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TRAVELING IN EUROPE 
 
 A series of letters 
 contributed to the 
 OWSGO TIMES 
 
 during a year of travel 
 in Europe, July 1900 to 
 July 1901, by 
 
 GEORGE MATTHEW BUTCHER 
 
 H 
 
 President V/hite Fellow 
 in History, Cornell 
 Universi ty 
 
 OWEGO, NEW YORK 
 1900-1901 
 
IRY MORSE STEP 
 

OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, AUGUST 30, 1900. 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 GEORGE M. DUTCHER, OF OWEGO, 
 WRITES AN INTERESTING LETTER. 
 
 He Gives an Interesting Account of Hi* 
 Passage Across the Ocean, Together 
 With a Description of Cherbourg and 
 the Trip to Paris. 
 
 COLOGNE, Angnet 4, 1900. 
 My Dear Sir : 
 
 It w'as on the hot and sultry evening 
 of the 6th of July, at eleven o'clock, 
 that tne Lackawanna train took as a 
 passenger a yonng man who had seen 
 but little of the world ontside of Owego 
 and Ithaca, and started him on a tonr 
 which in less than a month was to take 
 him into fonr European countries, 
 Thanks to Cornell University for award- 
 ing me the President White Fellowship 
 in History, which carries with it the 
 privilege of travel and stndy in Enrope. 
 I had the good fortune to be that young 
 man. 
 
 The preceding weeks had been busy 
 ones. The closing up of seven years of 
 study and work in the University meant 
 the doing of many things that one had 
 intended to do at some time before leav- 
 ing the University, which must be done 
 then if ever. Then there were the 
 good-bye's to be said to the friends of 
 the past seven years, and last of all there 
 were the hundred and one last things 
 that one always finds to do. When I 
 had finally left Ithaca, Owego furnished 
 no relief, for then there came all the 
 work of preparing for several months 
 of travel. The fuss and worry before 
 the last necessary thing has been got 
 together and packed and the last grip 
 strapped is something that can be ap- 
 

 
predated only by one who has gone 
 through it. Thus there was a certain 
 feeling of relief when the train started 
 and I knew that everything that could 
 be done had had been done. As for an- 
 ticipations, I was too much taken up 
 with the present to worry about them. 
 In Binghamton, I found my cousin, 
 Dr. Sboutenburg, waiting in the station 
 to speed me on my way. After Bing- 
 hamton, I indulged in somewhat futile 
 attempts to sleep, but the futility of 
 my efforts became so evident as the 
 train climed Mount Pocono, that I gave 
 up the effort. Here the dawn was just 
 beginning to tinge the east and gradual- 
 ly the golden glow increased, and the 
 outlines of the mountains, valleys, 
 trees and towns became more distinct. 
 Then came the glorious sunrise, with 
 its views of the Delaware Water Gap. 
 By the time the train had crossed the 
 Jersey meadows and landed me at Ho 
 boken, another hot summer day was in 
 full sway. In the station at Hoboken I 
 found friends who were to sail by an- 
 other boat, but they were able to pre- 
 sent me to friends of theirs who were to 
 sail on the same steamer as I. Thus was 
 the first steamer acquaintance made 
 on land. My first care was to go to the 
 wharf of the Hamburg-American line 
 from which my steamer, the Phoenicia, 
 was to sail, and to see that all my bag 
 gage was safely disposed. A shipload of 
 immigrants had just been landed and 
 the hubbub and confusion especially 
 the confusion of tongues was bewilder- 
 ing. By dint of bothering three or four 
 German employees, I succeeded after a 
 quarter of an hour in getting all my 
 goods properly cared for. In the pro- 
 cess, I discovered a young man with a 
 hat that matched my own madly tumb- 
 ling over the baggage piece by piece. A 
 second glance, however, assured me that 
 the mad energy was but a temporary 
 outburst, for he was a suave graduate 
 student and instructor from Cornell, who 
 was to be my fellow-traveler to the 
 foreign shore, where he was to pursue 
 the study of medicine at Leipsic. His 
 luck, however, was not so good as mine 
 for a six hours' search of the baggage- 
 
rooms of Hoboken and New York failed 
 to bring to light the suit case in which 
 he had bestowed his most valued word- 
 ly possessions; a losa for which the mon- 
 ey compensation paid by the company, 
 conld give little satisfaction. Later, I 
 discovered at the same process of hunt- 
 ing for baggage my other fellow-travel- 
 er. He, too, was a graduate student at 
 Cornell and an instructor; and he, like 
 myself, had good fortune with his bag- 
 gage. This friend further resembles me 
 in the taste for history and for some 
 time our lots will be cast together in 
 Europe, but ultimately he will go to 
 Berlin and I to Paris for onr settled 
 work. The suburban trains and the fer- 
 ries brought in some friends who came 
 to bid us God speed. Exactly at 12:30, 
 my friend who lost his baggage, con- 
 cluded his search and crossed the gang- 
 plank, and five minutes later we were 
 swinging out into the Hudson river, 
 amid the waving of handkerchiefs and 
 the shouts of farewell. 
 
 The sight of two disasters greeted onr 
 eyes, the burning tanks of the Standard 
 Oil Company at Bayonne,and the ruined 
 wharves of the North German Lloyd 
 Line, which adjoined those from which 
 we sailed. We were proud of the Phoenicia 
 and her officers for the efficient work they 
 had done the previous Saturday in saving 
 and caring for so many of the victims of 
 the great fire. The Phoenicia is primarily 
 intended for carrying freight, but has also 
 accommodations for a large number of 
 steerage passengers, and about 150 
 cabin passengers. The ship is built on 
 such lines that the rolling and pitching 
 motion are reduced to a minimum, thus 
 insuring as smooth a voyage as possible. 
 The vessel is not a swift one by any 
 means for, since she averages only 300 
 knots a day, she requires from ten to 
 eleven days for the trip. The Pooenicia, 
 however, holds one record. A few weeks 
 ago she landed in New York nearly 
 2,200 immigrants, the largest number 
 ever landed by one ship at one time. On 
 our trip the ship carried 127 crew and 
 675 passengers. More' than two-thirds 
 of the passengers were steerage, of 
 whom the larger part were people of 
 
foreign birth returning to their home 
 land for a visit. There were a few im- 
 migrants who had not been allowed to 
 land, and were boing taken back to En- 
 rope. These inclnded a family of gyp- 
 sies numbering about twenty and repre- 
 senting three generations, forming 
 a never-failing object of interest 
 throughout the voyage. The cabin pas- 
 sengers were of three classes natural- 
 ized citizens of the more prosperous sort 
 who are on their way to the Fatherland, 
 a large party composed chiefly of Alba- 
 ny and Brooklyn people in charge of a 
 tourist company, and lastly a few occa- 
 sional travelers like ourselves 
 
 As soon as we had lost sight of our 
 friends on shore, we went below in 
 search of the dining saloon, only to be 
 informed that we must wait an hour or 
 so. Accordingly we next searched for 
 the purser, who being a kind-hearted 
 fellow, was ready to serve us. We in- 
 vested our small change in souvenir pos- 
 tal cards and stamps and forthwith bua- 
 ied ourselves with farewell notes to our 
 friends. Another visit to the dining- 
 saloon was better rewarded. At onr 
 table we found agreeable people with 
 whom we were not long in striking up 
 an acquaintance Opposite us was a 
 young lady who promptly settled to her 
 own satisfaction, who we three were. 
 Her peculiar ideas she later confided to 
 us. The suave young medical student 
 was a clergyman in charge of two boys 
 on a trip to Europe, the two boys being 
 my historical friend and myself. Oddly 
 enough we two had always considered 
 ourselves as properly sedate, and looked 
 upon our friend as frivolous rather than 
 clerical. After dinner we got on desk 
 just in time to see the pilot leave the 
 ship with our letters. It was to be ten 
 days and a half before we should have 
 any communication with the rest of the 
 world. 
 
 Oar voyage was a quiet, uneventful 
 one. Occasionally we passed within 
 sight of another vessel; occasionally we 
 would pass through a shoal of fish, and 
 frequently birds were in sight, some- 
 times in large numbers. On our first 
 Sunday afternoon we encountered a 
 
dense fog, which was punctuated with 
 blasts from the whistle every minute 
 of the two or three hours that the fog 
 continued. The next morning we had 
 a shower which lasted a little while. 
 On Saturday afternoon wind began to 
 blow and the sea became quite rough, 
 and it was not until Sunday night that 
 the usual calm was restored. By Mon- 
 day night the sea was like glass, and so 
 it remained during the rest of our voy- 
 age. The temperature was an agreeable 
 change from the heat we left behind, 
 and at no time was it unpleasantly cool 
 We three were people of pride and took 
 the greatest care to appear in the dining 
 saloon at the regular hours three times 
 each day, and to spend the rest of the 
 time on deck. A deck chair and a 
 steamer rug furnished a luxurious ease, 
 which one was loath to quit even for 
 the dining saloon, and even at midnight 
 a stateroom berth offered but slight in- 
 ducements. Some were not so fortu 
 cate with their pride as we, and vacant 
 places were to be noted, especially dur- 
 
 i ing the rough weather of the second 
 j Sunday. Two ministers who were 
 | among the passengers, conducted ser- 
 vice in the dining-saloon each Sunday. 
 
 As usual, birds of a feather flock to- 
 gether, for we made most pleasant ac- 
 quaintances among some young college 
 graduates like ourselves, Yale, Prince- 
 ton and the University of Minnesota be- 
 ing represented. Together we whiled 
 a.way many happy hours with stories, 
 songs and the games popular on ship- 
 board, such as quoits, ring-toss and 
 shnffleboards. One afternoon we had a 
 field day in athletics, with running, 
 .jumping and wrestling. The evenings 
 we liked to spend at the bow on the 
 saloon-deck in the full light of the moon, 
 until 10:30, when we went to the dining 
 saloon for the lunch which we consid- 
 ered a necessary conclusion of the even- 
 ing. College men have an inexhausti- 
 fund of scngs and stories, and thus we 
 ! had a change of programme every night. 
 ! In spite of the opposition to co-educa- 
 tion manifested by' the representative 
 from Yale, the ladies were allowed to 
 

participate in onr festivities, and this 
 the more readily because the Yale rep- 
 resentative had on board a yonng lady 
 cousin of whom he was very fond. The 
 crowning event in onr series of enter- 
 tainments was on the second Saturday 
 evening when our jolly purser was our 
 guest of honor. He was presented with 
 a book of poems. As the book could 
 not be purchased we had to make it, 
 poetry and all; each person contributing 
 an original poem. The good purser re- 
 galed us with stories of the sea, especi- 
 ally of his own experiences, which in- 
 cluded several fires and shipwrecks, 
 
 On the second Monday evening a con- 
 cert was given by some of the passengers, 
 and attended by nearly all the cabin 
 passengers. The proceeds, amounting 
 to $120, went for the benefit of the 
 sufferers in the Hoboken fire. One of 
 the steerage passengers had been robbed, 
 just before sailing, of four or five hun- 
 dred dollars, all his savings for the past 
 eight years, and was left utterly desti- 
 tute. A purse was made up by the 
 passengers, sufficient to take him and 
 his family to his former home in Ger- 
 many. One other incident is worth re- 
 lating. The first Sunday night as we 
 were gathered at the bow, and were 
 singing hymns, two little girls from the 
 steerage came shyly up and stood at a 
 little distance listening most intently. 
 i We noticed them and asked them to 
 1 come and sing for us in German. They 
 | did most gladly, but great was our sur- 
 ! prise when they started up in English, 
 "At the cross, where I first saw the 
 light." Then we asked again for some- 
 thing in German, but they said they 
 knew nothing by heart, and must get 
 their book. They went in search of it 
 and soon returned with a book, and 
 apologized because they could not find 
 the German one. We asked them to 
 sing some from the book they had, which 
 they did, giving several gospel hymns 
 and closing with the Battle Hymn of the 
 Republic. In this book they had copied 
 with pencil nearly a hundred hymns, 
 and had carefully indexed them. We 
 learned that they were from Minnesota, 
 and with their father, were on their 
 
way back to Germany. A better illus- 
 tration of the ability of the American 
 people to assimilate the immigrants 
 could hardly be found. On board the 
 steamer, however, everything was thor- 
 oughly German. The mother tongue of 
 every member of the crew was German, 
 and only a few of the higher officers 
 knew more than a few words of Eng- 
 lish. Most of the passengers were Ger- 
 man-speaking, and those who were not 
 were obliged to muster up such German 
 as they could, and those who knew no 
 German had perforce to learn a few 
 phrases. The cooking was German, but 
 there were fewer strange preparations 
 than one would have expected, and we 
 were able to enjoy our meals heartily. 
 Only one thing did we find it impossible 
 to manage, and that was the chocolate, 
 which contained a far larger proportion 
 of chocolate and sugar than we could 
 find courage to drink. German drink- 
 ing customs were prevalent, and for us 
 who had not learned to conform to these 
 customs, mineral water was a necessity, 
 as the ordinary water carried by the ship 
 could scarcely be classed as drinkable. 
 A last word in regard to the offi- 
 cers and then I will turn to the 
 story of our last day on board. Of the 
 purser and his genial manners I have 
 already spoken. Without doubt he was 
 the most popular official on board. Next 
 in order should probably be ranked one 
 of the doctors, a small active man of 
 nervous temperament and with a great 
 fondness of music. The captain, who 
 was not to be seen so frequently, was a 
 large, good-hearted man, but quite re- 
 served. He has been a captain, making 
 constant trips across the Atlantic, for 
 eight years, yet his wife has never made 
 the voyage, as she is not allowed to tra- 
 vel on the same ship with her husband, 
 though she might travel by any other 
 vessel of the company on a pass. 
 
 On the evening of the second Monday, 
 we began to notice evidence of our ap- 
 proach to the English Channel for sev- 
 eral ships were visible on our horizon. 
 All Tuesday morning we were constant- 
 ly sighting the vessels, both steamers 
 and sailing ships, some of which were 
 
very email. All day long we were in 
 sight of the Marquette of the American 
 Transport Line tor London. The morn- 
 ing we spent in adding postscripts to onr 
 letters and writing postals telling of onr 
 safe arrival. As we came on deck after 
 dinner, we homed to the bow to catch 
 the first sight of land. At first it ap- 
 peared like a cloud extending along onr 
 horizon for some distance, then we 
 conld discern a needle-like streak of 
 white the Bishoprock lighthouse, the 
 western-most point of the Scilly Islands. 
 Then slowly the outlines of the hills, 
 could be distinguished against the sky. 
 Then we were able, little by little, to 
 make out the several islands. They are 
 small, some of them mere rocks that 
 scarcely rise above the water; others 
 are single rocks rising sheer out of the 
 water, and only a few of them are large 
 enongh to be counted as islands. Even 
 their shores rise in most places in high 
 cliffs from the water's edge.Picturepque 
 they are to be sure, but inhospitable 
 and forbidding even when they are the 
 first land one has seen in ten days. One 
 no longer wonders that the historian 
 speaks of the Phoenicians as hardy ad- 
 venturous sailors, when he recalls that 
 it was to these islands they came, un- 
 known centuries ago, to fetch the tin 
 which enabled them to supply the na- 
 tions of antiquity with their bronze im 
 plements and weapons. As we passed 
 the lighthouse our signals were rung 
 up and, in a few moments, New York 
 had learned that the Phcrnecia was 
 safe. Soon we were again out of sight 
 of land, but in a short time we were be- 
 ing treated to a beautiful view of the 
 greatest naval and commercial people 
 of our own time. We began to discern 
 on the horizon directly ahead of us war- 
 ships. Our interest was at the highest 
 pitch, for the condition of the Chinese 
 question, according to our latest 
 information, was most critical, and 
 we could not guess what unexpected 
 developments ten days might have 
 brought forth. In a few moments 
 we were able to distinguish twenty- 
 two vessels, and later a few 
 more. Before long we could mark the 
 
movements of the vessels and discern 
 that they were merely maneuvering in 
 a most peaceable fashion. The fleet 
 was composed of English naval vessels 
 of all sorts, from the largest battleships 
 and fastest cruisers to the small torpedo 
 boats. We passed near enough to bnt 
 one of the vessels to read its name. It 
 was the Sirius, which belongs on the 
 Devonport station. The sight was a 
 most magnificent one as the vessels be- 
 came distinctly outlined to ns and as 
 the lishthouse and the shores of Corn- 
 wall arose to form the background of 
 the picture. Just as we were passing 
 the fleet, our bow was crossed by the 
 North Grerman Lloyd steamer Lahn, 
 which had sailed from Hoboken on the 
 Tuesday after we did. For some hours 
 we sailed wichin sisht of the shores of 
 Merry England, until the lighthouse of 
 Cape Lizard had been passed, then as 
 night came on, the English coast was 
 lost to view. The beautiful moonlight 
 and the quiet sea formed pleasant sur- 
 roundings while we told our last stories, 
 sang our last songs and took our last 
 promenade up and down the decks. In 
 the afternoon we had boldly talked of 
 the uselessness of attempting sleep 
 during the night for the captain had an- 
 nounced that we were to be called at 
 three o'clock, breakfasted at four, and 
 landed at five. It was not long after 
 eleven, however, that our courage gave 
 out and one by one we stole away to 
 snatch a few hours of sleep. 
 
 It was not yet three o'clock when we 
 were called, so that we were able to get 
 on deck in time to see the dawn, and to 
 watch the gray of the horizon gradual- 
 ly become clearly outlined to us as the 
 shores of France, and later we watched 
 the sun rise from the sea on the oppo- 
 site side of the ship. At four a light 
 breakfast was served, after which we 
 found our waiters all lined up about the 
 door to say goodbye, and incidentally 
 to allow us to give them a tip the first 
 of many, as we have learned. Then the 
 pilot came on board to take ns to our 
 anchorage off the Cherbourg break- 
 water. He brought the news that the 
 
Phoenicia's thirty-sixth trans-Atlantic 
 voyage was to b3 her last, for a time st 
 least, as she was under orders to con- 
 vey a body of German troops to China 
 on which errand she has just this af- 
 ternoon, Angnst 4 sailed from Bremer- 
 haven after a farewell speech to the 
 troops by Prince Henry. 
 
 Cherbourg itself is a qniet old town 
 of 40,000 people, but its surrounding hills 
 and its harbor have been made into one 
 of the strongest French fortresses, and, 
 after Brest and Toulon, the most im- 
 portant naval harbor .and dockyard in 
 France. The city is situated on the 
 northern coast of the peninsula of the 
 Cotentin and opposite Southampton. In 
 its neighborhood have taken place many 
 a struggle between the English and 
 French, notably Admiral Russell's de- 
 feat of Admiral DeTourville in 1692, 
 and Lord Howe's successful attack on 
 the fortifications of Cherbourg itself in 
 1758. In Cherbourg the envoys of the 
 Confederate States prepared a banquet 
 in honor of the victory of the Alabama 
 over the Kearsarge, but, after watching 
 the battle off the harbor, they concluded 
 that there was no need of serving the 
 banquet. The present greatness of Cher- 
 bourg dates from the time of the Em- 
 peror Napoleon who began the construc- 
 tion of the enormous breakwater which 
 stretches a distance of 4130 yards across 
 the mouth of the harbor, with a breadth 
 at the base of 100 yards and at the top 
 of GO yards. At either end are massive 
 forts. Near the centre are two other 
 forta, one of which is crowned by a 
 lighthouse, while guns are mounted in 
 groups of five along the whole length of 
 the breakwater. To the west of the 
 city is the vast naval harbor, with its 
 dockyards, magazines and barracks, pro- 
 tected to landward by massive earth- 
 work fortifications and to seaward by a 
 series of forts, in connection with the 
 forts on the breakwater. Curiously 
 enough these great works, which were 
 designed to offset England's naval har- 
 bor at Plymouth, were opened on the 
 centennial anniversary of the last Eng- 
 
 lish attack on the city, in the presence 
 of Napoleon III. and Queen Victoria in I 
 
1858. The islets in the harbor, the main- 
 land opposite the eastern end of the 
 breakwater, and the hills back of the city 
 are all carefully fortified. In the centre 
 of the town the inner harbor, with its 
 quays, has been constructed entirely of 
 stone, like everything else about the 
 town. With such quays a Hoboken tire 
 is an impossibility. 
 
 It was our good fortune to see Cher- 
 bourg and its harbor under the most 
 advantageous conditions. When the 
 tender at last made fast to the side of 
 our ship and we had said goodbye to the 
 friends (notably our friend the medical 
 student) who were going on to Ham- 
 burg, and had got aboard the tender, 
 the first news to greet us was that Pres- 
 ident Loubet was to arrive in Cherbourg 
 in the afternoon to witness a review of 
 the fleet, and other events connected 
 therewith. This was truly an opportuni 
 ty not to be missed, and we determined to 
 make the most of it. Our next demand 
 or news from China, but wo found 
 that ten days had not materially altered 
 the situation, so far as the newspapers 
 ! were concerned, for they were still sure 
 ! that the Ambassadors had been mur- 
 dered. We passed back to the friends 
 on board the Phoenicia these bits of 
 news, shouted a last goodbye, and then 
 turned our eyes to a careful examina- 
 tion of the fortifications as we passed 
 them at close range, and of the three 
 dozen war vessels lying in the harbor, 
 among which we threaded our way into 
 the inner commercial harbor. Snch a 
 view of the fleets of two great nations 
 on two successive days was an oppor- 
 tunity seldom offered, and one which 
 we enjoyed to the utmost. On the tender 
 we found, in full uniform, the health 
 officers of the port and the customs of- 
 ficials. With the latter of these we 
 were to have personal dealings. As soon 
 as we landed we opened our grips in the 
 presence of one of the officials, he asked 
 if we had any tobacco or cigars, and on 
 assurance to the contrary, stuck his hand 
 in the grip as a matter of form and put 
 a white chalk mark on it. The whole 
 business was over in less than a minute. 
 
Throughout Western Europe there seem 
 to be but three classes of things which 
 the customs official is after in examining 
 baggage. They are tobacco in all forms, 
 matches, and all sorts of beer, wine and 
 liquor. Our next business was to get 
 our ticket to Paris, and settle on what 
 train we should go, and to get our mon- 
 ey changed into French currency. We 
 next looked up a hotel the Hotel de 
 France et du Commerce where we left 
 our luggage.and then set out to find the 
 railroad station and a telegraph office in 
 order to send home the expected cable- 
 gram. At 10 o'clock we sat down to 
 dejeuner at the hotel, with the tourist 
 party, which, like ourselves, was on the 
 way to Paris. Our tables were spread 
 in the large banqueting hall of the hotel 
 and made a very pretty sight. Here we 
 had our first introduction to French 
 cooking and French drinks. The cook- 
 ing was not up to the French standard, 
 but we were hungry and did our duty 
 by what was set before us. Here it be- 
 came necessary for me to bring into use 
 for the first time the little French I 
 knew in order to find what substitute 
 for wine I could get. With some diffi 
 cnlty,! managed to get a bottle of Vichy- 
 Etat.an article which I have since found 
 to be the one mineral water that one can 
 be reasonably sure of getting any where 
 in France. This, my first meal in France, 
 cost me a dollar, a price which I have 
 learned to divide by two and even four, 
 with good results. 
 
 After our dcji>nnrr, we started out 
 to see the town. I had three ex- 
 periences all at once, which I was 
 destined to repeat many times. A few 
 doors from the hotel, our eyes were 
 caught by some souvenir postal cards 
 in a window. We went in and invest- 
 eda custom which we have followed 
 in each town since. The storekeeper 
 took us for Englishmen and every 
 where since then we have been called 
 English and never once American 
 When we explain that we are from 
 America, the chances are that we will 
 be considered as from South America. 
 In France, ''Anglais" was constantly 
 muttered behind our backs, and that in 
 
a tone not indicative of either fondness 
 or indifference. Even here in Germany, 
 the two thoroughly German names of 
 Rammelkainp and Dntcher, and the 
 characteristic German features of my 
 friend have failed to prove a claim 
 against the appelations of "Englander" 
 and "em paar Englander" which we 
 hear behind onr backs constantly, in a 
 tone that is not altogether affectionate. 
 Neverthless the good storekeeper had 
 something that interested me a stock 
 of second-hand books and I did not 
 leave till I had looked them over to my 
 satisfaction. We wandered thence 
 down along the quays and there found 
 an equestrian statue of Napoleon, with 
 an inscription in which he compares 
 the work of constructing the break- 
 water to which he points, to the con- 
 struction of the pyramids. Nearby we 
 found the church, a building of the 
 15th century, which was being carefully 
 repaired, like every other old building 
 we have since found even the Cologne 
 Cathedral. 
 
 The heat, which was just as intense 
 as we had left in New York eleven days 
 before, overcame our curiosity and we 
 boarded the street cars for a ride, not 
 knowing whither we were going. This 
 street car was a curious little open af- 
 fair, propelled by a locomotive steam 
 engine, out of all proportion to the size 
 of the car. The conductor, like all 
 street car conductors in France, sold us 
 tickets, at three cents each, instead of 
 ringing up our fares. The ticket is not 
 collected, but the passenger throws it 
 away on leaving the car. The train 
 took us to the westerly suburb of the 
 city and landed us near the fortifica- 
 tions We took the opportunity to ex- 
 amine them and learn what the walls 
 of a city of the present day are like, and 
 to look over the French soldier, a 
 batallion of one of the famous 
 regiments marching past, for our benefit. 
 
 The festivities at Cherbourg and this 
 visit to the suburbs gave us an insight 
 into the life of the peasants of the Co- 
 tentin. The houses in Cherbourg and its 
 suburbs are all of stone, with roofs of 
 
varions aorta of tiling. The people ap- 
 pear hard worked and care worn, while 
 their costumes are quite peculiar to onr 
 eyes, especially those of the children 
 and the men, who wear a long black 
 gown-like jacket as their outermost gar- 
 ment. This we have fonnd to be the 
 regnlar garb of the children, especially 
 of the boys, bnt we have not seen it 
 worn by the men elsewhere. One thing 
 that I have noticed everywhere from 
 Cherbourg onwards is the frequency 
 with which mourning is worn not only 
 by women bnt by men and children, 
 Another custom which we noticed here 
 for the first time, was the use of dogs to 
 draw the carts in which the produce was 
 being taken to market. The streets in 
 the older parts of the town are narrow 
 and lacking in cleanliness, sewerage fre- 
 quently flowing in the gutters. 
 
 Soon after 3 o'clock we made our way 
 back to our hotel, collected our baggage 
 and located ourselves as near the rail 
 road station as possible. Here was a 
 triumphal arch erected for the occasion, 
 and Chinese lanterns, flags, and other 
 decorations galore. In the streets in 
 front of the station, were drawn up the 
 troops of the garrison of Cherbourg, sur- 
 rounded by crow("-y of citizens and vis- 
 itors. Promptly ,it the scheduled time, 
 3:50 P. M , the firing of the Presidential 
 salute from the fort above the station 
 announced the arrival of the President's 
 train. After a moment's delay, the 
 President appeared, accompanied by 
 several officials from Paris, and escorted 
 by the local officials. In the open square 
 in front of the station, surroanded by 
 the troops, the President was formally 
 welcomed to the city, and the various 
 necessary formalities were observed. M. 
 Loubet is by no means an imposing per 
 son. He is short and rather stockily- 
 built. His hair and full beard are al- 
 most gray. His face is a cairn, quiet 
 one. There was nothing in any way 
 striking or spectacular about him, his 
 diess, or his behav\or, so that M. Loubet 
 does not appeal to the French people in 
 the same way as did his predecessor, M. 
 Faure. 
 
Access to the compartment can be had 
 only from steps running the length of 
 the car on the outside. There are, how- 
 ever, a few "corridor trains." These are 
 made np of vestibnled cars with an aisle 
 along one side and compartments seat 
 ing eight persons on the other side. 
 Smoking is allowed everywhere except 
 in compartments marked for non-smok- 
 ers, or ladies only. Handbaggage may 
 be carried without restriction, as with 
 ns, but the free limit for checked bag- 
 gage is from fifty-five to sixty five 
 pounds, and the rate of excess baggage 
 Is very high so that one must carry as 
 little as possible. The arrangements for 
 the checking of baggage are far less con- 
 venient than with us. The locomotives 
 are generally much smaller than the 
 American ones, and have no cow-catch- 
 er. The freight cars, like the passenger 
 cars, are very small and resemble little 
 coal "jimmies" which were formerly 
 in use in the United States. Much of the 
 switching is done by horses. The num- 
 ber of persons to be carried in a coach 
 or the load of a freight car is carefully 
 marked on the outside, and these figures 
 must not be exceeded. The trains run 
 on the lefthand track instead of the 
 righthand one as with us. The time 
 throughout France is that of Paris and 
 is a trifle earlier than that of Green- 
 wich, but the trains always run five 
 minutes behind schedule, the railroad 
 clocks being kept five minutes slow for 
 this purpose. The telegraph poles, 
 which are, of course, the most familiar 
 sight from the car windows, do not have 
 the wires attached to long cross pieces, 
 but each wire has a short iron arm all to 
 itself. These arms are arranged in order 
 down either side of the pole to within 
 about ten feet of the ground. The 
 French railroads, although they are not 
 owned by the State, are, never- 
 theless, under direct State control. 
 The monopoly of a certain section 
 is assigned to a corporation, thus 
 the good effect of competition is lost, 
 and no vigorous effort is made to im- 
 prove the equipment and service of the 
 road. The valuable x^art of the arrange 
 ment is that the State may at any time 
 
bay np all the roads, without involving 
 any loss because of the existence of com- 
 peting lines. The railroad officials are 
 not visible on the train, bnt are to be 
 fonnd in quantities at the stations; the 
 most cnrions thing being that the tick 
 ets are not collected by a conductor on 
 the train, but are punched at the start- 
 ing point and collected at the end of the 
 journey, by station officials. 
 
 Our parry on. the way to Paris con- 
 sisted of eight of the former passengers 
 of the Phoenicia. The trip took us near- 
 ly eight hours, during half of which 
 time we were able to watch the scenery 
 carefully. The Cotentin, after we passed 
 the hills around Cherbourg, proved to 
 be a level country not much above the 
 sea level. The water courses are numer- 
 ous, but very small, and have each bank 
 lined with trees, which consist of the 
 trunk with a few leaves along the upper 
 part and at the top a tuft, of young 
 branches. This trimming of the trees 
 is to prevent the development of foliage 
 in order to stimulate the growth of roots 
 and' thereby hold the banks intact. The 
 industries of the country are gardening 
 and dairy farming. The people do not 
 live in the country to any extent, but in 
 the numerous compact little hamlets 
 built around the parish church. The 
 houses are mostly of stone, with thatched 
 roofs. The railroad stations are not in 
 the villages, but just on the outskirts, 
 or, as is frequently the case, the rail- 
 road runs half way between two towns 
 about a mile apart and has one station 
 for the two towns. After passing Ca- 
 rentan, we crossed the little rever Vire 
 and entered the plains of Normandy, 
 where the scenery continued to be much 
 the same. We passed through Bayeux, 
 known to us because of the famous tap- 
 estry preserved t here, and came to the 
 old city of Caen, where we stopped for 
 half an hour. Hunger drove us to make 
 a raid on the railroad restaurant, where, 
 with the aid of many motions and an 
 occasional French phrase, I collected 
 enough lunch for the crowd at what I 
 then regarded as the extravagant sum 
 of one dollar and eighty cents. I have 
 since learned that I had managed 
 
to satisfy eight appetites at a very 
 reasonable figure, but, at the time, 
 nine francs sonnded like a mnch larger 
 sum than a dollar and eighty cents. 
 The fact that the nnit of currency is 
 only a fifth as large as onrs has a most 
 useful effect in producing economy. 
 From Caen to Paris our compartment 
 was shared by two men from the French 
 navy who were on their way from Cher- 
 bourg to Toulon. One of them knew 
 some English and G-erman, consequent- i 
 ly we were able to carry on something 
 of a conversation. Near Lisieux we j 
 entered a somewhat hilly country, and j 
 passed through a tunnel a mile and 
 three-quarters long. The rest of the 
 way to Paris seemed to consist largely 
 of tunnels, which are certainly far 
 more frequent than on American rail- 
 roads. After passing through several 
 other old towns, such as Evreux and 
 Mantes, our train stopped in the train 
 sheds of the enormous Gare St. Lazaire 
 (St. Lazarus station), in Paris. Here 
 we found the agents of the tourist com- 
 pany awaiting our friends, so we bade 
 them farewell. Directly we discovered 
 another Cornellian, a member of the 
 class of '99, who was waiting for us 
 and soon had us in a cab driving past 
 the Madeleine, across the Place de la 
 Concorde, the Pont de la Concorde and 
 down the Boulevard St. Germain, and 
 thence across to the Boulevard du 
 Montparnasae to his pension, or board- 
 inghouse. Here, thanks to the kindness 
 of our good friend, we were to spend 
 eight days while viewing the Exposi- 
 tion. Paris and the Exposition were 
 for another day and form another story. 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 GEORGE M. DUTCHER. 
 
OirEGo TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY. SEPTEMBER 13, 1900. 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Dut< her Writ** another Intt-r- 
 'ter. 
 
 ' 
 
 ;i new ami strange life to 
 which we av\ 
 Thnr.-day. the i'.'th of Jnl 
 the in. -titl brer. 
 
 containing i'nr br- -r. as the 
 
 h call it. 
 >f a crip 
 
 and a bit of barter for 
 d.bnt 
 
 iay be had. 
 
 Bread come.- in ronml i meter 
 
 that it is actually bought 
 ^ meter. In servii 1 - 
 
 aal to 
 
 abinr fonr or ti\>- - "roui these 
 
 petite 
 
 the French brr 
 
 1. brittle crn-t 
 
 !t. The 
 
 all it t" snit yonr : 
 iiail been hav. 
 
 liar break -t so innch 
 
 unpr- - 
 
 frieinl who hail \ 
 lomeil to a !.< 
 
 snch si>*vinien> nl' Amt-ri.-an Inxnry. 
 
 , f 'iul had made a Blight ; 
 
 artedont to see Pari:> by 
 the liirht of day. The offices of the tonf- 
 .nd bank-- 
 
 aronnd the ( |.era honse on the 
 north siile of the river more than two 
 miles from onr ro mi. 1 jr 
 walk this d. ,t to 
 
 the ast.misln:: 
 
 -iiment which WM 
 bv the apparent boldness with which 1 
 
struck out for the place, and turned 
 corners and down narrow streets or 
 boulevards as "the case might be, and 
 brought him out to his destination, the 
 American Express office. From thence 
 we visited several other places on er- 
 rands, until my friend's appetite de- 
 manded another peace-offering. We 
 forthwith searched out the nearest Du- 
 val restaurant where we indulged for 
 the first time in the mysteries of a Pari- 
 sian menu. With slight trouble we suc- 
 ceeded in making a good American 
 meal of what the Frenchmen calls his 
 dcjcinicr. The Duval restaurants, of 
 which there are a large number scat- 
 tered all over Paris, were started by a 
 M. Dnval about twenty five years ago, 
 and now form one of the great institu- 
 tions of the city. Except in the original 
 establishment the waiters are all wo- 
 men, attired in black gowns with white 
 aprons and caps. On entering one re- 
 ceives a printed slip upon which the 
 waiter checks up his orders. Every thing, 
 oven to the napkins, is charged, though 
 the meats as a rule include a side dish 
 of potatoes, beans or some other vegeta- 
 bles, Wines are generally served, but 
 one can get almost any other drink. 
 The prices are very moderate, and a 
 meal can be had at anything from one 
 franc (twenty cents) upwards, and for 
 two francs one fares well You pay your 
 account at the cashier's desk and leave 
 the slip at the door as you go out. The 
 waiters depend upon the ''tips" for their 
 wages. On leaving the table, you hand 
 them, or leave by your plate an amount 
 * qual to five or ten per cent, of your ac- 
 counts. It was on entering this restaurant 
 that we discovered our second Cornell 
 acquaintance in Paris, a member of the 
 class of '99. 
 
 The next experience was a peculiar 
 compound of railroad employes, cus- 
 toms officials and cab drivers The prob- 
 lem to be solved was how to get my trunk 
 and convey it to my room. The railroad 
 station was easily discovered, but like 
 the Grand Central in New York, it was 
 another job to get into the right part of 
 it, which could only be done by going 
 around outside and down the street for 
 
some distance. Then there was still the 
 bother of finding the right room. It was 
 dnring this process that a nnifomied in- 
 terpreter came np and offered his servi- 
 ces. With his assistance the trnnk was 
 soon fonnd and was passed by the ens 
 toms official, without opening, npon my 
 statement that it contained no wine, 
 tolvicco, or cigars. Then my interpreter 
 called a cab, bnt by this time the cus- 
 toms department was closed. A small 
 tip sufficed to get the door open and the 
 trnnk ont, and all was well. The porter, 
 of conrse, most have his "tip" but the 
 interpreter was not entitled to expect 
 any. However, ontof gratitude I gave him 
 fifty centimes (ten cents) with as much 
 fervor asif it had been fifty cents, which 
 he accepted in the spirit in which it 
 was given. The cab took na down the 
 avenue de 1' Opera and through under 
 the Louvre, and across the Pontdu Car- 
 rousal and thence by the narrow streets 
 of the Latin quarter to our room. 
 
 Cabs are the most numerous sort of 
 vehicle on the Parisian street, and can 
 be found anywhere at almost any hour 
 and will take one to any part of the 
 city. They are, in many ways, the most 
 convenient though not the cheapest 
 mode of transportation. The fare is one 
 franc and one half (thirty cents) for 
 drives begun between seven in the morn- 
 ing and twelve-thirty midnight, with a 
 tip of twenty-five centimes (five cents) 
 to the driver, which is called his "pour- 
 boire," that ia "for a drink." The night 
 fare is fifty per cent. more, and baggage 
 is carried at twenty-five centimes apiece. 
 The cabs seat two persons but three 
 may ride without discomfort and many 
 of the cabs also have a small folding 
 seat which may be used by a fourth per- 
 son. There is no extra charge for the 
 extra number of persons, but it is cus- 
 tomary to give the driver two francs for 
 a trip or "course" as it is called, with a 
 little more in case of more than two 
 persons, or of a very long conrse. It is 
 conducive to pleasant relations with a 
 driver, especially in the evening, to se- 
 lect one whose "depot" or station is 
 nearest your destination. These depots 
 are indicated by the color of the lights. 
 
The number of cabs in Paris seems to 
 be somewhat over 17,000, as in the 
 conrse of a single drive I noticed num- 
 bers, ranging all the way from IS np to 
 17,200. The cabs are all owned by one 
 company and the drivers are required to 
 tnrn in a definite sum each day to the 
 company. What they make over that 
 amount is their own. The amonnt 
 which they are reqnired to pay has re- 
 cently been greatly increased and has 
 led to a strike on the part of some of the 
 drivers. 
 
 Having safely located my trnnk in my 
 room, we stopped for a moment to rest 
 and think how hot it was, then we set 
 ont for an introductory peep at the Ex- 
 position. The tickets of admission are 
 not sold at the gates as at Chicago, bat 
 
 were all bought up by the Credit Lyon- 
 nais and other speculators. The Credit 
 Lyonnais has kiosks near most of the 
 entrances, and, as holders of the bulk of 
 the tickets, try to keep the price up. The 
 tickets are also on sale in many of the 
 shops and by street venders all over the 
 city. The nominal price of the ticket is 
 one franc (twenty cents) but the price 
 has fluctuated from day to day. The 
 average I found to be thirty-five cen- 
 times (seven cents), though one day the 
 Credit Lyonnais sold them at thirty 
 and the street venders are said to have 
 sold them at as low as twenty centimes. 
 The highest price I paid was forty-five 
 centimes. From 10:00 A. M. to 6:00 P. 
 M. one ticket is required for admission; 
 at other hours two are demanded, and 
 on certain special occasions four are re- 
 quired. During my stay in Paris the hot 
 weather kept the number of daily ad- 
 missions, including passes, under 150,- 
 000. The cooler weather increased 
 ^.he number to 175,000, or 200,000. 
 On Sundays the number is about 400,- 
 000 The exposition authorities printed 
 o7,000,000 tickets, of which only 17,000,- 
 000 were used during the first half of 
 the time for which the exposition ia to 
 be open. This fact, with the renewed 
 hot weather, is tending to reduce the 
 price of tickets still further. 
 
 [CONTINUED NEXT WEEK.] 
 
OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 1900. 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Dutcher Writes another Inter- 
 esting Letter. 
 
 (Continued.) 
 
 Seven o'clock fonnd us back at our 
 room for dinner. Throughout France 
 this, as well as the dejeuner, is served 
 t<il >li' d" hote. The cooking at onr pen- 
 sion we found excellent, and the menn 
 good. Several kinds of meat were served, 
 one after the other, each with its side 
 dish of potatoes, beans, lettuce, salad, 
 or something else. As nsnal I found the 
 ordinary red table wine, the drink reg- 
 ularly served both at dejeuner and din- 
 ner, at neither of which tea or coffee Is 
 served. I discovered that others at the 
 table, who had been long enough in Pa- 
 ris to know, were drinking the water, 
 so I indulged with boldness and impu- 
 nity, and had ice with it. Paris water is 
 of three kinds, all of them Seine water, 
 but differing in degree. The water in its 
 natural state is used for the streets and 
 such purposes. For household purposes 
 this water is filtered so that it becomes 
 tolerably clear. The faucets for this wa- 
 ter bear the sign '"non-potable." Some 
 of this filtered water is subjected to cer 
 tain processes, by which it is further 
 purified and sterilized, and then sup 
 plied for drinking purposes. Ice for table 
 use is also supplied with like care under 
 municipal direction, and has ceased to 
 be the luxury which it once was in Pa 
 ria, for we found it everywhere in com- 
 mon use. The abundance of meats on 
 the menu, which I mentioned, is bal- 
 anced by the omission of certain dishes 
 in great favor with us, notably pies, 
 cakes and puddings. Less bread and 
 vegetables are supplied. The desserts 
 consisted of cheese, with wafers, and 
 fresh fruit or green almonds. 
 
 It was at dinner that we met Monsieur 
 and Madame and the other boarders 
 
Monsienr had been an army doctor, and 
 as such had seen service in Algeria and 
 Tnnis, but a few months since he had 
 been retired with a pension. He is 
 about fifty years of age, and as active 
 and talkative as the Frenchman he is. 
 Madame, who comes from the sonth of 
 France, is a rather stout woman, with 
 the pleasant, friendly manners which 
 one associates with Southern France, 
 bnt also with mnch of the quickness 
 and excitability that belong to the name 
 region. Monsienr and Madame talk 
 nothing bnt French, and talk that all 
 the time, so that although all the board- 
 ers are English or Americans, one learns 
 a great deal of French in spite of him- 
 self. The boarders were moat of them 
 no interest tons, but in three of them, of 
 besides the friend of the night before, 
 we fonnd Ithaca friends, a mother and 
 two daughters, one of the class of 96 
 and the other of the class of 99 Of course 
 we had a lively time in dispensing to 
 them all the Ithaca and Cornell news of 
 the year that had elapsed since they had 
 left home. They, too, had news for ns 
 of other sorts, notably that another 
 Cornell friend was in Paris, bnt would 
 leave the next day, which meant a call 
 that evening So, with the member of 
 the class of '96. we set out to cross Pa- 
 'ris once more. Neither of ns boasted of 
 an extensive knowledge of French, or of 
 Paris, but we were not di c concerted by 
 that fact. We entered our cab, gave the 
 driver the address and started off mer- 
 rily down the Boulevard Saint Michel, 
 past Notre Dame, the Hotel Dieu, across 
 the Pont d' Arcole, and past the Hotel 
 de Ville. Then we disappeared into a 
 wilderness of narrow streets, where 
 every turn seemed to me to be in the 
 wrong direction, though I gave the 
 driver the credit of knowing more 
 about Paris than I. Suddenly he turned 
 into a side street, narrower, darker and 
 dirtier than the others, and pulled up 
 to the curb A moment's glance assured 
 me that the driver was wrong and that 
 my instinct had been right. After a 
 little arguing, and some explanation of 
 the localitv where our address was situ- 
 
. After what 
 i interminable distance we 
 
 finally landed at the right place 
 
 nnbliishing impudence the driver 
 
 demanded pay lor two courses- a ijnes 
 
 tion which we settled by paying one 
 
 and disappearing into the house. 
 ;bby" to make the most 
 of the situation. Having succeeded in 
 finding onr friend and talking over the 
 old times, we set out for fresh a 
 tnres. The first cabman we encountered 
 demanded donble fare for driving ns 
 home which gave ns a chance to see 
 that he had had too many "ponrboies" 
 already, or at least had had the drinks. 
 The next cab we fonnd we climbed in- 
 to, thus compelling the driver to take 
 the desired address, whvh we 
 
 -d without further adventnv 
 wi h a hearty 'augh over the oddity of 
 three Cornell Phi P>eta Kappa's getting 
 together for snch a lark so far from 
 their own hunting grounds. \Ve were 
 not yet satisfied, for we craved a drink 
 of good American lemonade, so on a 
 venture we went to the nearest <. 
 block away and. by asking for "citron- 
 ade." we were able, to onr snrpr 
 get the real American article which we 
 desired. Everywhere in Paris the cafes 
 and restaurants have their tables and 
 chairs in the open air in the best situa- 
 tion that their location permits. The 
 regularly served indoors, but 
 
 drinks and light refreshments outside. 
 One especially good custom is in vogue 
 at the cafes, that of serving thir 
 
 marked with the price of the arti- 
 cle served Thus a person knows 61 
 
 '".is bill is. When payment is made, 
 one i if t > plates is turned over- 
 payment required in this case was sixty 
 eemtimes (twelve eents^ a glass. 
 
 Thursday we had considered the 
 
 \,-eedingly warm, bnt we were 
 
 rted with t.ke assurance that, three 
 
 or four days previous to onr arrival, the 
 
 temperature had been the highest re 
 
 corded since ISSl. Even the famous 
 
 1SS1 record was broken on Friday, the 
 
 00th. which was the hottest day on re 
 
 cord in Paris, the temperature being :W 
 
degrees centrigrade, equivalent to 102 
 degrees Fahrenheit. Please accept my 
 assurance that hotter weather is unnec- 
 essary. Notwithstanding the heat, we 
 boldly visited the Exposition, morning, 
 afternoon and evening. Having experi- 
 mented with the Parisian cab-driver, we 
 decided next to try the American meth- 
 od of transportation the electric street 
 cars. All the street cars, both electric 
 and horse, and the omnibuses on the 
 south bank of the Seine, are controlled 
 by one company, thus permitting trans- 
 fer from one to the other most readily. 
 All these various lines centre at the 
 Gare Montparnasse, which is also a sta- 
 tion for the inner belt-line railroad, and 
 for several suburban railway lines. 
 These street cars and omnibuses not 
 only cover all the south bank of the 
 river but run direct to the most im 
 portanl points on the north bank. The 
 electric cars are entirely new, having 
 been installed during the last few 
 months, and apparently of American 
 manufacture, for they are fitted with 
 the Thomson-Houston fixtures. The 
 third rail system is the one in use. Each 
 car may carry thirty-eight passengers 
 besides the conductor and motorman, 
 and no more are allowed to enter the 
 car. At the terminals and the principal 
 stations, for the cars only stop at cer- 
 tain regular stations, there are little 
 offices where nmni'mx are distributed. 
 These numeros are cards, numbered 
 from one to one thousand in Inrge fig- 
 ures, and are of different colored card 
 board, according to the routes. The 
 conductor, or an official on duty at the 
 station, (-alls off the numbers in order 
 until ench place in the car is taken, 
 when a sign marked complcf "full" 
 is hung out. Thus one must await his 
 turn but he does so with the assurance 
 of a place in due time without any 
 crowding. At the busy hours, it is usn- 
 ually a difficult thing to enter a car at. 
 an intermediate station, where nnmeros 
 are not issued. Passengers are not 
 allowed to leave the car except at the 
 fixed stations, but the Parisian is learn- 
 ing the American way of taking his own 
 
risks and dismounting when and where 
 he likes. He may also monnt the car at 
 almost any place where it has not its 
 fnll quota of passengers. The horse 
 cars and omnibuses are disgraceful old 
 double-deckers, which carry first class 
 passengers inside and second class on 
 top. The car horses are harnessed very 
 lightly with bridle, collar, and traces, 
 but the omnibus horses have a heavy 
 harness. In each case the horses are 
 greatly overworked. The Parisian has 
 not yet learned to make repairs quickly 
 and without interrupting traffic, other- 
 wise the management is satisfactory. 
 Passengers almost invariably ride sec- 
 ond class, and only go first class when 
 all the second class places are taken. 
 The transfers, or "correspondences" as 
 they are called, are collected at the 
 janction by an official stationed there 
 for that purpose, who therefrom issues 
 the car ticket. From the other passen 
 gers the money fares are collected by 
 the conductor who issues the car ticket, 
 which is kept to show, on demand, as 
 proof that the fare has been paid, and is 
 destroyed by the passenger as he leaves 
 the car. 
 
 Our only other experience, outside 
 the Exposition on Friday, was a visit to 
 the tomb of Napoleon, which we made 
 on our way to the Exposition in the 
 afternoon. The tomb is located in the 
 Hotel des Invalides, directly under the 
 vast dome. The great sarcophagus, the 
 crypt, and all the surroundings are sim 
 pie, bat in the most exquisite taste. There 
 is nothing that offends. Every detail 
 is perfect. Thoughts of human great- 
 ness and of human weakness crowd in 
 upon one. The impressive scene is one 
 that a person cannot soon forget. Per- 
 haps the best description of it was given 
 by the German woman who happened to 
 stand next to me, as she repeated, "Das 
 ist schon, das ist schon, das ist schon." 
 When we entered the dome, I had re- 
 marked to my friend that the chances 
 were nine out of ten of meeting some 
 one we knew there, and so we did. for 
 we found there the Rev. Dr. William 
 Eliot Griffis, of Ithaca, and his family. 
 
1 had reason for some days to remember 
 this visit, fdr it tanght me a lesson 
 which I hope to profit by daring the re- 
 mainder of my travels. The temperature 
 of the chnrches and other buildings of 
 the sort seems seldom to rise abpTe 
 fifty degrees, and the air is damp. Going 
 from the intense heat outside, into the 
 cool, damp bnildings, was too great a 
 change, and the minnte I got outside I 
 felt that I had taken cold a cold which 
 stayed by me during the rest of my visit 
 in Paris. Friday was the only day on 
 which we visited the Exposition in the 
 evening. It was late Friday afternoon 
 that we met onr next Cornell acquain- 
 tance, one of my own classmates who is 
 spending the snmmer in Europe. 
 
 Saturday we spent at the Art bnild- 
 ings of the Exposition. In the evening 
 we sought new adventures with our 
 friends, the cabmen. This time our par- 
 ty was four in number, our two selves 
 and our two young lady friends. We 
 two were in search of our steamer 
 friends, they two wished to find Ameri- 
 can friends. Onr destinations were the 
 same, Grand Hotel Cecil, Rue Canlain- 
 court, To the uninitiated this would 
 seem an easy address to find, but it was 
 not without misgivings that we started 
 out. I alone had a definite idea of the 
 part of Paris the place was in. It was 
 some four miles from our pension, and 
 in the section of Paris known as Mont- 
 marte which, by the way. is not the 
 fashionable quarter of the city. Now, 
 as streets go in Paris, Rue Caulaincourt 
 is a long street, which, in its turns, does 
 not come far short of boxing the com- 
 pass, and we did not know the number, 
 nor could we find it, for the hotel was 
 one started merely to accommodate the 
 patrons of the Tourist Company at the 
 Exposition. The Tourist Company ad- 
 vertised that their hotel was close to the 
 Exposition grounds, and it so happens 
 that there is, not far from the main en- 
 trance to the Exposition, a Hotel Cecil, 
 that is apparently well known, but the 
 Grand Hotel Cecil is neither near the 
 Exposition nor well known, as our ex- 
 perience showed. After several attempts 
 
to get a cab, we at last fonnd one with 
 the proper light, and got the driver 
 headed in the direction of Rne Canlain- 
 conrt, though he insisted that we had 
 given him a "bad address." After about 
 an half honr we had entered the section 
 of Montmarte and there the driver stop- 
 pad for more address. His selection of a 
 stopping-place was happy indeed di- 
 rectly in front of the Moulin Ronge 
 (the Red Mill) a famous resort, not of 
 the better class, while in the open, on 
 the opposite side of the street, a line of 
 Coney Island attractions was in fnll 
 blast. We applied all onr knowledge 
 and all onr French to the driver with 
 little success. Then a policeman was 
 hailed, for surely he would know the 
 locality in which he was stationed, but 
 he was seemingly slightly under the in- 
 fluence of the drink popular in the 
 neighborhood, so I insisted that "cab- 
 bie" should drive on to the point where 
 I knew that Rue Caulaincourt began, 
 and then drive through the street till 
 be got orders to stop. This method in 
 due time proved effectual, and near the 
 farther end of the street, and a half 
 block back from the curb, we discovered 
 the object of pur search. But our trou 
 ble was in vain, for our friends' friends 
 had just started for Rome, and ours for 
 the opera We decided that our trip 
 must not be utterly wasted, so we drove 
 to the Cafe de la Paix, which is oppo- 
 site the Opera, on the Avenue del' Opera 
 and one of the best known in Paris. A 
 shower, which had just begun, added 
 to the Saturday night crowd, made it 
 difficult to find places, but at last we 
 succeeded in getting a table and the 
 requisite number of chairs together on 
 the sidewalk under the awning. We 
 chose the characteristic American 
 things, ico cream and lemonade, which, 
 though with other names, were jnt as 
 good. Here we spent about an hour 
 waiting for the shower to pass, and 
 watching the street scenes, Oar home- 
 ward trip was without incident. 
 
 Sunday found us two very weary 
 boy?, and we faithfully obeyed the 
 scriptural injunction to rest. In the 
 
evening, we went in search of an Eng- 
 lish Church service, and, tncked away 
 in a little side street, about two blocks 
 distant, we discovered St. Lake's Amer- 
 ican chapel, with English service. The 
 chapel was a little wooden building, 
 fitted np quite as crudely as it was pos- 
 sible. An elderly clergyman read the 
 service, and in spite of the striking con- 
 trast between the poor little chapel and 
 the magnificent church not far away, 
 the evening hour of worship was to me 
 an enjoyable one. After this, we walkel 
 across to the north side of the river, to 
 a hotel in the Cite du Retiro, where we 
 found Professor J. W. Jenks, of Cornell, 
 who is studying the trust problem in 
 Europe in behalf of a government com- 
 mission. After a delightful hour we 
 strolled slowly back, stopping on the 
 Pont de la Concorde to watch the 
 crowds and to admire the illumina- 
 tions of the city and of the Exposition 
 buildings and grounds on either bank 
 of the Seine in front of us. Indeed, this 
 was the best evening view of the Ex- 
 position which we found, and the one 
 that most nearly approached the never- 
 to-be-forgotten view of Chicago's Court 
 of Honor with its myriad lights. 
 
 Monday the heat was still intense, and 
 my cold had reached its most annoying 
 phase, yet I managed to spend a goad 
 share of the day at the Exposition, visit 
 ing the national buildings. In the New 
 York State room of the United States 
 building, we found a Cornell graduate 
 from Binghamton on duty. In the even 
 ing we four were to go to see Sarah 
 Bernhardt in L'Aiglon (the Eaglet) 
 This play is a new and unpublishec 1 - 
 one by Edward Rostand, the author oi 
 Cyrano de Bergerac. Sarah plays the 
 part of Napoleon II, who is the Eaglet 
 and the central figure in the play. The 
 little son of Napoleon and Maria Louise, 
 who was created at his birth, "King of 
 Rome," was deprived of his father and 
 forsaken by his mother when but four 
 years old. The rest of his life was spent 
 under the guardianship of his grand- 
 father, Francis I , Emperor of Austria, 
 by whom be was created Duke of Reich- 
 
stadt. The play covers the years when 
 the boy was becoming the man, and 
 cniminates with the death of the yonng 
 prince in his twenty-first year in 1832. 
 The play has taken well and feems to 
 havo been a success for both the dramat- 
 ist and the actress. As Inck wonld have 
 it, my cold was in the stage where any 
 exertion was irksome, and one of onr 
 yonng lady friends was even more un- 
 fortunate than I from a similar canse,po 
 that one half of the party went to the 
 hospital while the other half went to the 
 theatre and had experiences in getting 
 "rush seats," and in other ways, of 
 which I am not qualified to speak. 
 
 Tuesday morning ray cold was still 
 on top, but by the time I had eaten my 
 dejeuner I felt that I was once more 
 master of the situation, and started out 
 for the Exposition. In the evening, we 
 two again visited the Grand Hotel Cecil 
 The trip was without incident, and we 
 succeeded in finding our friends and 
 passed a delightful evening with them. 
 Oar homeward trip was made behind 
 the fastest cab horse it was our good for- 
 tune to find in Paris. Cabbie thought 
 we were strangers and might be worked 
 successfully, but he had to put up with 
 the regular fare, to his intense and 
 profane disgust. Wednesday morning 
 oar Ithaca friends started for Switzer- 
 land for a two months' visit, and we 
 went to the Gare de Lyoti (Lyons Sta- 
 tion) to wish them l>on r<>j/>i</<>. To go 
 upon the platform to see a friend off, or 
 .to meet a friend, requires a ticket, val- 
 ued at ten centimes (two cents). Thence 
 we took a boat on the Seine to visit the 
 Exposition annex at Vincennes. Here 
 we saw the fortifications of the city, 
 which consist of a moat and earthworks, 
 backed by a wall of brick. Running 
 just inside this line of fortifications, all 
 the way around the city, is a great boul- 
 evard, the sections of which are all 
 named in honor of the marshals of -Na- 
 poleon. The belt-line railroad also runs 
 just inside the fortifications. Wednes 
 day afternoon found us back at the 
 main part of the Exposition. The even 
 ing was spent in studying guide books 
 
and timetables. Thursday was to be 
 onr last day at the Exposition, and was, 
 perforce, a fnll one, for in it we wanted 
 to visit, ai least hastily, all the places 
 which we had not yet seen. Onr de- 
 jeuner we took at a Dnval restaurant on 
 the grounds, and at seven in the even- 
 ing we called our visit to the Exposition 
 finished, and went to onr pension for 
 our dinner and our packing. This lat- 
 ter I found a puzzling job. My plans 
 called for travel until the close of the 
 Exposition Travelling with a trunk is 
 a nuisance in America. In Europe it is 
 not only that, but also an expensive lux- 
 ury. So I had to condense into rny 
 dress suit case and hand satchel every- 
 thing I should want until the middle of 
 November, and leave the rest in my 
 trunk in Paris. Friday morning we 
 bade monsieur and madame an re coir, 
 and, at 9:15, we left Paris from the 
 Gare du Nord (Northern Station) on the 
 Chemin de fer de TEst (Eastern Rail- 
 road) for Soissons, were beginneth an- 
 other tale. 
 
 Thus far 1 have said little about the 
 Exposition, and of our impressions of it 
 and of Paris To each of these points I 
 will come in turn in my next letter. 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 GEORGE M. DUTCH KK 
 
OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 1900. 
 
 Travels in Kurope by fie* r;e M. Duteher. 
 
 MUNICH, September 22, 1900. 
 MY DEAR i-ui: 
 
 It was with feelings of expectation 
 not un mixed with dread that we two 
 started oat from Paris on the morning 
 of the 27th of Jnly for our first venture 
 into parts where English is practically 
 an unknown quantity and where every- 
 thing wonld be strange and unfamiliar 
 to us Our expections were fully real- 
 ized, but, fortunately, our dread was 
 not, for everything went nicely and we 
 were able to keep a cheerful count e 
 nance all the time. 
 
 We left Paris at a quarter past nine 
 on the Eastern railroad. In buying our 
 tickets I learned two lessons. When 
 arriving at a station it is wise to note 
 just where the ticket office is, and where 
 your train will leave, so that you may 
 have no trouble, if when you leave you 
 you should happen to be pressed for 
 time. That reminds me that it is also 
 vise to compare your watch with the 
 railroad time for you will find that the 
 local time, even that indicated by the 
 large clocks in the towers of churches 
 and other buildings, is not to be de- 
 pended upon and may cause you trouble. 
 The second leseon was that one must be 
 far more careful to count his change be- 
 fore leaving the window than he would 
 in America, for it is a favorite failing of 
 the good people over here to make mis- 
 takes in change that are not in your 
 favor, and especially so if you are in a 
 hurry. As I learned the lesson for a few 
 cents I can afford to pass it on. In order 
 to give us the desired amount of time 
 in Soissons we were obliged to travel sec- 
 ond class to get a train convenient for 
 us. The journey of sixty-five miles was 
 a delightful one. The day was bright 
 and clear and the rolling, almost level 
 country appeared to the best advantage, 
 with the harvesters just beginning their 
 
work. One may ride for miles without 
 seeing a fence. The only division he 
 tween the fields is a little ditch for 
 drainage and sometimes there is not 
 even that. A reaping machine was a 
 rare sight, and not even the cradle was 
 in common use, bnt either a scythe or a 
 sickle. The women worked along with 
 the men, and often alone. As nearly as I 
 could judge, the chief crop was wheat. Of 
 Indian corn there was none. We reached 
 Soissons at 10:38, which is far better 
 time than the average trains overheie 
 make, for we were on a through express. 
 Having left our luggage in the parcel 
 room, we started out to "do" our first 
 French provincial town, which will al 
 ways be remembered by us as the place 
 where we learned how. 
 
 Soissons is a city of over'twelve thous- 
 and inhabitants, but like all the Euro- 
 pean places that I have seen it is very 
 compact, for it covers about as much 
 ground as the part of Owego bounded 
 by the river and the Erie and Lacka- 
 awanna tracks. The town and its en- 
 virons have been the scene of sieges and 
 battles from Caesar's gallic wars to the 
 Franco Prussian war, the most famous 
 occasion being the victory of Clovis over 
 the Romans in 486. It was under the 
 successors of Clovis that Soissons saw 
 its palmiest days. The town is situated 
 on the left bank of the little river Aisne, 
 which has been converted into a canal. 
 On the right bank are the two suburbs 
 of St. Vaast and St. Medard. The rail- 
 railroad station is about a half-mile 
 from the town and is approached by a 
 beautiful wide street, lined with rows 
 of trees. 
 
 Just as we reached the town a little 
 sunshower drove us onto a hotel porch 
 for refuge for a few moments. The first 
 object of interest was near by, and we 
 soon ventured out in search of it. The 
 Abbey of Saint Jean-des-Vignes, in 
 which Thomas Becket spent nine years, 
 is now an utter ruin. A bit of the clois- 
 ters remain and the front of the church 
 with a fine portal and handsome towers 
 is still well preserved. This was our 
 first view and we inspected it thorough- 
 
ly from the bottom to the top, which 
 we reached by means of the ancient 
 stone steps, The parts of the chnrch 
 which remain are three or four hundred 
 years old. As I have said we were be- 
 ginners, and like all beginners were 
 slow, so by the time we had finished the 
 abbey we were ready to think abont 
 something to eat. We were not yet 
 worldly wise enough to go to a restau- 
 rant for our dejenner, so we went to the 
 Hotel of the Cross of Gold, the regular 
 table d'hote. It was a modest hotel and 
 we congratulated ourselves that we 
 were able to fare well for a considerable 
 less than we had at Cherbourg. Of 
 course the name of the house turned our 
 thoughts toMr. Bryan and by certain pro- 
 cesses to things American. One article 
 on the menu deserves mention Haricot 
 beans, which are not unlike our string 
 beans, or butter beans, are grown 
 in large quantities in the neighborhood 
 of Soiesons and are a favorite dish not 
 only there but in Paris and the neigh- 
 boring towns. 
 
 In the afternoon we had a large job 
 on our hands, our first visit to a cathe- 
 dral, and we took it quite seriously. The 
 building was erected about six hundred 
 years ago and is a neat, modest struc- 
 ture with a pretty interior. The front 
 has three portals, a splendid rose-win- 
 dow and a tower. In the interior there 
 was the stained glass, some tapestries 
 and paintings and some old tombs to in- 
 terest us. The building is not seated 
 with benches but with chairs which are 
 moved about at will. Besides the ruined 
 abbey and the cathedral there is little 
 else in the place to see, and we spent the 
 remainder of our time walking about 
 and looking at the few other old build- 
 ings and at the houses, shops and pep 
 pie. Thus we finished our first town in 
 seven hours, now we would find half 
 that time an abundance, for we have 
 learned how. One interesting thing I 
 noticed was that the stone in general 
 use as a building material is very soft, 
 and is cut into blocks of the desired size 
 and shapes with a cross-cut saw. We 
 left Soissons at 5:50, going third class 
 

on a slow train. A journey of thirty-five 
 miles up the valley of the Aisne and of 
 its tributary the Vesle brought ns to 
 Reims at half-nast seven. 
 
 Reims (it spells itself without an h) 
 and pronounces itself "rans") is a city 
 of a little more that 100,000 inhabitants 
 and is situated on the right bank of the 
 little stream called Vesle Like Soissons 
 Reims heard of Caesar's gallic wars and 
 dates its prosperity from the years that 
 marked the end of Roman rule in 
 France. It was here on Christmas day 
 496 that Clovis was baptised by St. 
 Remigius the bishop of Reims. Much 
 of the interest that attaches to the place 
 is due to the fact that for six hundred 
 years the kings of France, with a single 
 exception, were crowned in this city, 
 Reims also plays a prominent part in 
 the story of "Joan of Arc." To Reims 
 she escorted Charles the seventh 
 for his coronation, and Joan's parents 
 were present to witness their daughter's 
 triumph and were entertained at the ex- 
 pense of the city in a little inn near the 
 cathedral, an event commemorated by a 
 tablet on the wall of the hotel which oc- 
 cupies the site of the old inn. In mem- 
 ory of Joan herself, there stands in the 
 square in front of the Cathedral an 
 equestrian statue. Reims has been and 
 still is one of the strongholds of the 
 j catholic church in France, and here 
 I they established their English seminary 
 which was the headquarters of the Cath- 
 olic enemies of Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 We stopped at the Hotel de 1'Europe, 
 an oH, unpretending place, chiefly pat- 
 ronized by the commercial travellers 
 It amused us not a little to find the 
 p'a:e entirely clo ed up and everybody 
 down to the porter and the bellboy gone 
 to bed by eleven o'clock. This first night 
 in a European hotel was without special 
 interest to myjfriend, but to me it was 
 qnite too interesting? The bedstead was 
 a heavy wooden one, very broad in pro- 
 portion to its length, and so high that 
 one could not sit on it to unlace his shoes, 
 but was even forced to meditate on the 
 necessity of calling for a ladder as a use- 
 ful aid in crawling in. The head of the 
 bed was raised to an extraordinary 
 
height by means of a bolster and two 
 pillows a height which I promptly di- 
 minished, by two thirds. The covering 
 consisted of a sheet, a flannel blanket 
 and another affair consisting of a case 
 filled with soft stuff, perhaps feath- 
 ers, aronml which was laced an on tar 
 case. The whole affair is nnliko either a 
 pillow, a bedtick or a comfortable, and 
 yet it has points of resemblance to each. 
 This I also removed, being forewarned 
 that it was inhabited. With even this 
 precaution I did not escape molestation 
 from the permanent population which I 
 concluded was large. Their family 
 name is flea, but you can't escape from 
 them in Europe. You see them every- 
 where and what is worse you feel them 
 all too frequently. Fleas are almost as 
 convenient a subject of conversation as 
 the weather with tourists. There, so 
 mnch was necessary. I shall try not to 
 allnde to the subject again, as but once 
 since have I found them obnoxiously 
 familiar. The description of the bed it- 
 self will apply with very slight amend- 
 ment to all that I have since found. My 
 woes, however, were not ended. The 
 religious fervor of the city is manifested 
 by the number of its bells and the vigor 
 with which they are rung, especially at 
 fl*x in the morning, greatly to the an 
 noyance of the more intelligent who de- 
 sire to slumber nnti^ight. 
 
 [CONTINUED NEXT WEEK ] 
 
 O IV EGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 1900. 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Dutcher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting Letter. 
 
 [Continued ] 
 
 Saturday morning we took the short- 
 est route to the cathedral, which we 
 had already searched out the evening 
 before. The cathedral, which is dedicat- 
 fld to the Virein-Marv. dates from the 
 

beginning of the thirteenth century and 
 was considerably more than a century 
 in building. It suffered from a fire at 
 the end of the fifteenth century which 
 destroyed seven of the eight spires, none 
 of which have been replaced, though 
 one of the towers was neatly finished 
 off without a spire, long ago, and the 
 other one is only now being repaired to 
 correspond. The west facade, or front of 
 the cathedral, is spoken of by one au- 
 thority on architecture as "perhaps the 
 most beautiful structure produced in 
 the middle ages." It consists of three 
 magnificent doorways adorned with 
 more than five hundred statues, above 
 each portal a large window, the beauti- 
 ful rose- window in the centre being for- 
 ty feet in diameter; on each corner 
 rises a massive square tower over 250 
 feet in height. Besides the statues 
 adorning the portals there is a large 
 number on the upper portions of the 
 facade. Biblical scenes and characters, 
 saints and kings of France, are repre- 
 sented by these numerous statues. On 
 the north side of the building there is 
 also a handsomely decorated portal. 
 Compared with the splendid exterior 
 the interior is plain, besides being damp 
 and dreary; though it contains much of 
 interest in the way of statues, pictures, 
 tapestries and stained glass, which we 
 spent some time in examining. Our wie- 
 dcm and laziness had not yet reached 
 that state where we disdained a visit to 
 the loftier portions of the building, so 
 we bought our tickets and began our 
 upward way. I might add that every 
 church tower over here may be ascend- 
 ed if you will pay for it. In all the more 
 important churches tickets are sold and 
 the receipts form a portion of the reve- 
 nues of the church: in others the sexton 
 appropriates such fees as yon are willing 
 to give. The amount demanded usually 
 amounts to about ten cents. Part way 
 up the tower, a loud-voiced, voluble 
 youth attached himself to us and took us 
 out into the galleries that lead around 
 the roof, where he expatiated upon the 
 cathedral and tl > landscape while" we 
 listened appreciatively and unintelli- 
 gently. Then we completed the ascent 
 

of the tower, stopping on the way to 
 look at the great bells, which are showed 
 with pride because they escaped daring 
 I the French revolution, when all bells 
 were ordered to be melted down and 
 aaed as gun metal. When we descend- 
 ed we were shown over the vaulting of 
 the chnrch and had the novel experience 
 of telephoning by stone. My friend and 
 I stood at distant points and by talking 
 to the stone and putting onr ears to it 
 to hear, we were enabled to carry on a 
 conversation as if by telephone. Oar 
 view of the wost facade, as I have al- 
 ready implied, was somewhat spoiled 
 becaase one of the side portals and the 
 tower above it were completely covered 
 with scaffolding for the repairs and 
 restorations which were in progress and 
 the finishing of the sainmit to corre- 
 spond with the other. Almost every 
 Catholic charch which we have visited 
 has near the entrance a collection box, 
 marked, "For the restoration of the 
 charch" ,and freqaently one finds the 
 restoration in progress, as we did at 
 Soissons and Reims. Adjoining the 
 cathedral is the archbishop's palace 
 which contains some interesting apart- 
 ments ased by the kings at their coro- 
 nations. 
 
 On oar way from the cathedral to 
 oar hotel we passed throagh the market 
 place. It is a never ceasing object of 
 interest for me to watch those market 
 places. The market women come in 
 with their baskets or little cart filled 
 with frait, vegetables, flowers and oth- 
 er things which they display for sale in 
 the market place. The hoase wives and 
 hoase maids come with their little hand- 
 baskets and select what they desire. 
 The market place, is very apt to be in 
 the centre of the town, so that there is 
 the regnlar stream of basiness to add to 
 the carious medley and conf asion. Here 
 one can see to excellent advantage one 
 side of the life, character and castoms 
 of the people. .However we coald not 
 linger this time, for it was time for oar 
 dejeuner and we were folly aware of it. 
 Aa in Paris, the petit dejeuner, which is 
 served as soon as yoa get ap in the 
 mornine.consists of coffee, tea or choco- 
 
late and rolls. The dejeuner, served 
 abont noon, and the dinner, served at 
 abont half-past seven, are table d'hote, 
 and the landlord expects yon to be pre- 
 sent. This makes traveling in the pro- 
 vinces of France rather expensive, as 
 the price for each meal rnns from two 
 francs and a half (50 cents) to five francs 
 (one dollar). Good rooms cost from two 
 to three francs, while the best may be 
 had for fonr or five francs. The petit 
 dejeurner usually costs one franc. Ta- 
 ble d'hote is handy for those who can't 
 read the menu, and is enjoyable for 
 those who are trying to live a long and 
 idle life, bat for the nervous, active 
 American it is generally a sore trial to 
 the patience, especially if he is thinking 
 of taking a train. Furthermore it is a 
 wasteful and expensive thing both for 
 the host and the guest, as it demands 
 the serving of a great variety of things 
 to each of which the guest feels bound 
 to help himself liberally in order to get 
 his money's worth, while for the sake of 
 his digestion he feels bound to leave a 
 good share of it on the plate untouched. 
 The cuisine and service are quite good, 
 and the greatest objection the foreigner 
 finds is to the large proportion of meat 
 and the small proportion of vegetables, 
 puddings, cakes and similar things of 
 the milder sort. Wine is regularly 
 served with the meals and is usually 
 mixed with water when drank. I 
 thrived on Vichy Etat which, in warm 
 weather, becomes an expensive luxury 
 unless one can persuade himself to go 
 thirsty. 
 
 In the afternoon we started out to do 
 the remaining sights of the town which 
 are fairly numerous but without very 
 great interest except in the case of the 
 church of St. Remi or Remigius In the 
 outskirts of the city to the south. As it 
 now stands the church represents the 
 work of several different centuries with 
 their respective styles of architecture, 
 the oldest parts dating from the eleventh 
 century. Everything about the church 
 is old and interesting even the atmos- 
 phere has a distinct flavor of antiquity. 
 The chief thing to attract the visitor is 
 the tomb of St. Remi, although it has 
 
been restored several times, the present 
 tomb having been costructed in 1847. The 
 chnreh has become the parish church of 
 the pco-est part of the city, and a visit 
 to it takes one through a quarter of the 
 town that savors of the last century if 
 not of an earlier one. Reims possesses 
 one excellent monument of the Roman 
 period a triumphal arch known as the 
 "Gate of Mars." Fifteen hundred years 
 have worked far less destruction than 
 one would have supposed, for the arch 
 as a whole is well preserved and some 
 of the ornamental details are still in ex- 
 cellent condition. This relic of the an 
 cient time stands at one end of the pret- 
 ty public park and promenade, in the 
 centre of which is a statue of Colbert, 
 the famous minister of Louis XIV., who 
 was a native of Reims. Another native 
 of the city is commemorated by a statue 
 in a neighboring street. He is Drouet 
 d' Erlon, one of Napoleon's generals, 
 who, through no fault of his own, 
 played a somehat ludicrous part in the 
 battle of Waterloo. There are several 
 large public buildings, the most import- 
 ant of which is the town hall erected in 
 the seventeenth century, which con- 
 tains, besides the offices of the city offi- 
 cials, the city museum and library. I 
 visited the library with much interest, 
 I both because it was my first sight of a 
 large library in Europe and because of 
 the interesting and curious old books 
 and manuscripts. 
 
 Saturday evening 1 spent in the hotel 
 doing some writing while my friend 
 strolled out and wondered why it was 
 so hot. I was greatly amused by a trav- 
 elling man who came in late to dinner 
 and sat at one end of the dining room 
 which had no other occupants except 
 the proprietor and his family who were 
 at the other end of the room. The lat- 
 ter for about an hour were entertained 
 by the conversation of the commercial 
 traveller who discoursed continuously 
 in a loud, thick, almost unintelligible 
 voice the sonorous quality of which 
 will always form a part of my memories 
 of Reims. 
 
 Sunday morning the music of the I 
 bells far outdid that of the previous 
 
; morning so that even the most inveter- 
 ate sleeper might not have the excuse 
 that he did not wake np in time to go 
 to church. We went at 10 o'clock to ser- 
 vice in the cathedral where we heard a 
 brilliant young priest,in a sermon, defend 
 the Catholic church against the charge 
 that it was still a mediaeval institution 
 and not up to the times. The pulpit, as 
 is almost invariably the case over here, 
 is a sort of canopy built against one of 
 the pillars near the center of the church, 
 and high above the heads of the congre- 
 gregation. A flight of steps leads to the 
 pulpit, and frequently both the pulpit 
 and the staircase are beautiful speci- 
 mens of the wood carver's art. One 
 curious custom which I have failed to 
 notice elsewhere, was that one of the 
 attaches of the cathedral made a tour 
 of the congregation and collected five 
 centime*) (one cent) from each person 
 for his chair. Then the regular collec- 
 tion was taken by dignified brethren in 
 the proper fashion. Following them 
 went altar boys carrying tin cans with 
 
 a slot in the top. These cans they shook 
 in a peculiar manner so as to jingle the 
 coins IE side, before every person, as 
 much as to say, "help along the jingle." 
 This was the method of talking the be- 
 nevolent collection. At every church I 
 have visited in France, or in places 
 where French influences prevail, I 
 have found about the doorway beggars, 
 some of them apparently able to earn a 
 living, others afflicted or helpless 
 from one reason or another, and some 
 of them quite repulsive in their 
 appearance. Against all such I have 
 hardened my heart, for it seems that, 
 between church and state, all such 
 cases which are really deserving, ought 
 to be properly cared for. If one begins 
 giving alms, there is no end to it. 
 
 Sunday afternoon we started out to 
 find an English church service. The 
 place where such services were an- 
 nounced to be held we found closed, so 
 we walked abont for a time and then 
 went to another place at the hour an- 
 nounced. This time we found the chapel 
 open and service in progress, but to 
 

 
oar amazement we discovered they were 
 sieging the closing hymn. This little 
 chapel in which English Congregational 
 services are held is maintained by an 
 English firm, which owns a large plant 
 at Reims, for combing and washing 
 wools, for the little colony of English 
 workmen whom- they employ. Sunday 
 evening I was again treated to a per- 
 formance by the man with the large 
 voice. After he had subsided I conclud- 
 ed it was time to go to bed. 
 
 [CONTINUED NEXT WEEK.] 
 
 OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, DECEMBER 6, 1900. 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Dutclier Writes Another Inter- 
 esting: Letter. 
 
 [Continued ] 
 
 Monday was a busy day for us. We 
 left Reims at a quarter past ten, and, 
 after a ride of two hours, reached Sedan, 
 abont 65 miles distant. The trip did 
 not involve any different scenery from 
 that already passed on our way from 
 Paris. The road crosses the divide be 
 tween the Vesle and the Aisne, and near 
 Rethel the Aisne itself is crossed 
 and then the road enters the wooded, 
 somewhat hilly region of the Ardennes 
 and crosses another divide to the valley 
 of the Meuse and follows the river for 
 a few miles. Jost before reaching Se- 
 dan we saw our first European rain. 
 After a not very sumptuous repast at 
 the Golden Lion, we started out in spite 
 of the frowns of the weather, for 
 Bazeilles, a little hamlet three miles 
 np the river, where a bridge and a 
 rise of ground were the scene of the 
 fiercest part of the famous battle of 
 September, 1870. The little town was 
 completely destroyed with the excep- 
 tion of a small inn on the outskirts 
 which was the last point held by the 
 French. This building is now known 
 as the Last Cartridge. In the cemetery 
 

near by is a, large tomb containing the I 
 hones of tvro thousand of the "unknown 
 dead." All that one can do by a visit 
 to the battle tield is to get a notion of 
 the lay of the land and the successive 
 positions held by the two armies. The 
 battle of September, 1870, was not the 
 greatest of the war but it has become 
 the bpst known because a series of mis- 
 takes on the part of the French forced 
 Einporer Napoleon III to surrender 
 himself and an army of nearly 90,000 
 men on the day following. The surren- 
 der took place at the Chateau de Belle- 
 vue about two miles below Sedan From 
 B^zeilles we returned to Sedan by elec- 
 tric car. The city contains few build 
 ings that date back of 1870, the fortifi 
 tions have been removed, and the place 
 i-i nicely laid out and has many fine | 
 modern housea. The only relic of the 
 ancient times is the ruins of the old cas- 
 tle. Of course the city has a monument 
 to its favorite son, who was Marshal 
 Turenne. Sedan also has a college. The 
 population is about 20.000 and they mahe 
 as little stir about it as possible. 
 
 Sedan we left at half past four to go 
 to Dinant. As we two were alone in the 
 compartment we piled our luggage on 
 the seat for there was no rack, as is 
 customary, to place it in. This led to 
 interesting developments. At Charle- 
 vllle others entered the compartment 
 and finally a party of men who raised 
 the number to the lawful ten. I offered 
 to remove the luggage to accommodate 
 them, but one of them piled on some of 
 his and said that it was all right as it 
 was The train had hardly got in mo- 
 tion when one of the party, a young 
 fellow of twenty-five or thirty, who gat 
 opposite the luggage began to look at it 
 in an annoyed manner and finally be- 
 gan to examine the tags. Though there 
 was nothing to help him to form the 
 opinion, he announced to the rest of the 
 party that we were English. My friend 
 did not understand any of the proceed- 
 ings and occupied himself with the 
 (scenery. I apparently did the same but 
 kept a weather eye and ear out for de- 
 velopments which our slightly intoxi- 
 cated fellow-traveller thought should 
 

follow rapidly. Divisions and army 
 corps could not be landed in England 
 any too soon to Fuit him. This precipi- 
 tated a vigorous if not altogether learn- 
 ed discussion of the relations between 
 France and England. I chuckled in- 
 wardly when one quiet old fellow ven- 
 tured to remark that once upon a time 
 a battle of Trafalgar somewhat inter 
 I fered with landing French army corps 
 I in England. This turned the tide and, 
 i after prolonged arguments by the con- 
 servative members of the party, the 
 hot-headed youth decided to wait till 
 another day. In this car, as is frequent- 
 ly the case, the partition between the 
 apartments only extends a little higher 
 than the back of the seat, and at one of 
 the stations one of two French soldiers 
 in the next compartment who had been 
 listening to the discussion, surprised 
 me by leaning over and opening conver- 
 sation with me in English. He told me 
 that he had worked several years in 
 London and wished he was back there. 
 Later when we changed cars at Givet, 
 our troublesome friend came around to 
 chat with us in a pleasant manner and 
 chose the same compartment From Gi- 
 vet on the French side of the line to 
 Hastiere on the Belgian side, a distance 
 of seven miles, a train of the huckle- 
 berry sort runs, and to this day I re 
 member it as the worst experience in 
 European travel. At a little station just 
 after crossing the line, the Belgian cus- 
 toms officials came in and poked their 
 hands into our baggage and asked some 
 unintellgent questions, to all of which 
 I gave a prompt and decided negative. 
 The procedure lasted less than a minute 
 and caused us no trouble, so we voted 
 the Belgian customs officials a success. 
 For the ten miles from Hastiere to 
 Dinant we bad a somewhat better speci- 
 men of a Belgian train. The cars are the 
 same size as the French, though like 
 ours with a passage from end to end 
 and with entrance at the end instead of 
 the side, but they are still divided into 
 compartments in an awkward fashion. 
 Another American feature is that the 
 conductor goes through the train and 
 collects the tickets. The scenery all 
 
along the Meuse, which the railroad fol- 
 lows closely from Sedan to Dinant, is 
 beautiful and one can enjoy a good deal 
 or it in spite ef the frequent tnnnels. It 
 was 9 o'clock when we reached Dinant, 
 a town of abont 8,000 inhabitants on the 
 right bank of the Mense, crowded in 
 between the river and the rocks. The 
 station is at St. Medand on the left 
 bank. Being the only strangers to alight 
 from the train we were considered fair 
 prey by all the hotel porters, among 
 whom the competition seemed quite 
 fierce. We picked ont the cheapest 
 place and put onr baggage in charge of 
 the porter. Onr choice was the Family 
 lloiel, which we fonnd nicely located 
 and with a good room, though the 
 board was not all that it might have 
 been. We were too late for dinner and 
 had to pnt np with a cold Innch, after 
 which we strolled ont, in onr usual 
 fashion, to see the town by lamp light. 
 The strains of music led nB to the pnblic 
 square where we found the popnlace 
 gathered listening to a very good or- 
 chestra which was entertaining them 
 with classical mnsic. Th neighboring 
 restaurants had placed chairs and tables 
 ia the square and were dispensing wine 
 and beer to the thirsty lovers of mnsic. 
 The town is something of a summer re- 
 sort, and these orchestral concerts and 
 other attractions are provided regularly 
 throughout the season for the delecta- 
 tion of the sojourners. 
 
 Tuesday morning we set out to see 
 whether the daylight would bear out 
 the pleasant impression of the town 
 which we had formed the previous even- 
 ing. Onr first undertaking was to climb 
 to the old citadel, which is directly 
 above the town, on the top of a high 
 cliff. It is reached by flights of steps 
 from the public square or as it tnrned 
 out to be in the morning the market 
 place. The view is very pretty though 
 not very extended. The old citadel is 
 now private property and is open to vis- 
 itors for a fee of fifty centimes (10 cents) 
 A family lives in some of the rooms and 
 acts as guides to the visitors. Some of 
 the rooms contain a collection of old ar- 
 mor and weapons. Before the day of 
 
long range gnus the citadel mnst have 
 been a position of great military im- 
 portance, for it easily commanded the 
 town and the river, and was open to 
 attack on only one side. From the cita- 
 del we walked along the top of the cliffs 
 for some distance and then descended 
 throngh the garden of the casino a 
 place of the Monte Carlo sort. Thence 
 we walked up along the banks of the 
 river to Anseremme, passing the tower- 
 ing rock known as the Roche a Bayard, 
 from an ancient legend. At Anseremme 
 the little river Lesse flows into the 
 Meuse and a railroad bridge spans the 
 Mense. As is frequently the case here, 
 there is a foot way across the railroad 
 bridge and so we crossed to the left bank 
 and returned to Dinant in time for din- 
 ner. The only building in Dinant of in- 
 
 . terest to tourists is the old church situ- 
 ated, in the market place, directly un- 
 der the citadel. It has a pretty interior 
 and a peculiar steeple. The typical local 
 product is the Dinant cake, which puz- 
 zles the eye to tell whether it is em- 
 
 1 bossed leather or gingerbread. They 
 are baked in all sorts of shapes and 
 stamped with patterns. 
 
 After a hurried dinner we took the 
 little steamer for Namur. At dinner 
 there were several English people and, 
 curiously enough, the speakers of Eng- 
 lish outnumbered those to whom French 
 was the mother tongue. One of these 
 Englishmen was also on the boat and I 
 carried on a long conversation with 
 him in the course of which I startled 
 him by assuring him that Americans 
 
 I enjoyed taking ice cream and hot coffee 
 i together, and that the indulgence did 
 not prove fatal. There is sufficient fall 
 in the twenty miles between Dinant and 
 Namur to require four lock*, the pass- 
 ing of which was a novel experience for 
 me. The scenery is splendid and can be 
 on joyed to the utmost, from the steam- 
 er. We reached Namur at half-past four 
 and took the steam tram cars to the 
 railroad station where we left our lu- 
 eaee and then started out on the cir- 
 cnit of the town. The city of 30.000 in- 
 habitants is situated on the left bank of 
 t,be Sambre and of the Meuse at their 
 

junction. With the exception of the 
 ring of boulevards which surrounds the 
 city there is no rhyme nor reason in the 
 length or direction or width of the 
 streets. The city stands on ground con- 
 siderably above the two rivers, and the 
 hill that occupies the other and smaller 
 angle formed by the junction of the 
 streams is crowned by the citadel. 
 The situation of the place gives it a 
 strategical importance which has fre- 
 quently brought it into history. Sieges 
 do not produce old buildings eo that 
 there is little to interest the sight-seer. 
 The most important building is the 
 cathedral which dates from the middle 
 of the last century. The structure is 
 surmounted by a dome. The interior is 
 beautiful and possesses some handsome 
 decorations. An older edifice is the 
 church of St Loup, which belongs to the 
 first half of the seventeen century. A 
 hole in the ceiling remains as a mentnen- 
 to of tho siege of the city in 1692 by 
 Louis XIV. None of the churches and 
 public buildings possess any special in- 
 terest. 
 
 There are two or three statues, one to 
 King Leopold the First While walking 
 down the promenade along the Sambre 
 I became aware that I was feeling as 
 though I were in Owego. The cause of 
 the sensation I discovered in the sound 
 of one of the church bells which was 
 of exactly the same tone as that of the 
 Owego Methodist church. After dinner 
 at a hotel near the station we left at 8 
 o'clock for Liege. The distance i&a lit- 
 tle more than thirty five miles and took 
 us over an hour and a half. The scenery 
 is beautiful for the whole distance as 
 the railroad still follows the Meuse 
 closely. Coal mines, marble quarries 
 and factories are passed in uninterrupt- 
 ed succession. Throughout this region 
 the mc^t familiar sight is that of the 
 numerous high chimneys of the facto 
 rieti. As long as the light permitted we 
 enjoyed the scenery. Then we were 
 treated to bits of the Inferno. The flames 
 burstling from the furnaces which we 
 were constantly passing, especially as 
 we n eared Lifge, lighted np the land- 
 scape in a most lurid fashion. 
 
 [CONTINUED NEXT WEEK ] 
 
OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, DECEMBER 13, 1900. 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Dutcher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting Letter. 
 
 [Continued ] 
 
 In French and English, Liege: in 
 Flemish, Lnip; in German, Lnttich are 
 the three ways of writing the name of 
 this city. The older part of the city 
 stretches along the left bank, of the 
 Mense at the foot of the hills, and in 
 piaces extends up the slopes. The new- 
 er part is on the right bank partly on 
 the peninsula formed by the janc- 
 tion of the little river Oarthe with the 
 Mease, and partly on the right bank 
 of the Orthe. The bnsy manufacturing 
 center numbers over 160,000 inhabitants. 
 For centuries the Prince Bishop of 
 Liege was practically the independent 
 ruler of the city and the snrronnding 
 district. The French Revolution brought 
 his regime to an end, and the course of 
 events during the succeeding forty years 
 saw the former principality incorporat- 
 ed in the kingdom of the Belgians 
 
 On our arrival we took the electric 
 cars to the Hotel Douven which we had 
 picked out as most likely to suit our 
 means. We found a pleasant room and a 
 fair table. Then we started out to look 
 over the town a little, and to see if we 
 conld discover some lemonade. To our 
 delight we found a restaurant where we 
 were furnished with the lemons, sugar 
 and water, and thus had the best and 
 cheapest lemonade that we had found. 
 In the quarter in which our wanderings 
 led us there were several brilliantly 
 lighted, handsomely furnished restau- 
 rants and cafes. At least the finest of 
 these we found were gambling places. 
 Nearly all of Wednesday we spent in 
 seeing the sights of Liege, which in- 
 clude the Palais de Justice, the univer- 
 sitv, and several churches. The ancient 
 
cathedral fell a victim to the wrath of 
 the soldiers of the French Revolution, 
 and was completely removed a few 
 years later. The Episcopal palace 
 which adjoined it has been converted 
 into the Palais de Justice or Court 
 House. This splendid building was 
 erected early in the sixteenth century, 
 but has been twice restored. The most 
 interesting parts of the building are the 
 two interior courts which are surround- 
 ed with arcades. Not far away is the 
 Theatre, a fine building, in front of 
 which stands a monument to Gretey. 
 the composer, who was one of the town's 
 favorite sons. The university is located 
 chiofly in a large,plain, well-built struc 
 tnre erected during the past decade 
 The institution was founded in 1817 
 and is now under state control, and is 
 most important for its scientific and 
 technical departments. 
 
 The former abbey church of St. Paul 
 has been, since the beginning of the 
 century, the cathedral church. A part 
 of the church dates from the thir- 
 teenth century though most of it be- 
 longs to a later period, a portion to the 
 present century. The interior decora- 
 tions belongs almost entirely to the 
 nineteenth century, though most of it 
 belongs to a later period, a portion to 
 the present century. The interior deco- 
 rations belong almost entirely to the 
 nineteenth century. The pulpit of 
 carved wood, adorned with several mar 
 ble statues, is very fine. Several of the 
 other churches, like St. Paul's, "were 
 founded in the latter half of the tenth 
 century but the present buildings in no 
 case ante-date the twelfth century. 
 Each of them is interesting but an enu- 
 meration of them and their special 
 points is useless. The festival of Cor- 
 pus Christi was first celebrated in the 
 Church of St. Martin in the thirteenth 
 century an event commemorated by a 
 series of marble medallions in one of the 
 side chapels. The church of St. Denis con- 
 tains a beautifully carved altar of wood 
 in a side chapel. The only other thing 
 of special interest is an equestrian stat- 
 ue of Charlemagne, the pedestal of i 
 
which is adorned with statues of his 
 ancestors. The city has some beautif al 
 parks and bonlevards. On one of the 
 hills back of the town is the citadel, 
 which can be reached by a flight of 
 abont four hundred steps From this 
 point a good view of the city and its 
 surroundings can be obtained. At sev- 
 enteen and a half o'clock we bade fare- 
 well to Liege and started for Maas 
 tricht by boat In Belginm the hours of 
 day are officially reckoned from one to 
 twenty-four, but popularly in the usual 
 fashion. 
 
 The distance to Maastricht is only 
 twenty miles, but it took us four hours 
 and a half. A little below Leige the 
 Meuse become too shallow and too rapid 
 for navigation, and so it has been paral- 
 leled by a canal with several locks. The 
 little steamer seldom ventured to try a 
 speed of six miles an hour. The view 
 embraced the two banks, each with 
 their row of trees, and an occasional 
 glimpse of hills in the distance. The 
 more beautiful scenery of the Meuse it- 
 self we missed. Here once more my 
 good spirits stood me in good stead for 
 I quite enjoyed the trip while my friend 
 soon grew restless and vowed that, if he 
 only had his wheel, he would give that 
 steamer some points on speed. We 
 took with us from Leige some sand- 
 wiches and a bottle of olives. At one 
 place where there were two locks to- 
 gether we got out and tried a little inn 
 for something to drink. For me they 
 produced a bottle of the worst soda I 
 ever drank, and for my friend a bottle 
 of the worst wine I hope he will ever at- 
 tempt to drink. When we left the boat 
 we donated the rest of the wine which 
 means practically all to the crew. We 
 have not heard from them since. At 
 one of th9 little stations near Maas- 
 tricht the Dutch custom officers came 
 aboard and had to be convinced that I 
 had no wine, tobacco or cigars. They 
 were not quite so willing to take my 
 word for it in the dark and had to look 
 for themselves, but we soon put them 
 ashore and renewed our rapid journey. 
 At, Maastricht another boat had tied up 
 
to the dock and steadfastly refused to 
 move, PO we had to tie up along shore 
 as best we could. We got one of the 
 old boatmen with a lantern to escort us 
 to a hotel the Daenen, which we found 
 a very curious old place with some pre 
 tences to modernity. We managed to 
 get some bread and mineral water for a 
 lunch and then retired. At Maastricht 
 we ceased to find French mineral wa- 
 ters and began to get German waters. 
 In this case it was Kaiserbrunner. an 
 Aix-la Chapelle water. 
 
 Maastricht seems lite a very sm?ll 
 place, but is said to contain 30,000 in- 
 habitants. The name of the town is a 
 corruption of the old Roman name 
 which meant the upper ford of the 
 Meuse or Maas, as it is spelled in 
 Dutch. The lower ford was Utrecht, 
 Maastricht has not been unknown te 
 history since the Roman days, and as 
 lately as 1830 it was the scene of strife 
 between the Dutch and the Belgians. 
 At the upper end of the towu, near the 
 canal, is a remnant of the ancient forti- 
 cations. The streets are irregular and 
 the buildings comparatively old* The 
 church of St. Servatius is said to be the 
 oldest in the Netherlands, and, in spite 
 of restorations, it really does bear very 
 evident marks of antiquity. The form- 
 er baptistry of the church is now the 
 Protestant church. Opposite our ho- 
 tel was the church of Notre Dame, or in 
 Dutch LieveVrou wekerke which belongs 
 to the eleventh century, but is now in the 
 hands of the restorer. We were espe- 
 cially pleased with our visit to the 
 town hall, where we encountered a 
 clerk who showed us through the build- 
 ing and its fine old seventeenth century 
 rooms with their old furniture and tap- 
 estries and paintings. Frequent show- 
 ers rather interrupted our sight-seeing 
 so that while we saw all the principal 
 sights we should have enjoyed wander- 
 ing about a bit more. During one of 
 sunny interludes between the showers 
 my friend attempted to get a photo- 
 graph of the church of St. Servatius, 
 but the moment he sat up his tripod, \ 
 rained children from all directions, and 
 so his picture was more children than 
 
church. It has been the regular experi- 
 ence that everybody here is anxions to 
 have his picture taken, and no sooner 
 does the camera fiend begin operations 
 than they flock from all sides, men, wo- 
 men and children. When the job is 
 completed they, crowd np expecting to 
 see the results immediately. The Dutch, 
 we discovered, were a thrifty people, as 
 we had read in our geographies many 
 years ago, quite too thrifty for us, so we 
 turned pur erring steps towardsGermany 
 Maastricht is blessed with no railroad, 
 so one must cross the Meuse and pass 
 through the suburb of Wyk on the 
 right bank and then out in the country 
 he finds the railroad station. We left 
 about noon and reached Aix la-Chapelle 
 at about half-past two, a distance of 
 twenty-five miles without any scenery 
 or place of special interest. The length 
 of time occupied by the journey is not 
 as great as appears, for the change from 
 Western Enropean or Greenwich time 
 i to Middle European time is made in 
 | crossing the border into Germany. At 
 I Aix-la Chapelle we readily passed the 
 
 German customs examination and went 
 directly to our hotel, the King of Spain, 
 which we have since remembered as 
 our ideal hotel. However that and Ger- 
 many are another story. 
 
 I must not close this letter without a 
 gocd word for our guide. Baedeker's 
 Guide Books are simply indespensable 
 for the European tourist, since they 
 contain full information not only in re- 
 gard to the sights he should see, but as 
 to railroad journeys, hotels, cabs, street 
 cars, and everything that the traveller 
 needs to know. To be sure he makes 
 some mistakes, but they are very few, 
 and one is constantly surprised at his 
 completeness and accuracy. The things 
 I have mentioned in this letter are those 
 that impressed me, and may not always 
 be those that are most important, and 
 my impressions may not always be cor- 
 rect, but such as they are I have given 
 them. Another person might perhaps 
 travel ovef the same ground and have 
 entirely different impressions. 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 GEORGE M. DUTCHER. 
 
 MUNICH, Sept. 28, 1900. 
 
OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, JANUARY 3, 1901. 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Butcher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting Letter. 
 
 MUNICH, Oct. 2, 1900. 
 My Dear Sir : 
 
 if Reims was interesting, Aix la- 
 Chapelle, or Aachen, to use its German 
 name, was doubly so: more than that, it 
 was delightful, Reims, as I have said, 
 is the place where the kings of France 
 were crowned, so Aachen is interesting 
 as the place of coronation of the Holy 
 Roman Emperors for about seven cen- 
 turies. "Holy Roman Emperor" was 
 the title of the rules in Germany from 
 800 to 1806, and until the sixteenth cen- 
 tury they were regularly crowned at 
 Rome and at Aachen. Several import- 
 ant treaties have been negotiated and 
 signed here in more recent times. In 
 spite of its being the capital of Charle- 
 magne, and of its importance ever since, 
 there is scarcely an old building exist- 
 ing in the city except the cathedral, the 
 main part of which was built by Char- 
 lemagne, and some of the old city gates, 
 which are still preserved as relics, but 
 even they are of a far later date. The 
 city has been almost completely rebuilt 
 during the present generation. The 
 streets are wide, well paved and clean. 
 The houses are large modern buildings 
 of attractive appearance. Taken alto- 
 gether the contrast with Reims is very 
 marked Reims quiet, with the atmos- 
 phere of the middle ages; Aachen a 
 busy, active place with every mark of 
 the nineteenth century. Aachen is sit- 
 uated on the very confines of Germany, 
 and within ten miles of it the bounda- 
 ries of Belgium, Germany and the 
 Nettherlands meet. The city lies in a 
 valley and forms a beautiful sight 
 when viewed from the top of one of the 
 neighboring hills, such as the Lousberg 
 
The population, including its suburb 
 of Bartscheid, is 130,000. 
 
 The cathedral is the chief object of 
 interest, though it can in no way be 
 compared to the beantifnl cathedral in 
 Reims as an archictnral masterpiece. 
 The original structure erected by Char- 
 lemagne about the year 800 still exists, 
 practically unchanged, but around this 
 central octagon additions have been 
 built from time to time, the latest be- 
 ing the Hungarian chapel, in the last 
 century The bronze entrance doors also 
 belong to the time of Charlemagne. 
 The beautiful choir added in the four- 
 teenth century, has been adorned with 
 splendid new stained glass during the 
 present century, and contains several 
 objects of interest, some . of them of 
 great antiquity. The most valued pos- 
 sessions of the cathedral are collected in 
 the treasury which occupies the Hunga- 
 rian chapel. They consist of such relics 
 as the robe of the Virgin, the swaddling 
 clothes of Christ, the hair of John the 
 Baptist, a piece of the cross, the bones 
 of Charlemange. and various others, be- 
 sides various objects used in the church 
 service/ 
 
 Next to the Cathedral, the Rathhaus, 
 or town hall is the most important 
 building of interest. It was built on the 
 .site of the old imperial palace in the 
 fourteenth century, and was restored 
 during the century, but about twenty 
 years ago suffered seriously from fire, 
 and the second restoration, which is 
 still in progress, is leaving little to in- 
 dicate the age of the structure. When 
 completed it will be a splendid public 
 building beautiful in both exterior and 
 interior, The finest apartment is the 
 Kaiser saal or imperial hall, which is dec- 
 orated with excellent mural paintings 
 representing important event in the life 
 of Charlemagne. The windows contain 
 stained glass bearing the arms, names 
 and dates of coronations of the Emper- 
 ors crowned at Aachen. Besides the 
 Rathhaus, there are a number of other 
 fine modern buildings of a public or 
 semi-public nature. The other churches 
 are either of recent dates, or have been 
 restored recently, so that they are all 
 
quite modern in appearance Aachen 
 bas been famous ever since Roman 
 times for its spring of mineral water, 
 and its name is a corruption of the Rt - 
 man name of the place which was given 
 in allusion to these springs. Even now 
 the city is much frequented as a health 
 resort, and the hotels and drink halls, 
 which have been erected in the neigh- 
 borhood of the springs, are much Ire 
 quented both by citizens and visitors. 
 The municipal art gallery, though not 
 extensive, contains a choice selection of 
 pictures, most of which were presented 
 to his native city about twenty years 
 ago by Herr Suerinondt, in whose honor 
 the collection is known as the Suerrnondt 
 Museum. Althougth the gallery con- 
 tains no famous picture, many of the 
 masters are represented by one or more 
 works. At various points about the 
 town on street corners or parks stand 
 little wooden cabins called drink-halls, 
 where mineral waters and soft drinks 
 are for sale. Such little drink halls, 
 which resembled the old Tillotson stand 
 on the corner of North avenue and Main 
 street, though a little more artistic in 
 appearance, are to be found in most 
 German cities. Aachen is quite a 
 manufacturing town and is especially 
 famous for its needles. The appearance 
 of the people is in marked contrast to 
 that of the French whom we had seen 
 at Reims. They are now vigorous 
 and healthy in appearance, and, 
 on the average, bfetter clothed. I 
 was going to say better dressed, but 
 they are no well-dressed Germans ex- 
 cept th,e army officers. This opinion is 
 undoubtedly based upon the American 
 conception of what the phrase "well- 
 dressed" means and not upon the Ger- 
 man, if so be that they have any. Even 
 the German dandy would have to pay 
 some attention to his ties, and much to 
 his collars and shoes, to say nothing of 
 the fit of his garments, if he would com- 
 pete with the average American youths. 
 Probably nothing contributes more to 
 a pleasing impression of a place than 
 a pleasant room and good board, and in 
 this we were most fortunate at Aachen. 
 The "King of Spain" (probably the 
 
descendant of an ancient tavern which 
 had as its sign the portrait of some 
 Spanish Monarch) like onr Reims hotel, 
 is patronized almost entirely by travel 
 ling men and is an unpretentious place- 
 with moderate charges The German 
 breakfast (or Fruehstueck corresponds 
 exactly to the French petit dejeuner. 
 The noonday meal or Mittagessen as al- 
 ways a la carte and is generally eaten at 
 about half past seven. A good room 
 can be had anywhere in Germany for 
 two marks, and Fruehstueck for one 
 mark. In many places good accommo- 
 dations can be had for a mark and a 
 half with Fruehstueck at three-quarters 
 of a mark. The table d'hote dinner 
 costs from two marks and a half up- 
 wards, with three marks as a reasonable 
 average However, except in places 
 along the French border, the dinner is 
 no longer served table d'hote but a sim- 
 ilar course dinner is served apart at 
 prices ranging from a mark upwards, 
 depending on the number of courses. A 
 good dinner with soup, two meats with 
 side dishes and dessert can generally be 
 had for from one mark twenty pfennigs, 
 to one mark fifty pfinnigs, while a third 
 course of meat costs thirty or forty 
 pfennigs more. If dinner of this sort 
 cannot be obtained in the hotel, one can 
 generally find a good restaurant handy. 
 The supper is apt to be more expensive 
 than the dinner, for the American taste 
 and appetite can seldom be satisfied for 
 less than two marks. Sometimes one 
 will find that a regular supper is served 
 for a mark or a trifle more, which will 
 suit as well as a supper of his own choos- 
 ing. In almost every case the drinks 
 are extra, generally amounting to about 
 fifty pfennings. Including the necessary 
 fees one can seldom do better than eight 
 marks a day for room and board at the 
 hotels and restaurants in Germany. 
 Tips or tririkgeld (drink money) are not 
 expected quite as much as in France, 
 but the waiters look for a tip of five or 
 ten per cent of the bill, and the porter 
 expects even demands a liberal fee 
 for permission to carry your baggage. 
 One very good way to be economical is 
 to be your own porter. 
 
The German mark at the standard 
 rate of exchange is 23 8 cents, and is di- 
 vided into one hnndred parts callee. 
 pfennigs. The gold coins are the ten 
 and twenty mark pieces; the silver 
 pieces .are of five, three, two and one 
 marks and fifty and twenty pfennings; 
 there are five, ten and twenty pfenning 
 nickel pieces, and one and two pfenning 
 copper coins. There are also bank notes 
 of five, twenty, fifty, one hundred, five 
 hnndred and one thousand marks. Gold 
 coins are in constant use in a way that 
 surprises the American, and bank notes 
 are far less in evidence. Small amounts 
 are always carried in gold, and the only 
 bank notes that are familiar are those 
 of fifty and one hundred marks. In 
 drawing my money I regularly get gold. 
 The method of carrying money which I 
 have adopted is a letter of credit with a 
 London banking firm. These letters of 
 credit can be obtained through almost 
 any bank in the United States for sums 
 of one hundred pounds or multiples 
 thereof and cost 1 per cent. To obtain 
 your money, you visit the bank, in the 
 place where you are, which is the cor- 
 respondent of your London banker, pre- 
 sent your letter of credit and ask for 
 say five pounds. The banker writes a 
 draftj on the London bankers which 
 you sign, usually along with a receipt 
 for the five pounds, and the amount of 
 the draft is indorsed on the letter of 
 credit. Ycu then present the receipt, 
 or the banker's memorandum at the 
 cashier's window and receive your five 
 pounds in German money at the cur- 
 rent rate of exchange which varies 
 from 101 to 102 marks. It is wisest to 
 draw only so much as one needs imme- 
 diately, for money maybe drawn on the 
 letter of credit almost anywhere even 
 with bankers who are not on the list of 
 correspondents of your bankers With- 
 in the last few years a new method has 
 become quite popular because of its 
 cheapness one-half of 1 per cent. and 
 because of its greater convenience, that 
 i^ to use the checks of the American 
 Express Company or of some other well- 
 known banking corporation. These 
 

 
checks which are drawn for convenient ! 
 amounts, come in books for such round 
 sums as five hundred dollars. Each 
 check is signed by the purchaser in the 
 presence of the company's agent, and 
 when he wishes it cashed he signs it 
 again in the presence of the company's 
 agent where he wishes to draw the 
 money. The identity of the signature, 
 as is also the case with the letters of 
 credit, is considered sufficient identifica- 
 tion. These checks are paid at a fixed 
 rate of exchange which is printed on the 
 check. In the matter of exchange the 
 owners of letters of credit and of checks 
 will generally come out about even in 
 the long run. The traveller who is con- 
 stantly on the wing has his mail ad- 
 dressed to his bankers who forward it to 
 him at his direction. It is much better 
 to have letters sent this way and then 
 readdressed in care of the banker's cor 
 respondent in the place where yon are, 
 than to have them addressed to your 
 hotel or boarding house, or to the gen- 
 eral delivery (poste restante). You will 
 find that the banker will almost inva- 
 riably speak English, that he is always 
 courteous and you feel that 3 T our letters 
 are safe as you cannot when you see the 
 way they are treated at hotels, or when 
 you have to depend upon the doubtful 
 understanding of a foreign postal offi- 
 cial. A large supply of calling cards is 
 a very handy thing, for it is always 
 safe to present one in asking for your 
 mail in order that there shall be no 
 mistake about the name. In leaving a 
 place always give the banker a card 
 with your next address so that any let 
 ters that may arrive too late for you 
 may be sent on. The courtesy of th 
 German banking officials and clerks is 
 a constat and pleasant surprise even to 
 one accustomed to the most courteous 
 treatment by American bankers. Every 
 bank with any pretentious has a uni- 
 formed porter at the outer door who 
 raises his hat and says, "Good morn 
 ing" and is ready to direct you, and 
 when you leave he salntes you in like 
 manner. The more pretentious banks 
 also have another porter at the inner 
 door, and, in response to his salutation, 
 
yon remove yoar hatand leave it on the 
 hat rack until you leave the bank. The 
 banking honrs vary somewhat bat are 
 nsnally from 8 to 12 in the morning and 
 from 3 to 5 in the afternoon. 
 
 CONTINUED NEXT WEEK, 
 
 OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, JANUARY 10, 1901. 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 1 George M. Butcher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting Tetter. 
 
 (Continued from last week.) 
 
 We left Aachen on Saturday morn- 
 ing, the fourth of August, and reached 
 Cologne at noon after a ride of forty 
 five miles which took an hour and a 
 qnarter 011 an express train. German 
 trains vary little from the French, ex 
 cept that as a rule, they are a little bet 
 ter and a little more convenient, About 
 the stations also, as a general thing, the 
 safety and convenience of the traveller 
 is looked after more carefully. Along 
 the Rhine, at least, the ordinary trains 
 carry four classes of passengers. The 
 fourth class is about half as good and 
 half as expensive as the third, The 
 fonrih class cars have seats along the 
 sides and ends and the rest is standing 
 room. They are patronized almost ex- 
 clusively by working people. The or- 
 dinary train (personenzug) is very slow 
 and corresponds to our "accommoda- 
 tion train" and sometimes even to our 
 freight and accommodation." The ex- 
 press train (sclmellzug) carries no fourth 
 class, and the o;her clisses pay from 
 two-thirds of a cent to a cent more per 
 mile on the express train than on the 
 ordinary train. The express train is 
 snppo^ed to correspond to our trains 
 like Erie train No. 1, but No. 1 would 
 distance them in short order. 
 
 The city of our next stay is known to 
 th:> French and English as Cologne and 
 to the Germans as Koln, or as it is now 
 officially spelled, Coin. The name 
 
c >mes from that or the original lioman 
 s ittlement Colonia Agrippinensis f ound- 
 ei in the first century. {Since the time 
 of Charlemagne it has been the seat of 
 an arch bishop, who, like the Bishop of 
 Liege, gradually became the real tem- 
 poral ruler of the city and surrounding 
 country, and ultimately he became one 
 of the seven great princes of the Em- 
 pire whose right it was to elect the Em- 
 peror. Also like the Bishop of Liege 
 he was engaged for centuries in a strug- 
 gle with the towns people who insisted 
 upon asserting, what they were pleased 
 to consider, their rights. The French 
 Revolution ended the temporal power 
 of the Archbishop of Cologne and his 
 dominions became a part of France, but 
 after the overthrow of Napoleon they 
 passed to Prussia. The population 
 amounts to at least 860,000, while there 
 are several towns within a radius of five 
 miles from the cathedral with a 
 total of at least 50,000 more 
 inhabitants. During the seventeenth 
 and eighteenth centuries the Protest- 
 ants were expelled from Cologne and 
 took up their residence in the neighbor- 
 ing towns. As a result Cologne is a 
 Catholic stronghold, and more than 
 yigbty per cent, of the population is 
 Catholic. At the beginn : n^ of the cen- 
 tury Cologne was pre-eminently a city of 
 churches for they then numbered more 
 than a hundred. Many of them were 
 secularized during the French rule and 
 have disappeared. The city is also im 
 portant in a military way, as there aie 
 extensive fortifications with large gar- 
 risons in the immediate neighborhood. 
 Few places in Europe are better 
 known to the tourist than Cologne. For 
 this there are two reasons. It is the 
 usual starting point for a trip up the 
 Rhine, or the terminus of a trip down; 
 and it has a cathedral which is proba 
 bly the finest example of gothic archi- 
 tecture in the world. This famous 
 church was begun by Archbishop Con- 
 ral of He chstaden in 1248 and comple- 
 ted in 1880. The oldest part is the 
 choir, then the transept*, then the nave 
 aod finally the towers. During the 
 thirteenth, fourteenth and fifteenth 
 
centuries, neither time, talent nor money 
 were spared on the great work. Then 
 for thirteen centuries little more was 
 done, and daring the eighteenth centu 
 ry it was already beginning to show 
 marks of neglect when the French sol- 
 diers arrived in Cologne, and found the 
 cathedral convenient for a bar barn 
 It was not until the city became Prus 
 sian that the cathedral once more re- 
 ceived proper attention, and, under a 
 succession of able architects, was 
 brought to completion, according to the 
 original plans as far as they could be 
 found. During the present century, sev 
 eral millions of dollars have been ex- 
 pended in the work of repairing and 
 completing the building. The centu- 
 ries which the great church stood un- 
 completed gave rise to a typical rnedi 
 aeval German legend that the Evil One 
 famished the architect with the plan in 
 exchange for his soul. Afterwards the 
 architect repented of the bargain; and 
 the Devil, when he paw that he was 
 cheated, pronounced the curse that the 
 building should never be completed and 
 that its architect's name should never 
 be remembered. Modern enterprise has, 
 however, completed the building and 
 modern investigation has identified 
 with some degree of certainty the name 
 of the master who planned it. This 
 story is told in a pleasing manner in 
 "Zigzag Journeys in Northern Lands," 
 and so may be remembered by many 
 who in younger days have enjoyed that 
 series of stories of travel. 
 
 It would be folly for me to attempt 
 any sort of description of this beau- 
 tiful structure but I can mention 
 some of the most beautiful and 
 interesting points. Standing near the 
 entrance door or in the choir the view 
 of the nave is magnificent. From the 
 floor to the ceiling, which is supported by 
 four rows of massive columns, the dis- 
 tance is 145 feet. The two aisles on 
 either side of the nave and formed by 
 the columns are about half as wide and 
 half as high as the nave itself. In the 
 five windows in the north aisle the 
 stained glass belongs to the beginning of 
 the sixteenth century, while for the cor- 
 
responding windows in the south aisle 
 the stained glass was designed and made 
 in Mnnich and presented to the cathe 
 drai by King Louis I of Bavaria in 1848 
 In both cases the work and the designs 
 were the best that the age could afford, 
 and both series of windows are magnifi 
 cent, yet the contrast between the two 
 is very marked, and not all the good 
 points are on the side of the modern 
 work. The choir, as the oldest part of 
 church, contains much of interest as do 
 also the eight chapels which encircle it, 
 and the sacristy and treasury which ad- 
 join it. Here are the tombs of several of 
 the archbishops, old stained glass win- 
 dows and ancient altars, besides carvings 
 and paintings of various degrees of anti- 
 quity. The orignal plans of the cathe 
 dral, as far as they exist, are preserved in 
 these chapels. The altar piece in one of 
 the chapels is the famous Dombild, a 
 series of five pictures painted by Ste- 
 phan Lochner abont 1450, which is gen- 
 erally considered the masterpiece of the 
 early German school of painting, la 
 
 the treasury are many valuable and in- 
 teresting objects, of which the most im- 
 portant is the large, handsomely deco- 
 rated reliquary which contains the bones 
 of the "Three Wise Men," or as the 
 Germans always call them. "The Three 
 Kings." For centuries these bones were 
 at Constantinople and then at Milan, 
 whence they were taken by the Emper- 
 or Frederick Barbarossa and presented 
 to Cologne more than seven hundred 
 years ago The possession of the re- 
 nowned relics of the Three Kings is to 
 this day proudly heralded by the three 
 crowns in the city's arms?. To visit the 
 choir, the chapels and the treasury cost 
 a mark and a half, but one feels amply 
 repaid for it, as he does also for the 
 mark which it cost to ascend one of the 
 towers and to walk about the galleries 
 inside and outside the cathedral. With- 
 out this visit to the galleries and tow- 
 
 I era which demands a great deal of exer- 
 tion, one has little idea of the real grand- 
 eur and beauty of the building. In the 
 course of this visit one also sees the 
 
 I cathedral bells, the Itrgest of which 
 weighs twenty-five tons and requires 
 
twenty eight men to ring it, a feat only 
 attempted on special occasions. From 
 the tower one gets a splendid view of 
 the city and the surrounding country. 
 Externally the cathedral, or dom as it is 
 always called in German, did not im- 
 press me quits so favorably as 1 had ex- 
 pected, nor as well as did" the magnifi- 
 cent interior, The west facade, or front, 
 is beautiful, but with the exception of 
 the towers cannot be compared to the 
 splendid facade of the Reims cathedral. 
 The twin towers with their beautiful 
 open work spires 512 feet high merit all 
 the praise that can be bestowed upon 
 them. The cathedral must not be vis- 
 ited hurriedly, for it requires a great 
 deal of time to appreciate it and should 
 be seen in two or three visits instead of 
 one prolonged one. In fact several vis- 
 its are quite apt to be necessary since 
 the frequent services interrupt the 
 sight-seers, for quite properly perfect 
 order is rigidly maintained during ser- 
 vice by gorgeous red-robed black-cap- 
 ped beadles, who wield as their symbol 
 of authority long wooden rods adorned 
 with brass. 
 
 CONTINUED NEXT WEEK, 
 
 OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, JANUARY 17, 1901. 
 
 _______ 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 G.-orgo M. Du'cher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting: I etter. 
 
 (Continued from last week ) 
 Besides the Doin, I visited about fif- 
 teen other churches, most of them 
 hoary with age, in epite of the restora- 
 tions and found them more or less in- 
 teresting. Cologne has about as many 
 more churches, either small or modern, 
 which offer no attraction to the tourist 
 By all odds, the one most worthy of a 
 visit is the church of St Ursula and 
 the 11, 000 virgins. To see this sacred 
 place one mark's worth of filthy lucre 
 
i.s necessary. As a rnie guides and 
 sacristans discourse upon the objects 
 of interest in German, and, for the ben- 
 efit of English and French visitors, 
 make a few side remarks which they 
 have picked up and memorized but thi^ 
 sacristan was an exception arid seemed 
 a well -educated, intelligent man. He 
 described at length the various relics in 
 good English at,d good French, there 
 being no Germans in the party. That 
 he was not reciting his "piece" was 
 evident, for he gave intelligent an- 
 swers to various questions in both Ian 
 guages. The chief relics, as is always 
 the rule, are gathered in the treasury, 
 and include the skulls of Sfc. Ursula and 
 and many of her companions, highly 
 prized relics of several other ?ainfs. and 
 old reliquaries, rnonetrances and othe r 
 objects connected with the church and 
 its services. In the party was a middle 
 aged man I fear an American who 
 sniffed in a sceptical manner as each 
 valued, sacred relic was reverently dis- 
 played and described. Finally there 
 was shown us one of the water jars 
 from the wedding feast of Cana. This 
 waa too much for him and he sniffed 
 more audibly than ever and proceeded 
 to make known his doubts in the matter. 
 In reply the guide explained that it 
 was a well substantiated fact that the 
 jar was brought from Cana to Cologne 
 during the Crusades, and added con- 
 vincingly that the Crusades wonld not 
 have gone to all that bother if it had 
 not been the real thing. I do not know 
 what the real feeling of tiv? Catholic 
 are in regard to these various relics but 
 I do know that they always treat them 
 with the greatest reverence, and it 
 seems to me that those who are not Cath 
 olics should not go to see these relics un- 
 less they are willing to be polite enough 
 to respect the feelings of those to whom 
 they are sacred. The guide explained 
 to us the history of St. Ursula and the 
 11,000 virgins in this way: St. Ursula 
 was an English princess who, with 
 some attendants, had made a pilgrim- 
 age to Rome and happened to be at Co 
 logne on her way home when A*tUa, 
 the Hun. in his retreat after his deci 
 
sive defeat HI; Chalons reached the city 
 and wreaked a terrible vengeance upon 
 it. The men perished in atteojpting to 
 off the attack, and the women, 
 about 11,000 in number, were to be tak- 
 en home by Attila as slaves, but under 
 the lead of St. Ursula they refused to 
 submit to the ignorny and shame which 
 this implied, and, consequently, were 
 massacred on the spot just outside the 
 gates of the old city. When the Scourge, 
 as Attilla called himself, had passed, 
 the few survivors of the inhabitants re- 
 turned and reverently buried the bodies 
 of the martyrs at the place where they 
 fell. As far as identification was pos- 
 sible the bodies were each placed in & 
 separate stone coffin, but the vast mass 
 could not be identified and their bodies 
 were buried together. In the course of 
 time a church was built on the spot and 
 ultimately the church became the re- 
 pository for the bones of the martyrs 
 which were exhumed, Several of the 
 stone coffins, including St. Ursula's, 
 are preserved in the church. Besides 
 the large number of skulls and other 
 bones preserved in the Treasury, there 
 is a far larger quantity disposed about 
 the walls of the whole church, often 
 times arranged in an artistic manner. 
 Of the other important churches, the 
 jr for tb*Mr "*iquity and 
 their architecture are Si. vjoi-eon, St. 
 Martin's, St. Maria im Capitol, and the 
 Apostle's Church. 
 
 Of the government buildings in Co- 
 logue< the only one to which age lends 
 a charm is the Rathhaus, of which the 
 most r.ncient part is five centuries old. 
 Several additions have been made at 
 various times, and now tbe nsim! ] 
 ration is in progress. A court in the 
 building, known as the Lion's Court, 
 commemorates an incident in the per- 
 ennial struggle between the archbishop 
 and the townspeople A certain moie 
 or lesgood archbishp did not love a cer- 
 tain more or less wicked burgomaster, 
 and one day the burgomasi>r was : an 
 unwilling guest in the arbhbishop's 
 den of lions, but Daniel like, he escaped 
 unhurt There are several fine, inter- 
 esting apartments in the Ratbhaus, of 
 
which the most notable is a large ha)l 
 in the oldest part of tha building, in 
 which the first meeting of the Hanseatic 
 League is said to have been held in 1367. 
 Oi : museums, the only one worthy of 
 mention is the municipal collection 
 known as the Wallraf-Richartz Museum 
 from two natives of Cologne who made 
 the most important donations to it. 
 The lower floor is occupied by the collec 
 tion of antiques, and the paintings fill 
 the rooms on the upper floor. The most 
 valuable part of the collection, consists 
 of works of tbe early school of painters 
 who flourished at Cologne in the fif- 
 teenth centnry. The subjects of these 
 pictures are almost invariably biblical 
 or ecclesiastical and the execution is 
 quite different from onr present day 
 ideals, yet they exhibit a good deal of 
 genius and are of great importance in 
 the history of art. There are several 
 e-ond works of Italian and Netherlan- 
 dish masters, bnt the gam of the collec- 
 ti >u is the Pardon of St. Francis, by 
 Mnrillo. The modern painters are well 
 represented, but I must mention only a 
 s ngle picture, the well-known portrait 
 of Queen Lonise, by Ricliter. copies of 
 which are to be seen all over Germany, 
 In monuments and fountains, Co- 
 logne is not lacking, yet I must content 
 .myself with mentioning but one, the 
 monument in memory of Frederick 
 William III, King of Persia, the hus- 
 band of Qaeen Louise and the father of 
 the Old Kaiser. On a high pedestal is 
 an equestrian statue of the king sur 
 rounded by statues of the leading 
 statesmen and soldiers who served him. 
 On the sides of the pedestal are reliefs 
 representing Prussian progress during 
 the king's reign. Of bridges, Cologne 
 boasts of one and has another. A great 
 iron viaduct carries the railroad and 
 the higaway across the Rhine to Deutz 
 on the east bank. At the Cologne end 
 of the bridge is an equestrian statue of 
 Frederick William IV., and at the 
 Deutz end is one of William I. As on 
 many of the Rhine bridges a toll is 
 charged, in this case two pfennigs, one- 
 half cent Above the iron bridge is a 
 bridge of boats, one of the many on the 
 

Rhine. The bridges are built in sec- 
 tions which are borne by boats in. form 
 like a row boat, bnt in size, great scows. 
 The boats carrying certain sections of 
 the bridge are propelled by steani so that 
 the bridge can open and let steamers 
 pass, and then close again. These 
 bridges of boats are for teams and pedes- 
 trians, who must always pay a toll 
 
 Cologne's busiest street is the Hohe 
 Strasse, or High street, with its contin^- 
 nations and a visit to Cologne is incom- 
 plete without a walk along it, both in 
 the daytime and in the evening. This 
 important business street is, of course, 
 not straight, and in width certainly 
 never exceeds that of Lake street at the 
 Front street end, and in places is nar- 
 rower. Stores and shops of all sorts are 
 to be found along either side of the 
 street, each vying with the other in dis 
 playing its wares to ca^ch the unwary 
 tourist. Running through the middle 
 of one of the blocks from the Hohe 
 Strasse to the next street parallel, is the 
 Empress Augusta Passage, an arcade 
 with little shops on either side. Similar 
 passages or arcades are to be found in 
 various European cities. At all times 
 of day and in the evening the Hohe 
 tfa.s-,sr is thronged, and. the little yard- 
 wide sidewalks ara abandoned and 
 everybody walks in the middle of the 
 street. This habit of walking in the 
 middle of the street is quite universal 
 and frequently necessary in Germany. 
 Sidewalks are a thing comparatively 
 modern, it seems, and frequently one 
 finds the pavement of the roadway 
 much preferable. The favorite material 
 for both sidewalks and road ways is stone 
 in blocks, with surfaces about six inch- 
 es square. Asphalt, or cement walks, 
 are common, and asphalt roadways are 
 coming into favor. Occasionally one 
 finds streets paved with wooden blocks. 
 
 In Cologne, as is frequently the case 
 in the large cities now, the ancient for- 
 tifications have been removed and their 
 place taken by a Ringstrasse^ or circle of 
 boulevards, Along this Ringstrasse are 
 the finest buildings of modern Cologne, 
 and along it and in the adjacent streets 
 
I are the finest residences. These boule- 
 I vards consist not or walks and 
 
 I roadways but are 1 ned with rows of 
 
 - plots, 
 
 :s, fonntains, artificial streams 
 i, and a few relics of t- 
 A walk on th* 
 
 Bating than oii'i on the 
 mature 
 
 vast number of 
 '.r*;n and nurse maids. 
 
 in Cologne lasted jast fonr 
 pat ail our time in 
 g for uiy frieud had 
 -unk and bicycle to hnnt np and 
 As he is to stay in Germany, 
 i".M taken on to Hamburg by 
 sent ori to Cologne, 
 -and everything f-.afe and satisfac- 
 tory, after the necessary trouble in dis- 
 roper people and getting 
 i to their erd of the pro- 
 la tun meantime, I frittered 
 away valuable honrs in one way and 
 
 t, of the while 1 
 ii* series of letter*. Oar 
 .;ne, the Land 
 ., it was i 
 
 firal. While not absolutely bad, it 
 
 Ht corne-dov;u from the King 
 
 ! Aachen, thongh in JHK 
 
 tiou 1 might hdd that it was a trifle 
 
 i a little aujabement 
 
 he elderly 
 
 m the dining- 
 
 :iind a little counter 
 
 d the waiter's 
 
 ihe kitchen throngh a 
 
 w. Throngh the same 
 
 <;d the va 
 
 ,u the kitcnen and \>- 
 tneLu on to the waiter. The expre 
 which I, that amused us most 
 
 was "Three times one eonp," whe 1 . 
 
 i to order three scraps. Her dia 
 lectical pronunciation heightened the 
 humorous effect. In Cologne, my friend 
 and I each indulged in an experiment 
 on how the Germans do it. He had his 
 hair cat. a shave and a shampoo all for 
 nineteen ( looked quite pre 
 
 jf the 
 uiented on the lann- 
 
dry. My luck 'was not bad, neither 
 was it startingly good. The work was 
 iy done arid the prices a trifle 
 e, More recent ex 
 'ii this 'line have been more 
 ;ble and a little cheaper. The 
 laundries over here nnblnshingly adver- 
 . ;buiseives as chemical wanning es- 
 tablishmentsa fact which does not 
 Horve to recommend them to Americans. 
 The morning we were in Maastricht, 
 rain somewhat hindered onr sight see- 
 ing, and thereafter for over three weeks 
 scarcely a period of twenty four hours 
 elapsed without some rain. A heavy 
 shower came up on Wednesday morning 
 when we had planned to start np the 
 tthiue. My friend was to ride his 
 wheel while I was to go on by train or 
 is thb notion might seize me. The 
 raiiji -ceased about noon and we decided 
 on to Bonn by the 1 o'clock boat, 
 ar greedy appetites did not permit. 
 Finding. nearly two hours on oar hands 
 to waste, we took a little local steamer 
 to Mnlheiin am Rhein, three miles 
 the river on the opposite bank. 
 Muiheiin is a city of thirty thousand in 
 habitants, mostly descendants of the 
 Protestants who were expelled from 
 Cologne in the seventieth century. The 
 only sights in this busy factory town 
 are the beautiful modern church and an 
 nan statue of the Old Kaiser. 
 Returning from this hurried excursion, 
 lock boat up tbe world's 
 most famous river. Whether the Rhine 
 i.->not the moat famous river in the 
 world I am not sure, but I am certain 
 that it ought not to be. How I came to 
 form this terrible Judgment I must re- 
 late in the future, 
 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 GEORGE M. DUTCHER. 
 
OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, JANUARY 24, 1901, 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Butcher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting Letter. 
 
 PARIS, December 5, 1900. 
 My Dear Sir: 
 
 Several weeks have passed since that 
 dismal night of cold and rain at Nnrem- 
 bnrg when I finished iny last letter to 
 yon. Meanwhile I have seen two of 
 Germany's greatest cities and many oth- 
 ers of smaller size and less notoriety, 
 and have revisited the two cities men- 
 tioned in my last letter and now I am 
 once more settled in the city whose 
 prond boast is that she is France. 
 
 First impressions are proverbially 
 nntrnstworthy, so I planned on my trip 
 from Berlin to Paris to stop off for a 
 few honrs at Cologne and at Aachen 
 and take a review lesson. I am delight- 
 ed that I did; for I had the pleasure of 
 finding that my first impressions had 
 not been too roseate, but the contrary. 
 It was indeed a pleasure after having 
 seen the most famous churches in Ger- 
 many, to come back to that most fa- 
 mous of all and to find how justly it has 
 won its fame. To be sure there are 
 various cathedrals and churches which 
 can surpass the Cologne Cathedral in 
 some detail: Ulm has a loftier spire, 
 Strassburg a finer west facade, and 
 Bamberg and Erfurt more picturesque 
 situations. Taken altogether, both for 
 exterior and for interior, the Cologne 
 cathedral is unsurpassed in beauty and 
 grandeur in Germany. The Aachen 
 cathedral also pleased better than be- 
 fore, though it is not so ancient as that 
 in Treves, and is rivaled in historic in- 
 terest by that at Frankfurt. The pic- 
 ture galleries, both at Aachen and at 
 Cologne, I found small compared with 
 several that 1 have since seen, but thwy 
 are each a credit to their city and con- 
 tain some excellent pictures. I think I 
 
especially mentioned Richter's famons 
 picture of Qneen Louise, which is in 
 the Cologne gallery. All over Germany 
 I foond copies of it, and in Berlin and 
 Potsdam I saw many other portraits, 
 
 both painted and sculptured, represent- 
 ing the ill-fated qneen, so I took a care- 
 fnl second look at this well-known pic- 
 ture. Of its beauty and artistic merit 
 there can be little qnestion, but I found 
 that the artist had painted not a Prus- 
 sian queen but a goddess. 
 
 Even guide books occasionally con- 
 tain fragment of humor lost, strayed 
 or stolen. The instance I am going to 
 I mention is a part of a sentence in which 
 I Baedeker describes the 'Aachen cathe- 
 ! dral, which came to my notice at my 
 i first visit there. My friend, with stub- 
 born persistence, refused to i?ee any hu- 
 mor in it. Finally, when we mot in 
 L epsic in October 1 read the sentence 
 aloud to some American friends and 
 produced shouts of laughter. My 
 friend still persisted in hia lack of hu- 
 mor, so I dared him to read the sen- 
 tence in such a way that we would not 
 be compelled to laugh. He declined the 
 challenge, so I suppose there is enough 
 chance for a laugh to make the ser>- 
 ten- 1 e worth quoting: "The portion ^t 
 the cathedral) erected by Charlemagne 
 is an octagon copied from San Vitale 
 at Ravenna, and built by Master Odo, 
 48 feet in d ; ameter, surrounded by a six- 
 teen-sided ambulatory, and terminating 
 in a cupola 104 feet high." Street 
 names are frequently curious, especially 
 those of little streets and alleys in t'he 
 old parts of the towns. Here are some 
 that may be seen during a five minutes' 
 wnlk iaCologne, "Under God's Mercy," 
 4 'Under the He t- maker," "In the Cave," 
 "Cow Alley," and "Under the Fat 
 Hens." 
 
 Thanksgiving day is not on tht 
 French or the German calendar so I 
 had no Thanksgiving dinner, properly 
 so-called. I spent the American holiday 
 in Paris, but the day before I was on my 
 journey from Cologre to Paris and hap- 
 pened to be in Aachen at the dinner 
 hour. Treasuring np a kindly memory 
 
of former dinners at the "King of Spain" 
 I went around to see if h still contin- 
 ued his royal munificence in midday 
 meals. I was not disappointed, for I 
 enjoyed a hearty meal which, for this 
 year, I think I shall Consider my Thanks- 
 giving dinner. 
 
 So much by way of interlude, while 
 lam picking tip the thread of my narra- 
 tive which I dropped seven weeks ago. 
 Yon may recall that on Wednepday, 
 August 8, my friend and I tarried so 
 long at the feast that we iniaeed the 1 
 o'clock boat from Cologne and had to 
 wait for the one at 3 Thla time we were 
 on band at the appointed hour and suc- 
 ceeded in reaching Bonn, some twenty 
 odd miles up the river, in somewhat 
 more than the > chednled time of two nd 
 three quarters hours At Ithaca thera is 
 a certain very ordinary and uninterest- 
 ing stream known officially as the Cay- 
 uga Lake Inlet, but more popularly as 
 the Rhine. The appropriateness of the 
 name I never doubted, but jast how it 
 happened I never understood till I saw 
 the original Rhine from Cologne to 
 Bonn. Then it was that I realized the 
 exquu-itebeautyofatrugid stream flow- 
 ing with many a useless bend and turn 
 between low banks dotted with grace- 
 ful smokestacks which rise to a dizzy 
 height, lending to the landscape a 
 grandeur which must be seen on a day 
 of excessive humidity in order to be 
 thoroughly appreciated. Never before 
 did I so thoroughly realize the blessings 
 that nature and man had bestowed upon 
 Ithaca in giving her a Rhine of her 
 own. Moral: If you want to enjoy the 
 Rhine don't take the boat from Cologne 
 to Bonn. For a long distance from Co- 
 logne, the spires of the cathedral are the 
 one delightful feature of the landscape, 
 and it is with a feeling of real regret 
 that one at last sees them become min- 
 gled with the ever present brick chim- 
 nies and thus become lost to view. As 
 one approaches Bonn the landscape takes 
 on a more cheery and varied aspect 
 and is landed in a happy state of mind 
 in spite of himself. We had one spec- 
 tacle, not down on the schedule. A very 
 severe storm with thunder and light- 
 
ning followed ns tip the river and at 
 last broke upon ns, though we were for- 
 tunate enough to be just on the edge of 
 it. The sight was a beautiful and im- 
 
 Eressive one, in spite of the humble 
 indecape. 
 
 I suppose it behooves me to say a few 
 words about the boats on the Rhine. 
 The Rhine is not in America, so the 
 service is not perfect as it is in Ger- 
 many we will call it excellent. There 
 are two lines of passenger steamers, with 
 boats plying "between Rotterdam and 
 Mannheim, the principal one known aa 
 the-Du?Feldorf, the other as the Nether 
 lands. The latter has fewer boats and 
 is far less pretentious and not to be de- 
 pended npon to ran on scheduled time, 
 but for the traveller who is not in a hurry, 
 the boats are less crowded and the fare 
 is cheaper. The Dusseklorf Line, which 
 aloo finds trouble in keeping within 
 hailing distance of its schedule, has two 
 miin classes of bats; the express 
 steamers, which run only between Co- 
 logne and Mayence and make stops at 
 only a few of the largest places; and the 
 other steamers which correspond to ac- 
 commodation trains, which only run be- 
 tween the terminals of the divisions and 
 make ail the way stops. The express 
 steamers are in every way better boats 
 and may be compared with the Hudson 
 and St. Lawrence steamers, with the ad- 
 vantage, I believe, in favor of the Amer 
 ican boats. These steamers are always 
 crowded, their best patrons being the 
 tourist companies, like Cook's, who take 
 their patrons through Europe on a trot 
 and so only have one day for the whole 
 of the Rhine. The traveller who wants 
 to do the Rhine in a somewhat rnor<5 
 reasonable and deliberate manner will 
 find the second class of steamers, which 
 are not much inferior in their accom- 
 modations, much n/ore to his liking, 
 for they are never crowded, and, as they 
 are not quite so f ?' u as the express 
 steamers, they afford a better opportu- 
 nity to appreciate the oenery. Then, too, 
 there is that far mort important consid- 
 eration, they are cheaper. At all the prin- 
 cipal places the steamers have regular 
 wuarves, but at some of the little way 
 
stations passengers are conveyed to and 
 from the steamer in awkward looking 
 rowboats. The current of the Rhine, 
 by the way, is so rapid that rowboats 
 for pleasure are a very rare sight, at 
 least so far as I saw the river. 
 
 Bonn, like Cologne, dates from 
 Roman times, and was a R,oman mili- 
 tary camp nineteen centimes ago. It 
 owes its existence down to the present 
 C3ntary, to those cententioas ministers of 
 the gospel of peace and goodwill, the 
 archbishops of Cologne. These good 
 shepherds were given to understand by 
 their flocks, that the welfare of their 
 flocks would be better subserved if the 
 shepherds did not live with them, so 
 the benevolent gentlemen moved their 
 residence up the river to the quiet, long- 
 forgotten little town of Bonn, From 
 the arrival of the first of these dignita- 
 ries, about the middle of the thirteenth 
 century, till the last of them WFS driv- 
 en out by the French at the close of the 
 eighteenth, the history of Bonn is that 
 of the archbishops of Cologne. After 
 being thoroughly shuffled by theFrench, 
 the German cards were finally dealt 
 in 1815 and Bonn fell to Prussia. Since 
 that time prosperity has smiled on the 
 town which has increased in population 
 from 7,500 to 50,000. The city and its 
 vicinity have become a favorite place of 
 resort and residence for English visit- 
 ors, and also for wealthy Germans from 
 the great commercial towns near the 
 North Sea. The old town has the pro- 
 verbial narrow, crooked streets one of 
 them is called the Mouse Path and is 
 rather dreary but the new parts of the 
 town have beautiful wide streets with 
 nice residences, and that comparatively 
 rare thing for Gemany, dooryards with 
 flowers. TheUniversityof Bonn is a nino- 
 teenth century creation, though there did 
 exist an older university for a few years 
 at the close of the eightheeuth century, 
 and though the dingy old buildings now 
 occupied by the university belong large- 
 ly to the eighteenth century when they 
 formed the residence of the archbishop 
 of Cologne, At present the University 
 has about 2,000 students and boasts of a 
 splendid library of a quarter of a mil- 
 

lion volumes. Added prestige cornes to 
 the university f rom the patronage of the 
 Prussian royal family. The father of 
 the present Kaiser was educated there, 
 and now preparations are being made 
 for the young Crown Prince, who is ex- 
 pected to enter this year. As a univer- 
 sity town Bonn has been the home of 
 some of the most famons German schol- 
 ars of the present century scholars, 
 however, whose names are known to 
 few Americans except those who are de- 
 voted to the same line of study. For 
 just one thing is Bonn known to the 
 American of average intelligence. It 
 was the birthplace of Beethoven. The 
 house where he was born in 1770 is pre- 
 served and contains a museum of crri- 
 osities relating to hie life. 
 
 [CONTINUED NEXT WEEK. 
 
 OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, JANUARY 31, 1901. 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 G orge M. Duf chor Writes Another Inter- 
 esting: tetter. 
 
 PARIS, December 5, 1900. 
 My Dear Sir: 
 
 The city itself contains little that 
 will interest the casual visitor. The 
 old market place, with its fomitain and 
 surrounding buildings, and with its 
 throng of market women with their 
 fruits and vegetables, and with the 
 hcnsewives and maids with their little 
 haudbas-kets selecting the various 
 articles for their day's meals, added 
 to the constant traffic of the busiest 
 joint of the town, presented to our eyes 
 the most vivid picture of the sort that 
 we have seen Close by is the one 
 building of real interest which the 
 town possesses, the cathedral. The 
 building has been the growth of the 
 past eignt centuries, though there seems 
 to have been a church on the same. spot 
 for acme eight centuries previous to the 
 beginning of the present structure. So 
 thoroughly has the Imildiug been re- 
 
stored during the last few years, one 
 would fain believe it now, especially 
 when one Bees the attractive interior 
 adornt d with modern mural painting 
 and stained glass The ancient clois 
 ters adjoining the, cathedral, however, 
 look jnst as they have for seven centu- 
 ries past and probably will for centuries 
 to come. The city possesses several oth- 
 er churches, but none of special inter- 
 est. The new iron bridge across the 
 Rhine, with its fantastic decorations, is 
 the pride of the town, At the end of 
 the bridge is a monument of Julius 
 Cassar, erected at this point, not be- 
 cause he built his infamous bridge- 
 that terror of our youthful days across 
 the Rhine at this point, bnt-b^cause he 
 didn't. You ask me, "Why?" I can 
 only answer, "That's the German of it." 
 In the good old times, Bonn was forti 
 tied, for that was the fashion then. The 
 fashion having changed, the ancient 
 bulwarks have been removed, with the 
 exception of a bit on the river bank, 
 which has been formed into a little park 
 about a hundred feet directly above the 
 river's edge The Alte Z;>11, as this is 
 called, affords a beautiful view, and the 
 site for a statute of Ernest Maurice 
 Arnett, one oi Bonn's favorite s ^ns. B :mn 
 possesses one other monument to a 
 favorite son Beethoven, which was 
 unveiled fifty- five years ago by Qneen 
 Viet oria. 
 
 To live with one's windows looking 
 out upon the Rhine, is a thing that I 
 have dreamed of as one of those bits of 
 far off blessedness that seemed impossi- 
 ble of actual fulfilment, bnt here at 
 Bonn the genial proprietor of the Hotel 
 Dig^mann gave UH a room having a de- 
 l'ght f ul outlook upon the Rhine, aud as 
 we sat at our evening meal in the 
 restaurant we could look out of the win 
 uow beside us an'd watch the erai't ply- 
 ing up and down the river, arid the peo- 
 ple passing along the quay or across the 
 great bridge The annual value of the 
 trade carried on by the Rhine boats 
 must reach a very large figure. Tie 
 boats engaged in the trade may be di- 
 vided into three groups: first, the freight 
 steamers of the two large transportation 
 
companies already mentioned as con- 
 trolling the passenger traffic; the sec- 
 ond and most important class are the 
 canal boats of which great numbers are 
 towed np and down the river by tugs 
 belonging to a few large companies lo- 
 cat-d chit fly along the lower course of 
 the Rhine; thirdly, the local boats and 
 the odd tramp steamers. These local 
 bqata frequently carry both passengers 
 am freight, and their chief business 
 seems to be to supply the markets of the 
 larger towns along the river. Thus, at 
 Bonn, we were awakened in the morn- 
 ing by the voices of many women chat- 
 tering telow our window. Ou looking 
 out, we discovered that the landing 
 place of one of these lines of local steam 
 ers, whose headquarters were at Bonn, 
 was directly in front of our hotol, and 
 that a cargo of market-women with 
 their fruits and vegetables had jast 
 been landed. 
 
 Here at Bonn, and at other places 
 along the Rhine, we were constantly re- 
 minded of the President of Cornell Uni- 
 versity, aa a firm bearing his family 
 name was the owner of one of the lines 
 of tngs rof-ntiomd above; and another 
 member of the family was the inventor 
 of a patent door closer in frequent use. 
 Throughout Germany the use of a door- 
 closing device is far more general than 
 with us. The familiar door-knob of the 
 United States is conspicuous by its ab 
 sence, but is replaced by a device oc- 
 casionally to ba seen in the United 
 States, an instance being the door hand- 
 les and latches of the stores in the Hook 
 er block in Owego. Germany is the 
 home of mammoth door keys to need- 
 lessly bulky locks Snap locks are not 
 frequent and the luxury of a Yale I'-ck 
 with a dainty little key is something 
 yet te be dreamed of in Germany. To 
 enter your house in Germany late at 
 night, a single quarter turn of tbe 
 key and a slain of the door is not 
 sufficient: you must turn the key com- 
 pletely around in the lock twice 
 and often three times, and when 
 you get inside you must again find the 
 keyhole in a darkness somewhat like 
 Egypt, then wait for the patent device 
 
to close the door (sixty seconds) and then 
 an equal number of turns ef the key to 
 lock the door. May the twentieth cen- 
 tury convince our Teutonic friends of 
 the merit of the Yale lock and key. One 
 more oddment should be told here 
 Beefsteak and roast beef seem to be terms 
 known the world over, though the spell- 
 ing and prononnciation may vary a little. 
 To call for either is a sure mark of Eng- 
 lish or American origin, and the price 
 is high accordingly. At the Dissinann 
 we called as usual for beefsteak, at one 
 mark fifty pfenings; the genial host was 
 standing near by and came over and 
 said: "Say, you young fellows, you bet- 
 ter take rump steak, you will get better 
 meat and it will only cost you one 
 mark." We profited by that bit of in- 
 formation during the rest of our stay ia 
 Germany. 
 
 The delightf alness of the vicinity of 
 Bonn is testified by the fact I have al- 
 ready mentioned, that it is a favorite 
 place of summer residence not only for 
 the well-to do merchants further down 
 thelihine, but even for many English peo 
 pie as well. We spent two days in long 
 walks through these delightful scenes 
 The first day we went up through the , 
 town till we reached a broad, beauti- 
 fully shaded boulevard lined with splen- 
 did residences. This boulevard leading, 
 straight back from the river, we follow- 
 ed till we reached an old chateau, once 
 a summer residence of the Archbishop 
 of Cologne. There we took to the hills 
 from which we obtained a beautiful 
 view of the city and its environs. One 
 of these hills is crowned by a chapel 
 also built by an Archbishop of Cologne 
 Along the road to the chapel are the 
 stations of the cross, and in the chapel 
 itself there is a sacred staircase, which 
 may only be ascended by the devout 
 and upon the knees. B rom this chapel 
 w'e struck further back from the river and 
 then crossed a little valley and through 
 woodland paths till we came out once 
 more on the crest of the hills parallel 
 to the Rhine and some distance above 
 Bonn. At this point the daily shower 
 overtook us. A lookout tower in the 
 neighborhood, known as the Bismark 
 
Tower, furnished us a place of refuge. 
 The aged warden of the tower entertain- 
 ed us with his tale of woe which may 
 or may not have been within forty miles 
 of the truth, and with his lemonade 
 which certainly had never been within 
 forty miles of a lemon, and was, more- 
 over, of a color that suggested Diamond 
 Dyes rather than something more natu- 
 ral. After a time the rain abated suffi- 
 ciently fcr us to take onr leave of the 
 ancient worthy, who in the more roman- 
 tic days of the long ago would nave 
 been called a gnome, and about him 
 would have been wovc-n many a weird 
 and mystic tale to terrify the naughty 
 children or delight the good ones of the 
 town over which his tower stood as a 
 sentinel. One old gnome gave us onr 
 directions, as many a less romantic 
 German has in the more recent days of 
 our wanderings, ' Oeradeaus immer 
 links. Straight ahead and keep to the 
 left." A fondness for these two phrases, 
 which drop off a German's tongue so 
 easily frequently confuses his notions of 
 veracity and geography, so that it is 
 necessary to assure one's self that the 
 first turn isn't to the right. However 
 this veteran spiait of the woodland and 
 the tower had told us correctly, though 
 for a long,long while we were in serious 
 doubt. A tramp of some miles by paths 
 more or less sylvan at last brought us in 
 full view of the town and ancient ruins 
 of the castle of Godesberg, picturesquely 
 crowning the summit of an isolated hill 
 overlooking the town. The clouds still 
 hung heavy, arid the darkness was com- 
 ing on, so we hastened directly to the 
 depot and were glad to find that in a 
 few moments a train would return us 
 to Bonn. 
 
 On the morrow we went to vitit one 
 of the places sacred to legend and poetry. 
 
 As one looks up the Rhine from Co- 
 logne, he can, on a clear day, discern 
 pome twenty-five miles away, seven 
 peaks, which have given the name of 
 the Seven Mountains to a group of about 
 thirty hills five miles above Bonn on 
 the opposite (east) bank of the river. 
 The most famous of the hills is one of 
 
the smallest, bnt the most picturesque, 
 for it is the only one to rise direct from 
 the river's edge. Of course, one of those 
 charming gentlemen of the Middle Ages, 
 an archbiship of Cologne, conld not 
 overlook this delightful vantage point 
 from which to practice the Christian vir- 
 tues referred to in the sixth, eigtb, and 
 tei-th commandments. So unselfish 
 were these good archbishops, that they 
 were willing to share this splendid op 
 portnnity for leading a better life, with 
 certain noble persons known in poetry 
 as robber barons bnt in history as counts 
 of Drachenfels for such was the name 
 legend had given this hills and castle. 
 The counts and the archbishops have 
 departed, but still stands the ruin of 
 their ar.cieut castle keeping silent watch 
 over the vineyards on the hill slope, the 
 quiet towns at the foot, and the great 
 river with its constantly passing boats. 
 The beauty of the scene commanded 
 by the castle has be n made famous for 
 all time by those beautiful verses in 
 "Child's Harold." 
 
 [CONTINUED NEXT WEEK. 
 
 OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 1901. 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Du< cher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting Letter. 
 
 [CONCLUED THIS WEEK ] 
 
 We left Bonn by steamer soon after 9 
 o'clock and in about an hour reached 
 Konigswinter, a little town at the foot 
 of the Drachenfels, from whence the 
 ascent to the castle was made easy for 
 the practical traveller by an unromantic 
 cog-wheel railroad. Although I saw 
 the Drachenfels on a dark, cloudy day, 
 I think I can safely say that it is one of 
 the places that do not disappoint one, 
 though the ruins are exceedingly mea- 
 ger compared with what one expects to 
 find The absurd is forever impressing 
 
itself upon my mind in improper places, 
 and so it was at the Drachenfels. In 
 ascending from the lookout by the inev- 
 itable hotel, to the castle, my attention 
 was attracted by the attire of a German 
 woman ahead of me. The article that 
 appeared so curious I discovered was a 
 long skirt which was converted into a 
 short walking-skirt by means of a num- 
 ber of little elastic affairs, such as men 
 wear to shorten their shirt sleeves, one 
 end of each elastic band was made fast 
 about the waist, while the clasp at the 
 other end used its teeth to catch the 
 skirt and hold it at the desired height. 
 This device, whose novelty startled me, 
 I later discovered in frequent use 
 though sometimes with a slight varia 
 tion, the elastic band and clasp being 
 replaced by a cloth strap and button so 
 that the skirt was held up in some- 
 what the eame fashion as the curtain at 
 the back of a buggy top. The notion of 
 taking six inches off of the length of the 
 skirt is an American innovation which 
 would shock the German woman and is 
 not to be thought of by her for at least 
 a generation yet. 
 
 Well, as I was saying, the Drachenfels 
 met with my hearty approval if the 
 dragon's skirt did not. That is a very 
 wicked pun. Dracheiifels, as yon know, 
 means dragon's rock, and down the side 
 of the hill we can ftill see the hole which 
 the dragon if there ever was one in- 
 habited until the renowned Siegfried ex- 
 terminated him After lingering as 
 long as we dared in the dragon's hunt- 
 ing grounds, we set out to see some of 
 the other seven mountains. Going di- 
 rectly back from the river along the 
 slope of two of the hills, and over the 
 summit of a third (the Lohrberg) we en- 
 tered a beautiful valley. Following the 
 instinct of hunger we came to two 
 prettily located little hotels and stopped 
 at one for repairs. .With feelings im- 
 proved by a good dinner we were ready 
 tor the ascent of the highest of the Sev- 
 en Mountains, the Gross Oelberg, litei al- 
 ly the Great Mount of Olives. This 
 was a wearisome and not altogether 
 profitable adventure, for the view, 
 taough fine, added little to what we had 
 
already se0n from other points. A clear 
 day would undoubtedly have revealed 
 a more pleasing panorama. A single 
 little shanty for the sale of beer, sand- 
 wichs and souvenir postal cards, is all 
 that graces the summit of the moun- 
 tain. We descended rapidly and after 
 a long walk reached and ascended the 
 Petrusberg, for us the fourth and last 
 <if the Seven Mountains. Like the 
 Drachenfels, the Petrnsberg has certain 
 adjuncts of civilization, such as a hotel 
 and a cog-wheel railroad. Near the 
 summit a path leads aronnd the hill to 
 lookouts which affords pretty views in 
 various directions. The Petrusberg, 
 like many of the other hills of the group, 
 is the sight of extensive quarries, yield- 
 ing basalt And other stoue, which ia 
 shipped to the lower Rhine for various 
 uses, especially the construction of 
 dykes. In the valley of the little brook 
 at the foot of the Petrusberg are the 
 ruins of the ancient abbey of Heister- 
 bach. The buildings of the old abbey 
 were mostly removed about a century 
 ago, but ihe gate and a bit of the choir 
 of the church still remain. Near the 
 latter, there has lately been erected a 
 memorial of one of the monks of seven 
 Hundred years ago; a certain Caesarius 
 of Heisterbach who wrote some chroni- 
 cles which might have served as a text- 
 book for Boccaccio, apart from their 
 more prosaic value as historical ma- 
 terial regarding the life of the time. 
 From Heisterbach, another tramp 
 brought us to the railway station of 
 Neider-Dollendorf, whence a train car- 
 ried us in a few minutes to Beuel and 
 thence a short walk across the Rhino 
 bridge brought us back to Bonn again 
 at dusk. 
 
 One final word and then I am done 
 with the Seven Mountains, or Siebenge- 
 birge, to use the German word. Apart 
 frt/m similar scattered bits of mountain 
 scenery Germany is an uninteresting 
 country as far as landscape goes, except in 
 extreme Southern Germany where the 
 foothills of the Alps afford much that is 
 delightful. Each of these bits of moun- 
 tain scenery is made thoroughly acces- 
 sible by means of good roads and good i 
 
footpaths with sign boards to direct the 
 traveller, and every year brings hosts of 
 Germans and many foreigners to see 
 these places whose beauty has been her- 
 alded abroad and whose legends have 
 delighted the children of many a land. 
 But let me whisper it quietly, the Unit 
 ed States posseses many and many a 
 spot which with similar roads and paths 
 and a small amonnt of booming wonld 
 eoon acquire as high a reputation for 
 beauiif ni scenery, and as for the legends, 
 almost anybody could invent a suffi- 
 cient quantity of years that would serve 
 for the lack of the genuine article. The 
 White Mountains of New Hampshire 
 and the Catskills of New York are, to 
 the best of my knowledge, the only 
 things American that at present meet 
 the German ideal but no, they lack 
 the ruined castles. Let some noble ho- 
 tel keeper arise and build ns some gen 
 nine old American rains, or, at least, 
 the ruins of Hendrick Hudson's bowl 
 ing alley or Rip Van Winkle's bedstead 
 might be discovered and exhibited to 
 the gullible public. 
 
 Our third nigbt in Bonn passed and 
 the third morning arrived, but with a 
 sorry prospect for rny friend who was 
 still waiting for twenty-four hours 
 without rain so that it would be dry 
 enough to ride his wheel. Accordingly 
 we gathered together our earthly pos 
 sessions and the wheel, and embarked 
 for Coblenz at 9:30. As soon as we 
 were afloat the weather put on a happier 
 countenance and we had a pleasant voy 
 age. The boat was one of the Netherlands 
 Line, and during a tour of inspection, I 
 discovered in one of her cabins a picture 
 which showed that even the Hollander 
 can appreciate a good thing then gh it be a 
 vessel in the American navy. This high 
 honor was awarded to the Oregon. The 
 passengers came in for their share of in 
 spection, My friend was desirous of 
 learning German, but I was not, so I at- 
 tempted to bury myself in a book, when 
 the landscape did not demand attention, 
 and I ordered him off to find a German 
 Fraulein and practice the barbarous dia- 
 lect, which he was desirous of master- 
 ing. Instead of showing the proper spirit 
 
in this matter, my friend tried to imi- 
 tate me, to which I objected, so I set, oat 
 in search of the Fraulein. I did not have 
 to search far. She was an ideal Franlein, 
 neither spoiled with good looks, nor yet 
 with the lack of them. She wan neatly 
 attired in a black bicycle suit with, won- 
 der of wonders, a short skirt. She spoke 
 with snapping black eyes and a clear, 
 resonant voice which could be heard at 
 a reasonable distance. Her manner of 
 speech made it necessary for her to be 
 precise and correct in her pronuncia- 
 tion so that she was in every way ad- 
 mirably fitted for a teacher, especially 
 as she was able and willing to talk in- 
 cessantly. I offered to introduce my 
 friend, but his retiring disposition to- 
 gether with his bashfnlness led him to 
 decline the honor, so I stationed him in 
 the neighborhood of the Fraulein and 
 waved to her to talk on, which she did. 
 I went back to my book in peace. My 
 friend assures me that he only listened 
 to the flow of language and that he did 
 cot attempt to interrupt it with honey- 
 ed words of his own composition, and I 
 have reason to believe that he told the 
 truth for by-and by the fraulein disem- 
 barked, mounted her wheel, and was 
 gone, without a single farewell glance 
 at her admiring pupil. Thus were my 
 best laid plans brought to naught. 
 
 Between Bonn and Coblenz the Rhine 
 offers several very pretty bits of scenery. 
 The first is the Drachenfels, of which 
 we obtained new and pleasing views. 
 A little further up the river two islands 
 are passed. One of them,Noun<mwerth, 
 was for many centuries occupied by a 
 nunnery. High up on the bank of the 
 river, opposite the island, is an old ruin, 
 a single arch, all that remains of an an- 
 cient castle, said to have been built by 
 Roland, and known as Roland's Arch. 
 The story goes that Charlemagne's fam 
 ous knight, Roland fell in love with 
 a daughter of the Count of Dachen- 
 fels, but before the maarriage could 
 take place he was summoned to go on 
 one of the king's many campaigns. His 
 absence was prolonged far beyond the 
 expected time and rumor came that 
 Roland was dead. His lady-love 
 
was inconsolable and resolved to end 
 her days in the nunnery on the neigh- 
 boring island. After a long time Ro- 
 land returned to claim his bride, but 
 found she was forever lost to him be- 
 cause of her vows as a nun. Roland 
 then built this castle on the hill over- 
 looking the island, from which he could 
 catch occasional glimpses of her he loved. 
 One day he failed to see her as usual, 
 then he saw a burial and knew that she 
 was no more. Roland, like a true knight, 
 pined away and died soon after. Such 
 is the legend. As for the castle, it has 
 been a ruin for so many centuries that 
 the memory and records of man run 
 not to the contrary. For present day 
 purposes, suffice it to say, that Rolan- 
 dseck is one of the most delightful local- 
 ities along the Rhine The rest of the way 
 to Coblenz, one finds now on one bank. 
 now on the other, some prettily situated 
 little town, or once in a while, a bit of 
 an old ruin, though they are far scarcer 
 than one would fain believe. Remogen 
 is, perhaps, the only other place worth 
 mentioning by name It is a favorite 
 resort and a convenient starting point 
 for some pleasant excursions. Conspic- 
 uously located on the bill above the 
 place is the modern church of St. Apol- 
 linaris who is said to have been a bishop 
 of Ravenna, and whoee head is said to 
 be in the church. For centuries pil- 
 grimages have been made to this local- 
 ity to visit the relics of the saint, which 
 were preserved in an ancient chapel un- 
 til the present church was built. At 
 Remagen is the head office of the Apol- 
 linaris Company Limited, but the spring 
 which furnishes this famous water is a 
 few miles distant. Oddly enough this 
 water which can be obtained in almost 
 any part of the civilized world is almost 
 impossible to get in the neighborhood 
 Later in the hotel at Coblenz I remarked 
 this fact. They replied that it could 
 easily be had for the asking any where 
 I promptly ordered a Vo!;tle and met the 
 usual reply that it was j*et in stock. 
 Andemach I will mention later, for we 
 visited it from Coblenz. It is a little 
 less than forty miles from Bonn to Cob- 
 lenz where we arrived after a four or 
 five hours' ride. That is another story. 
 
 Vny Tnly yours, 
 GEORGE M. DUTCHER. 
 
O iv EGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 1901. 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Du*cher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting tetter. 
 
 PARIS, December, 27, 1900. 
 My Dear Sir: 
 
 It was about 3 o'cloc k on the afternoon 
 of Saturday, August 11, when we found 
 ourselves located in Coblenz at the Ho- 
 tel Springer which oar good host in 
 Bonn had recommended to us. We 
 found bnr new host to be a large Ger- 
 man of forty years, with pleasant ruan- 
 nersbut lack ing the genial interest in his 
 guests wbich so delighted us with our 
 host at Bonn. Tne "man of the h 
 was really the wife, a pretty little Eng- 
 lish blonde, who took a mnch more ac- 
 tive interest in the management of the 
 hotel than did her husband. We nego- 
 tiated successfully for a room and a 
 light breakfast of coiiee and rolls at a 
 reasonable rate, and then went to ihe 
 dining-room to appease our appetite, 
 which regarded a three hours' post- 
 ponement of dinner as quite unreason- 
 able. Oar appetites were appeased 
 but cm- pocket-books were aronsed 
 thereby, so that in the future we gener- 
 ally found it much more agreeable to 
 our parses and nolesasoto our appetites 
 to take our midday and evening meals 
 at a little hotel restaurant not far away, ! 
 known as the Maiwald. This was a 
 very rude, ill-mannered thing to 
 veritable treason in the eye* of land- 
 lords, which in mai^y places is pnmshvd 
 by an addition of from twenty-five to 
 fifty per cent, to the price of ths rocii'S. 
 bnt Herr Springer allowed our breach 
 of etiquette to pas-snnrioticed. 
 
 "Beautiful for situation" is the popu 
 lar verdict in regard to Coblenz. and it 
 was and is a keen disappointment to 
 me, not to be able to give the verdict 
 my unqualified endorsement, for I fee! 
 "bat it would be the rigfct thing-to do 
 
I suppose that I had my notions too 
 high and that I did not get ov^r the dis- 
 appointment i.-f not finding them real- 
 ized; and I have a puspiciori that were 
 I to revisit the place I si on d find my- 
 self an enthusiastic admirer of its beau- 
 ties. The city is sitnated on the south- 
 western and smaller angle formed by 
 the junction of the Moselle (in German, 
 Mosel) with the Rhine. This corner of 
 land occupied by the city is nearly level 
 arid I should think, never more than 
 fifty feet above the normal water-level, 
 bm to the southwest the hills rise to the 
 height of several hundred feet leaving 
 but a narrow strip of low land along 
 rhe bank of each river. On the north 
 bank of the Moselle are the two sub- 
 urbs of Lulzei- Cobles z and Neuendorf. 
 Directiy opposite the mouth of the Mo- 
 dtlle, on the east bank of the Rhine 
 rites abruptly a hill crowned by the 
 fortress of Ebrenbreitstein. while the 
 town of that name tucks itself away in a 
 little valley at the loot of the hill At 
 the base of- the Astersteir, the next hill 
 to the south of Ehrenbreitstein. and ex- 
 tending along the Rhine is the suburbof 
 Pfaffendcrf . A mile and a half further up 
 the east bank of the Rhine isHorcbheim 
 aitd about two miles beyond that town, 
 the pretty little river Lahn empties into 
 the Rhine between the little villages of 
 Nieder Labnstein aad Ober Lahnstein. 
 So much for the geography which ha^ 
 caused the little history that the city 
 has to its credit. The n?ime of the town 
 is a cnrrnplion of the latin word Con 
 fiat-Hies, the Confidence or Junction, the 
 name given to the Roman settlement 
 at junction of the Moselle and the 
 Rhino. The town survived through 
 centuries with a tale of peace and pros- 
 perity mingled with wars and sieges, 
 not very nnlike that of other towns of 
 the Rhineland. It was not, however, 
 until a few years before the outbreak of 
 the French Revolution, that Coblenz 
 outgrew the little town stretching along 
 the bank of the Moselle. The last 
 Elector- Archbishop of Treves selected 
 Coblerz as his residence, atd erected a 
 a large palace on the bank of the Rhine 
 three quarters of a mile above 
 
the month of "the Mczelle. The land to 
 >rth and west, between his palace 
 and the old town, he laid ont in regular 
 blocks with wide streets. The days of 
 prosperity were soon numbered, and 
 OobJenz, like Bonn and Cologne, passed 
 a score of years under French rule be- 
 fore becoming permanently incorporated 
 into the kingdom of Prussia During 
 the fifties, Prince William, of Prussia, 
 afterwards the G-erman Emperor, occu- 
 pied the old electoral palace while act- 
 ing as military governor of the province 
 His wife, afterwards the Empress Au 
 gusta regularly resided here a part of 
 <aoh spring and autarnn and took an 
 active interest in the prosperity of the 
 town until her death in 1870. 
 
 Some one with a keen sense of the fit- 
 n 'PS of things, conceived the happy idea 
 of erecting, on the little low-lying point 
 of land just at the continence of the two 
 great rivers of western Germany, a mas- 
 sive memorial to the fl.-st German Em- 
 peror, especially as the old kaiser had 
 frequently resided in the vicinity. The 
 land on the point was all raised to the 
 the same level and made secure by mas- 
 sive stone embankments along both the 
 Rhine and the Moeelle. On the little 
 plain two or three hundred feet back 
 from the point, rises the massive stone 
 foundation supporting the pedeatal, on 
 . which is placed the colossal equestrian 
 statue of the Emperor, accompanied by 
 a fecaale figure offering him tl e laurel- 
 wreathed imperial crown. The impos- 
 ing size of the whole may be imagined 
 from the height of this latter figure, 
 which is thirty feet, while tba<" of the 
 Emperor is forty- five feet. Baedeker 
 says, "This is one of the most impres- 
 sive purely personal monuments in the 
 world, and dominates the landscape in 
 all direction;'' and Baedeker knows. 
 The massiveness and simplicity of the 
 monument added to the wonderful ap- 
 propriatene^s and charm of its situa- 
 tion make it one of the things that 
 stand out c'early in one's mind, after 
 many another thing of perhaps even 
 greater merit and iujp >rtance has been 
 lost iu the general haise of things seen. 
 
Back of this noble memorial to the 
 venerable Kaiser, there extends along 
 the b*nk of the Rhine as far as the pal- 
 ace, the broad and bnsy qnay which is 
 continued for at least a mile and a half 
 southward by the delightfnl Rhine 
 Promenade, laid out nnder the direction 
 of the Empress Augusta, in whose hon- 
 or a monument in white marble has 
 HI ace been erected. Another monument 
 ivcalis the enthusiastic welcome accord- 
 ed by the people of Coblenz to King 
 William and Qieen Aqgusta immediate- 
 ly hf ;.er the oeclaration of war in July. 
 1870. On some of the buildings along 
 the quay are records of high water the 
 highest and oldest of which dates back 
 jaat250 years. West of the promenade 
 and south of the old town has grown up 
 in recent years a large, well-built resi- 
 dential quarter. This beautiful public 
 walk along the Rhine and the fine resi- 
 dences adjoining, have few rivals in 
 Germany for beauty of situation and 
 attractiveness of surroundings. There 
 are here a large number of residences 
 occupied by single families a thing 
 in itself unusual and a mark of luxury; 
 but this is not all, that other American 
 luxury, a door yard, surrounds the 
 house, adding the fragrance of the rose 
 to the delights of the eye. Each yard is 
 separated from its neighbors and from 
 the street by a high fence of stone and 
 iron. The doorlell is on the post of the 
 front gate, and is usually accompanied 
 by the neat little sign. ''Beggars and 
 agents not admitted Apparently 
 America is not the only country ac 
 quainted with the woes and tribula- 
 tions of the book agent and the light- 
 ning-rod man not to mention that other 
 jjuight of the road, who is dignified with 
 the splendid name of tramp. 
 
 The chief relics of former centuries 
 are, of course, in the narrow, crooked 
 streets of the old town along the Mo- 
 selle, and include two churches of the 
 twefth century, one of the fifteenth, 
 and a few other buildings of no great 
 importance. Of the eighteenth century, 
 the most important survival is the pal- 
 ace which was completed in 1786, and 
 occupied for eight years by the Elector 
 
of Treves; and later, in the nineteenth 
 century at various times between 1850 
 and 1890 the home of the old Kaiser and 
 his wife. Besides the monuments al- 
 ready mentioned, there are several oth- 
 ers, of which the most important is that 
 to General von G-oeben, one of the lead- 
 ers in the Franco-German war of 1870, 
 who died while commandant at Cob- 
 -Jenz. A more interesting monument is 
 one, erected in 1812, by the last French 
 prefect to commemorate Napoleon's 
 Russian campaign in 1812, which re- 
 ceived this added inscription a little 
 over a year later, "Seen and approved 
 by the Russian commandant of the city 
 of Coblenz on January 1, 1814 " Bridges 
 are the only other sights which Coblenz 
 affords. Of these, the oldest by several 
 centuries is the highway bridge across 
 the Moselle. The second Moselle bridge 
 is used by the railroad, as is also the 
 uppermost of the Rhine bridges, which 
 is at the end of the Rhine Promenade, 
 and leads to Horchheim on the east 
 bank. The other two also across the 
 Rhine, the bridge of boats to Ehren- 
 breitstein, and the former railroad 
 bridge now used for the highway to 
 Pfaffendorf. The bridge of boats is 
 picturesque and interesting to Ameri- 
 can eyes, but the others in stone and 
 iron are splendid and durable monu- 
 ments of the bridge builder's art. 
 
 This elaborate description of the few 
 attractions of Coblenz will undoubtedly 
 make you wonder why I should have 
 spent ten days there when there are so 
 many more attractive places where I 
 might have found so much more 4o en- 
 joy. My chief reason was that my 
 friend wished to settle there for six 
 weeks to learn the German language, 
 aud we wanted to be together until he 
 was safely settled in a satisfactory Ger- 
 ! man family. The other was that Cob- 
 '; leriz is a very convenient headquarters 
 I for excursions to attractive and inter- 
 esting localities in every direction. 
 
 On the afternoon of our arrival, as 
 soon as we had gratified the longings of 
 our appetites, we searched out our bank- 
 ers and satisfied desires no less keen, for 
 letters. Then we investigated at length 
 
the monument to Kaiser Wilhelm, and 
 the other sights of the town, and fin- 
 ished off with a walk along the Rhine 
 Promenade, and by the footpath 
 across the railroad bridge to Horch 
 heim, and back along the east bank of 
 the river to Pfaffendorf, and across 
 that bridge to our hotel. After supper 
 we started out once more to walk about 
 town and enjoy the delightful cool of 
 the evening, after the hot afternoon. In 
 thtf course of this walk I investigated 
 eagerly as usual the windows of the 
 men's furnishing stores, and at last was 
 rewarded by finding a collar that ap 
 proximated what my American tastes 
 demanded and I invested forthwith. 
 If you don't care what kind of a collar 
 or necktie, or cuffs you wear, you can, 
 of course, get what you want very 
 reidily over here, but if you have re- 
 fined American tastes, it is a difficult 
 and expensive undertaking to purchase 
 these little articles of masculine attire 
 in Europe and even then you don't get 
 Ivory soap but something * j ust as good. " 
 So do as I did not, bring along a liberal 
 supply of i-ba things you want, so that 
 you ca7j "refuse all substitutes." On 
 our return to the hotel we went into the 
 restaurant to get some mineral water 
 ito drink, and an English paper to read. 
 The English papers were not to be found 
 on the rack, and, in looking aronnd for 
 them, I discovered a French paper lying 
 on a table near me. The table was 
 occupied by a single person, a young 
 man of about my own age, attired in 
 a German uniform. I concluded 
 that a German soldier could have no 
 use for a French newspaper, so I seated 
 ray self at the table and began to read. 
 The soldier sipped his beer, and, after a 
 minute or two, addressed me in French 
 greatly to my surprise. By this time 
 my friend had contented himself with a 
 German paper and seated himself be- 
 side me, and I interpreted the conversa- 
 tion to him. But directly, discovering 
 that my friend understood German, tbe 
 young soldier talked to us alternately in 
 i^rriuch and German, occasionally run- 
 ning in an English word when he found 
 we did not understand the German or 
 
iis polyglot fHHhioii wo 
 
 MIIH inter 
 
 Hi. who, ;M ho told 
 
 f.ars in t h< 
 
 "Hph corps In tlif 
 
 ilained 
 
 why 1m hud had the I<Y< rich p. .per, and 
 
 d and bad 
 
 pointH of the(Jerman and l'Ye<ich newH- 
 ) told me, with DO little 
 
 pride, that, centnrieH ago a mcml- 
 
 his family had been JMI Archbinhop of 
 rbnry, un<l I recalled at, once that 
 had been an Archbishop who pro- 
 
 MMunc<-<! i Ijiou, 
 
 M the Hpr'llin^ was dilTerent. 
 
 | cn\ : 
 
 OWEGO TIMES 
 
 :FEJJ:HUAIIY 28, IDOI 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 M. HIIM-IKT VVrH:H .Anoth<:r 
 
 !<.] 
 
 Sunday dawn:d bright and hot. We 
 in the morni-ir, a German 
 ICfi for tl;< lir- 1. tit:;' 
 
 the at'ttirnoon we met OL^ of the 
 
 at tlio <[\iay and !r 
 minnie chat with 1 ; 
 whom we had met on 1h<; Phoeir, 
 
 ya^n ov(;r, who were LOW on their 
 way from Col 
 
 On Monday while my friend i 
 
 i }'i>r a German family who 
 
 i take him in, 1 studied guidebooks 
 
 and time-tables and planned my trip for 
 
 ;HXt five weekH. In the aUernoon 
 
 tticient time from onr r- 
 tive < pay a viflit to the 
 
 forrre.rH of Khn-nb' The hill, 
 
 on the^fiHt hank oft he Rhineoppot-i 
 month of tlie Moselle '"ptly from 
 
 t,, and from a little 
 .Mi and east. Nature 
 
 marked thin npot fur a military Htrong- 
 hold. aud Hnch it has ij^en ever Hinc.e 
 history han be- n able to tell r t s abont it 
 
The present fortress, erected by t 
 Prussian government about eighty years 
 ago, certainly cannot claim to enhance 
 the beauty or romance of the landscape. 
 A fifteen-minute climb brings one to 
 ' the entrance where tickets are issued at 
 a charge of fifty pfennings (twelve cts ) 
 and a sergeant is "detailed to escort the 
 visitor to the parade ground inside. 
 Three hundred and fifty feet below us 
 flowed the Rhine and the Moselle, sep- 
 arating Cobleiiz from its various sub- 
 urbs. As far as the clouds and haze 
 would permit us to see, stretched a 
 beautiful landscape. Ehrenbreitstein 
 was probably the greatest disappoint- 
 ment of my whole trip Of its grand- 
 eur and beauty I had heard and read for 
 years, and I had a vivid picture in my 
 ue place that I was going to 
 admir" so much. Try as I would, I 
 con! .": jot grit over feeling how tame 
 and insignificant it was compared with 
 the line picture my imagination had 
 painted, and. as though that was not 
 enough, the clouds and the haze had to 
 veil the landscape so that we could see 
 only two or three miles and take it for 
 granted that the view was justly re- 
 nowned. 
 
 Tuesday morning my friend started 
 to wheel to Mayence, where he was to 
 arrive on the following day and meet a 
 friend with whom he was to "do" May- 
 ence, and then return by steamer on 
 Thursday while his friend went on to 
 Cologne In the meantime I was to 
 make some of my side trips from Cob 
 lenz. The hills"southwe*t of the city 
 was the first attraction. I climbed the 
 nearest of these, the Karthanse, passing 
 the barracks, drill grounds and rifle 
 range, and then up through the woods 
 to the snmmit of the Knhkoff (Cow's 
 Head) a thousand feet above Coblenz and 
 the highest point in the vicinty. Here 
 once more a splendid panorama was 
 spread out at my feet, but I could not 
 see it because of the haziness of the 
 atmosphere, which was much worse 
 than on the previous afternoon. De- 
 | scending towards the Rhine. I reached 
 i in about a half hour the Dommelberg, 
 | one of the hills rising directly from the 
 
river of which it commands a pretty 
 view. Then turning my steps towards 
 Coblenz, a short walk brought me to 
 the Rittersturz, which is like its neigh- 
 bor, the Dommelberg, but has the added 
 attraction of a carriage road, a restau 
 rant and other evidences of civilization 
 to draw the public. Then I crossed the 
 little valley of the Laubback, entered 
 Coblenz at the extreme southern end 
 and after another two miles' walk was 
 back at my hotel once more. The ram- 
 ble was a most delightful one though 
 taken all alone, and though the atmos- 
 phere was not clear enough for me to 
 enjoy the views which were said to ex- 
 ist. 
 
 It was a much more ambitious pedes- 
 trian trip which I undertook the nest 
 day. Starting out immediately after 
 my breakfast of coffee and rolls, I 
 crossed the Rhine to Pfaffendorf, passed 
 through the town of Ehrenbreit stein 
 
 np hill climb of two. or 
 three miles. The summit of this bin is 
 crowned by the pretty little town of 
 Arenberg, which I found was famous 
 for its chnrrh, which has been during 
 the last thirty years a pilgrimage shrine 
 visited by the faithful Catholics for 
 miles aronnd. Accordingly I turned 
 aside for five minutes to take a pep at 
 it, but I tarried an hour, for I found 
 guides conducting parties through the 
 grounds adjoining the church, to visit 
 the various little chapels and lesser 
 shrines, so I attached myself to one of 
 the parties. Each of these chapels and 
 shrines represents some event in the 
 history of Christ or of the Church, in e 
 a very realistic manner, and every 
 thing possible is done to heighten the 
 impressive effect upon the piously in- 
 clined. In one of the chapels, there is 
 a reproduction of the home at Nazaratb 
 with the carpenter shop and the other 
 rooms fitted out as nearly as possible 
 like the original. In others are repre 
 seated various scenes from the Pas- 
 sion; and at other points are repre 
 sented the grotto and miraculous spring 
 at Lourdes, scenes from the life of St. 
 , Francis, St. Anthony preaching to the 
 1 fishes, and other things of a similar na- 
 
ture. The stone church itself is a taste- 
 ful little structure. The interior, in 
 stead of being finished in the usual fash- 
 ion in stone and plaster, is finished with 
 a plaster preparation which is thickly 
 set with small bits of quartz, exhibiting 
 a'l sorts of rock crystals. The effect is 
 novel aad pleasing, and is heightened 
 by the well executed mural paintings 
 and ' i glass. The little chapels 
 and ,-'. ;-mes already mentioned are 
 built in the same style and of the same 
 material as the church. The history of 
 the origin and growth of this place is 
 somewhat similar to that of Loardes, 
 though Arenberg cannot boast of a 
 vision like Bernadettes, nor of cures 
 wrought like those at the miraculous 
 spring at Lourdes. As at L.ourdes, so 
 at Arenberg, the conception and the de- 
 velopment "of the pilgrimage shrine is 
 due very largely to the untiring labors 
 of a faithful priest who planned the 
 buildings and surroundings, secured 
 the funds, and carried out the plans 
 Nearby in the little church yard, i? 
 pointed out the last resting-place of this 
 holy man. Though in themselves and 
 in their history the two places are not 
 so unlike, yet the one is situated among 
 the Gascons and the other among the 
 Germans, and the difference of charac- 
 ter of the two peoples may ba clearly 
 seen at these holy places. 
 
 Passing on from the church, I lin- 
 gered a few moments to enjoy the beau- 
 tiful view of the surrounding country, 
 and then hastened on toward Ems, a 
 journey of about an hour and a half. 
 Distances in Germany are popularly 
 reckoned in hours and quarter hours 
 A quarter of an hour may, for conven- 
 ience, be considered equivalent to one 
 mile, though the German is not apt to 
 walk more than three miles an hour, 
 while an American with eqnal assiduity 
 can cover more than four. So when you 
 are told that your destination is five 
 quarters of an hour away you can reas 
 onably expect to reach it within an 
 hour. For hills a liberal allowance is 
 made, and a person accustomel to 
 climb the hills of Ithaca has no trouble 
 whatever in distancing all German com 
 
petitors. As far as possible in walking 
 tonrs it is wise to keep on the chaussee, 
 that is the main road or "pike," or else 
 on well-trodden or well-kept paths dis 
 tinctly marked with signboards erected 
 by responsible parties, and never taken 
 a path marked "The Nearest Way to 
 Blanktown, Schenck's restaurant, one 
 quarter hour away," for the said path is 
 the nearest way to nothing bat Schenck's 
 restaurant and probably is the way to 
 nowhere else. Sometime before reaching 
 Ems one obtains a fine view of the valley 
 of the Lahn, with Ems crowded in at 
 the foot of the hill below. The river is 
 about like Owego Creek but more pic- 
 turesque because of the high hills on 
 either bank. Ems has been known for 
 two thoasand years but its greatness is 
 quite modern. The original sanitarium 
 is only about a century old and the 
 town owes its fame to the patronage of 
 the Old Kaiser who visited it frequently, 
 and, it will be remembered, it was there 
 in July 1870, that he refused to comply 
 with the demands made by Count Bene- 
 detti in behalf of Napoleon III thus 
 making inevitable the declaration of 
 war which Napoleon III issued a few 
 days later. Emsitself is a quiet lit- 
 tle village of six thousand inhabitants 
 and without any attractions whatever, 
 but in July and August of each year it 
 is visited by more than ten thousand 
 people for the sake of its baths, aud be- 
 cause of the charming scenery of the 
 neighborhood. The newer pait of the 
 town consists entirely of hotels, pen- 
 sions and other buildings for the accom- 
 modation of theee visitors. I did not 
 linger an hour in the place, but contin- 
 tinued my pilgrimage to another town, 
 
 which for me possessed more of inter- 
 est. 
 
 The walk up the Lahn along the high 
 road lined with rows of frnit trees in- 
 stead of shade trees is a delightful one. 
 The next town is Dsusenau, a curious 
 little old village still surrounded with 
 its walls and guarded by its ancient 
 tower. Here a little shower delayed 
 me a few minutes, bnfc I was soon on 
 the way once more, and, before long, 
 
reached Nassau, five miles above Ems, 
 on the Lahn. The little hamlet of two 
 thousand inhabitants i? qniet and unin- 
 teresting except for the summer visitors, 
 but on the hills overlooking the town 
 there are the ruins of the ancestral cas- 
 tles of the Dutch royal family and of 
 Baron Stein, the famous Prussian min- 
 ister. The home of Baron Stein is in 
 the town, and is still occupied by one of 
 his descendants After about an hour 
 in this historic locality, I took the 
 train for Coblenz where I arrived in 
 time to do ample justice to a hearty 
 evening meal, for a bottle of mineral 
 water and a roll had been the extent of 
 my food supply on this picnic. Letters 
 which came during the day necessitated 
 a chang in my plans, so that bright 
 and ear?y the next morning, I was 
 aboard the train and on my way to the 
 oldest city in Germany for a two days' 
 trip which will serve as the beginning 
 of my next letter. 
 
 Very truly yours, 
 GEORGE M. DUTCHER. 
 
O iv EGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, MARCH 14, 1901. 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Dutcher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting Letter. 
 
 PARIS, February, 13, 1901. 
 My Dear Sir: 
 
 The Kaiser's people fondly allude to 
 the Rhine as Father Rhine, and many 
 are the songs they sing ana the legends 
 they recount of his grandeur and great- 
 ness. Father Rhine's oldest daughter 
 is Mosella (in French Moselle; in Ger 
 man Mo-sel). She is a comely maiden, 
 with a beauty and a charm which was 
 not entirely inherited from her father. 
 In the crookedness and deviousness < f 
 her ways, also, she has outdone her 
 father, but perhaps this is to make up 
 fors oine of the dignity and strength 
 which has not been handed down to her. 
 In these latter days Father Rhine has 
 grown selfish, lazy, and, I fear, even 
 cowardly, for he still loves to hear that 
 "firm and true stands the watch on the 
 Rhine,'' but he no longer stands sentinel 
 over the Fatherland's western bounds, 
 having parsed that wearisome task on to 
 his charming, craft daughter. Faith- 
 fully for four score and five years has 
 Mosella kept the watch, through sun- 
 shine and through storm, unsung and 
 unpraised, simply because "The Watch 
 on the Rhine" makes good poetry, but 
 "The Watch on the Mosella" does not. 
 Sixteen centuries ago as old Roman is 
 ! said to have been enchanted with Mo- 
 I sella's charms, and to have sung them 
 I in long-forgotten verse. May some no- 
 ! ble-hearted Teuton arise to sing these 
 charms in melody that shall thrill this 
 and coming generations ! 
 
 Far up in the mountains of the Ves- 
 ges, on the southwestern boundary of 
 Germany, less than two hundred miles 
 in a direct line from Coblenz, the Mo- 
 selle has its source. After flowing in 
 a somewhat northwesterly direction 
 

 
 through French territory, it tnrns to 
 the northeast, and, crossing the frontier 
 near Metz, flows for the latter half of 
 its coarse in the Fatherland, The great 
 hills along the lower part of the river 
 force it to take a every serpentine conrse. 
 The distance from Treves to Coblenz by 
 the railroad, which also has many wind- 
 ings, is seventy miles, while the river 
 flows one hnndred and twenty miles 
 between these points, One group of 
 hills the railroad pierces by a tunnel 
 less than three miles in length, while 
 the river calmly flows twelve miles 
 around. The hills rise almost abruptly 
 from the river's edge to a height of a 
 thousand or twelve hundred feet, with 
 every bit of their slopes, that is suffi- 
 ciently open to the sun, planted with 
 vineyards; and the rest clothed with 
 the forest. In order to better utilize 
 every possible bit of land for the vine, 
 the hills are terraced, the rise from one 
 terrace to the next being made by a 
 stone wall, built from the loose stone 
 which have been carefully cleared from 
 the ground. The hills, however, have 
 not been the only recipients of care, for 
 the river is wide and shallow, and much 
 labor has been expended to render it 
 navigable for the small craft which 
 handle much of the trade along the 
 river. The same method has been em- 
 ployed here as on the Meuse, and even 
 on the Rhine, but to a far greater ex- 
 tent. Dikes of stone are built out at 
 right angles with the shore, often reach 
 ing half way across the river. The cur 
 rent of the stream, thus forced into a 
 narrow bed, becomes deep enough to 
 make navigation possible. Tnese dikes 
 are built at such distances from one an- 
 other as to render the current of suffi 
 cient depth but not too swift. In one 
 or two very shallow places dikes have 
 also been constructed parallel with the 
 shore, so that the river is practically 
 canalized. To the beauty of the scenery 
 and the strangeness of the landscape 
 the ruins of many an ancient castle add 
 the atmosphere of antiquity and ro- 
 mance necessary to make the Moselle 
 ideally attractive to the American trav- 
 eler. There is, moreover, the crowning 
 
delight that the American traveler very 
 rarely strays into the valley. 
 
 Thursday, 16th Angnst, waa a bright 
 smuttier day, and hot enough to suit the i 
 most fastidious. The trip from Cob- 
 lenz to Treves lasted from 9 o'clock to 
 until 12. I spent my time enjoying the 
 scenery, except when interrupted by 
 my fellow travelers. These consisted 
 chiefly of a very large German fran of 
 thirty odd years with a small boy and a 
 smaller girl, whom she kept interested 
 and satisfied by producing at regular 
 intervals of fifteen minutes from a small 
 basket which she carried a raw egg with 
 a dirty shell, from which, after break- 
 ing slightly she proceeded to extract the 
 contents by a very primitive method, 
 swallowing so much of it as she did not 
 consider necessary for the further orna- 
 mentation, of the front of her dress. I 
 haven't yet been able to decide whether 
 she took the egg as a stimulant or as a 
 narcotic, or, perhaps, as an anti-fat. 
 At Treves I had a brief time to wait, 
 and so engaged my hotel for the night, 
 and left the little baggage I had with 
 me to await my midnight return. An- 
 other hour's ride brought me to the first 
 object of my visit the historic old city 
 of Luxemburg. The only object of 
 special interest along the way was at 
 the little station of Igel, where one gets 
 a glimpse of an old Roman monument, 
 erected as a family memorial more than 
 fifteen centuries ago, and which is now 
 one of the best preserved and most 
 famous Roman remains in Germany. 
 My fellow travelers this time were a 
 jolly party of four bicyclists, two men 
 ana their wives, who kept me constant- 
 ly amused by their pranks and their 
 language, for they talked German and 
 French with a ready indifference, and 
 one of them sprinkled in a bit of Eng- 
 iish for my benefit. 
 
 Luxemburg is a city of twenty thous- 
 and inhabitants and the capital of the 
 grand duchy of Luxemburg, a little 
 patch of a thousand square miles tucked 
 away in the corner between Germany, 
 France and Belgium. In these piping 
 times of peace we have forgotten about 
 
this crumb of empire which owes its 
 present independence to its former im 
 I portance. The configuration of the 
 | country and especially the immediate 
 ' vicinity of the capital, render it of such 
 strategic importance that even now it 
 is necessary for the peace of Europe to 
 forbid its fortification. The grand 
 duchy easily holds the records for the 
 greatest number of changes of owner- 
 ship. Nominally the grand duke has a 
 warranty deed for his little country, but 
 I suspect it is only a quit claim, for the 
 warranty deed woulg require several 
 volumes if indeed one could pick out the 
 tangled threads of ownership for even 
 the last half-dozen centuries. In name 
 the grand-duchy was a part of the Holy 
 Roman Empire from early times down 
 to the smash up in the time of Napoleon, 
 when it became a part of the French 
 Empire. Later it was a member of the 
 Germanic Confederation and of the 
 German Zollverein or Onstoms-Union 
 Of the latter it is still a member. From 
 1815 to 1890 the kings of the Netherlands 
 were also grand dukes of Luxemburg. 
 William the tMrd having died without 
 male heirs in 1890, his kingdom went to 
 his little daughter Wilhelmina, but his 
 grand-duchy to his nearest male heir, a 
 distant cousin, who is now the oldest 
 crowned head in Europe. When Belgium 
 became independent of the Netherlands 
 in 1880, part of tha inhabitants desired 
 annexation to the new kingdom, while 
 others wished to -retain the grand duke. 
 A congress of the great powers divided 
 the grand-duchy giving some to Belgi- 
 um and leaving a portion independent 
 under the grand duke. At the time of 
 the war in 1866, between Prussia and 
 Austria, there once more arose the 
 question of Luxemburg and once more 
 the great powers had to assemble in 
 Congress to decide on the issues at stake. 
 Aa a result, the destruction of all forti- 
 fications in the grand-duchy was or- 
 dered, and the independence and neu- 
 trality of the country were guaranteed 
 by the powers, but it was to remain a 
 member of the German Customs Union. 
 The people are of the Germanic race 
 but are thorougly French in sympathies 
 
and manners. They talk both French 
 and German, but as a matter of fact it 
 is a hodge-podge, which is neither the 
 one nor the other nor even pidgin Eng- 
 lish. As for money, it is French and 
 German, that is accounts are reckoned 
 in francs|and centimes and paid in marks 
 and pfennigs or vice versa. Whether 
 Luxemburg was the seat of the Garden 
 of Eden or not, is open to debate; but as 
 to its present condition there is no ques- 
 tionit is the devil's half-acre. 
 
 "Beautiful for situation is Zion," 
 "As the mountains are round about Je- 
 rusalem," and "A city that is set on a 
 hill cannot be hid," are some of the 
 phrases which immediately come to 
 one's mind, as his eyes gaze upon the 
 beautiful landscape which the city and 
 its surroundings afford. The country 
 is not exactly hilly, but is, rather, a 
 great plateau gouged with ravines. The 
 city of Luxemburg is built at the inter- 
 section of three of these ravines, the 
 serpentine curves of which add still 
 
 further to the picturesque effect. The 
 city proper is situated on a bit of the 
 plateau in the form of a square, three 
 sides or which descend percipitously for 
 two hundred feet to the ravines below. 
 From one of the two free corners there 
 projects a little promontory like a 
 thumb and from the other free corner 
 another promontory, longer and nar- 
 rower like an index finger. On the oth- 
 er side of the ravine the ciffs arise in 
 equally precipitous fashion, in a shape 
 to fit the corresponding parts of the city 
 plateau like a piece of dove-tailing In 
 former days, before the perfection of 
 firearms, the city could easily have been 
 defended with slight fortifications so 
 that it would seem to have been almost 
 impregnable with the elaborate fortifi- 
 cations which once existed. These for- 
 tifications were really the only sight 
 the city possessed outside of the natural 
 scenery, and now for more than tfhirty 
 years they have been destroyed. There 
 are a few odd bits of ruins of former 
 greatness that are pointed out, includ- 
 ing a pile of stones which is said to 
 mark the site of the earliest castle of 
 
the counts of Nassau, the rnlers of the 
 city some centuries ago. The numerous 
 large bridges are a prominent feature of 
 the landscape. There are a few monu- 
 ments, and an occasional church, one of 
 which is dignified with the name of 
 cathedral. It contains the tomb of 
 John, the blind king of Bohemia, who 
 was killed at the battle of Crecy, and 
 who, it is said, furnished the Princes of 
 Wales with the motto, Ich dien (I serve). 
 The blind king was the count of Lux- 
 emburg (as the title then was), and was 
 the son of one Holy Roman Emporer, 
 and the father of another, who is also 
 buried here, A rather plain looking 
 building, part of which is several cen- 
 turies old, is the residence of the grand 
 dake. On the side of the town, not 
 bounded by a ravine, there once stood 
 fortifications which have now been re- 
 placed by a very pretty public park. The 
 better classes all live in the "upper 
 city," that is, on the heights, but the 
 mass of the population are huddled to- 
 gether in the "lower city," in the ra- 
 vines. The "lower city" is the most 
 disgusting place I have yet had the 
 pleasure of seeing. It is dirty and so 
 are its people, and one hurries away in 
 fear of being knocked down by one of 
 the inhabitants or one of the microbes, 
 neither of which carry around any 
 sachet powder in their pockets. The 
 verdict in resrard to Luxemburg must 
 remain, that all is beautiful and "only 
 man is vile." Across the ravine on each 
 of the three sides of the city are situa- 
 ted small suburbs. The population of 
 the city is comparatively small for its 
 area, scarcely reaching twenty thons- 
 and. 
 
 Without wrenching many heart- 
 strings I managed to leave Luxemburg 
 at about 6 o'clock. Instead of return- 
 ing directly to Treves I went around 
 the other two sides of the triangle in 
 order to stop for an hour or two at the 
 town at the apex. This town, of about 
 ten thousand inhabitants, on the Mo- 
 selle, forty odd miles up the river from 
 Treves, is called in German Dieden- 
 hofen, but in French and English, Thi- 
 oiiville. The inhabitants are chiefly 
 
engaged in manufactures, and thre is 
 scarcely anything of intsrest to see 
 about the place. Being situated close 
 to the frontier it has extensive fortifica- 
 tions, and a garrison largely out of all 
 proportion to the population. It was 
 thia past and present military import- 
 ance of the place that led me to pay it a 
 hasty visit. A citizen of Thionville, 
 who was known as Merlin of Thion- 
 ville, to distinguish him from a col- 
 league of the same name, played a not 
 unimportant part ia the French revolu- 
 tion, and, like several other revolution- 
 ists, had an interesting romance in his 
 life. When a young fellow at home he 
 had fallen in love with the belle of the 
 town and became engaged to her. Then 
 he went away to complete his legal edu- 
 cation and to get a start in the world. 
 When he returned to claim his lady love 
 she was no longer the belle of Thion- 
 ville, for her once handsome face was 
 pitted with the small-pox, and her once 
 bright eyes no longer knew the light. 
 She with infinite kindness sent word to 
 Merlin releasing him from his promise. 
 However he did not care for that, but 
 insisted on marrying her. The mar- 
 riage accordingly took place, but in hia 
 presence she always wore a heavy veil, 
 that he might ever think of her as tha 
 beautiful girl of other days. A daugh- 
 ter of Merlin's, though, I think, by a sec- 
 ond marriage, was still living in Paris 
 two or three years ago, and may possi- 
 i bly be at this time. A grief, which sad- 
 dened her extreme old age, was the fact 
 that she could not- see erected in the 
 former home of her father a memorial 
 to him, for Thionville, no longer French, 
 was the German town of Diedenhofen, 
 and a German government could not 
 permit the erection of a memorial to 
 the man whose greatest deed was to de- 
 fend the German city of Mayence 
 against German troops for several 
 months. Yet, curiously enough, that 
 same government has permitted to 
 stand at Strassburg, a noble monument 
 to Kleber, who was one of Merlin's chief 
 lieutenants at Mayence, 
 
 At Thionville I endeavored to get a 
 dinner of some sort, for my return to 
 
Treves would be at too late an hoar for 
 that purpose. I found a good hotel and 
 ordered a very simple repast, without 
 any trouble, and concluded that not 
 more than three-quarters of an hour 
 
 i was ample time for disposing of it and 
 for catching iny train. Bat I had cal- 
 culated without the cook. Five min- 
 utes after five minutes were ticked off 
 by the unrelenting clock, but no dinner 
 appeared to appease my appetite or iny 
 wrath, which was rapidly rising. The 
 waiter had spotted me as English, and 
 in an indiscreet moment had tried to 
 palm off some English phrase*; so, pa- 
 tience having ceased to be a virtue, I 
 treated him to a bit of invectives in 
 most classic English. The warmth of 
 my language produced the dinner in 
 short order, but, unfortunately for me, 
 it had to be disposed of at a still more 
 rapid rate. There was one waitor who 
 received no tip, a bit of well-deserved 
 neglect, producing in him the same 
 symptoms as his neglect had in me. He 
 was the first waiter to learn that I was 
 brought up on homoeopathic principles 
 and knew how to apply them. My trip 
 back to Treves was not altogether bliss- 
 ful. Changes in the occupants of the 
 compartment shortly after leaving 
 Thionville left as my companions a 
 woman of about fifty, belonging to the 
 poorer class, and a man of the same age 
 and condition in life, but something 
 more than "half seas over" in the ugly 
 direction. I longed thor a thorough 
 mastery of German colloquial profani- 
 ty, that I might imprefcs it upon the old 
 man that I did not approve of his be- 
 havior. The old woman used a large 
 amount of German colloquial, but she 
 seems to have left out the profanity. 
 Finally at a station we were able to at- 
 tract a guard, who took the old gentle- 
 man in hand, while we two, who were 
 peaceably inclined, sought less dis- 
 turbed places. Such was my only real- 
 ly unpleasant experience during four 
 months of travel in third-class compart- 
 ments on German railroads. Without 
 further misadventure I reached Treves 
 toward midnight, and promptly sough u 
 rest at the Depot Hotel. 
 
 j GEORGE M. DUTCHER. 
 
OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, MARCH 21, 1901. 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Duicher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting; letter. 
 
 PAEIS, February, 19, 1901. 
 My Dear Sir: 
 
 My last letter left me ready to enjoy 
 a good night's rest at the Bahnhof 
 (Depot) Hotel at Treves. That hotel is 
 on the list of most approved hotels with 
 ine^ the charges were reasonable and 
 the accommodations satisfactory,' a hap- 
 py corubinatiou not attained so often as 
 one coald wish. In this oldest town of 
 Gerniay, and far from the beaten path 
 of travel, I had the curious and unique 
 experience of partaking of my breakfast 
 at a table with foar other guests ol the 
 Lotvl, every one of whom was an Amer- 
 ican. On arriving at the hotel, I no- 
 ticed, just across from me, a young 
 man wearing the button of the Univer- 
 sity of Pennsylvania We thr j ,e were 
 having a tine time talking over thmga 
 and comparing notes, wnen the other 
 two at the table made known that they 
 were also American citizens, though by 
 birth German Jews. So we five talked 
 on, and then parted to go our respective 
 ways ships that pass at breakfast and 
 t-peak one another in passing. 
 
 Treves claims, apparently with jus- 
 tice, to be the oldest city in Gerinauy. 
 Among the victims of Julius Caesar in 
 his Gallic Wars WHS the tribe of the 
 Treveri who lived along the Moselle. 
 Later a colony waa planted here to 
 guard the crossing of the Moselle, for it 
 was at this point that the Roman road 
 from Bingen on the Il'hme to Rheims 
 crossed the Moselle. Later still Treves 
 became the seat of Roman Emperors, 
 and Christian bishops. The latter 
 gradually grew in power and import 
 anco and for many centuries the Elector 
 Archbishops of Treves were among the 
 greatest d'gnitaries and most powerful 
 
iiilers m the Holy Roman Empire. Like | 
 ail it3 German neighbors, Treves 
 formed part of JNapoJeon's empire, and 
 in 1815 passed 10 Prussia. Nearly allot' 
 liiefoi'iy thousand inhabitants are Cath- 
 olics. T ha German name of the city is 
 Trier, and, as frequently is the case, the 
 English laDguage has adopted the 
 French form of the naine. 
 
 Treves is the one town 1 have seen, up 
 to this time, which has more than a 
 single relic of the period of Rome's 
 greatness. The city has scarcely out- 
 grown the limits of Roman times, even 
 to day, and the development of the sub- 
 urb at one corner of the town is due 
 entirely to the location of the railroad 
 station a quarter of a mile from the 
 town. There is still standing, in excel- 
 lent preservation, one of the gates of 
 tiie Jtioman City, while there exist 
 important remains of the ancient 
 paiace, baths and amphitheatre. One 
 ui the churches, moreover has been but 
 little changed since the days of Con- 
 staniine, and a portion of the cathedral 
 can boast of almost equal antiquity. 
 Some of the piers of tne bridge that 
 bjre the old Roman road across tte Mo- 
 selle are doing as laithf ul duty to-day as 
 they aid in the palmy days of antiquity. 
 
 The Porto Nigra, or black Gate, has 
 seen many vicissitudes, and yen it stands 
 to-day, with but slight changes in ap- 
 pearance and substance, as it stood 
 when a part of the fortifications of the 
 Roman city. One can readily detect 
 where this or that bit haa crumbled 
 away and been replaced by new mate- 
 rials, for the materials and workman- 
 ship are quite different from the origi- 
 nal. Some where back in the middle ages 
 an old hermit selected this gate as a 
 charming, and perhaps not too solitary 
 spot in winch to pass his holy days and 
 aie. Somehow, I slightly suspect that the 
 old fellow was more shrewd in his day 
 and generation than the worldly people 
 of Treves, and at this ionely vantage 
 point levied toll on the sympathy of 
 many a market woman, vender or 
 tradesman hastening to the market 
 place near by, and thus lived a life of 
 ease and affluence, that would have 
 
been the envy of bia clients had they 
 but known. Bat the clients, they never 
 knew nor even once suspected, for when,' 
 at last, the holy man ended his days, 
 they missed the opportunity to practice 
 the Christian-virtnes of charity and be- 
 nevolence, which he had so long afford- 
 ed them. So the pious took thought 
 and money, and built around one end of 
 the gate a church no, two cuurches, 
 for one was not enough for such a very, 
 very holy man and there they and 
 their children, and their children's 
 children unto the ninth generation did 
 honor to the sainted one. Ages after- 
 ward there arose a generation who knew 
 not Joseph, or, rather, Simeon, for that 
 waa the worthy's name, and with irrev- 
 erent hands destroyed those churches. 
 A later generation, which severed not 
 hermits but antiquity, effaced, as far as 
 possible, every trace of the churches 
 aud restored the ancient gate to its 
 former and unencumbered grandeur. 
 
 The old Roman inhabitants had not 
 only to be protected from the foe but 
 also to be amused, and provided with 
 the means of burning time. To-day the 
 civilized man with time to burn resorts j 
 to the barber shop, and with the aid of j 
 the consoling cigar burns many an idle 
 hour. Now, the old Roman did not 
 know that there was any such thing as 
 a cigar, that luxury being then reserved 
 for the noble red man in America. 
 Moreover, this degenerate race of Ro- 
 mans did not know enough to shave, 
 as their wiser fathers had done before, 
 but indulged in the imported fashion of 
 wearing full beards. Accordingly it 
 became necessary for the powers that 
 were to adopt an expensive and luxuri- 
 ous device to cater to the tastes of the 
 man about town. The built enormous 
 and magnificent structures, in which 
 were accommodations permitting the 
 fastidious to bathe as often and in as 
 many ways as they pleased, while still 
 more commodious apartments furnished 
 ample opportunity to avoid passing the 
 intervals between bath industriously. 
 "Oleanlineps is next to godlinesr," and, 
 oddly enough, both the bathing fad and 
 
Christianity seein to bave reached 
 Treves at about the time of Constan- 
 tine. The baths which were erected 
 here in the fonrth centnry, were still 
 existing in tolerable preservation in the 
 seventeenth centnry, when they rapidly 
 decayed, and about 1880 became mate- 
 rial for the archeologist's spade. Thanks 
 to the said spade, one can now clamber 
 over the rains of the part that were 
 originally below the ground floor and 
 get a fairly correct notion of the ground 
 plan of the building and of the devices 
 employed to supply heat and water. 
 Among the crumbling ruins,now haunt 
 ed only by lizards and an occasional 
 curioUvS tourist, one finds no single trace 
 to recall the wealthy idler or the gay 
 dandy who once lorded it here in gor- 
 geous apartments. 
 
 The baths are situated close to the 
 Moselle bridge. A mile back from the 
 river rises a pretty vine clad hill, in the 
 side of which the old Roman built his 
 amphitheater eighteen hundred years 
 ago. Enough still remains to permit 
 the identification of the various parts of 
 the building. To-day a handful of boys 
 play more or less peacefully in the arena 
 where, sixteen centuries ago, at the com- 
 mand of Constantine, several thousand 
 Frank were torn to pieces by wild beasts 
 for the safety of the empire and the 
 smnsement of the populace of Treyes 
 Returning from the amphitheater, just 
 at the entrance of the town, one finds a 
 much more picturesque ruin. Walls 
 sixty feet in height still enclose several 
 rooms, which give one an inkling of 
 what the ancient palace was in the days 
 of its youth, before the evil days of the 
 Middle Ages had come, when it was 
 converted into a church, and later into 
 a fortress, and still later, when it was 
 given over to time and neglect. The 
 best preserved relic of Roman times is 
 the building which Constantine erected 
 for the use of the law courts. The 
 building is of large red bricks, but, in 
 epite of numerous changes of occupants 
 and occupations, looks as young and 
 well preserved as the Owego Methodist 
 church, which it somewhat resembles 
 
in external appearance, except that it 
 has no steeple, and has a flatter roof. 
 Like similar structures in other parts of 
 the Roman empire, this building was 
 called a basilica, and, like many other 
 basilicas "in time became a Christian 
 chnrch, though, in this case, not until 
 comparatively recent times. 
 
 The cathedral, however, is the devel- 
 ment of another basilica, erected about 
 a half century later, and almost imme- 
 diately converted into a Christian 
 church. The walls of the nave of the 
 cathedral are the ^ alls of the former 
 basilica, and on the outside of the build- 
 ing one can trace the repairs and the 
 additions made in the sixth, eleventh, 
 thirteenth and seventeenth centuries. 
 Externally this building is a very plain, 
 unattractive looking structure. The 
 interior is scarcely more attractive, 
 though the monuments of the former 
 archbishop, and the decorations of the 
 choir and altars, to some extent relieve 
 the barren appearances. In a little 
 chapel adjoining the choir is walled up 
 
 the famous holy coat of Treves Christ's 
 coat which "was without seam, woven 
 from the top throughout," and for which 
 the soldiers cast lots. This coat is only 
 exhibited once or twice during a cen- 
 tury, when vast numbers of pilgrims 
 visit Treves to view it. The last of 
 these occasions was in 1843, I think, 
 though I have not the means at hand to 
 ascertain definitely. It most be observ- 
 ed that among the boasted relics at 
 Lourdes there is also a holy coat an 
 unfortunate case of mistaken identity 
 in one place or the other, for it af- 
 fords a chance for the unfaithful 
 to sctff. In the cathedral treasury, 
 which was shown by a piea&ant and in 
 teliigent young priesr, there is an exact 
 fac-simiie of the holy coat, the tkulls of 
 !St. Matthew, and of Be. Helena the 
 mother of Conetantine, and a nail from 
 the cross. JSails from the cross are a i 
 favorites subject for the one who scoffs 
 at relics. This was the second I had 
 seen, and it has this much in favor of 
 i its genuineness, it came out of the same 
 I keg as the tirst one. Ifc is kept in a beau- 
 
I tifui case of purple and gold and must 
 
 not be toucned by the hand of man, 
 
 I though fche priest receives the rings of 
 
 I the faithi'nl spectators and touches 
 
 them to the nail>and returns them to 
 
 the owners. 
 
 Next door to the cathedral there is a 
 more modern church more beautiful both 
 maide and outside than the cathedral. 
 It was built in the thirteenth century 
 and is of a curious' form, namely, H cir- 
 cle intersected by a cross. The roof is 
 supported by twelve columns on which 
 are painted figures of the twelve apos- 
 tles There is a single stone in the pave- 
 ment near the door, where one may 
 stand and see the whole twelve apostles 
 at a single glance, but; from no other 
 point is this possible, a step in any di- 
 rection immediately obscures at least 
 one of the twelve. In Treves and the 
 suburbs there are several other churches 
 of minor interest. Of ccurse there are 
 numerous old buildings that is one, 
 two, or three hundred years old, that 
 will interest one who has time to search 
 r.bem ont and study them. There is the 
 usual supply of monuments, including, 
 as a matter of course, one to the Old 
 Kaiser. On the other bank of the 
 Moselle, crowning a hill that overlooks 
 the city, there has been erected a lofty 
 monument to the Virgin Mary, in com- 
 memoration of the promulgation of the 
 dogma of the immaculate conception. 
 
 The city has a library stocked with 
 many an ancient tome and many a mus- 
 ty parchment. Some of these, apart 
 from their literary worth, are splendid 
 specimens of the art of bookmafeiug for 
 more than a thousand years past. Tbe 
 ujore ancient of these are, of course, 
 volumes of parchment, written by hand, 
 and beautifully illustrated in brilliant 
 colors and in a few cases with bindings 
 of precious metals set with jewels. 
 There is also an interesting collection of 
 autograph letters of great men. Treas- 
 ures of a similar sort are to be found in 
 the largest and in the oldest libraries of 
 Europe, but are, naturally rather rare. 
 In contrast with the dingy old struc- 
 ture which houses the library, is the 
 line new building containing the valu- 
 
able city museniii. The relics of the 
 Roman period that have been found in 
 the valley of the Moselle are mostly col- 
 lected in this iimseutn^as are also numer- 
 ous objects illustrative of -the history 
 and culture of the Moselle valley at other 
 epochs, One of my pleasant memories 
 is the visit to the library. The librarian 
 was a fine-appearing, well-educated 
 man who talked to me in excellent Eng- 
 lish. He turned me over to an aged at- 
 tendant to be shown the treasures of the 
 library. He, in turn, proved to be by 
 no means unlettered, and with the gar- 
 rulity and the deliberation of age dis- 
 coursed to me on bis precious books and 
 documents, exibiting with equal pride 
 the scanty &tore of English which he 
 had accumulated but I ought not to 
 say "tcanty," for he undoubtedly knew 
 far more English than I knew German. 
 A little after 5 o'olock I cut my sight- 
 seeing short and took the train for Cob- 
 lenz. The trip passed pleasantly and 
 uneventfully and soon after 8 o'clock 1 
 was back in my room at the Hotel 
 Springer. There I discovered a note 
 telling me of my friend's return from 
 his visit to Mayence, and that he had 
 found permanent quarters for himself, 
 just across the Rhine, at Pfaffendorf, 
 in the family of the widow of a Ger- 
 man Protestant pastor. He added to 
 his note the agreeable information that 
 he would call to see me soon after 9 
 o'clock, so I hurried over to the Mai- 
 vvald and partook of such dinner as my 
 pocketbook would afford. By depriving 
 myself of some of the dinner I justly 
 deserved, and the waiter of part of the 
 nip which he justly expected, I was able 
 to meet my friend with the flattest 
 pocketbook I have had in Europe. Be- 
 sides a Columbian half dollar received 
 in change at Meyer's Hotel in Hoboken 
 the morning I sailed, and which I have 
 since carried as a pocketpiece, it con- 
 tained just ten pfennigs (two cents and 
 a half). Ttoe meeting between my friend 
 and myself might have been described 
 HS affecting, in a more emotional age; 
 it certainly was affectionate, for we had 
 had strange and varied experiences since 
 our nartinsr a few days before. The 
 
next morning I took pleasure" in vieit- 
 ing my banker and getting money and 
 letters to start me on fresh ventures. 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 GEORGE M. DUTCHER. 
 
OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, MARCH 28, 1901. 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Dutcher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting; Letter. 
 
 PARIS, March, 4, 1901. 
 My Dear Sir: 
 
 Under the most propitious circum- 
 stances, I take my pen in hand to relate 
 to you another chapter of my adven- 
 tures in the valley of the Rhine. It is 
 'blue Monday" with a vengeance. The 
 sky above is a deep, dull gray; the streets 
 below would be described by the ordi- 
 nary American as "awful wet and mud- 
 dy," by the American college student as 
 "horribly sloppy," and by the English- 
 man as "nasty," and all the terms are 
 appropriate; while in the middle spaca 
 there is rain, which for Paris may be 
 called a pouring rain. By dint of the 
 greatest exertions I was prepared to de- 
 mand my breakfast at half-past nine. 
 It was, as usual, one of those substan- 
 tial Parisian breakfasts of bread and 
 cocoa. The very thought of a piece of 
 of beefsteak for breakfast would give 
 a Frenchman indigestion for a month; 
 add potatoes and he would be ill with 
 typhoid fever for six months, and men- 
 tion pan-cakes with syrup and he would 
 forthwith die of apoplexy. Being limit- 
 ed as to variety, I make up in quantity 
 at such a rate that the good rnadame's 
 pocketbook has a regular morning at- 
 tack of sciatica. For sometime past I 
 have been in the habit of saving an ap- 
 
 Ele or an orange from dinner for a pre- 
 ice to my breakfast. One fine morn- 
 ing madame herself tried an orange for 
 breakfast and was forced to confess that 
 my offense was a pardonable one. The 
 literary part of breakfast is equally 
 slim, because the Parisian idea of jour- 
 nalism is several points below the Ameri- 
 can, and so atterly removed from the 
 ideal as to be only ideally bad. The or- 
 dinary American in Paris is compelled 
 
to blnsh with shame at the Parisian ex- 
 ponent of American journalism the 
 Paris edition of the New York Herald 
 Its only superiority to the true Parisian 
 article, is that it sometimes has ten lines 
 of straight American news, imported 
 by the way of England, while the Paris 
 journal never has more than five lines, 
 and that is badly "cribbed" from the 
 Herald, The result is that one must 
 take the Herald and blush. Well, hav- 
 ing consumed the breakfast such as it 
 was literary and otherwise, I chewed 
 my toothpick and meditated for some 
 minutes on the solemn fact that it was 
 the 4th of March and that it was prob- 
 ably raining harder in Washington than 
 in Paris, therefore I should be very 
 cheerful, for I could get off with staying 
 in doors and writing you "another in- 
 teresting letter ;" but poor William Mc- 
 Kinley must get out and read his little 
 7,000- word speech, while "Teddy" held 
 the umbrella so awkwardly that when 
 the water did not drip down the back 
 of the Presidential neck, it dripped up- 
 on the Presidential manuscript and con- 
 verted the beautifully written page into 
 an unseemly and unintelligible blur. 
 Of course, "Teddy" was keeping nice 
 and dry the while, thinking of four 
 years ahead so strenuously that it will 
 be at least four years before the little 
 Presidential inconveniences will occur 
 to his mind. 
 
 Having by this time worked myself 
 into such a state of cheerfulness that it 
 dissolved the clouds into a half-smile 
 five hours later, I sat down and cogi- 
 tated on Saturday, the 18th of August, 
 and remembered that a good many 
 things had not happened then. "Ted- 
 dy" had not yet begun to talk himself 
 from Governor to Vice President, and 
 had not experienced several interesting 
 encounters in Colorado, which furnish- 
 ed food for discussion to a Massachu- 
 setts debating society. Then, too, 
 many a long-since renowned football 
 hero was living quietly in the bosom of 
 his family quite unknown to the sport- 
 ing editor of the New York World. 
 Then warming up to my subject I re- 
 called that this*, particular August Sat- 
 
nrday was a hot' day in fact a very hot 
 day ; so that, having replenished my de- 
 pleted pocket-book, and disposed of my 
 extensive morning mail, I felt my daty 
 done, and hied me to a shady spot on 
 the wharf to watch while the boats 
 came and went. Boats and trains are 
 always late when yon have lots of time 
 to wait for them it cultivates patience 
 and encourages profanity. By and by, 
 however, the proper boat arrived, and 
 with a hurried twitch I disposed of all 
 looks of patience and profanity, and 
 donned a cheerful smile to meet our 
 -friend as she walked down the gang- 
 plank. Our friend had passed two years 
 at Cornell, as a graduate student in his- 
 tory, like ouf selves ; but she had antici- 
 pated us by a year in visiting Europe, 
 and was just leaving off where we were 
 beginning with the trip on the Rhine. 
 After a mid-day meal we three bargain- 
 ed with a cabby, and with myself as ex- 
 perienced guide paid a visit to the pil- 
 grimage church at Arenberg, which had 
 so interested me a few days before. The 
 past year had many things of interest 
 for each of us to relate, and time was 
 far from hanging heavily on our hands. 
 At set of sun we parted to go our re- 
 spective ways, our newly-arrived friend 
 to the cosy little English lodge, my fel- 
 low-traveler to his newly-found Ger- 
 man home, and I to Hotel Springer. 
 
 Sunday was no less hot. I started in 
 the day by attending mass at the fif- 
 teenth-century Catholic church, and 
 then searched out the old school build- 
 ing in which a room had been fitted up 
 as a temporary chapel for the services 
 of the Anglican church, where I might 
 worship in a language and a ritual less 
 strange to me. In the afternoon we 
 three friends took a stroll in the Rhine 
 promenade, and having found the bench 
 located in the coolest possible spot, we 
 sat ourselves down to watch the crowds 
 of Sunday strollers, and the boats ply- 
 ing up and down the river, and to con- 
 tinue our reminiscences and anticipa- 
 tions. In the evening we two fellows 
 dined together, and then walked over 
 to Pfaffendorf, where I inspected my 
 friend's new home, and pronounced it 
 
good. Monday morning at 9 o'clock 
 found ns three friends together on the 
 deck of one of the Rhine steamers, our 
 friend to go to Cologne, and we two to 
 Andernach, whence we were to visit the 
 Laacher See. We produced a stock of 
 souvenir postal cards to send joint re- 
 minders to our common friends at home, 
 notably to onr two masters at Cornell, 
 Prof. H. Morse Stephens and Prof. 
 Moses Coit Tyler, whom we have since 
 been called to monrn. At Andernach 
 ten or twelve miles down the river, we 
 said good-bye and bon voyage to onr 
 friend and disembarked. 
 
 Andernach is a little town not much 
 larger than Owego, bnt has a history 
 reaching back to Roman times. Its 
 streets, and many of its buildings, as 
 well as the picturesque ruins of its 
 walls and castle still tell us of the days 
 gone by. This element of the pictur- 
 esque has more than once impressed the 
 artists, and views of Andernach may be 
 found in the picture galleries of Ger- 
 many. After an hour spent in doing 
 the town we took a short railroad, lead- 
 ing up into the hills as far as the little 
 hamlet of Niedermendig where we 
 stopped long enough to dine, and then 
 went on by foot to the Laacher See. The 
 most noticeable thing along the road are 
 the stone mines. The stone is not cut 
 from the open quarry as we are accus- 
 tomed to seeing it done, but is mined at 
 a depth of more than sizty feet. The de- 
 scent is made through what looks like a 
 deep well. The stone is brought up in 
 buckets by a horse tramping around a 
 capstan in the good old primitive fashion . 
 The neighboring hills were, thousands 
 of years ago, volcanoes, and the stone 
 which is mined ie basaltic lava origina- 
 ting from these volcanoes. The stone is 
 used for millstones, and for paying and 
 building material. All the stations and 
 buildings of the little up-country rail- 
 rofcfl by which we had traveled are 
 built of this stone and present a neat 
 and attractive appearance that might 
 well be a cause for envy and emulation 
 to many a great trunk line. These stone 
 mines, which have been worked since 
 Roman times, also serve the purpose of 
 
cellars for the famous brand of beer 
 known a8 Niedermendig. We did not 
 linger long to examine these interesting 
 quarries, for clonds were gathering om- 
 iiions and black. We completed our 
 three miles aad a half to the hotel at 
 Laacher See none too quickly to escape 
 the shower. Instead of having, as we 
 bad hoped, plenty of time to visit and 
 enjoy the scenery of the neighborhood, 
 we could do nothing but squander our 
 time in the sitting room of the hotel on 
 the porch. We had, however, the satis- 
 faction of one pretty sight, that of the 
 lake just as the storm burst upon it. 
 Our chances for sight-seeing being 
 spoiled, we two and a young English 
 geological student started out as soon 
 as the shower began to abate and 
 reached Niedermendig just in time to 
 catch a train back to Andernach, and 
 another to Coblenz. While waiting to 
 make connections at Andernach I was 
 accosted with, "Hello, there! how's 
 Ameriky !" The full, crimson face, the 
 alcoholic breath, the glib tongue and 
 the bold assurance and swagger of the 
 fellow marked him immediately as 
 an American of foreign extrac- 
 tion who had seen a good 
 deal of the world and could tell all 
 about the rest of it. It would not have 
 taken long to have guessed his employ- 
 ment, even if he had not promptly told 
 it. He belonged to Barnum's circua, in 
 fact he was the advance agent, which 
 being interpreted meant that he and 
 two or three more of hie kind were 
 "billing" the little country towns for 
 the circus. His ideas of the Germans 
 were somewhat novel and interesting, 
 much so that I should have enjoyed the 
 views of some of the said Germans of 
 
 him. By the time our train arrived he 
 had disposed of his stock of knowledge to 
 all the available persons and was ready 
 to conquer other worlds, so he took 
 another compartment in the train and 
 we wept not. 
 
 Tuesday morning was much cooler, 
 but did not promise an especially fine 
 day, yet it proved one of the best of the 
 summer, a perfect day for a trip up the 
 Rhine. I was astir betimes, packed my 
 
grips, ate an extra slice of bread and 
 honey, and drank an extra cup of choc- 
 olate, then bade farewell to Hotel 
 Springer, and bestowed myself and my 
 belongings on the steamer. My friend 
 was to remain in his German home at 
 Pfaffendorf to acquire proficiency in the 
 German tongne, while I, who disdained 
 lingnistic accomplishments, was to 
 tra^ el on up the Rhine and through 
 Switzerland to Mnnich, and thence to 
 Leipsic. There we were to meet on 
 October 15, and pass a week with onr 
 friend who had made the voyage with 
 ns, and proceeded at once to Hamburg, 
 while we landed at Cherbourg. For me 
 it was to be a period of constant change 
 with the excitement and pleasure of 
 seeing things strange and interesting ; 
 but for him it meant a quiet, lonely ex- 
 istence in surroundings which might or 
 might not be pleasant. Our parting 
 was, I am sure, the most homesick mo- 
 ment that my friend has had in Europe, 
 and I guess it was the same with me. 
 That, however, does not say that we 
 were, or have been, homesick ; we have 
 both been having too good a time for- 
 that, though there have been many 
 times when we would gladly have taken 
 a five minutes perhaps a quarter of an 
 hour peep at home and Ithaca. So 
 with a hearty handshake, and a wave 
 of the hat, and all the smiles we could 
 muster, we faced our respective ways 
 to meet again happier and wiser. 
 Yours truly, 
 
 GEORGE M. DUTCHER. 
 
WEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, MAY 2, 1901. 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Dutcher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting Letter. 
 
 PARIS, March 6, 1901. 
 My Dear Sir : 
 
 The legions and the tales of the Rhine- 
 land, and the fame of its scenery have 
 led us to believe every mile of its length 
 picturesque and romantic. The trnth, 
 at least as far as my experience goes, is 
 qnite otherwise. With the exception 
 of a half dozen miles in the neighbor- 
 hood of the Drackenfels and the thirty- 
 eight and one.- half miles from the 
 month of the Moselle at Coblenz to the 
 month of the Nahe at Bingen, the sce- 
 nery ifl monotonous and uninteresting, 
 the flavor of romance is lacking. These 
 exempted forty-five miles, however, are 
 a perfect del\ferht to the lover of nature, 
 of myth, and of history. One could 
 readily pick out equal distance on Amer- 
 ican rivers, just as beautiful, jnst as 
 rich in legend, and just as important in 
 history, but they lack one thing, the 
 charm of age which one can feel only 
 to a limited degree in America, a paltry 
 three centuries instead of two milleni 
 urns. Bub even antiquity is relative, 
 for the Tiber counts its three milleni- 
 uins, the Jordan and the Ilissns four, 
 while the Euphrates, the Ganges and 
 the Yang-tse-Kiang date their histories 
 back so far that man knoweth not the 
 number of their inilleniums. So the 
 New Yorker and the Canadian may 
 count the three centuries of their Hud 
 son and St Lawrence with the same 
 justifiable pride as theRhinelander does 
 his two milleniutns. The story of Rip 
 van Winkle will continue to charm 
 generation after generation of Ameri- 
 can? Just as that of Bishop Hatto and the 
 Mouse Tower entertains age after age 
 of Germans. West Point and Quebec 
 are as charming as Ehrenbreitstein and 
 

for the American have &11 the historical 
 importance that the great fortress above 
 Coblenz has for the Fatherland. 
 
 That day in Angnst was perfectly fit- 
 ted for a trip through those delightful 
 scenes that have been the pride of Ger- 
 many for ages. The sky was of a deep 
 dull bine, checkered with clond after 
 cloud, so that it was seldom that the 
 sun's rays beat upon ns with unbroken 
 force. The air was perfectly clear and 
 every bit of the landscape stood forth 
 in its fall glory. A strong breeze made 
 the air really cold on the boat's deck, so I 
 donned my mackintosh, turned the collar 
 well up about my ears, and pulled my 
 cap down over my eyes, and then, with 
 a pair of gloves, I was ready to settle 
 down in my chair at the bow with my 
 Baedeker and map to take in every bit 
 I could of the panorama passing before 
 me. 
 
 The bridge of boats opened to let us 
 through, then we passed under thePfaf- 
 fendorf bridge and caught a last glimpse 
 of the Rhine promenade and Ehren- 
 breitstein, then under the Horchheim 
 railroad bridge. The old scenes had 
 passed from view and new ones de- 
 manded all the attention. [That trick- 
 sy maiden Fortune is always bring- 
 ing about curious coincidences. Just as 
 I finished the last sentence, alluding to 
 my parting frcin my friend at Coblenz, 
 I received a letter from him in Berlin, 
 and have replied to it, arranging to 
 meet him, shortly, for a visit to Italy. 
 Once more, ''this is a little world." 
 Well, there still remains enough of the 
 evening to continue the voyage on the 
 Rhine]. In Prussia, and the Rhine is 
 Prussian from the Dutch frontier to 
 Bingen, one cannot go far without reck- 
 oning with the Kaiser in one way or 
 another. Just to our left, on the west 
 bank is the little town of Capellen at 
 the foot of a hill on which rises the cas- 
 tle of Stolzenfels, a private estate be- 
 longing to the Kaiser. For five cen- 
 turies it was a stronghold of the Arch- 
 bishop of Treves, until the French de- 
 stroyed it in 1 089. After being a ruin 
 for a century and half, it was presented 
 to Frederick William IV, who had it 
 
restored by the most fatnons architects 
 of the period. Since then it has been 
 
 rivate property of the Ki< 
 Prussia. Like all the Prussian palaces, 
 when the royal family is not in resi- 
 dence, it may be visited on paying the 
 trifling fee of twenty-five pfennigs (six 
 and one-quarter cents). Stolzenfels is 
 the pride of all the region round, and is 
 visited by large numbers every summer. 
 Just across the river is the mouth of the 
 Lahn with Niederlahnstein below, 
 and Oberlahnstein above. The lat- 
 ter is an old town of seven thousand 
 people, and contains a castle of the 
 fourteenth century. On the height 
 above the town is another castle a cen- 
 tnry and a half old<-T, destroyed by the 
 French in 1689, and recently restored. 
 
 In a few moments one just catches a 
 glimpse, on the west bank, of the Kon- 
 igsstuhl, or king's seat, the official meet- 
 ing place of the seven Elector's of the 
 Holy Roman Empire for choosing th^ 
 Emperors. Within a mile of this point 
 the territories of the three ecclesiastical 
 electors, the Archbishops of Cologne, 
 Treves and Mayence, met; and twenty 
 miles up the river began the territories 
 of the Elector Palatine. At this lone 
 structure on the river bank has been 
 enacted more than one scene in the 
 drama of German history, Rhens, just 
 up the river from the Konigsstuhl, be- 
 longed to the Archbishops of Cologne, 
 who, six centuries ago, built the walls 
 which still surround the town. A lit- 
 tle further along on the east bank is 
 Brauback, an old town of two thousand 
 inhabitants The castle of Marksburg, 
 which overlooks the town, is almost the 
 only one along the Rhine which es- 
 caped the fury of the French in 1689. 
 Twelve miles above Coblenz, on the 
 west bank, isBoppard with a population 
 of six thousand. This town antedates 
 even tho Roman period, and still pre- 
 serves some remains of its Roman walls. 
 It has a church of the twelfth century, 
 and another church and a castle of the 
 Archbishops of Trevee dating from the 
 fourteenth century. Along the Rhine 
 and the Moselle and a few miles back 
 from the rivers there are numerous 
 
pleasantly situated little towns, like 
 Boppard, with goo^hotel accomm^da- 
 tions at reasonable rates, and it seems 
 to me one might pass a very delightful 
 summer qnietly and cheaply in the val- 
 ley of the Rhine, with a week here and 
 a week there and the next one some- 
 where else, and from each place make 
 the little pedestrian tonrs to the local 
 places of interest. Of course these hotels 
 are not like those of the big snnimer 
 resorts whether in America or Europe, 
 and the towns are quiet, dead little 
 places. In these towns one can live for 
 a little more than a dollar a day, and 
 for two dollars can have the best the 
 town affords, whereas in the large 
 towns where the tourists regularly stop, 
 the prices start at two dollars and end 
 at infinity. 
 
 [Well, I muat insert another bracket 
 to explain the vicissitudes of this let- 
 ter. Three weeks have passed since I 
 penned the above lines. I have left 
 Paris, and been back to Munich "where 
 my friend and I met and arranged oth- 
 er details of our Itallian trip. Then I 
 left my frien$ at Munich while I went 
 on to Salzburg and Vienna, and finally 
 back to Innsbruck, where I again met 
 my friend, and to-day we have jour- 
 neyed over the Brenner pass and down 
 to Verona together. Here we are seated 
 in a little old Itallian restaurant, after 
 dinner, and listening to native fiddle 
 and song for the first time. I don't 
 know what its all about, but it has a 
 strain of melancholy in it and might be 
 "Way back in old Owego."] 
 
 On the opposite bank, two miles above 
 Boppard, is an old convent, back of 
 which ri es a hill crowned with two 
 castles known as the Brothers. Their 
 story is one of the most attractive of 
 the Rhinelands. In Liefenstein, one of 
 the castles, lived an old knight with 
 two sons, both of whom were deeply in 
 love with their foster sister, Hildegard. 
 Henry joined the crusade aud generous- 
 ly left Hildegard to his brother Conrad, 
 for whom the old knight built Stenen- 
 berg, the second castle. Later Conrad, 
 too, longed for the heroic and romantic 
 life in the Holy Land, and joined the 
 
crusade, leaving Hildegard to a lonely 
 life. Conrad, finally, returned with a 
 beautiful Grecian bride, and the heart- 
 broken Hildegard sought the deepest 
 seclusion. One day an unknown knight 
 appeared at the castle to demand hospi- 
 tality, but when he heard Hildegard's 
 story*, prepared to avenge his brother's 
 unfaithfulness. But before the two 
 brothers could meet in single combat, 
 Hildegard interposed and reconciled 
 them, and then retired to the convent 
 in the valley below. The Grecian bride 
 soon proved fickle, and Conrad threw 
 himself upon his brother's generosity, 
 and henceforth Stenenberg was aban- 
 doned and the two brothers lived to- 
 gether in the ancestral castle of Lieben- 
 stein. All that history tells us is that 
 the the two castles have stood there for 
 more than seven centuries. Five miles 
 further on is another ruined castle call- 
 ed the Mouse, in derision by the knights 
 of another castle a little further on, who 
 called their stronghold the Cat. 
 
 At the foot of the hill on which stands 
 the Cat lies St. Goarshausen, wit 1,500 
 people, while across on the west bank 
 is St. Goar, a little larger town, with 
 the old castle of Rheinfels. These two 
 towns owe their their names to St. Goar, 
 the traditional missionary in this region, 
 fifteen centuries since. This point is 
 undoubtedly the most attractive on the 
 Rhine, and only a mile beyond is that 
 great rock dear to the heart of every 
 German, and made forever famons, the - 
 world around, by Heine's beautiful 
 lyric the Lorelei, Thin is the most 
 rugged and picturesque of the hills 
 along the Rhine and rises abruptly from 
 the water's edge to a height of over 
 four hundred feet. This, too, is the 
 narrowest point in the course of the 
 Rhine below the Lake of Constance 
 and so the current is rapid and deep, 
 and thus it has happened that many 
 a weird and melancholy tale has been 
 told of the pitiless siren of the cliff. 
 Further up stream, the next town is 
 Oberwesel, with its castle in which the 
 famous Marshal Schonberg was born. 
 Naturally the castle fell victim to 
 French vengeance in 1689, but is now 
 
the property of a family of New York- 
 ers named Rhinelamler. Caub, the next 
 station, was the place at which Mar- 
 shal Blncher crossed the Rhine and in- 
 vaded Napoleon's empire on December 
 31, 1813, Of course the town is com- 
 manded by a castle, or in this case by 
 two. Bacharach, the next town, has 
 ancient walla, chnrch, castle, and repu- 
 tation for wine. Furstenberg once 
 claimed as master the nerviest of the 
 robber barons, for he actually stopped 
 an Emperor on his way to coronation 
 and exacted toll. Opposite is Lorch, 
 with 2,100 people and 1,100 years of his- 
 tory. Several ex robber castles follow, 
 the most interesting of which is Rhein- 
 stein, which became the property of a 
 Prussian prince and has been restored 
 to all its mediaeval strength and splen- 
 dor. It is now open to visitors and is 
 well worth the visit, as I discovered a 
 few days later. Nearly opposite is Aa- 
 smannshansen, famous for its wine and 
 its mineral water. Beyond the town 
 rises the hill known as the Niederwald, 
 around which the Rhine turns at right 
 angles. The hill is .sarmonuted by a 
 beautiful and conspicuous Germania 
 monument a sort of embodiment of 
 the Watch on the Rhine. The slopes 
 of the Niederwald are covered with 
 vineyards, notably those of the Rudes- 
 heirn, at the southeast. In the river 
 just before it turns around the Nieder- 
 wald is a little island on which is lo- 
 cated the famous Mouse tower, whose 
 legend Southey has embodied in verse. 
 Tnis is the one point on tne lower Rhine 
 where navigation is really dangerous, 
 and this tower seems to have been erect- 
 ed for lights and signals. 
 
 Opposite the Niederwald, on the west 
 bank, we have Bingen above and Bin- 
 
 fsrbruck below the mouth of the Nahe. 
 he waters of the Nahe are of a deep, 
 red brown, and for several miles discol- 
 or the Rhine along its west bank. B'air 
 Bingen on the Rhine is pleasantly situ- 
 ated, and back of it arise hills crowned 
 with important looking buildings. The 
 city numbers bnt 8,000 people. The 
 nineteen miles from Bingen to Mayence 
 is through a comparatelv level country 
 
and of little scenic interest, though it 
 is is pleasant and offers a few things q| 
 architectural and historic interest. Bie- 
 brich, the port of Wiesbaden, is the 
 most important town between Coblenz 
 and Mayence. 
 
 Mayence a most parallels the history 
 of Treves and is not greatly unlike it. 
 I reached there on the evening-of the 
 21st of August, at about six o'clock, and 
 remained there till the 25th, interspers- 
 ing the seeing of the city with a trip to 
 Bingen to visit Rheinstein and the Nei- 
 derwald, and another to Wiesbaden to 
 see the famous and beautiful watering 
 place, which was once the home of a 
 well-known Owegoan. From Mayence 
 I went to Frankfort-on-the-Main, the 
 largest town in the valley of the Rhine 
 above Cologne. Then a few hours at 
 Darmstadt and on to Heidelberg, fa- 
 mous for its old castle and and its uni- 
 versity. The next day took me to Mann- 
 heim, whence I visited Worms and 
 Spires, famous in the hiatory of Luther. 
 My next move was to Carlsrnhe, the 
 capital of Baden, and then to Baden- 
 Baden, the ancient capital and the mod- 
 ern resort. Two days followed at Strass- 
 bnrg, the capital of Aisace. Then I 
 hurried on by Colmar, Alt Breisach and 
 Freiburg to Basle. 
 
 In Switzerland I spent thirteen days, 
 visiting, after Basle, Berne, Interlaken, 
 Lauterbrunnen, Grindelwald, Lucerne 
 and Zurich. The three days from Basle 
 to my return to Interlakeu from Grin- 
 delwald were as perfect as the heart of 
 man could desire, and all by my lone- 
 some I was supremely happy. At Zu- 
 rich I met American friends, and, for 
 the first time in over three weeks, could 
 carry on conversation with people whose 
 native tongue was the same as mine 
 then, for once, the "tranquil" Dutcher, 
 as I have come to be known, talked 
 loquaciously. After five days at Zurich, 
 where I also had the pleasure of meet- 
 ing Bishop Vincent, I visited the Falls 
 of the Rhine, near Schaffhausen, which, 
 in American eyes, are a very humble af- 
 fair. Then an hour at Schaffhau- 
 sen, and another at Constance, crogsing 
 the Lake of Constance to Lindau a 
 rather long day. 
 
After a night at Lindau I went di- 
 rectly to Munich, where I arrived on 
 the 18th of September, and settled down 
 for a three week's stay, daring v;hica I 
 met several friends and went with three 
 of them to Oberammergau. The visit 
 to this little country town was a most 
 delightful one and the Passion Play is 
 something long to be remembered. 
 From Munich I also made a side trip to 
 Augsburg, Ulm and Stuttgart, and 
 then went on by the way of Ratisbon, 
 Nuremburg, and Bamberg to Leipsic, 
 where I rejoined my friend on the night 
 of Monday, October 15th. There we 
 spnt a week with our companion on 
 the voyage over, and paid visits to the 
 battle-fields of Leipsic and Lutzeu 
 where Gnstavus Adolphus was killed. 
 Once more we parted, my friend going 
 to Berlin, while I went on a four day's 
 trip in which I visited Jena, Weimar, 
 Gotha, Eisenach, Messeberg and Halle. 
 After a night in Leipsic, I went on to 
 Dresden for a week, returning by the 
 way of Meissen, where Dresden china is 
 made, to Leipsic again. I made a stop 
 of a few hours at Wittenberg on my 
 way to Berlin, where I spent three 
 weeks with my friend. Short stops, at 
 Brunswick, Hanover, Hildesheim, Got- 
 tingen and Cassel, brought me back, as 
 I have already related, by the way of 
 Cologne and Aix-la Chapelle to Paris. 
 It was just becoming Thanksgiving 
 day when I arrived in Paris, where I 
 stsyed for three months and a half, at- 
 tending lectures, studying a little, 
 learning a little French and doing a 
 good deal of sight-seeing. From Paris 
 I made brief excursions to St. Denisj, 
 St Germain en-Laye and Versailles. 
 
 At 10:10 P. M. March 13, 1901, I left 
 Paris, and, after a twenty one hours' 
 journey, was back in the city of my de- 
 lightMunich, where I was joined 
 about an hour later by my friend who 
 had come from bis winter in Berlin. 
 There I spent two nights and a day with 
 him, revisiting the things that had 
 afforded me so much pleasure six months 
 before. I also had the pleasure of visit- 
 ing the studio of Lenbach, the famous 
 portrait painter and friend of Bismarck, 
 
about whom there is an interesting arti- 
 cle in a recent number (February, I 
 think) of Harper's .Monthly. There was 
 one other pleasure before bidding Mu- 
 nich goodby we wont to the Court 
 Theatre to see Schiller's Jung f ran von 
 Orleans, which was splendidly given. 
 Later, we went to the Cafe Luithfold, 
 which the Munchener's boast is one of 
 the finest in the world, and so it is, 
 and it has yet another virtue, low pri- 
 cea There we drank our cocoa and 
 completed the plans which we are now 
 .1 rying out of that, next time, 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 GEORGE M. BUTCHER. 
 
OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, MAY 9, 1901. 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Dutcher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting better. 
 
 BOLOGNA, April 3, 1901. 
 My Dear Sir : 
 
 From the Rhine country to Vienna is 
 a long leap geographically, bat a longer 
 one in time, and a still longer one men- 
 tally, for me. In the seven months that 
 elapsed between my arrival at Mayence 
 on August 21, 1900, and my departure 
 from Paris on March 13, 1901, I had 
 travelled more than in all my life before, 
 and had seen, beard and learned more 
 than in any two or three years of my 
 life. Travelling and sight-seeing de- 
 mand every bit of physical and mental 
 effort that one can put forth, but at the 
 same time they strengthen and develop 
 both mind >md body, ard make them 
 capable of aull further effort When I 
 reached Paris at the end of November, 
 I was not at all tired, bat thoroughly 
 glad that I was not going to move again 
 for three months; and in March, when I 
 left Paris, I was weary and did not 
 want to Btart out- Yet now that I am 
 on the road I am feeling splendidly and 
 am jnst as eager as can be imagined to 
 keep moving and seeing new things. I 
 sometimes wonder how it will seem to 
 come back to little Owego with no 
 grand boulevards, no ancient buildings, 
 DO art galleries, and none of the dozens 
 of things which are so delightful and 
 interesting to me here, I atii sure it will 
 be at least a little bit strange. 
 
 I left Paris, as I have already said, i~ \ 
 search of pastures new and ventures 
 strange at 10:10 P. M , on March 13. A"* j 
 far as the frontier, I traveled second 
 class, so that I might get a reasonable 
 chance to sleep. At Deutsch-Avricour< 1 
 I was turned out at five o'clock to pa&e ; 
 the German customs examinatior i 
 which was readily done. Then I b\ii \ 
 
my morning coffee, or more correctly 
 chickory, and rolls at the station restau 
 rant and clambered into a third class 
 carriage for the rest of my journey. I 
 promptly fonnd myself talking with 
 two old Alsatian women and a yonng 
 fe-low from Constantinople. On learning 
 that I was from America one old woman 
 hastened to tell me that h*r son was a 
 baker in Minneapolis. ' Taen yonr son 
 is rich V"' said the Constantiuopolitan, 
 in a half query, which applied that all 
 Americans were rich, This remark he 
 proceeded to amplify by informing the 
 old lady that the Americans became 
 rich rapidly because they took a cold 
 bath every morning. He turned to me 
 for approval, which I promptly gave, 
 regarding the slight stretching of the 
 truth as a small matter compared with 
 the loss of national prestige that would 
 follow upon any qualification of the 
 statement which was at least good 
 enough to be true. I also made a men- 
 tal note to the effect that the converse 
 was true, at any rate 1 did not succeed 
 in getting a cold bath every morning 
 over here, and I am getting poor at a 
 rate that is perfectly startling. Between 
 the youth from Constantinople and the 
 March McClure's, I managed to while 
 away the long hours until 7:10 P. M., 
 when we pulled into Munich. 
 
 I went directly to the boarding house 
 where 1 had stayed last September. The 
 good Fran was delighted to see me, and, 
 in reply to my question whether she had 
 a room for me, said, "Why, you have 
 stayed with me once, of course you can 
 have a room." As I have already writ- 
 ten, my friend arrived from Berlin an 
 hour later, and we passed two nights 
 and a day together in Munich. On the 
 morning of Saturday, I had to be up be- 
 fore the sun and leave at 6:46, but I car- 
 ried with me the pleasantest memories 
 that I have of any European city. 
 
 It was 11:20 when we crossed the 
 boundary of Austria and stopped at 
 Salzburg. After rushing through the 
 customs house,! started out to make the 
 best of my brief stay in the city. This 
 town of nearly thirty thousand inhabi- 
 tants lies on both banks of the Salzach, 
 
a tributary of the Inn, which, in turn, is 
 a tributary of the Danube. For centuries 
 it was the capital and seat of a Prince- 
 Bishop, who ruled the surrounding coun- 
 try, and at the same time looked after 
 the ppiritual welfare of his subjects. 
 Since the overthrow of Napoleon, Salz- 
 burg has belonged to Austria. The town 
 owes its ft. me" chiefly to its beautiful 
 situation, which rivals that of the most 
 picturesque German town, such as 
 Heidelberg and Baden-Baden. On every 
 side the town is hemmed in by high hills 
 crowned with ancient castles or mon- 
 asteries; and through the city and 
 among the hills winds the little river. 
 Its other gr^at claim to fame is as the 
 birthplace of Mozart. In the town it- 
 self there is little to gee, the chief places 
 of interest being the old churches. The 
 real sights are the views from the hills, 
 none of which I had time to ascend, but 
 what I could see from the town itself, 
 assured me of the pictureequeness of the 
 scenery. 
 
 From Salzburg to Vienna is 195 miles, 
 and took me from 2:23 to 9:15. The trip 
 was without special incident, though I 
 was busy observing a new country and 
 a new nationality and making mental 
 notes about Austria's third class carri- 
 ages. As I learned by experience one 
 may travel almost as comfortably third 
 class as second, or one may travel third- 
 class aa uncomfortably as fourth-class 
 in Germany. The point is that the third- 
 class carriages consist of two distinct 
 halves; one-half consisting of two or 
 three compartments, each accommodat- 
 ing in theory eight persons, but in actual 
 practice only two or three; the remain- 
 der of the carriage i* one large compart 
 ment, which is generally filled to the 
 limit with the very poor classes and 
 those traveling a short distance. The 
 smaller compartments are apt to be 
 locked and a small fee to the conductor 
 opens one of them for yon and closes it 
 to all others. Sometimes one is lucky 
 enough to find a compartment open and 
 unoccupied, then possession is nine 
 points of the law and you proceed to 
 have the nine points on your side. In 
 going to these average towns, be it of 
 
10,000 or 300,000, one thinks nothing of 
 it, for he knows that within fifteen 
 minutes he will find a good cheap hotel 
 or pension and will forthwith be at 
 home. In approaching a city of more 
 than a million population, however, a 
 certain feeling of dread and of being 
 lost comes over one, and there is a little 
 question in one's mind as to what is to 
 become of him in the great city. It was 
 raining, and the streets were dark and 
 wet and dirty, and I had no idea of where 
 I was to go when I reached Vienna. I 
 finally found a street car and got aboard 
 and after a long ride, a transfer and an- 
 other long ride reached the neighbor- 
 hood oi; the university. There I quick- 
 ly found a pension of which I had the 
 address, and was soon provided with a 
 room and a dinner, and felt ready for 
 anything that might happen. 
 
 Sunday dawned clear and bright and 
 spring-like. Nearby was the beautiful 
 new Votive church, erected in commeno- 
 ration of Kaiser Francis Joseph's escape 
 from assassination in 1853. Not know- 
 ing any better I went there for the ten 
 o'clock, mass that being the time at which 
 the best music is to be heard. I learned 
 afterwards that I should have gone to 
 the Church of St. Auguatine. After 
 that I hunted out, as usual, an English 
 service this time it was a Scotch Pres- 
 byterian church. In the afternoon I 
 went out to continue my investigations 
 of how the Venese spend Sunday. This, 
 time my way led to the Prater, which is 
 at once the Central Park and the Coney 
 Island of Vienna, though the two parts 
 are quite distinct. The Coney Island part 
 s known as the Volks-Prater (People's 
 Prater) or more properly the Wurstel 
 (buffoon) Prater. Here the poorer classes 
 gather in great numbers to spend their 
 coppers and enjoy their brief holidays. 
 The chief attractions are Punch and 
 Judy shows, merry go-rounds, shooting 
 galleries and strength-machines, with 
 all sorts of brass bands, music boxes, 
 and two-penny fakirs. Of course the 
 place would not be complete without 
 innumerable restaurants with an illim- 
 itable supply of beer. I have seen few 
 sights in Europe more interesting than 
 
that of these poor people enjoying their 
 Sunday afternoon. A minute's walk 
 took ine across the great social gnlf, 
 and I fonnd myself promenading with 
 the elite of Vienna or rather with so 
 mnch of the elite as was not driving, 
 for everyone who owned a' turnout, or 
 could hire one, was driving. The sight 
 was no less interesting than that in the 
 Volks-Prater, but it lacked the zest. 
 The chief places of resort for the upper 
 classes are three large restaurants along 
 the main driveway known as the Three 
 Cafe's, at which military bands furnish 
 the music. The Viennese were the best 
 dressed people I had yet seen in 
 Europe. There are not only plenty of 
 expensive gowns to be seen as in Mu- 
 nich, or Berlin, or Paris, but there was 
 also once in awhile one that was well 
 made ai.d which fitted properly. The 
 men too were better dressed in better 
 taste, th ugh they too often carried it 
 to the exteit of being mere dandies. 
 One of the things that promptly strikes 
 
 the American eye, whether in Berlin, or 
 Paris, or Vienna, is that unmarried 
 sisters, regardless of age and looks, 
 dress alike, just an twins are accustomed 
 to do in America. The ecclesiastic is not 
 very numerous in Vienna, but the sol- 
 dier is omnipresent in large numbers. 
 Vienna supplies a greater variety of uni- 
 forms than I have seen elsewhere, and 
 it is little wonder that the nobby looking 
 officers have slight trouble in finding 
 plenty of admirers among the gentler 
 sex. The officer promenades with his 
 lady friends in the Ilannt Allee (The 
 Main Drive), while the humbler private 
 finds his admirers in the Volks-Prater, 
 The horses are sure to attract one's at- 
 tention. The Viennese have the finest 
 and best-groomed and best treated 
 horses that I have yet seen in Europe. 
 The crack of the lash is a sound agree- 
 ably rare to one who has had his ears 
 eplit with the sound for three months 
 in Paris. By way of history I most add 
 that the Prater was formerly an impe- 
 rial hunting park which the Emperor Jo- 
 seph II opened as a public park in 1770. 
 In 1873 it was the site of the Interna- 
 tional Exposition. 
 
The centre of old Vienna, around 
 which the life of the city revolves, ia 
 the cathedral chnrch of St. Stephen, 
 whose spire towers far above the rest 
 of the city. The Steffel, as it is nick- 
 named in the Viennese dialect, is the 
 scene of ma^y a tale and song one of 
 the later having ranch the same senti- 
 ment as our own "Old Oaken Bucket," 
 about "How dear to my heart are the 
 scenes of my childhood." Like all these 
 great churches it is a patchwork of the 
 ages. For seven hundred years archi- 
 tect after architect has lent a hand to 
 help on the completion of the great, 
 church, and still it is uncompleted and 
 constant repairs are necessary to keep 
 the ancient parts in respectable shape. 
 So accustomed have the Viennese be- 
 come to see their cathedral with its sm- 
 gle spire, wbilw tha one continues to be 
 represented by only a *tnb of a tower, 
 that the second spire will probably nev- 
 er be added, for it would be as sacri- 
 ligious to the Viennese, as it would to 
 the Parisians to wake up some morning 
 and find Notre Datue properly finished 
 off with spires. The chnrch contains 
 the tomb of the famous Prince Eagene 
 and the magnificent sarcophagus of 
 Etnperor Frederick III. 
 
 The tourist is surprised at the small 
 number of churches which he must "do"' 
 in Vienna as compared with Italy or 
 I France or Southern Germany Next to 
 St. Stephen's, the most interesting is 
 the Capuchin church, and that for the 
 single reason that it contains the tombs 
 of the imperial family for the past three 
 hundred years. The vault is rar under- 
 ground and extends beneath the church. 
 The most noticeable tomb is that of 
 Maria Thereea and her husband. It is 
 very large and splendidly decorated, be- 
 ing made of bronze At the foot of it 
 stands a plain leaden box with no mark 
 or decoration. Such is the tomb of 
 Maria Theresa's son, Joseph II., the 
 noblest, if not the greatest, of the Haps- 
 burgs. Nearby stand side by side the 
 coffins of Maria Louisa, the wife of Na- 
 poleon, and of their son, Napoleon II., 
 now known as L'Aiglon. Just across 
 the aisle rests the Archduke Charles, 
 
the greatest general that ever crossed 
 swords with Napoleon. Two richly 
 decorated coffins, covered with wreaths, 
 bring to inind the two tragedies which 
 have robbed the aged Kaiser of his son 
 and of his wife, the Crown " Prince 
 Rudolph and the Empress Elizabeth. 
 Through this solemn place we are escort- 
 ed by a fine old Capnchin monk who rev- 
 erently explains the plac^ to us and 
 stops at the last two tombs to say a 
 prayer for the sonls of the departed 
 while we all stand with bowed heads. 
 As we pass ont, a little silver tray re- 
 ceives what elsewhere would be a tip, 
 but here is an alms for the poor. The 
 Court Chnrch is dedicated to St. Angus- 
 tine and contains tombs of a few mem- 
 bers of the Imperial family, notably 
 one to the Arch Duchess Maria Chris- 
 tina, a daughter of Marie Theresa, who 
 ruled Belgium when it was still known 
 as the Austrian Netherlands. Her beau- 
 tiful tomb is one of Canova's master 
 pieces. In the church of the Scottish 
 Benedictines, is the tomb of Count Star- 
 hembnrg, who defended Vienna against 
 the Turks in 1683. None of the Vie- 
 nese churches except St. Stephen's and 
 the Votive Church can lay any claims 
 to architectural beauty In one of the 
 suburbs stands a huge, almost ugly, 
 church erected in the 18th century as a 
 thank offering for the cessation of the 
 plague. 
 
 I have told you of Vienna's churches 
 and of Sunday in Vienna, and will next 
 time tell of the secular and week-day 
 city. Yours very truly, 
 
 GEORGE M. DUTCHER. 
 
OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, MAY 23, 1901. 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Dutcher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting tetter. 
 
 ROME, April 23, 1901. 
 My Dear Sir: 
 
 In a far country, one is ever on the 
 lookont for friends and acquaintances, 
 or even friend's friends. So it was with 
 uie in Vienna. The last letter I had re- 
 ceived from home contained the brief 
 statement that Merle Downs had sailed 
 on snch a day for Europe, where he 
 was to act as agent for an automobile 
 company in Vienna. Such scanty infor 
 mation was all 1 had to aid me in finding 
 a friend in a city of a million and a half 
 population. I began my search on Sun- 
 day afternoon during my walk in the 
 Prater and elsewhere, keeping my eyes 
 wide open for every automobile. Luck, 
 however, was against me and I was 
 hastening back to my pension for din- 
 ner, pondering what means I should 
 try next, when there stared me in the 
 face the words "American Locomobile 
 Company." An investigation promptly 
 revealed that a store was being fitted 
 up as an agency for automobiles, but 
 was not yet opened. Here at least was 
 a good starter for further search. Ac- 
 cordingly, on Monday morning, my first 
 act was to return to the store to make 
 inquiries, but only to be greeted with 
 the sign, "No admission." Fortunately 
 that sign has ceased to scare me as 
 ranch as it once did, so- I boldly rapped 
 on the window and attracted the atten- 
 tion of one of the workmen, who opened 
 the door and greeted me courteously. 
 "Is Herr Downs here?" I asked. A 
 slightly puzzled look was all the reply 
 I got, so I proceeded to describe him as 
 "a young American just arrived." 
 Light began to break. Was it the 
 Herr Engineer 1 wanted to see?" I re- 
 plied that it was and was told to call 
 

 
again in the afternoon. I went on with 
 my morning's sightseeing, and directly 
 after luncheon returned to follow npuiy 
 cine. This time ray rap on the window 
 had the effect of causing a young fellow 
 who was sitting in an automobile in the 
 show window, to leap ont and open the 
 door. His "Well, old man, I am glad 
 to see yon," ended my search, and a few 
 minntes later I was enjoying my first 
 automobile ride, and meditating on the 
 carious fact that it should be in Vienna 
 and yet with an Owegoan. Several 
 times afterwards we got together and 
 talked over the old times, and the new. 
 One of the curious facts that came out 
 was thflt my letter about Coblenz in 
 which I had told of my search for a col- 
 lar was published in the TIMES the week 
 before Merle sailed, and had induced 
 him to lay in a supply. I had not yet 
 received my copy of the TIMES contain- 
 ing that letter and it did not reach me 
 till more than a week later when I ar- 
 rived at Venice. 
 
 } also had an experience in lookng up 
 a friend's friend, who is at present Sec- 
 retary of legation at Vienna. One of 
 the professors at Cornell had given me 
 alerter of introduction to a former school 
 and college friend who is at present secre- 
 tary of legation of Vienna. I called at 
 the embassy and presented my letter 
 and received a cordial greeting. Mr. 
 Secretary had official engagements for 
 the afternoon, but would I meet him at 
 the Hotel Bristol the next afternoon, if 
 so he would be most delighted to show 
 me some of the less known sights of Vi- 
 ennasome bits of old Vienna. I as- 
 sured him the delight would be all mine. 
 Tuesday afternoon found me on band 
 at the appointed hour of four o'clock, 
 and for two hours I was shown some- 
 thing of how the other half lives. First 
 we cut directly across the old city, 
 down through a little street lined with 
 Jewish second-hand clothes shops, 
 where we were assailed on all sides by 
 thrifty Israelites willing to clothe us in 
 the latest fashion of the ghetto for half 
 of nothing. Then we came out on the 
 quay along the Danube canal, and di- 
 rectly turned into a little narrow fide 
 

 
street with apparently nothing in it but 
 bare walls. However, a door opened, 
 and we were admitted to two little 
 rooms filled with the fames of tobacco 
 and beer. Seated abont the dozen 
 rough wooden tables were to be seen 
 people from every grade of society ex- 
 cept the two extremes of aristocracy 
 and poverty. The beer was kept and 
 dealt out as it had been in this sanio 
 little hole in the wall for centuries. 
 The waiters had little wicker baskets 
 holding a half dozen glasses and with 
 
 these made innumerable trips to the 
 cellar keeping the customers provided 
 with "Bier frisch vom Fass." The 
 great interest attaching to this place 
 is that it is the real original head- 
 quarters for the original Pilsiner 
 beer, and so to this day it is 
 the proper place for lovers of Pilsener to 
 visit, although there are many splendid- 
 ly furnished, up-to-date places that 
 might be patronized, The next place 
 was not far off; in a street which cen- 
 turies ago was one of the chief of the 
 city's thoroughfares. This time,i istead 
 of being a hole in the wall, it was a hole 
 in the ground. A flight of about thirty 
 steps took us, far from the light of day, 
 in to two rudely furnished little rooms, 
 lighted with lamps Here was a rollick- 
 ing, roistering, crowd of fifty men, wo- 
 men and children drinking mead. These 
 were the genuinely poor people, but 
 here in Mie afternoon, during work hours, 
 they managed to get time to listen to the 
 orchestra, which consisted of a zither 
 and a fiddle, and to join in lustily as 
 some of their popular songs were rmi- 
 derered. "At the little sweet place," as 
 this establishment is called, people have 
 gathered and snni-r their songs and drank 
 their mead sihco the year of grace 1H24, 
 as is duly attested by a formidable docu- 
 ment upon the wall. Fnrther on. wo 
 passed the grim and grimy old palace 
 of the famous Hungarian family of 
 Esterhazy. Turning into a narrow al- 
 ley we entered a side door and descend- 
 ed two long flights of stairs to what is 
 probably the oldest and most fauiouo 
 wine cellar in Vienna. The Esterhazya 
 have always owned extensive estates in 
 
Hungary, npon which are grown the 
 beat vintages of Hungarian wines. Now 
 many, many generations ago. the wine 
 merchants of Vienna shortened the qual- 
 ity of their wares -and at the same time 
 lengthened the price, whereat the poor 
 Viennese complained long and loudly, 
 bat without effect. Prince Esterhazy 
 recalled with pride that his wine cellar 
 was famed not only as the largest in the 
 city, but also for the excellent quality 
 O'. its contents. Ho reflected further 
 that he could well afford to sell his pure 
 wines at such a price that the poor peo- 
 ple could afford to buy them in prefer- 
 ence to the adulterated article with 
 which the market was flooded, even 
 hough the prices should fall to their 
 normal figure. This truly was a chance 
 >f obtaining popularity, not only with- 
 out cost, but even at a handsome profit. 
 So, from that day to this the Esterhazy 
 Keller has been opened each af'ernoon 
 ! rom five o'clock till aeven and the poor 
 have flocked thither to buy them, the 
 lest wines at the lowest prices. About the 
 ellar are arranged several enormous 
 wine barrels, and about the walls runs 
 a rough wooden bench over which, just 
 ibove the heads of the people, is abroad 
 ledge on which the people rest their 
 wine glasses between drinks. If the 
 place itself is interesting, its patrons 
 are far more so. Of this there is excel- 
 lent testimony. You will recall that for 
 about two years Mark Twain lived in 
 Vienna. Among the places to which 
 he lovetl to resort to study human na- 
 ture was the Esterhazy Keller, and an- 
 other was the little bier restaurant 
 which I mentioned first. The ways of 
 the Viennese wine merchant seem to be 
 as devious to-day as they were four cen- 
 turies ago, for recently there was such 
 complaint about the quality arid price 
 of wine, that when the city built its 
 beautiful new Rathhaus, or city hall, a 
 few years ago, the city fathers decided 
 to fit up a winecellar in the basement 
 where good wine should be sold at a 
 reasonable price. Accordingly the Ratb- 
 haus Keller was fitted up with first, sec- 
 ond, and third class rooms. The fur- 
 nishiugs, the service and the prices dif- 
 
fering somewhat in the three .apart- 
 ments, which are almost three separate 
 restaurants. Not only wines are served 
 bnt also regular meals. Throughout 
 Germany there are many ratbhans kel- 
 lera and they are generally among the 
 best and cheapest of the restaurants. 
 I have described this afternoon visit to 
 fonr famous places of resort, becanso 
 they are (jaite different from anything 
 in America A place in America like 
 any of the first three would bo a dirty 
 disreputable hole, of such character 
 one would feel that he was taking his 
 life in his hands to enter it, while in 
 each of these the people were orderly 
 and well-behaved, though perhaps some 
 were a Itttle too good natnred. Drunk- 
 ness and the accornpaning evils do not 
 exiat in Europe, so far as my observa- 
 tion goes, in the forms that are so un- 
 pleasantly familiar in America. By 
 that I do not mean to say that the evils 
 of intempeaance do not exist in Europe, 
 for they do and in a very marked de- 
 gree, bnt rarely does it take the form of 
 drunkenness as we know it. I have 
 seen people somewhat intoxicated, and 
 I have seen one case of what was appar- 
 ently delirum trernens, bnt the "plain 
 drunk" does not exist. The Parisian 
 cab drivers probably come the nearest 
 to being a ''drunken set" of any class 
 found in Europe, and that is because afc 
 each cab stand there is a "Cabby's sa- 
 loon" where cabby drinks large quanti- 
 ties of cheap wine of questionable qual- 
 ity, and as a result, cabby is frequently 
 "half seas over" or "nas a good grouch." 
 Having made a superficial study of 
 the temperance question in Vienna, I 
 will turn now to art and science and 
 things less vexatious to contemplate. 
 The ancient walls which enclosed only 
 I the first of the nineteen wards of the 
 i present city, were levelled in 1857, and 
 their place is now occupied by a fine 
 boulevard, or ringstrasse, and by numer- 
 ous fine new buildings, including sev- 
 eral erected for public purposes. Going 
 southward from the Votive' church, one 
 passes in order the university, the city 
 hall, the theatre, the parliament house, 
 the volksgarten, the supreme court 
 

building, the natural history museum, 
 the art history museum, the new wing of 
 the imperial palace and the opera. I 
 doubt if anywhere else so many fine 
 new public buildings can be seen in a 
 ten minutes walk. The university, the 
 "Rathiaus" or city hall, the "Reichs- 
 Raths-gebauede'' or parliament house, 
 and the 'Justiz Palast' or supreme court 
 building, each occupy a whole square and 
 possess very fine exteriors, and the hasty 
 glimpse I caught of their interiors as- 
 sured me that they would have been 
 worthy of further inspection had my 
 stay in Vienna been longer 
 
 [TO BE CONTINUED.] 
 
 ~OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, MAY 30. 1901. 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Dutcher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting; T>eUer. 
 
 ROME, April 23, 1901. 
 My Dear Sir- 
 
 [CONTINUED ] 
 
 The Hof-Bnrg theatre pleased me 
 better than any other theatre or opera 
 house that I have seen. The architecture 
 and the ornamentation both of exterior 
 and interior are in porfect taste, and 
 are rich. It is far from being as large 
 or as luxurious and ornate as the Opera 
 at Paris, but is far more pleasing and 
 comfortable. The seating capacity is 
 2,000, which is 150 less than in the Opera 
 at Paris. The cheapest seats, even, 
 are neatly upholstered, and comfortable, 
 and afford a good view of the stage- 
 three rare and excellent qualities. The 
 opera is about twenty years older than 
 the theatre, having been built during 
 the sixties. It is larger and seats two 
 jLmadred more than toe larger Opera at 
 Pans. The building is far from being 
 the gc-m that the theatre is, but is 
 still one of the finest in the world. 
 Its decorations were largely executed by 
 Moritz von Schwind, one of the most 
 
pleasing German artists of the nine- 
 teenth century. The great size of the 
 stage is one of the noteworthy features 
 of the building. The prices of seats for 
 grand opera are agreeably small for one 
 who has known nothing bnt the exces- 
 sive charges in New York and the other 
 large American cities. The best seat;! 
 at the opera anywhere in Ge-riaany can 
 be had for about three dollars, good seats 
 can be had for a dollar and often even 
 ie*s. The cheapest seats are fifty cent? 
 or sometime less These prices are apt 
 to be raised somewhat for Wagner, arid 
 during the tonrist season, and occasion- 
 ally for some special reason. In Ger- 
 man speaking lands, the important feat- 
 nre ot the opera is the rendering of the 
 music, both by the orchestra arid by the 
 orchestra and by the singers, though 
 perhaps nowhere else is such great care 
 given to the stage setting The absolute 
 silence that reigns in a German opera 
 house from the first strain of the over 
 Lure to the last note of the last act is an 
 object lesson that might well be enforced 
 in other lands. Nowhere else can one 
 bear so much good music so well and HO 
 cheap. There is no little rivalry among 
 the Operas at Berlin, Dresden, Munich 
 and Vienna as to which gives the Wag- 
 ner operas best. In France and in Italy 
 far more attention is given to the pro- 
 duction of the ballet, and less to the 
 musical rendering, and it is not alwajs 
 that one can hear the music, undisturbed 
 by the whispers and giggles of his neigh- 
 bors. Both the theatre and the opera are 
 under the control of the court, which 
 explains to some extent the excellence 
 of the performance and the cheapness 
 of the prices. Another place for public 
 amusement, under government control, 
 i the Volksgarten, which is a part of 
 the park adjoining the imperial palace, 
 which has been opened to the public. 
 The large garden house contains an ex- 
 cellent restaurant. Every Sunday and 
 Thursday afternoon and evening band 
 concerts are given; in winter in the gar- 
 den house, in summer in the open air. 
 The public sit at tables and eat or drink, 
 and chat according to their mood, and 
 when the conversation lags,listen to the 
 

 
music till farther inspiration comes. At 
 the Philharmonic, the corresponding 
 place in Berlin, absolute silence exists 
 during the music, which is rendered by 
 an orchestra instead of a band. The 
 Philharmonic is a private business, and 
 the music is more classic. In both cases 
 these cafe- restaurants are frequented 
 only by the better classes and are always 
 well filled, often crowded. 
 
 My description brings me next to the 
 two Muaenin buildings. Just opposite 
 the imperial palace is a large square, 
 beautifully laid out, in the centre of 
 which rises a collossal bronze rnonn 
 ment to Maria Theresa. The adjoining 
 squares on either side are occupied by 
 the two splendid new museum buildings 
 Externally the two structures are ex 
 actly alike, except as regards the sculp- 
 tural ornamentation, which is varied 
 to accord with r,h ctmtouts or the 1-uiiu 
 ing. They are built of stone of a rich 
 dark brown color. The interiors vary 
 somewhat in arrangement to accommo ' 
 date their respective collections, but ' 
 both alike are finished in the richest and 
 handsomest fashion and every care has 
 been taken to display the collections in 
 the most convenient manner and to tht 
 best advantage. I doubt if there exists 
 anywhere two such magnificent build- 
 ings erected specifically as museums. 
 The natural history collection is cer- 
 tainly the best arranged one that I have 
 seen, and in contents, I think, the best 
 all around museum of its sort, though 
 the separate departments are surpassed 
 by otner museums. In two or three 
 sections, however, it is unrivalled. It 
 contains the largest collection of meteo- 
 rites, and the most complete collection 
 of fishes in existence. 
 
 The Art History Museum, of course, 
 interested me far more. There is a 
 collection of antiquities which contain? 
 several objects of importance. The col- 
 lections representing industrial art are 
 bewildering in the number of beautiftr 
 things which they contain, and in cer- 
 tain departments are unrivalled. The 
 pride of the museum is the collection of 
 armor, the finest in the world, though 
 I think there are more suits of armor in 
 the Hotel des Invalides at Paris Here 
 are preserved the beautifully wrought 
 and richly adorned suits of armor of 
 
many emperors, kings, princes, and 
 famous men. Special mention might be 
 made of the armor and weapons of the 
 Emperor Charles V. There are also the 
 dress swords and pistols of many prin- 
 ces and generals and numerous marshal's 
 batons. The part of the mnseum of 
 greatest interest is the splendid picture 
 gallery. It is one of the best all-aromid 
 collections of paintings in Europe. The 
 Hapsburgs, the Austrian imperial farni 
 iy, were until the present century the 
 nominal rulers of all Germany, and 
 during the eighteenth century they 
 were the actual rulers of the Catholic 
 Netherlands, now Belgium, and until 
 forty years ago, of a large part of Italy. 
 These fact, connected with the intimate 
 family relations with the Spanish royal 
 family, explain the excellency of the 
 collection in the works of German, 
 Flemish, Italian and Spanish masters. 
 The two greatest German masters, 
 Duerer and the younger Holbein, are 
 represented by some of their master 
 pieces. The leaser masters, especially 
 the eighteenth century, are well repre- 
 sented, but the nineteenth century Ger : 
 mans are not so well favored, their 
 places being taken by several Austrians, 
 whose works are seldom seen elsewhere, 
 the best of whom is Makarts. In the 
 Flemish school, the collection is very 
 rich. Other galleries may have more 
 works of Rubens, but nowhere else have 
 1 seen him to such good advantage, for 
 the pictures at Vienna do not offend by 
 their grossness, as is so often the case. 
 Van Dyck is equally well represented, 
 and some of tne lesser men, such as 
 Teniers, have several works to their 
 credit. Scarcely a single great Italian 
 is without as least one work at Vienna. 
 The Venetian school is especially well 
 represented, though Titian easily out- 
 ranks all others both in the number and 
 the excellency of his works. Of the 
 great Spaniards, both Murillo and Ve- 
 lasquez have contributed some of their 
 best works. The various Dutch schools 
 are not without representation, the 
 
landscape painters especially having 
 furnished some of their finest works 
 Curiously enough, and yet not without 
 reason, there is scarcely a single work 
 by a French or an English painter, and 
 I think not even a lone representative 
 of American art. 
 
 In the academy of fine arts, there is 
 also an extensive collection of paint- 
 ings, but only a few of the great names 
 are worthily represented. The various 
 Austrian painters and several of the 
 modern masters, however, have several 
 works credited to them. Of the new 
 paintings, as in Munich, there are semi- 
 annual exhibitions, representing the 
 two schools of art. The largest and by 
 far the best exhibition is the work of 
 what might be called the "regulars" or 
 the "old school," to distinguish from 
 the work of the more erratic of the 
 younger generation, who call themsel- 
 ves the "Secesssion." It was my good 
 fortune to see the spring exhibition or 
 "salon" of each of these schools. Of 
 the "Secession" works, I seldom found 
 one that pleased me, but in the regular 
 exhibition I readily found much to 
 admire. 
 
 The imperial palace, in its oldest 
 parts, dates from the middle of the fif- 
 teenth century, but was largely con- 
 structed by Maria Thersa. The presenr 
 Emperor has begun a large new wing of 
 the palace, which was to have been the 
 home of the unfortunate Crown Prince 
 Rudolph, but since his death the work 
 has not been pushed so vigorously as 
 formerly. As the Emperor was in resi- 
 dence during my stay in Vienna I was 
 unable to visit the interior of the pal- 
 ace, with the exception of the imperial 
 treasury, in which are preserved the 
 imperial insignia of the Holy Roman 
 Empire, besides numerous jewels and 
 relics relating to Maria Thersa, and 
 other members of the imperial family. 
 Of the other objects of interests in Vi- 
 enna, 1 suppose the numerous fountains 
 end monuments may be mentioned, 
 some for their historic value and some 
 for their artistic merits. The fountain 
 which pleased me best was one in 
 bronze in the New Market, which is 
 
decorated with four figures symbolical 
 of foor of the branches of the Danube. 
 There is a larger fountain in stone re- 
 presenting all the larger rivers of the 
 Empire, but it is almost an eyesore. To 
 my mind the finest monument is the 
 one to Schiller designed by Schilling, 
 the famous Dresden sculptor. Others, 
 however, may prefer the monuments to 
 Mozart. Beethoven or Goethe, all of 
 which are admirable. There was, to be 
 sure, mach which my brief stay in Vi- 
 enna, did not permit me to see, but I 
 did see and have rf counted the things 
 most important and interesting. 
 
 I made two brief trips into the su- 
 burbs, one to Schoenbruuu, the other to 
 Kahlenburg. Schoeabrnnn was once 
 an imperial hunting lodge, which waa 
 later fitted up as a royal residence. In 
 their day, the palace and gardens were 
 considered very fine, and, in fact, are 
 still an object of pride to the Viennese, 
 but to my eye, there was little of beauty 
 or charm in them Its chif interest is 
 as th residence of Napoleon after the 
 battles of Ansterlitz and Wagram, and 
 an the home of his son the Duke of 
 Reichstadt. LTAiglon, who died there 
 in is:'i2 The Kahlenberg is a hill about 
 fivo miles from Vienna, which rises a 
 thousand feet above the city and com- 
 mands a splendid view of Vienna and 
 of the country for miles aronnd, includ- 
 ing several famous battlefield*, such as 
 Aspern and Wagram. It is impossible 
 to understand Vienna until one has had 
 some such view of it and its surround- 
 ings. 
 
 At 7:4o o'clock, on the morning of Sat- 
 urday, the 23d of March,! bade farewell 
 to Vienna, and started for Italy,reaching 
 lanspruck after traveling all day, at 
 9:20 in the evening, where I found my 
 friend waiting for me at the station. 
 The journey is a very tiresome one, 
 though it leads through much charming 
 scenery. One of the curioos phenomena 
 was to pass through a bit of country 
 where there was considerable snow and 
 a snowstorm in progress, arid then sud- 
 denly come upon a landscape with not a 
 sign of snow. At Inuspruck there is lit- 
 tle to see excei: t the famous monument 
 
to the Emperor Maximilian and some 
 relics of Andreas Hofer and his com- 
 patriots. Maximilian's monument fills 
 a large part of the Franciscan or Court 
 church. It consists of a large sarcopha- 
 gns, which, however, does not contain 
 the Emperor's remains, snrronnded by 
 twenty eight bronze statues, larger than 
 
 1 life size. Many of the bronzes are of 
 splendid workmanship, bnt the finest 
 portion of the m on a merit consists of 
 twenty-four marble reliefs on the sides 
 of the sarcophagus. They are so deli- 
 cately wrought that the great Thorwald- 
 sen pronounced them the most perfect 
 work of their kind. The scenery about 
 Innspruck is rugged and picturesque, 
 affording opportunity for many pleasant 
 excursions. We visited Berg-Ieel, a hill 
 overlooking the city, on which occnrred 
 one of Andreas Hofer's battles. From 
 there we walked on to Schloss Ambras, 
 
 i a castle belonging to a member of the 
 Austrian Imperial family. Monday 
 morning we were up bright and early 
 and off for Italy at seven o'clock. The 
 scenery was most picturesque as we 
 climbed the Alps, crossed the Bsenner 
 Pass, and descended to Italy. During 
 the afternoon we stopped at the little 
 town of Ala for the Itaiian customs ex- 
 arninatian, and at 4:20 reached Verona, 
 where another tale begins. 
 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 GEORGE M. DUTCHER. 
 
GO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, JUNE 6, 1901. 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 tJeorge M. Dutcher Writes Another Iiiter- 
 eftting: better. 
 
 CAPRI, May 4, 1901. 
 My Dear Sir- 
 
 I had jnst come down over the moun- 
 tains into Italy at the close of my last 
 letter, now I am in the Blue Grotto Ho- 
 tel on the island of Capri in the Bay of 
 Naples. I might write you dozens of 
 interesting things about Verona, where 
 I first saw Italy ab horns, of Viceriza 
 find its palaces, of Padna and its inter- 
 esting church of St. Anthony who 
 preached to the fishes, and of Venice 
 and its canals. Or I might tell you of 
 Farrara, with wide, straight streets, 
 but as dead as a western town after the 
 "boom" has passed, and of Bologna's 
 arcaded streets, and its towers which 
 overlook miles upon miles of level coun- 
 try and show you the churches of Ra- 
 venna with their ancient mosaics 
 After that, we could go over the Apen- 
 nines together, for a peek at Pistoza, 
 and then pass ten delightful days in 
 Florence and its beautiful environs. 
 The next journey would take us to Or- 
 vieto perched aloft on a precipitous 
 cliff and graced with a beautiful cathe- 
 dral. Then, we would roam amid the 
 ruins of the Roman forum, and through 
 the ancient palaces of the Caesars, or 
 clamber to a point of vantage in the 
 Colosseum. Later we would stroll out 
 to the English cemetery to see the 
 nameless grave of Keats, or out the 
 Appican way to visit the catacombs or 
 to enjoy the view across the Campagna 
 , from the tomb of Cecilia Metella. At 
 | another time we would cross the Tiber 
 i to be awed by the greatness of St. Peter's 
 or to visit the wonderful art collections 
 i which generations of Popes have gath- j 
 i ered in the Vatican. There we might \ 
 
pass honrs in the Sistine Chapel adini?- 
 ing the genius of Michael Angelo, or 
 perhaps climb the stairs tc those apart- 
 ments made sacred by the art of Raph 
 ! ael. Afterwards as the frait and cheese 
 : at the end of this delightful menn we 
 would visit those rninR of brick which 
 were once the marble palaces of Hadri- 
 an, and climb the hill to the casades at 
 Tivoli. 
 
 Instead of permitting yon to enjoy all 
 these delights as I have, I am going to 
 ronte yon out early in the morning to 
 take the 8:20 train. Yon are jnst too 
 late to catch the street car and have to 
 take a cab, bnt don't yon care; it is hot 
 and dnsty, and yon are squeezed in be- 
 tween an ill mannered Italian lieuten- | 
 ant and a fat German woman, and more 
 than that yon are fiercely sleepy, bnt 
 never mind, Its 1:30 when yon are 
 turned out into the Naples mob, but it 
 matters not. 1 shall take you by the 2:00 
 o'clock train to Pompeii. At 2 :30 \* e 
 are dickering with the proprietor of the 
 Hotel Suisse to get your room at the 
 price he should have asked at first. 
 
 Now that you have survived the dis- ! 
 agreeable preface, come with me. and 
 we will visit ancient Pompeii and for- | 
 get our recent tribulations. I know yon 
 will spend half your time in stealing 
 glances at Vesuvius, instead of proper- 
 ly examining the city, which the famous 
 volcano preserved by destroying. No 
 doubt you recall the picture of Vesuvi- 
 us in the old geography which you saw i 
 when you were six years old, and your 
 youthful vow to keep away from such 
 a terrible place. Later you came to 
 know the story of Pompeii and then yon 
 would have liked to just steal a peek 
 into that city of the dead, but your 
 courage was not yet bold. This after- 
 noon, however, you stroll through tfhose 
 vacant streets and into those long un- 
 tenanted houses, and gaza at the moun- 
 tain looming above you and feel that 
 you lead a charmed life. Yes you do, 
 for to-morrow I shall take you up there 
 and let you peer down into the very in- 
 side of that mountain, and sniff the 
 fumes that issue from it, and grow 
 startled as the pent-up steam bursts 
 
forth with a roar and covers yon with 
 cinders. Then yon will understand the 
 charmed life the ancients lead in this 
 little town, and their terror when that 
 charm was suddenly broken on an Au- 
 gnst day nineteen hundred years ago. 
 
 There, put up your pocketbook. I have 
 paid your entrance fee it was only two 
 lire (thirty-eight cents) Now come up 
 this little hill and we v?iil enter by the 
 ancient gate of the city nearest the sea. 
 In the little building at the right we 
 find a small museum with a few inter- 
 esting things of sorts but we will only 
 stop to examine some plaster casts in 
 the cases in the center of the rooms. 
 These casts are, so to speak, the death 
 masks of the victims. In the course of 
 the excavations, the remains of various 
 unfortunates have been discovered. The 
 earth that enclosed and smothered 
 them has preserved their exact form, so 
 that, by filling the cavities with plaster, 
 exact figures of the dead are obtained 
 in the posture of death. Some are flat 
 upon the face, some rest peacefully on 
 the side, others drawn up in agony. 
 Most pitiful of all are the mother and 
 daughter who have perished together in 
 their flight. You look about for the 
 faithful Roman soldier who died at his 
 post, and the gladiator who was fight- 
 ing in the Arena when the disaster oc- 
 curred. They are old friends of whom 
 you have often heard, but they are not 
 here for they are both myths, like all 
 the other things that are too good to be 
 true. Going on towards the Forum we 
 pass a newly excavated site with a few 
 remains of an ancient temple of Apollo 
 sufficiently preserved for us to under 
 stand something of its original form and 
 appearance. On the opposite side of the 
 street are the more extensive remains of 
 the ancient basalica or court house, 
 which like similar buildings in present 
 day Italy probably contained numerous 
 little market booths. The Via Marina, ' 
 the street by which we have entered 
 the city ends at the Forum, with the 
 temple of Apollo on one corner and the 
 basilica on the other. About the Fo- 
 rum, a.e several of the other important 
 buildings of the city. Proceeding along 
 
the west Bide of the Forum back of the 
 Temple of Apollo, yon will note several 
 unimportant structures. In one, were 
 kept the standards of weights and 
 measures, another was perhaps a prison, 
 and another was probably a market ball. 
 The northern end of the Forum is occu- 
 pied by the Temple of Jupiter, which, 
 like that of Apollo, stands on a lofty 
 foundation, and is approached by flights 
 of steps. The building seems to have 
 been ruined by the earthquake of the 
 year 63, and to have been still in ruins 
 when the final destruction of the town 
 occurred. There yet remains standing 
 at the back of the temple, the niches 
 which contained the statues of the deit- 
 ies, and in front several columns hint 
 at the departed glory of the building. 
 Standing just in front of the temple and 
 looking at the columns, you will sud- 
 denly become conscious that your eyes 
 have travelled far beyond the columns, 
 to study the beautiful background of 
 the picture. Once more it is Vesuvius 
 and not the ruins, but we are doing 
 ruins to day, so let us proceed and give 
 them our attention. Adjoining the 
 Temple of Jupiter are two brick arches, 
 which were once encrusted with marble 
 and probably richly ornamented. Near 
 the temple, on the east side of the Fo- 
 rum, is the Macellum or provision mar- 
 ket. This large building, which was in 
 process of erection when the disaster 
 occurred, contained a large and elegant 
 central court, ahd numerous stalls for 
 the tradespeople, besides several other 
 apartments, including a chapel in honor 
 of the imperial family. The walls of 
 the court wore decorated with frescoes. 
 like so many of the bnildings in Pom- 
 peii. The adjoining building was pro- 
 bably the shrine of the local divinities, 
 and the next was dedicated to the Em- 
 peror Vespasion. The priestess Eu- 
 machia was responsible for the erection 
 of the neighboring building, which 
 seems to have been occupied by the wool 
 merchants. Also opening on the Forum 
 are the cvmitium, or voting place, and 
 and three small building, called the 
 tribunals, which are probably occupied 
 by municipal offices. _ 
 
Pompeii had a liberal supply of pub- 
 lic buildings beside those about the Fo- 
 rnin. Notable among these are the 
 three theatres. The great amphitheatre, 
 somewhat similar to the Colosseum in 
 general design, accommodated twenty- 
 thousand spectators. The structure was 
 erected in the first century before our 
 era and had already fallen into disuse 
 before the disaster of the year 79, so that 
 the story that the eruption surprised the 
 people while in attendance on a gladia- 
 torial combat here, is without founda- 
 tion. The great theatre was a much 
 smaller building in the shape of half an 
 amphitheatre, and able to hold five 
 thousand people. Close by is the smal- 
 ler theatre, much the best building and 
 the best preserved, but seating only fif 
 teen hundred spectators. Unlike the 
 other two it was a roofed building. 
 Of the other temples, you will note one 
 dedicated to ^Esculapine, the god of 
 healing, and one to Isis, an Egyptian 
 goddess, whose cult was in vogue in Italy 
 at the beginning of the Christian Era. 
 Of the other public buildings, the most 
 important are the baths, of which three 
 have already been excavated. These 
 baths vary greatly in details of arrange- 
 ment, but all seem to have been pro- 
 vided with a dressing room, a room for 
 tLecold bath, another for the tepid bath, 
 and still another for the warm bath. 
 Of course there were many lesser apart- 
 ments, including private baths and wo- 
 men's baths. Space was also provided 
 for gymnastic and athletic exercises. 
 The arrangements for the supply of wa- 
 ter and for the regulation of the tem- 
 perature of the rooms is surprisingly 
 complete and ingenius. It must be re- 
 membered that though glass was in use 
 in Pompeii, it was sufficiently rare to 
 make the architectural arrangements 
 materially different from those of the 
 presennt day. I believe that there is 
 only a single ca'se where a window glass 
 still occupies its ancient position in the 
 rniiis of the city. 
 
 [CONTINUED NEXT WEEK ] 
 
OWEGO TIMES. 
 
 THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 1901. 
 
 TRAVELING IN EUROPE. 
 
 George M. Dutcher Writes Another Inter- 
 esting; Letter. 
 
 [CONTINUED FROM LAST WEEK.] 
 
 I might go on and escort yon throngh 
 the various shops and honses and dis 
 coarse npon them each at length, but 
 that would make me a lot of trouble 
 and probably only serve to weary you. 
 I shall merely tell you the general plan 
 of the private house, and mention some 
 of the most interesting dwellings. Fac- 
 ing the street on the ground floor, there 
 are generally small apartments consist- 
 ing of one or at most two rooms, which 
 have no connection with the rest of the 
 house, but were used,, as shops, not very 
 unlike the practice of the present day in 
 Italy and even in other countries. A 
 doorway with a narrow vestibule leads 
 to the house proper. Oftentimes this 
 little vestibule is decorated with a char- 
 acteristic mosaic, such as that of the 
 dog with the inscription "Beware of 
 the dog, "in the house of Glaucus. Pass- 
 ing from the vestibule you enter imme- 
 diately the principal room of the house, 
 the atrium. This is a great hall 
 with a Jarge water basin impluvium, in 
 the center, which collected the rain 
 water, the roof above it being open. 
 Opening off of the atrium, were the 
 private apartments of the family, at the 
 sides, and the triclinium or dining- 
 room, and the tablinum, or parlor at 
 the back. Beyond the atrium was the 
 peristyle, a large paved court with a roof 
 supported by several columns. Open- 
 ing from the peristyle were often other 
 private apartments, notably the kitchen, 
 and generally a second dining-room for 
 the hot weather. In the larger and better 
 houses the peristyle was adjoined by a 
 a small garden, not open as with us,but 
 enclosed an'd forming an integral part 
 of the house. The second story seems 
 to have contained the servants' quarters. 
 
The absence of glass, the necessity of 
 security and the desire for privacy made 
 the Roman house, face inwards, while 
 onrsfaceontwards. The exterior of even 
 the best of these old houses is undeco- 
 rated, unbroken wall of brick or stone, 
 and all the ornamentation and the open- 
 1 ings for light and air are on the inside. 
 Of course the number and arrangement 
 of the rooms is cot alike in any two 
 honaes any more than it is with us, yet 
 just as with us there are certain things 
 common to all, and the general arrange- 
 ment, snch as I have described, will ap- 
 ply with certain family recognizable va- 
 riations to ail ttie private dwellings In 
 the decoration of the dwelling scnlp- 
 tnred ornamentation was not frequently 
 employed, though stucco decorations 
 are common. Gias8 mosaics, or as we 
 now call them Venetian mosaics are 
 sometimes used on the walls and col- 
 umns. The floors are generally more or 
 less freely decorated with mosaics in 
 stone, in the Roman fashion. Mosaic and 
 sculpture of course occur in the decora- 
 tion of the fountain and of the altar to 
 the household gods which usually stood 
 in the atrium. There are also frequently 
 marble tables with beautifully carved 
 supports. The wally, are, however, 
 generally decorated with paintings. 
 Some of these are very simple consisting 
 of slight architectural ornamentation 
 dividing the walls into panels. The next 
 step was to place a, small picture in 
 the center of eacb panel, and then, to 
 make the pictare occupy the entire panel. 
 Sometimes the painting formed a frieze 
 or border running ab<;ut the room. Of- 
 tentimes the columns and pillars, us 
 well as the walls were decorated with 
 paintingo. These paintings, more than 
 anything elifs empress the visitor to 
 Pompeii. They are often, finely executed, 
 and in admirable preservation, both of 
 which faciri .surprise you completely. 
 Many of the paintings have been re- 
 moved to the museum at Naples, but by 
 far the largest number are still in place. 
 The subjects of these paintings are gen- 
 erally taken from the mythology and 
 legends of Greece and Home, though 
 there are numerous landscapes, fruit, 
 
flowers, game, animals, and some very 
 clever representations of real life. Some 
 of these illustrate, in a most disgusting 
 fashion, what one of the guides called 
 "the ancient Pompeian love of Bacchus 
 ;aud Venus " Yon have, nndoabtedly 
 come, expecting to find the houses acd 
 other buildings almost intact, and are 
 disappointed to find how great the rnin 
 was, and how little is left, bat as yon 
 come to stndy the place more thorough- 
 ly yon find yourself constantly surprised 
 at the excellent preservation of things. 
 It seems quite certain that most of the 
 houses in Pompeii were at least two 
 stories high, but the ruins seldom indi- 
 cate a second story, and in only a single 
 case does the second story actually exist. 
 The upper floor was far from being as 
 extensive as the lower one Sometimes 
 a considerable part of even the first 
 story has been destroyed. The temples 
 have suffered far more than the baths 
 and the theatres, which are in a fair 
 state of preservation. The reason for 
 this state of things is that the cinders 
 and lava covered the city to the height 
 of the first story, and the parts that' 
 projected above were soon destroyed. 
 This included, of course, the second 
 floor of the houses, and the upper parts 
 of the temples and other buildings. The 
 baths and the theatres were of such a 
 height as to escape serious injury. The 
 site of the town walls can readily be 
 traced, though they had begun to decay 
 before the final catastrophe. As the 
 burial of the dead was not permitted 
 within the city there grew up along the 
 roads leading from each of the city gates, 
 a row of tombs on either side. ' A few 
 of these have been excavated outside of 
 two of the gates. Pompeii lay quite 
 undisturbed from the time of its de- 
 struction until 1748 when the discovery 
 by a peasant of some sculptures, led to 
 the excavation of the amphitheatre and 
 its vicinity. The excavation of the 
 forum and the adj-icent buildings was 
 begun by Joachim Mnrat when he was 
 King of Naples between 1806 and 1808. 
 The present systematic excavation of 
 the city was begun in 1860, when Naples 
 became a part of the Kingdom of Italy. 
 
Fiorelli, to whom the work was entrust- 
 ed, carried it on until his death five years 
 ago. The work still goes on, about one- 
 third of the city having been bronghtto 
 light. The undertaking will require 
 another fifty years and one million dol- 
 lars to reach completion. About eighty 
 men are regnlarly employed on the work. 
 All the movable finds are transferred 
 to the uinseum at Naples for preserva- 
 tion. The annnal income from the fees 
 of visitors amounts to about seven thou- 
 sand dollars. There is a regular street 
 and honsecleaning force to keep the 
 ruins clean and in order; while another 
 corps of men act as guards and guides, 
 and incidentally relieve the traveller of 
 some of his money in the form of gratn- 
 ties. The only tenants of the ancient 
 city are the lizards who certainly far 
 outnumber the ancient population. 
 
 A few of the private houses should be 
 mentioned by name. One of the largest 
 is the House * of Pansa, which is gener- 
 ally studied 'as the complete, model, 
 Pompeian dwelling. The House of 
 Faun, so called from the statuette of a 
 faun found in the atrium, is tbe most 
 sumptuous private house yet excavated 
 at Pompeii, and reveals in the wonder- 
 ful mosaics, with which it was decorated 
 the wealth and excellent artistic taste 
 of the owner. The mosaic of the Battle 
 of Alexander, which occupied one of the 
 rooms in the House of the Faun is proba- 
 bly the finest known mosaic in the Ro- 
 man style. It was made of- about a million 
 and a half minute stone cubes, and 
 though partially destroyed, is now the 
 chief treasure of the famous museum of 
 Naples The finest and best preserved 
 paintings were found in the House of 
 the Vettie, which contains the beauti- 
 ful friezes with the cupids at work and 
 play, and in the House of Chase, which 
 has just been excavated. The readers 
 of Bulwer Lytton's "Last Days of Pom- 
 peii/' will recall with interest the House 
 of the Tragic Poet, whom the novelist 
 has christened Glancus. The House of 
 the Balcony is tbe onh one which re- 
 tains its second story. Of the shops, the 
 most interesting, from their contents 
 which still exist, are the bakeries and 
 
the fuller's shops. The taverns might 
 also be noted. The usual building mate- 
 rial was brick, though stone, marble 
 and stncco were used, especially in the 
 ornamentation. 
 
 Just a word in regard to the streets. 
 The main thoroughfares were abont 
 twenty-four feet wide, and the. minor 
 streets abont fourteen feet. They were 
 paved, not unlike those of modern Na- 
 ples, with slabs of stone abont six inch- 
 es in thickness with a surface of abont 
 two square feet. The ruts worn in the 
 pavement determine the ex>ict width of 
 the carts and carriages in use. The 
 sidewalks are extremely narrow, so that 
 frequently it is impossible for two per- 
 sons to pass on them. Instead of crops ? 
 walks certain stones in the pavement 
 are raised about &ix inches above the 
 others to serve as stepping stones. The 
 fornm and some of the busier streets 
 were closed to carriages, or might be 
 when desirable. Frequently at the 
 street corners, one notices the public 
 fountains. * 
 
 I hope now that I have given you a 
 better idea of Pompeii than I myself 
 possessed before I had seen it. I might 
 add that modern Pompeii consists of a 
 small railway station, two hotels, and 
 about a dozen scattered buildings. 
 About a mile distant is the town of 
 Valle di Pompei, which has grown up v 
 during the last half century It is known 
 to Catholics the world over, for the pil- 
 grimage church of the Madonna of the 
 Rosary, which has been thirty y^ears in 
 building, and is still uncompleted. A 
 hundred thousand pilgrims visit this 
 church annually to worship at the 
 shrine of this miraculous Madonna. 
 Within the past few days, the facade 
 of the church has been completed and 
 consecrated. It was built with money 
 contributed during the last five years 
 by Catholics of every land, as a testi- 
 monial of their desire for universal 
 peace. 
 
 Now go and get a good night's sleep, 
 for you must be astir early to-morrow, 
 and on your way up Vesuvius at seven 
 o'clock. 
 
 Yours truly. 
 
 M DCTCHER. 
 
THE CHURCH HELPER. 
 
 
 
 ITHACA, N. Y, AUGUST, 1901. 
 
 CHURGH-GOING IN EUROPE. 
 
 BY G. M. DUTCHER, A. B. 
 
 Traveling in Europe involves numerous 
 difficult questions which the tourist must 
 face whether he will or not. The question 
 of Sabbath observance is viewed in Europe , 
 very differently from the way Americans are > 
 accustomed to look at it. . Furthermore the 
 . exigencies of travel will interfere with 
 Sabbatarian notions in spite of everything. 
 A traveler's Sundays in Europe can not al- 
 ways be days of worship, and sometimes 
 not even days of rest. 
 
 There are few inducements for .an Ameri- 
 can protestant to attend catholic services in 
 a strange tongue, with the possible exception 
 of the music, which in some cases well re-, 
 pays the American visitor. Such an in- 
 stance the writer found in attending mid- 
 night mass on Christmas eve in the church 
 of Saint Sulpice in Paris. Protestant servi- 
 ces in a foreign tongue are scarcely less in- ; 
 viting, except as a means of learning the 
 language of the country through listening to 
 the sermons. 
 
 Fortunately, however, the traveler is pret- 
 ty sure to find a service conducted in Eng- 
 lish in nearly every place frequented by 
 tourists. Generally these services are con- 
 ducted under the auspices of the Society for 
 the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign 
 Parts, or of another society also connected 
 
I with the Church of England. In- a few 
 ; large cities like Paris and Dresden there are 
 churches connected with the Protestant Epis- 
 copal Church of America ; the Episcopalian 
 then finds himself well provided for, but the 
 Methodists and other non-conformists fare 
 poorly. In a few places there are Presbyte- 
 rian services, and in one or two places a 
 Methodist service. 
 
 Our church has missions in Germany, 
 Italy, and various other European countries, 
 but probably Rome is the only city where 
 the service is conducted in English. These 
 missions are frequently in the poorer quarter 
 of the city and appeal only to the poorer 
 classes. The chapels are small and not al- 
 ways immediately on the street. The writer 
 twice attended services in a little mission 
 chapel of this sort. The first occasion was 
 in Leipsic in October last. Accompanied 
 by another young American Methodist who 
 had already learned the way, or I fear I 
 should not have found the place, it was 
 found necessary to pass through a building, 
 fronting on the street and enter another one 
 in the rear, to reach the single room which 
 had been fitted up suitable for church ser- 
 vice. The sermon had just begun and it 
 was possible to follow it with some degree 
 of understanding. It was brief, forcible, and 
 spiritual. After a hymn the meeting was 
 turned into an evangelistic service. The 
 attendance perhaps was about a hundred, 
 and consisted entirely of people from the 
 working-classes, but people full of earnest- 
 
ness, and who obviously knew on whom 
 they had believed. It was a Methodist ser- 
 vice, beyond a doubt, and npne were allowed 
 to leave without more than one hearty hand- 
 shake. A month later in Hanover a similar 
 little chapel was visited. The good fatherly 
 old man in the pulpit left no doubt of the 
 soundness of. his Methodism, though his 
 little flock did not seem to have quite at- 
 tained the heights reached by their brethren 
 in Leipsic. 
 
 The two services described were conducted 
 in German for Germans. In Rome, and 
 there alone, did the writer find a service 
 conducted for the benefit of the English- 
 speaking Methodists as well as for the na- 
 tives. Our church's missions in Italy, the 
 splendid mission building in Rome, and the 
 faithful labors of Dr. Burt as superintendent 
 are well known to every Methodist. 
 
 April 21st was Conference Sunday in 
 Rome. The conference of the Italian mis- 
 sion was in session in the Mission building 
 with Bishop Vincent presiding. At half-past 
 ten the Bishop preached in English while Dr. 
 Burt interpreted for the benefit of the Italian 
 portion of the audience. At four the Bishop 
 preached again. This time the services was 
 tor the English speaking Methodists and was 
 held in Dr. Burt's beautiful double parlors 
 on an upper floor of the Mission building. 
 The meeting was the most homelike of any 
 attended in Europe. The Bishop's theme 
 was the Philosophy of Marie Corelli, calling 
 the attention to certain things which the 
 
popular English "authoress has emphasized, 
 and pointing out that some of these deserved 
 the earnest thought of all Christians. At. 
 the close of these services came a delightful ' 
 social half-hour, during which strangers 
 could get acquainted and friends could meet. 
 As an aid to sociability Mrs. Burt served 
 afternoon teas. 
 
 1 he following Sunday the pulpit of the 
 American Church was occupied by Bishop 
 McCabe. The bishop has ever taken the 
 deepest interest in the mission in Rome, and 
 has done much to make possible the present 
 building and the work carried on in it ; so 
 it was not surprising that he should turn 
 aside from his journey, in order to visit* once 
 more the field of work in which he was so 
 interested. The afternoon service in Mrs. 
 Burt's parlor was somewhat less formal than 
 the week before. Bishop McCabe was pres- 
 ent and spoke earnestly and simply of the 
 blessings of Christianity and of Methodism. 
 He spoke of the feelings of pain and of pity 
 which come to us as we see certain things 
 that exist in Catholicism, especially at Rome. 
 These services ended in the same delightful 
 
 f fashion as the week before. 
 
 Many good Methodists doubt the advisa- 
 
 bility of missions in Europe, in professedly 
 Christian lands, but a visit to these lands 
 and missions removes all doubt as to their 
 value and usefulness. The converts, as in- 
 timated, are largely from the poorer classes, 
 but the difference between them and their 
 
 i- Catholic or Lutheran equals is noteworthy, 
 and there is no doubt about which one is 
 

getting the most out of the Christian life. 
 The missions in Italy are of the highest im- 
 portance, for there above all they give the 
 real meat, where before the people were 
 getting little more than the shucks. The 
 notion of Methodist services for English- 
 speaking tourists, such as exist in Rome, is 
 one ihat should be adopted in other large 
 European cities. 
 
YC 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIB 
 
^f