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 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 The following pages were not originally in- 
 ^ tended for the public eye, nor may they per- 
 SJ haps be deemed worthy public attention. 
 C5 They are neither the production of a philo- 
 o sopher, nor of a man of genius ; but of a 
 lady, who has witnessed all that she de- 
 scribes, and whose chief claim on the indul- 
 gence of her reader is authenticity. 
 
 The scenes she has endeavoured to pour- 
 tray, occurred m the order wherein they are 
 here related : the reader must not therefore 
 expect a finished and elaborate performance; 
 but a plain, simple narrative of facts, com- 
 
 a2 
 
 357121
 
 IV 
 
 mitted to writing while their impression was 
 yet fresh on the mind of the author. 
 
 It may be objected, that this work has too 
 much the manner of a mere journal ; but the 
 writer begs to state, that it was composed 
 during her tour, and designed only for the 
 future amusement of her friends.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Journey from Calcutta, in Bengal, to the western 
 
 provinces of Hindostan Description of the 
 
 Missionary School at Serampore — The governor- 
 general's country reside'ice at Barrackpore — The 
 cantonments, &c 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Superstitious observances — Tatties, hoMr made ; the 
 different kinds, and their use — Comocolly fea- 
 thers — Deserted village — Opposite qualities of 
 the tamarind tree, &c. &c , , , 9 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Description of a serai, or inn, of the country ; also 
 of Radge Mahl — The ridge of mountains — Peo- 
 ple who inhabit them— Obstinate adherence to 
 ancient custom— A curious anecdote 21 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Radge Mahl hills, palace, &c.— A peculiar kind of 
 
 , sheep and goats ; also of ^ence against wild 
 
 beasts— Description of a tannah, or pensioner's
 
 VI 
 
 PAGE 
 
 village — Ditto of the hill people, or inhabitants 
 of these mountains — Singular mode of guarding 
 against beasts of prey — Unfavourable prospect 
 for missionaries, &c 35 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Apathy of the Hindoos — Predestination — Monghir, 
 its chalybeate springs — Curious birds, &.c. — An 
 extraordinary machine for crossing torrents- 
 Mode of extracting wheat from the ears — Pecu- 
 liar properties of the neem tree — Advice to tra- 
 vellers in a foreign country Traffic on the 
 
 Ganges — Weavers' looms — City of Patna — Mas- 
 sacre by Sumroo, a German, in the service of 
 Meer Kossim, Subah (or chief) of Bengal 47 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Curious mistake — Hindoo marriage ceremony — 
 Unjustifiable revenge — power of parents over 
 
 their children Danapore, a military station ; 
 
 its productions — Soane pebbles — banditti 63 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Fort of Bnxar — Hair-byeadth escape from a tiger — 
 Ghazipore, a large jnilitary and civil station; 
 soil, produce, &c. — City of Benares, disturbance 
 
 at; the cause of it Anecdote — Insolence of 
 
 Mussulmen — Produce and manufactures — Im- 
 portant festivals, both Mussulman and Hindoo 
 — Ingenious mode of attack by thieves — City of 
 Allahabad, on the confluence of the rivers Ganges 
 and Jumna 76
 
 VI I 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Diamond mine — Medicinal gum — Cowardly nature 
 and avaricious propensities of the natives — Dif- 
 ference between females of Mussulman and Hin- 
 doo persuasion, with respect to their occupations 
 and pursuits — Arrival at Cmvnpore, the largest 
 military station in India — Journey to Lucknow, 
 the capital of the province of Oude, and resi- 
 dence of its Natvaab — Reception at his court — 
 His mode of evading the laws of his prophet, 
 where they were not agreeable to him — Humor- 
 ous anecdote Bigotry of some Mussulmen, 
 
 an instance of 91 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Arrival at Futtj/ Ghur, the residence of the com- 
 missioners for the upper, or ceded and conquered 
 
 provinces City of Furrukabad; its Nawaab, 
 
 produce, &c. &,c. Accident by lightning 
 
 Country inundated in a few hours, by a storm — 
 Cruelty of the Pindarees ; description of them, 
 mode of warfare, support, &c. ; happy effects 
 of their extermination — Extraordinary instances 
 of sudden death — Extent of territory — Conduct 
 of the natives in a state of desperation, equalled 
 only by the Romans in former ages — of Rajpoots 
 — Treachery of some native princes, during the 
 war of 1816 and 1817 — Siege of Huttrass — De- 
 scription of the blowing up a magazine of Gun-
 
 vin 
 
 PAGK 
 
 powder — Escape of the Rajah— The Jauts, their 
 origin, &c. — Plunder of Agra — Putting out the 
 eyes of the Emperor Shaw Allum — Description 
 of the palace at Agra — Secundra — Superb mau- 
 soleum of the Emperor Achar 110 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 JVrozaiarf— Native collector of revenue — Effects of 
 intense heSit——Ettamaadpore, description of — 
 Tomb and garden-house of a rich Mussulman 
 merchant and his wife — Fort of Agra — Wonderful 
 phenomenon — Chokidars, their use — Rash inva- 
 sion of religious ceremonies — Futtypoor Siccra, 
 splendid monument, palace, &c. — Description of 
 the Tadgv at Agja, built by the Emperor Shatv 
 Jehan in memory of his favourite wife, supposed 
 to be the most beautiful and chaste structure in 
 the world — Verses written on it ............ 126 
 
 CHAPTER XI. , 
 
 Town of Sdrseney—'Mvid forts— City of Coel — Sub- 
 stitute for yeast in rising bread — Toddy, its pro- 
 perties — Mats, from what made— Castor oil — 
 Wretched state of the people — Grass jungle — 
 Severe cold — Village inhabited by banditti — 
 Field of battle in 1803, near Delhi — Arrival at 
 Delhi — Reception by the resident at his palace 
 — Memoirs of the Begum Sumroo — Palace of the 
 reigning Emperor — Description of, reception by 
 the royal family; their dresses, manners, cus- 
 toms, &c. — Grand entertainment by the Begum 
 Sumroo 136
 
 IX 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 PAOE 
 
 A party to view the Kootub Minar and wonderful 
 brazen pillar — Tomb of Suftur Jung, Humayoon, 
 &c. ; also of the Emperors of Delhi — Extraordi- 
 nary prohibition — Effects of priestcraft — Danc- 
 ing girls — Recitation — Pantomime Royal 
 
 Baths, menagerie, and gardens — Singular cere- 
 mony Meerat, a large cantonment, arrival 
 
 there— Description of the country, city, &.c. .. 161 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Begum Sumroo's palace at Sirdamiah, lier 
 troops, &c.— Fatal effects of cold — A Brahmin's 
 conscience easily satisfied — Arrival at Saharun- 
 pore — Fancy beards, dress, and dexterity of the 
 
 Steks Sale of children Source of the river 
 
 Jumna — Fortified palace belonging to the Rajah 
 of Hurdwaar — Description of this extraordinary 
 man — Munglore, the simplicity of its inhabitants, 
 productions, &c. — Impenetrable hedge -^ The 
 peacock held sacred — Caravan of merchants from 
 Cabul — In what their merchandise consisted — 
 First range of hills near the snowy mountains — 
 Reception by the Rajah — Etiquette observed on 
 the occasion — Description of the hall of audience 
 —approach the mountains — beasts of prey — 
 fall in with a party of Sieke Rajahs and their 
 wives — Hurdoar, a celebrated bathing place ; 
 
 description of, name, from whence derived 
 
 Mode of establishing a village in Hindostan 
 
 Town of Tunkal, full of magnificent and costly 
 palaces ; the reasop why — Pilgrims — Waterfalls
 
 — Curious method of fording a river— English 
 
 shrubs and trees found on these mountains 
 
 Sagacity of elephants — Stupendous mountains 
 — Grass, like reeds, fourteen feet high — A wild 
 elephant kept at bay — Cross a morass — Enter 
 the RoMllah country — iYMg<?e6a6fld, the first place 
 where duties are levied by the British Govern- 
 ment on Persian goods — Sugar-mills — Slaves 
 from the hills — Excuse for bringing them down 
 — Their general appearance 178 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Extraordinary instance of sagacity in a tigress 
 
 Town of Nugeenah, its manufactures, &c. 
 
 Town of Daiimpore, its manufactures, &-c. A 
 
 tree scented like mignionette — City of Mordda- 
 bad, its inhabitants, situation, appearance, ad- 
 vantages, and manufactures Villages in the 
 
 Rohillah country, in what respect differing from 
 those in the country of the Douab — Productions 
 
 of the Rohillah country Bareilly, a city of 
 
 some celebrity in history, description of; its 
 inhabitants, climate, manufactures, &,c. — Kut~ 
 terah, the scene of conflict between Sujah Dow- 
 lah, Naicaab of Lucknow, and Haffiz Ramut, 
 
 chief of the Rohillahs Origin of the Rohillah 
 
 war — Trip to Behrmundeo through a thick forest 
 — Food of the native inhabitants, their pursuits 
 and resources Temple of the deity they wor- 
 ship Villages on the summit of these moun- 
 tains — Gold dust— Traverse the snowy mounta,ins 
 
 Plants of extraordinary beauty Dreadful 
 
 alarm— Dangerous enterprise — Fair held at Bel-
 
 XI 
 
 PAGE 
 
 lary — Humorous anecdote — All's well that ends 
 well -^ A wild elephant near the camp — Means 
 
 taken to frighten him away A bullock carried 
 
 oiF by a tiger — Climate of this terrific region — 
 A band of robbers — Proper months in which to 
 visit it, with any degree of safety — Jellalabad, 
 city of — Crossed the river lR,am Gonga — Attack 
 by a wild buffalo 20 1 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Trip down the country by water — Hints how to ma- 
 nage on these occasions — Loss of baggage — Boat 
 in a storm — Ingenious mode of robbing boats — 
 
 Quick-sands An annual fair for horses of a 
 
 particular description — Arrival at Poosa — Raft of 
 bamboos — -Beautiful scenery — Committee — Cli- 
 mate of Tirhoot — A wonderful gay spectacle-r- 
 Return by land to Meerat, near Delhi — Palebothra 
 of the ancients— medals and coins — Fortified 
 tower, the haunt of banditti — A sad accident — 
 worse and worse — Interview with the Rajah of 
 Huttrass — Wild hog — Visit from a native chief — 
 Marching establishment for a European of any 
 rank — A tiger hunt — Curious ceremony for young- 
 girls in this district 224 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Journey into the district of Bareilly towards Pili- 
 bete — Cross the Ganges — No trace of a road — A 
 useful hint respecting water for drinking — Town 
 
 of Amroah, for what celebrated Instance of 
 
 faith, and the reliance some Hindoos place on 
 7
 
 xu 
 
 PAGE 
 
 the judgment, of Europeans — An immense bed of 
 sand— Perpendicular bridge — Sagacity of an ele- 
 phant in the suite — Mephitic vapour, its conse- 
 quences — Angels or devils — Attacked by ban- 
 ditti — Visit to the town of Pilibete ; its produc- 
 tions — Description of a mosque there — Singular 
 arrangement for medical attendance on the poor 
 —Wild elephants, how to tame — Dock-yard — 
 Return to Bareilly — Rainy season — Perilous si- 
 tuation — Tent overflowed — Conveyed on men's 
 heads — Advantages of an eastern climate — Se- 
 vere consequences of a chill — More calamities — 
 
 Arrival at Meerat , . 245 
 
 A Guide up the River Ganges, from Calcutta 
 to Cawnpore, Futteh Ghur, Meerat, &c. ; with 
 the correct distances of every station, and what 
 
 their produce • 265 
 
 Vocabulary adapted to the Tour 287 
 
 Vocabulary adapted to the Voyage 29 1
 
 TOUR THROUGH HINDOSTAN. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 After a voyage of nearly five months from Eng- 
 land, we reached that city of palaces, Calcutta 
 in Bengal ; but destined as we were to join the 
 army in the upper provinces of Hindostan, our 
 stay in it was very short. After hiring boats, 
 and making the necessary preparations for a 
 three months' voyage up the river Ganges, we 
 started for the principal military Station, Khaan- 
 pore. 
 
 At the expiration of the war, in 1804, we re- 
 visited the Presidency, leaving Khaanpore in a 
 budgerow on the 6th of November, and reached 
 Calcutta on the 19th of the following month. 
 The stream at this season runs six miles an 
 hour. 
 
 In Calcutta we remained until the month of 
 March, enjoying the splendid gaieties of the sea- 
 son, and then set forward by land on our return. 
 Our tent equipage, conveyed on camels, was 
 
 B
 
 despatched a few days previous, that the cattle 
 might be more fresh for the journey. It con- 
 sisted of three tents, one used for sleeping, one 
 for eating, and a smaller one, to answer the 
 double purposes of butler's pantry, and as a 
 shelter, in case of bad weather, for our servants ; 
 two palankeens, each carried on the shoulders 
 of four natives, called bearers ; with a machine 
 of the same description, but inferior materials, 
 named a dhooley, (this latter contained crockery, 
 cooking utensils, &c. &c.) ; three small waggons 
 drawn by bullocks, for baggage, poultry, and 
 stores. 
 
 The natives in general, but particularly the 
 Hindoos, always prefer travelling on foot. Sheep 
 to be killed for consumption on the road ; and 
 goats, for the purpose of furnishing milk, are 
 driven on these occasions, and keep pace with 
 the baggage. Their march is performed before 
 sun-rise, at the rate of from twelve to fifteen 
 miles a day. 
 
 We generally contrived to send forward half 
 the establishment, so as to find breakfast ready, 
 and every thing prepared for our reception. The 
 camp bedsteads here are similar to those made 
 use of in Europe, and are transported upon men's 
 shoulders. The palankeen bearers have a tune, 
 not unpleasing to the ear of those accustomed 
 to it, which regulates their steps. Their usual 
 rate of travelling is from three to three and a
 
 half miles an hour, which they perform with 
 perfect ease to themselves, often indulging in 
 jokes with their companions on the road ; for 
 they are witty fellows in their way. 
 
 I was once travelling with a young man, re- 
 cently arrived in the country, who, being igno- 
 rant of their language, and rather of an impatient 
 temper, had provided himself with a long whip, 
 which he applied at intervals to the legs of the 
 unfortunate natives who supported his palan- 
 keen. This treatment they bore with great mag- 
 nanimity until it began to grow dark, when, 
 arriving at a bazaar, generally crowded about 
 that time, they set him down and left him. My 
 palankeen had proceeded nearly three miles be- 
 fore I missed him. Concluding that something 
 untoward had occurred, I returned in search of 
 him; and after a delay of more than two hours, 
 with difficulty succeeded in procuring other 
 bearers. 
 
 Barrackpore, the first station we came to, is 
 fourteen miles from Calcutta; the road broad 
 and good, shaded on either side by lofty trees. 
 It contains a number of good dwelling houses 
 for English officers in the East India Company's 
 service, attached to Seapoy corps. These houses, 
 which generally occupy the centre of a small 
 garden, are raised from the ground by two or 
 more steps, covered by a cement in imitation of 
 white marble, and surrounded by a veranda. 
 
 B 2
 
 They form two lines, running parallel with the 
 bank of the river Ganges, on which this Station 
 stands. This river is here called the Bliagaretti: 
 it does not assume the name of Ganges until be- 
 yond the influence of the tide, which reaches to 
 a village called Sook Saaghur, a few miles higher. 
 At Batvackpore is also to be seen the superb 
 country residence of the Governor General of 
 India, surrounded by a park and pleasure- 
 grounds of considerable extent. Through these 
 are a number of beautiful drives and walks, open 
 to officers and their friends. A menagerie, a 
 curious collection of wild beasts, a botanic gar- 
 den, ponds well stored with fish, cascades, &c. 
 are among the attractions of this princely do- 
 main. The Governor General's house is so si- 
 tuated as to command a view of three foreign set- 
 tlements on the opposite shore, viz. Chandanagore, 
 formerly belonging to the French, Chinsurah to 
 the Dutch, and Serampore to the Danes. 
 
 The houses at Chandanagore are detached from 
 each other, with a crucifix attached to the top 
 of each ; they are, for the most part, enclosed 
 within four melancholy walls, with large folding- 
 gates. The streets are characteristically dirty. 
 A spacious esplanade, parallel to the river, ex- 
 tends along the front, and several handsome 
 chapels are situated in the rear. 
 
 Chinsurah presents a handsome front to the 
 river. There are some good houses in it, with
 
 gardens laid out in the ancient style of dull uni- 
 formity. 
 
 Seramjiore was a place of considerable traffic, 
 when in possession of the Danes. Vessels of 
 five and six hundred tons burthen find good an- 
 chorage before it. It is at this time chiefly in- 
 habited by those whose finances will not enable 
 them to reside in Calcutta, and by English Mis- 
 sionaries, who have established schools for chil- 
 dren of both sexes upon a very extensive scale. 
 These Missionaries are permitted by Govern- 
 ment to use their own printing press, and manu- 
 facture every thing necessary for the purposes 
 of this laudable establishment. Their library 
 contains many valuable manuscripts in the ori- 
 ental languages. Amongst the students, at this 
 time, was a young Malay prince, who had been 
 sent from Java by his father to be educated : he 
 appeared a smart intelligent boy, about ten 
 years of age ; but I was sorry to find that they 
 had not been able to eradicate that spirit of re- 
 venge so peculiar to his nation. Although 
 scarcely a twelvemonth there, he could write 
 and speak English admirably. The habitations 
 of the girls and boys are separate, large, and 
 commodious, while the greatest attention ap- 
 peared to be paid to their health and morals. 
 Large gardens and a play-ground are attached 
 to each seminary, while a general appearance of
 
 cleanliness pervades the whole. All the little 
 creatures were occupied, and all looked happy, 
 to the number of one hundred girls, and a greater 
 proportion of boys, chiefly under twelve years 
 of age. The total expense per month for each 
 child is forty rupees (five pounds) for a girl, in- 
 cluding clothes, and thirty-two rupees (four 
 pounds) for a boy. Their studies are not con- 
 fined to any particular language or science ; 
 works of the best masters, diflferent translations 
 of the classics, plans for fortification, sketching, 
 maps, etching, engraving on copper plates, en- 
 grossing, &c. are taught with equal skill. From 
 these Missionaries, their wives, and families, 
 every description of instruction emanates. In 
 the printing-office were types in three-and- 
 twenty different languages, besides English ; in 
 all of which, they were printing dictionaries, 
 grammars, vocabularies. Bibles, &c. no one de- 
 partment interfering in the smallest degree with 
 the other. It was really curious to see them 
 making their own paper and types. Some of 
 their books are sold by permission of Govern- 
 ment for the benefit of the institution, but the 
 principal part of them are disposed of by the 
 missionaries themselves, gratuitously. 
 
 Serampore, with its white flat-roofed buildings, 
 presents a magnificent front to the river ; but on 
 a nearer approach is found to abound in narrow 
 streets ill paved, dirty, and offensive.
 
 From Barrackpore we continued our journey 
 in an open carriage, passed through several 
 small villages, over ploughed fields and com- 
 mons, without the smallest track to guide us, 
 enquiring our way from one village to another. 
 On the second day of our expedition, we learned 
 that Bain^ackjwre, not being in the direct road to 
 the upper provinces, we had been obliged to 
 cross the country in order to come into it at the 
 village of Amdunga; whereas we ought, on leav- 
 ing Calcutta, to have proceeded by way of Dum- 
 Dum, the principal Station for artillery. Had 
 we done so, we should have found a good mili- 
 tary road the whole way, besides having an op- 
 portunity of seeing the cantonment to which all 
 cadets in the East India Company's service are 
 sent on their first arrival in the country. 
 
 The following morning we pursued our way 
 through a large village called Jaggree to Him- 
 dunpoix, where fortunately our tents had been 
 placed under the thick shade of an adjoining 
 grove, or we should have found the heat ex- 
 ceedingly oppressive. The hot winds set in, in 
 this part of the country, generally about the 
 15th of March, and it was now the 4th. A 
 short distance from this place brought us to a 
 causeway of considerable length, (scarcely wide 
 enough to admit two carriages abreast of each 
 other,) thrown across a morass, and from the
 
 nature of the swamp apparently very insecure. 
 There are no hedge-rows in this country, as 
 there are in England, to separate property ; 
 but the natives make use of a land-mark, agree- 
 ably to ancient usage.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 The villages in Bengal differ materially from 
 those in the upper provinces of Hindostan; the 
 huts of the former being composed of bamboos 
 covered with matting, while those of the latter 
 are uniformly built of mud, and thatched. Those 
 of Bengal are generally found within groves of 
 the bamboo plant, having small round granaries 
 near them formed of the same materials, but 
 raised a few feet from the ground upon blocks 
 of wood, not unlike those that support our wheat 
 ricks. The habitations of the natives in the up- 
 per provinces serve also as a receptacle for their 
 grain ; a deep hole is dug in the centre of each, 
 lined with straw, wherein it is deposited, and 
 by that means secured as well against the wea- 
 ther as against marauders, with whom these 
 provinces abound. 
 
 Bengal differs as much in climate, manners, 
 customs, and appearance of its inhabitants, as 
 in the general face of the country. Here are no 
 scorching winds in summer, or white frosts, with 
 ponds frozen over, in the winter; but the burn- 
 ing sun, stagnant air, and heavy dews, are far
 
 10 
 
 more oppressive. Although these contribute to 
 fertilize the ground, and to produce their boasted 
 verdure, they are unwholesome, and frequently- 
 offensive . Our tent at sun-rise this morning 
 was so completely wet with the dew that had 
 fallen during the night, as to affect the clothes 
 deposited on chairs within ; and we were ac- 
 tually obliged to have them dried by a fire be- 
 fore they could be worn with safety. 
 
 Of their language and customs I shall say lit- 
 tle ; far abler pens than mine have already de- 
 scribed them ; I shall content myself with ob- 
 serving, that the Bengalee language which thei/ 
 speak, is as little understood by the natives of 
 the upper provinces, as the Hindostanee lan- 
 guage is by them ; hence arises a difficulty in 
 persuading servants of the one country to at- 
 tend you to the other. There is, however, a still 
 stronger reason for the people above Patna ob- 
 jecting to a sojourn in Bengal; it is because, con- 
 sidering, as they do, the Bengalees to be of an in- 
 ferior caste, they are fearful of losing their own : 
 for instance, if a man of inferior caste touches the 
 food, or even utensil in which it is preparing, of 
 a superior, it is contaminated, and no longer fit 
 for use- — all the cleansing in the world would be 
 insufficient, in their opinions, to purify it. This 
 leads to the common practice of each person 
 cooking for himself, even among those of the
 
 11 
 
 highest rank ; and even when this is not the 
 case, they are extremely particular in having a 
 cook of the same caste as they are themselves. 
 Both Hindoos and Mussulmen are tenacious in 
 this respect. I remember a circumstance which 
 occurred to me shortly after my arrival in the 
 country, which astonished me not a little, and 
 distressed me very much. It is the custom for 
 boats going up or down the river to bring to for 
 the night, and make fast to the bank, generally- 
 near some village where the boatmen may pur- 
 chase food : this, they take the opportunity of 
 dressing on small stoves formed at the time, of 
 an adhesive kind of clay, of which these banks 
 are formed. Round these they describe a circle, 
 raised a few inches from the ground, the inside 
 of which they smoothe with the hand until it has 
 the appearance of being nicely plastered. The 
 dandies y as they are called, then place them- 
 selves round, to the number of three, four, and 
 sometimes five in a party, with their legs tucked 
 under them, and commence their attack upon 
 the curry with all the eagerness of professed 
 epicures. A number of these plans had been 
 formed on the only level ground near our boat, 
 and being ignorant at that time of their customs, 
 I unfortunately stepped into one of the magic 
 circles in my attempt to reach the high land. 
 Our boatmen made no observation at the time ; 
 but on turning to view the prospect from above,
 
 12 
 
 I saw several of them employed in emptying 
 the contents of their cooking pots into the river, 
 and afterwards breaking the earthen vessels in 
 which their food had been dressed. Upon en- 
 quiry of a person by me, who spoke a little 
 English, what this meant, I learned to my sur- 
 prise that / had caused the proceeding, by 
 placing my unhallowed foot too near the stove 
 and its circular enclosure. Laughable as it ap- 
 peared to us, it was far from being so to them 
 at the period I allude to ; for as no village 
 within a mile and a half could be found, these 
 poor infatuated people were obliged to content 
 themselves with parched grain. This grain, 
 which resembles a large dried pea in a dark 
 brown skin, is very abundant in India, and is 
 used to feed horses as well as men. The na- 
 tives are universally fond of it, and always carry 
 a small quantity ready parched about them to 
 chew at pleasure : with the boatmen, more par- 
 ticularly, who only get a hot meal before sun- 
 rise, and after sun-set, it is an essential article 
 of food. 
 
 Although united by situation and laws, the 
 Bengalees in no respect associate with the na- 
 tives of the upper provinces. They are unlike 
 also in appearance, the former being delicately 
 shaped, of short stature, and of a very dark 
 complexion ; while the latter are, for the most 
 part, tall, robust, and of a light copper colour.
 
 13 
 
 Indeed I have sometimes seen them, particularly 
 the women, very little darker than the natives 
 of France or Italy ; and the higher you go up 
 the country, the fairer the inhabitants become. 
 This may probably be accounted for by the se- 
 verity of their winter months ; whereas, in Ben- 
 gal, they may be said to have no winter at all, 
 as far as respects cold, for it is never sufficiently 
 felt to require a fire ; and I remarked that there 
 was not a single grate to be seen in Calcutta. 
 
 They differ in dress, perhaps, more than in 
 any other particular. In Bengal they wear no 
 turbans, merely their long black hair strained 
 up round the head, and fastened in a knot at the 
 top; a few yards of thin silk, of various colours, 
 fastened round the waist, and loosely wrapped 
 about the thighs, leaving the legs quite bare ; a 
 drapery of thin muslin, thrown carelessly across 
 the shoulders, one end hanging in front, the 
 other behind, completes their dress, as far as 
 apparel is concerned. But a Bengalee gentle- 
 man has not completed his toilet until he has 
 painted his face and arms. They have their 
 beaux as well as other nations, who seldom ap- 
 pear without a wafer on their forehead, consist- 
 ing of a white patch with a spot of bright scarlet 
 in the centre, and a stripe of white paint down 
 the middle of the nose. These men universally 
 wear ear-rings of the purest gold, and excellent 
 workmanship.
 
 14 
 
 This costume respects Hindoos only ; such 
 are the principal number of inhabitants in Ben- 
 gal. Mussulmen, in every province, wear loose 
 trowsers made of satin, dimity, or calico, ac- 
 cording to the station of the wearer ; their heads 
 are shaved on the top, leaving only a row of hair 
 round the poll and over the ears. They wear 
 turbans of shawl or muslin, with a dress of si- 
 milar materials fitted to the shape ; sleeves hang- 
 ing over the hands, and skirts reaching to the 
 ancles, with four or five yards of muslin or 
 shawl about their loins. On occasions of un- 
 usual exertion, this part of the dress is bound 
 tight, agreeable to the early custom of the East, 
 alluded to in Scripture, " Gird up thy loins," 
 &c. I have seen most superb and costly dresses 
 of this description : one worn by His Highness 
 the Nawaab of Lucknow, was valued at two 
 hundred and fifty pounds sterling. The dress 
 was of kinkoh, or silk, brocaded with gold ; the 
 trowsers, a rich striped satin of various colours ; 
 the turban, as well as waistband, was of fine 
 shawl, curiously wrought with flowers. The 
 dress throughout was lined with scarlet shawl, 
 and under it he wore another of delicate trans- 
 parent muslin. His shoes, which curved from 
 the toes back over the foot, and terminated in a 
 point, were of scarlet velvet, embroidered with 
 gold, silver, and pearls. These dresses do not 
 reach higher than the collar-bones, leaving the
 
 15 
 
 throat exposed. The NrnvaaJis throat was, on 
 this occasion, nearly obscured by three rows of 
 immense pearls, the size of a hazel-nut, fastened 
 round it like a stock. The jewels worn by the 
 Nawaab of Lucknow are most of them public 
 property, and descend with the office to the 
 next successor. 
 
 The religion of the Hindoos, in Bengal, differs 
 in many respects from that in the upper pro- 
 vinces, as do the form and attributes of the 
 deities they worship, and the food on which 
 they subsist. In Bengal, it consists chiefly of rice, 
 paddy, and fish ; vegetables are common to every 
 description of natives. In Hindostan they eat cakes 
 by way of bread, made of a coarse kind of wheat 
 flour called otta, baked on an iron plate ; parched 
 grain, boiled dhol, (a kind of vetch or field pea,) 
 kuddoo, (an inferior kind of cucumber,) melons, 
 &c. ; to which, of late years, since the introduc- 
 tion of them by the English, may be added po- 
 tatoes. As strong liquors are prohibited by their 
 religion, the inhabitants of Hindostan mix great 
 quantities of spice, of various descriptions, with 
 their food as a substitute : there is indeed a spi- 
 rituous liquor which they extract from the ber- 
 ries of the mowah tree, but their general be- 
 verage is pure water. The Bengalees appear to 
 be characterized by a mixture of low cunning, 
 cowardice, and dissimulation ; while their more 
 northern neighbours are manly, brave, and ge-
 
 16 
 
 nerous ; but I do not mean to say that they will 
 hesitate to use deception when it is necessary 
 to carry a point. They are however, generally 
 speaking, more trust-worthy when they are 
 good, and rogues of a higher stamp when dis- 
 posed to become so. Perhaps the difference of 
 climate may have influence on their minds as 
 well as bodies ; for as in Bengal it is damp and 
 enervating, so in the higher provinces it is dry 
 and often bracing. 
 
 After this digression, we will pursue our jour- 
 ney from Hundimpore over a flat country thickly 
 wooded, and abounding in stagnant pools. At 
 the romantic Station of Krishna-niiggei\ or, as 
 it is commonly called, Krishna- ghur, we re- 
 mained two days, and found some agreeable 
 English society. This place took its name from 
 Krishna, the Apollo of the Hindoos, to whom 
 is dedicated a very ancient temple built on this 
 spot. It is one of those denominated in this 
 country " civil Stations," on account of its con- 
 taining an European judge, a collector of re- 
 venue, a surgeon, &c. with a company of sea- 
 poys, who are occasionally relieved by others 
 from Barrackpore. The scenery about Krishna- 
 ghur is highly picturesque and beautiful : a fine 
 clear river called the Jellingy runs in front of the 
 station, over which is a ferry to the island of 
 Kossimbazar. 
 
 Having dispatched our camp equipage, we
 
 17 
 
 were prevailed upon to remain until the evening. 
 We then travelled a distance of seventeen miles to 
 our tents, not without risk of losing some of the 
 attendants by tigers, with which this part of the 
 country abounds. We were in an open carriage, 
 with just sufficient light to distinguish the road, 
 when one of these animals, growling in a bush 
 near us, caused the horses to plunge violently 
 forward. They quickly conveyed us out of 
 danger, but left the syces, or grooms, who run 
 with the horses and take care of them, the more 
 exposed. Fear had fortunately quickened their 
 pace also, and they escaped unhurt. Our 
 alarms were however not destined to subside ; 
 for on reaching the tents we learned that one 
 of the servants, going towards a pond for M^a- 
 ter, had seen a tiger, and only escaped him by 
 plunging in and swimming to a village on the 
 opposite side. Another agreeable piece of in- 
 formation was, that in crossing a field of high 
 grass near the camp, they had discovered two 
 asleep ; it therefore became expedient to kindle 
 fires around us without loss of time ; but before 
 this could be effected, we were in reality at- 
 tacked, although by a less formidable enemy — 
 a half-starved wolf darted amongst our sheep, 
 and carried off a poor innocent lamb. I believe 
 I have mentioned that it is necessary on a march 
 to guard against the want of provisions, by driv- 
 ing the live stock for consumption with the bag- 
 
 c
 
 18 
 
 gage ; for in those towns or villages that are in- 
 habited only by Hindoos, nothing of the kind 
 can be procured — they never eat any thing that 
 has had life. Emboldened, as it should seem, 
 by success, scarcely was all quiet in the camp 
 before depredations of the same nature were 
 repeated. Our people, enraged at their slum- 
 bers being thus disturbed, caught up the first 
 offensive weapon within their reach ; and in 
 one instant my ears were assailed by the firing 
 of guns, pistols, shouting, beating together 
 brass pots, kettles, and, in short, a mixture 
 of discordant sounds ; yet so hungry were our 
 foes, that all this was scarcely sufficient to 
 alarm and drive them away. Sleep was en- 
 tirely out of the question ; for in this manner, 
 with a few short intervals, passed the night. 
 Never was the dawn of day more welcome than 
 I found it now ; and we took advantage of it to 
 quit this horrid neighbourhood. It is said that 
 misfortunes seldom come alone ; so, indeed, it 
 proved on this occasion ; for at the next place 
 we halted, no supplies whatever could be pro- 
 cured, either for servants or cattle — every vil- 
 lage within reach seemed to have been aban- 
 doned to the brute creation. 
 
 From this place we travelled along a vile 
 road over a flat country, chiefly pasture land, 
 for several miles, and at length reached Shool- 
 bereah, an indigo factory in the possession of
 
 19 
 
 Monsieur Savi, a Frenchman, by whom we were 
 most hospitably entertained. The family con- 
 sisted, besides his wife and himself, of a young 
 widow, (their daughter,) her three children, a 
 son, and another young widow, (their cousin,) 
 both under twenty years of age ; three ladies 
 on a visit at the house, a Catholic priest, and 
 four French gentlemen, their neighbours, who 
 had come over to pass the day : being Sunday, 
 we found them just returned from mass. The 
 venerable appea,rance of the priest, on his first 
 approach, bespoke my respect ; but the hilarity, 
 not to say levity, of his conversation during break- 
 fast, soon turned it to disgust. I found reason, 
 while in this family, to regret my negligence in 
 not having cultivated the French language ; for, 
 from want of practice, I was considerably at a 
 loss, and particularly so, as none of them spoke 
 English. They soon prepared, as is the custom 
 with Catholics, to celebrate the Sabbath by 
 singing and dancing. The house was large and 
 commodious ; so that, while the party in the sa- 
 loon amused themselves with an organ, piano- 
 forte, tamborine, &c. I retired to a distant apart- 
 ment to steal an hour of repose, which, after the 
 recent alarms I had experienced, and conse- 
 quent want of sleep, had become highly desira- 
 ble. About three o'clock I was informed that 
 the dinner was ready^ and was conducted into 
 a handsomer room than any I had yet seen. We 
 
 c2
 
 20 
 
 sat down, about sixteen in number, to a really 
 elegant repast ; after which the dancing re-com- 
 menced, and was continued until late at night. 
 Nothing could exceed the wit and spirits of 
 these lively French women : care appeared to 
 leave no stamp on them. The daughter of Ma- 
 dame Savi one minute declared herself the most 
 wretched of human beings, lamented, and even 
 wept at the hardness of her fate ; and almost in 
 the same breath would laugh at a bon mot that 
 accidentally caught her ear. She was an inte- 
 resting looking young creature, in weeds, not 
 yet eighteen. It seemed as if she disdained to 
 be conquered by grief; for once she caught my 
 eyes as they were fixed upon her, and taking my 
 hand, she exclaimed with a lively air, ** Do not 
 look at me when I am sad, only when I am 
 gay." The other young widow, her cousin, had 
 left off mourning " more than a month," she 
 told us, and with it, as it appeared, all serious 
 thoughts. Happy people, to be able so easily 
 to overcome the most severe of all afflictions ! I 
 had been hitherto taught to believe that the Ro- 
 man Catholic religion enveloped its votaries in 
 superstition and despondency ; but were I to 
 judge by my experience of to-day, it would 
 lead me to very opposite conclusions.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Our sleeping tent was pitched at Placey^ about 
 two miles beyond this place, on our route to 
 Moorshedabad ; and it was near one o'clock in 
 the morning before we reached it. Placey was 
 once a place of some importance, as the scene 
 of Lord Clive's first victary over the Bengalese; 
 it is now an insignificant village, with very few 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Our journey was resumed the next morning 
 over a road which was almost the worst I ever 
 travelled ; deep ruts and high banks constantly 
 impeded our progress, nor did the scenery pre- 
 sent any thing to compensate for these inconve- 
 niences. 
 
 The next place we came to, of any conse- 
 quence, was the well-known city of Moorsheda- 
 bad, the residence of the Naicaab of Bengal. 
 He enjoys, however, little more than an empty 
 title, having neither territory nor authority, but 
 enjoying in their stead a pension from the East 
 India Company. Moorshedabad is one of their 
 principal civil stations ; besides the usual com- 
 plement of civil servants, such as judge, col- 
 lector, assistant, registrar, and surgeon, it con- 
 tains a court of appeal, consisting of three su-
 
 22 
 
 perior judges with their appendages. About 
 two miles from this is the military station of 
 Berkampo?'e, also on the banks of the Ganges; 
 it is an elegant cantonment, surrounded by cul- 
 tivation, and kept in the highest order; the 
 bank is steep, sloping gradually down to the 
 water's edge, and planted with grass, which is 
 constantly mowed and watered, with a broad 
 gravel walk or parade on the top. Supplies of 
 every kind are to be met with here ; also a ma- 
 nufactory of cotton stockings, softer, finer, and 
 much cheaper than they are in England ; like- 
 wise of leather gloves, in imitation of Limerick, 
 and but little inferior ; black silk handkerchiefs, 
 silks of various colours in the piece, ribbons, 
 &c. &c. 
 
 The first twenty miles, after leaving Moorshe- 
 dabad, were exceedingly unpleasant on account 
 of the road ; not that the ruts were so deep as 
 on the other side the city, but the road was 
 worn so uneven, and was withal so stony, as to 
 be almost dangerous. This is generally the case 
 in the neighbourhood of large cities in India, 
 where much traffic is carried on. It is neces- 
 sary to inform the reader that there are no turn- 
 pikes in this country, and that the roads are re- 
 paired by Government; but so shamefully ne- 
 glected did this appear, that near a considerable 
 village named Bamuneah, one entire arch of a 
 bridge, originally built of brick, had fallen in.
 
 23 
 
 (nor did this event appear of recent date,) and 
 we were obliged to cross the stream over a tem- 
 porary one of mud and bamboo, which sunk un- 
 der the horses' feet at every step. The country 
 about this place is much covered with clumps 
 of bamboo, intermixed with corn-fields. These 
 crops, which in some were ripe, in others half 
 cut, and filled with reapers, gave it a cheerful 
 appearance ; but the fallen leaves of the bamboo 
 plant, which have a strong offensive smell, would 
 form in my opinion a great objection to residing 
 there. 
 
 Our tents were next day pitched in a grove of 
 fine mango trees, whose fruit, the most useful and 
 delicious of any in India, possesses, in the dif- 
 ferent stages of its growth, very opposite quali- 
 ties; when ripe, it is about the size of a magnum 
 bonum plum, with a thick yellow rind, often 
 found tinged on one side with a deep red colour, 
 and particularly juicy ; in the centre of each is 
 a large oval stone, the shape of the mango ; and 
 you seldom meet with two in fifty of the same 
 flavour — the predominant taste is either that of 
 the pine-apple or the strawberry. They are 
 ripe about June or July. So fond are the natives 
 of this fruit, that while in season it is their prin- 
 cipal food, and is considered both wholesome 
 and nutritive where water is the only beverage ; 
 but I have known instances where even owe glass 
 of wine, taken at the same time, has produced a
 
 24 
 
 painful eruption on the skin not unlike the net- 
 tle-rash, attended by a considerable degree of 
 fever, particularly when ripened (as is frequently 
 the case) on straw, to bring them forward before 
 those become ripe that are in the open air. When 
 green, this fruit has a most grateful acid flavour : 
 it makes an excellent pickle or preserve, a de- 
 licious tart, and much improves a curry, soused 
 fish, &c. Mango trees are generally planted in 
 groves by the road side, affording an agreeable 
 shelter for the traveller from the heat of a noon- 
 day sun, where they have generally also the be- 
 nefit of a well, more necessary to the inhabitants 
 of this country even than their food. The leaves 
 of the mango tree are as large as those of the 
 walnut in England ; indeed the fruit, when 
 green, is not unlike a walnut in appearance ; 
 the branches spread considerably, and they 
 grow to a great height. 
 
 The road, as we pursued our journey, grew 
 rather worse than better ; it ran along a high 
 causeway for upwards of ten miles, of barely 
 sufficient width for two carriages to pass each 
 other, and was besides much cut up by vehi- 
 cles of burthen. The ground on either side was 
 cultivated with rice and paddy, and must in the 
 rainy season be completely inundated, forming 
 the only soil in which these grains are said to 
 flourish. 
 
 The villages we had hitherto passed were few.
 
 25 
 
 and of mean appearance. On making this ob- 
 servation, I was told that no Hindoo, if he 
 could possibly avoid it, would live any where 
 but on the banks of the sacred river, (the Ganges,) 
 wherein he might bathe at least twice in the 
 twenty-four hours, as enjoined by his religion; 
 indeed, I have observed that they no sooner ar- 
 rive at the end of a journey, be it long or short, 
 than they strip themselves and plunge into the 
 river; and where no river is at hand, squat 
 down by the side of a well, and throw wa- 
 ter over themselves until they are completely 
 drenched. This custom of so frequent ablu- 
 tion may appear, in the idea of an European, 
 extremely inconvenient and troublesome. To 
 obviate this, their dress, which I have before 
 described, is peculiarly adapted. This custom 
 of frequent ablution, and the supposed religious 
 nature of the ceremony, may also account for 
 the immense population on the banks of the 
 Ganges, in defiance of the torrents which fre- 
 quently sweep whole villages away, leaving no 
 trace behind. 
 
 The unpleasant causeway I have described 
 brought us to a place called Kummerah, where 
 the river opened majestically on our view; and 
 we continued our journey along its banks until 
 we approached the tents, which, to our dismay, 
 were pitched upon a plain, without a single tree 
 to shelter them. We of course expected to
 
 26 
 
 suffer considerably from the heat ; but whether 
 from the vicinity of the spot to the river, or 
 from any other local cause, it is difficult to de- 
 termine, the day proved much less oppressive 
 than those which preceded it, when we en- 
 camped under a thick shade. The wind blew 
 hot and fresh. We had provided ourselves with 
 tatties* at Moorshedahad^ which being fixed at 
 the windward entrance of the tent, and kept 
 well watered on the outside, rendered us ex- 
 tremely comfortable. 
 
 This river is an arm only of the great Ganges, 
 and was at this time nearly dry. We travelled 
 chiefly on its bank ; but whenever the road de- 
 
 * Tatties are frames made of bamboo, resembling trellis- 
 work, rather closer one way than the other, to fit a door or 
 window. These frames being covered by the fibrous roots of 
 a sweet-scented grass, called kus kus, are kept wet by a person 
 on the outide throwing water upon them. There is an art, 
 even in this ; since by leaving any part of the tatty dry, the 
 purpose of cooling the apartment is defeated. The hot wind 
 which generally blows strong from the westward, passing 
 through these tatties, becomes cool, and conveys a refreshing 
 scent like roses. I have frequently felt the house so cold from 
 them, as to be under the necessity of wearing an additional 
 garment, while out of it the atmosphere has been intolerably 
 hot. Another kind of tatty, for light airs, such as blow from 
 the East, is made from a low briary shrub of a lively green, 
 found on sandy places, named jojvassy, which is placed tightly 
 on the frame, and may be renewed daily. 
 
 Strong westerly winds make a healthy season, as do those 
 from the East the reverse.
 
 27 
 
 viated, it led through cultivated lands sur- 
 rounded by embankments — a necessary pre- 
 caution against its overflow in the rainy season. 
 The crops here are wonderfully luxuriant, and 
 so indefatigable are the people in encouraging 
 them, that they even till the few dry patches in 
 the bed of the stream. The whole, at this time, 
 appeared one cheerful moving scene — pedes- 
 trian travellers, and innumerable droves of cat- 
 tle passing and re-passing ; boats sailing down, 
 while others were tracking up the magnificent 
 Ganges, separated from us only by a low bank 
 of sand about a quarter of a mile across, pre- 
 senting a coup d'o^il of the most agreeable nature. 
 But we soon found ourselves obliged to cross a 
 bed of sand which separated two cuts of the 
 river ; this happening to be deep, considerably 
 impeded our progress, while the ascents and 
 descents were almost perpendicular. In one 
 part we encountered a narrow, rapid stream, 
 through which the united force of the party, as- 
 sisted by the horse that drew it, was scarcely 
 sufficient to push the carriage. On reaching the 
 declivity we discovered another sand, of consi- 
 derable breadth, to traverse before we could 
 gain the ferry, this ferry being at the junction 
 of three branches of the Ganges. 
 
 Our march to-day had been so retarded by 
 the sands, that the sun was getting high, and 
 my impatience great for the shelter of a tent ;
 
 28 
 
 SO, jumping into a small fishing-boat, as the de- 
 lay in conveying our carriage into the other was 
 likely to prove considerable, I made the best of 
 my way on foot towards our encampment, tra- 
 versing ploughed fields and banks of sand for 
 nearly a mile. This brought me to the village 'of 
 Sooty, on the main bank of the Ganges, where 
 our tents were pitched, and in about an hour I 
 was joined by the rest of the party ; thus cross- 
 ing that arm of the river that separates the island 
 of Cossimbazar from the main land. From this 
 island of Cossimbazar are brought those beautiful 
 feathers, so highly esteemed by European la- 
 dies, called the Comocolly *. The birds on which 
 they grow are a species of water-fowl, about 
 the size of a gull, peculiar to this island. The 
 plumage of the young birds is grey, of the old 
 white. The feathers most in request are found 
 under the wings, and are light as ether down : 
 they are either worn in a plume, or formed into 
 various shapes, such as muffs, tippets, &c. ; 
 and although very expensive in England, may 
 in Calcutta be procured for a mere trifle. 
 
 Owing to a curious circumstance, we found 
 the village of Sooty almost deserted : a robbery 
 to a large amount had been lately committed 
 there on some travelling merchants, and all the 
 
 * The name of that part of the island where these birds are 
 chiefly found.
 
 29 
 
 principal persons, including their chief, had been 
 taken to the Judicial Court at Moorshedabad 
 upon suspicion of being concerned in it. It is, 
 as I afterwards learned, not an unusual thing 
 for these jemeendaj^s, or head men of villages, to 
 keep a number of subordinates to plunder when 
 they have opportunity, and divide the spoil. 
 It is in this particular that our government is so 
 beneficial to the country in general, inasmuch as 
 its activity and justice protects the property of 
 individuals. Of this the natives are well aware ; 
 and, for the most part, gratefully acknow- 
 ledge it. 
 
 We spent the night at Sooti/, but were much 
 disturbed by the howling of a small animal 
 called the pao ; by which it is affirmed that the 
 tiger is always preceded when in search of prey. 
 
 The first village of any consequence that we 
 passed through on the following morning was 
 Narungabad, where there is a number of fine 
 large trees, chiefly tamarinds, and a good ba- 
 zar. The properties of the tamarind tree are 
 somewhat remarkable, being at once a bane and 
 an antidote. It is a well-authenticated fact 
 among the natives, that a person sleeping under 
 one of these at night, invariably complains, on 
 awakening, of pain in his limbs, weariness, shi- 
 vering, and other indications of fever; which 
 symptoms, by drinking plentifully of an infu- 
 sion of its fruit, are generally removed.
 
 m 
 
 Our journey was now chiefly across low lands, 
 intersected by stagnant pools, on which were 
 innumerable wild fowls, but principally ducks, 
 precisely like those we have in England, and 
 equally good in flavour. From hence, by a 
 gradual ascent, we reached a plain of the finest 
 turf, and drove on it for a considerable distance 
 without the slightest impediment, tracing the 
 boundary of a fine transparent stream, called 
 the Collah Pmvnee Nullah *. On this stream ap- 
 peared more than fifty fishing boats preparing to 
 cast their nets. The prospect altogether, aided 
 by the fineness of the morning, (for there was a 
 refreshing breeze,) rendered this ride truly de- 
 lightful. 
 
 We found our tents pitched in an extensive 
 grove of varied foliage, on a very romantic spot 
 near the village of Doionapore ; but as every ad- 
 vantage has its contra, no drinkable water could 
 be procured within half a mile; although this 
 circumstance was immaterial, as far as regarded 
 ourselves, still after a long march it was very 
 fatiguing to our servants, who drank nothing 
 but water. 
 
 The next morning, at day-break, we pro- 
 ceeded as usual, and accomplished the first 
 twelve miles before breakfast. The country 
 
 * Collah, in Hindostanee, here means dark; Pawnee, water; 
 Nullah, a stream.
 
 31 
 
 was woody, and for the most part cultivated, 
 with the exception of a plain of considerable 
 extent, indeed without any apparent boundary, 
 which led to two streams, separated by a nar- 
 row bed of sand, whose banks were so exceed- 
 ingly steep that we were literally under the ne- 
 cessity of scrambling up them ; the only wonder 
 was, that our carriage ever reached the top. 
 The road on the following day was not only 
 rough, but high in some places and low in 
 others, bounded by the river on the right, and 
 the Radge Mali I hills, at about two miles distant, 
 on the left, leaving a space of highly cultivated 
 land between. 
 
 A few miles before reaching Radge MaKl, we 
 drove through the village of Futteh Poor: it 
 contains an indigo factory, and a pretty large 
 set^ai*. This latter is a place of reception for 
 travellers ; it is in form a square, enclosed on 
 each side by high brick walls, with large fold- 
 ing gates at the east and west entrances. The 
 wall on the inside is lined with small sheds, or 
 thatched hovels, each furnished with a bedstead 
 of the rudest materials, called a char-piak, such 
 as are commonly used by the people of this 
 country. It is a square frame, about five feet 
 and a half long, covered by coarse twine strongly 
 woven together, and supported by four pieces, or 
 
 * A party of the police are stationed in every serai. 
 
 3
 
 32 
 
 rather small blocks of wood, of about a foot and 
 a half in height, without posts or tester. For- 
 tunately, these people do not require the luxury 
 of a bed ; and in cold weather they carry their 
 coverlid upon their backs. Curry and rice, 
 cakes made of otta, (or coarse flour,) milk, and 
 good water, may be procured in these serais 
 for a trifling consideration, as also food and 
 lodging for cattle. Gentlemen, when sending 
 their horses to a distance, find them very con- 
 venient ; but, in a general way, they are fre- 
 quented only by those natives who travel with- 
 out tents, or a sufficient guard to protect them. 
 About two miles beyond this, we crossed a 
 bridge built of red brick over the Oodah Nullah, 
 celebrated in the annals of this country as the 
 scene of an obstinate battle between two of their 
 strongest native powers. It was very sultry, 
 and near nine o'clock before we reached Rads:e 
 Afa/il, as it is commonly called ; but properly 
 speaking, Rajah Ko Mahul, signifying '* the 
 property of the Rajah." On approaching this 
 place, which is of considerable extent, the coun- 
 try assumes a woody appearance, while innu- 
 merable small hamlets, peeping through clumps 
 of bamboo, render it extremely pleasing to the 
 eye. 
 
 Radge MaKl was formerly a place of great 
 celebrity ; it contained the best bazar in India, 
 and was resorted to from the most distant pro-
 
 33 
 
 vinces. Of all the arts and manufactures which 
 rendered it celebrated when in its original 
 grandeur, there remains only a manufacture of 
 earthen-ware, and the art of carving on marble; 
 of which material they make sundry small arti- 
 cles for sale. Here the eastern and western 
 dawks, or post, meet, and exchange bags, the 
 inhabitants of the upper provinces not choosing 
 to go lower, and those of the lower provinces 
 not wishing to proceed higher up the country. 
 The remains of a magnificent palace of the ra- 
 jahs are still shown, but it is fast falling to de- 
 cay. The whole town, shortly before our ar- 
 rival there, had nearly been consumed by fire ; 
 fortunately for us, a baker and his house had 
 escaped the conflagration, for he soon made us 
 some excellent bread and hot rolls for breakfast 
 next morning. The substitute for yeast, called 
 toddy, is met with here in great perfection ; it 
 exudes from the palm-tree, and makes much 
 lighter bread, without any bitter taste. 
 
 At so great a distance from any European 
 station, a baker is certainly a great conve- 
 nience ; and the man who, in this sequestered 
 spot, devotes himself to the comfort and accom- 
 modation of travellers, certainly deserves greater 
 encouragement than the casual reward of his 
 labours. Two or three rupees a month, from 
 Government, would keep up this establishment 
 from generation to generation. The Hindoos 
 
 D
 
 34 
 
 will never, if they can avoid it, forsake the trade 
 of their fathers ; and are so exceedingly tena- 
 cious in this particular, that they are even scru- 
 pulous of improving upon it. I asked a baker 
 once to make muffins, and offered to translate 
 a receipt I had for them into Hindostanee, pro- 
 mising him at the same time a recommendation 
 to all my acquaintance, which bemg pretty 
 large, and at one of the principal military sta- 
 tions, must have been highly lucrative to him. 
 He listened very patiently until I had finished 
 my speech, when closing his hands in a sup- 
 pliant posture, *' Pardon me. Lady," said he, 
 ** but my father never made them, my grand- 
 father never made them, and how can I pre- 
 sume to do it? My grandfather brought up 
 sixteen children, my father fourteen children, 
 without making muf keens, and why should not 
 I ?" Such close reasoning as this I was by no 
 means prepared to parry, so bowing assent, I 
 dismissed him, and there the matter ended. 
 The Hindoos are, beyond a doubt, the least en- 
 terprising people in the world. 
 
 Radge Mali I is just eleven miles from our last 
 encampment. We were pitched on the bank of 
 the river, at its widest part ; but having neither 
 wind nor shade, we found the heat almost into- 
 lerable.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Our route on the following day ran so near the 
 edge of a precipice, that the smallest deviation 
 might have proved fatal to us. A thick grass 
 jungle, or underwood, and a range of mountains 
 bounded our view on one side ; on the other 
 flowed the Ganges ; while the bank on which we 
 drove was narrow, and in many places much 
 broken. 
 
 The sheep and goats of Bengal are remarkably 
 small, the latter generally white, and are, when 
 young, the prettiest little creatures imaginable. 
 They thrive here in great abundance; but in 
 consequence of the number of wolves and tigers 
 with which this neighbourhood is infested, it is 
 necessary to keep them closely guarded. Goat's 
 milk, in India, is infinitely preferable, in tea, to 
 that of cows, being much richer, and without 
 any unpleasant taste. 
 
 Over a fine down, on which our tents were 
 pitched, we drove three miles the following 
 morning as on a soft green velvet, and passed a 
 large village different from any I had yet seen. 
 The huts were of straw, or long grass, neatly 
 plaited together, supported on four bamboo 
 poles, with fences round them of similar mate- 
 
 d2
 
 36 
 
 rials at a little distance, so constructed as to se- 
 cure their different kinds of cattle at ni^iit from 
 beasts of prey. This kind of elastic fence, by 
 yielding to their spring, alarms them, and they 
 invariably sneak off. Beyond this village lay a 
 deep sand, covered by long grass and briars, 
 through which, as might be expected, the road 
 proved miserably bad. Considering this as a 
 public way, leadmg to all the principal Eu- 
 ropean stations on the banks of the Ganges, it 
 appears somewhat extraordinary that it should 
 be so entirely neglected, as the badness of the 
 road must necessarily impede commerce, not 
 only with the provinces, but also from the Mha- 
 rattah and other states. Within the distance of 
 seventeen miles, no less than seven bridges ap- 
 peared, almost dangerous to cross, for want of 
 a little repair. To my observation on this sub- 
 ject may perhaps be replied, that Government 
 is now making a new military road up the coun- 
 try another way. Very true ; but can Govern- 
 ment induce the natives to form villages on it^ 
 so great a distance from their sacred and fa- 
 vourite river? and if not, how are travellers, 
 particularly natives, to procure supplies ? They 
 answer. The distance will be so much lessened. 
 But who, in undertaking a journey of nearly a 
 thousand miles, would not be glad to go a few 
 miles more, in order to pass a pleasant day in 
 some friendly habitation? In a multitude of
 
 37 
 
 counsellors, however, we are told, there is wis- 
 dom ; I must of course conclude that every thing 
 is arranged for the best. Great part of our way 
 now lay through 2i jungle, full of tigers ; but they 
 rarely attack a human being in the day-time, 
 particularly where cattle are so numerous as in 
 Bengal. Our people observed one at a distance, 
 sneaking off to a thicker covert. 
 
 Gunga Pursaad, the village we next came to, 
 was close to the river, and of very mean appear- 
 ance. Like Radge Mafil, it had lately suffered 
 by fire ; nor is it surprising that such circum- 
 stances should frequently happen, when we 
 consider of what materials their hovels are com- 
 posed, and their carelessness in throwing away 
 the lighted particles which they have been 
 smoking *. Another circumstance which greatly 
 tends to lessen our commiseration, is, their ex- 
 treme apathy concerning each other; for if a 
 man succeeds in rescuing his own property, he 
 immediately marches off with it, regardless of 
 the entreaties of his neighbour for assistance. 
 
 The natural indolence of these people is in- 
 deed very great ; no plea but necessity induces 
 them to move at all. They would like to sit and 
 smoke the whole daylong. ** Better," say they, 
 *' to sit than stand ; better to lay down than 
 
 * The practice of smoking is universal throughout the 
 eastern world. 
 
 ^-^^.21 
 
 0«Js ff ^f
 
 38 
 
 sit ; better to sleep than either." If assailed by 
 any sudden misfortune, they instantly lose all 
 presence of mind, and run bawling about like so 
 many mad creatures. 
 
 From Gunga Pursaad, by an almost perpen- 
 dicular road, we ascended the mountains. On 
 either side grew thick underwood, and the path 
 was covered with loose stones. By slow de- 
 grees we approached the pass of Telliah Gulley, 
 where we found the remains of two fortified 
 gateways, which in former times had been forced 
 and carried by a people called TheJauts*. On one 
 side appeared an impenetrable wood, intersected 
 by frightful chasms ; on the other a tremendous 
 precipice, on the edge of which lay a dismounted 
 gun of large dimensions. This pass divides the 
 province of Bengal from that of Bahar, into 
 which we now entered. Bahar is now consi- 
 dered one of the centre provinces of the East 
 India Company's possessions in this direction. 
 While I gazed on the mouldering remains of a 
 fortified gateway, on the summit of this almost 
 inaccessible mountain, whose turrets frowned 
 in awful majesty on the thick wood beneath, I 
 could almost fancy I heard the groans of some 
 poor wretch confined within its walls. Silent, 
 dreary, and forsaken, save by beasts of prey 
 who prowled to quench their thirst at the moun- 
 
 * See Dow's Hist, of Hindostan.
 
 39 
 
 tain torrents, far from the haunts of men, was 
 this terrific region ! Nor was the descent on the 
 other side less formidable : huge stones, over 
 which, as before, we were obliged to scramble, 
 perpetually impeded our progress ; the poor 
 horses could with difficulty keep upon their 
 legs ; and it required three or four men to hang 
 on the back part of the carriage, in order to pre- 
 vent its falling over, so steep was the declivity. 
 
 Just at this crisis our guide declared himself 
 unable to proceed- — he was so fatigued he could 
 go no farther. His services were however indis- 
 pensable : a little wine might have recruited 
 him, but that he would not touch ; at length, 
 by promises of additional reward, he contrived 
 to creep along. And now, what should present 
 itself but a camel newly slain by a tiger ! the 
 blood was still flowing from its throat, and the 
 creature scarcely cold. The scent of the tiger 
 was very strong ; and it was conjectured that, 
 hearing us approach, the ferocious animal had 
 left his prey. It was some time before the 
 horses would proceed ; and not one of them, 
 until a bandage had been placed over his eyes. 
 I cannot say but I shuddered a little myself. A 
 different scene however soon dissipated the hor- 
 rors of the last : a beautiful and fertile valley 
 opened on our view, bounded at the distance of 
 about half a mile by a range of hills still higher 
 than those we were about to quit ; while an ex-^
 
 40 
 
 pansive lake, covered with a variety of vs^ild 
 fowl, and a table land of luxuriant turf, proved 
 a pleasing reverse to the bold scenery of its 
 neighbouring hills. A fine smooth road con- 
 ducted us through this romantic spot, amid 
 small bushes of odoriferous shrubs, and pea- 
 cocks, feeding in the full security of solitude. 
 From hence, ascending by a gradual and almost 
 imperceptible ascent, we caught sight of another 
 range of hills, which still separated us from the 
 Ganges. The first rays of the rising sun were 
 beginning to shed their lustre on the prospect. 
 What heart so insensible as not to feel the Di- 
 vine influence ! to adore the great Creator, and 
 to think with Milton, " These are thy works. 
 Parent of good!" 
 
 Our road lay through a thick jungle, inter- 
 spersed with wild roses and creepers of singular 
 beauty, diflfering both in shape and colour from 
 any I had seen, although some of them bore a 
 strong resemblance to various hot-house plants 
 in England. About eight o'clock we reached 
 the plain on which our tents were pitched ; it 
 happened to be near a little mean village, called 
 Palliah-poore. This place was inhabited by in- 
 valid pensioners of the East India Company's 
 regiments, who, when disabled in the service, 
 have the option of retiring to one of the many 
 villages set apart for that purpose, where a spot 
 of ground is allotted to each individual, and a
 
 41 
 
 few rupees paid monthly to them by the super- 
 intendent, or visiting officer. This gratuity af- 
 fords the seapoys an opportunity of sitting down 
 comfortably with their families for the remainder 
 of their days, and is a most admirable institution. 
 Unfortunately for us, the pensioners of Palliah- 
 poore happened to be Hindoos, who only keep 
 sufficient supplies for their separate consump- 
 tion, and having no bazar, our Mussulman ser- 
 vants came badly off. On these occasions, Hin- 
 doos have greatly the advantage ; a little parched 
 grain, and a draught of water occasionally, will 
 support them for many days. It is computed 
 that one rupee and a half (three shillings and 
 nine-pence) will furnish a Hindoo with food and 
 raiment for a month ; whereas three rupees (se- 
 ven shillings and sixpence) are barely sufficient 
 for the maintenance of a Mussulman of the same 
 rank and station, for the same space of time. 
 
 About half a mile from PaUiah-poore is an in- 
 digo factory. The gentleman who resided there, 
 no sooner heard of our arrival, than, with that 
 spirit of hospitality so general throughout India, 
 he invited us to his house ; which on our declin- 
 ing to accept, he sent his servants to our tents 
 laden with fruit and vegetables. In the course 
 of the day we were visited by some of the hill 
 people, bearing earthen jars filled with the most 
 delicious honey I ever tasted : it was perfectly 
 white and transparent.
 
 42 
 
 These are quite a distinct race of people ; they 
 never quit their native hills but to exchange 
 honey and wood for grain in the neighbouring 
 villages, appear totally uncivilized, and speak 
 a language peculiar to themselves. Their sta- 
 ture is short and thick, with skins nearly black ; 
 small black eyes, low foreheads, thick coarse 
 black curly hair, on which neither men nor wo- 
 men wear any covering, and very little clothing 
 at all. They are timid and inoffensive, as far 
 as respects human beings, but very ferocious 
 with beasts, against which they are armed with 
 poisoned arrows, and clubs of such a size and 
 weight, that a man not accustomed to them 
 could scarcely wield them. The post-man, in 
 traversing these wilds, is attended by a guide 
 carrying a torn torn, or small drum, which he 
 beats as he runs along, to alarm and disperse 
 the savage animals that infest them; amongst 
 others, the wild buffalo is not the hast to be 
 feared. I was present when one of these furious 
 creatures attacked a gentleman on horseback, 
 who only saved his life by the speed of the ani- 
 mal on which he rode. 
 
 Here, for the first time since leaving Calcutta, 
 our people drew water from a well; hitherto 
 they had been obliged to use that of the river, 
 or some stagnant pool. 
 
 From Palliah-poore the road is rough and ra- 
 ther hilly, on a gravelly soil ; it runs generally
 
 43 
 
 through a kind of brush-wood and briars ; but 
 near villages the country is well cultivated. 
 Thus we continued travelling, at the base of a 
 ridge of hills, until we reached the large and po- 
 pulous village of Kol Gong. The opposite side 
 of the river, which we occasionally caught sight 
 of, appeared covered with under-wood, and, we 
 were told, was full of game. I observed several 
 hferds of cattle, and that one of them had always 
 a bell hung round his neck, to prevent the rest 
 from straying. 
 
 The village of Kol Gong stands immediately 
 under the hills, whose sides are covered with 
 shrubs ; and in front of it runs the Ganges. 
 Many indigo planters, and officers retired from 
 the Company's service, are settled here ; some 
 of them have built large houses in the European 
 style, which gives it somewhat the appearance 
 of England. Two most extraordinary rocks, of 
 a pyramidal form, rear their monstrous heads 
 about the middle of the river, nearly opposite to 
 this place ; they appear to have been formed by 
 huge stones, piled one upon another to an im- 
 moderate height. On the pinnacle of each is the 
 hut of di fakeer, or mendicant priest — the one a 
 Hindoo, the other a Mussulman. They have 
 each a small boat, in which they ply for charity 
 from those who pass up and down the river, 
 which is here two miles across. It may not be 
 unworthy remark, that although there is not the
 
 44 
 
 smallest appearance of soil, shrubs and even 
 trees grow almost to the summit of these rocks ; 
 the circumference of which, at the base, is about 
 a hundred and fifty yards : their size is nearly 
 equal. There is no tradition in existence re- 
 specting their origin. Approach to them in the 
 rainy season is extremely dangerous, and many 
 boats are wrecked here. 
 
 On leaving Kol Gong, we quitted the vicinity 
 of these awfully romantic mountains, and by a 
 broad beaten track entered a flat and highly cul- 
 tivated country. The only unpleasant circum- 
 stance was its being intersected by ravines, in 
 which were frequently a good deal of water ; in 
 that case, our only resource was to cross them 
 on temporary bridges of bamboo, covered with 
 earth. In descending one of these ravines, our 
 carriage was overturned ; but the soil being 
 sandy, it sustained no injury. We had fortu- 
 nately quitted it before the accident happened. 
 The farther we journied west of Calcutta, the 
 hotter and stronger the wind became ; but the 
 nights were still cool ; nor did the hot winds 
 commence blowing in general until about nine 
 o'clock, continuing from that time until sun-set. 
 The following morning we reached Baugul- 
 poor, a station for civilians, and a company or 
 battalion of Hill Rangers. Here we were enter- 
 tained by the Judge and his Lady, and were 
 induced to remain some days. A singular cir-
 
 45 
 
 cumstance occurred, in consequence of the ar- 
 rival of some Missionaries, while we were at this 
 place. These gentlemen had been holding forth 
 in the bazar, and having gathered together a 
 numerous assembly of the people, particularly 
 remarked one, as being more attentive than the 
 rest ; (a corn factor, of respectable appearance ;) 
 when, going up to him, the Missionary asked if 
 he had been convinced by the arguments he had 
 heard in favour of the Christian religion ? After 
 a moment's hesitation, " What will you give 
 me," said the native, '* to become a Christian ?" 
 — " The blessings of our holy religion will re- 
 ward you," replied the Missionary. " That 
 will not do," returned the native ; " but I'll tell 
 you what — If you will give me a lac of rupees, 
 and two English ladies for my wives, I'll con- 
 sider of it." The Missionary was indignant ; and, 
 but for the timely interference of the Mayor, 
 matters might have taken a serious turn. 
 
 Baugul-pooi' is not immediately on the Ganges, 
 but on the banks of a fine meandering stream 
 proceeding from the hills, which runs into it a 
 few miles below. This stream is narrow, deep, 
 and beautifully picturesque. At each winding 
 is seen a handsome residence, grounds taste- 
 fully laid out, and planted with a variety of 
 trees ; amongst which, the bamboo and cocoa- 
 nut appeared particularly to flourish. It is ce-
 
 46 
 
 lebrated for the manufacture of cloth, known in 
 England by the name of ginghams, generally 
 made in stripes of pink or blue, and sometimes 
 plain coloured ; the white is little inferior, on a 
 transient view, to the shawl of Cashmere.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 From Baugul-poor we proceeded through a 
 woody, populous, and highly cultivated coun- 
 try, somewhat intersected by ravines, and over 
 bamboo bridges as before. The village near 
 which we found our tents, had been latterly 
 much annoyed by tigers, one of whom had, for 
 several successive nights, carried off a human 
 being. At length, become desperate, the in- 
 habitants had formed a resolution to watch, and 
 turn out in a body against their assailant : ac- 
 cordingly, armed with arrows, stones, loaded 
 sticks, spears, and an old matchlock or two, 
 they had sallied forth the night before, and we 
 found them rejoicing over their vanquished ene- 
 my ; and an enormous brute he was, measuring- 
 four feet two inches high, ten feet one inch and 
 a half long, and stout in proportion. 
 
 It may seem extraordinary to those who are 
 unacquainted with the natural indolence of these 
 people, that they should have suffered their re- 
 lations and friends to be thus devoured, and re- 
 main so long inactive ; but when informed that 
 every Hindoo is a predestinarian, and firmly be- 
 lieves in the transmigration of souls, their sur- 
 prise will cease. A striking instance of this oc- 
 
 8
 
 48 
 
 curred to me, as I was sitting one day reading 
 in our own bungalow at Meeriit : a kind of bus- 
 tle in the verandah caused me to look up, when 
 I perceived a large snake, of the species called 
 by the natives coprah capell, or hooded snake, 
 advancing towards me. Starting from my seat, 
 I called to some palankeen bearers, who were 
 looking on, to kill him. With the greatest 
 composure, one of them asked if that was my 
 hookam? (order.) "To be sure it is," I ex- 
 cl'iimed. (The reptile meanwhile spreading his 
 hood, and looking very fierce.) When approach- 
 ing the snake, he made a profound salaam, and 
 muttering, Maaf kurro, (forgive,) with a stick 
 he knocked him on the head, and despatched 
 him in a moment. A very slight blow is suf- 
 ficient on this part to destroy them. It is sin- 
 gular, that when one snake has been destroyed, 
 another is sure to come : our people conse- 
 quently watched, and in a few days killed its 
 partner. To so great an extent do the Hindoos 
 carry their superstitious ceremonies, that they 
 even salaam to their tools of a morning before 
 they begin to use them, and the same when 
 they have finished their day's work, alleging as 
 a reason, that it is to them they are indebted for 
 subsistence. I verily believe this is the only 
 species of gratitude they are acquainted with. 
 
 The road continued broad and good, bounded 
 by a bank and hedge on either side, a circum-
 
 49 
 
 stance rather unusual in this country, where the 
 only land-mark, generally speaking, is a ridge 
 of earth. Removing a neighbour's land-mark, 
 is the source of more quarrelling and bloodshed 
 than any other cause. You frequently hear of 
 whole villages turning out against each other to 
 revenge a dispute of this kind, and many lives 
 are sacrificed. Until I knew that this was a 
 common practice, I often wondered at hearing 
 so much firing of matchlocks, particularly in 
 the territory belonging to the Nawaab of Luck- 
 now, and other native princes. Although an 
 additional reason may be applicable in these 
 places, which is, that they are most insatiable 
 landlords, and obliged to collect their revenue 
 by force of arms. 
 
 About fourteen miles farther on, we caught 
 sight of a range of hills running parallel with 
 Monghh\ a place of great celebrity for the cha- 
 lybeate springs, both hot and cold, in its vici- 
 nity. These are found in five wells, close to 
 each other. The water in one of them is so hot, 
 that having dipped a glass full, you are glad to 
 relinquish the hold. 
 
 The surrounding country is mountainous, with 
 this small chalybeate stream meandering through 
 it, which in its course turns vegetation black. 
 The water itself has no unpleasant taste, and 
 is perfectly transparent. A friend of mine 
 brought some of it in bottles to England, and, 
 
 E
 
 50 
 
 by way of experiment, took several back to 
 India; which, on opening, v.-^ere found excel- 
 lent to the taste, and sparkling like Cham- 
 paigne. 
 
 These springs are about a hundred yards in- 
 land from the Ganges, and are guarded by 
 Brahmans, who levy considerable contributions 
 from those who for their health frequent them. 
 They are only four miles distant from the town 
 of Monghkr. This is a large populous place on 
 the banks of the Ganges ; it is a station for in- 
 valid Seapoys, who amuse themselves and in- 
 crease their incomes by the manufacture of dif- 
 ferent articles — such as household furniture; 
 iron, tin, and brass utensils, of various descrip- 
 tions ; bellows neatly studded with brass nails, 
 (an article much in request to the north-west of 
 Mongh'ier in the cold season,) straw hats and 
 bonnets, leather hunting caps, umbrellas, and 
 toys for children. A great variety of birds of 
 beautiful plumage are also offered here for sale, 
 and cages neatly executed. These birds are of 
 the smaller species, and few of them sing in a 
 domesticated state ; neither do they live long- 
 out of their native hills. I purchased one, ra- 
 ther less than a thrush, delicately formed ; its 
 plumage of a light green colour, with a black 
 pointed beak, an orange-colour top-knot, the 
 throat covered by a fine black down, with a 
 bright purple patch in the centre. This bird is
 
 51 
 
 called the huryali *. It Avas either of too deli- 
 cate a nature to bear a change of climate, or we 
 had not discovered the proper food to nourish 
 it, for it soon shared the general fate, and sur- 
 vived its departure from Moiigh'ier only a fort- 
 night. 
 
 The ebony tliey bring from the hills to this 
 place, in order to convert into furniture, is a 
 fine-grained wood, and bears a beautiful polish. 
 The town itself stands in a fertile valley, with 
 the river Ganges winding in its front. It con- 
 tains a pretty strong fort, situated on an emi- 
 nence, and a number of good brick houses. 
 That of the General, or commanding officer, 
 was an excellent one, built in the European 
 style within the walls of the fort, but command- 
 ing an extensive prospect. While at this place 
 I witnessed a most disgusting, but, I am sorry 
 to say, common occurrence among these bi- 
 goted people. The ceremony commenced by 
 loud shouting, accompanied with what they 
 miscall music, alias, a combination of barbarous 
 sounds produced from different instruments ; 
 and an immense concourse of Hindoos, who soon 
 ranged themselves round a wooden pole of about 
 twenty feet high, fixed upright in the ground. 
 On the top of this pole, in an horizontal posi- 
 tion, were placed three very long bamboos, 
 
 * Huryah is green iu Hindostanee, 
 E 2
 
 52 
 
 from which were quickly suspended three men, 
 (brahmins,) by means of large iron hooks passed 
 through the fleshy part of their backs, imme- 
 diately under the shoulder. These hooks were 
 affixed to rings of the same metal fastened to the 
 bamboo. In this manner they hung for fifteen 
 minutes, swinging round with wonderful velo- 
 city. In order to prevent the flesh from tearing 
 through by the weight of the body, a breadth 
 of cloth was tied round the waist, and made fast 
 also to the hook. 
 
 We were informed that this was an annual 
 and voluntary penance, by which the objects 
 became almost deified, and generally collected 
 a sufficient sum of money to support them the 
 remainder of their lives. What will not avarice, 
 combined with superstition, effect ? I was na- 
 turally desirous to know if these misguided 
 beings were not much exhausted by loss of 
 blood, which I concluded must flow from their 
 wounds. The man to whom I applied for in- 
 formation, smiled, and told me that those who 
 make up their minds to perform this penance, 
 determine on it at least six months before hand, 
 and consequently have their backs prepared for 
 it by boring, just as for an ear-ring, first intro- 
 ducing a small ring, and so gradually increasing 
 its size, until it became what we had witnessed. 
 ** The part," added he, " by constant friction, 
 soon becomes callous ; and what appears to us
 
 53 
 
 so shocking an operation, is by thein scarcely 
 felt." Mark here the cunning of the priest, who, 
 to account for no blood appearing, (they having 
 been kept in ignorance of the preparation,) in- 
 structs the people, that these men being saints, 
 their blood is too precious to be spilled ! 
 
 After remaining two days at Monghier, we 
 continued our route along the water-side. The 
 road was tolerable in itself, but unpleasant from 
 being extremely narrow, and bounded by a high 
 bank on either side ; soon, however, after pass- 
 ing one or two insignificant villages, we struck 
 across the country, driving through groves of 
 mango and tamarind trees alternately, enlivened 
 by cultivation of grain, through which mean- 
 dered a deep pellucid stream called the Retvah, 
 bounded by banks of the liveliest verdure. Not 
 far from this delightful spot, we observed a num- 
 ber of women and children collecting the ber- 
 ries that fell from a large tree (under which they 
 had assembled with baskets) called the mowah 
 tree. From these berries the Hindoos extract an 
 ardent spirit, of which they are extremely fond. 
 They are the size and colour of a white goose- 
 berry, without seeds — sweet, juicy, and scarcely 
 any flavour. 
 
 We crossed the Rewah Nullah at the ferry, 
 .but not in a boat, the stream being too rapid : 
 a substitute for one however appeared in the 
 shape of a square wooden frame, just large
 
 54 
 
 enough to hold one person sittmg cross-legged, 
 with four wooden legs of about a foot long ; 
 the frame being fastened together over the top 
 by plaited twine, similar to the charpiah before 
 described, only more firm, so as not to sink in 
 the middle with any weight. To each leg of this 
 machine was affixed a round, hollow, earthen 
 pot, with the mouth downwards ; while a man 
 to each conducted it through the water with one 
 hand, and swam with the other, to the opposite 
 shore. Not that we landed opposite to the place 
 where we embarked ; for no sooner had I at- 
 tained the middle of the stream, than with the 
 rapidity of lightning I was whirled a mile lower 
 down ; indeed, it appeared quite uncertain 
 where any of us should land ; and scarcely 
 could be imagined a more ridiculous scene than 
 our carriages, baggage, &c. presented. A con- 
 siderable time elapsed before they could be col- 
 lected again. 
 
 'A custom prevails in these provinces of hav- 
 ing oxen to tread their corn, which reminds me 
 of that passage in the law of Moses, wherein he 
 says, *' Thou shalt not muzzle the ox that 
 treadeth out the corn." Unlike the Jewish law- 
 giver, the natives here think it quite necessary ; 
 for you see none that are not muzzled *. The 
 
 * There are no corn mills in this country. The operation 
 of grinding it is performed by placing two flat circular stones 
 
 7
 
 prospect varied to-day with each succeeding 
 lioiir : in some parts were seen hands innume- 
 rable reaping the corn, while in others large 
 herds of cattle appeared regaling in the most 
 luxuriant pasture *. 
 
 The immense mountains we had lately tra- 
 versed, now by degrees receded from our view, 
 and an open country lay before us. After tra- 
 velling about eighteen miles, we reached a vil- 
 lage completely inland, called Barayah, stored 
 with every requisite for travellers. Our tents 
 were not so agreeably placed as we could have 
 wished, having only a single tree to cover them, 
 and that not of sufficient magnitude to afford 
 much shelter, although of a species called the 
 7ieem, which often grows to a great height, and 
 spreads considerably. This description of tree 
 somewhat resembles the beech of England, as to 
 size and general appearance ; but its leaves are 
 
 upon each other, with a stake through the centre, and a handle 
 on the top, which is turned by one woman, while another sup- 
 plies the machine with grain. Both women sit cross-legged on 
 the ground, which is plaistered with a kind of clay made with 
 cow-dung, forming a hard dry floor, so that the meal is pre- 
 served perfectly free from dirt. This method of grinding corn 
 elucidates that portion of Scripture mentioned in Matt. xxiv. 
 41, '* Two women," &c. 
 
 * The oxen of Hindostan have all humps upon their shoul- 
 ders : it is a fleshy substance, about the size of a moderate 
 round of beef. When salted, these humps are most excellent 
 eating ; being regularly streaked, fat and lean.
 
 56 
 
 differently formed, these being long, narrow, 
 and regularly jagged to the point. It flourishes 
 all over the interior of Hindostan, but is seldom 
 found near the coast. The leaves of this tree have 
 the peculiar property of healing flesh-wounds 
 when applied cold ; and as a hot poultice, are 
 equally beneficial in maturing an inflammation, 
 and producing suppuration. When divested of 
 the bark, the wood possesses a smell which is so 
 offensive to snakes, that they will not approach 
 it ; for which reason, when in tents, we made a 
 practice of laying branches round the feet of our 
 beds, particularly on a sandy soil, where these 
 reptiles are chiefly found. I have frequently seen 
 them lured from their holes by the sound of a 
 small pipe, not unlike a shepherd's reed, and 
 kept at bay by a stick newly cut from the neem 
 tree ; during which, a person from behind has 
 contrived to despatch him by a blow on the head 
 — (the only vital part.) 
 
 To compensate for the want of shade, we were 
 placed at Barayah close to a well of most excel- 
 lent water; which is a circumstance of some 
 importance in this climate, but particularly so 
 during the hot winds, when so much is required 
 to wet the tatties. There are several manufacto- 
 ries at Barayah ; the largest of them is of coarse 
 cloth, on account of the East India Company. 
 
 On quitting this place, the following day we 
 drove principally through groves of mango,
 
 57 
 
 whose boughs were bending under the weight 
 of ripe fruit, passed many populous villages, 
 and halted at Derriah-poore. Clumps of bam- 
 boo became less frequent as we journied to- 
 wards the West : they are plants that require 
 constant moisture, and consequently are seen 
 most flourishing in the province of Bengal. I 
 observed also that the goats here were of a much 
 larger size, and that an infinite number of small 
 grey squirrels, striped with black, having long 
 bushy tails, were domiciliated in all the vil- 
 lages; but saw none of the colour we are ac- 
 customed to find in England. 
 
 About midnight, so tremendous a storm of 
 thunder, lightning, and rain, came on, as threa- 
 tened to carry away the tent ; it literally poured 
 down in torrents. I had scarcely time to hurry 
 on my clothes before the water rushed through 
 our tent like a rapid river, which continued for 
 near an hour, and so damaged the tent equi- 
 page, that the march of our baggage was de- 
 layed until morning*, which deprived us of 
 many comforts on our next encamping ground. 
 
 I would advise travellers to arm themselves 
 with patience before they leave home, and not 
 be dismayed, although the path be sometimes 
 rugged, reflecting that the occasional depriva- 
 
 * All the tents not in use, and heavy baggage, cattle, &c. 
 start at night, to be ready on the next encamping ground. 
 
 8
 
 58 
 
 tion of an indulgence never lails to enhance its 
 value. What reconciled me in a great measure 
 to waiting three hours for my breakfast, was, 
 the delightful spot our avant courier had selected 
 for us to spend the day on. It was a verdant 
 turf close to the Ganges, shaded by trees, with 
 an extensive prospect on either side. The air 
 had been cooled by the storm of the preceding 
 night, and every herb breathed fragrance. About 
 a hundred yards from us stood a small romantic 
 cottage belonging to the superintending officer 
 of an invalid station *, at about half a mile dis- 
 tant, called Aloor Ko Choky. Sitting at my 
 writing-desk, I counted above sixty sail of ves- 
 sels laden with merchandize, sailing down, or 
 tracking up, this beautiful river : the traffic on 
 it is scarcely credible to those who have not 
 witnessed it. 
 
 The next morning we proceeded twenty miles 
 farther, and found another cottage belonging to 
 the same officer. The old man in whose charge 
 it had been left, invited us to occupy it : it was 
 delightfully cool, and we passed a most agree- 
 able day. 
 
 The country in this direction is well wooded, 
 although covered by cultivation. It abounds in 
 large populous villages, through which runs an 
 exceedingly good road, enlivened by occasional 
 
 * These villages for Scapoy penbioners are called tannahs.
 
 59 
 
 views of the Ganges. Some long shady laiies 
 through which we passed, reminded me forci- 
 bly of my native country. This place is called 
 TJmal Golah, rather too long a march from 
 ]\Ioor Ko Choky, as we did not reach it until 
 nine o'clock, when the heat had become quite 
 oppressive. It would have been better had we 
 known it to have halted at a place called IBar, 
 through which we passed, about eight miles 
 short of our present encampment. 
 
 This district of Bahar is by far the most po- 
 pulous and flourishing of any I have seen. It is, 
 in fact, the granary of the upper provinces, al- 
 though, properly speaking, not one of them, 
 having been classed with Benares as the centre 
 ones. 
 
 Both the upper and centre provinces are un- 
 der the jurisdiction of the same commissioners. 
 The lovv^er ones have an establishment of their 
 Own, under the immediate superintendance of 
 the Governor General, who resides there. 
 
 Our road from Umal Golah was by no means 
 agreeable, from its running so near the water's 
 edge ; while the bank was, in many places, so 
 broken as to render remaining in the carriage 
 quite unsafe. By alternate riding and walking, 
 therefore, we pursued our way to the village of 
 Bkket-poore, about twelve miles farther, and 
 found our encampment under the shade of some 
 fine large trees, about a hundred yards inland.
 
 60 
 
 The bazar is a good one, but the well-water all 
 bad. 
 
 For the last two days the wind had blown 
 strong from the eastward, and rendered the at- 
 mosphere so cool that we had no occasion for 
 tatties, and could enjoy the delightful prospect 
 around us. 
 
 A most friendly invitation met us here from 
 one of the Judges of the Court of Appeal at 
 Patna, from whence we were only ten miles 
 distant; and another from the superintending 
 surgeon. These attentions are always accom- 
 panied by a present of fruit and vegetables, 
 which are not to be purchased on the road. 
 
 In Bicket-poore and its vicinity, table and other 
 linen is manufactured, for which Patna has been 
 famed from time immemorial. The weavers' 
 looms are placed under large groves of trees, 
 the ground being kept as clean as the floor of 
 any dwelling-house — not a single leaf is suffered 
 to remain on it. These looms are upon the sim- 
 plest plan imaginable, and worked with shut- 
 tles. They are erected in the morning, and 
 taken away in the evening. This part of Bahar 
 is particularly famous for cocoa-nut and palm- 
 trees ; from the latter they make excellent mat- 
 ting to cover the floors of houses. 
 
 The road (as is customary when running by 
 the side of the river) is bad, leading through 
 deep ravines to Futtuah, a very large place, in-
 
 61 
 
 habited only by weavers ; in consequence of 
 which there is no encamping ground, and we 
 were obliged to send our tents sixteen miles 
 farther on, through Patna, to a place called 
 Bankipore, where the Company's civil servants 
 reside. From the eastern to the western gate 
 of Patfia is seven measured miles, in one con- 
 tinued street of shops. The inhabitants are all 
 either Hindoos or Mussulmen. Patna is sup- 
 posed to be, next to Be?ia?^es, the richest place 
 in India. I never saw a place so full of chil- 
 dren — early of a morning you might almost walk 
 upon their heads. Making this observation to 
 a gentleman present, " A Mussulman," said he, 
 " is so desirous that his possessions should de- 
 scend to his posterity, as frequently to avail him- 
 self of a law which empowers a man (in case 
 his wife does not produce a child within some 
 given period) to repudiate her, and marry ano- 
 ther ; for ' A barren woman,' say they, ' is aban- 
 doned of God ; and a man who has no progeny, 
 can never go to heaven.' " 
 
 The city of Patna and its dependencies came 
 into possession of the English in the year 1764. 
 It was governed at that time by * Aleer Kossim 
 Khan, Subah (or chief) of Bengal, with a Ger- 
 man as his General-in-Chief, named Sumi^oo, (or 
 Sombre,) husband to the Begum of that name, 
 
 * Meer signifies a prince.
 
 62 
 
 of whom I .shall have occasion to speak as T pro- 
 ceed. 
 
 After sundry eiigagemcuts at AloorsJiedabad, 
 Patna, &c. &c., and contestmg all the passes 
 over the mountains, even to the gates of ]\Iong- 
 hki\ Meer Kossim Khan was driven into that 
 fortress, where he sustained a siege of nine days, 
 and then capitulated. Previous to this occurrence, 
 Sumroo, with a barbarity almost unparalleled, 
 invited some English gentlemen then at Patna 
 to dine with him ; and in a moment of convi- 
 viality, while seated round his table, he caused 
 them to be massacred *. This outrage, however, 
 was not long unrevenged : Major Adams, of the 
 Company's service, with the Seapoys under his 
 command, in four months from this period com- 
 pleted the conquest of Bengal, driving ATeer 
 Kossim and his followers to seek refuge with 
 Siijah Doiviah, then Emperor of Delhi. 
 
 * Since this period no Englishman has resided within the 
 gates of Patna.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Having many friends a,t Bankipore, we were 
 prevailed upon to remain there some days, wliicli 
 afforded me an opportunity of witnessing some 
 ceremonies of the natives which I had not before 
 seen, and of learning an incident so truly cha- 
 racteristic of the apathy of a Hindoo, that I can- 
 not avoid mentioning it here. 
 
 A malefactor having committed some crime 
 for which he was sentenced to be hanged, re- 
 ceived the awful fiat with so much coolness, 
 that the Judge was disposed to believe the man 
 had not understood him, and accordingly caused 
 it to be repeated by one of the native counsel- 
 lors. The man replied, that he understood the 
 Judge very well. " You are to be hanged to- 
 morrow," repeated the barrister. " Saheb ko 
 koosij" " as the gentleman pleases," returned 
 the culprit, and followed his conductor out of 
 court, apparently unconcerned. A few days 
 elapsed before the sentence could be put in 
 execution ; and when brought forth, as they 
 supposed, to suffer the punishment of his crime, 
 there appeared quite a different person. This 
 being reported to the Judge, he was ordered to
 
 64 
 
 be brought before him, and it was discovered 
 that the other had given this man three rupees 
 to be hanged in his place. The former one had 
 of course made his escape ; and, strange as it 
 may appear, the substitute was afraid of being- 
 discharged, lest he might insist upon his refund- 
 ing the three rupees, which he had spent, he 
 said, on metais, cakes of which they are parti- 
 cularly fond, made of sugar and flour. 
 
 Another instance, though of a less serious 
 nature, occurred in the person of a palankeen 
 bearer in our service, who asked leave to go to 
 his village and be married. This was the only 
 time of the year they do marry. His master 
 told him that he could not spare him imme- 
 diately, but that, before the marrying season 
 was over, he should go. '^ A, eha Saheb," *' very 
 well, Sir," replied the bearer, '' next year will 
 do as well." Hence it may be concluded that 
 parties in this country do not always marry from 
 attachment ; in fact, girls are betrothed by their 
 parents before they attain their seventh birth- 
 day, without regard to difference of age in the 
 man — being of the same caste is quite sufficient. 
 When all arrangements are made, the bride 
 elect, decked out in all her finery, is introduced 
 to her intended husband, and then retires to 
 feast with the females of both families ; while 
 the males regale separately for two or three 
 days, or as long as the parents of the girl can
 
 65 
 
 afford it*. They then return to their several 
 occupations; and she is allotted an apartment 
 in her father's house, out of which she must 
 not stir again unveiled. About three years after 
 this ceremony, she is supposed capable of ma- 
 naging a family, and the husband returns to 
 claim her. The head man of the village is then 
 applied to, who draws up the marriage contract, 
 which he signs himself, and several other wit- 
 nesses. They send cardamum seeds, as notices 
 of invitation, (or cloves, if they are rich,) to all 
 the persons they wish to see, notifying by a 
 special messenger the day the marriage is to 
 take place. These tokens are sent three days 
 previous to the grand entertainment ; but a 
 smaller one is provided on the two former days, 
 when none but very intimate friends are ex- 
 pected. On the second day, the women (all 
 except the bride, and any sister or relative that 
 she may have under seven years of age) go in 
 procession to the house of the bridegroom, and 
 tinge his head and the palms of his hands with 
 mindy, a sweet-smelling shrub, which, when 
 bruised and mixed with water, produces a beau- 
 tiful red colour. After this operation he adorns 
 his person by putting on a yellow turban and 
 waistband, with a pair of yellow cloth shoes, 
 and mounting a horse or poney as gaily capa- 
 
 * The males and females of families never eat together. 
 F
 
 66 
 
 risoned as himself, returns with some of his own 
 friends at the head of the procession, when, as 
 I before mentioned, the parties regale them- 
 selves^ — the men on the outside of the house, 
 under an awning erected for the occasion, the 
 women within. Every member of the family to 
 which she belongs, feels it incumbent upon them 
 on this occasion to present some pledge of friend- 
 ship. I have seen the daughter of a rich mer- 
 chant, or of a banker, go off with two or three 
 loaded waggons in her suite. The bridal party 
 spend most part of their time in feasting, smok- 
 ing, and parading the streets, accompanied by 
 all sorts of noisy instruments, to the great an- 
 noyance of the more peaceable inhabitants, par- 
 ticularly at night. The bride is conveyed from 
 her father's house in a kind of covered cart, 
 with curtains drawn closely round, (in which 
 she contrives sometimes to make a small frac- 
 ture just to peep through,) to that of her hus- 
 band, attended by himself and his friends, some 
 on horseback, some on foot, (but every one 
 sports a little bit of yellow upon his person,) 
 firing matchlocks, flourishing swords, and scam- 
 pering round the bride's carriage with every de- 
 monstration of joy. Many other vehicles filled 
 with company follow in her train, and the ce- 
 remony concludes with a wedding supper. The 
 practice of using mindy is not confined to mar- 
 riage ceremonies : no woman in Hindostan con- 
 
 1
 
 G7 
 
 siders herself dressed without it. They rub it 
 inside their hands and fingers, as well as at the 
 roots of their nails, both of fingers and toes ; 
 while to heighten the brilliancy of their eyes, 
 they describe a black line close to the edge of 
 the lid with a powder mixed in water, called 
 Soolmah : this they perform by dipping a small 
 wooden bodkin into the mixture, and drawing 
 it gently along the eye-lash when the eye is 
 closed. 
 
 This must have been an ancient custom in the 
 East, for it is spoken of in the second book of 
 Kings, " She put her eyes in painting." They 
 also consider long hair as one of their princi- 
 pal ornaments, cutting it only when the moon 
 is in the increase ; and it cannot be denied 
 that these women have the finest hair of any 
 in the world ; perhaps the quantity of oil which 
 they daily apply to the roots, may be an addi- 
 tional reason for its being so extremely soft and 
 luxuriant. 
 
 The Hindoos are uniformly tenacious in what- 
 ever respects ancient custom, but particularly so 
 in regard to the difference of caste. A young 
 Hindoo girl, of superior beauty, had by chance 
 been seen and admired by a youth of the same 
 religion, but of inferior caste. Knowing the lat- 
 ter to be an insurmountable barrier to the pa- 
 rents' consent, he at length prevailed on her to 
 
 F 2
 
 68 
 
 elope with and marry him in his own village. 
 Her family soon discovered their retreat, and 
 contrived by a stratagem to get her again in 
 their power. Accordingly, her mother was de- 
 spatched to negociate the pretended reconci- 
 liation, and prevail on her to return, in order 
 that the marriage might be properly celebrated 
 at her father's house. The poor girl, delighted 
 at the prospect of so fortunate an issue, readily 
 accompanied her mother, and was received by 
 her father and brother with open arms. When 
 three days had elapsed, and no marriage feast 
 been proclaimed, she began to suspect the trea- 
 chery, and determined on seizing the first op- 
 portunity of returning to the husband she had 
 chosen. A favourable one seemed to present 
 itself; but she had not been gone long, before 
 she was overtaken by her brother, who affected 
 to sympathise with, and offered to see her safe 
 home. The road lay through an unfrequented 
 path, which taking advantage of, he drew his 
 sword*, and severed her head from the body. 
 She was found the next morning weltering in 
 her blood. The father and brother were imme- 
 diately apprehended, and, wonderful to relate, 
 not only confessed the crime, but exulted in the 
 accomplishment of it : nor was it in the power of 
 
 * The meanest peasant in these provinces wears a sword.
 
 69 
 
 the Judge to punish them ; for, unhappily, the 
 Mahometan law, by which natives of every de- 
 scription are tried, is so arbitrary as to invest 
 parents with unlimited authority over their chil- 
 dren, even to the depriving them of life ; and it 
 being proved in evidence that the son only 
 obeyed his father's orders, they were both ac- 
 quitted. 
 
 The Hindoos are the original inhabitants, and 
 by far the largest population in this country, 
 although the sovereigns and chiefs are Maho- 
 metans, being descendants of those Tartar, 
 Persian, or Arabic princes, that formerly con- 
 quered and gave laws to Hindostan. The Brah- 
 mins however remain despotic in all points that 
 regard religion and superstitious ceremonies. 
 These men worship bulls, peacocks, &c. Mon- 
 keys are also held sacred by them ; and a vege- 
 table called toolsey, with many other things that 
 I do not at this moment recollect. They do not 
 eat any thing that is not prepared by one of 
 their own caste, and commonly dress their own 
 food. To kill a Brahmin is one of the five sins 
 for which, according to their creed, there is 
 no expiation. There are a variety of castes, or 
 tribes ; but the order of pre-eminence is indis- 
 putably fixed. An Hindoo of inferior caste would 
 not presume to adopt the customs of a su- 
 perior ; severe punishment, and even death, 
 would be the consequence. A Hindoo, or any
 
 70 
 
 other persuasion, may, on payment of a fine, 
 and submitting to some trifling ceremonies, be- 
 come a Mussulman * ; but no one can become a 
 Hindoo : he must actually be born of Hindoo 
 parents, or he cannot embrace their religion. 
 
 The Hindoos are the only cultivators ef the 
 soil ; and although now peaceful cultivators of it, 
 they have not laid aside their ancient custom of 
 taking into the field their sword and shield. 
 They are merchants also, and bankers ; conse- 
 quently, Patna being a mercantile place, its 
 principal inhabitants are Hindoos. 
 
 On quitting Bankipore we travelled on a fine 
 level road, for about eight miles in a straight 
 line, to Danapore, the military station of this 
 district for infantry regiments. Here are excel- 
 lent barracks for nearly four thousand men, and 
 good accommodation at a little distance for their 
 officers. Danapore shows an extensive front to 
 the Ganges, on whose bank it stands. It con- 
 tains a capital bazar, and a number of good me- 
 chanics, by whom furniture and carriages, in 
 the European style, are neatly executed. Lea- 
 ther is also cured and dressed here in a superior 
 style. Their boots, shoes, harness, &c. are 
 equal to those brought from England. Some 
 English shop-keepers have settled at this place ; 
 
 * Mussulmen are forbidden by their religion to take interest 
 for money, they therefore seldom engage in trade.
 
 71 
 
 but the natives imitate so well, that, I am told, 
 my countrymen do not find the business answer. 
 Wax candles are better made here than any- 
 where, and are indeed most excellent ; in short, 
 either here or at Patna, every thing for orna- 
 menting house or person may be procured for 
 money. 
 
 From hence we proceeded to Moneah, distant 
 only eight miles. This was formerly a station 
 for cavalry ; but since the acquisition of terri- 
 tory in the western, or upper provinces, it has 
 been evacuated, and bears at this time no trace 
 of a cantonment. The village of Moneah consists 
 of one street a mile and a half in length ; beyond 
 which are many religious buildings of consider- 
 able antiquity, all in good repair. In the centre 
 of each enclosure is a deep square pond, en- 
 closed by brick walls, not higher than the foot- 
 path, with steps down the four sides, orna- 
 mented by figures carved in stone. 
 
 The evening of our arrival happened to be a 
 festival, so that we had the pleasure to see these 
 temples decorated with flowers, brilliantly illu- 
 minated, and thronged with people. Their mu- 
 sical instruments do not in general produce 
 agreeable sounds to an English ear ; but really, 
 on this occasion, they were rather pleasing than 
 otherwise. We found here such fine pasture for 
 the cattle, that we halted the next day to in- 
 dulge them. I also remarked some fine peepk
 
 72 
 
 trees, the branches and leaves of which form the 
 principal food for elephants. 
 
 We now crossed a wide navigable river, called 
 the Somie, famous for beautiful pebbles and the 
 salubrity of its water, and took up our abode 
 for a few days at the house of the Judge at 
 Arrah, whose Lady had been many years col- 
 lecting these stones, and had a very valuable 
 assortment : they bear a high polish, and vary 
 considerably as to colour. The most curious 
 and admired are pure milky white, with a small 
 green weed in the centre of each, as distinctly 
 traced as if it had been done with a pencil. She 
 kindly presented me with a set, and we parted 
 reluctantly on both sides. Arrah is a notorious 
 place for snakes. 
 
 Our next encampment was at Moraad Gunge. 
 The road to it is remarkably good, and beauti- 
 fully diversified with trees. We passed through 
 long vistas of different kinds, completely shel- 
 tered from the sun. This is a plentiful country 
 for geese, and no less famous for banditti, who 
 often surprise the sleeping traveller with a drawn 
 sword, sharpened at either edge, flourishing over 
 him. They seldom attack armed persons, their 
 chief object being to obtain plunder, with which 
 they are off like lightning ; and the detection of 
 them is very difficult. 
 
 Bodgepoore, the next place we came to, is one 
 of the least civilized we had met with, and we
 
 7S 
 
 might be truly said to have quitted the haunts 
 of tigers, and entered the more ferocious ones 
 of men. Scarcely had we retired for the night, 
 before an alarm of thieves was given ; but our 
 people being upon the alert, it soon subsided. 
 A short time afterwards an immense cavalcade, 
 on foot as well as on horseback, and in vehicles 
 of different descriptions, passed by, which we 
 understood to be a wedding party conducting 
 the bride, daughter to a rich merchant of Patna, 
 to her future habitation, and that the wealth 
 with them was considerable. All was again 
 quiet, but not destined to remain so ; for pre- 
 sently we heard the report of fire-arms, and 
 concluding that the new-married couple were 
 attacked, most of our servants instantly followed 
 their master in the direction whence the sounds 
 proceeded, and fortunately arrived in time to 
 save the property, but too late, alas! to pre- 
 vent bloodshed — two of their attendants were 
 already cut down, never to rise again in this 
 world. The banditti, or dakoities, as they are 
 called, upon perceiving so strong a reinforce- 
 ment made off, vowing vengeance against all 
 parties. These robbers are pretty accurately 
 conjectured to be in the pay of a rajah who re- 
 sides there. Some years ago, before the coun- 
 try was cleared of underwood and thicket, no 
 person could pass that road without being at- 
 tacked ; but on the appointment of Mr. Deane
 
 74 
 
 to the collectorship of Arrah, he caused the 
 jungle to be cleared away, and the lands put in 
 a state of cultivation ; so that having no shelter, 
 they were afraid to continue their depredations, 
 which are not any thing like so frequent as they 
 were before. 
 
 Indigo flourishes particularly well in this part 
 of India.
 
 CHAPTER VIL 
 
 The next morning we reached Buxar to break- 
 fast, and were most hospitably received by the 
 Colonel Commandant and his family, who reside 
 in the fort. Seven ladies and four gentlemen 
 assembled at this meal — a disproportion very 
 unusual in this country. The battle of BiLvar^ 
 with the reduction of its fort, makes no incon- 
 siderable figure in history. Some monuments 
 of the English officers that fell before it still re- 
 main. It is now a station for invalid pensioners 
 of the Company's European regiments. From 
 the eminence on which it stands, being not more 
 than a hundred yards from the Ganges, the 
 windings of that river are seen in great perfec- 
 tion : the vast extent of country it commands, 
 altogether forming a most delightful prospect. 
 
 Soon after breakfast, a servant of the Colonel's 
 came running in to say that a tiger had been 
 seen in a patch of sugar-cane near the village, 
 and that many people were gone out after him ; 
 elephants and horses were immediately ordered 
 to be got ready, and our gentlemen sallied forth. 
 About an hour after, a clergyman, one of the 
 party, returned, more pale if possible than 
 Hamlet's ghost. He had seen the tiger, been 
 thrown from his horse, and scrambled back he
 
 76 
 
 knew not how. We could scarcely pity him^ 
 for he had mounted in spite of all remon- 
 strance. Every one told him how dangerous it 
 was to pursue a tiger in any other mode than on 
 an elephant: but he had " a remarkably steady 
 horse, who would start at nothing, and gallop 
 away from any thing:" the latter proved true; 
 for he galloped away from his master, and was 
 not heard of until the evening. The other gen- 
 tlemen succeeded in killing the tiger, who re- 
 ceived nineteen rifle balls before he fell. 
 
 On the first of May we bid adieu to our 
 friends at Bu.var, and crossed the Ganges to 
 Mahomedabad, a town about twelve miles from 
 the opposite shore. The road to it was pretty 
 fair ; many large groves of mango and tamarind 
 trees appeared near it; in one of the former 
 they had pitched our tents. A canal runs 
 through the town, navigable only in the winter 
 season, but at all times containing a sufficient 
 quantity of water for the purposes of irrigation. 
 The distance from hence to Ghazipore is nearly 
 the same, and a dehghtful drive it is, being 
 chiefly between rows of large trees on a broad 
 level road. 
 
 Although solicited by the Judge of Ghazipore 
 to take up our abode at his house, we preferred 
 pitching the tents on a plain between the mili- 
 tary and civil stations, that we might be near 
 our friends at both. On the day of our arrival 
 we dined with the General in command, and the
 
 77 
 
 day following with the Judge of the district. 
 The heat of Ghazipoi^e at this season is beyond 
 description : the soil is a deep sand, which when 
 thoroughly heated continues so for a length of 
 time ; while the country is flat, and every 
 where covered with buildings. It certainly felt 
 many degrees hotter here than at Bua^ar. Gha- 
 zifore is famous for the manufacture of cloth, 
 particularly of the kinds used for shirts and bed- 
 linen, which, besides being beautifully fine, are 
 very durable. Otta of roses, and rose-water 
 also, are produced here in great perfection ; in- 
 deed the country round Ghazifort is one com- 
 plete rose garden. 
 
 On the morning of the 4th we quitted Ghazi- 
 pore, and reached the village of Niah Seraiy 
 where a patch of fine large mango trees afforded 
 us ample shelter : near them was a well with 
 plenty of water, pure to the eye, but extremely 
 nauseous to the taste ; from which we judged it 
 to possess some chalybeate properties. 
 
 From hence we continued our route to Side- 
 poorCy or rather a few miles beyond it. As the 
 morning proved remarkably cool for the season, 
 and the road good, we did not halt there, but 
 proceeded to cross a ferry over the river Goomty*^ 
 so called from its numerou's windings. This 
 stream is fortunately narrow, for the boats are 
 
 * The Goomty swarms with otters.
 
 78 
 
 mere nut-shells, and badly constructed. Our 
 tent was close to the opposite shore. From this 
 place to Chobipore we drove the next morning, 
 chiefly through ravines, and within a short dis- 
 tance of the Ganges the whole way. Four years 
 ago this road was almost impassable; it has 
 lately undergone a complete repair, and is now 
 comparatively good. 
 
 From Chobipore to Benares is a beautiful drive 
 on an excellent road, between avenues of trees 
 the whole way. We reached the house of a 
 friend to breakfast, and remained there until the 
 10th, dining the first and last days with him, 
 and the intermediate ones with the General 
 commanding, and the Chief Judge of the Court 
 of Appeal. 
 
 Benai^es is one of the largest cities in India, 
 and perhaps the richest. It extends five miles 
 along the bank of the river, and three miles in- 
 land. It has never been completely conquered 
 by the Mahometans ; between whom and their 
 Hindoo neighbours no good understanding pre- 
 vails. It requires no little vigilance on the part 
 of the British Government to keep them tolerably 
 civil to each other. Half the city is inhabited 
 by Hindoos, the other half by Mussulmen, as 
 perfectly distinct as if the division were marked 
 by a line ; yet, during their festivals, it is the 
 most difficult thing in the world to prevent their 
 interfering with each other. This is the only
 
 79 
 
 place in which so rooted an enmity appears, 
 and it is kept alive by the Hindoos boasting 
 that this, their most sacred city, was never 
 conquered. It is a system of policy on the part 
 of the English to protect, as far as is in their 
 power, the religious ceremonies of both ; since 
 it is chiefly owing to these means that we keep 
 our possessions in the country. Benares is par- 
 ticularly reverenced by the Hindoos, as they 
 have a tradition that their principal deity sprung 
 from thence. At particular seasons of the year 
 it is the resort of pilgrims from all parts of the 
 eastern world. The Hindoos, its ancient inha- 
 bitants, were attacked, and for a short time 
 overpowered, by the Emperor Aurungzebe ; but 
 by degrees regained their footing, and are at 
 this time the greater proportion of its inhabi- 
 tants. This prince, in order to evince his tri- 
 umph, caused the places of Hindoo worship to 
 be only partially destroyed, and Musjeeds, or 
 Mussulman ones, to be erected on the same 
 scite. This pitiful act has been the source of 
 much discontent, and even bloodshed. In the 
 month of November, 1809, so serious a dispute 
 arose in consequence, that it became necessary 
 to send for troops from Ghazipore to assist those 
 stationed at Benares, to prevent a general mas- 
 sacre; and it is highly probable that while a 
 vestige of these ancient buildings remain, their 
 animosity will not subside. There is always
 
 80 
 
 praying going on, of one kind or other — the 
 streets are overrun by their different priests. 
 When the Brahmins wish to assemble a congre- 
 gation, or at the usual hour of prayer, they mount 
 to the top of one of the minarets and blow a horn ; 
 and this happens two or three times a day ; while 
 Mussulmen go about tingling a little bell. 
 
 You may always know when a Mahometan is 
 becoming desperate or enraged, by his turban 
 being pulled over the left temple, leaving the 
 other side exposed. On this signal, those of his 
 friends who are inclined to support him, arm 
 themselves, rally round, and soon the affray 
 commences. " Go, set thy turban straight," is 
 a kind of defiance, expressive also of contempt, 
 which they are a good deal in the habit of using 
 to each other. This puts me in mind of an old 
 saying, ** Do you cock your hat at me?" — 
 ** Sir, I cock my hat." 
 
 There are a set of people (Mussulmen) at this 
 place called bankas, or prize-fighters, who are 
 often extremely troublesome. An English gen- 
 tleman was met, a short time since, by one of 
 these on a narrow tracking path by the side of 
 the river, where there was barely room to pass : 
 neither seemed disposed to turn out of a straight, 
 line ; but putting on a very fierce look, the 
 Mussulman pulled the turban over his left eye- 
 brow, and drew his sword, muttering kaufuVy 
 which means infidel. The gentleman had no-
 
 81 
 
 thing else for it, than to make a dart past, and 
 push his opponent down the bank ; but his life 
 would have paid the forfeit of this temerity, if 
 he had not quickly escaped to his boat, and 
 shoved off. 
 
 This place is justly celebrated for the beauty 
 of its manufactures, particularly of gauzes, 
 (white and coloured,) either spotted, sprigged, 
 or striped, with silver or gold, worn by natives 
 of rank as turbans; also a kind of stuff for 
 dresses, called k'mkob: this is composed of dif- 
 ferent coloured silks, brocaded with gold or sil- 
 ver sprigs, forming a valuable and superb tex- 
 ture. In the houses of great men, you frequently 
 see cushions (the only seats they use) covered 
 with it. Ivory is turned here with great taste, 
 particularly chess men, a game of which natives 
 of rank are generally fond. It is likewise a 
 good place to purchase pearls, diamonds, and 
 other precious stones, as well as shawls, there 
 being a number of merchants residing here who 
 trade largely in these articles ; sandal wood, 
 boxes, children's toys most beautifully exe- 
 cuted, &c. &c. They also excel in the art of 
 dyeing, their colours are remarkably fine. 
 
 Mahometans have four important periods in 
 the year. First, the birth of Mahomet, which 
 continues seven days, when every Mussulman 
 that can afford it kills a goat to regale his 
 friends. 
 
 G
 
 82 
 
 The second is the fast of the Ramzaan, or 
 Ramdcum, (Lent,) commencing on the first of 
 September, and including the period of thirty 
 days, in which time Mahomet is said to have 
 travelled from Alecca to Medina. During this 
 season his followers are required to abstain 
 from animal food. A strict observer will not 
 smoke tobacco, or drink water, from sun-rise 
 to sun-set, or omit attending prayers at the 
 mosque at noon, where every one mutters his 
 own ; and when the moollah (priest) thinks they 
 have had sufficient time, he begins. Every 
 Mussulman, when he prays, sets his face to- 
 wards Mecca, first standing, then sitting on his 
 heels, bending his body forward at intervals, so 
 that his forehead may touch the ground at each 
 obeisance. The Ramzaan ends by a grand feast- 
 ing. 
 
 The third is the commencement of their new 
 year, computed by the lunar month, when the 
 property of every man is estimated, and a tenth 
 of it collected to support the poor. On this oc- 
 casion they cleanse, thoroughly repair, and 
 beautify their dwellings. 
 
 A fourth is called the Moharum, to comme- 
 morate the deaths of Hussan and Houssein, two 
 brothers, who were killed on the plains of Ker- 
 bela, near Mecca, in endeavouring to defend 
 each other. It commences on the 10th of Octo- 
 ber, and lasts ten days ; during which the Ma-
 
 83 
 
 hometans wear green turbans, their mourning 
 colour, as is yellow that of rejoicing. During 
 this period they march in procession through 
 the streets, following a decorated bier contain- 
 ing two coffins, round which they occasionally 
 discharge fire-arms to denote the cause, flourish- 
 ing drawn swords, &c. It is extremely danger- 
 ous for a person of a different persuasion to touch 
 any part of this paraphernalia ; for those who 
 accompany it are worked up to such a pitch of 
 fanaticism, that they would not hesitate to sa- 
 crifice him on the spot. It is really lamentable 
 to see with what vehemence they beat their 
 breasts, crying out, *' Houssein, Hussan, Hus- 
 san, Houssein," until they are so bruised, and 
 hoarse that you can scarcely hear them. Seve- 
 ral of these biers are seen in different parts of the 
 town, which in the evening are surrounded by 
 lamps. The people watch them to prevent their 
 being extinguished. Houssein was the son of 
 All, and married Fatima, the daughter of Ma- 
 homet. All was Mahomet's nephew. 
 
 This mournful scene is immediately succeeded 
 by a festival of the Hindoos, sacred to the God 
 of Wealth. It is the beginning of ^/^eir year, and 
 answers by our computation to a period between 
 the I5th of October and the 15th of November, 
 as the moon happens to be, commencing on the 
 tenth day after the full moon. On this occasion 
 they illuminate their houses and temples ; dress 
 
 o 2
 
 84 
 
 ill their best apparel, covered with wreaths of 
 flowers ; parading the streets with music, fire- 
 works, &c. ; and indulging in every species of 
 dissipation. Previous to this festival the Hin- 
 doos whitewash their houses, merchants take 
 an account of their stock, and settle their yearly 
 accounts ; when their treasure chests, covered 
 with silk and flowers, are carried triumphantly 
 before them. 
 
 On the 10th of May, the wind blowing into- 
 lerably hot, we bid adieu to Benares, making a 
 march of sixteen miles to a large town called 
 Tumunshabad ; and the next day proceeded to 
 Gopee Gunge, where I purchased some carpets 
 equal to those made at Wilton, in Wiltshire. 
 This place is twenty miles from our last encamp- 
 ment. From hence to Sidabad the road was very 
 indifferent, particularly for the last eight miles, 
 which being in the dominions of the Nawaab of 
 Oude, whose seat of government is at Luclmow, 
 some distance from it, had been totally ne- 
 glected ; and so dangerous is this part of the 
 country considered on account of thieves who 
 murder as well as plunder, that we made one 
 long march, instead of two short ones, to get 
 out of it, although met at Sidabad by two armed 
 horsemen, sent by the Judge of Allahabad foi" 
 our protection ; but " a burnt child dreads the 
 fire," and we had on a former occasion owed 
 our lives to stratagem at this very place. The
 
 85 
 
 attacking party creep into the camp upun their 
 hands and knees, armed with two-edged knives, 
 quite naked, and oiled all over to prevent being 
 caught ; and often come in such numbers, that 
 it is impossible to escape them. 
 
 We now entered a ferry-boat, in order to 
 cross over to Allahabad, which is situate on the 
 opposite bank of the Ganges. Not without dif- 
 ficulty was this desirable end accomplished ; for 
 about midway, a bank of sand had lately made 
 its appearance, extending at least a quarter of a 
 mile over. This it was necessary to pass, and re- 
 embark, as we were told, on the other side of it. 
 This bank being a quicksand, I was advised to 
 keep moving while the horse was putting into 
 the carriage ; and even in that short space of 
 time he sunk considerably above the fetlock 
 joint, which so alarmed him, that the moment 
 we were seated he plunged forward, darting 
 carriage and all into the opposite stream. For- 
 tunately for us, it proved fordable ; but the 
 force of the stream carried us much lower down 
 than we intended to have gone. For above fif- 
 teen minutes we were in this perilous situation. 
 To say that I had no fears, would be deviating 
 from the truth^ — I certainly did feel considerably 
 alarmed, but endeavoured to suppress it, that 
 I might not confuse my charioteer. The water 
 was one instant running through the carriage, 
 ihe next, one wheel was upon a b;ink (»!" sand,
 
 8f) 
 
 and then we sunk altogether in a hole. The 
 horse was powerful, and he had a skilful driver ; 
 so that, with the aid of Providence, we at length 
 landed in safety. An almost perpendicular bank 
 of three or four feet, to ascend, was nothing 
 after the danger we had passed ; and the horse 
 did not seem less sensible than ourselves of our 
 escape, for with one plunge he drew the car- 
 riage upon even ground. Here we met the 
 Judge's chariot, which conveyed us to his 
 house about three miles farther. Allahabad was 
 formerly a fortified city, with a strong fortress 
 and palace, built by the Emperor Acbar at the 
 confluence of the rivers Jumna and Ganges ; but 
 having for some years been neglected, it was 
 rapidly falling to decay, until repaired and gar- 
 risoned by the British Government. A consi- 
 derable revenue is derived at this place from 
 the Mahrattas, who come at particular seasons 
 of the year to perform their ablutions. The 
 Bew city is a mile and a half inland. Fish is 
 particularly fine here, and in great abundance. 
 
 During our stay at Allahabad, it was under- 
 stood that a Hindoo woman had signified her in- 
 tention to end her existence on the funeral pile 
 of her husband. The Judge, with whom we 
 were on a visit, sent for her father, and endea- 
 voured to prevail on him to dissuade her. He 
 said he had done all he could ; but she was 
 firmly determined upon it. The Judge then
 
 ■ 87 
 
 sent for her, but talked with as little success ; 
 she was bent upon immortalizing her name, and, 
 as she said, of showing her family the way to 
 heaven. In short, the day was fixed, and a gen- 
 tleman who was present gave me a description 
 of this horrid ceremony. An immense con- 
 course of people having assembled, her ap- 
 proach was announced by the blowing of horns 
 and beating of drums : next came a number of 
 Brahmins, bearing lighted torches, and singing- 
 some appropriate stanzas to inspire this victim 
 of credulity, who followed, attended by her 
 relations and friends, all bearing torches but 
 herself. She was richly dressed, having her 
 hands, neck, and feet, covered with ornaments. 
 The dead body of her husband was carried on a 
 bier immediately before her. It was then placed 
 upon the funeral pile, the priests forming a cir- 
 cle round. The father and mother having led 
 the young woman within the circle, left her 
 there, and retired among the crowd. Musifc, 
 or rather discordant sounds, struck up, and the 
 Bi^ahmins again sung, while she marched slowly 
 round the pile ; when, divesting herself of her 
 ornaments, with wonderful presence of mind, 
 she distributed them to her weeping friends ; 
 tlien, exchanging her veil of white muslin for 
 one of crimson, she was presented with a lighted 
 torch, (the Brahmins meantime exhorting her 
 by songs and gestures to be firm,) and again
 
 88 
 
 marched round the pile. She stopped a few 
 moments, salaamed to all she knew, then putting 
 the torch into the hand of her father, she calmly- 
 ascended the funeral pile, and seated herself by 
 the side of her husband, amid the shouts and 
 plaudits of the multitude. Her father, he be- 
 lieved, set fire to the pile; but a number of 
 torches were instantly applied, drums beating, 
 trumpets sounding, horns blowing, and guns 
 firing, so that all was at once a scene of confu- 
 sion and noise, sufficient to have drowned her 
 cries if she had uttered any. Among other 
 things, he observed that they threw a quantity 
 of oil, salt, and dry straw, to increase the fury 
 of the flame ; and in less than ten minutes, no- 
 thing remained but ashes. What rendered this 
 sacrifice the more unnatural, was, his being an 
 old man, and she a young woman ; but then he 
 was a Brahmin ! and it is considered incumbent 
 on the widow of a Brahmin to pay this respect 
 to his remains, or become an outcast from her 
 family for ever. These unfortunate women are 
 taught to believe that, by this single act, they 
 expiate not only their own, but the sins of all 
 their family, and that their souls fly instantly 
 to Paradise. In some instances, I was told that 
 the priests are obliged to assist their exhorta- 
 tions by copious draughts of opium, which first 
 intoxicates, then stupifies their victim. The 
 British Government in India are doing all they
 
 89 
 
 can to prevent the barbarous custom, by not 
 suffering it to take place within reach of their 
 troops ; but the deluded natives find means to 
 evade their vigilance. 
 
 The origin of this sacrifice is by some imputed 
 to the extreme jealousy of the men, others to 
 the conduct of the women themselves, who are 
 uniformly skilled in the properties of herbs and 
 drugs, and have not unfrequently been known 
 to have recourse to them, on finding themselves 
 mismatched in wedlock. Girls having no option, 
 are often married to old decrepid men, who use 
 them like slaves, and are so jealous, that when 
 out of their sight they are invariably under lock 
 and key. 
 
 Tradition indeed relates, that the circum- 
 stance of poisoning husbands was at one time so 
 frequent, that the Brahmins established this 
 mode of securing their own safety. 
 
 The day following I was attacked by inflamma- 
 tion on the lungs, which detained us here for se- 
 veral days. We then proceeded to Kojikerabad, 
 distant from Allahabad twenty-four miles ; but, 
 with the assistance of our friend's horses, we 
 were enabled to accomplish it with great ease. 
 Our pedestrian domestics made two marches of 
 it — they were accordingly dispatched the day 
 before. We drove next day to the house of a 
 friend at Kurrah, twelve miles farther, where 
 we remained two days.
 
 90 
 
 Kurrah is a very ancient city, formerly car- 
 rying on considerable traffic in cloth, muslins, 
 table-linen, &c. The remains of some magnifi- 
 cent mausoleums are still in existence. This, 
 like most other Mussulman towns, is well sup- 
 plied with poultry, eggs, milk, vegetables, and 
 fruit, and every other requisite for travellers. 
 Diamonds are found in this province ; but they 
 are not an article of commerce, on account of 
 the great expense necessary to work the mines. 
 
 The heat of the weather had now become so 
 great, that it was judged preferable to march in 
 the evening instead of the morning ; we conse- 
 quently started about six o'clock on the 2nd of 
 June, and pursued our journey as far as Haut 
 Go?2g, a place of great antiquity, but rapidly 
 falling to decay.
 
 CHAPTER Vlll. 
 
 Here the remains only of spacious mansions are 
 to be seen. The country is overgrown by a thick 
 low jungle, (underwood,) through which the 
 road lies — it is consequently very bad. A re- 
 cent and partial storm of rain had fallen so 
 heavily that we actually waded through mud 
 for nearly fourteen miles. Two miles farther 
 brought us to Futtehpore, where we occupied the 
 house of a Nawaab for two days, which gave us 
 an opportunity of seeing the place. It is a large 
 town full of inhabitants, chiefly Mussulmeji, 
 some of whom were very attentive in showing 
 the beauties and curiosities of it, and, amongst 
 others, a jail that had lately been built by Go- 
 vernment, where the prisoners supported them- 
 selves by working at the loom. This is a great 
 punishment to the generality of them, who would 
 otherwise sit with their hookahs in their mouths, 
 listening to a twice told tale, and smoking until 
 they fell asleep. It happened to be Friday (their 
 Sabbath) when we were there, so the looms 
 were not at work ; but the plan pursued is most 
 excellent. Whatever a man can earn beyond 
 what is necessary for his support, forms a fund, 
 which is given to him when the term of his pro ■
 
 92 
 
 bation is expired, in order that distress may not 
 be pleaded as an excuse for crime. 
 
 Between Haiit Gong and Fuitehpore is a vil- 
 lage, famous for turning wooden utensils ; we 
 purchased some that were extremely neat. The 
 country is flat and low ; the surface of it is a 
 fine white sand, in many places overrun with a 
 small prickly bush^ in others with a broad-leafed 
 shrub, called dok, from which exudes a gum 
 that produces an elegant varnish for the painter, 
 and a valuable article in medicine. 
 
 As the moon was not expected to rise until a 
 late hour, we commenced our journey this even- 
 ing by torch light. About eight o'clock we came 
 to a spot where, the guide told us, seven native 
 travellers had been murdered ten nights before, 
 and the perpetrators had not yet been appre- 
 hended. This account led me to scrutinize the 
 countenance of the narrator, for, as it is custo- 
 mary to take guides from one village to another, 
 they are sometimes conjectured to be a party 
 concerned in these transactions ; I could disco- 
 ver, however, nothing but vacancy in his. It 
 is lamentable to find instances of cruelty and 
 avarice so common. So great is the thirst of 
 gain in this country, that for a single rupee they 
 have been known to deprive a fellow-creature 
 of existence ; and were they not by nature 
 cowardly, they would be a most formidable 
 people to live amongst. But, strange as it may
 
 93 
 
 appear, there is an awe about a European that 
 they cannot overcome, unless he be asleep, and 
 then he takes care to be well guarded. 
 
 Murder, by the Mahometan law, is in many 
 cases no crime, I have been astonished to read, 
 in some of our periodical publications, a cha- 
 racter of these people so different to what they 
 deserve. In a late philanthropic magazine, it 
 w^as truly laughable to peruse lines setting forth 
 their " mildness,'* " beneficence," " patience 
 under oppression," &c. &c. ; and with respect 
 to Mahometans, there are not a more dissolute 
 set of people in the universe, both men and wo- 
 men — the former being, almost without excep- 
 tion, treacherous and tyrannical ; the latter 
 cunning and deceitful, preserving towards their 
 superiors the outward appearance of respect, 
 while they are secretly planning to defraud him. 
 Thus the servant, who daily plunders your pro- 
 perty, never approaches but in an attitude of 
 submission, putting his hands together, and 
 touching his forehead with eyes cast on the 
 ground. Their women are adepts in blandish- 
 ments : instructed in them from their infancy, 
 they rival every other nation, possessing a ser- 
 vility withal that gives them unbounded influ- 
 ence over their European protectors, (infinitely 
 more, I am told, than the most accomplished fe- 
 male of his own nation can attain,) whose pockets 
 they fleece to support an indigent admirer, or
 
 94 
 
 itinerant /r/A-eer. I have known men who, al- 
 though in other respects sensible men, and of a 
 decisive character, to have been in the hands of 
 these women as clay in the hands of the potter, 
 perhaps even more easily moulded. I speak of 
 Mahometans, for Hindoo women never live with 
 any but their own caste, and are more respect- 
 able in every point of view. Their mode of life 
 differs little from that of the wives of labourers 
 and mechanics in Europe. They are not, like 
 the Mussulmans, confined to the zenanah, but 
 assist their husbands in his occupation, draw 
 water from the well for household purposes, and 
 dress his food ; while the others do nothing but 
 adorn their persons, study deception, and smoke 
 their hookahs. A man, by the Mahometan law, 
 is allowed four wives ; and he cannot imagine a 
 greater luxury than being stretched on a char- 
 piahy with a hookah in his mouth, listening to an 
 old fakeer who relates Persian stories, with one 
 or two of these women to fan and champoohinw. 
 
 Both Hindoo and Mussulman are equally fond 
 of money : they will quit the kindest master in 
 the world for a few additional rupees. I do not 
 mean to assert that this rule has no exceptions, 
 for I believe there may be many ; some, indeed, 
 have come within my own immediate observa- 
 tion — I speak only of the generality. I have 
 known Hindoo servants so attached to their 
 masters, as never to quit the bed-side when they
 
 95 
 
 have been ill, except to eat their necessary food ; 
 but such instances are very rare. 
 
 The occupations of servants in this country 
 are so distinct, that it is necessary to have some 
 of each religion in your establishment, and even 
 some of no caste at all ; for neither Mussulman 
 nor Hindoo will sv^eep the house. Kitchens 
 are always at a distance from the dwelling- 
 house, or bungalow, on account of the effluvia. 
 This prevents the master or mistress from at- 
 tending so much to the interior management of 
 it, as they perhaps otherwise would do ; a kha7i- 
 sommah therefore, or house steward, is considered 
 necessary, who takes complete charge of every 
 thing in this department, even to the hiring a 
 cook and helper. The khansommah is also answer- 
 able for all the plate, china, glass, and table- 
 linen, and has authority over all the Mussulman 
 servants. The person who fills this situation is 
 generally a man of respectability, and of some 
 property ; he gets much higher wages than any 
 of the others- — seldom less than thirty, some- 
 times fifty rupees a month. Two kismutdar^s are 
 the usual proportion to each gentleman or lady, 
 to wait on them at table, either at home or 
 abroad; and there is an established custom 
 amongst them, not to wait on any other person, 
 unless particularly ordered so to do. The dress 
 of all Mussulmen is made alike, the colour and 
 quality varying according to the taste or wealth
 
 96 
 
 of the wearer. White muslin, with plain-co- 
 loured turbans and waistbands, is the usual 
 dress of this description of people. They never 
 allow their wives to take service, unless driven 
 to it by necessity. 
 
 These gentlemen kismutdars being much too 
 fine to clean knives or plates, that service de- 
 volves on a masauljie, who also carries a lantern, 
 and fetches things from the bazar. This is the 
 most useful servant about the house ; for not 
 being of a high caste, he does many things that 
 the others would refuse : he never makes his 
 appearance within the bungalow, but when 
 called for. The kismutdars stand behind your 
 chair, and hand you every thing but liquids, 
 which being cooled in ice or saltpetre nine 
 months out of the twelve, is the business of the 
 abdar, or butler. The first appearance of the 
 kismutdars is with the breakfast, a pretty sub- 
 stantial meal, consisting of fish, boiled rice, hot 
 rolls, an omelette, chicken kooftas, (made like 
 forcemeat, and fried in small cakes, very nice 
 and dry,) boiled eggs, cold ham or tongue, 
 potted meats, orange marmalade, toasted bread, 
 a small loaf or two, butter in silver vases, (sur- 
 rounded with ice to keep it cool,) plenty of fruit, 
 and in the centre of the table either a silver bowl 
 filled with milk, or a glass vase with flowers. 
 The cofiee apparatus is placed at one end of the 
 table, served out by one of the k'mmitdai^s ; the 
 
 7
 
 97 
 
 tea-things at the other, by the khansomer. Urns 
 are not made use of, on account of their heatins: 
 the room ; (the tea-pot is taken outside to be 
 filled ;) neither are tea-boards ever seen in India. 
 After this, you see no more of the hismutdars un- 
 til one or two o'clock, unless they are called for, 
 when they bring in a meal called tiffin, which 
 may be explained by an early dinner, contain- 
 ing all the delicacies of the season. For this 
 meal invitations are seldom sent, but every body 
 is welcomed to it who happens to arrive at the 
 time. About three o'clock the party separate, 
 take each a book, and repose on couches until 
 sun-set. From two o'clock until six is consi- 
 dered the hottest part of the day, during which 
 the natives uniformly sleep. At six, it is cus- 
 tomary to dress and take a ride (or attend pa- 
 rade, if in the army) until dark, and then return 
 to dinner; after which, few people take any 
 thing more than a dish of tea or coffee. Sup- 
 pers are not general in India. 
 
 I must now speak of the rest of a gentleman's 
 establishment, viz. eight or ten (which is called 
 a set) bearers to carry his palankeen ; an /iir- 
 carah, or running footman, to go before it with 
 a spear ; a sirdar, or head bearer, and his as- 
 sistant, who also act as valets, clean the furni- 
 ture, make the beds, and take charge of the 
 linen. Under these are one or two tailors, (a 
 
 H
 
 ^8 
 
 dirjee,) who sit cross-legged in the vei^andah, and 
 some sweepers of the house. But I have not 
 yet mentioned the whole complement of ser- 
 vants necessary to form an establishment, as 
 most gentlemen have their own farm-yard, and 
 kill their own mutton. 
 
 A bhery -wallah is therefore necessary to take 
 care of the sheep and goats. 
 
 A moor gy -wallah for the poultry. 
 
 A soor-wallah for the pigs. 
 
 A gorry-wan for the bullocks. 
 
 A mahawat to take care of, and drive the ele- 
 phant. 
 
 A siir-wan for the camels. 
 
 A syce and grass-cutter to each horse. 
 
 A carpenter to repair fractures. 
 
 Two or three gardeners. 
 
 And a clashie to pitch tents, and flog them all 
 when necessary. 
 
 After these come the women servants, and 
 washerman's family. Where there are no chil- 
 dren, one ayah and her assistant are sufiicient ; 
 but it is usual for each child to have a separate 
 servant : and all that I have enumerated live 
 in huts on your premises, placed in some ob- 
 scure corner where they cannot be seen. The 
 grounds are generally extensive, and seldom 
 without inequalities, particularly on the banks 
 of the Ganges, so that they are easily con- 
 cealed.
 
 99 
 
 The idea one has of a tailor in England, by no 
 means answers the description of a d'ujee in 
 India. Tliey are, properly speaking, sempsters, 
 or as sempstress in the female, so sempster in the 
 male. They make up no gentlemen's clothes, 
 except they be of cotton ; but are exceedingly 
 expert in making ladies' dresses, especially from 
 a copy, which they imitate with the greatest 
 exactness. I once knew of a ridiculous circum- 
 stance that happened in this way. Gentlemen 
 in India, during the hot season, wear fine white 
 jackets, made of shirt cloth. One of these being 
 a little torn at the elbow, was given to the dirjee 
 to repair, and he put a small patch upon it : a 
 short time afterwards, the gentleman, to whom 
 it belonged, wished to have some new ones 
 made, and this being inadvertently given for a 
 pattern, all the new ones appeared with pre- 
 cisely the same patch on each elbow. 
 
 But to continue my journal. The road from 
 Futteh-poore to Kal'ian-poore is sandy, and parti- 
 cularly distressing to the eyes from being so 
 very white. The soil, indeed, seems every 
 where to be impregnated with alkali. The salt- 
 petre produced in this country is a source of 
 great wealth to the Honourable the East India 
 Company. The road from Kcdlan-poore to the 
 village o{ Sersoivl is as bad as a road can be. 
 
 Scarcely were the torches illumined, (about 
 an hour after we started,) than one of the springs 
 
 H 2
 
 100 
 
 of our carriage gave way : ray charioteer how- 
 ever contrived, by means of a pocket handker- 
 chief and a piece of rope, (we found in the seat,) 
 to fasten the two parts together. With this con- 
 trivance we were getting on tolerably well, every 
 moment flattering ourselves that the road might 
 mend, or, at all events, hoping that it would 
 carry us on to the next village, where we could 
 get it properly repaired ; when, what should 
 appear but a rapid stream, with a steep bank on 
 either side. I confess I viewed it in absolute 
 dismay. Our carriage now so unsafe, all other 
 conveyances far behind, and with no other light 
 than torches, it was really an appalling sight ; 
 but necessity, we are told, has no law ; so down 
 we went, splashed through the water after our 
 sable guides, and happily reached the opposite 
 shore without a ducking. The next evening- 
 brought us to Khanpore, having in three months 
 safely completed a journey of eight hundred 
 miles in the same open carriage, and a most de- 
 lightful journey it was. Our cattle and servants, 
 as may be supposed, required a little rest, which 
 determined us to remain a few days in this can- 
 tonment. It is the principal dep6t for the Ben- 
 gal army, containing seldom less than ten thou- 
 sand troops, including a regiment of His Ma- 
 jesty's Light Dragoons, and one or two of 
 infantry, besides the Company's artillery, with 
 Seapoy corps, both cavalry and infantry, of-
 
 101 
 
 ficered by European gentlemen. It is likewise 
 the head-quarters of the army, the Commander- 
 in-Chief residing there. An invitation to a din- 
 ner, ball, and supper, at the Judges, was the 
 consequence of this delay — we sat down, a hun- 
 dred and ten persons, at table. A friend of ours, 
 who at this time commanded the troops at Luck- 
 now, being anxious to see us before we pro- 
 ceeded to the frontier, as we were now within a 
 night's run (fifty miles) of Lucknow, we availed 
 ourselves of the opportunity ; and as the most 
 expeditious mode of reaching it, proposed tra- 
 velling by dak, that is, in palankeens, with re- 
 lays of bearers every ten miles. No sooner did 
 the Nawaab Sadnt Alii hear of our intention, than, 
 with that attention to British subjects for which 
 he was justly famed, he sent his own post cha- 
 riot and four to meet us. I cannot say that we 
 were perfect strangers, having on a former occa- 
 sion spent a month in one of his palaces. 
 
 The city of Lucknow, excepting the Nawaab'^ 
 palaces, is neither so large nor so splendid in 
 appearance as that of Benares ; his premises are 
 of course superb, and his stud exceeded both in 
 quality and number that of any other potentate. 
 His table, to which all the English of any rank 
 were welcome, had in every respect the appear- 
 ance of a nobleman's in England ; and no noble- 
 man of any country could possess greater sua- 
 vity of manners, or more genuine politeness. At
 
 102 
 
 the time I am speaking of, he was about fifty 
 years of age; his figure tall, athletic, and com- 
 manding, with features expressive, and rather 
 handsome ; his complexion by no means dark 
 for a native, and his eyes a fine hazel. On his 
 table were always three distinct dinners — one at 
 the upper end, by an English cook ; at the lower 
 end, by a French cook ; and in the centre, (where 
 he always sat,) by a Hindostanee cook. Hog- 
 meat, wine, and turkeys, being forbidden by 
 the prophet Mahomet, he allowed himself the 
 latitude of selecting substitutes ; accordingly, a 
 bottle of cherry brandy was placed on the table 
 by him, from which he pledged his European 
 guests, and called it English syrup ; while the 
 hams on his table (which all came from Eng- 
 land) he called English venison, and therefore 
 ate with impunity. He was certainly not a 
 Mussulman at heart ; for I have frequently heard 
 him ridicule their prejudices. He passed his 
 early years in Calcutta, chiefly in English so- 
 ciety, and had unconsciously imbibed many Eng- 
 lish ideas. He is styled the Grand Vizier, and 
 was placed by our Government upon the throne, 
 to which by birth he was entitled, but by usurpa- 
 tion he had nearly lost. He travelled to Luck- 
 now as an English gentleman, incog, in a palan- 
 keen, and just got within the city gates in time 
 to prevent them from being closed against him. 
 He was a staunch ally to the British Govern-
 
 103 
 
 ment ; of which he gave convincing proof when 
 the army under General Lord Lake was pre- 
 paring to take the field against the Mahrattas. 
 Being in want of carriage cattle, he voluntarily- 
 furnished six hundred camels, five hundred 
 horses as an addition to the dragoon regiments, 
 a hundred and fifty elephants, and a thousand 
 bullocks, besides baggage-waggons innume- 
 rable. In the second campaign also, when the 
 officers and men were seven months' pay in ar- 
 rears, he advanced Government twelve lacs of 
 rupees, for eighteen months, without any inte- 
 rest. No man could have behaved more hand- 
 somely, and very few would have been half so 
 liberal. He understood the English language 
 perfectly, and wrote it correctly, but could not 
 pronounce the words. Knowing my predilec- 
 tion for poetry, he presented me with the fol- 
 following specimen, in manuscript, written by 
 
 Lebitt Ben Rabial, 
 
 Alamary, 
 
 A Native of Yemen, and contemporary 
 
 with Mahomet. 
 
 " On the Return of a Person, after a long Absence, to a Place 
 where he had spent his earliest Years. 
 
 *' Those dear abodes that once contained the fair, 
 Amidst Mitatus' wilds I seek in vain ; 
 Nor towns, nor tents, nor cottages are there, 
 But scattered ruins, and a silent plain.
 
 104 
 
 The proud canals that once Kayana graced, 
 Their course neglected, and their waters gone, 
 
 Among the levelled sands are dimly traced, 
 
 Like moss-grown letters on a mouldering stonCr 
 
 Kayana, say, how many a tedious year 
 
 Its hallowed circle o'er our heads hath rolled, 
 
 Since to my vows thy tender maids gave ear. 
 And fondly listened to the tale I told ? 
 
 How oft since then, the star of spring, that pours 
 A never-failing stream, hath drenched^y head ; 
 
 How oft, the summer's cloud, in copious showers, 
 Or gentle drops, its genial influence shed ? 
 
 How oft since then, the hovering mist of morn 
 
 Hath caused thy looks with glittering gems to glow ; 
 
 How oft hath eve her dewy treasures borne, 
 To fall responsive to the breeze below ! 
 
 The matted thistles, bending to the gale, 
 
 Now clothe those meadows, once with verdure gay. 
 
 Amidst the windings of that lonely vale, 
 The teeming antelope and ostrich stray. 
 
 The large-eyed mother of the herd, that flies 
 Man's noisy haunts, here finds a sure retreat, 
 
 Here tends her clustering young, till age supplies 
 Strength to their limbs, and swiftness to their feet. 
 
 Save where the swelling stream hath swept those walls, 
 And given their deep foundations to the light, 
 
 As the re-touching pencil that recalls 
 
 A long-lost picture to the raptured sight. 
 
 Save where the rains have washed the gathered sand, 
 And bared the scanty fragments to our view. 
 
 As the dust sprinkled on a punctured hand, 
 Pids the faint tints resume their azure hue.
 
 105 
 
 No mossy record of those once loved seats, 
 Points out the mansion to enquiring eyes ; 
 
 No tottering wall in echoing sounds repeats 
 
 Our mournful questions, and our bursting sighs. 
 
 Yet midst those ruined heaps, that naked plain, 
 Can faithful memory former scenes restore, 
 
 Recall the busy throng, the jocund train, 
 
 And picture all that charmed us there before. 
 
 Nor shall my heart the fatal morn forget. 
 
 That bore thy maidens from these seats so dear. 
 
 I see, I see the crowding litters yet. 
 
 And yet the tent poles rattle in my ear ; 
 
 I see thy nymphs with timid steps ascend, 
 
 The streamers wave in all their painted pride. 
 
 The folding curtains every fold extend *, 
 And vainly strive the charms within to hide. 
 
 What graceful forms those envious folds enclose ! 
 
 What melting glances through those curtains play ! 
 Sure Weiras' antelopes, or Judah's roes, 
 
 Through yonder veils their sportive young survey ! 
 
 The band moved on — to trace their steps I strove ; 
 
 I saw them urge the camel's hastening flight, 
 Till the white vapour, like a rising grove. 
 
 Snatched them for ever from my aching sight. 
 
 Nor since that morn have I Nawarra seen ; 
 
 The bands are burst that held us once so fast ; 
 Memory but tells me that such things have been, 
 
 And sad reflection adds, that they are past." 
 
 The original of this was beautifully written in 
 Persian, not as we write with a pen, but with a 
 
 * Those carriages that contain women are always surrounded 
 by curtains.
 
 106 
 
 sort of straight smooth reed, about the same 
 size, similarly cut, and admirably adapted for 
 the purpose. The Persians always commence 
 an epistle by an Aliph, (the first letter in the Al- 
 phabet,) in order to signify the beginning ; and 
 write from the right hand to the left, or, as we 
 should call it, backwards. They fold the paper 
 narrow, and placing it on the palm of their hand, 
 write with great facility. 
 
 A still more curious specimen of eastern 
 phraseology than this, was sent to me once by 
 a native gentleman, who had promised during 
 my absence to visit my little boy, then a baby. 
 It ran as follows : — 
 
 " To the Begum of exalted rank, source of radiance 
 
 and dignity, may her good fortunes be perpetual ! ! 
 
 " After representing to the Presence illumining the world, 
 that our fervent wishes for the honour of kissing the footsteps 
 of her who is the ornament of the Sultanas of the East, are 
 constant and never-ceasing ; her slave begs to make known to 
 the Illustrious Perception, that he this morning, when about 
 two watches of the day were passed, agreeable to the com- 
 mands resembling fate, presented himself at the threshold of 
 the Doulet Khannah," (Palace of Riches,) " now darkened by 
 the absence of its brightest luminary; and having made known 
 his desire, was admitted to the honour of beholding the radiant 
 countenance of the infant, resembhng in beauty the moon of 
 fourteen days, when with inexpressible joy he perceived that 
 the rose-bud, (in whose presence the flowers of the garden 
 blush,) fanned by the zephyrs of health, was expanding with a • 
 grace far beyond his feeble powers of description. Having 
 made the most minute enquiries respecting all matters fitting 
 for him to be informed of, your slave learned that the infant,
 
 107 
 
 and the two cypress-sliaped damsels attendant on the threshold, 
 pass their days in uninterrupted tranquillity. The fawn-eyed 
 nymph *, whose beaming beauty fills with envy the splendid em- 
 press of the night ; whose voice makes the plaintive bird of a 
 thousand notes" (nightingale) *' hang his head in despair ; she 
 whose fragrant looks cause to dissolve in sorrow the less odo- 
 riferous amber ; with a grace which would have covered with 
 blushes the lovely Leila, and made more frantic the enamoured 
 Mujnoon, begged her humble assvu'ance of eternal obedience. 
 
 " Thus much it was fitting this slave should represent ; — 
 what further trouble shall he presume to give ? 
 
 " May the sun of felicity and wealth be ever luminous +." 
 
 While we were at Lucknow, a quantity of 
 Worcestershire china arrived, that had been 
 sent to the Nawaab from England. He was as 
 impatient to open it, as a child would be with 
 a new plaything ; and immediately gave orders 
 for invitations to be sent to the whole settle- 
 ment for a breakfast, a lafourchctte, next morn- 
 ing. Tables were accordingly spread for up- 
 wards of a hundred persons, including his mi- 
 nisters and officers of state. Nothing could be 
 more splendid than the general appearance of 
 this entertainment ; but our dismay may be 
 more easily imagined than described, on dis- 
 covering that his servants had mistaken cer- 
 tain utensils for milk bowls, and had actually 
 placed about twenty of them, filled with that 
 beverage, along the centre of the table. The 
 
 * The fawn-eyed nymph was the chief nurse. 
 + The above is a literal translation.
 
 108 
 
 consequence was, the English part of the com- 
 pany declined taking any ; upon which the 
 Nawaab innocently remarked, ** I thought that 
 the English were fond of milk." Some of them 
 had much difficulty to keep their countenances. 
 I cannot say that I regretted leaving this 
 noisy city ; for being just at the new moon, the 
 natives had began, as is their custom, when 
 not restrained by martial law, to blow horns 
 about the streets, fire muskets, pistols, let off 
 fire-works, &c. which was formerly the practice 
 of the Jews on any festival or subject of rejoic- 
 ing. In this country, the moment they per- 
 ceive the new moon, all prostrate themselves 
 on the earth, and offer up a prayer of thanks- 
 giving ; after which the uproar commences. In 
 a military cantonment they are somewhat 
 checked by watch setting, and patrol es to keep 
 the peace ; here they are encouraged in it, and 
 make a tremendous noise, both when the moon 
 is new, and also when at the full. On either of 
 these occurrences, the Mahometan as well as 
 Hindoo religion enjoins their followers to bathe ; 
 and I have known some religious persons plunge 
 breast high in the Ganges at twelve o'clock at 
 at night, even in the coldest weather. After 
 remaining a few moments in prayer, just at the 
 instant the moon is supposed to be at the full, 
 they make an offering of rice and flowers, which 
 are gently placed upon the water, and float
 
 109 
 
 down the stream. It is a pretty sight to see 
 these wreaths floating down at the rate of six 
 miles an hour, with a number of small lamps 
 attached to them. 
 
 It is not from seeing much, but in reflecting 
 on what we do see, that we gather instruction 
 and amusement for our declining years.
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 From Lucknow, instead of returning to Khan- 
 pore, we proceeded across the country to Fut- 
 ty-ghur, where our camp equipage was or- 
 dered to meet us. It is the residence of the 
 Commissioners for the ceded, conquered, and 
 centre provinces, and is termed a Sadder Sta- 
 tion, from containing a complete establishment 
 of the Honourable the East India Company's 
 civil servants, with only one regiment of Sea- 
 poys, a company of artillery, and the Com- 
 missioners' body-guard. It stands on the bank 
 of the Ganges, about three miles from the large 
 city of Furriikabad, which is inhabited only by 
 natives, and is a great mart for trade. Fur- 
 rukabad is one of the best places in India to pur- 
 chase Cashmere shawls, and a fine description 
 of cloth for neckcloths, called chandelly, which 
 is brought from the Mahratta country, and is 
 like Scotch cambric, only infinitely finer and 
 more soft. The natives here, work well in gold 
 or silver, and are ingenious mechanics. The 
 principal part of the inhabitants at Furrukahad 
 are Mussulmen. The Nawaab, bearing the title 
 of the city, resides within it. 
 
 Having devoted a few days to our friends at
 
 Ill 
 
 Futty-ghur, and despatched our tent equipage, 
 on the evening of the 26th of June we were pre- 
 paring to follow them in palankeens, when the 
 clouds gathering portended an approaching 
 storm, and we were much importuned to defer 
 our intended journey until the morrow. I can- 
 not say but that I felt well disposed to ac- 
 quiesce ; but my companion, who was the far- 
 thest in the world from being either self-willed 
 or obstinate, appeared so bent upon starting that 
 evening, that I could no longer oppose it ; and 
 the event proved him to be right. 
 
 Alas ! the family we quitted, little thought 
 that, ere the morning dawned, they should not 
 have a roof to shelter them. Weak-sighted mor- 
 tals as we are, we know not what an hour may 
 bring forth ! We saw the conflagration ; and had 
 I not yielded mine to better judgment, should 
 all have perished in it. Scarcely were we out 
 of the cantonment, before our friend's house was 
 struck by lightning ; and so rapid were the 
 flames, that in a few hours it was level with the 
 ground. The table, round which we had all 
 been sitting, was the first thing shivered to 
 pieces. Fortunately the family, who had at- 
 tended us to our palankeens, did not return to 
 that apartment; and, happily, no lives were 
 lost. 
 
 About this time is generally the commence- 
 ment of the rainy season, when storms of this
 
 112 
 
 description are prevalent, often violent, but of 
 short duration. The country between Futty- 
 ghur and Agra is tolerably w^ell cultivated, 
 abounds in groves of fine mango and tamarind 
 trees, and is plentifully supplied with well- 
 water. From Futty-ghur to Mynpoorie we went 
 in one night, and there found our tents. It is 
 a beautiful spot, surrounded by groves of va- 
 rious description, some of them impervious to 
 the sun's rays ; and the country, far as the eye 
 could reach, teeming with cultivation. The 
 next morning's trip we made on an elephant; 
 a heavy storm of rain that had fallen during the 
 night so inundated the country, (which here lies 
 flat for many miles,) that the only means of dis- 
 covering the road was by observing where the 
 water lay the deepest, so that we seemed to be 
 passing along a canal. Our way for many miles 
 of the journey lay across an extensive plain, 
 which now presented one vast sheet of water, 
 without even shrub or tree to relieve the eye. 
 It occurred to my mind, that the spectacle 
 Noah must have witnessed when he took refuge 
 in the ark, was not much unlike it. Thus we 
 travelled slowly on, the next fourteen miles, to 
 Shekoabad, where our people had found a high 
 dry spot to pitch the tents ; and we were very 
 comfortable, for the rain, as is frequently the 
 case at this season, had been partial ; not half 
 so much had fallen 7/f re, as w^e had had. After
 
 113 
 
 these storms, the sun seems to acquire addi- 
 tional power : so great was the heat to-day, 
 that one of our camels died upon the road. 
 
 Before Agt-a came into possession of the Eng- 
 lish, Shekoabad was a frontier station, occupied 
 only by a regiment of Seapoys, and two or three 
 troops of native cavalry. These troops being 
 suddenly called away on duty, the station was 
 attacked and plundered by a party of Mahratta 
 horse, or probably Pindarees, who put all the 
 males (a few invalid soldiers) t© death, and cap- 
 tured all the females. Amongst the latter was 
 the wife of an officer, and her two children: 
 one of these, being an infant, they inhumanly 
 massacred ; the other was about six years of 
 age, and having gold ear-rings on, the barba- 
 rians literally tore them from her ears, and plac- 
 ing her behind one of them, while the distracted 
 mother was guarded by another, they were 
 conveyed to a fort in the Mahratta country, and 
 there confined until an exorbitant ransom could 
 be raised to liberate them. 
 
 These Pindarees are a race of wandering ma- 
 rauders, who, from a small banditti, have in- 
 creased within the last few years to a consi- 
 derable military force. Incapable of entering 
 into bands of amity with any settled state, they 
 supported themselves by plunder, and were in 
 the habit of exercising the most atrocious cruel- 
 ties, sparing neither sex nor age, and destroying
 
 114 
 
 what they were unable to carry away. Thus 
 they came suddenly upon the peaceful cultiva- 
 tors of the soil, while their numbers and warlike 
 accoutrements rendered them altogether irre- 
 sistible. Having by this means acquired large 
 territorial possessions, always on the alert, they 
 were prepared to assist any native power who 
 might think proper to employ them. Indeed it 
 is a well-known fact, that the armies of Scindia 
 and Holkar were of this description. Embol- 
 dened by success, they at length openly at- 
 tacked the villages which the English had taken 
 under their protection. Our late successful 
 operations, under the command of the Marquis 
 of Hastings, have overthrown, if not totally an- 
 nihilated, this formidable enemy ; and since the 
 war of 1818, the river Indus has become our 
 frontier, while security and comfort have suc- 
 ceeded to the terror and misery formerly the lot 
 of the inhabitants of these regions. Multitudes 
 have already emerged from the hills, into which 
 necessity had driven them, and now re-occupy 
 their native villages. The ploughshare is again 
 employed to turn a soil which for many seasons 
 has lain undisturbed, save by the hoofs of pre- 
 datory cavalry. Such exertions on the part of 
 the British Government in India have immor- 
 talized us as a nation ; I wish I could add, 
 without any individual sufferings ; but, alas ! 
 although successful as to the main object, we
 
 115 
 
 have to lament the loss of many a brave soldier, 
 not so much from the actual chances of war, as 
 from harassing- and fatiguing marches in an un- 
 healthy country. I am assured by an eye witness 
 of the dreadful scene, that in one day's march of 
 fourteen miles, out of eighteen thousand souls, 
 which the camp was estimated to contain, be- 
 tween seven and eight thousand were left dead 
 upon the road. The same correspondent adds, 
 ^' The number of native servants and camp fol- 
 lowers who lost their lives upon this occasion 
 is incalculable. None of us," he continues, 
 *' had above one or two servants out of twenty, 
 who were able to exert themselves ; and so sud- 
 denly were they attacked, that no man could 
 flatter himself he might not be a corpse before 
 the next hour." Several young men in the troop 
 he commanded, singing and joking as they rode 
 along, apparently in excellent health, would 
 request permission to fall out of the ranks ; 
 they were so ill that they could not sit upon 
 their horses; when, throwing themselves upon 
 the ground, they were dead before the column 
 had all passed. We have however the consola- 
 tion of reflecting, that the war was not provoked 
 by motives of ambition, or a desire of accumu- 
 lating wealth, but entered into actually in self- 
 defence. 
 
 Although in viewing the vast extent of terri- 
 tory over which our conquests have been spread, 
 
 I 2
 
 116 
 
 and considering that in less than a century (from 
 a small factory on the coast) we have become 
 sovereigns of a mighty empire ; that the popula- 
 tion of India is not less than 100,000,000, and 
 spread over a continent of more than 1,000,000 
 square miles ; that the dominion of this kingdom 
 extends over more than one third of this ex- 
 tent, and over nearly two-fifths of that popula- 
 lation ; it may perhaps be said that we have in- 
 creased our possessions by gradual encroach- 
 ments to what they now are. I can only state, 
 from unquestionable authority, that the war of 
 1818 was not of this description. 
 
 The Pindarees, at the commencement of it, 
 consisted of from 30,000 to 40,000 regular and 
 irregular horse, receiving continual re-inforce- 
 ments, and, from want of organization, incapa- 
 ble of being attacked by disciplined troops. 
 They were a collection from the remnant of 
 former wars ; the refuse of disbanded armies ; 
 the rallying standard of all discontented, un- 
 tractable spirits, of the restless and ambitious ; 
 rapid and decisive in their movements, they were 
 generally successful in escaping pursuit, and 
 only to be defeated when surprised. They pro- 
 voked the war by a series of outrages, such as no 
 government could hear of and not resent. In 
 1812 they made an irruption into Bengal, plun- 
 dering villages, and carrying away the peaceful 
 inhabitants into slavery; in 1813, into Bombay;
 
 117 
 
 in 1816, accompanied by circumstances of un- 
 paralleled atrocity, into Madras, at which pe- 
 riod instances occurred where a whole female 
 population precipitated themselves into wells to 
 escape falling into their hands, while fathers 
 and husbands buried themselves in the flaming: 
 ruins of their miserable dwellings. Scindia, 
 Holkar, and Ameer Khan, took this opportu- 
 nity of entering the lists against us ; but for a 
 considerable time we had no reason to expect 
 hostility from the Peishwa, a power so impor- 
 tant, that all others sunk as nothing in the com- 
 parison. An attack of Holkar on our troops was 
 the signal for general action, the result of which 
 proved the complete defeat of our enemies. Hol- 
 kar was soon obliged to surrender all the terri- 
 tory he possessed south of Santa-poora ; and the 
 campaign was carrying on most successfully, 
 when the Peishwa, long a treacherous friend, 
 now became an open enemy, and stood the ac- 
 knowledged head of the Mahratta powers. From 
 that moment our arms were of necessity directed 
 against him — he was driven from his capital, 
 and finally reduced from the " exile of a wan- 
 derer, to the bondage of a captive." He is now 
 in confinement at Benares. The Rajah of Nag- 
 po7X, with whom we had signed a treaty of peace 
 in 1813, also turned traitor, although indebted 
 to us for his throne. He was repelled with si- 
 milar courage and success.
 
 118 
 
 Our army at this time consisted of 90,000 
 men — of these 10,000 only were English; and 
 although the native troops found many of their 
 relatives, and much of their property in the 
 neighbouring territory of the Peishwa, such was 
 their fidelity to their employers, that, defying 
 his threats, they carried frequent proofs to their 
 European officers of his attempts to corrupt their 
 loyalty. 
 
 In the whole twenty-eight actions that were 
 fought, the superior management of the British 
 arms was conspicuous ; and between the months 
 of November and June, twenty forts (some of 
 them deemed impregnable) were taken and dis- 
 mantled. The frontier that then remained to be 
 defended by the British force, extended nearly 
 two thousand five hundred miles. One of these 
 reputed impregnable forts was Huttrass, near 
 AgrUy in possession of a Jaut chief named Diah 
 Ram, a Hindoo prince of ancient family. 
 
 The Jauts are, properly speaking, cultivators 
 of the soil, but have long been famed for their 
 warlike achievements. Their origin has been 
 variously represented : some believe them to 
 have been Rajpoots, a race of people whose only 
 occupation was war ; and from turning agricul- 
 turists, that they lost the name of Rajpoot, and 
 were afterwards known by the name of Jauts. 
 However this may be, it cannot be denied that 
 they are the most skilful husbandmen in Hin-
 
 119 
 
 dostan, invariably quit the plough at the call of 
 danger, and prove, if they ever did belong to 
 the sect of Rajpoots, that they are not degene- 
 rated. The character of the Rajpoots for he- 
 roism in former times, when the distinction of 
 caste was much more religiously observed than 
 it is at present, is well known. 
 
 Diah Ram was related to the Rajah of Buj^t- 
 pore, and was secretly in alliance with other 
 states who were hostile to the British Govern- 
 ment. He gained his territory by conquest, 
 but was afterwards deprived of it by the Mah- 
 rattas, and re-instated by the British Govern- 
 ment. 
 
 Previous to our going to war with the Mah- 
 rattas, this Rajah entered into a treaty offensive 
 and defensive with us, which he afterwards 
 broke by assisting Holkar^ a Mahratta chief. 
 On the subjection of the latter, a fresh treaty 
 was made with him, wherein it was stipulated 
 that he should pay ninety thousand rupees into 
 our treasury, adopt our system of police, dis- 
 band his troops, and cease to coin money. This 
 treaty was no sooner signed than broken. He 
 continued the coinage, was irregular in the pay- 
 ment of his tribute, strengthened his fort, which 
 became the receptacle of all the disaffected, 
 and, to crown his perfidy, when four of our po- 
 lice officers, had been murdered in his district.
 
 120 
 
 he gave shelter to the perpetrators, and refused 
 to give them up to justice. 
 
 At the time our troops attacked his fort at 
 Huttrass, it was defended by five hundred pieces 
 of artillery, with an outer fort, in which were 
 twenty immense bastions, surrounded by a ditch 
 ninety feet broad, seventy-five feet deep, and 
 containing six feet of water. 
 
 The town is a rectangular work, about seven 
 hundred and fifty yards from the fort. In form, 
 it is nearly square, five hundred by four hundred 
 and eighty yards, with nine circular bastions^ 
 and a pretty deep ditch. 
 
 The attack was made upon the fort at half- 
 past eleven o'clock at night, March 2, 1817. 
 On the preceding evening all our batteries were 
 advanced within a hundred yards of the glacis, 
 and by sun-rise next morning we had forty-three 
 pieces of heavy cannon ready to bear upon it. 
 The general who commanded, gave the Rajah 
 until nine o'clock, to decide whether he would 
 stand a siege or surrender. He chose the former. 
 Accordingly, at the hour appointed, all our 
 batteries opened, and kept up an incessant 
 firing until five o'clock the next evening; at 
 which time one of the shells fell upon his prin- 
 cipal magazine, containing six thousand maunds * 
 
 * A maund is eighty pounds weight.
 
 121 
 
 of gunpowder, and caused a terrible explosion. 
 It was the most awful and beautiful scene 
 that could be imagined. The earth trembled as 
 if shaken by an earthquake. This was imme- 
 diately followed by a stunning crash, which 
 even deadened the sound of our batteries. The 
 fort was instantly enveloped in a thick black 
 cloud, which gradually rose in the form of a 
 regular and beautiful tree, growing rapidly yet 
 majestically out of the ground, at the same time 
 preserving its exact proportions. 
 
 The panic caused by this occurrence it is im- 
 possible to describe, each party supposing that 
 the other had sprung a mine— all was, for a mo- 
 ment, silent horror and breathless expectation ! 
 The firing, which had been kept up without 
 intermission for eight hours, ceased as if by ma- 
 gic. Every one seemed transfixed to the spot, 
 too much astonished to speak; for, lo ! they 
 were in total darkness! which continued for 
 more than eleven minutes. This so sudden 
 change, from a fine clear sky, with the sun 
 shining forth in all his splendour, to impenetra- 
 ble darkness, was sufiicient to strike the firmest 
 mind with dread. The darkness subsided by 
 degrees, and our people soon discovered what 
 had been the cause; upon which our batteries 
 again opened with redoubled vigour, the RajaKs 
 answering them feebly, and only now and then, 
 from which it appeared evident that there was
 
 122 
 
 much confusion within the fort. We kept it up, 
 however, until eleven o'clock, when the Rajah, 
 being fairly burnt out, contrived with two hun- 
 dred of his best horsemen to effect his escape. 
 They were all^ as we afterwards learned, him- 
 self not excepted, clad in chain armour. The 
 destruction occasioned by the explosion of the 
 magazine in the fort was dreadful ; scarcely a 
 man or animal within but was wounded by it, 
 and the greater part of the buildings were laid 
 in ruins. The Rajah and his party made a dart 
 through a picquet of the 8th Dragoons, and a 
 regiment of RohUlah horsemen, whose swords 
 made no impression. During the night there 
 had been just sufficient moonlight to distinguish 
 the fort, over which our shells were seen to 
 mount in air, then rolling over each other like 
 so many balls of fire, eight or nine at a time, 
 they sank majestically down. It was afterw'^ards 
 understood that Diah Ram had taken refuge 
 with the Burtpore Rajah, another Jaut chief, to 
 whom he was nearly related. The unfortunate 
 failure of our troops in their several attacks on 
 this Rajah of Biu^tpore doubtless inspired others 
 with courage to oppose us, and perhaps in some 
 measure caused that obstinate resistance which 
 we every where met with. 
 
 The Rajah of Burtpore, although very old, 
 was a most formidable enemy. He is since 
 dead. The Jauts have repeatedly revolted
 
 123 
 
 against the Mogul government, the seat of 
 which is Delhi; and although the whole force 
 of the empire has at times been turned against 
 them, they have so bravely defended their 
 strong holds, that they have always been al- 
 lowed to capitulate on the most favourable 
 terms. 
 
 Within the last century, taking advantage of 
 the anarchy which at length overthrew the throne 
 of Delhi *, they issued forth in great force, sub- 
 dued the province of Agra, where they demo- 
 lished all the magnificent structures which the 
 Mussulmen, with great taste, and at an enor- 
 mous expense, had erected, and carried away 
 plunder to an immense amount. The ceil- 
 ings of the royal residence were at that time 
 covered with sheets of pure gold, or of the 
 finest silver curiously embossed. These all 
 became the spoil of the conquering Jauts. The 
 Tadge alone (that wonderful and most elegant 
 production of art) escaped destruction ; but the 
 
 * Leaving only the shadow of royalty in the person of an 
 old blind king, named SJiarv Allum, whose eyes were put out by 
 one of his subjects, who was the head of a faction. He was 
 re-instated on the throne by General Lord Lake, about the end 
 of the year 1803, and died at an advanced age, being suc- 
 ceeded by his son the present Emperor. These Sovereigns, 
 from having ruled the whole of the Mogul Empire with de- 
 spotic sway, are now reduced to the government of a single 
 province.
 
 124 
 
 chandelier which was suspended from the prin- 
 cipal dome, by ingots of silver, was soon de- 
 prived of its elevated situation. Many of the 
 precious stones that were inlaid in the marble 
 fret-work were rudely torn out, and much of 
 the alabaster screen was mutilated. But their 
 fury chiefly turned against the tomb of the Em- 
 peror Acbar, which is situated at a place called 
 Secimdra, about five miles from Agra. It stands 
 within a square enclosed by four brick walls, ex- 
 tending half a mile on either side : these walls 
 are thirty feet high and eight feet thick. Within 
 this enclosure was formerly a garden, planted 
 in avenges of trees, principally orange, lemon, 
 and citron trees, which flourish well in this dis- 
 trict. In the centre of this garden stands the 
 tomb, on a platform of stone, to which you as- 
 cend by many steps. A colonnade of arches, 
 five and twenty feet high, and thirty deep, en- 
 close the building. The interior, which contains 
 the cenotaph, is entirely of white marble, beau- 
 tifully inlaid, and was formerly richly orna- 
 mented. Many inscriptions of the Koraan still 
 remain, although many more have been defaced. 
 The four gateways, East, West, North, and 
 South, composed of red granite, and white mar- 
 ble, with sentences of the Koraan engraven on 
 them, are very magnificent; and the minarets, 
 which are immensely high, are faced with white 
 marble. But it is impossible to do justice to
 
 125 
 
 these superb buildings by description — it is ne- 
 cessary to see them, in order to form a just es- 
 timate of their peculiar beauty and magnificence. 
 
 From Agra and its vicinity, flushed with con- 
 quest, the emboldened Jauts pushed on through 
 the adjoining district oi Ally Ghui\ in which are 
 the three strong forts now belonging to Bhag- 
 waut Singh, D'lah Ram, &c. In that of Ally 
 GhiiTy near the city of Coel, they placed a for- 
 midable garrison : it afterwards stood a siege, 
 and fell before British valour. This fort was 
 taken, after an obstinate resistance, by the 
 army commanded by General Lord Lake in per- 
 son, August 1804. Notorious for their rapacity 
 and 'tyrannical dispositions, it is not to be won- 
 dered at, that wherever they go, the Jauts are 
 both dreaded- and detested, or that the former 
 defenceless inhabitants should feel the utmost 
 joy whenever released from their state of bond- 
 age, to feel the influence of British lenity and 
 justice. 
 
 The Jauts are brave soldiers and good culti- 
 vators ; but in order to make good subjects, they 
 must be divested of all power. 
 
 I have been led by this subject to an uncon- 
 scionable distance, and will therefore return 
 with all speed to Shekoahad, from whence the 
 digression took place.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Ferozabad, the next place we came to, is a large 
 town, under the direction of a Teseelda?^ or 
 native collector of revenue, and an establish- 
 ment of Police. We found the former quite a 
 polished gentleman, who having spent great 
 part of his life in Calcutta among Europeans, 
 had adopted, as nearly as was consistent with 
 the Mahometan religion, their manners and mode 
 of living. He not only waited upon us, as is 
 customary, upon our arrival, but sent fruitj ve- 
 getables, and two excellent dishes of curry. 
 What makes this dish so much better here than 
 in England, is a soft and slightly acidulated 
 curd they put into it, called dhi/e, which gives 
 it a beautiful bright colour and piquant flavour. 
 A few slices of unripe mango is also a great im- 
 provement. 
 
 From Ferozabad, in consequence of no rain 
 having fallen there, the immense plain we had 
 to cross bore the appearance of a complete sandy 
 desert, on which we were in some danger of 
 being smothered ; for a high wind blew the 
 sand directly in our faces. Nothing could be 
 more uncomfortable ; even the horses betrayed 
 symptoms of unwillingness to brave it. The
 
 127 
 
 heat on this day's march was so excessive, that 
 the gig horse, who drew us the last ten miles, 
 was no sooner unharnessed than he dropped 
 down and expired. 
 
 At Ettamaadpore, to which place we proceeded 
 the next day, we met the collector of the dis- 
 trict, who happened to be there in tents, and 
 spent the day with him. 
 
 From this place to Agra, (ten miles only,) it 
 beinsf considered unsafe to travel without a 
 guard, we were escorted by four of the col- 
 lector's armed horsemen ; but when we arrived 
 on the bank of the Jumna, and were preparing 
 to cross the ferry to Agra, we met some friends 
 coming to pass the day at a garden house near 
 at hand, and they prevailed on us to join the 
 party. It was built by a man named Ettamaad 
 Dowlut, meaning Ettamaad the Rich*, and is 
 now under the care of the judge of the district. 
 His burial place, or tomb, denominated also a 
 mausoleum, with that of his wife, stands in the 
 centre of the garden. The walls and pavement, 
 of white marble, are elegantly inlaid with cor- 
 nelian of different colours, porphyry, granite, 
 &c. It is a square building, terminating in a 
 dome, curiously and beautifully painted with 
 flowers, and Mosaic. It stands on an elevated 
 platform of white marble, having at each corner 
 
 * For the history of this native, which is somewhat singular, 
 see " Dow's History of Hindostan."
 
 12-8 
 
 a lofty minaret of the same materials. The 
 whole is surrounded by a marble railing. Un- 
 der the dome, and immediately over the bodies, 
 are two blocks of highly polished yellow mar- 
 ble, beautifully carved ; and round both is an 
 elegant net-work of white marble, inlaid with 
 stones of different colours. This man could 
 boast of no pedigree, and not having any imme- 
 diate successor, his estates became the property 
 of the existing government, and ours, eventually, 
 by right of conquest. In this country the Great 
 Mogul, or, as he is now termed. Emperor of 
 Delhi, is the nominal proprietor of all the landed 
 property, and takes upon himself to dispose of 
 it to whom he pleases. Those who hold lands 
 under his government are obliged, at their de- 
 cease, to bequeath the property to him, when 
 he distributes to the family of the deceased what 
 portion of it he thinks proper. Every thing 
 appears to be carried on in the same despotic 
 way, from the Emperor down to the meanest of 
 his subjects, where they have any power at all. 
 
 The premises of Ettamaad Dowlut extend con- 
 siderably beyond the river Jumna; the house it- 
 self is built on its bank, and is the resort of many 
 fishing parties from Agra and Secundra. The fort 
 of Agra stands on the bank nearly opposite to it. 
 
 The road from our last halting place was 
 dreary beyond measure : it lay through a deep 
 ravine, or pass, only of sufficient breadth for 
 one carriage to travel, and so extended for at
 
 129 
 
 least six miles. Unfortunately for us, a waggon 
 had broken down in one part, and completely 
 filled the space ; we were consequently obliged 
 to leave the carriage, and scramble up the al- 
 most perpendicular side of this ravine, or wait 
 for hours in the sun until the waggon was in a 
 state to move on again. Luckily we had only 
 a mile to walk, for the heat was excessive. 
 
 Early on the following morning we crossed 
 the Jumna, and proceeded to Secundra to break- 
 fast. Here we found a regiment of dragoons, 
 tolerably settled in bungalows that they had 
 raised since their arrival there a few months be- 
 fore. 
 
 The most tremendous storm I ever witnessed 
 occurred on the following day. About ten 
 o'clock in the morning the sky began to lower ; 
 black rolling clouds seemed gathering over our 
 heads, with now and then a violent gust of 
 wind. The atmosphere meantime became tinged 
 as by a distant fire, which in an instant was suc- 
 ceeded by total darkness, accompanied by dread- 
 ful peals of thunder. On the spot we happened 
 to be, there were we obliged to remain : for at 
 least twenty minutes I could not distinguish my 
 own hand. It was really awful ! The natives 
 fled from their houses, and prostrated themselves 
 on the ground, in momentary expectation of an 
 earthquake. A gentleman walking in his gar- 
 den, was obliged to remain there : he could not 
 
 K
 
 130 
 
 see the way to his house. From the commence- 
 ment of this wonderful phenomenon, until the 
 sun shone forth again, was full three hours. I 
 nevor witnessed such a scene before, and sin- 
 cerely hope I never may again. 
 
 Seciimlra was at this time much infested by 
 parties of predatory horsemen, who were so ex- 
 pert at their trade, that notwithstanding choki- 
 dars (armed watchmen) were kept on guard at 
 every house and stable, they contrived to steal 
 and carry off many valuable horses. They were 
 even bold enough, at one time, to attack indi- 
 viduals by throwing spears at their palankeens ; 
 so that when any lady or gentleman went from 
 home, the former was attended by matchlock 
 men *, and the latter never failed to carry pis- 
 tols with him. 
 
 A catastrophe still more serious than these in- 
 cursions of the predatory horse had nearly taken 
 place, owing to the rashness of a young officer 
 in the regiment ; and but for the very great pre- 
 sence of mind of the Judge, who dined that day 
 in the cantonment, every European would have 
 been put to death. It was the season of the 
 Moharum, when galloping along by one of their 
 ornamented biers, he overthrew some of the 
 lamps. The alarm was instantly given ; people 
 
 * Men who carry a very long gun that is fired by means of 
 a match, which they carry ready lighted.
 
 131 
 
 flocked in numbers to the spot, raised a hue and 
 evy, and some attempted to stop him, but he 
 eluded them and took refuge in the guard-room. 
 They then proceeded in a body to the com- 
 manding officer's house, and demanded that he 
 should be given up, threatening, in case of re- 
 fusal, to get reinforcements from AgTa, and 
 destroy every European they could find. A 
 servant of the Judge's, upon hearing this, and 
 knowing what a desperate set of people they 
 were, went with all speed to inform his master, 
 who was dining at the regimental mess-room. 
 The Judge immediately mounted his horse, and 
 galloped into Agra; which having entered, he 
 ordered the city gates to be shut, and not to be 
 opened again without his permission upon pain 
 of death. The commanding officer of Secmidra 
 meantime made a pretence of searching for this 
 young man, (whose friends had assisted him to 
 quit the place in disguise,) until informed that 
 he was safely out of their power. He could not, 
 however, venture to rejoin his corps again, and 
 very soon after left the country. 
 
 The scenery round AgTa and Secimdra is some- 
 what dreary, from the numberless ruins which 
 meet the eye on every side : but there are many 
 things worth seeing in the neighbourhood, par- 
 ticularly the Tadge Mahl at Agra, the fort and 
 palace, and the mausoleum of Christie at Futty- 
 poor Siccra ; also a monastery founded for those 
 
 k2
 
 132 
 
 of the Roman Catholic persuasion of any country 
 or nation, by Sumroo, the German general, whom 
 I before made mention of as having caused the 
 massacre of Europeans at Patna. In this mo- 
 nastery he was buried. The Begum Sumroo, 
 his widow, keeps up the establishment, and has 
 also added a nunnery. 
 
 The Tadge Mahl at Agra requires a much 
 abler pen than mine to describe it ; and it is not 
 in the power of any pen, in my opinion, to do 
 it justice. It was built by the Emperor Shaw 
 Jehaan, in the year 1719, (at which period he 
 began his reign,) over the burial place of Mon- 
 taza Mhuly his favourite wife. To her, when 
 on her death-bed, he promised that he would 
 erect a monument which should surpass in 
 beauty any thing of the kind in the known 
 world, and be as superior as she was to the rest 
 of her sex. He accordingly issued his royal 
 mandate to his ministers to collect, at any ex- 
 pense, artificers from all quarters of the globe, 
 as he was determined nothing should be spared 
 to render this work perfect. In as short a time 
 as could be exoected, artificers arrived from 
 England, France, Italy, Greece, and all the ori- 
 ental courts, and the building was immediately 
 commenced upon. The plan was the Emperor's 
 own ; but it is said that the ornamental part 
 was sketched by a Frenchman, and executed 
 under his auspices by artists from Rome, parti-
 
 133 
 
 cularly the pattern and inlaid work of precious 
 stones on the skreen and sarcophagus. 
 
 This building stands in the centre of a large 
 garden, on the banks of the river Jumna, with 
 large minarets containing three octagon apart- 
 ments, one above another, at the four corners, 
 each being surrounded by a colonnade. They 
 are composed of porphyry, granite, and white 
 marble. 
 
 The interior of the Tadg€ is divided into seve- 
 ral suits of apartments, being in form of a square, 
 with the cenotaph in the centre, under the first 
 story ; of which there are three at each corner, 
 surmounted by marble domes, making in the 
 whole one large, and four small domes, with a 
 small high minaret at each corner also of the 
 square marble platform on which it stands, and 
 to which you ascend by a flight of steps from 
 the garden. The platform, or terrace, is en- 
 closed by marble railing. I was shown some 
 lines wTitten on this elegant structure, which I 
 will here transcribe, with the reply. 
 
 " Inscribed to the Emperor who caused it to he erected. 
 
 *' Oh thou ! whose great imperial mind could raise 
 This splendid trophy to a woman's praise ; 
 If love, or grief, inspired the great design, 
 No mortal joy or sorrow equalled thine. 
 Sleep on secure ; this monument shall stand 
 (While desolation's wing sweeps o'er the land,
 
 134 
 
 By tiiTKi and death in one wide ruin hurled) 
 Tlie last triumphant wonder of the world !" 
 
 ** On reading the above. 
 
 " No eastern prince, for wealth or splendour famed, 
 No mortal hand, this beauteous temple framed. 
 In death's cold arms, as loved Montaza slept, 
 While sighs o'er Jumna s winding waters crept, 
 Tears such as angels shed, with fragrance filled, 
 Around her form in pearly drops distilled, 
 Of snowy whiteness — thus congealed they stand 
 A fairy fabric, boast of India's land." 
 
 The Tailge JMaJU is justly reputed the most 
 elegant and chaste structure that can be ima- 
 gined. Its walls are faced and lined with the 
 whitest marble ; the tomb, and whole of the 
 interior, including the skreen, being curiously 
 inlaid with precious stones, not only in \\\Qforiii 
 of flowers, but even in their different shades and 
 colours. In one small carnation I counted forty- 
 two different stones. These stones are princi- 
 pally agate, cornelian of infinite variety, lapis 
 lazuli, onyx, garnet, turquoise, and the like. 
 
 The grand gateway at the entrance of the 
 garden is proportionably magnificent, (there are 
 three others, with six apartments over each,) 
 being of sufficient depth to contain the Em- 
 peror's body-guard drawn up in state for him 
 to pass through, and lofty in proportion. 
 
 The palace and royal baths within the fort are
 
 135 
 
 something of the same style, but the materials 
 are much inferior to those in the Tadge. The 
 ceilings of the apartments in the palace were 
 originally cased with solid silver or gold, and 
 are alone reputed to have cost eleven lacs of ru- 
 pees *. In each state apartment was a chande- 
 lier, suspended by silver or gold chains to match 
 the ceiling. All these the Jauts destroyed and 
 carried away, when they overrun the district; 
 since which time they have been only washed 
 with gold or silver, in imitation of their former 
 splendour. The beautiful carved work of the 
 apartments they likewise destroyed, a few 
 patches only remaining by which we can judge 
 of what it has been. 
 
 * A lac of rupees is twelve thousand pounds.
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 The tomb of CJuistie at Futty-poo)- S'lccra is about 
 a day's journey westward of Agra. It stands 
 upon an elevation of one hundred feet from the 
 ground, having just as many stone steps to as- 
 cend before you reach the grand entrance. These 
 steps extend along the whole front of the build- 
 ing. The gateway is a square building of red 
 granite, with a flat roof, and a parapet on the 
 four sides : the front of it is covered with Per- 
 sian inscriptions, and carving of curious work- 
 manship. To this roof you ascend by three 
 hundred and sixty-five stone steps, on either 
 side. Through the gateway is a spacious area, 
 arcaded on all sides, and paved with white 
 marble. In the centre of it stands the tomb of 
 a holy man named Christie: it was erected to 
 his memory by a merchant, who having risked 
 a considerable property on board some vessels 
 to a distant country, promised him, if his prayers 
 for their safe return should prove successful, that 
 he would cause a monument of this description 
 to be built in token of his gratitude, and that 
 the entrance to it should exceed in height any 
 thing of the kind in Hindostan. The same tra- 
 dition states, that from the time these vessels
 
 137 
 
 sailed until their return, was precisely three hun- 
 dred and sixty-five days, which the number of 
 steps are intended to commemorate. 
 
 The sarcophagus is enclosed within a square 
 building of white marble, surrounded by fret- 
 work of the same, and raised by several steps 
 from the area, which marble steps extend the 
 whole length of the building on either side. 
 
 The tomb itself is white marble, richly inlaid 
 with mother of pearl, fastened by small gold 
 nails ; the whole being enclosed within curtains 
 of silver gauze. The dome, which surmounts 
 this building, is beautifully painted on the in- 
 side with emblematical devices, and passages 
 from the Koraan. This place is constantly 
 guarded by priests, who have a college near 
 the spot founded by the same merchant, and an 
 annual stipend to keep both in repair*. 
 
 From hence we proceeded, about a quarter of 
 a mile farther, to a magnificent palace built by 
 the Emperor Acbar, now, alas ! rapidly falling 
 to decay. The scite of it covers above an acre 
 of ground. The apartments we were shown as 
 having belonged to Tamoulah, the beloved of 
 Achar, (as she was emphatically termed,) are 
 
 * In one of the apartments of this mausoleum was a trap- 
 door, which upon touching the spring flew up, and discovered 
 a gradual descent of some hundred feet ; at the bottom of 
 which was stable room for a thousand horses, who in cases 
 of emergency have been concealed there.
 
 138 
 
 composed of red granite and alabaster. The 
 walls are divided into compartments, on which 
 are landscapes in sculpture delicately executed. 
 
 A structure contiguous to the palace particu- 
 larly attracted our attention, as having an im- 
 mense pillar in the centre, stuck from top to 
 bottom with elephants' teeth, on which we were 
 told the trophies used to be hung that the Em- 
 peror gained in battle. This pillar supported 
 an octagon gallery round it, for the ladies of his 
 family, so contrived as that they should see 
 what was going on below without being seen. 
 On four sides of this gallery, were passages 
 leading to the apartments occupied by these 
 ladies. To the. Emperor himself, a kind of 
 throne, on an elevation in the body of the build- 
 ing, was appropriated ; the whole of the inte- 
 rior being finished with peculiar elegance. 
 
 From hence we traversed an extensive stone 
 terrace, to a building I can only describe as the 
 rotunda, where, during the hot season, the Em- 
 peror was accustomed to sleep. The approach 
 to it, like most others, was by several stone 
 steps surrounding the whole. The apartment 
 on the ground floor was of considerable size : it 
 used to be occupied by his body-guard, and was 
 surrounded by three hundred and sixty-five 
 stone pillars. The one over it, in like manner, 
 by fifty-two, and the upper room by twelve ; to 
 which the ascent led by a handsome stone stair-
 
 130 
 
 case, in good preservation. From this apart- 
 ment we could distinguish the fort of Bhurtpore, 
 before which our army were five times repulsed, 
 .and it still remains in the possession of its Ra- 
 jah. The avenue towards Delhi, through which 
 the Emperor Acbar used to pass in his approach 
 to this palace, contains seven high arched gate- 
 ways, at that time guarded by a proportionate 
 number of armed men. The perspective through 
 these is the most correct and beautiful I have 
 ever seen. Agra and its vicinity, in the direction 
 of this place, is celebrated for oranges : we ate 
 them here in great perfection, although the bar- 
 barous Jaiits had left little vestige of a garden. 
 
 These provinces having been newly conquered 
 by the British army, had as yet paid no revenue 
 to Government, who accordingly appointed two 
 commissioners to survey them, and form an es- 
 timate of what they were capable of furnishing. 
 I consider myself particularly fortunate in being 
 of their party, since it afforded me a more per- 
 fect view of the manners and customs of the na- 
 tives, and a better opportunity of seeing the 
 country than was likely to occur again ; indeed 
 we visited some parts of it where Europeans had 
 never been before. 
 
 On the 1st day of December, 1808, attended 
 by a regiment of Seapoys and a numerous reti- 
 nue, we travelled in the suite of the commis- 
 sioners towards Delhi, the capital of the Mogul
 
 140 
 
 Empire. Our line of march, including cattle, 
 baggage-waggons, and followers, extended more 
 than a mile. 
 
 On quitting Secimdra we crossed the river. 
 Jumna, opposite to an ancient hunting seat of 
 the Emperor Acbar, at a village named Madower. 
 In the rainy season the Jumna is here both wide 
 and rapid, although during the hot winds it is 
 nearly dry : its waters in the hot season are sup- 
 posed to possess properties like those of the 
 Nile, that is, in producing cutaneous disorders, 
 which, although extremely troublesome, do not 
 affect the general health. The irritation caused 
 by these watery pustules is sometimes exces- 
 sive, only to be relieved by cooling medicine 
 and a spare diet ; yet I am inclined to believe, 
 that by boiling the water before it is made use 
 of, the ill effects of it might be in a great mea- 
 sure if not wholly prevented : precipitating small 
 pieces of charcoal will also much assist the pu- 
 rification of it. 
 
 From Madower we drove through a cultivated 
 country supplied with water by numerous wells, 
 and thickly planted with trees. Among these 
 the baiibool* tree rose conspicuous. On either 
 side the road were fields of the cotton plant, 
 which at a distance appeared like low shrubs 
 
 * From the baubool wood is made the best kind of charcoal, 
 (a fuel much used in Indian kitchens instead of coals,) and also 
 the best and strongest tent pegs.
 
 141 
 
 bearing innumerable large white blossoms : the 
 cotton was, at this season, just starting from the 
 pod. From hence we made Huttrass in two 
 marches. Huttrass is two-and-thirty miles from 
 Secundra. After passing through two or three 
 small villages we came to a level country richly 
 cultivated, and saw the fort of Sarseney. This 
 fort was resolutely defended by its Rajah, Bhag- 
 waut S'mg, in the year 1802, but laid siege to 
 and taken by the troops under command of Ge- 
 neral, afterwards Lord Lake, by whom it was 
 dismantled, and is now in a ruinous state. The 
 town of Sarseney appears to have recovered it- 
 self from the ravages of war ; but the natives of 
 these provinces are so prone to pillage, that 
 merchants are afraid to expose their goods for 
 sale. We were told of a waggon-load of mer- 
 chandise, consisting chiefly of bale goods, that 
 was plundered near this place only a few days 
 before ; and four matchlock men, who travelled 
 with it for protection, were murdered on the 
 spot. 
 
 Near Sarseney we saw the remains of some 
 beautiful gardens, containing several light pa- 
 vilions of white marble. They consisted of one 
 large apartment, surmounted by a cupola, and 
 surrounded by a verandah. These pavilions 
 were raised six or seven feet from the ground. 
 The approach to them was by wide paved ter- 
 races, crossing each other at right angles, shaded
 
 142 
 
 by lofty trees, under which were fountains aild 
 beds of flowers. The town is completely com- 
 manded by the fort, which stands upon an emi- 
 nence, and is now occupied by a native col- 
 lector of revenue, called a teseeldar. 
 
 The city of Coel, which we entered towards 
 evening, is a large populous place, surrounded 
 by a high brick wall, and secured at each en- 
 trance by ponderous gates, with a number of 
 armed men. 
 
 The general face of the country, from Sarseney 
 to Coel, is one extensive plain, with here and 
 there a few small bushes, or a cluster of misera- 
 ble huts. It is not here, as in England, that the 
 eye is regaled at intervals by the smiling ap- 
 pearance of a neat thatched cottage, through 
 the luxuriant foliage of a spreading oak. Small 
 forts built of mud supply their place ; and these 
 are to be seen in all directions. Just before we 
 reached Coel, I observed a number of toddy trees, 
 the sap of which is made use of instead of yeast 
 to lighten bread; and, when fresh, is eagerly 
 drank by the Hindoo natives, who are many of 
 them fond of intoxicating liquors, an effect 
 which this syrup speedily produces. There is 
 another sort, called bang, extracted from a herb 
 of that name which is cultivated in most of their 
 gardens. The cultivated parts of this district 
 are almost overrun with a plant they call pab?ia 
 christi, from which an oil with medicinal pro-
 
 143 
 
 perties is extracted, known in England I believe 
 by the title of castor oil. 
 
 From hence we proceeded the following morn- 
 ing, on elephants, through an avenue of lime 
 trees a mile in length, to the fort of Alii Ghur, 
 which was taken by assault in 1804 by General 
 Lake. It is situated on an extensive plain, has 
 been put into thorough repair by the British 
 €rovernment, and was, at the time I am speak- 
 ing of, garrisoned by British troops. 
 
 About ten miles from Coei, on an artificial 
 eminence, stands the picturesque village of 
 Purwah. The soil in general appears sandy, 
 and except near villages, completely unculti- 
 vated. The next place we passed was CJioiir- 
 poor, or, in plain English, Thieves' Village ; we 
 were however fortunate enough to go unmo- 
 lested, and shortly after came to a fortified 
 place called Meali-poor. Kourjah, where we 
 arrived to breakfast, is a large well-built town, 
 of red brick dwellings, embosomed in trees ; 
 the soil richer than any we had seen before. It 
 was a beautiful sight to observe in one field the 
 young barley springing up, and in the next, 
 either grain in sheaves, or ripe for cutting. Thus 
 they contrive to have the harvest come in suc- 
 cession, so that neither time nor ground shall 
 be lost. 
 
 The fort of Kourjah is completely dismantled, 
 and the appearance of the inhabitants vve saw
 
 144 
 
 extremely wretched. I rode through the prin- 
 cipal street on an elephant, accompanied by one 
 of the commissioners ; and we were followed by 
 hundreds of children, sent by their parents to 
 beg, coda ka wasti, " for the love of God," a few 
 pice * to buy ottaf- The remains of some fine 
 orchards are observable, but the ravages of war 
 still more so. On leaving Kourjah we crossed 
 a down, bounded only by the horizon, leaving 
 on the left hand a large village well wooded, 
 and at a short distance from it two mud forts. 
 The level country continued ; but soon we found 
 ourselves encompassed by a grass jungle five- 
 and-twenty feet high ; the stems of it were like 
 small reeds, that rebounded as we passed by 
 with considerable force. The immense height of 
 this grass (although the chief of our party were 
 mounted on elephants) prevented our distin- 
 guishing any thing beyond the road we travelled. 
 This led us into another thick jungle of brush- 
 wood, which continued many miles. Wells, 
 containing in general excellent water, are found 
 by the road-side, for the accommodation of tra- 
 vellers, every five or six miles throughout these 
 provinces, in place of running streams, which 
 are very rare. The natives have frequently two 
 or more wells in a field, from which, by means 
 
 * Pice is the smallest copper coin, answering to the French 
 Hard, but of even smaller value, 
 t Otta-meal of the coarsest kind.
 
 145 
 
 of a bamboo lever, they draw water very expe- 
 ditiously ; and swinging round the buckets at- 
 tached to each pole, throw it over the land 
 with great facility. We felt the cold at this 
 place (Secundrabad) very severe. Our tents 
 were pitched on a plain of fine soft grass, beau- 
 tifully embellished by trees forming with their 
 united foliage an extensive shade. In the even- 
 ing I rode on horseback with some of the gen- 
 tlemen, while others took their guns, and were 
 well repaid for their walk by meeting with ex- 
 cellent sport. They brought home several brace 
 of partridge, some pheasants, a peacock, and 
 tvv^o or three hares. In the course of the night 
 our people saw two leopards. 
 
 Our journey the following morning lay through 
 a thick jungle of briars ; the road was tolerably 
 beaten, but intolerably dusty. The air conti- 
 nued extremely bleak. At the entrance of a 
 wood we came to a good looking village, which, 
 the guide told us, was inhabited by banditti ; 
 this was not very agreeable intelligence, con- 
 sidering that our encampment could not be many 
 miles distant. On arriving at the tents, we 
 found the head man of this village waiting to 
 present the commissioners with Persian and 
 other fruits ; amongst which was a quantity of 
 grapes, so large and highly flavoured, that I 
 wished it were in my power to transport some 
 
 L
 
 14G 
 
 of them to my friends in England. The pears 
 and apples were equally fine, and the oranges 
 much sweeter than in England, but they wanted 
 that grateful flavour ; which may, I think, be 
 attributed to their being left on the tree here 
 until they are ripe enough to fall off, whereas 
 those imported into England from Lisbon are 
 gathered when only half ripe, and always retain 
 some little acidity. 
 
 Our next march was to a place called Soorage- 
 poi^e, fifteen miles farther. The weather conti- 
 nuing very cold, I mounted my horse, and, ac- 
 companied by some of the gentlemen, rode about 
 ten miles, when we unexpectedly encountered a 
 deep stream, which we were obliged to cross in 
 boats. Whether my horse was alai*med, or from 
 what cause I know not, but he would not allow 
 me to mount him again ; so, after many fruitless 
 attempts, I gave it up, and his groom led him 
 the rest of the way. The practice in this coun- 
 try of a groom running with each horse is fre- 
 quently found a convenience, and it certainly 
 proved so, in this instance, to me. There was 
 fortunately an elephant, with a hoivdah * on its 
 
 * A hon'dah is like the body of a gig, fixed on the back of the 
 elephant by ropes and an iron chain : under it is a thick pad, to 
 prevent its chafing his back. This pad is entirely covered with 
 housings of broad cloth, generally scarlet, with a deep fringe 
 all round, reaching half way down his legs. On one side, un-
 
 147 
 
 back, at no great distance behind, who proved 
 more tractable, and on him I prosecuted my 
 journey. A few miles farther brought us to a 
 serai, or receptacle for travellers, of which I 
 have before spoken. Near this serai stands 
 the tomb of some Mussulman of rank : it is 
 composed of three large domes, cased with 
 marble ; and at each corner of the platform are 
 four minarets of the same material. We en- 
 camped on this day near the field of battle on 
 the memorable 11th of September, 1803, when 
 the British forces under Lord Lake conquered 
 the Mahratta army, (full treble their number,) 
 and made them fly in all directions. The pre- 
 sence of mind and bravery of this distinguished 
 general was never more conspicuous than on this 
 occasion : the conquest of Delhi, and possession 
 of the royal family, were the immediate conse- 
 quences. This place is about five miles from 
 Delhi, and is called Putpore Gunge. It is di- 
 vided from Delhi by the river Jumna, which 
 having crossed in boats that awaited our arrival, 
 we met a messenger from the resident, to con- 
 duct us to his house, and soon after, himself and 
 suite came out to meet us. Accordingly, re- 
 
 der the housing, is hung the ladder, by which you ascend and 
 descend ; for which purpose the elephant sinks on all fours. 
 His rising again is rather alarming, as he docs so by a sudden 
 jerk ; the fore feet first, the hinder ones rather more leisurely. 
 They sometimes roar most terribly when they kneel down. 
 
 L 2
 
 148 
 
 mounting our elephants, (who had forded the 
 stream,) we followed our conductors, and were 
 soon after seated at an elegant breakfast, at the 
 resident's palace, where a numerous party were 
 expecting our arrival. Amongst these was the 
 Begum Sumroo, widow to the general of that 
 name before spoken of*. Since his death, which 
 happened many years ago, she married Monsieur 
 L'Oiseaux, a French officer in the Mahratta ser- 
 vice, under General Perron. Being at that time 
 in possession of a large territory that had been 
 purchased with the riches amassed by Sumroo, 
 and having regular organized troops in her ser- 
 vice, she gave him the appointment of com- 
 mander-in-chief. But either owing to the na- 
 tural fickleness of her disposition, or that she 
 found him difficult to manage, she s^oon took an 
 inveterate dislike, and formed a project to get 
 rid of him. Having won over the troops to her 
 views, she caused a pretended revolt among 
 them ; when, agreeable to the arrangement she 
 had made, they seized and carried her to a place 
 of confinement. Her emissaries immediately con- 
 veyed the tidings of it to L'Oiseaux ; (who was 
 enjoying himself at one of his hunting seats;) 
 
 * On quitting Meer Koss'im, at Patna, General Sumroo en- 
 tered the Mahratta service, and was stationed at Agra, where 
 he first saw the Begum, then a young and beautiful girl, whom 
 he contrived to steal from her friends, married her, and edu- 
 cated her in the Romish faith.
 
 149 
 
 and this account was quickly followed up by 
 another, purporting that the Begum had de- 
 stroyed herself by swallowing a large diamond 
 ring that she usually wore on her finger. She 
 foresaw the effect this intelligence would produce 
 on the timid mind of the Frenchman, who imme- 
 diately became so alarmed, that with a pistol 
 he put an end to his existence. No sooner was the 
 Begum informed of the event, than she quitted 
 her prison, resumed the reins of government, and 
 every thing again wore the face of peace. This 
 woman has an uncommon share of natural abi- 
 lities, with a strength of mind rarely met with, 
 particularly in a female. The natives say that 
 she was bom a politician, has allies every where, 
 mid friejids no where. Her own dominions and 
 principal residence is at Sirdanah, about twenty 
 miles from Meerat, and a day's journey from 
 Delhi. She adheres to the Mussulman mode of 
 living, as far as respects food, but no farther. 
 She has not the slightest fancy for the seclusion 
 they impose ; on the contrary, frequently enter- 
 taining large parties in a sumptuous manner, both 
 at her palace in Delhi and at Sirdanah. During 
 Lord Lake's sojourn at Delhi, he was her frequent 
 guest. They used frequently to sit down be- 
 tween twenty and thirty persons to dinner ; and 
 when the ladies of the party retired, she would 
 remain smoking her hookah, for she made it a 
 point never to leave her " pipe half smoked."
 
 150 
 
 This Princess has been frequently known to com- 
 mand her army in person on the field of battle ; 
 and on one occasion, during the reign of the Em- 
 peror Shaw Allum, she is said to have saved the 
 Mogul Empire by rallying and encouraging her 
 troops, when those of the Emperor were flying 
 before the enemy. In consequence of which, 
 Shaiv Allum immediately created her a Princess, 
 or Begum, in her own right, to take rank next 
 after the royal family. He also conferred on her 
 the title oi Zaboobnssa , which signifies " ornament 
 of her sex." Her features are still handsome, al- 
 though she is now advanced in years. She is a 
 small woman, delicately formed, with beautiful 
 hazel eyes ; a nose somewhat inclined to the 
 aquiline, a complexion very little darker than an 
 Italian, with the finest turned hand and arm I ever 
 beheld. Zophany, the painter, when he saw her, 
 pronounced it a perfect model. She is univer- 
 sally attentive and polite. A graceful dignity, 
 accompanies her most trivial actions ; she can be 
 even fascinating, when she has any point to carry. 
 She condescendingly offered to introduce me to 
 the royal family, which without hesitation I ac- 
 cepted, as my curiosity had been much excited, 
 and, being a lady, I knew that I should be ad- 
 mitted into the private apartments. The follow- 
 ing morning she gave a splendid breakfast to our 
 party, and I afterwards accompanied her to the 
 royal residence. We were received at the palace 
 
 7
 
 151 
 
 gates by several of the household, who escorted 
 us across three or four courts paved with flat 
 stone, until we came to one of white marble. Here 
 we quitted our palankeens, and, with some of the 
 Begwm's suite, approached the hall of audience. 
 In the centre of this apartment stood the miisnud, 
 or throne : it was a square block of crystal, of 
 immense value. Before this the Begum made 
 a profound salaam, and motioned to me to do 
 the same ; indeed I had determined to follow her 
 example on all points of etiquette during the 
 visit. We then ascended a few marble steps 
 that led into one of the passages to the zenanah, 
 where we were informed His Majesty expected 
 us. Before this door, which was about twelve 
 feet high, hung a curtain of scarlet broad cloth. 
 The Begum now led the way, through crowds 
 of eunuchs, into a square enclosure paved with 
 white marble, enclosed by colonnades of the 
 same, under which were doors leading to the 
 different apartments. Here we were met by the 
 Queen Dowager, mother to the reigning Em- 
 peror, an ugly, shrivelled old woman, whom the 
 Begum embraced ; which ceremony over, the 
 attendants left us in her care. We followed this 
 good lady across another court, similar to the 
 one we had just quitted, except that it was co- 
 vered by a carpet, at the edge of which the Be- 
 gum left her shoes. I was preparing to do the 
 same, when I heard some one say, in Persian,
 
 152 
 
 " It is not expected of the English lady ;" or, 
 which is a more literal translation, " The Eng- 
 lish lady is excused." On looking up I per- 
 ceived the Emperor of Delhi, seated at the op- 
 posite side of this court under a colonnade, sur- 
 rounded by his family, to the number, as I af- 
 terwards learned, of two hundred : all, except 
 the Queen, were standing. 
 
 The throne on which the Emperor sat was 
 raised about two feet from the ground : the as- 
 cent to it was by two small steps. The whole 
 was covered with a Persian carpet, spreading a 
 considerable distance on either side. The 
 cushion on which he sat (cross-legged) was co- 
 vered with crimson kinkob, brocaded with gold, 
 a large tassel suspended from either corner. 
 Three large round bolsters, covered with the 
 same kind of silk, supported his back and arms. 
 On a small square cushion before him stood a 
 silver casket, about the size of a large tea-chest, 
 which contained otta of roses and betel nut. His 
 dress was purple and gold kinkob, confined at 
 the waist by a long white shawl. His turban 
 was also of shawl, across the front of which he 
 wore a broad band studded with precious stones. 
 On the King's right hand, below the steps of the 
 musnud, (throne,) sat the Queen. She was dis- 
 tinguished by a tassel of pearls, fastened on the 
 top of her head, and falling over the left temple. 
 Her hair, as is customary with women in India,
 
 153 
 
 was parted over the forehead, smoothed back 
 with rose oil, braided behind, and hanging down 
 her back. A gold ring, of eight inches in circum- 
 ference, with a large ruby between two pearls 
 on it, hung from her nostrils, which were pierced 
 for that purpose. This ring denoted that she 
 was the head of the family, a custom that ap- 
 plies to the meanest of her subjects in a simi- 
 lar situation. Round her neck were two rows 
 of very large pearls, and a number of other 
 necklaces, some set with precious stones, others 
 of pure gold, with which her arms, wrists, and 
 ancles, were also decorated. These gold rings 
 are so pure as to be quite malleable : they are 
 made from the coin called gold mohar, merely 
 melted down without any adulteration, and are 
 generally put on the wrists of infants soon after 
 they are born, being occasionally re-melted, 
 added to, and the size increased, as the child 
 grows larger, unless meantime the parents should 
 require their value to purchase food ; in which 
 case they substitute silver : all slaves wear iron 
 ones*. Her Majesty's fingers and toes were 
 
 * Their distrust of each other, and perhaps being frequently 
 surprised and plundered by hostile powers, first led to the idea 
 of carrying all their valuables about them ; yet is the practice of 
 loading their children with such articles not unfrequently pro- 
 ductive of much misery, for, lured by the prospect of gain, 
 these unhappy infants become the prey of some unprincipled
 
 154 
 
 covered with rings of ruby, emerald, and sap- 
 phire, and an onyx by way of talisman : cor- 
 nelian and lapis lazuli are exclusively worn by 
 the men. Her dress v/as of scarlet shawl, with 
 a deep border of gold all round, in shape not 
 unlike a pelisse, with an enormous long waist. 
 Her ornee, or veil, covering half the head, and 
 falling in graceful folds below her feet, was of 
 clear white muslin, with a gold border. She, 
 lirke the Emperor, sat with her legs bent under 
 her, and, like him, chewed betel nut all the 
 time she was speaking. This lady is a Pitaan *, 
 and of a remarkably dark complexion, almost 
 black, which contrasted with the whiteness of 
 the pearls produced an extraordinary effect. 
 
 The Emperor, who is of Mogul extraction, of 
 the house of Timoor, and a lineal descendant of 
 the great Tamerlane, is remarkably fair for an 
 
 being, who having stripped them, throw their bodies down a 
 well, and they are no more heard of. Such occurrences are, 
 I regret to say, too common in tliis country. 
 
 * The Pitaans are a race of people who inhabit the tract of 
 country to the north-west of Hindostan. Tlie Afghans, who 
 inhabit a country north-west of Delhi, are also called Pitaans, 
 and, as tradition states, are descended from Saul, King of 
 Israel- They were at one time in possession of Kabul, but it 
 was wrested from them by Timoor Shaw, and made a royal 
 residence for the Great Moguls. He removed his throne from 
 Candahar to Cabul, and the seat of government was afterwards 
 transferred to Delhi.
 
 155 
 
 Indian. His eyes are large, dark hazel ; a well- 
 shaped nose, fresh colour in his cheeks ; and he 
 might certainly pass for a handsome man, if he 
 were not disguised by a black bushy beard. His 
 age appeared to be about fifty ; the Empress 
 not half that age. I afterwards heard that she 
 had been in the suite of the former Queen, and 
 was not of royal parentage. 
 
 The Dowager Begum, mother to the King, 
 took her station rather in front of the throne, on 
 his left-hand side : he immediately ordered her 
 a seat. 
 
 When a Mussulman Emperor dies, all his 
 wives and concubines, except the mother of the 
 reigning monarch, are confined in a separate pa- 
 lace, maintained, and guarded at his expense, as 
 long as they live ; nor do they consider such con- 
 finement any hardship, being accustomed from 
 their infancy to attach the idea of respectability 
 to that of seclusion. It is perhaps the only state 
 in which these women could be happy. The 
 dress of the Queen 'mother was ruby-coloured 
 satin, with a gold and silver border. Her ornee 
 was of green shawl, bordered with gold. On 
 her neck, ears, and wrists, she wore a profusion 
 of pearls, besides a superb armlet composed of 
 different precious stones *. Her fingers, which 
 
 * Every Indian wears a talisman on the left arm, in addition 
 to their other ornaments.
 
 15G 
 
 were seen just emerging from the sleeves of her 
 dress, were covered with jewels. The sons, and 
 near relatives of the family, stood behind the 
 Dowager Begum, forming a half circle : his own 
 and his sons' wives were on the opposite side, 
 while the Emperor, being seated in the centre, 
 the party formed a complete crescent. I was 
 particularly struck with the wife of one of the 
 princes, named Jehanghier : she was a tall thin 
 young woman, of light complexion, (a Mo- 
 gulanee princess,) of rather pensive appear- 
 ance, dressed entirely in white muslin, without 
 an ornament of any kind. Her husband, it ap- 
 peared, was a wild extravagant youth, in dis- 
 grace with the Emperor his father, and under 
 temporary banishment from court, but petted 
 and supplied with money by the Empress, (his 
 mother,) whom His Majesty frequently ad- 
 dressed, in my hearing, by the title of " Mother 
 of Jehanghier y 
 
 When we were admitted into the Royal Pre- 
 sence, the Begum Sumroo made three salaams, 
 and I followed her example. This is called the 
 tusleem, and only performed to crowned heads. 
 In compliance with eastern custom, I then ad- 
 vanced towards the throne, and presented, on 
 a clearf white napkin, the usual offering of four 
 gold mohurs, (eight pounds sterling,) which the 
 Emperor accepted, and with a condescending 
 smile handed over to the Empress. I then.
 
 157 
 
 agreeable to the lesson I had been taught, re- 
 treated backwards to the edge of the carpet, 
 again making the tusleem. The same ceremony, 
 with two gold mohurs, was repeated to Her 
 Majesty ; which she having graciously accepted, 
 the same sum was presented to the Dowager ; 
 so that I paid rather dear for my curiosity. 
 Having gone through the pantomime of again 
 retreating backwards, (it not being the etiquette 
 to turn our backs on royalty,) I regained my 
 post, by sidling into the circle next to the Be- 
 gum Sumroo. The Emperor immediately or- 
 dered a seat to be placed for me at the foot of 
 the throne, which politeness, rather than incli- 
 nation, induced me to accept; for I foresaw 
 that a conversation with him would be the con- 
 sequence ; and so it proved. The first question 
 he asked me was, " What relation are you. 
 Lady, to the Royal Family of England?" I he- 
 sitated to reply. Thinking that I had not under- 
 stood him, he asked the Begum if I did not un- 
 derstand Persian. She replied, she believed I 
 did, a little. He then repeated his former 
 question to her. She said, she did not know. 
 I still remained silent, affecting not to under- 
 stand him, although wondering what could in- 
 duce him to ask the question. Not wishing to 
 lessen my own consequence, and still more 
 averse to telling an untruth, (for I saw that he 
 had an idea of my being so related,) I turned to
 
 158 
 
 the Begum, and addressed some observation to 
 her in the Hindostanee language, which seemed, 
 to convince him that I could speak no other ; and 
 as that is not the language of the court. His Ma- 
 jesty's conference with me was but of short du- 
 ration. As a particular mark of favour, he then 
 took a betel nut from his casket, and cutting it 
 into two pieces, sent half of it to me by his young- 
 est son, Miirza Selim, a boy of about twelve years 
 of age. I did not at all relish the idea of putting 
 it into my mouth ; but it would have been an af- 
 front if I had not ; so I contrived, unperceived, to 
 get it out again as quick as possible. His hookah 
 was then brought, from which he took two or 
 three whiffs, and sent it away. The Queen's was 
 also placed before her ; but as it is not etiquette 
 to smoke in His Majesty's presence, unless he 
 signifies his approbation, (which he omitted to 
 do on the present occasion,) hers was also, after 
 a few minutes, removed. 
 
 On our preparing to take leave, the Queen 
 took from a small tray (in the hands of one of 
 her attendants) a pair of green shawls, which 
 she gracefully placed upon my shoulders, say- 
 ing, '' Jeta ro !" which means, '* Live for ever!" 
 I then tusleemed to the King, who returned it 
 by a slight inclination of the head ; and, re- 
 treating backwards, we were soon out of the 
 Presence. I took this opportunity to inquire of 
 the Begum Sumroo what His Majesty meant
 
 159 
 
 by asking me if I was related to the Royal Fa- 
 mily of England ? and what reason he had for 
 supposing me related to them ? From her reply, 
 I discovered that this mistake had arisen from 
 my having on a gold bandeau under my white 
 lace veil, which owing to its weight had slipped 
 over the left temple. This circumstance, added 
 to the rich appearance of the bandeau, (it being 
 of the Etruscan pattern of dead and shining gold, 
 tastefully intermixed,) impressed His Majesty 
 with the idea that I must be a branch of that il- 
 lustrious family ; a bandeau on the head being 
 with them the insignia of royalty *. 
 
 At the palace gates the Begum and I sepa- 
 rated, to dress for dinner; to which we after- 
 wards sat down, at the resident's table, in num- 
 ber upwards of fifty persons. Contrary to the 
 practice of women in this country, the Begum 
 Sumroo always wears a turban, generally dam- 
 son colour, which becomes her very much, and 
 is put on with great taste. I had almost for- 
 gotten to mention a ceremony that struck me as 
 being extremely ludicrous, which is, that of a 
 man, with a long white beard, marching into 
 the room while the party were at breakfast, and, 
 without any preface, beginning to read as fast 
 and loud as he was able, all the news of the day, 
 from a paper in manuscript called the Acbar ; 
 
 * Of this circumstance I was at that time ignorant.
 
 160 
 
 in which was related every, the most minute cir- 
 cumstance respecting the Royal Family, some- 
 what resembling a bulletin, which I understood 
 was the practice at this hour in the house of 
 every great personage. The Emperor is, in like 
 manner, entertained with anecdotes of the resi- 
 dent's family, the city news, &c. I could 
 scarcely avoid smiling at the profound attention 
 paid by the Begum to this man's nonsense. 
 These readers are much respected by the na- 
 tives, who sit for hours while they relate Persian 
 tales, the ladies of the family listening at the 
 same time behind a purdah *. Both men and wo- 
 men are the greatest gossips in the world ; but 
 so averse are they to exertion, that they prefer 
 paying a person for talking or reading to them, 
 to doing either themselves. 
 
 * A purdah is a curtain, generally quilted, which hangs be- 
 fore a door, to denote that it is a private apartment ; and so 
 sacred a barrier is it considered, that no person, except the 
 principals of a family, presume to approach it.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 A PARTY was proposed for the next day to view 
 the curiosities with which this neighbourhood 
 abounds. I accordingly accompanied General 
 O- — on an elephant, the rest of the party fol- 
 lowing, some on elephants, some on horseback. 
 We first proceeded to the Kootub Minar, a kind 
 of obelisk so named, about twelve miles from 
 Delhi. The resident being of the party, we had, 
 in addition to our own attendants, his body- 
 guard, forming altogether a grand cavalcade. 
 General O — and myself attracted particular at- 
 tention, from being mounted upon one of the royal 
 elephants that the Emperor had been so polite 
 as to order for my use during our sojourn in his 
 capital. The animal was of course richly capa- 
 risoned, and with a silver howdah on his back 
 looked very superb ; but another still more po- 
 tent reason was, the handfuls of silver which 
 the General threw among the populace as we 
 passed. They soon recognized him as their 
 former Governor, and gave the strongest proof 
 of his popularity by the shouts with which they 
 followed us much beyond the city gates. The 
 first object that attracted my attention after 
 
 JM
 
 162 
 
 passing through the adjmere gate, was the 
 remains of a college founded by Meer Dahn 
 AlU Khan, in the reign of Shmv Jehan, which 
 must have been magnificent. A little farther, 
 on the left hand side, stood the Royal Observ- 
 atory amid piles of ruinous palaces, too nu- 
 merous to describe, but affording the most 
 striking proofs of the opulence of their former 
 possessors. In little more than an hour we 
 reached the superb mausoleum of Sufter Jung, 
 grandfather of the late Sadut Alii, Grand Vizier, 
 and Nawaab of Lucknow. This building, which 
 in magnificence and elegance of structure ex- 
 ceeds any I have seen except the Tadge at Agra, 
 stands on an elevated terrace of marble, erected 
 upon another of stone, in the centre of a large 
 garden, surrounded by four high brick walls, 
 and is in the most perfect state of preserva- 
 tion. The garden is filled with odoriferous 
 shrubs of every description. The entrance to it 
 lies through an immense arched gateway, beau- 
 tifwUy proportioned, forming a hollow square 
 open to the dome, round whose tastefully carved 
 fret-work roof, were several small apartments 
 railed in towards the square. The approach to 
 these was by a handsome stone staircase. After 
 passing through two or three of these small 
 rooms, we came to a spacious apartment which 
 extended the whole length of the building ; on 
 the sides and ceilings of which were flowers de-
 
 163 
 
 licately painted, and of brilliant ccflours, on a 
 silver ground. The building itself is of stone. 
 
 From hence we proceeded to the Kootub Mi- 
 nar, and were not sorry to find tables spread in 
 a fine large tent, with an elegant cold collation. 
 After doing justice to this repast, we sallied 
 forth on foot to examine this greatest of all cu- 
 riosities. It is considered to have been erected 
 upwards of two hundred years, but whether of 
 Mussulman or Hindoo workmanship does not 
 appear so clear, although generally supposed to 
 be the latter. It is in form an obelisk, two hun- 
 dred and thirty feet in height, with a base in 
 proportion, lessening very considerably towards 
 the top. The building is divided into four equal 
 parts, with a railing of stone round the outside 
 of each. Its walls are composed of red granite 
 and white marble, in alternate triangular and 
 semi-circular pieces. A circular staircase leads 
 to the summit — a flat roof, surrounded by a pa- 
 rapet. Having ascended half its height, I was 
 glad to retrace my steps, being completely fa- 
 tigued ; but some of the gentlemen who reached 
 the top, were amply compensated for their trou- 
 ble by the beautiful and extensive prospect that 
 presented itself. Although the day was remark- 
 ably mild, and near the surface of the earth 
 scarcely a breath of air was stirring, yet on the 
 top of the Kootub Mi?mr the wind was so high 
 that the gentlemen with difficulty kept their feet. 
 
 M 2
 
 1G4 
 
 Our march from hence, to the tomb of Kootub ud 
 Deen, was frequently intercepted by fragments of 
 ruins. The remains of this holy man are enclosed 
 within a court about fourteen feet square, paved 
 and surrounded with white marble : the enclosure 
 is of net- work, ten feet high. The marble slab 
 over the body, when the weather permits, is 
 covered with scarlet cloth, measuring ten feet 
 square, fringed with gold, and richly embroider- 
 ed. This place is guarded day and night. Two 
 moolahs receive an annual stipend for reading a 
 certain number of daily prayers over the ceno- 
 taph. This extraordinary man exacted a promise 
 when dying, and made it binding to all his pos- 
 terity, under forfeiture of a considerable sum of 
 money, that no woman should be allowed to ap- 
 proach his remains ; which being politely signi- 
 fied to us, we contented ourselves with looking 
 through the skreen, for as / was the only lady of 
 the party, the gentlemen did not choose to make 
 any distinction. This worthy Mussulman, we 
 concluded, must have been crossed in love. The 
 priests, (who were no small gainers by the visit,) 
 now produced some white muslin turbans, one 
 of which they bound round each of our heads. 
 Thus adorned, we marched through sundry pas- 
 sages and marble courts, until we came to the 
 tombs of Bahadar Shaw and Shaio Allum, late 
 Emperors of Delhi. The latter was father, the 
 former grandfather, to the present monarch.
 
 165 
 
 Their tombs are within one enclosure, in the 
 centre of a square space, similar to that of 
 Kootub ud Deen, only larger, defended also like 
 his by marble net-work. These tombs were 
 covered by one large canopy of scarlet and gold 
 kinkob, fringed with gold. This was supported 
 by six long silver poles, most richly embossed. 
 The grave of Shaw Allum, last deceased, was 
 covered with a pall of the same materials as the 
 canopy : two fans, of peacocks' feathers, with 
 silver handles, lay at his feet ; while two priests 
 read alternately passages from the Koran, which 
 we were told is customary for twelve months 
 after the decease of any potentate, a certain 
 number of moolahs being paid by the family for 
 this purpose. A kind of mass is performed ; and 
 during these twelve months the lamps round the 
 tomb are not suffered to expire. We then passed 
 under a gateway of considerable depth, the 
 ceiling of which (a square of twenty feet) was 
 sandal wood, beautifully and curiously carved. 
 This led to a bridge of rude stone by the side of 
 a cascade, twenty-five feet in height by five- 
 and-forty broad, rushing from an artificial rock, 
 and over rugged paths, until the stream mean- 
 dered slowly through an enchanting valley. 
 This spot seemed formed for meditation ; and I 
 truly regretted the short time I could devote to 
 its beauties. Our guides now conducted us to 
 the " wonderful brazen pillar." This pillar is of
 
 166 
 
 solid brass, twenty feet high, and four feet in 
 circumference. Tradition reports it to have been 
 placed there by a Rajah named Fatowly, the 
 founder of Delhi ; to which he was induced by 
 his superstitious reliance on a Brahmin, who 
 told him, when he was about to lay the founda- 
 tion of that city, that provided he placed his 
 seat of government on the head of the serpent 
 that supports the world, his throne and kingdom 
 would last for ever. This pillar was accordingly 
 struck, to ascertain the precise spot, under the 
 superintendance of the Brahmin, who announced 
 to the Rajah that he had been fortunate enough 
 to find it. One of the courtiers, jealous of the 
 increasing influence of this Brahmin, pretended 
 to have dreamed that the place on which the 
 pillar stood was not the head of the serpent, 
 which he alone, in consequence of his nightly 
 vision, had the power to point out. The Rajah 
 immediately gave directions for the pillar to be 
 taken up. The Brahmin appeared equally 
 anxious that it should be ; '* for^" said he, " if 
 / am right, you will find it stained with brains 
 and blood ; but if it prove otherwise, sacrifice 
 me, and pin your faith upon the courtier." The 
 experiment ended, as might be supposed, to 
 the confusion of the courtier and eternal honour 
 of the Brahmin, who literally contrived that it 
 should appear as he had predicted, covered with 
 brains and blood. The Rajah in consequence
 
 167 
 
 loaded him with riches, and the people ever 
 after looked up to him as a superior being. 
 Such is the power of priestcraft ! 
 
 We now remounted our elephants, and re- 
 turned, by a circuitous route, towards Delhi, 
 in, order to view the mausoleum of Humayoon, 
 eldest son of Timoor Shaw, and Governor of 
 Candahar ; also father of the renowned Acbaj\ 
 This building is enclosed by a wall of immense 
 height and thickness, forming a square of con- 
 siderable extent. Two ponderous gates, studded 
 and barred with iron, command the entrance. 
 On an extensive terrace of white marble, raised 
 on many steps, stands this superb sepulchre; 
 the component parts of which are granite and 
 marble, tastefully disposed, and delicately in- 
 laid with silver. The first terrace is of stone, 
 to which you ascend by seven steps; from thence 
 to the marble one are about fourteen more. Un- 
 der this terrace are thirty-two cells for mendi- 
 cant fakeers, and round it is a net-work railing 
 of granite. It has one large dome of white mar- 
 ble, and four smaller ones, supported on pillars 
 of granite, which are covered with a roof of grey 
 marble. The ornament on the top of the principal 
 dome is plated with gold. The sarcophagus is of 
 the purest white marble, with verses from the Ko- 
 ran inscribed on it in Persian characters. This 
 stands in the centre of a spacious apartment 
 open to the dome, lined throughout with white 
 
 1
 
 168 
 
 marble, and paved with the same material. 
 Four large windows in the dome diffuse a so- 
 lemn gleam of light, calculated to impress the 
 mind with ideas equally awful and magnificent. 
 This room measures seventy feet square. At- 
 tached to each corner of the building is a circu- 
 lar one, with a winding staircase, leading to 
 small apartments which are open to the dome, 
 except by a low railing. The fakecr in waiting- 
 directed our attention to a large round plate of 
 silver in the centre of the dome, from which, he 
 said, had been suspended a chandelier of the 
 same precious metal, but which was stolen by 
 the Jauts when they overrun this province. 
 There was notwithstanding still so much left to 
 admire, that we should probably have devoted 
 more time to it, had we not been engaged to 
 dine with the Begum Sumroo. 
 
 Humayoon being the eldest son of Timoor Shaw, 
 ought, according to English ideas, to have suc- 
 ceeded him on the throne ; but primogeniture 
 was not considered at that period in Hindostan 
 — the reigning prince usually named his suc- 
 cessor. The sons of Timoor Shaw were not all 
 by one mother : his favourite wife, an intriguing 
 clever woman, and the mother of Shaw Zemaan, 
 caused him to be seated on the throne. He 
 formed an alliance with Tippoo Sultaan to attack 
 the British possessions in India. Humayoon re- 
 belled against this brother, who accordingly
 
 169 
 
 caused him to be seized, and his eyes put out. 
 The rest of his days he passed in confinement ; 
 and, when dead, was buried here by his son 
 Acbar, at whose expense this splendid monu- 
 ment was raised. 
 
 At the Begum Sumroos palace we found thirty 
 persons of rank assembled, and a splendid ban- 
 quet in the European style. This ended, she arose 
 and threw over the shoulders of each of the la- 
 dies a wreath of flowers formed of a tuberose 
 plant, imited by narrow gold ribbon. No sooner 
 was she re-seated, than strains of soft music 
 were heard, and two folding doors of the saloon 
 flew open as if by enchantment, discovering a 
 number of young girls in the attitude of dancing 
 a ballet, or, as it is here termed, a notch. It 
 appeared to me, however, little more than a dis- 
 play of attitudes ; indeed their feet and ancles 
 were so shackled by a large gold ring, of more 
 than an inch in thickness, and bells strung round 
 another, that springing off" the ground must have 
 been impracticable ; in fact, their dancing con- 
 sisted in jingling these bells in unison with the 
 notes of the musical instruments, which were 
 played by men educated for that purpose. To 
 this music they give effect by appropriate mo- 
 tions of the hands, arms, and person, not forget- 
 ting that more expressive vehicle of the senti- 
 ments, the eyes. Their movements were by no 
 means devoid of grace, particularly when accom-
 
 170 
 
 panied by the voice, although the tones were, in 
 my idea, extremely harsh, and frequently dis- 
 cordant. Seldom more than three girls perform 
 at a time, and with the characters they change 
 the figure. They performed a tale admirably ; 
 for by attending to the different gestures, it was 
 as easily comprehended as if it had been recited. 
 One, more superbly dressed than the others, 
 came forward alone, to go through the motions 
 of flying a kite, which she performed to admira- 
 tion, and with peculiar grace. They pique them- 
 selves, I am told, on this art. 
 
 After breakfast, next morning, we accom- 
 panied the resident to view the royal baths and 
 gardens. The baths are small apartments, en 
 suite, having cupolas on the top of each, with 
 one or more small sky-lights of painted glass. 
 They are paved and lined with white marble, 
 inlaid with cornelian, lapis lazuli, agate, &c. in 
 elegant Mosaic patterns. The cold baths are 
 supplied by fountains from the centre, fixed in 
 a marble bason nearly the size of the room, with 
 a bench all round the inside of it. The tepid 
 and hot baths are rendered so by flues supplied 
 from without. From hence we passed to the 
 aviary, a long narrow apartment formed of the 
 same materials, in which at this time were only 
 a few singing birds for show. There was a 
 larger, we were told, in the Zcnmiah garden, 
 much better supplied. A paved terrace led from
 
 171 
 
 this place to the menagtrie. Mere we saw ti- 
 gers, lynxes, leopards, hyeenas, and monkeys 
 of various description and sizes ; but, to my 
 surprise, no lions. These beasts were reposing 
 under colonnades of marble, secured to a staple 
 by long iron chains. I do not think they liked 
 our intruding on their retirement, for with one 
 accord, but by different modes, they loudly 
 testified disapprobation. The keeper said they 
 were frightened at seeing so many white faces. 
 The royal gardens came next in rotation, but 
 were scarcely deserving of the name : they had 
 never recovered the depredation made by the 
 general enemy, the Jauts. The only things 
 worth notice in them were a few large trees, 
 planted by the Emperor Aurungzebe himself, 
 who was fond of gardening, and kept his gar- 
 dens in great order. A number of wide paved 
 walks crossed each other at right angles, and 
 in the centre of them was a bason containing 
 gold and silver fish ; besides which were foun- 
 tains playing upon beds of flowers, laid out in 
 the Dutch style of tiresome uniformity. Small 
 circular buildings, supported by pillars and 
 faced with marble, terminated the principal 
 walks. 
 
 The description of the royal apartments in the 
 fort at Agra, will answer also for those at Delhi. 
 Fluted pillars of white marble, with gilt cor- 
 nices; pavement of the same, nearly covered
 
 172 
 
 with a Persian carpet ; are the leading features 
 of the latter, with a chandelier suspended from 
 the centre of each room. The chandelier in the 
 banqueting room at Agra, was, in the time of 
 the Emperor Acbar, suspended by ingots of 
 gold. I did not hear of any thing so splendid 
 at Delhi, where, for want of chairs and tables, 
 the palace appeared to me scarcely habitable. 
 There is however in every room a cushion, (or 
 place for one,) raised a little from the floor, for 
 His Majesty ; indeed, when we consider that 
 no one would presume to sit in his presence, or 
 even in an apartment usually occupied by him, 
 all other articles of furniture would be super- 
 fluous. The Emperor's general residence is in 
 the Zenanah : he seldom occupies the outer pa- 
 lace, but on state occasions. 
 
 In the evening I was introduced to the son of 
 Abdoulah Khan, of cherished memory, among 
 the learned men of his country as one of the 
 most liberal patrons of the fine arts, besides 
 being an excellent, just, and good man. He 
 was a native of Cashmere, and chief of a pro- 
 vince. He died in 1805. 
 
 We had now only to view the Jumna Musjeed, 
 or principal place of Mahometan worship in this 
 city ; for which purpose some of the party set 
 forward immediately after breakfast. This stands 
 in the middle of the city. The ascent to it is by 
 a number of large, handsome, stone steps, on
 
 173 
 
 three sides of an immense square area, out of 
 three principal streets. To this area you pass, 
 on either side, through a double gateway, hav- 
 ing apartments over it crowned by a parapet of 
 cupolas. The area is arcaded on three sides — 
 the fourth is the musjeed, or chapel, at one cor- 
 ner of which a saint is interred within an enclo- 
 sure or skreen of marble net-work, covered by a 
 superb canopy : near this no person is permitted 
 to approach with shoes on. The large area is 
 paved all over with white marble, having a 
 square reservoir of water in the centre. This 
 musjeed is surmounted by three marble domes, 
 with gilt ornaments of a spiral form on the tops 
 of each, and is supported at either end by a 
 handsome minaret of granite three stories high, 
 each story having a balcony round it with mar- 
 ble net-work railing, and on the top of each a 
 dome, open all round, supported upon pillars of 
 granite. A spiral staircase leads to the top. 
 The ascent to the musjeed from the area was by 
 seven steps of granite, to a terrace of marble 
 twenty feet broad, on which it stood, extending 
 the whole length of the front. 
 
 As it was not a Sabbath-day, or at the usual 
 hour of prayer, we were permitted to make a 
 minute inspection. There were neither seats, 
 divisions, nor pews, within the building ; no- 
 thing but a plain marble pavement, with a pul- 
 pit similar in shape to those in England, formed
 
 174 
 
 from a solid block of marble ; the whole being 
 enclosed by arches, and the roof also arched, 
 with curious carved work in all directions. 
 
 Some Mussulmcn were at their devotions 
 within the saint's enclosure, and we of course 
 did not disturb them. I knew a gentleman who 
 was imprudent enough once to touch one of his 
 servants with a walking-stick as he passed along, 
 while the man was in the act of prayer, which 
 was no sooner ended, than deliberately taking 
 his sword, he made a cut at his master that 
 had nearly proved fatal : it separated his cheek 
 from the mouth to the ear. 
 
 These peojJte are wonderfully tenacious where 
 their religion is concerned ; and it is no joke to 
 trifle with them. Several were bawling out at 
 the 7nusjeed, as loud as they were able, the first 
 verse of the Koran, which runs thus : 
 
 " Praise be to God, the Lord of all creatures ! 
 
 " The most merciful ! 
 
 " King of the day of jndgment ! 
 
 " Thee do we worship. 
 
 " Of thee do we beg assistance. 
 
 " Direct us in the right way : 
 
 *' In the way of those to whom thou hast been gracious ; 
 
 " Not of those against whom thou art incensed, 
 
 " Nor of those who go astray." 
 
 This verse is repeated by all good Mussulmen 
 when about to undertake any thing of conse-
 
 175 
 
 quence, particularly by the Siads, or immediate 
 descendants of Mahomet. 
 
 In the course of the day I received a message 
 from the Empress, through the Begum Sumroo, 
 inviting me to accompany her to a grand enter- 
 tainment, proposed to be given in the palace on 
 the marriage of one of the royal family. It was 
 to commence on the following evening, and to 
 last for three days. Not doubting my accept- 
 ance of it, the Begum said that a Hindostanee 
 dress was preparing for me to appear in, which 
 would be presented by the Empress herself. 
 Unfortunately, it was not in my power to make 
 use of it ; for the commissioners having finished 
 their business, had made arrangements for quit- 
 ting Delhi tliat very day. On taking leave of 
 the Begum Swnroo, she presented me with a 
 handsome shawl. 
 
 We accordingly set forward as usual, and 
 marched about fifteen miles before breakfast. 
 On leaving the capital of the Mogul empire, we 
 re-crossed the river Jumna, and passing over a 
 sandy plain, arrived at the pretty neat town of 
 Shaw Derah. This place is exceedingly popu- 
 lous, being the dep6t of grain for the city of 
 Delhi, and also a place of security for the cattle 
 belonging to the royal family. 
 
 The village of Furr uk Nugge7\ where we 
 pitched our tents, is on the banks of the Bind 
 Nullah y which, although a deep river, did not
 
 17G 
 
 appear to fertilize the soil around it, as the next 
 morning's march presented only an iincnltivated 
 waste : no symptom of fertility was perceptible 
 until quite the latter part of it, near a small in- 
 different village named Moraad Gunge, and here 
 was little more than a few shrubs and stunted 
 trees. This country has so frequently been the 
 theatre of war, that it is now nearly laid waste. 
 
 At sun-rise the next morning I mounted my 
 horse, and, in company with two of the gentle- 
 men, rode the next sixteen miles into Meratt to 
 breakfast ; soon after which we received the vi- 
 sits of the Judge, two Rajahs, and several offi- 
 cers of His Majesty's 17th regiment who were 
 there encamped. It was now the 18th of Ja- 
 nuary, the weather most delightful. On the 
 19th I received visits from the ladies, and the 
 commissioners gave a dinner party. 
 
 On the 21st we had a large party to break- 
 fast, and I afterwards returned visits ; in doing 
 which I had an opportunity of witnessing a most 
 curious ceremony, peculiar, as I was informed, 
 to these provinces. A young girl appeared 
 veiled from head to foot, with a cord tied round 
 her waist, the end of which was held by a man 
 apparently much older than herself, who walked 
 three or four yards before her, to whom we were 
 informed she was just married. My curiosity 
 induced me to make farther inquiries, when I 
 learned that it was customary in the sect to
 
 177 
 
 which she belonged, for the father, or nearest 
 male relative of a bride, to bind a rope round 
 her waist, tying the end of it round the wrist 
 of the bridegroom, when he leads her home as 
 his property, followed by a procession of rela- 
 tives, friends, and acquaintance, as we then 
 saw. This ceremony, it appears, is intended to 
 be emblematic of their being tied together for 
 life, and that her family resign all right and title 
 to her. In the evening some of us went out on 
 elephants with the dogs, who put up three 
 hyaenas, whom we chased for a considerable 
 time, but never could get within gun-shot of 
 them. Our people brought in a tiger that had 
 just been killed : his skin was so beautiful that 
 I had it cured, in order to cover footstools 
 with it. 
 
 On the 24th I rode out coursing with some of 
 the gentlemen of our party, and found so many 
 hares that we were puzzled which to follow.
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 On the following day the commissioners quitted 
 Meratt, and halted a few hours at Sirdanah, a 
 palace belonging to the Begum Sumroo, where 
 she generally resides. We were escorted over 
 the estate by her colonel commandant, a re- 
 spectable old gentleman of the name of Peton, a 
 Frenchman by birth, but resident at her court 
 for many years. She has a regular cantonment 
 here for her troops, and a strong fort containing 
 some good houses, which are inhabited by the 
 officers and their families. Her soldiers are 
 tall, stout men, with light complexions, hooked 
 noses, and strongly marked features, being 
 principally Rajpoots, who are the best soldiers, 
 but much addicted to chewing opium, generally 
 proud, and often insolent. Their uniform is a 
 dress of dark blue broad cloth, reaching to the 
 feet, with scarlet turbans and waistbands. Her 
 park of artillery seemed also in excellent order : 
 most of the large guns stood in a line in front of 
 the palace gates. She paid us the compliment 
 of ordering a salute to be fired, and apologized 
 for not being there to meet us, on account of the 
 entertainment at the palace, which had detained 
 her at Delhi. We saw a number of fine horses 
 in her stables, and an English coach that had 
 been lately built for her in Calcutta, which was
 
 179 
 
 to be drawn by four of them, with two pos- 
 tilions. I had afterwards the pleasure of ac- 
 companying her in it. The carriage was painted 
 a bright yellow, with silver mouldings, lined 
 with violet-coloured satin, embroidered all over 
 with silver stars. The window frames of solid 
 silver ; the lace and hangings silver ribbon, wove 
 in a pattern, and very substantial, with silver 
 bullion tassels. The wheels were dark blue, to 
 match the lining. The postilions wore scarlet 
 jackets and caps, almost covered with silver 
 lace. She has several fine gardens full of fruit 
 trees. The branches of the orange, lemon, and 
 citron trees, at that time, fairly bent under their 
 luxurious load. 
 
 The surrounding country is highly cultivated, 
 presenting a most cheerful prospect. This is 
 part of what is called the Dooab, in consequence 
 of its being fertilized by two principal rivers, 
 viz. the Ganges and Jumna. Doo is Persian for 
 two^ and aab for water *. It is particularly pleas- 
 ing to the eye, being well wooded and thickly 
 planted with villages, wearing symptoms of great 
 prosperity. In the course of thirteen miles, we 
 passed through five of them. 
 
 From hence to Katowly nothing occurred 
 worth mentioning. Like most other large towns, 
 it is enclosed by a high brick wall, with four 
 
 * Applicable to all the districts west of Allahabad. 
 N 2
 
 180 
 
 entrances, East, West, North, and South, se- 
 cured by as many ponderous gates, studded and 
 barred with iron, having a number of armed 
 men at each of them. 
 
 On the 28th we proceeded on our journey, 
 and felt the cold uncommonly severe. The 
 morning was fine, clear, and frosty, which pro- 
 duced wonderful effects on the breakfast table. 
 Our road was over a sandy plain, with frequent 
 inequalities, which, if they had not been heaps 
 of loose sand, I should have called hills. This 
 continued for six miles, and distressed our car- 
 riage cattle exceedingly. After that, we came 
 upon an extensive down which commanded a 
 good prospect. As I before mentioned, part of 
 the tent equipage, crockery, &c. are sent for- 
 ward at night to be ready on the next encamp- 
 ing ground in the morning. In consequence of 
 the intense cold of the preceding night, two of 
 the bearers were found dead upon the road. 
 Nor was this the only fatal accident that hap- 
 pened : a bullock in one of the waggons was 
 shot, by the carelessness of a man of the Seapoy 
 guard, and died upon the spot. 
 
 A short distance from Miizzuffer Nuggiir, (the 
 place of our destination,) we passed a handsome 
 town called Oiolah, built entirely of brick, which 
 is rather unusual, as in general by far the greater 
 proportion of houses in this country are of cob *. 
 All brick houses in Hindostan have flat roofs
 
 181 
 
 with a low railing all round, where the inha- 
 bitants sit smoking their hookahs of an evening, 
 listening to a relater of Persian tales, or a reciter 
 of poetry, such as the Shah Naumeh, &c. 
 
 About midway on our march the following 
 morning, we were intercepted by a branch of 
 the river H'lndon, which having forded on ele- 
 phants, we returned to our carriages, and drove 
 through groves of mango trees the rest of the 
 way. After breakfast I accompanied some of 
 the gentlemen on a shooting excursion, when we 
 discovered a beautiful shrubbery surrounding 
 the hut of a Brahmin fakeer, close by the side of a 
 fine large lake, on which were innumerable wild 
 fowl, of whom he was the protector. We found 
 means, however, with a few rupees, to satisfy 
 his conscience with respect to their being killed. 
 This place is fifteen miles from Muzzuffer Niig' 
 ger, which town is above a mile in length. 
 
 From this place the country was for the most 
 part level, and cultivated down to the road side. 
 We remarked several flights of wild pigeons on 
 our journey, started a tiger cat and a brace of 
 quail, and saw some romantic views. 
 
 I mounted my horse next morning with the 
 intention of riding to Saharunpore ; but three 
 miles beyond our encampment, we came to a 
 
 * Cob is a mixture of mud, sand, and straw, with a portion 
 of cow duncr.
 
 182 
 
 river which we were obliged to ford on ele- 
 phants, but re-mounted our horses on the other 
 side, and reached Saharunpoj^e to breakfast. 
 Shortly after our arrival, the judge paid us a 
 visit, and invited the party to dine with him. 
 I forgot to mention, that the judge and collector 
 of every district always accompanied the com- 
 missioners to the boundary of it. The climate 
 is considered colder here, than in any part of 
 India. From the judge's house (which stood on 
 an eminence within the fort) we could easily 
 distinguish three distinct ranges of hills, covered 
 with snow, which never entirely melts. Saha- 
 runpore lies low, and in the rainy season is con- 
 sidered extremely unhealthy, owing to the 
 number of streams by which it is surrounded, 
 bringing down putrid matter from the hills ; 
 consequently, fevers and agues are at this time 
 very prevalent. The town is large, and built 
 chiefly of brick. Near it we were shown a gar- 
 den, the property of Government, well stocked 
 with fruit and vegetables, but that was all — it 
 had certainly no beauty to boast, in the year 
 1809. This was a frontier station to the Sieke 
 country ; and it was now thought advisable to 
 assemble an army at a place called Cheelconnah, 
 (about seven miles from hence,) in order to 
 check the encroaching spirit of Runjeet Sing, 
 their leader. Accustomed from their infancy to 
 carry arms, both the Sieks and Mahrattas are
 
 183 
 
 expert in the use of them, particularly the 
 matchlock, which they fire at a mark on full 
 gallop, and seldom miss their aim. The higher 
 classes of these men wear their beards long, and 
 bushy up to the eyes, and are extremely fanci- 
 ful in the colour of them, sometimes tinging 
 them with lilac, pink, light blue, yellow, and 
 even scarlet. I saw one man whose beard was 
 white, edged with purple. Mahometans in ge- 
 neral only wear mustachios. The dresses of the 
 Sieks we saw, were made of silk, wadded with 
 cotton, reaching to their feet ; the sleeves en- 
 tirely obscuring the hands, and edged with a 
 broad gold or silver lace all round the skirts. 
 These dresses are made to fit the shape; the' 
 skirt to wrap across the front, and fasten by 
 strings on one side; their throat being always 
 exposed *. Over this, they wear a long shawl, 
 bound tight round the waist ; a turban on their 
 heads ; and in cold weather, when they go out 
 of doors, two square shawls, one plain, the 
 other sprigged, envelope turban, face, and 
 shoulders, leaving the smallest possible aper- 
 ture, just that they may see their way : shawl 
 socks, and shoes trimmed up at the points, either 
 embroidered on scarlet or yellow cloth, or made 
 of scarlet or yellow leather. Mfissulmen are 
 
 * Seapoys wear three rows of very large white stone beads, 
 tight round theirs, which at a distance has the appearance of a 
 stock.
 
 184 
 
 fond of gay colours, and have not the same ob- 
 jection to wearing any thing made of leather as 
 the Hindoos have. The principal traffic among 
 the natives here seems to be in slaves. Children 
 are brought dow^n annually from the hills for 
 sale. I saw two, apparently about four and five 
 years old, that had been purchased by a native 
 lady for twenty-five rupees — (one pound eleven 
 shillings and three-pence each.) I was horror- 
 struck at the idea, and very far from thinking, 
 at that time, that any circumstances could in- 
 duce me to purchase a human being like a horse 
 or any other animal ; therefore let no one say 
 what he will not do, for we are all, more or 
 less, the creatures of circumstance. 
 
 Some of our party made a digression from 
 Saharunfore. towards Fizabad, in order to exa- 
 mine the source of the Jumna. They expe- 
 rienced much difficulty on account of the rough- 
 ness of the road, over which the cattle could not 
 travel ; so they were obliged to dismount, and 
 pursue their researches on foot. At length they 
 discovered what they sought; it was a pure 
 stream, flowing rapidly through a narrow pass 
 over a bed of large stones. 
 
 From this place, which our party quitted on 
 the 3rd of January, we proceeded to Munglore, 
 a fortified palace belonging to Ramdial Sing, 
 Rajah of Hiirdoar. In so doing, we passed a 
 large well-built town named Jub?^arah, the re-
 
 185 
 
 sidence of his eldest son, who came out to re- 
 ceive us at his castle gate. A more ruffian-like 
 figure I never beheld : he measured, I was told, 
 seven feet in height; and I can answer for it, 
 that he was stout even beyond proportion. We 
 did not quit our carriages upon this occasion ; 
 but he paid us the compliment of mounting his 
 horse, and with his numerous retinue attending, 
 or rather escorting us to his father's palace. 
 Here we found the gates thrown open, and the 
 old Rajah waiting to receive us with a silver 
 salver in his hand, about the size of a common 
 plate, piled up with gold mohars, which he first 
 presented to the commissioners, and on their 
 declining it to me, when, agreeable to etiquette, 
 I made my salaam and declined it also. The 
 same ceremony having been gone through to 
 one or two others, he affected to appear much 
 chagrined, and gave it to one of his servants, 
 who carried it away. We now followed him 
 into his castle. He was a fac simile of Blue 
 Beard^ scimitar and all, that one reads of having 
 murdered so many wives. Equally gigantic as 
 his son, he possessed a stentorian voice that 
 made one tremble. I verily thought that we 
 had entered the country of the Brobdignags. 
 The Rajah's dress was no less singular than the 
 rest of his appearance ; and, to crown all, he 
 had on a pair of bright yellow jack-boots. 
 Miuii^lore is a place of some consequence iu
 
 186 
 
 the manufacturing line, besides being on the 
 high road from Cashmere to our provinces. Per- 
 sian goods of every description must pass this 
 place. The tovs^n is large, and built entirely of 
 brick, which the Rajah causes to be refreshed 
 once a year, to make them look like new. The 
 inhabitants weave cloth, print chintz, &c. They 
 all forsook their houses on our approach, and 
 followed us with loud shouting. I was told it 
 was occasioned by seeing me, the only English 
 lady they had ever seen ; and my being on 
 horseback astonished them still more. Their 
 women, when travelling, have thick curtains 
 drawn round the carriage, so as to elude the 
 most vigilant inspection. 
 
 Munglore is surrounded by fine large timber 
 trees ; and the enclosures to the fields are all of 
 prickly pear, a plant frequently met with in hot- 
 houses in England, and which forms an impe- 
 netrable fence. The inhabitants are all Hindoos. 
 They esteem the peacock a sacred bird : we 
 observed numbers of them walking quite tame 
 about the streets. 
 
 While taking the air on an elephant in the 
 evening, I fell in with a caravan of merchants 
 from Cabiil, who at first stared at me as if they 
 had seen an ourang-outang ; but I desired one 
 of my attendants to explain to them that we had 
 a large encampment not far off, and if they 
 would go there, they would be able to dispose
 
 187 
 
 of a great many things. They made no ob- 
 jection, and accordingly we all proceeded to- 
 gether. Their cargo consisted of beautiful Per- 
 sian cats, birds, dried fruits, sheep with pon- 
 derous tails like those at the Cape of Good 
 Hope, and goats, from whose wool the Cash- 
 mere shawls are made. These animals were 
 considerably larger and higher than those of 
 Europe ; their coats thick, black, and appa- 
 rently coarse, until examined, when close to 
 the skin is discovered that fine soft wool, the 
 manufacture of which is held in such estimation 
 for shawls. A couple of these goats were pur- 
 chased in our camp for thirty rupees *. 
 
 * Most shawls are exported unwashed, and fresh from the 
 loom. They are better washed and packed at Umrutseer than 
 at Cashmere, where they are manufactured. Sixteen thousand 
 looms are supposed to be in constant motion there, each of 
 them giving employment to three men, whose wages are about 
 three pice a day. It is calculated that eighty thousand shawls 
 are disposed of annually. The wool from Tibett and Tartary 
 is the best, because the goat which produces it thrives better 
 there : twenty-four pounds weight of it sells at Cashmere, if of 
 the best sort, for twenty rupees ; an inferior and harsher kind 
 may be procured for half the money. The wool is spun by 
 women, and afterwards coloured. When the shawl is made, 
 it is carried to the custom-house and stamped, and a duty paid 
 agreeable to its texture — one fifth of the value. The persons 
 employed sit on a bench at the frame, sometimes fo\ir people 
 at each frame ; but if the shawl is a plain one, only two. A 
 fine shawl, with a pattern all over it, takes nearly a year in 
 making. The borders are worked with wooden needles, hav-
 
 188 
 
 From hence we continued our journey to 
 Juala'pore, a village immediately at the foot of 
 the Tibett mountains. Previous to reaching it, 
 w^e came to a place named Landoivra, another 
 palace belonging to the Rajah of Hurdwaar, who 
 had gone forward to receive us. We soon de- 
 scried him towering above his satellites, with an 
 offering of gold mohars on a napkin; when, 
 (agreeably to custom on such occasions,) de- 
 scending from our elephants, we touched the 
 gold mohars with the tips of three fingers of the 
 right hand, and made a salaam; upon which, 
 one of his servants took them away as before. 
 It is merely a form in the person offering, to de- 
 note that he acknowledges himself an inferior. 
 He then conducted us through a large paved 
 court, and up several stone steps, into the pa- 
 lace, where we were surprised to find chairs 
 placed round a large brazier filled with char- 
 coal. As soon as we were seated, several ser- 
 vants entered with wooden trays of about two 
 feet long and a foot and a half broad ; on some 
 of which were shawls, pieces of kinkob, muslin, 
 &c. ; on others, Persian fruits, fresh and pre- 
 served, — sweet cakes, biscuits, and otta of 
 roses. About five-and-twenty of these trays 
 were placed at our feet ; w];iile in the court be- 
 ing a separate needle for each colour. There is a head man 
 who superintends and describes the pattern. The rough side 
 of tile shawl is uppermost while manufacturing.
 
 189 
 
 fore the palace were paraded several Persian 
 and Arab horses, richly caparisoned, with silver 
 chains about their necks, and pendant orna- 
 ments of value. From this superabundance of 
 good things it was necessary, in order to avoid 
 giving offence, to take something. I took a 
 small square handkerchief, and one or two of 
 the gentlemen a Persian sword of no great va- 
 lue. The horses had their walk only to be ad- 
 mired ; after which they were quietly replaced 
 in the stable ; and mounting our elephants, we 
 bade this good gentleman adieu. 
 
 Native chiefs are magnificent, and even pro- 
 fuse in their presents to Europeans. We might 
 have given all we saw in charge of our servants, 
 to take away, if we had wished it, and he would 
 have been highly gratified, as he would have 
 considered himself entitled to expect from us 
 double its value in return, and would not have 
 suffered much time to elapse without asking 
 some favour. I once accepted a Persian cat, 
 and in a few days after received a request from 
 the Bibbee Saheb to send her a pair of white 
 shawls. 
 
 Travelling over a vile road to Paharpore, we 
 gradually approached the mountains, and reached 
 Juallapore to a late breakfast. This being the 
 entrance of the Moradabad district, we were met 
 by its judge and collector with their separate 
 suite. Juallapore is eighteen miles from Mung- 
 t
 
 190 
 
 lore: the last nine miles was through an inhos- 
 pitable-looking jungle, where tigers are said to 
 abound. We saw plenty of florican, the black- 
 spotted feathered partridge, hog deer, &c. 
 Where the latter are found, there are always 
 tigers. 
 
 The following morning some of our party, 
 myself among the number, made an excursion 
 to the celebrated bathing-place of Hurdoar, 
 where we fell in with a party of Siehs of high 
 rank : they consisted of the Rame Mutaab Kour, 
 wife of Rajah Rungeet Sing; Rajah Sahib Smg, 
 of Patialah, and his wife; Rajahs Bodge Sing 
 and Burgwaan Sing. These people paid us every 
 mark of respect and politeness : they were at- 
 tended by a numerous retinue. 
 
 The town of Hurdoar is on a ^bank of the 
 Ganges, about eight miles from Juallapore: it is 
 built chiefly of stone, and stands at the foot of 
 an immense range of mountains covered with 
 luxuriant verdure. The Ganges here divides 
 into several limpid streams, which, after running 
 for several miles over a bed of large smooth 
 stones, unite in 07ie, which measures twelve 
 hundred yards across. Its source is near Pun- 
 niallee, on the south-east side of HemaUah. 
 
 The name Hurdoar is composed from Hur, 
 the name of a Hindoo saints (who made this his 
 place of ablution, and eventually his residence,) 
 and doar, which in the Shanscrit language means 
 
 3
 
 191 
 
 a door ; by which the natives understood that 
 the way or door to this saint's favour, was by 
 frequenting the place that he had named and pa- 
 tronized. As he had a high character for sanc- 
 tity, and was withal a shrewd, clever man, it 
 soon became a place of great celebrity, and 
 continues so to the present time. There is an 
 annual fair held here to commemorate the anni- 
 versary of this man's birth, at which it is com- 
 puted there assemble no fewer than a million of 
 souls*. The extent of ground occupied by 
 these, in one continued throng, is generally 
 from three to four kosslf. The grand bathing-day 
 takes place on or about the 11th of April, de- 
 pendant however on the state of the moon J. 
 
 * The surest way of founding a village in this country is by 
 setting down a fakeer on the spot, who immediately builds a 
 mud hut, hoists a small red flag upon a pole, and the following 
 year appears a populous village. 
 
 t A koss is about one mile and a half English. 
 
 X A pilgrimage to Mecca is also considered necessary to 
 constitute the character of a good Mussulman, and is considered 
 highly meritorious. These pilgrims support themselves chiefly 
 by alms on the journey ; and you not unfrequently see the 
 most emaciated objects lying dead by the road side, particu- 
 larly in a thinly inhabited country, as in the new road from 
 Calcutta to the upper provinces of Hindostan. I counted five 
 myself on that road, who appeared lying flat on their faces, 
 with scarcely any clothing on them, and the bones almost 
 starting through the skin. There is an institution at Mecca 
 for pilgrims, provided for by the will of Ahmed Shah ; so that 
 while they remain there, they are very well oflp.
 
 192 
 
 Tunkal is a town about three miles from ////?'- 
 doar, where five elegant houses have been built 
 in the oriental style, with a profusion of Hindoo 
 emblems and decorations, said to have cost 
 thirty thousand rupees each. Two of them be- 
 long to rich bankers at Naugreedabad ; one to 
 Rajah Nyn Sing, who lives in the neighbour- 
 hood of Muratt ; one to Goorah Khan ; and one 
 to Ramdial Sing, Rajah of Hurdoar. They were 
 all built within the last seven years. Hindoos 
 always plaister the inside of their houses with 
 cow-dung, which old women and children are 
 constantly employed picking up. They make it 
 into flat cakes with their hands, and stick them 
 on the outer walls of cottages to dry : they then 
 pile them up, under shelter, for use. The walls 
 and terraces, when perfectly finished, have the 
 appearance of stucco, without any unpleasant 
 smell at all. A general officer in the Company's 
 service brought to England, some years ago, a 
 Hindoo lady as his wife, and left her in hand- 
 some lodgings, in London, while he went to vi- 
 sit his friends in Scotland. The first thing she 
 did, after he was gone, was to purchase a cow, 
 and have her brought into the drawing-room. 
 The hostess expostulated ; but the general's 
 lady assured her that if any damage was done, 
 it should all be paid for, and she was pacified ; 
 but when, a few days afterwards, the house- 
 maid told her mistress that all the cleaning in
 
 193 
 
 the world would never get the cow-dung off the 
 gilt mouldings, she was petrified ! concluding 
 of course that the lady must be mad, she wrote 
 off to the general by tha;t evening's post. 
 
 Another common practice among Hindoos, is, 
 that of exposing different kinds of grain on 
 sheets, before their houses, to dry in the sun ; 
 so that the whole village looks like a bazaar. 
 
 The Brahmins who reside at Hurdoar per- 
 suade their followers, that by performing their 
 ablutions, and making offerings to the Ganges at 
 that place, they instantly become purified of 
 their former sins. I hope I am not uncharita- 
 ble; but could not help suspecting, that some 
 of my party would not have been sorry to be so 
 easily rid of theirs. 
 
 We saw here some pilgrims who had travelled 
 all the way from Juggernaut, in the bay of Ben- 
 gal, (some thousand miles,) to perform a pe- 
 nance. They were at this time just setting out 
 on their return, laden with baskets full of small 
 bottles filled with sanctified water, for the puri- 
 fication of those who were unable to come so 
 far. 
 
 The road between Juallapore and Tunkal may 
 be justly compared to those of the New Forest 
 in Hampshire, but still more beautiful from its 
 vicinity to the mountains. After rambling about, 
 (until we were tired,) viewing a number of de- 
 
 o
 
 194 
 
 scents by stone steps, with their appropriate de- 
 corations, that conducted votaries to the sacred 
 stream, (each guarded by one or more fakeers,) 
 we returned to our encampment infinitely grati- 
 fied by the trip. 
 
 The commissioners being occupied by busi- 
 ness, we did not quit Juallapore until the 12th, 
 which afforded me an opportunity of viewing 
 some waterfalls at Angennyy a place exactly op- 
 posite Tunkal, on the other side of the river. Six 
 persons started on four elephants : three spare 
 elephants having been pushed forward to sound 
 the bed of the river, (as we proposed fording 
 it,) and to clear the jungle on the other side. 
 The stream where we crossed was about seven 
 feet deep, rapid, and perfectly clear, so that 
 we could distinguish a bottom of large round 
 stones, which were so slippery that it was a ser- 
 vice of danger to pass over them. The ele- 
 phants trembled at every step, and supported 
 each other by heeling to it, as ships do with a 
 wind on their quarter. It must have been a cu- 
 rious spectacle from the opposite shore to see 
 four elephants wedged like a wall together, with 
 people on their backs, all stepping cautiously 
 as if aware of danger. We crossed a little above 
 the Falls, which are stated to extend for half a 
 mile, and reach fairly across the river. Their 
 descent in many places does not exceed eight or 
 nine feet. We had a complete view of them
 
 195 
 
 from Aiigenny, and were delighted by the 
 sound of dashing waters, and view of stupen- 
 dous mountains clothed with the stately fir* 
 and spreading bamboo, while the sweet war- 
 blers of the wood strained their harmonious 
 throats to bid us welcome. Our advanced guard 
 having shot some jungle cocks t, we had them 
 broiled; and they proved a welcome addition 
 (being young and finely flavoured) to the cold 
 provisions we had brought. After regaling our- 
 selves and resting the elephants, we re-mounted, 
 in order to explore the country, and entered a 
 bamboo jungle, the branches of which were so 
 entwined that the spare elephants were abso- 
 lutely necessary to force a passage for us. It 
 was really wonderful to see with what dexterity 
 these animals twisted oft* large branches with 
 their trunks ; or, at the instigation of their 
 driver, tore up whole trees by the roots. Af- 
 ter buffeting through in this way for about an 
 hour, we came to a charming valley between 
 two ridges of hills, whose summits seemed to 
 touch the clouds. Trees and shrubs of various 
 foliage adorned their almost perpendicular sides, 
 while the meandering Ganges, in distant mur- 
 murs, died on the listening ear. Having made 
 a circuit of some miles through this delightful 
 
 * This is the only place in Hindostan where the fir tree is 
 found in perfection. 
 
 f Like English cocks and hens, only wild, 
 o 2
 
 196 
 
 country, we re-crossed the Ganges in boats, and 
 reached our encampment before it grew dark. 
 
 The next morning was fixed on for pursuing 
 our journey. I accompanied the judge of Mo- 
 radahad (whose district we were just entering) 
 on his elephant through thick grass jungles, 
 higher than the animal on which we rode, al- 
 though he measured fourteen feet. Our ad- 
 vanced party fell in with a wild elephant, from 
 whom they defended themselves by collecting 
 round a tree and firing at him, then setting up 
 a hideous yell, which at length frightened him 
 away. 
 
 For eighteen miles not the slightest trace of a 
 road was perceptible ; but the guides persisted 
 that they were going right, and J)rought us to a 
 village named Kurranpore. Here the inhabitants 
 were so alarmed at seeing us, that they fled and 
 hid themselves in a grass jungle. A little be- 
 yond this village is a morass, only rendered 
 passable by loads of reed and bamboo that our 
 people had spread the day before to form some- 
 thing like a road. The elephants did not seem 
 at all inclined to cross it, nor do I think it was 
 altogether safe, but fortunately no accident oc- 
 curred. 
 
 Soon after this we reached a part of the 
 Ganges where there is a ferry, and found excel- 
 lent boats with platforms for the conveyance of 
 our carriages and horses, waggons, bullocks,
 
 197 
 
 Sec. Sec. This place is named Bhynee Ghattalu 
 Here we quitted what is termed the country of 
 the Doo-ab, and entered that of the Pungaab, ot 
 junction of five rivers, inhabited by a people 
 called the Rohillas. The banks of the Ganges, 
 on the Rohilcund side, are immensely steep ; and 
 the soil, a deep loose sand, which so consider- 
 ably delayed the baggage, that many of the 
 gentlemen's tents were not pitched until quite 
 late at night. Our encampment extended two 
 miles, over a plain that separated the villages of 
 Allum Serai and Nagul. From hence we passed 
 over a vile road through a jungle of brush- wood 
 and low stumps, (called the dak shrub,) besides 
 two or three streams knee-deep for the horses, 
 to a place called Nugeebabad, which is, being in- 
 terpreted, " City of great Men." Our tents were 
 pitched near the garden-house of Sultan Khan, 
 son of the Nawaab Nugeeb id Dowlah, whose tomb 
 we visited in the course of the morning. It 
 stands surrounded by trees that completely shade 
 the building, and is encompassed by a brick 
 wall. The tombs of him, and his favourite wife 
 are united under a slab of stone, covered with 
 a smooth white paste called chunam, which bears 
 a high polish, and at a distance looks like ala- 
 baster. They are raised considerably off the 
 ground by a terrace of flag-stones. On three 
 sides of this terrace are colonnades neatly 
 painted with emblematical devices ; the fourth
 
 198 
 
 is divided into three small apartments for devo- 
 tion, terminating in as many cupolas. This is 
 the first place, after leaving the Persian terri- 
 tory, where bales of shawl and other Persian 
 merchandise are examined, and a duty levied on 
 them by the East India Company. It is the 
 abode of many merchants, who enrich them- 
 selves by purchasing wholesale, and retailing 
 them into the provinces. Large plantations of 
 sugar-cane were observable throughout this part 
 of India, and mills for extracting the juice in 
 order to make it into sugar, to be seen in every 
 village. Those little neat baskets of split bam- 
 boo, in which pilgrims carry the Ganges water, 
 are manufactured here, and find a brisk sale. I 
 purchased some shawls and (under such circum- 
 stances that I could not avoid it) a slave boy ! 
 The circumstances were these : — A poor debili- 
 tated woman, with an infant in her arms, and 
 this child, (about four years of age,) seated 
 themselves at the door of our tent, and would 
 not be removed. Thinking she was a beggar, 
 I sent her a few pice ; upon which she said that 
 she came to sell her child, and not to solicit 
 picCy for they would do her no good. I then 
 went out and remonstrated with her upon the 
 cruelty of such an act ; told her that if she did, 
 there was not the smallest chance of her ever 
 seeing him again — in short, said all I could to 
 work upon her feelings as a mother, and endea-
 
 199 
 
 vour to turn her from her purpose ; but still she 
 persevered, and implored me with tears to take 
 him. She had a numerous family, she said, who 
 must all starve unless she could get money by 
 this means to pay the bunyah. The price she 
 asked for the boy was thirty-six rupees, the half 
 of which she owed for food. Her husband, she 
 said, was a cripple, and could not work. I sent 
 a person with her to ascertain the truth of this 
 statement, and finding that the woman had not 
 deceived me, I paid the money and received 
 the boy. Some victuals that was placed before 
 them they eagerly devoured. The child re- 
 mained without a murmur, in hopes of another 
 meal when hungry ; and the mother departed 
 happy, in the belief that her boy was provided 
 for. 
 
 This traffic, so repugnant to English ideas, 
 exists only near the hills, where the population 
 is so great, and the means of providing for it 
 so small, that unless purchasers could be found 
 for the children, half of them must starve. This 
 boy had quite the countenance of a Chinese 
 Tartar, with immense large eyes. The first 
 thing I did was to have him bathed and clothed, 
 for he was perfectly naked. He did not like 
 being dressed at all, and for a long time took 
 every opportunity of slipping himself out of it. 
 
 In the evening we mounted our elephant, and 
 rode about a mile to inspect a large fort, built
 
 200 
 
 of hewn stone, within which Nugeeb ul Dowlak 
 had stood a siege by Shaw Allimi, Emperor of 
 Delhi, at that time denominated ** The Great 
 Mogul.'' This fort is at present untenanted, 
 but is capable of being made a very strong in- 
 trenchment, large enough to contain a garrison 
 of three thousand men, although for the actual 
 defence of it perhaps five hundred might suffice. 
 It is situated on an extensive plain, surrounded 
 by a strong wall and two deep ditches, supplied 
 from a reservoir within the fort.
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 On the following day we halted at Nugeenahy 
 about fifteen miles from our last encampment. 
 On the road we forded several small streams, 
 one of which (the Gongon) is frequently impas- 
 sable in the rainy season for many hours, being 
 at that time both deep and rapid. We were 
 told of a tiger that had been seen of late near 
 this river, but he did not favour us with his ap- 
 pearance. A gentleman known to some of our 
 party, had, in passing about two months before, 
 the good fortune to kill one on this very spot. 
 The small town of Nugeeiia contains eighteen 
 thousand inhabitants : it is celebrated for the 
 manufacture of blankets, and coloured glass. The 
 Nawaab's residence is at Arampore, which we 
 passed close by. In the square space in front 
 of the palace, we observed a number of his at- 
 tendants — fair, handsome men, sitting or loung- 
 ing upon charpiahs, with a degree of independence 
 that surprised us. These Rohillah chiefs are not 
 very partial to the English. 
 
 From Nugeenah to Dawmpore (where we found 
 our tents) is about fourteen miles. Our road 
 lay over a level country, well wooded and wa- 
 tered, the cultivation in many parts reaching to
 
 202 
 
 the road side. Dawmpore is famous for the ma- 
 nufacture of pistols, swords, gun-barrels, and 
 matchlocks. 
 
 From Dawmpore, by way of Soharra to Sais- 
 porcy is, without any exception, the wildest 
 fifteen miles of country I ever travelled : it is 
 covered with bushes, the haunt of ferocious ani- 
 mals ; through it runs a deep sandy road. The 
 gentleman who was driving me in his curricle, 
 ^told me that he had killed five tigers on the spot 
 we then were, not more than a month before, 
 and a most singular circumstance occurred. He 
 had gone on to the village afterwards, where he 
 had left his gig, in order to return home in it, 
 when passing a bush where one of the tigers 
 were found that he had shot, a tigress darted 
 out and (what is very unusual) pursued him so 
 swiftly, that notwithstanding he put his horse 
 at speed, he had the greatest difficulty to es- 
 cape her. The only reason he could imagine 
 for her being so furious was, that it might have 
 been one of her cubs which he had destroyed. 
 
 At a place called Soondree, about fourteen 
 miles farther, the country appeared well culti- 
 vated, which is rather astonishing in such a 
 neighbourhood, and the road tolerably good. 
 We passed through two or three groves of the 
 sweet-scented bauble tree, whose odour resem- 
 bles that of mignionette. 
 
 On the 21st we quitted Soondree, and reached
 
 203 
 
 the judge's house at Moradabad to breakfast. 
 The city of Moradabad stands m the centre of 
 the most park-like country imaginable. Among 
 the hills, not far from it, the apple, cherry, 
 walnut, arbutus, and beech trees, flourish ; and 
 plenty of wild strawberries are found in the 
 woods. The neighbouring gardens produce 
 peaches, apples, strawberries, pine apples, and 
 all sorts of vegetable in the highest perfection. 
 The culture of potatoes is particularly encou- 
 raged in this district, and succeeds remarkably 
 well. In seasons when there is a scarcity of 
 grain, (which frequently happens,) this vegeta- 
 ble may prove a most valuable substitute, and 
 probably the introduction of it into India, be 
 the means of saving many thousand lives. Al- 
 though first cultivated by its European inha- 
 bitants, the natives are all fond of it, and eat it 
 without scruple. 
 
 The houses at this place are in general large, 
 and chiefly built of brick. The one in which 
 the judge resides is a perfect palace ; indeed it 
 was formerly the palace of a Rohillah chief. It 
 is surrounded by an out-work of embrasures, 
 bastions, &c. ; is situated outside the city, on 
 a space sufficiently large to encamp an army; 
 and was once attacked by the force under Ameer 
 Khan, (when united with Holkar, he threatened 
 to exterminate the Europeans,) but gallantly 
 and successfully defended by Mr. Leicester, at
 
 204 
 
 that time judge of the district, until troops ar- 
 rived to his relief. 
 
 There are six principal squares, in which all 
 the houses are of brick, and one square in the 
 centre of the city, not only spacious, but mag- 
 nificent. It has within it seventy gates, the 
 whole being surrounded by a high brick wall. 
 The streets, contrary to the plan usually pur- 
 sued in this country, are wide. No manufac- 
 ture is carried on here ; but the inhabitants are 
 celebrated as being excellent mechanics, parti- 
 cularly in the upholstering line. It is a station 
 for one battalion of Seapoys, and a healthy si- 
 tuation at all seasons of the year. The river 
 Ram Gonga runs parallel with the north-east 
 side of the city, and supplies the inhabitants 
 with good water and plenty of excellent fish. 
 
 We remained here until the 28th, when the 
 commissioners took their departure for Futteh 
 Ghur. We forded the Gongon in carriages, near 
 the village of Syfret. Our road lay the whole 
 way through fields of green barley or wheat, 
 bounded on the right by groves of mango trees ; 
 while the left presented a pleasing and extensive 
 prospect. A large estate, belonging to the 
 principal zemeendar, wore the semblance of great 
 security and comfort. Passing along a fine hard 
 road and level country, richly cultivated, we 
 saw a place named Ryepore, near the large town 
 of Secrowly, embosomed in gardens- Our tents
 
 205 
 
 were pitched on an extensive level of turf, sur- 
 rounded by trees of various kinds. Villages in 
 the Rohillah country are in no instance sur- 
 rounded by a wall, as in the districts of Coel, 
 Delhi, Meratt, and Agi^a; (in fact, throughout 
 the Douab ;) neither have the Rohillas any fences 
 to their fields. Sugar-cane, wheat, and barley, 
 appear to be the chief productions of their 
 country. 
 
 Neither the strength of our party, nor the 
 sentries which at all times paraded before the 
 doors of our tents, could at all times secure us 
 from thieves ; but we found a complete guard, 
 at this place, in the person of a small terrier 
 that had been fastened to one of the bed-posts. 
 About the middle of the night, when all was 
 quiet in the camp, (and the sentries, I suspect, 
 asleep,) this little animal became very restless, 
 then barked violently, and at length broke from 
 his fastening, and made a dart towards the oppo- 
 site wall of the tent. The glimmering light of 
 the lamp discovered to me at the moment two 
 large staring eyes, glaring frightfully round in 
 search of plunder. The dog could not get at the 
 man ; but the alarm was given, and the intended 
 thief secured : he had nothing on but a cummer- 
 bund * ; yet in that were secreted two knives, 
 sharpened at either edge. This place is named 
 Shoepore. 
 
 * Cummerbund is a breadth of cloth wound round the loins.
 
 206 
 
 From hence we continued our route over a 
 fertile country, with occasional inequalities 
 scarcely deserving the name of hills, to Alii 
 Gunge. The cultivation reached the road on 
 either side, interrupted only by occasional groves 
 of the mango tree, through which we drove. On 
 the other side Alii Gunge, the soil becomes 
 sandy, and the face of the country assumes a 
 totally different appearance. After crossing a 
 small river, we entered what is called a jow 
 jungle, much resembling the birch wood in Eng- 
 land, of which brooms are made. This conti- 
 nued for about three miles, and conducted us 
 to the banks of the Ram Gonga, where ferry- 
 boats had been prepared, but, as it was then 
 practicable, I preferred crossing it on my ele- 
 phant. An elephant is the only animal, except 
 a camel, that can ford this river, even when it 
 is at the lowest. In the rainy season it would 
 be impracticable to ford it at all, as it is then 
 both deep and rapid. 
 
 From hence we drove in a curricle to Bar- 
 reilli, a city inhabited entirely by Mussulmen ; 
 it has been celebrated in history, and is still of 
 considerable consequence. It stands on an ex- 
 tensive plain, bounded on every side by lofty 
 trees. The soil is deep and sandy ; the city itself 
 irregularly built; and its inhabitants, chiefly Ro- 
 hillasy are- so very uncivil, (to give the mildest 
 term to their demeanour,) that no European can 
 enter it without the risk of being insulted. These
 
 207 
 
 people possess the pride of ancestry, in a pre- 
 eminent degree. The city swarms with the in- 
 solent, proud descendants of Haffiz Rainiit, chief 
 of the Rohillas: he was killed in battle at this 
 place by Sujah Dowlah, Nawaab of Lucknow, 
 at the head of the forces belonging to the Em- 
 peror of Delhi, who, it is reported, owed his 
 success on this occasion to the firmness of his 
 English allies under the command of Colonel 
 Champion *. This circumstance is still fresh in 
 the remembrance of the natives, whose venera- 
 tion for their chief is very great ; and their de- 
 testation of the English, from the part they took 
 against him, proportionably so. 
 
 The city of Bareilly was founded by Haffiz 
 Ramut ; and his remains are interred there, be- 
 neath a splendid monument erected to his me- 
 mory. The inhabitants of this city are always 
 ripe for rebellion, but are incapable of much re- 
 sistance, having neither wall, nor ditch, to protect 
 them. Among these are a few merchants who 
 trade in drugs and timber, from the neighbour- 
 ing hills, to whom the support of the English 
 Government is of consequence. It is what is 
 called a Sudder Station, having a court of cir- 
 cuit, a court of appeal, a judge of the district, 
 collector, chaplain, surgeon, &c. with one bat- 
 talion of Seapoys. In a court of circuit there 
 
 * See Hamilton's Account of the Rohillah War.
 
 208 
 
 are two judges, in a court of appeal three. The 
 Seapoy cantonment is about a mile from the 
 city. The houses of the civilians occupy an 
 open space between the city apd the canton- 
 ment : near them stands a fortified jail. 
 
 We passed nearly a month at Bareilly. It is 
 almost the only place in India where the nights 
 throughout the year are never oppressively hot. 
 This place is famous for carpenters' work of all 
 descriptions. They imitate the painting on 
 China trunks, boxes, tables, &c. so well, that 
 it is scarcely possible to distinguish them from 
 the original articles. Their chairs are beauti- 
 fully varnished, and tastefully shaped. The 
 Bareilly furniture is indeed justly estimated 
 throughout the provinces, and produces a fund 
 of wealth to the manufacturers. The facility 
 with which they get timber from the hills, great- 
 ly assists their views. From hence to P Hi- 
 bete, which lies at the foot of those hills from 
 whence the timber is brought, is only two days' 
 journey. Being so near these hills, we were 
 desirous of visiting the source of the Gogra, 
 which river takes its rise from thence ; and ac- 
 cordingly, on the 1st of March, sent forward 
 our camp equipage. The two first marches were 
 unmarked by any particular occurrence : the 
 country pver which we travelled was flat and 
 uninteresting ; but on the third day we entered 
 a beautiful and extensive forest of sissoa trees.
 
 209 
 
 infested by every wild animal that the country 
 produces, notwithstanding, the natives appeared 
 to live in it without any visible means of de- 
 fence. Curious to know the reason of such ap- 
 parent apathy, I learned that they were all 
 Predestinarians, and often saw their cattle and 
 children carried off without an attempt to res- 
 cue them. " Their time is come," they say, 
 " and if you should succeed in saving them 
 from the threatened danger, another, still more 
 terrible, is sure to be at hand." 
 
 The second day, in passing through this im- 
 mense forest, we met travellers whose counte- 
 nances bespoke them of a different race. They 
 proved indeed to be inhabitants of the second, 
 and third range of mountains, bringing their 
 merchandize, chiefly drugs, to an annual fair, 
 held about this time, at a village named Bellary, 
 on the outskirts of the forest. Assafcetida is a 
 principal article of traffic, as it is a favourite 
 ingredient in the cookery, both of Hindoo and 
 Mussulman. It is a low bush, with long leaves, 
 that are cut off near the stem, when a milky 
 juice exudes, which hardens gradually, like 
 opium, but loses its virtue, if left long exposed 
 to the sun. The people I am speaking of, are 
 of a bright copper colour ; their stature is short 
 and thick ; they have broad faces, flat noses, 
 small eyes, scarcely any beard, and no mus- 
 tachios. They do not wear turbans like the
 
 210 
 
 natives of Hindostan, but fasten their hair in a 
 bunch on the top of the head, with a long black 
 bodkin. In appearance they strongly resemble 
 those figures often seen on old china jars ; and, 
 living on the borders of Tartary, we may justly 
 conclude them of Chinese extraction. Nothing 
 could exceed the beautiful wild scenery of this 
 day's march. We continued to ride through a 
 thick forest, intersected by innumerable running 
 streams, clear as the purest crystal, over which 
 was occasionally thrown a tree in full foliage, to 
 answer the purpose of a bridge. The approach 
 to one of these streams was invariably marked 
 by the feet of wild animals. On one part of 
 o<ur route, which lay along the edge of a steep 
 precipice, we distinguished the footsteps of wild 
 elephants, as if a drove had lately passed, and 
 this appearance continued for more than a mile. 
 Our guide informed us that a large male ele- 
 phant had been occasionally seen, and was re- 
 cognised, on this path, for many years ; fre- 
 quently attacking, and, of course, destroying, 
 the unprotected traveller. As we were armed, 
 and strongly guarded, I felt no apprehension, 
 but could not avoid being anxious for the arrival 
 of the servants that were to follow. Nature 
 must surely have regarded with peculiar com- 
 placency this most enchanting spot. A rich 
 valley, reposing beneath a majestic acclivity, 
 covered with herds of cattle, grazing on its velvet
 
 211 
 
 pasture, under the shade of spreading branches, 
 with here and there a cluster of peasants' huts, 
 were its peculiar characteristics. All appeared 
 tranquil as in the midst of the most civilized 
 country, nor seemed to fear their lordly neigh- 
 bours. Our breakfast tent was pitched a short 
 distance beyond this, on the banks of the 
 Gogra. The mountains, although in fact, at a 
 great distance from us, appeared but just on the 
 opposite shore, forming one of the finest land- 
 scapes I ever beheld. When the heat of the 
 day had a little subsided, we sallied forth to 
 enjoy the prospect, occasionally seating our- 
 selves on a projecting rock. The moon was 
 near the full, and arose from behind the moun- 
 tains superlatively bright. To what sublimity 
 of idea did their vast summits, illumined by her 
 rays, give rise, while their more humble bases 
 were veiled in obscurity ! 
 
 Next morning, we pursued our way, and 
 safely arrived at Behrmundeo. Our tents were 
 pitched on a plain of the liveliest verdure. In 
 front ran the Gogra, slowly meandering over its 
 pebbly bed, bounded on the opposite shore by 
 almost perpendicular mountains. The sides of 
 these mountains clothed with trees of vari- 
 ous foliage, many of them in full blossom, im- 
 pregnating the air with the most exhilarating 
 odours ; while not more than a hundred yards 
 from us, lay the forest, filled with game of every 
 
 p 2
 
 212 
 
 kind. The few native inhabitants of this coun- 
 try, are solely occupied in tending their herds 
 and cutting wood. 
 
 The river supplies them with fish and wild 
 fowl in abundance, both which they eat without 
 scruple. Soon after breakfast, our Hindoo ser- 
 vants asked permission to pay their obeisance to 
 the deity who is said to preside there. I con- 
 fess my curiosity was raised to see a spot so 
 celebrated : at sun-set, therefore, on the fol- 
 lowing evening, we repaired thither, when 
 instead of a temple, as I expected, decorated 
 with all the emblems of Hindoo superstition, 
 I beheld only a pedestal of granite, about five 
 feet high, with three rusty iron spikes of a foot 
 long stuck into the top of it. These were orna- 
 mented with a few faded flowers and boughs, 
 the pious offerings of our people, while at its 
 base were seated three squalid unfortunate 
 children of a mendicant fakeer, who, with 
 mouths and eyes wide open, appeared like hor- 
 rible fixtures to the place. Some gentleinen, we 
 were told, had been at this place before, but 
 never any lady. Finding so little attraction here, 
 we walked along the sands, which as the river 
 subsides, are left dry, and soon become hard, 
 for a considerable distance. Large fragments 
 of rock occasionally interrupted our progress. 
 Near these were a cluster of deserted huts, that 
 our guide informed us, were occupied at a par-
 
 213 
 
 ticular season of the year, by the hill people, 
 whose mountain dwellings, he pointed out to us, 
 at an immense distance on the summits, and 
 between the fissures of the opposite range. 
 They came down, he said, to sift the sand for gold 
 dust, lumps of which were frequently found 
 there, as large as a common sized hazel-nut. 
 This forms another part of their traffic with 
 Bellary, the village before-mentioned, and on the 
 approach of summer, these people return to 
 their snowy dwellings. We now seemed to 
 have reached the uttermost parts of the earth. 
 Huge snow-capped mountains, frowning in aw- 
 ful majesty, formed an amphitheatre around us, 
 from one of which (about the centre of this vast 
 space) the river takes its rise. Not a human 
 being to be seen or heard. It was stillness all. 
 Oh, had I but the pen of Young or Milton to 
 describe it! The delightful reverie into which 
 I had fallen, was at length interrupted by my 
 companion, who having strayed some little dis- 
 tance, returned to point out to me amongst the 
 varied foliage, that of the fir, oak, and ash. 
 On returning to the tents, I mentioned having 
 seen them, which induced some of the gentle- 
 men of our party to ascend these mountains, 
 and explore. I wished much to have ac- 
 companied them, but was persuaded to relin- 
 quish the attempt, as it could only be accom- 
 plished on foot, and, of course, with very great
 
 214 
 
 fatigue. Two only of the gentlemen reached 
 the summit, and they passed the night in a hut 
 that appeared not to have been long untenanted. 
 After traversing a beautiful green sward, for 
 about a quarter of a mile, along the bank of the 
 river, they gradually ascended to the height of 
 forty feet, and found themselves on a flat culti- 
 vated space. From hence they proceeded along 
 a winding path, occasionally impeded by moun- 
 tain rills, near which they observed innumerable 
 plants of extraordinary beauty * ; also the fern, 
 ivy, and common dock-plant of England, and 
 they had no doubt, from the nature of the soil, 
 but that violets and primroses might have been 
 found, had there been time to search for them. 
 Sometimes they came to a beautiful valley in- 
 terspersed with trees and huts, where the wild 
 strawberry, raspberry, barberry, and hawthorn, 
 flourished in abundance ; at others, they were 
 obliged to be assisted by their guides up per- 
 pendicular heights of six or seven feet. Near 
 one of these, they were led to expect a moun- 
 tain torrent of some magnitude, but were dis- 
 appointed, from having missed the turn which 
 would have led them to it ; it proved to be four 
 hours' walk beyond the village at which they 
 halted for the night. Two beautifully picturesque 
 
 * Some of them they brought to me, and I succeeded in 
 propagating them, but they degenerated as well in colour as in 
 size.
 
 215 
 
 valleys conducted them to an acclivity covered 
 with the pine, fir, and mountain ash, intermixed 
 w^ith those trees which are peculiar to the more 
 southern provinces. After toiling for four hours, 
 over a path scarcely wide enough for one person, 
 sometimes bordering on a precipice of tremen- 
 dous depth ; they reached the summit, on which 
 they found a deserted village. The inhabitants, 
 it was concluded, were gone to the fair at Bellary. 
 A friend of ours, thinking it might prove a good 
 speculation, ordered two or three hundred small 
 caps of scarlet cloth to be sent there the following 
 year, and exposed for sale. No sooner were these 
 produced, than the hill people crowded round 
 and evinced the strongest anxiety to possess 
 them. So rapid was the exchange for drugs 
 effected, and so clamorous did they become 
 when all were nearly disposed of, that the 
 vender was actually obliged, by stratagem, to 
 make good his retreat. 
 
 But to rerurn to my narrative. These un- 
 suspicious people, having left their habitations 
 open, our gentlemen entered one of the huts, in 
 order to take some refreshment and repose ; but 
 on calling for the provisions, what was their 
 dismay to find that none were brought, although 
 at least a dozen people had started with them. 
 A bottle of brandy had been given to one of 
 the guides, but by some accident he had 
 broken it. In fact, neither cold meat nor
 
 216 
 
 brandy had arrived. They had then no other 
 resource left, than to kindle a few sticks, in 
 order to warm themselves, and determine to be 
 as comfortable as circumstances would permit. 
 So, dismissing the guides, and barricading the 
 door with logs of wood, they sought shelter from 
 hunger in the arms of Morpheus; thus they 
 might probably have remained some hours in- 
 sensible to its attack, had not an alarm of a dif- 
 ferent nature occurred, which filled their minds 
 at the moment, with a sentiment not very imlike 
 fear. About midnight, the door of the hut was 
 forcibly assailed, accompanied by voices who 
 loudly demanded entrance. The wind had risen 
 almost to a hurricane, and whistling through 
 the interstices of their miserable dwelling, ren- 
 dered quite unintelligible the language of the 
 intruders. Having neglected to provide them- 
 selves either with fire-arms, or side-arms, they 
 debated whether it would be more prudent ra- 
 ther to make the door more secure than to open 
 it. One of the gentlemen, however, suggested 
 that they might still be unable to defend them- 
 selves for any time ; nor could they entertain 
 the slightest hopes of succour from their guides, 
 of whom it was most probable they should see 
 no more ; for, upon the least appearance of 
 hostility, these men generally decamp. It was 
 at length determined, that they should each 
 take a log of wood in his hand, and boldly open
 
 217 
 
 the door ; when, ridiculous to tell, instead of 
 the abuse and blows they were prepared to 
 parry, a party greeted them who had been sent 
 by us with some good cheer. For we had learned 
 after they were gone, that the provisions they 
 intended to have taken with them, had been in- 
 advertently left behind. No longer grumbling 
 at the interruption to their slumbers, they seated 
 themselves upon the ground, and never (as they 
 afterwards assured me) made a more comfort- 
 able meal. These huts are composed of pieces 
 from the rock, cemented together by clay, and 
 thickly thatched. At dawn of day, our gentle- 
 men began to descend, which they found as 
 tedious, and more terrific than their labours on 
 the preceding day. One of them had the curio- 
 sity to measure the height of the mountain, and 
 found it from its base to the summit, exactly 
 four thousand feet*. 
 
 The following day was passed in exploring 
 the country in a contrary direction. Game of 
 every description rose almost beneath our ele- 
 phants' feet ; amongst which were a great num- 
 ber of the black feathered partridge, equally as 
 fine in flavour as beautiful in plumage ; they 
 are shaped like those of England, but rather 
 
 * The cattle bred in these hills are remarkably small, and 
 nice eating ; the meat being very fat, and the grain extremely 
 fine. The bullocks in general are about the size of an English 
 calf.
 
 218 
 
 larger : these and quails seemed to abound in 
 the vallies where we were. 
 
 One night, while we remained here, a cir- 
 cumstance of rather an alarming nature occurred, 
 but, providentially, was not succeeded by any 
 serious consequence. The roar of a wild ele- 
 phant near our camp, threw every thing into 
 confusion, and we had reason to fear his nearer 
 approach, as one of the female elephants that 
 conveyed the tents was answering to his call, 
 and all efforts to silence her were vain. It was 
 supposed that she might, some time or other, 
 have been used as a decoy elephant, for our 
 people were obliged to chain her round a large 
 tree to prevent her running off, and also to 
 kindle fires round the camp to keep him at a 
 distance. But our perils were not destined to 
 end here ; as, before the fires were fairly lighted, 
 a hungry tiger sprung on one of the bullocks 
 and dragged him off. It was too dark to distin- 
 guish the tiger, but his growl could not be mis- 
 taken, which added to the screech of the ele- 
 phants, made a most terrific concert. In vain 
 did the gentlemen assure me, that the constant 
 firing of musketry kept up by our attendants, 
 would secure us from harm ; I trembled at every 
 joint, and most heartily wished myself any 
 where else ; nor were my fears dissipated until 
 the return of day-light. 
 
 We next morning bid adieu to this haunt of
 
 219 
 
 our formidable enemies, and encamped about 
 fourteen miles distant ; where, free from shade, 
 the sun was intensely hot, and the nights ex- 
 tremely cold. While taking our usual ramble 
 one evening, we got intelligence of some neigh- 
 bours that might have proved still more dan- 
 gerous than those w^e had quitted. A party of 
 five hundred Mmoattys had pitched their tents 
 about a mile and a half from ours, and were 
 reported to have plundered several villages in 
 their route. These are a description of robbers, 
 something like gypsies, and very desperate. As 
 we were not ambitious of becoming acquainted 
 with them, no time was lost in collecting our 
 small forces, and striking the tents ; or in taking 
 speedy measures, as silently as possible, to de- 
 camp. We halted not again until we were 
 entirely clear of the forest. The change of cli- 
 mate experienced now, was very great ; not 
 only the days, but nights, became oppressively 
 hot under canvas ; and although highly gratified 
 by the trip, I was by no means sorry to find 
 myself in a bungalow at Bareilly. March and 
 April are the only months in which Europeans 
 can visit Behrmundeo with safety. Before that 
 time the weather is too cold, and afterwards, the 
 water is so impregnated with melted snow, 
 mixed with putrid leaves that are washed down 
 from the hills, as to render it certain death to the 
 traveller who attempts it. We just returned to 
 
 7
 
 220 
 
 BareUly in time to eat ortolans in perfection; 
 they come in season with the hot winds, and 
 are found in immense flights wherever there is a 
 sandy space. These birds are about the size of 
 larks, and when fried with crumbs of bread, 
 are really delicious. At first, they are like little 
 lumps of butter, and may be eaten bones and 
 all; but towards the latter end of the season, 
 they fall off amazingly, and are at all times so 
 delicate that if you attempt to keep them alive, 
 they are good for nothing ; they are not killed 
 with shot, but with a grain called gram. Orto- 
 lans and mangoes are great delicacies during 
 the hot season, and fortunately both are to be 
 procured in abundance. 
 
 After remaining a short time at Bardlly, 
 we proceeded towards Futty Ghur. In two 
 marches we reached Kiitterahy the scene of 
 battle between Siijah Dowlah and Hqffiz Ramut, 
 of whom I have before spoken. This town of 
 Kutterah is large, populous, and in good repair. 
 It was built by Sujah Dowlah to commemorate 
 his victory over the Rohillahs ; it is protected 
 by a high brick wall, and secured by ponderous 
 gates thickly barred with iron*. The wind hav- 
 ing blown hard all night, and still continuing to 
 do so, I travelled in my palankeen. This coun- 
 try is more than usually diversified with hill and 
 
 * Distant from BareUly about thirty miles.
 
 221 
 
 dale, which, with a variety of cultivation, af- 
 forded a most agreeable prospect ; but we had 
 the misfortune to find our tents pitched in an 
 open space, without the shelter of a single tree, 
 and the wind continuing to blow, raised the 
 light sandy particles in such quantities as to 
 render our situation, that day, by no means en- 
 viable. Added to this, none of the insignificant 
 villages near us, afibrded even fodder for our 
 cattle. The country, from this place, continued 
 level, and extremely fertile. We passed through 
 the village of Achai\ and about four miles fur- 
 ther, that of Sianna. Near the latter were some 
 luxuriant banyan trees, which formed an exten- 
 sive shade, while clumps of bamboos in every 
 direction, added much to the beauty of the 
 scene. The wind had now considerably fallen, 
 but the threatening aspect of the weather por- 
 tended an approaching storm, it did not how- 
 ever deter me from mounting an elephant at 
 this place, and we were fortunate enough to 
 arrive at our encampment before the rain com- 
 menced, which soon afterwards fell in torrents, 
 accompanied by heavy thunder, and some vivid 
 flashes of lightning. The town of Jellalahad, 
 where we halted, is built upon an eminence, 
 and contains a pretty strong fort. We found 
 plenty of game in the neighbourhood, particu- 
 larly hares, and the common brown feathered 
 partridge. I saw also several foxes ; these are
 
 222 
 
 the prettiest creatures imaginable, beautifully 
 formed, and not much higher than a rabbit ; the 
 colour is the same as those in England. 
 
 The road from Jellalabad to Umrutpoix is 
 very bad ; I travelled it in an open carriage, at 
 the imminent risk of my life. The prospect, 
 however, is extremely beautiful, the country 
 being checkered by groves of the kudgua, mango, 
 and sweet-scented banbool trees. About two 
 miles after leaving Jellalabad, we re-crossed the 
 river Ram Gonga. As it was too deep to ford, 
 we had recourse to boats. So thick a fog pre- 
 vailed, that although the river is not broad, we 
 could not distinguish the opposite side, and the 
 cold dampness of the atmosphere was exceed- 
 ingly unpleasant. About six miles farther, we 
 crossed another stream of about three feet deep, 
 beyond which, by a gradual ascent, we reached 
 our tents at Umrutpore. This village stands upon 
 a plain of considerable extent, as smooth as any 
 bowling-green. 
 
 In the course of the journey to-day, a gen- 
 tleman of the party being on horseback, was 
 attacked by a wild buffalo, who, inflicting a 
 wound with his horns on the flank of the horse, 
 so frightened him, that he set off at speed, and 
 by that means probably saved the life of his 
 rider. I was fortunately on an elephant, of 
 whom these animals are afraid. From Umrut- 
 pore to Futty GJmr, the distance is only eighteen
 
 223 
 
 miles ; but the road is as bad as it can be, and 
 passable ; particularly the last two miles, which 
 led through a thick jow jungle to the river 
 Ganges. Here we crossed in boats so rudely 
 constructed, that as the wind blew strong, and 
 the stream was exceedingly rapid, I did not feel 
 very comfortable. 
 
 Futty Ghur being the station appointed for 
 the Commissioners to reside at, we left them 
 there, and returned to the place from whence 
 we had started, viz. Secimdra near Agra.
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 At Secundra we remained until the middle of 
 September, 1809. At that time a committee 
 was ordered to proceed to Poosa, (below Patna,) 
 where the East India Company had a stud, in 
 order to select horses for the cavalry. Once 
 more, then, I was to become a traveller, and 
 destined to proceed in a contrary direction. We 
 were to mmxh as far as Futty Ghur, which 
 stands on the banks of the Ganges, and thence 
 go by water down the country. 
 
 Having in a former part of this narrative given 
 a description of the road between Futty Ghur 
 and Secundra, I shall pass over the present 
 march, and commence my journal from the pe- 
 riod of our embarkation at Futty Ghur on the 
 27th of September, 1809. Our boats having 
 been prepared for the voyage, consisting of a 
 budgerow to sleep in, a pimmce to eat in, a boat 
 fitted up as a kitchen ; another for poultry, 
 sheep, and stores; another for servants and 
 baggage ; and a sixth for the washing-boat and 
 Hindoo servants; and being joined by the fleets 
 of two other gentlemen, we set sail with a fair 
 wind towards Khawnpore, and arrived there on
 
 225 
 
 the 29th to dinner. The next day we sailed 
 rapidly down the stream for twenty miles, and 
 then came to for the night ; on which occasion 
 the boats were made fast to long wooden pegs, 
 driven into the bank for that purpose. This 
 gives the servants an opportunity of dressing 
 their food on shore ; besides which, shoals and 
 quick-sands are so numerous in the Ganges, that 
 it would be dangerous to move by night. 
 
 At day-break the next morning we again set 
 sail, but had not proceeded far before our 
 budgei'ow got aground, and it was six hours be- 
 fore she was under weigh again. This was by 
 no means an agreeable situation on a river full 
 of quick-sands. The weather was fortunately 
 mild ; and towards evening we reached a village 
 named Tickerry, which being inhabited by Hin- 
 doos, furnished no supplies for our other ser- 
 vants. Having undergone much fatigue during 
 the day, (for all hands are obliged to put a shoul- 
 der to the wheel in cases of emergency,) they 
 preferred rest, and deprivation of a meal, to 
 walking any distance in search of one. This 
 circumstance, fortunately, does not often occur, 
 as a man's strength in this country is estimated 
 by the quantity of food that he eats. I have 
 frequently known a palankeen bearer devour two 
 seers of boiled rice at a meal ; and so proud are 
 they of an enormous appetite, that they chaK 
 ienge each other to eat, as English clowns do to 
 
 Q
 
 226 
 
 figJd. Kum jour wallah, (a man of little strength,) 
 is one of the most opprobrious epithets that can 
 be used towards them ; indeed, of so much im- 
 portance do they consider a hearty meal, that 
 while thus engaged you may summon a man in 
 vain — he will not stir until he has finished it. 
 Happily, the ceremony is a short one. They 
 dress their victuals in earthen vessels, which are 
 broken in pieces the moment that the contents 
 are removed into brass ones ; (out of which it is 
 eaten ;) and these are scowered with sand after 
 every meal. Not a servant in the family, except 
 the sweeper, would touch any thing from their 
 master's table if they were starving; (in fact, 
 Hindoos do not eat animal food at all ; and meat 
 for Mussulmen must be prepared after the Jew- 
 ish custom, or they are forbidden by their law to 
 eat of it:) so they betook themselves to their 
 usual resource in such cases, composing them- 
 selves to sleep ; some on the top of their boat, 
 and others under an old sail on the bank. Our 
 pinnace being the largest in the fleet, it was 
 agreed that the party should assemble in it at 
 breakfast and dinner. Of an evening, when 
 the boats were made fast for the night, (which 
 was generally the case about sun-set,) some of 
 us walked or rode out until dinner was ready. 
 The dinner hour here is eight in the evening. 
 
 The mornings began now to grow cool ; and 
 the party proceeded in high spirits, with a cer-
 
 227 
 
 tainty that the weather would become pleasanter 
 every day. 
 
 Finding ourselves near the town of Jehanabady 
 which contains an excellent market, we came to 
 there for the night considerably before our usual 
 hour ; but this frequently answers, as there may 
 not be another good place to stop at when you 
 wish to do so, the banks being often craggy and 
 irregular, and no village within hail. 
 
 About noon the next day we came opposite 
 to the ancient city of Allahabad, but the river 
 had fallen so low that we could not approach it, 
 we were consequently obliged to make for the 
 opposite side of the river Jumna, where the wa- 
 ter is always deep. 
 
 After procuring some necessary supplies by 
 means of a small wherry from Allahabad, we 
 proceeded next day as usual ; but no village 
 being in sight at the hour for legowing, our boats 
 were made fast to a sand-bank in the middle of 
 the river. Our voyage to-day was by no means 
 agreeable ; for the river was bounded on either 
 side by high, and almost perpendicular banks. 
 The wind blew strong from the eastward during 
 the night, which being against the stream, caused 
 a heavy swell, and annoyed us not a little ; in 
 fact, we were obliged to quit the position we 
 had taken, and not without great difficulty 
 gained the opposite shore. The river shortly 
 after assumed the appearance of a sea, for which 
 
 q2
 
 228 
 
 our boats were by no means calculated. Unfor- 
 tunately for us, it soon increased to a gale of 
 wind ; during which, one of our baggage boats 
 was upset, and the budgerow broke from her 
 moorings, drifting with considerable rapidity 
 towards a place in the Nawaab's country inha- 
 bited by thieves, whose chief support is from 
 the plunder of boats, which they have a most 
 ingenious mode of attacking without being seen. 
 Accustomed to swimming and diving from their 
 infancy, the water may almost be termed their 
 natural element. When they perceive boats /e- 
 gowed for the night, and that the crews are re- 
 tired to rest, they cover their heads with earthen 
 pots, having two holes bored through them for 
 eyes, and slipping into the river, float silently 
 round until an opportunity offers of climbing 
 upon deck, when making themselves masters of 
 all property that is moveable, without disturb- 
 ing any one, they swim off with it securely. So 
 expert are they at this occupation, that a gentle- 
 man has frequently missed his writing desk in 
 the morning, without the smallest appearance 
 of any one having been there. 
 
 The next morning was cloudy, with a driz- 
 zling rain; but the wind proved fair, and we 
 let go our anchorage. The river however winds 
 so considerably here, that a fair wind one half 
 hour is contrary the next, so that we made 
 but little progress. The banks were still high.
 
 229 
 
 almost inaccessible : on their summits we ob- 
 served several large villages. The weather had 
 now become cool and pleasant. In the course 
 of the day we saw a great many fishing boats, 
 that amply supplied our table with delicious 
 fish : one sort, called the roe, resembles the cod- 
 fish we have in England. Mullet of all descrip- 
 tions are very plentiful in this river. In a few 
 hours the face of the country wore quite a dif- 
 ferent appearance : sloping banks clothed with 
 verdure, villages disposed amid groves of trees, 
 and whole families bathing and playing in the 
 stream, succeeded to the barren craggy banks 
 we had just left, and proved a most agreeable 
 change. 
 
 About noon we arrived at Mirzapore, a cele- 
 brated place for the manufacture of carpets, lit- 
 tle, if at all inferior, to those of Turkey or Per- 
 sia. Mirzapore is a station for civilians, that is 
 to say, a judge, collector, registrar, assistants, 
 &c. with one or two regiments of Seapoys. It 
 is also a principal seat of customs. 
 
 The following morning, at an early hour, we 
 passed the fort of Chunar, which is considered 
 one of the hottest places in India, and reached 
 Benares about seven o'clock in the evening. Vil- 
 lages became daily more numerous, and ferry- 
 boats plied in abundance. 
 
 We passed this day two indigo factories, and 
 the military station of Ghazipore, as likewise
 
 230 
 
 the fort and town of Buxar. From Buxar to 
 Chuperah the river winds considerably, and 
 there are many quick-sands which, in the rainy 
 season, render the navigation extremely dan- 
 gerous. A gentleman, whose budgerow stuck 
 on one of these, was obliged to walk backwards 
 and forwards on it the whole night, knee-deep 
 in water ; for had he stopped but for one mi- 
 nute, he would have been swallowed up for 
 ever. A boat from the shore, as soon as they 
 could see him, put off to his assistance ; but his 
 own, with all the property it contained, was ir- 
 retrievably lost. This part of the country is well 
 cultivated, and rendered picturesque from the 
 numerous villages and groves with which its 
 banks abound. 
 
 The traffic on the Ganges is really wonderful : 
 we passed in one day upwards of two hundred 
 merchant vessels, laden with grain quite to the 
 water's edge. About two o'clock a storm came 
 on from the south-west, which nearly sunk our 
 cooking boat, and obliged us to make fast to 
 the nearest bank : it lasted without intermission 
 for at least four hours. These storms are very 
 common in the rainy season, which is called the 
 south-west monsoon. It begins at Khcmpore 
 about the 20th of June, and continues until the 
 end of October : in Bengal a month earlier. 
 Heavy rolling clouds, from the south-west to 
 the north-east point of the compass, announce
 
 231 
 
 its approach. The sky assumes a terrific as- 
 pect, and after some days of extreme heat, the 
 rain comes down in torrents. The first shower 
 or two, causes the earth to smoke and (such 
 you can almost fancy to be the case) to hiss 
 like water falling upon a hot plate of iron, but 
 after that, the air becomes cool, and the whole 
 atmosphere breathes perfume, carrying delight- 
 ful fragrance on every breeze. This heavy rain 
 does not continue, as in Bengal, to inundate 
 the country for many weeks, giving to it the 
 appearance of one large sheet of water, but is 
 succeeded at intervals by fine reviving weather. 
 The ravines which intersect the upper provinces 
 carry off the superabundant water. 
 
 About ten o'clock the next morning we 
 reached Chiiperah, and finding it a cheap place 
 for natives to purchase provisions, they were 
 all permitted to go on shore. This delayed us 
 so long, that we did not reach Danapore until 
 the morning after. Here we crossed a small 
 branch of the Ganges, (which by an accumu- 
 lation of sand had been separated from the main 
 river,) and continuing our course for ten miles 
 farther, entered the river Gundiik, and soon 
 reached Soanepore. This village is situated on a 
 promontory, between the two rivers Gunduk and 
 Ganges. An annual fair is held here for those of 
 the East India Company's stud-horses that turn 
 out undersized, (or too low for the cavalry.) Here
 
 232 
 
 the cocoa-nut, bamboo, and tamarind trees, so 
 beautifully intermix their foliage, that it may be 
 justly termed a most luxuriant spot. We quitted 
 the boats, and having despatched our camp equi- 
 page, mounted horses, and rode the first fourteen 
 miles towards Poosa. We now came to a stream, 
 which not being fordable, we were obliged to 
 dismount, and cross it on a raft made of bam- 
 boos, fixed upon three canoes abreast of each 
 other: an extensive lake now presented itself, 
 covered with wild fowl. The surrounding coun- 
 try appeared populous, and consisted chiefly of 
 pasture lands. Soon after crossing the narrow 
 deep stream of which I have been speaking, we 
 encamped under the spreading branches of a tree 
 that afforded ample shelter for ourselves and 
 cattle. The ground, as far as the eye could 
 reach, was covered with the most lively ver- 
 dure, interspersed with stately trees : here 
 and there stood a hamlet, or cottage, neatly 
 thatched, round which the stream meandered 
 slowly, and the cattle browzed contentedly on 
 its banks. After travelling the next morning in 
 an open carriage for eighteen miles, on an exe- 
 crable road, we arrived at Poosa. The super- 
 intendant at this time was a Mr. Moorcroft, who 
 afterwards penetrated the third range of the 
 Snowy Mountains, and published an ingenious 
 work on the subject of his researches. The 
 pasture at Poosa is remarkably fine. The bam-
 
 233 
 
 boo plant flourishes here in perfection, form- 
 ing alike an admirable fence to their lands, and 
 considerably adding to their beauty. A river 
 called the Choota Gunduk fertilizes the soil. 
 There appears however a strong objection to 
 this place — I mean the climate — as is the 
 case throughout the province of Tirhoot, in 
 vs^hich district, Poosa is situated : a cold, damp 
 atmosphere, and constant fog in the winter ; a 
 hot, damp, close one, in the rains ; (when very 
 few escape the ravages of fever and ague ;) and 
 in the hot season a burning sun, without suf- 
 ficient wind to cool, even by means of tatties, 
 and yet too hot a one to live without them. 
 The seasons in India are only divided into these 
 three, of four months in each ; but they are 
 very different in the upper and lower provinces. 
 The province of Tb^hoot is favourable only for 
 the growth of indigo and production of horses. 
 
 The superintendant's mansion stands alone : 
 his nearest neighbour, with the exception of 
 those attached to the establishment, lives twelve 
 miles off. On the 4th of November we quitted 
 Poosa, and crossed the Ganges by three separate 
 ferry boats to Patna, being obliged to traverse 
 beds of sand between each. From Patna we 
 proceeded in carriages to Danapore, where we 
 did not arrive until one o'clock, much fatigued, 
 and almost starved. On the morning of the 
 12th, accompanied by a party from Danapore,
 
 234 
 
 we re-crossed the Ganges, in order to be pre- 
 sent at the Hadjepo7x fair, so called from a vil- 
 lage inland, of that name, although the booths 
 are erected and merchandize exposed at Soane- 
 pore, the village before mentioned as standing 
 on a promontory at the junction of the rivers 
 Ganges, and Gmiduk, forming at this time the 
 gayest scene imaginable. The surrounding- 
 scenery is very beautiful, being a continuation 
 of w^oods along the bank of either river. Those 
 who preferred living in their boats, sheltered by 
 the spreading branches of luxuriant trees, made 
 them fast to the shelving bank. On the present 
 occasion, many were gaily decked with flags, 
 and formed a line of above a mile in length. 
 The noise of firing matchlocks, and the sounds 
 of native music, proved to our ears exceedingly 
 annoying. There is a fine race-course at this 
 place, which was well attended, and the gen- 
 tlemen had good sport. Instead of a ball as 
 they have in England, this was a dinner for se- 
 parate parties, provided by the same traiteur, 
 under the trees. The business of the Committee, 
 and individual amusement, kept us here until 
 the 28th, when we all returned to Danapore. 
 
 On the 3rd of December we turned our faces 
 westward. Having before described the coun- 
 try between Patna and Khanpore, I shall only 
 add, that we travelled it either on horseback or 
 in an open carriage, and arrived there without
 
 235 
 
 accident on the 4th of January. Having passed 
 a few days with our friends, we commenced 
 our march towards Meerat by the way of Cho- 
 bipore, leaving Futti/ Ghur upon our right, and 
 passed a fort belonging to the Rajah of Tut- 
 teak, before which Colonel Guthrie, of the Com- 
 pany's service, lost his life in 1804. A lit- 
 tle farther, on the same road, brought us to a 
 place called Canoge^ where many curious coins 
 have been dug up of as ancient date as Alexan- 
 der's conquest, and with his name upon them : 
 how they came there has never been satisfac- 
 torily accounted for. The ruins are very exten- 
 sive ; and the natives make a great profit from 
 these coins. They manufacture and dye red 
 muslin for turbans in a superior manner at Ca- 
 noge ; also coarse cloths, checked muslins, rose 
 water, otta of roses, &c. I observed also a 
 number of gardens filled with poppies for pro- 
 ducing opium, which they obtain by making an 
 incision into the round part of the poppy, just 
 below the flower. This is generally done in the 
 evening, and before morning a sufficient quan- 
 tity of opium exudes to take off". It appears 
 like a clear dark gum, which hardens by ex- 
 posure to the air. 
 
 Our route from hence lay through ravines for 
 nearly fourteen miles. Scarcely could a space 
 be found large enough to pitch our tents upon. 
 We were much disturbed at night by wolves, 
 
 7
 
 236 
 
 which the sentries affirmed were the largest they 
 had ever seen. 
 
 Next morning's march brought us near to a 
 fortified place, reported to be the haunt of ban- 
 ditti. Our guide, by way of encouragement, 
 informed us that a few days before a gentleman 
 was robbed here, and two of his servants put to 
 death. We had, however, the good fortune to 
 pass the night unmolested, and proceeded as 
 usual on the following day. A dreary road, over 
 a bleak and sandy plain, much cut up by heavy 
 loads, appeared before us. The wind blew ex- 
 ceedingly cold ; and, to add to my discomfort, 
 when about the centre of this dreary wild, one 
 of the springs of our carriage snapped. Behold 
 me, then, standing the picture of misery, shi- 
 vering with cold, and sharply pressed by hun- 
 ger, (for we had not yet breakfasted,) while 
 they bound up, as well as circumstances would 
 permit, the untimely fracture. Blacksmiths 
 and carpenters are found in every village, so 
 that the damage was easily repaired when we 
 arrived there. Next morning the weather was 
 so cold, that I preferred riding the first five or 
 six miles on horseback ; the carriage was con- 
 sequently sent forward by one of the grooms, 
 who having by some chance let go the reins, 
 a spirited Arab mare, being in the shafts, set 
 off at speed, overturned the gig, and almost 
 killed the man. We received a present to-day
 
 237 
 
 from the Rajah of a wild hog that he had just 
 killed; dressed some of it for dinner, and found 
 it excellent, resembling both in appearance and 
 flavour the most delicate veal. From hence we 
 reached Sarseney to breakfast, which place hav- 
 ing described in my journey from Secimdra to 
 Hurdoar, I shall here pass over; suffice it to 
 say, that the town appeared more flourishing 
 than at that period, and the fort exhibited more 
 evident marks of decay. Its former Rajah, Ba- 
 goin Smg, was so attached to the place from its 
 having descended to him through a long line of 
 ancestry, that he offered Government a large 
 sum of money for the re-possession of it ; but 
 prudence forbids their acquiescence. He is one 
 of those who are not to be trusted. 
 
 After marching the three successive days with 
 little variation to the scene, and no remarkable 
 incidents, we arrived near the fort of jMala 
 Ghur, the residence of Bahadur Khaii, (a quiet, 
 civil ally of the English Government,) and en- 
 camped close to his garden. Bahadar Khan 
 himself was absent ; but his brother, who lives 
 with him, paid us a complimentary visit with a 
 present of fruit and vegetables, and in the even- 
 ing we walked with him over the gardens. 
 
 The next morning we drove through a beauti- 
 ful country, over a fine hard road for about 
 twelve miles, to Galowty, a village surrounded 
 by clumps of trees and green fields. During
 
 238 
 
 this ride over a fine open plain, we started a 
 herd of antelopes, which the dogs we had with 
 us pursued for about half an hour full in our 
 view, and afforded excellent sport. The ante- 
 lopes at length eluded them by darting into a 
 thicket. They are the most elegant animals in 
 shape, as well as action, that I ever beheld. 
 
 The first four miles from Galowty led through 
 fields of grain, chiefly barley ; after which we 
 entered a dock jungle that was extremely difficult 
 to drive through on account of the stumps. This 
 continued all the way to Hauper. 
 
 Hauper is a large town, situated on an emi- 
 nence, with a brick wall all round it. It is a 
 station for invalided Seapoys of the Mussulman 
 persuasion, and a very refractory set they are. 
 Their chief employment is drinking bang, (a spi- 
 rituous liquor extracted from an herb somewhat 
 resembling mint,) and smoking. An officer re- 
 sides on the spot, but he cannot keep them out 
 of mischief: they are always inclined to be in- 
 solent to strangers, and sometimes have been 
 known to plunder them. Many fine large groves 
 of the mango tree appeared about this place. 
 
 From Hauper we proceeded still through a 
 dock jungle to Ker Koondahy a village as inhos- 
 pitable as could be well imagined, and one in 
 which little was to be got, and much appre- 
 hended. We did not however retire to rest un- 
 til a very late hour, and kept the sentries upon
 
 239 
 
 the alert for the rest of the night, so that we es- 
 caped the usual fate of travellers at that place, 
 (the loss of their property,) and arrived safely to 
 dinner at Meerat next day. 
 
 Thus ended our trip from Agr^a to Poosa, and 
 from Poosa to Meerat^ a journey of sixteen hun- 
 dred miles, performed chiefly in an open car- 
 riage. As it may perhaps amuse those who have 
 not been in India, I annex a list of our establish- 
 ment for the march. 
 
 Two palankeens. 
 
 Twenty-four bearers. 
 
 One sirdah, or head bearer, and his assistant. 
 
 Two elephants with their drivers, and two 
 attendants. One of these carried a tent. 
 
 One gig. 
 
 Eight horses. 
 
 Eight grooms. 
 
 Eight grass cutters for the horses. Here it 
 may not be amiss to mention, that the horses do 
 not eat hay as in England, but the fibrous roots 
 of grass well beaten, which requires a man for 
 each horse to cut and prepare. These roots, 
 and grain, (a kind of vetch,) constitute the 
 food of a horse in India. 
 
 One coachman. 
 
 Six clashies, or men to pitch tents. 
 
 Three tents, with two poles in each, and dou- 
 ble walls : the space between the walls a pas- 
 sage of about five feet all round. These tents
 
 240 
 
 are twenty feet between the poles, about sixteen 
 feet wide, and five-and-twenty feet high. Some 
 of them have boarded floors and glass doors ; 
 but this is only in a standing encampment. They 
 are lined throughout with chintz, carpeted, and 
 have branch lights for candles fixed against the 
 poles. 
 
 Twenty coolies — (people from the bazaar, at 
 so much per diem, to carry furniture for the 
 tents, vs^hich is all transported upon their heads.) 
 
 One washerman and his family. 
 
 One baker and his assistant. 
 
 One khansomer, or house steward. 
 
 Two footmen, or waiters. 
 
 Two tailors. 
 
 One masalgje, to clean knives and carry the 
 lanthorn, go of errands, &c. 
 
 Two women servants. 
 
 One cook and assistant. 
 
 One sweeper to each tent. 
 
 Seventy sheep. 
 
 Thirty-five goats. 
 
 Two shepherds. 
 
 Nine camels. 
 
 Three camel drivers. 
 
 Fourteen bullocks. 
 
 Five waggons. 
 
 Seven drivers. 
 
 Twenty-four fowls, forty ducks, twelve geese, 
 twelve rabbits, twelve turkeys.
 
 241 
 
 Two men to take care of the poultry. 
 
 Besides the families of all these servants, with 
 their horses, bullocks, and attendants, which 
 may be computed upon an average of three to 
 one. 
 
 As it is customary for every individual to 
 draw water for himself from the wells, each of 
 them are supplied with a brass pot, called a 
 lota: it contains about a quart, and is shaped 
 like two-thirds of a globe, with a rim round the 
 top. Round this they tie a strong whip-cord, 
 about the common depth of a well ; and when 
 travelling, each man fastens his lota round his 
 waist ; for they are much too cleanly to drink 
 after one another. 
 
 Link-boys and guides are procured at every 
 village ; so indeed are coolies, should more be 
 required on the journey. These are relieved 
 at the next village by others, and so on. It is 
 also customary to apply to the head man of that 
 village to furnish a guard for the night, which 
 guard is paid and discharged in the morning, 
 except a robbery is perpetrated during the 
 night, and then (unless by dakoitij, as they are 
 called) the man who furnishes the guard is an- 
 swerable. He also presents a kid, or a couple 
 of fowls to you, on your arrival. 
 
 We had not been long at Meerat before a 
 party was proposed to go tiger hunting. As I 
 had never witnessed the sport, I was prevailed 
 
 R
 
 242 
 
 upon to join them. Having procured five or six 
 elephants that had been properly trained, some 
 rifle and double-barrelled guns, &c.' &c. the 
 next morning at day-break we sallied forth. 
 A native chief, with his hundred horsemen, and 
 a numerous suite of attendants with spears and 
 matchlocks, joined us. One of the boldest ele- 
 phants was selected for me, as being the safest. 
 A timid elephant, on these occasions, is consi- 
 dered dangerous, because when alarmed he 
 starts off, regardless of any impediment that 
 may lie in the way, frequently running under 
 trees, and always making violent efforts to 
 get quit of his load. It however not unfre- 
 quently happens that the means we think most 
 likely to secure our safety, prove the cause of 
 our destruction ; so it had nearly happened to 
 me. The elephant on which / was mounted, 
 having by some chance got before the others in 
 the jungle, smelt the tiger first, and instantly 
 twisting his trunk round a bush that was before 
 him, began tearing it up with all his might, 
 roaring horribly all the time, when, to my utter 
 dismay, up rose an enormous tiger. The party 
 were there almost at the same instant. The ti- 
 ger, alarmed (as they supposed) by the clatter 
 of so many horses, probably aroused from sleep, 
 made no resistance, but slunk off into a thicker 
 covert. Nothing, however, could induce my 
 elephant to move, as long as a single stem re-
 
 243 
 
 mained of the bush he had been crouched under, 
 so that the party all pursued him, leaving me 
 behind. I cannot say that I was much disturbed 
 at the circumstance, for having seen a tiger 
 alive, and in a wild state, T was satisfied ; and 
 after seeing him swim a small nullah, with his 
 pursuers closely following, I returned quietly 
 home. In a few hours the gentlemen came 
 back. The tiger had shown wonderful sport, 
 and had crossed another stream. At length, find- 
 ing himself still closely pursued, he turned, 
 made a spring upon one of the elephants, and 
 for some moments hung by his fore-paws on the 
 lower frame of the howdah. The gentleman 
 who was on it immediately pointed his gun to 
 the throat of the animal, which took effect : he 
 let go his hold, when a volley from the party 
 despatched him. He was a beautiful beast, 
 stood nearly five feet high, with paws and legs 
 beyond proportion large. It was supposed that, 
 being gorged with food, he was asleep when my 
 elephant roused him, and too lazy until enraged 
 to offer battle. The claws of these animals are 
 said to be poisonous ; but I rather think the fa- 
 tality lies in the jagged wound they inflict, which 
 tearing away not only flesh, but sinews, is sel- 
 dom known to heal, and generally proves fatal. 
 The next day I witnessed a sport of a different 
 kind, being perfectly harmless, and I believe 
 perfectly innocent. A number of young Hin- 
 
 R 2
 
 244 
 
 doo girls, apparently about the age of six or 
 seven years, most gaily dressed with scarlet 
 muslin veils, &c. assembled round a pond. They 
 were accompanied by a crowd of middle-aged 
 women, whom I concluded to be their mothers, 
 followed by a number of boys. On a signal from 
 the women, these girls threw (each of them) some- 
 thing into the water ; when the boys instantly 
 plunged in, with sticks in their hands, and be- 
 gan battering most furiously what I now disco- 
 vered to be dolls grotesquely dressed for the oc- 
 casion. The girls it appeared, upon inquiry, 
 being now of an age to be betrothed, the present 
 ceremony denoted that they voluntarily threw 
 away childish things, exemplifying that saying 
 of St. Paul's, " When I was a man, I put away 
 childish things," &c. As it was considered an 
 ill omen if the doll did not immediately sink, 
 the greatest anxiety was manifest in the counte- 
 nance of each interested spectator; the boys 
 meantime continuing to splash and halloo as 
 long as any remained above water ; after which, 
 making their salaams to the pond, they all qui- 
 etly retired.
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 In tlie month of April in the following year, the 
 commissioners were directed to make a further 
 settlement of the Bareilly district. For this pur- 
 pose they proceeded towards Jehanahad, near 
 Pilibete; and t^e joined them there, crossing the 
 Ganges at Ghurmoktasir Ghaut, about forty miles 
 from Meerat. On landing at the village of T'lgree, 
 our dismay may be imagined, to find that there 
 was no road for a carriage. Unfortunately, we had 
 not brought any other conveyance : it was neces- 
 sary therefore to make the attempt. After many 
 hair-breadth escapes, (passing through a deep 
 sand, covered with thorny brambles^ without the 
 slightest trace of human footsteps,) this was at 
 length effected, and we reached the village of 
 Shawpore. Here it was discovered that the wa- 
 ter was so bad as not to be drinkable ; and our 
 people had neglected to bring any, prepared, 
 as it generally is, either by a preparation of 
 charcoal, or through a filtering stone ; so that 
 we were obliged to send six miles back to the 
 Ganges in order to fetch some, and then wait 
 two or three hours until it was purified. As I 
 said before, patience is a great virtue, particu- 
 larly in India !
 
 246 
 
 We commenced our march the next morning 
 as nsiial, about day-break, and soon crossed a 
 stone bridge of considerable length, built across 
 a morass. The vestiges of magnificence were 
 perceptible in this structure ; but time had 
 proved a serious enemy — the pavement was 
 much broken, and the parapet with its costly 
 ornaments fallen away in large fragments. From 
 this place to Amrooah, which is about twenty 
 miles, we traversed an open country much re- 
 sembling Bagshot-heath, and saw several herd 
 of antelopes. Near this town are some very an- 
 cient Hindoo buildings, well worth the attention 
 of an antiquary. This place is celebrated for a 
 delicate kind of ware, like that invented, or ra- 
 ther brought to perfection, by Mr. Wedgewood : 
 the inhabitants make beautiful ornamental vases 
 of it, pyramids, hookah stands, &c. chiefly white 
 raised figures in groupes, from Grecian and an- 
 cient history, — and flowers, on a light grey or 
 exquisite lilac ground. 
 
 From Amrooah we crossed a sandy plain of 
 four miles long, without a hut, or even a shrub 
 of any description to be seen. In general, these 
 sandy plains are almost covered with wild me- 
 lons ; so kindly does Providence watch over the 
 traveller, and those who seek their livelihood 
 from afar ! In this climate melons are particu- 
 larly grateful, and conducive to health ; not 
 only the yellow solid melon, but the large green
 
 247 
 
 water melons, flourish abundantly in this arid 
 and uncultivated soil. 
 
 This sandy plain conducted us into a vile road, 
 with ruts so deep that the carriage was conti- 
 nually in danger of being overturned ; and we 
 were several times under the necessity of quit- 
 ting it, in order to have it extricated. This un- 
 pleasant kind of travelling fortunately did not 
 continue long — we had soon the pleasure of find- 
 ing ourselves upon a fine hard down, with oc- 
 casional clumps of trees. Our tents were pitched 
 near a village called Falkhurrah. The scene in 
 front of us presented the cheering prospect of 
 *' valleys filled with wavy corn." In the cool of 
 the evening, while sitting at the door of the 
 tent, a man, apparently in the situation of a 
 farmer, came up to me, and respectfully making 
 his salaam, entreated me to give him some me- 
 dicine for his wife, who he informed me was ex- 
 tremely ill. I replied, that I was afraid of admi- 
 nistering without seeing the patient ; and asked 
 if he could conduct me to her. With concern I 
 learned that she lived seven miles off, and in a 
 contrary direction to the road we were travel- 
 ling. I then inquired if there were no Brahmin 
 in his village who understood the properties of 
 medicine? Yes, he said, there was, and she 
 had consulted him ; but had latterly got consi- 
 derably worse, and had now no faith in his pre-
 
 •248 
 
 scriptions. She had heard, he said, of our arrival 
 there in the morning, and believing that the 
 English knew every thing, she had requested 
 him to come for our advice. I again repeated 
 that it v^as impossible to prescribe with any 
 prospect of success, unless I could see the pa- 
 tient. He said, if she thought herself equal to 
 the journey, he would bring her into Moradahad 
 next day, whither wt also intended to go. I told 
 him if he could accomplish that^ I would consult 
 one of our English physicians, who knew a great 
 deal more about the matter than I did, and I 
 was convinced would do every thing in his power 
 for her. With this arrangement he appeared 
 perfectly satisfied, and took his leave. I con- 
 fess that I thought it very improbable we should 
 hear any thing more of them ; but, to my sur- 
 prise, this poor woman was at MoradabadhQioYQ 
 us. She was sitting on the cart that had con- 
 veyed her thither. A faint smile illumined her 
 pallid countenance as I approached her : she 
 thanked me a thousand times for my condescen- 
 sion ; (as she termed it ;) expressed the greatest 
 reliance on the English, who she seemed to think 
 could do any thing they wished ; and said she 
 was sure she should soon get better now. It 
 went to my heart to hear her talk so ; for her 
 complaint was a confirmed dropsy, occasioned 
 by poorness of blood. She was reduced, poor
 
 249 
 
 creature, almost to a skeleton. We immediately 
 sent for the surgeon of the battalion, who was 
 kind enough to receive her under his care, and 
 promised to pay her case particular attention. 
 Alas ! assistance came too late — she survived 
 only a month longer ; but during that period I 
 had the satisfaction of knowing that she had 
 every possible attention paid her, and every 
 thing done that could be to relieve her. I con- 
 fess I felt deeply interested for this stranger; 
 and my only consolation arose from the reflec- 
 tion, that I had done all in my power to save 
 her. She was not more than two or three-and- 
 twenty years of age. Our remedies often act 
 with wonderful success upon these Hindoos, 
 whose mode of living is so temperate, and their 
 blood so pure, that you have only the complaint 
 itself to combat. The constitution is naturally 
 good ; and if they have fever, it is soon con- 
 quered ; besides which, they will take wine, or 
 any thing, if given in the shape of medicine. A 
 Mussulman, on the contrary, is so afraid of 
 disobeying " the Prophet," that he would ra- 
 ther die than take any thing that is proscribed 
 by the Koraan : an instance of the kind occurred 
 in our own family. We were once travelling, 
 when both Hindoo and Mussulmen servants 
 were attacked by bilious fevers : the Hindoos 
 were all restored to health by a few grains of ca- 
 lomel, with a dose or two of Epsom salts, and
 
 250 
 
 drinking plentifully of conjy * ; whereas several 
 of the Mussulmen died, because they did not 
 know the preparation of calomel, and therefore 
 would not take it. 
 
 Immediately on quitting Moradabad^o. forded 
 a narrow stream, with a steep bank on either 
 side, and crossed the river Ram Gonga. The 
 bed of sand between these two streams is the 
 deepest I ever passed : we were obliged to quit 
 the carriage ; and even then, the horse could 
 scarcely drag it through. This sand extended 
 nearly two miles ; after which we came into a 
 road so completely cut up by carriages of bur- 
 then, that a foot pace was all we could aspire 
 to. I think I never was more tired of an expe- 
 dition than of ours this morning. A little far- 
 ther on we descried a stone bridge of one arch, 
 over a rapid stream, so terrific in appearance 
 from its immense height, that had it been prac- 
 ticable, I should have preferred wading through 
 the water to passing over it. The road was 
 paved with flat stones, and rose nearly perpen- 
 dicular to the centre of the bridge, from whence 
 the descent was equally abrupt ; neither had it 
 the smallest parapet or railing on either side. 
 It really required great firmness of nerve to ven- 
 ture over in a carriage. After considerable fa- 
 
 * Conjy is rice boiled in water until dissolved, and taken in 
 a liquid state.
 
 251 
 
 tigue we reached a village called Moor ah, where 
 our tents were pitched in a beautiful grove of 
 mango trees, laden with green fruit. It was 
 now the latter end of April. The fruit was then 
 about the size of young apricots : they are de- 
 licious in tarts, and emit a most grateful odour. 
 
 From hence we travelled over an open coun- 
 try, with innumerable small hamlets, to Kamora 
 de Morahy a village belonging to the Nawaab of 
 Rampoor. Our supplies at this place were scan- 
 ty ; but they were cheerfully furnished, which 
 is not often the case in villages that belong to 
 native chiefs. This country is much intersected 
 by streams, some of which we forded, and over 
 others found a rude kind of stone bridge, in 
 many cases quite dangerous to pass. The cli- 
 mate is many degrees cooler in the Moradabad 
 district than at Meerat. I found the nights at 
 this season really cold. 
 
 We now travelled with cultivation on either 
 side for seventeen miles^ and encamped in a 
 large grove composed of different sorts of trees 
 — a thing very unusual in India, as they gene- 
 rally plant each sort separate. This variety of 
 foliage may perhaps account for the different 
 sorts of birds assembled in it, all straining their 
 melodious throats at once. Of a grove com- 
 posed of the mango only, the dove, and a small 
 delicate creature called the mango bird, seem to 
 claim exclusive possession, while tamarind trees
 
 252 
 
 are covered by paroquets. The country here is 
 very beautiful, being every where diversified by 
 fields of corn, villages peeping through luxuriant 
 groves, and rich pasture lands ; but the roads so 
 miserably bad that we expected the carriage 
 every minute to overturn. 
 
 Halting at a village named Ourourie, near 
 which runs a fine clear stream, we caught fish 
 in abundance, particularly that named the roe, 
 and found it by no means inferior to the cod- 
 fish we eat in England. 
 
 From Ouroime we travelled over a plain, and 
 were often delayed by being obliged to cross 
 nullahs, whose banks were steep and rugged ; 
 we consequently performed this stage on an ele- 
 phant, leaving the gig to be led slowly after us. 
 The sagacity of the elephant is so great, that he 
 always feels with one paw whether the ground 
 will bear his weight before he trusts himself 
 upon it; indeed I have heard it asserted, that 
 they have even the power to smell the nature of 
 the soil, and judge from thence whether it is 
 firm or not. I have seen many instances myself 
 of sagacity in these animals, but never any that 
 struck me more forcibly than what daily oc- 
 curred on this march. It is customary to feed 
 elephants on cakes made of the coarser particles 
 of wheat, after the flour has been separated 
 from it. This is called otta, eaten also by the 
 natives as bread, and sold in every bazaar.
 
 253 
 
 When our elephant arrived at her ground, after 
 having (as usual) fastened her fore legs to a 
 wooden peg fixed in the earth for that purpose, 
 the mahoxcat, her driver, usually went away to 
 purchase otta * ; upon which occasions he placed 
 a child of his own, about two years of age, on a 
 little straw between the elephant's legs, charg- 
 ing her to take care of the child until his return. 
 Strange as it may appear, it is no less true, that so 
 careful was the animal of her young charge, that 
 during the father's absence, no one dared to ap- 
 proach her, not even a dog. On the man's re- 
 turn from the bazaar he loosed her feet, and 
 mounted upon the neck, in order to take her to 
 the river to drink and bathe, (which latter they 
 delight in,) desiring her at the same time to give 
 him the child. This she immediately did, by 
 cautiously winding her trunk round the child's 
 waist, and lifting him up within the father's 
 .reach. I have seen the same elephant take a 
 piece of the cake that lay before her, and place 
 it gently in the child's lap. 
 
 After travelling over as vile a road as could 
 be met with, we reached the Jehanabad. This 
 is a large town in the vicinity of PUibete, where 
 the commissioners having business, we remained 
 for more than two months. In order to protect 
 
 * Otta, and the leaves of the peeple tree, are the usual food 
 of elephants, who tear off large branches with their trunks, and 
 load themselves.
 
 254 
 
 ourselves from the heat of the sun, (at this time 
 excessive,) thatched roofs, supported on pillars 
 of wood, were erected over our tents, which an- 
 swered the purpose admirably. The party con- 
 sisted of nine, myself and Mrs. , the only 
 
 ladies. We found a kind of shed, sufficiently 
 large to accommodate us all as a dining-room, 
 and it was fitted up accordingly. We assembled 
 about six in the evening, took a short ride be- 
 fore dinner, and passed our time delightfully. 
 Being situated upon an eminence, our saloon 
 commanded an extensive prospect. Immediately 
 round us was a fine pasture land, ornamented 
 by a number of small coppices, which gave it 
 quite an English appearance ; and beyond that, 
 a diversity of hill and dale, extremely grateful 
 to the eye. Going out one evening earlier than 
 usual, we espied a man seated on a square of 
 ground, measuring about six feet across, (a little 
 raised,) surrounded by a fire made of a kind of 
 peat, and himself besmeared, head and all, with 
 ashes. A more deplorable object I never be- 
 held. Upon inquiry, we found that he sat thus, 
 with his legs doubled under him, and his head 
 bare, from sun-rise to sun-set, in pursuance of 
 a vow ; that he was a Brahmin, and this a vo- 
 luntary penance — and a dreadful penance it must 
 have been, for the fire was within his reach all 
 the way round, and he kept constantly reple- 
 nishing it. No one but a Hindoo, or one of Don
 
 255 
 
 Juaiis friends, could have supported it. I do 
 really think that he must have washed himself 
 with something, and so become fire-proof; 
 otherwise, with the heat of the sun and fire to- 
 gether, he must surely have been melted ; or 
 perhaps his safety lay in having nothing to melt, 
 for he was literally only skin and bone. 
 
 During our residence at this place we were 
 visited by two gentlemen, who told us that they 
 had been on a shooting party for about a month, 
 and in that time had killed four-and-twenty ti- 
 gers, one wild elephant, two wild buffaloes, and 
 two bears. The skins of the latter were so fine, 
 that I prevailed on them to spare one to me for 
 trimmings. 
 
 This place, so inviting to walk in, was ex- 
 tremely dangerous on account of snakes, centi- 
 pedes, and scorpions, with all which it abounds. 
 Our servants complained also of the water, 
 which they said was bad tasted, and unwhole- 
 some. It certainly had somewhat of an earthy 
 flavour ; but it was of little consequence to us — 
 first, because we took the precaution to qualify 
 it ; and, secondly, that we had brought a good 
 supply with us, and never drank any that had 
 not been filtered or purified by a proportion of 
 charcoal and alum. A much more serious ob- 
 jection to us, was, that the place was subject to 
 blasts of mephitic vapour. One of these, rising 
 from the valley, passed through the room in
 
 256 
 
 which we were sitting after dinner. There were 
 at that time only six persons round the table — 
 two on each side, and one at each end. The 
 current of air of which I am speaking, was so 
 partial as to affect only the gentleman and my- 
 self who sat on that side of the table. We were 
 seized at the same moment by violent pain across 
 the eyes, a sensation of extreme tension, and 
 throbbing of the temples ; giddiness, and sick- 
 ness at the stomach. Nor were we free from 
 acute pain in the head, for some hours after. 
 The natives of Jehanahad seemed to feel a great 
 dread of these visitations, by which, they told 
 us, many had lost their lives ; and we were 
 given to understand, that they thought Mr. 
 
 and myself must either be angels or diables 
 
 not to have suffered more. A few nights after 
 this catastrophe, a band of desperate fellows at- 
 tacked a village near, in which part of our retinue 
 had taken up their abode : falling on its sleeping- 
 inhabitants, sword in hand, they plundered and 
 cut down all who had the courage to oppose 
 them. Our gentlemen, on hearing the tumult, 
 ran with pistols to the spot, but too late to save 
 the lives of many. Three servants of the party, 
 besides a number of women and children, had 
 already fallen a sacrifice to these barbarians. 
 One poor little infant was cut to pieces in its 
 mother's arms. Unfortunately, no prisoners 
 were made ; for hearing European voices, they
 
 257 
 
 immediately decamped, while the darkness of 
 the night favoured their escape. 
 
 Being so near it, I took the opportunity to 
 visit Pilibete, which appears to have been a place 
 of some consequence. It is surrounded by a 
 high brick wall, defended by ponderous gates. 
 At the entrance of the town stands a handsome 
 mosque, erected in memory of Haffiz Ramut. 
 The scite of this mosque is a square of consi- 
 derable extent, at each corner of which is a so- 
 lid minaret. Ascending a flight of steps suffi- 
 ciently broad to give a just idea of the magnifi- 
 cent interior, we passed under an arched gate- 
 way into a spacious court paved with grey mar- 
 ble, having arcades of the same on either side. 
 The central building was a solid square, entered 
 by three arches from the front, surmounted by 
 domes, with a small minaret at either corner. 
 The inside of these domes are elegantly and 
 tastefully painted to represent various flowers 
 in their richest and most brilliant tints. A 7nul- 
 iicJc, whom we met in the town, gave us much 
 intelligence respecting the place ; and in the 
 course of conversation I learned how the village 
 apothecaries are remunerated for attendance on 
 the poor. The head man of each village con- 
 tracts with any Brahmin skilled in the use of 
 drugs, to pay him eight annas (which is the half 
 of a rupee) a year, for as many villages as are 
 tinder his eontroul ; and this mullick assured me
 
 258 
 
 that a native physician, (hakime^ as they are 
 called,) then residing at Pilibete, by this mode 
 alone realized a regular income of a hundred and 
 fifty rupees per annum. 
 
 The town of Pilibete is celebrated for the ma- 
 nufacture of a strong coarse kind of cloth, made 
 from hemp, which grows on the adjacent hills ; 
 and a very pure kind of lime called chunam, with 
 which, buildings are faced to represent marble ; 
 and so complete is the deception, that even the 
 touch scarcely convinces the inquirer that it is 
 not marble. This district is full of wild ele- 
 phants ; numbers of them are caught annually 
 in pits dug for that purpose. We saw a large 
 male elephant brought in between two decoy 
 ones, which are always females. They preserve 
 their ascendancy by pushing him with great 
 violence from one to the other, until the poor 
 animal is so bewildered that he does not know 
 which way to turn, and so becomes an easy 
 conquest. 
 
 Pilibete is also a great mart for timber, which 
 finds a ready sale at Bareilly. This accounts 
 for the roads from hence to that city being so 
 dreadfully cut up. They appear to cultivate 
 rice and paddy at the foot of these hills, where 
 the ground is occasionally overflowed. The 
 etymology of the word paddy is so extraordi- 
 nary, that I cannot avoid mentioning it. The 
 grain so named somewhat resembles, rice, but
 
 259 
 
 more so tapioca. By the natives it is called 
 claim; but having originally been given to our 
 troops in Bengal instead of money, — yvhich. pay , 
 in the language of the country, is termed ^jorA/j/, 
 — it has, in the course of time, been converted 
 into the word paddif, by which these fields are 
 now almost as generally known as by their 
 original name of dahn. Many subversions of 
 the same kind have crept into the oriental lan- 
 guages, which often occasion ludicrous mis- 
 takes. 
 
 I observed here a few patches of the bamboo 
 plant, which proved the springy nature of the 
 soil. There is a noble dock-yard at this place, 
 in which they were at this time building some 
 trading vessels of large dimensions ; while an 
 immense number of people also found employ- 
 ment in the repair of a magnificent bridge of 
 ancient structure, across the river Ram Go?iga^ 
 which runs through the heart of the tov/n. 
 
 About the middle of June we returned to Ba- 
 reilly, and remained in a good bungalow until 
 the 17th of July. This was the hottest season 
 that had been known for years. The rain, which 
 usually begins to fall about the 20th of June, 
 did not commence until the 7th of July, and 
 then it came down in torrents. Our party now 
 separated — the commissioners for their residence 
 at Futty Ghu)\ and we, to return to Meerat. The 
 heavy rain that had fallen rendered the road so 
 
 s2
 
 260 
 
 slippery, that at one place the poor horse which 
 drew the gig was fairly tripped up, and lay for 
 some seconds on his side, so much alarmed^ 
 that although a fine high-spirited Arab, he had 
 not courage to move from this perilous situation ; 
 and was only relieved by being completely unhar- 
 nessed. We had fortunately several attendants 
 near, who dragged the carriage for about fifty 
 yards into a more even road, which gave the 
 horse time to recover himself, for he trembled 
 like a human being. This incident delayed us 
 so much, that it was near two o'clock in the day 
 before we reached our tents at Sickerry. After 
 being so long exposed to a scorching sun, I was 
 delighted to see that they had pitched these 
 tents under the shade of lofty trees by the side 
 of a large pond. So cool and refreshing was it, 
 that I thought with regret on the prospect of 
 quitting it so soon. How many circumstances, 
 trivial in themselves, serve to convince us that 
 we know not what is best for us. About four 
 o'clock the clouds foreboded an approaching 
 storm ; loud thunder rolled ; the vivid lightning- 
 flashed ; the angry waters would not be re- 
 strained — they burst their bounds, and in an 
 instant our tent was overflowed. No remedy 
 appeared but patience. I felt tiiankful that it 
 happened before it grew dark, for the night 
 multiplies all horrors ; indeed I have observed, 
 that in every misfortune some consolation may
 
 261 
 
 be derived, if persons would take the trouble 
 to seek it ; and I consoled myself also by think- 
 ing that it was too violent to last long — so, 
 seating myself on a sofa a la Tiirke, I quietly 
 awaited the event. The storm abated in about 
 an hour ; but the atmosphere still retained so 
 much humidity, that I awoke in the night with 
 most excruciating pain in one of my ancles ; and 
 on attempting to rise next morning, I had the 
 mortification to find that I could not stand — in- 
 deed, that I had nearly lost the use of my limbs. 
 With some difficulty I was placed in my palan- 
 keen, and (as much by water as by land, for the 
 whole country was overflowed) conveyed to our 
 next encampment. My palankeen was borne 
 the greatest part of the way upon the bearers' 
 heads, instead of their shoulders ; and the horse 
 on which my husband rode by the side of it, 
 swam with him in many places. I consoled 
 myself with the conviction of the bearers being 
 an amphibious kind of animal, who, if the wa- 
 ter did not actually run into their mouths, would 
 paddle their way through. 
 
 In the rainy season, unless the weather is 
 cloudy, it is intensely hot ; and there is some- 
 times a complete stagnation of air. The my- 
 riads of insects that swarmed around, were suf- 
 ficient to tire the patience of Job himself; when, 
 to add to the miseries of this inauspicious jour- 
 ney, the bed and bedding came in completely
 
 262 
 
 drenched — it had been deposited m a pool of 
 water. Nor had I in my travelling baskets one 
 suit of dry linen. Exposure to the sun, however, 
 soon extracted all moist particles, and rendered 
 every thing as it was before. This is an advan- 
 tage in an eastern clime, which in Europe you 
 have not ; but no remedy was at hand for my 
 swollen foot, which, M'ithout any appearance of 
 inflammation, had become exceedingly painful ; 
 I was consequently obliged to pursue the jour- 
 ney in my palankeen. This was not accom- 
 plished without sundry inconveniences : either 
 the torches were extinguished on a barren heath 
 by a powerful gust of wind, or one of the torch 
 bearers was disabled by a thorn which had pe- 
 netrated his foot; or, finally, the palankeen 
 bearers fell down on the brink of a lake, &c. 
 Once the two foremost men actually fell in, and 
 the palankeen came down upon the ground ; but 
 the}^ soon shook themselves, and resumed their 
 position. 
 
 Thus, after perils by land and by water, we 
 at length reached Meerat ; and I made up my 
 mind, that the rainy season was not the plea- 
 santest for travellers. A short time after our 
 arrival there, the inhabitants were alarmed by 
 three separate shocks of an earthquake, which 
 continued a few seconds each. It commenced 
 by a noise, as of heavy waggons travelling ra- 
 pidly on a paved road immediately under the 
 
 7
 
 263 
 
 house ; birds that were in cages, flapping their 
 wings, as if anxious to be free ; doors opening, 
 others shutting, without any person near them. 
 I happened to be passing from one room to ano- 
 ther, and was seized with such a sensation of 
 giddiness in the head, and sickness at the sto- 
 mach, that I was obliged to hold by a door- 
 frame, still more unsteady than myself. In many 
 places the earth opened, and several small huts 
 were swallowed up ; but, fortunately, the inha- 
 bitants had time to make their escape, and no 
 lives were lost that I heard of. All this time 
 the atmosphere was perfectly clear, and not a 
 breath of air was stirring.
 
 A 
 
 GUIDE 
 UP THE RIVER GANGES, 
 
 FROM 
 
 CALCUTTA TO CAWNPORE, FUTTEH GHUR, 
 MEERAT, &c. ; 
 
 THE CORRECT DISTANCES OF EVERY STATION, 
 AND WHAT THEIR PRODUCE.
 
 A 
 
 G U I D E, 
 
 Having experienced both difficulty and delay, 
 from ignorance of this navigation, and the dif- 
 ferent species of accommodation that each sta- 
 tion offers to the voyager, the Author is led to 
 believe that a correct statement of these particu- 
 lars will not be unacceptable, particularly to 
 those who, newly arrived in Bengal, may be un- 
 der the necessity to make the voyage. 
 
 On his arrival in Calcutta, a young man is 
 generally received into the house of some friend, 
 or person to whom he brings an introduction ; 
 (a circumstance of great importance on his thus 
 setting out in life ;) but should he come unpro- 
 vided with such recommendation, he is reduced 
 to the necessity of resorting to a tavern ; of 
 which, although there are several in Calcutta, 
 they are not considered a respectable residence, 
 being for the most part dirty, unpleasantly si- 
 tuated, extravagant in their charges, and fre- 
 quented chiefly by Europeans of the lowest 
 class. 
 
 If in the King's service, a young man's first
 
 268 
 
 step is to wait upon the brigade-major to the 
 King's troops, (who resides in Fort William,) 
 and report the date of his arrival ; from which 
 day his pay and allowances commence. The 
 brigade-major furnishing him with a certificate 
 to this effect, his recommendation will enable a 
 gentleman so applying to procure quarters in 
 the fort — a subaltern officer two rooms, a cap- 
 tain four ; but as these apartments are not fur- 
 nished, such accommodation is only of use to 
 those who are destined to remain there for some 
 time. 
 
 If he happen to be an officer in the service of 
 the East India Company, he should apply in a 
 similar manner to the town-major, who will fur- 
 nish him with the necessary certificates and in- 
 structions. He will perhaps learn from him that 
 he is posted to a regiment in the upper pro- 
 vinces of Hindostan, to which he is directed to 
 proceed by water, and that he will by proper 
 application get his boat expenses paid. The 
 mode of making this application, with the con- 
 sequent preparations for the voyage, it is my in- 
 tention, in as clear a manner as possible, to point 
 out. He must, in the first place, after having 
 procured his certificate, repair to the auditor- 
 general's office, and produce it, stating the or- 
 ders he may have received, and requesting his 
 boat allowance to the place of his destination ; 
 the half of which will be immediately given him.
 
 •269 
 
 and authority to draw for the remainder at a 
 stated period. 
 
 There are but two kind of boats at the same 
 time safe and commodious, and these are called, 
 the one a pinnace, (or small cutter,) the other 
 a budgerow. They are each drawn up the river 
 by men called dandies, with another to guide the 
 helm, named a maiinjie. They each contain a 
 bed-room at the stern, a sitting-room in the 
 centre, and an anti-room in front towards the 
 deck, the whole being surrounded by Venetian 
 blinds. They are hired at so many rupees a 
 month, according to the number of oars : pin- 
 naces, from one hundred and fifty to four hun- 
 dred and twenty rupees a month ; budgerows, 
 from ninety-seven to one hundred and seventy- 
 six. Baggage-boats to accompany the above, 
 from twenty-two to ninety-seven rupees a month. 
 To a budgerow carrying sixteen oars, at one 
 hundred and fifty-seven rupees a month, a bag- 
 gage-boat would be required at thirty-five, and 
 a cooking-boat at twenty- two, which are of suf- 
 ficient size to encounter any weather, and at the 
 same time afford ample accommodation for ser- 
 vants, provisions, &c. The best mode of pro- 
 curing these boats is by application to Messrs. 
 Barber and Co. at the Old Fort Ghaut, who 
 will also furnish hands to navigate them, and 
 become security for their not deserting, a cir- 
 cumstance by no means unusual on this voyage.
 
 270 
 
 which may perhaps be attributed to the custom 
 of advancing the half of their wages to them be- 
 fore they start, in order, as they allege, to ena- 
 ble their families to procure subsistence during 
 their absence. Besides the security given by 
 Barber and Co., I should recommend that a 
 clashee be engaged as a servant to keep guard 
 over, and expedite their movements on the voy- 
 age. This man will also be found useful in pro- 
 curing supplies from the several bazaars hi pas- 
 sant. Some other preparations are also neces- 
 sary, such as poultry, a few fat sheep, a couple 
 of milch goats, (whose milk in this country is 
 free from any particular flavour, and in tea is 
 infinitely preferable to cow's milk,) tea, sugar, 
 a quantity of hard biscuits, bread, cheese, &c. 
 This latter article is not manufactured in India, 
 but may be procured in the China Bazaar at 
 Calcutta, fresh from England, at a moderate 
 price, sometimes even under prime cost. The 
 pine-apple shape is the best for keeping ; and it 
 should be kept in a common earthen jar, with a 
 wet cloth tied over the mouth of it. 
 
 The voyage from Calcutta to Cawnpore is ge- 
 nerally considered to occupy a space of three 
 months ; to Futteh Ghur a week longer ; and to 
 Ghur Moktasir Ghaut, near Meerat, twenty 
 days more. 
 
 Embarking from Calcutta during the months 
 of March, April, or May, it will be necessary
 
 271 
 
 to surround the budgerow with tatties, or blinds, 
 made on a bamboo frame to fit the windows, co- 
 vered with the fibrous roots of a sweet-scented 
 grass called cus cus, which will last the voyage, 
 and by being watered from the top of the budge- 
 row, render the apartments cool and comforta- 
 ble. Although these roots are firmly wove to- 
 gether, they by no means exclude the light. 
 Of an evening, after the sun is set, they are re- 
 moved entirely, and replaced in the morning. 
 The hot wind seldom blows so violently as to 
 require them, except, from about nine o'clock in 
 the morning until sun-set : the hottest time is 
 from twelve o'clock until five in the afternoon. 
 The clashee will procure these tatties, and is 
 the proper person to superintend the watering 
 them, &c. If you have palankeen bearers on 
 board, they ought to assist. 
 
 A small book, called Hadley's Grammar, 
 (which can be purchased at any bookseller's in 
 Calcutta,) is also a necessary appendage to pre- 
 vent being imposed upon by the representation 
 of any servant who may speak a little English, 
 and thereby gain an ascendancy over his master 
 to the prejudice of the rest. These men are fre- 
 quently met with in Calcutta, and are always 
 ready to serve a new comer ; but they are ge- 
 nerally people of low caste, and not to be de- 
 pended upon. 
 
 Leaving Calcutta with the tide, you generally
 
 272 
 
 reach a place called Bally Nuggur before it 
 turns, unless indeed the wind blows strong 
 against you. This place is inhabited entirely 
 by natives. Here you cast anchor, and remain 
 until the tide serves again ; and having passed 
 the Danish settlement of Seraynpore, the French 
 one of Chandanagore, arrive at that of the Dutch 
 called Chifisurah, where you encounter the se- 
 cond tide. You may indeed, if you are fortu- 
 nate, reach a place called Banse Bareah, which 
 is two hours farther; but here nothing is pro- 
 curable except provision for natives. The boats 
 are moored at sun-set, and unmoored at sun- 
 rise, it being dangerous on account of shoals to 
 travel after dark. When you come too, for the 
 night, (which it is adviseable on many accounts 
 to do before sun-set,) the boatmen cook their 
 victuals; which operation is performed on the 
 shore by means of small stoves, formed from a 
 loomy kind of earth of which these banks are 
 composed. Their cooking utensils are not cum- 
 bersome : one large brass, or iron pot, serves to 
 boil rice for all of the same caste, while each 
 man carries his brass platter, and lotUy of the 
 same material, to drink out of. 
 
 It is usual to start the boats at day-break, 
 but they manage it so quietly as not to disturb 
 your repose. 
 
 Sook Sangor is the next place, and is about 
 seven hours from Banse Bareah ; from hence you
 
 273 
 
 may with ease reach Ballypore by sun-set. Milk 
 may be procured at all these villages, and some 
 kinds of vegetable ; but no poultry or eggs, ex- 
 cept where Mussulmen reside. 
 
 Start at day-break next morning, and in eight 
 hours you reach Cidna. From thence to Mirza- 
 pore is five hours farther, where you had better 
 remain for the night, and may procure all sorts 
 of provisions. This place contains many Eu- 
 ropeans, and is celebrated for the manufacture 
 of carpets, printed chintz, &c. Purchase jo?m- 
 kahs here. 
 
 From Mirzapore to Nuddeah is seven hours ; 
 from Nuddeah to the entrance of the Jal'mgy ri- 
 ver, an hour and a half; from the Jalingy to 
 Stuart Gunge, three hours. 
 
 From Stuart Gmige to a small village called 
 Meakpoorak, six hours; and from thence to 
 Chandpoorah, six hours. This latter is a misera- 
 bly poor place ; it is therefore better to stop at 
 the first good bank for legowing upon after 
 quitting Chandpoorah; of this, the mangy or 
 captain of the crew will inform you. It is al- 
 ways desirable to keep him in good humour, by 
 attending a little to his advice, as on him de- 
 pends in a great measure both your expedition 
 and comfort on the voyage. 
 
 From Chandpoorah to Augur Deep is ten hours 
 good pulling, oftener twelve. The river between 
 these places winds so much, that it takes nearly 
 
 T
 
 274 
 
 a day to arrive, where the distance in a straight 
 line would not be above three miles. 
 
 From Augur Deep to Dewarrah Gunge is four 
 hours ; from Dewarrah Gunge to Cutivah, eight 
 more. 
 
 From Cutwah to Plassey (the scene of Lord 
 dive's victory over the Bengalees, which first 
 gave us footing in the country) is nine hours. 
 This is a fine sporting country, but dangerous 
 on account of tigers. 
 
 From Plassey to Satan Gunge is twelve hours ; 
 Sataii Gunge to Rangamutty, four hours ; Ranga- 
 mutty to Berhampore, eight hours. This is the 
 nearest station to Calcutta which contains Eu- 
 ropean soldiers, except the artillery cantonment 
 of Dum Dum ; but that is ten miles on the other 
 side Calcutta, and inland. Berhampore contains 
 besides a King's regiment of infantry, one or 
 more battalions of seapoys, and is famous for 
 sundry manufactures, which they bring to the 
 boats for sale ; such as stockings, silk handker- 
 chiefs, &c. There are, besides, two shops kept 
 by Englishmen, which are well supplied with 
 articles from England of all description, sold at 
 the average of a rupee for a shilling. The of- 
 ficers' barracks are about two hundred yards in- 
 land : they are handsome, and regularly built, 
 forming a square, one side of which fronts the 
 river. The bank on which they stand is high, 
 sloping, and turfed to the water's edge, with 
 
 3
 
 275 
 
 here and there a flight of stone steps for the ac- 
 commodation of passengers. The parade runs 
 along Ihe edge of it. This station is commanded 
 by a general officer, to whom you are expected, 
 through his brigade major, to report your ar- 
 rival, and ask his orders ; and in like manner 
 report progress, as it is called, at every military 
 station upon the river, and also to the adjutant 
 of your regiment, wherever that may be. 
 
 From Berhampore, the city of Moorshedabad is 
 about seven hours tracking, although by land 
 the distance is only seven miles. The river at 
 this place is low at all seasons, and the numerous 
 boats legowed to its banks contribute to impede 
 the voyager. The boat's crew provide them- 
 selves here, with rice for their voyage, it being 
 very plentiful in this part ; and the higher they 
 proceed up the country, the more scarce, and 
 consequently dearer it becomes. Sugar is also 
 remarkably cheap at Moorshedabad. 
 
 A little beyond this city is the entrance of a 
 small river called the Kattaghan, which it is ad- 
 viseable to pass, and to fasten your boat on the 
 opposite side, the inhabitants of Moorshedabad 
 not being famed for honesty. 
 
 From hence to Kissenpoorah (a small village) 
 it is six hours ; from Kissenpoorah to Jungypoor , 
 six more. At the latter is a manufactory for 
 silks, under the control of the commercial resi- 
 dent. 
 
 T 2
 
 276 
 
 From Jungypoor to Sooty is six hours. 
 
 To Kasseinpcor six more. 
 
 From Kusseinpoor to Mohiin Gunge, nine hours ; 
 and from hence to the entrance of the Ganges, 
 three hours more. 
 
 Having now quitted the Baugharetty or Cos- 
 shnhazar river, you proceed by the left bank of 
 the Ganges, v^^ithout seeing more than a few 
 scattered huts, until sun-set. 
 
 From hence to Radge Mahl is seven hours. 
 Here the ruin of a magnificent palace, formerly 
 belonging to the Rajah, may be seen ; and here, 
 every day about noon, the postmen from East to 
 West meet, and exchange their despatches, which 
 affords the traveller an opportunity of communi- 
 cation either way. Bread, vegetables, kid, (which 
 is a great delicacy in this country,) fowls, eggs, 
 fruit, and charcoal, are found here in great 
 abundance. The inhabitants sell also marble 
 slabs to press paper, carved into various shapes. 
 This is almost the widest part of the river, and 
 in the rainy season has the appearance of an 
 ocean. 
 
 From Radge Mahl to Sicherry Gulley is four- 
 teen hours. This is a station for invalid seapoys, 
 with a small bungalow belonging to the superin- 
 tending officer of these establishments. This 
 part of the country abounds with beasts of prey. 
 Radge Mahl is the nearest approach that the ri- 
 ver makes to that ridge of mountains which runs
 
 277 
 
 in a north-west direction from Calcutta, and are 
 called the Radge Mahl hills. 
 
 From hence you quickly pass the small village 
 of Saabad, and in two hours more that of Gunga 
 Pursaad. Here it is adviseable to legow for the 
 night, as you will not find so good a place for 
 many miles. The finest honey in India is to be 
 procured here, and very cheap. From Gunga 
 Pursaad to Sickerry Gully is about five hours' 
 tracking. This is a Hindoo village, and nothing 
 to be got except milk. 
 
 The next village of any consequence is Pier 
 Pontyy which you ought to reach in twelve hours. 
 
 From Pier Poyity to Puttal Guttah is a hard 
 day's pull ; but there is generally a breeze of 
 wind near the hills, which carries the boat for- 
 ward in opposition to the stream. 
 
 The next place is Col Gong, which you may 
 reach about sun-set on the following day. It 
 contains a good bazaar, and the houses of se- 
 veral European officers of the Company's ser- 
 vice who reside here upon their pensions, besides 
 one or two indigo planters. 
 
 Move forward at day-break the following 
 morning, about ten o'clock you will pass a 
 nullah ; and at three reach the populous village 
 of Bogglipore. This is a station for seapoys com- 
 manded by European officers ; a judge, col- 
 lector, &c. A peculiar description of cloth is 
 manufactured here, which takes its name from
 
 278 
 
 the place. It is adviseable to remain at Boggli- 
 pore for the night. The best ghaut to legow at, 
 is called Bibbee Gunge. 
 
 Cast off the boats at day-break, and towards 
 eveningyoii will reach the village oWheaCheraigiie. 
 
 About ten the next morning you will pass the 
 Jifighira Rock, about half-past one the Gurgut 
 Nullah, and at sun-set find nothing but a patch 
 of sand to legow upon ; it is therefore advise- 
 able to stop at the first good ground you meet 
 with, after passing the Nullah. 
 
 The next place is Piei^ Pahar, where the 
 stream runs so strong, that unless you have a 
 breeze to stem it, you will not reach Mojighir 
 until seven or eight at night. At Monghir are 
 some curious hot springs, and many other things 
 worth seeing. It is a large station for invalid 
 seapoys, commanded by a general officer. Birds 
 of beautiful plumage are offered for sale, but 
 they will not live away from their native hills. 
 
 Pass the end of two nullahs, and come to a 
 village inhabited by seapoy pensioners, near 
 Soorage Gurrah, ^ 
 
 From Soorage Gurrah to Bareah, which is a 
 good legowing place, may be done in about 
 seven hours. 
 
 From Bareah to Deiiapore (twenty koss from 
 Monghir) will take the whole day : it is better 
 to legow before you arrive there, as a koss or 
 two beyond it, you will find nothing but sand.
 
 279 
 
 Pass a bungalow at Sennaar, and come too at 
 the village of Bar, about four koss farther, 
 where, as there are Mussulmen inhabitants, 
 many articles of consumption are procurable. 
 The water about Bar is shallow, and the cur- 
 rent rather strong. 
 
 About six miles from Bar is an indigo factory. 
 
 Pass Bidapore. 
 
 From Bar to Patna is full twenty-four hours. 
 
 From Patna to D'mapore about eight hours. 
 
 At Seerpoor, a little beyond Dinapoix, the 
 boat's crew lay in a stock of rice for the re- 
 mainder of the voyage. 
 
 Pass the Soane River, which is famous for 
 beautiful pebbles and fine clear water, to Che- 
 raigne, Wilton Gunge, and Chuprah, 
 
 From Chuprah to Revel Gunge is three koss 
 and a half, a good legowing place. 
 
 Pass the mouth of the Deewah River, and 
 reach Berhampore Ghaut by sun-set. 
 
 Pass the village of Berreah, and come too for 
 the night at a small place on the right, about 
 two koss beyond it. 
 
 About eleven o'clock the next morning pass 
 Bulleah, and reach the fort of Buxar in the 
 evening. At Buxar it is necessary to wait on 
 the commanding officer. 
 
 Pass the Caramnassa River to the village of 
 Chowra. 
 
 From Chowra you proceed to Arampore, and
 
 280 
 
 from Arampore to Ghazipore, which is a large mi- 
 litary station. Report your arrival to the com- 
 manding officer. 
 
 From Ghazipore you come to Zemhieah, Chur- 
 sapore, and to an indigo factory at Danapoora^ 
 in twelve hours. 
 
 From Danapoora you may reach Sidepoor in 
 seven hours ; to the end of the Goomty, (or wind- 
 ing river,) in two hours more ; Kytee, in one 
 hour; and Kataroury, in two hours. This place 
 is a koss and a half (about three miles) from 
 Bulwar Ghaut. 
 
 Move next morning at six o'clock, you will 
 pass Bulwar Ghaut about nine ; a small brick 
 town named Kylee, about two ; and reach Radge 
 Ghaut, at Be?iares, in the evening, in good time 
 to legow. 
 
 From Benai^es to opposite little Mursapore 
 takes about three hours fair tracking ; and to 
 the cantonment at Sultanporey (or chutah Cal- 
 cutta,) nine hours more. 
 
 From Hultanpore to the fort at Chunar, six 
 hours. 
 
 From Chunar to Badsulah, (on the other side 
 the river,) ten hours. 
 
 From Badsulah to Kiitchwah Ghaut, six hours. 
 
 From Kutchwah Ghaut to Mirzapore, seven 
 hours. 
 
 From Mirzapore to Jehangeerabad is three 
 hours.
 
 281 
 
 From Jelumgeer abaci to Baliaderpoorah , five 
 hours and a half. 
 
 From Bahaderpoorah to Charracoar, five hours. 
 
 From Charracoar to Diggah, (distant only ten 
 koss in a straight line from Mirzapore,) five 
 hours. 
 
 From Diggah to Barrarie, seven hours. 
 
 From Barrarie to Tellah, four hours. 
 
 From Tellah to Sersah, ten hours. 
 
 From Sersah to Dumdumaye, three hours. 
 
 From T>umdumaye to Derah, twelve hours. 
 
 From Derah to the fort at Allahabad^ seven or 
 eight hours, if the wind is not against you, and 
 the water calm ; but the stream in this part is 
 very strong, and the river in many places very 
 shallow ; it is therefore adviseable to land on the 
 Jumna side of the fort, and proceeding across 
 the promontory in a palankeen, sending the 
 boats round to a place called Taylor GungCy 
 which will take them nearly a day to accom- 
 plish. At Allahabad supplies of every descrip- 
 tion rriay be procured. Here it is necessary to 
 wait upon the commanding officer in the fort, and 
 report your name, rank, and destination. 
 
 From Taylor Gunge to Ramohowdah, (ten koss 
 by land from Allahabad,) will take ten hours. 
 
 From Ramohowdah to Jehanabad, three hours. 
 
 From Jehanabad to Acbarpore, four hours. 
 
 From Acbarpore to Konkerabad, six hours and 
 a half. 
 
 8
 
 282 
 
 Prom Kotikerabad to Shaio Zadabad, four hours. 
 
 From Shaw Zadabad to Kurrah, three hours. 
 Muslin and cloth of the coarser kinds are manu- 
 factured here. 
 
 From Kurrah to Maunickpore, three hours and 
 a half. 
 
 From Mamiickpore to Kerah Nugger, six 
 hours. 
 
 From Kerah Nugger to Bunderpoor, one hour 
 and a half. 
 
 From Bunderpoor to Nobusta Ghaut, five hours 
 and a half. 
 
 From Nobusta to Ochree, six hours and a 
 half. 
 
 From Ochree to Dal?7iow the river is particu- 
 larly shallow, and abounds in quick-sands; it 
 is therefore almost impossible to say how long 
 a budgerow will take tracking it, as the dandies 
 are obliged to walk the greatest part of the dis- 
 tance up to their waists in water, and are fre- 
 quently detained to push the boat off a sand- 
 bank. If no such impediment should occur, 
 the usual time is about eight hours. 
 
 From Dalmow you pass the villages of Kut- 
 terah, Garasseu, and Singpore, on the left ; while 
 on the right stand those of Kosroopore, Hajijwre, 
 and Adempore. Reach Rowaadpore from Dalmow 
 in twelve hours. 
 
 Rowaadpore to Buxar and Doreah Kerah, in 
 seven hours.
 
 283 
 
 Doreah Kerah to Sooragepore, three hours. 
 
 Sooragepore to Nuseeb Ghur, ten hours. At 
 the latter is a large brick house built by Gene- 
 ral Martine, a Frenchman. He had another 
 large house at Lucknow, and a fine estate near 
 it called Lac Peery, which means a thousand 
 trees. On this spot he erected a superb palace 
 and tomb : the latter he soon after occupied. 
 He was a man of low origin, great abilities, and 
 made immense sums of money by various spe- 
 culations. He came to India an adventurer, 
 was formerly a general in the Mahratta service, 
 but latterly a general merchant. His character 
 was most eccentric : he caused two centinels of 
 wood, the height and size of men, dressed in the 
 uniform of a British artilleryman, to be placed 
 on either side his tomb, where a lamp is kept 
 constantly burning. He has directed by his 
 will that the house at Lac Peery should be at the 
 service of any European gentleman, or lady, to 
 reside in for one month at a time, but no longer. 
 It is in charge of the officer commanding at 
 Lucknow. A large sum of money is also be- 
 queathed to his native city of Lyons, in France. 
 The origin of this man's fortune is said to have 
 been collecting dead leaves, and selling them to 
 the natives for fuel. 
 
 From Nuseeb Ghur to J\Iadarpore, seven hours. 
 
 Madarpore to Jaugemoiv, three hours.
 
 284 
 
 Jaugemmv to the east end of Cawn'pore^ five 
 hours. 
 
 Cawwporc is the largest military station, and 
 depot in the upper provinces, or indeed on this 
 side of India. It is six miles in extent, and con- 
 tains excellent accommodation for ten thousand 
 troops. 
 
 From Cawnpore to Betoor takes twelve hours. 
 This place is a station for civilians, vs^ho manage 
 the revenue and judicial departments at Cawn- 
 pore, from which it is distant about twelve koss. 
 It is celebrated by the Hindoos as one of their 
 most ancient places of worship, and is therefore 
 resorted to, at particular seasons of the year, by 
 an immense concourse of people, who line the 
 banks of the Ganges for many miles. 
 
 From Betoor to the village of Dyepore is about 
 twelve hours. Here is a bungalow and an in- 
 digo factory. 
 
 Dyepore to the entrance of the Ram Gonga ri- 
 ver, is twelve hours. 
 
 To Singer ampore, twelve more. 
 
 Si.igeramporc to Futty Ghiir, twelve hours— 
 that is, from sun-rise to sun-set. 
 
 From Futty Ghur it is about twenty days' 
 tracking to Ghur Moktasir Ghaut, (the nearest 
 point at which a boat can approach Meerat.) 
 Pass many small villages, but no place worthy 
 notice until you reach the large brick town of
 
 285 
 
 Kurrah, about the second or third day from 
 Futty Ghur. 
 
 Remember to lay in a stock of supplies for 
 one month before you leave Futty Ghur, as no- 
 thing more can be got until you arrive at Meerat. 
 
 From Kurrahy two or three hours brings you 
 to Sooragcpore, a small Hindoo village. 
 
 Sooragepore to Budrowlee, eight hours. This is 
 capital legowing ground, except that the banks 
 are low, and a number of alligators are generally 
 to be seen upon them ; a great variety of water- 
 fowl frequent also this part of the river, particu- 
 larly wild geese, in such flights as often to darken 
 the atmosphere. 
 
 From Budrowlee you pass an uninteresting 
 country to Oolye Ghaut, and from thence to 
 Heronpore. 
 
 From Heronpore to Kirhawara, near which 
 place much wheat is cultivated. 
 
 Kirhawara to Ram Ghaut, where there is a 
 superb palace built by the Rajah of Jyepoor. 
 Hindoos flock here in great numbers at stated 
 periods of the year to make offerings to the 
 Ganges, and perform ablutions. Ram Ghaut 
 was formerly the resort of Scindia and the Mah- 
 ratta chiefs. The palace is built upon a rising 
 ground, about a hundred yards from the shore : 
 it fronts the river — is surrounded by lofty trees. 
 At the bottom of the garden is a flight of stone 
 steps, upon an extensive scale, leading into the
 
 28G 
 
 river. The town appears flourishing, and is 
 built down to the water's edge. 
 
 A number of projecting banks impede the 
 progress of the navigator until he reaches Anop- 
 sheer, which is considered about half way be- 
 tween Futty Ghur and Meerat. 
 
 The shores now assume a more pleasing 
 prospect : luxuriant pasture, with numerous 
 herds of cattle feeding on it, relieves the eye ; 
 and the adjacent country appears well wooded. 
 
 The village of Ahar^ contains some good brick 
 houses, and a handsome Ghaut; but the river 
 near it is very shallow. 
 
 At Bussy Gusserat, the next place of any con- 
 sequence, there is capital legowing ground ; 
 and farther on, a village called Sukerah Telah, a 
 great mart for trade. 
 
 To Sukerah Telah succeeds the village of Poote, 
 where some Hindoo places of worship render 
 the scene peculiarly picturesque. The most 
 striking feature is a spacious flight of stone 
 steps, highly ornamented, and shaded by trees 
 down a sloping bank to the water's edge. 
 
 From this place to Ghm^ Moktasir Ghaut, is 
 not more than a day's tracking. 
 
 Meerat lies about forty miles inland from Ghur 
 Moktasir Ghaut.
 
 VOCABULARY 
 
 ADAPTED TO THE TOUR. 
 
 Arampoore — Aram means ease, and poore a vil- 
 lage. 
 
 Bungalow — is a cottage ornee. 
 
 Bunyah — a man who sells grain in a bazaar. 
 
 Charpiah — a bedstead without posts or tester. 
 Co?yy — rice boiled in water. 
 Cummerbund — a breadth of cloth round the 
 loins. 
 
 Dak — travelling post with relays of bearers. 
 Dakoity — banditti. 
 Deen — religion, or light. 
 
 Dock — a shrub with large leaves and thick 
 stem. 
 
 Fakeer—d, mendicant priest, either Mahometan 
 or Hindoo. 
 
 Gold mohars — a gold coin, value two pounds 
 English. 
 
 Jow jungle — underwood , brushwood.
 
 288 
 
 Khan — a nobleman that collects the royal re- 
 venue, and raises militia regiments. 
 
 Kinkob — any silk that is brocaded with silver or 
 gold. 
 
 Koss — two thousand six hundred ordinary paces. 
 
 Legow — to make fast a boat. 
 
 Mirza — a prince. 
 
 Moolah — a Mahometan priest. 
 
 AIullick—?i.n eider. So great respect have the 
 natives towards these, that if they wish to 
 pay you any particular compliment, they say, 
 " Ap mullick hi," which is, '' You are an 
 elder;" meaning to infer, that you speak, or 
 act, like an elder. 
 
 Nullah — a stream of water. 
 
 Pahar — a hill. 
 
 Pice — a small copper coin, which differs in va- 
 lue under different governments. What they 
 call the pukkah pice, is about three half- 
 pence English : three cutchah pice go to one 
 pukkah. They have also some shells called 
 cowries, which pass for coin of a still inferior 
 value. From these also a very beautiful paste 
 is made, that is often put on the inner walls 
 of apartments to imitate alabaster. 
 
 Punkah — a fan made of the leaf of the cocoa- 
 nut tree, painted in gaudy colours; or any 
 machine that causes a circulation of air.
 
 289 
 
 Ranee — the wife of a Rajah. 
 
 Salaam — an obeisance made by looking on the 
 
 ground, and touching the forehead with three 
 
 fingers of the right hand. 
 Shaw — a king. 
 Shaw Naumeh — a celebrated heroic poem, written 
 
 by Ferdausi, a Persian poet. 
 Sissoo — a timber which resembles mahogany, of 
 
 which there are immense forests in India. 
 
 Tusleem — the salaam repeated three times fol- 
 lowing. 
 
 Zemeendar — a landholder, answering to our gen- 
 tleman farmer. 
 Zenanah — women's apartments. 
 
 N. B. When a native of India writes to a superior, it is always 
 upon paper spotted with gold.
 
 VOCABULARY 
 
 ADAPTED TO THE VOYAGE. 
 
 Badul — thunder. 
 Bhallu — sand. 
 Bullow— call (any one.) 
 
 Chellijow — Move quickly. 
 
 Daal — an oar. 
 
 Daal mokoof kur — Stop the oars. 
 
 Daal kench — Pull the oars. 
 
 Dandies — boatmen. 
 
 Douccra naar — another boat. 
 
 Geah — gone. 
 
 Goleah — the steersman. 
 
 Goon — rope fastened to the mast-head, by which 
 
 they tow the boat. 
 Gungah — the Ganges. 
 
 Howah — wind. 
 
 Je/^f'i— quick. 
 
 Jw^e ko paunet — strong stream.
 
 291 
 
 Kimmry — th e sli o re . 
 
 Koldo — to open. 
 
 Ktitchaar^-di steep overhanging bank. 
 
 Legow — fasten. 
 
 Luggee—\ong bamboo poles used to push off the 
 
 boat. 
 Lungur — an anchor. 
 
 Mastule — a mast. 
 
 Mhangy — captain of the boat's crew. 
 
 Naar — a boat. 
 
 Naar koldo — Unmoor the boat. 
 
 Nullah — a stream. 
 
 Oivtah — coming. 
 
 Pankah — a muddy beach. 
 
 Paul — a sail. 
 
 Pawnee, burstia, lugga — It's going to rain. 
 
 P.0 — Stay. 
 
 Soono — Do you hear? 
 
 Tiphaan — a storm. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED BY R. GILBERT, 
 
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