HE. ORLD m IN THE WILLIAM E.BARTON ^#7^"' \) fe O THE OLD WORLD IN THE NEW CENTURY BEING THE NARRATIVE OF A TOUR OF THE MEDITERRANEAN, EGYPT AND THE HOLY LAND, WITH SOME INFORMATION ABOUT THE VOYAGE AND PLACES VISITED FOR THE BENEFIT OF THOSE WHO HA\'E MADE THE lOURNEY AND WISH TO REMEMBER IT; THOSE WHO HOPE TO MAKE THE JOURNEY AND WISH TO PREPARE FOR IT; AND THOSE WHO CANNOT MAKE THE JOURNEY AND WISH TO READ ABOUT IT HV WILLIAM E. BARTON, D. D. PASTOR OF THE FIRST CONGREGATIONAI. CHURCH, OAK PARK, ILLINOIS ASSOCIATE EDITOR OF THE BIBLIOTHECA SACRA; AUTHOR OF "THE PSA1,MS AN'D THEIR STORY," "A HERO IN HOMESPUN," " PINE KNOT," "FAITH AS RELATED TO HEALTH," ETC. Unril TWO ]IU.\DRED A.\D FORTY / LLCSTRA/ fO \ S AfOS? OF THEM MADE FROM PHOTOGRAPHS ESPECIALLY FOR TITTS WORK ^ BOSTON AND CHK AGO Z\)c p i I g r i w\ p V c t^ i? 1902 Copyright, 1902 BY WILLIAM E. BARTCIN R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS COMPANY. PRINTERS CHICAGO TO THOSE WHO TARRY WITH THE STUFF 8^" rTS29 PKR IWININCi I'D riLCiR IMAGES Accept lliis ill ;icknouli'c.lt;iin'iu ot iliy TrMViiil, ami ofjllic Shriiu'S thou hast visited. — Lady J\(i~veiii}, ill /-utii/ioe Thanno longon folk to goii on I'ilui images.— C/zi/z/ivv Few ijveat Pilyriiiis bcconu' I'iniiiont Saints.— yV/owti'.v liA'ew/'is lie that on PiliiiiniaKCS goetli ever, Becomctli Holy late or never.— O/*/ I'rorcrh Give nic my Scallop .'>hell of Quiet. My Statfe of Faith to walke upon. My Scrip of Joye, immortal dyet. My Bottel of Salvation; My Gown of Gloria (Hope's true gage!), And thus I'll take niv Pi!<,'rima^e ! —Sir Walter Raleigh But they knew they were Pilgrims and looked not mucli on those things. But lift up their eyes to ye Heavens, their dearest Cuntrie, and quieted their Spirits. —Governor Bradford, of the Pilgrim Fathers \o\\ charm my heart; You quite delight it; ril make a Tour, and then I'll write it You well know what my Pen can do, .\nd I'll employ my Pencil, too; I'll prose it here, and verse it there. And Picturesque it everywhere, — With every other leaf a Print, Of some fine view in aqua tint ! Such is the Book 1 mean to make. .And I've no doubt the Work will take ! For, though your wisdom may decry it, The simple Folk will surely buy it! — The Tour of the Reverend Doctor Syntax This Book will make a Traveller of thee, If by its Council thou wilt ruled be; It will direct thee to the Holy Land If thou wilt its Directions understand. This Book is writ in such a dialect .\s may the minds of listless men affect: It seems a Novelty, and yet contains Nothing but sound and honest Gospel-strains. Would'st thou divert thyself from Melancholy ? Would'st thou be pleasant, yet be far from folly By reading these same lines ? Oh, then come hither, -Vnd lay my Book, thy Head and Heart together! —Prologue to Pilgrim's Progress CONTENTS CHAPTER I EASTWARD HO! An ideal and a proposition. Tiie cruise of the greatest ship aHoat. What it takes to feed S30 Americans. Studying the passenger list. The Innocents .\broad. past and present. How it feels wtien the time comes. The last composite shout of farewell. Reams of paper and 10.000 postal cards. Americans as tourists. Passports and cures for seasickness. How they stowed us away. The passing of the diary. What they do on shipboard. Heart to heart talks with Baedeker. Little seasickness. Don't crowd the gangway 17 CHAPTER n MADEIRA, THE LAND OF THE WINE A surprise and a delight. The city of Funchal. The amphibious natives. High regard for .'\nierican coin. The carro, yclept " the bully cart." Five dollars and up. The European plan with modifications. The rear platform of a table d'hote. The Casino. A smooth game. Imports from .America. Do we want any more islands? Climate and courtship. A man who spoke English. Where Columbus lived. .\ romantic story. .-\ Paradise of good health. Statistics for those who want them. Madeira, a dream of beauty 31 CHAPTER HI GIBRALTAR, THE BRITISH LION IN STONE When there was no Gibraltar. The home of a hundred civilizations. The overflowing 'ot water and of population. The Pillars ol Hercules. The strife of the Moors and the Spaniards. How the word '" tariff " came to be. Gibraltar, and the discovery of .America. The American consul. Much depends upon the weather. The ridiculous hat of Tommy .Atkins. The uselessness of Gibraltar. Linia and the bull ring. Great Britain's rock and ours 46 CHAPTER IV ALGIERS, THE HOME OF THE PIRATES Our various experiences in landing. Rocked in the cradle of the deep. The pliysical expression of incompetence .A perilous endeavor. The breakwater, erected by Christian slaves. .Algerian hotels. A wet sheet and a flowing sea. Washington's birthday. The history of .Algiers. Cab-diivers and interpreters. A beautiful city. Its varied life. The principal sights. Entertainments. The Boers and their .\lgerian sympathizers. The pilgrims to Mecca, and their greeting 56 CHAPTER V MALTA, WHERE KNIGHTHOOD WAS IN FLOWER .A small, hut interesting island. Where Calypso wooed Ulysses. The scene of Paul's ship- wreck. N'aletta and its ama/ing fortifications. The ancient capital, Citta A'eccia, it^ grottos and catacombs. The history of the Knights of .St. John. Our indignation meeting. The interesting spots in V'aletta. Lace and rtlagree work. The faldetta. A delightful memory 73 CHAPTER VI ATHENS, AND OUR HAPPY VISIT TO GREECE Living Greece a reality. The past and present in Athens. A fJreek school. 'I'he .American College. The Pineus. and the view from there. The Temple of Theseus. The .Acropolis. No relic hunters need apply. Lord I*".lgin, and how the Greeks love Inm. The Greek soldier and the .American girl. Mars Hill. Paul's sermon and its results. Mary trrj/ztMinerva. Honey from llvmellus. The King of (jreece, and how an .\merican presented hinisclf at court. Sailing the Bay ol Plialeron. Sunset on Salamis. The stowaway. " Maid of Athens, ere we part." 85 lo CONTENTS CllAlM'KR VII CONSTAN riNOPLK, TUl'. CROSS AM) IIU; t_ RESCENT rill' unused stovopipos. How one suttois with colli in warm iliniatos. Distance leniis encliantuu'nt. Boarded by Turks. A pile of passports. TJu- .American consul- general. Robert College, and the Ciirls' College at Skutari. How we invaded the old harem. By the Sultan's special permission. Dogs in the streets. Moses and Faraway Moses. ThcCJalata bridge. The Hippodrome, and its three noted monu- ments. The famous cistern. .\ subterranean cathedral. The Uw courts of ancient days. Museums and mosques. Saint Sophi-i. Turkisli delii^lit and thint;s un- known. The founding of New Rome. The castle of Kuniili llissar. The prophecy of proximity. The stars and stripes on the Castle of Oblivion qS CHAPTER VIII SMYRNA AND EPHESUS Smyrna more interestini; than the guide-books tell. Its quay, streets, crowds, and traui-cars. How it seems to be thought a millionaire. Where were Carnegie and Rockefeller.' The camels are coming. The biilliplaces of Homer. The tomb of Polycarp. From Smyrna to Ephesus. Diana of the Ephesi^ns no longer great. Relics, ancient and otherwise. The girls from the American school. Patmos, and our packing.. 113 CHAPTER IX FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE HOLY LAND The crescent on Carmel. The famous Bay of Acre. Our favorable landing. Our pilot. See Galilee first. Our first lunch. Our dragomen. Silah the righteous. Harosheth of the (ientiles. Beautiful Galilee. Our camp. The physical features of Palestine Unexpected beauty of the land 121 CHAPTER X NAZARETH, THE BOYHOOD HOME OF JESUS Nazareth a good place for Jesus to sp<"nd his youth. The Church of the Annunciation. The ubiquity of the supernatural. The shop ot Joseph, real and pretended. Our dragoman on the Carpenter of Galilee. Nazareth industries. Naife. Nazareth widows. "The Madonna-like beauty" of Nazareth girls. The Fountain of the Virgin 137 CHAPTER XI AMONG THE HILLS OF GALILEE Early rising in camp. The bell-mule. The bother of having to doubt. The birthplace of •Jonah. Cana of Galilee. Sacred places in duplicate. The wine of modern Cana. Mary, and her portrait. The Greek school. Christ's first miracle. The woman at the mill. Inside a Jewish oven. Why exjilorers must dig. The fertility of the plain of Esdraelon. The battle of Hattin. Tiberius, its history and present con- dition. Hated by the jews, and later the center of Jewish learning. The fleas of Tiberias. The hospital, and its good work. How a patient showed his gratitude. The Sea of Galilee. A boat race. Possible modern apostles 154 CHAPTER XII A RIDE THROUGH SAMARIA Rough roads. The coal-oil can versus the water-pot. Nain and Shunen. Two Bible women. The home of a witch. Jezreel, the home of Ahab. "Bakshish." Plowing. The Bible and Baedeker. Absent luxuries. " Oh, for an ice-cream soda!" Jenin. A visit with the governor. The ladies of Palestine, and their costumes. Dothan, and its memories of ICIisha and Joseph. An iniiiressive Sunday evening 177 CHAPTER XIII THE ANCIENT SAMARITAN CITIES Sabaste. the ancient Samaria. The so-called lost ten tribes. The lepers of Elislia's day. The Crusader church; the tomb of John the Baptist. A Moslem school. Through the fields. The difference between wheat and bread. "An enemy luith done this." The ancient town of .Shecheni. now Naijlus. Mounts l'2bal and Gerizim. Jacob's well. Joseph's tomb. .\ survival among the sects. How the refusal to desert a wife founded a religion. The holy manuscript at Sliechem. An interesting pur- chase. Securing a treasure. A letter from Mark 'J'wain. A place where they lack marriageable women 189 CONTENTS 1 1 CHAPTER XIV SHILOH AND BETHEL '• Through Samaria.'' The shepherds. Palestine villages. The old sanctuary of Shiloh. Winning a wife in the old da\s. The ruse of the old men, and the daring of the young. Shiloh of to-day. The great name and character of Samuel. Turmus Aya. Collecting bakshish from a native. Our nightly guard. Bethel, where Jacob saw his vision. Bireh. The tirst sight of Jerusalem 213 CHAPTER XV JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY Our first knowledge of Jerusalem. Its present condition. American citizens, who are also citizens of Zion. The city walls and gales. The water supply. Jerusalem at night. A Jerusalem calendar. Commercial enterprise. The Mosque of Omar. The rock of sacrifice. Where Mohammed ascended to heaven. The unsupported rock, or tradition. " You go to heaven — halfway." The Mosque of el-.Aksa. The temple site. Christ's last day in the temple. The stables of Solomon. The Jews' wailing- place. The one remaining stone of the teuiple. Has Jerusalem a mission ? 221 CHAPTER XVI JERUSALEM AND ITS ENVIRONS The Holy Sepulcher. The question about Calvai y. The New Calvary, and its unfortunate name. The journey around the walls in Nehemiah's day and now. Siloam. The valley of Jehoshaphat. Gethsemane, and its frauds. The IVIount of Olives. Beth- any, the home of Christ's friends. Lepers outside the gate. The diseased eyes of the people. Religious philanthropy, wise and otherwise. The vision of the triple rain bow 246 CHAPTER XVII JERICHO, JORDAN, AND THE DEAD SEA Down from Jerusalem to Jericho. The inn of the Good Samaritan. The brook Cherith. .\ penitentiary for priests. What a wilderness is like. The Jordan valley. The fountain of Elisha. Modern Jericho. The Dead Sea. The ford of the Jordan; a boat-ride on its turbid waters. Joseph's weird storv of the hvena. Back to lerusa- lem ; " 263 CHAPTER XVI II BETHLEHEM, WHERE ANGELS SANG .A Christian village. Its fjeople and industries. Tomb of Rachel. The scene of Ruth. The home of David. The s|)urious cave, and the genuine. The Church of the Nativity. Why Christians figfit in this, and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. .Xn over- statement corrected. The songs of children in the cave of the nativity. The proof, logical andemotional, of the genuineness of this spot. Jerome, and his great work. Hebron. The oak ot Mamre and the cave of Machpelah. A closing thought on Bethlehem. The star and the song 274 CHAPTER XIX JAFFA, THE ANCIENT JOPPA 'I'he ride from Jerusalem In rail. The plain of Sharon. Lydda. Jaffa of to-day. The pjace where Solomon's material was landed. Wliere lonah sailed. The house of Simon the tanner. Why they disinfected us. The Jews and their cousins, the Phoenicians; a contrast and a conjecture. How the Jaffa boatmen persuade their passengers to contribute. Farewell to Palestine 286 CHAPTER XX RAPID TRANSIT IN THE ORIENi' .\ few remarks. The camel. The roads of Palestine. Preparing highwavs for the king, in the olden limes and now. The horses furnished to tourists. The Palestine donkev. The gift of tongues. What Palestine needs. Money in Palestine. The Turkish government 2<)!; 12 CONTENTS CllAPri'.K XXI EGYPT, THE LAND OF THE Sl'IllNX A contrast between siKlilseeinsr in Palestine and Egypt. I.andina at Alexandria. I'ompey's Pillar. The Septuagint. The Kosetta stone. The fjeonraphy of Kijvpt. .\ reunion at Cairo. The hotels of Ej;vpt. The streets of Cairo. The old Coptic Church. The isle of Roda. The Nilometer. The Ferry. The water-carrier. The Muskey. Old manuscripts and Damascus swords. Memphis, l^ithom. Sakhara. .■\ ^Ioslem anniversary. Mohammedan women. Pharaoh and the trolley. The Pyramids, by moonlight and by dav. How we ascended. A jjuide who could not ask gratuities. The Sphin.x; the true story, of its secret. Memories of the view from Cheops .''ij CHAPTER XXII UP THE NILE liy rail or boat. Sleeping-cars in the land of the Sphinx. Toll el-.\marna and its tablets. The sayings of Christ. A glance at Egyptian hislorv. Lux. .r and its temple. How Pharaoh sat for his portrait. Street fair, .\rabs and Nubians. Relic factories. Monotonous guides. .Abdul and Never Tarry. The vast ruins of Karnak 34.^ CHAPTER XXIII THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS Crossing the Nile. The hand of a muminv. Temple of Seti. Biban el-Muluk. Egyptian theology. Ushabti images, or " answerers." The tombs. Our guide's farewell. Over the mountains alone. Abdul as a purchasing agent. The temple of Hatasu. A victim of flattery. The Ramesseuni. The American mission. Ihe scarab. A contemporary portrait of Cleopatra .377 CHAPTER XXIV NAPLES, POMPEH, AND VESUVIUS Escape from quarantine. Italian immigrants. National Museum at Naples. The sorrows of an art student. The aquarium. The two armies of Italy. Pompeii. The ascent of Vesuvius. Eruptions, ancient and modern. .\ storm on the mountain 402 CHAPTER XXV ROME, THE ETERNAL CITY The arrogance of the plural. A lunch and a midnight dinner. Hotels of Rome. Elevators and ice. A glance at the history of Rome. Hawthorne as a guide. The sights and the peddlers. The holy fire. The Appian Way. The catacombs. IheguoVadis chapel. The Fountains. St. Peter's and St. Paul's 419 CHAPTER XXVI ACROSS EUROPE Breaking up. Pisa. Florence. 'Venice. Milan. St. Gotthard. Lucerne. A sleepless sleeper. Paris, and old friends. Art up to date. An international demonstration. More about giiides. The channel. London. The postponed coronation. Parlia- ment. How Dr. Parker preached at us. How a guide prolonged his lite. lulinburg. Bonnie Dundee. Stirling and Bannockburn. Glasgow. The Burns country. Ihe home of Carly le '♦•♦° CHAPTER XXVII HOMEWARD BOUND A defense of superficial sightseeing. The return of the Celtic. Hopeful immigrants. The label habit. Preface. Finis 477 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 19 2 1 PAGE Jerusalem from the ^Iouxt of Olives Frontispiece. The Good Ship Celtic The Library The Promexade Deck "Farewell, America" 2- Where They Guessed at the Speed 2 s The Maix Saloon 27 Looking for Land 28 "Don't Crowd the Gangway".. 20 Proposed Coat of Arms 30 The Temple of Theseus PAGE Houses of Concrete Roofed WITH Thatch " The Dive for Coin The Trolley Car of Madeira A FuNCHAL Baby-Cab Funchal Harbor From the Casino Madeira Threshing-Floor "Through the Town Rush Foam- ing Mountain Streams".... "Christopher Columbo No Live Here" The British Lion in Stone. "Some Cursed Us by Their Gods" 69 An Arab School -j Where Paul Suffered Shipwreck 7 s The Harbor of Valetta ~- To.MMY Atkins at Malta 7s "It Seems Bewitchingly Unbal- anced" ~.j ^ /9 Valetta as Seen from Ocr Ship Si The Chapel of Bones g^ The Wharf of the Pir^us 86 The Foru.m of Demosthenes S-- 88 35 37 39 41 43 44 47 49 89 "The Envy of the More Timid Girls " "On the Other Side, the Shep- herds Kept Their Sheep 91 Where Paul Preached ix Athens 92 • • • 93 ■ ■ • 95 ... 96 99 Modern Athens The Stadh-.m, Athens Sunset on Salamis The Sublime Porte "This Bridge Ought to Be Marked AS THE Center OF the World "ioi "Here Occurred Contests of Speed and Skill" Map of the Cruise Gibraltar from the Spanish Lines 53 Interior of the Mosque of Smnt Madeira Peasant Girls Spinning 55 ^ Sophia The Public Garden, Algiers 57 "A Terrific Sea Broke, Snapping Our Bow-line" -c^ Tropical Foliage, Public Garden, Algiers 6j "A Street Boldly Carried Up Upon Arches " 63 The Streets Are Series of Stone Stairs" 6- From Unexpected Alleys Emerge Veiled Women"... 67 The People Seemed Glad to See Us" 68 10- 10: 107 109 III 114 Mosque of Ahmed I RuMiLi Hissar and Robert Col LEGE The Bosporus The Quay at Smyrna "An Ancient City with No Ap- pearance OF Antiquity". .. .115 The Tomb of Polycarp 116 Ruins of the Temple of Diana, Ephesus ij- The Gate of Persecution, Ephesus nS Church of St. John, Ephesus no Our Small I'rLoT 122 '4 I.ISI' OK II.I.ISIKA riONS PAGE The Beautiful Harbor ok IIaii a. 123 Joseph the Eloquent 124 Sai.eh the Giant 125 "We Had All the Best Drago- men" 126 The Chief Muleteer 127 The Galilee Lightning Express. 129 SiLAH Stealing the Flag 131 M.w ov Palestine 133 Mount Carmel 1 36 Nazareth 1 3S Our Camp at Nazareth 139 Interior of Tent 141 Attempt to Photograph One Naz- areth Girl 142 Another Attempt 143 Naife of Nazareth 145 Girl With Water-pot 147 The Fountain of the Virgin. . . .149 Nazareth from the Roau to Cana 153 Cana of Galilee 155 Mary of Cana 157 "Two Women Shall Be Grinding at the Mill" 159 Girl Carrying Fuel 161 The Village Oven 163 Tiberias 165 Tell Hum; Shukrey in Fore- ground 167 Landing at Khan Minyeh 170 Embarking at "Seven Springs". 171 Traditional Site of Bethsaida. .173 The Wharf at Tell Hum; Peter, James, and John of To-day . 176 " Bakshish!" 179 Plowing in Palestine 181 Illegal Agriculture 183 Moslem Women of Palestine. . . . 185 Dothan 187 Ancient Samaria of To-day 191 Reading the Gospel Story at Jacob's Well 193 Charm for "Evil Eye" 197 Joseph's Tomb 199 Yakob, Samaritan High Priest. .205 Leaf from Old Samaritan Manu- script 207 page SaM.VKIPAN PKNTATKUfll AND GENE- SIS 211 Jacob's Well 212 "When He Puttetii For 111 llis Own Sin;i':i', I In Goirni Before Them " 214 A Typical Samaritan Village. . .215 The Site of Shiloh 216 Our Camp at Turmus 'Aya 217 Our Party at Bethel 219 The Damascus Gate of Jerusa- lem 223 Inside the Jaffa Gate 225 Jerusalem Water-carriers 227 A Street in Jerusalem 229 Leaf from a Jerusalem Calendar 230 Street Arabs 231 Gambling 232 The Mosque of Omar 233 The Unsupported Rock 235 The Mosque of El-Aksa 237 Jerusalem from Olivet 239 The One Remaining Stone 241 The Jews' Wailing Place 243 Approach to the Holy Sepulcher 247 The Church of the Holy Sepul- cher 248 Interior of Church of the Holv Sepulcher 249 The Holy Sepulcher 251 The New Calvary 252 The Shepherd on Calvary 253 The Mount of Olives 255 An Old Olive-Tree in Gethsem- ane 256 Bethany 257 The Tomb of Lazarus 259 Jerusalem Beggars 261 The Road from Jerusalem to Jericho 264 The Inn of the Good Samaritan . 265 The Brook Cherith 267 Site of Jericho 268 The Fountain of Elisiia 269 j The Dead Sea 270 I The River Jordan; Dr. Josiah Strong in the Foreground. 271 I LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 15 PAGE A Sheik of Jericho 272 A Group of Village Sheiks 273 "O, Little Towx of Bethlehem ". 275 R.\chel's Tomb 277 A Bethlehem Family 279 Resting on the Way to Hebron. 281 The Oak of Abraham 282 The Shepherd's Field 283 Rapid Transit Past and Future. 287 Lydda 289 Among the Rocks in Jaffa HARBOR290 Courtyard, House of Simon the Tanner 291 A Last Look at Jaffa 293 Off for Alexandria 294 An Arab Camp 297 Riding a Camel 299 This Way for the Pyramids. .. .301 A Donkey and His Load in Egypt . 303 A\Modern Balaam 305 Caleel 307 A Picturesque Landing 315 Pompey's Pillar 317 The Rosetta Stone 319 The Streets of Cairo 321 The Minaret of El-Azhur 323 The Old Coptic Church 324 Thf. Sakieh 325 The Xilometer, Isle of R0DA...326 "A Twisted Kind of Rag, and a Goatskin Water-bag" ,^27 Cairo Water-carriers 328 Bridge Across the Nile, Cairo. .329 An Egyptian Woman 330 The Road to the Pyramids 331 ivivpTiAN Village Near the Pyr- amids :i35 Climbing the Pyramids .335 Section of the Great Pyramid. . .336 The Sphinx no Longer Has a Secret 337 Excavating the Sphinx 339 Street Sprinkler 342 A Tell el-Amarna Tablet. Letter from the Governor of Tyre. 345 I'APYRUS Containing "Sayings of Jesus" 347 Map of the Nile 349 The Temple of Luxor 350 Statues of Rameses II. at Luxor 351 The Highest Obelisks in Egypt, Karnak 352 Rameses II. as He Thought He Ought to Look — Statue at Luxor 353 Rameses XL as His Mummy Shows Him 355 One Wife of Rameses IL — Statue AT Luxor 357 Native Nubians 359 First Cataract on the Nile.... 361 Temple of Isis at Phil^ 361 Approach to the Temple at Kar- nak — Avenue of Sphinxes. .363 Portal of Euergetes IL — Abdul in Front 365 Columns — Temple of Khons 367 Ram-headed Sphinxes — Temple of Karnak 369 Columns — -Temple of Karnak... 371 Shishak and His Captives 372 Hypostyle Hall — Temple of Esneh 373 Temple of Edfu 375 Ruins at Karnak 376 Our Party Crossing the Nile.. 379 The Mummy of Seti 1 380 Festival Scene from the Walls of a Theban Tomb 383 The Judgment of Osiris 385 Entrance to the Tomb of Seti 1. 387 Vestibule of the Tomb of Ram- eses VI 389 Seti Offering Wine to Osiris.. 391 Tombs of the Kings from the Mountain Top 392 The Temple of Hatasu 395 The Ramesseum 397 Cleopatra as Understudy for Hatiior 399 Napi-es: Strada del Molo and St. Elmo's Castle 403 Bay of Naples 403 A Neapolitan Team 405 i6 LIST ol l.l.rSTKATIONS I'AGK A Macaroni Factory 407 The Court ok Justice, Pompeii. .400 The Hocse of Pausa, Pompeii. 411 PoMPEiAN Girl 413 Neapolitan Damsei 415 Neapolitan Swaix 415 The Arch of Titus 421 The Forum 423 The Collosseum 423 The Arch of Constantixe 425 Interior of St. Peter's 427 A Constant Scene in St. Peter's 429 The Transfiguration, by Raphael 431 The Phantheon, Rome 433 The Temple of Vesta,' Rome 435 Baptistery, Cathedral, and Lean- ing Tower, Pisa 441 A Group of Fra Angelico Angels, Uffizi Gallery, Florence . .442 The Cathedral and Giotto's Tower, Florence 443 Piazza della Signora, Florence, Where Sayonarola was Burned 444 The Tribune, Uffizi Gallery, Florence 445 Raphael Painting the Madonna OF the Chair 446 The Madonna of the Chair, by Raphael, Pitti Palace, Flor- ence 447 I'Aiac Till-: Last Supper, by I'ra Angel- ico, San ^L\rco, Florence. .448 Sayonarola 449 Venice — The Campanllk from -niK Grand Canal 450 The Bridge of Sighs 451 The Rialto 452 The Campanile and Saint Mark's, ^'i:nice 453 Milan Cathedrai 454 The Last Supper — -Da Vinci's Great Picture as It Appears To-day 455 The Da Vinci Monument, Milan. 456 Lake Lugano 457 Over the Alps by Rah 45:i.l) IN VWV. M.W CENTURY iwo ministers, ami half as man\- ph^'siciaiis, ami there were those who wiote " llonorable" ami "General" and other titles before or after their names. There was a i^ootll\' proportion of unassuming;, slraiy;htforwar(l men without an\- particular label, some oi w hom. niakiiii;" a new reputation, as we all had to do, each for himself, in the new little floatint; world of which we had become residents, proved among the best and most popular men on board. Most of us, at the outset, were strangers to each other. "Do you know all these people?" I asked a young lady the first day, for I found her passenger list well marked with a lead pencil. "Oh, no," she answered; "mother has been marking the ministers, and sister and I have been picking out the men who are not accompanied by their wives, and wondering which of them are unmarried." It is well enough to cross the ocean to study the old world; but the passenger list, also, is a fruitful field of study, and in some cases at least, it was studied Avith ardor and success. The first cruise of this sort, organized in America, keeping its own ship, and covering the principal ports of the Mediter- ranean, was that made famous by Mark Twain in his "Inno- cents Abroad," some thirty-five years ago. That party had a ship of 2,500 tons, with 65 passengers; we had a leviathan of the ocean, with a tonnage of 20,900 and a passenger list of 830, and the appointments in the way of library, orchestra, lectures, entertainments and social life were all upon a vastly larszer scale in our case than in theirs. The accommodations now are much better, and the price is much lower than was possible a third of a century ago, and our trip was so well advertised that almost every one in America must have heard of the proposed cruise of the ship Celtic to the Orient. At least, we who were her passengers had heard so much about it, and so little in comparison of anything else, that it seemed the one great topic of conversation. Doubtless, other things were talked of in remote corners of America during the days EASTWARD HO 21 immediately preceding our departure, but it was hard for us to realize that people were interested in anything else. We might be pardoned for thinking our departure of some importance, in view of the crowd that assembled to see us off. If all New York was not gathered on the wharf, there were many people from elsewhere. If the census-taker had chosen that moment for his round, he could have swelled the popu- lation of New York considerably. There was such a crowd upon the wharf that it seemed as if we must join them and remain. It was all but impossible to reach the gang-plank. It is a large risk, but I intend to omit the re- mark that all was bustle and confusion on the pier. There w^as no confusion, and there was no room to bustle. There was meager op- portunity to wedge one's way, laden with parcels and hand-baggage, through the as- sembled crowd and up to the gang-plank, and for the time we cared for nothing else than to get there. The band was playing "I'll Leave My Happy Home for You." There was a clapping of hands, and someone made a brief response. Then the band played "He's a Jolly Good Fellow." We did not know or care for whom the band was playing, but only cherished a vague feeling of wonder that any one man could be great enough to attract attention in that crowd. It was two o'clock when we arrived at tiu' ])icr. By the time I reached niy stateroom it was a (|uai h r of three. I had barely time to deposit my parcels, be sure that my belongings were on board, and get back on dc ck for a brief look around, before the vessel sailed. The wharf was a black sea of human life, flecked with the THE LIBRARY THE OLD WORLD IN ['HE NEW CENTURY foam of \va\ini;- hamlkcrchicfs. I looked it over, trying in all the thousands of assembled faces to find one that I knew. At last I tliscovered a group of friends who had procured positions on the pilot-house of a tug, and had been shouting for some minutes trying to attract my attention. It was a joyous discovery, and I waved them a vigorous return. Nothing woukl make a man feel more lonely at such a time than to know that every one else had some one there to see him off, and he alone was forgotten. But, besides the friends on the dock, we found below flowers, maga- zines, and quantities of letters from distant friends, all full of kindly greeting and farewell. Exactly at three o'clock the plank was withdrawn, and at once the great ship began to move — an inch, another, another, almost imper- ceptibly she edged away. A line was cast off here, another there; we gained another inch, a foot, a yard; and now the dock began to slip back from us. A hundred steam whistles shouted their hoarse adieu. A hundred flags waved out their patriotic benediction. A thousand voices shouted out to us, one last composite shout, in which we distinguished no single word, but knew that it was all there, counsel, admonition, affectionate farewell, and hope of safe return, prescriptions for seasickness, and warnings not to forget to write — all these were gathered up into that long, final shout from the shore. We had not lacked an appreciative farewell. Even the Goddess of Liberty down the bay seemed with her uplifted hand to wave us a kindly adieu. Few stayed on deck to watch the shores recede, for it was bitter cold, and the zero air had in it the bite of the keen THE PROMENADE DECK EASTWARD HO! 23 wind and the creepiness of the salt air. We went below and hoped to get warm. It was a cold night on board. All doors had been open, '• !• AKKWKLL, AMERICA ! " Photograph by Mrs. F. B. Newell, Oak Park, ni. and the freezing air was in every corner of the ship except the library, which was packed witli people preparing home mes- sages. I never saw such industrious writing. Ten thousand picture postal-cards were used. Reams of paper melted away on tile desks. The word that we were anchored for the nierht -4 'I'll! "in WOULD IN lUK NKW CENTURY just iiisidi- oi Saiuly I look y;a\'c the passengers a new fien/y io write to all their frieiuls. and the mail bag filled and over- flowed. The pilot went haek e.iily in the niorninijj, and few were out to see hini o\L The bugle blew the breakfast eall, and the dining-rooms tilled. The shores were growing dim when we came on deck, and wc did not long remain. "Farewell, America!" we saitl in our hearts; "we shall sail for many a day before we see a land so fair!" Two instincts, strong in human life, have made civiliza- tion, and constitute its centripetal and centrifugal forces in the conquest of nature. One is the nomadic and the other is the homing instinct. One pushes the race forward across each new horizon, and has nearly determinetl the final fron- tiers of civilization. The other impels men to cling to the soil which they have conquered, to return to the sites and shrines of former experiences, to build homes, establish insti- tutions, and maintain industries. The American people have been a race of pioneers, ever treading in the path of the sun towards the west; but they have combined most notably with this the home-loving instinct, and have developed also a home-returning passion which makes them a nation of tourists. So, annually some thousands of Americans take an oath to be loyal to America as a prerequisite to a tour abroad. It is a fine preparation for a tour — this application for a passport. The pledge to sup- port the government of the home land is a proper reminder that we are not to become expatriated; and the official certifi- cate of the Secretary of State that the bearer is a citizen and entitled to the respect and protection of foreign nations, reminds us anew that American citizenship counts for some- thing in the old world. It is easy to get a passport. You write to the Secretary of State for a blank application, on which you record your age, place of birtli, occupation, and a description of your personal appearance, such as a modest man blushes to de- clare about himself, and swear to the whole before a notary EASTWARD HO! public, and have some neighbor certify to the truth of your declaration. This you inclose with one dollar and sixty cents to the State Department, and receive in return a parchment signed by the Secretar}-, and decorated with the red seal of the government. Besides this, it is necessary to have the vise, which costs one dollar, of the Turkish consul-general in New York. It is the first of several little contributions which the tourist makes to the Turkish government. No one should travel without such a passport and a sure preventive of sea- sickness, and he will be very fortunate if the latter proves as reliable as the former. Pass- ports are not necessary in the more frequented countries of Europe ; but even there they are con- x'enient, and in Turkc}- they are a necessity. They are treated every- where with respect. Let not the man who sees an ofihcial reading his passport with manifest reverence sup])ose that he is overawed by the per- sonal description of the owner, which is duly recorded on the face of the document. The thing that evokes his respect is the big red seal of the United States of America. No ship has permanent accommodations for 830 first-class passengers. There were many conflicting reports about our being overcrowded, and of our carr\-iiig less than half the ship's capacity. We filled the first-class and second-class quarters, and more than half of us were housed in the ])art of the ship w here ordinarilx' the third-class passengers arc carried. 'I he rooms of these, ho\\c\'er, were nc-\\ and S[)otlessI\- cK'an, and the furnishings were strictl\- first-class. We were wi'll above the water-line, and had atcomiDod.itions that weie comfortable, but not luxurious. We used both tin- first and second class dining-rooms, biil tlic seiv'ice was i(l(ntii.Ml. and \vhi:re thev guessed at the sfeeo 26 llll'. ()\.\) WOULD IN I'llK NEW CKNITKY the (.lock aiul sliore and library jm i\'ilc;^cs were cdniinon to all. Me who pail! less money had a less expensive room, as in any liotel. hut h.ul the s.ime food and social priviley;es; nor was aiu- line iliMwii amoni; us. W'e were all first-class passeni^ers, and a thoroui;hl\- tlemocratic company, 'i'his is likely to be the arranj]^ement in any similar cruise, and the intending tourist will do well to untlerstand precisely what to expect. My own room was one of those temporarily fitted up on the main deck, and was entirely satisfactory. It was not large, and was not palatial, but the ventilation was good, and the people near me were of the very best on the ship, and no man's standing depended in the slightest degree upon the amount which he hatl paid for his room. The eight days of our outward passage went all too fast. There was the settling, and getting accustomed to our sur- 1-oundings; there were diaries to begin (and most of them ended before we sighted land), and home letters to write; there was preparatory reading to be done; and there were acquaintances to make; for every one had letters of introduc- tion to some one on board. Besides this, there were Sunday services that overflowed the forward cabin, and lectures that told us of the lands we were first to visit, and what to see there in the brief time assigned us. There was a Valentine Day's party that evoked much wit and skill, and there were other entertainments, both grave and gay. "VVe had a male quartette and a choir, and the ship had pianos and an orchestra. When there was nothing else to do, we went to the office of Mr. Clark, the conductor, to ask him to make some change in our room or route. We were sure to meet most of the people on the ship standing about his door. The rest were in the baggage-hold, getting out the things which they had intended to send to their staterooms, and packing away winter clothing which they expected would become superflu- ous after we struck the Gulf Stream. And at home they were trying to thaw the water-pipes! It is well for the tourist not to pack the warm clothing too deej) in the trunk; the Medi- terranean does not lie on the ecpiator. EASTWARD HO! 27 There were three meals a day to be eaten, and it was counted good form to dress for dinner, and there was always something afterward in one cabin or the other. Sometimes there was a dance on deck for those who liked it, while those who did not care for this form of entertainment had special studies in camera clubs, and study clubs of various sorts. Our ship was a paradise of clubs. There were games of quoits and shufifleboard on deck, and they were popular on the return trip, but going out we had THK MAIN SALOON too much to do to use them. Our spare time was put in with heart-to-heart talks with Baedeker, the patron saint of all tourists. It is something even to accustom one's self to the bells, and the constantly changing time. To visit the clock each evening and find how main- minutes it is to be set forward at midnight, and to note the log each day at noon, and copy the latitude and longitude, the miles sailed, and tin; captain's record of the weather — all this helps to fill out the day. The salt bath before breakfast, followed b\- a brisk walk on deck, and another long walk at night, to rinse out one's lungs before going to bed, help to make the hours pass swiftly. The days -S riiK oi.i) WOULD IN riiK m:\v century arc short cnmi^h, and the niL;hts lose nearly an hour each as we sail toward tlu' sunrise. 1 have one word of w isdoni to those anticipating such a voyage: be chary of promises to write to many ]')eo])le on your cruise. There is little time for writing, and there is much else to do. (3ur eight days of cruising went by like a "LOOKING FOR LAND Photograph by Miss Anna M. Matthews, Oak Park, III. dream, and from that time there was before us one continuous series of deliglitful and strenuous hustlings. Those who supposed that they would have ample time to sit on deck and read novels and write home to friends were immensely mistaken. There was plenty to do, and, fortu- nately, most of us were able to do it. While a number of tourists at one time or another had a little discomfort, very few were sick for any length of time, and many made the entire cruise without being absent from a meal. EASTWARD HO Generally speaking, wc had good weather, and our ship was so well provided with bilge-keels that we rolled but little. Still, we wondered what the captain meant by recording "Moderate to light wind," when we thought it half a hurri- cane; and our respect for his judgment increased the third day out. when he recorded," Strong swly. & wly. gale & modt. sea." The moderate sea soon increased, according to the captain's own record, to "heavy swell," and then it was that some people had experiences. I h a \- e a photograph, taken on that morning, of an esteemed member of the cruise, who will perhaps be surprised to recognize himself here. It may be that he has told his friends at home that he was the only man on board that was not disturbed at any time; if so, and if they know him to be truthful, I shall not contradict him ; but I give the portrait here- with. It is free from that self-conscious look which almost invariabl\- character- izes a photogra]))!. If the subject displays any artistic fault, it is that he appears preoccupied. lie has the deck to himself, and the deck is wet and lonely. Me is thinking of home. He is trying to discover land. Land is just three miles away, and while he iTia\- not see it, he is looking in the ritjht direction. "Don't crowd the gangway I" I'his became our most faniih'ar admonition. '{'here was room for us on board, antl r(j(nn on shore, but we grew ver\' \\e;ir\- of each other when- ever wc reached port. From two to four long, double llights of stairs were rigged to the side, and we were permitted to "IJONT CKOWIJ TllK gangway!" Photograph by Miss Grace A. Ross, Oak Park, 111. 30 THE Oil) WOK in IN 11 IK NEW CENTURY pass down in sini^lc hK- into small boats or steam tenders, and so con\e\'C(.l ashore. It was a \ery loni; wa}' down, and not all could go on the first boat. Most of our i)asseiigers were courteous, and the occasions for conqjlaint were few. But as tlie cr\- of '"Low bridt^e!" is said to discover by the answer- ing duck ot the head the man u ho once worked on a canal- boat, so there is one rallying cry which 830 American citizens would instantly recognize. This sliould be the coat of arms of those who, having received distinguished honors abroad, take armorial bearings from this cruise. On a field azure, a long ladder sable, upon it a tourist verd, climbing down to a small boat rampant; motto, ''Don't crowd the gang zv ay.'' PROPOSED COAT OF ARMS Drawn by Mr. Theodore Falk, Chicago, 111. CHAPTER II MADEIRA, THE LAND OF THE WINE I hope that no reader of this chapter is as ignorant as I find myself to have been about Madeira. That it is one of several islands in a group to which it gives the name; that its capital is Funchal; that it belongs to Portugal; that it is a steep and almost inaccessible place; that its climate varies little, summer or winter; and that it produces a wine that has been famous for decades — all this I had heard. I also had read about its latitude and longitude, its area and population, in the guide-book, where the reader may find them if he chooses, and perhaps remember them longer than I diti. But Madeira had not taken shape in ni\- imagination until my eyes saw it. Behold an island, along whose coast a vessel sails for two hours, rising sheer from the water, \\ith cliffs of surpassing grandeur standing three to five thousand feet in height. Nowhere on earth except in Norway are such sea-cliffs visible. From these perpendicular mountains the streams dash down hundreds of feet and break into veils of spray, while others flow with ever-increasing rapidity down rocky gorges, broken here and there into cascades that gleam and shimmer in the sun. All this is in plain sight as the ship approaches land, and for two hours the landscape, from the first inviting, exhibits constantly more definite detail and pleasing variety. Vineyards and fertile terraces gird the less precipitous hills, and peasants' homes appear on the slopes. Where the moun- tain caflons M-iden a little at the shore there cluster little villages, the houses made of concrete, and roofed with tile or thatch, often so covered with moss or lichen as to be a bril- liant mottled orange in cohjr. In one place where two cliffs grudgingly give away in steep hills with mountain torrents between, but where no single stream of size offers its mouth 3' 32 Till'. OLD \\i)ui.n IN iiii: m:\v cF.Nirm' for a harbor, staiuls llic capital. I'^mchal, a beautiful aiul most intcrcstinL^ city. I'hc iiati\cs oi l''uncli.il appear to be amphibious. While the cit\- has no liaibor it abt)untls in boats. Tliese are well- built and able crafts, i^enerally a vivitl i;reen in color, with a stripe of purple or \-ellow, and with upstanding;' prow which serves the men on board to lu)kl to while leaning over, or the HOUSES OF CONCRETE, ROOFED WITH THATCH man on shore to catch as the boat comes in. The oars have fiddle-shaped boards on the sides, that play on thole-pins unlike anything else we saw. Long before we anchored we were surrounded by these craft, and when we stopped they swarmed about us. Some of the boats were loaded high with wicker chairs and other light woodwork, which the venders thrust up on poles, shouting the prices. Other boats brought fruit and vegetables. Fresh fish were there, also, and these our steward j)urchased by the boat-load. But many of the inhabi- tants earned their money by the easier method of diving for MADEIRA, THE LAND OF THE WINE 33 coin. Any coin except copper, which they said they could not see in the water, would be brought up by these human fish. It mattered not how many feet in depth the coin had the start, the divers never failed to bring it up. The coin came up in the diver's toes, but this was a trick of the trade; the diver caught it in his fingers, deep down, and conveyed it to his toes in the act of turning to rise. Some men brought small boys on their shoulders, and cast them off to make them dive ; the boy was often small and afraid, and the man generally followed him and got the coin; the lad simply dived and came back. We soon found that the whole island is ready to take a dip for American coin. We had been wondering into what money we ought to change our ready cash in order to make purchases in Madeira. It was not neces- sar\- to change at all. Money values are computed in reis, of which it takes i,ioo to make a dollar. A bill presented in reis astounds an American; but the native of Madeira will quickly reduce it to dollars, and cut the price in two. The \'alue of a dollar is as well known in I"'unchal as in New York. The first thing that impresses a visitor after he gets ashore is the pavement. If lie has tender feet he feels it before he sees it. It is composed of small, thin stones set upright, and makes a good roadway. r)ver it slide the coaches of I'un- chal, the carros, sleds drawn b\- bullocks. TIIK DIV1-: FOR COIN Photograph by Mrs. F. B. Newell 34 'rHK Di.n \\i>ui.i) i\ mi-; m:\\ cENirRV Tlu- carro has a c.uuipy, and is iipliolstcrcd and curtained with i.hintz ov noworcd cotton. It looks not unlike an old- tashionctl i'our-poster hctl with a t[ueer cradle attachment, and produces in marked dcL^ree the combined .sensation of novelty, comfort and jollitw When (~)ne has chartered a vehicle of this (.lescripti(Mi he experiences a sudden inclination to mirth, it is hard for him to take himself seriously, and each friend whom he meets similarly enthronetl laughs at him in answer to his laugh. It enables him to see himself as others see him. It is as if he turned a corner ami met himself coming back. He laughs first to see how funny his friend looks, and then laughs again to think how funny he himself must look. Each echoes the other's laugh. Yet one does not feel ridiculous, but has an undefined sensation of dignity withal. I never felt so much like an aristocrat as when throned in a carro. A ride so exhilarating would have pleased us at any time, but coming as our first experience after the ship, we hailed it with a delight that passed enthusiasm. For weeks we talked of it, and it became a sort of standard of comparison for all the various means of transportation which we afterward enjoyed or suffered. "Waw!" is the cry of the driver of the carro, and it seems strangely appropriate. Our party called the carro a "bully cart," and so it is. There are only a very few wheeled vehicles — carriages that run between the wharf and the new hotel — and these are of recent importation. They are not popular, and do not deserve to be. He who would move about in Funchal and not make his feet sore on the sharp stones hires a bully cart. One man goes ahead and guides the oxen. Another runs behind with a goad and a grease bag, and when the sledding is hard he drops the grease bag under the runner. There is a bell on the yoke, and it tinkles merrily. Both men shout at the oxen, at each other, and at the drivers of other carros with which they seem likely to collide. The girls lean out of the windows and look. The beggars run behind and shout, and the passenger makes a mental note of his sensations. It is not exactly Chicago. But when I stand shivering on MADEIRA, THE LAND OF THE WINE 35 the platform of the elevated road, or hold patiently to the hand-strap of a cable car, I shall heave a sigh and remember my ride in the bullock carro of Funchal. Bishop Hartzell, of the American Methodist Church, was in Funchal when we arrived, and I procured his photograph in a carro. If one would go up the mountain he has the choice of a THK TROLLEY CAR OF MADEIRA hammock borne by two men and slung to a pole, or the elevated railway, the only railroad on the island. The road ascends past terraced and irrigated gardens, between charming thatched cottages, each with a blank wall below and an arbor above with luxurious vines loaded with red-purple flowers. Camellias abound, growing on trees of considerable si/.e, and having rich, large blossoms, niillioiis in imnihcr. Along the way the people look out from their tloral bowers, and little girls run along and pelt the tourist with blossoms. A tourist with good ner\-e, having ridden np liill on tlu' railwa)-, may slide 36 THE OLD WOlxl.l) IN lllK NKW CENTURY down in a sicil which is miidnl h\- two natix'cs. No sliooting of the chutes is so excitiiii;. These are not the onl)- nioans of transportation enjoyed ill Madeira. l^abies siMuetinies ride strapped to a donkey, antl look \-ery liai)]))-. I caught a snap-sliot of one of them, and present it as a typical k^nichal l)ab}--cab. After eight days on si^ipboard cva^y one wanted to spend a night on shore. The best liotels of J^^inchal cliarsje eijjht to twelve shillings a day — but the [)rice instantl)- advanced to "five dollars and up." The emphasis was on the "up." I was one of the fortunate ones who secured a room ashore. I had an engagement for breakfast, and the ship was to leave before luncheon, but the manageress said, in a sweet English voice, "Any part of a da}- is the same as a day, sir. Your other meals will be ready if you care to stay for them." I had supposed that on the European plan a man paid for what he got, but I learned that this principle holds with variations. Never in America was I charged in advance for meals after the boat was to leave I Hut I cheerfully paid the bill. It happened that I had to come back unexpectedly and spend the night on the ship, so all I got for my money was my dinner. But that w^as a great table d'hote dinner. On account of other duties I came late to dinner; but I was pleasantly received at the hotel, and given a chair in a large, cool, and w'ell-filled dining-room overlooking the sea. Every- thing was delightful except that I had no food. Having waited some time, I halted a distinguished-looking person with mutton-chop whiskers and a dress suit, and asked him at what point in the proceedings I might expect some- thing to eat. He was too great a man to reply, but at the proper time he gave a signal, and the waiters removed the plates of those who had plates, and brought me a thin slice of ham, whose lean portion was the size of a silver dollar, and a strip of cold breast of chicken an inch wide and three inches long. When that had digested, the plates were changed, and I received a teaspoonful of a pudding which I did not like. MADEIRA, THE LAND OF THE WINE 37 Then I had a taste of wine jelly, and after that a finger-bowl. This was all that I got for my five dollars. I give this truthful bit of history as a warning to any man who attempts to catch onto a European table d'hote dinner between stations. He is ticketed from where he gets on to the terminus, regardless. He need not expect that he shall do anything else than ride on the rear platform to where the rest gfet ofT. All tickets are throutjh tickets, and no rebate is A FUNCHAL BABY-CAB allowed for the soup, fish, roast, entree, or game portion if not used. The most popular place in ^^Inchal is the Casino, a beauti- ful garden overlooking the sea. At night it is lighted with perhaps tens of thousands of tiny lights. Each is a little glass cup with olive oil in the bottom, the top serving as a globe. The wick is drawn through a tin su])p<)rt, and is a tiny affair. No one lamp gives much light, but a hundred of them hung to the branches make a tree beautiful, and a thousand of them hung in festoons make a path bewilderingly attractive, while the smell of the olive oil, though not particularl}- pleasant, gives SS 'rill-: oi.n world i\ iiii-. m:\v ci:nti'kv to all a kiiul of odor as if it wcic a scene from the Arabian Niy;"hts. The q;reat ilra^dii-tree, which looks as if made of sausas^e links, had lamps from ex-ery bouj^h to the ground. The walks, like all pavements in ]<\inchal, are made of small stones set edgewise, but these are laid in patterns with artistic skill, and in the midst is a mosaic map of Africa. But few people are in the garden, even when so beautifully lighteil. Within the house the music is heartl and the dance is gay, and up-stairs the roulette tables are busy, with the men and women in every seat, for the Casino is a little Monte Carlo. The man at the wdieel turns it calmly, and the man opposite throws the ball, and both gather in the money with little rubber-faced rakes. The rake does not grate on the leather of the table-top. It is very smooth. It is not often that Funchal greets a ship-load of Ameri- cans. It knows very little about America, having only a few hundred English, and hardly any American people, and no new^spaper printed in English. I tried to learn how much the people really knew about America, and how they felt toward us. They are disposed to think kindly of us, so I was told, but have little real knowledge. Their papers select, however, those items that deal with the grotesque in American life, and give these to their readers as characteristic of Americanos. I was told that Dowie finds frequent mention as an illustration of the eccentricities of Protestantism. The city is narrowly Roman Catholic, and the Protestant converts have a hard road to travel. However, there is a real revolution on foot between the government and the hierarchy, and the powers of the church are considerably curtailed. The monasteries have been closed, and one or more have been forfeited to the gov- ernment. It is thus that liberty is to come in Roman Catholic countries, as already it has come in Mexico, and somewhat in Portugal, through the liberal element in the Church itself. The beautiful public garden is built where once was a monastery. They tell weird and creepy tales of what they found when it was demolished — bones in unexpected places, and a subterranean tunnel down to the sea. The place is MADEIRA, THE LAND OF THE WINE 39 luxurious with flowers now, and the gardener, who speaks fair English, told me that he is a Presbyterian. The Presby- terian Mission is directly opposite the garden. It is a Scotch mission, and has a neat little church. Near at hand, and directly fronting on the garden, is the American Methodist FUNCHAL HARBOR FROM THE CASINO Photograph by Mrs. F. B. Newell Mission. Its larger work is among the peasants in the moun- tains, but there are signs of progress, though against great odds, in the city. Hishoj) Martzell, whose diocese includes much, and perhaps all, of Africa, was visiting the mission when we were there. Several American ministers from the ship participated in a service with him, and breakfasted with him next day. Rev. Mr. Nind of America, and Rev. Mr. Smart of England are the resident missionaries, and the work. 40 illK OLD WORLD IN IHE NEW CENTURY while imicli mow icccnt tli.in tliat of the rresb\-terian.s, is heiiiL; puslietl with an eiieri;}' characteristic of American Methodism. Tlie direct imports from Americi .ire few. Petroleum and its protlucts and wheat are the principal commodities. Little or uo tlonr is imported, as the p^overnment tliscriminates in fa\or of home industries. About five merchants have the riy;ht to import wheat, and the government determines how much each man ma\- brint;' in. The flour ground on the island is of fair tpiality, and makes good bread. One thing the people of I'unchal have learned about America, ami it interests them; namely, that we have lately begun annexing islands. They know this because, as subjects of Portugal, they are not wholly ignorant of affairs in Spain. As Spain has yielded uj) her islands to the Americanos, they do not see why Portugal may not do the same, and some of them are pleased with the idea. Portugal is little loved on the island, so at least I was told, and England is not popu- lar. Madeira might do far worse than to be taken in hand b}' this great dollar-producing and island-acquiring land of America, so at least some of them think. The climate permits much outdoor life, and the men seem to live on the streets. The women do not walk out much with the men, but all the houses have windows and balconies from which they may see the world as it passes between them and the opposite wall. These balconies are an unspeakable boon to the women, and there are lattices through which they may see life to advantage and without publicity. Courtships are arranged through a third party. The young man may come, after a time, and visit from the street, while his sweet- heart peeps out of the window, the length of his call being a test of his devotion; for he must take the weather as he finds it. Few people in Funchal speak English. One Chicago lady, having been answered many times in Portuguese, saw a young fellow in sailor garb, and with strong emphasis on each word, and a gesture as well with each, demanded, "Do-you-speak- MADEIRA, THE LAND OF THE WINE 41 English?" In the broadest of Yorkshire speech the Briton answered, "Rawther!" Americans arriving in Madeira are interested in finding the house where Christopher Columbus lived. The house is no longer standing, but the site is marked. It is seldom inquired for, however, and thereby hangs a tale. A party of our ladies undertook to find the home of MAIJEIKA THRliSHlNG FLOOR Columbus, and tlicir guide assured ihcni that he could take them to the jilace. He soon showed such ignorance, how- ever, that they discarded liini and took another guide, who vowed by all the saints held in re\'erence in Madeira that he knew the way. Ui) one narrow street antl down another he led them, gathering other natives as he went, shouting for information here and there in Portuguese, and handing it down to his followers in hioken I'.nglish. lie sto[)ped at several corners and changed his plan as otiiers gave him infor- mation, and carh natix'e who told jiim the \\:\v joined ihe 42 THK OLD WORLD IN LllK NEW CENTURY tliroii;^". so the crowil ;j^re\v. At last lie stopped with an impressive «;esture. ami commamliiiL;- all to wait, tlisappeared into an ancient-lookin;^' honse. lie was L;'one a lons^ time, anil the\- wonckix-d what had happened, and he^an to think ot luulinL;" their ua\- haek withont him. Hnt at last he appearetl. ilisappointed, and visibly sad. lie had sorrowful news to break, and he prepared to do it i^entiy. They had hartl work to i;et him to impart his information. Jkit at last, gathering; himself together, and striking a tragic attitude, he exclaimed : "Christopher Columbo no live here! He dead!" This is no Mark Twain story, but a sure-enough true inci- dent. The man was absolutely sincere. Not only so, but he was amazed at the effect of his news. The Americans broke out into a roar of laughter, which contrasted strangely with his grief for their sake over the death of Christopher Columbus. He stood, and the other natives stood, bev/ildered, and won- dering how the death of Christopher Columbus should so affect the people who had inquired so earnestly about him. Could they be insane? He had expected to present these .strangers to their one acquaintance on the island, and when they learned that he was dead they laughed immoderately. Unfortunately they could not make him understand the situ- ation as they saw it, and he led them back, much disap- pointed in them. Doubtless he still wonders what kind of people Americans can be. The favorite musical instrument of Madeira is the ma- chette, a small guitar with four strings tuned to fifths. It lacks the mellowness of the guitar, and the voices of the people which accompany it can hardly be said to be musical ; yet the two combine to give pleasing effects. A little group of us were making our way through the outskirts of Funchal in the evening when we heard a machette approaching, and soon discerned three young men marching abreast, filling the little narrow street from side to side, and singing as they came. We stood in an angle where the wall was low, and waited. The evening was settling into night, and all was still save for MADEIRA. THE LAND OF THE WINE 43 the voices and the instrument. Across the way a girl appeared on the balcony and leaned over. The warm, moist air, laden with perfumes from the gardens below us, clung to us with a dreamy, far-away feeling. Nearer came the young men, their feet falling hard on the sharp stone pavement, keeping time } HH^^&L ^^^R ^v '^'^M ^^Hl'j* n r' J "THROUGH THK T(»\VN RUSH FUAMING MOUNTAIN STREAMS" Photograph by Mrs. K. H. Newell to the little staccato notes of the machette. The young men marched past, the girl still hung over and listened, perhaps disappointed, perhaps curious, perhaps both. We stood ami listened while the footsteps and llic music died away, and then went on, feeling somehow as if wc had torn a leaf out of a story-book. Madeira abounds in birds. There only and in the Canary Islands are found tlic green canaries, whose song wakes the dawn with a llood of music. Those of our company who 44 Tin: (^1.1) woKi.n in thi-: ni:\v cknti'rv spent tlic uiL^'iit ashore woke to a chorus of ten thousand warblers, sinj^ing a soni;' tliat maile the whole ishnul \'ocal. l^^mchal is a clean cit\' e.\ternall\', well washetl 1)\' the rains and streams, and this feature, together with tiie cciuabie climate, makes it a very paradise of good health. Through the town rush foaming mountain streams, which keep the city clean. CHRISTOPHER COLUMBO NO LIVE HERE!" Down in the ravines, which the high bridges span, the women wash their clothes, paddling them on the rocks beside the stream. The island is as free from snakes as Ireland, and the only mosquito is a little boat of that name which came out to meet us flying the American flag. Madeira lies between latitude 32° i"]' and 32° 52' north, and longitude 16° 36' and 17° 16' west. The ordinary range of the thermometer is from 63 to 75, and the difference in temperature between day and night is very small. The island MADEIRA, THE LAND OF THE WINE 45 is said to have been discovered by Robert Macliin and Anna d'Arfet, who were eloping from Portugal and endeavoring to reach France, but were blown away to this better spot, where the oldest church of the island now marks their alleged grave. The discovery which gave Madeira to the world was in 141 / by the Portuguese; but they were not elopers, so no one built a church ov^cr their graves. Funchal is 2,741 miles from New York, 540 from Ponta Delgada in the Azores, and 580 from Gibraltar. Our time from Sandy Hook to Funchal was seven days, two hours and fifteen minutes. To this we added the night at anchor in Xew York harbor; so it was eight days from the time we began to thaw the water-pipes on the ship till we rested off that most beautiful island. The natives were disappointed in our ship. They heard that she was the largest in the world, and when they found her smaller than the island, they felt that they had been imposed upon. We were sorry not to fulfil their hopes of us, for their island more than doubly met our fondest expecta- tions. I have no desire to live in any land but America; but if America becomes uninhabitable, and I have choice of a home, I shall steer straight for Madeira, and shall expect to find most of my friends of the Celtic already in residence there. Other places in our pilgrimage live pleasant!)- in our memory, but Madeira is a dream of beauty. ciiAPri<:R 111 GIBRALTAR, THE BRITISH I.ION IN STONE In the early geologic ages there were no Straits of Gibral- tar. The range of mountains, of which Gibraltar and the corresponding headlands on the coast of Africa are the survi- vors, quite shut in the Mediterranean, which then, or at some other period, emptied, if it emptied at all, into the Red Sea, through the Gulf of Suez. A glance at the map shows Asia and Africa joined by an isthmus of sand. This isthmus was nearly severed by the Bitter Lakes, and the Suez Canal has completed the separa- tion; so that these two continents are now divided nearly as they were in some prehistoric period. But Europe and Africa ha\e between them a narrow strait cut through a mountain range. Surely Europe and Africa once were united, while Africa and Asia looked at each other across the Suez Strait. There came a time when the pent-up waters of this island sea pushed for an outlet westward through the coast range, the mighty ocean to the westward beating incessantly against its front the while, and every spring that trickled down through the calcareous rock hollowed out a bed or cavern which slowly but surely made inroads on the hill. Earthquakes may have had their share in the ultimate sundering of the coast line, and so at length the strait of Gibraltar was formed, thirty-six miles long and nine miles wide at its narrowest point. Like the sea itself, the flood of humanity about it gathered its waters and overflowed. Upon its shores a hundred civili- zations clustered and pressed one upon another. Shut in temporarily by deserts, forests and mountain ranges, they over- flowed at length, tricklingacrossdeserts, burstingthrough moun- tain passes, and losing themselves in dense forests, on whose further side they later emerged stern, fierce and unconquerable. 46 GIBRALTAR, THE BRITISH LlOX IN STONE 47 It is inaccurate to say that the Mediterranean now empties into the Atlantic. The current sets inward from the ocean. The Mediterranean has hardly any tide, and the evaporation from its vast surface, and that of its tributary seas, is thought to account for the ceaseless inflow of water from the ocean. There may also be subterranean currents that flow into the Atlantic from the Mediterranean. Had the Mediterranean retained its outlet through the Gulf of Suez, and failed to THE BRITISH LION IN STONE secure one through the Straits of Gibraltar, the history of the world would have been greatly changed. The Phrenicians, who were the first navigators of this region, named the rock of Gibraltar "Alube," and the Greeks modified this name to "Calpe." Calpe and Ceuta, the oppo- site points on the African coast, formed the pillars of Hercules. This gigantic gateway, so the ancients thought, led only to darkness and chaos; and above it was inscribed the imaginary legend, '' Nc plus ultra.'' Kut there was some- thing beyond, and the ships which pushed through between the Pillars and mafic timid explonitions along the coast grew increasingly bold, until at length Columbus sailed out thence, ■jS llli: OIH WOKID IN 'I'llI". \K\V CKNTURY plowed his w.i\- across the uncharted ocean, ami toinul Anieiica. (M\en a port such as H.iicelona on the Mediter- rane.m. and an outlet into the ocean, and Anu-rica must be discovered in time. Hut America miLjht ha\e uaitetl long for Columbus, anil even the coast of luirope remained f(^r a C(^nsiderable periotl undeveloped, had the world waited for civilization to push its w a\- around the Cape of Good Hope. Africa might not then ha\'e remained the dark continent, but to the westward things would have moved slowly. Gibraltar itself was not highly esteemed by the early explorers for military purposes, but the Barbary pirates long held their possession at Tarifa, where for generations they maintained the castle still in existence and levied a toll on the passing vessels. A reminder of this custom we still possess in our English word "tariff." The rock passed successively from the Romans to the Goths, and then to the Spaniards, but its first military importance was discovered when the Moors crossed the straits and established themselves in Spain. Tarik was the name of the Moorish conqueror, and his name is still borne b}' the rock : for gibel means rock, and Gibraltar means rock of Tarik. For nearly eight hundred years the Moors and Spaniards contended wM'th each other for possession of Gibraltar. In 1309 Ferdinand IV captured it after fourteen sieges. In twenty-two years the Moors had it again, l)ut in 1462 the Spaniards regained it. Still the Moors contended for it, and when Columbus wanted money for his expedition, the king's answer was that he could not spare it, because of an approach- ing war with the Moors. So Isabella came forward with her jewels, and Columbus sailed. The king invested his money in warring against his hereditary foe, and the queen invested hers in the discovery of the world beyond the sunset. Spain did not wholly under- stand the value of the fortress from which she had, with such difficulty, driven the Moors. The fortifications were improved, and a hundred cannon frowned down upon the approach of any foe, but with the hundred cannon were onl\- one hundred GIBRALTAR, THE BRITISH LION IN STONE 49 and fifty men. Spain failed, as she has since failed, to remember the importance of "the man behind the gun." In 1705 Sir George Rooke attempted an expedition against Barcelona, and having failed, captured Gibraltar, without orders, in the name of the Archduke of Austria. It is almost always safe for the commander of a fleet to do a daring thing to his own country's advantage, on his own responsi- bility; his government can disavow the act if it wants to, and MAI' OF THE CKLISE promote him when the trouble is over. England, knowing a good thing when she saw it, determined to hold the lion's share of the spoil, but forgot to reward the man who won the fortress for her. It would be unbecoming in an American to characterize this act of England, but the !".nc\-clo]);cdia Britannica has done so in a thoroughgoing \va\-. The trt.ity of Utrecht in 1713 confirmed I-'.ngland's title to Gihialtar, but Spain refuses to this day to concede I-Jigland's right to the possession. In 1779 the liritish general iiuiL;oyiic surrendered his army to the American colonists, and I'Vance and Spain seized the opporluiiil\- then afforded to make war on England. 50 THK 0\.\i WdRl.n IN 1111 \i:W CENTURY Then bc^an the sieL;c o{ Gibraltar, which lastinl till i;^^, and which is so ]iict urcs(iiu-ly Llcscribctl by l)rinkwatcr and by l^r. llcni\- M. I'icUl. l.ortl Goort^c Augustus I'-lliott was hero of this sicL;c. and tlcfcndcd the fortress ai^ainst storm, strategy and starvation w ith tleeds of valor that place him in the front rank oi military lieroes. When at last he repulsed his enemies with red-hot cannond)alls that fired their shi])s, his humanity in savin;^ the lives of his i)erishing foemen gave a new illus- tration of the poet's words, "The bravest are the tenderest; The loving are the daring." From that day to this Gibraltar has remained the undis- turbed possession of Great Britain. A lion couchant the great rock stands, holding its prey so dearly won. There is no better type of l^ritish determination and aggressiveness than this huee rock lion with formidable claws and teeth, main- tained, not on the shores of its own domain, but at the cross- roads of the great highways of trafific of three continents. I had always supposed that the lion's head was toward the strait; instead it faces Spain. Gibraltar lies in latitude 36° 6' north, being thus almost exactly on a line with the southern boundary of Missouri, the famous 36° 30' of the compromises before the Civil War, Its longitude is 5° 21' west. It is 580 miles from Funchal and 410 from Algiers. The bay and town of Gibraltar are on the west, where the rock slopes down toward the ocean. The rock lies almost exactly north and south, is three miles long and seven miles in circumference. The southern extremity is known as Europa Point. On the north it is joined to Spain by a low sandy isthmus, across which, from east to west, are two rows of sentry boxes, with a barren strip of neutral ground, perhaps a quarter of a mile wide, between. Gibraltar is not as barren as it looks. There are five hun- dred species of flora on this rock, including many varieties of fern; the native fauna aj)pear to consist chiefly of a few Barbary apes. These are rigidly protected, and one might, with as little i)eril, insult a British soldier under the Union GIBRALTAR, THE BRITISH LIOX IX STONE 51 Jack as abuse a Gibraltar ape. We were unable to see one when there. They are the only native apes in Europe. The rock of which Gibraltar is composed is limestone, and is honeycombed with caves. Some of these are noted, but more noted are the galleries, which may be visited by permis- sion of the military secretary. Here the cannon rise tier on tier to the summit which at the highest point is 1,396 feet above the water. There are patches of arable ground, and these since the days of Elliott have been industriously tilled. Although on]\- 530 miles from Funchal, Madeira, where the temperature varies only a few degrees in the whole year, Gibraltar is very hot in summer, though delightful at the season of our visit. Although so characteristically British, Gibraltar is not wholly without American affiliations. An American life- insurance company has made a trade-mark of its picture, and this is so widely published that a letter mailed in Europe with a picture of Gibraltar on the outside, and no other direction, has been known to arrive safe in New Jersey at the office of the company. The American consul at Gibraltar for man}- years was Hon. Horatius J. Sprague, who was appointed by President Polk in 1848, and held his position till his death a very few years ago. He has been succeeded by his son. The elder Sprague was said to have entertained more distinguished Americans than any other man on earth. Probably neither he nor his son ever entertained so many of their countrymen at one time as those on board the Celtic. The .Spragues, both father and son, won the respect of the people of Gibraltar. The son is held in esteem, and the father's memory honored. It would seem the part of wisdom for our government to secure such men for our foreign consulate, and then continue- them as in this case. Many ships of iiiaii\- kinds ha\e stirred the waters of Gibraltar Straits; the nu^st primitive crafts of the early navi- gators plied here, and here were rowed the triremes of ancient warfare; smugglers and j^iratcs, merchant ships of all nations, 5- rill-: oil) wDui.n i\ tiiI': m^v CKNTiin' aiul nion-()|-\\ .11" i)l .ill iia\'ics li.i\c (.lropj)ccl ancluir in the harbor of Ciibr.ilt.u" : i)iit the Celtic was by far the hu'i^est ship that ever ]iasseel iiiuler the i;"uns of the x'enerable fortress, .uul the company of Americans which she bore by far tlie larL;est e\'er sailing; on such a cruise as this. There was much of interest to us in tiibraltar; it \\as pleasant to learn that we and our cruise were of interest to Gibraltar herself and to the ports beyond. Whoever pjoes ashore at Gibialtar does so with a military permit, allowing; him to remain to evening; L;un fire. After that, no one may pass in or out. Tourists are shown the rock galleries made in 1789, and the guns in the casements. This is intended to satisfy the curiosity of visitors, and make them think that they have seen the real strength of the place. In fact, we did not see one modern gun, nor any fortifica- tions such as would now be relied upon. There are, lunvever, such modern earthworks, with their disappearing guns, and more are building. No camera is allowed, and no one is per- mitted to visit the fortifications of real military importance. The Gibraltar of old is not the Gibraltar that would now be relied upon in war. An English magazine has published an article on "The Uselessness of Gibraltar." It may not be useless. It is still the. key of the Mediterranean, and every ship entering or leaving it does so under the muzzle of her guns. The moral value of such a place is something. The Duke of Wellington, having met a distinguished American senator and being asked his opinion of him, is said to have replied, "Sir, no man could be as great as Daniel Webster looked." No fort could be cjuite so impregnable as Gibraltar seems. To look at it is to feel the strength of Britain's power at this long arm's length. And when I saw the now obsolete work on which so many millions have been expended, I could only hope that another century of peace may render all her present warlike preparation at Gibraltar ecpially obso- lete, and that ere long the same may be true of all warlike preparations everywhere. In viewing a foreign city, much depends on the weather. GIBRALTAR, THE BRITISH LION IX STONE 53 When two persons give diametrically opposite impressions of a foreign town it is safe to inquire about the weather when the\' made their respective visits. On a sunny day Gibraltar may relax its stern front into something of a smile; but when it rains it is gloomy enough, and the clouds seem a part of the fort and place. The location is picturesque, but the town is ugly, the buildings are a dingy brown or gray, and the GIBRALTAR FROM THE SPANISH LINES military aspect dominates everything. The population is about twenty-six thousand, exclusive of the garrison, which numbers some five thousand more. The shops are small, for the rents are very high. The market is a busy and not uninxit- ing place. The costumes of the peDjjIc \'ar\' from the com- monj^lace dress of tradesmen to the rich and llouing robes of stockingless Moors, anil the soldiers in their coats of red and khaki, with bare-kneed highlanders here and there, and anon the tyjiical Tommy Atkins with his impossible hat on llu- northeast corner of his head. It i^ the ninth woiulcr of the 54 11 II" Ol.n WOK 1.1) IN THE NEW CENTURY woikl liou l^ni;laiul can over ^ct a rc-al soldier under such a ridiculous hat. yd Tonini)' is interesting even in his least serviceable garb. Between the city of Gibraltar and the adjacent Spanish town of Linia there is a constant procession of donkeys, laden as they come in with produce, and they go out with nobody knows what — nobody except the Spanish custom house offi- cers, who search them vigorously. Pedestrians, also, undergo a thorough inspection at the lines. It was interesting to find that our company of American tourists passed through unsearched. Spain seemed disposed to treat America cour- teously. We were told that such respect was seldom shown to strangers, and we partly believed it, as we saw baskets unpacked and handkerchief bundles untied in search of smug- ffled eoods. There is a marked contrast between the two towns in cleanliness, and much besides. In Linia the tourists of our party visited a public school. There were forty or fifty boys, several of them, including the teacher, smoking cigarettes. Several of the boys had seats on the floor. Gibraltar has excellent endowed schools and few illiterates, but the popular institution of Linia is the bull-ring. While the naval importance of Gibraltar brings all sorts of products to the town, it is not a good place to buy souvenirs. Gibraltar has no character of its own, and few if any memen- toes of local value. Our party came back laden with woven grass baskets filled with Spanish oranges, and these were good enough to compensate for the meagerness of our pur- chases at the bazaars. Besides, we had abundant use for our money later on. There is use on such a tour as ours for very many kinds of people. The man who knows all the facts, and therewith perpetually bombards his helpless fellow travelers, even he has his occasional uses; but far more useful, and among those to be held in highest regard, is the ignorant, talkative woman, who is not ashamed to ask the questions which all the rest are eager to ask, but dare not lest they betray their ignorance. GIBRALTAR, THE BRITISH LIOX IX STONE 55 The man who clambers about Gibraltar not far behind such a benefactress may himself acquire great reputation for knowl- edge by passing back the information which he overhears, and perchance may later make thereof a book. On the whole, we are glad that Britain has Gibraltar. Beneath the red cross of England are cleanliness, enlighten- ment and good order; and one has only to drive to Linia to guess what would be if Spain had her old fortress again. Let England keep Gibraltar just as long as she can afford it. Plymouth Rock is good enough for us. PliASAM (>IKL> M1NMN(. CHAPTER IV ALCIKRS. THK HOME OF THE PIRATES "A soldier of the legion lay cl^'ing in Algiers." This was the onl\- line of poetry that was well known among us con- cerning the interesting port at \\hich we stopped next after Gibraltar. We quoted it often, apropos of nothing in particu- lar. And as it turned out, we came as near dying there as anywhere. One of the first announcements concerning landings warned us that wc should have a hard time and would need to exer- cise patience at Madeira, but that at Gibraltar we should have very large tenders, and that at Algiers the small steam- ers would ply often between the shore and ship. It all went by contraries. At Madeira we had a delightful landing in small boats. At Gibraltar the large tenders took so long to fill that there were delays, and the weather was unpleasant to boot. But at Algiers we had our first real experience with landing. Instead of going inside the harbor, as most of us had assumed, and as the conductor evidently expected, our ship dropped anchor far outside. We were in a happy frame of mind, for we made up time between Gibraltar and Algiers, and were to have an evening on shore in addition to our advertised time. But the tenders that were to have conveyed us ashore were quite unequal to the task of taking so large a company so long a distance, and so we went ashore on scows, towed by the tenders. The tenders themselves brought us back in smaller groups, and those who went ashore in the rain the first evening returned without difficulty, and saw a most interesting and varied city by lamplight. Next morning it rained hard, and the sea rose with the storm. Only half the people went ashore, and these drove around in the rain, and saw, most of them, quite enough to 5^^ ALGIERS, THE HOME OF THE PIRATES 57 reward them for the effort. But when we attempted to return after noon, we found the sea dashing high over the breakwater, and the Celtic pulling hard at her anchor-chains. One tender went out with passengers on board, and was unable to get theni onto the ship. Then another went out with a few passengers, and succeeded in embarking them. The sea was rolling higher all the time, but the success of the THE PUBLIC GARDEN, ALGIERS last boat encouraged another attempt, and it proved the last for that day. I was on this last little steamer that attempted to reach the Celtic. I'^ven before we were outside the breakwater we were rolling considerabh', and when we came into llu' oi)en sea wc pitched and tossed fii;^litfully. The great waves came rolling far above us, lifting the little l)o.it on their crest, anil sometimes breaking over her, and at length dropjjing her. drenched and quivering, in the trough. The saihjrs surprised me greatly. I had expected to find these descendants of pirates adepts at li.mdling any sort of sS 'nil-. o\.\) WOK in IN 11 1 1', m:\\' century w.itor-craft. Wlu-tlu-r tlu-y were frightened or siinpl)' stu])i(ll}' inctMiiiieteiU. 1 clonal know; probably they were both. When the captain shtuited an inder each man adtiresscil would spread out his hands, p. dm tl(n\n and fingers spread, in a gesture of the most hopeless incompetence, and jabber back protests and declarations that it was impossible. It would have served them right if the captain had thrcnvn one or two of them over- boartl. but he simpl\- jabbered at them, and at each individu- all\-, till at length he got the thing done, or the time had passed for doing it. Even with the most skillful management our boat wouUl have had no enviable trip, but the case was far worse w ith management such as we saw. Most of the ladies went into the little cabin, where they huddled, several of them seasick, and all of them resolute. There were seven or eight of them, and they behaved like heroines. There was no screaming or fainting, but there was a good deal of pale and quiet determination to see it through. The men behaved well, but the women certainly equaled them in coolness. The Celtic lay with her bow to the storm, serene as Gibral- tar. To us it seemed that she remained without a quiver of her keel; but we rose and fell not less than thirty feet, and it seemed much more. We made two ineffectual attempts to come alongside, but were carried past through the violence of the storm and the incompetence of the sailors. If I am ever to be attacked by pirates who attempt to board my ship, let them be those of Algiers. The third time we came up to the bow and drifted back, catching a bowline as we went along, and then one for the stern. Moored fast to the side of the Celtic we had ample opportunity to measure the height of the waves that swept along her side, for they lifted us high against the side and then dropped us far below the red load water-h'ne. Once we rose against the gangway, and one or two men got on, but in that instant a terrific sea broke against us, snapping our bowline. The wave gave us a fearful pitch, and we attempted to stem it and come alongside again, but another sea caught us and snapped the sternline, and we ALGIERS, THE HOME OF THE PIRATES 59 Avere hurled away as if from a catapult. A lady on deck got a snapshot at us just as the wave had passed, and we were spinning about. It was certainly a perilous moment. When we saw the red line on the Celtic high overhead, it seemed as if we were to be sucked under her or to be crushed against her side. We righted, and came up to the bow again, and with diffi- culty, and that time we failed to get the line that was thrown A TKKKII-IC SEA BROKE, SNAPPING OUK JJOWLINE Photograph by Miss Anna S. Matthews to US. Our little steamer faced the storm, and her propeller whirled rapidly, now in tlie water and then out, but we were drifted back along the side, and far astern. Above us, as we went past, the passengers on the ship rose tier on tier along the decks, watching us with great anxiety, and a few waved to us; but on board our boat no one spoke save the captain jabbering at his men, and lliey in tiini jal)l)cring baclc between their chattering teeth. A third time we came up, and this timt; got the line from the bow; but before we einild get tin; sternline we were hurled against the side of tlu' ship with great x'iolcnee. Whether the line broke or was cast oil 1 was not sure, but 6o THE OLD WOULD IN 1111 \KW CENTURY wo were loose attain almost before we were fast, and tlieii we he.iril the only souiul that reaelied us from the ship, tlie shrill whistle o( the IxKitsw -' rill oi n woKi.i) i\ ■111!. m:w cI'-NTHRY lloors wcio \cr\' coKl to hare feet, ami the sheets upon the bet-ls. while not exaetl\- w ringinj^ wet, were certainly not dry. Theie is i^uc comfort in damp sheets, however; it is a certifi- cate that the\- have been waslicd, and that is something. But a wet pack is hartll\- w hat one wants in seasons of ordinary health. 1 hail heard the sailors singing of "a wet sheet and a flowing sea. " We had had the flowing sea, and at night we got the wet sheet. In a land of steam heat, which is one of the crowning glories of America, it makes one shiver to remember how it felt the first time to go to bed between wet sheets, antl to step out upon a tile floor in a room that is never heated. For the comfort of his last hours, I hope that the soldier of the legion from Bingen on the Rhine, who lay dying in Algiers, died with his boots on. The next afternoon the Celtic came under the lee of the breakwater to take us and a boat-load of cabbages on board, and we were taken out in the steam tenders and embarked across the cabbage-boat. It was Washington's birthday, and we sailed away to the salute of the guns of the American gunboat Chicago, which lay in the harbor, and wound up the day with a patriotic meeting that crowded the forward cabin to suffocation. There were glad reunions, for families had been separated, husbands on shore and wives on board, and children who had not been seen for twenty-four hours, and who might be either on board or on shore. Happily, none of us were missing, and in spite of our great anxiety we had had a reasonably good time. But the passengers could not refrain from asking, Why did not the captain bring the ship in twenty-four hours sooner? To this there was only one answer, namely, that we were landsmen, and that doubtless the captain had reasons which were good ones for not doing on the first day what he did on the second. This is the kind of answer that has always been given when passengers ask questions about the management of a ship. Algiers is four hundred and ten miles from Gibraltar, and lies in latitude 36° 47' north, and longitude 3° 3' east. The city is built on a range of hills rising in amphitheatrical form ALGIERS, THE HOME OF THE IM RATES 63 around an artificial harbor. The buildings are principally white, and it is common to speak of it as "a diamond inclosed in an emerald," so beautiful does it appear in its setting of green hills and trees. Since 1830 it has belonged to the French, who occupy the best portions of the city and suburbs. It has a population of 91,184. Algiers was founded by the Arabs in 935, and was the home of the most rapacious set of pirates that ever scoured the A STREET BOLDLY CARKIEU LI' UPON ARCHES Mediterranean. The very stones of the mole and breakwater could cry out in echoes of the sobs and groans of captive Christians. The kasbah, or citatlcl, above the town, has at its gate a great chain from which, as we were told, tlu- heads of Christians were suspended in the bloody days of okl. The Algerian pirates of to-day drive cabs. No longer does their victim walk the plank into the angry ocean; he is more profitable on shore. It is not a simple matter to hire a carriage in Algiers. The drixn-r is alert for custom, but the tomist's bargain is iinpeded by the pn.-si-nce of \-ohmt(iT inlcipreters who pretend to underst.md Pjigjish bcttiT than the driver, who understands it not at all. \'oii tell these interpreters 64 rill". 01. 1) woKi.D IN 1111. \i:w (."i-'.xrLiRY thai \"ou do not waiu llu'in; you oinlci tlu-in a\\a\' in ^"ood Ens^lisli aiul llu- worst l-'rcnch x'ou can rrcill ; hut Ihcy repeat the ilii\-cr"s worils to ytni in the same lanL^uai^c in which he vitters it. and i)ietcnd li> transhite \'our words to the ch'iver, and (\o not fail to demand a fee for the trouble the)' make \-ou. It is bad enough to ha\'e to deal with the driver alone, and worse to have an alleged interpreter. The driver, once engaged, is in no hurry. lie takes you b\- w hat are ex'idently roundabout wa\-s, antl chuckles to him- self the while to think you do not know it. But this is little matter if \ou are sight-seeing, for there is something to see all along. I speak the truth and lie not when I declare that m\- driver took me four miles and back to see a mosque a half- mile away. And I enjoyed it as much as he did, for every vo(\ of the way there was something pleasant to see. It is rare for a tlriver to overheat his horses when driving by the hour in any country, and the Algerian driver is an adept at killing time. However, I comforted myself with the assur- ance that there could be no disputing about the charge, for it was agreed to in advance. To my amazement, the rascal doubled the price. "But," said I, "you said three francs an hour!" "Ah, ouil An hour! But not when I mus' draive fas'. You keep shout 'Caoshmann ! Caoshmann! Ouray! Ouray!'" It was true that I had hurried him, or tried. But I did not suppose that I had succeeded. lUit as we disputed, a crowd gathered, and fell into judicial attitudes. The driver talked to me, but with an appeal to them. I was at a disad- vantage if I expected to address the jury; not even in my own tongue could I have matched his eloquence. But the most barefaced trick was his display of his horses' wet sides in proof that I had compelled him to overdrive. To the self- appointed jury on the curbstone it wdi?, prima facie evidence, and every face showed that I had lost my case. Every mother's son of them knew that it had been raining, but the ride cost me the same as if those horses had eaten their oats in the sweat of their brow. I do not kiunv how the driver ALGIERS, THE HOME OF THE PIRATES 65 collects his overcharge in dry weather. The rain must have been a blessing to many of them, doing stage duty for honest perspiration. The French quarter of Algiers is built with great regular- ity. A long line of hotels and business blocks with colonnades and cloisters faces the water front, and rises upon a street 'THE STREETS ARE SERIES OF STONE STAIRS boldly carried up upon arches and approached by an incline parallel with the street above. It is a very handsome and impressive structure. The I'rench ([uarter grows by regular stages. Every year a section of the old part of town is torn down and a new portion is constructeil. This gives the town an appearance of solidity and uniformity. This ]iortion is clean and whf)lesome, witii its rows of buildings clad in cream- colored stucco, and through it to the suburbs lun American trolley cars. The)' run deliberately, anil the fare, whirli !■< 66 nil. OLD \\\)ULI) IN lill': M'.W ci:\ii KV low, may bo reducocl by i^oiii;^- second-class, which is practi- cally as y^ood as first. The Arab c[uaitcr is more interesting;, thouL;h less inviting. There one sees almost e\ery type of life which the Orient can display, and there he can purchase as threat a variety of the products of the East as anywhere else unless it be Cairo and Constantinople. But conditions jostle one another strangely. Next door to where they are makiny; shoes in as primitive a manner as was in vogue a thousand years ago, may be heard the whir of an American sewing-machine. Even in the Arab quarter of Algiers modern progress is forcing its way. The Mohammedan women of Algiers go heavily veiled, and wear a suit whose chief characteristic is a pair of enormous white trousers. It was our first sight of veiled women in considerable numbers, and I looked for a bright or happy or coquettish face behind the veil. More of the face is shown here than in Egypt or Palestine, so opportunity was not lack- ing, but the habitual expression of an Eastern woman's face is not one of happiness. In the Mohammedan quarter, the streets are often series of stone stairs, rising flight after flight, with little landings between. On each side, in shops or booths, mere recesses in the walls, goes on the life of the people in sight of the street. There people are buying and selling, washing and ironing, eating and sleeping, praying and gambling. They sit on rugs or mats on the floor, barefoot, their shoes standing in rows along the curb. From unexpected alleys, dark and over- arched, emerge veiled women, carrying on their arms loaves of bread baked in circles, with holes in the middle large enough to admit the arm. These loaves are often hung like wreaths around the entrances of the bake-shops. Thus, in their less strenuous way of living, they bend the very staff of life into a festoon. The governor's palace is one of the sights of Algiers. It is a pleasant but tawdry place, built around an open court, with a fine garden within. Close by is the Cathedral of St. Philippe, which was built in 1791. The attempt to adapt the ALGIERS, THE HOME OF THE PIRATES 67 architecture of the Moslem to Christian uses does not appear very successful; still, the cathedral does not lack a certain impressiveness. After this, we visited the Grand Mosque, and then the New Mosque. In the courtyard were Mohammedans perform- "FROM UNEXPECTKIJ ALLEYS EMERGE VEILED WOMEN" ing their ablutions preparatory to worship, and it was good, honest washing; we wished there were more of them at it. The mosques were commonly empty as we saw them, save for a very few worshipers. In tin- Grand Moscjue one old scribe was copying the Koran from a very old copy. I tried to buy a sheet that he had copied, hut he touched his lips to indicate that he might not answer mc. anrl tontinued at his work. The Moslems as a rule will not si'jl ,1 copy of the Koran to an "infidel,'' but ni\- frientl, l)v. .Steele, succeeded 6S THK OLD WOlvl.D IN llll'. Nl'.W CKNTURY ill buyiiii;' fur inc a hcautilul cop)' from a worshiper in the Mosque of Ahmcil at C'o bus)- with our reunions and rojoicinq;s to notice them at all, but those of us who saw and heard them, waved the American flag at them, antl in our hearts batle them a Chris- tian farewell. CHAPTER V MALTA, WHERE KNIGHTHOOD WAS IN FLOWER The traveler in America goes from place to place in con- stant expectation of superlatives in size. He is so constantly shown the largest thing of its kind in existence that he is liable to lose interest in anything of less than surpassing bulk. It must be a chief lesson of a visit to the Orient to discover historical, commercial and esthetic vakics in relatively small countries and things. Malta is so small an island that it appears only as a dot in maps of the Mediterranean, and few of the popular atlases and encyclopedias contain a separate map of it. Small as it is, it is the largest of the three islands composing the Maltese group, being seventeen and one-quarter miles long, and nine and one-quarter miles in width. It contains about ninety- five square miles, which is nearly five times the area of the next largest island, Gozo. l^etwecn these two lies Comino, where there is a fort built in \f>\^, and a little village of peas- ants' huts, where they raise excellent watermelons. The chief interest which attaches to Gozo is that it is identified with the famous isle of Calypso, where Ulysses sojournL-d on his eventful voyage, and where the siren tried to weave her web about his heart, while at home the faithful wife, Tcnel- ope, weaved all day and raveled at night tlu' L;aiinent whose completion would liavi- hound lu-r lifr to one of Iut numerous suitors. Interesting as (iozo might be because of the classical tale of llonier, it is insignificant as compared with Malta. In approaching the island from tin; west, tin- tourist sails directly past the traditional scene of St. Taul's '^llip\\ icck. It is an interesting fact that the conforni.it ii m of the laud about St. I'aul's Hay is such as {o confirm llic uncoiitradicled tradi- tion concerning the place of the shi])wreck. The bay shows 73 74 THK (Ml) WOl'll.n IN IIIK NKW CENTURY ilistiiictly (vom tlu- deck of the shii). witli a i;rcat statue of St. Paul in sii^ht on a little island. if there were no other reason for x'isitiuL; the ishuul, this, to a Hil)le stutlent, would be of itself sufficient. lleie, to an Oriental tDurist from the new worKl. Bible study begins. Ilere, for the first time, we are on soil that has specific mention in apostolic history. It was in the w inter of the year 62 that the great apostle was shipwreckeil here while on his way to Rome, a prisoner in a grain ship. It is a superb and magnificently truthful story which Luke gives us in the Acts of the way one self-possessed man in the ship, though a prisoner, preserved the courage of the crew and prisoners, ami brought all safe ashore. It is not the only time such things have happened, but faith and fortitude never had a finer demonstration of their value in a great emergency, and their ability to raise th.eir possessor in dignity aiul power to his proper level among men. Paul, on that bleak February morning, struggled through the surf to the rugged coast of Malta, a prisoner. But before they left the island the governor knev/, what those on board the ship had already learned, the courage and ability of the Christian hero. The simple account of this event is contained in the twenty- seventh chapter of Acts. The traditional date of the ship- wreck, as celebrated on the island, is February loth. On this date, in the year 16 lO, a square stone tower was erected which is still standing. Near it is a chapel with crude old paintings illustrating the shipwreck, and the fishing village is near at hand, as it was at the time of the shipwreck. The present capital of Malta is Valetta, built on a rocky promontory on the northern side of the island, looking toward the east. It has a double-mouthed harbor, amazingly forti- fied. Not until one estimates the strength of the fortifica- tions of Valetta docs he realize the military importance of Malta. A small island with a few trees and not much soil, with mild temperature in winter and excessive heat in sum- mer, containing less than a luindred square miles of barely arable soil, could not have proved its importance in history from its own protluctiveness. It is because Malta is so nearly MALTA, WHERE KNIGHTHOOD WAS IX FLOWER 75 the key of the eastern end of the Mediterranean, so easily stands guard over the coasts of southern Europe and northern Africa and the Suez Canal, that these massive fortifications rise tier upon tier upon either side of the double-mouthed harbor. The city itself is, in size and beauty, out of all pro- potion to the size of the island. It is regularly built, and Lord Beaconsfield spoke of it as equal in its architecture to any capital in Europe. It is named after its founder, John WHKKK I'AIL SUFFERED SHIPWRECK La Valctte, grand master of the Knights of St. John, at the time of the last and most desperate siege by the Turks in 1565. The prevailing style of architecture is a combiiiatinn of the Moorish and tlie Italian. The people, while of mixed blood, are principally of Arabian stock, and their language is largely Arabian. The Italian has been until recently the language in the courts. Now the English is the official language. Though .\rabian and .Moor- ish influences prevail, the people are not Mohammedans but Roman Catholics. The Protestant religion has scant recogni- tion, especially when it is considered that the island belongs to the English. 7(1 inK oi.n WOK 1.1) in riii-. new century riu' ancient capital was Citta W-ccliia, situati'd five or six miles inland. it is a nioUlciin^ old cit\', built upon a jjronii- ncnt rid^c, anil stands out distinctlx' ai^ainst the sky. A statue of luno greets the ])ilL;rini .it the main gate. Citta X'ecchia means simjily old city, so called to distinguish it from X'aletta. It was founded about /OO B. C, and is referred to by Cicero. Its former name under Moslem rule was Medina. It is said b}- some to date as far back as 1804 B. C. It is connected with X'aletta by a narrow-gauge railway, the only one on the island. The ancient cathedral, in the form of a Latin cross, nearly two hundred feet long and about half as wide, is very richly decorated, and is said to occupy the site of the h(^use of Publius, the Roman governor of the island at the time of the shipwreck of Paul. It contains several alleged relics of the apostle, together with a picture of the Madonna said to have been painted by Luke. One of the most interesting features of the vicinity is the extensive system of catacombs dating back to the time of Roman sovereignty, supposed to have served as hiding-places for the early Christians. I explored them and found them as interesting, though not as extensive, as those at Rome. Near the entrance to the Catacombs is the Grotto of St. Paul, where the apostle is supposed to have lived during his three months' sojourn on the island. Here stands a chapel dedicated to St. Paul, and containing a statue of him, said to exercise marvelous healing powers. It is inevitable that superstitions and legends such as these should have grown up around so interesting an event, and we may well take them, one and all, with a grain of salt, excepting the well-attested fact which the inquiries of scholars have tended all the more strongly to confirm — the actual shipwreck and three months' residence of the apostle on this island. As the story recorded by Luke indicates Paul's personal relations with Publius, the governor, it is very much more than likely that Paul lived that winter in Citta Vecchia. Beyond this we cannot exi)ect to find his- torical certainty, nor need we seek it in the credulous tradi- tions of the people. MALTA, WHERE KNIGHTHOOD WAS IN FLOWER 77 It is said that traditions are not the only spurious things vended on the ishmd. but tliat many of the alleged antiques are made in the potteries of England and imported for the purpose, and offered for sale with well-told stories of their genuineness; also that any article offered to a tourist is likely to bear double the price which the vender expects to receive. That which gives Malta its special place in history is the residence here of the Knights of St. John. This order had THK HAKHOK t)K VALETTA its beginnings in Jerusalem in 1033, when certain merchants of Amalfi obtained from the caliph of Ivg>'pt authority to establish a h()S])ital in JenisaK-ni foiMhe poor and sick ])ilgrims from the Latin fjuarters, making their way to visit the IIol\- Sepulcher. T'or ninety years the little organization main- tained itself and grew, ami then received pa])al sanction in the bull issued 1)\' i'asml 11, in 1113. .\lread\- the organi- zation was a power. Man\' worth)- pilgrims made offerings in money, and others, full of religious devotion, iriuaini-d in Jerusalem and gave themselves to the work- of the hospitalers; but meantime the Crusaders had so f,ir pros])ered that (God- frey I)e ]V)ullion had capturrd JerusaU'in in I 109, and many 7^^ riii'. (M 11 woKi D IN rill': new CK^"^^R^■ Christian warriors ioiiu'd the ranks of tlu' hospitalers. h^'oni tills tini--^ on a lUtniitc oii^ani/.ation w.is established, and each ai")]iro\'e(,l candidate iov membership was clotlu-d in a black robe bearing; on the breast an eight-pointed white cross, and therewith bound himself to poverty, chastit)- antl obedience. I'ive years later another vow was added, when Raymond TOMMY ATKINS AT MALTA Photograjih by Mrs. F. B. Newell Dupuy became commander, and the monks became knit^hts in their oath to be militant defenders of the cross of Christ. In time they were driven from Jerusalem to Acre, and from Acre, after desperate fighting, they retired to Cyprus, in 1 29 1. There they became a sea power in constant conflict with the Moslem corsairs. In 13 10 they captured Rhodes, from which they were driven in 1503. In 1530 Charles V of France ceded to the now homeless knights the island of MALTA, WHERE KNIGHTHOOD WAS IX FLOWER 79 Malta and the fortress of Tripoli in Africa. The gift of the latter was after the fashion of the man who owned much land^ in Kansas, and finding at length a purchaser, slipped two or three extra quarter-sections in the deed without the knowledge "IT SEEMS HK\VIT( HINfJLY UNBALANCED" of the buyer, and congratulated liimsrlf on the slirewdness of the (leal; for Charles V made a virtue of a necessity in giving to the knights what he himself could not hold. The knights would gladly have had Malta without Tiipoli, but llie\- were compelled to take both or none, and they took botii. Here in Malta the knights established themselves in 1530. Tri])oli ^o rill- (Mit woki.D IX rill". m;w century prox'ccl untcnahlc. .uul w.is surrL-iulorcd to the Turl-;s in 1551. but Malta itsclt" was hcUl witli the ni^st briUiaiU and amazing coiirai^c. h'roni 1537 t^ his death, in 1 5()S, John La Valette was gr.md master, and to liis sagacit)- and energy the con- struction of the fortifications on tlie promontory where now the city stands was due. h^'om Ma}- iS to September 8, 1565, the Turkish tleet, under the noted corsair, Dragut, hiid siege to the harbor anil its forts. Valette, then more than seventy years of age, defended the island with the most bril- liant courage, and his little handfvd of knights drove back the savage Turks with losses aggregating twenty-five thousand. In 179S Malta was surrendered to Napoleon, and on the fall of that ill-fated general, passed into the hands of England, where it remains to this day. One may see many brilliant costumes in Malta on soldier and peasant, but the one characteristic article of feminine apparel is the faldetta. I think tliat I can describe it so that the reader will know what it looks like. It is a bonnet, made like a cape, and would be a square or oblong piece of black silk a yard or so in width, but that one side is gathered into a little half-moon and wired, and the wire passed in a long curve down the selvage of the right side beyond. This little semicircle is not worn on top of the head, as a mere man might suppose would be the case, but over the left ear, and the long curve bends over the face like a Shaker bonnet, but more loosely. On the right the cape falls to the elbow, and still lower on the left, and the whole thing seems dreadfully and bewitchingly unbalanced. The attention required to keep it in place justifies no end of coquettish preening in public. I am sure that among the various articles of feminine adorn- ment none more "fetching" than the faldetta was ever invented by Cupid. We came to Malta full of hope and expectancy, and pre- pared for a joyous experience to place against the background of our anxiety at Algiers. We were late in ani\ing, and the single day was all too short for what we wanted to accomplish, but it was after noon before we got off. Other people rcmem- MALTA, WHERE KNIGHTHOOD WAS IX FLOWER 81 ber Malta as the meeting-place of Saracen and Christian in deadly battle, but we remember it as the place of the indig- nation meeting against the captain. The day was fine, but a heavy swell was running, and breaking hard against the shore. We hardly realized the VALETTA AS SEEN 1-K().\1 OIK sllir swell, however, till we saw how the ])ilot-boat was tossed that came out to bring us in. 'I'he liaiI)Mi- master was aboard. ,iiid had reserved for himself the task of bringing the Celtic inside, lie was met on the gangway by one of the officers, who told him that the captain tlid not intend to cnicr the harbor. The harbor master then refused to come on board or lo clear the ship for departure. After long argument he agreed to clcai- 82 -riir (MP woKi.i) IN iiU', m:\v century the ship, but rcfusi\l to conu- on board, and rrtiirncd on shore, saN'iui; unkind tliiiii;s about the captain, as \\c were later informed. Two small ste.imers came out to take oil the passen_<;"ers. but fnulinL; the swell danj^erous, refused to come near the ship unless she w ould come inside. Hut the cajitain, ah'eadv too far out to anchor, put out a considerable distance farther. After Ioul;' delay we were taken in small boats to the steam-tenders, and those who tlarcd make the journey were conve}'ed on shore. The boats were tossed by the swell, and we landed amid considerable excitement. On shore we learned that the admiralt\- had moved two war-ships to make room for the Celtic, and that amouL^ the thirteen <;reat war vessels then lyin^- at anchor in the harbor, at least one drew more water than the Celtic. The swell was even higher when we returned. The process of embarking proved ver\- slow and hazardous; the bcxitrnen played upon the fears of the pas.sengers and extorted fees even to the neg- lect (^f their duty; and one boat was overturned, and six passengers narrowly escaped drowning. When the passengers got on board a large proportion of them wxre angry. They hotly resented the implication that they were incapable of knowing whether they had ground of comjilaint, and passed about a letter from the American consul quoting 13ritish naval officers to the effect that the captain had been needlessly prudent for his ship in refusing to enter the harbor. Some passengers uttered harsh words against the captain, and a few stoutly defended him, saying that he knew his own business better than the passengers did. But the tourists in general felt that the captain had saved his ship from a theoretical danger at the cost of actual peril to his passengers, and while disposed to commend his prudence, felt that he luul carried it too far, both at Algiers and Malta. However, the meeting adjourned subject to call, and fortunately no further occasion was found for the meeting to act. But the memory of it, wdiich has long since lost its bitterness in the minds of most of the tourists, helps to give variety to the impressions of the voyage. MALTA, WHERE KNIGHTHOOD WAS IX FLOW^ER «3 Not every one got ashore at Malta, but those who did so enjoyed it as few other i)laces. The cathedral, the historic Churcli of St. John, and the tombs of the grand masters, are all eloquent of a past replete with brave deeds; and the THE CHANEL OF HONES narrow streets and seductive shops divide the tourist's inter- est. There is also a Capuchin church, quite as interesting as that in Rome, where the bones of the dead monks arc arranged with gruesome art. }]c who goes to Malta should buy some lace; he will find no trouble in ])resenting it to his lady friends. It is of silk, hand woven, justly famous, and always desirable. Very pretty silver filigree work, too, is obtain- Si rilK OLD WOKl.I) IN llll". Ni:W CKN'ri'RY able, .uul the prices jiaid. beini:^ about half of those asked, are fairl\- reasonable. There are other st)u\enirs ol interest. Let me sa\- here, contrary to the ad\ice of more experienced tourists who counsel ai;ainst buyiuL; many souvenirs, if I were ^oint;- ai^^ain I shoukl buy more rather than less, and would tr\- to buy articles characteristic of the places visited, and of permanent worth. Those who were able to drive across to St. Paul's Bay found the dri\e delig-htful, and the view oT the bay inspiring; while those who took the narrow-gauge road to Citta Vecchia, riding out under the embankments into the o])en fields, and so to the Catacombs and ancient memorials, cherish a most delightful memory of an afternoon packed full of interest, the onlv defect of which was that it did not last longer. CHAPTER VI ATHENS, AND OUR HAPPY VISIT TO GREECE We approached Athens reflecting sadly that we were to behold, "Greece, but living Greece no more," We left it with the conviction that Greece is very much alive. From the time when the fleet of little boats sailed out on the Bay of Phaleron to convey us ashore at Piraeus till we embarked / from a pier black with an assembled multitude that gathered to see us off, we reveled not only in the memories but in the present life of Greece. We visited the Museum and the ruins, but we found objects of equal interest in fine business blocks, in new school buildings, worthy in their archi- tecture even of Athens, in the new stadium, still in process of erection, though once already it has witnessed the renewed Olympian games, and in the people, who appeared to us alert and full of hope. On the Pnyx, the forum of Demosthenes, I met a school in charge of its master. The boys were study- ing Grecian history on the s[)ot. I examined their books, and found the familiar works of Xenophon and Homer, showing very much such use and neglect, and such artistic ornamenta- tion on the fly-leaves, as ma}- he found in America. The\' also had with them their work in geography, and were just then studying about the United States, .md were interested to know that I was from there. I made them understand that we in America shared their love for the masters of Greek literature, and they were able to make nic know that they enjoyed learning about y\merica. When our conversa- tion ended — and it was satisfactory, thougli tlu'ii- total Icnowl- edge of Mnglish about equaled ni\- none too \ast recollec- tion of even ancient Greek — I took from ni\- pocket an American flag, and waved it fmn) the top of the I'nyx, and the school, led by the master, eiieered heartil}- for the stars »5 86 VHV. t)i.n woKi.n in iiii': new century and stripes. Such litlk- incicU'iits made us feel at home in Cjieeco. The Ameriean sehool, t(>(\ i;'a\e us a strong' home feehnt;". This is the school supported !))• our American coilci^es, to which each of them in turn sentls its i)rofessor of Greek for a )ear of rest ami study. The students are mostly post- £Traduates from our colleijjes, who are here to stud}' archeology ami do a little metaphorical iligging in the ruins, at least if THE WHARF AT THE PIRAEUS that may be called metaphorical which is done by workmen while the students themselves look on. I fancy that the young men do their actual disjging in the sounds and accents of mod- ern Greek if they learn it at all ; for so far as I could judge, the modern tongue is a perverse and badly corrupted survival. How- ever that may be, the American school itself is the center of American life in Greece. Here any American may come not only for the sight of home faces, but for help in studN-ing the ruins. Professor Rufus 1). Richardson, the director, gave us an inspiring lecture on the Acropolis, and enabled us to get our bearings as we began to see the city. Later many of us visited the school, and were most courteously entertained. ATHENS, AND OUR HAPPY VISIT TO GREECE «7 We had seen a good deal of Athens ah-eady. The city lay in \-iew from the ship, its chief points plainly visible through a good glass, though we were anchored some miles out at sea, and the city is fi\-e miles inland from its ancient and modern harbor, Piraeus. We recognized the Acropolis at once, with the Parthenon caged in with staging erected for its repair. Behind rose Hymettus, Parnes, and Pentelicus, of which we had read all our lives. We were anchored in the THE FORUM OF DEMOSTHENES waters of Phaleron, and to our left lay Salamis, where the Persians met their defeat. We were soon in boats antl sailing the .^gean. Then we crowded into special trains — we had the privilege of going by trolley or in carriages if we chose — and moved with reasonable rapidity to Athens. Close by the railwa\' station where we left the tiain stands the temple of Theseus, the best preserved o{ all the ancient Athenian temples. We felt at home as soon as we saw it; for jiictures of it are as familiar to every .\merican bo\' as are those of the capitol at \\\Tshington. Hut we ucie the richer by far for the sight of it. since no pictures gi\-o the soft golden brcjwn coloring whicii makes it a tielight to the e)e. 88 riir o\.\) woki.d in tiii-. ni:\v century A somewhat L^dnulous i;uiclc i)racticccl l'jiL;lish on us here, and wc oscajicd up the liill toward the Acro])olis, where we sat about ou fallen coluuius and listened to Professor RichardsiMi. We were courteously but earefull)- watchetl to prex'ent our carrxin;^ ofT souvenirs. Since Lord I'di;in robbed the Acropolis for the benefit of the liritish Museum, the Greeks, Avho say THE TEMPLE OF THESEUS no masses for the repose of Lord Elgin's soul, look out for tourists with relie-huntino- propensities, and there were enough of us to have carried the Parthenon off bodily. The guards, however, did not find their duties burdensome, and some young soldiers posed picturesquely for the photographers of the crowd. Some of our girls spoke of carrying ofT a guard as a souvenir, and the young soldiers seemed nothing loath. One young lady, seeing a camera pointed toward a nice-looking young soldier, who was posing in front of a column of the Parthenon, ran up and stood bcsiile him, to their mutual ATHENS, AND OUR HAPPY A'lSIT TO GREECE 89 satisfaction, and the envy of the more timid girls. She was a bright girl, and he looked well in his ballet skirts, and with brushes on the tips of his shoes, as though he would polish them one against the other. The Acropolis, the "height of the city," was used in the early war-times of Athens as a citadel of defense and refuge. Later the temples were erected upon it, but the possibility that the strength of the place might be needed in time of war was always kept in mind. The massiveness of the Propylaea and of the retaining walls, where the rock is not suffi- ciently sheer, show the influence of this idea. The Propyla^a, or por- tal, is in itself a noble structure. The name means "before the gate," and the gate itself is with- in and above; but the Propylsea is the true gate. On the right as one enters is the temple of Athena Nike, or Wingless Victor}-, an architectural gem, onl\- eighteen by twenty-seven feet, witli four columns at eitlicr end tliirtcen and one-half feet high. Passing through the Proi)yla a, and ascending the roadway cut out of the rock, one sees to the left of the Paitlicnon the l'"rechtheum with its exquisite portico of tlic maiiK-ns. Tiicse statues, which are caryatids, are the only iiiaihlcs K-fl intact on tlie Acropolis. Even of these, our is in terra-colta, t(^ su])pl\- the place of the one wrenched from its place b)' Lord Llgin. The Parthenon is recognized as the most i)erfect monument of ancient art. Even in its ruins it insjiires tiietleepest a(hni- ration. It crowns the Acropolis, and staiuls five hundred THK KNVV OK TlIK MORE TIMID (ilKLS" go I'lU", (HA) WOULD IN llll". NKW CKNTim feet abm-e the sea. aniouL;' ruins of otlier and (Mil)- less famous buildiiiL;s. It is built of I'entelic niai"i)le. ami the architects were Phidias .nul Ictinus; hut IViicles, who procured the ni(Mie\- and encoura;^etl the erection of the buildini;, is counted the real buikler. It r.iises cone's ris^'hteous wrath to know that this building;- came down almost to our own time in compara- ti\elv i^ootl repair, and was wrecked b\- a bomb fired by the X'enetians, in 1687. The Turks, who hekl the Acropolis, hatl stored their powder in the Parthenon, and its explosion laid in ruins the iinxst beautiful structure that we have inherited from the ancient workl. These buildings of Pentelic marble are not white, but a rich light brown, more restful to the eye, as time has stained and softened the glistening whiteness of former davs. How- ever glorious the Acropolis must have been in the days when she bore her crown in unspotted white, it is a blessing that time has chastened tlie luster of the ruins. Were these in white, the Acropolis would seem a veritable cemetery, with its noble buildings standing in their own nude skeletons as tombstones above the graves of their dead glory; as it is, they are the faded and unobtrusive, but still magnificent, survivals of their former selves, standing neither in the proud arrogance of their pristine white nor yet in the hopeless black of abased desola- tion, but in the soft and mellow brown of cheerful but sub- dued reminiscence. With these mellow tones of color, the landscape harmon- ized. There were no high lights. There was a gentle alterna- tion of sun and shade that culminated in rain, followed by a clearing into fresh air and calm, but not brilliant skies. The blue of the sky was pale, and the colors of the hills were not dull, nor were they over-bright. There was a dreamy, remi- niscent haze that lay over the soul of things, yet gave fitful glimpses of the far-away that seemed farther. On one side the Acropolis lay the city, its activities giving to us only the harmonized hum of their variant noises; on the other side the shepherds kept their sheep. A squad of soldiers came swinging up the hill, and the bugler, taking his stand at the ATHENS, AND OLM^l HAPPY \'ISIT TO GREECE 91 foot of Mars' Hill, gave forth stirring notes, which, to those near, were meant to wake the spirit of present duty, but which, rising to us. mellow and gentle as the landscape, seemed better toned to call back the spirit of a mighty past. "ON TIIK OTHKR SI l)K '] H K SHKl'HKRDS KKl'T rill.lR SHKKP Photograph by Miss Anna M. Matthews Close by the Acropolis is Mars' llill. It is. and probably always has been, a rough hill, and the steps are so worn and broken that the ascent is made with some difficulty. Ho\-s are near who offer to assist, and who break off, and for a trillr give to the tourist, bits of the red conglomerate, with }-ellow crystals here and there in it, of which the hill is composed. The ff)rmation is the more noticeablr ix-iausr tlu- Acropolis is a li'dit h'mcstonc. 0-' rill-: Di.D WORLD IN Till': Ni;\v cEwrrm To staiul on tlic Acropolis is inspiring, hut the Areopagus is \-ct more so, ami the memories which it e\'okes are such as to stir the hhxHl. It was probably in the autumn of the year ;i that Taul came to Athens. It was not on his itinerary, lie came without any apparent purpose to work here, but simp!}- to wait for his companions whom he had left at l^eroea. He had come into Europe in pursuit of a vision — a man of Macedonia asking help. He had come, and had not found the man. The men were more rare in church than now. Paul's first preaching in Europe was to women. The first man to listen to him was the jailer at Philippi. Paul had had a hard time. Writing of it afterward he said that his flesh had no rest; without were fightings and within were fears. Bruised, scourged, disappointed, he came to Athens. There he saw more art and cultured idolatry than he had ever seen before. It was an idolatry that had lost its moral earnest- ness, which half doubted all gods and tolerated them all. Paul discussed matters with those Jews whom he first met, and afterward, as the rumor of his presence spread, he found his audience growing till he was invited to tell the story of Jesus to a hardly polite and cynical audience of Attic philoso- A >^ .•—■ <*«;« ^3 WHERE I'AIL PREACHED IN ATHENS ATHENS, AND OUR HAPPY VISIT TO GREECE 93 MODERN ATHENS pliers- on Mars" Hill. The Acropolis was in its glory then, and its buildings rose in faultless marble above him as he stood. With rare tact he took his text from a heathen poet who had been granted a dim vision of the fatherhood of God. It mattered little to Paul that Aratus called God Jove, or that he spoke of Jove as our Father almost in tliat impersonal way in which men speak of "Mother Earth." The word had been said, and Paul read into it the full message of the gospel. The congregation hardly heard him through, but some, and among them one of the notable men. believed, and the new- religion grew. In time the I'ai-tlu-noii itsi'lf was rcdedicated as a Christian church; and in the sixth cunlur\- Minerva, for whom the cit\- was named, was supplanted in popular affec- tion by Maiy. the nu)ther of Jesus. Would .ui\- .Stoic who heard Paul ])rearli that day have believed that I'allas Athene herself would one day be held second in the esteem of ;\tluMis to the mother of tin: unknown Carpenter of Galilet', whom Paul preached' N'et so it canu' to pass. And now one \'isits Athens less to see where .Socrates taught, and I'lato reasout'd, and Solon made laws, and Pericles governed, and I'hidias wrought his immriital di-eams in stone, and I'laxiteles hewed «»} nil o\.\) woKiD IN rill, Ni;w cicntuuy out liis sliapcs of marble hrautw and Dt'inostlu-ncs poured forth his loncnls of clmpR'ncc. than to stand on the rocky aiul un.ulorneil liei'Ljht wlicre I'aul [)rcuchcd his sermon of a Gotl unseen, hut not far from e\'eiy one of us, and of Jesus Christ the S,i\ iour of all. One must dine. e\en in Athens, and we had honey from H\-mett us. ami 1 for<;et what else. This was the one thing 1 \\cis tletermined to ha\'e, and the one thin<4' I rememl)er to ha\e eaten. It was good enough honey for the (jreek gods, but we ha\'e better at home. The peasants bring it in in goat-skins, and it looks none too clean as it comes into Athens; but they strain it and make it reasonably good. The king of Greece came to see us on the Celtic that afternoon, and acted like a thorougligoing democrat, l^he queen and two of the {orinces accompanied him, and next da)- they received a number of the tourists at the palace. There were few passengers on board at the time when they called on us, and those who were there were greeted with dignified cordiality. One man who did not happen to have receivetl an introduction, walked straight up to him and said, "Good afternooTi, sir. I understand that you are the king of Greece. I am an American. My name is Jones, from Pittsburg." It may sound like a rude thing, but it is said not to have seemed so to the few who heard it, n(^r to have been treated so by the king. His majesty shook hands with the American, said a courteous wortl, and went on about his business. We had another day in Athens, and we had done so much that the problem of the second day became perplexing. If we had liad a month we could have used it, but a day was too much. I got a carriage, and went over the ground again, to the Acropolis, the Pnyx, the Areopagus, the temple of Olympian Zeus, and the other places of chief interest. The crowds were gone, and I saw these places more quietly. The two impressions, the one with the crowd and tlie other in comparative solitude, together gave the angle at which to view ancient Athens. Two things surprised us in Athens — the air of general ATHENS, AND OUR HAPPY VISIT TO GREECE 95 prosperity in a countr}- practically bankrupt, and with a sadly depreciated currency; and the fine, manly appearance of the young men in the Greek army, which made so miserable a stand against the Turks. It seemed to us that such men might have won the freedom of Macedonia, and humbled the pride of the arrogant Turk, In one of the public gardens of Athens, near the temple of Olympian Zeus, stands a fine recent statue to Byron. Greece remembers his interest in her liberties, and the Ameri- THK STADIL'.M Photograph by Mrs. K. 15. Newell can only wishes that it had been less pyrotechnical and more honestly earnest. A guard stands there, and when u e dis- mounted he pointed with pride to the well-kept shrubbery, and then pointed up to the statue, apparr-ntly to say that not only in the erection of a monuiut'nt which, once erectetl, abides, but also in the daily care which the foliage recpn'res, y\thens shows her love for the poet who stirnul the hcail of the uoild in favor of (ireece. A stiff breeze came up on the secoiul afternoon, and we sped out to our ship before it. It was glorious, that outward sail, and a slight accident occurring on board, the sailors were glad to let me take the helm while tlu'v made fast a sail that OO rill-. 1)1.1) wouii) IN iiii': m;\v century tore loose ill {he wiiul; it was cxiiilaratiiig to bear a hand in tlie sailiiiL; o( a hoat on tlie Way of IMialeion, which lias been plowetl b}' the keels ()t frit^ates and triremes and buc- caneers since the world was yonnq;. And so we came on board. It was a beantifnl evenini;", and the descendini;' sun lay SUNSET ox SALA.MIS over the peninsula and the bay where Xerxes met his defeat in 480 B. C. "A king sat on the rocky brow Tiiat looks o'er sea-born Salamis. And sliips by thousands lay below, And men and nations - all were his. He counted them at l)reak of day, And wlien the sun set where were they?" The sun was setting, and we looked over at Xerxes' seat, and at the tomb of Themistocles, who defeated that great ATHENS, AND OUR HAPPY VISIT TO CxREECE 97 tyrant, and the battle that saved not only Greece but the world seemed wonderfully real. Just as we were leaving Pirseus there was a small commo- tion, and a final boat came alongside, and a small Greek lad was put into it and taken ashore. He went over the side crying, for he had stowed himself away on our ship, hoping to make the rounds with us, and go to America. His case touched us all, and we did not wonder that he wished to stay with us, since we would so gladly have remained longer with him. May he stay at home and learn in Greece the spirit of Leonidas! We remained on deck that evening, looking back, while the darkness settled and the light lingered long and lovingly on the Acropolis, where still linger our fond memories. I pointed my camera across the Bay of Salamis as the sun went down, and so caught the fading glories of that happy day, with its glorious light on sea and shore. i\s the last gleam of light lifted from the Acropolis, and the shadows deepened about the receding shore, we became reconciled to Byron, and sang to the city herself — " Maid of Athens, ere we part, Give, O give me hack my lieart I" CHAPTER VII CONSTW riNOri.K: TIIK CROSS AND TIIK CRESCENT Wc liiul enjoyed warm weather, but we found snow alont; the Dardanelles. Happil\-, it had disappeared when we reached Constantinople, and we were fairly comfortable there. lUit few of the stovepipes, thrust through window-panes throughout the chill city, showed any smoke emerging. The people were saving their fuel. Throughout our tour the impression grew upon us that warm climates are the places of all on earth where men suffer with the cold. I refrain from quoting that in Constantinople distance lends enchantment to the view. The remark has been made before. Few cities present so attractive an appearance from the harbor. It surrounds the bay where the ships lie at anchor, and is divided into three parts by the Bosporus, with Scutari to the right in Asia, and the Golden Horn with its fresh water separating Pera and Galata on the east from Stamboul, or Constantinople proper; but Stamboul is a peninsula, thrust out so far between the opposite shores that Galata really lies north of it, rather than east. The two headlands of Scutari and Stamboul mark the confines of the Sea of Marmora and the beginning of the Bosporus. There are no bridges across the Bosporus, but there are two across the Golden Horn, into which empty "the sweet waters of Europe." It is not at all difificult to get the princi])a] divisions of Constantinople in mind, as the three main parts are so distinct. Galata and Pera are separated by no natural boundary like the rest, but Galata is the loAver section nearer the water, and Pera the higher portion. The four divisions having been fixed in mind before one leaves the ship, it is not difficult to get a few land- marks which make a tour of the city comparatively easy. 98 CONSTANTINOPLE : THE CROSS AND THE CRESCENT 99 We were boarded by Turkish officers far down the Darda- nelles, who examined our papers, and took off our purser and surgeon to the shore to certify that we were in good condition as regards health and civility. They were anxious to know whether we had on board any anarchists or Armenians, and being assured, verbally, that we had not, they expressed pleasure. Later the Constantinople officers came on with THE SUBLI.MK PORTK many a red fez and much tarnished gold lace, and repeated the same questions. They asked for our passports, and were shown a stack of parchment nearly a yard high; for our docu- ments had been collected in advance, and in truth they made a formidable looking piK; with their red seals and official cer- tificates. To go through these before permitting us to land was manifestly impossible, so we were permitted to go ashore by giving our personal cards, I'ut the officers remained on board, and others met us at the dock, and otlurs patrolled about the ship in boats, so that uc did not suffer for lack of loo rill' 0\.\i WORLD 1\ 1111-: NKW CKNTl'RV official attention. This. lun\cvcr, was done with all civility, .uul afforded us no particul.ir embarrassment. A London paper reached us as we were leaving Cairo, with an account of our expedition at Constantinople. The captain was refused permission to land, so the paper said, until after a vexatious delay; was refused permission to fly the flag of the Royal Naval Reserve; the passports were inspected most minutely; and the Americans on shore w-ere dogged by police and detectives; Consul-General Dickinson had to interfere in our behalf, and so on. All of which is a fine exhibit of yellow journalism. Consul-General Dickinson came on board as soon as we dropped anchor, and greatly endeared himself to the passen- gers by constant kindnesses while we stayed. He sailed up the Bosporus with us to the Black Sea, dined with us on the Celtic, and headed a subscription by which we paid off a debt of one thousand dollars on the Girls' School at Scutari — a fine American college, and the complement of Robert College for men. Whether the Celtic flew all the possible British flags, I do not know, but the union jack flew high, and the stars and stripes were everywhere on board, and were waved back from Robert College, and from the Tower of Oblivion in the castle of Rumili Hissar, and the band played "The Star Spangled Ikmner" to answering cheers. In a service at Robert College the students sang "America" with right good will; and we learned that it is a favorite hymn also with the girls at Scutari. There were some police restrictions, but they hampered us little. Indeed, we had more freedom than Americans resident in the city. Three teachers from the girls' school at Scutari, dining on the Celtic, were refused a permit to return to the school, and got ashore for the night to a hotel, under the impression of the guard that they were passengers. One of these same teach- ers, an Armenian graduate of the school, had been in jail at the time of the Armenian massacres. This w^as no unusual exhibition of police activity. It was simply the customary caution of the police. All this seemed to us very strange. CONSTANTINOPLE : THE CROSS AND THE CRESCENT loi but it was no discrimination against the Celtic — indeed, we were repeatedly aware that we enjoyed special liberties. Consul-General Dickinson took a party of seventy of his countrymen to the treasury, in the old harem at Seraglio Point. He had made all arrangements, and we passed the outer gate without delay. But within we were kept waiting two hours, facing a line of beardless eunuchs, with long arms "THIS JJKIDGE OUGHT TO BE MARKED THE CENTER OF THE WORLD" and ill-shapen hips, awaiting a telegram from the sultan con- firming our permission. It came at length, couched in most gracious words, and expressing royal pleasure in conferring the honor. So tiie Americans entered and saw the jewels, and drank coffee out of golden cups, and all the Turks seemed to think that we had been highly honored. We, however, looked often at our watches, thought of thi' things wc fain would see, and remembered tliat we were in rurl IN 1111 M.W L'KNl'im' roniinilor that this phux- w.is taken by x-iolcnco from tlic C'hiisliaiis. This is the third of the I'hristian churi:hcs that have stinnl on this site, the fornicr two ha\ii\L; ht'cn (lostro\'ctl h\- tuc. The first was l)uilt b)' Constantino, and the present lunise 1)\- Justinian. The C'hristian frescoes and mosaics have been painted ovcv, but here and there tliey show through. There is a gooil deal of whitewash apparent in tlie average mosijue. and Saint Sophia is no ex'ception. The rugs in all mosques look cheap compared with one's expectations. Those of Saint Sophia are small, pieced together, and pointed toward Mecca. As the building was not erected iov Mohammedan worship, this gives everything an unwonted bias. lie would pass for a poor tourist who would leave Con- stantinople confessing that he had seen but one mosque. Next in interest after Saint Sophia is that of Ahmed I, the onl\- mosque outside of Mecca with seven minarets. It is very- pleasing in its exterioi, and tempts one again to say what I have resolved not to say, that distance lends enchantment to the view. Below, and extending to the clearstory, are courses of the old tile in prevailing tones of rich blue, so that this is sometimes called the blue mosque. But above the tile are new decorations in paint or other color with crude attempts to match the tile below. One of our young ladies described the effect as "simply eye-scratching." Next to this in inter- est is the Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent. Of the three, it is commonly said that Saint Sophia is the most beautiful, Ahmed the most graceful, and Suleiman the most magnificent. There are I know not how many more mosques, and many of them are alleged to be of interest. But my experience with mosques leads me to say that they are generally a disap- pointment. Their elegant carpets look as if they had been made in some shoddy modern factory, and their decorations are generally cheapened by their striving after effect. One soon wearies of the monotony of the mosques, and is glad to return to a world where he can wear his own shoes. We had one meal in a famous Stamboul restaurant. We CONSTANTINOPLE: THE CROSS AND THE CRESCENT 109 had to leave our carriages at the muddiest corner in Constanti- nople, and pick our way through the narrowest and most unappetizing street, and climb a stair. But once within we fared very well, and feasted on Turkish delight, and other things whose names I have forgotten, and concerning whose ingredients there is a deep and solemn mystery. When one eats in a Constantinople restaurant, his guide stands guard RUMILl HISSAR AND ROBERT COLLEGE over liim, and hurries the waiters, or docs what in the Orient is counted an attempt to hurr\-, and settles with the visitor afterward. It was one of the oddest experiences of our tour to see this grou]) of oui' guides, with the gold-laced cavasses from the consulate, standing along the walls witli \\hi[)s ami swords, and stopping the waiters to inspect our orders. Still, it gave us the feeling that we were being looked after, and it was one of the things we had come to see and ilo. We greatly enjoycil a lecture delivered on shiptxiard by Professor van Millingen ol kobert ('olK:L;e, on "Ancient Con- I lo viw. oi.n woivi.n i\ riu m \v ci:\rrRV stant inopk-."' It iu,it<.Ti. illy assisted us in locating:; the ancient places in tiio L\instantin(iplc oi tc»-(.la\\ In nian\' places the ancient w.ills arc standing, followiuL; the spcar-trail of Con- st. intinc. when he built his own new cit)' on the site of one much oKlcr. More than twenty-six centuries ago the Greeks estahlisheil a colony on the Asiatic side of the Bosporus. These adventurers were folh^wed a generation Liter by another band of Greek wanderers, who sc^ught advice of the oracle concerning their city's location. ''Build your city over against the city of the blind," replied the oracle. Rarely did the oracle speak so plainly. Who could be so blind as the men who had failed to see the superior advantages of the peninsula on the European side of this ocean-river? They founded their city there, and from their leader, l^yzas, they named it Byzantium. So it stood until the fourth Christian century, when Constantine built upon its site the New Rome, which he named for himself, and here removed the capital, leaving the city on the Tiber to languish. Fifty years before America was discovered the Mohamme- dans laid siege to Constantinople, and built their great castle, Runiili Hissar, on the European side above the city, and cap- tured it in 1453. The ancient castle stands, its walls forming the initial of the name Mohammed. Seen from the Bosporus, it is the most impressive castle that I have ever looked upon, and the towers with which its \vall is studded give it an appearance of great strength. Just above it on the hill stands Robert College, built also for the conquest of the city, but by peaceful and righteous methods. It is one of the most striking accidents or providences of juxtaposition that has caused the erection of these two institutions where they stand, and the suggestion of similarity and contrast comes to one at once. By education and morality and spiritual power the college will yet prove the mightier castle of the two. Its position is prophetic. There is destiny in the mere propin- quity of the two. At the lower corner of the castle farthest from the city stands a tower known as the Castle of Oblivion, of which frightful tales are told, of bowstringing and throwing CONSTANTINOPLE: THE CROSS AND THE CRESCENT m into the Bosporus those who entered there. When the Celtic sailed up the Bosporus, and Robert College bloomed out in red, white and blue to greet her as she sailed past, some students climbed to the top of this tower, and there, as from the top of the hill above, they flung out the stars and stripes. America wants no territory there, but the symbol was one to thrill the heart of an American with hope for the future of that land through the dissemination of intelligence THE BOSPORUS and the Christian faith for which that flag waves over the waters of the Levant. In the delegation of Americans who dined with us on the ship and ascended the Bosporus with us, \\as Rev. Robert Chambers, D.D., head of the school and orjihanagc at Barde- zag. He is among the most distinguished of iVnierican mis- sionaries, for his goodness, wisdom, and usefulness. He told me that in a district near jiis home one man had in three months sold a lunulred dollars' \\c)rth of Bibles and Testaments in the Turkish language. The prices are very small, being the cost of publication, or a little less, but books are sold rather than given, because the purchaser values so much more highly what he pays for. It takes a great many Testaments to make a hundred dollars, and the people who l)ii\- them are mostly 1 1 Till-: DLi) WOULD IN 1111. m:\\ ci:NrrK\ poor, hut cayicr to i;ct the Bible, or at least the New 'restaiuent. It is this kind o\ work whieh in time must hiini; enhi;liten- ment to l"url tPB^'^^^ '^ >Tv«Jo"^. CHURCH OF ST. JOHN, KI'HESUS of Persecution," where Christians are supposed to have suf- fered martyrdom, is also standing, and the tourist passes under its arch. Many of the relics offered for sale at Ephesus are spuri- ous, anti the government forbids the exportation of any other sort. Ikit it is j^ossible to secure some small ami manifestly- genuine souvenirs. I ha\c a fragment from the carved capital of a fine column, and also the feet of a marble statue, appar- ently female, and very likely from some of the countless images of the goddess Diana, which once abounded there. I should be glad to know that they belonged to the original I20 nii; OLD WOULD IN 1111 M.W (."I'.NirRY ini.i;^o that tell down tioin lu'axon, ami 1 iloiiht not tlu" man who S(^K1 it to nu- would ha\c ccrtifu'd that ho saw it tail if I had paiel him an extra shilling. The American Board lias a magnificent mission at Smyrna, and the Christian I^ndeavorers su]-)port a missionary in con- nection witii this work. When we were leaving, three boat- loads of girls came out from this mission school and sang their parting songs to us. The)- were a tine company, and their bright, refined faces were a better argument for missionary work than a thousand sermons. A crowd of boys had been out frcMii the mission earlier in the da}', and had gone through the ship with great eagerness, but these had gone back before we returned from Ephesus. So we weighed anchor, and left .Smyrna bcdiind, and next day we saw Patmos, where John wrote the A])ocalypse. And now a feeling of regret began to mingle with our anticipation; we were about to scatter in Palestine and Egypt. Not for three weeks, and then only for a day or two, were we to be together on the ship again. Hut we had need of all our time for repacking and preparation for the most important part of our journey. CHAPTER IX FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE HOLY LAND The dying moon hung low over Mount C.uniel when our ship dropped anchor in the Bay of Acre, and I looked for the first time on the Holy Land. A bright morning star was close to the moon. The two were the veritable symbol of Turkey, hanging like a sickle over the land of the l^ible. I reflected with satisfaction that it was the old and not the new moon; that the power of the Turk wanes and does not \\ax. ]h\t Turkey has been an anesthetic to this land, and has pre- served some customs and memorials that must else have perished. Progress is the foe of ancient relics; and it is relics which one seeks in Palestine. W'e entered Palestine by an unusual way, landing at Haifa instead of Jaffa. I wonder that more people do not do so. It gave us a most exhilarating impression of Palestine. We were taken off the ship in large row-boats, in which swarthy boatmen pulled hard at the long oars to a quaint minor tune, which I heard later in other parts of Palestine. The theme is sung by the stroke oar, and repeated b\' the others. Kach line had one pronounced accent for the stroke. On the rudder squatted a tin}- lad who guidc-d the boat skilfully, and begged for bakshish. lie was a remarkably agile little fellow, and though we filled the thwarts and our baggage the bottom of the boat, he wriggled through under us and between our feet, and bobbed up serenely with extended fez. 1 abetted him to the extent of holding the helm while he was making his collections. The I'>ay of Acre did not bi;long to the Jews, l)ut to the Phonicians, u lu) near here are said to have discovered the ait of making glass. It is (piitc possible that ihc tcar-bottles which some of oui" ])art\- were able to secure lici cilioiit arc 121 I J J •nil', OLD WUKLD IN 1I11-. Ni:\\' C I'.NTl' R V spccinuMis oi this ancient woil^ ol the nation so closely related to the Jews in ancestrw antl so ilitleiiMit from them in reliL;"ion and in theii- intluence on the woiKl. This i)a)- has a distinct place in ancient history, comj)arati\el\' nnlamiliar to ns because liible histc^ry deals so little with the sea. In the lime of the Crusades, this harbor .md the fortress towaiil its northern end became famous. In 1104 Baldwin 1. who had been crowneil Christian king of Je- rusalem in the Church of the Nativity in J^ethlehem on Christmas Day, iioi, cai)tured v\cre; and here the Crusaders held their ground after they IkuI been driven from Jerusa- lem. It was the last home of the Knights of St. John before they left Palestine on that series oi wanderings from island to island that ended in their es- tablishment at Malta. The old Christian fortifications still stand, and the castle is used as a i)rison by the sultan. Acre is a poor village now, and the commercial interests Haifa is a thriving town with a good wharf, built or extensively repaired for the Emperor William. It used to be asked, "What shall he do who comes after the king?" It was assumed that he who came after the king had a hard time of it ; but we were grateful whenever in Palestine we found ourselves camping on the trail of the Emperor William, because of the improved condition of the roads. There were two hundred of us who disembarked at Haifa. The other six hundred jjassengers, who went direct to Jaffa and Jerusalem, can hardly know how much they missed in Galilee. OUR SMALL PILOT of the region center at Haifa FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE HOLY LAND 1^3 Nothing is done promptly where Oriental officials are con- cerned, and our baggage must needs pass the custom-house; but no piece was opened so far as I saw. It is usually pos- sible to avoid delay by making, through the official in charge, a contribution to his favorite Turkish charity. Turkish charities are numerous, and the sultan himself is chief among them. When we emerged from the crowd that gathered on the THE BEAUTIFUL HARBOR OF HAIFA quay I first learned how a dragoman looks. The word sounds very formidable, and I had wondered many times just what a dragoman was like. The sight was full}- up to my expectations. lie who extricated me from the struggling mass of humanity, and piloted me through the custom-house with the simple word of explanation, "I am your dragoman, " seemed from tlu,' outset to justify all jiossible confidence in himself. C)ui' ]Mit}- had all IN 1111. M W C INllKN tircil. loscph spoke to liini in Ar;il)ic, ;iiul ho answcrctl in a single woihI. and \\c l)orc to llu- left up the liill. "When \-ou see a fellow like that," said Joseph, "then you know that lunch is near." We were soon at the pkice, and fouml our lunch spread out on long Oriental rugs; a tin plate and cup for each of us. There were cold chick-en and mutton, rolls, boiled eggs, nuts and honey, and I forget what else; but every meal, morning, noon and night, we had oranges. No one can realize what a blessing they are to tlie tourist in Palestine. In general cnir meals were good, surprisingly good, when it is remembered that almost everything we ate had to be carried along on mules. We had butter only once a day, and that at dinner, which seemed odd; and our breakfasts w^ere jilain. for more than one reason, chief .among which was the importance of getting away early. We had four o'clock tea in camp when we arrived in time for it, and a good, hearty dinner at 6: 30. W'e seldom had shade or grass at our lunch- eons. The rugs were spread usually under olive-trees; but the olive leaf is small, and the tree gives less shade than one would expect, and the ground underneath is generally culti- vated. The water was served from porous jars that cooled by evaporation, and all our camp drinking-water had been boiled for us. Those wdio chose brought along their own supply of bottled w-ater. This involves some expense for a mule or donkey to carry the water, but those who spent money in this way were well satisfied with their expenditure. "Harosheth of the Gentiles" was the scene of this jubilant picnic lunch, our first in Palestine. Harosheth is the place where the defeated Sisera w^ent to rest in the tent of Heber. While Sisera slept, Jael, Hebcr's wife, killed him with a tent- pin. It was an act of Oriental treachery, but much lauded because of Sisera's hostility to Israel in those troublesome times. Harosheth means forest, and oak-trees are there in some- thing approaching abundance. The shade of the trees was grateful to us at lunch time, and we remembered it pleas- FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE HOLY LAND 131 antly afterward, for we saw few oak-trees elsewhere in Palestine. Travelers have given us quite too dreary a picture of Palestine. At least so it seemed to us as we drove across the SILAH STEALINf; THK FF.AG great plain of Esdraelon. Tlu- beauty of thr place charmed us beyond expression. Ahead of us stootl Mount Tahor; to our right loometl C'armei ; and (av to the northward, its hoary summit visible across a Inindrrd interx'cning hills, stood out Mount Ilermon in its eternal crown of snow. It was beauti- ful bex'ond all f)ur anticipation, and more so because of its sacrcil associations. I,:;-' 1111. 1)1,1) WOivl.l) IN rill'. M.W CI':NTI'RV Tlic wiKl tlowors arc alnuulant in all i)arts of Galilee. 'Vhcv ilo not ^row rank ami tall, hut llowcr within a few inches oi the i;rouncl. ami the ci)lors arc- unexpectedly bright. There are \-ello\v chr\-santhenuinis and bright red poppies, the hitter so numerous that sometimes a slope is fairly red with them. The poppx-anennMie is belie\-ed to ha\'e been "the lily of the field" of which Christ spoke, and it makes the liillsides of Galilee i;iow with its bright scarlet. Palestine flower-seeds may be purchased in Jerusalem, and thev erow and blossom in America. Both the "lily of the field" and the chrysanthemum, grown from seed which I prcKuired in Palestine, are now^ blooming in my own garden. The history of nations is profoundly influenced by the physical features of the land which they inhabit. America is great in part because it has a great and varied territory, with ample room for migration, and convenient means of inter- communication between districts wildly diversified in soil and climate. England is great in large degree because of her coal and her coast. Greece became what she was commercially because of her islands and her harbors. Switzerland is explained in part by its position, isolated as it is, yet in the very center of Europe, a little mountain democracy in the midst of great monarchies. l*alestine is of interest because the land itself bears the closest possible relation to the scenes which were there enacted. The physical features of the Holy Land, its moun- tains and valleys, are referred to again and again in Scripture. "The Land and the Book" belong together. Palestine has been called, and justly so, "a fifth gospel." What were the physical features of Palestine which fitted its people to bear their wonderful share in human history? A concise answer is given by Professor Cornill in the opening chapter of his "History of the People of Israel." The land in whicli the chief part of the history of Israel was played, and which this people regarded as its own, is called by us with a Grasco- Roman designation, Palestine, that is, the Land of the Philistines. The Greeks entered the country by way (jf the coast, and gave to it the name of FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE HOLY LAND 133 the tribe that dwelt there, a phenomenon that we shall observe frequently. The inhabitants themselves called it Kenaan. As this name means, etymo- logically, "lowland," it must originally have been applied only to the Phil- isto-Phcenician coast strip. The land occupied by the Israelites, on the MAI' OF I-ALKSTINI-: contrary, is altogether mountainous, and has a consideral)ic lnwland (uily in tlie plain of Jezrcel. Tliis fact is in accord with the rejiurt of ilic I'hoiii- ciaiis, that they descended from a tribal priigenitnr, Chna, in wliici) name we recognize immediately llie stem of Ken.ian. In Israelitish times, how- ever, only the portion of the land situated west of the Jordan is known as Kenaan ; the land on the east i>f the Jordan has the separate name, (lilead. What we now call Palestine, the land on both si woKi i) IN rill', m:w ci'.nih kv siiuare miles in i-xtcut, that is, ,i litlU' move th;m tlu' area of MassacluisoUs, or of Wales and Herefordshire. Hvdrographicallv tlie land is very seaiuiU eiulnwi-d. ( )l ri\ its, it has the Jordan alone, wiili its trilnitaries, liie most imiunuml ol whicli, iiowever, are all on the east siile: the \'armuk, the |al)l)ok, ami llie Arnon, which latter empties not into tlie Jordan proper, Init into the Dead Sea. The land west of the Ionian can lioast really of no rivers sa\ r ihc Kishon in the [ilain of lezreel ; Init in the hottest part of the season this is a slight rivnlet, and beijins to be a considerable river only a few miles aliove its entrance into the Mediterranean Sea at Haifa. The fertilitv of Palestine is dependent exclusively on tlu' rain which falls in winter, and on the dew of summer, wherefore it is more clearly and more perceptibly than in other lands a l^lessing from above, a gift of heaven, so that the eye of man was here directed upward, toward heaven, by nature herself. The Jordan, the sole river of Palestine, called to-day "esch Scheriat el Kebire," the (^reat River, lias not its like on eartli ; instead of uniting the adjacent lands and shores like other rivers, the Jt)rdan separates them as an almost impassable barrier, since its extraordinary fall and its winding and twisting course make navigation on it impossible. Of moderately con- venient and always available fords, it has only three between the Lake of Gennesaret and the Dead Sea. Thus it comes about that we are obliged to consider the land east of the Jordan and that west of the Jordan as two really distinct lands without connection with each other. The Jordan plain, called to-day "el Ghor," is almost entirely uninhabit- able, in summer on account of the tropical heat, in winter on account of the floods; it was and is still a notorious resort antl liiding-place for all pos- sible beasts. The southern part of the country, too, the regions aliout the Dead Sea and the so-called mountains or wilderness of Judah, are sparsely populated, and capable of sustaining only a scant population. In ancient times, as well, it must have been much as it is to-day, since natural condi- tions have not changed. The country east of the Jordan is but a narrow strip of tillable land wedged in between the valley of the Jordan and the vast Syro-Arabian desert. Only in its middle and northern portions is the land really fertile and adequate for a considerable population, and this especially on the slope toward the Mediterranean coast, the lowlands of Sharon and Shephela, which Israel never succeeded in occupying. But upon this narrow and limited soil our astonished eyes meet an infinite variety and diversity of details. Palestine deserves the name of the land of contrasts; here is found gathered together everything between a sub-tropical climate and the region of eternal snow. The mighty moun- tain peak of Hermon, whicli forms the northern l)t)iindary of the country, is covered with perpetual snow, and rises to an altitude of over nine thou- sand feet, some three thousand feet more than Mt. Washington, or more than twice the height of Ben Nevis. There we have Alpine landscape and Alpine flora. The mountain region of Galilee, the most healthy por- tion of Palestine, has the most moderate climate; the southern portions, especially the plain of Jezreel and the seacoast, have a warm climate; and in the valley of the Jordan and about the Dead Sea it is actually sub-tropi- FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE HOLY LAND i.S5 cal. In Ghor a temperature of 109 "-^ F. has been observed in the shade in the month of May, and along the Dead Sea, even after sunset, when in other southern lands a sudden coolness usually sets in, the thermometer has recorded 95° F. And accordingly the vegetation here is sub-tropical; tlie balsam used to thrive here, and the palm still does, wherefore Jericho was formerly called the City of Palms. On account of these great climatic extremes the flora of Palestine in general is exceedingly rich; some two thousand species of flowers have been noted. It is easy to understand how this natural wealth of nature about him must arouse and inspire the mind and soul of man. But as a whole, also, Palestine is a land of contrasts, and this in a man- ner that must be regarded as providential. In the first place, the land is almost entirely shut off from the world outside. On the east and south it is bordered by the desert, like a perfect insulating medium; and on the west by the surging Mediterranean, offering no good harbor on the whole coast of Palestine ito this day a calamity for travelers to the Holy Landj, besides being almost unnavigable by the ships of the ancients because of the strong blasts of the trade-winds. Only on the north is the land accessible, though one cannot say open, for here the two great parallel Alpine chains of Lebanon and Anti-Libaiuis reach across like a natural bar. This same reserve which the land shows outwardly is manifest within as well. Almost everywhere are mountains with deep, abrupt gorges, which con- stitute a great obstacle to intercourse and make travel extremely weari- some and slow. This is providential. For this isolation guaranteed to the inhabitants the undisturbed development of their individLiality; they were exempt from the influence of the great leveler, commerce. Mountaineers are everywhere men of strongly developed individuality. But there is another side to the matter. It is true that the genuine moun- taineer is vigorous and upright, but he is also clumsy and stubborn, revolving complacently ab(jut his own axis, and distrustful and inhospitable toward all influences from without. From this danger Israel was pre- served. For while the land is insulated, at the same time it is a bridge and highway of world-commerce without a parallel. All the ancient highways of commerce went through Palestine. For instance, that primitive one from the Nile to the Euphrates, which runs through Palestine in its entire length, and after crossing the Jordan touches first at Damascus; and like- wise the no less important one from Tyre to the Arabian Gulf, which brought to the Phienicians the products of Arabia, East Africa, Persia, and India. And so, if I may venture to use the figure, Israel was constantly fanned and refreshed by the wings of world-wide connnerce, and thus kejit fnim growing hard and sour, while its individuality ran no risk of being dissolved in a characterless, nebulous cosmopolitanism. .And in still another way this providential tendency to extremes is seen. The land was favored in many ways, but on the other hand it was full of pests. In early times wild beasts, such as the lion and the bear, the wolf and the panther, the jackal and tlie hyena, must have lived there in great numbers, and even to this day serjjcnts are a grc;it pest, Palestine h;i\ ing 1^6 'rnK oi.n woixi.n in ii: Ni:\v cM'.NrrKV more llian twcnly species, anioiii; them live very dangen-iis and poison- ous ones. Kurtlierniore. tlie land is fertile: wheat of all varieties, grapes, figs, olives and pomegranates thrive abundantly, luil not without labor and care. Of Talestine especiallv the old Bible sentence is true: " In the sweat of thy face shalt tliou eat bread." These contrasts are also very important. There was no chance for the relaxing and enervating effect that comes when man receives from nature without exertit)n all that he needs; he was spurred and forced to the full exertion of his powers; but this application was not dis- couraged by the prospective fruitlessness of his exertions, a condition which makes man as stupid and indifferent as when everything falls into his lap of itself; but prosperity was the reward of toil. He ktiew that it paid to exert his powers. A land, therefore, which seemed as if made to produce a physically and mentally sound race, that brought thither the capacity to fulfil the mission assigned it by God. The I^oman historian, Tacitus, also, in his famous description of the Jewish people, dwells especially on the exceptional health, strength and endurance of this race. And accordingly the Israelite has always clung to his country with sincere gratitude and lov- ing loyally; it was to him the paragon of countries, and he recognized the gracious dispensation of his God, especially in the fact that this precious land had been assigned and promised to him without any merit and desert of his own. MOUNT CARMKL CHAPTER X NAZARETH, THE BOYHOOD HOME OF JESUS Our first day's journey in Palestine brought us to Naza- reth. The village came upon us suddenly, but not unexpect- edly, as we rou!uled a hill. Before us, upon an elevation, but encircled with hills, the town nestled among green fields and gray rocky slopes. To the right of the village, as we drew near, appeared the white tents of our camp. Our camp was the largest of its kind and quite covered the threshing-floor of Nazareth. We drove up to it, all unused to camp life, and ready for new experiences. It was not easy to find our own tents. About fifty small ones were pitched in a double hollow square whose farther end was closed by the fourfold dining-tent, with kitchen tents behind. Still beyond were the pack-mules and donkeys and saddle-horses. The camp was a maze. The most absolute order pre- vailed, but we had always to hunt our tents. Each mule that carried a load of tents was unloaded as he came in, and the tents which he carried were set up at once. Except for a number in black figures above the flap, and some small Arabic designs for the benefit of our camp servants, the tents were precisely alike outside. The la\- of the land made daily changes in our camp formation, and c\cn wlien the tent was once located it was easy to mistake another for it. i^ut the little mistakes that occurred in this way contributed to the general merriment. Each married couple had a tent. Single persons roomed three in a tent. I was particularly fortunate in ni\- tent- mates, Rev. Drs. Josiah Strong and I). E. Eoren/.. Two more pleasant and helpful companions a man could not desire. Tin.' tents were decorated within in rich OrinUal patterns of Turkey red and white, sewed together by tin: women of Cairo. '37 X H W Si < N < 138 NAZARETH, THE BOYHOOD HOME OF JESUS 139 They were carpeted with rugs, and supph"ed with light iron cot-beds and small wooden wash-stands. The blankets were comfortable, but a steamer rug over the foot of the bed was an additional protection, and on some cool nights was needed. There was always a delightful uncertainty about the linen. UUR (AMI- AT NA/ARKTH The camp servants designated oui- belongings with cabalistic marks of their own, whose accuracy, we more than suspected, did not extend to towels. It certainly was intended that every man siiould have his own towel; but it would have been strange if there had been no changes. The camp was guarded each night by our own men. Wiien we were in fiuestionable places, the horses were dis- tributed on all sides of the camp, the muleteers makini: thus 140 nil 01 n wt'Ui.i) IN rill mw ci'.xrrKV .m ouicr L;iKirt.l. Hositlo these. \vc C(ininu)nly li.ul a local ^iiaril. a sheik-, ami a elo/eii men. lUit this, I suspi-ct, is chietlx- blackmail, ami .imounls to hiiiiiL; tlu- worst lulluins of the ncJL^hborhood not to attack the camp. Wliatever the motive, the arrangement works well, and we slept secure. Nazareth is not mentioned in the Old Testament nor by Josephns. nor yet in the Tahnud. It was an unimportant villa<;e in Christ's time, antl the early disciples wondered that any L;ood thing could come from there. It was not disrep- utable, but only obscure. It was not so secluded, however, as is commonly sujiposed. It was only a little ofT the great roads which ran from north to south across Galilee to Jeru- salem and Egypt, and was near to that which connected the ancient city of Damascus w ith the coast. Located as it is in a basin among the hills, and on a slope not very high, it has within easy reach hilltops that afford some of the finest views in Palestine. From the Sea of Galilee to the Great Sea, where the sun sets, and from the great white summits of Mount Hermon across the valley of Esdraelon, with its fertile beauty and its historic memories, the whole country is in sight from the hills just above Nazareth. Thirty miles in every direction one can see clearly. The boy Jesus must often have looked upon these scenes from the top of the hill, which was an easy climb from Joseph's shop, and his soul must have been stirred with their natural beauty and their historic inter- est. Here he must often have sat and meditated and won- dered and aspired. It is written that he increased in wisdom and in stature and in favor with God and man. We are accustomed to think of the influence of the mountains in developing strong character, and the surroundings of Nazareth afforded a ruggedness combined with fertility that would inspire strength and gentleness; but not every Galihtan boy had close at hand, as Jesus had, a view of the sea, with its suggestion of distance, and a horizon not shut in by hill or plain. Surely here was a view to thrill his growing soul. The roads in sight from these hilltops were thronged with pilgrims and with caravans, bringing the news from every part NAZARETH, THE BOYHOOD HOME OF JESUS H^ of the Roman world within easy reach of the growing Child of Mary. Nazareth was a good place for Jesus to spend his boyhood. It was secluded, yet in the midst of sights and experiences of the most thrilling interest. Nazareth is a Christian village. No Jews are permitted to liv^e there. There is poverty and dirt enough, but never- theless it is the pleasantest village in Galilee, There and at INTERIOR OF TENT Bethlehem, also a Christian town, one meets the finest types of men and women to be seen in Palestine. There is much in Nazareth that invites the visitor forth sightseeing, the first phicc usually visited being the Church of the Annunciation, which was built in its present form in 1730. Descending to a vestibule known as the Angel's Chai)cl, and passing between two altars, the one to St. Joachim ami the other to the angel Gabriel, we enter the chapel of the Annunci- ation, whose altar bears the Latin words. "I lie veibuni caro factum est," "Here the Word was made Hesh." Here are two columns, one of them in the lloor niarl^ing the place where the angel stood, and the other suspended from the ceiling and '}• THK OLD WOKl.n IN THE NKW CKXTUKY said to l)c miracuKnish' su|)i>i)i-ti.'i,l, sliowiiiL; the spot wIutc .Mar\- received the message. Ileie it is that one c;ets his Inst repui^nant feeling ttnvaid the spurimis miracles which tc^rnient him at ever>- jtlace he visits in Palestine. \\'h\-. in the name oi all reason. shouKl a i)cri)elual miiacle be wrous^ht to suspend a column that marks INIary's conjectural position? If either column should be in the air. it woukl seem as thouu:h it might ha\e been the angel's, though a man can see no excuse for ATTKMPT TO PHOTOGRAPH ONE NAZARETH GIRL placing either one of them in that absurd position. But it will not do to remain long and cavil over a thing like this. It is a small miracle in its way that keeps a column suspended from a ceiling. The house in which Mary lived was trans- ported entire by a miracle, to prevent the Moslems from dese- crating it. This occurred in the thirteenth century, or, to be exact, on the loth of May, 1291. Nobody heard of it at the time, nor for a hundred and eighty years afterward, but that makes no difference; the story was established when I'aul II was pope, and thus the miracle has its authority through official certification. Fortunately the house did not altogether disappear. It was located at Terasto in Dalmatia ; but miracles NAZARETH, THE BOYHOOD HOME OF JESUS H3 were cheap and plenty, and the liouse was moved again, and is now at Loretto, in Italy, Miracles of this sort, moving sacred things about to different places, are very convenient, ANOTHKK ATTKMrT as they make new and profitable shrines without greatly diminishing the value of the old ones. There is enough left to give op})ortunity for myth-making in the Church of the Annunciation, 'i'heie is an underground chiapel of St. Josepii, and from this through a dark anrl wind- ing passage one comes into an old cistern calKd the Kitchen of the Vir woKi i) IN nil-. m:\v cicntdrv of wrath must be one who lias IcanuHl to control his own spirit ailniirahh-. llowoxcr. ours was not a dinner party, and I wouKl ratluM- brush white hairs from a bhiek coat and be able to i;et there than to spend the da\- in equestrian practice on a horse th.it looked as though he mi;;ht come uncoupled in the middle. "What is the matter with the little o-ray stallion?" 1 asked. "lie is very hartl to hold," was the reply. "I would rather have one hard to hold than hard to pro- pel, ' ' said I. They assured me that my horse was very tough-bitted; that I would regret it if I chose him; but I looked the little stallion in the eye, and his eye was kind. lie did not lay back his cars when I approached him, and his legs were smooth and clean antl muscular. Against the advice of all of them, I took the little gray. Many other people changed their horses once or twice a day, but I rode mine from start to finish, and we grew to be good friends. I soon found that my horse was, indeed, a hard one to hold. He had an ambition to head the procession, and he could not understand why I was unwilling to have him assume the lead. There were a few spirited horses in the caravan, whose Arab blood made it irksome to remain behind any other horse. They would gladly have gone to the head of the column, and then have raced with each other. My little horse tried to tell me again and again that I was very foolish not to let him manage the matter himself. I know that I was a disappointment to him, and at times he nearly rebelled; but in one thing I found that he had been greatly maligned, and in that he had my sincere sympathy — he was not tough-bitted at all. Instead, his month was very tender, but he had been ridden with so cruel a bit that he could not be satisfied to travel except with the bit in his teeth. The moment we started out, he would toss his head until he got a firm grip on the bit, and then he would put his head down and forge ahead with all his might. So I discovered that my horse was suffer- NAZARETH, THE BOYHOOD HOME OF JESUS I53 ing under an unjust imputation, and I sympathized with him, for I, too, have sometimes been counted headstrong, and for a Hke reason not wholly just. Wherefore, I gave my horse all the freedom possible, and at the earliest opportunity chantred the bridle. I was warned not to do this; I was told that no other bit would serve to hold him; but I secured the gentlest bit I could find, and spared m}' pony's tender mouth, and I think that he was grateful. The tough-bitted horse or man, so called, is often one to whom the world has seemed cruel by reason of his unusual sensitiveness, and not one who is vicious or full of wilful obstinacy. Wherefore, I bear record to the gentleness and kindness of my little gray stallion. Throughout those days of weary travel he never kicked or showed a vicious trait, though sometimes suffering extreme provocation from other horses near. I spared him on the steep ascents, and walked beside him over the harder places, but I rode him over ditches and rocks, and down steep declivi- ties, and he never slipped or stumbled. His only fault was too great ambition, and a tenderness of mouth, which caused him to be maligned, and these faults I count small when I remember his spirit, his patience, and his sure-footedness. NA/AKI.TH l-KOM Till-: KoAI) To f:ANA CHAPTER XI AMONG THP: hills OI" GALILEE It is cust(iniar\- in rdlcstinc to measure distances by hours and minutes instead of by miles and rods. From Haifa to Nazareth is twenty-three and one-half miles; from Nazareth to Tiberias is about eighteen miles, and the distance is given in the guide-books as five hours and fifty minutes. One can count three miles to the hour, if he is anxious to reduce the distances to miles, but it is always safe to make a little time allowance; for three miles an hour is rather fast riding in Palestine, especially in a company with ladies or others unac- customed to riding. To make eighteen miles before noon involves an early start, and it is amusing to see how success- fully one hundred and twenty pilgrims, constituting a single camp, can be gotten into the saddle at six o'clock in the morning. In our Palestine camp, we were called at five o'clock, breakfasted at five-thirty, and started at six. Thus we avoided the excessive heat, and got our harder half-day's work done in good season. It is not so hard as it might seem to get a party of tourists up in the morning if the right means are employed. A camj) mule loaded with sleicfh-bells and cow-bells sounded the dailv reveille. He trotted up one line of tents and tlown another until he had been drix-en several times around the camp, and was followed by camp attendants beating kettles and kettle covers and every unmusical instrument known to Bedlam. If a boiler factory could suddenly have been projected under each pillow it would not more surely have wakened every soul in our canvas city. But if any further persuasion were needed to get us out of bed and quickly dressed, it was the knowl- edge that in just thirty minutes the canvas-men would be at work at the tents. Joseph spoke of it as the daily march 154 AMONG THE HILLS OF GALILEE 155 around Jericho, between whose walls and the canvas sides of our tents there was a remarkable similarity in the speed of their tumbling. While one is lacing his shoes and getting out his tooth-brush, he hears men at the ropes, and no pro- test shouted in English avails to dissuade them from their determination to get the tent packed as quickly as possible, and on its way to the next encampment. It is a great bother to have to inquire about the truth of CANA OF CiALlKKE things. It is much more convenient to believe what is told you and ask no (picstions. Tradition is a great settler of dis- putes to those who trust tratlition. The argument in favor of tradition amounts to this, that any link of human testimony or conjecture of the present must have sui)port. But it \ou lengthen the chain until the end of it is out of sight, it is safe to believe that there is surely a hook' somewhere; but if not, the chain, if long enough, can somehow hang alone. Kafr-Kenna is the traditional site of C"ana of Galilee. I)r. Robinson denies the claims of this village, and believes that the real Cana was Kan.i-el-Jelil, which lies nine iiiiK's north ot Nazareth, and Hastings' new 1 )ietioiiaiy of tlu' i'.ible, with 156 iiii; (.)i.i) woKi.n IN nil m.w ci:Ni"URV otluM- recent authoi ilies. slroUL^ly supports Rohiiison's view. Now. this is a urcat .mnoN-ance, for K.an,i-(.-l- 1 elil lies oil the road oi tlie oi\linar\- tourist, and it is uiueh more convenient when scholars ai^ree in sujiportinL;- the claims of the more accessible sites. Vor m\-self, I believe in tin: ^tMuiineness of Kafr-Kenna. because this is the one 1 visited. Moreover, nobod\- in Kafr-Kenna iloul)ts the genuineness of this, the traditional site. And .1 lan^e proportion, if not a majority, of scholars favor this place. We were ridini^- alon^- from Nazareth to Tiberias. It was a foggy morning, and the road was bad. We had crossed a high and rocky hill and came down into the valley past tlie spring where tlie Franks gained their victory over the Moslems on May 1, I 1S7. The fog began to lift, and we were able to see across to the left the ancient village of Gath-hepher, where Jonah was born, as we are told in 2 Kings, 14: 25. It is this historic reference to Jonah that assures us that the book of Jonah is not without some historic foundation. That, how- ever, does not assure us what is the literary character of the book that bears his name, whether history or parable. Such a character as Jonah must have lived, though the book is not a book of sermons like the other books named for the proph- ets, but is rather the account, in part poetical, of the prophet's personal experiences, and is, therefore, quite unlike the other books called prophets. There seems to be no doubt about the place where Jonah was born, and if we had cared to ride twelve minutes off our route and back again, we could have seen what passes for his tomb; but we were intent on getting to Tiberias in time for a whole afternoon upon the lake, and inasmuch as there is far less evidence that Jonah was ever in this tomb than there is that he was swallowed by the whale, and as the whale is not on exhibition in Gath-hepher, we pressed straight on to Kafr-Kenna, which lies on the road to Tiberias. Before we reached the village a Greek priest, who lives apparently on this side of the town, came running down and pointing ahead to the village called out to us, "Kahnah of AMONG THE HILLS OF GALILEE '57 Galilee! Kahnah of Galilee!" Our caravan strung out more than a mile along the road, and the priest was not the only one who came to intercept us at the village. A little this side of Cana, for such I like to think it to be, is a village spring, where a fine old sarcophagus serves as a watering- trough. Up on a hill to the right, I heard what I heard nowhere else in Palestine, the puff of a little stationary steam engine, run, I doubt not, with petroleum, for surely there is no fuel in that region to maintain such an industry. I tried to ascertain what business is carried on there, but no one of whom I inquired knew anything about it. I fancy it might have been a small sawmill and turn- ing-lathe for the manufac- ture of olive-wood sou- venirs. The approach to Cana is interesting. It leads through olive orchards and erardens surrounded with cactus hedges. From the bleak hill over which we had come, the descent into this fertile valley was pleasing. Cana is on high ground, though not upon a hill, and the site is inter- esting, being at once fertile and conspicuous. The village itself is unin\'iting. The dirt}', narrow little street has refuse heaps at every corner, and cow thing, whicli is the fuel of the village, is drying on the mud walls of the houses. 'I'his latter charac- teristic, which is not pleasant to mention often, is to lie inferred in the descriptions of most of the smaller x'illages in Talestine. If there is one thing which nioic than any other distresses the sympathetic visitor accustomed to warm, comfortable homes, it is the dearth r)f fuel in these l'".asteiii hinds. The Greek priest hastened ahead of us to the church, which lie oj)ened to show us an earthenware jar which is MAKV OF CANA Photograph by Rev. G. B. F. Hallock, D.O. IS-"^ THK OLD WORLD IN rill'. M:W CM'.NrLUV ilcchuiHl lo lu' oiu- o( llu- w ali-'r-pots used (ov tlic miracle. The little cluiich is coiiif(irlahU\ aiul left a pleasant iin[)ression upon our minds. The piiest was courteous, and was cpiitc willini;' to shmv us \\hate\er he thouL;ht would interest us. lie exhibited to us a tine old copy of the Gospels, woven, I think, into a kintl o( tli.itessaron, or ccMUinuous narrative. The people kiss the cover as they pass out after service, hut are not encouraged to read the Bible in their homes. Near by is the Latin church, in chari;e of the Franciscan monks, and occupying the site of a much older building, thought to have been the ancient synagogue. The father at the head of the establishment is much interested in archeology, and conversed pleasantly in German concerning his investiga- tions. In his judgment, the water-pots were not filled from the common spring, but from a cistern of the house adjacent to the synagogue. This cistern he thinks he has found, and he showed it to us. Of course, the Franciscans also have one of the original water-pots, and a better collection of antiquities than the Greeks possess. It seems important throughout Palestine that all sacred spots should be preserved in dupli- cate, and where there are Coptic or Armenian congregations, besides the Catholic and Greek, it is necessary that there should be more. We w^ere taken into the refectory, and the monks served us wine of the quality supposed to have been used at the wedding. I am not a judge of wine, being a life- long teetotaler, but I tasted of this to try its flavor. In my judgment, the quality would hardly justify a miracle. In Cana, as elsewhere, we were besieged by beggars and by people having trifles for sale. One girl spoke to me in English, and offered me a bracelet, wdiich I bought. I was pleased wnth her face; it was, on the whole, the best face I saw in Palestine. I asked her her name, and she told me it was Mary. She w-as an orphan, and had been educated at the orphan's school in Nazareth. I liked her face and also her name, and not having found a face in Nazareth that quite answered my requirements for a typical Madonna, a friend and I proposed to make a photograph of her; and as my own AMONG THE HILLS OF GALILEE 59 camera was not at hand, my friend offered to photograph her for me. She consented on condition that she might put on her best clothing. When she came at length for her picture, she had rigged herself out in half- European dress, as unlike as possible to anything in which we wished to picture her. I am afraid the photograph will hardly show her as I wish it TWO WO.MEN SHALL BE GRINDING AT THI. MILL might, for in truth, she seemed quite changed in Ikm- Sunday clothes, and had become self-conscious, and far less attractive than at first siie seemed to be. The Tirecks have a little school at Cana, and teach the children Arabic and l'>ench. The schoolroom, which we visited, was clean and cool, and they served us lemonatle, and were (rlad of a little contribution. Of the six hundred inhabi- tants of Cana, half are Moslems, and the most of the remainder are Greek Christians, with a few Latins and a still smaller i6o riiK oi.i) wDKi.n IN iiii': new century miinhcr of riolcslants. All ^A the inhabitaiUs whom \vc met were courteous, w hich is not true of every village which we visited. Cana is notcti as tlie scene of Christ's first miracle, and it is pleasant to reniember lliat, unlike the mcxst of his mighty w orks, it was called forth by no great exigency of sorrow or distress. When once his i)ublic work liad begun, the problem of human pain pressed lieavy upon him; hunger and disease were evervwhere present; but his first nn'racle had for its immediate object the increasing of human joy. Cana was the home of Nathanael, ami of course his house is still pointed out. No Biblical reference that can be localized stands in need of a place claiming to have been its site. Mary had acquaintances and probably relatives in Cana, and it must have been a satisfaction to the first disciples of Jesus return- ing with liim from the Jordan just after he emerged from the forty days in the wilderness, to find at once that they had mutual acquaintances in the family where the wedding oc- curred. The first call of Jesus for disciples had brought him five of them, who, like himself, were away from home in a season when fishing was slack, forming part of the crowd that attended the preaching of John at the fords of the Jordan. The six came together into Galilee and were guests at the wedding, where Mary seems to have occupied some special relation of intimacy, through kinship or acquaintance, so that the servants recognized her authority. Jesus had been gone from home a good while — forty days in the wilderness, and we know not how much longer. It is entirely possible that the shortage of provision for the wedding was occasioned by the unex- pected coming of himself and five companions. Be that as it may, it is a pleasant thought that he counted a mere embar- rassment on the part of his host and hostess a thing worthy of his consideration, and of the use of his God-given power. It is a reminder that the very best that God has is for the joy of our common life. At Cana, I first saw a woman grinding at the mill, and I passed through the open door and watched the process. She AMONG THE HILLS OF GALILEE \6l sat astride the nether stone, which was hollowed out a little to receiv^e the coarse meal, which the motion of the stones constantly threw out, and which she gathered with her hand and put back again. I took hold of the wooden peg in the upper mill-stone, and turned it round and round, pouring the (ilKL CAKRV1N(; l-UEL wheat into the round hollow in the middle of the stone. It is hard work for one to do alone, for it is a long reach across the stone. I'wf) people get on much better than one, avoid- ing the dead center which is experienced b)- a single griiuicr. When two women are grinding at the mill, and one is taken away, the one who is left has a hard task before her. Across the street, and not far a\va\', was an oven, and I followetl a young woman who entered it. The interior is made very hot with the onl\- kinds of fuel which they can l63 THK OLD WDKl.n IN 11 IK MAV Cl'-NTIUY i;ct. fai^ots ami refuse. A ihovn plant, niakin<^- a kind of brush, which is cut anil carried by the wcinu-n on their heads, is the l\i\aM-ite oven fui-l. The oven is U)\\ , ha\inL; barely room iov one to crouch within. The earthen or concrete floor has round holes, whose top is covered with a smooth stone or metal plate, and the bottom laid deep with clean pebbles or rouml, smooth stones. The oven is heated until the stones in these depressions are sufficiently hot, and the bread or other articles to be baked are placed upon them and covered up, not unlike the method of the shore clambake. The bread is baked in Hat, thin cakes. Besides bread, the voune woman was bakin<'- turnovers with some oreen vege- table between the crusts. She offered to let me taste them, but ihouo-h they smelled good, they diil not look inviting, and the place was too hot to stay in long; so I paid her bakshish and retired. It should be understood, of course, that no such investigation is undertaken without the payment of bakshish, and the visitor is very glad to pay, for it is in these unchanged customs of Bible times that one finds his ' constant commentary on the Bible itself. Most of the cooking in Palestine is done in the open air, and with all possible saving of fuel. Many houses have no fireplace. In the most severe weather a little fire is built, and the smoke finds its way out through a hole in the roof. I do not know whether the same fire is used for cooking. The people seem to eat most of their food cold. Our muleteers were constantly fishing food out of the interior of their cloth- ine, and after offering to share it with us, ate it as they walked along. We had a second visit at Cana on our return next day, and ate our lunch under the olive-trees near by. It was then that we saw most of the village. On the first day we stopped only for a brief rest, and then rode on toward the sea of Galilee. The scenery between Nazareth and Tiberias is less inter- esting at the outset than beyond Cana, but even from the first it was most attractive. The gradual lifting of the fog widened AMONG THE HILLS OF GALILEE 163 the horizon little by little, and in time revealed to us the glories of Galilee at their best. By the time the sun was well up, and the chill of the early morning gone, the fertile beauty of the plain of Esdraclon appeared. Wild flowers abound and display themselves in great abundance; the wheat-fields are waving in their springtime green ; and the landscape, THE VILLAGE OVEN though lacking trees, has many elements of beauty. The picturcsqucncss of the country increases as one leaves Cana and draws nearer the lake, and the country grows rougher till we reach the Mount of Beatitudes. Kurn llattin, which rises 1,135 feet above the sea, is alow, double-topped moun- tain, crf)wning an elevated plateau. Tradition gives this as the .scene of the Sermon on the Mount, and this may well be correct. On the plain just underneath this hill Saladin defeated the I'^'anks on the 3(1 and 4th of jiil\-. iiS;, and 1(^4 THK 1)1.1 ) WOK 1.1) IN illE NKW CENTURY tluMi-hy brouj^lu loan ciul {he powoi- oi the Latin or Cliristiaii kinj_;iloiu in Talrslino. It wa.s a rocky and waterless spot where Ciuy de l.usii;nan, C'hristian kin^ of jernsaU'ni, camped on the niL;ht of July 3. Already his men were practically surronntleil ; when the next da}^ they joined their final battle they were disheartened .mil disori;ani/.ed, and all but perishiiiij with the heat anil their L^reat thiist. By evening; their army was routed, their kini; a prisoner, and the Holy Cross the spoil of the intidel. Colonel Condor thus describes the battle: The sun in early hours, and in a treeless plain, is more terrible when its rays strike level at the face than even in midday, when the breezes liegin to blow. All that long morning the Christians marched, their heavy mail heated by the July rays, without water, without shade, without daring to halt for food. Raymond of Tripoli led the first division, and in the center the bishops of Acre and Eydda bore the wood of the True Cross. The Templars came in the rear. The light-armed Turks and Arabs hovered on the flanks, and harassed the army with their arrows. Thev fired the sun- scorched grass and stubble, and long tracks of flame swept across the plain, and smoke obscured the way, and parched the throats of the Chris- tians. In the afternoon they reached the village of Lubieli, standing on a limestone ridge, with a few olive and tig trees, but without a spring, and watered only from cisterns, which perhaps were dry- Nine miles of road they had traversed, and Hattin still lay two miles farther to the northeast. Furious assaults continued to be made upon them, and utterly exhausted, they halted for the night. They passed that night underarms, with smoke and fire around them, and saw at dawn the barren plain before them, and the enemy holding the springs. Many deserted and went out to beg for water from their foes, and one of these is said to have brought the news of the distress they suffered to Saladin. "Fall on them," he said; "they cannot help themselves; they are dead already!" The battle began at dawn, and the old Turkish tactics were repeated. Whenever tlie knights charged down, the horsemen fled, and turned upon them when disordered. Templars, Hospitalers, and bowmen fouglit on with desperate courage, but many of the footmen broke the ranks, and cast away their arms, fainting with tliirst and heat. The Moslem forces fell upon them, and half the army was slain and half was taken captive. The leaders, with only a hundred and fifty knights, gathered on the Horns of Hattin to protect the Cross, and strove to rally the flying army; but the arrows fell thick upon them, and the knights of Raymond of Tripoli raised the cry of " Sattve qui pcitf / " i\ni\ with his few followers, and I>alian of Ibelin, lie cut his way through the Turks, and brought the only remnant of the great army safe to Tyre. And so at length there were none left to fight, and the survivors of the little group on Hattin surrendered to Saladin. AMONG THE HILLS OF GALILEE 165 This was neither the first nor the last time this field was fought over. In April, 1799, the French, under Junot, fought heroically at Lubieh, close by, against the overwhelming forces of the Turks. Junot, who had already distinguished himself under Napoleon in Egypt, and there had been made general of brigade, at the head of three hundred cavalry here put to TIBEKIAS flight ten thousand Turks. It was one of the most brilliant episodes of the Napoleonic wars. One has brief time to recall these stirring memories here. The country, which has grown steadily more beautiful, needs now but one added feature to complete it, and of this the tourist has long been thinking, and for its first sight eagerly watching. At length he rounds the crest of the hill and comes in sight of the lake whose vision puts to flight all historic reflections save those associated with itself antl its immediate shores. T'or a long time as we lia\'e ridden we have been able to see the deep gorge that marks the Jordan valley — a gorge hewn out far below the level of the sea. The line of hills on the other side of Jordan show within what limits must lie the historic river and the lake from which it Hows. Now i66 THK Oil) WOKI.n IN IHK NKW CENTURY the lake appears, .uul .is we sit in the satklle ami liit ihe 174 THl". Ol.V \\OK\.\) IN llli: XKW CENTURY three cities wliicli Cliiist clencninced, because in them had been wrought his niii^htiest works and they had not beheved the truth. ha\e utterl\- x'anishetl, and we cannot be ([uite cer- tain of the site of any one of tlieni. Chorazin, Ik^thsaida, and Capernaum, whicli his work exalted unto heaven, have been cast down to destruction. We only know that the vari- ous ruins alon^ the shore mark the sites of those once populous towns, but which ruin denotes any given one of the three we do not know, and apparently cannot learn. Again our boatmen took the oars and started on the long homeward pull. They kept together by means of the rhythm of a song which they sung with exceedingly little variation in words or music. The burden of the latter was: " Henna gacl, henna, henna!" and the oars were pulled with the stroke on the heaviest accent. The song, as Shukrey interpreted it, had something to do with the use of henna as a pigment for painting the finger nails, and implied its use by a bride, the singer warning some one that he would become his implacable enemy if he brought the henna. After a while the wind rose, and we hoisted the sail and sped homeward before the breeze that rose as the sun declined. It came in capfuls and irregularly, unlike the stiff wind before which we had sped on our north- ern journey. So the men used the oars at intervals, but when the sail went up for the last time they leaned back and rested, and sang another song, in which they gave thanks to Allah, who had brought the good ship safe back to harbor again, and we went to our tents and to our dinner of Gennesaret fish, invigorated and rewarded by the experiences of the day. It requires no religious enthusiasm to invest with beauty the region about the Sea of Galilee. It is truly a beautiful country. There are few trees, and their absence is sorely felt ; yet here and there stand groves of olives with their grateful shade. The hills beyond arc barren, but those on the nearer side are fertile; some wave with grain, but in others the plow and the sower are busy, and along the way the wild- AMONG THE HILLS OF GALILEE 175 flowers are abundant and beautiful; so the setting has suffi- cient verdure and contrast to make the nearer view deh'ghtful. But when one takes it in its perspective, it grows upon one to the point of complete satisfaction, and the weary rider looks irom the blue lake below to the blue hills. beyond, and from the green fields at hand to the seared and snowy crest of Hermon, with its crown of glistening white, and cries in his own soul: "This is the Galilee of my imagination, but more beautiful ! This spot is worthy of all the sublime deeds which it witnessed when these hills and shores were trod by Jesus of Nazareth !" I cannot imagine why writers describe this scene so calmly, unless it is that, coming to it, as most of them do, from the long and dreary ride across the Samarian hills, they are fatigued beyond the power of enthusiasm. For myself, 1 have never read any description of the scene that seems at all adequate, and I am conscious how far short this hurried sketch must fall. But while many scenes in Palestine are picturesque, attractive, or of such historic interest as to stir one's emotions, this alone of all that I saw seemed to mc to deserve the adjective sublime. It combines every element of landscape beauty, of scenic grandeur, of varied color and of historic interest necessary to kindle the imagination and satisfy the ideal, and leave on the memory an indelible picture of the best that can be seen in Palestine. Jordan, when one comes near it, is a muddy stream, narrow and uninviting. Jerusalem, however imposing in the distance, is a filthy and commonplace town within. Other sacred spots are overgrown with superstition, or disgraced by cupidity, or defiled by unhal- lowed associations, but the Sea of Galilee lies, as it lay in Jesus' fjwn day, enshrined in the shores he trod, and sparkling in beauty such as gladdened his eye. it is the least spoiled and the most beautiful and sacred spot in i'alestine. The Sea of Galilee witnessed his mature deeds and sublime words, and its associations are more intimate with specific incidents in his life, while its varied pieturcsqueness appeals to the esthetic sense. To one with no religious intiiest, the scene 176 rilK OLD WORLD IN lllK NKW CENTURY is one of rare beaut}-; to one \\h(i has tliis interest also, it is sublime. 1 brought from tiiis spot one dee]i impression of the intlu- ence of Jesus on the lives of the men he met. 1 looked at our four swarthy boatmen, and tried to fit their features into gilt frames as apostles; I saw the fishermen washing their nets, and tried to imagine them with halos; and failing in this. I tried to make real to myself the transforming force that made such men as these same fishermen the preachers and teachers and evangelists of nineteen centuries. I am confident that no twelve fishermen now in Galilee could duplicate the Christian religion. THE WHARF AT TELL-HLM. PETEK, JAMES, AM) JOHN OF TO-DAY CHAPTER XII A RIDE THROUGH SAMARIA The most direct route from Nazareth through Samaria Hes by way of Jenin, Sebaste and Nablus. From Nazareth to Jenin the ride is seven hours, and it is seven farther to Nablus. For ordinary riding, it means two days, and in each day four hours in the morning and three in the afternoon. Here h'es the roughest part of the journey through the Holy Land. The road from Nazareth to Jenin lies across the plain of Jezreel, a plain of allu\ial limestone soil of great depth. One wonders where the people live who cultivate that great plain, for few houses appear, and the villages are far apart, and apparently small; but the people are in the villages, and go an hour, or two hours if necessary, to the field. Such a plain could be cultivated with modern machinery, but none is used. Caravans are less frequent here than toward Damascus; still they are met with occasionally. Those coming inward from the coast bear grain and kerosene oil. llic latter is in five-gallon cans, two cans in a box; and while some is from America, more comes from Russia. One sees these boxes oftener than any other empty cases in Palestine. Ohve oil is more expensive to burn, and petroleum is slowly making its way, though candles are still the staple light-producers. In many places one sees tlie Palestine maidens carrying water from the spring in their American or Russian cans. It is a strange twist of civilization by which the Yankee coal-oil can has dis- placed the ancient water-pot on the he. id of an old Old Testa- ment Rebecca of to-day. The roads across the plain of Jezreel are fairly good, except just after a rain, when they are almost impassable, or in times when the dust is bluwn !»}• hot winds. When the plain is 177 i;-"^ 11 IK OLD WORLD IN 1111, m:\\ ci:NruKY once crossed aiul tlu- hill}' ciMiiitiy hc-^ins. the roads become exceediiiLiiy difticult, and sonieliiues appear tlangerous. The \-illaL;e oi Nain lies luit far from the Nazareth road. It is a small, pocM' collection of huts, but one cannot ride through it without remembering the one scene in its history which has come down to us — the sad procession that came out of its gate bearing the body of the widow's son, and tlie glad return after Jesus hatl stoppetl the bier and called the young man back to life (^Luke 7: 1 1-15)- Near hv lies Shunem, where the Prophet Elisha had an occasional home (2 Kings 4: 8). Here lived the one woman whom the Bible calls "a great woman." These were the elements in her greatness: she was domestic, business- like, energetic and religious. It was she who established the prophet's chamber, and thus became a patron saint and proto- type of those w^ho practice religious hospitality. She was the mother of the child who suffered sunstroke, and whom the prophet restored to life and health. Here, also, lived the heroine of Solomon's song, who was a Shulamite. (Song of Solomon 6: 13). Perhaps no portion of Scripture has been so manifestly misinterpreted as this honeymoon song of the Bible, which becomes simply impos- sible as a religious allegory, but which is sweet and wholesome as a song of pure love. The Shulamite girl, taken to Jeru- salem and wooed by Solomon, who seeks her for his harem, remains true to her shepherd lover, whom, sleeping or waking, her steadfast heart seeks, and to whom at length, having shown herself proof against the blandishments of the rich old king, and the enticements of the women of his court, she is restored. The town itself is nothing to boast of, but the region about it is picturesque, and it is pleasant to visit a place associated with the memories of two such women as the dark but comely virgin of Canticles, and the womanly house- wife and mother who opened her doors for the prophet of old. By riding an hour farther on, one may visit Endor, where Saul consulted the witch on the night before the battle of Gilboa, in which he lost his life (i Samuel 28:7-20). A RIDE THROUGH SAMARIA 179 Eusebius, the father of church history, speaks of Endor as a large village in his day, but it is now a poor and wretched place. It is a pathetic memory, this of the close of Saul's life — a life full of strong elements and of strange inconsist- encies. The very man who had attempted to drive witch- craft from his kingdom found him- self constrained, when surrounded by the armies of his enemies, to seek the help of a witch; and he who had disregarded the advice of the living Samuel sought to ob- tain counsel from the shade of the dead prophet. Not far from Gilboa, on the left of the road, is Gideon's fount- ain, so called, where an unsup- ported tradition locates the scene of the lapping of Gideon's soldiers on their way to battle, as de- scribed in Judges vii. We soon came to a scene of undoubted genuineness. Zerin, with its mud wall and its thick growth of cactus, is the ancient Jezrecl. This was an important city of the northern kingdom in the days following the death of Saul, when Saul's son, Ishbosheth, was contending with David for the kingdom (2 Sam. 2:8-9). During the years when this strife continued, David reigned as king of Judah, and Ishbo- sheth held sway here over the northern tribes. Jerusalem was still in the hands of tiic Jcbusites. But David finally captured it, and established there the capital of the united kingdom. Here Ahab and Jezebel built their marble palace, and here occurred the murder of Naboth, that bloody deed, which KAKSIIISH 1 l8o llll'. (HA) WOK 1,1) IN rill. \i:\\ ckntukv for its trcacluM)- ami violation o( tlie ancient provision for the inalienability of the soil, so shocked the j)eople of Israel. The site of the vineyard of Naboth is still pointed out, though of course it is more conjecture; and the one tower-like struc- ture in the present village, very modern in its appearance, is shown to visitors as containing the window from which Jezebel was thrown down to be trampled by Jehu's chariot and left for dogs to eat. The dogs are still there, equal to any task like that they performed on Jezebel's body. The whole population streamed out and demanded bakshish. The one thing that children are good for in Palestine is begging. "Bakshish" seems to be the first word learned by any Palestine infant, and before he is old enough to say the word, he is used as a pretext for its employment by some older person. A woman who sees a tourist coming, and is herself so sturdy and vigorous as manifestly to be in no need of bakshish, catches up the first baby she can find and rushes upon the stranger. It is impossible to comply with all these requests, and hard to refuse or even to discriminate. One must give now and then at a venture for his own heart's sake, if for no other reason. But of one thing I am confident— the giving of bakshish is not the remedy for the poverty of the country. It has made nations of beggars in the Orient. I had here an illustration of the futility of indiscriminate almsgiving. We were riding through Jezreel, and dismounted in the middle of the forenoon at the site of Ahab's palace. I had a bottle of malted milk lunch tablets on my saddle, and began to distribute a few among the members of our party. A mother with a wan baby pressed near, and I gave her a few. Instantly I was surrounded by a mob of youngsters demanding the tablets. I gave them right and left till the bottle was empty. A snap-shot of the scene would have made a fine advertisement for the tablets. But this was the result — the strong fought the weak and secured their portion, and came up with one hand outstretched and the other behind them, begging for more. I left the whole juvenile portion of A RIDE THROUGH SAMARIA iSi Jezreel fighting and sobbing, and hastened away lest I should be arrested for attempting to poison the village. Thereupon I took thought and resolved not to indulge again in indis- criminate charity. Nevertheless I still pity the hungry multi- tude. They are as sheep without a shepherd, and it saddens l'L()\\IN{; IN PALESTINE Photograph by Mrs. F. B. Newell one to think that the land where Jesus lived and which he loved receives so little of the benefit which has come to the world from his life among men. There is some fertile country about Jezreel, though it becomes more hilK', and the farmers were plowing in the fields and on the hillsides. The plow is of the same primitive type used in Scripture days. llic plowman holds to the single handle, and when he has put his hand to the plow, he cannot well look back if lie intends to keej) the share in tlie furrow. 1^2 lllK Ol-n WOKl.D IN llll'. M:\V CEN'ITUN' It is as primitive an iniplcnu'iit as could well be devised, but is said to be well adapted to the soil. Recent immigrants who have imported plows of foreii^n manufacture have not been successful with their crops. Now and then, when the plain is broad, as in the valley of Jezreel, we found a number of vokes of oxen, each with its plow, following one another in their furrow, as they did when Elijah went to call Klisha and found him the last of the twelve. Rarely, but still occa- sionally, one sees an ox and an ass yoked together, in spite of the prohibition in the law of Moses (Deut. 22: lo). In the fields where the wheat is up, women are at work gathering out the tares; but this work must be done before the wheat is high, lest with the tares the grain also be uprooted. Almost every custom, as we observed it, vividly recalls some word of Scripture, and the tourist will, if he is wise, carry his Baedeker's "Palestine and Syria" in one pocket, and a reference Bible in the other, and will find himself constantly turning from one to the other. Charles Dudley Warner, in his book "In the Levant," pauses a moment in the midst of his Scripture references to say that the reader has doubtless discovered that the real purpose of the book is to compel those who read his descriptions to read the Bible. Certain it is that one cannot visit these scenes intelligently without con- stant reference to the Scriptures. We learn in a short time to accept our surroundings and forget the superfluous luxuries of other days, but sometimes an unexpected reminder of what we lack comes home with unutterable sadness. We dismounted one evening in Samaria, tired, hungry and thirsty, and started to refresh ourselves with the moderately cool water in the jars. "Oh, for an ice-cream soda!" exclaimed one young lady; and the rest with one voice cried out against her, as one who had forfeited the right to live. None of them had thought of it before, but no one could forget it afterward. The thought was as tantalizing as the sight of a boy sucking a lemon before the eyes of a little German band. For days afterward the other girls brought railing accusations against A RIDE THROUGH SAMARIA 183 this one of their number for her indiscreet reminder of an absent luxury. I am confident that, whatever the rest of the party did, every girl of the Samaria party made a rush for a soda fountain as soon as she escaped the custom-house in New York. Not all the principal villages of to-day are located on the sites of the ancient cities of Palestine. Jenin is an important camping-place, for the water is good, and there are open places near the town where tents may be pitched, and olive groves near by for shade. It is called in the Bible Engannim, or "garden spring" (Josh. 19: 21; 21:29). It is quite an important town, and the seat of government of a number of villages on the borders of Galilee and Samaria. It was a pleas- ant Sunday when we were there, and the governor of the vil- lage sent his son, a physician who had studied in the American ii.i.i:(.Ai. .\(.i WORLD IN THE NEW CENTURY If the throat Ixuly of people wlio remained in their own land could thus be assimilated b>- the immigrants, it is little won- der that the hand fid of exiles who were scattered in Assyria were absorbed into the population of that great empire. There probably is no literary fiction with a smaller historical basis than that of the so called lost ten tribes. In the time of the Maccabees, Samaria was again an impor- tant city. Its tnie location made it almost impregnable. As in Elisha's day it had held out long against the Syrians, until the people almost starved, and even had compelled the Assyrian army to spend three years in its capture, so it resisted the patriotic Jews under John Hyrcanus for a full year. It was rebuilt by Gabinius, the successor of Pompey, and was presented by Augustus to Herod. Herod changed the name. Omri had called it Shomeron, that is "the watch tower," the same as the German Wartburg. Herod named it Sebaste, the Greek for Augusta. The town of Herod probably covered the entire hill. There still remains a quadruple line of columns, following what was once the main street, to the length of a mile or more. This is the most extensive and interesting ruin which we saw anywhere in Palestine, and seems to offer a fine field for future exploration. At the end of the colonnade on the farther side of the hill is the site of the ancient gate of Samaria, where the lepers are supposed to have sat in Elisha's day (2 Kings 7:4). The poor fellows were, if possible, a little nearer starvation than the people of the city, and in their extremity resolved to go over to the Syrians, in hope that by some all but impos- sible impulse of mercy they might be permitted to escape alive. They found that the Syrians had fled in a panic, through the rumor of an alliance of the Hittites and Egyp- tians against them. They found the deserted camp with an abundance of provisions and at once fell to feasting. "Why sit we here until we die?" was the question which they had asked themselves when they made the desperate resolution to go to the camp of the besiegers; but now in the midst of their feasting they exclaimed, "We do not well; this day is a day THE ANCIENT SAMARITAN CITIES 191 of good tidings, and we hold our peace." And so they cut themselves short in their first selfish impulse to turn the dis- covery of the raising of the siege to their own advantage, and instead brought the good news to the people within the city. The people of modern Sebaste are ignorant and bigoted. They stand in their door as the tourists go past, making uncomplimentary remarks about them. One of the women ANCIENT SAMARIA OF T()-1)AV addressed to the ladies of our party a speech, which our dragoman thus interpreted: "You are fine ladies, and wear good clothes, while I have to work; but you ride on horseback ten days and are tired, while I will walk a hundred days and carry a burden and not be tired." She certainly told the truth; and it ma\' not be wondered at that she resented a little the better clothes of the Ameri- can women, or that she should desire to taunt tlicni with her own superior strength. u)-' rilK OLD WORLD IN llll. Ni:\\ CKNll KV Ruins of the splendor of ancient Samaria are scattered all about the modern vilhu;e, and here one may buy tear-bottles from the tombs, and copper coins of the Roman period. These are enoui^h cheaper than those at Jerusalem to make it pay one to carry a few. We are reminded that Samaria has a place in Christian history. Philip the Evangelist preached here (Acts 8:5^, and afterwards there was an important church here with a Greek bishop in charge. Jerome tells us that John the Bap- tist was buried here, and while that is far from being satisfac- tory evidence, it is quite enough to justify the pointing out of his tomb. With John are said to be buried P^lisha and Obadiah, who is referred to in 1 Kings 18: 3 as the governor of the house of Ahab who fed a hundred prophets of Jehovah during the time of Jezebel's fanatical persecution against them. These three tombs are in a crypt which may be seen by means of candles through the holes in the rock. It is a close, stuffy place with little to see. Above the tomb stands what was originally a Christian church, but is now a mosque. It is well built in solid Roman- esque style with Gothic arches in the apse. This church was erected by the Knights of St. John, in honor of the Baptist, whom they count their patron saint. It is one of the best speci- mens remaining of the architecture of the Crusaders. Here is a Moslem school, in which boys are taught to read the Koran and to work sums in arithmetic. Visitors are welcome to the school and may go about without much restriction, but of course must not touch copies of the Koran which are lying about. The little rascals are anxious to sell copies of their school work, in return for bakshish, and the teacher is willing to receive bakshish in exchange for some of the reed pens which he makes for the boys. We came down the hill from Sebaste, and finding the main roads bad, struck off through the fields, following one of the dragomen. The dragomen are perfectly lawless about cross- ing people's property, and have as great disregard for a green wheat-field as they have reverence for bread itself. If a Moslem THE ANCIENT SAMARITAN CITIES '93 finds a piece of bread in the road, he picks it up and rever- ently presses it to his forehead and lays it upon a stone by the wayside for the birds, saying as he does so, "We must not trample upon the gift of God." It is a beautiful thing to see this act of reverence on the part of the Mohammedans, which reminds us Americans that we are far from beinc: care- READING THK GOSPEL STORY AT JACOB'S WELL Photograph by Rev. Josiah Strong, D.D. ful in our use of the necessities of life. The same Moham- medan, however, has little regard for bread growing in the wheat-field, and gallops his horse through it on the slightest provocation. Turning through some olive orchards and across a cultivatctl plain, we wound up a hill, the steepest hill we had climbed, and by the side of a ravine the deepest that we skirled an\'\vhere in Samaria. The jjath was not intended for horses, and iiimy of our [)ait\- shuddered as they went near to the edge of the deep valley. We learned tiiat it had not i)een the intent of 194 im oi.n world in iiie nkw century the conductor that \vc sliould come this way, but that we had come througli the recklessness of one of the dragomen. After something of a ride through this broken country, we emerged into the great Damascus caravan road, and ahead of us lay Mounts Ebal and Gerizim. We turned our horses' heads toward the open between the two great hills, and moved along now with some rapidity over a really good road. On both sides of the way lay fertile fields, and here and there were olive groves. We saw one olive grove in which every tree had been girdled. We wondered at it, and asked one of the dragomen. He replied in the language of Scripture, "An enemy hath done this." In this we saw an evidence of the implacable spirit of revenge and hatred which lies deep in the hearts of these Syrian people. Some ancient conduits convey water from the hillsides, and there were women digging ditches in the fertile spots for irrigating purposes. A good many people met us in the road, and we had every indication that we were approaching an important center of population. Nablus, the ancient Shechem, is one of the most interest- ing places in the Bible, and one of the oldest of Palestine towns. Jacob bought a farm here from the children of Hamor and paid for it with a hundred pieces of money, and here he erected an altar, which he named ''God, the God of Israel" (Gen. 33:18-20). Afterward Jacob removed to Bethel, where he had erected his earlier altar to God; but he retained his possessions in Shechem and hid his treasures there (Gen. 35 : 4). After the Exodus, Shechem was the scene of many solemn assemblies. When the Israelites had crossed the Jordan and entered the land, the people stood divided, half upon Mount Gerizim and half upon Mount Ebal; the blessings of the law were read from Gerizim and the cursings from Ebal, and in response to each, the people said, "Amen." The cursings for the most part related to practical and wholesome duties. That man was cursed who scorned his father or his mother, or who removed his neighbor's landmark, or who caused the THE ANCIENT SAMARITAN CITIES 195 blind to wander from the way, or who perverted the judgment of the stranger, the fatherless, or the widow, or who worked anything abominable or unclean, or who smote his neighbor secretly, or who took reward to slay an innocent person ; while the blessings pronounced on those who should continue in the words of the law of God were full of beauty and of hope (Deut. xxvii, xxvdii, and Josh. 8: 32-35). Again Joshua gathered the nation together at Shechem before his death, and in the most solemn manner called upon the people to choose between God and Baal, and there pro- claimed his own steadfast loyalty to the God who had brought them out of Egypt. One feels the solemnity of these memo- ries as he rides between the two great mountains. Along this highway has wound the procession of the ages. This was a sacred spot as far back as the dawn of history. The people of Nablus are largely Moslems, and are fanati- cal and quarrelsome. Commercially, the town seemed the most important we had found in Palestine, and the streets were far more attractive than those of the villages that we had left just behind, but the people were unfriendly, and either ignored us entirely or tried to sell us articles at high prices, or muttered imprecations at us. Nablus is not as good a place to make advantageous purchases as the smaller villages to the north, though one has a greater variety to choose from, and more competition, and the bazaars possess that interest which all Oriental shops display to the bargain-hunting tour- ist. One can buy nearly anything there which can be found anywhere in central Palestine. Many of the streets are entirely arched over with houses built above them. These make dark tunnels through which one must pass in going from place to place. Not far from the tomb of Joseph is the village of Sychar, where the woman lived with whom Jesus talked beside the well. The modern name is 'Asker, and it has little to recom- mend it in its present condition e.xcept a good spring. The presence of this spring is the only thing that causes an\- doubt about the genuineness of the \'illage; for why, some scholars 196 -nil-: oiA) woKi.i) IN iiiK Ni:\\ centuky ask. should tlic woman have gone past so good a spring to draw water at Jacob's well, which is farther away? Perhaps this was not the village after all; let us hope so. Jacob's well is one of the most interesting spots in all Palestine. Of its genuineness there seems no reasonable doubt. It is fully described in "Robinson's Researches," and in almost every modern treatise on Palestine. It is bored through the solid rock, and is covered with an arch, above which stood a church built in the fourth century. It is nine feet in diameter, and its depth is variously estimated. I drank of the w^ater, and found it good. Here we assembled and read the account of the Lord's journey through Samaria, and how he talked with the woman by the well, and told her of the water of life. It is the one place in all Palestine where we are able to say, "Here our Lord sat." The Greeks have possession of the place now, and it is inclosed with a wall, and a garden under cultivation seemed to exhibit signs of more extensive improvements in prospect. About the well itself, how^ever, are only ruins of the old church, and I hope that it will be a good while before much building is done about the place. Beyond Nablus, toward Jerusalem, and near to Jacob's well, lies the reputed tomb of Joseph. It is an ordinary Moslem tomb, with a rounded top, neither more nor less interesting than those of its class. It is in the care of dervishes who never speak. There are many kinds of dervishes, howling dervishes, wailing dervishes, and I know not how many kinds besides; the dumb dervish is rather an interesting variation. Prohibited from using their tongues, however, these dervishes devote themselves to literature and produce written charms, to avert the evil eye. The "evil eye" is a real and terrible thing in Palestine superstition. The man who with a glance can do you harm may loom above the horizon at any moment. Wherefore, it is well that there should be numerous antidotes for his influence. These abound, in blue beads to tie around the horses' necks, and in various charms and medals worn by the people; but a written prescription from the tomb of THE ANCIENT SAMARITAN CITIES 197 • • ; 5 -^^ - '_ t-Mc Joseph is supposed to possess special sacredness, and I am very glad to have a copy of the genuine article. Although he did not speak, the dervish found means of indicating that he was not above accepting money as a return for the pre- scription, and I left him well pleased over the sum which I gave him. I think I got my money's worth, for I saw all manner of evil eyes in Palestine, and have brought away no visible marks of their malign influence. If we could know that this is really Joseph's tomb, it would in- deed be an interesting spot to us, for Joseph's body was brought up from Egypt in obedience to his own request and buried in this place. If this is not the tomb, then at least the tomb is near here. What a funeral procession this man Joseph had! There is none like it in history. The children of Israel were making their hasty flight from Egypt. There were years of wan- dering before them, and behind was a pursuing army. They were carrying as much as possible of their own belongings, and were further encumbered by those contributions, by which they were hoping to make good something of the unrequited labor of four hundred years. They had flocks and herds also, and each man besides his care for his (n\ii household had responsibility for the common subsistence and defense. Yet, in their haste of flight and excessive burden, they found time and strength for an added load. The body of Joscj)!!, buried more than a century before, they had exhumed, and now carried with them. •Z'. •^•>>. CIIAKM FOR "EVIL EVE" 19S rilK OLD WORLD l.\ LUE NEW CENIT'RY The record is eloquent, because it is a witness to human fidelit\' extending over centuries. And loseph tocik an oalli of tlic rliildron of 1si;k'1, saying, God will surely visit you, and ye sliall carry up my hones from hence. So Josepli died.lieiuii a hundred and ten years old: and they emhalmetl him, and he was pui in a coffin in Egypt. They put him in a collin in F>!^ypt, and they did not for- get him. Being dead, he yet spoke to them in his dying request, and the memory of liis children's pledge was the best promise of an escape from Egypt. II is body lay in some almost royal tomb, but through the years that intervened between his death and the Exodus, his soul went marching on. Lone before Moses was born, the dying words of Joseph uttered a prophecy of deliverance from bondage. When the yoke pressed sore upon the shoulders of his people, they remembered that Joseph had charged them concerning the land of promise. When they were making bricks without straw, they remembered that the grand sarcophagus where Joseph lav was only a temporary habitation for a body that could have no final resting-place save in the land that was his father's, and was to be his children's. The ancients spoke of their sages of the past, and said of them that, "They rule us from their urns." So the dead body of Joseph ruled during the long, cruel period of oppression before Moses came; the spirit of him who had been prime minister still held sway, though the new Pharaoh and his dynasty knew not Joseph. King after king lived and died. Rameses I and Seti, and Rameses the Great, the kings of Egypt's nineteenth dynasty, were embalmed and laid to rest, each in his richly decorated mausoleum near the banks of the Nile. Far down the river Joseph's body rested, and the mighty hope which had been his for his people continued, though almost despairing, like a smothered fire in the hearts of the children of Israel. We lose sight of Joseph's body after the Red Sea is crossed. A whole generation died and left their bones in the wilderness. Joseph's body might have been buried with these, for why should the whim of a dead man be held sacred THE ANCIENT SAMARITAN CITIES '99 Joseph's tomb through the vicissitudes of forty years? Yet, when Jordan is also passed, when Jericho is fallen, when the people of the land have been driven out, and Israel finds rest in the land prom- ised to Abraham, we find a single verse which tells the whole story of forty years: And the bones of Joseph, which the children of Israel brought up out of Egypt, buried they in Shechem, in the parcel of ground which Jacob bought of the sons of Hamor the father of Shechem for a hundred pieces of numey: and they became the inheritance of the children of Joseph (Josh. 24:32). Joseph might have had a splendid tomb and monument in Egypt. Pyramids, already hoary with age, were there testifying to the high esteem in which the noble dead were held in the land of the Nile. ilis sepulclu-r might have been among them, but it was not. It was his determination never to let his people rest in Elgypt or in the wilderness which made his bones re.stless in their Egyptian tomb. At scores (if times in the forty years of desert march and sojourn, the i|uery of the h'ving was, ^oi> THl. ol.n WDUl.D IN IIIK NEW CKNTl'KY wlu'lhcr it was worth while to march on. Mach well in the wilderness with its oasis was an inx'itation to leniain. I'lach space of i;i-ass for their llocks raised anew the cjuestion of farther progress; but besides Moses, with his inflexible will, there was a silent member of the conipan}-, whose voiceless protest against content with the wilderness could not be gain- said or argued down. They might make homes for them- selves there, but where would they bur}- the body of Joseph? For him there was no resting-place short of Canaan, and hence no home for his children. Thus Joseph's dying request became an eloquent testimony to his own faith in the deliverance of his people: an effective estoppel against content in Kgypt or the wilderness; and a powerful incen- tive to the fulfilment of the hope which he cherished for the nation. Well may that nation honor the tomb of Joseph! Nablus is a corruption of Neapolis, and means "the new city." The old city was Shechem. Besides the events which we have been recalling, there is another chapter of history which deserves our recollection. After the fall of Samaria, in 722 B C, the country had a period of troublous and unsettled conditions. The Assyrian monarch, weary of the constant outbreaks and rebellions which had vexed him in this region, determined to obliterate every vestige of its political life by transporting its influential people into other provinces of his kingdom, and bringing into the country immigrants in sufficient numbers to change the char- acter of the population. There were not enough of them in any one place to have any national life of their own, and they were probably people who had made trouble where they had been. Doubtless, also, they were as homesick in Palestine as the Israelites were in Babylon. At the outset they had little commercial prosperity, and did not succeed on the rough farms where they were placed. The waste places grew larger in spite of them, and the wild beasts increased in numbers and ferocity. They attributed these disasters to the fact that "they knew not the manner of the God of the land," and THE ANCIENT SAMARITAN CITIES 201 they sent a pathetic request to Esar-liaddon, king of Assyria, saying : The nations which thou hast removed, and placed in the cities of Sama- ria, know not the manner of the God of the land: therefore he hath sent lions among them, and, behold, they slay them, because they know not the manner of the God of the land (2 Kings 17: 26). The Assyrian king, who cared Httle for the rehgion of his provinces so long as tributes were regularly paid, caused one of the Hebrew priests to be sent back to reestablish the wor- ship of Jehovah. He set up a shrine at Bethel, and the old worship was resumed with modifications, in which survived the essential characteristics of their various former religions. They feared the Lord, and served their own gods, after the manner of the nations whom they carried away from thence (2 Kings 17: 33). It is a very remarkable narrative contained in this chapter, showing how the worship of Jehovah survived in many and strange forms in that portion of the land where always there had been much latitude in the form of religious observance. For nearly two hundred years this system, or congeries of systems, prevailed; and when Assyria and Babylon gave place to Persia, and Zerubbabel and his companions returned from Babylon, in 537 1^. C, this people were quite ready for any new modifications of their religious system which the newly returned exiles might have to suggest. They sent their repre- sentatives to Jerusalem, saying: Let us build with you: for we seek your God, as ye do; and we do sac- rifice unto him since the days of Esar-haddon king of Assur, which brought us up hither (Ezra 4:2). This was a courteous, and doubtless a well-intended request, but it was scornfully rejected. Zerubbabel and Jcshua saw in it a peril to the pure faith which they had come to reestablish: moreover, they had confidence in the con- tinued help of Cyrus antl the favor of Jehovah, and were perilously self-reliant, so they answered: Yc have nothing to do with us to build an house unto our God; but we ourselves together will build unto the Lord God of Israel, as king Cyrus the king of Persia hath commanded us (Ezra 4: 3). 202 rilK OLD WORLD IN I'llL NLW CLNIURV There is no reason to suppose tli.it these representatives of the \arious faiths that worshiped Jehoxali were confined to Samaria. Tn^lialilN- by tliis time they had scattered them- selves pretty well over the land, for Judah had long since met the fate of the northern kingdom, in the fall of the temple and of Jerusalem, in 586. lUit the center of this mixed wor- ship was at Bethel, ami it had been longer established in the northern than in the southern portion of the land, so Samaria was its natural field of operation. Disappointed in their attempt to make friends with the newlv returned exiles, and with some reasonable fear lest their haughtiness and confidence in the exclusive protection of Jehovah boded ill for themselves, the Samaritans sent a dele- gation to the court of Cyrus to frustrate the purposes of the colonists in Jerusalem. The story is told succinctly in Ezra 4:4-6. Then the people of the land weakened the hands of the people of Judah, and troubled them in building, and hired counselors against them, to frus- trate their purpose, all the days of Cyrus king of Persia, even until the reign of Darius king of Persia. And in the reign of Ahasuerus, in the be- ginning of his reign, wrote they unto him an accusation against the inhabi- tants of Judah and Jerusalem, This is one of the most interesting stories in Old Testa- ment history, and one not very familiar to ordinary Bible readers, but it is told with great precision, even to the names of the lobbyists, and it is evident that the lobby was main- tained for fifteen or eighteen years. The arguments which they used are given in full. The Jews had returned, not to build a temple, but to construct a fort. Their real ambition was political independence. If they succeeded in construct- ing a walled city they would cease to pay tribute. The king had only to search the records of his predecessors to find how troublesome Jerusalem had always been. Its destruction had come about through its incorrigible sedition. If now the city were rebuilt, it would result in the ultimate wresting of the entire province from Persia. Their letter to Artaxerxes is as follows : THE ANCIENT SAMARITAN CITIES 203 Be it known unto the king, that the Jews which came up from thee to us are come unto Jerusalem, building the rebellious and the bad city, and have set up the walls thereof, and joined the foundations. Be it known now unto the king, that, if this city be builded, and the walls set up again, then will they not pay toll, tribute, and custom, and so thou shalt endamage the reve- nue of the kings. [We request] That search may be made in the book of the records of thy fathers: so shalt thou find in the book of records, and know that this city is a rebellious city, and hurtful unto kings and prov- inces, and that they have moved sedition within the same of old time: for which cause was this city destroyed. We certify the king that, if this city be builded again, and the walls thereof set up, by this means thou shalt have no portion on this side the river (Ezra 4: 12-16). This letter told essentially the truth. Independence was exactly what the Jews were striving for, and the Persian kings, to whom all this ancient history was new, gave the letter due consideration, and forbade the rebuilding of Jerusa- lem. It was not until there came another revolution in Persia that the Jews had opportunity to continue their work. With the rebuilding of Jerusalem, Judah became more firmly established in the worship of Jehovah, and doubtless the Samaritan worship declined. The people of the land began to intermarry with the Jews, and Nehemiah, who came on later, employed drastic measures to break up these com- promising unions. At this time, Manasseh, a priest, having married a Samaritan princess, refused to leave his wife, and was expelled from Jerusalem. Nehemiah tells the story: And one of the sons of Joaida, the son of Eliashib the high priest, was son in law to Sanballat the Horonite: therefore I chased him from me (Neh. 13: 28). The father-in-law of the deposed priest, Sanballat by name, built for his son-in-law a temple on Mount Geri/.ini, where from this time on the Samaritans had their own worship. This is a most interesting piece of history, and gives us the origin of a sect that still exists in Nablus, the ancient Shcchcm. The Samaritans took with them the Pentateuch, which they recognized as the one inspired law. It is practically identical with the Jewish Pentateuch, but the Ten Command- ments are consolidated into nine, and the tenth is added in a 2o\ TllK ol.l) WUKl.l) IN I Hi: M:W CKNTIKV verso taken from htut. -'7:4, with l^hal changed to Geri- zim. so making the command to establish a pkice of worship on Mount (^icri/im one of the lY-n Commandments. Thus they prove that all worship centering in Jerusalem is heretical, and b\- changing Jerusalem to Geri/.im in the Pentateuch, prove that the latter is the one authorized place for the wor- ship of Jehovah. Manasseh had Sanballat behind him to enforce the new form of worship as the state religion, and as it was still the worship of Jehovah, it was readily adopted by the people of the middle and northern parts of Palestine. It is hard to see what else they could have done, if they were to worship Jehovah at all, since they were prohibited from having any share in the worship at Jerusalem. The two sects lived side by side in their two little capitals of Shechem and Jerusalem. One had its Gerizim and the other its Zion, and each had its only genuine law of Moses, Each could prove the other utterly wrong by its own Penta- teuch, and there was abundant higher criticism in each sect to show just where the other had tinkered with the text. Modern scholarship has never had the slightest doubt regard- ing the matter, for the changes in the Samaritan texts are so glaringly unhistorical as not be open to any reasonable doubt. However, it was easy enough in that day to prove to the full satisfaction of the people of Samaria that theirs was the only authorized edition of the Books of Moses. This hot discussion had gone on for four and a half centu- ries at the time of Jesus' ministry, and still the Jews had no dealings with the Samaritans. It was a direct rebuke to Jewish narrowness when Jesus chose a Samaritan as the hero of his parable of the man falling among the thieves. More than once in his works of healing he showed how little sym- pathy he had with the old historic quarrel. Still, he was ready to affirm that the Samaritans worshiped they knew not what, and that salvation was from the Jews, who had preserved in its historic continuity the worship of Jehovah. When Jesus was passing through Samaria, he was some- times refused shelter by its inhabitants, but he was ever kind THE ANXIENT SAMARITAN CITIES 205 to them. He sat on Jacob's well, and talked to the woman there, and she propounded to him the old test question : Our fathers worshiped in this mountain; and ye say, that in Jerusalem is the place where men ought to worship (John 4: 20). The question was more than four hundred years old then; it is nineteen hundred years older now, but still it is the test ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^H j'pit "^ H - l^Wm ^^^^^B^K)[i-K_ m ^*. '■ ~ 1- - 1' %, ^^M Sill • • . '. ■> ^^B * ' M^^^l ** ^^^^E t M\ 1 i ^V^l^ . ~ YAKOB, SAMARITAN UK. II I'KlliST question between the Jews and the followers of the deposed priest Manasseh. The following account of the holy manuscript of Nablus is copied from Smyth's "The Old Documents and the New Bible." It had often l)ecn noiiccd witli some curiosity, especially at the Ivefor- Miation times, in the disputes about the Hebrew I5ible, that in the works of certain old fathers, Origan, and St. Jerome, and I'.uscbius the historian, and 2o6 rilK OLD WORLD IN lllL NLW CKNTURY others, there were references to "the ancient Melirew according to tlie Sa- maritans," as disiin.miished from the "Hebrew according to the Jews," and notes made of certain discrepancies existing between them. What could these references mean? No oni' in Kuro])c knew anything about a Samari- tan Hebrew. Was it merely an error of those ancient fathers, or did there somewhere exist a Hebrew 15ible differing from that whicli had come down to us through the Jews? As time went on, and nothing was discovered about it, it gradually be- gan to be forgotten, or relegated to the region of ancient fiction, until one day early in the seventeeth century when Hililical students were startled by the announcement that a copy of this mysterious document had arrived in Europe, having been discovered by a traveler among the Samaritans of Damascus. It was a very venerable-looking manuscript, written in the unfamiliar ancient Hebrew letters, and for that reason at first very difficult to read. Soon afterwards another copy was found in Egypt, but was captured by pirates, with the slu'p that was bringing it to Europe. Before 1630 Arch- bishop I'ssher had obtained six, others, and now there are altogether about sixteen Samaritan manuscripts in the European libraries. The most famous copy in existence is the Synagogue I\oll at Nablus, where the Samaritans, now but a few hundred in number, still cling to the ancient seat of their race. It is guarded with the most sacred care, and never exhibited even to their own people, except on the great Day of Atone- ment. A few Europeans have, however, managed to get a sight of it, and from their accounts we learn that writing which seems very old is on the hair side of skins twenty-five inches by fifteen— according to the Samaritan account, the skins of rams offered in sacrifice. The manuscript is worn very thin, even into holes in many places, and it is a good deal messed, as if with ink spilled over it, so that a large part is almost illegible. It is kept in a cylindrical silver case, ornamented with engravings of the Tabernacle and its furniture, and the whole is wrapped in a gorgeously embroidered cover of red and gold. The Samaritans assert that it is nearly as old as the days of Moses. They say— and one Russian traveler asserts that they are right— that an inscription runs through the middle of the text of the Ten Commandments: I ABISHUA, SON OF PHINEHAS, SON OF ELEASAK, SON OF AARON THE PRIEST— UPON THEM BE THE GRACE OF JEHOVAH 1 TO HIS HONOUR HAVE I WRITTEN THIS HOLY LAW AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE TABERNACLE OF TESTIMONY ON MOUNT GERIZIM, BETH EL, IN THE THIRTEENTH YEAR OF THE TAKING POSSESSION OF THE LAND OF CANAAN. PRAISE JEHOVAH ! The inscription, however, has been looked for since, but in vain. With- out entering too minutely into the question, all that we need say here is, that if it is or ever was in the manuscript, it does not deserve the slightest credit. (Pp. 118 120.) THE ANCIENT SAMARITAN CITIES 207 The claim of such antiquity is indeed preposterous, but scholars believe this codex to be nearly if not quite as old as the Christian era. Our oldest texts of the New Testament ^o>/rT»A>/A/Afiu«„ ent high priest, standing be- side the ancient scroll. The manuscript is fifteen inches wide, and must be more than a hundred feet in length. It is wound on two rolls, inclosed in a silver case, double hinged at the back, so that it may be opened and shut. /Tkp-A.v lyz-^Aqr^r^WASvC-Kprnw •^-n^.o. p:^^a:^ ;-,.^>»/^a/a/a/ 3v LEAF FROM OLD SAMARITAN MANUSCRIPT I do not know the number of skins which it contains, but a Hebrew Pentateuch, which I purchased in Jerusalem, formerly used in a synagogue there, contains the skins of fifty-two rams. The attendants at the Nablus synagogue sell little tin facsimiles of the case with brief extracts from the texts inside, in imitation of tlie origi- nal. They also sell little manuscript books in tin- quaiiU old characters, entirely illegible to the ordinary Hebrew scholar. The dialect differs little from their I'alestine Aramaic. The character is an independent development of the oltl Hebrew writing as it was wlun the Samaritans first got tluir I'liita- 2o8 lllK OLD WOKl.n IN rilK NKW Cl'-NlU R Y touch, and is vcrv unlike the square Hebrew characters familiar to modern stutlents. I was veiy greatly interested in these old manuscripts, and tried to have some conversation with the priests about them, but we were unable to speak many words in each other's tongue. I obtained one of the little square bound booklets containing seventy-one pages of the manuscript. The book is about three by four and one-half inches in size, and the writing covers about two and one-eighth by three inches on each page, and is ruled in with red and blue pencil. The writing is done with the regular Syrian pen. I also procured a complete page of a very old manuscript, and a fragment of their parchment much older still, how old I can only conjec- ture. The page reproduced will show the general style of characters employed. I bought these with some eagerness, and I suppose the purchases indicated to the priests that I was likely to be inter- ested in something more extensive; so while the others of our party were examining the synagogue, I followed the beck of one of the younger of the priests, who took me through the court of the synagogue and the connecting court of the high priest's house, and up an outer stair into an upper room. The women of the household ran in as if suspecting the young priest of some unlawful design, and made vehement protesta- tions against what they judged he was about to do. He drove them out, barred the door and drew from under the bed a modern copy of the ancient Pentateuch in a long double roll. He demanded a fabulous price for this, and for a time I was wholly unable to get his measure of value, but the word "bun," I discovered at length, meant English pound, and he wanted a good many of them for the manuscript. I offered him smaller sums, and took out the money. He looked at the gold with some eagerness, but emphatically refused. He produced a tin case, a crude facsimile of the silver case below, in which the manuscript belonged. When it became evident that we could not come to terms, he brought out another and shorter roll of the same width. I judged it to be one of the THE ANXIENT SAMARITAN CITIES 209 five books, and succeeded in getting from him the information that this was *'B'reshith," the Hebrew title of the book of Genesis, and its opening words, "In the beginning." He offered this for the gold which I had in my hand, and I agreed, upon condition that he should include the case. After a good deal of bargaining, he consented, and putting the book of Genesis into the case handed it to me, but indicated by signs that I must put it under my coat and not be seen leaving the synagogue with it. It was too large to put under my coat, and so he put it under his flowing robe, and hastened down the stairs with it and into one of the dark, overarched streets, darker now by reason of the fast-approaching dusk. Here, with every air of mystery, he handed over the case, and I paid him the gold. Twilight is very brief in Syria, and the night comes rapidly when once the sun is down. I was at the upper end of the city, and had not as yet seen our camp, nor did I know its exact location. All our party had gone back, and the drago- men with them, for my negotiating had been of long duration. If ever there was a labyrinth on earth, it is Nablus in the twilight. The streets are short and crooked, and end in blind alleys that lead to nowhere; and the dark tunnels are not inviting-looking places even at midday. One loses all sense of direction in winding about, and I found it quite impossible to distinguish a single landmark which I had seen on my way to the synagogue. I think I returned by a wholly different way. My only guide was the slope of the ground. I knew that the streets gradually descended toward the place where we had left our horses on their way to the camp. Some of our people passing through the streets that after- noon had stones thrown at them, or were otherwise insulted; and I attracted a good deal of attention passing through in the twilight with a large tin manuscript case in my arms. I could not ask directions, but I was not molested, and found my way at length to the point where we had entered the city, and then followed the road to the farther side of Nablus, where it wound between the mountains, and so came upon our camp. ::io rili; OLD WORLD IN LllK NKW CKNirKV llappx" as I was to ha\c niatlr this purchase, I coukl not help regrettiiii; that 1 still had only a fragment, though a complete book, of the ancient text. Hut the next morning brought me good fortune, (^ne of the other young priests, as I suppose him to be, whom 1 had seen in attendance at the synagogue the day before, came early to the camp and sought me out. He had brought under his robe the same manuscript which had been offered me the night before, and now at a considerably cheaper rate. Kven then it took a good while to make the bargain. Such transactions proceed slowly in Palestine; but after a time we came to terms, and he went back to the synagogue with some more British gold and I went on with my cherished purchase. I rolled up the manuscript in cloth, and wrapped the case and all in my steamer rug, and so conv^eyed it to Jerusalem, where I packed it and sent it home. The picture which I present shows the manuscript in its case, and the book of Genesis partially unrolled beside it. Like the original codex, these scrolls are fifteen inches wide, and the one containing the Pentateuch is one hundred and six feet long. It shows some signs of use, and in one place has been worn in two, but without damage to the text. It is, of course, entirely modern, but I doubt not is a faithful copy, and has been used in the ©facial worship of this ancient, interesting sect. When Dr. Robinson was in Palestine in 1838, he asked the priest wdiat sum would buy a copy of the Pentateuch, and was told, "Fift}' thousand piastres"; that is, two thousand five hundred dollars. Again, in 1852, he was courteously received by the Samaritan priests, who offered to dictate their commentary to an interpreter, but refused to sell a copy of the Pentateuch itself for any sum whatever. Dr. Robin- son adds, "Perhaps the time will come when the offer of a high price will remove their scruples." I do not know any reason why the Samaritans should observe secrecy in the selling of such a manuscript. Their sect is very small, and their tithes are insufficient to support the high priest and maintain their school. It would seem to THE ANCIENT SAMARITAN CITIES 21 I me an honorable and worthy thing for them to announce that they were ready to sell copies of their Pentateuch, and devote the proceeds to the maintenance of their school. However, the transfer was effected with great show of secrecy, real or pretended, and the air of mystery added much to the zest of the ac- quisition. After my return from Palestine, I chanced to notice in "Innocents Abroad" a sentence which stated that Mark Twain when there had procured from the high priest of this ancient Samaritan com- munity, "at great ex- pense, a sacred docu- ment of great antiquity and extraordinary in- terest," which, said Mark Twain, "I pro- pose to publish as soon as I have finished trans- hitingit." Wondering if Mr. Clemens had any experience similar to my own, I wrote to him, asking him whether lie also had a Samaritan Pentateuch, and have received his reply, stating tliat he liad not seen a copy of "Innocents Al^road" for many years, and that all recollection of buying the manu- script referred to has entirely passed from his mind. I pre- sume that what he bought was some of the smaller souvenirs, as he could hardly have forgotten a purchase like mine. The Samaritan community keeps up this worship not onI\' > dll SAMARITAN PENTATEUCH AND GENESIS (Purchased by the author at Nablus) 21:: THE OLD WOKl.l) IN lllK Ni:\\ CEMURY in the synagogue in the city at the foot of Mount Gcrizim, but also at stated seasons ujioii tlie summit, especially at pass- over time, when the entire comiiumity spends several days in the camp, and the white lambs, roasted in the pit, are eaten by the whole company, with a literal obedience to the regula- tions commanded in the book of Exodus, which the Jews had outgrown even in Christ's time. It is the only place on earth where this has been done uninterruptedly since the time of Christ. The community is now very small, and is diminish- ing. The policy of forbidding intermarriage with other nations has resulted in the gradual diminution of the sect. There are only about one hundred and sixty-five people who now profess this faith, and they expect to continue a distinct body until the Messiah comes, which, according to their computation, will be six thousand years after the creation, or near the end of the next century. Their present lack in the community is marriageable young women. It is possible that I shall win some one's life-long gratitude by this announcement. ■jtit'*^*^*- '' ^Am,^, JACOB S WELL CHAPTER XIV SHILOH AND BETHEL "He must needs go through Samaria." How often we thought of the passage! Jesus several times came and went this way between Jerusalem and Nazareth or Capernaum, Weary, travel-stained and thirsty, he trod this same rough road as he journeyed to and fro. We also went through Samaria, and came into Judaea, whose principal tribe was Judah, the tribe of the lion. Shepherds were about us keeping their sheep on these rocky hillsides as Joseph's brethren kept theirs here. Along the way we saw shepherds carrying lambs upon their shoul- ders; here, too, I saw one with the heads of two little kids projecting from his bosom, and I remembered the words of the prophet concerning the Good Shepherd: He shall feed his flock like a shepherd: lie shall gather the lambs with his arm, and carry them in his bosom, and shall gently lead those that are with young (Isaiah 40: 11). Palestine villages are much alike inside. There is a spring or well in or near the village, and this is the social center and fountain of life of the town. The houses are fiat, contiguous, and without windows in the rear, so that they form some pretense of a wall, which often is pieced out with hedges of cactus. Through the center of the town runs a little narrow street — dusty in dry weather, muddy in wet weather, and dirty in all weathers. Upon the roofs of the houses are bundles of fagots drying for use in the ovens, and piles of less pleasant fuel arc often stored with llicm. The houses are one story high; the better ones of stone, antl the poorer ones of mud. The roofs are nearly flat, and arc used as a resting- place in the evening, and as points of observation at other times. They are made of earth or ccnuMit. and one passes 213 214 'nil' ol.n WORLD IN INK M:\V CKNITIUY easily from roof to roof. The little courtyards are uninvit- iiii;". Poverty is written large over the face of thiiijjs. The tourist cannot see what the people live on, although when he passes along the roads and sees the comparatively large fields and no people in them, he wonders where are the men that till them. It is the exceptional thing to see a man employed. The women and children are all beggars, and it is just as well "WHEN HE PUTTETH FORTH HIS OWN SHEEP, HE GOETH BEFORE THEM " that tourists do not understand all that they say about the visitors. The villages are so huddled, and the streets so narrow and crooked, that one can rarely obtain a photograph of an interior; but I found in Jerusalem such a photograph, with enough of open space in it to show something of the construc- tion of the village. The picture bears no name, but I think I recognize the village as Turmus 'Aya, and from this one all may be judged. Jerusalem was not the first place in Palestine where a national sanctuary was located. Shiloh was one of the most ancient shrines of Palestine. It is a ruin now, but here stood the temple of Jehovah in the days when Samuel ministered SHILOH AND BETHEL 21 before Eli, and heard the voice of God. That is a beauti- ful story in itself, and beautiful also as an introduction to the history of Samuel, the last of the judges, and, with Moses and Nehemiah, one of the three greatest statesmen of Israel. There is little to see in Shiloh now but ruins, and these A TYPICAL SAMARITAN VILLAGE are not very extensive. Some catastrophe had befallen the place in Jeremiah's time, as is recorded in Jeremiah 7: 14; 26:6. Jerome refers to the place, but it was a ruin in his day. It was at Shiloh that the annual festivity occurred at which the Henjaminites stole their wives, as tolil in judges xxi. The field is still pointed out where the dance took place. It ought not to he liard to identify this, for the direc- tions for finding tlie place are very explicit. The men of the other tribes had sworn, saying, "Cursed be lie that giveth a wife to Benjamin." They afterward regretted this oath, but could not prove false to it, so they connived at the wife-steal- l6 riiK iM.n woKi.i) IN rill'. ni:\v centtrv iiii^, aiul tolil the ^•(Mln_^ nu-n just wIktc the dancini^" would take place. And they said, Behold, there is a feast of the Lord from year to year in Shiloli, which is on tlie north of Heth-el, on the east side of the high way tliat goctli up from Hetli-cl to Shechem, and on the south of Lebonah (Judircs 21: IQ). Any cntcrprisiiiL;- }-oung man could have found the place with directions so explicit. We had come from Shechem and THE SITE OF SHILOH were on our way to Bethel. We had eaten our lunch at the desolate hamlet of Lebonah, and if there had been any festiv- ity on the east side of the highway toward Shiloh, we could have found it. The young men of Benjamin followed directions. The maidens came and danced according to their custom, and the young men, lying in the vineyards awaiting favorable opportunity, each ran out and stole a wife, and ran home with her. The account ends with the apologetic state- ment that, "In those days there was no king in Israel: every man did that which was right in his own eyes" (Judges 21 : 25). We really need these old-time romances to brighten up the SHILOH AND BETHEL 217 present desolation of the region. It is stony now and life- less. The visitor rides up to Shiloh through a narrow lane between rough stone walls, and may easily see what little is left of the ancient place without dismounting from his horse. There has been a mosque here, and there are the remains of buildings of some architectural pretensions, but there is nothing which we may certainly identify with the scenes here enacted. OUR CAMP AT TIRMUS AYA Hero it was that Eli guarded the ark of God; here he sat at the gate of the city when his sons had taken that hoI\- thing forth to battle; and here he fell and broke his neck when he learned that the ark had been taken. One pauses here to reflect on the character of Samuel, who at this time rose into prominence in Israel. It was he who saved the nation, and bridged over its transition from the anarchy of the time of the judges to the stability of the mon- archy, which, though it was against his protest, he did so much to make secure. The great men of earth have l)een those who have bridged the transitions of history, and have faced its crises alone. Samuel was one of these — a patriot, an educator, and a statesman of the very first order. ^kS iiii.; o\A) WOKll) IN \[\E Ni:\\ eilNlTRY W'c jounieycd on to Tuniius 'Aya, situated in a much more fertile place than Shiloh, anil reached by riding; through the wheat-fields. There we spent the night. This village, situateil in a rich agricultural district, possesses neither school nor church nor niosc]ue. It has a flat-topped house of some size, in which the sheik lives, and from the roof of this we had a good view of the surrountiing village. In getting to and from this point of vantage, we were besieged by as furious a set of little beggars as ever started on the highroad to the gallows. Here it was that one of our party made himself famous by collecting bakshish from the sheik. That official was much interested in a field-glass which the tourist had, and desired to see it. He looked through it with great satisfaction, and returned it, but the tourist held out his hand and said, "Bak- shish." The sheik heard him in astonishment, and the tourist repeated the demand with increased emphasis. Then the sheik reached down in his pocket and produced an old copper coin and handed it over. Our company, however, paid its usual bakshish to the sheilc. Wherever we went in Palestine we were mulcted for the benefit of these officials, and the company of cutthroats whom they command. Everywhere we were compelled to hire a guard. To be sure, we had men enough with us to defend us against any attack that was likely to be made upon us, and no one would have been so likely to attack us as the guards themselves, who seemed in every case the most dis- reputable brigands in the neighborhood. We paid them to stand guard over themselves, and to protect us against them- selves. It is a species of highway robbery which every one understands, but to which all tourists submit. The guards come out with their rusty old flintlocks, and sometimes dis- charge them once or twice during the night under pretense of shooting at a jackal or hyena, and so making it appear that their presence is a real advantage. A Texas cowboy with a pair of American revolvers would clear out a whole brigade of them. SHILOH AND BETHEL 21( The next morning we came to Bethel, whose present name is Beitin. The name means "the house of God," a name given to it by Jacob when he slept here while fleeing from his brother. It was here that he saw the vision of the angels, and anointed the stone which had been his pillow, and made his vow to be faithful to God. In the division of the territory among the tribes. Bethel was assigned to Benjamin, and later was captured by the northern kingdom, and became the site OUR PARTY AT BETHEL of this most important sanctuary. When Jeroboam seceded, after the death of Solomon, he caused a golden calf to be erected here, and the worship of Jehovah was carried on with that symbol. It was to this place that Amos came, a valiant prophet from the southern kingdom, to deliver his message against the sins of the time. There are about three hundred and sixty inhabitants in Bethel as it now is. One wearies of saying what must be said again and again of these villages, that this is a filthy and squalid town. There is poverty, and hunger, and cold, with deformity, real and feigned. There is little inspiring in tlu' place itself, or in tlu' people who inhabit it. A beautiful spiing is near, liow- :20 THK OLD WORLD IN rilK NKW CKNTL'RV ever, with a t'lnc reservoii-. ami tlu- country is more fertile than some portions throui^h which we have passed. Wc rested here a little while, and before we mounted our horses we sang- a stanza of the hymn forever associated with the memories of this place — "Nearer, My God, to Thee." Wc lunched on the last day at Birch; and here we struck a good roail. which brought us to Jerusalem in a few hours. Jerusalem looked exactly as I expected, excepting that it is built out farther on the north, and with newer buildings. We approached it from the north, and then, keeping to the left, came over Scopus and Olivet, and so saw it successively from the very best possible points of view ; and before night we were able to say, "Our feet are standing within thy gates, O Jerusalem." CHAPTER XV JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY Our first knowledge of Jerusalem is in connection with Melchizedek, king of that city, and the priest to whom Abra- ham paid tithes. The city came into prominence in political history during the reign of David. Up to this time it had remained the fortress of the Jebusites, who believed it to be so secure that the blind and the lame could defend it. After capturing this stronghold, David moved his capital here from Hebron, and established a city which included the southern end of the present town, together with somewhat more of territory to the south. Jerusalem is surrounded on three sides by deep ravines, which make it easily defensible, and probably account for its location. When captured, it has always been captured from the north, unless an exception be made in favor of David's own assault upon the place, when the attack was made "by the watercourse." The present population of Jerusalem is 60,000, of whom 7,000 arc Moslems, 4,000 are Latins, 6,000 orthodox Greeks, 14,000 Mohammedans, 1,000 Armenians, and about 30,000 Jews. The latter have over seventy synagogues, and the number is increasing. Much has been done to induce Jews to return to Jerusalem, and with some success. Money is collected in various parts of the world to be distributed among the poor Jews there. About a thousand of the Jews are American citizens, but many of them have never seen America. The climate, on the whole, is moderate; extreme heat and cold are not common, though llu- heat is felt severely, by reason of the glare of the sun and the absence of shade, and the cold causes considerable suffering, on account of the lack of fuel. It is a wcar\- horseback ride across Samaria to Jerusalem. 221 IIIK OLD WOKLD IN Till'; M.W CKNTURV and takes a week in tlu' saddle. Hut il is wortli wliile if (ine has streiii;tli. If nut, Jerusaleni can hr iwiclu-d 1)\- lail from Joppa. aiul it is a i;ood way to t;o. And Jerusalem is worth visiting, spite of the beggars, the filth, the tleas, the supersti- tion, and all the rest; it is a city hallowed by more sacred associations than any other on earth. The modern Jerusalem is a walled city inclosing the south- ern half of a divided hill, the valley between the two parts extending north and south. The higher of these elevations, popularly known as Mount Zion, is 2,593 feet above the Mediterranean, and the other, Mount Moriah, is 2,440 feet. The valley separating the two hills is known as the Tyro- pcean or Cheesemonger's valley, once a ravine of consider- able depth, and spanned by a bridge from the temple area to the hill opposite, which is now so filled wdth rubbish and built over with houses as almost to have disappeared. The latitude of the city is 31° 47' north, and the longi- tude 35° 14' east. Measuring in a straight line, it is twenty- two miles from the River Jordan and thirty-two miles from the Mediterranean. The Dead Sea, which is in plain sight from the higher buildings of the city, is eighteen miles distant. Viewed from the Mount of Olives or from Scopus, the city presents an imposing appearance. The wall of the city is thirty-eight and one-half feet high, has seven gates and thirty- four towers, and is two and one-fifth miles around. The walls rise from the brow of a hill which itself ascends sharply from the valley, and give to the town an appearance of great strength. The flat-roofed houses, surmounted by domes and minarets, give an impression of solidity, with variety and rich- ness. The town within the walls covers two hundred and nine and one-half acres, but the city extends outward in several directions, especially to the west and north. The cleanest and best part of the city is that outside the walls, the section northwest of the town being occupied largely by foreigners, and having much the aspect of a European town. Outside the Jaffa gate are the railroad station, and a consider- able business district. This gate is the real commercial center JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY 2 2^ of the city. Just inside is an open space about the so-called Tower of David, on which front the American consulate and several of the best business houses. The hill on which Jerusalem is built is composed of lime- stone rock. It grinds into a very fine dust, particularly irri- tating to the eyes. In dry weather it is freely blown about by the winds, and in the rainy season it makes a very slippery and sticky mud. Some effort is made to lay the dust in the THE DAMASCUS GATE OF JERUSALEM dry season by the street-sprinklers of Jerusalem, Arabs with goatskin water-bags, who go slowly through the streets squirt- ing water upon the pavements from the neck of their leather bottles. The city has always possessed a meager water supplw It has but one spring, and this is wholly inadequate to the city's needs. Within a few months water has been piped into the city, and is now to be had in moderate quantities. There are several pools in and about the city, some of them mentioned in Scripture. The pool of Ilczekiah is just within the walls, and the pool of Ik-thesda is believed to h:\.vr l)cin discovered by recent excavations, and is interesting as showing how one 224 I'll' ^>i-i^ woKi.i) IN riiK m:\\ century church has been built above tlic ruins of another, and a third on top of the ruins of the second, as the fillini;- up of the valley has raised the level. In the \alley of Urtas, outsiile the walls, are the pools of Solomon. To the south is the pool of Siloam, into which flows the only living sprini;-, known as the Fountain of the X'iroin; and still south of this is the old pool, into w liich now flows the sewage of the city. Jerusalem abounds in cisterns. These are great bottle- shaped reservoirs hewn out of rock, narrow at the top and widening out below. Not only roofs but the court-yards are used for the collection of water. Excepting for such impurities as the water gathers from the roofs and flagging, it is not at all unwholesome, and in ordinary years proves ade- quate. In all its various sieges, Jerusalem has rarely suffered for lack of water. An investing army may clog a spring or destroy an aqueduct, but they cannot prevent the rain from falling on the just and unjust alike; hence it has been true in the past that Jerusalem's very poverty of water has been her strength in time of war, for the insufficiency of any natural supply has caused extraordinary provisions in the way of reser- voirs and cisterns. It was anxiety concerning the water supply that caused King Ahaz to inspect the aqueducts on the eve of his expected attack from the combined forces of Syria and Israel (Isa. vii). Isaiah went out to meet him "at the end of the conduit of the upper pool in the highway of the fuller's field." Ahaz was evidently planning to gather all available sources of supply, and in this doubtless succeeded; but the city was better pro- vided with water than it was with moral earnestness. Isaiah later said : Ye gathered together the waters of the lower pool. ... Ye made also a ditch between the two walls for the water of the old pool: but ye have not looked unto the maker thereof, neither had respect unto him that fashioned it long ago (Isa. 22:9-11). In such a time Jerusalem compared herself sadly with those cities that had a natural supply of water; so Isaiah said that the king looked longingly at the power of the kingdom of the JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY = 25 great river Euphrates, and was about to mortgage the future of his kingdom for fear the city could not withstand a siege, despising "the waters of Shiloah that go softly," and implor- ing the help of the river of Assyria. Wherefore, Isaiah declared that the king would bring the river down upon INSIDK THE JAFI-A GATE him to his sorrow, making a flood that would overflow the land of the prince of the future. The meaning of this is plain enough. Meager as the city's resources were, its powers of endurance in time of siege were great, and it ought to have relied upon llu-.i' and u])i)n the help of Ciod rather than procure assistance at such fearful cost against powers that were themselves short-lived. If Alia/. invoked the help of Assyria, it would be at the cost of heavy annual tribute, that would bur WOUl.l) IN VWV. Nl'-W CENTURY was ri^ht about it; the water supply was adequate for such a siege as tlie city would then have needed to sustain. It often sufferetl for food, but sekhMii was short of water for drinking. There is no excess of water for washing purposes, how- ever. The city does not abound in bath-tubs, and the people give the most indisputable evidence of the lack of bathing. The Jews are true to their tradition neither to eat nor worship save as they wash oft, but the ceremonial cleansing of a Jew is a decidedly superficial thing. Outside the door of the synagogue is a little faucet, which, being pressed from below, emits a stream of water in diameter like that of a knitting- needle, and in volume just sufficient to moisten the tips of two or three fingers. This satisfies all the requirements of the case. Outside the mosques are places where Mohammedans are expected to do some honest washing before they go in to worship. They approach an ablution much more nearly than the Jew, but even the Moslem compromises the matter some- what in Jerusalem. There are certain kinds of uncleanness that are more or less picturesque, but there is one which I never could witness without feelings of profound sadness — the unwashed eyes of children in Palestine and Egypt. It is no more noticeable in Jerusalem than elsewhere, but it is quite as much so. It is the city inside the walls that appeals chiefly to the tourist. Entering at the Jaffa gate near the middle of the city on the west side, one leaves upon his right the ancient Tower of David, so called, and walks straight east on David Street to the middle of the temple area. To his right as he enters is the Armenian quarter, and toward the left is the Christian. The Mohammedan quarter lies in the northeast section of the city, and the Jewish in the south, between the Armenian quarter and the temple area. All the places of interest are easily found, and while the streets are narrow and crooked, it is not very difficult to keep the general direction; and the city is so small that it is quite impossible for one to lose himself very long. The streets are represented as being dangerous at night, and there is little occasion for one to use them in the JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY 227 evening; for everything shuts up when the sun goes down. But I found no reason to think that a stranger who has any business to be abroad at night may not go where he needs to go by exercising ordinary prudence. I am satisfied that many of the stories told of the dangers of moving about in the Orient are fabricated in the interests of guides who wish to make their services indispensable. Still I am far from maintaining that a stranger should go much alone at night in the unfamiliar portions of any Oriental town. It is usually safe for a vigorous man to go wherever he has a rea- sonable errand and exer- cises common prudence, but a mere curious searcher for sensations might easily find all he was seeking in some quarters of Jerusalem where the people arc fanat- ical and not too fond of the intrusion of strangers. No wheeled vehicles are found within the city walls except carriages from the station which drive barely within the larger gates to the public buildings close at hand. Carriages in sufficient numbers are fouml at llic r.iilwa)' station, and these convey the tourists to the hotels at break-neck speed. It would be hard to find more reckless drivers than those in the neighborhood of Jerusalem. They stand up like charioteers and ply tlic ulii]) and sliout at i:acli other whiK' tjuii- horses run. Within the walls, merchandise is transported on donkeys JEKUSALKM WATER CAKKll.KS Photograph by Mrs. F. B. Newell 228 i-iii' (Ml) WDKi.i) IN rill': M'-.w cKxi'cm' aiul i.\inu-ls. .uul pctlostrians nuist croutl against the sides of the buildiiii^s to let them pass. The sit^htsecr must make his way about on foot, and the coiuhti(Mi of the streets makes dayhi^ht the desirable time (ov investiii^ations. There are no sewers in the cit\-. Jerusalem cannot be a(le(iuately described in polite society. The streets are not the only topsy-turvy things in Jerusa- lem. The calendar is as great a maze as the business portion of the town. There arc four separate Sabbaths — Christian, Jewish, INIohammedan and Coptic. The Copts have a calen- dar with twelve months of thirty days each, and one short month of five days, which become six on leap year; the government uses the Julian calendar, which is thirteen days later than the Christian; the Mohammedans begin their era with the Hegira of Mohammed, July 15 or 16, 622, so that this year (1902) is the year 1320 with them; while the Jews reckon from the supposed date of the creation, and count this year 5663. The Armenians reckon from the supposed begin- ning of their language, and count this year 4395, or from their first king, which would make the year 1351. The Jews, as well as the Copts and Armenians, have both a civil and a religious New Year, so that Jerusalem has four separate Christ- mas Days, and about seven New Years. A calendar to be of service in Jerusalem must have some twelve different show- ings, six each in French and Arabic. A plain American must look at them all, and the moon's phases, and the various lists of feast days, and guess whether it is Sunday or not. A page from a Jerusalem calendar will illustrate the difficulty of the situation. It is not my intention to introduce puzzles into this volume, but I am considering the wisdom of opening a guessing contest on the question what day of what month and what year is intended to be set forth on this innocent leaf from a modern calendar as used in Jerusalem. The visitor to Jerusalem speedily becomes aware that the city is not lacking in commercial enterprise. He is met at the railroad station, or on the highway, by agents of the various shops, thrusting into his hand advertising cards telling where JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY 229 to buy olive-wood souvenirs and photographs. This is some- thing which the visitor wants, and he is glad of this degree of activity on the part of the venders, but this is by no means the extent of their interest in him. Representatives of the various stores are in the hotel corridors with articles to sell, and others wait in the street outside shouting to him not to A STREET IN JKKUSALEM Photograph by Mrs. F. B. Newell buy goods in the hotel, as he will have to pay more money for them. This warning, while not wholly disinterested, is one that the visitor will do well to heed. When the tourist sets forth to make discoveries he is instantly waited on by agents who offer to take him anywhere he wants to go free of expense, and especially invite him to visit the shops. I quickly fell a victim to one of these representatives. I Ic was a lad of about fourteen, well dressed, and with beautiful, deep, dark eyes. He is poor, so 1 was informed, and has parents dependent upon his labor. lie speaks several Ian- rm o\.\) WOULD in riii', Niav ckntury i;"uaL;cs, aiul his iMi^lish is exceedingly soft and persuasive, with a little hesitation as to the precise word, and a straight look into your eyes. "Will you conic with mc to nn--a shop?" he asked; "or will vou let me show \-ou what n-ou wish to see? T will show you anything, only go with me to my-a shop. I do not want your bakshish," he said. MEIKKEDI « >Wi 1911)1 S" Klisabetli Rfiiic Julieii N'ovcmliic 1901 S. P»ul Arcb. lie Cunsl. (Or.) An. 4391 = 1350 Arm. Coptes 10 Halour 1618 S'' Sophie V. M. Israelites 8 Kislew 5662 H^gire Scbaaban 1.319 Ut. h. m. 52— Couc*. *• 5 « 322 43 <<.Ui ^LL..n \^•^ a^ when I declined; "I am-serv- ant of my-a shop." I was headed toward the Jaffa gate, and his shop lay on my route, so I went with him for a preliminary look inside. He who enters a store in Jerusalem is a marked man from that time forth. On one pretext or another the proprietor sends a man with him to show him what- ever he wishes to see, or to find whatever he is seeking. V/ They will not let him out of yrsK ^/ J^ y . ,i , f ,, . sight of one of their repre- i,iii ;..iji Lij^ \-\\A h-f Jji\f o^^'< L?^^: A-^ A LEAF FROM A JERUSALEM CALENDAR By Courtesy of The Oaks Magazine sentatives if they can help it until they know that he has made his purchases. If he goes into another store they find it out, and they will know precisely what he examined there, and have one like it ready to show him, a little cheaper, when he comes into their store again. They have a num- ber of clerks near the door, who rush out and all but drag the customer in, and they drive bargains more relentlessly than in any other city that we visited. A few stores connected with religious or philanthropic societies do not engage in this un- seemly rush for trade, and these are more reliable than those that employ the spotting system, but even these must meet the competition, and are sorely perplexed by reason of it. JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY 23 The visitor is anxious to see the sights inside the walls. The mosques of Omar and El-Aksa; the Via Dolorosa, and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher; the pool of Bethesda and that of Hezekiah; the Jews' wailing-place, and the arch of Robinson — these he ought to visit more than once, and he will see a good deal of the city as he does so. From the top STREET ARABS Photograph by Mrs. F. B. Newell of some high building he will get a bird's-eye view of the city, and this he should do early, for having done so he can readily find his way to the more important points. The best places for this outlook are the great Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, dedicated by the Kmpcror William, and the Ger- man synagogue, from whose top is an excellent view. 1 laving done this, he may well plan little excursions to the chief points of interest, and he is likely to have the good fortune to lose his way enough so that he never goes and comes by quite the same course, and thus in a very few days he becomes familiar with Jerusalem's chief points of attraction, and has some slight knowledge of all its principal streets. riii- oi.n woui.D in riii'. m'.w ckn'itkn Ik- who outers Jcrusalcni at the Jaffa t;ate and walks straight ahead tliroui^h the narr.nv streets, with tlieir Oriental bazaars, their camels, and their thousand smells, comes at length to the temple area on the opposite side of the city, upon which stand two great mosques. One of these is the Mosque of Omar, said to cover the site of the tem])le; but the '»«iirtlri)iii-'i.^j GAMBLING Photograph by Mrs. F. B. Newell temple really stood to the south, and nearer to the place where the Mosque of Kl-Aksa stands. The latter is interesting within, but the former is one of the chief attractions of Jeru- salem. It is octagonal in shape, surmounted by a dome of exquisite proportions, and is one of the most attractive archi- tectural structures in the world. We visited the Mosque of Omar under the guidance of our good dragoman Shukrey, and were met by one of the sheiks of the mosque who took us in charge. At the door we were given the usual great leather slippers to put on over our shoes, JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY 233 and these are worn through both mosques, and left at the door of the Mosque of El-Aksa. The sheik who took us in charge was a pleasant, easy- going old fellow, who believes implicitly all the stories which they tell about the mosque, or seems to. Under his guidance we saw the great rock which stands in the middle of the THE MOSQUE OF OMAR Photograph by Miss Anna M. Matthews mosque. It is the veritable top of the mountain, and is said to be the place where Abraham offered up Isaac, though the Samaritans declare that this occurred on Mount Gerizim, and Dean Stanley agrees with them. The stone is fifty-six feet long and forty feet wide, and the Mohammedans count it particularly sacred. A large circular hole near the southern end of the rock seems to have been used in connection with the ancient sacrifices, being [)crha))s a conduit for the blood to flow into the valley beneath. hroni tin's rock, say the Mohammedans, Mohammed ascended into heaven. The rock started to go with him, and was kept on earth only 1)>' the strong grasp of the angel Gabriel, whose finger marks are still 2^^ TllK OLO WOKl.I^ IN 'I'l 1 1'. M'.W Cl'.NIl ' 1< N' sliowii oil the rocl<. 1 woiulcrcd wlicthri- llu- old sheik re.illy beheved these to he the fini^er marks of Gabrieh and 1 rather think he (.h\l. We lia\e all lieard of the coffin of Mohammed, suspended between heaven and earth. It is this rock that, in roalitv, eives rise to the tradition. The an■•"'.. '. I ■.,..,1..,,. MHOE PEYEIQ OYnE It TH1-: ONE liliMAlNlNG STONK of these assemblies. Every clear Friday brings out a number of kodaks, and not all the Jews who come out to wail are wholly unconscious of the presence of the camera. The impression of the scene as a whole is that it is generally arti- ficial, and li]f Nun 1 Kings 16: 34). History does not say what penalty, if any, was visited on the man who last rebuilt Jerusalem. Let us hope, since he probably "wrought in a sad sincerity," that his household escaped. CllAPTliR X\'l JERUSALEM AND ITS ENVIRONS Anioii^" the many questions concernii\>i the three crosses was brou^dit in succes- sion into the presence of a uouian who was sick: the Inst two made her violently worse, and the third wroui,dU a cmc. b\ which token the finders were assured which were the crosses of the thieves and whidi the cross of Christ: but thi-^ is liy .•50 riiK 011^ wuKi.i) IN iiii'. m:w ci'.Nrrm' iu> nioans the on\y miracle curicnllx- reported concerning the luulinLi' of the Sepuleher ami the place of the cross. Some of these aiklitional miracles, the good friar told me, are taught l)y the Greek Church. auA others are more or less believed by both bodies; but he wished me to remember that for no other does the Roman Church lioUl herself responsible. The Church oi the Holy Sepuleher, whose erection by C\->nstantine"s mother is recorded by I-lusebius, about 325 A. ])., stood for 353 years, until Jerusalem fell into the hands of Omar and liis Moslems, They did not greatly injure the edifice, but about 969 the order for its destruction was given by the Caliph Mae/.. In loio the mad Caliph ITakem completed its destruction. Its rebuilding was begun in 1040 by the patriarch Nicephorus. In 1099 the Crusaders entered Jerusalem and enlarged both the church and the Sepuleher. In iSoS this church was burned. The conflagration was terrible, and for five hours raged within this spot, the then dearest on earth to Christian hearts. In iSio the present church was completed, at a cost of nearly three millions of dollars, one-third of which, it is said, was paid to lawyers and for the bribing of Turkish officials. Without this bribery the building could hardlv have been erected at all. Three times 1 visited the Church of the Sepuleher, and always found it thronged. Once I passed in close behind the Greek patriarch, who prostrated himself before the Stone of Anointment, while the soldiers presented arms, and the hosts of pilgrims with candles rose tier on tier around the vestibule. Once I went early in the morning, and was shown about by 'the monk already referred to, who, with the Turkish sergeant, devoted to me considerable time, antl was in every way courteous. I saw the rent rock of the earthcpiake, and the precise spot where each of the crosses stood, and all the other places of interest. I also saw the center of the earth, and the tomb of Adam, and certain other things which it is hard to treat seriously, save as one remembers their sacredness in others' sight. He has no right to visit any shrine or temple who goes devoid of sympathy for those Vv'ho worship there, JERUSALEM AND ITS ENVIRONS -51 and I would far rather be the most ignorant of the worshipers than the most enh'ghtened of the scoffers, l^ut the juxtaposi- tion of the true and the false, the sacred and the commercial, the refinement of form and the absence of spirit, jar unpleas- I III iioi .^ m:i'Li.cui-:k antly u[)f)n one in this, w liicii, spite of all, is still a sacred place, however void of truth is the theory that gives it its name. If the genuineness of the traditional site of the lloly Sepulcher be given up, where shall we locate the scene of the crucifixion? The place which increasingly is finding favor among scholars and visitors to Jerusalem as the piohable site of (Olivary, is that just above the traditional grotto of JeiX'- miah, and is localh* known as Ciordon's ("al\ar\-. It is most .'3- iiii' oi.D \\(>i^:i n IN riii-: ni:\v ci'.niury unfortunate that such a iianu- is L;i\cn to the place. (iciicral Gordon visitcil Jerusalem ami heeanie L;reatl\- impressed with the probable genuineness oi this site, .nul from that time on until his death, spoke and wrote much in favor of it. A local photographer, takini:^ adxantage of the demand for pictures, labeled his ne,L;ati\e "Gordon's CaK'ary," and so the name became fixed. It is not uncommon to f^ive the name THE NEW CALVARY Photograph by Miss Anna M. Matthews of the supposed discoverer to the site which he has found, but it is peculiarly unfortunate that any man's name should be attached to Calvary. It is Christ's Calvary, or it is no one's. However, by Gordon's name it is locally known. What we know about the crucifixion is, that Jesus was crucified outside the wall, in a conspicuous place, near the public road, and in close proximity to a garden in which was a rock-hewn tomb. The place at that time was called Golgotha, the place of a skull, though whether because the round hillock was shaped like a skull, or because the skulls of malefactors were sometimes exposed there, we do not know. The name has long since disappeared, and affords no assist- JERUSALEM AM) ITS ENVIRONS 253 ance; however, many profess to see in the new Calvary some resemblance to a skull, that might have accounted for the original name. Quite apart from this, however, the place fulfils all the essential conditions. Unquestionably it lay out- side the walls in Christ's time, as it does to-day, and near to I 111- -^1II■.|■|1I•.K1» ON (AI.XARV St. Stephen's gate, through which lie probably passed on His way to the crucifi.xion. Though by no means a moun- tain, it is a conspicuous elevation, adjacent to two public highways, in plain sight of the walls, and a place of gardens and of tombs. Indeed, there now lies at its base a gartkn with a rock-hewn tomb which so strikingly meets all the con- ditions afforded by our knowledge of the circumstances as to supply every detail requisite to the theory that this was the veritable Calvary, and here the garden of Joseph, and the tomb in which Christ law -'S-i I'liK oi.n WDKi n IN rill m:\\ c"i:NrrRV This is the spot to suit not only one's conviction, but <>nc"s sense of titness. Ilere is a pi. ice that nial WOULD IN 1111. m:\\ cI'Intiky to bo buried aiul forgotten than in the nniltitutle of graves that are here. Still, certain of the cemeteries are well cared for, among tliem the little Protestant cemetery on the south sitle of the city, which is really a comparatively attractive place. Follow ing around on the south, one comes to Siloam, AN OLD ol.l\ E-TKEK IN (iETHSKMANE and may somewhat easily make his way up the valley on the east. From the east side entirely around the north and to the JafTa gate on the west, and so on south to the railroad station, one may drive with a carriage, and so it is not a very difficult task to make the entire circuit of the walls. Of course the visitor must cross the valley of Jehoshaphat to Gethsemane. Two spots are claimed as the real site of the garden, one by the Greeks and the other by the Latins. So far as I could judge, there is no reason why they may not JERUSALEM AND ITS ENVIRONS ■:)i both be genuine. The original garden must have been con- siderably larger than both of these together. The Latin Gethsemane is the one that most appeals to American tour- ists. One enters it by a small, low gate, and finds within it eieht old olive-trees. The situation at the foot of Olivet and just off the road, that branching leads one way directly over the top and the other around the hill, is in itself most con- vincing, and appeals to one with a strong suggestion of genu- IJETIl.VNV ineness. Inside, tiie venerable trees, which may be eight hundred or a thousand years old, have such a suggestion of antiquity that one is satisfied to think iIkhi, if u..t the originals, at least the lineal descendants of those that stood there in the time of Christ. So far forth everything is as one should wish it, and within the garden, at the spot where Jesus is believed to have prayed, is Canova's beautiful marble group of Christ strengthened by the angel. .All this is as it should be. Hut besides this, there are a number of cheap and tawdry shrines, repulsively inartistic, marking the e.xact s(iuare foot where each incident of Christ's agony is believed to have occurred. I cannot tell li<>w indescribably it cheapens the narrative thus JS^ rui' oin woKin in riii, m:w ii'.NrrRV to nail it down to a precise s(|uare yard of cartli, and to illus- trate it hv a crude and soulless bas-relief, the work of a super- stitious brain and unskilful hands, unenlightened by any noble conception of the subject. The l-'ranciscan monks who have the place in charge may be more devoted and less crafty than they seem, so I will not bring any railing accusation against them. Mr. William K. Curtis, who visited Jerusalem just before I was there, thus describes the traffic in the olive fruit and foliage of the eight living trees in the garden : These trees are utilized in an extraordinary manner foi' tlie purimsi- of raisins;: money. Each tree is tlieoretically owned by a stock com])any, un- limited. As much stock is issued as the Christian i)ublic will ahsorl), and the dividends, wliicli are paid in tiie form of little fancy vials of oil, are cer- tain. .A-lthough these trees ceased to bear fruit generations ago, the people in charge do not hesitate to give assurance to the contrary to the share- holders, and of course there is always enough olive oil to be had in Jerusalem to pay the dividends. Ground sanctified by the Saviour's tears, to many minds the most sacred spot on earth, is profaned by tiiis and other iiunibugs practiced by men who should be driven from that holy place, as Christ drove the traders from the temjjle. Sprigs of olive and jiressed flowers gathered upon the hills around Jerusalem are sold by the car-load to confid- ing people as if they came from Gethsemane. The Roman Catholic garden is very small, not more than 300 feet long by 200 feet wide, in the shape of an irregular triangle. The Greek garden is considerably larger. There are many humbugs about here. The guides point out to you the "terra damnata," the exact spot where Judas kissed the Saviour, and the stone upon which the apostles slept when they should have been watching. The gospels tell us that three of them were in the party, but the stone is not big enough for more than two very small men. Gethsemane is at the foot of the Mount of Olives, and a good roadway, kept in excellent order by the Russians, leads to the top of the hill, an easy walk of half an hour. Ipon the way you see some remarkable things. For example, a light gray rock is pointed out as the place where the Madonna dropped her girdle when she ascended to heaven; a little farther up is an- other rock upon which Jesus stood when he beheld tiie city and wept over it. Here is the stone from which the Holy Virgin mounted the ass when starting upon her journey to Egypt. Here is the place where Jesus forgave Peter all his sins. A place where Mary once met her Son, when she was going to Bethany and he was on his way to Jerusalem, is marked by a cross, and cavities in several rocks on the hillside are shown as footprints of saints. The barren fig-tree cursed by the Saviour is still growing on the TJethany side of the mountain, and in that little town, which is only two miles from Gethsemane, a pleasant walk around the side of Mount Olivet, JERUSALEM AND ITS ENVIRONS -59 are shown four different houses in which Mary and Martha lived with their brother Lazarus. All these are for the purpose of deceiving the pilgrims. But they are not the worst. Two different trees are pointed out as the actual gibbets upon which Judas hanged himself, in proof whereof the branches grow toward the east, pointing away from the Holy Sepulcher, and the guides THE TOMH i>I- LAZAKUS will tell you that this is a miracle. Judas trees were formerly more numer- ous than now, and twenty-five years ago they were at an entirely diiferent locality. Faith in the longevity of trees in this country is astonishing. Down at Jericho they show you the tree that Zaccheus climbed to see the Saviour pass by. To some people these humbugs are so manifest as to be amusing, but they deceive 90 per cent of the devout, trusting pilgrims who come to wor- shi[> and adore, and thus a great wrong is done. Fortunately, it is impossible wholly to spoil the mountain ; hence the Mount of < )livcs retains sometiiing of its sacred association. Here where the feet of Jesus last pressed the 2bo Till' Ol 1> WOULD IN llll'. NIAV CKNllin soil oi cailh. one Iccls a thrill of salisf.iclion in findini^ some spots of seclusit^n away from shiincs and cluiichcs that vainly seek to make the place more sacred, and towcis whose height seems a poor attempt to follow his ascent into heaven. There are still some (piiet places where one can feel something of that which makes the place one of the most sacred on earth. From here, one has his finest view of Jerusalem, and cannot wonder that from this eminence the disciples looked upon the city with admiration. Around the brow of the hill on the other side from Jeru- salem is the little village of Bethany. It is an uninteresting place to-day, but one visits it gladly, for this was the home of Jesus' friends. The house where they lived is pointed out, of course, and one may see it quickly, and be glad when that part of it is over. It is simply another tradition, and nowhere are traditions more cheap. But more interesting is the alleged tomb of Lazarus, a deep cave approached by a dark stairway, and so constructed as to give shape to one's thought of the greatest miracle of Christ's lifetime. All the way from Ik^thany to Jerusalem the tourist is be- sieged by beggars, and the slope up which he ascends to the city is occupied by lepers, who run along beside the carriage and thrust their diseased hands into his face, demanding bakshish. Their cry, "Lipra! lipral" is pathetic, querulous, insistent. It is hard to pity them, so repulsive are they, so needless is their beggary, and so repellant is their method of extorting black- mail, (^ne has constant need to remind himself that Jesus had compassion on the lepers. There is no greater proof of his tenderness than his attitude toward these wretched outcasts. Jerusalem is a favorite place for philanthropy. There are at least two homes for lepers, and none of these people need beg; but they are fond of begging, and exercise their privi- lege outside the walls. Within the gates they may not come. I was glad to see the homes for them, even if the lepers refuse to occupy them. In time a better condition of government will compel them to remain in quarantine. So only can the disease be eradicated. JERUSALEM AND ITS ENVIRONS 261 Another sight gladdened me — the British Ophthahnic Hospital. I tried to learn more about its work, but learned little, and had not time to visit the institution. Such a hos- pital, well endowed, can do a great work in that land of limestone dust and unwashed eyes. Diseases of the sight are fearfully frequent. There could be no finer Christian charity than the giving of sight in His name in Jerusalem. JERUSALEM BEGGARS Photograph by Mrs. F. B. Newell Much money has been expended in Jcrus.dem in the n.mic of religion, and much will continue to be expended. T" Jews, Greeks and Latins, money is sent for distribution to "the poor saints in Jerusalem," some of whom have as ni.m> forms of religion as there are available distributions of .dins. The largest Protestant work, and an excellent work, iloiu- in the city is by the I':piscoi)alians of England, tluou-h the Church Missionary Society. There is a House ot Industry. maintained by llu: London Jews' Society, where boys are taught trades, and the products are sold as souvenirs. So far as I could learn, there is no (.verlapping of I'rotestant work in Palestine, or strife among any organized dcnoniiiiat ional 2U2 1111. oi.n WOULD IN iiu: NKW ci:nii'rv .I'^oncics. 'riiorc arc nuincrous iiulcpi'iidciU ai^encies, some of tlicni worl- around the Mount of Olives, and past the single spring known as the Apostle's Spring, from the tradition, or ratlu-r {\■^m^ the con- jecture, based on the practical necessities of the c.ise. that t he apostles must have rested here. The springs of T.ilestine are its most certainly authentic spots. If this ^jjiing existed in 2()., ■i-iii oi.n WOULD IN iiii: m:\\ ci'.nhkv tlio time of (."hrist, it is perfectly safe to assume tliat tlie apostles aiul ("hrist liiiusi-lf made use of it, ami drank of its waters. Midway between Jerusalem and Jericho is the inn of the Good Samaritan. it stands in the midst of a desolate region, occupying the site of a much more ancient structure, and the name is entirely fitting. The horses rest here for from ten to thirty minutes, making the longer wait on the return trip, and THK KOAU FROM JERUSALEM TO JERICHO Photograph by Mrs. F. B. Newell JERICHO, JORDAN, AND THE RED SEA 26: here the tourists have abundant opportunity to procure reHcs of various sorts. There are knives and swords and ancient blunderbusses that have doubtless been used by thieves along this same road, for the highway still retains its old reputation. Still descending, one passes along the edge of the deep ravine known as the Brook Cherith, where Elijah fled after discovering that a famine was to occur, and remained in hiding THE INN OF THE GOOD SAMARITAN until the brook dried up. ( )ii the opposite side of the caHon are several monasteries, the homes of lurmits, llie most remarkable of which is Wad}' el-Kelt, which was l)uilt in 535, and is said to be a kind of penitentiary for (irrek piiosts. It is a lonely place, and if any priest has sinneti so as to tall under the just wrath of his brethren, it is hard to iinagiiu- a more desolate spot in uhicii he could do i)enan(. r for his fault. We have been passing through the wiKKrutss of Judci. If uc have supposed that anything seen in ralcsiinc^ before might properly be called a wilderness, uc n^CA dailv. As the sea lias no outlet, all this water evaporates, and leaves what remains behind exceedingly heavy in mineral substances. It contains from twenty-four to twent>--six per cent of solid matter, of which seven per cent is salt. It has an (mIv feeling, and those who bathed in the water differ in their account of its efTect upon them, some SITE OF JERICHO saying that they felt sticky from the salt, and others that the skin felt soft and pleasant from the oiliness. There are no living creatures in the Dead Sea, and very few birds about the shores; this is not, however, because of anything fatal in the atmosphere, as has sometimes been assumed, but because no fresh water is available. Re-entering our carriages, we drove northward, and stopped again at the ford of the Jordan. The Jordan is the one river of I'alestine, and is unlike all other rivers. Its course is entirely below the level of the sea, and its gorge is so hot and unhealthy that no villages exist along its banks save only near its mouth. It is so rapid and narrow as to be wholly unused for commercial purposes. Instead, therefore, JERICHO, JORDAN", AND THE RED SEA 269 of uniting the regions through which it passes, it makes an almost impassable barrier between Palestine proper and the regions on the other side of the Jordan. A stream so insig- nificant in its breadth, could hardly have become important enough to deserve mention in literature save by reason of its rapidity and depth. Its fall from the Lake of Tiberias to the Dead Sea is six hundred and ten feet in a distance of about THE FOUNTAIN OF liLlMIA >,ixty miles in a straight line, l)ut increased by man_\- windings of the stream to nearly two hundred miles. Its banks are covered with a thick vegetable growth which is known .is Pride, or Swelling of Jordan. The inhabitants and travelers being very few, the wild beasts here have things almost their own way. It is not without reason that tradition has located tin- scene of John's baptizing at the ford of ihr Jordan, for although we have no knowledge of the site of Hcthahara. this spot has been that which pilgrims have sought from vrr\- remote ages. I'rom the time of Constantine, it has been esteemed a high privilege to be bapti/.ed in Jordan. Multitudes of (ireek l)ilgrims come here annually at Master, arrayed in white robes. 270 II 1 1-: 01 I) WOKI 1) 1\ rill-. NKW CI'.N'ri'KY and at miclniL^iit baptize thcniscUcs in tliis water. Tlie stream is very rapiil, ami l;ii-m1 eare is needed if one enters it. It is also \ery nuldd^^ and water taken from the river cjuickly ferments nnless it is boiled and clarified. A single row-boat i-^ maintained at the ford, ami its owner gives tourists a brief ride on the lordan for about a franc. It is well not to pay him until he returns to shore, especiall\- when trade is brisk. THE IJEAD SE.A as he has a habit of cutting rides short if he can get more fares by so doing. Greek priests from the monasteries above come down to the ford and sell to pilgrims pebbles from the Jordan with cheap little transfer pictures of the baptism of Christ upon them. Various small articles manufactured from black Dead Sea stone are sold here, as well as rosaries and crucifixes. We were tired and hot and dusty enough when we returned to the hotel. There was some speculation among members of the party as to the character of the meat that we had for dinner, some affirming that it was camel, and others goat, but it was probably mutton. After dinner Joseph the dragoman took down from the wall a hyena skin, and told us about the hyena, which we were sure to hear howling at night. A traveler on a lonely road will hear its cry, and then feel the 271 JERICHO, JORDAN, AND THE RED SEA 27 hyena brush his face as it leaps over his shoulder. This per- formance is repeated until the traveler stops in terror and bewilderment to find himself confronted by the creature's two eyes, shining out of the dark. Rooted to the spot, he gazes Till-. IKI)AN. 1)K. JdsIAII SIKllNC IN Till-. !•■( )KI".(; KOUN I) at these fearful eyes in horror-stricken fascination, and at length follows them, as the hyena, receding, lures him to its cave. Joseph warned us not to hnik too long evtii at the eyeless head of the dead skin lest we should feel sometiiing of this fatal charm. Now and then a man is rescued who has been charmed by tiie hyena, and it is necessary to h«)l the I mi.!. saying : My God fi.rhid itine.thal 1 sliouki (li> lliis lliiiig: shall I drink tlic l)l>>od of these riicii that liavc put their lives in jeopardy? for with the jeopardy of their lives tiiey Ijron^ht it (i Chroii. 11: 19). It is such acts as these that show the man's true greatness, and reveal to us David as he actually was — impulsive, fallible, but warm-hearted, generous, brave and high-minded. Near Bethlehem also is shown a cave where Mary is sup- posed to have stopi)ed and nursed the infant Child. Iliial In-ariiitx of no sli>;ht interest. !•' ranee has long claimed tlu- ijiiaiilianship o{ tlie Latin interests in the lioiy placi'S of Palestine, as well as in the Roman Catholic missions in the near and farther h'ast. Hut the wounded Latin monks were Germans and Italians, and were defended by their respective governments, which obtained an irade from the sultan recognizing tlieir right to protect their subjects. So perishes in Turkey the claim of France to an e.\clusive protectorate over the Roman Catholic sta- tions in the Kast, and with it an element of jirestige and an instrument of intrigue which — for a ct)untry which persecutes the church at home she has often used unscrupulously in the past, '/'//e Con^^rei^atioiiiilixt, July I have chosen to speak at length of these ciiiarrels here, rather than overburden the chapters on Jerusalem with them, because the conditions are parallel in the two places. May they soon be changed in both. Let us now return to the Church of the Nativity. The place of Christ's birth is located in a cavern under- neath the high altar, and is shared by the three sects that have their separate quarters on the ground floor. Things do not change very often in the Orient, and the site of the old caravansary of Bethlehem may easily have been distinguished in Justin Martyr's day. I see no good reason to doubt the strong probability that in this stable Christ was born. That caverns are utilized as stables in Palestine, we had abundant proof. That this was once a stable seems entirely probable; that it was attached to the khan at Bethlehem I see no reason to doubt. The hill on which the town is built is so small that the position of the village cannot greatly have changed. My feeling, as well as my judgment, assured me that this is the spot where Joseph and Mary made their lodging on that night when the angels sang. In such a place it is something to be able to say that the weight of historic testimony and the facts of topography make the genuineness of a site probable; but it is still more to have the aesthetic feeling satisfied that the site meets the essential conditions, and this is true in J^eth- lehein. An Armenian service was in progress at the time we visited the grotto. . It was a service of children, a little dark-haired, large-eyed company, who chanted their minor songs in praise BETHLEHEM, WHERE ANGELS SANG 281 of Him who there was born. The words were unintelligible, and the music was unfamiliar, but the service seemed strangely appropriate for the place. In the Latin section of the building we found a school in session, a large Christian institution taught by the monks. There is no better use to which a portion of this building KKSTINMi ON TIIF. WAV Ti > Ml 1U<<>N Photograph by Mrs. K. B. Newell could be dedicated than that of the instruction of l)oys .ind girls of the village of l^ethlchem, in the name of Christ wId was born there. Jerome lived at Hethlehcm. :i\u\ here did much of his work of translating the Bible into the Vulgate. The place where he did it is pointed out in one of the subterranean vaults of the Church of the Nativity. It is fitting that this event, which spread the gospel to so many millions, should h.ive occurred on this spot where Jesus was born. Of course they showed us lerome's toml). and it mattcrx little that the tradition :Sj rill oil) WOULD IN lili-. NKW ClCNl'TUV wliicli locates it uiuler this roof is onI\- tlin'c huiulrcd years oKl. Wo (.1(1 not ncctl to know where tlie saint's dead body was laii.1, since we l; nf (ihi, Kroin an<;t.'ls iKMidiiij; iii-ar the eaitli, l"o toucli ilirii" liarps with ;j,<)hi; " Peace to tlio earth, good-will to iikmi, From heaven's all-gracious King " The eartli in solemn stillness lay, W' hear the angels sing. () ye, lieneath life's crushing load, Whose forms are bending low, Wlio toil along the climbing way, With painful stejis and slow, — L(K)k upl for glad an(i golden hours Come swiftly on the wing; Oh, rest beside the weary road, And hear the angels sing! It is not strange that even tlie stolid find themselves repeating such lines in Bethlehem ; it would be strange were it not so. And if a man be a Christian, and have in his soul a shred of that sentiment which makes the poet, the singer, or the seer, he repeats with new significance the words of the prophet : But thou, Bethlehem Ephratah, though thou be little among the thou- sands of Judah, yet out of thee shall he come forth unto me that is to be ruler in Israel (Micah 5-2). Here he feels new Joy in the fulfilment of the promise which the prophets longed for but their earthly eyes saw not. Here the songs he loves take on a new sweetness. And how many of them belong to Bethlehem! From Handel's triumphant chorus, "For unto us a Child is born," to the latest and simplest Christmas carol; and from the good old- fashioned, time-honored hymn, "While shepherds watched their flocks by night," to Phillips i^rooks' exquisite "O little town of Bethlehem," they ring in his cars, and give fit expression to his feelings. And what but poetry and music, consecrated by the love of Christian hearts, can worthily celebrate this spot? For here perhaps, in the very "Shep- herds' Field" that is pointed out, and certainly within the range of vision as one stands there and looks about, was heard BETHLEHEM, WHERE ANGELS SANG 2S5 the song of the angels announcing the Saviour's birth. No event in all earth's history was so fit to be introduced with song. A perfect burst of melody accompanies it in the Gos- pels. There is a quartette of earth and a chorus of heaven. Zacharias sings his Bcnedictns, and Simeon his Xunc Dimittis; Elizabeth breaks forth with her Beatitude, and Mary, clear as the lark, sings her Magnificat. When else on earth were ever heard four voices such as these, singing each its solo blending with the rest into one unapproachable anthem? And above them all bend the angels with their Ciloria. One reads of this in other places; he hears it in his heart at Bethlehem. Here for a blessed moment the sight and sound of the world as it is are lost, and the air vibrates again with angel voices, singing: Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, goodwill toward men! CHAPTER XIX JAl'l-A: l-AREWKLL TO I'Al.ESTINE Jaffa is the city of I'alcstinc which most tourists see first, aiul is therefore very fully described in all books about the country. We reversed the order, and saw it under no halo of novelty. Hut it was far from lacking- in interest. W'c left Jerusalem early on a Monday morning, and drove in carriages to the railway station, where our special train was waitinsf. The locomotive was one built for tlie road across the Isthmus of Panama, and the road is owned by a French company. The cars are comfortable, and the journey, while not a rapid one, is made so much more quickly than in the old way, and comfortably as well, that we were glad enough of the new method of transportation. It disturbs one's senti- ment a bit to hear the whistle of the locomotive in the Holy Land, but it rests his weary frame, and there comes a time when rest is worth considering. At a little station between Jaffa and Jerusalem I saw a camel hitched to the station paling, and ran out while the train stopped to make a snap-shot of him with the locomotive in the background. I hurried back to the train, not so much in fear of its leaving as to escape the owner of the camel, who demanded bakshish for the photograph which I had taken. One may photograph anything in Palestine, but there is noth- ing so ancient or so thoroughly public in its character that some individual does not demand bakshish if you point a camera at it. There is something suggestive in the combina- tion of camel and engine. It represents rapid transit, past and future. As we were sitting in the train at Jerusalem, a man and woman walked through the cars distributing cards, which introduced them as "Mr. and Mrs. Georges O'Mally, walking 286 JAFFA: FARE\V1:LL TO PALKSTINE :S: around the world, 1897- 1902." They had started on their honeymoon five years before, and had gotten as far as Jerusa- lem, subsisting on the contributions of the people as they went. They wanted some money from us; but we, by this time, were ready to have some one else bestow bakshish upon us. So the appearance of the bride and groom contributed more to our diversion than to their financial profit. I should like to know how they have come to enjoy each other during this pro- longed and unique bridal tour; for how c;in two walk around the world together except they be agreed? We crossed the beauti- ful and fertile plain of Sharon, and passed through the ancient city of Lydda, where St. George, the pa- tron saint of England, and the hero of the encounter with the dragon, is said to have been born. It was here at Lydda that Peter was staying when the Christians of Joppa invited him to visit that city at the time of the death of the generous and skilful 1 )urcas, whose charity- has made her name sacred to numerous organizations ot Christian women. And so we came to Joppa, or Jaffa, as it now is called. Jaffa is beautiful entnigh to the eyes of the tourist just aljout to set foot on the Holy Land. It is hardly less interesting, with its fertile soil and activitw to one who has finished the tour f)f that region of sloth and sterility. Mr. William I".. Curtis, the versatile writer, gives the following excellent description of Jaffa : KMMI) TKAXSIT I'AST AND KflTKr -'SS TiiK (M.i> woKi.n IN rill. \i:\\ CKNTrm' liiff.i is a ritv i>l tin- most aiuii'iii tvin, ami tiu' primitive costumes of tlic patriarchal aye ami most mmU'in improvements arc broii<;lit together licro in striking contrast. At the market-iilacc one can see the genuine East, a conil->ination of Oriental features and colors, from sunrise to simset, with a crowd of people chattering at each other in all the languages of Asia Minor — country peasants, foreign pilgrims. Bedouins, Arabs, Syrians, l'"gyptians, Turks, and Jews, mixed up with camels, mules, donkeys, goats, buffaloes, cows, oxen, dogs, parrots, ducks, geese, hens, and chickens, all talking or screaming or braying at the same time, each trying to attract attention to himself or the wares he has for sale; every product of the semi-tropical region; everv fabric made by (Irieiilal hands: luscious fruits from the or- chards in the neighborhood, lemons, oranges, pomegranates, quinces, apples, apricots, strawberries; every variety of vegetables, and cheese, poultry, and eggs, figs and olives, olive oil in pigskin bottles, and petroleum in tin cans; meat of all kinds, dried fish, everything that anybody wants or that can be jiroduced or procured in this country is s[)read out upon the ground, either with an old woman or a young one trying to persuade people to buy, and screaming at them at the top of her voice. It is a novel and interesting sight. The outdoor market of Jaffa furnishes as fascinating a picture as an artist can find anywhere in the East. laffa is famous for her gardens. They extend around the city in a belt aliout seven miles long and a mile and a half wide, produce two or three crops a year, and have been producing since shortly after Noah's ark landed on Ararat. Indeed, one of the legends is, that Jaffa was not destroved like the rest of the world, or even injtned, by the flood. I caimot (luite make out how it escaped, but plenty of old Moslem moidahsliere will explain the phenomenon if you will come over here and listen to them. The soil seems to be inexhaustible, and an artesian basin under the city is a never-failing supply of water for irrigating purposes, which is pumped into distributing reservoirs by curious old wheels. All the way through Palestine the Jaffa oranges had been our delisht and almost our salvation. An Oriental breakfast is exceedingly light and not always palatable. It is a most welcome sound which one hears, in the middle of the forenoon, from some muleteer anxious to turn an honest penny, — "Tree lollang, lialf a franci Tree lollang, half a franc!" Three oranges arc none too many about that time in the morning, and half a franc is a price the tourist is quite willing to pay. At Jaffa these same oranges arc furnished fresh from the tree, with a bit of stem and leaf still attached to each, in proof that they have not been long in the market. The price here is very low, and one may buy a Ijasket for a sliiliing. JAFFA: FAREWP:LL TO PALESTINE 2S9 but is quite likely to find the bottom half of the basket filled with leaves or brown paper. Anything can be bought here that is sold in Palestine. The bazaars are built out to the street as in most Palestine towns, and the picturesque groups of people before them give a pleasing variety even to one who has already made a tour of the interior towns. Whatever one has failed to buy else- I.VDDA where, will here be offered if not thrust upon him, the venders pressing one to the very wharf. Jaffa is a kaleidoscope of all that the departing tourist has witnessed. lie finds it a delightful, heterogeneous, whitcy- yellow, jumbled up city, a review and reminiscence, a reeking, wriggling, howling epitome It puts salt on the tail of his Palestine experiences, and holds them in his hand for a single fleeting day before they spread their wings ami are gone. Joppa would have a more proniiiunt plact- in Hiblical his- tory if the Jews had been fond of tin- watir. In all the time that they occu[)ied Palestine tluy rarely Ii.kI possession of much of the coast. To the north about Acre, 'I'yre and .Sidon, the descendants of the old Phoenicians held the ports, 2qo v\\\: (M.n \\(>i>:i.i) in iiii-: m:w ci:xirRV aiul to the smith the rhihstincs had the coast phiin. The Jews were essentially resiilents oi the mountains, and this was their woui.n i\ iiii: \i:w CKN'rrm with wluun w i- luul become aciiuaintccl diiiiiii; our tour in tlic lloly Land. The)- would oladly hav^e come on board with us hail the tjuarantine permitted, but this coukl not be, so we partetl from them at the dock. Nowhere, save at New York", dill we leave so large a company of those w hom we felt to be our friends. OFF FOR ALKXAXDKIA CHAPrER XX RAPID TRANSIT IN TMI-: ORIENT The means of travel in Eastern lands are so various, ami the experiences of roads and changes of language are so intcr- estin:i,l) IN llll. Nl'.W CKNll'KV simply cats cxorxthiiii; in si^ht. ,iiul has so little discretion about his catiiii;- that he ncctls to be watcheil when there is an abundance, lest he e.it soniethini; injurious to himself, or consume too much ot otherwise wholesome food. A string of camels is usually preceded by a donkey bearing the jx'isonal effects of the dri\er and some of the articles for the camp. Following him comes the driver, leading the first camel, and the halter-rope of each animal is tied to the saddle of the camel preceding. The pack saddle is made of two stronsi forks of wood, not unlike the bottom of a huue saw- buck, to which transverse poles are made fast. This rests upon a thick pad, covering the camel's two humps, and is not commonly removed when the camel is temporarily relieved of its burden. Of all living creatures, probably the camel is the most ungraceful. The popular story told to tourists is that the camel and elephant ran a race to see which could get into the ark first. The elephant won, but the camel got his back up about it. It is sometimes added that the camel had to hump himself, or he would never have gotten in at all. It was his usefulness rather than his beauty that made him worth saving at the time of the deluge. The ungainliness of his humps is accentuated by his neck and head, which seem to be put on at perfectly absurd angles. But despite the downward curve of the neck as it leaves the body, the head is carried so erect that the nose is practically horizontal. The halter is some- times surmounted by a little feather rosette on the bridge of the nose, which is the camel's one pretense of artistic trapping. Even in his best estate the camel seems ancient; and as he ordinarily appears on the road he looks decidedly moth- eaten, and a survival of departed glory. We looked long for a young camel, and came to doubt whether such a thing exists, or ever has existed. After long observation we dis- covered a few of them ; but even these looked old and prema- turely solemn, as if already anticipating the burdens which they must bear. As I did not ride a camel in Palestine, I do not know their favorite names, but imagine them to be Solo- RAPID TRANSIT IN THE ORIENT 297 mon and Abraham, with an occasional Noah or IMethuselah. In Egypt the most frequent name is Rameses II., and now and then there is a Thothmes or Menephtah. The camel continues to grow for sixteen or seventeen years, and is said to live to the age of forty or fifty. The latter seems to me a very conservative statement. I saw very few camels that did not look to be nearly as old as the Pyramids. And in truth, the animal's ancient appearance is not misleading. He is ancient. AN AKAI5 CAMl' being one of the .jldcst mammals now living. Fossil remains of an animal somewhat larger than tlu: camel, l.ut otherwise practically identical, have been found in Miocene rocks. It is impossible to express his anti-iuily in years, but they must reach into the millions. We have found the five-toed ancestor of the horse, and are able to trace the vast and .scattered cat- tribe toward a common ancestor; but the e.unel st.mds alone and self-sufficient. lie needs no ancestor; lu- i> an ancestor. The camel ruminates his f...,d and has a .second stomach, but does not possess horns or hoofs as do other animals that chew the cud. There are different branches of the family, some with one hump and some with two. Naturalists aie 29i) nil oi i> woKi.D IN iiii'. m:w eKxirm' unable to (.Iccitlc throui^h what line of ilcsci'iit the camel's o-oneaioirx' shoviKl be tiaced. llis aiiti(|iiit\- stietches back so far beyoiul the dawn oi histoi)- that he has no family tree, lie stands anuMii;- the beasts oi the eaith a kind of Melchize- dek. without father or mother or any assigned be^inninq; in history. The camel has a very earl\- place in recorded human his- tory, rharaoh presented camels to Abraham. When Isaac metlitateil in the fields at eventide, and thout^ht of his future bride, he looked up, and behold, the camels were coming with Rebekah. The Midianites who were traveling from the land of Gilead to I^gypt, and who bought Joseph from his brethren, were traveling Avith camels laden with spices. Job possessed six thousand of these beasts. The camel is reputed to be a very patient beast, but he is ex- ceedingly resentful, and sometimes gives a total stranger a pass- ing' kick, throufjh mere wantonness. Now and then he takes a man in his teeth and gives him a good shaking. In general, I doubt not, the man deserves it. The camel's gait is as uncomfortable as one can well im- airine; nobodv ever gets used to it. Those who have ridden camels all their lives rock back and forth at every jerk of the great clumsy beast, whose strides seem so ill adjusted to each other as to make one fear that the camel will rock himself to pieces, and break his rider's spine in twenty places. A mem- ber of our company was importuned by an Arab to ride his camel, and the American replied, "No, I do not want to read the Koran this morning." This bit of American humor was a revelation to the Arab, but he saw the point and laughed heartil}-. The reader of the Koran sits cross-legged on his prayer-rug and rocks back and forth in what appears to the Occidental a most unreasonable fashion. Perhaps the Arab learned the attitude through experience in camel-riding. The camel carries from four hundred to a thousand pounds upon his back, and with a rnoderate load will make anywhere from twenty-five to forty miles a day crossing the desert. The dromedaries, which are the fleetest of the camel tribe, RAPID TRANSIT IN THE ORIENT -99 sometimes make a hundred miles. At Luxor I saw some British soldiers mounted on the fleet animals. They were the finest looking camels that I saw anywhere, well groomed, and full of life. The rid- ers were not graceful, but they certainly were pic- turesque, and attracted much attention. It is not generally known that an effort was once made to introduce camels into the United States for purposes of commerce. Many of them died upon the first intro- duction to America, but a few survived, and their descendants are still to be found in New Mexico and Arizona. The Secretary of the Interior, in answer to a rec[uest for information concerning these Ameri- can camels, furnishes me with this extract from the report of the Governor of Arizona, lion. 1.. ('. Hughes, for 1S93: III tliL- ve.n- 1855 the W;ir DrpartiiRiU iiniporlcd fnmi Smyrii.i, Asia Minor, a iiiimi)cr (if camels. Tiicy weri.- laiKJcd at Calvtstoii, ami froiii tliere taken overland to Los Angeles, for the purpose <>f ir.insportinj; mill tary supplies from that point to the various coasts of southern Califurnia and Arizona. Kn route, however, a number of these camels were lost or strayed in the vicinity of the A>,'ua Caliente, ahitut 75 miles east of the Colo- rado river. The remainder were delivered at thiir destination, Imt iheir use was found inipracticahle. the sand liein^ too sharp for their (eit, and considerable hostility beinj^ e.\cite«l against their use amongst teamstersand freighters, wlio took occasion to shoot them, on the ground that their pres- ence caused a statnpede of their horses and mules. ( )f tlir camels taken to K1D1N(J A CA.MKL Photograpli by Miss Grace A. Ross 300 111! oil) wtMsi n IN Till-: M'w ii'.Nrruv California, ;i luiinhcr was i\'Uiriu'ii to Arizona in 187(1, lor ilic pnrposr of iransporting; ores from the ihcn rich Silver Kin;,; mine. Here, a^ain, tlieir presence was olijected to by teamsters and freighters, and the hand was turned loose between the Gila and Colorado rivers, through whicli section they have been roaming ever since. In 1883 nine of the baml were cajUured by Pajiago Indians anil turned over to a circus. At that time tliere were twenty head in the herd, eleven of which were two or three years old. The Arizona stock is said to be a great improvement on the original. Col. IX K. Allen, of the Yuiiia SoitincL makes this statement with reference to the subject: At the present time there are ninety-seven of them in the mountains and hills east of the Yuma and Harqua Hala wagon roads, away from the haunts of white men and Indians. They have roamed mostly in the Eagle Tail Mountains and adjoining ranges, where but few, if any, human beings ever go. It is estimated that if none had been killed there would now be not less than one thousand. They are very wild and vicious, and make a hard fight when caught or even cornered. The look upon the camel's face is habitually sad, and his accustomed utterance is a groan. He groans when he kneels down, and groans when he rises, and groans under his often too heavy burden. But he is the most valued of all the ani- mals of the Orient, and is the best cared for of their beasts of burden. A crood camel is said to be worth about four hun- dred dollars, an amount of money not often possessed by an inhabitant of Syria or Egypt. When a married man dies, his widow is accustomed to say, "I have lost my camel." All other women know thereby that she places a high value on her departed husband. So much for the camel; now for the roads which he must travel. The roads of Palestine are not all bad. The visit of the Emperor William resulted in the temporary improvement in the roads over which he was to pass, particularly from Haifa to Nazareth, and from Jerusalem to Jericho. This is precisely the thing thai has been done in that country from the remotest ages when a king was expected to pass over a given road. In the prophecy of Isaiah this custom is referred to in anticipation of the coming deliverance of Israel from the Babylonian exile. The prophet stands as a herald in the wilderness crying : RAPID TRANSIT IX THE ORIENT 301 Prepare ye the way of the Lord, Make straight in the desert a highway for our God. Every valley shall be exalted, And every mountain and hill shall be made low: And the crooked shall be made straight, And the rough places plain. Isa. 40: 3, 4. Although these roads have had no work done upon them for several years, and are now falling into a sad state, they are still practicable for carriages. The horses furnished to tourists in Palestine are reasonably good, and in general better than their riders deserve. It is a land where feed is scarce, and few horses are overfed, but even those that look poor are often strong and reliable, and are much better beasts than I should be willing to furnish to inexperienced riders. Most of them are stallions; mares are considered too valuable for this work. People who have never mounted a horse at home come to Palestine and bestride a strange animal, expecting by some sort of miracle THIS WAV l-(»l< rill, l-VKAMII)^ Photograph by Miss Anna M. Matthews T,o2 rill' o\Ai \\oK\.\) IN rill'. Ni;\\ ci'.NirKV to .K\]uirc the abilit}- to ri^K' in a single day. No one ever rode on blisters Inil lilanu-d his horse. The horses, too, liave saddle j^^alls, and have good reason to blame their masters. Some of the horses are vicious, but not commonly so. Usu- all>- the rider who is thrown by his beast accomplishes that result bv nervously mterferiiiL; with the horse in a bad strip of road. Left to himself, the h(-)rse wouUl pick his way, and he would probably be grateful if the rider would tlismount and walk over the worst portions of the journe}'. It would be better for the rider, too, and woukl rest both him and his horse; but if the horse is starting down a rocky place, and the rider jerks at his tender mouth, and the horse, endeavor- ing to do the unreasonable thing which his rider compels, stumbles on a loose stone and throws him, the rider imagines himself to have just grountls for complaint against the horse. The person contemplating a tour of Palestine should do a little horseback riding in advance as preparation for the journey, and when there should be gentle with his beast. I felt a special sympathy for the Palestine donkey. Over and over as I rode through that part of Samaria that once belonged to Issachar, 1 thought of Jacob's description of his son, to whose descendants that land was assigned. "Issachar is a strong ass crouching dowm between two burdens" (Gen. 49: 14). It seems impossible to overload a Palestine donkey to the point where his owner will pity him. A donkey is worth from two to ten dollars, and costs his owner little trouble for care and keep. He crouches habitually betw^een two burdens, and patience wath him has long ceased to be a virtue. If I could organize a strike among those who suffer from too long hours and too great burdens, I would begin it with the donkeys of the Orient. Sometimes the donkey is loaded so that he is almost hidden beneath the burden, yet he bears it with a patience that is almost jovial. In Egypt I got a picture of a donkey loaded with green hay and two boys on top. He Was one of a procession of such little animals and they jogged very merrily along the road from the Pyramids to Cairo. RAPID TRANSIT IN THE ORIKNT 303 It is hard to take the donkey quite seriously, perhaps because he himself seems so profoundly serious. To see a tall man on a tiny little beast with preposterously large ears, impresses one at once as something so disproportionate that A IJONKKY AM) HIS I.OAI) IN l(.\l'T he can hardly refrain from smiling. The natives, however, do not smile, but jog along in the most unconcerned fashion. However, only one full-grown person can ride a donkey at a time, so if a man takes his wife with him In- rides and she walks. .She does not complain, and the donkey does not complain; they are both accustomed to it. I have a |)icture of a man and the two women of his houseliohl trudging along to their farm in the i)lain of T'sdraelon ; the- ni.m is smoking ^o.f I'll I" (MP WOK 1.1 ) IN 1111 Ni:\\' CKNTURV his piiH' aiul is content, the wonK'ii also sccni to he happ)-, and so to all appearance is the donkey. The prophet Balaam was riding;- aloni;" in this way, and the two ser\'.ints were waikini;', when the ass turned out of the waw aiul ]-?al.iain beat the ass according; to the custom of the counti\- then antl now. Then the ass crowded against the wall and crushed Halaam's foot, which served him right. Again Balaam retaliated by beating the ass. This, too, was according to custom. The ass fell down under him, and he beat the ass the third time. I do not wonder the ass pro- tested. It is not to me so much of a miracle that that one ass spoke, as that so many others ha\'e borne like treatment without verbal i)rotest. It is enough to make a dumb beast cry out in righteous indignation. It is quite enough to justify the sending of an angel to rebuke the ill-tempered owner of the patient little donkey. It is recorded that Balaam said unto the angel of the Lord, "I have sinned; for I knew not that thou stoodest in the way against me." It is to be hoped that he treated his donkey better thereafter. The donkey has a habit of braying at the most unexpected times, and with a voice whose volume is in direct contrast with the size of the donkey himself. The bray is such a .pathetic thing, as though it were the pent-up protest of generations of overloading and of cruel beating; yet there is something very comical about it. The donkey seems to have no object whatever in braying, except to free his own mind, and if it affords him any comfort, surely he is entitled to it. Apropos of the linguistic ability of donkeys, Balaam's and the others, it may be well to discuss the question of language in oriental travel. Almost any kind of knowledge is likely to serve a man who possesses it if he waits long enough for an occasion to use it. Hence, probably, it would be well for a man to know all the languages of all the countries which he visits. But, spite of some minor discomforts, and probably some real depriva- tions consequent upon his ignorance, one gets on very well with no language but his own. It is interesting to find how RAPID TRANSIT IX THE ORIENT 305 superfluous any other language is, and how one's own is often at its best where no one understands it. How valueless, after all, is much of our talk! One feels it when he witnesses the abundant amount of jabbering done A MODIiKN HAI.AAM by foreigners, and the pitiful accomplishment resulting there- from. If he wants anything done, a gesture and iiakshish accomplish it; but alas for him who has no bakshish ami can only talk! Talk is cheap. Baedeker kindly gives one a few sentences in llu- lan- guages of various countries, and groups them acc<")rding to situation. There is a sample conversation: "In the custom house," another "In the shop," and one " \W the way," and so on, and there arc |)iirases to use with rich men, poor men. 3O0 rill- vH.n woKi.i) i.\ lui: nkw cknti'kn- be^'f'^ar nun, .uul tliicvcs; but T nc\-cr used any (if tlicni. My nuilctccr ijavc nic a few lessons in Arabic, thus: ■"Spik Knglisii, l;ool1 mornini;-; spik Arab, neharak said." "Spik English, good evening; spik Aral), neharak saideh." These words I learned, and used industriously, the mule- teer, whose name was Caleel, giving me frecjuent review les- sons, so that I bade him good morning forty times before noon, and good evening as often before the sun went down. In like manner he reviewed his own scanty stock of English, and gave and obtained compliments therewith. On this wise he began : "Saddle very good, Mis'ah l^arton?" "Yes, Caleel; saddle very good." "Braidle very good?" "Yes, the bridle is very good." "Horse very good?" "Yes, horse very good." "Caleel very good?" "Yes, Caleel very good." This completed the list, and he repeated it for his own satisfaction : "Saddle very good; braidle very good; horse very good; Caleel very good; Mis'ah Barton very good." In this way we carried on animated conversations. If I wanted to go one way and he another, I stopped and said : "Caleel! This way!" If he thought he knew better, he said: "No, no, Caleel very good," and led the other way. If I wanted to know the name of a village, I paused and asked what I thought might be its name. "Caleel, Ramallah?" And he replied : "No, no! Bireh." 1 cannot say that I found Caleel's knowledge of English too meager for my needs, or that I greatly mourned my lack of a greater command of Arabic. There are a few words which one hears so constantly from RAPID TRANSIT IN THE ORIENT 307 muleteers and dragomen that he finds himself using them before he knows it, but this habit has its perils. The guide- book tells us to answer a beggar by saying, "This Lord give unto thee." but the Apostle James has told us how useless CAI-I'.l".l. it is to say to a man, "Depart in i)eace, be ye wanned and filled," without making any contribution to his needs. A much more effective word is that used ))>■ the tiragomcn to beggars and peddlers, "Imshie." ihis word will actual!}- send them away at times. Constantly ami->S Till nl 11 Wi^RI n IN i'lll- NKW CKNTl'RY \-cr\- n.ist\- woiil; not a nice word for a laci\- to use." The huly tlnis atUlressecl lias been w oiulcrint;- over since just what she said to him. 1 liave no reason to l^elieve that the word involves any intlecont meaning;-, l)ut it is an expression of con- tempt, or as one peiUller saitl, "\'ou sa\- Imshie to a dog, not to a man.' ' Another expression whicli our people found themselves using was "Yellah." It is an exclamation which teamsters employ in addressing their horses, and one which the horses seem to understand. The tourist who has labored long in the endeavor to secure a reasonable speed by the use of the whip, finds himself, all but unconsciously, shouting "Yellah" to his horse. It is on record that a company of religious tourists once approaching Beirut were met outside the city by several of the missionaries. As they were entering the city, the travelers, wishing to make a good impression, whipped up their horses, calling to them, "Yellah! Yellah!" The mis- sionaries listened with horror, for yellah is said to be derived from Allah, and to be a Mohammedan driver's swear-word. These incidents illustrate the truth that a man may well be careful about meddling with foreign languages, or coveting the gift of tongues. A little knowledge of French is of some assistance to the tourist. The hotel bill of fare, when printed at all, is com- monly in French, but the main thing which one wants of a bill of fare is to learn the price, and no great knowledge of French is required for that. If he is laboring with a table d'hote, all the languages spoken at Babel would not avail him a particle. The established order grinds one monotonous way, and neither the prayers nor imprecations of the traveler whose time is short will hasten or alter it in the slightest degree. In general one commands more respect by shouting his orders in good plain English than in unintelligible French. Nine-tenths of it is in the bakshish, and if on the Continent, there bakshish becomes "pour-boire." There is a proverb, which goes the rounds of betting circles, where a man's opin- ion counts for little, no matter how emphatically expressed, RAPID TRANSIT IX THE ORIENT 309 unless he is willing to back it with a wager, that ''money talks," Money talks in the Orient. The man who has a coin in his hand can make himself understood, though he does not speak at all; but he who has no money may speak with the tongues of men and of angels, and it will profit him nothing. It is interesting to find how widely English has become the language of commerce. Almost every respectable store provides itself with an English-speaking clerk. The sign "English spoken" is a very common one. The English is not always good, but it is sufficient for commercial purposes, and is in use in many places where the sign is not displayed. But if no English is spoken, and one wishes to make a pur- chase and knows how much he ought to pay, it is not at all difficult to buy what he wants. He may point to it or pick it up and ask in English the price. The first question would be understood no matter in what language he asked it, and the answer also is likely to be intelligible, and the price demanded preposterous. He may wish to ask a few other questions, as to its material and its genuineness. A single word with the rising inflection will bring an emphatic affirma- tive in any and every case. Silk? gold? silver? antique? The owner swears by all his gods that it is fine gold, or pure silver, and that its antiquity reaches back into the twilight of the human race. If the purchaser feels sure that the owner is telling the truth, he will see the advantage of being able to carry on so much of conversation. About all that he now requires is to come to terms on the price. The owner wants three francs. The purchaser, if he is wise, has priced the same article in two or three other places, or learned from some fellow-traveler or dragoman the amount which really ought to be paid, which is probably a franc and a half, so he offers a franc. Then tin- owner dinn'nishes his price tr w ill cither take it or refuse it. This whole transaction ni.i\- he acconiplisheil without the purchaser's knowing;- a word in any language save the Kngiish, and he is ijuite as likely not to be swindled as if he understood and believed all the owner claims for the article. This is not (]uite the way one likes to ilo business, but it is the way in which business is done in the (Orient. He who would pay the full price demanded would be even worse swindled than he often is when he pays a third or half. Still, it is true that not every Oriental salesman is a swindler, and one will find it to his advantage not to be too suspicious as well as not to be too credulous. I am not seeking to discourage any one who is disposed to learn foreign languages. A few Arabic phrases will do no harm, and a little French is a convenience, but neither of these is strictly necessary. One may make the tour of the Mediterranean and come back having used only the English language, and not be conscious of having suffered any great loss of pride or of pleasure by his ignorance. The time is surely coming when the English language is to be in common use in all the important Oriental centers, and even now it is far from being infrequent. Humorous stories are often told of those who attempt to use the foreign languages abroad. One of the ladies of our party meeting a nun at Funchal, and being unable to talk Portuguese, tried French. The efTort was not wholly a suc- cess, for the nun's French and hers were about on a par. With a sudden thought she asked, "Do you speak English?" and the nun replied, "Why, bless me, yes; I am English!" And so the conversation got on better. I heard another story of an American in an Italian city, who had laboriously committed to memory a few phrases in several languages. Meeting a man carrying a basket of oranges, he asked him in Italian, "How much?" but the stranger made no reply. He then asked the question in French, with like result. Then he tried in German, and at last asked it in Spanish. As the owner of the oranges still RAPID TRANSIT IN THE ORIENT 31 ^ maintained silence, he thus meditated aloud: "He is not Italian; he is not German: he is not French; he is not Span- ish; I wonder A\hat he can be?" to which the man with the basket repHed : "I am an American citizen, and I am taking these oranges to the hotel to my family. Now who are you, and what in the name of common sense are you jabbering about?" All such illustrations show the truth that, while other lan- guages have their value, English is far from being useless in foreign lands. At Smyrna one of our ladies stopped before a confection- er's shop, Avhere the proprietor was engaged in preparing for shipment a box of Turkish Delight. He had to do his work in the street, for the shop had neither room to nail a box nor swing a cat. She was interested to learn where he was send- ing the candy, and waited while he prepared his marking brush. As he was slow about it, she asked him, "Where are you shipping the box?" He did not reph-, aiul she asked, ''Do you speak English?" He looked up with a disdainful look, and holding his marking brush aloft with a contemptuous gesture, said: "I spik ze London English; I do not spik ze Hamer-r-i- can 1 I may remark, in passing, about the kind of money which the tourist may use to advantage. United States gold will go anywhere, but in countries where the values are merely approximated, five dollars in gold has only the purchasing value of an English pound, so that there is a small loss in the use of American gold. It is also wasteful to use .Vmcrican silver, and it is less acceptable than the gold. The value of a given sum can quickly be reduced to dollars: hut in pay- ment, I^nglish money \\ ill be accepted (|uite as readily, anti effect a small saving to the American tourist. Not only so, but l-'rcncli money goes cjuite as well as Eng- lish in I'alestine, and being in lower denominations will i)ur- chase more. In \'ery many places a napoleon will buy as much as a sovereign, and a franc is as good as a shilling. It 3>-' Till' oi n \V(^Ki 11 IN 'I'lii: \m:\v ckni'I'ry is well, tliorct'orc, iov a tourist to supply himself with some Eniilish auil uiore I'^ench mone5^ The nearest thing to uni\-ersal coinage which we have yet is the American Express Company's checks. If these are drawn in ten-dollar denominations, they can be used almost an\whcre. The hotels and larger stores receive them in pay- ment of hills without discount, but where they are cashed otherwise, they suffer the same discount as American money, the ten-dollar check yielding two pounds. This loss, how- ever, can almost always be avoided by a little foresight as to the time and place of cashing. Money will never be very plenty in Palestine while the Turkish government continues to rule there. The rate of taxation is supposed to be about ten per cent, but it some- times rises to twenty-five or even forty per cent. There are four forms of land tenure: crown lands, religious holdings, royal grants, and freehold property. The first embraces most, and the best, of the land. A farmer pays heavily for the right to till the soil. When harvest comes, the govern- ment first gets its share, which is heavily increased by the added demands of the tax-gatherer himself; after that, the owner or tenant gets what he may. Fruit trees are so heavily taxed that many owners of trees have cut them down to escape by so much the rapacity of the government. This is one great cause of the sterility of the land. While it does not seem possible that this land can ever have sustained a large population, it has been, and might again become, considerably more fertile than it is to-day. I do not expect for it any great industrial or commercial future; but something vastly better than now prevails may yet come to it. What it needs is this: better government, better roads, better schools, more cleanliness and regard for the laws of health, less dreaming and theorizing, anrl more practical Christianity. CHAPTER XXI EGYPT, THE LAND 0¥ THE SPHINX The most important equipments for a tour of Palestine arc physical endurance and a pocket Bible; the first requisite for sight-seeing in Egypt is a dress suit. In Palestine you rise at five, breakfast at half-past, and start at six for a long day's hard work. In Egypt you start at ten for a leisurely drive among the ruins, or mount a donkey for a two-hours' canter to the tombs; and after luncheon and a chat on the veranda, visit the bazaars in quest of scarabs and picture postals, and return to the hotel for four-o'clock tea, and then watch the snake-charmers on the veranda until it is time to dress for dinner. Sight-seeing in Palestine is strenuous; in Egypt it is social. The sights in Egypt all lie near the Nile, and are readily accessible by rail or boat ; but those in Palestine lie far in the interior, and are reached by industrious, and almost perilous, riding over indescribable roads. In Egypt one has sleeping-cars, and a table-d'hote dinner waiting at his destina- tion; in Palestine he endures hardness as a good soldier, sleeps in tents, and finds the hotel at the end of his route plain and bare, but usually comfortable, a befitting provision for arduous pilgrims. When a company of tourists divides, half going to Palestine and the other half to Egypt, and comes together again on the ship, you can tell to which party an individual belongs as far as you can sec him on the deck. The one group looks sleek and well fetl and wears scarabs and Nubian beads; the other has a nine-fold coat of tan, a sun- burnt nose, clothing faded, armor dented in the fray, and a general air of subdued triumph. The C'eltic made two trips between Jaffa and Alexandria. a week apart. The pilgrims who cf)mposed the second and smaller section were those who spent tin- longer time in 3'3 31} TiiK oi n \V(M^i.ii i\ I111-: \i:w c'l'.X'rrm' ralcstiiic. ami tlicsc w imi> ctMHiKMisatc-il Idr tluir briefer stay in Ki;ypt In- ha\ in^;' better weallier for laiuliiiL;'. Those who composed the hist sectiiMi stnicl< a ht'a\)- sea, ami the first two hiimlre(,l who went ashore liad a uniciue experience. rhe\- were lowered one by one in a cliair to the deck of a scow , wiiieh was towed ashore by a steam tug. It was a very slow and tedious process to lower the passengers singly over the side of the ship, and consumed several hours, the scow pitching and tossing all the time, until nearly every one on board was seasick. Steamer trunks had been lowered to the barge, and on these the passengers were expected to sit; but most of them moved the trunks end to end, and used them for bunks. The conductor, knowing how long the tourists must wait, and desiring that they should lack no comfort, had lunches put up in neat pasteboard boxes, and lowered over the side. Unfor- tunately a wave upset this benevolent plan, and caused the boxes to drop on deck, breaking several of them open. One good woman had lifted her head just to see the success of the attempt to lower the boxes. When the break occurred, several ham sandwiches fell near her, and opened like the petals of a rose, and three or four boiled eggs broke about her like a shower of confetti at a wedding. She gave one shriek and buried her face, and the subsequent proceedings interested her no more. "The White Star Line is about to build another great ship," said one young man, trying to keep up a cheerful con- versation. "The name must end in the letters ic. They want a name. Can you suggest one?" "Name her the Seasic," came a faint reply. It would give me pleasure to say that on this occasion all the men were heroes. In fact, however, there was little that any one could do for another. But most of them refrained from adding to the torture of their companions. But there was one man, a reformed elocutionist. He had broken away from the awful past, and on the ship had so conducted himself as to win confidence and esteem. No one EGYPT, THE LAND OF THE SPHINX 315 knew the secret of his former habits. There had been cele- brations and entertainments on board, and he had resisted temptation and remained inoffensive. But in that dread hour, when he had the passengers at his mercy, tlie old appetite returned. He secured a place where he could maintain an A I'lCTURESQUE LANDlNfi Photograph by Miss Anna M. Matthews erect position, and recited, "I am dyin--, I-.L,^vpt, (l\in-!" lie still lives. The passengers were too sick to pilch him over- board. After that day he resumed his former demeanor, and only those present on that occasion knew how the old appe- tite overcame him, and how far he fell. It was dark when the loading was conipK-U-il. and late when the boat reached shore; and as (Hiar.uUine regulations forbade stopping in Alexandria, the passengers had to l)e taken by train to Cairo. Miuli lime was consumed in getting the train readv, and the journey occupied all that was left of 3i6 rill' (^i.n wori v in -nil' \i:w ciinitrv the ni^lu. It was an experience niorr pleasant to look hack upon than to enjo\- at the time. Later, at a nieetiny; on hod\\\ the ship, the first kul\- antl o-entlenian who went down in the chair were presentetl with medals, anil the latly especialK- was much ])raised lor her heroism. I was a member of the second company, and it was a fine, sunshin\- morning when we landed. The sea was reasonably calm: the barges pitched and tossed somewhat, but few on board were sick, and these speedily recovered when we reached land. Our train was waiting, and we were soon placed in our compartments ready for the ride to Cairo. The first landmark sought out on approaching Alexandria is Pompey's Pillar, of which every one has heard, Pompey's Pillar is the only important ancient relic to be seen in Alexandria, and that is not very ancient, as things go in Egypt. Besides, it is wrongly named. Nothing very certain is known about its history, except that it is not what it was once popularly supposed to be, the monument over the tomb of Pompey the Great.. It once bore a statue of the Emperor Diocletian, erected in 302 A. D. Its height, vari- ously given, is eighty-eight feet, of which sixty-eight feet are in the shaft. Lest we despise Pompey's Pillar for its new- ness and insignificance, however, let us remember that this shaft of red granite was brought here in a single block many hundreds of miles from Upper Egypt, a task which would not be despised by modern engineers. Except for Pompey's Pillar, there is little in Alexandria to interest the modern tourist, so we were told; and as Alexandria was sour grapes for us, we were willing to believe it. We saw^ little of it save the Pillar, the wharf, and the rail- way station. One thing at least we must remember about Alexandria, that it was a most important seat of learning in the early Christian centuries, and those immediately preceding. Here the Old Testament was translated into Greek for "the seventy" nations; and so became known as the Septuagint. This was the Bible which the apostles used and quoted. EGYPT, THE LAND OF THE SPHINX .V7 Here, too, was that great library whose loss is the constant o-rief of scholars. In fact, there were three libraries, and all were burned. The largest was that consumed in Caesar's time; but the one best known was that destroyed six centuries "^i^l^-*-; "«!.- 1-().\II'KV S ril I AK later by the Caliph Omar. "11 these writings agree with the Koran, they are useless," said that old bigot; "and if they disagree with it, they are pernicious." So the books went iijj in smoke. Perhaps they were not so very valuable, after all. It is better to mourn over their loss than to have trans- lated them and found them commonplace. There are books enough of that sort in modern times without li,i\-inv; others thrust ujion us from anti(|uit\'. ,^iS nil-: OLD woKi.i) IN nil m:\\ ciiniikv At AU'x.uuliia wo were near Rosctta. on one of the mouths of I he Nile, where, in 1799, Boussard, a iMeiich engineer, while exo.ivating near-h\- at Fort St. jiilien, thscovered the famous Rosetta Stone, now in tlie l^ritisli Museum, which provecl the key to unlock the literary and liistoric treasures of the I^gyptian inscriptions. It is a stone three feet nine inches in height, by two feet four and one-half inches in width, and eleven inches in thickness. At the t(->p are part of fourteen lines in hieroL^lyi)hics ; below are thirty-two lines in another, and then unknown, species of script; while at the bottom are fift}--four lines in Greek uncial letters. The Greek, which was easily readable, told that the stone was set up in 195 H. C, in honor of Ptolemy Epiphanes, by the priests at Memphis, on whose behalf he had remitted certain taxes. It was soon conjectured that the other two inscrij)- tions contained the same wording, and some years afterward Champollion, a French scholar, succeeded in finding the com- bination which made it possible to read the Egyptian monu- ments. It is well to remember this as we begin the ascent of the Nile, and before we look upon the hieroglyphics them- selves, even though we pass by Rosetta itself as of little present interest. With a real effort I refrain from cpioting the statement of Herodotus, that "Egypt is the gift of the Nile," an omission wdiich should entitle this book to distinction. The statement is true, nevertheless. Whoever misses the quotation here can find it in almost any other book on Egypt, and I make this reference to it simply to indicate that I do not doubt it. The Nile rises in the fertile interior of Africa, and flows through a barren region. It has a valley two to fifteen miles in width, walled in on both sides b}' the desert. Because of its extreme narrowness it is common to represent Egypt on maps that are cut into two i;r three sections, and placed alongside. At the mouth of the Nile is Lower Egypt, or the Delta. The Delta is so named from its resemblance to the Greek letter J, which is a triangle, and is made by the numerous mouths of the river, of which only two are navigable. At EGYPT, THE LAND OF THE SPHINX 319 the apex of the Delta is Cairo, one hundred and thirty miles above Alexandria. It was a low, flat country throu-h which we passed up the .ftSnr^ta;** fc-,B.„ritIl^t,"*'-^-*^''-.TS.ir^-. 4^ ^^:®l5;=;-!t*3Est/-;?rw'jr^rK^T,.v(Vfc;y^r,=7x;rg-,.,i ■ :•- -•>.•-.•'-** •-■ THli KOSKTTA STOXK I>>eItaor tlic Xiic. but one of <;reat fcrtilitv. Tin- viiia'^'s were composed of tumbk-down mud huts, Uiat looked a.^ if they would wash away in the first r.un that fell upon thei -•m. ,^-0 'I'llK OLD WORLD IN 1 1 1 1'. M.W Ci:N'l"l'UV The train nio\-cil sKnx ly for an express tiaiii with no adver- tised stops, and it was two o'chick when we reached Cairo. We bes^an to iKi the town at once w ith a brief drive about the city, stopping;- for four-o'cKick tea at the Grand Continental liotel. Here we found mail awaiting- us, and also the friends from whom we had been separated for a fortnii^ht. It is quite astonishing to find how glad you are to see almost an\- one on shore whom you have known on board the ship. When you get on deck again, you care very little for each other; but after you have been separated for two weeks ami meet on shore you are eager to exchange experiences. So we found it as we came to the hotels in Cairo, and the reunion on the veranda was merry with greetings, and thrilling with tales of adventure. Cairo is the largest city in Africa. It has a population of nearly six hundred thousand. A very ancient town was located here, but the history of Cairo itself does not go back of the Middle Ages. Its former name was Babylon, a name given it by the Greeks. It was captured by the Arabs in 640, and made the capital, against Alexandria, where Christian influences were strong. It was virtually the seat of the ca- liphate until 15 17, when it was captured by the Turks. There was an Egypt of the Pharaohs, and its cities were Memphis in Lower Egypt and Thebes far up the Nile; there was an Egypt of the Ptolemies, and its memories are thick about Alexandria; but there was also an Egypt of the Caliphs and the Mamelukes, and there is the nondescript Egypt of to-day: and the great city of these is Cairo. In Egypt one begins to realize that the hotels of Palestine are hardly up-to-date. I presume they are as good as they ought to be, considering the patronage, and ours were com- fortable, though not luxurious; but in Egypt the standard is quite different. There are half a dozen hotels in Egypt that are better than anything of the sort in Jerusalem. They have broad corridors and ample parlors, besides great open plat- forms a little above the level of the street, shaded by unique awnings made of party-colored cloth, sewed together in fan- EGYPT, THE LAND OF THE SPHINX ?2I tastic Oriental patterns, where people sit and gossip and drink tea. To this platform come the snake-charmers and the dancing- girls, and just below are little boys who turn cart- wheels and look up for bakshish, and who nimbly dodge the concierge, an imposing functionary who paces up and down, THE STREETS OK CAIRO glorious in his six feet of stature and his yards of gold lace. There is just one thing in which the Egyptian hotels arc still behind the time — and that they share with all the hostel- ries of luiropc. including London — they are very mcagcrly equipped with elevators. Shepheard's in Cairo has a "lift" that will lake u]) three guests at once; but guests arc dcsirrd to walk down. Cairo is the greatest winter resort on earth. It is thronged with tourists and witli winter guests. Tlic jjresence of the ,^.'-' Tin: oi.i> woKi.n IN rill m:\\ ci'.xtuky hitter ij^ivc to llu- hotfls tlu-ii" liaUil of case aiul liixui}-, and in."\ko it tlillicult to secure an earU- hreal^fast. Hut it is a delii^litful chant^e from beini; wakened at fixe o'eloek by the hell-mule. One may sit on the veranda of Shepheard's and see the w (nld jj;o by. The tourist sees so many forms of life there assembled th.it he wonilers \\h}- he has thoui^ht it neces- sary to l;o ainwheie else. Me finds a sufficient reason, how- ever, when his first hotel bill comes in, and is i^lad if he has monev enouiih left to sjet awav. I have read that the streets of Cairo are narrow and crooked. So they are in the old part. lUit the part where the tourist lives has wide streets and boulevards, comfortable carriai^es, and every appointment that belongs to luxury. Vou may take a carriat^e — and there is a <^reat man in gold lace who is ready to call the carriage and see you inside — and find almost an\-thing in Cairo; or, if you prefer, whatever you want, save onl}- a few such trifles as pyramids and temples, will be brought to the hotel, and spread out before you on the veranda. We visited the tombs of the Caliphs and the Mamelukes, and took in the various mosques of the city, but these had become somewhat obvious. We went to the quaint old Coptic Church, where they say that Mary stayed while Jesus was an infant in hLgypt. A service was in progress, and a very quaint one it was. The service lasts three hours, and is conducted in a weird, minor chant with responses. The people are huddled inside a lattice-work partition about the altar, and stand, leaning on crutches, for there are no chairs, and a crutch is a relief in standing. We were conducted about freely by a priest or attendant, and shown the black- ened pictures of saints, which are objects of veneration, and then taken down to the crypt to the shrine where the Virgin is said to have reposed. This old church stands in a crowded part of the town, among quaint old houses A\ith lattice windows, and is at the end of an alley closed with a gate. An old man opens this gate with the queerest old wooden key imaginable. I hope EGYPT, THE LAND OF THE SPHINX 323 that this direction will enable the reader to find the place, for it is the best I can give. But there will be no trouble in find- ing it. Every one goes there. We then went to the Isle of Roda. Here Moses is said to have been found. Whether this is true or not, it is an THE MINAKKT OK KI.-A/.HrK interesting island, reached by a pole ferry from Cairo. Here one may see, what later he sees all along the Nile, the sakieh, or water-wheel, for drawing water wilh camel or buffalo. The animal, blindfolded, goes round and round, and the water is raised with a wheel, to which are fastened earthen jars. A yet more po])ular means of drawing water is the shadoof, or well-sweep, at which men W(m1< all day long, ai)parenlK- ne\er stopping. This water is rin oi.i) woKi.n i\ iiii' \i \v ciixiTin' him lor oii^litcon tl(>ll.irs. Ilr jiKiposctl to tixkc tin- pair with him l(M' tlic attcrnoou, .iiul compari' it with othc-rs that he mii^ht sec. The propiictor cheerfully consentetl, aiul he took them alont;". not lea\-inL; his name or any (lei)c^sit. lie IkuI a hartl time later in the ila\- in tnulini; the shop from which he hail taken them. One ma)' buy in L'airo for ten to twenty dollars, and openly, what they offer him in Constantinople with threat THE XII.OMETER, ISLE OF RODA secrecy at four times the price, a manuscript copy of the Koran. Here, too, he may buy a presumably genuine Damascus sword. The genuine old blades are rare. The local test is the sword's ability to "eat gold" ; that is, one is to rub a gold coin up and down the blade, and if the wavy lines of the tempered steel scrape off a little of the gold, and it shows in the lines, the process of tempering has been that which the ancients employed. Of tlie process of imparting these wavy lines, Sir I'rederick Pollock says, in his article on Swords, in the Hritannica: The "damascening," or "watering," of choice Persian and hidian arms is not a secret of workmanship, but is due to the peculiar manner of making EGYPT, THE LAND OE THE SPHINX 327 the Indian steel itself, in wliich a crystallizing process is set up; when metal of this texture is forged out, the result is a more or less regular wavy pattern running through it. Xo difference is made by this in the practical qualities of the blade. From Cairo one may easily visit Memphis, the famotis old capital of Lower Egypt. The site is near Redrashen, twenty "A TWISTED KIM) OF KAG, AND A (iOATSKIN WA11:K-BAG" miles up the Nile. That city and Sakharh. with its intercst- in.fT step-p}'ramid, may be visited in a single day from Cairo, the hotel putting up luncheon to take along. I deeply regretted that the shortness of our timr ditl not permit a visit to the exhumed treasure city of rithoin, in the land of Goshen, one of the two cities — the other i)eing Rameses — constructed by the enforced labor of llu- Israelites. Tile site is eighty miles from Cairo toward Sue/., in the luart of the fertile latid of ancient Goshen, and has been exhunud by Xavillc. A singular fact of the construction of this cit\' 3-^ 1111 (U h WOK 1.1) IN 1111 Nl W TIN ITKV is. that it srcnis to have been erected all at once, or nearly so, bv a great number o{ laborers. The bottom courses of brick arc made with straw; the middle courses with chopped Nile reeds; and the upper courses are of bricks without straw — a mute wit- CAIKO WATEK-CAKRIERS ness of the injustice that has become proverbial, and to which the Israelites were subjected toward the close of their bondage. The great excursion from Cairo is that to the Pyramids and Sphinx. Formerly it was necessary to ferry across the Nile to reach the Pyramids, and this undertaking was the more difficult because of the depth of the mud along the river, making it necessary often to go far out of the way for a land- ing, and then to be carried on the shoulders of the boatmen. But now a fine bridge spans the ancient river, and the approach to it between majestic lions is most impressive. EGYPT, THE LAND OF THE SPHINX .^^9 We had our first view of the Pyramids by moonlight. There is an excellent road, built high above the surrounding swamps, and lined with cassia-trees. It is said not to be a prudent thing to drive out to Gizeh after night on account of malaria and possible brigands. We escaped both. There is something most imposing and appropriate in the sight of these great stone wedges in the night. They belong to the serene 1;K11J(;K across TilK MI.E, CAIKo and silent moonliglu. They are at home in the silence and dimness rather than in the fierce glare of the desert sun. If we were glad to go out by night, nuicli more so was our driver. It gave him an excellent chance to steal uncured hay from the carts along the road. The drivers who took us out in the daytime, having no chance to prey upon hay-wag- ons, had no alternative but to prey on us. While (Mir driver was stealing the great armfuls of grass, and treading th.iu down before his scat, he was not asking us for bakshish. Along the roatl as we journeyed, hnndn-ds of Moslems were .sleeping. It was the season when the}- visit the graves of their ancestors, and sleep in the open air. We had seen them about Cairo in the daytime, engaged in tlu-ir v.ui(Mis ()bser\- rni'. OLD \\oiv:i.i) IN mi. m:\\ f their companions if I was not as liberal as she had been. This argument was made in the most insinuating manner [possible, but it did not move me; nor was I induced lo buy bogus scarabs and worthless 331 I'ni'. OLD woKi.n IN nil m:\\ ci-.Nirm copper ctuiis as sou\ I'liirs of thr phut'. In all this I was a L^rcat disappoint iiKMit to tlu' tluxt- iiumi who hclpi-d mc up, and o\'cn tlu' wat(.M-l)o\-, wlio r.iii aloni;' against my protest, looked at UK- leproachl'ully. Two-thirds of the way up one of the Arabs said to me: " T Mark Twain." "Oh. are )-ou?" said I, "I liavi; lieard of liim before; wc are fellow-countrymen. lie proceetletl to exj^lain that he was not the Mark Twain of whom I had heard, but that he had inherited the name through his ability to perform the feat which Mark Twain describes in "Innocents Abroad": that he was the grandson of the man who helped Mark up the pyramid and who ran dew n the side of one pyramid and to the top of the next in eight minutes. I had read the story, but I let him tell it to me, and I fell visibly in his good opinion because I did not instantly show enthusiasm over what he had to relate. He tokl me mine would be the privilege of seeing him run down the slope of Kheops and up the side of Khefrem in less than ten minutes. I told him I had no tloubt that he could do what he said, for I had read Mark Twain's book, and knew Mr, Twain to be a truthful man. Then he tried to make me doubt that he could do it, all the time strongly asserting his ability so to do. It was a shrewd sort of logic which he employed, but it did not affect me in the least. It was enough for me that Mr. Twain had seen it done, and 1 was quite as well satisfied un'th his testimony as if I had witnessed the feat myself. However, when we got to the top, he began to strip, the others abetting liim, ami doing their best to get my companions to wager on the result; but none of us were disposed to risk our money on a sure proposition, and all of us were interested in seeing how they were affected by our perfect willingness to believe them. They did their best to make us incredulous. They described the difficulties of the undertaking. To be sure he had often done it, but possibly this time he could not. The_\' invited us to see how far it was, and how steep the other pyramid. Moreover, as the EGYPT, THE LAND OF THE SPHINX 335 covering still remained near the summit of the smaller pyra- mid, it was apparently much more difficult to ascend than Kheops. I rejoice to state that we triumphed over their importunities, and also that we did it with a dignity and indifference that quite dismayed them. We put it on a CLI.\I1!1N(; THE I'Vl^AMIDS f^round which they could not easily fail to appreciate We could not doubt llu.-ir truthfulness. If tlu\ .ill uiiitc-d in affirmin<,f that this Arab, Mark Twain, could perform this feat, we knew it must be true. It was really pathetic to see their disappointnu-nt . As we began the descent, the crestfallen native said to me: "You make Mark Twain feel very bad to-day." I assured him that 1 had been endeavoring with all my might to make him happy, and that 1 was (piite unwilling to see him risk his life. I'll! Ol.n WOKI.lt IN rill. M.W Cl'-NITKN' ■"Hut," lie said, "I want to do it." "Oh. well," said 1. "you may s;"0 hack ami make the run after _\mu have helped me down, .nul while I i;o over to the Sphinx. " "Hut I want you to see it." he said. "I tlo not care to see it," I said. "I do not doubt your truthfulness. " SECTION OF THE GREAT VYKAMID The lazy fellow knew just how to render the least possible assistance in the descent, under pretense of doing his duty. He had a way of turning his hand back over his shoulder so as to make it quite impossible for me to use the shoulder itself in springing down from rock to rock. At one place where the ledge was rather narrow, T inadvertently jumped against his hand, as I would not have done had he not been shirking. His thumb cracked, and he drew it into place with a snap. I feared that I had really dislocated it, and expected a damage suit, but justice compels me to state that he did not make the injury, real or fancied, the occasion of any excessive extortion. I was not quite certain whether it EGYPT, THE LAND OF THE SPHINX 337 was a trick or not, but I was sure that if I had hurt him it was entirely his own fault. The Pyramids of Gizeh face the four cardinal points exactly, and the well of the Great Pyramid looks straight toward the north star, both in the angle of descent and in its line with the compass. One may explore the interior with- out great difificulty. We went only a little distance in, and Till-. SI'HINX NO L()N(iEK HAS A SKCKKT Photograph by Miss Anna M. Matthews sent one of our helpers down to make a bright liglit in the chamber below. As usual, two of thcni went down, lliough wc repeatedly called to one to come back, and each demanded a shilling for the descent. The plan of the p\ lamid is well shown on the accompanying diagram. I |)ai(l all three of the men. though I haliinx: one that it is fmiininc. and the other that it has a well-guarded secret, two inntually improbable conjectures. The Sphinx is undoubtedly mascu- line. If he had a secret, we should h i\c learned it ; for before we got away a crowd of our people arrived on camels, and the ladies quizzed him most enlicingly. Samson liiniself would 340 rill' *'i n woki.d in I'lii: m'.w century ha\c tolil liis secret li.ul [hey so teasetl liiiii. luit tlie Sphinx has iu> secret; its UKMiiiiiL; is well luulcistood. It is the itnaL;e o( liannaker, or Horus, the sun-s^ocl — the L;od of the (.lead sun come to life. It is the inia^e of the morning", the s\nibol of hope. It stands expectant of a new day after eacii night, w hen the sun-god has gone to the underworld, and is making his journey through its twelve stages. As one stands before this god of the rising sun, this open-eyed prophet o( the daw n, antl remembers its mute witness of the unclouded morning for nearly four thousand years, and sees its calm, perpetual gaze, still in expectation of another sunrise and yet another, he makes for himself a new measure of eternity. While we were settling with our dromedary men, our guide presented his claim, and it was far from being a modest one. We told him that right before our very eyes, at the spot where he had imposed himself upon us, was a sign saying that guides were not permitted to ask gratuities. He replied that the sign applied to authorized guides, and that he was a special guide, vastly superior to those. After all our experi- ence with guides, this was a surprise, for while we had not doubted that he would expect a bakshish, we had been com- forting ourselves all the way with the memory of that sign, and saying that here was one place where we could not be held up for a tip; which shows how much we still had to learn about things in Egypt. "But," he proceeded, "you paid well the men who helped you up the Pyramid." "Yes," I said, "for they really helped us." "And you paid the dromedary man and gave him bakshish besides." "Yes, for I hired him." "But your driver hired me," he said. "Come with me to the carriage," said I, "and I will find out about it," The driver had gone to sleep, but I wakened him to a sense of his dutv. EGYPT, THE LAND OF THE SPHIXX 341 ''Did you employ this man to go as guide for this party?" I demanded. The rascal confessed it. "Then," said I, "you maj^ pay him, and you shall get your legal fare, and not a piastre more." Even then the guide could not believe that we did not mean to pay him. He followed us to the carriage and stood beside it. He assured us that we would be remembered by the whole company of guides as ungrateful and dishonest; and the driver abetted him by holding a tight rein until we actually compelled him to drive off. We left with a kind of guilty feeling, for such experiences are not pleasant, and it is much easier for one's peace of mind to tip such scoundrels and let them go without making a scene. But this time we resolved to stand for our rights and refuse to be robbed. It has become popular to advise people not to ascend the pyramids because of the excessive fatigue attending the effort. My advice is the contrary. It is well worth the effort unless one is feeble. I wearied of climbing long before we had ended our journey, and let others ascend to cathedral roofs, over long and dingy stairways. But I would on no account have failed to go to the toj) of Kheops. The climb is not excessively wearisome if one keeps liis lielpers in control. The tourist must refuse to let them lift till he is ready; and so perhaps he can keep them from wrenching his arms out of their sockets. Once on the top, there is seen such a contrast as nowhere else can greet the eye. The elex'ation is so great, and the land so level, that one can see for many miles. On one side Hls the fertile Delta; on tin- other is the barren desert. In this direction is verdure antl life; in the other stiTiJity and death. Here is activity and mox-cment and sound; \onder is silence and eternal inactivit\-. litre is the city with its commerce and thrift; there is the waste of sand, slretciiing on inter- minably. Here the un uttered mes.sage of history may be read in the calm face of the Sphinx; yonder is the suggestion *» 1 ^ .5 }- rill', ni n wuKi 1) IN 1111. Ni:\\ ci:n rim- aiul impulse ;iiul hope ff a future yet unknown, in the river, the raih-oad. the city. Life and death, past and future, the worlil that has been and tlie worUl to come — one may have a vision oi them all (vom the tpli.in sleeper, but the conductor makes the beds, as he does also in I^nglanti. Wc passed a fairiv comfortable night, though the saiul sifteil in at the win- dows and reminded us of the crossing of the alkali plains of America. As we proceeded on our journe}-, we passed near two cities of little interest in themselves, but of great importance to the archc-eologist, by reason of recent and uniipie discoveries. These are Tell el-Amarna and ( )xyrrhynchos. We were near Oxyrrhynchos, whose mfxU-rn name is Hehnesia. when tin- train passed through Ikni Mazar. 123 miles above Cairo; ,M4 Till" o]^^ wdKi n ix I'lii Niw iixrrm' aiul at IVt Mauas, ii)0 miles troin C'aiio, \vc were close by Toll ci-Aniaina In the lattei' have been discoxered an ininuMise nuniber of euneifetrni tal)lcts dating' from the a<4'c just ])rccctHn^" the ICxodus. It is perhaps the most important v)t' all tliseox'eries in I\L;')'pt, and settles forever some once vexed questions about the relatic^is of l\L;\'pt and Hahx-lon, and the art of writing;' in the time of Moses. Whatever fool- ish assertions men may make hereafter, they will not say again that the art of writing" was unknow n in Canaan in the age when the first books of the liible are supposed to have been written. These tablets were found in iS.Sj, in the ruins of tlie foreign office of tlie King Khu-en-Aten, whose former name was Amen-hotep IV., and who established his capital at this place in opposition to the powerful priesthood of Thebes, and carried on his reaction against the innovations of the Hyksos, or Sheplierd kings, and his o\\ n innovation in the worsliip of Aten, the god of the sun disc, against that of Amen, the chief deit}- of Thebes, Many of the tablets are reports from Palestine, which at this time was an Egyptian province. While we did not sec Tell el-Amarna, we saw wliat was better, many of the tablets which have been fouiul there. They are of clay, twu) inches to a foot in length, and are written on both sides and some of them on the edges with the wedge-shaped letters similar to those employed for seven hundred years in Babylonia and Assyria. I have secured an illustration of two of these. The larger one is a letter from Abi-milki, governor of Tyre, t(^ the king of Egypt, reporting that he believes that one Zimiida of Sidon has caused much hostility against Tyre, has made war on him, aiul is nr)w pressing him hard. He asks for wood and water for his city, and for help to protect it. He sends by the messenger who bears the tablet five talents of copj)er and other gifts for the king of Egypt. He reports that the king of Danuna is dead, and that his brother reigns in his stead; one-half the cit\' of Ugarit has been destroyed by fire; tlie soldiers of the Khatti have departed; Itagamapairi, governor of Kedesh, and i\ziru I'P THE XILK 345 are fighting against Xann-awiza. All will be well with Tyie if the king of Eg}'pt will only send a few troops. This will serve as a sample of the letters, which deal almost exclusively with political affairs. There are three hundred and twentx' or more of them, and the\- gi\-e us much informa- tion about the political life of Eg\-pt some time before the Exodus, and still more of those countries then tributary to A TELL EL-AMAKNA TABLET. LETTER l-KOM THE (JOVKR.NOK OF TVKE Egypt. Egypt ruled over Palestine and much adjacent terri- tory, but luld these provinces by slender cords; for man\- of the governors report a state of affairs bordering on anarchy, and call for help. Egypt was under the innmiicc of ihe civilization of ])abylonia, as is shown by the character in which these letters are written. The discoveiy of these tablets, made in 1SS7 by a peasant woman, is regartled as tin- most important of all contribntion'> to tin- early piililical hi^- tor\- of western Asia. At liehnesia, or ()xyrrli\ nelio^, the discovei iis aie o| much later date, and of wideK' tlifferent charactt r. ihis was once 7,\6 Till-: oi 1^ woKi.i) IN iiii'. m:w ci:\Ti'uv a citv o{ (."hiisti.in priests, and was filKnl witli the seines and the writini^s o( (.'hiistian monies, of whom in tlic fifth Chris- tian ccntur\- there are saiil to lia\'e been ten thousand, besides twehe thousand nuns in the xMlhiije. Here have been found enoinituis nu.mtities of papyrus, ihitin;4 from the earl}- Chris- tian centuries, including personal letters, official documents, and fragments of classic literature. The most interesting of all is a fragment not larger than the i)alm of one's hand, on which are written certain alleged "sayings" of Jesus, believed b\- ni.un- scholars to have been derived from sources earlier than our written Gospels. A translation of these "logia" is as tollows : 1. .And lliin shall thou see clearly to cast mit the mote that is in thy lirother's eye. 2. Jesus saith, Except ye fast to tlie world, ye shall in nowise find the kingdom of God; and except ye keep the Sabbath, ye shall not see tlie Father. 3. Jesus saith, I stood in the midst of the world, and in the flesh was 1 seen of them, and I found all men drunken, and none found I athirst among them; and my soul grieveth over the sons of men because they are blind in their heart. 4. poverty 5. Jesus saith, Wherever there are .and tliere is one alone, I am with him. Raise the stone, and there thou shalt find me. Cleave the wood, and there 1 am. 6. Jesus saith, A prophet is not acceptable in his own country, neither doth a physician work cures upon them that know him. 7. Jesus saith, A city built upon the top of a high hill and stablished can neither fall nor he hid. It will be profitable for the reader who has undertaken to make the journey up the Nile by means of this book to spend a few minutes in reviewing the history of Egypt. The follow- ing outline of some of the principal points down to the close of the Nineteenth Dynasty may serve as a convenient epitome. Egypt was an old nation when Joseph was sold a slave. It had a history reaching back for centuries, and a civilization the highest that the world had then attained. Its priests had knowledge of arts and sciences, of mathematics and astron- omy, of sculpture and architecture, and its builders possessed the skill in practical mechanics which .still causes the world to UP THE NILE o4/ marvel. Egypt then had imposing; monuniciits and a govern- ment of wealth and pow lt. Fourteen d3masties had already reigned. The first ten of these had their capital at ^Memphis, r.M'NKUS CONTAINING "SAVINGS" OF JESUS near the Delta, and fmir had reigned at Thchcs, six hundred miles up the Nile from its mouth. l-^)r the lists of these dynasties we are indebted to Manetho, a i)riest of Lebennytos, who, at the instance of I'tolemy IMiila- delijhus, translated into (jreek the inscriptions on the I'.l;\ p- tian temples which gave lists of the kings. These he grouped into thirt}' dynasties. The grounds for di\'ision are \arial)le, 34^^ 'I'm; old world in iiii. m;\\ ei;Niim' ho\vc\or. .iiul tlu- chronoloi;)- is unccrt.iin, l)(.-caiisi.- it is not at all certain that soino of llu' ih-n.istics did not ox'crlai), sonic rcii^iiin^ in Upper antl otlicis in Lower IC^^N'pt. l''or this reason, and perliaps t'or otliers, scholars \ar\' widel)' in their reckonini;- oi the time covered 1)\- the earlier dynasties. The histor\- of ancient EL;ypt divides itself into the Old Rmpire. embracing;- dynasties one to eleven, beginning some- where from 4000 to 5000 H. C, and coming down to about 2200 li. C. : the MitUlle Empire, embracing dynasties twelve to sixteen, anil closing with the expulsion of the Ilyksos, a period of six hundred years, from about 2200 to 1600; the New Empire, extending from 1600 to about 950, and including dynasties seventeen to twenty-five; and the later Egyptian period, from 663 to ^^2, including dynasties twenty-six to thirty. After this came Alexander the Great, with whom all the world had to begin on a new page. This outline, beginning more than forty centuries before Christ, seems to take us back far enough. lUit before this remote beginning was a long prehistoric period, wliich lasted we know not how man)- centuries. What we know is, that when recorded history began, Egyptian civilization was al- ready practically complete. The Egyptians had art, religion, literature, and a political system, even in those prehistoric times, so remote that we can hartlly even conjecture their limits in years. The nomes, or districts, of Egypt naturally grouped them- selves into those of the Delta and those along the Nile, and so divided the counlr}- into Upper and Lower Egypt; and the kings who reigned over the whole land are commonly repre- sented as wearing a double crown. With this briefest possible outline in mind, we may con- sider a little more at length the more important of the periods whose events fall in the way of the tourist. Recorded Egyptian history begins with Menes. Even in his day there was a good state of civilization in the Nile valley, but the long, narrow land was divided Into forty-two IP THE NILE 349 tribal divisions, or nomes, a division that had permanent reco<^nition under the various unions that followed. Only a great man could unite so great a country, with territory so scattered. Menes was the George Washington who estab- lished the United States of Egypt. He is popularly referred MAI- ih'i- I-LL;\i>t. near the modrin El-Hirbeh. His dxnasty reigned, according; to Hrusch, from 4400 to 4166 \\. C. hut tliese dates aie more (-)r less uncertain. Some schohirs assign much earh'er dates. Tlie Secoml Dynasty, which was probalily rehited to the THE TEMPLK OF LUXOR h'irst, had nine kings, and reigned three liundred and two years. The tombs of tiie kings of these two dynasties have been discovered at Abydos and Nakadeh. The Third Dynasty began with a usurpation, and con- tinued for two hundred and fourteen years. h^'om the first two dynasties we have few if any extant monuments; but with the third we begin to find memorials, including the step- pyramid of Sakhara. This dynasty reigned at Tliebes. The Fourth Dynasty was that which built the three great pyramids, named for its kings, among who were Kkufu or UP THE NILE 6^> Kheops, Shafra or Khefrcn, and Menkara or Mycerinus. This dynasty reigned for two luindred and eighty-four years, and its wealth of monuments places us on more solid histori- cal ground than any preceding. The chronology is still uncer- STATUKS OK KA.\li:SES H AT I-IXOK tain. Miss Edwards dates the erection of Kheops "about 420G Ji. C." Tin's is nnicli earlier than the dale here suggested, hut a thousand years more or less amounts to very little in Kgypt. The I'ifth Dynasty came from I',Ie])hantine at the southern extremity of L'pper Egypt, hut .Memphis still nourished. The .Sixth iJynast}' was from Memphis, and during its sway, primitive art reached its zenith, and concpiests and eonuner- cial relations were enlarged. .\S- .M 11 WOKLl.) IN I'lll. M.W (. l.NHRV riu-ii follows ail eclipse. Tlurc was civil strife and a breakiiiL; up i^i oKl lelaliiMis. The dynasties ninnhering seven to ten. which were oi l\Ienii)his. display art fcM'nis so similar to those oi Thebes, which are numerically later, that we are not sure how far the\- ma\- h,i\e been contemporary. THK IIHIHKST OBELISKS IN EGYPT, KAKNAK What we know is, that with the Sixth Dynasty the Old Em- pire ends, and that with the Eleventh, whose capital was Thebes, the nation awoke as from a lethargy; and with the Twelfth a new period of glory was at its flood. In this dynasty the Sphinx- was erected, or if earlier erected, was now reconsecrated by Amen-emhet III, in honor of the god of the sun-disc, Horus. UP THE NILE 353 The Thirteenth Dynasty gives us another chasm, caused by the invasion of those peoples of whom we know so little and talk so learnedly, the Hyksos, or Shepherd kings. There were eight or ten of these monarchs, constituting three UAMESES II AS III; riioi (,111 III-: oi'Ght to look statue at i.uxok dynasties, and they had their capita! and scat nf power in the Delta, while the Tluhan piincfs niaintaiiu'd a tributary government. Th<- llyksoswere of Semitic origin, and at fust devoted themselves more or less to devastation ami icono- clasm ; but later they became naturalized, and adoptcil the forms and religion 'of the country. it is believed tut it wmiUl sct'iu better to nu' to i)ay the tirst \isit to the temple at l.uxor. aiul 'J,\vc the idea <-»f vastness in one's mind some- oppoitunitx- to cxi)and. The temple of Luxor was i)uilt In- Amcnophis TIT, a klw^ of the ICii^htocnth Dynasty. It occupies the site of a temple still older. According^ to his usual custom, Ramcses II pos- sessed himself of this temple and claimed it as his own. addint;- •greatly to its extent and ornamentation. Its total length is two hundred and eight>--four yards. If one can get some unit of measure in mind by which to make this distance real to him, and then remember that this is a relatively small temple, he will be able more nearly to appreciate the immense area covered by some of these Egyptian structures. Six colossal statues of Rameses II, two of them sitting and four standing, adorned the pylon of this great edifice. Two of the sitting figures and one of the standing ones now remain. The sitting figures are forty-five feet in height. In front of these were two fine obelisks of pink granite, one of which is now in the Place de la Concorde at Paris. The P>ench engineers had a hard time moving this monolith, which is sevent)--five feet high, seven and one-half feet scpiare at the base, and weighs two hundred and twelve tons. The one they took, however, is smaller than that which remains. The famous obelisk in Central Park, New York, is sixty-nine feet high and weighs two hundred and twenty tons. It was transported to this country in 1877, and is the sixth in size of the known obelisks in Egypt. The obelisk of St. John Lateran, in Rome, is the highest in the w^orld, being one hundred and five feet in length, and is sui)posed to weigh five hundred tons, but this is in three pieces. The largest mono- lithic obelisk now .standing in I'^gypt is in the temple of Karnak, and is ninety-seven and one-half feet in height, and its diameter at the base is eight and one-half feet. When one sees how^ abundant such monuments are in Egypt, and how readily the ancients undertook contracts for their erec- tion, and remembers that even modern engineers count it a respectable achievement to transport one of these monstrous IP Till-: NILE 359 shafts and stand it upon end, he gains largely in his respect for the mechanical genius of the old-time Pharaohs. A mosque which stands over a portion of the old temple of Luxor and the adjacent buildings makes it somewhat difficult to continue excavations. They are still di" pi. Of the temi)le itself, so dwarfed l)\- llu- pro\imit\- of vaster ruins, 1 am glad lo find this word of y\melia \\. Edwards: M'o riiK oij) \\oK\.\) IN nil-; m \\ c l,^nl^:^• ■•ll tiu- wiioiobuiiiiiuii could lie traiisporlcd IxKlily to some point Iic- lueeu Mempliis and Siiit, wlieie the river is bare of ruins, it would lie eiitluisiastically visitid. Here it is eclipsed liy llie wonders of Karnak and the western hank, and is undeservedly neglected. Those parts of tlie original building which yet remain are indeed peculiarly |)recious; for Anieii- iiotep ill w. IS one of the great builder-kings of Egypt, and we have here one of the few extant specimens of his work." Whenever ;i kino built a temple to some ood he was Hkel\' to L;i\'e the images of the i^otl his own face. Tliis was con- sidered a compHment to the god. It is liard to tell where religion ended and vanity began with the old Egyptian kings. WHien a king died, his friends made images of the god Isis w ith the face of the dead king. Indeed, the identity of the dead man and the god of the dead merged themselves in a manner most confusing even to specialists. At Denderah one finds images of the goddess Hathor with the face of Cleo- patra. But to do the old monarchs justice, perhaps it was politics instead of vanity that they mixed with their religion. It was a [)rimitive and effective union of church and state, certainly, which made a subject worship the face of his king whenever he bowed before the image of his god. All the monarchs of Egypt were handsome men according to the recognized standards of beauty then in vogue. Who of us might not go down to posterity as an Apollo if he had power to chop off the artist's head? Even in this day, in which the artist ])rofesses to "paint the thing as he sees it, for the God of things as they are," and the camera does its mercilessly truthful work, there is such a thing as idealism in portraiture, or some of us wotdd stand less frequently before the lens. Far be it from me to say that the Egyptian artists were guilty of flattery; but he who wrought under the sword of Damocles might be forgiven if he exercised charity toward the wrinkles of his majesty, or mollified the redness of his nose, or threw into the shadow the wart upon his chin. Cromwell scolded the artist who eliminated the wart from his cheek, and cried, "Taint me as I am!" The inference is, that the artist at once proceeded to insert a wart, and that Cromwell expressed .satisfaction. Hut who dare say that he UP THE NILE ,^6i KIKST (ATAKACT OK Till. MLli. TKM I'l.K OK IMS, AT VHll.M (Courtesy of Mr. Frank C. Clark) was not pleased when the artist made ihr w.ni the tiniest shade smaller than it really was? Kameses II w.is foml of havin^^ his picture taken; and we have no conleinp'>'ary cnii- plaint that he did not resendjle his portraits. It is too late in the (lav to ask the artist^ to insert the wart if there was 362 1111 ol 1' WUKI.D IN rill. M:\\ LKNll K\' one. \'\\uc has ils statutes of limitation. Tt is not fair to tell Kanicscs to his niuniin\- tliat he is not as handsome as he thought himself to l)e. Let us rather l)elievc the artists to have been truthful, and Rameses to have been modest, even thou;.;h we si^h o\ei" t)ur own lack of similar advantages to make ourselves beautiful in the e\-es of posterity. I roile about Luxor on a donke\- in the micUlle of the day. A street fair was in ])roi;ress in the nati\e part of the town, and \'ei;"etables and other commodities were for sale; but ever\- one had stopped for his siesta and was stretched out and fast asleep. People were lyint; in picturesque attitudes wherexer there was any shade. LI ere, as nowhere else even in Lgx-pt, I was distressctl b)- flies on children's faces. Even when awake, the child makes little attempt to tlri\-e the insects away, and when he is asleep they settle in i^reat black rings around his eyes and mouth and nostrils. If diseases of the eyes can be s]:)read by the flies, it is simpl)- mar\'elous that an}' one, from the first cata- ract to the Delta, has not been blind since ciiildhood. There is nothing that distresses the visitor more than the sight of these little ones with their eyes unwashed and fairly hidden by concentric rings of flies. In Luxor one sees not only Arabs, but Nubians, black as ink; and these grow more plentiful farther up the Nile, The dress is picturesque, but there is not much of it. Luxor is noted for its relic factories. There are places where they grind out with astonishing rapidity scarabs and idols and everything in brisk demand by tourists. As forgers, they are unequaled since the days of Rameses II, and as liars they might well trace their descent from Ananias. Many of their imitations are so crude that even a few days' residence in Egypt enables one to detect their spurious character, but others are so well made that they would deceive the very elect. The manufacturers are said to impart an appearance of age to their scarabs by feeding them to turkeys. The attrition and chemical action of the turkey's gizzard will do as much toward aging a clay beetle as would three thousand UP THE NILE years in an Egyptian grave. Elvery guide and donkey boy is interested in the sale of some of these articles, and either has thcni himself or gets a commission at the place where you buy them. Besides this, countless venders run after you and display their brand new antiques with the most cheerful false- hoods about their hoary age. Al'PKOACH TO THIi TEMPLE OF KAKNAK. -- AVENUE OK Sl'HlN.XES "Did \-ou make this last week?" I asked, when shown some articles that were manifestl}- new. "No, no, last night," was the answi-r. which indeed seemed true. It would not be safe to infer that there are no aiiti(|ucs obtainable. A great many genuine articles are s(^ld in Luxor. and some of them are offered at lower prices than are tlemaiuled farther down the Nile. There is a law against the exporta- tion of anti(|ues, but inasmuch as the government itself sells them throuuh the museums, and the custom house oflicers are disinclined to burden themselves by st-arching for small articles, one may obey the s])irit S riiK OLD WDKi.i) IN iiii'; m;\\ ciixri'KV oiitcicd I-li^ypt 1 hail foiLMUlcn him, ami on m\- an"i\-al at i.uxiM- cngas^cd both a ihmkcy 1)(\\' ami a i;uidc. It was just before noon, and T had compK'ti-d my as^'reement with the ilonkc\- ho\- to be with me in the .d'ternoi^n, when, asking;' his name. I remembered m\' message. " Po ydu know a donkey bo}' named i\bdul?" I asked. lie (.lid; .uul I retlected that Abdul in I*"-p^}'pt is as com- mon a name as I'atrick in Irehunl, and that the chances of my I'lnding the pi-o])er recipient of the five dollars were small. Howe\-er. I toKl the bo\- to fintl Abdul and brini:^ him to me, .\bdul came. He was fifteen }'ears old, and wore a fez- like cap. to which later he added a turban, whose many yards of white cloth greatly changed his appearance. "What is your name?" I asked. "Abdul Mohammed," he replied. I reflected that were Moiiammed his other name, the lady would ha\e remembered it. "I only know the name Abdul," I replied. "What is your donkey's name?" "Never Tarry," he replied. The very name! Still. I thought, it is quite possible that so good a name might belong to more than one donkey; and I was not sure that I had not told the other donkey boy that I was seeking an Abdul whose donkey's name was Never Tarry, thus striving to mak-e the donkey's surname suffice for lack of the boy's. "Have you the cards of people wlio have ridden your donkey?" He said he had, but not with him. "Get them," I said. He ran to get them, and soon was back \\ith a pocketful of visiting cards and letters of recommendation. Sure enough, there was Mrs. Adams's card! "I want you and your donkey," said I. "There are several ladies in my party. You will take one of them." "No, I take vou," he said. UI' THE MLK 369 "I have a donke\- boy," said I. "Pay him somethin;^ and let him go," said he. "But I engaged him," said I. "But I go with you," said he. "Very well," said I. "Tell the other boy to bring a siile- saddle on his donkey, and vou ma\' take me." KA.\I-lli:AI-)li]J .Si'IllN\i:.s IK.Ml'l.h Ol KAKNAK The other boy, however, held mc to the contract. lie had no side-saddle, and did not wish his donkey to carr\' a lady. If I did not take him I must pa}- him. 1 w.is under the sway of Abdul. I paid the other boy in full and dis- charged him. I told .\l)(hil tint 1 had ,1 guide, and he protested. "You need no guide but Abdul," said he. "(iixi- him something and let him go." I waited till I had seen moic of Abdul's abiiitv, and at length 1 did as he desired. No man can serve two masters. It was enough for me to \n- under Abdul's control, and he v->/ o illl". oil) \\(^KI.I) IN Till". M:\V Cl'.NlTRV \voukl ha\c l.ikt'ii the L;uidc as an evidence (if my lack of con- fiilcncc in liini. I th(niL;lit I could compromise with the guide, and offered him half-price without worl-:. But he insisted on all that was nominatetl in the bontl, and T paid him all, and had Abdul alone. Abdul was an expensive luxury, but 1 should have hired him tlrst. Then Abdul told me that I was his master, and he was ready to do all things that might be requested by myself or friends. The ladies were not to seek donkey boys. He would find them. How many did I want? I hesitated about giving him the entire contract, but at length I consented. After luncheon we came out on the hotel veranda ready for a ride. Some forty yards in front of the hotel and toward the river is a wall, and below that wall the donkey boys had congregated. They were not permitted as yet by the hotel guards to come through. They were mounted on their little beasts, each trying to get close to the wall and near to the gate, that he might quickly secure a rider for the afternoon. When permission was given them to come through, it was as if Bedlam was coming on a gallop. The man who had not already engaged his donkey was pulled hither and yon, and had to extricate himself, sometimes by means of positive violence. Not all of the donkey boys were boys, and some of them contended over a possible passenger as Satan con- tended with Michael for the body of Moses. Into that mass of men and mules, Abdul plunged and brought forth, I know not how, a donkey with side-saddle and attendant. He settled one lady, and plunged in again. "You got nothing to do," he said to me. "I will find the good donkeys. Stand here." I am not accustomed to standing still while small boys do business for me, but after a few attempts, I let Abdul have his way, and a good way it was. He chose well and promptly. We were all soon mountetl and away. Then Abdul laid down these rules for my observance. "I your donkey boy; you my master. You all the same UP THE NILE 171 to nie like mv father. What vou tell me, I do. You sfot nothing to do; you tell me. You got nothing to do with guide; I your guide. You got nothing to do with other donkey boys; I your donkey boy. If any lady not glad for her donkey, if any lady not glad for her saddle, she tell you; COLUMNS TKMl'I.K 1)1- KAKNAK you got nothing to do, you tell nic. If you want to bu\- scarab, buy nuimniy, buy any somethings, you got nothing to do, you tell mc. If anybody show you any somethings and you want it, you got nothing to do; you give it back and icll mc." Abdul was a tyrant. Whenever I attempted to do au)'- thing for myself, he sorrowfully resented it. If 1 looked longingly at an offered article and held it as if to buy it. he said reproachfully. "() my master, I got nothing to do I" So I (lid m\- business tlirough .Abdul. If 1 saw a thinsj 1 Illl ol 1) WOKI 1> IN rill': M\\ CKNTURV liked. I l;".i\-o him .ilioul a third the price tleiuandcd, and he •^ot it for me. 1 susjiect I hat he reserx-ed for himself a com- mission, and I ilo not i^riul^e it to liiiu. He boui^ht my articles at reasonable prices, and if they yielded him a profit, ■^o mnch the l)etter. Sometimes we rode alone, and made ,MiMudA&M3>M:B SHISHAK AND HIS CAPTIVES purchases beyond the amount of silver which I had with me; but the people were willing to trust Abdul and an American. "Genuine! Antique! Show it to Dr. Murch! Send back money by Abdul!" was their frequent cry. Dr. Murch, the American missionary at Luxor, is the most frequently quoted man in all that region. His knowl- edge of Egyptian antiquities is as wide as his kindness is sincere. The offer to allow a customer to show an article to Dr. Murch goes far as an assurance of the owner's faith in its genuineness. The two names which I commend to Ameri- UP THE NILE 0/0 cans visiting Luxor, are those of Dr. March, the Christian missionary, and Abdul Mohammed, the Moslem donkey bo\'. Abdul entered into all my interests. "I hope you have good news from home," he asked, on the second morning. "Partly so," I said; "but I have a letter saying that my son, a year younger than you, has broken his leg. I shall be very anxious till I hear from him again." Then Abdul broke out into genuine Oriental lamentation. HVr'OSTVLE HALT. TKMPLE OF E.SNEH "Oh! oh! oil! oh I 1 am so sorry! My master's son! Just the same to me as my brother! My brother has broken his leg! My brother has broken his leg! Oh! oh! I think I shall not eat any dinner!" At intervals thereafter, Abdul sighed, and said. "My brother has broken his leg!" Ikit I must confess that when he returned to me after noon he gave no evidence of having fasted. I secured my donkey boy, or rather he secured me, as I have recorded, and he got me out of the mix-up in front of the hotel, and we started for Karnak. We soon realized that we were near the Tropic of Cancer, and only thirty miles north of the famous well, straight down which the sun shines at the time of the summer solstice. It was hot, and not only hot but dustw The weather had tiiat fcelin rill OLD woKi.i) IN rill'. m:\\ ci:\rim' arni'^ ticil lu-hiiul him aiul a rope arouiul his lU'ck. iXnioni;' tlicso fii^uros is mic. the cartmichc of whicli roads, "Kini;' (^1 Judah." ami which is e\iclontl\- intended for Ri-hoboani. ()f course it is not \.o he infeired that Shish.dv' actually Ictl these kiiiijs in this \\a\', hut onl\- tli.it he^ conc|ueiH'(l them, and exacted tiihute. Some of them, iiuleed, he may have bound; but the three strinyis of kini;s aie to be understood as a meta- phorical record of conquest. The law of compensation hoUls in tra\-el. Those of our part)- who had the shorter time in Palestine had time to t^o on to Esneh. and \-iew its tenii)le w ith the magnificent Hypo- style Ifall, to I'.dfu, where stands the Temple of Horus, most perfect of all the- ancient structures of Ei^ypt, and to Assuan and Phihe, with their famed relics, and the no less famous cataract of the Nile. These were not for us who had taken the long- ride in the Holy Land, but I am t;lad that the others saw them. We haci seen enough already to make us glad that we were in Egypt. But before we descended the Nile there remained for us one more day of sightseeing, the fullest and best of all that I spent in the Land of the Nile. RUINS AT KAKNAK CHAPTER XXIII THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS Most of the cities of ancient Egypt were built on the east bank of the Nile. Most of the cities of their dead are on the west bank. Therefore, he who would visit the Pyramids from Cairo or the tombs of the kings from Luxor, must cross the Nile. This the funeral processions did in the old days, and so thoroughly was the crossing of water a part of their thought of the passing of the soul, that beside the funeral voyage over the Nile, a special journey by boat across a sacred lake near the temples was often a feature of the funeral rites. Pictures of this, and of the voyage of the dead man be}-ond this life, are freely painted on the wails of the tombs. This voyage is closely related to the progress of the sun in its night journey. Disappearing behind the Libyan hills, and sailing through the twelve stages of the night, the sun [)aralleled the course of the dead man's voyage through its twelve watches, amid sea monsters and opposing spirits, to the judgment and the realm of bliss. The most interesting and instructive day which I spent in Egypt was that on which our j)arty made the journey to the tombs of the kings. We crossed the Nile in boats from Luxor, where thousands of funeral fleets had stirred the water before us — the boatmen, as usual, robbing us on the way — and found our donkeys waiting on the other side. Those people who did not fee their donkey boys liberally on the preceding day found themselves unprovided with beasts. To be sure there were other donkeys there, and their owners were glad of the chance of employment, but tlu' animals in general were inferior, and the economical tourist had to do this, his hardest day's riding, w ith a slower and less comfortable animal than he had the prc\'ious (la\-. 377 ^■>/ S niK OLD WUKID IN rilK NKW fl'.Nl'l ' U N If. h(n\cvcr. a iKinkL'\- hoy liad taken a fancy to his employer of tin- ila\- before, he eoukl no more sliake him off tlian I could lia\e L;(Uten litl of Ahcliil. One lady had deter- mined to chansjje donkeys, and so, w hen the boat came to land, stood hooking across tlie water and mud, and trying to choose a donkev before she landed; but her tlri\'er of the preceding tla\- saw her, and rushing into the water, seized her, and bore her hodil)- ashore. It was ludicrous, for she had no fancy for the Lochinvar act, and kicked and struggled with right good will while he splashed ashore with her; and though he planted her in the saddle, she beat him back by main strength, and regained her liberty. Her act established a new record for the American girl, and was rewarded by the finding of a donkey less forlorn and a driver less laz}- than the one whose sudden outbreak of energy was in such conspicuous contrast with his conduct when drawing pay. Our ferry landed us on a large island, but the branch of the Nile on the other side is narrow, and no boat is required to cross it. After a ride of about two miles, we came to the Temple of Seti I., built in honor of Amon. Since we have left the ruins of Karnak, I have courage to give some figures. The length of this temple is five hundred feet; its present width is one hundred and fifty-three feet, and there are evi- dences that it once was wider. Tt would be worth going up the Nile to see if there were nothing else ; but we could stop a short time only, for we were on our way to the tombs of the kings, at Biban el-Muluk. The first evidence which we had that we were nearing the tombs was the ap])arent genuineness of the relics offered for sale along the way. Fresh-baked scarabs and idols warm from the oven were no longer the stock in trade. We were getting to where it was cheaper to steal relics than to make them. Pieces of mummy cases, shreds of mummy cloth, and mummied cats and hawks of indubitable age, now began to make an appearance: and now and then we were offered a mummied hand or foot, swathed round and round in ban- dages thousands of years old. THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS 379 "Imperial Ciesar dead and turned to clay, May stop a crack or keep the wind away." The hand that once held tlie scepter of a Pharaoh is now liable to be wrenched off by some grave-robber and sold to a tourist, who must buy portable relics if any. I had no fond- OUR I'ARTV CROSSING THK NILE ncss f')r this kind of souvenir, but tastes differ. .Some of otir party acquired them ea^^erly. When we reached the custom house at New York the inspectors made some startlint; dis- closures. One excellent lady, whose trunk stood near mine, because, forsooth, her name begins with the same letter, and tile trunks are arranged in alphabetical order, was troubled in her conscience about reporting these things In the custom house officials. " riiev certainJN' wt're puiehaseii, " she saiil, ";ind so I 3^^^ Till" (M.n WOKl.D IN I'lll'. M:\\ CENTL!RY oiioht to ilccl.uv llu'iii; Inil ;it what rate do }-oii suppose they will chari;e chily upon ihrni?" *'Dut>- is chargeil on antiques," reph"cd some one wise in the hiw. "acconlini;- to tlie material of which they are coni- pcised. "Dear nie!" she said ; "what shall I say about the material?" The inspector was diving deep amouL;' her goods. "What have vou got in there?" he demanded, [jointing to a paste- board box carefully wrapped and tied. "Oh, that — that — " she said, blushing like a criminal caught in the act, "that is a mummied hand." "A what?" demanded the in- spector. "A hand; the hand of a mum- my," said she, gathering courage, but looking yet more guilty. "I don't understand." said he; "open it up !" "I am sure it is not dutiable," she pouted, tugging at the string. "I don't know about that; I want to see it." She opened the box and dis- played the contents, handling it gingerly by the wrist. "That— that thing!" said he; "bless you, miss, that ain't the kind of thing I'm after! I'd rather have your hand than the hands of all the dead niggers in Egyi)t." Much relieved, she tied up the box and stowed it away in its proper place among her finery. I read some years ago a chapter in the experience of Bill Nye, who professed to have bought a mummy in Egypt, and THE MV.M.MV <)1' SETI 1 THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS 3S1 to have discovered on getting him home that tlie mummy's arm bore the tattooed inscription, "Richard Maginis, Yalj)a- raiso. Ind., 1849." The truthful William opined that the mummy mines are getting about worked out. It would seem as if it would be so ; I understand that the railroad along the Nile, before it had established a regular base of supplies, used them as fuel, and found them desirable for that purpose. Alas, to what base uses we may return ! But there is no present indication of the exhaustion of the suj^ply. I was offered plenty of mummies. The general asking price of a full-grown one, warranted royal, was about forty dollars. 1 much doubt the royalty, but the genuineness of the mumnu- was beyond question. I would not think of buying one. They are so hideously life-like, so unnaturally natural, that one feels like making comments about them in their presence in an undertone. If a tourist had as much assurance as an Egyptian guide, and could talk as eloquently to an audience of one without the encouragement of a response, he might, almost in good faith, address to one of these cured and dried gentlemen the whole of Horace Smith's poem, some of whose lines continually come to one: And tho'i hast walked about — how strange a story! In Tliebes' streets three thousand years ago! When tlie Meninoniuni was in its glory, And time had not begun to overthrow Tliose temples, palaces, and piles stupendous, Of which the very ruins are trmicndous! Speak, for thou long enough hast acted dununy; Thou hast a tongue, — come, let us hear its tune! Thou'rt standing on tliy legs, above ground, mummy, Revisiting the glimpses of the moon, — N'ot like thin glujsts or diseml)()died creatures, But with thy bones, and flesh, and limbs, and features! Perchance that very hand, now pinioned llat. Hath lii)l)-a-nol)bed with Pharaoh, glass to glass; Or dropped a half-penny in Homer's hat. Or doffed thine own to let Queen Dido pass; Or lield, by .Solomon's own invitation, A torch at the great temple's dedication! 3S-: llll' ol.n WDkl.l) IN llll". M'.W CKN'n'RV Surclw it one is i^iwn Id iiKM.ili/.iii;^, and di.sj)Osc(I to write down. "So passes the ;^"lor\' of the world," at the end of each chapter o( his meditation, the presence of a nuiniin\' in his study as a \is-a-\is wiMdd furnish him constant material. But 1 liitl not hii)- 01U-, thouj^h the)- are very cheap. Cheaj) indeed I It cost a thousand dollars each to embalm them, antl here the\- are offered at retail for forty; and no doubt a Hberal discount from that ])rice! If only the old Egyptians had suspected this, would the)' not have preferred cre- mation? Beyond the Temple of Seti, (Kir road became a bridle path, winding between desolate hills in the Libyan Desert. As we rode along, a procession of Moslems appeared in silhouette on the sk)-line, winding along the path on the top of the ridge. It was their New Year, and they were having a celebration. They seemed like the shadowy ghosts of past ages making their silent pilgrimage along the centuries. We soon entered a gorge, bleak and desolate, and growing constantly narrower. There was no spear of grass, no song of bird ; and the silence deepened into a sense of mystery and awe such that, liad we met the kings of the Nineteenth Dynasty in procession, leaving their tombs to revisit the haunts of men, they could hardly have given us surprise. At last, two miles up the canon, where the crumbling sandstone clifTs shut in, and bring the valley to an end, we came to the tombs of the kings. Here we dismounted. Our donkey boys now came to us, and asked money to buy water for the donkeys and themselves. We paid it, though I am satisfied that none of them drank. The boys fed their don- keys, bow-ever, and this was the donkey's dinner: two handfuls of meal, a baked cake, and an onion with long green top. It was equally surprising to see the donkey's eagerness to con- sume the onion, and the boy's ability at any time to produce provender out of unsuspected portions of his raiment. All through Egypt and Palestine I was continually surprised at the w^ay the natives procured brcadstufTs from their clothing. The only thing comparable with it is the juggler's ability to THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS 383 K o H Z < a X [-1 O i-l 1-1 < W X o ?:$ pt. u o H U 3>'4 I'HK OLD WORLD IN 1111. Nl.W CKNTIKN briiii;' fricil Oi;j^s out o{ a sillv h-it. or doughnuts from under the collars of distin^uisliod citizens on the front seats. Tlie lv^\-ptian ^oxernnient charges each tourist five dollars for the prixile^e of seeing- the anti(iuities of Upper Egypt. The tickets are signed ami not transferable, and the money goes tcnxard the restoration and preservation of the objects of interest. Of course, some of our party had forgotten their tickets, antl these had to deposit a i)Ound sterling, with little hope of seeiner it a^ain ; but in every case it was later returned to them at the hotel. Considering that the Israelites had been in Egy[)t, it is marvelous that the Old Testament contains almost nothing about immortality. The Bible is, first of all, a boolc for this present life, but no ancient people were so concerned for the bodies of their dead, or had so elaborate an eschatology, as the Egyptians. They held that the spirit revisits the body, and often depicted the return of the winged alter-ego. But they also held that the body itself retains some degree of consciousness. The tomb walls depict feasts, in which the dead man is supposed, by some spiritual power, to share, (^ne of these banquet scenes from a Theban tomb, now in the British Museum, is here shown. Each of the guests has a lotus-flower, the bud of which forms the capital of many of the Egyptian columns. Out of their belief that the soul of man did not die, and that even the body retained something of consciousness, and had within it the germ of eternal hope, grew those splendid tombs, the Pyramids and these rock-hewn caverns of Thebes. This belief also resulted in the skill in embalming, for which the Egyptians have ever been famous. When a man died they removed from the body those organs especially liable to decomposition, filled the cavity with aromatic drugs, and saturated all with a mixture of carbonate, sulphate, and nitrate of soda, to \\hich sometimes they added salt of bitu- men. They then swathed it round and round with innumer- able yards of linen smeared with gum, placed upon it beads and small symbols arranged in prescribed form, and laid it in THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS 385 a tomb whose decorations were in accordance with the rank of the deceased. As it cost about a thousand dollars properly to embalm and mummify a corpse, the bodies of the common people were simply salted and dried. The tomb was the dead man's house. The chamber in which the dead body was laid was made inaccessible, in order that his repose might not be disturbed; but adjacent cham- bers were provided where his statue was set up, and where offerings were made to him or to the gods in his name. In I « 1 •i^T efaKi'i^aj^mnjfjTOif ss^-sz& sis >iw §?»'^ .< SU 111 Jcr. i'orty-t\\(\ is thai of the Noiuic i;ocls of Egypt. 1h- tli.it .IS it ni.i\-, tlu' inor.il lone of this section of "Tlic Book oi the nc.ul" is justh' .uhiiiii'd. Spite of all the degradation of its [loKtheisni. there w .is something good in a religion that const.uuK- t.iught men that in the day of judgment they must pro\e themselves guiltless of forty-two sins of violence and passion, the list comprising most of the wrongs which m.m intlicts upon his neighlior. One of the f.i\-orite scenes depicted on the walls of the tombs, and insciihed on papyrus to be buried with the corpse, was that of the judgment of the dead. In the upper part of the field are seen the forty-two judges before whom the kneel- ing man, newly arrived from the world above, must profess, "I have defrauded no man ; I have not prevaricated at the seat of justice; I have not made slaves of the Egyptians; I have not defiled ni}- conscience for the sake of my superior; I have not used \iolence; I have not famished my household; I have not caused others to weep; I have not committed for- gery; I have not falsified weights and measures; I have not been drunken; I have not pierced the banks of the Nile, nor separated an arm of the Nile for myself in the time of its increase." These arc the most prominent sins chosen out of the forty-two which a man must disclaim. It is evident that these teachings must always have been for the good of those who received them. It is also apparent that the Egyptians had well-defined laws on riparian rights. In the lower register of the same picture is seen the judg- ment hall of Osiris. On the right is the dead man, who is received by one or ir.ore female figures, each wearing an ostrich feather, symbolizing law. Sometimes one of these is seen introducing him to the other, who holds the scepter, symbol of authority, and the i^:i.n in iiii', m:w tM:\TrRV ^uih was ilctcnuiiK'il, he was supposed to he confi'onUul b_\- the spirits i^f evil who accuseil him of his sins in the upper worKi and sentencetl hini to threefold punishments in expia- tion oi them. To bear this ])enance for him, slaves were probably executed in piimitive times, that tliey might "answer"' for him 1)_\- offerini; to bear his jjenalty themselves. Later it \\as counted sufficient that imatjes of the deceased should be placed in tlic tomb with liim for a like i)urpose. In theory, these were probably portrait statues, but often, and perhaps almost always, they were conventional. They frequently represented the dead man in the form of Isis, and in his stead they made their "answer" when he was sentenced to till the ground, to draw water from the Nile, and to carry sand from the east to the w^est. Then it was that these "answerers" were supposed to speak in words somewhat like these : "If yc ha\e aught against him wtio now conies to yon, Lo, I am here in his stead. Call upon me and I will answer; only make the way plain for him. Whatever ye put upon him, I will bear; I will till the ground; I will draw water from the Nile; I will carry sand from the east to tlie west; only for him let the way be made plain; call upon me and I will answer in his stead." Many of these images, especially the later ones, have agri- cultural implements in their hands, little crooked plows or crude hoes, and on their backs checked work in paint, that is meant for baskets. With the former they were to till the soil and in the latter to carry sand from the east to the west, prob- ably to cover graves. It is a very striking thing that we find the vicarious idea thus deeply rooted in Egyptian theology, and no one can fail to be struck with the beauty of the idea, even as here crudely expressed. We have outgrown some crude theories of the atonement, but we shall not outgrow, either in human life or in theology, a need of the deep truth that redemption is wrought by love that can suffer for others' sake. The structure of the tondjs is practically identical. There is a sloping descent for the admission of the sarcophagus, with shallow steps at either side. This leads into a corridor which THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS 389 opens into the first of three successive rooms. In the farthest of these is the sarcophagus. The walls of the rooms contain scenes from the life of the deceased, or more frequently pic- ture the deceased king, sometimes identified with the sun-god, VESTIBULK OF THli TOMB OI- RAMESES VI passing through the twelve regions of the netiicr world. These scenes are commonly representctl in low relief on the plaster walls of the tomb, and arc decorated with pigment which in many cases is still bright, though for centuries it has been smoked by the candles and torches of visitors, and until recently, mutilated by the relic-hunting vandal. These tombs are so much alike that one might almost as well be content with a single one of them. I'.aeh has its sloping descent, and its three chambers connected \)y straight 39« niK oLP woKiD IN rill', Ni:\\ cKNirK\ coi-ritlors, and cacli ils inscriptions fnnn the sacred l)0()ks. Vet one finds in them a strani^e fascination, and l^'ocs on from one to another. W'e visited tlie tomlis of Ranicscs IV, VI, 111. and IX. antl then the t'lnest of all, the tomb of Scti I, father oi Rameses the Cireat. It has been kn(n\n since 1817. It is three hnndred and thirt\- feet in len-th, and besides its three chand)ers, has several smaller rooms. One character- istic illnstration from the walls of this tond) is here reproducetl. Seti. crowned with the double crown, is offcrin^j wine to Osiris, who is addressed as "the tijreat ^od of the west"; that is, of the land of the dead. Behind Osiris stands Isis, with the sun's disc between her heifer-horns, and behind her is llorus, son of Osiris and Isis, who holds a scepter. All three of these gods hold the syndjol of life. These pictures, which seem at first so unreal that we wonder if any one really under- stands them, become, after a little study, sufificiently familiar to enable even the casual tourist to interpret some of those most frequently met. The ability to do this adds so much to the interest of one's visit, that it is well for the tourist to learn in advance the most common deities and symbols. Here we trace the beginnings of those art forms which reached their perfection in Greece. The prototypes of those breathing forms in marble are here in the tombs of Egypt. But the art of Egypt is the art of death. It was a phi- losophy of death that gave it form, not the joy of life. It was born of the desert, straight lined, flat, monotonous, and desolate. The beauty of exuberant life was never in it. The uplifted heart of hope never gave it grace or delicacy. In the days when it was most alive it had the stiffness and sto- lidity of death. But it is vast, imposing, stupendous. It is full of the majesty of enormous proportions and herculean endeavor. Its dimensions are suggested by the unlimited space of the desert; and like the desert, it had and still has, the unchanging grandeur of vastness and mystery. Tourists cannot visit the tomb of Rameses II, and there is nothing there worth seeing. We stood opposite its filled-up entrance and were glad to locate the spot. It was plundered THE TOMBS OF THE KIXGS 39' in ancient times, and the bodies were removed from this and many other of these tombs to a pit on the other side of the mountain, probably to prevent the graves from being rifled. There they were found in 1881, and removed to the Gizch Museum. We saw these things by the light of candles; but the day SETI OFFERING WINE TO OSIKIS is not far distant when no smoke will be allowed within those frescoed tombs. Already they are wired for ckctric ligliting. Could anything be more incongruous? Ikit it is a tiling to be devoutly thank'ful foi-, and posterity will bless us for pre- serving these wonderful decorations from the smoke that would surely obliterate them in time. In the farthest apartment of the tomb of Scti I, our guide called us together, and made almost tearful allusion to our ac- quaintance, and our comingseparation. We were to retuiii down M)2 THK o\.\) woui.n IN Mil': Ni:w century the Nile that ni,i;ht, and befoii^ \\c wt-nt, he wanted to present us each w ith a soiwonir b)- wliich to rrnuMiil)cM- him. It was beautiful to see his affection for us. lie i^axc us each a coun- terfeit scarab, false even in that dim light, and posted himself in the narrow passage where he could levy tribute on c^ich of us. Our guide's farewell had one effect on our party. He besought us all not to go over the mountains, which he said THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS FROM THE MOUNTAIN TOP were steep, dangerous, and full of robbers. He said that the donkey boys would urge us to go that way, but that this was for evil ends of their own, and that we must not believe them. We should go back straight down the valley as we came. I knew that there was some scheme behind this benevolent advice, and could only suspect what I still suppose was true, that he was lazy and disinclined to make the climb; and as the only advantage mentioned in the climb was the view from the top of the mountain, I was not unwilling to go back the way we came. And thus our party mis.sed, and I came near missing, one of the best experiences in Egypt, and for me the very best. THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS 393 I was delayed in starting back from the tombs, and found near!}' all our party mounted, and some of them already on their way down the valley. I called for Abdul, who was usually very prompt. He delayed a little, and when I was finally mounted and about to join the others, he said. "No, no, we go by ourselves." I protested somewhat feebl}% but I had learned to trust the boy, and I let him have his way. He assured me that I would find it worth while. So Abdul and I together struck out o\'er the hills. I never saw a more desolate scene than that obtained from the top of this ridge looking back into the valley of the tombs. To see it at its best one needs to view it thus in the silence and the isolation. While one of the chief pleasures of the cruise was in the fellowship of our companions, there was something singularly satisfactory in being alone at this time, and I reveled in the experiences that isolation brought me. It was pleasant to get away from the tedious, parrot-tale of the guide; to hear nothing for a few hours of the gossip and chat of the journey; and to step alone, into a remote past, face to face with the spirit of antiquity. In an article on Arizona in a recent number of The Atlantic, Harriet Monroe says of the emotions inspired by the desert: "I felt the coming of new empires, the burden of uiil)oni c;enturic.><, and grew great with the unspeakable hope and unspeakable sadness of tlie wilderness. It was a most complex emotion, this vision of unachieved glory set against a background of immemorial anti(iuitv." One feels this even more, but with less of the hope, where the glory has been achieved and lost. The barren, desolate land comes, through its very lifelessness, to partake of the life of the past. As the mummy, through his immortal death, seems strangely half-alive, so this region of the lombs comes to have a semblance of swathed and silent \\{c. . . . . The clod 1 tram]ilf \\ as the skull of royal I'haraoh, And the water of the river In the veins of haughty princes Once ran reil. 391 I'liK OLD WOULD IN nil, m:\\ lkmurv And the iliist-cloiuls of tlie desert Were the iijis i»f li>ve]y women; W'liere are they, ;iiui tluy who kissid iheui? Power dies and beauty passes, Nar.ght ;il)ides. They were mighty, yet they vanished; Names are all they left behind them: (ilory first, and then an echo; Then the very eclio hnshes, All is still. In the stillness of this retrospect, one views Egypt from the top of the barren mountain above Biban el-Muluk. llere he stands face to face with the past. There were other things with which I stood face to face. Descending into the \'al!e\% I entered a region full of natives who have many things to sell, and I was their only possible victim. A fine bronze mirror from the tombs of the queens was among the treasures offered me. Those in the British Museum are not finer specimens. An alabaster tear-bottle and some pieces of mummy cases with figures as fresh upon them as though painted only a year ago; a statue of Amon and another of Osiris; a mummied hawk and a mummied cat, and a carved wood tablet of most ancient aspect — all these I gladly bought. Abdul did the buying for me, rushing in among the eager peddlers and pushing them to right and left as though he had been a man and they but boys. He would snatch an article which I desired to buy and hand over a coin for it, and when the owner followed, protesting that he could not sell it for the sum which he had received, Abdul would liand it back and take the money with a face as impassive as the statue of Rameses itself. Then he would wait until the owner came back, begging him to keep the article and let him have the money. I made purchases until all my silver was gone, and then the tug of war came in the effort to group together a number of small j)urchases and make them aggre- gate a ten-franc piece in gold. Abdul accomplished this, assigning to each owner of a purchased relic his proportionate share in the future division; and though they protested they THE TOMBS OF THE KIXGS 395 accepted his distribution as final. They had more articles for sale and pressed them upon us, but Abdul imperturbabh' re- moved his turban, tied up all purchases, fastened them upon the donke\- behind me. and charged me to gallop on ahead while he remained to settle the dispute among the peddlers. He soon overtook me, and we made more purchases later on. THE TEMPLE (»F IIAIASI When a man offered me an anticpie and I said "No money," he would say, "Take it, and send money by donkey boy." I was glad to find that they trusted strangers as tlu'\- did. When we reached the hotel and Abtlul unrolled hi^ turban, I felt as I fancy the children of Israel diil after lhe\- had gone out and spoiled the Egyptians, for 1 had a collection ot relics unmistakably genuine, which, without being bulky or cumber- some, were the sort of aiUicpies I was glad to bring honu- from Egypt. Across the mountain from the tombs of the kings lies the Temple of Hatasu. It is (piite unlike any other Egyptian temple, being built in a series of terraces on the slope of the 3y6 I'llK OLD WOKl.l) IN lllK NKW CKNTURY foothill; .iiul iiistc.ul o\ staiuliiiL;- out clean-cut at;"ainst the sky, it has the haic clilT iov a hackt^i'ouml. Ilatasu, wIkisc reign was contemporary with those of thiee men, none' of whom was fooblo. pitnetl heiself stronger and more capable than any of them ; antl this temple fittingly embraces more original features than an\- in I^lgypt. The Egyptians call it Der el-Rahri. which means. "The loveliest of all." Much of it has been restored, so that the complete plan is easily dis- cerned. In some of its inner sanctuaries the i)aint is almost as bright as if it had been applied in recent years. I \\-ent through the Temple of Hatasu unattended even b\- .Vbdul. He was busy near the gate, holding preliminary negotiations with a group of peddlers. It may be that the men were grave-robbers, but a certain high official of the tombs, expecting (^ur part}' from around the mountain, rode up just as I came out of the gate. He took an interest in my purchases, and gave me the benefit of liis knowledge. The law forbidding the exportation of relics is not meant to appl}-. and cannot be applied, to relatively small purchases of things easily duplicated. Near the Temple of Hatasu 1 had an experience that reminded me that woman's power in Egypt did not end with Hatasu and Cleopatra. Four girls ran after me with articles for sale. I did not want to buy, and so rode on, soon leaving three of them behind. One, tall and lithe, kept up with my cantering donkey, and as I still refused to examine her beads and trink- ets, she desisted from her attempts to sell, and begged for "bakshish." T urged ni}' donkey on, but she still kept up; and as she continued to beg she addressed me with larger and more flattering titles. At first it was "Bakshish, monsieur," and then the promotions began. I was master, colonel, and my lord, all within five minutes. She attempted to kiss my hand, calling me general, and governor, and when I withdrew my hand she caught my stirrup, and repeatedly kissed my knee, each time with a higher title. No man ever rose from the ranks through a series of more rapid promotions; and the THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS 597 higher I rose, the more gracious I found myself becoming. At last, she called me khedive. I knew then that I must capitulate, but I waited to see if she could do better. Noth- ing remained but to prefix adjectives, and this she did. When she cried at last, "Bakshish, O great and mighty khedive," I paid her a piastre and let her go. I told myself that I was paying to be rid of her, but I am morally certain that she laughed in what ouc^ht to have been her sleeve, and told her ^y^ JjB«p^<^K rill'. K.\.\n:si:r.M companions how another old goose had been won over by barefaced flattery. O Eve, however little else thy daugh- ters inherit, few have failcil to learn how the heart of man may be won by flattery ! About a half-hour's ride from the Temple of llatasu is the Ramcseum, the large temple, built in honor of Anion b\- Rameses II. The cast gate of this temple was originally two hundred and twenty feet broad. The temple is oiilv partly preserved; but it stands like a great low cliff, with its strata turned to perpen ha\e weii^hetl o\er two million pounds. Not far a\\a\- aio tlie next larL;est statues, the Colossi of Menmon. They are t\\ o enormous seated figures, each carved out of a single block oi granite. They are nearly equal in size, ami the ilimensions are tak'en fiom the south one, which is in better preservation. It is now rift\'-three feet high, but the great ilouble crown which once adorned it may have brouiiiit its total height ui) to sixt\'-nine feet. The northern figure is the one that popularly is supposed to sing at sunrise, which has eiven it the name of "The Vocal Memnon." Having had quite enough sightseeing for one day, and being well laden with our purchases, Abdul and 1 turned east- ward and soon were ferried back across the Nile. I looked for a crocodile, but could not find one; but I recalled that parody on the busy bee, which, I believe, first appeared in "Alice in Wonderland." How dotli the little crocodile Improve his shining tail, And iiour the waters of the Nile On every golden scale! How cheerfully he seems to grin, How neatly spreads his claws, And welcomes little fishes in With gently smiling jaws! We spent what was left of the day in visiting the shops and bazaars of Luxor, and the mission schools under the care of Dr. Murch. l^ut one American church, the United Presby- terian, has missions in Egypt. This arrangement is by mutual agreement of the mission boards to prevent any possible waste of money or conflict of interests on the ground. Dr. Murch is doing a work which deserves the highest praise, and the sympathy of all good peo[)le of every name and faith. In my purchase of scarabs I was assisted by Dr. Murch, who knows a genuine scarab from one of recent manufacture the moment he sets eyes upon it. Under his guidance I purchased several of these interesting mementoes. The THE TOMBS OF IHl. KINGS 399 scarabaeus is a beetle not unlike our American tumble-bug. It deposits its eggs in a ball of dung whose fermentation imparts sufficient warmth to hatch the egg. The insect CLEOI'AIKA AS INDi; KSTL I )V I'OK llAlIloK exhibits great care in rolling this hall t<» a place of safety. The Egyptians saw the process of rolling the l)all, and waUluHl the ball, till froni the mass of earth, life sprang forth, .ind they adopted the scarabiEus as their symbol of immortality. They molded scarabs in clay or carvid them out of precious stones, and sometimes cut the cartouche of the owner on tin- bottom as a seal. On these we find the names of ni,in\- of 40C) ini-. oi.n \\(^i>:li) in iiik x\e\v century Iv^x-pt's kinors. There is no relic which oiu- can bring from b^gypt so appidpri.ite as one of these scarabs of assured genu- ineness. The symbol of eternal life coming forth to light again after centuries of entombment, is a token which any *'>nc with a spark of sentiment would ct'rtainly cherish. \\"e left T.uxor late in the afternoon on the regular train for Cairo. We stopped at Keneh, where they make water- pots, mixing ashes with the clay to make the pots more porcTus. The evaporation of water on tlie outside of the pot keeps the temperature of the water several degrees lower than that of the air. Boys on the station platform sell you a jar of water for five or ten cents and throw in the jar, which is worth the money even if one does not drink the water. All along the river the sakiehs were turning and drawing- water from the stream for irrigating purposes. They are heavy, cumbersome wheels, and the vessels for raising the water are earthen jars tied onto the wheel, and not pockets in the wheel itself as one would expect. Most of the water is dipped in a l)ucket or jar at the end of a well-sweep, raised a few feet, and dipped again by another sweep above, and even bv a third to give it sufficient elevation to flow across the level flood plain of the Nile. Most of the Egyptians seem the reverse of industrious, but these patient drawers of water appear hardly ever to remit their laborious vocation. The passage of the unfrequent steamer seldom stops them, and they rarely raise their eyes to look after a fleeting locomotive. Witli motion as regular as a pendulum of a clock they con- tinue their weary work. One could imagine that they were "answerers" expiating the sins of the dead, and serving out the sentence of the gods against those who transgressed in other generations. But this is the work that makes Egypt a fertile and beautiful land instead of the dreariest of deserts. \Ve were settling down for the night when we stopped at a little station, and some one tapped on the window. I let it down and a man outside thrust in some little carved trans- lucent stones with a woman's face thereon. THE TOMBS OF THE KINGS 401 "Antique!" he cried; "Genuine antique ! Show it to your dragoman !" "Where did you get them?" I asked. "Denderah," lie answered; "Temple of Hathor." To be sure, we were just opposite that temple, founded in the first Christian century, b}- one of the Ptolemies. The woman who stole the hearts of Caesar and Antony posed com- monly for the figure of the goddess. I took a little lens from my pocket and looked at the cutting, which was good and clear. I offered the man money, and he took it gladly, and the train started on. There was something startling in being thus called back nineteen hundred years by a tap on the car window, and haxing thrust into one's hand a contemporary portrait of Cleopatra. But this was very modern compared with a seal that Dr. Murch gave me, containing the cartouche of Thothmes I, which is older than Moses. One must, how- ever, be careful of his chronology in Egypt, and never count anything old that does not reach well back into the thousands. Abraham lived a long time ago, but when Abraham went down into Egypt the pyramids were alread}' hoary with the memories of centuries. CllAPTI^R XX1\' NAPLES, POMPEII AND VESUVIUS Let us gratefully remember, whatever ilisappoiutuients linger in i^ur minds, that we ariix'ed in Na[)les the clay after the quarantine had been called off. We had word at Alex- andria that Italy was quarantined against the East, for there were a few sporadic cases of the bubonic i)lague in Egypt, and there was all too good reason to fear cholera. J do not blame the guartlians of all Mediterranean ports for their fear of dis- ease imported from each other. But if each one wenild clean its own disease-producing quarters, and cease to levy black- mail on steamers, the results would be better. We expected to spend four thu's at anchor in the Bay of Naples; but the health officers met us with a smile, and when they departed it was we who smiled, for we were at liberty to go ashore at once. So we prepared our baggage for sunny Italy. The Mediterranean is two seas in one. Sicily and Malta and the other islands indicate the line of the old geological break. Right at this point Italy puts its foot into the situ- ation, and makes it easy for a ship that rounds the toe to seek a harbor about the ankle. Just about here is the Bay of Naples, dear to navigators since first the seas were sailed, and lauded by poets since the days of flomer and of Horace. The Bay of Naples, thirt}'-five miles in circuit, is in form a crescent; and the islands projecting beyond the headlands, make it almost a circle. Toward the northern end is Naples, with Vesuvius fifteen miles to the south. The hills that rise in green and purple from the water's edge are dotted with villas and villages, many of which are famous in song and story. Around this bay cluster more objects of interest ami beauty than can be shown by an}- bay on earth. On these slopes 402 NAPLES, POMPEII AND VESUVIUS 403 Caesar and Caligula and Xcro and Hadrian and Ponipev had their villas, and drank of the wine of the hillsides, and looked out o\'er this beautiful land and sea. On yonder hill lived Virgil. There he wrote his ^neid and his Georgics, and there was his tomb; for though he died away from here, the Emperor Augustus, who was with him. respected his dying . ^Jlj'x^ r» L NAl'LES — STKADA l>KL MOLO AND ST. EI.Mo'S CASTI-K. Courtesy of Mr. Kr.ink C. Clark. ItAV (U- NAI'l i:s .}0.| 'rHK OLD WOKl.D IN 1111, Nl.W CKN"n'R\- wish, aiul Imou-^Iu his h(uly here io l)e huiii'd at I'osihpo, ,iho\'e the ha\-. (h\ youilcv \\{[]c ishnul of Xisichi, Cicero held liis hist conference with ihutii'^ after the murder of Caisar. At yonder llshiiv^-town of To/./uoh, neai' the northern extremity oi llie i)a\-, Paul hiiicU'd in the spring' of 62, after liis shipwreck anil his winter at Malta. The town was called I'utei^li then, antl was an important port. To our rii;ht, as we enter the ba}-. ])assini:^ between Sor- rento and Capri, stands \'esuvius, lookint^ precisel}' like its pictures, yd i;randei'; and near its base lie the two buried cities that hohl our imagination with a grip of strong fas- cination. And beside all these, straight ahead is the city itself. The landscape is a symphony of color. The deep blue of the bav, the brilliant a/.ure of the sky, the varying greens of the hillsides, are enhanced by the reds and yellows of the city, and the bright and picturestpie attire of the people. Those of the inhabitants who came out in boats to greet us were an unclean looking lot, but it was interesting to note that a gay cap on the head of a man, or a flowered kerchief on the head of a woman, redeemed the entire costume and made it picturesque. The people of Italy know how to make rags attractive. We were rajiidly loaded into steam tenders, and ferried ashore. Kach boat as it left the ship was attended by skiffs containing little bands of musicians, who played for us on "•uitars and mandolins. One had a little stage constructed across the thwarts, and upon this a girl danced with forced abandon. We were too much absorbed in the landscape to pay much attention to these people at the outset; but just as we were getting interested, and thinking the show worth paying for, the manager of the band gave a loud ejaculation of disgust, and letting go the rope, sought a more appreciative audience. So we completed our sail without music, and as soon as we had passed the custom house, were ready to see the city. The bay is so charming, that had we not been pressed for time, we could almost have enjoyed four days at NAPLES, POMl'l-ll AXI) VESUVIUS 405 quarantine; but we were glad and thankful to set foot on shore, and to inspect the chief port of Italy. Naples has a population of half a million, most of whom seemed to be trvintr to crowd into emitjrant steamers for New York. It was simply appalling to try to go on shore through the crowds of unwashed Italians, and to think that they would be in America before we arrived. I have never seen so unpromising a grist of humanity poured into the steerage A M.Al'oI.lTAN TKA.M hopper to come out American citizens as the crowd \\hicli was then sailing awa_\- from Naples at the rate of .1 thousantl a day. It pro\'ed a record-breaking year for immigrants, and 1 think that we saw the least jiromising of them all at Naples. The pe(»i)le of Naples live largely in tlie streets. Thou- sands have no otlu'r home. it is depressing to read I he statistics of the homeless class, i)ut it is less so to see the people themselves. They are light-hearted and free from care, overworked and indolent, undeifed and buoyant. liiey sleep and eat and make thcii' toilds in puijlic, with a Ireedom that is sonu limes startling; but wilh two families in a single room, the sidewalk must \)v ulili/.ed. I pitii-d them, and then was reminded how much pity I had w.istcd at various limes 4oC^ iiii-: oil) \\i)Ki,i> IN riii: \i:\v ^T•:^"■^^R^■ ill m\" lito on ponpK' who ])Ossessc\l ;i larger [jioportion of the thiiii;-; thc\- clcsircd than I thil. There is soniethini;' lialf Oriental in Najjles. Man\' cus- toms reniinileil us that we were still on the shores of the Mediteiranean. The donke)- is as indispensable here as in Cairo. Here we saw a^ain what we had seen everywhere since Malta- — herds of i^oats drixen throuL^h the streets and milked before the doors of the houses. The buyer brings out his own bottle antl stands over the owner of the four-footed milk cart, as he milks into the l)ottle from between the goat's hintl legs. There seemed little opportunity for the milkman to cheat, and that may be win- these sellers of lacteal fluid looked habitually sad. Perhaps they do not know that in India the seller of milk carries a bladder full of water up his sleeve, and lets it trickle into the bottle even while he milks before the purchaser's eyes. It is hard to be honest and deal in milk. We first made our way to the National Museum, and filletl the street before it with our carriages. It was interesting to see the drivers extricating their vehicles afterward. Ours drove upon the sidewalk for half a block, all unmindful of the protests of the shop-keepers, and bumped us hard at alley- ways, but got through without a breakdown. The National Museum was founded in 1790, and has some of the most famous collections in the world. To see its sculp- ture alone is a delightful weariness. Here are Venuses almost without number, the Capuan, the Callipyge, and an entire hall of Venuses besides, with gems by Praxiteles and Michael Angelo and the rest. Here are forms of surpassing loveliness from the Baths of Caracalla. Here are the P^lora, and Gladi- ator, and Bull, and others from the I'arnese family, embracing nearly the entire collection. Every one wanted to see the famous Farnese bull, the largest antique group known. It is massive and vigorous, but disappointing. The bull's head is too small, and the posing is self-conscious. The group creates surprise rather than admiration. We saw here the celebrated collections from Pompeii, which show us how the NAPLES, POMPEII AND \ESUV1US 407 Romans lived two thousand years a' out' painting. The permis- sion is for three months, and if he hnishes his i)ainting. he cannot have another picture to copy until the time expires. He may, however, extend the time b>' special pci mission. -}oS 'I'lii oi.D \V(^i>:i.n IN iiii: m.w c i:\Tr in' lie imist not g;ossii) noi- sciittcr his inatcrials, must remove his paiiils ami easel at ni^ht, ami must observe i;()ocl order. We saw hiimlieds ot these artists, men and women, some of them doini;' excellent work, and every one- of them ea^ei' to sell his or her picture. The)- cannot all talk English, but they are read)' the moment _\'ou stop to adnn're the canvas to paint on their palette the price in lire or fi'ancs. Tiie man who has worked three months on a painting offers his picture for five luuulred lire, and will gladly tak-e half that am- if he .starts early and improves his time, though .1 da)- for each is better. ]'«)in])eii in its best days hatl a population of only tliirl\- thousand, and attained glory, as it could lianll\- haxi' done in any other \\a\-, by its destruction. The cit\- was destroyed in part by an earthquake in 6:; A. !).. and after its rebuilding was completely overwhelmed 1)\- an eruption of \\su\ius, August 24, 79 A. I). Not all tin- peojjle of I'ompeii were destroyed. A pnliniinarx- eruption gave tlu-m warning, and all, or nearly all, left the cit\ . I'.nt many returned for their |I2 iiM oil) WOKl.n IN rill- \I-\V CENTURY valuables, .iiul soiiu' h.ul n-'siinicd ihrii' ordinal)" inaniicr of living' wlu'ii tlu" final tlisastcr came. Hiilwcr lias <;i\'cn us a ijraphic picture of the city's last ila\'s, in his popular uovel, and lMin\- the \'ounL;er, Avho was an e_\-e-\\itness, aiul himself bare!}' escapetl. has left us a descri]Uion of the eruption. Pliny was a lad of eighteen when the disaster occurred, and his descrii^ion is contained in a letter to Tacitus, the historian. The recent horror at I'elee i^ives especial interest to Pliny's dcsci"ii)tion : It was alicaciv alH)ul seven o'clock in tlic inornin<;, and yet there was to be seen but a faint light, like that of twilight. The buildings were shaken by such heavy shocks that there was safety nowhere. We resolved to abandon ttie city. Arrived witliout the city, we paused. The sea seemed to be turned back upon itself and to retreat. Over against us a black and awful cloud, crinkled with darting, wavy fires, opened, and showed us great flames like thunderbolts. .Almost in an instant the cloud fell to earth, covering the sea. The ashes began to fall upon us. Turning my head, I perceived behind a dense smoke, which was following us, and spreading itself over the ground like a torrent. While we could still see, I advised my ■mother to leave the principal road, lest the crowd which was following in our steps should crush us in the darkness. Hardly had we left it, when the darkness so increased that we seemed to be, not as involved in a black, moonless niglit, but as shut in a chamber where every light had been extin- guished. There was nothing to be heard fiut the lamenting of women, the wails of children, and the shouts of men. One was calling a father, another a son, another a wife; people could recogni/.e one another only by the voice. Many l)esought aid of the gods; others fancied that they no longer lived, and f)elieved this to be the last and eternal night, when the world was to disappear into its grave. At last this dreadful darkness was dissipated by degrees, like a cloud of smoke; the real day returned, and even the sun appeared, though very faintly, and as when an eclipse is coming on. Every object that presented itself to our eyes seemed changed, ])eing covered over with white ashes, as with a deep snow. Greek influence was ever strong in this vicinity. Naples retained its Greek charter and Greek speech long after Rome had extended its sway and taught its language in the neigh- boring towns. It was because of the predominance of Greek thought, that Nero first appeared on the stage in Naples, rather than in Rome. So the Roman life we find depicted in Pompeii has the tinge of contemporary Greek infltience. The city was artistic and wealthy. Its life was luxurious and NAPLES, POMPEII AND VESUVIUS 4'3 worse than luxurious. Possibly if its inhabitants had real- ized how some things would look to us to-day they would have employed their time between eruptions, not in securing- their I'OMI'I.IAN (.IKl Painting by Sicliel. valuables, but in obliterating the evidences of their shanie- lessncss. The streets of Pompeii arc nanow, and p,i\cd with i^locks of lava, worn in deep ruts by the cliariot-wlieels. We are able to tell from the chaiacter of the ruius the original pui- posc of most of tlir buildings. The court of justice, tin- theater, the baths, and tin- market arr the most interesting: of the i)ublic buildings; .\ liil.- the Innisc of Pausa, ilescribcd in Pul- wer's "Last Days of I'onipcii," and a rcccnti)- excaxaicd 414 I'lii *'i,i) woivi.i) IN iiii: m;\v ckxitrv liouso. the linost now to he seen, are the most popuhir of pri\ate residences. But httle nuM'e than a thirtl of tlie tow n is now excavated. The i:[overnnient is still exhuming, and each \-ear adds new reUcs of the past. Some private excax'atini;- is done outside the walls, ami from this tligt;ini;- there is sale of Roman vases and other curios. Some of tlie alleL;ed Pompeian relics, how- ever, are reputed spurious. The houses of Pompeii are now a single stor)- in height. ]\Ian\- of them were higher, but the exposed stories perished. On!}' that which was destroyed was j'jreserved. The ashes which covered the place to the dej)th of twenty feet doulDtiess did damage to what was left standing above their level, but did not obliterate it. 'Pime has done that. Tiie interesting thing about Pompeii is that it is a snap- shot at antiquity. There was no opportunity for the old world to pose, or hand down to posterity a self-painted por- trait of what it would like the future to think of it. The calamity that came upon it took it just as it was. There was buying and selling, marrying and giving in marriage, cooking and feasting, toiling and sleeping, and the cloud of ashes that came down upon the town stopped it all, and held it so, till posterity became sufficiently interested to look and see this terribly life-like scene of death. Pompeii is a place of unexpected sadness. The silent streets are those of a city of the dead. It is more sad than a cemetery, for there is so much that reminds one of life. When one has visited the empty houses, the silent forum, and the desolate basilica, and returns to the museum to see the bodies of some of the dead, still in their last attitudes of frantic struggle for life, he feels the pathos and terror of it all. To me it w^as one of the sadtlest places that I have ever visited. Vesuvius was an old and burned out volcano when history began. It bore on its face the indisputable evidence of a riotous career, but had been on its good behavior so long that people had decided not to mention the past. The only eruption in the centuries immediately before the Christian era NAPLES. POMPEII AND VESUVIUS 4>5 was that of Spartacus. in 71 J]. C. Spartacus was a gladiator, a slave. He revolted, and with his fellow-gladiators fought his way through the streets of Capua, defeating with such weapons as they were able to seize, the detachment of Roman soldiery that opposed them. Spartacus made his home in the crater of Vesuvius, and from time to time he and his band of outlaws overflowed like lava upon the surrounding region. Slaves flocked to his standard until he had one hundred thou- .\ M-.Al'i /l.i I A.S l^.\.\l>|-.L A .NEAPOI.rrAN SWAIN sand men, and attempted to capture Rome. But at length he was defeated, dying gallantly among his men. His was the greatest servile insurrection of history, and was led by a truly great commander, who performed prodigies of valor ere he died. .Six thousand of his men were crucified, picketing with their crosses the road from Capua to Rome. It was appropriate that .Spartacus made Vesuvius his rendezvous. It was a fit place to remind oppressors that depressed society must some day find an outlet through erup- tion. But the Roman people little heeded tiic warning either of the mountain or the man. In time Vesuvius woke up. and Pompeii went dow n ; in time also the provinces awoke, and the Roman empire went under. During our first two or three days we did not sec Vesu- vius. The top was cn\ eloped in clouds. Ikit on the d.i\- 4i6 TiiK OLD woKi.i) IN iiii: m;\v ciiN'ruuv wlicii wo \"isitc(.l roiiijKMi it w .is in its ni.ijcsty. The early dawn sliowcd it cMuittiiiL; s^roat cloiuls of smoke tliat took beautiful colois in the slaiitinL; sun. .Vs the tlay wore on the cloud L;rew (.l.irker; there was no muttering" or (juaking, but onl\- the emission oi steam and sulphui' smoke. A carriage load of us started from I'onipeii, and drove up the slope. \'esu\-ius is the property of Thomas Cook. vVt least he o\\ ns the means of ascent. For about five dollars he sells a ticket that inclutles carriage ride from Pompeii to the base of the cone, ascent of the cone on the inclined railway, and return by carriage to Naples. We drove for some little time before we rose perceptibly, passing through sev^eral little villages, with their glimpses of Italian life, among them one that covers the site of Hercu- laneum. Ilerculaneum, which is named from its worship of Hercules, by whom it is said to have been founded, was destroyed in 79, not by ashes alone as Pompeii was, but by ashes and lava. Pompeii was covered twenty feet, but Ilercu- laneum lies from forty to one hundred feet below the surface. It has been partial)}' excavated, but not uncovered. It is visited with candles, and with uncertain gropings down long flights of steps, while Pompeii is open to the heavens. Pom- peii is thus far more easy to visit, and has much more that is worth seeing. The road up V^esuvius is well graded, and is an easy ascent for passengers in carriages; but it is a long, hard climb for the horses. As we began the ascent, the little boys who had turned cart-wheels beside the carriage below disappeared, and in their place came little girls who threw flowers at us and sang. Some of them sang well, and all of them tried hard. Midway of the first climb stood a cripple with a barrel organ, turning the organ with one hand, and whistling on the fingers of the other to the organ accompaniment. 1 have never heard such whistling. It had in it the note of every bird whose call I could remember. A little farther up a man met us with oranges for sale. He was entirely dumb, but could trade well, and his oranges were good and welcome. On the NAPLES. POMPEII AND VESUVIUS 417 lower slopes are vineyards, with little houses close to the road, out of wliich the women ran with bottles and glasses, ofifering for sale the wine of the mountain, which is called by the name Lacrymce Christi, "the tears of Christ." It is an appro- priate name for any intoxicating drink. When we reach the lava of recent years, vegetation ceases. Near the vegetation line is the observatory. Beyond this we continued to ascend, over acres and acres of lava, till we reached the foot of the ash- cone. Vesuvius varies from three thousand nine hundred to four thousand three hundred feet in height, according to the con- dition of the cone, which melts down during some eruptions and again is built up by the deposits from others. There have been some fifty eruptions since that which destroyed Pompeii, the most terrible of which, in 1631, killed three thousand people. There has been a somewhat continuous eruption since 1895, but without loss of life. One is sur- prised, however, to see the volume of lava that has flowed in recent years toward Naples. It extends some distance below the observatory, and is curled and twisted inconceivably. It has shown singular freaks, too, in the levels it has sought; for, while in general it of course flows downward, it has not always sought the lowest possible channel, but lias made a track of its own in a somewhat arbitrary manner. An inclined railway ascends the cone, ami couxcns ten passengers at a time. One car ascends while another comes down; and each track has a single rail on which the car bal- ances in a manner apparently most insecure. It is doubtless safer than it looks, and I am able to certify that it tloes not always destroy the lives of its passengers. At the top of the railway one finds himself at the end of Thomas Cook's jurisdiction, and is warned that the use of a guide to the crater is "compulsative," and that the persons who tlirust themselves upon tourists are irresponsible. A. printed notice, couched in most remarkable English, warns the tourist that if he employs one of these guides, he must also pay the authorized guide, whether he uses him or not. I 4iS 1111 oi.i) woKi.n IN iiii'. M.w ei'.Nirm rocortl this intcrprrlat ion of tin- iiolicr Iuti.', for few Enylish- spcakiiii;' tourists will bo ahli' to uiulorstaiul the precise niean- in;4 of the notice, which 1 tianslaleil fioni \'esu\'ian I'jvj^lish with j^reat eff(~irt. A \-iolent storm came up whili- we were on tin- mountain, and we sought the shelter of the upper station, where lii^ht- niu!"' pl.u'ed about us, and liail beat on the ir(~)n roof. The sulphur i^"as seltleil .il)out us till we all coui^hed and choked, and the tem[)erature, alread}' cold, droppetl lower. Wc were giail wlien the one-lc!::jt^ed railroad fcnind room to take us down; and after refreshing' ourselves at the restaurant at the base of the cone, we moved toward Naples. It was Easter Monday, and a holiday; and the villai^es throui^h which we drove were in i^ala dress. We had had the storm all to our- selves. Below, the skies were smiling-, and the air was balmy. The storm was simply an added attraction to show^ one of the various moods of ^rim, frownini;, muttering, vindictive and treacherous Vesuvius. We left the shi]) at Naples. Many of our party continued on the vessel to Villefranche, and thence departed across Europe. We met many of them later, and looked among them for the man who broke the bank at Monte Carlo. He is still unidentified among them, but all agree that the Riviera is charming, and that we who did not go on to that point missed a great deal. Erom the top of Vesuvius we saw the Celtic depart from Naples with our friends on board, and a real feeling of loneliness came over us. But we kept meeting our friends all the way across the Continent. Many continued on the ship to Liverpool. Each group seemed confident that it had made the best use of the time; and those who stayed by the ship declare that the seven days' rest were none too long after their weeks of active sightseeing. CHAPTER XXV ROME, THE ETERNAL CITY I am proud to belong to that select company whose mem- bers may induge in such introductories as, "When I was in Naples the first time,'' and "When I was last in Rome." After a brief look at Naples, I went to Rome, returning after three days for another peep at \'esuvius, and coming back again to Rome for a final look and review. So I have twice visited those cities, and shall never feel humiliated henceforth in the presence of those who affect to despise a man who has been abroad but once. I, too, can mildly hint the plural, though not, I hope, with the same assurance and affectation of superiority. From Naples to Rome is 162 miles by rail. The scenery to us was chiefly attractive, after Egypt and Palestine, for its wide sweeps of verdure, its vineyards, and its fields, well culti- vated to the verv car-wheels. There may be a weed somewhere in Italy, but T did not see it. The trees, however, were a sorry looking lot. For some reason the owners cut them back each season to stumps a dozen feet in height, with bare knobby limbs projecting a little distance in the air — a pathetic appeal for artificial legs and petticoats. These, doubtless, were soon forthcoming in the new growth of spring; but what we saw of Italy's forest growth was not insi)iring. The trees suffer from an excess of the nude in art. I Un-, as everywhere we had been, we felt sure that the people suffer for lack of fuel. houbtless we in America overheat our houses, but we seem to have a monopoly of that fault. Some one had a contract to serve a lunch to us all on the special train that conveyed us to Rome. This was when 1 first visited Rome. 1 do not know that contractor, but if he could come to America and get a CfMitract in sonu- ol our 419 \2o ■nil-. (M.n WDKi n i\ iiii: ni:\v cknturv cities, he wouKl ui.iki' his tortuiu'. I woulcl icconiiiuiul the p.ixiuL;' departniont. lie wouUl h.i\'c ;i L;(iod stock of material in the biscuits which wt- left. I^ach w.is sliced halt in two, 1 know not with what kind of we.ipon -the two-handed sword of some oKl Crusader, possibly — and a thick chuidc of boiled mutton inserted. And e.ich of us had a bottle of wine — most of us being total abstainers! It may be sui)posed that when we got to Rome our first grateful emotion was the sight of some notable antiquity in the City of the Seven Mills; not at all. We got in at midnight, and in a warm rain, and had a tussle to get our belongings through the inspector's office and into the carriages; and when w^e got to the hotel they had dinner ready for us at midnight. It was good. And the last course — I know I shall not be believed, but I speak truly — the last course was a lemon sherbet, as good as I ever ate at home. On a warm, wet night, after such a meal on the train, and after months in an ice-creamless part of the world, I have no words to express our joy. If the Imperial Band had met us at the station and played the Star Spangled Banner, it would not have been so grateful a reminder of home. Each meal thereafter we looked for more, and it never came; we ought to have known better than to expect it. But no subsequent lack could efTace the blissful memory of that delicious pile of frigid ecstasy, passed in a large dish, from which each helpctl himself. It melted away like a snowflake in Vesuvius. No wonder the proprietor never had courage to ofTer us more. The hotels of Rome are comfortable. (^urs had steam heat. It was much rarefied, but one could feel that the [)ipes were warm if he put his hands on them. Our hotel also had an elevator, which was operated by a man on the ground floor. It was supposed to be able to carry up four people, but I went up wdth one stout woman, and we both agreed that there was one too many of us. On each floor a sign was posted saying that we w^ere expected to walk dowMi, and to use the elevator only for ascending. The hotel with a "lift" is very proud of the fact, and makes much of it in its adver- ROxME, nil. KTERNAL CITY 4-1 tisements. I saw largo hotels in various places with the words "Hydraulic Lift" painted across the whole front of the estab- lishment, and conspicuously displayed in all advertisements, whose "lift" would hardly have made a respectable bird-cage. 1 1 1 1'. AK> II III- Mil Electric light is a convenience which they use sparingly in all European and Eastern hotel:,, where they use it at all, but they do not forget to put it in the hill. To see tin- large space which the light covers on the bill, and the feeble glow which it sheds about the room, vexes one's sense of tlu- fitness of things. I3etweLn the two is a sad lack of proportion. When there are two electric lights in one room they arc wired 422 nil Oil) WORM) IN llll': NI'AV cknitrv to a single switch in such a \\a\' that when due is turnctl on the other turns ott automatically. One docs not realize it so much at tlie time as on liis return, but there is little ice cut on the other side of the water in coniparisi>n with our use of it at home. Those who had ice at Rome IkuI to pay extra for it. They must use ice in the preparation of their butter, how- ever. They flatten it out into a little thin wafer, and roll it loosely, very loosely, so that what looks as large as a hickory- nut could be put into a thimble, and leave room in abundance. The little rolls come to the table, crisp and inviting, but never sufficiently abundant for a man to have two. They are sweet and unsalted, and one wishes he had more, but he seldom o-ets it. What there is of it is good, but the roll is a hollow mockery and a delusion. In Scotland they make the butter up into solid little rolls with a pair of wooden paddles called "hands," but on the Continent the balls are hollow convolu- tions filled with thin air. One of our ladies wondered why we never had cream, and asked a gentleman who was to the manner born and who spoke good English, the reason, since we were manifestly in a dairy country. Said he, "They have cream, but it is all performed into cheese." The cheese is a rank performance, and deserves to be hissed off the stage. The same man might truthfully have said that the cream is perfumed into cheese. There is one gentleman connected with the hotels of the Continent and the East who is a real blessing. He is called the concierge. He sits near the door in uniform, and subsists on the fees of the guests, and earns them. He calls carriages, assists in making bargains with drivers, gives information, sends telegrams and translates the answers, sends out packages to the laundry and returns the clean linen, and does many other things. He is also a polite eavesdropper, and when you come into the hotel and look about for your friends, he is ready to say to you ; "I hear monsieur say he will go to ze ROME, THE ETERNAL CITY -0 .-^'^-^•'em TIIK KUKIM. TIIK COI^ossKIM Courtesy of Mr. Frank C. Clark. bank-a, and mad.uiimc sa>- she will l)ii\- some: -lovfs in zc Corso, and niccl him when he rctinn-a; and zcyoim^'-a ladies say zay will-a t;o to ze Barbcrini, an' wail for nmnsiciir and madam inc." l-'l riiK OLD \\(^i-:i n IN iiii- Ni'.w ci-'.N'rrm' This is piocisi'K' what you wisli to U'.ini ; .md nou have choice of sitting ami writiiii;' a fiw postal-cards till monsieur .iml nuulanuiu' return, or of i;oini; t(^ the Barberini and look- ing;- in the mirror at Guide's Aurora in the ceiling till your friends leather there. Or. if \-ou are not (|uitt' fi'esh in your knowledge of Roman history, you may reatl this little outline to refresh your memory while you wait: Rome is said to have been founded in 753 B. C. Roman chronolog}- begins with this tlate. The letters "A. U. C," used to designate the Roman chronology, mean, ''from the founding of the city." The Vestal Rhea Sylvia, loved by the god Mars, was burned alive as a penalty, and her twin boys were thrown into the Tiber. They floated ashore at the foot of the Palatine Hill, and were nursed by a she-wolf, and pre- served alive. The two set out to build a city, and counted birds for the privilege of naming it. Romulus, favored by the gods, sau^ more birds than Remus, and excited the jeal- ousy of Remus, his brother, so that he despised the city and leaped over the wall, for which insult Romulus killed him. Such is the old legend about the building of Rome. It is in- teresting to note how often the story of Cain is repeated in literature, and the murderer of his brother becomes the founder of a city. Rome was actually founded at a date unknown, but earlier than that assigned by the tradition. Three tribes combined to make the town, and these occupied three of the famed hills of the future city; these were the Ramnes of the Palatine, the Tities of the Capitoline, and the Lucres of the Ccelian hills. The third tribe came last into the confederacy ; between the other two were the first battles and the first agreement. In the early days, while Romans and Sabines were still at strife, a marshy flat between the Capitoline and Palatine hills was neutral ground. Here trading was done, treaties were made, and meetings were held. Here were established temples, theaters, and other places of convocation, and in time triumphal arches and prisons were added for the victors and the vancjuished. Here, later, was set the central mile- ROME, THE ETERNAL CITY 4- stone, the "navel" of the empire that came to be. When the city finally was established and bounded by its walls, it was somewhat nearly square, antl occupied seven hills. Other tribes came in, and doubtless fugitives of no particu- lar tribe, as the city grew stron^-, and began to gather about llli: AK( II OF CONSTANTINK it a country — for here the capital was hrtorc the counlr}-. These newer arrivals received their lesser pii\ ileges gladly for a time; but soon it became evident that ihr representatives of the older families possessed the elements that gave tluin almost a monopoly of power — small numbi-rs. authority, privilege ami wealth. On the other siut Rome's troubles w ere not at .m end. Idle peo[)le had power, but used it fitfully, sullenl)-, and uiuKm' the c^uidance of domai^ogues. Slavei)- was powerful, and free labor had merciless competition. It became tin- i)olic>' of government to appease the populace with amusements rather than redress their wrongs; and the republic met its doom. Then came the empire, under Julius Caesar, unnamed as king and uncrowned, but first and greatest of the emperors of Rome. There was a revival of power, and a better adminis- tration of law. Hut the nation was rotten at the core. Then came a re\ival of strength from a most unlooked-for source. Christianity, starting in an obscure corner of the empire, spread along the great imperial roads, till it estab- lished itself in the very capital, and became a tremendous power. The pure lives of the disciples, the exalted system of teaching, the inspiring hopes held out to men both as indi- \idualsand as a race, and the unapproachable character of Him of whom the early disciples witnessed, often with their lives, gave the gospel power, and seemed to give to Rome new strength. In time it became, indeed, the official religion of the empire, and that within three centuries after the cruci- fixion. This was a marvelous and a beneficent overturning. Well might those who saw it in progress cry out, "These that have turned the world upside down are come hither also!" But as the Church grew strong within the State, and reli- gion became overgrown bv a svstem half-ecclesiastical, half- political, there came discord, corruption and paralysis, partly in the state, in spite of the Church, and partly, alas, within the Church itself. Then came the Goths and Vandals, and none too soon; and the Western Roman Empire fell. Other things have hapi)ened since then ; but these are the things which we recall when first we enter Rome, and try to remem- ber what makes this city on the Tiber so well worth visiting. If this book has am- claim to distinction, it is that it omits ROME, THE ETERNAL CITY 4-7 certain phrases so excellent that everybody quotes them. It is well, however, to call attention to some of the omissions. All books about Rome, written for the instruction of the tourist, contain the statement that Rome was not built in a INTKKH il< I M ^ \IN I' ri'. 11- K S clay, and cannot be seen in a day. This also is the stercotypcii introduction of the lecturer who explains the chief points of interest. Whether koine can be seen in a day depends some- what on who is seeing it, and how he fjocs at it. Konu- can- not be seen in a da\' by sitting; about the hotel and wondering; whether it is likely to rain, and whether it W(ndil not be well to postpone sightseeing till it clears up. The man with a day must get out in season and keej) going. i'our d.iys or •1-v^ rill oi.n \\(»KTi) IN riii: niw ci'N'i'um' a week will show tlu- iiulusti ions toiiiist who knows a little about the cit\" the chief points of inti'iest. \\\' were there loss than a week alto<;ethei\ but we visitetl Si. I'. mi's three times, the Witic.in twice, ami paid several visits to the l^'oiuni, the Colosseum, anil while sorely desiriiiL;- more time, saw most of the thin^i's that we cared most to see. 'I'he principal street in Rome is the Corso. It runs somewhat nearl_\' north and south, and approximately parallel with the Tiber. The j^rin- cipal hotels are on or near the Corso. At its northern end is the Piazzo del Populo, a great open oval at the base of the Pincian Ilill. From here one may make his preliminary sur- vey of the ground to be covered, and keeping his general course down the Corso, make excursions to the right and left to points of special interest indicated on the map. Thus he will keep his bearings without difficulty, and attain the first joy of sightseeing. He will do well to hire a carriage. The fare is not high, even when one adds the fee to the driver. If one ever gets lost in Rome he has only to call a cab and name his hotel, and he will soon be there. Then he can take his bearings and start anew. It is most annoying to lose one's sense of location, and in Rome it is needless. The Corso ends at the great transverse thoroughfare, which crosses the Tiber. Nearly opposite the intersection is Trajan's P^orum, with its column. Here one may dismiss his carriage, and do his sightseeing on foot for a time. Trajan's P'orum was once a narrow ridge from the Ouirinal Hill to the Capitoline, rising to the height of the column which now adorns the open space. Trajan removed the ridge in A. D. 114, and here erected public buildings. Only a part of the Forum has been excavated. The chief ornament is Trajan's Column erected in honor of that emperor's successful campaigns. It is a masterpiece of historic sculpture, the work of Apollodorus. It consists of thirty-four marble blocks covered with a series of bas-reliefs extending from the base to the top, and exhibit- ing not less than two thousand figures. Trajan is buried below it, and his statue formerly crowned its summit; but now a statue of Peter, placed there by Pope Sixtus V, sur- ROME, THE ETERNAL CITY 429 mounts it. It would make Trajan's bones turn in their tomb if he knew that his effi<^y had been displaced by that of a Christian. This is not the only such change that Rome has witnessed. A CONSTAM .scKM I . 11 II I A monument very similar t •^'^ jl Tilt: TKANSFIOUKATION, HV K A I'll AKL— VATICAN occurred, and where Cicero poured out the torrents of his invective against Cataline. Close by is the temple of \'espa- sian, of which only three marble columns remain; and near this, the eight granite Ionic columns of the Temple of Saturn. Other, and hardly less interesting, ruins are on both siiles of the ^^)rum as one looks down; and the tourist will soon descend gladly and vi.w them in detail. I^ut he must not 4.^- I'Hl". Ol.n WDUl.D IN rill. M-.W (JKN'ri'KV fail {o note [he "na\cl," the ci-iitral inilcsttiiu' o{ the Roman workl, near the Aich of Septiniius ; nor to \isit the Maninier- tine prison close at hanil. A chinch now stands above it, ami the priests are conrteous, and aie pleased with a small fee. Thex- lij^ht a candle and take one down into the horrible pit. There is a stairwax' now, bnt ori^inall)' there was a ronnd hole at the top. and throu;4h this another hole into the lower pit, antl from this hut one exit, antl that into the Cloaca Maxima, the ancient and still used sewer of Rome. Alas, this exit was often used in the cruel days of old; for many a man let down through the floor above was strangled and his hotly throw n intc^ the sewer. There is a sjjring in the prison which is saitl to have sprung up when Peter and Paul were, imprisoned there. We do not know that they were ever in this prison; hut the legend adds its own horrible interest to the place. This is one of the si)ots which no one can charac- terize so well as Hawthorne, who said of it: Methinks there cannot be in the world another such an evil den, so haunted witli black memories and indistinct surmises of guilt and suffering. Beyond the Forum is another arch, that of Titus. It has a special interest for Bible students, for it was erected to commemorate the capture of Jerusalem. Among the trophies of war, as the arch displays them, arc the silver trumpets and the seven-branched candlestick from the temple at Jerusalem. I'^or centiuies each new pope, on his way to be installed, met the Jews of Rome at this arch, and compelled them to swear allegiance to his government. The last two popes have omit- ted this humiliation of a homeless people, an act much to the credit of Pius IX and Leo XIII. No Jew loves this arch, and it is said that no member of that race will willingly pass under it. Where now the Colosseum stands, Nero had an artificial lake, and around it vineyards and wide effects in landscape gardening. Here he did more wicked deeds than it is pleas- ant to remember, and here deeds quite as wicketl were to be performed afterward. Titus drained the lake, and Vespasian, his father, set thousands of his cai)tive Jews to work on a ROME, THE ETERNAL CITY great oval building covering six acres, which, when complete, was dedicated to Titus in a series of fights lasting one hundred days. Until 405, when gladiatorial contests were abolished by Honorius, the arena of the Colosseum ran red. After a time it was used as a fortress, and then as a quarry, from 1111 I \ \ 1 1 1 1 K 1 1 M I-. whose ruins hundreds of buildings were constructed. Then it becanu- .1 woolen factor)-, tluii a saltpeter estal)lishmcnt. and then, in 1750, a church, consecrated to the martyrs who had fallen here. It filU one with profound (motions to stand wi.thin its walls, and reniember the work thai was wrought through the blood of those who suffereti her« . A short carriage drive beyonil the Colosseum is the t huich of Saint John Later.m. In ecclesiastical rank it stands even ahead of St. Pctrr's. IIiic for centuries the popes ha\'c been l,vi rill- oil) WORLD IN nil Ni:w ciinitun' installed. It is ■"ilu^ nuUlu-r of ;ill cluirchcs" of the Romish faith. 1 \'isitcil this cluireh on (Ic^od I'richu', ami heard the e.xcjuisite passion nuisic. suiil; to a crowtl o( llunisands of reverent people, who had to stantl durin;^ the service. It was the most beautiful and a[)pi-o[)riate observance of Iloly Week that came to me. Not far away is the Santa Scala ; and here were thousands of pilL;rims ascending; the stair that they believe to have been a part of Pilate's house, and so that tlown which Jesus passed to his crucifixion. The)' must ascend this stair on their knees. It was on this stair that Luther heard in his soul the message, "The just shall live by faith." There, in his heart, the Reformation was begun. Another church which one must visit is that of St. Peter in Vinculo. Here they show a part of the chain which Peter may have worn, l^ut here they show something more surely authentic, Michael Angelo's Moses. In the Church of Min- erva I saw Angelo's Christ bearing the cross. The figure is effeminate, and the cross is a toy. The great sculptor failed, as all artists fail, on the figure of Christ. But his Moses is every inch a man. We visited St. Paul's without the gate. It is a singularly beautiful structure, but wathout the slightest suggestion of spiritual warmth. Things seem built for show. It is far from the masses and the needs of men ; and its gold decora tions and its malachite altar proclaim an ostentation of reli- gion without its depth and fervor. I visited Saint Peter's three times, and with great satisfac- tion. It is a trulv beautiful building, and has about it an aii' that inspires reverence. I was not minded to follow the example of the hundreds whom I saw kissing the toe of the bronze image of Peter; I never failed to wonder how any of those intelligent-looking ones could do that ; but I joined in the spirit of the worship. I was there first on Good Friday, and the mosaics were covered, and the lights were out. Even the eight}'-nine lights around the alleged tomb of the apostle, which the guide-books say are never extinguished, were out. ROME, THE ETERNAL CITY 435 I went early on the following morning to see the holy fire lighted at St. Peter's, and enjoyed watching the glorious building lighted up again. The ceremony was impressive, and the little old archbishop who conducted it was manifestly a devout and high-minded man. I walked in directlv behind THK T1:M1M.K of VKSTA, KOMI-: him through the great bronze doors that are seldom opened, and said amen in my heart to his earnest i)rayers for the renewing grace of (iod in the hearts of men. I do ni-i> W'cui.i) IN I'HK m:w ci'.Nri'Rv Rome is a c\ty of lounlaiiis. Its aciucducts wfi'c famous of old. Six miles aloni; the Appian Way the arches of the Claudian Aqueduct displa}- their massixe ruins. This immense conduit, over two huntlred feet hiL;h, conveyed water to the citv from a distance of f(^rty-six miles. The Aqua Veri^ine is fourteen miles lont;", and receives its name from the incident of a virgin revealing- the spring to Agrippa, who constructed the aqueduct. It is built on seven hundred arches, and enters the city near the Pincian Hill. This is the chief source of supply of the fountains of Rome, among them the Piazza Navona, Piazza Farnese, Piazza di Spagna, and most famous of all. the Tre\'i. This is an enormous fountain, with a co- lossal statue of Neptune drawn by sea-horses in the middle, and around it groups, historical and allegorical. Health and Abundance are there in marble, and also the virgin who showed the spring to Agrippa. The guides told us that whoever throws money into this fountain is sure to come to Rome again. I hope to go again, but I have some misgivings lest my money thrown in when I was there before may not then be in sight. Rome is a cleaner city than I expected to find, more pros- perous, pleasant and inviting. It is not a hard city to explore. The streets are busy by day and very still by night, except only the Corso, where the shops keep open a little while after dinner. In the evening one is free even from the street venders with their little wooden cabinets of mosaic work and cameo pins. In the daytime there is only one way to be rid of them, and that is to ofTer a ridiculously small price. That will usually close the transaction by their accepting the ofTer. Once in a long time, however, it has the other, and the desired, effect. One dealer had bothered me for a long time with a really good cameo: "Fi' dollar, only fi' dollar," he said. "No," I answered for the twentieth time. "How much \'ou give?" he asked. "Two francs," I replied. lie pushed in the drawer of his little cabinet with a dis- gusted look, and said, "I shall proceed!" ROME, THE ETERNAL CIT\ 439 He Stayed not on the order of his procedure but proceeded. We spent a day in carriages, driviuL;- to the Catacombs and exploring the Appian Way, which Paul trod when he came to Rome. "And so we came to Rome," wrote Luke. Not as the accredited messenger of the churches, but as a prisoner, he fulfilled his life ambition! I thought of it every mile of the way, and could almost hear the clanking of his chains as he approached the Eternal City, and I rejoiced that the time came when he could write from there," Hut I woukl ye should understand, brethren, that the things which happened unto me have fallen out rather unto the furtherance of the gospel; so that my bonds in Christ are manifest in all the jialace, and in all other jilaces." "And so we came to Rome!" Through persecution and treacher\' and false accusation and stripes and hipwreck he accomplished what for years he had longed to undertake, antl might never otherwise ha\-e realized! If ever there was a hero, it was that man Paul. We visited the "Quo Vadis" chapel, where it is ^aid that Peter, fleeing from Rome in a time of persecution, met the Lord, and asked, "Master, where goest Thou?" W'lien Jesus replied, "I go again to be crucified," Peter in shame returned to the city to meet death bravel}- for his Lord's sake. It is a beautiful legend, with no historical foundation. The place would be impressive but for the dime museum attachment of the cast of the stone, which still shows the allegeil footpi ints of Clirist. ^'ou ma)' see the real stone a mile fuithei' on if you liave another fee for the custodian. llowe\'er, tourists like to be shown this sort of thing, and except tiie\- see signs and wonders will not believe. CHAPTER XXVI ACROSS EUROPE It Wcis my ijood fortune to bclony; to a j^roiip known on our cruise as "The Mayflower Party," composed, in i;oocl part, of my own parishioners and personal friends. We were one of several such parties, constituting- smaller units in the i;reat companv of the ship. These had hekl together during the first part of our pilgrimage, and though separated more or less in Egypt and Palestine, came together again on the ship. Then we scattered, as such parties do, and with mutual regret. Our relations had been exceedingly pleasant, and we have many happy experiences to remember. In crossing Europe, though I frequently met and accompanied others of our friends, my immediate party was reduced to five, and these were my next door neighbors at home. It is a good thing for a man to go abroad that he may meet new faces; it is also well to do so that he may become acquainted with his neighbors next door. We still are friends, and better friends for our journey together. It would be impossible to tell what all the various mem- bers of our party did and saw between Naples and New^ York. It would take another volume to describe what one little group did and observed. We gave ourselves about a month for Europe, and so distributed it as to see and enjoy a great deal. Some of our friends moved more rapidly, and were home before us; others remained longer, and were profited. A goodly number so timed their various tours as to meet the Celtic herself, fresh from an overhauling, and returned on her to America. Our little group first visited Pisa, where we saw the cathe- dral and the leaning tower, and heard the indescribable echoes in the baptistery. The custodian of the latter has a rich, musical voice, and gives a call in thirds and fifths, now major 440 ACROSS EUROPE 441 and then minor. The echoes multiply, and come back with all the chords and overtones in richest combination, and die out at last into the unseen. From Pisa we went to Florence, a journey of sixty- two miles by rail. Here we spent from Thursday night until Monday morning. Not even Rome has so much literarv BAPTISTERY, CATHEIJKAL AM) LKAMNCi TOWEK, I'ISA interest as Florence. Here Dante was born, and Galileo dieil : here the Guelphs and the Ghibellines waged their long strife- : here mediaeval commerce dcvelopetl the necessity of a new fixed value, and the gold florin took its name fn^m the tow n ; and side by side with commerce, art advanced till Florence led the world; here Machiavelli wrote his treatise instructing rulers how to keep the faith by breaking it ; and here Moccaccio, having written his Decameron and indulged in folly and sin. found seasons of fitful and futile penitence; here (iiotto built his bell tower," tall, light, and graceful as a lily stalk" ; and here even Raphael learned better how to paint. 1 1 ere, shut in from a wicked world b\' convent walls, liveti a monk whose ilreams w- VWV: OLD WOULD IN llll'. Ni:\V Cl'-NTLKV of celestial he.iuU- expressetl theniseK^os in ans^clic forms almost iiicoi-porc.il, aiul tin- woiKl foij^c^ the name of Guido, the -son of reter, anti called him l^a Ant^elico, "Angelic l^r(^ther. " In the same coiu'cnt li\(.'d Sa\'(inai'ola, who knew the A GROUP OF FKA AXGELICO ANGELS, UFFIZI GALLKKV, FLOKENCF wickedness of society, and the sorrows of the poor too well to be silent; and, his soul all afire with righteous zeal, poured out his eloquent exhortations till wicked Florence stopped its ears and burned him. Florence also has interests more modern; for here lies buried Theodore Parker, the American friend of freedom for all men ; and here Elizabeth Browning wrote Aurora Leigh, and here she died. We visited the art galleries of the city, beginning with the L'ffizi, with its Tribune, a room full of masterpieces, contain- ACROSS EUROPE 443 ing two Venuses by Titian, Correggio's Madonna Adoring the Child, Raphael's Madonna of the Goldfinch, and other noted paintings by Durer, Michael Angelo, Rubens, and Domeni- chino. In tlie same room are a few works in marble, amone them the Knife-grinder, the Young Apollo, and most beautiful of all, the Medici Venus. This is one comprehensive room, arranged, apparently, to bewilder and entice the beholder with Jill-: CATHKUKAI. AM) CilOTTOS TOWTR, TLORKNCE a foretaste of the richness of the collections that remain for him in the classified rooms be\-ond. After seeing several miles of masterpieces in llu' rffi/.i. we visited, but on another day, the I'itti Palace. There u r saw some of the most frequently copied paintings in the worKl, including Raphael's Madonna of the (irand Duke, so gentle and fair; Murillo's Madonna, with the ileep. dark eyes of mother antl Child; and most famous of all. tlu- Madonna of the Chair. The\- tell this stor\- in Florence about this |)icture. A pious and aged hermit, having been rescued from death in a great storm by Mary, a vine-dresser's daughtrr, predicted that to thi-^ M;ir\' \\"m1,| . ..ni'- -i"ti;il honm-. M.n\- m.iv h.ivc Ill INK OlA) WORLD IN 1 1 1 1-. NKW CKNl'LiKV kcjit these t.hiiii;s in her heart .uul poiuK-retl them, hut whether she did or not. she i^ave her heart to a co(~)per, and the two made their home in a sechuletl \alK'\- amoni; the \'ine\'ards. Thitlier one (hi\- came Raphael with his pupils, and seeing M.ir_\" se.Ued in a chair on the porch with the \'ines about her, one child hv her sitle and cnie younger in her arms, he seized PIAZZA DELLA SIGNOKA, FLORENCE, WHERE SAVONAROLA WAS BURNED upon the subject as a model. The boy by her side became the young Saint John, and the babe in arms the infant Jesus. Rut Raphael had no canvas at hand; so he painted the pic- ture on a barrel-head. The attendants assure you that the framed canvas in the gallery is the head of a barrel; this is not true, but there is nothing improbable in the story that the sketch at least was so made. Every line in the painting shows that it was fashioned with reference to a circular frame. We attended the American Church, hlpiscopal, in Florence, and heard a good sermon; there, and in the Scotch Presby- terian Church in Naples, the previous Sunday, fervent prayer ACROSS EUROPE 445 was offered for the President of the United States. We visited the great cathedral, most in\iting without and disap- pointing within; and went twice to San Marco to see where Fra Angelico painted and Savonarola preached. There is something fascinating in the portrait of the latter by Fra Bartolommeo. The features are heavy, and the shadows are so deep that one sees at first little more than the profile against THE TKlHLNi:, I KFl/.l (JAI.I.KKV, KLUKli.NCE a black background. I^iit as one turns the frame a little ti) the liizht — it is hinged to the window casing in Savonarola's cell — and studies it a w iiilc, the monkish garb comes out, and the features light up w ilh a spirituality that one tloes not at first discover. The jjainting is a masterpiece, and the man depicted a heroic and jM'ophctic soul. I had already made several resolutions, >ulIi .i> '.No moic mosques; no more cathedrals; no more winding stairs to roofs to get the view." 1 now adtled, "No more art galler- ies," but I broke the resolution as soon as we found another gallery, and I shattered it to bits at the Louvre. Hut it was a relief .iftv Mr^. I'. H. Nrwcll ])il\- may be interpretetl by the faithful contemporary copies which stand before it. Here, too, in the cit\- where X'^erdi died, I heard II Trovatore, and fouml a packed house, listen- ing with enthusiasm; and the wonder of it was that there was no ballet, and no one seemed to miss it. Thence throui^h the district of Itali.m lakes into tiir moun- tains we rose to the summits of the Alps, and passed through tiic St. Gotthard tunnel. One thing here surjirised me, namely, that several of the tunnels that appiM.ich *',,• ..,-» 452 rill". OLD woKi.n in riu. m:\v ci:\rrRV arc not ni.ulc to escape hills hut to ixhIucc i:;Tailcs, and ascend in spirals in the heart of the mountain, douhlini;' on their own track, once ov twice, or e\'en thrice. A little study o{ the acconipaiiyini;- map of some of these tunnels will pro\e instructixe. The map of W'assen and vicin- it}-, for instance, shows that but for the clind), the road niii^lit THE KIALTO Photograph by Miss Grace A. Ross have been built with no tunnels, and with no bridefes over the Reuss, and only one over its principal tributary. The road actually has three nearly circular tunnels at this point, besides five shorter tunnels, live bridges, and a wide double loop. All this is done in little more than a mile as the crow flies; but many miles have been traversed, the station at Wassen has appeared and disa])pcared, again and again, now on this side and then on that, now above and then below; and by the time it is shut out of sight by the Rohrback Tunnel, the train has risen two hundred and fifty-six feet from its entrance to the Pfaffensprung Tunnel. ACROSS EUROPE 453 Our next stop was at Lucerne, where we spent a m'ght. After all the odd vehicles we had seen, I found none more interesting than the milk-carts of Lucerne. They are drawn by men and St. Bernard dogs. The dog takes one side and the master the other. The dog lies down and guards the wagon while the master goes inside the customer's house with THE CAMI'ANILK ANO SAINT MARKS, VKNICK milk; and then the two yoke-fellows draw tiicir load aloiiLT together. Mere we saw and admired Tiiorvaklsen's " Womuieil I^ion," holding up to sad immortality the memory of republi- cans who dietl to maintain a corru])t and hopeless monarch)'. We reveled in the lore of William Tell; we N^okeii with rejoicing on the .Alpine peaks; we sailed the length of Lake Lucerne and back; we bought some carved wood souvenirs; and we enjoyed the place, the people, and the e.vperience. Ihcn we came to liale, whose people surprised us b\- their almost uniforml)- good dress, robust health, ami pleasant 131 mi'; OLD WORLD IN 1111. M;\V LllNllKV demeanor; \\x- ilrin'c .ihiuit the city, crossed tlie Rhine, and came hack ai;ain ioy a sleeper to Paris. If this l)ook contains an\" word c-»l' \\isiUin\ for future- tourists, it is, l)on't pa\' five dollars for .i sleeper to I'.iris. I shared a compartment with a man so friL;htenetl \)y m\- presence that he dared not take off his o\'ercoat. and we made each other mutualK' uncomfor- MILAN CATHEDRAL table. The customs of^cers woke us at midnight for their perfunctory inspection. The train went fast, and joltetl hard; and tlie night was an uncomfortable one. Those did better who went by day, or who stretched out in the day coaches. He who undertakes to sit up and gets a little sleep rejoices that he is so much aliead of his expectation ; but he who pays to sleep and cannot accomplish it is a double loser. Then came Paris, and a delightful visit with old friends who are there in government service. My old parishioner, Major William 11. Williams, European agent of the United ACROSS EUROPE 455 States Treasury Department, came to the liotel, and bore me off to his home. Consul-General Gowdy lives in the same pleasant apartment hotel, and it was good to find so much of the United States in one place as was comprised in these gentlemen and their families. The Major has two music boxes which play patriotic airs, and he sets one of them at The Star Spangled Banner, and the other at My Country, 'Tis of Thee, as soon as he wakes in the morninij, and croes TMK I, A'^T SUl'l'ER DA Vl.NCl S OKKAl IMi II K'l \s 11 \rn\Ks |ii|)\S to bed at night to the combined strains of The Red, White, and Blue, and Home, Sweet limine. If ever .i man did the riglit thing b)- a former pastor, the MaJDi' did it. and witli trratitude to him I am abli: to sa\' thai frw nu-n ii.ive ever seen so much of Paris, or seen it so well, in foii: days as I was able to do through his kindness and that of Mrs. Williams. I am not intending to tell what I saw, but onlx' to awaken an envious feeling in the hearts of my fellow-tra\-eiers who were at the hotels. Durintr the time of m\' \iNit cum- the demonstration in favor of America, in the benefit concert for the McKinK-)- monument: but it \\.i^ Sarah Bernhardt'^ picture, aiul not 456 fill'. DLl) \\^^)KLU IN lllK NKW CKNllKV MoKinlox's. that adiMiu-tl tlic souxciiir programme. The lady herself awakened enthusiasm w liich lier reach'iig ih'd not ileser\-e. \o\- it was spiritless and |u'rt iinetoiN-, and such as no woman would ha\-e wntured to present to sueh an audience r ■2v% THE DA VINCI MONUMENT, MILAN unless her reputation had been made already. There were other noted performers, each giving an act or bit of an act, from some play then on the boards, and worth advertising at the expense of the United States. I shall not advertise them by giving their names, for they do not deserve it. The presi- dent of the French Republic attended, and remained in his box long enough to be seen by the reporters; and all the papers agreed that it was an overwhelming testimonial of the ACROSS EUROPE 457 warm feeling of the Republic of France toward her sister republic across the sea; and General Gowdy came home so loaded with flowers that there was not room for nie in the elevator with him. But 1 will take mv countrymen into mv confidence enouerh to sav that whatever "-ood feelineople in that city, and in tin- •15^^ ■ni OLD WOKI.U IN I M;\\ CKNTl'UV ovoniiiL;' pic.icliod. by iiu-italion. to about a huiuh'ed American students in the Latin Ouarter, a cbstrict now ahii(~)st past recognition. The scrxice was heUl in a stiub'o, with the work of tlie students all about on the walls. I do not remember OVER THE ALPS BV RAIL to have preached amid frescoes less ecclesiastical, but I enjoyed the service. The young people were a wholesome company. I learned a few things, however, about the brutal- ity of some teachers and the immorality of others which will cause me to hesitate some time before advising young Ameri- cans to study art or music in Paris. I was sorry to leave Paris before the opening of the Grand Salon, with its annual dis[)lay of works of art. There was ACROSS EUROPE 459 much talk about it when I was there, witli more than the usual complaint against the commission on the part of disap- pointed artists and their friends. It was afifirmed that the desirable space in the exhibit is largely monopolized by medal- ists whose works no longer are subject to rejection, and that M \ 1' III- slMK \I II SMI >N often i)aintings of real merit must gi\e place to those with little to recommend them JDUt a noted nainr. Moreover, it was charged that members of the commission anil others in authority arc often teachers, ambitious for their ])upils, and disposed t(j secure their works a place in the Salon. i".\cn harshei' words than these were spoken; but when did a jury of artists ever escape without censure, or a hanging committee avoid the danger of being hung? Out of some six thousand pictures submitted, about six luindreil are chosen ; and thr number of rlisappointed artists is legion. .fXnoiher exhibit had just been opcned^ — that of ihe Impus- sioni'^f-^. th'- '-^i i< ii'f i'' di-^ Aiti^t^ Indi'nind.inl <. 'I'hcii i \ liibit 460 THI'". OLD WOKI 1) IN 1111. NK\V CKNIim was hcKl in tlic I lorticult uimI Iniildiii^', oiu- of tlu' l.Wi^c expo- sition huiklin^L^s. '['he sli'iuLuic, with others staiuh'ii^- near the bountiful Pont Alexamh-e, also erected for the Paris Exposition, makes one wish that our Ameriean expositions THE WOUNDED LION OF LUCERNE Photograph by Mrs. F. B. Newell were built for permanence, and not with a view to immediate demolition of the fine structures when they have served their first purpose. The building itself is neither better nor worse in its architecture than many that have been constructed and de- stroyed since 1893 in Chicago, Atlanta, Nashville, Omaha, and Buffalo; but it is built out of something more solid than stafT. Why may not expositions in our own country hereafter aspire to construct abiding monuments in the Iniildings themselves, and plan them in advance for such uses that they can remain? ACROSS EUROPE 461 The impressionists have refused to stay put. A while ago they were giving us everything in bright yellows and light pea- greens and ubiquitous i)urplcs. We were just learning, under their instruction, to detect more shades of greens in the land- AMurc. Olio scarclu's tin- catali')ijuo in vain for a motive back of these drearv aiul uioihiil can\-ases. rhere is a complete lack of motix'c. 'riicre is ccMispieuous absence of classical, mytho- logical, ami historic, il subjects. 'riiere ai'e n(^ captive Helens, no l^lusliinL;' Susann.ihs. no militant Jiuliths, no overwhelmed Sabines here. There are no timitl l^\es or secluded antl i)re- occupied Ma.gdalens. There are no Dianas riding high on the new moon; no wood n\inphs in their s\-lvan bovvers; no mer- maids sporting in their native element. Instead there are "Femmesau Bain," " l^TMumes Nuees," "Femmesau Miroir," "Femmes an B6 VWV. 0\.\) WOULD IN THE NEW CEXirKN' riicrc is a p.issioii lor this relief paintiiiL; in ciiulc colors. In scttrcs o( pictures there is no use of tlu' brush \\hate\'t"r. The palette-knife beciMiies the sole instrument of torture. The artist i)uts in his transverse \\a\}- lines of ^reen on the bottom of his picture, and fills in the top with whatever comes to hand, and the earth and the .sky are created and smeared on with the blunt knife. Then if he can N( I.I' r 1( )N, IIV MIKIIIO, III!, lot VKK and an hour and a half fioiu Calais. We had a L^ood passage from Calais to Dover, which was well. Some of those who had borne a good reputation as sailors on the cruise had an unexpressed fear th;.t the\' owc-d their good fortune to the steadiness of our good ship, and chcrishccl some anxictx' for t7i> riiK oi.n \\()i>:i.i) in ■nil' m'.w ckntl'uv tlic small chamu'l boats; hut the Channel was as smooth as a mill i>oncl. antl .ill i)( us i^ot owr nicely. It was hulicrous to see some of the passengers, not of our i)art\-, hut local travel- ers, who rushed on hoard as if s^oini; to a fire, sought out the first six feet o\' vacant bench, and la\- d(n\ n ilat, nor stirred nor opened their e)'es till the boat tied up to the wharf at Dover. Such is tlie result of the Channel's bad reputation. Probably the passengers had learned from experience to treat tlie Channel with respect. I ha\e heard that — There was a young man from Osteiid Who meant to hold out to the end; But when half-seas over, From Calais to Dover, He done what he didn't intend. Then we saw London. After a visit to the Orient, Lon- don seems very much like liome; and after the ancient civili- zations which cluster around the Mediterranean, it is very modern and up-to-date. An American who has wrestled for weeks with other ami xarious languages, singly and in combi- nations that would i)ut Isabel to confusion, rejoices in his return to a land that speaks the English tongue, even though it is not quite so well sj^oken as in America. And that reminds me that I saw in Paris a great sign advertising the teaching of the English language, and surmounted by the American flag. The flag was, in the thought of the teacher or sign-painter, the proper symbol of the King's English. Shall we come to speak of it as "the President's English"? Everything in London was fitting for the coronation and doomed to come to unforeseen grief. Each man with a front window overlooking the route of the procession was advertis- ing the window to let, and at prices that raised the question whether with the window he included the sale of the house. One argument served to help along the sale of the seats. American millionaires would take them if Englishmen did not. One's first impression was, that an American would need to be a millionaire to afford a seat, but when one .sa\v how many windows were offered, he began to think ACROSS EUROPE 471 that there might be a chance for one of more moderate means. Although the thoughtful people of England confessed to a sad feeling of contrast between Victoria and her son, the king seemed to be very popular, and the queen still more so, with the people; and the theaters and music halls were dis- playing their portraits on very slight provocation, and amid really hearty cheers. The British people love the idea of THE BOIS DK KOLOGNK, PARIS monarchy. There is strength in that which gives per- sonality to the abstract conception of nationality and government. In some respects it is easier to sing God Save the King, than God Save the Coniinoiiwralth — the idea is more tangible. Kngland has been so long without a king that one frequently finds "Ihr Majesty" still wrilten, where "Mis Majesty" ought by this time to appear; hut 4o\ernineiit shouKl he acce])ttHl. Mi". Halfoiir niade the anmnineenient (luietly. and sat down quickly. There was no denionstiation, hut soon a \\his])ered conference bct^an anuMiL;- nienihers, which ;^rew more exciting as they realized more full\- that the ^nvrnment made this announcement as an indication of gootl prosjjcct of peace. A few moments later, as I passed out, 1 met Lord Salisbury entering the almost empt}' House of Lords, where he could find no oppo- sition leader to whom he could give a hint that a question would bring welcome news. Some one, generally of the opposition, asks questions, ami the representatives of the governing party have to repl}-, and commit their party by their answers. It is a sad thing for a prime minister to have a fine answer up his sleeve, and no one there to ask the ques- tion. But, fortunately. Lord Salisbury succeeded in getting a question asked as to the conduct of the war and the pros- pect of peace, and so made the reply identical with that of Mr. Balfour. Here, also, it was received without demonstra- tion. But the newspapers were out soon with large headlines, and the people were talking about the near approach of peace, which they were eager to see before the coronation. 15ut it was the coronation, and not the end of the war, that was postponed. I had several conversations with Englishmen concerning tlic present good feeling between England and America. We ao-reed that it is well for us to know each other better, and that we are in process of learning each other; so our good feelino- is getting on a permanent basis. One London gentle- man said, "You know, I think one reason we haven't liked you Americans any better is that the Americans who come over here are not all of the best sort." I thought this might not be complimentar)-, but he went on to except present company, which was certainly good of liim, and to give some instances where Americans have acted unwisely or worse. ACROSS EUROPE 473 "But then," I expostulated, "we have never pretended that all the fools were British." He was a very good man, but he did not seem to know the answer to my little thrust, and so \vc talked about some- thing else. In London our party, converging toward Liverpool, got together enough of its members to make an impression once '•- .-Mi»-rf!?f HOLYROOn PALACE AM) AkTULKS J^EAT, EDIXBl K(.ll more. Even Joseph Parker knew of our presence, and having about seventy of us in his congregation on Sunday morning, disregarded the others and preached to us. "Ah, you tourists," he said, "who go abroad, and boast for the rest of your lives over those who have not had llie money or the holiday, and hoi)e that we won't attempt to verif}' your statements! You are always growing ecstatic over the wrong thing. \'ou tell us of the ]*\'ramids; I'd rather see the Pyrenees! There ne\x'r was a pyramid built that couldn't be taken in ,i barrow, bit by bit, and (hnnpitl into the sea! Vet \-ou p.i\' a luindred pounds to see the Pyra- mids! You eat sandwiches on .Sinai, antl picnic in the garden 474 Till". 0].V \V(^KI.n I\ Till': XF.W CKNTURV of ricths(.'n"iaiic I Wni look at relics, and tliul ihc supply always cqiMl to llu- iK'inaiul. \'(Mi iua\' sec the site of Calvary f(M" a shilling;', aiul another site ot the same place for anotlier shiih'ni;. anil if \-ou"\e a shilling left \'ou can sec a feather of the cock that crew \\ lien Tetei" swore 1" Dr. I'arl llll- 1)1 D WOUl.n IN llll' M'W CIINITRV next sto|ij>C(.l. a street lair was in pr(\L;ress. and slioueil some interest in;;' phases of life. lliie I proenretl a earriage and drove to Ecclcfech.in. the l)ii lliplace of Carh'le, and lii.s place of burial. Then eanie a journey to Liverpool by rail, antl as there still remained st^ne hours before the ship sailed, I made a short trip b\' lail to (juaint okl Chester, and then, with two companions, took a drixe to llawarden, the home of Mr. Gladstone, just across in the edge of Wales. I am not pretending to describe the portion of the journey after lea\ing the ship, but only to tell how a touri.st with a mi^nth to spare may use it to good advantage between Naples antl Lix'erpool. ««^ TWO YOUNG KO.MANS CHAPTER XX\1I HOMEWARD BOUND There is something to be said in favor of superficial sight- seeing. It is common enough to read in some pretentious works of travel, the little jibes and slurs at tourists who "do" a city in twenty-four hours, and a continent in a fortnight. The least thing to be said in favor of rapid sightseeing is that a superficial visit to historic scenes is far better than none at all, and that most people who do their sightseeing rapidly, choose not between that antl the more leisurely method, but between that and no visit at all. This, howexer, is not all that can be said in favor of a pilgrimage on the rapi^^l-transit plan. He who has a short time to spend and knows it, often hurries to the scenes of real importance and of striking inter- est, while those with more time at their disposal sometimes employ it in desultory sightseeing with comparatively little method and purpose, and so lose in the mass of detail that which is distinctive. All in all, it is far better to see things in a leisurely way, as every one knows; but those who ha\e the leisure and the money to remain ]oni;; in a place and see it to their heart's content, too often look with thinly veiled contempt upon those who may be getting the essential fea- tures of that which they have come to see. One gets out of a tour very much in proportion to what he brings to it. lie who has done little reading, and u ho goes from place to place with languid interest, may squander niucli time and have little to siiow for it beyond his jjurchases in the bazaars; but he who has some real knowledge of the points visited, ma\' obtain in quick succession the most striking features of man\- diffennt places. Wherefore, let not him who goes abroad often, and tarries long at each place of historic interest or artistic fame, despise him who takes a Ijrief vacation in .1 liop-sllcl "i^ldhe li'otter" has m.iiiy interesting stories to tell of personally contluctetl parties hurr\iiig past scenes of trrcat renown with hardK' more than a glance. One of these described to nic w ith great gusto the way in wiiich a group of lioston girls ilid up the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. They all wore short skirts, and iMpine hats with pins stuck straight through the top. They also wore eyeglasses and cameras, and followed a conductor who took them A\ith great rapidity from rooiji to room. In they bustled, following the lead of their conductor, who gathered them in each room around a single picture. In language such as this the experienced traveler quoted the guide's description: "This room, ladies, is indicated in your catalogue as number five, and is devoted to paintings of the Tuscan school. This picture is the Nativity, by Fra Bartolommeo. Whis-s-s-t !" The final exclamation is supposed to express their precipi- tate flight from this into another room, where they were again assembled around some masterpiece. "This room, ladies, is room number four, the Tribune, the richest room in the world, erected at a cost of one hundred thousand dollars. This most noted work is the Venus de Medici, which was found in the villa of Hadrian in the six- teenth century. Whis-s-s-t!" It is to be hoped that this was more or less an exaggera- ti'^n, and that the short-skirted, Alpine-hatted, eyeglassed, and camera-laden company from the Hub really got more out of their exploration of the gallery than the more experienced traveler could have believed possible. But it is better to go to the Ufifizi and see a few masterpieces and remember them, than to see all and forget the really great paintings in the bewildering array of only moderately interesting works. It is not necessarily a disgrace that one sees things rapidly, nor a proof that he can from them obtain no benefit for himself and for others. Let me add further, that a very large part of the benefit HOMEWARD BOUND 479 derived from trav^el mii^ht be had at home if people only believed it. The woman who is an invalid at home, but is perfectly well on shipboard, would probably be benefited on land if she got as much fresh air as she does at sea. If she would wrap herself in a steamer rug and sit upon the porch as many hours a day as she sits upon the deck, or walk as vigorously in the face of the wind at home as she does when taking her daily constitutional, it would be better for her digestion and her disposition. The admiration which people ex- pend on the moods of nature in foreign parts, also, could often be duplicated at home if the tourist ever saw nature in the home-land. He who stands outside his tent in Syria, and re- turns home willi the impression that the stars are ne\'er so bright anywhere else as in that cloudless sky, where their brightness shines out against a background of inky black, can find nights in any part of America, when tlic stars are just as bright and the heavens just as black, if he will but shut off the gas and step out of doors. And he who wearies you with his description of the glory of Italian sunsets and the blue of tile skies of Switzerland, can find just as blue skies above Chicago, and just as glorious sunsets across Lake Michigan, if he will only step out of doors and look at them. With our more variable climate, more patience may l)e requisite if one would behold any given phenomenon; but if so. the wiiiety we have at home is the greater. lie who relleets a little about the things which have interested him most abroail. will be surprised to find how many of them can lie obtained .it home. Nevertheless, the journey is well worth tlu' making. The return voyage of the Celtic was no pait of the organ- ized cruise, though she hail on hoard three hunched and si.xty- two of the formei' Celtic tourists and foity additional first-class passengers, making the still verj- large total of foui luimlicd and two cabin passengers. Besides those, she caiiied two thousand and sixty-seven steerage passengers, the l.irgot number ever convened in a single voyage by any vessel. .She- had a crew of three hnndrc-d aiitl foit>--seven, making a grand total of two thousand eitdit hundred and sixteen, the lar-'cst .}So Till' CI 1^ woRi.i'i i\ I'll I" \i:\v c'l'.x'rrm' number oi souls cx'cr canicd across the ocean in a single ship. The iniiui^rants as .i wliolr were a line \n[. 'l"he)' were ahiiost \\holl\- n'ouul; men ami women. Somewhere from Iwentx-five to twent}'-eii;"ht wouKl have been an average age. There was no case (~>f illness among them — barring slight sea- sickness. rhe\- were a health}', sturcK* lot. At Naples we hail seen thousands of Italians taking ship for America. Wc could but contrast them with the line lot of people wc saw tlail)- on the Celtic. The (Mie class was dirty, ignorant, and full of latent \'ice; the other was vigorous, fairly intelligent, and energetic. The countries that have bred these stalwart men and vigor- ous women and nc^urished them till they have become produ- cers can ill afford to lose them now. The country that receives them adds greatly to its wealth in their coming. Day by day I watched them at their s[)orts on deck, and studied their faces as they filed past the half-open door of the lower prome- nade deck, and there was hardly a bad face among them, while there were many strikingly good. Of these more than 2,000 people, 135 were American citi- zens already, and were returning from visits to their old homes. Of the remainder 25 were /Vustrians; 26 were Danes; 28 were Dutch; 46 were English; 197 were Finns; 5 were Germans; I lone soul was from Greece; 759, the largest number, were Irish ; 314 were Norwegians; 6 were Russians; 3 were Scotch; 517 were Swedes; and 5 Welsh. There was one lone immi- grant from Sparta; therefore, on this tour, Greek did not meet Greek. Here were people enough to fill the Mayflower a score of times, gathered from many- lands, and their children born in America, will attend the public schools and declaim about our Pilcfrim Fathers as ardentlv as anv native American, and share ■with the Daughters of the American Revolution the pride of loyal hearts in the deeds of our common history. Those who feel, as I have often felt, the jjcrils of our immigration, would find a study of the Celtic's steei^age aiii HtJM i:\VARU BOUND 4S1 encouragement to optimism. With a great price some of these people have attained to that wliicli we, the free-born, may too lightly value. The truest descendants of the Pil- grims may sometimes still be found in the steerage, rather than in the first cabin. Welcome to our shores, you two thousand of our fellow- OUK UECORATKU BA(;GAGE Photograph by Miss Anna M. Matthews tourists! The quarantine regulations shut us apart ugh to walk off witii it. While we waited, almost every person present, under pretext of exercise, or without any excuse whatever, took a walk across the waiting-room anR1.1> IN Till' Xl'W (.'I'N'ITRV a more or less minute inspect ii>n. It l)eL;.in to occur to mc that 1 sIiouKl ne\-ei- he comfortable on the tr.iin until I secured a new satchel; for, saiil I to myself, "If the)- tlo such things in the i;"rccii tree, w h.it will the\' do in the dry? If in New ^'o^k .uul within a biscuit's throw of the salt water women show such reverence and men such possibly contemptuous attention to a bag that has been to Egypt and Jerusalem and certain other places, what will it be when 1 reach the interior?" When I got on the cars there were people who went down the aisle and w'ere tempted to sit down with me, but looked at that bag and passed on. I got home at last, and it is ncnv safely housed in tlie attic, where it attracts little attention. Whether 1 shall ha\e courage to take it upon the train at any future time remains to be seen. The moral of this tale is. Get your labels early and put them on as \'ou like. You can buy a new bag if you want to, but there will be a momentous hour near the end of the voyage when you might as well * appear at an Oriental marriage without a wedding garment, as to come on deck with a bag that has no labels. But in the first lonely hour when \-ou board a train with a satchel that proclaims \-our itinerary in a shrieking chorus of color, you will wish that \'ou had dropped it overboard outside the harbor. We made a cjuick trip across, and were glad of it. We had packed awa\' our guide-books and had no letters to write. The diaries were long since forgotten, and the cash accounts were too far behind to attempt to rescue. The passengers had time to play at quoits and shuffle- board, and to rest a little. The nights were nearly two hours longer than when we went over, and the meals were eaten with satisfaction. And so, without special incident, and happily without acci- dent, we arrived in New York. Among the more than eight hundred who sailed on our cruise and made the pilgrimage of the Orient, there had been no death, and no serious accident in all the weeks of our journey. As soon as we got on shore, we bought .Vmerican news- papers. To our surprise, nothing seemed to have happened HOMEWARD BOUND 4S3 while we were gone. We did not appear to have missed anv issues. The Boor war, the situation in the PhiHppines, the Presbyterian creed discussion, the debates in Congress, \\ere all where we had left them. Things began to happen as soon as we returned. The l^oer war came to an end; the situation in the Philippines took a marked turn, let us hope for the better; the Presbyterians decided to modify the creed; and Congress adjourned. This made us feel that it was well we had stayed no longer; and reconciled us to the experience of a flying pilgrimage to see how the old world enjoys the new century. If this book is to have a preface, this is tiie place for it. Prefaces are alwax's written last, but are put first, in the au- thor's vain attempt to square matters with the world and his own conscience. This preface shall be put where it belongs. We finished our journey, and came safe to land, anil if we are not thankful for tlie tour, we ought to be. The discomforts are forgotten; the delights live in the memor\- of all. Is there one of us all who is not hoping some time to make the journey again? I have told tiie story of our pilgrimage, antl here and there have slipped in ;i little information about what we saw, in the honest endeavor to make the book of \alue. It only remains to add a benediction upon those who were of our party, and if possible one yet more sincere upon those whom we left at home. With special reference to one of these whom the writer would gladly ha\e had with him, and wdio was in his thoughts in ever}' hour of ])leasure, this book is dedicated, "To those who t.irr\- with the stuff." A portion of the contents of this book was written whiU- abroad, and sent home in letters to The lioston Transcri])!. The Chicago American, The Advance, also of Chicago, and The Oaks Magazine of Three Oaks, Mich. .Several of the illus- trations first appeared w itli these articles in The Oaks, and are used by courtesy of its editor. Mr. I'l.uil. < '"lark, organizer of the Cruise, has furnished me a number of cuts; and the White .Star Line has added tin- viiws