SANTA FE R. R. 
 
 OFF THE 
 BEATEN PATH 
 
 BANCROFT 
 
University of California Berkeley 
 
For additional information about Southwest scenic attractions consult 
 following publications, issued by the Santa Fe Railway: 
 
 " Old-New Santa Fe and Roundabout," '* Haunts of Primitive Man," 
 " Grand Canyon Outings," " Petrified Forest of Arizona." 
 
 Free copies sent on request. Ask any Santa Fe agent about round-trip 
 excursion fares to New Mexico and Arizona. 
 
 W. J. BLACK, PasF. Traffic Mgr., A. T. & S. F. Ry. 
 1118 Railway Exchange, Chicago, 111. 
 
 parn 
 
 'in Key Mexico 
 and Artzo 
 
OFF THE BEATEN PATH IN NEW MEXICO AND ARIZONA 
 
 This is both the oldest and the newest 
 region in the United States. Here the 
 Spaniards came in 1540. Before that tinv\ 
 dating back a thousand years or more, popu- 
 lous Indian pueblos topped the heights. 
 Both the Mexican and the Indian life modi- 
 fied, of course exists to-day, side by side 
 with that of the up-to-date American. 
 
 A mile or more above the sea, the summer 
 air always is pure and cool. 
 
 An ideal country for unusual outings. 
 
 TO BEGIN WITH. 
 
 The Santa Fc Railway takes you through the Southwest 
 Enchanted Land. From car windows of the flying train you 
 may see many strange sights. Here is an Indian pueblo of 
 to-day, peopled by a brown race whose ancestors have lived 
 in this same place for centuries. Near by are ruins of prehis- 
 toric pueblos, aged, thousands of years. Over yonder is a 
 petrified forest, aeons old. Criss-crossing the plateau are 
 narrow clefts of profound depth. Painted deserts, rainbow- 
 colored, delight the eye. Great pine forests clothe the higher 
 altitudes. The plants are of unfamiliar species. The trees 
 are different from back East. Herds of cattle and flocks of 
 sheep browse on the succulent grasses. Cowboys and sheep 
 herders everywhere are in evidence. Sunset and afterglow 
 take on a new meaning, and at night the sky is alive with stars 
 which appear almost to touch the earth. 
 
 It is a land of wide spaces and brilliant colors. 
 
 If you stop off between trains at some station en route, the 
 close-at-hand view discloses other objects of interest. You 
 become better acquainted with this new environment. A day 
 at Laguna and Acoma pueblos, another day at the Petrified 
 Forest or old Santa Fe, two or three days at Grand Canyon 
 they are well worth while. 
 
 But, to get at the real heart of the Southwest, you must 
 leave the railway behind and take to the open country. If 
 time is no object, and you like to rough it, engage saddle and 
 pack horses for a long camping trip. That's the leisurely 
 way. .Or, if in more of a hurry, and willing to pay the extra 
 price, hire an auto and compress three days of ordinary 
 journeying into one. Each method has its advantages. Often 
 the two can be combined. 
 
 Very good, you say ; but how is one to know the best places 
 to visit, time required, accommodations, cost, etc.? 
 
 The Santa Fe passenger department recently has had an 
 expert investigation made of facilities offered by local con- 
 cerns, catering to this class of travel. Nearly every trip men- 
 tioned has been taken by an experienced Santa Fe employe, 
 with instructions to report facts as they are. Those not thus 
 personally tried out have been carefully looked into. While 
 not guaranteeing accommodations noted herein, they are be- 
 lieved to be accurately stated. 
 
 You are invited to try one of these trips. Only by getting 
 off the beaten path can you really know the Southwest. And 
 you will have had a unique outing of the pioneer sort. 
 
 The best times to go are late spring, summer and early fall 
 say from May to October, inclusive. Yet winter has its own 
 charm, even if one can not move around so freely. 
 
 TRIPS ROUNDABOUT OLD SANTA FE. 
 
 In a setting that antedates Babylon, and under Moorish 
 skies, this bit of the Orient called La Ciudad Real de la Santa 
 Fe de San Francisco (the True City of the Holy Faith of St. 
 Francis), located out in the New Mexico Rockies, invites the 
 traveler searching for new scenes, confident that the city itself 
 and the region roundabout will well repay a long sojourn. 
 
 Santa Fe was founded in 1606 by one of the Spanish con- 
 quistadores on the ruins of two Indian pueblos, in a land 
 where once flourished the prehistoric cliff dwellers. 
 
 The Santa Fe of to-day is part old, part new. It is a city 
 of about 8,000 inhabitants, a mixture of Americans and Mex- 
 icans, with a few Indians from the neighboring pueblos. It 
 lies nearly a mile and a half above the sea, on a plateau 
 rimmed by peaks 13,000 feet high. It is the immemorial cap- 
 ital of New Mexico and reached by a short branch line of 
 the Santa Fe Railway from Lamy. Two other railroads also 
 link it with the outside world. 
 
 Here the visitor may see the venerable Plaza, where Onate 
 first set up the banner of Spain, and where General Kearny 
 planted the Stars and Stripes in 1846. The Old Palace is the 
 most ancient governmental building in the United States. The 
 Cathedral was begun in 1612. San Miguel Church dates back 
 to 1607. A monument on the plaza commemorates the ter- 
 minus of the old Santa Fe Trail. 
 
 Everywhere are narrow, winding streets, lined with low 
 adobes, where live dark-skinned Mexicans, descendants of 
 the Spaniards who once owned all this land. These soft- 
 voiced people closely affiliate with the gringo. They frankly 
 enjoy the new ways autos, electric lights, and the like 
 while clinging to old customs in dress and religion. They are 
 loyal American citizens and good neighbors. 
 
 The more modern sections have up-to-date hotels, business 
 blocks, schools and churches. Public buildings are many and 
 costly. Most of the private residences recently built conform 
 to what is known as the Santa Fe type of architecture one- 
 story adobes. In coming here the stranger finds every com- 
 fort alongside absolutely primitive surroundings. That's the 
 chief charm of this remarkable little city. 
 
 This part of New Mexico is a sunny land, high and dry, 
 with air that invigorates an ideal place for outdoor life. 
 Late spring, summer and early fall are the best seasons to 
 go there. 
 
 Santa Fe is the center of what has been called the most 
 wonderful fifty-mile-square in America. Where else can you, 
 in a day's journey, reach Indian pueblos and Mexican villages, 
 cliff dwellings and prehistoric ruins, the haunts of the bear 
 and mountain lion, snow-clad peaks and trout streams? 
 Where else can you motor like the wind over smooth high- 
 ways, or follow the hounds after wild game, or take long camp- 
 ing trips on horseback with pack outfit? Where else is the 
 Wild West wilder or the Romantic West more romantic? 
 Where can you see more strange sights in a given time? 
 
 Fortunately the way of the traveler is made easy. The 
 Rocky Mountain Camp Co., E. J. Ward, Manager, Santa Fe, 
 N. M., cares for those who wish to fare forth into the coun- 
 try roundabout. A condensed description of service provided 
 follows : 
 
Map of 
 
 TOURIST REGION 
 Vicinity of Santa Fe, N.M. 
 
 _Red lines indicate principal 
 Outing trips by auto^eam and saddle pack 
 
 .,- Cffttro Off. 
 
 NORTH 
 
SIDE TRIPS BY AUTO. 
 
 The Rocky Mountain Camp Co., Erwin J. Ward, Mgr., 
 Santa Fe, N. M., announces the following trips by auto or 
 saddle horses and pack, Nos. i to 14, inclusive : 
 
 No. 1. Santa Fe to Frijoles Canyon. 
 
 Go and return one day. Distance, 72 miles, round trip. 
 
 Route, via Ayua Fria and Buck-man. 
 
 Fare, $30 for party of six or less in six-passenger auto with chauffeur, 
 or $26 for party of four or less in four-passenger auto with chauffeur. 
 Only light baggage carried. 
 
 Meals, extra for party, noon lunch at Abbott's ranch, 76 cents and $1 
 each. 
 
 Regular daily auto trips during tourist season (June to September, 
 inclusive), fare $6.26 per passenger; at other times by special arrange- 
 ment. 
 
 NOTE. For stay over night, returning to Santa Fe next day, making 
 a two days' trip, the additional auto fare for entire party will be $17.50 
 for six-passenger car and $15.00 for four-passenger car, plus lodging 
 and meals at Abbott's, $2.50 each person. 
 
 The Rio Grande crossing at Buckman bridge, the three- 
 mile crawl up the old lumber road to Pajarito Plateau, also 
 the ride in and out of Water and Ancho canyons, are out of 
 the ordinary. 
 
 The Canyon of El Rito de los Frijoles (Little River of the 
 Beans) is one of several short gorges that deeply cut the 
 high Pajarito Plateau on the west bank of the Rip Grande. 
 Noted for its remarkable ruins of fifteen prehistoric villages 
 on the floor of the valley ; of these the most important is 
 Tyu-onyi, an old community house of several hundred rooms. 
 The Ceremonial Cave, 150 feet above the stream, and reached 
 by ladders, is one of the hundreds of side wall caves in the 
 volcanic tufa. 
 
 Judge Abbott's ranch resort, House of the Ten Alders, pro- 
 vides home comforts. 
 
 Near the mouth of the canyon the Rito leaps over ledges 
 almost 160 feet high, forming two exquisite waterfalls. 
 
 Because of the archaelogical features of the Rito de los 
 Frijoles, the United States Government has set it aside as the 
 Bandelier National Monument. In the caves of the Rito have 
 been found some two hundred frescoes. 
 
 No. 2. Santa Fe to Tschiregei- Tsankawi and 
 _, Otowi. 
 
 Round trip in one day. Distance, 70 miles, round trip. 
 
 Route, via Agua Fria and Buckman. 
 
 Fare, $30 for party of six or less in six-passenger auto with chauffeur, 
 or $25 for party of four or less in four-passenger auto with chauffeur. 
 
 Meals, extra for party; noon basket lunch, 50 cents each. Light bag- 
 gage only. 
 
 These three, large communal ruins are in Pajarito Park, on 
 west bank of Rio Grande. Tschirege is the nearest, being 27 
 miles from Santa Fe by road and located on Ramon Vigil 
 grant. Tsankawi and Otowi are included in the Bandelier 
 National Monument. At Otowi important excavations re- 
 cently have been made by the Commercial Museum of Phila- 
 delphia. 
 
 Tschirege stands on the point of a mesa whose cliff faces 
 contain rock-hewn caves. It includes the ruins of a com- 
 munal house of a thousand rooms, and is almost inaccessible 
 except by the Stairway of the Plumed Serpent. This ruin 
 was one of the first to be partly excavated by Dr. Edgar L. 
 Hewett, of the School of American Research. It is on the 
 Ramon Vigil grant of 30,000 acres, owned by a group of 
 Detroit automobile manufacturers, who maintain a clubhouse. 
 
 Otowi, too, was first excavated by Dr. Hewett and the col- 
 lection taken from it is one of the priceless heritages of the 
 National Museum at Washington, D. C. Reputed by tradi- 
 tion to be the ancestral home, twelve centuries ago, of a clan 
 of the present Tewa Indians, who now live only eight miles 
 away. Here may be seen the broken food-bowls, children's 
 plaything's of stone and pottery, and stone implements of the 
 men, scattered around the excavated, crumbled homes of a 
 once proud, virile race. 
 
 Not far from Otowi is Los Alamos Ranch Outdoor School 
 for Boys, conducted by Mr. Ashley Pond, where boys twelve 
 to sixteen years old are given the benefits of outdoor life 
 while getting an education. 
 
 Tsankawi is one of the most spectacular of the community 
 houses, located on a high mesa reached by trails worn deeply 
 into the rock. At all three sites, the sides of the cliffs are 
 lined with nntural and made caves, occupied in pre-Spanish 
 times by the Cliff Dwellers. 
 
 Ancient Kiva In Ceremonial Cave, Frijoles Canyon. 
 7 
 
 Prehistoric Stone Tents at Otowi. 
 8 
 
No. 3. Santa Fe to Tesuque, San Juan and Santa 
 Clara. 
 
 No. 4. Santa Fe to Puye. 
 
 Santa C 
 San Juan 
 
 Out and back in one day. Distance, 78 miles, round trip. 
 
 Route, going via Tesuque, Pojoaque, Santa Cruz and Espanola; return- 
 ing via San lldefonso and Buckman. 
 
 Fare, $30 for party of six in six-passenger auto, with chauffeur, or 
 $25 for party of four or less in four-passenger auto with chauffeur. 
 
 Meals, extra for party; noon lunch at El Onate Hotel, Espanola, 50 
 cents each. Light baggage only. 
 
 NOTE. Ample stops at Tesuque, San Juan, Santa Clara and 
 San lldefonso pueblos. Only short stops at Santa Cruz, 
 Pojoaque and Buckman. By lengthening trip to two days, 
 stopping over night at Espanola, all points can be visited more 
 leisurely; in that event, extra auto fare for entire party will 
 be $17.50 for six-passenger car, and $15 for four-passenger car; 
 extra meals and lodging at Espanola, each person, $2.50 or $3. 
 
 San lldefonso Indian pueblo (pop. 133) lies at foot of Battle 
 Mountain, intersection of Rio Grande and Pojoaque Rivers, 
 27 miles by road northeast of Santa Fe. Inhabitants make 
 pottery ; two ceremonial kivas, also old church with ruins of 
 convent. Important fiestas occur January 23 and September 6. 
 
 The old pueblo of San lldefonso lies on other side of Rio 
 Grande. In revolution of 1680 the two Franciscans in charge 
 of mission were killed by Indians and mission destroyed. San 
 lldefonso at one time had nearly 1,000 inhabitants. 
 
 The pueblo of Santa Clara (pop. 227), five miles north of 
 San lldefonso, but across the Rio Grande, is noted for black 
 pottery. Santa Clara dance is held August 12. 
 
 Pojoaque (pop. 15), 18 miles north of Santa Fe, is a historic 
 Indian pueblo now mainly occupied by Mexicans. Principal 
 fiesta on December 12. 
 
 San Juan (pop. 381) is 6 miles north of Espanola. The tiny 
 farms belonging to the Indian villagers are well kept. On 
 June 24, St. John's Day, occur ceremonial dances, games and 
 foot-races. 
 
 The old Indian village of Tesuque (pop. 77) is a prehistoric 
 pueblo ; here pottery idols are made, also drums, bows and 
 arrows, etc. ; fiesta is held November 12. Seat of mission of 
 San Lorenzo, established by Benavides. The pueblo had more 
 than 500 inhabitants as late as 1749. 
 
 Santa Clara is rich in traditions. The Tewa name means 
 
 " Where the wild rosebushes grow near the water." 
 
 There and back in one day. 
 
 Distance, 84 miles round trip, direct, or 88 miles via Santa Clara. 
 
 Route, via Tesuque Pueblo, Cuyamunque, Pojoaque, Santa Cruz, 
 Espanola and Santa Clara. 
 
 Fare, $40 for party of six or less in six-passenger auto with chauffeur, 
 or $30 for party of four or less in four-passenger auto with chauffeur. 
 
 Meals, extra for party; noon lunch at El Onate Hotel, Espanola, 
 60 cents each. Light baggage only. 
 
 NOTE. // party wishes to stay over night, returning to Santa Fe next 
 day, making a two days' trip, the additional auto fare for entire party 
 will be $22.50, for six-passenger car, and $17.50 for four-passenger, plus 
 hotel at Espanola, $2.50 or $3 for each person. 
 
 The Puye is one of the largest of the prehistoric communal 
 dwellings, having had some 1,600 rooms in its prime. The 
 South House was 218 feet long and 80 feet wide, terraced like 
 Taos and contained 173 rooms on ground floor. Here have 
 been held summer sessions of the School of American Re- 
 search. Caves and shrines all are well preserved. The Puye 
 settlement had a great quadrangle on the mesa top four 
 terraced community houses set around a court and cliff 
 villages near the top of the talus. 
 
 The one-day trip also permits inspection of Santa Clara 
 Indian pueblo. To adequately see all points of interest, two 
 days are required. 
 
 Puye is pointed out as the ancestral home of the Santa Clara 
 pueblos. The ruin has been in part excavated by the School 
 of American Research, and the choicest types of its ancient 
 pottery and artifacts are on exhibit at the Museum of New 
 Mexico in the Palace at Santa Fe. The location of Puye is 
 superb. From the brow of the cliff the eye sweeps as far 
 north as the Taos Mountains. Directly in front lies the val- 
 ley of the Rio Grande. Just beyond runs the majestic ram- 
 part of the Blood of Christ Range. To the south, the eye 
 reaches almost as far as the Staked Plains. The west is 
 framed by the deep blue of the Jetnez Mountains. 
 
 The inhabitants of Santa Clara are among the most hos- 
 pitable of the Rio Grande Valley Indians. 
 
 The road from Espanola to the Puye or from Santa Clara 
 to the Puye is difficult for automobiles at present, but there 
 is promise of its being put into better condition. 
 
 Watching San Juan Day Races, San Juan Pueblo. 
 9 
 
 Ruins of South House, Pure. 
 1O 
 
No. 5. Santa Fe to Tesuque, Nambe and Chimayo. 
 
 No. 6. Santa Fe to Cochiti and Santo Domingo. 
 
 Hound trip in one day. Distance, 64 miles round trip. 
 
 Route, via Tesuque, Nambe, Escondttlo and Sanctuario. 
 
 Fare, $25 for party of six persons or less in six-passenger auto with 
 thauffeur, or $20 for party of four or less in four-passenger auto with 
 thauffeur. 
 
 Meals, extra; noon lunch at Chimayo, 60 cents each. Light baggage 
 fnly. 
 
 Chimayo (pop. 250), along the Santa Cruz River, is a 
 Mexican village on the old Taos highway, skirting the foot- 
 hills. Noted for its Chimayo blankets, woven on century-old 
 foot looms by native Mexicans. Close by is Sanctuario, the 
 Lourdes of New Mexico, with its quaint chapel, where many 
 miraculous cures have been reported. Not far distant is the 
 campanile of another church ascribed to the Penitentes. The 
 Sanctuario, built by Bernardo Abeyta in 1816, is primitive in 
 its architecture, being 60 feet in length by 24 in width, with 
 massive walls. It is embellished with native wood carvings. 
 Pilgrims come from as far away as Colorado, Arizona and 
 Mexico to worship at the shrine. 
 
 Nambe (pop. 88) is an Indian village on Nambe River 
 famed for its ceremonial kiva. This ancient kiva is open to 
 visitors. A few miles above Nambe, in a wild, rocky gorge, 
 are the Nambe Falls, the finest waterfall in this region. An- 
 nual fiesta comes on the fourth of October. 
 
 Nambe was the seat of one of the earliest Franciscan mis- 
 sions of New Mexico. The fine old church was destroyed in 
 the Pueblo Rebellion and afterwards rebuilt by Gov. Busta- 
 mente in 1729. Later it was modernized and is now used as a 
 parish church for infrequent services. 
 
 The road to Chimayo lies through sandstone hills, weirdly 
 carved into fantastic shapes. It is a picturesque thorough- 
 fare, with a few steep grades. Between Nambe and Chimayo, 
 but off the main roads, lies a park of grotesque sandstone 
 formations, that is declared by travelers to equal in interest 
 the Garden of the Gods at Manitou. 
 
 Chimayo is one of the historic settlements of the State. 
 Here the Chimayo Rebellion had its inception. Across the 
 river from Sanctuario is a Presbyterian mission and the Chi- 
 mayo plaza. The Chimayo valley is noted for its early apri- 
 cots and apples. 
 
 Round trip in one day. Distance, 82 miles round trip. 
 
 Route, via La Bajada Hill and Pena Blanca, along El Camino Real. 
 
 Fare, $30 for party of six or less in six-passenger auto with chauffeur, 
 or $25 for party of four or less in four-passenger auto with chauffeur. 
 
 Meals, extra for party; noon lunch at Cochiti, 50 cents each. Light 
 baggage only. 
 
 Cochiti (pop. 237) is an Indian village, located on west 
 bank of the Rio Grande, three miles north of Pena Blanca. 
 The Cochiti Dance occurs July 14, in honor of the patron 
 saint of the pueblo. The chief feature of this ceremony is 
 the " tabla " dance, participated in by two divisions of forty 
 persons each. A decisive battle was fought in 1694 on the 
 heights above Cochiti. 
 
 Near the village is the Painted Cave. The stone pumas of 
 Potrero de Las Vacas likewise are famous. The pottery 
 manufactured here simulates animal forms. For several 
 months Cochiti was the temporary home of Adolph Bandelier, 
 explorer and author of the " Delightmakers." A few Mexican 
 families have lived in this village since 1828. 
 
 Santo Domingo (pop. 817) is the largest of the lower Rio 
 Grande Indian pueblos. It is situated above the mouth of 
 the Galisteo. Antique kivas may be seen, but the present 
 church is comparatively modern, the old mission church hav- 
 ing been washed away by destructive floods. The people here 
 are fine specimens of our First Americans, tall and shapely, 
 with intelligent faces. They are well worth studying. 
 
 The Cochitis point to Rito de los Frijoles as their ancestral 
 home. From the Rito south as far as the present Cochiti are 
 a number of communal ruins which were successively occu- 
 pied by the Cochiti clans. The clan life of this and the neigh- 
 boring pueblos is reminiscent of old Scotland, though more 
 involved. 
 
 On the road to Cochiti is the quaint settlement of Pena 
 Blanca, with its Franciscan convent, old chapel and schools. 
 The road also runs over La Bajada Hill, celebrated for its 
 switchbacks and tremendous vistas of the Rio Grande Valley. 
 At the foot of this hill lies the village of La Bajada ; here 
 are the ruins of an old inn or roadhouse, and across the 
 Santa Fe River are the partly excavated ruins of Tsinatay. 
 
 Sanctuario, the Lourdes of New Mexico. 
 11 
 
 Plaza of Santo Domingo During Annual August Ceremony. 
 12 
 
No. 7. Santa Fe to San Cristobal Ruins and 
 Pankey Ranch. 
 
 No. 8. Santa Fe to Pecos Ruins and Valley Ranch. 
 
 A journey of one day. Distance, 58 miles, round trip. 
 
 Route, via Arroyo Hondo, Piedras Negras Canyon, Apache Canyon, 
 Lamy station and Pankey Ranch. 
 
 Fare, $26 for party of six or less in six-passenger auto with chauffeur, 
 or $20 for party of four or less in four-passenger auto with chauffeur. 
 
 Meals, extra; noon basket lunch, 50 cents each person. Light baggage 
 only. 
 
 The San Cristobal Ruins, and groups of prehistoric mounds 
 in vicinity, were excavated in recent years. 
 
 San Cristobal was known as Yam-p'ham-ba by the native 
 Indians, which means " narrow belt of willows." The pueblo 
 one of several in this district was located on one side 
 of San Cristobal arroyo. The village proper was built of 
 stone and the walls were quite thick. This probably belongs 
 to the older class of pueblo structures, i. e., a compact, one- 
 story building of many rooms. 
 
 The history of this settlement is identical with that of San 
 Lazaro, the ruins of which lie six miles west of Galisteo, on 
 the eastern slope of El Chorro arroyo. San Cristobal was 
 named by Castano de Sosa in 1591, and in the year 1680 is 
 said to have had a population of more than 800. After the 
 Spaniards were driven out, the Indians of San Cristobal set- 
 tled south of present San Juan later most of their descend- 
 ants migrated to the Hopi country. 
 
 Like Galisteo and the other' pueblos of the Galisteo Basin, 
 San Cristobal was occupied by the Tano tribe, now extinct 
 they were virtually exterminated shortly after the Pueblo 
 Revolt, being among the first to besiege Santa Fe and to take 
 possession of the city, notwithstanding the fact that the 
 Pueblo plot is said to have been revealed by some of the 
 friendly inhabitants of the doomed village. 
 
 The rock pictographs in San Cristobal Canyon are on the 
 Pankey cattle ranch. The Pankey ranch covers the Eaton 
 land grant of many thousand acres and is one of the largest 
 cattle outfits in New Mexico. On the southeast corner the 
 Toltec Oil Company is boring for oil. On this ranch is one 
 of the few herds of wild horses in the State. 
 
 The scenery through Piedras Negras and Apache canyons 
 is picturesque. 
 
 There and back, one day. Distance, 58 miles, round trip. 
 
 Route, via Canyoncito and Glarieta. 
 
 Fare, $25 for party of six or less in six-passenger auto with chauffeur, 
 or $20 for party of four or less in four-passenger auto with chauffeur. 
 Light baggage only. 
 
 Meals, extra for party; noon lunch at Valley Ranch, 75 cents each. 
 
 Valley Ranch is an all-the-year-round resort, located along 
 the Pecos River, at the gateway of the road leading to the 
 headquarters of that stream. It is a pleasant stopping-place 
 for tourist travel, attracted thither by the fine fishing and 
 the opportunities for horseback rides and mountain-climbing. 
 Many Santa Feans week-end there. 
 
 A side run of a few miles brings the sightseer to the re- 
 stored ruins of the ancient Pecos church, built in 1617; also, 
 adjacent are the ruins of Indian pueblo of Cicuye now being 
 excavated by the archaeological department of Phillips Acad- 
 emy, Andover, Mass. This mission was abandoned in 1782 
 and pueblo deserted in 1838, the thirteen survivors going to 
 Jemez. A settlement probably existed on this site continuously 
 for nine centuries prior to 1540. 
 
 When first visited by the Spaniards in 1540, eighty years 
 before Plymouth Rock, Pecos was undoubtedly the largest 
 town in what is now the United States. It was a walled city, 
 and its inhabitants were warlike and self-reliant. Graphic 
 descriptions of it are found in the old Spanish chronicles and 
 writings by Castaneda, de Sosa, Benavides and others. It 
 was besieged at various times, being the eastern outpost of 
 Pueblo civilization and exposed to attack by the Plains tribes. 
 Its balconies and subterranean chambers were noted in their 
 day, and the latter have just been disclosed by excavations. 
 The site is owned by the Museum of New Mexico, and the 
 mission church ruins were restored by the School of Amer- 
 ican Research. 
 
 The Mexican village of Pecos, midway between Valley 
 Ranch and Cicuye, is another attraction. En route, one has a 
 glimpse of Apache Canyon and the battlefield of Glorieta, 
 where a crucial battle of the Civil War was fought in 1862. 
 Gen. Kearny fought the Mexicans in Apache Canyon in 1846. 
 
 Pietograph*, Pankey Ranch. 
 13 
 
 Restored Ruin* of Old Pecoi Million Church. 
 
 14 
 
No. 9. Santa Fe to Valley Ranch and Upper Pecos. 
 
 No. 10. Santa Fe to Taos. 
 
 A two days' journey. Distance, 110 miles, round trip. 
 
 Route, via Glorieta, Pecos Ruins and Valley Ranch. 
 
 Fare, $60 for party of six or less in six-passenger auto with chauffeur, 
 or $50 for party of four or less in four-passenger auto with chauffeur. 
 
 Meals and lodging, extra for party, estimated at $5.50 each person. 
 Light baggage only. 
 
 On the way to Pecos village, the route followed is similar 
 to that under Trip No. 8, passing Glorieta battlefield, Canyon- 
 cito and visiting the ruins of the Pecos pueblo, where exten- 
 sive excavating has been done the past few years. Turning 
 north at Pecos village, the Valley Ranch, a famous tourist 
 resort, is passed. 
 
 The road from Valley Ranch to the Upper Pecos is one 
 of the finest scenic drives in this whole country. The road 
 follows the Peeps Canyon and the Pecos River a beautiful, 
 rushing mountain stream through forests of aspen and pine, 
 with numerous side streams flowing in through smaller can- 
 yons along the way. 
 
 The Upper Pecos is the American Tyrol. In summer it is 
 the home of hundreds of vacationers, who either camp out in 
 tents or live in cottages. The U. S. Forest Service is making 
 this part of the Santa Fe National Forest into one of the 
 nation's foremost playgrounds by leasing cottage sites in 
 ideal locations and at nominal rentals. 
 
 There is a well-built auto road as far up as the U. S. 
 Forest Ranger's station at Panchuelo, passing El Macho, 
 Irvins-pn-the-Pecos, Winsors and Mountain View Ranch. The 
 Pecos is a noted trout stream, stocked yearly by Uncle Sam, 
 and dearly loved by the disciples of Izaak Walton. 
 
 On the upper Pecos are found coal, copper, zinc and other 
 mines. Glorious horseback trails, built by the Forest Service, 
 lead across the stupendous Santa Fe Mountains into the Santa 
 Fe Canyon, and to the Scenic Highway across the Dalton 
 Divide. 
 
 This region is an ideal one for pack and hunting trips. 
 
 In that well-known book of travel, " Through the Un- 
 known Southwest," Agnes C. Laut devotes a chapter to the 
 Pecos Forests. She traversed this same route, through Glo- 
 rieta and Valley Ranch. Her description of the ride up Pecos 
 Canyon in a wagon with a Mexican driver is full of thrills. 
 
 aos Pueblo 
 
 ernando de Taoi 
 Ranchos deTaos 
 
 Requires three days. Distance, 196 miles, round trip, and round about 
 
 Taos. 
 
 Route, via Tesuque, Pojoaque, Santa Cruz, Velarde, Glenwoody and 
 Cieneguilla. Return same way. 
 
 This schedule allows one day en route in each direction, and one day in 
 which to see the two Mexican settlements of Ranckos de Taos and Fer- 
 nandez de Taos, as well as the Indian pueblo of San Geronimo de Taos. 
 By staying a day longer, more time can be given to this locality 
 the extra cost will be $17.50 for six-passenger car and $15 for four- 
 passenger car, and about $2.50 or $3 for meals and lodging at hotel in 
 Fernandez de Taos. 
 
 Fare for three days' trip, $85 for party of six or less in six-passenger 
 auto with chauffeur, or $70 for party of four or less in four-passenger 
 auto with chauffeur. 
 
 Meals and lodging for three days' trip, extra, estimated at $6 each 
 person. Light baggage only. 
 
 At Velarde the road strikes the Rio Grande and follows the 
 canyon of that river for many miles, finally emerging on a high 
 plateau and crossing same until Fernandez de Taos is reached, 
 in the foothills of the high Taos Mountains. 
 
 Taos Valley is one of the loveliest of New Mexican valleys. 
 
 At Ranches de Taos is an old mission church, built in 1778. 
 
 Fernandez de Taos is noted as the former home of Kit Car- 
 son, the scout; here, too, once lived Governor Bent, Col. 
 St. Vrain and Judge Beaubien ; at present it is celebrated as 
 the summer home of prominent eastern artists, including 
 E. Irving Couse, Bert G. Phillips, Joseph H. Sharp, E. L. 
 Blumenschein, W. Herbert Dunton, O. E. Berninghaus, Walter 
 Ufer and Victor Higgins ; its artist colony is closely related 
 to that of Santa Fe. 
 
 The Indian pueblo of San Geronimo de Taos (pop. 517), 
 a few miles distant, is located on opposite sides of the Taos 
 River, one section of communal adobe houses rising to a 
 height of seven stories, the other five. These great piles look 
 like pyramids. There are seven kivas and a modern mission 
 church. The inhabitants retain their primitive ways. The 
 festival of San Geronimo is annually held on September 30. 
 This region was first visited by an officer of Coronado's expe- 
 dition in 1541, and was made a Spanish mission in 1617. 
 
 NOTE. This can be extended into a five days' outing, com- 
 ing back by way of Cimarron, Mora and Las Vegas. 
 
 A Scene on the Upper Pecos River. 
 15 
 
 Indian Pueblo of San Geronimo de Taos. 
 16 
 
No. 11. Santa Fe to Gran Quivira, Abo, Cuarai 
 and Manzano. 
 
 No. 12. Santa Fe to San Marcos Pueblo Ruins. 
 
 A three days' journey. Distance, 324 miles, round trip. 
 
 Route, by way of Lamy, Galisteo, Estancia and Mountainair; return 
 via. Abo. Becker, Helen and Albuquerque. 
 
 Fare, $96 for party of six or less in six-passenger auto with chauffeur, 
 or $85 for party of four or less in four-passenger auto with chauffeur. 
 
 Meati and lodging extra, estimated at $7.60 each for entire trip. 
 Light baggage only. 
 
 In the Estancia Valley of Central New Mexico, east of the 
 Manzano and Sandia Mountains, is the region of Salt Lakes, 
 where also are found the mission church and prehistoric 
 pueblo ruins of Cuarai, Abo and La Gran Quivira. Of these, 
 La Gran Quivira (or Tabira) is most widely known. First 
 missions among Piro pueblos of the Salinas were established 
 in 1629 at Abo and Tabira, and probably also at Tenabo, and 
 destroyed by Apache and Pueblo Indians in 1674. 
 
 Gran Quivira is now a National Monument. The adjoining 
 portion of the pueblo ruins is owned by the Museum of New 
 Mexico, as also is the site of the pueblo and mission ruins of 
 La Cuarai. 
 
 Abo is the most beautiful of the mission church ruins in the 
 Southwest. Cliffs of prehistoric painted rocks are found near 
 Abo station. 
 
 The Manzano pueblos are known as " The Cities That Were 
 Forgotten," or " The Cities That Died of Fear," having been 
 abandoned just before the Pueblo Revolution of 1680 on 
 account of Apache raids and having been practically for- 
 gotten for two centuries following. The survivors of the 
 ancient inhabitants, the Piro and Tigua Indians, are found on 
 both sides of the Rio Grande, south of El Paso, at Senecu 
 del Sur, in Chihuahua. The entire Piro division of the Tanoan 
 family is thought to have numbered nine thousand persons 
 early in the seventeenth century ; only a few descendants sur- 
 vive and they hardly can be distinguished from Mexicans. 
 Manzano has the oldest apple orchard in the United States 
 of America, planted before the landing of the Pilgrims at 
 Plymouth Rock. 
 
 On the return leg of the journey the way lies across a 
 mountain range, then dipping down to the valley of the Rio 
 Grande. That stream is followed most of the way home, not 
 far from Santa Fe rails. 
 
 A one day's journey. Distance, 60 miles, round trip. 
 Route, by way of Cienega and Turquoise Mines. 
 
 Fare, $26 for party of six or less in six-passenger auto with chauffeur r 
 or $20 for party of four or less in four-passenger auto with chauffeur. 
 Meals, noon basket lunch, 60 cents each. 
 
 The Turquoise Mine- is owned by the American Turquoise 
 Co., in which the Tiffanys of New York are interested, and 
 has not been operated to any extent for the past few years. 
 The New Mexican turquoise is said by high authority to bear 
 a greater resemblance to the Egyptian rather than to the Per- 
 sian specimens of that mineral. The Tanos of Santo Domingo 
 regard themselves as the real owners of the site, and often 
 visit it. 
 
 South of the Turquoise Mine is found the ruin of San 
 Marcos Pueblo, where an interesting time may be had search- 
 ing for arrowheads and other Indian relics. 
 
 San Marcos was one of the largest of the pueblos in ancient 
 times, something like 3,000 rooms being included in the com- 
 munity houses. 
 
 The Queres name was Ya-tze, but the Tanos called it Kua- 
 kaa. The name San Marcos was given in 1591 by Caspar Cas- 
 tano de Sosa. The place was abandoned in 1680. When 
 Diego de Vargas passed through, in 1692, it was then in ruins. 
 
 The Cash Entry Mine is a silver mine a few miles south of 
 San Marcos. It is usual on this trip to visit the small Petri- 
 fied Forest three miles east of Cerrillos, on the main line of 
 the Santa Fe Railway. The petrified trees here found are 
 similar to those of the noted Petrified Forest of Arizona, but 
 they are not nearly as numerous. 
 
 Just before reaching the Turquoise Mines, the historic min- 
 ing camp of Bonanza is passed. Here General Lew Wallace 
 had mining interests and would spend days in the two-story 
 frame house still to be seen there. Occasionally he had with 
 him his manuscript of Ben Hur, which he was then writing, 
 and part of the story is said to have been written here. 
 
 Near by is the Tano pueblo ruin of Cienega, which, like San 
 Marcos, has been partially excavated. Cienega is a quaint set- 
 tlement, peculiar because of the red color of its houses, caused 
 by the redness of the clay from which the adobes are made. 
 
 La Cuarai Mission Church Ruin. 
 
 17 
 
 Auto Part; on Upper Pecos. 
 18 
 
Kaibab 
 National 
 
 Forest 
 
 This map shows some of the trips that may be taken by saddle and pack, also by tea 
 
 vary from quick one-day auto jaunts to thirty-day saddle and pack camping trips. 1 
 
 mountains, painted deserts and petrified forests. The Grand Canyon, too, and lesser c 
 
 And all for a reasonable price, keeping in touch with civilization, y< 
 
 19 
 
 2O 
 
SM r i i *r* 
 
 S*^Vorestf I J .* 
 
 K-3.1** : H 
 
 
 
 ' Outing Trips 
 
 or auto to out-of-the-way places in northern New Mexico and Arizona. These outings 
 ;y include Indian pueblos, Mexican villages, prehistoric cliff-dwellings, snowcapped 
 yons. You can fish, hunt, tramp and sight-see. You can rough it to any extent desired, 
 apart from it. Suitable for late spring, summer and early fall months. 
 
 21 
 
 22 
 
No. 13. Santa Fe to Tesuque Indian Pueblo. 
 
 A three hours 1 journey. Distance, 18 miles, round trip. 
 
 Route, by way of Tesuque Village. 
 
 Fare, $10 for party of six or less in six-passenger auto with chauffeur, 
 or $7 for party of four or less in four-passenger auto with chauffeur. 
 Light baggage only. 
 
 The Tesuque Indian Pueblo, located nine miles north of 
 Santa Fe, is the nearest pueblo to that city. For those having 
 but a few hours to spend, this trip is recommended, as Tesu- 
 que probably is one of the finest examples of pueblo life. In 
 connection with this journey, at an additional expense of $3, 
 an hour can be devoted to " Seeing Santa Fe," with a capable 
 guide. 
 
 The trip to Tesuque is one of the most charming, mile for 
 mile, that can be taken in the Southwest. The ascent from 
 Santa Fe to the Tesuque Divide is made in part over the Sena 
 Circle Drive, on the ridge of a foothill, commanding vistas of 
 mountains and cedar-covered foothills. From the top of the 
 divide a wonderful panorama is spread before the eyes. It 
 comprises much of human interest, because of the lovely Tesu- 
 que Valley, the distant cliff-dwelling mesas, and the many his- 
 toric spots which dot the landscape. Towards the mountains 
 one looks over vast forests, part of the Santa Fe National 
 Forest of more than 1,400,000 acres across gorges and can- 
 yons to mountain peaks covered with eternal snows. 
 
 The descent is made over a well-built road down to the 
 Tesuque River into a rural settlement that is famous for apples, 
 prunes, plums, cherries and other horticultural and agricul- 
 tural products. To one side is Bishop's Ranch, with its pretty 
 chapel and fine homes built in New Mexico style of archi- 
 tecture. 
 
 The pueblo itself is off the main road and is an example of 
 so-called protective coloring, for one would pass within sight 
 of it ordinarily without seeing it, the houses being of the same 
 color as the earth and the hills. 
 
 The Tesuques are noted for their unique dances, such as the 
 Eagle, Deer and Buffalo. 
 
 IMPORTANT NOTE. Combinations of many of the foregoing 
 trips may be made for a longer outing. On request the Rocky 
 Mountain Camp Co. will plan a circle tour by auto of one or 
 two weeks. 
 
 No. 14. Camping Trips from Santa Fe. 
 
 The Rocky Mountain Camp Co. also can provide teams and 
 mountain wagons for special trips to main tourist attractions 
 reached by auto, with accommodations at end of each day's 
 journey. One method is to go by wagon or with saddle and 
 pack horses, also " chuck " and camping outfit. 
 
 Every point accessible for auto or team easily can be reached 
 by saddle and pack animals. In addition there are numerous 
 combinations of saddle and pack jaunts into the mountains on 
 each side of the Rio Grande for recreation, hunting, fishing 
 and camping. There are about 2,000,000 acres of mountain 
 peaks, canyons, trout streams and game haunts, well timbered, 
 to the east, west and north of Santa Fe, in the Sangre de 
 Cristo, Taos, Valles, Jemez and Cochiti ranges. Four peaks are 
 more than 13,000 feet high, seven others 12,000 feet and up, and 
 a score or more with an altitude of approximately 10,000 feet. 
 Lake Peak, Santa Fe Baldy, Elk Mountain, Grass Mountain, 
 the Truchas Peaks, Jicarilla Peak, and the snow-capped eleva- 
 tions of the Jemez range are prominent features along the 
 trails traversed. 
 
 Outfits can be procured for long overland trips to Acoma, 
 Zuni, Canyon de Chelly, Canyon del Muerto, the Rainbow and 
 Natural Bridges of Utah, Mesa Verde National Park, through 
 the heart of the Navaho Reservation to the Hopi villages, etc. 
 
 Regular tours may be arranged, in season, following a set 
 route and lasting from one to three weeks, at a flat rate cover- 
 ing all expenses, or at a per diem charge. 
 
 A sample outing starts from Santa Fe, thence up Dalton 
 Trail to Pecos River at Panchuelo Ranger station, via Lake 
 Peak and Spirit Lake. From there to the Falls of the Pecos, 
 with a side tour to Truchas Peaks, and on to Taos through 
 the Santa Barbara grant. The route from Taos, southwest to 
 Espanola, takes in Picuris, Las Trampas, Truchas and Chi- 
 mayo. After leaving Espanola the cliff-dwellings of Puye, 
 Otowi, Tsankawi, Tschirege and Frijoles are visited, the party 
 disbanding at Santa Fe. 
 
 Trips can be arranged, on short notice, for visiting old ruins 
 and Indian villages, for hunting and fishing, or any other form 
 of out-door recreation. Saddle and pack animals are a spec- 
 ialty ; but buggies or spring wagons are furnished when needed. 
 The horses are sure-footed cow ponies, at home on any trail. 
 Complete camp outfits, with good cooks and plenty to- eat. 
 Fishing along remote streams where the catch is ample. 
 
 Rates depend upon length of trip and size of party, and each 
 trip is planned in advance. It is customary to charge a lump 
 sum, which includes transportation, meals, lodging and ser- 
 vices of guides. 
 
 Permanent camps are maintained by the Rocky Mountain 
 Camp Co. in the Santa Fe National Forest and the Bandelier 
 National Monument. These are operated during the summer 
 months for fishing, hunting, riding and exploration. 
 
 Visitors in Santa Fe are invited to visit the Information 
 Bureau of The Rocky Mountain Camp Co. 
 
 Eagle Dance, Tesuque. 
 23 
 
 Off the Beaten Path. 
 24 
 
Camping Out on the Painted Desert. 
 
 Noon Camp at Canyon de Chelly. 
 
 After the Hunt. 
 
 Camping Trips from Espanola. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Richard Pfaffle, proprietors of El Onate Hotel, 
 Espanola, N. M., are prepared to conduct special parties for 
 jaunts among the Indian pueblos in vicinity, the ruins of Puye 
 and Frijoles, the Spanish churches in the outlying Mexican 
 villages, and also for camping trips into the Rockies. 
 
 At their mountain ranch, 40 miles up in the Jemez Range, 
 there is excellent trout fishing and game in season, with oppor- 
 tunities for a complete rest. 
 
 Reduced rates are made for artists, students and persons of 
 limited means, who travel by wagon in charge of competent 
 Indian guides. 
 
 The regular parties are in charge of Mr. Robert C. Prewitt, 
 under Mr. Pfaffle's direction and assisted by native Indians. 
 Many of the longer trips reach into the Navaho country 
 Mr. Prewitt spent his early life there, speaks their language 
 and thoroughly understands their customs, ceremonies, etc. 
 
 Both Mr. Pfaffle and his wife have made frequent journeys 
 by saddle and pack in New Mexico, Arizona, Southern Colo- 
 rado and Southern Utah, hence have first-hand knowledge of 
 that region. And they probably know the startling rites of 
 the Penitentes better than most other American neighbors of 
 that strange sect. 
 
 They will meet patrons in Santa Fe, if desired, provided 
 sufficient advance notice is given. 
 
 Rates made known on application. 
 
 Eaton Party in Camp on the Navaho Reservation. 
 25 
 
 Overlooking Frijoles Canyon 
 26 
 
Howard Eaton 1917 Camping Party. 
 
 Adamana to Wide Ruins and Hopi Pueblos. 
 
 GRAND 
 CANYON 
 
 anyon del Myerto 
 Canyon de CWly 
 
 S Ft Defiance 
 Michaels 
 
 Mr. Howard Eaton is proprietor of Eaton's Ranch, Wolf, 
 Wyoming, where in summer and fall months he conducts a 
 ranch resort. For the last three years he has taken special 
 horseback parties through the Zuni, Hopi and Navaho Indian 
 reservations, in New Mexico and Arizona. 
 
 Another Eaton party is scheduled for the Fall of 1917, pro- 
 vided a sufficient number join. Strictly limited to fifty per- 
 sons, but will start if only thirty go. Reservations must reach 
 Mr. Eaton not later than August i, with deposit. Members 
 of party must reach Adamana not later than October 9. 
 
 The plan is to leave Adamana, Arizona, October 10, 1917, 
 by auto north to Indian Wells, half way to the Hopi pueblos, 
 first taking in the Petrified Forests. From that point horses 
 and coaches will be used, accompanied by chuck wagons. A 
 coach is provided for resting after long rides in the saddle. 
 
 The route from Indian Wells is via Polacca, Keams Canyon, 
 Ganado, Chinle, Ft. Defiance, St. Michaels, Gallup, Inscription 
 Rock, Zuni and Navaho, back to Adamana, where Santa Fe 
 train will be taken to Grand Canyon. The party disbands here. 
 
 Among important attractions on the way are the sky-cities 
 of the Hopi Indians, Navaho trading post at Ganado, Can- 
 yons de Chelly and del Muerto, Inscription Rock, Zuni Indian 
 pueblo and the Petrified Forests. 
 
 The above places will all be visited, unless unforeseen causes 
 interfere. Three days are allowed at the Grand Canyon of 
 Arizona; riding down Hermit Trail, sleeping at Hermit Camp, 
 riding along Tonto Trail which winds in and out, up and 
 down the inner canyon plateau and then up Bright Angel 
 Trail to the rim. 
 
 The $300 charged by Mr. Eaton for this thirty-days' trip 
 includes all expenses except railroad ticket. Members of party 
 should buy round-trip excursion ticket over the Santa Fe to 
 Grand Canyon, on which stopover will be granted at Adamana. 
 Plain, serviceable clothing and easy shoes or riding boots 
 should be worn. Medium weight underwear, with a sweater, 
 or overcoat, is advised. Raincoats or slickers are desirable 
 for chance storms. Ladies should procure divided skirts or 
 riding habits. Personal baggage on riding trip is limited to 
 one suitcase. Booklets will be sent on request. 
 
 Adamana is railroad station for the Petrified Forests. Mr. 
 Chester B. Campbell runs the Campbell Hotel and livery. 
 
 Besides one-day trips to various sections of the Forests, 
 Mr. Campbell takes tourists by auto to the old Navaho trading 
 post of Kin-Tiel (Wide Ruins) and to the Hopi villages. 
 
 The distance by road to Wide Ruins from Adamana is 48 
 miles. The round-trip easily is made in a day, stopping for 
 noon lunch at destination. The way is over a plateau country, 
 traversed by sandy washes and broken by some high ridges. 
 En route the traveler passes Pinta, Inscription Rock, the 
 Painted Desert and LeRoux Wash, entering the Navaho reser- 
 vation about thirty miles out. Tanner Spring cattle and sheep 
 ranch is the next point of interest. The prehistoric ruins 
 clustering around the spring at Kin-Tiel indicate that a very 
 extensive settlement once existed here. 
 
 The trip requires three and one-quarter hours each way. 
 The charge for auto party of four persons or less is $30, in- 
 cluding noon lunch and services of chauffeur, who also acts 
 as guide. Only light luggage carried. 
 
 Six days should be allowed for the auto trip to Hopi vil- 
 lages, but the journey can be made more quickly. 
 
 The route from Adamana is close to the railroad as far as 
 Aztec station, 12 miles, thence north across the Painted Desert 
 and near the Hopi Buttes to Indian Wells, Keams Canyon and 
 Polacca. With Polacca as headquarters the other two mesas 
 are visited. Return same route. 
 
 The distance traversed is about 240 miles round-trip. Auto is 
 used for the 90 miles to Keams Canyon, where saddle-ponies 
 are secured for remainder of trip to Wolpi, Toreva and Oraibi. 
 
 For party of three persons or less, occupying one auto, with 
 light suitcases, Mr. Campbell's price is $30 a day, all expenses 
 included. This makes the entire trip cost from $120 to $180, 
 depending upon whether four or six days are consumed. It 
 requires at least eight hours to go from Adamana to Keams 
 Canyon, or one day to Polacca (Wolpi). This expense, di- 
 vided among three persons, would be $40 to $60 apiece. 
 
 Camping trips can be taken from Adamana to the Hopi 
 country, with teams, saddle horses, guide and complete outfit, 
 requiring twelve days for round trip, at rate of $100 each per- 
 son, all expenses paid minimum of four persons in party. 
 
 Eaton 1916 Party, Canyon de Chelly. 
 27 
 
 
 Navaho Trading Post at Wide Ruins (Kin-Tiel). 
 28 
 
Laguna and Acoma Indian Pueblos. 
 
 Gallup to Zuni and Inscription Rock. 
 
 Laguna Pu 
 Acoma 
 
 N 
 
 i 
 
 ISLETA 
 
 BELEN 
 
 By stopping off at Laguna station, New Mexico, the Indian 
 pueblos of Laguna and Acoma may be briefly visited. 
 
 Lodging and meals at Laguna station hotel, run by E. F. 
 Eckerman, who also conducts local livery. No accommoda- 
 tions for visitors at either pueblo. 
 
 Auto or wagon transportation, Laguna station to Laguna 
 pueblo, 3 miles, costs $i each person, round-trip, any number. 
 
 By auto, Laguna station to Acoma pueblo direct, 12 miles, 
 the fare is $3 each person, for three or more persons, up to 
 capacity of car, with minimum charge of $8 for less than three. 
 
 By team, Laguna station to Acoma pueblo, direct, the charge 
 is $3 round-trip each person, with minimum charge of $5. 
 
 The journey from railroad to Acoma requires about two 
 hours each way by auto and three hours by team. 
 
 The pueblo of Laguna (San Josef de la Laguna) was founded 
 in 1699. It is picturesquesly located on a high rock near the 
 San Jose River. The old parish church contains the largest 
 painting ever made on elk skin. In former days several im- 
 portant battles were fought here with Navahos and Apaches. 
 Laguna Indians also occupy nearby villages at Paquate, Negra, 
 Encino and Casa Blanca. The Laguna tribe numbers 1,412 
 persons. 
 
 The so-called " sky city " of Acoma (people of the white 
 rock) on a mesa 400 feet high, was founded in prehistoric 
 times and first heard of by Friar Marcos in 1539. Here, in 
 1599, the Spaniards conquered the Acomas in a three-days' 
 battle. On Rock of Acoma stands only Franciscan mission 
 established in 1629 which entirely survived the Pueblo Re- 
 bellion of 1680; all materials for this church were brought 
 from plain below up steep trail on backs of Indians. Present 
 population, 691. 
 
 The Mesa Encantada, reputed site of prehistoric village of 
 Katzimo, lies between Laguna and Acoma. 
 
 Acoma and Laguna Indians make pottery, till the fields and 
 have large herds of sheep and goats. Annual fiesta at Acoma 
 takes place September 2. The winter dances at Laguna are 
 notable, also their September 19 fiesta. Acoma is a very primi- 
 tive pueblo ; Laguna, being nearer the railway, has more evi- 
 dences of civilization. At no other place along the Santa Fe 
 can the home life of the Pueblo Indians be so easily seen. 
 
 Zuni 
 
 Mr. J. L. Hubbell, Indian trader, Gallup, New Mexico, will 
 take parties by auto to Zuni, Ramah and Inscription Rock. 
 The round-trip journey from Gallup to Zuni can be made in 
 one day, though two days is preferable. 
 
 An extra day is required, Zuni to Inscription Rock, vi 
 Ramah. 
 
 Distance from Gallup to Zuni is 40 miles, and from Zuni 
 to Inscription Rock 25 miles. 
 
 Fare is $30 for party of three or less in Ford auto, with 
 chauffeur, Gallup to Zuni and return, a one-day trip; lunch 
 at Zuni included. 
 
 Fare is $60 for party of three or less in Ford auto with 
 chauffeur, Gallup to Zuni and return, a two-days' trip, includ- 
 ing meals and lodging at Zuni or $35 if party furnishes its 
 own accommodations at Zuni. Light baggage only. 
 
 Rooms and meals may be obtained at trading store of A. 
 Vanderwagen; room only, at trading store of Mr. Ilfield. 
 
 If party continues journey to Ramah and Inscription Rock, 
 the extra expense for auto, one day, will be $30, meals and 
 lodging included. 
 
 Gallup is a division point on the Santa Fe and gateway to 
 many sections of scenic interest, such as Zuni, Inscription 
 Rock, the Navaho country, the Hopi villages, also Canyon* 
 de Chelly, del Muerto and Chaco. The roads in the region 
 roundabout are quite good most of the year. 
 
 Zuni (pop. 1700) is the largest of all the Southwest Indian 
 pueblos, situated in an open plain on the Zuni River, near 
 Thunder Mountain. The adobe houses, built in communal 
 fashion, rise in some instances five stories high. Zuni was in 
 existence when the Spaniards explored this region in 1540. 
 The most famous dance is the Shalako, held usually in Novem- 
 ber. The Zunis are noted as pottery makers, yarn spinner* 
 and turquoise drillers. 
 
 A few miles above the Indian settlement is Blackrock, where 
 the U. S. Government maintains an Indian school and a $500- 
 ooo dam which supplies water for irrigation. 
 
 Ramah is a typical Mormon settlement. 
 
 Inscription Rock, the stone autograph album, bears inscrip- 
 tions made by the Spanish explorers as far back as 1606. The 
 Rock is now a national monument. 
 
 Tablita Dance, Acoma. 
 29 
 
 Zuni Kateina Dance. 
 30 
 
Trip No. A. Gallup to Ganado. 
 
 Trip No. B. Gallup to Canyons De Chelly and 
 Del Muerto. 
 
 TRIPS OUT OF GALLUP. 
 
 Mr. J. L. Hubbell, Indian trader, Gallup, N. M., also owns 
 trading stores at Ganado, Keams Canyon and Chinle. He is 
 equipped to care for outing parties, with autos, teams and sad- 
 dle horses, to the Navaho and Hopi reservations in Arizona. 
 
 Following trips are by auto, except saddle ponies in Canyon 
 de Chelly, Canyon del Muerto, and Hopi villages. Where 
 team or saddle-pack outfit is preferred, special rates will be 
 made. 
 
 Distance, 60 miles, round trip. Route, via St. Michaels. 
 Time, about five hours each way. Only light baggage carried. 
 Fare, $30, /or party of three or less in Ford auto. 
 
 Rate named includes lodging and meals at Ganado, also saddle ponies 
 for short rides around Ganado if desired. 
 
 Ganado is a trading post, in the heart of the Navaho country, 
 kept by Mr. J. L. Hubbell, who has lived there for many years. 
 Here one may see how the Navahos live and how they trade. 
 Three miles from Ganado reached by auto is a small pet- 
 rified forest. 
 
 Half way from Gallup is St. Michaels, Franciscan mission 
 and school for Indian children. 
 
 A few miles east of St. Michaels are peculiarly eroded boul- 
 ders shaped like stacks of hay, and the Natural Window. 
 Kit Carson fought and defeated the Apaches in this locality. 
 North of St. Michaels is Ft. Defiance, where a U. S. Indian 
 school is maintained ; the fort was garrisoned until Indian 
 outbreaks ceased. 
 
 The Navaho reservation comprises nearly 15,000 square 
 miles in northwestern Arizona. The Navahos number about 
 25,000 persons. In their own tongue they call themselves 
 " Dinneh " meaning " the people." By the early Spaniards 
 they were first called Apaches de Navaju, or "Apaches with 
 the cultivated fields." They are pastoral, owning large flocks 
 of sheep and herds of cattle. The 12,000 Indians of Ft. Defi- 
 ance agency are estimated to own 406,000 sheep, 116,000 goats, 
 15,000 cattle and 26,000 horses. In 1915 their sales of various 
 products totaled $1,000,000. They also weave fine blankets 
 and work in silver. Government district agencies are located 
 at Ft. Defiance, Tuba, Leupp and Keams Canyon, Arizona, 
 and at Shiprock, N. M. 
 
 Four days, round trip. 
 
 Distance, 200 miles, to entrance Canyon de Chelly and back. 
 
 Route, via St. Michaels, Ganado and Chinle. Only light baggage carried. 
 
 Fare, $120, for party of three or less in Ford auto. 
 
 Rate includes meals en route, lodging at Ganado and Chinle, and saddle 
 ponies with guide in Canyons de Chelly (pronounced de Shay) and del 
 Muerto. 
 
 The journey can be made by auto in one day, if everything 
 goes right ; same time for return which would allow about 
 two days for the canyons. But in order to see Ganado prop- 
 erly more time should be taken for the going journey; arriv- 
 ing Chinle evening of second day, allowing two nights and 
 one full day for Chinle and vicinity. There is so much to see 
 here that another day can be well spent in the canyons, making 
 five days from Gallup in all. For the extra (fifth) day the 
 additional charge for party of three or less will be $30. 
 
 Between St. Michaels and Ganado a thickly forested area 
 is traversed, the road winding among the high hills of Defi- 
 ance Plateau. From Ganado to Chinle the way lies along the 
 broad Chinle Valley, with occasional lakes which are filled 
 during the rainy season. 
 
 Chinle is a Navaho trading post, with U. S. Indian school 
 and a mission. A few miles east is Rio de Chelly, a typical 
 desert stream, which heads in the Chuska Mountains and flows 
 north to junction with the San Juan in southern Utah. 
 
 Canyon de Chelly, with its own principal branches, del Muerto 
 and Monument, is about forty miles long. The sandy bed of 
 the little stream (almost dry at times and at others brim full) 
 is hemmed in by sheer walls of red sandstone that tower sky- 
 wards 800 to 1,500 feet. On either side are pinnacles, crags 
 and towers of great height, sculptured by wind and rain ; of 
 these El Capitan stands supreme. Canyon del Muerto gets 
 its gruesome name from the massacre of Navahos by Span- 
 iards in 1804. Scores of prehistoric cliff dwellings nestle in 
 high crevices along the precipitous rock walls ; the White 
 House, Antelope Ruin and Mummy Cave are the most widely 
 known. Thousands of peach trees, planted by the early Span- 
 iards, still produce fruit for their Navaho owners. 
 
 There are Navaho Indians living in these canyons in the 
 same primitive fashion that they lived a century ago, when the 
 Spaniards first came. 
 
 The White House, Canyon de Chelly. 
 32 
 
Trip No. C. Chinle to Rainbow Natural Bridge. 
 
 Trip No. D. Gallup to Hopi Villages. 
 
 On the northern slopes of Navaho Mountain, just beyond 
 the Arizona-Utah line, is Bridge Canyon, a tributary of San 
 Juan River. In this canyon is the Rainbow Natural Bridge, 
 first seen by white men in 1909 a triumphal arch spanning 
 a wide gorge. It is so inaccessible that but few travelers have 
 visited it. Ex-President Roosevelt went there during the sum- 
 mer of 1913 and describes the trip as one of many thrills. 
 
 One route to the Rainbow Natural Bridge is from Chinle 
 to Kayenta by automobile, along the foot of Black Mesa, thence 
 by trail through Marsh Pass and Laguna Canyon (noted for its 
 prehistoric cliff ruins) and crossing the upper reaches of Piute 
 Canyon to destination. 
 
 Mr. J. L. Hubbell will provide automobiles as far as Kayenta, 
 where Messrs. Wetherill & Colville have a Navaho trading store. 
 Facilities for the arduous camping trip between Kayenta and 
 Rainbow Natural Bridge are furnished by Mr. Wetherill. The 
 entire trip, from Chinle to Rainbow and back, can be made in 
 ten to twelve days. Approximate charges are as follows : 
 
 Chinle to Kayenta (75 miles) and return, two or three days, 
 $60 and $90 for party of three persons or less, including ser- 
 vices of guide, meals en route and accommodations at Kayenta. 
 
 Kayenta to Rainbow Natural Bridge (75 miles) and return, 
 eight to ten days, $30 a day for party of three persons or less, 
 including services of guide and meals en route. 
 
 The Rainbow Natural Bridge, the largest in the world (279 
 feet span and 309 feet high) was discovered in the fall of 
 1909 by a party under the guidance of Mr. John Wetherill, 
 organized by Prof. Byron Cummings, of the Arizona Univer- 
 sity, and William Douglass, of the General Land Office. 
 
 It derives its name, Rainbow, from the Navaho word, Not- 
 se-Iid. The Nayahos hold the place in great reverence, say- 
 ing a prayer to it before they will pass under. 
 
 Zane Grey, the novelist, in an article in Recreation, says : 
 
 " This Rainbow bridge was the one great natural phenome- 
 non, the one grand spectacle, which I have ever seen that did 
 not at first give vague disappointment." 
 
 " But this thing was glorious. It absolutely silenced me. I 
 had a strange, mystic perception that this rosy-hued tremen- 
 dous arch of stone was a goal I had failed to reach in some 
 former life, but had now found." 
 
 There and back in five days. Distance, 300 miles, round trip. 
 
 Route, via St. Michaels, Canada, Keams Canyon, Polacca and Toreva 
 to Oraibi and Hotavila. 
 
 Fare, $150, for party of three or less in Ford auto. Only light baggage 
 carried. 
 
 Rate includes meals en route, lodging at Ganado, Keams Canyon, 
 Polacca and Toreva or Oraibi, also use of saddle ponies in getting around 
 among the Hopi villages where autos are not feasible. 
 
 NOTE 1. Arrangements can be made to go from Oraibi to Flagstaff 
 or Grand Canyon by auto, party disbanding at either point. An extra 
 charge is made to cover expense of returning outfit to Gallup. 
 
 NOTE 2. For the 1917 Snake Dance at Wolpi in August, Mr. Hubbell 
 has special service and rates. For those who wish to start from Gallup 
 and return to that point a three or four days 1 outing the charge is 
 $75 round trip for one person, including meals and lodging en route. 
 
 For two or three persona, in a Ford car, the expense is $90 for three 
 days, or $120 for four days. 
 
 Steamboat Canyon, Eagle Crag, Teshbito Wash and Jadito 
 Wash are passed on the way to Keams Canyon. At latter 
 point is a U. S. Government Indian school, maintained for the 
 Hopi Indians, whose reservation is carved out of the larger 
 reservations of the Navahos. The Hopi country can be 
 reached from several stations on the Santa Fe Gallup, Ada- 
 mana, Holbrook, Winslow and Flagstaff. The route from 
 Gallup has the most varied scenery. 
 
 The Hopi Indians now number about 1,000 persons. They 
 are a peaceful, kindly folk inhabiting seven "sky cities" 
 loftily perched on three mesas projecting into the Painted 
 Desert. On the first mesa are Wolpi, Sichumovi and Tewa 
 (Polacca postoffice). On the second mesa are Mishongnovi, 
 Shipaulovi and Shungopavi (Toreva postoffice). Oraibi once 
 was the only village on third mesa ; some of its former inhabi- 
 tants now live at Hotaville nearby. Below the villages are the 
 cornfields, peach orchards and gardens. Each has its own 
 spring and its own shrines. 
 
 Their ceremonies are primitive and of great interest to the 
 traveler. The most celebrated is that of the Snake Dance, 
 which occurs late in August. The others include the Katcina 
 dances, the winter ceremonies, the Powamu ceremony and the 
 Flute Dance. 
 
 The Hopi women make the finest pottery in the Southwest, 
 while the men weave blankets and sashes. 
 A replica of a Hopi home may be seen at Grand Canyon, 
 opposite El Tovar; several Hopi families regularly live here. 
 
 Rainbow Bridie, Largest Natural Bridie in World. 
 33 
 
 Hopi Flute Dance Ceremony at Spring. 
 34 
 
 ...J 
 
Outings in Vicinity of Flagstaff. 
 
 Holbrook and Winslow to Indian Reservations. 
 
 Flagstaff, Ariz. (pop. 3,500), is situated in the heart of the 
 San Francisco uplift, 6,900 feet above sea level. It is a summer 
 vacation place for Arizonans. The town has several big lum- 
 ber mills, and is the site of Lowell Observatory, renowned 
 for investigations of the planet Mars. 
 
 The San Francisco Peaks lie just north of Flagstaff. They 
 are visible from points within a radius of 200 miles. There 
 are three peaks, which form one mountain. A road has been 
 built part way up Humphrey's Peak (alt. 12,750 ft.) ; the trip 
 to summit and back may be made in a day by road and trail. 
 
 Eight miles southwest of Flagstaff is Walnut Canyon, a 
 rent in the earth several hundred feet deep and three miles 
 long, with steep terraced walls. Along its shelving terraces, 
 under projections of the strata, are scores of cliff dwellings. 
 Cemented walls, many parts of which still are intact, divide 
 the larger houses into compartments. 
 
 Sunset Mountain is 16 miles northeast an extinct vol- 
 canic cone, rising a thousand feet and tipped with reddish 
 cinders which radiate a sunset glow hence the name ; crater 
 on top is 200 feet deep and half a mile across ; at its base are 
 immense lava beds, ice caves, where ice is found on the hot- 
 est summer days ; and Black Crater, the largest in Arizona. 
 
 The Painted Desert may be seen from Sunset Mountain; 
 thirty distinct colors of sand gleam like an opal in the intense 
 sunlight. 
 
 Oak Creek, 15 miles south, is reached over a well-traveled 
 road; accommodations at Lolomai lodge. Here is excellent 
 trout fishing in season. 
 
 Flagstaff also is point of departure for auto trips and camp- 
 ing trips to Tuba, in the Navaho country; to Oraibi and 
 Keams Canyon, on the Hopi reservation, where the Snake 
 Dance is held each August; and to Grand Canyon via Grand 
 View. 
 
 Outfits for all these jaunts may be secured in Flagstaff at 
 customary rates. 
 
 Lake Mary is a new summer resort ten miles south of Flag- 
 staff, with good bass fishing and boating ; $7.50 round trip. 
 
 Transportation in four-passenger car, Flagstaff to Hopi 
 Villages and return, costs $25 each person. The rate to Wal- 
 nut Canyon cliff dwellings is $7.50 round trip. 
 
 From Holbrook (pop. 1,200) conveyance may be taken to 
 the White Mountain Apache country south ; also to Hopi 
 reservation north ; and to Petrified Forest. 
 
 Regular auto stage service on week days, Holbrook to Ft. 
 Apache, 94 miles; fare, $8 one-way or $15 round-trip; for 
 exclusive use of car, at any time, with competent chauffeur, 
 the charge is $15 a day one person and $20 a day two persons. 
 
 Fort Apache is in the White Mountains, a land of clear 
 streams, pines, meadows and cool summer climate. Near by 
 is White River Indian school and agency. This branch of the 
 Apaches are wholly civilized; they weave fine baskets. Some 
 wild game is found, such as bear, deer, wild turkey and moun- 
 tain lions. 
 
 This reservation is 95 miles long by 70 miles wide. Here 
 have been gathered the several western bands, numbering 
 nearly 1,900 persons at White River agency and 2,900 at San 
 Carlos. Their houses are of a low, oval form, made of poles 
 covered with interlaced grasses and canvas. 
 
 When passengers offer, autos are operated by local livery- 
 men to Keams Canyon, 85 miles northeast; fare, $45 round- 
 trip for three persons or less. 
 
 Daily auto service to Petrified Forest, 18 miles southeast. 
 Fare, $10 for party of four or less in one auto. 
 
 Holbrook has hotels and livery service. Inquire of A. T. & 
 S. F. local agent for further details. 
 
 NOTE. On occasion of Hopi Snake Dance, in August, 
 special rates are made by auto or teams for all-expense parties. 
 
 Winslow, Arizona, is a Santa Fe division headquarters, with 
 Fred Harvey station hotel. 
 
 Autos or teams may be obtained from local liverymen for 
 trips north to Hopi reservation, at customary rates for such 
 service. Arrange in advance through local Santa Fe agent. 
 
 At time of Hopi Snake Dance special accommodations are 
 provided and special rates are made which include all expenses. 
 The way leads almost due north, across Little Colorado River 
 and Painted Desert to Polacca and Keams Canyon. The Hopi 
 buttes are a distinctive feature of this route. 
 
 San Francisco Peak*, Near Flagitaff. 
 35 
 
 Chief Al-che-.ay and Family, White Mtn. Apache. 
 36 
 
On Rim of Grand Canyon at El Tovar. 
 
 Grand Canyon to Navaho and Hopi Reservations. 
 
 El Tovar transportation department, at Grand Canyon, Ari- 
 zona, is a part of the Fred Harvey system, and is under man- 
 agement of Mr. Walter Hubbell. 
 
 It is fully equipped to care for camping parties almost any- 
 where in the Grand Canyon region. The animals and teams 
 are suited to the country; the guides are trustworthy and 
 capable. Everything is done that contributes to comfort and 
 safety. 
 
 Most of the camping trips are for a period of about three 
 days either along the inner Canyon plateau, just above the 
 Colorado River; or in the pine forest rimming the great 
 gorge ; or to Havasupai Indian village, deep down in Cataract 
 Canyon. 
 
 One of the most popular long-distance trips is to the Navaho 
 and Hopi reservations, across the Painted Desert, with its 
 colored sands and cliffs. 
 
 Starting from El Tovar Hotel, the old Moki Trail is fol- 
 lowed eastward through Rowe's Ranch, and then on two-thirds 
 of the way to Coconino Point, where a turn is taken to the 
 left. This trail has many short cuts. After crossing Little 
 Colorado River (a tributary of the "big" Colorado) the party 
 traverses Moencopie Wash to Black Mountain, then bearing to 
 the right until Flagstaff Road is reached. The Flagstaff Road 
 is followed from there straight to Tuba City. This settle- 
 
 ment is a favorite gathering place for the Navahos when they 
 wish to trade or have a dance; here may be seen the nomadic 
 Indian at home, in all his blanketed glory, the women weaving 
 blankets and the men fashioning silver ornaments. A few 
 miles beyond, at Sheepdip Fork, a trail leads off to the left 
 for Red Lakes, while the wagon road takes a different route. 
 Midway between Tuba City and Red Lakes the road branches 
 for Oraibi, on the third mesa. 
 
 Night camps usually are made at Rowe's Ranch, Black 
 Mountain, Tuba City and Blue Canyon or Trading Post. 
 
 Oraibi once was the largest of the seven Hopi villages and 
 the most primitive ; many of its former inhabitants now live 
 at the new village of Hotavila. 
 
 This outing de-luxe is confidently recommended to those 
 who wish to see native Indian life. The Painted Desert also 
 has much charm. 
 
 Distance, Grand Canyon to Oraibi, 137 miles. 
 
 Time required for round-trip, eleven days, which allows 
 one day at Oraibi. If side trip is made to Hotavila, add one 
 day, and for Reams Canyon add two days or say two weeks 
 in all. 
 
 The charge is $15 a day for one person and $10 a day for 
 each additional person, including complete pack outfit and 
 animals, also services of guide. Members of party pay extra 
 for their own provisions and for horse feed. 
 
 In Camp Along Rim of Grand Canyon. 
 37 
 
 An Inner Canyon Camping Party. 
 38 
 
PMCROFT LIBRART 
 
 PAPERS 
 
 Fordinjr White River, Apache Reservation. 
 
 Navaho Flock of Sheep at Chinle. 
 
 Valley Ranch. 
 
 Hop! Snake Dance at Oraibi. 
 
 Burro Alley, Santa Fe. 
 39 
 
 Adv. 1029. 7-5-17. 15M