Tnia 
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 .lOLRNAL or VU \\IA< 
 
 I.NCI.AM). HOLLAND AM) S( <H LAM) 
 
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 L-JsTRICT OF CONNECTICUT, f. 
 iii", IT RF.MF.MKERFD, Tljat oti the iiineteenlii 
 (Hy of Januitry, in the foily-i'oiu'ih year oi' the In- 
 '.!i:;])eii(iei)ce of t!ie Unilcd Stales of America, 
 >,^__.^^/'' ^r""--'-^"^-'^' ?ii,i [iiAN, of (he said District, liuth do- 
 iiL^ji0>^ posited in thi-i OUicc t!ic tille of a book, the right 
 i'iicreof he ciodms as aiitiio:-, in tl-e wordi foliowitu:;; to wit; 
 
 'A Journal ofTravef^^ in Eiia;la!Kl, Ilolland and Scotland, and 
 ^f two passages over the Atianti(\ in the years 18()5 and ISCiO; 
 "iviMi considerable additions, pr ncipaliy ii-oin the oi'ijjinal iNlanu- 
 'cripts of the autiior. Third edition, in three volumes." 
 
 In conformity to tiie act of the Congress of the I.'nitcd States, 
 t r.titled, " An Act for the eiiconi'E'.gemcnt of Iciirning, by securin_; 
 I'h; co]iies of AKips, C'laits and Books, to the auth.ors and propr; 
 ciors of ;uch copies, d.iriiig the times therein tnentioned." 
 
 cfLAS. A. T?;(;Kr,soi,L, 
 
 Cleric ofl/ie District of t'oitntciitnl. 
 and so 
 
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 4 rHEFACE. 
 
 came so generally known, that their publication was talked 
 of as a matter oi' course. J uniformly declined to listen to 
 any proposition on tiie subject, as it had been my determin- 
 ation, from tl'.e first, to withhold the work from the jircss. 
 
 But, a tjood while after my return, an application was 
 made to me, under circumstances so peculiar, th.at I was 
 compelled to take it into consido'arion. After perusintr 
 the manuscripts, with reference to tliis object, consultiiicf 
 literary friends, and deliberalin<i', a lon<j; time, I consented, 
 uot witliout much anxiety, to attempt the difficult task of 
 ])rej)arin;_f them for publication. It was difii-ult, becatise 
 the public, not my friends^ were now to be my J!u!!.!es, and 
 because it wiis scarcely possible to [ireserve th.e sjiii'it and 
 freedom which had interested the !;i;ier, with.oul vit-latinp- 
 the decorum which was due to flie former, and to nianv re- 
 s^pectablc individuals, whc^se names apiic'ra-d in w\y journal. 
 
 Willi a desii^n to preserve iLis m( hiim, ihe whole has 
 been written anew. Adthiions, omiss:;ins. aii<l alteratitms 
 have been made, but t!:ey ha-,e hee!i as h\\ as j;(issible, 
 and it lias under'ione so little nuitation, eit'ier in fdnn or 
 .-u.bstance, that the spirit and e'laracter o! the work remain 
 ess(^ntially unciumged ; how far it has been renderi'd nu)re 
 (it for the public eye, those, who ha\c peruseci tlu' ori'/inal 
 volumes, during a period of more than three years that have 
 elap-e'l, since their completion, will be best able to judsie. 
 
 Ferliajis, I ought lo ajiologize for inlet weaving; in tlie 
 jonrnal. so much of my own persona,! history, and lor in- 
 troducing Si) many of ni}' own nauarks ;r.id reileedons, 
 but. t'lcse things \.ere so condjined with tlic very tissue of 
 the work, that it would ha\e been ie.ijxis.^ilde to wilh- 
 drav,- tiscu!, without d(vslroying, completel}, tlie t<\\tiire 
 uf ihe i;d>r!C. 
 
 'J'hi' ai)'loL:y iiu]>HrfJ^ in this simple unvaiiii^hed (ale. ! 
 am scn^ilii:'. i.v r(r-/ frltCy and b-y many will be rcv'a.rded 
 a-' iiKubni^sibii>. 
 
 |]()Vve\er this may bi', 1 have discharged a duty hji tcJ- 
 a II <^ 'hi: Irnlli : m hat 1 have said will be believed in Ui}- 
 nat'.vc Stat;', where the prine!|';d facts nvv well ke.own. 
 iJKN.I \\I!\ Si!.! IM \\,
 
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 subjects, whorover It appeared they conld best be sparc(!. 
 Alter ail, the production, thus compressed and curtailed, 
 appeared (without my |)rivily, and contrary to my ex- 
 pectallons,) in tv;o volumes. The reception which it 
 met with, from my countrymen (which I beg leave to ac- 
 kuowledi^e with gratitude) caused me to recret, that any 
 j)art of the prepared manuscript had been sujipressed, and 
 evinc(;d, t'lat the fears of my pubiislier, and the o})inion 
 of his adviser were, equally, groundless, indeed, if uu- 
 thiynly were to be the criterion, I conceived myself to 
 ha\e passed that ordeal with sufiicient solenmii}-, for, the 
 auindscriiJt was sulrmitted to the successive criticisms of a 
 iiuinl)er of littrary friends, among whom were accomplish- 
 ed scholars, and persons of mucli delicacy of taste, and it 
 is no more than truth to sav", that their suggestions were, 
 almost invariably, rrspe< ted : for T assumed it as a g(M)eral 
 priiiciple, that what has struck an inU;l!igent and candid 
 adviser as wronj;-, will of eoursjc strike many others in tlic 
 same manner. 
 
 \n iihistiious liierary h'iend, (now no more) originally 
 advise.'! me strongly, to '.he puiiiieation of ilic whole Jour- 
 nal, a.s written in i'.urepe and on the ocean, (with only a 
 ;<'ry lew oniissi.:i:;> aiul alu, rations,) and this advice he 
 sireiiuous'v rt-newcd. \\\wa the seco-ul edition was pub- 
 iished. It uas \:i-\ \\^)\\v\vy till the prescriit (^dilion was 
 .ii lireiiiied oii. iliat i made i;]i my mind to revise ti!" 
 v,(,,i.. v. idi a \'( v> to \{< en.br-jcmeiit. \\ ith tliis view. I 
 li^iv:: r''-iMser!ed th;' iiiaiier which v^as ]ii-cp;'rrd lor tlie 
 \;x\l ediilfat, and ai'!Or\>.irds snppres-ed : 1 have (m.c ladv 
 ; |i'rli-^^'d the ori^'inal mauKsri-ipis^ anU have dravi i\ jVom 
 iuciu a. vai'ietv of lacls and r-'ni^irks, which h;ive i'.i.i ap- 
 j.eaied in the i'ormer ('(hlions ; and lV<i!u ni} dun recol- 
 icciitm'-. wliidi arc <.ri'ni'ra!l\' \ e'ry di.-thict, rrjfarding tli*^ 
 liiflilinis el'lhis loui', 1 hav.' dei'jvcd no! a lew thir.^s. of 
 wiih-!] \\\' iit.uiuscrijils conlaiiied oiiiy sii'f'it mWic--, fi 
 ut'iie al all ; iiiil. nunr. oi' which, I \\:\\\' !;* en ri/easidmcd 
 (i> s;;j!i' iii c'ii:s, r^ aiiiu vii'i! my i'rien-is. I have, in I.ti. 
 diuiui'. liie week- ,';,!; ihis re\i. al has occupied me, Irar- 
 if'ri /,':!' .'(<<''/ (<>: I" : ihr ihri'ad oi' assoriiitiou has aidi"! 
 hieui'Tv. Ml !/ri -:.i;;'^ ;ij) na;n"!; ; rv/ai:-: i<\)u < ir<'n't)->t;u'-
 
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 8 rnKFAcE, 
 
 remarks, any farther than they go to estaijlisli t\\e fidelity/ 
 of this work, for, truth is the first qLiuIiacatiov. oi' a travel- 
 ler, as well as f:f a witness, or of an histoiiaa: fimJ, even ou 
 tlic tojjic of veracity, the followin'^ short rciiiark is all (hat 
 1 shall cite: "His Joiinial represents tni;ki;Kl to lisc A- 
 mericans as it is/"* On this j)oint J may perhaps i)e a.l- 
 loweci to add, tiial T li-ive often, by direet jjer-ojial eoni- 
 niunicatioiis, recrived the thaaiks of natives of ('rit.jin. for 
 what they have been ])k^ased to eall fi.ir !r< ;!t!i-.'nt of their 
 r.onntry ; aiid, except the anecdotes reiatiiiu to Mr. Hume, 
 I have never learned, that any importJint part of the state- 
 ments in t!ie b(vjk lias heen seriously questioned. On tiro 
 eontraiy, riii!,i'r;ers of j-iy eourarynien, w.io liv.rc visited 
 Jhitaiii since tnis JouriKil was first jjnhiishv 1. laive assrirod 
 a\e, that they ha\ e kept it by thei>i, as a t iiide in their ol)~ 
 servalious and travels, so ihr as ll\c]f 'o:aes have corrcs- 
 i)onded with niiue, and thai vhoy liaxf not discovered any 
 material err:rs. 
 
 I now eoi:;!!,it ;!;e work, iV>r ihe ihird tii'M.'. to (lie can- 
 dor of my coeaitrviriee,, .rn^^tlnL;- th;>t tliey vill pardon the 
 explanations which aopcarcil to i.v..', necessaiy, on tiic 
 nrescnt oc:'usio:i. 
 
 T.Ky,j\MlX S1LM3IAN.
 
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 10 CONTENTJ. 
 
 No. VTJ. THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE/'"*' 
 
 t'aslleton The winding gai." Valley oi' Castleton and the 
 snjTOundiiig liiuijiilains Ancient fosse Ca; lie Mam Tor 
 lis ruin 5 Auocdotr Peculiarity of language Guides 
 Peak's Hole Description of, and adventures in it Hu- 
 mour of the ,<;n!!t'--Oivdin iMitje iMiners 'J'lieir cheer- 
 inhiess, liai-dsiiip--^ and (Ianj,'er,s Speedwell Mine Snhtcr- 
 f aneous voyatje ^Voi:d;n'ful cavern Spar Mine Descent 
 into it lieturn to Bisxtoii (Seolojrieal remarks on tlie Peak 
 of Derbyshire Ehhinr and ilowing veil Contrivance to 
 .-^ve I.ihonr Singular want of curiosity. - - lb; 
 
 No. ^ III. BUXTON TO LEICESTllR. 
 
 iJuxtou Silnation -Climaie Its mit^eral Avalers-Itide to 
 \shbor;!-"Siugular iii Us Sudden coe.trnst -Leices!er,-,!iire 
 ---Great beauly of the eountry Curiosity I, eiccsler-'Kos- 
 \orth fields Richard Hi. Singular use made of hi- ( uffin. Hi; 
 
 \o. IX. LEICESTER TO BIRMl\G]IAI\1. 
 
 ilide io Covetitry--Ladies and bami-boxcs- Covcn'ry elec- 
 tion Crowd -Coid'usionl'pruar ).^ruiikeniies'>--I,u;'i- 
 i rons scene Violence of Eiiglish elections Stage coach 
 ro:;vcrsa(inns. - - - - - 1 iS 
 
 N;). N.-- -BlRiMnOIIAM TO EONBON. 
 
 li:;'iiiinghat)i--Vrai.i and liolton--l1r. Priestly -ilide to (*xf!;"d 
 -- Stratford (lu ,\\o,i- (,'aution in doscendifig hills---\Vood- 
 :~'oc!;---(..>\ford -C.istuiiie of the acadeiriies---;;randeur and 
 ii'Tuity of the tiJWii- Fdde to Lotniori Henley--P)''au(y ot' 
 ;i(' lounlry s b(;:^:;''-i' Approach lo the nieirojiijlis 
 r.quiiirg;'----! ioiiUHiow l'ie:'.lli--Ai rival in i.oi:d(>:i. - l')f-^ 
 
 Xo. NI.-LOM)0X. 
 
 The T'.'d! S;u,ic;e !'nn---SI. Paid's Podgii!gs---.\T,uiner of liv- 
 ii:'.'--.'.;oar!i':iii;-lio'.iS'/> almost inikno\vu---KTp''n-e :'.i;'i cnn- 
 \ ' i;i:'r.;-e ci f ,,h',iii- --Loud.ui intricate -i'-atiii.; h-iii-i--.--- 
 J.sHer:=- -'i'hr- ;!ii,ini;!ie;U of l-OMdoii--0peniiig of fr.c liew 
 ,;nck -CN.r.fii'iiiics on til:; i.;;casioii. - - iG/ 
 
 So. X!!. EON DON. 
 
 r'l!'.- ((i>\-<i . -t)ri:-i,i--!'--J'' ui--\ foiiit 11 of the ','iiard---'r: 'v. i'" 
 gi I us '!!;.' Spal.i^h :iniioui'y---(iMecn !"n::;!l;.';li---\\ siliNiiig- 
 ^tici: of I ;( iiry \1!1 \n aneienl aye u-rdal e\ccu'ious--- 
 Svi.dl ai :.,ouiy- Ancient cannon---i)eaulifu! aiiT.i, -euieur 
 oi .-..'iial! arui^---! iorse iu iilCiU'} ---l\ii;s on h'>;-(i^;tck -- A r- 
 uioiir (if I'i.-tmgnished iiai: viduaf- Tiif rcga:ia--'Ciiiwi;-, 
 scejitri'~. diadems, c^c.---'i'Iifir great beau!} and vahu'--- 
 Wild bea-ls ofthe towiu' lncideiil-^--A ho-pilal .Missioii- 
 r.ry SociLl\'---i'ai;orama oi (.'il'rellar. - iT'i
 
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 --Km !f|n-- .'1 - -i-r- '! I'- i.Ji. 1- \'. -:inii!!ii Vl.s. \ -- 
 
 i'- '.i>:'ni'\ .11 _r:i':-li';ii---- \I Miiiiiii-n'- ,t,i'l ii; 1 ; j ' . '.-i- 
 
 - I >.!trl.i!,-i- ,<l ;;!i' ;; i( ;i-.:I aihl 1U"| If 1 !! ta -I '---I ,n I >! .i! 
 
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 V --M- r .' .I1----M'' !,;i i;i;- r\:.l.>-i .;i<---r:v.,.r!i 
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 r.M :,a'ii. li i:.^'-:,.i.' \ - \ii iif .aU a ni i!>-- ! Ii -iM.' ii'ii n! 
 I ( I'..- -'..<.- <i: 'la-' I- an, TV--- \ (I ill ar r--- 1 ti -<;r\ r ..1 lia- 
 
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 (aa' ", - a. al a-ai la "a. |..aM, a.-: ('I'l!.--' 'm' tau I. 
 
 I a 11- i'l' HI-.; I ,-1 i.i.iil laiaiaa ~-,.lrniiiii '- li | ui :;= 
 
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 \ . \a la;.- :ia 
 
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 T2 (;OX'i'F.\Ts. 
 
 No. XX. LONDON. 
 
 \ painting room I'ijieioii and liio solar chariof Our Sa- 
 viour at the last sDiipcr, kc. An incident Leveria;) mu- 
 seum Birdb Mo-ikeys AVhimsical an-ang-eincrit of tliem 
 MiaeraJs, Lc. A pusU'y-cook's siio]i India-House. 253 
 
 No. XXL LONDON. 
 
 Anotlier visit to V\'estnrni^;i.;r Au'.H'y Tomb of Henry V. kc. 
 Westminstei- Fia!! Lord Elleahorou^h Lord FJrlon 
 Sir .lames Mansfudd Costume anddignity of the Courts 
 A balloon To lie tiansfoi-mcd into a temple Anecdote 
 Tower Hill Prlemorable foe slate esecntions Has; Fair 
 Jews Clothes' shou^ Ai!.';!o-Asiatics an(] Africans 
 Tiieir coni'ifion and treLilnienl in England Slavery un- 
 known in Ei.^laiul. .... ogfj 
 
 No. XXir. LONDON. 
 
 V'auiliall Gardens Situalion and extent Splendidly illumi- 
 nat<;d Description Amusements of the place .Music 
 A mechanl.-,al panorama P'iro woiks Dancing of courte- 
 zans. - " - - - - - 273 
 
 No. XXHL LONDON. 
 
 Mouse of Commons Inc! nv-.iiences to which spectators 
 ai'e subjected Conversatio:. wilii a menjberlJolten bor- 
 oughs Debate on the army Col. Ci'awford Air. "ill 
 Lord Castlerea:;!'. Uiiidiiam's retort coni'teous .Mr. Fox 
 Sheridan ;\ssoci;'(ioit e,f ideas Ceremonies and cus- 
 toms Weather ami winds. - - - 2'7S 
 
 ^o. XXIV. LOXDON. 
 
 ^ private party .'=Tr. Greviile De.;, ended Irom Lord Brook 
 T,ord lirookV -'iealli .Mr Walt Sb-.Jo-ieph Banks' con- 
 vcrsatione .-iir .Josepl) INTajor Heenell His op'inion of 
 tlie (diatigi'S oi die I'lii^lish lan';uar,e in .Vmerica Dr. Wol- 
 laston 3)i'. 'J'ooke Dahympie Windham, i>ic. .No cer- 
 ennjny Sir Jo^ej)l)'s ])ablic breaklast ,\necdote of a 
 Frenchnrrin. . . . - . 2Si' 
 
 No. XXV. LOXDOX. 
 
 Brom|)ton fiarden Chid'^ea C irden Clirlsea Hospit.'d 
 jienmyof the ''roimd- V'leran- Snius>;lers of C;imbric 
 - Slrai!;ers ea-ily di-!.inpiiislird in Loiidon Mendicants 
 vei'v mrcMTi-u- in Lo.'don R.'.'fnice for ihe de.-titnte In- 
 a le'jnacv ot ihe relief aifo!'d<'d by pniuie and [irivate char- 
 ily A .-.ncec liil !i;'f^_;;r ^-ohiiL'rs and sailors. 2'i< 
 
 :V,,. XV\ i._L()M)o\. 
 
 Ilbiminatien with iidiammaiile ga Its bennfy .^'a(ure of 
 tine ccn'.rivrinv'e 'flie loyal society- \ iii(!lui'e i;irdery 
 Dcni;ei-'-^ dan.diier A Inmtinu piece .l.iseph and Tofi- 
 iiliar's wile .i'tcnijilto delineate Jehovah Euviions uf 
 Loudon. _.,-.- 50-1
 
 JOrHNAF. OF TIJAA KLS, c^c . 
 
 \ .. I. IVVSSA(ii: lO J:\(iLAM). 
 
 I-'-. , riir-.;.'\ . April 'I'll- "ii ;">'!:-'l tin' <>ii!.i!-; .. a; -' .. 
 7m (,r,/,/ ,V, .\i'/nniii!. '/ y, irp'jrf. I'/in-Ir ls!,/.i'!. 
 
 M\ iM \i; cKo; iii'.iv, 
 
 y}\ \]i>- ;ili. ;ii I'lir in lli( :i:'[''n!t'<.|i. we v;i'l"(l lin'.i, 
 N. \\ N Ml is. u illi .1 w iii'l -II -lii'ii'j mill I.ilr. tli.il llir -|.i;i - 
 . I ilir < ii \ i^'^v, ,i, ,1 t \iv\ 111 1 1 11' 'lit ;;> w 1 |i:i--i'ii i!m\vii tin 
 .,,\ . aii'l \M' li.:'l ii:i;iils ti;iii' li > :im i;i i; t !:i' lif nii_\ "I llic 
 liilriii- I linl-r.iM . Inlii' iiiMi-iiiii- hM 1 11.1 \', ,- \ I-. ill''. 
 :iii.l \w i'miiii.I ill,,: \\, Inil iii,i.;i ,i r.ij i I Irii,-ai''U hMin 
 ^.ii.imIi w . hr ,ii: i 111 11' v^ riiii!' r. til ti :i,ii''-;ii. > -' .1-. ;i;i:l 
 
 ,'!,, 1 \ -Ml -. 'I'll III!' \. ilM li,,,i 111 \. 1 Ik I 11 :it v,M h, r.,1,-, 
 
 ii \\.i> iiiit iiii i!ii]ii niiii-i M" l'i'.j;ii;ii; J ; lii-i ii-mi;_' -'' 
 -i.^Mi -- in,;;;, .ii i!- !;. li ilL i\\ 1 1. ,;;i'i lliis ,;.i\ li.i. Iiccii. 
 I 1 !|| . , ll"!,' . I ',.!] i. . -; m||:j \ . ,11., i I ; ivi|;;il. '| (i\', ,. im\ r\ r|,i;i J . 
 it '.' \i '. I 111 .I'll.- Ill Ml r. ,iiiii w.i- ;il,lr In fii'()\ ;i ^Cfiii' 
 111 i..i|ili :;i .11,!. iir .;,li| li'':"il '. . |il II iiii' .1 lu ll|i' -I IMl" 
 
 -:m. \'. iii !i ii.Mi ,il\ III ill' III,; iii.iii i'i.' I Iii!i.^ '. ii'ii 1 II-. it 
 
 ;ili ,,i.|I,. 'I i|,' rl,, !r I I till l|i.rl/.i.|i W i~ IMiImi Ivi 11 li\ 
 l:' I ;':-';,.(, II 1 1| til It 1 il' lln W ,U i - . W i ,. i-i sin lU - 
 
 . M I'M : I . I 'i ;i il !! .','i!\ I i-.i!! mlr,,;. ' \ I'n- i . 
 
 ; --. \', l.'l!i- :i ;.lll \\ 111' I ,11:1 I ;il'' |1! I'N- 
 
 ,. ' I ' -., I. !, \', . II, I . iiMiii- ii:,:|,lr ..111. i.,~ |.i;- ii . vlii'i;!! 
 :' ;' I ii.;\ . ! -; m \'.f i .ii l\ !..ii i .. ili.' up !ii -mi iln i^. 
 ; ' ill 1.1", . ' \. \, itli , ' . I . I i .r i';\ bi .!,
 
 14 A JOUilNAL OF inAVKL:^ I.N 
 
 April T' The morning was pleasant and the whid fair, 
 circumstances which attended us th ough the whole day, 
 and made it the delightful contrast of the preceding. A 
 little schooner for Wiscassct, from the West Indies, passed 
 almost under our bowsprit, and I endeavoured, in vain, to 
 throw a letter on board addressed to you. There was no 
 other incident to give \ariety to a fine day. and a charm- 
 ing moon light evening, which succeeded, till sleep, almost 
 as refreshing as on shore, obliterated the consciousness of 
 our situation, and made us insensible to our rapid progress. 
 
 April 8. Light returned, with every circumstam e to 
 render it Avelcoine, and the entire recovery of my health, 
 .-ippetite and spirits, has put a new face on the ocean. 
 
 This morning, a large hawk, that had strayed beyond 
 jiis reckoning, hovered ove^ the sliip, and settled upon the 
 peak of our foi'e-top mast, where he poised himself with 
 liis wings, as the motion threw him off from his centre. 
 He seemed much fatigued and very hapj)y to tlnd this 
 jesting place ; more fortunate he, than the winged mes- 
 senger that went from the ark, but found no mast or shrub, 
 rising from that '' shoreless ocean.-' W!:en the hawk first 
 alighted, an English gentleman on board remarked, that 
 the American Eagle had come to preside over our pas- 
 sage ; but the omen seems unpropitious, for our tun hiry 
 genius has alrcaily taken his fiight, perhajis. distrusting 
 our friendship, and indeed, with some reaFon, lor our i)as- 
 sengers had been regretting the want of a gun to bring 
 him down. 
 
 In the evening, the sky was clear and serene, and the 
 moon shone with uncommon brightness; our shi:. with 
 all her canva'^s filled l)y a stiJf brt'cze, niovi d gracefully 
 and majesiically through the water : the sea, Jor many
 
 h Ni.I. AM), HOI I , \.) Wil 
 
 \,;!.i> .iriiuiul. \\a> all in a i.Miii ii,.;-) il,,- i.iM'KJitv ol lii 
 hiMiiun. \sliir!i was ^o rcjiilar. iiial I ua^ a!i!f In ualk thr 
 iliik with a rum ^tcp.ainl to ( iijo\ liic c.mu t'i>atiini ol an 
 
 illlfll ijrllt IrlliiW pa-xil'.iT. 
 
 .l/)ri/[). In tlic (% I'liiiij. I (i!)sri-\r(! I'lM lla- iir,>t time. 
 tlif inti'ft'.stiiiL' ptit'iioint'iitiii dl' till' lull ir Unw . ujiicli wa^ 
 iii>tiii(tly viviliK- in abnul ('0' ul' tiic iipjicr jiart el" lli 
 viivl.-. 
 
 V/'/vV l(t. Ilv. n iliirir.Lr tin- <lu)it |icruMl that 1 liavi- 
 liriii .11 >f.i. thrrr ha-. t).Tii ahuiidaiil ex iilf.irc thai Miiliicii 
 r'M'iM-. art' ilif ctMiniinii ((lur-c ni ihlii'js iqion this stunm' 
 I'liiiiriii. \\ ! had no loii'j;<'r the line ncmutI siiii and mild 
 l)rr(/.r> of \<stcida\, liiit a i^alf iVoiii thi' south-east, with 
 a hrav\ SCI. iKui'i < jouds. dashes ol" rain, and \ ioh nl 
 s(|M;dls. At l\v iliijht. liic hfavciis and tlif oct an inrscnlcd 
 a Ml 11'' ol '^icat _'iandfnr. Tin; ua\i'> I'.iM wry liL'li, 
 and till' ^liij) ilaiiii'd o\ci tlirii tops like a Ifatiicf. 'I lu' 
 sk\ Im'imiii' ^lul !i iil\ hl.ick ; daikiirss. almost like that ol 
 i;ijiil. Iiiuil: o\cr the iifc|) : it \va^. il' 1 ma\ so sa\ . a 
 d,irkiu-^s --hi-d liom the < huids, atli-nd<'d with a poi Iriitou- 
 llloom. milikf the sirtiill\ which ni'_'hl [iixnliicrs ; tin" 
 w'liii- tojw III the w a\ 1^. a^ ilir\ ilavhiil ,i'_:aiii>t ta( h otlii'T. 
 and crowiii'd llu- \a-t liln.k IiiIJown wiili a sccininu' liiijf 
 ot siiou, |)rtsi-iitrd a Wiikiii'j coiitia^t to the ^ahh' hiif ol 
 till' M-a and ^ks : and the dcxtrrilN ol' tlir sailors, uho. m 
 the miiNl <il thi^ ii|iroai . (rmihi d th<' ^lirou.U, and \m iil 
 out to the V( r\ t'lids ol the \ariU to lasji tiir >ailv. was 
 Ul II aiiaiili'.! to txcitc rnv a-toni-hiiniit . I ii id no It-ar^, 
 tmi iii|ii\id ill a hi''h di-'jin' tlir nia|tstv ol' a situp, lor 
 u\\ im|i;i--;onv ol wlinli I h;id hilhtrfo Iim"i indtlitid to 
 paintti'. and poi !*.
 
 ICi A JOURNAL OF TRAAELS !> 
 
 Karly in the evening, the winJ declined: the ciouci- 
 begcin to disperse, and the beaiitital constellation Orion. 
 uas the lirst that appeare 1 to cheer our spirits, after so 
 .:tisinal a day. 
 
 fn the evening a sudden jerk ol one of the sails knock- 
 ed ray hat overboard. I saw it, at a considerable distance. 
 Heating wilh the crown downwards, and felt a little soiici- 
 tuni.:, lest as my name was in it, it miglit be picked up by 
 .-jonie returning American sliip, and my friends should be 
 unnecessarily alarmed for my safety. I had no cap to 
 substitute for my hat, but, fortunately Captain T. of the 
 British anr.}', a feilow-jjassenger, relieved my embarrass- 
 ment by lending me an old artillery hat, wlsich liad seen 
 much hard service in the Last Indies ; but, v.ith the ad- 
 dition of a striiij, to keep it on in windy weather, it an- 
 swered the main purpose of (jiotection very well. 
 
 April 1 ] , 3 (/ clock, f. M. \\ \- have no longer the 
 strong wind th-it so lately drove us rapidly towards a lee 
 shore, but, in its phicc a light breeze from the same point, 
 wtiich has been too feeble either to give us nuich head- 
 wav, or to prevent the uncomfortable motion produceti by 
 H dot p, hollow rollinij >ea, raised by the wind which sub- 
 sided last ni'jht. Xi noon to day, our latitude was 43*-' 42', 
 and we sujipose ourselves at lc\'ist .-even iumdrcd miles 
 /nmi New- York. .Fin(ung that we were very near Sable 
 Island, we tacked this eveninir; and stood for a short time, 
 towards America, but, the wind becoming more f.ivour- 
 able, we soon resumed our old course. 
 
 April \1, 3 o'cl'ick, P. M. La^t niijht tlic ship rolled 
 very much, and. as there has been tinis far to-day. almost 
 a perfect calm, tlie same distressinLT motion has conlinued. 
 A little wind is now springing u]), witli the appearajice o'
 
 KNi;L\Nr, HOLLAND AND ?(Orf AND. 
 
 17 
 
 an apprniicliint: storm. Tlirre <:r;mi;)ii>'s ;iro spoiitiii(* 
 ariMiiid tin- sliij), and iVotjUcntly raisiiie tlifir (ins and h.'i<k*; 
 uiU ot the water. 
 
 ^tpril K'>. \\ itn line weatlirr. and a lair wind we nvide 
 tolrr.iblf proijros, and tlif next day, \\ itii cirrnni^tar.r' - 
 still niorr a'jriM'aMf. wt> sailed verv rapidU'. 
 
 Apnl 11, !> o'dork. P. .U. Jn-t hefore .Ink, this cxe- 
 ninj. we liad the pleasure to descry a li^hin'.: vcsvrl \\\\\\s. 
 at aiieli(>r. on the celehrated hanks ol Newl'onndland. 
 'I'his eiiahles n> t') deride that ue have sail'. .1 twelve hun- 
 dred miles, and lia\e aeconipli'^hed one thii'd ot" our p.a>- 
 sa.:e in ten (lavs. We promise ourselves ^oiue plea--ii!e 
 to-niorro\\ , in li-^hinij tor rod, as \s<' ^hili piobahK' I'each 
 the he<t tivhinu ijidimd hy morniu'j. 
 
 Ajiril 1 .'(. \i-corilin'jU , alter hreakta^t, the u ind h( iu'- 
 \er\ li'jiit. and the ucather iiue. the ( .iptai;; <iideretl ti;" 
 \{'>.sel to he to. and ue piepared uith niuch (ajenie^s tu 
 (ivh. \ iiiul was killed, whieh sirvrd tn!' hail, and in r. 
 t'eu minute-., the ( 'aptain honked a lish v. hirh tlirte m 
 lour men were hanlU a'ale to hrin^ to tin suiiare oi' ili' 
 \Aatii': it juovcd to he a lialihut. ol so 1 u -e a s|/,c. th; V 
 the Hue was insunieie,it to raise it : ,e,'roi-..in'_'!\ liie u.^i. 
 poon was use. I, and we were h.ii-iiu'j our pii/..- in. wi'.h 
 ( vullalion. uh'U it (hupped oft", midwaN luaween the L'tui- 
 ".\ .lie ai'.d die \S it' r. 
 
 \ tew n;iiaites a!ti r, the snihirs mi i!ie |oie-oa-ll". 
 
 liri.ajiii iiji iwi) tine (a-dlish. one oi whi.h I'll ireni l!:- 
 
 V'l '!s lilt. 1 the -e:i. iin.l ,lii' I'liier was < !!il\ |,i:d en !!; 
 
 ^ I'k. \tier ti-hniL -,,ii'.( tune lonjer uilh* ut suceevs. wi 
 
 > Muue.l i.iir eoursf - s.(d<d < ii'lit or ten nrles. ;iMii 'Ju-' 
 
 u !'. and ;;shi d ayaiii. Iiui witlmnt takiiiL'' ae,v thin;'.
 
 18 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 in lh<j nu'iin time, we had the pleasure of seeing one 01 
 the greatest wonders ui'the gieat ileep. Two whales j^hiyed 
 abont the sliip for some time, fre((nently spouting and 
 raising tlieir -'broad bare baeks"' out of the water. 
 
 The banks of Xewfoundland are one extensive shoal, 1 
 believe the most extensive of any hitherto discovered. 
 'J'hey lie in the main, east and south east of the island, 
 and a.-e from one hunch'ed and filly to two hundred miles 
 bro;id, and livin three to four huiidred miles long. 
 
 5 o'clock, P. M. We are still upon them, but there 
 is nothing to distinguish the prospect from any other j)arl 
 of the ocean, except the numerous sea fowl, and a degree 
 of tnrbidness in the water. The lead however decides the 
 piiint. The soundings are generally from thirty five to 
 sixty fathoms. Our lead being greased, brought up sand 
 and small shells. No land is visible ; the nearest is the 
 Island of .\ewfoundland, which is probably several hun- 
 dred miles from us. 
 
 After our last attempt at fishing, we stood on our course, 
 .and, in a few minutes, discovered what we imagined to ha 
 two vessels : the mate, iroin'i up to the round top, saw 
 four more, and p-e^ently after, we descried a whnk' licet. 
 V>'' concliifi((l t!i;it ihey r/ii;--t l)e fishing vessels, and steer- 
 ed fir them ; having alr(\'idy formed a i)lan to lioard tlieni 
 willi our 'ooat. fjr purpH'C iif pmchasin'^ fi>h. since \\v Imd 
 failed in taking any. '1 here was sonieihini.% however, ex- 
 tremely. si,ivu!ar. in t'le appearance of diese vesvc],;. 'I'hey 
 >vere appa.rep.tly without inasfs or sails ; their hulls were 
 of a briliiaiit wiiitc. ;,'.i<i, as tlie sea c.ai-e-i t'icm to roil, 
 they uave a < rpiuus r^ l.'ctiun. :-t>>iH \''rv ivripht s'm'. ;i,'vi 
 se'in.'d a!! du/./.'ir,'.'.
 
 1 N(.[ \M>, IIO[.l, \M) \M) NlOn. \Mi 
 
 j''' lilli"> (Ml llir >ul>|ri-t. uiliiDiit dllO' Ml>|M rt'iMj the Iral 
 I'.Ht. u Ih !l t!ic lii:iti' tIDlii'j ;(!.i!t \^ ith ;i |i| o^iird -l,|v>. viu.u 
 p'll i'> llijhl .ill diir -iiniiiNrs. \,y ,'r\!iii: mit, Isfdud-; of 
 hi ' ' I Ii'li .( mi\i' I cmiHidii. Ill plia^uif ;iiiil .i|i[iri licii- 
 ^ii'ii. iMvii till' .xiM'c I.- I cDHt. iii|ilati(iii (i| iil)|('(|^ M) sjili'il- 
 (!''l .111 I ina'jiiiru( III. and >til!. >o (laii_;cnMi> tu our ^ali i\ . 
 
 \ <l S sniMI. tin- |,1, ,_;|rv> of tin' A\'\\) Itlulljlll ulllcf i.^Iailiii 
 
 I UN) \ :< u . ,.!: ! n ml' iril iIkim' ninif ill -I met u lii( li uc had 
 lii-i (li^i ,i\i r, li. I'iic siili|fci urnijiicl all liir r\(>.. and 
 iirjiu^-i'd all l!i>' tlnnr.'lils an I emu tT'-atidii ^>\ luir lillli' 
 iiniih. I !i'' w ' atliri , Iroiii In i!i'_r mild in ilir murniiiL:, 
 ail'iiMidi hll 1 !' ar. Ii . li.ciMiM III 1 h culdt |-. iiicoiist'- 
 
 liHillcc. I hi diMllil. <il liir \ i. illil\ nl ~im1| II1,|v-~. s (if ill'. 
 'I iiat \\ liii 11 <.< f had iil->iii\ fi t il, \\ a^. lia ji)id \ . ii' it uI ijic 
 lii'i-l l!allLtllM:^ l.'ilii: it \i.a> .'dl' I'ji I !irr. i'l Ci ai-piiii. ii|s 
 Ihi-'"- i;~i;i: III -'lili' ii I.iiiri'^. uiic liiuidiiil Ifit lun (li 
 I la- w \\< \ : tiial \s Im ' i^ i ' ist ! iiij-, i . u-. i- t!;r li, Id irr, 
 
 \slli( II 11' - 'III tl,r -illai'i-. ullr til a L^lilI 'Xtilll. aild. 111. I 
 
 Iji iir: \ i>ilili' ,11 aii\ 1 .i,i>i.ii |i' taiH I . ^ii:|.^ a!' MiiKii;- 
 .ji |- 111 I uiiliii:'^ n|Mai it. ii::- ' i-'M \ i d. 
 
 1 1 (N inj xiill sr\t lal ImiMv "\ iia_\ lidit. \vi' llatlt mi ont- 
 s. |\ 1 V liMt w ! ^1 Id '. t I < '. .T I'! >!|i u a d..nu' I'-'.i'' l'.< r^li- 
 li, .iiil;. .. d I r i. ai ' lii" iit. 1" .1 i in' liiipi' - . > d ,i> \ am a-; 
 iliai i>i |i i^-i:i.' till' liiiii/iiii it~i';, ; .r ii'\^ m i-^i ^ w I i\ 
 r.iiitii. lall ', ('! ; 1'.! iiil 1 \\>\\ . M.ii ..( 1 .111!. I |M i ( .\ ( rill 111 
 
 ,1,.; . Ill, lii.r ^1. Ili'i' -,11 !^. ill til' V 1 1 \ S ' .-i' 111 ill. a ..\ 1 ,1^, 
 |i .: ,, ;' . 1 , . '. ';:. 1 lili -'.\ .lid '.* '.> V I iili I t.i iiniti', 
 
 ' ; ' . i , 1 ' , i I i! , I'l 1 : ' ( ', 1! , ,l> \\ 1: ll I 111 ij K 1 ;, \S 1 ; I HI lid 
 
 ..'II 1 l\i >. '..'i -;d- I \iii:iij, - rii'iiiidial !'\ i;'n"r,'> "ji- '."."
 
 20 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS I.\ 
 
 Their appearance was, to me, extremely interesting and 
 gratifying, and I wish it were in my power to convey to 
 you an adequate idea of these formidable productions of 
 polar frost. 
 
 They were all of a very pure and splendid white, with 
 a peculiar brilliancy, arising from the situation of the sun, 
 which was declining; wJiile the ke-islauds constantly came 
 into view from the east and north, and thus threw back a 
 flood of light upon us, which rendered thcMTi more conspi- 
 cuous as they came nearer, and afforded the pleasure of 
 continued discovery. Few of them were larger than a 
 house or a church, but there were two which might well be 
 dignified with the name of floating mountains. They all 
 rolled much with the waves, with a ponderous motion, that 
 alternately immersed an additional portion of the mass, 
 and tlien, by tlie returniiia- movement, brougiit a great 
 bulk into view, which had been invisible before, while 
 streams of water, taken up by the inequalities of surface, 
 ran down their sides like cataracts. It is not easy to give 
 a correct estimation of the magnitude of the largest islands. 
 Their aj)pearance was very magnificent. They covered 
 many acres on the water, and towered above our top-gal- 
 lant masts. So peculiar was their ap])earance, thai it i< 
 not easy to compare them to any thing but themselves : 
 \et, they rcsc^nbled most, some ancient venerable ruin, 
 while the beauty and s|)ieii(Ioar of the matcricds mad'- them 
 k)ok like a recent, highly polished work of art, which some 
 convulsion had thrown into vast (iisvrder. Conceive o5 
 some very (>xtensive and lol'ty palace, of white marble, 
 Tviiose walls have Ixen liere and there, broken down, al- 
 most to tlie ifrounil, but still rise in numerous and !cuy 
 Jurret?, find whose sides appear, every where, furrov^ed I'V
 
 FN^.I Wn, .iI.:VVD \SU v. n'liwu. 
 
 i't 
 
 i. it'iiiiM --ts i>r ,i'_'''^ : i'uiicii\ r hiiilit-r. d iliiv 'M> ;(t pil<.' 
 ii I'liii .tN i'iii<'r;_'inLr Inuii tin- ncfaii. win if iIk- Im-.imiis 
 
 Ml'' ''Ti'iiiiat-' tin- \ ir\^ nil r\i'r\ vi'lc anil tlial the w a\ rs 
 ,;ii- ila>liiiv.' iiMitiiiiialU ajiin^t it. a:iil >iii imiiiiliiiL' its 
 l)a. Willi !'),iiii. ami it> ^ilil^ wild vpiM^ ; jmil \,ii| \\il| 
 tii'Mi lia\f suiiic ill. -a nl' the iihuct uliii li I am aiiiiinL: to 
 !-' 1 : If. 
 
 Smi-s' fti/ii; . 1 lia\<' llii> nMniriil In ni on i !i rk. ain.l 
 LJii'i lliHt w' aif iniiiifliali |\ aliiia-t id ai,.iilifi' ii->'-iiiM!iii- 
 tiii'. \'-liil<' ni'w (iiits ar<' iin iiiu iith c-..i _> ini,. \iiw in 
 
 ill.' .-l-'.Ill ''!.:' "I tlir JKui/oil. 'I'lln^r W ITk il Wi'lia\C 
 
 [ia^~i''l iiovs' pi'fM'nt tlirir siiailfil -iili^. an'l liasr In-l llirir 
 -plriiiidT- : whil'-tln- niM>r ii'innii'. in tli<' ^aim' dni i lioii. 
 a[.|i:ir Ilk-' (lark cinii.N. with llifir inp^ -iMcil hy tin- ia^t 
 ia\^ 111' ilii' Mill. '1 111' air i- \t'i\ kmi Ii'r llic ^laMHi. 
 NiL'lil i- nnw t'liwiii.j la^t njmn n^. ami \\i' nni^t |ia-^ it 
 ,,.M'ai.' till vf ll'aliii'i nla>^l^ : it will Cfrtainls lie ,iii aii\- 
 i"ii- nljlii. aii'l liiM\ 111 "jraiil it ina\ lie a -air onr. \\ ! 
 !m\i' I'lif aii\ aiiia'jr nl -i iriif wratlitr, with a lair llh'ii'_li 
 "-iimII bill /,!. ami \\ > shall lia\ ' tin' im'oii lnl'iiir iiiiilni'j lit . 
 ] ' 'I'l l'<( I. Ill niulit. 'Iwii im 11 air siatiuiird in tin. 
 I'.uv Im |n"k mil iwi till' iri- : mil' in.iss ha- <jia/.i il I'Ui 
 -iili-. Iinl wilhoiil iliiiir.' aii\ liaiiii. aipl a- ;lii' nin.'ii li,i^ 
 1 '-. a. I II' I ihr w I alia r ci 'iitiiiiu - lim-, I shall H'Iih- In \\-\. 
 1 hav iM't. h'lWiMi. ini jiiliiii the inl< i"t-liii_' lii-l"i \ I'i 
 ihi I .a i\ I Iiihill la il!-!l l'a< kit. W liirli | n ri-'ll'il laM \ i a; 
 la till M -la-. 1p\ tip' - ma- arcnli nt I" whi' h W" an' mi'\ 
 
 \!I'T ua;' ai rl . ;ii iii I'.ii -I ii"l 'A > !.ii a'lM .tcj , ai.'i a w i'', ' , 
 in-;.' t|,' .ii il I.''. "I II- Via. I II -111 -iiil' .lill'l!' :, (,i|,: \ ..w 
 
 a .1 I'.a 1 1 . u all :i I. a iiMin' I I "1 i "; '' . "i.'\ .i a-'.'. 
 
 iMir .a :i. .'! ill ill' ''.inl -i, t,.\,-,, :'., \.,-' 
 
 , ! v\ (. ill '!' v\ a \'. ir ii; ii U- A lahia'' ,, 'I'hk
 
 .12 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 April \&. Happily we received no injury, being I'a- 
 vonred with every circumstance which might give us a safe 
 passage. Had these circumstances, however, been rever- 
 sed; had the night been dark ihe sea high, and the 
 weather tempestuous, we could scarcely have escaped; 
 for, wliat obstacle would the sides of a ship oppose to the 
 mighty momentum of such masses, impelled by the winds 
 and waves of a tempest ! Between two, she would l)e 
 crushed, and even the collision with one, if the ship were 
 mider full way, would cause the same resistance as a rock, 
 and the ragged edges of the ice would pierce her instantly. 
 
 In order to a correct conception of the vast moving 
 power of these bodies, it must not be forgotten that only a 
 very small portion of their bulk appears above the water. 
 It is well known that this is the case with cakes of ice 
 floating in a river, and. where it is perfectly solid and well 
 formed, only one eighth or one ninth part of its bulk rises 
 above the surface. These masses are, however, far from 
 having this density ; thty seem to be principally an accu- 
 mulation of snow, hardened ()y degrees upon a bed of ice, 
 and increased by the dashing of the water, which constant- 
 ly freezes upon them in successive layers. 'I lie sailors -ay 
 that one third of the bulk of these islanls apr.ears above 
 water. This estimation is undouI>t('dl\ 'luic'i too lii"h, Init, 
 were even this considered as conxct, it will be evident that 
 such islands as the largest we saw, inus; be bodies of pro- 
 digious magnitude. I'ut. every allowance lieing made, 
 there is reason to believe that not more than one fifth or 
 sixth part ot the ice-islands is visible; of course an ice 
 mountain of oih hundred f(>f't high, would really have a 
 perpendi<Hilar altitude of five or six Inuidred feet. 
 
 Wliih' rontemitlatinc these magnificent bodies, Dr. 
 Darwin's whimsical project of employing the navie o'
 
 hM.LA.VU, HOLLAMJ ANO JvcuTLAND. 'il> 
 
 liurope to iiavijute tlu'in to the tro|)iial rcL'ioiis for the 
 siikf otCooliiiij tlioM' climates, striick me with pociihar iii- 
 tir>t ; wliat projtTt or liypotliesis lias Ikmmi too ritiiciduiis 
 to hf proposed and (ifltMiilt'd b_v philosophy or to Lm- tni- 
 btlli>htil tn poftryaud tiction !* 
 
 TlitTi' Nvvrii^ ' iili^lil, arrny your (ia?:zlini,' powers 
 
 With -iidiifii iiHircli, iilnriii the tor|iiil lioiir~ ; 
 
 On ii-o-hiiilt i-lt\s pxpaiiil i llioii>iiri(1 ^iilN, 
 
 Hinji' tlif -troii^ lifliiis, and calcli lh>- \\iy/.c\\ iiules ; 
 
 'i\\e \\ in^cd ro( k^ lo ifNi-ri li i liiiMli-^ unide, 
 
 W 111 ri- laiiilinL: /.i [>li\ r~ pan! n|'oii llii- tuli- ; 
 
 f'.i^-. \vlii'i-f 'o ( 'l [ I \ ( \ in Uinndi-r roar-;, 
 
 Ai.d a'i-u.|-,ii,'.-<-hor- -hakr till' kind;( d -linr.-s ; 
 
 I'a--. wlic:-!' with I'alniy |'linni'> ( ' vn \i; inik''^, 
 
 Ai'd in !ii';- -ilsf-r Lirdlc !ilnd~ lln- i-l'^ ; 
 
 Uii\\:ud, wlii'iL' Nk.i r.'-- d.i-ky Naiad 1 nr'; 
 
 A :', Ml .,it;d I, iii_-doin \s i'ii la'i'riiii w i\ i -, 
 
 Or ! id- oiT .;.ildi II -and- her llinciold train 
 
 In -' iin ', rhaiinrl- In iln- i(r\ id main. 
 
 V\ !:;' -. .1; iliy iialiun- c i-n\\ d t'lr ^iil'ry ( nn-f, 
 
 OiMi.k :" V :,. -'i la.-fZ.', and iiad ll.c lloaliru IroM, 
 
 > 1 uif- ' \ I d d i:l rtil, till' ini-'iniL- Ina-nic -tccr. 
 
 An I ( Old u ilii a: I tic now mIii tr"|iii- \aMi- ' 
 
 l/.'^',-//.- (./,-/.,;- I'art I. p, .Vf. Ito. i7;.i 
 
 'r!,' . Iiov, r\ I r i- ; "M-v, and w ( mi lit lia\ ! -n|'|io-i-d Or. I >ar 
 
 will i:.,f 1.1 I; o.r '..I'll ia:.ily in cariK'-l. had li< n'>l id'!'-d th,. l',i!- 
 
 .'. 1::.; [niar!,- in -ohiT jtom' li tli"' natiuM- \s iio inlialnl liii~ 
 
 1, j'hti-.- oT thi' ^io'.t-. in trad Ml' ih- tro\ in/ tipir -i-atni n. oid 
 
 Ma-; itu I'.ini- ^^ ' di i; in an iii-rc --,; |-', war-. 1 lald !> in . iiircd 'o 
 
 : ui>- till ir 'a.! o'lr- ;o va\ \_ :< Ih- -c inii - ina- r- ! irr into 
 
 tiiftii'irr ' ';;:a ; n III ( an- . t'A o /riatai!\iira r- w ai!dri--nll to 
 iji oikiiai, t"i' tiMpir ( I. ihirn v.i.a'.i !i,' laar'a 1 u .!rd 'i\ tin I; -o- 
 lala'n, a nd .nr u n.t.'i- in ihi- I r i' 'ah' \\. .aid 't '.ndiard nincii 
 HI I Ml' r. t' a- ,.i rha]-. a ( ' 11' ni \ "V two. ti;l ].> ma- -- 01 n i- i.i riao' 
 ^ :aln .; .:.'; ' : N' ' 'v /;.' aa- '.-'/a.'.
 
 24 A JOURNAL OK THAVELS IN 
 
 April 17. No islands of ice were to be seen to-day, 
 and it was probably owing principally to thin fact, that 
 the temperature of the air had beconie sensibly milder- 
 The last night was very tempestuous ; the wind, espe- 
 cially towards morning, blew hard, and raised a very 
 heavy sea; the sky was covered with ragged, angry 
 clouds, which gave us fretjuent squalls, with rain, hail and 
 snow, and the ship rolled so violently, that I slept very 
 little ; but, to compensate for all this, the wind was per- 
 fectly fair, and sent us forward eight and ten miles an hour. 
 We have had the same weather, and have made the same 
 progress throutrh tlie day ; but the motions of the ship 
 have been so violent, that it has beci impossible to sit at 
 the table. We have been com[)elled to place our food on 
 ;he floor, and to sit down around it, with all tlie simpli- 
 
 .Xolc lo the 3f/ edition, JhIi/, 1S18. Diirina; a period of several 
 years, since tlie preceding note was written, tliis subject, (1 mean 
 that of the ice islands) has assumed a new and unexiiected degree 
 of interest. Masses of ice, unexampled both for size and number, 
 liave continued to float from the Northern Polar seas into the At- 
 lantic ocean, aticl if we may trust the accounts of iKuigators, tiiey 
 tiave bf^en seen even w.thin a few degrei^s of tlie tropic. Tims 
 Dr. Darwin's project seems on tiie |)oiMt of being realized only 
 (lie ice comes irilhou! conroj/, and .ij)onlane(tu.'sly, brings its stores 
 of cold, lo refiesh the glowing regions of the south. 
 
 It seems generally agreed that tlie vast bari'iei- of ice which, fur 
 several centuries, had been accumulating upon the coa.^t of J'".ast 
 rireeulanil, extending many tniles into the ocean, and elfeetually 
 preventing the access of ships to (he co;!st, is now broken. for 
 -evend cenlui'ies, no communication had taken p/lace w ilh that 
 roe.".tr\ , b'.i; tlie shore is now again ;u'ce'--il)le ; tin- ice had proi)a- 
 tjly extendi';) int'i tlie ocean till the lluctiiation of the wafei'. act- 
 i;ig like a lever, bf,)ki> it in con^i-iiuence ot its ou n e,\teii.--ion ; 
 he rni:;.-(/l '\;i< nii'^ii'v' bai-i'ier have in a great niea.-in-e alloi'ded 
 fie if-e-lr -V ;uid feld. ofir,. wliW;)!. iK-rtieid-u'lv .5;,;;,,- the hi'^f
 
 V \- 1 \ M). Ilui 1 \M) '. M) -'11 'Ml. 
 
 . .i'. . i^ilh.nrjii no! uli'ii tin' 'ii.i' I as'l >< ; i;iil_\ . I'l" |' 
 
 \..,iuoiilil iia\i' lu'i'ii urn ;i ;^ll'l^t.! i-(i!,M _\ , 
 w iiiii--.M-il (m:;- i-]fU-^<]..i! ;iji|..;i!;ir,i < mi" ii.'r ' 
 hfcii sirii liiMi in.' a I'.il .iL-i i-^l i' ]>ii..i'l. ar i . 
 aj.iiii-l alriiiiL: a^ ..,..! ii'l a l\:\f\. vi\ '<;i;!i' 
 nati ill I'l-ir ; i^-'li'"!. :;i I'd r "li .'Iiht. Iiy i xi' a 
 liiii'i-. an I I'l n'..:. !""1 !'' i"<tl. in fji!M.-i:i' <1... 
 \*!,;|c 111.' u i!!- "1 !'' i-aliia ^ii|i:'oi ;- .1 ilnai ! !,; 
 ilia-> -'.Mat'il w 'ill nia- i.!.:;i ^ I., : ,, . , ;i (.;:i kwi < -. 
 'u!i);i n tar ar'i';"-:-. 'ia-;ai -> d' cuiiiL'. \i <Mi 
 ,a'lai- ^Iii|i, llirif ".'.;- a i^ill 1 i.! i ara .1 ixarc'iM- 
 P'aliinn' il. !a ; ' -^ li;- nv. u iilai.-. ; ^ 1: ^a.' i,a i t 
 \ al'' -.,uic \ I ^.. 1 I 1 [n'A. i;i i: - 1 ' : i lii: iwii 
 
 '. 'WV'-r '. : ' 1 ' :''r\ ! ! 
 
 I iia'.r 
 
 '[ a 
 
 ' ' ' , 
 ,;,: i. 
 
 II, jl :!. a-
 
 26' A JOURNAL OF TUAMILS f.N 
 
 held up a decanter of wine, another a gravy-dish, aud a 
 third the soup-bowl ; and it was only in the critical mo- 
 ment betvreen one roll and another, that the knite and Ibrk 
 could be used with safety. Notwithstanding our caution, 
 it has happened more than once to-day, that a sudden 
 a.ntl violent motion of the sliip has thrown us all, with the 
 loose furniture, and table utensils, into a promiscuous 
 heap, while more solicitude has been manifested for the 
 preservation of the food tiian of our limbs. As no seri- 
 ous injury has been sustained, we have been very merry 
 on the occasion, and have enjo3"ed our tumultuous repasts 
 quite as well as on some occasions we should have relish- 
 ed a sumi)tuous entertainment. 
 
 The face of the ocean has exhibitefi a scene of great 
 in'andeur through the whole day. The wind continuing 
 to blow very bard, the captain ordered the dead lights to 
 be lasl.'cd in, and this, as well as oihcr movements on 
 board, indicate an e.\})Cctarion of weather still more tem- 
 pestuous. 
 
 The night came on dark and stornn". and we tlionght 
 ourselves very hapjiy to have escaped the ice bel'ore the 
 commencement of this tempestuous weather. At the 
 same time we were not a little solicitous (or the safety of 
 a ship which passed us just at dark under a great press of 
 sail ; siie was going touju'ds the banks, and would proba- 
 bly, in the midst of tlarku< ss and tempest, be in a few 
 hours entangled in tlie ice ; i.s the two sliijis passed in op- 
 po>il;e directions, within a tf-w yarils ol' each other, and 
 with a wind seiving botli veiy v.'cli, the nu)tion of cour.se 
 appeared to i)e doiibled. and both seemed lo fiy. The 
 j)eople of bolli sliips uttered a sudtien and siinu!tane(riis 
 shriek of teiror. fur v.e came so uiar as lo excite a nie-
 
 S .1. \M>. Hi'l.l. \M) ^^l) M . . 1 1. VM). 
 
 .1,. iit.u\ ,;|)iirflii'ii-i.Mi i.f ^irikiii'.'. ainl in'\( r In imc ua- I 
 ,.. Mu>il(l'' (it ihf I'lKC ulllir ^ho'k ulii<ii imiM, in >\uU 
 .1 cast' If icci'iv 1,1. 
 
 Thr iinkiit>s aihl llu' roiiulmcss uT iLf (iccaii 'j;n(^ iiic 
 nil (ij)iiortuniiv vi u!)m r\iiit: tiio htaiitilul pliriioiin iioii (tt 
 ihi' iilhi-iihorc-rtuiT i>l tiir M'a. 'I'lic ualci. fur in. in} 
 \ aids aiiauid llu' .side^. ami iiiiilt'i- tin- how tif tluvsliiji. 
 -|ia:Kl>',l am! lla^linl in a \(Ty cU>tiiirt ami i)l'a>iiii'- inaii- 
 .i< I'. 
 
 /y/;-/7 I ^. 'I'll.' u iiiil. uiii.-li limiii'r til'' iii'.lit Mcir.l 
 1'! till' .-DUili. lint ui'.in'Ut siili^idim;- at all. in tli>' jirdLjii'SS 
 il llir iiKuniir^ i!ii-ri'a^''(i to a j.:i\v : ani.l lidon' mioii tiii.s 
 -alf iiccaiiir a \i"Iiiil tiiiijU'^t, with d.i^Iii's nl' rain. 
 'I'li'^rc w.is ,1 VfiN l!."i\y s( a. and the inolions ol"tli<' ship 
 \Mii' so siiddtMi and viuifiit. that it was hazardous to at- 
 ti'iiipt iiio\iii'.' v.itliout i-iiii-iaiitly li 'IdiiiL:' la-i Itv s,,|)io 
 ti\i'd o!i|t'tr. \o food conid hr pri'paifd in tin' calioust.', 
 iiid siK h rclct'^irn'iit a^ wc had. was rci-civid. as Ncstfi"- 
 da\ . on llif caltin llooi-. and rvcii in this hnnilih' po>tnie, 
 
 ni' \V< II' liol llllll'i (pirnllv thrown I'lHin uUf sid'' ol' t!l(" 
 
 <H''/in to thi' otliiT. 'i lif ^torni inrirascd in \io!riico 
 tli!'oa'_di the d,i V. so that it lar excci ded e\ i r\ thiiiL' u hirh 
 I had hilhi'iio v.^n ; ;jnd in tin' allcrnooii, Ix'sidr^ th,' 
 l^iiurul \i-lienienci' ol the \\ind, thnr wcii Inqnenl 
 sijiKills. .fiist hrfoir e\eniii'j. uhip- [\\>- captain w.is a 
 slri-p in Ills s'.aii' room, tin- ship liriie; laid i l.i-c (o the 
 wind, uiih iiolhinu ^lamliicj lint a ilonhl'' reel'rd l'ore--.iil. 
 and ill.' lilli i ,11 the li ami- of .i coniimei sailor, a >nddi n 
 .ind \ ml. nl Mj'uall ^Imck n^. uhiili tliiew tlu' hilinsiaan 
 Iron I hi> -I a I ion, s.i ilia I the ship \s a> no loir^Mi iindii' c oil- 
 man. I ot lie inl.l'i': acco|'(llii_.|\ ^hi' hinhnl. a- the 
 -ailor- ^. IV : ill, It i>. ^\w li II into the troir h ol the s. a.
 
 '38 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS XX 
 
 find the next wave, although she was a tall ship of moit 
 than 400 tons, threw lior dou'n upon her side with tre- 
 mendous violence, so tliat a part of her deck was undci- 
 watcr 5 the people, and every moveable thing, were 
 llu'own to leeward, and for a moment, dissnay was paint- 
 I'd in the faccs'of the most experienced men on board. 
 
 The violence of the s'lock roused our sleeping captain, 
 who uas upon deck in an instant ; forced the helm up, 
 with a volley of oaths, and put the ship before the wind, 
 when she righted. The danger was imminent, though 
 iransient, for had the ship remained in the same position, 
 die next sea would, without uoubt, have laitl her flat up- 
 on the water. 
 
 Night, at length set in, dark and dismal ; the tempest 
 raged with more violence than ever, and the fury of the 
 ica was wonderful. To an old sailor it might doubtless 
 have appeared no very uncommon thing ; but to me, to 
 whom these incidents were novel, the scene was awfull}- 
 grand ; and one who has never v/itnessed a tempest at 
 sea, has not enjoyed one of the highest exhibitions of sub- 
 limity. 
 
 I have no pa-ticu!ar dread of the water, and, except- 
 ing this crisis, I liad not supposed our sitnation to be, at 
 any ihr.c, inmiinently dangerous : yet I could not but be 
 astonished that any machine, constructed of such fiail 
 materials as tiiose of a ship, could withstand such shocks 
 us those which we received every moment from the waves, 
 .md whicii caused every timber to treml)le, while the 
 vreacking o'' tlie ship's joints, and the roaring of the winds 
 and waves, rendered it almost impossible to hear any 
 one speak. It was not tin; consequence of weakness or 
 oi' fear, but a natural, antl 1 trust pardonable, cflect of the
 
 FN' I AM), Ili'l.I. AND VNli M .' I I \\!i. 
 
 ^ri'i'.e htf.iif m', lli:it iiidiicfil li'.f to ili'vCtMiil iuto llit 
 In ifail ;t li'ttcr ot" diir inntlici, rtTriv.d i;r,i,i'';i.il( 1 
 lip' I >ail<'il. in which she had iii>riiiii :iii ]\\iry, 
 [irmliiction of Ailiiison, who had dr'uik iii-pirati 
 iDiiiUainN iiidi'' iiuiih' than IK'licoii. Il i> f iill;li 
 TraMll* r'-; llytnn. and mi-hl wrll he ;idi>|i!.d as li.f 
 |ianio;i ci ivt ry ad\ iMitiiriT, whu^ic mind dtu--; \\(<t r,. 
 \\v i l< ;< ul' [iio'frtioii iVoiii on hi'jli.* 
 
 1 
 
 Flow iuc t; y .-rivaiiS !i!.>--(l O !..., 
 
 I Im'.v -lire i- their il(l<-nc'' . 
 I '.'iin.il \\ i 'Imii i- ;in-ir imu!''. 
 'I'Ik ';. lulj. OMiui|",'.nii'. 
 
 In I. M-i-i_-ii rc:ili:> aiiii Kirid- r( a.w'c, 
 Mi|'| 'iW.'!! l.\ 'liV can.- 
 liiiMii-li Karniru' rliiai - tli< y ]: - lu,:, . 
 \ip1 !i!-. a'.'..'- ii!i!,iliil-al air. 
 
 :! 
 \\ laai li_v tl'p .iiviiiiul trtn[T ''...I'r.c 
 
 Ml.jl nu li;- ;::-..k' 11 Wif. >, 
 
 1 i;r \ k ri'H\ i i,. Ill ;i!'t !!<' - ' \\ ; ' i.i , 
 N'T ili,,-.i'.|it !.i -,,\i- 
 1 
 
 i 111- -:>u'ai i- l.ii.l. ! i'L- w lai'i- n : i,'! - 
 < )!,ci!|. Ill I., \l.\ w ill ; 
 
 ! !r -'-.I '!i.a 1 1'. a'- a; !ii_\ ci ana,.-.; : 
 
 \i !'.;. c.aaaMa.I i- -till 
 
 ") 
 la mil! 'Ill il.iii^i-r-. Ir.ii-v ran! ili ,a.ii, 
 
 r;i% _....! v.. i,^,a,,,.' . . 
 
 U ill 1 I ,: i'l.-.- i,ii I! \ !.. :,,,- |.. I 
 All.! lai::.M'. I ir'-c |m|- a: .;! 
 
 I ,,:m1i 
 y !- 
 Miii;. 
 
 iM .It 
 
 Th- 
 
 OiM- i I'-, w iill>l l!,'ia \ -I . r\ -( til. a III. 
 I' . . r . -i; .11 !.. ; 
 A.I ! ! . , u! . a .!. :,;!, J, ,11 ' ourlnl, 
 Sa.ill |Oai laa' -'hi'- t.i li.i r.
 
 Sti A JOrKXAI. OF TKAVELS IN 
 
 About 10 o'clock at night the wind abated, and gradu- 
 aily died away to a still small bi'eeze ; but our situation 
 V. as more imcomfoitable than ever, for the ship, being 
 now without wind to steady her, rolled dreadfully ; sleep 
 was un:!ltuinable, and I could only brace myself in my 
 i/irrli, iiiid wait lor morning. I spent an hour in the evc- 
 iiiiig in viewing the phosphorescence of the waves. It 
 v.'as indeed a beautiful sight. The ocean was covered all 
 over with luminous spots, occasioned by the foam of the 
 vva-vcs, while around the ship, the water glowed and 
 -parklcJ almost witli the brillianc}" of burning coals. 
 When v,-e sliiopcd a sea, tl;e spray appeared like a shovv- 
 .'r of ilie, falling among th ; shrouds, and the deck scenl- 
 '<] to be covered Vv'ith glowing embers. 
 
 TlnNv comes it that the poets, so much celebrated fou 
 .ipprojiriating every brilHant image of natural scenery, 
 -hciSi I liavc made so ilttle use of this ? They have not of~ 
 cii alhided to this phenomenon, which is certainly beau- 
 ilfu! in itself, and eminently so t\om its occm-ring, most' 
 itMuark;'.!;!y, in tempest and darkness, when beauty is con- 
 nastc;] v, ith grand.-'ur. 
 
 -//r// 1!). Tliis day has aflbrded the perfect contrast' 
 af yesierday. It lias been serene and mild, with a bright 
 -^;i!i, iiucl a lair and gentle br(-eze ; it is a most dciighlful 
 i''V( ;, e. ]>nt, the deep hollow roll of the ocean still con- 
 iii'ises. ;ui<! creates no small ditilrulty in writiiiij. '^Flic 
 i-;r:'p''i!lnr a.id all iiar.ds are at work in repiiiring ihe spars' 
 aiul ri'/iii'.!.'', bruken by tiie storm of yesterday. 
 
 ylj,ri/ '2<). And it seems now that these were not the 
 i,:o^t serious iuji;i-ies sustaiised ; the jnmips liav<' l)cen 
 goiri'.'" iVi'(juei'.tkv' lo-da^-, in 'rii>^eniie!if(.,' of our having
 
 f ^/.i \L>. IiULl.ANO AMI -. '"i i ; \M,. .^ t 
 
 IV 111 ilif latr L'al<'. Id' I'ln -!iij) \\ i^ [)ijri'cll_y 
 
 i :h ! .(iv i> 111.; li.i\\f\rr u,i!i_-' iom^ : Uf iii.ii c onlv 
 
 - Mit two !i (! Ill w.itrr in twi'iitx-inni- 1|M||^^. ainl, with 
 
 !': ii.iii iuTt /i'^ u'ni > ri;:i' \\i':iilicr w liirli att'iiil iis 
 
 n-'\\. iiiiv rjiiai.;i;\ ,ii w.it-T i- i-a^iK i< iiii)\ cii. biii. anuth"-! 
 
 \y _m!.- u! uih.; nii'jlit I'l'iiiicr our sitaalioii (lan'_H'ri)Li<, 
 
 I ;:: Muinji- -v \ r\ lia^l. 
 
 /..'/ ,:. i iir win.i iiu'i I'.'t^' .1 liiiriii'i iia' ni'jlit ami 
 
 :'!';i lui" /.('. l.aiK liii^ iiiuniiiiLr. tiii>' ni' tin' watcli 
 
 ... '.".. ;i ;;ii ! r.aiNi'd (lir ( 'a;,iaiii til iul'i 'iiii liiin t'lat, a 
 
 . ->< I. ,1 ji|r ir.:,i' , anufii. w a- In ;! i:"_; ilnwu upon ii-. : tin" 
 
 ii i'Mit ,.i ,1 'j:iii. ;;('! ti) \v laiiw, ai i. a-; a "-iLiiial lor u-- to 
 
 II Ml' til. ( 1 lil!' Iji' ! till- il!l'i>i"l,i;!iiU. < mill.: (Ml til (!;. 1 
 
 i'~'';i;ill\ |p ; >.\r'\ ii.i lM.il, iiii'j iK'ttiu.'. ami 'jmis jxiint- 
 
 : 1 I in 1' 111. It ![.)!(>. W ' Wl'i,- Ml \ ^ 11)11 W itliili dll'; 
 
 1 , !i !- 11 ! in r : ^lir Im-d aiuitlu'i- '. iiii and iii I'.^-tiil 
 
 i I'l ii~, iiiit lliii^i- I'll 1,1'aiil wiiii wi'ir xriM'il ill 
 :i lit r-'jitl'il!^. in 1 !aiiil liial slii' \va> a I irlli'll --liil) 
 
 III .'; ill^l'. I li:> iilljlli -^;ii'l \\a^ Ml vIlnllL'. lll.lt I v.. Ill 
 
 (: w 11 ap.ll l:!ii i!i\ iiiiiii. \ . iiiiU. ami watcli : ami ( 'a|ii. in 
 
 i ji It mi ,1 .jii.it iiiat til lii'li' li:s r.iiti^li iiiiiliiim. 
 
 < >'ir : ii w ii' tii.'.\ ' M 1 iiiii: 1 Is .'H'liii lii-^-. Im - ', ir pi i.\ i i| 
 
 t.i'.. :i Dill':-;! li|i':.ii|' I-' .'Mil . lir-Ii.llrlli'.l 111. Ill n.iili.i- 
 
 . :i. i-ar.\ Ii iai.' !ii"vV-- nl lli" ia\avi -- ruiiia.illi .1. .;ii.i 
 
 . ill Tur W I -t Imiii -. i' . till' 1 ill'! .ill 1 1 l!i.( h- 
 
 ; .i:iii' I II-. Ill iii;!ii\' iKli'i t I ;n / pai i iiMi. ii >. am:. 
 
 ,,. I' : ,1 . 1 I \ 1 ', il I -..I \ ' 1 - )!ii ;, < !i 1 1. .i Ml !'\ im .n> m' I'ui 
 
 II ;, iji. ' . w 1 I ,'1 ( ' i \\ i: a 11 ml 111. .mi. .'i u islir-. I in - w .r^ 
 
 .1.. n 1 .ilii'' I' , ,1,11, ilii'ii I'l .I'l .ili.nr ". liirii h.T'i ii"^
 
 3 2 A .rOLTRXAL OF TliAVELi- IS 
 
 very auspicious bog-inniiva:, for \vc expected u auj^iciiiMiy' 
 visit. 
 
 The wind increasinGf, we soon left tiic armed brip- ('.:v 
 astern, for, witli a very strong breez'\, nnd a ronsiderabk' 
 sea, she was not able to carry much sail ; while, our ship, 
 under a crowd of canvass, pressed forward so rapidly, 
 that, before noon, our late companion was out of sicht. 
 We sailed more than one hundred miles between G o'clock 
 in tlie morning and the same hour in the afternoon, and 
 the evening and night were equally propitious to our 
 wishes. 
 
 yipril 22. Ihit, this morning, the wind lias changed to 
 south-south-west, and blows hard ; a wlialc has this 
 moment passed ahiiost under our bowsprit; the sky is 
 covered with those black ragged clouds, which indicate 
 inconstant and violent winds, and it is higlily probable 
 that we shall have another gale, especially as we are now 
 in the longitude of the Azores, which {)ortion of the sea is, 
 ut this season of the year, a region of storms. Our leak 
 still continu-^s, and excites some apprehension, especially 
 as our pumps are very l)ad, and our carpenter is stupid 
 and inactive. The wind now comes in pulls and squalls, 
 and we are taking in sail. Tliis is the eighteenth day of 
 our passage we are now one thousand two hundred miles 
 from the banks of iScnvfouudland, wli''n.' w(; were a week 
 since, and we suppose ourselves witliin seven iiundred 
 miles of Tn^land. 
 
 9 o^clocl- at iiiffJd. Our apj)reliensions have been re- 
 alized, for, we have sailed all day undtM- a gale, witii rain 
 from the soutii, hut we liave made ten miles an hour, 
 which has fully cdinppusfitcd for rircnm-t,:nces otlirrwise 
 very unpleasant. \V<; arc hap[>y in having a ship which
 
 VVi.l \\U. ll.irt.\M) \Ni> -( ol M). 
 
 IS roni.ii k.f!il\ cajKilili- of cinAiii'j ^;ii! m li< .' vv w iiiiNj 
 nni ni m:il\ii:i: rapiil [in I'ji fv^. \\lit'ii ( 'm-.' liruilid : cii- 
 rii;ii-!;iui'< >., lircl'T wllirli l!i,lll\' otlur >lii[)S would In 
 ("m|).l!r(| I,, lir //,, ,,r to vlimlrii '..lil. 
 
 Ill ill"' a!t< rni>,.ii \vi' Ii.nl a \>w li'a\ \ sea w Ii'k h cxpn ,- 
 
 "i nil' til ^''1 idii^ inii!i-\ . 
 
 l!.'\ii!'j |iit rl-f'ii !r.i;ii iii\' liirlli, I ua> '-laniliii'j In it, 
 .iii'i in tli<' act III' !!!; i\\ iii'j inv ( Inilv hmt ni\ ^hoiMf-i-. 
 uiili .1 \ii'U di' L''i'i '_' "11 lii . k. ulii'ii a -uililfn lull tlin'W 
 nil' 111 a'ilii|]L^ u ilu '_Mi at vinli'iiri' ii't'i tin' liirt'i mi tin" 
 iiji|iOsit>' siilf III' ill.' -.hip. Ilajijiil) !ii\' liiaii \\ i-; va\ril. 
 Iiv in\ >lii>wl.ii r"- '>tiikiii<_' afaiiivt tiii' liuanl which ju'iiti '1 
 tlic hirtli Innii till- cahiM : thi^ uas Indkrii in tun. Iiy tli'- 
 
 -iMck. 
 
 In llii- i;':!nii' r an I'.iiijli-Ii iia\al cdnuiiainicr. a dw 
 vfar- ^iiicc, w a> thii-uii tliri'n..'li a [Hir;-li.>lr in \i\- ca!i,ii; 
 
 ' u a^ IK \ I r villi aii\ iiKc.f. 
 
 'I'lCAaiil-, cM.uliiL' llif u inil shil'li 1 111 the v. i -!, ami Iiii' 
 ^iii. !iii aisiii'j (Mil ill I'lill sjili'iiiliir, 'jiMnl ihi' cluiiil- iiinl 
 til-' \', a\c-. V. hil" the .--I'ldii viili-iiir.l iiUii a line inn /. \\ it'll 
 >i ili.M-ky. 
 
 .Iji;l J '. Till' niiirnin'j cii:ii:::i::ccil uiili -i|ua!l- Irnm 
 N. \ . I .. aiiil laiii : \m- aiilicipaliM: a liiva-jn cadlr ti iv, Im' 
 nir a|iii|ilii'nv;<i;i- h;i\ f in m in snjnc iiumvui i .iisapjH 'iiitcl. 
 
 II i,':iniL. j. 1/. -rin; uiiiil i~ 11. iw \. W. ll)'' 
 SMU -iiim--. and iIp' v'^^ i> ci i\ crri 1. lii ii and Ini'if. wil" 
 till-' llci'c\ (IiiicU w'aa-;! ill iir It.' li /it In c/.'-^ and I'ai; 
 \M ,:lhi r. \ 11 i- ,11 1 1\ ii , an i i!,i i l'.:!;;' -- nn In lai d. vvliiif 
 i\i'i\ ilii'il i- Mini';!. ill d li\ l!ic < . i:iiidi-;it c\ j nctalii ai iif 
 mal^iirj the I iiii 1 vv :i',iii I \Ci i ic' ihn i;a\ . \ II i mr i aii- 
 \a--iv M t, and \\i' lia\r '!ic |il. i-'i!i' lit' -Ml in ' itc..ai 
 ;il''I' l\ 111!' d. 'III. iadicaiina- 1.1 lini- ui- ilii' ! \Mli; liii" -
 
 S4 A JOURNAL OP TUxWELS IN 
 
 ever speedily reversed the wind soon became heavy, 
 and we have sailed, all this day, under the pressure of a 
 gale, which has sent us forward ten miles an hour. 
 
 About 4 o'clock this afternoon, 1 went on deck to view 
 The tumult of the ocean ; the sliip was pressed down so 
 much to leeward by the wind, that her deck was inclined 
 like a roof, and I clambered to the windward railing, anil 
 found a situation where I could hold fast by the ropes. 
 The sea often dashed over the ship, and involved us in 
 such copious showers, that I found it necessary to go be- 
 low. I had scarcely descended into the cabin, when we 
 shipped a tremendous sea ; the wave, as the mate inform- 
 ed me, took the ship sideways through her whole length ; 
 its top curled as high as the mainyard-arm, and it fell up- 
 on the deck with astonishing violence, a universal crash, 
 and an instantaneous suspension of the motion of the 
 ship, as when an ox is knocked down dead at the slaugh- 
 ter. The sea made a full breach over us, and, for a mo- 
 ment, we were buried beneath it, as if we had been sunk ; 
 the decks were swept, and the water came pouring down 
 into the cabin through the sky-light. 
 
 j4jjril 23. Tiie weather has continued extremely vari- 
 able, and the transitions from clouds to sunshine, and from 
 sunshine to rain and violent winds, have been so rapid and 
 frequent, that it has not been easy to say which have pre- 
 vailed, but, in all the bad weather and gales which have 
 attended our passage, we have had the satisfaction of being 
 rapidlv impelled towards LuLdand. The plienomenon 
 which ttic sailors call the sun-dog appeared this afternoon 
 in the .\. E. Jt reseml)les the rainbow, and is doubtless 
 produced on the same principles. Wliile we were at tea 
 this evenintr, tiie c](Hid^ became suddcnlv verv black JiJ
 
 KN'.l.AM), liOl.I, \N .\M> -(-Mil Wit. ^.) 
 
 )iif >. \\ . aiiil pifsfiilK ;i >(|u.ill >tui( k ii-. uiii<ii Idukf 
 niir (ii dur -.luiiiiln.: >;iil \.tr(l>.. We iinint uinti |_\ t.Mik in 
 all mil liL'lit ->ails. u itiiuiii lartluT iiuM-hicl. .illhi.ii':li lliC 
 saiiH' \ar\inu' \Nratlnr ((iiitiiiiK-il tliiouiili llif t\ ciuii/. 
 
 .l/iri/ J 1. Tilt If ua^ a t)riHiaiit laiiiliDU this iiidiniirj 
 in till' ui si. ami a> \\v \\>vr imw iPiitt'iuiiiiL'' uitli a Ina'l 
 SI a. ilif s|iia\ lamstaiitK idokf mrr tin' ships" Imi\v. ami 
 [n. >< iilid a laiiiltuu uhi'iit'Mr tin' sun shniif. \ti\('- 
 iiiiiL'. thi' I aptaia. I)i iii'j coui'iilriit lliat tin' liisli rnast cduKl 
 i;.i! li" r.ti- ili-iaiit. nr.l.Tiil iniisi ,,{ (ii;r canvass to !). takfU 
 111. list \\r slmiilil run iipnii it ill till' liaik. DiiiiiiL' the 
 sill riT'liii'/ nii'lit. till' wind lilmv I'uriniish , an<l sipialN at- 
 Ti'micd i|s till' ii''\t ila\. till tDwaii.'s i'\,-ninL'. wlim thr sea 
 -iiu<i''iil\ \MiiI liown anii hrcanH' ('iiiiij)arati\rly smiHith ; 
 III" 'jnlls li nl lipcoini' \vi\ iiuinrro'as. ami we had mi ih mlit 
 iliat iaml uas ii'-ar. 
 
 //>/,'/ J.''. Till' uiml lili'w fiiiidUslv tliroii'j;! n pait I'l 
 
 ' iiij'i! : ami. this liav iias nut Iniii \\li(.ii\ lice Irmii 
 ili'i^.' si|nails wlmii li.isc aiim.',..] us sn nimli ol l.-itc. 
 I ill' WHi'l has 1)1, ,un Inmi N. N . I'., uiiirli lia.s [iri\rntiil 
 air niak;n_' innch (uaiiriTss, altln: i'_li wt- iia'. r li'-i'ii ahh' tu 
 . ! ji I 'ir (aust'. 
 
 No liis'i roast ajipi-ai's as _M'I. imt onr i'" kiai:!)_^ ami 
 
 list! ii o'.-i r\a;ions im'acc ns to liriic\" ili.u it canno; 
 
 lar la-iaiit. and ln;s mi 
 
 ^!;il i^ siirn''l! 
 
 iM\ inj liailiut' '_iilis consiantlx willi ii.s -\i.r'- \ rsti iil,i\' 
 nnaain,.', and w r iia\r iml ^ I'li an'. Ii.'loif. -n;." we liii 
 ':ii li,iii'-.s ni \i-\v iMund'and. in tin' a'ti-rnon l!ic .si a. 
 \i. inidi iia I !i' 1 n i ininai'j la'. Ii. s'iddi a! '. \v I'lit d' \ui, and 
 ihr on .Ml 111 1,011 ' rMni|iar:ii i\ I i\ Mno,iiii. 'j n' - dun! 'til ; 
 ' si- ti ,;ni "'II li.i\ ii! ; '.'nt niidi I I ill 1, ' 1 ,t 1 1 1 l.ind. \UMi ii. 
 
 ;tll li,'- W pa; I i; ''l' :! ' 'i;' '. \'. d ' ' - ''':'' a
 
 36 A JOIRNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 ish the swell. We sounded at 8 o'clock, P. IVI. for the 
 first time; but without finding bottom. 
 
 j4pril 26. We were more successful at midnight, when 
 we sounded again, and found bottom, and we are still on 
 soundings with a smooth sea and wind blowing fresh from 
 N. E. We have not the smallest doubt that we are now 
 immediately soul!) of Ireland, although no land is visible 
 ihis morning. The winds have prevailed so nnich from 
 the North, for a iew days past, that we have been prevent- 
 ed from making cape Clear, and the southern coast of 
 Ireland as we intended. The sky is now cloudy and the 
 weather cold. 1 trust that our passage is drawing to a 
 conclusion. It has, thus far, been prosperous, but you, 
 who ha\ e been at sea, will not find it very difficult to be- 
 lieve, that I have confracted no great partiality for this 
 mode of life. The objects which I have in view, have 
 liiade me endure its many privations and dangers, with 
 cheerfulness, and when my business is finished in Europe, 
 the delightful prospect of returning to my friends and 
 co\mtry will make me encounter the same things agrdn 
 with alacrity. We have a huge and convenient shiji, with 
 i:. spacious and handsome cabin, genteelly furnished. 
 
 My fellow passenaers are two English, two Scotch, and 
 one American. Tlsere are a few circumstances respecting 
 some of them which propriety does not forbid me to 
 iiiention, and which may perhiips interest you. 
 
 Or. R. is an ivnglislirnai), and 1 ha\e tk^ived nnich 
 f'leasure fron his ccnversa'tion. He went out to India 
 eight >e;u's ago, and has, I believe, been connected wiih 
 ilie l^rilisi! armies there, in a njedical caj)acily. nm-iug 
 the late siiort i!it<'ival of jicace between France aiKi (ijcai 
 Britain, he wen! fo tiie hA<^ o\ F)-ance !br his beaUh.
 
 1-Ni.i wn. ii>)ii \M) \M) -(iiii.\Nr. 
 
 W !iii-- ihtit'. \v;ir hioLc c>iil a-;iiii. aiul tic 1 r- m li. w iili 
 til'- ^aiiif trfa<Iifrnii>^ |H>!i(\ which !'.u'_\ :'ii.ipl'-.l in Va:- 
 I'ljif. put him into pii^nii. whtif he \sa> .li laiiird f. i.li' ii 
 iiiciiilh^. \\v is ("iiMi'ii'ialils MTScti ill ( 'iii'ini>iry. ainl has 
 a haiiilsoiiit' shall' o\ L:iiit ral iiilormatiiiii. ami >( [idiw 
 liti'iatiin'. 
 
 Mr. S. is a Si-c.ii-hn;an, who !. < hirii in tin' ^i !\ ac nl 
 
 ihr Kir^Ii-li I'.a-t liiiiia ( 'i>iii|ian\ . I If w as <Mj)i!i'> li ':i 
 
 lii- Ihiiiirvvaril li.iiiinl i.assa-.'. aiiil <'ar!-i''il a ]Mi-iii''i' {> 
 
 l!l.' !-!.' <'I l-'iaiifr. uli. arc 1,.' IKiW jilMcrds I ,_\ li,.'Ma_\ 
 
 of \iiiiiica f(i I".ii'_I:iial t" hi' fxrh ni.i'il. \'.\'\\ i-irriini- 
 
 >tani'i> t'l this (It^^iTijitinn appliis ((;nali\ l.> ( 'ijita:n I. 
 
 .\i > pi lliat tiK- latti'i' w as ill liii' la;:.! ai:i! i li'' I'lriH' r in 
 
 thi' -''a -r\i.-f. Ml'. S. i- puNs,^..,! ni ii ,; -'.v^:'.': IM- 
 
 liuii il p.!!tiaht\ \\ hii h iiMiaIl\- iIcmh i-hi-. w rh .!; \ i. -a-. 
 
 in I ha' h|i' i-t III' ,1 Si-iiir!na:':i. aiiil I aai .>i;i n ai.a; .! with 
 
 ili^ |i i\i'nl 1 a!<iL'i< ^ nil Siiili h iir;aii".'s. i'a<-ii aii'! ln;a_^. 
 
 \\r 1,,!^ the liiil hiM-u.'. aih! phiair- hiai-rlf r.ci a lill'a na 
 
 thi' < h'\ a.tii'ii (>l h!^ riMii'i ! \ man il'urii i[ai\ I'l'n'las. 
 
 ( aptain T. I h-hi.''. ! .\ '^ his c.^ni'i . \ ,|. \',.!! as Iii^ 
 
 riri'ii. hnt I'l'ii'ii \"\\i< lis ill I'a i:!a.ii \\'':'r!i i^ i-\'ii -^ \-\ 
 
 ill"' I i!i hn-ia^ai ni hi-- ci ai; j i ni n. I ii' !h ais ihi' o iman - 
 
 -inn nl his ^ia;^-i\. a- i raplani in ihr ! i-Mi r .'ina al n| 
 
 r>iiii-li iatanli}. Iln i- Inil ni _ n,'! h'linnMr. aiul nali'.'' 
 
 _ai'i \ nj' .!io.,,-i; n'!. ami di'. 1 1- na' la a h. h\ i'a' in mm i' 
 
 in \^ :ilr|i hr //r/.-i ,',(.< ih" 'l''''s. 'Il.i- la' i!..i-. ;' i han- 
 
 i":':hi'r. in a u,i\ pi'!,'rll\ in > hanii-'l. II - -ii p i-; 
 
 an i-nri''!- as it I" aai-i-'. -ni ii i- I'a :..ri'c nf h.;'nt a.i ' 
 
 \i> .n'tn III -. I'lii/f^- ai','! i.''iii'y. \ia n hi- iia'-i lanh-- 
 
 1 a M : , I . I r, - , i ' ; - i a - ! i \s i i M i ! n a ! ! ' n ! , , a I ! 1 a h i - i ' > , a i . n ' . 
 
 \i;'l iiali'i .1 h< lia> nan'' i !aa;'s 'n t'a' clia'a' ti i ^l' a -'il- 
 
 ',! iiMii wii'l !m '.'n_' In i:i- '/ail aia' nniit.'iai. l!i' '-.a
 
 38 A JOURNAL OF IKAVEI.S IN 
 
 been extensively concerned in the English wars in Indm 
 and was present at the famous assault on Seringapatam. 
 He saw the carnage, not only of the soldiers of Tippoo 
 but of his people, great numbei's of whom had taken re- 
 fuge in the city as a place of safety. They refused all 
 quarter, and rushed desperately on the bayonets of theii 
 enemies. 
 
 I have never before conversed with one who had been 
 a spectator of the voluntary immolation of a wife at the 
 funeral of her husband. In one instance the female was 
 only eighteen years old, and very interesting in her ap- 
 pearance. The horrible rite was performed in a grove. 
 Troops were drawn up to keep order, the Brahmins at- 
 tended to fortify the mind of the young devotee, and a 
 promiscuous throng of Hindus and Europeans crowded 
 around, to witness this sacrifice to superstition and mista- 
 ken conjugal affection. 
 
 The young woman, with the heroism of a martyr, plac- 
 ed herself in the midst of the combustibles destined for 
 her funeral pile, and having laid the head of her deceased 
 husband on her arm, with her own hand lighted the fire. 
 The Brahmins, without delay, projected a powder into 
 the flames, which they said would destroy all sensation, 
 and the fire soon enveloped both the dying and the dead. 
 
 The same gentleman assures me that he has often wit- 
 nessed the adoration paid to the Cow. They prostrate 
 themselves before her image which is placed in all their 
 pagodas, and when passing the living animal, they wavp 
 their hands in token of obeisance, and manilcst tiieir de- 
 votion even l)y acts of tiie most extraordinary and dis- 
 sustiiiij character.
 
 K.N.;l. \SD, lioLI. \ND AM) Ni'Dll.VND. ))' 
 
 M\ ollici Cdiniiaiiiuiis ;ur .iiMKihli' iiirn.iuul ;ill iiave 
 muiirrvti'il ail uhli^iiiLr, accoiniiioilaliiiL' t^'iiiin r. I'>_\ Illi^ 
 wiiir, as ym may well siipposf, we luive Ixooiin' laiinliar- 
 i/.i'il to each otlu-r's sucictv, and Icel soHK'tliiiii: like a scii- 
 lUii'iit ui faiuily attachiiirut. 
 
 'I'liroutrh the roinaiiuier of the day, we luni lii:hl and 
 oiiirarv winds and made !)ul little jiroLMess. 
 
 Ipril 27 . The last lut'lit was very tjuiet ; llii> niorw- 
 ni'i the sun shines, the weather is mild, the surface of the 
 > haiuii 1 is smooth, and, allliouirh the wind i> eoniraiy. ue 
 lie cheered with the idea th^'t \v< must be within seventj 
 miles of llic Kn'jlish coast. 
 
 W e looked in v.iin till 5 o'l Kick in the afternoon ul this 
 driv. uiien a man from the uui^t-heatl e\(lainied land! 
 land ! on the weatlier hou ' >- * * v 
 
 I ui'iil uj) the slnoud-i, and ^aw a mountain in Irelaml 
 vJiicii appeared like a W( 11 di fined cloud in the ed'je (d 
 ill' liori/.on. This more than \vt Icume oii|< ( t occn|iied 
 uur eves till cveuin'j^ veiled it Iroin our \iew. 
 
 The wind wiiicii, a little fteiuce, had heen ia\oiuMMi, 
 ,ii(n came back to the N. \.. aii i ue made \tr\ little 
 headway throinjli the nijhl. Imh-ed our proL:iis> has 
 heen \ery slow lor the la>t tuo oi- three days, and iiad I 
 not lound some amusemrnl in writint.', they uouid h,i\'e 
 {! u extremclv tedious. 
 
 .l/inl Js. In the inornini: the lulls of ii.l.uid i)ecame 
 more and more distinc!. We >aw sac(-:>si\ . Iv, thf heit'lits 
 of W all rlord the lolu mount. iiii> of Wickiou . a; a ^'r<at 
 distance ovir land lie' .'*^alt( i l-laud>. .n ar and \erv >'u , 
 tiucl. and la^tK, ('.iiu>-oii- pouil .ml ihi: Tuvc.ar roci.. 
 o|'.^!|lu!inL' I'.e' -o'lth-i'a-"' 1 :i <'\i;"'jnii \ n: Im l:e.i.|, w !ii,-li
 
 40 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS, IS 
 
 it was necessary to double in order to enter the Irish chaih 
 nel. 
 
 It was now past noon, when tlie wind increased and 
 came more ahead, and the sky assumed a very threatening 
 aspect. After dinner it began to rain and to blow hard; 
 and we fearer] tliat we should not be able to double the 
 point. It soon grew dark, and the night came on, very 
 Tempestuous, with a rocky lee shore, within three leagues, 
 and the wind which was increasing, blowing directly upon 
 it. The captain thought that under these circumstances, 
 (he attempt to double the point, would be extremely haz- 
 ardous, but, as the wind v/ould be a free one, the moment 
 we should pass the Tuscar Rock, which was now not 
 more than seven miles from us, and the alternative was 
 either to do this, with a fair prospect of running the length 
 of St. George's Channel before morning, or to tack and 
 stand out to sea again, to avoid being driven on to the 
 reefs, we felt the temptation very strong to attempt what 
 was really rash, if not impracticable. Thus situated the 
 Captain called the passengers together to know whether 
 ! hoy would risk their personal safety in the attempt 5 it 
 ^vas unanimously decided in the attirmative. 
 
 Accordingly we tacked, and stood for the north, but the 
 siorm soon increasing to a furious tempest, attended with 
 he most impenetrable darkness, and the wind driving us 
 directly and rapidly towards the Tuscar rock, we were 
 ..educed to the mortifying necessity of standing away from 
 iiie land, towards the ocean. The gale soon became ex- 
 rj-enifly violent, but we rode it out in safety. During the 
 >torm 1 took my station along with the master in the com- 
 panion way. VVf sjilit our fore-top-sail, and such was the 
 thry of the winds and waves, that tiie ca{)taii) was oblii''-''
 
 t\ .LAND, HOLLAND AND SCniLAND. -.1 
 
 i> L'ui' Ills lorninaniis llutniL'li llu' spciikiiij Iriimixt. ami 
 :ii- .-at I IS, u lip-li urrc now iiioro Iio(|iiL'nt and iuip'ums than 
 iMial, \vvi> tliundcred out from this br.iZ' n throat, v. Ith a 
 
 lO' that -jM.ke 
 
 l.iiaiitT than tlip tem|ip.-t," 
 
 llii' >ciiit' ua'; v<>ry siihUme ; thf sea was ocn'orod all ovel* 
 uth !iiiniiii>ii> rid'^t's, and the spras , as it daslu'd over tho 
 -iiiiwalf, I'll in sliouors ot' fin', whilf til'' wavt's slu-d a 
 iiNnial liL'ht on tiif darknt >s \isihli','* and I'ornu'd a small 
 lioii/on ol" ilhuninal'd watiT aioimd the shi[). Ahmit I 
 o'cloik ill iht' murniii'j. the wind hr<_'an to ahat<' : a lit-avv 
 rain di-hi!:'''! tin' decks, an<i at 2 tiicwind shil"t<d : tlr' 
 --torin was hillfd almost to a calai ; thr s!\V became siid- 
 dt'ulv cjriir, and apprarrd ot" an im<'ommonIv dorp a/.un'. 
 uhilf till' st;.!> >honc with wundorliil biillianc\. W'liat a 
 iiMiIrast ' < 'ill' hour Ix'forc, all was darknt'ss, tempest ;i(! 1 
 I'urv ' 
 
 .Ij/ril J' I. '1 lii> iiioininL' the weather was mild, with a 
 clear skv and verv little wind ; no hind in ^ijlil. The 
 apj)earances dl' fine ue;ither pniNed li()\\r\tr \er\' deh;- 
 
 ,-i\e. \h(iut ') ii'elock \. M. tile W illd came hack to th' 
 
 old point. \i/,. N. I'., and snon hei/an to hhov iiaid: in a 
 1' w nli!lnI<^ the skv v\ as covered uiih dark ilouds and thi' 
 wind in< nsiied to a 'jale. which < ontinned all da\ ano 
 rai-iii a he,iv\ sea. |!ut. just heliire evenin',-. the (dmids 
 dispersed, rind the sim shone out. uilh 'jieat hrilhancv. 
 
 Ilnff-jiasf '),/,larL, r. v. Inder easv s.^l , ar- 
 il o stain ill) 'J I'll tow aids jionit ( arnsoic. \\ Ikmi I lie stni in 
 cleared a\\a\.\\<' disco\cied the same land which \\e saw 
 ve>terdav iuid uei'e happy to find that we had not Ics: 
 uiwch. The s|.,\ is char and we hone io hold onr cou: '
 
 4:2 A JOUKNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 I.' jrincf most of i'le day several ih'ps were in sight wilii 
 tlove-rtcfcfJ V,: is tnd borne down on one side ith tlie 
 force of tde wi'id 3 fine obj^'cis for the eye and for the 
 pencil, 
 
 April 30. \Ve had liijht winds all last night, and be- 
 ing close hauled, we made but little progress. To-day we 
 have doubled point Carnsore, and with light and contrary 
 jvinds. are beating slowly towards Liverpool. 
 
 2 o'clock, P. M. The weather is mild, the sun shines 
 bright, the surface of the water is smooth as a mill pond^ 
 nd it is impossible to imagine a more delightful day. 
 Here we are my dear brother in the midst of the Irish 
 Chaniic!. perfectly becalnv.'d, but, I console myself during 
 !he detoutioii. by recalling you to my recollection. On 
 the ]."U we have the moiiiitains nf Wicklow, and on the 
 right th(;^e oi Wales. >t. Oavid's Head in Wales, and 
 r'le little riit^er of ishunl-. called the Bishop and his 
 rlerl<'^. aic in lull view. The land on either side h.as- 
 iiiucii tVie same ojipearance as Long Island used to have 
 nom Holland Itiii.* cxce|)t that it is much higher. The 
 laountains of \\ icklow are coinju'scd in part of whitish 
 -and, wITh h appears in t]ie siui like dirty snow. Wilfj 
 ihe glass [ can distinctly see the channels worn in the 
 iVills bv the rain. Tiic mountains of Wicklow allbnf 
 pure gold : tliey were the principal seat nf the late Irish 
 rebellion, and it is said that the government are now em- 
 ploying five hundred men to clear them of woods, that 
 iliey may not again alTord an a^\lum to banditti. 
 
 Ha/j'-puxt C) o'clock. P. M. We have just returned 
 lioin an exclusion to a fishing bciat, lying ai)out a mile off, 
 1,1(1 becalmed like ourselves. Vv'e were intkiced by idle;- 
 
 \ri rrriinriice r>rav I'i'.iiTic! '. in (|nnc";Tn.lI^
 
 FN'i WD. H'M.i.AND wn M'^rr. vsD. 
 
 '1 ; 
 
 fif^v. !i;ir \( ,i(li. r ,i!i I ;i \\ 1-h to 1. .11 11 til'' iii'\v>, as liud, 
 \ !. iiji' iiril 111) cuMi 11 hi; licit it 111 w itli tlif sin lie. Acror- 
 ., i.!\.\M- li'Wi'icil liowii ;;ic \,i\\l.aiui ni'.M'cl to tlir li-li- 
 'M'. b'l.ii. i iit'i'i' \v( I'l' tliii'c [ii'iijilc on lioanl. \\ lio aiiprai- 
 ' i iiiufii ii riilii'ii at our a[t[>r()ar|i, i|c)iil)llr>>, Mi|)|ni^iii'? 
 I 'a' uc 'Acj-c ri-\<iiuc n!Viocrs or a prfs.> L'aii'i- 'lliis lat- 
 iu|'r'.s-ioii iiiijlit uill liav arisen liom tln'ir s<Miii2 
 ' 'i I iiii 1 . la nii'i^ii unilorni. and tlif n'-t *>( ii-^ in blue 
 .;; |i'..;- Mi'i pav.'alooii-;. W f loLiml that tin,' littli' 
 I' ' w . - , Ma III! ai-oiiil) ill ( 'oriiu all and bound to 1 ,iver- 
 I' '"!. 1 In \ Ii id iKi nru-. but liuv uavc i:s two lliif pol- 
 [" 's. a kind of ti^li r' -in bli If/ Cod. and w < prfst iitcd tin 'in 
 '.. itii two bottles of liraiidv. To this couiiiliiiu'iit they 
 ^< 'Mil d \ 1 1 \- iiidilN'it nt, audwf I'd't tlifui w it!i a stroii'j 
 i:n[ui -sion th ir tln'V wiac umIIv MnuL'L,dta<. TIhv told 
 II- tiia; till- ('oriii-ii niintas \u-rt' about vl^iwji. Jra/ii undir 
 _' r'/ii,i'l. (ij M|)|i.i-.c thf ( xcrulioii ot -onn' laU' law s ciiacti d 
 .|Jalll^t xniM'jjliirj. 
 
 ^Im/ I. l.a-t <'\vui'ii: ' brci'/.c ^inaii'j u]', v.hicli. al- 
 I'aoii'jii n>'ails alirad. rnablid u- to vt;i,id slow ly anos> tin- 
 iiioiiili oi' ( ardi'ian i'.a\. At j-unri-r tiii-i nioiniii'j. wv 
 v.i|, a!iita>t ol l'.,u-dM-\ Islr.and Ih.icv ll>-,iil. .i part ol 
 ( na iiar^'in-liiic in \\ ah <. Ireland i- tlii-^ monifiit in 
 Ti'W. ,ii ;i v'li at di-tincf. and uo arc luaiin^' aiao^^ the 
 ^liani;-'l liark and lorua! d. di-.|iutiiij u illi an ad\ii sc u ind 
 .1 .1 ';r,io-,inL' <aiiiiaits, fVi'iA iindi ol our |iro'_'i r-^. 
 
 ii i~ t' diou- to III- ditaimd in tlii^ ui.ouh r so n^ar our 
 p.i! :, '.'>. w iiii a liir u ind. w -liould h i\ bi ni at I .i\ rr- 
 
 j 1 uitiiiat\(o das- lioiu mil (..luiii.: iip'Mi ".oiiinliiiL's, 
 
 \\][, ,;i, ilu- iv l'i>- s:\ili d.i\ siiirr tiiat ovriit. 'I'o coni- 
 ri''.!s,(!.' t' r oiii- i|-!a\. \\i- tjt\' ;ia'* uath''r: \\i- ar'; n'W
 
 44 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 Standing across the mouth of Caernarvon Bay, witii ihf. 
 hills of Caernarvonshire iu full view. 
 
 While we are still at sea, and before my impressions of 
 this mode of life are sensibly weaker.ed, I will give you my 
 views of it. In the regular American ships, which art 
 fitted expressly for the purpose of carrying passengers, 
 there is more comfort than one would naturally expect at 
 sea. 
 
 We have had a very good table, nor have we been de- 
 ficient in the articles necessary to furnish a genteel desert^ 
 and in the usual inducements to protract an afternoon sit- 
 ting. At sea, when time hangs heavily upon one's hands, 
 and where the appetite, after a recovery from sea sickness, 
 becomes very keen, the temptation to indulge in the plea- 
 sures of the table is veiy strong. Dinner is exjiected with 
 great impatience; it is the most interesting event of the 
 day, and the motions of the Cook and Stew ard are, during 
 fine weather, watched with more solicitude than those of 
 the Captain. But, the culinary department of our ship is 
 very deficient in neatness. The vessels are not clean, 
 the Steward is good natured, fat and dirty ; and the cook, 
 a ragged, forlorn negro, is scarcely less covered with soot 
 and smoke than his own caboose, the little empire over 
 which he presides. His station is regarded by the sailors 
 as a degraded one, nor, are even the Carpenter and Stew- 
 ard, although elevated above the Cook, considered as on a 
 level 'A ith the common sailors. They have a professional 
 pride which disdains to consider any one of the crew on a 
 footing with themselves except those wl:o are actually en- 
 grossed by the care of navigating the ship. The rest they 
 regard as '' lubbers,^' and never fail to make them the ob-
 
 KNi.!.\ND. HOLLAND AND miTI,WI). l.' 
 
 l('Ct> (if I iiliriilc, wlitii, tliroiiuli stri'^>; ol' wcalln'r. tlitv urf 
 'I'l- II il up till' sliroiids til ill) ihiXy ahil't. 
 
 I 111- cahiii. lit'ini: at (iiicc lifd i-omii. jiailuiii and (iiii'mt: 
 iMiiii lor s ) lar'L'"' a mimlicr ni' pcoplt'. aiiJ, Ixiii'j lialili'. 
 uli'ii tli'TO i-i a tiri". ti> smukc witli rvfiy liitrli uiml. ha- 
 Usually an dtl'i ii>!\o sirki'nini: atniosptit'iT, wliirli iv not ai 
 all ctii ifctfil !i\ tlif cuiicnts lioni tlir hold l)flo-. into 
 whnli tlif St''\vard must ol'tcii ilisct'ud. to l)i'nii: up tlio 
 ahin proviMou<. and ni our case, tlu' evil is a;i::niiMitt'tl hy 
 til'" ^nxll I'loni a quantity ol' hides iiioistrncil li\ tin' l>iL"' 
 water, uhicli has been abundant since we spruuL' a leak. 
 
 ."sleep i> much ilisturbcd by tlif ine\itable circum*tance-- 
 ot a sea lile. One must repose in a narrow space, where 
 the liuibs can b(> extended in only one direction; the roll- 
 iuL' ol the ship throws him troni one side to the other ol 
 his narrow biith: the rrtakini: of the l)oards and timber- 
 the loarinj- 111" the winds and the tlashint: ofthe wa\t's 
 the snoiiuL' I'l some ol tlie pa-senL^ers the talkiirj of oth- 
 ers asleep, and awake tlit> retchiiiL' oi those who are 
 alVecti'd with sea sickness the llappiii'j of the sails and 
 ropes, and the trarniiliuL^ and vocilerations of ihe sailors. 
 Ml niana'jiii'/ tiie ship, all coiuair to put to lliLdit a'.neealilc 
 flieaius. and rilieshiii'_r slundiers. 
 
 \nd not uiilie(peull\ . oil w ak i ii';. win u roiiscionsnr'sv 
 is just reiiiriiiiiL;. tiie thou'/in that \ou are alloat in the 
 inidsi ol" a di srri of water, alpae ihe le ik. lie' broken 
 paiiip, till' suiideii i^ust, ill.' inii|ui'_'lit coHisi, .ii. llie contla- 
 
 _M,llio|i and lllr lempest |na\ so, ,11 s,-|i,l yo!| to till' otllel 
 
 norld. will st, al arro-> tli'" mind witli inelamdiol v forelio- 
 
 Neitlier is M po^Nilil, III have inv r.ilioual and jn I'lit.ibl' 
 lispo.id ot t'iiii'. ( )iu' ciouioi ir.iij, .xc'iii soini.lliin<4
 
 46 A JOUKNAL OF TRAVELS IJ* 
 
 very light and amusing, and that in a very desultory way. 
 You can have no retirement, and you have no heart to take 
 hold seriously of any important volume. You must be 
 confined to the society of those on board, and if they offend 
 you, by conversation which violates equally the lav/s of 
 morality and religion, and those of delicacy and decorum, 
 there is no remedy but to bear it. Thus surrounded and 
 *?ncumbered, you will saunter from the quarter deck to the 
 cabin, and from the cabin to the quarter deck ; and in the 
 morning, you will wish it were evening, and in the eve- 
 ning you will wish it were morning. 
 
 The only exercise consists in walking the deck, and 
 this is so often interrupted by the weather, that both health 
 and spirits lie at the mercy of the elements. 
 
 The sabbath is out of the question, and if any attention 
 is paid to it, or indeed to any religious duty, it must be 
 within one's own breast. Add to all this, the constant 
 Hiidreal dangers of the sea, which, it is true, in the present 
 improved state ot naval architecture, and of navigation, 
 are wonderfully reduced in number, but which the columns 
 of every newspaper evince to be still very serious. These 
 being my impressions, you will not wonder that I have 
 contracted no peculiar partiality to this mode of life. But 
 there certainly are agreeable things attending it. No 
 doubt the greatest alleviation would be found in select and 
 interesting society. 
 
 I fear I may have become tedious while I have gone on 
 from day to day, recording the changes of wind and 
 weather, and endeavouring to sketch the ever-changing 
 aspect (if sea and sky. 
 
 But, at sea, dependant as our comfort, nay, our very ex- 
 istence always is, upon the most mutable of all things, th**
 
 f.Nv,l..\M, HOLLAND AND XOTLANi). 
 
 41 
 
 ;i>|)f(I ot tilt' >kv. tlu" lorcc ami direclioii oltlu' uiiid. ami 
 till' iiiiiiioii oltlii' waves, tiu'sc tnpics assiitiif an impMitanrt* 
 uliicli tlu'V r;iii iifvtT liavf on land, and. an apii|.)<jy tor 
 tilt ir Irctjiit'iit intrtxliiction is rrrtainlv minetessary. Still, 
 tliiMi' issnidi a di'L'rt'f ot" >anifnt'ss in the iiioidfius ot' a sii 
 liif. that it is dilliciilt to L'ivt^ tlif narratiim ut" tlicni any 
 coii^ithralilf tlii: '(* ol iiitfifst. 
 
 i'.xilcd fonipli'tt'h' tVnin ttii' itst of iiiankind, aiul ron- 
 ijiH'd til a tl'>atinL' prison, cvfry thiiiL' intfrfstiirj- in the 
 I liaiactfis ot" till- It'W around out', is spccdHs fxhiiustcri, 
 aiid llif sfciiiTv ol tlif oci'an sonn <jro\\s too I'ainiliar to 
 oxfif ;inr\v llir plciisiin- whiidi it at tirst jxuduct'd. 
 
 [ii tint' wiatlitT. it" i niav Ixurow a tiitf alhiNion.' tho 
 old iii'inirt li III tilt' dft'p is so p!;i<ld. that his sniilts are 
 insipid ; ami w Inn hf i isfs in hi-> niiLdit. ami crow ns hiinsclt 
 '.villi all tlif tirrors ot his storiiu ilomaiii. his countcnam-e 
 IS so tiiMff, that a<toni>hn 'iit ai\i\ tlisinav f\t hul'' f\t ry 
 j>i'r<'ptii>n ol' lit-aiity. ;md li;a\f tmly an iiiiprf>sion ol' ;i 
 ^ ii;d I'! Ii'iiiliik' '.M-indtiii'. 
 
 'I lie tiasi Her on land is roiistantly I'litiTtaiiifd with thf 
 \aryin'/ Ix-.iutifs ot' land-fapc : and il thf sccno of hi^ 
 tiuM Is l)f anion'j ci\ ili/.id im-n, fon\t^rsatinii afl'oids hini 
 a iii\fr lailim,' sonrcf ol avii'taldf iin idi nt : if in ii foiin- 
 :iy. rfimwii'il in amii'iit slot \ . ami alioiindini: with the 
 bt-autii's of fiiltivatii.n aud th>' prmliiitiMn- of the ,iri>. hf 
 .iiu-t il'' \ . ry unfortiiii.itr indti-d, if. with ^uniciful l'i-:;ri-, 
 at- (Miia 't Iimi sonit'lhiiif to fiili\ fii tin' ti ilion^ linidl ol 
 d iti-v, pi: r.v. ami disiam''s. In sm It ,i roniiti\ I l.'ope 
 >oiiii t.i hf. whfii I tin^t 1 ni.i\ liiid nialtfr wliicii \s '1 
 ill'.ird tip s'lli'fct Mf iiinif f rit' : t liniii'j iMrriti\f i!mii th. ' 
 \0!!' h h '.- now Ol rii:ii( d t\\fnt\ ^'mii da\-.
 
 48 A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS IN 
 
 5 O'clock, P. M. Tlie wind enabled us in the morning 
 to pass nearly across r'aernarvon bay, and to bring Holy- 
 head, in the isle of Andesea, into full view. For some 
 hours we have had a flat calm, and the current has set us 
 over towards the southern side of Caernarvon bay. We 
 are not more than eight mile-: from the shore, and T have 
 been taking a view of the sublime scenery of this part of 
 the Welsh coast. 
 
 Some of the mountains which line the shore, are lofty, 
 and th(;ir tops are covered with snow. With an excellent 
 glass I can see the slo])es of the hills and mountains, co- 
 vered, to the very feet of the cliffs, with green fields, cotta- 
 ges, and cattle. Most of the mountains are very rude and 
 ragged, consisting of bare rocks, rising in some instances, 
 into obtuse cones, and in others projecting, with perpendi- 
 cular cliffs, into the very water. The inland mountains 
 appear still more lofty. There is one, whose summit is 
 covered with snow, and enveloped by clouds, rolled up 
 around it like curtains ; I wish to recognize it, as the fa- 
 mous Snowdon, but there is no one on board sufficiently 
 versed in the geography of Wales to inform me. 
 
 A beautiful, and to me, novel contrast, is now before us. 
 It is formed by the deep verdure which covers the feet 
 and declivities of some of the mountains, and the snow 
 which crowns their tops ; the transition appears, in many 
 instances, perfectly abrupt; the most vivid green termina- 
 ting in the purest white. Were I a painter I would arrest 
 these transient images of beauty and grandeur, that I 
 r.iiiiut iriicw with }ou and 11 , the pleasure which I now 
 enjoy, l)Ut you must except the humbler efforts of descrip- 
 tion. ins^c.'lfl of tlie mniiical effects of the uen'^i).
 
 Mfiif J. W,' Ii;m1 n lair hrcr/c. lor ;i ^Inut tiiiio, l.i^l 
 . V. ntii'i. I)iit it sdiiii lucaiiK' ciiitraiy. anil \\r spi iit tlii' 
 Mi'.'lit ill lirannu. 
 
 !( (I'rlnck. This inDiniii'i wf fiiKi oiir-clvcs rlosr uii- 
 <\t'v llolvluad, ami tlii' ishiiui of Aii'jicsra cni our ri'jiit. 
 \\ liili; till' 1-tt" of .Mai) ajiprars on our Icl't. lint at a 'jrcat 
 flixianrc. Ilolviirad, llir lirst iMiropran town uliicli I 
 iiavi' x'.'ii. i- now ill view at the distanct' ol ^i\ mih'^. and 
 with till' 'jlass 1 ran di^tiiifily xf tlio lioiists. 'V\\v town 
 IS situat'd oil a <niall inland ol' tli'' >aiiu' naiiic, Mjjarati il 
 ironi XiiLrh'sia In" a narrow iVilh. 
 
 'Tlif i>land ul Ilo!\hrad is pi incipalK a rude mountain 
 ol naki'il rock, and app( ars haiit n and coiiilortlrss in tin 
 xlri'iiii;. < )n ihi' dfdivitv ikM to XiMjiisoa. l!i<-i*' ap- 
 ; It 'ars to !}p soiiK' arah!'' hiiid, on wliii li tlic tov, n of lloI\ - 
 mad is liuih : tliis town is iiio >talion of ilio pai l^cls :oi 
 Duiihii. tlio hi'jii iiills aroiind u hiidi aio at this mo- 
 ;i!'iit vivilil.'. \\ t ai'o iio\v pa--^iir.'- ihrmiLli a n-Ldcii o; 
 ', nt<'r. uli'Tf till- iiHi'tiiiL' ol (ho ndfv occasions a violrp,; 
 i-omnioUfiM not iniliko I li !l-( latc. * 'I'hr lido rini> hen 
 \rilli 'jnat Niolrnco, and. uilh lin' aid of a fair wind, i^ 
 ::i'[)i'!ri,.'_' us rapidlv t-ward- I ,i\ rijuio!. 
 
 'I In- siiow\ inoiintaiiis of ( 'annarv on ivro still \i^ih|i, 
 pn-'iiMij ih' ir w liili top. ii;|., tin' cjoiaK. 'i hr iiiorii:!i- i^ 
 /i.lijlit[nll\ |ll^a^alli a lltoi of f. M'rlooii ^ai! of iian^po:!s 
 .- 1 io-c undi 1 our wr.iiho;- (|nai[>;-. and l!io >ki!l',o"-, lij!i!- 
 ii'"|-'-, liiiili on a lock in the wal' i'. i- in lull \ii v\ iuiom' 
 ( ;;' !' I". 
 
 Unit' nn^t H) ./r/,,./.. ../. 1/.-\'.oa,c now wiliiii' (w 
 '>r iImi-o mil' . o! iii.' .!:oro i,f Vn-l s( a. '1 h'- i-':oni ;;s , 
 'lilo J, iiiir hill-, tia' .I'M lis ji ':.,, of w 1 lie! I. and in niae' !i 
 
 \ ! 1' '<\-. 'r.i -!;,,. I ,:-,u- .N'.W \
 
 aO A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IX 
 
 stances the tops, are well cultivated. The whole coiiutiy 
 appears enclosed by fences or hedges, and tarni-houses, 
 wind-mills, and villages are scattered here and there, but 
 there are no trees. This island is the Mona of the Ro- 
 mans the venerable retreat of the British Druids. Its cop- 
 j)er mines are said to be the most extensive in the world, 
 audi can distinctly see at the bottom of a hill, opposite to 
 oui' ship, a long row of chimnies from which the smoke of 
 the furnaces, employed in smelting the copper, is now is- 
 suing. After being so long confined to the tedious same- 
 ness of the ocean, 1 am not a little gratified with the scenery 
 which surrounds us to-day. 
 
 6 o'clock, p. M. At 1 o'clock, a pilot came on board, 
 and we have been sailing very prosperously ever since, 
 with a fair wind and a favouring current. We passed within 
 a few miles of Snowdon and Penmanmaur. The latier 
 projects, v.ith perpendicular clifl's, into the very water; 
 along its side is cut the famous road where a precipice, 
 vhose base is bufleted by the billows, makes the traveller 
 shrink from the edge, while impending fragments threaten 
 him from al)ove. Indeed the whole coast from llolyiiead 
 is very forbidding to the mnriner ; perjiencficular cliffs lace 
 almost its whole extent, and ruin awaits the ship that is 
 driven upon it. 
 
 Snowdon is lofty, and rises into a number of conical 
 p(-aks : the whole asseniblaire is veryuraud, and both the 
 tons and sides are covered with snow. 
 
 We are now sailing close uiukM- the slion-, and the de- 
 cliniii'i sun shines with full lustre on the iiills. The 
 r.iopth of the river Dee is in view, and a tk'use ck ud of 
 .smoke h;iii<is over Liverpool, and iiKuks its situiition. oth- 
 erwise invisible tu v.-s. We c:innot t'ft up to the town to
 
 ;"N..l. SNn. H'M 1 wit \M) -- " I i \Ni). '1 
 
 ,ifjiit. .Ill accuuiit umIh.' litli -, Imt ui' iii. all jn .'pai in.' io 
 iii>- iiibark tu-iiitiiTiiw. 
 
 I hid i/iKirfi /- jifisf ^,> >i'( /!(/:. /'. M. 'l'iii> iiiniiii 111 
 AC liavf (Iroppi'il oiir anchor, a\u\ our ^aiU arc all luil<i.' 
 i'or ilic lii>t liiiic -iiicc ui- jcii \c\\-\(iik. W c arc iiiil_\ 
 ten mile-. I'liJiii l.i\cr|iuol. aiul ina\ lairl\ c.iiiviilri mir p i-- 
 -auc as :iciuc\cii. miicc \vc ^irc >iiic ol lo'hi^ up wiiii tli' 
 
 IU\t thlc. 
 
 l he uiL'hl i- \rr\ pleasant, wllii iii'inn and si.u- lijln. 
 !iii| I lie u aliT is Ml -iiHHith lli.il (inr caliin is (|nii I a> a l/cd 
 riH>ni. I our In illiant li^'hts. in as inaiu liLhl-iion-i n, arc 
 Ml \ i c w . 
 
 V'/;/ .'. [) <i' I /'>(/.. t. M. '!'lic inmiiiii',' is \ii\ pha- 
 -a:ii. and uc shall uci-h anchur within ,i lew ininiiie>. 
 
 'I he lli'i di' transports aiK iiort.'d cIo.m- to lis lasi ni^hl ; 
 '.in \ aie Inll ol' s,,ldifis, u Ik, |;.i\ e Ik ? ii Miiai Icri d i n lie- 
 land. i)nt are iiow eoine o\ er to l.njhind to c.\c|ia;i::e d''i\ 
 Willi other re'jinieiii> which will lake the jdac ol these in 
 Ir. land : lor. sin.-r ;hr r- !)f llion. it is the puiicj. oi' the 'jov- 
 . 1 iniieii!, to prevent tin ir troops li om ioriuiii'; i onm ctions, 
 and sir, iir_' local attac liiii-'nts in a count r\. \'. ho^o lo\a!l\ lo 
 rdr.d.iiiil has al\\a\s \n-\\ diddoii^ J dn. in the i m i,I o; 
 aia'ihcr rill' lli"ii. a del, ciion in the arn.\ ini.dit turn iht 
 -cale ajaiMst tin _,; , laiMi nl. 
 
 I .i\ I rponl r.ow show s i;- iiisiani spm .-. and w e disc, i\ ,,. 
 <';; the sh,,!', - .coiind ns. a (ailti\a!( .1 ,oid the ki\ pi oph ,| 
 
 ( o|;utl \ . 
 
 \\ ' j 1 ore, dod up the ris cr .Ml 1 -' \ . > I, \\ iui h I d', e; j 1 
 
 stand-. Ill i: th' w 11.1 111 -in. \ii\ hjh' we\ciii' uird-!. 
 In 111:; tia -inp e.o tii to\* n, ,iiid w i i e cldiLid to di op ancji, ^; 
 
 p|st w it III 11 the r. ick . \\ e Wi re iniiiiediaieU \ isitrd d\ til' 
 eu-toin In niv,' M'li, , J ,. ;,|\,1 li\ s, iine ni' ! < h o I -. i in . a \i h- in
 
 32 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS ICS" 
 
 politely ofiered to convey the passengers up to town in liis 
 boat. This offer we gladly accepted, and a little after one 
 o'clock, P. M. we left the Ontario. As we approached 
 the town, the country back of it presented a very pleasing 
 view of green fields, wind-mills, villas and other interesting 
 objects, and the noise of commerce, 
 
 'Thundering loud with hei- ten thousaiul wheels," 
 
 indicated our approach to the busy liaunts of men. A little 
 before 2 o'clock, we leaped ashore and realized with no 
 -'mall emotion that we had arrived in England. 
 
 No. il-~'Livp:rpool. 
 
 uh'cus I'antomiinc, its absurdity Custom House douceurs 
 Atneiican Hotel An English Church Cavalry Army oi 
 Egypt Literary Institutions Official Formalities A break 
 fast Museum Asylum of the Blind A Slave ship. 
 
 Mai/ 3. With my fellow passengers I took lodgings at 
 i splendid hotel, the Liverpool Arms.*^ 
 
 ' You will remcnil)er that my hat was knocked overboard on 
 :he loth of April at sea. 1 was subjected to some embarrassmenf 
 Ml getting on shore, because the old artillery bat which I wore dur- 
 ing tiie rest of the j>assage was very shabby. In this dilemma, I 
 'lorroued a hat of a sailor, and tlic first purchase which I made in 
 h'.ngland, was of course, a hat. It cost me 5"^ ^-i) and one of 
 he same quality would have cost ^8 at lionie. 
 
 With my tVjllow pa.ssengers I dined at the hotel on roast vc;d 
 ;Hid boiled salmon, botli excellent in their kind. The cleanlines.= 
 
 the quiet the order the excellent cookery, and the prompt 
 attention of the servants (well dressed white men of very re?per<
 
 vsc.i wn. non, \M) AM) -> ' n wu. 
 
 ( IK( r- 
 
 1 1, ilir I \ ;;iii'^ V. r u I'l;! ti' the ( 'irciN. w lnn' ciiiw '^ti iau 
 'at-. K'pi' il.u.i iii'j. tiiiiil'!in'_'. and paiil.>niii;u' uiim J lii"' 
 
 'il"'!!.';!!!!!!'!!! . 
 
 I -li.ill (MTaNiniilv auciiil ill.' liif.arr^. f..r piiii'ic aiiiii^-'- 
 iiu ill-; iii!iii>-li till' ini)>t d' ri.sjvf ciit''! inn Ml natiniial tas;.'. 
 lib! iM cniiti ifipt'ilili' i^no ut' llir >tal(' (if |iiilil:.- ni'iial-;. and 
 : ill' liii'ii'in ni d./i ad ui'Ui d' tin' [inldir iniiid : lor u Ik n 
 ii'M _" 1." li> an:U-i'd. lli< y u ill di-niaiid mm'Ii tiling- a^ tli(\\ 
 .dl\ M--r!.'lit in. 
 
 'I'll'' < ^r( u> \v.i^ ri-owdc,!: wcwrrr lai--. and hi in'/ 
 |ii I I'TiK unknown, xm'iiI into tin" 'jallriA. a-i'\ii". (iliit-r 
 ;iai t .)t' til'' IhMisr u as lull. 
 
 \\ <' uiTi' suri'DUJidi'd I)} lliosc. uIionc dc|iM;iiii'ii; Miiii- 
 t ii-iMl\ iiidical'' i tn'ulial (dass nl' s,,clri\ ili, \ h. Khi'.m iL 
 wliili lli'A <\Iii',iird a vjidtarli' (if tliVduli'i \ lo \\lii( li i( 
 WMiiM II. .1 !)! I ,i-\ 1,1 liml ;i |),ir;il!id. 
 
 'Ill' li ais |M 1 li'iiii- d \\i if trills a^tiMii^liii! J. and d^'inoi;- 
 stiatid the WHiidiiiiil iMicc und ,ir(airai'\ 'rt nri^ruLii 
 nMi\ riiinit (il \\ iiM'li ill' I HI man lianii' i> cajialilr. 
 
 I lull' \\fi"' Iwii ji inloiiiiiiP'-.. 
 
 'I'iir ^uhji I I i.r till- ill si u as I iislic Idvr : oi' l!;.' sfc,,||''. 
 tilt siur_\ 111 ( )s,-,ir and Mal\iiia, rmm ( )s.;,iii. lint jiaii- 
 ruiuiiiir is altn-'iMliiT nnnatin al. In real lil'c nan im\ii' 
 <aiii\<Tsr ill I ills 'A a\-. iini'vs tiif\ an' ijinl .md d'liidi. and 
 SIM II [K i.|,|f arr (> It liiilv till' II; si ai i.i|s in | .iitnaiiiiu'. Ii 
 ina\ It" saiil iliai It atiunU iihuii im ilic ijisplas nf iina-!i iii- 
 
 aMr a|i|ii .ir.ini' :,mi.i in i!.i- rii.-l l,i v .uiraMr iia j a i' -! m .it 
 cinil..,! t.i !m- i-ai'.)..! la I ii:laii.| .ni.l I ii. ril in.; a\ iImI ::.< 
 I'l'i-t w ,1- Ml..;.' ]i'.\\iT|iill\ Ir|i li-.ii'i I'll- -I ikiii: I ..iil,a-l Id a 
 !i|i- l.i \', liirli \vr h (.1 lir.ai I. a- :\ ai.aiili cinirair.!
 
 54 A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS tS 
 
 genuity, in expressing a whole narration or drama without 
 words ; this is true ; but the drama would be far more in- 
 teresting if expressed in words, and every one who has 
 seen a pantomime, must have felt a degree of impatience, 
 and even anger, at the very incompetent, although ingen- 
 ious efforts, which a performer in pantomime makes, to 
 bring forth an idea, which a little plain talking would at 
 once tixpr':'';s, with force and beauty. 
 
 A man may learn to walk on his head, and everyone 
 sviil pronounce it svonderl'ul, while all the world will still 
 agree, that it is much better to walk on the feet, ft would 
 seem therefore that no one who has the use of his tongue 
 ^vould clioose to converse by motions, any more than a- 
 man who has feet, would prefer to walk on his head. 
 
 CUSTOM-HOUSE. 
 
 iMai/ 4. The embarrassments created by revenue lavvs^, 
 rtud the formalities which most civilized nations observe, 
 on admitting a stranger to enter their dominions, are among 
 the unpleasant things which a ti'aveller must encounter. 
 Our share of vexation has not been very great, and yet 
 some things have occurred, which one would wish to 
 avoid. 
 
 After our baggage had been landed, under the eye of a 
 ustom-house officer, and deposited in the public ware- 
 houses, it became necessary for us to reclaim it, that is to 
 ^a}', in plain English, to pay a douceur to the examining 
 'ifficer, to expedite its liberation, and not to molest us by a 
 ngoious examination of our parcels. 
 
 Being confident that 1 had no articles which could justly 
 be charged with a duty, I felt strongly disposed to resist- 
 (he oppressive demand of a rontri!nition. ibr a mere dis-
 
 K\C.I \Nt). HOLLAND AND .-lOLLiMK 
 
 (ii;u'j> . lii lailnr {m a nti;li < t ni oliic ,iliiul_>.. I'li'. b< iuc; 
 iiil<riii' ti lli.it tlif thiiiL: ua^ iii'iiNjiiuv.iiiii', uii'.i ^s I uould 
 sill nil u t>> li;i\ ' jn\ l>aL"-'i-<' <l'l;iy( J mai ul ii<i\ >, w itii f\- 
 (IV < uiuiii^taiKi- i \rvii!icir. aipi viiihanassiin'iit, w iiicli 
 I \|)ciK'ih "ti iiit:'.iiuit V ci>:clil iii'.<;,l. I .It, l-'iiL'Sli <-..ni liiiicd 
 Ik jj.iy liitMiiliii;i . I'ii(. I 1. iii:iik''l I'l liii' |M iMiii who 
 ii.ul ui\i;i ni'-t!ii- :iiloMii;i;i.i;i. all 1 .11 _ i iMuiiau ' llial 1 
 
 .-llj'|)i)>,'(l till- IMHili V luit^t 1k' ( tlrrril t(i SDlllf el tlui--0 Lil^- 
 
 l;>-iI ii'llows who act as tiil'' uaitrr^. .uul inH to llios.^ in/l- 
 /L-<'\t(! nil II abiMit till,' custiHu-ii'i. m-. Ilr ri'iilii-d; uitli >: 
 >iiiilt', tiiat tiiDse wi.TCtlie lij'-ii ;vli() tilfit/uilt li/ iv{i:\\(\\ 
 ihf iiioiny. Accunli;,.'! , , aiiioii.' all the jya^sruL;'! s tl' llit 
 Oii'iariii. a >iiiu was iiiailf i p uiiii.li. w t.- -iippo^iil, wuuid 
 kaii^i- Ju'Tii't a |)nwri- wliiiM allfjijiA lias m'jr niJiTsiait- 
 il a- hiiiii!. til licroDii- sull Mir.'li'r than ln-lort'. Nor 
 wrii- \\f (i':-:i[ij)niiiic(| ; j.nii can lianilv iiiia'_'iiit' tlii' ilVix't 
 til' ii'.ir (l.'ia-f iir. I'm- it would li" hai'^li lo call it a biilic. 
 I 111- ;// //-r-'/v .vv( J man, \\ iio wa'jiii to lia\ c iii^liccti d rvi 1} 
 l;i:ij ill |f r.Miii, stood aloof, aliftiiii:: to !) ..iiL.'aiz-il in 
 t niiVfisation witli otiii I- |,fojiI.'j wliik- a l)(>L'L;arl_v I'rllow 
 r<rii\f'd tin- iiioiH). W'c -uirciidfi-cd our keys, wlicii li>' 
 i'[M iird oiir inuiks. and uilliout laLiiiL' np a siiii.de arti( If, 
 <iid thai uc had h havrd liko 'jiiitli iii'ii. and thai r\< r\ 
 lhiii_' w i> [nTlrrtlv coiifct. l|i- tin 11 cloM'd oiir tnnils- 
 and r.tniii' d thr k'_\s. Had tiny sran lifd rlic.iuall\ . 
 llr '. \MMild ha\r toiind .1 (iiiaiitity of cosl!_\ l'ooov. whirl/, 
 ^N lih \ had Ibt hrcil < l.Ii Ii'd, It wa^ tin il dilt_\ to siizr; 
 and. iii.!<-id. tlnir ^ii^picion^ niijht will hasr litiii \t il- 
 r^l 1)\ til'' iiii'-ii:ii::inn -I'.i' ol ^'Hin' I'l tin- Iiniik-. 
 
 \ \Miii;; 1 ar.di>liaian. a 111' I 1 ^l oin- t'l tin- jiassrii:,'ia'^. 
 hiinj [III N' lit al till' r\anilnai.oa, 1 i-mon^Iralrd uith the 
 .xaniiiiiHL: oliiia-r aiain^t hi^ mi'imiil; inontA.and told
 
 .>6 -V JOURNAL OF TRAVKLS IN 
 
 him that it was a disgrace to an officer paid by the kiny. 
 The reply was : '' Sir, I have a family to support, and 
 receive but thirty pounds per annum ; this is all I have 
 10 urge.'' I have no reason to suppose that the collector 
 has any concern in this business : but it is impossible tiiat 
 the tiling: should be unknown to him, since it occurs every 
 day. and is done without even the appearance of secrecy. 
 J'ndoubtedly he winks at the practice. 
 
 But, it is certainly a disgrace to the government to 
 starve their petty officers, and then connive at their receiv- 
 ing bribes to shut their eyes on smugejled articles, to the 
 detriment of the revenue, and the conu])tioii of public 
 morals. As this part of the business of the custom-house 
 is now managed, the primary object of inspection is com- 
 pletely lost, while individuals are subjected to a vexatious 
 and oppressive interference, the only effect of wliich is to 
 j)ut money into the hands of the petty officers, who ought 
 to be severely punished fur receiving it. With skilful 
 packing, and a douceur so large as to be considered gene- 
 rous, and yet not so great as to excite violent suspicions, 
 tliere can be no doubt that goods whose value is great in 
 proportion to their bulk might be smuggled to a conside- 
 rable amount, and still pass through cwevy fonnaliti/ of in- 
 spection. 
 
 My baggage being cleared, I next presented myself to 
 the collector in person, who made out duplicate manifests 
 of my name, age, place of birth and residence, jjrofession, 
 and business in Kngland, together with a description of my 
 person, and a list of those to whom 1 am known in Liver- 
 pool. I wrote my name on both papers, and he retains 
 one, and I keep the other. With this instrument I am 
 next to wait on the Mayor, to take further steps, lo ensure.
 
 FNi.I VM>, HOLLAND AM) <<OTLAM). ., 
 
 //(( .<{iiiti/ of /lis Mdjcafi/'s person ciitd I'urcrnmi nt , ilur- 
 iii- iiiv r<-nlriict' ill Hiit'laiul. 
 
 A.MKIUfVN !I()TKL 
 
 I 'iimd ti)-tiay at a liuu--' ni cti'd ami krjtt fov ilit- ar- 
 I oiiimixlatinii ol'tlif iinillitii Ii' vl Americans ulio resort to 
 tliis |niil. 'I 111' words \Mi:iu( \N moiki. are writlni over 
 t!i<- iloor. uhicli is oriiaiiitiilcd with tlie Aiiicrican I'.airlcj 
 Old iIk' ualiop.al motto, '' |)!inilin.> unum."" 
 
 'I lux parade of Vuifrican iii^iunia is not adilres^cd. 
 wiilmut I fieri, to the national vanil\ c!" our countrvmeii. 
 Till \ erov\ d to tiiis house in 'jreat numlteis. The insirip- 
 lioii o\cr til"' iliKir arrests ever\ Vmeriean e\e; the na- 
 tional l.aL'le excites patriotic svmiiathies, and th<ise who 
 cannot constrne the motto, hopr it means ^ood liriii^. 
 \nd it nm-t he confessed that this construction, alihouirli 
 not very litiral. is, in point ol tact, suhstantially correct. 
 'I'll'' talilf is ahund.mt and chcajt, and ahhouLfh the house 
 i> not. perhaps, the most 'jentetl. th'' "-troni: ti'ni[itatioii ot 
 nalicii'.al s(,<iety. wiieu held out to heiuiis so 'jreL'arious as 
 our ciji.ntrs men. i> t'enerallv sucaasstiil ; and, at the daily 
 oi.iinarv,a kind ol' Conuressol' the American State> is 
 cwu\ rued, w here, il lln'v choose, thev nnv rail with inipu- 
 n;'v at llie country (jn whose produciiou^ ihey are t'eastiu'i. 
 nor I'Mr a nnlitai\ arr<st, heiore the next dinner.* 
 
 It ri-.,ii;i<'- IK) iiuoti-iduriilili' t-troil. to ri--i-( ihc iiujiul-' \\ liici. 
 - I im',1, tl and ,iii[i;iri'iitly so rc,i-,()Mal,lr, to a--uri,i;.', \s in ii our 
 ;- 111 .1 ! M I i ;ii laud, piiiirii' ill V %\ I'll I'lir- iiw II i ii;iiit r\ iiinii V 
 ,clf. t ( .jijij.:Uil.iii. wr t vVo, ni thi- kind. \\if]\ ,1 ( "n^i'liial ^pii il . m:iy 
 Sr \rv\ ii~i in', ,iiiil \ rrv .:;.i''Iiil !' Mi;i . ii'i !in.;, \\ Kile arilciitly 
 riu:,i.:'-i! ill '!i'' jim-im iitii)ii ,,1 kn.iw Ir '..<. .in. I it \\ onM Ik- iifili.iii- 
 tiMi .p\cri' to I'l-w^i'iil'i- ;ei mi .:- inn il in'!i;l.,tMiT in llit- -'uiid er. 
 "ViiU'iiI-, t'l hr !"'iiid ill i-iilio- I'iii ! '.".i ov.:\ c 'Uliti \ De n ,
 
 A JOUIIXAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 AN ENGLISH CHURCH. 
 
 May 5. Our host, this morning, concluded me with 
 cUi American companion to church. It was a beautiful 
 octagon, neatly fitted up, but its empty seats formed a 
 melancholy contrast to the o\erllo\ving numbers of the 
 
 circus. The preacher, Dr. M , gave a very 
 
 good discourse, and delivered it with much solemnity ; 
 but it dwelt entirely on morality and the decencies of lil'c, 
 and contained almost a declaration in so many words that 
 the sum of religion consists in the exercise of humanity 
 and of the social virtues. 
 
 Cicero or Socrates would hardly have said less, and 
 except tlie exordium and peroration, the sermon might 
 have heen embodied with their writings, witliout exciting 
 a suspicion that its author had drawn wisdom from any 
 other than Greek and Roman fountains. 
 
 ENGLrSH CAVALRY. 
 
 The French horn and other martial Instruments are 
 now soimding before the door of the hotel and make one's 
 blood move witli a quicker pace through hi.s veins. I 
 
 bill tlicre can be no doubt, tliat if a traveller would study the elia- 
 racl.r of tlie j/oopie among whom he is, he ilioiikl iminei'se him- 
 self completely, and in getieral i.rclusireli/. iu their society. He 
 will thu.s see thein constantly; in new and interesting relations; 
 }ie will not feed his own prejudice--, and (onfinii hi? own errors, 
 by a constant at)d invidious conipari<;'n. -if^tained by conversation 
 with his own countrymen, and what is of no small importance, ho 
 will be in far lo-s danger of being allured into haunts, from which 
 he can scarcely e-cape with innocence. Certain it is, that some 
 persons reiurn from fort^ign countries, with les? kno^vledge of all 
 \vhich it is desirable to know concerning them, tlian is possessei! 
 by many in'i lliivnt people at hosne,
 
 ^s<l wr), iioi.i.VM) \M> -(ufi.wi). 
 
 ua> uiitiii'j III iii\ (li.iiiibor, wliiii a lull liu-t nf w ai Iiki' 
 iiiii-i lilt u nil' ii ic>i>tiliK til till' (ItM)i . u li. ii 1 iii|i,\ I il .1 
 llljll lit t'lff <'l |p|ra>lllf, Inuil till' Mllitrd t llul Is (i| a lai _'! 
 haini iiiniiiiti'd dii Imisf lia<k. Kdiicalni a> I had In in, 
 111 a jifactliil (uuiitrx . and in a jk aci inl jn i iud. Mm \\ ill 
 iiiil wondir that mh'Ii a surll ol lianiinm. |iiiiii ipallv 
 iiniii a '.nal imhiiIxt I'l di'i'|i imii'd wind iiisn inii(iii<, 
 ^hiuild alii ri jiif HI a \ir\ iiilfi< slin'j maiiinr. not iin!\ as 
 nin^ic. tiiit ii\ >.iiininiiniii'_r up the awliil asMirialiuiiN ,)\ 
 l-al Ual. I cirlaillK l|r\ii- [ill ail ilirct iil' tll<' kind 
 uliirli \\as -,i ii\ I'lw lii'liiiiiiL:. 'I'liiK. niii' nalurally 
 va\- 111 iiiiii-rll llniN, tlii\ aiiiiiMli' tin' liravi- and iiiiji>-l 
 dii' liiiiid. Ill ill"' s iiiL^uiiiaiA <li:ir'ji' : lh;i> llit\ drnwii 
 ill-' _! iMiis uf till' iKiiiL.'. and aiia\ llic fn'ld ul' sl.iii:_dit<r. 
 ',v nil rill iiiiivian'-f> III' pipiiip and laM-in itimi. 
 
 Till' haiid III |iii'L'> t'l a (Hips III liLrlit liiii->i' v.iiirii i^ 
 ii\ii\\id I \. i\ i|a\ ill Irniil 111' litis liii isi'. win If ('.iliiinj 
 1 .11, nil \ . till ir rMiiun.iM Iit. n 'si, Irs. ! i.r ihi- MM^nn t\\ ' 
 
 I rntil'.i U .111' T'liis iiilU w.dkllPJ llrliiic l!|'- d'HU'. and til'' 
 
 11 11 an- air CI iiw did \\ idi nnlil.ii \ nun. \ n'l will W'\ siis- 
 
 fii-rt nil- 111 a parad''i'l iinntiiMi- m liii- iiinaiks inadr 
 
 Mp'Mi till i; niii~!''. will II I intiirin \iin lliat tliis imps, wiiii 
 
 tin ii liilii!.'!, Ui|i api:l nl till' 111 a\ 1- ,iini\ ><i I.L'vp'. 
 
 \'.liiill r .iMjiHird i ' ' a l.lp i ' ! "s lin-i-iid i lU'i lU >hli :< . and 
 
 .iiim:--'! liir w II ill till' I.a-I. Till' siiiNiviri.' I'Kn'ii-. 
 
 ': li' ai"i,ili|i' milk Hi di-;ini lii'ii. wi-.n ,i i/i Ihn- i ih/nni 
 
 .iiiii. 11 'in- is'.. I'.Hii !i II i\\ s. II in -I 111 I 111 :ii I" 'k L.p ilnir 
 
 ; ; '.1 '. i|, 1 .'jx |,i. ,:in| |.-\\ . \ (I \ 'i w i .-in.' i n I " sj,, \\ 
 
 :i\iiial 1:.' ' : li a.id Mill'iii',', iIp' I "_v w as j ,i ,i i Iiasii i . 
 
 W iia\ 1' I'll'' dill' 11 III I'l'' In II 1-1 V. I:.i |m I .1 |. 'J in Iia 
 
 ' iiMp (' 11. !iMi ! '^ \\ r, ^ ,1 Till !v siili-i a ,iiiv \u' 'i 1 ii' ! ^> 1 
 
 'm !\ liui,.'. hM'. f.iii !i.i 1,1- liiii;iii:.'. li':- I"-- \\-ii! ' :-
 
 60 A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS IN 
 
 be perceived. The I^nglish light horse, judging from 
 this specimen, must be admirably calculated for celerity 
 of movement. The horses have slender limbs, with great 
 muscular activity, and are very quick and high spirited ; 
 their colour is a light bay. The men are also rath- 
 er slender, and very active, and most of them young. > 
 Their dress is blue, exactly fitted to the body and limbs ; 
 it is composed of tight pantaloons, and a close buttoned 
 short jacket, reaching only to the hips, and without the 
 smallest portion of a skirt, or any ajjpendage whatever, 
 except several rows of white buttons, interlaced with 
 white cord, crossing the breast in a fanciful manner. 
 They have high helmets, and their broad swords, which 
 are sheathed in bright steel scabbards, are of such enor- 
 mous length, that they drag behind ihem on the pave- 
 ment as they walk, unless they carry them in their hands, 
 which they often do.* Besides the light horse, there is 
 in Liverpool at pjresent, a regiment or two of heavy cav- 
 alry. If the Ibrmer are eminently fitted for quickness of 
 movement, these are equally adapted, by their weiglit 
 and firmness, to make a tremendous charge. The horses 
 arc fill very large and heavy, and by no means so quick 
 hitlieir movements as the others; their colour is black. 
 
 '" July 1818. I am not quite certain whether it was at Liver- 
 pool or elsewhere tliat I saw cavalry, with steel hiiiniets ami steel 
 chains, fallins; from the helmet down the shouKlers, with steel 
 chains passing down the whole length of the thigh and leg on the 
 outer seam of the jiantaloons, and attached to a i)rojecting edge 
 of cloth with steel chains fastening tiie steel scabbanl to the lio- 
 dy, and with a kind of h(i\ of slcel smrouiidiisg (he hilt of the 
 sword and covei'iiig the haiul ; (he ohjecl of all the^e defences 
 being o'niouvly to render liarmlcbS the ;trokc of an er,emy'-'- 
 ^;^^'or^.f.
 
 rM.I.VN'.). 1101.I. WD \\[) 'fOlI \\r>. I ' 
 
 Th-' nitii iiif aNi) laiL'f iiiiil I'liUN . ;tiiil iii;m\ iiMiinii louL 
 likr \ III i.iu^. Till ir (l||^^ is iKiiIv uiiili'. \\;;':i -Iimi; 
 (i,it>. l inir iiiiiiom i^ lif:iv\. iiml In ni,).>s tl..^ licvi' 
 sv^ iii.i ;iiiil pi^Iol^. I in li ^mImut rarii''s a f,ii .iiiiii''. 'i in' 
 iiiii/./!f Is li\'<i ill ,1 >!;', itii ill tlif >i(!.' Ill til'' Iii'Ktii^. a.;d 
 tli> hiri . ii |M-v( s ii\ i-r till' Imr-'i iiiaii's ilii.'li. 
 
 1 -ii; [M.sc ;||.' |iri;ni|'i! iivr nl tliis ui ijmiii. is In nia- 
 li ill.' -i.!i!iiT to art nil liiiit, wiii'ii his Ihifx' has luni n'i^- 
 
 '. .1. '! kiih A III hauir. 
 
 ill r.i; WW \\-'\ i ; ; \\n\-. 
 
 Till' ji'ilil" la^^ 111' Ml-. M.(iii\. III.' \iir rii-au (\uimi1. 
 a. Ml It 1,1 :is ::ici s. in \\.,- \ I ,11-. \ : ' a ainl I ,\ i i i i -i. t\\ i 
 'itiii!\- ia^i iiiil!' 'ii~ 111 \ii\ ii'ia-iit ur; 111 : ai .', amalhr 
 
 lai'iii'ii ii;l 1 1 iarril a^ at a i.aiil. rail' d ihr > m.:\, 
 \^ ': .-a plan I- 1 \ii > liiiiN -ia;,iar r . llnl .a i la' i llai tw i>. 
 It'll! I- iii\ ~l i_\ ill LiMljMi il. I laiM' tlir i:ia'll\ dI \ i^- 
 
 lif-i lii^'il aiini; -. i!!i !ri- (1 i lain 'v I 1 \ iia 'aiili!'' n- 
 'i 'i li' '... 
 
 Ill a 1 ii\ -II < 'iiiii;:' i ; ;] .'^ la\i . j)".l. lia -' r laMi-li- 
 :i' lit- la i-t 111- i-iiii-i'!i ii '1 a- iii.iil. laai aalilr in lia' in- 
 ill ji nil aai! la ai- la ili'- iia!i\ iiia.ii-, wimliiM Ci-'-ai'-il 
 .:. I iiaai'i aii-1 <\ lia'iil. 
 
 la 'lia lii'Mi h.i . aai I iijaail HiiiaiuM- nl' lirr .^i,aii\ 
 
 :i,aiiiiiij a liliia:\ i>\ \, nanus liti r,i! an- ..mi -i ii arr. ainl 
 ! .1 ji- a. .la .' 1 . . ail. will 1 1' .lil t ;, I a \\ -|. i|.v 1 ^ a-al !::ri a- 
 
 , ,. > a naU nl II' .;i . ail- |.| HI il il,ili\ ii|iiiii 1:1' t 'iiii--. Inr 
 ila- Inr |Hia<al ni siiii-n ila-r-, ami nl -.i' li ii a mis ;is 
 ill. \ iaiii.'ia.-i'. 
 
 'I'll a s; I .111,1 1. lii'--i jilaai's .li i- hajhU ihlrK -lii'-j . ,,s :>{- 
 I'lriliuii ,il a -j! Mai', a \iru nl lii.' ninsl iiiijinii iiil mi-ai- 
 .'i.i i-s nt' till- ''n'la'rx . .'lai Inth'- (ii:-/. a- lh'-\ aai' i!;.I 
 V a.. 1. '
 
 0^ A JCit'RXAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 less useful and agreeable; for, the mere man of biisiiies.-. 
 finds here the best means of information, and the man of 
 literature can retire in quiet to the library, where the li- 
 brarian attends to hand down any volume that is wanted. 
 
 Between institutions so similar, it is very natural and 
 doubtless it is best, that there should be a spirit of rivalry. 
 I know not how much is to be imputed to tins, but I 
 heard it contended that the library of the Athe\uenm is 
 much superior to those of the otiier two. This appears 
 not impro!)a!)le, for the library of the Athenceum was se- 
 lected i\v Mr. Roscoe and Dr. Currie. 
 
 Such institutions as thes'' would be highly useful in A- 
 mevica, and most of our large commercial towns are rich 
 enough to found and sustain them.* Independently of the 
 rational amusement which they aflord, they give a useful 
 direction to the public taste, and allure it fro;n objects 
 which are either frivolous or noxious. 
 
 OFFICIAL FORMALITIES. 
 
 Mai/ 6. With an American, a fellov/ passenger, who, 
 like mvseif, wished to go throucrh every formality retjuir- 
 ed by the law"s of the country, that we might be fully en- 
 titled to its jtrotection, wdiile we did not wish to shun any 
 reasonable resjionsibility for the correctness of our con- 
 duct, 1 waited on the Mayor of the city, whose duty it 
 was to countersign the collector's certificate, that we 
 micht have permission to go up to the alien oilice at i.on- 
 
 ' Boston, ill the establislinictit of an A!!:('ii;iMiiii upon tlic plan 
 of that iit Liverpool, has !iad the honor of creating the fir.-l iiistiln- 
 tioJiofthis kind in Atnorica, and from the ar(]nisili<)ns ah-eady 
 made, as well as from the well-known intelligence and lil)erali(y 
 of (he |)eople of Boston, there is reason to cipect tiiat it w ill dr> 
 Tniicli credit to this country. (1809.)
 
 I M.I \M>, HULL \M) AM) M O I ,. \ V,.. vi." 
 
 I. HI. It v,cni-. ilial uc iM^iil to ii,i\' l 'I''' m-! in iiic 
 '."'an (Ilk. \\!m woiilil li.i.i' rii,|nr>".l d.ii" < rriiiicalf.-. a? 
 a pii liiiii.i.ii \ vliji ;) iihtai.iinir tlw ^aart;..n nT i!ir cini I 
 !iia.;i>tr,ai' til tlir ciu . Ilut.i'l t'l.iN firiinn^Iaacf we Ufix' 
 iuiniraiit. a> f\<T\ man. ii;i \i\^ !ii>t airi'.al in a loii-'iLru 
 t'wanli's. luii^t iii'cc.saiiK \\ mi iiiaiiv \vv\ cuainiu:, 
 linii'j>. ' >iM' >'rriir was (itaiiiU xriii^il. aa.i i!> aiaail'',! 
 f'\<v\ iiiiliil'j'''U<'t/ ami a'ni wIik'Ii (,i!i''ial inluiinali'Mi cn ;i(l 
 li,i\ < -u (M~i!', ailoi'ili'tl. l.ci \v< liii t a ii( I'liiii.i, M> riuiv- 
 an i i n;ii I ill.;-, th It \\cs1imiiII I.:i\f ifi/uird ud \i!',- la- 
 \ o:i! i'll- i:i"a i;l llii' '."iMd iiiaiiiii-i- u\ i .i.'jl^ii i:ia,'i--iiali'^ , 
 had lint (Mir niiiii'i'^>ions l)c< 11 miita di<.lcl\ ciiiiiilriMil; u 
 h\ !;ii' mi('()niia"M iinl'tcu'' > .! tii Pus., ( In 1^ .Mi. Si dli- 
 aiii.t'i w ini-r (iliirc \s>- iMW i-i-,irlrd iii.i^r ilu' aM-|iii-f< 
 (il Mr. ^I,liil', llic \iiici ic.ni ("ii^iil. Iv. Ma'iiA i- ila 
 aili'(C ai'.d ii-'lal Iiiciid dl \ iii'i icaiL-. w'.io \i-ii !.i\fi- 
 ]iiH 1. iiid li.' diH > !i^ Ki'icli Imiioi. Ii\" hi- '.: (id M-ii-c, iii- 
 I' I! J I !!(( am! pi 111 III \ , \>, !,'. :' the ^i 111 pile it \ an i iiii!(hi' --. 
 el a;> III iT'iTs ici ! ; h 11 ,;; ;llv acccj >I,,M.- Ii. I'lc !':!_'- 
 h-'i. .!> Ill ill - . \: a (^ 'iii;;r\ iii' a. 
 
 Mr. Malliaia iarmiii' i ii-~ I'l't \y>- iiai-l h in !,i mica 
 wii'iia r lai II" II di\s Irma i!v d !! nl 'li-anl lh''''!r.- 
 iir - I'lidi 1 - : lent. awA thi'ii!nM- .id\:-i'd i;- I.i hast i' 
 (hnii . \\i!'' 1 \\'- >'h'ul I !> .Ill I'lC pdiiit (i| h a\ iir_' l.i\(r- 
 pii.ih \> \\i' la'cii'li- I I ) ii'iinin ^. \ci.i! (!a\>. am! i.. 
 ii:i\(l -hiwlv t'l I ,iiii.iiiii. \\i- L:'.".'i''. I'liaij.iii i wiiii i!:!- 
 a.Ki.-.. 
 
 \N I N<.l,l--il i;i;i. \i\. V -1 
 
 ^lu!/ 7.^-1 (ii\i' liii'ii pri--iiil till- iiiianai.' al .ni lai, 
 !i->li 'i.' dsta-t. The li.lv (it ihi- IniiiM. h ;.i l.cc i -.v . , :d 
 \jar> 111 Vni'.'ii:!. an. I ^lill rtlaiiud vn imicli |iaiii.i!ii\
 
 64 A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS W 
 
 for the country, that my reception was such as to makt 
 me feel that I was at home in England. 
 
 JMrs. pleasantly remarked that I had not beeu 
 
 used to such frugal breakfasts in America, and indeed it 
 must be confessed, that to a northern American, wlio is 
 accustomed to see aniraal food on the table in the morn- 
 ing, an En.glish breakfast presents no very promising 
 prospect. It usually consists of tea and a little bread and 
 butter. A boiled egg is sometimes added after morning 
 exercise, aiul, very rarely, a thin slice of ham. If an 
 American is surprised at the frugality of an Enghsii break- 
 fast, an Englishman is astonished at seeing beefsteaks, or 
 fish, and perliaps buttled 'ader on an American table nP 
 !lie same meal." 
 
 MI, 3 El" M 
 
 Liverpool has a small museum, which 1 visited this 
 !norning. it is not extensive, but i,i well worth seeing, es- 
 pecially on account of n collection of ancient armour, 
 such as was worn from the tiiiie of the con(|ueror down 
 to the period cf E!iz;!!>eth. This is a remnant of an age, 
 which though barf'j'.rous, :ind, on tiu' whole, wretched, is 
 connected with so inuch heroic grandeur, that every au- 
 fhentic vestige of it nui-t excite a strong interest, espe- 
 'ially in one who've ronritry has never been the theatre of 
 a siniiuir state of things. The knights, when equipped 
 for battle, were so cojnp!<'te!y incased in iron, that it is 
 not easy to conceive how they conld move joint or limb, 
 or even susi.iin the enormous wi'iglit of their arnioiu', nor 
 
 F ;ini seiisii/I,", 'However, ihat tlic-e iianits ai'c wciirini;- aw n y in 
 fiur larger towns and it i- '.iccomiuj,' inijioH'c to (^al iiiiich aiiiiiial 
 food in thi^ iri'.iniit;;,' ; bin they .v:<: ;;ti!l uuiuiiiaircd in Uie country.
 
 KN .i AVn. lli">l.I. WD WD Stori. WD. 
 
 run one l)' MirjuiNt'il tli.'it ixn ovcrthiou \\;is so iniicli 
 lilt aiird, viiui' it must liiivf Ix'fii ;m Hrdn'UiN ta->k to rise 
 iiinlir till' ri'.:i(lin ^< ol such a priNoii. Hut ilicsp w ( n 
 null w lies.' liiiil)s li.iii iiDi luni fiUTV.itt'il 1)\ liixnrv : ami 
 till' <'l''j:aiU (!i'iiiration> ainl t'r!cmiiial<' solliirss ol maii\ 
 iiio'liTH ^llllil.s winil.l ha\' hcra tlu'ir irst ami >-inni. 
 'I Ih'H' w a^ (Mir >iii'ju! ir suit of aiiin'iii-: or, ju'iliap^. i; 
 >lioiii.l latlirr lir rallcil a ruhi'. Inr it was siirji in fu I. Iw ;n<^' 
 a 11 mi I ill ti' III 1 w ni L III Miial! I'liaiiiv. su linlxr,! in rvi i \ ,li- 
 M'' la a, ilial it l.aini'il an iimi \r-Iiiir. wltirli mi::lit In' iiiit 
 "11 and in idf to. cm Idm' tin' [n i^oii comimtilv . wliilr it 
 uiiald lia\i' tliP liinl.> tin' lih' i-t\ ot" lii-r imition. an i 'If- 
 iViid tlifiii Inmi llif ( !!( <-t ni (aitliii'.'' iii^tiuni' III >, a'tlaaijli 
 nil! Ii mil luiiiijvi.ins. 
 
 \ tiiH' [ia!Miaiiia ol' Ka!iis;ati" with tlir rml.ai kaiii-ii >.; 
 iroii];-. <.M\c nil' a \f\\ miiiuto ul plfa^aat i. atn taiuiiii'iit. 
 "11 i!i\ \\ a\ to \ ;-it 
 
 I HI. \-^^ I.I M tn liir. i;i.!Mi 
 
 III tlll^ iii>iiiiiti.iii llir iijiaiidliU Miiiii arr ! laav' d, pro- 
 ti'i III! and iiinH'ii ti'd in ^nrli ari^ a^ tin \ aic ca aiilr n: 
 ji ari;lii_'. iiir n!i;.ct i> lu aliiird tlnaii ihr iia aiis ol' vnh- 
 Si-Jcm r l'\ [)ri--"na! imiii^tiA , and ol ani'i-i im-i.t ni- 'cr t'.r 
 i.hiiiai 111 [II 1 j.i IimI lit; kill '^s. 'Idirari-. iiitif jirai lire im" 
 
 \\in<ll I -aw till III i'll_ai_'i d. wnt'ul ii nn -r .;i( h :is irijiiij-.' 
 
 ?i," ni'iiiinmon :'iaaiiar\, and uiinvr i !|n i.ai a;- ran In' 
 .-.I, liic:' w i)v im- l"iirli : mh ii a- kuiuiM.'. w i a\ im". and 
 wiia; I'L' llniMM, ai;'."it ' tlif \Mi'iiin. aao iii.ika:'' da-ki-ts 
 ,;ii.i ,-; .ia'iiiij tlii ail a. 'i in ir ja i 'diiitinns \t i ic nimdi 
 i( li. 1 ;ii ii; .' 1. \\"ald anajiai i! [iii--ililc i;i> \ -nniiid lie. 
 \ -.Miai I'.a- prii\r llial llii' io-- "! "nc -i n c.ni-iv
 
 06 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 SO active a cultivation of the rest, that they become more- 
 pe -lect than before. How else can we account for thf* 
 a( lueness of hearing which enabled a particular blind man. 
 by means of the echo produced by his whistling, to decide 
 wlien he was approaching any object of some magnitude: 
 or, for the delicacy of touch which led the blind Mr. Jay* 
 to discover, by feeling, the place where the two pieces of aii 
 ancient mahogany table were joined, which multitudes for 
 a succession of years, although in possession of all their 
 senses, had sought in vain to detect. 
 
 la the institution of which I am speaking, those who 
 h'dve a taste for it, learn music both instrumental and vocal, 
 that they may be able to obtain their bread by performing 
 in churches. 
 
 "When I entered, two b'ind boys were playing on the or- 
 gan and piano, and at my request, a choir of both sexes 
 performed a piece the dying Christian's address to his 
 sou.l, which they sung to the organ. This production, in 
 itself ver\ solemn and interesting, was rendered doubly SO;^ 
 by the associated effect produced l)y the sightless choir 
 >vho performed it, with much apparent feeling. Printed 
 papers were distributed about tlie rooms, containing reli- 
 gious songs apj)ropriate to the situation of the blind, and 
 holding foith to tliem such consolations as must be pecu- 
 liarlv dear to those for whom the sun rises in vain. There 
 >vas, however, in most of them, an air of cheertulncssj 
 which served to enliven a scene otherwise very gloomy. 
 Tlie charity urn at the door contained this simple inscrip- 
 
 'Brotliri-of Tohn Jay E'-q. Uiip (;o\e iioi- i.f New-York, arc? 
 frivov txti'aordinui". 'c Kna!i'.n<} in ih'-var \~9t-
 
 iM.i wo, iK'1.1 wn \M( ~(c,ii.\'wi. <>; 
 
 iioii, \sliirli iiiiist product-' a ,>tMin'.'i'r fllrct <h\ t sri\ iniiir' 
 than [li<.' iii<,'>t l.ilHunod aildiivsto llir li :lin.:> : 
 
 ' (trlrnMiln r \\\r [,(.,! I.liii.l ' 
 
 I li' M' air llif iiivtiliiticiii- uliicli dn liounur [< iiiuikiiu:. 
 and ^licw till.' acli\c t tl'nai V ul'( liri>tiau Iu'ihn okiicc. 
 
 \ M.W i; >HII' 
 
 I'lM- hiiii i w liii had liriMitdit inr til lliis iiiiori'sliii'j: j)hua . 
 '\ lilt u iih ni'' til a hii'jf < miifa >hi|). a thiiiL:' uhirh 1 had 
 al\\.i\s \\i-.h'd til Mc\ with a ciuin^ilv likr that uhicdi 
 wuidd haM hd iiif tn tlir l'>a>tili'. We divriaiilcd iiitu 
 l\i<- hold. A\[i\ ( \,uiiiiiid the ci lU \slicri' human hi'inL'> aif 
 ciiuiiipd iiadi T cirriiiiiNtaMrf^ whirh cijii.dK d'lN'Mi^t d'-i-cii- 
 rv .iiid NhiH'k hiMiiaiiii_\ . I!at I ui!l U'lt cnhtr,:'' nn ,i >nh- 
 i'"t uh'nh. ihiiMidi tiin-. i> awi'ulU invi'Ucd in 'jaih and 
 inliin\. ''/// nnnUiA. ^nimliK )rahin--i'I li> i -u n lilni- 
 tit-, -I inds di^jrari'd in ihi' f\i - ul mankind, an i ciai- 
 i!iiii!ii-d ,ii ihi' liai ill 1 |.a\ I'll, l.if iicini_' at I'lM'i' 111 li\i' in 
 I'lirsinu nil thi^ innn-tiiiu^ tiali'u . and |iriim|it tu iiaaivc 
 (\ri"\ 'Ml '.:ii 111 im|iiii It d \ Iriraii-.' I liid iml riuii'- In I ai.- 
 laiid III > I- ( iiiini a ^hi jl^ he '1 a n^f thia < uair liMiif in \niiT- 
 ii ,1. hat an idiiil liad m-v la I lin i\\ n mii' in iii\ ua\ hiMiUf. 
 I .i\ ii|iuiil i> ^A ( y/. r( /// (A ' y; in thi' 'Jiiih "I I iir -lax r li ai I.'. 
 It i- ii'u\ jj'ii an d w ,i!i nit I If I :!_^a ii<>> than <\ la . aaid lllui- 
 t 1 1 ; i i ^ air, a I I i a > n 1 1 1 1 n i n t , r 1 1 it i 1 1 'i mi I h t \s < -a h i i w i i a 1 1 
 ha^ 111 11) L^aai'' I lis l!ii' -liiji''^. tin' 'jrii;ai-.. 'ii'- ti-,iis. .iiid 
 th. h'li.Hl ,a \ni.i!iv. 
 
 'I hi ]< \\\\\ hi' a d;i\ \\ia"i ih' >( tliin.^ --had h-- U''h\ in 
 111 a\ I'll '. 
 
 Isl'l '1 [:[ 1 i,,r. ,a . ;,| 1,\ ,,,,,. |.,\v-. !,iu ;!;;;,. i- . -. n U 
 ' ';, \ i; til" I'lMi-iirr i till HI ,1 lie a la; >\- ':v\ <'if
 
 GS- A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS l.\ 
 
 No. III. LIVERPOOL. 
 
 ::^ketcli of the town tlie Exchange Streets Public buildings 
 Population Pursuits American trade Difficulties of the 
 port Guard ship Press gangs Impressment grossly inconsis- 
 tent with English liberty Docks Mode of admitting ships 
 Anecdote Dry docks Hackney coaches Anecdote Genera! 
 appearance of the people. 
 
 SKETCH OF LIVERPOOL. 
 
 May 8. Mrs. , at whose liouse I liave met a 
 
 degree of frankness and hospitality, which, if a fair sam- 
 ple of English domestic maimers^ does much credit to the 
 country, informs nie that the re is an interestiiig circle of 
 literary peo])le Jiere ; but, to a stranger, Liverpool ap- 
 pears almost exclusively a commercial town. Under the 
 guidance oi Mr. Wells, an Knuhsh gentleman who had 
 visited America, I have been to the Exchange, the great 
 scene of the commercial transactions of the second tra- 
 ding town in the r'ritish dominions. The Exchange 
 stands at the head of the handsomest street in Liverpool, 
 and hfis jtronuf claims to be considered an clegaiU build- 
 ing. It is. however, nnicli to.) small for tiie commerce of 
 the place, and for this reason they are now making an ex- 
 tensive addition to it. We ascended to the top of the 
 building, \xhere we Ii.id a good virw of the town. 
 
 it extends between two and three miles along the eastern 
 bank of the INIerscy. The coimtry rises as it recedes 
 from tiie river, so that a part of the town is built on the 
 <ieciivity of the hill, '('lie streets contiguous to the river, 
 which are principally on level ground, are narrow and 
 di-ty ; they ;ire crowded with carts and {)eo[)le, and in
 
 FNi.I.Wl). Hi)|.l,\M) \M) M-(iT!.\NiJ. 
 
 '"J 
 
 'H)lii<' til tli'iii ilic \\;ut-lii)tisf^ .lie ijiiiiiil iiji (ii ;i \<iy 
 
 '.Ml 1 1 llrl-ht. 'I ilf Ntrt'i Is till tllc vlopt' of 1 1 If liiil ,in >ul- 
 
 tit iriiiK wiclc clean, aiiil liaiKisuinc, hul tlif 1h>iin. >., a|. 
 liH'M'jh Mili^taiitial ,uul hiu'lils nmiloitahli-, arc l'<ihi all v 
 iii''lr'i lilt ill their fxtnior a|)|)r,iraiu't'. 'I'ln'\ are coii- 
 -nuitcii witii liiicks ol a ilii>kv vt'llnw (-(ilour. nliscm ctl 
 h\ till' ilii-t uinl .v.iiiikr DiCoal : the hrifkN ai<' licit pMli-li- 
 '<!, iiiit lia\r a ilfjii'f ol' nui'jlinrNN. u hicli makt- llic tnu ii 
 rij ir 'i'ai<'\uiat lu.lc imi u t- 1 dk in \ ,iiii Inr (In- iii, hly 
 Iiai-'ii li -li: la<-' v. liii li i^ ju I'^fiUiii 1)\ tin' liiu^i Iki'i-m'- "I 
 ^< \\-\ 'U k. PI ill id Ijiliia. and I'>n>Ii)ii. tn u liirli idu ii- I .iv- 
 .-rpiw,! 1> iiil.iioriii till' liiaiil\ <'( il- pi i\.itr liiiiliii iLl'^. 
 
 I'm pii'ilic hiillirai-j^ are, li.)\\c\ it, wiih tew i'M i pii'ius, 
 rlr'jaat. '1 h-\ an- ciin^truilcil nl la-wii --ami ^tniu , lar- 
 ni-iii'l li\ a ijaarrs iiniii''ilialil\ (ii!iti'jnciii> i<i ilir tuuii. 
 
 I'li-rr are ^e\t'ral lianiNnme eliiirelieN, voiiie til \vliiili 
 iia\e l.'i'i\ v|iires III stmie, aiiil there i^ a iiiaLarilieeiii mie, 
 Willi 1 \.i-t .iuine, iiiii.!' lle,| ami iiaiiieil alter M. I'aiir> at 
 
 I..M,.'..|I. 
 
 1 ,1\ irpii'ij i-, ^aiil III ciiinaiii almul ei'jlit\ thdii^aii'l iil- 
 haiill in!^.* wllti aie alllll)^I e\clM^i\ el y eliij'l'iyd ill e, nu- 
 ll ei ce. and III' \ ai liia> llll^llle^^| > i:nim dial'Kd aiiH i le ' 
 \siili ii ; liir. aliiniujli ihe tnwii i> im! de>tiliile nl niaai:- 
 
 iai lai ' ^^. -t ii! ill i-M ai ill li , which are ^c.id m \ im i a a 
 
 mid' 1 die 'jc ii< 1 il ii.caic cii 1 .1\ I I p'Mil u ai -. ai e In nil iit to 
 till- jcci I h 'iiii Malldi ; !:iii . ml diic-i iiuca mi eo a ith s. 
 
 < >.; lie liil! h II k Hi ill. l.i\ui all a iiimili' i c.; Iieaiililnl 
 vlti.aH.mv. Tia- c' i,. icali"' hiL''ii^l Jiait ci; the hill,,i 
 place eai.d tia Ni.eim, vv ia l ' l!;'ii i- ,i paMir L^aideii, 
 VI. all sea III iir I 111 _ I a\ I 1 wall--, a i;. i ia li -ml cil lii .jai cl. a i , 
 
 1-!.1
 
 7'0 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN j 
 
 a wide gravelled area, used as a promenade, which coni- 
 mands a fine view of th(> city, the river, the opposite coun- 
 t}' ol' Cheshire, and the distant mountains of Wales. The 
 city is surrounded by lofty wind-mills, which are among 
 the first objects that strike a stranger coming in trom sea.j 
 On the hills are a multitude of signal poles ; each prin-- 
 cipal merchant has one, by which a ship's name is announc- 
 ed some hours before she arrives in the river. There is a 
 very great number of vessels, and among these the Ameri- 
 can flag is very freqiien'.. The American trade to this 
 port is probably greater than to all the other ports of 
 Britain : it has be( ome l!!u:h]y important to the merchants 
 of Liverpool, and oi'tliisthe^ are sufiit iently aware. 
 
 The port is diilicnlt of access. The titles ri^e from 12 
 to 30 fe<'t, and, at h w water, a great part of the road is 
 bare. The currems are therefore ver\ rapid, and it is on- 
 ly at rising water thai ships C9n get in ', there are, besides, 
 so many shoals and sand banks, that, even then, it req'iires 
 all llie skill of the ]>ilots to brine a vessel up to the town. 
 
 When a sliip comes round llo]\ head, and a gale imme- 
 dratciy succeeds, blowing in towards the sliore, she is in 
 damjer of liein^r lost. These circumstances form the prin- 
 cipal defenceof the town against an attack by sea. and are 
 much more important to its security, than a Ijatury of 
 heavv cannon at the lower part of the town, and a large 
 Guard ship which is moored in the ciiannel. Ahhough 
 stationed there ostensibly for the defence of the town, the 
 most interesting object of the government is to afford a 
 flf;ating prison for the reception of impressed setmien. 
 Tliere are press c;anifs now aljout laverpool, and impress^ 
 nieuls daily happen. J saw a sailor firagged olf a i'cw 
 neninLis since : he \\as walking witli one who appeared t(?
 
 f..Nt.tAM>, Mi.l.!.AM ANl> T(VrL\M>. 
 
 U 
 
 i;o a \M)m,in <if the town, aii<l In; ol CDur^c u:i> ((iiisiilrri li 
 ;iN a niDjjt r (il)|irt ol iiii|irf-.Miii'iit : loi' il i> tlic uiiiloiiii 
 jii.n Itii oltlir |)i>s LMii::> tn Iikf all ulioin tli'-s linl in 
 Mirli >oi i.t\. :iiiii all lio ail' i'iiL'aL'<'il in nijlit hiaw 1- ami 
 arii'.iLtn rcvtls, not that the |irt>> L'^mu^ lia\r any pnulinr 
 snlii ituilr U'Y the prcsfrvatinn <>( i;i/iifl inordh. \i\\\ liri-anM- 
 .-ii<!i lliiiiL:> atl'iMi ^onitnsiiat nl' a pif^trM r,.|- a |ir;r-lirr 
 \\lil<'!i \i>i!,it.'s (N]iiallv thr law^ nt natural lilnits. ,iuil tlir 
 pi inrijilfv 111' l.ii'jli^h iVi't'.liMii. 1 'jrani it i> iii-.-. v,;i- 
 i\. Ii!!t II i> ^tiU ;r.)-vl\ iiii'ii-l. an. I \n-|.' < i .!:-i^;rtii\ yc- 
 Lai lir.l w 1 1 I'll ii iiiiri irii^ \\\\\i Mili' Hial pi 'n \ . tin I' I'.l'-Ii 
 (i)i;;ls ..fil-lirr WnilM 'la'll prmilpl aii.l r,,li iiilic--. Nil 
 iImi,',! I'M r\ I'liuiiliA l)a^ a !a'l li.'lu In tin' -i i\ic.> nf !'< 
 (!''/.' '1^. Iiiit this ri' 111 -lii'ilil hf rnrnrri'il arn. i.!i:i:: in 
 
 IK' p:':n<'lpl>' nt' iinpai iial ^i li-rtlMii. wliirli WiUijil p'.irr 
 fV' 1 A man nii'li i- llir sauir ili-jiii' nl' Ii.il>ilii\. I'lrjliui! 
 Ui'iili ri^i ill r.iiiv. ^luMiM l!ir nii!itai\ inipir^v im l!ir ar- 
 ni;. , riii/.ni^ nl' \ ii\ rank, in mi tin' fn'liU. tin' v; rri^. iiihI 
 ll;i' pii' iir \-<>:\^\ Int. Ill'- partiriil II rl.ivs . it ;:i,ii -rr.w 
 to i'l' .il .li.i. .;iril l)\ -oriiiv . ;iii 1 1 1 '! i II 1 1 III v|ii 1 1 t.) pi rpii';a! 
 i!;ipi i>niii;;i Mt, .iii.i ;i -la\i'r\. wliirli. tlioiivli In nininMlilc. 
 'ilt^ IiM'in "fi' Il iiiii DiD^t lliiii'j^ w liicli iin II ImM iliar. 
 
 fll I .f. I I piMil. ;|^ iiii.'lit In- cxj.irtiil. \ iin lici n .^aiinrs 
 air 'illir, ili|p|rsM.,|, |i;it l||,-\ ||>i|,il|\ i_r, I r|f:ir l!'l'ir\ ll.l\C 
 
 ^ifi.t' rl :. av. w iiii'li ;iii. In'fi iiinii' ii'jaiiiiij li;i.i at vi-n. 
 f In' pr -; _;iiv> liavi'a r- :nli /,\ oils , ,ii vh,,:,-. f,, \\!:;rh 
 la' '.': ai.' tin ir \ iitiiii-. a- I'l -I a- tli'"^ fai'l t'n a: : I'li-v 
 lia'.i I > -Til ,-s, ;i!miiiI ill.' iiiittir. In! ilir pi M'l' is rfiniir- 
 '1 <'o;'.spii inn;, \,\ :i l,it'_'i- 11 i\ il ll.rj liiiin_' out ;if a uin- 
 ilou . )lli' u III ill I si||, ,,.,<, ill,, I p,,piil;ii \rii j.Miirr u o.il I 
 !)' r-vriliil 1)_\ li|is II iuiiipli.il.l 'llspl.iv ofllii' irfi.iIi'V I.:' 
 ;>'i'.'.'r tlMluplilij on Ji'Tion.il lilni I\-. bat. I Inli.M |';r
 
 f2 A JOURNAL OP TK'^VHLS INf 
 
 rendezvous is not often attacked, although it probably 
 would be, were it not for the strong protection of govern- 
 ment. 
 
 THE DOCKS. 
 
 The ships are not here, as with us, stationed along the 
 wharves, for at low water, the foundations of these struc- 
 tures are in view, and ships moored by their sides, would 
 be left on the bare sand twice in twenty-four hours, with 
 no small exposure to injury from the rapid influx and re- 
 treat of the water, and the great rise and fall which the 
 ship must sustain by such powerful tides as flow in this 
 channel. 
 
 To obviate these, and other inconveniences, the ships 
 are hauled into d(Kks, whei'e tliey lie in j)erfect security. 
 
 These docks, of which tlierc are six wet, besides several 
 dry ones, are among tlie princ'qial curiosities of the place. 
 
 In order to their construction, a large area on the bank 
 of the river is excavated to a sufficient deptii, by digging. 
 It has a rectangular form, and is enclosed by very dee]), 
 wido, and strong walls of massy Iscwn stone, sunk below 
 the bottom of tlie cavity, and rising to the surface of the 
 groini !. I'here is an ojjening at the bason sufficiently 
 wide to admit one shij) at a time. This opening is closed 
 by gates, which are liinged upon opposite sidrs of tlie ca- , 
 nal, and, when shut, they meet at an angle saOiciently j 
 acute to enable them to sustain the pressure of the water ia 
 the bason. In short, they are constructed just as locks 
 are in canals. They open inward, and their operation is 
 very intelligible. 
 
 When the tide rises so as to bring the Mater in the riv- 
 <n' to til'' :-ame level with that in the bason, the gales either
 
 VNCL.Wn. 1!'''II.\M) \N[) StOTI.ANU. ! 
 
 ij[ifn "il' til- Ir ci\Mi arcind, I r family \iilil t,i a iiu'dnat' 
 jHuviT \- Ttt'.i upon tlii'iii. Ill'' uatiiih. 11 tlou . iiulis- 
 1 1 luiiiiatrlv ill tilt' river aii'l ii.i-.-iu and it is i^i iliat iiuir. 
 HI mar it. that ships iiiiisl |Ki>s in uv out : I<ir \\lirii tli<- 
 till'' Iurii>, till' furit'iu, iiou MttiiiL" outwari's. (li>>c- tln' 
 gall's ; thr watrr ill tli'' hasnii is ritaiiin!. aud tin- cliaii- 
 :ii I li a(iiir_' tn it lircoiin's tiitiril\ ilry. Iln' slii[,> iii the 
 !m(!^ reituiii allnat. rind the L'Hti s ^llstaill tin eniiriinnis 
 \\i ijlit I'l tuiiiiv Ii-i t ul' \satiT. (ileal liiiiiniss i^ there- 
 r,,re lire. -^:ir\ in III.' -imetuie .i|' the walls ami ul every 
 part. \\ hen there i-, tini iiim'li uater in tin' dneks. tin- 
 
 < \ce>> i-, let nut \)\ Ilieails iil' \eiH lleles. aud It is ohvious 
 
 that the \\ hole ran he. di.iw n oil in this man mi u liii it i-- 
 i',ei'es>ai V. The lop oi' thr _:ates i> lonned iiiio a too: 
 luiii'je. and a hrii'.'ji' lor carls i^ thrown o\er [In- rai.a!. 
 iinewhat r.eanr the onti r ha-oii. \',^ im iiisol iiiarhiiie- 
 \ th!> last hiid'je is .sumi': oiV to oiii' side, v.li a ships 
 
 No -111 id iiK o,i\ I ai.-nii is .ii>!,i;nid l>\ siiip- m iiin'j 
 ato (a oiitord.iik: ihcA a:e son;, limes o!.!i-rd io\,,iil 
 \' III da % s (iih. r ;or ihr sjii ';ii_' lidi s nr ii,; ii;:i|- im ii -. 
 ! he ( )ntai io w id hise lo \\ ;!il 1. 11 i]a\ s lioui iin' lime ol 
 ill'; ;ilii\'d. a> s';,- iliiw- \,,.t iii;;eh N'vati a' lor l!|i ordil.ar'v 
 li''i's. ;md laii.i liiil'i loll' wait tor the i;. \t spiile' tide. 
 ( oiiiiii,,.! ,|;ips era I'li'i r iiow. hut lia' < >iilario' is di.' lni;- 
 ' \i!i' ;i' :ia -l;;;i di tiir l.i\ei:iool iiaih'. Mai !i dijas is 
 
 1 iiii'.i,i" a.\i;- ri!:u-iii.| t'l \i:i';iiM in 'Uii': on: (: 
 
 I '. '. ; 111 K llii- jr. .iiii'i . ti.' liili i' a ' . nil :!. -iiid. .aai fjr- 
 
 'V ils '; !! ;;. i,,- !.;i.'..- i . '.it i.'.wi v.ilj.t. ;ii 1 tlir l'..>- 
 
 .. 'i iiif I liii' M'li r li.iiJ.: ill tiiiii ! M-M ;-.,! t;;iM.M,-. ami ic|M.r 
 
 il .ai iii^a ,iioi:- \i"'ii-i', -l.t; |.;a (.) -i ,i. .arl w ,i - la \ i ':., ,- ' 
 
 lU llliH'i'
 
 /4 A JuLllNAL OF TIIAVI'JLS I.N' 
 
 said to b(; occasioned at the king's and queen's docks, 03, 
 the captious and tyrannical disposition of the dock mas- 
 ter. Last winter, an American captain, pretending to 
 shake hands with this dock master, and, at the same time, 
 affecting to stumble over something, pulled him off, along 
 with himself, into the water. lie did not value a fall of 
 ten feet, with some chance of drowning, compared with tlie 
 pleasure of taking this kind of vengeance on a man who 
 was cordially hated by all the American masters of ships. 
 The dry docks are intended solely for the purpose of 
 repairing the shi])'s bottom. They are nothing more than 
 long C!nd deep canals, whose sides art? Ibrnied into sloping 
 steps, like stairs, and as the objeoc is to exclude the waiter, 
 the gates open outwards, ^\llen a ship is to be admitted, 
 rlie gates are thrown open at low water, and she comes in 
 wiih the flood. The dock is wide enough to hold only 
 one ship in its breadth, but it is so long, that several can 
 come ill, in succession. After they have arrived at their 
 places, they are moored, and when the tide retires, they 
 are ku dry, resting upon the bottom of the dock, and sus- 
 tained in a perpendicular position by means of proj)S. The 
 gates being closed at low water, the next tide is excluded, 
 und thus the workmen are ailniitted with safety and con- 
 venience cpiiie down to the keel. 
 
 The same bridges are used here as across the entrance 
 tif the wet docks. 
 
 Tlie ciiannel of the river Mersey affords safe anchorage 
 tor shi|)s of any burden. 
 
 In i/iverj)0(,l the prop<*rtion of women is much greater 
 tisan of men. especially in the lower orders of society. The 
 men oi' tliis descrijJtion aie usually in the army or navy,
 
 r\i.l,vvn, HKI.I.AND \M) -<(ri; VM). , ,. 
 
 n\A innltituiliN of ilio iVnialts nrt^ iiiaiiit.-nr,! ,; ')v tin i. 
 
 I .iMTpoitl i^ utll [iro\ilr(l \\'n\\ liackiu y cdiiclif";. 'I'lii^ 
 s ;:ii .iccomiiKulation wliiiii i< fiiiiiiiill_\ iivcrul to a stran- 
 <ji 1. luit Ini uliicli lie will loiiuiKml} p;i\ Iiii:li( r tt.an \\\r 
 riii/ciis. 'I'll.' Inst tiinc that I had occasion to use a en, uli. 
 sii-jicctiii'i llial the chari^c \va-> cm-onIvc. I tu.ik ilouii in 
 ni\ [)(n kt't book, tli' nuinlKT t>l" thr coai'h i'Jul ihc o\\ iici '< 
 ;iainc. .iiul iii<'i. u ithoiil makiiiu any olocctiMn to thr [nice. 
 piiM iiicii till' r-oachmaa a hanilliil of >l.i!li;r.">. ami told 
 liiiii ;o takf u hit hr thou'jht propiT. i !! 'liu' d tnkiii'i 
 aii\ iliinii. Iiiit said lie woald 'jo and coi.-ah his niasicr ; 
 !ir I itiiiiicd ill a I'-'A uiiiiut's-. and t'iok [w: shilliii'j'^ in- 
 strad of tluof which lie had asked at first. I'lic foiinci 
 sum was the h-al lee, and tho extra sdillin'j ua'< i tax 
 wha li he was le\ \ iiej on ine as a stiani:er in the cuini;! \ . 
 'I ii!s 1 1 ill in 'J anecdote is {,{ no other inijioitanc<- than as .in 
 itisi.nne 111 tie conunon disjHi-itiji, iii i.npesc dn stuuM'crs 
 and .if the se!i,r ,ii le- [ in n^i 1 li li I_\ i.i the laws ;ind liar ol 
 pinnsiinn iit inanilesled in the present i n>i\ 
 
 'I ill- l: en e. a I a|ipearaiice ot'dic pupiilaliori of I .iveriiool. 
 Is cxirein'ly like i!iat o| (cir nwn i oiM,tj\ i.n ii in oiii lai'^e 
 <ilies. l.Mis liod\ heif talks, dri^Ms ,111-: .11 (s, and e\ eiv 
 thin' lo.iivs. M) iiuMJi 1 ke \nieiica. thai I caw hardh iie- 
 
 >e i 
 
 h t\e ai ; MiiN CI ii-seil tin 
 
 Most ol thost 
 
 \^ nil v\ ho;n I lia\e hllheilii Ciin\ersrd. lK\e been . Ntiellie- 
 
 i^ ' i\ il .in! kind, .uid tin n- is >caic. Is .u\ appieciable lif- 
 I'ereiici- beluri II ns and the people here, eili.i r in the inaii- 
 nei 111 nialiei I, I eons . rsaii.in. 
 
 Iiidi ed I ,i\ I rponl IS in a si nsr MeNiifn d w i;li \ nn i ica. 
 ^" '""list ml a m| iniiiii lie i. t'a m'eti ()i,i se. and mk h tnnlti- 
 "',|, . ^.a \in.T! 111- ri >iiit tn th;- M.rl.
 
 r6 A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS IN 
 
 The American trade is very important to Liverpool, 
 and scarcely a week elapses without communicatioB witb 
 ^>w-\(erk. 
 
 ^o. IV. LIVERPOOL. 
 
 ITngli;!! difincrs Great men of the city Wine every where u 
 ^heme Coldness of manners Allerton Hall Botaiiical Gar- 
 <ien Mr. Roscoe His usual retirement A transport ship A 
 Quarry Duelling ground Etivirous of Liverpool St. Domin- 
 go Siniiular compliment to the Prince of Gloucester An 
 Knglish hotel Servants Wide difference between them and 
 American servants Tlie cause of it A French servant. 
 
 i:nglish dlnners. 
 
 I DINED to-day at Birciifield, a beautiful seat in the 
 suburbs of Liverpool, formerly the residence of Mr. Ros- 
 i()C. The house is surrounded by highly improved 
 grounds, ornamented witii gra%el walks, winding with 
 many turns among groves and green fiehis, for the ver- 
 dure has now become general in this part of England* 
 Mr. Ewart, ti.e {possessor of this mansion, has been re- 
 cently elected a bailiff of Liverpool, and, on this occasion, 
 gave a kind of ofTicial diimer to the mayor, the aldermen, 
 (he town clerk, and other ollicers of the city. A pre- 
 vious introduction to their host, gave me the honour of 
 dining with these gentlemen, and several others of the 
 first citizens. There were two gentlemen at table, who, 
 when the income tax was laid, gave in their incomes at 
 {wenty thousand })0unds sterling, or alujost ninety then- 
 *^and dolhi.rs.
 
 KNi.I.Wn, HOLLAND AND SCOTLWn. ( , 
 
 Our tah!<- \v;is londcii \\illi luxiirit s aiu! spleiidiiily 
 Uinii>li' li. 'Vhv arraiiL'MBcnts luiwevfr ditl'trcd xny 
 iiltir Imiu t!i<(' which arc usual at tlir tal)!i's t)( pcoiilc 
 of rcirtuiu- in Auicricu. 'HuTf was (uif cu^tnni uhic'i 
 was whollv iii'w to lilt'. 'I lu- <itMitlt'in<Mi < liallniijt'il i a( li 
 othtT to (iriuk ah'. iu>t as is doiu'. t vi'iy u h< if tlsc with 
 will!', at ih'' s.iini- tiiiu> wishir.'i hi ahh ; this wus in<:(!\ 
 iiiiiii:iuctui-v to thr drinkiiiL' nl wiiir.* 
 
 'I'iif \)i->\ was not sii|)tiiiw to ihi' hc-t in oiir iiiar- 
 k't> : the applrs were hani ami iiisipiil. h(\iii'j noiim'- 
 uhat ih'' la-tf oi' raw Iiirn''[is. and \\\<'v w .i-^ !io artii-!f 
 Ixiti |- than till' ((H-ii'sponilfiit pr.'d.;. tioi'.s ol Aiiui';.;;. 
 (\<-.-|it tht' a!r. 
 
 I ilf lliaillKTS ot till' 'Ji'llth'MH'n \\'\r m:'.s-;i;;!::i!I\ l!i' 
 
 saiiii'wilh thn^c of >imilai" A niri icaii circh'-. "^1-; c; 
 
 the siiSjcit^' ol' coMMrs ilioil WflT So |H rv,,;Kil aud !";!. 
 
 that a >traii'.'''i' coiiM not hr snpjiiw.-ij to \)r inloiip.t it 
 riii'ci'iniii',' ihfiii. ;ni 1 laiiiM sc.nciK vp, d^ upon ihfui 
 Ullhoiit ilidilicarv, hid he (Ii;iil<'''d to po^-'-v- ^Uliiiafn, 
 lUlol iiialloii. Tiir oiil\ topii-s whirh Ci llld ' rullsiiirl't ij 
 as ai all j'ciirii!. wnr \]u- all-.'-d p-'cn!:: :; ,.f L;.id 
 ^i^Mll(. ,ind ll:.' iiixi incthiid of lipt iiir.j w'.r-. 
 
 l'oa(o,lhtr\ nr,,;!|.;. ,it l||i>(li-!-. all i's Ir -.. ,|: ;<( - 
 'Ol ihr d. , I.I , of il- lih.Tlii's. it is ll"! -I i;,:. thai tlu 
 ' '! IIH f topn -.1 ;,,;,;, I ;ippf ;ir II ;dd\ i 1 : 1 pi >1 ' . il , t . 
 
 i' 1 n: IS !..'': lioin llic I'n (jijni.-'. ;m:,' i ra>-tntsv 
 -' '\i\ \^\:\'U ! h-.i this topic mciitio!it .', thr (diai-.'cs 
 , ,MiM>t I. Old \Ii !\ iih' c\.i:o ;i l,"_h d<MiT if iilol.s!,!: 
 h'' p I sri.t ?M.>Iil,; t. < hjr I !lll"l!l 111, 111 piiiicalu-. I 
 
 ha\r hi aid, ..i'r|,:i.ii ,,:i lin^ snhj, ,-i \\ nh ,in !i o\ n \\ 1,. !-a- 
 
 
 i 'I' - [nil til f : I .i:'\ c;!!! r i '.,. > in V
 
 78 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 inf^ vehomencc, and with such an appearance of the 
 tUepest concern for the safety of the piibhc resources, 
 and the condign punishment of the deadly sm of pecula- 
 tiun, that T was on the point of setting him dowai for a 
 jj-'itriot of the first order, but, unfortunately I soon learned 
 that he was at that time a candidate for a scat in par- 
 lianient. 
 
 As to the ripening of wine, this is a subject of univer- 
 ^al interest amona: convivial men, and forms a standing 
 topic of discussion, on both sides of the Atlantic, in those 
 circles where aljundaut drinking gives brilliancy to wit, 
 and ardor to patriotism ; and while the faculties are thus 
 sharpened, it is no doubt very natural to descant on the 
 properties of this great cheerer of the heart of man. 
 Tiie bottle went round r?.pidly, and continued its circuit 
 for several hours. Port, (llaret, and Madeira, were the 
 wines ; the two latter are very expensive in this country, 
 and Port costs nearly as much in England as Madeira 
 does with us. The Madeira is not so good as that which 
 has been ripened in our warmer climates, but the Port 
 is better, and is the only wine generally used in Great- 
 Britain. Their intimate connection with Portugal gives 
 it to them in greater purity than we commonly obtain it, 
 for it is not 'lifficult to imitate the astringent taste and 
 purple colour of t'lis wine, so that it is adulterated and 
 even niairuractnred with considerable facility. I'efore 
 dismissing this dinner. T outrht to ol)serve that the reserve 
 and <-ol(lnoss which marked the mauners of most of the 
 gentlemen were strongly contrasted with the polite and 
 uttentive hospitality of our host, (a Scotchman.) who 
 suffered no on<' ot" his c:u(>sts to r(Mii;iiii unnoticed. The 
 liour of diniK r was !iv*' o'clock, and 1 took French h^ave 
 at half past nin?.
 
 KN.:i. \Nn, HOLLAND AND '^(Oll.Ks'o. 
 
 7i> 
 
 Mau 10. I had the honour ot" an iiitrodnction ti> Mr. 
 Hi)>(()e nn n\\ lirst arrival in I jverpool, aiii liis son had 
 th'' L.''>'idat'ss to coiuhict me to-dav to Alltrtoii-lldlL his 
 lalhcr's <t'at, live or six miles Irom town. < )n our way 
 u*' visited tilt' llotanical darden, an institution whii h 
 Mr. Kii>C()e and Dr. ( 'urrii- x't on loit about tlnce y(.ar> 
 <ini'f. I nder their patronaL't' it has llourislifd rapidlv, 
 and is in)\v a tine estalili>hmt'i!t. It oreupies live statute? 
 a'Ti > ; the L'round apprars to 1><" well adapted to thi~ 
 [)iii jiDNi", three is a puml anil a portiuu dI uiarshs' land 
 in till' Muddl'' 111 till" L''ird('ii lor mucIi phiiils as ncjuiie a 
 it >oil or roiistanl iniiiieisidii : the hiii-liDiiscs are e\- 
 trii>i\i; and liaihNoint', and ivhiliil a 'jreat variety ol 
 exutirs. while the whole 'jaiden i^ a place ol' LM(.'at 
 heautv. 
 
 < )nr mad to \llert<in-Hall wa^ ihroiiuh a most deliLdil- 
 i'lil enniiliv. The ri\er Mersey was du our ri'jlil, and 
 the fields dnp.-d with ui iitle decli\ity to its hanks. 
 'Ihe CMiiutv 111 ( he-liire was e\ti-nsi\ t|\- ill \ieu- over 
 the river, and heymid that, Wales with its rude mmiii- 
 tain. 
 
 \llei tnii-H.iil i-^ a '-lone buildinL: whicii has an air of 
 'jraiidenr : it siainis at a eoiisidei able il;>tanre Inun the 
 load, iu the iiiiiUt III beaiitiliil LM'iuiids, and appears 
 everv ua\ litted to be the resiijeiue ol its pri -.-n! iljs- 
 
 tinjUl^iied po>~es>er. Mr. IJiisCoe wi-. .!> I aui i!lIo|-in- 
 r,i. ill' d lo the bar. iiMt iieiu'i diN'jii-|e I with I'e pro- 
 !(<vi,,i,. he turned hi> all> utioii to liii r i'jT'-. lie is how 
 
 eolHlecIed 111 bu-ill'-> with ail e\Ieiir.e bail k ! IlL'-llOII'-e 
 
 111 l.i\iipon|. and filled to t!ii> pliee that he iiiieht 
 
 lli\e |ii,,ie ji I^Uie |,j| illdlll.'iirj iu 111 - la Vom i (e purMiits, 
 
 His house iv Tilled with sti^tues. biis(.. ;.p.l pi'-iur-'-. orir-
 
 80 A JOURNAL OK TRAVELS IN 
 
 cipally Italian, and in his study, he is surrounded by the 
 figures of the men, who are the subjects of his History 
 of Lorenzo, and of Leo X. Of the latter work, not yet 
 given to the world, he shewed me a copy, and point- 
 ed out the beauty of tlie plates executed from designs on 
 wood. 
 
 Mr. Roscoe's person is tall, his figure is graceful, his 
 countenance intelligent, his expression mild, and his fea- 
 tures what would generally be called handsome. He is 
 now in middle life, and is possessed of a private charac- 
 ter of distinguished excellence. His manners are those 
 of a polished gentleman. I had seen him in various 
 situations before I was at his house, and perhaps it is 
 not improper to mention as an instance of his peculiar 
 ))oliteness. that, wlicr he called at the Liverpool Arms 
 and introciured hiinseli", wl)i(!i he did with the greatest 
 ease, he invited some of my fijllow passengers to dine, 
 althougli ti!(\v had no introduction to kirn, and no other 
 connection with iiie, than the accidental one of having 
 been on board ttie same ship. 
 
 From Mr. R. T received every attention which was 
 consistent witli the obligations of pol'teness to a consid- 
 erable number of gentlemen assembled at his table. Some 
 of tiiem were men of literature, and o^ie in particular was 
 said to be engaged in a biograplTK al work ujxmi one of the 
 distinguished literarv men of tlie period of i,(jienzo, tor, 
 Mr l?osc,oe has diffused around him a <:eneral taste for Ital- 
 ian literature. In sucli a eircle it was unpleasant to find 
 literature excluded in favour of those peisonal and loral 
 topics, which, as only neiirhbours and friends can under- 
 stnnd. sucii only slionM paiticipate, ! was p.i: ticidarly 
 solicitous to hear Mr. R. speak upon his favourite subjert,
 
 tNi.L.VND, HOLLAND AND ( C^i.ANO. !> i 
 
 tin' if\i\alur arl< and literalurf in Italy. Ii.ii lii;- euii- 
 v'i>atU'ii tonk a turn wiiicli jn- cliiti' 1 irti\ ihiiiL' hI tliis 
 natiin-, till a call to tlic diau inL.' runiii cut it ^hoil ami 
 U It ^l^. llc^' oo at lihfity, lor a U w miaulfs, ti> s.iti^rv 
 m\ ciiriu>.ity. At an early hour in llic rNcninL,' I rrturn- 
 ''d tu l.iv.i|)in.!. 
 
 h \()U on(|uir>' as to tin' ilr("N> and nianiirrs of jontK'- 
 nirii at tlir^o diiun rs, and as to tin' arianL''nit'iUs ol tlu' 
 Nihil', 1 an^utr, th.it tiit'_\ arc much tin' same a^ [)ic\ail 
 in o;ir citi' > aniouL' iijiulcut proplc. I'lnc-c tinid siImt 
 loik-, lii>id's the lork uhich accomjiauics the kailc 
 a \siuf L'lass iu\ cited in a handsome ijlass vessel contain- 
 iuLT ualer Id keep th' wine tdass cool, each i;uei heiny; 
 huuished uilh this acconiniodation, and ele^iauth liLiurcd 
 and coloured napkins, one heiipj folded l)\t'Ver\ plate : 
 these con%enienias are now to he seen on holh sides ol 
 til-' \satei-. 
 
 'I lie lavjli-li servants are extremelv asbiduous and 
 adroit ; ihev are 'jeiieiallv haiidsonu' well dressnl men, 
 and llie_\ plv the l;ui SI with such uatchlul aitention, 
 that, il lor any re.ison h'' la\s do\s n his kuile and 
 !oik, his plate is iustaiitK' cau'jhl a\\a\, and a clean 
 oui' suhsliiiited. I he maimers ol tif L'en'.l"men I tu .k 
 ar'' ni.ukeil hy l'sssua\il\, liiiu uilh us, and there is 
 h s> <_') iitleiit'ss in lite toiler of \oire and in the turn ol 
 di |iorimeul. As to di<ss perhaps th'\' are more |)uuc- 
 td!oii>. \i Mr. I .w art's e\cr\' L'eullem.in w.is in lull 
 lres> with shoes and silk hose, and llunkinv tliis punc- 
 '.iliousuess necessar\ , I uent lull dressed, and in a c.ir- 
 ria'je, to All. IJoscoeVs, hut tin re 1 met some 'jenilemeu 
 who had come on horsehaek. and u (M'c hoots ijespatfered 
 uilh mud. /\ lihcru weened ill ili'i instance t'.> he a'
 
 82 A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS IN 
 
 lowed in a rural situation, which probably would have 
 been deemed incorrect in a town. 
 
 A TRANSPORT SHIP. 
 
 I found some amusement yesterday in witnessing the em- 
 barkation cJ a recnment of cavalry. The horses were 
 hoisted in by means of a canvas bag which was made to 
 surround the body of the animal, and tied with ropes over 
 the back. To these ropes a tackle was fastened, and the 
 horses were thus raised from the ground. When they first 
 felt the lifting, they flounced and kicked violently, but, the 
 instant their feet were cleared of the gr.)und, they became 
 perfectly still, as if dead, and hung dangling in the air, till 
 they were gently lowered into the hold next the keel. 
 There they stand in double rows, with their heads to a 
 common manger, erected over the keel. In such a situa- 
 tion they must suffer greatly from the confined air. 
 
 The sohli'is, with their wives and children (for usually, 
 some of ;hem have families) are all crowded together 
 between decks, imaiediately above the horses, and only a 
 limited number are allowed to come on deck at once. 
 
 A QUARRY. 
 
 After enjoyino- with a companion the fine views from the 
 mount, and the delightful retreat in the gardens beiiind it, 
 I was forcibly struck yesterday, with the sight of a vast 
 quarry on th^ hill contiynous to l.iverponl. By coiistanT 
 hewing, it has now become a regida-- pit, probahlv sixtv 
 or seventy feet deep, and it may be fifty rods loiio; and thir- 
 ty rods wide. Its walls are formed as if it had been design- 
 ed (or soiiif vast celhir, they are very smooth and |)erpen- 
 'Jicular. Carts go to the \cry bottom of this quarry by
 
 iS.Nf.l. A.-^D, HOLLAND AND SCOTLAND. 8i 
 
 ,neaus of an ta>v doscenl cut tliruu^'li the solid rock: this 
 jiiL^sai:!' i> arclii'd, lor a coii.>idL'ral)k' distance, and tliciv- 
 :uri^ Ccirts couiingout ol it setjii as il' eiiii'iL'iiii; Iioni the 
 jrouiui. 
 
 1 he rock Is a ycUow sand-stone, and, when first ohtain- 
 cii. is very >;i>lt, so as readily to \ieid to iioii tnoN, and is 
 lhu>ta*<ily wn.ii'jht into any I<i:ni: lut altera siiort (po- 
 sure to the air. or immersion in liie water, it hardeu^ .oid 
 cuiiiiinii-, to acijuire firiuness. This makts it |i''< ;ihiir'y 
 lit !iii die ciiiistnietitiu of u liarves :iiid ducks, u hi( h. u ith 
 in. my nf \\\r pidihc bniMin'/s lure, are I'l.rnuii oi it. In 
 the i|iiariy the slune lies jn s'lata. whicii an' nun h broken 
 and I'inndiled. fnr ten or twelve feet from the surface, htit 
 bf<'onie \<\\ regular at ijrea;' r depths. 
 
 This ijuari'N- is said to In' the I lnho/.i n* of Liverpool, 
 wli'-re the \omiir '"'" (if Sj,i/'f ciue to partake in tiio 
 fasiiiimahle p.istiiiit- of slimiii j at ''icli other : (or. dai/- 
 /ini', the opprulMium *>( \meMea. is also the disiirace of 
 l-ji.dand. 
 
 After Cdinin'i up hdm the ijiiarrv . w e walked six or seven 
 miles ill th>' cull lit 1 \ a roll lid I .iverpnul. We were dcli-ht- 
 cd with inaiu iKauliliil coiiiiti\ letreats at l.dL'e Hill and 
 Kv<rloii. eiiiineiiiT^ K IiiL' iiiirlliiast ol I .iNcrjiool. 
 
 Til"' _M miiimIs are iiiii\rrsall\ laid uiil \s ith LTreat neatness, 
 and amidst the lui'jht \erdiae uI'lohn es and 'jrass. tin i^ye 
 Is a_aTi' di!\ rtlir\t d In the siikuiiIuh'ss and h_dit ecphuir il 
 st rp'!;liiii' i.'ia\(| u alks. 
 
 'ill.- v'.c-t- 111 si, If 111 r',\crtoii Hill, sl.ipiii- to ill,' livrr, 
 
 [at sent- 1 ii^ uitli jii.ii firj.ls nl 'jriMl ill aiii\ . sin I minded 
 \ cl. 'ii ,'. 1 .laclhn,' ,_;n)uiiJ nii \\"- .I.-i-''y !i'_>r". oi'iiu-i't- to
 
 84" A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS l!? 
 
 by green hedges, and exhibiting fill that neatness for which 
 English grounds are so much celebrated. 
 
 1 expect much gratification from the picturesque scenery 
 of England, as I am about to travel through the country 
 at a season when it is beginning to assume its most beauti- 
 ful appearance. 
 
 St. Domingo, a seat of the Prince of (Gloucester, the 
 King's nephew, limited our excursion. It lias an appear- 
 ance of grandeur and rural magnificence. The Prince of 
 Gloucester is miich a favourite in I^iverpof)l. I saw an 
 image of him as lirgc as the life, placed beneath the bow- 
 sprit of a slave ship, by way of honouring his highness. 
 
 AN ENGLISH HOTEL. 
 
 The Liverpool Arms is the resort of the nobility and 
 gentry, as well as of men of business, and is, I presume, a 
 fair specimen of this kind of establishments in Lngland. 
 The house is very extensive, and its apartniients are fur- 
 nish(Ml in a superior st}'le. Over the door are the arms of 
 the city of Liverpool, and the hotel certainly does not dis- 
 honour these insignia. One room is considered as common, 
 and, for occupying that, no particular charge is made. 
 Besides this, there are several parlours, where any one who 
 chooses it may be as completely retired as in a private 
 house, his food being served up for him witiiout the danger 
 of intrusion. Such a parloui our little party from tlie 
 Ont.srio has occupied since we have been in Liverpool. 
 But a seijaratc charge at the rate of a guinea a week is 
 made for this room. 
 
 Lveu tlie bed rooms are elegantly furnished, and the 
 beds ;u-! |)erfectly clean, as is th(^ whole house; all the ac- 
 r'oinniodalioiis uccessarv for dressini)' cumniotelv are fur-
 
 iiinI:"'1 I'l !!!' It' '. n-oi:'. aiiil ;i -x -trm ,>!' li<lU. i\t. inline 
 
 t,; ^ \. , , ji,;i r i>! llliv \ IM lliM!M\ In 'll'."> .! ^I'l \ ,1111 il!>I,llltl% 
 
 i\ III lu lih' ihiid IT i.-r, ill '.I'ly. 
 
 lni!i-''(i > ^ r: \ [minsiM.' ai'ci iiinnn'i iti. hi is liinii^linl ;r 
 ilif slmi-ii ,i !i .tici-, ami wiiji ili-' iiiiiinsi civ iliiy (>:' luaniuMS 
 
 v1!l the |i,llt nl' t'l;.- - !\.1UI--. \ -tinr^rr iil,(\ -i"!>( t l'|i>!H 
 
 n \i-v\ aiiijilf liill i.i I II'!'. -I'li'Ii ;',!tir:' -- as ln' cim i-i -. ;",i(j 
 li- ina\ liavf. in r\fv\ iii^taiirr. a Mjiar;;!:" laMi- ior l.iii'.- 
 M :i. !t i^ a!\\ ;!\'-- < '.I'.' I'"'-! iliat lir \s ili rali '.^n' wiia- :J 
 iriiiiHT : no ((iiiij.i iiiit> w ill 1)1- iir:!'' :t' iif mnii- a. imt. 
 ill.' iililitjih jiMiivS wl'tlu' U lil' |-. \\'|i-li hr I'all'i' - .;\s :\ lli'' 
 iiii^iiiliii \', iiif L'la^>. ^iilii'ii'iitt\' iMilical'' la \v ii.:l rvtiin.;lhi:i 
 l!i< M'liiiHtN III till' jin'-t is iicltl. la -iiMit. in -iM'!' a ii"!. i 
 IS til II \virnli I am imw i1i'S( lihiii'. a!nin>l i\.i\ cun:!.!;! 
 if I'lifiicstic lii'i' nia\ Im- ip'iialiH'l. 
 
 lait Inf all tills till II- ;- a jirif'. 1 .nnits;.^ l,.i',sr\ir 
 
 I! at till' rli;'rL''S an- \ii\ < \l i a.\ a: a al . ci m-ii a i in.' lii' lia- 
 
 ,, n-i' tax.ii; ai ni' lliis i muniA. 'I la' jicl i, ,[.. ^hiHin 
 
 111'! si \|.i II I'l' a iii'jlit. \ ('I a mill ai !,; > a \ last n! ('a or I'l rlirr, 
 
 \illi twa-t aial an I'jj, will ii-H r\:.'.,! mn' -hillin.: ami 
 
 : lit j . a r>'. ' ti-a at I \iniii J !- aliw'it ll.i- sai.ir. !)iii tla 
 
 vrimn'i' Is nnnli imai' i \] n'lisiv !. Ii it r.a.sj (^ ca' iwi, 
 
 ilislics, it v> li! I ii-l li \ I- sliiniii,:-. w nil a Ira_al li.-ait. V 
 
 si-jiai all' rlia i '! ;^ ina'li lor .ilninsi i \ , ia liimj- : a j'a- - ni 
 
 Ml 1 w :11 I I '-t I i_lit I II la r. ami a ihUilr i I >!i. i a \ w m-' ^i \ 
 
 'I -I %''n sliiHiii;r. . a In .till' I if I'l lit ri\ I' sliiiliii ;.. ;ia,l ,,n' 
 
 M ^I.M ii na nail' I a till. In I . ; j Ian.] tin la . ; I.ia^t . aii' i 
 
 .1 a a I I \ iniiiL'. ai i- riaish i. 1 1 il ,i^ 1 1 1\ i.il im aN. \\ liili- c'lniiir 
 
 > .! iiialti 1 (I vii '! lanii'i'l. aiai tla n lini' il is mnrli mmi' 
 
 ri H, ;. Iih.a..'' a ..a.v mi-.a ! .,i.^ ' .u ti,i- w .rk 
 null a i- laiaa .\ i%c iii'a.li'a.' (i
 
 So A y'OCKAAL Or TKAVELS I?f 
 
 expensive than both the other meals, for supper is perfectly 
 optional ; it is very genteel to cat it, although it is not un- 
 gcnteel to go without. But this list of charges by no means 
 rornprehends all. The servants at the public houses iu 
 England are paid by the guests, and not by their employ- 
 ers. They not only receive no wages, but many of them 
 pay a premium for tlieir places : that is, the masters of the 
 hotels farm out to their servants the privilege of levying 
 contributions, and the consideration is, their service. At 
 our hotel the chief waiter assured us that he paid one 
 hundred pounds per ainium for his place, besides paying 
 two under waiters, and finding all the clothes' brushes, 
 and some other et ceteras of the house. He had, more- 
 over, if we might credit his story, a wife and five children 
 TO support. The head -vaiters are commonly young men 
 of a genteel appearance, and often dress as well as gentle- 
 men. 
 
 The servants whom it is indispensable to pay in every 
 public-house are, the waiter, who has three pence a meal ; 
 the chamber-maid, who has six pence for every night that 
 you lodge in the house ; and the shoe-black, who is very 
 appropriately called hoois^ receives two pence or three 
 pence for ever}' pair of shoes and boots which he brushes. 
 Besides these, the stranger who comes with horses pays 
 six pence a night to the ostler, and the portei- demands 
 six pence for carrying in the bagirage, and the same sum 
 for bringing it out. The rates which I have slated are the 
 lowest which one can possibly pay with decency. It is 
 usual lo go a little beyond them, and the man who pays 
 most liberally is, you know, in all countries, considered hy 
 this class of i)eople as the most of a gentleman.
 
 l.NwL \M}. HOLLAND \M) 
 
 ^< 
 
 i'lirsr il.'iii.inds it i> impo-vilili- til I \;i.lr or up. 1 ; ilic; 
 ire a> KL'iilail) l)rc)ii!:!it lorwar.l a> tin' ii;!l il^i 1'. ai;>i ;{ 
 li'pairiirj mirsl i> attcinicd l)\ liit" uliolf i''t'mii< 'U -- i- 
 vaiits, ulni ait' iiiiici<iii> to ifiil-a' sii\ic. v wiiich \\,- li,,,', 
 not want, ami sliouKl iir br in .i li' of i.'.'inal .i'l-' ih>' In 
 will crrtaiiilv Ik- rt'iniii(l<',l thai the \\.ii;ii. tin- i ImuiIhi 
 maiil, lln' Itonts. ami prrijaps tlir o-ll" r ami portri'. aic ii >; 
 m lir I'liri^oitiai." 
 
 1 iii'N,/ ru-toin^. will!'' tiny caaiiot lie idii^idncd as 
 iiMiiourahIr lo till' iiaii..:i d in ima i'^. and aif \cr\ limihlc- 
 soiiir to Irav'llris. wiio at'- cvii'v wlicii' pf^tircd uitii ii 
 suaiiii ol" t'.\|)<(t;',mN. are lio\M\cr pHM;urii\r ol" soiiio 
 \iy\ iisci'iil (iin-''|iirii''''s. I'lii' srr\ant> liHilsiii'."- rorllir;i 
 reward iVoin llu- i'iir>t. are atti'nti\e to all lii< uiNlus, ami 
 a>si<inou> to pr< ludte liis coiii!"ort ; their ser\iee is ilnrr- 
 fiilli/ rt'iidi red and i:ot with tliat si///( n sti/rn forjxrsotnt/ 
 rlii;iiifi/. uhii h ue >o iiiti'ii ^I'c in Ane rica. In I aiLdaiul, 
 til'' -frsaiit is coiili iited with hi- <oiiditloii ; lie tioes not 
 aiai at aii\ ililii'' iie.'li'a . u liili in A iiu-rica a jiei'soii iil this 
 dc^iiipiioii will iiMially i>i!ia\c in >iii li a nianner .is t(^ 
 f\ine.' th.it hf n_'ard> von as heiiiu no licttrr th.in hiinstli. 
 'riii> iiiioin ini.'m ! Miivc.-, imwrvfr. lioin the nuiltiplirij 
 rf>oiiii(> ,iiid ^iipi rna' ( cimiition oi liir low la' oidiiN in 
 Amiaaca. and altiioie^li one wduld w i>h to alter tlnar de- 
 poitiiinit, still, as a patriot, lie weiiid not cli.iuvf ki k- 
 iiioNc the cause. 
 
 II. f l,iii^iM.:<- i [.liM-i> t(i i-oiiii .ni't r '111- w.uWr 'ir-- 
 
 ' I'lr.i-. Im iTin'-iii!.. r the ch.nnl.i T-in.ii.l -:, .ml! -n ni:. U< [\\i- 
 Iio.av ,.i,il III.- i!.-|.nty l""a^- III.' ..-il. , - ;iir |M.ri<i , .v.\ m Ml.- 
 ^i:l,^ .ill \ Ol 111 1,1 1 1 11^ ill .Mil ( . nil. I il ,iny line ul' tlnni -l..>iilij lie I.,!'- 
 i;iii;.-ii .ir n.'.J.-. tcil. ll.i il.-|.;ir!iiu i r.i\ . li. r w lIM.r lul...-.\ (.I -.y 
 iniinu'i:-. ai. 1 iiis pliy-i i.jiioiiiy well iinrlvc.!. U.n liiluru i-n ..11.
 
 88 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 Being about to leave Liverpool, I have paid my bili. 
 and after giving the waiter his due, 1 asked him whether 
 that was as much as he usually received ? he replied, that 
 it was what mere travellers paid hin), but that American 
 qcntlemen usually paid very liberally. 
 
 Tiiere was a French servam in the house, who, from 
 the first, manifested designs upon our pockets. V/ith the 
 characteristic obsecjuiousness of bis coumry, he was all 
 ^jows, smiles, and flourishes, with most abundant declara- 
 fions of the pleasure it would give him to consult our wish- 
 es; and he professed a peculiar sympathy for our situations, 
 as being himself a stranger. He had fought for his kingj 
 and lost his estate: lie had been in battles and sieges from 
 Dunkirk to Toulon, and enumerated a list of illustrious 
 "ommanders under whom he had served. Being amused 
 with his harmless vanity, wo listened with some attention 
 to his story, and this gave him such spirits, that, " thrice 
 he routed all his foes, and thrice he slew the slain." 
 
 [ called for a candle to go to bed : the Frenchman 
 i)onnded tlirou.'h the long entry, with the elasticity of an 
 jntelo]>e, and brcutrht me one in less time than \ have 
 ,'aken to relnie the circumstance, and as lie ])resented it, 
 rt-ith a profvii.nd bow, hi'iiged r.iy pard<m. I told my 
 
 companion, Me. l\ -, that unless we repressed this 
 
 ;nau"s oln^efiuioir'ncsf., w^- should be obliged not only to 
 pay him W,v hi-; service'^, but for thr loss of his nobility, 
 for no o!i'' ever saw a l'"rt'nchma!i in a servile situation, in 
 d for^^'igu rouulry, who was not, in liis own account of the 
 matter. vi;y much out of hib j)rni>'.'r place in society, and 
 who bad not hern a marquis, tir at least a L^entlemaii. ^^V 
 treated our .Monsieur coldly for a day or two. and iii^' bo",-'-\, 
 I'Fniles. one! fidi'rlf.^icf: all vanished-
 
 l.N<.l.AND, HOLLAND AND SCOTLAND. 
 
 bO 
 
 Xo. v. MANCIIKSTKR. 
 
 W'iflier Iiii|io~ltiiin mi -ti';iiri;('r> \'ii'\vs of tht; niitlioi- in wri- 
 ting liiiii' to Maiii-iii'-ttT (iilcaii lloii-e rrf^cdt W aniiii,'- 
 tciii lirauiiliil -ifiiiT) Ml'.itjilily ol -ilahjc comji.iiiiori-i^.MaM- 
 (lic-ti.T "^iiiiiliy llli^li-ii liM-iiitdHly \ laiiiily ^ct'iir (nl- 
 
 li ( Ummkiii camp <Millii(: cinH-cli I'riiicf Charli" Ur!icll- 
 
 !>!! 'i! 17 i '>--l;-uh iriti''- \ I'lii! i-o|.hii-al Iri-turc N'oliiiiiiTr- 
 >ini.!a\ iliiHiii,' |)iikr (if lii iil_:c\\ atcr - (ai.al \iirii-iit ty- 
 [Mr:ra|.|iv ('(iltoii iiiarmtactMi'ic- M'-liinil ni -'anipliu- cliintzi',- 
 Ol' ciilliii^ \i-l\cli Of >ini:eiii^ Um' -ha^ Ni'W |a-ucf^~ nl 
 lilcacliin:; Aiiii-ricari -uinao >ki icli (it .M,ii;(;h>I(. [--.Maiiiu-r- 
 i'i(ir.i!-, and cdii'lili'.Mi '>l lln' aili-t-. 
 
 ^Im/ I I. 'l"hi> iiKirniiit: u*- liml cloiuls. rnin, siuisliiiic 
 <iui\v. li;iil ami wind, all iiiirMHHL' "Mcti ullicr iii \:i\i'u\ siu'- 
 ri'vsidii, but, a-^ luii^t nl' tin' (la_\ ^ -ii:ct' my an i\ ,il lia\-' la'cii 
 Inic. I cdiiM iidt ((iii-<iilt.T it its a lair sjicrimt'ii ol Lii'^iisi. 
 \\ ladii'f. 
 
 r.iDi: lo M \M iii:-i }:k 
 
 111 ill.' at'tmi.aui 1 Irft l_/l\il jxa.l lur .M,i:irli<>ti-i-. ,.. 
 iMii|iaii\ with iii\ Irildw -|la^^lll'^<'|. \\r. U'l^'J^, ul' tin 
 ''it\ ol \\ ,l^llill.'t(ln. \V f it'aiiiial I'maitxso 1 .ii_li-!iaifii 
 wild lodji (1 will) ii>. ii! tln' Imtcl at I,i\ fr|ioo'. tlial \vc jiaid 
 y',1 at l\ i\\ ice a^ inncli lor our iliiun'is as iIha li.nl doni'. ami 
 
 'lie ol till' W aitns cxiircNvlv told out' of lll.'so ! .llLdisIllllfll. 
 
 ).ii ' ulnii vtiaii'/>'i> i-aiiic tlitii' tlicv put it on well."'' 
 'I'lii- liourvi 1, uc lia\f no doiiUl, i^ a hiisiut'ss of llir 
 wailfi^ oiil_\ , ,iu(i that tiic tviia luoury thus olitaiucd i-. 
 Jiut into liii-ir ou 11 jiocki Is. This. olvions|\-, is an '\i! 
 iiisiii/ in a '_! a' nnavuir, truin ih. ir ric(i\ iii'_! no ujl;'^ : 
 \ jr''lhus iiiiluc'd to jirt'N upon itiaHL''r-
 
 9() A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS IN 
 
 Coniing as we did immediately from our slii{, wc could 
 not well conceal our being Americans ; but having learned 
 the manners of the pubhc houses, we may hereafter stand 
 a better chance to pass for Englishmen, while we assume 
 the confident knowing air of natives, instead of tlie timidity 
 and doubtful address of strangers. 
 
 As I am now commencing my travels in England, I 
 would remark that you must not expect too much from my 
 rapid observations. Very minute information respecting 
 a foreign country is, without doubt, best obtained from 
 writers who confine themselves to particular topics. But 
 to you, and my other /'r/e??..7,s', I trust that a faithful picture 
 of some portion of real life, actually led in a foreign coun- 
 try, interspersed with a reasonable number of remarks, 
 will be more interesting and useful than a collection of mere 
 dissertations or general accounts. 
 
 One who sits at home and reads concerning another 
 country, wishes to know how that country would appear 
 to him, were he travelling or residing in it. He therefore 
 takes a degree of interest in the narrations of a traveller 
 which he will not feel in the laboured dissertations of the 
 professed essayist, because he goes along with the former, 
 in every step of iiis progress, is a party to all his feelings 
 and adventures, and ultimately becomes himself in imagi- 
 nation, the traveller whose work he is perusing, and thus 
 liis curiosity, his taste tor adventure, and his self love are 
 ;ui enlisted, Avhile the dissertation in form is read like a 
 ?ess(jn. 
 
 .Mr. Riggs and I took two seals in the coach one on the 
 outside and one on the inside, intending to occu|;ythem 
 alternately. You have heard that ])e;i;..le ride on the roofs 
 <jf the Euglijii suij^e fouciies- 1 his situation aliords fine
 
 f.N'il.ANK. HOI.I. VND AND -^niTl.AM). '.'i 
 
 \..cus nf till' C'luutry, ami is often ;i coii\i'iu<'iit relULri-' when 
 til'' iii>i(it' |)lace> ;ir' all taLeii. 
 
 Till' CDSt (il'thc o\it-iii(' sf.it 1^ l)ut lillli' iMun' than liall 
 a> iiiikIi as tlial ol tlic in^iiie. Tliis is a LTifat a(;coiniiiiii.la- 
 tii.u lu til'' [icorcr (iitli'i-. ul i)fuj)lt'. Tjie sui icty oii ilu' ti>[i 
 nI the Coach i> ci'itaiiil\ rather i^rfijarious, l)ul a travtllci 
 who i> !)cnt on ^tcinL: ll"' lace ol' the country in the host ol 
 all puv^ililr .-,iiiiati(M!>, uill not he ditiTied honi this very 
 iiiipoi taut a>l\ aniaje. I)\ the It ai (jI pli hidii contact. * 
 
 I tiist nioiiiiliil tiif top (ii till' coach with nu head al 
 ;ca^1 tiltt I'll I. ct iKMn till' '^roiiinh 'J'lnie was nothiiii,' to 
 >ectn<' one. cxccjit a little inm looji shaped like the handle 
 ol a pad : nu iVet hiin.: down uii>nppoit<'d. rnaccn^toni- 
 I'd t.) -.iirh >l''\ atfd situations, u hen lie ciack. ol" the coaidi- 
 manV whip [aii I'le hor^e> into I'nll motion, over the roti^h 
 paveiiii'nt-. and w i' d.irtf'd rapidly .n'oiind one corni'r and 
 au'ilhi'r. \oii will not be siii-pi iscil. thai at tii>t. 1 Iclt .-onie- 
 what '_'iddv. ;i!id in\ olinitai lly '_'i a^pfd ih'' imn 'juai d with 
 yr<'at fMf. I sunn harned. howi \t i, to iulA ni\ amis in 
 s<'cnrii\ . trii~tin.r to thr liaj.nn'e ol position. 
 
 Til'' first inti'icstiirj- i)t)|fci which attracted our notice, 
 as wi' pidi-crdi'd int'i till' countr\. \uis ( ti'n ml Hni/si . the 
 s.'at n| the cclfhratt'd l>r. So/ommi. 1 nerd not iiilorni 
 you that till' Doctnr is well known in Ain> rica. tor rviiy 
 in. in who has li'arniii'i enouLdi to r<'ad a nrwspapi i. and 
 e\''s iiiou.di \'i prrusc dnuli!'' pira iitliis (It ,in a]>oilircri- 
 r_> 's d.i.ii, iiiiiNt ha\i' heroin'"' ;' ;i;;dnli' 1 \v';lli thf nn rits 
 iw^l III" I. -u ol l)i . Solniii'ia. in Li\ u pi'.'l lir is iini\t r- 
 sall\ calli d a ijhik 1: ,i\\t\ an tr'.pn.ifni-. Iml vou know wlurc 
 
 111'' I'l ii>' 111 tlic iii-i<!i . 1 IM' f'l.'i '. \~ no! ( iiiiri'di I'V the lailc, 
 
 111 a .a lai l"ra ri-i',iai di-Cict'' I'Laik 1' :imi'Mi:iN to 
 
 '.''It i\ p'licr '.! lin- on nil a-, "i-.i.'' \<j t'l.c :v'^r [A \^\--- l^'"^
 
 i)2 A JOURNAL OF TRA\K.LS I.\ 
 
 it is that the prophet is usually without honour, and if the 
 Doctor has missed of obtaining this reward, he has gained 
 a more substantial retribution an ample fortune. 
 
 Dr. Solomon is by birth a Jew and it may well be sup- 
 posed that this circumstance does not diminish the odium 
 which his pretensions and success have created. 
 
 The first eight or ten miles we travelled on a paved way, 
 and our progress was much embarrassed by the great 
 number of carls goin^ into Liverpool.* 
 
 Our first stage was Presrot, an ancient town built of 
 brick. The appearance of that street through which we 
 rode was disagreeable. Here the rain compelled me to 
 leave the roof for the inside. 
 
 If the traveller would be secure of this retreat, it is ne- 
 cessary to pay for an inside seat, and then he can ride in- 
 side o out as he chooses. If he has paid for the top onl}^, 
 he may come in, on paying the diflerence, provided there 
 is room. But the windows of the stage coaches usually 
 form so small a part of the sides, that the opportunity for 
 seeing the country from tlu; inside is often very limited. 
 
 Eight or ten miles more brought us to Warrington, an- 
 other ancient town, with very narrow streets and houses 
 of a ruinous aspect. The country in its vicinity is e\- 
 tremely beautiful, and through the next stage of eigiitecti 
 miles, to Manchester, we had a continued succession of 
 green fields, neat hedge-rows, rividets, and country seats 5 
 
 ' Wlicii carts meet 011 llie road f!ie ciistoin is just the opposite 
 of ours : heie they keep to the left that the drivers may go on the 
 side walks; with us in (U)nsei|neiice of keeping to the rif^lit, tlie 
 drivers are brought into tlie middle of the road, bat as \vc rarely 
 have side walks iipon our roads, this is, as regards us of j:o mo-
 
 K.N. . I AND, HOI.LANt) AND Sf.Vri.ASU. <h' 
 
 -.OOIK-; |.t ruliarlv (.! lii'lilliil to us who liail so rrccntlv fu'T 
 'n rlif in-raii. 
 
 I lie M^'ftatioii, rctrc^lii'il and hriiihti'iifil l>\ remit 
 vaiiw. ua^olllH' purest ami dccprst LTt't'ii. and tin- ^lIli^lnd 
 iiiMtnrss ot" till- plant itioi\s and tu'lds. cviiK'i'd a lii'.di di*- 
 L'lti' (i| skill and care in tin' a<_M i<"n!lure. 
 Man\ ot till' lit'dL't-' rows wcrt' triniun'd w iili tin LUfatrsl 
 t xartiii'ss ; tli<'\ are tin- ino><t perlcct rfiicc that can lio 
 iina'jint'ij, luinij at once impi rvious to small an'nnaN and 
 unp:is>al)!i' li\ laruf ones iiicapai)lc ol ht-inL' pullfd up 
 uMilhrown iir disordered, and. Io|- niaiiN \ears U'-ediiii.' no 
 repair; they aKo lorni a nio^t iteauiilul I'eatuic in the 
 scenery ot' the coinitiy, especially when thev are tilled liy 
 ll'pworv- \^lllrl| i, inor.' or liss tht- fat 1 \a'l\ ueiiei all y ; tllC 
 
 tii.ldsare a li'h ijurinent. and the hed'ie rows lorni t e eni- 
 iu'oidered ( d'je or border. In some instances, the htdiie 
 ro^\s are placed on nioinuls or d\kes ot" earth, which in 
 
 U'lill. Woidd I'ol in a competent elU losiire nl ihemseUeS, 
 e-jii im1I\ as lhe\ aie acr.iiiipanied h\ ditches nul olwhicil 
 ill'' earlii whi' ii lormed them has lieeii taken. In many 
 Mi^iaiices, and especialK in !he \iclnity ol' (.''iitlenK ii's 
 iu'ii-es, these mounds or d\ kes are sodded wiih 'jreal e\- 
 aciness. sn that tlie \erihn'e is as p- iieet (jii their ahiinst 
 perpeiidiculsr sides as in tin- tii'hls. and \Uien npiai ilie tnp 
 el'ili'se r;ii:d p.irap' i<. the line laii^e row lis.'s. tiiiiimed 
 w nil perleci pii-cisi.in, and loriniii'.' tin' mnsi eli -^ai.i -ree!, 
 I'iiiije, it is seareelv pe,sil)le ti> iimc^iic' an\ liiiiii: .'l the 
 kind nnae '_;raiii\ in_^ Xru'u.d smne plantatieiis. the 
 niiMniii and In dje |.i\v tiPL;<thi r. i -tim iiin Imni the i)et- 
 Iwm n| thi; dii' h, nam I- !; ' ol t<'!! >>! iwcNe |,.et :> 
 h.ei.lM.
 
 94 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 Our companions were social, and we found that the cii 
 cumstance of being shut up in the same coach, enabled us 
 to dispense with the formalities of introduction. As we 
 now liad no reasons for concealing our origin, we avowed 
 ourselves to be Americans and made the circumstance of 
 our being strangers in the country, the reason for asking 
 numerous questions ; they were answered with nadiness 
 and civility, and conversation flowed without interruption. 
 
 Lancashire is a fine country for grass and cattle. Its 
 dray-horses are animals o^ stupendous size; they are per- 
 fectly black, very fat, and rarely move faster t!ian a walk. 
 The carts in Liverpool are drawn by liorses of this de- 
 scription, and one of them was imported into Connecticut 
 a few years ago, for the sake of iin]jroving om uwn dray 
 breed, but I believe the exj^eriment did not succeed, as 
 our climate a})pears not well adapted to so corpulent an 
 animal. 
 
 MANCHESTER. 
 
 May 12. It being the Sabbfith, we wandered out to 
 find a church, and by cluuice came to tiie olil Cathechal, 
 where an attendant, an old man, dressed in a kind of uni- 
 form i)f blue and red, conducted us to a sent in the gallery, 
 as we ere strangers, and had no claim to any more hon- 
 ourable place. 
 
 The preacher was a young man, wlio seemed very 
 intent on exhil)itiiio: ''his own iair form and just propor- 
 tion." 
 
 His sermon was a kind of discursive historical essay on 
 the temjKnary apostacy of St, Peter; it had very little the- 
 ology in it of any kind. lie liad. however, oiir merit which 
 his appearance wouhl not li;i\e lerl one to expect, that f)f
 
 f>'.i.A>i>. iu)i.LA\n AVI) >M)fi,VNn. [1. 
 
 lirju'j >iip( I'mi to the tlfsiri- ol llatt<iiiiL' ;il Ifiist ono liall ol 
 ln>> auiiii iiif : lot lie n'iii,irktHl. tliat St. I'rttr, was i oii- 
 louuilt'.l l>\ tiic qiifslioii )1 a maul soia ant, imv iniimiilaH'il 
 h\ a /ill)/, fi-iiin (I iroiiian. \ lii> tliiiri li uas well lillfd, 
 .iiK.i tlic uicaifi part appiMnd to hi poor [ic()|)h'. 
 
 lla\iii_'a^ \tt Ix'i'ii ill I,nL:laiul only a ku (lav>. luv 
 
 (inhiMls,a> M'l mas \s ill sii)i|ii)m' is activf. aibl (oii>taut- 
 Iv I iiij)li>sril. ill ciMUi) iiiiu till' iiiaiuurs o|' ilii> ol.l roiiii- 
 tiA null iho:-!' ol the \i\\ voiiii'j- oiii' ol" u hicli \\v arc iiu- 
 tistv. 'I'lic coiiiiiai iMiiis ol' ira\illrr>. ami tluir tji'iu'ial 
 roiK lus.iiii^, air ho\M\rr a'\\a\> liahlr to i-nor, ht'caii>e 
 thi_\ iinljf liiiiii a liiiiili il \ii'u ol the Mihicrt : the [iri'^tiil 
 ih>t.uii'i' liirni^lii^ till- liiiii. and i> loo apt to loiin tin' iia^i- 
 ci| till' coni'lii-ioii. < iriifial iiiihiction^ ai'f ahva\v iLiiil'T- 
 oii^ uiil'>^ ili.iuii rroiii a _Ttat iui!ii!/i r ot' partiriilais. 
 ] ol r.i-taii' c. I rxpi'iH-nrril a 'j i rat th'uriH,' of rmlriifsi 
 Tim::! i1i.- \| i\.m ol l.i\<Tpoo|. uiiicli proiliircil ,m illipit'v- 
 -loii iiiiiav oiii ;iMi' to til.' 'JO, 111 inaniuTs ot tho iiiaL'i^traiA 
 ol' l.ii'jland. hut iiii \i r\ in-\i (iia':islialt' with whom I hi- 
 raiiii- ( oii\ I I v,iiit. ciLiiiil this iiii|irrssioii, and produrtni 
 tin- iiM|io>ili- : il iv hijhlv pr^'liahU' ih.it hoth imprc^-ioii^ 
 \Mir iiioii' Miiv. ainl ih.it l.ii'jiisli in I'jistratfs air !iiu<-h 
 hlsr ill.'-'' ol 1. till 1 r.jiiiiii iiN. nidi', iiidill'miit. or pohl''. 
 ,11 roidiii'i to ihr p mil iilai ( liaiact'T and hiiiii..ir i!i tin.' 
 man. In in mdiiiL' a fn't. ho^v i\ii , thn i' c i.iiin; hi' any 
 d.i': ' r "i ' iior, and it ','i\i's inr pli a-iin' to ni.itr an in- 
 st.iin ' ol li.oiis lio-pil:dit\ I'll i\i d h\ ni\ lomp.iinon nad 
 lii\ -i-ir. \\ illioiit ihi- --inallr-t 1 lini t" 11, and u it ii thi' ha/.- 
 aid \s hii h alw ;i\ > .ilti iid-> till' iHstd'-, m.- ni ( oiitidf-nct', /// 
 'Irani r, nnoii a vtiaiiL:''!'. Mi. 1' . a la'^in.itahl'-
 
 96 A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS IK 
 
 merchant of Manchester, was our stage coach companioii 
 from Liverpool, and soon discovered himself to he so in- 
 telligent a man that we were prompted to make such in- 
 quiries as proved us to be foreigners. On our arrival at 
 
 ]\Ianchester, Mr. T gave us his address, requested us 
 
 to call upon him, and promised to show us the curiosities 
 of the town. Accordingly we called, and were introduced 
 into an intelligent and agreeable fimily, whose cordial 
 manners gave us confidence to accept the offer of their 
 hospitality. We took tea with them, and would have 
 withdrawn at an early hour, had not tlieir kindness exceed- 
 ed our diiiidence, and induced us to sp('nd the evening. 
 We found that our newly acquired friend was not merely 
 a man of business. Jle had a literary turn, which was 
 evinced by a judicious collection of ancient coins, maps 
 and books, principally historical. lie had an atlas of 
 American maps, and made me point out tlie very spot of 
 my residence when at home. Among his coins were sev- 
 eral of the Roman emperors, and of the republic. On 
 one of the coins of the republic, was the story of I'omulus 
 and Remus, sucking the wolf; the boldness of the relief 
 was very little impaired by time. He had also some Saxon 
 coins which, although rude, were interesting. 
 
 In the mean time. Dr. T , the father of the gentle- 
 man to whose politeness we had been so much indebted, 
 returned from a tour of professional duty, (for he was a 
 physician) and insisted on our staying to supper. Our 
 host entertained us with all the kindness of friendship, and 
 in the midst rf convivial freedom, we forgot that we were 
 St; .Migers 7'he glass circulated cheerfully I)ut moderateh', 
 and we i'vAt gratefid to the country w'.iose inhabitants 
 treated us with such gratuitous hos))itality. ^Ve f-jun
 
 1- Vi.I, \Nn, HOI I. AM) \M -( -"iTl \M). 
 
 'J 7 
 
 iliat 1*1. 1" .IS ,1 .Noiili liri;ii;i. ;ri i ii:nl h' ' ii a warm 
 
 lii<ii,i .'< ill'-' Aiui-iii ail r'Aoliiii'iii. I ill' i"ii\, . ,;iti,iii 
 I unit I ! II [1(111 i(s iiidst intei' ^tiii'_' m-iius. .iii'i i lir w jh'l' i.nn- 
 il\ uiTf w arni in tlifir prai^e^ ol W a-li!i;';ti>!i. l.i -:i--\) -n- 
 ' i'.t\ II u a> no (|il}i<-iilt tiiiiiL: U> (i* tain u- !iil a la;> ii'iir, 
 .iiiii w iicii ue todk (Uir li a\.'. it u a^ ',s iili \\ .ir;a -ciicil..; i'H> 
 !iat wi wouhl rf|)( at our \ ivii. 
 
 Mm/ l.i. I r.'l- r til.' Liiiiiaia-.' '<<' Mr. 'i \v.- iiav>" 
 
 ivi'.' il III'' ('('11' L'"' "! Maiii'lic^t' r. I !if Iriiliinj i- .m aii- 
 
 K i!t niiHi,i-hrv. iK'U ajij'iii)iri,i!>'(l t) th'' tiliaMrn'U ui 
 
 '\'^Un\'ui'i ii(i\ s, \\ lit) r>nia;ii if i c wnly till lli' y an- Icur- 
 
 .('11 \^ ai-> "M, and ar^' tlit-a a|ijir('miccii to \. ;;!';;> r. i i',' 
 
 "III; !(i\ MKi.t-. 
 
 'liii- ((illi-jc laintaiii- a \ .l,,;i'.l'- liiM.ny if liiii ii uui;- 
 .iinl \ ..!iiiii> - : V. ( u (ac iiwt ii.'W I \ ir |ii 1 i:i'.i! .! Ii >.,,'. ,!;!\ 
 .'mIsv (i, a :i. a^ 1 1 It A \Mif a!! : it iv'.c.i :i\ a 1 I'.li.'f >! w \:r. 
 
 i;, 
 
 a - . I i 1 11 
 
 thai .! (Ml II. :U. -. ail 1 ai.i'Mi 
 
 :iii -. lilt \ ai'-aiii iiN ( n law ' !,"> .^,',7-/, '/:, i:,u/ .^ r ,,-// ; 
 
 '.].< |a'ia'-iliT U Iv i'm Jill.-- \\>\\ ill! iii^llf.l \\':]'\ '\Sn|(!-. 
 
 :i '1 I li.r. f ^ ;'ii laif m \ lui i a ,i \i iin ii \\ a^ -1: \\\\ ;^ li:-, 
 I 111- iMu - III till- ill -til I lli I 'a ;.i I- ill! -M .1 in ilif l;, i !i ui' jIh^ 
 -I \Ii't'i;;!i fi ii!;ii \ . \s iia li i- ,i kii; i nl jn lliiiMl i a iiluf t 1 1 n sc 
 . |ii;'i w iiii .a I' i:!;.-! ii' ,';. .iiiiaii.i liic Vi.aiNi. 'Hit \ w : 
 !-. I .1 ('.: II. -iiia a ^i'l -1 i |,ii 1-. I I I .; ilii- -,i;ac lii.iti m.iI--. 
 
 I 111 \' 111 i.ililc 1 ililiic w'aii ii ilii \ iiiliiliit. V',,!- Ml!' f ll; 
 
 , liiiif 111 lliiiM- lit iMi!. (j ill II. - \u:ii lll.^' l'..' -t r!,,v;.,ii ;,.| 
 
 . an II -t III I ai'i aa- It 1 i'\ I'nr jia I\ . 1; i> ^il la'i .1 mi i'- 
 I'l \ ji; a'l' \v :iii I til,' I!, lai lU^ l..ia ,i ^iiaiiai r ^!ai m 'ii. ( ''n 
 
 !, ii'ia 1 -i'!' n; lia- I I 'A 11 .ii'i' till' It main V i,i' ,i I'm ,ji,,;,i! .'. 
 
 '!! It (l. ln;:_ ; '.i tii ' v.aif uailik'- |:('ti|,lf : th< ua!! I 
 
 '1 . '. '>
 
 9S A JOL'RNAL 01- IRAVEi.a m 
 
 in some places tolerably entire, and every where they ait 
 siifFiciently distinct to mark the extent of the camp, which 
 enclosed about twelve acres. I broke off a piece of the 
 cement, which at a fiitiue day I may liave the pleasure of 
 shewing you, ibr we have no Roman ruins in America. 
 
 Near the college is the old collegiate church. It was 
 erected in the fifteenth century, and is a very venerable 
 remnant of Gothic architecture. I shall not trouble you 
 Avith a particular account of the tombs which it contains of 
 ancient nobility ; of its rude corvings and statues, which 
 set all gravity at defiance ; nor of its grotesque tapestry, 
 nor of the ludicrous exliibition of seraphs playing on fid- 
 dles. Tlie effect of the whole is nevertheless very solemn, 
 and it needs no great effoit of the imagination to fancy 
 ones-self transported back to the period of the seventh 
 TIenry. Over tlie altnr are suspended the colours of the 
 :5eventy-second regiment, a part of the army that so bravel} 
 and successfully defended Gibraltar, under General Elliot. 
 Tiie regiment was raised in Manchester, and on their re- 
 turn, they deposited in this church, the banners under 
 which they fought. 
 
 It suffered much during tiic civil wars, being then in the 
 ventre of a fortress, which was besieged b}' ih.e Earl of 
 Derby; for Manchester was on the popular s^itle. 
 
 Mr. T pointed out the house iu which Prince 
 
 Cliaries, the Pretender, lodged in lT-i~', when he shook 
 the throne of the house of Hanover. Manchester was 
 warmly in his interest, and I saw the phice in the public 
 .-.quare, where the heads of some of the first gentlemen of 
 ihe town, who had held commissions in tlie pretender's 
 army, were stuck on jjoles, and their (juarters suspended 
 on hooks. For these and other similar barbarities, (for ^'
 
 > Nui. \Nn. noi.r. \Ni> and -> -i i : \Mj. 
 
 W 
 
 :> li^'u k'r\ to "'all lliciu wliolfsomc ox:inijili~> nl ...\, i ily,) 
 ill NmiiIi Uiiiaiu, to this (la_\ , cxcrratcs llir mrniniy of llic 
 Diiki wl ( 'uiiilx'iland, mult r wh.xc orii'T-; tiit'>.o o\!iil)i- 
 liiMiN wiTc mailc. TicaNnii is, undoulitciilv. an riKMnxHi- 
 . tiriH . iiiil death is a scllicicnt ptiiiisliinciit ! ir anv (ilicncr 
 a'jaiiisl socittv ; and thi :"< is a diL'nit\' in in^tifc that i^ di>- 
 .raicd, l)\ \iolati(Mi> nfii human I^iini, which i>r*' i<jaiill_' 
 ,*tro( inu> .uul laiirih'. 
 
 li is iMi N.M.dl jii'itiiirali'iii to liiiil a l.i^lc lor NCirtit'e m 
 a uii'al ntannl.n tiirir.:' town, w liric ihc aia|uisition ol' [unp- 
 1 ri\ i- ilic \i'i A lui-.ini's> oi lilc 'I he [ihilrsoplijcid soci- 
 (t\ oi \Ianchfst.T lias taN'on il the world with vcmtjI n ol- 
 luiiiN ipf iran'^^ction-. <'o,ii,dnin'_'' maii\ imi;.oriiint and in- 
 li ii~tiirj \ii\" I's. I \\(i [i!iilo>o|)hical nu'ii ol (dii-.id<'ra!)lc 
 'ii^rinrtiiiH ifsidf in ii , Mr. \\ d'liani llmiA. ami .Mr. John 
 D.dtoii. I li.iM- h.id till' ])li a-iiic. till- lAciiiii'j. ol' houiiiLT 
 III iiiti 11 vliirj liTiiirr lioiu ^lI. Daltoii.on < Ircii i<i!\ : his 
 slal'lllriilN. \\ hicll \vrii;\(|\ ji; r-|)i(aio;|v.. \\ rrt illi|v;i ;'I( i' 
 !i\ -lA i; a! %( lA" appo^il.' lApi'i illli'Ut^. ilis h'l tMli'-loOlll 
 
 , ill a 1 III! Mill" lirliinL'iii',' to til-' )ihilosi)jilii( al socit t_\ . am! 
 ill- 111 inn- an- 'jin ''ii I'l < ili/,i n- ot M iiiid.i-icr. of \ ,u imi- 
 [aa-u,i- ,iii.l ol holli si\i -. 'I'll.- iliiaiic ojicmdaltln 
 - im'- lauir uiih lii- jrctiirc. imt ii- alliai lions wtro uoi 
 alli' 11 111 III dra-.\- ott" a convidiTal)!!- iiiiailier ol \oimi: la- 
 
 \V lio COUII 
 
 a part oT Mr. D.dioi 
 
 1 s ,1111 llfllll'. 
 
 ^Ir. 1 > ill on ( xhi'ilti'd OIK' r\p' riim iil \i. liii li I lUA a r saw 
 ''>>ill [>' I I'll iii'd 111 loi' . \ w-lrc mado srMial 'iicnii 
 -,:-'' iu\ l;ir I )oii). Ill i;; .iltarlndfo iho wall; it- rinnM 
 \i i> in; -11 ioli.l al small distamas liy ih,' riittili'j ot' ill. 
 " : ''.' ' I'll ',', a- do k "I'd. and w !ii-n a p"W i rliil < I-
 
 100 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS lis" 
 
 trical discharge was passed througli the wire, it exhibitea 
 a brilHant corriiscatlon at every interruption. Mr. Dahon 
 belongs to tlie society of friends, and a considerable num- 
 ber of them attended his lecture. In speaking of him, 
 ihey adopted their customary familiarity calling him 
 John, and Jolm Dalton. Had I not known that this style 
 of sjjeakine indicates with them only kindness, I should 
 iiave thoiight that it little accorded with the respect due to 
 so distinguished a philosopher. Mr. Dalton is much cele- 
 Ijrated for profouud original views, and lor judicious and 
 ;imple experiments. One of his most interesting discov- 
 eries is, that all ieriform bodies, both gases and vapours, 
 '^xpand equally b\^ th.e same variations of tcinpcrature, 
 uiid that imy particular a;'riform body is subject to the 
 same law in different parts of the scale of heat. Mv. Dal- 
 tuu shewed taetlie apparatus Ijy which tliese very interest- 
 ing discoveries were made and estalilished.* It was cx- 
 ireinely simple, being little more than a collection of glass 
 iubes, fitted up in a [.articulai nmnner. Indeevl Mr. Dal- 
 foi;'a apparatus is distinguished raiiier for tlie succfssfiu 
 use lie makes of it, than fur its extent or variety. Like 
 !)r. Priestley, he has done great things by -^rnall means. I 
 ^ouglit an iiilr!('i.,otion to Mr. or rather Dr. William llen- 
 iV. hvA !"> wa- out oi" to'.vii, which deprived me of the 
 pit.-asurf of srciivr hiin. 'I'hebe gciri'euicn, althouirii no^ 
 ny any mi ans ilw' only scientific i!ir;i in Mauche>^kr, art- 
 ,::iiO!;i:; Un' ttjo-i distiu^in^died. 
 
 i'lip ji'ie iii-C'np:'y \vf,s liii.Je by ( ,a\ l.'i-'-iic i^i:0; at Fan- 
 ;j!it t;!t';-t: is lieci-ive v^l'U-iiCv. liifii l!u..-t; piiiki :iij)!if!i-; wei'c i;;iio 
 lint oi ciich other-- r(;--o;ii'i:!:!,'v . iitiiJ it is (inly one instance anion;: 
 i-aultitu'.lo in tiie lii^;(oi'y ot iikmJi.i'ii f:cicnce, wlicre the :same dii 
 i '"\>'i-v bu- ' '(.!: mn.de in (iitiV-rt^i' (.'iti'.rie^f abonl 'b'.' -yirn' <i'nt
 
 l,.\oI.AM), HOLLAND AM) *t OTI WD. M" 
 
 I li.ivo stMMi a review ot" stveral rei:imeiits ol vuliniteer- 
 lai'^t'd ill tills tnuii. aiiil litld in reailiiie.--: to art. in eas'* 
 t)l invasion. Tliey aie CdiiiiKisvi [iiiiicipally ol' lueeliin- 
 les and maimfactiireis. liiil 'jrntliiDt u ol l!i>' hi'jliest rank 
 aiiii first toitmie, e([iiallv willi tln' lowest ol tlie jieojile, 
 |oiii tlifse luiliiaiv associaliMiis. Their appearaiioe at tiie 
 rf\ii'\v uas siicli as tii do them miuli credit, alllioiii:li 
 i1p\ are lar Ii'Mii liriiiL' sik |i perli'et inaeliiiies a^ recjlilar 
 smMh'I's. Till' n \ i. \v was on S;mda\ . lut ause this d<i\ 
 dill's not iiiti 111 !' with ihr wirrk of the .ntists, \\ c aie 
 not inlorin.',! win thfr any niililar\' Ki nnicnf/ iias discn\-- 
 (red. in surnt- ntwl\ rmnid iiiaiuiseript. sneli a i-eadiii'j as 
 this, in the d.ecaloLme * si\ das'^ shall thou l.dionr. .iii I 
 J!'- si'vcnih sh;dt tlmu train ;" iiowTxer this mav he. Siiii- 
 
 i.a d.rillinL' is siid to have hreunie irentral, in I.iil'- 
 ;.iiid. s:n(r till' alarm ol' iM\asii)ii iuis tiniud tie in into a 
 
 Mtii'!! "\ s,,|,!ii-rs. 
 
 lu Ki: (ir i;KiiH,i.\v \ i kr s cvn m. 
 
 Villi lia\'- In aid ,<( ihc Duke ol Ih id'^ewaler's canal, 
 iiid will ui c.iins. iMiii hide th.il I ha\ e \ isiird so iiitr rest- 
 ing an i.h;i (I. It w;is i-ni ]\,\ tlie s,d%i' ol' 'irii;"_dn'j; tin' 
 Dnkt's i-c il to !:ds ii"cii. The canal coniiicls Mancln s- 
 o I and laNnjioMl. ,iiid. ;i; the distance of linily niilcs lie- 
 tw'i'ii !!;-( ;wi) lowiis. thrir is lint niif lock ; till' canal 
 ]ir< M I ( d> on a I'Ail. m in ai Iv so. and In this I'wA it |)frl'o- 
 i.T' - hills, .i;': I , |.,sv, ^ \ alli\ - and 1 1\ i i -, ' m an Ins lai-cd 
 t'i'i :;s si)|i|i ' ; : i'i\in ci .jsv,.s tin' iimi Mersr^ , and. ;it 
 tin' s.ina' la laur.r, iinals ina\ In s.iii |iassiin_' nnder tin" 
 :ri u 's of tf:" can i'. aknij lh'> ri\ci . ami "tlnT hnaf-J t'li.'t
 
 102 A JOUI'.NAL OF 'IKAVii-LS IiV 
 
 ing over tlic arches and crossing the river, as if in tiie air : 
 a river above a river. Near Manchester the canal passes 
 under ground for a quarter of a mile ; a roof is neatly 
 arched with brick, and when I placed myself at one end 
 and hallowed, the soiuid was reverberated with a deep 
 rolling echo, dying away at length towards the other end. 
 By means of a jmiction witli other canals, a water 
 coinmunicntion is opened between Liverpool and Hull, 
 and l.i\erpool and London, and of course between Man- 
 chester, Hull and London. 
 
 ANCIENT TYPOGRAPHY. 
 
 May 14. Mr. Roscoe's kindness has followed mo to 
 Manchester, and made me acquainted, by means of a let- 
 ter, despatched after I I'/t Liverpool, witli a friend of his 
 here, who has dislinguished himself b}- collecting, at a 
 great expense, a rarr- assemblage of ancient and valuable 
 books, and of uncommon specimens of typograi)hy. 
 Among many varieties of the latter description, he shew- 
 ed me a book printed by William C'axton, the first printei 
 in oritain. What a cliange has the introduction of print- 
 ing effected in this island : The era is not less important 
 tlian tliat of Ma<j;na Ciiarta, or of the revolution which fix- 
 ed the British constitution. 
 
 Mr. Roscoe's i'riend procin-ed me access to the infirma- 
 ry of Maaciiester, an iiislitution wliich does iionour to tlie 
 town. 
 
 f'OTTON MANLF.\CTOr;ii:S. 
 
 I have empi<,\eii no small part of the time since I liay^ 
 been in Manchfv-rter, in visitiii.g those extensive manufac- 
 U'riri; c-.'-tablishmfnts, which are th^' wonder of t'le world.
 
 i:N..i \M, Hol.I.WD WD -((ill \MI. 
 
 I (x; 
 
 ,ini !in' plhlr n! l'.ll_'lari(|. Til-' |)lu|.lii I(ll^ iia\f. ill tilt 
 
 iiiii^l liiii r.il .111. I <ill'iiti\c lu.iniiri . alfiiiiiMl cmiv lacil- 
 ir\ uiiicli cmiM Liivf 111'' till' I'lllfNt \ir\s cii t!iii>o 
 u.iiL> thai Iiiiiil>ii I' I ill'- I 'nit'-ii Slalfs s,, lai-ji' a piri ni 
 tlii'ir clctliiirj. I'lit, all. r all. I liibl \rry liitli' t'> u riii' mi 
 .1 Miii,. ri u ii- re Mill u ill lie jinj lai''':! in (x pi it iiiii<-ii. \n 
 al!'-iiiiit to (I'.'-jcnlM' til'' iiilrii all- !uai'iiiU''iy. ainl thr ctni- 
 (<[}> j)i''"-i'--i > !i\' vslii'li "ur i-i'iis riiii'uc- aii'l cuiiiiMri ai'c 
 . "II' lit' il, nr "111 %aiiii_\ 'jiatilif'l. \v "iiM lie IhiiIi ti'ilimi- 
 . ! 11^'-!'-^-. l.\i-ii \'.li'ii "III- i^ vi III liiii a!iii.i>t ill.' ijiii 
 "i 'II tli"ii>ai!!i -jhh.N ; iii'l ilii' ^- -iii'iiiij 111 ,iN in,iii\ ^Itut- 
 
 tl'-^. Ill- lia> v<-:i| ,i-I>. :iil\ .!lv'i:i. t (-. i| n ; j;-r! |, n^iuii ul' the in- 
 
 ^ III'- wiiiiilt'rriil ii'^iilts 
 
 t'-ni'-iliali- >lt 
 
 hv \v liwii n, 
 
 jir.i.i'a-.NJ : aiiil iii i>' !iiiii>i-l! li.'Ci.n.' \ w.-umt, or a ^|)iii- 
 in'i-. !ii-|mi-i' h,' (-,111 '!. Mil M aiiiiiii'-i tin- jnriic'iiiar-- ulilifsr- 
 .-.friiiiii'. I\ siiii|'ii '11-. N 'l iiiy iiiiiiic>>iiiii> iia\ ' imt liet'P. 
 ah" ;'iii' i- t'Mi \ ,i_ii'- l..j li, -1! ijiiimi. 
 
 Ii w 1- a ii.-\\ 1,1' 1 !! Ill . I'lai th'- iiiii^i liiMimrnl ul' tli'' 
 
 ;:iit-i-~ an- v!aiii|i' 1 \>\ mk an> ul riiji|)iT (-\ liiii I. i'-. mi 
 \siiiili ill'- riL'MH'-- an- n_'i a\ i-ij : tih-^f cv liiiiiri > a!-(-ciis- 
 .ii'l uiih till |iriip'-r ^'iii>taii'-i'. aiiil tin ii i!iijirr-.^i'il mi 
 
 , -tiiiV- liS' r.iliiJiL'. 
 'I ill- \i!\'tNar'- \\ii\i-ii. ,it lii-i. v.iihoat aii\ cl" tlia'. 
 (l.i\\i,\ cii.iii,:'. \\ii,.ii laa'rv' - lii'iii M) !Mi-,i>aut \<i ;!iv 
 
 ;c!|. 'I 11' l';; ,'^> \S i;l'-:i nn' t"iMIIl>lhi- ^1' lu. ;ti-. ii" 
 
 l!i -t i!i-i I'. ' . ii.~' ' Ifl at hmii < ,1,!- la tii'- \ ' i \ trxiiire 
 
 'r- I \ '111, ;> : ,)!.ii!i.''i a \ ;- iiahi',' c "' -iiiai! 
 
 , riiiin'iii-; \i\ \''<\''-. li'i'u ' .ir mi! o\ ih^ jii,-!'' i;i t!ic 
 
 "'1' !. 'I h--'- '"j)- ': >.i .. Iiar.il. 'I til' ' Iritii i>; r\- 
 
 Irii.j' i li' : i/.'iii; ;!! > " '. 1 ; 11. II ;;-, aaii iia- afti^l in-.i'.;- 
 
 1 ij I, .: iln I H'ji- . i i;_' -1' ipji .' >n!l'-. i:iiii-li ri'-'-iiKi.ip.i . 
 
 1 r-.- (*. I'c.i'i V wm-.i : '.\v<. i':>':''- 1 !>v <!!i hi.:' ! n '' K-^
 
 CU4 A JOURNAL OK TRAM::L& iN 
 
 pushes along so dexterously, as to cut the whole series ot 
 loops for several yards, at one thrust, without piercing the 
 cloth, unless a knot or other obstacle turns his instrument 
 aside. This operation being repeated along every thread 
 in the whole breaddi of the piece, a shag is at length rais- 
 ed over the whole surfac e. But it would be very rough 
 and inelesiant, if left in this state. To remove its rough- 
 ness, the whole piece is made to pass, rather slowly, over a 
 red hot iron c\ Under, and in absolute contact with it : and 
 during the whole operation, the iron is maintained at a 
 red heat, by the aid of a furnace. I would not assert a 
 thing seemingly so incredible, had T not witnessed the 
 process ; and my astonishment was not less than your in- 
 credulity will be, provided the fact be new to you. This 
 operation is not conllned to the velvets. Most of the cot- 
 ton goods are singed in llie stinie manner, to smooth them 
 for the final finishinfr ; and tiny assm'ed me (what indeed 
 a])pears scarcely credible^ that the finest muslins were 
 treated in the same way. 
 
 It may perhaps assist us, in accou)\!ing for this very sin- 
 gular fact, if we remember, tliat all fibrous substances arc 
 very bad coniiurtors oi heat, and cotton is among the 
 worst. Air is a siill worse conductor of heat. The finer 
 the fibrous snl)stances are. or \n other word'^, the more air 
 they contain between their fibres, tlie slower will heat make 
 its way through them. TSow th'^^c villous substances are 
 presented to the hot hon, entirely covered with minute 
 and Ions projecting fibres. Th'^ first contact converts 
 the.,e fibres into charcoal, and t:i:s sul)stance, especially 
 when very dry, 'as it necessarily is in the ])resent casc^j is 
 absolutely one of th(-' worst CvMi'lriCtors of heat know n. 
 Thus, a thin laye* of vfry dry ciK-u'co;-*!. i^, by tii" contac'
 
 IM.I.ANri, HOLLAND ANLl >(. 1L\NU 
 
 It'. 
 
 uilliliu ln>I iii'ii, in>-t.iritl_\ iiitri[)i>'-iHi Ixlw tfii tin ii"ii;iiul 
 tlir -iiii: : ai! i, all tlicx" citu^rs coiiriiiriiij. ili.' -[iiii. >lur- 
 iii_' till' -iioit time that it i> cxjid^-ril, i>'iiiaiiis uiihnii. I 
 II'-. il nut ^av . that il it \vcif to inii.iin ^tatimiary a imaiKiit 
 It wuiiM be i!< >tro\til : as it i-, iii'u [lortinn-- ct' stuli' air 
 t\cT\ I;i>iaiit ci.iniii'i in cniiiaiM uilh ihf luT !!;M!. ami no 
 oiif ptali'iii r.|iiaii|s l,,n'_' riitnijh to \)r inpntci. 
 
 'liif UfW I furiNS di lilcachiii'j i> wow i'\tiMisi\ . 1\ iiitlM- 
 iiii'i li at ^la!l(hl>t'I. aiiii h i^. I hi'h<'M', !icari\ sii')\ i i tc. ! 
 tla- fl'i. I ii<' I'll arhiii'j. wliiili ummI |o .'(HU[>v imuith^, i- 
 II' 'W [a i I'll aiT'l iij a li'W (ia\ >-. 
 
 .Man'jai. !>'. siiljihurif arid. \\;\\> r. aii:l iaiii!iinii sdi. n'f. 
 ;,la<i'i| ill 1 iri!'- Icadiai sjilU. liratnl l)\ st''aiii. \ \t r\' miI- 
 i "-alii! J iiinl r.a I i>si\ i" ;^a>' rises, w hicii is iiiailr t'l p iss in- 
 m u at'-i-. ha\ iii'j ahiiiiiiaiicr dt' limt' siisp, lulid in it: ih" 
 !iiii<j (i)ni!'a;si's tni' L'as. ainl |iroihiia'-> uilh it the hlrarhinj 
 ..1 1|_'. iiil'i a s.,!ii;iMn mI' u hich the lThoiIs an' phiirji ,|. and '' 
 I A .1:1 !' ; 111! u ii'i v^liit I ipidiis' the <ai!iiur is di-idiai 'jrd. 
 " ;' \\i .ik ai ;! is iisualK added to liheiate the hieachiii'/ 
 jil iia iiile. This liielUMil III hleaeinilL; is a disC.i\e|\ i\\ 
 
 iii'Hlej M I It. :i!'st! ', . and u h'-ii \ "U cai^idi 1 lii.u ,ill t!n' ( 'i!- 
 iMiied cuttMn M'ili- nnist hi liist heaeh''! hi Inri' ihe\ ean 
 
 hi' d\ I'd. MM Will si e ,ii ii||. r I hi "1 i-it illlje a I inie III th<' 
 
 .oeii\ii\. I i;.' s.e.iii'_' |s in iiiiie. i.,r ihe mat. iiaU ai' 
 .nuri' ri.-li\ ih.iii ih'i-'' 1 nipluM'd in thi nld ua\. 
 
 'I h'- ni.M hinei \ uh'a'i I s.^a n-"d ,U M.inian -'ri. enn- 
 -:-! 'i 111 a \. ..i-l I. III. id. sh,.|ii .| \.;etK 'Ik'- a cininMa 
 e.ijiiHi si ill , \', iiii .1 1 1 rill \ I 1 111 ek. \'. : M h |i 1 -I'd iiit'i ;. 
 sal nail in:iii'j sl.u l.ni linn , 1 , aia ' . I in w ,!. |- : the leader . 
 \ ' -SI I, III, 'I ' d '.'. i?h I;!' .ene. II :|ii i-.I -. 1- li V'.l )!i nr
 
 106 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 sonry, immodiately over a cast iron vessel, also lixed in 
 the same manner, and containing water, which is made to 
 boil by a fire in a small furnace beneath. The heat of boil- 
 ing water is sufficient to evolve the gas, v/hich is of a yel- 
 lowish green colour, and is not only very suffocating, but 
 eminently deadly. Although, in its gaseous state, it will 
 bleach, it cannot be used, because it would destroy the 
 workmen. It will combine with water, and then, espe- 
 cially if the water be warmed, it bleaches with very great 
 energy; in small quantities it may be used in this manner 
 witli advantage, and will ver}' speedily whiten any article 
 of linen or cotton, or a tarnished print, but without affect- 
 ing the printer's ink ; it requires, however, alternate im- 
 mersions in the bleaching liquor, and in a weak ley. 
 When the bleaching principle is combined with lime, it 
 becomes perfectly manageable, and ceases to be noxious 
 to the workmen. It may even be coaibined with dry 
 slacked lime, and transported about the country. When 
 this drug is dissolved in water, and mixed with a little ma- 
 rine acid, it immediately becomes active, and if used alter- 
 nately with ley, imparts a perfect whiteness. This elegant 
 process succeeds equally well in cloudy as in fme weather, 
 and it restores to agriculture, extensive bleach fields. ]n 
 point of principle, it is \ery nearly assimilated to the old 
 process ; in both, the colouring matter is by oxigen render- 
 ed soluble in alkali, and this is the reason why, in both, it 
 is necessary to apply this active aucnt. 
 
 A great deal of American sumac is u<rd here in d\ing. 
 I learned in one of the dye-houses that the Vjnericaiis give 
 themselves unnecessary trouble in grinding this article, and 
 that it is <j\nte as us^'ful in tlif st;ile of leaves, merely dried 
 ynd |)acked in that <-c>n()it;n.,. rioSablv th.ero may 1*
 
 KNiILAM), HOLLAND AM) cioTLAM*. ; O; 
 
 A) miK li -iaMii;: ill rrtii:ht, in coiisimjikmhc ut L'liuiim.;. as 
 tu pay U>r tliat o[)frali"n Tlif iiiaimtaitoii.s In rr arc 
 \ir\ runiifri)iis, ami womli-rlullv ('xtfiisi\c. Suiui- ol iti( lu 
 emplMV twelve liiimiri'ii pcujilf, luitwithst.nulin'^ llifapjili- 
 catiMii (il tlif >tt ,1111 fiii;iin', a>. a iiio\ iiiLT [("Utr. in a'/ii'a' 
 iniiltitadr ol the i)ruc't'>MS. Tlir ((innn y I'c.r nianv iiiilo> 
 .irnin'! M iin'lif<t> r, is trilmiary lo tlu' jn-at tMialili.-linuiits. 
 >[)iniiinL', \V(a\illL^ and ullicr iJiclimiiiary ojicialioiis. ar< 
 pt I !>>i III" il ill tin- siil.i'jtN ,111(1 ciittaiirs, aii.l llif lal)ric> aic 
 i)i' 11. In :i;tM tiiuii to li.' Hiu^Iitil. While I u,is ualkiii^ 
 Willi -"iiii' cI iii\ ^la^M' coiiijiaiiioiiN tlir<iii;:li a \i|!a'je near 
 \\ irriiij:iii]. ,i -lim'.er ciii-ni u> to -< . k ^li'lici jn ih.- eot- 
 aj' ^. ;tlli| we iMiiii.i I IK' jieojile eiiljiloN i il ill Illl^ lliaillier : 
 lii' 11 a|)j.iai,iiiee u a^ ileal, eliei ih;I. ,uiii edml'oi table. 
 
 I i;t iioiiviN well- iH' It. altiioiii:li viii,!!] [luiMiiiL's of oiu 
 
 NTS, \>ilUe vva^lirii ,in,i ( |e,ill uililili: tin' people \\llO 
 
 A, ;, ,11 ui'ik .ii till ir ^pialil<^ .iii'! Iooiiin. \\<ir Tpiils dii--s- 
 r,!. i;,-! I \^ .iv Ion i!,!\ >irin k w iili the e:\ iliix iiinl dt h i enei 
 
 -ir '.'.li 111 ii,' O -['11 rji and Ill.tlllH f". r\arl!\ Ilk'' '-'lue nl 
 
 ii,'-e jd'iiii uiiid'iiti iMli'd l.tiLlli-'li \eoiiiaiii_v. uiiom we of- 
 a^io' a!l\ >t 1 ill Nnieiii'a. 
 
 ^Kl/K II "T M \\( lir- I i i: 
 
 'klii.riii -I. r i- Iniili pr!!ieip,il!\ of Inick : tiie iiK.d-ri. 
 ! ;- - .lid -iM-els ;ire -p leioii- ,illd liaaiUome, Irit the ail- 
 i-'iii -!iiiiv an iiaiio\'. . and the Irii'-ii:".'- imaa. niiiio'as 
 
 . di': Hid wi'll -Ulo'.,i'. It (.iji: li!;v I'.'lMli'l'iill- eilMK 111'-. 
 
 '. - :ia- uiiii aiif ,i!id hi' lai'v ii>!i; .;! m- : it i lupji'ys a 
 
 .1 put oi ;i p..j)iiiaiioii ol rmiii 1 :j',!\ I'l niai l\ liionvami 
 
 uhaliil I'll-. Ill iiMliii! '.I'liii inj e,,lloii, ,i,iO i ii tliT \ a i ioa^ iiil- 
 
 '. --I - eomi, 111 d w iih tiii^. Tin tow II -land- on a pi lin. 
 
 ' ': >- ;: -aia!; ;: r- Mil! ;:;':.' 1m:'l''i-1i i. '\ h" j ;'''
 
 108 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 areat conveniences to it- manufiotur''i5 eitablis'irapnts. - 
 The names of these rivers are the Irwell, the Medlockj 
 and the Irk. The manufartiirers, who are of both sexes, 
 and of all ages, appear generaiiy pale, thin, and deficient 
 in muscular vigour. The fine fibres of the cotton irritate 
 their lungs ; and the high temperature necessary in most of 
 their processes, together with constant confinement in hot 
 rooms, and, more than all, the debauched lives which too 
 many of them lead, make tliern, at best, but an imbecile 
 people. 
 
 The wages of the labouring manufacturers are high, at 
 present, but so few of them lead sober and frugal lives, 
 ^hat they are generally mere dependants on daily labour. 
 Most of the men are said to be drunkards, and the women 
 dissolute. 
 
 How different these scenes, where 
 
 " The pale-faced artitl plies the sickly trade,'' 
 
 irora our fields and forests, in w liich pure air, unconstraiu- 
 ""d motions, salubrious exhalations, and simple manners, 
 give vigour to the limbs, and a healtldul aspect to the 
 face. 
 
 1 am not, however, disposed to join those who rail at 
 nianufactmcs without informing us how we can do witliout 
 them. I am hilly persuader! of their imj^jortance to man- 
 kind, while I regret ilie jihy^ical, and, more than all, the 
 moral evils which they produce. 
 
 [/iv<M"pool is the second town in England foi' foreign 
 i-(;!niner('e, and Manchester the second for population. 
 
 To-;e viTow morniiii:' I shall lea 'e this town for the I'cak 
 of I'^-i'A.-^iare. where I mav be detained a day or tno hv 
 'l': Rjiner.'iJ curiositJC:.
 
 1N..I. \M). II'MI.VM) AM) -(Cyi ^^i,. ] ( ! / 
 
 Nl\ ctiuiiMiii'U:, >Ii. i! . iia\jij ini-iin ^ in tin- 
 
 i..>iihi I II iiKiii ilai'tiir'nvj I'l^'. M-. a:iil mH . aim. i.i U' ^'i i;.t 
 
 Willi 111'' ilil>i llinir> ,i.h1 I .;', . I ii>-, w ::i li i\ . I.li : > <-t\, TVvW . 
 
 ami ilipart i,m N i i k>lii.<'. >. iiilr I I'.ii-i .i,\ki- i.i\ w a_\ 
 alna-: liut, alllmiijli v . a! ii \ . I --liai! j" i'i''",!ii"\ i 
 's ani. la.i ] r\ Mi-|..i~i .1 ( i a.l' i;.i t 'a ]! 'ml :\ ' -la' 
 
 K'Hi'i'i-. iir.iiv Ml!''''. . 
 
 \ ,. \ i._,i()i !{^l:^ h) 'ci::: i'i: \w. 
 
 .(, ra'.l- I, 
 
 t;llii. I 
 
 ., ,/ : .. I 1,1'- i.i.as;:i. . al li\ ' 1 > ... \. 1 . : \I,.i.- 
 
 '-':. Ill lih- -!a'_M'. I.i !I,,\!m;;. 'i a' i aXlI'M!- ci aiail- 
 
 :i' -|i r a|'i I ii'ii li 111' :~i lai' '. Iii.jii i'li iiaai'i. ; i ! v.rW laii- 
 i\ ..: I 1 1' ! !-, ai.l II' a; In a.-i - : ij. i ; v. .i n, ; ai c r inr. la-i!- 
 : a'ar \ i!ia _ . ^ (,< iMi ; : i.i I !!.,,-;, a a 1.: - > a (ill -. \' lai'Ii 
 a... -Ill i;^ la ,'^in, i.|,..M ,,., ;!,r \i< ; - ^ . -I..' a.Mcal is a 
 iiM-! :.;M.' .aai. al Im', a. hriii i.; 1,. ;. ;.. 'i i,, i,^ ;,,a- 
 
 aa' _ \ ii.ia-' -. !ial la <-\ n| ila la iir i:'aa\ . ! ami li. -- 
 
 ' 1 I l.'aal \ . i la- Ii'\K II i;a > a i lai - , a.ail . - 
 
 n "I ''<] a aaii ja iui- .1 ' ''.-. Ii ^l..\.<l ...... .a m:\ 
 - a hi;!, aiai li i> a !., .'i n\ . r l' . ^!' , - \ . w ia. ii \^ , 
 '' '\'. li i.j' ii; ! i' 1 . ; I la . V. la lia i.;,-' , , ..''tia' la ':r '.-. 
 \ -1 . ' Id
 
 ilO A JOCUNAL uF rilANELS IN 
 
 When we ioi't Majichoiiter, early in the morriiiig, tiit 
 sky was cloudy, and the weather threatening. On my 
 j^-ettin;i into the coach, a .stranger accosted me very civilly, 
 and remarked that it was a fair tnornhig. I bowed as- 
 sent, ahhough I couid not comprehend how such a morn- 
 \rx2 could be considered as fair. Ikit, in the proirress ol 
 our conversation, 1 found tliat he considered every day as 
 liiij- V. hich is not rainy. L'tliis use of the word be general, 
 it indicates thai tiie freo.;;ep.t rains in this country cause 
 ilicni to assiniie a lower standard, oi Hne weather, than 
 \* ii.'it [jrevails in climates where the sun shines more con- 
 ,tanliy. 
 
 .It Stockport we crossed the Mersey, and entered 
 L heshire. The weather becoming what I had been ac- 
 (ustoined to consid.eras fair, that is, the sim really shining 
 iorth, i was induced to take a seat on the top of the coach 
 with tiie giiard. Most of the Knglhsh stage coaches travel 
 with a guard. lie is armed with a blunderbuss, or more 
 conmsionly with j)isto!s, \\-l:ich arc fixed in holsters, con- 
 nected with tiie top of the coach. To tlie duty of defend- 
 ing the coach he is rarely called ; for, since the |)racticc of 
 t;av< lli:ig v.ith a euard has become general in Lnglan(i, 
 the sta.gc coaciies are seldom attaa'ked. besides ^^'iiarcHne 
 the coach, he is expected to open am! sliiit the door, and 
 aid inciise of accident, so that the coachman is never call- 
 ed uj)on to leave his seat, and the passen-jci-s arc not often 
 exposed to the danger of haviiej; the hors(\s take friL:Ii!. 
 v.ithuLil juiy one to comnuuul tlu; reiirs. Our cu.stoin in 
 Americii is \erv ba.d on thi'< point, tor tlie dri\'er !"re- 
 quently h^avrs his seat. ;i)ulthe horse.^ arc rarely lied. 
 
 '1 li;' !'.ngli,^h I'nard sii.> on a seat, elevated nce.rlv a^^ 
 hi'jh a^ the u\^ (ii il,c ci>arli. it j- nvea!l\ ^^ed en h
 
 I.. 1 I \M) AM' 
 
 .in !i ill.' r.ii.i,"..' 'i< -:i,ij >;i''(!. \ -imi: .u Ij.'wi i^ iiM'd 
 ''. ... .ilii ill iM.n iiiiMii'v -I .il. .iil'i ir. 111.-"' i\i M Iwi' !'. .J-.-i'.r 
 . - ;i)\^ I'.i. ,11,'i .:s I 111' \\ ';im'..' i". 1 , i|ii.n.:nl '. i.;i -i .1 !i. . ^ I lit 
 
 ji.nr. !- .-.-.i,!.' Willi I'l'li- il'iwv, ^ III,: |p|'I .11 ll,'- ii.iu- 
 
 :_>!- .>'i 11! \ r 11 rii'i! c'.i liii' 1(1. . 1.1 i.ii>\. ,r-. , l,.i\il- 
 '..\ ! i)_'i-ii M.i,.'-. ..\ 111'! ilii' \ uv i; I ,l>|i -II 1;. liiiiilji :' 
 
 '. ill',. l_i is: liir l;l-i:!.' ..i' 111. r.'.li'il'V \'. lllcll \'. ( Jill -.u 
 
 . '. !; .iii!ii\ ; ' \;;;. r;' 1 -;'_'-. I;: iIm [ ' 'v .-..r.. i- 
 
 : . , ' i, . .!i'- ail! ... .' , 1 - l,\i ,i iij.. '.1 
 
 .. ii :,. \\ I , . . w .; !,. I ;i ."' \ i:!'. :a lu: '1, ' ' - . i;> J -. :.M'l 
 
 I';- I'll';. .Ill- \' :. , i'lil- '1. ,. 'Ml! il !.,'. .:.' ;.m!i'- !i 1 li-v 
 
 - I- i!:-l.i:i;l\ \Vi.li-i' .; .Ijl'l rll ill il. 'I ii" .,, I-...:!!!; '.lilnii-i 
 
 ' I. ..'. . Mi,.: .:: .' iiiiv. w nil.;.-. !,.'!i_ .J .!i ill I ... i 1,1'.. !i ; 
 
 1 -\ .11.' I 1 r. .Ill] 'ii; :i! i\ . j \ 1 . . . :i! < .1 i _ !u . \ ^ : !,..-... 
 
 in; ' |ii;i;'ii..|- u ;l!; ;. Ill I III- \ I i. 
 
 '1 !,. '-i,:.! '1 il.. 1 (- .. ii'il.lll . > I .; i.N iii ' -' |-'> ..'..;- ; I 
 
 . .!. !- r '. 1 1 .-; lip 1- ;- iii Ii li. ii;.-t i.i-. i .i' I ..il- :- .!!.. 'I.; . iiic 
 
 .: iiir _ I . i. !! : 1 . \ . 1 \ ! \' . 1;; \ .. I -.. i-lM \ ll\ r I.mI.-^ : il 
 '-il"l 111 .'--- l|-\ t.i : M-i 1- ' I'li- ii ill. lii-l.llirr Im- lllil-lv 
 
 .ml. >. r.ii i\.:-\ I i',',.!. Il 11. .'1- 111;. 1 Ii |],i!l-^ li..' ^iiiii I.: 
 
 -i\l.. !1.|' i- U-Iliii-, 'iN.Ii. 'I lli> l.i\ j. il I \ ii.ilii-. llliil 
 
 \ Mil 111 ,ni~. Il . 'Ml I -. I,, 'ill II' 1 I -I I ill .-. .i.iii 1 \ . ,iii. i ii-.ir I if !:i ill.. 
 
 il..'l'.'!l! 111. ...1. Ii-il.i!l -. |,,i\ mi. ll!ii I .ii\ ill, 111 li.c I :- 
 
 ti\l'-. 
 
 Ill i.i.i- ]ii--,i-i- ;.-|.i :i ciii-iii-i- 1,1 ( 'i"-iiji ' . w I- I ,.,|i' 
 
 fiii"''-:ii I)i-1. \ .iii'l s,,:,ii- i,iii. r h-i I'li-i I. I .li.l'' vill.,-.s. 
 
 i";ii' jii il,. ip ,:]% ..I il riii|.- |. nil -11 . "'m.i: .1 si,,!,,., Iml li.u - 
 
 I I iiii.i 1-1. Mil .ii'iM' .111" .ir.i.n .-. \\ .- il .i\ I iji .1 
 
 . li, :--: I ' 11.;: . ;,r'i-j -' .- i.l' ii r.ni.il. w i.i' li 
 
 ' I ' i; -M\ 11 ! \ li. I -. s.
 
 ll^ ,t JOUnXAl. OF TRAVELS IX 
 
 '.vere passing on the canal, and in one place, we saw it 
 ':ro.ss a river on arches. 
 
 Hills of great heiglit and extent, were all around us, and 
 Perbyshire with its mountains was immediately on our 
 left. A few jrroves, planted by the present generation, 
 ./ud a few fine pastures appeared, here and there, on the 
 fiills, but ihey were generally very rude and barren, cover- 
 ed, for tlie most part, with a kind of brown heath, so thick 
 and dark, that they apjjcared as if the f-re had passed 
 4ver tliem; you can conceive of nothing more desolate 
 rhan the a->pect of these liills ibr miles. It is to be presum- 
 i.'d lliat Dr. .Tohr,; on never travelled here, or he would not 
 i'lrive discovcved so iujich s.Jeea at the nakedness oi' the 
 Scottish moMOtai:;?. 
 
 'I'hc Villi!.:.; anioiiq tli'.so Iilll-i were, wiili few cxctMi- 
 fHon;-, fertile, ;inu. in msuiy iplaces, the heights wen^ all 
 Y,i;ite \\ilh heaps of lime, phu'ed on tiiem as a maiuirc. 
 l.'iu' vo;i([s wccc gvMicraliy good, but, !br a tew miles along 
 i;ecan;i.L th'^y vi're indinVrciU. '"letu-een eiiyht and nine 
 ,p"cloek; ve ,::ri-,ed at Kiixtoii, whicli is Just witlnn the 
 :'i,i(i'5 of S^ibys'iire, at the li-n di'^uiiice oi'tweuty two and 
 ,1 ii dfji'iK-'s frwi;! Asancl::v'er. 
 
 lAl'i !V;KJN to 'iUD T'l'AK. 
 
 ] iiidii'g tn:'-f j'u.vton wouli! bi> nil advantageous point ol 
 li'parture, in my conten^.platc d txcursion to tlie Peak of 
 Dcibyshire, I (iejjosited my bi'.g.'ia'ii' at the inn. relin(iuish- 
 '.'! my srat in the stau*', w iiich wa-; uoing forward to Derby, 
 ':!0U:it(>!; a i.ofS'.;rit ten o"cio''k in the morning", and set ibr- 
 \vai(i, ':n i iiU:" jouriiey froi;i v/liich I expected nuich grat- 
 iriCatiou. 1 li'iui l(!n<j v. ishcd to explore some of tlios*; dark 
 jecesses. where llu' (.'reator has hidden the treasures o'.'
 
 :iio inirpiM! uiii'_''li>iii. ail 1 tu >ri'. u.lii u\\ nwii f\fv, tir 
 
 ., ! , . 1 ii;. lit 1 1 -I ,,;,.. I'l.- j::. sit lull nl' s],:;.. ,;i,:! ci \ M.ll-- 
 :ni., ili'- i:;iniiMl ^lair '! lli' iili I.i'lir vri;i-. 
 
 I IkhI til'" ;iil\:iiii.i'j''' ''I a il<liL'''.nul ii.i\. ail! v.!;''! an 
 I ,n)i'\ iioiinaiili Mil. h> Itiii'j lia- L ,:ii\ int. i<'-.Iii,'_' ti;i;;_'- 
 wliK-'ii I mi jilt Ini.i in ill:' iniiu-.. I (iaiiai.Mi'''>l my --lii-,, ;. 
 |iimiM-\. \\\ i.ia'l ua^(lVl|a \riy liiil_\ r. i!,;i;i \ . aii' ' a;- 
 \i r iiavMiiL' li.c' ii iiuli t i| I'j'uI'kM. lla- lull- In- Mi.a' ai"!-- 
 l'i'',|aiMi!. vi.'i'p ;i;i,l li,l'i\\ 'I in- \\ a\ w a< ri; calMaN. \^ ma- 
 il;.' Ill -|iiiaU. arm, an lia' lnii-. i..'-t ni \\'ii..-ii w.-ro \'>< 
 Nil , j, til ailiait if a liiii ' t a-' i i,i. ia (.,' \i\ .rr tlir |,a:.') 
 Icil nil' iilmi': tlp'riia' (i| a jU' rijiirc. w iilra liiraa 1 ni.' 
 -iili' (if a (!'' ji jair Ix ts\ ! '11 [\\ '< iii"'aa; (i'l- : a l''ia -. i>- 
 araii'd nil irum t!a \ nji' <! iiii-~ al ii apt \ alji'i . \\ liic!i n\ a > 
 mil liiiiiiln (1 ami lill\ ! i i v. m li;naii r.l a ! lir i,. ai. i \\ r.';:;.! 
 il- \v:i\ all in.: i h t 'u i a 1 In- mmiiii.iii!-. ], . a a ai ii-:,aaa'. 
 
 1 'iiM'i n iilir.i 'iiai^vM!!. a i 'ai^iaM nl,;,' \ ;l:;';i' i,i a 
 I liai iiiin J \ . a . i \\ a- a -a mi:- li I ! i - . in t i.;> ';! ; , i 
 'iM Ii. a i; a aii'i''t i;i ' mMii ' rina. li . in laa ; a'. --T'. a: ion. 
 ii \\a- !m. ; m i'; ' itiri ill' la ilii' I'l'ii,'.' , ;,;ii r'::.ni\. and 
 jauim--: 1 1 -ia \ IS I' 111 la'. m i; r an i- ; a -I: laa :; -. 
 
 Tin- ( anirii. w a;; all ii:i hn;:-' ^ in tin' l.i'^-. a. an-i iu- 
 
 ' ! ana -! 
 
 \ 1 \ . ' -v. '.. ti.. (iiaatrs i ; 'a' v. ( i : :,I ;i 
 
 1 : |i' cI -u a;-' v, 1 ii ' :i- ' ! I ai .i jaii ! iv'al ii 
 
 I' ' aa , !. aa' I. 1 a; ma :i' ' . ! 1 am I : a :i f'li". w I 1 ! 
 
 III'' mil iinia \- I a..-.aaiil Im \m;,! 'I'ii!' -- 
 
 ,^ > !'. I . mnai ina- ;..a'a - la '.ir c iialr\ |m n|iir. lin - - 
 
 : ' ! --ii i rl.alir-. .iiai J' am' to alli":-! the 1,; l . 
 
 la,, r- a imi \\ i',.! -i\ '-i ,] m' t ai in. a a' i : .:,'', 
 
 : . aijini;. 'I'ia'\ -; ,i\- iiii l.iia i. .:> w ij*
 
 U4 A JOURX.SL or TRAVKLS li,\- 
 
 tiiaiiy peculiarities ofpi-oiiunciation, and with a consiclera- 
 bie number of words which we never hear in America. 
 Their dret>.s was (juite as decent as tliat worn on similar 
 occasions by the same class ot" peojjlc with us, and their 
 iDanners inciicated cheert'ulaess and contentment. I 
 bad never seen any tiling in my own country resembling 
 the scenery whicii now surroimded me. Lol'ty hills, or 
 rather mountaiiss, ap]>eaied on every side, sloping with 
 an ascent ratiier gentle tiian steep. They were barren, 
 rude, and (hvary, v/idiout a single shrub or tree, aiid divi- 
 ded to the very summits by enclosures. They were tree 
 from rocks, no hedges wt're to be s(~en, but, ever} 
 where, stone wails precisely like those which are so com- 
 nion in New-Mngland. Lim(;stonc is universally the ma- 
 terial of tlie j'erices and Louses ; it is dug out of these hillsj 
 which, with a vast tract of country around, aoipear to be 
 Ibunded upon tb.is ba^is. After being buir.ed, it is used as 
 a nmnur(~, ant! many ottlie hills which 1 passed, were 
 covered with it. On examining the fences, rocks and 
 stones of the ro.ul, ihe limestone appeared universally id- 
 led with sIk'Us of marine origin. These shells are perfect- 
 ly distinct, and lie b/. bedded in the solid liaie stone, so 
 that v,l;!'n one is knocked out, a perfect eopy of its tbrm 
 is hM't in the cavity. :\ear tlio Peak the bills wer,' e\ er\ 
 wl;(-r(> pierced with p>i;s, wbWh. as 1 was informed by a 
 man wiio w;is dig;jna- liiiK'stone, wereh'ad mines. 
 
 1 disie.oinilcd to exi.'virie one. No person was there. 
 Theop(Mnng of t'le m;no was down a j)i'rpe:ulirular cavi- 
 tv, waiie-l up liJve a well, through which the people, imple- 
 ments, and ore are convex* d in luickets, woikod by ma- 
 chiiier\. A vast in ap of rubbish was l\iiiff around the 
 fnouih of the n'ine. .iNiounun;;' mv horse aaain. 1 soon
 
 FN..I. Wi), HM(,[. \Nn \M) -'.111 \Nt>. 
 
 iiii\<ii :ii ill-- siiiiimil <>\ .1 liill. (ii'Wii u liM-li, ,!. I (l.^rniil- 
 nl. an t-Nt. ii>i\f \ ,il!i'\ . nil 'jinn ami li-i lilr. |mi im i| a --iii- 
 [iii-iii'i ami iiiitTi -iii|i/ ,-,,iiiia>i lo the niilr -fi-m i \ mi 
 wiiii ii I had mivv iiini' cl iii\ liack. I luiiii-.i ilu- \allr\- 
 ii'H li\ til.- ii>iial ri'a-!. Itiit \)\ <n\i- laitln-r ca^I : llii^ " im 
 111'' a \ ii-u ci' the \ i!!a.'!- (.1 ! li|i'- (111 II I \ I i. JM, w liili' ( a^- 
 d'-lMii. t!i'' '.ii-at cIimti 111 WW litirm"-. apjii-ari-ti uii niv 
 Lit. 
 
 "'-..:' i'i<- lir-t (i!);.-rt^ \v 'lii'i '-t: ir'^ im-. im < nt(-iii!i_ 
 till' \.illi\, v\a^ ail am i> ut r.>li. . ii all !iii)ki-ii WnWii. aiul 
 
 ipj lai 1 ii!l\ ti'tl I lau t'l il> I. 
 
 Ii --laaav imi urn- d ihc 
 
 Ml'Man !i!i-. Il|i.ii| lii. \ry\ ri'.- ,i| ;i j.iiL. nl innic tliail 
 
 tv, 1 iiiia.ai il ami I'au i. i-i in p. i ] n mm iilar lai'jlil. - 
 'I'ia !' 1^ mi ! ilaiii ao iima ,.\ j;. i.n.jin. It is s:iul Ic 
 liiNi lurii km.\v!i tn il|i- lliiaiaii'. iiikIii' (lie iiaim- nl 
 
 \i\ i>::!i>ili. and a a,- it- niiii^. Itoiiian '..in-, aii'i 
 
 ui. ; -;U hi\.- i;. I II l.aiml. Il^ \sa!K an- .-I In a ~tiiii.', 
 aii'i a- ill. II is ii<i sii.iir ca' lliis .!fs(-| i|aiiiii oii ila- iii-ain- 
 t.iHis. ill.- ca-l!.- iiiUs! Iia\i- !m . II > oiivirai In! wiili \asi 
 laliM.ii aial . Vj.i iis, . \t\ r.iisa'.' Iia- malrii,,U nj. liii- iik'Iiii- 
 I iiMs lr..iii l!i<- \ al!c-\ Im|ii\\. Till- cisil.' is n..\v aM-nrra- 
 f>'.- run. ai.'i i'\\i- : n am'- n. th.- \ iIKi'j.,- ul ( a.stlrtiiii.
 
 llC A JOtrr.NAL OF Tru'vVF.L-i iN' 
 
 Xo. ^ JI THE PEAK OF DEiliil SHIRE. 
 
 Castleton Tiic winding gp.te VsiUcy of Castioton and the sur- 
 rounding nionnlaiiis Ancient fosse Caftlf .Main 'i'oi- Its 
 ruins Anecdote Peculiarity of language Ciiiides Peak's 
 Hole' Description of. and adventures in it Humour of the 
 guiJe Owdin ?.Iine Miiiers 'flieir ciicerfuincr-s. iiiirdsliips 
 and dangers Speedwell Mine Subterraiu'Oiis voyage W'oi;- 
 dci'ful cavern ^p.ar.Mine Descent iiito it Pvctnrn to Buxton 
 (ieological remarks on tlie Peak of Derljy^iiin J".!il)ii;g and 
 no\viii!iM''!'!i Coritrivancc to save labuur Sii!c;:jlai' want r)f 
 curiosity. 
 
 castli:to?>. 
 
 The usual apj^roajh to C'astlcfon i^ tr.roiic'h a narrow 
 passage b(t\veon tiie mountains, cailc!' t'nc </'//;;?r^i'.s or the 
 windinrr gate, /vllljouoh I did not ciilcr tlic ^alley thioucli 
 tliis ueCilo, I visited it durino- m\ stay in C'astleton. When 
 a traveller apjjroaches the valley throuuh the Wixnf.tts, 
 lie iniGs iiiiiiNclf. the moment bei'ore he discovers the vil- 
 liee. winding down the hills. throu<2h a iiap, where rude 
 and broken rocks o\erh<uia; the road, and a little way 
 anead. sC'jm to cross tiie jiaih. ami bar it up completely. 
 \VhiIe !)! is cniir-.^ed in cor.ienspiatiiia- a scene whore every 
 hin^: is wild. I'lide and A)rb;(l((inL:. ami ali'n-ds no plea- 
 sure, oyx>.p\ ',\'om till- conti'mplation ol'grar.deur, all ot' a 
 -.'idden. tiie v.Tiley i)reak> upon his \iew, like a line scene 
 ^it ;iic iisi;,o- oi' the curtain. Ii; the nearest jiarl of the 
 ,ficT:::e. ( rist'eton a])pears at the foot of a meuntain, which 
 i,> .;! .1. ;: (Treat mmibfr that stu'round the vaik}". 
 
 r.'K form of the vidhy is that of an obtuse ellipse, and 
 ' ,'.;:!;( tc; >; th'''e or tour mil:s. Some of the nioim-
 
 KM.r \M). HniiAsn wo ^<>r\.\sn. 
 
 ..Ullv .11 .' !>.ll nil. I II It 1 1 Ills I lit' tl If 111 lllf \ 111 1. 1 lit til tilr Ml'V 
 
 tiiji, .upI tillers sliipi' liDiii tlifir Miiimiits iliiwii tlifir siilv^, 
 ii.iii ari' i-oiitiiuifil iicii.s-- tin' \,illr\. liiviitinu it inl'i i''i'- 
 I mj- !.ir In lil<. 'riir ;i|i(ir;ii:inrc dl tlir-r I'liliis is the 
 IlinsI : ;:iillintly IliMIIti fill . |l|sl wliilr (he stiT| illi's^ nl tin* 
 
 ni" :i:;la..i i N'rlinis int. i ,i liijiifl sl,,|ir. iinnu'di.itrls liclun"' 
 ill' . ! riniiiatf in tlu' |il.ii:i. In tlinsf |il,irrs tin- lii'Ms 
 -I 'III 1- u rising; up to iiii'i't \ nil. 
 
 I , : 'liir_! til" i'i;;'_ -'\ I11--1:' at tlir W luiii tl<, ami n 
 I'-'s < t'li'i ^miliar ii[irniiijs. du- surian- ni I'ar iii'iniilaiiis i^ 
 .liii:-! ii .' Ir.iiii I'H'ks. ami ii|iiall\ il.siitiil'' "I ircs. 
 I ii' 'I. .Ii,.,! 1,1 iihaiMi.iiiiv III u 111'! I 1 am ii' iv\' sji- .ikiiiL' , 
 -.siliiali ih'- ii>' ill lliis ihutli-i 11 [Mit 111' I )i rliv -liif. is 
 " '!l"i! t;a- !' is uf I >' r!i\sliiir. || i, ;i r.aiiMnai iiiisiakc 
 
 !i. sii'l"' ' ile'l liM V I in. "11. Iii'jli III. iiiitimi , 111 111111/ 
 ill! - ; a ilr. in \\ a \ nl I lls;!i;i-liilll. 
 
 ilaiiDiav .il'Hij till' villi's, ami mi .iin! mar tin' tnjis nl'ilir 
 
 1:. I . II-. iv a lii'i ji 1..S.,.' \\nii .1 iaiii|iail, i\li iaiiiij si\- 
 
 -: it is s.ml I'M ii III ri.'ss lUc \alli \.aml it may 
 
 ir.i il\ |i' iai-l\ 111. ' -liii'j "11 t'l til'- ra-tli : it is iiilrr- 
 
 ' ! \'\ rli '-ai- 111 till- iii.imiiam<. ,imi it- mijiii icmaiiis 
 
 til tills iiai'' iha 1 rtaii: : in all jn 1 ilialiilil \ it was a luilitaiy 
 
 \'. 1 1 1 k . 
 
 \iai;ni I tiim wlm n sdikrs mir \i\\ a'.' ; ' 'aliA' 111 this 
 . -'iiAi \. I- In nnm'ii i' nl' -ln'ji. Imis, ^ aini Marlv 
 ' I" !'. \\'.\i< ii ai'- s. ,.;i '_ iM/iii'j mi til' - i|- s 1 .1 till' niiiim- 
 ! Mil-. 1 Mil win ii til- \ ail -M sli'i|i ill. it ill'- .illimals srcm 
 ratliri i.i a.lli. ;.' d, li,.- liill- li\ iIh :i -nlr-, liiaii tn li'- 
 stamiiii; "11 til' ii ! . t. 'I In s||i i-|i ,11, tl..' must ,t'\\i iiim'- 
 "is ami jii r-i \ 1 1 1 in . in -i i/in mimii !iii'-i- -Ii r|i i|< rlix i 
 Ii' -. a ill I II \\ 1- rmi"!!-. t'l iil'^i i\i- liMW. Ill Uli' Imij jil" 
 - "1 liiii". lias li I'l li\ 1 ii-tan' 111' i-lii;-'. loriip <i a -11.--
 
 lis A JOrr.XAL OF TRW ELS IvN 
 
 cession ol parallel paths, runuinir lorind the hills in thk. 
 manner of a belt, and continued at tlio distance of two or 
 three feet, quite to their tops; so as, on the whole, to form 
 a tolerably regular succession of steps. The same thing 
 had been effected by the larger cattle, where the hills 
 were less steej. 
 
 Immediately after 30U have discovered llie valley when 
 entering it by the W'innetts, you perceive 'Mcuii Tor. very 
 near on the 1= ft. 
 
 This a;opellntion is of Sa.von origin. 
 
 This mountain has a singular appearance. It is sup- 
 posed, that at some period ot' remote antiquity, it divided, 
 probably ail on a siuldeu, with a lissure, beginning at the 
 summit, and proceeding to the bottom, in a direction near- 
 
 IV pc'i iU'iidicular, cind iliut thus, th<- froiU of tlic iiiour.taia 
 fell liown into the valley, overwhehning every thing !.h low 
 in ils ruins. This coiichision is I'ouaded on the fact iiiiil 
 the side of the moinUain next to the valley exhibits a per- 
 peufjicular section of bare rock and earth, exposing all the 
 strata, with great regularity, and, for a long ^vay below 
 the mountains, its ruins are to be seen lying in va.st hea])s. 
 L'ndcr these ruins, at the depth of three hunth'ed feet, 
 trees, in a j)erfe;-t state of preservation, have been duL' nj> 
 by the nnners : tliere can be little doubt that th(\\ were 
 l)uried at the time when the side of tiie mountain fc'll. And 
 to this mom(Mit, wiieiiever severe frosts, heavy rains and 
 violent winds occur, the moiiutain, in the I'orcible laii- 
 truage of the villagi^ miners, shirt n; : and new (|nautities 
 oi' d'-coinposed I'ock and eaith fall i;;to the valley, ilence 
 its very e\pri'>.'i\t> appellation o\' //ic Kliircrimr luointtain. 
 
 An old i!i;i;i, beloii'jii!',' to the villai-e. told n:e that as a 
 ;.;irlvof !' Mt'e;u"n v.cr-,' vi)iir::i;!<s. cue (lav. on :Maii'. Tor.
 
 l.\i.I..\NL>. IIi'l.I.AM) WD ^1 > : I, >.MI. 
 
 J iw 
 
 lil<- h.irr uliicil tlh\\M'l>' pillMllll'.'. iniii'_ .'lov. h- urL'rd 
 
 l)\ u\r iKi'j-. IrajM il (liiuu tilt' lifinfiniuiiN [nfcijiicf : the 
 t'. _'> \\ :'. {"> inuili -!;ini 11' It I.I liill.iw . .iiiti .ill w en- (ia^li- 
 lii'. pi ri .. I h.i'i ;i jMir III l:1i'V(>."' said tli'' old 
 iiia.ii iiiaiii' ii! ill'- ^kia "I tlial liaic" Tin. iciji ..i' Nlaiu 
 Tnr i- '--"III il I' I lir iliiitcfii liaiiiin il Icrt ali^iMi tiic lr\ii 
 u! !!, \,.Ilry. 
 
 i ill' I'liar iiiDMiUaiu^ a^ Wi'.l a> Mam Tur ai ' kim'A;: 
 'i\ ]',a ;' ! ! II !;:i:;;r-. 
 
 I ;:' I'M. la. '11 uli'ia; 1 lia\r ni^! im lUn'ia'il. hail nil" pf- 
 
 \:\\ <] '\pr''--i"!i w liirli I in a I'. I l'r>''|ii' iii!\ :n ( a^tli - 
 
 l'!-t' ad "I '<a\inu I"i''l -~iiiii an kIiC 'i/i-!t< Uil< la !'!. 
 
 .'. 1 ;! , -a\ I'll siaii an niir /;/ / ,/r'v ihis I'l'M. This i- 
 ;!' ia-tai:rc aiai'ii'j \.i\ iiiai;". p' raliiiiii--- <i|' laii'ju:! J'' 
 ,\ 111' a ! i.!)N''i \ I '1 aaaiM'.' lia- p^a- :.i!r\ nl' I ). I 'a\ ^liii r. 1 
 Iiad Ii'ju .". rr ii'i -'a'i'ii:^ ';:;'!ir':i'\ la aii' ii'.'^Iaiiii:ii ; tlaiii. 
 
 ,1 111' \ 
 
 ii la ; \'i' 
 
 < ;-'a''>l 1- .;. aaaai-l'-'J ''!' \llla_r. |,i't lln' :;i-i'ai 
 a!a'>i 1 "I Mran r;- \^l,.l '-.ja -laa; ';. M -"Tl t" i:. ;'n rarinl 
 !i\ tl:.- 1 ir!"-;r!'-> u! ila- I'l a'-., r ; ;.! it :.> Miaimaiii a \<TV 
 'iMiil iiiii. l.iii'U 11 i)\ til'' iiaai'- "! ill'' ( ''i.-'^'-l:iii. \l ;hN 
 i; '1,-. I "'a'aia'd \--v\ \< ii r .'aaa a;' . v. ad' ii''! la !''-v^arv i>\ 
 a li ;i' "! iwi !\'' 111''' ;;(>in iai'.t"a. aii'l ,ilt i' liiaia la pu- 
 pa r. i I> M!r\ 1 \ 1 1; \'.Ml!i;' I'-. <.; ;lir N a!li'\ . 
 
 1: l< 111 -I lln' li -pps ', all' \ 111 \ !)\ --iiiia. w la I '' a. _' liaa.S 
 - ' ' . . > 1" ,id 1 11' >:i .aia; ai- tl' j.i i. ! \ . a i i ! I" i' la w lli<' al- 
 . .' ii .!- I'! I'-p' lai: pi' a^all - ; l-ai '." r..a;i-i 1. \<- i--, 
 'a::' -'a d.l lu.'-I 'idiaaa-'- l! n' li- -i i"! ^ "t I'l i dii la! ri\ria-, 
 a'l'l Ml 1.1 id', till- w "a. !' I - w li'iii a ' ; ''aid amid-; il>" n ,i I. - 
 '.la': I" mc'--~ iia ^'i''"'
 
 120 A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS IN' 
 
 There are guides who make it their business to conduct 
 strauiiers into these scenes : and there is a distinct guide 
 for each curiosity. 
 
 THE PEAK S HOLE. 
 
 Having procured the jiro[)er guide, I went first to see 
 
 the famous Peak's liole. As we approach.ed this wonder- 
 ful cavc'ii; we crossed a bridge over a rivulet, which is- 
 sues u'';!!! ilio luoutl! of the cave ;, this mouth is at the hot- 
 tQiii of a pD jicndiculei.- rock, that Ibrms part of the front 
 of iiie nioj'utaiii. The foriu of ihis |>art of the mountain 
 is like ti'.at oi a bo'ikset on end. and half opened, the brick 
 Oi'ilie b:_>ok being iVo'u the ob-ervcr. Near the angle is 
 liH' n;out'ii oftlie ^a^en. .\s we proceeded into the fis- 
 s;;!.:, i loiiivod np these rorky walls, and saw the old castle 
 at a -i'ld}' height, ap.parenllv threatening to i'ail. The 
 f^nide |:)oiiited out seveial veins of lead. The entrance 
 ii;i<j the cavern jjas^-es close uiuler the rin'ht side; of the two 
 |;rec![)ices, whicli ine( ting at an acute angle, form the iis- 
 sure in tl'o n^.ountain. fir!j)ressions of sul)liin!ty are ])ro- 
 duc( d by lookUiH' iip this pi'e;'ij)ic(- of two huuih-cd and fif- 
 t\ feet, perpeiidiculai height, and a kind of hori'or is ad- 
 ded to tlic place in' lannerous jaf'kdaws, which ijuild llnnr 
 nests in the cievices, and I'ual iti tliev-- inaecessilile cliffs a 
 secure rets-ejit; they were contiiiii'dly ilyinir, in a black 
 cloud, around (Ik- rocks, and disturbiiijr the air with tlieir 
 croaking. These rocks are lime stone, fdled uii!i niarine 
 exnvia'. We now <'ntered iJie ca\ern. It opens with a 
 grand arcli. almost mathematically regulnr, but ilu; a!)ut- 
 jiienl on the left h considei'ably lower than that on llie 
 }\ji\i\. '] his ai-ch is one hiaidred and twentv I'eet wide;, 
 and seve;it\- leei i:ii,d), reckoning froni thele\e! o.r the ^iji;!.
 
 1 ^>.l 'vNtl. Ilul I. 
 
 ; ) - < u ! 1 . V Nj > 
 
 I ; I 
 
 i,)i-n; mi I'ln ] !i. I iiilii liii- iii.il: n. I n'l '.il |mii l.i ". \\f { :.- 
 
 ttlr.l liir I'll-l CIV I'l n. \Utiill i^ (111' llUIi.il.'.l ;ill<i il'_lll> 
 I. 'It Im'.p/, ihr ,tlill I'.lllill- .i lilllc Itiu:i|il> \\'.r Klllilrl (11.1. 
 
 I \\ > ^:ir|ii 1^1 t! t" liii'l i!:i- (MM 1 11 i'ili,iliiu il. \ ii:;!iilicr 
 III jiiiMi \\ miii'ii aihl rlii!ili( .i c.mtn u'I h- rr ;i iii.iiiiil h tiii'i' 
 
 i'M ,.1(1 ,1111 1 I\\ i.lli'. .II1<1 >'iMir (il ill' lil lu f lirrc | n 111 i ii' Ml - 
 1\ ill s;ii,ill huts, sill IliT-'il ll\ llir i I II | ii 'lli 1 1 1 1 '^ iinniiitim 
 I l:i\ 'iir_r ,11 1 l\i'ii .11 ill!' nil I nl' ilii- U\^\ ciimiii. I liM.knl i);icl, 
 ullli lirliirj-. lit ;iu ' :i!iil -> ili miiii \ , iml mi,iii\i'ii v. 'lit 
 sniiiftiiii'// \ii'\ iiiurli lii^t' i'ri':,i'. 1 ills ,',i\i 111 i, un|'\ ;i 
 r.Mitiii;iiitio!i Ml till jn ,u ;iii li il iln i 11:1.1 tc. I.iiiii;-' ,,s i; 
 
 MTi'ili s iVnill lilt' li_'il. I'l' W !l''r!i I ll'M' i - ll.iw i'\r|-. 1 ||. i: jli 
 It) I'll.lli'i' mil' io SI-' liic ul,.;.' I'l il. ;i.,.i I.I IM ski' ilil.i ir- 
 .ili/.i' III 'i a sr.i ' iiiLiiii is ii\i r i;:- l;r i.'. I h;- ;ii. ii.'il liu:'.. 
 
 !i. ill: Ml !;:i|i' s;.,i ,'. ,i!iM;Pi i^ ' :l!l C :!r:i! i' n, - 1 m;:. 1 r! imiis. 
 
 aii'l ,1 n i;i.ii l.:iMi' Mill' \v,,s j'./:' i i.u'. w iii.j. ii iin i> 
 Imiii: . ,111.1 llr I,. I :iii. I' Ml \\ . '1 It lil I .111. is ;:'M';i | ',. 1 o.'l. is 
 r.ili' 1 till' /'' ,'' .'/ "/" /.'./ -.'/. 
 
 'I'l. I'l i Ml I;., r iM : ;i . s , ;., . .. , , ,:.i. ,,, ' . 111 ll~ lii- 
 . :ii il ;I Ills 1)1 I n 1 ti;i,; '1 hlx i !,.-r i ' ;i. l-\ an ,11- 
 
 w In 11' I 111 |i' IS .1 . ill, 1 . 11, \. ii'i 11 llii- 'j!i;(ii' ii; 
 
 ; 111' InI'V . I iir \'. .1 ii a .1.1 I Im, ir ;ii'i' 11.;. |. il i in I \i'!ii:ii' ii.i- 
 :ii :'aii 'Il \i-i; Ms. ;ii|ii I,] vri iir,' 1 . il,.' 'ii,!. iin i'\i'!iisi\ ,- 
 1 'I l\ .'. _' Mi I'M II li i.'l ; , ,1 |M,, ,..' ^ ; ' !i M'l'; h i ill I m.mt. 
 
 M > '^ 'lil!.' i',.a', ; " .', - M'l ,i| !' ':!,' i r In,;!' s in h, , hai'iis. 
 
 .,1 ,1 iJ.IV I- :',' . ,". Ill' illi'll .'iscIm-, : liir I'litlaMi' I.!' his 
 
 ; .,'1 il il MMiMliiiMii : lail '.', li 11 ,i!l I ! .: I ::: '' i;mi!s i.-r,,,] 
 
 i : .' 'ill '" si|]i;,,,~ I I,. , 'I I, ; lil. 
 > M I ' ' 1 I . ' . : : ; s , ! ; ' , ; . 1 i .': i !''..
 
 122 
 
 A JOt i!\AL or CUAVKLS I\ 
 
 After entering the door, tlie jiassaire became nnrruw 
 und low, and we prooerdcd, stoopiuir, till we arrived in a 
 place calletl tlie Bcil J/oitfir, (Vom sumc resemhiance be- 
 tween its form and that of a bill. 
 
 Beyond tlii.s, the cavern became aaain low and narrow, 
 {ill it was almost cIos(fd, k;u\ ing' only a small orifice of 
 uboiit tbroe f^ct diameter. Here the rivulet, whicli we had 
 fuUovved up from the mouth of the cave, spread into a lit- 
 tle lake, occupying the whole of the bottom of tlie cavern. 
 r>ut we were not stop[K'd ; there was a ferry boat all ready. 
 The bottom of it v,a> spread with clean straw, and by the 
 directi in oi' my r^u'ulo 1 i;ot into it, and lay down Hat on my 
 ba.ck. Mv (jniut; stepped into the water up to his knees, 
 and ])us1ied the boat before him tln-ough the narrow aper- 
 ture, v.iiich was merely liiHi enough to permit the boat to 
 pass, and the guide to crawl after if. It would be im])os- 
 -,iule for oui; to pass if sittii^i;' up in the boat. It required 
 no vciy viviil imaginacion, nor much familiaritv with clas- 
 -ical literature, to find in this adventure tli(> Charon, Sti/.r. 
 .md Aceriiiis ol' poetical fable. 
 
 \\<i had now au'ived in a new cavern, mncli larger and 
 mm'C majc^stie than any whicli we had yet seen. A Hood 
 ofiicht vas iV'ces.-ary to reiid(>r it all visible, for it was 
 one lumdi(;ii a'a<i twemy fc'ct liiiih. two hundred broad, and 
 i\\o handreii and fifly feel l'..i;<i. Its \va!ls wei'e lime stone, 
 idled, as b'.'fere willi :-lii'lls. ('ros^ina' the rivnh^t on step- 
 p'.ig ' {ones, v.e i;ext t'ound ourselves in a smaller cavern. 
 \'. liicli. on accouui (ii the coustae.t exudation of water fr(_ini 
 ;'i'' rii.'U is calf'd i-":^'(r lidi/r.-i House. 
 
 \ l,u'"e cax-ern, called (he fV/r/.'/re/. came next. Its ajj- 
 pe.ii'ance was i)r()uen and rud(>. ajid the lights discfnered 
 .Ml; 'Ma! ictile:;. When the 'jiiide has notic*.- tlrj.t a part.^
 
 t \ !. \M>. i-' '11 \\n \ 
 
 I . 1 : 1 1 . ! ' .' ( ' I \ : ' w It- I : ; \ ' 1 " , 1 1 " ' ; 1 - - t ; , , > c m ; , . . . i ; - 
 ' "11 1. 1 111- ji',,i\ ' I n'i' ill [[' ( ". ! -,1. '.>,!:',;( !, [Mill;; .. -,.1- 
 .1 II \ ^ir.lDU'T. il^iii I'-i'l l!" 'A Ml ~N.!' '. \\ 'ii ;i 
 
 'in p irl\ :ui i\ ! in \r..- r i . ; . ' .' ^ ;ii i-. ,.'I <'!i .i -^ ,;,.', p . 
 !^!i iiin'ii 1 1 aiiil ciMih iMii'ii I '. :,' !i'-n .:i j li i"'i i!:i' I'm. i| . .; 
 ;!ii- 'I'lit !i \ iiMii^i'Ku w lii'-'i. ,1 i:i.i;i!iii( ]'.:, w .1.^ . ;i . 
 '^ III II liii _' 'it, ,111'! -,\i :i' '- ; II- ; I n!.~. m ;i>l,mt,ii;i ' 
 ii^li^I n! Imui m \.>)ri ^. liiul'ijilii ! .\ .1 li|ii'ivti|tl 'tIi..!-. 
 W ill If (In A :iii-. ill \ ;iiii. liKi.'-. iiij 1,11 lilt ciii','- ol !!iis s, ,-iu- 
 
 .'] : I .nil iiiMii-'i'. ,1 M !/ <il 1 1 jilt :i , 'III i!ii I ' I ;' III' till < w - 
 
 ni li.-i' \ I > ,1 ;:ii:n' II i" "I li_':ii < > m \s ii.ii . "] _,\)': ;ii!,i 
 liiMI III'/ t il ri;t . ,11 l!ii-il iili ,1-. 1 ;i, 1^1' v, in i ;i; ! i,, 'I n; ill, 
 -t i-;i I. .Ill .iliin'-t jnT-',: ! i '_ii.it l!n'\ .ii''' ill .ill ;'i-'n'.'- 
 
 '! r,t\r. \'.i.i ! till' ^11 ii>-~ I,; liilii 111! c- ;iiiii I.i!i:i' |];i\i' p , i 
 
 v-l' 111 !. I ill' '" lii^,' III \ ,iiii^!n'~, In i\\ I \ I i , v\ In I! tii' \ 
 ,(! I m;, 1] iiH'l. ti' i! ,1 li'iMi'.i r I'! I II ;,! ii ,1111 ;I,.' \ ill ' ". 
 
 . !i >. ' _',iin- ii|i .1 "III it |i iNv;i..,- 1,1 ilir 
 : i.i.i ,i; I ill- ( ;i,i:ii-. I. \. ii!i c nn r li.-i ! li'jlil-. w iiicii, .it tin 
 I . ini it'-i 1 iiiiMii' I.I . III'". -; i ii ii! . I ! I II lui'"'. 
 
 W I' ti.ai In '1 I'll I" .1 !:--|':i' i:i ti:- v h 1%. r.iin il ti'r /,', ,-- 
 //'.- ' ' A' 'r. ;iin!. ;::;i-r i n -i i-ii,i;m_' "r.iii'r'Iiv i.in- iimnii<-,i 
 .n.'l ;i:i\ 1, I f. \\i- r.iiin- 'm t'p- /'n'l n-'iu h i:< . I in- In. 'I 
 ini\'. ,1-^111111,1 '-ii,ili-r |i_i|'.ri]I\ : tlinr [.;i'-;il|l .iiiI:'-' 
 \\ I I - .11 \ .I'W . ;i ii. ' 
 III Inn '.f /.;". 
 
 \ r \ s \ ,11 ii ,11- I II i' ,1 III in ,-j h' ami I n i .i ,l i : t .n l i\ ii.'i I ;ii i- 
 ]M '! ,i iii-i 111 l'\ I: .Ml- 1 1,1 II 'iI. ,iinl il> ! I \\ .i> u iiil.- u itii 
 I -I'l II 'I I I- -ii i; . It. Hi ill I-;. iW II .111! I ,ii,i,. 'i .j !, (!n u I- 
 
 ! I. 
 
 \i i' . '' w II II i i tin- i-inl : liii- iiLiii,! -uliK ri,i"i-.iii 
 v.'ilni'l : !- \\'i.ili- ! p Ml i- I". I tliii"-'i;,i luii Iniinliiii 
 
 ri-! !,; \ ! ' '. i>i 111 .11 1\ li '; ., iiii'i . 
 
 !. !ii \-.ini l! i-v,'. a r,!\. m |,L.- a In !!. caii- 
 . '/. I'l 11, I I 1 llinj. w I- Ii 1 i;n i tin' i-.i\ i in
 
 ; .M A JOURNAL OF T/lA\Ej.S IS 
 
 3Iy guide assured me that he had put pieces of bark iniu 
 u particular water four miles from this place, and had 
 found them afterwards Hoatiug down this rivulet, whence he 
 oncluded that there was a subterranean connection. He 
 was very intelligent, extremely attentive to my safety, and 
 odthough an unlettered man, had no small share of humour, 
 lie entertained nie with an account of distinguished per- 
 s()n.> who had visited the cavern in his time, among whom 
 lie named iJr. Solander, Sir Joseph Banks, and the Prince 
 of Wales. 
 
 1 inqifn-ed wl'.ether ladies ever visited the cave? He 
 rojilif (.1. ' O ves ! two ladies to one gentleman !"' 
 
 Vh, how is tliat ? Have the ladies more curiosity, or 
 more courage tlian the gentlemen?" ''I don't know; 
 f/iC ladies have a deal of ciriosify /" 
 
 I then asked him whether he was afraid the French 
 would come? He answered, ^'- No ; but 1 wish I had Bo- 
 naparte in ni\" power." 
 
 ' Wliat would you do with liim ?" ' I would chain him 
 at the en(i of my cavern, and keep him for a sight ; 1 
 >.hou!(i then have visitors enough." 
 
 Vv"e novi' re!rar( ;! our st(>ps. I was again laid in the lit- 
 tle boat, ar.d f(,i'ii<Ml througli the narrow ])assage : we 
 travelled back as fast as we could with safety, and with 
 caiuUes burnt down to our fni'^ers. a<rain reached the wood- 
 en door, and opeiiiny it. I beheld the light, with a lilfle se- 
 <-r(f>f>if, which. Iiad I l.een ([uestioned, I might have been 
 too Hout-iie;!rteil to acknowh'due. 
 
 ^^ o retained to the \il!age : and, iiaving j)rocured an- 
 other 'j,uid<'. I v.entjn a hi a\ y rain, nearly a mile on foot, 
 to see the most iMK'ieut and [)roductive lead mine in (.ireat 
 Britain,
 
 h.M.l \M). IH^I.I. \M) \M -1 .1 n \M> 
 
 1 ill: ' >\\ \>i\ MiM' 
 
 I,) w iiirii 1 .illn.li-. i^ !>> li- \ . 1 In ii.i\ ! ht'i'ii w r ii'''iil '.\\ ll:r 
 ItMiiiaiis ainl >,i\)i;-. 1 1 - '-a t \ <r ini > iiia\ Ij'. tii>' iini- 
 lllMl^ lll,l^^ wl rii!t!)i-li. ciili'cti ! ii'Mi il^ iih i'' ii. li. 111. ;;- 
 -ir ili> liial ii li :- ill . 11 uiirki'-i Inr a m r_\ |. ui.' pi : in.!. Ii 
 i^ Mtuali li Ilia: liic li.nt I'l ^lain '1 m . 
 
 'liii- l'ir>l liiiiu lliit alJiart. .1 iii\ lil'iiticni mi lailia ii' _ 
 l', P Mii,,il iiii(- ar^ : l.i^i I ill- Hi i ill'. \^ as ihi 1). alii'.' .! l!,. ! -. 
 'rili 1- (I. I |.irai'"i !.v \v .HiHII : lii. v In . a!s It III [...Ti V \4 iiii 
 a iviii'l .'I 111 i!l. ; : il i> lli'i; -i.i. ^i. w i-in .i. an i ^i ill a\.a\ 
 l.i 111' -IIP III li. 
 
 \\\ jupI: r. HI .a.li .1 II If ii.I' . i;i> //-,/./-/';.', . w ii.i . I la,' 
 Ml a iii;iii-r"- iln--. Il rii;i-.iNti .i i.| an nil r \\ -ija .li: [. . 
 1. 1 111 I I 111 -. r. I II -I- ,iipi .iiM\ : a w iiMli, n -iiii, I i i. -,( i ai 
 llii' -aaa- rill!, liin ai. .iinl all ('1,1 lial. u i'.Ii }'';> liii:a a',!i-iii 
 .:;. I'M I |ii I'll I.' Ill li'iir iiaii' -. aii'l tli.it lii: aa ' 1 in i. a. 1. 
 
 W .til a '.I'lii. li laiii'iii- -tn.-ix mill .i ja.i'r i.| c'ai, . 1 u.-w 
 !..!!. 'W . .i iii\ _a. II- lal.i I iir-i- i!,M l\. iLiiiiji .lai ->.iiii;\ la;- 
 
 '.'il.|l>. 1 |i' I- II 11" 'I a I;.'!,;.'.! ('.lipii.' ill |;i> ii ;; I. ill.l f.V 'I 
 
 liP 'l"i' \S rV>- Ml-|'. i: Il .i I I I .ai ill- lie. i\. 
 
 I III' laiia .'j.' II- ;..'.'. t!i'- -; I .; lii.' iii..''i;i, ;'. l..-".\. a 
 t 'A . I w liis ..: aiiii' -t. 111!' ; li; riii.iai.ri' i- a! ' .. i i\ . . a ; 
 vS . a . ll.i ll\ 1 ! . !ii_il. ( >I iMUi-i' \|. I- w . !:I . . 
 ..a: u nil \r] \ ',\[\]i- r. i.'iM i.. -j. .i-.' ..a . i;ii. r -; . . 1,; -i,, , 
 1,1 a.i. !' w ' |i; .'.a . ;. i iiir. ai.ii a p i--a _i- ,vi '.s .. \ - iiai i . .u , 
 a,.' \ a; . ii. in li.a a.llli a., a.i iai ' I., tia in. a :iii it' I'lf 
 V 'a. la !. -/' lit \v a- _ i ".a i:. n,.' li.c ii. r" ii .! i;,f 
 11 .-- _ '. Ill: 1 '. ' I A \\ II' 1 1 .! . h. w ':' I a a., ami ^^ af.'i , \\ , - 
 1' ,,'11 I. : - 'i.i. wli.J II," 1' [irai la .liil' . ;., li..aiii- .iial 
 aa'i' v. \ iai ii m. a: ' . i.^ >\\ ::. _ a- ili v .i
 
 126 A JOLRXAL OP TRAVELS IN 
 
 \Vc wpiit Ibivvurd, stooj^iiig-; sometimes nhnnst oree|t- 
 ig, and often throiidi passni^es so narrow, tliat il was ne- 
 cessary to.'O side\va\s. 
 
 <,)ver our lunids was a flourinu' of boards laid on wooden 
 rafters, to support tlu- loose earth and stones : from this 
 rot)f the water was every where dropping and trickling 
 dowi! the walls, so that we were kept constantly w et. 
 
 Our j^ath frequently led us over pits sunk forty or fifty 
 feet, like wells, down to another oaljery, similar to that in 
 which we now were. Through this lower gallery the wa- 
 ter of the mine runs oft'. Some care was of course neces- 
 sary, in passing by these siiafts, lest we should step into 
 liii'in : but they aie generally in some measure covered 
 with loards. In tliis manner we travelled on half a mile 
 into the bowels of a mountain. 
 
 W ;i(u we !iad reached the end of our journey, we as- 
 lendcd into a great cavern, which they had excavated to 
 TJie distance oJ" forty fe(M above our heads. The ascent 
 was by means of ti.>i!)ers fixed in the crevices of the rock, 
 [ike the rounds ol'a ladder. Here 1 took hold of the ])ick 
 ;i\<' an(M)roke oifsome of the lead ore to bring away as 
 specimens. 
 
 VV(,' returnetl a part of the' way, and then took an excur- 
 >iun into another vein which diverged from the principal 
 Mue at an acute an<jl(' : this vein has been explored for a 
 mile, but we contcU^'d ourselves witli going only half this 
 disiaure. 
 
 [n cur progress through the mine T had tin? satisfaction 
 of seeiiiLr, in their native situations, the most important 
 ores of h ad ; tiie beautiful crysfalizations of tluor spar, 
 .Old ' alcart'>)i;>^ spar; the sulphat of l)arytes, native cop- 
 
 ,..'r;.s, aiid ''\i''',\s'.vo strata of liuKJStone. llUed with the
 
 mu-' riiiimi-- jsi'tnlactuMi-;. I !;i" ^''rii'' \^;l^ to n,o i\- 
 !. Ill' I . nil' ri-!iip_ ;iiiil iiitriicti\i . aii'i Iw^ Immi < jm-n'-'I 
 iMii.'iK' i\\a\ ill ill'' iniih'. 'I 1,^' !<['' i^ iMa\< si-'l t.i li ,\ 
 lijiM !i'. iiiiaii> n! xiii.ill \\ ;i j_ . if,-. 1 iir nal aif i >i ili.' siii;- 
 ,'1' a ai'ci>-at ii\ [nai lnii- n tii<' im:|i1"\ iiiriil dans iImih -- 
 III- aiiiiaai. ari.i \\i'' iiaai;^ tin ltl"i art in lluii -.li a. : ; 
 ill' \ ai^ K;. i,.li\ li,',' 11. --'. 1 1.) i!ii u .iLij.MN. u iiii ((.':!. II -. 
 aai liar. v. ;,ii.l tinK tia\<'l lia<-k aaii l.auar.i ilii'i.i!_ii 
 l!.. -r lii-iaal n _'i'ai-. 'I lir\ all' I'M;-. .1 t,. _ii at It a-! iia'; 
 .1 n; ii' w a'a r\ i a a Ina.i. aihi .I'l lin' ^^ i \ tliin!' 'li narlviii~s, 
 ami \ r; \ (.!( 11 llirii l.iaii i> iiMihiaj I a it i til)!i:-n. lof ii is iii- 
 ii'^ln a- lii!'' liiai tlii- Ik- rn!iMaiitl\ : . 1 1 u>\ i 'i i . m1 lin u i -i ( 1 n 
 iallri_\ wi.aM !) -.1 ulisini. ii',|, ihat no wmk laniKl In' 
 <! "i'-. ^ it l!a\ ilMlalU -jii I'll tlh-ii wh'ilr li\fs luir. aii'l 
 1 a \ ii \ I ar. I i!il I 1,1 - la 1/!' n. ^I\ 'jiii Ji' li ! 1 limi 
 t \Mi'l\ -li\ ! \.-.!i> la lia' 1IIMI1-. aiiii Lis lallr i au'l 'ji'iii'l- 
 ' ^':,a 1; i i i.in-!ina li all t!a ii ila\s in llii' v.ina- |jla'i'. 
 
 \\ I !; \\ 1 1 ; a la li 1. 1 111- liL III, :ii iii_iii' vv illi a- -| iiri- 
 
 i;- Ol till' i!::m 1, lit |il,, h,l liiia^ .'; till' nilU' . \\ i H 1 ' i I I 
 
 ,. al s'laa lii'iiii' i:a\ in ^1,. w \.>a. i in' h ii.'i^ <<{ 
 
 II t.'aiTs at'- 1.1 .lil an r.ai..ii\. >iaai laia > tin- ii"a 
 
 : - ia, aiii'i li.i' map is aI'i- iini iri i in in iiii a iiia^^ nl vti aa'S 
 
 ,,.1 i rarili ; -' laii iaiii - a --aiii ! ii la h ^i ni \\ ati r lirnw lis 
 
 ill. in. ;iaa .! I'liai tiaa> llii\ ai<' iji ^l 1 1 '\ i (1 li\ ;ia L'.in 
 
 A'!. a' li|.. ,- wiili whirli tl'iA na-l ;ia' r.uax^. 'i Iiom' 
 
 1 a: r.ui I ~ .(' . iii'I I: i ija. ai. ai'.l \ i-; 1 ia-v lia\ i ii ha ji- 
 
 [1 aa ! I" !'- < >\\ liia ,.:iai-. 
 
 la. I'.it I' |iiii ..1 ihi- ii.'i.'lai nii> .1 ( a-iliaai ar- 
 ..I ,; I.-. 1 ii' a I ' II I.; na M-iM.s ,1- ui'i ii.ia_'ia!'!'' a-, tlia' 
 I'i I'ai llai'i 1.1 '.i-'.^. !.'! .liha.iljil la.t iiiaiii- ir r. . iil.i r\ i.\ 
 lia- 1 iai')iiil -a Ml ni ! iw .a lii.' ml! i< iicr dl ii'li/aai. it !> - 
 < I'a;-'- !>. ,' 'ai'' I la ii'.-i- --it , . anil '. aa> !a. n. v. . .a--
 
 l2s a journal of travels in 
 
 and cliildi-eiij from generation to generation, are all, in 
 one way and another, employed about the mines. 
 
 Having thrown off my miner's dress, I went with an- 
 other gnide to see 
 
 THE SrEEUWELL OR NAVIGATION' MINE. 
 
 This mine proved to be a very different thing from lliat 
 which I had just left, and 1 found no difiiculty in wearing 
 my usual dress. 
 
 We entered a wooden door, placed in the side of a hill, 
 and descended one hmidred and six stone steps, laid like 
 those of a set of cellar stairs, The passage was regularly 
 arched, with brick, and was in all respects convenient. 
 
 Having reached the bottom of the stejis, we found a 
 handsome vaulted passage cut through solid limestone. 
 The light of our candies discovered that it extended hori- 
 zontally into the mountain, and its floor was covered with 
 an unruffled expanse of water, four leet deep. The en- 
 trance of this passage was pcrtectly similar in form to the 
 month of a common oven, only it Avas much larger. Its 
 breadth, by my estimation, was about five feet at tlse v/a~ 
 ter's surface, and its heiglit four or five feet, reckoning from 
 the same p'ace. 
 
 On this unexpected, and to me at ihat moment, incorn- 
 prciiensihlc caiud, we found launclied a large, clean and 
 convenient boat. 
 
 We end)arked, and p-iiled ourselves along, by takirjg 
 jiold of wooden j)egs, fixed ior tlial purpose in the walls. 
 Ohr progress was tin\)iig;i a passage w holly artificial, it 
 iiaviuL;' ix'fn all blasted and hewn out of the solid rock. 
 N OH will readily believe that this adventure was a delight- 
 .\il n-creaiiuu. 1 never felt m.v;-t tovcibiy the power oi
 
 I.Nf.i. WD, JlOl.t. WD .\M ^iMr!-.M). 1 .) 
 
 ontM-l. Iii-.u';i.l ii| rr.iwliir/ tlir.'ii.'li a ii;iiim\v iliriv 
 ,,v-, !_'', \M' \M If lunv ])|iM^.iitll\ irnli;it k''il. ind wiio 
 (.'isiiiii : aloii'j 'mill 1 kiu'w i;.ii ulial ^ulitaiA rr'_'iMn^ mI t!ii< 
 ii'l'- 1 arili. n\i'\- ail rvpaiiM- a^ v,'i-,ii.' a^ Miniiin-i' ^m'^. 
 \\ < iiail not till' iiildiir-- iMi' fh-' ^ilkfii -aiU nI ( 'liMjiatra"": 
 ;iai_'''. iiiit \\i- t \c' lli-il ii< r ill m>'li'il\ o\ >-.Mmil. ami di^- 
 r'.in'itu'-- "I <'i'liii : Inr. \s lii'ii. in ilic i:aii't\ I'l ni\" -pii It^. [ 
 ii>'_' 111 to ^iii'.'. ill'' iHiitiiian ^iMMi <_'i\i' III.' to ui;il'T-taiiil 
 
 '!::' 11' . .-IV ^lloIlM ^ni_; 1 h hi ^ I IMU |H a 1 11 . \\ it 1 lol It ili^ |ii Tllli^- 
 
 :: ai!'! Ill loll- I ha I iitnar.! thp'.- imtr-. h'- lnoki lonh 
 '.:: ^Miii a Nirnii. lliat I ua> r, .airnt.-. I to livirii. aiwl \iilil 
 'hi' \>'.\\\i\ w ithoiit a coiiti-t. I li> \oici-. u hiih u a^ -iioiiLT. 
 i\>-;\] ami im-|oiiioiiv. iiia^lf all tliov,. sili'ni ifjion- rin- : 
 :h'- I'OM \aiilli''l pa>--a'''- aajim iiir,] the i fl. ri : icao aii- 
 -'.Mird witli \i-,t\ ili-tim-Iii''--, ami lia^i ;1m' ^uii nt i!it 
 nioiinla'ai !i'->ii ilui.-. ilr\ \vou|,| ilmiliik n-, h.r,,' iiktii 
 |: i-N I J' with u^, anil Ip ai k' ii''l to 1 1|.- >i aij. In tli>- iiiian 
 liiu' .".' li'L' ni to hi n till' SOI 1 1 hi 111 ;i lii-Mii; u an r l.iil. 
 will! h -jri'W loiiijiT ami lomh i. a- \\i- .nivam a li limit i' ihi' 
 iiioiiniain. till n imai a^i.l n> ^n<\\ a lo.niii: iioisr th il the 
 lio.iiiiian co'ihi no hiti^rr he In ai.l. In liiis m mm i' \vr 
 uiiit oil. a ijiiMlii ol a null, till .'. f ai i ;\ rj in a \ ast 
 rivi'in l.|-;m'l ihrni !i\ naluir. 'I ii. iiiiiiias, ii> th"\ 
 
 '\ ' 1 I- li!a-li:r_ I'l'- : or'.v, .;I 1 1,1' I 'II' W !irli till S WrlT I. a 111- 
 
 lin- \aai;i ! j':;->:i".-. ai'.i.iini.ii! \ ii|nn 'i lla :i w a \ in- 
 lo ,liiv I iM-rm lilt. I .tivf,i\ ri' ti lio\v i!m imimI u is 
 - a 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ' I 'A 1 ! : I \i. a 1 1 r : -- 1 I . . 1 1 ' : 1 1 1 : a i i ; i i a 1 1 1 n 1 1 i ; i i ' . 1 1 1 1 with 
 a ! 1 \ I 1 . I , : ! " " ": t h r ' " . a 1 1 . 1 ' I I \ I I M a l ii _ i 1 1 a n " 1 > -. w 1 1 h 
 till !l I 111 ' I |i '- ~a I . aii'l I I'linv 'i \ui a ] ,i .rl i nn- I w i iil \ - 
 Ir.f I. . t int.. a .'.o k ''<\ -^. 
 
 \ I'll' ( I . .- -I I I Ml I n ! . ' h' , u ,' ', Is ci iiiiii,'. ,1 I ; a 
 
 io a v! a iiuiL Uii Im I . oii tin . a.'. ! sn! . iiu. !. :i".- in t!i'
 
 130 A JOLKXAL OF TRAVELS VS 
 
 -svhole half a mile fro.n the entrance. The end of the arcii 
 is six hundred feet below the summit of the mountain. 
 When it is considered that all this was effected by mere 
 dint of hewing, and blasting, it must be pronounced a stu- 
 pendous j)erformance. It took eleven years of constant 
 labour to effect it. In the mean time the fortune of the 
 adventurer was consumed, without any discover}^ of ore, 
 except a very little lead, and, to this day, this great work 
 remains only a wonderful monument of human labour and 
 perseverance. 
 
 During the whole period of five years tluit they continu- 
 ed this work, after they crossed the cavern, they tiirew the 
 rubbish into the abyss, and it has not sensibly fdled it up. 
 
 They have contrived to increase the effect of the cata- 
 ract Ijy fixing a gate along the ledge of rocks over which 
 the river falls. This gate is raised by a lever, and then 
 the whole mass of water in the vaulted passage, as well as 
 that in tlie river, presses forward towards the cataract. 
 I ascended a ladder made l)y j)ieces of timber fixed in the 
 sides of the cavern, and with tlie aid of a candle elevated on 
 a pole, I could discover no lop: my guide assured me 
 that none had Ijeen found aldiougli they had ascended very 
 high. Tbi^ ( avern is, withi.ut exception, the most grand 
 and soletnn pUice that I have e\er seen. When you view 
 me as in the centre of a mountain, in the midst of a void, 
 wliere tlie re<iiilarity of th<; walls looks like some vast ro- 
 tund;).; whcii yoi tliinlv ol' a river as flowinc across the 
 Ixittom of ibis caxcrn.and falHi!';^ abruptly into a profoiuul 
 abvs^, uilhthe stunning noise fif a cataract; wIhmi you 
 ini;e.r;n.'. Iiiat by the li/ht of a fire work of iriin -powdtT 
 play-'d o'i' n\ Miii-pose to render this (kiikni\ss visib'i', the 
 fo:un of the fiitariu't. Is i!!iM>!!i!:itcd even down to the ,sur-
 
 hNi.lWl). lim I \M) \\i) >.'.i(\M). 
 
 i,;i 
 
 f,U r iii'llif Wiit'l III ill"' aliS^N. .ilh! llir r,i\- i|!iill>-i| l>\ tin 
 li\ hi iii,i/i' n| tliK [irijiaiaiioii, aif nilt'i-tiil .ilnii'j iln ilrip- 
 [iiiiL' A.ilU I'l tlif r,i\t rii, till till \ air jiivt in iln 'iaiki r ii'- 
 'jii'!|s all. % r. \ I'll \\ ill iii)t \s tail irr tliat Mich a xcih' slidiiM 
 M i/.r cii iii\ wliiii'- ^iMil, an! till nil' willi auc ami a-loii- 
 i-Innrjii, call-in.' nir lo rxrlaim. a-- I iii\ oliinlai ily ilnl 
 iii'iri-' ll'iiis iif tin/ in r'.s. l.i,r<l ( i(jil . ihni^lil ii ' 
 
 \ !( I a-i'>-n.iiiiL' InMii till' iia\ i'jatioii inliK'. 1 alK iii|il' ti 
 iM ; ,1 ujt ih' 111 a it III ( ail' ul llir nil ill main-. \s illi tin- liniiliir 
 l.Mrpii^i i.I iilitaiiiiirj a \\v\\ i\\ t'.a' \a'li\ lii'iii an iliAalnl 
 jM.i;,i. ,'!,.; Ill H' iiliiii'.: ill'' aiii'i'iil ca^llr. i'.iil. in\ hilimir 
 jirMVi.; j! .iili^-.; tlif iiiiiuiil nil. wlii'li Iihiii tin' \,i!liv 
 M't'llini Ui'l liUlii'illl III a^iTUij. |iiii\cil III hi' t \Ciciliili:l\ 
 -! I I'. 1 l.i.li .1 mi. luii Illi^l|^ iif ll;i' ua\ up. -lill liiiiiinL: 
 !l -i' i;>' 1 ami ^li'iMi r. ami siill i< -.hImiI imi in rc!im|iiiv|i 
 ni\ I'liijMi^i- : in ilii ni-aii lian' it -nu ilaik. wiili ilir ilr- 
 i:a\ I I tuiii.'lil. anil I wa- -Miiilmlx i'n\i'lii| in 1 in iiii-l aim 
 iM.n: i;ii ^li'i p ~i.|i nl liii' nmiailaiii 1m c-amr \ii\ -.|iji|ii - 
 lA : 1 li II III i:i|i'nll\ . ami. a! liii_lli. a liii |) .iiiii alirii|)l 
 rli.i-M ! a 11 ii\ III"' iIhmU. I ' laijili I' U ai I '-!-. 1 in \ ]iii"ji i-. 
 aial ri iinj II 111 i| nii' \'i inakf lln In ^t n; ii!\ \va\ ilnwii. 
 uliii!. I iliii \siili nil >iii.iil lin'iiruhs. Ill llii' niiii^i n' 
 -iaikii' > aii'l lain. I Maclii-I lln' ( a ^lli-l nil. '"i mi | ili-'n 1 ". 
 'iriiiriai!. ami r\liaii>i' .i \s nil tall Jill'. 
 
 ^lii :i i I ,. I'ln: >r \ii Ml M. w a^ lln iiiiK nn Inviiv ni' ^l:. 
 l, ,il!i . Ill ( .i-lii Imi u iihli n niaiu! li l.i Im' r yjii. ti il. 1 i i-i 
 Willi nai^ili > Miini \\ Ii at ri'ni li i an lla l,iti_ la' i il \ i -It a - 
 i!.i'. -I'i iinini-iiialiis |i-|Mi1i'iI In lin- iiiiiuili i-l \\\v mini 
 1 1 laa i\ - ll> nan II' ll mil it~ 1 h ! i i^ I iir | .!,mi' \i lit 1 r 1 1 ! ' 
 I li Plain I la In ml i 111 luiiii ! al-. km i\\ ii I'l inin'M ak i:: i-N !i\ I la: 
 aiij.i liaMiiM 1 li I'll ir -] lai. ami In ; iir I > I'l \ >li, i nma i-- li\ 
 ' i I" .l"iin. I ill' iiiiui- i- -'I I 'i.' i|,' II- ika \\ .-
 
 132 A .lOliRNAL 01' TRAVELS IX 
 
 nctts. It was first opened for lead, but, being found to 
 affoid very little besides the fluor spar, was neglected, till 
 tliis substance, by the discovery of a new art, acquired a 
 value which it had never possessed before. During the 
 last forty years the mine has therefore been wrought for 
 the fluor spar alone, since ingeiuiity has contrived, by the 
 assistance of the lathe, to convert this very brittle mineral 
 into caiullesticks, pillars, pyramids, artificial grottoS; 
 urns, vases, and other ornamental and useful productions, 
 vvliirh now form some of the most splendid and exquisitely 
 beautiful decorations of the halls of nobility, and of the 
 palaces of kiiigs. 
 
 "^riie rnoutii of the mine is situated in the side of a high 
 hiil, and is closed with a door luruished with a lock. This 
 door 1 found shut, and was not able to obtain admittance 
 till two o'clock in the afternoon, owing to a misunder- 
 stantling as to the hour, between me an.d my guide. The 
 jntervenintr time was spent in making up for the defeat of 
 last night, by clambering the mountains, aiul taking views 
 of this interesting valley from several points. On the 
 heights I found a gentleman and lady, who, like me, had 
 couK," to see the cuiiosities of the place. Peo})le who are 
 on the same adventure easily become acquainted; I found 
 vhem very aii'al)]e and polite: we were familiar at once, 
 an.i formi'd a little [)arty u}) Mam Tor. We found the as- 
 cent steep and laborious, nor had we quite reached the 
 sunuriit, whc^n I descried the people coming up out of the 
 d:u)v ui' tf.e spnr v.; ne, which tlu'v had closed, aiul locl.cd 
 a' "i' tin; II, wlirn they de.scem'ed to work in the morning. 
 ^\ 'iiie i iiasieue 1 ilown. aU'.l secured lie- oiiide-., theeende- 
 })ia;i and l.i'ly li.lioN.ed mnre '('iili -.at-l., but wlu'u they 
 arrived, and .saw tlie mouth of tlii? Uioriny Arhfroii. \\-'~'
 
 SI i \ \ , . 1 r . I I . V M ) \ M ) - .' . 1 I . ^ M . 
 
 .11. 
 
 ; tlMii .' i; ii.i:t ..' (I \- ' 'Uiii -;( ]i--. .:; . r : \ 
 : \\ .' I'i'.i I J(i!i I ! i l!ii ' HI', 'i |i.!- 
 
 , I I..\\ . ;;ii i I' i,>lii-.'.| Hi!, lly \:. (Ill' ci h- ; ii.t 
 
 , , w It' I' 111 Ml III' 1 M.:' .lini \>. alls. I hi! i)r( a .i,,;,,i;i\-. 
 
 , \' . i'- u M>- I.I' I !i .11 \ . [ 1 1'- i.ihi'.' iiiiiiH 'uiis cav I'! :!- I ! 
 
 ,ii! ' i!' i:'".~i"ii^. vv 11' i'' I " ivS an. 1 I 1 ! , 
 
 , . II'! . J 111 i'\ I'l \ _ r. ,;. -.Mil" ,111,1 tiiir.i!' Mill ' 
 
 W ' ii> - ii I' ,1 ; ' ' I" ii-i!''.,',.! 1 i:;"' . a i!i ( ji [,',i. w !ii r.' 
 . ' '' it r, .! t Mill- mill.. . I'll ' I ' ^I'lii : \'. t- in.':!,' < 
 
 ., ll\ -!' i'l i. "'1 I 111 ' - ,.l \\ n. ,, I. II \i (I III ; ii' 
 
 \ .1 . -, ,1 ;:.| I ,:i -,:'-il |.ri, , rllMi'.- Ill iIk Ini 1. - ,U C'iiir i.l 
 i V \ ' ill'' !)"M' Ml ' ;' I '! - ;.il. ill' I ' \. , ', , , ; 
 
 . '1 -|> ii . .liM ! . <il i( liji V. iili i!ii' 
 
 I I . \ Ml w i ,' \ . .!.!' . !-! il. -' . ' .;.l <ii!,.r 
 
 I . . lir \ : I' ii.i'i' mm! Ill iiiiii' s;. .'i.'^ 
 
 ,i "11^ iMiiiUi'wiiv j ; ; ii.i.-; r ,:i^ I 1 -!i. .i ,; 'ii. .ii;il 
 
 \' .; ill,' I 'I'l'ii ( ill' In', . .'. ; , . ,1 !,.:i\ ' .-..in, 
 
 vJl'Ti 111' ' . i;|. I'^l III' lis "!i t:,.' I ,c!\v, ;ii;,l til'' 
 
 'II- '1^1 
 
 .1 -t ll.i. \'\r.. ,.;, iiiil,-,! 
 
 I -;-!i ;. il'i IV- 
 
 ' ' '.,:i "I 1' lit li"iii ">'r M'ii.il' V. 
 
 W, ' ,, \i ii ,1 \\ ! . i I 111 il; 'I a,i a|,' ri,ir'' ^u nai i . .w liial 
 
 I" ! ' .ll ,. >l , '". '. |i -I llj l:,\ \M ' 111 I'll 
 
 . ' ' i'l -, III I Pill ;,.a!^ i:i\ \\ a . . iia'li 
 
 '\ lira. - . a Ji 1 .1 ii;i| I. I lilt, I ii..i in it ir- 
 
 : it tin- ' III . |,i ,v ! (Ill i| II M. \i > ; I a li, ui;!.',,! 
 
 ,. . '." III. .' k :', .1 r 111 li i 11 \" !.,,.:. .,- 
 
 ; " :. I. , p ('vf .t,ii_ s .ll t. ' . I ri^''. . iiMi"' ii .a.t. pa ,
 
 134 A JOIRXAL OK TRA\fiLS IX 
 
 and more perfect, tlian I had seen before. In one plactf 
 tlicy had extended from the roof to & horizontal jirojec- 
 tiou in the rock, and formed an assendjiapc very mnch 
 resendjiing the pipes of an organ, he.ice this place is call- 
 ed tlte oruon. 
 
 Nothing;' can be of a pnrer or more dazzlinq- white, than 
 were some of tiiese stalactites and incrustations. The 
 miners tliink they are produced by a petrifaction of tlie 
 water, and hence they call them ivateridc, from an evi- 
 dent and natural allusion to icicles. The ];)rocess of their 
 formation is precisely that of the production of icicles and 
 incrustations of ice on the sides of mountains, except that 
 the latter arise from an actual con<:ealin!i- of tlie water by 
 cold; the former from a gradual deposition of the lime 
 which water, under certain circumstances, had the power 
 to dissolve. As it lilters througii the rocks, tiie lime is 
 gradually deposited in a crystalhne form, and generates 
 stalactites if it fall perpendicularly, or incrustations wlien 
 it runs down an inclined j)lain, or adheres to a perpendic- 
 ular one.* 
 
 My guides pointed out tlie moutli of a cavern into 
 
 Limestone i? not soliiMe in niirc water, Ijut wlien the water 
 U impregnated with carhnnic acid, (fixed air) il tlissolvs the iiine 
 .tone with siiHicienl ea^c. ^Vhen >valer, l!ius char^cJ. O't/.ci 
 llirongh the roofs of caverns, liie carl)onic acici, h.-ini; a aa: cuus 
 acid, evaporates, and the earthy matter v\ hicii it hr'i! i,i ..oliitiou 
 \i thus de|ioslted in the various grolcs(iiie forms \\'i!(;li a'-e com- 
 mon in the caverns in lime stone coinidic-. I'iie '.'.e-teMi and 
 .south western states abound in fine exnnipl. os (his sort, and 
 some of tiiem have been explored ior miles. A\'iei-s cave in \ ir- 
 c,inia is oiie of the most celebrated. Its s(:>laefi;es ;;re as large 
 and beautiful as those of Derbyshire,, aiiu the caveru is more e>: 
 tensive.
 
 fv,.: vn. ii.ii.i. \\;t vni. -'iii vM'. ^''i 
 
 mImcIi III'-, ilii'w :.ll liirir lu'iM-li : i!i. \^ li.l lii.'v li;ul 
 fr.i.iJ ii '1(1 u\i>v<- liiiiii ;i mil'' uitliciil liiuliiij lI^ tt'iiiiina- 
 limi. 
 
 I II. h! li.iu- ^iir\<\i'.l all ill.' siilitt riancan \^un.i'l^ u\ 
 tIm' I'l-.ik. .iii'i tea. ill', I ill val(l_\ liir Mirlar.' dl' tin' LM-iiml. 
 
 Oil iriiiniiir:. I r.i:iiii at liu'inii ni_\ law coiiii.aiih'Us, 
 w iiM liaii 11 !i 1,1' ] at llic iiiniilli cl til.- mil'.-. 'I'll. _\ -I'riil- 
 i-:n 1.1 lii\i' lakf II a -li. .:'. ii!i'Ti'-l ill in\- a.l\ . ntiirt'. ami 
 i.i I. , I -Mill- j.-jr.l. an! a lill!"' iii.a ti li.Mlii.ii. lint tlii'V 
 ha.i ' \< ,1 \\\\ I. iiii<;iil.-li.ii til.' MiidrrlakiiPj. 
 
 \ liii! ,iii. I- li\r I |ir.M-,r,!, li i,a- I'liM.'H. \ M-cndiiiL' 
 rii'' \\ ii'ii' !!>. ! i.':i-'T'. .-.I a li.'a\_\ I'ai I . . I. ( [ il\ la.liii. lii'- 
 ^..!|,;,iij ill,, lull. 'I'ii.- ,!ii\.l Irlil lak. il ..tl' tlllrr ..! Ills 
 ii,.i~. N. u liaai ail' iiMi.iiU liari.. >-.''l Ihi < . a.>iii I'nr^xl- 
 \,ia!,i. ir. a -iiijl" \i>\\. aiiM la.t alnf,isi. anil liaij la-lfinil 
 til. Ill ia till' ^ '.111. . .r.iij- III liiihl lii.'cait. 'I la- a aiiiiaU. if 
 M.IM-. ai. tia!!,.'! Ill kii'ivk. til. It 1,1 iki^ situ. Mi. ai tli._v 
 nri-i lia ,_ lia. k. u iili ..1! ilui;- |..iu cr. aial ilnis 1 1 lir\ i- ilir 
 li II--. ill ! . kil!^. In Ml a w I'.lil wiinli il \\.iiilil li.' iiiijin^r 
 ^ i 1 1 1 . 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 ill ^ 1 1 - 1 ; ! I ! I . 
 
 (li Di.ii'.K \i, i;i \i \i;k- ON 1 hi: im: \k m i'::i;i,\ -iiii;i. 
 
 Miiiiujii la.i-t i-l' ill. tiijii. N .ij llii^ .li'iirii.il arc raln^-i 
 ;.|[i!i'm. til ill |i:.''. --Il' :.-ik 1 .i.i ii'.I kiil'l iii \ v. ! f 1 1. ,i,iii 1 
 iulii. !\ I I al-i nil liiiai - i. alili' .ii ji . --;' m^. [iiii\i.i..l 
 111' _\ ai.- ..ii ^'ilr. .-1- ia iii.-ii- ii.iMif int. II -iia_ .iial nnji'ir- 
 t.i^M. .iii'l a! . la it ;,.a. a^.iii iliK i -.: . ,mI.i k in ai.v t'\riil 
 }'! .Ill iiMil I I .a;iil'_; ik. ,ii ll \ ni . lii.n-.'. 
 
 '>! -I I" I":!-. liiii-->iiL lii .1 tki- J.i').' w as ( 1 ; ,it.-,i \i\ 
 
 I'ii' 11 i: II' I hi- \ iai; kt\ . .i | h -ii a m w liicli lam.' In it aa 
 
 -! -' "H,l I, . -li.ia. i-niil. '.Il ill. a I-.- 1 \. s Willi ill,, aiiiiii-- 
 
 'lii- _ la J..1 il mil. tiiil (III 1.1. 1 I \. 11 ill, ..in ill. It M,
 
 fjO A JOURNAL OF TIIAVKL3 IN 
 
 this rude earth, seenunfzJy made uj) of mere brute mate- 
 t'ials, lbrtui{oi!.sly assembled, and presenting only an em- 
 blem of cliaos, there is a real though oonocaled order ol' 
 arrangement : u structure according to lixer! laws. a 
 iiatara! associ:uion of particular mineral substances and 
 strata. and ia short, abundant disjjlays of the same wis- 
 dom, jiower and goodness, which are so ajMjarent in the 
 fi.vo nlher kingdoms of n-iture. Tlie study of these facts 
 coi'.siitutcs theo'iject of modern irct)io!:ry, a. science of very 
 !-ecent origin : in shoil, it is the iiatural history oi' the 
 globe, and as s:i(;!i, ir is a i)rancii of stu'.'y, rich in inter- 
 estieg facts, and alumd.anlly api'Hcable to human wants. 
 
 We m!_-::it not confound it with those snecidatlons, often, 
 distinguished tor boldness and briUian'v, and arrayed 
 in tlie cIiuvMis of a sjdendid and i'a^cinaling eloquence, 
 ivhich some tlieoiists Itave clothe.j with t!:e name of geol- 
 ogy. It couM no longer be asse; ted, without the hazard 
 ;tf inci!rri!!r^ cxtrcsKe rliiicale, < vrn ajnonp' tbiose \\lu.> are 
 not anxious to recom'sio liature aad revelation, that the 
 eartli aul t'^e otjier |.!ai)i!s \veie sirrck oil" iVom the sun 
 by ill'' t;di ( fa e-'';!!.! ; ihat !; y aciji'irod theii' globular 
 l\)ri! '.y ;!; '-o:^ a;.!'. , i'-oi' coijibt;,-: L'n(jec-h ages, became 
 iitted f:>r t': ' i.ai !! :li^ii,s of li\ing Ijii i:,"-. ' It would bo 
 f asy Ol 'ol a v-i:!;>;c \\id; the drr,i!-!- of |aiih>soiiby on 
 
 il.'r- ;i;;;-i::Ct ; b;;: -I'dli ,],: ;\];>^ \\ e InnC ;:t j;;\-,^ ;lt UO CoU- 
 
 ..u: we Hdl co-ubie o:o-r'!vo< t) I'cis. i^en fiets, 
 iiowv "!, '\ ilh;; ;c ihfor\", ii:i\ e s:> ;:!;! dob* d upon us, that 
 s'k: V b^ii- 1 ;; '/: {.( !!i'> JfHjn'a! \rou; ' Uc iiiad<'!;ua'o to 
 a hiil -;at' ,e> !:t oi' da. in. 
 
 ^\ o \'-\[\ at \:v.'''\.i advi ft to do jno!\: tii.ui ;!i'e nccessu- 
 ;-y to rci'dor die r.::A-. rA' ;)eriyshiie !:iieMij.ibI.:
 
 K.Ni.l. WD. H'MI.ANn AND -cr.xi.wn. 
 
 1 <: 
 
 FIh^ LM'tattT part of our iiUtUv is niaii-' up of locks. 
 riiiiM' iMck^ wliicli M'tiii to I'Driii i;s il \v<'ri', tli<' iiuclfus 
 (if till' ul"!"'. wliicli lie hciir, It'll all llir utliri-<. ami thcn.^- 
 t'i>i\' inriii ili.'ir liavis,aihl w iiich ucc,isi(inal!y pu>li iliioii'ili 
 all til.' Dtlirrs, aiiM Inni! tin' lii-ln'^t peak- and lidLfc^: 
 uhirli rri'(|iiriitly pii M'Hi ^iiala alimwi p( i-pi-ndiciikii-. ami 
 f.(T,i^iiiiMll\ (luili' Ml. ami whirli. il' n^t m-i'U tui tlir Mil- 
 iars, tlinr i> f\ir\ rra-iMi to In Tn'\i' a!ua\s i \i>l iidow : 
 till' I'.u k> i.!'llii> (li'^nipiioii ail' ciiiiipovid mainly ol ciys- 
 tali/i d iiiatiTiaN, ;iiid m'\rr CMiiIain any orL''aiii/.rd re- 
 inaiii> : mi impi i'--:.^ii^ uf |. a\ i -. li^li. sin lU. ur in ^liort, 
 aii\ iiaiiiianl^ 111 li\iii_f i^riiiLi^. and. in -' lu lal no iVau'- 
 nll^t^ III' oilirr rmk^. 
 
 'In tlii^ i'la>s 111' riii'k> tin- nanii' ol' priin'd'iri has ix-rii 
 npplird. 
 
 linnndiati'l'v ^npi rim miilHut npnn iliiv h isis. wr liiul 
 amiili'T di'M-i ijii aai <il i dck^. w lin ii arc o! nil lii.diU n'\ s- 
 tahm- ill ill ir rnaipM^iliciii. Inilan ii^iialU ni'irrcr Irss. 
 and -liim liini'- \ 1 1 \ iDarii. nilxr I w ilh li .^'.ran ni- ;!i!d pnr- 
 timi-. wlinli lia\i' ln'iii la' ' Ii oiiraij \ liri.ivin 'i.ai ntin'i 
 toi'kv, ,iud na 'ii' or h N~ \'.mmi !i\ atiriiiun. I;: ;'.-ir pu- 
 -ilaMl. iilr\ air licillnl' illt r,.'; xrilical: llir\ 1 , <aip\' 
 an ii.lri iiirdialr pii-iiiiiii ; tlic\ i:irii\ i',.rii!an aa' Ic willi 
 till' linri/.oii 111' Ir-. liiaii '.a! , nr ih.mt ihaa i.". <.; .a) : 
 liM'V a If iirraMiinalU lilli-d. nioii' I a- Ir^-s, w i'li iaaai'-sioiis 
 ^d il inaiii^ el plants and ainui iN: n-- I'^U. li^w, \t\\ o\ 
 Miiiat rar: ^ .iiui ^aia'it >, -^la il a^ arr laa a:i,\ i.. !ii' Niiuni 
 
 i\iii;. Ml", il liii' aiiiinalv arr m ai;\ ni^t.irrr 
 1^ i\\ inid. lihA ail' I a I 111' Imiiilili'^l r 'di i'^ i a' 
 \idi|'.!l\ iMivs,-^-, (1 lii.' 111(1 ,i-a.ti\rs III' Ih'a in 
 
 an.;!r i^ a-- ^iiri'l ,i !'
 
 138 A JOURNAL OP TRAVEL.-. IN 
 
 dcaree, and were fienerally incapable of locomotion, ' 
 This class of rocks has been called the transition class. 
 
 It is not always present in every country, but when it 
 is, lis position will i)e found to be such as has been de- 
 scribed.* 
 
 The upper rocks of ilio elobe, those which rej)oseupon 
 one or the other of the jjrecediiig class s are, in their 
 coniposition, much less crystahne 5 earthy materials and 
 Ua ;nients jirevail much more in them, and frequently they 
 are aL'iiO!-t entirely composed of these : in their position 
 t-'i! y are nearly or quite horizontal, in general do not rise 
 into peaks aiid ridges, but form the lower and flat portions 
 of the surface. They often abound, to an astonishing de- 
 gree, with the reijiains of animals; seeming as if they 
 wen; one vast cemetery of the beins^s of former periods. 
 In the more sii;)erfn ial and more loosely coherent of these 
 strata, we frequently find just such animals as are now 
 living shells and fish, and even i)lants of known genera^ 
 anil ill somo instiuioes even of known species. These 
 rocks are c;uled spvondarij. 
 
 Tliere is a fourtli class of much less inij)ortance, com- 
 posed e\Idently of the mere t'ragments of the preceding 
 classes, sometimes vejy coarse, at other times finely divi- 
 ded, and citiier coherent or loose in difi'erent cases. 
 
 Their position is of course fiat ; they i.avt^ no appear- 
 aiHes of crystalization ; l]u\v frecpiently c(j;)tain animal 
 ;.;;(! vei- Sabie lemains; sometimes entire trees 5 quachu- 
 peds, and the -argest animals, sucii as e]r phants, mam- 
 u)oths, &c. 
 
 That i?. tj.ey ii'o wr-xf^.t ivnihr tlic traii-iliua run! primilivo, and 
 >vhf;n tliey i.pi.ewr .it ;;!! arc at ;;!e tor;. 'nU in maiij' extensive 
 
 (!;.-..;, t^ .,..-.r.;^;.,f, ,,, ^c^nudai'v "o'-ks are a; \\\>: '^U!fa<:e
 
 f \..: ,M>. ii^if.i WD And -i..!; wd. 1',^ 
 
 I'iii- (I.i>> iilrnrk. Is (iill.'il ntlnrinl, ,mi ! .:!! nnr -(.!!- 
 
 'I iirn' i~ ai!';ili' r .iinl a rill iiuin' Hi:iiii''l > l,i^^ u! i-iM-k>, 
 
 w'lH ll !:;i\.' liri'li t'.. Mill 'I !i\ Viilcilli;.- Tiri- ,\\\'\ !l\ ( llipliull- 
 
 t'l \ 'i!i\ii.Mi-. : i!i.\. liii\s .' 1 1-. .IK' u-!iill\ ! M- li .III'! |-.ir- 
 tnl ill tin ii' < \i''iil. 
 
 N>\V I'M' nli;r,-t i i' :ii| lll<'-.' Ii lillf!.- i- tn .l-'i'l I.ii II ! 
 
 \\\{.>-\\ . ;;i-> 111-- iiH-:, ^ ..ftlif I'l j!v I't' I ''liiv iiv !. ',>'... 
 
 'I II' ". .11 I I \ ill. mix , il. '1 I'll ;i!ii\ , Inr ll'f V, I;, ]. I'l ,liv 
 
 |':''-fii'^ \\\\i' I \.iiiiji!rs I'l i'i"-c ^iiMl,' ii; liiii'' ^;.. . wl.irh 
 
 1ms r Ih r:i (ili\ |. .ilvU l'. i;!;i. ,i v;i,"( i!|.- rr, .'ti: 111 i,: .i,,i!n;lN, 
 \<V ill tin- l'H-;,> (III ['i;.' ^'i; .i-.'. ill ill'' -,' l!i' I'lK I'-, ill 
 
 i!i'' mat' I'i iN (; t!i' !:'>!i-' . .i::.: iii i'li' m' p'ii- !! \h^ c i\'- 
 n-|i>;i:iil iiiiii''-. I'.i ^'ii:ir ,;!-I;iii.'i > ;i li'ili- li"i:i il:'\ ii :il." 
 W I' ll'.'l \ .i^i .l-^ ;;i' ! : Jr~ . : ;iiii !:;;!> ^ : , ; .|ii'r A ,:i lii,r' --h'lli' 
 
 (I II' I i: :.!--, , ; - 'ii ! ,'- llir r. " k w ''i'V, (-"iiiiiiii^ ! i'l'iii. 
 hi U'l- ;i: ;-';liil ;i'ii:'i il-. ^'I'-i; ,:< I. ,;,|. :,'..[ ;i,.'_'^, 
 
 'l! 'V I.' : ' .1 !"i;.;l!\ T'l'lll'l .liis.' ill - iii, i:,.! - > \ < .\\\\\ 
 
 '. \ .!'. liM' ' .;in,|.li N i>r ilii-, !siii'i 1; ,\ . i)' , ;; 'At;. :)i'l\- 
 I iiP \ (I'l 11"! lOlll'' I.M'i' 1' til" (M-i- li; 
 
 111'. .11;. I l;i' .1 ' 
 \^ i ; ! ' ' I v. ' : I ! 1 1 1 . . A ; I ' 1 V ' I ! , ; . . I'M. - i i ' ' i : i ; , i ' r ; ! ^ i r i , 
 i ' ;!ir. cii.i _ I- ill lii'- . i-i.'i'liii'i'U! m|' tli;'i; 
 
 ''!' i ' - : 111' '. I..''.' r,'.; !i' ' 11 mil.' i.ili,' .'. i.'.! liii r '>\'' <''.o 
 ii"l ; nil!.'' ;' ;il! i.; \'a'- \\\:';\< "T li:f i.. :i'<r wlii I| -'^ - 
 
 . ."- ' - |ii. ..i. :il,'i i,''\\ r\ . r 'iliii'-i.il i; !IM V :" K' 
 
 . '' 'M f.v.'-Ul t" t:.' . ' . ' . 
 . : ; l':i|i'. 
 
 i . : 1 M ;h.;' -. ' .ii.i .1' Ii:-' I'lnk. 
 
 ,': . ,.' i' .! iiir.i I'-ir 
 
 M' . . _.,!.>! 'I 111. 'I i I . 
 
 ill I -' . ' ! \ ;:'m;' 1 . 'i/-. ii'i" !i:i---i I'l'ik^ at ' 
 
 I i.< iUUHM!-' i:i!>i : ' 
 
 1 : 'A i: , I I > 11 I'l . : ' ;;i 1 ;
 
 140 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN" 
 
 hav'e existed before the formation of these mountains, and 
 the materials of the mountains must have been either iu a 
 previous state of solution, or of mechanical suspension in 
 some fluid, otherwise they would not have been at liberty 
 to concrete around the organized bodies, in such a manner 
 as to enclose them on all sides, and to receive their im- 
 pressions exactly. The aninnd remains at the Peak arc 
 often encrinites and entrocites ; the linx stone ahliough 
 not highly crystaline, is \ery considerably so, and it is 
 probable that it belongs to the very iiighest of the second- 
 arv, or perhaps more pioperly to the transition class, and, 
 to this class I believe the British (Geologists are inclined 
 to refer it. 
 
 The submersion of the globe beneath an incumbent 
 ocean, is proved most al)undantly by the records which it 
 contains within itself. In sacred writ this submersion is 
 distinctly stated to have occurred twice ; first at the pri- 
 meval period of chaos, when the earth was "without 
 form and void, and darkness was upon the face of the 
 dee|),'' and secondly at the delug<; of ISoah. 1 he struc- 
 ture of the cart!; is clear! . rcconcileable to these two great 
 events, and v/cre thi* the piop,ertime and jjlace, it could 
 be satisfactoiily evinced, that the more geology is investi- 
 gated, the more it coidirms the trrsth of the JMosaic history. 
 
 THE EBBING AM) FLOWING WELL, 
 
 reckoned among the curiosities of I)erb3'shire, hiy near 
 tiie road, and i stonjM> ', lialf an hoiu', to see it. When I 
 first alightrd, it was boiling violently with iuuch nuiso ; 
 within one minute it began to subside, and, at the end of 
 twelve minutes, it had fallen four or five inches^ ai-d was 
 perfectly quiet, with a smooth surface.
 
 At tlii^ in '.Mil "It. .1 ::tMiil(Mi:,.:i on i;.pi 'm.k k. w un a '^t r- 
 . ,Mi'. \\ :!- 1 iiitn- ii\ . ami. ( In ''kiiiL' li--- !i"i-< . li'..kr,i ,ii iiiP 
 V. ifii ,111 :iir ()! < ni'ni-il\ . aii.i iiiiiiiii'' li >\ li.tinr tins \^ ;!> ih'*' 
 
 (,1 ' ..Is Im!i'\-\\ 
 
 ,ll!-\\ I 
 
 ll,,it I 1 liiAt.i it 1(1 I), 
 
 i-ii. II.' ili^aiuiinlr'l a'n rami in la' . .ai'l, m Iim- r..ii!v(' 
 (;i l::ii" iirniiiii'-. ih'- \\;,i r lii"/an a^MJa to lioll. .ind li-c, 
 aipl \' ;'s M)oM r-'j cai'ii liir v.inii lii-i'j!ii. ,iiia ill ' < o- 
 1' :,<! I I iiidiioa u ::i/Ii I had al lii -1 oliMa'Vil. \\ lit n \r 
 ' :t ii. ;'a' wall r '. i- a_aiii ^ah- .i;')'/. ' Ir' |i!ii n ai' iiu 
 
 I lai- Will .iV'' nitivi r. niai kat,lr lu il I'lij- and rai';'. \m a - 
 :.: ;. -''C 'i a - iiad jn % ailfd ! a- a la\ . a" iw o. 
 
 1 had til-' pi a-'ii'f of tliis 'jiMik iia,,"> I'oiiiji Mi\ a'l'ai 
 '"> iiii'' -. ill w iiirii d"raiiri' \\ i' |i:,>-. o' tiaoiijii [iii' >to,n- \ il- 
 
 !'_i-(.l'< iiaji ; oil linli. 'I li'' coiiiil' \ oil ilii> lo.i I \v a-- 
 ]ua''i! [ik '- r.' I" I'aaii that h\ win. h j wnn i,i t a>lliIoii. 
 So. 11 ;i,r r j) i^-iiij t!ii~- \ ilkrji wo ciiiif lo a iiilL \\ la a < 
 ('ii'ii w . III lie 1 1 its I 11 till' Miiiiiiiit. iiiid a I'aiial k adiiiL; 
 
 - d : \ (. r ai liio hoii.,!ii. 'Ik,- limr ..-i .s i,. |ni-> 
 I M' ii . II, li.i t. and till' i-.'.d. >.\ hii k i^ iii'rrss:ii-\ lo| kin ii- 
 in_ ;i k:!i. i|ui' k kiair. i- kroU'dii !. lia i,.,,i ,.\ lii,- k II oii 
 iki raaal. 1 c> i liri liic i ii:in'j.' \'.i,\ k.id .i \i ia ill- 
 
 laoM, r. i:ili I V ,iiicr. | ii.-j-, ...:i^ ;i ,' ii''.' r.i.id li^aa l!a 
 
 111 I at-. ' ai ! k'' i 'I '. 1 I ; III' r.ii'. 1 ,i; I Ih' 111 a,. .|ii Ml I ai la a. 
 i^ : ;.-!'' I<i ..I I- ilia: 1 . at lin' s ,;,,ai;t. 
 
 I -:: \ ^\ ' -I 1 .. : I -. .. i i I'd \'. i ! i I ' j ai . . kllii'. \V ,ts ai l- i' t o ,ii-- 
 
 - ' I ,. iii'l. .a ;!' s.ini: i'aii'. lo dii'.v II , i"'k r >'\\ >', 
 . .;i.. ,;|..^:i ': k. ,,, ki-l V, . 
 
 1.. 
 
 111! 
 
 a I i 
 
 : ; : :, , . : .i i ! in- iioi a i;, i . 
 
 mo la 111.;.-, ami til.' li IP- I ai i ,i k .-t ol vi. :\. 1 a.- i- 
 11 ' k ill.. 111. nil- tia- k. a\ ii r. la-'v', d.' .-, ;; is, and ti,.- kiia 
 - s. .iiiij liiMs i'ii-\ in..',i- ii|i aii'i i'"" 11 '' k: k o'.!, :
 
 J.42 A JOUnXAL OF TEAVELS IN 
 
 ing an irnportant service without any other aid than tht 
 power of gravity. 
 
 My companion proved to be a pheasant man, and con- 
 tributed not a little to the pleasure cf my ride. Jle dis- 
 covered a strong disposition to know something ot' my 
 history, and T was disposed to gratify a kind of curiosity 
 vvhicli 1 found was not peculiar to INew-Engiand. Nor 
 had [ any reason to regret that I had not adhered to 
 tiiHt cautious reserve, vvliich is more safe than amiable, and 
 which, ahhijiigh it may sometimes secure one from impo- 
 sition, may also pre\ent liim Irom forming those trar.sient 
 intimacies wliicli contribjte n(,t a little to the enjoyment 
 and instruction of a traveller. I fra'jkly gave my c0!n])an- 
 ion all the infonnat't n which lie appe;:red to desive, and 
 in return he gave me his name and residence, and invited 
 me to sliare the hospi'.ality of his house in iSottingham- 
 ihire, when 1 shi-uld visit those parts. 
 
 lie seemed nmrh astonisiied that au American should 
 lake so much pains to visit cmiosities, wliirh he had ])ass- 
 ed In. for riiore tiian tlii. 'y vcars, wit'iiut f)nce looking at 
 them, ant! now wisely (!et( rmined that he would go and see 
 ihci!). 
 
 ]\q was a warm friend to the American revolution, and 
 a great admirer ol Washington.*' 
 
 Our rorids soon parte^l, we shook hands, and I reach- 
 ed liuxton so(>u after nine o"ch)ck at night. 
 
 Tlii-; ,^iMit!<"ni!n Milinii-ed Mr. Jclfi-r-dri also, niid coii-iiiifrci] 
 iiis la.-t s|)C('rti in jKirticiilar ;)s an a(!miral>lf lliiii;f. I \<nyv IVe- 
 q'lt'iiliy l;rarJ tli'n spoocli liit;l.ly cstollcil >]),c(i I came to I'.ni:- 
 laii'l. It J^c'iii'. to be llif, ccucral iiiijirf 'ioii lioi'f that Ytv .IcTcr- 
 fon li;i-: <:on!l,|{i"(i uilii iin!.-;iia>!ii-i.i\ .in.l ii.ipariialily in his trcai- 
 iiici't oft'or. li iiaiiiMi-^. ai!i! !hi- lvn:li,-h arc (:h:irin''(| \\i|!| t!ie idea 
 afii slate oi'tliiti'^- u !;. " (ax i;-i'!iit*t=" ape o rarelv ^cpn''
 
 F.SiiI. \M). liOLLA>n A.Nl) m .! ^N;;. 
 
 \u. Mil. lu xroN TO Li:i( Ksn.ii. 
 
 I. I, -11 - >iiu-:il ir \i.\' -"iiii'lni 1 -h'l t~; - 1.' I.-. - .r-l. !:'--< ; . 
 
 i-,.- I ,', ..! Illi- c.lllili) -(' lll'-:l> l.iu. -! ,-- l]"-\V|.l!ll ill ! 
 K:. iii.i 111 'ili_n'>'l' il-r lilllM'- Ml lii- <..;rui 
 
 V'/.7 il. I'l-Xt^.n i- :i llr.il Xll'.' r. v'r'i:it..| m li:.' \.il- 
 . , ill ill.' . ii.'- nt' I)(tIi\ -il M'. It i^ ~ .ll-illn|. ! ;i_\ l..;i_\ 
 ilnl- >Uli| mnllllaill-. ,11 ^'..IP' 'i| \Uiu ll .Ml' iliH'li'K.i.- illl.i' 
 
 |i \\,,>^ I I!m,ii 111 n!.,i;.,.i. Ill I ii- c.lr'iriit, ,; \\.ii,i! 
 , .1 _ ^ .11 ' !/i'lir\ fil 111 :,:i\ ! :h ,-ii Kiimw 'i i,i ihi' I T ini.niN. 
 
 li W ,iN nil.' (il liif I'-^lil' 111 . - ' ! ^!:l V . i;ni 1-11 ol .^( 1 I-. lill- 
 
 1 m_' In r ImiL iin ; 'i i-"i;:ii' I i:i ! -m I -ini. 
 
 I In- ' "iiiitr-, !,i w ill' !i l.ii\i. Mi li- - - 'li-f.ii\ .mi !i ,i ri II , 
 ' '' ,il till' \ ill' \ >. \\ iiirii III . \t' ,|.iM ;iiii| Im liililii!, iii'l 
 _' :.' r..li\ li i\> :i >n-< .i.!i 111 wat'T imi'ii": i! ..i|'_!i I'n 1.1. 
 I 111' riiiii.'Ii- III IT i^ i;iiii\ .11, li K nil ri-v|';i iii^. \i I riiiMnii i . 
 Mill- II li -i; I. .! tu I'll ll.:illli !iv iii\;il il-. .imI -'ill iiiiip i.if 
 .iiii; I-' III! ill ii\ ! Ill' 11' 111! H \ ,1 !i. 1 1 , ,; r . . Ill i:!\ i 'I \\ li.iM 
 ~ j 1 ' 1 1 1 1 1 1 . ' ' ^ ' . 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 r ; I T 1 1 i I - . ; n . i > 1 1 1 1 i u , 1 1 1 ii 1 1 ; 1 1 ' . i - i > . 
 
 I "I 111' il .iiTi ilillil. " i l! inil. 1 1 1' 1 hl'vi' 1 I I ). \ 1 I'l-illl 1 il 1> 
 
 I ' 1 1 ' I .1 1 1 1 ; I J 1 1 i 1 1 1 I 1 ; I 1 1 1 > I 1 1 1 1 III - 1 . 1 : 1 1 . 1 1 ! > ,1 \ M \ 1 \ - 
 i' ii-;\ ! 1 ;iii'_'i' 111 liiiii-.i'v ;iii. ' -I . p^. w iih ,i ' I .Mill rnj. I, ii.i'l<^ 
 , ! |il 1 '/:! i'\Ii'llil:il .' .'il'ill/ I 111' Il "I.I. -II .- Ill I"! Ill Ir.'I I'ln' 
 >' li'ili', \s nil !i -U i\' V till' I \ ( III ,1 II ,i\ 1 II' I \ I I \ Il 'II ili|\ . 
 wli' ,1 ''' '' ii'Jiii ti' I'l till' 111 I iiii'.ii'ii J lull-. Ill llii' rii's- 
 
 ; !.ii ii'ii \v Iiii il 111 M.ri'i Ml/ ( .111 
 
 '1. ". Ill ' L ',: '! I'lji li';--, 111 'liii. ,111'! alliiit liii' '
 
 144 A J0( !{NAL Or TRAVELS IN 
 
 niand. There is al.so a vast uppendase of stables, v/hich 
 forms another crescent scarce!} less maguiiiceut tiian the 
 fust. 
 
 The water Iiardly deserves to be ranked aoionc mineral 
 springs, because its impregnation is e.\treniel_y weak. A 
 gallon ol' it does not contiiiii more than litieen j.';iains (>i"sa- 
 tine matter, most of \vi)icli is coaimou limv stoir : there 
 Is also a small proportion of phi>tir of p;uis^ a^Ki a still 
 siTi.illi r of Luariiio salt, it conviims no <^ast ous niatlcr, t'X- 
 cept one part ia sixty-four ol' azot. Its s<did coiitents are 
 (herefore such v,.-, are commonly tbund in sprinj^ water, and 
 [ coahl not pei---cii-e any thing peealiar in its tasti\ \ et 
 this water is used wiih great benefit by i'lvidlos. especially 
 by rJK'um.itic, dyspeptic, and nepli:ilic j)atloius, and it is 
 probable that its efhoacy is deiived principally from tiie 
 temjjcrature, at least in cases of external apijlication r, for 
 the water is invariably at tlie tem[ierature of 81^^ or oc'^', 
 unci as there is a coj)ious sup()ly, fme baths may l)e con- 
 staiitly hat! at lUi.xtoii. They aie i)()th [iiivate and ]Mib- 
 lic ; some dl ihi' latter are mn'iuificcat, ;ind suiricienlly 
 larue to swim in. llie ihixton vvp.ters can liardiv be lie- 
 noirjiniiteil hot: they are rather tepid. 
 
 Dr. Saui;ders ^Treatise on mineral waters, p. J 1 1 .) re- 
 r.iarks : '' ,\s the fempcratm-e of 82"' is several liearees 
 below that of the human l)odv. there is a sli'j,ht shock of 
 cold felt on th(; first immersion into this bath, but this la 
 almost imnii'diatoly succfidcd by a hiuldy sottthiaii" ;iiul 
 pleaauable iilow over the whole body, which per>viiis of- 
 f( n express to !)e, asifthe skin was anointed with vv;i;;;i 
 c)-('am. and is entiri'ly the effect of temperature combined 
 \vith thai ol' ^;im|)le moistMre.''
 
 t. \V;I AM. !I"IT. \M) AM) ^' fil]\\i>. 
 
 Hi inlnriii"- lis .lUii that tln' ti iiii r.':'.;.iii r,,itli. has iviu 
 K.ci'iif 'ji'iifric, l)fii)^ iiv(,l;is a -cncia! cxpii ssj^n i.ir tf- 
 ;iii| !ialh>. 
 
 At iiiiif o'clock, ill lh<- iMoiiiiiiLr, I I'l-siiinc i in\ s. ,ii in 
 tli<- sl.iL'f. ami [)nicrri|..l to \sh!)nrii. u hi if oiir p iii\ illn- 
 iL < >iir loiiic. I'lir thi'lusl tu i Ur mihs, hiy lhi",;'jh u 
 coiiiiii\ as (h'caiA aii.i harn u as 1 lia\f cM-r lnhtli. 
 
 r.li .ik st-rih' 
 
 iii'-tiiiiti' ol \tiiiuri', auii. t\c<iiliir.' a 
 
 ! \v ! ctiit plaiit iia'iis. w iiiiiiMi a Ir^ ! <u- a -iiriih. a;!i imimI 
 
 I- Ciiiitilliialls . ^I lll\ I'l' ll.ivr lijhs v. i| r lolU . aU'l UHLill 
 
 lil.ij.'llx he ih llMiiiiiialt >1 ninlllitailis. 'I !;i_\ \\<lr rMrll- 
 
 si\il\ cov (i-i<l w ilh a ilaik hi ou ii Pa / . \\ h;. li i.a\ i- tli'ia 
 .111 ;: ji|H ar.iiH ! as ilt -i 'lali as i; tiii \ had Im ii su j,t !)\ ih^ 
 hl.i-Is oi a jHihir u iiilri'. air I ai iil as ilp.'.i^h ih. \ h.i.i Ni i u 
 
 - 1 . I I 1 1 1 I i i I \ ! h t h '. h 1 1 1 1 1 ] ' n i h 1 M \ t ' 1 1 . T' a I j 1 i - 1 : J . ! " 1 I W c ' 
 liachril \shllolll, ihr s( ,|;.' wjn c, il | | !, Icl \ NAils-il. 
 
 \s \\i- Ills, I'll, li'ii iiil.i ihi' c!i.iriii:!i : \.i\r. ihini; h wiiah 
 ;'.rv. ;;,,. ,i\,.|- !),,... ,,a ^^!l,,., 1. nl.s X^lil.aa st,, ;,:., 
 w < \\'i<- '. lali;!' il Willi a.i I xhil'iiam n| i\!, i:-,\-- iiaa- 
 i\')\\ -.. .1 aii .ill till' I II -.11 It \ . \^ hirli (leal ,- tiiaui-,. 'm a _ r i^ ,. 
 
 ,1! i i-\ii1h laia ImT.' :, < .a:hl !h sI.,\v . 
 
 The s, 1 1 lie -I . li. 1 \ coiiiiiiii.-,! t,i I ). I li\ . \\ hicii i^ iha i\ - 
 ihn'i' mill s Inan laiMiai. '1 la |i>\\ii \\,is lull ,.i swlaa r-. 
 aiiil ii"t a !i: i| cniiM lir |ir,,i iiiiii al ihr [Hiiilii'-lioii - s. | 
 
 -\as iiHirjiif .(liniii Ih-ii III ahai;>!ii|i tin- I'ls'rja \v ! h I 
 
 IM ; riiti i; lilli II oj |i IIMIIllllJ tlnir a iia\ nr \\\". .:;,.! I!;,- 
 
 aii .ii ill !\ jirnci i',i-il 111 ihr st,i_ , inr | ., in Mia . 
 
 I ) 1 !i\ Is ,1 haci.|s,i:ii.. alihi.a:. h !M a lit tow i:. c i!i:a iiii :_ 
 a" I' I'll ihini-.imi iiih.iliiiaiils. It js < , h In ao .1 Inr ;> 
 \l' aH\r sil!^ lailh. 
 
 o I . I . I ;
 
 146 A JOUR.VAI. Oh TRAvKLS jys" 
 
 The Scotch rebels in IY45 made no farther progress 
 south than this phice. Tlie celebrated Dr. Darwin resi- 
 ded here. 
 
 Our route to Leicester was through a most enchanting 
 country. The distance from Derby is twenty-eight miles, 
 and the scenery in every part of the way was beautiful in 
 (he extreme. The surface was generally level, adorned 
 with frequent groves, neat hedge rows, and verdure so 
 deep and rich, that it resembled rather green velvet than 
 grass. The fruit trees were in many instances in blossom, 
 and gave an air of gaiety to the villages and towns through 
 wliich we passed. Among the chief of these were Lough- 
 borough and JMount Soriel. 
 
 Leicestershire is a county of great agricultural wealth, 
 and celebrated for an excellent breed of shee|) ; they are 
 not of the largest species, but very fat, with abundant 
 ileeccs of line wool. 
 
 LEICKSTER. 
 
 Mai/ 18. 1 rose at 6 o'clocJc this morning, and having 
 some little time to spare, before the setting out of the 
 coach, I employed a part of it in walkinir aronnd the 
 streets of Leicester. I cannot, however, pretend, from 
 such very limited observations, to give an account of the 
 town. Most of those streets through which I jiassed, 
 Avere narrow, but there was a tolerai)U' number of good 
 buildings. I regret that I had not time to see the remains 
 of an ancient and very extensive castle, formerly l)e!i)nging 
 lo the great Duke of Lancaster, and it w(jukl have given 
 ine still greater pleasure to !i;'.vi' vi.-ited Bosworth Fields, 
 ueariiiis town, where }i)u will rr'mcmber that Henry \ JT. 
 (lion Lyrl of Kiclunond. gained tiie crown of Lnaland..
 
 fNf.l.ANU, ll<>l.!.AM) \M) ll \M> 
 
 , 111 1 1 Uili ir.i III. lust 1 1 Willi 1;,- lii.'. I 11' I,- .111' 1' w ( Afi.r- 
 
 III I -ll.ll-ll Ili-t'U \ . W li!.-ll rx. It,. ,1 ijli'l"' '!;> I .il iilli'ffvt : 
 Uk' s'.,il^r u ;is a Kiip_r, !.,':!. lii, illararlrl-. <! liir n inih.lt- 
 .iiils Wi-ir sjilt'inii.l. , 1 t'l.i! (i[ Ivicl:,!!',!. <-jirci iii\, was 
 Mil I'liiiiili'ii witii <i k.i:.ii i>i .ttruciuiis aiul >.iiii:niii,ir\ :ji<-;it- 
 
 11' >s. llrvplrs. tile _<!lill>ul" >ll,lkrv[irarf llllS ,ul(|.'l a 
 
 fax' iiialii 111 to lli<- -iilij''!'!. \Ui!<'li iiiak'-s US iiiiauiiH; that \> 
 lisli'll tu tllf Ll n.i'.i- \S nil il ui-t,il lied tlif >Iiiliiiit IS i.l'tlir 
 li>\a! iiiiiri!i 111. i.ii ill.- iiijiii h.iiirc tin- lal.il iiM.icsi. ai:tl 
 
 r,T'i-i s ;|s III li' ;! iiiiii cxc lailll. .iIlihNt llir dill i<\ li.itll'-. 
 
 lll\ kill'J'luin I'll- a l:ll;^l ' \l!<r niifll'- lir-ll 1 1< I iulltfi i 
 w il'i ,1 1 11 11- iii~ini :i li (li ,ima. Ill pM.-iii, In- is a!v. a\ s |irniii- 
 t'l 111(11 , 'iM 111 li,. iarls as tin- |Hi' I. ami iiut as tl:<' liistmi- 
 .111 lia- M-latid il,i-iii. Willi lias iint siihsiitntii I tlir ['ara- 
 fiis.- whii'ii Ml!;. HI lias ],aii!lii|, iasliaij nl llir sHuii'j lait 
 iiii uiajiliii' -!.';! li I'l lli. s, i j|i|i|i , s ; and wlm liiasn.it 
 ci iiii i-i\ 1- oi |J'>i;a.rd as >;Mlvc^]icai ! and uul as I luiiir lia.s 
 di a \ui I (ill I .- 
 
 1.1 111 -1 11 ( iiiil.ii.is aii'i'it -i\li 111 lliuMsaiid ildialiit lilts ; 
 i; SI II, ;> ivi.,, nil ailiiis t.i Tarli, Hill 1,1. and is tin- cajiital nl 
 l.ii.-i St. ,.!,:r, . Ca.iiiiid W ii1m_\ dud Im !.. and In i-' 
 
 Hall II. i ill. Wasiiiiiiid. \t ill.' l|.-j:iMlillL' n! till l,i>l 
 
 I-. :.Iai\ iiisiiiiiiM wis(iM\.;I.d iniM a trmi di !. .r In.: -. s 
 In iliiiik niit 1)1. ami u Is a' ti: ili\ n-. d Imlliat [iri[."" '.' 
 a l)ii!iiii'diiiiisf ill til's ti^iw |i.
 
 141 A JOVRNAt OF TBAVEL8 IN 
 
 No. IX. LEICESTER TO BIRMIXGHAM. 
 
 Ride to Coventry LatJIes and hand-boxes Coventry election 
 Crowd Confusion ut.ioar Drunkenness Ludici-ous scene 
 Violence of English elections Stage coach conversations, 
 
 P.IDE TO COVENTRY. 
 
 At 7 o'clock, A.M. I stepjK'd into the coach for Bir- 
 mingham. It was a small vehicle, capable of carrying 
 four passengers inside with convenience, and six with diffi- 
 culty. Although I had a priority of claim, I found five 
 ladies already seated in the coach, and some of them were 
 such beauties as Addison says are estimated at Haarlem 
 by weight. Four of them carried huge [)and-hoxes in 
 tlieir laps, and the fifth an mfaut. Tn so small a carriage, 
 and under such circumstances, you cannot but suppose 
 that an additional one must iiave occ;;>ioned some incon- 
 venience. J uas oblfg'd to sit sidev.ise, witii one arm 
 out of the coach, and ( fiund mv companions so little 
 disposed for conversation, and the situation so uucomtur- 
 table, that, before we had travelled a mile, 1 relinquished 
 my seat in r:i\"0';r oi' the Indii's, and monatcd tiio roof of 
 she coach. 
 
 Tliree cir f.,\\r mile^ iiom Leii-ostr-r v. e passcil i](is- 
 \orlh i'ields ;it *-ome dist:itire: the coachiiian pointed 
 tiit'm c,\i* to ?ni\ Wc jKisst-.! t!a'(i!!!;!i Xuncaloi!. a coii- 
 sidcraijle tov.!(, and as we approaclifd Coventry, thfi 
 coimtty !)! ( anv^ luxuriantly beautiful. Vv'c .saw frt.'<[ueni 
 coal uiitif '. and wiiile tlicy rhanc:ed horses we loolvcd at 
 the mouth oi' on;\ Tiie access v.as down a pit. j)recise]y 
 TfKC ;i wcl'. ouiv nmch wider; tiirouLdi this openinir tlie
 
 I\..I.\M>, UmI.I.AVI) and MdTI.AM). 
 
 i^l 
 
 mul is ilrauii up bv inraii-; ot iiiaciiiiK r\ , aii'i tin' pcoplr 
 aii'l iiii[iU'iut'iit> art' let tlnwu. 
 
 (()\ r.N IKS i.i,i:ciif)v 
 
 \\ li'Mi u' aiiiMd at ( UN riitiA . uc loiiiid till' >tr< tl 
 Ir.niiu'j til tin- inn ulna-c wr \<,<i, to diui', so (ihslruclid 
 b\ iTowils dl' picijilr. that we uiTf CMinpflliil to stop the 
 Ciiarl, at a ron^idi rahlc tiisiann' Imiii tlif liousr, and to 
 make our \\.i\ a> wi-ll as Uf couM, with no small incon- 
 \ I ii!i i;,r, ami >u\\\r lia/aiil ol 1)1 in_; pn N>ril nioif than 
 \\a^ piili'ills ,i^it <aiili'. 'I'lif Ljic,iti-i <io\\.l w > iiiinir- 
 (lialiK Ik Imc our liooi. auil \\r liaiau'il llial it \\a> occa- 
 siou'-il li\ a (onti'!iil 1 lirihin. at that nanuiiit licM. lor a 
 niiiulii 1' ol' I'arliaini'iii lor ('o\t litis. I liail licant niiii ii 
 ci Kii'^lisli rlictioiiN. aihl tliiiiiL:lit iii\>fir \i lA loituuati' iu 
 lia'.iiii: an opjHU lunilv to Mr ili. Iiusilr ni xncji an orca- 
 
 ^inU. I''ll I am ijililr sa!|v|i,ii uitll <inr I xliiliilinll dl ihr 
 
 kiikL Hi'i ilo 1 vsi-li (All |o lit Imlil anoilnr. I'or. la \ii 
 111 lull' liiil I w ii la ~- --uili a ^1 'nr III ill (mki'imcNs. muoai 
 and rmt. 'I'lir .i iiius ol M'linjal oi' ol II uiiili: as .iloiK' 
 mi,!'! ron\ I \ to \ on an ailrijiiali' nli a ol a -lati' ol tliiir:-, 
 i!i \shii ii \sas mo-i loirilils i \liiliiliii llic ma|cst_s ol llio 
 
 -o\ 1 I 1 i_ll p' opir I Xni'.sinv llio lijlll ol l/llfii<lss: il -ulli J".-. 
 
 Tia' ran.miaii - \\f\< :\ 'Ir. Mill> ol ( o\ mtiA and a \\\\ 
 I'.ii \ i.r laaiMoi!. Til' li:. nd-o! \I r. 1' u r_v alli d^ri i 1 :ial 
 >lr. ^Iills u I- ; la ad l.i tin nrli : tiial In- was ni I.i- 
 
 NiHli '.i . aalo^lirj till' I omilhUl land, wllli ll \\oi|M ilMUlc 
 ti;i' p^'oi' ; alio :ii ^iaiit. dial !io was an aii^toriat. and did 
 < '{ 1 ai (' lor ill. p'-opir. Ill :a\ Hill ol ^Il . I'ai r\ !iit\ ^a. id 
 il! cl Ik u as llir p. ,ip!i "- ^,^ /,-/. 
 
 1 1 ^11 111 - 1 1 III I 111- \ 1 o 1^ a I I aijli^li 1 111 t loiis do not in i > 
 >.'i!\ i'^:'' Il 'il'' si;.,t ; mans l)\r in n mom i,,\\ 'is. and
 
 150 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS Ift 
 
 wlien the period of the election arrives they are transport- 
 ed to tlie plaee by the candidates whose cause they espouse, 
 and are maintained by them free of expense during the 
 contest, which frequently lasts two or tiiree weeks. It h 
 stated, in extenuation of this practice, that some of the 
 electors, and especially mechanics and labourers, cannot 
 afford to leave their homes and pursuits, to travel to a 
 distant county, and remain at their own charge during a 
 contested election, and that therefoi'e it is but reasonable 
 that the candidates should sustain this expense. However 
 plausible this statement may appear, it is certain that it is 
 only an apology for an indirect species of bribery, not less 
 effectual than the direct giving of money. For, under the 
 pretence of maintaining th jir voters, the candidates buy 
 them with wine, whiskey and dinners, for he is always the 
 best patriot who gives the people the most good things. 
 
 In this instance the adherents of the two rival candidates 
 were distinguished by papers on their hats, having the 
 names of the men whom they supported written upon 
 thein. The poll was held in a building, which appeared 
 to be the market, and the respective parties were striving 
 each to prevent the other from getting u{) to the poll to 
 give in their votes. For this purpose they did not hesitate 
 to use every degree of violence short of blows. The con- 
 test was princi[)ally in pushing; the two contendinsr par- 
 ties were arrayed in op])osition, like two armies, and when 
 they came up to the poll, the two fronts met, and in every 
 instance a violent contest ensued ; hands to hands, face to 
 face, shoulder to shoulder, and when one ])arty gave way, 
 the other would press tumultuously on. till all fell in a pro- 
 miscuous Iieaj). l^iien the victorious Jiarty, risinji iVom 
 ftfftheir fallen antagonists, would shout, vociferati>ig Ijuz-
 
 K\..i \\i>. iioi.i.wn AMI M.iTi wn. 
 
 I.'l 
 
 i>. lliniwi;!' till ir liats iiitn tlic air. iunl iii;il^iii'_ it liiiL' 
 uilli MilU' MilU .' or I'.irrs .' I'.iiiv ! acriuiliir.: as one 
 iir till' oilur juivaili'd. in tlir--r ctintr^ts. \v|ii( li niijHMrcd 
 til ii''. ill till' main, rather ^i<n,\ naliirfil. iiiili\ iiliiaN c ra- 
 sii>nill\ kiiidji'd iiiti. raLTf. and IjIimkIv iiost*., and lorn 
 rnats and sliirts wfif n-nalK tin- in!isc(|iirn('('. I sas*- onr 
 man who Iiad h)>t tii-- coat and liall his shirt, and his hlccd- 
 iiiL' liark and taci' wryr niarki'd uith th<' lahuis oi' soinr 
 ri\al \(>ti'r. Mtliou'jli it was a 1 inniiiahh' pici ne ol hn- 
 nian iiainrr. on.- .onld not hut considi-r it as a url! acKii 
 laici', and notw itlisiandin'_r the icjiri uhirh onr cihK-atcd 
 a rt'pnhliran would U<-\ at ihc '.'ros^ ahusr (j|' tin' hi'dicsl 
 rrjiuhhcan ini\ ih _<. it u as inipos^iM,. i,, liclp hin'.diiii _ al 
 .so iu(hrrous scini'. 'I'ln- rnoh wry,- all inonarrlis. lor ihcy 
 wrn- al! nois\ and all drunk."' 'I hr ihi'rnaic \ irt.irs-, 
 in till' int>-r\ als ol' ilir com > -sis. suuj a kind of choruv. with 
 loud acclamations, ir-tmn- 'ji'siurcs. and cou\ nlsi\ c cxju'-'s- 
 sions oi' |o\ in ihrir icatmcs, 'Ih'' hotil.' wiiit inciiiiv 
 roinid. o\ I'r tlii' In ads o| tut- j lo jiu la cr. and ;l \\ is annisiu'^ 
 fUoULdi to sec the aildrcss nscd to ijit il to ih' nioiiih. 
 The crowd was s(. 'jrc it. and '.in h the caji-nicvs lo sci/c 
 th' lioidc. that il was consianlU held up, at aiiiTs l.'ii. th. 
 aho\ e the head, and thus ii nio\ ed on in the an . one man 
 x\ !-eviiii._f it 1101,1 another, and soiueimn's hall a do/.eti 
 haiid^ had hold o| il at mice. \l leii'jih sonic one iiioio 
 res.ilute than Ins mcrhhoius. or h-ss drunk than ihes. 
 wiMild ;ras|. the lio'.ile. and \\ In 11. with much elioi t. it had 
 ycijMiied a deiei mniale dir.i iioii to\\,ii.is a parlicnlai 
 till oat . so 'J I eit u Is the I u slim ' and - ho \ m j. th.it tiie \\\U- 
 nmuilied e\|ieiia:ii would somiiiiues make seveiid nn- 
 
 s'lCee^l ll atlemlils to ci,^^; his l,!), niHMI ihe no//!e. uiu'
 
 152 A JOURNAL OP TKAVELS fN 
 
 in the mean time, the liquor wouhl be running iu stream;: 
 into his face and bosom. 
 
 Even the softer sex seem to be inspired with the mad- 
 ness of the occasion. Tliey were to be seen standing on 
 heads of barrels, on the street-railings, and wherever else 
 they could hnd situations a little more elevated and secure 
 than the ground ; and occasionally they mixed with the 
 crowd, joined in the strife and acclamations, and encour- 
 aged their husbands, brothers, and lovers by reproaches 
 and praises, frowns and applauses, according as the parties 
 whose cause they favoured were victorious or defeated. 
 
 The parties were very neaily eqwal in numbers, the con- 
 test had already continued several days, and it was thought 
 it would cost Mr. Pairy of 20,000. lie was present and 
 was pointed out to me, standing among the crowd. I 
 know not whether this election is to be regarded as a fair 
 sample of similar thiugs in Lngland, but I recollect to have 
 heard a gentleman say, at L!veri)ool, that these contests 
 sometimes end in blood ; that he had seen them, on some 
 occasions, un})avea wiiole street, when every window and 
 lamp would Hy to pieces. Such violence of course endan- 
 gers life, and if no fatal consequences ensue, it is not be- 
 cause they might not have been expected. 
 
 They inforn)ed me at Coventry tliat Mr. Parry was 
 supported by a powerful money interest, and might there- 
 fore prevail, but that Mr. Mills was universally preferred 
 by the more considerate and substantial part of the com- 
 munity.* 
 
 At 3 o'clock we proceeded through a country less fertile 
 than that which we liati passed in the morning ; the villagr 
 
 ^ I urulprslood, after my ar"iv.)il in London, tliat Mr. Mills gain-
 
 tNwl. \NI), HOLLAND ANO M()TL\M.. i. 
 
 wl -Mtriilf'n ciinif in our wav, lii:l iii> town nf ;in\ iitipor- 
 taiii r oft lined l)tliir- r n a< lud r>iiiiii;i'4La i;, whirli we 
 ilui at hall [)Asi :> t)'(:lo(k, I*. M. 
 
 SI \(.K COACH (IN\ J:K-^\ llONS. 
 
 A >taL'' (uacli is a plati' u iicir all aif. lor tlif time 
 lifiiil,'. (|ii;il. aii'l tlifici.'H' At'ry ime irrls at lil)<'rl\ tn in- 
 i1(i!j:i' iii,- own parlii'iilai- liuiiioiir, ^incf llx' law ^ ul' tl\is 
 iiMO>- i>| ira\ tlliiiL' iiiiiiovc no ntlicr it'str.iiiits th-iii llin^r 
 oi .'< la i.il ri\ iil;_\ . My ^llo^t i'\[H'iit iicc tjius t,ir, AJiihits 
 l.iij.i^ii niaiiii'M> a- btiii^' in this r''^jir(i \iv\ similar to 
 ih"^'' III (,'11 i-(iO;itr_\ . TIk' I .ii'jli-li -taL"'- <''iacli i^ Iioucv- 
 < T nincli |i, It' r aMa;.!' ! to cniiv i'i>aiioii tli.iii lh>' iiiiMi;\t u- 
 ii'Di \i'!nii< - i:; '.\l.ir!i uo lia\>'l. la tlio Iwinur liic |i:!>- 
 -1 ii'j'! N all' a > - ^iI. ;ai::r' at ! ;.-t a |m: 1 ul llnlr i > 'H'j' ^i- 
 ioiis. f 11 t'l'- ! i:;^' r.Mrli. i!ii- .Io.m i, Liliinl. a I id I w ' i ..;-, 
 
 lar ini larli -ilr. i\ti-|i.i aliMlJ till- \\ImI"- Ii-I!jtll I'l IllO 
 iiM' ll. -II l'; M rl;f ri':i!ji,ill\ i< di\idi'd illin Iwn [illlns 
 w h'l !i ii.ik I oh I it 111 i 111 ill-' la.i'. Ill till' I'liirr inai Ins 
 till If arc. imao 'jiii'ia!l\. iwn^-at^ ai raivji ;l likrtliuM^ 
 it' a pi i\ ,itf riiarh and ii;I' iidi d tn arri iiiiiiH 'date -i\ [i. r- 
 >iin-.. ( (era- a mail;, lliiii; i - an iiio riii. . ii.io- si.ii. \s 
 w t' \v 1 II' I id 111 J . a I a jar 111 (III I aiii'j litmi I Jir_li. I In |ii \ r. a ad 
 ija---i:rj !i\ a (iiiais > at. a 'jriii !i-!iia:i in tlif -la. a. ii'- 
 la II kid 1.1 III'' : I li. la- -ir. i- tin' -.at .ill..'i.; I'. I. ii- 
 iiiiH. wli'i \\,i- li.-i'ali 111 d ii\ < ii'i:. r.niLiiMa' In r.oiv 
 l;iiiiii' till- lU'w - lint i!"i/ ri III !< un'ild n-a iniimt liini \o 
 .Ma|aii \ii'ii ii'Mi'iN."' I ill' _' !i;Ii'ai 01 \\a'- rniii'Ct. 
 ! .10 d !'. ti i-li on w .IN .K'inalh --nt i 'ii tin- -I'l \ ii i-. an.| al- 
 dii iirjli till I I'lii 11 k \\ a-- mail.' w illi an ri-.-nnnd ,iir ul plia-.- 
 
 oili \ . ii u,i- I ili\ am-K niti'i I'd w r II -uini'tliiii.' mtv. iiiui Ii 
 l.d.i' rliaji in. In ! 'J. liii'- .,' nil in oi. a niim a a 'iIj' ra! \i\"-
 
 154 A JOCRXAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 fession, that of the law, discovered, during the day, no small 
 disposition to sneer at America. INumerous enquiries were 
 made on th.e part of my com])anions, who appeared not 
 less solicitous to be informed conccrninfr my country tiuui 
 I was conceruincf theirs. An intelligent and modest qua- 
 ker, discovered much curiosity on the subject of Ameri- 
 can manners and institutions, which led me to explain theni 
 to him at some length, and he seemed delighted that a 
 transatlantic country should so much resemble England ; 
 he aj)peared never to have formed any very correct ideas 
 of the state of society in America, having doubtless con- 
 cluded, with too many of his countrymen, that as we arc 
 young, we must be ijfnorant, and, as we arc a great way 
 from England, we must be barbarous. In this worthy 
 man, 1 found however much candour, which made him 
 treat me with kindness and confidence, while his own in- 
 telligence enabled him to impart, valuable information con- 
 cerning the country through which we were passing. He 
 was a citizen of Manchester, and we found that we had 
 both been present at Mr. Dalton's lecture, on Monday 
 evening, a circumstance which excited some little interest, 
 and alforded conversatlun. The gentleman of the law 
 listened to me with an air of incredulity anil contem[)tu- 
 ous irony, which was manifested by occasional remarks, 
 inuendoes and (juestions. I'articularly, he enquired 
 what was the ireneral price of LTOod land in America rented 
 for twenty one years, and I replied that rents were scarce- 
 ly known in my country, and therefore it was not easy to 
 answer his (juestion, since most of those who cultivated the 
 soil owned it hi fee. simple, for which reason the subordi- 
 nate; estates v.hich were so common in England, such as 
 1-ifo estates, and e>t;itf's for terms of vear^ and at will, rare.-
 
 1- N-;i.A Nil. (ior.i.ANri am) >."'ni v>i< 
 
 1 
 
 i\ f'Xisti'ii with I1-. TIlC |i('ii|ili' \M-IC ill L'" II' 1 'il til" lil.l'-llill- 
 di-llt til lir iiiiiin tlif iH'crsNiiv III' lioliliiij i.iinl "ii ilin-c 
 
 tcrill^. 'l'\i]< illl'iirilKllinll he ,I|i|iM! cl In CiMi-hl'T ;|N ;il 
 
 om ! inn<''li!i!t'. ami a n'lliTtinii mi I'.iiulaii'l. \t iliiin.-r. 
 till' i-.iiivfr^aliiiii \\a^ cuiitiiiaril uiih iljc sanir uiiiinlili' 
 iiiaiiiii'i'. till I clirckril ii 1)\ ii'iii irkiiii til him in answer 
 
 til iMlc lit' his (|il''Ntiii||N. thai I lhii|l_'!lt it illlitr ll-rlr-v ti 
 
 ,'itiiiii|it til iiiipart am iiiliiriiiaiinii In hiin ciMiriTiiiiiLr 
 Aliniii a, I ^|ii'i'iall\ il' ihr l.itli 1' cnlllltlA Wen* rr| H rvriurd 
 a^ Hi an\ n -jiiTt I rpial I" I .njaiiil. ami imich inni r. il^ii- 
 ji' iH'i'. Iiir. ill viicii iM'-i' thi' naii'.iiiiai \va-> con-iilci-ril as 
 nl' i'ii'ir>f im'ii''liiili'. ami iinihinL' h >s than an >"ili "jiiiin mi 
 ih'- iMir i'iiiiiiii\ . ami a v.itin' mi tin' Mtln i-. w.miM an-.\viT 
 ihi |iin]iii^r. I I'l' ihi- tiiiii till' riii\ I iN,ii|. Ill \\,is iiiiii'- 
 iiijiiiil li\ that imiili- i^aiM s:|i'iirr whirii u^iialK -~miii.lv 
 thi' lii'vt iiiiiiralii ai^ I'l nIliMiia'. till winr i'_'alii ii 1 imiI mii 
 Icaiiiii's lain a --iiiili . iii'i vmiMiihi il ii\i r thi' i-p. iiln ^ !! 
 ti.i' aniiiii'iil. li; till' jii.ijrivv 1,1 \\\,- al'iriiiHiii iinwiAii- 
 
 thlv 'Jrlllh Ml III I'l'-Mlllril lllv ;nl liiir vir.lill. Illll III llll.; Ill) 
 
 iI;- j in v|i 1,111 im iiiiiii! ji' it, 1 a^'si il III in \v la i In r In- w a^ imt 
 (vtMiiivln-il !> v,-.- ;iii \imiiiMa. arlim!'', w.ilViirj lani, 
 liki' I ir hiuiii 11, aiM whrlhia la' wa- ii.a vin|iiivi'i| that 
 iii\ h liiii- ami lii't \\<\r mil lliihiil la rii\iai'il uiih hair, 
 ami iii\ t' I. 's a III I liinji r> ai iiii i! \\ ilii lalmiv i ,i rl,i\\ -. I 
 (viHiMi a In I'la n.| haii. hut ]> av-u mil iiaa h iinai- jan- 
 jH il t\ nl' 111 uim 1 -. ami ia tla' i a I lii'ha\ i ! vn ilh il^ liiMrv 
 ,111.1 im ' -' \ . 
 
 \ I 1 , :: - r II I .1 HI -Il J-. h-' V. Ill I -1 I \. lilt In iii\ if 
 
 !ji.' In ill- r. ;ii : miji ii'il ,i Imwl nl' w.iiiii |iiiiirh. aial -n- 
 
 liiiiil la.' In pm :.! l-,i' : ui' Ihi ana' -m i i| : rn,i\ la -a; inti 
 
 il.iv. nl. ,i!!.| In nw m i| tint u lifii I -a a I I \\ is iml .m I ai- 
 
 !, iiiiaii. Ii" \\ i~ -'iriai'j'-i!, in 1 \i. ia ii J aa^wi .li i:n. in ',:'.
 
 156 A JOCKNAL OP TRAVKL3 IN 
 
 successive remarks : " if you arc not an Englishman then 
 you are a Scotchman : and, if not a Scotchman certainly an 
 Irishman," his surprise was incrtased to astonishment, for 
 it seemed never to have occurred to him that one born out 
 of the British Isles could possibly be so much assimilated to 
 a native in speech and deportment. Incredulity is often 
 founded on i<rriorance, and no whf re is it manifested with 
 more strength than in the ui-nd preference given to one's 
 ov, -! country, without a knowledge and proper estimation of 
 the claims of other countries. In the lower orders of so- 
 ciety, whom inressant labour precludes from information, 
 we more naturally expect and more easily pardon a degree 
 of ignorance and consequent prejudice which disgraces a 
 gentleman, and especially a man of letters. 
 
 We were about to pursue different wa} s in the morn- 
 ing, aiid, on ])arting, my companion made me acquainted 
 with his name and place of residence, which was in Lan- 
 cashire, and invited me to visit him. lie bore tin* name 
 of a distinguished author,* (long since dead) and inf^imed 
 me that he was of the same family. 
 
 In the course of this daj'^s ride, 1 was directly interro- 
 gated concerning jny name and personal history. This 
 kind of curiosity is probably common to every country, 
 except in those places where nuich familiarity with stran- 
 gers has p.ro(hiced an ecjual indifference to all. A man 
 might live fifty years in a in'tat city and no on.' would 
 enquire v,ho he was, but lie C(<uld not reside t]iret> weeks 
 in a village without being interrogated as to liis private 
 history, and criiirised on every topic from liis reliLnon to 
 his du'ss. ,:lt''oi;gh this cuiifjsity is in some measure 
 
 - Oi)c of the iijo.^t cclcbraletl cu the Ki);;!!:.!! Es'iui,-!';,
 
 ;'!ipiTriip III. il is ir;il!>, li,ii:i:'i --. iiiid mi. ii; to !.f tr- .ittil 
 ^^ ill -'<!. \ iMtiiif ami HI' I-! _i iii'r. 
 
 \, 11 i:irKl.'\ .;,.. t;i!.|i: ill !,,],, 11 ^ ' : ' > l' p im, lit ,i 1 i : - 
 , 1 1; 111! Ill 111 tllf I'lll! !^!l .11 .M \ , ti 'iM, a . ,1 w ,|M i:'i 111 : iir 
 
 I-'-.!. .!i:.i I 1;,. i 1 ' . ;!. >:;. i' iii- < :;-i-'n; i i i" . : ,ii' ;- 
 
 II. I !' Im- Mi.t I, ; ;r|ii ! i'; !!! ill. \\'r-l lii Hi >. W '.i ;. 
 
 i 11 p; 'i. II ^t ill. 'Ill 'I SI A I'll _\ I .-. ,up| w .1 i. M, l.i'i. \ .;._ 
 
 . I ..1 i, T. , :. .il I -. . ' . \|1. i.iii I.: lllii;- (" ' I !:. I r. 
 
 i ' : !:i\ iP; IP .1 1 ,1 i!p' -, 
 
 ',i.i...--l. ! s .IS VI \ _i '.].!. .1)1 ! ill. ; '.::! ' ' .1 r:;i- 
 ' i";i- t'iiV;n'\. .'viiw aipi i .r\ p: ri.'iii i . ' . > i > 
 
 , lip.l 1 ,.' : M '. ( -'P. i.i ''li- \^ 
 
 i ;- . I !,' I'.iii-i IP.. iH'p iiiiisi 
 
 p.i ill. I r 
 \ ' 1 . . I . 
 
 : I.. I' w p.,!. a 
 ' \ . t ' I i 1 1 \ p , 
 
 I ,
 
 laS A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IX 
 
 his belief, that on the accession of the Prince of Wales, 
 the Duke of York must retire in favour of the Earl of 
 Moira. 
 
 No. X. BIRMIXGIIAiVl TO L0XJ30X. 
 
 BirmiMgham Watt and Holton Dr. Priestly Kiue lo ONford 
 Stratford on Avon Caution in descending lii'.!-; \Vtujdstoulc 
 Oxford Costume of the academies Grandeur ;uu] beauty of 
 die town Ride (o London Henley B;>aii*y or t!ie country 
 \ beggar Approach to the metropolis K'i'i'pi'ici Hounslow 
 heath Arrival in London. 
 
 BIRMIXGHA^I. 
 
 The environs of this to\vn, \\hi<'i -iauJs on a side hill, 
 are very beautiful. As we njipruachcd, we discovered it 
 to be a great city, api)arei:ilN c ([ual in extent to Xew-York 
 or Philadelphia. Its ]>ujH'.!:ir'on is about 73,000. Tlie 
 lower town, which is the oh; part, is crowdi^d and (hrty : 
 it is filled with vv'ork-shops a:ul waie-!iouses. Indeed, 
 had we not known that we Iiad arrived in a trrent nianu- 
 facturincf town tlie i'act would have been siifncieiuly ;tii- 
 nounced, by the disa;ri'eeable funtes and mixed ehluvia 
 which loaded the air as we drove into the thicket of houses, 
 and by the fuliginous tinge which ev(>ry tliina iiad acquir- 
 ed. You will doubtless think it strange that I have se(;n 
 ahno'^t nothing of tlie manufactures of Dirminghani, cele- 
 brated as it is all over the world for its curicus produc- 
 tions, especially tliose formed from the various metals. 
 The hi)/iilv characteristic desi,i;natioii of JMr. Bur]^c 's not
 
 t.M.l \M). H.i;.l.\M AM) .-(.'ri '.Ml. 
 
 !''.' 
 
 I. s- tlllr l'..Ul II 1^ I'InI. I..;- !>iri.;illL'il.llil ;>. H'^t III! I. I_\ Ili' 
 t(A-v!i,r, ..| r;,ii , jif. il 1^ :ii:i! i^i ill'' l(.\ -^.'i.i'ji iiTiIk- \\ ,,! li!. 
 It ;. i), -H.'-s 1.1 rc!::;i;d \ :i ll: a il is in l!i'- t..''V !1 \h.'\ 
 \\ ,,;t ;ii!,I l'.'il;> U i .i\i . !% M' il's ,; llh' s!, Mil ( I ::!, , :\- 
 -ii ;i I'li-iliiv ;.;m1 i'\;ii (inioii in in.iiinl'r t'lniu n'.:-ti\'. 
 V'.liiili \v::s !ti;,ill\ ni;!^;h i\'. ii lull .i c. I ii;hl lii>\s-\'i' im 
 iin|n . (.i' -i'( ill-; ilii '.: ( vt,;!ij|vliiii> I, I. ;is liny li' ';, ;i'!iii:I- 
 i.ii.i-f t" i'!. u:;!:' Ml (ii-iiiic-liiiii. li i> v.i'i,! liiai iji,. !)i,l,f 
 1 I Ni'i.'i'.iv l.!li'!\ i;i I'.- I ;!' iiiK \ ipMu l.i'ii.i'in. I'n [mi- 
 |i.'M' ;,i -! i!.' - ' w . iks. Lit u;i< ill i;ii' I ;i.ii!,(tt,iiii'''. ll 
 W .;v liiMV . \ . ! ,il\ ll' IM l<i ii.l\ f -I:ii<l ,il I'.! I ! ili ir. 1 1 i M s( \ r- 
 
 1 I .;.". s. Ill : M!( ;i'i-i ii;i'' -. \^ liii'li ll is iuui''''i'^- n- , I. 
 
 Mr;',;:"!! ii'ii', I' ii'li'i'-ii il i.i(iis;ii'ns:i!ilr' ilitt | -iin i'.,! j,],, 
 
 ' '! iiuiin ':i.,ii 1\ lo i,"i;iliiii. I'luiii |i.t-i 'ii^il u'i>'i\.i- 
 
 i' :!. I iviiiiu I'n i.'l'iri' in 'ihiii'j ni"i'' "I I'mi:!!'! Ii.im l'. i:' 
 
 '. ii:it '-iMiM !" ! .;-|;, ,i 111 - IIM-W ImI I.-s I'liiii ; AM ll"i;,-. 
 \S il!' II W I'l r ^M ;! l.I i;ii-i^ i'!\ ill U ; 1 1 k i 1 1 '/ a 1 1. H 1 1 I ! r ' st it i I ^ 
 
 111 ll! .ii'i I' III > i| ill'- I i\\ 11 (' Mil:, li'.s iiiaii\ ll' \\ Stl 1 I ;^. 
 I a u 111' ll ill'- !ii:'l'li" '- .Ml ii'_ :;: :r iiihi li:ini '-' 'iiu'. In lli- 
 \ ll mil;. i>r ilir ( ;l_\ . llii\ i i,ii;t< ,! nni i,i nn- liir i i;lii> n!' .i 
 <.iiiiill\ -I ll. (l'-Ili.\i i !.\ l':.- iiii.'p wi.irli Iriiiil Di. 
 !':i.-ll;.'- il'i'l-r. S I' i: \ .1 : i|:m.i ;~ i ! i ~ J 1 irt ! i,l to ll- 
 
 I' ' . :i::;i ;i:'.> It 11 ;i -:t ,'11 ^ : ,''!i nii Ilii ;iiiii_ ', mih. 
 
 \ ii'i li :i. Iiiiiii., .! -; 1 i'i,,i( !i ;::-! -ill ill . I'-i ;,ii- ( >\ 
 : M'i. I ;""', i,r V ,r i.) [I, ,(. ai s.-m n c", !,,, U u; i:;. cV' - 
 
 i ' 1 ..' \\ :is 11 il .. .l';,) l,.i |i nil .,; . 1.1,1 ,. 'ill Hi 'i> liill. 
 
 :!: I I i' 'I ', h.-ii 1'. . Win''' I III ll lii i'.\ -1 1 a \ rlii'i s. ill 
 
 llll'lli J W l.'i'M \\ 1 , I MM 1 ,il I. ill, ill V. VS I 1 i 
 
 II 11' ll' ll li'v .1 1 I ! ! i ,i:i. 1 1 \i ;is ,1 SI I ! 1,1 r I nl M I i"lls | i - 
 ;" f lil.i; I \\ :i- r..Mi| , I,, .1 i,, ..,, ; ;.i , .. ;_ ii .iip, |,;;it . ( I i:_- 
 
 < I lia- ' I ,1.1; \ lli;-' :;. I: \vl,;:|i I :!,
 
 100 A .TOfRNAL OP TRAVELS IX 
 
 passed, without spoiiip; il, ( shall bay iittle more tlian that 
 we supped in the town of Stratfoic! on Avon, memorable 
 as having- been tiie biri); ijluce of S/iakspeare. They 
 pointed out tlie ch'^ter of houses, in one of whicli he was 
 i)Oi'ii. h was jiiidiH;.dit wii'Mi we arriv^xl in tiie town : 
 except at tiie inn, tiie Inludjitants wore all asleep, and 
 therefore i conld not visit S'lakspeare's monument, whieli 
 is stili standina; in the chtu'ch. 
 
 We jnissed through mae.y towns and \illai':es, and over 
 a conn.tr}' in sonne places very hill}". Tliey took ihe wise 
 ])rec;iu.tion of ehaiuin-; a wlieel* at the lop of every sleep 
 hill, a practice vvliich is common in Enphmd, and which 
 is re:ui!-red doubly iiccessary by the 'jreat weight of peo- 
 ^)le and lu2','ra;re which an r:n,dish sta<:'e coach carries on 
 its I'oof. 1 have beoii oiic of a purty of eighteen, twelve 
 of whom w(.'re on the lop. 
 
 3Iui/ 19. The day had dawned when we drove into 
 Woodstock, and, through the grey of the morning, we 
 glanced at the magnificent palace of the great Duke of 
 jMarlfjorouc'li, erected for hh-A by the nation, to commem- 
 orate: the nuxst sj)]endid of his victories, and distinguished 
 bv the ti'iumjih^ut appellation of lih nhciia PcJace. 
 
 \Xi' f(;el slreiu.ly the vanity of military glory, when we 
 i-oncinbcr tiiat this co'eat man now lies as low as the thou- 
 sands who died on the fields (if Bleiiliciiii ! 
 
 " Our mclli(i(1 oi' sociii'iiiu llii.' \'> hie! i- ;!ii=. an ii'Oii -iiof. ^^Iiapcii 
 like ;! 'iiiiii^h, li;'nt lo >nil (lio curve of lln^ wiii'ii; iuul ju-^t large 
 Ciioii Ji lo I'frcivc its rim, i~ atlaclind to a cliaiii, aiul lliis i- made 
 last to till' hiial iiart o/' llic iVaaie work oi'liie carriai;o. AS'hcii it 
 is desired to -top tlu; molioii of a wlictd, lliis iron is sini])!;,- ilrop-- 
 |)cd on tiic i^.-oiind lirddiid ihs' wlifiid ; (lie piolioii soon drags the 
 ii'Ofi shi.c nMil'i' \\f wiK'fd, a;id the lallrr ridos in il widio'jt ^mIi 
 ii'r'iiir; I 111- \vii!'.'i i ^ in iin"."
 
 v\';i.\Nn, II. 1.1, WD AM) scMi \n;). 
 
 !M 
 
 .\'iii)>IiMii. ill his tiiiii. uill i'mIIdu i!iunc uhoin \\.- ^\,\\ 
 .it .Mari'iiL:ii ami l.dili. a:iii liiv ("tir-i', Hkf itif |;itli uta 
 iiwri (ir. luiniiioiis for a xUiilc. u ill liA<- on tin i \ r. am! nl- 
 tu:i,il( Iv Ih' uljNtaiifil li\ iIh^ nhli^ivin a ;r.'i -. 
 
 CKliMil is si\l v-ilii '! iiiiliN iiuiM l'iiiiii:i'jli.im. \\ ai- 
 n\<-(l ill llii' I'diiiiiT Inwii a liltli' alti |- Inar i.'iU'ck in tli'- 
 ainrmii;. ami I loiin.! a (inl'niia!)!.' Iir.l at the Auj'l in:'.. 
 
 ()\r<)Ki) 
 
 'I;,' -.nil I'aasiv winc'i pifs rii'n 1 1 iiir Iimih k ;nai;:nu; 
 I i! I'a ;,i;ir_ua;,i, Uiil i. i;.ii i- n:\ -;a\ in <>\i. i,i 
 .^. ' ^ii , ;, 1:. ii I -lull li'is i|.; winl In.' 1. a-"na!;!r (xi- riailiais 
 \<,\:. 1; \.ia \^iii Idiji i<\ nc. i\ in,: inl"! nialii ai runi . iinn_ 
 I!. I li.iwi \ >a- I r>_ii I till' lari'nin-! ini't' iIh |i -s. Ii'-ran-i I 
 li '.\ : II in Mcu to \ i-it ( )\I.imI a'. uin. w In ii I iiiii ni":*' a' 
 
 I ;ir !a:'.jn>' .n' iiaMlllmj inrunjli tin' ni.i.i ji-\:nl',i 
 '' 1 : - nL' in MMvi ,:, ! i- lin' ni": niiiL' ^i i , ,; r : !iai . in i a'' 
 ...[la n'l'iii, I \s < ai ;. i I in' rlnncli nl Si. ^l.l|\ . a.i .ia< a ail 
 < . a'lii- slun ini'-. Im I.iiiLin'j t" (^H' lai'- < ciS la 
 
 'I iir i)!'m-ia-> .iial -tn'liai;^ ..f liil> (\iK-l"- a'i' i;''' i. a. >' 
 .'. ' a a i lli>' 1)( -! < I iiaai u lii'li I i.a'. . in a >; in I ' a ! iii'l. 
 I ^a|i|iw>i- I 111- 'ji ail' a),ia win i." li\ i i > a it w a^ ! i; i'l ;> - 
 - I ' ; I In 1 1!. i_ \ . 1 1 1 X (iiN((iai M' \v a-. ,a -i a.i i an .:(.'< a: ' i t . 
 ar . in ^iv |i' la, a.! . . j;>a- ;ncnn.;s. aa.i <] _ ani. 
 
 I'll-' lal'a-. 1 - aa.l ^l a!' a!- a'l u.ar a 1m, m' h' . ' <'v. n 
 . I I'p ir i!:"- . 'Ai.a ii i^ liai liui ,a' nia. ,' i > ntli an n. - - 
 
 I li>- i' i! Ik .">> ti.'' ,a,",i in 1. . i: il ' 
 lai-. ( 'ji '.^ li'-tltnt'' i a I ,i!\ la i,, i 
 
 ; .,t.-.! ^ :' . . h' . ^.
 
 lG-2 A JOv:nNAL OF travels i.\ 
 
 der, of any kind, either for ornamciU oi use, and tinis the 
 face and ejcs are roni|)let('iy exposed to the weather. 
 On tJie very pinua'de of the cap ii fixed a scjiiare l)oard, 
 covered also witli bhick ; it looks as a thin book would 
 do, if laid on the crown of the head. From the middle of 
 this, a tassel falls over on one side of the head. Tliis is 
 tisnally black, but, in the case of noblemen, it is of jiold, 
 and th.ere arc other variations in the singular costume 
 which { have described, intouled to desigiiato acad(,"inic 
 as well as civil rank. ITie eii'ect of the wiiole is some- 
 what ludicrous. ;it the same time that it is arave and evni 
 solemn. \\ iici! the ntfinhers of the nnivei'sity aie out of 
 Oxford, they ihro'.v ofthisaarb, and appear like oilier 
 men. 
 
 \l the inn Wiie;-'; I lo('.;cd, ! accideiiiMlly !;;<! /'ir, 
 
 O . WV iind h.-cn at Vile Coilo-e t(^^'i]ier, 
 
 >{i:\)i- yi-;v:'s ai;i>. and o.- Im; '; of :;s, I believe, wonki 'lave 
 iho!urh; oi' ;;!' nrcM'-o; at (>\i';*id. \v e of course bccaine 
 n^sociiiles: ibr iv ',vas au i^il-ae-iin:'; d'-covery to lind an 
 ojd ai-qnab!;;^n(x; vdu're oiio s^jinosed liimsolf surrounded 
 oa!_> i)', -'raii":';'-;. aeo \. e ar:>-eed to travel ir London to- 
 
 'i\i\-.-t's e\-'!i:':-.; we (;:'';', i:i p'l''; ihe circuit of Ox- 
 ioi-'i ae'i i's <:!' hxi-;;, .;iKi \ie\i.ed lb.' <\i,'rlor of mixt ol 
 !:i'' :;'-a;>'ni;;' iiiiihi'i;;:-. .ovi the iii'.'i-iM of ;-')me. The 
 !i.;';M';-'>s ;u !' ;,"f'ari:Hi . i.i id;' iitriv oi a !i .i!.>w square: the 
 !;;!:;: ;;"' >;i;i't' iiu-jns ' (^ ail s^hi^:l !> c, Piiuioiil \ vcrdaut 
 r;'! ' . rai;:il. 
 
 iii.in' y>i [\v c'',!;:el- \\i -ava c^^i^uis oroduclion of 
 Hit. \\ u : '^ liio pi.iie'- oi a icn^. ',v:<\v l/v Irai iiiii' the 
 ii';;'~ '.1 : a-d uiih a 1k1 po'aa'. We v. ere iiifoi'med 
 dii.t one wl fJic i*H;i\;>. bv aaiUoiii": Jibasclf ^^ Itb bui'uinu: -^
 
 \ SI). H'll I \\I) VM) 
 
 i' ' : ( Willi I lll^ 111- II iiul' IH. V'i ;iiiil:ill\ ]) i^-i .| ; . , ". i ,11 il.,.' 
 
 'I'll il' !mi iIi.M.N. iiU'i iilliin i!i i\ .ii'ij'iii' ' I, HP li -l^nl. 
 
 - I'l ! .i\' iiii- lihini!'!!' Ill "I ii;> -^illjiilii i.i : .. ]:::. | in:,i ; 
 
 : I ^ '1 i 110 iii.-ai!-. .i ip-i.-iil hi . : ,.i'.i I..'.' .-I,'! t. 
 
 < >\|.i| li i> a |ii,irc nf Li'Mf _ i.,h !' Ill' ,i!i'i li'' ml V . it 1 - 
 M I ' I . ; I ' I III 1 1 1 1 1 1 ! 1 ! > I I . i ; I r " 1 1 : ! I , \ : , 11- \ ( 1 I 1 1 ' i > . : V 
 !! li iiii ! hi villi. i;;I. li^lii.i;> .iii.'i" i.ib ; > ! ii mi <, t!|. 
 
 I h:l;ll'^ .Mill ( iiiiu 1 il . ;iil.| lijf r l i\ > r-. ..;; I 1 1: 1 .tii:ii^ ;:i.' 
 
 i" H'.i :.\ 1 i\ . 1 w .ill.-, .ml i'i>\'. ~ ' if ;i;r 
 
 il\ . :iii-l 
 
 .1 i.iiii'- I,ii >; l:i. -< 111- ^1. |. ::., i.^:-. 111 ;:i.- ;..a:.. Iii.il 
 II liiiiMiii.^ il< li'!' II n\ ( I -l| I'i' i\M ! !i'. ill' III. :; II i .':'," .11 
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 . i_ Mill' nrr i:|,i 'il :,r;!\ . \m '.' |. c < n - r i .n | .! 1 ^-.-i i 11 1'- 
 
 I 
 il ^irii :r<'lii;..v I 'i .; ';ilil .I'ii 'II 1:1 1 ;i ,v 1 
 
 - ui:!h.ill .1 |..il.il!rl i.i ll;.- v.,,!!,l. 1, 
 
 .1,, i .ill -v '.111' ^ III' 11. 1. ill; I I','. .: -. 
 
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 ,'I i.-.i".. ~ liir |.,ii,- .,.1! m:,iI '. 
 
 .'ii-iii.r iiiii, .:ii'_ >. 1:1 :i ^1 \ ! 11; 111. 
 ' i \ liii 1 iM' ' i\ -ir 'I : ..1 11 is- 1 ' 
 
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 II > hill 
 
 , \ I I . 1 -. w . . I , 1
 
 104 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 er at right angles, and the high street is considered as one 
 of the finest in Europe. It is terminated by a beautiful 
 bridge. The circumference of Oxford is said to be three 
 miles, and its form circular. My travelling book says that 
 there are thirteen |)arish churches, but 1 did not see them 
 all. The number of colleges and other similar institutions 
 is tweiity-five. They informed me that the number of 
 students in the imiversity was about one thousand two hun- 
 dred, and that Christ Church college lias more tlian any 
 other. There is a fashion in these things, and the nobility 
 and men of fortune are found principally at '''iirist Ciiurch. 
 
 ]Mrt>/ 20. At seven o'clock in t!.-,' morning, Mr. 
 
 1) and I proceeded on the roof of the coach for 
 
 London. We passed tlroufrli ^ever;t! iuCDnsiderallo pla- 
 ces Xunchani, Sliillingford, Bensiiigton, Neltlebed, and 
 Bix, and stop[)ed to change horses at Htiucy, a considera- 
 ble town on the banks of ti;o Thasi-es. The country 
 from Oxford to this place did not appear to be naturally 
 very fertile, but it is hii'hly cultivated, and presents much 
 picturesr[ue scenery of hills and dales, rivrs and extensive 
 tracts of wood. We were surprised at seeing so nuich 
 wood in so old a country. It appeared liowever to be 
 principally of modern planting. Beds of chalk were very 
 common along the road ; tliere is much flint imbedded in 
 it, in fantastic nodules : with the latter they repair the 
 roads it is broken into small pieces, for this purpose, and 
 covered with gravel. 
 
 At Ilenlcy we crossed tb.e Thames. The country is 
 iiere extremely beautiful the banks of the rivf-r were 
 iiighlv verdant ; a dense wood, belonging to a country 
 seat of Lord Malmsbury, formed a fine green slope on tlie 
 declivity of a hill, which rose gradually from tlie river, and
 
 T \> I \M). Il'l I \\1) \\l) -.11 \\i.. !!.. 
 
 ^ 1. ;i - \\ I ! I iiliM-n.'ii !>\ lir' 11 iti- !' till- r.:.;iiii"j i!>'. 
 
 i i'!il ; .iM . !> Ill s,iil'_'. \\ Ilic'li w I- II' ,ri| ;iitl. ,. I, ^,^ . ,. ,,ji,| 
 -' ' Kii III. I ,S > r\ tlli;i' Mli I'll! I ilv w . . ;.riM \ ' 1 ill !; 
 
 .' \ "I ^p! ;;i . ail' I .11 111-! ^I I !w .i'" '\ ui 'In-,-. > - : ! . i - 
 . i; \v .V f..,\ I,, -, til,. I 'I*! , i.^i^Mii ].,;,:, : - i - 
 
 I ' 'ii li! -' m| l:i- .! 1 ':i',i! ;.. i. :i;-. Mil I \, 
 
 -|...v!\ :,-.- :.'.i ill.- iii:i. I M: ! |m\. i^- 1 ,\ ., ':>[, 
 
 !1 .1 Ir r ;;;! r 
 . M >i . -I. III. ^l!;l;:. 
 ii. I .:. :i:i.-i- ni W 
 
 ImII i! W :.i i- T. .i:i.! lii- 1,. .'(ii;:; ..ml 
 
 1. 1 i'.P' 1 "V i! iin-. nr . 'Ml ;r i^ ;t c 
 
 li i-:i. ,111 i I 
 
 .1. \\.'-
 
 l66 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IX 
 
 luie of cultivation an.l of habitations ; only a few sheep 
 are to be seen, here and there, graz-ing upon it, and, but 
 for the constant travelling and the absence of trees, it 
 might be taken for a part of an American wild. Yet the 
 whoh' of it is within ten miles of the capital. We soon 
 began to perceive a cloud of smoke hanging over London, 
 and designating its situation. We arrived at Brentford, a 
 large town, seven miles from London, and thence the 
 houses formed almost a continued row, so that one might 
 have supposed himself riding through a street of the cit}', 
 Hyde Park, with its extended fields, fine lores! trees. 
 ,aid promiscuous assemblage of pedestrians, coaches and 
 horsemen, soon came into view on our left ; we whirled 
 rapidly by it, and, at Hj'de Park corner, abruptly entered 
 the Metrojjolis of the commercial world. We drove 
 through Piccadilly, and were instantly involved in tiie 
 noise and tumult of London. We were obliged to hold 
 fast as we were driven furioush' over rough pavements, 
 while the clattering of the wheels, the sounding of the 
 coachman's horn, and the sharp reverberations of his 
 whip, had there been no other noises, would liave ih'owii- 
 ed conversation, and left us to admire and wonder in si- 
 lence, atth'-' splendour of the English capital. I had lone 
 !)cen anticipatin;,^ tlie emotions which I should experience 
 on entering London. Put I was not a little disappointed 
 at finding myself perfectly unmoved, and was disposed to 
 conclude that one great city is very nuich like another, 
 and does not smklenly impress a stranger with an idea of 
 its iu;igniiu(le, since only a sniali portion can i)c seen at 
 once. AVe were driven through the Strand, Tenij)le Pin. 
 which is out' of tlie aucicnt gates of tlic city, and Flee!- 
 --treet. Tliccoacl; sjtjppeJ at tlie Cell Savage on, Lud'jatr
 
 hV'.iwi), Hi'iit.wn wo (>! 1 \ n. I '7 
 
 Hill. 'I'll"" . o.iilini.m. i>\' a ^IkiII Imii, i!ii.v.' u^. u)tli as- 
 tiini-liiirj '^\vl^IlltsN. tliriiUi;li a iiarnnv (ijMiiiii._r_ uIkh' ilip 
 I. ,f~l ili'\ nitioii \MMilii liavf iiviTtiirntil tln' rn.u |i. ami \sc 
 w 'If M I il(]\\ II ill ;i JafLif back \ (<rcl. tiil! n\ cwailit-i. Ii(ii-,cs. 
 <cy\ aiils. aii(i l>a''L'aL't'- 
 
 No. XL LONDON. 
 
 I i;r i;. II "-.ixn^i llih '^1. I'iiul I.m:!,:')!!.: Mniiur ol ll\ 
 
 111.: - 1' 1 II i!liuliiiii~r- iilniii-t iiiikiiMWii i;\|ifii-c mil c.i;- 
 
 \ liiii-iicr ' ! !i^!,in_- l.ninl'in iiiti ica!f i'.a! Iiil: I.imi-i 1,^ 
 
 I'T I lit' !Ilnlllll!li-Ilt III I.uinlnii Oi'tMlill.; ol till' liV.N i|'" ', 
 
 < 'ili-liKMlit"- ull llli' (iCCll-inii. 
 
 V^/V JO. Ti) |ia\r ani\((l tllllv li;i|)j,i|\ in I.nini.ip. 
 
 ill' r iiliin vt tvsii iiiuiilliN III tia\ flliirj. Ii_\ ^t-a aini I iini, 
 \v:i- (I iia;iil\ a ^iiiiii-cl iil' |ii\ ,inil LTatilin If. Ii \\ - Iim 
 (.'(lurk 1'. M. w licii \\p Nil |iji((l ijou 11 li mil lli( I '.,icii. .iiul 
 !M(ik loij.jiir.'s iiir ihc ui-lii at (111' /,'(// >'^/ /(/-( . 'I'll:- was 
 ,1 |iii!ili(-ii(iii-f a ("ii'.tiiiA ri'ji'. ai:.! La\'' (m> .i^.<<:\ Un (lie 
 wit ol' \(l(liMiii t(i iiuoli'jyif tlif (liii\ aticii 1 I its iiaiiic. 
 lie iiil'iriiis un lliai it alliiilo tu a T rem ii --In; > d' a si rs 
 b''autiliil Wdiiiaii lutiial in a \v iM' rii. --.. la iicc the lu- 
 iiiaiict , lanli iijiiiii ilii> incident, i- ("Mi;:ic.'. I j/ /'//A Snu- 
 rni;c. 'I liis \\as [UtilialiK ,il lir^I liic -I'JI (i| ill'' lldilNC, 
 lull till' .llii^idn lias liccii so Imiil; tiir^nlliii lii.il cn' n llic 
 (ii til' "jr.i|iii\ i-- cliaii'.'cil, anil \v c liml il no Inn. ci' I ai lu ll( 
 S .urt'i'i. hii[ li:c I'ti II .\(iv<i ' (. 
 
 \ri( |- ilinaci wcwcnl into St. I'mil"- ('hin. li. wIikIi 
 nM> wiiliiu a \i\\ iii'U i>r <inf 1 Mi'_iiij-. )' is a siiliiiin'
 
 (08 A JOrn.N \L OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 biiil(!iii<r, atiii v. iini I iuokecl 'Jjj tiiix)ii[;li its stu]>emlou^ 
 dome, I saw an exiiiijirioii of arcliia'ctiiral gtaiidear. which 
 [ had never witnes-ci! Ixicie. 
 
 I shall now, my dear broth.er, cease for some months 
 to be a tra\eller, and sliall become a settled resident in 
 London. Of this city of cities, you will not exjjoct me to 
 attempt any thin^ like a remilar and full account. As 
 volumes woul,! not suffice for the jjiu'pose, it would be ar- 
 rof:ance in me (o suppose that a residence of a lew nionilis 
 can qualify iiie fm- the task, even If entirely at leisure for 
 obser\aiioii. And when the daily calls of business, with 
 tii2a:emen{s of ceremou}^ and civility, are taken into the 
 af'ce-nnt; it Vviil l)eco)ne nie still more to be modest in 
 djawintr u'eueral con^'lusions concerning so vast a city as 
 London. I;>ut it may perhaps l)e still in my power to im- 
 oart some luibrmation whicli will be interestine' to viu, 
 since one cannot well mlstak*' concerninsf facts passing 
 dai'y before him, a.id needing only tlie faithful use of his 
 senses. Duilng my residence in Lond<ni, 1 shall thei'tv 
 fore endeavour to give such notices of liie objects which 
 occur in my daily walks, as shall exhibil to \ (Hi the most 
 stiikinu- oiiilincs of the picture, altiiou^h it is proliable 
 that 1 shall rarely be able to add all the colouring and 
 shades i;ecessary t(j fill it up Ci.mpletely. 
 
 ]M{n/ 21. Not L'e'ing eneag<-'d in commercial business, 
 i took lod'riiigs near Cavendish Square, in a part of W'est- 
 mlnster, which is at once air\'. clean, and (luiet. 'J'lie 
 recomniendat;(/!i of a friend in N(nv-Vork. who had resid- 
 e'! hi !i;e >an.e house, gave me entire confidence in the 
 peojde. and a letter of ie.troduction Iroin hiju 'for !:c had 
 beT'.i a !ire;>f favourite there) jirocurf-d me aJl the kindnes:- 
 ?!id seduh.'Us attention which i could lui\e wished.
 
 K\' .; \ M>. n ! i. \ M> \\:) <: I 1 I. \ M>- I ' '.' 
 
 I'm- i:pi!i I i '.\ u !i'.!i :ir n w '!!!-'.; i ii., I'.- i;-^ I'i;. IiM' 
 
 iil I ... ! i.Mi i - \ , r\ . iii'l.'. - n l'. M 1) ill :! V. il I- I j; r, ,. I - i;l 
 .i.|; ; ,! I i\\ il-. lie 'i .! I . _ i I H -- I ' U Mi A :i. 
 
 . , I' ,x , . > I. ,i,'' !i tr.L , r.^. : iM.' pi i - >.; |-. -;-:!,. .. - 
 ^111-! ii.'M ili.':-.'!'.ii. i.-M'' i'i I Ij' i:^. M I' is. l!i.'\ li.-..- 
 ;.ii '.1, -..,-. 1 .;ji nl.:] r > i ; piis ,u.- Iphi- ^. (m.iiiii iiii_\ .I'n'^i 
 (lirn'i'T ai' I .1 j'nl v:: ^.:n"i m f', . !i:u.' a iliii i 
 
 , ,1,. II ; ir :i !,< - : ! < '. m!i' , : lii.i !;.: i- a'i .'iii:-'- i:\ 
 
 ,,i.: ,:. . ; . ^u:il ,,.-... 
 
 1.1 till i.r l.iiii- _';!-.,' '.M '^^. ;:i-. '! >iiii J ,.- 
 .,,..: .., :,>. > :1 ,: i, '. 1',- a:- ^iia ;1.' ! !a a l' >!- . 
 
 I'^wari' ) i;'t .'i !ai' I '. :, aa 1 '.'i' .:' in ' i'. m i^ a ... 
 
 ;.. --I .1! ii-j'. .:!, a : , 1..1 r. retail. ii c:' a 
 ! . ailiia.a's w i ;i ii. it . a!! i a a la : a \'. a i . 
 , aili'S or ilarl^ c- ' '. i. a' lia- iai; ;' -'.n ' 
 ;i,^ i> ii-a a-ai :.!. ! ^ ^ .a i '. I; : :-i - 
 
 A.l! I 1 V. 
 
 !i. la. - 
 
 l! 1 
 
 I'll \iv ill- !..' 
 
 . I a J rj a 1 ' a : i - i 
 ]>> \ w lii [in 1. a t 
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 'It lii! - In w .IV 
 
 i I. !^ 1 ' :i < a 11 
 
 . . :! -, . 1 1|' \'. 'r I'l . r !iii -a 1 . 
 
 a - , I 1 i . ! 1 , ( , I . i a . : 1 i 1 ' - 1 . 
 
 a I -:. - la ' ua: : . a a' \ .. . . w ' 'ai i i I 
 
 M.i.a- W lar.i.iN > . 1. .:, !. 
 
 I ^ .ri ' ra ia ' ,1 j a'.'. \s <., :i \ i .a 
 
 a < i a.l a - I I ; , a. i a'> ai ' a > ; I r. v : :i '^ :i,i;. 
 . laa' 1 a a', i !>i i.iir>. ;mi ! it - laa . In m..' ;iic n.'
 
 I?0 A JOL.INAL OF 'I'KWKLS IS; 
 
 IMr. . and I fceiing iinpatier.t to get sonicth'u.u 
 
 likf; a general iilca of the appearance of Lontloii, set out 
 and \v;dked at random. We passed street after street, 
 and I'jriied corner after corner, till our littli' knowledge of 
 the town, ^his, gained from having once before been here, 
 for a short time, and mine from an inspection of the map,) 
 \\"ds enhaustcd, and we wandered on, till our heads were 
 completely turned, and we were lost in endless mazes of 
 shops, houses, courts and streets. When we enquired the 
 way to Cavendish Sijuare, the directions were even less 
 iiil-.-lligible than the town itself; no hackney coaches were 
 lu be found, and we at last concluded that, as even Lon- 
 don must have an end, we would persist till we s'lould find 
 it, and then endeavour to correct oar reckoning, and staii 
 f'airiv for a return. We rambled on, a tediotis length of 
 way, till we found ourselves at Spa fields, a wateriu'i 
 place, with a chalybeate spring and tea gardeivs, just on 
 I he border of London. Tiie refreshments of the [dace 
 were rendered welcome l)y extreme tatisue, and afier be- 
 ing, again and agfun, bewildered, we at lei':2!'i reached 
 our lodgings, with the wholesome lesson wiiich expe'ieuce 
 had taualit us, that a stranger should not ti-usl himself in 
 f iondon v.-ilhnu1 a guide, or ample directions. A method 
 wliieh we soon found it necessary to adopt v.as to plan 
 every excursion with the aid of the niap. and to make out 
 on a [)ocket card, in their proper succf ssion, a H.>t of the 
 streets throuirh which we wise.cd to pass. 
 
 .1/(V;/ 2]. Tlie number (d' eating houses in London i- 
 iinmeu^e. You can hardly pass th.rouidi a street whhout 
 lindiniT one, and in the earliest excursion wliich I had oc- 
 casion to make for dinner, I went into the first house ot 
 this description which J saw. I caiiui>t say tliat it was
 
 IN.: \ M). 11"! 1 \\:> \\ 
 
 , \ I .: A A\ "V I .)!iiI.:ll.lllH'. .l;lil ,. 
 
 ' ) 1, iiniii;;: tn iii\ !.> !.i:i>. i w.iv !i, iiiMMi ' '<> 'k i i ) 
 
 ^I,. 1) ii..-,\ (!'ia;.!s I i..i'l .;i:;;.i. lut ;. -.'...i ... 
 
 '.I,.-. ,i mr li\ (!>(! ii;i;- U'..<[ li'' !i :.i i.'-' .!ii!i : l.'i .; . 
 j). i;i . ^ ir.i u ill II' 't .Mj.;...-!' t'.Ml 1 Mi:ill !> -,li. ;:":i^ ;.i 
 .\ti:i 1 MIS ''Vjii'iiii:!;!!^ \i\\ 1 ir in t! ;-, v ,\. |.'i; i;;.-, 
 I'.iri- w ;ll li ilii .' 1 ' ^ il'ii'. 1)"'.\ riiniii!( ;. '\ . i,j I .Mi;>i ;;. ,i |i,:i:i 
 ':i:i\ ,1 c-.Mriiu.j.''' his liviii. ! !i:s \\i-!:'- m ' m . i.ii i- ; .i i., 
 , . .. Ml i:i :', . I! i.. ,.! .1-' . I'llli' :il the ! .< 'il' ! l) * I Ti i 
 
 ;;ir l.ir tiin i iiir. 
 
 U / 7 .' ' . 1 I r 1 1 1 1 - ; 1 1 ' ^ > 1 ' : . r I u I 1 ; 1 1 ^ \: \ ; ! ; ^ . - i , ; i ' 
 
 . ! ' i'li'ii. ;i;;' ! Ill i;ii|ii i-:;i . i: jn i;i ^1 1 ,, .i :' i ^ ,,li i : !, j :u i. mi 
 . ' ' . .1 t . iiir. u.iN v, iiiit ! ..'\\\'',i\':]{ '.:;.!'.-:' :i-al ii' U' 
 - I -I ;|M I'l: .i!. . il. I'im;:! !:i' :;i ].i' ;;- ,;:; :. iur. uf tl,-- 
 
 : ;;. \ \\] .;.. i tl 'ii irr 11 ;! i,i,- ' ;. -! 1.1 iii:i :<.. :,;ii!, s:i!l 
 III :' . ' :. il !.\ III T' i.iiiii . ;', l,;i i i' :; :.;iiili i! .'. ; :i ; . s-i,-.; ,, 
 1 I..I !,! !i I'l, .Ij!' .ill I ;'. , .' ;, U'..-:, .-. ;.- lii'ii'ii ;i- 
 ji .--i'ili-. Ii\ !i ii-i' :..-: -I l!i,;!. ii' .li '; . . . ;i ; ji M- i - to 
 j.-'iijili' M-,;!Iri 1- 1 ,iil ,r,,-i ll;i^ iiiil,;i'li- I' Ii.'A ;:. I 1: i i ,. ii". I ; : 
 ( Til--- 111 \ Il ;r ^ Ml' ir. Il ' ^'ii ill U l i. ;i \^ :i !: : i > ,;| ', . '{ i;i 
 ' ':: mHiMI"^ I'l'illii -tl"! W .1:! 1 1 ,1 f. ' i Mi 'I : i .1 1 hi r.lljl.Mlii .IM' 
 
 |iiii\-i Is i!i" -.i.iH- uil'i ii'i!-. Mi-i "1 ;!i.i I t 1 \\;ii>,ii I 
 li ! 1 1' I'l I - v'. II r li' it ,it i|. Mill'. I il,. 1 ;: r',1,1- : I :'i I '.. I' il 
 till' .11 1 1.; .1 I'M -il 1 :i ili;i i| 111'- t'l lii -^ i!' il l;ii' !i,;m;ii .- 
 \v iliiin .1 iiK! JiiMti- |it I I'l i ; r:ii ii> w ' i ' . . ' ','. i I ii iin i -t nl 
 tin || tti I .. .:IM .1. tiii. l^ lir- /' ^' //,.'/-- .'. :.! il ;I'r ('l^- 
 
 l I ; 1 - 
 
 I' ' \ il i\ I' I \ I I A w iii'i I- ( -.1 I'lli-.i. !. I 
 
 :\> I: *- 
 
 f|ii!i'_: iii'iii- !ii I'li tiri'.i t'l ".;i : ;!, i muI-.
 
 l?i' 
 
 JOURNAL Oi- jUA\i:i.S IN 
 
 mected by Sir Chrisrt^jiher Wren naucr llie dircctioa ol- 
 diaries ii. to con;r.u'ir;or.";te the oreal lire in 1666, com- 
 ing in my v.ay. 1 iiscondcd t.) the iron ptllery near the top. 
 rhiv monuaic'i!; is a fiuted culunui of the Doric order ; 
 its diameter at the l)a,-e is finecn feet, and its heipiit two 
 !!un(h\'d and two feet, 'i'he asc(!nt is by three iinn(h'ed 
 -Uici forty-live stone stops wiiidino' spirally aloo'j tl>e in- 
 side. Hue!' constant tnruing and turiiina', for such a leiiplh 
 .)f wa}-, makes ones bniins giddy, and l;Is ];nees totter be- 
 lioaili bin!. 
 
 Tiie t!ib;ilar form of ilie monnnient \.\ udiich tlie^re are 
 opei.ii.'.''' to aihnit !i:.'bit and aii'. wondei'fiihy increases the 
 ^oi^e ofihe city and of Lon;!*);! biivl-v. and the ro;irinfj of 
 [lie wind, so that 1 was alnjost deal^"iK:d wiih liie incessant 
 and eonfn'^ed din of v- bee's and cries. 
 
 Tie' I'b; d':^h eoiisidij' this ;^i()i;i'me:u ':- the !iiost beau- 
 i;i':d pill^i;- i\ the \rorld. rnio.-iiisew -'y it stands in an 
 ,t':-.r-\ic ::l\\\ {:.:-.{ r:i !-e:ee" \-:v, :::'i'!;i.h 'I'-'-iw the liank of 
 the ;l\tr and \> 'thin iv/a I ^a ';;': y.^i ds i;; ! ,v;;ido:; inacige. 
 On an cenn;' v.e i' ^onl^! !;c e inosi ew:n>n,\n'iing object. 
 Bel ii- s:U;:!'i'' i 'S ia/\ erl'iob;:-: p/opes-. as it stsniJs on the 
 ipot \'lr:* :';i il;', ;ao!,o o^i whiidi dciiroyed a great [)art 
 
 <.fn the peue-;' d ot the nionieeeu;. thero is a, Latin in- 
 .cvi^jt^on. g'vin^r an ae'-oniu oi dho (>e( n* and oi'tlio n:anner 
 :n \vh:(!, ih-' < ::;)oi:se <ii' ''lectinj: li;c p!!I,ir was di^h'ayech 
 \\] tiiis i-; \Ci\ \v<!h i:!!t no oei" will I'clji've; the ciiariie 
 vudfh i-; advU d. !i:cit the fire was kiedh d by the iloman 
 ?'H'!ee;e:^,
 
 f Ml wn. l!<ii ! \M> \M) -(<.;i \M). i^;; 
 
 I'lii- i! t\ lii'iii'j cl'-ar. 1 iiiiixi'd iioui l!;i' irmi '/.-il'.'iv 
 iiiMr iIh' I'l]) i)i' tlif iiinniimi'iit. ;i liiir \ leu <<\ I .'Mi,],,!! ,111. 1 
 i:^ fr.\ intn^. It U iiilml .! \,ist i-ir\ : it is a w.irM. 
 Siiiitliuaik al.Mir w.mli! iiiuk*' ,1 'jTf it tijun- ii' |pl;icril \,\ 
 it'M'l.''. 1)111. ( iiiiicrti- I uilli l.dililoii, it Is oilK t'p; i:i'm <;' 
 till- 'jai ini'iil. 
 
 ci'iMM. 01 nir. .m:\\ ixk k 
 
 '/'/V ^'"'. I'-N t!l'' |Jnrn.'iir>> nl" Mr. \\illlaill> I \^:iN 
 ,lillll!lt'-:l l'll> munUll-J I'l >rr till' fell innilir- at till' i'|ii'll- 
 
 iiii ni tin ii'W il.irL ,it W .ijijiiiij-. \\ apjiinj 1^ ii'iiti- a: 
 111'' liiuiT t'Mrriniiv (ii l.uii'lxii. (Miili^ruoii'. til ill It part mI 
 ill'' ii^tT wIhti' til'' -hip- III' ill L'!'' It iiirailxTs. I; i> ili, 
 ii'-iiit 111' saili)! s, au'i pi'iijili' <-iiiiiii'(ti''l \ni!i iri\ i'_.iti. a:, 
 aii'i i^ imt ( iiii.>iili'rr(i a> luiii^ u it hi 11 tiic limits i-' '_' I'.iilils 
 aii'i la>;iiiiii. \\ I I'll Mill till' -tii'i t^ iiiri'iiw aii'i >.a ts . .lU 1 
 lip \ \v>'!i' ( i.iVi'ii'il h>i- .1 mill lip iimri' witli iiifii. w.iaiii:. 
 aa.i rhililii'ii li.iii'_iii'.: all lilt llh' limiiN aini vxiipinWs. \-. i;!i 
 till' ii(lu-l\i' f\|i. I t it lull ul Nicilpj (ill Ixiiij. r'ai'ii. ,i!lJ 
 \i'\a\ |aiiiil\ . w l|ii. a^ lame ha. I ii pi uti'i 1. wt" tn atli ;;'i 
 till iijii'iiiirj 11! I'll- . I'll Is. I hi-i' |ii'ii|i!i- \m:.' lai'if la:- 
 'ji-il. Iill;i\ . aa-i a'i:i inaii i . \\ nii'ln-. i. ihiii .(ii\ t !a>- w ii ai 
 I haM- I'V. 1' ^. I a. \ t \ ili'V uiit'.-ij.i In _ !/.' mi tin' 
 l\!ii_. M.iiii ii'ii > n 1; I'Mi ,1 11 aiii'ar tiir laia ^ ni \\ ivpi:'^ 
 
 with 11.^ |llT-i 111 . 
 
 h n 1^ ;li'' < ihSa! I i.r th.' .Ji w.. ail, I /A/v ,/ ...,,', ,/ p.',,- 
 iin ;.i:ii,i 1 1 r '.,~...' i,.;ili' p.Mt I'l till- ia-iiv\i! 111 tii-' sirn In. 
 \Ii)-i dl tii'- j'.ivi", !M' 11 \^i:r tlii'ir inaiiis .it lal! Irii'.lii. 
 iii'l --iiiiir aia.'i'.. ii.rm. 1 'i- ; 1 nv ii>iii-i 1 !i\ luil laiin's, wi n- 
 - il'l [- 111- W .':i',.-~. In liii ipinai Ill's ,iiii| tiilii'i!'' t \i :\ 
 uiaii' piM-'il l;'i. a lia .Irw-. \\i' ii!)-i|\r .1 l;\in' ,11:, t 
 
 !Kni.j 'a.aUr 
 
 a't\ I'l Iia 1" 'M raf [''ji^iatia
 
 17-1 A JfU K.NAL OF THAVK/.S IN 
 
 that tliey should become " uu astoiushmcut, a provcrii. 
 and a b^yword ainoii- all nations/"' 
 
 I'lie ducks wiiich we went to see are precisely like tlioso 
 at [Jverpool. exce[)t tliat they are much larjrer, aud arc 
 enclosed by a hinh brick wall, the object of which is to 
 prevent thefts. Tliese docks have been constructed at a 
 vast expense, by removino- many hrmdreds of houses to 
 make wiiv for them, and by making them of such extent 
 a> to conlain more than fixe hundred ships with room to 
 vhiM [)laces. There are with.in the walls very extensive 
 ware Itouses for the reception of goods, and the tobacco 
 w-u'c iiouso, wliich covers six acres of ground, is said to 
 k-e t'le l:;r;M'st in tlie world. All this CTeat accommodation 
 for sliips is so much added to the capacity of the river, 
 wliicli is always exceedinu'y crowded, and the dock has a 
 verv great superiority in point of safety. 
 
 Some distance below the V."appin<i dock is another in 
 the fsle of Dogs. Tlie Isle of Poirs* is a marshy ])eninsula, 
 formed I'V a large curve which the river takes in a course 
 almost circular. They have cut through the neck of this 
 j)enins!ila. and foi-med the ca.vity into an extensive dock 
 for the AS'esf-Tndia trade. Tliis trade then^fore deposits 
 its car.Toes at a considerable distance below London, and 
 as it us;ian\ a'Tives in fleets, much d;imaci-e. wliich was 
 former] V sustained when it lay in the !)ed c>f the river, is 
 now .ivoided. 
 
 llie West-India docks cover iietween fifty and sixty 
 acres of i/rinnid ; lliry can receixe ma:;y Innidi'cds of ships, 
 and h;ive immens!^ ranges of w;i!'e-houses within the walls. 
 
 H i' --iM til, 11 a :<iy;!' k'-.ti-l v;)'^ 'Mic^ ];cpt ':0!-c \\!m'-'' jravo 
 ri::'.a to l!it aaiiM .
 
 \ : ) . 1 1 . . 1 1 . \ N 1) WD -'.!! \ M I 
 
 i ' 
 
 >iii li nil Miiln 'lit |i|("it> 111 cpiiiiur' : il ;i!m.|miii\ th. 
 
 U HI M III- 111 \ IT SI. II hi't.ii r. 
 
 S.i jnil \'.,is III!' iTinvd ill, it it \v,i> ;i Imij liiii.' Ii.Imii 
 w I' I ii;ili| '^,11,1 a'lMii>-i(iii w uliiii l!:i- w ill- nil III- I.I w c, m k. 
 \\ f |i,i,| I'l jiisN I'lumjii ,1 sin.ill il.inr \\!iri\' n;il\ mn' m 
 l\v,, 'Aiic |iii(iiilti-,l III nil'T al CM1II-. \ r;.ili-i! |iivvijf 
 Ir.l 1.1 liir (Iniir, ail. I w ' v^i'K' |.isi|i'.i aii'l [ir'-s>ci! Ic'i ail 
 Ihi ir aiiii'Ul li. at au.l .la-t. lu'La'* \\r r..;:!.| a!\a.;ii- imi.- 
 liMii !: ! > i;.U i. l;i'' ::.:l^. \i 1' :< .t'l w' hIi r< .. ami. 
 s.. ! a:ti'! . iin- I ."I 'i ^1 !, :ir ail. ! Mill, r lii -liii.jais'ir.l j.^i- 
 Miiia.''s aiiivi' ! Ill til" ii' laiai'Ii. . | i]. jir.it .Ih.iis \\rvi> 
 til .lU 11 (i|n'ii. iii.i till' J liiai.: ci". lu i| 1 1 m!vi .| aiHiui.i III jias 
 llini NilcMiI lima i^a i'l ia.ii''i'. laiil^, .\i]>\ >[ iLa, ;, n . 
 
 'I III- |iri-(isi' ii!i;, it nj liir ( a, 'i 1 1, , 1 1 \ I, I ill,. ,|.,\ \^;|^ t,, 
 (r!i !ii .Itr till' a'!l!i:-~-lM|i i.| lll.' rilMsiups illln tin' .|..rk. 
 \\ llirll \\ ,l> I ill n |ii-I lllll -lit .1. 
 
 \i a 111 liir, !\ . at I In- ,1 1 p] I' a II III iii. iiinni . il.i- w ,ti' r li!>'s 
 111 Iiii' lii.ik ui'M- tai'.Wii ii|Mil.aiiii Iwii siiip^. ijiTi., ilc.l 
 Witii ill.' ('.l-iii- .i| ,ill li il;.i;i~. I iiti'M''!. u'l'ii 1 till' (ii-- 
 ili.ii _i' lit (,1111)1111. .lllll \u;ii iiMil'.il 1111-11- Ii.iiu l\\.i liaii'is 
 nil -ii.iH'. .^. lllll' I i. Ml-. 111,!- Ill -jM rial. I - w I I ' III. ikiiij mi. 
 'I'hi' ('.ilmir- I.I I Mill.' \v('i.' Iniii' !i.'!i..i|!i ili,' li. .\^ sjhu. 
 aii.j .!ia"".',l .iL.ii - III i;i.ii -aa ,i|,.ii. fiiii imM.'i'v, .| jn w ,.. 
 hi. Ill" \i I.I 1 1. 11 1 .. 1 ,1111 - \'. I 1'.' s ,. I, ,'.,:, ,i l! , II liir 
 
 im/.i'U I..|i-!iia-I si IS . .1 
 
 il' ,il',M It |..:,i,ll.' h, : ..III 
 
 I J, ,-' I 1 i ), mil ;ik ,iii.l ."-v. . .i' II \\ , I .' all' .\ I t'a ai. 
 
 W . I, ,..' 1... a .,i-,.!i..a.'i'- I ' ;.; ' u. :! ..ar :o.,.i 
 ,'. il iiij . ,1 !l ';. 1.1 . li s' I iiiiir. 1 1 1 ' ' -. Ill i\\ .111, i 
 
 ' lii'll. ,1 -lia.!.,\V ..! ll-i .l.a-ai .' I" ' . : i raiiihi. 'I'li;- 
 
 w a s III. w 
 
 ' Mli'l'l-l,.! 
 
 ', I, 
 
 IP. 11'. ni III 
 
 \.'i'i.r t'
 
 17<J A JOURNAL OF TRA.VELS IN 
 
 No. XIL .LONDON. 
 
 I'he tower Origin Extent Yeomen o''U)C giiai'ds Touei-gua- 
 the Sjianish armoury Queen Elizaljctli Walking-slick oi 
 Henry V!1I. An ancient axe used at executions SiiKill ar- 
 moiiry Ancient cannon Beautiful arrangement oi' small r,rm> 
 Hoi'se armoury Kings on Horseijack Armour ot' distin- 
 guished individuals The I'cgalia Crow ns, sceptres, diudoms, 
 kc. Their great beauty and value Wild beasts of the touei' 
 Incidents A hospital Missionary Society Fanoraina of Gil- 
 rallar. 
 
 TflK TOWER OF LONDON, 
 
 so fonious in tiie history of Eii'jhuul, is situatoil near the 
 AVapping dock, and nnturally attracted onr attention next, 
 Altliongh it has been asserted tliat there was a Ibrtificatiou 
 here in the time of Jnliiis ("iesar, the tower is generally 
 believed to have been erected by ^^'illiam the Conqueror. 
 He trusted so much more to the fears than to the affection 
 of his subjects, that he built the white tower to overawe 
 the neighbouring cit\'. The structures which now co un- 
 der the name of the tower are ninnert)us and various. So 
 many alterations and additions have been made by suc- 
 cessive monarchs, that it is probable no portion of the 
 buildiniiS remains as the con(jueror left them. The white 
 tower presents a number of lofty turrets, which are visible 
 from every elevated point in and abt)ut London. All that 
 now passes under the name of the tower comprehends n 
 great jumiber of buildinirs. i-ndosed by a wall, which is 
 surrounded by a broad and deep ditch. The space with- 
 in the wall is more tlian twelve acres, and the surrounding 
 d'iich .Ir.'.s a ciicuil of more tlum three thousand i'eet. A
 
 K\. I \M). H(M 1 \M> \M) "-lull .Nl). i^7 
 
 III N' I' J A 1 , i:ii ! 1 III : 'A a.iiii ;ii'' |ii I iii'!^ ( 'I fill- 1. '\mt : 
 It '^ i!.'.,.|ii I \ a ni.ii,!ifi (;' -ti r.i^. .inil !i,i^ ,i >( i:-'iiii i ,l- 
 !.i|i I I ..iiiiTi.ii \miMii- saiii".^ |i'i!-i ( i.iiir. -. 
 A ; :. li I ::' i.iw ( I \\ ,i> i>i I jiii.ilh IumIi .!v ,i ii.i ii i ,.. ii 
 :'. : n.'t ii' ill ii'ii an Ikhit a ain-i \\\r a-vanli^ i.l iiim,|- 
 : war. >', ;!l tin- a].;" ai ini'r aip! [i iia-ir ol a :'a!ri-"ii 
 .11'' III lint till ! ; till' L .1' - .ii'- 11(11 IH i aipi -lull V. it'i niii' li 
 'T;, .' :\ : a 'i \ < aiiimn an' mn'iali''! 'ai llii- waiiv. aii.i a 
 : ! r\ 1 ill ci In iiiaini I11I..I u ilii;ii. \ Ma: I 
 a-'.-; - '( a ci.i jiv lit' ni> a i alli i ^ i nii;':i nl 
 
 : ' . , ..<;'. i|v;iii irjvl|,-,| !i\ a I'l .-ili^al .i.,'.;' 'I'lIK 
 
 W l.a a 1- lac a !!>' I ii il \\ av \\ i M'll l a I iP' I iiii' . .l I 1 1 i:; \ 
 
 \ III. I la . a I"- a I III I la- ana linlnai'ii- n in na: it >] an- 
 
 'ii;'!.. ! ia a' ' a:> \\.i\r ]!] nIi'i'M- an-l llawiir/ 
 
 I i.'l I liili. i a r,l 1, anii lia' < .'-t s 
 
 11- '.'. . - \ ' i .1 M i\\ > 'T _ iM i 11 I-. an.i a \<\ M^i Lr- 
 
 ';,,.!. la a \'. ,: -:-. < u tlr IT ! a.'i^v >:. 1 ': ! i-I- 
 
 : . . ' . I'liU i-v. |tM|' ]' lal-'lf aii'l 
 
 . '.a 'A a ii . : Ii.i- ! Ki 1 - < i. I!. 'Ill' :r r i[i> ,,if 
 
 ai ;. l! :; i: 1 'ji, ami !! a .'n-'I v. I'.i '.aa-!- ': j^ar';, -la.l- 
 
 .^..l iiM.iial-.."" 
 
 I a' j r! , a'lj , , ' , , - . \\^\i I : ! I. ,vv ,;-;,,; 1] a . ' a .a- 
 :. .11 ' ; a lii' n.' ,' . - i -i - \.f',' a. , i la' . - - i- a 
 
 . . ji.iMl nl s,.al.- .. 
 
 I 1 .i! lai- ! Ill !. \\ ! .a- a - I . la 'i: ,. '. !; -. i '^ 
 
 a 'la i; a, ..: -'i t. v, , -an-. la a .> r '.'.'.'II 
 
 , I al i !:!' a : ' I 111' 1 1 ''.M r 
 
 ,:-'.: !. la a. a -i : ' i ;.. I 'ai' -. nana la- 
 
 ali !\ ' . . \\ i! ;a -a! 1 ;a v. .'.' .- 1 1 1 h' i a ' a h . li ( 'i ai 
 
 a II "ii <
 
 1*8 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 river, and are fired only on state holydays, and other occy- 
 sjons of public rejoicing, e:>pecially when victories are an- 
 nounced. 
 
 Willi one of tiie yeomen of the guards for our guide, we 
 entered the tower to view its principal curiosities. The 
 venerable dress of this antique looking soldier produced a 
 singular impression of solemnity and ridicule. We could 
 scarcely avoid the persuasion that our guide was really 
 two or three centuries old, znv.] had ministered in person 
 to the great champion of jea'ous liusbands, the ca[)ricious 
 and uxorious Il-Mirj'. 
 
 The first aparlment which we visited was the Spanish 
 Arinoiu-y, for so they call the room in wliich arc deposited 
 t!ie arms taken from the Fj;aniards, at the defeat of tlic 
 famous Armada, so iou'i the terror of England and tlie 
 boast of Spain. These arms are kept in exc<'llent oi dt'r, 
 bpiuir very bright, and so arranged as to exhibit them to 
 nuicli advantage. Tiiey appear perfectly sound, althou'.di 
 the hands which wielded, and those which took them, are 
 long since mouldered into dust. 
 
 They consist of spears, swords, battle-axes, shields, pis- 
 tols, and other implements of war. It was a hiudi gratifi- 
 cation to behold these authentic remnants of that celebrated 
 expedition. In viewinii the curiosities of the tower, one 
 lias tiie agreeable rellection, tliat lie may rely with perfect 
 confidence upon the genuineness of all t'le antiques, with- 
 out the danger of imposition, so common in similar cases ; 
 for Knaiand has never been plundered, nor in the power 
 of an enemy, since the \ortnan invasion, a [)eriod of more 
 than seven hundred years, and during all tli.'st time the 
 tower has been under the immediate control of iroverO' 
 nient.
 
 ^Ni.r.AM), HOI.LANH AM) xoll, \M>. 1 , J 
 
 \n I III' > ill If i'.)i)ui arc ^licwn the ihunil) '-^llM^ ^. a.^i i.ili- 
 IT iiiNt!iiini'iil> ol toiliirr, wliich tin- mi^iw, .nm- iimti- 
 tii'iir.' .ind laihUical riui-liv ol'tlii' SjJaiiianK iiidiir. d ili.an 
 
 IM III iwj. 
 
 'rin'ir criifhy n a> imt luiu r\('r w iiliout an clijiTt : tin v 
 ihKMiiird 111 cniiiidl tiif Ijil' li-li lo con Ir^v u licii- (In ir ; i I'a- 
 siiri'^ u iTi' iii(Mri). a-> liiiir (.i,iuiUrvnia)i ( 'drtc/, liiii tiic lir- 
 H'i<' Nlniitf/.iiina. 
 
 ( >ai' ('I'll liirlnr nt\t rais>ai a nirtain ai i^;o rn,| df t!ir 
 I'll' Mil. and \M di>rii\ I ri il a w a\ li'^iii r lit' (Jiiii-ii I di/.aliii!i, 
 -iaiiduij li\ Jul' liiM--i. wliicli i^ 111 Id l)\ a p I'ji-. I iic 
 lai iiituii' III till' liiiiM'. and lln' dn ^< .iiid aniinni nl tiiis 
 \ i:ia/,.i!i!aii ijai'di, arr 1 In" ^a:'ii' witli uiiadi -lif a 1 1| n'an d 
 ,ii ill.' hi'-id uf lirr !iia\' anii\ at 'l"ill)iir_\ I'nii. uln:.' -Ili- 
 ad iii' -i d llaaii. ill <'iaii','ni]i!al i"U nl till- SjiaiiiNli ins a-inii. 
 i:i il'!- VI ar I ."i--^. 
 
 Till- !i,ir-i' !. rriaiii-ruiiMirrd. an! tlii' i|nfrii i- dri -M'd 
 111 a uiii;.- ^Wls |iiitii "It. fliT d!i'-- -iiiii^ iimrr adapli d 
 III a hall-: ii.iiii tiiaii a i-.'.ii'.]i. ! I' it i> -jiiiiiKlfd with |llaI!^ 
 aii I sM,i;i_|r., : \]]r jia.'i i)..id- hi 1 111 i;i-'\"- la lna-I, and 
 tin- \UM,!i _!! ii,i|i. iad'iiin ''Mil V <il lii-tm n'al initli. is \i I'v 
 \\' !i ' M' nil d. 
 
 ^I'.'iai I'lina ihi. I isiii; artii l^'> arr d' jiiisiinl in il.is 
 I ' ! lai. I la 1 1' is a rni i"a- w ali^ : n'j-siirlv lirrr. \U!'i ii li is 
 I'iMl' |il~ti '1- s. I an ! 111! \ I ' ii;' i-al'-d ni nlir iMid nl it . l!. i' . I'll 
 a lia-r\ ', w , iM mil' w.'il i si|v|,,ti liil> lali nt in i ' i/iiir. 
 \\ I'll 111. > in si 111 111' lit 1 1' ;.i \ \ 111. \* ii' a a \ 'mt'i. n^i .i in 
 j i ' - ' , I , , a I .1 aii ' .11 'ii\ Ml J III. in 1 !>-:;: vr, i' ,id\- 
 
 ;> ' , : iii\ I'luii iT ;n '. I a' Is I'laai i- in wliii li lir ini^Iit 
 
 ! ' -a iiiai-i ll : i"i I i'aii s v\ as noi Irss ,| h iii\ iI- ui 
 
 > I 1.'. ! a tin- in I ma 1 it |s s,(i,i ih it Ii< w as i iiva'jf ! ni 
 : "I.:'! p'a nunii-'s \-. :t'.| ill. w-trli. t );" inav iir,!'
 
 ISO A JOr'RNAL OP TRAVKLS IN 
 
 at this ridiculous spirit of Io\v-)iiimled bravery, l)Ut eiiio- 
 tions "fa very opposite nature are excited i)}' aiiotiier in- 
 strument whicli is kept here. I allade to the axe wiui 
 which the beautiful and innocent Ann Tioleyn was behead- 
 ed, to <rratiiy the jealousy of this same Henry. The his- 
 tory of this unfortunate lady has deeply interested posteri- 
 ty, and j)rThaps it would be difficult to fnid an example of 
 more pp.thetic and moving eloquence, than is exhibited l*y 
 her in the last letter which she addressed to her iisexcra- 
 ble lord, while she was confined in the tower unch'r sen- 
 tetice of death. ^Phe axe is shaped very nuich like a !ar<;e 
 cleaver, [t has been more than once stained with noble 
 blood, for witli it. the I'arl of Kssex, so (hstiiifjnished as 
 (he object of Fdi/.abetlrs weak })artialit\' and subsequent 
 severity, was also beheaded. 
 
 We next visited the small armoury, which is in another 
 building, erected by William and Mary for its reception. 
 In the lower room there was formerly a vast collection of 
 ariillery, the greater part of which is removed a little way 
 down the river to Woolwich, now the principal deposit of 
 the royal artillery. This lower room is nearly toui hun- 
 dred feet in leneth, by fifty in width, imd twenty-four in 
 height, it itill contains a considerable colltction of artil- 
 lery, and a orcat )nany trophies obtained m dilTcrent wars. 
 Amono- these ;ire two curious pie( es taken at the battle of 
 Ra'v/ilies by the great Duke of .'iai-iboroii'j'i, fjrsides a 
 number caj;tured i'rom the Spai'ias-ds, and other nations at 
 \ ;u ious times. 
 
 Wcvv is one of the earliest invented cannon: it is com- 
 pos-'il ol !)ars oi'iron, weltled tofrether and i)onnd by iron 
 (loops. It lias no carri^'ce. i>ut was moved i)y iron liiifis. 
 ^iich is i!^ si/.e, that it is iiicrrdible it could t^ver have been
 
 h\,,!.\\l>. Ili'Fl.Wt) 'Ml w,,r, vvD. .'r 
 
 <>;f.|. liiiir-- til'' L' .n;)ii\\.ii'r ci li.' _- iMwiii'i r,,nii.'ii 
 atir iiiv.Miiiu ua^ u r.'irii'.|i\ 1: i i. f'i ,; v,;,,,ll miu uiijif 
 laul in at tin iiiii/./l" -'i li'." l"i:). \iit.'; .; .i '::'.^l viiir- 
 :, ,,i'ii);iii''> il' <i'^ir;,( li'ii I.'i)l in I'.iis i n.,::. ,. .ti- in- 
 -tpiiii iit> uilli ulii'li L'T' II .a - ai.' lii!.i\\a. n; ; a ia":la; 
 , : -;.iir.Niiin'_' m/,.-. u illi our of i!i.' !'..ai!i^ '.c'.ai^.aj to ii. 
 \!)i)\r >taii<. ill a rouin ol' m .ii !_\ U;.rr liiia.ii.-.l .;.'al iili;. 
 i. < I ill IfiiLMii. vv < \\f\r [\.n-\\,\\ -ti ii< K \'. ;:!i tiM- li( a;ii .lai .ir- 
 I a 1!.' a pa a It atiil .ia/.'.liii. hri'.'htai-- n. >aif inn: iiaa r.ii i l!ii_v 
 I Ilea -I ail ^tau 1 .a'a: ai-. wl-ji ' '.i ; .:.'[[< 1 .^'W -. i . ariia:- 
 a.aa l!i.- lli'.a- t'l l!i'' ', ;iii;-. i"!a-\V-i> a ^:.,al(a Li'ai 
 ai..al\ aihl -jil aa!' aa t'.ii' lia nr,-,.. ;- lu- ail i .ai ni-'ia '. 
 ,a; I I!! til'' nil!'-' nnaaa I; :> ^..i ; ili.ii iI.. n' arf iivaa!'\ 
 ",ual tuo laa; li'".i iIimu- aiai >;ai; : n.aiaa- ia I !.'- i . ..aa. 
 I;, -ilt- lia' iiia-kia^ I 111.- ;-, ii-a:l:, a ^I'lt (a.!'.r;: - 
 1 1 - 'A i a" ' i ~ . I a - 1 ' I i ^ . 1 1 a \ 1 1 a i - . : . i < I ! a - ' a a ; . a ' i i - : < \ :\ a a - 
 ;.: a'aa -t ih aili. '! !a- pia' I-. -aw. N. ,a,'l ':'.. < \ \' 
 .. ; la-li liai'aa-. ii r laia iaii' , a'a . la i>l lai ' ' '..'. 
 ,1 : 1 I I'l a"i ' al ii ,''- . i I ai i ii \v aa .i w . , I: '. - 
 
 a a . A r. aa.j I'ai^ ]a'i a a''' a la .!:...'. > . ' . ' a- 
 
 anaa! _ ;!i: i' ,i|l\ ~:.\- aia a .! (a i^a ; !i il a! l:a> ! . a ' ;- 
 
 .all 
 
 I Ii 
 
 " "I'l' ^' ^ I'" i' '' 
 
 ai ia>kiial. < >a i;a' \\ ill- aii- mi- 
 
 In i,,L,ii ii,. .1 (!;. !i Imi 1' !m '- a; ;'.,< Mn, . ' - il,, 
 
 I >' '\ ai a a ;,: i , .! -i a |. ai i a i I ji;! a. 1 ' ili 'tii - '.'. a . , .a :ii 
 I .a ,ii-, r i;a. I i \i. a!i i ia' > > a, li a, -ai '_ I'a; , \'. ! , a ' ..i\i. 
 "'i lia- 1 all' . . la lia' i"a a 'i J. r. 'l ia v\ a,!- a i' a. , la, 
 ;! v^ i'ii li ia- : .i. 11 ai'ia t!a I i . ' . i; , l M .i;a. .aai liaa i 
 
 I- a . ni ii.a-- ^1 li'r-. .' laa -r. ! < \ \>.i :. an ! i i\ :'. ,i \i a 
 
 ! a- iii'i-I ( \.,!)(a ,'ia la !\ laaia-. 
 
 I ill- lau.'a laai .a! ( .a\ aa.a'ii^ >aia nl' lia' anr>t f.IiiiM 
 
 '.,\-. la liir I,';; [. m \\,.' \i , , ; I i. 
 
 \ I a.. 1. ! I .
 
 1S2 
 
 \ ,101 i.-NAL OK 'IKAVKL* I.V 
 
 'i'li" liiDX' annourv is still more iii'.crcstiiit; tii;u! I.iie 
 loom whirl) iias just l.'cen (lescribtd, Jii it is a peat col- 
 lection of ancient ;u'inour, .such as was worn dnrinj: thf 
 i-ciaii ot" the ( -onqacror, and Jroni his po'iod onward, till 
 t];" iiitroditction of fire ar.ns niade a total chiinge in the 
 Hi'tofwai. 'I'lic lir.^l thina' tluit strikes one on entering 
 tii<' room, is llie line ol" I'.n^lish kings fioni the (.'onquer- 
 or down, all niounled on horseliack. arrayed in coin])lete 
 suits oi armour, eij'iipjied with tiie weaj)on> of tliose times, 
 und attended by a loiii;' line of tonnnon s<tldiers. armed 
 and clad in tlie fashion of the days of kniidit errantry. 
 These suits of armour are no models or modei'n i'nitations, 
 bill the very authentic arnmui of the dark aires, aiid, as- 
 c<'rlain('d, in many in>taiices to liav<; Ijelon^i't'd to j)aiticu- 
 lar distinguished indi\ iduals. For instance, tlu.' suit in 
 which ^Villianl, I'rince of v_)rang(! is arrayed, is ilie same 
 which was worn In Ktlward tlu; [Mack Prince, at tlie 
 glorious battle of Cressy. Edward \. ha^ tiie crown s!is- 
 pended over liis head. Vou will remem!)er that he v>as 
 proclainx'd, but nevi;r crowned. The horses are xcry 
 well e\("cuiv'(l, and tlie I'aces of the monarchs are no cou- 
 tein])ti!ile imilati(>us o[ their jiortraits. There is the ui- 
 >iantlc r;r!i)()nr ofJolni of (iaunt, seven I'eet hi<jh, with his 
 sword, and lance of C(jrres[)0!i(k'in riimensions. It se(.;>.,i 
 scarcely credible that such a >uit of armour was ever worn, 
 \et one can hardly suppose tliat it would, have been nuide, 
 unless there had beeii a man to wear it. Such a suit would 
 have rendered ' him o! (>atli.'" invulnerable by the siing 
 a!i'l pel-Ides of the youthful slieplierd. TlK're is a suit of 
 armiiiu' Iti're rougli fi-oni the haauner. as it was Ijeaten out 
 ior ilem'v Mil. ulien eighteen years edd: it is six feet
 
 ! \..; '.Ml. Id .f I \n;i w.) -> " . I \ Ni'- 
 
 l;i_li. Ii;ii a- ii pi. i\i''i i.i" -ill. i!l I'll I 111 II. II \> ..- Ill \ r tm- 
 i^lii 1. 
 
 Tiii^ ri.ll. rii. Ill "I ;ni'H 111 aiiiiniir i- mia mii ; -linj. 
 ail I .ilnii'UjIi il u I- I'M' I 111' I \ ui.ifil^ ill- I" iii\ . M h'-ii \ . 
 I III; iii.i 111' stiil iiii.n iiii,iiiii,iiit ,1- IJIi: -Il .i!'i!j lii-I'iv. 
 ( >iii 1- iliu- I I iMi.i III inriii ;i \i r\ [n i ii < i iiir,i ni iln' .im- 
 |m ,11 ;iiiri' I : I , :: iiji' HI ,n n:|i - lirlnir ilir iiu i iilmn I'l .mi 
 |,. iv\ . !i-r. aii'i I ' I ill- '11' I'i' 1 II ;ii I i il war vv 'iirli li is ri-iiliti| 
 li'i.a '. la -iiai" in- M h'-- . (In' aniMar i- -n riiii|.li'Ii 
 i!mI il iM\i;-i\il\ i;,. il 111 ii|i' |iir-.Ml. i\i':i llif liii. 
 liaa ;-. .1!;'! i-,ii- : tin- \ i r-> !i ^ ii- aif l.iiiai:-':!'' i ~ii I. .iinl 
 t!;'- \s ill i|i- :;;,! 1 'aIii : ill - a in ! ,!i i i.I -iiri.|ii' i 'i iiu' - I nii ill - 
 til i lU. li i^ I a-\ III cniiri ; M- liiai ilia in i_Iil i!a\ . aii 
 a II 1 1', till- I I jiiii i; 1' I i ma -t lia\ I' 111 ;' ! i \i'r\ -jiliaiiiij a;i- 
 [.' iiaiaa . Iw/. i,. .^ | i|, i i ' , , , , i!\ . !,al iiu li< ! - - Ii" \vii c 
 <-|a 1 Ml a: < i. . I ip- i i ml ii' ! Ii. a-i - , i; liiali \ w < \f \:<A. 
 a ' i !i.'' I". I a a ! - ij- la i- u ; r. i\ i i . I . lal \ I a 1 1 ,a i . I 'r- 
 a a ar '\ a- \ i i-\ | ii' >; .' ; I ', i a- i a-h i u 1 a i iIp' na. i .' , .i 
 I- a'aii;; iii'iaa'-; il ai.I nhls i|-f|i .- !iit lia !v_i i - . 
 l'i^--:'i';. a ina-Ml ii.li iai_:il (.ii'i'i' |,|. i-inia-t lial- .a 
 il. ail ana Ji ;t \', u' la ii >i-l a -w .a li .a .' -p. .aa 
 
 III" iaii-! -pli aa; ! i\ till' -iia> nl ai iii. i a i- lii'' ,, - 
 -I : ' !'> ll-' I i:\ -I I niii.ai in ( l:ai;. - I. \, '. u V i.a' 
 ": ^'^ 'a -. Il iv a .li-a, i ai I I. laLai \\\\\\ ' L p ; > . a 
 a I I .:.f ' , -. lai!. . ,i llir vail- ..: ii,..-( ! 
 a: la n- m i -- i a i, a i n la ' ' I w il I ; -1 a i , 'I 1 a ' l l ai 
 ' ' :. ''I' aa n 11 : il - .]i||a p' : a. Ma ' ,: al la I i!-.\ aia 
 
 ^ I ' , alMil' !u . ,
 
 .i84 A JOURNAL OP TBAVELR IN 
 
 sacred deposit of the crowns, sceptres, diadems, jewels, 
 and plate of the ancient and modern kings of England ; 
 Jt is contained in a stron;^ stone room, which appeared to 
 have no windows, for tlic reg'ulia were ex'.jibited by candle 
 light, by an old woman, who presented the articles to our 
 view witho'it penriitting ns to touch them, she remaining 
 within t;ie grate auil we without. This was indeed a 
 sphrudifl display, fcir most of the articles are of gold, in 
 wh.ich nr^' set precio\is stones of the greatest beauty and 
 value. Tiie preciou-- stones, as they are commonly seen 
 in cai;inets of mineralogy, and even in the shops of the 
 jewellers, certa.inly do uot equal the expectations which 
 we have been acf-tistomed In enterta.in concerning them, 
 :-iP.d the reasoi! is, that in sue!) i)laees. wc usual]}' find only 
 nuddling or ijiferior spec-mens, and of a small size, bc- 
 . ause the iinest pecinic'.i& are too costly to be owned by 
 any but nobles and prince-, llut here, my expectations 
 were fuilv answered. The imperial crown is kept in this 
 room. The pari: whi. b. immediately covers tj;e head, is 
 a purple .livet cap, lined with v> hiie taffety, and turned 
 i![) Vi'ltii rows of ermine. The rro\\n itsi If is of geld, and 
 ricii!}^ ^M^Jr^^iy[ wilh pi';ul;-, emeralds, s;!:i[>hires, i-ubies, 
 and diuP.ion'!-. {; i , u:cd at coronation ceremonies, and 
 lias been p'iacf\J <! ;'h> ti<r;ds of the kings of j'higland 
 >uecessive!v fur i^crc ih^U: S(>v:n luuHh-eii yars. Hcsldc 
 tills th.eie are three 'jt!i(;r ciown^-. one of which is the 
 crovvn Cm" -laie, . worn by in-' ki;tg in iku!Jam<Mit. Ft has 
 uu 'niri':\!.i ui'^even i:u;li':s circiiu^f rence. besides a ruby 
 and i, p< :;;1 o; vrrv (jrer-.t beantv. Another crown is used 
 VIS a nif io. liio to t[!e f'rince of Wale- : it is placed before 
 him when he i.- in I\.rli;>.!iietii. tliat Ik .may be remindeci 
 of hi"' lu'/h oesuuN'. and at tiio sa'uf time ^wav !)e admon-
 
 I NT. \\;), 1!' Ill \ M) \M) ^t ! 1 I \\i( 
 
 4>liiii till! li'- i> ^till ;i -lil.i.ci. Til. i,' i. .:',,. (^)ii..ii 
 \|,ii \ \ (Ti 'W II, HI ulc-iii, ul"'"'. 'liiit ^11 j .;i ( , I ii> I i- ,1 
 '_'"M<-ii l1"I>''. \\ lii( li i^ n^i il .il (ruiiaiMHi- : iln ]-.\\i-: i'ii|.'> 
 
 it ill 111- rijill ImII.I litli'p' il-' Is i'|-(i\\ l|f,i. ;u!l .illi-l III.' 
 
 ci.iwii Is |i!.ici'l iijd'ii l'i> In, 111, lir III', 11^ ii iij lii> li ; 
 li.iiul. .ti:ii liM- ^''i I'll'' 111 lii^ li'jlit. I Ills :luli.- i> .ill'. 1,1 
 >i\ iiwln N in .!i mil \>v. i-.|-iil wiili jkmiI .imi ni'i; iiiii i:> i 
 \silli |ir'('!'i'i> nJiiik-. ( >ii ilii- i,i|i i> ;iii ;iiiii;li\vl III .1 
 \ ii.l- t I I i!i ii|-, ill ill i_i;i .I'l nil 11 .till I an 1m ll. ^1 I iijii !! .1 
 II ii~~ I'l 'ji 'I'l. .111.1 I'l'ii.iuK iiti"l w nil iii.niiiMiiN. |ii ai U. \i-. 
 I III- \sli"l'- !iiil .111 ! rilM i> 1 |i\i II iin !|.-^ i.:..li.'" I'ii. n- 
 .!it .I'MT.il -c. I'll I > Iwii v'.l\r|- imit^ I'll rhi i>!i I'iii:'-. ,i 
 '_'i'l'l -.i!l-ri :l ir I.I -I ilf. ,1 >\\ iM,| i.| nil ll \ . irit,'i><:if n ,',' ,,l . 
 wIikIi In r,irii"i| ht-lnri' tin- k:ii^ .ii r. n i in.il ii mi~. in !\\,-i ;i 
 till- iwii >uii!.U III |.iMi:i- Niiiiilii.il .f!:.| Iiinpi i.il. .-I,:,! .1 
 I'Hlf III 'Ji'l'li-ll -[111! ~ all'! hi ,11 I !! - .ij \ ri\ '^li ill .ilil i ; 1. 1 i i \ , 
 
 -ill 1 u 111 II -It (I ll I inaih iii>. 1 ill _i'Miii 1 ._ii 1^ a a ii.!> ; 
 '-Imj ii!i|i rl. It I Mill liiiN lllr i|.pi\ 111!. II-. ij 1.1 ,iiiM;ii! lir 
 ^..._N iii'l (|.ii'i 11- I'l l.n.lii.J. 'I'l,.' liii ' ; 1- li.'l!. 'W --ill. 
 
 I'll i- illlliiiliir.'.l ii\ ~i lr\'. lllj 'i ill" 111 I k, .111,1 ill. I'lMl.iM. 
 aIimi 111- [HI till l.iN llii' rri 1 I 1, 11'. i.I .iiii.i.Hir.'j. ji...ii-tii 
 
 111 .!!! 1.1 ill' 111 ..'x III I'll- lllI '! il'l.i .1 -I'liiMI - ll'iii'i. 
 
 \ 111' slail' 1.1 [..Iw ,i|.| tin- r, .;. --.i . ..in ,.( t!,, ,^ i \.. 
 !n1i.. ^. I'N ,1 Iiiii iiMiii,r. il 1 1| aiil :i|iii! \ . I ' is m. ai- t'l la i. > 
 .ill, I a li.ili led 1. ii.'j. ,1 II, I iir.ii 1 . I, nil lariii > 'a r:i i ' i;. ,. i - 
 ' nil'. It Is ,,! |i. .Ml 'I .I I'l. 'liii- - li-i' ' I.I :: . i !. a..i- 
 iiy I ll r.ir. mi.iI n .ii. I.i-ai'j ( ai i a I iii i ii' , ii h, ;. a i 
 
 illi' 1-ilij. ill >iii.-- ll;.-,- ..ni. I. -. li.. I.- !~ 111 \\\\ ,,!;i, . ,1 
 .1' .11 i!. i! ,i; laii ii.ii- a, III' I 111' J. I 1 1.-. ,11. 1 .,il I In la ,,\mi ;. \\ . 
 '- u i.ni li\ I'n 1. .\ ,il !ai!i:l\ i ai i ui .. ,.tii 'ii i i.i \ -. 1 1 
 - -I'l 'M ll lii.'x.' d'a ll - au' U"itii li"ii! ' i_!r II, ii'M 11' ,'
 
 ISO A JOURNAL OF TRAVKLS IN 
 
 ions of dollars, independently of several particular jewei;^ 
 whose value is very sreat. 
 
 It is not easy p< riii'ps to form a correct idea of the 
 a])pearance of the reir;dia, without seeing them, but when 
 it is considered that the gems are set in gold, not of the 
 pale colour of the trinkets of the jewellers, which are half 
 copper, but of the deep yellow hue which is characteristic 
 of gold, it will easily be conceived that the resplendent 
 white of the pearl, the fnic blue of the sapphire, the beau- 
 tiful grass green of the emerald, the rich yellow of the 
 topaz, the det-p red of ihc ruby, and above all the clear 
 transpan^ncy and mn'ivalled sple.uior of the (hamond, must 
 afford ail exhihitiun of magnificence and beauty not to be 
 sar|ta,:s((l by any ()l)ject of nature or art. 
 
 Sinrc (!;(. fctnio.is atfiMiipt of C()lon(>l f'lood, to carry off 
 tl'.e iiijicrial crown in tlie reign of king Charles II. in 
 whi' h altcriipt he wv,.^ frustrated by the courage and ac- 
 ti\ ity of Mr. ['.(hvards. keeper of the regalia, a very old 
 but intrepid man, 1 believe the crowns and other articles 
 of the regalia wliirh are occasionally wanted at Westmin- 
 ster, are carried thither privately, in a common hackney 
 coacli, wlllui'il any parade, or any circumstance whatever 
 whleli may serve to distinguish the transaction. The king 
 and prince of V ales array themselves in the pahice of 
 W'hifchail before ])roceeding to the j)arliament house, and 
 when they return, the crowns are carried back to the tow- 
 er in the same prisate manner as they were brought thith- 
 er, tlic distance is ai)out three miles. 
 
 'I 111' mint, which, with the houses lor its officers, oc- 
 ciipit s one third nf i];o. t!\vi\ \v^ ',ver<^ not permitted to 
 set'.
 
 \M). It'll [.\ST) A\n -. '/ri \\.) 
 
 \ u\\ w'.ii \'.i.,iil.'r [)nii,i|)> ili.it I h.iM' ,,ii.| ih.iiiiiii: (ii 
 tiM- w li'i li' a^t >. I CM'. Iidiii niir iiil.i:i<\ , in \in, i i, ,i w, lirai 
 
 -.1 il,;i il i| thf !lllll^ <'ii||!llic.| III III,' I.i\\. ; lli;il \\i n> \i-i 
 
 tin;!!, (; it \\illi(i;it ll;i> a -iri.itioii. \\ , lii.l i\,,{ jiasx 
 till hi ii\.'r. 1 In \ art' (amliiiril 111 ilni. ill 111 iijM'M \aiil : 
 an iiiia':i III a ii,.|i i^ hm i tin- ciitiaini . .mi:! a lull i mIN 
 til-- k<'>;i'i'. 'I 1:>' ilnw ;ii.' t'nrni--lic'i| w'nli -;;,,n' ir,,n 
 jratiuL^: tin \' aif >jiaci.iu- ami c|iap.l\: laiiiiliiii^ di- 
 . .'i''i ill!" !u " ajiai Iimail-. i liif In iP .itli. in w liirli tiic .ini- 
 
 n^ll^ ^I'ljl i! r'.i'jil!. I;: tlh' I'llli'l nl.'.\r. vs'i^ic tin \ Ic- 
 ni.illl (Inrillj ill'- (i l\ . 'I'll!' li.MMv ,;rr _.;. l.i!i\ lMi|lii\. 
 ipitu illi^tandni'.' lin-ir ronliai np iit. a'l.i a].|ii ir im'ir artivo 
 ami liNiK li; in mp w ii!' I i \| ,i c t to 'la.; lia in. 
 
 I ill' jiriipi|)ii anniiaU uhif'i v\i' -- i\\ w.ir Ipmh aipl 
 rpMii -VI s. liMji.i! 'In. pan! Ira V w i v. In ai>. w ulv i -. Ii\ i na-, 
 ami I a c. II 111 V. I iii i c w, a- a \s liili- | r ilai In ii i a a-tn'.iivii- 
 ill-j >i/' . ai|i| iiii;aiiii aliji- |ii"i;!\. \\ Ip n lia- Kiijir. 
 ]Miiiit-il a vtirk al iiiin. ip ll'W .a iln liii- willi laci iii ilili" 
 firn ripw. i.isi- n|iiiii liiN liiipi li :- I'll tin- tii n- an |ii||\ . 
 ami tiiii'W (i|ii 11 ^aili a iiphiiIi a^ iiupIi' iiic -IniiLp r. lie 
 lia'l\Pi\ laiL'i' aip| -;ii HP/ ti' ill. amiiiip.'lit lia\p 'iiiliiar- 
 r \ tip- IkhIs n! ,1 ini'i.lii' -i," ,| man w nil 111 in- Ian.' v. .\ 
 lii'antiiiiMilaik li'ijiai ai ~> alt! p till iii\ parliriilar att< i:- 
 
 t;.,|.. IIi-l toilll \va> I \i I r,!nP_!\ ijilpali' alpi li'l'.ial. 
 
 aipi all:pHp;li !il h'!-.. in a -ian u i- .hv|iip'ii,s';;i .\ \i\, -jii.t- 
 ,,! a Mill :|i I |ii I- Ilia I k. ^lii' \' av limn ;ia in.'.-t la \l,,la- 
 iiai . >iMiii iif t'lp- ainniiU \\ i 1 1 \<i\ iinn'. | lai t n al.n i \ a 
 ;; M (\ .a uhaii i.al la m; i nti a an intni: '.If Iri.aplvinii 
 w liii a IimIi' ilii'j. 
 
 'Ill, IP w '> ipp i^i.i li'in \',i;.'-i- lipap' \\ a^ (nil '/l""i' 
 ;; V a : i;ii i|- I'a v^ a- ii .1 . in i|i ~' ii'. Iiat . it i- a la niai iv.i' '. 
 4 ' t'aal l\Mi ip.iiiwcs wlurii Will' w Iplpi'il in lb' ^ a.M
 
 IS'6 A joi;r\al of travels in 
 
 are the tiercest animals there, while most of the lions whicii 
 were taken wild are quite tnme. 
 
 The most beautiful and at the same time majestic ani- 
 mal which we saw, was the royal tyger of Bengal. His 
 skin is sui)erhly vmiegated, with yellow and black, and 
 his form is more graceful and majestic, and better ackipted 
 to strength and activity than that of the lion. The palm, 
 I am sensible, has been usually, but 1 think unjustly, given 
 to the lion. 
 
 Perhaps it is not easy to say why a menagerie should 
 be considered as an indis];ensable appendage ot royalty. 
 One can discern, it is tru'', a kind of allegorical allusion 
 to dominion, in tlie character of the monarch of the forest, 
 but it will not do to follow up the similitude, lor here he 
 is ingloriously ciia^ed, d(\privett of all liberty, as well as 
 dominion, and even exiiibitf d as a sliow ; a miserable 
 plight for a monarch. Still less can one see why inferior 
 animals, distinguished only for ferocity, cunnina' or ludi- 
 crous teats, should be included in the catalogue, for, till 
 lately, even a number of monkeys, those disgustine cari- 
 catin-es of the liuman form, were kept in the yarti, and sut- 
 fered to so at larjre, till they were lemoved by his majcs- 
 (V's command, one of them liavini); attacked and lacerated 
 a boy. Such collections are liowever so gratifyiuir to cu- 
 riosity, and so instructive to those who study natural his- 
 tory, tliat every one nntsi approve of the prac tice of form- 
 lUiX lh<'m. 
 
 On !eavii)(T the tower, one of us was required to write 
 /lis name asid ad(h-ess in a bo.>k, for the obvious reivson of 
 creating a responsibilitv in case any thing sliould be mis- 
 ~inL^
 
 KNi.l. \Sl), IIDI.I. \M) AM) -ruIl.ANU. 
 
 INl IIM.N 1 
 
 l.Vf- -il'.cr i .lMi\('i| ill Ldllii..!!. I Ii;i\r In ill <H-,-;)i,ii',l 
 
 iii'Mi' Ml 1.^^. liMiii (Its I" il.i\. in (i li\i rill- ni\ i. iiiiiiiMpj- 
 li'iliisdl iui;-' .iiiirt:i,.i. .imi in i cii i\ iii'_' aini in.iwnij tin' 
 !i-^' (|in !it cil!-. I)<t,iil- dl' till- km I (.11111 'I i)c \<\\ 
 
 LMM!:!; Ill'i to Vi.'l, 1 tilf I'l)!!' |i,tNs lii( ;ii lijlnh, iiVtl-. ic- 
 ^'i'.'ij !;.' in'Kliwii tii ;|ii\ iii(i'i('^l hi" (!) I'MiNlaiiccs 
 \\lii';. Iili". l;i,i\ ji>cij',((' |ni tlh- |icii'il wlhil llics -li.ill 
 H'''" II. Ill i'-hv''! !ii_; I jiiirtK'il'.li IcIIi 1 (il in! IihIii, !iii:i [n- 
 il'iv .u I '.I 1 ,iii_ lIIi < I reel I, a \ il! rjr in Iii^' \ i' iiiil \ dl I .mi- 
 ili II. "11 till- \"iih Af-t, I Mii-t with a lilil'' Mili.iri .i-s- 
 in' '.;. I li I'l I .111 .i!l liic \s.i\, 111(11'" lliaii two in.K --. dii 
 [I'HjMi.c. an.! V, \^ i''i!\ ailniitti-ij li\ ilic |iMii.r. w'l.ii In ' 
 (111 putliiij in\ li nil) ill!" un |iii( l,ci. I I oi.ll iiiii IiimI any 
 Icn.'i'. It \s,;- 111 N.iin ilril I > xainiur 1 cMts p. Ml ol iiiv 
 (li(N^. II,, l,;i,', \s :-. Ill I).' I. .Mini. 'rin-ic I w.i^. ill lln- li.ill 
 
 ' ,1 'jii at iiMiTs li.iii^c, while ihc [Mirli 1' si 1 vv.iiiiir_' iii_\ 
 
 I i.iiiin Is. ami I li.nl ii'in. in nl!. |-. I n "" m ^^ a - iiii- 
 
 (M.s-ilili . laii Id Hire, it \v,in iidi .a^s. lail I |i II iii\ canl 
 111.! ail ,ipi i'.i _'\ . willi iIk siiAaiit. aial in, hi' I'l'' li'-t "I 
 ni\ \\ i\ lidiiii'. 1 i-ji' iiiirj lliat i.ii|i'a Ii'ctidn "I oar iialai >_. 
 \Uhi!i. \siii''' \\c .1 ( Ileal da aci d,i!ii|i-.:iia" an mi'i '"-I iiu 
 d!i|i i|. -ail' 1 - II- t" idiL' I llic 11' . ''--ar\ ri' an - nI .iM.iai- 
 
 ir; it. 
 
 < >ii llf I .i.i'i 1,1 I'.ii.iin^idii. i I \ ji r II k ( II!,' Ill ni\ w .i\ 
 .a.j I -tdj ,jii-, 1 I lew 111. iiiieiil-. Id .-, ;ii' \ dlai; 'I < r i _:;aicat ^ 
 anil \^ I V |;,i-sin^' innl'i ii \ p \\ . I -iidM!.| iin.i'jiiif* 
 'I'll- w 11 , ,i'),,ai I\v d ill,, avail 1 na": lli'.liN \v,i- liin', 
 tlnai a: in- ' lill' i'< 'i la ill'- -Mil. iir : I li> ai- w la i!, ,i jij m ,n aiiC' 
 \s.i- -I'l'ii' la I . 'Ill'-' .'I,- .1 j.i:l dl ill.' Ill' II ulid ai*" 
 [il' a.cfl ; 1 in ' i N.ri' iIcim >. r- ] [ ja i\ ,'.!': i\ '
 
 j(jO A .lornxAi. ov travkls in 
 
 MtiJ/ 26, Sunday. Xol having as yet formed an ac- 
 quaintance with any one, by wliose means I might be con- 
 (hicted to church, I went alone, at the hour of morning 
 service, to St. Margaret's Chapel. Beinij aware that 
 London ('lunches are not famous for civility to stiangers, 
 I entered with asi.vjjf^ncc iii my hand, intenthiig to L^ive it 
 to the door i^fepf.'r to p.ocure me a seat sliould noiii.' b(! 
 offered. I could hud no attendant, and .stood for some 
 time in the alley, lookinir for some one to off(M' me a seal 
 in one of the numerous pews which were eitlier jtarlidly 
 or w holly eiaj)ty ; numbers saw me, but no one troubled 
 himscll' a!)()Ut the strauLi'i^r. aad after standinii' among tin,' 
 fowt.iu'n and ser\ants, till \ was tired. I withdrew. At 
 O.vforfl I was siiuilarly situated, and finally went and sat, 
 throii'_''h the service, amo'itr the servan's under the palpil. 
 The pews, at lea<t in Loiid-):i, are generally locked wlicn 
 unoccupied, so that a btranir'i- cannot intrude, il'h(> would. 
 I attemptfd to obtain a scat at tuiothei- churcdi this morn- 
 ing, but with no b"tter success. I fell in with a regiment 
 of soldiers marchiiiL^ ont of the park, fidly e(|iiip[)ed and 
 drcssef!, and with martial music. Indeed tliis seeins to be 
 a fa\ourile day tor military exercise ; for, wherever I have 
 !je<!n (U! this day iii England, I have not failed to see mili- 
 tary s]K;ctacl.\-.. 
 
 A lio-inrvL. 
 
 M'lii ZJ. Tliere are a nuiub( r of tine hosjfiial estab- 
 ii~luii('i'it- in London. a!id although tlicy ;;ri- !ni',^<^lini prin- 
 cijj-i'Iy lo i;icdc;il le.en. ! sliidi (i''<ii^i<n;aily vi>it them, 
 amoii'i' til!' -.iirio;;-- of.jects of mlerest and curi'isitv \s-;iicii
 
 I N :l \ \|'. II 'M, \ Ni< \\:) 
 
 !'.' 
 
 I \l.i\r I). I'll lli:> Illiirnilr' t" o:: III til'' lill'lo! 1) -- 
 |mI,iN iiliii" I i!h ;[,i-|i';c it n ,.| ;i |.).\ ^k :,i;!. < n ,i! ii..ti'. 
 I. .l!i ,.1 Ivi:!,- ..i:.i .1! 1. I i .1' I:'. < ' - . \ -..,'a 
 
 \ I'l \ |Ki 1 1 'I ! iif i'>i.ili!i-liiii' 11: w .111 li !i 'i I \ ' , 1 till 11 i, 
 
 1 ri.,. i;I\ iiil, I im . t.i i!m 1 .'-,.iI.iN ..; !'i.,l,i.|i ijiii 1 .n;-! 
 N' ,\-N ..i!,, i>Mili ill I \:,']<i i'( ,11 r, iiiiiiiiM|;itl, r-,. .mm! in 
 
 liil'iH'-s Dr. \\.i-~ - ' ji'il'ir ,1- I'l n i|'ii -1 i.n' 
 
 \\,''U Jiniiiiii wiiii i;i;ii I" li' :i' !;> | .| is,-| 1 j M i. -n-. . 
 . 'I'll :!)( . \', i^'- .I'lii ]!! ' ! 1 ( 1 ( :,'-! llii'\ w cii? 
 .;,; M]' ,'\j, .,-;, >,', I !. i,t. ;m:J -'.:!!. !mii i1,.'V 
 lii'U f,i;.ri 'I'.l lirii iii^,-,.[ \ . 1 1' i!i,- I "r. |ii,-- 
 ,|. ,, i'. , I. I !. !t ,n-M I.-. W !,^.^:,| 
 .ii'>.. ! |.' l':'- !l-' vi 1; 1' -'. w ;i\ i-> II' 1 
 M ; I . 1 i . ! 1 , 1 1 1 ; . 1 1 1 1 1 . 1 ' i ; I : . ' I 1 1 . ; ! \ . ; . 1 . 1 1 - 
 nl . !'. i:m' -ii- !.. (!o! - ih ii I ;i' ..-, t,i ii.iv r i;.'" 
 . ^' N . : . ' .. ;:. !;.,,.! ^;: :V. ' ,//,/ 'I '/!,/ ^- .i .. \ 1 
 i',1 I c'li'^ il H i -I . \ lill .,'.(.'! I. I- 
 , '. ; I ''.^ . v\ 1; ;,. !|l \ '< [. ii'M . ' . I W .'.\ li:i\ ' \ !|1 I -.1 
 
 I i i i ji: 1--1 :i' "'I ' ,\ |. i|- I li'' j M I, ,| . ;in,| 
 
 ;'|.' _( ^:i- wi ( I.,:!'!!- :i! .,'. i-MiiM il.i 'ii-lM < |M l!l'' 111;- 
 '1 1 !:,!_ I M I I .;:;' ' \ w 1 1 . 1 w ' ; : r I ) 1 1 1 1 -i | m , ii ~ 1 1 ; i i i - \w i 
 
 i-iH.,. I ,1. r;. I M. \'. I- - ii- -i .It .1 ;.ii If, Ml ,1 i.ii ' 
 
 nil'. \\ :i li ; II' ':'- : : :.i i .m \ in ;ii!i i; i.'iifi . I !,'!' '^i 
 vi ' '! 'in-.i. ' 1 ; ' ii' !;. i in! nv|i I'l '> 1 i n . .i i 1 1 .\v i i i mi- 
 nimi' I ii;.in\ \' t\.- <<'. ]< < I'pil 'Ir 
 .m.: .-. .. . '] :. !);. .n!!,,! :'., ! 1- !: 111. . : .' ii;, nn,n 
 
 . .. ill. I.,II. 1. I ,,., 1,' 1-1. . I, .'..I (..uM
 
 192 A JOURNAL 0? TRAVELS TN 
 
 hardly have been heard at all : for the miserable spcakei 
 had scarcely begun, (with that nunnteness and fidelity, 
 which all observe, wlicn their bodily sufferings are the sub- 
 ject of narration) to relate his complaints, when the Dr. 
 sometimes inspecting tiie tongue and feeling the pulse, 
 and sometimes not, would cut them short with a prescrip- 
 tion, and the apothecary received the irrevocable mandate 
 to sweat or vomit, bleed or blister, starve or stimulate as 
 the case might be, and it was in vain, that the pati(>nt 
 sometimes protested against the treatment, as not adapted 
 to his case, because he could not bear it, or the Dr. had 
 not understood hirr.; tlie remonstrance was ended by a 
 loud call for ' the next," and thus, in half an hour, a score 
 or two of people were d mc up, aiid the Dr. hastened to 
 his coach to perform the tour of London, and prescribe 
 for patients of a highei order. 
 
 I do not say that he did not do all that the case admitted 
 of; his dispatch was truly admirable, and with such rapid 
 firing, no doubt he must sometimes have hit the mark, 
 but, wiio, putting it to his own case, would not prefer the 
 kind considerate prescription of any experienced person, 
 even an old i^ovum, if you please, to such giddy haste, 
 however scientiiic and h-arned. 
 
 MISSIONARY SOCIETY. 
 
 It is not niai'.y years since a missionary society was 
 formed in London, for the conversion of the lieatlien to 
 chiistianity. Amid the confusion and distractions of 
 w;u- a-id i)oIitics, and the eiigagements of conu/ierce and 
 business ami j)h'asure, there are men in this hurrii'd cii])ila], 
 who find time to tliink of the lieathen, and are willing for 
 their good to contribute both of their time and nioiiey.
 
 riirou-ii ti:- kill. !:!.-> if M'. II. r; ' . i 
 
 \\\]^ ,i;:i 1 ;>. im;i ill -;i,-Ii a ( 11 iV . [l ; . ' ^ c. ., 
 
 i!ii'Tior> iii liir iiii-Nii'iiiifv ~ii( .' t\ b.'! :i': : re 
 l\v :ir\ , a^Nf iii!)l. i! at ' li . ! iai < , ;, uni 
 
 .m!iia'-ia'i 1/ all rl, r.ral ai:;! \.:\ ;;a .;. aa-l ,::a.i '.a ai 
 
 ail II w iiav iiaaii > ail' will Lin iw ,i lai i ,! w i->l' a ii -ali' u: 
 t'i,- \'\ i:;lir. 'I'lirii- li'xai-s'aiii, w . ii- i aial' <1 I'a. I'lar. .'i- 
 -,,;'aia-\\ i^' . aa: 1 wilii \ia'\ liul!' li nana!:' '.-. ; iliii.ajii \\;;ii 
 
 ;i.,. '. 'i iairaal. 'I'l.l \\,ls -.a'snl t> :i:a .; ' iill'aiitn in 
 ' -. 'I "a A' \VVf lire I aa i \\ isll i'a'' :,;!( (-f lla 'a 
 ai';--!. a- ill ;:i' >i'a!ii ^r,L ai: i !' a I'll- I -laiiN, aiiii 1 I'. -1' a- 
 1 inr ;\\ 11 or liii I ' Ina!'-. \\ ii a a lii.ai i i<':r- ! n! ial' ii I. 
 ai r iiiiaiM!iPM;i 'ii-, w'la li a^ lln \ \vi ii' chii iis rnaia 1' a,- 
 ;ia!. aii,l ^nan- nl I'li-'ii naiiinatu t.aa'--^ i.I iiii-i! \ [''.< 
 
 laiia i:'\a I r aaia it w i! a | iT' j a i' I s ilr, a! 'la lam' ai .,:.a\\- 
 arr-. [irnliaiiU w ,ili Irata . a ra lanaai^ aii . -ii IhIji' .^1,1 
 
 all 11 lia' -IMa ini! ia ' la''! a , , i.' a . 1. 1 aa i,[ 1 1 , a : " \> ;: ll 
 a 1' I 'a i a , I II iMaiai a, ,1 \ : i '' . a : la, ar ! a ha . ai'.'a 1 ! 
 
 1. iiii lla' ii ; Ii_!t':i> \'. ''i '. I . i'> ! -I'liir'ia' iaia ii! liian.a > a- 
 '{rj. iii.ia wit'i a-, an i lln ir i!' j-i>riaii iii, Ir la I \,,a:',> 
 . a-'a 1 1' :a r . 1 i a\ ar i ~ 1 Ii -. ^' , aa aa > a; \. !, an i,a'. 
 a . ' , \ 1 1 \ I . a . , a a a I i ' \ f a a ! i i a ' 1 1 > * . , , I a . ' 
 
 a i':.- ail ' '. I. ! .a; lail ,,'Aa,'' liiai tin '. ar ' la^.. aaiM- 
 
 la. ,aal n' !i aa: ai liaar aii m 1 1 .a.al ! lUariN ;ia' v, il ' al 
 
 ,, la ill I a ill' 1-- [II'' 'la ' \\'.fi i/'i'iija, : 'nil' iiaiiii J ' - -- \\ \'.' : 
 
 n . 1 ' I . ' 1 1 1(" ' a 1 " 
 f! i ' ai r'w ] \ -Una. 
 ai I 1 '> rr.:s t!i>' ': n'
 
 194 A JOtRXAIi Of TKAVKLE, 1> 
 
 PA.NORAMA OF GIBRALTAR. 
 
 There are few objects of public exhiijitiori, so spiendici 
 and interesting as panorama paintings ; it is jjrobable you 
 will find me sometimes among them. They are the tri- 
 umph of perspective, and absolutely put one in possession 
 of the scenes which tliey repre^-ent. 
 
 Few scenes conld he more interesting than tlic rock of 
 Gibraltar and the ^Mlrronllcling objectSj of which, I luivc 
 this day. setn a panorama. 
 
 The stupendous and frowning cliffs themselves, with 
 parapets and embrasures cutout of the solid rock; the 
 heavy artillery pointed tYont them rising, tier above tier, 
 and pecpiagout of every rocky nook ; the water batteries, 
 less formidable, but more listinctly in view ; inilitary life, 
 active and exhibiting its proud array, upon the wharves 
 and promontories ; th.' contiguous coast and country of 
 .Spain ; the celebrated strait of (Jibraltar ; the remote 
 coast of Africa conslitutiiiii' the other side of the ancient 
 [)ii!ars of ilcrcules; the vast expanse of the Medilcrr;ine- 
 an, and the interesting Iiistorical associations of the v/hole 
 scene, and e|)ccialiy those whicii have been immortalized 
 by the pencil of our countryman, Trumbull ;* sucli an as- 
 semblage of objects, if painted with competent skill, must 
 'urely arrest the attention of anv man, who has the small- 
 est sensibility to moral or natural beauty and grandeur, 
 
 Siill, there are those who view suchthinas with indilfer- 
 encc, and there are those, also, to whom the beauty and 
 grandeur ol' hindscape and the splendors of the starry 
 r'aiiopy arc displayed in vain. 
 
 " ft is srni'ccly nrcfs^ary fo iiiiine tliis gentleman'? celebrated 
 jiictiu'e of the 'rortie of Uibraltai-
 
 /N'i.vsn. ;n'r.i.\Nu wd ii \nh 
 
 No. \m. LONDON. 
 
 \'l. Ij.!!!- |)i-'ri'>ii;lMii ,,r jui.'.'- lii.Tf Mi. Ml olilc- -Cm-.- ,1 n - 
 
 in- li ii''hHi--i>i -' :'i ' i Ml- iiiij '-111 nil tiii-ri_:iirr~ I In Tt- -Iti.i!' 
 
 ,,,.-- ,,| -mil'- III i'. (,:;:i < i \\ i -! iiiin -li-i- \l',r\ ll- ^^ 'l-niii!' y 
 
 aii'l jiaii'l'ur -- \r I'.iiii'ii!- ami iii-ci li'linii 1 )ili'<T>ni-i' "[ lli>' 
 
 UP .1 li; .iii'l ti, ' ; .11 I::-li li:.i.!.ii; I'i,|, ,.,lv . MiMMur ri.- 
 
 \ll.l.l'lll 
 
 U"'/ , . \'>\ 111'- iill' t it'll 111 nl' ,1 i; i. 1|.| I 11 c, 'i\,'\ ,1 lick- 
 
 .1 rilialin. Ill' t" atli-ll.l ih. '!l-tli!);i!i"ll ul' (ui/.fs ;it till' 
 
 ^lHlll^ 111' 111'- Vililjiiii. \t II (rrli.rk I ii|riin'.l 111 tin' 
 -|iii iniiii .iji.M mil III, ulnic t\ti\ _\i;utlit \ ni.ikf a |iii!.lit 
 iii>ii ibiiliuii 111 I III /.I ^ til tliuM' who ha\r ili>t!iiijui-li. .! ilnni- 
 
 -rl\ r-s 11.(1-1. ill l!ir CiilliN .iI'h.m t !' t III tl 1 1' ' i if U-( III 1 ,11 I>, !i.il 
 
 till- iiii.i iiii ,'_. 111! m; 111 w iih li iln ir .MM-ii't\ ua^ iii>tiliiti'i!. 
 'I'u. II 1' \\ ,11 il- .ir' in it f. Hill I nil in tin t Icjaiit art^ dl [laiiit- 
 iiIl: Jili'l ^rii!|il!ii !, iii;i an- ii ai hTl r. 1 i']Mall\ lai tin' ill- 
 \ ciiliii ami iiii|Mi i\ 1 : ^ n! lln iiin^l Iriiiiliir niailians ami 
 ri .1,1 1 i\ aiiiiN Iii|- I i( ilii.uia'j llii' iiii.^t roiiiiaiiii ujiri at a ai.-i 
 III liir. i -.iv iii-i,ii:ii-. 1 -aw a iii.u liun' ,il llir .\il Iji.'ii. 
 liir iiia!iliii_' -ih.iiii.il.i r^ til -tail. I .it tin ir wm!.. i)\ \\\,]< ii 
 iiii.i'i> till \ i/ias' 111' ii'i:i\iil Iinin tin' ji.niiliil ain! ...- 
 I III iiniN riiiiliiii iin ,it 111 \\ liii ii till \ ai ' iui\\ 11 'III jii 111 i| ti 
 
 liliii\i'i| \iiv la.il.' -.i''i-,i,i( inm iii'iiiiii'. \i-;t.li.|- tin 
 ,i!iai tun lit-- Win al|i'a';\ -n iliimiji.i \.'i:!i I.i -lin .ii.,!.;t 
 [11 i;i|i-. a:i,l \ulii -.!iaii_:i l~ nl ,ill i.ili'x-. hum Tin |>ii--iaii 
 .iiii'M-^ailni i|.i',Mi. I hat .it'll I s;riiL"j!ai'j ,i Imi^' turn- in iiia'%- 
 111.' ai- w i\ I ;i.i a 1 I nu lit .! |i 1-^.1-1 . ami :,lti i I i iinj nun 
 
 ;a!"hi'il. ih ii\\ I . I .lii'l (iliv-i ,1, i,;i t \ CIA >a;r. ;ii| ,'.1 ,r M . 1
 
 196 A JOT .nXAL OP TRAVTLS IN 
 
 found that I was still no nearer to entering the door tiiau 
 at first. I obtained only a ver}' imperfect view of the fine 
 paintings which adorned the walls, and witnessed abso- 
 lutely nothing of llie ceremonies of the day. except the 
 pleasure of a fasiiionable scpieeze, from wliicli, although I 
 had the honor of bcii-ig shoved by lord aiui lady, I wa.? 
 .sincerely glad to make iny escJipe. 
 
 I saw mere boaiuif!:! \\oineu liere than I had seen any 
 where elce in F-nglaiid. 
 
 ALIEN OFIKX. 
 
 Two or three -days after my arrival in London. I went 
 to the alien officv', and presented the credentials with 
 which I was furnislied aJ f.i\erpool. The alien oHice is 
 ..f recent esta.blishnieni. and v.as instituted in consequence 
 of the abuse of the almost unrestrained liberty which lor- 
 ricners had, till tlien enjoyed in Eneland. It is said that 
 some French emiss;iries were detected in surveying the 
 p/rincipal porti. and in other machinations against the 
 safety of the country. In consecpience of this, foreigners 
 cfeveiy d'_"--cri{'tio!: are now rei^'i^lered at the alien office 
 in (.'rrvi n-.;i:'i'' i. Vv'estminSier. iind the eovcrnrnent ])0S 
 sc- '-(';- a hi-;':'r7 "l' iV.rni fmui the moinenl of their arrival 
 till their d:'t,ait;;;c (.'it of ]]]< l.ii;irdi-ni. '. >nmakin'i my 
 aj-nearance at ti.r - ;"ke, i a':\< rrjiriiiiaudrd in dir tirsl 
 iii^lance, U<v iu:\\\-\: teniaiiud '-eveia' days in London 
 M iihout rrp(>vi.l!!i:: MVs'';!'. Iiiijide :-rch (^xcdses however 
 as v.'^re ar.-cpi< .! : [\\]i\ ;-:';"r .vjitiu'j iu .1 I)oiik which they 
 gavr- uic. \uy ^v:ii\''. ,^".{0-^1,,]). ;t'fc. place df ualivity and 
 rrsidfuce in .".le.''} ica,. insiia'ss ruid vi;>v,s in Ihigland. and 
 in short. t\(>:y circu';!^t;ii" e v.iiich \\a' i;ecess;uy io < \- 
 lubii a >uccirrt fii'-tdj-y of liiy-'-il. J was tr'xt directed, thi
 
 hS..|.\M). II'HI. KND Wn -11)11 \M), 
 
 IP? 
 
 iisiiriiii: iii\ '^ii.mI l)c!i.i\ imir. tuiMiui' --[(uiixirs n-^'uiiii^' 
 111 I .oiiil.iii. I \\ a^ tliiMi i!i'-iiii>^fil (111 -liliri.iiiC'' m;I\. aii'l 
 , lilt (I I'd t.) call ,11- SI nil \^ illiiii \\\'i or tin >' <1 i\,--, u inn I 
 \va' |iiM:niM''l a pi'niii--i. 'ii to rr-ii'..'. \cri,i .In:.'!;. . it [.<- 
 iiij ini'iiii\ci:iriit lor ni'' to '.'o. 1 (lrspat< !i;'il a 'I'i'N iiit ,:\ 
 till' a|ij)o;iHr.| tinii', \',li'i \\a^>|!lt l)aik ('in].i\. and willi ,; 
 iiii'>-a_'i' tiiat 1 iiri-t coiiii- nu'-cll. I Imm' lii'cii tlirr.' ti - 
 i!;.\ . aii'l loiiiiil ail auL'iA i inloi-^finiail ii|ioii t!ir imli' u iiii ii 
 1 ii 11 1 ^1 '111 lis t'li'^ -I I \ aiil, till' puiiiorl III -A iiirli u a^. llial I 
 !ir;-t nut |iii^iini to -.iiii. Imt nr.-t cniiii' in mt-miii. I 
 |i'!iiin;-tiMlri| i.M till' iinpio|iiii|\ 111 I ii' riai-'i: a-, a^ lln\ 
 had tlii'iii-i'lM- iifiiiid i.if till' aUi i;i iiiM'. Ii !t I r.rii\(,i 
 oiils a \i i\ n1iiiii aii^wc!. ai.ii imii'iii 1 inijiit llinilv iii;.- 
 -. !l \ I I \ liirtnnati' i,i nhtainiirj ^o m.i .n ni\ w i ;;'i'ii pi a in i-- 
 >i'iii III ii'-i |i', I' a' pi I -I HI > an -oiiirtimi < vn'i'ic!.',! to s t \- 
 ati'ill^ ill la\ s at till' a 111 'li oil!' 1-. a 111 1 li' i fla,v> 1 1] p , ij ^^' iv 
 >-ii impatiriit oi ilii'-i- ilila'.v, (,rii| ilic rm, 'in- iijifut 
 wliii ii --1 iii:i-tliiii'^ att'aid- t'liin.a- \ iiiiaar :;;>. \)i \ini-- 
 lica.i 'ji'iitlrinaii nl ;iir 111-! i '-prctaihlil \ . ai; , .'\ 1 i_li 
 vtaiiiiiii'j in lii-i own riiiiiitiA. ma Ion- ,i.;o a.pp'i 1 in ti:i: 
 alii'll iitiirr lot hi- lirriiN,'. ||,' \\;|s !."p[ :,:; ,. I ,i;_r lim. . 
 St a 111 i in;: in a 1' .!i'i\ . aim mtj a ci'i i\\ a i ; r^ > ir-o ; .i i ii!!. i!!': 
 hi^ pall' ma- \i, a> i;iii!>' i \:iaii-! > ! h a : i i !: i a i !' a;- ;iMti d 
 \\ M ii laif of liii- pill\ oiiiiaa^. alli'iijii)^ wili; .:,..'. -;;>t 
 ail'! spirit, that hr \\a- a ^i iilii arm. aial la. a i ; 1 i i a ac- 
 .oi-!oiiir.i to iiva'ji'iil thi^ kiinl. 'I'iii' o;':' a r h>.; !;!:ai 
 aiih 111 ich ^v///:^' ^,',/. and thai \ii\ i > " ,, ; d an 
 i^'i ndaiii to tinn iiiai i^ii nf dimis. \\ii'ii '.. ..{ ...a' uas 
 '"\'' iiii'l ill "I diii_d\ . 'I'hr ad\intiiii' u,t- a. -i.liiirt (i; 
 -ma iiiiiiii ,tai.iii I ihi' _rii! h man'- \ nu'i i aai ; .'ii'iiiN ;a 
 ' '''!' II It uas iiiil\ a vtri,!:!- in-tan. r oi' i-. '.sii'd .
 
 198 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS I.\ 
 
 UcanviPiil vvliic.h is too often experienced from the petty 
 scrv;-iits of the alien office. 
 
 1 an resiiicted to London and the country within thir- 
 ivcr, iMil^^s of it, for tin-ee monihs, will) directions to com- 
 ir. i:!", ,.,e ov< <} c!i uige of lodgings, and to apply for a re- 
 iievva! of tny iicep.st' ;u the proper time, and for a perniis- 
 si.vi to trns ;.! \v!h::i;HTr I shall go beyond my prescribed 
 liiiiit .. Vv <'i'e \t not however, for the inconvenience which 
 ns;jht attend kavi.ij.; the country, an American might. 
 Vr"!l-ioui dangpi'. disregard all ihe.-^e petty regulations, be- 
 oaiisc, if he ci/OfsseK to keep his own secret, he will never 
 be kiiov-r. iV >in dv I'^nglishnian, and should he be found to 
 b.' ail vn.iCiir'.Ju notislag but the grossest indiscretion on 
 his p:!;l. W'U.Ll induri' ai'y ( ne to trouble him. 
 
 Siiti'i are the !ii'.l(kst restrictions imposed on every for- 
 figuer : it uiu.^t be confesi-ied they are not unreasonable, 
 but strangers are nut treated ;U the alien otrice with that 
 mildness and lenity which becomes the character of the 
 nation. There is a set of inferior ofllcers who behave with 
 rudeness, and exercise a sort of petty tvianny over those 
 wlio are waitin<r f )v t'leir favours. Ihn so far as I have 
 s'een the superior olfK'ers. they have conducted vvith (H<{ni- 
 <y an;l politt^ness, and althou<_di they ouijlit not to be cen- 
 sured for the rudeness of their substitutes, they ought to 
 1(;iili theui better niaimers. 
 
 The irritation of mind proiiuced [)y the petty \e.\ations 
 d the alien oflice, wa'< efi'ectually ri'nioved by a visit to 
 Vt e^tminster Abbey. 
 
 \Vi:S'[\-\i[.\STKR AHBFA'. 
 
 fu tiiis veiie.'atcd sanctuarv of heroes, poets, orators 
 and 1 iuijs. 1 lii'.'.'i-;-"f' n''ar!\' tvvo iiours amouir the monr'-
 
 1. S..1. \Nri. .i.ii.i.wn AND -(Mii.wii. 
 
 1)1 
 
 I'Mil- 111 jii ii'.rr^ aiil il'ii^li hiiis iiii-ii. v.ir'>'' \irl;it-, aiul 
 I il'llt^ ! lli\r till' [Millllll jlciiiiii (,| lli^Iii|\ Willi liric ;iiul 
 
 lin 11- .1 lumliiMiis -.|iiit. |),> 11, ii sw^nci-t iin- >>\ iili'-'ctalioii 
 in tli> 111 itttT. u'lK'ii I i|i-( 1 tn- to \uu. |li,tf 1 Ml \'i \ K in 
 -' >.i!i Ilia a [liar.-. 'i In: r, iniltiU'-i I i-llrct f\ \U\^ iiia^Li 
 |iii' ! ( lalilc arrliiiri'iui,'. aii'l ni ilif niiniiinn^ iiiniiii- 
 
 111- '111- nllii.' jrral. liir (> Irl .1 at n i a 1^1 ll|f 'Jo,.,!. W 1 Ium a^l Irs 
 
 III' ! il:irr 111 |-i . lillv till' iiiiihl w i(!i imiaaciiiiK . siiliHnu . aiiil 
 
 tli-t (il. V .1 'Ji :i|i inl ,111' i -111 111-. < >1 tills _'|airl M lllliaill n! 
 
 <.iiI!l'- ,ir.lnii-,-i,;i ,-. 1 shall imi aUi-iii|it a ili-s<-| i|aiMii. li 
 vv . i!il- i ill iisi !( -V u iilimit till- ai'i 1 1! i Ira u iiil's, aiul I Ip rr a it 
 [a mis III \\ I ^tiiiiiisttT \ iilh \ .* Il 1 nil \v 'lirji mil- Ilia \ uliiaiii 
 a \i\\ CHI I IT I iiji I 1,1 its I \Ii-i iial aiipi :il aiiri-. 'ml i;i if liiii'_; 
 slmit III ai'tiial iiisj.' 1-111111 ran raise in 'In- luiiiii iliusi- cnil- 
 ri'jili MIS ill sMlniiiai \ au ! -^i aii.li-iir. w iiirli ii is laiji iMi- 
 -III ti) ti-il mi iiiii I ill.' iliis -jii- ii as s hi in III' lilt ilhisii i.iiis 
 Ji-a-l. \\ ill 11 a 'hi\. 1 \vas sH'oir^U inn u rss,-, |. |i\ sninr 
 Hi! hi p i|H-i s 111' \iic!is,,i!, \* illi a w ish til hi 1 mill \\ < st||nn- 
 -!t-l \ hill \ . .ii,.| II \\ IS 111 I sail! 1 a-h !iliiiii 1' 1 II I \ I i!i i-ai r 
 h' |i-. ih il i u a- i-iijiti hijilalii)-: ihi- saiiii' 1 iln rl s w iiu |i hail 
 hill' 111 lull' r\i ili-.l ,1; Inn: . 1 iio-i' 1 i-i'i rtim:- u ilh \\ inrii hr 
 has ii!-!iiir', 1 ! a I;. 1 . ir h '_: i ii i iiiankiiii i. \\ 1 -iniiisit 1 \ !i- 
 iii v' 1 Milalii- Im-, 111 niN inti i<--rnij ihni-.s (,, a hiiil nl ahi-- 
 ijiiaii- i|i--.'a i|il ii in. \silhiii aii\ nanln \\<- hiin;^. | s|,,i:i. 
 \\ I ; a 1 a I 1 1 1 1 ! , ' > : . \ i - : l it a j . i : i , . ha', in ! ' 1 1 i n a ' ; I a a . i - : i i a 
 III- nl 11 HI a Ii'W iih-i rts. 
 
 I il'- ai.iirnni-nt 11 1 I ti'h t i i in ini iiajl \ i.l ^1 a 'i' \ iim! -, 
 .;Ilii- ' ': a -all!! "a'-. iMli rall\ .iMr i-h ;- :-;i -il:..!) , '' 
 
 ii.i"' \\ 1 ' .;/. 
 
 a !> . 1 . I I . 'ImIj ;ii a 
 iii'ii, aiiil !. ^ Til' :'
 
 200 A JOrRNAL OF TRAVELS IX 
 
 an American. I was gratified to see that the inscri])tion 
 contained no reflection on (General ^\'ashington, notwith- 
 standing the injurious aspersions which were so liberally 
 thrown on his character at the time. Now, I believe, he 
 is universally allowed to have done only his chity. The 
 monument, which is of white marble, exhibits an histori- 
 cal sketch of the last scene of Andre's life. They are 
 leading him to execution, and (ienera.l W ashinaton is rep- 
 resented as refusing to receive a message which is at that 
 moment brouglit him by a ilag of truce from the English 
 general. The countenances oi' the surroiindlnt^ American 
 ofticers are expressive of the deepest sympathy in the suf- 
 ferings of the gallant victim; but it is well known that 
 General Washington was not present at llie execution. 
 
 The mob liave knocked off ihe heads of Andre, Wash- 
 in<rton, and another American officer, \vhich sfives the 
 monument a deformed nppearance. 
 
 In the Poet's tlorner, amonij: many other monuments, 
 are those of (Jay and j>en. .Tonson. 1 was much displeas- 
 ed with the inscriptions upon tliem, Oi! tlie latter is : 
 
 " '.are Een. .lousou !" 
 
 On the former 
 
 " Life is a joke, mill iiiilliinss pIiow it ; 
 I thouglit so oticf!, hiil now 1 kiiuw it.'' 
 
 Surely a sepulchral monument is the last place on which 
 a witticism ought to tippear. 
 
 The chapel of King Henry \U. is a splendid piece e( 
 Ciothic nrchitccture. In o'le n;c!ie of this cliripd lie the 
 cotTms of a Spmisli ai'd ;i Savoyard a'nljj'ss i 'or. wh 'SC 
 bodies, after death, were seized for debt, and having never
 
 i.\i.l.\Nf). !'iI.!\N[> -.M) -(' ri\\iJ. .I'll 
 
 hM'ii rcilf'iii' il liv ilifii' iVii-iiil^, ii,i\r 1,1111 ill !!'. iiii:)ui i<-(i 
 V\fr simc the 1 1 i'_'i) I'l' Jaiiir-. il. 
 
 ! ur -. :!!if piir;.u>c .ii' >t.iti . t'lir Ciirriii of I .lUv anl I. u,i 
 n|M 'icii. ,'.!mi!iI tiiirtv \iar^ au". .imi lii> l)ti.l\ ua^ loiiiiii 
 iii'li ' :!\< J. I'l'tainiiij !;- i'.tiii. 'I'lii- ciirni Iia^in'i Ix.Ti 
 .' 'a'm (li |jn-i!iil ill t!i>' \ aiilt. !iiil i 'inaiii> alxivc .ji..iinil. 
 I; i- III.'.', ':ii>\ t\ ! 1-, c'apv .!. Tilt' < \tiliiir ciliiii i^ ..! >i,a!,>. 
 
 '[']'.' amii-iU iiiniiiiiiH lit-. 1 iiiian clmilv tlio-r wliirli 
 .I!'' at l-a ; two iT tiu'i- ( lutai a-- "I'i. li'MHial'v .'xlnhii an 
 iiiia-.'.- (.1 till' jK i-m!i wliom tin y laiiiiiii.-iniaatr. !_\ iii'_' al 
 lull I'ujt'i. Mi:;\ oi' ili'''ii ,iri- clal in -nit- "! ainiinir, 
 u !lli Ih lilt-. Ill iiii' t -, aii't -u oi'l- : tiifv lii- on tlii-,i liack-, 
 aii'i !rf(|:a!!l!\ Ii;- SiaAf Isiii^lit i> attt-inlfil li\ lii- lailliliil 
 ro'i^i a I. \'. no ; jm.m- ii\ iii- -idc in all tin' -lili' .irapi i\ ot 
 lii> aji . n niii n.i siitii |- -till liv nn-Lillnl >rnlptini in inar- 
 l)'c. Noiliiii ^ can II'' nior.- prn i>i- ami Lri;i\ ' 1\ InnnriMi-. 
 til -n - ir!i an i \'i;iHiioii, anil il ri-i|iiirri| all tli'' -"[rinnity 
 a:! I iia''h.N (.1 ;iir ni-i I iiitioiiN to iiiilina' a |ii"|'i i L^oasity 
 o: ili.i!i_'nt. lihl. . il. It - i-:n- tliat l!i>' ta-!'' v\ a- allo-,-iii.i 
 
 an I ! 1 liMa oil- nllr. 1 !.ii| llir\ |i|ai-r,l til.' k 111 J 1 1 ! - on ; I iri 1 
 
 !.''. all ai nn i| raji-a-pi.'. it uoii';.! liaM- linai a n; ifr-.-nta- 
 li>ai oi' liir. an '. tin' iinpn --ion won!. I !ia\.- h. .-ii a nalnral 
 oiii'. I'. I It uiial !ia"~ l:a' kni'jnt in aiinoiir (oiloi.ii In- 
 :>ai's ,' llrrinint 'm' -ini|io-'-il to In- -lain in coiiin.'t, oi 
 I' p.oiii- ill iho I,, M 1.1 lianji' ; -till li -- ill tin- Imi-mihhI 
 111- own r a - 1 ' 1 . o ] ( ' \ I 11 1 ' 1 till 1 1 a n 1 1 . : ' r k 1 1 v n ' - ' i - i n 1 1 i 
 hina''i i. la a' ilo llav '.'o ii > ! icil m a inn mi , 
 
 'I'lir - inn' 'iml o|' a i;'. ita t it >! i- i h.m -a aiai 1 V ' \ Ini m n . , 
 ni tin' nioiiti:n< an- oi'iah''-. in'I n i -ti n . n:-!i>-. I 1)_\ ini!.iaiy 
 apjiiaiila:'!'-. '! 'ii ic u.i- in mi oi jio: nnr \sli.i l-t la i 
 iila. in a l.iinii r i' a ni. !i\ tia- pmiitni o| a ]iin in li< i lin- 
 ,an'. >lii- i- 1 lana - nti'k in m o'.'.-, -niai ' n""i' Ik i i^'-'i
 
 202 A joi;r-\al of travels >n 
 
 tomb, and raising her bleeding finger, as if to excite com- 
 passion, while she is looking at it, with a dismal expres- 
 sion of pain and fear. 
 
 Tiie modern monuments are much more dignified ; they 
 represent living men in natural attitudes and situations, 
 and excite interest, sympathy, and impressions of solem- 
 nity. 
 
 Among these I was j)articnlarly |)leascd with the monu- 
 ments of Lord Mansfield. Lord Chatham, Ceneral Wolfe, 
 and Captain Montague. From these scenes I returned 
 home, meditating on the vanity of human pursuits, the 
 emptiness of sepulchral glory, and the poor rewards of 
 famt;, even when its object is enshrined in Westminster 
 Abbey. 
 
 London already begins to grow to a considerable de- 
 gree familiar, and 1 now find my way from one part of tiie 
 town to anollier without difficulty. But the place is huge- 
 ly overgrown. If one has concerns of business, or engage- 
 nieiits of civility of any considerable extent, the probabili- 
 ty is, that he must travel eiglit or ten miles a day, and ol- 
 ten more. 
 
 Mcy 30. London is justly renowned, all the w(rld 
 over, tor its charitable institutions. As I was jiRssing by 
 St. raul's this morning, I found no small dil'iiculty in 
 winding my way through an immense crowd, asscml'led 
 around the rhmch, to set' the procession of the charity 
 childKii, who, to the number olsix or seven tliousand, as- 
 semld.' annually at St. I'auFs, on the last Thursday (;f May. 
 
 I met sevend companies of them dicssed in unilorm; 
 they a|ip(>ared neat, healthy, and clKMM'ful, and were of 
 both sexes, and ;reiieral!v under tu'. l\e years of a'.-e. I 
 re<jreitcd tlnit 1 liai' no nuNius ot' prociirine; achni^s'uui to
 
 !.\.:I.\Mi, lli.l.l.\M \M) >ii>ll \M, 
 
 .>o; 
 
 Uir rtliL'ii'U-, r\<-iiiscs 111 (lie (iiiy. Ft u.i> a tliiii_' uiii'ij 
 iinpii<\ \M>iiM woX Ihiv, ami ss liirli I liml no owv In jnoiiir*' 
 
 t!>l 111!'. 
 
 < )ii in\ \^;l\ li.ick. I stopjitii mi lidiir at I'iiiiock's Mi>- 
 iia,:i ill tilt' StiMiui. 'I liK i- In lar the iiiiI r\iriiNi\- 
 an ! iiitric^tinL' rdllrcti^'ii kI ii\ iiii: auiiMaU lii.it I iia\i' iv- 
 
 T -.-. 11. It CM'f. .N itii! ill tlir I'liw.T. I'llt it is illljiiis- 
 
 siiilf in\- iiif. iii\ il<'ar hf.ttlitT. t'l .:i^'' aii\ tliiiii' likr a 
 
 (111!; j .'.I ti- ill vrri| -t i,)ii 111 liic \:ir;.i|i> -. llic'tiiMi^ .iinl ciiriiis- 
 iii^ - wliiiii i\>r\ (la\ liiiMi/^ I" ni\ imti.-c. )-,// umi:M 
 
 IImI 1.,1\i' |r Hi' UI-i- fn PM,I. n.'l iia\r / tliU'' til W IMi' -MH h 
 
 1 1.1 1 : 1 1 t.iiU. \l| 1 1 1.1 1 I r:in ill) i. 1,1 ciiiiiiiTi u illi (ill' liis- 
 liil". Ill iil\ !;< ill lli;> ciiMUlrN . L'' ii'l- il it'ilir. - ( l' llii' iiiT. |-. 
 cviiii' iiiMi _'^ w liirh I vcr. wiili ilr^cri|ii il ln'^ iif ^11' il jrn- 
 
 [irnl.l! - a- -'; i'vi' !;)!' Ill'i-t Iii!ri'i!\. I , \ i 1 1 1 1 1 i s \\ i 1 1 | i r- 
 !ia[.- Ill [lii.il-. !>;il l:i\ ,i;m1ii'\ iihivI h,.. jjiii |i|\ [i|;-;,i. 
 (lal IK' ii\'' Iiir wril'iij ;!i;> ]iMirnal. \^a- In cimjiI; wiiii 
 s I iiir w :>']>- a ; 1 tn /i n il\ a iiw i a li i li ! iiiN. v\ li -, .ii- 
 1 ' : mi!' |i ii'vi! I \ \\ '[\ ill. 111! tip in t- > 1 1\ n ! I's I'.n' niia- 
 \ni !i!ili' ( .v'l'/. ' 111 a I ii'i ! ainaiiri'. in wiiiili ilii' urihT 
 i:;':^! cnii-taai'l'v ;- i '% <: lian-i IT. il in' -.miuM li- l.iitlilul lit 
 111.- ti ut'i. < >ai II' i\-. il I- l! il'. lil^i- ( I'^ai. --all^^ltllt^ ilir 
 'in 1 I iM,,,-! !,.| ;!, t'v^l. Ir.it (ill-- i> I nil re iiitrnilt '/ 
 'A '//. .-.1 !. ill 1 1,". , 'in !i'-- i.iiiiii'!- liian ( 'a--ir. vv mijii 
 , ;~.ti\ i-iiiivi,!. I . .i a- I \ nii'li"/ th-- m i \ iliin w iia ii il 
 
 iM- \ tiilii'!.. 
 
 \ aim:: ;' I- 1 h / ai;:;i: lU at I'r !'' nk'- . ail \\\n iii\ a! ti- 
 : li lai 111 n'_ lI : a iiiaani i liniii---.: Iah lii'i' ami 
 iM'iri jiii, i:- !|iiin ^iiiit'i XliMii'M ill'.' iiiT N vjiotici! 
 r, 'a ' till' l''<;'nii; i Imiiiiii'; I'ni'iri nr ti'r hum tin' 
 r.a-i 111 i'l-. :i s,N '!! h ,1 ! ;,ut'inl ;,Mi.,.:il ulm ii i> i;-. il li\ 
 i!i" \-', Iia- iiiiM'->'> in iiiiulina : il i- -ai'.i llial 'iii/S' 'M i_>
 
 :^04 A JO'oUN'AL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 t'nem on the pommel of the saddle, from which they spring 
 upon their prey, particularly the antelope. There were 
 two hyenas, animals which no degree of kindness or fa- 
 miliarity with man can at all .soften from their native fero- 
 city ; a nlnjl-ghaw, a large animal resembling the elk in 
 form, but having a head like that of a horse, except that it 
 is crowned u ilh horns. 
 
 The elephant held the first rai.ik in size. This animal 
 was nearly nine feet high, and 'ooks more like a huge rock 
 than a living animal. It is wf>nd(>rful wit'i what ease he 
 ' wields his lithe proboscis."' [t answers him all the j)ur- 
 poses of a hand, and as Jiu'T.jn remarks, he carries his 
 nose in \W' same orgaii, and dies unites touch, smell, and 
 the jiower of grasping, all in one member. Without it he 
 certainly could not subsist. I threw a small key among 
 the straw on the lloor^ when, by the direction of his keep- 
 er, he found it with his proboscis, and gave it to me. 
 Ceiug asked how many gentleu)en there were in the room, 
 he iiave as many short l)reathings as corresponded to the 
 number, and the same for the ladies ; in the same manner 
 he told the ages of two children tliat weie present : he 
 bolted aiid unbolted the doors, picked up my cane and 
 liave it to me, took olf the keeper's haf and put it on, 
 thrust his probuscis into my waistcoat ]iocket. and took 
 out a piece of mon(>y that was t,liere, \c. W ell might 
 Mr. ['ope call him '' half reasiuiin'i elephant.'' 
 
 Among (lie Mualler animals were s(.'\('i'al kan:;aroos; 
 tlicv l-aiC v('i-y slioit fore legs and very louL'' hind ones, 
 on whii h they >tand erect, and one of them had been 
 taiic'hl to l)o\ V. ith his ket^per, wliilr in this attimde. and 
 might h.iv ;nade a very Ii'l-'ra!.l(^ pupil of Mt.'udo/.;'. with 
 at Ica.si a> minli that was liuman about liim.
 
 riirr.' u.i- ,1 \i rv L'Vi .it i-i)|'r,;iM:i of :\\,.'\\,'\^ and i);:b- 
 iiniis ; lull witlitlii^ !) iil'-^'jMr 11)1 ihi- ,: i:;i.iii I'lMii. ! ;iiii 
 ;i!>.\.,\> (livjii>t,d. ar.i! I'-.-l ^11-i'iiscd 1,1 v;i_\ , .,s ;!,. l-.i;)- , i 
 
 I'.iul.llld. MIldiT thr lilll ul' K'll'J I'l' I'lr l;ii.|lJlli,l_^. 's I'l Ji- 
 ll -^1 litre I ill a I III' iMiiraiaii pi in!, a- >a\ U".' i-f I'n ii, ipai !'. 
 liU'ii r till' rli.ii ai ii 1 i.i ( uilli'. > r. I li'' kih/. w itli an .>iH : , 
 '_li-N at 111- r\r. l.M.k> iiili imK at lin- lilli.' ii',\aiii r. win'Mi 
 IP lliiM^ il]i 1)1 t\\i 111 III-. tiuii:i!i a;,'i lai a-r. \v\.\\: \\r pi ;:- 
 ' '.:',\ \'i.ii!a-. I am o! n|,li,i,a; llial n is ,i ii,..Nt M.|ii' " 
 
 I in,-' ii"t niiiii t.i ana.ii.i , Ma- liii:.' !i.ill t.iki ii fi > 
 
 I :ir ail an jiaii' nl lip; ,^,i,i. :t .'^i'; in-i p i!;ii,;. !! 
 
 M' 1\ i\\(i I, , [ s, A, II lai'la - l.i. .1. ;i:i''. i- ki [it 'n 
 : 'aii't u liii !i la i aio liki . -. 
 
 X ,. \I\ ._!.()\!)(v\, 
 
 w . 11.. 
 -w.al.i: V. 
 
 M.n, .:i. I .iai 
 At !a. i.il.'. I Ilia 
 
 ..1 ( m! a;,l.a-. 
 
 I. Wi ~l I. a .. 
 
 : I a! n.ia > i , '. 11. ia a,l 
 
 -i'^ ... . I.,- a ,il.. i,r a: 
 
 i \ . aiai -:rii| 'a i'\ i l' la una , 
 
 !aa il u a', a i iial ' . .a;., t,, i 
 
 -i la 1:> . .U.T.. ll'- i., 1-.
 
 206 A JOLTvNAI. OP TRAVELS IN 
 
 adorned with a profusion of fine pictures, but I did not 
 take the liberty of inquiring which were his. I endeav- 
 oured to draw liim into conversation upon the subject of 
 the fine arts, in one department of which, that of histori- 
 cal painting, you know he has gained the first rank. He 
 very obligingly yielded to my wishes, and gave me an in- 
 teresting and instructive historical sketch of the rise and 
 progress of the fiiie arts in England. With this subject 
 he seemed to be perfectly accjuainted. He dates their ori- 
 gin from the time of the third Edward, and he enumerated 
 the pauiters, architects, and sculptors, who had flourished 
 in the different reigns. But, so little progress had these 
 things n\;ickj, even at the close of the reign of George II. 
 when Mr. West came to England, that he declared llie 
 country was at that tin)e almost destitute of the cultiva- 
 tors of the fine arts ; mure destitute in his oj>inion than 
 America now is. But, he added, that England could 
 now boast of more than three hundred distinguished paint- 
 ers and sculptors. Along with this progress in the fine 
 arts, he hatl traced a CTo',ving relinement and humanity in 
 til!! manners of the people. Formerly, every young gen- 
 tleman was obliged to learn boxing, to defciiil himself 
 against the insults oi the mob, which he waj sure to re- 
 ceive in walking the streets ; l)iit nt)w, there is universal 
 decorum and civility in the maniiv'is of the lower ranks. 
 
 He inquired concerning tlie state of society in America, 
 and particularly of the proi'ress of th(.' fine arts. He 
 lly>!udi! that tSicy liad alreaiiy attained a ercat (k^^n'ce of 
 Httenlion, con^idci'iiiL: the aue of the country, and seeined 
 ver\ much gr;;li(ieii wiili the introckiction of the piaster 
 casts of the celebrate;! siutues of antiquity, into ^ew- 
 York. ii<! sai.i lie v.ould not relincini-li the ilea of revis-
 
 VMI AM>. T\f>\\ \Sn AN'[. - ' i! > Ml. ->l, 
 
 iiiiij hi- r.>'>mti\ . I'mm w lii'-!i !:< In. I ii 'W In n .ili- 'u! 
 iiiun' tliaii riirt\ \t.(is. a- a<-v.a- |ii-;i.i.i.l t>) \>r nmv 
 iiiucli L'lMlilii M ill \\i!nr--iii>j It- liiipi"\ MMi i.i. Il'--jii'kr 
 \i:\ lii.'hiv n|' \ouni Mr. Nlallionr .>l' \.'ar ti-Aii. and 
 j)!.ii!'.aiw a (I liiiii to !". ill hi> i>!)iiii.a:i, a ln-'-ial' luiii'a- 
 fii:"' [laiii!'!'. 
 
 Ml. \\.-i. \.>a Kth'U. iia- i.ai- lnM a !ii'_li laiik la i;a 
 
 asMiir aa.i |.aiin m . ni iln' kiiij'. \- tin- jmIi una'.'.' !;. - 
 :anin;', ir tli.' \iMi'iraii war. it ua- iMMial to t\|.<', 
 :!! r tlia.t it w ai,l,| lia\ c 1mm a w itiniia'.v a v\ la n t'lat i a , -i- 
 "ain>' cii. .a . tlm at It- i-t. all -\ nijiailiy w i;li lii- roinitix - 
 ni- II iiai-I lia\- h.a :i -th liMM-lv laaaa ,!.;! (.a liu' pait.'l 
 
 .\!'. \\'r-t. Dul. liiacil t'. til' (a-riiil ut' tiii> La 1 1 i ! ii I : a 
 -iii.i nf ||i> Tdsal |i itroii. ii'i -a<li (ii-'.aac' I il c aapliaia-r- 
 ui ar ritlii r (Diirriliai cr I' .aiiii-.l. I iiasc l-a-aii! an ai:i '- 
 .i .!i- (a: l!ii- -.A*]' > I. \\ la-ii .wj'u i" la' iM'",'" . I 1 I, a" t: 
 
 il' .il'iiir nl I. Mill |) II ! -. 
 
 I ),a il!'. tl,'' \ a; , i ' i!i \> a . ^'l . \\ > -i \\ a - t i:.i>i> ;' li a* 
 \\ :,, ;-: ; C-.-iaa ;a i ,ia-i'; : 'li-'-ia .'! pi' ' 1-r la^ 
 ^;, i- i\ , >wlai . !!iai al'. ail. i i a. ;Ma '; ; i !.-'! ' r llir yy.-^ 
 a' -> "i tla' u .M'!,. 'Iha > ti'j a"i'' Ml ilic a., i; r ;-. ! -'la!'. . 
 : '. 1 1 ia> uiaa -]i' al>- l.iaij in hi- M .' -I\ "- | i -' .a a. a an - 
 :,-'. - \. a t'l ii\ In a! : ~ ' M < a '..i- r. ^ : - a am i- ( 'a- 
 : 1 w ! ' : ^ ; , I a , . I 1 1 1 Km: ^^ ' - in I h ' ' ; a i a t ; n . i . . a i ' . 
 (.at- iinanin/. a- a-i a!, aia! a naa/m i' i t i'a ,.a!''aa- \^ i'' 
 jiii-.-.,t. aiaoicj wlaan w a - a naitaaiiar a-ljlinii:. who 
 ha'i h irj liri 11 I n\ i'lii- of Mia\\is|\ hiai -I an iiiaj w ith 
 II a K 1 1 1 a . a I a 1 w a - i . - i n j i \ i v. a , : i a ( i ^ to \v m a 1 1 , | h ; - f a n a a 
 It iiiipa' la ! ih a a ':::/.' It- i \ti i-niia ii\ li ;.!. lli it naaa- 
 ina. ii'iai -.ail s .wa lii ai I.. i. i '. i a ai .ncani; ^i 
 
 tlia li,,ttl. ..[ ( ':,-|i'i,'. :i. ill .^. - 1 1 i i < ' i a ,! i ., i . 'Ih'- . I 'a no- 
 '>'.. a a' r' '' a'. -amiI,! (;. ;i ..,, ,,! ,,n; .. t .if. l a'aa l
 
 SOS A JOUKNAL OF TRAVELS IX 
 
 Mr. West in preseiue of tlio King. Accordingly, with- 
 out paying any regard to the propri<'ty of tlie occasion, he 
 addressed Mr. ^''est in a loiiti voice, and a short dialogue 
 ensued, in nearly the followinir terms. 
 
 Mr. West, iiave yon heard the news from town this 
 morning r 
 
 Ko, sir, r have not seen tlio papers of to-day. 
 
 '1 lion, sir, let me inform yon, that his iMajesty's trooj)s 
 in South Ca^'olina have g;iinod a splendid victory over the 
 relicls, your ceantrymen. This, 1 suppose, cannot be very 
 pleasant iieu's to you, Mr. W(!st ! 
 
 Mr. West saw the snare that was laid for him, and de- 
 termined that if he must die, he would die like a man. 
 He therefore replied no, s!r, this is not pleasant news to 
 me, for 1 never can rejoice at the misfortune? of my coun- 
 tty men. 
 
 I'he King, who, till this moment, had not appeared to 
 regard the conversation, now trirned, and said to Mv. West 
 sir, that answer does you Iionoiu' ! ;t!id then immediate- 
 ly addressiiig himsidf to the Lord, added ^-ir, let me tell 
 i/oti, tiiat, in my opinion, ;uiy in;\n who is ciipuble of re- 
 joi( ing in the calamities of ins country, can never make a 
 good sui)iect of any aovernment ! 
 
 Such scutiiiicnl- iis thcsi.' are characteristic of a mag- 
 nanimous and superior man, anil nuist certaiidy go lar to- 
 ward- in\aiidaLing unfavourable ]iopular imj)ressions cou- 
 cerning the ])i'e.>(>iit Kini: of l:1nulaiul. 
 
 \N KXri RSIOX. 
 
 Jum:\. Lu;;d(in, you know, is surroimded by villas 
 and country seats, wIick; the opid'Ut citi/ens reside a 
 gicater or less part of ihe year. I hav<' dineil, to-day. at
 
 JNi.I. Wn, MOM AM) AND SCMTI, \M). 
 
 1'1>*I 
 
 iUiC (<\ ',]]<' !)r:iij!i!'iil (il;i:T<, alxiut tlin^r milcN tVnDl fuuil, 
 fill th- Kent i-ii;i,i. It is l!ir siMt ol' Mr. I I.ird'MM h'. ?i 
 W'Sthhv i;u'i<'li.i,it. till' J..1I ;irti!,ir Iricu.l "! li.T (clrhiaKil 
 rniisiirv man Dr. .Ma-m). I \\nnn\ .Mr. IlaiilraMlt- uallun'/ 
 in the u'l ouiids lia^ !^ ni' his Iv.mi-..". iii ((i!ii!>aiiy w iilj a \ niiii ' 
 <-liM-_'\ mail Ifi'in I laa^i. W >" lirid a lar^'i' jiarly at (lip.iu .-. 
 AiiiiMi',' till' l.i(li>'N wiTi' scMTal wli.) wt'ii' \.niiiij ami ji.fl- 
 t\, au'l wliitM' i'( atiiii's liaii inncli -nl'tiii's^ aihl drlicacN i-i 
 r\pn-.^iiiii. ( )iii' cirrlr, hl^il|t > lifinj lii^till'_'Miv||ttl i'oi 
 t'oai . li'.'anrc 111 iiiaiiiais ami (ai!ii\atiiiii rl' inimi uliicli 
 til' lil^l n<'ii|)|i' (..''cMMA |>iili>hi'il riMliiIiA r\liil)it. u as rr- 
 iiiaika!il<' al>ii ,- hiin'.' i-ciiipoNc.l |h im-ijialK nl' i fli'/ioiis 
 )ii' ifili'. 'I ill ir wi'vr si'Ma'al clri'^A !iii II at laiilr. ami 
 aiin'irj liif ri'^t Air. Hi i;i)i:i;, tin' aniliiT ct' lli.' \ i!!ai_'' 
 Si'i imm-. an iaii'lli'^nit ami plfasiiiLr man. I'ut t'a \.miii'; 
 fl' I 'jv mail lii'iii liil.iml amai\('l lis \i:-\' ni^a !i l'\ liis 
 
 l\;i'iur |iii]iiarit\. I nlL'i lllML'' ulial \\a- lia- ti> I'idi 1' 
 
 im-!i, !" Nil aiiLiT^. .and to iadics. li.' t::!'.id aliiiM-t imts- 
 :>aii!'\. ami llial I'/M i\ iilisiamiiii'j l!ii- ! M - l^ilM!\ ('.lU'i^- 
 
 srd !i. -'Mil.- ,,:' llic laWir-. I' v| jii> r\i li'.iM, | , , !;t( Itaill 
 
 till- ri'Mijia i\ Nlvadd iii'it: , Ills la ailii. v. ;ii< ii, it -.-;,'-. is 
 l>ad : iiai iiim- wdiiM n.-i d >. lor. \\:lli !ii'' nlam-i si'i- 
 [,M-M ^. I, III ai;.; a - in ami , !i.' '-mih i :rii'' I in poar i\<i\\ ii * t!i<' 
 
 WiaU^ ^ilMVMl"" tlllr\'l\ oil:' \S IS '|,M| li' V lii i. 
 
 Ml. II. is a man o,' \ia'. niii i ]>!iM~ir dim :a i', la i 
 S'l aid anil (i!!:-. ,it,-,i niimi. .im! ,i, ji.Tiaal , a \' : a: < 'in i - 
 liaii. ill i-> i!iNUa'_",i>li''d in ! !, land, .an i i; > n:;!^mA\ii 
 ;n ii!a'' roaniia -. ,.- an ari]\i' lia :,d <: ii !' 'a;, iii niiji- 
 ["\\ "1 \.liiiai ill- (ai;,tii!u.: - 11. a :'.\\ \\'- . tina' ,ind i'\i ': 
 tna>. iiai m v\ | ai iall\ li 'ai in- nn-Maii' ; aa thr idi-'i .:,> 
 ["|||il'' <|| i,ii'_:!i;i nid,'- 'jn ana- 1 \' I ^'a^N l!i.inlli.-i i' 
 'i.\ nrn.T ('nnii_\ wi sajii-at .li ;iir caii.-r \siiirli ila-v i*-
 
 HO A JOUKNAL OP TRAVELS IN 
 
 poiisc, Vou liavo heard, ])(:rliap.s, ilnu durintr the laie 
 siiort peace w ith Franco, a committee of English gentle- 
 men went over to Paris, for the i)ur[)o.se of taking steps to 
 sup{)ly the French with tlie Bible in their own language. 
 Of this cnsnmittee JMr. Ilardcastle was one, and he assur- 
 ed me that the fiict whicli was published, was literally true, 
 that they searched Paris lor several days, before a sinch- 
 J>ible could be found. 
 
 The seat of this gentleman was built by a Dutchman, 
 who nianilested the strong eflect of national habit on pri- 
 vate taste, by siirrounchng the house with a very broad 
 and deep dltcii fdled with water, like the canals of Hol- 
 land, and furnished \\'n\\ a chaw-bridge like a fortification. 
 I know Hot v-hether he really intended to fortify the house, 
 like an ancU'ut castie. or to make the scene somewhat re- 
 semble ilollaml, for the cviumry was such as to render a 
 ditch pertVcllv unnecessary. 
 
 'J'his pkice is a doHghtfiil retreat, in tlie midst of green 
 rit'liH, '.'ros es, and tloweriiig shrubs, and every thing bears 
 the n^.ai-h'^ (.f opulence and ease. But, areat opulence is 
 so coiiuiioa here, an.d all the works of utility, beauty and 
 inainiii'icee.ce, \\iiicli rrsult fr^iu it. that one wc)uld be 
 Vi:ad\ lo cnnclude. u> did IJass' las, when he entered Cairo, 
 dint CMTV bduv is happy; did not the numerous wretches 
 iiiihe street'^. Iroin u lh)--f pre>^;ii<jf solicitations for relief, 
 I'lifiiiccd bv ra'/s, sickness, blindness, maiiued limbs, and 
 (lie e:ua>iatiou of htinger, it is scarcely pe.ssible to escape, 
 ' :;ivii:c' him tiiJit even Ijiidand has ils full share of hu- 
 man misiiv. iii'd that it no where exhibits more distressing 
 f^pcctarles lh;ui in l.endou.
 
 V'.i. \M). i;i'i.; \\i) .\.> 
 
 \,. \\. LONDON. 
 
 i i 'i 1 -; I!;;.' |i'' - Hi- ri'j' . i.;i' ui >i 11' ,111 !.! 1 1:- M'-' '.1,11! 
 
 li 111 ;''iiii;;> ^- \ii ill W'l' i.iii i'[ ;,!- Hi- ;::;.:;, I,' - i.u ;m 
 ,!! I 'I ' ;. l,>'l,l'i \ - \ .!i !:ii' ! -' Ki r, \ . ,j: i I, r. ii^ii [j 
 
 IN* ii)i:\ 1 - 
 
 ./.',/ .'. ViM.'iij ;n\ i'ltr.i'Iic:, ii\- Icjtn-^ :i<i lc. ,> ] ],_, 
 
 !'.:-. 1 r If: ;,-i ,rv> t.l n U f C . ' ^ - , : , I r , i l ' . . [ ; 1 1 l ^ ; | : ' I 1 1 . Nil'. 
 I! M Ii'W . Ill ill'' ii',. :in llini- ll>- ll.i'i 1 <Mir n\ ir Im I .Mii,|.,||. 
 
 ;i:| I mi' NiHTt, ,i|\- iiMl iiiMi ,1 u\\ ii.;\~ ^iii'-i' ,it Mr. 
 \\ 1 vi'v. 1 i; i\i ( \|u I iriircd ii,.iii liiui m : I, ri\i]:i\ ami 
 \ 'IN' iimIuI mil III ii ,11-. 
 
 I ||' ll.l^ ''ill' l li W i:!l /,l','l itiiu l!;i' [i:'', :"--! i!Mi 't'l-.N^ 
 
 , iii'';i Ii,t\ - !ii" :_iil :iii' i" I ,iir"in'. .r.i.l !i ;^ 1, ii';!N!ii , i iiu' 
 s ilii -' \<\ a] \i !! r- til III-' ,'^'' (inni : ^^\ I'.'i i^. ;i:: I dii' ; -. 
 
 I lii~ I A 1 ii'ji _ . I ui r, I lu iii\ i;:il h ill I'l I i!si' ! I .it 111-; 
 .!; iri |||| iil^. will ii' I III' I ^ll'. I liliiMi. :rpi !. i,! ^^ iii'p ;': 
 Mr. I'lilinn I !ri 1 ''^ \ . - n ;ii Mi. W l"-. TiiN : ii- 
 lliiiiaii i- .11 I'll - ;; ;!,' -::'.>;! rt "I < iri-ii i.-i:iM'' r'.iM v-d- 
 l;iiii ill I .11 '..' : : . ; 11 I iiil "I iii> pri'i'i'l-- .' - i')-iii iri - 
 ' V |il,.-iii.. !i V ','. i.i: ii 111.'., - I" |i'il it ill ''i'' p.'-a' ; ul' ,!! 
 'ii. II- I I li' ! !i-i ''< III-' 1\ ' . i!i:-i ;i '\ '! .i!t !, . : -<', 
 r , , . , ',.. a;,;,i,,iil,, .1 [^{^v. u > :. 
 
 r .! , It i- ' 'i\ i,.:;- l'. 1^ I'l 
 
 Ml. i I i!' .' - , - .li I '! 1 - ill ill' -:l'',' I ! Ill ^. 'lilt 
 
 ,. .,,.!..;, I : ,! . : S' mm ' 1 ii:;.-iil'
 
 2V2 A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS IIV 
 
 With the character of Earl Stanhope, as a distinguished 
 opposition member of the house of Lords you tU e well ac- 
 
 it is unnecessary to dwell upon it. Mr. Fulton was supposed in 
 England to have been the contriver ot ilie infernal machines, sent 
 in tiie summer of 18'i4 to destroy the French flotilla. This I have 
 heard strenuously denied by a nnember of l^arlianient, and he de- 
 nied also that Mr. Fulton ever received any patronage from gov 
 ernmcnt. 
 
 With respect to the desti'uction of the freiic!) flotilla, tliere caa 
 now be no impropriety in nienlionitig the following fact, which 
 was communicated to me conlidentially in the summer of 1S05, 
 An eminent chemist staled, that he was sent for by the minis- 
 try, and consulted as to the most efficient nicans of liiirning the 
 French flotilla. The result \\a=, that he contrived a kind of cannis- 
 ter, containing, in diflcreiit compartrnen's, phosphorus and the 
 U[)ero\igenizf;d muriat of |)otasii1 ; these treme:idous ingredients, 
 which every chemist knows, camiot. even in a cr.refaily cor}ducted 
 experiment, be exploded together, in a quantify of more Ih.an a 
 few grains, without the niost imminent hazard, vrere here packed 
 bi/ ounces and poiohls. At the instant of their being thrown on 
 board, they v.-ere, by a [)articu!ar contrivance, to be mingled and 
 ignited; the cflect, in such large (juantities, must necessarily be, 
 an explosion of the most n\\i\\\ energy, and tlie dispersion in eve- 
 i-y direction, of a ^\vc of such unrelenting fury, that nothing but 
 the instantaneous sinking of the vessel could cause its extinction. 
 
 Perhaps it is not to be rpgi-etled tliat, owing to extranetuis cir- 
 *;umstances, ((,urret:1s, wind'', i;c.) none of these infernal cannis- 
 ters ever got on boaid {h;^ French fleet, but tlio'^e that were 
 thrown, exploded short of their object. If is certain that the 
 means of human destructioi:, a= actually used in modern war; arc 
 <o dreadfuliy eti'ectual, that there is no need of increasing their 
 nundier or energy. 
 
 The interest temporarily f'dt in the torpedoes, has ah-eady gone 
 by, Out the steam boat navigation of the United States, which 
 g-eat as it is, is only just connnencing, will cause .Mr. FultoaV 
 (li'.me to bo held in long and deserved remembrance. 
 
 Now called chloiafe of potash
 
 I N.I.AM), Jini.i. \M> \M -i.>ll.\.\a. ^ i ;' 
 
 4jil.lili;r,i ; in 1- ;i1m) (ii-.tiii',:ui^ll'ii ill this CTMilrV :.- U 
 
 ;ji' ,il p,i;:Mii ni ihiliiical ,iii<l iiiri l.a'ur.il j'i..,i<-iv. He j^ 
 |i.i'!ii'<it.u !\ |i.iil:.ll 1. 1 A ilU'l i( .lu^ lifi' iii-r lii- A ;il-f |.!-r- 
 iiiiHtl ti' Iif. Ill coiii^.', ,1 jiiihli (ins : airl im ii ni v( n ::r- 
 .w I I '1 iii\ ' Hi :\ r 'j'tiiiis IIP I I \\ i(li lii> |i II iiriil u' atl? lil.'Ui. 
 t)i r,i;st In- is ic:i|i\ a ili-iiii'_ui-lii(| iiii'i-liaiiiciaii. aiil :j' ii- 
 ti ui\ I jialrmi I'l i.-ipKivciiit Ills w li '.sc nlijrcl i> [>iai-i'.ia! 
 
 t). .a .il I.. Ill !i!;^!li.!. 
 
 !li- I' I'lisiiiji ^ a;ji. aiaiicc \\as prii'ii:!\ |il am. aii'i 
 "M III .] iia\< li'ii aiu Hill' i>i sii-|i'<i liial !, w ; - a 
 laU'l'Miiaii : ills [ jMaliin'iiI was \rrv aHalili'. aii'l ! a, iM ! 
 ill! 1 !ii'i;a ! as>M:. i;; ;.i cdiiN ! saimn. Iiiiiiis ii. \ . a 
 liM'iiii.' [. a; I. aai! it liaaa li [n iiK ij.allN na l( i|.ir i a ) > ' ' -l 
 \. .ill I la liii^ti V aii'l iiiicliauH s. \\ ilh llirsc , ,.ii . ris la" 
 .iiiji'MU'.l |m Im' t\i. iisivi-lv a(a|iiaiiU<ai. 
 
 i ini'' Wis a ( II 1 111,111 l,iil\ |a I -I lit ix i.a._ >, ^ .as 
 
 'iil\ : si,,- \i ,1, [,, : I, ,| ;ijiii._ iiii.iii till' [liaaii. .h. :,' - -i .'.- 
 -a;,p iai.'iaiiil iia' llial siali win- hn i.iiiaH- ; i iii -a ,ii 
 I aiiji'iMlam. I'.il -iir \Miulii ijI'lii ]ii,i\ nli'iia' lilii-i .lil's. 
 ' Ml ia|i.ii . ami liais iIum- di lij lit iiil t tiusi. ai^ . iT -taiia* 
 -, 1 . i; naaa. , I ,i'il , ! .a . |. ir si i, c .ii|, 1 i a \ . i' i [ ,t ,il ll,. a' 
 i'ia.Mi \ a i.iii. a. 'I H ,i! i . ~i iIk -. lli . Iiul I. una!' s , ,| ; , a - 
 '. aiw 111' lia-i :as' i.: i li ,i inn-aail la-liiiiiii a' --ai'.i.ii i.i ili'' 
 I a, Ml. 1. '\ ii.'i lli' l^l\ - . a \^ lii.'Ii li.' Iiaa 1 iiiiii- I'll '. .1 ur ll.a!- 
 a 1 1 . i i r I M 1 1 1 1 \ . I a 1 ' w 1 1 a a 1 1 1 1 r I - ^ . 1 1 . i \ i a . I > . i 1 1 1 > w : i I a i 1 1 ra - 
 a .is 1 i-I ,i> il w a- 1 j|a\ I .!. I ia- - i aia i.n .\ .a .i a! n; lli' 
 ki \- jii.-aiiai J ll all 1 la . t-. ll ili.^ iii\i lii..'M |s Ml I- 
 iiii[ii a I nil I'l 111-' I. \i a' I ,i- ill M la I '.a- ii: I'a a :' - " ~. II -tl 
 ! .iM !: 1^ ll.i- lia 1 ',t ii; lan-)! aa . 
 
 I 1 1 - ! ii ' i -ll : j 1 I - I a llir 1 'j I jT >: a ai. ami js \ i i \ w i ' 
 !.!,i.\\ a 111 ll.i\ 1 -li.ia ll (i-a.: 1 '-. I.i.., ... 1, ., I 1,. [,.',! ur 
 ' :' la; aiaia ; m .: tm pa . 'W ]. \ a ,-
 
 2 14: A JOT'RNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 ble, and he ^poke warmly against tlie right of piimogenr- 
 ture and the vast difference between the condition of the 
 iich and of the poor in England. I must confess I find it 
 no easy task to reconcile myself to the profusion, frivolity 
 and splendour of too niaviy of the English gentry, contrast- 
 ed with the inevitable poverty and wretchedness of great 
 numbers of the lower classes ; but I should never have ex- 
 pected to hear, from the mouth of an English nobleman, 
 a declaration that primogeniture is unreasonable. It is 
 not easy to see how his lordship reconciles his republican 
 notions, with iiis aristocratical practice. lie said that all 
 would have been well in England, if the French revolution 
 had not taken the unhnppy turn it did, but now, they were 
 going on with one unnecessary war after another, and the 
 country was groaning under six hundred millions of debtj 
 'I sum which all the land of Great-Britain and Ireland, if 
 sold, would not j)roduce. 
 
 Jitne 3. At a dinner in the city, to-day, T met !;u em- 
 barrassment which is too often experienced in Enn'and. 
 The party was large, and, as usual, began to converge on 
 their own pers(inal toj/ics, and I to look forward to tlie eu- 
 tertalinncnt of my own reflections. 
 
 But, I soini cjuiie to a re-ohition to attempt a share ih 
 iiie conversation, and accordinirly addressed myself to ;i 
 young Iwiuiishman, who sat n<-\t to me ; but I was not 
 Ibrtimate in t!ic choice of my sni)ject. for the conversation 
 was not sujjported ; l asked hi)n, next, concerning the cer- 
 emonies of tlie king's birth-day, which is to-morrow, bul 
 of this he kiiciv," nothing and then, whether his majesf. 
 was not an cx'.'i.'llt'ut horseman. I now fi)!nid that 1 had 
 touched the riu'lil "-trinfj. for. the yoimg gentleman lielong- 
 -d to a volunt'.'er ci.'i-ps of '.';iva'rv; from tliat moment v."
 
 KN.IVVn, HOII.Wl) \M) < Oii 
 
 oiiI'Ti il into , I \i'r\ ^jui itid (iiiu ( i - iiion ii)iii!i jnii^i^ 
 
 lliirst'm.l!lslli|) till' VullllIt'iT s\^trii l'-,,i,iirlr ;iiul 
 
 till' iii\ >i-iii!i. aihl ill till' \riit, till- (iiv fi ^iitiiiii lirraiiif 
 ;.' ;i' 1 il. <.i\>[ till' r\riiiii_' >i\\,- i,<.' i!ii' m i-t jili-.i^iiiit tiiat I 
 tii\'' -|ii II' III lilts I'lHiiitiv. fill Mniii'j iilViriT (iT (lia- 
 
 :' i> i; ivi' mr lli^ aM'lr'-> aii<l iii\iliM| mc tn attnid one 
 
 (il {''\<- r.'\ u'w s oi' |;|^ riiriw. ami to \ i>it hi in at ( 'lajili iiii. 
 I h'' ti'iirli -I Mii> to IkmImI llii' r.irjli-'li air oltm n'stTN- 
 
 i aii'l ivill iioi iionldi' llii'iiivi K ,'s to roiurr^f unli Mui, 
 i! \"i an- v\''' '.; To iiin nil silrni. 'I"li.- rfaMiiiahli' iiio- 
 ii'-i\ aial'i. ' 1,1 iiT ,1 slraiiL'i 1. tlii'v a|i|i'ar to ini>tak'' 
 |oi siii|ii,|lt\- ,ii 1 jaoi ,iii('i'. aibl aliiiiMinli )1,,.\ ijo not want 
 li; I'l iiiii, ;it to ili^ci.wr, or ^jiiiit to ii'tai'<< iiii[Mi(liiic'* 
 ail'! \ aiiii\ . i'ii\ \^ ill not iliiiiiv inurli ol \ mi. it' \- oil lia\o 
 not a 'joo'l -liaif oi' >-ll-j)o-vlv^il.n ami coat'iiliiii c in yoiir- 
 ' U. 
 
 II< 111: ,;ii"_' laniii'. alu.iit trii o"i lock al ni'_'Iit, I oli^. rvi'tl 
 
 ' 'iif wl tih ivi' JitiK- <ii ' !'< w ill. Il .irr \ I'l'v conimoii 111 tin' 
 
 'i 'I- '.I I ..p:!,i,,ii : I all !.! I'. la .uhiii'inc^ u liii h 'atin r 
 
 aioiiii'l tin- liilla'l sii'.'i'i'^. TiK's'' a.i'' ii--iMl!\ po'ir w'o- 
 
 1 !i. Ill" liiil.' jiiN. \\;(|| r\ 'i\- a[i]PMra:i'i' I'l ixtnnii' 
 
 \ ! u . w ! .1 ,,ll.. I I ;.-A |M ail' !i\ -in.inL' ''all aU at the 
 
 nii'is III till- vir. I 1-. ii:i.,'i r ill'- how-u in .oa - ol viio|i<. 
 
 \ I'li' |iMiiir.M'> oT piilihr I. ii!o;:r^-. \lllioii-jh tiii-ir 
 
 >.(,;ii > I'll' ii-ii:i!l\ h ir-'i. Ipiin h. iii'_' -o mii n i Mil'il, ami 
 
 I'p !i ; ii-i l.a ninirr^ la r\ iTv ri--| m n iin linrri ul . tin \ iiiinii- 
 
 . It 1 w a I mil- .11. Mill. i ami .!i laia ih-i'i a i'aij liini'. 
 
 .^. ,!! :i.|. inaii I'lr! im1\. -o,m- Imai |in>. "1 -mm- to 
 
 1 111 ',^ |iM. ki !s : il]. i,i;i. |- I ; .->. ImiiIK i-\ m l.ol to liihi -.nii- 
 
 . , t> III ,; 1 , . I , ,,\ .1. I.I' . I III mi I'll lli.'-i w h.i j.!i..'.\ I , loij 
 
 \ri- tii.i 111. ai-i 1^|^ 111 tiii.ii!_ -. uith mmh iiriiinni.
 
 2l6 A JOT-RNAL OF TR AVFLS I\ 
 
 about them, there are always novices enoiia:ii whom curi- 
 osity attiiicis, and isnorance of the arts of pick-pockets 
 readers insensible totlieir dancer. 
 
 No. XYI LONDON. 
 
 riie king's hirlli da) Piilacft of S(. James Court dress Enibai' 
 rHs?meiit from hoop petlicoKts Contest of coachmen Pro- 
 cession of mail coaches Splendid equipages Pressure of tbt 
 crowd. 
 
 Tilt: KINGS BIRTH DAY. 
 
 June !. Tiiis is his majesty's birtli day, and after din- 
 ger I folhjwed the current to St. James' palace to see the 
 parade on the occasion. Tlie jialace makes but an in- 
 diiferent ajjpearaiice : it is a plain l)rick buildina; of an ir- 
 reiifular form in some parts, and ^vhere it is reffular, It has 
 oiilv oi!<' story ; this part extends a considerable distance 
 and ;.iiv('s it tiic appL'arance of a nKvnuJ'actory, or rajige ol 
 low warc-liouses. 7'he [)alace was erected by Henry 
 \ SIL and is now used only for stat'" puiptiscs, as the r()^a! 
 family .icvcr reside in it. Dni-ing their winter residence 
 ticd.r town, (for they riever five aciuaily in J^cndon.) they 
 reide in l-urkiui^liani Jiousc, mIucIi is known by tlie nam*' 
 o! ihe ' : ecn"s ])ajace. 
 
 On this occasion, St. .fames" stre(!t and all die streets 
 ieiiiliu':' to St. .lames' palace, were crowded nitli si)Ien<lid 
 ci-uipaijcs, cavah-y. sed<i!) ch.iirs, soliiiers. and tiiousands 
 o.''e-..",!!uon iiau1:d-.. i ';ad not 'mk' n ;niv .'^(eps to e>bt;ilri
 
 iNf-Lwo, MAri wn AM) ?foTi \Nn. -'17 
 
 Hilinissiitii into lli'- iialac.', ami ilic;. I<.rr ^ iw iioihin,! iixirr 
 lliaa uliat cmtn 1>o(I\ in ilir >in(i> mi'hf -n-. 
 
 A-< the iiiihlliiv caiiic mit ui lh<- |ialac.- to -it iiitu lliui 
 cr'aclics. I haii an ii|i|Mirlimiiy of ;rtiii'_' ilifin in ;l:i n coin' 
 '!ii'>'-. < )n roniiuou oii-;!v|on^ ll:i' nohiliiy arc iioi lii-tai- 
 i:ui<lii'il |i\ ill. ir iln'-N Hoii) otluT nit'ii. liui. oii the K!li'_'^^ 
 birth iiav.,in(l ollin LM>'.a <la\> ol vtalf. tlifir a|);'i aianci' 
 IS \(r\ sjili-nilitl. l;aL' \\ !.:>. Inll->1< r\i'<l and llow in/ I'o.ii-. 
 unl lon^ uai-ico:ii> sn|irr!'K rnilii oiiicrt il. Lir'_'f ^!ll' - 
 bncki' >. s>'t \s itii L'l'iuv or inillatioiix o!' lliiin. an. I ^wiaiK 
 iiv tlnir siiio. wi'ir ilif |iriaci|ial [n rnhai ili<'s uhicli 1 oI- 
 
 Tii.' jaiiii N uoii' lioop jiriiicoai<: liic hoop u, is i;.Ma 
 ciii |i.\ l>ut a lai'/e o\ al. 'I he [irtlifoal \\ .is no! s'llh I'l 1 
 to ll.iw in natural I'oliU, l>nt \va-< divtcndiil hy rUiplical 
 lini's. likf a sc,.o[]-n''I. aiid uli"' !''d all o\ir\\r,ii ^.'.m-; 
 an'l sp.in'jh'--. Ilin llnn' \s as ,i s, ri,,ns dillicnltv alt' iidm:^ 
 till' [losiiioii (il the lioo|(. Tlir lou'^r.t (liaiin t' I \\ as at 
 vij'it an^U-.s. wiio tin" lad\"s patii. and sin' must tin n liat' 
 iiri fss,iril\ rr(|tini- no surill s[ia<'i> to ualk in: !i:i, this 
 ^jiai-r u.is not to |)t' liad, lor. the L'a|iin'_r croud, hi'ini; 
 \M'd jfd ;ts ( |, 1^0 as thf\' ( (iiild -land, ami |ii''ssin" ioi w aid 
 to L'l/.'' o I ill- i.HT ol'iioiidiiv. would iiju II onlv a iiariow 
 laiK- lor iho <o n li' is. in this di|. inni i. iii^t nnil\ -t>;od 
 reads at lln c.ill i,f ir'ci s^it \ . mid 1 ii- iaiiii's. as tin \ [MssciI 
 linonjii dio fi o\\.d. conn i\ I'd t'M\\ i-l tin' w liolo loaclnnrry 
 1 iMld. SI, ,^^ to hiiii'j till' sl;o! ( -t oiniH ti'l ari, ,ss dii' |i;ilil. 
 r>ni. \:il'i ;dl this aid ||o;m nijinnilv, it was no snrul 
 m lin'\'nh at lo (' jiosii ,,,, ,,i' tin- 1 idiis s,ili 1\ in hi r 
 i>ai h ; a soidi'i. Willi li\id tiasipiiit. and lun ta' thi'O 
 oMtiin n wi-nt 1/1 |oi ( to . il .0' till \\ as . and two oi thn f 
 '' 'otiiii'ii li.llo\M i to ( l.'-i' ;i : ill Mini'' In.slaiKf.s Imth luids 
 a . r. I')
 
 ;cl? A JOrUNAl. OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 and lad/ei, were borne to their carr'uiges, or even quile 
 away, in sedan chairs. 
 
 It was amnsing to hear the speeclies of the mob, on the 
 occasion; they seemed to consider it as a spectacle, ex- 
 hibited for their diversion, and they ir>ade very free with 
 the gentry as they passed. An officer ajiparenlly of rank 
 in the army, wlien closing the door of his sedan chair, had 
 the misfortune tosliut itiipontSie top of his gallant featlier, 
 wliicli drew the li;it oi'i from his head as he sat dow n ; the 
 women in the crowd raised a broad laugh, looking in at 
 the win'iows, and giimiing in his face, but, he had the 
 gooii sense and good nature to laugh with them, while he 
 adju^ti'd his hat, and moved on in much good huiDour. 
 
 There was a great procession of coaches, extending a 
 mile or two, and there v.as much emulation among the 
 coachmen who should be first. I saw a contest of this 
 kind, which last(>d a great part of the way down St. 
 James' street. Tvo coaches were contending for the 
 precedency, but they were abreast, and so conijdetely 
 wedged on all sides i)y the throng, that neither could gain 
 the ad.vantage, alihough every time the Hood moved on a 
 little, the coacnuian whipped and pushed the hordes, 
 which were spuitr'd and ready to fly away with the car- 
 ria;fes. At i(M!t;th the tliiug became so dangerous to the 
 safety of those around, that the dragoons rode up, anti 
 with their broad swords, arranged the point of honour 
 The fellow who was ordered int' the rear. sui)jnitted with 
 H sullen air, while his competitor triuinjtheJ, and the mob 
 raised a loud laugh. 
 
 fkside the f)i-ivate carriages, there was a showy pro- 
 cession of all the mail coach(!s in the city ; the coachmen, 
 j^juards. and servants were dressed in scarlet ; the trapjiiugt;
 
 IS' ! \ \i), inLI. \M> \N!> 
 
 \M 1 1^ < liif > l!ll' CillllMr, illl'l .111 W I. I m; ! ; \ Ulll.- 
 
 i,l'-.| .III I (iiTiiral i!. l'lll> irK'lilii!! \ ;il\s ,i\ > Mki - ciir. 
 iin;iii' kii)."v liii ill li.i'. . |p'r,iii>'' ti:.' p '>!-". !u-'' il';i:iii- 
 iiiMi!. w'i'ui .ill ii^ -'TV Mil-, i> ( iiii-:.i'Ti"; ;'^ 'ii ap; M' ' ! _'' 
 
 m| ti;r CidW 11. 
 
 'I'lic <M:i>-i:r> 1,1 siiiiii' 111 til.' ii.)!r!l:t\ \; . n < .: ; ,;. i . 
 |ili'U iiil : Miiiii' I'l I Im'iu \\ '!( i\<'\. ' \ :.:.! U\ I'.i i !:;',> i-- 1 ! 
 I'll- IK r. 1^1, III. mill \\i-\,' (DSiMi'.i \' i';i >|iai,_!i-> ai; 1 : "I. . ia 
 ill.' :\[\' 1 i,i _ >! \ |i- III ;. i\ -'!i.i|i III,' : va I ai- !i\ > r\ ; i ii. 
 I'l'ir.iiai \\ 1^ I'-ip '_ ri'l\ aii'i ! i!'''t : -(Mi I i t ai I '.( li-" j i r'. 
 'rii.'\ u 'a.' !.i'-" i|.,i oiiK i.a I'l'- 'I'liiiiM-. 'lit nil ,.!'; liir 
 s'm:ii> 111 t!i> if , iiaiii ii'^. aii'l tii'i.' lai'/i- i-nii ;i ii i'.^ \^i|i" 
 - I! ;iMiiii|i''l \v iiii III. a i Ii i:i-_'.v ul^iis r cr .I'l. < 'a -'i-''" 
 (i>r.|-ii'a> 1 ~ 1 ai'^i-. It i> a pnai' ul' vi . it .i:..'' ' ;. mi to ii'-pl.' _\ 
 till' liiifst 1 'lui'ia . aa.l !:; r a.liai . a,- laiiaiN i.l lii' 
 rii iijir'iiiirs ;ii'' i:-'i.i';. a i";~ri.i !,-. ,. i.. 'l-iai. \\;. -ai : 
 1 1! a r i-.iiii'.'. ! 1 I tin 111- 1 1 '"-_ a/''" 1 . < >... n ai j n,-' 
 cI 1 11) i!a; ,> '11 i- 111 r\ri'| ,: '! 1 ;', ai^ ill 1 1 )i ' 11 a 11 ' I ). r i I li i 'I 
 iiii-a. "^' ' a "I I a-- n irl,-- h i.i T A , i. t !, i . i . ,, .,. | i \ i a I'lai 
 l'"i!!ll' 11 -"..II 111, J a'l. Hl'l l.'iiai'i ii;i ',' a.ail Ila' I ar; l'.;r. 
 
 Ii'il I ;.!ii'a 1 1 a- ixi, ,;i,iii i ,( mii.. riiiiiu' i.;l\ lal'- na lai 
 
 ( la !i;ii 1 ]' !i'i\. 1 In .1 I'li'iaiiai an' In ija- iri'. ' . 
 Ii 11 I- 1 i: \" ' la 11,1 II ; |i' i-"iial !i. .iiilv sirm, Iwi i'l ,i :' 
 iliri'MlMll i|aali:i ala'M Im lii'ir "..la.a-. l.'Hiaill iiiii- 
 t II a- .1 i 1 1. Ill' 'iii i~ iiaailn r . : tin v, : | |,,n , In ii 'i it ,i>- 
 
 ^' . I< 'I ti.i! la. . a IW. ;,I\ til. HI- II: 1, 
 
 I 'ii'l im! - ;!i" i.i\ il .>; ail ! .'. li .-, IS ,., i',,. ,,t!:. 
 
 "'I' " ''' I' !' "' .111! II 'A a- i;iiai'-M'.!' I 1 In it t!ii. ui ai 
 
 t'l' 1 I 'W I. la N 1 'i ,1- ii \\ 1- I ha: 111; M i; iMiai', i'l .-- 
 ''':" iiaai \ . Ii.r -a ii v..;- I'ai' I lua.li. ,,i.i\ ll,i 
 
 ^l a 1] ,!ll 
 
 I' 
 
 t: 'ai ' imi 
 
 -lil\ ia , i', .; tl 
 
 I'll- w ,!-, 11,1 ,11,,; 
 
 r I'! 
 
 !l.-\ I 1 W ,1- 
 
 il'l'' "I ill.' ilii ,ii;u;l i'i.
 
 :;'2U A JO?.'nNAl. OP TRAVELS I\ 
 
 sure of a city crowd ; the streets terminating at tlie palace 
 all poured t'n'ir thousands to one centre, and it was my 
 ortune to find a place just at this point. Perceivinef that 
 die pressure was fast Ijecoming g^reater than was either 
 pleasant or safe, 1 endeavoured to withdraw, but in vain j 
 I was precisely in the situation in which the mechanical 
 philosophers inform us that a !)ody will remain at rest, 
 that is, I was equally pressed on all sides, and remained 
 iast enclosed in this nrr-.it mass of liuman bodies, till the 
 stationary tide of flood i):^gan to ebb, when 1 was borne 
 ^.tlong with the ceueia! current, ami escaped. 
 
 We were exposed to some danger from tlie horsegfuards, 
 ttliich weie stationed in St. James' street, to keep the pas- 
 ^agc open for the coaclies ; for. v/hilc we were urged for- 
 ward, !)y the arci.'fiulatinn- crowil ii; our reai'. we were re- 
 jrc^scd !);/ the cr-Aalry in trout, who, when we had pushed 
 on loo far, rode in ;-i'.noi)-i us, \\i!h I'rawn swords, and it 
 'vas our c< is'iein. to <^ve ihat uir iih'bian leet were not 
 n-u^^iivd. 
 
 'j-'his evcuiit'.: t'lo wu.dows c^fhis mrijesty'.s tradesmen 
 jv-'^ b'-i'Uantiy ilhiiriinati'd with lamp" of various hues, so 
 -^T-'urrrii a= to r':'nre-.' n; crowns atif! other app-ropriato 
 fiiiure-. ill'' iv;'(i':'Sii:t n who iiavc (!if honom' of his ma-' 
 jestv's }"K.it!oira-ie. or v. ho at least f,frisl of it on their si'j'n- 
 hoanis. are so numerou-. thai ti - >tr..A'K look vriy 's.iy nu 
 
 'he nrr:)'i'<Xf.
 
 fN'.l.WI), ItoLI. \NI) WD ?(OII. \\r). 
 
 \o. WII L(M)()\ 
 
 Pvi-vii-w <>l v.iliiii!i''T 'I'lir park r.xh'il'iliiMl ni \'. ]:'.]')_< f 
 
 S.imiT-.'t HiMiM' llow i'>liin:(it>i| liy ill. If \\||.i liaw -I'rii Ih' 
 l.oiivp' I'iii- l.:in<M^tM'l.i;i ^rluM il--0.!,!ily nt j.imi !, mcnl iL. . 
 Cuokc III Ju. ii.uM III I'. Hill. Hill- lid-pii.il l)r T 
 
 Trnii.l--l' ri".M I'r ^h.iu ^-Mr-, Kii-ulr--]lc;- t,,l.. I - , .rl 
 at'.uiiiiii-Mi- 
 
 \ i;r.\ii w 
 
 ,/////" ^i. i ^ii'Mil si'Vt Till Iniiii-; tills iiMniiirj in ;i!'<ii,t- 
 iii'.: a ri'si.'w nt' \ .iliiiilfri-s in II\il<' I'aik. I'.y -mni'. t'lil^ 
 -\st.'iii dl' \ (I'linli'tT (ii'lmci' i> {(: n-l'''! a- a n 'li'Mi.i! pal- 
 hi'liiiii. aii'l !>v ntluT-^ a^ a 111' ri' [la _:i:'iit. r;;!i- :!.,!. | \o 
 aiiiu>i' tlir ciHiati'v into a liUr si'ciirity. l*r'>'ii'iK t!r 
 triii!i !;- 'i -I A > 1 til'' 11. Inl im mii' c vi i j'lr^ti.Mi t'n! it 
 ni'i-t 111- a 1 I'M'.-II. 'W tliiiij |m |)in\,,l.' N.i iiia!i\ nun \vii!i 
 a: 11-- 111 1' 1 I ' n'li l!ii' :i i ni'ir i!--!'. 
 
 Till' ri'Si.w tii-ilt\ allni'!!'! Iiltl'' w iiii'li is 111 t i:^'' !l!\ 
 ^fi'W Mil >ni !i iirc.t-iMns. I la' wriilirr wa^ '.lini, ,i..\<\ 
 t'lir r'":i iii'ii!> w a 1 . iii\ . i] \ ( I m i Ion. !- nl ihist. '|'|:i nrr- 
 VfiU' i| iii\ oliiain::!/ a>".'il 1 1! I Iii' l\ iir/. w Im was jais- 
 r:M. 1 1^1 I ll !! a jlini|<sr dl III.' I'l iina' oT W'ali -. \\ i;.. 'A a> 
 .>!1 ;i..'--i^!i n is. s.iriMaiiiinl li\ aU'-ia i an! -. II'- ->". .ic a lil.a- 
 iiir '' T'a, ,ri I ';.- |i. :-siin i^ ii. i-a- I ii :: ,iii. i r. m| inl--'. it. 
 
 II \ ! IVi' 'v is a tim- pl,a a- I, h 1(-\ ii'\\ s. It r.ia'aiiis li,-. 
 tu ' I! lin-i-.- an.i l..'n- lani.n . ,1 a^i i s ,,; ^ ; .inia I. an' I it tnr- 
 nniK i"T ijii<-.i a!Hii;i ^.y hnni'ii'.L ln-i.iri. Ki-ii-!:'-_'(on 
 <iai.i'i;s \v ii ' f,i',< M nil' IiM:a it. Tlir |.ai 'ss \( hicli li, at 
 I'll' U'-t ::.| i| I. nil,],, 11 ai-.- drli-'lit Inl la-lrt ats ir. ..ii liir 
 III M-i- .Mi. I c . 'I ill ni 1 1 a.r . .; tin <i\\ . V 11 Ih'ciIm r I ini.i-_.ia' 
 ll'.. \' iniis! or; i-pv- I i._lit linn, in 1 1 oi i .nr iIumis na.] at ri s , [
 
 222 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IiN 
 
 Ground, wliich is diversified with fine rows of trees; sin- 
 e!e trers here and th(Te gravelled walks lakes canal 
 palaces on their confines, and frequently an innumera- 
 ble multitude of carriages and people. 
 
 EXIJFBITION OF PALMINGS. 
 
 Jane J. I have been, in company with Mr. and Mr^. 
 Gnost, tosee the paintings h) Somerset House. Somersei 
 llou/^ is a vast quadrangular building of stone, so arrang- 
 ed as to form a complete hollow square. It was formerly 
 a pa'ace, l)ut is now used by the government for a great 
 variety of public offices, and in it are the rooms of the 
 royal and antiquarian societies, and of the royal academy. 
 
 In tac apartments of the latter there is an annual exhibi- 
 tion of all the productions of the pencil for the preceding 
 year, which have any claims to distinction, and of such 
 otliers as liave never been exhibited before. They are 
 suspetiiK'il principally in one vast room, the walls of 
 whicli are completely covered with them, not to mentioa 
 several siiialler apartments. This year, the separate pie- 
 ces ainoinit toaliout eight hundred, and they are said to be 
 le-s numerous than in former years. The object of this dis- 
 pl;iv aojiears to be to gratify |)ublic curiosity, to excite 
 <.>mulation, b_\ a comparative exhibition of the works of 
 diflerent artists, and to promote the sale of the pieces, by 
 exposing them to pul)lic view. 1 was higldy gratified 
 v,i{h this collection, which I have visited once before, 
 and piobably shall visit aaain. llngland has now a 
 great many painters, and the fine arts generally are 
 jniich cultivated. Our countrymen who have recently 
 vi-iitcd I'aris, and seen the glories of the l.ouvre, affect to 
 Jesoi'-'' 'h*' nainti)igs in Enuhmu, and speak of the exht-
 
 f:M.! \M), HOLLAND \ M -( (VI L \ M. 2j. 
 
 Dilioii ;il S.iiiiiixt House as a tii\ial I'liaj^. 'Ilirv a-srii 
 that ilii our rail liasi' a I'l^t idi a oi' tin jn il"i clioiH nl" llii- 
 ; t willioiit \isiiiii_' I'aiis. ( )l tlli^ iiiatlii- 1 am nut i 
 ;'i !ji'. 1 lia\i' \i iiturni Iiowcmt Id nm I'n- ii>k ul hfiiii; 
 |)|t'a^i'il \\'h\i till' |) liiitiiius tirSMiiiia^'t llniix-, ami, a- 
 Ainti i(:an> i laiin lil>rit\ ol' all miii> a> tln'ir hiitiiiiL'lu, 1 
 luipt-' I ina\ fii|(i\ tlif pi'iv ill u' "I hi iiii_^ pli ax'd, ami ol 
 sa\iir4 so, without hciii^ cuiii|irlli-(i to [I'wi- ica-ous lor it. 
 Ainoni: the pifliirfs that inn n ^n il iiic iiios(. wen- a lull 
 It'll th portrait ol' Mr. i'o\ ; oiu of .Milton, jjliuil. and 
 diclatiiiLr I'ar.i.lisr lost to his dan hnr^. \v ho act as aiiian- 
 iifii-i-s : a iloiiit'>tn- src'iK' a jjiasc aunt l.illtn aslt.cp in 
 her chair ami h-'i' truant nrice lo|iin'_' ; inid the ini|>ris(jn- 
 eii ilehtor, ami inoiiiinL, l>v >ir.losliiia IJeviioMs. 
 
 'iiir. F. \.Nc \-'ir.i;i \n scikm-i 
 
 From Siaiii is.-t II. .use u'e went o\er lllackiri ii'> liriii.'c 
 into >i)ntli\vark. I.i -ee the celehi aled I .aiirastei ian Sch.ioj. 
 It deri\"e> its name Irom il^ l.nm.ierand [indent <'ondiieior. 
 a .Mi. Lane.istei, u ho~e liijhU lieies oli.iit, i;i. ritorioas^ 
 and >ncce^>lal (XmIiohs. ha\e pioeined to|- him fiie ap- 
 |il.Mivi an.i p:.i 1 KiiML'e (i| some o| tlie lii^i imai in liie kiirj- 
 
 d'>m. lie i> ,1 .jil.iker. \\\\n, takill'/ \i\\\ on the deplorah!"' 
 roiidili. .11 ol a 111 .'e class o| childi. n in l.oiid'Mi. ,i:,d is. 
 peeidls in liie h.a.ncjh ol' S .'jlhw.uk. No'mi'aidx imdi r- 
 t'lo'x (lii-ii in~hu<ih.n aad k lorm tli n. as i ir as ii i^ jmss;- 
 hj.' I.jr .Mil man I.i d.i it. The e! i-s ,>| . hildieii ;.a w hose 
 1)111' ill the 1 .aipMslci i.iu Si lion! was iiisiniii, >!. aii' those, 
 wilo, li.iii! . \treaie im iiL:''aee, aie i_'i\eii up to i.ljeiiess, |._- 
 noraiic.-. and \i.'e, can.h.l.itis |or e\ei\ eiinie .ind e\irs 
 pmrisiiiiieiit. I'lie tiiiMt e.vcell.ni'e ol' .Mr. I .aiicasd i"s 
 plau foi'.sisis in its rAtlordiiiL' iiisiructliin at .-o cin i;i .i ;' i''
 
 224 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 that about one thousand chikh-en can receive it for a sum 
 not exceeding one thousand four hundred dollars per an- 
 num, including, as I understand, all their stationary, 
 books, rewards, Sec. I saw assembled, in one great room, 
 nearly seven hundred children, of which number tlic 
 school now consists, and it iias contained one thousand. 
 All these Mr. Lancaster superintends and instructs in 
 person, without any otlier aid than that which he derives 
 from placing the elder boys over the yomiger. For this 
 purpose his s'-hool is divided into companies, like a little 
 army, so that there is a regular grathttion of instruction 
 and command iVoni himself, as commander in chief, down 
 to his little licuteiiants and sergeants, llie minute par- 
 ticulars of his novel and curious establishment, will be 
 best learned from a book which he v\ill soon pubhsh on 
 the subj(^ct. I will mention a few circumstances wliich 
 struck me durini^ our visit. 
 
 The school is held in a very plain l)ut extensive buil- 
 dino, t!ie ch'^a^est that would possibly answer; even the 
 beams and raf!ei> are naki'd below, and upon them are sus- 
 pended a variety of toys iwnl other thinirs, which are occa- 
 sionally (nstril)ut<.'d as rewards, and, being constantly in 
 view, have a tcndt'iicy to promote emnlation. As cheap- 
 ness of education is t'le great object, economy is studied in 
 rvery thing. The younij ()oys are n(t suffered to waste 
 p'ns, ink. and paper, in their first attempts to learn to 
 write. Kvery table is provided v.ith a narrow bed of 
 sand exteiidinir ihrongh its whole leniith ; this is smoothed 
 i)y tlie liand or otherwise, and in this the bo\s make their 
 first rudf attempts ;;t writin<r and ciphering, usin<:tlie end 
 of t'ic fmrrer, or ofson'.e blunt instrument, instead olpetis 
 and pencils.
 
 CNoi.AM), uoi.i. \Ni) ^^^ sfnri wr*. '^.' 
 
 'I'lu'ii' is u cm ii'iis police in tins liti!f n juiblif. 1 in>- 
 !ii'\f wliiii[iiii? i^ nut |)r;irti-(ii at :il!, Inif llw (li^(i|ilinr nl 
 ilf institnlioii c()^si^t^ |iriiii'ip:il!y in iiioiiv<>> lifM .mt to 
 til' i ,inibiti(Jti. :iiid scii^c lu Nli.uiir. Oi' tlie (ir^l, tli'- rr- 
 w I N wliicli I h.ivt' aliTadv lui'iilioiK'il ai < an rxampli-, 
 an I I ^isv .1 svlii'U^ic il. an I 1 sliouM think umI pnifclly 
 |uii'i.vi|N. in-t ini-i' ol ti\>' la;i''r. Tlii' Uu\< r;\ ii<' np in 
 iiir!'' - j iaiir.;i-. In'.iiir 1 by tli''ir rospcctivi' I'-a^l-Tv, to 
 I'irir ui L-i'-i-. t') r\hitiil til.' ^^>ult^ nl tli<'ir in.ln-trs . * >iK' 
 nl tl| \..in.'"-t 1.1 i-^c- rain'' np w hi!'' v. . vvM' coin iT^iiiL' 
 u iiii ' li . I , in<- ;-!'-r. aa I when am \t'>\ ii id no' acq lillfii 
 liiin-'ll \V'-;|. Iii^ i!.\i n'-iL'li!)"M! , np'<n a 'i_Mi.iI li'oin tlio 
 111 !-(!. pull.- ! Ih 11 ^111. i;ll\' l)V till- <ar. TlTKuas parti- 
 'ili-I. Ill' M tii\ in.' in t!i' pi''-'fiic.' Ill' .siiaii'_'i'rs. ami I 
 
 (I i;i'Mii t 'i. 1 r litll.' l\'-i \> i.- i-.il'Mi! ". I . juil.' ;i > iniu'li \\\[\l 
 
 ! ii '1! III. ..I i'"! I -I'Mt'iii-ni ;i<, v.itii 111'^' nil')!!-- -haiiii-. 
 
 ^I:\ I , 111' :~''-v i^ I ii: in ui niil'l inaimii- ami '>! an inii !- 
 
 Mi'i.iiijh li.- iicl.Mijs t" til'' --'"i.i',' "1 
 
 i ii'V!-.. ii' 'i'^'s ii''l aitiiiuil I- 1 iiii!iui- till' inni'i-M| In^ pn- 
 
 iiil> w ifii 1: > . 1 A I pi iii.'ip!''-. 'ii !" \"i':\\ I 111 II III iini' I'N np- 
 
 , till' <.^ii i'-,''- plan : in-l^in;' iii>-ril \- np' ni the c-^iiitutl 
 
 : '1 ; Mcr '' - i ' i '!i'.:i.-ci aii.l ni 'ImU. 
 
 I; i> ~ i''l !'i il til'- Ii - in !ii- vciKM'l I. ;in la^fi r ill in in 
 '!' cniniii.iii \\.\v. Ill I ilii' pi in !> I ap ililc >>[ In iii'/ '\- 
 ! "I'll (I I'l .'till |- C'i';ii;rii'>. iii'i m| I/i'IH' i'\i-( iiti il liv dllici 
 
 I!' In mill/ i Ml" I'M- cit\ . ill.' kill in. .s mI in\ '<\ li icinN 
 "'i-M iiiii-l 111 1.1 ,'i:,.' ,111.1 III,.' I, -I \\i;li tin 111. aihl I iia.! 
 i'|ia!\ '.I I' ikri^-i'.j tipic tiiat moi ii'ii". S.I that I iiiailo 
 It ih'- .!a\ m tin n -m nlv. '\'\i<-\ :[\,- ,,\ ih.il < ia>v ot'p. .i- 
 ,.!' wli'i --iriii I.' ii'i-i i\i' ;in ii'iji '.iii'ii l)\ rnnriiiaiiL' it, 
 sJiii tu '^iM'nii.' ,i nivv cliini t'l th' ir kui'lii'-s* hv ln^ -
 
 226 A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS IN 
 
 jng already bestowed it in the the most generous i-naK- 
 ner. 
 
 In the evening I went with Mr. G to theCovent-Gar- 
 
 den Theatre, and witnessed the uiast<^rly powers of Cooke 
 in Richard III. This play is too well known to need a 
 recital, and the talents of Cooke in duing justice to its prin- 
 cipal character are scarcely less known in England than 
 the play itself. In this instance, the n'vj^hx scene, in which 
 the shnnbers of Richard are dismrbed by deatli gmans, 
 was admirably performed, and even the trite t^xclamation : 
 ' my kingdom for a horse," produced its full effect on the 
 audience. 
 
 Between the play and afterpiece, I wandered through 
 the lionse, and was cori\inced that Kuro])ean tltcatres 
 have not been dcfHiiici,l on tijc oiiior siiio of the .Vt- 
 laniic. 
 
 There can be no doubt that they are frequented by mul- 
 titP.des, not so niu'di tor t'lc |)leasin'e of b"ini: present at 
 the j^ierfonnances, ;is because they afford the most conven- 
 iciU of all possible rendezvous, for engagements whicli it 
 is unnecessary to name. 
 
 rorNi)Li>c; iiosimtai,. 
 
 Sahbatli. J i' :);(), 1803. Amoiur the many charital)le 
 institutions of London, there is a iine liosj)i(;il Ibi ihe edu- 
 cation and siipjjori of foundlinirs. ! attnided divine ser- 
 vice tu-day at the church of this institiition, and. had a good 
 view of the children reared by the charity. Idiere were 
 about five hundred of botli sexes, ueady dressed in a de- 
 cent unil'iHin. and apparentiv very heallhy andi cheerful. 
 They vere stated in a gallerv. where th(> rising of the 
 seats exhibited them to '.;r* at advmitaoe. The preacher
 
 f>'.l.AN!), H.iLLA.Nfi AMI -<Mri. VM). 
 
 y,.tvr ;t suptMinr (iixoiirsc, m wlmii me < miiIi nrv o\ ilie 
 ( 'liri~! i.i!i H l;_:i>i;i wii^ iiiiri icil lidm liic cm^imkc dt' 
 (li.ui;viM>' iii^titiiti('ii-> ill ('!ui>ii;iii couniiiis ami in no 
 
 'lii' r. 
 
 I !' ,ill;i'if(i 111 a \iis |t.i!ii('iir .iiiil iiUrnvtliiij iii,ii;:iiT to 
 II' rliililrcii lnHiif 11^. ami ilicv , w iili niir accnril 1 1.,,, as 
 
 111' ii'tliiiL'K a->k''il. what \M>iil(i Iia\i' Itnii iln ir sii'.atimi. 
 
 Itiit I'M- tli'N iii^iiiiilinii. vine, III, ^ wni' lifNi iii-.i li\ ilii ir 
 
 [tail ln^ wiiliiiiii a n.iair w ailiiMii a iia'):lalii mi. a'lil \i j!i 
 
 i!M livaaiiiit 1' I ciiiiiii'i I 1 1 in 1 1 \v itli ^ori'tv . 
 
 I la !<' v\a^ 11" ilhliri ,i|i' \ ill lias i ml, man's disi i ai: n(; 
 
 lM\\;'i,is n;!ii 1' li.ii.imiiialhais : ma |.mi'j;ju. I luaiil all 
 1 ilih ma I'lMiil ill'' -aaa' i!r-k. a' ain-l I'l I in .-. vs In i i lis- 
 al hM 11 III'- 1 -laMi-ai'.i rlmnli ol' 1 aiji nal : iIm- |afa(li- 
 
 ' i W i - 1 1 i 't . I H I U I \ I r . ^ I I . '< I i 1 > . I 1 1 1 1 Ml . I , I \v i ; I 1 1 1 1 I I la \ 1 
 
 M^ a\ - I 1' 'Iv' ! s. I ;;, 1\ .1 ||!:| 'ri iMsl > . 
 
 i m- ii I re a ni iln' I Mimdim ' I |..-|iii il i- i Imj mt liic 
 
 ' . :' |ii' 1 I- is niaa.iii iipii w ii!i an a j i| n i ) i. i il'- |. aiiiMm/ I'V 
 
 \! ; . \\ -' . \'. In I'll 111' ja\ . iiM 111' 1 II iiai \ : nn -nli|i'rt r. inM 
 
 1)1 II' ill a ij ijili'.j I 1 iiii' |.ia<a- : II I- M 'I > i\ iniii' jiT. i\ MIL' 
 
 im I'l!!; rii; 1 a ;ii :i a!< pi i-i ii'.iH l.i Inai. 
 
 'I i:,- iha;' '; i- inm-ii Ii n pn nli' i \<\ l!ir iai!iilil\ ami jmo- 
 
 !' 1 I !a-:i; ,a : i\'i'". lair i M'iU a ! h i|i > sMtnii'iiim al liii' 
 
 .,,. -a;.' till il u ill 111' aa;,iii-.| t.i llii' !i,>st piir- 
 
 ji '-' I'l,!'.. 'Amli' ills I'lalnilN |niH'inf-. in n a viat, to 
 
 vviihii ill-;- Mi\ ri\ili\ 1 iimimli-l li\ an ailiiiaial. 
 
 iM ini,\ I 
 
 ./..'//' IiK I i;i\i- 111 n ta\iiii a lM-iia\ \siiii aiiiiilra- 
 
 : ii.ai lo I ): . I 1 1. a: a ^a . 'Af 11 inn 'W n \>\ li:- w i n k <'ilil li il 
 
 il.' .1 li'^'iMia-. aiai ill III ! -lill a. ins c .-. ni pim in- 1 1- ai 
 
 ',' 1 aipl' I'l i I'M 1. I \i a: at ais a I 'V.-. ..,.,! ij. \v 1-, -,i
 
 228 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN" 
 
 obliging as to shov. me tiie superb picturesque coloured 
 engriiviiigs, wliicli have been executed for this work. It 
 is a l>otaiiical producti'ii, intended to illustrate the princi- 
 pal classes of Linnaeus, but more perhaps, to exhibit a 
 splendid proof of the state of the arts in England. In the 
 latter }>';>int of view the work is admirable, as it is undoubt- 
 edly unri\alled in the beauty of its engravings and the 
 richness of its colours, but it has probably contributed ve- 
 ry little to the advancement of science, and stiil less to the 
 fortun(> of its author, for it costs, I bellevf, about fifly guin- 
 eas, and there is not as much reading as in a common half 
 guinea book. The work is accompanied by enjr'aved 
 heads of the principal naturalists, and by poetical quota- 
 tions adapted to the tliffcient botanical subjects. It is in 
 a very large folio, and tlie printing is dlflusi d over a vast 
 extent of hot-pressed and wire-ioore pap<'r ; I need not 
 therefore inform you tliat it meets with only a very heavy 
 sale. Posterity will probably wontler that a wt)rk so 
 sj)lendid and l)eautiful could ever have been executed, and 
 still more perliapsthat one so unprofitable should ever have 
 been undertaken. The author is a man of tVank and 
 pleasing manners, and hardly arrived at middle life. 
 
 An introductory note gained me access also to Dr. 
 Shaw, of the British Museum. As my object was merely 
 to make a few entjuiries of him as a jirofessional juan, I 
 ran say little more of him, than that his manners, like 
 those of most of the men of literature^ and science, whom I 
 liave seen in this country, are affabh^ and polite. He is 
 distinguished for an extensive and accurate knowledge of 
 '/.oology, on which branch he is now j)ul)lishin<;- a great 
 worl, , illustrated by very line engravings, taken priucijjul-
 
 IN' .1 \ M). f!'''I 1 \ Ml \ M> -''11 \ \1'. 
 
 ,\ [r.iiii (.iTji-.; il -'i!. ,.'- [,v -iT\' .'. Ill I'l' r-'.il M'lM-iini- 
 oi' l..i:iii.Mi. 
 
 'I'll.' !sin ii.r--. iij' in \' iVi'ti!^ ,"'1'. !;; ! '-ii .<.-:. l;;i- 
 iiiM -'ir, .1 l.u- i!if i.i-.l,i\ ,i;i iiui .' !u. ;'. i ii .; r. Ii !.rit.'l 
 'ii<'i'.ir\ l,il\. \\\-. l\!Ma !.-. 'r!i''\ ar' oil : ;iii> I'TriLiil- 
 iiiiis .11 lirr 1m:;-., .nil ['.-. ill" i!iir-' I'l dim'. Mi-. 
 KiM'.\ li -- I- :i \ .1' : .il>'i I li l;iii\ ' 'I ~ '. 1 i:'\ . \v liu li:i- ,i!i 
 ;!:i -i!ll|irn'il\ el' liliil'l.'i > '' i .'ii-- \\Mrii r|i:MMi 111 i/i 
 :!ii' -ill II t \ . .| I ri<!i(i-. 1 '! w .rrii -iii i- a i;:' lul" r. \'. :;liciit 
 ii;\ llii)! J I I lii'ir p'Tuli:!' ;,' . 
 
 ^'!" II.!- !ii r:i |i .aj- ri-|rli: i;. ,| j:; ! ; ; ; ;,; ;,.r 1.. |- iilr; a: \ 
 
 i''<Miiiji'ii-lini.'M'> :iiiii \\'i :;n ;;i:!iiii,i> ii; I'l' !iii'' a.it-. im' 
 ''-- ill la li|- ill.' Ill i-ruliii'' \i:".r ni' liM' aiali'i -i.iiKiiiiv. 
 t r lia' l.ith I-. !>,. .iMliii-ua i> viM In has.' haii .i ja-.u,(. 
 .\ ' 1 a 1 1 111 i i - 1 1 1 ! \ I ' I 1 ! - . a . v. ' 1 , 1 1 I J : , : ! i , 1 1 : . t . ; 1 1 1 1 ( ; a a ; - - 
 
 a''' 1 t') . . .-'a'i V. il 'i li i_ ai.i ; il 
 
 I M i naaiili 
 
 .'I,, 1, 
 
 a I \i ! \ 1 aa- -I. I a!! a.', t.i a .ii-;. a;.' \ Irrli lia- Di. 
 \<]'\ v.'f'n ;ii'- I I l\. up' II t i-i- |i::ia'i.!( - .:, .' i, '' ;!- i.| ilic 
 * l' I'x'a -. ia w ii;r!i ia' i- -aM in i . , >, \., ,.i^\. ;i 
 
 i\ !i aa .111' ! ' !, I'. I ! I r' iiii j !. ;'.. '.i. 
 
 ^\i-. l\n..v.i.'N .r.iiiia'.; .|, w'r'.i .i -i'la , i li a; la'a'iii - 
 iii-M ill! il.... - u.' li. I- iifii.-i! aaii la r i;. ..il' . w iiii \> lii, ii ||, i 
 -I p.ir'ai. at- ar.- .-l.ain a. W la'. nl' ih, ai ai.' i ^l| '-iti' la 
 ; la ir kia I. .laa ' ! 1 . aa 'I iau!. a ;' !i.i a.i'iai' aiil i: - 
 a iii\. 'I'a-- |i:-.. ' ..aaai- .a i: . :. . ' s- ^ :' ,, T . .a 
 ' I ' v. i,'- i. I - 1'.^ . ( .':;-iM .1 ja .: ij. M\ i.' 
 
 'it- I.; II. ai;: .! ia- If ' . . - a , - \ari- 
 . li a; . A 'a la llii- la ii.i !i i .; lar iia, - 
 
 111 aa- 
 
 .1 I \rrlli la . ,1- .a!nic-l i 
 
 :\ i! ;!" I" : I .- I'. I'ii- -.aiir ..! ta-' ..am.;.:- m |a( -i i ! 
 ..a'li a!i-..|a' '\ aii\ . ; - il r'\,'h lo -taiii': Iia v\ an'.
 
 230 A JOf RNAL OK TRAVKLS IX 
 
 In the same style, ]\Irs. Knowles has exeoiitecl ihe bc:,i 
 likeness of the King tli;it has ever been taken, and !iis Ma- 
 jesty has paid her very paiticular marks of respect. 
 
 No. XYIII. LONDON. 
 
 H;'i'i>h Miiicnin Ejjyptian and other aiil!([iie.i Snrcopliagu.s oi' 
 Alexander tlic Great Roman arms and rcJics Likeness ot 
 (.'hancer Magna Charta Pope's Homer Drury Lane Strong 
 furiosity to see the Royal Family Their reception attliothea- 
 'rc Appearance of" the King and of the Family The play and 
 entei'tainmcnt Opinions coiicerniiig the Kiiig Anecdotes of 
 liiin An ineiderit. 
 
 nRITlSII MLSFUM. 
 
 .iiiae 12. Til order to sec the Biilisli ^hiseuni it is iiC'- 
 tcssary to make a[)i)licati()n on a previous ^.h^\. 1 made 
 the necessary arrangcmei'.t.- yesterday, and was tliis inorn- 
 in<; admitted to see this celebratcil repositoiy (,f cm-ii)S- 
 
 \\.\V:i. 
 
 In tills instance, as in most former ones, it will be m\ 
 object, my dear brother, {o notire c>ii!y a few of those 
 thiui^s which iincre>I'.'d me most. !n(lee<i, ifthe priuci|):d 
 purj)ose of this Journal were dt'scriotion, I niiLdil as well 
 spare mvseli' the trouble of doin'i that which will hv found 
 in many instaiic(\s, to have beni f<eiter executed In'otluM's. 
 Jhit, ] write chielly because it is myself that have seen, 
 anil you and a \'r\\' othc-r of my most jiarticular friends 
 that will read. 1 c;mnot doubt that you will be warndy 
 interested in every occunc nee of mv travels and r sidfu- 
 "Vs abroudj and theref)re wlrit I. have seen, tliou-.dd, and
 
 N 1 \ Ml. I.>>I.I, \ M) '. M) r.w.i 
 !': in Id \ iKl iMiil l:i'/ i.ill' l . . .. > : 
 
 'Hi 
 
 'VII''. ii"t I'm Nm-1 i,ii''i . >!,,/ '-ii .! 1.-; !. i.l'iiji- -, M > . 
 
 Ill lii'' \,ii.l lit'I.ii,- ti; '! '- . r. li>-,/ .:;;i ! 'r;.M:,,:\ 
 -II' i > ( 1 1 11 - 1 1" H ! ' 1 1 f ' 1 I ! 1 1 , , i 1 ! ; . 1 1 1 : 1 . 1 1 1 1 ; . . ' : ' ' . ' ' ; 
 'ill V iMIl i)i- I I ill' > I I :; - ' a !iU;i iil! _' J," . 
 
 i!i'.!' ii .'jiiiiiii. ..: ' '!i' < . '. !ir It' 'I r;i/'/'/.'. '. I i!,. .1 ii-. 
 ' " 1.1 i.il ^-I' M.'ii ;il \ ! \ i;i,;; ii. '\"u< 1 r. iii-|i i; ; iu. :., !i'. 
 
 I r :ii Ii . 'Ill ( ,111 ii a'l'l 11; iv I ])!.ii' >. \\ nil tin- i i;;i i/i. ,!i ..' 
 
 II .ia-|n! liiij Ir.rai til I r i :iri . Imi lin '-.iLi-a i ;!!. a li.. 
 
 ! ,'< \'. ,ir in I \ ['t I'i. II '! I :: .11 i;: I ill' ji. i\\ 'i' nj iIm' I .! - 
 !i-ii. \.,:ii:,j lliriil :i!i' - \' I il IJhIiliii -' i!'> . a ]i.liii > : 
 |iiii ji':\ !_. 1'! ' MiiMi' t. ;i .!,.: --. a;, .t:iri( ui i- a- ii-!. aa'i - \ - 
 I 111 lai r.i -, -aji;i'i-' J i.i ha\ i' ii- ii iiiii .nI' a In r< ] I'l n' 
 til'- i \jii.aii '..iii.a -- l\ : !i il a laiaiinr < ! ^ i .ijaia.; 
 an- ai-'iv I .ri-.iiii. ,i .i.a.nrj !'.; ';.' a'a >! riit ii'-i; i"-. 
 
 I 1 1 ' \ a rr 1 1 1 I i 1 . 1 - ; . i a . . ! a I i \\ < : c ii m 1 1 a - ii ; i i \ i i i . ' : 
 i"!li!i- 111 till I.' \]a..ai-. I'ii'' iuaiinn\ w a laM w i i'j"- 
 
 III I Kail : il v\ ,1- till 11 I .1 I'.-i li 111 a \\ " i:l' II 11 ai ., ,j II 'il- 
 ia _' Willi !aa .. ' -. li.v' i I ,. ! - . .a h -. aiai ;ia'-i Iiiaiil- 
 lnl' - \. a li I -iw la I la M u t Ii ,,v lii.ii cai'i,!,. 
 
 \M ; I I 1' ills ": ;! i ' 1 . ! i a i.l ,i a . I iir W ." ' rnlilU \k - 
 
 liri'i'-;!' 1 ii. ; 'i' la i[i:,,r a-. 'I i,. 1 at' i ai ' i i.\ i h . 
 \|. ii ! . nl \ ,i; imi- laaij- . w iii. I! I 
 
 a. 
 
 |'i,' 
 
 ' .la . ,1!. -; 1 ! a.;'llia|li'.' n! tin - 1 ^ 
 
 . ' /l' a a 'T 'aaii I iii \' iia ii t ai !" 
 
 'I \ . N M.a i ,,. I n a ... a- ij.'jM,- a- a" ( , \ > \v ,i\ 
 1 1.' an il . -i "I \'. li'. !i I -Il . a. I \ a 'i t" ! > '-i \ ' a'' ' ', 
 - l"i' .. 'a tia iia a ; ' ,
 
 ...'32 A JOIRNAL OF TRAVELS IX 
 
 reads to human ambition, and especially to the thirst for 
 Riai'tlal glory. 
 
 SaV; mic'bty cliipf, \<-ns(his the hoaslod end 
 O! triumphs and of loll-, like tliine renowii'd ! 
 Did lie, who s\vay"d from Indus to the >.ile; 
 And clairn'd, presunijitnous, to be call d a god- 
 Did this di'cad iiero (uid his hvsl abode 
 Within this narrow i;ouse ! Thy very toiiib, 
 (.Ireat conq'ror of llie worhl. derides tliy claims,. 
 And -hews its marble sides by time uidinrt, 
 A\ hile winds have blown thy a>hes o'er the world ! 
 
 With similar emotions I beheld a collection of arms 
 found on the place where the great battle of (.'ami-'e was 
 fouffht, and supi)osed to havo belonged to the parties who 
 contended on that memorable spot. Th.cre is also a col- 
 lection of rings and of oth'-r ornaments for the fingers and 
 ears, which are believed to have been worn by the com- 
 batants at Caniut;. In spite of tlte disposition which is 
 so naturally felt to ridicule an er.thusiastic and cxtrava- 
 oanl admiration of anticjuity, one casmot remain miaflect- 
 ed when he realizr s that thcs'C \\v.^> \iii\e been worn on 
 Roman fniaers : flu's lielni(,'t ci)vered a Carthaginian 
 head, and t/iu! spear was thrt)\\ii by a Roman liand in the 
 pre^en(e of the victotious ilannibal. Similar emotions 
 were ex* iled by the numerous Itoman va<es : the am- 
 p]ior;e in which iheir wines were kept, and especially by 
 the relics of the unfortunate I Irrciiianeum. These con- 
 sist of utensils, vases. L^ods. A'c r.iid amoe.'j otlu'r tliing.s 
 are the vrry hinges oi' their dooi's. i5y the sii>ht of fliese 
 nutlieiitic rciii/iants oi' iliis illustrious nation, a powerful 
 .imj)iii-.*' i'- <\'!tcf| towar.'U the stiidv ol'tlieir ar.ti'iiiitii''^.
 
 ^iii-ii,' till' iimm-i I'lis ;iiui lii'jiiK inn i rvH;. niiiii i il ^]m - 
 >ii;iM!-. linn i- ;m I '.-.'v ]i!i;ni ))rli!)l'-. \s i.i li. Iirin, ;,.( j- 
 '1' I ; tills !iriik< ii. I live, ivn. .1. nil Imili '.i.-i '. . .t' tlu' li .ni mc, 
 
 .1 ^I| ii/lll'J iikl|ll^> Ml' lIlC |l. M ! ( 1i,M;.'I I . Il i- ,1 lli'ivt -'.l- 
 
 .11:. II lii> ;> ii,ili;i .1 . 
 
 riii'\ Niirwcii 111. ( )ri\ cr ( 'ri'iiiw I IP- \\ .ihli. .iiiii .1 Jill. 
 wliK'li 'jnu Mil ;i \\Miii:iir> luM.i : Ir i pi<itr:iit witli liii- 
 
 -lll_ill,ir ;i j'pii.i i l^r A 1^ ,l!ii |iri-^ri\ r.i ; 111 1 r. 
 
 '111.- /.ii.ii, ^'-.l i!' p.u llnilll U r- IMl v.> I \|.|livr .1^ I 
 ,||w!i!.! ii:i\c I \;irctiMl. 'I'll.' pliiirii ,ii :liM\ i .l' I in iiiiIm- 
 iiiM i. ill.' \ ,isi .>.'!. ti^'ii 11! ni.iuiiM-, :i.:-. ;i;i.-i m ,i., i iinni- 
 I'l'ii : ii;;t lln- lai.iil niaiuitr in wlTuli tins liiinii-'i n^ 
 
 t!ii,.ii-li the (iili'i VrW. lijiilllinrill- ni'l llol ;i1!m\\ li;r liiiic Id 
 , \,liliill>' ln:in\ n! |i|r~!'. I I i;i 1 i ImWi 'X tT 1 1:.- s 1 1 i ^ I !i I ;, .|1 
 .r -( ( liij ihr ii-:iM\\ in i! i>! ijiinl \I.r_'ii;i ( 'iiiii I.I. tin' \i'!\ 
 iii^ti mil' 111 '.\!i!i-ii til.' iiulixiliii- li;nnii> I'Morli.i !i"iii Imhj 
 
 .l..!lll. Il i~ I Mli-I'ii'! I'i'ls iillllil il>'.i .lll'l 'il'! II I l.iiUl-ii!l. 
 'I till' IP. .ill. Ir . ilili . 
 
 I \'. I-. i!.-liL'i:ii 'i '>. ii'ii 'I ^i'.'ii! Ml' iii> M i.iir.l <'i'|'\ Ml 
 |'iij)c\ 1 1 Ml II. T. in lii^ M\sii I I.I I 111 \i|ili:ij. \'iii.>' Ml I'll" 
 -li; . I^ ;ii'i- iiMU ii.iiii.j !.. < ilni ill inc- ;..|iii .ii ,i h ...L. tiir 
 ,v Ml k II I .| ..-iil- iM ;', i\ . ! ,.. II \\ III! . "I ' .; > i. .. .V,. In; - I .1 j ; ' . I . 
 
 Irn; |,.,M Wl,,. 
 
 -I .1 'I.. 
 
 '...Ml, il ;.|.-. 11 . .' 1 . ;.; '. '.' i. . ' 
 111!' . 1. 1 |.' ! .Ml!', . .<: .1. I..-. .', . I( 
 II. .. i \'. . ,'. (I ; : r \i f , .'..iir i:: ,ii : ' 
 1.1. .M .111 r, ;; ;-, M; ,, , . ,. I ,, ,. .. , 
 
 . , ..I : cN .-11 M .^. ;,,;_. n: ,,[ II,,- 1,1 I- 
 , li:i \ \\ I -. 1 .; ill 1 1,1 ',
 
 23'L- A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 irionds ; not unrrpqueiitly the lines run across the super' 
 scriptioHy and Alexander Pope, Esq. TuricketiJtam, is 
 scon glimmering throujili some of Humor's linest strains. 
 There are those who impute this to ihc poet's parsimony, 
 while others consider it as a proof that he made the best 
 use of his time, by writing down his thoughts at the mo- 
 ment when tliey occurred, on whatever scrap of papfi 
 happened to come hrst. 
 
 Pope's hand-writing was stiff but legible, and the nnmo- 
 lous erasures evince thnt his first thoughts were not al- 
 ways in his own view, the best. I read as much of llie 
 l)ook as possible in the s'lnrt space allowed me, and left il 
 "i\!t]i regret. I hope to visit this museum again. 
 
 DRIi.V-LANK AND THJ: ItOVAL ."A.MILY. 
 
 At live o'clock this evening, 1 went to the Drury-Lane 
 fiioalre, with the double view of seeing tliis celebrated 
 iiouse, and their majesiics, who were expected to attend 
 that evening, it is known when the king and queen are 
 (o be at the play I)y the style of the bill for the evenino', 
 wl.'ich, in such case alwnys betrins thus : 
 
 Bt/ coiii.'nc;/id, their majesties' servants will perform, 
 this (A-eiiing, such a piny. 
 
 iriiis tilli- always excites grent interest, and it becomes 
 necessary to <jo to the house at a very early hour, if one. 
 would obtain a seat, tor there sccmus to be as nnich curi- 
 osity in the people of this country to see the king and 
 Muceii and royal lamiiy, as if thev were jiewlv arrived, 
 ind were the first of their kind ever exhibited. This cu- 
 riosity was evinced, this evening, by a very full house, 
 !ud i)y a < '( t crowd collected around the door, waiting 
 file Hionicul \. ;,.; it .--lioidd iipen. A\'lien tlii^ took |)lace.
 
 liir |H .iplf ]iuli;c.| in liki' a tliMM ; tii- |.,|v,vj.- V..i> ]|,l!- 
 V\\. .li.M -.|i',l \^J^ til'- ^tri;r illlil \ iiiii-IK r. lii.il \\:\\ till' 
 
 - ; ! i:!iin_ ,imI laiuliii'/ 111 li'in lif^. it w.i-- > liin u iiit .1.'' < 
 
 - :'.<;:. ;i|i;iir. 
 
 I u< iK ii,\ >f.it ill I'.if ]iit. tiiii i ini'jut ! ;t,i;!ii'? 
 
 ' ii.j liir Kinj. ;.iril.i> cmhi-iiv \\i--inl\ !':i;(!mii,i!i1!' 
 : .I'll- wiio li:i.! K' Ai r (iiMiirf ^''ll :ili\ ^ii\i'ir;.:a hut t'lii' 
 
 I \';\ IlihiJ 1 tiii.i:i!i 1 U'llr!. (or ; tlllli'. Willi'' tiirV 
 
 ' ! wnliii.' Ill-' .iiri\,il mI llir kniL.' iiimI ijih' m. Miiiiiii: 
 11^ iiitii\,ii. I li.t'i i< iviiri' 111 ^iii\c\ this v|,;i,i,.ii^ and 
 I, i'_'nitiri:il till .nil', m wlm li I ^ImH umi ii,i\\i'\rr ;iitcn'|>I 
 a ilr^ri i|Plio!). Im lUiTi' 1 ii^rii j it h 111^ 111 Inn' r'Ulici > w illnuii 
 ill v^ iii_'N. ai.' <; .ill a;i.'ii;Mt^ I In' li .i^i -iirri'--!u!. 
 
 \! lii'jili !ii^ nn|i ^i\ .iiiisr.i. .III'!, in 'r.\ iiiv|:inl. tin 
 inii>r r;:iij \\idi iia-'i' iin//. 1' uilli l.i.nl cl.i | i| li irj nl 
 liiii-'s .Mil! \\ .i\ !n > 'i ii it^ : llic a; i|il:i'i^i' \\a> n ilr; Mini 
 ,' >! ii iifial'''!. 111! iin \ ^i'< iii'il .i^ i|' tin's wmilil ihm'I 
 h.'M li.iim. 'I'ln' l^im: li.i'.v I In tin' iiiiiiii"il [larl^ nf ;!n' 
 Ii.i':-!' ami tn-.k iii> -.. -.i. \\< is ,1 iii.|i|,' liii.ivr|i_ ..|.| niaii. 
 :': -!i\ . VI ; IH'I "| ;" - '. ' l\ ' a |iiili 111, aud lii- ri 1:1 11:1 i:a::ri' 
 is ,11 ir -lilx CLiii;:-! .; lii i; ..n lin' w imlr I lim;!. i i.' a[i; nars 
 'viiiiii' I ' I :;; ;:l,u .-; ,ia\ i., 1 1 nl Ills .rjc winail I iia\i' 
 
 \i I ^ I. I !i. iiiilli II- III Ills ciiiinli II ilirr .. \ 1 i\ r,,\-- 
 ririi', I.I ihii.ia-il iiii liir l,ii.:l!s|| 'juiiira. am! in aia:i\ nl 
 ill'' laiiiis. II' was lii' ssci! in ;i lilnr iniilnrni. laiail wiiii 
 'I'll, -.uiji '^... i hi''''. ' |..nil''is, A ,'. 
 
 'I '.. 1'.' '. . i- 'ill' .-'h 'i\i r III.. !' it s'.ilr i,r ihr st.nj''. 
 .-n'i"s.ts Li,-;.' it. 'mi |s a.!iii;ii..| w it ll sr,i 1 1. ! \ nU , t . 
 ' 111'" llislr li \\ ;: ! : .. r it is n 1 .nr '[i\ s ;| ,jii i| t ni j a 
 
 !' |\\ 11. a ail '\V'< \ < \.i a <' lin- . uai .is st un 1 '" ' r'.v nii ' i;
 
 236 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS l.V 
 
 jNext came the queen at a short distance from thckine: 
 again the tlicatre rang with aj)p!auses, and her iiiajesty 
 having graciously acknowledged them by the usual civil- 
 ity, was seated at the king's left hand. 
 
 She is an old lady of a j)leasnnt countenance, hut bear? 
 the marks of age in a nuich greater degree ihan llie king. 
 
 Ininiciliately behind the king and queen stood the lords 
 and ladies in waiting. They do not sit in jjresence ol 
 their majesties, and, wliatc\'er might be the honour, [ did 
 not envy tliem the pleasure of standing five horn's in that 
 -situation, for honour will not keep linibs hMni aching. 
 
 Xext came the princesses, Augu'-ta, Elizabeth, Mary, 
 Sop'iia. and Ainoha. They were receiveil with ajjplauses, 
 hut less arik-ni than ihos^' bestowed on their majesties ; 
 they retni'iuKi the compliment very graciously, and took 
 tlieir seats, \hc Joids and laches in waiting taking their 
 iatioiLS itehiiul them as liehind the kinnf and queen. 
 
 Their box is at the richt hand ol' the royal box, and is 
 richly orname-Ued with blue silk and silver lace. In a 
 box immediately at the riaht of that, a lunnber ot' female 
 attendants were seated I believe tliey wt^vc maids of hon- 
 our ; they wore those tbrmidable hoop jietticoats which J 
 jnentioned on the birth-day. Above the mai(is of honour 
 were otiier royal attendants, lords, L^entlemen, tvc. 
 
 The princesses ai'e not beautihd women : they are how- 
 ever, with one excepiiun, ladies of fine stature and com- 
 inanding presence, and h:i\ e much dignity in their appear- 
 ance. 
 
 Last of ;;,iL a|:ipeared one ol tlie kinir's sons, the Duke 
 of Cuinbt rhuid. b.ut, he rame into tiie box l)elo\v tiie prin- 
 cesses, on piwpo>e. 1 presume, to avoiti applause, fcr it 
 was not givMi till some time in the evening, when he rose
 
 i \ :, \\;>. ll'il.l \M) \N"i) V( I 1 AMI. .- ', 
 
 liniii iniiiiiil a -iT>-.;i and viicwiil Imn^i il. \\i <.- .i I.aiui- 
 MiiHi' III ,a !; a!Mii iliiitv-diti'' nr tliirtv -I.>ar \ < ar- 111 a'jf. 
 ,iv I -l:,iii|,i ^u|i|iosc ircun lii> ciiiiiiti-iuiMcr. 
 
 [I i\ i'a_ laa^la il ilii' ai' !iii ii;> hii^iih v^ hI iiiinn liiciir' ai.'i 
 -1 ,!,:,; lii'i;- i:M:''-lif^ ami lln' fo\ai laauly. w c w ill [a >- 
 <- ..! t.. tl.<' piav. 
 
 IJi-t r>. all. il;- riiri im r.sf. aipi .li-cuvi m! a tiim;.. 
 "! ;. ',,|-. :i'.i(i ,;rti>---. X, (jn ta, ^ia_'f. w Im ^iii:'/ ( <in\ ^ i\ r 
 I' at ' I'-.n r M,,r i,!iij.'" 1 la' wlmlr a^-i!iilil\. imt ,< 
 I'piiiij III.' |aaari ..i> tiaaii-' l\ > n. piiinil in v;ii_iiv_; i'|. 
 I'li'iia^, wall a .li _]< ol /.<\<\ ami aiiiin;i[i,Mi, wiiirh (muM 
 liai .i!\ lii' viii jia^v, ,1. 
 
 'I ill' |ila\. uiali uiv tiif >r|i(h.l ! t ^>- : a' lal, w a- [ht- 
 roriii'ii ill a \c\ a>lai!ial)!i' inanai'r. '>Ii>. .I'a-Man ami 
 \li-^ I'liji-- aia.iM'j tin WLin-ai. ami l.lii^tiai. aiimiiL' lii- 
 iinai, I.'aili' a!,ii l\ r\c-i llrd. 
 
 Il \<>\i ii,i\>- irad tJif pln\, \Mii will 1' Ml' ml" r liiai 
 ( iiaili-, Miiiaia'. In iii'i l> dilia'd tn fxtitaia' laa' i il lavsmrnl 
 li\ la- "\ui I v'ri', a J iia <. av hi- la -I rr-. mh r. t . rai-' lU' ai- 
 i-\ . ia:i:j-lar laaiiU | /ni iii i- [. i iln' iMinnirr. wall tiic 
 -',. , !i\ii\ vNii.iii ill, I pla.rji'd iiiia ii'lt) (ii--':i-~.. 
 
 II. ,1 I,- wall wii ail .1.,.- iiii\ iiia'a' Iin'. il iiul wilii lii-- 
 I , a I ' ' it .' !;>. a a' I a> Im'' iM' larr- ja i' a \ 'n 'I'j . la' \ la'' - 
 \\' ,>< ; ., ! _inal- \'. i'l', .laM li'iw iI^a ai-iai _ iiivln'! lli' in- 
 ^ '. I- . II . . ' a'-alli aa a. - lia ii". li'! >' .wr \\\" "\ la.' laia- 
 > 1; ' ',,. i'a aiin i - ..I I'a i 1 la a,"ai . aiai /'I'V ,'y / '/- li's' 
 h :,, I'nnf ! li' // // ,'/ , ;-, r lym: hi ,,r . ,J.i. 
 
 ^ . li > la. I a,|i. r ..r llic i.alili.- aaa.!, ;a.>.iar. .' :.\ i'.. 
 
 . I 'i; . !i II . . .1 |.' ra! .''.a a"aia a i .' i 1 ^I. i\ :ili . 
 
 1 ill -I'. In.- I ..il-' I Laa- Il ; .!.>i;-\ 
 
 :, ! )aa._ ii. ' ,. .._ .aa-! I;i.- laMc I ,m,.:, iIm! lla- >. a: i- 
 
 ... ai pi.i.l ; .. i ; il. I., ; i. -; ..pn' "'- . .' '.liM la-l .i :.-a' ' -
 
 238 A JOrRNAl. OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 iterated, from every side. I thought from the king's 
 countenance that he was not much efaiiilcd with this very 
 distinct expression of tlie leclings of the house, for I^ord 
 Melville is a favourite with his majesty, Avhc, in tliis busi- 
 ness, has taken an active interest in his behalf. 
 
 The Sciiool for Scandal abounds with point, wit, and 
 liamour, for wiiich the king seemed to have a high relish, 
 for ho laughed frequently and heaitil}'. 
 
 Alitor the play. Rule Britiatiia was sung b}- the whole 
 house, with great (nithusiasm, and the princesses joined in 
 th.is chorus also. 
 
 There was a ]ioeiical prologue to the interlude, all the 
 lines of which ended in ation, and l>onaparte, under the 
 nick-name of r<ony, b}^ whicli appellation he is contempt- 
 uously and jcjcosely called in England, was severely sat- 
 irized, as well as his long threatened invasion. Tiie king 
 seemed more delighted with this than with any thing : he 
 'aughcd, almost continually, and the queen even exceeded 
 him. 
 
 The aftcr-jiii.'CG was i/nuth, love and Jolli/, three j)er- 
 sonai!es whicli, il nuist be allowed, are usually found in 
 comijany. 
 
 A leading circumstance in this play is, that a lady, ful- 
 ling in lovt! with a youth who is re(juired by a stern uncle, 
 on whom lie is depend(>nt. to many anothc^r, e(iui|)S her- 
 self in the dress of a post-boy, and, under this disguise, at- 
 tends her lover, on pretence of bein^^ his servant. In the 
 be'jinuing of tiie scene, the lady appears (ui the stage in 
 liiT proper dress, and ii;is an interview with her lo\ei. 
 'i'he uncle, h(i:!'.'' aniiounced l)y a servant, she jirecipitnte- 
 ly retires in',;) ;in adjolnin-i apnrlme)it, and. to elude dis- 
 ^o\*yv. ill I! u 'V i;i;;U!t<:s returns to the st;iu<? in a iVo<'k-
 
 i -.1 \M), II'MI.W!) VM -. >M.\\i). J,;>> 
 
 Mi;. UH'ki y-<Mji. ['iiitali'uiw. aihl Im.iiv, ui;li uliip ami 
 ^; ii -, .111' 1 till' ^1 nil, Nlrnlr ami ^iii.n t air > i an i i j'l. -ti i.in ; 
 !i':t a!lll.'ilL:li il' I" ilt'licat-' larr ailii fiMiiiliim' voir.- I>.|i,i\i li 
 
 ,: \w 1,1 Mil. >:i'' >t I'llli-ii I ': : a I lU .11 ra-i'. I 111-- Il an^iMi- 
 
 iiiiii l^ ^'1 caiiiiiii"!! Ill .i II i> li inlK f.cr ir|iii laa,;. 1. 
 a, i! a iii'i'i'-t w.i'ii ri laii ^.i Mr nv. i/niii.' liir i>'lm-iama' 
 wliiiai ^!:i' iiai;!!! I'> I''! I'l --iiili an imi' r.ii iini. a^ to an- 
 j)i -iv UN a imlilii' ^laj'' in ina^nirni.- ailin', ^lir iiiii^t ai 
 I. a -I h- ! .:.j I'l l!i 'I r! IN, mT s ii tmui- u .urn 11 u laiin \,i li- 
 -!i I- ilK "^aiaiiiami. I N. >ii.- is, m t'n' laiiL'uaL'f d t!iis 
 
 . Ill'- .'isi-. I !,. I "lillllilali rhar.li I< In : a klll'i "I ll'lnilH' 
 
 I 1 'iiNiitv . thai i: ' i.!n u|Min lii''. .iii.l lis i-s 'alia- iiii'i>l nl 
 ' ,ia N w i; j|. .Ill ' I' iiij il Ml . 
 
 ]'{'. ;i' I I 'I Ml tari'> I !ii - i'\ - iii ii .- u . i Imw .'M a' tnlia iMv 
 ' - : I . 1 w la I ' -p. ' I 1. 1 .1' la I' \ . hii; i li. i r \s i i > v; i|| m,!,!'^ 
 l! ; - '. ! a a .1 U'!'. '.aiiil ih't (" 11' .li \s a li'iiil a l!"\'. ii m 
 I 1 . -il. 
 
 '! I:" I; il'a 1<. Iiic lia' ilT'- i> ii .1 a -' I"" ! I'.r iiaaalN : il 
 
 ' ! . ; 1 1 . 1 a I , \ - I' 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 : 1 1 I - a - 1 ' i ' m 1 1 1 i . ^ i ai , a - 
 
 ' 1.1 li, 'N' \\ 11" 111 > ' la 1 w . M- \ ;. \> N ill ,!;- 
 
 ' ' ' , 1 1 11 ' ! t . I I i ' N I a ' I i a 1 1 1 . ' a I 11 1 ' I 1 1 . a 1 1 1 1 ; a I - 
 
 a, I - .'ia.a \ I.;,, I .-I. 
 
 \ ' ' ." .-I la' 'i|-ain 1 a lie- jn i lormaai' n. i ;, !, ia_ . (.a a 
 
 I . ! !aiii.i\ I- !:.'!. w til a;.|'' 1 1 I ~. a' .ji ail a^ w ia ii 
 
 ;!' \ ' nil I ''!. 'i il'' ill. aa N alw .r. N hav . ~i .!.l!' i > ,a ,ii- 
 
 '''' ' 1 ! if' -1 ! ', ' a-.i' I : .1 I \'. - a! :i ' I . \ul il 11 \i ' 1 
 
 '. . 1 I aa!\ .ii'iaail li -, 1 .Ji'i ii"i 
 
 - .-' 1 \ ' ,1 i-.V '>', ! a It t 111 !! hillilii' ; \v .. ~ 
 
 \ - Il ' I a I ! i ai- ii I '!' 1 JK'l'- Il ' ' la-a riuii" I ''; ir ' \\ a 
 ' ' 1 111 ' ; . I ' ' ' I . 1 1 > I 1 1 j ) j ' ' 1 N 1 1 1 1 1 1; 1 1 I - N 1 . 1 a - 1 1 . I 1 i I . . I '. ' i 1 1 \ 
 I' I' lit p'lN.iijN. >"ai'' liai-'i's N ! \ , lii.ii I,.; i> in ia~
 
 240 A JOtn'vXAL OF TRAVKI.ii I.V 
 
 (lotasic. ami w'thout hesitation repeat liis remarks witli an 
 air of ridicule, and \)\iS[h at his oddities. These things 
 depend very niiich on the political prejudices of the indi- 
 vidiial. 'i'he truth is, however, that most persons in En- 
 <lland have little knowledge on this subject, because they 
 have kw opportunities of knowing any thing, of the royal 
 family. Peter Pindar's scurrilous muse has furnished ev- 
 ery low^ \vitling witii ridiculous anecdotes of the king, and 
 they are retailed with as little knowledge and as little so- 
 licitude regarding their truth, as is felt in America. Some 
 persons in the opposition make no secret of their ardent 
 V. ishes foi- the elevation of tJie Prince of AVales, and ear- 
 nestly look tbrward to that day. 
 
 A stranger will not be in haste to ally himself to the 
 prejudices of any description of j^arty politicians, or of 
 their followers, but will attentively consider the evidence 
 on both sides of tlie question. 
 
 The following anecdotes concerning tiie king will illus- 
 trate his hrmness, his magnanimity, and his discernment. 
 
 A\'lien the kinof was shot at, a few years aiio, in t'le the- 
 atre, instead of manifesting any weakness or fear, he mere- 
 ly turned to a lord in waitin<r, and said : ' Sir, ])lease to 
 go i;ack and tell the ladies''* liot to come in yet. J'tjr t/icre 
 viaji he nnoihcr,'' and then (juietly took his seat. 
 
 'I'owards the huter part of the American war, Col. 
 
 !'n<mhu!l, who had i)orne arms, in. a distinguished station, 
 
 atniinst llie kini^', and whose father, ihe lirst fovernor 
 
 Trumbull of Connecticut, was well known in i^nidand, 
 
 lor iiis veiy active and efficient sup[)ort of the American 
 
 ri.c ';ii<'t'ii and pi-iMC('--:o.s who, accordini; to nistoin wvvc 
 Mailing- ill ill; ailioiiiii);^ I'dcsii, and would a-; a tiiaC'ji' of course- 
 have come hi wiilir.i a few udiiute-'.
 
 t \. I wn. II'.;. I \Ni) w [) ' '. i \i) 
 
 iM^ -. ^:,. \\. 
 
 W .1. 
 
 i I , . 1 . \ \ 
 
 \., 
 
 ;!i.- ,1.1 >; : ;::,t- 
 
 l.i |.i t:ir , 
 
 Ml \\ . -t I
 
 242 A JuURNAt, OK IRAVLLS IN # 
 
 " therefore repose implicit confidence in this repn^senta- 
 ' turn. 
 
 " This young gentleman must in the mean time sufler 
 "'great anxiety; he is in the power of the law, and I can- 
 "not at present interfere. But go to him. and assure him 
 " from me, that in the worst possihle legal result, he has 
 '' my royal word, that his life is safe.''' 
 
 "Mr. West came to me with this message immediately, 
 and you may well believe that it softened essentially the 
 rigours of an imprisonment of viglit mouths.'"' 
 
 If you consider who was the king's prisoner, that he 
 was, in his view, a rebel, and had just come from fighting 
 in an elevated station against him; that his lather was a 
 most active and eificient h< ad of one of tlie most actively 
 and invcteiately rebellious states, I think you will allow 
 that the king's ar.swer, v hich amounted to tliis ''should 
 the courts of law cond .-mn him to death, I will save his 
 life by a pardon," constitutes one of the finest passages of 
 kindly history, and could never have proceeded from a 
 little mind. 
 
 Another anecdote Vi'iiicii 1 have from a source equally 
 entided to confidence, illustrates the king's sagacity and 
 |)rrsence of nrmd. Whatever may be the merits of the 
 Irish ijiiestion of Catholic emancipation, it is wellkn^nvn, 
 tliat the Kinir, has alwiiys stated conscientious scrupirs as 
 ihe eround of refusing his countenanee to the various pro- 
 jects wiiicii have been starKnl lor effecting this object. 
 
 After lie had i;i a great measure lost his eye sight, but 
 bcfor his mental powers were at all impaired, a new])ro- 
 ject was submitted to him; regarding liish emancipation. 
 A pa|<er was read to him proi'essetlly contaluina this state- 
 nie'.it,and his roval siunutme vas rcfjuested and expected,
 
 T Nil \ \ f), til/:.: \,) \,, 1 , . ,-1, _ ; , 
 
 111 Ihr il'CUiMi III !''!i'\ i"i'.i,(.ll> .1 \i ', .i.lV.li.;! ;.jl... . 
 'I ln' kill.: mimi ,1: iii|\ s;i-, n ;<,! \'r.'0 ii v\ i-- ..ii I'tii ;;i'.t io 
 iMij'''^'- uiiwii hull 111 i-,'ii>i ,'^:i ,: 1 (ii t,. I !;;; 'iii -~ : tiiil. 
 \vi'iiH;I .li-'-DN ( 1 in.' M.i -;l~|li'i'iil. lri]i:> v'l ! llii jui^'i'l 
 w !n> li 1 i it .-('l l!;.- \< .;)< V. [> j.i I" ;i r,it,.i;: , / , . . ,i;i.! ,,!)- 
 t.iwi ,111' it lb I I lip' I \> iiif 1 1 \\ '- \v .mil -i. Ill lip' ;i:i 'm Mh'. 
 li i\ MIL' 'Ji't li'l "! Iiii- ii: .;i, ill' 1' ';mi >;< i .1 I h;i J | m ; i ii, 
 w IP' iiii 1 .n'l-i.ii 'It lil', (>::: i'l, 1 1 > In m > _" i i - t" 1' i.i '<' 
 
 ll.'l a.' liIl ll|i- . : H I \S ;i:. il 111 rir--t |li I -nil li ;;| | i . il, -- ii 
 til :i a\. -In',,, til 1 1 I;, liii !H.I (| lltr ll'l'li'l - MliM it. Ill 
 
 ili.! -'.. .iii.i i; '.v iiN |mii:;i! :,. '", a <.,v\ i]\\"' m i;! li.i:': !'i..pi 
 
 will' it >\ ,> vi It, i 1,, 1; ;.,:.i i.!ii..;N (.'Kir.irv l.> iii. 
 kill , "- \ ii '.^ -. 
 
 II I :i,lii',i-it. 1\ i,ii|.iii'.i liii! a- ii III Ml', iiC (Willi! l!"i 
 
 Irii-t III- - ! \ ':il-. ii:' \V'' i! i im !-!,: i t 'ii^'l. \ l!i<':ii. ami 
 
 w jtii' ' It li' !a\ ; M 1,1 ' I iiiMii" \', :. '.' ',: ,;i-i : . aiai m.!* it'ii a 
 
 111 W nil" ; i !) :':_ Hii/i- I. 
 
 \ ^ I M 1 1 . 1 ; V 1 
 
 \ 1 \^ I- \\ .li A 'I :, I III' I i''ii r 1) i\ . ,11,11(111' III 'V a! I . \- 
 
 I 1; 111 :i-. I I ' '.! ,1 ,l!'. nu I ..a ' -! J ai ^li i.ii.ini-r \\ Ir mi 1 ii,,.! 
 k . 1 > >' ! -.::! ', 1 - a . I . \ \ 1 1 1 i i . I \v , i - 1 1 , i - > : 1 1 j 
 lap. I!-, '.iii.,.i ii a r. -'.',). a:i i I." .''-.i. kit in iln , .| ., ,, i ,ii.- 
 (i.i I :.Mi. W ! > . , . Ml I M ii ..Lin , a ,' ,1 . - - ! .ail k.'ii li 
 
 tlii.i;!\ -. . !.' . \:\ aia' \ j.i < ! J iia I'a i.l !! llii- kil.il la a 
 Iia . ; . 1 lai iMii * I li I'll :i:i'^ aaa ,ni i i !i: ia r i!' n a nl ia- 
 I. I -: I-- ! \ III I ill III w ii It .. I ;' 1 li.i\ . 'i. . ,1 11, iaa. , ! iiv ,1 
 'J i I 1 1 1 r I i . ( I a 1 i 1 i ' : 1 11 ' ^ . 1 1 I M 1 1 1 . I I i II 11 i \'. i ! 1 I I ; ; 
 L^iM!! i> ;;i m; I i- ' i v . aa^l aa t lia i , a i i k^ii |.,'i I \ . -- 
 \ 1 1 1 1 M I .' I h a 1 \^ a ail I . a : ! ; ' i : . k \ - , . ; : i , u 1 n i .i. ' 'v\ i i a 
 
 liaal (.iiu 
 
 ;r . \\ la 11 ji \ii 
 
 \
 
 2!44 A JOUBNAl. or TKAVKLS 1\ 
 
 'i'owii. This incidcntj of course, excited sonic interest 
 uii<i produccil conversation. The ccntleman to whom I 
 allude spoke in the I'.ioliost possible terms of Cencral 
 VVashinoton : and ijuleed. concerninLr iiim, there appears 
 to be i>iu (!ne senlimem iii Knii^'.r,d. Even the kiniT; 
 who is said to 'iave d,;c]ari^I, durinir the wIioIp of the 
 Aiuerican war, tiuit if the .\meriraiis prevailed, \\'ashii!g- 
 ton would f;n;;;!v prove the lyraiit of his conntrv, when 
 he %'olunta;'iiV relln.'iuislied liis command of the army, 
 proneuriced thnt he was a creat and ;;ood man. 
 
 riie Kin'.: is s-.iid ai>o, when srettini: into his carriage at 
 Kfw, to !;a'.e !,' en overheard In- two Americans, while 
 he e::j;r('s:>ed hiin-vif tims, !o one of his ministers : '' We 
 must p'crsever;' v:c nmst Mcrsevere it icrts by pro-.-tc- 
 I'cranrp that 'li'ui^lhi^j^ton (ind rranldin carrjrd I'uir 
 points.'' 
 
 The v;j!,i(.(t (irci;;5vcrsation was not understood by the 
 i-'enrieinan who evcrheard this rcs-uask. 
 
 o^i'. ^'c;'!' i'!i';'t:')ii of ;ui ( ;M;r'i; a oi' \:'-iivii:-'- *! i'^tul'-- - 
 :^vp(;:i;- '''v{-''h':c^ frt' '!'c:i';caii -- ''rti-i'crt iVoin die ^;:ii!riv 
 -r:>'i!,'i :':; -if!';- --'J iu; *n !,'- ; .-.'l^ir ;;rilo;y--'!"iic -i-a! hill. 
 
 V \ ''''{: w \ o!' y]\v. HATif-i: i>:' \'\':<ru\ \vv. 
 
 J, I,"" i ;. f j[i;iit -^ome tifO'' to-i'.iy in \ic\\in'r thi; 
 :>iini^'a'iia (It ill" iiaifle of A iriiicourt. painted hvi'"!'':-
 
 i:\i.i, \>i>, iioLi.\M AM) -' OTi \N!i. :^ ;.i 
 
 l'lioM> of lln' haltli' ul" Aloxainliia an. I nf llu' pa-'-a'jr i>! 
 thr lu'hii:!' Ill' Loili. li\ till- >anii- arli^!. \\rn- f\l:i!)itc(i la-f 
 u inii r ill l!n' <'it\ ol' \cu-\ c.rk. 'Vln- 1 itiiT I siw iIick' in 
 j.iiia.irv. il was a \ri'\ L'lan.l iiaiiiliiiL'. an I -m is this n| 
 tlh' lialllc ul' X^'inrMurt. Tin' linii- di' thr hull. i< ih il in 
 w liich lli'iirv \ . ihsiiioUMls i.) .Iilt'iid hi- nmilit r ihc 1 )lll^' 
 m" ( ;h)U(TNi,<r. w li.i has ['alli'n ui.w n u .-uii.lf.L 'I h. 'if is 
 (iiif ildi'^htiiil .fl'i . t [ir.i.;:!.-. .1 h\ ihi- paintiiiL'. I'r.au lii^ 
 r.ialusi.in. sjiIimhI' 'i', an.l ihiMihiil rainajc ol the halt!;'. 
 \m;i tinii tt> ih.' lijhl si.lc i>i the |iirti!r('. \sh>'!i' ihf lixcr 
 ^.Miinif. \\ iu'iin.' t;i .lU'.'h a eh irn'.iiiL' c.Mnitrv. |ii'c-.'nt- all 
 1 III' iiiili he iiiii.-s .if I miis.'ajic. . 11 w ii:/h. lli:' ry\ tun. ill:: 
 with h.ii r.'i' Ir^ nil -rcn.- df hlo.i.j, il. h.,'iil> t.i iijiiist . 
 I'hi- haith' \\:i- |iLri.'iiMi>.!v stl.'.'ii.j |j\ ih'- ]ia' it.'r. lur it 
 u as oiH' ol' till' nn'>t sp'rinh.l uliich tin- l.ii li-h ;:.]).''< 
 al'ia-.h 
 
 It wis I.ia'jht hv llrnrv aLMins! iniMi'ii-' ..^iiN; tli<' 
 Ih.'iifji l.i-i tt n t!i" i-ainl ih'Mi -l.nii. aiiinii ; \i ii. ipi \', ,. s the 
 
 (1 ,\\.T (it liuir iLiLilitX. whih- th.' IjIlI'-!! h^-t chi', ' !r\\ 
 
 h;m !r<'>i-.. 'I ii.'ir jui-.nifis, aii.T li,!' !m!i!'', i":i",r!'.i-.: t.' 
 in.'i.- 1 liaii ! hi-ii- w !i.)i" arni\ . 
 
 'I'Im- [i.iiiiti r has i:;lr.>l:n'.';l (Wir \ .: \ ::::> ' i ' ' '' 
 
 (I 1 1: I \ all' !ii-:' .1 \ . \ 'I I ji"! >h II' :hl. 1 1 .1 u - ', '. i\v.- i 
 ilil. . t htsi- \\ a I'- ii\ liiN uil.'. \\\t". artlial.'i |.\ a'ait.-ll. 
 a('ri)!iijiairii .liiiia. ill ihi' r!iai .a'l rr . .l" a i alt' ii. ! ' !* : Ilii- 
 sh'' .inl. .!:'>-. i! :.i ir.a-.'aliiM' aliiiaa ar 1 i I i I la aiai.ii:. 
 \ I;. I 'J lli I p^ ilir.i>a. a I ia' caa i ] la; ii I.i tlia! tiiiia w i' h >a li i \ , 
 tia' la.iiliai; til a'll la lliiv Laltii'. ai;.: hi- wil-' i- r\h:li;;.'.l 
 .11 ' ijf III -; 1 .11 ' I \ \ ,iii~, I a 'Jilt:. st.H .; .< n ii\ > |- iit i- vl ^ m 
 ' .''!. ai I' i . ; .'I rl : a ' 'he si .ii a. is \\ ho -' i : ; u 'it h lai 1. 1 hi-' 
 i""> ' ;% ;i:'in ;h" In-Ki. 'I'iii- :iai;'i '^as j'.ai;:'.! w < ). -
 
 2 16 A JOniXAI. OF TRANELS IN 
 
 t(*l;c!-, j 4] ."; th(,' picture covers Ijctween two and tliret' 
 lli()::^aiul tc'ct. 
 
 I aiii fond of j)anor;inias. especially of battles. Their 
 nia<r!iit(ul(>. the ctnis ('/h'!',! distinctness of the objects, and 
 the ciiciilar p<;si:;in of the can\ ass, correspondino' with 
 the rt;d horizon, all tend to t^i^e one the strongest impres- 
 si'ir. of ihe r(vdity ol' the scene, 'i'hey are, at ))resent. 
 nuicii ii) \o'.rue in Ihi^dand. I have already mentiontHJ a 
 very frnc one of the rock, fortifications, and bay of (iibral- 
 {;';, wilh a portion of (lie adjacent parts of S})ain and of 
 I'le opposite coast of Africa. 1 hey are exhibited in bnii- 
 dina''^ coiistructed on pur[!0u' for their reception; they are 
 circrtiar. like un an!p!d theatre, and liglUed only from. 
 M.bove. 
 
 T)U BOURG? CORK MODELS. 
 
 June 18. Siiice my arrival in Lon.don, I have inei 
 with some of iiiy ; liov, jjassengers in ihe OiUario. Prob- 
 ably tiiere are a few accidental nieetinos whicdi excite; 
 niore ir.lciTst than ilioie pro(hiced iiy bcinii lii'llow-passen- 
 gers on boaid a ship, and 1 liave not often been nuire 
 ;-;iatilied with any similar incident than in findint''. in this 
 in)nn iis!,' wildenn ss of men, !>r. l and C'apit. T . 
 
 Tiny l)reak fasted with nn' this morninsr, ami we went 
 rioon al'ter, to sec- Dn Boura's Cork modtds rsf amdent teni- 
 ])i<'s, theatres, niai;si hnniis. A c. p.rincipaily IJoman. 
 
 This verv innenions man. Dn ilomsr.a i'lenclnnan, from 
 ;;;i actual ros;:!cr,re of nine ye;!rs in Italy, eaineri the infor- 
 iiritloi! !i( ccs-arv lor the e\rci;lIoi; <!l'his wonderfnl w(.rk. 
 ii would I>e doiiia him iivi at injuslici' to consider his exhi- 
 bition me!-el;\ .- a display of inv.emiily. In this view 
 ylr.;i;> it m!'V. eyxh'' 'diniraiion : but. froui the veiv i^'iTvc-
 
 IIm.ii;iii ahl!' j.iiii''-. it ' iii:)iiiM!i!r, .!> m : :i iii ii_:;t .iini i'l- 
 
 -!l ih'ti'MI. Ill' !l.l> cohti i<, i '>, 1 r .i<'\ i.\ iM'i^ il.'l:''. 
 \vi!!i ,1 !rl!i .'I'Ui'-ilt ;i:ii| ]iUI;;. t'l _ ! \ i |.i r;,.-', i-,.^,\i - I'l 
 -'111- I'l ill.' iii'i-[ .1 !:iiiii'.i 1 ii,i> I'l ,ni'.iii'.it\ . \lii':ii: 
 
 I'll! !! till' ~. jLiliMl.;', > . ;'l- !m !..ujiii_' ;i . i'.ii' V|,iiili,. 
 |.nn;'\ . ihimiT a \ iiii-\ iiii i:i .n" itniiir. 
 
 I ||' - ji .! Ill 1- 111 iii<' '. jiM ! 1,11,1 s . ii'ar till' V j,j i: Hi 
 \\ V . ; I! iiii:' - l! I i!ii li'iai'-. 
 
 '1 II il wl I;i IImliI;! a!|,j ( i,i i,,I i:. ,il Vii'Mi.'. I w i U , 
 Ijii! - 'V'>:i\ I! ''.!>'. 
 
 \ II _i,"- I.. ii!i. al r i';-;;';in. .:. n \ ip! ,. 
 I .!r am: ilii, I!' al I'l- a! \ I'lnii i, -.i: i i-i l<v \ )< Hii'-I ('i- 
 
 ii'i't IMW Ii'ai ilt.iii.. I ill- i- .1 la.'-I 111;, !i 'ai. tr. '. ; 
 
 i ! _ 1 \ 1 - I J a ' a r , 1 1 1 1 j ' ! ' la 1 ' 1 1 I 1 ' I a 1 i ^ :'.'.,< . i a a a , , i , 
 
 1 1 \\ a - r a 1 1 1 1 ) 1 r ' 1 1 '. ; s I a ' -i ' , 1 1 -^ ; i i , i ; ; , a 1 ' \ : .\ a 
 
 lil.ii-aiii |Hii|,li. In -, a - .1 '^.ili'i'v ; ,i I\\, (> lli'i-a.M 
 
 !i., a . .Ill i \uii 11 <! lu , ; 1 1. II \\ lalJ In '1,1 a; ' s i i;, . ,- , , !. 
 
 l:l -aril |.!ai't - l\a .la, a'l.I ll'ail ill- a--i-i.. ' .. \<> -' ' 
 (|i,,v (',,;ai -t, ,,| \^ ;i., a, .-!- v\ aa ^i 1 :,.iImi -. -.i '. "i .' i' i- 
 
 a! a - Willi ' ail ..;,.. r. \' :; a ii , ;. ~ , la , 1 i i i i i , i v , ,; 
 
 I . : . na lai ..| 1 . ,: >. aa.l la- 'I. a;. I- . 
 
 . I a a i I , \ I M 1 a I i 1 1 . a a i ! i a a , ! i a a , a a : 
 
 l!a 1 I . I,, jar ,,; In- > , 'lii-. i x.j a a , 
 
 ,, il ; . I, a- I., a : 1,
 
 24S A JOURNAL OF TPwVVELS I\ 
 
 The great cascade of Tivoli, with the town and adjoiu- 
 hig country, presents a very interesting scene. Here the 
 artist has contrived not only to give correct copies of a!! 
 the fixed objects, but he has represented the fall and roar- 
 ing of the water in such a manner, that the allusion is 
 complete. The water seems, to the eye, actually to pour 
 down the preci]iice, with copious foam and spray; that 
 is, machinery gives motion to something which has the 
 appearance of water in violent agitation. 
 
 The last thing which I will mention is JMount A esuvius. 
 as it appeared in the eruption of 1771- ^\ e were con- 
 ducted behind a curtain where all was dark, and thioiigh a 
 door or window, opened tor the purpose, we perceived 
 Mount Vesuvius throwiuii out tiro, red lio't stones, smoke 
 and flame, attended with a roaring noise like thunder; 
 tlie crater glowed with h -at, and, near it, the lava had 
 burst through the side of the mountain, and poured down 
 a torrent of liquid tire, which was tending toward the 
 town of Portici, at the foot of the mountain, and toward 
 the sea, on the margin of which this town stands. The 
 waves of the sea are in motion the lava is a real Hood of 
 glowing and burning mutter, which tliis irigenious artist 
 contrives to mana<j;e in such a manner as not to set fire 
 to liis cork mountain. The flames, cinilers, fiery stones, 
 &c. are' all real, and it is only conceiving the scene to be 
 at sach a distance as creatly to reduce the scale of the 
 mountair, and one wiL thus obtrin not only a very im- 
 pressive l)iit probab!\a correct id a of its presence. 
 
 In the erujiiiou of 177' i the lava I'an down a prrci])ice 
 of seventy or eijdity fe 't. and prcsenred tlie awful view of 
 a cataract of fire. Tiiis. also, by shifting his macJiinery, 
 Du Bourg lius contrived to ohibit in a very striking nuur-
 
 f M.I WD. H'll I \ M V Ml 
 
 II. ,. - :,- I .: Oil, ,i I 
 
 ::' , . .11 : I -i.;'j.,-' !..'. I.- -'I 
 
 ,.; !': - . l.'i IM,' ,1. ..!; j'iir- 
 
 ! i|i Ip' \ > 1' ijil ! ':'^. 
 1; \ : . ;;r!ii. Hi ! 'A ill li< .il" .i !l U' i 
 
 ),. i; 
 
 - i )' \; I, - 
 
 .' ,iiii; mn I'r^; i.; - .. m' I w t m w iili 
 111"-. ;ii:' i ',',' \ I \ irw 111 ill! ^ \ ,1-1 
 :' ' I ! v|i :ir , ,1 ( !.Mii ' ; .- \<r [n i i;ii- n! 
 
 , ; .' ;:ii i n', iini imii^ i i! :n i !i Mi .n rlii- 
 : ,1 ,;. w-,i|,l:..:i .! ->. I'.iMl^. 
 
 . ; ,1 ill' I I'l'l',:"' ' ! I . lii' ! Ml. . 'I. 
 It i> .11-. .1 . !\ rii 1. . t. 1,1 I!. .!,- 
 .,- ,1 - iijiil il" ri\ i']:',i[.{\\r<\ ; '- 
 
 '\, \ , .,1- '.., If,-, I ! ,- , !i 
 .. N... I : , ' -.1.. /, ,
 
 2'iO A JOUKXAL OF TRAVRLS iN 
 
 clrcumncvvigalion of charily, in Vfhicb it was not his ob- 
 ject to survey th.e grandeur of tomplf's and palaces, but to 
 take tiie guage pjkI dimensions of hunicin depression, 
 misery, sorrow, and contempt.*" Here is also a statue to 
 Johnson, to Sir William .lones, and to Captains Burges 
 and i'"a!coner. who fell in battle. All these statues arc 
 executed in tl;r^ finest st\le of modern scul})ture, and are 
 very ornamciUHl to tlie church. 
 
 Within tiie doriU'of St. i';uirsare suspended a consider- 
 able numl'tr of tla'is taken at different times from the ene- 
 mies of Engiand, (fj, the price of blood. 
 
 Among tiieso 1 viewed with strong emotions those 
 which were won by General Wolfe on the plains of Abra- 
 hau), in th-,- (iccisive battle which gave him victory in the 
 moment of d-'alh. 
 
 lit re also hanGf the tattered trophies of the san<iuinary 
 field of Bl(>)djeim : thev are six or seven in number; 
 now very mu^ h muliiated I:>y time, but still serving to ex- 
 cite many a heioic and melancholy emotion. 
 
 Willi th' St intcresfie.fj remnaiit-; of the dreadful conflict 
 at Uleuheim, one naturally associates the recollection of 
 
 ' lie lias visiicii all F.ii.rojjf, not to survey the suiii|>liii)ii-np";s 
 ofpaliu-ps, ii')i- lilt- =ii\tf'linoss of tc'tii|ilps ; not 1o in;ike acciiratf 
 nica'.iirfinr'rils of fi.r; remain^ (if ancient i^raiuledr, nor to form a 
 S(;ale of tli(; cu; ioTltic- of inodeni ;irt ; ikjI to coiloct meila!.-,. nor 
 to collate i)i;'jui--cri|)ts ; but to dive- into the cli| tii-^ of diin'.con-, 
 (O plunpre into tlie infection of iiosiiilals. to rtovey the mansions 
 of soiTow antl pain ; t'O tal^e ;';iia';e ai;J dirMen>ioiis of mi.-eiy, de- 
 jirrs'^lon iiiid ciMi'v'uijit ; io iTiiieniijec tiie foi-:oiten ; to adeiid to 
 the iie.d"''''"'! ; lo vi^it the t'oi>-.;ken ;. and to "onii'arc' ami collate 
 ilie di-!i-e-;si'- i)f all men in ail coiintries. Hi-- |)!ani-' oj'i!.'i,ial. an( 
 it is a- full oi'-enin; as it is of Imma.ni' y. It is a voyac' of phJ'nn 
 fh'-iqiu u cii'('U!:'i;;o.-i:;;>!iMii of'eharife ''
 
 IjC'i'.i. \SU. ili'l.f. \>i) . !> 
 
 ilii- ;\inl)ili<>u>. \;iiii. an I luMil,! i> I. wins, ;i;iii I'l lii> :ilii>- 
 tli'iii- Nruiir-^r. ;lic i)llk'' of \I,tr!ii"rM;i_;i. 
 
 \\ < aMiMi.i<ii 111 till' ijaili'is wiiii'li MM I iMimU lln" r\ir- 
 I iMi 1 if I 111 I i. 1111''. ami ti'iik a \ i- w i>l I'm- aiua/.in^ ^ir if line, 
 all] III lfn' imniiMl^r cits ill ullirli it jv sil;i,itii|. 1 f .imi 
 i> tc}0 Lf:i'at I'lir ili^tuirt <'i)i:ipri'lii-n>i.in at ,i -iii'.'li' \ ii w : i^ 
 is a \i oi M ' 
 
 'I if i>ii|- its 111(1-1 li. ,[;;. il\ s, . II iiMin ill'-- I !i \ ,1 .11. :.{, 
 till' r!:inr'i-\ ar.| I ; ^' Paiil'-, ini'ur '' iti !\ li. !iiu : -Liil- 
 _.ifi'-li:!! : < IiiMjis' !i : t in- i :\ . i- w :i li its in ;. ! is ; - ajl 
 ariuiiai. a CMiiii-i ,; \\ !' a" la -> i-l ip -a-i s, \\ \\,, c i il, i| i ,.. ifs 
 |i!i s.|;t .1 niii'- a"il '.I '! II j.i.'sjM' I !i r maiiv a !in!.iii_- : 
 s; a I's. rii'mlas. ,i!':l i u' i I s v. ii ii. .,:t n.i iii' a r. a 1. 1 i:i;i iiii 
 
 tvi) ' Ali 
 
 iWiT aiil W I't aill-' 
 
 III. ''l'. t! 
 
 a ii> . a. a, .^la ' I ! 
 ! > i;,. '. ai .'1 ' rn. : > I'.aili >''-. I ia- 'i ' 1 - . -1 
 K- 111 iin >.:< si'l . ,1.,,; till.- i' I I., :!-l'-a.| ami Hi '] .tc 
 nn ;';' m i . \s ill, ;i VI, ii,,!.- !. a i/mi a \ .n i,a|s i i.it i \ iiiiiij.' 
 riiiihli ^ . 
 
 I I 'a i . ! ., I'l' '^ , i !.;'"> ni a a ml' it sci' iiim:i i ii t !n' 
 
 lillsl' ' 1 I'l 1 a\ . IM . alsr I In- li lls< s l|i.!r |;i..sl ..t' till- 
 -':'-. I :- :\' : ' . \].'\\ i \<a . s, . ;i|, li'..- ,1 l>i' !l;l'. : ,! |-|'. 
 
 cai 1 1,1 '-s III I H , ,| i!,' Ill I .ii'i ali'- 
 
 i, ;. < I . : !' . I !i \ II 1. a;; J uiIhm (il n as w 'i, |i 
 
 ,!, .. ' ' . ii iM- an ia|iraraiirr ,.l' iniimti la s-. ;ii,>| \i i ,'1 
 ^:;: . -V Ml ! ai;'.!-. i;'. . wlijrii "'ms it ,i!l lin' aii' nl .i 
 
 M , / . :! i t'r' w IiisiMi ii' '..I'.l- I \ . 'I \i'.< is 
 
 s , ; ii'ii IiH' 'liaiH'. il ;ia' liisi ,:i. r nl .ilimit mif 
 li,;: I . ; w ' \ \. 'Ml It,. (i-itf.riH In til.- ti.ji. aliil is ,ri r\- 
 ,ir' r;;.'I, a :: i.aalu^! aaM |.'.i_. |. ' t in ilaiai. t' i . 
 
 1 1 \ I a I , . \ a aai a; ! I !' la t' I la W . i 1 . a i h i \'. 1 a - j '. r i a 
 \ I 1 SM 1m\. a \ ..!. i.\ a ^ ' t! ' ' ' . in a - ai " !: i ~' aa- ii
 
 2bl A JOL'llNAL OP tR.AVi:L3 IN 
 
 within a single yard cannot hear, such is the reverbera- 
 tion, that any one on the opposite sj;le. oiw IrLUuircd and 
 forty feet of)', will on la\ in':; his ear to the wall, hear every 
 word distinctly; .'is it' some one were spcidving in a loud 
 and audible whisper, and it is not easy to be persuaded 
 that some one is not concealed beidnd the walls, lor the 
 purj^.ose of imriosition. I comKI hardly bnnidi lliis impres- 
 sion liii l?:'. H and [ (bleed oiirsclves in opposite 
 
 point;; of ihe iial'ery, and iu;dly carried on a con\ersd- 
 ti-^n of soino sninnt-.'s, :>b|i,a;ob in v(>ry low vvliispci-s. 
 When the uoor of this 'rall.'.y is forcibly shut, it suui'.ds; to 
 a person oi; liie <ipp'"~'t!' si !e, like thumlcr. 
 
 Pi-r.r'/ers are saiil pubbcly in St. Paurs, three times every 
 dnv, and (hen any l)>d\^ liiay <,'o in v.ithout jiayinL^ a fee, 
 which is demanded on all othei- occasions. The iiole 
 chur<di is pnrc'lled out ipto depfirlments, for the sight of 
 each on-'of w'iirli the visiior pay> separattly. 
 
 'f'here is a librar\' in ibe church, but it is not very ex- 
 tensive. 
 
 The great bell Vvcisibs more than ehnen thousand 
 pounds. It is tolled only on occjision of the death ot One 
 of the royid faadly, or of tlie dean of ."^t. raubs, or the 
 bishoji of Loudon. 
 
 'I'la re is preserved in the chiirch a ])eautifid model of 
 tlie i)uiidini!' uhlrli Sir ('hiisiophcr Wren inteiio'ed lo have 
 eret t"d, fiu^ iic was not jierinittfjd to I'oUow Ids own jjjau 
 enliicJv.
 
 , N. I, \ Nil. li>;l I \ "Ml \MI -< ' 1 1, \M>. 
 
 \o. \\ LONDON. 
 
 .M,,n:...;. - W i.uil-;r:,l 
 
 1.-.. .-. -n t-.-i-. hi: 
 I" ni ! ll.i III .Miiii i 
 
 (. l.ria:.'. il..,!- 
 
 .!./!> 1 >. I !,:r.r i;;:^ l:: -.pu . 
 
 1 ' ' - 1 ; I ; ; a ; i ._ 1 1 1 i 1 . 1 I u 111 ! I ; > ; . : . ; . , I i . I '_ - 1 ' 
 :> lii- lliu.,;'!. ;u; I lii- ;' ii' ',i i.i ii:~ i 
 t ' tiii> ;i I m; I !ii'i;i ! ';, . "I, 1 , ! 
 
 Mi. \\. 
 
 I 
 
 iiii 
 
 w ^ ! Ill ., . !!::' I' I 
 \'. I i ' II 1 > I : ' 
 
 1. 1.1
 
 ^54 V JOURNAL 01' lllAVELS I^ 
 
 At jMr. Wests', it was certainly pardonable in nie lo 
 indulge a ])atriotic feeling Avliile conieniplating a native 
 American, who, by the mere force of talent and industry, 
 aided by the the most estimable social and moral qviali- 
 lies, had elevated himself to the highest eminence in his 
 art to disiingiiishcd rciyal favour, and to the most envia- 
 ble honour which rival artists could bestow;* an honour 
 Vv'hich was enjoyed by Sir Joshua Heynolds, whom Julin- 
 ::i)u j.iroiionnced '' the nioHt invuhicrabh; man of hi.s ag'c,''' 
 and to w Iioni Mr. West allbrds the fairest parallel in pri- 
 vate wuiili, professional eminence, and public favour. 
 
 Mr. West received me with much kindness, and con- 
 versed with the most engaging freedom. He seems to be 
 <"narosscd b}' his profession, and it is easy to see that the 
 ^tdfe of the fine arts makes a very conspicuous iigure in 
 al! Iiis estimates of national improvement. 
 
 fie spoke in the highest terms of Trumbull. '' His sor- 
 ;i(' of ( Gibraltar (said !ie^; vvas d(>ne in this room ; it is a 
 great production it is one of the great things of modern 
 times. Trumliull has fine talents for painting, and he 
 aciorns them by the most finislied maimers."' 
 
 \s 1 retired from this interview, 1 liuL^ered a while as I 
 was passiug through the callery, to glance at iis numerous 
 paintinss, prints, and statues. 
 
 What think you brother? Do not the^e [lai.Uers and 
 sculptors take rather too great li'ocrties . 
 
 \ (>od,or goddess, or deified Ikmo or heroine, without 
 juoilal veil, now, even in private houses, ol'ten meets iine 
 
 *Mi- Wit i- president of tlic Itoyal Acn(]<;tny of paiiitiiifr, stiilp- 
 t"n;, ;^i:. ii s'liilion pi'ohaljly inferior in Ijuuour only to llie prc-^i- 
 '4l';!(V (if'!;;; iloval Sucictv
 
 \u;l. Ill ill ill llli [i.ll I'lll! . 
 
 '1 il- ir U :i> , li;i!'' win .'i ; ; i!' iV'H-'i-".!! lii-inlvcl l!" 
 
 iiii;'M!i mi'-, i. :i> \' I uU' 'ii-.,i. 'ii> oi -:i', m ;'i!\ ih:U" uhii h 
 < ...,1 1: si iii.t.ii, ^;;\\ m;,!\ i:.i;!v'> Ipiniiv !,.; ' \. I : c.'ll- 
 t' li.j httiuii . u I i-TiN (T i; I'. :!.'!: !!' I'li.i^r .1 i\ - .':< im' 
 men-, ,111'! u Liii u < ii:i\ > i .i.;!!!".; ;:'; ii,:i v; ;. ;ti.' ji.i'r;;. i 
 .iiji! >ri]l|,i.>is ;i;,\ i;.,i .ilu ,i '. - h ; i il>- (A ' u . ill Irj ! !. 
 
 1 -.t'.]) , w ,! I !!..it ;i;i;utri s. vci.i | irdi'-. ^n ;., ;iiv ,; n, 1 iii,i: 
 iMi'i^l-. li,i\ . ,ii'i ;. - -nil.!! il,i;i;i t^ !.! ir.iii n ,: \ ^litlilnjn' 
 u l.irli. ,|, !.:!'.-::,(!!. i.r.':' --iniMl. nin-' '"' '"L'l'iiipl.iii'' 
 \\ I'M'iiM K -., \ . 
 
 \ s I. i l!;i- j'.'L:!! 1 ,i|i.i -.Ml;!'. '! . ill 1 in ii , .Ml'iilli - .iiui 
 [la'iiiliirj iiMiiii-. \\ ( ciiiii.ii (.iiji-i t 1. 1 ilii ,; ;i\ .iiiiii: i'u';i 
 -flvi > i,r . \. 1 \ aiil. iiliMiMi- ! iii.-ii! . ii.'i'T !i\ i:Mini-ri ,ii!, 
 :iii.| it i- jiiMM. ! th ': i;ii' >.|li;c,i^ w'l'i :; ''.:> \ -M'l!', -IiomIiI 
 li. Ii'i! Ih :..|. ii,' i:. w iiii'Mii th'- i;i'i ! \i ;;!i.':i ol llli -1 
 li_'lil I r.r; I 111! 1.' .Ml ' - \\ ill' ll \Kf \\ > .ii . 
 
 1 Wii iM i;m( |i,i-~ I'^i ;i Ilm'''!! i.ili. li'M. r(.lll\. ill'' i \lll- 
 l.!ii..i; 1 i \ .iiiiv . , M,- ;;, :.. ,,i \|.,r., ,,i i;, U;,;, ,. , ,,:, I . ! 
 I.I In I II. Ill III (/ -l.'.l'H -. ;iv w , 11 ,!n ;,.i ;.1 h, j^. Ii.l - < \ i I ^trin!. 
 Ill'' .i~ ;i iiii!' : III III- n it. \'. '1. I > //( M ' 7 [1 llli' - :ii i- t' > !> lin 
 "-;'' I.I In;., : "T VI. :i j' i: Ii' - I ii.i\ r ii!t' ;i li. ;i ",:. in t!ii-. 
 
 I ' ' M 1 1 1 r \ , ' . 1 1 1 ; r ' .11 ;;!.: ' - 1 1 1 \ r ; ! w i , , . i i i ; i . I 1 1 1 . ; ' I 
 
 .-''I'l'l"!- ii.i\ ' 'A iiliii'l !. .lii: ill.- ;i'l 1 "ii'i 1' rii,; I I '! \ \ lii' 
 IllH' :u K -,'. i(. ;i. '!- M'lin- |ii ;l \ i!. \ i:it!. ;; - I. -;ii I'l ' .' ii. . I- 
 !;<'^. \\ 111" !l jiiililir i.j.iiiii.ii u " ' ;l..il' 
 
 ,ili Ml !'.|i l!ii 1 l:.;i!i I" ill.- I'll i'l, ..: 1,1-1- . 
 
 I In -' lillr V ;,|, is,.\\ |,, !,.. [,,1111 I 11, ;!! ("1!.-. (i..!:- i.l 
 
 pi' I'ln'^ .ii-'i -I'li'"--. ;.n'! .) r- .! < i.l'iii ;,, : i |..i I'n i",:,- 
 ill!-. ..I I'll' ,';.. I it^.u n! :!. l,,)v l,r,,,; \\<. i'.,\\ii i!i. \',';i,,'. 
 kil'i.l' el in ''.':.- II cil- ,i!:.l -. '.it!. >^i ^. 'a i'', .ill ('n ii ':' i
 
 j.3o A J0!';;XAL of thavei.s in 
 
 ry of Kcman and (ii'eciaii lable, into tlic halls of the nobilir 
 t.y aiifl fjuntry of Kni'buu!. 
 
 I dined at my lodifiniis to-day, and just as I was finisliing 
 niv repast, a coach ?-toi'j>e(l at tlse door, and 1 discovered 
 
 thron',>h t!ie \vind;)\v Mv. T , a nei'i'lihour and old ac- 
 
 fiTiaintance of nii'.ie, at h.onie in Ainerica. One who I'.as 
 iwwr resided in a forc.ipi eountr}' can hardly estimate the 
 value of such, an Incitient. 
 
 I iiad hardly given him a seat before Toverwlielmed him 
 with ([I'.ei-tivins concerning my country and friends. 
 
 lie gave m.e the most pleasing of all answers, a jiacket 
 of letters, th.e first which ! have received in Knaland. 1 
 soon recognized the hands oi" several of my friends ; but 
 what shall I gay to you ! yours was not there; nor thai 
 of any of our family ; the rich present from my other 
 friends has however put me into so good humour, that I for- 
 give you for this time, but you nuist not presume too Hir 
 on my clemency, for, while 1 am every day writing to you. 
 T feel as if I had some claims to a return. 
 
 JMr. T bciPig an entire slianaer in London, I spent 
 
 the remainder of the afternoon in conducting him to dif- 
 ferent parts of the town, for a month's residence has made 
 it somewi'.at familiar to nse. 
 
 Tfli; l,KVi:illAN MISEIM. 
 
 June 20. ! have been with Iwo comjianions over lllack- 
 friar's fhidge, tt) see t/ic lj'rcr/(ni J\li/s-cuin. This justly 
 ((dehraied collection, wiiich is one ot ihe lirst in the world. 
 wa>or!i!inally foi'iued by Mr. af(er\vai'ds SirAshton Level 
 of Alkeringtou-! la!!, near :\h\ncliester. at an expense of 
 ('.")!;,()()() sU'i-liii'/. C'onseqnent pecuiiiarv embarrassment^ 
 nbhiied ifiin In dispose nfil !)\ a lotteiA of thii1\-s!\ llmr
 
 FN'. I \M). HMli.wn \NT) -.!; \Mi. 
 
 ,1, 1 Nc!vi '-. .T'l u nil"' tu ' iii\ -i-rjlit iiii-iis.iiii| sili; i. .|:ll', 
 . ; in- . i\ui. 'li' [ \ ii'iitimi - 111 tin \v ill I I I ill i\\ til'- I .: I ,1.- 
 '':, ti;iii'!-nr ^Il. I'.n ix'.!i->'ii. llii .*:'. i i-l (.,,'\ [wx. 
 >. i I. Ill tlii> w .i\ . t'lr ;i ( , .'ijili- III :: iiiip .1^, !h 1 ' .'!i !: , .; 1 1- 
 jii i' ;.'i < ii ui> T' ' '' iiiM^i iiMi. 
 
 t >ii ' I ii.ini i~ r'\ "ii'.! t.i liii- 111' 111 "I \ !' ( '.M.i.ii't < ..i', . 
 W !/rii i-. in ;i i ,'<.-' ij! > jM ' -' i \ t il li\ ,i ' "I 'i'' In ii i .T . ; : : : i - . 
 lii !---. 'iri i:- ! . -. o . . \\ i,i. ii }}' iiihl' ill i..> lli'r.! ':.i| 
 i ! - 1 \ . \ 
 
 'I (i.i . ' '. !!. 1 ,' III I .. liir-'v 111 tiiif |ii I -'I \ ,!i ' .'i. 
 
 I - ! liln'i.-.illv . ;i; I ,iir.i-.!. i;: .i 
 
 it'. ' . V, , : , : ' . '1 ' !. ! I \ . Ill llll^. til'' IM-, N ,|| , 
 
 j i' ' . , . ' , I 'ii' ' - :! !:::.i|!;.i:i M ' '\ .i I in ^!^ \ li'l,!. 
 
 1 i' - . ..iiiii ", .1 iiiMin; , I'- III iiii- 
 
 iM i-i >,;.,, .;.i I. ! ' . ! I i II iin'. 
 
 'I II. 1' i- .111 :: i.M i. ,f '. ' .A r.i\i'l\ .Ii'\ nt''.; Ill i 111' 'II'm;- 
 
 K< V -. N ' - .;i-'i- i '.-. : i ii I iiK' ( 1 1' I'.'i ii.i- 'ii li.i'. ill 
 II, 1 ..i ' rill -' ;i!i:!!i :!~ s , \ I \ I'll iir; ,i'i> in iip ir ;i. ; .ii- 
 .!',' '"I ! i; 'Mil' i : -' ' . s- .1 111 I'l I 'I il w !; ' .:'- 
 
 . .' il ilAl' .1 
 
 i\ 11 ; I J'' .1 1 1 1^1 il. - . 1 1 . ' ' ' 
 
 i\ ' ' '.I.'
 
 253 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IX 
 
 The sliaver has one of liis own sprcies seated in a chaii : 
 his b' ;u(l !at!iMed, and the razor jnst beginnine: to slide 
 over liis face. 
 
 The dsMitist liol'ls his patient by the chops, while he 
 strains the turnkey, and produces all the grimace and con- 
 tortion ofieat-res, which tooth-drawing can extort. 
 
 Crispin is jiushintr the awl and pointing the brislle to 
 the si)oe, and thus we have our rivals in form actu.dly 
 pin 1,1 (Meet, and emnlating human employments. No- 
 thing is wanting but Lord Monboddoe's aid to free them 
 from an appendage which this philosopher says our spe- 
 ci- s have been so fortunate as to drop, and they might 
 peijap/S asp-iireven to tlie wool sack. 
 
 1 he :jiinp;al room contains a collection of superb spe- 
 cimens; they are large and wonderfully brilliant. Amon? 
 them are specimens which once crowned the summits of 
 siil)-ni:uine moimtains, or shot in coral groves beneath the 
 wa\cs ol tlie ocean ; others selected from the treasures 
 which thi,' earth contains in her dark veins and caverns ; 
 crystal-, which in the exactness and finish of their lines 
 aiiil les, rival the skill of the mathejnatician, and col- 
 ours which in their inten^encss and beauty surpass the ef- 
 foits of art. 
 
 -Vs usual the crystals of quartz excelled every thing- 
 else in size ; there was a speciuHMi I'rom the Swiss Alps or 
 from Madagascar I am not certain which) as large as tlie 
 lliigh of a man of common size. Tiie native crystals of 
 luaiiv other substances were very perfect and beautihil. 
 and the specimens of branched coral were sinij-nlarly fuie. 
 'i'he ^p('cimens of branched coral are so fine, and the 
 i>a!iv (^ crystals of otiier substances are so })erfect and beau- 
 tiful, as almost to it^^'ifv the (lovtica! descriiitions of a'>-
 
 h\i.| \M). in'I.IAM) \M1 ^iMlI \M), ._ ,. 
 
 .' 1 I I 111 .111 _'|. 'Ill" ^ illld lOial '_'ll'\ ' ~. I I 111 'III 1^1 III , -I'll till 
 
 jil.M-wii' ![ .iiH'tlK'i' \ ivii til l!ii' 1,1 Mil III \liNi iiiii. nil' 
 till T' I'll,- |.' iM' it Un the jiiiM-:-!. ' 
 
 \> Hr. II .Mill I \vr|f l<li;i lillr_' illtii llic i'\\\. u[i 
 
 >i.ll \\,i\ 1" till' lllUI,l-l liMl>f, li'|HMlr.| s!iu\Si'|^ ili.iv. II- 
 mi'iil III!- jii.l tii-|H-> nl llli'Kii\,il I .Xrll.Ul'Ji". .Ill'l illiii.l 
 |i,t>ll A riiols\ -Ih'p. \\ I' jiailiiiil^ III' ^iiliu- nl lllN ^'uaK 
 daiiitii'^. aiil riiiiial llirai. likr ll.illriA. lii lici. iii> hi;i mi- 
 
 -Illi^t.Ullial. I lliM- >llii|)^ air \rl\ IHIIliri i Hi-- ill l.nlir.iUl 
 
 an. I \ii\ bin .ai\i'. \ |i.i^Ii\ ii'ii!\ li.i- n niilK In roim, 
 
 I ( 111 1 I.I \ iihiiil.ri s. ami uill iliiiNlir^N jiasr tin- Ihmi- 
 
 ii!i|- III' [iM'ji.ii ia,' l>iiiia|iai ti"^ ili^i it, \v liciu \ ri lir riiiii|Ui r-' 
 
 |-'.!l'.'l.tlli|. 
 
 \\ I' \M-lll till nil 'J il SI \ ri.ll a|MHillillIv 111 llir |lliri,|-lllills(^j 
 
 vsiii'ii' art' Ii.iiis.ii'liit tiir must iiiniiiriitiias ci iiirrriiN ui th.' 
 ( iiiniin'ri'i.il wmlii. aaii svlnii- i^ i\liiliiti il tiir nIii'J'iI.u 
 ^pi'rt.uli- 111 a tiMiiiii'j CHiiiiiaiiN s\\:i\ii|.j tliiMi|.tri' i>i' .1 
 ' nat iiiiiiin-. ami ilii iiliiii! mi tin' l.iii nl Xvi.iiir jiriiti r>. 
 
 \'i' 1-1- -nil . Ill; I' i; n I'l til- ( il;\,l i,i\.'-,.n i;i 
 
 >. \\ -^ . ' L .1 .|ii ir',- I '. I I. . 'i]i II' .1, il I .|- -:ir|..i--iii.- in ~i/r lii^ 
 ,,'i,- in. :,'l.iiiril HI '!;.-'iM 'I :i.il i 1 1- -. til . . ! ' _v I'.- - it.- , .j <],, 
 \ .illiii- In 11. Niii.ii.il ( ..i.\inii.iii. li'ii 11: 1 il' Tn i:i h i;i'\ i.ln 
 ti.iii. i- jini'. I .:_N III.' I.I] /f-' l,i:"'.\ n 1 1 ,\ . ;. I,. .1 .'..tiI ri-lil I:;iii 
 (lir.i |,..'i!,.!- 111'! '.v . .I'i.iX r III r 1. I I ill .il ,1,11 ii r 
 
 \- : . Ml. I...n.|.iii ( I '.ill I i>. III.' |.ii'.lir ..ii. - v. > r. in l'-"'i ,i'l. 
 rim- l..i'h in .'-'. Ill ^iml -wiin. 1.1 r!i ,1 ..I f..l (.;.!,,,.>:.:, n.i i, . .v 
 ..,11 -.M.,,. y,.,l - i|.-ii..i'. .1 ,n lii.^ M'l" iini i.| \ .,].' ( -.'i.' . 
 
 -Ill, .' II,. ;nli'ii...ii ..I ll.r I. -.a ( I'.iii, ..I :;.. I.r, \||- (,;,". lil,. 
 > . 'il .' Ml ill r l; :, ;, Mil rii|.|. t!.. .,',.,',.' r.-'ii !i iv I , .' -.,'..,-,, 
 , \ .
 
 2 Go A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IX 
 
 Xo. XXL I.OXDON. 
 
 ,\nolher visit to "Westminster Abbey Toiiib of Henry V. fcc 
 'l^'estminster Hall Lord Ellenboroiigh l^ord Eldon Sir 
 James Mansfield Costume and dignity oi" the Courts A bal- 
 loon To be (ranst'ormed into a teniple Vneedntc Tower 
 Hill Memorable for state executions Ku.r I'air Jews 
 Cioihes" shop- Antlo-A^iiatics ai:d Af.-icans Tiieir condition 
 aiid treatment in E!;;;laiul Slavery unkr.own iji England. 
 
 V\i:STMI.NSTER ABUEV. 
 
 Ji/ne 21. 1 spent a little while this iiioniiniT; with 
 a iViend, in Westminster Abbey, It w;is the hour oj 
 niorniiijr service, and the reliijious offirers of the church 
 were present in iheir appro[)ri;ite rob^es ; a nuniL)er of !)oys, 
 dressed in white were clh'uiliny: to the orL'an. which by its 
 deep niaieslic tones, achled to those, impressions of awe, 
 whicii it is impossibde that a strangcn" sliould not feel, on 
 cnterino- this venerable \i)l5(?y.* 
 
 It is in vain th.af the moralist tells me royal ashes are no 
 he: tor than mine will be, and that ])oets, nobles, king's, 
 and heroes are bat common ckist. Still, 1 feel an elevat(,'d 
 
 ! say tlie ,"/./c.s of llie or'j:n') added to the impres'^ions ofawe ; 
 iiol so the bo; s, and tlie ecclesiastics, \\ 'no were performinsr, uliai 
 \ behc've; it i- not iiiicharitable to call a solemn I'arce ; it is ratlier 
 painful tii-iji otherwise; to see tliis kind of pre.-ci'ibed wor-liip per- 
 foiined in W e-l niiioie r Alibe-y, St. Paul's, and olher similar [i!a- 
 res 1)11 srciilc,- i!iii/;;. It i^; ^one r.viM- (like any other !a,-k or les-on 
 ot ueiiuc'iit rci iii'iem-Cy by a. doz'jn. or twenty people uilhin tln- 
 f'lanrel- wiiieii eirciipie- bu! a -pe'-k in these vast houses, whde 
 (rM-.\(is c.l loit^!:;''rs arc i.lrollin:^- about, in all olliCi pai't'^ of the 
 it'iiidin . h.okiuj; at (he s'atues, and reckless of the wor-hi]i as 
 *':'jrr v. ':) oeiv)rui iC
 
 ,. , , . w ';. ,: I s i\ !,. iii\ -I l: !iiii -!i- :! . I r, 1 .Jr 
 II ., - i:;i I |tui\ N "I 1,11^ i,inii : !i' If .;''i llii> ii,,i: In' 
 
 - t Jii' I II i .ll.-.ilii ill. .:ii(i ll^ !!. In . ; n\ ,u \ : !:iii. ^1 ;i v 
 
 I I :--!ii; \ 1 ll!^ M|i. \\ llll [H)V\ 1 1 Ilil >!-v,H|.|! mil, I !! 
 . Ill i:ill-ll |iM|v ili.l.i. ( >|| Ml!,' -Iiif. liic ll|(illi.lllM:t ' 
 \> \\t"{\ l;iU '. >;i \'-i:ll IMlpK---,' U-- 111' Itli' IH'li!'- cl.i::!:' 
 
 \v 1.:':: -' u '' < . iiid i !i ; . ., i ; i h. ^ !; :. ;,' ^. li r, . . m I'u r ' 
 
 1 ' ^ \ . I. . .:!,> |H.A I ! !,.,:, I , ,,., - [' i ,u:i . ;..'ll llir 1 .,ii 
 
 . 'I "I I i.ii.' . * >, ,|- li... ; , 'i ,;. , .,-,,, ^. ; ! []:, 
 -'III rl w 111. ii h.- Ii..!c. ,111, i ;l;i' 
 iiM'iii'M ,i!m- ii.iii I,' .,| ' .in, , 111 1. 
 
 'i iM- i- iiii' t i li, :- Ml 1,1 ,,:!. Ill il!:..,:i. ' ,i(i . . - 
 
 '.'\-. \v:i;r!i I, .', , !, ;.i, ' 
 
 ' ii' :i 1 li;-r I,, ,u.: II.- I .,1 J.-ii 1.^,,.. '^ . , : 1 , , ., I, : 
 .i '- il n, . : ,;. ;. I. I,. !i- \:.^^ IM, - I, , i.i.,.,:- . . '^ . 
 ' ' ^ .1. < 'ii l!ir li:ll,i| , ! II, \.,. 
 
 liiii. - I M .,i,i' 1,;, ir i.iil , ;.i , I. ,,ii.l -,|, I! ,11, , i; , i , \ , 
 ill'iu i-,i t.i lii-i ,ili t ii!;iii-|.i~ i: ;i;ii,. I ;: ;, i i|i-. ' 'I';, i , i'
 
 2G2 A JOPKNAL OP TKAVELS IN 
 
 no object that I iiave seen in England of which I am ;o 
 desirous to give you a correct impression as of Westmin- 
 ster Abbey, nor is there any task of the kind to wliich 1 
 find myself so inadequate. 
 
 WESTMINSTER HALL. 
 
 From tlie Al)bey M"e went across the street into West- 
 jninster Hali to see some of the I'wwg oraches of the law. 
 VV'liile we were at this great fountain head not only of 
 English but of American jurisprudence,! often thought of 
 you, my dear brother, and wished that you could have 
 been with me to gratify that strong professional curiosit}', 
 which every lawyer must feel to see Westminster Hall, 
 an'J its courts of justice. Although the books of reports, 
 wliich have now i)ecomc so numerous and copious, afford 
 you a ijetier idea of wtiat is done here than can be ob- 
 tained frou! a U'w sl/ort \isits, it is still some gratification 
 to behold the jjlace and the men. In the Court of King's 
 
 anf] iliily, ]u>vv('\(>r iiitei-psfiiig the recolleittions wliicli llicy 
 awakrii, uiid !)0'v< ever sublime th(! thoughts and feelings which 
 they may call f'oiih, give almosl a niehmcholy sense of earthly in- 
 stahilily, and foi'ce upon us a iininiliating contrast between elder 
 ijnd latlei-tiincs. But England in (he full glory ofiierarts and 
 arms, in tiie |)ie!iiUide of her strength and the exu!)erance of her 
 wealth, in licr free goveriMiienl and [)ure failh, just laws and un- 
 corrapted manner^, pnljlic prosperity and private hiipplness , 
 England in each and all of these; resi)ect';, |)re>entsati obje(-t {. 
 to be paralleled in this or other countries iui object which tills 
 Avilh a'^tonishmenl (iie luiderstanding mind, and Avliich tiie ])liilo- 
 soplier and the Christian may contemplate not only \\ ith compla- 
 cency, but w ith exultation, with the deepe>t gratitude to the Al- 
 rnigiity givci' of ail good, and tiie most iiimating hopes fur the 
 iurtiicr pro^pe.'ils ;',r!d j)rogress of maii'viiiJ.
 
 I \ . - r. \ M> . 1 1 1 ' 1 ! \ N 1 1 \ M > -J- 1 1 I 1 \ M I . 
 
 .')< 
 
 iMiirh I .lilt i r.llfiilitiiituL'li u .i> 'jl\ 111^ III i:i:irr: ill a CI II N)-; 
 hi-- iiMiini'i' i> |irrN[)i("iuiu^. siuijili'. dW'l iiii'i^ii ut lu.ui,-. 
 
 Till' liliiji'N in tlllN COIIII Wiiir lllii>r \\:\\ ll'iwiil;; ^^i_^, 
 uliirii \\r wi- 111 t!n'ir poiti liiv: the rli. .t i^ latli-r luli- 
 I <'>:> tliiiii xilcini). rsj,,'! i.iiK wlii'ii tin- I.ht ;> >Ui.'l! ,ti' ! 
 
 :Mii;iiiti\ I'. 
 
 \rr .V. ill,, li:,!!. i^ I'll' ('rii:it ..l' ( '..iiif, |-\ . \\".'-;t\\ 
 ;lii' r!i,nn' I'll I.ni'l l.Mi .1. !!' ;^ ! 111. II. ! a m!)!'' aji- 
 ji. MMMiT. ,iii,l. i;' h!- i-.iiiii!ii;:i:iri' \>i- a tin. ri.;i-\ ni iii< 
 
 111 . '. Will ill's, r\i< hi- "li \atr i vl,(|; .;i. |;i j.'s |i.|s,,il 
 
 I.; :.' i;t>, ii.'!vr,.ii nil'ki' .In i_'r r.!i-\\o|iii n| ('.,u- 
 ii 'ii-i.r. 
 
 ^ir .l,i:;l. s M,iii-,1. vi is ;!l-- <-\r.' i .Ul.lir ..! llir (-(MIM ,,] 
 i-M.iiiiii.:i j,',; as. 'I'lh' I'nsiuiii' I'i tills cniiit Is a jiaipii' 
 
 sil'^ im'ii- wilii ,1 wli ! WiL. cliisc riirliij, iinl !;'>\\ili'_' 
 i<\ '! \:;r siid.iidr; s. 
 
 1 iiiv, \|sjl,,| W . s;.|,i|!sl, r li.iil ;i li'l'lliiM n! tlllH'-. 
 .\.,;i ll|i' liiiiii' 111 II' .a-|ii-j las!^ini'. (nM's, tiailuvv. ci 
 
 .!' iiri'i r '1 lii' ir .i'-, 'n/aisii.-,! ,i.;\ . i.-.,ii s. l.;it 1 j; im 
 ,-a !v II s, 1 i,,iii|;ii;.- .1 , r,, !i,. |)ii-.i at w ii. a lln'V \\ < n 
 - 1 ''>ai . .; a' 11 r.i' I la : : ' i aa\ rhiiaii I'l iii iii iii t'r si 
 I . .arts. I ins .i; . :: ; ' i r iw 'N I u ' t i I t ,v \ i i s. \i li,i. : , .. 
 '. I la i\ la ''.\ , w ' ir lii > \ a ' _ a In' i. 'j. i\s i|s. .ua; vv i _ - riil In i a a. I 
 I .' w ,iiai . I. \ lii.-s.. .aili ij|. u air '.'i iiimmI! '. I'.a I i .. " ; 
 :'. till''. !;,,. r. in. a .a's an ,i: .j h-.i i laa.- M.airli i ' . ' 's 
 a ". ,a I 1 n.ii .1-; ^^ nil t'i> ^i .!- am ill > -. In' i- ' ' - ' ' 
 \\ . aaa-!. I' ait ai s, i-:i: ,] , n ,iai ; m a la r. Ml . ' ' 1 
 
 III 1 s ; I ; 1 1 i I . s s 1 1 1 : i 1 1 . 1 1 1 1 1 1 a r a - . \\ 1 1 1 1 i i . a 1 1 1 1 ... . a a : , - 
 t' . : '. : ' a I'a l': r. .iiits .nai lla ii m!.' it-. \\ liana 1 ! ,i\ - 
 ia aal sjMTi,il..|s. 
 
 \ a:- la _ Ml- ; r.i '. r- tii' a p.ii, I .; ..it mu. i.; ilia n la-. 
 
 /;. .-'. |- as a. li ..its .a ;!i, n' |.|. m,..- a i| a, -
 
 2()4 A JOIRWI. OP TRAVKLS IX 
 
 elude punniiifT, for. IJ/.s qesitleniHU has ;i brot'ricr, also u 
 lawyer, whom, from his h* ing both younger and inferior, 
 they call second Bc-^t. 
 
 There is a yreal deal of diirnity in these courts of jus- 
 lice. No indecorum of niaiiners is permitted, and the law- 
 yers are, as ihey ou-dii every where to be, so much under 
 t!ie infhience and coi^trol of the courts, that they dare not 
 irille, but always arlliere strictly to the point. 
 
 Westminster Hall is said to be the largest room in Eu- 
 roijc, V. hose roof is un.supj)orled by pillars ; it is a vast 
 art a of two huudird and seventy five feet in leuath by 
 soxenly iiveiii freachh, wiihout divisions, benches, or any 
 obUriiCtioii wlialever. Over heafi, the frame work wh.icli 
 supports the roof in the form of wliat is called geometry 
 work, is in fidl view. It is of Knglish oak, and seems |ier- 
 fi ctly untb.'cayed. Th.e hall was orijfinally built i)y \\"il- 
 him Ituf'is, vv'as re-en;cted by Richard il, and is said ^o 
 \v,\\Q been us'vl liy llia.t irionarch, lor a diniuir room for the 
 iip.inense retinue, \\hi<di d;ew their subsistence iVom his 
 roval IcM'.iViy, or r;it;i:,.'r pr(!fusion. \ou\vilI romendjtM', 
 lln:ia' mentions t hilt tea tiini; vand pcrso'is Inia^' ab'iiit his 
 eonrt aiid v.^tc Wd iVon; liis table. V,'est!uin--ter Hall is 
 now mere!\ a [r(;:i)i'iiar!c for the hnvyrs and th.eir suit- 
 ors, and i/e;;;': ;'!' V for a'l pers.in< u:io ;ire alt' ndi.i:^ iijM'ri 
 tlie c'.'urls of law, or liiion j);oiia!ue'.it. Ir is usual to see 
 'jr''ut )e!ii!i)-::rs u:d'.;;i . ni) Jiiid down throuLih tliis hall, 
 and irid:;''.'':';?: iVv'-is' in cinvcrsaiion. The juciicial and 
 (ii'bl; !;>;" UM(iie;-j iiiii-.l th^'h' sesNious ronticiasusly (o ih'' 
 h.;i' iMit ;! t in it ; :-ti!! voa p;H> tlu-ouLrh il to ai-iiv at 
 tneai. ' \.;- t"<:iinpK'. enlei b; :' th;' hall, you turn to ihr- 
 f-^vl't a,'-' :!-!'!>i'd ;i '; ,v sf;'i:-, ih^' court i >j' rxchcuuer. aiai 
 -ti'iut !;:d! ^Aav \io en t'le ri'jht. \(iu 'oni', t" the Ciu^aa'?'
 
 I. \ . \M). :!! I \^ I) \M) "-I ! I I AM) 
 
 (,l^ : i<< I'luii til.' (!i..,i( .1 \'. _\ ,111 u i,'iiti- iii!.ii..::i t!:i 
 
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 tr\, ;iM'i !hl ,1 ll.jiil i-\ -I.iii~. ,;iM Mill l<i !;! irjnl: l.ri ih- 
 
 ll'.il^r ol 1 .IlilliMi-. (Mill t,' tin i,:i, ,.ii,l ill 1,1, 1 \i,ll Iii.ik, 
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 t.i;iii'ii!illll''!.l'i'liii' \,i,hi'.^ji;i!l!, '',.-: \[,i \ ; i I,, 
 -.ill (1 ililirii lit ^1\'- - u: :il' liiti'itM; 1 : . <:> Kill :,.. ^ 
 
 v,i lii-jii. ,.i.;l:':'! :;.' i'l -i/1'. ;i,i,i -- : , ; '\ j.l.i. , .'. ,11 
 riillirc I Mllii!'' 1 i.il:' I'-l)' M !. li. '! v^ ! \> '; i^;.' i , :i. < - 
 il,i.l>,'- .iM'i ; M'T lij iji: M., ' -, '. / . t M"r il.,:;, '- 
 
 111.:-. .!> it '\ il'i'. 1,1^1' > 1 ,- . .,,!-:- ' > l:' ! il !- ,,.: 
 
 .,;)jii',ii,iii, , 1 I I,; ,, : 1 --. r.ii. ' ',, .;,.( i .' :!:. -r- ;: \ . 
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 s ; ; il ! 1 , - i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 . 
 \ ' I . 1.
 
 266 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 Indeed it would be a painful thing to any stranger, visit- 
 ing England, not to see Westminster Ilall, The great 
 State trials have been held in it for centuries. The kings 
 anciently dispensed justice here in person : Charles I. was 
 tried and condemned to death in this room ; here was held 
 ti)e famous trial of Warren Hastings ; ami now whenever 
 A peer is tried, it is fitteil up with carpets, scats, &c.- 
 Within the walls of fvw buildings, it is presumed, have so 
 zuany memoral)le things been said and done. 
 
 A BALLOON. 
 
 i)n my way home from Westminster Hall, I stopped 
 at the Pantheon, to view a magnificent balloon which is 
 ;-iow getting ready tliere. Lunardi, a well known a-ro- 
 naut, is to ascend in it, with a party of a tlozen ladies and 
 gentlemen. They pay a high premium for the privilege 
 <>f breatliinii" among the clouds, and tlie chance of being 
 killed [)hilosophically. This ijalloon is ornamented, in a 
 very expensi\e style, an 1 vvi'l probably cost enough to 
 buy the iinest equipage in Kuro})e ; minds of alessambi- 
 I'ious cast would perhaps pr( fer the wheels and horses on 
 the tirountl.to variiished siik, as-d inilammable gas, among 
 the wlihluinds o\ lieavesi. This party are even more 
 umbitlous than a'ronants usually are : for t!i<'y are uul 
 conieiUed with building castles in liie air. tb.ey must ev('n 
 raise u (irecian teuiple there, as if by nia<2ic ; for, it is a 
 jjart of the scheme of tills l)allnon t'lat, after it has ascc ..(- 
 ed to a certain height, a fesioon of curti'ins which has 
 been susj)(Midetl all around it, \a ill suddenly unfold and 
 lianij in such a maimer as to hide tlie lialloon com))letely, 
 and to re|)r(;seiU a (Jrin-ii^n tcmpb' vvi'h i';l its porticoes 
 :nid rohmii!--.
 
 I v- !. SNil. !! 'M \Ni< '. Nil - : '. M'. . , 
 
 I II'' 'Mr Ml lliiv ii illiioii > ;i rill ,!;!; u'. ;| '.'i <[. lull, -p 
 .v.iii.i /.>/.."ii I 1> _m: t <'i!i'.i -. - I'iiri (i ii; ;ii' .1 |'i !< ^ l>\ ,i. 
 II "1 I i:t _ , \. !iii"!i 1 1 1^-' - I ii; ' !: :.i !li> ir I > -i -. .' i..l i- i; - : . 
 >iijji>i'i ; 1 ill, 'mm ii '-t>. liitii'- lu'i-':!'' In .t i^'i-. m 
 win I ii ;- ,1 l"Mr !ii il i|i- i^ iulu < I'livi .i :,I j'l' - ''' i' 
 ;i ' -!':i.'':i;-. j.ii.li.-. , .il|.';ii !:;s|i Kill h!-. ,;ll i o'ln,- llli. 
 ;! < s,ii \ i' i; I il.' \ , i\ ,i_'c. 'I III I ,ii- \\ ,ii il" ^'i^; ! 1 .ji .i ,,- 
 . - i .i \i\ a 111 !-w";k : < i.iM> |i.i^ii;_' "M i iIi- n..:! i'. ,' 
 '-{'., .1 '.. :': III .;:: \i\. \ r.w in ^i ,:. :i;lic'r 1- i:\i . 
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 w : 1 ; 1 1 , : ' . , 
 'p ' I ' IP ti'' i I . 'Ill I IP I .'
 
 :268 A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS IN 
 
 iion-descript, and were at first too mu' h terrified to ap- 
 proach it; at length, howi^ver, gdtherin^' courafjc, they be- 
 gan to examine, and fmdiiia' it to be a frreat bag partly 
 :oilapsed, they wisely conclu Jed that it ninst be again 
 blown up, in order that they might enter to examine its in- 
 terior. Aocordliigly, taking it iiito a house, by vigorous 
 working of large bellows fixed in its mouth, they succeed- 
 .'d in swelling tl;e srreat bnbiile to its former dimensions ; 
 i.;ut ti'! iiidrc cen gas whicii had been left in the balloon, 
 was now rendered higldy explosive, by the mixture of 
 ii> conimoii air, w'iich they had blown in. and it needed 
 r.oihiri.'' but an i-.'nited i)ody to touch it nif. Accordingly 
 ilie o\er curiou-;, iiiit not over i)hilosopincal countrymen, 
 depiUed one of iheir nuntber to enter with a lichtcd can- 
 ile, to sec v.ii-it was v. iihin. No sooner had the ill-fated 
 messenger app'lied his candle to t!ie door of this dark cav- 
 iiv, filled with gloomy fiends of which he was little aw;u'e, 
 liiau tlie whohi blew \\\) with a loud explosion, throw tlse 
 jstonnded spectatcu's f.at upon the tioor, and shattered the 
 ::;'ss v.in lows of the house to atoms ; but hap])ily the 
 il'ii'.nlity ui" '^Ms remaining in the balloon was so small, ihat 
 i;(j liie wa:- lost. 
 
 J'.ar'v in the n volution the Freiich are said to liavc gai)i- 
 I'd a gre;it isattle in Flanders, by recoimoitering the ene- 
 ev's position, !rom a balloon, and subsetjutmtly they insti- 
 ;;ited an aeronautic academy: an anchonnl balloon was 
 Kept constantly on ilight. aiid a (.'oloncl. with a select 
 i-orj):-. of vonna men, was employed in pi'actising in th<'sc 
 vw ;. ivd i-icSie-^.
 
 ; \ ; SMI, II' ! I \M> WD -^ > 1 i V Mi. Ji .i 
 
 low 1.!; nil. I. 
 
 .t.nn : '. 1 t.iii'^ a w -Ik t hi- iii. >! ni:i ; t. . 'l', .w m-I li '!, 
 \\\i\i ii i^ -iiu-ili-'i 111 ar till' 'I (i\u r \\^< !i. Il i-; ip'i ni:^ ii 
 
 < I I il ( III .i:''ll'' . !i 1 1 U li;'- i ircil 1 111, i I III! \ i! \ (' Ml x; .11 ! ;- .1 1 - 
 111 l.lljll-ll lii-|.ir\. :i- tlir p!,!!-!' wlplr mil' li l!,.li!'- I.;,.',i 
 li,i^ 'ii'i'ii vj,|!t. I, lull r i!p- Ii.iipI nl I'li'- I \i rill 11 iP' 1'. I 1; 
 I'.Mli'il i;--i \. l':a- !a\ i,i|iiir ,i| (^t'ici ii I .l^/ iImi'i. I .'. ,; 
 l!ii-v, i|. I .,ii 1 I .i.\ .;. \iiii I'ln'cv ;i. ;;ii.i liii' _,<,[! >:i W il- 
 'i am \\ all i- r. I !>.' a--' i In- .il tiir ria I'li.'N I'T 111- r.aial' \ 
 ; ;ai';-' tiir t\ laiaA it I' ^i. aiM I'lr !a M. \- ]'\ 'C- I'r In \ -a 
 .ail" I \ ''.' laaa :'a. ir ,a , i:],, r . a-; ' a , i a-la , | ; -i, -. \i. !i"-' 
 h!. 1. i i. ' . ' . ...,;; 1 11 -a~. < iiiiaa.-.i 1 , , : |i,;r 
 
 I.. I'l I. .Mt 
 
 laili .,, , . laa , , - 
 111 - \. 1 !! lllr la-t 
 
 \ 1 1 1 I a 1 - t a 
 
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 la ill ! \^ nil 
 lip- T'^v.-r 
 
 |i ir; a I : II .a- i ^ \\ .ai a ' , '. ^ ' - i , , a < i ' 
 w.''' f 111 \\ I -I 111.-;- r ,1 a- ir.a'. !> Ill i: i^ ', ', r,' ']. ,; i , 
 1 " - * \ 1 : , . I ; I a i I i 1 a , . a i - . w ' ! i , , , a a . : . , a 1 a 1 
 a. a- 1 i lai'a a a I w . >> i ii \ i ij i 'a- * \ 1 1 -' | " i-'aa. i i. I' 
 
 il : \ 1 1 la -' ;i !' > 1 ' a ' via !. , /, 
 
 I'l" ii'Ma'a ; ataa I lai -!. -aaa'.' . . i, ,,. v , i i 
 
 1' I'l 111 :!i li MM'. \\' w. iaall\' I' I . i-. : a- i \\ .:]: '.'.. 
 
 ^' '1 111^ I la , II : i" I vl.i':- I'll .1 , ; : a ,.
 
 .270 .'^ .lu( JiNAL OF Tf.AVEl.S LS 
 
 Spotless f.j?ii'its ol' those whom they liavc coiisigiiod to an 
 iufafnoiis death. 
 
 \\ ho can think whhout inuignation of Ann Boleyn. tfie 
 ihnocent victhn of royal jealousy and licentiousness ; of 
 Sir Tl'.omas Tilore, th.e just and wise, yieldinL^ his life to 
 the same ^jlooniy tyrant ; of Sir Walter Raleigh, the orna- 
 ment of his age ; and of the Earl of Stafford, uliose only 
 Clime was his high-minded loyalty bolli of tlu'se sacrifi- 
 ced to popular resentment ; and more than ail, of Sir Wil- 
 liam Wallace, arrayed in all the splendor of heroic chival- 
 ry and devoted patriotism, the W^ashington of his age and 
 country !)ut boning to the cruel policy of an able but 
 vvickcd monarch. 
 
 RAG FAIR. 
 
 ./,'.'??c ^ 1. As I was going to the London Dock, this 
 cvi'iiiug. with some companions, we passed throisgh a great 
 nowi! of dirty ragged peoj)le, to the number of some hun- 
 circtis. Tiicy appfNued to be very busy in displaying and 
 ^xamining old clothes which they were pulling out from 
 i>n';rs in which thry were contained. Ti;is, I was inlbrm- 
 f ;1. is rcis f\i>r. it is held here every evening for the sale 
 of old cloihcs which, are collected all over London, prin- 
 cip.ally by .Jews, who sro -'bont u'ith ba.-rs on \h<Av shoul- 
 ders. cvyiii'T, witli p peculiar]}- harsh guttural sound, clotiia-', 
 c!/}tl'C!u f'-'/'' c/o.'/' f'u'. \o\i will meet them in every street 
 i'.ud aliev in London, anci at evening tiicy repair to AVap- 
 siHiL', wlicrc a. grand di-|i!ay is made of every species of 
 yr>p;nf'l in every st;ige of decay. SMmrtimes they aie in 
 Jattrrs. and at ot'ier times merdy soiled. Here jieople of 
 ik^ 'ov/cr v.ivk^ iiiiiy muke a sele<tion which is to th':in
 
 I S' I WD. iMii.AM* \n;) >..m;.\m). ', 1 
 
 11 all \i'l\ (l^i'l'il. a;i;i a \l'tV ("\'-u|il! 111 i\ .ii'c K IlilU>'-'t 
 ill ill-' r:i^!-o!l :ii;i : \ "i tin I ., mi, ion < , i.k ! . -. 
 
 I iii^ 1-^ ti)il\ Miv iii>l.ii)''i' ol a jr, .; -\Mi'ni(>l similar 
 II an>ai'ti>ii;>. 'I Iptc ,;ii' N.Mp- in i \i i\ j ,iii ni I.m.,,;m;i, 
 u Ih-n- ,1 niafi iii.iv ;u! ni^ii iii.1,-1 ii \^ i' ii ;!:i- ni"-i i.ii,M.M .nt 
 i! till. V <.\ .irr-- iM a I. 'A -iiilliii.'- : IT i;i-l.'nc.', tii' 1. ii.- 
 irni'ir'' i- ni li. !,,( ,ii;/| ~.\\.>r -;<irrv. w !r II- til:--" ,ii lid-'^ ai.^ 
 "!! "I -'I'-li i-.i.|.- u.-i-ivii! n>iiti> ai'-i oi' .nrli inl' i Mr in .;- 
 i)i!~.lii I i;.'!' iiri"" l< u \\\\'> ra'!::.i! li:i\.a.: ! .-vt anuai:' 
 i-'M ii 1 1' ' - \v iiirii ai'- SI r.in.i l| i:!,l. lin-ii i- pi"lia'i;v 
 I; ' ji! 11- - m tia- \.iil 1 wii'iT ill .'|i!<- (i| all ri'i.-iiliMiis iaa\ 
 ' 'i:il!l tia- 11- I il raill-Iaia'' s -n la f la'i \ a-- in I aUaicIl. 
 
 A" in >-! \ ! I( - \\n \i i;i< \\- 
 
 I'l. ni -'a- ! ' 
 in J in lii-^ 1 . 
 
 1 . , 1 r. 1 1 a ! ; 1 1 - 
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 - ( iniani- I 1 1 ..:-'i 
 
 .1 !' u 
 
 \ na I iraii "'i'| ' 
 
 I , : 1 1 \\ .i,\ - ' '. I ! . i I 1 ; . . . - 
 .:. I 'a " ". ' ." \ a : ' 1. ;i -ai 
 ... . [ ....y all tia^ 
 
 a' .:< I - an I ' ; l.i-i -...'i r nii ;.! i -. 
 .in< i ari- "I la .a :>; n- aa - ,, an 'i t -i ' a ' .a l\i . . i ,, a '. aii . 
 h atari's aiiri !-.. I na aii.ai t; ,- 
 
 i ill- lart lias !i. , I a.. . ' i Jia \ '. . a .. i. \ i w .! 1 < a- 
 
 1 . 1 n a 1 '. \ 1 11 ' I ; a . ''-,:, I . , ' . a ,;-'.',. a ' - 
 
 v a 1 , I - 1 - - . \
 
 2l2 A JOURNAL OF TKAVJl'L? IN 
 
 condition much superior to that of their countrymen any- 
 where else. A black footman is considered as a gseai ac- 
 quisition, and consequently, negro sei'vants are souglit tor 
 and caressed. An ill dressed or starving negro is ne-\er 
 seen in England, and in some instances even alliances are 
 formed between them and white girls of tlie lower orders 
 of society. A few days since, 1 met in O.vfoi'd-stieet a 
 well dressed v/Iiite girl, wlio was of a ruddy co!nj)lcxion, 
 and even handsome, walking arm in ai-ni, and conversing 
 \ery sociably, with a negro man, who was as well dressed 
 as she, ami so black that his skin had a kind of ebony lus- 
 tre. .\s there are no slaves in England, perhaps the En- 
 glish ha\e net Icarred to regard negroes as a degraded 
 class of Tiien, as we do in the Enited Stales, where we 
 have ne\er seen tlieni in any other condition. 
 
 It is true, that in our eastern and middle states, and in 
 all north of the river O'lio, tiiere ai'C few or no slaves, 
 a.nd the emancipated i){acks, in many instances, rise to the 
 !>esHes&ion of property', and of some personal respectabil- 
 ity, but probably, it wi'l never be possible to blend them 
 by jnterinarriagc with tlie whites. After all that we say, 
 and with much truth, of the superiority of our country 
 over otiiers in civil liberty, it is a foul dishonour, it is a 
 crying inituiiiy, it is a most glaring inconsistency, that we 
 tolerate slavery. Other nations throw back into our laces 
 this dreadful oppro!)r!un!, to which we must submit, in the 
 silence of conscious guilt and disgrace : while England, 
 der ply guilty, in Iniving first introduced slavery among us 
 wheii we were \vr color.ies in still snstainintr it in the 
 West E-i(li(-s, and in having so long sustained the slave 
 trade, which vlie has at last prohibited formerly o()pres- 
 vw In her attcniiits to subjugate us still oj)pressivc in
 
 LMI \M). M'U.L\M) AM -ill \\L). ^ , .< 
 
 -\\.'\- ov. I til'' (i>-vul<il iiiiili'i!i< i>\ \-ii but jirniiilly 
 >i.;,MU ;il ii 'I'll'. -illl'iT^ no vl.isv t" ...lUanmiritr lici 
 II 1 .i;i- 'jxMii (l..!ii,ii:i : tin' ^l.is no vonii.T tourli.-s h.-r 
 !-. ;ii;.| 111'. ;!''.!- Ii< I at ino-^ilierr. tli.iii lii^ ell iiii^ I 111 
 I. hi- liiiiii*. Liii i ', i\\ii!> ir. lli- (.oii-ci. nielli vs , ;' ]h- 
 
 WII LONDON 
 
 M;:-:- \ 
 
 I . I . ,' ,. .1 ,; ;. :.;. -I \m.m<-,>!1v : 
 
 i . . ..: ': , ,1. .1 ai.-Ml i ;;;ilf iiid a 
 
 1 . Illltic ! il. . 01 liji- >(|| 1 V 
 
 ) .; - ,, : a- . ' i\ M a laiiiiai r ni' ai'i<-. 
 
 1 . a ' 't I '. ^ "...! a , i:> < li I iiii ! 1 'i^^. 
 
 :] |i!a;,Ii .1 I \ . I V 
 
 ! ; . , , ' . '') ^ ..:.' ;. ':. ' ' i -'ii ii'x. I 'aaai' 
 
 i!'.- >v ''; - 'A ' ]!'- iai'ii . -- 1 ' !. ,1 I w a- a 'nil,' t ' -' >' 
 
 ' ' ". 'i ir'i I ii lo 
 
 I'l' : (' . :i. . '. \. a >s , I ' '. I "i . a- \\' 
 
 ';!. I ~. . Ill- ;i] . - .]'' ail-'. , 'l' \ i!!-! 'ii -I'l Ijl- 
 
 .ai.'-l I >-\"iii > . .-(.iKa;. . \>-,-r.\\ii aii ilia: 
 "!- a I',. I..1 I ..: o; \ i III ;, a; ] f^ls -^aa \\c] 1-. 
 1 i-'Ha i!ii' ti ' -. i'\ . II lo til' ii \ , \ :'',- and i'\li ' ai.li' -. 
 'ai tih' |. a; ' al'i'ii' d i''~~ '' '' ''' ' ^''' "-'"" '' ' 
 
 ' ;ii ' ! i. ;j i,!||. I Hi 'ia,ai' : - ai n. ': om tin alrM\
 
 2/4 A JOIRNAL OF Tr.AVKLS IX 
 
 and recesses which surround tlie whole, and from the orr 
 chestra and pavilions, such a flood ol" brightness was pour- 
 ed out from ten thousand himjis, whose flames were ting- 
 ed with every hue of light, and which were disposed in i 
 figures, exhibiting at once all that is beautiful in regularity, 
 and all tliat is fascinating in the arrangements of taste and 
 fancy that one might almost have, doubted vvhetiier it 
 were not a splendid illusion which imagination was play- 
 ing oft' upon his senses. Do not suspect me of exaggera- 
 tion, for, wliat I have now written can give you but a faint 
 idea of this abode of pleasure. 
 
 The arclied passages to wliich I just now alluded, cross 
 ihe gard"ns at right angles with each other, a!id yet, not 
 in such a manner as to obscure the trees. In th'^ recesses 
 which bound the gardens on several sides, and also 1)0- 
 iicath tlic trees, taljles are pu>.ccd, furnished with colil col- 
 hitions, confeciioiiaries, and other refreshments. Trans- 
 jiarcnt jjaintings rc-ulered cons[)icuous by liclits behind 
 tlicui, terminate several of the a^ enucs, and al! the arbours 
 and vvalks are painted in a sjjlendid manner. 
 
 Tiie rotunda is a maQnificent room ; it is fiuv'ly [jainied, 
 Its walls are covered wiih mirrors and gilding, and two o'. 
 ihe princi])a] arched jjassatfes cross each other here. Thr 
 Hags of several nations are sns{)ended within, accompani- 
 ed by ])aintin<is characteristic of the several countries. 
 
 The orch'-slra is er(X'ted nearly in the ct.'tifre ol liir 
 gardens. It is in the form (tf a (ire<'ian temple " the sec- 
 ond story is open in iVoiU. and there the musicians <ai" 
 
 |lar( (1, 
 
 Aiioul 10 o'clock. thou'^Miiids of well dressed [H'op]^- 
 ihronucd ihr Manlens. Tlu' fuvsl eutertainnifnt consiMCc 
 of vocii! ami instrumental nnisic l>o)n the orchestra, and
 
 ! \\:). !! '1 I, W!) \M) - 'I 1 r. \Ni>. 
 
 '.,-,1 ,1 II i . I m;:i|, i;:\ ..I HUM' I ri>. Ill ii.iim... r ,;'i.'i|I lliir- 
 
 ; \ , ,ii. -; -j'!! u 1; .1 . ili' ^^'^l. .uni k i^w n l>\ (', im-h.' nl 
 '. '>,,\.- .'I N^.Ia"- biipi. |i' 1 !i>i iii'.l III ;i \ CI \ MijH'iKH 
 
 --.'. I ',. i.ir'i.^!.! ItM ll i> Mil,- nl IiM' |!i(,sl liriUUnI 
 
 . ' ;< III it I ,111 l- III .1 _ ill' I. Ii i-> .1 ' III n 111 1' 'iijil. m1 
 ' ' 111' III -I'.i'. .ni'i il I- .liiimiiiat' '[ \\:[''\ ^ u li .i i 'i. 'I ini. .ii 
 ";' 1.1.11,1- :ni,ri,''i iii iIh' Lii>-> m| i!i.' IiiiiM 'i _ i!i;ii iiv ap- 
 ;' ',1 111''' !> ' \i!.iii"!\ -|-!t ihl'.i. 'I 111-.-- ! iiiips ai, -imiiU' 
 
 1 ;'i' II l"i ;n 'hh \'i\ !h i;i!im1 In tin ir i lii'i i. 'I ii. \ aic 
 
 111' vv 'I i! -iilit lie il. "ji'Mi at t'li t";i Ml, I >ii-]M ii.i' -1 li\ a 
 * I''. I !: w hL ll'i:- ill tlf "il. la- 1 til' \\ il"'-' ! ! Ill- ;i 
 .;il.' iiiaaiiiia.t- 'I !i,cl!, 
 
 I 111' <!ir rail' ' 1. ' t!i' _'ai . a ri^ I a '- i,;^ \ ' i \\ lin - i. 'al'l- 
 .-'v^-"! lla'-'- laiiiji- airaii'_i'>l la [m r| "Hi Ii' ii'iar liia - a 
 Ml'' [allai-. aiiil tin 11 Willi uliii'i i.'W-. r. la ' -jml! : 
 \'iilitli'' la ni I'l' till' ima ciT ;li.- aia in-l ]ia~-ia i .' r 
 ", iiii il \ .-a 1 all aa M-a ' ill-' I'aa i\ ' "I l!ii- i",a'. ' a a.;- 
 '.'. .1 V iat' 1 'la , iria 1.-. "liiM laiaa- afi - |" i. l- 
 - i - i- i i . pi 'm iil in - n i . il' a\ ( 1.-. ( .'la- .\ 1 :\r- 
 ; iiM . l'a,.t ;ai -1- lain ji- aii- 1 1 la- i ii -j " -! i| ai ' < i \ |..'a I nl 
 ; a'' '_ ii I hai . Ill ". ' I v \ ai a, Mi- aial in naita! l"i ';,- , aai ai j tin' 
 !,''- ail'! .'ri'i 11 1' a\ !-. Ill ill'- all'" V '-, Ml'-- -. all I i a- 
 1 ii'-Ila. aiai til il -aiii' .an- .ii' a. niiaa- i'' I, > I'aa- I'Im . 
 A a. 1 1 a:- I: iii-iiat' iia: ia\ - i a tai-c la ,1, 'ill - lal v . an! \ - a 
 ::; iV llnai l"iaii -nap- i ! i '; lia' an ji ii- it' \ aavliai!. 
 
 < >ai lil'I'' |aii\ ai til'' 'i-ir li i,- u - n'l '. i lia- .hi' i,,i i 
 ; a a \ I a ' r a 1 1 1 a a ' a 1 1 : , w ! a ) \\ , i ^ ; a a i ' a a r '.* i ! ' i t a ] i , . . a . 
 \--"ai 1- t!''' Saial liaii liiii-!i..i li'H.iiai'a , la'I"iilii- 
 { I ran a Ml a la ai . waai h w r liai v\ iiii all p > -s; iar -ji'-i , 1. a> 
 >*' - iw 'A la \ !":> r iiini'!:: I !i ii \s .1 V a ail !ii la il \v ' kiaw 
 I a it w ii\ . 1 1 ' la J 11 .nil' .1 I'lii- lai ^ "I uiir "i tin aa .ia i 
 lll-^a-,^,, tia' ' ai't liii. Ill Ita.jM ' p.'ii'-a'K i-i ii'-.-ai .'^1
 
 '2J6 A JOrRNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 told US to haul our icind and lay our courae for the fence. 
 This we did, and ihe mystery was soon explained. For. 
 down in a dark wood, wc perceived a curtain rise, which 
 discovered London bridcie, and the water-works under it 
 nearly as lar^e as the original. The scene was produced 
 by a combination of painting and mechanism. An old 
 woman was sitino; and spinning at the foot of the bridge; 
 ihe mail and heavy coach passed over into town, and a 
 fierce bull follovvetl driving before him an ass. The thing 
 was very well done, and it was at once so odd, unexpect- 
 ed and }iuerile, that it afforded us more diversion than a 
 line strain of wit could have done. 
 
 Afier this exhibition there was music again from the 
 urc!;t;stra. 
 
 It was now past eleven o'clock, and the bell rung for 
 the fire-works. These were exhibited from the bottom 
 of a long dark avenue, terminated by a grove. They 
 were very splendid, and, as the night was uncommonly 
 dark, they produced their full effect. It is impossible to 
 give any adequate idea of them by description. 
 
 After the fire-works there was an intermission, while 
 every body tliat was disp>oied sat down to the cold colla- 
 iion. Our {)arty had engaged a table in one of the boxes, 
 as they are called. They are, in fact, little apartments, 
 without doors, closed on three sides, and openinj; into the 
 l;ardens. I was now no longer at a loss for tlie meaning 
 'jr [jropriety of tlic proverbial expressicn, a FauxliaU 
 slice ; for the ham was shaved so thin, that it served 
 ratlKT to excite than to allay the a])petite. We sat, until 
 (he music, beginning again, animated the comjiany to nr-v: 
 V'ats.
 
 i \ .1. \M). 11 ) 1. \si> AM) , ' ' : 1 \MJ. : , , 
 
 r,, ^i.i. I'.ir 11111^1. -'iihs in till' 1': 'ii' >tr;i. ^'\tMil Mim i 
 ,1111. N ]'.n\v a|i[ii .iM il ill diii'iiin! j ![> ni til'- i;ii !>i.-. 
 ~.a;i(l (111 ilf\:iii,l plali. '1 li-. r.'il'' I in. aiul c i\i|.il \\ .I'n 
 
 ^ ji'id.'ilil r:clli>pir>. ' N!ll>ir IMiW !il'</.,' nat liMli! \,!ii .lis 
 
 laiarl'-r^. ami a ii.'w i ii'' i laiiimi nt wa-" ![.. iir.l !.. the , :.i- 
 jiaiu . Till' a^~. iii'ili" - in tli' -r _ ir.liaiN al\\ a\ - Ma a; 'a . 
 . ii.v\ii ol 'jiaii.-.l [.. I'j.I''. aiii.ar' wIlhii ar.'. Iii'iji;. i.i ' \ . 
 ^.iiiH' ..f ill.' U'.l.aiix . a a. I, n.aa-i' .ii i!l\ . i'\ i n tlic 1-, iiiL' an I 
 . M<'.a! an i r.'S'al !ai!i';!\ a;. p. ai- a; \ ,!i:\'a :':l. 
 
 I'.at, ill a.ii'iin.Mi I., ill' !. I'.i -'II ill j- a i .a' I In la.iu .! > 
 . uli'ji.i-i',! (.1 .-Min-|. ,'. 111^. 'I in \ a;'.- ..i I'lit cia-^ \\\:t< 
 .a"' ^- .'.il' I Il\ . lual win.v maama'-. ,a.- |.-^ i::. '. . aa .^.- 
 " a In n^a .1 wall p. i'^. .a- . ! lin a' .aiai i' a-aa I iv i . - 
 a. 'A .il 111 I in" iHii>',.' \^ ;-. 1 1 -ri a'- . a M a ii 1. .r ll;. ai ;. . 
 . . i.naa.n.-.' .lai.'ia a 'i !av \\'-\ .;i 1 in m . . :,il _ -..apv in 
 . .i/n. i- pai't^ ..! I:r n .! il-. aial l' i.' \ . .a . _ nnai i. ,i. '11 , 
 - ' lln ai. T.a !. V. .< ...a.. . li- .1,,;.. ar l-n. , !. -: a 
 ':,;...! !m a ii\ aa.| I I. . . :-i --.aa. u! lina:: 
 . I M n I > i i I 1 \ . a ' a 1 1 n . : . 1 1 1 i n In". a .a' i \ ! . i n \ a > ... 
 'I in Ir inann. 1 - .la 1 ni > ; - n a 'nana w !il;.- il,. \ 
 t s(i -f. - I- .n. !- aa;, tn .-x.a- .a- a-!. \\ v 
 ,.ai ,- 1 'la In I.' ! Ii> .1. 'I 11). a 1 .a; 1. a ili\ a . 
 >A aat I l..ani a- -a '' a. ;!i ;t --.am' i - . .a a.lr !,a!l . . 
 i I i . 1 1 1 1 1 1 . 1 1 1 I . a n II n . n . r. t a \ . , a i . I i > - - t ' , 1 1 i a . 1 1 1 n , . - ' ; '.'< 
 I . ai. 1 ' I a^ion.il'a.a a; ,1 .'i ,y!ii-. in: a I n ' 
 
 \ni .'I. 1 ; V " .iM v- in '!,' ''.'. ,, , 
 w' , i'l.- !.. i\ - i.i .--.! ill :i ; \ 'aliif iiaa..: !! T 
 
 ,,..a ,..,. --.an:., im 
 in 'i rhil ill II, an.', r
 
 2(S A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IX 
 
 over this may be, it is certain that both ladies and gentle- 
 men, and little misses and masters, are always spectators 
 of these scenes, and I saw numerous instances where 
 young men would leave ladies who were under their care, 
 and join the dances, and then return to their friends ajrain. 
 
 This scene continued till half after one o'clock in the 
 morning, when our jiarty came away, and I was told tliat 
 it would probably continue till three o'clock. 
 
 The new day had dawned when I reached home ; 1 
 was much fatigued, and went to bed with a violent head- 
 ache, and completely disgusted with a place, which, al- 
 though superlatively elegant, is, 1 am convinced, a most 
 successful school of c.orruj)tion. 
 
 Xo. XXllI. LONDON. 
 
 Mutiic of Commons Tiicoiivcniences to wliicii ?jiectator,~ are 
 sul)jected Conversatioti witli a member Rotten boronglis 
 Debate on the army Col. Crawford Mr. Pitt Lord Castle- 
 reagli Windliam's retort courteous Mr. FoxSheridan As- 
 sociation of Jdias Ceremonies and customs Weather and 
 winds. 
 
 HOUSE OF CO.M.MO.NS. 
 
 At a dinner, a fvw days since, I was introduced to Sir 
 Christ()])her Hawkins and Davies (xiddy, I^sq. two mem- 
 bers of the House of ('onimons, uhowereso kind as to 
 jiienlion this day to me as one that would probably pro- 
 dnce debates in their body with ^\hich a stranger would 
 be gratified. One of these gentlenu n gave me a good seat
 
 K\ 1 . M). !! I 1 WD \Vi) -''"Ml WD 
 
 :i liii L'-lii I \ . .1-^ ii'' l:.i'l I'ii' 1' .1 ,' il" \ui' II I - ;,'. ii.:;i 
 
 .1 ..il'-. >i; ul!.'i"> :ir''l'"! .l.i.lllMr ! (U liir ll' < '1 . I '; : C 
 
 liMii-i\ null >^ l!i('\ :iri' I'i!fi_'ii miiii-l'i^. "T, .u>- -p 
 ,H-i:i::i;, -1. ;u!(l ;!l ii'l'lN lii-It !.>;( :ii:-l.! lh''"i:i_\ ", 
 iM'i lli'.'tV .>r -II i:>'_' ill.' 1 Ii;il -. Ill ( 'I'lllllin;!-. ' i 1 1> ' 1 1 ;; 1 ' - 
 
 'iiH'iiuii ol ;i I'i' ill!" r -'run'- \ .ui a >rii 'ji,'.ti> ; cil:!.'! w i' 
 
 i ti ',.-. Ii' i~ iiai ! Ill ill'' li'KM -i^rij'i ;. I'lmii l::!l! ,i i r 'V. ;i ' " 
 1 .!'' I ;iii I. ,';',;. ,- til'- D'-iM -ii'ii ;> in T' i.r l^'- 
 
 ! . ' - ' --.i: ill ll. II il w ill 11. I Ii. I'^ 
 
 : : ' I ! 1 . 1 , 1 . 1 1 ' ' . . i 1 . 1 . 11 ; . ! I , , I v . - r \'.\o 1 n i ; i : 1 1 1 ; ' | i . 
 
 . : 1 I -Ir i! ! ,'..'.1.'.^ ii'ii .. ' ;i V , iii.i::\ . \\ m ihm r r.\ i;:;- 
 '"I [.,ii! (! ii.ii' :> \)i' CI. t!. It !)ri-iiiiirv iM ''"--. I r_\ lin i . ;> 'n 
 
 .'.";) i..- 1 1 . '1- < ' I \ I ,.: ! . ill ni irr t' 1 si^-.'if ,1 -' i" ; 
 
 ; .' ll:'T\ .- - ' I ;.,!!''-. I ic, llplr.l \iV si'\i'll i' r''" '^ \. "' ! . 
 
 ui-i ill. II ; "1 :. I'll '""i "' 1'" K 1*. ^! ' 
 'I.. I'-'Ii'-.^ ',. ,i-ii- ;!: ^p. I ;,i'. .[- 111,1 . '.< ii;il'.;i 1 ! ' \'. '. 
 .1 I ;',' i.. ;.i ,il! ;i:..'),i'.iji\ . :l!i- vi' .> r | ri < I ;;i:' \.'._ ! ' 
 
 1"--' .i !i\ ill'- '!' i'.il''. \:'' ! \ . u l..i\ ' "i, ' 
 
 : : ,' !l '. Mil -I II. \ -' I li; ,-; ,[i !;i .Ii\' ucr'ipv il ,'ll lii, li.ii--. 
 ' 1 _\ " I ill'' |-..!l-.|,,', ,, ,! ;;, |, ;; I p :;-,!,;:_; J!. 'i !, ; 'I Iii.'a - 
 
 ' \ 11 I' .iri.-.v ' I ; 1 ll.' .Ill :ii;, ij'i il'- !. ii-f i:!;il', \ 
 
 . . ;iM i !.'. I'.:-, lit ' ill'- 111 \ .11, r j i| ..'.'.. ii In . , ; 1 i\ iiiu .' 
 
 i : l.'l ll l\ h li.-i ;l 1 .:.! . 
 
 \ - I li. I ! 'I ; . \\ i- ir .; '. 
 
 il I 1 'jl\ . 11 111-' .1 [il.M'- ill ill" : :l.i > . 'A ,i- >! .1' 
 
 - I ';. .\\ r. iiii'i m:i I i 1 1'l nil- vs ,l n iii_> i . : : ii % - i , : .. 
 
 iii''iii.ii\ :ii!a;' . 1 II ill.' r. I,: , . I ii,> i .i . i \ ,i I ', : l^. 
 
 : ill'- ..1 i I'l . ; .-; i..;; ,i I- n.'i -s. | 
 
 ;! u : .\ I., i 111. -.1 :i '1 :i ;i i; I , ,i i 
 
 h,' 1 i. ll:! -. .ill'i. Ill --ir I ;. I..' ;i
 
 ;280 A JOURNAL OP TRAVELS iN 
 
 iloiise of Commons, and thus bring their professional- 
 knowh'dge to apliicc where it is much wanted, not to men- 
 tion that an o[)[)oitMniJy was thus afforded them, by their 
 personal vigilance, to take efTectual care of the rights of 
 their respective professions. In the elections by counties 
 and towns, it seems that it is usual to send up some person 
 ]ocai!y settled among those who elect him, but, in the bo- 
 rough elections, any man, residing even in the remotest 
 part of the kingdoin, may set himself up, or, (which is the 
 more common course,) his friends may do it for him. As 
 the election is generally under the control of a tew men, 
 who have become possessed of the freeholds, to which the 
 right of election was, by the charters of kings, originally 
 granted, it is not a very difficult thing to becom.e, through 
 them, a member of the House of Commons. The gentle- 
 man ^vith whom I was conversing, was a member from 
 Cornwall, 
 
 It was not quite four o'clock, when Mr. Abbot, the 
 Speaker, came in. Alter a short religious service, tlie 
 Speaker counted the members present, and when forty 
 had aj)pearcd, he took the chair. I was informed that if 
 forty do not apjiear at four o'clock, the Speaker instantly 
 udionrns the Tloesc till the next day. 
 
 The Honse of Commons sit in St. Stephen's Chajjel, 
 which they have occupied ever since the reign of Henry 
 \ i. This apartment,, as before observed, is connected 
 with Westminster Hall, so that, in jxissing from the onr 
 to the other, there is no necessity of going out of doors. 
 
 The room occupicfl by the [louse of Commons is merc^- 
 lyneat; it lias no apjiearance of spl(>ndor, and is reall\ 
 unequal to the diirnity ol'this great nation. The ])rinci))al 
 tibiection h> il is in point of si/.e. for it is much too ?!n;!'.l
 
 [ Ni.i. \M). li.'i I wu \M> -1 '- ; 1 *. N :>. - -I 
 
 lor t'li' itfri'.iinn.Hiiti.'ii "l umi lIiHii ^i\ iiiiiiii. i >! i:ii ;iil). . -. 
 
 !;!'. lil'\ ;il<- li'Mlall [ilrMMt. 'i'lif -i li" :!!|. lirs U[f 
 
 U'h-.'. i!;) I'lr tl;.~ II-:' ni iMr p.i. Ml ! I. T- . ail I it i- i.:.!', ;ii>' ^.il- 
 
 l'r_\ .11 l!|f ril;i i.i' tl].' I I. Ill -I U llicli i> ,|r\.it<(i !'> -tl i' .'^ . -. 
 
 I'll.- ill),. r> ;iif r.i\ cii-J \\ it!i <-;u p- t-. .irl fin-- >' ^ \^i^l 
 '.!' ' ii I ! 'ill. !i'-i !'> a III iMiii/ m cii-hi iii>. 
 
 I -!miI p.. 11, I III lliiv urra-i.iii. ai't a- -fii. i; r M '!' ; U< :',' 
 Ilnn-i'. I w i'l I i< mi, ai iiiii \ a li \v r,.< !~. ^Ial;^ t.aa.-si.i 
 
 I.IUi i.il 
 
 i\rr t'l-l-Hl, 
 
 U 
 
 I lia- i.i:!it 
 
 I ini n !,!' !| !i I 1 'ii fii I \:iM --In av-:i;Mi u t.T 1 1! ~i' )-> - i.n. at 
 til'- tM.' . an ' n ii'.ai r \. ii, i| t'p' 111.1-1 ii\ el-, iir.-i -'. u a- 
 lir.ni:!:t l" '! \^ ir.l ii'. ;; la l. '.: si. ! i.iiiit !.\ :ii'a. (..!.( '.a w - 
 I 'p!. !i'V!'a I'ii' !''iai 11' a lll'illiiil III i:; ; '!'. ':". ''a' ~'ati' 
 111 till' afai\ . It \\ a- - r.i 1'. 1! la' I' i.i !i. . ,; .. ina - t'"ia' 
 I'-. i) 1' '' '- ', i.a '.If. i'ii;. aa.i ii' la'W laa.'.- i( 
 ia '.ina. ': -.... i:,^^, vai.;...!!. 1 !'\ |.iii!at'. 
 
 :<, I re j . .III!' -1 a . 
 , .,. I 1!. I, ,, 
 
 aa-- 
 : ll,r 
 'ill, 
 
 :',;i- 
 
 ai..: ,. 1. ul. !i.- : a; ,: k- 
 
 11, [.. .a.::y...M i .^a!t. 
 
 (aiiiiiw \ t I la- i,; :! i'liiiii;i- !' . 11. \i,a.\ . 
 
 -j 1 1! . ''. \''. -a '.., I a - a III' an \\ ;' ' 
 
 ;l \ . (''.(', \ a |-. iv - ' a la av 1 a \- 
 
 r '- .;; - 'a:' ,-, ' a: li. :- a \ . , 'ai]!. a! ; , at', al- 
 
 ;a. '. 'ii.- < a a. a ::. r.j' ).. 1,,.. i;. ,;. r. \, .', . ,. ,,,,,. 
 aa a! \>. ia 11 . .a aia' ja , '.'.. \'\ a ! .i la ! a. a . 
 
 ' ai at ,it ]. -' ,. i..inial i''."a''a-i.ai. la w ;a ii I'a 'ii!.a (: 
 .' li.'- a ai '. ' t -'mI! !.( ' ;- .'ait a .1 ; 1, !. !|. r-,, -a ;. 
 aa -. aial r ;. '- : la' ! ;'- ia la.' \ ' \ .a i -i- . a t',a -, ;,- 
 ; ! :\ I - \ la iaa_\ ;.. \\ ..a '. , ii-a .-a.- u iai j.t i- 
 : , , : ..!;ii' -i: . ! ; ia.\ a j.i .^aa-' '! m. mai ii. 
 
 1 la.;.. ,i lla;! ^I^. I'llt \^ . a i 1 , ! \ . s...kr!! .a, t!a- ^aii- 
 .'. iai! la: ilid la 1 .1. ..ai t-i V i'l\. \\ la u C' '. ( iau|M,.i
 
 282 A ,JOl UN'VL OF TKWKLS l-V 
 
 alluded to iiini personally, which he often did, he only 
 shook his head occasionally, or smiled contemptiionsly. 
 This irritated the orator, who even noticed in his speech, 
 that the honourable gentleman smiled. 
 
 Lord Casilercagh, from Ireland, replied to Col. Craw- 
 ford with much perspicuity, correctness; and ability, and 
 proved himself a superior man. 
 
 lie was answered by Windham, who, with great fluen- 
 cy and wit, made the noble lord blush and the House 
 langh. It had been urged by the opposition, that the 
 regular army ought to be increased, so as to be com- 
 petent to meet die invasion, without relying upon the vol- 
 unteers, who, they asserted, could not be depended upon. 
 To this, Lord Castlereagh replied, that the experiment 
 had not been pursued far enough ; they coald not as yet 
 <av it would not ansvrer ; they ought to try the volunteer 
 system longer. 
 
 Windham retorted, that the noble lord's argument was 
 like that of the apothecary, who, Avhen his patients came 
 and complained that his quack medicine did no good, us- 
 ed to tell them try it (tgciin! trij it again ! 
 
 Althctugh Mr. Pitt remained silent with respect to the 
 motion on the state of the auny, I liad the pleasure of 
 hearing this creat man speak a few minutes on a petition 
 which lie handed in. There was nothing in the subject 
 whicli called for a display of elo(|uence ; ho made simply 
 a stuteuK'nt of facts, but this serv(>d to identify his voice 
 and manner, la his j)erson he is tail and sj)are ; he has 
 small limbs, wiih liU!2(' knees an, 1 fict ; his features arc 
 -liarii; his nosr lame, jioiiited, and tiu'iiing uji ; his com- 
 i)lexion sangifnie; his \oice deep-toned and connnandint:'. 
 \-y. N-.vc' t. an! n, i f.-t. i!v 't\ dl jtiodnlyS'd. ani.l h's whole-
 
 I -.'.I WD. li '1 I \M Wn -i"[l.\N!l. 
 
 .,n-v,-iic,\ iim V. iii:>l.iiu:inj l\\>' uaiiicl '\ iiiiin ti\ in iii- 
 l::!i:i-. i-. v\ in u In- ii>fs tii ^p'Miv. I;iil i>l ^u jn: i.u il v ,ui'' 
 
 iMlis; ;,iil, i;i'_-r;l(\. I li.ll ;i ili>tlll.'l \\i\S i.| li.:)i \\<\- -|\ 
 
 ii'iir-, ii:iiiir_' wlii'-h CiiH- ]'. >,il iiiic'( (is- li.'I.nc U;''. Hi-. 
 .in ^- \s .1^ a lilin' r.iai \ulli i!i<'I il!i'- iiiiMmK. a wli.l'- \(^t, 
 li! i<!v - iiiii iin i-rli -. ani Willi' ^iik ^^lMklll_f^. Willi laiji' 
 li'i' k'.i > ill hi- -li;( >. Hi- !: iir \\a> pnw .in.- 1. Notuiih- 
 -tainli:;'.' ill" \ ail'ii.r nl' t iir t 'piMoi! ! ai. iiiii liii-ii lia'.inL,' 
 !' ' ii -(> l":i: arc II n], Mill rl i,i In. \ Dicr. \\ In a; h- i . i.e. th." 
 il 'li-i' li. caiin Ml ijMi't. thai a win-jMi iiin lit li ivr 1m in 
 !:' iiii liMiii ;(ij\ piit. Ill' wa- \<TS li' iiii' a all-, -^i liijt ii"! 
 a waail sva-l'isi: -lill rii'ijs \\a> iii- iimvt viiakiii_' ( hai- 
 
 htrl'Mic. 
 
 Mr. l"o\ \\a> aN'i [inaait. liis |iii-<i>ii i> vn \ In-is. 
 Ill-; Urc!^ is ^Inal. iiis lir aii Ih'm'. idiiiv!, am! iimw (|1|;;.; 
 jit \. lli^ r'ip-t I- liiaia i aiiil ) a ' wiii ii' ill . aal l.i> \if[\ 
 aii'l iiiiiiis \ i-t aiiil cajMiit 1,1, <\> 11 l^r laii.liiiil. Ili> 
 rMinplfXhai i- ilaik. hi-. I' at .its | n 'r. .-.i , iikaa < |..-( 
 ! .J' ih' r, aU'i III uiKaiinniiiM ^\/.'\ ana \\\^ \^ h..'.' .aa" aiaau n 
 jiM u!iai . ii..li!'. ami rniiiaiaii iiii . II.- h.. a w a^ imi pi .\\ 
 .!' if'ii : h'' \i. ui'r a h!a'- (..,ii. \'. /.Ii iia:i t a--ni:'a c unari 
 ilir... aial \> hill' -ilk -I'likiii',-. 
 
 I -aw hail ill iinai' !' 'U- -nii:.i .' :;-, !, .' lii' -< . ini.i \ ri v 
 ;;:i'' i-\ . aii'i ('!i tiij "1 hi- [.I.hik, ii\ laip-; h. w.ih.iii 
 .I'l'.al \sa nt I ail a:i' I ca ii a in ,'. . at i; ji miJi i\ aial iIuw a, 
 in.) \s 1- ahip.-i 1 aai lanlls in r." 1. ii. I|.- -(."k'' .t 1. '.s 
 i.ai ;' - . .11 1 1 jii I 111. ill l! .an a [n i - .. i..r a !- .ia 1 ..i li lai. I 
 'a !', > I ai. Ill- I mai i-. - w .a c \ . i \ [ ..; ; a,<ail I > tia' ( .i-i ; 
 '1- i.M'.a-a- li..\\!.;_a ia-\.,;il m ..a. hiil wnh.ul lla- 
 '/ u'w an! ini; n -as. ai -- t 1 I'a;. Ih- -;.. >a h ,i,k a 
 . . .1- it' "..lia: up hah .lai h> li-;- w ru- . lea. h' .| 
 -;. in-, aaa a-. : ; '.:[-. Tia' .. : a 'a.' -
 
 284 A JOL'RNAL OF TSAVF.LS 15 
 
 both of him and Mr. Pitt are very correct, with the 'jsuul 
 allowance for the extravagance of this kind of prints;. 
 
 Sheridan, so celebrated for his speech at the tiial of 
 Warren Hastings, was in the house, and s])oke on a ques- 
 tion connected with the whale fishery, ilis ]anguaL''e flows 
 with great facility. 
 
 ^Vhile present within tlicse walls, wiiich have iieard so 
 often the thunder of the elder Pitt and of P>urke, I associa- 
 ted the memory of these great men wiih the very seats 
 and pannels, and it was no unnatural en!j)]o\'mcnt for an 
 \raerican to revert to that period when, in this ];lace, 
 were voted tlie suj)plies for those armit s, which javaged 
 our countr}'. and wlien, on this l^ior. a general of one of 
 iliose sirniics made his elo>[;:eiU defence for surrendering 
 liis swnrJ to rehch.* 
 
 I'l'.e general appearance of the House was vfrv similar 
 to that of Vmerican legishitive assemblies. They have a 
 custor,! of crying out hear ! h.ear ! when any thing is said 
 to wliich th.ey wish to call the attention of the House : 
 sometimes this word is vociferated fiom so many at once 
 as entirely to chown tlie orator's ve.ice. 
 
 The i^'^peaker takes the opinion of the House in tliis 
 I'onn '' as m-uiy a.s are of this opinion say aye !"' " con- 
 trary oifmions say no!" and llien the resn.lt is declai'cd 
 thus : '-' he aves have it. or ihe noes have it,'' according 
 as one or tlie other party prevails. The niendjers all 
 were.- their hats. Th.ey Iiave no pay for their aftenchmce; 
 the ii'.duceniee.t is d-rived from ti!-' honor and the in- 
 fluence wliich a sciit \:i Parliament daift'i-s. Ft follows 
 
 ' Gcner.;! liurgoyne.
 
 k \ .i \Ml. H...1.1 \\I) AM) -^t'lll \S|I. .--, 
 
 I':;- .^.. iki r ulKri"- til-' , ill. Ill- l" Ih' I l'-;u.-.i. Ii\ - l\- 
 
 ' -! f iii'.'i'i s \^ itii'ii.iw ' ^lil^ lir i!U' r> \\ il!i ;i \ I I / 
 
 I ' ;i N "ii '. .iiii| lli> III--! t':iii I In ,ii il ilif iii;niil.i!i- 1 w ,is 
 (i>|i 'M-.i t.i iilir\ i_ ill ;.MilI\. I'liit 1 w ,is ^uiiMi-ii! ill -i-r 
 w ;iii w M.'.! II,' ii;ii 11 :ii'' ii \\ ;i' i<'ri'i\ I'l!. S'>ii,i liiin ^ ii w ,is 
 : : a'.x .1) -i'l .:i!il.il, :i'iii lur >[ . i t ili i|- ritaim J l!:i ii v' at-. 
 . ' 1 !:! \ '.. I ' ni\ I 1 !< ii-'^i till It w a- \ilii:iii ii;i > n |ii it- 
 
 r . \\ w c |i' lir!!,! II ii;it 1 Mllinliri ul tilll' - lll lili' ri I-'' 
 
 I 'i i h'' ' .1 'I'ti . ii II' 1 ;i n as al\\ I \ - cMmiii ' \ iiii|i!' <> t u( , 
 Itii'ii.-i '!;' : ,:r- ,i;i ! "i - h aiiiii;/ to tiii' '_-tll>-r\ \wr<- 
 \ ' I ' i . . I \ ! at i-ii:itr-l iin ai laliU i ii-a' 'i l"r 
 
 '' ii'iiin :.! till' ili'i'l - W rir dpi iir.i. 
 
 1 , :: I -ii' :i;s iiii'l' I lIn- -aiii"' i ^ li u i;!i i ir' 
 
 Jl'"'' ,':! il'-. a;i'l |i|i\ali' j)a--a-i ^ lia.Hl".' n'.) 
 
 tin I a. "la . i a ' . ,'i ah t ha I in Mil n I'- if ''U ! ti, i- In 1 i li . -Ii 
 t'a 'ii-' ' '. ' -. ^'laii- lil IIP' iiii'IiiIh I- pri ill' liii--i- |. lairjiii.- 
 , '..' lail .in 1. 1 tin- i l'iii-f, alhi aH' ntlril I'Miiiil 
 
 la ' '. ; a 1 1 ail"! ta'ali <llppi I , \i li'lr pall a 'I - an- -pi ini- 
 11. ; a> ! 'a 1 I'l' :a \ nil. In ( nii\ nir.- lli. i-i- v. ii.i ai.- imaf 
 . . ' .1 "i!. 1 alhl 1)1 rl v|i al,-. liiaii !i\ ll.i cli iiiii- ! 
 
 I'l'Mjii. Ill . . Il \\.i . laiw liilwii a in'ailii ail ala! lilir ii'rl.'i-k 
 III till' ha >1 nil! :- - I ill ,'al I'M'' .' II' I !i ill .Ui :i a i -ji '> i li :ia' a \ :- 
 
 |i III liiaa ir/n-. all' I I !i -1111.1 tn . ' I .i ''i:p n! i'M : m'l i.l!.i\\ 
 inj lii.i! Pa rnll'. I ip.ali- w 1 : I ' - I \ 1 'I l^i tia la. ai'n 1 
 ,l1..!ii . I \^ ,,_ I'll" jl.l.i laa , '.'. i'l a 1 \i .; - - r . , ; . i n i li , aa I la- 
 jiiii \ \\ la 111' I 1 \\ a- a n.'iiii'' I i 'I i'.ii I; i iia at . .\ - I r.'iii 
 
 - 1,1 ' ' ' '
 
 286 A JOinXAJu OK TRAVELS IN 
 
 not answer in the alTirmative, I was obliged to tnke nij, 
 tea in the lobby. 
 
 I walked home alone wilhout uiecting any adventure, 
 and indeed; if I may judge from my own observation dur- 
 ing the sliort period that I have been here, London is as 
 ^afe by night as a a illage. 
 
 i HE WEATIIKR AND WiNDS. 
 
 June 28. Tiie fickleness of the weather in this island is 
 proverijial. It is a standing topic of complaint with all 
 valetudinarians, and is a considerable inconvenience to 
 tiiose who are well. 1 was caught yesterday in a shower, 
 .1. mile from home, without an umbn Ua, and in a street 
 where there were no hackucy coaches ; before I could 
 leach one of the stands for coaches they were all engaged, 
 and I was thoroucldy wet. 
 
 The niunber of hackney coaches In London is ver\ 
 >.;reat. They are strictly regulated by law, and it is gen- 
 'raliy not difficult to obtain a coach, but when a haul 
 >!iov\ er comes on, they arc often put in requisition so s:id. 
 dculy, that it is impossible to procure one. 
 
 In tills countr}' it is not wise to go far from hunie \villi 
 out an unil)rella ; fur showers and sunshine tread so rapid- 
 ly in each others steps, that the most flatterini: aspect of 
 the skies cannot be trusted. As 1 was going to the par- 
 liament house to-day, J was overtaken by a violent tem- 
 pevst, altended witli tinmder, liLdiJnhiL', rain and hail; 
 some of tin: hail stones wcref)f fhe >izc of a laiyc hazlenut. 
 and f;jr a few minutes they completely cover<'(l tlie slrecN : 
 the rain di.srt:nd!."d in iorrciits, and the water dehiged tlic 
 stierts. o\^( f'uwii'- *'?;; sidi- u-a'ka !: inai'v Dhu'^^. !
 
 N.-l \M>. Ili->M AM) AM) *<(<r\\\l>. 
 
 (i.('K ii Iii/f III a v|io[) till III'' ^ii'iiii \\;t^ I'MT. aim ilnii 1 1- 
 s:;i:i' 1 m\ s\ ilk. 
 
 ir 1 ;ii:i\ I.I' allnu.-'i t(. i'i<L'i' tV.ini >.m liiil!- . \[n il. iic(\ 
 
 f s'ii'mIm tliihlv that \:)W ll.l'l Imcii a 'jn,,A i!r,.l 111 pc. \isll 
 
 (a>iii,.!aiiiin_; u illi h-jm ri \u iai^li-li u . ,it!i, r. all 1 l li tti'' 
 
 ' iiiiia'a'. ii !> til!''. In m'IV I liair^' a!il.- ; liiit all iliaiati - an- 
 ill kli'. aiiil ;li ii ul N. \\ 1 .iijlainl l^ ciaMinU v.) in ;iii i mi- 
 la lit til 'J! I r. 'I 111 in-iii ir ^il nil ion nl 111 itaiii im li'mlu ciui- 
 :ii;iil!.v In ilir llililaliiiitv lI 1 lirir wfat I !i T rv|ii cIhII^ tci 
 i II III ji ^ ir. an \\i \ in ,li \ . I ml I in' ti ;i!i-l!-nii> If an I: rat lo 
 ' >'! ;ii ! 'iV lai iinar.-. a-, ^inki'-n aiiij : 1 1 .'t a^ in "Si w -I aii^- 
 ani.an.lit ni.n III' iImiiIiIi ,1 \^ ill till 1- il:l^ r'liniat'' i> nut 
 n'l iIh- ulm!.' lii-tii r a i.ii ii i In liuiaan cniiirdit a'r! j.ai- 
 /.vi;\ than mil-, in \\!ilrli \\i air II ii'i 1 \s Itli --'lii h'H'^ 
 i:\tri Kiov (,r lirai ami cnl'i. 
 
 Ii 1- I'liM ixi'il til It \iiiii:ran- w Im sr'tli' iii lar-'in.! 
 
 In I'li- ..'I'llnii' ni' iii'n, ii'M_\ I'M . !'i i:l 1,1 alili aii.l lisr 
 
 ' ' ' '< ; n!J ,1^1 . 1 1.iir.- i; iia- III-' ii i mna i ki'. I . llial tlic 
 
 .;' -! 1 ni Miiaiimi In; |:r,iltli ami Inp hi' is lam w itii an 
 
 A nil ; i'.ill l.a^is ,i;..i :i;i Ln.llsli -'IjH ; -^l ; i)( ii;.r. 'I lir 
 
 !> laki:. : n'i! nl ila- \ n n ri'';. ii w :r. in l"7'- 'ami'lit cnii- 
 ;iifr;i'ak' iiiiiiiiiiT- nf \ nn rii .in l..\ aii a- tn I a-jkiiai. aial 
 - Mill' ni il,. ai 1 1 niaiia i :' Mi i :!.'] i nr ai.'l ^t ill v n , |\ ,. 
 \ nu iii-.-as;ni!:i!!\- iia t tla ni in I .' .iai. '.i ami ni.i-I nl lli' in 
 1 .Milir"! till' tnii'i ni' ill;- i.a^i r\ .iii'ia. 
 
 < hi tin- ' a. I Iniin I i' -.i .' 1. tii:l wiri.' wiilii,' ,;! 
 Iln;.'|.' Wll il U nil!. 'A ~ .ll|i| ilnni- sii:;! . I \.. :l^ ( . 11! 1 I. Ill ,| tn 
 
 jiul nil a I ii 1 1. ilia I I inilii s. aii'l lin.ilK In \v I a[i in v -. 1 1 in 
 llilllH'!. 'I'lia l|i\t i!.l\ I \'..l> ni'l!". .1 In imI! Inr a il.r. -- 
 'I ills Is !i. i\\ I \ ' I . I I 1 1 sM nil', an n nrnni 111 111 (Ms. '. Ill'' 
 liaini.'i'', n| tills rjanili'. siiiii'iM n.'i.'i'. c ail i i' ml - \i;\ 
 niMiai i.j 11^ liiir \i-;, I alinn. 'I in' ''n i a is m iiiliim- aiiH
 
 2S8 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN" 
 
 pure that the eye delights to dwell upon it. If the cli- 
 mate of this island be contrasted with that of the neigh- 
 bouring continent, the effect of its insular situation be- 
 comes most manitest. In Holland the rivers and canals 
 are ice-locked for weeks every winter : here it is a won- 
 der if the Thames freezes tolerably firm, once in half a 
 century. I am very much struck although not surprised, 
 with the different character of the winds here and with 
 us in the Eastern American States. With us the East 
 and North-east wind brings clouds and rain, and in the 
 winter snow, and dismal melancholy weather, often of 
 Jong continuance : here these winds are dry, with clear 
 s]\.ies and fine weather, olten of some endm-ance ; here 
 the west winds are what i.he north and north eiist are with 
 as, and with us the west winds are what the north and 
 north east winds are here. These facts appear to admit 
 of an easy solution. In Britain the western winds come 
 charged with the vapours of the great Atlantic Ocean ; 
 hence they are sure to bring cloudy weather and rain. 
 Indeed at Liverpool, (and I understood it to be a fact 
 generally, on the western side of the island) the preva- 
 lence of westerly winds is so great that the trees in many 
 instances, obviously lean to the east, and are covered on 
 the windward, that is the western side, with moss. On 
 the contrary, the east and north-cast winds arrive in I5rit- 
 ain after running over immense tracts of continent with 
 very little intervening water, they ought therefore to be 
 dry winds and to bring fair weather. This reasoning is 
 all applicable to America, only reversing the f;icts, and of 
 course the order of the conclusions, for the east and north- 
 east winds obviously arrive there after tia\t riing tlic 
 ocean and the western winds after traversing the land.
 
 .. 1 I'll',.:- .1 I.' iri:\ :I\ au', ro'M.i ;T 
 ;i. ' 111 i -i)'.'!.-.! ^i;i:..i,' f : tin- I.m r- 
 
 iii- .'.. "'1 . ' iv ].: ;m ;; - iiii.ri- tliiii ^iiMitu' r ii'Mt. .nui 
 L^i /.;..!;> ! -^. ;i:i.. ;' i- \ ' i \ ii.i iirit' .1 tiiat tii-' mii (|ir\ 
 ii-i'> hi.iit'i tii.iM . \';'i"i:_ii il.i-!ii'^ ! r;i;;: .iif !-- 
 
 .i I' III. l!i- ; i- .i!-.i ;,i i.ii "!.:! > l' I'l'i'' liii'_'iit ^i.!>'-. iii,i;i i 
 
 ilbi lllJ.Mn'i!, ;iili| lihli- ,:!i' -MlMIl'l' i|,r.^. Witil lii"-i 
 
 l>.i'\.iiit i;'!' \ 'l.'ii!-. ,iii'l ill-' >-;iiiii',' iiiiii;i-i (j\ ih' III 
 
 \ nil 111'' ill ''I I ;i/,i!i , 1 iMwji\ . w ii:rij CMji--) ;;';t'' ^^ 'ill'- ri i' .' 
 
 \ ,. \\|\ ._:,.JM){)\ 
 
 ili \'. 
 
 1 \ !.T. . -\< 
 
 I 1 ; 1 > \ ; 1 . 1 \ ; > \
 
 -TM) a JOriiNAL Ol-' ^iH.A\t.Lb i.V 
 
 t'r.e late Sir William Hamilton, so well known by his long 
 residence in Italy, and by the collection ol^ Etruscan vases 
 with which he enriched the British Museum. It was at Mr. 
 (ircville'sthat I found, myself sometime since, so awkward- 
 ly situated, ill consequence of having come without my Ict- 
 ler of introduction. But, 1 could not have fallen into bet- 
 ter hands, for itlr. Greville's politeness and kindness made 
 the thinsf perfectly easy. 
 
 Mr. Cireville is one of the King's Piivy Council, and 
 s well known to the scientific worlil by his exertions to 
 jivomote the study of mitieralogy, in which department of 
 p.atural knowledge he possesses perhaps the best private 
 'cllectioii in LLurope.* lie informed me that he is descen- 
 tled from Lord Erook, who, with Lord .^ay, foundetl Say- 
 inook at the mouth of Connecticut river. This Lord 
 Brook was slain in a singular manner, at the battle oi 
 Litchfield during the civil wars, by one t)yot, a dumb 
 jnr.!), who was remarkably skilleil in sliooting. Lord 
 Brook was standi iig at a crreat distance v.i.h his vizor 
 ihrown up ; I tliink it was said that he was standing in 
 the dnor of a house, when some one jiointcd him out to 
 ])_\ot. and tlie latter aimed with such fatal accuracy, that 
 Ik; shot him through one eye. His armour is still siieun 
 in \\ arwici; Casth;. 
 
 At Mr. (ircville's, among several jjentlemen of science, 
 [ !iad tiic ])leasun,' of meeting a man whom I liave long 
 contcnij'laled v.ith a(hn;ratioii. J mean .Mr. Watt of 
 i)irmiiigl;am, one of the gicalost philosojiliers oftlie})re^- 
 ent day, tlir ])articular I'rleiid and a^sociat< of l-r. Biack. 
 and the great impro\ei-, I \v.\d almost said ii;\eritor. of th<" 
 
 ' .'-iii-ir; IMr. (inn ;il'.;'j dciili!. it lifis hfc; pni'cliD-Li! hy t'lo Hri
 
 \N,I -.Ml - 1 , N .' 
 
 1..,^. li. 
 
 :> ;i \ Tn r it'ir i,:.ni >i - \ :i!\ '!' n:"i-.' . '>':: 'i .< . ;'.\ < 1 1 < r 
 ,11 liN j. !v.i' ;iii i ili'' iiii'' ; i;i 1:!- i.! inv : -. t ! \^ ..- \ i : v 
 ,t',,i:il.-. ;].: ,i!iM' ;'i I i .:'i;i.i>t i ; > .1 ', ; i.'i)'r ':. 
 
 , ,'1 \ vq'i i-.-i. u li>';i.' I :; .> ;.:!,, 1 :! \ . 1 '; .. . V . !.: 
 '.! \ . .iilI'ijiMlii -. nr :.. . \ :,>'; ^ 
 
 ili^Ii' .: 111'!! iv :i;r! !!; I.; -! ,.';ii,i::!.- ;.i;(! j-'l ''' 
 
 I w ;i . !';...- ~i' A- li!,!! ill 111' ':i';iM i'"* [ >- , ' - .i,;!\ ;. 
 
 .-I :ii;.\ . 1 )i . i '.! ..-' III. ,^.':li T I ! I i\ ' !> : 
 
 ' ^- lip . . 
 
 W K i.fini.-.i II;'.. !.n-i,i..i! ..n N.i.:. :in,l Mr. V ..::. v 
 ;ir; !'':ii III il in', \ it \\ - ill \ i-itiii'.. I.n :! ';i'', \v ,'^ : ; > ii'"i_ii 
 I .;,ri-. t i!\ .av-vti' '11 I'l :i ' ii;:iliii- .'1 ii , , , i . 
 
 ii .,i, :'!> ill j.::! t- i'\ ill'- k'!iL:i;.i:ii : ;;- \', , . . '. . 
 
 ' ill li, .' Il t III- I ii\ iri iiiv. ;ni I l!i III' 1 1 1 1 '111 ~'. V t - ! \\ I '- 
 
 :ii:,-i I. 1:.' I' 'I:!;'-'! 'i;it ^ nil'- I'l I'l'' ''ma; '.-.:'i.!f < . >t'. ' - 
 
 ', ' I i 1 I . ' I '. 'II 1 1 I ~ 1 1 1 1 1 1 r . 1 1 ; I .\ ' i I ' : i I : -- 11 .11 ; ." 1 i .;:'. i . 
 
 I > ! '1 I" iM-i! I" I'- ini iK'.ii ii:' I l!i,il -" l.i' _ .1 I .iM ". 
 
 W. -:i,.: .-1' I i^ I,' '.'.!\ !r,::i: i', ' ''! II \"n\^ ilk" ,1 '>!;,. 
 
 : I I > ' ! ', IT:' !.. 1 : : i ' . - - - ' 1 I : I ! j ' n i ' . i ' ' , 
 
 ' ! : 1 1 1 . all . - ' 
 
 ' '. ', I ''"' ' '.^ " ' ''' 
 
 \- l. . I ,\ : I, . ^',"1.. ''1 \\ ' ;:;, - " : . >I '. 
 
 T ;-in : h ,' l'\-, \ 
 
 il ' ^'-i ,il;,.;i. 
 i. .Ill * - , '
 
 29c2, A JOr-RXAL 01" TRAVKL* fcV 
 
 look almost like changeable silk. Opulent faiiiilies iiavc 
 diirereiU horses fur iiii^lit service and h.ard work, and 
 stormy weather, these beauclAil animals being kej)t as a 
 meie pav/.'ant, and inainta.ined in luxury and indolence. 
 
 S!P. JOSEPH BANKS' CO.N\ EKSATIO.NK. 
 
 i iiere are a number oi' lltei-ary assendilies in London, 
 tor the piirjjose of conversation, where a stranger has a 
 bitter (spporiiuity thui! he can enjoy in any other wav, of 
 -eeiiiSj I'le distliignished men of the metropolis, and oi' 
 formini; <ui orriiir.ate ol' tl;e English character in its most 
 iatpiroVv\l, iiiteliigent, and j)uris!ied form. The most dis- 
 tiii'^aished oi'tiiese meetings is held at Sir .Toseiih iJanks"-. 
 and i fonnd th:n tlic gen'leijiei witli whom 1 was walking. 
 we.egoingr to attend it. M'hen Mr. Watt incjnired wheth- 
 er I had been introduced at this meeting, I informed him 
 ihal I had supposed inys('if precluded irom calling on Sir 
 Joseph i'anks, as i liad left a letter of introduction with 
 my card, on my hrst arrival in London, and had never 
 heard an\' thing I'ariiier on the subject. He assured me 
 that it would be perfectly in oriler to call again, as Sir Jo- 
 >e!)h, in conse()ueiu-e of the numerous demands on his 
 lime, w:!s, !)v liie universal consent of societ\', excused 
 iViMii tlie c',i!r.!-:on obligations of ei\il;ty with resjiect to 
 retiii'uing vi:>i(s and s* iuling invitations, and v\cv\ stranger 
 will) had been iiitrod:;,_ed to him, was expected to cal! agaiii 
 .is a mailer of course, i luui learned t!ie same tliing, a 
 da}' or two before, iVom Mr. (ireville, and had acciden- 
 iall\- iieard tliat inquiry had been made by Sir .Joseph 
 whetlu'r ( had ealk'd. I was tlicj-efove vi;ry happy to j)ni 
 myself midi r Mr. Wa;i'> j);itro!iage. and tit a((;e[)t tlu- ot- 
 '"i ] V. Inch hi- kiiv,!l\- in^id" to iulrofhiee me.
 
 jN'.l \\!), Mnl.I.VM) \M) ^l iM I WD. J.J- 
 
 ^|. I. ii-jiti.'ii u ;i^ -^'-ic;i ;i> |m 111 ik>' 111' I" !. t ill.'! :!:, 
 !.ii>i;i'..i' I; I'l iioi lii-cii --,)ii:ii-|- curi i rt.'il. ,;iiil i\i v\ fWili.'i- 
 1 --'ii-iil \\,i^ r>'i'ri\r,i 'i\ till' (omt'lnl^ lu'li i\ioiir ; tlii^ 
 
 . \i '>;.!!'ii 111.11!. 
 
 >ii ,'.'^rj.!i Il.ril.s is vciju'j tiuvanl <.M .1" : li'' i- ii' ' 
 ;i!|1h-I.-,1 u :'!i lii.- i|t. ;:;.! \\'i\\\ tiiis r,i;i-.r, is v.. 1 :,,. it , 
 lii\'. ,)!'> >i.i i:,in_'. \s iili III-- ;ii.l Ml' ,1 -I ilV. I!i> li'-ail i- \\< :- 
 ! i-'!\' w 'lit'-, li' > |"-:-'i'i t..'l;';ii! 1 ;; ;i-, ;iii'! lii< v, li..'.' ,^-- 
 ;) >- ; r ( . ' , . iin ' til' i-i--!i ii.'l ! III! I cm;! iii iii;:" .-- 
 hi <>; i!i(' iI- : -, il >ii , I !,, ill I i 
 
 ' -i;iN, ';'' I-. /iNti.i_;ii>';. ,; |\ Tc;i\i';:lil /.'.'"!- 
 
 \'"V-';i- '< |i'-",".i'" Ii;.' r l;|s.' I s -;. ,'r,', I .."i;i!!\ :;( 
 
 , I- .i| li.ilil ' . ,' . .: 
 
 'i\ '"' ''.: '.".i c-.-i. I-' t. .1 !J',ii 111' 111' 1! '<.: i-\ . 1 1 !'. -' !; > '- 
 
 !'''!ni' M' ,!ii,,; '-. W . ;,.,:: ! >"|- .',;, ,'< in 1;' , li!);, r' 
 
 ' ' ; ii'.\ t! ' '! I ill' '.; 1 ili. I" '' ,1 11 ! I'.s. ::;i.l [' '\- 
 
 - ; l:' - I " I 'I i-MI. 'I'l"-' ( i.-i'' ,' i,i, I- ',: I. ,111.' 
 
 !': N '.:' i ll"i '-'...K'-ir t\r Ml.'.' i M.;-;r. M ,-. \\..!I 
 
 '^ I- >" 1 :ii I'v'' ;ii-- ->i--\ i:i I'i- ;,>-,! r.:\ .'". iii- 
 
 ... ; u'l ,,1 !'' :j.-n!l.'.',' .;' ! !: ' 
 
 I . I \ ~ . 1 1 : 1 . 1 ' ' - i ' 1 1 1 1 "',,;. I \ ! I ' , ~ I , I ; . 
 
 !,i:i;-. i; \ ' ;\ ir'M'li. ,:ii.; !i:i < ' \ Ch r ; " W "l"! ' ! .. II ' \ ' > ! i. -i 
 'l.ij. '.I i in , , ', 
 
 Ti,-- ' ' .' :iiii-i| 1': >> :- lii.- '" I' . ' 
 
 'I'lM \ I ' - ^. ' W ' , I 'A 'M -11 !i\ il ,,1. 
 
 A;:; : A ' . , ii (..i;. i-i . ! :;,;> 
 
 <- I j 1 1 ; ; \ . I ' ; ; I ' : I ;,!.' i ' ; . i . - ' . 1 1 > , 1 1 i . . _ , , 
 i lii.i:; NI <]i':- l!'-iiii. I. 1 1''> !i iiiri'i^ -n" - ' ' v mi- 'I. 
 ;i!( i ^" '11.!' I :i.i'i .''.! , 'ii.il 111' III,':,' ' ' ' 'I I ~ii ' :' 1 I 
 ; ' I, i. Ill in ': ' ' :'' : iIhI'a iliisVni'.i; . '
 
 'ilM A .T(>i;r,\AL OF Tf-AVELS IN 
 
 the ImcucIi to make tiioir lausjuapf tlse pollie tongue i>f 
 iiliii'ope, the English uould uhiinately become the mosi 
 prevalent hmgiiage iii the world. This lie inferred front 
 the imntense countries in Asia and America which were 
 ah'cady settled or fast settling with English people. W'hile 
 conversing oji this sul)iecl, he uttered the followino- extra- 
 ordinary sentiment, lie said, that the AinericanH had 
 h'lproved the English languaire, hij the intrudiatlon of 
 some ivords and phrases verij cnergilie and eonch'C, in- 
 stead of dijjuse circuialociitloti. To jny remark that liis 
 sentiments vvere niueli more favorable to us than those of 
 th.e Lnglisli reviewers, he replied that they were not al- 
 ways the m(-st candid men. 
 
 Among other distinguished men wlio were present, was 
 Dr. v\'(.!la,- ton, a cliemical pliilosc.iiher of ei.nnence, and 
 iSecietary of the Royal Society ; J)r. Tooke, tl:e historian 
 of Catharine of llussia; ?vlr. Cavendish, who has done as 
 i\i\\':\\ towards estal;'lishin<j tlie modern chemistry as any 
 iiian livin:ir; Dalryn^ple, the marine geographer ; \\ ind- 
 ha.p.!. lie Fariiainentary oi'ator; and Lord Macartney, fa- 
 n!r-;is \:)Y Iii,-- cnih'is'} tvi Chiiia. 
 
 !'>csi;'e these there were m;tny otliers amotig tliose who 
 have (hslin-'uished themsehes in srioite, politics, or lite- 
 ratMre, am! v-liom it was '.iratliyinL'" to a stranger to see. 
 
 In this ;;sse;nii!y ii.e' mvi^t ;,:ei'i""rt case (if inanners pre- 
 vaik'd : iliere uas aiMH'renuHiy of any kind. They came 
 ;j.n<l d'p;rli:d when liny ptrused, williont (re-lnrhiiiL'' any 
 In-idy, ;ind those pr-",; nt sat er s{v>0'!, or walked or read, 
 \:v cc^nvi'ised or )t'iiK;in':d siU'i;!, ;; j,!caMn-e. Eating and 
 drinkini: hiinicd no part <)f the eHtcMiiinuient, nor was an\ 
 iliiifj pro\idt'J for this piirp'-e.
 
 \i.l.\M>, ll'Ml AM) AM> -.. II. \N! 
 
 'l', 
 
 il.iiil^^, '- i! lii)' !i_\ ;.! lui.iki I-! il ir> !";>. K in i.".-lcrk. 
 
 .11'. i I.I li. 'jll' III ill^ !l')',!r\ .l!l'i MiU-t MM! ,it .i;i'. tillir \f- 
 
 ;>> I li'.;! li'iriiii! '. <> '.^r':^ i'. ^!. i\.iA ii,i\ In tii,> 
 v\ I iv i'N<' jil >iiiii!.i\ . 1 :i ti! iii,!';!i > - ;i\ ..'i 111 \ -i-h fl 
 lii'' |n is ilf::r ..i ih-' lili: ;: _\ li n jM";''i v. .I'llinMuii I :ii'i\ ;i"; 
 
 ;,i:i!.l|i- lll.!l\i- -II IMM'Ml U>i' 111 l.li- lli".l!s!,l-! .!> ,1 I I'MU'll 
 
 1 A, !iM i- -.irl 1" lr.\>' .!mM' . 
 
 I'lii- milt. Ims'imu ll'ii iV.'Mi i!m jiiiilui'n.i' ill 1 r.iij . 
 . 111.! ,\i < -^ .i\ ^11 .li'-i jiii r. im!%>'. !i;i 111.; i'i.ii lilnr.il 
 I Ti jiii.iii \s iiiiii 1- !si;i i\'. a 111 I \< .1 .;i'i' I ./.I' lir- Ih m,-.i'. 1 1 i\ - 
 ilij ii;-. ;rr-t... ill |';:!l ,i pilliin hi r:l!^t,l^| \\;i- rcti's f\(>rv 
 iM"iii.ii:. ; wliiiii .'^11 Jii-i|ili \\.i- ,i!\\,i\- li:i|)ii\ 111 st^* 
 iil> Ui. I1.I-. ll rii.i-!; Ui'.l till' ill\ ll.ltiiUi ill llli' lUii-l liirial 
 .Ml.] r\!i n-i\i' iMi-i'. ;iiiil ;i' li!;!iy Iim'v i!|i in- In. .ml tln'ii' 
 r..i- 'm;i iiir ,! .1 i:,i\ . .uhI c:iiiir i.i Im'm'^m-i i > jmI.ii I\ . till 
 'III' -1\- l.ii.K- ; ;.ii 1!)' j.iiiii'j -III IL'- wl' till' -i'!\.iMi- i.uiiilil 
 j.iiii lii.il ill I '.iijl.iii.l. .1- Will a- 111 1 iMiH'i'. mill'' i- onm 
 '^.iiii ill. Ill I- i."i .mi.* 
 
 >!i .1.-1 j.ii il.ii'. " i,' : - i- \ ;\ c v|i ii-i\i . ;" ., I iirl\ ,iir 
 (..!.. II! 1 i'- !! ' ' % I ~ .!i' .! h's -:li ,11 1 -mi- \\ i, ' li,iM' !-i I ti 
 |.; . .;ii I i\ i',:: . . i;. I .1. >'r .lo-i ,iii ii\ i - in 11 lii'' il'ji'ilN 
 
 I.I -I ';. ; r . i . , ' - .. li: ilj; 1-111 Ci ll'- I.iiil !\ .lllrii. I'M : IM 1 II'' 
 
 I ^ u 'M" ,' ,1. 1 ll iiii-i ! ! ;. iiM !i 1 .| li'.iniiiU'. 
 
 'I 1;. ,1 ..; . - . I iii \i . \\\ ,\ -1,1 I I ;.'.i N-. >il .'. ' ''liil call 
 
 \| . .! : . . i: 1 1 1 -. 1 I i; ;- ill' I Mill I-- -I '. ';, i ..I >'i- ir ! ;i' 1.111. ! < 
 
 . II 111 .1, '\ i'. I ; ', -ili;i-r iii . i-m:..; lini'...! : i -i.iii 
 
 , , - . . : ! .1 1 
 
 : .11 I. .Ill ' ...k . M ( l;.r 
 
 ii' .Ml- :
 
 SOt'i A JOURNAL OF THAVKL.^ US 
 
 much larger than the salary of the Fresident of liie I'nlted 
 States. 
 
 Sir Joseph Banks' efforts in favour of science, have nor 
 been those of a mere stiulent. Yon will reniembei- he ac- 
 companied die celebrated Captain Cook in one of his vo}- 
 ages, and in the narrative is mentioned under tlio name cf 
 Mr. Banks. Dr. Solander, a learned Swede, was also 
 with Ui:n. 
 
 The sanie gentlemen also visited i.he Island of Iceland, 
 and we have an acrounr of their chserv rations in t'le let- 
 ters on Iceland, drawn np by \ ;!:i Troil. who was al^o of 
 the j^arty, inoro than thirty years since. 
 
 On the whole, there is no ma.!i in r.u'iiand i-etter enti- 
 tled to lead ia science. th:in tills eniiiK'iU veteran, and I 
 imagine the august assembly al his Icxh-s, would give a 
 stranger a more tavonraine idea of the intelligence and ur- 
 banity of the English tiiari any olher wliich he could fre- 
 quent. 
 
 Xo. XXY. LONDON. 
 
 Bromplon (janlct Chi.-lsca C4arden Che 'sen Hospital Beaut 
 of the j^roiiiids \'elt,'raris Saeipijers of Cariiiu'ic vJU'arigei* 
 easily distiiigiiiftlied in Londoii 3U;tid)rai\',s \ery munertius in 
 Loiulon Refuge for the (k-.-,litiite Inadeiiuacy ot tiie ridicf 
 ad'orded Ity iiuhlic and privaie cliarity A successfid hcggar - 
 Soldiers and ;;ailors. 
 
 ERO.MPIOX AND CIIF.Le-E V GVRDEXri, 
 
 Jiih/ 1. A\ ith a coni|)anion I \valJ;ed out this morn- 
 iu'r, to the l>olanicai (iardcns at JJrompton, a mile and a 
 m\[' from JIvde Park corner. These an; the gardens
 
 I \ ; *.Nn. fi'tii. VM) .\\n ~(<'>'vi. \\\>. 
 
 Hill' 'ii \s >[< 1 iil;i\ ,it'<i ii\ ill'' l.i;' Mr. ( ui li--. .1 man (!i>- 
 
 " -li. ' I'lf |,i> 1 1.. Ill ;',(, 1 1 kiMU l-'ii'_i'. .r'.i well Isi:. i\\ ii tij 
 
 , .1 .i\ ill'' I'ni.imi' il N|;ij;i.'.mi' w ln'ii lir r. .miii' i.-.l, 
 
 :, ; i \\ :\\\ \ii\ hiMUliiil c.rliiin.ii in,'i.i\i:i -. lii-- 
 
 i ' . .ill - ,11' 'Hiw ]i;i:i!i-l!'' i. \\ III) lict.iiii'Ml |iriii!-. -'1 |"i- 
 
 'iis il"i:.'. till! ;:ii \ I'liik .i!iv(iliiii|\ liki' inih': ll'i\iiT- 
 
 . ; i I l.iiit-. i \i^it'.l lli>- 'j.ir.l'iiv Willi ,1 |i 11 lu''i!:ii' \i<\\ 
 
 ' '.-'' 1 ::i ill \ui' tin 1- l!ii'\ \^nii!. I hr I -r ll-i l'> I!!' ill !'. '!v- 
 
 .: liHii' 1.1 '' r l!n' r'|i;ili-|ll^ nl' l|iil.lll\ . |.i U lll'-'l i \'. 1 -ll 111 
 
 : '. : N M : 1 1 ' 1 1 1 ; , ' ; - 11 I i i ! v 1 1 1 1 1 1 . 1 ' 1 . I 1 1 1 1 I 1 1 1 ' I '. 1 1 \ - 
 _ i-,l' Lil;iM'i. 1 -::.i!l lie iltlll'tl I'l \ i'-il tin ill ,1 |'|im>- 
 (1 '. ,i.!,i .. m,iiv<' II-'' "l' a liiiiaiiii'a! li! imi'n w iih ii i^ !\< ;! 
 ', '!,. .'as. 1 .1. ail 1 uMiu r. i.i\ 'ili''P.i'' - JiT >!ii.i'> \'. iiii 'i it 
 .iili'i'i-. 1 tiii.ii^ I >irill MiiiictiiiU'^ iiialM- il all ali"i ii'i'Mi"-' 
 I' :i rat i;;i; 111 .' ill'- \v .irai w 1 alia ;'. I"r. u !i at 11 11 hi- a iin ! <" 
 'iaii':'i! I .;; -iiiii' lit lliaii I'l >'\i'li.in.'' iIh- ijii-aiv ',\ ilh 
 
 U'.'l 1 i\< nil iT till' viraiii^ llii' iii'i^''. ainl iIk' iiaiM r-a.l 
 
 > I iiiihIp .'I I .laai'iii. ha I la- 1 |i;li't . I iir li aL'iaia a , llir iMau- 
 ^ . .lai ila' ill-!: ai ;'i a; i<', I la ( taiii' 11- "I I'lia an; ii ' ai. 
 
 ^\ i'-.aaij t.i cwaiMii I' ila ~i' '^'afl' 11 - w illi l!i"-' a! '. In !- 
 -I .1. w ' \\ alk'-i ha,; a aal'' I;m tlaa ;,. iIimm. \\ c Inan,! 
 ';a; lla\ l" I'.aj i" :i "niliaDX a a j > a ia aai a - i :: I .ini l":i, 
 1 1 a! I! a [:' I'' i'li'iu-i! 11 .>: I'i' i;' p.ii li'-aiai' \ a u -. 
 ilai , ., i. -- .irai-Nvil,!,' i,,,.;, il,, <-, ;,( I',! > a 1 1 ] il < a; . 
 
 I !j' \ Ml - .1 I.I in' ;i I m : .i Hi" ai ' 'alilii- ja !;: i ; '1' - 
 
 ' '' ' f" 111 ' .' -I ill lai- |i a, ; a I ; I'l i;i '.a'' 'ala I 
 
 \ 'i.a iiiii il " II .|i a >aa'-i 'I-, .1 Mini- "i i. '.' i''"'>-!mi 
 
 1 ' . : n; I. . (' - ^'' 11 .11,1 ' \ iial ' 1 1 111 a ' 'i r I' ' 
 
 \\ . -,:U h.'l.' a fnlk lia, 'n , ..<\K^'''. 
 
 a li.i' via I, a-' 1 1 \ri. ,r,' ! I' 
 
 I jila lit 1 1| (ill li.i .
 
 298 A JOURNAL or travels in 
 
 CHELSEA IIOSI'lTAL. 
 
 In tliis excursion we visited Chelsea l!OSj)ital, erected by 
 (^.'larles II. lor the reception of soldiers worn out; or disa- 
 i)led, in the service (if their country. The number of pen- 
 sioners at this time is about five hundred : the out pension- 
 ers are ten thousand, and they receive eacli twelve {)ound 
 a 3ear. 
 
 The grounds connected with Chelsea hosj)ita] covci 
 about forty acres. The front of tliis hospital extends a'>oul 
 eight hundred feet, it is constructed of l)rick, and makes ii 
 liandsome appen ranee. 
 
 Nothing can exceed the beauty of the grounds about this 
 hospital. It stands on t!ie Thames, and every rural beau- 
 ty, formed by avenues of trees and green fields, is heighl- 
 ened by gravelled walks and ap]n'opriate statues. I mean 
 to describe mei'eiy tlie impressions which 1 received, for, 
 ' am well aware th;it the gardens are considered as !)eing 
 hud out in bad taste, because the lines are straight, yet av- 
 enues cf trees and verdant fields v/ill ever be beautiful. 
 
 \V"e were in the dinin'j-hal! \\lien th(>y were laying thr 
 tables for th.c veterans of Chelsea hos])ital. 3hi;iy of then 
 are lio:ny a'ld bov.ed down with yc;irs. Here tiiey re- 
 pose, till the king of terrors shall sle.d silently to tlioii 
 beds, witliout the jUMUp and neise of haltle. and the iuur- 
 flerous we.ipons of wai'. .Mv rime did not iiermit me to 
 gratify the strong curio.^ity wh;( h 1 lelt to inquire in.t-.> 
 the' private history of iadi\ i(hj-''.> : to h-nra what "h.iir 
 breadth escape.-,"' ;?;ic'i one I. ad met with, ' in the inmii- 
 nent deadly bre.ieh," and to ! -ad him, iasi'u-ilily, to f ir- 
 i:et \\io d('ri-ei-iM(].' i. "' a^-e ;ovJ Wi>;"> N ku; 'S- ^^ii! iiif
 
 Nil \ M I . M I ! \ ^ 1 ' 
 
 1 I \ N i). 
 
 - ' "t 
 
 - \v t , .' W Ml. 
 I'l!, !,; :;:, '' ,i < I'Mi ^.Mi.-r iv. Ill , \>-y\ |i m ,,f it. 
 
 , ;' 'LiM'-. Ill- i'lV I- .1 -'"IJ. hi- -<IAhC 1-, ^1 \l If, ||is 
 
 Mii,i'iiii!s ::ti.lt. !li> il.ilrjris Iii'ijih lit .iilil i':wiii;iiin. his 
 ,.1:11 l.il,;i>!'';i_-i|i -il'il ;ill'l illll.llil' llti'i. ,111(1. il lir >.|l\ i\ 1'. 
 ^ ii> I ,1-c i - (!i ;,i ii,!,iiil, N .K':nit .illil llll-i'lahlf. 
 
 -M( i.i.rri:- (ir c \Miii;ic. 
 
 .///,'// 'J. \ hi II II :i \\ ( ik -iiicr. ;i- I \\ ,iv Ti iiiriiiii_r hi 11 111' 
 
 "111 [ill .^;i ;iiii!. ;i -iii>n f..i iii.iii. In a -r:.i i< t \* .li-tri ..it. ml- 
 
 :. ->i i iiic 111 ihi- -i\h : V'Miii'; 'j'-'iih ;ii:ui -ir \.iiir 
 
 1 >] >,, r,,f i\ t i;. -. ill -lirli i.ijipl -iHci --i,iii. in I'i'" 
 
 ; i|i -iiiM t, \> hi-ii iir I li,; iii- niiriiii |m in\ 1 u . <iii.i ^.'i, 1 
 
 I j.>\\ \ .1 . : \ ': !'.'' _:"! -'iii;i- u;. . | ii-ik h rainhr.i', 
 
 !!\i!i!h'i\ '" I ,iii-'.vi 1 I no ' aii*l u.i'ImJ (111. 'I'.'-i.n. 
 
 i HI- ] 1,1 -': ji- '!^ .[[>)_ ! Iiulinrii. a .! l]<n\ sinjh-i! 
 
 ; ! nil \\, 1! Il 111-- r\ r. .ill.i .' II'T I' iI iiiw ii:_; mr ,i t, w pan X 
 ' ,: . : ', li, ' .' !. -aiil. \i nil a ! 1 s . 1 . Ill' > - \ III i> : -a. 
 - ' . V, I! \ I ' I !:';\ a iilili' I' ; ii'ai 1 Miihrii' .- I ha \ ! -1 iinr \ !- 
 
 \ 111 ."" I '1 1,-! \ I . il! 1.1 it w nil il r il 1 ,iii- .'. '!> ,1 iM ' 
 :\ I'l ; iiiiuU : |.i'. wiial. tliMi:.'li| I. i-. thi'i't- ni iii\' .ip- 
 
 " ill- 11 laai.i- ih'-i 'illiW ^ If.i.-..' lilr In h i i, 
 
 I : .'Il laiiih':''. Ihi'S \s lat' iiiii!iiah!i i:l\ smiL. u'hi - "i 
 
 ', M 1: !' |i-. a; ; iiai ( il!l'l cvaili'ii i-l i!> .'r- i ;! I' la\s - ni 
 : ^ "In ai iMil-'anil s pi ai'ti-' ,1. 
 
 il I M , .^ ' hn A --,1 ill I n_ii. N ,,: a ! 1 i -i 1 : pt : i a | n \\ j ! 
 
 '.M iM. ..-'] a Iia'l.irr I'l l.i U.lnil. ( niiiaiiaiij !!;. ininli- 
 t .' .'. i.n. nil ;'i' II l,r-.I al I ;i a! Ill I'll . Ill' Il npnh-. s.;;nil< 1" 
 lalnl.jM ;h'' - ' I I-, -I r. ill ! Ill l'\rr\ ndlinll aral jnl,;, Il 
 
 '. !i' n\ I'l a sh. ji ia.a-, t.ii ir i - III |i . ! im w nil i'l that all 
 
 '' ' 'Il 'If. In; -Tail.;. ;-. I' H. |. ! i\ i-;: a m iii v 'i -
 
 3U0 >\ JOl r.XAI. OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 has l)0(:n accusroirtpd to large towns in other countries, 
 come ti) London, unci dress himself in the strictest fasliion 
 of the day, and from the shops of Enjrlish tailors, let him 
 walk fast ihioiieii tlie streets, as if he neither saw any body. 
 nor cared for anytliina', let him even strut and look brave 
 and knowinir, like a Londoner, still the rogues and beg- 
 rars will find him out. The former will track him in 
 crowds and assail his pockets, and the latter will pursue 
 liim in the streets, and supplicate his comj)assion till tbey 
 liave received a six-pence, and then pour blessings upon 
 his liead till he is out of hearing. 
 
 j\JE.\ Die ANTS, 
 
 July 3. As I was reading in my apartment this after- 
 noon, 1 heard a female voice in the street, sa\"ing, in a tone 
 of anguish, '' () ! tor heaven's sake, have compassion on a 
 poor distr(;ssed woman V Tliis petition tor cliarity was 
 addressetl to a servant of the house, who ha])])ened to be 
 at the door. 
 
 The number of bea'aars in the streets ol Loudon is ver} 
 jjreat ; in some streets they occur every lew steps, and 
 among them is a verylariie i;'0])ort!on ol'old women, and 
 a consiilcrahli' uundier of young womi'U with infants \i\ 
 thiir aims. \\ in n 1 lia\<' bestowed a trifle upon them. 1 
 have sonietiiues heard i'liLilishmen say, ' O these peoplf 
 are impostors don't mind them, \\iV\- niake a trade of 
 it."' 'i')j!> may lie, in some instances, true, and probahlv 
 is ; bu!. wlieii one sees aire, decrepitude, j-;;o"'-. eniaci^uiou 
 ,i\n\ (.\treni(; di'j(M tion. and that in a woman, conipassio:) 
 vill be awakened, esjjeeially when a w j-i.tched mothei 
 carries Lei' staiAiii" inlfuit In her arm.s.
 
 KN' I \n:). mi"'! I \ \n \ M) - 
 
 ii Is v:i,,i ili.i! li;'' iii^i'.KiliMMs m| 1 1 :c ( > ui > ; I % air Mil';'- 
 . M :,t tii [11 ..\ i,i.- i,,r i1m -r i.i.ijii.. \\ ;i\ ti,i n. a:-, iln <, 
 I., ii jiios iili',1 I'nr: ,111^1 ii. as I- ,i"i ri> .!. iii'A pi rl'fr a ui'- 
 
 I \ a'_raiii'\ . Ill till- w in ili v, ,nii j a > '\ isi. ai^ ,,| ;i i h i' .1 t < iiar- 
 ii\. \\ii\ li'ifv ma till' [i.-lia,' ta'v t!i' an up, aail i'!>!:_. 
 Mm 111 I.I I'l '1 i\ ' 1. la i III a ii'_'ii ir u a\ , am! In in iM- w Im' 
 - in 111' lati ia 1 lif\ i-aii !., ih.ar lal'.aiia 
 
 i'.at. I ;i< 1. i- nasi ,n ii 1 iitlii \ 1'. \'\,i\ in- i-l '.l' tin la .in- f. - 
 .Mi\ Till' \i. 1 1 iilii s w ia an ill. \ a i'l M ,11 1. 1 h' . .la- 1 ! iial Iw 
 
 hai-'ji' 111 iin|iiisiiiri'. s.i riiii-ta'ai\ i.iv' '1 a'.aai^i i!ir'..i. i^ 
 
 Inn ll 1 ijiaailK U I I l!l'Ji' nl' s, l;,vj||,, ,., W lli; il is jii lail inliV 
 
 Ainu jin\ I 1 ' \ aa.l snn, i iii'_' imm.!. lail [unjiiM' u m a jilia'- 
 Miiit riiaiiU Is iiiii. ..,'ili ii!\ 111 ,iii |. las. \i, In II >! is n,- 
 jin lit. lirraiisc it i iirmira'' < \a'j|-aiir\ : lua l!n' linlli 
 Ms til 111'. III. :i tin liijii |i;ni'n| j .r. i\ isn ais, \\,u:i 'a 
 laiLa.a'a" aa.! irii lai-. aia! lln \' r\ iia niiij" ii iii \\a::i's ui 
 
 ..i.'ji!'- Vtii'i ii,i\'' a 1 Iia !'. iiiiK' iii'iili laal s,iia-iiiij ai 
 
 l.".l':n'.. 
 
 \s ,1 [, I ill A il,, .,1 ail- ani ilm ' 11' la-.ais iiiij a .-ssioi'.. 
 
 I a - 1 1 11 ' r. \v !, -1' nj.j . ii I ii.a a s i, a' . I s, i\ ,;; n 'ii ha \ ' 
 ' ' I I! Ill a. -- a i! \ i I nil! I'l I. 1 \N lil I ma it a '11 .i lai I in pnim . I 
 'lis pn s.'i.t. ni'i Inii'j a_"i. ai ,i i.iiiin i in I ,i 'iiii 'ii. w la ir 
 \i |i' s'lUii- >'\ tin- iiinsi aiti\i prnaini' is .i| a m \s liuai.i.a 
 I -liiiila'.i im!Ii' a 
 
 i ! 1 1 , I ; r M . 1. ( . 1 ill 
 
 Mill 
 
 i .11 > '_ i\ ! Ill I laai pi n-jii I Ills. !i,an w iia li im Inili u - 
 
 Is .111 . \ 1 1 . : 1 I . 
 " I :i'- nli.i il 'All.' II tills ^mnl s li,|\ 1- III \ |i'\i , ,s 1,1 pill- 
 a- i'l 11' nl I i-l'i .', |ii| I 1 I s,,i,, .Pi,, Imi .', ,i I, ,,:,, |.| ; ,. ,,,. 
 'a" lii'k -, ana a tail ,u- .nal i|.s, n,- \ ;, m,,; ,. ..mi i li.i i ,.
 
 302 V JOURNAL OF TliAVELS l.\ 
 
 who, from loss ot" cliaractfr, or extreme indigence, can- 
 not procure a;i honest maintenance though wilhntr to 
 work."' 
 
 ' When it is consiflercd that thousands in this metropo- 
 lis subsist by dishonest j)ractices, whilst some, it is muc'i 
 to be feaved, 2)crit:h from want, before parochial relief can 
 be obtained ; an undertaking, t;;nd:ng to remove such 
 evils, cannot fail to receive the most general patronage and 
 support," &c. 
 
 That thousands do sufier here, " though willing to 
 tvork,"' and that some do ' perish from want/' there can be 
 no doubt. 
 
 You will see \h(^\o wretclicd beings sunk down in the 
 streets under the eves of the houses on the stejjs of 
 doors, or against the corn' rs, apparently asleep, but there 
 is much reason to belie\e, that they are, in some instan- 
 ces, finding a refuge fjr ever, from hunger, and the re- 
 pulse of pride, pleasure and aflluence ; that ret\ige where 
 the widccd cease from troubling, and the weary are at 
 rest. 
 
 1 am not insensible of the glorious pre-eminence ^vhich 
 this country holds above all others, in the number and 
 magnitude of its charitable institutions, nor am I ignorant 
 of the unparalleled extent of private munificence ; but, 
 still, t'.iere is something wrong where things are thus, and 
 these humane Englishmen who are foimding the refugr' 
 for the destitute, have proved that they think so to(t. 
 
 Another considerable class of beL^crars in London, con- 
 sists of those who have lost some of tlieir organs. 
 
 There is an unfortiuiate man whom I pass fre(|ueinly in 
 Ilo'born. whose lower limbs have be(Mi amputated, cl(.>s<'to 
 his body, so that he hus neither legs nor thighs, llo --il'-^
 
 I- N'.I..\M, li' 'l.I \ VT' -.Ml 
 
 . N.W. 
 
 .^U,. 
 
 iji.in a liltlf -Ir.l, \<i uii:' :i I ' 1- :.i-i' ;; <; l.\ -fiaj-i, aiv. 
 iiiM\ I - IiJiiimIi h\ci iirii! N. i,i.'. > lii' Jfil \\,\\\ IniM^' i.' a? 
 TNciy rtl^Mt. Hi;! li' i> liii i; -: mict-. :.;!!.. -mi i- | .,,|j 
 fi'iM. au.i that ''^ fY/ /-' f'( ' / .V _ <-. I ii' i.-.i-:. ;\ s--uih.;! 
 iilN ^'.'^ 1. u il!l li> ii ! 1 ' l:i^ hall.'. Ir.M !. \ r N,.ij, i[> dial i- 
 i\r\ti!!n al'.'k. I!:- ' i-i !:>>. r\ , a -|u;.;.-. iI.mjm, ni!\ . 
 aii'i ^ , Ii 111- '<" .1 !;- ;, IN- ill,,; a^ x'j. ai ^av - h.r lia- 
 latiiv _''!> .11 ,1 >: I'i'ji;;';- ia la ... ':_> ','. i!!i a ! a i ;. !i .! ^lA - 
 laal la, a lie 1 i.. ai.i-. 11- > 'M' - ,il; . : !aa- -Mi.'iilai . a:i' I 
 ha- lai aiia!'._ \ \v;;!itli"-i >. a.li ai . I ',..' mi' ! > ul I li> m 
 I ' ma; k^. 
 
 It !n a \ . , en,,!.!;.,!! ; ill!' ; In n- \.< an it ill 'm u !ai lia\ 
 !(,-; a 1' ' 'a" aa .irai. aa-a at pn ' 'a. tmhv' ;, ,,(lr'i' nuiiiinis 
 . ., -I iliiia- w i. , ! .i i'i. i|- I \ . . ill !',!' I ' V I,! iaii < . a'-.iitaai 
 rt!v !ii' ir_ lii. ir !'! '': ia . ia- -.:i-< 's la' I .mh |>.ii. '1 li; - 
 i,i: ! ! iiaa' i" a I i !;i; aai - ': ;':!;!. in I'a' i-ai iuiil: iIc'-.i i !> 
 a' i :. ' ' .ai 1 ^'ai '. !; la tia' i > ;' ^ 'i-M d laMi aial lijit. 
 ,iaa 111'' i,|ii\i iu' a la .:, ; i! ! > '.'. i \\ < \'-. ! . \ tin Im) 
 \\ ill.! : oi a la . ; ;'.. ,!a.' a. I kunw iinl 
 
 w :a. I!ii \ '.:;. ^la- \\ . 'jov -a hiiu iil 
 
 iai_^!il I I la' 
 
 ^.i:!.,;- li. ' .' ;ai\ ia.;.:'I 'hi' a ii 'lit- nailal.' i<\ \\\: 
 x!|,/!-,,, ,; a i,. -. -i'. ai . I'l ia,i,,'ll. hinhl i'.!' ^ ! I :iil' s 
 ^ f '-"/. ' -lallarj. t.'u .aim in v.^ia. -.A/ La^'/c/ti! f 
 
 as \\ 1,1 1 II IN t :.i !i 111- -I. a ! a. ir. i aa ^HT' : 
 i a 1 1 > a ! 1 1 ' ,a I -. a ami a i 1 1 , r - ; i ; I > r, , i a i \t\ 
 a 'a; -- i -a ili'' !l a ~a la , v\ a ii i > i! aini 
 ii-. :l'i' !',! ' ' -<':. (;' la- lli-
 
 304 A JOrRNAL OP TRAVELS iM 
 
 ioLis luxury, and tlie unbounded profusion of the fashiona- 
 lile world, who mi'^ht lind nobler pleasures in relieving 
 distress and providing for honest but suflering poverty. 
 
 July 4. The tlRn-mometer stood to-day at 82, whit:h 
 is high in this climate ; the heat was the more oppressive, 
 because the prevailing weather this summer has been thu? 
 far. vry cold, even for I'ncland. 
 
 Xo. XX VL LONDON. 
 
 'IhimiiiarKi!! wit'a inl'.ainiuahle L'as Its beauty Xalnrc nJ Iht 
 t'onti'h ;.iiifC -Tlio roj-al socicly A picture gaUery Deiincr'f 
 iaiigiUei A iHiJU'ni<;- [.ioce Jo.-cjpIi and l'oti|)!!ai'"s wife At- 
 'eaipt til delineate JelioiahKiiviroi!' of London. 
 
 ir.Ll AJLNATION V. ITH GAS. 
 
 i had uecii \\\\\\ a ceimnanioii into Hyde Park, to see 
 
 :ae ^erpeiuuic canal, and the .'lock of swans wrdch ar^ 
 .-u.ffered to swim un nolcstrd upon it. v/h.en, on oiu' return, 
 ihroui^a ricudiJly, we were iiiiiuced lo slop, near All'any 
 iiouse, h\ an uhj( ^t of ;-<on!e curiosity. \n infjenious 
 apotlr.'^'.irv aiiii chemist lias contiived to !ig!it his shop in 
 A wvy b'UMiiUil i:.:i;;ner. by nioai:- (;f the iiidamaiablo gas 
 i,/i):ai:.cd fViiT'i -'.is-il coal, h i-- !he -anio tlii:"? with the 
 ; iiev.-iiod.'ii.ip of vi'liioh you Iriv hc.ird much in \nicrlca. 
 V,\'v.r. new i'liMi l/\' sv hi'di ini';!;'V <an be !n;idf. is o! 
 ''oar.'-.e \.'[)\ s!ci'i:t iu i.tnulo!!. as wol! .); e\ei'y whcrceNe: 
 I look ilir 'J'erty In^v.ever, cl' aivir.'j llic owncn' of tlio 
 ^hoji to i.er;;iit nK' i<i -of liis a[)j)aralns. lie ri'fiis<d al 
 tiiM. h\\{. tn\ WW -d^vAnm \n\\\ that J wa*^ not a co)nnierc\a.;
 
 i. V . Mi, II' ! I A M> \n;> -i ! I ' n :. 
 
 s(l. 
 
 i Ir;uliii_' ;ii;iii, aii'l w.in ;i<(:i:iti-'! S'lli 1\ i \' cn! ii 'vit\-. In- 
 L' ii^i-iit'il. .111. I b><\ mi' i'. '.\ 11 I'l il.ii'. 
 
 'V\\i' i:;ii irti:r.;iM'- L-is 1^ cMricati-c!. smijiK !i\' ln'.itiivj 
 I'.iniiiion |.iv,|l ,',ial in ;i iiini.irc. \\\\]] ;i [iiii]ifr iipjciiiitiis 
 I'l j III -s -III I'l. (>' ijM' 111' I lie l:,!-. ill..! til (I i; 111 II! t it iiilD ;i 
 I ir_'i' \ . >vt 1 ,,] \.. ,[, r. u lii.il roil. !iiivr> till' [lit uiniiHiii> !!i.ii- 
 f'-i [I -I :ii!ilini: !,ir. lui'l -i >. i.-.l i.th' r |ii(i.iih;> u\ ihr .li-iil- 
 lili-'ii. th.il 'iM Ii.n ij;i III till' iMiiiciii'i! d'.;. 't. 'I'lir -;i> 
 lii'lir,' tl;:i^ \\.i-!ii.i ,i;|.| ] riri i;,-, |. iv :,l!ii\M"i tii ;iscri,(l 
 
 I 111 MU'j ;i :i 111.1111 1-1 111-, .iii'l I-- tli'-ii '1' -!i i:ii;Ii'' !. li\ I in ill-; (it 
 iitinT tu'i. > riilH't ii|..,l ill l!i!- vt, ;.,-!i;; I' i.|' ll:.- id.'lli. .''I,.! 
 i.r:'.!]i-iri;ij lili ii: < \c\ \ il '-ii'-'l liin rlii'ii. till. ;it ! i^I. tl.t , 
 ( ni:linu:ili' ll>' W ilii -i-.ilir. -, ,ilii;;_: ;!r' \\ .; 1 1-. ,i IM I \\ i; ll cIi lU- 
 11- !. i, i!i-ji.Mi''ii,'_' tfi'iii I'lji' I'l it, ill ^i.i ll il tiiii!::''!' Iii.if 
 till' '_ > i--:ii - ii; -;]. i.ii-. il I'l Ml ill.-. > -I'.i. .'..'. i \'. iii'K' til..' 
 r;!r,.i'.,'-> .'Ml' CMiiiilli 111! \ ji!. '' ;. '1 Ir :'' ll i- --i'' ''M l.li'.iiii'l 
 
 II .nii> \-i'! A !ir luiiiii! I'l-. ' : i' : '.!<'. i'l "f. ,it i h i ; i 1.; iir \ . ;;;;i.l 
 II' ',!! ilii'i; iiciii'j iiii:;icl'ii;i^, |i ir : . .iii'i | " unli . ;. .iiui <.', :i\ ii.'j 
 w It ij < '. I ! \ ill i' 'i ' .| ::ir. ;'ic'\ !i ;\ > .I'l < ili ri ,'|i,;. .^; iii ' 'c- 
 ;il. :miiI -I'-'iii :i- i! I'll 1 1 .'. ' I '.i iili :i l.ii!.! I'l 
 
 'i ill' ,[- i^ -nliU t;:.li - ':,:; ' 1 ; ~r..lii li. . . . :i ;-. 
 
 \' '.' 11 !i 1' .| i;- I'll ' ! - ' '1 :! ; nil- : ;ni. ! . . i; ~''. .' ! . . . i, i:,.. 
 
 ' III" \ /]< \ '.I t"! ;ii-> \'. 
 ,:.. . , > . ;.i IJ- !, iii'..' t ii.\ lit ' . 
 
 i 'A - , - - ::i' : lli.t i:,i \ ll.i'ii 1 l''!- Ill" ! ' ' ', 
 
 , ' !.;' ,i| III 1.1 ill' ri'iMi . . '.. ''.'.I 1 i 1.! 
 
 '.'.:., . - 111 '! u 1 11 ;i.l ipti ' 1 i ' - : ! .. : I'l ii:;:.! ' i 
 
 , M'^. :.- i':i |i' ;> ,;,i n 1 ..ii I'l - in .! i . , _ i I: ' I \v ! . ir , i 
 
 ri..;! : l!:iv ..:.'.; i;;, \ !;;, \. .it.'l I \
 
 30G A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IX 
 
 The cxponse of the apparatus, and its liabiht} to acci- 
 dents, tuiiv.s another obstacle of magnitude, and, en the- 
 whole it is probable ihat it will not be generally adopted.' 
 
 t:ie royal societv. 
 
 1 was inlroducod here by the kindness of Sir Charlc:-; 
 .f'ia<2(len, to whoai I had been indebted for other attentions 
 and wh.i hatl left my name with the door keeper, with 
 piopcr directions for my admission. Sir Joseph Hanks 
 was 1)1 tl;e cl;;t",r ; he wore a cocked hat and a star on his 
 br.'ast, and his scat w"aS considerably elevated above the 
 g( -.i'.;;"! level of the room. It appeared to be a full meel- 
 ir;.', 'i lie tUiartment was ornamented with portraits of 
 i^k:! ii'-ui!; ;:'.slie(! as ciillivators or jjatrons of science. 
 
 The ;'-ecretary. 5>r. Wollrston, was reading a paper con- 
 Taisiiii'i an acce.unt of tLe aiialysis of a new variety of the 
 ston>. c:ill-:il zeolit!'. It was, of course, merely a recapitu- 
 htion of ci: .'luical proc>^';ses, no part of which would be 
 i'''':-r;,Miin',r lo von. Th/is wa^ the whole business of the 
 c,-,'a;i!'r. exi,( j)!: tiir- ri''r/LSsion of some new members. 
 TiK.' 5 i;-.s''ient tlien adjuurned the I^ociety, till the 7th 
 
 of An> .;;,!;,>! iioxt. 
 
 AU',^ I..;'' one :na\ l"arn from their traus(if/ioii\' every 
 i:iij '!! trint arid iiitere-iiing factwi^ich occurs intln'rosal 
 f;ocicly, still, it is a source of rational s.uisfjciioii to ho 
 
 * Air,', ir IS. Thi^ iiiK(anc(! inc!>!i')iieil ill the tr-xt proved Imt 
 tho lie; ii'iuiij; In Lo;ii!i)ii. It is well kiiow!; diiU Uih{ cily i= now 
 ( 'ui'iisiN r-l y lighted tiy trii-, fuid in'<i!);i!jly iitly niilc.T of pij'O iiiivo 
 111 ( ,1 !, iii iif)'.\iiiii [,((i,(l,)n. It rcinaiii-. yel t(i I'l' srcii wliclher 
 t':" '.h'.'v.r ^' id jK'v its \>.;.\- ill till! Iiiiii;- run : iir>i!,alily il wilK luit 
 t'icri' i< iiu I'^'as!).' lo iMdicvo il \\ ill e i(;i' aiis^MT lo inlrodiice il 
 i i1(. I i!\-.t.i' li.iiiM'-, Hide.--- tiicy arc so --iliailcd iis Id be supi-liod
 
 jjii -''u: r.i iHp n\ |1|. iii^t veil iiiii'ii- i,.-,,i. - 111 ill'' ui'il'i ; 
 
 .1 ^i"i'I\ \^ ill' 'l li.i> in I'll llM! II, 'II, 1 |i\ ill, jilr.; ! ;i(\ m' .. 
 
 N'-wlmi. iiii'l \vlin>c ji,iii.!< |iri'vi-iit i m.'.-v ni' vi-|,'iu;' 
 uhi. ii h I- |n"!'.iliU M"i li' 11 ,'ii |j;iNsril lis thr i\( : t ;> 'lis .: 
 ,i'i\ i.'"':^ Ill li ,11 1!. ,| iiMii. 
 
 Til.- \( .111- 111', ,.1 >. !. 11' > u IViii-. i:i;';'r t'lr cM _',.%- 
 . iimi.ut, .Ml. I ill' \.i',i"ii il lii-liiut.-. uii'li I ihc 1,1 w. \:d\<'. 
 il 1^ !|-i|.-. lii-l'l :i l"ii J I' 1; ill 111' 'i I is,ili_\ u il:i till- II"'. :il "^i'- 
 ,i, t\ "i l-.'M'i'iii. It ;- ii"t i;- I , -> 11'. lu ;i'.,'i^' lii' i.' ''"H- 
 I, ll.llilj ( l.iiiil- : ij"ril lii\>'i!"lli iiiin il. :ili I il i;,il,iii|,il 
 
 |l|f|;|iii, '> i,ll,-l \M .l\ ' lil'|^MK,^ li: lllllll|> III Th ii.-i . 
 
 i; i^ a u I'.ik:,'-^ ni imui.iii ii.ttuir \sii;i li iMi'jiit I" ln' i'Ji- 
 _ '. \ I I . 
 
 .!/': ,. \ .1;-;! '-;i!"!i !" :" tii-'ii. '..' r, i,iiii.i-,-''iir- in tin 
 . !,\ ,11.1 .;; I-. .iii.i ji ,1 ;; -'il II I . i:i |i.iiiii^;i_ . i- p' ''' '''> "-^ 
 I'l til' iim-l 'ji'iii-i i! I; iil> "I ti .i\i 111 I > i:i jn 'il~Ii' , iii'Ui- 
 liii-^. \^ I iii!i'ii\ i:i-i',iiiii .ili [in I' '1-1 niN I, I li,,' i< il 
 
 p'. inn ,,| lii:^ ril.,! irln , 1 will 11 M :m1\ 11. il \-r '.illy 
 
 iM .ill' i-:ii;.' ii. I ! -,.' ,i\ 11, J I'! iiu \i-i; :iii- iii.iiii:ij t') 
 
 li)' I; |. :. -. ( ..,;.. ... w irrii i. -.,v[ In 1 1-' "I lin' lilli-I 
 
 I',.; - ;i.llll'll:_ - ill I ill I l:.'i. I ^il.,!l lln I ' 'nil' ,\ f 
 
 \ I . , 'iriiii'- iiiijiii --Ml)- II! I'll" i.iijii.i' Ii-' 'i 111 
 
 :iil .ili'iii. 
 
 I : . . \ I 'i;:i .,i> i'." 'I I. Ill' h'l:; ':' ! i,irti;i' - "! 
 
 i' i ) ,' 'i. I i' m' -'i. I I' 1,1 il. < i'lii! III. ^,, I'M-li. ,111 i It.ii- 
 
 1 1 ii'_'i 'i ill I ; _ 'it l.iiji' I' I";'. 1-, li_ Ii'iil ii"i 111 
 
 . lillt I - n >. -'I I'. x,;\i I .).,||| VI I- 
 
 ;i i-^ i ; , ;i -' i 'a itii tin i!- t i.i .t 
 I !iiv r..ll. . 'i'-;! \\ ,1-
 
 303 A JOURNAL OF TrtAVELS IX 
 
 the duties of importation alone amounted to four tiiou>and 
 pounds, and that the total expense of removing it from Vi- 
 enna, including that of the building in which they are ex- 
 hibited, was twelve thousand guineas. 
 
 Description can do but little in conveying an idea of th* 
 beauties of painting; I will )ncntioii only a few pieces 
 wiiich gave me particular pleasure. 
 
 There is a portrait of his own daughter, by Denner. 
 which you wouid prondunce to lie life itself, and not a 
 painting; so po-i'ect is the very living tint of the skin, the 
 soft moisture of the eye, and the colour of the veins and 
 lips. Denner had been distinguished for painting the 
 heads of old ))eoj)]e with wonderful accuracy, and he drew 
 this, the only portrait of a youi:g face, v.hich he ever took, 
 to silence tliose who said be could paint none but old faces. 
 
 In the third aprirtoKut are two lai'w hunting pieces, 
 the one, o!' a wiM boar, and theotiier, of two stags, attack- 
 ed by dogs. T:;:.' vvilu bo'ir, after having made great hav- 
 oc amo;ig his canin>' ;;iif'!;:i-->, is at jc.igth overpowered by 
 numbers, ar;d sure] -, ', if ever swine had any thing of expres- 
 sion in his f;.';e, /i.'-v is ma.rked by 'violen.t indignation, jrriel, 
 and dcsp'-dr. 
 
 Tlio st;;'/s toi) are in tiie same desperate situation with 
 tiie boar. ar. i v.hiiethey are fastened upon, on every si(k', 
 by their furiosis foes, tlicy have a .SY'fw,;'/'g digriily in suffer- 
 inil, w!urh is enough to disgust one witli the cruel pleas- 
 ures of tiie chase. 
 
 In the next room are two pieces, representinsf domestic 
 fowls attacked by hawks ; while thcv are sei/.ing on tii'ir 
 defenceless prey, the co)i-..ternalion of 
 
 'I'lie crcstL'd cock witli ;iil his t'.'iiialr traits. "
 
 ..st;i.AM>, Ul>ll.^^n \sit s(,, .7 i ,nl). M>\i 
 
 uU'i till- ti '']ihia!i<i:i I'l [III (,!r!i.'-r"' Ijis . !uii!iiir_' t'l vii,-c,iiii 
 
 f!n- lial;l _\;ilii. ,iiC f \ j ir<_^.-''.l ill. I IIMIMl'i" vshlcil liclhil!,' 
 
 ^lll; 11 ilMiT cm I Tiiil. 
 
 I !i' II' i^ .1 (III till!' ni ;i u.iiniin r,irr\in^ ,1 caiMH' in ill*' 
 la;'%. :ii;il Iml tiir^: In r ii.iiiil li< Unr ii Im scii 11 it Insii tin' 
 >> iii'l. u !i<'ii- \\[r |,,ii lial tian-jiai-.'iu V of tin- liii-.'"'! ^. an I tin' 
 lull ri ilcci'hin 1,1 i'vht hni;! \\i \ tarr, aif inn^t Mir[iriMiiul v 
 -(' I mate. 
 
 'I i;'' |riinti'!> MTiii t,i I)as'' hi^ni \( rv foiiil di' iih^-par- 
 t.i'filar -^iinirt. I iir ail tlir -I..i\ of .lusipji ami li'i> uwi-- 
 I' I ^ will'. I III 1 .' w en- ill i!ii> <_m11i'i\ ihi Ii\\ . I liiaii tiui <" 
 painiiiijs 111' ill!- v!,,|-, t)\ liiliii- lit allies. 'Ihr iina<ji's 
 ill Iiufatiil liy - Hiril lAiii ail- ^uflirii'iiiK lii^limi. uii!ii"n 
 I 'i- .1: 1 I 'I ill'' j I' II' i I. ami \ III! mas ra^ll \ ima jiii. . I liai tin' 
 III ra!;t_\ I'! ihi' -mi.' Iia- n^'t ' aiih'il mmli in iiir !: ; id- ..|' 
 '.':< (.aiiii':~. I 111 n- M'.iii- tuiji^a /r ' n! ' 1 jin fn, ,'.<. a- 
 
 \- I I iilin I I'll' -I'M ii'!i runm. iIm' lir-' [M.-riii.- uiii.'h 
 I ai;'j!it m\ i-\f. \va-< a |iii|li;iil (^l i.;- ,,\\n . iai; ^ lii. i, !i v 
 < . I'.i--^ I i. I ri.,iM iiiil li i\ . mil. . ]s, I iImI a I'll hll i' 
 ' 'i'M 1; :\|' iliti'r"-Ii I nil -.. iiririi ; lull llii- w ,r- i.m' 1 I 
 ' ':' \ ' r\ liiH'-l la.'. -. I iirl;, \ , H,,' | i,i'. u ^'i,M i.'.I 'u..\ ' 
 
 \i- 1 ;: j). .\\ 1 I 
 ;. 1 -!, Ml : 
 
 1; ^ 
 
 i;i,..:iii -- ai,. 1 - : 1 11- 
 
 .'. ::',;': I I ' \ 1 1 I ;i -lull 1 'i 
 
 , . - 'M,-. I.M 
 
 ! I ! ','. . :; a i'l '11' ; > . I ' :i- 
 
 r. \'. .'I'rii - Mill- ]f<\K m I'l 1: - 
 
 irtaii 1 - ! :. ! 
 
 : 1 1 . a I a 1 \v i I ; ! I ! \v r .
 
 310 A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN 
 
 a most distinct and lively impression of this delightlui 
 countenance is present to my view.* 
 
 I wiil notice one paintinir n\orf,?<r\d that shall be the last. 
 It was a \'cyy feeble, jjcrlsaps a ver}' improper attempt, to 
 reach the a-.vful sublimity oi its subject. This was no other 
 tl'.an GofHhe Father ui his ^lor}/. Altliouch it was a por- 
 trait nf a figure resembling man, the artist had attempted to 
 shed aiuund it the icarful radiance, slirouded with the im- 
 penettable obscm'ity of the throne of Jehovah ; but on this 
 subject tlie pencil is iinpotent the strongest lines are fee- 
 ble the most glurinij: colours are faint. Let the painter 
 forbear, nor attemi)t to delineate the God of glory. 
 
 ENVIRONS OF LOXDOX. 
 
 At the close of a very warm day for this climate, feelin' 
 a strong impulse to enjo} , for a little while, the fme air and 
 scenery of the country. I wnlkcti with a conijjanion up 
 Ilolborn, to Gray's Inns, and thence to the very out-skirts 
 of tin* town, and into the country. JSotiiing can exceed 
 t!i<> beauty of liie environs of lx)iidon,in many directions, 
 (.hardens with every esculent jn'oduction in perfection : 
 ilowers and plants of ornament, as well as utility, either 
 frrowin2 in liie o]en air, or in green houses, which are nu- 
 merous and extensive; fine fields, cultivattd as if they 
 were gaiileu--, and without an inch of wasie irround : pas- 
 tures of creat luxuriance, grazed upon by ihe inn.uiaer;d)ie 
 cows, of a luiiie and bf^autil'ut breed, wh.ich supply Lon- 
 
 ' Home (lays alter, I visitei! this i;alleiy again v\ itli a IVioiu), a 
 inan (4" ta-ie iuul .-if-ii-t'. Wiiiioat dftfribinfc tlic coiiMtfiiaiicf, I 
 told liiiJi I had !.fMj!i iTiucJi iiiterosfeii hy a t'ac", in tlie stniMilh 
 ;'no:n, and ! ('(jiip-'.cd ii;;n to [joint uni li.c ti'n-l cttuiilenance thrrc. 
 \\i: had 'i::iiTr';y (iniv to c:i~t id-: I'Xv:.- ai'ound aini'nga ninltitndc 
 gl picture-; bvturt he tfii,;:le(.i uu > c;'y o;ie v, hicii 1 had adniirct!.
 
 f.XU. \>n. 11"1,1,\M AM> *t''>(l \M>. 
 
 ,.i I 
 
 umi ultli milk, aiul a lni^'liii_' )M'pul,iiii.ii liunxiii- (.. ,i!i.; 
 trnin iIh iih-IiiijioHn : .ili ii'.sc iliinj^ i-.Mii''!ii<' to livt lire 
 \ i'iniiv of I .fin ii 111 iIh' ;iir f i' a t'lii'' pi' I'M > , u iiii ;lii' aiMi- 
 I'lMiial liitii''vt cv'ili il lis -II iiiiirli lilr arnl fiii'll"ii. ^ (Ui 
 ui'il iniilcr-Iaiiil tln'-r ninaik- In a|i|il\ Ii; t!ir innin '! mtr 
 li'i. ill in 111 111 I' II I III' I .(Mil 111). W ill I ill a \ r\ 'i \\ mil. - \ mi 
 
 llil,! llii.vr r,imM:i> il,v,-'v. I !,.:;;wl,.\^ |i.,,'ii. I". 1 ir ;,-|irat ll, 
 
 W .1 iiK\\"iirtii i-iiiiiii:iiii, .,ii 1 a, Mi\' I'llii'i- : ju im i.iiii'j ma- 
 !i\ -ijiiarr mile- nldn ii\ ;'ii<";li i\ aii d U'rritor\ . sn iniir.^ 
 iin\v<'\iT ti' -li< \\ II- lii '. mill li .'.rrjlaiii hnh's lu ri,!li\a- 
 laai ; li-r tiif-i' jilari'-. -iih! < lla r- nl t'a' kiml in ililliTi'iii 
 pail- f'' r.a-laiiil. arc i^o; in''.: |i( !t 1 1 lirca i^c ilir_i. arr ]!- 
 iiiia'l'. Iiarr'ai. fur we ni'ii !i timl in liif iiThl-t ni tin in an 
 (y'/x/,'. I I'l rlik .-p"l ill till' .ic.-at iinl appar. ii;'\ a- pix- 
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