken witlioiit thanks. Though they prudently remained peaceful, it must have been with secret pleasure that they saw the ships sail away with their visitors on February 4th. Tlie icy of the islanders proved sliort-lived. Uti' Kawaihae the ship COCOANUT ISI-AXD. COKAL KEKFS. Res(Aution sprung a foremast in hiifteting a gale, and Captain Cook returned tu his old auclioi-age to repair the damage. Carpenters were sent ashore to work upon the injured mast, wlien the natives treated them coldly. The king was away, but the priests remained friendly, and the sailors did not hesitate to show tlieir authority, which further incensed the jjcople. Some of them stole a pinnace for its iron fastenings, which so angered Captain Cook that he resolved to capture the king, who had returned, and hold him as a hostage until the stolen property had been restored. Protected by a body-guard of his marines. Cook went at once to scail:es. SlDlDlc mic*. U9.KI -1 UcBree. U-i-Jt '^ KUDiactrea, 111.S07 - 1 DcicrM. ./ , „/tn! ■■ "-?«r, "■■•■«••?;* ,..,.«,„r,;,n„:.u',.u HONOLULU ^ Statula Mlto. "^^ ^ KATAI 1 -■>. /.. .1 IIPIIMI !; V WESTERN ISLANDS HAWAII ON SAME SCALE »S yiAlN MAP. <"<■■ V • :fe ""'/' HAWAII. 9 the liome of the aged king, who, like his priests, still kept his faith with them, and enticed him to go on board the ship. Already the natives had swarmed in the waters about the vessels, and the officer left in command ordered that a shot be fired to frighten them off. One of the shots took effect in a chief. Meanwhile the chiefs and people on the shore were protesting against the treatment accorded their king. The islanders were now armed with spears and hatchets, and so threatening did the mob become that Captain Cook advanced with all .MURDEI: ur CAPTAIN COOK. {Front a rare old print.') haste possible. Upon reaching the beach a tall islander sprang in front of him, declaring that he had killed his brother. Thereupon Cook fired but missed him. At that moment some one from the wild rabble threw a stone, which struck Captain Cook and brought a groan from him. He now fired his second pistol, killing his man this time. But the cry of anguish coming from his lips caused one of his assailants to shout : " He feels pain ! He is not a god ! " The islanders now rushed upon the seamen so furiously that they were compelled to beat a disorderly retreat, four of their unmber being killed. 10 TIIK FAK KAST. HAWAII. 11 The others escaped by swimming to the boats, leaving their commander surrounded by the excited natives. He signalled to his men to stop firing and come to his assistance. At that moment a chief ran up behind him and plunged an iron dagger through his body. He fell face downward in the water, his body seized and dragged away by the infuriated mob. Firing was resumed by the seamen, but the king called off his people and the scene became quiet. Captain Clark, now in connnand, as soon as he deemed it expedient, sent ashore for the body of Captain Cool<, though .MDNCMKNT TO CAPTAIN* COOK. only a portion of his lower limbs was to be found. The incensed island- ers had burned the rest, except the heart, which was eaten In' some children through mistake, which gave rise to the story that the natives were cannibals. Now that the unhappy affair was over, the people showed genuine sorrow over the untimely fate of the great navigator, whose memory is revered to this day by the Hawaiians. Captain Cook was a brave and efficient officer, doing more than all others toward enlightening the world in regard to the islands of that remote quarter of the globe ; but he was quick-tempered, and possessed unbridled imperiousness, which brouglit him his death at 12 THE FAR EAST. the hands of those who had gratuitously provisioned his shi^is, and every- where lavished upon him the attention and worshipfulness due to a god. If carrying to the enlightened world a knowledge of their existence, these visitors were to leave with these simple people a disease which was to render sad havoc in their numbers and happiness. The importance Captain Cook attached to his discovery of these islands is told in his own words, the last entry he made in his journal kept of that long and eventful voyage : " We could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene ; and perhaps there were few on board who now lamented our having failed finding a northern passage home last summer. To this disappointment we owed our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our voyage with a discovery which, though last, seemed in many respects to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Europeans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean." The memory of this great, but unfortunate, navigator is preserved by a white concrete monument, erected by some of his fellow coinitrymen on the spot, as nearly as could be ascertained, where he fell. It bears the following inscription : '' In memory of the great circumnavigator, Captain James Cook, R. N., who discovered these islands on the 18th of January, 1778, A. D., and fell near this spot on the 14th of February, 1779. This Monument w^as erected in November, A. D. 1874, l)y some of his countrymen." Thus, while the united colonies of America were fighting their first war for independence with the mother country, a son of the latter discovered and explored tho.se islands in the distant sea which were destined to become eventually a i)art of tlie rising repiiljlie. >miKK .NEAR HILO. CHAPTER II. THE ISLAM) WOXDEKLAXD. THE last and largest island discovered b}- Captain Cook was called Ijy the natives Hawaii. — meaning " Fierj- Java," and pronounced as if spelled Hah-wah-ee, accent on second syllable, — and this name has very appro priateh' l)een adopted as a designation for the entire group in place of that of the Sandwich Islands. The coasts of these islands are often bold, rockv. and precipitous, cliffs rising for hundreds of feet perpendicularly from the water. Yet there are sheltered bays, and Oahu has one of the finest harbours in the world. There are at different places along the shores dangerous reefs, beautiful fringes of coral, or long, wide stretches of yellow beach, where the mur- muring tide kissed by the trade-wuids plays at hide-and-seek with harmless glee. The larger portion of the surface of the islands is mountainous, two of the interior peaks reaching an altitude of nearh- fourteen thousand feet ; but at their foot lie rich alluvial plains, plateaus, and vallevs. with silvery streams leaping in cascades from the overhanging cliff's. With few excep- tions the mountainsides are clothed in dense gi'owths of temperate zone 13 H THE FAR EAST. stiirtliness, while the lowlands abound with a tropical vegetation of a perpetual green. Evidence of the volcanic origin of these islands exists on every hand, from the dead and buried cones of Kauai to the living fires of Hawaii. By this it will be observed that the former, as well as being the most northerly, is the oldest of the series. This theory is supported by the fact that only two cones remain on this isle, and these on the southeastern slope. All others have been destroyed by the march of years, and th(Mr IIAXAPKPi: slopes covered with dense forests. The land having luidergone longer change, is more arable, the soil deeper, and the vegetation more bountiful than on the other i.slands. Encircled by beaches of silvery brightness, with valleys and hillsides ])ainted by nature's brush a green that never fades, Kauai is the " Garden Isle." Lying in a westerly direction, about fifteen miles distant, is Niihau, resembling it in physical features. This island is sparsely settled, its inhabitants being formerly noted for the manufacture of mats made from a sort of rush which grow-s only on this island and Kauai, and is now the largest sheep range among the islands. HAWAII. 15 Kaula, southwest from Kauai, is a l)arren rock, wliicli is tlie resort of innumerable aquatic birds, whose eggs are sometimes souglit by the inhabi- tants of tlie windward islands. Oahn, the following island on the southeasterly course, produces more recent and numerous indications of its volcanic formation ; but here are valleys of great fertility, and a niountain range of rugged appearance. On account of its fine harbour at Honolulu, it is known as the '" Mistress of the Sea." KAI.I.S, MAUI. Maui, next in order, attests its younger age, having several craters, the largest and highest of wliirh is Haleakala, " the house of the sun," which lifts its bulky crest ten thousand feet into the air, being the largest extinct volcano in the world. Maui is the " Switzerland of the Hawaiian Islands." South of Maui, separated by a channel of only a few miles in width, is Kahoolawe, with its lowlands, except for a species of coarse grass, almost destitute of plant life. It is uninhabited, stock owners of Maui, to which island it no doubt sometime belonged, having it as pasturage for their flocks. .,. THE TAU EAST. Between tliese trvvo islands rises a rocky barrier, Molokini, used us a place for the ii.shernien to spread their nets. Lanai, separated from Maui l)y a channel of ten miles in width, has l)iit recently become valuable for sheep raising and sugar gro A'ing. East-southeast of Oahu is a chain of volcanic mountains uearly equal in elevation to tliose of Maui, which form in the main the island of Molokai, a long, irregular ridge, with little level land and few plantations, and the unenviable reputation of being the lazaretto of exiled lepers. The youngest and mightiest of the group is the one from which it gets its name, uniini.shed Hawaii, .still smoking, still exhibiting to the wondering HciNoi.rj.i iiAi:i;ciru kikiM (,c)\ ijin.m k.\ i mii.ni.NG. beholder the sul)lime agency of its creation. This island is famous for its physical grandeur and volcanic exhibitions. The legends of the Hawaiians, reaching back over a thou.sand years, fail to mention any activity of vol- canic force on the other islands. The fires of Maui's mammoth house of the sun burned out before man beheld its riven walls, while concerning the erup- tions of the lower and lesser craters the ancient historian is equally silent. What a grand, yet terrible, spectacle it must have been when all the flues of these mountain furnaces were aglow with their liquid flame, which in their bombardment of the sky fairly set ablaze the moonless heavens and the eight Hawaiian seas ! But if tradition fails to describe the activity of the volcanoes of the other islands, it is very vivid in its pictures of Hawaii's volcanic outbreaks. Mauna Kea (the white mountain), Mainia Native Straw Hut, Hawaii ■Jiieaii^ HAWAII. 17 Loa (tlie long mountain), Mauna Haulalai (offspring of tlie sun) at irregular intervals have each displayed their awful energies in cunvulsions that have rocked the island like a cradle on the deep and flung their molten contents down the slopes to the sea. A still more realistic representative of the fiery powers is the ever active Kilauea, with a crater nearly nine miles in circumference, the largest constant volcano in the world. With a uniformity and salubrity of climate unsurpasscil, tlie mean tem- perature never rising above ninety or sinking below^ sixty degrees, and whose southern languor is con- tinualh' refreshed Ijy the ozone breath of the polar seas; with plains and slopes of I'emarkable fer- tility covered with vast cane-fields and sugar plan- tations, groves of kingly palms, sturdy ironwoods, delicate tamarinds, feather}^ algarol)as, star-eyed or- anges, dusky ohias, snowy candlenuts, sunlit papaias, umbrageous breadfruits, flowering mangoes, wine- palms, slender cocoa-palms, hardy pomegranates, twisted haus and wide- spreading umbrella-trees, of plants and vegetables, the fan-leafed banana, tree-like plantain, giant fern, clinging azella, nutritive yam. hulliurous taro, crimson strawberry, and many others, the united offerings of the tropical and temperate zones growing side by side ; with a flora that does not stop bv decorating the rich alluvial deposits of the valleys in a bewil- dering array of flowers and reminders of flowers, but fringes the brinks of the chasms witli the scarlet vine ie-ie and spans the abyss \\\t\\ a net- work of gold and bronze vines tipped witli trumpet-shaped blossoms, tints HIGIIFST POINT IV THE CRATER OK KILATEA. 38 THE KAK EAST. tlie mist ui Xhv waterfalls with the rainbow hues of the convolvidi, or crim- sons with the transparent leaves of the ohia the fiery floods of the craters ; with gorgeous vines and trailers, magenta blossoms and passion flowers, embowering the homes of tlie many races of men living here in harmony and contentment ; with a landscape clothed in a perpetual green, and mountain-tops floating like wliite and l)rown islands in cloudland ; with their summer seas reflecting the azure of the southern skies ; with its beaches of a dazzling A\hiteness fringed with cocoa- palms ; over all an indescribable charm of solitude and drowsy peacefulness, to him who looks for the sunny side of nature the Hawaiian Islands are the " Paradise of the Pacific," the Wonderland of the World. In vivid contrast to Oahu's Edenic valleys and Maui's pic- turesque slopes rises the weather side of Hawaii, lighted by that huge lamp trimmed by no mortal hand, Ijut kept bright against burning sun and waxing moon from time immemorial, and overlooked by the moun- tain monarch with foot bathed in the sea and whitened head swathed in the clouds. Every- where the grandeur and sublimity of the scene strikes the beholder with wonder akin to awe. He gazes on the corrugated streams of congealed lava, on the broken domes of volcanoes long since burned oiTt. on the furnace fires of Kilauea, sees with his own eyes the startling evidence of the internal powers that have builded the mountains, watches the crim- son fountains play on the surface of the lake of fire and the fantastic figures dancing in ghoulish glee at their escape from the Plutonian dun- OHIA, HAWAtlAX APPLE. HAWAII. 19 geons of the inner eartli, until he exclaims in dismay, " The Inferno of the World ! " The indigenous plants are the banana, plantain, cocoanut, breadfruit, oliia (native apple), sugar-cane, arrowroot, sweet potato, taro, strawberry, raspberry, and the sacred berry ohelo. The imported plants are lime, orange, mango, tamarind, papaia, guava, and all edible products except those named above. If prodigal in her floral gifts nature was extremely chary in her bestowal of wild and domestic creatures, and the fauna of the islands a hundred years ago was limited to dogs, swine, mice, lizards, owls, bats, snipe, plover, ducks, a species of geese peculiar to the place, and a few A-arieties of birds of simple song and not very bril- liant plumage. It seems prob- able that annual life was almost entirely lacking here when first peopled by the human race. The natives accounted for the remarkable uniformity and salubrity of the clunate by the following legendary tale of the early days of the islands : A powerful demi-god ruling over Maui, and having his dwelling on Haleukala. got angry because the sun shone every morning on the mountains of Hawaii before it did on his abode. Thereupon he caused to be made a huge net, wliich he carried one night and spread it quite over his rival. As a result the rising sun got entangled in the meshes of Maui's big web, which had been woven so cunningly that the harder the sun tried to break away the more his rays got mixed up in the gauze-like structure. Maui 20 TlIK FAR KAST. watched the struggle with a merry twinkle in his eye, and when the sun had got tired of his futile efforts, he offered to set him free if he would promise to shine on him and Mauna Loa alike, never too hot or too cold, and never allowing mist or cloud to obscure the favoured islands. The sun was fain to obtain his freedom upon such easy terms, and, agreeing to Maui's demands, received his liberty. Ever since he has bestowed his favour with wonderful equality on the seven islands, so that they have TARO PATCH. been blessed with their remarkable climate and temperature. Fogs or mists have never risen to mar the sun's splendour, and lest he should forget his promise and shine too fervidly on his children of the sea, he made a compact with the north wind to keep perpetual vigil over him CorOAN'I'T cntOVE. CHAPTER III. A PICTURESQUE PEOPLE. CAPTAIN COOK estimated the population of these islands to be not less than four hundred thousand, and that Hawaii alone contained considerably over one hundred thousand inhabitants. These people were not savages, as we are apt to apply the term, but bar- barians of a milder and more progressive tj'pe. In personal appearance they were generally above medium stature, well formed, with muscular limbs, frank countenance, and features often resembling the Europeans. An early writer in describing them said : " Their gait is graceful and sometimes stately. The chiefs in particular are tall and stout, and their personal appearance is so much superior to the common people that some have imagined them a distinct race. This, however, is not the fact ; the great care taken of them in childhood, and their better living, have proba- bly occasioned the difference. Their liiiir is black or brown, sti'ong, and 22 THE KA1{ EAST. freqiK'iitly curly ; their complexion is neither yellow like the Malay nor red like the American Indian, but a kind of olive and sometimes reddish brown. Their arms and other parts of the body are often tattooed, but, except in one of the islands (Kauai), this is by no means as common as in many parts of the southern sea." Tliey belonged to a branch of the Polynesian race, which was undoubt- edly of Aryan stock, migrating at a remote period from Asia Minor through India, Sumatra, and Java to the Southern Pacific Islands, from thence advancing slowly north- ward to New Zealand, Samoa, Tahiti, and Hawaii. These facts are well substantiated by the close affinity of the names of localities, men, and physical objects, with the general con- struction of the several lan- guages, so that a person master- ing one can easily understand tile others. Early accounts of the people have been preserved through an order of priesthood, which caused to be committed to memory the more prominent affairs of each family, so that handed down from father to son successively the deeds and gene- alogies of the cliiefs could be traced for over forty generations. These traditions, a picturesque baclsgronnd for its romantic modern history, make Hawaii a wondei'land in verity. Their legends peopled the sea and sky witli all sorts of weird spirits and the volcanic craters of the island world witii demons of fantastic figures and terrible demeanour; they scintillated with deeds of prowess and chivalry, if wilder and more barbarous, none the less valorous than those performed by the mailed knights of the continental world ; their warriors, without shields or fear of death, sprang to battle under the wings of the great white bird of HAWAIIAN ( nil I "I >il IH \ IIMES KKAIIIKIC IIKI.MKI. HAWAII. 23 Kane, as defiantly as the rugged vikings of Xortliland followed the dusky ravens of Odin; their sailors, in frail craft and under the sole guidance of the sun and stars, navigated the seas for tliousands of miles, and achieved conquests in far distant lands; one of their boldest mariners, in the eleventh century, reached the western shore of America, and carried back to his native isles as captives three of its inhabi- tants ; their kings and priests were men of mighty stature, proving by their genealogies a descent from Adam and a kinship with the gods. These sages descril)e a re- nowned cliief by the name of Hawaii, a great fisherman and navigator in ancient times, who, on one of his long cruises, discovered two islands that pleased him so well he returned and brought there his wife and family. The islands he named Maui, for his wife, and Hawaii-loa for himself, and this family, the legend claims, were the first inhabitants of the Lslands. While this statement is to be looked upon with suspicion, there is a very clear account of an emigration from Samoa in the sixth century imder a chief named Nanaula. This chief, after troul)le with some of his relatives in regard to ruling his native isle, gathered a portion of his most adventuroiis followers about him ; and in double canoes, large enoua^h to hold from fifty to one hundred persons, tliis party, accompanied by their priests, taking with them their gods, dogs, swine, fowls, and seeds, set forth into the unknown sea on a voyage of discovery. They reached Oahu and Kauai, which they found unpeopled, and took peaceful posses- sion. They were soon followed by a few others from Samoa and Tahiti, when immigration ceased for over four hundred years. A YOUNG GIRL. 24 THE FAK EAST. Then another warlike chief of Samoa, known as Nananioa, not satisfied with fighting at lionie, set ont on a voyage of conquest, eventually coming to the Hawaiian Islands. A long and desperate struggle with the descend- ants of Nanaula lor a supremacy followed. Other incursions succeeded, one of which brought from Samoa Paao, a high priest, and Pili, a warlike chief, and Hawaii passed under the sovereignty of these two. Intercourse was maintained with tiie southern islands for one hundred and fifty years, of I liKitiKl: liOATS. according to all accounts, an unusually active period, filled with romantic adventures, wild concpiests, and j)erilous voyages at sea. Isolated and environed by water, dejsendent to a considerable extent upon the fruits of the sea for their living, the inhabitants of the Pacific islanils naturally partook of a maritime character. The Hawaiian was in his true element when disporting in the tide, or daring the dangers of old ocean in liis craft witli its curved prow and clumsy-looking outrigger. The building of their seagoing craft, with the tools the mechanic had to use, required no small amount of time, skill, and perseverance. Thus the builder of a canoe became a person of great importance, and the HAWAII. 20 launching of his craft an event celebrated with a feast and the sacrifice of a human life. There were several classes, as well as sizes and shapes of canoes.' The principal chiefs had boats from fifty to seventy-five feet in length, two feet in width, and from three to four feet in depth. The sterns were often ornamented with crude carvings of grotesque figures. The size and decorations were supposed to indicate the rank and dignitv of the chief. WAR CAXOE, OLDEX TIME. Next to these were the sacred craft of the priests, their ornaments set off with feathers. Small houses were built on these, containing the unage of some god, usually in the shape of a bird, and many coloured feathers decked the place. Here the prayers for the welfare of the little fleet were offered, and offerings made to Lono, the god of the waters. Not inferior in size, though less ornamented, were the stoutly built war canoes. With these the sterns were made lower and covered so as to afford protection from the darts and missiles of the enemy. The Ijottom ' This name seems to have originated with the natives of America, and. since the discovery of tliis continent by Columbus, to have been applied indiscriminately to the smaller water craft of the uncivilised races wherever found. — Author. 26 THE FA I! EAST. was round, with tlie upper sides narrow, and the prow curved like the neck of a swan and finished to represent the head of some bird. In order to give the rowers and sail-managers more room and security than on the narrow edges, a sort of grating made from the strong wood of the breadfruit-tree was placed over the hull. The fighting men were stationed on a platform in the forepart of the boat. Ordi- narily these craft were about sixt}- feet in length, and capable of carrying fifty warriors. There were single canoes built in very much the same style as the others, hewn from the trunk of some tree, with rounded sides and sharp NAri\K iliiAI- ends. Then there were the big double canoes, made from two tree-trunks, and sometimes over a hundred feet in length. The very largest of the canoes were made from the trees that had drifted down there from the northwest coast of America, some giant pine caught by a gale and borne thither, a present of the waves attributed by them to be a gift from the gods. One of the single-trunk canoes has been known to be over a hundred feet in length. In case of the double- trunk canoe the builders had often to wait years before a proper mate to the one coming finst would be sent to their shores. The coming of such was an event of great rejoicing, and a feast followed with a sacrifice made to the gods. The canoes always bore particular names, which designated some HAWAII. 27 C'OCllANL r ISLAND. 28 TIIK FAIJ EAST. iiiilioi-tant iueideut cuiiuected witli the craft, or some peculiar character- istio of the boat or its owner. The navigators of those days had a certain knowledge of the heavens, and the five planets, Mercury, Mars, Venus, Jupiter, and Saturn, were known to them as " the wandering stars," while they grouped the fixed stars in constellations. They calculated the transit of the sun and fixed tiie equatorial line. With such understanding and a trained observation of the winds and currents, the floating debris of the deep, and the flight of birds, they were enabled to make their long, dubious voyages with comparative surety. The social and civil condition of the ancient Hawaiians smacked more of despotism than tliat of any other Polynesian race. The inhabitants were divided into three classes: the nobility, consisting of tlie kings and chiefs of different ranks ; the priests (kahunas), including also sorcerers and doctors ; the common people (Makaainana), or labourers. Between the first and last existed a wide gap, which was of a sacred and religious character. The chiefs claimed descent from the gods, and were allied with invisible powers. In support of this they compared their stature and physique with the common people, which was striking proof of what they said. As late as the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries Hawaii boasted of such kings as Kiha, Liloa, Umi, and Lono, each eight or nine feet in height, and correspondingly l)road of shoulder and girth. Beyond these ri.ses the gigantic figure of Kana, the son of Hina, whose height was measured by paces. The chiefs were the sole owners of the soil, and considered not only that the land was theirs, but all which grew^ upon it, the fish swimming in the sea, the time and the production of those under them. This was according to the belief that the king, of superior birth, naturally owned everything. He allowed certain portions to be held by his chiefs in trust, on the condition that they render him tribute and military .support. Then these chiefs in turn divided their territory among under-chiefs, who in a smaller way paid a like return to them that they gave the king. These divisions and sub-divi- sions never reached to the toilers, the slaves of the soil, who did the brunt of the work, and must feel amply rewarded if privileged to live as poor tenants. HAWAII. 29 The head chief of an island was styled moi, and his prestige and power were usually inherited. Of so much importance was he, that when he went abroad he was attended by a body-guard, the foremost of wliich bore plumed staffs of In-ight colours. Did he go by canoe, his sails were painted reil. and lie was the only person who could wear the feather cloak and helmet. The common people were expected to prostrate them- selves on the ground as he and his retinue passed. It was the signing of his death-warrant for a common person to remain standing at the INTERIOR OF NATIVE HOUSE. mention of the king's name, at the mere taking past him of the monarch's food, water, or raiment ; to put on any article of dress belonging to him, to enter his presence without permission, to cross his shadow or even that of his dwelling. If a man dared to enter, after due consent from his sovereign, the latter's abode, he nmst crawl flat upon the ground, and depart in the same humble manner. Lacking metals of all kinds, the early Hawaiians made their implements of war or industry from wood, bone, or stone, — axes, adzes, hammers of stone, spades of wood, knives of flint and ivory. Needles were made of thorns or bones, and spears ami daggers of hardened wood. With such 30 THE FAU EAST. tools as these they felled trees, from which they built their temples, canoes and barges, dwellings, manufactured cloth and cordage, made walls of hewn stone, built roads and fish-ponds, and tilled the soil. They wove mats, cloths, sails, and from the inner bark of the paper mulberry beat out a thin cloth called kapa, wliich they sometimes ornamented with fiiinres and made in different colours. They ate the flesh of nearly everything living in the sea, as well as that of swine, dogs, and fowls, yams, sweet potatoes, fruits, berries, and several kinds of seaweed, besides the staple of their foods, poi, a sort of fermented paste made from taro, a ])ulbous root very similar to an Indian turnip. They drank an intoxicating bev- erage made from the sweet root of the ti plant,' and a stupefying liquor from the mva root. They did their cooking by wrapping their food in ti leaves and plac- ing it in an underground oven. Their household utensils con- sisted of shells, gourds, cala- bashes of different sizes and shapes, and platters made of wood. They lighted their homes with the oily nuts of the ku-kui, or candlenut-tree. Tlie dress of the Hawaiian consisted simply of a narrow maro fastened aroiuid tlic loins for tlie male, a, paic or skirt reaching from the waist to the knees for the female. These skirts were invariably made of five thick- nesses of kapa, and when the weather was cool a short cape was thrown over the shoulders. Generally the heads of both sexes were uncovered. Besides the maro the king wore on state occasions the royal mantle, the mamo, so called for the httle bird that furnished the feathers to make it. Tliis mantle reached from the neck to the ankle, and it took over ten thousand feathers to make it. As each bird had but two of the kind of 1 Iinn)dnoe(l by Hiiany Bay CDnvicts at begiiinirig uf piei-uiit ceiituiy. >w \ LAN 1, l;~.-'.'i. him: a it V I THK ROYAL MANTLE. HAWAII. FA feathers desired, one under either wing, it took at least five thousand of tliem to afford the material for this costly garment. The chiefs wore short capes of yellow feathers mixed with red. The colour of the priests and gods was red. The nobility had feather head- dresses, and charms of bones suspended from the neck. Some of tliem tattooed their faces, breast, and thighs, while flowers were the universal ornament. At festivals, feasts, and other gatherings, all wore garlands of beautiful and fragrant leaves, crowns of flowers resting on the head, and wreaths encircling the neck. This beautiful custom still prevails. NATIVE CRA.SS HOUSE. The dwellings of the conunon people were constructed of upright posts planted in the ground, with cross beams and rafters, roof and sides con- structed of twigs woven together and filled in with a thatch of grass. The houses of the nobility were larger, stronger, and frequently sur- rounded by wide verandas. These buildings were built so the main entrance faced the east, the home of Kane, the supreme god. These homes consisted of six separate dwellings or apartments ; first, the heiau, or idol house ; second, the mau, or eating-house of the males, from which the females were prohibited from entering ; third, the hale-noa, or the house of the women, which men could not enter ; fourth, the hale-aina, 32 THE FAR EAST. or eating-house of the wife ; fifth, the kua, or wife's working-house ; sixth, the hale-pea, or nursery of the wife. The poorer classes followed as near as possible this plan, though they had often to use screens for partitions. The Hawaiians enjoyed athletic sports of all kinds, running, boxing, jumping, wrestling, swinnning, diving, and other games, but the two pas- times wdiich delighted them most were holua and surf-riding. The former consisted of coasting on long, narrow sledges down steep descents, with UIDINO THE SURF. the rider lying prone and borne on with the velocity of the wind. He who reached the foot first was the victor. Tliese sportsmen did not require a snow path over which to fly on their strange sleds, but found the best race-courses over slopes covered with dried grass or over lava- floored tracks. The goddess of the volcano, Pele, was supposed to delight in these contests, coming disguised in some earthly form. As may be imagined, she always became a dangerous rival. Kahawali, a Hawaiian prince, once raced with her when she was impersonating a beautiful young woman. Lei IVomen, Hawaii HAWAII. 33 On the first trip lie outdistanced her, and when she asked for a second trial, claiming that her j>«p« (sled) was inferior to his, he laughed at her and started alone down the descent. Hearing wild shouts and great confu- sion, he saw that she was pursuing him, riding on the crest of a lava wave. In his desperation he fled for the sea, wliere she could not follow him. But she threw stones after him, making the water so hot he perished. To him who doubts this tale the stones are jiointed out on the beach, and the track of the lava stream is shown. Their musical instrviments were the jmhus, or (Irums of different sizes, the aJie, or bamboo flute, the Jinlio. or rude clarionet, and a few ruder instruments than even these. The}- had several dances, of which the hula, par- ticipated in I)}' males and females, was the most popular. In their mourning customs the Hawaiians showed their wildest nature, often resorting to the most extravagant performances, excus- ing all by saying that grief had so unseated their reason as to make tliem not responsible. The masses Inuied their dead in caves, but the bones of the kings were dis- posed of with the utmost care. There were royal burial-places at Hon- aunau, and on Maui at lao valley; but not always did the remains of the kings receive sepulture at those places. On account of the fear that some one would make fish-hooks or other instruments out of them, for the charm they were supposed to give, all sorts of expedients were re- sorted to by faithful friends to conceal the bones. The year was divided into twelve months of thirty days each. The days were named instead of being numbered. As their division gave but VIEW NEAR HILO. 34 THE FAR EAST. three hundred and sixty days to the year, they consecrated to Lone, the god of the elements, the balance, so as to complete the sidereal year regu- lated by the Pleiades. The new year began with the winter solstice. They had the lunar montli l)y which they regulated their feasts. The seasons were two, wet and dry. In counting they calculated by four and its multiples. They had no written language, and their oral speech contained the 'AI.M GROVE. sounds of but twelve letters, five vowels and seven consonants, as follows : a, e, i, o, u, and h, k, 1, m, n, p, w. To these r, t, and b are sometimes added by writers, but tlie r takes the sound of 1, the t of k, and b of p. A is pronounced usually as in father ; e as in they ; i as in marine ; o as in mole ; u as in mute. W usually has the sound of v. The only excep- tion to these rules is when the vowel has the long or short sound. Every syllable and every word in the language ends with a vowel, and two con- sonants never come together. The penultimate, or next to last syllable of a word, almost invariably receives the accent. The plural takes the prefix HAWAII. 35 of na. lu Hawaiian conversation words fall from the tongue with the musical rhythm of a brook glidhig over a pebbly bottom, a consonant thrown in now and then as rocks are found in the stream, not to check the current, but to break the monotony of its flow. In order to maintain the distinction between the classes, the nobihty had a language of its own, which was not understood by the common people. This was changed from time to time that it might not be learned by any one outside of the favoured circle. If barbarians, the Hawaiians were never cannibals. They sacrificed their prisoners of war on the altars of their gods that they might gain further victories under arras, and bathed those same graven images in the blood of their kindred to appease the imaginary wrath of their over-nilers. In this respect they did not differ from the ancient Gauls and Saxons, whose temples were crimsoned with the blood of human beings, while a father of Israel sharpened his knife to slay his son that his body might be made an offering to the offended God of Abraham. ^larriage was forbidden only between mother and son, and yet the kingly line boasted of the finest specimens of manhood and womanhood. The peojile were in physical bondage to the king and in mental slavery to the priesthood, and yet they were a merry, easy-going, brave, and unselfish race of men and women. Their kings were ever at war, and yet no fear of a foreign invasion reached their hearts. Surrounded by the eight Hawaiian seas they were a little world by themselves, their lives filled with deeds of knightly chivalry, incidents of love and romantic devotion unto death, and examples of unfaltering patriotism and self-sacrifice. If an impassable gulf frowned between the rulers and their subjects, each party went its way careless and contented. Following the second period of invasion the Hawaiians enjoyed a long spell of peace and isolation, six hundred years of non-intercourse with the outside world, when in 1778 Captain Cook led the way for further conquest, such as ancient history had not told. CHAPTER IV. THE XAPOLEON OF THE PACIFIC. PILI'S lineal descendant Kalaniopuu was king of Hawaii at the time of Captain Cook's visit. He also held sway over part of Maui. Kahekili, ''the Thunderer," a brother to the wife of Kalani- opuu, was moi of the greater part of Maui. His cousin, Kahahana, was king of Oahiu, Molokai, and Lanai. Kauai and Kiiliau were ruled by a queen related to the royal familj- of Hawaii, and whose husband was a younger brother to the kins of Maui. It will thus be seen that the rulers of the different islands were conuected by ties of blood, thougii little love was lost on this account, when the frequent wars brought the bitterness of strife. At that time Kahekili was arming to overpower Kahahana of Oahu, expecting to be assisted by Kauai's queen. CaptaihCook found Kalaniopuu away fighting this same Thunderer, to avenge the death of his eight hundred nobles, the flower of his army, who Ijad been hewn down like playthings at Hana the yfar before by Kahekili's doughty warriors. 36 STATUE OF I