IC-NRLF G. urban MI a mm. THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID SCOTTISH MOORS AND INDIAN JUNGLES SCOTTISH MOORS AND INDIAN JUNGLES SCENES OF SPORT IN THE LEWS AND INDIA BY CAPTAIN J. T. NEWALL LATE INDIAN STAFF CORPS AUTHOR OF EASTERN HUNTERS," "HOG HUNTING IN THE EAST," ETC. LONDON: HURST AND BL AC KETT, LI MITED, 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1889. All Rights Reserved. CONTENTS. PART I. SCOTTISH MOORS. CHAPTER I. PRELIMINARY AND EXPLANATORY DESCRIPTION OP THE LEWS AND OUR SHOOTING THERE . . .3 My Accident Still Devoted to Field-Sports Means of Loco- motion At Scaliscro in the Lews * Stomachs turned Inside out ' Among the Stags Our little Lodge A pretty Look-out ' The Long Island 'The Forest of Morsgail Hill of Caldershall Village of Einacleit Compensating Results for the Absence of Trees. CHAPTER II. DEER-SHOOTING . . . . . . .17 Stalking in the Caldershall Hills Three Johns Our Keeper John Ian John Mackenzie All unmistakably Celtic Craggy Knolls and Small Conies A fine View A good Stag No Time to be Lost The Deer are There, Captain !' 4 A Ten-Pointer !' I took Him as he Stood' She's got the Bullet !' A snap Shot The March back ' A gude Stag !' VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. GROUSE-SHOOTING 38 Our little Moor Good for Woodcock Eagles An Eagle's nest Harried Eagles 1 Eggs Eagles hunting Blue-hares Peregrine Fal- cons Wild Cats Our Milestone Man Tameness of Grouse in the West A Woodcock in October Snipe Pointers Habits of Wood- cockStrange Death of Woodcock Shot used Scientific Shooting. CHAPTER IV. SOME OF OUR FAILURES 59 Rifles and Shot-guns Our first Stalk A cautious Chase The Stag takes the Hint Escape of Wounded Stag Hinds Right and Left Lying Shots difficult Disappears on the other Side Some of our Failures. CHAPTER V. BETTER LUCK 71 A -400 Express rifle by Lang Sufficiently Powerful, and the Lightness an Advantage Good Luck near Mokhlut An open Stalk A running Shot and Kill The Caldershalls again Views A long Stalk and a fine Shot. CHAPTER VI. LOCH ROAG 89 On Loch Roag Lobster Creels Our Boat Good Oysters obtain- able Excursions The Narrows A baby Whale Stories of Whale Flounder-fishers Sea-birds Beautiful Gulls Neil Mac Ruari Story of the Mackenzies Exposure of Women on a Rock Seals Witches. CONTENTS. Vll CHAPTER VII. OTHER EXCURSIONS 109 The Sandy Bay of Reef Collecting Cattle for a Swim to Winter Quarters Pabhay Obstreperous Behaviour of a Curlew Fine View of Gallon Head Rabbit-shooting in Little Bernera Description of the Scenery Island Cemetery Uig Adders Marine Curiosities Congers Cuddies Finlay's Otter Story. CHAPTER VIII. FISHING IN THE LEWS 129 Loch of the ' Bald-headed ' Never saw a Salmon Sea-Trout A good Catch Capture of a Poacher The Blackwater River Salmon- fishing Only returned Once Empty-handed Grimersta Croistan Sea-trout Parr A Gale in the Lews. CHAPTER IX. A RIVER OF DEVON 146 The Exe as a Salmon-river Wonderful Capture of a monster Pike Two Hours with a Salmon My Salmon-rod A short Cast Major Treherne's Cast Trout-fishing A nice Basket A lucky Recapture Poetry of Fishing Otters Herons Moorhens Water- Ousels King-fishers. CHAPTER X. LAST VISIT TO THE MOOR 172 John Mackenzie a Botanist A cautious Stalk, but no Shot A long Trudge That Peat in the Atlantic ' The Lewsmen Only Vestiges of a fine Race Characteristics of the People generally The Crofter Question. Vlll CONTENTS. PART II. INDIAN JUNGLES CHAPTER I. SOME REMARKS ON INDIAN SPORT . . . . 189 Jungle-life Not a Record of Slaughter Only once Shot from an Elephant Mr. Moray Brown's pleasant Reminiscences Hog-hunting My first Pig My first Bear My first Tiger Shooting big Game a less simple Matter in Muzzle -loading Days. , CHAPTER II. HOG-HUNTING 198 A young Indian soldier's first Horse The Nuggur Hunt The Arkola Grove Sporting Conversation The Meet Beating Grove for Pig' The Pig difficult to Drive, wery 'The Run My first Pig The Squire's Danger The Day's Bag. CHAPTER HI. BEAR-SHOOTING 218 My two Comrades In the Jungle Tracking not in Vogue here Bears capricious The first Beat The Bear charged Straight at Us He makes Off We Find him Again We Bag our first Bear Potela Shooting in the Deccan Ghauts. CONTENTS. IX CHAPTER IV. TIGER-SHOOTING 243 Ahinedabad An impressive Scene In the Jungle again A bad Beat A Tiger at Last Hit Induced to Charge Bagged at Last What Became of the first Tiger ? CHAPTER V. ONCE MORE AMONG BIG GAME . . . .262 Arrival at Mount Aboo Offer of two Appointments I Select a Civilian Post I Join a Flying Column as Political Officer Go in Search of my Column, and come into a Paradise for Big Game I find Bears Panthers Tigers Bears A Beat in Rajpootana. CHAPTER VI. HOG-HUNTING 281 Pig not Shot in India unless in inaccessible Jungles Vigorous Onslaught of Boar My small Escort Captain Forsyth's * Central Highland of India ' Real Wood-craft A fine Specimen of Tracking A worthy Foeman A sorrowful Group A very large Boar at Last. CHAPTER VII. HOG-HUNTING IN UPPER SdNDE . . . .303 The Early Bird The Village of Aliwan Disagreeable Places to Ride over Early Start Before Daylight A Rattling Run Ad- ventures Upper Scinde not Equal to other Districts Pig good Swimmers My last Pig. ILLUSTRATIONS. To ! Ho ! SCALISCRO ON A CALM DAY - Frontispiece STALK OF THE TEN-POINTER To face page 31 THE FIRST WOODCOCK OF THE SEASON. LOCH ROAG ,, ,, 55 A RUNNING SHOT - - ,, 83 COLLECTING CATTLE FOR WINTER QUARTERS - ,,111 HOOKED ! LOCH CROISTAN - ,, 136 A HUNTING CAMP. (Frontispiece to Part II.) - ,,189 HOG-HUNTING MY FIRST CHARGE. THE DECCAN ,, ,, 207 BEAR-SHOOTING IN THE GHAUTS. TAKEN UNAWARES ,, ,, 234 OUR FIRST TIGER. GUZERAT - ,, ,, 253 RAJPOOTANA A SCENE WITH THE BEAR - ,, ,, 272 A SOLITARY HUNT. CUTCH 299 PART I. SCOTTISH MOORS CHAPTER I. PRELIMINARY AND EXPLANATORY DESCRIPTION OF THE LEWS AND OUR SHOOTING THERE. MY ACCIDENT STILL DEVOTED TO FIELD-SPORTS MEANS OF LOCOMOTION AT SCALISCRO IN THE LEWS * STOMACHS TURNED INSIDE OUT ' AMONG THE STAGS OUR LITTLE LODGE A PRETTY LOOK-OUT' THE LONG ISLAND 'THE FOREST OF MORSGAIL HILL OF CALDERSHALL VILLAGE OFEINACLEIT COMPENSATING RESULTS FOR THE ABSENCE OF TREES. MANY years ago, in India, a horse I was riding reared, fell back, with me underneath, and left me with a fractured spine. I eventually recovered my health to a great extent, but remained quite paralysed in the lower limbs ; and from that day to this have been quite unable to walk or even to stand. Apart from all considerations attending the abrupt and early termination of a career, at that time, not without some little future promise, this terrible accident was in other respects, not unnaturally, a source of grievous trouble ; for I was an active man, and devoted to field-sports. 132 4 MEANS OF LOCOMOTION. As time went on, and I became more habituated to the new conditions of my life, and the depriva- tion with which the All-Wise had seen fit to visit me, I essayed what, at first, I had not ventured to think possible. I fished a little from a well-cushioned wheel- chair at accessible places in the lake country. Then I got bolder, and tried some of the Suther- landshire lakes, and actually killed a salmon in the river Shin, all either from chair or from a stretcher, on which I reclined in a boat. Waxing bolder still, I cast about for some means which would abolish the necessity of being lifted about in a man's arms when moved from one position to another. This was very trying and disagreeable, especially when travelling, or at other times, in public. After considerable cogitation and exchange of ideas with a country carriage-maker in a small way, I devised a sort of little iron frame-work chair, without hind-legs, which would receive my cushions and myself, and be capable of being placed on an ordinary chair, or transferred, with me still sitting in it, to carriage, cab, or railway carriage. Having succeeded so far, it occurred to me that, by SHOOTING UNDER DIFFICULTIES. O attaching this chair to poles, and placing men between those poles, I might, by means of their legs, in some measure provide substitutes for my own, and be carried to places unattainable by chair. The possibility of riding a pony had occurred to me, and I had a chair-saddle specially constructed ; but I could not provide the neces- sary support, not having the power to sit upright without support, and, practically, I found it im- possible, and was obliged to discard all idea of locomotion in that direction. With regard to the poles, however, I fully suc- ceeded. With one man in the shafts, so to speak, in front, and one similarly placed behind, with two, one on each side, to assist the latter, he having the principal weight, I can manage to ascend high hills, and get carried to places and over ground which would have been quite in- accessible to a pony. In fine, I shoot over dogs, and even stalk deer with success, though of course it is shooting under difficulties. These details are necessary, in order to let the reader understand the conditions under which sport was pursued as narrated in the first part of this little book. Indeed, whatever interest 6 IN LEWIS. attaches to such is mainly derived from these. But, apart from this, it would indeed be to me a source of unqualified gratification, if the publi- cation of these details should prove the means of encouraging some other poor stricken fellow- sufferer to resort to some similar contrivance, by means of which he might once more enjoy, in however limited a fashion, the sports of the field, or even be brought into more immediate contact with Nature than is feasible when con- fined to the locomotive capabilities of a wheel- chair. Having thus, so far, triumphed over obstacles in the pursuit of sport, in the year 1880, in conjunction with my eldest brother, General Newall, R.A.,I took the little shooting of Sca- liscro, in Lewis ; and it is the incidents of sport arid out-door life there during the seasons of the following four years that I propose to describe. The most northern island of the outer Hebrides may appear a somewhat distant locale to select by a man in my position ; but one has to go far afield now-a-days, unless endowed with such means as render expense no object. Moreover, WHAT DETERMINED OUR CHOICE. 7 I had shot in Lewis, where the birds lie close throughout the season, a great object to one situated as I am ; I love a wild country also. Above all, on the Scaliscro ground, I knew that there was every chance of getting deer without having to pay forest prices. This it was, princi- pally, which determined our choice, perhaps I should rather say mine. I found that by taking a deck-cabin on the Claymore, or one of Mr. MacBrayne's other steamers from Glasgow, I got to Stornoway with far less change and worry than if travelling the same distance by land. With our own servants on board, we were able to get our meals brought to our airy cabin. There existed, therefore, no necessity to descend into the hot, whisky and food-stricken atmosphere of the regions below. The beauty, too, of the scenery, as the steamer threads its way among the various islands, repays one for many inconveniences ; for some of the finest scenery in Scotland exists among those fiords, with which the wild west coast arid its islands are so frequently and deeply indented. Once securely packed in my berth, I bid defi- ance to storms, for former experience in various 8 BLOWING HARD. seas had rendered me tolerably exempt from the mal-de-mer which so detracts from the enjoyment of ship life. On the whole, we made several of these little voyages with varying experiences. Only once, however, had we to face anything really bad, and on that occasion we came round the Mull of Cantyre in something very like a whole gale ; and to be on the Mull in such is an experience neither pleasant nor desirable. At Greenock, as in Glasgow, it was blowing hard, and many would-be voyagers declined to venture. I asked the mate, an old acquaintance, what he thought of it, and what it was likely to be round the Mull. 1 Weel, captain,' he said, meditatively, c I'm thinking it will no be just so bad as we expect.' This reply seemed to me of somewhat doubtful import a little ambiguous, indeed and did not bring much comfort to my anxious spirit. Neither did an observation I overheard one old sailor make to another, and I fear he did it in a spirit of fiendish malice, hoping that it would be overheard by many and sundry, for he actually chuckled as he gave utterance to the following TURNED INSIDE OUT.' 9 vulgar remark : ' There'll be a many stamicks turned inside out the nicht.' He was coarse, but he was right. Few escaped on that occasion, but it surely must be considered demoniacal to make such an observation in the hearing of the predestined sufferers. And yet I was weak enough, only last year, on a voyage to Skye, to give that old fellow not a bad old salt, in some respects the wherewithal to gratify his taste for whisky, because he knew me on my first trip to Lewis. But worse, perhaps, than the Mull, is Ardna- murchan Point ; and the Minch, the narrow sea which separates Lewis from the mainland, is sometimes very boisterous, like all these Hebridean waters. Before I proceed to record the deaths or escapes of stags, and other incidents, it may be as well that I should briefly describe the situation of our little lodge and shootings, a sketch of which is appended. It has, indeed, become almost classical ground owing to its lying on that Loch Roag, on the west coast of Lewis, where Mr. Black, in his ' Princess of Thule/ has laid the principal scenes of his story, and portions of 10 LITTLE LOCH ROAG. the scenery of which he has so graphically described. These form no unsuitable background for the beautiful Sheila with her salutation, i And are you ferry well?' Mr. Anderson Smith, too, has written a most interesting little work on the life, manners, and customs of the Lews people.* He was for some time resident at Carlo way, the other extremity of Loch Roag from Scaliscro, and has described that portion of it. The narrow fiord, however, called Little Loch Roag, seems to have escaped his observation. This runs for some three miles into the hills on the south, and is separated from the parent loch by a narrow channel at one point not one hundred yards wide, through which the tide, both ebb and flow, boils with all the impetuosity of a rushing river, and forms a sort of miniature ' corrievrechan.' Our little lodge was situated on the east side of this inlet about half-way up. Lewis, the Lews, the Long Island for by each it is indifferently known is, roughly speaking, sixty miles long from Butt of Lewis to Harris Sound, and about half that number broad in the * Lewsiana. THE SCALISCRO GROUND. 11 broadest part, from Gallon Head on the west to Cabay Point on the east. The natives, I think, more commonly adopt the second title, but many, and Scott among them, the last. In the ' Lord of Isles/ he refers to it : ' And all who hear the Minch's roar, On the Long Island's lonely shore.' The northern part of the island is for the most part composed of wide, undulating stretches of peat and rocky moorland, broken by innumer- able lochs, but only diversified here and there by hills of any great elevation. This gradually alters as one goes south, and the flat moorland merges into small hills and rocky eminences. These, still increasing in number and size, culminate in the mountain ranges of Harris, which, though dis- tinguished by another name, forms the most southern portion of the Long Island. Most of the Scaliscro ground was composed of small hills of a few hundred feet in height, and these were broken into innumerable hillocks, or tumuli, affording fine stalking-ground. I believe it is principally in the Alpine solitudes of the Harris hills that the deer breed, but the lower hills and plains afford pasturage when the upper 12 FOREST OF MORSGAIL. hills are untenable by deer, so one tract sub- serves the other. The forest of Morsgail, which marched with us on the south, lies between Harris and our little moor of Scaliscro and the Grimersta shootings. More eastward, the whole or partially-forested shootings of Aline and Park separate it from the more northern portions of the island, which are principally grouse-ground. Uig, which, though not altogether forested, must be pretty clear of sheep in the higher parts very early in the season, affords a large number of stags from twenty to twenty-five, I think and lies just opposite to Scaliscro across Little Loch Roag on the west. All deer, therefore, must travel through Mors- gail before reaching us. The former is good for about fifty stags. In former years the late Sir James Matheson retained this shooting in his own hands for the use of his own friends, but of late years it has been let, and it was our good-fortune to have in the lessee a most kind and friendly neighbour, whose early death, since we left, many, like our- selves, have sincerely to deplore. Since Morsgail has been let and regularly shot, OUR LITTLE LODGE. 13 deer have become scarcer on Scaliscro, and good stags only occasionally run the gauntlet with safety and reach us, though hinds and young ones are frequently to be seen. Our little lodge had a pretty look-out across the loch here about a third of a mile across. Beyond the rugged shores of this was a tract of rough, but tolerably level ground, meeting some hills of moderate height. In the distance beyond these appeared the tops of the big hills Taival, Taminy-Sal, and others, rising to about fifteen hundred feet. To the left and south, and looking up the loch, which increases to three-quarters-of- a-mile in breadth, we have a grand view of the Harris hills, embracing the tops of Cleisham Langa, the Waterloos, other high hills being shut out by Sgonin and the intervening hills of the Morsgail forest, into some of the corries of which we could look from the height behind our lodge. Near the head of the loch, and separated from it by our south ground, stands the hill of Calder- shall Beg, about two miles from our lodge. Beyond this is Caldershall Mohr. both belonging to Morsgail. I call attention to these hills espe- cially, as my good friend Mr. H. J. had given 14 WILDNESS OF LOCALITY. me permission to try them for a deer or two towards the end of the season. They were toler- ably easy of access, and it is there I propose, in the first place, to ask the reader to accompany me on a stalk. To the north, looking down the loch, the only prominent feature was the rounded hill of Suai- neval. The crags and small eminences about the narrows, a couple of miles away, shut out any view of the open sea ; but this could readily be seen by ascending any of the tops behind the lodge. On the opposite side, a mile-and-a-half lower down, could be distinguished some of the huts of the village of Einacleit. On our side, the nearest village was at the furthest extremity of our shoot- ing, four or five miles away, while our nearest neighbours were the residents at Morsgail Lodge, about the same distance. We were about twenty- four miles from Stornoway, the island town, and nine from Garrynahine inn and post-office. It will thus be seen that my taste for wild- ness of locality might be considered as fairly gratified. One great and compensating result of the ARRANGEMENT OF MATTER. 15 entire absence of trees was that the scenery never looked wintry except from snow. The forlorn and cheerless aspect of bare branches and fallen leaves was entirely absent. The general colouring, too, was still bright in late autumn. The bent grass, which, for the most part, covered the sur- face of the country and mingled with the heather, in summer of a brown-pink hue, changed to yellow and orange as the season advanced. Later on it still retained a bright and cheerful colour- ing, as it faded to an orange-brown, so that the general aspect was very dissimilar to that we generally associate with winter's or late autumn's garb. I have endeavoured so to arrange my matter as that each chapter may be taken up and read as a separate sketch of sport or description of autumn life in the Lews. In Part II. each chapter simi- larly narrates some incident or incidents of sport in India, and details the circumstances under which they occurred and their pictorial sur- roundings. The illustrations are my own sketches, and will, I trust, prove faithful indications of the contents. 16 MANUSCRIPT WRITTEN IN 1887. Will the reader kindly bear in mind that the manuscript of this book was written in 1887. This is necessary to account for dates referred to. 17 CHAPTER II. DEER-S HOOTING. STALKING ON THE CALDERSHALL HILLS THREE JOHNS OUR KEEPER JOHN IAN JOHN MACKENZIE ALL UNMISTAKABLY CELTIC- CRAGGY KNOLLS AND SMALL CORRIES A FINE VIEW A GOOD STAG NO TIME TO BE LOST * THE DEER ARE THERE, CAPTAIN !' 'A TEN- POINTER !' I TOOK HIM AS HE STOOD ' SHE'S GOT THE BULLET !' A SNAP SHOT THE MARCH BACK * A GUDE STAG !' IT was on a roughish day towards the end of the season of 1881 that I availed myself of the per- mission given by my kind neighbour at Morsgail to try to get a good stag on and about the Caldershall hills. On our own ground we had only succeeded in killing a few unimportant deer without having secured one really good head. My brother had already left, and I had only waited with the above object in view. The island stags are small, and their antlers have none of the wide-sweeping proportions of those in the mainland forests, but still a head of ten tynes makes no despicable orna- c 18 MY FIRST STALK ON CALDERSHALL. ment for the hall even when thus limited in spread and size of branch. With eager hope, therefore, I drove off to the foot of Caldershall Beg, for the one road of that part of the country wound round its base and formed our boundary. At about one-and-three- quarter miles our lodge-road or track for it was not much better joined the main road, and less than half-a-mile farther on my men were waiting for me. At this point Morsgail marched with Grimersta on the east side of the road, and a burn formed the dividing boundary. The deer came nightly on to our ground between the road and loch, for there was some good grazing there ; but, unless a north-east wind drew them into the hills farther back, they seldom remained, but re- turned to Morsgail. A biting north-easter with hard weather was best for our ground. On this occasion it was exactly in the opposite direction, which was all right for the hills I was about to travel. My team soon had me out of the cart, and strapped and buckled all right on to the carrying apparatus ; and this is a good opportunity for me to introduce John, the keeper, and the different MY TEAM. 19 individual gillies composing my team, on whose stamina and effort my sport so much de- pended. John, now keeper on Scaliscro, had formerly been watcher on the Blackwater river at Garry- nahine, when Sir James Matheson retained that fishing in his own hands. Several years before, I had first made his acquaintance there, when he guided me to the capture and death of many salmon. He was short and sturdy, very keen after deer, and, knowing every hillock and stone about, was excellent in leading me by suitable ways to compass our stalks. A bit of a scholar, too, was John ; fond of reading, and passages from some of his graphic letters will probably hereafter appear in this little volume. He was married, and had a tribe of children. There were three Johns altogether with me. I shall refer to the keeper as John ; to John Ferguson, my leading gillie, as Ian ; and John Mackenzie, one of the side-men behind, I shall call by his double name. Ian had an important position in the shafts in front, for on his steadiness and lead depended my getting into a good position for a shot, and, c2 20 JOHN MACKENZIE. that obtained, on remaining quite calm and steady when I delivered my shot ; my range being confined on the left-front to an angle of some 45. If birds were sprung on the right, of course I could not take them. Shot rattled past his ear tolerably close sometimes, and at first he winced a little, but soon became inured to this, and confident as to my carefulness. He had acted in this capacity when I first visited the Lews several years before, and, being strong, was very serviceable and careful. His brother Donald, the other side-man behind, was a fine, good-looking fellow, with a very keen eye for deer, and lifted his cap, when courtesy so re- quired, with all the grace of the old regime, as contradistinguished to the quick jerk and sweep which is the custom now-a-days in more fashion- able circles. John Mackenzie an elder of the church, I believe was the cheeriest, most laughing elder it has been my fortune to come across. A sturdy, good-looking fellow was John Mackenzie when he first carried me for he too formed one of my original team but now, like his master, somewhat grey about the gills. According to c GOOD AND KINDLY FELLOWS.' 21 his own account, he i had not got much Eenglish,' but he had more than he owned to. Last, within the shafts behind, came Kenneth Smith. Silent and reserved, Kenny was thor- oughly reliable, and his opinions were, I think, listened to by the others with consideration. A tall, lean, strong man, he did me excellent service. They were all devoted to my wife, but I think Kenny was, perhaps, the most assiduous in brush- ing off any specks of dirt from her jacket, and in other little feminine attentions of that nature. He had no English to speak of. His vocabulary being confined to such curt expression as stag, shnipe, 4 ole cock,' &c. They were all good and kindly fellows, and we learned to regard them with a genuine and most friendly interest, which, I think, was reciprocated. All were unmistak- ably Celtic, except, perhaps, John Mackenzie, who may have had something of the Norse about him. John was somewhat radiant, but grave and solemn, as became the serious business in which we were about to engage. 4 I'm thinking the captain will be getting a shot the day, whatever,' he remarked, as I pre- pared to wrestle with my wraps before making 22 STAGS BEGIN TO ROAR. the ascent of the hill in face of the cold wind which swept round it in strong blasts. 4 Hope so, John/ I said. * Where do you expect the deer ?' 1 Donald here, he was hearing two stags roaring the morn, but it's in my mind that they are owre the march into Grimersta, but in this wind I expect there will be deer in shelter of Caldershall Mohr.' So replied John, as we got into harness, and prepared to verify or not his expectations. Alas ! the stags had already begun to roar, and the venison was likely to be a little too tasty to suit the southern palate. But it would not be lost on that account. Salted down, it affords good meat, possibly wholesome, certainly strong flavoured, for the winter consumption of the Lews man to eke out his humbler fare of meal and potatoes. A Highlander likes his animal food full-flavoured, and certainly stag out of season must meet his requirements in that respect, and be preferable to braxy mutton. Partly ascending, yet at the same time skirting round Caldershall Beg, we made our way towards the high broken ridge which connects the two OUR FIRST LONG HALT. 23 Caldershalls at their north-eastern ends. The craggy knolls and small corries about this ridge were favourite resorts of deer, and our object, in the first instance, was to attain a certain elevation whence these braes and Caldershall Mohr could be spied, keeping near the Grimersta boundary. This we did it for about a mile, when we reached a sheltered position behind some rocks, and made our first long halt. We had a fine view from this over Grimersta away to our left, where were to be seen several sets or small herds of deer, with one or two fair stags among them. But this was c banned and barred, forbidden fare,' for I had no right over that boundary. 1 Grimersta is fairly alive wi' the deer the day,' remarked one. To this John Mackenzie made some remark in Gaelic, which, owing to the approval it elicited from the others, induced me to ask what it was. 4 John Mackenzie will be wishing, captain, that all those deer were hanging up in Scaliscro larder/ said John, interpreting. 4 Fery goot, fery goot,' chuckled John Mac- kenzie, approvingly, making use of his usual form 24 BELLOW OF THE STAG. of assent ; but I told him I thought he was a very sanguinary individual, which only elicited more chuckles. We sat for some time watching the various little parties of deer, and the manoeuvres of the smaller stags to outwit the larger ones. But our own ground had to be surveyed, and John was just about to depart to try the land in front of our advance, when Ian called our attention to a distant roar, which I for one did not at first catch. That singular combination of other animal's utter- ances, embodied in the challenge of a stag, has a weird and mournful effect when heard in its native wastes. I have listened to it in the dark forests of Cashmere, but, to fully appreciate it, I think it requires to be heard mid the more bleak and desolate surroundings of a wild Highland moor. John paused. Again came the bellow, and, he declared, from under Caldershall Mohr. Taking Donald with him, he left me and the remaining gillies where we were, till he had made sure of the ground we should have to cross, and also as- certain the whereabouts and size of the stag we had heard. A GOOD STAG. 25 John was absent so long that I was getting anxious, when he and Donald were seen approach- ing us from below. He was very serious a symptom I did not, on the whole, disapprove. His story was brief. He had seen nothing among the small corries which lay between us arid the northern shoulder of Caldershall Mohr, but had sighted a small stag with some hinds under that hill itself. While he was examining the ground a larger stag had arrived on the scene, and driven away the smaller one. He was afraid the stalk was hardly negotiable by me, as their present position was very exposed just beyond a piece of flat which lay between the central portion of the extreme bases of the twin hills. The deer had been very restless, but had not moved far from the position in which he first discovered them, and had now lain down. The stag he con- sidered a good one, and well worthy of any exertions, if by any means I could be brought within shot. We decided that at any rate I should go and have a look at them, so we buckled to, and, still ascending, crept round various knolls, and through little passes till we had reached the plane of the ridge, and from behind 26 MATTERS LOOKING SERIOUS. the top of a little hill I was able to survey the ground lying between us and the abrupt hill of Caldershall Mohr. Yes, there they were ! A few hinds and a stag, still quietly reposing and quite unconscious of danger. But they were the best part of a mile away in a straight line, and no approach could be made directly from our present position. John asked me what I thought, and I asked him what he thought, and the result was that, in the hope that they would shortly move to a more favourable position, we would have our luncheon and give them time. This we did and finished our pipes, the wind being strong from the deer, and yet they had not moved. Matters were looking serious, for no time was to be lost if a shot was to be got at that stag. Every yard we went towards him took us away from the road, which it behoved me to reach before dark, for stumbling about over a rough moor in the dark was not a desirable process. I consulted the men as to their abilities, for I felt very undecided what to do. With deer in view, they one and all declared they would carry on to the utmost of their strength, and get the captain PROCEEDING TO ACTION. 27 a shot, and I knew they were really most anxious to do so. John was doubtful as to its being worth trying, for our stalk would have to be made along the face of Caldershall Mohr, the shoulder of which would have to be gained by our advancing under cover of the ridge, in the shelter of which we were now resting. The wind, it is true, blew right over Caldershall Mohr, but might come round either flank and possibly be at our backs as we advanced along its face. Besides, he pointed out, every step took us farther from the road ; but still I thought that he rather wished I would decide to try it. And this I did. We therefore lost no farther time in talking, but proceeded to action. We descended a little, and then kept in as straight a line as the irregu- larity and unevenness of the ground admitted, so as to reach Caldershall Mohr's flank. This was all plain sailing, and we effected our object without hindrance. It was now necessary to get another look at the deer, and a steep knoll, a jutting promontory from the shoulder of Cal- dershall, afforded a good position, while the men took another good rest. 28 * A TEN-POINTER, JOHN !' c The deer are there, captain/ said John, but' and he paused awhile * it will not be easy to get within shot, for they are in an open place. I could stalk them, but I'm thinking the captain will be coming in sight of them, for there are no braes, but jest slopes from the hill like. She's a ten-pointer anyway.' c A ten-pointer, John !' I exclaimed ; ' I'll have a struggle for it. anyhow !' So again we started ; John leading, spy-glass in hand, and carefully feeling the way. Once he turned and looked at me with a very mournful expression. I knew what he meant, for had I, too, not felt the wind at my back ? As we cautiously advanced along the side of the hill, at some distance from its base, we re- gained more confidence, for no fresh puff of wind had come round from the shoulder we were now rapidly leaving, and we had surmounted several undulations without exposing ourselves to the deer. Round every turn John first carefully crept, and surveyed the ground in front before he motioned us to follow, but the gillies had to stoop as low as possible in crossing some of these slop- LIKE A JACK-IN-THE-BOX. 29 ing ridges. Above us on our left the hill was very steep, while below was a flat, across which we had looked from our first position. As we got nearer and nearer, without being discovered, John's lips got whiter. He was very keen, and the excitement, while making him very calm, quite blanched him. He came alongside Ian, at one or two ticklish places, and placing his hand on the nape of lan's neck, pressed his head down. When relieved of this external force, poor lan's head not unnaturally resumed its normal position, and bobbed up again. Again was the pressure renewed, and the same thing occurred several times, like a Jack-in-the-box. I could not help laughing, though I, too, was by no means free from the excitement which pervaded all, and probably was as blanched as John. At last we reached a ridge in the neighbour- hood of the deer across which we could not go without exposing ourselves. John, however, wriggled himself over, like a snake, and gained the shelter of some rocks about thirty yards in advance and rather up the hill. After examin- ing the deer, he returned. ' Yell no get up there, captain, without show- 30 ; WAIT TILL HE MOVES, CAPTAIN.' ing yourself/ he said, in a hoarse whisper. c Ye must just tak them from where ye are. They'll no be owre a hundred and fifty yards from you this minute.' 1 All right, John,' I said, as he placed the rifle in my hands, and the men cautiously and step by step proceeded to elevate my chair, till I could just peep over the ridge. They effected this, and placed it fairly firm on the ground, supporting it at the same time, they themselves being on their knees, or stooping. My eye at once fell on the stag. He had not winded us, for, happily, the wind, and that very strongly, came round the further shoulder of the hill, and was almost direct from him to us. Still he was uneasy, and stood looking straight in our direction. The hinds were some distance beyond, and watching him. ' 1 must take him as he is, John,' I whispered. ' Wait till he moves, captain,' he replied. But that move, I feared, might only be a jump round and gallop off, so I decided to take him as he stood, though the shot was a difficult one, as he exposed nothing but his head and chest. In my situation, however, I was obliged to take LOOKING GLOOMY. 31 shots as I could get them, and not be very particular as to their being favourable. So I 'aimed, pulled, and fired. There was the ping of a bullet, such as it makes when glancing off a stone, and taking its onward passage through the air. I was rather astonished at this, for the deer were standing on mossy ground ; but the stag whisked round and galloped off with the hinds. The wind was so strong that the rifle-shot seemed hardly to have startled them, and they paused after galloping a few yards, apparently a little uncertain whether to run up into the wind or go down the hill and across the flat I have mentioned. The leading hind had already decided on the latter course, and was moving off. The stag turned, and stood for a moment, for he had evidently not made us out, and exposed his broadside, and I got in my left barrel. They then all galloped down the hill, he with them, apparently untouched. The men threw themselves flat on the ground, and I remained motionless, as we were now fairly in view. I felt well, as keen sportsmen do feel when, 32 ' HE'S HIT !' after much toil and perseverance and patience and excitement, failure is the result. John was looking quite miserable, and gloom and regret were depicted on the faces of all ; but not a word was spoken. The deer had reached the flat, and were coming gradually round, making for the ridge of hillocks which had been the sheltering ground of the first part of our stalk. I was watching them closely, and suddenly I fancied I saw the stag falter and go lame, but so slightly as to be merely con- jectural. Again I thought there was something faltering, something unusual in his gait. c Why, John,' I said, ' he's hit ; he's lame.' ' No,' said John, mournfully, taking no very particular observation, ' she's no hit.' 4 Ay, but she is, though/ exclaimed Ian, excitedly. ' She's lame, whatever.' John, roused to keener observation, took a look through the glass carefully and earnestly, and just then the stag, in jumping a little peat drain, stumbled nearly to his knees. 'What do you say to that, John?' I asked, triumphantly. John did not immediately reply, but his face c WHAT DO YOU SAY TO THAT ?' 33 relaxed. Apparently he was hardly yet quite satisfied, but it was not for long. 4 She's very bad,' he said, decidedly. ' She's got the bullet, captain, and no mistake.' The pace of the stag shortly became reduced to a walk, despite the movements of the hinds, who, after galloping on for some distance, stopped, and, turning, eyed their lord and master, wondering at his laziness. Gloom had now entirely disappeared from the aspect of all. Intense arid vivid interest took the place of previous despondency. To a High- lander the very sight of deer brings a refreshing excitement ; but a stricken deer, and stricken by means of their own exertions, meant eager thirst for blood. The poor stag had now stopped, and, with his back towards us, stood, taking no notice of the hinds. Poor beast ! His evident suffering moved me to that pity for the objects of my chase which habit has been unable to subdue. The men, however, felt none of this. Their emotions were limited to an intense desire to see the death a craving for i taking hair.' The late afternoon was drawing into evening, D 34 STRAINING EVERY NERVE. and we anxiously waited for the next move ; for we had but scant time to get back before dark. Happily, we had not long to wait. The hinds had galloped away, most probably having winded us, leaving the stag alone. He, after standing awhile, went slowly towards the hillocks and little glens of the ridge I have so often referred to, and right in the direction of our return journey. c Now, lads !' said John, c directly the stag goes out of sight, up with the captain, and run for your lives.' Minutes seemed doubled and trebled as the stag slowly and laboriously ascended a little pass, and at last passed out of sight behind a low hill on the other side of the flat. John instantly seized the rifle, and made off down the slope at the double, while my men speedily got into harness, and followed him at a similar pace. The hill descended, away we went across the flat, perhaps half-a-mile broad. 1 had often been jumped across peat drains, and hurried up to a point, but it took me all I knew to keep in my little chair on that occasion, for my eager carriers were straining every nerve. We reached A WEAK HURRAH. 35 the other side of the flat, but not yet could they rest. John was behind some rocks, and gesticulating to us wildly. We hurried towards him up the steep brae, and, as we neared, he ran back, put the rifle into my hands, and whispered, 'He's lying down on the other side in the glen.' There was no time to put me down when we reached the top, for just as I got my eye on the stag, lying down about seventy yards off, he sprang up and galloped off up the glen. In another second or two he would have been out of sight behind some rocks, when I fired a snap shot, and brought him down with a shot through the back. Perhaps the men may be forgiven for doing anything so totally opposed to cocker, but the true historian must relate that they gave vent to a weak hurrah, a feeble pa3an of triumph. I should hardly have thought that they had it in them, all pumped as they were. John was tearing down the brae like a maniac, and soon had his knife in the stag's throat, and finished what remained of life in it. We followed D2 36 THE MARCH BACK. more leisurely, and all talked, as John, after gralloching, proceeded to cut off the head. I expressed to the men my admiration at the way in which they had trundled rne along. Said Donald, c I wouldna have done it for my life, 'tis only for the deer.' The stag proved to have ten points, as John had said, and we found that my first bullet had grazed the inside, low down, of the right antler, which accounted for the pinging sound I had heard. The second had hit him in the body, and must have proved eventually fatal, though he might have lingered some time. The third, as I have said, caught him in the back. A whisky round, and we prepared for our march back to the road, on our way towards which our last run had fortunately lessened by half-a-mile or so. John with the head on his back, and holding it by an antler over each shoulder, and smoking like a furnace, led the way, a happy and contented man. I was by no means dissatisfied with myself, and the gillies were elate. And so I killed my first good stag in the Lews. It was followed by others, but I never got a better head.