A ism J* i i L/ E. TOWERS. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD BY E. TOWERS. LONDON: WALTER SCOTT, 24 WARWICK LANE, PATERNOSTER ROW. PREFACE. THE following pages contain the simple record of a tour round the world which the writer made for health's sake. The story he tells was originally written in popular lecture form; and, with very few alterations, it now appears as it was delivered before friendly audiences in Tynemouth and Newcastle-upon-Tyne. This will explain the style adopted in its preparation ; and if apology be needed for its publication in a more permanent shape, the author can only say that he has allowed himself to be persuaded by generous personal friends, who assure him that others besides themselves will be interested in its perusal. May they be true prophets ! The writer makes no pretensions to literary merit. All that he claims for his unpretending little book is that it faithfully describes, in a plain and homely fashion, his observations, impressions, and experiences while voyaging round the world, and during his brief sojourn in the " Land of Sunshine and Gold." Should the work fall into the hands of Australian 1 629264 iv PREFACE. friends, they will, doubtless, find in it statements and conclusions to which they, with their fuller know- ledge, may take exception. This the author is pre- pared for, and can but say in self-defence that he has honestly stated facts as they presented themselves to his observation. With many misgivings, he sends forth this simple narrative of his trip ; yet not without the hope that those who honour him by reading it may be led to take a still deeper interest in the great Colony of Australia, and in its loyal and hospitable people. E. T. TYXEMOUTH, 1890. CONTENTS. PAGE PLYMOUTH 3 SANTA CRUZ 5 ENTERTAINMENTS ON BOARD SHIP 8 SUNDAY SERVICES 13 BOAT DRILL 14 RECONCILEMENT TO THE SEA 15 FLYING FISH, ETC 16 SUNSETS AT SEA 17 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE .17 INDIAN OCEAN 18 CROZET ISLANDS 19 STORMS WEATHER ......... 20 SEA BIRDS 21 TASMANIA 22 HOBART TO MELBOURNE ........ 25 A TERRIBLE EXPERIENCE .26 THE WORK OF THE SEA 28 MELBOURNE 29 ENTERPRISE OF VICTORIANS 32 COLONIAL POLITICS ......... 33 CLIMATE 35 SCENERY 36 VICTORIA A DESIRABLE COLONY FOR THE WORKING CLASSES . 38 HIGHEST OFFICES OPEN TO ALL . . . ... .40 COLONIAL HOSPITALITY ........ 41 LOVE FOR ENGLAND .44 BALLARAT 46 A VISIT TO A GOLD MINE 49 BALLARAT BOTANICAL GARDENS 50 A FLORAL MARVEL 53 PROGRESS OF ART AND SCIENCE ...... 54 FAREWELL TO VICTORIA 55 MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY 55 SOCIAL PROGRESS 57 A RAILWAY ANOMALY . 58 THE RABBIT PEST ,60 vi CONTENTS. PAGE COLONIAL RAILWAYS ^ SYDNEY * * * * ww THE BOTANICAL GARDENS OF SYDNEY 68 SYDNEY HARBOUR 9 LIFE IN SYDNEY ' ' 90 THE UNEMPLOYED OF SYDNEY '* THE RESOURCES OF NEW SOUTH WALES 74 THE SUBURBS OF SYDNEY 74 SINGING FROGS ' SNAKES IN THE BUSH <' THE BLUE MOUNTAINS . . 78 THE "YELLOW AGONY'' SCARCITY OF SERVANTS 83 Gl T..MAN AND AMERICAN ENTERPRISE HEARTS AND HOMES 86 SYDNEY TO NEW ZEALAND 87 A PATHWAY OF LIGHT 88 WELLINGTON 88 A VOICE FROM HOME 89 THE HAWTHORN .... .... 89 OLD SCOTLAND 90 CHRISTCHURCH 91 THE FROZEN MEAT TRADE 92 A NOVEL MODE OF TRANSIT 93 NAPIER (NEW ZEALAND) 94 OLD ENGLAND OVER AGAIN 95 HOMEWARD BOUND 96 ICEBERGS 97 Rio BAY AND CITY 100 A LOVELY FLORAL SCENE .... 102 A STARTLING BILL OF COSTS 103 Rio MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 104 "THE ANCHOR'S WEIGHED" lo5 a SHIPS . 106 A CAPTAIN'S YARNS 106 THE PEAK OF TENERIFFE IN EARLY SUNLIGHT . . .108 AN UNPLEASANT EXPERIENCE 108 STEAMING FOR HOME .... ... 110 CHRISTMAS AT OUR OWN FIRESIDE . . Ill LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE A VICTORIAN HOME Frontispiece SILVER FALLS, FERN TREE GULLY, TASMANIA ... 24 HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, MELBOURNE 30 PUBLIC LIBRARY, MELBOURNE 32 GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MELBOURNE (BOTANIC GARDENS) . . 36 TOWN HALL, MELBOURNE 42 BOTANIC GARDENS, BALLARAT 50 HEAD OF LAKE, BALLARAT GARDENS . . 52 THE FEDERAL COFFEE PALACE, MELBOURNE .... 58 TOWN HALL, SYDNEY 66 BOTANIC GARDENS, SYDNEY 68 MIDDLE HARBOUR, SYDNEY 70 HARBOUR AND DARLING POINT, SYDNEY . . 72 ZIG-ZAG RAILWAY, BLUE MOUNTAINS, N.3.W. . . . 78 THREE CASCADES, KATOMBA, N.S.W 80 THE SS. "DORIC" 90 VICTORIA BRIDGE, CHRISTCHURCH, NEW ZEALAND . . 92 yiii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. W The following additional illustrations, not alluded to in the text, of Australasian Scenes and Buildings will be found at the end of the book : GENERAL POST OFFICE, MELBOURNE. NEW LAW COURTS, MELBOURNE. FERNSHAW SCENERY, VICTORIA. ON SOUTH YARRA, VICTORIA. DIANA, FITZROY GARDENS, MELBOURNE. A SCENE IN FERN-TREE GULLY, VICTORIA. THE GIANT THEE OF VICTORIA (Eucalyptus Amygdalina). SANDHURST. PUBLIC GARDENS, SANDHURST. WEEPING ROCK, WENTWORTH FALLS, BLUE MOUNTAINS, N.S.W. GOVETT'S CASCADE, BLACKHEATH. KAWARAU RIVER, WAKATIPU, NEW ZEALAND. OTIRA GORGE, NEW ZEALAND. SHOTOVER RIVER, WAKATIPU, NEW ZEALAND. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. ' ' Let Australasia rise with flag unfurled, The New Britannia of the Southern World." IN the month of July, 1886, my medical adviser re- commended me to take a long sea-voyage ; and his recommendation being supported and emphasised by a professor whom I consulted in Edinburgh, I was ordered not only off, but to be " off at once." But I did not want to go to sea. I never liked it. I protested, " Can't I go to the Highlands of Scotland for two or three months ? " " No." " Can't I go to Norway or Switzerland ? " " No," was the peremptory reply, "you cannot. If you go to any of these places you will return in a month if you feel stronger," (and that is just what I should have done). "No, you must go a long sea-voyage, where neither letters nor telegrams can reach you. You must go a voyage to Australia and ' loaf,' and stay away six months," was the command of my own doctor ; " twelve months," said the professor. Thus it was decided that I should take a sea- voyage, 1 2 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. which I did not want to, and go in for a course of " loafing." But I was not to go by way of the Red Sea because of the heat, which my medical friend said would be too much for me. " Go by the Cape route," he said ; " it will suit you much better." Accordingly, I engaged passage for myself and wife by the Shaw Saville and Albion Company's R.M.S. Coptic (4,448 tons register, engines 3,000 H.R, Com- mander W. H. KIDLEY), which was advertised to leave the Thames on the 15th of July, via the Cape of Good Hope, for the Australasian Colonies. Our berths were secured for us by Messrs. JAMES POTTS & SON by telegram on the Friday, and on the following Wednesday morning we had to be on board. Our preparations for the voyage were, therefore, necessarily hurried and few. We cleared the docks about noon of the same day, and were soon fairly on our way to make the long voyage of 13,000 miles. The run down the Channel was somewhat tame. The weather was dull. A mist hung round us which shut out the land from sight, and there was a nasty choppy sea. One by one passengers began to disappear. With- out saying " By your leave," or offering a word of explanation, they quietly sought their state-rooms, and some of them I saw no more until the ship lay at anchor in Plymouth Sound. Sea-sickness, that scourge of voyagers by sea, had overtaken them, and amongst those afflicted by the painful malady no one suffered more severely than my poor wife. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 3 PLYMOUTH. At Plymouth we embarked a large number of passengers, who joined the ship there in order to escape the run down the Channel, which is oftentimes unpleasant. Among these passengers were several colonials who had been visiting the Colonial Exhibi- tion in London, and from the new-comers I after- wards gleaned much useful information respecting the colonies. While I was watching the transfer of luggage from the tender to the Coptic, I was accosted by a stranger, who politely asked if my name were Mr. TOWERS. I admitted that I had the honour, or other- wise, of bearing that name. But what could the man want ? Was he going to arrest me as a suspected dynamitard ? My fears were soon allayed, if I ever had any. Producing a formidable parchment docu- ment, he said my signature was required thereto. He was the representative of a well-known firm of New- castle solicitors ; and I thought within myself, perhaps lawyers are, after all, a maligned race, for there is evidence here of " promptitude and despatch," and for once the popular idea of legal delay must be reversed. We left Plymouth with a strong wind ahead, which was not unfavourable for steaming. Eddy- stone Lighthouse was soon sighted and passed ; and before long we were sailing on the broad bosom of the Atlantic. We crossed the Bay of Biscay in fairly good weather; but there was a heavy rolling sea, which caused the Coptic to pitch a good deal, and the bilious 4 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. ones on board were soon in trouble. I pitied those un- fortunates from the bottom of my heart ; and as I was never sick myself, I tried to relieve and cheer them. As a rule, however, sea-sick people, if they are very bad, resent your well-meant endeavours to help them. All that they want is to be let alone and allowed to die quietly. But as the sickness wears oft', they begin to change their minds and think they may as well live. On the morning of the 19th of July we sighted Cape Finisterre, the lighthouse, perched on the headland, forming a prominent object in the view. By this time we had become acquainted with our fellow-passengers in the first saloon. There were some very nice people amongst them, and I believe they all tried their best to be agreeable during the long voyage, with a solitary and trivial exception, which need not be particularised. We had also become better acquainted with the captain and other officers. Our captain was a splendid fellow a bit of a swell, but every inch a sailor a man, I should think, of resource in times of difficulty and danger. He was also genial, pleasant in manners, and a true gentleman. The captain and officers of these mail steamers are all picked men. The master must be a gentleman as well as a skilled navigator, and the officers under him are selected with unusual care. Our captain and all the officers, save one, were total abstainers a most desirable state of things, all will agree, where the safety of human lives and valuable property depends so largely upon the coolness and intrepidity of those in command in the hour of peril. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 5 SANTA CRUZ. On the morning of the 22nd of July, we called at Santa Cruz, the principal town in the Island of Teneriffe, to take in coal to replace that burnt on the voyage from England. Most of the passengers took the opportunity of going ashore for the few hours during which the vessel lay at anchor in the roadstead. The day was charming, and having had seven days on the sea, we thoroughly enjoyed our brief visit to Santa Cruz. The town, being entirely different from anything I had seen before, interested me very much. The streets, with the exception of the Grand Placa, are narrow and paved with cobble stones, rendering walk- ing somewhat painful. The houses are mostly flat- roofed, not much to look at from the outside, but cool and, I was told, pleasant inside. As a few of us were wandering aimlessly about, I observed a young fellow in front of us, six feet high or more, with broad shoulders, and he had such a "monarch -of -all-I-survey" look about him, that I felt certain he was an Englishman. Going up to him, I said, " Excuse me, sir, but are not you an English- man ? " " I am, sir," he answered. " Then," said I, " we have a claim upon you we are English. Will you show us round ? " " Certainly," he replied ; " delighted to do so." We were friends at once, and, under his guidance, we were taken to see such sights as Santa Cruz has to offer to strangers. We visited the principal church (Roman Catholic, of course), the inside of which I thought looked very tawdry with its 1* 6 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. gilt and paint. Amongst other things in the build- ing, we were shown a locked case with glass front, containing some very ancient-looking flags, which, we were told, had been taken from Lord NELSON in a naval engagement off Santa Cruz. I had my doubts as to the truth of this story. But I implicitly believed (most inconsistently on my part, I admit) the following story in relation to these flags : Some British middies belonging to a man-of-war which lay at anchor in the roadstead, being allowed to go on shore, chanced to stroll into this church ; and seeing the colours hanging up in the church a most im- proper place for them, in their opinion they, with characteristic British daring, climbed up, took down the flairs, and carried them off to their own vessel, O ' which they, doubtless, conceived to be a much more fitting receptacle for them than a Roman Catholic church in a Spanish town. When the loss of the banners was discovered, there was a great hubbub; and representations having been made to the proper quarter, they were returned, and are now enclosed in a locked case to prevent their removal by either middy or any other objecting party. We also inspected the Fruit Market, and were at once surrounded by a number of women who wanted us to buy ; but alas for our preconceived notions of beautiful Spanish women visions of loveliness which had haunted us from boyhood these daughters of EVE were ugly, and dirty, and troublesome ! They shouted and clamoured, and, with hands innocent of soap and water, they signed for us to buy. We each purchased a basket for sixpence, filled it with grapes, THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 7 peaches, plums, and bananas for one and sixpence, and then left, feeling sad and disappointed. For had not our interview with these ladies cruelly dissipated all our long- cherished ideas of the grace and beauty of Spanish women ; and to find the reality so different ! Oh ! it was disappointing. Ah, well ! I suppose we were stupid and unreasonable. We would not look for the finest specimens of English female beauty in our own vegetable markets ; and we ought not to have expected to find examples of Spanish loveliness in the market we visited. We shall be wiser in future. Still under the guidance of our English friend, we visited the public gardens and other places of interest, and then wended our way back to the boat-landing, followed by a crowd of mendicants, who importuned us for money in the most pertinacious manner. When we got back to the Coptic, coaling was still going on ; and what a row the Spanish coal-trimmers made ! They gesticulated, and shouted, and yelled, and I am afraid they swore ; but not understanding their language, we suffered no harm. Englishmen would have done the work in half the time, and with- out a tithe of the fuss those men made ! Towards the evening of the 22nd of July, we sailed from Teneriffe, and on the 24th we entered the Tropics, a large shoal of porpoises accompanying us. These fish are very amusing. They gambol about the ship, rolling over and over in an unwieldy and ludicrous sort of way ; and after keeping the ship company for a considerable distance, they suddenly sheer off, leaping one after the other, and looking not altogether unlike a string of school-boys playing leap-frog. 8 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. ENTERTAINMENTS ON BOARD SHIP. It is time I said something about our life on board ship. First let me say that the Coptic was a good sea boat, well found, and well manned. Her saloons and state-rooms were fitted up with a due regard to com- fort and even luxury. The vessel was lighted throughout with the SWAN and EDISON Incandescent Electric Lamps ; and as the engines that worked the refrigerator, which was always kept going, also supplied the motive power to the dynamos, we had the electric light all night in our state-rooms, which was a great advantage. Every part of the ship was kept scrupulously clean, and the comfort of the passengers generally was well looked after. Each day was very much alike, as far as its general routine was concerned. We breakfasted at half-past eight o'clock, lunched at one, and dined at six o'clock ; and between meals we amused ourselves according to our individual tastes and inclinations. Some went to their reading, some played quoits, some walked the deck, some played cards, nearly all smoked (that is, the male specimens of humanity on board), while others again waylaid the unfortunate officers and propounded to them questions upon everything concerning the sea, its inhabitants, and the ships which sail thereon. The officers on board these liners need to be a {rood- o natured and long-suffering race. We had, of course, our special amusements, which shall be noticed presently; and here let me say to those who may be thinking of making a sea-passage, " Go first-class if you can possibly afford it." The increased comfort THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 9 and other advantages you secure by going lirst-class cannot be measured by the extra money you pay. You get the best of food, served in the best style ; you have the benefit of all the entertainments ; you have the run of the ship, and enjoy many other privileges which are not accorded to second-saloon passengers. The special entertainments which were given during the voyage were really excellent, and the master of ceremonies on all those occasions was our versatile and highly-gifted purser, Mr. E-AE. He had organising abilities of a superior order. He was witty and ready never to be taken by surprise. He could perform all sorts of tricks, was an adept at all kinds of indoor games, and he played the tin whistle like a professional. Such a man, especially if he hold a position of some authority, is invaluable on board ship during a long voyage. The entertainments themselves were of a varied character, comprising concerts of vocal and instru- mental music, charades, amateur theatricals, etc. Perhaps a brief description of some of them may not be uninteresting ; at any rate, it will give an idea of the way in which we beguiled the tediousness of the long voyage. We had music and very excellent music every night ; but the first great effort made in the way of amusement was an exhibition of living wax-works, or tableaux vivants, given by the purser and a few of the passengers. During the afternoon the exhibition was advertised by a sandwich-man, a smart young fellow, the son of a Wesleyan minister, going all round the ship with the boards suspended round his neck. io THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. He was well got up, face blacked, and dressed to suit. The notice on the boards intimated that " The Living Wax-Works from the Cape of Good Hope" would appear that evening. But the ubiquitous policeman, dressed in blue, and with stern black face, appeared upon the scene, and, with a great show of authority, ordered the poor sandwich man to " move on." He harassed him dreadfully. He would allow no loitering to interfere with the comfort of Her Majesty's subjects. The exhibition was shown in the dining saloon. The make-up of each figure was splendid, the accom- panying music was appropriate, and the purser proved a first-rate showman. His witty references to the figures as they appeared added considerably to the interest of the proceedings. At the conclusion of the performance, the gratified audience insisted upon the showman and his call-boy (the sandwich-man of the afternoon) coming in front of the curtain, when they received the hearty plaudits of the company. On this and all similar occasions the saloon was decorated with the ship's flags, and it is wonderful what a fine effect can be produced with flags artistically arranged. Generally also at such times artistic programmes, designed and executed by one of the stewards, were sold to the company, and the money thus obtained was laid aside to be handed over, on the return of the vessel to England, to the Liverpool Seamen's Orphan Institution. On another occasion we had a series of athletic sports, extending over two days, and these were con- ducted with the usual excitement ; for, say what you like, an Englishman dearly loves sport of some kind. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 11 We had potato races, chalk-ring, tilting, running, leaping, walking, and obstacle races, etc., and even the ladies took part in such contests as became them. The obstacle race is worth describing. The com- petitors had first to make their way through a gate- way made with ropes which were crossed and re-crossed, then through life-buoys suspended from the awning bars, and hanging about two feet from the deck floor, through flour barrels with plenty of flour left in, over high barricades of timber, and then most difficult of all they had to creep through a windsail a canvas tube about 15 inches in diameter, and about 12 yards long. Two youths, one just from Harrow School, and the other from a school in Harrogate, carried off' the bulk of the prizes. We had a grand tug-of-war colonials versus representatives of the old country. This was an exciting contest. For long the issue was doubtful, but at last weight told its tale, and victory lay with the colonials. Then loud cheers, again and again repeated, went up from every colonial throat, until the very fish in the sea must have wondered what the noise was about. Had the colonials won a real battle, they could scarcely have been more elated than they were over their peaceful victory. But, perhaps, the most interesting as they certainly were the most amusing were the Christy Minstrel entertainments. They were capital. The purser had his troupe, and the stewards formed another troupe of minstrels. Dresses, songs, conundrums every- thing was good. Well I remember an old lady at one of these entertainments a lady over whose face 12 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. a smile, I daresay, had never broken from the time of her going on board laughing so immoderately that I was afraid she would take a fit. However, she held up, and I truly believe that laugh was the best medicine she had had during the voyage. To prolong the description of these details would be a mistake, but before finally leaving them I venture to make a brief reference to the first ball which was held. I do so to show how cleverly matters are managed on board these mail steamers. The young ladies having obtained the consent of the captain, notice was given that a ball would be held on the promenade-deck in the evening, to which the second saloon passengers were invited. We went to dinner at six, and when we came on deck at seven o'clock a transformation scene awaited us. While we dined the ollkvrs and men had been busy. From the awning overhead canvas had been brought down, enclosing the sides and the ends of the deck. The canvas, in turn, had been hidden with flags, and the result ^vas a cosy ball-room, presenting at once a naval and picturesque appearance. The electrical engineer had also fitted up a dozen lights or more, which illu- minated the place most brilliantly, making a fairy scene of our promenade-deck. There was no lack of good music. A young lady, who was going out to New Zealand to be married, played the piano. A Mr. BOSS, who was the advance-agent of the Minnie Palmer Company, played the violin, and our versatile purser played the flute. While I was standing looking entered into conversation with a maiden lady horn tho second saloon. She was unusually tall, THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 13 unusually angular, and of uncertain age. She told me that the last time she had danced was with the Prince of Wales in Canada ! Involuntarily the ejaculation, "Really!" escaped my lips; and then as politely as possible I diverted the conversation into another channel. These entertainments, which I have briefly de- scribed, are but examples of many which were got up during the passage, and will help you to understand how the tediousness of a long voyage is lessened, if not altogether overcome. SUNDAY SERVICES. It may be interesting to hear how we spent our Sundays on board the Coptic. Divine service was held every Sunday morning in the dining saloon, to which ALL the passengers were invited. The church bell was rung for a quarter of an hour before the service; and unless the sea was very rough, making it necessary for some of the passengers to keep their berths, our congregations were, as a rule, very good. The officers attended in full uniform, and the reading-desk was reverently covered with the Union Jack. The purser read the prayers according to the Church of England service, and the captain read the appointed lessons for the day. Both being excellent elocutionists, the services were always enjoyable. Indeed, I make bold to say that one might enter twenty churches at home and in nineteen of them 2 14 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. one would not hear the prayers read with so much devotional feeling and good taste as they were on board the Coptic. Music was not wanting to lend its aid in begetting a reverential spirit. A few of us had formed ourselves into a choir, and by dint of hard practice we became fairly proficient. The singing of such a hymn as " Almighty Father, hear our cry, As o'er the trackless deep we roam," to the grand old tune, " Buckingham," was not without its influence on the worshippers ; and as the sound of the voices died away across the wild waste of waters, the reins of the imagination were loosened, and some of us at least heard far-away voices singing in supplication on our behalf " hear us when we cry to Thee For those in peril on the sea." At the close of each service a collection was taken for the Liverpool Seamen's Orphan Institution, which totalled a respectable sum before the end of the voyage. BOAT DRILL. Every Sunday, immediately after service, the whole of the officers, sailors, stewards, and, in fact, every available man belonging to the ship's crew, were assembled on deck for boat drill. Each man was required to take his appointed place just as if the boats were about to be launched. These exercises were never omitted, and were intended to discipline the men and accustom them to their respective duties. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 15 I thought the idea an excellent one. The men were so carefully drilled that they would, in the event of their actual services being required, have taken their places promptly, and without confusion, from the mere force of habit. On all the boats I was on board while I was away, I noticed that lists of the men, with their respective duties, were hung up in conspicuous places, but on none of them was the drill gone through with such system and thoroughness as on the Coptic. RECONCILEMENT TO THE SEA. While the matters which I have attempted to describe were passing, our good ship had been plough- ing her way through the Atlantic seas at a steady rate of from twelve to thirteen knots an hour. I began the voyage with a prejudice against the sea ; but I soon got to like it very much. The heaving billows, the exhilarating breezes, the glowing sunshine, the glorious deep blue of the waters, and the apparently limitless expanse of sea and sky, were to me inspiring forces. I revelled in the freedom of " A life on the ocean wave, A home on the rolling deep. " Ah! that was a delightful sail from Teneriffe to the Cape of Good Hope. The grand old ocean, sparkling in the sunshine, as fresh and new as when it came from the Creator's hands, was a picture of beauty and grandeur which, once seen, could never be forgotten. And then the air was so soft and pure, wooing to rest 16 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. the overtaxed nervous forces, and causing corroding cares and anxieties to vanish as the morning mist before the sun. You sufferers from mental worry and overwork, try a run down the Atlantic, and see what it will do for you. Take my word for it, it will give you new life, and you will be gainers not only in health, but, in the long run, in time and money as well. FLYING FISH, ETC. As we sailed across the Tropical seas we saw immense numbers of flying fish. I watched them with a very keen interest. At first I was inclined to think that they left their native element for the pleasure of the thing quite as much as for the purpose of escaping from their enemies. Further observation, however, convinced me that they rose from the water because they were alarmed by the approaching steamer. They all darted from the ship, and none, so far as I noticed, towards it. I was surprised at the distance some of them flew before returning to the water. Most dropped into the sea before they had gone far, but some of them, which I carefully watched, continued flying until I could no longer with the eye follow them. On certain days whole flights of them were continually leaving the water, and very beautiful they looked, with their silvery white under- parts and dark olive sides, and backs gleaming in the sunshine. They do not rise much into the air, but simply skim along the surface of the water. Large shoals of porpoises paid us frequent visits, THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 17 and their funny ways were always provocative of amusement. Whales also showed themselves at least we saw them blowing or spouting, and they often did so close to the ship. Perhaps they were curious, and wanted to know what sort of leviathan the Coptic was. SUNSETS AT SEA. Frequently we were favoured with gorgeous sun- sets. How glorious these sunsets were ! In looking over my note-book, I find many references to them. In one place I write " To-night the sun went down in a blaze of gold. We stood watching it as it dipped into the ocean, and after it had disappeared we still watched the sea of golden light it left behind. The whole western sky was a sea of gold, studded with masses of brilliant clouds, some purple, some crimson ; and as it lay stretched out before us it looked like another and fairer world the larger clouds were continents, the smaller, islands; and to an imaginative mind it would have been an easy matter to people them with beings of a higher order than ourselves." It is at sea where sunsets are seen to perfection, and one at least of the Coptic passengers never failed to watch them with an ever deepening delight. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. On August 7th, at seven o'clock in the evening, we reached the Cape, and anchored in Table Bay. I had been specially anxious to go on shore here, as I wished to look up some friends ; and great was my 1 8 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. disappointment when I found our orders were to resume the sail in a few hours. Short as was the time we lay at anchor, a nonde- script sort of company came from the town to sell ostrich feathers and eggs, bead-work, etc., and a very fair stroke of business they did amongst the pas- sengers. It is surprising the desire one has to spend money when the opportunity offers after having been debarred from the pleasure for a time. Purchases were made, in many cases, apparently for no other reason than the love of spending. I can now under- stand why our sailors squander their money so freely and often foolishly when on shore. The desire to spend, and the freedom from restraint, constitute a temptation which few of them can withstand. Poor fellows, their lot is a hard one, and it would ill become us to judge them harshly. Newspaper correspondents also visited us. One of them proved to be a Carlisle man, and he and I fore- gathered at once. I gave him all the newspapers I had brought with me (and they were not a few), which he said would be a rich source of news for his paper. Scissors and paste evidently played no mean part in the editorial sanctum. INDIAN OCEAN. A little before midnight we weighed anchor and resumed our voyage. As soon as we rounded the Cape we encountered rough weather, and, with only a few bright days at intervals, we had stormy weather right across the Indian Ocean to Tasmania. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 19 There is much I should like to say on this part of the voyage, but having already occupied so much time in describing our ship-life between England and the Cape, I must put on seven-leagued boots and hurry across the 6,000 miles of water which lie between the Cape and Hobart Town. A few brief references to preserve the continuity of my story are, therefore, all that I shall make respecting this part of the voyage. CROZET ISLANDS. On the 13th of August we passed within measurable distance of the Crozet Islands, an assemblage of barren rocks inhabited only by sea birds and sea animals. I mention these islands because of the following story which the captain told us with regard to them : " A few years ago a ship was wrecked here, and five of the shipwrecked (one of them being a woman) managed to reach one of the islands, where they lived for two years, sustaining themselves on shell-fish and the eggs of sea birds until they were rescued by a passing ship. Since then the English Government has maintained a ship to take, at stated times, supplies of salted and tinned foods, and leave them on one of the islands. It is also the duty of the officers in command to cause search to be made among the islands in case of any shipwrecked persons harbouring there." Somewhat singularly bearing on the captain's story, I read in a newspaper, a few months after my return home, an account of a dead albatross having been 2O THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. found on the shore at Freemantle, in Western Australia, with a paper or parchment tied to it, stating that a number of French sailors had been wrecked on the Crozet Islands, and were sheltering there. The account went on to say that a ship was being fitted out to proceed to their rescue. A little later, a paragraph appeared in the Daily Telegraph, to this effect: "The passage of Her Majesty's ship Thalia to Australia will be marked by one incident, at all events, of unusual interest. Her instructions are to call at the Crozet Islands in search of the ship- wrecked crew of a French vessel which is supposed to have been wrecked on one of the group. The devia- tion of the Thalia in her course for these islands from the Cape of Good Hope will not be considerable, and her detention amongst those little rocks is not likely to be long. It is quite fitting that acts of humanity of this nature should be attempted or done under St. George's Cross." STORMY WEATHER. If our experience of the Indian Ocean was an ordinary one, it is a stormy sea. Regarding this part of the voyage, I find my note-book containing many entries like the following: "A tremendous sea run- ning to-day. The main top-gallant sail torn to shreds. One of the young ladies has had a nasty fall in the dining saloon, and another has been pitched off a sofa and thrown to the other side of the saloon, receivino- a ; o black eye and a damaged nose and forehead in transit. Our captain, who is always cheerful, admits that it is THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 21 blowing a moderate gale, but adds significantly, ' It is a very bad sea.' " We suffered the usual discomforts from the rough weather, but no serious casualties occurred ; and but for the sleeplessness which troubled me, in consequence of the noise produced by the shrieking winds and the swish of the waves, as they dashed against the side of the ship, I did not so much mind the commotion. And in the daytime there was a fascination in watch- ing, while holding on to rope or rail, the majesty of the troubled sea. Ah ! what magnificent waves. They came rolling along with an inexpressible gran- deur, lifting up our ship as a very little thing, and then rolling away to break on some shore thousands of miles away. SEA BIRDS. Besides the stormy character of the weather, the voyage across the Indian Ocean was, in many respects, less interesting than the sail down the Atlantic. During the three weeks we were in crossing, we never sighted a ship. We saw no flying fish, no porpoises came alongside and amused us with their gambols ; and the whales, if there were any, kept away from us. The sea birds, however, kept us company all the way. Many an hour I passed in watching them. There were molly-hawks, Cape hens, Cape pigeons, albatrosses, and many others whose names I could not learn. The power of flight possessed by the albatross is marvellous. He sails in the air it can scarcely be called flying, as rarely any flapping of the wings is seen. Once out of the water and he is slow in rising 22 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. he spreads out his great wings and allows the wind to act on them as the wind acts on the sails of a ship, and he simply floats in space, moving easily in any direction without apparent effort. I fancy the albatross must enjoy life immensely. I often asked myself the question, " Where do these birds rest at night ? " On putting the question to some of the officers, I was told that they flew to land every night. But I soon rejected that theory as untenable. The birds followed the vessel until dusk; and as we were hundreds of miles from any known island or islet, it was quite clear the land theory would not hold water. I formed the opinion and I shall abide by it until I receive a better that the birds rested on the water at night, at daybreak taking up the chase again ; and with their keen sight and wonderful power of flight, it was an easy matter for them to overtake the ship. TASMANIA. On the 27th of August the forty-fourth day of our voyage out we sighted the mountains of Tasmania, nearly a hundred miles distant; and the following morning, just as the day was breaking, we anchored in the beautiful and commodious Bay of Hobart. As the morning light increased, the beauty of the land we had reached was gradually revealed to us. On every side the bay was environed with hills, many of them of considerable altitude, and nearly all wooded to their summits. At the back of the city stood Mount Well- ingtona noble mountain upwards of 4,000 feet high, THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 23 wearing a crown of pure white snow; and nestling at its feet lay the city itself, which slowly came into view, as the warm rays of the morning sun dispelled the soft mantle of haze resting upon it. To get on shore as quickly as possible to view this new land became at once the engrossing desire, and immediately after breakfast we bade adieu to the Coptic, whose destination was New Zealand. Not without real feelings of regret did we leave her, for the good ship had been our home for six weeks, and on the whole our life on board had passed pleasantly. After going through the usual formalities at the landing wharf, our luggage was passed, and we were at liberty to go where we pleased. First we secured rooms, and, like sensible people, ordered a good dinner, and then went for a two hours' drive. During the course of that drive we saw something of the beauty and amazing fertility of Van Diemen'sLand, now known as Tasmania. Although it was still the winter season, vegetation was well advanced. The peach trees were masses of lovely pink blossom ; the geranium hedges, four feet and in some places even six feet high, were blossoming freely ; the furze bushes were ablaze with golden bloom ; while the English trees, which thrive vigorously out there, were putting forth their young leaves, and gave promise of an abundant foliage. We stayed two days and a half in Hobart City (the inhabitants now object to its being called Hobart Toiun, because of the association of that name with the old convict days) and the favourable impression I had received of the country on our first drive was deepened as I saw more of it. Tasmania is, indeed, a 24 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. veritable paradise. The following words, which a writer- uses in describing one of the islands in the Pacific, are most applicable to Tasmania, and portray it better than any words of mine could do. He says " Nature has lavished upon it her rarest gifts : deep shadowy groves, valleys musical with murmuring streams, lofty mountains rising into the sapphire heaven out of a girdle of eternal foliage, a bright fresh air redolent of fragrance, and a sea dimpling in cloudless sunshine." This fitly describes Tasmania ; and yet that fair land was, not so many years ago, a huge convict settlement, and the scene of deeds of violence so brutal, of crimes so horrible, that the bare thought of them makes one shudder with horror. I am persuaded that Tasmania will grow into pro- minence in the near future. It is rich in minerals, and possesses a soil of such exceeding fertility that the difficulty is to keep vegetable life within moderate limits and dimensions. As a fruit-growing country, it can scarcely be equalled. What the country needs is a convenient market for its products. Melbourne, from its geographical position, is the natural market for Tasmanian produce ; but Victoria is a protective colony, and imposes heavy duties on all imports from her smaller neighbour, thus crippling the in- dustries of Tasmania and injuring herself at the same time. In my humble judgment, the two colonies would greatly benefit by amalgamation. Tasmania is too small to be burdened with the expenses of a separate government. One governing body, sitting at Mel- bourne, could control and manage both colonies. By THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 25 such an arrangement each colony would be the gainer expenses would be lessened, restrictive and mis- chievous tariffs would be abolished, and Tasmania would be at liberty to pour her rich treasures of fruit, vegetables, etc., into Melbourne, to the great benefit of both colonies. HOBART TO MELBOURNE. The 30th of August found us on board the Southern Cross, one of the regular line of steamers plying between Hobart and Melbourne. As we steamed away from the wharf, we had a favourable opportunity of viewing the lovely situation of Hobart. The site is incomparably fine, with its noble bay and mountains. The bay is acknowledged to be one of the finest in the world, and is large enough to accommodate all the navies afloat, and still have plenty of room to spare. A gentleman on board, who had travelled much, and with whom I had entered into conversation, gave it as his opinion that Hobart Bay, with its surround- ing scenery, was unequalled anywhere in the world. That was a bold statement to make, but it was one I w r as not unwilling to accept, for certainly such charming scenery would be difficult to rival. The next day was so bright and beautiful, and we had such lovely views of the Tasmanian coast-line as we proceeded on the voyage, hugging the shore close enough to see its beautiful scenery, that I congratu- lated myself on the superior wisdom I had shown in choosing that route in preference to going overland 26 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. to Launceston, and thence taking the shorter passage across the Straits to Melbourne. A TERRIBLE EXPERIEN But my self-congratulations were short-lived, and soon changed to another key. Up to five o'clock in the afternoon the weather had been charming, but about that time a black cloud suddenly appeared, which speedily overspread the whole sky, and almost without warning a terrific storm burst upon us. All night long the tempest raged with appalling fury ; the wind screeched and howled in the most horrible manner ; and the waves roared and beat against the ship as if all the elements of destruction were let loose to work their malignant will upon us. At times the storm was accompanied by such violent descents of hail, that even the roaring of wind and waves was overpowered, and the lightning flashed continuously. We had a fearful night of it. Under the terrible strain the vessel shivered from stem to stern, and creaked and groaned like a living creature in mortal agony. How anxiously I listened for the throb of the engines as we lay in our cabins ! I felt that our only chance lay in the engines holding out ; and when at last some part of the machinery broke down, and the ship was tossed about helpless on that wild sea, drifting we knew not whither, I knew that our case was perilous indeed. To our inexpressible relief, the engines, after an hour's delay, which seemed an age, were got to work again, and hope once more revived within us. But oh ! how we longed for THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 27 the morning ! The morning came, but brought us no relief. The gale raged as fiercely as ever, and the captain, finding that he had not made twenty miles in thirteen hours, determined to give op the fight, and we ran for shelter to Waterloo Bay, on the Australian coast. All that day we lay in that sheltered haven, watching the awful tumult of waves outside, thankful that we had been so fortunate as to reach a place of shelter. Next morning the gale was as bad as ever, and showed no signs of abatement as the day advanced, but seemed rather to increase in intensity. However, at two o'clock in the afternoon, our captain announced his intention of making another attempt to reach Melbourne, as he had cargo on board intended for transhipment to England by one of the mail steamers, whose time for sailing from Williamstown was nearly due. The anchor was heaved up ; and, much against the will of the passengers, the Southern Cross steamed slowly out of the little bay to battle again with the angry elements. No sooner had we got out into the open sea than we encountered the full force of the gale, and our storm-beaten vessel was tossed about in a frightful sea. One moment she would mount the huge foam-crested waves, and the next plunge deep down into an abyss of boiling, seething waters, whence it seemed impossible she could ever emerge again. But she was " Staunch and strong, a goodly vessel ; " and nobly she rode the waves of that tempestuous sea. And so we struggled on, fighting our way inch by 28 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. inch in the teeth of the gale. The night came on, and a black darkness fell upon us, adding to the horror of our situation, and still with undiminished fury the storm continued. The winds, with unabated fierceness, assailed us from every quarter, and the tortured waves rushed together with a shock like that of contending armies, threatening every moment to engulf us in their stormy depths. To stop on deck was impossible. For our safety, we were sent down below. The hatchways were battened down, and we spent another night of great anxiety. And as we watched and waited down below, and listened to the great masses of water falling again and a^ain on the C3 O O O deck, under which our gallant ship reeled and staggered as one who has received a deadly blow, our hope of reaching the land we had come so far to see became exceedingly small. Only a very good ship could have lived in such a sea. At last, to our intense relief and thankfulness, the wind, after raging two days and a half, fell as the day broke, almost as suddenly as it had risen ; and by the goodness of an all-merciful God, we were brought safely through that fearful gale, the like of which I hope never again to experience. THE WORK OF THE SEA. It is more than probable that Tasmania at one time formed part of the Australian mainland; but the ever-encroaching sea, in the course of long ages, has eaten its way through the land, so forming Bass Straits, which now separate the two countries. Proof of this is furnished by the presence of great solitary THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 29 rocks standing out of the water far away from the land rocks which have hitherto withstood the action of the waves and the fury of the tempest. It will be understood, then, that this part of the Australian coast presents an iron-bound shore, cruel and in- hospitable to any unfortunate vessel that may be driven upon it. Moreover, from the geographical position of these Straits, constituting as they do a sort of huge mill-race running between two lands, they are liable to be visited by the storms which gather in the Indian and Pacific Oceans. The winds which have their birth in these wide seas blow with an intensely accumulated force as they rush through the more confined space of the Straits. From this cause, and also owing to the contrary currents which flow there, a more stormy bit of sea it would be difficult to find than that outside Hobson's Bay, and within Bass' Straits ; and many a good ship has come to grief on that part of the Australian coast. Late in the day of the 3rd of September we arrived at Melbourne, having been four days and a half in coming from Hobart, instead of the usual forty-four hours. MELBOURNE. And now, having brought my readers as far as Melbourne, my real troubles begin ; for, on looking back to my visit to the Australasian colonies, I find there is so much to tell concerning them and their enterprising populations, that I realise clearly enough the impossibility of doing anything like justice to the subject in this brief account of my visit. What 3 30 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. to notice, and what to leave unnoticed, is my difficulty; and in my aim at brevity I may of course omit, in the opinion of some, matters of the greatest importance. But to begin. Melbourne was the first city I visited, and it was there I received my first impressions of Australia and the Australians. Melbourne is the metropolis of Victoria, contains a population of 375,000 souls, and is unquestionably a fine city. The Melbournians call it the " Queen City of the South." They are proud of their city, and I think justifiably so ; for whether Melbourne is regarded from an archi- tectural point of view, or looked upon as an example of modern enterprise and rapid growth, it is certainly a wonderful city. Fifty years ago there was no city only a few canvas tents. A lady and not an old lady'either in speaking to me on the development of Melbourne, said she well remembered the time when the bullock waggons might be seen "stuck fast " in the mud where now stands the finest street in the city Collins Street the Regent Street of Melbourne. And what is Melbourne now ? A city of palatial buildings, noble parks, wide streets, whose roadways are alive with vehicles, and the pavements thronged with pedestrians, magnificent warehouses stored with produce, handsome shops filled with choice and valuable materials, well patronised by purchasers with plenty of money in their pockets. It is a noble, a prosperous city ; and it is something more it is a city of beautiful women. What business, some may say, had I to notice the beautiful women ? Well, I THE LAND or SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 31 could not help it, even if I had been disposed to try. There they were, and I felt no inclination to close my eyes to what was a palpable fact. I like to look upon anything that is beautiful ; and what in all the world is so beautiful as a beautiful woman, especially if she be good as well as beautiful ? Whether it be due to climate or some other cause, it is undoubtedly true that the women of Melbourne are unusually good-looking, and I suspect they know it, for they are very fond of dress. They apparel them- selves in bright, gay colours, in sympathy, I suppose, and corresponding with, the bright skies overhead ; but I did think that a refined taste was not always displayed in their attire. Some of the ladies I thought had not studied, or did not understand, the importance of harmony in the combination of colours. Like their fair sisters at home, some of the Mel- bourne ladies are guilty of the barbarous practice of "cropping" their hair, despoiling their heads of the luxuriant tresses which is the distinguishing adorn- ment of their sex. I am led to make this somewhat ungracious remark, because the Melbourne ladies have unusually fine heads of hair, due to climate, no doubt ; and to cut off their long silken tresses, at the bidding of an imperious and outrageous fashion, seemed to me to be little short of a crime. Fine a city as Melbourne already is, it will become even finer as the years roll on, for the authorities are doing all they can to beautify it. Wherever there is room to plant a tree, one is planted. And then it grows. There is no frost to kill off the tender shoots as they 32 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. appear, and trees grow out there with surprising rapidity. Again, the main approaches to Melbourne are all planted with rows of trees dividing off the road into separate ways for vehicular, equestrian, and pedestrian traffic. These trees are growing fast, and in a few years they will form delightful avenues, which will be a grateful shade in hot weather, and also add to the suburban beauty of the city. In these noble roadways we see the advantage of the land belonging to the Government, or, more correctly, the Nation, for no private individual, or even municipal body, would design and lay out roads on a scale so magnificently liberal as these Melbourne roads are. To enumerate the public institutions of the city, and describe the splendid buildings wherein their work is carried on, would be a pleasant task, but time forbids, and I must be content by saying and to the credit of our colonial friends be it said that every institu- tion religious,- moral, and intellectual known to modern civilisation, exists and flourishes in Mel- bourne. And their picture galleries, museums, public libraries, and kindred institutions are all free. As a matter of fact, I found free admission to be the rule everywhere. Only to the Zoological Gardens was payment for admission required. ENTERPRISE OF VICTORIANS. The Melbournians, or rather the Victorians for what I. now say applies to the whole of Victoria THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 33 are a pushing, go-ahead people. Everywhere you have evidence of their energy and business capacity, and a broad and comprehensive treatment characterises all their arrangements. Indeed, as far as my observa- tions enabled me to judge, I formed the opinion that Victoria was the most enterprising and prosperous of all the Australasian colonies. The reason is not far to seek. When gold was discovered, men of enterprise and resolution came from all parts of the world to Victoria, and, for the most part, settled permanently in the colony. Others of like character have since followed, attracted by the prospect of acquiring wealth and independence ; and hence we find in Victoria a population conspicuous for energy and business ability. The result is seen in a commerce which is all- embracing and constantly growing, in gigantic schemes of irrigation for the benefit of the colony, in the establishment of noble public institutions, and in ceaseless efforts to develop the resources of the colony, and to increase the well-being and happiness of the people. Doubtless, the tendency to " bounce a wee," which I noticed in our Australian friends, is due to the rapid and marvellous prosperity which has followed their efforts. COLONIAL POLITICS. Political institutions play an important part in the life of any people, so we will now take a rapid glance at the political institutions of Victoria. My first introduction to colonial politics caused me 34 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. considerable astonishment, for what did I find ? This a complete reversal of the order of things appertaining to party politics. In Victoria, Con- servatives are the Free-Traders, and Liberals are Protectionists, and very strong Protectionists too. This contradictory and incongruous state of politics is due entirely to the labour question. The working man has found something like an El Dorado in Victoria, and he naturally wants to keep it so. A skilled aitisan receives his twelve shillings a-day for eight hours' work. Free-Trade might interfere with this. He accordingly throws political theories and principles to the winds, and goes in " tooth and nail " for Protection, which gives him the big wage and short hours. The constitution of the Victorian Parliament is, with modifications, a copy of our English Parliament. Our House of Lords is represented by their Legisla- tive Council, with this great difference the councillors are elected on a property qualification for a term of six years. There is no hereditary claim or title as at home. Our House of Commons is represented by their Legislative Assembly, the members of which are elected triennially, and require no qualification. They differ, too, from the members of our House of Commons in that they are paid for their services. Now, payment of members may, in some cases, suit a young country. I can imagine a state of things where it might be even absolutely necessary; but what I saw and what I heard of the working of the system in Victoria had the effect of deepening the conviction I have long held that it will be an THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 35 unfortunate day for England if she ever departs from her present system and goes in for paid members. Let me show you how the plan works in Victoria. A member of the Legislative Assembly is paid 300 a-year, and is allowed to travel first class, free, on all the Victorian railways, the railways in Australia being Government property ; and by a reciprocal arrangement he travels also free on the railways of the other colonies. To get into Parliament, then, means at least a decent competency ; and the position is much sought after by those men who will be anything and promise anything for the sake of the emoluments belonging to the office. Faults, however, are to be found in every system, and it must be conceded that Victoria, under her system of Protection and paid members, has greatly prospered. CLIMATE. The climate of Victoria is delightful. The dust- storms are certainly objectionable ; but they are not frequent not more, I was told, than eight in the year ; and, take it all in all, the climate is charming. The Victorians know nothing of dull, leaden skies nor dismal fogs. The sun shines upon them day after day for the most part of the year, and the effect of it is seen in their cheerful, happy-looking faces. It was a fact that impressed me greatly during our five weeks' stay in Melbourne this cheerful look which was to be seen on the face of every person we met. Material prosperity, doubtless, had something to do with it, but the glorious sunshine, I think, had most of all. 36 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. The fine climate tempts the people to live a good deal out of doors ; and when I tell you that the public parks and reserves in and around Melbourne number more than fifty, and cover nearly 5,000 acres, you will not be surprised to hear that the Melbournians go in largely for outdoor recreation and enjoyment. Yes ! they take life pleasantly do these Melbourne folk ; and to see them enjoying themselves all well dressed and prosperous-looking is, indeed, a pleasant sight. The authorities encourage cricket and all outdoor games, and large spaces are set apart in the reserves or domains as practice-grounds. It is no wonder that the Australians can send over to England powerful cricket teams. The mildness of the atmosphere per- mits them to play nine or ten months out of the twelve, and every opportunity is given to the youth of the country to practise from the time they are able to handle a " bat." I was fond of visiting these parks the Botanical Gardens especially because I discovered that an im- ported English blackbird had his home there. Many an hour my wife and I sat and listened to his rich mellow notes ; and as we hearkened to his well- known song, dear old England rose before our vision, and we thought of those so far away. Australia is not the home of many singing birds ! SCENERY. For natural scenery the colony falls far short of New Zealand or Tasmania, and the great scarcity of singing birds is an inexpressible loss. Fancy the THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 37 woods and groves of England in the spring and summer time without the glad music of the birds ! To a lover of the country the thought is unbearable. And then, the sparkling, chattering streams which make our own country so charming are not features in Australian scenery. The most imaginative and most patriotic Australian poet would scarcely venture to describe one of his native streams as singing on its way "To join the brimming river," as TENNYSON makes " The Brook " to sing " I steal by lawns and grassy plots, I slide by hazel covers ; I move the sweet forget-me-nots That grow for happy lovers. " I slip, I slide, I gloom, I glance, Among my skimming swallows ; I make the netted sunbeam dance Against my sandy shallows." I would not have you think, however, that Australia has no beautiful scenery to charm the eye and elevate the mind. There is scenery the grandest, sublime, awe-inspiring. Only when this is said, it still must be admitted that the general character of the scenery is somewhat tame, and open to the objection of sameness. Australia also suffers from drought at times; but when the colonists get their irrigation schemes fully developed, the loss and suffering caused by exception- ally dry seasons will be greatly mitigated. With the mention of these drawbacks, all that can fairly be urged against Australia has been stated; and, 38 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. for the rest, it is a good land a land of plenty where abundance for all is the rule a land of great natural wealth, and possessing a climate of the finest ; in short, a land of " sunshine and gold," as it is named by the colonists themselves. VICTORIA A DESIRABLE COLONY FOR THE WORKING CLASSES. What advantages do the colonies offer to the artisan and labouring classes ? For answer let us look at the conditions of the working man's lot in the colony of Victoria. The big wage paid and the short hours worked I have already mentioned; but the good things enjoyed by the working man do not end with these. His children are educated free in the magnificent State schools erected all over the colony schools which are monu- ments of the enlightened views of the people and a credit to the free institutions of Victoria. His children also, if they reside some distance from the school they attend, are conveyed to and fro free by the Government railways and tramcars. Then food is cheap. He lives well ; and caste being almost un- known, he holds up his head, if he has character, with the best in the land. True, clothing is dear, and rents are disproportionately high ; but his advantages far outweigh the disadvantages. Let me mention a fact which bears out this statement in a way which will be duly appreciated. I was five weeks in Mel- bourne, and in the whole of that time I never saw, with the exception of four blind men, a poorly- THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 39 dressed person. I was so much impressed with this circumstance, that I never went out but what I looked for a shabbily-dressed man, woman, or child; but, with the exceptions just before-named, I never met one. I never saw a child without shoes or stockings arid in that sunny land to go barefooted would be small discomfort all the little ones I saw were well clothed from their feet upwards. I am not going to say that there is no poverty in Melbourne. There will be poor always in every city. But what I do say is that poverty, as we know it in England, does not exist in Victoria. There are no workhouses, no poor rates. They are not needed. The aged and infirm poor are provided for in the benevolent asylums of the colony institutions which are maintained by public subscriptions, supplemented by annual Government grants. The four blind men already alluded to might have lived comfortably in one of these asylums, but they preferred the streets. Speaking to a member of the Legislative Assembly on the apparently prosperous condition' of the working classes, I casually referred to these blind men as the only poor I had seen, whereupon he burst into an indignant denunciation of these individuals, calling them a disgrace to the city, and who should, if they had their deserts, be locked up. Now, if I have so far made my meaning clear, it will be abundantly evident that I think highly of the colony of Victoria, as presenting many and great advantages of a physical, social, and general character. To men of enterprise and industry it offers a fine field for their energies. Fortunes may not be made so 40 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. rapidly as in the earlier life of the colony; but wealth and affluence are still to be attained by the exercise of those same qualities which brought wealth to those who are to-day the rich men of the colony. To working men, men of grit, men who can and will work, the colony has much to offer. For their labour they will always receive a remuneration which will enable them to live in comfort and far above the fear of want. But there is no room for idle men, wide as the colony is ; aiid men who have failed in everything at home are not the sort of people who are wanted out yonder. Gold is not to be picked off the streets any more than it is at home. It needs to be worked for just as in England only it is more easily made in Victoria, and there is not such a scramble for it. HIGHEST OFFICES OPEN TO ALL. In all the Australian colonies the highest offices in the land are open to men of energy and ability. This, I daresay is, to some extent, true of most countries where free government prevails ; but it is pre- eminently the case in Australia. Take an example or two from the Victorian Ministry. The Premier, Mr. GILLIES, was at one time a working miner at the gold diggings. The Speaker, Mr. LALOR,* was also a miner, and figured prominently as a rioter in the "Gold-digging riots," and had an arm shot off in an encounter with the military. Crossing over the border to New South Wales, we find the same opportunities given to men of ability to * Has died since this was written. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 41 reach the highest positions. Sir HENRY PARKES,* the present Premier, was originally an English chartist. For some time after his arrival in Sydney he worked as a day labourer. Later he became a dealer in children's toys, which he sold in the streets. Noiv he is Premier of the oldest Legislative Assembly in Australia. Sir PATRICK JENNINGS, the Ex-Premier, in his earlier days, was a member of a nigger troupe which performed in the streets of Sydney ; Sir PATRICK, then plain PATRICK, being the "Bones "of the troupe. Energy, force of character, brains, have of course carried these men to the front, and raised them to high positions; but how long would they have to live to rise to similar positions in the old country ? Ay, how long ? COLONIAL HOSPITALITY. And now a few words about colonial hospitality and kindness. No language can adequately describe the measure of kindness my wife and I received while in Australia. Wherever we went we were welcomed with a cordiality that fairly overpowered us. Had we been members of the Royal Family, we could scarcely have had more courteous attention extended to us. I would like you to understand how the colonials treat visitors from the old country, and this must be my excuse for mentioning the following incidents by way of illustration. We were introduced by a friend (Mr. COATES) to the Mayor of Melbourne at his chambers. He received us with a courtesy which was * Sir HENRY PARKES has recently married a Northumbrian young lady. 42 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. perfect. Pressed though he was with his official duties, he at once put everything aside to attend to us. He showed us all over the hall, pointing out and explaining everything as we passed through the different rooms, one room containing portraits of all the Governors and Mayors from the earliest period of the colony's history. The official chain and other things likely to interest us were brought out for our inspection. Refreshments were set before us ; the Town Clerk and City Surveyor were notified of our visit ; and on these gentlemen joining us we sat and chaffed away for nearly an hour ; they asking us all about the old country, and also suggesting plans whereby our visit to the colony might be made thoroughly enjoyable. And when, at last, the Mayor was compelled to leave us to attend a committee meeting (which, by the way, on our departure I discovered had been waiting him for some time), he, before leaving, arranged for a member of the Council to attend to us, and specially requested him to act for him in his unavoidable absence. That is a specimen of colonial courtesy ! Now, neither my wife nor I was vain enough to imagine that the courtesy shown to us was offered us in our capacity of private individuals. No, we saw in it the kindly, filial feeling the colonials cherish towards the mother country. In honouring us they were honouring Old England, whose children we were. The only other incident which I will name follows on the same lines as the first. We wanted to see the Legislative Assembly at work ; and, accompanied by- THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 43 the friend who had introduced us to the Mayor, we went to the House, where we met a member (Mr. Zox) comino- out. who informed us that the House had O * adjourned for an hour and a half for dinner. As soon as this gentleman understood we were from Old England, he offered at once to conduct us over both Houses before the Assembly resumed its sitting. We protested that we could not think of him delaying his dinner on our account. He insisted, and, as a com- promise, we agreed to go in with him, on the under- standing that he should hand us over to one of the House officials, and that he then should go and dine. But it ended in this. He personally guided us over the whole place; and, despite all our protests and entreaties, he remained with us until the sitting was resumed, when, after getting us orders for admission, he took his place in the House, dinnerless. By the way, I noticed that the majority of the speakers in the House that night were Scotchmen. The acts of courtesy and kindness which I have- just related may be considered as the outcome of a national sentiment viz., love for the mother country. But we also received from our colonial friends kind- ness just as great which was of a purely personal nature. During part of the time we were at Melbourne I was very unwell, and it was then that the friends we had made, out in that far-away land, proved what warm hearts they had. They visited us ; they ministered to us ; they cheered us ; we were never allowed to feel that we were strangers in a strange land. And just fancy one gentleman in Geelong (a 44 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. warm-hearted Tynesider) offering us his house as our home for a week, for a month, or as long as we chose to stay ; begging us to take his offer as a favour to himself, and urging that if my wife and I wanted to be quiet and alone, he and his family would live in an entirely different part of the house. Could kindness further go ? These and many similar acts of hospitality and politeness of which we were the recipients touched us deeply, and will remain sunny spots in our memories as Ions: as w T e live. LOVE FOR ENGLAND. The Australians are greatly attached to the mother country, and are proud of their connection with her. When speaking of England, they always speak of it as "Home." Even the native-born Australians speak in the same way. The old country with them is "Home" always "Home." It is really delightful to listen to them as they talk about Old England. There is something of reverence in their tones when talking of her, and in the expressions used concerning her. The Queen they regard with feelings of deep and strong affection. With them she is a woman to be venerated because of her exalted position, and because of her noble life. In the kindly feeling cherished towards the mother country, and in the loyalty to the Throne manifested throughout the whole of Australasia, we have one of the surest guarantees of the stability of the English THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 45 Empire. Were England in need or in peril, I believe her children in those far-off colonies would come to her help in a way that would surprise the world. Let us hope that nothing may be said or done on our side which will tend to weaken the sentiment of loyalty in the colonies. All such expressions as " Perish India," " Let the colonies go," and the like, are positively wicked. They who use them know not what they do. To wound the susceptibilities of a warm-hearted and loyal people is to do a grievous wrong. The colonials, as I have said, are loyal and proud of their connection with old England. This makes them sensitive to apparent slights on our side. They feel keenly anything said or done at home of an unkindly nature. They cannot bear to be misunderstood, or to have their actions misinterpreted by the mother country. They think and perhaps with reason that hitherto England has taken but little notice of them, and that she knows little of their progress as a people, and of their social and political life. Try to combat this idea, and they will point to the fact for fact it is that English newspapers will give a column to the doings of any little European Power, while they will dismiss important colonial affairs with a three or four- lined paragraph. Latterly, especially since the holding of the Colonial Exhibition, more attention has been given to colonial questions ; and it is pleasing to note that our legislators and others in authority are awaking to the importance of our colonies, and the desirability of drawing closer the ties which bind them to the mother country. 4 46 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. BALLARAT. The town next in importance to Melbourne in the Colony of Victoria is Ballarat. It is distant from Melbourne by rail about a hundred miles, has a popu- lation of 46,000 souls, and is an important gold-mining centre. Nobody visiting Australia should miss seeing Ballarat, even if he has to do as I did leave Mel- bourne in the morning and return again the same day for, has not Ballarat, within the memory of comparatively young people, been famed for big nuggets, representing fortunes to the lucky finders ? And although such golden prizes may not now be picked up as formerly, gold-mining at Ballarat is still a large and, on the whole, profitable industry. But apart altogether from its gold mines, Ballarat offers much to interest the observant traveller, and I make no apology for taking you thither. Early in the morning, accompanied by a friend (Mr. COATES), I left Melbourne to. visit the " Golden City" (Ballarat). As the train whirled us along, we had brief glimpses of homesteads reared by industrious hands, and wide spaces cleared and cultivated by infinite labour. Some of the houses we saw on the route were of a very primitive character, and the home comforts provided in them could only have been of the smallest. Still, thought I, the occupiers are living out in the clear, creating independent positions for themselves ; and laborious though the life may be, it is vastly prefer- able to living in crowded cities, and under conditions which are alike unfavourable to health, morals, and THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 47 material prosperity, as, alas, unfortunately, great numbers of our city populations have to do ! As we sped along the iron road, stretches of appar- ently fertile land lying waste attracted my attention ; and on inquiry I learnt these had once been flourishing vineyards; but now vineyards no longer. The phylloxera pest, which has wrought such havoc in the vineyards of Europe, had, a few years before our visit, attacked the Victorian vineyards, and threatened to spread all over the country. The authorities became alarmed, and at once took steps to stamp out the disease. A bill was rushed through both Houses in a few nights which gave the Government power to uproot all the vines in the infected districts, to forbid re-planting for seven years, and to compensate the owners for their loss. They do things mightily quickly in Australia when need demands ! Many other things of interest we saw on that journey to Ballarat of which I might speak; but I think it better not to linger on the way, as we have much to see and comment on before leaving Australia, and must hurry on. I should like, however, to briefly describe the method the Australians adopt for clearing the land of " bush " (forest) before it can be prepared for cultivation. The trees first of all are " ringed," that is, a piece of bark is cut out all round the tree. This stops the rising of the sap, and the tree soon dies. After " ringing," the trees are allowed to stand for a year, and under the influence of the fierce Australian sun, they are, at the end of that time, perfectly dry and easily burnt. From the carriage windows we saw 48 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. vast tracts of country with the trees standing dead ready to be fired. We also observed large tracts of land which had been partly cleared of timber ; the stumps of the trees alone standing. These stumps, to the height of about three feet, and bleached white with the sun, bore a strong and uncomfort- able resemblance to tombstones in a huge grave- yard. There is yet more work to be done before the settler can sow his seed and grow his corn. The stumps are to be grubbed up or got rid of by fire ; and of him truthfully it nray be said, that he " earns his bread by the sweat of his brow." But a reaping time will assuredly follow. In fruitful meadows and waving corn-fields he shall see the reward of his hard and patient toil. "The wilderness and the solitary place shall be glad ; and the desert shall rejoice " because of his industry. As we drew near to Ballarat, the country greatly improved both in its scenery and fertility ; and by the time we steamed into the station, I was prepared to find Ballarat and its surroundings different from what my imagination had depicted. I was not, how- ever, prepared for the wide contrast between the real Ballarat and the Ballarat I had expected to see. I expected to find Ballarat a large mining village, or at besc a mining town, with the usual evidences of mining scattered round. But what I did find was a lovely city with handsome buildings, whose main streets were beautified with avenues of stately trees, providing a grateful shade from the heat of the burn- ing sun. I was alike amazed and gratified. To me it THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 49 was wonderful. At once I conceived an immense respect for the Ballarat people. The further acquaintance I had of Ballarat during the few hours I was there did not in any way diminish the first impressions I had received ; but, contrariwise, the more I saw the more I was impressed in its favour, and this cannot be said of every place one visits. A VISIT TO A GOLD MINE. And now, being as brief as possible, I will give you a few particulars of my visit to this interesting city. A gold mine was, as of course, the first thing I wanted to see ; so, armed with a letter of introduction to the manager, my friend and I drove straight to the Band of Hope and Albion Gold Mine, where we were most courteously received. We were shown over the above-ground works, and had explained to us the mode of extracting the gold from the quartz, and saw at work the great batteries pulverising the quartz, and the process for washing and intercepting the gold. It was all very prosaic. In fact, the romance of the gold digger's life is gone, now that the gold is no longer found in nuggets on or near the surface. Gold- digging has given place to gold-mining. Deep shafts are sunk, and the gold-bearing quartz is gotten the same as coal is in our coal mines. So, when invited to go down below, we excused ourselves, having seen enough, and for the reason that a gold mine would be no novelty to us, if, as the courteous manager 50 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. assured us it was, in its working arrangements, similar to those of a coal mine. BALLARAT BOTANICAL GARDENS. Next we visited the Botanical Gardens, and we were fortunate in having for our guide a retired banker (Mr. ODDIE), who knew the history of Ballarat from its beginning, he having settled there when seven canvas tents composed the town. With the generous kindness which was characteristic of all the colonials we met, he placed his services freely at our disposal ; and his knowledge and experience were to us invalu- able. Our route to the gardens lay up the principal street (Sturt Street) a wide, noble thoroughfare, p ] anted up the centre with rows of fine trees and then along a beautiful road which was so homelike, with the English trees on either side of it, that I could scarcely realise I was out of England. The gardens are charming ; park-like in extent, and offering a pleasing variety of landscape and ornamental gardening. The highest skill procurable for love or money has been exercised in the laying-out and development of the place ; and the work has been done with excellent taste and judgment. The Ballarat people are justly proud of their Botanical Gardens; and if they are prone to " blow " a bit on the subject, their " blowing " is pardonable. Within the gardens is a fine sheet of water, on which ply innumerable pleasure-boats and half-a-dozen steam vachts or more. This is a favourite resort for both T.HE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 51 young and old ; and the animated scene on the lake which we saw under the clear blue sky and brilliant sun was a picture of beauty and innocent enjoyment which I am not likely to forget. An aquatic plant grows luxuriantly too luxuriantly in the lake ; and Mr. ODDIE told me that the manag- ing authorities expended between five and six hundred pounds annually in keeping it down. This, I thought, was evidence of three things a liberal-minded management, a healthy exchequer, and a prosperous, contented people. These gardens are not for purposes of recreation alone ; they are intended for instruction as well, especially in matters botanical, and trees and plants from probably all parts of the world may be seen and studied there. Fish-culture also is carried on. In the breeding troughs I saw (apparently) millions of tiny trout which, in due time, would be placed in the lake. I have already spoken of the rapid growth of trees in Australia in consequence of the favourable climatic conditions. This fact was illustrated to a notable degree in the Ballarat Gardens. Noticing some healthy-looking pine trees whose trunks were fully eighteen inches in diameter, I asked Mr. ODDIE how long these trees had been planted. His reply was prompt and unhesitating. " Fifteen years," he said. I felt incredulous, and I suppose must have looked so ; for, calling the gardener to him, he put the question, " How long have these trees been planted ? " " Well," answered the gardener, " I have been here exactly fifteen years, and I was present at the planting of 52 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. them." Ah! that gardener. He was a Cumberland man ; and when he knew I came from Northumber- land and was acquainted with the lakes and mountains of his native county, he did not know what to do for me. Poor fellow, he was lame ; but, despite his condition, he limped round with us, pointing out everything likely to interest us. After parting from him, and when we had got some little distance away, I turned round and looked back, and there he stood in exactly the same spot where we had parted in exactly the same attitude, gazing after us with a wistful look ; and it needed no words to tell me that he was thinking of the old home he had left in Cumberland so many years ago. All the time I was in the gardens, no matter how much interested in the information I was receiving from my courteous guide, I had one ear constantly engaged drinking in the most delicious bird-music. I could not, nor would not, shut it out. What bird- music ! in a country where the birds are, for the most part, songless. Yes, ravishing bird-music ! The gardens were vocal with the song of English thrushes and blackbirds. How came they there ? That was what I desired to know. Our cab-driver, whose rich brogue proclaimed his nationality, gave me the information I wanted. Many years ago, he informed me, an English miner, who had gone to the old country to receive a legacy due to him, had, on his return, brought with him several pairs of English thrushes and blackbirds, and from these parent birds the present numerous colony had sprung. In the mild climate of Ballarat these birds nest three times a THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 53 year, and they promise to become very numerous. I do not think, however, that these charming songsters will ever become generally distributed over the Australian continent. The climate is too dry to furnish them with their natural food ; and it is only in such places as Ballarat Botanical Gardens (at any rate that is my opinion, whatever it may be worth), where the conditions are sufficiently favourable for their food supply, that they can exist and multiply. Gladly would we have lingered in these beautiful gardens gladly would we have explored every sunny nook and winding maze ; but time was on the wing, and we had, perforce, to go. A FLORAL MARVEL. Leaving the Botanical Gardens, we drove straight to the gardens kept by an enterprising florist which Mr. ODDIE was anxious we should visit because of a wonderful sight there to be seen viz., " the Primrose Walk" of which the proprietor was very proud. By special cultivation and constant care, Mr. SMITH, the proprietor, had succeeded in growing borders of primroses down the principal walk, and that primrose walk was the pride of Ballarat. Why this should be will be understood if it be borne in mind that the climate of Australia is much too dry for the growth of the primrose, and that favourite English flower is almost unknown in the country. Only a week previous to our visit, LADY LOCH, the Governor's wife, had visited the " Primrose Walk," and had gone down 54 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. on her knees on the gravelled walk and buried her face in the rich yellow clusters of the flower she knew and loved so welL I did not exactly follow LADY LOCH'S example : but, oh, how I did enjoy the unexpected sight of an English primrose in that far- away land ! It is a pity, I think, that a flower so modest, so unpretentious in its beauty should of late years have become associated with a question so rancorous as party polities, PROGRESS OF ART AND SCIENCE. Time fails me to tell of the many other objects of interest I saw in Ballarat, such as the Observatory, the Geological Museum, the Mining Schools, etc. Only I would, in taking leave of the " Golden City," just like to say as a parting word, that the arts and sciences and kindred subjects are encouraged and cultivated to a degree which one would scarcely expect to find in a city whose history is but of yesterday. It might be that I was more than ordinarily fortunate in having such a guide as Mr. ODDEE to show me over the many educational institutions of Ballarat ; but I confess I was surprised at the number and character of these institutions and the evidence they furnished of the enlightend views and enterprise of the people. I left the " Golden City" with the conviction that it was, with its fine climate and other advantages, one of the most desirable places in which to reside that I had yet visited. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 55 FAREWELL TO VICTORIA. Geelong, the next city in importance to Ballarat, I should in common gratitude stop to describe, for in that city I received great kindness when I was weak and ill ; but Geelong, with many other places of interest worthy of special notice, must of necessity be passed over for want of time. New South Wales, the mother colony of Australia, claims our attention, and if anything like justice is to be done to that important colony, we must here take our leave of Victoria, leaving much very much undescribed. MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY. We went by rail from Melbourne to Sydney. The distance is 575 miles. At the invitation of a member of the New South Wales Legislative Council (the Honourable WILLIAM HALLIDAY), we, that is my wife and I, joined him and his three daughters in an engaged carriage, which proved to be a comfortable and pleasant arrangement. From Melbourne to Albury the junction station between the two colonies the distance is 190 miles ; and while we are travelling between the two places I will take the opportunity of dealing with a few matters, chiefly religious and social, which seem to me to deserve special mention. First, touching the ecclesiastical life of the colonies, I have to say that all religious bodies are on precisely the same footing. There is no State Church in Australia. There is no question of toleration. All 56 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. the sects are equal. The consequence is that the different religious bodies work together more than they do in England, and certainly with much greater harmony. Arising out of this equality of the sects, I am tempted to mention an incident of recent date which has both its amusing and instructive side. In connection with the opening of the present Melbourne Exhibition, in August 1888, the question arose as to who should be invited to offer the opening prayer. The Anglican Bishop, the Roman Catholic Bishop, and the Moderator of the Presbyterian Synod, all seemed to have an equal claim to precedence, and a somewhat serious difficulty presented itself. In the end, the difficulty was surmounted in a very simple and practical way. The President of the Exhibition, Sir JAMES McBAix, offered the prayer himself, and so settled the matter. The Colonial Governments have, especially in earlier times, been very generous in their treatment of the different religious bodies. Land was at first granted gratuitously for church-building purposes, to any and every denomination of Christians ; and some of the churches in Melbourne, I was told, were prac- tically endowed through these grants of land. Thus, more land was usually allotted than was needed for the sites of the erections. The Government wishing to encourage the building of places of worship, and land then being cheap, they gave it with no niggard hand. Consequently, when afterwards land increased in value, some of the congregations were able to sell such portions as they did not require at a high figure, or to utilise it in some form which brought THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 57 in revenue, and thus large incomes (practically en- dowments) have been realised from the unearned increment. In Victoria, these " grants-in-aid," as they are called, have now been discontinued ; but the Victorian Parliament in 1870 passed an Act whereby the lands already granted were made over in perpetuity to the congregations to whom the grants were made; and although these "grants-in-aid" have been abolished, I believe it is still the practice, where the Govern- ment is the vendor, to sell land on easier terms than ordinarily, if it is wanted to build a church upon. These remarks, I ought to say, apply exclusively to the colony of Victoria. I am not acquainted with the custom of the other colonies on these questions ; but I believe a liberal spirit prevails in all. SOCIAL PROGRESS. Next, touching the temperance question. Sunday-closing is the rule in all the Australian colonies ; and judging by the number of people I saw wearing the " tiny bit of blue," I should say that the blue ribbon movement has obtained a firm hold in Australia. I do not think I met more than three persons who might be fairly described as drunk during the eight weeks I was in the country. I am not, however, going to be so foolish as to affirm that there is scarcely any drunkenness in Australia because I observed so little. Men and women do get drunk there, as the police reports prove ; still, I am disposed 58 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. to think there is less drunkenness in Australia than in England. In one respect Australia is immeasur- ably ahead of England, and especially is this true of Melbourne. I refer to the splendid coffee palaces, which are conducted on strictly temperance principles. These establishments are, in cleanliness, comfort, and general arrangements, equal to the best-appointed hotels. All you expect to find in a first-class hotel you will meet with in these coffee palaces, barring the drink. The buildings are worthy of the city com- modious, handsome. We have nothing approaching to them, as temperance places, in England, that I know of. The Grand Coffee Palace, near the Parliament Houses, is quite palatial in its style of architecture. It was originally erected for an hotel the Grand but not proving remunerative, it was disposed of to one of the Coffee Palace Companies. These coffee palaces, I was informed, have, so far, proved a decided commercial success, yielding a handsome return for the large sums invested in them. They also provide for a want long felt in large towns ; and, in my opinion, they are doing a work of a very practical and comprehensive character in favour of sobriety and temperance. A RAILWAY ANOMALY. But now we must leave these matters, and return to our railway journey, for we are slackening speed and our train is slowly steaming into Albury Station. And here a surprise awaits us. It will scarcely be credited, but it is true, the two colonies (Victoria and THE FEDKilAL COFFEE PALACE. MELBOURNE. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 59 New South Wales) have laid down lines of different gauges, and we passengers and our luggage, and all the goods and general merchandise, had to be transhipped from the train in which we came from Melbourne to one that was to take us to Sydney. Could anything be more ridiculous 1 Many reasons were given me for such an anomalous state of things ; but I clearly saw that the true reason was a colonial jealousy as short- sighted as it was absurd. The time was nearly midnight, and as we had an hour to wait while the contents of a whole train were being transferred, we occupied the time in discussing a substantial supper, which helped to mollify our ruffled feelings. As soon as we got on board the new train we retired to rest. We had engaged sleeping berths some days beforehand ; and as " Tired Nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep," enfolded us in her gentle embrace, we forgot for a season the extraordinary folly of these Colonial Governments in constructing their railway lines of different gauges ; and when we awoke refreshed in DO' the morning, we felt as if we could forgive, although we could not excuse them. We breakfasted at a station the name of which I forget, and when the bell rang us back to our train we found our beds replaced by easy -chairs ; and save for the oscillation of the carriages, which was very bad, our journey to Sydney was performed in comfort. 60 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. THE BABBIT PEST. As the train carried us through the country, I kept a sharp look-out for rabbits. I had heard so much about the rabbit pest that I expected to see them in their thousands, and to find startling evidence of their destructiveness as we went along. But not a rabbit did I see during that ride of 574 miles from Mel- bourne to Sydney ; and as a matter of fact I never once saw a live wild rabbit all the time I was in Australia, albeit I travelled many hundreds of miles far away from towns where one would naturally expect to come across them. But the rabbit pest is a real pest for all that, and one that entails a heavy burden on the colonies infested by them. That I saw no rabbits nor evidence of their presence was, I sup- pose, due to the fact that they had not yet invaded those parts of the country which I had visited. So serious is the rabbit scourge in Australia that the aid of special legislation has at various times been invoked to deal with the evil, and many plans have been tried for the extermination of the little furry creatures. At one time vast numbers of men were employed in destroying the rabbits, partly at the cost of the squatters and partly at that of the Government ; but this course was found of little or no value, and was soon abandoned. It was said by some that the men employed to destroy the rabbits purposely left a few live ones behind them to increase and multiply, in order that their craft might not be endangered. This o o might be a libel ; probably it was. The fact, however, THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 61 remains that the rabbits continued to increase in numbers in spite of the army of men employed to exterminate them. The plan of limiting the area of the infested dis- tricts has been tried, and perhaps with a little more success, by the erection of strong wire-netting to separate the infested from the non-infested districts ; the main lines, or great dividing fences, being erected at the expense of the Government, who also advance money at easy rates to the squatters, to enable them to enclose their runs. Shortly after I left Australia, a measure, called the " Rabbit Pest Suppression Bill," was introduced by the Minister of Lands to the New South Wales Par- liament. By this bill, if it should become law, the colony will be divided into rabbit districts, and the local boards invested with full powers for dealing with the levying of assessments for the destruction of rabbits, and the erection of rabbit-proof fencing in the infested districts; the Government granting loans to cover half the expense of erecting the rabbit-proof fences, at four per cent, interest. By these and such other methods as may seem likely to accomplish their object, the Australians are endeavouring to stamp out an evil which has already become one of great magnitude. It is reckoned that rabbits are now being destroyed at the rate of fifty millions a-year, and still they are increasing. This pest was introduced into Victoria by a man named THOMAS AUSTIN, with the best of intentions assuredly ; but his name is not likely to be held in 5 62 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. reverence by a grateful posterity. Since then the rabbit has spread over good part of the colonies of Victoria and New South Wales, and is now threatening Queensland. What momentous issues are bound up in little things ! When THOMAS AUSTIN introduced his half- dozen pairs of rabbits into the country to make it more home-like, doubtless he little thought what havoc his act would ultimately entail upon the country of his adoption. The rabbit has already cost the colonies millions of pounds sterling, and is likely to cost them millions more. COLONIAL RAILWAYS. Incidentally, I have already alluded to colonial railway management, by mentioning the fact of lines of rail having been laid down of different gauges, to the serious loss and interruption of traffic between the colonies ; and as some further observations which I have to make on colonial railways and their manage- ment would, it seems to me, fitly come in here, I shall now take up the question before our train lands us at Sydney, where other matters will occupy our attention. I found the railways in Victoria better managed than those in New South Wales. It was not always so. Until a few years back, the Victorian railways were managed by a committee of members of the Houses of Parliament, with results far from satisfac- tory. The end of each financial year generally I believe always showed a deficit, and the railways, THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 63 which ought to have contributed their share to the Government treasury, were causes of leakage instead. This state of things eventually led to a change of management, not without a struggle, for abuses die hard a change having the happiest results. A board of three commissioners was appointed to manage the railways, one of whom was to be chief commissioner, and was required to be a practical railway manager. A gentleman, Mr. SPEIGHT, holding an important appointment under one of the principal railway com- panies in England, was chosen as chief commissioner ; arid since his appointment, and under the new regime instituted by him, the Victorian railways began first to pay expenses, and then to make a substantial return on the capital invested. Now, these Victorian railways, which at one time were a financial loss to the colony, have developed into a most valuable pro- perty. On all sides, as far as I could learn, the change was ascribed to the improved management. Other causes may have, to some extent, co-operated in the improvement such as an increasing population, etc. but it is beyond question that the better management has been the chief factor in bringing about the new and improved state of matters. A very different state of things prevails in New South Wales. In that colony the Government still clings to the system which the Victorian Govern- ment has wisely abandoned, and the railways of New South Wales are worked, as might be expected, at a serious loss. The weak spot in the management is the same as that which formerly prevented the Victorian railways from being profitably worked 64 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. viz., too many managers " 'prentice hands " who do not know their business, and who so it is said have interests of their own to serve as well. Victoria found out the weak spot and applied the remedy ; but New South Wales has not yet made up her mind to cleanse the Augean stable, and until she does she may lay her account with loss instead of profit in the working of her railways. If I was correctly informed and I have no reason to doubt the accuracy of the statement given to me there are engaged on the New South Wales railways fifty per cent, more men than are needed, and yet one is not, as might be reasonably expected under these circum- stances, overwhelmed with attention. Quite the reverse is the case, the truth being that the surplus men employed keep out of sight instead of coming forward to help. The explanation of the whole matter lies in a nutshell. The little word " vote " covers it all. Every man not an alien who has resided six months in the colony possesses the franchise. The vote is wanted, and the holder thereof must be provided for somehow. There are people in England who want the rail- ways handed over to the Government. Leave them where they are, I say. They are better in the hands of public companies. Political influence and patronage may be all very well in their way, but they do not help railway management, and New South Wales will, sooner or later, for financial reasons, if for no other, be compelled to do as the sister colony of Victoria has THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 65 done take the management of her railways out of the hands of those who have political interests to serve, and entrust it to a board of practical men who are independent of political influences.* SYDNEY. But hark ! What is the name of the station the porters are calling ? Syd-ney ! Syd-ney ! Oh ! we get out here, and railway management and such like questions must, for the present, give place to the pressing business of looking after one's luggage, and the still more important business of choosing our quarters for a time. We decided to go to PETTY'S Hotel, which was recommended to us as being the best in Sydney, and stay there until we could find time to look round for private apartments. We were fortunate in finding, after a few days, the accommodation we wanted in Macquarie Street, close to the Parliament Houses, and within a few hundred yards of the Botanical Gardens and the Governor's house. The position was a most favour- able one for our purpose. It was convenient, being within easy distance of the tramcars, which run in Sydney with railway regularity, and it was not far from the centre of the city. It had the further advantage of being an excellent place for our seeing * Since this was written, New South Wales has appointed a practical railway manager, Mr. EDDY, as Chief Commissioner, with a salary of 3,000 a-year ; and her railways are now managed on lines similar to those of Victoria. 66 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. and studying Sydney life both in its higher and lower grades, for from the balcony of our house we saw the elite of New South Wales passing to and from the Governor's house, and also the crowds which hung about the Parliament Houses. Sydney was not founded under the happiest cir- cumstances. As is well known, its history began as a penal settlement. A hundred years ago, Captain PHILIP landed where Sydney now stands with a batch of convicts from England, and he and his unhappy charges were the founders of Sydney. From such unpromising beginnings there grew up a noble city, and a new country was opened out which has since developed into one of the richest colonies attached to the English Crown, and become the home of hundreds of thousands of the Anglo-Saxon race. Sydney people are keenly sensitive on the convict question, and this one can understand. But while it is true that convicts were the first settlers, the growth of the city was not so much due to them as to the free emigrants who voluntarily made Sydney their home. This is historically true, and the people of Sydney need not look back upon the early history of their city with shame and humilia- tion. Sydney occupies one of the finest sites in the world, and has a population of 295,000 souls. Un- like Melbourne, which was carefully surveyed and planned before the streets were laid out, Sydney has grown gradually without any definite plan at the first, and it is wanting in the regularity and TOWN HALL, SYDNEY. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 67 orreat width of the streets which distinguish Mel- o ra bourne. Nevertheless, it is a beautiful city. It has many noble buildings, finer, I think, than anything in Melbourne, but they do not show to the same advantage owing to the narrower streets of Sydney. It is, however, when you come to view the noble situation of Sydney that you fully realise the advantage it possesses over its rival, Melbourne. Standing as it does on the shores of, admittedly, one of the noblest harbours in the world, Sydney occupies a position to which Melbourne can lay no claim ; nor indeed would it be easy to find anything to equal it anywhere the whole world over. ANTHONY TROLLOPE, who has visited Sydney, says : " I despair of being able to convey to any reader my own idea of the beauty of Sydney harbour. I have seen nothing equal to it in the way of land-locked scenery nothing second to it. Dublin Bay, the Bay of Spezzia, New York, and the Cove of Cork are all picturesquely fine, but they are not equal to Sydney either in shape, in colour, or in variety." Sydney people are proud of their bay, and one of the first questions they ask a visitor is, " Have you seen our bay ? " I was asked that same question over and over again. In Melbourne they ask you, " What do you think of our city ? " Melbourne is proud of its city ; Sydney of its bay ; and I was advised, if I wanted to stand well with the residents of either place, that I must show my appreciation of Melbourne city when in Melbourne, and of Sydney bay when in Sydney. I did express my admiration of both city 68 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. and bay with an enthusiasm which could not fail to satisfy both parties ; not, however, because I wanted to please and flatter them, but because the loveliness of the bay in the one case, and the magnificence of the city in the other, awakened in rne the liveliest feelings of admiration, to which I was not slow to give expression. THE BOTANICAL GARDENS OF SYDNEY. Sydney, like Melbourne, is well supplied with parks and open spaces. The Botanical Gardens are exquisitely beautiful. They run right down to the bay; and as the ground slopes upwards from the water edge to a sufficient height to command a magnificent view of the bay, with its numerous inlets and wooded heights, the situation is one of exceeding beauty. Part of the gardens is laid out in lawns and flower- beds. Part again is devoted to palm trees and tropical plants. Then there are European trees, and trees belonging to tropical climes. There are broad - leaved Moreton Bay fig-trees, the majestic Norfolk Island pines, and many, many others which were all new to me; and, in short, the Botanical Gardens of Sydney is a place to be seen and admired ; it cannot be described at any rate not by such an unpractised pen as mine. And yet, with all the wealth of beauty these gardens show, I felt there was something wanting. There ivere no singing birds. I sought for them ; listened for them ; but I found none heard none. In point of fact, Australia is a silent land. .i:--4''=!,ssK.jj;_-?'*.-. -- /;-. ^] f f THREK CASCADES. KATOMT!'.. N.f.,W. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 8i which allowed me time to visit only some of the more accessible places. However, I was glad of the oppor- tunity to see even a little of a district so famous for its weird and startling scenery. The Blue Mountains at one time formed an almost impassable barrier between Sydney and the rich country beyond. Brave explorers } such as WENT- WQRTH, LAWSON, and others, had, however, proved the practicability of crossing the mountains, and next rough roads were made which permitted the wool- growers of the far interior to convey their wool by bullock-carts over the mountains to the seaboard, and later the zigzag railway was built, which brought the two districts into easy communication with each other. We left Katoomba by an early morning train. The mountains, as seen in the glow of the morning sun- shine, were very beautiful, and there was a soft blue atmospheric haze over them which I suppose has given to these mountains the name they bear. Still, with all the grand and sublime scenery of the Blue Mountains, I am free to confess I like as well the quieter scenery of our humble Cheviot Hills. There is a calm majestic repose about our Cheviots which rests the eye and calms the brain ; whereas the scenery of the Blue Mountains is so startling and awe-inspiring in its character as to excite rather than soothe the nervous system. THE "YELLOW AGONY." I come now to the consideration of one or two questions of a domestic, economic, and social kind, 82 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. which may not, because of their importance, be entirely passed over. There is the Chinese question the "yellow agony," as it is called. On this question the Austra- lian mind is greatly disturbed indeed, and there is a danger of the Australians forgetting, in their dislike to John Chinaman, to treat him with ordinary fair- ness and justice. Already there is a poll-tax of 10 put on every Chinese emigrant, which he must pay before he lands, and this disability it is intended to increase. In Queensland it is proposed to increase the poll-tax to 100, and in New South Wales measures of so drastic a character are contemplated as threaten to create trouble between the British and Chinese Governments. Now, the Chinese are indus- trious and inoffensive, and surely as law-abiding as other citizens. Then, what is the objection to them ? Well, they are charged with working contentedly for little money, and by so doing reducing the value of labour. This brings down on them the wrath of the knights of labour. Again, they are alien in race, in religion, and in habits. It is urged that they do not absorb into the general population as the emigrants of other nations do ; but they remain a distinct people, with customs distinctly their own. Then, they live on rice, save their money, and take it back to China with them, instead of spending it in the country where they make it. Further, they are said to be immoral, which I fear is true ; but whether they are more so than people of other nationalities is open to question. Altogether, a rather formidable indictment is brought THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 83 against the Chinaman. But is there not another side to the picture ? I think there is. The Chinese have, undoubtedly, by their patient industry and general handiness, been useful workers in the colonies in the past. They have been the " hewers of wood and drawers of water," and performed much useful work which the Anglo-Saxon is inclined to shirk. Nothing comes wrong to the Chinaman. He will work at anything if he but get the chance ; and if all I heard of his industry be true, his expulsion from the colonies, although it would be regarded as a gain by the labour unions, will, unquestionably, be a serious loss to the rest of the community. Why, the Chinese, to mention only one thing, are the gardeners of New South Wales; and but for them Sydney would be almost entirely dependent upon other colonies for fruit and vegetables. Where there is so much to be said for and against the admission of the Chinese into the country, it would ill become me a passing visitor to offer a dogmatic opinion on the subject. I will leave to wiser heads than mine the task of finding a solution of the problem ; expressing only my fear that in this Chinese question the Australasian colonies will find no little trouble in the near future. SCARCITY OF SERVANTS. The scarcity of good domestic female servants is a general complaint in the colonies ; and for want of suitable help more than a fair share of domestic care and labour falls upon the lady of the house. Where there is a family of grown-up daughters the burden 84 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. is not felt so much ; but where the children are young and numerous and large families are the rule in Australia the cares of the mother and mistress are proportionately heavy. The outcome of this scarcity of help is that the young ladies of Australia are early initiated into the mysteries of housekeeping, and that without any relinquishing of accomplish- ments either. In one house in Victoria where we visited, the young ladies of the family waited upon us at the dinner-table, and they afterwards played and sans; to us in the drawing-room. Culture and refine- ment were in evidence everywhere in that home ; and I am sure that the young ladies were none the less thought of because they had to their many accom- plishments added that of practical housekeeping. Wages of domestic servants run from 30 a-year for very moderate " helps," up to big figures for experienced servants. Australia certainly offers a fine field for young women seeking service in families. Still, I would not recommend any young woman to go out to Australia unless she has friends at the other side to receive her, and advise her as to her future. Friends, such as relations, or, say, the matrons of institutions, like the Young Women's Christian Association, to whom she should have letters of introduction from known persons, if possible. GERMAN AND AMERICAN ENTERPRISE. I come now to touch upon a matter which is one of considerable gravity for old England. I allude to THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 85 German and American enterprise in the colonies. I was confronted with it everywhere. The agents of these two nations are indefatigable in their efforts to secure the Australian trade, and I have to say very emphatically that if British manu- facturers and merchants do not waken up very considerably, they will find themselves some day supplanted altogether by the German and American traders. It was my privilege to become acquainted with some of the largest buyers in Melbourne. While being conducted through the warehouses of one of these gentlemen, I kept asking him, " Who is the maker of this who is the maker of that ? " and the reply almost invariably was, " Oh, they are German they are American ! " Turning upon him, I said, " Why do you pass the mother country with your orders ? " " Well," he said, " I do not like to send my orders past the old country ; but what can I do ? English manufacturers will not manufacture goods to suit the colonial market." In that answer was to be found the explanation of the whole matter. English makers are too conservative. They do not study the requirements of the colonies, and lay themselves out for the trade. They keep to the old style, the old pattern, when the colonies require something different. What English manufacturers ought to do is this: The principals themselves should, if possible, go out; or, failing that, accredited representatives invested with large powers should be sent out, and these should acquaint themselves thoroughly with the class and pattern of goods which are wanted. Only in some such way as this can we hold our own against 86 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. German and American competition. How formidable that competition is, only those who have been in the colonies can realise. HEARTS AND HOMES. Although I have already made mention of colonial hospitality and kindness, it seems to me that a word or two more on the same subject may not be out of place before saying farewell to the " Land of Sunshine and Gold," and the kind-hearted people whom we met there. It is no ordinary hospitality which visitors from the old country receive in Australia. The people there take you into their hearts as well as their homes. You feel at once that you are a welcome and honoured guest, and all that you have got to do is to quietly concur in your happy surroundings. Who would not go a trip to Australia to be treated like a prince ? I know I would go again if But there, what's the use of wishing ? Wishing is not likely to take me to that sunny land again. The strong affection of the Australians for the mother country I have also alluded to ; their loyalty to the Crown, and the reverential feeling with which they regard the Queen. This feeling pervades all classes, save, perhaps, a few ultra-Republicans, who air their views in the public parks on Sundays, and whom nobody minds. In this warm affection for England I see a bond of union which augurs well for the continuation of that close and intimate association between the colonies and England in the future which THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 87 is the desire of all who have their well-being at heart. In Australia, excepting for the sunshine and the different scenery, it is not easy to realise that you are out of old England. Everything is so very, very home-like. In their dress, habits, and institutions, the Australians are altogether English ; and in their observance of English customs and English holidays the home-likeness is accentuated to a degree at once interesting and remarkable. It may sound paradoxi- cal to say so, but it is a fact we had the feeling that we were going from home when we parted with our generous and open-hearted Australian friends, and sailed away from the wonderful country where we had been treated so well. Yes, our visit to these far-away colonies will abide with us a happy memory as long as we live. It was a pleasant resting-time, brightened with the affection of true friendship, and a hospitality as warm as Australian sunshine. The only drawback was that our stay in the country was short far too short. SYDNEY TO NEW ZEALAND. Here we take leave of the great South Land and pass over to New Zealand. On the evening of the 29th of October, 1886, we left Sydney by the s.s. Tekapo, bound for Wellington and other ports in New Zealand. Our departure furnished an opportunity to our Antipodean friends to give further evidence of colonial kindness, several of them coming down to the steamer to see us off, some 88 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. bringing choice flowers for our acceptance, and all of them bidding us kindly farewells, and wishing us God-speed on our voyage. With a hearty welcome were we received when we landed on Australian soil, and when we left it was with words of kindness ringing in our ears. A PATHWAY OF LIGHT. I never saw water of such a beautiful blue colour as the sea between Australia and New Zealand. It was a rich dark blue, deepening into purple. I never wearied of looking at it, and the voyage of 1,250 miles across that dark blue ocean was incomparably fine. It was here too where I saw the phosphorescence of the sea on a scale of brilliancy I had not witnessed before, either in the Atlantic or Indian Oceans. Our path through the ocean, when the darkness set in, was literally a pathway of light. The lights flashed round the ship as she cleaved her way through the water, and her wake was a long luminous phosphor- escence most beautiful to see. WELLINGTON. Wellington stands at the head of Port Nicholson, a commodious harbour with deep water. It is an enterprising city of 27,000 inhabitants ; and although not the largest, it is really the chief city in New Zealand. The Governor's house is here, as are also the Houses of Parliament, and these constitute advantages which, added to its central position, THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 89 give it an importance to which other cities, such as Auckland, Christchurch, and Dunedin cannot aspire. A VOICE FROM HOME. My wife and I, after having a good look round the town, made our way to the outskirts, and, climbing a moderately- sized hill (and Wellington is environed with hills), which commanded a panoramic view of the town and harbour, we sat down to rest and enjoy the lovely scene spread out before us. As we sat there, talking and thinking of home and friends, an English lark rose out of the grass at our feet. We watched him as with quivering wings he mounted upwards, singing his joyous song of praise. Higher, higher he rose into the blue dome overhead, until he appeared but a tiny dark speck against the blue ; and as he hung " 'twixt earth and sky," flooding the air with song, each familiar note fell on our ears as a voice from home ; and as I kept gazing upwards at that little English songster, I saw visions of green fields and shady lanes and silvery-rippling streams, and somehow a dimness came over my sight and a lump grew in my throat which THE HAWTHORN. You who love the hawthorn blossom and the delicately-tinted lilac bloom, the bonny broom, and the golden gorse blossom, should go to New Zealand if you would see these familiar friends in perfection. When we were in New Zealand they were all in full 90 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. bloom, and the wealth of blossom they bore was simply marvellous. A fertile soil and a favourable climate have made the hawthorn and other bushes thrive to an extent which would be incredible to people who have not visited the country. They were a beautiful and, to us, a specially welcome sight. Going from Lyttleton to Christchurch I noticed in many places that the hedges were of whin or gorse, and as these hedges were one mass of yellow blossom, the green fields were like pictures set in golden frames. The sight was beautiful beyond conception ; but, judged from a practical standpoint, I should say they are not the best kind of hedge for the farmer. They occupy too much ground, and form the finest possible cover for rabbits, which are a plague in New Zealand as well as in Australia. OLD SCOTLAND. As was our custom wherever we went, we visited the Botanical Gardens at Wellington. And here occurred an incident, touching in itself, and illustrat- ing the love of country which is implanted in the heart of every man worthy of his manhood. We met a patriarchal tottering old man in the gardens, and, of course, I entered into conversation with him. Imme- diately he spoke I perceived he came from "Caledonia, stern and wild." After exchanging the usual courtesies, I said, " Well, what part of Scotland do you hail from ? " With a look which meant unutterable things, he replied, " Well, noo, de ye ken a place caa'ed Coldstream ? " THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 91 " Coldstream," I said ; " yes, I was there last year." " Eh ! mon, were ye," he said ; " and de ye ken ony- body i' Coldstream?" and clutching me, he held me in his feeble grasp while he told me all his history, and how it happened that he came out to New Zealand; and when at last I was obliged to break away from him, his last words were, " Eh ! rnon, and ye ken Coldstream ! " The memory of that old man and his eager yearning after his native land haunt me to this day. From Wellington the Tekapo went next to Lyttel- ton, the port for Christchurch ; and here we found the Doric, the vessel which brought us home. Her sail- ing arrangements had been altered ; and fearing that we might not pick her up at her last place of call, we decided, as she was sailing next day, to join her at once. But this upset all the plans we had formed for seeing New Zealand. The licensed porter who transferred our luggage from the Tekapo to the Doric demanded from me five shillings for the job, occupying him ten or fifteen minutes, which I thought a pretty tall charge ; but when he told me he was the father of twenty-two children, I paid the money without a murmur ! CHRISTCHURCH. Christchurch is a pleasant city, and delightfully English in appearance. The public gardens are also very home-like ; English trees are there in abundance, and English birds sing among the branches English flowers grow in rich profusion, in beds and borders, 92 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. delighting the eye and emitting the most delicate perfume. In short, as it appeared to me, the inhabit- ants had made Christchurch and its surroundings as" much like the old country as it was possible to do. I fancied, too, that the people were of a superior class. I thought there was a refinement about them more o than ordinary. We stayed in Christchurch all night, just to enjoy the luxury of sleeping in a bed which did not rock, before we entered upon our six or seven weeks of ship life. " Rocked in the cradle of the deep " may sound pretty, but most people I fancy would prefer the quiet of their own chambers to being rocked asleep on the rolling deep, and especially if the winds were holding high revel about the ship, shrieking and howling as I have heard them do. The next day the Doric left Lyttelton for Napier in the North Island. Our course lay along the coast, and we had charming views of the Kaikoura moun- tains, whose snow-clad peaks towered up 9,000 to 10,000 feet high. We also passed many places quite familiar to me by name, through reading Captain COOK'S travels in my boyhood days. After rounding Cape Kidnapper, we were not long in reaching our anchorage outside the harbour of Napier, which cannot be entered by large vessels, on account of a bar of shingle. THE FROZEN MEAT TRADE. We lay here three days taking on board 10,000 car- cases of frozen mutton, which was in repeated trips THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 93 brought to the Doric by a little steamer called the Why Not. This trade in frozen meat is assuming consider- able proportions, and gives promise of vast development in the future. The Doric carried home on this trip 25,400 carcasses of mutton, besides large quantities of frozen beef ; and as the Shaw-Saville line to which she belongs runs monthly steamers, and there are other lines of steamers engaged in the business as well, you may judge from this fact what an important trade it has already become. Each carcass is wrapped up in a calico bag, and the meat is frozen so hard that, if struck with a hammer, the hammer rebounds as from an anvil. The mutton costs about l|d. per ib delivered alongside ; the freight home costs l^d. more; and thus splendid mutton is delivered into London Docks for 3d. per Ib, or there- abouts. A NOVEL MODE OF TRANSIT. Naturally we were anxious to go on shore to have a look at the town, but the sea was unpleasantly lumpy, causing the little Why Not to fairly dance in the water ; and the deck of the Doric was so high that to go down the rope-ladder and drop on to the deck of the Why Not was more than our courage would allow. How, then, were we to get on board the little steamer to take us to the town ? " Where there's a will there's a way," says the old proverb. We went down in a mutton sack. " A mutton sack," you say ; " pray explain ?" Well, understand, please, that the carcasses of mutton were placed in large sacks and hoisted on board the Doric by the steam crane. So we were 94 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. packed four of us into a clean mutton sack, and then very carefully lowered by the ship's crane to the deck of the Why Not. It was not, I admit, a dignified way of passing from one ship to another, but it was pre-eminently safe, and it had this advantage also we got down to the little steamer without a wetting. NAPIER. Napier is a small town of about 5,000 inhabitants, and a very dusty place. It is built on what I took to be limestone rock, which crumbles into a fine powdered dust, and the least breeze blows it about most unpleasantly. It gets into your eyes, and ears, and nose, and mouth, and down your neck, and soils your collar, and whitens your hat, and, in short, tries your temper terribly. Napier, notwithstanding all this, is rather a pretty place trees and flowers grow luxuriantly everywhere, and nearly every house we saw was gay with creeping plants and flowers ; and where a town is thus adorned with trees and flowers it cannot fail to look attractive. The little Why Not brought us back to the Doric. The mutton sack was let down, and into it we meekly stepped. The order was given to hoist away, and the next moment we were dangling in mid-air, all jumbled together. Another moment and we found ourselves carefully deposited on the deck of the Doric, with several willing hands helping to release us from our patent passenger-lift Within ten minutes of the time when the last carcass of mutton was lifted on board we weighed THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 95 anchor, and the Doric steamed away to "Wellington, her last port of call, and that port we left on the 13th November for the long homeward voyage by way of Cape Horn, hoping that we should arrive safely in old England before Christmas Day. OLD ENGLAND OVER AGAIN. It was a matter of great disappointment to me that we saw so little of New Zealand, for it is, admittedly, one of the finest countries in the world. The little I did see of it made me greatly desire to see more. It is a land of mountains and streams, of rich valleys and extensive plains, and the scenery is almost English in its character. You have in New Zealand the delicate greenery which makes our English fields so beautiful ; and were I asked to put into one sentence a descrip- tion of New Zealand, I should say, " It is old England over again, only grander, with sunnier skies, and an infinitely better climate." For Europeans, and especially Englishmen, New Zealand has much to recommend it as a place of resi- dence. It receives abundant sunshine, but is not too hot. It has a sufficient rainfall, but is not too wet. In this beautiful adjustment of Nature's forces New Zealand is favoured above most lands ; and I know of no country whose climate would be found more suitable for the European than that of New Zealand. The luxuriant growth of tree and plant life in New Zealand is simply marvellous. Trees blossom and plants flower out there with a vigour and richness of 96 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. colour unknown in this colder clime of ours. Apropos of this, I may repeat what I was told by a thoroughly trustworthy gentleman with whom I conversed on the subject. He said in Te Arora, in the North Island, he stood beside a camelia bush (growing in the open air, of course), where the ground underneath was covered three inches deep with the petals of the fallen flowers such had been the extraordinary wealth of blossom it had borne. This statement caused me no surprise, for I had seen enough myself of the luxuriant blossoming of flower-bearing plants in New Zealand to prepare me for a statement like this, wonderful as it may appear to be. HOMEWARD BOUND. The voyage home occupied forty days, including brief stoppages at Rio and Tenerifle. Our ship, the Doric, was sister-ship to the Coptic, in which we made the passage out, and a finer sea-boat was never built. Her commander was Captain JENNINGS, who looked, and was, the beau-ideal of a naval officer. Seventy summers or more had passed over his head, turning his hair to grey, but otherwise time had dealt gently with him. He was as vigorous and active as a man of fifty. He had an eye like an eagle, a voice of trumpet power, and an experience of the sea extend- ing over nearly sixty years. In appearance he was rather like Mr. GLADSTONE, whom he hated like poison. He was a Tory of the old school, and regarded GLADSTONE as the embodiment of wicked- ness. I soon found this out ; and many were the THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 97 times, I am sorry to confess, I led him gently on to the hated subject just to see him fire up, with flashing eye and heightened colour, at the bare mention of a name which roused him as a red rag is said to excite a bull. It was very wrong of me, I know ; but then remember we were forty days at sea. I pass onward to give a very, very brief account of the homeward voyage. ICEBERGS. On the fourth day out we sighted our first iceberg. It seemed small at first, but as we approached nearer it assumed large proportions. At a moderate com- putation, it was 300 feet high, and extended over acres of sea. Now, that iceberg was at least twice as big below as above the water-line for one-third above and two-thirds below the water was given me, as a rule, applying to icebergs so you may judge what an enormous mass of ice that berg would be. Of course, this iceberg interested us greatly. It was gazed at, talked about, and it was sketched as well. I made a drawing of it ; and to make sure that my sketch was not taken for something else, I wrote across the face of the iceberg, "This is an iceberg," and over the water below I inscribed, "This is the sea." I took to sketching many things after that ; always, however, taking the precaution to label the subjects as I had done the iceberg. The icebercr I have mentioned was the forerunner 98 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. of many. For the next four days they kept appear- ing every now and then, together with enormous quantities of floe ice. We were evidently sailing through a current which brought them from the Polar Seas. Many of the bergs were of immense size, some of them of most fantastic shape ; and when, as sometimes happened, the sun shone on them and revealed here and there prismatic colours, mingled with the dazzling whiteness, they were most beautiful objects to look upon. All the same, they were un- desirable neighbours. I could see they caused our captain considerable anxiety, especially when, during two days, we had foggy weather. He scarcely ever left the bridge day or night. The look-out was doubled a man was placed on the extreme bows of the ship to watch for partially submerged ice, and all round the most vigilant watch was kept. In talking with Captain JENNINGS afterwards about the foggy weather, he said he cared little for the wildest storm if he had a good ship under him and plenty of sea room ; but " fog," he said, shaking his head, "fog is a different matter." We suffered a good deal from the cold in these latitudes. My wife and I had been advised before leaving England to take plenty of cool garments with us on account of the heat in the Tropics ; but we should have been warned to take plenty of warm clothes as well. You need both warm and cool cloth- ing when you go a voyage round the world. As it was, we were not well provided for the severely cold weather we experienced before we rounded Cape Horn. The warmest place was the smoke-room, which THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 99 was extra-heated with hot-water pipes, and yet, dressed in Cardigan jacket, overcoat, and a shawl wrapped round my legs and feet, I could not keep myself warm even there. A fortnight later so swiftly do these fast steamers carry you along I was glad to cool myself in the coldest bath obtain- able, the temperature of which was 80 degrees. Nothing cooler was possible, because that -was the temperature of the sea. On November the 26th land was descried. As we approached nearer, we made out the outlines of the mountains white and clear against a back- ground of cold grey-blue sky. A little later and we were abreast of Cape Horn itself, of which we had heard so much. On the whole, our voyage from New Zealand to Cape Horn had been a fairly pleasant one ; still it was with a feeling of satisfaction that we rounded the Horn, where shrieking winds and angry waves are the usual welcome which awaits the mariner who invades its solitudes, and found ourselves once more on the broad Atlantic. With the exception of one day, we now enjoyed delightful weather all the way to Rio de Janeiro ; and this part of the homeward voyage was charming. We had lovely days, closing with gorgeous sunsets, and nights when "Up the unclouded sky The glorious moon pursued her path of light, And shed her silv'ry splendour far and nigh." Ah ! those days, so bright, so beautiful ! I shall ioo THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. never forget them. And those star-gemmed, moon- lit nights how bright they were; so full of peace and a something indescribable: an influence at once elevating and mellowing, which one felt but could not put into words. Rio BAY AND CITY. On the 4th of December we reached Rio. Having previously instructed my bedroom steward, he roused me up at four o'clock in the morning that I might see the Doric enter one of the finest, and, in the opinion of many travellers, the finest harbour in the world. The entrance is guarded by forts on either side, beyond the line of which the Doric was not permitted to go until the Medical Inspector for the Port had certified that we were free from sickness of an infectious nature. What a bewildering picture was disclosed as we entered that matchless harbour ! On its broad bosom hundreds of ships were afloat, and beautiful islands displaying the richest tropical vegetation lay like gems on its waters. Noble mountains, forest-clad to their summits, encircled the bay, and at their feet lay the city, with its white buildings clustering on the shores and spreading up the sides of the lower hills till they were lost amid the rich foliage beyond. It was a scene of beauty calculated to stir the coldest imagination and arouse it to an enthusiastic admiration. Over it all hung a canopy of blue, out of which shone the brilliant sun, gilding the whole with his glory. THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 101 We had no sooner anchored than the coal barges came alongside, and coaling with all its discomforts commenced. It was a sight to see the army of coal- carriers. There were Portuguese, Brazilians, and negroes, all in scanty costumes, as many-coloured as they were ragged. Each carried his own little basket, which, in shape and size, was like a lady's sun straw bonnet. And are these men, I said to myself, with their ridiculous little baskets going to coal the ship ? Preposterous ! Leaving them at work, we went off to see the city of Rio de Janeiro. Our boatman was either a Brazilian or Portuguese. His costume was light and airy a pair of blue cotton trousers and a shirt comprising his full suit. He hoisted a small square sail, got out his oars, and soon we were bowling merrily across the two or three miles of water which lay between the Doric and the shore. Pleasantly that boatman talked to us all the way. Not one word we understood ; but we smiled back it was all that we could do and he looked supremely happy. When we landed we under- stood from his signs that he would wait and take us back to the Doric ; and sure enough, when we returned to the landing-place many hours later, there was our boatman waiting, ready to carry us back. From where we landed we were obliged to pass through the market, a place which our thoughtful captain had warned us to avoid. In it were exposed for sale fruits of many kinds, the produce of a tropical climate ; also parrots and other birds of brilliant plumage, monkeys, guinea-pigs, large pigs, dogs, puppies, and I know not what else, the whole being 102 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. watched over by a motley company of sellers some Brazilians, some Jews, some Portuguese, some niggers, and some whose nationality would have puzzled even a Darwin. We did not linger there, for the atmo- sphere of the place was not such as suited the olfactory nerves of English folk. The streets of Rio are narrow, built so purposely on account of the heat. The houses for the most part are painted white and other light colours ; and as trees grow wherever there is room, you may imagine how very picturesque in appearance the city is. A LOVELY FLORAL SCENE. After the ladies had had a good look at the shops, we resolved to go to see the Botanical Gardens. But such a getting there as we had ! We knew no Spanish, no Portuguese, and our English, even when accom- panied by signs and vigorous gesticulations, was not understood. Somehow we got the people to com- prehend at last where we wished to go ; and after many adventures and a few mishaps we succeeded in the end in getting to the Gardens we were so anxious to see. Ah me ! those gardens ! No words can convey an idea of their gorgeous magnificence. Such richness of colour, such luxuriance, such density of foliage ! Enraptured, speechless, I could only look on and admire the wondrous scene. It was so different from anything I had seen before, or even dreamed of. The crowning beauty of all was the Avenue of Imperial Palms. These noble trees grew straight up THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 103 two hundred feet or more without a bend, or single branch, or tuft, until the top of the tree was reached, when a crown of foliage was thrown out to complete the graceful structure. If you can imagine the lovely scene which these gardens presented, and then add to the picture a magnificent background of lofty hills draped with the rich foliage of tropical trees and plants giving completeness to the whole subject, you will be able to realise a little of the exceeding beauty of the Rio Botanical Gardens. A STARTLING BILL OF COSTS. In this work-a-day world of ours we must eat and drink. We cannot live on lovely scenes, however much they may delight us. And being urged on by certain inward cravings, we at last turned away from the contemplation of the charms of the place and went in search of something to eat. We found a restaurant just outside the gardens kept by a Spaniard. He could not understand us ; no more could we com- prehend him. We, however, overcame this little difficulty by going into his larder and selecting the food we wanted. There were four of us Captain ISMAY and his wife, and my wife and myself. After we had satisfied the aforesaid cravings with some cold roast fowl, we signified our wish to pay for what we had eaten. The bland, bowing proprietor came forward and presented his bill. Nine thousand ries. What, nine thousand ries ! Never ! We looked at the bill, and then at each other, in blank amazement. 104 T HE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. Nine thousand ries ! Where was the money to come from ? Could the man be mad ? And yet, looking at him, he appeared to be of sound mind, and harm- less. What was to be done ? There stood that smiling Spaniard waiting for his money. If we had been nearer the ship we might have run for it ; but the Doric was miles away. However, something would have to be done. We could not stand there gaping and speechless. So we began to make sundry frantic gestures, pointing to the bill all the time ; and then our host, honest man, evidently divining the cause of our perplexity, brought us a table of foreign moneys, and after a few rapid calculations we discovered that the dreadful bill meant eighteen shillings in English money, which we at once paid, and again breathed freely. Rio MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. We saw much in Rio to interest us, which, by the way, is a city of 400,000 inhabitants. The people interested us ; there was such variety of type and race every colour from white to black was represented. We were interested, too, in the foreign ways and customs of the people; their dress was different, their habits were different, everything was different from what we had been accustomed to, and it all looked so strange in our English eyes ! Amongst the many strange sights we saw in Rio was a funeral. The car, which was open at the sides, was lined out with a pink material which I took to be satin. The coffin itself was covered with pink THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 105 cloth. There was not anything that was sombre- looking either about the car or the coffin, and even the harness trimmings of the horses were bright and shining. It seemed very strange to me, for a brighter looking equipage could not well have been designed. Yet, thought I, these foreigners may perhaps, after all, take a better view of what is appropriate in the obsequies of the dead than we English do. Is not pink chosen by them because of its cheerful and pleasant colour, and therefore emblematic of hope for their friend departed ? It struck me so. On our return to the ship I looked round at once to see how the work of coaling was progressing, when I found, to my great surprise, that the picturesque crew with the ridiculous little baskets had filled all the bunkers, and were already on their way back to the city. "THE ANCHOR'S WEIGHED." Between nine and ten o'clock in the evening we weighed anchor and steamed slowly out of the lovely bay, the forts firing guns as we passed out, as signals to each other that there was nothing suspicious about the Doric, and that she might be allowed to proceed on her voyage. A more beautiful sight than Kio at night, viewed from the bay, it would be difficult to find. The city lights, commencing at the water edge and extending far up the mountain sides, produced a wonderful effect, more like a fairy scene than anything else. I remained on deck watching until distance blotted out the last li^ht from view. io6 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. PASSING SHIPS. The course the Doric held from Rio to Teneriffe was in the direct track of ships going south. We met and saluted quite a large number. Several we spoke with who desired to be reported on the Dorics arrival in England. Englishman-like, I was proud to note that the great majority of the vessels carried the British flag. Britannia is still mistress of the seas ! A CAPTAIN'S YARNS. The weather while we were within the Tropics was fine, but undeniably warm. Active exertion was out of the question, and we just reclined in our deck- chairs and enjoyed doing nothing. Our gallant captain would occasionally join us and tell us a story weather seemed to have no effect on him and his stories were always welcome. We preferred his own personal recollections when we could induce him to relate them, but, like all modest men, he was not easily drawn on to speak of himself. Without his permission (for he is not here to ask it) I venture to repeat two of his stories which I believe were real experiences : STORY I. Many years ago, he said, when he was captain of a sailing ship, his vessel sprang a leak, and the water made so fast on them that it was as much as the crew could do with all pumps going to prevent it gaining the mastery. Worn out with THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 107 watching and superintending, he lay down to snatch a few minutes' sleep. Soon he was asleep and dreaming. In his dream he saw the exact spot where the leak was. On waking he immediately went straight to the spot indicated in his dream, and there, sure enough, he found the leak which threatened to sink the ship. All the searching before had failed to reveal the place where the mischief was. That dream, he finished by saying, saved the ship. STORY II. Also, when he was master of a sailer a long time ago, his vessel was becalmed in the Tropics. To while away the time the sailors commenced to fish for sharks. They caught a large one, and on its being opened there was found in the shark's maw a newspaper addressed to himself a most curious circumstance surely. And now for the ex- planation. On this particular voyage the master had his wife and little daughter with him ; the latter, childlike, was fond of throwing things out the cabin port-hole ; and this paper which he had brought on board with him and had not had time to open, she must have pitched out. The shark evi- dently had been following the ship to seize hold of anything thrown overboard, and had, amongst other things, picked up the newspaper with his London address upon it. On the 10th December we crossed the line in splendid weather, very different from what we had in crossing on the outward voyage. On the 16th we passed out of the Tropics. Early the following morning we approached the island of Teneriffe. io8 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. THE PEAK OF TENERIFFE IN EARLY SUNLIGHT. I rose very early to witness the rising of the sun. Before it appeared above the sea, the sky was illu- minated with all the colours of the rainbow, and as the sun climbed above the water all these colours were gradually blended into one gold. It was a splendid spectacle. By this time the Doric was slowly steaming up to her anchorage, and we had a splendid view of the island and its towering peak. The Peak in the early sunlight was bathed in crimson and gold, and as the lower mountains were not yet touched by the rays of golden sunlight, but lay in darkest shade, the illumined peak stood out distinct and clear, a magnificent and imposing object. All on deck were impressed with the glorious scene. The only sounds heard were occasional ejaculations of surprise and delight from some of the passengers ; but for the most part we were silent. The Great Artist was at work, and we gazed upon His handi- work in silence. AN UNPLEASANT EXPERIENCE. Boats from Santa Cruz ran alongside the Doric immediately she came to an anchorage, bringing letters from home; and those of my readers who have been months away from home and those they love will understand how greedily we devoured these messengers from across the seas. Having read and re-read our letters, we entered one of the small boats plying for custom and went ashore. Santa Cruz I THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. 109 have before spoken of, and need not, therefore, occupy time by describing it again. I mention the fact of our trip ashore more for the purpose of relating the ugly experience we had in returning to the ship than for any other reason. A strong wind had sprung up, causing a nasty lumpy sea. There were nine of us, besides two boatmen and a boy to steer, in the boat which took us back. The boat pitched and lurched heavily, and it was only by keeping her end on to the waves that we escaped swamping. The boatmen watched the waves as they came rolling alongside, and rowed accordingly. Sometimes both of them pulled, and at other times one pulled and the other sunk his oar deep into the water and held on with all his might. However, in spite of all their efforts one wave at length came right over the boat, and these Spanish boatmen, instead of holding on to their oars and keeping the boat straight, sprang to their feet and bullied the poor lad who was steering. How we escaped being swamped was more than a wonder it was providential. On resuming their seats, these Spanish boatmen still continued to scold the lad, ay, all the way to the ship; and if angry looks meant anything they were ready to take his life, for his want of skill, I suppose. The fear I had was, how shall we get on board the Doric with such a heavy sea running and such excitable men to manage the boat ? We ran along- side all right they managed that part of their work splendidly ; but the difficulty was to get from the boat to the gangway steps of the Doric. Sometimes the boat was right up above, and then 8 no THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. far below the steps, as she was pitched up and down on the 86% rendering it exceedingly dangerous to pass to the ship. We kept dodging the waves for some time, making attempts to jump on to the steps; but it was all of no use until the chief officer came to tV rescue. Our excitable boatmen respected his authority. Be made them attend to their boat and it only; and each time that she rose on a suitable wave he seized one of us, and we were, one by one, bodily lifted out of the boat and planted on the gangway. When we got on deck we were all of one mind, and that was that we should not be in a hurry to go ashore again when voyaging, unless the ship lay alongside a wharf. STEAMING FOB HOME. At two o'clock in the afternoon the Doric, with a wind in her favour, left the roadstead and away for "home." How active the sailors were in unfurling the sails, and bow blithely they sang their favourite nautical songs as they went about their work! The thought of spending Christmas at home with wife and children or friends acted like magic, and with redoubled vigour they applied them- selves to their duties. In the evening we had a gorgeous sunset. The glowing orb set a little to the right of the peak, and as it disappeared below the sea it left behind it a brilliant orange-coloured sky, which formed a charm- ing background to the mountain. Under such a light the peak stood out sharp and dear, and long after the THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD, in sun had gone down it could be seen with a distinct- ness remarkable in its intensity. After this we had rough weather nearly all the way to England. When the weather was at its worst the engines had to be slowed down, and then were we filled with fears that, after all, we might reach Plymouth too late to get home for Christmas. We watched the barometer and studied the skies with an eagerness which we had never shown or felt before. Those officers whom we thought to be weather-wise were waylaid by us at every tarn, and we plied them with the same questions as to the prospects of a change in the weather over and over again, and they, kind-hearted fellows that they were, always prophesied smooth things. Still the weather did not improve, but rather got worse. We passed the warship Monarch, disabled in her machinery, who signalled us to report her condition at Plymouth; and although our anxiety to get on was great, yet when our captain offered to stand by her in case of need we were glad and felt proud of our captain, and proud, too, of ourselves, as if we had something to do with the offer. Her commander, however, elected to make for Lisbon under canvas, and we proceeded on our home- ward course, battling with winds and waves. CHRISTMAS AT ouit OWN FIRESIDE. Our chances of spending Christmas at home were now becoming fainter and fainter, but just as our hopes had fallen to below zero and we were trying to reconcile ourselves to the disappointment which ii2 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. seemed inevitable, a change for the better took place. At eight o'clock on the evening of the 20th December (I noted the time particularly) the wind shifted a point or two in our favour, when the main and mizen try-sails were run up, the engines were put on full speed, and soon we were rushing through the water at a speed which revived our drooping spirits, and again we hoped to spend Christmas with our friends at home. Merrily we went along. What cared we for the seas which occasionally pooped us ; for were we not pressing on fast towards the " tight little island " we were all so anxious to reach, albeit snow and frost might await us on our arrival ? Thus we sped on, and, to bring my story to a close, we arrived at Plymouth at ten o'clock of the evening of the 22nd December, and Christmas-Eve we spent at our own fireside. And so ended our trip round the world, including a brief sojourn in the " Land of Sunshine and Gold ! " THE END. Printed by WALTER SCOTT, Felling, Xeu-castle-upon-Tyne. KRRATUM. Illustration, p. 24. For SILVER FALLS, FERN TREE GULLY, VICTORIA. ,''>/ SILVER FALLS, FERN TREE GULLY, TASMANIA. Ct'NBKAL >>''>S7 Oi-FirK. MKl IK'I'RNF. ii2 THE LAND OF SUNSHINE AND GOLD. seemed inevitable, a change for the better took place. At eight o'clock on the evening of the 20th December (I noted the time particularly) the wind shifted a point or two in our favour, when the main and mizen try-sails were run up, the engines were put on full ot-,oQ/l anrl enrm XVP WATA nishino 1 through tll6 Water THE END. Printed by WALTER SCOTT, Felling, Xewcastle-v.pon-Tyne. Ct'NBRAL POST OKKICK. MI'I HC v i I \ SCENE IN FERS-THE1 Ul't.LY. VICTORIA. THE GIANT TREE OF VICTORIA Eucalyptus Amygdalina. 1 A 000 095 979