or 440 H68 ding c used Whit Emb Boo HON. C write Forn Tick. Wo< THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES GIFT OF John S.Preli ES. Work. etc. Tools i Painting, g a Room. and Shoes. sewing and ted Boots Engravings The S'gn- he Simpler Signboard. ng Wood. i Spiriting e-polishing ors Stains. Diagrams lanchester Wire for sir Causes rmine the ire Motor. . ng. Tyres and Methods and Pioc< Dyn Dyn; Smal and Dim Unde Diagrams. C< ront Driver. Buildmg-a rcear-Kinving saiety. Building landem Safeties. Building Front- driver Tricycle. Building a Hand Tricycle. Brazing. How to Make and Fit Gear Cases. Fittings and Accessories. Wheel Making. ' of Fixing them. Enamelling. Repairing. Decorative Designs of All Ages for All Purposes. With 277 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. Savage Ornament. Egyotinn Ornament. Assyrian Ornament Greek Ornament. Roman Ornament. Early Christian Ornament. Arabic Ornament. Celtic and Scandinavian Ornaments. Mediaeval Ornament. Renascence and Modern Ornaments. Chinese Ornament. Persian Ornament. Indian Ornament. Japanese Ornament. Mounting and Framing Pictures. Wi'h 240 Engravings, etc. Contents. Making Picture Frames. Notes on Art Frames Picture Frame Cramps. Making Oxford Frames. Gilding Picture Frames. Methods of Mounting Pictures. Making Photograph Frames. Frames covered with Plush and Cork. Hanging and Packing Pictures. Smiths' Work. With 211 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. Forges and Appliances. Hand Tools. Drawing Down and Up- setting. Welding and Punching. Conditions of Work : Principles of Forma- tion. Bending and Ring Making. Miscellaneous t.xamples of Forged Work. Cranks, Model Work, and Die Forging. Home-made Forges. The Manipula- tion of Steel at the Forge. (Continued on next page.) DAVID McKAY, Publisher, 610 South Washington Square, Philadelphia. HANDICRAFT SERIES (continued"). Glass Working by Heat and Abrasion. With 303 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. Appliances used in Glass Blowing. Manipulating Glass Tubing. Blowing Bulbs and Flasks. Jointing Tubes to Bulbs forming Thistle Funnels, etc. Blowing and Etching Glass Fancy Articles ; Embossing and Gilding Flat Surfaces. Utilising Broken Glass Apparatus ; Boring Holes in, and Riveting Glass. Hand-working of Telescope Specula. Turning, Chipping, and Grinding G ass. The Manufacture of Glass. Building Model Boats. With 168 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents.- Building Model Yachts. Rigging and Sailing Model Yachts. Making and Fitting Simple Model Boats. Building a Model Atlantic Liner. Vertical Engine for a Model Launch. Model Launch Engine with Reversing Gear. Making a Show Case for a Model Boat. Electric Bells, How to Make and Fit Them. With 162 En. graving s and Diagrams. Contents. The Electr c Current and the Laws that Govern it. Current Conductors used in Electric-Bell Work. Wiring for Electric Bells. Elaborated Systems of Wiring; Burglar Alarms. Batteries for Electric Bells. The Con- struction of Electric Bells, Pushes, and Switches. Indicators for Electric-Bell Systems. Bamboo Work. With 177 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. Bamboo : Its Sources and Uses. How to Work Bamboo. Bamboo Tables. Bamboo Chairs and Seats. Bamboo Bedroom Furniture. Bamboo Hall Racks and Stands. Bamboo Music Racks. Bamboo Cabinets and Book- cases. Bambco Window Blinds. Miscellaneous Articles of Bamboo. Bamboo Mail Cart. ing Horns. Skinning, Stuffing, and Casting fish. P, eserving, Cleaning, and Dyeing Skins. Preserving Insects, and Birds' Eggs. Cases for Mounting Specimens. Tailoring:. With 180 Engravings and Diagrams. Co: tents. Tailors' Requisites and Methods of Stitching. Simple Repairs and .Pressing. Relining, Repocketing, and Recollaring. How to Cut and Make Trousers. How to Cut and Make Vests. Cutting and Making Lounge and Reefer Jackets. Cutting and Making Morning and Frock Coats. Photographic Cameras and Accessories. Comprising How TO MAKE CAMERAS, DARK SLIDES, SHUTTERS, and STANDS. With 160 Illustrations. Contents. Photographic Lenses and How to Test them. Modern Half-plate Cameras. Hand and Pocket Cameras. Ferrotype Cameras. Stereoscopic Cameras. Enlarging Cameras. Dark Slides. Cinematograph Management. Optical Lanterns. Comprising THE CONSTRUCTION AND MANAGEMENT OF OPTICAL LANTERNS AND THE MAKING OF SLIDES. With 160 Illustrations. Contents. Single Lanterns. Dissolving View Lanterns. Illuminant for Optical Lanterns. Optical Lantern Accessories. Conducting a Limelight Lantern Exhibition. Experiments with Optical Lanterns. Painting Lantern Slides. Photographic Lantern Slides. Mechanical Lantern S;ides. Cinemato- graph Management. Engraving Metals. With Numerous Illustrations. Contents. Introduction and Terms used. Engravers' Tools and their Uses. Elementary Exercises in Engraving. Engraving Plate and Precious Metals. Engraving Monograms. Transfer Processes of Engraving Metals. Engraving Name Plates. Engraving Coffin Plates. Engraving Steel Plates. Chasing and Embossing Metals. Etching Metals. Basket Work. With 189 Illustrations. Contents. Tools and Materials, simple Baskets. Grocer's Square Baskets. Round Baskets. Oval Baskets. Flat Fruit Baskets. Wicker Elbow Chairs. Basket Bottle-casings. Doctors' and Chemists' Baskets. Fancy Basket Work. Sussex Trug Basket. Miscellaneous Basket Work. Index DAVID McKAY, Publisher, 610 South Washington Square, Philadelphia. HANDICRAFT SERIES (continued). Bookbinding. With 125, Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. Bookbinders' Appliances. Folding Printed Book Sheets. Beat- ing and Sewing. Rounding, Backing, and Cover Cutting. Cutting Book Edges. Covering Books. Cloth-bound Books, Pamphlets, etc. Account Books, Ledgers, etc. Coloring, Sprinkling, and Marbling Book Edges. Marbling Book Papers. Gilding Book Edges. Sprinkling and Tree Marbling Book Covers. Lettering, Gilding, and Finishing Book Covers. Index. Bent Irpn Work. Including ELEMENTARY ART METAL WORK. With 269 tngravings and Diagrams. Contents. Tools and Materials. Bending and Working Strip Iron. Simple Exercises in Bent Iron. Floral Ornaments for Bent Iron Work. Candlesticks. Hall Lanterns. Screens, Grilles, etc. Table Lamps. Suspended Lamps and Flower Bowls. Photograph Frames. Newspaper Rack. Floor Lamps. Miscellaneous Examples. Index. Photography. Witn 7 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. i'ue Camera and its Accessories. The Studio and Darkroom. Plates. Exposure. Developing and Fixing Negatives. Intensification and Reduction of Negatives. Portraiture and Picture Composition. Flashlight Photography. Retouching Negatives Processes of Printing from Negatives. Mounting and Finishing Prints. Copying and Enlarging. Stereoscopic Photography. Ferrotype Photography. Index. Upholstery. With 162 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. Upholsterers' Materials. Upholsterers' Tools and Appliances. Webbing, Springing, Stuffing, and Tufting. Making Seat Cushions and Squabs. Upholstering an Easy Chair. Upholstering Couches and Sofas. Upholstering Footstools, Fenderettes, etc. Miscellaneous Upholstery. Mattress Making and Repairing. Fancy Upholstery. Renovating and Repairing Upholstered Furniture. Planning and Laying Carpets and Linoleum. Index. Leather Working. With 152 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. Qualities and Varieties of Leather. Strap Cutting and Making. Letter Cases and Writing Pads. Hair Brush and Collar Cases. Hat Cases. Banjo and Mandoline Cases. Bags. Portmanteaux and Travelling Trunks. Knapsacks and Satchels. Leather Ornamentation. Footballs. Dyeing L-ather. Miscellaneous Examples of Leather Work. Index. Harness Making. With 197 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. Harness Makers' Tools. Harness Makers' Materials. Simple Exercises in Stitching. Looping. Cart Harness. Cart Collars. Cart Saddles. Fore Gear and Leader Harness. Plough Harness. Bits, Spurs, Stirrups, and Harness Furniture. Van and Cab Harness. Index. Saddlery. With 99 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. Gentleman's Riding Saddle. Panel for Gentleman's Saddle. Ladies' Side Saddles. Children's Saddles or Pilches. Saddle Cruppers, Breast- plates, and other Accessories. Riding Bridles. Breaking-down Tackle Head Collars. Horse Clothing. Knee-caps and Miscellaneous Articles. Repairing Harness and Saddlery. Re-lining Collars and Saddles. Riding and Driving Whips. Superior Set of Gig Harness. Index. Knotting and Splicing, Ropes and Cordage. With 208 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. Introduction. Hope Formation. Simple and Useful Knots. Eye Knots, Hitches and Bends. Ring Knots and Kope Shortenings, 'lies and Lashings. Fancy Knots. Rope splicing. Working Coroage. Ham- mock Making. Lashings a.id Ties for bcaffolding. Splicing and Socketing Wire Ropes. Index. Beehives and Beekeepers' Appliances. With 155 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. Introduction. A Bar-Frame Beehive. Temporary Beehive. Tiering Bar-Frame Beehive. The " W. B. C." Beehive. Furnishing and Stocking a Beehive. Observatory Beehive for Permanent Use. Observatory Beehive for Temporary Use. Inspection Case for Beehives. Hive for Rear- ing Queen Bees. Super-Clearers. Bee Smoker. Honey Extractors. Wax Extractors. Beekeepers' Miscellaneous Appliances. Index. DAVID McKAY, Publisher, 610 South Washington Square, Philadelphia. MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS AND DIAGRAMS EDITED BY PAUL N. HASLUOK \FTS, ETC. ETC. PHILADELPHIA DAVID McKAY, PUBLISHER (510, SOUTH WASHINGTON SQUARE 1906 Engine** Ubrary TL PREFACE. THIS Handbook contains, in form convenient for everyday use, a number of articles contributed by a cycle and motor maker and expert Mr. W. Travers to WORK, one of the weekly journals it is my fortune to edit. The chapter on ignition coils is from the pen of Mr. G. E. Bonney, the well-known writer on practical electrical subjects. Readers who may desire additional information respecting special details of the matters dealt with x. in this Handbook, or instructions on kindred subjects, should address a question to WOKK, so that it may be answered in the columns of that journal, a P. N. HASLUCK. La Belle Sauvage, London. October, 1906. 733510 CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGE I. Frame for Motor Bicycle .... 9 II. Patterns for Frame Castings ... 10 III. Building Frame from Castings ... 32 IV. Making 34-H.P. Petrol Motor ... 47 V. Spray Carburettor for 3^-H.P. Motor . 97 VI. Ignition Coils for Motor Cycles . * .104 VII. Light-weight Petrol Motor for Attachment to Roadster Bicycle . . .118 VIII. Spray Carburettor for Light-weight Motor 149 Index . 15 ~ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. FIG. PAGE 1. Working Drawing of Motor Bicycle Frame . 13 2. Bottom Bracket . . 17 3, 4. Back Fork Crown . 18 5. End of Back Fork Crown . . . .19 6, 7. Rear Engine Lug . 20 8, 9. Front Engine Lug . 21 10, 11. Left-hand Fork End . 22 12. Top Member of Left- hand Fork End . . 22 13. Back Stay Eye . . 22 14. Front Fork End . . 22 15, 16. Patterns for Top and Bottom Head Lugs . 23 17. Seat Lug .... 24 18. Rear Part of Seat Lug . 24 19. Lower Horizontal Lug . 25 20, 21. Girder Tube Lugs . 26 22, 23. Front Fork Crown . 27 24, 25. Steering Tube Lug . 28 26, 27. Engine Plate . . 2 28, 29. Ball-race ... 37 30. Bottom Bracket Axle in Position .... 38 31, 32. Bracket Lock-nut . 3S 33. Engine Plate Belt . . 41 34. Vertical Section of 3J-h.p. Petrol Engine . 48 35, 36. Vertical Section and Plan of Engine Cylinder 49 37. Plan of Bottom or Open End of Cylinder . . 51 38. Section of Finished Pis- ton 55 39. Section of Piston on Line X X (Fig. 38) . 57 FIG. PAGE 40, 41. Two Methods of Jointing Piston Rings. 58 42. Piston Ring, showing Eccentricity of Bore . 58 43. Exhaust Valve Guide . 59 44, 45. Exhaust Valve . . 60 46, 47. Inlet Valve Body . 61 48-50. Head and Stem, Washer and Lock-nut of Inlet Valve . . 63 51. Spring Washer of Ex- haust Valve ... 63 52. Plan of Cylinder End of Crank Case . . 64 53, 54. Side Elevation and Vertical Section of Crank Case . . .67 55. Section of Gear Cover . 71 56, 57. Tappet-rod Bush . 73 58, 59. Valve-lift Lever . . 73 60, 61. Connecting Rod . . 75 62, 63. Union Nut . . 76 64, 65. Flywheel ... 77 66. Main Shaft, Pulley Side 78 67. Main Shaft, Gear Side . 79 68. Crank Pin . . . .79 69. Half-time Shaft . . 81 70. Tappet Rod . 81 71. Circular Plate of Tap- pet Rod . . . .82 72. Gudgeon Pin ... 82 73, 74. Tool for Cutting Key- ways in Lathe . . 83 75. Section of Engine Pulley 85 76. Locking Plate ... 86 77, 78. Exhaust Cam . . 87 79, 80. Large Gear Wheel . 88 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. FIG. PAGE 81, 82. Small Gear Wheel . 89 83. Inlet Tube from Car- burettor . . . .91 84, 85. Bottom Plate of Silencer .... 94 86, 87. Top Plate of Silencer 95 88. Tube for Silencer . . 96 89. Pin or Bolt for Silencer 96 90. Sectional View of Car- burettor .... 99 91. Cover Piece . . .100 92. Base Piece . . .100 93. Pattern for Gauze Cone- piece . . . .101 94. Bridge Piece . . .102 95. Diagram of Condenser Layers . . . .111 96. Longitudinal Sectional Elevation of Trembler . 112 97. Transverse Sectional Elevation of Trembler 113 98. Plan of Armature and Spring . . . .113 99. Plan of Trembler on End of Coil . . .114 100. Diagram of Coil Con- nections . . . .115 101. Diagram showing Working of Ignition Coils . . . .117 102. Section of Light-weight Motor Crank Case . 118 103. Plan of Light-weight Motor Crank Case . 119 104, 105. Crank Case Cover . 121 106, 107. Cover for Exhaust Cam Chamber . . 123 108. Section of Light-weight Motor Cylinder . . 125 FIG. PAGE 109. Half-plan of Light- weight Motor Cylin- der Head . . .127 110. Exhaust Valve Guide . 128 111. Exhaust Push-rod Guide . . . .130 112, 113. Exhaust Valve . 131 114. Inlet Valve . . .132 115, 116. Body of Inlet Valve 133 117, 118. Piston of Light- weight Motor . . 135 119. Gudgeon Pin for Piston 136 120. Piston Ririg Joint . 137 121. Better Form of Piston Ring Joint . . .137 122. Piston Ring Bored Ec- centrically . . .138 123, 124. Section and Eleva- tion of Connecting Rod 140 125. Shaft and Crank of Light-weight Motor . 141 126. Crank Casting . . .143 127. Section of Flywheel and Pulley . . .145 128. Exhaust Cam Shaft . 146 129. Exhaust Cam . . .147 130. Ignition Cam . . .147 131, 132. Section and Eleva- tion of Spray Car- burettor for Light- weight Motor . . 151 133. Valve Stem Guide of Spray Carburettor . 152 134. Section of Carburettor Throttle Stem . . 154 135. Pattern of Gauze Cone . 155 136. Induction Pipe and Union Nut . . .156 137 Plan of Union Nut . 157 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. CHAPTER I. FRAME FOR MOTOR BICYCLE. IN this handbook it is intended fully to describe the work of building a motor cycle, right from the pattern making, and not merely to show how to build it up from a set of purchased fittings. Of course, where time is a consideration, and where only one frame is required, it would no doubt be cheaper to buy a set of standard frame fittings and put these together ; but thousands of workers possess sufficient skill to make their own patterns, and to work up the castings, from the instructions given in this handbook instructions that will be specially useful to homeworkers who have more time than cash to spare, and to small makers and repairers who may have to construct several frames during the season. Any reader will be able to build the frame from a set of finished fittings, as the design is a standard one. The illustrations show finished sizes of castings, etc., when machined, and not the pattern sizes. To those who have built ordinary cycle frames (work which is fully described in a companion handbook, " Cycle Building and Repairing ") no difficulty should be found in building a frame for a motor cycle. Much of the work is the same, and the various fittings differ very little from those of an ordinary cycle. The tubes and most 1 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. of the lugs are certainly heavier and stouter ; therefore proper brazing facilities must be at hand. A lamp or blowpipe which is only just powerful enough to braze a light cycle lug will probably fail to braze the rear engine lug, which is somewhat heavy and large, or the rear portion of the bottom bracket, where it is joined to the back fork bridge by the If-in. tube. Dimensions. The two wheels are 28 in. by 2 in. 2j in. w 7 ould be preferable if a powerful engine is fitted, the larger diameter of tyres tending to lessen vibration, thus adding much to the comfort of riding. The frame measures 2 ft. from the top of the seat lug to the centre of the bracket. This height of frame is suitable for riders not less than 5 ft. 7 in. in height ; a rider not more than 5 ft. 6 in. would be better suited with a 23-in. frame. This will mean a corresponding shorten- ing of the head tube (to retain the horizontal position of the top tube) and the front girder tube. The main-frame tubes are of lg-in. diameter, with head tube 1^ in. The back forks and back stays are of D-section, cranked out on the left-hand side of the machine, looking from the back, to give clearance to the belt and belt rim; or patterns can be made for the cranked portion, and malleable castings used for these parts. It will probably be found prefer- able to use cranked tubes, which can be purchased ready bent, rather than go to the trouble of mak- ing patterns for them; these will be lighter and easier to fit up, besides lessening the amount of pattern-making necessary. The front forks are oval in section, with gir- der tube* | in. round, swaged down to A in. at each end. The front fork tube is of l g -in. dia- meter, and should be stoutly butted at the crown end to at least No. 13 or No. 14 gauge. FRAME FOR MOTOR BICYCLE. 11- The handle-bar should be of good width, upturned, and brought well back towards the saddle. This frame is suitable for an engine up to 3j h.p., this being the largest it is advisable to go to with air cooling. With a 3i-h.p. engine, the frame would be suitable for use with a trailer, side car, or fore car. Wheels. The wheels should be built up with No. 12 or No. 13 gauge spokes; if for use with a fore car, the rear wheel should be built of No. 12 gauge at least. The hubs had better be purchased ; an Eadie coaster motor hub for the back, and an ordinary motor front hub, with f-in. spindle, will be suitable. The Eadie hub, with a front wheel rim brake, will give all the braking power re- quired. Drive. The drive is by |-in. V-belt, if for use as a single; or -in., or even 1-in., for use with a fore car. The design and position of the engine allows of a good long belt being used. Cranks should be 7-in. throw, and gear low, about 54 in. or 56 in. A suitable engine gear will be a ratio of about 5j to 1 for all-round work with a trailer or fore car, or as single about 5 to 1 say 4-in. engine pulley with a 20-in. rim pulley. The size of the pulley on the rim must be decided upon before building the frame, to get the proper posi- tion of the cranked portion of the back fork and stay. The position as shown in Fig. 1 (p. 13) is intended for a 20-in. rim pulley. Mud-guards. Ample mud-guards, 3j in. wide, should be fitted to both wheels, the rear guard coming through the fork crown and continuing 3 in. or 4 in. below. The front guard will bo best fitted in two parts, the front portion extend- ing some 9 in. or 10 in. in front of the crown, and supported by another pair of stays to the front wheel axle, besides being screwed to the front of the crown. These mud-guards stays must 12 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. be considerably stouter than ordinary cycle stays, and should be made of |-in. by g-in. mild steel strip, firmly riveted to guards with copper rivets and washers. Should it be desired to use 2i-in. tyres, the fork crowns, both back and front, should be made J in. wider than here designed ; and in that case 4-in. mud-guards would be prefer- able to 3^-in. Working Drawings. The first thing to do will be to make a full-size working drawing, as Fig. 1, in chalk, on the wall or floor of the workshop, where it will not be readily rubbed out. Start by marking an horizontal ground line. From a centre 1 ft. 2 in. above this, describe the circle for the rear wheel; 1 ft. 7i in. from this centre and 11 in. from the ground line will be the bottom bracket centre. Mark off the bracket, and draw in the back forks and fork end, at an angle of 64 degrees. From the back fork draw in the diagonal or down tube, which should be 2 ft. (or less if necessary) from the centre of the bracket. The back stay can then be marked in. Draw the top horizontal tube 2 ft. 7^ in. from the centre line of the down tube to the centre line of the head tube. Fill in the head tube and lugs, after draw- ing the steering line at the same angle as the down tube; 2| in. in advance of this steering line and 1 ft. 2 in. from the ground line will be the front wheel hub centre. The bottom front tube can now be drawn in at an angle of 56 degrees from the steering centre. The exact length of this tube will be determined by the size of the crank case of the engine used, but with an engine as shown the length from the centre line of the head to the centre of the f-in. bolt securing the engine to the lug will be 1 ft. 7 in. The tube and lug from the bottom bracket to the rear engine lug are then drawn in, the distance from the centre of the bracket to the centre of the bolt being 1\ in. The lower horizontal tube will be FRAME FOR MOTOR BICYCLE. 14 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. 7J in. from the top that is, 7J in. space between the two tubes. The stays which support the centre of the girder tubes are 2 in. from the centre line of the steering tube to the centre of the f-in. tubes. The mud-guards are arranged so as to give lj-m- clearance from the tyres. With this drawing carefully made, it will be easy to test the various angles of the patterns, and, when building, to see that the various tubes and lugs are accurately fitted together before brazing up. Tubes. The following are the sizes of the tubes and the gauge numbers : Top tube, 2 ft. 6| in. by l\ in., No. 20; lower horizontal tube, 2 ft. 2| in. by Ij in., No. 20; head tube, 6| in. by 1^ in., No. 20; down tube, 1 ft. 11| in. by l in., No. 20; front tube, 1 ft. 65 in. by lg in., No. 14; back stays, D-section, 1 ft. 8i in., No. 18; back forks, D-sec- tion, 1 ft. If in., No. 18; back fork crown to bracket, 3 in. by If in., No.. 20; bracket to rear engine lug, 6^ by If in., No. 20; front forks oval, No. 17 gauge for 28-in. wheel, to give 1| in. clear- ance for tyre; girder tubes (two), 1 ft. 11 in. by | in., No. 18, swaged to i in. at each end; steering tube, llj in. by 1| in., No. 16, butted to No. 13 or No. 14; handle-bar, 1 ft. 10 in. wide by 1 in., No. 17, which will take 3 ft. 3 in. of tubing; han- dle-bar tube, 1 in. by 9 in., No. 16; seat pillar, 8 in. by 1 in., No. 18; top of seat pillar, 5 in. by I in., No. 16. These lengths will allow for the ends being hollowed out to fit round the connect- ing parts, a method which greatly strengthens the joints. Wheel Base, etc. The wheel base of the machine is 4 ft. 7 in. ; distance from centre of bottom bracket to centre of engine, 1 ft. Oj in. ; back fork ends, 5j in. wide (to suit Eadie motor coaster hub) ; front fork ends, 4j in. apart. Tandem Motor Bicycle. It is not intended here to describe the construction of a tandem, but the work will not present difficulty to a worker who FRAME FOR MOTOR BICYCLE. 15 succeeds in making an ordinary motor cycle ac- cording to the instructions given in this book. It may be mentioned, however, that the diameter- of the tubes for a tandem motor bicycle with lady's frame at back will be regulated by the make and type of fittings used, but the gauges should be as follows : Bottom front tube, No. 14 ; down tubes, No. 18; top and bottom horizontal tubes, No. 20; head tube, No. 20; bottom bracket connecting tubes, if |-in. twin, No. 16, if li-in. single tube, No. 18; rear forks, No. 16; rear stays, No. 20; front forks, No. 17, with No. 18 girder stays; steering tube, No. 16, butted 12 at the crown. Cnater Lea and Co. make several designs of tan- dem fittings that would be suitable for the pur- pose. 16 CHAPTER II. PATTERNS FOR FRAME CASTINGS. Introduction. The method of turning out the pat- terns will now be considered. As making the core- boxes for some of the patterns will probably be the most difficult part of the work, these will be dispensed with as much as possible, and plain prints and cores used whenever practicable. If a number of sets have to be made from the patterns, it would be advisable to make proper core-boxes for those particular patterns requiring them. Wood for Patterns. One of the best woods to use for the patterns is mahogany, but well-sea- soned white pine is cheaper, and easier to work, and this, if well varnished, will stand a few sets of castings being made from them. Bottom Bracket. Fig. 2 is a side view of the bottom bracket; for this, plain prints and cores may be used. Turn up the body part, which is 3| in. long by If in. in diameter, finished casting, making due allowance for shrinkage and machin- ing. As only the two end faces of the outside of the casting will be machined, T a in. for machining, and another -J- in. for shrinkage, should be al- lowed. It is usual to allow about /V i n - ^ * ne foot for shrinkage, but with these small castings, where the length does not exceed 2 in. or 3 in., it will generally be found that what is lost by shrinkage is made up by the moulder " rapping " the pattern in the sand, so that as a rule it will scarcely be worth while to take shrinkage into consideration. In turning up the body part of the bracket leave a core-print at each end, in. PATTERNS FOR FRAME CASTINGS. 17 long by 1 -, s -g in. in diameter, rounding off the ends slightly, so that the pattern will leave the sand easily. Now turn up the three tube members to take the rear and front If-in. tubes and the l|-in. down tube. These members, when the castings are machined, should be T ^ in. larger in diameter at the extreme thin edge than the bore, and at the root, where they join the body part, quite fV in- larger than the bore ; this gives a taper to the lug of about 3 degrees. The core-prints for those members must be longer by about J in. than the depth the core is to go in the pattern, so that it Fig. 2. Bottom Bracket. may balance in the mould, being supported at the one end only, and not at both ends, as is the body core. The length of the If-in. members will be 2 in. from the centre of the bracket, and the l|-in. members If-in. from the centre. The core- prints will be If in. and If in. long respectively, and | in. smaller in diameter than the size of the finished bores for the tubes. These three members must be hollowed out at the ends, and fitted to- gether on to the body part at the angles shown in t'ig. 2, and then tested for accuracy on the full- size drawing before being finally glued and pegged on. All three members are fitted centrally IS MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. to the body. There must be no sharp angles where the various parts join; the joints should be rounded and smoothed off neatly. To one not used to this class of work, some difficulty will be found in doing it neatly, in which case sharp corners may be filled up with good hard wax, applied hot and smoothed off when cold. Care must be taken that all three members are at right Fig. 4. Figs. 3 aad 4. Back Fork Crown. angles to the body part. No provision has been made on this pattern for securing the bracket cups in position, as it is intended that these should be made extra wide, and fitted with lock- nuts to lock against the faces of the bracket. Alternative methods would be to provide a lug at each en$ for a locking cotter pin and nut, as in the B.S.A. and other brackets; or to fit a PATTERNS FOE, FRAME CASTINGS. 19 small set-pin and nut to press on to the bracket discs in this case the thickness of the bracket shell would have to be increased by fitting a small circular piece, about -^ in. thick, on to each end of the pattern, so that a good thread may be tapped in for the set pin. In adopting either of these alternative methods, the ordinary standard bracket discs may be used. Back Fork Crown. The back fork crown (Figs. 3 and 4) is a pattern for which it will be necessary to make a core-box, as the coring necessary is not straight and circular, like the bracket, but irregular in formation. The pat- tern should be made in four pieces the turned part for the If -in. tube, the body, and the two end pieces for the back forks. The turned part will be the same as the two large ends of the Fig. 5. End of Back Fork Crown. bottom bracket, except that the print will need to be only J in. or f in. long, as the core will be supported in the mould at two other points, namely, the two D-section parts of the back fork lugs. The body part will be made with the grain running across the pattern. After the top part has been roughly turned and the body cut roughly to shape, the top may be let into the body and glued up ; then again returned to the lathe, and the junction of the two and the top of the shoul- ders turned to shape as far as possible. The two D-section ends are afterwards cut to shape as in Fig. 5, and dowelled and glued on. The width of the crown over all is 4| in., and the inside width between the fork lugs 2f in. The finished size of these fork lugs (D-section) is 1 T ^ in. by -J-iin., and the core-prints should be the same sec- 20 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. tion, Jl in. by T 7 ^ in., and | in. long. The core-box is made in halves dowelled together, and must be carved out so that a uniform thickness of metal, about J in., is left all over the casting. It will require accurate work. The prints on the pattern must fit the core-box accurately when closed up. The two D-section prints must fit into the D ends of the core-box, and the l T 9 fa r-in. print must fit the other end of the core-box. The over- all length of the box is the same as the over-all length of the pattern (over the end of the prints), so that the core made in the box will drop snugly into the impression left in the sand by the pat- Fig. 6. Fig. 7. Figs. 6 and 7. Rear Engine Lug. tern. In turning the top part of the pattern, leave the end rounded, so that it may come away from the sand easily, and also chamfer off the two ends of the D prints for the same reason. Engine Lugs. The rear engine lug is shown in front elevation at Fig. 6 and in end view at Fig. 7, similar views of the front engine lug being given at Figs. 8 and 9. The rear lug is made in two pieces, and no core-box is required. The body part is turned to the dimensions given in the illustrations, due allowance being made for facing up the ends. The core-print on each end will be f in. in diameter by | in. long. The right- PATTERNS FOR FRAME CASTINGS. 21 angle member to take the If-in. tube will be the same as the large members on the bracket pattern, the same instructions also applying as regards the filling up sharp corners and the length of the core-print to balance the core in the mould. The front engine lug is the same as the rear engine lug, only the right-angle member is to receive l|-in. tubing instead of l|-in., and must be made smaller to correspond. Eear Fork Ends. Fig. 10 shows one of the rear fork ends (left-hand side), Fig. 11 being an end view to show the section. This pattern may ..J-...JI Fig. 8. Fipr. 9. Figs. 8 and 9. Front Engine Lug. be made in two pieces, the main part being a piece of 3^ in. by' 1-^ in. by ^ in., the grain running with the length. The slot for the spin- dle should be made 1|- in. by /^ in. full, or ^ in. bare, to allow filing out to i in. in the casting. The D-section end for the b-ck fork is 1 T ^ in. by -},V in., the same as the ends of the back fork crown (see Fig. 5). The top portion, for the top backstay, is made from a separate piece, and is dovetailed and glued on, the D being T |- in. by y 9 ^ in. finished size (see Fig. 12). The centre of both D portions is cut out for lightness. The fork end is ^V in. thick, the raised portion being 22 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. formed by cutting out to shape two thin slips of wood and gluing in place, making the com- bined thickness at this part J in. The ends may be left square or rounded, as shown in the end view, Fig. 11, to receive the chain adjusters. It will be necessary to make another pattern to pair with this, for the right-hand side, unless the top portion is made detachable, so that it can be fitted on to the other side of the pattern to form Fi-r- 10. Fig. 11. Fijrs. 10 and 11. Left-hand Fork End. Fig. 12. Top Member of Left-hand Fork End. Fig. 13. -Back Stay Eye. Fig. 14. Front Fork End. the right-hand fork end. The square edges of both outside and inside slots should be chamfered off to leave the sand, also the centre of the D parts where it is hollowed out. Top Stay Eye. The top stay eye is shown at Fig. 13. It is of D-section, and of the same dimensions as the top part of the fork end (see Fig. 12). The round end is f in. by T 3 (T in. thick, with the hole f in. finished sizes. Two of these PATTERNS FOR FRAME CASTINGS. 23 castings will be required, but, being exactly alike, only one pattern is necessary. Front Fork Ends. Two front fork ends (Fig. 14) will be required, but as there is so little differ- ence in their construction, one pattern may be used for both. The only difference in the finished fork ends is the angle of the two projections with the flat face ; as this angle is so small (about Fig. 16. Figs. 15 and 16. Patterns for Top and Bottom Head Lugs. 3 or 4 degrees), it can be obtained by making the pattern with no angle and bending the casting to suit. The pattern may be cut from a single piece. The flat portion (to take the wheel spin- dle) is i in. thick, the f-in. circular portion, which is recessed T \ in. deep, being left to be done on the casting. The slot is i in. wide, but it will be better to leave this part solid, and either saw or file out the slot after the f-in. hole and the f-in. 24 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. recess have been machined in the casting. The part A is oval in shape, f in. by f in., to receive the bottom of the oval front fork; and the round portion B is f in. in diameter, to receive the lower end of the girder tube. The angle of these two lugs will be best obtained from the full-size drawing. Top and Bottom Head Lugs. The top and bottom head lugs (Figs. 15 and 16) are very simi- lar patterns, the only difference being in the angle and the increased length of the bottom lug. They are each made from two turned parts, glued and pegged together at the angles shown, 112 degrees for the top lug and 56 degrees for the Fig. 17. Seat Lug. Fig. 18. Hear Part of Seat Lug. bottom lug. Both these patterns should have a core-box to get the cored part as shown by the dotted lines, in which case the print at the large end would be l^f in. in diameter by i in. long; this would be allowing ^ in. for finishing the casting to 1-|>- in. inside at the end. The diameter of the prints at the other two ends is l y L in. and l-j 3 ^- in. by i in. long. If it is decided to do with- out core-boxes for these two patterns, the larger part will have to be plain-cored right through l T 3 ^in., leaving the recessed portion for the ball- race to be machined out of the casting. The diameter of the print for the lg-in. tubes is the same as for the core-boxes, but the length is differ- ent. The core being supported in the mould at PATTERNS FOR FRAME CASTINGS. 25 one end only, the print must be longer on the pattern than the depth to be cored. Thus the pvint for the top head lug should be l\ in. long, //and that for the bottom 1| in. long. // Seat Lug. The seat lug (Fig. 17) is made from / two turned parts; the rear part, to take the f-in. bolt, is cut out by hand, similar in shape to Fig. 18, and glued and pegged on. Turn the centre part for the down tube 1 T 5 ^ in. in diameter in the centre, tapering to 1 -^ in. at each end by If in. long, the print standing out i in. at each end by l T V-in. in diameter. The front portion for the top tube is ly\- in. in diameter at the extreme Fig. 19. Lower Horizontal Lug. edge, tapering up at about 3 degrees of taper. The core-print for this member is 1 T \ in. in diameter by If in. long. The rear part is cored out f in., as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 18, and will require a print of this diameter, standing out i in. at each end. Lower Horizontal Lugs. The patterns for the two lower horizontal lugs (Fig. 19) are alike except in the angle, the one shown being 69 de- grees and the other 57 degrees. They are made from two turned parts, and each member is to take lg-in. tube. The parts are exactly as the main parts of the seat lug, the only difference 26 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. being the absence of the rear ears and the different angle of the front lug that is, 57 degrees. The same remarks apply with regard to the core- prints. Girder Tube Lugs. Figs. 20 and 21 are side and top views of one of the girder tube lugs. A pair of these will be required, but the difference is so slight that one pattern may be used for both. This pattern should be made with the grain of the wood running with the length of the pattern, and the prints glued and pegged on each side. The drawings give all dimensions, which are Figs. 20 and 21. Girder Tube Lujrs. finished sizes of the machined casting, so due allowance must be made for machining. The core and print for the oval part should be made as near the finished size as possible, as this has to be filed out in the casting. It will be necessary to have a core-box for the oval part ; a piece of fork tube of this size and section will answer ad- mirably. The length of prints for both oval and round holes need be only J in. from each side of the pattern. Front Fork Crown. The pattern for the front fork crown is shown in top and front view by PATTERNS FOR FRAME CASTINGS. 27 Figs. 22 and 23. It may be made from one piece, with the prints for the central core and two oval cores glued and pegged on. It is 4f in. over all, If in. deep at the ends, where the forks fit, and 1^ in. deep in the centre. The central core-print is l T Vin. in diameter, and the ovals, indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 22, Ij in. by i in. ; that is the full finished size, and owing to the awkward- ness of cleaning out these in the casting, it will be advisable to core them out full size, or very Figs. 22 and 23. Front Fork Crown. nearly full size. A core-box will be necessary for this pattern, allowing for a uniform thickness of - in. in the casting, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 23, except at the edges of the oval open- ings, which may be a bare / a - in. It will be noticed that a ring or collar is shown on top of the crown ; this is for the bottom ball-race to fit on. The core-prints need only project f in., as the core will be supported at four points. Ball-head or Steering Tube Lug. The ball- 28 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. head, or steering tube lug, is shown by Figs. 24 and 25, these being side and bottom views. It is made by turning the main part to the dimensions given, allowing for machining. The central core- print is ly^in., projecting f in. at each end. The rear part for the f-in. bolt is cut out separately, and glued and pegged on. It is l in. wide, and has a f-in. core-print. The two projections to Fig. 25. Figs. 21 and 2o. Steering Tube Lug. receive the ends of the girder tubes are cut out to shape as in Fig. 25, length with the grain, and the two lugs turned to shape and glued and pegged on. The prints are y 7 ^ in. in diameter by f in. long. The two projecting pieces being so light (only T 3 (T in. thick), they should be dovetailed into the main part of the pattern, as well as glued and pegged, or they may soon be broken off at the foundry. PATTERNS FOR FRAME CASTINGS. Engine Plates. The pattern for the engine plates is shown by Figs. 26 and 27, which are side and end views. Four of these plates will be re- quired. They may be cast in malleable iron from a pattern, but it is better to have them forged from mild steel. Should castings, however, ba used, have only the large centre hole cored, leav- ing the ends solid to be drilled out in the casting. Fig. 20. Fig. 27. Figs. 26 and 27. Engine Plate. This also applies' if forgings are used, as the exact position of. these holes can only be ascer- tained when the frame is built and the engine tried in the frame, with wheels in position. " Leave " on Patterns. This is all the pattern- making that will be necessary, and it only re- mains to get the required number of castings made from them at a good malleable iron foundry. All parts of the patterns must be nicely smoothed off 30 MOTOK BICYCLE BUILDING. with fine glasspaper, leaving no rough edges or parts, and care must be observed to impart suffi- cient " leave " to the various parts requiring it. What is meant by " leave " on a pattern will be understood by taking, first, a solid ball and then a solid square as patterns. The ball would be moulded half in each moulding box, the parting taking place exactly at the centre of the pattern ; thus, as all parts of this pattern slope away from the centre or parting line, no " leave " would be necessary, as this would be a perfect form for leaving the sand well. But if a solid square or cube is taken, some part of the pattern would have to be tapered off to enable the pattern to come away from the sand without breaking down some part of the impression, unless the pattern was moulded with a corner of the square upper- most, and the parting takes place at a point which embraces four corners. Whatever other position this pattern might be moulded in, some portions of the flat sides would have to be tapered off from the parting line to enable it to leave properly. It is only necessary to look at a pat- tern carefully and imagine which will be the most convenient position to mould it in, to see what parts require " leave." Painting Core-prints, etc. All core-prints should be painted black a little vegetable black mixed with varnish will do and the whole pattern given two coats of shellac varnish. This varnish can be easily made by dissolving brown shellac in methylated spirit, shaking the bottle frequently. Heat will assist it to dissolve, but great care must be taken, as the spirit is very inflammable, and likely to cause an accident if taken too near a light. The inside of the core-boxes should also be given two good coats of shellac varnish when finished. Making Plain Round Cores. For making the PATTEKNS FOR FRAME CASTINGS. 31 plain round cores, nothing beats cycle tube, and pieces of this to fit the various prints should be selected and cut to the required lengths. Where the junction of two cores is at an angle, such as the head lugs, seat lug, and lower horizontal tube lugs, the core tubes should be cut off at a cor- responding angle, and also hollowed out at the angle end, so that the coring may extend as far as possible. Oval Gores. For the oval cores also pieces of fork blade of the proper section will do perfectly for making the cores, and will save a deal of trouble in core-box making. Dowelling Halves of Gore-boxes. The two halves of the core-boxes for fork crowns, or what- ever core-boxes that are made in halves, should be fitted with two or three dowels to ensure the halves closing perfectly accurate ; they should fit easily, but without shake. Small brass pegs and sockets can be purchased for the purpose, and where the boxes are likely to be used much it is advisable to fit these, as the wood dowels soon wear with much usage. Metal Patterns. Where a large number of castings are to be made from one pattern, metal patterns, preferably brass, are made, and cast- iron core-boxes used. Dimensions on Illustrations. It must be borne in mind that all dimensions given in the illustra- tions included in this chapter are finished sizes of castings, and due allowance must be made for machining. CHAPTER III. BUILDING FRAME FROM CASTINGS. HAVING received the castings from the foundry, free them well from sand ; and should any castings have become distorted in the annealing process, correct this by careful hammering. Bottom Bracket. The bottom bracket may first be taken in hand. Chuck the casting in a jaw chuck, and bore out the centre part ly 7 ^ in. in diameter, leaving f in. at each end a full \^ in. to screw if in. by 24 threads. Face off the end standing out from the chuck at this setting ; the other end should be faced off on a screwed mandrel to get perfect truth ; but if carefully chucked, it may be faced fairly true by this means. The bracket cups should be obtained or made previous to screwing the bracket, so that they may be tried in to fit before removing the casting from the chuck. The cups should be a good tight fit, so that they can only just be screwed up with a peg wrench. The width of the bracket when finished should be 3^ in. Boring the Three Tube Lugs. The best way to bore the three tube lugs will be on an angle plate or an upright drilling machine ; but if such a tool is not available, the lathe will do, either by bolt- ing the angle plate to the face plate, or by hold- ing the casting in the jaw chuck. If the latter method is adopted, greater care will be necessary in seeing that the holes are bored at perfect right angles to the centre bore. With a true angle plate and the ends of the casting faced true, this will be ensured. The front member, to take the tube from the back fork crown, will be bored If BUILDING FRAME FROM CARTINGS. 33 in. right through into the centre, and the outside trued up. The lug to take the down tube will now be bored Ij in. right through, and at an angle of 110 degrees with the first boring. The rear lug is bored If in. at an angle of 64 degrees with the last boring. The various tubes should be tried in their places before the casting is shifted, and should be a good tight push fit in their holes. Holes for lubricators should be drilled f in. from each face, in such a position that the lubricators will be upright when the bracket is in position. If lugs for set pins, by which the cups or discs are to be locked, have been provided, these should be drilled and tapped to suit the set pins. The dimensions of the disc to be used with lock-nuts, and also of the bracket axle, will be given later. Back Fork Crown. The back fork crown cast- ing should be chucked in the jaw chuck and bored If in., as deep as possible, and the edges trued up ; or the ends of the D-section projections may be levelled off and the casting stripped to the face plate to bore this If in. hole. Whichever method is adopted, care must be taken to get the hole perfectly true with the D ends. Engine Lugs. The engine lugs should be chucked true, and the f-in. holes bored right through and reamered, the faces being turned up on a mandrel. They should measure 3^ in. over all when finished. The tube lugs should then be bored ij in. and If in. respectively, and the edges trued up. Front Fork Ends. The castings of the front fork ends will require very little machining. The f-iri. hole will require drilling, and the f-in. recess should be machined in the outside face of each with a peg drill or cutter. The slot can then be filed out to meet the f-in. hole. The f-in. lug to take the bottom end of the girder tube can be turned or filed as preferred. As this is a rather awkward casting to chuck, it may be advisable to c 3i MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. file this to fit the tube at the same time as the oval lug is filed to fit the lower end of the oval fork blade. Whilst these are being fitted to their respective tubes, they should be tried on the full- size drawing to see that the angle is correct. The two stay eyes will require drilling out f in. ; these may be drilled at the same time as any of the other |-in. holes. Head Lugs. Chuck the head -lugs in the jaw chuck, large end outwards ; bore through Ij in. to fit the head tube, and turn out the recess fo,r ball-races, as shown by the dotted lines in Figs. 15 and 16 (p. 23). These recesses will measure ^\ in. at the extreme ends by ^ in. deep. Face off the ends, and true up the outer edges. The Ij-in. tube members may be bored whilst held in the jaw chuck or on the angle plate, tilted to the correct angle 112 degrees for the top head lug and 56 degrees for the bottom one. Seat Lug. Chuck the seat-lug casting in the jaw chuck to bore out the central lj-in. hole, with the top end outwards ; re-chuck or fix on the angle plate, to bore out the Ij-in. hole for the front tube. The rear part will have to be drilled out | in., and ths ears faced off true for the back-stay eyes to bed against. The saw-cut should be put in the back, midway between the ears, before the lug is fitted and brazed to the seat tube, as the casting becomes very hard and difficult to saw after it has been brazed. Lower Horizontal Tube Lugs. The treatment of the lower horizontal tube lugs is the same as that of the seat lug ; but note should be taken of the difference in the angle. Drilling Girder Tube Stays. The |-in. hole in each of the girder tube stays may be bored on the drilling machine or the lathe. In setting these castings for boring the |-in. hole, due allowance should be made for the difference in parallel be- tween this and the oval hole. On reference to the BUILDING FRAME FROM CASTINGS 35 full-size drawing, it will be noticed that the girder tubes approach nearer to the centre steering line as they reach the top of the head. Also, looking from the front of the machine, it will be seen that the two tubes are closer together at the top than they are at the fork crown. If this difference is allowed for when drilling the f-in. holes, it will not be necessary to bend the tubes to bring them into place. Knocking these lugs on a f-in. man- drel, after they are drilled and the edges trued up in the lathe, will add greatly to their appearance. The oval holes must be filed out to fit the fork blades. Front Fork Crown. The front fork crown may be held in the jaw chuck or strapped to the face- plate, the centre hole bored 1|- in., and the top faced off and the shoulder turned 1^ in. in diameter by | in. deep. If the casting is being machined, strapped to the face-plate, this latter operation will have- to be done on a mandrel be- tween the centres. The oval-section holes will have to be filed or scraped out for the fork blades to fit. While the casting is on the mandrel in the lathe, the ends of the ovals may be faced off true. Steering-tube Lug Casting. Chuck the steer- ing-tube lug casting bottom or large end outwards, bore through lj in. to fit the steering tube (a tight hand fit), and recess out the part shown dotted in Figs. 24 and 25 (p. 28) to take the ball-race. This will be of the same size across as the recesses in the head lugs, but V in. deeper, so that the edge of the- casting may overlap the outer edge of the top ball head lug when the two are brought together with the balls in place. This hides the balls, and keeps the bearing more or less dust- proof. The bottom ball head lug should be made to overlap the bottom ball-race on the fork crown in the same manner for the same purpose. At this chucking, the under side of the front ears may be faced, as well as the edges of the two 36 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. girder tube lugs, on a mandrel in the lathe centres ; the outside and top of the casting may be turned up, or as much of the outside as the projections will allow. The ears should be drilled out | in., and faced on both sides with a facing cutter ; the cutter that was used for recessing the front fork ends will do for this also. The two ^-in. holes for the girder tubes must now be drilled, and finished out with a bottoming drill or cutter, so that the holes have square corners or a flat bottom. A fine saw-cut should be made nearly half through the casting, just under the ears, as shown in Fig. 24 (p. 28), and a broader cut should be run down to meet this midway be- tween the ears. Engine Plates. The four engine-plate castings should be levelled, the |-in. holes drilled square with the face, the sides smoothed, and the edges filed up. One of the |-in. holes in each plate may be marked off and drilled, leaving the other |-in. holes to be marked off and drilled after the frame is built up and the engine is in position. Ball-races. It will now be necessary to make the ball-races (Figs. 28 and 29, p. 37). Four of these will be required three, as illustrated, for the steering tube lug and the top and bottom head lugs, and one for the fork crown ; this last will have square corners instead of round, and a lyV in. hole to fit the shoulder on the fork crown, the outside diameter being 1^4 in. These are rather awkward to make in an ordinary lathe ; to get them true they are made on a large hollow mandrel lathe from the bar. It would be as well to buy these ready-made, as they do not cost much. If it is decided to make them, good mild steel, well case-hardened, should be used. It would be simpler, in making the steering bearings, to dis- pense with cups or loose ball-races altogether, and turn the ball-races in the head and steering lugs themselves, with a steel cone only to fit on the fork BUILDING FKAME FROM CASTINGS. sf crown. In this case the bearings should be two- point bearings, and not four-point, as shown with the loose ball-races. These parts will not bo so durable as well-hardened steel ball-races ; but if balls not less than ^'V in., or T 3 (I in. for the top bear- ing and -^L in. for the bottom bearing, are used, they will wear very well. The malleable-iron castings become very hard when they are brazed, and thus stand a lot of wear. The loose steel cone on the head will, of course, be well hardened, and the radius of the bearing curves should not be much greater than the radius of the ball used, thus giving a good large bearing surface, instead of the small bearing surface usual with V-groove Fig. 28. Fig 29. Figs. 28 and 29. BalJ-race. bearing discs. One advantage of the absence of loose ball-race bearings is that there are no separ- ate parts to gst loose and cause play in the head Bottom Bracket Axle. Fig. 30 gives the full dimensions for the bottom bracket axle, which should be made, preferably, from one of Lead- beater &; Scott's patent stampings. These have a dead soft centre, which will not harden, with an exterior covering of a carbon steel that will harden direct in water, and gives a very hard wearing surface. Failing one of these- stampings, cast steel should be used, carefully hardened at- the wearing parts only. Mild steel, case-hard- ened, does very well for this job if proper facilities, are at hand for pot-hardening ; but using mild 3S MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. steel, and attempting to harden by the ordinary means on the open hearth with potash, etc., is quite useless. In making this axle, cut off the steel or stamping just the dead lengths required before drilling up the ends, so that the centres upon which the axle is turned may be left in, to true it up by after hardening. Fit the cranks and file the keyways before hardening. Special wide bracket discs are used with this axle, as shown at A, lock- nuts (Figs. 31 and 32) securing them. If it has been decided to lock these discs by set pins or transverse cotters, the ordinary standard pattern discs, which can be purchased for about 6d. each, will do. Should lock-nuts for the bracket discs be Fig. 30. Bottom Bracket Axle in Position. necessary, they may be made from ordinary gas back-nuts, bored out and re-screwed, if suitable stampings are not available ; or, if the latter are used, they can be made from stout 1-in. washers, bored and screwed. They need not be filed up or shaped hexagon ; but a couple of deep notches may be filed in their edge for adjustment pur- poses, as shown in Figs. 31 and 32. They should be If in. by 24 threads, the same as the discs, but must be a somewhat easier fit on the discs than the discs are in the bracket, otherwise diffi- culty will be experienced in adjusting the bearing properly. At least one face of the nuts must be trued up with the thread. Fitting Lock-nut to Steering Tube. The steer- BUILDING FRAME FROM CASTINGS. 39 ing tube must be screwed at one end with a fine thread for | in. down. A coarser thread than 26 to the inch should not be used, otherwise the tube would be weakened by the depth of the thread. A lock-nut to fit this will be required, and the re- marks made with reference to the bracket lock- nuts applj 7 also to this. Whilst screwing the steer- ing tube and fitting the nut, pay attention to the fitting of the steering-tube lug, which must be a good sliding fit without shake. The saw-cut, which allows the- tube to be tightened on to the Fig-. 32. Figs. 31 and 32. Bracket Lock-nut, handle-bar stem, should not be made until the handle-bar has been fitted in the tube. Engine Bolts. Two f-in. turned engine bolts (Fig. 33) will be required for securing the engine plates to their lugs. These are turned from li-in. mild steel, one to the dimensions given in the illustration, and the other \ in. shorter. They should be a, good push fit, without shake, in the f-in. holes of the engine plates and the lugs on the frame. Building up Frame. All the lugs and parts having been machined ready for fitting up to the various tubes, the rear part of the frame may now be built up. Cut off the back forks to the 40 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. exact length required ; clean out the ends where the fork ends and fork crown ends fit ; level off the ends where the fork ends fit ; and chamfer off the inner edge of the D tubes, so that they fit neatly up to the shoulders. If these fit tight, they need not be pegged for brazing. Fit the top stay eyes, into the top back stays in a similar way. Cut a small notch in the bottom of the f-in. hole in one of these stay eyes, so that a small peg fitted under the head of the bolt, which holds the seat pillar tight, may engage with this slot and so prevent the bolt from turning while the nut is being tightened or undone. Before fitting up the fork ends and stay eyes, or cutting the tubes at all, see that the cranked portion of these comes in the proper position to allow of the belt rim clearing properly, and on the left-hand side of the machine. These four joints are then brazed and filed up. Setting Rear Fork Ends. The fork ends should now be set on the wheel. (The wheels should be made or procured before starting to build the frame.) To set the fork ends, tighten up in their place on the wheel spindle and set until the other ends of the forks are the proper distance apart, to correspond with the D-section ends of the fork crown, and at an equal distance from the edge of the whe-el rim. It is better not to set these* in their place on the spindle, or the latter may get bent with the strain ; they should be removed to the vice to be bent to the required angle. Brazing Tubes to Bottom Bracket. The two short pieces of If-in. tube may now be fitted to the bracket, and also the down tub, after thoroughly cleaning out the various lugs and the ends of the tubes. The ends of the If-in. tube that fit into the bracket should be hollowed out, to allow of the tubes fitting well up into the bracket. The back fork crown is then fitted to the other end of the If-in. tube. Now try this BUILDING FRAME FROM CASTINGS. 41 part on the working drawing, and see that all the measurements and the angle of the down tube are correct. Before pegging these joints and braz- ing up, make sure of the following points : The down tube must be at right angles to the bore of the bracket ; test this with a steel straightedge on the trued-up faces. See that the back fork crown is square with the down tube ; test this by placing the- straightedge on the top of the D-sec- tion ears and sighting it from the back, when the straightedge should appear at right angles to the down tube. Some blacklead mixed with oil should be rubbed into the threaded ends of the bracket, and also into the tapped lubricator holes, to pre- vent the brass and borax adhering to these parts. Fig. 33. Engine Plate Bolt. These four joints will require careful brazing, and a good blast to obtain sufficient heat. The best way to proceed is to direct the blast on to the heavy portion of the front lug ; get this well heated up, and make the front l|-in. joint. Now shift the flame on to the root of the l^-in. lug, and braze this joint ; then on to the heavy part of the rear l|-in. lug, and finish this joint. It will be advisable next to remove the job from the hearth and thoroughly brush these joints, while well hot, with the wire brazing brush. The joint of the rear If-in. tube with the back fork crown can then be finally brazed. Brazing this last joint will scale the D ends of the crown, and these must therefore be cleaned up again before fitting the back forks. Small air-holes must be 42 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING drilled on the inside of these back forks before filing up and brazing. Other tubes requiring air- holes for brazing will be the back stays, lower horizontal tube, and front forks ; and the top tube and bottom, front tube as well, unless the ends of these are opened out into their lugs. When the back forks, exactly equal in length, are finally fitted to the crown, remove and load each tube with brass and borax, knock the joints well home, and peg securely. Fix a stay or strut between the two fork ends, so that they will be held the same distance apart as they will be when the wheel is in position. In the absence of a suitable stay, the hub spindle will do, the cones and nuts being used to keep the fork ends the correct dis- tance apart and the faces square with each other. Shake the charge, placed inside the tubes, well down towards the joints, and braze one at a time, with the fork on its side. Fitting Ball-head. Fit up the ball-head tube to the top and bottom head lugs, the top tube to the top head lug, and the bottom front tube to the bottom head lug, and peg the joints. The ends of the tubes should be hollowed out to fit up against the head tube. Before brazing, see that the three tubes are in one plane ; to test this, place a long straightedge across the ends of the top and bottom tubes, and sight this with the ball- head tube. Also see that the ends of the tubes are the proper distance apart to drop into place with the seat lug and front engine lug on the draw- ing. While these joints are hot, scrape out the ends of the ball-head lugs, where the ball races fit ; this will save a lot of work after, if any brass has stuck to these parts. Mark off, on the down and bottom tubes, the position that the Ipwer horizontal tube lugs will occupy, and clean the tubes at these parts. Slip the two lugs on to the down and bottom tubes before the seat lug or the front engine lug is fitted to its tube. BUILDING FRAME FROM CASTINGS. 43 Fitting Front to Rear Parts. The seat lug can now be fitted to the top tube, and the lower horizontal tube to its lugs, and the front and rear portions of the frame connected together by fitting the seat lug on to the top of the down tube. In fitting this front portion to the rear part, see that all the tubes lie in one plane before pegging up. To test this, place a long straightedge across each side of the ball-head and down tubes ; the end of this should fall at an equal distance from each fork-end face. The ball-head tube must also be perfectly parallel with the down tube. These three joints may now be brazed up. The top tube is opened out into the seat lug by punch- ing a hole through the down tube inside the seat lug. This will act as an air hole, and serve as a means of feeding a charge of brass and borax to the joint. The lower horizontal tube lug joints may be fed by ramming a piece of paper down the tube, about the centre, before fitting up ; a charge can then be inserted at each end of the tube, the paper keeping them apart. Fitting Top Back Stays. The top back stays may now be fitted and brazed up. Before pegging up these two joints, the wheel must be tried in place, and the stays so fitted that the rim of the wheel is exactly central between them. Fit the mud-guard stay, and braze in place, to give 1^-in. clearance between the mudguard and the tyre. The fitting and brazing of the engine lugs had better be left until the front forks are built and the engine is ready. Fitting Front Forks. Now the front forks may be secured. Fit and braze the steering tube to the fork crown ; then square off the bottom ends of the front forks and clean out all scale, and serve the lower ends of the girder tubes in the same way. Fit the fork ends to the fork blades, set in the same manner as the rear fork ends on the front wheel, and braze up these two joints. 44 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. Next cut off the top ends of the blades to the proper length, to give the required clearance to the tyre under the fork crown. Clean the ends of the blades outside sufficiently far down to allow for the girder tube stays, then slip these stays on over the fork blades, load each with brass and borax, and fit into the crown, taking care to knock them well home. The two blades should be of exactly the same length, and, after being tested, should be fixed at an equal angle to the steering tube when the ends are the proper distance apart. Fit the wheel in the forks, and see that the rim is central between them, and use the straightedge to see that the steering tube is true with the wheel rim. When this is all as- sured, fix the wheel spindle or other stay between the fork ends, and peg and braze up the four joints. The f-in. holes of the girder tube stays must now be cleaned out, the tubes where they fit these, and the inside of the lower ends, to fit on the front lug of the fork ends. The exact length of these two girder tubes is obtained by assembling the ball-head with balls and races in position. It is very important that the length of these shall be absolutely exact, for if they are the least bit too long, the ends would bottom in the holes of the lugs on front of the steering-tube lug before the bearing was properly adjusted. The tubes should be of such a length as to be about ~ in. off the bottom of the holes, when the bearing is tightly adjusted. This allows for subsequent wear and adjustment of the head bearings. Of course, it- is understood that the tops of these tubes are not brazed into the lugs, but are a good tight sliding fit in them. When the proper length has been obtained, take down the head and braze the four joints at the crown and lower ends. It will be as well to slip the steering tube lug on to the top ends of the girder tubes while these four joints are being BUILDING FRAME FROM CASTINGS. 45 brazed, thus ensuring them being the exact dis- tance apart to drop afterwards into their places. Before filing up the fork joints* try the front wheel again, to see if any part has sprung or given, and thus thrown the wheel out of centre. It will, of course, be better to correct this now than to wait until after the joints are filed up. While the wheel is in the fork, both before and after brazing, place the straightedge across the front of the fork crown, and see that is is parallel with the wheel spindle. Should the fork be on the twist, this can be rectified by holding the crown in the vice and inserting a bar between the lower end of the fork blades. Handle-bar and Seat Pillar. The handle-bar and seat pillar call for no special mention, ex- cept that they are stronger than the ordinary cycle type, and that the handle-bar is wider and longer, as already mentioned. The stem of both the seat pillar and the handle-bar should be fitted into their respective tubes before the saw-cut is made down them. Fitting Engine Plates. If the engine, or the crank case of the engine, is now available, the four engine plates can be fitted to the crank case. The pair on the pulley side will be let in flush with the surface of the crank case, so as to give clearance to the belt. With the engine lugs slipped on to the ends of the bottom down tube and the short l--in. tube, the proper position for the f-in. holes in the engine plates and the correct position of the engine lugs on the tubes can be marked off to bring the engine square and per- pendicular in the frame. The two lugs should be pegged on the tubes while the crank case and plates are in position with alj bolts in, to ensure their coming together again properly when brazed up. It will be advisable to blacklead the inside of the f-in. holes in the engine lugs before brazing to prevent them scaling or getting brass on them. 46 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. Final Setting of the Frame. The final setting of the frame should be done now. Put the bracket axle, discs, and balls together in the bracket, and, with the chain wheel and the crank fixed in position and the back wheel in the forks, line up the two chain wheels with a straightedge. With the straightedge on the outer face of the bracket wheel, the other end should just fall clear of the chain-wheel face on the back hub. The front wheel and fork can now be fitted up in the frame, and the two wheels tested for being in track or in line. A long straightedge should be placed on the sides of the back wheel rim, and tested with the sides of the front rim. This will be done with the machine upside down. When this is set satisfactorily, place the machine right end up, and, with the straightedge on the face of the rim, see that the front fork tube is upright with the back wheel. This is done more easily if a piece of tube or a long mandrel is fitted into the steering tube. The frame, etc., may now be filed up, and sent out to be enamelled and plated. 47 CHAPTER IV. MAKING A 3i-H.P. PETROL MOTOR. THE motor to be described in this chapter will develop 3i h.p., and is suitable for the frame described in the previous chapters. It is quite powerful enough for use with a trailer, side, or fore car. With a two-speed gear, it may also be used for a tri-car. This is not an experimental engine, but one that has been made and well tried over some thousands of miles, giving every satis- faction. It is of original design and simply con- structed with as few parts as possible (see the vertical 'section, Fig. 34, in which the valve springs are not shown). The patterns for all the parts are finished, and are available to readers of this handbook who would like to purchase the castings instead of making their own patterns, so that an immediate start could be made. The cylinder pattern is an exceedingly difficult one for an amateur to make ; in fact, it is the work of a first-class pattern-maker to turn out a good working pattern. Fig. 35 is a section of the cylinder through the line x x in Fig. 36, which is a plan of the top. Fig. 37 is a plan of the bottom or open end of the cylinder. Boring Cylinder. The first and most im- portant part to be taken in hand is the cylinder. The boring and machining of this calls for the greatest care and skill to obtain really good re- sults. The cylinder, etc., being all in one cast- ing, increases the difficulty of accurate boring, but makes a much more satisfactory job when finished. Before starting the boring operation, the casting should be carefully examined for MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. Fig. 34. Vertical Section of 3|-h.p. Petrol Engine. MAKING A 3A-H.P. PETROL MOTOR. 47 Main Shaft, Gear Side. the same taper as the main shaft holes namely, 3 degrees. This will bring the large side in. ; face off round this opening till it is i in. below the surface of the rim face. The other side of this hole will require facing true, for the nut to bed against. For this operation the casting must be reversed again on the face plate. The thick- ness through at this part is 4 in. full. The rim of the flywheels may be finally trued up by mount- ing them on their respective shafts, when these have been turned, and running on the lathe centres. Main Shaft, and Crank Pin. Fig. G6 shows the main shaft, pulley side, and Fig. 67 the gear side. 3 Me * Fig. 68. Crank Pin. Fig. 68 is the crank pin. These may be turned from good mild steel and case-hardened, or from tool steel and left soft ; or, if the latter steel is used, they may be hardened and carefully tern- 80 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. pered, the centre parts being let down to a brown and the ends right down or to a blue. In the latter case, the hardening requires to be very carefully done and not left too hard, or there is a chance of fracture. Pulley-side Main Shaft. For the shaft (Fig. 66), cut off -If in. of if -in. or 1-in. stuff. The dead length finished will be 4| in., so that if it is cut off on the anvil, allowance must be made for truing up the ends. Centre the ends, and drill up with the centre drill to the same angle as the lathe centres. See that the rest is set to turn dead parallel, and turn up | in. from end to end, to fit the main crank case bush nicely, without shake, but a free fit. Turn down one end to f in. for -j 9 ^ in., and \ in. from this shoulder scribe a fine line round the |-in. diameter, and 2^^ in. from this scribe another line round these are for guides to which to turn the end of the taper part; ii in. from this last line turn down f in. to the end. These f-in. ends require screwing tw r enty- six threads per inch, to fit tightly suitable nuts, which should be 5 in. thick. The rest should be set to turn the same taper as was used to bore out the taper holes in the flywheels. Test the shaft ends in the flywheel holes with red-lead, until the taper end of the shaft is seen to touch from end to end. Short or Gear-side Main Shaft. The short or gear-side shaft (Fig. 67) is treated in the same way, the plain end, to take the small gear wheel, being f in. in diameter by f in. long. It is well to leave the final size of this end until the gear wheel is bored. The plain parallel part of this shaft is l^f- in., the taper part A in., and the screwed part -^ in. The crank pin (Fig. 68) is turned from a piece of|J-in. or |-in. stuff; the diameter is f in., to fit the large end of the con- necting-rod bush, and it is 3 T 3 ^in. long over all. The two ends are f in. by ^ in., screwed twenty- MAKING A 3-H.P. PETROL MOTOR. 81 six threads per inch; the taper parts are i in. long, and the parallel parts If in. The taper parts of all three shafts must be a perfect fit in their respective holes in the flywheels, and care must be taken that the shoulders at the end of the threaded parts do not come right through the holes in the flywheels. When the shafts are right home, and the nuts screwed up hard, the face of the nuts should bed against the flywheel before it touches the shoulder on the shaft end by about V in. Should the nut face touch the shaft shoul- der before it beds against the flywheel, it will not be long before the flywheels are loose on their shafts and out of truth. In making these three shafts it will, of course, be best and quickest to V* Fig. 69. Half-time Shaft. Fig. 70. Tappet Rod. turn all the taper parts at one setting of the rest, and also to do all the screwing at one time. Half-time Shaft. The half-time shaft (Fig. 69) may as well be made at this stage, though the large gear wheel and exhaust cam should be finished first, so as to be able to get the shaft a good tight fit. The finished size is 2| in. over all. The main part is J in. in diameter by If in. long, to fit tightly the bore of the gear wheel and ex- haust cam. The f-in. part is 1 in. long, to fit the bush in the gear cover of the crank case freely. Tappet Hod. The tappet rod (Fig. 70) is turned from a piece of tool steel, and need only be hardened on the extreme end (the round end). It is T 7 g- in. in diameter, w T ith the end nicely rounded and smoothed off. The top end is turned down to f in. for J in., to take the circular plate (Fig. 71), which should be a piece of mild steel F MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. ^ in. thick by lg in. in diameter, case-hardened, and firmly riveted on the tappet rod. This rod should fit the tappet guide (Figs. 56 and 57, p. 73) without shake. Gudgeon Pin. The gudgeon pin (Fig. 72) may be a piece of tool steel 3^ in. long by i in. in diameter. It is turned to fit the piston tightly, the piston having been reamered out slightly taper; and the pin must have a corresponding amount of taper. It should be a light driving tit, so that the small end does not come quite flush with the outside of the piston by about ^ i n - Fig. 71. Circular Plate of Tappet Bod. Fig. 72. Gudgeon Pin. The large end is then covered with a brass washer ^ in. in. diameter, which will prevent the pin working back and scoring the cylinder walls. This method of fixing the gudgeon pin, though simple, has been found to be very effective; but it is most important that it should be a good tight fit in the piston, and fitted with a slight degree of taper. Set pins, however well fitted and se- cured by split pins, etc., are never reliable. It will probably be found, upon trying the gudgeon pin in the connecting-rod bush, that it is too tight a fit. If so, the bush should be reamered out until the pin is a good fit without MAKING A 3|-H.P. PETROL MOTOR. 83 shake. A piece of brown paper on one side of the reamer will cause it to cut a shade larger than if used without. The pin should be hardened, and let down to brown in the centre and blue at the ends. In hardening, do not get the steel so hot as to scale, or the fit will be upset, and dip quite straight in the water end on. In fitting the gudgeon pin to the piston, be sure that both ends are equally tight in the piston holes, or it will soon work loose. Do not harden the shafts until the keyways have been cut and the crank case with the flywheels have been fitted together and assembled. Cutting Keyways in Shafts. A simple and at the same time thoroughly efficient method of cut- ting the keyways in the various shafts will now be Fig. 73. Figs. 73 and 74. Tool for Cutting Keyways in Lathe. given. All that has to be made, for cutting key- ways in an ordinary slide-rest lathe, is the tool shown at Figs. 73 and 74. It is turned from a piece of f-in. or -in. tool steel, the end being reduced to a diameter corresponding to the width of the keyway to be cut. This portion of the tool, for the present purpose, will be ^ in. in diameter by | in. long ; it is as well to keep this part short, to prevent springing of the tool as far as possible. The reduced part is then filed on each side until it is ^2 in. thick ; the sides are backed off slightly, and the two cutting edges filed as shown. The end is then hardened in the usual way, and let down to a dark straw colour at the cutting edges. The tool is next mounted in the lathe chuck to run true, and the shaft to be cut is clamped in the tool-holder of the slide-rest, at right angles to the 84 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. tool, and with its axis perfectly level with the lathe centres. The shaft is fed up to the cutter by means of the slide-rest, a start being made at the inner or rounded end of the keyway ; the top slide is then worked for the required length of the key- way. Not more than - f in. in depth should be taken at one cut, or the tool may break. Pro- vided the shaft is set true in all directions in the tool post, and the cutter is sharp, a perfect key- way is the result, equal in every respect to one cut in a keyway or slotting machine. The various keys may be fitted by filing flats on the shafts for the keys, but this method, unless the fitting is very well done, is not recommended. The simple method described above will be found much more reliable, and, of course, is quicker once the tool has been made. Besides which, the tool will cut other keyways of the same width. All the keyways in the two main shafts, crank pin, and half-time shaft are of the same width and depth, that is, i in. by J in. The length of the keyway in the half-time shaft is 1 in. ; the others are cut as long as possible. The keyways in the flywheels, gear wheel, and exhaust cam should be filed, if a slotting machine is not available ; they must be quite flat and straight, with no taper. In fitting the keys, which should be made from cast steel, file on the sides first, to fit the width of the keyways ; then true up one face perfectly flat, and fit the key carefully in its place by filing on the other face only. Do not cut off the key until it has been perfectly fitted, and this is not at- tained until the key beds on its seating from end to end on both sides. The fitting of all keys on a motor of this kind calls for special care, as a wheel fitted to a shaft with anything but first-class workmanship is sure to work loose sooner or later. Engine Belt Pulley.- Fig. 75 is a section of the engine belt pulley, which is an iron casting. The pattern should be made in two parts, parting at MAKING A 3-H.P. PETROL MOTOR. 85 the bottom of the belt groove. A core box is not absolutely necessary, as the inside can be left parallel and the recessed portion turned out of the casting. This reces&ed part is for retaining any oil which may work out of the crank case through the main bearing, and prevent it being Fig. 75. Section of Engine Pulley. thrown over the outside of the engine. A drain- hole is drilled, tapped, and fitted with a |-in. Whitworth screw. If this screw is removed from time to time, and any oil which has accumulated drained off, this side of the engine at any rate will be kept free from oil. Chuck the casting in the jaw chuck, large side outwards ; bore a f-in. hole, 86 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. and turn out 3 degrees taper, to suit the taper of the main shaft. Turn up the outer edge of the rim 4| in. in diameter ; and turn out the belt groove 28 degrees, f in. wide at the top. The bottom of the belt groove is 2f in. in diameter. Clear up the inside, and turn out the recessed part. The back should be 1| in. from the face. The face of the boss for the lock-nut to bed against may be trued up with a hook tool at this setting, the length of the boss for the shaft being f in. through. The casting may now be mounted on its shaft, and the remainder of the outside turned up on the lathe centres. This pulley is designed for a |-in. belt, which is strong enough if the engine is to be Fig. 76. Locking Plate. used for a single cycle ; but if for use with a trailer, in. is advisable, while for tri-car work a 1-in. belt is required. For the 1-in. belt the cast- ing must be i in. to T 3 g in. wider at the belt groove, but the present casting will turn out for the f-in. size. A keyway ^ in. wide by ^ in. deep must be cut the length of the bore. Securing Pulley to Shaft. This pulley is se- cured on its shaft by two J-in. thick lock-nuts, screwed to fit the f-in. by 26 threads at the shaft end, besides the key. An alternative method of fixing the engine pulley to the shaft is to screw the end of the shaft with a right-hand thread, 4 in- by 26 threads, and the pulley bore to suit, in place of the plain taper and key, and fit a left-hand thread lock-nut, f in. by 26 threads to the inch. This MAKING A 3i-H.P. PETROL MOTOR. 87 makes a reliable fixing, but the pulley is some- times very difficult to remove if it gets jammed on the thread. Pinning Lock-nut to Shaft. The lock-nuts which secure the two main shaft ends to the fly- wheel, and one end of the crank pin, may be secured permanently by drilling a |-in. hole half in the nut and half in the end of the shaft, and then driving in a pin which is T ^ in. shorter than the hole is deep, and burring the edge of the hole over the pin. The drilling must be done before the shafts are hardened, the pinning being the last operation of all when finally assembling. Safety Lock for Crank Pin Lock-nut. The lock-nut on the other end of the crank pin will re- Fig. 77. Fig. 78. Figs. 77 and 78. =Exhaust Cam. quire a safety lock, but it should be of such a nature that will allow of removal for future re- pairs, etc. Such a lock may be made by fitting a sheet-steel plate cut out of No. 15 or No. 16 gauge sheet, as shown at Fig. 76. This is slipped on over the lock-nut after it has been tightened right up, and the small end secured to the face of the flywheel with a small screw tapped into the flywheel, which must be a good tight fit on the thread, and have a good strong head. Exhaust Cam. The exhaust cam (Figs. 77 and 78) is made from tool steel carefully hardened and tempered. The dimensions are bore, J in., to fit tight on the half-time shaft; diameter, 1^ j n MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. with a J-in. lift ; it is T 9 6 - in. wide, and keywayed i in. by J in. Harden right out, polish, and 1st down to a brown on the wearing surface, and get the inside as low as possible ; this may be done by making an iron rod very hot and inserting it in the hole, letting the hot rod bear most on the thick side of the cam, or the thin side will be let down too low before the thick or lift side is low enough. Gear Wheels. Plans and sections of the largo and small gear wheels are shown at Figs. 79 to 82; these actuate the exhaust and ignition cams on the half-time shaft. The large gear wheel may be Fig. 79. Fig. 80. Figs. 79 and 80. Large Gear Wheel. in phosphor-bronze, and has 32 teeth ; it is 2 in. in diameter on the pitch line, 2j in. in diameter over all, has a i-in. hole to fit tight the half-time shaft, and is | in. thick on the face of the teeth. The small gear wheel is of good tough, mild steel, case-hardened. It has 16 teeth, is 1 in. in diameter on the pitch line, Ij in. in diameter over all, has a f-in. hole to fit tight the end of the main shaft, and is f in. wide on the face of the teeth. It should be keywayed only T V in. deep by i in. wide. If the keyway is cut any deeper than this, the wheel will not be strong enough, and will be liable to burst when the key is fitted up. In the absence of proper facilities for gear-cutting, this part of MAKING A 3J-H.P. PETROL MOTOR. the work must be put out to be done. The blanks can be bored and turned to the sizes given, and sent to a firm who make a speciality of this class of work ; or they may be purchased finished from most dealers in motor parts. If the cutting is done at home, two cutters will be required, one for the driven wheel and one for the driver, the shape of tooth being different in each. If wheels of exactly the same number of teeth cannot be purchased, they may have 30 and 15 or 28 and 14, so long as they are the same diameter on the pitch line. It is not advisable to have finer teeth than would be in wheels of 32 and 16, of these pitch ^_- igr. si. Fig. 82. Figs. 81 and 82. Small Gear Wheel. diameters, as they would be weaker; and coarser than 28, and 14 would be too large for the purpose. In fitting up the large gear wheel and exhaust cam to the half-time shaft, the gear wheel is fitted with one face level with the shoulder at the finish of the f-in. part, and the exhaust cam behind it. Cutting Keyway in Large Gear Wheel.- Cut- ting the keyway in the large gear wheel should bs left until the parts are assembled, as the timing of the exhaust valve lift and closing can be set to a nicety by shifting this wheel a trifle on its shaft. It will here be found advantageous to have the wheel a good tight fit on the shaft, as the friction will keep the wheel in position whilst the timing is done. The position of the keyway can then be marked accurately whilst in place. Induction or Inlet Pipe. The induction or 90 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. inlet pipe from the engine to the carburettor is illustrated at Fig. 83. This is made from Ig-in. No. 16 gauge weldless steel tube bent to the shape shown. About 10 in. is actually taken up in the bend illustrated, but a length of at least 1 ft. 4 in. or 1 ft. 6 in. will be required for the purpose, as the bends finish so near the ends. The tube should be rammed as tight as possible with fine dry sand, and the ends stopped with metal plugs. The tube is heated 2 in. or 3 in. at a time to a good bright heat, and bent to a radius of If in. The two ends should be quite parallel with each other, or the carburettor will not be upright when fitted to the engine. A steel washer or collar, turned all over, is brazed to one end, the union nut holding the pipe securely to the engine by this collar. The other end of the pipe will be fitted with a suitable union to fit the carburettor connection. The type of this connection will de- pend upon the size and pattern of carburettor used. A suitable carburettor for the engine will be a Longuemare, Model H, or the device described in the next chapter. It will be advisable to pur- chase this fitting instead of attempting to make it, unless the worker is very skilful. Contact-breaker. The type of contact-breaker to be used has now to be chosen. This may be of the wipe type with a trembler coil, or a make- and-break with a plain coil. Opinions are divided as to which is preferable for a motor cycle ignition. With a wipe contact and trembler coil easy starting is facilitated, and risk of miss- fires is lessened, but the engine will not attain the high rate of speed that it will with a make- and-break and a plain coil. Neither can the timing be set to the same degree of nicety as with the make-and-break. Against the latter sys- tem there is frequent trimming up and adjust- ment of platinum contact points, and sometimes difficulty in starting, unless these two items aro MAKING A 3.>H.P. PETROL MOTOR. 91 perfect. For ordinary purposes, the wipe con- tact and trembler coil are preferable. Which- ever system is adopted, the contact-breaker will be purchased ready-made with ignition cam or wipe sector. This cam or sector will be fitted on the small end of the half-time shaft. Assembling the Engine. With all the compo- nent parts made and finished, the final assembling of the engine may now be started. The two main shafts should be fitted to their respective flywheels, the nuts screwed right home, and secured with small pegs in the nuts and shaft ends. One half (the gear-side half for preference) of the crank Fig. 83. Inlet Tube from Carburettor. pin should be served in a similar manner. The rings should be fitted to the piston grooves, and the piston to the connecting-rod by the gudgeon pin, which must be tapped in far enough to allow of the i-in. brass covering washer clearing the cylinder walls when the piston is in, but not so far that the opposite end will touch the opposite side of the cylinder. The connecting-rod may now be slipped over the crank pin, and the flywheels fitted together by the other end of the crank pin ; the nut is then tightened, and the flywheels tested between the 92 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. lathe centres for truth. If out of Uuth, some part has been put together improperly, or one of the taper ends of the shafts may have some grit or dirt on it, thus preventing a true fitting of the surfaces. If true, lock the nut as tight as it will go, and fit on the sheet-steel locking device (Fig. 76, p. 86). Balancing the Flywheels. It will be found that the balance weights cast on the flywheels are not sufficient to balance the weight of the crank pin, connecting-rod, and about half the weight of the piston ; therefore -in. holes should be drilled in the rim of the flywheels, on the crank pin side, to balance this. A weight equal to the above-men- tioned fittings may be suspended from the crank, whilst flywheels are lightly held between the cen- tres of the lathe. If sufficient metal cannot be taken out of the rims in this manner, without unduly weakening them, holes can be drilled in the opposite side of the rims (balance-weight side), and filled with lead. To prevent any possibility of this lead working loose, drill the holes through the side of the rim, and then drill other holes from the outer edge to meet the first; this will form T-shaped openings, into which the lead may be cast without fear of its coming out. Fit the two halves of the crank case together, with the flywheels in place. Bolting up Crank Case. The air valve, oil connection, and drain plug all being fitted, sec that the edges of the case are quite clean and coated with red-lead and oil. Bring the halves together. Insert two of the f-in. bolts, which hold the halves together, at opposite points, screw up, arid test the flywheels for freedom of running be- fore proceeding further. If satisfactory, insert the rest of the f-in. bolts and screw up. Fitting Cylinder to Crank Case. The cylinder can now be fitted on to the crank case. See that the surfaces that come together are perfectly clean. MAKING A 3^-H.P. PETROL MOTOR. 93 Cut out a stout brown-paper washer to go between the cylinder flange and the top of the crank case. Bolt down equally, and test for free working; by fastening a lathe carrier on to the end of the shaft, the flywheels can be revolved. If this does not work so free as it should, making due allow- ance for friction of the piston rings, etc., remove and find out the cause. Completing the Assembling. It should be men- tioned that all parts are to be oiled, as they go together ; and in fitting piston rings, see that the joints are equally divided. Key on the 16-tooth wheel to the end of the main shaft when every- thing works free. The tappet-rod guide should be screwed ur> tight in the gear-cover top, and the half-time shaft tried in its place with the gear cover on. Key on the exhaust valve cam to its shaft, tap on the large gear wheel temporarily, fit up the exhaust valve, put the gear cover on, and slip in the tappet rod. The end of the ex- haust-valve stem should come within -^ in. of the plate on the tappet rod, when the valve is right down on its seating and the cam is out of opera- tion. When this has been so arranged, harden the end stem of the valve. Timing the Engine. The timing is a very im- portant operation, and may now be attended to. Get a piece of stout wire that will pass through the small hole drilled in the top of the cylinder, and on this wire make a mark level with the top of the cylinder when the piston is at its highest point in the cylinder, the end of the wire resting on the top of the piston. Turn the main shaft (by the carrier) until the piston has descended to its lowest point, then make another mark on the wire in the same way as before. It is now possible to tell to a nicety when the piston is at its highest and lowest point in the cylinder. Now so arrange the large gear wheel on the half-time shaft that the cam will cause the exhaust valve MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. just to start opening when the piston has de- scended four-fifths of its stroke in the cylinder, and the valve shuts dead on its seating upon the completion of the next up stroke. The meshing of the gear wheel teeth must be altered until the desired effect is obtained, when the exact position for the keyway on the large wheel can be marked and cut and keyed up. It may be necessary to alter the shape of the cam slightly (by grinding, if it has been already hardened) to bring about the desired effect. Fig. 84. Jf'i cycle-ball, but it is not necessary .unless automatic lubrication is fitted. Small Cover. The small cover (see Figs. 106 and 107) may be bored, turned on the edge to 1| in., and faced on the inside. Bore the hole for the bush i-i in., and just true up the project- ing edge. The piece is fastened to the case by three -in. screws with countersunk heads, as these must not project beyond the face of the cover. Buahes. The main bush of phosphor-bronze is 3~ in. long by 1 in. in diameter, with a f-in. hole. Chuck the casting, bore the hole ^ in. under size, and finish with a 1-in. reamer. Knock the bush on a tree mandrel, and turn it a tight fit for the case, so that it requires driving in with a mallet. A -inch peg may be fitted half in the bush and half in the case, f in. deep, to prevent any possi- bility of the bush shifting. When the bush is fitted, knock it on the mandrel again, and face off the ends flush. Prepare the bushes for the exhaust cam shaft in the same manner. The one in the case is f in. long by -}i in. in diameter, with a 4-in. hole. The cover bush is ^-f in. by J-'. in., with a i-in. hole. Leave these holes a shade under size, knock in the bushes, screw the cover in place, and pass a i-in. reamer through both whilst in MOTOR FOR ATTACHMENT TO BICYCLE. 125 position. Be sure the main bush hole is at right angles with the top flange face, the exhaust cam shaft hole parallel with the main bush hole, and 2O THREADS Fig. 108. Section of Li ht- weight Motor Cylinder. the hole in the tube-clip at right angles with the main shaft hole. Cylinder Castings. Dress up the cylinder cast- ings, taking off all lumps and mould marks, level the bottom part that fits on the crank case square with the sides, and mark off. Plug a 126 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. piece of hardwood across the mouth of cylinder, taking care not to drive it in too hard, and from' the edges of the cored hole find the centre. From this describe with the dividers a circle 2.\ in. full in diameter, and centre-dot lightly with about eight dots at equal distances round the circle, as a guide for boring. In a similar manner plug the openings in the top of the cylinder for the inlet valve and sparking plug, and mark off the two openings so that their centres are exactly 2f^ in. apart. As the finished sizes are 1 T " 7 . in. and ii. in. respectively, mark the circles about -j^ in. larger, so that the guide marks will not be obliterated in machining. Drill the sparking- plug hole | in., to be ultimately tapped out J-i in. with seventeen threads to the inch to suit the standard pattern De Dion plugs. If a tap to suit this size and thread is not to hand, the cylinder can be chucked on the face-plate and screw cut to suit the sparking plug, but it must not be threaded till the cylinder is bored, as the plain f-in. hole will be required for a bearing and guide for the boring bar. Face off the cylinder top to a thickness of f in. (see Fig. 108). Fig. 109 is a half plan of the cylinder head. Boring the Cylinder. To bore the cylinder, bolt the casting truly on the saddle of the lathe. It should be held firmly in position by two stout iron straps bent to the radius of the cylinder, and the casting should be packed up to the correct height of the centres. See that everything is quite firm and the lathe properly adjusted before starting to bore, as on the accuracy of the work on this part depends in a great measure the efficiency of the engine. Take at least three cuts through four will be better the finishing cut being a mere scrape. The finishing cut and the cut before it should be taken right through with- out a stop from start to finish, or a true bore will not be obtained. MOTOR FOR ATTACHMENT TO BIOTCLE. 127 Making the Borinc/ Bar. The cylinder boring bar should be made from li-in. or li-in. mild steel with one end turned down f in. to pass far enough through the hole in the top of the cylinder to allow the cutter to go to the top of the cylinder bore. This -f-in. part of the bar must fit the hole accurately, without shake from end to end. The Fig. 109. Half Plan of Light-weight iviotor Cylinder Head. bar, before being turned, should be drilled and countersunk at each end to the same angle as the lathe centres. Two cutters should be made, one for roughing and one for finishing, the latter to be used on the finishing cut only, and to be dead to size namely, 2^ in. To make a perfect job the bore should be taken to about under size and reamed out by hand in the vice with a dead 128 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. parallel 2^-in. reamer, if this tool is already in the possession of the worker. It will be an ex- pensive tool to make or purchase, and would not be economical unless a number of cylinders are to be bored. A substitute may be a copper or lead lap fed with flour emery and oil, but every particle of emery must be washed from the work with paraffin or petrol. If it is to be lapped out the cylinder must be bored to within the merest shade of the finished size. Cylinder Flange, Shoulder, and Chamfer. The flange, shoulder, and chamfer on the mouth of the cylinder may now be machined. The work may be done at the same setting as the boring, Fig. 110. Exhaust Valve Guide. by making cutters to fit the cutter bar, or it may be done on a mandrel between the lathe centres. To avoid making a mandrel the cutter bar may be used, a collar being turned to fit tightly on the |-in. part of the bar, and the outside may be turned up in its place to fit the bore of the cylin- der. The small end of the bar can then be slipped from the inside through the f-in. hole and driven with a carrier on this end. The flange should be turned up true on both sides and left f in. thick, and the shoulder should be turned 2jf in. to fit tightly the recess in the crank chamber. This part should be a shade taper, so that the screws which fasten it to the flange on the crank chamber will MOTOR FOR ATTACHMENT TO BICYCLE. 129 pull it up tight. The diameter of the flange should be exactly the same as that of the crank- chamber flange. The mouth of the cylinder should be chamfered out as shown in Fig. 108 in order to facilitate the insertion of the piston and rings. Boring Out Valve Chamber. The casting must now be chucked on the face-plate, head outwards, and fastened down with a bolt passing right through the sparking-plug hole, or held down by the flange with dogs or clamps. Get the dotted circle round the inlet valve opening quite true, and bore out and screw the hole for the exhaust- valve-guide (Fig. 110), -f-in. Whitworth thread, and with a hook tool face the under side for the valve guide to bed truly against. Next bore the opening and seating for the exhaust valve to the sizes and angle shown in Fig. 108. The sides of the exhaust chamber should be cleared up with the hook tool. The opening and seating for the inlet valve may now be machined, and the top part bored out and screwed, as shown in Fig. 108. Face up the opening so that it is \ in. from the top of the valve seating. The casting must not shift during these operations, as it is impera- tive that the exhaust-valve seating, the screwed f-in. hole, and the under part for the exhaust- valve guide be absolutely true with each other, or the exhaust-valve will never be a gas-tight fit. It is well to rough the parts first, and then finally go over the above-mentioned parts with a light finishing cut to make sure they are true. The seating and screwed part for the inlet valve must also be dead true with each other. Exhaust Pipe Opening. The opening for ex- haust pipe, shown in the half plan of the cylinder top (Fig. 109), should now be bored or drilled out and tapped 1 in., with twenty-six threads to the inch. As it is rather light, take care not to burst this part in tapping. It is well to drill it out rather full, so that the tap works freely ; a I 130 MOTOR BICYCLE KUILDING. full" thread is not necessary, as there is only the weight of the exhaust silencer for it to support, and this has a long bearing. Clearance Holes for the Holding-down Pins. Next mark off the bottom of the cylinder flange for six |-in. clearance holes for the holding-down pins. Start the first hole to come at A (Fig. 109), and mark off the other five equally from this. Get the holes the correct distance from the edge to allow the screw heads to clear the cylinder wall, as there is not much space. The best form of screw for the purpose has a square head with a circular collar underneath. Exhaust Valve Guides. The guide for the exhaust valve and the exhaust-valve push-rod guide are shown in Figs. 110 and 111 respectively. Fig 1 . 111. Exhaust Push-rod Guide. The guide shown in Fig. 110 can be turned from i in. or 1-in. case-hardened mild steel, or from tool steel hardened and tempered, or a pattern can be made for this and for the push-rod guide, and phosphor-bronze castings obtained. Which- ever method is adopted the machining will be the same. Drill the hole right through, a shade under \ in., and reamer it out to size. Turn up a man- drel to fit the hole tightly, and finish up the out- side between the lathe centres. The shoulder may be left round, and two or three g-in. tommy holes drilled in it, or it may be filed up hexagon ; the latter is preferable, as it can then be screwed up tighter than with a tommy wrench. The push- rod guide can be made in a similar manner, two flats being filed on the base by which to screw it MOTOR FOR ATTACHMENT TO BICYCLE. 181 up. To ensure the valve seating being true with the bore of the guide, a cutter bar may be made of f-in. or |-in. mild steel with a leg turned down to fit the i-in. hole, a cutter being made to the size and shape of the valve opening and seating; this can be worked round with a lathe carrier by hand, and will make a true job. Exhaust Valve. The exhaust valve should be Fig. 112. Fig. 113. Figs. 112 and 118. Exhaust Valve. made to the dimensions given in Figs. 112 and 113. The head and stem are separate pieces screwed together, and the end is riveted over. The stem is a piece of f-in. mild steel having at one end -y\ in. of any convenient thread, the head being tapped to suit and countersunk. The stem is screwed in up to a shoulder and riveted over. The valve should now be truly centred at each end and turned to the sizes given in Figs. 112 132 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING:. and 113. The part to rest on the seating should not be much more than ^ in. wide, and of an angle corresponding to that of the seating in the valve chamber. The projection and saw-cut on the head is for use when grinding the valve to its seating with a screwdriver, or, better, a screw- driver held in a brace. The valve grinding should be done with flour emery and oil, and may be finished off with powdered pumice and oil after all traces of the emery have been washed away. The hole in the tail end of the valve stem should be drilled ~- in. and opened out to a slight taper. It is for the pin to hold the valve spring up to its work. It may be y ^ in. from the end, but the exact position will depend on the length and r Fig. 114. Inlec Valve. strength of the spring used, and it will be best to leave this hole till the valve and spring are tied in their places. Inlet Valve. With the simple form of car- burettor described on p. 99 the inlet valve will be part of the carburettor, but should it be de- sired to fit any other form of spray or surface type carburettor, then the inlet valve will be re- quired of the size and form of Fig. 114. This should be as light as possible consistent with the work it has to do. The valve body (Figs. 115 and 116) is an iron casting, drilled -% in. and turned to size. The valve must be ground to its seating in the same way as the exhaust valve. Inlet-Valve Spring. The spring for this valve MOTOR FOR ATTACHMENT TO BICYCLE. 133 is much weaker than the exhaust-valve spring, as the valve is opened by the suction of the down- ward stroke of the piston. The end of the spring is passed through the hole drilled in the valve stem, the position of this hole being left till the spring is tried in its place. It is best to buy these valve springs, as they cost only a few pence and are then certainly of a suitable strength. The correct adjustment of the inlet-valve spring is a very important matter, and can only be ar- rived at by trial. If the spring is too strong the valve will not open sufficiently to admit a full Figs. 115 and 116. Body of Inlet Valve. charge of gas, and if too weak it will not close quickly enough, and will thus cause loss of com- pression, and possibly back-firing. Drilling Crank-Chamber Flange. The cylin- der can now be fitted on the crank chamber, and the holes marked off to correspond with the six i-in. holes in the cylinder flange. Place the cylin- der on the crank case with the exhaust-valve guide directly over the centre of the exhaust-cam cham- ber on the crank case. Mark off through the holes in the cylinder flange with a scriber, remove the cylinder, centre-dot the crank-chamber flange- carefully, drill -Jg- in. bare, and tap to suit pins 134 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. i-in. Whitworth threads, using paraffin to lubri- cate the taps. The holes must be tapped care- fully, or the metal will tear and spoil the thread. Remove the tap once or twice, and clear ott the dust to avoid tearing. Then replace the cylinder, fasten it down with three screws, and with a long drill made to fit the bore of the exhaust-valve guide, drill the hole in the cam chamber for the push-rod guide. This will en- sure the push-rod being exactly in line with the valve-stem. Tap it ^-in. Whitworth to suit the .guide, and screw it in place and test for truth. The push-rod will be a short length of steel turned to fit the guide freely, one end, operated by the- cam, being rounded and hardened. The length must be arranged so that with T V in. between the rod and the valve stem the valve shuts down on its seating. The Piston. The piston is shown in section by Fig. 117, and in plan by Fig. 118. The hole for the gudgeon pin is Ij in. from the front of the piston. The ring grooves are ^ in. wide by g in. deep, and are | in. apart. The distance apart of the faces of the bosses for the gudgeon pin is l-g% in. ; this is Tj ^ in. more than the length of the small end of the connecting-rod, a small amount of play being necessary here to prevent the piston binding in the cylinder. Of course, the play must be sideways only, the fit of the pin in the connecting-rod bearing simply allowing it to work quite freely. To attain a high speed with the least possible vibration, the piston, and, in fact, all reciprocating parts, such as the con- necting-rod, should be as light as is possible con- sistent with strength. Hold the piston casting in the chuck by the lug cast on the head, and turn up the outside parallel to a working fit in the cylinder. Take a very fine finishing cut with a freshly ground tool and with a slow feed. When smoothed off with a very fine smooth file, the MOTOR FOR ATTACHMENT TO BICYCLE. 135 piston should fit the cylinder so that if oiled it will sustain its own weight. True up the bottom edge, and turn a very narrow groove, -gV in. deep, T 1 ^ in. from the edge, to facilitate lubrication. The inside should be turned slightly taper as far as the lugs, as shown, the thinnest part being left y 1 ^ in. full thick, and a rim should be left on the inside J in. bare thick, this strengthening the edge somewhat. Face up the head to the lug by Fig. 118. Fig. 117. Figs. 117 and 118. Pisbon of Light-weight Motor. which the casting is held, leaving this part J in. thick. Then with a sharp-pointed tool mark a light line round the centre, as a guide for drilling the gudgeon-pin holes. Then carefully turn the grooves for piston rings. To get them all alike, make a tool, similar to a parting tool, just -^ in. wide and well backed off on each side for clear- ance. Any burr that may have been thrown up should be carefully smoothed off, and the head 136 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. parted otf with a long parting tool. Smooth off the burr, and polish the head with several grades of emery cloth. The more highly finished the head of the sylinder the better, as the burnt gases will then not so readily accumulate onit. If it is held in the vice for polishing, great care must be taken not to grip the thin edge, or it will get cracked. Mark off on the centre line the positions of the pin holes, which must be exactly opposite each other. Drill a shade under the size, and then hand-reamer the holes. In the absence of a reamer the holes should be drilled with a twist drill to finish. The best way to get these holes true is first to drill halfway on tne lathe centre with a small drill, say of ^V i n - diameter. Facing Inside Faces of Bosses. The inside Fig. 119. Gudgeon Pin for Piston. faces of the bosses must now be tooled with a facing cutter, the cutter bar fitting the hole with- out shake. The cutter is fitted to the bar, turned up in place, hardened, and let down to a light brown. To use it, pass the leg of the bar through tne hole, and insert the cutter, and hold the cut- ter bar in the chuck with the back centre as support and feed for the work. Drill a j-in. clearance hole right through one boss, as shown in Fig. 118, to hold the pin in place. One hole in each lug would make a more certain job. The face of the hole should be faced for the head of the pin. Gudgeon Pin. The gudgeon pin (Fig. 119) should be turned from i-in. tool steel ; it should be quite parallel, and fit so as to require driving into place with a mallet. Smooth it off to a high finish, knock it in place, and through the hole in MOTOR FOR ATTACHMENT TO BICYCLE. 137 the boss drill i-in. tapping size. Remove the pin and tap i-in. Whitworth, smooth off the burr, and harden, then polish and let down to a brown shade. Perhaps the easiest way to ensure the tapped hole coming exactly in line with the clearance hole is to knock the pin in place and drill to tapping size right through, then remove the pin, and open out the holes in the lug. When the pin is in place the ends should be clear of the face of the piston ; for if level, or projecting in the slightest, the hard pin will mark the cylinder wnen working. The screw to keep the pin in place may have a cheese head with a screwdriver slot or a square head with a round collar under, similar to those used to fasten the cylinder to the crank case. The latter is better, as the pin should be a very tight fit to avoid any possibility I ./ \ Fi-r. 120. Piston Ring Fig. 121. Better Form of Joint. Piston Ring- Joint. of its coming loose when working, but a box key will be required to screw it up with. Piston Rings. On the fit of these rings much depends, ,as if they are not perfectly fitted, loss of compression, and consequently loss of power, will result. There are several ways of making these rings, and the subject is sufficiently discussed in Chapter IV. (see pp. 57 to 59). A common method in cheap motors is simply to bore up a cylindrical casting, turn the outside to finished size, part the rings, off the required width, and cut them through; but this is bad practice, as there is no spring in the rings to keep them up to their work in the cylinder. Make four rings whilst on the job, as it is very probable that one will be broken in finishing or springing on the piston, and even if not it is well to have a spare 138 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. ring. The rings should now be cut through (see Figs. 120 and 121, and also p. 37). Before the rings are cut through, they should be tried in the piston grooves, and should go to the bottom without shake. If there is any variation in the width of the grooves, number the rings as fitted. Should the rings require easing, place them on a flat board and lightly smooth the sides with a very fine smooth file, taking care to keep the file per- fectly flat. Now, when the rings are cut, press the joint together and try the ring in the groove, and if it is too tight, ease a little off the insides of the joint. They should be without shake, but when the pressure is released the joint will spring Fig. 122. Piston Ring Bored Eccentrically. open. With the rings all fitted and joints made perfectly, they must be sprung together and turned outside to 2i in. in diameter to fit the cylinder bore (see p. 126). Before removing the rings from the jig, try them in the cylinder, and if they are a smooth-working fit within it they can be removed and finally bored out to the finished size, 2Li in. ; this boring will be eccentric with the outside, as shown at Fig. 122, the thick portion measuring ^ in., and the thin part j\5- in., being at the joint. The rings may be held so that all are bored at one opera- tion. Make a band clip, about J in. narrower than the combined width of the rings to be MOTOR FOR ATTACHMENT TO BICYCLE. 139 bored, of sheet steel about -^ in. or ^V in. thick ; clip the rings with the joints tight together, and hold them in a jaw chuck. The rings can be set true by the part of the ring beyond the surface of the clip. Bore with a fine-pointed sharp bor- ing tool with a very light cut and feed. The rings are now finished, and may be sprung on over the head of the piston into place. This has to be done carefully, or a fractured ring will be the result. See that they do not stick in any part of the grooves; if they do, remove and carefully scrape the part to free it. With careful groov- ing and fitting, the rings should just drop down tne grooves by their own weight, but without side shake. Connecting-rod. -The connecting-rod (Figs. 123 and 124) can now be machined. Set the casting as true as possible, chuck the large end, and bore it out | in. Chuck the small end, and bore it f in. In chucking the small end, set it so that the two bores are parallel and with the centres 5| in. apart. It is usual in doing this work first to mark off the faces of the bosses on a level surface with a scribing block, and centre-dot the circles on these faces ; but with the special set of castings designed for this motor, if the bosses are set true with the- outsides, the bores will come exactly 5f in. apart without marking off. The phosphor- bronze bushes for the two ends may now be pre- pared. Chuck the large one, and bore and reamer it out f in. The small bush is finished -.?- in. in diameter. Knock each bush on a true mandrel of the proper size, and turn the large one f in. full and the small one f in. full. They should be a very tight fit for their respective bores, as they are to be shrunk in place. Heat the boss of the 'connecting-rod to about the heat of a hot solder- ing iron, and knock the bush in quickly with a mallet, or press it in between the vice jaws, and cool at once in cold water. If this is properly 140 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. done, the bushes will never shift; but if thought desirable, or if the bushes are found to be not so tight a fit as" was intended, a hole may be drilled half in the bush and half in the boss, and a small screw or peg may be driven in, and cut off Hush. Now face off the sides on the mandrel in the lathe centres to the dimensions given in t'ig. 123, leaving no more projecting on one side Fi and on a small stud running in the chuck turn up the small recesses shown at B (Fig. 131) on the ends to fit tight in the f-in. bore of the top casting. File up, and solder securely in place. Chuck the bottom plate casting with the long end, turn the edge of the plate to fit the recess in the body casting tight, and turn the sides until it is a shade thinner than the depth of the recess in the body casting ; slightly chamfer the outside edge to allow of the edge of the body casting being riveted over to secure the bottom to the main body. Turn the short -stem to f in. diameter, and leave it i in. long; drill up with a small drill for about J in., remove from the chuck, and turn down the conical end f in. at the base by f\- in, at the summit by f in. long. While in the lathe, mark a line - in. from the edge for the centre of the holes to be drilled in the plate ; these, six in number, are T 7 2 - in. in diameter. Knock on the bottom (but do not rivet it over yet), and secure the top part to the body. A drill must now be made with a f-in. shank, and the end turned down and formed into a -jfV m - drill. This drill will be 4 in. at least over all, but the TfVin. Part should be kept short- to avoid spring, say f in. The hole in the conical part of the bot- tom may now be truly started by passing the drill right through the top and valve stem guide while the bottom part is supported on the back centre. The hole will be f in. deep of this size ; the en- larged portions can be drilled on the centres when taken apart. The bottom end will be drilled and tapped to suit the size of the petrol regulating 152 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. tap used. The remainder of this end up to the ^f-in. hole being -/$ in., the top end is also opened out this size for ^ in. down. This may appear to be an elaborate method of drilling this portion, but it is quite necessary, as it must be perfectly true with the valve stem guide to ensure free and proper working of the needle valve. The needle valve should now be made. The stem should be turned from a piece of iVin. -steel. The finished size is Ij in. long by i in. at the screwed part, the end being turned down to fit loosely the aVin. hole in the top of the conical part, termin- ating in a point of about 30 ; the side of this stem where it enters the ^-in. hole should have a flat filed on it to within -Jg- in. of the point, to Fig. 133. Valve Stem Guide of Spray Carburettor. allow the petrol to flow by freely. The plate c (Fig. 131) should be drilled and tapped to fit the stem tight, a small lock-nut fitted, and then turned up in its place, lj in. diameter by about / T in. thick. It should be fixed on its stem in such a position that when the needle valve is ground into its seat the plate will only barely touch its seating that is, the plate resting on its seating must not prevent the needle valve closing the petrol inlet thoroughly, or the carburettor will flood and work irregularly. A saw-cut should be put in the head of the stem for a screwdriver to be used in grinding in the valve. The throttle valve may next be finished. This is shown at D (Figs. 131, 132 and 134), and is for SPRAY CARBURETTOR FOR MOTOR. 153 throttling or shutting off the amount of gas ad- mitted to the cylinder. Drill a fVin. hle through the central collar E (Fig. 132), and turn up the small casting D (Fig. 134) to fit. The lever and stem, which are in one piece, pass through the main castings. The end which comes through may be screwed to receive a small nut or riveted over to secure it. The D section part of the stem which passes through should be filed so that the D section joins the round exactly at the sides of the f-in. hole that is, the D part will be i in. long. A |-in. disc of sheet brass, about No. 22 gauge, must be cut out truly circular to fit the bore of the body casting, this being slipped into Fig. 134. Section of Carburettor Throttle Stem. place and secured to the stem by soldering or riveting. It must allow the lever to work freely, and yet close the f-in. opening when shut. It is not necessary that this should be a gas-tight fit when shut, but it should close the opening effec- tively. When the lever of the throttle is at right angles to the perpendicular, the disc is not quite shut, this being provided for when filing the flat on the D section part of the stem. The reason for this ig that correct movement of the operating lever on the machine is facilitated thereby. The end of lever D is drilled with a -in. hole. The split lug F should be drilled to J-in. tapping size, one- half opened out to J-in. clearance and tapped ^-in. Whitworth, the clearance side being faced level with a facing cutter. Saw through with a hack-saw 154 MOTOE BICYCLE BUILDING. to just below the lug, and smooth off the "fraze." The extra air inlet G (Fig. 132) should be drilled | in. and faced off. The cover and lever should be filed up and drilled, the end | in., and the pivot hole the same ; it should be placed in position as shown, and the position of the hole for the screw marked off, drilled, and tapped to suit the thread of the screw used. The |-in. opening may have a very fine copper gauze disc soldered in to keep out the dust. The wire gauze cone H (Fig. 131) should now be marked off and cut out as in Fig. 135, bent to shape, soldered together at the edges, and soldered all round the top and bottom edges to Fig.- 135. Pattern lor Gauze Cone.' the carburettor bottom before the latter is finally riveted in place. In soldering the bottom edge to the plate, care should be taken not to allow any solder to fall on the part which rests on the recess of the body, or it will not bed truly thereon, and therefore the central hole in the conical part will be thrown out of line with the valve stem guide. A very light spiral spring (not shown) will be re- quired, fitted between the cross-bar of A and the top of the valve plate c. This quickens the action, and ensures the needle valve remaining on its seat when much vibration is set up. The carbu- rettor will work without a spring in ordinary circumstances, but it is better, to fit one. The strength may be arrived at by turning the carbu- rettor upside down, with the spring in place, when SPRAY CARBURETTOR FOR MOTOR. 155 it should a little more than balance the weight of the valve. A petrol regulating tap should be fitted to the bottom of the carburettor by screwing in with a leather washer between, to make a petrol-tight joint. This tap must fit well, and have a well- fitting washer, as petrol is very thin, and will work its way through the smallest aperture. A suitable tap for this purpose is one of French make of 2 millimetres bore, with connecting union. These can be obtained from almost any factor of motor fittings. Fig. 136. Induction Pipe and Union Nut. The finish may be left in the brass, polished, or nickel-plated, as desired. A very nice finish may be obtained by having the body part dull- plated, and the small levers, screws, etc., plated and polished. The connecting pipe (Fig. 136) will be a piece of 1-in. by No. 16 gauge steel cycle tube, about 9 in. long, bent to the desired shape. One end will fit into the top of the carburettor, being secured by tightening the pin of the split lug on the carburettor ; to the other end is brazed a steel washer, li in. in diameter, with |-in. bore and 156 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. 5 in. thick. This must be faced and trued up on the edges. The union nut (Fig. 137) is made from a brass or gunmetal casting to the dimensions and shape shown in Figs. 136 and 137. The threaded portion is l T " (i in. by twenty threads to suit the " Work " motor, and the flange is filed up to a hexagon. Besides the hexagon for screw- ing up, it is advisable to drill three or four g-in. tommy holes in the top portion, so that if a large spanner is not available, a punch, or even a large Fig. 137. Plan of Union Nut. nail, may be used to undo the nut should occasion arise on the road to have to take this off for repairs or adjustment. A hole about -- in. diameter should be drilled in the top part of the induction pipe as near over the centre of the inlet valve as possible, for in- jecting paraffin to facilitate easy starting. This hole may be covered with a small spring oil-hole cover, as used on bicycle hubs. The section of the nut in Fig. 136 is through the line A B (Fig. 137). INDEX. Advance Sparkin 122 Air-release Valve, 69 Axle, Bottom Bracket, 37 Back Fork Crown Pattern 20 Ball-head, Fitting, 42 Pattern, 27, 28 Ball-races, Fitting, 36, 37 Bearing Bushes, 71 Belt Pulley, Engine, 84-86 Bobbin for Ignition Coil, 10 110 Bolt Holes in Crank Case, 68 Bolts for Crank Case, 68 - , Engine, Fitting, Boring Bar for Cyl Cylinder, 47-52 , , for Cylinder, 126 Tube Lugs, 32, 33 Bottom Bracket, 32 Axle, Fitting, 37, 38 , Brazing Tubes to, 40-42 Brazing Tubes to Bottom Bracket, 40-42 Bushes, Engine, 71, 124 in Gear Cover, 73 for Half-time Shaft, 72 of Connecting-rod, 74-76 , Main-shaft, 72 . Tappet-rod, 73, 74 Carburettor Float-feed Cham ber, 97, 98 for IJ-h.p. Motor, Making, 149-156" , Function of, 97, 98 . Spray, for 3J-h.p. Motor, , Surface, 97 Cam, Exhaust, 87, 88 Case, Crank (see Crank Case) Castings, Building Frame from, 32-46 , Frame, Patterns for, 16-31 Chater Lea's Fittings for Tan- dem, 15 Coil Bobbin, 109, 110 , Compound Primary, with Trembler Break, 107 Condenser, 110, 111 Connections, 115 , Ebonite Shell for, 108. 109 for 3J-h.p. Motor, 104-117 Apparatus, ' Coil, Fitting, to Case, 116 Insulation of, 108, 109 Heads for. 105 Primary, 104-107 19, Secondary, 109 Trembler for, 111-114 Wire for, 109 Working of, 116 Condenser for Ignition Coil, 110, 111 Connecting-rod Bushes, 74-76 for IJ-h.p. Motor, 139-141 Contact-breaker, 90 Core-boxes, 16 , Dowelling Halves of, 31 | Core-prints, Painting, 30 Cores, Oval, 31 , Round, 30, 31 Crank Case for IJ-h.p. Motor, 120 , Attaching Cylinder to, 69, 70 , Bolt Holes in, , Bolting up, 92 Cover for IJ-h.p. Motor, 123, 124 , Cylinder End of, , Fitting Cylinder 92, 93 , Machining, 65, , Oil Holes in, 69 Chamber Flange, Drilling, - Disc of IJ-h.p. Motor, 143, Crank of IJ-h.p. Motor, 142 Pin, 79, 144 Lock-nut, Safety Lock for, 87 Cranked Tubes, 10 Crown, Back Fork, Fitting, 33 , , Pattern for, 19, i , Front Fork, Fitting, 35 i , , Pattern for, 27 ' Cylinder, Boring, 47-52, 126, 127 Bottom, Flange on, 53 . Castings for IJ-h.p. Motor, End of Crank Case, 66 6R , Fitting Crank r aS 8 to, 92, 93 Flange, 128, 129 158 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. Cylinder, Lapping out, 56, 57 Mouth, Machining Cham- Front Fork Ends, Pattern for, 23 fer at, 52 Forks, 10 of IJ-h.p. Motor, 126, 127 Parts, Fitting, to Rear, 43 3J-h.p. 'Motor, 47-52, 56, 69, 92 Gauge Numbers of Tubes, 14 Gear Cover, Bush in, 73 to Crank Case, Attaching, , Engine, 11 69, 70 Wheel, Keyway in Large, , Turning Outside of, 53 89 Dowelling Halves of Core- Wheels of IJ-h.p. Motor, boxes, 31 145 Drilling Girder Tube Stays, 34, 3J-h.p. Motor, 88, Driving, System of. 11 Gear-case Cover, 70 Ebonite Shell for Coil, 108, 109 Gear-side Main Shaft, 80-81 Engine, Assembling, 91-93 Girder Tube Lugs, Pattern for, Belt Pulley, 84-86 26 Bolts, Fitting, 39 Stays, Drilling, 34, 35 Gear, 11 Grinding Valves, 63 Lugs, Fitting, 33 Gudgeon Pin, 82, 83 , Rear, Pattern for, 20, Hole of Piston, 54, 55 21 Half-time Shaft, 81 Plates, Fitting, 36, 45 , Bush for, 72 , Pattern for, 29 Handle-bar, 11 , Timing, 93, 94 Head Lugs, Fitting, 34 Exhaust Cam, 87, 88 , Pattern for, 24, 25 Shaft, 146 Ignition Cams for IJ-h.p. Motor, Bushing, 120, 121 147, 148 Pipe, 96 Coils (see Coils) Opening, 53, 129, 130 , Timing, 94, 95, 147, 148 Valve Guide, 59, 60 Induction Pipe, 89, 90 Lift, 74 , Union Nut for, 76, 77 Valves, 60-62, 129, 147, 148 Inlet Valve for IJ-h.p. Motor, Eye, Top Stay, 22 132, 133 Flange on Cylinder Bottom, 53 , Top, 121, 122 - for 3J-h.p. Motor, 62, 63 Float-feed Chamber of Car- Insulation of Ignition Coils, burettor, 97, 98 108, 109 Flywheel and Pulley for IJ-h.p. Keywavs, Cutting, in Shafts, Motor, 144, 145 83, "84 Flywheels, 77-79 Lapping out Cylinder, 56 - , Balancing, -92 Leadbeater and Scott's Axle Fork Crown, Back, Fitting, 33 Stamping, 37 , , Pattern for, 19, " Leave " on Patterns, 29 20 Lock-nut, Fitting, to Steering , Front, Fitting. 35 Tube, 38 , , Pattern for, 26, , Pinning, to Shaft, 87 27 Lugs, Engine, Fitting, 33 Ends, Front, Fitting, 33, 34 , , Pattern for, 20, 21 , , Pattern for, 23, , Fork, 19 24 . Girder Tube, Pattern for, , Rear, Pattern for, 21, 26 22 , Head. Fitting, 34 , , Setting, 40 , , Pattern for, 24. 25 Lugs, 19 Forks, Back, 10 , Lower Horizontal, Pattern for, 25, 26 , Front, 10, 43-45 , Seat, Fitting, 34 Frame, 9-15 , , Pattern for, 25 , Building up. 32-46 , Steering-tube, Fitting, 35, Castings, Patterns for, 36 16-31 , , Pattern for, 27 , Dimensions of, 10, 11 , Tube. Boring, 32, 33 , Final Setting of, 46 , , Fitting, 34 , Forks for, 10 Main-shaft Bushes, 72 , Tubes for, 10 , Gear-side, 80, 81 INDEX. 159 Main-shaft of Motor, 79, 80 Motor, 3i-h.p.: Main Shaft, 79, -, Pulley Side, 80 80, 81 Metal Patterns, 31 , : Piston, 53-59 Motor, li-h.p., 118-148 , : Rings, 57, 58 , : Advance Sparking , : Pulley, 80, 86 Apparatus, 122 , : Boring out Valve , : Silencer, 95, 96 , : Tappet Rod, 81, 82 Chamber, 129 , : Timing, 93, 94 -, : Bushes, 124 , : Union Nut, 76 , : Carburettor, 149-156 -, : Valve Seating, 52, 53 , .- Connecting Rod, 141 , : Spring, 64 , .- Crank Case 120 , : Disc, 143, 144 , : Valves, 59-65 Mud-guards, 11, 12 , : Pin, 144 Oil Holes in Crank Case, 69 , : Cylinder Boring Bar, 126 Oil-pipe Connection, Hole for, 69 , : Castings, 125-129 , : Flange, 128, 129 Painting Core-prints, 30 Paraffined Paper, Preparing, , : Drilling Crank Cham- 107, 108 ber Flange, 133 Pattern for Back Fork Crown, , : Exhaust Cam Shaft, 19, 20 147 Ball-head, .27, 28 , : and Ignition Bottom Bracket, 16-19 Cams, 146-148 Engine Plates. 29 , : Pipe Opening, - Front Fork Crown, 26, 129, 130 27 , : - Push-rod Guide, - Ends, 23, 24 130 Girder Tube Lugs, 26 , : Valve, 130-132 _ Head Lugs, 24, 25 , : Flywheel and Pulley, -, " Leave " on, 30 144, 145 for ' Lower Horizontal , : Gear Wheels, 145 Lugs, 25, 26 , : Gudgeon Pin, 136 , Metal, 31 , : Ignition, 149 for Rear Engine Lug, 20, 21 , : Inlet Valve, 132, 133 Fork Ends, 21, 22 , : Main Axle, 141 Seat Lug, 25 , : Piston. 134-139 Steering Tube Lugs, , : Shaft and Crank, 142 27, 28 , : Spray Carburettor, Top Stay Eye, 22 Patterns for Frame Castings, , : Top Flange, 121, 122 , : Valve Chamber 129 16-31 , Wood for, 16 , 3J-h.p., 47-96 Petrol Vaporisation, 104 , : Assembling, 91-93 Pin, Crank, 79, 80 , : Boring Cylinder, 47, , Gudgeon, 82, 83' Pipe, Exhaust, Opening for, 53 , : Bushes, 71-76 , Induction or Inlet, 89. 90 , : Connecting - rod Bushes, 74-76 Piston of IJ-h.p. Motor, 134-139 , Gudgeon Pin for, 136 , : Contact Breaker, 90 , Ring Grooves in, 54 , : Crank Pin, 79 Rings, 57-59, 137-139 , : Crank-case, 65-70 of 34-h.p. Motor, 53-59 , : Exhaust Cam, 87, 88 , Gudgeon-pin Hole of, 54, 55 , : Valve 59-62 Plates, Engine, Fitting, 45 -, : Guide. 57 . , Pattern for, 29 , : Lift, 74 Pulley, Belt, 84-86 , : Spring 63 , Securing, to Shaft, 86, 87 , : Flywheels, 77-79 Side Main Shaft, 80 , : Gear-case Cover, 70 Rear Fork Ends, Pattern for, , : Gear Wheels, 88, 89 21, 22 , : Gudgeon Pin, 82, 83 Ring Grooves in Piston, 54 , : Half-time Shaft, 81 Rings, Piston, 57-59 . : Induction Pipe, 76, Rod, Tappet, 81, 82 77, 89, 90 Seat Lug, Fitting, 34 -, : Inlet Valve, 62, 63 - Pattern, 25 160 MOTOR BICYCLE BUILDING. Shaft, Half-time, 81 , Main, 79, 80 (see Main Tube Stays, Drilling Girder, 34, Shaft) , Pinning Lock-:iut to, 87 Tubes, Brazing, to Bottom Bracket, 40-42 , Securing Pulley to, 86, 87 Shafts, Cutting Keyways in, 83, , Cranked, 10 , Gauge Numbers of, 14 84 , Main-frame, 10 Silencer, 95, 96 , Sizes of, 14 , Exhaust Pipe for, 96 for Tandem, 15 Spray Carburettor for IJ-h.p. Union Nut for Induction Pipe, Motor, 149-156 76, 77 3J-h.p. Motor, 98- Valve. Air-release, 69 103 Chamber, Boring out, 129 Springs, Valve, 64 , Exhaust, for IJ-h.p. Motor, Stay Eye, Top, Pattern for, 22 130-132 Stays, Back, 10 , for 3J-h.p. Motor, 60- , Top Back, Fitting, 43 62 Steering Tube, Fitting Lock-nut , , Lift of, 74 to, 38, 39 , , Timing, 147, 148 Lug Casting, Fitting, , Inlet, for IJ-h.p. Motor, 35, 36 132, 133 , Pattern for, 27 , , for 3J-h.p. Motor, 62, Surface Carburettor, 97 63 Tandem, Tubes for, 15 Seating, 52, 53 . Chater Lea's Fittings for, Springs, 63, 64 15 Stems Breaking, 64, 65 Tappet Rod, 81, 82 Valves, Grinding, 63 Bush, 73 Waste-oil Outlet, 69 Throttle Valve, 152, 153 Wheel Base, 14 Timing Engine 93. 94 Wheels, Gear, 88. 89, 145 Exhaust Valve, 147, 148 , , Keyway in Large 89 - Ignition, 94, 95, 148 , Road. Size of, 11 Trembler for Ignition Coil, 111- Wire for Ignition Coil, 109 114 Wood for Patterns. 16 Tube Lugs, Boring. 32, 33 Working Drawings, Preparation - , Fitting, 34 of, 12, 14 PRINTED BY CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, LUDOATF. HILL, LONDON, E.G. HANDICRAFT SJS-RJgS (continued). Electro- Plating. With Numerous Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. introduction. Tanks, Vats, and other Apparatus. Batteries, Dynamos, and Electrical Accessories. Appliances for Preparing and Finishing Work. Silver-Plating, Copper-Plating. Gold-Plating. Nickel Plating and Cycle-Plating. Finishing Electro-Plated Goods. Electro-Plating with Various Metals and Alloys. Index. Clay Modelling and Plaster Casting. With 153 Engravings and .Diagrams. Contents. Introduction. Drawing for Modellers. Tools and Material for Modelling. Clay Modelling Modelling Ornament. Modelling the Human Figure. Waste-moulding Process for Plaster Casting. Piece-moulding and Gelatine Moulding. Taking Casts from Nature. Clay Squeezing or Clay Moulding. Finishing Plaster Casts. Picture Frame in Plaster. Index. Violins and Other Stringed Instruments. With about 180 Illustrations &//*. Materials and Tools for Violin Making. Violin Moulds. Violin Making. Varnishing and Finishing Violins. Double Bass and a Violoncello. Japanese One string Violin Mandolin Making. Guitar Making. Banjo Making. Zither Making Dulcimer Making. Index. Glass Writing, Embossing, and Fascia Work, (including the Making '.d r ixing of Wood Letters and Illuminated Signs.) With 129 Illustrations. Contents. Plain Lettering and Dimple Tablets. Gold Lettering. Blocked Letters. Ste-cil Cutting. Gold Etching. Embossing. French or Treble Embossing. Incised Fascias, Stall-plates, and Grained Background. Letters in Perspective; Spacing Letters. Arrangement of Wording and Colors. Wood Letters Illuminated Signs. Temporary Signs for Windows. Imitation Inlaid Signs. Imitation Mosaic Signs. Specimen Alphabets. Index. Photographic Chemistry. With 31 Engravings and Diagrams. Contents. Introductory : Relation of Chemistry to Photography. Some Fundamental Chemical Laws. Meaning of Symbols and Equations. Water: its Properties and Impurities. Oxygen and Hydrogen Photographically Con- sidered. Theories Concerning the Latent Image. Chemistry of Development, Toning, Intensification, etc. Nitrogen Compounds Employed in Photography. The Halogens and Haloid Salts. Sulphur and its Compounds. Metals, Alkali Metals, etc. Organic or Carbon Compounds used in Photography. Pyroxyline, Albumen, Gelatine, etc. Benzene and the Organic Developers. Index. Photographic Studios and Dark Rooms. With 180 Illus- trations. Contents. Planning Studios. Building Studios. Portable and Temporary Studios. Studios Improvised from Greenhouses, Dwelling Rooms, etc. Lighting of Studios. Backgrounds. Scenic Accessories. Dark-Rooms. Portable Dark-Rooms. Dark-Room Fittings. Portable Dark Tent. Index. Motor Bicycle Building. With 137 Illustrations and Diagrams. Contents. Frame for Motor Bicycle. Patterns for Frame Castings. Build- ing Frame from Castings. Making 3i H. P. Petrol Motor. Spray Carburettor for si H. P. Motor. Ignition Coils for Motor Cycles. Light-weight Petrol Motor for Attachment to Roadster Bicycle. Spray Carburettor for Light- weight Motor. Index. Other Volumes in Preparation. DAVID McKAY Publisher, 610 South Washington Square, Philadelphia. This book is ni IE ~* ' Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. UL :xt. Hh, DEC 2 6 Sh 2WEEKLOA THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES TECHNICAL Practical Handrailini Contents. Principles of hi Drawing, Simple Handrails. The Uses of Models Obtain Construction and Use. Twi: Orthogonal or Right-angle Sy: for Stone Stairs. Setting ou Caps. Intersecting Handrails Practical BrtckWork. With 368 niu and Flemish Bonds. Bonds for Angles. Excavations, Foundations, and F< 000 882431 ations. ion of Terms. Geometrical s on the Cylindrical System, evels. Face Moulds : their Completing the Handrail, ithed Handrails. Handrails ails. Setting out Moulded ,. Index. ^ Garden and Boundary Walls. unctior atings. Jum of Cross Walls. Reveals, Piers. Angles and other Bonds. Jointing and Pointing. Damp-proof Courses and Construction. Hollow or Cavity Walls. Chimneys and Fireplaces. Gauged Work and Arches. Niches and Domes. Oriel Windows. Practical Painters' Work. With Numerous Illustrations. Contents. Objects, Principles and Processes of Painting. Painters' Tools and Appliances. Materials used by Painters.- Preparing Suifaces for Paint- ing, Painting Woodwork, Painting Ironwork, Painting Stucco or Plaster: Distempering and Whitewashing Color Combination. House Painting. Varnish and Varnishing. Stains and Stafnirig. Estimating and Measuring Painters' Work. Index. *^ Textile Fabrics and Their Preparation for Dyeing. With Numerous Illustrations. Contents. Cotton. Flax, Jute, and" China Grass. Wool. Silk. Cotton Bleaching. Linen Bleaching. Mercerising. Wool Scouring and Bleaching, Scouring and Bleaching Silk. Water. About Dyeing. Index. Coloring Matters for Dyeing Textiles. With Numerous Illustrations. Contents. Indigo Coloring Matters. Logwood Coloring Matters. Natural Red and Yellow Coloring Matters. Aniline Coloring Matters. Azo Coloring Matters. Anthracene Coloring Matters. Chrome Yellow, Iron Buff, Man- ganese Brown, Prussian Blue, Method of Devising Experiments in Dyeing. of the Value of Coloring Matters. Index. Estimation Sanitary Construction in Building. Wit Contents. Introductory. Soils, Subsoils, and Sites. A With 131 Illustrations. Materials of Construc- tion. Footings, Foundations, and Damp-proof Courses. Stability of Walls. Roofs. Floors, Hearths, and Staircases. Air Space and Ventilation. A Typical Dwelling. Index. Iron: Its Sources, Properties, and Manufacture. With Numerous Illustrations. Contents. Introductory; Terms Explained. Refractory Materials, Crucibles, etc. Ores of Iron. Metallurgical Chemistry of Iron. Cast Iron or Pig Iron. Preparation of the Ores. Changes in the Blast Furnace. Blast Furnace. Air Supply. Blowing Engines Working the Blast Furnace. By-products. Malleable or Wrought Iron. . Production of Malleable Iron. Preparation of Malleable Iron in Open Hearths. Puddling. Refining Pig Iron and Dry Puddling. Forge Machinery. Iron-rolling Mill. Index. Other New Volumes in Preparation. DAVID McKAY, Publisher, 610 South Washington Square, Philadelphia. (BOOKSELLERS) STA