OWEN Nox THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES . THE STRANGER'S STORY. (See page 115.) SOUTHERN RAMBLES FLORIDA, BY OWEN NOX. BOSTON: A. WILLIAMS & COMPANY. 1881. COPYRIGHT, 1831, BY ALFRED MVDGE & SON PREFACE. EVERY book should have a preface ; not that it adds in any way to the value of the work, but it gives it an air of respectability. o. N. CONTEXTS. PAGE 2 CHAPTER I. THE START 11 ui CHAPTER II. SAVANNAH 26 2c CHAPTER III. JACKSONVILLE 38 or 3 CHAPTER IV. JACKSONVILLE (CONTINUED) . . 48 CHAPTER V. JACKSONVILLE (CONTINUED) . ' . 52 M ^ CHAPTER VI. JACKSONVILLE (CONCLUDED) . . 61 g CHAPTER VII. PILOT TOWN 69 CHAPTER VIII. UP THE ST. JOHN'S 76 CHAPTER IX. DEER HUNTING 88 CHAPTER X. LIFE AT ENTERPRISE 96 !> CHAPTER XL THE STRANGER'S STORY . ... 108 w CHAPTER XII. THE WILDERNESS 120 CHAPTER XIII. - DEEP CREEK 128 < - CHAPTER XIV. ST. AUGUSTINE 138 460005 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. CHAPTER I. THE START. IN the winter of 1877 I contracted a severe cold, and as I had always desired to go South, persuaded my- self that I was going into con- sumption and that my health required me to go to Florida. I consulted a number of doc- tors, and they all agreed that it would un- doubtedly benefit me to leave Boston for a while, but none of them seemed to think a trip to 12 SOUTHERN KAMBLES. Florida necessary; some of them even spoke lightly about my cold, and after thumping me on the chest for a few minutes and listening for the echo,J;old me that my lungs were as strong as a horse's. Of course they were quacks, and did not know their business; so I put no trust in what they said, but kept on visiting doctor after doctor until I struck one at last who seemed to under- stand my case. After going through the usual exercises, he asked what was the matter with me. I told him I thought it would be dangerous for me to stay in a cold climate all winter, and had an idea that a trip to Florida would benefit my health. He said he thought it would be the best thing I could do. I told him I thought I should like to go soon, and asked him if it would not be advisable to get away at once. He replied emphatically that it would, and closed our inter- view in these words: "My dear sir, although there are no symptoms of actual consumption, yet, as you already have a cold, and as ? an ounce of prevention,' etc., etc., there can be no THE START. 13 question but what a change of climate could not be otherwise than beneficial. Five dollars, please ! Thanks. Good morning ! " On my way home I met Jack . Upon learning of my intended Southern trip, he ex- pressed a desire to accompany me. We dined together, and before we parted it was definitely arranged to leave the city on the following Thursday. The next few days were spent in buying a long list of things which Jack said we should need. We purchased all the books we could find which had anything to say about Florida; and the more 14 SOUTHERN KAMBLES. we read, the more anxious we became to visit the wonderful scenes which the authors described. All of them agreed in one thing, if they differed in everything else : the climate was like one eternal spring. Fruit of all kinds grew every- where, and was so plenty that the inhabitants were glad to have visitors walk about and pick it off the trees. It was a paradise for hunters; game of all kinds abounded, and the fishing was magnificent. I admired those books before I visited Florida; I admired them more afterwards. One of them was a gorgeously gotten-up affair, in paper covers, which reeked with illustrations of tropical scenery. Some of the author's de- scriptions fired us with especial admiration. Jack always carried one of those books with him, and whenever we visited one of the places described, he pulled it out of his pocket and read some of it. I got so at last that I dreaded to visit a place that I remembered to have read about. I could tell when it was coming. Jack would grow restless, and say, w Let me read you something concerning this place, it is interest- THE START. 15 ing"; and then he would drag out some infernal maniac's diary and commence. He never com- mented on what he read, but would hunt soberly , for the page, and then commence and read it from beginning to end without a stop, without a smile, always the same drawling intonation and maudlin expression, until the last word was read ; then his face cleared, and a load seemed to be lifted from his mind. He said he liked to get information about the places which he visited. It has been claimed that the English language is inadequate to convey to the mind a correct idea of an especially beautiful scene. I per- ceived this to be a fact; for the ideas which we had formed of places after reading those descrip- tions differed somewhat from our opinions con- cerning them upon our return home. The day soon arrived when we were to start, and nothing unusual transpired in consequence of the grand event. The city was quiet when we left. This was caused, I suppose, by our departure being somewhat sudden, and its not having got noised abroad that we intended to 16 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES. leave. Jack was in the best of spirits at the thought of visiting a Southern climate and en- joying some of the splendid shooting he had heard so much about. Our cargo of implements and ammunition was safely housed in the bag- gage car; and as the train slowly moved out of the depot into the darkness of the night, we felt that our trip had fairly commenced. We were still in a civilized country, so we slept well, and upon awakening in the morning found our- selves in New York. After breakfasting at the "Union" we procured a team and drove down THE START. 17 to the steamer to take a look at the state-room which was to be our quarters until the steamer arrived in Savannah. There appeared to be a delightful uncertainty as to the time of her arrival at her destination. The ticket agent had said three days at the longest. I have always admired that man. I found out afterwards that he had been employed by that line for years, and knew the running time of the boats by heart; and he knew that the old tub on which he smil- ingly saw us take passage had never been known to go anywhere in three days in the memory of man. Last year, while they were taking up a subscription in aid of the yellow-fever suiferers, I heard that this man was detained in a locality where the disease was raging. I then withheld my subscription ; but he came back safe, they always do, and during my last visit to New York I met him. He was as smiling as ever, and actually had the audacity to ask me if I was not going South again soon. I did not tell him that the only thing that would induce me to think of it would be his funeral celebration. But 18 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. I wander from the subject. The captain thought to make the passage in three days, if we had good weather. He had hoped to do that same thing for years, and if he only lives long enough he may do it yet ; but not on that boat. We were to have sailed at three o'clock in the afternoon; but it was midnight before we cast oif and steamed slowly down the harbor. It was a beautiful night, but too cold to remain on deck, so I sought the cabin in the hopes of get- ting a look at my fellow-passengers. A number of ladies and gentlemen were on board, and the cabin presented quite a lively appearance. Picking out a philanthropic-looking old gen- tleman, I found a seat near him, and after having glanced casually at the other passengers for a moment or two to give him a chance to open the conversation, remarked, " Fine weather." He dropped his chin, and looked at me over his spectacles. T Yes. Going to Savannah? " I intimated that I was, unless the steamer THE START. 19 stopped suddenly on the way, which I hoped would not be the case. ft Fine place, Savannah ; lived there off and on for the last twelve years. Been there before? " "No." "Family on board?" 20 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. "No." "Live in New York?" "No." " Boston man, perhaps ? " ^ Before I could answer him, some good instinct prompted the steward to ask if a valise and shawl which were lying on the table belonged to him; and while he was describing the person who had left them there, I managed to slip away unobserved. In the smoking-room I found Jack, who hailed me with, " Well, old boy, we are off at last " ; and after delivering this piece of valuable informa- tion, settled himself in his chair, looking the pic- ture of contentment. A slight rocking motion was perceptible, as by this time we were getting pretty well out to sea. Several young fellows on the other side of the room apparently felt it too; for two of them grew slightly pale, and throwing away their cigars, remarked that it was " about time to turn in," an attempt at sea slang which, coming from their whitening lips, sounded almost ghastly. THE START. 21 An hour later, when we descended to the cabin, we found it deserted save a sleepy stew- ard, who only roused himself long enough to inquire if we wanted anything. We made our way to our state-room, and by careful balancing managed to undress. Watching my chance, I jumped skilfully into the berth, taking all the skin oif my knees on a board which had been placed at the side of the bed, ostensibly to pre- vent the occupant from rolling out, but in reality to cause untold anguish and suffering to the unwary passenger. I lay there gritting my teeth, for I would not have had Jack know it for the world; but my feelings were somewhat soothed a few minutes later by seeing him, while trying to remove his under-garments, loosen his hold on a hook to which he had been clinging, and a roll of the vessel caused him to sit down suddenly, taking the stool with him. The upper berth had fallen to his lot, and while climbing into it another lurch assisted him with a sudden- ness which was probably unexpected ; for a dull sound from above, followed by unintelligible 22 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. mutterings, convinced me that he was either saying his prayers, or had tried to butt down " CAUSED HIM TO SIT DOWN. THE START. 23 the side of the state-room, and was thinking it over. Life on board a steamer is necessarily monoto- nous, and during the passage nothing occurred worthy of mention. Everything went along as smoothly as possible except the vessel, whose progress was anything but smooth. I believe the company expects three fourths of the pas- sengers to average one meal a day, and are greatly vexed if the weather happens to be so fine as to allow those passengers who are un- used to the sea to take their meals regularly. To pass away the time the u.sual games were indulged in, and the usual ennui was felt by everybody except Jack. He had insisted on taking an extra w sea chair " along with him, and I now perceived his reasons for so doing. Almost as soon as we were fairly under way he commenced operations. Jack's modus operandi were as follows: He generally kept his chair and the extra one chained together, so that they could not be used by any one without his permis- sion. After breakfast he promenaded the deck, watching the other passengers as they straggled out one by one, their pale faces showing how much they were enjoying the passage. After eying them with a critical glance, he would pick out the prettiest young girl he could see, and then walk deliberately up to her and offer her his chair. Of course this opened a chance for conversation, and generally ended by the chair being accepted, and the acquaintance of the young lady formed. If she happened to be accompanied by her mamma, he would offer her THE STABT. 25 his own chair, and watch his chance to get hold of mine. His "brilliant conversational powers," as the girls have it, usually charmed the mammas, and after that the way was clear. He seemed to enjoy himself greatly, and became a perfect lion among the ladies. It was pleasing to me, too, to observe the peaceful expression of contentment which overspread his features after he had told some more than usually outrageous lie and saw that he was believed. CHAPTER H. / SAVANNAH. morning when I went on deck, I found that we had crossed the bar and were slowly steaming up the beautiful Savannah River ; for it is a beautiful river. Its clear water resembles coffee as much as anything else; perhaps it would be better to say that it resembles a weak solution of very poor coffee. On either side, the river was bounded by a thick growth of reeds, and the only redeeming feature were the numer- ous flock of birds, which ever and anon rose and fluttered about for a moment, filling the air with their fresh and varied melody. (Patent applied for.) As we neared the city we passed numbers of small boats containing negroes, evidently in pur- suit of the ducks and other water birds which were constantly flying about. All the passen- SAVANNAH. 27 gers were assembled on the forward deck, enjoy- ing the view and their first experience of a Southern climate. It was a beautiful warm day even for Savannah, and the whole company was in high spirits. After we had landed and got comfortably settled, in a really good hotel, Jack and I started out for a walk. Our first impression of the city was not as favorable as I could have wished. Everybody we met appeared to have a resigned look of contentment. The city was as quiet as one of our !N~ew England towns on Sunday. After walking for some time, and not seeing any- thing worth seeing, we perceived a female figure coming up the street on the opposite side. Jack crossed over and sauntered along with his hands in pockets until she had passed. Then he re- crossed the street to where I was standing, and as he came up I perceived a look of disgust on his features which was not there when he had left me. I ventured to inquire if she was pretty. Apparently he thought this was adding insult 28 SOUTHERN" KAMBLES. to injury, for he looked me straight in the eyes for a moment, and then fired out his words as SAVANNAH. 29 though a steel spring was concealed in his throat : "Pretty! forty years old, and cross-eyed. Thunder and lightning! talk to me about your Southern beauties." "I am sorry that your first experience has been so unsatisfactory; but still it was an episode " f ? Episode ' ! Nonsense ! Hyena ' is what you are trying to think of; but I forgot you did n't see it as close as I did." He was evidently disturbed, and it was not until we had returned to the hotel and had become interested in a game of billiards that his face cleared, and he resumed his usual ex- pression of imbecility. One day in Savannah was all that we could stand, and it was hard work to do even that. It was pleasant enough to feel yourself once more on dry ground; but we had experienced that novelty before, and wanted something be- sides earth to amuse us. There is plenty to amuse a stranger in Savannah, if he goes around 30 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. quietly and does not try to do everything in a hurry. A person may find amusement any- where, if he only looks for it; and people differ in their tastes. It is a fine place for consump- tives. If they do not recover in a few months, their mind has become calm; they do not dread death. After dinner we held a consultation, and de- cided to start for Jacksonville that afternoon. Accordingly, we procured our tickets, and shortly after were arranging ourselves as comfortably as possible for the all-night ride before us. "We had engaged seats in the only drawing-room car con- nected with the train, and it looked as though we were going to have a pleasant trip of it. Almost immediately after the train started, the car in which we were seated bounced around so that it was impossible to read without injury to the eyes ; so after one or two attempts we gave it up, and fishing out a pack of cards from one of the bags, we repaired to the rear of the car, and bribed the conductor to bring us a substi- tute for a table in the shape of a piece of board, SAVANNAH. 31 which we rested on our knees. The motion caused the cards to slip around and mix them- selves up in the most aggravating manner, so that a very few minutes convinced us that the work was greater than the amusement. Jack was sleepy, and arranged himself com- fortably for a doze, while I commenced reading again; but I soon gave that up for the greater amusement of watching Jack's ac- tions. He had leaned his head on his hand, with his elbow rest- ing on the sill of the window, and was no doubt quite comfort- able for a few min- utes ; but soon the mo- tion of the car caused the sharp edge of the sill to cut into his arm, and he changed his position, but did not im- 32 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES. prove it. The sill was wide, and so to rest his head against the glass caused his neck to assume a position at right angles with his body. In a few moments this position evidently became irk- some, for he again changed it. This time he muttered something to himself, and sitting bolt upright rested his head upon the back of the seat. The jarring of the car soon caused the screw-heads on the top to bore themselves into the base of his skull in a manner not conducive to comfort. After this he gave it up in disgust, but cheered up somewhat when the conductor passed through the cars and announced that we stopped for supper at the next station. When the train stopped we left the car and walked across a platform to the hotel, where we were greeted by a woman who was standing on the porch with a vigorous salute from a bell which she held in her hand, and which had evi- dently been used as a cow-bell previous to the establishment of the " hotel." Entering a large room we seated ourselves, together with a num- ber of our fellow-passengers, around a smal' SAVAJSXAH. 33 table, and a voluptuous female of uncertain age demanded if we would have coffee or tea. We took coffee; and right here let me warn all future generations against ordering coffee on that road. Coffee is good in its way ; but the flavor of last year's beans does not improve it. I was glad I tried it, for otherwise I might have visited that place in future years, when I might have been in poor health, and I shudder to think of the consequences. They gave us eggs and some slabs of meat. There was some yellow stuff in a dish, which I observed several of the passengers putting on their bread. I could not imagine what it was, and asked the v. f. of u. a. to name it. She cast on me a glance expressive of pity and con- tempt, and explained that it was w butter." Jack tried it once (once is not often), and after looking at it for some time in silence and thought, remarked that some instinct told him that the person who prepared it was a woman of ad- vanced years. I did not ask him to explain, and he maintained a mysterious silence on the sub- 34 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES. ject afterwards. The cravings of hunger being satisfied, we repaired to the platform and walked SAVANNAH. 35 about until the conductor came to us and told us that the train was about to start. He then hunted up the engineer, and as that worthy entered the engine coop we climbed into the car and made our way to our seats. Soon after, being somewhat sleepy, we ordered the porter to make up our berths, and undressing ourselves we retired. I fondly believed that my troubles for that night were finished, but I was mistaken. Lying upon my side, I tried to sleep, but as my head resting on the pillow did not move much, and as my body resting on the hard bed did move a great deal, the position soon be- came irksome. The human neck is a gigantic failure as a substitute for a hinge. During some of the sudden jumps which the car took, I flew up and caressed the upper berth, and by the natural laws of gravity my return to the bed was more forcible than pleasant. Still I came to enjoy a Southern country, and I was enjoying it to my heart's content. A minister in the berth opposite me was evidently enjoying it too. I knew he was a minister, for he was 36 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. saying his prayers. He usually finished every sentence with the name of his Creator. During one of the sudden jumps he got as far as "Oh," as he soared upward, and the word w God " was jerked out of him as he returned to his berth in a most awful and blasphemous manner. I must have dropped asleep soon after this, for I dreamed that I was rolling down the side of a mountain, and kept rolling, rolling, until I became insensible. I was awakened at daylight from an uneasy sleep by the jolting of the car, and dressing myself, repaired to the back plat- form. There I found Jack and the minister. Jack was smoking a cigar in a gloomy manner, and seemed displeased at something; and upon my asking him if he had passed a good night, he merely snorted, and kept on puffing away in silence. It Vas early morning, and the dew had not yet dried on the leaves. The woods on either side of us glistened and sparkled as if covered with precious gems. We were passing through a vast forest of pines, and from the branches of SAVANNAH. 37 the giant trees hung great quantities of Spanish moss, giving the woods a very picturesque appearance. Every few minutes we passed along the borders of small ponds, frightening ducks and herons from their hiding-places with the rush and roar of the train * as we whirled by them. The morning air was fresh and cool, and we enjoyed the view until we entered Jack- sonville at a little after nine o'clock, strange to say only one hour and a half behind time. * The above sentence is good. Any one who has travelled on Southern railroads will appreciate it. " Bush and roar of the train" is exceptionally fine. 460005 CHAPTER in. JACKSONVILLE. JACKSONVILLE, city of eternal summer, how we had longed to see it; how we had longed to bask in its shady groves, and breathe its pure air ! Visions of sparkling springs gurgling through the fresh, sweet-scented verdure, over- hung by swaying palmettos, had haunted our thoughts ever since we had left the North. In our dreams we had fancied ourselves reclining beneath the shade of some sweet-scented orange- tree, eating the ripe fruit which hung about us gleaming like gold in the splendor of a Southern twilight, while birds of many kinds and bright plumage flitted around us, filling the air with their fresh and varied melody. I say we had dreamed all this, and I do not regret it. It is sweet to dream. Entering a stage-coach, we were driven to the JACKSONVILLE. 39 St. James Hotel, and after half an hour's hard work, with the aid of quantities of soap and water, we nearly regained our natural color, and donning some clean clothes descended to the dining-room, and had a really good breakfast. Jack became quite cheerful, and kept up a running fire of conversation with an elderly party who sat opposite. Just as we were about to leave the dining- room the door opened, and in swept a young girl, who was, as Jack afterwards remarked, " a tearing beauty, and knocked him all in a heap." She sat down at our table, and then commenced operations to arrange her clothes in a position to suit her. First she sat down and gave her dress a pat on one side, to be sure it was still there, I suppose, but almost immediately rose again and settled herself in a different manner. This time she seemed to have hit it, for she smiled sweetly to herself, and after fidgeting around for a moment or two became quiet at last, and stared squarely at me across the table. Being a modest man, I dropped my eyes. She 40 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. then transferred her attentions to Jack, who had A MODEST MAW. been looking at her fixedly ever since she JACKSOISTVILLE. 41 entered the room, his eyes having something of the expression of an animated corpse. After having viewed him to her satisfaction, she turned her attention to the waiter and languidly ordered him to bring an orange, and she would think what she would eat in the mean while. As I was not at all anxious to see her devour an orange, and as I was anxious to smoke a cigar, I left the table and the room. Jack followed me slowly, and when we had reached the office said solemnly, "In my younger days I used to amuse myself by staring our old cat into fits. I could frighten a baby into convulsions in less than a minute ; but I will bet my chance of wings hereafter that if that girl fixed her eyes on an Egyptian mummy, the mummy would have to cave in." We strolled past the garden in front of the hotel and continued on until we reached Bay Street, which presented quite an attractive appearance. It is broad and smooth, and is lined on both sides by large, handsome stores. A number of these stores are devoted to curios- ities, which meet a ready sale to tourists who 42 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. desire to carry home some little present to a friend, or as a memento of the place, and gener- ally prefer curiosities to anything else. Alliga- tors' teeth, stuffed birds, snakes, feather fans, sea beans, anything, in fact, in the shape of a local curiosity is always in demand. The dealers charge exorbitant prices for these arti- cles, and get them, too. Jack stopped in front of a large, imposing- looking store, the windows of which were filled with curiosities of every description, and wanted to go in. So in we went, and Jack with his usual bashfulness stalked up to a gentleman behind the counter and remarked that we did not wish to buy anything, and that we only came in to look around. The proprietor was very affable, and told us to make ourselves at home. There were quantities of curious specimens of natural history and art, and I should have enjoyed myself hugely rummaging about had it not been for Jack, who amused himself by tickling the monkeys, stirring up the snakes, or picking up the little alligators and examining JACKSONVILLE. 43 them gravely when some nervous elderly lady happened to be near him. Jack bought an alligator, and so did I. Mine lived for some time ; but Jack's met with a most untimely end. He was in the habit of taking the little fellow out of his pocket by mistake, when feeling for his gloves or handkerchief (when ladies were about) ; but one day he forgot to "take it out by mistake," when he 44 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES. happened to be lying out on the grass, and the poor little chap was crushed to death. Jack mourned for him long. He said he missed the friendly squirm which it gave whenever he put his hand in his pocket. When we returned to the hotel, most of the people were at supper; and as we took our seats at the table, I observed a short, sharp-featured man sitting opposite me, who had evidently just arrived. At the time of our entrance, a gentleman at the head of the table was talking to a friend of his, who was seated next the new arrival, about the "Wlnsor Hotel in Montreal, and stated that some Americans who were there wrote their names on the walls. At this the new arrival fired up, and remarked, " See here, stranger ! do you mean to tell me that Americans marked up the walls more than you blarsted Englishmen?" The gentleman remarked that there were peo- ple of every nation who sometimes did thought- less actions without meaning to do any harm. JACKSONVILLE. w But you said Americans." " They certainly were Americans." :f Well, that yanks the bun ; that does take the cake. See here, young feller! I'm an American. My name 's Brown, John F. Brown ; soap-fat man; north side Chicago. Everybody knows me there, me and Mr. Blank. You must have heard of him. He 's a flower, he is. He owns fighting dogs and fighting cats and cocks, and has fast horses and a nice little girl. That 's the kind of a man he is, and I'm his friend; and that's the kind of a hairpin I am. You swell 46 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES. Canada chaps think you can come down here and blow about your hotels ; but it won't go down with me. Why, I've been all over your country, and never saw a ranche worth marking on yet." The gentleman left the table, and Brown be- came quiet; but in a few minutes he fired up again, and looking at Jack, remarked, * When I hear a man talk that way, me, it makes me mad enough to eat a couple of eggs." We saw that he was hunting for a new victim; so as we had finished our supper, we rose and left the table in dignified silence. After half an hour's stroll, we returned to the hotel, and passed the evening playing bill- iards, so we saw no more of Brown that night; but early the next morning we observed him talking loudly to the clerk. As we passed, he was saying, w I should like to know what kind of a hospi- tal you call this, anyhow. That galoot in the next room was swapping coughs with the girl JACKSONVILLE. 47 over opposite, and between 'em they raised the We passed on, and the rest of the speech was lost. I missed him at dinner, and on asking the clerk where he was, was informed that he had left for St. Augustine on the morning boat to wake up the people there; "and," said the clerk, " he can do it." CHAPTEK IV. LIFE in Jacksonville is easy and pleasant. Occasionally, during the winter, the mercury drops to 30 during the early hours of the morning, and then the visitors don innumerable under-flannels, and howl about the lovely South- ern climate to keep up appearances. Every warm day that comes along, they hang their thermometers up in the most sunny place they can find, and sit down to write to their friends in the North. 'Happening to enter the reading-room one morning, I observed an unfinished letter lying upon the table, which had evidently been dis- carded on account of an immense blot which obscured the picture of the hotel which embel- lished the corner of the paper. It ran as fol- lows : JACKSONTILLE. 49 "JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA, Jan. 7, 1878. " DEAREST NELLIE : " I am sure you ought to feel highly flattered at receiving another letter from me so soon ; but I have been having such a perfectly splendid time lately that I wanted to tell you all alDout it. It is very warm to-day. I am sitting by the open * window as I write, enjoying the breeze, scented with the fragrance of the orange groves. Don't it seem funn} r that I should be sitting here writing to you, with the thermometer at 80, while you are " It broke off abruptly here. She was undoubt- edly a new arrival. An old hand would have gone down to the reading-room, nestled up to the stove, and written, " It is too warm to write, and really this languid climate seems," etc., etc. They all do it in one way or another when writing to friends at home who have not enjoyed the luxury of a Southern climate. Some of them crowd the temperature up a little ; but then, what is the use of being mean about a few degrees? Jack wrote a letter home about a week after our arrival, and I happened to enter the room just as he commenced operations. He had evi- dently been taking some violent exercise, for the 50 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. perspiration stood out on his brow in beads. The window was raised about a quarter of an inch (to ease his conscience, I suppose) , a heavy shawl was thrown over his shoulders, and he was writing as if for a wager. To crown the whole, he had hung his thermometer up on the wall, with the bulb about half an inch from the table, and every few minutes he would take the cigar from between his lips and rest it on the table under the bulb. Whenever he did this, the registered temperature was something frightful. HOME. JACKSONVILLE. 51 I asked no questions, and he made no re- marks; but he wore a satisfied smile as he mailed the result of his labors when we went down-stairs to dinner; and I could not help thinking that if the orthodox belief is true, and all a man's lies are recorded in heaven, the angel who has the contract for Jack must soon become a drivelling idiot, or take a partner. CHAPTER Y. A WINTER may be passed very pleasantly in Jacksonville. One makes pleasant acquaint- ances; visits numberless places, many of them worth seeing and many of them not worth going across the street to see ; possibly the latter pre- dominate. Jack and I enjoyed ourselves: the tranquil, easy life suited us, especially Jack. The more lazy the life, the better he was suited. We passed our time riding, boating, and sleeping. After dinner we sometimes adjourned to the parlor and sung awhile. "We sung duets occa- sionally, but not often, as it drew a crowd. I was once highly complimented on my singing. It happened in this wise: In the middle of a song a gentleman called who wanted to borrow some money of me. He listened attentively JACKSONVILLE. 53 until I had finished, and then sighed, "I could listen to you forever." I lent him the money. As a rule, people listened to my singing in enraptured silence and then went away. Some- times the proprietor would hurry in and ask me to stop singing, as there was a sick child on that floor. After a while I noticed that he generally asked me to desist, and advanced the sick-child theory, whenever there happened to be some new arrivals looking about the hotel to see if they liked it well enough to stay; and I came to the conclusion that he wished to impress them favor- ably by showing his tender-heartedness and solicitude for sick children. I did not like him as well after that. I do not like to see a man assume a virtue to increase his business. "We made many friends among the guests of the hotel, and were constantly making new acquaintances. One morning as I entered the dining-room I observed a gentleman and lady, whom I had not seen before, sitting at our table. He occupied the seat next to me, and we very naturally conversed together while eating our SOUTHERN RAMBLES. breakfast. After leaving the table, I lit a cigar and strolled up and down the^piazza, where in a 1 LOOK AT THAT CHILD." JACKSONVILLE. 55 few moments he joined me, and we were chatting 1 pleasantly together when I observed a nurse, leading two children, who was evidently just starting out for a walk. I said, " For heaven's sake, look at that bow- legged child! Why, his legs are like barrel hoops. Whose is it, do you know? " w He is mine." w Oh ! I mean the other one." f? They are both mine." I said something idiotic and tried to change the subject; but the conversation flagged, and in a few moments he excused himself and left me- Whenever we met afterwards he treated me with studied courtesy, but there was a coldness in his manner which I could not account for. In and about the city there are a great many pleasant drives, and good horses and carriages may be hired at reasonable prices if you make a bargain beforehand. Jack and I strolled over to a stable one afternoon and inquired the price of a carriage for the afternoon. The man named a pricq, but Jack interrupted him and said we 56 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. did not wish to buy the team, we merely wished ^ DON'T OWN A GLUE FACTORY. to hire it for a drive. It was lost 011 the native, JACKSONVILLE. 57 sarcasm has no more effect upon them than prayer. We did not engage a team then; but the next day I sent a boy over to the stable to get us a good horse and buggy. Tn about half an hour he returned, seated in a buggy drawn by an emaciated wreck of a horse, whose sides looked as though they had been passed through a fluting iron. * Jack said, "Did you tell him we wanted a good horse? " ' Yes, sah, he said this was just the horse to suit you." ? "Well, you go back and tell him that he has made a mistake in the parties ; we are not the proprietors of a glue factory." "Sah?" "Shut up!" Jack was evidently annoyed, so to save trouble I climbed into the team, where he followed me and took the reins. We woke up the wreck, and after dusting him with the but of the whip for a few moments, induced him to jog along at a reasonable rate. Poor fellow, he was so thin 58 SOUTHERN" KAMBLES. that his backbone rattled at every step; but we enjoyed the ride and the exercise. JACKSONVILLE. 59 Among the places in Jacksonville well worth a visit are the tobacco factories, where a large num- ber of negroes are employed in manufacturing cigars. Their singing is well worth hearing. We hired a number of them to come and sing to us in the evening, while we sat upon the porch of the hotel. I shall never forget the evening. It was a bright moonlight night, and we had been listen- ing to their rich voices blended together in the simple harmony of the negro melodies. For five minutes every one had maintained a perfect silence. No one wished to speak. All nature seemed at rest, and the peaceful stillness seemed HOME, SWEET HOME. 60 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. harshly broken by the sound of the human voice. Suddenly one of the negro tenors commenced singing " Home, sweet home," while the others hummed an accompaniment. When it ceased and died away, more than one young girl slyly wiped away a tear which they should not have been ashamed of; our hearts yearned for our loved ones at home, whom we were not to see, perhaps, for months to come. CHAPTER VI. EVERY day we heard people talking about the wonderful shooting which they had had in such and such places. Their stories were so large that before I visited the wonderful spots, I thought they were stretching the truth a lit- tle. Afterwards, my impression remained un- changed; but I was told that the year I was there, game was scarcer than any in the remem- brance of the oldest inhabitant. This may have been so; at least, as I had no way of disproving their statements, I gave -them the benefit of the ponderous doubt. Standing on the wharf one day, I saw a poor, broken-down old man, whose white hair and tot- tering steps gave evidence of extreme old age. As he passed me, I observed that he was fear- fully cross-eyed. His otherwise fine features wore an expression of peaceful resignation, as 62 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES. of one who had lived a good and true life, and was ready to die, when his time came, with perfect trust in his Creator. An old pilot, with whom I had been con- versing a few mo- ments before, touched me on the shoulder, and said, "Do you see that white-haired old party?" "I do." " Kinder cross-eyed." " I noticed that he was." " Know who he is ? " "No." ? Well, ten years ago he was one of the smart- est pilots in the place ; but he had one bad habit, and that was lying. We all tried to break him of it; but it was no use. Why, he used to com- mence light in the morning, and we did n't mind it much, sorter white lies, you know ; but JACKSONVILLE. 63 as the day wore on, he grew worse and worse, until towards night, if he happened to meet you alone, he would thunder out double-jointed lies eight or nine feet long without a break. But to get back to my story. One morning Sam, or KNOW WHO HB is? 'Salt,' as we used to call him, happened to be standing on the wharf, smoking his pipe before breakfast, and waiting for the steamer to get in. As the passengers landed, a young fellow fresh from New York stepped up to him, and asked him some questions about the place. 'Salt' took 64 SOUTHERN" RAMBLES. his measure, and opened light on him at first, to see what he was made of; but as the young chap seemed to swallow everything, he wanned up to his work, and in a few minutes forgot himself, and exploded an awful, compound even- ing lie on an empty stomach. He got about half through with it, when he was taken with cramps, and tied himself into two or three kinds of knots. He suffered awfully for nearly three weeks, and although the doctors pulled him through, they could n't get his eyes straight. His overstrained system has never entirely recovered, and now he is a broken-down old man at forty." This man bore a good reputation. The next day I happened to pass the house where he lived, just as he came out of the gate ; he raised his hat politely, and made a remark about the weather. At that moment a man passed by on the other side of the street, who looked like a candidate for a morgue. The ghastly white skin was drawn tightly over the high cheek-bones, and his deeply sunken eyes had a feverish light in them which was very unpleasant to look at. He was JACKSONTILLE. 65 very thin, and walked painfully, like one weary and longing for rest. As he passed, he coughed a low, hollow cough, with a wheeze on the end of it that sounded so tomb-like it made me shudder. i The pilot looked sadly after him as he passed, and muttered, " Poor fellow! poor fellow! " "Do you know him? " I asked. "Know him? I guess I do, poor fellow; it's awful to see what ambition will lead a man to ! " "How?" :? Why, when he landed here three years ago, he was one of the healthiest consumptives that I ever saw. He had an awful cough, and he used to shake the house so where he boarded that the other people would n't stand it, so he used to go out in the garden and take his morning practice; but although it was an improvement on the house business, it raised the deuce with the fruit on the trees. Some one up river heard of him, and offered him a large salary if he would come up and cough in his orange grove during gathering season. w He did it, and the experiment was an immense 66 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. success. He could clear a tree in three coughs, a w ^ Elfipfc and sometimes two if it was a still day. He got contracts everywhere, and was proud as a peacock JACKSONVILLE. 67 of his coughing. But one day some mean fel- low put up a job on him, by tying a lot of oranges on a tree, and then hiring him to cough them off. He went and exploded a cough that shook the tree to the roots, but not an orange fell. An expres- sion of sur- prise passed over his face as ' he fired another and another with- out success. Then he got mad, and tak- ing off his coat and vest, opened o n that tree in earnest. The way he raged and coughed and wheezed was something awful to witness. 7 68 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. w He killed the tree, but not an orange dropped. He kept it up till he swooned. As he got warmed up to his work, some of his coughs knocked him off his feet as if a gun had kicked him. He lost all ambition after that, and spent all his money in drink. Now he lives along by selling his body to the doctors. "Whenever he gets hard up he goes and sells himself to some new doctor, to be delivered at death; but if he keeps on getting thinner and thinner the way he has been doing lately, there won't be enough of him left to go around, poor fellow." He turned his face aside to conceal a tear which slowly trickled down his weather-beat- en cheek. I said, " Are you sure that is all true ? " "True! As I hope to be saved in the hereafter, it is all true as gospel. I saw it my- self." CHAPTER VII. PILOT TOWN. PILOT TOWN is situated at the mouth of the St. John's River, and may be reached in an hour from Jacksonville in any of the little steamers which ply up and down the river. We had gone there for shooting; and so, when we had stowed ourselves away in a comfortable little house, we unpacked our arsenal and spent the afternoon in preparing for the next day's slaughter. From the stories which I had heard concern- ing this place, I had some idea of not taking a gun at all, but intended to cut a stick and walk about clubbing the game to death. I gave up this idea and took the gun along, as Jack said he was going to take his, and I wanted to do an equal share in the carnage which was to take place the next day. The evening was warm, and 70 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. we sat out on the piazza smoking our cigars, in the quiet enjoyment of their narcotic influence and the mosquitoes. We listened for the croaks of thousands of night birds, but did n't hear any. It was probably not late enough. After a while Jack got sleepy, and proposed going to bed. Previous to retiring we looked over our ammu- nition once more. I filled several bags with cartridges, which weighed collectively about as much as a mule could carry with any comfort. Jack did the same ; and added all he could stuff in his pockets besides. He said he always believed in taking enough ammunition in a game country. All being arranged, we retired. I listened to Jack for a few moments as he moved around in the next room, and then I heard him climb into bed ; immediately there was a rattling sound, followed by some remarks. I was interested, and asked, "What's the matter?" " Oh, nothing, only the slats of my bed have all fallen out." I heard him get up and arrange them carefully, PILOT TOWN. 71 then all became quiet. He had climbed into his bed so carefully that I had not heard him. I wanted to ask if he had fixed things all right, but heard him murmuring softly to himself, and did not wish to interrupt his devotions. Night after night this performance was repeated, and as regularly he said his prayers. Sometimes during the night Jack became restless, and a sudden movement in his sleep caused a general discharge of slats; then com- menced a groping for matches, during which operation he generally knocked over half the breakable objects in the room, or tied his toes up 7^5 SOUTHERN RAMTBLES. in a knot on the corner of some box; all the time he would be rehearsing blank verse in a foreign language. I am glad we did not stay there long; for if we had I think Jack would have soon acquired a vocabulary which would have made a pirate turn pale with envy. The next morning we were * w up with the lark"; and after an early breakfast we loaded ourselves with ammunition and guns, and started up the road in the direc- tion of the woods. After walking for an hour, I had seen and murdered two little birds. I had heard Jack shoot once, and judged he was having as exciting sport as myself. By this time the * I have seen this remark somewhere in print. PILOT TOWN. 73 cartridges weighed a ton, and I sat down on a smooth stone in a shady spot to wait for game. I did not wish to rest, but thought that perhaps the noise of tramping through the bushes might frighten away the game. In about an hour I heard something coming through the bushes, and perceived Jack approaching, carrying a little white heron under his arm, which I after- wards learned he had found in the bushes, un- able to fly, and captured it alive. Observing me, he made a short cut to where I was seated, and lowering his head to pass be- neath a low limb, he put his face within an inch of an immense spider, which was evidently wait- ing to embrace him. For a second he remained stationary, and then fired the heron into the sky with one hand, while he dug a grave with his gun with the other. He then made the longest jump on record. Upon questioning him afterwards, he said that he was not at all nervous, but had simply dropped his things and stepped back to find something to catch the spider with. SOUTHERN RAMBLES. STEPPED BACK. After digging tip Jack's gun we started for the house, and upon reaching it found that dinner would be ready in a few moments; so piling our game upon the porch, together with the guns and ammunition, we wended our way to our respective rooms to enjoy the luxury of a bath. PILOT TOWN. 75 Some weeks afterwards a Northern gentleman asked Jack about the shooting at Pilot Town, and he said, "Shooting? Oh, yes; it is much better there than about Jacksonville." I noticed also he inquired the gentleman's address, but showed no desire to visit that city on our return North. CHAPTER YIII. UP THE ST. JOHN'S. A FEW days after the events related in the pre- ceding chapter, we were comfortably settled on board of a fine little steamer, bound up the St. John's River, touching now and then at some of the larger orange groves which line its banks, but making no stop until we arrived at Palatka. Palatka boasts of a good hotel, the Larkin House. It is one of the best in Florida, and is improved by contrast with the others one finds farther up the river. Jack and I took our guns and wandered into the woods for a little sport, and had our usual success, although Jack swore that he saw a bird. The next morning we again boarded the steamer and continued on our way up the rivBr. From, this point the scenery be- comes very pretty, and the river is so narrow that it is nearly always perfectly calm. A short time UP THE ST. JOHN'S. 77 after starting we passed the mouth of the famous [I V I \> ill! Oclawaha River (famous for its alligators twenty feet long, its beautiful scenery, and many 78 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. other lies which I have forgotten). Here the pilot told me about a " 'gator " which he had shot at its mouth; but he had been up all night, and was tired so that he did not do himself justice. After passing Lake George the river narrowed still more, and I killed my first alligator ; later they became quite common, and Jack and I killed several, the largest of which measured about twelve feet in length. At Georgetown we were told that deer were very plenty, tut somehow or other we did not want any deer, and so kept on our way up the river. It was night when we arrived at Enterprise, having travelled about two hundred and eleven miles up the St. John's. "We stopped at the Brock House, and liked it so well we did not change. Jack summed up the whole matter a few weeks afterwards, when asked by a gentle- man (who was going to Enterprise) where he would advise him to stop. r? "Well, the Brock House has its defects, and many things about it might be improved ; but if I were you, I think I should stop there." UP THE ST. JOHN'S. 79 "What other hotels are there in the place?" "Kone!" As I said before, we stopped there, and so did a number of other people who enjoyed the air, the butter, and the high prices as much as we did; perhaps more. The days were spent in hunting, and we found the shooting very good about Enterprise. Quail, snipe, deer, and alligators are abundant within a short distance of the hotel, and one may get very good sport by taking the trouble to look for it. Our evenings were gener- ally passed in the reading-room in the society of a number of gentlemen, who were there for the same purpose that we were. The evening after our arrival, as we entered the room, it presented a lively appearance, calculated to cheer one after a hard day's tramp. There were but four gentle- men in the room; one was asleep on the sofa, two snoozed in their chairs, and the fourth was doubled up in the corner smoking his pipe. We joined in the general hilarity, and after sitting there for a few minutes, our voices uncon- sciously sunk to a half-whisper as if in a church. 80 SOUTHERN KAMBLES. The gentleman who was lying on the sofa, and who appeared restless and uneasy, suddenly rose UP THE ST. JOHN'S. 81 to a sitting posture and relieved himself of the following speech : "Gentlemen: This sort of thing is played. Night after night we assemble here to pass the evening together, and what do we do? We plank ourselves in some chair and toast our shins, and amuse ourselves by swapping lies and gambling with the spittoon. Now, I move we have a game of poker." The motion being duly seconded, it was put to a vote, and carried by a large majority. During the evening Jack kept 'losing small amounts, until at last he had a hand which suited him; he kept on betting until his opponent .called him. He showed an ace full; his opponent showed four fours. Jack looked the hand al~ over carefully, and then smiled a sickly sort of smile, the kind of smile one would expect to see on the face of a doctor, who, while dissecting a corpse, had it rise up and shake its fist at him. He then said it was late, and he "guessed he would go to bed." Neither of us understood the game very well, 82 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. so after one or two evenings at it we gave it up. We did not dislike the game ; in fact we found it amusing, very, but expensive. EVENING AMUSEMENT. UP THE ST. JOHN'S. 83 The next day we received an invitation to wit- ness a cock fight which was to take place a short distance from the hotel. Neither of us had ever seen a real fight, and were anxious to witness an affair of that kind ; so ^t the appointed time we started for the ground, in company with several other gentlemen who had also received invita- tions. Arriving at the appointed spot, we strolled around and watched the operation of " heeling " the birds. The natural spurs of the bird are sawed off, leaving a stump on which to fasten the artificial weapon; around this is placed a strip of soft leather, over which the w steel " is pressed on and tightly bound to the leg of the fowl. The first pan* which was brought out were magnificent birds of the " Spangle " breed. Upon perceiving each other their eyes flashed, and they seemed to quiver all over with rage. Before being released they were allowed to peck at one another for a few minutes, to still more excite their passions. The moment they were placed 84 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. upon the ground they rushed at each other with blind fury, striking so quickly it was impossible to follow the blows. Almost immediately one of the birds dropped to the ground limp and life- less, with the steel spur of his adversary buried * in his brain. The fight lasted only eleven sec- onds. The victor was carried away and carefully looked after, while the unfortunate rooster was thrown to one side to make room for the next pair, which was then being brought up. These were even handsomer than the first pair. One was a large red of beautiful proportions; his opponent was much darker in color, and somewhat smaller. At the first rush the black was knocked completely off his feet and fell over on his back, but was up again almost instantly, striking sav- agely. Again and again the black was knocked over, but always managed to regain his feet before the red could strike him. After one of these falls we noticed that the red walked about in a dazed sort of way. His breath came with a gurgling sound, and the blood began to drip UP THE ST. JOHN'S. 85 from the end of his bill. An unlucky stroke had cut his throat, and it was now only a matter of time as to which would win the fight; his own death was certain. The red seemed to know this, for recovering himself he rushed savagely ^ at his opponent, and for a moment they fought as fiercely as at the commencement. They both fell together, and upon separating the black did not get up. However, a moment afterwards he struggled to his feet, and we perceived that his leg was broken at the knee. It was painful to witness the efforts of the brave little fellow to stand and fight. At every rush he was knocked down and cut badly; still he tried again and again, and one of his strokes penetrated deep into his opponent's breast. Again they closed, and this time the game little black did not get up again. He was dying, and when they lifted him up he was dead. The red stood with drooping head, his life-blood slowly dripping from his wounds ; gradually his eyes closed and he sunk slowly down, down, until he rested upon his side. Once he tried to raise his head, but was 86 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. apparently too weak; and with a gasp almost human in its agony, his muscles relaxed, and he lay at full length upon the ground, a conqueror, yet conquered. There was to be one more fight before dinner, and the gentleman who had invited us said that he was about to try a bird which he knew noth- ing about. It had been sent to him by a friend, and he intended to match him against one of his best cocks. In a few minutes the birds were brought up and allowed to peck at each other as A TERRIFIC RUSH. usual, to excite them. Somehow the new bird did not seem as ambitious as the others had been to be released, but when placed on the ground ITP THE ST. JOHN'S. 87 he struck at his opponent savagely. As luck would have it, his adversary's spur just pricked his neck a little. The moment he felt the touch, his whole appearance changed. His next rush was terrific, but we were unable to learn the re- sult of the fight, as at the time of our last view of them as they vanished over the top of a small hill, the pursuing bird had not gained sufficiently to admit of commencing operations. CHAPTEE IX. DEER HUNTING. had been told that there were quantities of deer in the vicinity of Enterprise, and Jack wanted to kill some ; so did I. The result was that we hired a negro who owned a family of dogs to take us where we could destroy one. He was a tall, powerful chap, all bone and mus- cle, and for a wonder we found him willing to work; what was still more strange, he did not promise to show us herds of deer grazing in close proximity to dense thickets. He said he would take us where he had seen deer, and where he knew deer sometimes went; but whether we would see one or not, he could not say. This saint's name was " Bunk." "We were going to an island which was situated about a mile down the lake. Some of the dogs did not want to get into the boat, but " Bunk " petted them with a DEER HTXNTLtfG. 89 club, and coaxed them aboard. On the way BUNK. down some of the dogs became seasick, and were 90 SOUTHERN RAMBLES. unhappy and miserable until we reached the !t/A,A k