HANDBOOK 
 
 FOK 
 
 ESSEX, SUFFOLK, NORFOLK, 
 
 AND 
 
 CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 WITH ^iAP AND PLANS. 
 
 I T Tl T 
 
 I » * 
 
 LONDON: 
 JOHN MUKRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 1870. 
 
 The right of Tramlatiun is raerveJ. 
 
• 
 
 ^l^^^ 
 
 lonuok: puikted by william clowes and sons, stamfokd stkket 
 
 AND CriABING CROSS. 
 
PEE FACE. 
 
 The Handbook for tlie four Eastern Counties, — Essex, SuffolJ^, 
 Norfolk, and CamhridgesTiire, — is arranged on tlie same plan 
 as those Handbooks for other parts of England which have 
 already been published, and is based upon personal know- 
 ledge of those counties. 
 
 The Editor desires to acknowledge the ready kindness 
 with which assistance and information have been supplied 
 to him. In all four counties he has received such help as 
 is necessary to ensure the accuracy of any Handbook for 
 Travellers. 
 
 It is requested that notices of errors or omissions ma}^ 
 be sent to the Editor, care of Mr. Murray, 50a, Albemarle 
 Street. 
 
 ^SIO 
 
EKKATA. 
 
 Pago xlv. (S: 188, /o>-Framlingham, read Framingham Earl and 
 
 Framingham Pigot. 
 „ 189, for Bexley, read Bixley. 
 „ 231, /or Rev. W. Gunn, read Rev. J. Gunn. 
 
 . Since the greater part of this Handbook was in type, it has been officially 
 stated that the number of unenclosed acres, within the old limits of 
 Epping Forest, has been reduced to 3000. This will account for the 
 difference between the statement in Rte. 10, that 7000 acres remain 
 unenclosed, and that in the Introduction, § 2, where the true number 
 is given ; the former number was adopted from the Parliamentary Report 
 on Royal Forests, printed in 1863. 
 
( ^ ; 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Essex vii 
 
 East Anglia (Norfolk and Suffolk) xxii 
 
 Cambridgeshire liii 
 
 Skeleton Tours ,. ,. Ixxiii 
 
 Section I.— ESSEX. 
 ROUTES. 
 
 *^* The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are 
 
 described. 
 
 1. London to Southend (by rail). 
 
 Barking, Grays - Thurrock, 
 Tilbury, Hadleigh, Shoebury- 
 ness 
 
 2. London to Ipswich. Havering, 
 Mountnessiiig, Ingatestone, 
 Chelmsford, Boreham, 'Witham, 
 Kelvedon, Coggeshall, Layer 
 Maimey, Lexden, Colchester 
 
 3. London to Braintree. Brain- 
 tree by Dunmow to Bishop's 
 Stortford. [_Tha.xted^ . . 
 
 4. London to Maldon. \Otho7ia.'\ 
 
 5. London to Southend, by Brent- 
 wood, Eayleigh, and Roch- 
 ford. [^Ashington.l 
 
 6. Colchester to Brightlingsea 
 and Walton-on-the-Naze. Mer- 
 
 15 
 
 40 
 46 
 
 49 
 
 ROUTE 
 
 sea 
 
 [ Wivenhoe, St. 
 
 Island. 
 OsytKs'] 
 
 7. London to Harwich. \_Dover- 
 
 court'] 56 
 
 8. Cohhe&iQv \o Sudbury .. .. 60 
 
 9. Colchestei' to Haverhill, by 
 Halstead and Castle Heding- 
 ham. \_Earrs Colne, Gosfield, 
 Little Maplestead.^ 
 
 10. London to Chipping Ongar. 
 Ongar to Diuimow. [ Wood- 
 ford, Chigii-ell, Epping Forest, 
 
 Greenstead, Fleshy'] 
 
 1 1 . London to Cambridge by Walt- 
 ham and Bishop's Stortford. 
 \_Enfield, Waltham Abbey, 
 High Laver, Audley End, 
 Saffron Walden] 82 
 
 63 
 
 72 
 
 Section II.— SUFFOLK. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 1. London to Ipswich, the Orwell 102 
 
 2. Bentley Junction to Hadleigh. 
 
 Little Wenham 112 
 
 3. Sudbury to Thetford by Bury 
 
 St. Edmund's. Long Melford, 
 Lavenham, Ickworth, Hen- 
 grave, Barton 115 
 
 4. Sudbury to Cambridge bv Clare 
 
 and Haverhill .. '.. .. 140 
 
 5. Ipswich to Yarmouth, by Wood- 
 
 bridge and Lowestoft. Orford, 
 Framlingharn, Aldborough, 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 Dunwich, Southwold, Somcr- 
 leyton, Burgh Castle .. .. 144 
 
 6. Ipswich to Newmarket by Bury 
 
 St. Edmund's. Stowmarket, 
 Woolpit 167 
 
 7. Ipswich to Norwich by Deben- 
 
 ham, Eye, and Diss ,. ,. 171 
 
 8. Ipswich to Norwich by Stow- 
 
 market, i^mm^r/iam, and Mellis 174 
 
 9. Bury St. Edmund's to Bungay 
 
 and Beccles. Oakley, Wing- 
 field, Mettingham 174 
 
( vi ) 
 
 Sectiox\ III.— XOEFOLK. 
 E U T E S. 
 
 KOUTE 
 1. 
 
 2. 
 
 185 
 
 221 
 
 235 
 
 London to Norwich by Ipswich 
 Norwich to Yarmouth and 
 Lowestoft, The Broads, Cais- 
 ter Castle 
 
 3. Norwich to North Walshnm. 
 
 Worsted, Mundesley, Brom- 
 holrn 
 
 4. Norwich to Cromer by Ayls- 
 
 ham. Caicston, Salle, Blick- 
 ling, Felbrigge 240 
 
 5. Cromer to Wells by Holt. Bin- 
 
 ham, Holhham, Burnham 
 Thorpe 
 
 6. Norwich to East Dereham by 
 
 Wgmondham. Kctteringham, 
 Kimberleij , Hinghnm, Elsing 
 
 7. East Dereham to King's Lynn 
 
 251 
 
 262 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 by Sicaffham. Castle Acre, 
 Oxbicrgh, Narford, Houghton 271 
 
 8. East Dereham to Wells by 
 Fakenham and Walsingham. 
 Rainham, East Barsham .. 285 
 
 9. King's Lynn to Wells by Hun- 
 stanton, Castle Rising, Sand- 
 ringham, Snettisham, Bran- 
 coster 293 
 
 10. Lynn to Wisbeach. Tlie Marsh- 
 land, Terrington, Tilney, 
 Walpole, Sutton Bridge 
 
 Lynn to Ely by Downham 
 Market. Eau Brink Cut .. 
 
 Norwich to Ely by Attle- 
 borough and Thetford. Bucken- 
 ham, NorthiMold, Mildenhall 307 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 300 
 
 305 
 
 Section IV.— CAMBEIDGESHIRE. 
 
 K U T E S. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE ROUTE PAGE 
 
 1. London to C'am6rjdV/e by Chester- 5. Cambridge to Wisbeach, by St. 
 
 ford 316i Ives, Chatteris, and 'March .. 430 
 
 2. Camhvidze to Newmarket .. 385'*^- L^"^^". *«, Cambridge by 
 
 Hitchm and ^oysio?i ., .. 434 
 
 7. Royston to Huntingdon. [TTi'm- 
 
 pole'] 436 
 
 3. Cambridge to Ely. The Isle of 
 
 Ely 390 
 
 4. Ely to Peterborough by March 
 
 and Whittlesea. [^Thorney 
 Abbey] 426 
 
 8. Cambridge to Bedford .. .. 440 
 
 9. Cambi'idge to Sudbury by Haver- 
 hill. [Bartlow] 441 
 
 Index 445 
 
 Map and Plans. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Plan of Cambridge 318 
 
 ., Colchester 31 
 
 Travelling I\Iap at end. 
 
( ™ ) ' '« / ^ It 
 
 The four counties, Essex, Suffolk, Xorfolk, and Cambridge.sliire, 
 described iu the j)resent Handbook, have been, chiefly in the earlier 
 period of English history, more or less connected. But while Norfolk 
 and Suffolk form together a very distinct natural division, Essex and 
 Cambridgeshire are geographically more isolated, and have their own 
 characteristic features. Essex, separated from Suffolk by the broad 
 estuary of the Stour, was anciently covered for the most part with 
 forest. Cambridgeshire is the country of the fens. Each of these 
 divisions therefore requires separate notice. 
 
 I. 
 
 ESSEX. 
 
 Page Page 
 
 Extent and General Charac- \ Antiquities xv 
 
 TER vii Geology xix 
 
 History xi Traveller's View xxi 
 
 Extent and General Character. 
 
 § 1. Essex, the tenth in size of English counties, contains 1533 
 square miles, or 983,443 statute acres. Its greatest length from N.E. 
 to S.W. is 63 m. From N. to. S. (from Bartlow to Tilbury Fort) it 
 measures 50 m. The population of the county in 1861 was 379,705 — 
 a considerable increase since 1851, when it was 344,110. 
 
 Essex is very irregularly shaped ; and its low coast-line is broken by 
 three considerable estuaries, — those of the Crouch, the Blackwater, and 
 the Colne. Numerous friths and creeks break the land, especially near 
 the mouths of these estuaries, into low, marshy islands. On the S. the 
 Thames divides Essex from Kent. On the N. the river Stour, through- 
 out its course, forms the boundary from the neighbourhood of Clare to 
 Harwich, and divides Essex from Suffolk. The rest of the Northern 
 boundary, between Essex and Cambridgeshire, is very irregular, and 
 partly follows the course of ancient roads and dykes. On the W., 
 where Essex borders on Middlesex and Hertfordshire, the limit is partly 
 marked by the rivers Lea and Stort ; and N. of Bishop's Stortford, by a 
 line ruDuing along the chalk hills. Excepting the low lands of the 
 eastern coast, Essex is not a flat country, although the hills no where 
 rise to any important height. High Beech (Rte. 10), in Epping Forest, 
 
 o 
 
viii Extent and General Character. Essex. 
 
 near Walthamstow, is the highest ground (7G0 ft.) in the county. 
 Danbury (Rte. 2), toward the centre of the county, a very conspicuous 
 hill (700 ft.), forms the S. end of a short ridge of high land. The 
 N.W. corner of Essex is broken into steep chalk hills, of no great 
 height, intersected by winding valleys. " The shire," writes Norden, 
 in 1594, "is most fatt, frutefull, and full of profitable thinges, exceed- 
 ing (as far as 1 can finde) auie other shire, for the generall comodeties, 
 and the plentie. Though Suffolke be more highlie comended of some, 
 wherwyth I am not yet acquaynted. But this shire seemeth to me to 
 deserve the title of the Englishe Goshen, the fattest of the lande ; 
 comparable to Palestina, that flowed w'ith milke and hunnye. But I 
 cannot coinende the healthfulness of it ; and especiallie near the sea 
 coastes, Rochford, Denge, Tenderinge hundreds, and other lowe places 
 about the creekes, which gave me a most cruell quarterne fever. But 
 the manie and sweete comodeties countervayle the daunger." " A fair 
 country," writes Fuller (1662, 'Worthies,' Essex), " plentifully affording 
 all things necessary to man's subsistence." Essex is described as 
 " enclosed " — that is, its cultivated lands were duly fenced, unlike 
 great part of Norfolk, Suffolk, and Cambridgeshire at a much later 
 period — when Morant published his ' History of the County in 1768,' 
 " making it," he says, " much more comfortable to hve and travel in 
 than such as is quite open, exposed, without the least shelter to all the 
 inclemencies of wind and weather." 
 
 § 2. The earlier condition of Essex was very different. Almost 
 the whole county was within the bounds of a Royal Forest, which, 
 according to a perambulation made in 1228 (12th Hen. III.), extended 
 from Stratford bridge " usque ad pontem de Cattawad " (Morant, Introd. 
 p. iv., note C. In Morant's map Cattawade bridge is marked near the 
 mouth of the Stour, adjoining Manningtree. It was thus on the 
 Northern border of Tendring Hundred), and from the Thames to 
 the Stane Street (the Roman road running from Colchester to Bishop's 
 Stortford). The portions of the county excepted in this perambulation 
 had been disafforested — Tendring Hundred, the peninsula between the 
 rivers Colne and Stour, lying E. of Colchester, by King Stephen, and 
 all the country N. of the Stane Street by King John. Smaller portions 
 were disafforested at different times ; but in the reign of Charles I. a 
 court was held at Stratford which asserted the right of the Crown to 
 exercise " forest law " over the whole county within the limits of 
 Hen. Ill.'s perambulation (see ' Strafford's Letters,' i. 335). Extreme 
 dissatisfaction w^as the result of this decision, and the royal rights w^ere 
 not strictl}^ enforced, though much oppression was complained of until 
 an act of the " Long Parliament " (16th Charles 1.) determined that 
 the extent of the royal forests should remain according to their 
 boundaries in the 20th year of James I., annulling all the perambula- 
 tions and inquests by which they had subsequently been enlarged. 
 The great Forest of Waltham was at that time held to comprise what 
 are now the Forests of Epping and Hainault. The portion called 
 Hainault Forest was disafforested in 1851 (see Rte. 10). Epping alone 
 
Introd., §§ 3, 4. History. ix 
 
 (Rte. 10) now represents the old royal forest of Essex ; and tlie unen- 
 closed portion does not at present (1870) exceed 3000 acres. 
 
 The De Veres, Earls of Oxford (see Ete. 9) were for man}^ generations 
 Stewards of the Forest of E^ssex — succeeding the Clares, who were 
 Stewards from the reign of Henry III. to that of Edward II T. They 
 had considerable rights within its boundaries ; and were always keepers 
 of the palace at Havering. The office of King's Forester was long held 
 b}" the Auchers of Copped Hall. 
 
 § 3. Besides Epping Forest, great part of Essex retains much 
 wood ; and the extensive and unusual employment of timber for church 
 towers (see Mountnessing and Margaretting, Rte. 2), and even for the 
 piers of churches (Shenfield, Rte. 2), besides the wocd-framed cottages, 
 once scattered over the country (some of which were very picturesque), 
 indicate the great plenty of timber anciently to be found in Essex, and, 
 as distinctly, the want of good building stone. 
 
 The most important of the Essex rivers — the Stour, the Colne, the 
 Pant or Blackwater, the Chelmer, and the Rodon or Roding, rise among 
 the chalk hills in the N.W. corner of the county, and traverse nearly 
 its entire breadth before reaching the sea. The Crouch rises near the 
 Langdon Hills (Rte. 1) in the S. of Essex. The sea coast of Essex, 
 and the low land called the " Hundreds," the malaria of which so 
 greatly aiSictcd Master Norden, have, owing to improved drainage and 
 more careful management, become far more healthy than they were 
 even within the present century. 
 
 History. 
 
 § 4. The country afterwards known as Essex first appears in history 
 as a portion of the territory of the Trinobantes (wdiicli may also have 
 been extended over part of the present Middlesex). Dr. Guest, how- 
 ever, has suggested that the larger part of the metropolitan county was 
 in those early times a march of the Catuvellauni (the tribe which 
 adjoined the Trinobantes on the E.), " a common, through which ran 
 a wide trackway, but in which was neither town, village, nor inhabited 
 house." — Campaitjn of Aulus Flautius, ' Archasol. Journal,' vol. xxiii. 
 At the time of Caesar's invasion the " kingdom" of the Trinobantes had 
 been seized by the famous Cassivellaunus, chief of the Catuvellauni, who 
 had become the master of all the neighbouring tribes. Mandubratius, 
 the young chief of the Trinobantes, fled to Caesar ; and after the first 
 defeat of Cassivellaunus the Trinobantes sent messengers to Ccesar, 
 offering to submit to him on condition that he would restore Mandu- 
 bratius to the sovereignty of his tribe. This was accordingly done ; 
 and Mandubratius returned to rule as a Roman tributary, while the 
 Trinobantes, besides giving hostages, supplied the Roman army with 
 corn — a proof that some portion of their territory was already under 
 cultivation. Thus much we gather from the ' Commentaries.' From 
 the time of Caesar to that of Claudius, there is little information con- 
 cerning Britain. Tasciovanus seems to have succeeded to the power 
 
 a 3 
 
X History. EssKx. 
 
 of Cassivellaimus, and to have fixed his capital at Yerulamium (St. 
 Alban's). His son Cunobeline — the Cymbeline of Shakespeare — esta- 
 blished his chief town at Camulodunum (Colchester), as is proved by 
 numerous coins struck there, bearing the names of Cunobeline, and 
 of the town. Cunobeline was clearly a powerful chieftain ; but it 
 does not appear whether he belonged to the tribe of the Trinobantes, 
 or whether he had established himself in the territory of that tribe 
 by conquest. One of his sons was Caractacus, defeated by Aulus 
 Plautius, the lieutenant of Claudius, during that campaign in Britain 
 which began in the year 43 (Caractacus was captured in the year 50). 
 After the first defeat of Caractacus, Togidumnus, his brother, was 
 killed in a battle, which possibly took place in Essex, near the mouth 
 of the Thames. Claudius himself then appeared on the scene. Again 
 the Britons were defeated, and Claudius, advancing with his famous 
 • elephants, took Camulodunum, which was occupied by the Pioman 
 legions. Under Ostorius Scapula, who afterwards arrived as Propraetor 
 of Britain, Camulodunum was raised to the rank of a Colonia, and 
 made the head-quarters of the Eoman power. Veteran soldiers were 
 established there, among whom the conquered lands were divided. 
 Camulodunum was adorned with numerous public buildings, including 
 a theatre and a temple of Claudius. It is clear that in dignity and 
 architectural importance it was not, until long afterwards, exceeded by 
 any citj'' of Eoman Britain. 
 
 When the Iceni revolted, after the death of Prasutagus, and the 
 savage treatment of Boadicea (see ' East Anglia/ post), the Trino- 
 bantes joined them. They hated their Eoman masters ; and they 
 looked, says Tacitus, " upon the temple dedicated to Claudius as a 
 kind of citadel to hold them in perpetual bondage." Signs of the 
 coming outbreak were not wanting, according to the same historian. 
 " At Camulodunum the statue of Kero fell to the ground, and turned 
 its back where the face had been, as if it fled before the enemy. 
 Women were seen as if mad, singing wild songs, in which they foretold 
 the destruction of the colony. Strange noises were heard in the 
 House of Assembly, and loud bowlings in the theatre. In the estuary 
 of the Thames there was an appearance like that of a sunken town. 
 The sea assumed the colour of blood, and human forms appeared to be 
 left on the shore by the ebbing tide." The Colonists applied to the 
 Procurator for troops. Only 200 men were sent. The insurrection 
 broke out. " Everything but the temple was plundered and burnt at 
 the first attack ; and the temple itself, in which the soldiers had taken 
 refuge, was captured after a siege of two days." 
 
 The ninth legion, under Petilius Cerealis, hastened to the relief of 
 Camulodunum, but arrived too late. The insurgents attacked, and 
 utterly defeated him, completely destroying his infantry. The cavalry, 
 with Cerealis himself, fled to their stationary camp, which seems to 
 have been in, or close to, the Trinobantine country. It has been 
 thought that a remarkable mound and sepulchral deposit at Wormin<j- 
 ford (Ete. 8) m'ay indicate the place of this great defeat. 
 
In trod., § 5. History, xi 
 
 The Iceni and the Trinobantes, their allies, were reduced to entire 
 submission — if, indeed, they were not almost extirpated — by the great 
 battle, in which Suetonius defeated Boadicea (see ' East Anglia,' 2^ost). 
 It has been suggested that this battle may have been fought at Messing 
 (see Essex, lUe. 1). Camulodunum was restored. It had hitherto 
 been without walls ; and it is probable that the massive walls, of 
 which so much still remains, were constructed at this period. The 
 town recovered more than its former importance ; and until the extinc- 
 tion of the Eoman power in Britain, was one of the principal strong- 
 holds in the S. of the Island. 
 
 During the later Eoman period the coast of Essex was under the 
 control of the " Count of the Saxon Shore." The name of " the Saxon 
 Shore," no doubt, indicates that at the end of the fourth, and the 
 beginning of the fifth centuries, Britain was occasionally attacked by 
 Saxon pirates. But it does not necessarily imply that any Teutonic 
 settlements had been then made in this island ; and the Eoman 
 fortresses, built for the defence of the shore (Othona in Essex, see 
 Ete. 4 ; Burgh Castle in Suifolk ; Brancaster in Norfolk ; Eeculver 
 and Kichborough in Kent), seem to prove that the name was given to 
 the " shore/' as the Welsh March was named in England, from its 
 lying near to the Saxons, and exposed to their ravages (see Freeman, 
 ' Norman Conquest/ i., i}p. 11, 12). At any rate, if any such settlements 
 existed, they must have been of a very different character from those 
 which resulted in the formation of the kingdom of Essex. 
 
 § 5. While the country of the " North and South folk " was colonised 
 by Anglians, Essex, as its name imports (the country of the " East 
 Sexe "= Saxons), and as Bede (i. c. 15) expressly tells us, was one of the 
 three Saxon kingdoms (the others were Sussex and Wessex), peopled 
 from Old Saxony on the continent. The first recorded king is Ercon- 
 wine (circ. 526) ; and the East Saxon kings seem to have retained 
 their independent condition until the year 823, when, like the people 
 of Kent, Surrey, and Sussex, the East Saxons " turned to " Egbert of 
 Wessex, submitting to him as a deliverer from the power of Mercia 
 (' A.-S. Chronicle/ ad ann.). Essex, like the other small kingdoms, 
 was then closely incorporated with Wessex. Middlesex, containing the 
 great city of London, seems to have been an offshoot from Essex ; but 
 London, at all events, soon became an independent commonwealth, 
 and afterwards a dependency of the Mercian kings. After the great 
 Danish invasion of 870, when King Edmund of East Anglia died 
 a martyr (see ' East Anglia/ post), it appears that Essex was 
 speedily overrun and conquered by the Northmen. The terms of the 
 peace of Wedmore (a.d. 880), which laid down the boundaries of 
 the territories of Alfred and of the Danish King Guthrum, assigned 
 Essex to the latter, and thus placed it within the Denalagu, the region 
 where the Danish law was in force. (The boundary ran from the 
 Thames along the river Lea to its source (see Hte. 11), thence to Bedford, 
 and along the Ouse to Watling Street, and so to the Welsh border). 
 Essex, no doubt, received at this time a certain infusion of Danish 
 
xii History. Essex. 
 
 blood ; but judging from the local nomenclature, the colony does not 
 ap])ear to have been in any way so numerous or so important as those 
 wliich were settled in a small part of East Anglia, in Mercia, and in 
 Northumbria. Edward the P]lder, son of the great Alfred, recovered 
 Essex from the Danish yoke, and built many fortresses in it (see WithaiTif 
 Rte. 2, and Maldon, Rte. 4). In the later Danish invasions, beginning 
 circ. 980 — invasions which led to the submission of all England to 
 Sweyne — Essex was mercilessly plundered by the Northmen. In 991 
 occurred the great fight of Maldon (see Rte. 4); and the last gi'eat 
 battle fought between Cnut and Edmund Ironside, in 1016, no doubt 
 took place close to Ashington on the Crouch (see Rte. 5). The situation 
 of E^sex, with its many creeks and estuaries, where the vessels of the 
 Northmen could lie in safety, laid the country specially open to their 
 attacks ; and it sulfered accordingly at all periods of the Danish ravages. 
 In 1045 Essex formed part of the Earldom of Harold. At a later 
 period, before the death of Edward, it was included in that of Harold's 
 brother, Leofwine (see the maps in Freeman's History of the Norman 
 Conquest, vol. iii., and his Appendix, note G.). 
 
 § 6. The East Saxons were converted to Christianity by MelUtus, 
 consecrated bishop by St. Augustine in 604 — the place of his see being 
 iixed at London — which Bede describes as at that time the East Saxon 
 metropolis (" quorum metropolis Lundouia civitas est." — H. E. ii. 3). 
 Essex was then under the control of Ethelbert of Kent (so far as the 
 powor of the Bretwalda implies control). Its king was Sabert, nephew 
 of Ethelbert. Sabert, like Ethelbert, became a Christian, and protected 
 Mellitus, for Ethelbert (acting as Bretwalda) built the church of St. 
 Paul in London. On the death of Sabert (circ. 616), his sons, who 
 had remained heathen, expelled Mellitus, who refused to give to them, 
 being unbaptized, the " fair bread " {imnis nit id us) of the Eucharist, such 
 as they had seen received by their father. Essex returned to the old 
 heathenism, and remained without Christian teachers until 653 ; when 
 Sigeberht, King of the East Saxons, was ba})tized in Northumbria, then 
 ruled by the Bretwalda Oswi. Oswi sent Cedd, a brother of Ceadda 
 (St. Chad of Lichfield), to preach the faith throughout Essex. Cedd 
 was consecrated bishop at Lindisfarne by Finan and two other bishops 
 (Bede, iii. 22) ; and two churches in Essex are recorded as having been 
 built b}^ him ; — at Tilaburg or Tillaburg (Tilbury, Rte. 1), and at 
 Ythancaestre, the Roman Othona (see post, § 9, and Rte. 4). " Fecit 
 ]?er loca ecclesias, presbj^teros et diaconos ordinavit, qui se in verbo 
 tidei et ministerio ba])tizandi adjuvarent, maxime in civitate quae 
 lingua Saxonum Ythancaestir appellatnr ; sed et in ilia qua3 Tilaburg 
 cognominatur ; quorum prior locus est in ripa Pentje amnis " (the Panta 
 or Black water) " secundus in ripa Tamensis ; in quibus coUecto examine 
 famulorum Christi, discipliuam vitaj regularis, in quantum rudes adhuc 
 capcre poterant, custodire docuit." — Bede, ' Hist. Eccles.' iii. 22. 
 
 But heathenism seems to have been powerful in Essex. On the 
 death of Swithelm, the successor of Sigeberht, the kingdom was divided, 
 its two portions being ruled by the Kings Sighere and Sebbi. A pesti- 
 
In trod., § 7. History. 
 
 Xlll 
 
 lence was devastating tlie country. Sebbi remained Christian. Sighere 
 and his people, supposing that the mortality was sent by their old, 
 offended gods, restored their temples, and became again followers of 
 Woden. Essex was at this time dependent to some extent on Mercia. 
 "Wulfhere, King of Mercia, sent Bishoj-) Jaruujan, who then occupied 
 the see of St. Chad, at Lichtield, to re-convert the people of Sighere. 
 Jaruman laboured effectually, as a priest who was his companion re- 
 ported to Bede ; and Essex from that time remained Christian, until a 
 new heathenism was introduced by the Danes. 
 
 § 7. The history of Essex, after the Norman Conquest, is almost 
 identified with that of its great baronial houses, and of the monasteries, 
 which were either founded after that event, or rose into greater impor- 
 tance. The Mandevilles, and the Bohuns, who succeeded them in the 
 Earldom of Essex, were very powerful in the county until the latter 
 part of the 14th century. In the N. of Essex the De Veres, Earls of 
 Oxford, ranked among the most powerful barons of England, and 
 played a distinguished part in the history of the country from the 
 Conquest to the beginning of the 17th ccnty. (see Castle Iledingharri^ 
 Pite. 9). There were royal castles at Colchester (Ete. 2) and Hadleigh 
 (Rte. 1). Castle Hedingham was the chief stronghold of De A^ere. 
 The Mandevilles and Bohuns possessed castles at Saffron Walden 
 (Rte. 11) and at Fleshy (Rte. 10), the latter of which is historically 
 interesting from its connection with the fall in 1307 of Thomas of 
 AVoodstock, Duke of Gloucester, the uncle of Richard II. (see Rte. 10). 
 Other castles, such as Clavering (Rte. 11), anciently held by Hugh of 
 Essex, and Ongar, a stronghold of the Lucys (Rte. 10) fell into ruin 
 at an early period, and were never perhaps of great importance. In 
 monastic houses, Essex was specially rich ; and two Abbeys — the 
 Benedictine house of St. John's, Colchester (Rte. 2) and the Abbey of 
 regular or Augustinian canons at Waltham (Rte. 11) were mitred, and 
 ranked among the wealthiest houses of their orders. (The early history 
 of Waltham, including its foundation by Harold as a house of secular 
 canons, is of considerable interest. See Rte. 11.) Of the other abbeys 
 and priories, numbering more than 30, the most noticeable are the 
 Cistercian Abbey at Coggeshall (Rte. 2), St. Botulph's Priory at Col- 
 chester (Augustinian Canons, — it was the head of its order in England 
 — Rte. 2) ; and, from its associations, the Augustinian Priory of Little 
 Dunmow (Rte. 3.) Besides these monasteries, there were three nun- 
 neries, one of which. Barking Abbey, for Benedictine nuns (Rte. 1) 
 was of great wealth and importance, the Abbess ranking as a Baroness. 
 Essex also possessed nine hospitals, three collegiate churches, and two 
 preceptories of Templars, the church of one of which, at Little Maple- 
 stead (Rte. 9) is among the most interesting in the country. 
 
 The number of these monastic houses, although many of them were 
 comparatively small, must have given them no small influence through- 
 out Essex : and the abbots of Waltham and St. John's at Colchester 
 were in effect powerful barons. 
 
 In the great risiug of the Commons in 1381, Essex was not less dis- 
 
xiv History. Essex. 
 
 turbed than the neighbouring districts of Kent and East Anglia. The 
 famous Jack Straw began the outbreak at Fobbing (lite. 1); and 
 the Essex insurgents, j)assing westward through the county, at last 
 joined the main body under Wat Tyler. (Fobbing is mentioned by 
 Stow. Walsingham, the great authority for all the events of this period, 
 and especially for this outbreak — see his ' Historica Anglicana,' edited 
 by ri. T. Kiley in the Rolls series — does not mention the place at which 
 Jack Straw began his work). The remains of the Essex insurgents, 
 after the death of Wat Tyler, and the revocation of the charters granted 
 to him, were, it is said, cut to pieces in the woods near Billericay. 
 
 Essex plays no very conspicuous part during the wars of the Roses, 
 although the house of De Vere suffered greatly ; and John, the 12th 
 Earl, an ardent Lancastrian, was, with his eldest son Aubrey, beheaded 
 by Edward IV. in 1461. (This is the Earl whose shattered fortunes — 
 of course with a liberal allowance of romance — are woven into the 
 plot of Scott's ' Anne of Geierstein.') In the great civil war of the 17th 
 cent, the country was for the most part Parliamentarian. The " Eastern 
 Association for the Parliament," formed at an early period of the war, 
 with the object of raising troops, was largely reinforced from Essex. 
 The most striking event of this period is, of course, the siege of Col- 
 chester in 1648 (see Rte. 2), followed by the memorable deaths of Sir 
 Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle. But although Johnson spoke with 
 honour of Colchester, as having sustained a siege for King Charles, the 
 town was in reality a hotbed of sectarians, and was strongly in favour 
 of the Parliament. The royalists were compelled to take refuge in 
 Colchester by Fairfax. 
 
 Essex has had little later history. Colchester, its principal town, 
 rose early to importance, and was famous as a " clothing town " — espe- 
 cially for its manufacture of " bays and says " from the reign of Eliza- 
 l:)eth, when many Walloons settled in it, and if they did not introduce, 
 at least greatly improved, the manufacture — to the middle of the last 
 century, when, as in Suffolk and Norfolk, the cloth trade gradually de- 
 clined, and at last was entirely transferred to the N. of England. The 
 harbour of Harwich was always important, as a place of arrival from, 
 and departure foi', the Flemish coast. Like other towns on this coast, 
 as Dunwich and Yarmouth, its chief time of prosperity was during the 
 Plantagenet period, when the Flemish cities were in their greatest 
 splendour, and were centres of commerce for the whole of western 
 Europe. 
 
 § 8. The Earldom of Essex has passed through many families ; the 
 most conspicuous, historically, being the ]\landevilles, the Bohuns, the 
 Bourchiers, and the Devereux. At the time of the Domesday Sui-vey 
 Suene of Essex (Suenus de Essexia) held 55 lordships in the county. 
 He was settled in England before the Conquest (his father's name was 
 Robert, his grandfather's Wimare — it does not appear whether he 
 was of Danish or Norman blood) joined the Conqueror, and was to all 
 appearance undisturbed in the possession of his lands. His son and 
 grandson, Robert and Henry of Essex, succeeded him. They were 
 
Introd., § 9. Antiquities. xv 
 
 barons of Essex by tenure ; and hereditary standard-bearers to tlie king. 
 Henry of Essex lost his lands for cowardice durins; an expedition into 
 Wales made by Henry 11. in 1163. But before this forfeiture, King 
 Steplien had created an Earldom of Essex in favour of Geoffry de 
 Mandeville, son of another Geoffry who had followed the Conqueror, 
 and had received numerous Eno;lish lordships, among which were 40 
 in Essex. The Mandevilles held the earldom for five generations, and 
 it at last (in 1227) descended to Maud, sister of WiUiam de Mandeville, 
 and wife of Henry de Bohun, Earl of Hereford. In right of his wife he 
 became Earl of Essex. The powerful house of Bohun, Earls of Here- 
 ford, Essex, and Northampton, succeeded for five descents. The last 
 Humphrey de Bohun (died 1372) left only two daughters, one of whom, 
 Eleanor, was the wife of Thomas of AVood stock, Duke of Gloucester, 
 6th son of P]dward III. This Duke, in his wife's right, assumed the title 
 of Earl of Essex ; and it was he who was betrayed at Fleshy by Pdchard 
 II, (see Pite. 10). Anne, daughter of the Duchess Eleanor, married, 
 first, Thomas and Edmund, successively Lords Stafford ; and then 
 William Bourchier, Earl of Essex. In 1461 his son Henry was de- 
 clared Earl of Essex in right of his grandmother. The male line failed 
 (1540) in a single descent ; and the Earldom of Essex was at once 
 bestowed on the famous Thomas Cromwell — himself beheaded in the 
 same year. It then passed to William Parr, the first Baron Parr, 
 brother of Queen Catherine, who had married the daughter of Henry 
 Bourchier, the last Earl of that descent. All his honours were forfeited 
 in 1553. In 1571, Walter Devereux, great grandson of the sister of the 
 last Bourchier Earl, was created Earl of Essex. His son Robert was the 
 well-known favourite of Elizabeth ; and with his son, another Robert, 
 the Parliamentary General, who died in 1646, the Devereux earldom 
 failed. In 1661, Arthur Capel, 2nd Lord Capel was created Earl of 
 Essex ; and the title still remains in his family. 
 
 Antiquities. 
 
 § 9. British and Boman. — Of so-called primaeval remains, stone 
 monuments, and sepulchral mounds of the most ancient character — 
 Essex possesses none of the first kind, and few, if any, of the latter. 
 Stone monuments, partly perhaps owing to the want of stone close at 
 band, fitted for the purpose, do not at present exist in the Eastern 
 Counties, although more may have been destroyed than the circle of 
 stones at Gorleston near Yarmouth (see Norfolk, Rte. 2) — which we 
 know was removed in comparatively recent times. Of British remains, 
 the most remarkable are the so-called " Dane {dts" at Little Thurrock 
 and at East Tilbury (Rte. 1), which were, in all probability, shafts sunk 
 for working chalk. British chalk was conveyed from the Thames to 
 Zealand, whence it passed to the interior of the Continent. Altars to 
 Nehalennia, the patroness of the chalk workers, have been found in the 
 sand on the coast of Zealand, some of which bear votive inscriptions 
 from dealers in British chalk (A'e^/ss^er, * Antiquitates Septentrionales'). 
 
xvi Antiquities. Essex. 
 
 The name " Dane pits " or " Danes' holes "may perhaps refer to the 
 use of these excavations as places of refuge during the Danish incursions. 
 In the diocese of Amiens, on either side of the Somme, as high as 
 Peronne, are (or were) a number of regularly formed excavations, one 
 entrance to which was usually connected with the parish church. These 
 excavations are worked in the chalk and tufa, and they have been 
 found in more than 30 parishes. Local tradition asserted that they 
 had been formed as places of refuge from the Huns, and they are known 
 as "les souterrains des guerres;" but it seems probable that, like the 
 British ])its, they were old excavations made at first for procuring chalk 
 or building stone, and enlarged during the " furor Normannorum " of 
 the 9th and 10th centuries. The district in which they are found was 
 known in the 12th century as the *' Territorium sanctfe liberationis " 
 (see a notice of them, with a plan of one of the most important, in the 
 ' Hist, de I'Academie des Inscriptions,' tom. xxvii). 
 
 The possible remains of the British town at Lexden near Colchester 
 are noticed in Rte. 2. Such castle mounds as that of Kayleigh (Rte. 5) 
 may perhaps be British ; and some of the tumuli on the chalk hills in 
 the N.W. corner of the county are of early character. But British 
 relics were, no doubt, destroyed to a great extent during the Boman 
 period, when the country, judging from the important Roman remains, 
 the great works (the roads, the embankment of the Thames, and the 
 drainage of the marshes about Barking) executed by them, and the 
 many Roman cemeteries, must have been well peopled. The most 
 noticeable Roman relics are the walls of Colchester, the ancient Camulo- 
 dunum (Rte. 2); the remains found in and near that city, and now 
 preserved in the Colchester Museum (Rte. 2) ; and the traces of the 
 ancient Othona (Rte. 4), at the mouth of the Panta or Blackwater. 
 Othona was one of the stations under the command of the Count of the 
 Saxon shore, and, like Richborough in Kent and Burgh Castle at 
 the mouth of the Yare (Suffolk, Rte. 5), was probabl}^ ei-ected for the 
 defence of the coast during the later period of Roman dominion. Among 
 its ruins, Cedd, the first preacher of Christianity to the East Saxons, 
 erected a church (see ante, § 6). 
 
 Numerous Roman sepulchral relics have been found in different parts 
 of Essex. A stone sarcophagus and lead cofihis found at East Ham 
 (Rte. 1) are now in the British Museum. Colchester is, of course, rich 
 in such remains. Great numbers have been found in the neighbour- 
 hood of And ley End, and are preserved for the most part in the house 
 there, or in the Museum at Saffion Walden (Rte. 11). These remains 
 group themselves round the great station at Chesterford, the ancient 
 Iceanum, on the extreme K. border of Essex (Rte. 11). They have 
 been thoroughly described by the late Lord Braybrooke in his ' Antiqua 
 Explorata' and ' Sepulta Explorata' — both jirivately printed; and in 
 numerous articles by him in the Journals of the Archcelogical Institute 
 and of the Archaeological Association. 
 
 'Lhe chief Roman road through Essex followed nearly the line of the 
 old high road, and of the present railway, between London and Col- 
 
In trod., § 10. Antiquities. xvii 
 
 Chester. There were towns or stations at Durolitum (near Romford), 
 CcTsaromagns (near Chehnsford), and Canonium (near Kelvedon ?). 
 Branch roads crossed the country from Colchester to Camboritum 
 (Cambridge), and from Colchester to Bishop's Stortford. The Roman 
 roads and stations of Essex and still more of Norfolk and Suffolk, have 
 been very imperfectly examined ; and with the exception of the greater 
 towns, such as Camulodunum, the sites of stations are still uncertain. 
 
 § 10. Mediceval and later antiquities. — Besides many churches of 
 great interest, Essex contains two of the finest Norman Castle-keeps in 
 this country, and some very important examples of domestic architec- 
 ture. 
 
 The great use of massive wood-work, especially in the construction of 
 belfry towers, and the very earl 3^ (post Roman) brick buildings in 
 Essex, are remarkable. The unusual use of both materials was owing 
 to the absence throughout the greater part of the country of any good 
 building stone. But wood was abundant. The country was one wide 
 forest; and it was easy to find oak timber sufficiently large and strong 
 to construct such church walls as those of Greenstead, such belfries as 
 those of Margaretting and Blackmore, or such piers and arcades as those 
 of Shenfield. Brick, which had been disused after the Roman period, 
 was at first, perhaps, imported from Flanders, bat was soon (as at 
 Coggeshall) made and burnt in the country. 
 
 Except in their massive timber-work, the Essex churches generally 
 present no ] jeculiarities calling for special notice. Seven churches in 
 tliis county have round towers ; but these towers belong in so marked 
 a manner to Norfolk and Sufiblk, the ancient East Anglia, that they 
 will properly be noticed in the Introduction to those counties. The 
 few examples which exist in Essex and in Cambridgeshire are due, no 
 doubt, to East Anglian influence. 
 
 The most remarkable wooden belfry towers are at Margaretting, Stock, 
 and Blackmore, all described in Rte. 2 ; where also the striking Shen- 
 field Arcade is noticed. For Oreenstead Church, the oaken walls of 
 which are of the highest interest, see Rte. 10. 
 
 At Little Maplestead (Rte. 9), is one of the four round churches in 
 this country. 
 
 English before the Conquest. — Greenstead has generally been regarded 
 as more ancient than the Conquest ; but this (see Rte. 10) is doubtful. 
 The lower part of the tower at Boreham (Rte. 2), and portions of 
 Felstead Church (Rte. 3) have more decided claims to a date before 
 1066. The tower of Trinity Church, Colchester (Rte. 2) is certainly of 
 very early character. 
 
 Normaii. — Of churches containing Norman work the most interesting 
 Suxe (Vde. V) Hadleigh ; Soutlichurch. (Rte. 2) Blackmore. * Ruins of 
 St. Botolph's Priory Church, Colchester. (Rte. 4) Eeyhridge. (Rte. 6) 
 Great Bentley. (Rte. 9) *i^7^/e Maplestead (round church); Castle 
 Hedingham. (Rte. 10) Greenstead (if it be not earlier) ; Stondon 
 Mnssey ; Willinghale Spain. (Rte. 11) *Waltham Abbey ; Stanstead 
 Mount Fitchet ; Hadstock. 
 
xviii Antiquities. Essex. 
 
 Early English. Essex contains little of this period. Early English 
 portions exist in (Rte. 1) Southchurch ; (Kte. 2) Southiveald ; Black- 
 more ; * Danhu7^y ; and Boreliam. (Rte. 3) St. MicliaeVs, Braintree. 
 (Rte. 7) Dovercourt, a small and poor church, but interesting from the 
 famous rood which it once possessed. 
 
 Decorated. — (Rte. 2) *Sherifield (part of the church, but not the 
 timber arcade, which is Perp.); Mountnessi7tg i Ingatestone (nave); 
 * Margaretting (veiy interesting for its wooden tower, and stained 
 glass) ; Danhury (containing three wooden efSgies of the Dec. period). 
 (Rte. 8) Stehbing (where is a remarkable chancel arch-screen); and 
 Tiltey. (Rte. 6) Wivenhoe (church rebuilt, but interesting). (Rte. 9) 
 Little MapJestead (some portions of the round church are of this date). 
 (Rte. 10) Fyfidd {\^?ivi&). (Rte. 11) Waltham Abbey (S. chapel). 
 (Rte. 11) Great Bampfond. 
 
 Ferpendicular. — (Rte. 2) Shenfield (the wooden arcade is of this 
 period) ; Ingatestone (brick tower) ; Boreham (parts. Here are the 
 fine Sussex monuments) ; Messing (with a late Perp. stained window) ; 
 *Layer Marney (with fine Marney tombs). (Rte. 3) Bocking (W. 
 tower) ; Felstead (parts. Here is the monument of the first Lord 
 Rich) ; *TJiaxted (Perp. throughout, — large and fine). (Rte. 4) Maldon 
 (triangular tower). (Rte. 9) EarTs Colne (the De Vere efiigies are in 
 the Priory cloister) ; Bible Eedingliam (early) ; Castle Hedingham 
 (parts, — the altar tomb of the 15th Earl of Oxford is here). (Rte. 11) 
 *Saifron Walden (Perp. throughout, — a large and interesting church). 
 
 Of all these churches, those which the archa?ologist will find most im- 
 j)ortant are Margaretting, Stock, Blackmore (wooden towers) ; Shenfield 
 (wooden arcade) ; Boreham (with the Sussex monuments) ; Layer 
 Marney ; St. Botolph^s at Colchester ; Earl's Colne (with the De Vere 
 effigies) ; the timber church of Gi^eenstead ; the round church at Little 
 Maplestead ; the Norman church at Waltham Abbey ; and the two fine 
 Perpendicular churches of Thaxted and Saffron Walden. 
 
 An interesting effigy, in wood, of a priest exists in the church of 
 Little Leighs (Rte. 3), and in Little Llorkesley Church are three large 
 knightly effigies in oak. There are brasses worth notice (all described 
 in the text) in the churches of (Rte. 1) Aveley, (Rte. 2) Little Llford, 
 (Rte. 3) Little Easton, (Rte. 6) Wivenhoe, (Rte. 8) Little Horkesley, 
 (Rte. 9) Pebmarsh — the earliest in the county, circ. 1323, (Rte. 10) 
 St. Mary's, Chigivell, (Rte. 11) Chrishall. 
 
 (In Rte. 8, the churches at Sudbury in Suffolk are described. There 
 are three, all Perpendicular, and all interesting, with some fine wood- 
 work.) 
 
 Mo7iastic Remains. — Essex contained numerous conventual and 
 collegiate houses ; but of these the existing remains are scanty, and not 
 very interesting. There is little left of the great Benedictine nunnery 
 at Barking (Rte. 1). The remains of Thoby Priory (Augustinian 
 Canons, Rte. 2) are concealed within a modern house. The ruins of 
 the Cistercian Abbey at Coggeshall (Rte. 2) are worth attention ; as are, 
 at Colchester, the gate of St. Johrt's Abbey (Benedictine), and the ruins 
 
Introd., § 11. Geology. xix 
 
 of St. BotolpKs Priory CMirch (Augiistinian Canons). The gateway of 
 Little Leighs (Augiistinian Canons, Kte. 3), remains. There are some 
 remains of the Cistercian Abbey at Tiltey (Rte. 3). At Dunmow (Rte. 3) 
 the church alone of the Augustinian Canons is preserved. The remains 
 of Beleigh Abbey (Premonstratensian Canons, Rte. 4), are interesting. 
 What remains at St. OsytJi's (Augustinian Canons, lite. 6), is good ; 
 but has been built into the later house. At Waltham Ahbey (Augus- 
 tinian Canons, Rte. 11), there is little left but the church. 
 
 Castles. — Of the Essex castles, only mounds and ditches remain at 
 Ongar and Fleshy (both Rte. 10). There are fine and extensive ruins 
 at Hadleigh (Rte. 1), dating from about 1231. At Colchester (Rte. 2) 
 and at Castle HecUngham (Rte. 9) are grand Korm. keeps, ranking 
 among the most interesting and important in England. 
 
 Domestic Architecture. — The finest and most complete example in 
 the county is Audley End (Rte. 11), entirely Jacoba?an, and one of the 
 most stately houses in England. Ingatestone Hall (Rte. 1) is Eliza- 
 bethan ; only a portion remains. *New Hall (Rte. 2) is a fine Tudor 
 house of red brick. *Layer Marney Hall (Rte. 2), very fine brick- 
 work of the age of Henry VIIL, deserving special attention. Faulk- 
 hourne Hall (Rte. 3) is of the 15th century, and later. There are 
 some early portions of Bayne Hall (Rte. 3). Easton Lodge (Rte. 3) is 
 Elizabethan, but has suffered much from fire. "^Horeham Hall (Rte. 3) 
 dates from the reign of Henry VII , and is fine. At Tolleshunt Magna 
 (Rte. 4) is a brick gate-house of the 15th century. Bochford Hall 
 (Rte. 5) is jmrtly Jacobajan. *Gosfield Hall (Rte. 9) is of brick, and 
 dates partly from the reign of Henry VII. Moyns Bark (Rte. 9) is a 
 fine Tudor house ; and Hill Hall (Rte. 10) is of the age of Elizabeth, 
 but is Italian in design. 
 
 Waltham Cross (Rte. 11), interesting in spite of its restoration, is 
 the finest remaining of the crosses which marked the resting-places of 
 Queen Eleanor's body, on its way from Lincoln to London. 
 
 Geology. 
 
 § 11. The whole of Essex, with the exception of the X.W. corner, 
 bordering on Hertfordshire and Cambridgeshire, lies in what is called 
 the " London basin " — one of the two districts (the other is the so- 
 called " Hampshire basin ") to which the Eocene formations of England 
 are confined. " These tracts are bounded by rising grounds, composed 
 of chalk, except where the sea intervenes. That the chalk passes 
 beneath the Tertiary strata we can not only infer from geological data, 
 but can prove by numerous artificial sections, at points where wells 
 have been sunk, or borings made through the overlying beds. I'he 
 Eocene deposits are chiefly marine, and have generally been divided 
 into 3 groups : — 1st, the Plastic clay and sand, which is the lowest 
 group ; 2ndly, the London clay ; and 3rdly, the Bagshot sand. Of all 
 these the mineral composition is very simple, for they consist almost 
 entirely of clay, sand, and shingle, the great mass of clay being in the 
 
XX Geology. Essex. 
 
 middle, and the upper and lower members of the series being more 
 arenaceous." — l.yell. 
 
 The surface deposit of greater part of Essex is the London clay, the 
 highest elevations of which (it is nowhere very lofty) are at High 
 Beech (Rte. 10), Danbury (Rte. 2), and the Langdon hills (Rte. 1). 
 " Its thickness is very great, sometimes exceeding 500 ft. It contains 
 many layers of ovate or flattish masses of argillaceous limestone, which, 
 in their interior, are generally traversed in various directions by cracks, 
 partially or wholly tilled by calcareous spar. These masses, called 
 septaria, are sometimes continued through a thickness of 200 ft." — 
 Lyell. Excellent cement is made from these septaria. 
 
 No remains of land, mammalia have been found in the London clay. 
 Bones and skeletons of crocodiles and turtles abound ; and these, 
 together with seed-vessels and remains of plants, found in very great 
 numbers, prove the existence of neighbouring dry land at the time 
 when the London clay was deposited beneath the sea. The great 
 thickness of the London clay renders it almost impervious to water, 
 and few spring;s issue directly from it. The water procured by boring 
 through the clay is very clear and pure. 
 
 The Plastic clay occurs in different parts of Essex ; but the principal 
 tract extends across the county from the neighbourhood of Hadleigh to 
 that of Coggeshall. It lies below the London clay, and is sometimes of 
 great thickness (from 400 to 500 ft.). " It consists principally of an 
 indefinite nimiber of beds of sand, shingle, clay, and loam, irregularly 
 alternating, some of the clay being used in potteries, in reference to 
 which the name of Plastic clay has been given to the whole formation." 
 — Lyell. Various marine shells are found in it, together with the teeth 
 of fish. 
 
 The N.E. coast of Essex is formed of loose friable sands and clays, 
 capped at Harwich and Walton-on-the-Naze by Suffolk crag (see 
 Introcl. to Suffolk, ' Geology '). This crag contains numerous shells, 
 and is referable to what is known as the " older Pleiocene " period. 
 
 The valley of the Thames contains a post-pleiocene alluvium (of 
 infinitely later date than the Eocene formations), resembling the post- 
 tertiary alluviums in the basins of the Somme and the Seine. " The 
 most marked feature of this alluvium in the Thames valley is that 
 great bed of ochreous gi-avel, composed chiefl}^ of broken and slightly 
 worn chalk-flints, on which a great part of London is built. It extends 
 from above Maidenhead through the metropolis to the sea, a distance 
 from W. to E. of fifty miles, having a width varying from two to nine 
 miles. Its thickness ranges commonly from five to fifteen feet. Inter- 
 stratified with tliis gravel in many places are beds of sand, loam, and 
 clay, the whole containing occasionally remains* of the mammoth and 
 other extinct quadrupeds. Fine sections have been exposed to view, at 
 different periods, at Brentford and Kew Bridge, others in London itself, 
 and below it at Erith in Kent, on the right bank of the Thames, and 
 at Ilford and Grays-Thurrock in Essex, on the left bank. The united 
 thickness of the beds of sand, gravel, and loam amounts sometimes to 
 
Introd., § 12. Traveller's View. xxi 
 
 forty or even sixty feet. They are for the most part elevated above, 
 but in some cases they descend below, the present level of the overflowed 
 plain of the Thames." — Ley ell, 'Antiq. of Man.' Flint implements of 
 the same antique type as those found in the valley of the Somme have 
 been discovered in this alluvium. Deposits of it occur in other parts of 
 Essex. At Copford the late Mr. John Brown, F.G.S., found in it bones 
 of the mammoth, a large bear (probably Ursus spelceus), a beaver, stag, 
 and aurochs, besides sixty-nine species of land and fresh-water shells. 
 For the strata at Grays-Thurrock, see Rte. 1. 
 
 Patches of glacial drift are found capping some of the Essex hills, 
 and extending some way down their southern slopes towards the valley 
 of the Thames. " Although no fragments, washed out of these older 
 and upland drifts, have been found in the gravel of the Thames con- 
 taining elephant's bones, it is fair to presume, as Mr. Prestwich has 
 contended, that the glacial formation is the older of the two, and that it 
 originated when the greater ])art of England was submersred beneath 
 the sea. In short, we must suppose that the basin of the Thames, and 
 all its fluviatile deposits, are post-glacial in the modified sense of that 
 term, i.e., that they were subsequent to the marine drift of the central 
 and northern counties, and to the period of its emergence above the level 
 of the sea." — LyelL 
 
 Traveller's View. 
 
 § 12. Although Essex is not one of the picturesque counties of 
 England, it contains some scenery of considerable interest. The old 
 woodland of Epping Forest (Rtes. 10 and 11), diminished as it is, is 
 still striking and beautiful ; and here and there well represents, with 
 its gnarled trees and its lengthened glades, the great forest, full of wild 
 animals, which, according to l:''itzstej)hen, anciently spread close up to 
 the northern wall of London. Eemains of ancient wood, less known, 
 and less picturesque, extend northward from Epping toward Hatfield 
 and Dunmow. It is on this side of the county that the old " Forest of 
 Essex" (see ante, § 2), still holds some portion of its ground. 
 
 The central portion of Essex, rich and green, is not very attractive 
 to the traveller " in seacrh of the picturesque." The views from some 
 of the higher ground — especially that from Danbury Hill (Rte. 2), and 
 others farther N., as at Braxted (Rte. 2) — are extensive and unusual ; 
 looking across wide stretches of comparatively level country to the 
 seaboard, broken and indented b}^ numerous creeks and inlets. The 
 seaboard itself is hardly interesting. That of Tendring Hundred (from 
 Clacton to Harwich, lUes. 6 and 7), is bordered in part by low cliffs, 
 which are well known to the geologist; and the Essex coast, which 
 borders the Thames, at least from Benfleet to Shoeburyness (Rte. 1), 
 commands fine and striking views. 
 
 Along the Suffolk border, especially about Dedham and Nayland 
 (Suffolk, Rte. 2), the scenery has a quiet, cheerful beauty, well reflected 
 in some of the best pictures of Constable, whose home was here. The 
 
xxii Extent and General Character. Norf. & Suff. 
 
 north-western corner, about Saffron Walden (Rte. 11), lies on the 
 chalk, and is broken into long, shallow valleys, winding upward 
 toward the ridge along the Cambridgeshire border. The views are 
 sometimes good ; and the country round Saffron Walden itself is very- 
 pleasing. 
 
 The lover of tranquil, home scenery, with fine trees, rich harvest 
 fields, and green meadows, will find much to please him throughout 
 Essex. And, if the county is nowhere highly picturesque, the 
 antiquary will find it inferior in interest to few in England (see §§ 9, 
 10, 'Antiquities'). 
 
 Of Pictures and Art Collections, the most important are at Belhus 
 fRte. 1), where are some interesting portraits, among them many of the 
 Dacres of the South ; Southweald Hall (Rte. 2), where is a very fine 
 Titian ; Thorndon Hall (Rte. 2), portraits, including some Holbeins ; 
 the Hyde (Rte. 2) ; and Audley End (Rte. 11), the most noticeable 
 house in the count}'-, containing portraits, and other good pictures. At 
 Wivenhoe Park (Rte. 6) is a fine piece of carving by Grinling 
 Gibbons. 
 
 Places of special interest to the engineer are the Northern Outfall 
 Beservoir (Rte. 1), and Shoehuryness (Rte. 1). 
 
 II. 
 
 EAST AXGLIA. 
 
 NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK. 
 
 The general character and history of both Norfolk and Suffolk may 
 well be treated in one division. The antiquities of each county 
 must be noticed separately. 
 
 Page Page 
 
 Extent and General Chaeac- Antiquities (Norfolk) . . . . xliii 
 
 TER xxii Geology xlviii 
 
 History xxv Traveller's View 11 
 
 Antiquities (Suffolk) . . . . xxxv 
 
 Extent and General Character, 
 
 § 13. The insular character of the ancient kingdom of East Anglia 
 was long since pointed out by Dr. Stanley, in an Essay contributed to 
 the Norwich volume of the Archaeological Institute. Norfolk and 
 Suffolk are cut off from the rest of ^^ngland by the great fen district 
 which borders them on the west ; by the broad estuaryof the fen rivers, 
 which on the north divides Norfolk from Lincolnshire; and by the 
 estuary of the Stour, which on the south divides Suffolk from Essex. 
 
Introd., § 13. Extent and General Character. xxiii 
 
 The German Ocean washes the eastern coast. The effect of this insul- 
 ation has been that the East Anglian kingdom was more purely 
 Teutonic than any other in this country, and that the race is probably 
 to this day less mingled ; and it may perhaps be traced throughout the 
 later history of the district. 
 
 The area of Suffolk in statute acres is 930,345. It is thus smaller 
 than Essex, which covers 983,443 acres ; and considerably less than 
 Norfolk, where the extent of acreage is 1,300,311. The population of 
 Suffolk in 1861 was 335,409. That of Norfolk was 427,426. (The 
 pop. of Essex was 379,705.) 
 
 There is no very high ground in either Norfolk or Suffolk ; yet, 
 except in certain districts, neither county can be called flat. Suffolk 
 was enclosed at an earlier period than Norfolk ; and as a whole its 
 scenery is of a softer and more pastoral character. It still deserves 
 good Bishop Hall's commendation of it, as " a sweet and civil county." 
 (See Eaiustead, StJFFOLK, Ete. 3). " This country," writes Eeyce, whose 
 ' Breviary of Suffolk,' compiled in 1618, remains in MS. in the British 
 Museum, "delighting in a continuall evenes and plaines, is void of any 
 great hills, high mountains, or steepe rockes, notwithstanding the which 
 it is not alwayes so low or fiat but that it is severed and divided with 
 little hills easy for ascent, and pleasaunt ryvers watering the low valleys 
 with a most beautiful prospect, which ministreth unto the inhabitants 
 a full choyce of healthful aud pleasant situations for their seemly 
 houses." (Beyce, quoted in Suckhng's ' Hist, of Suffolk,' Introd.) The 
 surface of Norfolk is far more varied. " All England," says Fuller, 
 (' Worthies ') " may be carved out of Norfolk, represented therein, not 
 only to the kind, but degree thereof. Here are fens and heaths, and 
 light and deep, and sand and clay ground, and meadow, and pasture, 
 and arable, and woody, and (generally) woodless land, so grateful to 
 this shire with the variety thereof. Thus, as in many men, though 
 perchance this or that part may justly be cavilled at, yet all put 
 together complete a proper person ; so Norfolk collectively taken hath 
 a sufficient result of pleasure and profit, that being supplied in one part 
 which is defective in another." 
 
 The most marked feature in the geography of Suffolk is the ridge of 
 comparatively high table-land, which, beginning near Beccles, crosses 
 the county obliquely, by Halesworth, Stradbrooke, and Debenham, and 
 thence passes to the S.W. angle. This ridge seems to be what is known 
 as " High Suffolk," — although the limits of snch a division are by no 
 means clearly defined. The land of High Suffolk is strong and fertile, 
 — loam on a clay marl bottom. There is a local saying which makes 
 this district the Boeotia of the county ; and it may well be that in 
 ancient days its deep miry ways and stiff soil caused it to be regarded 
 with some dread by the monks of Bury, and by the comfortable 
 burghers of Ipswich. 
 
 Mr. Stevenson in the Introduction to his ' Birds of Norfolk ' has 
 enumerated six divisions which sufficiently well represent the varieties 
 of soil and surface offered by that county. 1. The district of the Broads 
 
xxiv Extent and General Character. Xorf. & Suff. 
 
 (see Yarmouth, Norfolk, Ete. 2) marked by the immeroiis broads or 
 meres into wiiich the winding rivers oj^en at intervals. 2. The Cliff 
 district, extending from Happisburgh to Weyborne beyond Cromer 
 (see lites. 3, 4, 5); with low sea-cliffs, and (for some distance inland) 
 furze-covered hills, heaths, and rich wooded valleys. 3. The Meals or 
 sandy shore extending from near Weyborne to Hunstanton (Rtes. 5 
 and 9) marked by its flat shores, its creeks, and salt marshes. 4. The 
 "Breck" district, in the W. and S.W. of the county (Rtes. 11, 12). 
 The local word " breck" is used to signify ground which at any former 
 period has been "broken up," but not enclosed. This ])art of the 
 county is distinguished by its wide open fields of light land, mixed 
 with very extensive tracts of heath, fir plantation, warren and sheep- 
 walk. 5. Fen district (Ete. 10) ; a portion of the Great Bedford Level, 
 beginning close to the town of Brandon, and extending over the S.W. 
 part of the county to King's Lynn. 6. The Enclosed district (Rtes. 2, 
 4, 6, 8) ; forming the centre and the eastern divisions of the county ; a 
 region of small fields, clustering homesteads, rich meadows, and well- 
 timbered hedgerows. 
 
 It may here be said that the district of the " brecks " was the special 
 haunt of the great bustard (otis tarda) in Norfolk ; and the quarter in 
 which it lingered latest. Westacre in this district, and Icklingham 
 in Suffolk (a country which is, in fact, a continuation of the Norfolk 
 brecks) were haunted by the bustard until at least as late as 1827. 
 In 1819, nineteen were observed together at Westacre. The bird was 
 formerly by no means scarce ; and in the days of Charles II. it was 
 " taken'by greyhounds " on Newmarket Heath. Gilbert White asserts 
 that bustards "when seen on the downs resemble fallow deer at a 
 distance." They are very good eating. At a feast given in the Inner 
 Temple Hall in 1555, 10s. each was the cost of bustards, — 10s. each 
 of swans and cranes, and 4s. of pheasants. The bustard became extinct 
 in Norfolk about 1838, when the killing of the last two birds is recorded. 
 In 1843 one was shot between Helston and the Lizard ; and another so 
 late as 1856, near Hungerford, in Berkshire. Its extirpation has, no 
 doubt, been brought about by improved agriculture and the gradual 
 enclosure of the open country — especially by the plantation of rows of 
 trees for shelter. The system of weeding out corn in the s]n-ing, and 
 the " horse-hoeing " used in the large wheat-fields of W. Norfolk, seem 
 to have interfered with the nesting of the birds, and to have destroyed the 
 eggs, which are laid in a depression on the bare ground. The bustard 
 feeds on green corn, grasses, &c. ; and is said to kill and eat small 
 mammalia and reptiles. It is now found in vast numbers in Spain, on 
 most of the middle and southern plains. 
 
 § 14. The rivers of Suffolk are chiefly noticeable for their deep, 
 winding estuaries. The Stour, the Orwell (into which the Gipping 
 river falls), and the Deben, are all thus marked; and their estuaries 
 divide the S.E. corner of the county into broad peninsulas. The Aide 
 winds toward the sea through another long, narrow channel. The 
 Stour, dividing Suffolk from Essex, is the largest of these rivers, and is 
 
Introd., § 10. History. xxv 
 
 navigable as high as Manningtree (and by locks, to Sudbury). The 
 AVavene}^ which throughout its' course divides Suflblk from "^Norfolk, 
 DOW enters the sea through the Breydon water above Yarmouth. It is 
 asserted that the Waveney was formerly navigable tiiroughout its 
 valley; and as late as 1549, during Kett's rebellion, a ])innace was 
 prepared for conveying twenty men up the river as far as Weybread, — 
 12 or 14 miles higher than the limit of the present navigation. All 
 the tSuflblk rivers abound in fish. 
 
 The Norfolk coast differs much from that of Suffolk. Its rivers have 
 no such estuaries, although the Yare and the Bure are navigable for 
 some distance. Those which fall into the sea near Yarmouth, winding 
 through the flat marshlands, form the curious district of the Broads 
 (Yarmouth, Ete. 2). The most important of the remaining Norfolk 
 rivers fall into the Ouse before it joins the sea at King's Lynn. 
 
 § 15. Neither county has at present any great extent of manufac- 
 tures. Norfolk was one of the earliest seats of the cloth trade in this 
 country (see Norwich, Rte. 1, and Worstead, lite. 2), and the fabric of 
 " Worstead " itself takes its name from the town (the " steading " of 
 some Anglian " Wor " or " Wore ") in which it was first manufactured. 
 The cloth trade extended through great part of Norfolk and Suffolk ; 
 and many fine churches (such as that of Lavenham in Suffolk, Rte. 3) 
 were raised by wealthy clothiers. This trade has almost entirely 
 passed into the North of England. The largest mills in the kingdom 
 for producing Norwich crape (a mixture of silk and worsted) exist at 
 Norwich ; but the chief staple of that city at present is the manufac- 
 ture of boots and shoes. 
 
 The old importance of Norfolk worsted, and the strong local feeling 
 which has always characterized the county, are amusingly shown in 
 a letter from John Paston to his cousin Margaret, written about 
 1464 : — " I pray you," he writes, " ye will send me hither two ells of 
 worsted for doublets, to happe me this cold winter ; and that ye 
 enquire where William Paston bought his tippet of tine worsted, 
 which is almost like silk, and if that be much finer than that ye 
 should buy me after seven or eight shillings, then buy me a quarter 
 and the nail thereof for collars, though it be dearer tlian the other; 
 for I would make my doublet all worsted, for worship of Norfolk, 
 rather than like Gonner's doublet." — Paston Letters, vol. iv., p. 91. 
 
 The manufactories of agricultural implements at Ipswich especially 
 that of Messrs. Ptan&om & Sims (Jjjsivich Rte. 1), should here be men- 
 tioned. The iron works of Messrs. Garrett, at Leiston (Suffolk, Rte. 
 5) are very large and important. 
 
 History. 
 
 § 16. The insular character of East Anglia has, no doubt, influenced 
 its history from a very early period. The Avhole of the district, when 
 we first obtain any knowledge of it, was inhabited by a single British 
 tribe — the Iceni — who, defended on three sides by the sea and its 
 
 \_E8aez, &C.'] b 
 
xxvi Historij. Xorf. & Sqff. 
 
 estuaries, seem also to have possessed the Feiilands of Cambridge- 
 shire, which thus formed an outlying march, or border of protection on 
 the west. But within, on the eastern side of these fenlands, four of the 
 strongest boundary dykes to bo found in the kingdom (the Devil's 
 Dyke, the Fleam, or Balsham Dyke, and the Brent and Bran ditches), 
 passing from the southern limits of the fens, the northern border of 
 what was anciently the great forest country of N. Essex, form additional 
 defences of E. Anglia against invaders from the W. "SMiether all these 
 dykes belong to the British period is uncertain. But the Devil's Dyke, 
 the largest of them, was, there can be little doubt, a defence of the 
 Iceni at some period of their history. 
 
 The Iceni seem to have submitted to the power of the Komans during 
 the campaign of Aulus Plautius. But after Ostorius Scapula arrived 
 in Britain they revolted, and were attacked and defeated by Ostorius 
 within their defences (" locum septum agresti aggere "). Henceforth 
 they were kept in obedience only by fear ; and the cruelties inflicted 
 by the Eomans, which followed on the death of the chief, Prasutagus 
 (in the reign of Nero), led to the rising of the Iceni, who, joined by the 
 Trinobantes of Essex, plundered and burnt Camulodunum (Colchester), 
 and utterly defeated the ninth legion under its lieutenant, Cerealis. 
 (See Essex, Introd.) It is unnecessary to tell here the famous story 
 of Boadicca, the widow of Prasutagus. The great rising of the Iceni 
 called from Mona the Propraetor Suetonius Paulinus, who collected a 
 large body of regular troops, and gave battle to Boadicea and the 
 various tribes who had made common cause with the Iceni. The 
 Britons were routed with terrible slaughter. Eighty thousand are 
 said to have perished, including their women, who had been placed in 
 waggons round the plain on which the Iceni were posted. It is on this 
 occasion that Boadicea is represented as appearing with her daughters 
 in a chariot, and addressing the several tribes. After the defeat she 
 destroj^ed herself by poison. The scene of the battle is uncertain. 
 Messing in Essex has been suggested (see Essex, Rte. 2), but there is 
 not sufficient evidence to determine the actual place, and the open 
 plain which Tacitus describes as in front of the Roman troops " so that 
 there was no fear of ambuscades," seems to indicate a country farther 
 N, — on the Newmarket plain, or the Thetford heaths. 
 
 The Iceni were entirely crushed in this battle. They are duly 
 recorded in the geographical survey of Ptolemy (circ. a.d. 110) ; but 
 the Eomans seem to have occupied their country without further 
 resistance, unless we are to suppose that the British fortress on the site 
 of Norwich castle still held out, and that the camp at Caister was 
 at this time constructed by the legionaries. (See Norwich, Ete. 1.) At 
 a much later period the Eoman Stations at Walton, at Dunwich, 
 at Burgh, and at Brancaster were constructed, all as defences of the 
 " Saxon shore." The name of the Iceni is retained in that of the 
 " Icenhilde Way," the old British trackway which ran (and which may 
 still in great measure be traced) from the Norfolk coast to the western 
 parts of the island. The name of this street, according to Dr. Guest, 
 
IntrocL, § 17. History. xxvii 
 
 sip;nifies the " highway of the Icen," — the way fitted for military expe- 
 ditions, — from the Anglo-Saxon Mid, war, battle. Such names as 
 Icklingham, Ickleton, and Ickleford (all in Suffolk) he regards as in 
 all probability corruptions of Iceningham, Icenton, and Icenford. Icen- 
 ingham, the " ham " or dwelling of the Icenings, w^as no doubt the 
 capital of that people. (See Dr. Guest's paper on the " Four Roman 
 ways," ' Archgeol. Journal,' vol. xiv.) If these derivations are ac- 
 cepted, they go far to prove not only the earlier importance of the 
 Iceni, but their strength and numbers at the time of the first Anglian 
 settlements. The old British name would not have been retained and 
 "Anglicised" had not the race lingered on part, at least, of its old 
 possessions, long after the first Anglian colonists settled upon its 
 borders. 
 
 § 17. The time of this first Anglian settlement cannot be accurately 
 fixed. The Cerdics-ora of the ' Anglo-Saxon Chronicle,' at which Cerdic 
 and Cynric are said to have landed in the year 495, was placed by 
 Camden in Norfolk. Cerdic was the founder of the W. Saxon kingdom ; 
 and it has been suggested that after his first landing on the fiat shore 
 of Norfolk he sailed thence to the Hampshire coast, whence he advanced 
 to conquer and to found his kingdom. But it has been shown with 
 tolerable certainty that Cerdics-ora lay somewhere on the Southampton 
 water; and that we cannot regard the passage in the Chronicle as 
 having anything to do with the first Teutonic landing in " E. Anglia." 
 It may x^ossibly be that the first Anglian chief who settled here was 
 Uffa, or Wufi'a, from whom the E. Anglian royal race was called 
 " Ufifingas " {Bede, ' H. E.,' Lib. ii., c. 15). Ufi'a, according to Bede, 
 was the grandfather of the historic Rasdwald, However this may be, 
 the province was soon (perhaps from the first) divided into the two 
 districts which were afterwards known as Norfolk and Sufiblk ("North 
 folk," and " South folk "), each of which was probably ruled by a 
 prince of the one royal house. These principalities may have been 
 formed by separate, though kindred, detachments of colonists. — {Free- 
 man). The kingdom thus formed became the most purely Teutonic 
 in England. Its connections were rather with the other Anglian 
 kingdoms — Northumbria and Mercia— than with the Saxon races 
 which joined it on its southern and south-western borders. 
 
 The importance that E. Anglia soon obtained is shown by the fact 
 that Pi£edwald became one of the so-called " Bietwaldas," succeeding 
 .^thelbert of Kent. Rajdwald had been Christianized (apparently 
 baptized) in Kent ; but returning to his own. country, " he fell away 
 from the faith," and set up in the same temple an altar for the Christian 
 sacrifice, and one for offerings to devils. (" In eodem fano et altare 
 haberet ad sacrificiiun Christi, et arulam ad victimas da^moniorum." — 
 Bede, ' H. E.,' lib. ii., c. 15.) Eorpwald, his son, became a truer Chris-, 
 tian ; but after his death the kingdom returned to heathenism ; and 
 Christianity was not firmly planted in it until Sigeberht, brother of 
 Eorpwald, who had been exiled in Gaul, became there an earnest 
 disciple of the faith, and on his return and accession to the E. Anglian 
 
 h 2 
 
xxviii History. XoRi\ & Suff. 
 
 throne, was assisted in his labours of conversion by a BurL!;undian, 
 named Fehx, who became the first bisliop of East Anglia, and who 
 fixed the place of his see at " Domnoc," afterwards Dimwich. (See 
 Dumuich, Suffolk, Ete. 5.) Sigberht, " vir per omnia Christianis- 
 simns et doctissimus," in Bede's words, himself resigned his crown and 
 entered a monastery which he had Ibunded at Beodricsweorth — the 
 later St. Edmundsbury. (See Suffolk, lUe. 3.) Anna, a grandson of 
 Ejedwald, who afterwards became king of the E. Anglians, was 
 the father of ^theldrythc (Etheldreda), the foundress of Ely, and of 
 her sisters, Sexburh (Sexburga), ^Ethelburh (Ethelburga), and Wiht- 
 burh (Withburga), all of whom embraced the monastic life. (See 
 Cambridgeshire, Ely, Pite. 3). The passion for such retirement, so 
 frequent during the 7th and Sth centuries, was nowhere more strongly 
 developed than in the royal race of E. Anglia. 
 
 Under Ecgberht (a.d. 823), E. Anglia became a dependent ally of 
 Wessex. Kings of the old line continued to reign as vassals of the 
 W. Saxon overlord. The Danes, no doubt, had already appeared and 
 plundered on their coasts ; but it was not until the year 870 that the 
 great Scandinavian force, under Inguar and Hubha, burst upon E. 
 Anglia, plundered and destroyed the monasteries of the fens, defeated 
 and murdered the E. Anglian king, Edmund, who afterwards became 
 the great patron of the province, and one of the chief saints of England 
 (see Bury St. Edmund's, Suffolk, Rte. 3), and completely conquered 
 his country. The peace of Wedmore, arranged in 880 between Alfred 
 of Wessex and the Danish king, Guthrum, who was then baptised by the 
 name of ^thelstan, gave all E. Anglia, besides part of Mercia, to 
 the Danes — a proceeding which, as Mr. Freeman (' Norm. Conq.,' i. 189) 
 has pointed out, has its exact parallel in the later peace of Clair-on- 
 Epte (a.d. 912), between Charles the Simple and Duke Eobert of Paris 
 on the one side, and the famous Eolf on the other. In both cases the 
 conquering Northman was admitted to baptism, and received a definite 
 district, for which he became the king's vassal ; and, in both cases, the 
 territory ceded was not part of the king's immediate dominions. 
 (Local tradition asserted that Guthrum was buried at Hadleigh. See 
 Suffolk, Ete. 2). The later history .of the English " Denalagu," how- 
 ever, differed not a little from that of the Normandy of which Eolf w^as 
 the founder. The Normans never lost their hold on the territory they 
 acquired at the peace of Clair-on-Epte. Between 905 and 922 Edward 
 the Elder recovered the whole of E. Anglia and Essex from the Danish 
 yoke, and was welcomed by the English population as a deliverer. His 
 son, ^thelstan, effectually ruined (for a time) the Norse power in 
 England; and E. Anglia was placed from this period under the rule of 
 Ealdormen, until the great Earldoms of the 11th century arose. 
 
 Danish and Norwegian settlements had, no doubt, been made in E. 
 Anglia before and during the second great inroad of the Northmen on 
 Eastern England, which began about the year 991, when the battle of 
 Maldon was fought. (See Essex, Introd., and Ete. 4, Maldon.) A 
 Dane, however, or at least a man of Danish origin, as his name Ulf- 
 
IntrocT., § 18. History. xxix 
 
 cytel, proclaims, was the most vigorous defender of E. Anglia, and • 
 indeed of England, during the invasion of Swend (Sweyne), in the 
 summer of 1004. He attacked and inflicted heavy losses on the 
 Korthmen after their plunder of Thetford. (See Norfolk, lite. 12.) 
 
 The distribution and the boundaries of the later Earldoms, are some- 
 what uncertain ; but it would seem that in 1045 Harold, son of G od- 
 wine, governed, as Earl, the whole of E. Anglia, Cambridgeshire, and 
 Essex ; and that, at the end of 1065, after the death of Godwine, and 
 shortly before that of the Confessor, E. Anglia and Cambridgeshire 
 formed the earldom of Gyrth, Harold's brother, whilst Harold himself 
 had the whole of Southern England, — the ancient Wessex. (See the 
 maps -in Freeman'' s ' Norm. Conq.,' vol. ii.) 
 
 § 18. It is remarkable that so few names of places in Norfolk or Suffolk 
 can bo assigned to a Danish origin ; and the late Mr. Kemble's exi3lana- 
 tion, that the greater part of the country had been colonized and 
 peopled by Saxons (Anglians) before the Danes appeared, seems hardly 
 satisfactory. (See " The Bishops of EL Anglia," in the ' Arch. Journ.,' 
 Norwich volume). Other parts of England, which are now crowded 
 with Danish names, must have been well peopled with Englishmen 
 before the Danes took their places. It seems very probable, and the 
 fluctuating history of the province gives weight to the suggestion, 
 that, whilst the Danes established their mastery, at intervals, over the 
 whole of E. Anglia, they were never strongly represented there, and 
 that their settlements were few. In two only of the Norfolku Hndreds, 
 and those two of the smallest, E. and W. Flegg (Norse flegg, Danish 
 vhJc, flat) adjoining the coast N. of Yarmouth, we find a group of 
 local names ending in "by," and aifordins; nnmistakeable proof of their 
 imposition by Danish or Norwegian colonists. In Suff"olk there is not 
 a single local name which can with certainty be referred to the North- 
 men. The contrast in this respect of E. Anglia with parts of Yorkshire, 
 and especially with Cleavelancl — the decided Danish character of which, 
 in both dialect and local nomenclature, has been so thoroughly illus- 
 trated by the Kev. J. C. Atkinson (' Glossary of the Cleavcland Dia- 
 lect'), is very noticeable. The comparatively small size of the E. 
 Anglian Hundreds is perhaps a proof that the country was, at an early 
 period, well colonized and thickly peopled; but this would hardly have 
 prevented the Northmen from leaving some mark on the local names, 
 had they been permanently settled in anything like prevailing numbers. 
 (The area of the Norfolk hundred of Humbleyard, containing 19 town- 
 ships, each a parish, is only 22,620 acres — less than the area of many 
 single townships or parishes in Yorkshire and Lancashire). The 
 number of small churches about Norwich, and indeed throughout both 
 counties, may be regarded as another indication of early, and compari- 
 tively dense, population. 
 
 Some of the early legends connected with E. Anglia may as well be 
 Anglian as Danish. The romances of ' Horn Childe,' and ' Havelok 
 the Dane,' belong to this district ; and it is probable, according to 
 Kcmble, that the E. Anglian claim is the best to Gormund and Isen- 
 
XXX History. KoRF. & Suff. 
 
 bart, and the tales connected with them. The famous story of Eagnar 
 Lodbrog has also been, in one version (' Eog. Wendover,' i. 303) local- 
 ised here. According to this legend, Eagnar, with a single squire, was 
 driven ashore on the Xorfolk coast, and was received with great honour 
 and courtesy. His attendant slew him whilst hunting, and was there- 
 fore condemned by Edmund to be exposed in a boat upon the sea. He 
 was driven by winds and waves back to his native Scandinavia. There 
 he devised the story that Eagnar had been murdered by Edmund ; and 
 the sons of *Ea[inar, Inguar and Hubba, set forth at once to avenge 
 their father. The whole story of Eagnar has been relegated, by Mr. 
 Cox, to a place in ' Aryan Mythology.' Such legends prove the impres- 
 sion made liy the Danes throughout the country ; but they prove 
 nothing as to their permanent settlement. The list of personal names 
 still existing in E. Anglia collected by the late Dr. Donaldson (' Cam- 
 bridge Essays '), many of which are undoubtedly Northern, is certainly 
 remarkable, and may be set, so far as possible, against the absence of 
 Northern names of places. It should be observed, however, that these 
 names are found for the most part along the coast, and especially from 
 Yarmouth to Cromer, in the two Flegg hundreds (see ante). Among 
 them are Kettle (Ketil), Thurtle (thorketil), OUey (Olaf), Hacon 
 (Haco), Sharpin (Skarphethin), Hely (Helgi), and Grimes (Grimmr). 
 
 The following is a tolerably accurate list of Norfolk and Suffolk ter- 
 minations, by far the greater part of which, it will be seen, are Anglian 
 and not Scandinavian. 
 
 Norfolk : — ham (an enclosed place — a place " hemmed in ") 168 ; 
 ton, 135 ; inrj (as a medial), 78 ; ing (as termination), 74 ; thorp (a 
 "gathering of houses into villages" — 0. Norse, thyrping=a gathering, 
 the word is common in Denmark (torj), Dan.) and in Friezeland {therp, 
 Fris.) It is rare in Norway. It may perhaps, but not necessaril}-, 
 represent Danish influence in E. Anglia), 26 ; ford, 21 ; hy (certain!}' 
 northern), 21; hurgh, 19; ley, 19; ey, 15; tuick and ivich (mostly 
 inland), 13 ; sted, 13 ; field, 9 ; worth, 8 ; sett or seat, 7 ; wood, 6 ; welJ, 
 8 ; hoe (high ground — a hill in the midst of marshes), 4 ; den (wood, — 
 forest pasture), 4 ; holme (a green plot or meadow surrounded by marsh 
 or river), 3 ; toft (a " tuft " of trees, — the word is probably Anglian), 5 ; 
 hourne, 3 ; thicaite (a forest clearing, and in a secondary sense, a hamlet : 
 it is perhaps northern, and rather Norwegian than Danish), 2 ; icold, 
 2; strand (probably northern), 2 : haugh, 3 ; mer or mere (a lake), 6 ; 
 holt, shaw, heath, cot, 1 of each. 
 
 Suffolk : — ham, 84 ; ton, 88 ; ing, 17 ; thorpe, 5 ; horough or hury, 
 12 ; feld, 31 ; ley, 27 ; uvod, 1. 
 
 Of all the East Anglian endings, ham is the most frequent. It is 
 found all along the coast of the North Sea, and is common on the S.E. 
 side of Cambridgeshire, gradually ceasing as we advance westward. 
 The greater variety of local terminations in Norfolk than in Suffolk is 
 noticeable ; and it is in Norfolk alone that any terminations occur 
 which can possibly be regarded as northern. In both counties all the 
 teiminations imply a preponderance of habitable x^k'ices, and a country 
 
IntrocL, §§ 19, 20. Eistonj. xxxi 
 
 in whicli few hills or great woods were found by the first Anglian 
 settlers. 
 
 § 19. The ecclesiastical diocese of East Anglia, in accordance with 
 the usual rule, was at first conterminous with the kingdom. The see 
 was established, circ. 630, by Sigeberht and Felix, at Domnoc-ceastre 
 (Dunwich) — a place which had been a Roman station, as is sufficiently 
 proved by the remains which from time to time have been discovered 
 there. Among and with the help of, the lioman ruins, Sigeberht built 
 a church for Felix, and a palace for himself. Felix laboured through- 
 out East Anglia, and probably in parts of Northumbria, for 17 years, 
 dying, according to an old tradition, at Soham, in Cambridgeshire (see 
 J^Iy, Excursions,),' where he was buried. His relics were afterwards 
 enshrined at Eamsey. FeUxstowe, in Suffolk, is named from him ; 
 but the only East Anglian churches dedicated in his name are Babing- 
 ley in Norfolk, and Flixton (Felixton) in Suffolk. In Yorkshire the 
 churches of Feliskirk and Kirkby liavensworth are dedicated to St. 
 Felix. 
 
 Felix was succeeded in the see of Domnoc by three Englishmen. 
 The last of these bishops, Bisi, became incapable of discharging his 
 episcopal functions ; and Abp. Theodore, to whom the ecclesiastical 
 union of England is chiefly owing, divided the great E. Anglian diocese, 
 as he had divided others, establishing, as seems probable, a see for each 
 province— the " North-folk " and the " South-folk." The place of the 
 Norfolk see seems to have been fixed at North Elmham (see Norfolk, 
 Pite. 8) — although some claim has been set forth for South Elmham in 
 Suffolk (see Suffolk, Pite. 9). However this may be, the two sees 
 were apparently filled in regular succession, until the great irruption of 
 the Northmen in 870. There was not another bishop of East Anglia 
 for more than 80 years, when (a.d. 956) ^Ethelwulf was consecrated 
 by Abp. Odo, and the two sees were united. From this time East 
 Anglia contained but a single see, that of Elmham. There the see 
 was placed until (circ. 1080) Herfast, the first Norman bishop, in 
 obedience, apparently, to a decree of the Council of Loudon (1075), 
 which ordered the removal of bishops' sees from " villuke " to more 
 important towns, transferred it from Elmham to Thetford(see Norfolk, 
 Ete. 12). , From Thetford the third Norman bishop, Herbert Losinga, 
 removed the see to Norwich in the year 1094 ; and two years after- 
 Avards laid the stone of the existing cathedral. At Norwich the East 
 Anglian see has ever since remained. 
 
 § 20. The comparative isolation of East Anglia was felt long after 
 the Conquest. It may have been partly trusting to this, and to the 
 still independent feeling of the old Teutonic "kingdom" that Ralph of 
 "Wader, the Conqueror's Earl of Norfolk and Sufiblk, organized that 
 rising against William in 1076, which was speedily crushed, but for 
 his share in which Earl "Waltheof of Northumbria was beheaded at 
 Winchester in the Ibllowing year (see Norivich, Rte. 1). The position 
 of the country, opposite the coasts of Flanders and Holland, gave it an 
 especial importance until at least the end of the Plantagenet period. 
 
xxxii History. NoRF, & SuFF. 
 
 during which the intercourse, mainly with Flanders, was very con- 
 siderable, and the harhours at the mouth of the Orwell were the chief 
 ]ioints of de[)artnre and arrival. The support of Flemish mercenaries 
 (the same wild troops as the "rutffi " and the " Brabantini," who were 
 the dread of every country into which they came, — see for a full notice 
 of them Mr. Stubb's introduction to Bened. Abbas) was generally 
 sought for by the leaders on either side during the frequent struggles 
 between the king and the great barons, from the reign of Hen, II. to 
 that of Edw, I. In 1173 Avhen the sons of Hen, II. rose against their 
 father, and the powerful Hugh Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, was their chief 
 supjiortcr in East Anglia, a great body of Flemings, nnder the Earl of 
 Leicester, lauded at Walton on the Orwell, and proceeded to Framling- 
 ham Castle (see Suffolk, Ete. 5, where are references to the various 
 places in Norfolk and Suffolk connected with this rising). King John 
 promised to his Flemish auxiliaries the wdiole of Norfolk and Sufiblk 
 for their own ; and a vast bodj^ of them, coming to support the king 
 and to take ])ossession (if that had been possible) of their new territory, 
 were wrecked (1215) off the coast betw^een Dunwichand Yarmouth (see 
 Suffolk, Rte. 5, the Cnehingscmd). Flemings were employed during 
 the Barons' war ; and the great tumult at Norwich in 1272 was partly 
 owing to their having been retained by the prior (see Norfolk, Ete. 1). 
 On the other hand, more peaceful colonies of Flemings had been intro- 
 duced, perhaps under Henry III., — certainly by Edward I., — and were 
 settled in Norfolk as clothiers and woollen manufacturers. One of 
 their chief centres was Worstead (Nokfolk, Rte. 2), a i^lace which under 
 their influence gave name to the woollen fabric — first, perhaps, manu- 
 factured there. They settled also at Yarmouth. The great churches 
 there and at Worstead, besides numerous others throughout both 
 counties, are due to the prosperity thus introduced. Other important 
 centres of the woollen .trade were Hadleigh in Suffolk (Ete, 2), and 
 Sudbury (Essex, Ete. 8). In the neighbourhood of Hadleigh are the 
 villages of Kirsey and Lindsey — said, like AVorstead, to have given 
 name to the " kerseys " and " lindsey- woolseys " once so well known. 
 All this trade has long passed away to the North of England ; but, 
 although it was at once adopted by the inhabitants of East Anglia, 
 its introduction there was chiefly, if not entirely, due to Flemish colo- 
 nists. 
 
 The numbers of the East Anglian manuf<i.cturers — their rough inde- 
 pendence, and the dissatisfaction of large bodies of them at the manner 
 in which the great trade guilds were benefiting themselves by their 
 regulations, and injuring all who were unconnected with them — gave 
 much importance to the part played by Norfolk and Suffolk in the 
 rising in 1381, genei-ally known as Wat Tyler's (the chief events are 
 described nnder Xorn-ich (Norfolk, Ete. 1), and North Walsham 
 (Norfolk, Ete. 3). The "cross between the stationary element produced 
 by the isolation of the country on the one hand, and the progressive 
 influence produced by its maritime situation on the other," is certainly 
 traceable in this and in the earlier " commotions " of the East Anglian 
 
Introd., § 20, History. xxxiil 
 
 commons; and certainl}' not less so in the "rebellion" of tlie Ketts in 
 1549 (see it fully noticed under Norwich, Noefole, Kte. 1). Iliis 
 rising was by no means in defence of the " old religion." " In spite of 
 the strong counter influence of the povrerfiil Duke of Norfolk, and the 
 excessive severity of Nix, the last Koman Catholic bishop of Norwich, 
 we find that the middle and even the lower classes of Norfolk, Suffolk, 
 and we may add Cambridgeshire, took up the cause of the Reforma- 
 tion with a vehemence which, standing as it does alone, in the annals 
 of the period, must be traced to some such local circumstances as have 
 been mentioned, through which the similar fermentation then at its 
 height in Germany would act with peculiar force on this part of 
 England." — Stanhij, " On the part taken by Norfolk and Suftblk in 
 the Reformation," 'Journal of the Arch. Instit.,' Norwich volume. 
 
 The most noticeable of the early Protestants connected with East 
 Anglia, are Bilney, Bale, Parker, and Rowland Taylor. Bilney was 
 burnt at the Lollards' Pit, close to Norwich (see Norwich, Rte. 1). 
 Bale had been a Carmelite of Norwich, in which city Parker (the 
 future Archbishop of Canterbury) was born. Rowland Taylor was 
 long ' parson ' of Hadleigh in Suffolk, and suffered near that town in 
 1555. 
 
 Of Rett's rebellion. Dr. Stanley has noticed the following results or 
 memorials. "(1). The utter destruction of Thorpe Wood, which 
 apparently at that time (as may be seen from the frequent allusions 
 to the trees and thickets) had still covered at least the whole of the 
 southern side of the hill, and which was now burnt down by the 
 rebels to avoid ambushes. (2). The ' Homily on Rebellion,' which is 
 supposed to have been written especially against them. (3). The 
 institution of Lords-Lieutenants of Counties, in order that no part of 
 England might again be surprised by so sudden and formidable an 
 insurrection." Fuller, Bk. ix., 75, is the authority for the second 
 statement ; and Strype, vol. ii., 78, for the third. 
 
 Norfolk and Suffolk were among the counties associated for the 
 Parliament, against Charles I. In this manner they escaped to a great 
 extent the horrors of civil war, at the expense, as has been said, of 
 their loyalty. But, in fact, the same causes which had led to the 
 risings nnder Littester and Kett, w^ere still at work ; and the East 
 Anglian counties, like Henry Wynd, preferred " fighting for their own 
 hand," rather than giving their support to either party. During this 
 period little of importance ]mssed here, and the contrast between the 
 quiet of these Eastern Counties, and the tumult constantly raging 
 throughout the North and the West of England, is sufficiently 
 striking. 
 
 Two great naval engagements were fought in the reign of Charles II. 
 off the Suffolk coast, between the Dutch and English fleets. The first 
 took place off Lowestoft, June 3, 1665, when the English fleet was 
 commanded by the Duke of York, afterwards James II. ; and the 
 Dutch by Cornelius van Tromp. Juach fleet consisted of about 100 
 ships of war. The Dutch were completely defeated. (See Suffolk, 
 
 h 3 
 
xsxiv History. Korf. & Suff. 
 
 Etc. 5. Old Loiuestoft, — the CJturch). The second was the Sole Bay 
 or Southwold Bay fight, May 28, 1G72, when the English were again 
 commanded by the Duke of York, the Dutch by De Ruyter. (See 
 Suffolk, Bte. 5, Southwold.) 
 
 East Anglia has little later history. Until a comparatively recent 
 period, it retained its independent character, and Norwich continued to 
 be the centre of a district nearly as isolated as in the days when it 
 formed a separate kingdom. But railroads and modern improvements 
 have broken up the comparative seclusion of the country. Norwich, 
 although still an important centre, is no longer the city of Sir Thomas 
 Browne, or of Sir Robert Walpole ; and, like York, Exeter, oi* 
 Winchester — all once centres of similar " circles of national life " — its 
 chief interest lies in the memorials which connect it with the past, 
 rather than its modern movement and prosperity. 
 
 § 21. The Earldoms of Norfolk and Sufiblk were granted by the 
 Conqueror to a certain Ealph of AVader, who had fought on his side 
 at Hastings, and who is described as the son of an English father 
 and a Breton mother. His father's name was also Ealph ; and as he 
 also is called " Earl," he must, in King Edward's days, have held 
 some subordinate government under Gyrth. (See, for the evidence con- 
 cerning Ealph of Wader, Freeman's ' Norm. Conquest,' iii.. Appendix, 
 note LL). Ealph of Wader's honours were lost on his rebellion (see 
 wife, § 20). King Stephen conferred the joint earldoms on Hugh 
 Bigod ; in whose powerful house they continued, with some intermis- 
 sions, until the extinction of the race of Bigod in the 25th year of 
 Edward I. 
 
 In 1337, Eobert de Ufford was created Earl of Suffolk — holding 
 this earldom without that of Norfolk. The son of Eobert de Ufford, 
 who succeeded his father, died in 1382, and the earldom again became 
 extinct. In 1385, Michael de la Pole was created Earl of Suffolk by 
 Eichard II, Whilst held by the De la Poles, the earldom became a 
 dukedom ; and, with various forfeitures and regrants, it remained with 
 the De la Poles until the 'beheading, in 1513, of Edmund de la Pole, 
 with whom the race became extinct. Henry VIII. created his brother- 
 in-law, Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk ; and his son and successor 
 died in 1551 without issue. Henry Grey, Marquis of Dorset, who had 
 married Frances, daughter of Charles Brandon by Mary Tudor, was 
 created Duke of Suffolk in 1551. He was beheaded for his share 
 in the attempt to place his daughter, Lady Jane Grey, on the throne. 
 The peerage remained dormant until the reign of James L, when 
 Thomas Howard, Baron Howard of Walden, youngest son of Thomas 
 Howard, Duke of Norfolk, was created Earl of Suffolk (1603). With 
 his heirs and descendants it has ever since continued. 
 
 After the extinction of the Bigods, Thomas of Brotherton, Earl 
 Marshal, son of Edward I., became Earl of Norfolk. The great family 
 of Mowbray became Dukes of Norfolk ; and from them the dukedom 
 passed to the Howards, who still retain it. They possess, however, 
 at present, but little property in the Eastern Counties. 
 
Introd., § 22. Antiquities. xxxv 
 
 Antiquities. 
 Under this head it will be desirable to notice each county separately. 
 
 SUFFOLK. 
 
 § 22. Primaeval, British, and Boman. 
 
 The Eastern Counties are at present entirely without those rude 
 stone monuments which are usually assijined to the class of primgeval 
 antiquities. The want of stone fitted for the purpose may be one 
 reason for the absence of great cromlechs and circles ; but some may 
 have been destroyed ; and it is certain that a circle of stones 10 ft. 
 high was removed from a field at Gorleston, near Yarmouth, in 1768 
 (see Suffolk, Ete. 5). liemembering, however, the close neighbour- 
 hood of Gorleston to the two Hundreds of Flegg in Norfolk, where 
 the Korthmen unquestionably settled themselves, — and also the fact 
 that such stone circles were raised in Denmark and Sweden at a com- 
 paratively late period, — it seems not im23robable that the Gorleston 
 circle may have marked the resting-place of some heathen " Orm " or 
 " Ketil " who was among the first to lead his followers across the sea 
 to England. 
 
 The remains found in the gravel-pits at Hoxne, and at some other 
 places in the valley of the Waveney (see Ete. 9), are truly primasval, — 
 belonging as they do, to the earliest pala^o-lithic period. The circum- 
 stances under which they are found will be more properly noticed 
 under the head of Geolog}^ (§ 38). The remains consist of rude flint 
 weapons and implements of the usual type. 
 
 Numerous barrows and tumuli exist in different parts of Suftblk, 
 especially on the heaths in the N. W. corner of the county. There 
 are some important tumuli near Fornham St. Gene'vieve (Ete. 3) ; and 
 others near Thetford. Between Aldborough and Snape (Ete. 5) is a 
 group of remarkable barrows apparently of diflerent dates. In one 
 of them an interment had been made within a boat or vessel (see 
 Ete. 5). 
 
 Throughout both Xorfolk and Sufiblk (and in all probability in 
 many other parts of England) mediaeval castles have been built on 
 and around lofty mounds — partly natural, partly artificial — which, no 
 doubt, mark the sites of strongholds belonging to very early times. 
 They are possibly British ; and they seem frequently to have been 
 turned to account during the Eoman and early English periods, before 
 the Normans took possession of them. The best examples are in 
 Norfolk, and have been most carefully examined, planned, and 
 described by Mr. Harrod in his valuable ' Castles and Convents of 
 Norfolk;' but in Suffolk, examples of such mounds, and of large 
 earthworks surrounding them, exist at Clare (Ete. 4), at Haughley 
 (Ete. 6), at Eye (Ete. 7), at Denham and Lydgate (Ete. 3), and at 
 Bungay (Ete. 9). The enormous mound and dykes at Thetford arc, 
 
xxxvi Antiquities. Suffolk. 
 
 ill fact, on the Suffolk side of tlio river .Thet; but Tlietford is claimed 
 by Norfolk. The manner in which these mounds and dykes were used 
 by mediaival enptineers, will be seen by a reference to Castle Acre 
 (Norfolk Rte. 7), and Castle Kising (Norfolk, Rte. 9). It may here 
 be said, that where the mound existed it was generally occupied by a 
 polygonal shell of masonry (as at Clare), and the more usual rectan- 
 gular keep is wanting. The shell of masonry " being upon steep and 
 high ground, w^as out of the reach of ordinary attacks, and from its 
 great height commanded the other defences as effectually as w^ould 
 the regular keep." — G. T. Clark, " On Mediaeval Military Archi- 
 tecture in England," ' Archfeol. Journal,' vol. xxiv. Saffron Walden 
 and Oxford are probably the onh^ two examples in England of the 
 rectangular keep ami the mound in one fortress. 
 
 There were probably Roman fortified stations at Walton, near 
 Felixstowe (Rte. 1), at the mouth of the Orwell, and at Dunwich. 
 Roman remains have been found at, and in the neighbourhood 
 of, both these places ; — at Walton in great numbers. But the 
 fortresses themselves have perished ; and probably in both instances 
 have been undermined and swallowed by the sea. Walton is said to 
 derive its name from the Roman work which once existed there. It 
 is worth remarking that the first churches raised by St. Felix seem 
 to have been established in or close to these Roman castra ; just as 
 St. Cedd among the East Saxons established his among the Roman 
 ruins at Tilbury and " Ithanceastre " (see Essex, Introd., § 6, and 
 Rtes. 1 and 4). In the same manner. Burgh Castle (Suffolk, Rte. 5) 
 was taken possession of by the Scot Fursjeus. Burgh is the most 
 important Roman relic in Suffolk, and one of the most perfect in Eng- 
 land. Like other fortresses along this coast, it was under the com- 
 mand of the Count of the Saxon Shore, and like them was built as 
 a defence against the Northmen and pirates who were already threaten- 
 ing Britain. 
 
 Roman relics have been found at Icklingham (Rte. 3), a -place which 
 has been regarded as the old capital of the Iceni (see ante, § 1(3). The 
 dykes and fosses round Ickliniiham are also noticeable. Scole (Rte. 9), 
 and Ilelmingham (lUe. 7) have also yielded Roman and Roman- 
 British remains. The discoveries at Helmingham are especially 
 curious. 
 
 The museums at Ipswich (Rte. 1) and at Bury St. Edmund's 
 (Rte. 3) contain many British and Roman remains, of great interest, 
 discovered at different times in various parts of the country. Ipswich 
 is rich in Walton and Felixstowe relics. 
 
 The ancient (Roman) roads of Suffolk and Norfolk have not been 
 examined so carefully as to render their lines in all cases certain. The 
 principal Suffolk road was a continuation of that which ran from 
 London through Essex. It entered the county near Stratford St. 
 Mary's, and passed by Needham Market and the Stonhams to the 
 river Waveney at Billingford. Thence it ran to the great Roman 
 station at Caister near Norwich. Another important road crossed the 
 
lutrocL, §§ 23, 24. Antiquities. xxxvli 
 
 country from Sti-atford to Tbctford ; and ran thence througli Norfolk 
 (where it is called the Peddar Way) to Brancaster, ou the north 
 coast. Lesser roads connected the Roman station at Dunwich with the 
 main road running from Stratford to Caister. 
 
 The Eoman stations in both counties have not been satifactorily 
 identified. The fifth of the Antonine Itinera records stations at — 
 
 M. P. 
 
 Cffisaromagus (distant from London) XXYIIL 
 
 Colonia (from Cresaromagus) XXIV. 
 
 Villa Faustini (from Colonia) XXXV. 
 
 Iciani (from V. Faust.) XVIIL 
 
 Camboricum (from Iciani) XXXV. 
 
 Cojsaromagus Avas at or near Chelmsford. Colonia is Colchester. 
 Villa Faustini is uncertain — but it has been proposed to fix it at 
 Bury St. Edmund's. Iciani or Iceanum has been placed at Chesterford 
 (Essex, Ete. 11), perhaps not quite satisfactorily. Camboricum is 
 Cambridge. The ninth Iter — from Norwich (Venta Icenorum) to 
 London — mentions 
 
 M. p. 
 
 Sitomagus (from Venta) XXXII. 
 
 Combretonium (from Sitomagus) .. ., .. .. XXII. 
 
 AdAnsam XXV. 
 
 Camulodunum VI. 
 
 Of these, Sitomagus has been placed by some at Dunwich, — and 
 by other antiquaries at Thetford. Combretonium is quite uncertain. 
 It has sometimes been placed at Burgh near Woodbridge. Ad Ansam 
 may have been at Stratford, where the road crossed the river Stonr ; 
 and Camulodunum is Colchester. 
 
 § 23. Medictval Antiquities. — Ecclesiastical. 
 
 The Eastern Counties are exceedingly rich in fine churches. Their 
 architectural peculiarities are in many respects noticeable ; and the 
 antiquary who is acquainted only with the churches of the West or 
 South of England, will find himself in a comparatively new world 
 when he enters Norfolk and Suifolk. A tour for the sake of these 
 churches alone wall prove one of great interest and enjoyment. 
 
 The chief features which are peculiar to these counties are — the 
 combination of flint and stone, forming what has been called " flush- 
 work : " the round tow^ers : the richly decorated fonts : and the 
 elaborate and magnificent woodwork, — in roofs, rood-screens, and 
 bench-ends. 
 
 § 24. In the flusli-ivork — w^hich occurs in almost every great church 
 in Suffolk — the flint forms the panel " the stone being on the same 
 face, without any moulded work, and not even raised from the sur- 
 face but forming the margin or division betAveen the panels. The 
 beauty and almost endless variety of this work are amazing. It is. 
 
xxxviii Antiquities. Suffolk. 
 
 employed generally throughout an entire building ; but the part on 
 which most care seems to have been lavished, is the porch ; and here 
 it would be difficult to surpass the delicacy of its execution." It is 
 conspicuous, too, on the parapets of the lofty and finely-proportioned 
 towers ; and is often wrought into long inscriptions. 
 
 It was chiefly, if not exclusively, used during the later Dec. and 
 the Perp. periods. Such work seems to be confined to this country. 
 It is not found in France, in Belgium, or along the shores of the 
 Baltic ; and it may be referred to as a proof (among many others) of 
 the independence and originalit}^ of English architects and workmen. 
 The want of good building-stone in these eastern counties, and the 
 profusion of flints on their coasts, may well have given rise to this 
 beautiful panelwork. No better example can be pointed out of the 
 advantage to be gained by the judicious use of local materiaL 
 
 § 25. The round cJairch-fowers are almost confined to the old limits 
 of East Anglia. There are two in Berkshire, two in Sussex, one in 
 Surrey, one in Northamptonshire, two in Cambridgeshire, and seven in 
 Essex ; whilst in Norfolk there are 125, and in Suffolk, 40. Much 
 antiquarian energy and research have been expended on them ; and it 
 was long the fashion to regard them as of Danish origin, and the work 
 of builders from the time of "Sweyne to that of Harthacnut. But such 
 towers are not found in Denmark ; nor do they occur in those parts 
 of Northumbria which were most largely colonized by Danes. More- 
 over, their workmanship is by no means so rude or simple as has been 
 asserted ; and in some instances their upper portions display elaborate 
 ornament, unquestionably of Norman .character. The truth seems to 
 be, that while the greater number are of Norman date, a few may be 
 earlier, and more later; and that, constructed of flint (as they are 
 without exception), " they are built round to suit the material, and to 
 save the expense of the stone quoins for the corners, which are neces- 
 sary for square towers, and which often may not have been easy to pro- 
 cure in districts where building-stone has all to be imported. The same 
 cause accounts for the frequent and long-continued use in the same dis- 
 tricts of flat bricks or tiles for turning the arclies over the doors and 
 windows, which are either of Roman manufacture, or an imitation 
 of the same form." — /. //. Parker. Mr. Eoberts (' Journ. of Arch. 
 Assoc.,' vol. xxi.) suggests that they ma}^ all have been built by 
 one class (or lodge) of workmen ; and assigns for their erection the 
 period between 1100 and 1150. They are all of tlie same material 
 and shape ; and, with one exception (St. Mary's, Wortham Everaxd, 
 in Suffolk, — which is larger than the others), all are of the same 
 dimensions. They are without staircases, like the Irish round towers ; 
 and, like them, unquestionably served as belfries. In man}^ instances 
 the ancient church has been replaced by a more modern structure, 
 while the tower remains. None of these towers are lofty. They rise 
 to about 60 ft., with a diameter of about 16 ft., much of which is 
 generally taken up by the thickness of the walls. It may be added 
 that the finest and most noticeable round towers are in Suflblk. 
 
Introd., §§ 26, 27, 28. Antiquities. xxxix 
 
 Those of Lil tic Saxliain and Herringfleet, especially, have very rich 
 Norman work in their npper stories. 
 
 § 26. The ojjen roofs and ivoodworh of Norfolk and Suffolk are 
 magnificent. Indeed, the roofs are unrivalled; and no other part of 
 England can display anything like so numerous or so fine examples. 
 They are almost entirely Perpendicular ; and of the " double hammer- 
 beam " design. They are greatly enriched with carved figures — some- 
 times small whole-lengths, as at St. Mary's, Bury St. Edmund's 
 (where is one of the best roofs in Suffolk). Suffolk has many fine 
 roofs ; but perhaps the best, and certainly the greater number, are in 
 Norfolk, — often (as at Salle and Cawston) in churches remote from 
 any of the larger towns. Devonshire is the only English county 
 where the woodwork is at all equal to that of Norfolk and Suffolk ; 
 but the Devonshire woodwork is confined to rood-screens, parcloses, 
 bench-ends, and carved pulpits. There are no roofs at all resembling 
 those of the Eastern Counties. It is probable that, as was certainly 
 the case in Devonshire, the " mystery " of wood-carving in Norfolk 
 was confined to certain guilds or families in which it remained to the 
 last. 
 
 The rood-screens and parcloses of Norfolk and Suffolk are veiy 
 elaborate and beautiful. As in Devonshire, their lower panels are 
 generally solid, and painted with figures of saints. These, of course, 
 vary ; but the local St. ICdmund is generally found, and may be re- 
 cognized by the arrows which he holds in his hand. On the doors 
 opening to the chancel, the four Doctors of the Latin Church were 
 frequently represented. The tracer}^ of the screens themselves is of a 
 difiereut type to that of Devonshire. The heads* of the arches are 
 much less filled ; and the whole work has a lighter and more delicate 
 appearance. 
 
 As in Devonshire, the whole screen was richly painted and gilt ; and 
 much of this colouring still remains. In many Norfolk churches 
 carved screens and galleries remain at the west end of the church, 
 under the tower, and across the tower arch ; and this in churches 
 where the rood-loft, properly so-called, still exists across the chancel 
 arch. Mr. Parker suggests that this double rood-loft was anciently to 
 be found in many other counties ; " but the western loft has generally 
 been destroyed in consequence of the barbarous custom of blocking 
 up the tower-arch, which is often the finest feature in the church." 
 
 § 27. The fonts in both counties are often very fine, and have been 
 greatly enriched ; though unfortunately the zeal of various Dowsings 
 has been unsparimzly exercised on them at difterent times. The 
 greater number are Perpendicular. They are generally raised on steps. 
 Their shafts are richly sculptured, displaying angels, emblems of the 
 Evangelists, and figures of saints. The octangular bowl is frequently 
 carved with representations of the Crucifixion and of the seven Sacra- 
 ments. Many fonts have inscriptions. 
 
 § 28. Suffolk and Norfolk are richest in churches of the Perpen- 
 dicular period ; when the cloth trade was flourishing in both counties, 
 
xl Antiquities. Suffolk. 
 
 and the great Flemish cities, ^vith which there was constant intercourse, 
 were in their highest si)lendour. There are, however, interesting 
 examples, in both counties, of earlier date. 
 
 The most important Suffolk churches may be classified as follows : — 
 
 English before the Conquest. — No remains, and no portions of churches 
 exist which are certainly more ancient than 1006. The tower of 
 Flixton Church (Rte. 9) was perhaps earlier; but it is no longer 
 standing. The lower part of the round tower of Iloli/ Trinity Church, 
 Bungay (Rte. 9) has been called ' Saxon ' — but there is nothing by 
 which its date can be determined with certainty. The lower part of 
 the tower at Dehenham (Ete. 7) is very early. The ruins of the ' Old 
 Minster,' in St. George's, South Elmham (Rte, 9), are worth examina- 
 tion. It is especially noticeable that the ' Domesday Survej^ ' records 
 the existence of no less than 364 churches in Suffolk. 
 
 Norman. — The round towers, as has already been said, are for the 
 most part of this date. There is good Norman work in the upper part 
 of the towers at * Little Saxhain (Rte. 3), and of * TIerringfieet (Rte. 5). 
 In other respects the county is not rich in Norman architecture. The 
 ruined choir (late Norm.) of *0/yb7YZ Church (Rte. 5) is interesting 
 and unusual. The finest Norman (ecclesiastical) relic in Suffolk is the 
 *f/a^e tower of the Abbey at Bury St. Edmund's Rte. (3). Eaivstead 
 (Rte. 3) ; Bickinghall Inferior (Rte. 9) have Norm, portions. At 
 Dunwich (Rte. 5)"are the Norm, ruins of St. James's Chapel. 
 
 Early English. — * Little Wenham (Rte. 2) of the same date and 
 character as the very curious manorhouse. Haivstead (Rte. 3, chancel). 
 Clare (Hte. 4, portions). 
 
 Decollated. — Tru^ Decorated work, like Early English, is rare. There 
 are portions of this date in St. Margaret's, Ipswich (iUe. 1) ; Bocrford 
 (Rte. 2); Keddington (Rte, 4); * Orford (Rte. 5); Wichham Market 
 (Rte. 5); *Frarnh'ngham (Rte. 5); "^ Bennington (Rte. 5); Laafeld 
 (Rte. 5); Gorleston (Rte. 5); *Bcn^lnng (Hte. 6); Stowmarhet (Rte. 
 6) ; Stonliam Aspcdl (Rte. 6) ; Buxhall (Rte. 6, a good Dec. church) ; 
 *WooIpit (Rte. 6, church Dec, with very fine Perp. roofs) ; Elmsivdl 
 (Rte. 6); Brome (Rte. 7); Dehenham (Rte. 7) ; *Biirgate (Rte. 8, a 
 Dec. church, containing a fine brass and a good chest) ; *Bedgrare 
 (Rte. 9, very fine Dec.) ; "^IVingfield (Rte. 9, late Dec.) ; and Barsham 
 (Rte. 9, early Dec.) Nearly all these churches, however, are only 
 Decorated in portions ; and none of them equal the grandeur and im- 
 portance of the 
 
 Perpendicular. — Of these the chief are — *East Bergholt (Rte. 1, 
 panelled in flint and stone, fine) ; St. Margaret's Ipswich (Rte. 1, 
 good) ; *Hadleigh (Rte. 2, the church contains some earlier portions) ; 
 * Stoke-hy-Nayland {Wie. 2, with fine tower); Boxford (Rte. 2, rich 
 porches); *Long Melford (Rte. 3, very fine, of flmt and stone, with 
 some brasses and ancient stained glass) ; *Lavenham (Rte. 3, late Perp., 
 and very fine) ; Bury St. EdniuncVs (Rte. 3, the churches of * St. James 
 and St. Mary are both fine Perp. In St. ISIarj^'s is a magnificent ojDcn 
 roof); Ilengrave (Rte. 3, very late, with monument of the Countess of 
 
IntrocL, § 29. Antiquities. xli 
 
 Bath) ; Ilawstead (Rte. 3, witli some brasses, and tomlis of the Drurys) ; 
 Ickworth (Rte. 3, with a good tower) f* Bardwell (Hte. 3, chiefly Perp., 
 but Avith some Dec. portions. Here is some old glass) ; Cavendish 
 (Rte. 4); Clare (Rte. 4, chiefly Perp.); * Keddinrjtoii (lite. 4, chiefly 
 Perp, with many Barnardiston monuments) ; Play ford (Rte. 5, with 
 fine brass, date 1400) ; * Woodbridge (Rte. 5, panelled flint and stone, 
 with fine tower); '^ Orford (Rte. 5, partly Perp.); Ufford (lite. 5, 
 with very fine font cover) ; Wichham Mai^het (Rte. 5, partly) ; *Farham 
 (Rte. 5, with a rood screen and much good work) ; * FramUngJiam 
 (Rte. 5, chiefly Perp. — a fine church, rich in monuments); ^Benning- 
 ton (Rte. 5, chiefly Perp., a fine church, with good wood-work, tombs, 
 and ancient glass); *LaxfieJd (Rte, 5, chiefly Perp., with good wood- 
 work, glass, and a fine font); * Cratfield (Rte. 5, fine font); *BIyth- 
 hurgh (Rte. 5, verj'- good, with fine wood-work) ; *SotttJiwoId (Rte. 5, fine 
 stone and flint-work : good rood loft) ; Halesworth (Rte. 5, fine font) ; 
 *SotterIey (Rte. 5, good brasses and stained glass) ; Lowestoft, St. 3Iar- 
 garefs (lite. 5); Stoneham Earl CRte. 6; good clerestory and timber 
 roof); * Wetherden (Rte. 6 ; the nave, fine roof and good monument); 
 Helmingham (Rte. 7 ; portions) ; Brome (Rte. 7 ; portions) ; Behen- 
 ham (Rte. 7 ; portions) ; *Eye (Rte. 7 : a fine church of stone and 
 flint, w^ith good rood screen) ; '*Bacfon (Rte. 8 ; portions, fine Perp. 
 roof) ; Stoiu Langtoft (Ete. 9 ; early Perp., good) ; Walsham-Ie- Willows 
 (Rte. 9 ; a fine church) ; * Barningham (Rte. 9 ; with very good rood 
 screen) ; Jlickinghall Inferior (Rte. 9 ; portions) ; B'ressingfield (Rte. 
 9 ; portions) ; ^'Bungay, St. Mary's (Rte. 9 ; a noble Perp. tower) ; 
 Beccles (Rte. 9 ; very fine church, with enriched porch). The fine 
 Perpendicular churches at * Sudbury are described in Essex, Rte. 8. 
 
 Of all these churches, those marked with a * are the most deserving 
 of attention. 
 
 The best roofs are at Stonham AspaU and Stonliam Earl ; at 
 Wetherden ; Woolpit ; Lavenham ; Long Melford ; and Bacton. The 
 best rood-screens and j)arcloses at Barking ; Grundisburgh ; Southivold ; 
 Blythburgh ; Woolpit; LMvenliam ; Stoke-by- Nayland ; Eye; Par- 
 ham; LMxfield ; and Bennington. There are fine doors in many 
 churches, especially at Stoke-by -Nayland. The font cover at Ufford 
 is an excellent example. The church of Tuddenham retains its ori- 
 ginal wood-fittings. The ha^t fonts are at Tuddenham ; Woodbridge ; 
 Blythburgh; Cratfield; Lavenham; Stoke; Burgate ; Redgrave; and 
 Wortham Everard. The new church of St. Mary's-at-Tower, in Ips- 
 wich, deserves special notice. 
 
 Besides the round towers of lAttle Saxham and Herringfleet, already 
 mentioned, there are very interesting examples at Bushmere and Blun- 
 deston. 
 
 § 29. In Erwarton Church (Rte. 1) are three fine monuments of the 
 Decorated period. The Howard monuments at Framlingham (Rte. 5) 
 are very interesting and important. • The tomb of I>ord Bardolph in 
 Bennington Church (Rte. 5) is also very fine. At Wingfield (Rte. 9) 
 are some very interesting monuments of Wingfields and De la Poles. 
 
xlii Antiquities. Suffolk. 
 
 These are perhaps the most important momiments (altar-tombs) in 
 the coimty. Of brasses the best are at Acton (date 1302) ; Burgate 
 (date 1409); Bury St: JEdmumrs (St. Mavfs, date 1480) ; Gorleston 
 (circ. 1320) ; Ipsivich (St. Mary Quay, 1525) ; Long Melford (circ. 
 1420) ; Nayland (many) ; Orford (many) ; Playford (date L400) ; 
 Sottertey (many) ; and Stoke-hy- Nayland (many). 
 
 At Culford Chm-ch (Rte. 3) is a seated figure of Lady Bacon (Yeru- 
 Lam), which should be compared with that of Lord Bacon in St. 
 Michael's Church, St. Alban's. 
 
 § 30. The great Benedictine Abbey at Bury St. Edmund's so com- 
 pletely overshadowed the county that there was little space for other 
 monastic foundations. The remains at Bury cover an enormous extent 
 of ground ; but the only portions of great interest are the two gate- 
 houses; one Norman, the other Decorated (see Pite. 3). These are 
 very important. At Clare (Rte. 4) are -portions of the Augustinian 
 Priory (Austin Friars, not Canons) converted into a dwelling-house. 
 At Butley (Rte. 5) the fine Dec. gate-house of the Priory (Augustinian 
 Canons) remains. At Dunwich (Rte. 5) are ruins of the Grey Friar's 
 Monastery ; and at Leiston (Rte. 5) are more extensive ruins (Perp.) 
 of the Abbey (Premonstratensian Canons). 
 
 § 31. Military and Domestic Architecture. — Of the Suffolk castles, 
 by far the most interesting are Framlingham (Rte. 5), chiefly of the 
 time of Edward III. ; and Orford (Rte. 5), a very perfect and unusual 
 Norman keep, well worth attention. At Clare (Rte. 4) there are few 
 remains of masonry ; and besides the interest of the site, the great 
 mound and intrenchments (see ante, § 22) are the chief points to be 
 noticed. There are great castle mounds at Eye (Rte. 6) and at Haugli- 
 ley (Rte. 6), and at one or two other places before-mentioned (ante, 
 § 22). Some portions of Wingfield Castle (Rte. 9) remain, and the 
 towers and entrenchments of Bungay (Rte. 9) are interesting. The 
 gate-house of Mettingliam Castle, temp. Ed. III. (Rte. 9) remains, with 
 portions of other buildings. 
 
 In Domestic Architecture Suffolk is very rich. The earliest house 
 remaining is the so-called Moyses Hall at Bury St. Edmund's (Rte. 3). 
 This is a 'Jew's house' of the 12th century, and maybe compared 
 with the more famous and somewhat earlier house at Lincoln, Little 
 Wenham Hcdl (Rte. 2) is of the reign of Henry III., and is remarkable 
 from the materials of which it is built — brick and flint. Portions re- 
 maining at Parham (Rte. 5) are of the 15th century ; the gateway is 
 later. Lladleigh Llectory Tower (Rte. 2) dates from 1495. Gilfard's 
 Hall (Rte. 2) is temp. Hen. YIII. Cochjield Hall (Rte. 5) is of "brick, 
 temp. Hen. YIII,, but has been much spoiled. Helmingham Hall 
 (Rte. 7) is of the same age. Hengrave Hall, dating between 1525 and 
 1538, is one of the best and most perfect Tudor houses remaining in 
 England. There are fine Elizabethan houses at Melford Hall (Rte. 3), 
 Kent well (Rte. 3 ; this house is unaltered) ; Boxted (Rte. 3) ; Coldham 
 (Rte. 3) ; BushhrooJiC LIcdl (Rte. 3) ; and Brome Hall (Rte. 7), Easton 
 (Rte. 3) is of Charles ll.'s time. Hardwicke House (Rte. 3) was rebuilt 
 
Introd., §§ 32, 33. Antiquities. xliii 
 
 ill 1681, but lias since been iniicli altered. Important modern houses 
 are — Ickworth (Rte. 3) ; Henliam (lite. 5) ; Eeveningham //a/Z(Rte. 5) ; 
 SomerJeyton Hall (Rte. 5) ; liedgrave (Rte. 9) ; Oakley Farh (Rte. 9) ; 
 and Flixton Hall (Rte. 9), dating from 1615, but nearly rebuilt of late 
 years. 
 
 Tlie old inn at Scale (Rte. 9), of Cliaiies II.'s time, may also be here 
 mentioned. 
 
 § 32. Collections oi pictures and other works of art are — Orwell Park 
 (Rte. 1), where are some of the finest Murillos in this country ; Ick~ 
 tuorth (Rte. 3) ; Buslibrooke Hall (Rte. 3 ; many portraits) ; Hardwicke 
 House (Rte. 3 ; pictures and antiquities) ; Barton Hcdl (Rte. 3; a very 
 important collection, rich in works of Sir Joshua Reynolds) ; Huston 
 (Rte. 3 ; family portraits) ; and JSornerleyton (Rte. 5), where are some 
 frescoes by Maclise, and other good modern pictures. 
 
 Antiquities. — Norfolk. 
 § 33. — Frimceval, British, and Boman. 
 
 Remains of ' lake-dwellings ' have been found in Norfolk, on the 
 draining of two large meres in the parish of Wretham, near Thetford 
 (Rte. 12). The heaths in that neighbourhood are covered with dykes, 
 trenches, and tumuli ; perhaps of various ages. " Grimes Graves," 
 adjoining one of these dykes, called the " Fendyke " (Rte. 12) is an 
 assemblage of pits within an embankment, probably marking the site 
 of a primitive village. Many similar collections of pits exist in the 
 neighbourhood of the north coast, and are found in different parishes 
 between Sheringham and Weybourne (Rte. 4 ; where they are fully 
 described). They seem to prove that the Norfolk coast, at any rate, 
 was thickly populated at a very early period. 
 
 Such relics are probably of much greater antiquity than the time of 
 the Roman Conquest, or than the flourishing period of the Iceni, before 
 it. To the Iceni njay perhaps be assigned the great castle mounds 
 which have already (§ 22) been mentioned ; those, for example of Nor- 
 wich (Rte. 1) of Castle Acre (Rte. 7), and of Castle Rising (Rte. 9). 
 Many Britisli relics discovered in tumuli and elsewhere, are preserved 
 in the museum at Norwich (Rte. 1). 
 
 Of Boman remains the most imjjortant in Norfolk are the camps at 
 Caister and at Tasburgh ; and the foundations (for little more is now 
 left) of the gi'eat fortified station at Brancaster. Caister (Rte. 1), if 
 not the true Venta Icenorum, was at least closely connected with it ; 
 and the entire absence of Roman relics at Norwich is remarkable. 
 Tashuryh (possibly the Roman " ad Tavum ") was a strong camp on 
 the line of the chief Roman road from Londinium to Venta, at the 
 point where it crossed the Taes river. An ancient cliurch now stands 
 within the entrenchment. Brancaster (Rte. 9), Branodunum, was 
 apparently the most northerly of the stations which guarded the 
 " JSaxon shore," and was the only one in Norfolk. The station at 
 
xliv Antiquities. Norfolk. 
 
 Burgh (Suffolk, Tlte. 5) watched the entrance of the Yare ; and the 
 Norfolk coast, stretching round to the washes at the montli of the Ouse 
 and the fen rivers, had no rivers uj) which the ships of the " Saxon" 
 invaders coidd fioat, and scarcely a -harbour into which they could 
 venture. Brancaster protected the entrance of the Wash. 
 
 The Romans, no doubt, also occupied and enlarged the earlier British 
 strongholds at Castle Acre and Castle Rising ; and the manner in "which 
 they did so is duly described in Rtes. 7 and 9. Of Roman roads in 
 this country, it has been certainly ascertained that one (in continuation 
 of that running through Suffolk) extended from the Waveney to 
 Caister ; and that another, known at present as the " Peddar's Way," 
 went from Thetford, by Swaffham and Castle Acre to Brancaster. The 
 course of the Tcenhilde Way, eastward of Icklingham and Newmarket, 
 after it passed into the present county of Norfolk, has not been clearl}^ 
 ascertained. Most probably, according to a very ancient tradition, it 
 ran to the sea (the Icenhilde and the Foss are said to have passed 
 across the island, " from sea to sea "), and, if Norwich Castle was a 
 chief stronghold of the Iceni, it may have made for that. (See 
 " Remarks on the Icenhilde Way," by A. Taylor, in the Norwich vol. 
 of the Archaeological Institute). It must be remembered that the 
 Icenhilde was a British, and not (at first) a Roman road ; and that it 
 never seems to have been a " street," or " via strata." It is still known 
 as the " drift way," " track way/' " bridle way," all names jDointing to 
 its primitive condition. 
 
 No remains of any important villa have been discovered in Norfolk ; 
 and it docs not appear that the country was at any time greatly attrac- 
 tive to its Roman masters. 
 
 § 34. Mediceval aniiquities. — Ecclesiastical. 
 
 Norfolk is rich in fine churches ; the greater number of which, as in 
 Suffolk, are of the Perpendicular period. This was no, doubt, the most 
 prosperous time for both counties. Yarmouth, King's Lynn, and 
 Norwich then abounded in wealthy merchants. There were many 
 powerful nobles, the chief being the great Duke of Norfolk ; and the 
 religious houses scattered over the county were rich and flourishing. 
 Some of the best of the Norfolk Perpendicular churches were, no doubt, 
 built hj manufacturers and guilds of merchants, many of wdiom 
 rivalled, and exceeded, the architectural works of the great Flemish 
 traders at Bruges or Ypres. 
 
 The general characteristics of Norfolk churches resemble those of 
 Suffolk, and have already (§ 23) been noticed. The woodwork is often 
 very rich, and the roofs, especially, are finer than those of the neigh- 
 bouring county. The use of flints in " flush-work " is by no means 
 so general. Round towers are numerous ; but the only example in 
 Norfolk which equals those at Little Saxham and Herringfleet in Suf- 
 folk, is the Norman round tower of Haddiscoe. The Norfolk fonts are 
 especially fine ; and there are many examj)les of lofty and elaborate 
 font covers. 
 
 The number of small parish churches in Norfolk completely or 
 
Introd., § 34. Antiquities. xlv 
 
 partly in ruins is very noticeable. This may be partly owing to a 
 decrease of population, following on the decline of the cloth trade ; 
 but it is also worth remarking that Norfolk abounded in small local 
 shrines and relics, and that, after the change of the 16th century, some 
 of the churches which contained these shrines, and which lost much by 
 the absence of pilgrims, fell consequently into decay. Such was the 
 case w^ith the church of Bawburgh, near Norwich (Kte. 1) where was 
 the shrine of St. Walstan ; and there were, doubtless, many others 
 w^hich suffered in the same manner. 
 
 The Perpendicular work in Norfolk is remarkable for the great height 
 and lightness of the main arcades ; for mucli unusual design (as in the 
 parapets at Cromer) ; and for the height and dignity of its towers, those 
 on the coast serving as sea-marks. 
 
 In the following list the most important churches are marked with 
 an asterisk. 
 
 Before the Conquest. — The churches which are possibly (in parts) of 
 this early date are, Framlingliam Pigot (Rte. 1); Howe (V\.tQ. 1, the 
 round tower only) ; Wilton (Rte. 3) ; * Dunham Magna (Rte. 7, the 
 tower) ; and >S'^. Andrew, Gt. Byhurgh (Rte. 8, W. tower). 
 
 Norman. — Tasburgh (Rte. 1, early); Frifton (Rte. 1, peculiar round 
 tower and Norm, apse) ; Framlingham Earl (Rte. 1, rich late work. 
 Framlingham Pigot is early Norm., if it be not earlier) ; "^Norwich 
 Cathedral (Rte. 1) ; Haddiscoe (Rte. 2, rich work, good doors, round 
 tower) ; * St. Nicholas, Yarmouth (Rte. 2, Trans. Norm, nave) ; 
 
 * Binham (Rte. 5, the old church of the Priory, very massive Norm., 
 fine); * Wymondham (Rte. 6, Norm, nave) ; "^^ East Bereham (Rte. 6, 
 portions) ; * &t. Margaret's, Lynn (Rte. 7, W. front, N. tower) ; 
 
 * Little Snoring (Rte. 8, curious); Castle Bising (Rte. 9, late Norm.) ; 
 
 * I'ihiey, All Saints (Rte. 10, some parts Trans. Norm., fine); "^ All 
 Saints, Walsoken (Rte. 10, parts) ; * West Walton (Rte. 10, S. porch) ; 
 Wimbotsharn (Hte. 11, parts); * Attlehorough (Rte. 12, central tower); 
 Quiddenham (Rte. 12, good S. door) ; Santon Downham (Rte. 12, 
 nave). 
 
 The finest Norman work remaining is that in Norwich Cathedral. 
 But the churches of St. Nicholas, Yarmouth, and Wymondham, are 
 well worth careful examination ; and all the churches in the above list 
 are interesting. In JS'orfolk, as in some other parts of England, there 
 must have been continuous and widespread church building for at 
 least a century after the conquest. 
 
 Early English. — Caister, St. Edmund's (Rte. 1, parts) ; St. MichaeVs, 
 Coslany, Norwich (Rte. 1, parts) ; * St. Nicholas, Yarmouth (Rte. 2, 
 chancel) ; Binham (Rte. 5, W. front, fine) ; * East Bereham (Rte. 6, 
 portions) ; Castle Acre (Rte. 7, portions) ; * Walsoken, All Saints 
 (Rte. 10, parts) ; * West Walton (Rte. 10, parts) ; Wimhotsham (Rte, 
 11, parts) ; Santon Boimham (Rte. 12, chancel) ; Northivold (Rte. 12, 
 parts). 
 
 Early English work is probably rarer in Norfolk than that of any 
 other period. 
 
xlvi Antiquities. Norfolk. 
 
 Decorated. — Diss (Rte. 1, parts) ; * St. Xicholas, Yarmouth (Ete. 2, 
 aisles); Winterton(Rte.2)', * Worstead (lite. S, tower; the rest of the 
 church is Trans. Dec. to Perp.) ; Tunstead (Rte. 3, late) ; Itujliam (Rte. 
 3, with fine effigies ; * Aylsliam (Rte. 4, main arcade) ; * Erpingham 
 (Rte. 4, late) ; * Hingliam (Rte. 6, late, fine tower) ; DeopJiam (Rte. 6, 
 nave); Great EUinr/ham (Rte. 6, late, and good); * Elsi/ig (Rte. 6, 
 late, fine brass) ; St. Margaret's, Lynn (Rte. 7, chancel, very fine 
 brasses); Fakenham (Rte. 8, portions); Old WaJsingham (Rte. 8, 
 late); * SnettisJiam (Rte. 9, late, W. front unusual); Hunstanton 
 (Rte. 9, early). 
 
 Decorated work throughout the county is for the most part late. It 
 thus marks the rise of the great prosperity of Norfolk which ranged 
 throughout the Perp. period. All the churches marked above with an 
 asterisk are unusually fine. 
 
 Perpendicular. — Diss (Rte. 1, parts) ; Norwich (Rte. 1) * Cathedral ; 
 
 * spire (early) ; * vaultings (late) ; * St. Peter's, Mancroft ; St. 
 Andrew's, Broad-st. ; St. Gregory's, St. Giles, St. John Baptist's, and 
 St. Michael's Coslany ; Winterton (Rte. 2, tower, fine) ; Martham 
 (Rte. 2) ; * North Walsham (Rte. 3) ; * Trunch (Rte. 3, fine roof, 
 curious baptistery); Knapton (Rte. 3, portions, * very fine Perp. roof); 
 Paston (Rte. 3, with Paston monuments); Oxnead (Rte. 4, with 
 Paston monuments) ; ''Aylsham (Rte. 4, tower and chancel) ; *Caivston 
 (Rte. 4), and "^ Salle (Rte. 4, both excellent examples of Norfolk Perp.); 
 
 * Cromer (Rte. 4, fine tower); Felhrigge (Rte. 4, a poor church, but 
 containing two very fine * brasses) ; Holt (Rte. 5); *Cley-next-the-Sea 
 
 ( Rte. 5) ; Wells (Rte. 5) ; Holhham (Rte. 5, almost rebuilt) ; Ketter- 
 ingliam (Rte. 6, some old glass, and monuments) ; * Wymondharn 
 (Rte. 6, aisles, central tower, and * fine W. tower); Shipdham (Rte. 
 6) ; * East Dereham (Rte. 6, part of nave, font, S. porch, " new " 
 tower) ; Swanston Morley (Rte. 6, good) ; Seaming (Rte. 7, parts) ; 
 
 * Sivaffham (Rte. 7); Castle Acre (Rte. 7, parts) ; Lynn * St. Nicholas 
 (Rte. 7, very fine) ; Lynn * Chapel of Bed Mount (Rte. 7, very curious 
 and interesting) ; Foulsham (Rte. 8) ; * Fahenham (Rte. 8) ; * New 
 Walsingham (Rte. 8), *Dersingharn (Rte. 9, early ; Lngoldisthorpe (Rte. 
 9, portions) ; * Terrington, St. Clemen fs (Rte. 10, very fine and 
 unusual); * Walpole, St. Peter's (Rte. 10, good woodwork, stained 
 glass); * Walpole, St. Andrew's (Rte. 10); *Walsol'en (Rte. 10, much 
 rich Perp. woodwork, fine Perp. font) ; * Attlehorough (Rte. 12, 
 early); East Harlina (Rte. 12); Quiddenham (Rte. 12, portions early 
 Perp). ; Thetford, St. Peter's (Rte. 12) ; * Northwold (Rte. 12, parts, 
 with fine I'erp. Easter sepulchre) ; * Mildenhcdl (in Suffolk, but 
 described, Rte. 12). 
 
 * ^S'^. Andrew's Hull, Norivich (Rte. 1), is the fine Perp. nave of the 
 church of the Dominicans. 
 
 The best screens in the Norfolk churches (all of Perp. or of late Dec. 
 character) are at Dicl-leborough (Rte. 1, fragment) ; Baniuorth (Rte. 
 2) ; North Walsham (Rte. 3, lower part) ; Worstead (Rte. 3, where is 
 also a western loft) ; Trnnch{PAe. 3, dated 1502); Edingthorpe(Y\tQ. 3, 
 
Introd., §§ 35, 36. Antiquities. xlvii 
 
 good Dec.) ; AyJsham (Rte. 4) ; Cawston (Rte. 4, with W. loft) ; Salle 
 (Rte. 4, parts : there is a W. loft); Fakenham (Rte. 8) ; AttUborough 
 (Pite. 12, removed to W. end of church); and Santou Downliam 
 (Rte. 12). 
 
 The best open roofs are at Worstead, Truncli, and Knapton (all Rte. 
 3); at Cawston and Salle (Rte. 4); and at Necton and Swaffham 
 (Rte. 7). 
 
 There are fine font covers at North Walsham and TruncJi (Rte. 3, the 
 latter very curious) ; at Salle (Rte. 4) ; at Castle Acre (Rte. 7) ; and at 
 Terrington, St. Clemenfs (Rte. 10, unusual). 
 
 Oi the fonts themselves, the best are at Aylsham (Rte. 4); at Cley 
 and Binham (V\.ie. 5); East Dereham (Rte. 6); WalsingJiam (Rte. 8); 
 Burnham Beepdale (Rte. 9, Norman, and curious); and All Saints, 
 WcdsoJcen (Rte. 10). 
 
 There are fine tombs, with effigies, in the churches of Ingham (Rte. 
 3) ; Stratton Strawless (Rte. 4), and Bingham (Rte. 6). In Tittleshall 
 church (Rte. 8) is the tomb, with effigy, of Chief Justice Coke. 
 
 Among the finest brasses in England are those in St. Margaret's 
 church, King's Lynn (Rte. 7). They are both of Flemish workmanship, 
 and should be compared with the large and fine brasses still remaining 
 in many churches at Ghent and Bruges. Other very fine brasses are at 
 Erpingham and Felbrigge (both Rte. 4) ; and at Elsing (Rte, 6). 
 
 § 35. Monastic remains. — The Benedictine Monastery at Norwich, 
 and the house of Augustinian canons at Walsingham, were the two 
 principal religious foundations in Norfolk. The church of the first was 
 the cathedral, which remains one of the most interesting Norman 
 structures in England. Walsingham (Rte. 8), a very famous place of 
 pilgrimage, possessed a fine church, which seems to have ranged from 
 E. Eng. to late Dec. Of this church there is a fine fragment of ruin 
 (the E. end). The refectory is more perfect ; and there is a Perp. gate- 
 way. The place, from its associations and actual remains, is one of 
 great interest. Next in importance are the remains at Binham (Rte. 
 5, Benedictine monks), and at Wymondharn (Rte. 6, Benedictines). 
 At both places portions of the conventual churches remain, and are 
 now parochial. There are traces also (for the most part foundations) 
 of the domestic buildings. At Bromliolm (Rte. 3, Cluniac monks) once 
 famous for its miraculous rood, are remains of the church, gatehouse, 
 and some other portions. At Thetford (Rte. 12, Cluniacs) are a good 
 Perp. gateway, and some fragments of the church. At Carrow (Rte. 
 1, Benedictine nuns), and at Beeston (Rte. 4, Augustinian canons), are 
 some remains, but of no great interest. 
 
 § 36. Military and Domestic. — There are three sites of ancient 
 castles in Norfolk of the highest importance. These are Norwich, 
 Castle Acre, and Castle Rising. The great Norman keep of Norwich 
 (Rte. 1) has undergone a painful restoration, but is still full of interest 
 for the antiquary. At Castle Acre (Rte. 7) the architectural remains 
 are slight, but the site and intrenchments will amply repay a visit. 
 Castle Bising (Rt«. 9) possesses one of the grandest Norman keeps in 
 
xlviii Geolofjy. Norfolk. 
 
 this country, happily unrestored, but properly cared for. Its position 
 is remarkable, as are the deep intrenchments within which it stands. 
 Caister Castle (Rte. 2) is a Perp. building, of brick, and picturesque. 
 There is a small square fortified building of the same date at Drayton 
 (Rte. 1). But scanty relics exist of the castle at New BucJcenJiam 
 (Pite. 12), but the site is interesting. 
 
 There are some fine old houses in Norfolk. The most important are : 
 — Heydon Hall (lUe. 4, Tudor) ; *BUckling (Pite. 4) Jacoba'an, of brick, 
 and a magnificent example. Melton Constahle (Etc. 5) dates from 
 1680. CressingJiam (Rte. 7) is of the 15th century. The house at 
 Oxhurgh (Rte. 7), although a part has been destroyed, is still a very 
 fine and interesting building, dating from the reign of Edward IV. 
 Great Ignoring Parsonage (Rte. 8) is Tudor, an excellent example of 
 moulded brick. Eainlmm (Rte. 8) is by Inigo Jones. Hunstanton 
 Hall (Rte. 9) dates chiefly from the end of the loth century. HolMiam 
 (Rte. 5) is Palladian, built by Kent, about 1744, The house at San- 
 dringham (Rte. 9) is entirely modern ; as is the imposing mansion of 
 Costessy (Rte. 1). 
 
 At Yarmouth, at Norwich, and at King's Lynn, there are some old 
 houses worth notice, though none of great antiquity. Mr. Aldred's 
 house on the South Quay at Yarviouth (Rte. 2) is Elizabethan, and 
 contains one fine room with an elaborately decorated ceiling. 
 
 § 37. The most important collections in the county, of pictures, 
 tbjects of art, and antiquities, are at Costessy (Rte. 1, pictures, &c.) ; 
 Langley Hall (Rte. 2, pictures; Bliclding (lite. 4); Felhrigge (Rte. 4, 
 a few good pictures); Melton Constahle (Rte. 5, pictiu-es, armour, 
 antiquities) ; * Holkharn (Rte. 5, pictures, statuet^, books, and MSS., 
 one of the largest collections in England); KetteringJiam (Rte. 6, 
 antiquities) ; Kimherley (Rte. 6, portraits and antiquities) ; Oxhurgh 
 (Rte. 7, portraits) ; * Narford (Rte. 7, a magnificent assemblage of 
 pictures, books, and china, the latter especially fine) ; Hougidon (Rte. 
 7, a few portraits, old tapestry, &c.) ; * Bainham (Rte. 8, a most inter- 
 esting collection of portraits; some pictures, including the famous 
 Belisarius of Salvator Rosa) ; Weeting Hall (Rte. 12, pictures). 
 
 The Museum at Norvnrh (Rte. 1) contains some interesting antiqui- 
 ties found in the county. 
 
 Geology. 
 
 § 38. Under this head the two counties may be noticed together. 
 
 To the geologist the most interesting deposits in Norlblk and Suffolk 
 are the shelly and sandy beds provincially termed " crag.'' They afibrd 
 " the least interrupted series of consecutive documents to which we can 
 refer in the British Islands, when we desire to connect the tertiary 
 
 with the post-tertiary periods The fossil shells of the deposits 
 
 in question clearly point to a gradual refrigeration of climate, from a 
 temperature somewhat warmer than that now prevailing in our latitudes 
 to one of intense cold , and the successive steps which have marked 
 
Introd., § 38. Geology. xlix 
 
 the coming on of the increasing cold, are matters of no small geo- 
 logical interest." — Lyell, 'Antiq. of Man,' p. 208. Besides the beds 
 of crag which contain the geological evidence thus referred to, the 
 central and N.-W. portions of both Suffolk and Norfolk, are districts 
 of chalk and chalk-marl, forming portions of the great chalk- band 
 which crosses England from the coast of Devonshire to that of 
 Yorkshire. 
 
 The " crag," or shelly and sandy' gravel of Norfolk and Suffolk, 
 has long been used in agriculture to fertilize soils deficient in cal- 
 careous matter, or to render them less stiff and impervious. " In 
 Suffolk, the older pliocene strata called crag, are divisible into the 
 Coralline, and the Bed crags, — the former being the older of the two. 
 In Norfolk, a more modern formation, commonly termed the Norwich, 
 or sometimes the mammaliferous crag, which is referable to the 
 newer pliocene period, occupies large areas." The pliocene or tertiary 
 beds, it must be remembered, stand immediately before the post- 
 tertiary ; the pliocene being divided into " older " and " newer." The 
 successive relation of the crag beds to each other is — Coralline (oldest). 
 Pied, and Norwich. Careful tables, showing the proportion of recent to 
 extinct species of marine testacea in each of these beds, will be found 
 in Lyell (' Antiq. of Man,' p. 209). "By far the greater number of 
 the living marine species included in these tables, are still inhabitants 
 of the British seas ; but even these differ considerably in their relative 
 abundance, some of the commonest of the crag shells being now 
 extremely scarce, .... and others, rarely met with in a fossil state, 
 being now very common." One of the tables throws light on a 
 marked alteration in the climate of the three successive periods. 
 " In the coralline crag there are twenty-seven southern shells, includ- 
 ing twenty-six Mediterranean, and one West Indian species (Erato 
 Maugerice). Of these, only thirteen occur in the red crag, associated 
 with three new southern species, while the whole of them disappear 
 from the Norwich beds. On the other hand, the coralline crag con- 
 tains only two shells closely related to arctic forms of the genera 
 Admete and Limopsis. The red crag contains eight northern species, 
 all of which recur in the Norwich crag, with the addition of four 
 others, also inhabitants of the arctic regions ; so that there is good 
 evidence of a continual refrigeration of climate during the pliocene 
 period in Britain The cold, which had gone on increas- 
 ing from the time of the coralline to that of the Norwich crag, con- 
 tinued, though not, perhaps, without some oscillations of temperature, 
 to become more and more severe after the accumulation of the Norwich 
 crag, until it reached its maximum in what has been called the Glacial 
 epoch. The marine fauna of this last period contains, both in Ireland 
 and Scotland, recent species of moUusca now living in Greenland, and 
 other seas far north of the areas where we find their remains in a fossil 
 
 state The most southern point to which the marine beds of 
 
 the Norwich crag have yet been traced, is at Chillesford, near Wood- 
 bridge, in Suffolk, .... where, as Messrs. Prestwich and Searles 
 [Essex, &c,'\ c 
 
1 Geology. Norf. & Suff. 
 
 Wood have pointed out, they exhibit decided marks of having been 
 deposited in a sea of much lower temperature than that now prevail- 
 ing in the same latitude. Out of twenty-three shells obtained in that 
 locality from argillaceous strata, twenty feet thick, two only .... 
 are extinct, and not a feAV of the other ipecies .... betray a northern 
 and some of them an arctic character." — LyeU. 
 
 The eastern portions of both Norfolk and Suffolk are covered with 
 sands and clays of the Eocene period, within and upon which lie beds 
 and basins of the more recent crag. The crag covers the wider surface- 
 area. 
 
 The succession and manner in which the newer pliocene (Norwich 
 crag) strata, and the post-pliocene (tertiary) rest upon the chalk, is 
 nowhere seen and studied with more advantage than at Cromer. The 
 cliffs vary in height from 50 ft. to above 300 ft. ; and from Weybourne 
 to Cromer, a distance of seven miles, the Norwich crag reposes imme- 
 diately on the chalk. A vast majority of its shells are of living 
 species, and some few extinct. East of Cromer, a remarkable forest- 
 bed (described in Norfolk, Ete. 4) rests on the chalk, occupying the 
 place held W. of the jetty by the Norwich crag. Above this forest- 
 bed and its conuected fluvio-marine series of deposits, is a mass of 
 boulder-clay, from 20 ft. to 80 ft. in thickness, of the glacial period, 
 and containing far-transported erratic blocks, some of them polished 
 and scratched. The forest-bed seems to have extended along the 
 Norfolk coast, and across the mouth of the Wash, to the coast of 
 Lincolnshire. It is found in the neighbourhood of Hunstanton 
 (Norfolk, Rte. 9). There may, however, be some doubt whether the 
 forest-bed, occasionally uncovered at that place by the tide, is of the 
 same age as that at Cromer. The age of the Cromer forest-bed, is, as 
 has been said, post-pliocene; and Sir Charles Lyell regards it as 
 belonging to a time when the whole of these islands were united to 
 the Continent (see Cromer, Rte. 4). The following is a list of 
 mammalia, the remains of which have been discovered in it : — 
 Elephas meridional is, E. primigenius, E. anfiquus, Rhinoceros etras- 
 cus, Hippopotamus (major ?), Siis scrofa, Eguus (fossil f), Ursus (sp. ?) 
 Canis Lupus, Bison priscus, Megaceros hibernicus, Cervus capreolus, 
 G. tarandus, C. Sedgiuickii, Arvicola amphibia, Castor Cuvieri, C. 
 Europoeus, Fakcosj)alax magnus, Trichecus rosmarus (walrus), Mano- 
 don monoceros (narwhal), Balcenoptera. 
 
 Between the period in which the Norwich crag was deposited, and 
 that of the growth of this ancient forest, some mammalia (such as 
 Mastodon arvernensis) seem to have died out. In the interval there 
 was, no doubt, time for other modifications. " We must suppose 
 repeated oscillations of level, during which, land covered with trees, 
 an estuary with its freshwater shells, and the sea with its Mya trun- 
 cata and other mollusca, still retaining their erect position, gained by 
 turns the ascendency. These changes were accompanied by some 
 denudation, followed by a grand submergence of several hundred feet, 
 probably brought about slowly, and when floating ice aided in trans- 
 porting erratic blocks from great distances." — LyeU. 
 
Introd., § 39. •Geohgy. li 
 
 At Mnndesley, on tlio coast S. of Cromer, is a remarkalDlc valley 
 sciioped out of the cliffs at a comparatively recent period, and filled 
 with newer freshwater strata. (See these described, Norfolk, Rte. 3.) 
 These deposits are post-glacial, and are of the same character as 
 those at Hoxne in Suffolk, one of the earliest places (if not quite 
 the earliest) at which flint implements of the Amiens type were 
 discovered. 
 
 Hoxne (see Suffolk, Etc. 9), lies in the valley of the Waveney ; and 
 the discovery of flint weapons there is duly recorded by Mr. Frere, in 
 the ' ArchaBologia,' for 1800. Specimens of the spearheads then sent 
 to London are preserved in the British Museum, and in the collection 
 of the Society of Antiquaries. The brick-pit in which they were 
 found is still worked. As at Mundcsley, a hollow has been ex- 
 cavated in the older formations, which are — chalk with flints (lowest), 
 then a bed of sand and gravel, and then the boulder clay or glacial 
 drift. The scooped hollow extends to the bottom of the boulder clay, 
 and is filled with peaty and clayey beds, and (above) with beds of 
 sand and gravel. All these beds contain freshwater shells and bones 
 of mammalia ; and in the upper beds of sand and gravel, the flint im- 
 plements are found. From the lower beds have been extracted bones 
 of elephant, deer, and horse, besides fragments of wood, of oak, yew, 
 and fir. " Although many of the old implements have recently been 
 discovered in situ in regular strata .... no bones of extinct mam- 
 malia seem as yet to have been actually seen in the same stratum 
 with one of the tools. The flint weapons," continues Sir Charles 
 Lyell, " which I have seen from Hoxne, are so much more perfect, 
 and have their cutting-edge so much sharper than those from the 
 valley of the Somme, that they seem neither to have been used 
 by man nor to have been rolled in the bed of a river. The opinion 
 of Mr. Frere, therefore, that there may have been a manufactory of 
 w^eapons on the spot, appears probable." — ' Antiq. of Man,' pp. 167-9. 
 
 At Icklingham, in the valley of the Lark, below Bury St. Edmund's, 
 there is a bed of gravel, in which teeth of Elephas primigeiiius, and 
 several flint tools, chiefly of a lance-head form, have been found. 
 
 The marshy district of the Norfolk Broads — very curious and in- 
 teresting — belongs to the latest post-tertiary period, and is fully 
 described in NoRFOTiK, Rte. 2. 
 
 Traveller's View. 
 
 § 39. "What has been said of the general character of Essex, may 
 almost be repeated with regard to Norfolk and Suffolk. Both con- 
 tain much pleasant country, — and the N. coast of Norfolk (in the 
 neighbourhood of Cromer) is very ])icturesque ; but the scenery of 
 East Anglia is not to be ranked with that of the bolder and more 
 varied English counties. It has, nevertheless, its own distinctive 
 charm and character. Its softer features are reflected very faithfully 
 in many of Constable's best pictures. Some of Gainsborough's land- 
 
 c 2 
 
Hi Traveller's View. Xorf. & Suff. 
 
 scapes show ns the wooded banks of the Orwell, and the deep lanes 
 near it ; and parts of the coast liave been found worth careful study 
 by such artists as Turner and Collins. 
 
 The most striking districts, and those most generally interesting in 
 the two counties, are — in Suffolk — the banks of the Orwell (Rte. 1)^ 
 well worth visiting by all who care for fine combinations of woodland 
 and marine scenery ; the valley of the Stour, especially about Dedham 
 (lite. 1), Constable's country, which he loved to paint ; and the neigh- 
 bourhood of Bury St. Edmund's (Rte. 3). In Norfolk, the most attrac- 
 iive districts are — Cromer and its neighbourhood (Rte. 4), — where the 
 ^oast scenery is by far the best on this side of England, south of the 
 Yorkshire cliffs ; the very curious Broad country (Rte. 2) ; and some 
 of the country round Norwich. Except at Cromer, the coast of the 
 two countries is flat and unpicturesque. But there is a grand open 
 sea — in itself sufficient to recommend such watering-places as Yar- 
 mouth and Lowestoft, besides the many smaller ones (Aldborough, 
 Southwold, Mundesley), which occur at intervals. 
 
 The towns in the two counties — Ipswich, Bury St. Edmund's, Nor- 
 wich, Yarmouth, King's Lynn — all offer points of high interest, duly 
 noticed in the several routes. Over them, and indeed over the whole 
 of East Anglia, there rests a special air of antiquity, rendering the 
 country one of the highest interest to the archaeologist. The churches- 
 already noticed, are such as can be equalled in few parts of England. 
 The military antiquities are hardly less important, though of course 
 less numerous ; and historical sites and associations are frequent. 
 The naturalist will find much to attract and occupy him in the peculiar 
 geological formations, — the " crag " of Norfolk and Suffolk, — as well as 
 in the fields of ornithology and botany, Norfolk, it need hardly be said, 
 is the paradise of sportsmen. In no other part of England are the pre- 
 serves so extensive, so well stocked, or so well cared for. 
 
 The Norfolk fowl-farms, — whence comes the vast supply of turkeys- 
 and other poultry that travels to London at Christmas time — are 
 famous. They are scattered over the county ; but some of the 
 largest are in the negihbourhood of Norwich. A visit to a large fowl- 
 farm is hardly to be recommended. The odour of yards and fields 
 inhabited by enormous flocks of geese and of turkeys is not so aromatic- 
 as that which salutes us when the bird itself "smokes upon the- 
 board." 
 
Introd., § 40. Extent and General CJiaracter. liii 
 
 III. 
 CAMBKIDGESHIKE. 
 
 Extent and General Chakac 
 
 TER liii 
 
 History liv 
 
 Page Page 
 
 Antiquities Ixiv 
 
 Geology Ixviii 
 
 Tkamsller's View Ixxii 
 
 Extent and General Character. 
 
 § 40. Cambridgeshire is one of tlie smaller English counties. Its 
 greatest length is about 45 miles ; its greatest breadth about 30 miles. 
 
 The face of the country is in reality much varied ; but the hills 
 and rising grounds are nowhere of great importance ; and the fens, 
 forming part of the Great Bedford Level, which cover the northern part 
 of the county, are so striking and extensive, that the general impres- 
 sion of Cambridgeshire is that of a complete level. The southern 
 border of Cambridgeshire is chalk, with low hills. The Gogmagog 
 Hills, the highest in the county (though elsewdiere they would hardly 
 "be more than "rising ground"), are in this chalk district. Elm-trees 
 grow to some size in the valleys. The west of the county, and some 
 part of the centre, is covered by the beds of greensand and gault, 
 which everywhere form the northern border of the chalk. There is 
 some very rich soil on this formation, esj^ecially about Wimpole, where 
 there is much wood. 
 
 The Isle of Ely formed anciently a distinct enclosure within the 
 €Ounty. It was, in effect, though not in name, a County Palatine, 
 subject to the exclusive jurisdiction of the Bishop of Ely, who ruled 
 within its bounds almost as authoritatively as the Bishop of Durham 
 governed his " Bishoprick." Except the County Palatine of Chester, 
 these Avere the only separate and exclusive jurisdictions in England. 
 The temporal jurisdiction of the bishops of Ely continued until 1837. 
 
 " The tables of this county," says Fuller, " are as well furnished 
 as any ; the south part aftbrding bread and beer, and the north (the 
 Isle of Ely) meat thereunto. So good is the grain growing here, that 
 it outselleth others some jDence in the bushel." A certain part of the 
 county, near the S.-W. border, was formerly known as "the Dairies." 
 Large dairy farms are still to be found there ; but at present the chief 
 dairy district of Cambridgeshire is the country between Cambridge 
 and Ely, especially in and round the parish of Cottenham. Much 
 cheese is made there, some of which is quite equal to Stilton. 
 
 Cambridgeshire is still, as in Fuller's days, rich in grain ; with the 
 difference that, since the draining of the fens, its wealth in that 
 respect has increased tenfold. It is now one of the chief corn pro- 
 ducins; counties. 
 
Ifv History. Cambridge, 
 
 The drainage of tlic fens, and the great successive changes in that 
 district,, belong to the History of Cambridgeshire. The character of 
 the fens, and the course and changes of the rivers, will be more fully 
 described under the same head. 
 
 HiSTOUY. 
 
 § 4i. It is probable that what is now Cambridgeshire formed part 
 of the country of the Iceni ; or, at any rate, that it constituted their 
 march or border land. The great dykes which covered the tract of 
 open land extending between the fens and the forests of Essex (see 
 posfy ' Antiquities ') may have been their work, although they may 
 have been appropriated and strengthened by Anglian conquerors. The 
 Piomans intersected the country with good roads, and established one 
 important station within it — Camboritum, which in all probability is 
 represented by Cambridge, — although there was an important Roman 
 camp at Granchester, not very far distant (see pos^, ' Antiquities ')» 
 Little is recorded of this county during the Roman period. It is 
 certain, how^ever, that those masters of road-making and embanking 
 undertook and carried through great works on the northern border of 
 the fens, extending through the Norfolk marshland (see post). 
 
 After the Anglians had established themselves in Norfolk and 
 Suffolk, Cambridgeshire, then known as the country of the fenmen, — 
 (called Gyrvii by Bede, ' H. E.' iii. 20 ; iv. 19,— the wwd is the A.-S. 
 gyrive = d. fen), became a principality dependent on the East Anglian 
 kingdom. There were probably, indeed, tw^o such principalities, as in. 
 the case of Norfolk and Suffolk, — since Bede describes Tonberht as 
 prince of the " southern " Gyrvians. Tonberht was the first husband 
 of ^Etheldrythe, or Etheldreda, — the great saint of Ely, whose history 
 is given at length in Rte. 3. The connection of Etheldreda with Ely 
 w'as the first event the results of which w^ere afterwards to give 
 prominence to Cambridgeshire ; the second was the foundation of the 
 University of Cambridge. If to these we add the drainage and culti- 
 vation of the fens, we have the three centres round which all the 
 history of the county really gathers. 
 
 The actual foundation of St. Etheldreda was destroyed in that great 
 Danish irruption wdiich took place in the year 870, wdien St. Edmund 
 of East Anglia was murdered, and afterwards took his place as a 
 national saint of at least equal dignity and importance with St. Ethel- 
 dreda, and when other great monasteries of the fens — Thorney and 
 Crowland — and the lesser house at Soham (see Rte. 3) were also 
 destroyed. Cambridgeshire was included in the Danelagh, though 
 how far it was colonised by Northmen, is most uncertain. At any 
 rate, in the battle of Ringmere, 1010 (see Suffolk, Rte. 1), when 
 the force of East Anglia, under Ulfcytel, in vain attempted to make 
 stand against the Danes, the English army gave way and fled, save 
 only the men of Cambridgeshire, who fought valiantly to the last. 
 According to Henry of Huntingd.on, the memory of their valour was 
 
Introd., § 41. History, Iv 
 
 preserved until the Conquest. (" Dum Angli regnaverunt, laus Grante- 
 bridgiensis provincia3 splendide floruit," — H. H., p. 207). Cambridge, 
 after this battle, was burnt by the Danes ; and it was during their 
 advance thence southward, that Balsham (Ete. 9), is said to have 
 suffered so greatly. 
 
 The great event in Cambridgeshire, during the period of the Con- 
 quest, is the siege and capture of the Isle of Ely, — the " Camp of 
 Eefuge," which had received so many broken and desperate English- 
 men. The story, so far as it is necessary to give it, will be found in 
 lUe. S. Much of the detail, and especially what is recorded of the 
 famous Here ward, is of very doubtful authenticity; and even the 
 statements in the ' Liber Eliensis,' — the chronicle of the Ely monastery 
 — must be received with caution. (The greater part of this chronicle 
 will be found in Wharton's ' Anglia Sacra,' vol. i. A portion of it — - 
 much more complete and accurate than Wharton's edition — was edited 
 by the Eev. D. J. Stewart, for the Society called " Anglia Christiana," 
 in 1848. Unfortunately only one volume was printed). 
 
 There was some fighting in and round the Isle of Ely during the 
 troubled reign of Stephen. The place was a strong natural fortress ; 
 and its possession was of importance to either side. During these 
 struggles, Geoffry de Mandeville, Earl of Essex, was killed by an arrow 
 before Burwell Castle (a.d. 1144. See Ete. 2). Ely was again 
 ravaged during the war between King John and his barons ; and 
 suffered again during the " Barons' War " of Henry III.'s reign. In 
 1216, in King John's days, the great monastery was plundered, and 
 the monks carried off, and obliged to pay considerable ransom. Cam- 
 bridge, and the whole of Cambridgeshire, suffered much from both 
 sides ; and the Isle of Ely w^as more than once taken and retaken. 
 Under Henry III., Ely was taken possession of by the Barons, — and 
 again made a place of defence, whence foraging parties were sent out, 
 who plundered the surrounding country, — at one time attacking 
 Cambridge itself. The isle was then (a.d. 12 G8), blockaded by the 
 king and Prince Edward, and was taken with little, if any, opposition. 
 Among the barons who surrendered, was the Lord Wake — who claimed 
 to be a lineal descendant of Hereward, the great hero in the defence 
 of the isle against the Conqueror. * 
 
 These are the chief historical events connected with the Isle of Ely ; 
 but the importance of the 2:)lace, and the conspicuous position which 
 it held in England down to the middle of the 16th century, were due 
 almost entirely to the shrines of St. Etheldreda and her sisters, which 
 formed the glory of the magnificent church, and which attracted to it 
 crowds of pilgrims from all parts of the country. This has been duly 
 noticed in the description of Ely (Ete. 3). The old fame of Hereward, 
 and the defence of the isle, were not forgotten there ; and the power 
 of the bishoj^ exceeded that of most other English prelates ; but it 
 was St. Etheldreda who, in truth, presided over Ely, and gave the 
 place its great dignity and reputation ; just as St. Edmund ruled the 
 neighbouring portion of Suffolk. The two saints did much for their 
 
Ivi History. Cambridge. 
 
 respective counties. Besides building noble churches and monas- 
 teries, they (or their representatives) were the great patrons of road- 
 making (Rte. 3, Soham)^ and of agriculture ; and it is probable that 
 few parts of England were in better condition, or better cared for, than 
 the monastic domains which surrounded Ely and Bury St. Edmund's. 
 
 The rise of the Univ^ersity of Cambridge is fully described in 
 Ete. 1. It, of course, gave a prominence to the " Provincia Grante- 
 brigiensis," which it had not before ; and which bas gone on steadily 
 increasing, added to rather than diminished, by the great religious 
 change of the 16th century. 
 
 During the civil war of the succeeding age, Cambridgeshire suffered 
 little. Like Suffolk and Norfolk, it was one of the associated counties 
 in which the king, according to Clarendon, " had not any visible 
 party, nor one fixed quarter." This does not apply, however, to the 
 University ; which was, for the most part, loyal, and which contri- 
 buted large supplies of money and plate to the royal cause. Cromwell 
 took possession of Cambridge for the Parliament in 1643 ; and the 
 Earl of Manchester, who was sent down to visit the University, ex- 
 pelled a great nimiber of royalists. Cromwell was himself closely 
 connected with Cambridgeshire. He possessed a considerable estate 
 in the Isle of Ely, which had descended to him from his uncle. Sir 
 Thomas Steward. This estate was held under the church of EI3', and 
 consisted of the rectory of Ely, called the " Sectary," and of the 
 tithes of the parishes of Holy Trinity and St. Mary. Cromwell, on 
 the death of his uncle, in 1636, took possession of the rectory-house, 
 and made it his constant residence, till he was chosen one of the 
 members for Cambridge in the Parliament of 1640. (This house still 
 exists, and is now the " Cromwell Inn," Pite. 3). Cromwell after- 
 wards became Governor of Ely ; and in January, 164|, made, says 
 Carlyle, " a transient appearance in the cathedral one day, memorable 
 to the Pieverend Mr. Hitch and to us." He had already written to 
 Mr. Hitch, requiring him " to forbear altogether the choir service, so 
 unedifying and offensive, lest the soldiers should in any tumultuary 
 or disorderly way, attempt the reformation of the cathedral church." 
 Mr. Hitch paid no attention, and Cromwell accordingly appeared in 
 time of service, *' with a rabble at his heels, and with his hat on," 
 and ordered the "assembly" to leave the cathedral. Mr. Hitch 
 jtaused for a moment, but soon recommenced ; when " Leave off your 
 fooling and come down, sir!" said Oliver, in a voice still audible to 
 this editor ; which Mr. Hitch, did now instantaneously give his ear 
 tor—CarlyUs ' Cromwell,' vol. 1. p. 145, ed. 1857. 
 
 Henry Cromwell, son of the Protector, lived for some time, and 
 died (1673), at Spinney Priory, near Ely. (See Ete. 3.) 
 
 King Charles himself, after his seizure at Holdenby by Cornet 
 Joyce, was brought first to Childerley, near Cambridge (Rte. 7); and 
 was conveyed thence to NeA\miarket (Etc. 2), and afterwards to 
 Eoyston (Ete. 6), where he had removed from Hampton Court before 
 setting up his standard. During this time, the Parliamentary army, 
 
Introd., § 42. History. Ivii 
 
 under Fairfax and Cromwell, had their headquarters at Kennet, near 
 Newmarket ; and held a general rendezvous on Triplow Heath, where 
 they lay for some time ; and another near Eoyston, 
 
 § 42. The drainage of the fens ranks among the most interesting and 
 important engineering operations ever undertaken in this country. 
 The work has proceeded at different times. A brief account of it is 
 all that can be given here. Those who desire a fuller history, may 
 have recourse to Dugdale's ' History of Imbanking and Draining,' and 
 to Smile s's ' Lives of the Engineers,' vol. i., where much curious 
 information will be found. 
 
 The fen country of Cambridgeshire, forming all the northern portion 
 of the county, is a part of a low-lying tract, situated at the junction of 
 the^ counties of Lincoln, Huntingdon, Cambridge, and Norfolk, com- 
 monly known as the Great Level of the Fens. " The area of this 
 district presents almost the dimensions of a province, being from 60 
 to 70 miles from N. to S., and from 20 to 30 miles broad, the high 
 lands of the interior bounding it somewhat in the form of a horseshoe. 
 It contains about 680,000 acres of the richest land in England, and is 
 as much the product of art as the kingdom of Holland, opposite to 
 which it lies. It has been reclaimed and drained by the labour of 
 successive generations of engineers ; and it is only preserved for pur- 
 poses of human habitation and culture by continuous watchfulness 
 from day to day. 
 
 " Not many centm'ies ago, this vast tract of about 2000 square 
 miles of land was entirely abandoned to the waters, forming an im- 
 mense estuary of the Wash, into which the rivers Witham, Welland, 
 Glen, Nene, and Ouse discharged the rainfall of the central counties 
 of England. It was an inland sea in winter, and a noxious swamp in 
 summer, the waters expanding in many places into settled seas or 
 meres, swarming with fish, and screaming with wild-fowl. The more 
 elevated parts were overgrown with tall reeds, which appeared at a 
 distance like fields of waving corn ; and they were haunted by im- 
 mense flocks of starlings, which, when disturbed, would rise in such 
 numbers as almost to darken the air. Into this great dismal swamp 
 the floods descending from the interior were carried, their waters 
 mingling and winding by many devious channels before they reached 
 the sea. They were laden with silt, which became deposited in the 
 basin of the fens. Thus the river-beds were from time to time 
 choked up, and the intercepted waters forced new channels through 
 the ooze, meandering across the level, and often winding back upon 
 themselves, until at length the surplus waters, through many openings, 
 drained away into the Wash. Hence the numerous abandoned beds of 
 old rivers still traceable amidst the Great Level of the Fens — the old 
 Nene, the old Ouse, and the old Welland. The Ouse, which in past 
 times flowed into the Wash at Wisbeach (or Ouse Beach), now enters 
 at King's Lynn, near which there is another old Ouse. But the pro- 
 bability is, that all the rivers flowed into a lake, which existed on the 
 tract known as the Great Bedford Level, from thence finding their 
 
 c 3 
 
Iviii History. Cambridge. 
 
 way, by numerous and frequently shifting channels, into the sea." — 
 Smiles. 
 
 The part of the Great Fen Level first reclaimed was that which 
 lay on either shore of the Wash, and is now known as " Marshland " 
 in Norfolk, and " South Holland " in Lincolnshire. (For the Marsh- 
 land, see Norfolk, JUe. 10.) This reclamation was the work of the 
 Romans, who employed British bondmen in the labour. The " Carr 
 dyke," a great drain extending from the Nene to the Witham, is also 
 supposed to be a Eoman work. They laid down, too, causcAvays 
 across the fens, — one of which extends from Denver, in Norfolk, over 
 the Great Wash, to Charke ; and thence to IMarsh and Peterborongh — 
 a distance of nearly 30 miles. These earlier works, however, along 
 the coast, seem to have increased the inundations of the low-lying 
 lands of the level. " Whilst they dammed the salt water out, they 
 also held back the fresh, no provision having been made for improving 
 and deepening the outfalls of the rivers flowing through the Level 
 into the Wash. The Fenlands in Avinter were thus not only flooded 
 by the rainfall of the fens themselves, and by the upland waters 
 which flowed from the interior, but also by the daily flux of the 
 tides which drove in from the German Ocean, holding back the fresh 
 waters, and even mixing with them far inland," 
 
 It was while the Fen country was in this condition, that the most 
 important of the " islands," or more elevated ground rising above them, 
 — which were completely surrounded by water throughout the winter, — 
 were taken possession of either by the founders of monastic houses or 
 by religious solitaries, whose cells afterwards became the germs from 
 which convents were developed. The most famous of these were Ely, 
 Crowland, Eamsey, Thorney, Sawtrey, and Spinney. Peterborough 
 was also a " fen " convent. The isolation of these patches of dry land, 
 and their comparative safety, attracted the monks and hermits who 
 first settled on them; and by whose care and labour they were 
 gradually cultivated and made productive. The ancient order and 
 beauty of Thorney are duly described by William of Malmesbury (see 
 Etc. 4) ; and the varied riches of Ely — its corn and pasture fields, its 
 flocks and herds, its woods and vineyards, its w^aters abounding in all 
 kinds of flsh, its wild animals, and the myriads of wild-fowl that 
 haunted it — are set forth at length by the chronicler of the abbey 
 (' Liber Eliensis,' L. ii. c. 105). All this cultivation was the work of 
 the monks; and they not only repaired and used the Eoman causeways 
 leading through the fens, but constructed many new ones. Such a 
 causeway was made to their house by the monks of Eamsey ; Egelric, 
 a monk of Peterborough, made another between Deeping and Spalding ; 
 and the construction of the causeway from Ely to Soliam is men- 
 tioned in Rte. 3. The "King's Delph" (del/, A.-S.=:a digging), 
 running from Whittlesea to Peterborough, is said, traditionally, to 
 have been the work of Cnut ; and Richard de Eulos, Lord of Bourne 
 and Deeping, unde^^took the reclamation of what are now the rich 
 lands of Market Deeping, — and succeeded. But by far the greater 
 
Introd., § 42. History. lix 
 
 part of the earlier -works were due eitlier to the fen monasteries or to 
 the bishops of Ely. The drainage of the North Level was undertaken 
 by Bishop Morton, in the reign of Henry YII. He dug a canal from 
 Peterborough to Guyhirne, and thence by Wisbeach to the sea, — 
 a distance of 40 miles. The object of " Morton's Leam," as this canal 
 is still called, was to carry off the overflowings of the river Nene. 
 Much was effected in this manner ; but the dissolution of the monas- 
 teries was followed by the neglect of all these works. Great "drown- 
 ings " of the fens constantly occurred ; and James I. is said to have 
 declared, that " for the honour of his kingdom .... if no one else 
 would undertake their drainage, he himself would do so." 
 
 The condition of the fens at this time has been described as follows : 
 — " In winter, a sea without waves ; in summer, a dreary mud swamp. 
 The atmosphere was heavy with pestilential vapours, and swarmed 
 with insects. The meres and pools were, however, rich in fish and 
 wild-fowl. The Welland was noted for sticklebacks .... pikes were 
 plentiful near Lincoln ; hence the proverb, ' Witham pike, England 
 hath none like.' .... The birds proper were of all kinds ; wild 
 geese, herons, teal, widgeons, mallards, grebes, coots, godwhits, whim- 
 brels, knots, dottrels, yelpers, ruffs, and reeves, — many of which have 
 long since been banished from England. Mallards were so plentiful 
 that 3000 of them, wdth other birds in addition, have been known to be 
 taken at one draught. Round the borders of the fens there lived a 
 thin and haggard population of ' Fen-slodgers,' called ' yellow 
 bellies ' in other districts, who derived a precarious subsistence from 
 fowling and fishing. They w^ere described by writers of the time as 
 ' a rude and almost barbarous sort of lazy and beggarly people.' 
 Disease alwaj^s hung over the district, ready to pounce upon the half- 
 starved fenmen. Camden spoke of the country between Lincoln and 
 Cambridge as ' a vast morass, inhabited by fen-men, a kind of peoj)le, 
 according to the nature of the place where they dwell, who, walking 
 high upon stilts, apply their minds to grazing, fishing, or fowling.' 
 The proverb of * Cambridgeshire camels ' doubtless originated in this 
 old practice of stilt- walking in the fens ; the fenmen, like the inhabi- 
 tants of the Landes, mounting upon high stilts to spy out their flocks 
 across the dead level. But the flocks of the fenmen' consisted prin- 
 cipally of geese, which were called ' the fenmen's treasure ; ' the 
 ' fenman's dowry ' being ' three score geese and pelt,' or sheepskin 
 used as an outer garment. The geese throve where nothing else could 
 exist, being equally proof against rheumatism and ague, though 
 lodging with the natives in their sleeping-places. Even of this poor 
 property, however, the slodgers were liable at any time to be stripped 
 by sudden inundations. 
 
 " In the oldest reclaimed district of Holland (Lincolnshire), contain- 
 ing many old village churches, the inhabitants, in wet seasons, were 
 under the necessity of rowing to church in their boats. In the other 
 less reclaimed parts of the fens the inhabitants were much worse off. 
 ' In the winter time,' said Dugdale, ' when tjie ice is only strong 
 
Ix History, Cambeidge. 
 
 enongli to liinder the passage of boats, and yet not able to bear a man, 
 the inhabitants upon the hards and banks within the fens can have 
 no help of food, nor comfort for body or soul ; no woman aid in her 
 travail, no means to baptize a child or jiartake of the Communion, nor 
 supply of any necessity saving what these poor desolate places do 
 afford. And what expectation of health can there be to the bodies of 
 men where there is no element good ? The air being for the most 
 part cloudy, gross, and full of rotten harrs ; the water putrid and 
 muddy, yea, full of loathsome vermin ; the earth spongy and boggy, 
 and the fire noisome by the stink of smoaky hassocks.' " — Smiles. 
 When the Ouse overflowed, the alarm spread that the " Bailifi" of 
 Bedford " was coming ; and when a man was striken with ague, he was 
 said to be arrested by the " Bailiff of Marshland." 
 
 Such was the condition of the fens when Sir Cornelius Yermuyden, 
 a Dutch engineer of great eminence, first began his operations in 
 Cambridgeshire. He had come to England in 1621, and had been 
 employed in various undertakings patronised by James I, — among the 
 rest, in the reclamation of Canvey Island, in the Thames, and of 
 Sedgemoor. He had already undertaken and carried out the drainage 
 of Hatfield Chase, in Yorkshire, and had been knighted by Charles I. in 
 1629. He had himself secured an interest in a considerable portion of 
 the reclaimed land in Hatfield ; but had parted with it, owing to the 
 ill-will of the natives, and their constant riots. In 1629, the " Com- 
 missioners of Sewers " of Norfolk, met at King's Lynn, and proposed 
 to Vermuyden the undertaking of the drainage of the Level. Their 
 proposals were accepted, but were not carried out ; but Francis, Earl 
 of Bedford, owner of the fenlands formerly belonging to Thorney 
 Abbey, then undertook, with the help of other landowners, the pro- 
 posed work ; and employed Vermuyden to effect it. Many im- 
 portant works were then executed ; the principal being what is now- 
 known as Old Bedford Eiver, extending from Earith, on the Ouse, to 
 Salter's Lode on the same river. (This cut was 70 feet wide and 
 20 miles long, and its object was, " to relieve and take off the high floods 
 of the Ouse "). The fenmen, however, as they had done in Yorkshire, 
 greatly opposed the work, declaring that the fens were their commons, 
 that they furnished them with food, and that the draining of them 
 would destroy all their resources. Vermuyden was employing skilled 
 Flemish labourers, and these " foreigners " provoked especial indigna- 
 tion. Many works were in progress, when the troubles of the time 
 came to a height. It was represented that the object of draining the 
 fens was to enable the king to fill his exchequer without his subjects' 
 aid ; and Oliver Cromwell, then member for Cambridge, and living 
 at Ely, put himself at the head of the opposition, and succeeded in 
 stopping all the operations. In 1641, the Earl of Bedford made appli- 
 cation to the Long Parliament for permission to re-enter on the work ; 
 but the Civil War rendered this impossible, and the earl soon after died. 
 In the following year Vermuyden published a * Discourse touching 
 the drayning of the great Fennes,' pointing out the works which 
 
Introd., § 42. History. Ixi 
 
 remained to be executed, in order eifectiially to reclaim the 400,000 
 acres of land capable of growing corn, which formed the area of the 
 Great Level. Much discussion went on for some years ; and, in 1649, 
 Authority was given to William, Earl of Bedford, son of the earl who 
 had begun the works, to continue and complete them. Vennuyden 
 was again chosen to direct the drainage, and again employed his 
 Dutch labourers. 1000 Scottish prisoners, taken at Dunbar, were also 
 pressed into his service, besides 500 prisoners taken in Blake's fight 
 with Van Tromp in 1652. The works now executed were numerous. 
 Among them were the New Bedford River, from Earith, on the Ouse, 
 to Salter's Lode on the same river, reducing its course between these 
 points, from 40 to 20 miles ; this new river was 100 feet l)road, and 
 ran nearly parallel with the Old Bedford Eiver. (See ante.) " A high 
 bank was raised along the S. side of the new cut, and an equally high 
 bank along the N. side of the old river ; a large space of land, of about 
 5000 acres being left betw^een them, for the floods to ' bed ' in, as 
 Yermuyden termed it. The rivers Welland and Nene were defended 
 by broad and lofty banks ; and the Ouse was restrained in like manner 
 between Over and Earith. Vermuyderi's Eau, or the Forty Feet 
 Drain, from Welch's dam to the Nene, near Eamsey Mere, was also 
 cut at this time ; and Denver sluice was erected. In the South Level, 
 >S"^. Johrts or Downham Eau, was cut, — 120 feet wide, and 10 feet 
 deep, from Denver Sluice to Stow Bridge on the Ouse, This cut is 
 now known as the 'the Poker. (Marshland cut, in the shape of a 
 pair of tongs, is commonly called ' Tongs Drain.') The works were 
 declared complete in March, 1652. They were surveyed by the Lords 
 Commissioners of Adjudication ; and at Ely Sir Cornelius Vermuyden 
 read a ' discourse,' setting forth his design, and the way in which it had 
 been carried out. He dwelt on the 40,000 acres now growing corn, 
 and supporting sheep and cattle, which hitherto had been waste ; and 
 concluded — ' I presume to say no more of the work, lest I should be 
 accounted vain-glorious; although I might truly afi&rm that the 
 present or former age have done nothing like it for the general good 
 of the nation. I humbly desire that God may have the glory, for his 
 blessing and bringing to perfection my poor endeavours, at the vast 
 charge of the Earl of Bedford and his participants.' A public 
 thanksgiving took place in Ely Cathedral ; when Hugh Peters, Crom- 
 well's famous chaplain, preached a sermon. Vermuyden does not 
 seem to have enriched himself by his work. He disappears at this 
 time from public sight, and it is said, that he died abroad, poor and 
 friendless." 
 
 The fens were thus greatly improved, and much rich and valuable 
 land was reclaimed. But the drainage was, as yet, by no means com- 
 plete. The rivers still overflowed occasionally; and during the last 
 century, various engineers were employed at difierent times in cor- 
 recting the defects of the early works, and in carrying out further 
 improvements. Early in the present century (in 1810), the great 
 engineer Eennie, who had already drained the Lincolnshire fens, was 
 
Ixii History. Cambridge.. 
 
 consulted as to the better draiiiage of tlie Great Level. He found 
 '* that much good land, which had been formerly productive, had be- 
 come greatly deteriorated, or altogether lost for purposes of agriculture. 
 Some districts were constantly flooded, and others were so wet that 
 they were rapidly returning to their original state of reeds and sedge. 
 In the neighbourhood of Downham Eau, the harvestmen were, in 
 certain seasons, obliged to stand upon a platform to reap their corn, 
 which was carried to and from the drier parts in boats ; and some of 
 the farmers, in like manner, rowed through their orchards in order to 
 gather the fruit from the trees. A large portion of Littleport Fen, in 
 the South Level, was let at one shilling an acre, and in the summer 
 time stock were turned in amongst the reed and ' turf-bass,' and not 
 seen for days together. In Marshland Fen, the soil w^as so soft that 
 wooden shoes, or fiat boards, were nailed on the horses' feet, over their 
 iron ones, to prevent them from sinking into the soil." — Smiles^ 
 Rennie proposed a great system of drainage ; but the only part carried 
 out in his time was the Eau Brinh Cut, which secured a more 
 effectual outfall of the Ouse into the Wash, near King's Lynn. Im- 
 mediately al)ove Lynn, the old river made a bend of about five miles 
 in extent, to a point called German's Bridge. The channel was of very 
 irregular breadth, and full of great sand-beds, constantly shifting, 
 which obstructed the river during floods, and caused serious inunda- 
 tions. Rennie made a direct new channel from Eau Brink, near 
 German's Bridge, nearly to the town of Lynn. The cut was about 
 three miles long ; and its immediate effect was to give great relief ta 
 the whole district watered by the Ouse. 
 
 The drainage of the North Level was greatly improved by Telford, 
 who, partly carrying out Rennie's plans, cut a new outfall for the 
 river Nene, carrying the works far through the sandbanks into the 
 deep waters of the Wash. Many new cuts and embankments were 
 also made by him, and a thorough natural drainage was secured for 
 the whole district. It was a remarkable eff"ect of the opening of the 
 new outfall, " that in a few hours the lowering of the waters was felt 
 throughout the whole of the fen level. The sluggish and stagnant 
 drains, cuts, and leams, in far distant places, began actually to flow ; 
 and the sensation created was such, that at Thorn cy, some 15 miles 
 from the sea, the intelligence penetrated even to the congregation at 
 church — for it w^as Sunday morning — that the ' waters were running,* 
 when immediately the wdiole flock turned out, parson and all, to see 
 the great sight, and to acknowledge the blessings of science." — Smiles. 
 
 Great improvements of all kinds went steadily on from the be- 
 giiming of the century. Dykes, causeways, sluices, and drains were 
 raised and cut in various directions. Mills were set to work for 
 pumping out the water from the low grounds, — at first windmills, 
 and then powerful steam-engines. " In short, in no part of the w-orld, 
 except in Holland, have more industry and skill been displayed in 
 reclaiming and preserving the soil, than in Lincolnshire and the- 
 
Introcl., § 42. History. 1 
 
 Xlll 
 
 districts of the Great Bedford Level." The last great work under- 
 taken was the drainage of Whittlesea Mere (Ete. 4). 
 
 A curious notice of the fen country, near Cambridge, as it was in 
 1821, is preserved in the 'Autobiographic Piecollections ' of the late 
 Professor Pryme. (London, 1870.) He says — 
 
 " At the first board meeting after I was elected a Conservator (of 
 the Bedford Level Corporation), we made a voyage by the river Ouse, 
 from Ely to Littleport. It was ten miles in length, whereas the road 
 by laud was only five miles. The tract through which we passed, 
 called the Padnals, was one swamp, on which there was no building 
 except two cottages, for the foundation of which earth had been 
 carried thither by boats ; and the inhabitants of them gained their 
 livelihood, as many others did at that time, by catching fish in the 
 summer, and wild-fowl in the winter. One of these men, who was 
 examined as a witness at Cambridge Assizes, being asked, as usual, 
 what he was, said ' I follow fowling and fishing.' On another occa- 
 sion, a poor man, a witness in court, said, in answer to the same- 
 question, ' a banker.' The Judge, I think it was Alderson, remarked, 
 ' We cannot have any absurdity.' The man replied, ' I am a banker, 
 my lord.' He was a man w^ho repaired the banks of the dykes, so 
 peculiar were the local callings. The result of our view was the making 
 a new bed to the river Ouse, by cutting off a great part of the bend ; and 
 this tract of barren acres now produces excellent crops of corn, instead 
 of reeds and rushes." — P. 146. 
 
 " The skill of the engineer has enabled the fen farmers to labour 
 with ever increasing profit, and to enjoy the fruits of their industry in 
 comparative health and comfort. JMo wonder they love the land 
 wdiicli has been w^on by toil so protracted and so brave. Unpicturesqua 
 though the fens may be to eyes accustomed to the undulating and hill 
 country of the western districts of England, they nevertheless possess 
 a humble beauty of their own, especially to eyes familiar to them from 
 childhood. The long rows of pollards, with an occasional windmill, 
 stretching along the horizon as in a Dutch landscape — the wide ex- 
 tended flats of dark peaty soil, intersected by dykes and drains, with 
 here and there a green tract covered with sleek cattle — have an air of 
 vastness, and even grandeur, which is sometimes very striking. To 
 this we may add, that the churches of the district, built on sites which 
 were formerly so many oases in the watery desert, loom up in the 
 distance like landmarks, and are often of remarkable beauty of out- 
 line." — Smiles. 
 
 It may be useful to add here the old courses of the Cambridgeshire 
 rivers, before any new cuts or " straightenings " were made. They 
 have iDeen carefully traced in a pamphlet on ' The Pioads and Dykes 
 of Ancient Cambridgeshire ' by Professor Babington. 
 
 The Neiie, on arriving at Peterborough, turned to the right, and 
 making a circuit through Whittlesea, Ugg, and Eamsey meres, passed 
 then by March to Wisbeach. 
 
 The Great Ouse enters the fens near Earith, where it formerly 
 
Ixiv Antiquities. Cambeidge. 
 
 forked; its chief hranch flowing by Harrimere, Ely, and Littleport, 
 then by what is now called the Welney river to Wisbeach, where, in 
 conjunction Avith the Nenc, its waters entered the sea. The other 
 branch of the Ouse is now called the West Water, and ran from 
 Earith to Benwick, where it joined the main channel of the Xene. 
 Both these cliannels are now nearly, or quite, closed to the waters of 
 the Ouse, which are carried by the " Bedford rivers " in a direct line to 
 Denver, and there poured into the channel of the Little Ouse, to reach 
 the sea at Lynn, 
 
 The Little Ouse thus retains its own channel. 
 
 The Cam^ though it changes its name to " Ouse " at Harrimere, 
 ■where it originally joined that river on its way to Wisbeach, does 
 now really extend by way of Ely and Prickwillow to Denver ; for, 
 except in cases of very great floods, not a drop of Ouse Avater enters it 
 before that place is reached. 
 
 Thus nearly all the water wdiich reached the Great Level found its 
 natural outlet at Wisbeach (Ousebeach), wdiere originall}^ the channel 
 was deep enough to afibrd a natural drainage to the country. In 
 process of time, this outlet became choked, and the rivers changed 
 their courses, or were diverted by artificial means. 
 
 Antiquities. 
 
 § 43. Primceval, British^ and Boman. Eelics have been dis- 
 covered in the Fens, some of which may possibly be of great antiquit3^ 
 Some are preserved in the museum of the Cambridge ArchaBological 
 Society (see FitzwiUiam Museum, lite. 1). Others are in the hands of 
 private collectors. On the chalk hills, tow^ard the southern boundary 
 of the county, and especially along the line of the Icenhilde Way, 
 many grave mounds and tumuli exist, ranging from the British period 
 to the post-Eoman. The Icenhilde itself was unquestionably a British 
 joad, and was never a " via strata." (See §§ 16, 33.) This road, pas- 
 sing from Thetford by Icklingham, crossed the Lark or Lack at Lack- 
 ford, and falling into the present turnpike road at Kentford, became 
 thence the boundary of Suffolk and Cambridgeshire to a part of Xew- 
 market Heath, half a mile E. of the Devil's Ditch. Thence it 
 proceeded towards Chesterford and Eoyston. The manner in which 
 this remarkable road w-as accompanied b}^ parallel or "loop lines" is 
 mentioned in Ete. G. The most important of these loop lines is known 
 as the " Ash well Street." 
 
 The Icenhilde and other ancient roads of Cambridgeshire have 
 been described by Professor Babington in the paper already men- 
 tioned. These roads were — 1, a branch of the Akeman Street, running 
 from Cambridge to Cirencester, by Comberton, where a large villa was 
 found in 1842 (see Ete. 8) ; 2, the Via Devana, from Cambridge to 
 Colchester. It entered Suffolk near Withersfield. In Cambridgeshire 
 it is called the " Wool Street." A short distance W. of this road is the 
 important camp, called Vandlebury or Wandlebury (see Ete. 1); 
 
In trod., § 44. Antiquities. Ixv 
 
 3, the Via Devana, running from Cambridge to Cliester. It passed 
 near Granchester and Barton,'^ and a short branch, leaving the main 
 road at Red Cross, went direct to Granchester ; 4, the Erniing Street, 
 coming from London, entered the county at Chesterford (Iceani) and 
 followed the line of the present turnpike road to Godmanchester 
 (Durolipons) (see Rte. 7) ; 5, a road from Great Chesterford seems to 
 have joined the Peddar Way in Norfolk, at Castle Acre ; 6, a cause- 
 way ran from Cambridge across the fen country to Ely. 
 
 Some Roman camps, but none of any great extent or importance, 
 are found on the lines of these roads. The only Roman station of 
 much strength in the district was Cambridge itself (Camboricum) 
 (see Rte. 1); and in connection with it was Granchester (Rte. 1). 
 Numerous Roman remains, some of which are of considerable interest, 
 are preserved in the collection of the Cambridge Archaeological Society, 
 now in the Fitzwilliam Museum (Rte. 1). They have been found in 
 different parts of the country, chiefly in the neighbourhood of the 
 roads. 
 
 Four great houndary dykes, as strong as any in the kingdom, exist 
 in the southern part of the county. The elevated rampart is on the 
 west side of three of these dykes, clearly indicating that they were 
 made by the inhabitants of what are now Norfolk and Suffolk as a 
 defence against the people of the interior. They certainly formed (at 
 one time) the boundary between East Anglia and Mercia; and the 
 easternmost marked the limits of St. Edmund's halidome from the time 
 of Cnut. Each extended from fen 'land to wooded country, quite 
 crossing the narrow open district between. They are — 1, the DeviVs 
 Ditch (see it described in Rte. 2). Matthew of Westminster records 
 that King Edward (a.d. 902) fought a battle " inter duo fossata S. 
 Eadmundi." The Devil's Ditch was one of these fosses ; the other was 
 (2) the Fleam or Bahliam Dyke (see also Rte. 2). The two others 
 are (3) the Brent or Pampisford Ditch, beginning at Pampisford and 
 continued to Abington Park ; 4, the Bran or Baydon Ditch, beginning 
 at the S. end of a tract of fen called Melbourn Common. Bej'ond 
 Royston it enters Essex, and ascends the hill to Haydon, where the 
 ancient woodlands began. 
 
 These dykes may be (and probably are) of British origin ; though, 
 as we have seen, there is distinct evidence that they were adopted as 
 boundaries by Anglian settlers. 
 
 § 44. Mediaeval 
 
 Ecclesiasticcd. — The Churches of Cambridgeshire well deserve atten- 
 tion. Without the remarkable peculiarities which distinguish those 
 of Norfolk and Suffolk, they are many of th^m large and important, 
 and display much architectural beauty. The churches in the neigh- 
 bourhoods of Cambridge and of Ely are the best in the county, as 
 might be expected, the former having been, many of them, attached to 
 the University — the latter belonging to the Ely Benedictines. The 
 churches south of Cambridge are not so interesting. 
 
 The best and most valuable examples of the different periods are — 
 
Ixvi Antiquities. Cambridge. 
 
 English before the Conquest. * St. BenecUcfs, in Cambridge (Ete. 
 1) is possibly of this date. The tower arch, which has hitely been 
 cleared, and is now well seen, is veiy remarkable. 
 
 Norman. — The Norman work in this county is generally plain and 
 massive. The best examples are — * the Church of the Holy Sepul- 
 chre^ Cambridge (Rte, 1) ; Sturhridge Chapel (Rte. 1). * Ely Cathedral 
 (nave and transepts) (Kte. 3) ; and the remaining portion of the church 
 of * Thorney (Kte. 4). There is good Transition Norman at * Soham 
 (nave and tower arches) (Rte. 3), in the Priory Church at Isleham 
 (Rte. 3) and, at Bourn (Rte. 7). Norman portions also exist at 
 Swafham Prior (St. Cyriac's tower — Rte. 2) ; Kirtling (Rte. 2) ; 
 Stuntney (Rte. 3) ; JDoivnham (portals — Rte. 4) ; Wisheach, JSt. Peters 
 (arches in nave — Rte. 5) ; and Ilaslijig field (Rte. 6). There are 
 Norman fonts at Hauxton, Coton, Shepretli, St. Peter's Cambridge, 
 Stuntney and Great Wilbraham. 
 
 Early English. — The chapel of * Jesus College, Cambridge (Rte. 1), is 
 very good and beautiful E.E. * Cherry Einton (Rte. 2) is a beautiful 
 example of this time, with late Perp. tower. The Galilee and the 
 Eastern part of the choir of Ely Cathedral (Rte. 3) rank deservedly 
 among the best E.E. compositions in the country. Other E.E. 
 churches (or portions of churches) are — St. 3Iary's, Ely (Rte. 3,^ 
 chancel and nave arches); * Soham (Rte. 3); * Forclham (Rte. 3); 
 Wicken (Rte. 3) ; Baddenham (Rte. 3) ; Downham (Rte. 4 — nave) ; 
 March, St. Wendreda's (Rte. 4— arcade); * Eiston (Rte. 5 — chancel 
 and transepts) ; Long Statiton, St. MichaeVs (Rte. 5) ; Swavcsey (Rte. 
 5) ; * Leverington (Rte. 5 — parts of church, and very fine tower) ; 
 Barrington (Rte. 6 — nave-arches and S. doorway) ; Haslingfield 
 (Rte. 6); *Guilden Morden (Rte. 7 — nave); Bourn (Rte. 7 — fine 
 tower) ; Comberton (parts, Rte. 8) ; Eildersham (Rte. 9 — with Perp, 
 additions). 
 
 Decorated. — The finest examples of pure Decorated in Cambridge- 
 shire, and, perha})S, the finest in England, are the * Octagon and 
 Western Choir of Ely Cathedral (Rte. 3: the *Lady Chapel at Ely 
 is later than these works, and approaches to the Perpendicular). The 
 county is very rich in decorated work. The churches of * Trumping- 
 ton (Rte. 1 — containins; the fine brass of Sir Roger de Trumpington, 
 d. 1289); * Bottisham\Vy\e. 2); and * ^/sirorf/V (Rte. 7) are almost 
 entirely of this period, and are excellent examples. ]Many churches 
 contain Decorated portions. The best are Elttle Shelford (Rte. 1) and 
 * Fulbourne (Rte. 2 : there is the fine brass of William de Fulbourne, 
 died 1391) ; Swafham Bulbeck (Rte. 2) ; * Westley Waterless (Rte. 2 
 — brass of Sir John de Creke, 1325) ; Borough Green (Rte. 2 : in this 
 church are three Dec. high tombs, with effigies of De Burghs); 
 ■ Landheach (Rte. 3 ; chancel only,— late Dec.) ; ^St. Marijs, Ely (Rte. 
 3 — tower) ; Soham (Rte. 3 — chancel) ; Downham (Rte. 4 — chancel) ; 
 ■^ Over (Rte. 5) ; * Willingham (Rte. 5) ; Chatteris (Rte. 5) ; St. 
 Peter's, Wisbeach (Rte. 5— chancel); Haslingfield (Rte. 6); Harlton 
 (1 Ue. () — late) ; Basingbourne (Rte. 7) ; Gamlingay (Rte. 8) ; *Bals~ 
 
 * 
 
 * 
 
Introd., § 45. Antiquities. Ixviii 
 
 Jiam (Ete. 9); * Prior Craudene's Chapel^ Ely (Rte, 3) is fine late 
 Decorated. In Camliridge (Rte. 1) the churches of St. Mary-the-Less^ 
 St. Mlchaely and St. Edward, all contain Dec. portions, and are worth 
 notice. 
 
 Perpendicidar. — Of this style there are some good examples in 
 Cambridgeshire, though the parish churches built during the Perpen- 
 dicular period are not equal in size and importance to those in Norfolk 
 and Suffolk. Cambridge itself contains what is probably the finest 
 example of its age — * King^s College Chapel (Ete. 1); the * Chapels of 
 Bp. Alcock and Bp. West in Ely Cathedral (Ete. 3) should also be 
 mentioned here. Of the churches the best are Great Shelford 
 (Rte. 1) ; * Great St. Mary^s, Camhridge (Ete. 1) ; * Chesterton 
 (Ete. 1 — chancel, rest of the church Dec.) ; Sicaffham Prior, St. 
 Mary's (Ete. 2 — tower) ; * Burwell (Ete. 2 — good woodwork) ; Cheveley 
 (Ete. 2 — nave) ; * Landbeach (Ete, 3 : the church contains some fine 
 woodwork) ; Cottenham (Ete. 3) ; * Soham (Ete. 3 — W. tower) ; 
 
 * Isleham (Ete. 3 — fine open roof of the Suffolk type ; many brasses) ; 
 
 * Wilhurton (Ete. 3); * March, St. Wendredas (Ete. 4 — the fine roof 
 of nave only) ; * Whittlesea, St. Marys (Ete. 4 — tower and spire) ; 
 Thorney (Ete. 4 — west front) ; * Iliston (Ete. 5 — nave) ; Doddington 
 (Ete. 5) ; Wisheach, St. Peter's (Ete. 5 — tower) ; * Leverington (Ete. 5 
 nave) ; MeTbourne (Ete. 6 — tower) ; * GuiJden Morden (Ete. 7 — fine 
 tower — roodloft perfect) ; Toft (Ete. 8 — good roof) ; * Balsham (Ete. 9 
 — portions). 
 
 § 45. Cambridge alone affords a series of architectural examples, 
 ranging from a period before the Conquest to the present day. I'liese 
 are fully described in Ete. 1 ; and the more important early buildings 
 are mentioned in the preceding section. The chief w^orks from the 
 latter half of the sixteenth century downward are — the hall of Trinity 
 College (Elizabethan), and the Eenaissance " Nevile's Court " of 
 Trinity. The second com-t of St. John's College, begun 1598, com- 
 pleted 1602. Clare College, a very beautiful and perfect example of 
 the 17th century. The President's Lodge and inner court of Queen's 
 (Elizabethan) ; the library of Trinity College, a fine work of Sir 
 Christopher Wren, and the chapel of Pembroke, also by Wren. The 
 Senate House and the West side of King's College are by Gibbs 
 (circ. 1730). The front of Emmanuel College was designed by 
 Essex, early in the reign of George III. Corpus Christi College and 
 the south side of King's College are by Wilkins ; as is the com- 
 pleted portion of Downing College — an earlier and better work of 
 different style. 
 
 The most recent works, all of which are important and fine, are — 
 the Fitzwilliam Museum, completed as it now remains in 1847, 
 architects, Basevi and Cockerell. The chapel of St. John's College, 
 by Gilbert G. Scott. The front of Gonville and Cains College, by 
 Waterhouse, and the Union by the same architect. The Hall of Gon- 
 ville and Caius by Salvin ; and the Hall and Combination Eooms of 
 Peterhouse by G. G. Scott, junior. 
 
Ixviii Geology, Cambridge. 
 
 The best ImUs in Cambridge are those of Trinity, St. John's (partly 
 altered by G. G. Scott), and Jesus. 
 
 Of the gateways, those of Jesus (Tudor), Trinity (Ed. IV), St. John's 
 (late Tudor), and Queen's (1499), are strikinp; and fine. The old gates 
 of Gonville and Cains are especially noticeable as examples of early 
 Renaissance in this country. 
 
 § 46. Monastic remains. — EJy was the great monastery of Cam- 
 bridgeshire ; and there are some valuable remains of the domestic 
 buildings, besides the close wall "^vith its gateway. These are all 
 described in Ete. 3. At Tliorney (Benedictine, Rte. 4), a fine portion 
 of the Church remains, but of the Abbey itself and its domestic 
 buildings there are only foundations. Uliere are some remains of 
 Denny Ahhey (Rte. 3, Nuns of St. Clare), which in style are Early 
 Norman and Decorated. The late Norman church, now desecrated, 
 is all that exists of the Priory at Isleham (Rte. 3). 
 
 § 47. Military aiid Domestic. — There are no remains of castellated 
 buildings in Cambridgeshire. The mound of the Castle at Cambridge, 
 which was probably in existence long before the Norman fortress was 
 raised on and about it, still exists, while the buildings themselves 
 liave long disappeared. There was a Norman castle at Wisbeach, and 
 a second erected on the same site by the Bishops of Ely, but no traces 
 remain. 
 
 In Domestic architecture Cambridgeshire is scarcely richer. The 
 so-called School of Pythagoras at Cambridge (Rte. 1) was, in reality, a 
 small manor house of late Norman character, and is interesting. The 
 President's Lodge at Queen's College is a good example of Elizabethan 
 domestic, and was built nearly at the same time with, and has much* 
 of the arrangement of, H addon Hall in Derbyshire. The Bishop's 
 Palace at Ely (Rte. 3) is Tudor, and contains some good portions. 
 Sawston HaJl (Rte. 1) is late Tudor, and unchanged. MadingJey 
 Hall (Rte. 1) dates from about 1600. Wimpole (Rte. 7) was begun in 
 1632, and ranges to the middle of the last century. The George Inn 
 at Caxton (Rte. 7) is worth notice as a good Jacobajan house. 
 
 § 48. The chief collections of ^;/c^wres and vorks of art in Cam- 
 bridgeshire are in the P^itzwiJliam Museum at Cambridge (Rte. 1), and 
 at Wimpole (Rte. 7). But in nearly every College in Cambridge there 
 are portraits of great interest, and sometimes of considerable excellence. 
 The best of these are noticed in Rte. 1. They are to be found in the 
 Master's Lodge, in the Hall, and Combination Rooms. 
 
 The Museum of the Cambridge Antiquarian Society (in the Fitz- 
 william — see Rte. 1) contains some interesting things ; and there is 
 a small collection at Wisbeach, chiefly of Roman Antiquities found in 
 the neighbourhood. 
 
 Geology. 
 
 § 49. The greater part of Cambridgeshire (all the northern portion 
 of the county) is covered by alluvial deposits, forming the Great Level 
 
Introd., § 50. Geology. Ixix 
 
 of the Fens. These rest on a deposit of clay of o;reat but unknown 
 thickness. All the lower portion belongs to the Oxford clay, and the 
 highest portion to the Kimmeridge. The fens are bordered S. and E. 
 by a narrow belt of coral rag or of Kimmeridge clay ; beyond which 
 extends a strip of low^er and then of upper greensand ; and beyond 
 again, along the southern border of the county, is the chalk. 
 
 (In the folio wing, sections, the passages within quotation marks are 
 from a paper drawn up by Professor Sedgwick for the use " of those 
 members of the University who begin their practical study of geo- 
 logy in the neighbourhood of Cambridge.") 
 
 § 50. The mesozoic, or secondary rocks, are thus well illustrated in 
 Cambridgeshire. The cliolh is of two divisions — upper, w^th flints ; 
 lower, without flints. The eastern boundary of the chalk is marked' 
 by copious springs ; for the surface-water i^ercolates through the chalk 
 into the upper greensand, but cannot descend through the gait, which 
 lies between the upper and the lower greensand. " The escarpment of 
 the upper chalk ranges considerably to the east of Cambridge. The 
 chalk hills nearest Cambridge are spurs sent out from the low^r chalk 
 escarpment. Fossils abound at Cherry Hinton pits — sharks' teeth of 
 several species ; dorsal fins and vertebrse ; portions of saurocephalus ; 
 echinoderms ; many bivalves ; gasteropods, cephalopods, &c. True 
 coprolites were collected from these pits by Dr. Woodward. Holaster 
 sicbgJohosus and PUcatula infiata may be mentioned as very charac- 
 teristic of these lower chalk pits." 
 
 Very numerous fossils have been obtained from workings which 
 pierce the upper greensand in the neighbourhood of Cambridge. The 
 upper greensand here is seldom more than a foot in thickness, and 
 appears under the lower chalk and resting on the gait. Among the 
 species found in it are thirty reptiles, including dinosaurs and croco- 
 dilians, pterodactyls, enaliosaurs, and chelonians; more than twentj^ 
 fishes ; many cephalopods ; many crustaceg, ; and numerous corals 
 and sponges. 
 
 The gait on which the upper greensand rests is the brick-earth of 
 Cambridge, with a thickness of about 150 feet. Its fossils agree 
 nearly with those of the upper greensand. 
 
 The lower greensand is at Ely about 8 or 9 ft. thick : at Hadden- 
 ham about 15 ft. It becomes much thicker as it ranges toward the- 
 N.E. and westward by Bourn and Great Gransden into Bedfordshire. 
 " Near Cambridge it contains many fragments of dicotyledonous wood, 
 and a few obscure fragments of shells." 
 
 The formations hitherto mentioned belong to the cretaceous group. 
 The Oolitic group (below the cretaceous) is represented in Cambridge- 
 shire by the Kimmeridge clay, the coral rag, and the Oxford clay. 
 
 The Kimmeridge day is best seen near Ely. "It contains many 
 characteristic fossils (such as gryphasa (exogyra) virgula, ostrea 
 deltoidea, numerous opercula of ammonites, &c.), and abounds in the 
 bones of the plesiosaur and the pliosaur, sometimes of a gigantic size. 
 It is also remarkable for its grand calcareous concretions, often with 
 
Ixx Geology. Cambridge. 
 
 a scptarian structure. The clay pit near Ely also exposes tlie most 
 remarkable fault which can be seen in this part of England." 
 
 The coral rag or middle oolite rises from beneath the Kimmeridge 
 clay, " and forms a saddle of small curvature at Upwcare al)ont 8 m. 
 "below Cambridge. It there for about a mile makes along the line of 
 strike a well marked feature in the fenny country, but it soon dis- 
 appears. . . . The Upware beds contain several characteristic corals, 
 spines of the Cidaris florigemma, Trigonia clavellata, and one or two 
 characteristic Pectens. The fossils are abundant, and well deserving 
 of a comparative study." 
 
 The Oxford clay lies below the Kimmeridge ; and there is no indica- 
 tion of any break of continuity between these formations. " If so, 
 a portion of the great fen- clay must be contemporaneous with the 
 
 coral reefs of the middle oolite There are several hard, impure, 
 
 calcareous, shelly bands in the Oxford clay (as at Elsworth, N.W. of 
 Cambridge); and the clay above them has been considered (from a 
 comparison of its fossils) as the representative of the coral rag. 
 
 " The pits of Oxford clay near ^t. Ives contain many characteristic 
 fossils, are easily accessible, and are well deserving of a visit." 
 
 § 51. Upon these Kimmeridge and Oxford clays rests the gi'eat 
 mass of alluvial matter forming the fenland of the Level. All this is, 
 of course, of comparatively modern formation. " In the Bedford Level 
 we can trace the rise of the fen-lands through the deposits of land- 
 floods and the growth of turf-bogs, very distinctly during 700 or 800 
 years. The works constructed by the Eomans carry the physical 
 history back through another long period of centuries. And by a 
 comparison of the effects produced during all known periods, we can 
 form some probable estimate of the whole period of time which has 
 elapsed since the commencement of the oldest deposits of alluvial silt 
 and turf within the confines of the Bedford Level. There must, how- 
 ever, be much uncertainty in such a calculation. But (unless I have 
 quite mistaken the evidence) it gives us no results which can carry us 
 back through more than a few thousand years. Under that conclu- 
 sion I cannot, however, comprehend (from want of fuller knowledge 
 of the evidence) the oldest deposits of silt, drifted matter, and bog- 
 land which have been found in the ancient dried-up lakes of Norfolk" 
 (see Norfolk, Ete. 12, Wretham Mere). " Within the Cambridge- 
 shire fen-lands we find in abundance the remains of the otter, beaver, 
 roebuck, red-deer, wild-boar, and bos longifrons, well preserved ; and 
 not rounded by attrition, like the mammals' bones in the gravel." 
 (See post.) " Also those of the wolf, bear, horse, and bos primigenius, 
 which are, perhaps, more rare. Several specimens both of the horse 
 and bos primigenius were laid bare in the excavations made for the 
 foundation of the New Court of St. John's College." (The Court 
 beyond the river.) " The sinkings passed through many beds of 
 limnea, paludina, &c., like those in all the neighbouring ditches ; and 
 the shell-beds alternated with sand, drift, and thin layers of half- 
 carbonized vegetable matter. It was among those deposits, and at 
 
Introd., § 52. Geology. Ixxi 
 
 different successive levels, that the jaws of a horse, and the horns and 
 skulls of the bos primigenius were found. The well known Irish elk, 
 if it lived in Cambridgeshire during the fen period, must have been 
 rare ; as the few specimens of the species that have found their way to 
 the Cambridge (Woodwardian) Museum, are not from the fen-lands, 
 but from the gravel-beds." — Sedgivick. 
 
 § 52. Besides these regular formations and deposits, Cambridgeshire 
 contains much diluvial deposit — superficial drift not accounted for 
 either by land floods, or by any ordinary action of the tides and 
 marine currents. This drift belongs to the glacial period, during part of 
 which, all (except, perhaps, the southern portion) of the British Isles, 
 was submerged under a glacial sea which stood far above the tops of 
 the highest chalk hills. The varieties of the diluvial drift near Cam- 
 bridge are — 
 
 1. Boulder Clay. This is identical with the boulder clay of the Nor- 
 folk coast, described in Norfolk, Etc. 4 {Cromer), and East Anglia, 
 Introd. Geology. " In all places where it is seen near Cambridge, it 
 contains many rolled fragments of chalk; and the abraded chalk is 
 sometimes so abundant as to give to the clay a tinge of light grey. It 
 contains many fragments of rocks, more or less rounded and water- 
 worn; and some large hoidders, which may have been brought by ice- 
 rafts from great distances. But the largest blocks . . . belong to the 
 formations of the neighbouring counties. A visit to the clay pits near 
 Ely vdll give the student a better knowledge of this boulder ^clay than 
 can be conveyed by any verbal description." It is spread over all the 
 higher lands between Cambridgeshire and Bedfordshire, and over a 
 considerable part of Huntingdonshire. It extends also into Essex 
 and Norfolk. In the neighbourhood of Cambridge " the greater part 
 of this drift appears to have been derived from the clays, stone-bands, 
 and septaria under the Great Bedford Level, which seem to have been 
 torn uj) and pushed onward by ' waves of translation,' as the land 
 (towards the end of the glacial period, and probably after often 
 repeated shocks) continued to rise." The great boulders were pro- 
 bably conveyed by ice. 
 
 2. Deposits of boulders, pebbles, sand, and gravel on the Cambridge 
 hnis. 
 
 " Examples of this kind are seen at the top of the Gogmagog Hills ; 
 on the brow of the chalk hills which overhang Stapleford ; and on the 
 top of Harston Hill. Among these deposits are many flints, washed 
 out of the neighbouring upper chalk, and more or less rounded ; and 
 with these are specimens of lias, and indeed of nearly all the rocks of 
 the Mesozoic series. (A very fine block of this kind, several tons in 
 w^eight, may be_seen at AVimpole, in the pleasure grounds of the Earl 
 of Hardwick). . . . Specimens of many of the great rock formations of 
 England may be readily obtained from these gravel deposits. None 
 of the rock specimens are perfectly angular. They have been partially 
 rounded, and a few of them are grooved and scratched, but with much 
 irregularity. . . . No shells, or other organic remains of the Drift period, 
 
Ixxii Traveller's View. Cambridge, 
 
 have, I believe, been found in these deposits of coarse gravel." The- 
 rock masses were, no doubt, borne away on ice-rafts, and stranded on 
 the hills, where we now find them, 
 
 3. Fine comminuted flint-cjravd on the plains bordering on the 
 Cam, &c. 
 
 The gravel dug in the neighbourhood of Cambridge, and on which 
 Cambridge itself stands, belongs to this deposit. " Flints from the 
 upper chalk compose the greater part of its solid materials. They have 
 been shattered and broken up into angular fragments. . . . Among 
 them are found, in many of the gravel pits, rounded masses, seldom of 
 a large size, derived from distant foriiiations, such as porphyry, sicnite, 
 hard quartzite from the Pala30zoic rocks, &c. 
 
 " These gravel beds, like all other drift deposits, vary much in struc- 
 ture, — in one extreme forming a very coarse gravel, and in the other, 
 passing into a fine, comminuted sand, mixed with various im^Jurities. 
 It is in the finer beds that mammal bones (elephant, rhinoceros, horse, 
 hippopotamus, bos primigenius, Irish elk, and whale) are chiefly found ; 
 for in such beds the bones would be far less exposed to the risk of 
 mechanical destruction than in the coarser gravels ; and it is among the 
 lower sandy beds of the Barnwell pits that freshwater and land shells 
 have long been found in a state of good preservation. Associated with 
 them were also found the remains of bos primigenius, rhinoceros, hippo- 
 potamus, elephant, and horse. Not that there was any natural connec- 
 tion between the shells and the bones; but that the drifted bones 
 found a resting-place in the hollow of what was probably an ancient 
 lake, and were preserved from entire destruction by the nature of the 
 deposit in which they became buried. . . . The flint gravel, here 
 described, seems to have been formed by the long-continued action of 
 the waters of the sea, as it was gradually falling to its present level, 
 near the end of the glacial period. Many pools of water and shallow 
 lakes might arise out of such conditions as are here considered ; and a 
 slight oscillation in the ancient lines of sea-level might produce more 
 drifted materials to obliterate, or partially cover up, such freshwater 
 beds as those which are seen in the Cambridge gravel." — Sedgwick. 
 
 The student of the Geology of Cambridgeshire will find the greatest 
 assistance in the collections of the Woodwardian or Geological Museum 
 at Cambridge (Rte. 1). The various formations within the limits of 
 the county are well illustrated; and there are numerous and very 
 fine examples of the remains discovered in the Cambridge gravel beds, 
 and in the fen lands. 
 
 Traveller's View. 
 
 § 53. There are three places of interest in Cambridgeshire, — Cartibridgey 
 Ely, NeivmarJcet. It need hardly be said that Newmarket attracts a 
 special class of visitors, very different from those who find their way to 
 Cambridge and Ely. 
 
 The Fen country, and the great works that have made it what it is. 
 
Introd., § 54. Traveller's View. Ixxiii 
 
 are interestinsi; to men of science and to engineers ; and the scenery is 
 so peculiar that few will regret a flight through it by railway, though 
 they may hardly care to make a lengthened visit. The churches of the 
 fens, however, especially about Ely, are fine, and may safely be recom- 
 mended to the attention of the ecclesiologist. 
 
 Cambridge, one of the great centres of English life, is only to be 
 matched in this (or in any other) country by the sister University of 
 Oxford. The visitor may spend a week or a month there with the 
 greatest pleasure and advantage. Ely attracts the antiquary and 
 the lover of ecclesiastical architp^ture. There is no grander cathedral 
 in England : none certainly which is more impressive from its size and 
 from the variety and beauty of its several parts. 
 
 More need hardly be said of Cambridgeshire. The county is not one 
 of those which a tourist would select for his summer wanderings ; but 
 Cambridge and Ely so far exceed in interest anything that the greater 
 number of English counties can show, that they alone are sufficient to 
 give very high place and position to the shire of which they are the 
 principal attractions. 
 
 Skeleton Tours. 
 
 § 54. A tour through the four Eastern counties, visiting only the places 
 of chief interest. 
 
 (The resting places, from which excursions may be made, are marked 
 with an asterisk. Unless otherwise stated, all the places mentioned are 
 accessible by railway. The eastern divisions of Essex and (Suffolk are 
 visited in passing into Norfolk ; the western in returning.) 
 
 London to * Southend. (Visit fladleigh Castle and Shoeburyness.) 
 From Southend, drive by Rayleigh across the country to * Chelmsford. 
 (From Chelmsford visit Danbury.) Chelmsford to * Colchester. (From 
 Colchester visit Earl's Colne, Castle Hedingham, and Little*Maplestead 
 church.) Colchester to Harwich. From Harwich up the Orwell to 
 
 * Ipswich. (From Ipswich visit Woodbridge, Butley Abbey, and 
 Orford Castle, Another excursion may be made to Shrubland Park.) 
 Ipswich to Framlingham. (A^isit Dennington church.) Framlingham to 
 
 * Lowestoft. (Visit Beccles and Bungay, South wold, and Somerleyton.) 
 Lowestoft to * Yarmouth. (From Yarmouth visit Caister Castle and 
 the Broads ; and Brough Castle, on the Suffolk side of the Yare). 
 Yarmouth to * Norwich. (Drive to Caister St. Edmund's, and Costessy. 
 Visit, by railway, Wymondham and Attleborough.) Norwich to 
 
 * Cromer (visit North Walsh am and Worstead churches ; and from 
 Aylsham make an excursion to Caw^ston, Salle, and Blickling. See 
 Felbrigge.) From Cromer drive by Sheringham to * Holt. (Visit 
 Melton Constable.) From Holt, by Binham Abbey, to New Walsing- 
 ham. Walsingham to Wells. (Visit Holkham.) Wells, by rail, to 
 
 * Hunstanton. (Visit Hunstanton church. Excursion to Snettisham, 
 Dersingham, and Sandringham.) Hunstanton to * King's Lynn. (Visit 
 
 [Ess'^r, dr.'] d 
 
Ixxiv Traveller's View. Cambridge. 
 
 the churches of Tihiey All Saints, and Terriiigton St. Clement's ; and 
 Castle Piising church and castle.) From Lynn, drive, by Hou2;hton, 
 across the country to * Fakenham. (From Fakenham visit liainham.) 
 15y rail to East Dereham. See the church, and proceed to * Swaffham. 
 (From Swaffham visit Castle Acre Tind Oxborough ; and, if possible, 
 Narford Hall.) Drive to Walton; thence, by rail, to Thetford. Thet- 
 ford to * P]ly. (Make an excursion into the fen country N. of Ely.) 
 Ely to * Cambridge. Cambridge, by Newmarket, to * Bury St. Edmund's. 
 (Many excursions from Bury St. Edmund's are described in Suffolk, 
 Kte. 3.) From Bury, by Lavenham, Long Melford, and Clare, to the 
 Bartlow Station, on the line between Haverhill and Cambridge. From 
 that station to * Saffron Walden. (Visit Audley End. Drive to 
 Thaxted.) Thence, by rail, to Bishop's Stortford and Dunmow. 
 Returning to Bishop's Stortford, proceed, by rail, to * Waltham station, 
 (See Waltham Abbey.) Epping, and the picturesque points of the 
 forest, may either be visited from AValtham Abbey, or in separate 
 excursions from London. 
 
 IL 
 
 A Tour in Essex. 
 
 § 55. Woodford and Chigwell are good centres from which to explore 
 all that is left of Epping Forest. From Chigwell, Havering-at-Bower 
 may be visited. All these places, however, like many others in Essex, 
 are within a day's excursion from London. 
 
 London to Waltham Abbey. (See the church, and Waltham Cross.) 
 Thence drive by Epping to Chipping Ongar. (See the churches of 
 Greenstead and Stondon Massey. An excursion may also be made to 
 High Lavcr, where is the tomb of Locke.) From Ongar to Chelmsford. 
 (See the church. Make excursions to Danbury — see the hill and the 
 church ; and to Margaretting — see the church.) Chelmsford, by Witham, 
 to Braintree: (Bay's tomb, in Black Notley churchyard, may thence 
 be visited.) Braintree to Dunmow. (See the Priory church of Little 
 Dunmow. Make an excursion to Felstead church and Pleshey.) Dun- 
 mow to Bishop's Stortford, by rail ; thence to Saffron Walden. (At 
 Saffron Walden see the church and castle ; and Audley End. [There 
 are certain public days for Audley End, see Rte. 11, and the tour 
 should be arranged accordingly.] Make an excursion to Thaxted 
 church.) From Saffron Walden to the Bartlow station. Thence, by 
 Haverhill, to Castle Hedingham. (See the church and castle. Visit 
 the churches of Little Maplestead and Sible Hedingham.) Then, by 
 Halstcad (whence visit Gosfield Hall) and Earl's Colne (see the church, 
 and the De Vere monuments), to Colchester. At Colchester see the 
 castle and the town Avails. (Excursions to Layer Marney (church and 
 hall) and to Coggeshall Abbey.) From Colchester, by Manningtree, to 
 Harwich. (Walk to Dovercourt.) Thence drive to Walton-on-the- 
 Naze; and return thence, by rail, to Colchester. From Colchester, by 
 rail, to Brentwood. (See lliorndon Hall.) From Brentwood, drive by 
 
Introd., § 56. Travellers View. Ixxv 
 
 Billericay, Eayleigh, and Eocliford, to Southend. From Southend visit 
 Shoeburyness, Leigh church, and Hadleigh castle. Make an excursion 
 also to the Langdon Hills. Eeturn from Southend to London by the 
 river. 
 
 Ten days, or a fortnight, may be very agreeably spent in making this 
 tour. 
 
 in. 
 
 A TouE OF Three Weeks tx Norfolk and Suffolk. 
 
 § 56. From London to Harwich. Thence up the Orwell to Ipswich. 
 (At Ipswich see the churches, the museum, Sparrow's House, and the 
 Arboretum.) Make an excursion to Shrubland Park (gardens), and, if 
 possible, see the pictures at Orwell Park. (Visit Helmingham Hail.) 
 Ipswich, by rail, to Woodbridge. (See the church.) Thence drive to 
 Butley Abbey and Orford Castle. Keturn to Woodbridge, and proceed, 
 by rail, to Framlingham. (See the castle, the church, and the Middle- 
 Class College.) Visit Dennington church, and, if time permit, other 
 churches in the neighbourhood, mentioned in Rte. 5. From Framling- 
 ham the route may be either by rail to Aldborough, and thence along 
 the coast to Southwold, or the tourist may proceed to the Darsham 
 station, and thence by omnibus to Southwold. At Southwold, see the 
 church; and, either from Aldborough or Southwold, visit Dunwich. 
 From Southwold drive, by South Cove and Benacre to Lowestoft. 
 From Lowestoft visit Somerleyton Hall and Herringfleet church. See 
 also Haddiscoe church, in Norfolk. Lowestoft to Beccles (church) and 
 Bungay (church and castle). Thence, by rail, to Diss (church and 
 mere) ; whence (or from Eye) Hoxne and Wingfield (castle and church) 
 may be visited. From Diss, by rail, to Norwich (castle, cathedral, 
 churches, &c.) From Norwich visit the churches of Wymondham and 
 Attleborough, and make an excursion to East Dereham. Norwich to 
 Yarmouth (church, &c.). From Yarmouth visit the district of the 
 Broads, and proceed by them to North Walsham (church)* whence visit 
 Worstead church. From North Walsham to Cromer. See Felbrigge ; 
 visit Aylsham (church), and thence make an excursion to Cawston and 
 Salle churches, and to Blickling. Cromer, by Sheringham, to Holt. 
 Thence visit Melton Constable, and the church of Cley-next-the-Sea. 
 Holt, by Binham Abbey, to Walsingham. (From Walsingham, the 
 parsonage of Great Snoring, East Barsham Hall, Fakenham, and Piain- 
 ham may be visited.) Walsingham to Wells. See Holkham. Wells 
 to Hunstanton. See the church. Visit Snettisham and Dersingham 
 churches, and Sandringham. Hunstanton to King's Lynn. Thence 
 make excursions to Castle Rising and Houghton ; and to the churches 
 of the Marshland, especially Terrington St. Clement's, and Tilney All 
 Saints. Lynn to S waff ham, seeing Narford Hall, if possible, on the 
 Avay. From Swaffham visit Castle Acre, Oxborough, and Cressingham 
 — taking the last place in the drive to Walton — whence proceed, by 
 rail, to Thetford. From Thetford drive to Bury St. Edmund's, seeing 
 
Ixxvi Traveller's View. Canbridge. 
 
 Eiiston on tlie way. From Biiiy numerous excursions may be made 
 — to Ickworth, Hengrave, Barton Hall, &c., all of which are described 
 in Suffolk, Rte. 3. Bury, by Lavenham, and Long Melford (the 
 churches are important), to Sudbury (churches). Sudbury, by Caven- 
 . dish and Clare, to Haverhill. Thence to Cambridge. 
 
 A fortnight may very w^ell be given to Cambridge and Ely alone. 
 
 The principal churches in the Eastern Counties are mentioned in the 
 Introduction, under the head of Antiquities, and are fully described in 
 the several routes. Tliey are of sufficient interest and importance to 
 make them principal objects in a tour through the Eastern Counties. 
 
HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 ESSEX, SUFFOLK, NORFOLK, 
 
 AND 
 
 CAMBRIDGE. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 ESSEX. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 *:,.* The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are 
 
 described. 
 
 ROUTE 
 
 1 
 
 London to Southend (by 
 rail). Barldng, Grays- 
 Tlnirroch, Tilbury, Had- 
 leifjh, Shoehuryness .. 
 
 2. London to Ip.swich. Haver- 
 
 ing, Mountnessing, Ingate- 
 stone, Chelmsford, Bore- 
 Tiam, Withavi, Kehedon, 
 Coggesliall, Layer Blar- 
 ney, Lexden, Colchester .. 
 
 3. London to Braintree. Brain- 
 
 tree by Dunmoio to 
 Bishop's Stortford. \_Thax- 
 ied] 
 
 4. London to ilfaZcZo?!. [Othona^ 
 
 5. London to Southend, by 
 
 Brentwood, Bayleigh, and 
 Bochford. \_Ashingtoni\ . . 
 
 6. Colchester to Brightlingsea 
 
 and Wa Iton - on - the - Naze. 
 
 15 
 
 40 
 
 46 
 
 49 
 
 ROUTE 
 
 [ Wiven- 
 
 PACE 
 
 52 
 
 56 
 60 
 
 Mersea Island, 
 hoe, St. Osytlis.'] 
 
 7. Ijondowio Harwich. {Dover' 
 
 court^ 
 
 8. Colchester to Sudbury 
 
 9. Colchester to Haverhill, by 
 
 Halstead and Castle Hed- 
 inghani. EarVs Colne, Gos- 
 field, Little Maplestead. 63 
 
 10. London to Chipping Ongar. 
 
 OngartoDunmow. Wood- 
 ford, Chigivell, Epping 
 Forest, Greenstead, Ples- 
 hy 72 
 
 11. London to Cambridge by 
 
 Waltham and Bishop's 
 Stortford. Enfield, Walt- 
 ham Abbey, High Laver, 
 Audley End, Saffron Wal- 
 den .. , 82 
 
 [Essex, c&c] 
 
Houie I. — London to Southend. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 ROUTE 1. 
 
 LONDON TO SOUTHEND, BY RAIL. 
 
 (LONDON, TILBURY, AND SOUTHEND 
 RAILWAY.) 
 
 {Fenchurch Street Stat.) 
 
 [The steam-packet leaves the 
 Hungerford pier daily for Southend 
 and Sheerness ; and the Margate 
 packets (daily during the season) 
 call ott" Southend. Southend may 
 also be reached by the old turnpike- 
 road, through Brentwood, Billericay, 
 Kayleigh, and Eochford. (See Kte. 
 5.) The journey by rail, however, is 
 made in less than two hours, and 
 is by far the shorter.] 
 
 Passing the suburbs of Stepney 
 and Bromley, and the village of 
 Plaistow (at all w^hich places there 
 are stations. S. of Plaistow Stat. 
 Plaistow Level stretches to the 
 Thames), the line reaches 
 
 6| m. East Ham Stat. The river 
 Lea, which is crossed between Brom- 
 ley and Plaistow, divides Middlesex 
 from Essex. Its banks, down to its 
 junction with the Thames at Black- 
 wall, are crowded with establish- 
 ments of industry — manufactories of 
 chemical products, Congreve rockets, 
 and distilleries. 
 
 [About 4 m. N.W. of East Ham is 
 West Ham (pop. of parish, in 1861, 
 38,331). The Great Eastern Rail- 
 way Company have theii* works here ; 
 and the parish, which extends along 
 the Lea to the Thames, contains 
 numerous large copperworks, flour- 
 mills, distilleries, breweries, &c. In 
 the Ch. is an altar-tomb for Robert 
 Rook, US5. The ch. itself has been 
 restored ; and in the course of resto- 
 ration it was discovered that a Traus.- 
 
 Norm. clerestory exists in the w^all 
 above the Dec. arcade. (Carlisle 
 Cathedral affords a striking example 
 of such under-pinning.) A short 
 distance S.W. is the site of Stratford 
 Abbey, founded in 1134 by William 
 de Montfichet for Cistercian monks. 
 (Stratford is one of the 3 w^ards into 
 which the parish is divided. The 
 village of Stratford extends along the 
 Loudon road as far as Bow Bridge). 
 Of the abbey (the revenues of which 
 at the dissolution were ollZ. ICs.) 
 there are no remains, with the ex- 
 ception of an archway (perhaps part 
 of the cloisters) built up in the wall of 
 the ' Adam and Eve ' Inn. The dis- 
 trict ch. of Stratford w'as completed 
 in 1834 at a cost of about 23,000Z.]. 
 
 The Church of East Ham (dedicated 
 to St. Mary Magdalene, and given in 
 1319 by John of Lancaster to the 
 Cistercian abbey at Stratford) is 
 Norm., with much E.E. addition. 
 It has a low tower (the upper part 
 of which is modern), nave, and 
 double chancel. The principal chan- 
 cel has an elongated semicircular 
 apse, lighted by lancet windows. 
 The walls of the apse have been 
 covered with patterns in red and 
 green, and with figures of sacred per- 
 sonages above the arch opening from 
 the chancel. The whitewash was 
 removed from these wall paintings 
 in 1850. They are apparently of the 
 same date (the beginning of the 13th 
 centy.) as the apse itself. Behind 
 the altar is the monument with 
 effigies of Edm. Neville and his wife, 
 kneeling. This Edm. Neville, who 
 is styled in the inscription Lord 
 Latimer and Earl of Westmoreland, 
 died in the first half of the 17th 
 centy., and was grandson of Ralph 
 Earl of Westmoreland, attainted in 
 1570 for his share in the ' Rising of 
 the North.' Edm. Neville's titles, al- 
 though assumed, were never allowed. 
 His wife died in 1647. In the lower 
 chancel are some Norm, arches with 
 zigzag mouldings. The antiquary 
 
Essex. Botitel. — BarJdng : NortJiern Ouffall Beservoir. 3 
 
 Dr. Stukeley, the " Archdniid of his 
 age," as be was called, lies in the 
 ch.-yd., by bis own desire, "under 
 the smooth turf, without a head- 
 stone." Stukeley died in 1765, Eector 
 of St. George's, Queen Square. He 
 chose this place for his interment 
 some time before his death, when on 
 a visit to the Vicar of East Ham. 
 
 The great sewer of the North Lon- 
 don system traverses the East Ham 
 marshes. The Eoman Cloaca Maxi- 
 ma was small compared to it, — that 
 being a single channel 14 ft. in dia- 
 meter, built in dry masonry ; while 
 this consists of 3 co-ordinate channels 
 of 9 ft. diameter, built of best bricks, 
 and admirably cemented. In work- 
 ing it, about J m. from East Ham 
 Church, a stone Eoman sarcophagus, 
 and some Eoman coffins of lead were 
 found (they are now in the British 
 Museum). It has been suggested 
 that the site was tliat of a cemetery 
 attached to a Eoman camj) at Up- 
 hall (see post) ; and that troops were 
 stationed in that camp whilst the 
 adjacent marsh was in course of 
 drainage by British serfs. 
 
 Green Street House (J. Morley, 
 Esq.) is a fine old mansion with a 
 lofty tower, occupied at times, it is 
 said, by Henry VIII. and Anne 
 Boleyn. Et., at North Woolwich, on 
 the Thames bank, is the terminus of 
 the branch railway from Stratford ; 
 with a pier and a steam-ferry across 
 the Thames to Woolwich. 
 
 The rly., leaving East Ham, crosses 
 a low district of rich meadow land 
 and market-gardens, bordering on the 
 Thames. It is reputed aguish, but 
 has been, in this and other respects, 
 somewhat improved even by its pre- 
 sent imperfect drainage. 
 
 7 m.. Barking Stat. (Pop., in 
 1861, 5076). Barking stands on the 
 Eoding Eiver, here called Barking 
 Creek, 2 m. N. of the Thames. Bark- 
 ing Creek is no pleasant water-way. 
 The mud banks along it, constantly 
 increasing, obstruct the flow of the 
 
 sluggish stream. Various factories 
 adjoining add their charms of sight 
 and smell, and the Northern Outfall 
 of the London sewage, drained into 
 the Thames at the mouth of tho 
 creek, by no means improves matters. 
 Billingsgate fishmarket was until 
 late years chiefly supplied by Bark- 
 ing smacks, which, sailing in fleets 
 of 15 to 30, used to fish off the Dutch 
 coast, in the North Sea, and as far as 
 Orkney, for cod, bringing home the 
 fish preserved in wells below. At 
 least 1000 men and boys were em- 
 ployed in this fishery. But railways 
 interfered with the fishing trade ; the 
 sanitory conditions of the place are 
 entirely neglected ; fever is frequent ; 
 and, from the increase of mud- 
 banks, Barking is no longer able to 
 receive vessels of the tonnage which 
 formerly came up the creek. Hence 
 the town is in indiflerent condition, 
 although in the neighbourhood still 
 remain large market-gardens, 600 
 acres are devoted to potatoes, and 
 nearly 200 to cabbages, for the sup- 
 ply of London. The Ch. of St. Mar- 
 garet is Norm, and Perp. In it is a 
 monument for Sir C. Montagu, died 
 1625, brother to the first Earl of Man- 
 chester. He is represented in a tent. 
 The Norm, piers remain in the nave, 
 and the ch. was well restored in 1848 
 during the incumbency of the Hon. 
 and Eev. E. Liddell. It is said that 
 Captain Cook the circumnavigator 
 stood sponsor in this ch, for a girl 
 who he then declared should be his 
 future wife ; and he did afterwards 
 marry her. 
 
 TJie Northern Outfall Beservoir, at 
 the mouth of Barking Creek, is 11 J 
 m. below London Bridge, Its con- 
 struction cost 172,222Z. It covers an 
 area of about 10 acres, and is capable 
 of containing 39 million gallons of 
 sewage. Its depth is about 17 ft. 
 The whole of the North London 
 sewage is poured into this reservoir, 
 and thence is discharged into the 
 Thames, through culverts carried 
 into its bed, within two hours of high 
 
 B 2 
 
Boute 1 . — Barlcing Ahhey. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 \vatcr, so that it is dihited by tlic full 
 volume of the stream, and carried 
 downward by the full strength of 
 the tide. There arc 3 great sewage 
 systems for North London. The 
 Northern High Level commences at 
 Hampstead, and takes the drainage 
 of all the neighbouring district. 
 The Middle Level begins at Kensal 
 Green, and joins the high level at 
 Victoria Park. The Low Level begins 
 at Millbank, skirts the Thames to the 
 Tower, and then diverges to West 
 Ham. From West Ham the 3 great 
 drains are carried, mainly on arches, 
 over the peat to Barking Reach. 
 
 This Northern Outfall was com- 
 pleted and opened in July, 1864. 
 The engineer was J. W. Bazalgette. 
 The outfall (exclusive of the reser- 
 voir) cost altogether 669,7G1Z. The 
 •work, as has been before remarked, 
 is more than Eoman in its scale, and 
 in the thorough massiveness of its 
 construction. 
 
 A small portion of the sewage has 
 been turned to account in the cidti- 
 vation of the Lodge Farm at Bark- 
 ing ; and with excellent results. 
 Very large crops of rye grass, of tur- 
 nips, of cabbages, and of mangold 
 wurzel have been obtained, and 2 
 acres of strawberries produced in one 
 year 150/., the quality of the fruit 
 being attested by the award of the 
 bronze medal at the Royal Botanical 
 Society's Exhibition. 
 
 Barldng Ahhey, once noted for its 
 wealth, was founded in 670, by Erken- 
 wald, afterwards Bp. of London, for 
 Benedictine nuns. (See Bede, H. E., 
 iv., c. 6-10, At the same time Er- 
 kenwald founded the monastery of 
 Chertsey, where he was himself the 
 first ablDot. His sister, ^dilbcrga, 
 was the first abbess of Barking, 
 which place, under her rule, and 
 afterwards, became famous for visions 
 and miracles, duly recorded by Bede). 
 Barking Abbey was destroyed by the 
 Northmen in 870, but was rebuilt 
 and re-endowed by Edgar towards 
 the middle of the following centm-y. 
 
 Tlie abbess, often of royal or of noble 
 blood, had the precedency of all other 
 abbesses in England, and was one of 
 four (the others were Wilton, Shaftes- 
 bury, and St. Mary Winchester) 
 who ranked as baronesses. The state 
 maintained here was great; and the 
 annual value of tlie house at the dis- 
 solution was 1084/. 6s. 2id. (SjJeed). 
 The nuns seem to have fared not un- 
 comfortably. On the feasts of the As- 
 sumption and of St. ^dilberga, the 
 cellaress was bound to provide half 
 a goose for each lady ; and " a lyverey 
 of sowse at Martinmas, — a whole 
 hog's sowse to serve three ladies." 
 Among the abbesses was Mary, sister 
 of St. Thomas of Canterbury, said to 
 have been appointed by Henry II. 
 after the archbishop's murder, as an 
 atonement for the banishment of all 
 Becket's relatives. Eleanor, Duchess 
 of Gloucester, retired to Barking 
 Abbey after the murder of her 
 husband in 1397, and died here in 
 1399. 
 
 The only part of the building left 
 is the Fire-hell Gate, a Perp. gate- 
 tower, between the town and the 
 ch.-yd., whence the curfew-bell was 
 formerly rung. It has a large oct- 
 angular turret at one comer, and a 
 niche over the gateway. The prin- 
 cipal chamber was the chapel of the 
 Hcrly Rood ; and traces of a crucifix 
 may still be seen in relief on the wall. 
 The abbey ch. stood just within the 
 N. wall of the ch.-yd. 
 
 After the Conqueror had been 
 crowned at Westminster (Christmas, 
 lOGG), he retired to Barking, whilst 
 the fortifications, before couunenced 
 by him on tlie site of the present 
 Tower, were completing. Many Eng- 
 lisli swore fealty to him at Barking, 
 among whom, according to one writer 
 (William of Poitiers), were the North- 
 ern Earls, Eadwin and Morkere. At 
 Uphall, on the 1. bank of the Rodin g, 
 a short distance N. of Barking, are 
 some great earthworks, which, it has 
 been suggested (although probably 
 of Roman origin), may liave served 
 
Essex. Boute 1. — Dagenham — ItainliaM—-I*ur fleet. 
 
 as the Conqueror's camp. The form 
 of the entrenchment is not regular, 
 though tending to a square. It is 
 1792 yds. in circumference, and con- 
 tains an area of more than 48 acres. 
 N., E. and S. it is single trenched. 
 W., parallel to the Eoding, and a 
 short distance from it, is a double 
 trench and bank. At the N.W. 
 corner was an outlet to a fine spring 
 of water, guarded by an inner work, 
 and by a high keep or mound of 
 earth. No Eoman relics have been 
 found here. 
 
 [1 m. 1. is Easthury, a red-brick 
 Elizabethan house (built 1572), with 
 a turret stair in the rear and some 
 moulded chimney-shafts. Two in- 
 consistent traditions report, one that 
 the Powder Plot conspirators met 
 here, and that they hoped to have 
 witnessed, from the top of the great 
 tower, the destruction of the Houses 
 of Parliament ; the other, that Lord 
 Monteagle, to whom the warning 
 note was addressed, lived here. 
 
 2 m. 1. is Dagenham (Pop., in 1861, 
 2708). In the Ch. (restored in 1806) 
 is the brass of Sir Thomas Ursicyk, 
 recorder of London, Chief Baron of 
 the Exchequer (died 1470)— a good 
 specimen of the judicial costume — and 
 wife ; with 4 sons and 9 daughters, 
 the eldest a nun. The inscription 
 on the monument of Sir Richard 
 Alibon deserves notice. He was 
 '' advanced by Jas. II. to the rank of 
 a judge, though he was a Catholic."] 
 
 In the parish of Dagenham is a 
 large tract of land lying lower than 
 the bed of the river, and protected 
 from inundations by sea-walls, which 
 were anciently kept up and repaired 
 at the charge of the abbey of Bark- 
 ing. Repeated ruptures of the em- 
 bankments and consequent overflows 
 are recorded. In 1707, the Thames 
 burst through a dyke, and besides 
 sweeping away 120 acres, laid 1000 
 under water. After many costly 
 trials the landowners abandoned the 
 
 attempt to restore the dyke, and, 
 as the navigation of the river was 
 endangered, funds were raised for 
 the purpose under an act of parlia- 
 ment by a small tax upon vessels 
 entering the port of London. Cap- 
 tain Perry, an engineer, employed 
 by Peter the Great, in Russia, com- 
 pleted the task in 1723, after labour- 
 ing for five years, at a cost of nearly 
 42,500i!. Traces of the disaster re- 
 main in a large pool of 44 acres, 
 surrounded by 27 acres of reeds, re- 
 sorted to by anglers, who subscribe 
 for its preservation, and whose place 
 of resort is Dagenham Breach House. 
 Mrs. Fry had a pretty cottage on 
 tlie bank of this pool ; Miss Buxton 
 writes from " our singular retire- 
 ment, living out of doors on the 
 rich bank, which is overflowing with 
 grass and flowers, and watching the 
 hundreds of fine ships, which from 
 here seem to float among the fields ; 
 but when we climb the banks there 
 lies the river stretched out, its lovely 
 reaches glittering in the sun." 
 
 12 m. Rainham Stat, Inn : Pha3- 
 nix, where flys, &c., are to be ob- 
 tained. In the Ch., which is partly 
 massive Norm., are the brasses of a 
 civilian and wife, circ. 1500; the in- 
 scriptions lost. The ch. was given 
 by Richard de Lucy, Grand Justiciar 
 of England under Hen. II., to his 
 abbey of Lesnes in Kent. 
 
 15J m. Furfleet Stat. A village 
 on the N. bank of the Thames, having 
 extensive Lime-worlxs belonging to 
 W. H. Whitbread, Esq., where many 
 thousand tons of chalk are burnt 
 yearly and exj)ortcd. Here also is 
 a Government Powder Magazine, 
 capable of holding 60,000 ban-els, iu 
 five detached bomb-proof casemates. 
 
 \_Aveley, a pleasant village on a 
 height, may be visited from Purfleet, 
 (I5 m.) In the chancel of ihe parish 
 Ch., dedicated to St. Michael, is the 
 small brass, of Flemish workman- 
 ship, of Ralph de Knevynton. The 
 inscription records his death on 
 
Boute 1. — West and Graifs TJmrrock, Sect. I. 
 
 the Thursday before tlio Feast of St. 
 Nicholas, a.d„ 1370, ' litcra domini- 
 cali f." The brass is a good example 
 of armour. Ilemark the sleeves of 
 tlje haketon appearing at the wrists, 
 under the body armour, — and the 
 manner in wliich the belmet is at- 
 tached by chains to the breast, so 
 that the knight might recover it if 
 knocked off in the fray. In the same 
 manner the sword and dagger are 
 fastened to the girdle. 
 
 5 m. beyond Aveley is Belhus, Sir 
 T. Barret Lenhard, Bart. ; built by 
 John Barret in the reign of Henry 
 VIII., but new-fronted and otherwise 
 added to, though in a similar style 
 of architecture. It contains various 
 family portraits of the "Dacres of 
 the South" (among them Thomas 
 Dacre by Holbein, and Eichard 
 Leunard, Lord Dacre, said to be by 
 Vandyck) and a few works of old 
 masters — including portraits of Vil- 
 liers, Lord Grandison (Yandycli) ; 
 David Walter, Groom of the Bed- 
 chamber to Chas. II. (Lely); and 
 the Duchess of Cleveland (Lely). 
 Some of the rooms are hung with 
 rich old tapestry, and have ceilings 
 of carved oak. There is a suite that 
 Queen Elizabeth is said (with little 
 foundation) to have occupied on the 
 night before her visit to Tilbury. 
 The house stands in a fine deer-park. 
 Walpole says of it in 1754, "I never 
 saw a place, for v>'hich one did not 
 wish, so totally void of faults." 
 
 The moated house of Bretts in this 
 parish, now occupied by a farmer, 
 but formerly a seat of the Le Bret 
 family (one of the murderers of Abp. 
 Becket was a Le Bret), may be 
 worth inspecting by the antiquary, 
 although it has been modernized 
 externally.] 
 
 [In the Ch. of West- TJmrrock (1.) is 
 the brass of Humphrey Heies, died 
 1585 ; with IS lines full of puns on 
 the name Hay (s) — "fanium." The 
 ch. is said to have been built for 
 the convenience of pilgrims crossing 
 
 the river here on their way to Canter- 
 bury.] 
 
 19 J m. Grays-Thurrock Stat. A 
 small town on the 1. bank of the 
 Thames, 4 m. N.W. of Gravesend, 
 with a pier 400 feet long, at which 
 the Gravesend steamers touch five 
 times a day. It is named from the 
 family of (^ray, who were the owners 
 more than 300 years, the manor 
 having been granted to them by 
 Rich. I. in 1149. Belmont Castle, 
 surmounted by a round tower, is a 
 modern Gothic building, erected by 
 the late Zach. Button, Esq. The 
 geological features of Grays-Thur- 
 rock are very interesting. The bed 
 of ochreous gravel, forming the most 
 marked feature of the Thames valley 
 (it extends from above Maidenhead 
 to the sea, with a width varying 
 from 2 to 9 m.) is interstratified in 
 places with beds of sand, loam, and 
 clay. Good sections of brick earth, 
 loam, and gravel are exposed to view 
 in artificial excavations at Grays- 
 Thurrock. The strata are "pre- 
 cisely such as would be formed by 
 the silting up of an old river channel. 
 Among the mammalia found here 
 are ElepJias antiquus, Bhinoceros lep- 
 torliinus. Hippopotamus major, and 
 species of horse, bear, ox, and stag, 
 and among the accompanying shells, 
 Cyrena fluminalis, which is ex- 
 tremely abundant ; and Unio litto' 
 ralis, also in gi-eat numbers and 
 with valves united. This conspicuous 
 fresh-water mussel is no longer an 
 inhabitant of the British Isles, but 
 still lives in the Seine, and is still 
 more abundant in the Loire." Lyell, — 
 who suggests that the remains found 
 in the Thames basin, as in those of 
 the Somme and the Seine, indicate 
 that the countries now drained by 
 tliose rivers were, in the post-pleiocene 
 period, on the borders of two distinct 
 zoological provinces — one N., the 
 other S.— and that species belonging 
 to each fauna occasionally wandered 
 into the neighbouring domain. " The 
 
Essex. Boiite 1. — >S^. and N. Ochendon — Uiominster. 
 
 Eleplias antiqiius and its associated 
 BliiiiocerosleptorMmis may have pre- 
 ceded tlie mammoth and tichorine 
 rhinoceros in the valley of the Thames, 
 or both may have alternately pre- 
 vailed in the same aiea in the post- 
 pleiocene period." — Antiq. of Man, 
 p. 158. The chalk of Grays-Thur- 
 rock is also rich in fossils. 
 
 The ch. register records the wreck, 
 in 1697, of the tilt boat, plying be- 
 tween Gravesend and London. 56 
 persons were drowned. 
 
 [At Little TJiurrock, 1 m. from 
 Grays, are some of those remarkable 
 excavations in the chalk, known 
 as "Dane -pits," "Dane -holes," or 
 " Cimobeline's Gold - mines." See 
 post, East TUbury, for a longer notice 
 of them.3 
 
 [A good turnpike-road crosses the 
 country from Gray's Thurrock to 
 Komford (10 m). In the Ch. oiStifford 
 {Ih m.) are brasses for Ralph Perche- 
 hay, a Eector, c. 1375 (half effigy), 
 and a priest, c. 1480, in a shroud. 
 
 Some antiquities of stone and 
 bronze (stone hammers and bronze- 
 leafed sword) found in deepening the 
 bed of the Mardyke, a small stream 
 at Stifford, are figured in the 'Ar- 
 chseol. Journal,' 1869. Much Samian 
 ware and other Roman antiquities 
 have been discovered there, some of 
 which are in the Museum of Pract. 
 Geol. in Jermyn Street. 
 
 The Ch. of S. Ochendon, by which 
 the road passes, is one of 7 in Essex 
 which have round towers. It is of 
 Trans. -Norm, character with Perp. 
 additions ; and on the S. portal the 
 zigzag appears in combination with 
 the dog-tooth and E.E. foliage. 
 There is a brass, imperfect, but worth 
 notice, for Sir Inglcram Bruyn, 
 1400. At the E. end of the N. aisle 
 is a stately Elizabethan monument 
 for Sir Richard SaltonstaU, Kt., and 
 wife, 1601. He is in armour, and 
 wears the insignia of office as Lord 
 Mayor of London. He was patron of 
 
 the living, and lord of the manor of 
 Groves in the parish. TJie manor 
 of Bruyns belonged to the family of 
 that name. 
 
 The Ch. of N. Ochendon (which 
 lies about 2 m. N. of the road) is 
 Trans.-Norm., and interesting. There 
 is a small E. Eng. chapel on the N. 
 side of the chancel, with some good 
 remains of stained glass, and several 
 monuments for the family of Poyntz, 
 long lords of the manor, — the most 
 interesting of which are the brasses 
 of Sir William Poyntz and his wife, 
 circa 1502. The parish was anciently 
 called Ockendon " Septfountaynes," 
 from 7 springs famous for their heal- 
 ing qualities, which are now quite 
 forgotten. 
 
 At Upminster (7 m.), Dr. Derham 
 was rector from 1689 to 1735, and 
 resided at High House, near the ch. 
 The works by which he is principally 
 remembered are his 'Physico,' 'As- 
 tro,' and ' Christo- Theology.' High 
 House was also for some time the 
 residence of Lord Byron's friend, 
 Major Howard ; and it has been 
 said, but with small probability, 
 that some portion of ' Childe Harold ' 
 was written here. The manor of 
 Upminster was among Harold's grants 
 to Waltham Abbey ; and the Abbot's 
 tlowse (Up)mmster Hall), chiefly built 
 of timber, still remains. Upminster is 
 one of the pleasautest spots in Essex. 
 From the top of a windmill in the 
 centre of the parish a panorama is 
 commanded of 40 miles from E. to 
 W. The country is well wooded, and 
 dotted witli halls, villages, and home- 
 steads, — all encircled by a border of 
 low, distant hills. In the Churchy 
 which, with the exception of the 
 tower, has been recently rebuilt (not 
 without some of the usual conse- 
 quences to the monuments) there 
 are several brasses, all of them merely 
 inscriptions, except those to Nicholas 
 Wayte, Mercer of London, and Ellen 
 his wife (1545) ; and to Geerard 
 d'Ewes, grandfather of the well- 
 known antiquary, Sir Simonds d'Ewes, 
 
Boitte 1 . — HorncJmrch-^Tilhiirij . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 who put up this monument to the 
 memory of his ancestor. The ch. 
 contains many memorials of Lathams, 
 Esdailes, and Bramtills, all, like 
 Nicholas Wayte and Geerard d'E\A'es, 
 connected with Upminster by the 
 possession of property, but it con- 
 tains no memorial whatever of Dr. 
 Derham, It was in High House that 
 he made the exjieiiments which led 
 to the determination of the rate at 
 which sound travels, and it was 
 there also that he first saw (and was 
 the first person who did so) the sixth 
 and seventh satellites of Jui^iter. 
 Many of his observations were made 
 from the ch. tower. This neighbour- 
 hood is famous for cedars. One at 
 Hnih House, and another at Hoppy 
 Hall, a farm-house on the other side 
 of the same road, are magniticent 
 trees, and are justly regarded with 
 pride by the inhabitants of the 
 village. 
 
 At Hornchurch, 1 m. beyond Up- 
 minster, a hospital was founded by 
 Hen. II. for a prior and brethren, 
 and made subordinate to the famous 
 Hospital (Hospice) of St. Bernard in 
 Savoy. The revenues were seized 
 with those of other alien priories, 
 and were purchased by William of 
 Wykeham, who gave them to his new 
 foundation at Oxford. Hence the 
 greater part of the land here still 
 belongs to New College, The Priory 
 was known as the ' Horned Church 
 or Monastery' (Cornutum Monas- 
 terium) for what reason is not clear. 
 
 A sculptured representation in 
 stone, life-size, of the head and neck 
 of a bullock, with two real horns 
 inserted into the stone, in their proper 
 places, is built into the eastern wall 
 of the chancel, and forms the apex 
 of the gable end, occupying the 
 ordinary place of a cross, but far 
 more conspicuous. A bullock's head, 
 with the horns gilded, formed the 
 arms of the house, and may perhaps 
 have suggested the name "Cornu- 
 tum," by which the monastery was 
 knoAvn. 
 
 Hornchurch was famous for its 
 peltmongers or skinners, — and the 
 neighbouring market at Eomford 
 supplied such quantities of leathern 
 breeches that there was a saying 
 " Go to Eomford to be new bottomed." 
 
 For Komford, see Kte. 2.] 
 
 20 m. Tilbury Stat., from which 
 place there is a ferry to Gravesend. 
 
 The historical associations con- 
 nected with Tilbury Fort are among 
 the most interesting of the Thames. 
 Some kind of fortification here is 
 mentioned as early as 1402 ; but the 
 first block-house at Tilbury was 
 erected by Henry VIII. in 1539, 
 when the line of forts along the S.E. 
 coasts (including those at Deal and 
 Walmer) were also completed tmder 
 fear of an immediate invasion. At 
 the time of the Armada, Henry 
 VIII. 's fort was strengthened by 
 fortifications designed by the famous 
 engineer Gianibelli — the inventor of 
 the terrible " volcanoes" or fire-shii^s, 
 which all ; but destroyed Parma's 
 bridge across the Scheldt, during 
 the siege of Antwerp in 1585. (See 
 Motley's ' United Netherlands,' ch. 
 V.) Some traces of the camp in which 
 the English troops were assembled 
 under the Earl of Leicester are shown 
 near the ch, of AVest Tilbury, at some 
 little distance from the river, (But 
 see below). The " mighty army " of 
 which Hakluyt writes, however, con- 
 sisted, on the 4th of August (two 
 days before the arrival of the Armada 
 in Calais Eoads), of only 4000 men, 
 " unprovided with a barrel of beer or 
 a loaf of bread;" and Leicester was 
 only then beginning the formation of 
 his camp, (Motley, ch. xix.) It was 
 not until the 19th of August, by 
 which time the Armada had been 
 utterly dispersed, that the queen 
 made her " Bellona-like api^earance 
 in the camp at Tilbury, and addressed 
 her troops in that magnificent burst 
 of eloquence which has so often been 
 repeated." (The earthworks which 
 are usually pointed out as those of 
 
fissEil. 
 
 Itoute 1. — East Tilbury : Danepiiis 
 
 9 
 
 Elizabeth's camp, are far more pro- 
 bably Roman. There was certainly 
 a Ivoman fort in this neighbourhood; 
 and during the formation of the rly. 
 a Eoman and Saxon burying-ground 
 was discovered near the ch. Quan- 
 tities of urns were taken from it.) 
 
 After the appearance of the Dutch 
 fleet in the river, in 1667, it was 
 determined to erect a regular fortifi- 
 cation at Tilbury. This has been 
 altered and strengthened from time 
 to time, and it now forms one of the 
 main defences for the entrance of 
 the Thames. It is encompassed by 
 a deep, wide fosse, and on its ram- 
 l^arts are several formidable batteries 
 of heavy ordnance, mostly toward 
 the river. The bastions are the 
 largest in England. The garrison 
 have it in their power to lay the 
 whole surrounding level under water, 
 thus adding not a little to the strength 
 of their defences. Strangers are ad- 
 mitted to the fortification on applica- 
 tion to the resident governor. 
 
 East Tilbury at the bend of the 
 river, between Gravesend reach and 
 the Hope, is generally fixed on as 
 the ' Tillaburg ' selected by S. Cedd, 
 second bp. of the East Saxons, a.d. 
 654, as one of the places in which he 
 established a ch., with a body of 
 monastic followers. (Bede, H. E. iii. 
 22.) The other place was " Ythan- 
 ceaster," — the Roman Othona — no 
 doubt at Bradwell near Maldon (see 
 Rte. 4). It may well be doubted, 
 however, whether the site of this ch. 
 was not at JVest Tilbury, where the 
 Roman fort seems to have been. 
 {Chadwell, about 3 m. inland, on 
 the road between Gray's Thurrock 
 and East Tilbury (but nearer West 
 Tilbury), is named from a well dedi- 
 cated to St. Cedd, who is said to have 
 administered baptism at it. The well 
 lies at the foot of the hill, on the 
 marsh edge. There is also a ' Cedds 
 w'ell ' at Lastingham in Yorkshire, 
 where he founded a monastery. He 
 was the brother of Ceadda (St. Chad 
 
 of Lichfield). Chadwell Ch. is Norm.) 
 The lofty tower of East Tilbury Ch. 
 was battered down by the IJutch 
 when they sailed up the Thames and. 
 the Med way, and burnt Chatham, iu 
 1667. 
 
 Daniel Defoe, the author of ' Rc- 
 binson Crusoe,' set up a tile manu- 
 factory near Tilbury, and lived in a 
 house near the river. But in this 
 attempt, as in others, he proved that 
 he was fitter to succeed in fiction than 
 in real life. In this neighbourhood 
 is supposed to have been born Ger- 
 vase of Tilbury, a writer of the reign 
 of Henry II., best known by his 
 ' Otia Imperialia,' written for the 
 amusement of the Emperor Otlio IV. 
 
 Excavations called Dane-pits are 
 numerous in the chalk near East 
 Tilbury. A passage is said to lead 
 from these caverns to others resem- 
 bling them at Chadwell, near Little 
 Thurrock. The entrance is from 
 above, by narrow circular passages, 
 which widen below, and communi- 
 cate with numerous apartments, all 
 of regular forms. The size and dejDth 
 vary. It is uncertain for what pur- 
 pose these pits (which occur in various 
 localities throughout the chalk dis- 
 tricts on either side of the Thames) 
 were originally excavated, although 
 it is now generally believed that 
 they were made for the sake of the 
 chalk itself, which was largely ex- 
 ported at an early period. They are 
 certainly of great antiquity, since 
 British coins and remains of British 
 pottery have been found in some of 
 them. They may possibly have re- 
 ceived their present name of " Dane- 
 pits," " Dane-holes," from their hav- 
 ing served as hiding-places during 
 the Danish ravages. — (See Hdbk. of 
 Kent, Rte. 1, p. 17.) The best notice 
 of these Dane pits in Kent and Essex 
 will be found in Mr. Roach Smith's 
 ' Collectanea Antiqua,' vi., 243. One 
 examined in Hairyman's Wood, in 
 the parish of Tilbury, resembled in 
 out lino a sexfoiled flower. The shaft 
 was about 3 ft. iu diam. and So ft, 
 
 B 3 
 
ID 
 
 Boute 1. — Sianford-le-H'ojoe — S. Benfield. Sect. I. 
 
 deep. Mr. R. Smith points out a 
 passage in Pliny (X. H. xvii., c. 8.), 
 where, writing of the liner white 
 chalk (argentaria) used l)y silver- 
 suiitlis, he states that it was obtained 
 by means of pits sunk like wells, 
 with narrow mouths, to a depth of 
 100 ft., where they branch out like 
 the veins of mines. He adds, ' Hoc 
 maxime Britannia utitur.' 
 
 21 h m. Stanford-le-Hojpe Stat. — so 
 named from the stone l^ridge which 
 here crosses the little rivulet Hope, 
 formerly, no doubt, wide enough to 
 serve as a " liof " or haven. A sliort 
 branch line here turns off to the docks 
 of the Thames Haven Eailway Com- 
 pany, occuping an area of 1000 ft. by 
 9000, with a depth of 20 ft. Stam- 
 ford Ch., which calls for restora- 
 tion, has a good 14th-eenty. parclose, 
 Hassels, 1 m. E., is a fine old manor 
 house, once belonging to the Fether- 
 stouhaughs. 
 
 [From Borndon-on-the-IIiU (IJ m. 
 N.W. of Stanford-le-Hope) fine views 
 are commanded over the rich levels 
 of Essex, and along the Thames. 
 Saffron was formerly much grown at 
 Horndon. 
 
 A much finer and more celebrated 
 view is, however^ to be gained from 
 the Langdon Hills, 3 m. N. of Horn- 
 don. These hills form part of a low 
 range, running in a S.W. direction 
 from Langdon to S. Weald beyond 
 Brentwood. They form the highest 
 ground in the county except Dan- 
 bury. The view from them extends 
 quite to London, and commands the 
 Tliames as far as the mouth of the 
 Medway. Is is hardly as Morant 
 asserts *■ the grandest prospect in Eng- 
 land," but it is one of great beauty 
 and interest, and should not be 
 missed. The pedestrian may wallv 
 from the Stamford-lc-Hope stat. 
 
 Built on to the W. end of Lang- 
 don Ch. is a timber house of 3 
 stories, one room in each storey. A 
 brick chimney is built out of the N. 
 side. The date is quite unccrtai:i.] 
 
 In the Ch. of Cornngham (rt.) is 
 the hrass (half effigy) of Richard do 
 Beltoun, rector (1340). The ap- 
 parels encircle the wrists. The ch. 
 tower is Norman. 
 
 At Fohhing, 1 m. N.E. of Corring- 
 ham, Jack Straw's rebellion broke 
 out in 1381. Jack Straw himself 
 was a priest who assumed that name ; 
 and under his leadership the men of 
 Fobbing killed the collectors of the 
 pole-tax, placed their heads on pikes, 
 and set out on their march, gathering 
 strength as they went, until they 
 joined the main body of insurgents 
 under Wat Tyler. 
 
 32i m. Fitsea Stat. (In the ch. 
 of Bowers Gifford, 1§ m. E., is an 
 interesting brass for Sir John Gif- 
 ford, 1348 — the last of his family. 
 The ch. itself was barbarously rebuilt 
 about the year 1842.) 
 
 3oJ m. >S'oM^7i Benfleet Stat. It 
 was here that Hsesten the Dane, 
 during the 5 years (893-897) of 
 Danish Avar, towards the end of the 
 life of Alfred, constructed a " work," 
 from which he harried all the sur- 
 rounding country. This work was 
 stormed and taken in 894 by an 
 English force (Alfred himself had 
 gone to the relief of Exeter;, partly 
 consisting of the London townsmen. 
 The treasure and all that was within 
 the work was carried to London ; 
 and the Danish ships were either 
 burnt or carried off. (• Sax. Chron.' 
 ad ami. 894.) Some traces of the 
 "work" are perhaps still visible 
 round the S.W. side of a hill over- 
 looking the creek. 
 
 S. Benfleet Ch., well restored, con- 
 tains a window and memorial brass 
 to the Rev. J. A. Cook, who laid 
 down his life in visiting the sick 
 under epidemic fever, 1859, after 
 surviving extraordinary risks and 
 hardships during the cholera of 1854. 
 
 [Either from S. Benfleet Stat, or 
 from the next, Leigh, the cli. and 
 
Essex. 
 
 Boiite. 1. — Hadlcigh Church and Castle. 
 
 11 
 
 castle of Hadleigh may most con- 
 veniently be visited by the pedes- 
 trian. The distance from either stat. 
 is abont 3 m. The Ch., which has 
 been carefnlly restored by Mr. Street, 
 is Norm., and consists of a nave with 
 an apsidal chancel. The chancel 
 arch is lofty, and has on either side 
 a ronnd-headed recess, in which has 
 been an altar. The wall, either in 
 the E. E. or early Dec. period, has 
 been pierced with a quatrefoil, serv- 
 ing as a hagioscope. Some of the 
 nave windows are Perp. insertions; 
 and one is E. E., on the splay of 
 which is the iigm'e of an archbishop 
 wearing the pall ; and above, the 
 words " Beatus Tomas." (It wonld 
 seem that this figure must date be- 
 tween 1170, the year of Becket's 
 murder, and that of his formal 
 canonization, 1173 (?). The Ai'ch- 
 bishop has no aureole, and the word 
 "beatus" would hardly have been 
 used after canonization.) There are 
 traces of other wall paintings in the 
 heads of the opposite windows ; and 
 many more (among them an elabo- 
 rate representation of St. George and 
 the Dragon) were found dui'ing the 
 restoration, but perished on exposm-e 
 to the atmosphere. The moulding 
 roimd the interior of the doors and 
 windows is modern. The wooden 
 framework for supporting the low 
 spire at the W. end is characteristic 
 of Essex — rich in wood, but poor in 
 building stone — and should be 
 noticed. Hadleigh (with its ch.) was 
 a portion of the great Honour of 
 Kayleigh, and from the time of the 
 Conquest belonged, like Kayleigh, to 
 Suene and his descendants, until 
 Henry of Essex forfeited it with his 
 other lands (see Kayleigh, Kte. 5). 
 It remained in the hands of the Crown 
 until Hen. III. gave it to Hubert de 
 Burgh. 
 
 A road nearly opposite the ch. 
 leads to the Castle. "The ruin," 
 says Constable the artist (who made 
 it the subject of one of his best 
 pictures, which has been engraved), 
 
 " from its situation is vastly fine. It 
 commands a view of the Kent hills, 
 the Nore, and the N. Foreland, look- 
 ing many miles to sea." The site 
 well deserves a visit for the sake of 
 this view, and for the picturesque 
 accompaniments of the ruin, whicli 
 on the N. is closed in by broken 
 ground covered with brushwood and 
 coppice. South, the ground slopes 
 to the low shore of Canvey Island, 
 beyond which is the Thames. Con- 
 stable's picture, exhibited in 1829, 
 was illustrated in the Catalogue by the 
 lines from Thomson's ' Summer ' : — 
 
 " The desert joys, 
 Wildly, through all his melancholy bounds ; 
 Rude ruins glitter ; and the briny deep, 
 Seen from some pointed promontory's top, 
 Far to the blue horizon's utmost verge, 
 Restless, reflects a floating gleam." 
 
 The Castle was built by Hubert de 
 Burgh about the year 1231. There 
 was no keep ; but there were flank- 
 ing towers, the principal being at 
 the N.W. and S.W. corners. These 
 are in ruins, but enough remains to 
 show clearly their plan and con- 
 struction. They were about 60 ft. 
 high and of two stories, above a 
 dungeon or cellar in the base. The 
 entire structure was built of Kentish 
 ragstone (with a band of flint above 
 the base of each tower) cemented 
 with mortar of extraordinary hard- 
 ness and durability, containing a 
 large admixture of sea-shells. On 
 the N.E. and W. sides was a deep, 
 but not continuous ditch, now partly 
 filled up, and much overgrown. The 
 length of the court (ballium) from 
 E. to W. is 337 ft., and its extreme 
 width 180 ft. ; the area within the 
 walls comprising about an acre. 
 
 The Castle (with the whole manor) 
 which soon after its erection passed 
 into the hands of the Crown, was 
 assigned by Edward I. to his Queen 
 Margaret; and by Henry VIII. to 
 Anne of Cleves. It was probably 
 demolished about the middle of the 
 15th centy. ; and much of the stone 
 used in building Leigt Ch. is said, 
 
12 
 
 Boute 1. — Canvey Island — Leigh — Southend. Sect. I. 
 
 to have bceu quarried from Had- 
 leigli Castle. 
 
 The ivy with -which the ruins of 
 the castle are partly covered, de- 
 serves notice. The great stems, 
 rooted in the ground, were severed 
 many years shicc ; and the masses 
 of leafage now derive their whole 
 support from the walls to which they 
 cling, in tlie crevices of which their 
 " claws " have developed into true 
 roots. 
 
 [Canvey Island (perhaps the ko:vv- 
 i]vvos of Ptolemy), S. of Hadleigh, 
 contains 4000 acres of fertile land, 
 divided among eight parishes ; it was 
 reclaimed from the Thames, 1621, by 
 Joas Crappenburg, a Dutchman, who 
 settled here with some of his coun- 
 trymen, and received for his pains 
 one-third of the island. A great 
 deal of Eoman pottery has been 
 found here at ditterent times, but in 
 a fragmentary state; and is supposed 
 to have been washed np from the 
 Halstow pottery (Roman) on the 
 Medway. The ch. was rebuilt in 
 1849.] 
 
 39 m., Leigli Stat., a port for small 
 fishing craft, and now famous for 
 shrimps. At the time of the Con- 
 quest this place is said to have been 
 celebrated for its vineyards. The 
 Ch., dedicated to St. Clement (high 
 above the stat., 1.), is throughout 
 Perp., with a fine and lofty tower, 
 serving as a sea mark. There are 
 several small brasses : the oldest for 
 Eichard Haddok 1453. In the S. 
 chancel aisle is a mural tablet witli 
 bust of Eobert Salmon — "the great 
 instrument of God's glory and the 
 Commonwealth's good" — "'the re- 
 storer of navigation, almost lost, 
 (1614). Master of the Trinity Ho. 
 (1617), and the glory of it 24 
 years; Sheriff of London (1640)," 
 died 1641. Many naval heroes and 
 voyagers were born at Leigh; among 
 them Sir Kichard Haddock, temp. 
 Jas. II., Whittaker, and Andrew 
 Battel. 
 
 43| m. Southend Stat. Inns : 
 Royal Hotel, on the Terrace; good 
 and comfortable ; Ship, below it. 
 This is a quiet and far from un- 
 pleasing watering-place, frequented 
 in summer by a few Londoners, but 
 chiefiy by the inhabitants of the 
 inland parts of Essex. It consists 
 of a row of houses stretching along 
 the N. bank of the estuary of the 
 Thames, here thoroughly salt, and 
 opposite to Sheerness and the mouth 
 of the Medway. At the W. ex- 
 tremity, upon a bank or cliff 80 ft. 
 above the water, is the Terrace, com- 
 posed chiefly of lodging-houses, the 
 best in the place. The slope from it 
 down to the water-side is planted as 
 a shrubbery, and forms a pleasant 
 walk. Passengers to Southend by 
 water are landed on a wooden Pier 
 (built in 1838), 1| m. long, which 
 cost 42,000L, but was afterwards sold 
 to the Great Eastern Rly. Comjjany 
 for 17,000Z. The coast here is very 
 shallow, and the tide retires nearly 
 a mile from the shore at low water ; 
 for which reasons Southend is seen 
 to most advantage towards high 
 water, when the pier is an agreeable 
 promenade. Hitherto the pier has 
 been a losing concern. The wood- 
 work has suffered greatly from the 
 devastations of marine insects. The 
 attempt to protect the timber by 
 copper sheathing has failed, owing 
 to the worms penetrating between it 
 and the wood, and entirely destroy- 
 ing the pierhead in the course of 
 only three years. Recourse has been 
 had to chemical means. Saturating 
 the timber with kreosote, which is 
 said to check the boring of the in- 
 sects, seems to be the most eftectual 
 remedy. In some cases the piles 
 have been studded with broad- 
 headed nails. The new pierhead is 
 formed of 48 hollow cast-iron piles 
 and 20 fender piles. 
 
 Tlie town stretches along the shore 
 E. from the pier, in a line of shops 
 and small houses, inhabited by the 
 boatmen and fishermen who compose 
 
Essex. Boiite 1. — Southend— Prittlewell — Soutlichurch. V6 
 
 the mass of the population. South- 
 end is exceedingly healthy, especially 
 for children. There is so little rain 
 that it ranks among the driest places 
 in England. 
 
 On the beach are bathing ma- 
 chines. On the Terrace and at the 
 Ship Inn are Baths, a library, and 
 reading-room. The view from the 
 terrace extends across the Thames 
 to the hills of Kent — including Gad's 
 Hill, near Kochester, where Falstali" 
 put to Hight the rogues in buckram. 
 Gravesend is hidden by the Lower 
 Hope Point, but Windmill Plill 
 behind it rises into view. The chief 
 feature, however, is Father Thames 
 himself, perpetually enlivened with 
 passing sails, or obscured by the long 
 dusky pennons from the numerous 
 steamboats. 
 
 About 1 m. W. of the terrace, on 
 the shore, stands Crow Stone, a low 
 obelisk, marking the termination of 
 the jurisdiction of the Conservators 
 of the Thames. There is a broad, 
 well-kej)t terraced walk imder the 
 river bank as far as the Crow Stone ; 
 r..nd there are also walks on the banks 
 themselves, from which good views 
 over the river are commanded. 
 
 Inland the churches of Fritilewell 
 (of which parish Southend is a ham- 
 let) and Southchurch are worth visit- 
 ing, and the walk to thom is pleasant, 
 although the scenery of all this part 
 of Essex recalls the lines of the old 
 poet, — 
 
 " Vast plains and lowly cottages foiioiu, 
 Kounded about by the low waveiing sky." 
 
 Hadleigh Castle (6 m.) and all the 
 places already mentioned in this 
 route may easily be visited from 
 Southend; and an interesting ex- 
 cursion may be made to Shoebury- 
 ness. 
 
 (a) Fritilewell Church (2 J m.) is 
 Perp. with the exception of the 3 
 westernmost bays of the nave, whiclj 
 seem late Dec. The East window is 
 closed, the cieling has been lowered 
 (except in one bay W, of the choir 
 
 arch), and the church altogether is 
 in an unsatisfactory condition. The 
 tower is lofty and fine; and the 
 parapet of the nave, alternating in 
 squares of flint and stone-work, 
 deserves notice. The original carved 
 door remains in the S. porch, with a 
 stoup for holy water at its side. 
 Prittlewell Priory, about 1 m. from 
 the ch., was founded for Cluniac 
 monks by Kobert of Essex (temp. 
 Hen. IL), and assigned as a cell to 
 the Priory of Lewes. It was natu- 
 ralized (Lewes was alien) temp. 
 Ed. III. At the suppression it 
 was valued at 194Z. The site, 
 which was possessed by the family 
 of Scratton from the time of the 
 Civil War, till 1869, when they re- 
 moved into Devonshire, is pleasant ; 
 but the present house is for the 
 most part modern, and there are 
 few remains of the conventual build- 
 ings. 
 
 (6) Southchurch (about 1| m. by 
 the field walk, from Prittlewell) 
 belonged both church and manor to 
 the Benedictines of Christ Ch. Can- 
 terbury from a very early period 
 (circ. 824) imtil the dissolution. The 
 Cli., which has been restored, is small, 
 and consists only of nave (Norm.) 
 and Chancel { Early Dec), with the 
 wooden framework for the support of 
 a low tower at the W. end. The 
 piscina and the tomb recesses in the 
 chancel deserve notice. At the E. 
 end of the S. side of the nave (be- 
 tween the wall and the chancel arch) 
 is a ciu'ious double piscina of Xor- 
 man date. The old Essex family of 
 Asser (whose name recalls that of 
 King Alfred's biographer) were for 
 some time lords of this manor after 
 the dissolution. 
 
 (c) SJioehuryness is 3 m. from 
 Southend along the shore, with 
 good walking all the way : (a large 
 coastguard stat. is passed about 1 m. 
 from Shoebury), and 5 m. by Ihe 
 road. 
 
i4 
 
 Moute 8. — Shoehuryness. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 The earliest mention of Shoebury 
 {Sceohyruj — the " byrig " or town in 
 the shaw or Avood — there is still 
 "wood here) occurs in the Sax. Chron. 
 ad ann. 894, where it is said that 
 Hsesten and the "host" that had 
 been driven from Benfleet (see 
 Benfleet, ante) met here, and 
 *' wrought a work." A consider- 
 able earthwork remains on the 
 fartlier side of the Ness, towards 
 "VVakering, which may possibly be 
 that raised by the famous Viking. 
 The country is full of Danish recol- 
 lections. 
 
 The chief interest at Shoebury, 
 however, is to be found in the more 
 modern " works " of the Eoyal 
 Artillery, with their arrangements 
 for experiments in defence and 
 attack. The ground occupied by the 
 Government consists altogether of 
 about 1 square mile, and lies on the 
 rt. side of the road from Southend, at 
 the point of the Ness, whence the 
 low laud trends N.E. It was first 
 occupied a short time before the 
 Crimean War. during which trooj)S 
 were embarked from this place, after 
 they had been trained here for some 
 time in the difficulties of "camping 
 out" with their horses. But since 1854 
 the establishment has been greatly 
 developed. Excellent barracks, and 
 a hideous ch. have been built. There 
 is a large trainmg ground under 
 cover, with guns for handling, and 
 schools in wliich the most recently 
 invented projectiles, rockets, &c., may 
 be seen and studied. About 500 
 Artillerymen are always stationed 
 here; and young Artillery officers 
 go through certain courses at Shoe- 
 bury, where instruction is afforded 
 whicii is not to be obtained else- 
 where. 
 
 The chief " sights " at Shoehury- 
 ness are the targets arranged close 
 "within the line of the shoredyke. 
 Guns are also planted on the dyke 
 from which practice with shot and 
 shell is made at targets planted in 
 the sands at various distances, from 
 
 1000 to 7000 yards, the great ad- 
 vantage being that the shot plung- 
 ing into the sands can be recovered 
 at low water, and when cleaned is 
 again ready for use. The best place 
 for seeing this practice, and for 
 watching the effect of shell on the 
 water, is from the shore below 
 what are called the "huts," at the 
 end of the barracks. The days of 
 practice are generally known at 
 Southend. 
 
 The field days in the main 
 ground, when experiments of great 
 national importance are made, are 
 of course full of interest and excite- 
 ment. Admission at such times, 
 however, is only to be obtained by 
 the privileged few. But the targets 
 and erections within the dyke may 
 be seen whenever no actual practice 
 is in hand, and the visitor will find 
 an Artillery sergeant an excellent 
 and intelligent guide. This ground 
 at Shoehuryness has already become 
 invested with almost historical in- 
 terest. The various guns, — Arm- 
 strong's, Wliitworth's, and others, — 
 have here first been tried, and 
 brought into competition with each 
 other; and the capabilities of iron 
 plating, as a means of defence both 
 by sea and land, have from time to 
 time been thoroughly proved Jiere, 
 with results which must entirely 
 change the character of our forti- 
 fications. Targets may be seen, 
 plated with iron of various thick- 
 nesses — some riddled with shot — 
 others with shot of difterent sizes 
 still embedded in them. A fort 
 built after the old fashion, with 
 massive granite blocks and brick, 
 is allowed to remain for the sake of 
 showing the effect of modern guns 
 on such structures. It took a con- 
 siderable time to erect this fort, and 
 it was knocked to pieces in half-an- 
 hour. Captain Moncreifl''s admir- 
 able "barl)i'tte'' carriage — by means 
 of which the gun, like the rifleman, 
 rises up above the parajiet to fire, 
 and retires behind it to load — waa 
 
i^SSEX. 
 
 itoute 2. — London to I;yswich. 
 
 16 
 
 first tried and (1869) approved at 
 Shoeburyness. 
 
 The largest gun on the battery 
 here is of nearly 24 tons, and is 
 moveable on the principle of the 
 guns in a turret ship. The frame- 
 work so conspicuous from the road 
 is that of the shears, which can lift 
 50 tons. 
 
 South Shoehiry Church, I. of the 
 road from Southend, has Norm, and 
 Dec. portions. 
 
 There are Steamers from Southend 
 to Gravesend (18 m.) and to London 
 5 times a-day in summer — once at 
 other seasons. 
 
 [For the country N. of Southend, 
 including Eayleigh and Eochford, 
 see Ete. 5.J 
 
 EOUTE 2. 
 
 LONDON TO IPSWICH (eAIl). 
 
 Great Eastern Stat. 
 
 From the Bishopsgate Stat. — very 
 inconveniently situated, and very 
 remote from the W. end of London — 
 the line passes on a viaduct of 160 
 arches for 1^ m. through Bethnal 
 Green, level with the red-tiled roofs 
 of a multitude of small houses, 
 chiefly inhabited by weavers, and 
 provided with wide windows. In 
 these ill-drained, dingy dwellings, 
 in tlie midst of smoke and dust, 
 satins are woven of the costliest 
 material, and the most graceful and 
 delicate patterns and colours. Here 
 
 also are the Almshouses of the 
 Trinity Board for aged mariners and 
 tlieir widows. A few of the viaduct 
 arches are let as warehouses, and 
 one is fitted up as a school. A 
 branch rly. has been formed from 
 Barking road to the E. In. Docks, 
 crossing the Lea by a swing bridge. 
 
 Mile End Stat., a suburb over 
 which the railway passes, is so called 
 because distant I m. from White- 
 chapel Church, the old standard mea- 
 suring point for the eastern roads. 
 Et. the North Woolwich Ely. 
 branches off". 
 
 4 or 5 branches of the Lea Elver, 
 dividing Middlesex from Essex, are 
 crossed at Fairfield, not far from (1.) 
 the reservoirs of the E. London 
 Waterworks, which are fed from the 
 New Eiver ; and beyond is the 
 
 3§ m. Stratford Stat, in Angel 
 Lane. The station and other build- 
 ings erected here by the Eailway 
 Company cost nearly half a million. 
 The engine factory occupies nearly 
 20 acres, and the engine room alone 
 has an area of 1| acre. About lOOU 
 men are employed by the company. 
 
 From this point the line to Cam- 
 bridge and Norwich (Ete. 11), and 
 the line to Loughton and Ongar 
 (Ete. 10), diverge 1. The line to 
 Southend (Ete. 1) is seen rt. 
 
 llford House of Correction jiist 
 precedes, at 
 
 7 m. llford Stat. llford was once 
 famous for its great spoon, holding 
 above a quart. In Kemp's 'Nine 
 Days' Wonder' a 'Daunce from 
 London to Norwich,' he says that at 
 llford he was "offered carowses in 
 the great spoone .... but being 
 afraid of the olde proverb, ' he had 
 need of a long spoone that eats with 
 the devil,' I soberlie gave my boone 
 companions the slip." 
 
 Opposite the rly. stat., and on the 
 S. side of High-st., is situated >S'^. 
 Mary's Uospital, an institution of 
 venerable antiquity. It was founded 
 l)y Adeliza, Abbess of Barking, in 
 
u 
 
 Boute 2. — tlford — Bomford. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 the reign of Stephen, for a prior, a 
 wardeu or master, two priests, and 
 tliirteen lepers. The buildings — a 
 chapel, six cottages for six poor men, 
 and a chaplain's residence — occupy 
 three sides of a small quadrangle. 
 The chapel is 90 ft. long, and 16 ft. 
 wide, and afibrds accommodation for 
 one hundred people. It bears the 
 marks of some alterations, but its 
 massive walls and general style seem 
 to belong to the period of the founda- 
 tion of the institution. The Hospital 
 continued to be a house of lepers for 
 more than two hundred years, for 
 there is extant a set of statutes 
 Avhieh were drawn up for this esta- 
 blishment in A.D, 134:6, by Kalph 
 Stratford, Bishop of London, enact- 
 ing, among other things, that the 
 original number of thirteen lepers 
 should be kept up, and that each one 
 of these, at the time of his admission, 
 should take an oath of obedience to 
 the Abbess of Barking. 
 
 At the Dissolution the Hosj)ital 
 was seized by the Crown. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth made a grant of 
 the site and revenues to Thomas 
 Fanshaw and his heirs, with the 
 proviso that they should appoint a 
 master to keep the Chapel in repair, 
 that they should nominate and main- 
 tain a chaplain to perform divine 
 service, that they should provide 
 apartments for six paupers, and pay 
 them each the annual sum of 2?. 5s. 
 The Hos]3ital estates thus charged, 
 after passing through various hands, 
 were purchased in a.d. 1739 by the 
 Gascoign family, from whom they 
 have descended to the Marquis of 
 Salisbury, the present Master. 
 
 In Little Ilford Ch. (U m. S. W. 
 from Ilford Stat.) is the Lrnss of 
 Thomas Heron, son and heir of Sir 
 John Heron, private treasurer of the 
 king, d. 1517, aged 14. He is por- 
 trayed as a schoolboy, with penner 
 and inkhorn suspended at his girdle. 
 (Compare the brass of an Eton 
 scholar, 1512, in Wyrardisbuvy ch., 
 
 Bucks, and tliatof a Winchester boy, 
 1420, at Headborne Worthy, Hants). 
 
 [From Ilford to BarUng (Rte. 1.) 
 the distance is 2 m. ; Wanstead is 2 
 m. N.W. ; there is a pleasant walk 
 by the Roding thither. But Wan- 
 stead is more easily reached from 
 the Snaresbrook Stat, on the line to 
 Ongar (Rte. 10).] 
 
 Close N. of Ilford is Valentines 
 (C. T. Holcombe, Esq.) containing 
 some very tine carving by Gibbons. 
 The house was built by James Chad- 
 wick, son-in-law of Archbishop Til- 
 lotson, who was frequently here. A 
 walk in the grounds is still known 
 as the " Bishop's walk." Here, but 
 in very indifferent condition, is the 
 parent vine, planted in 1751, of the 
 celebrated tree at Hampton Court. 
 
 12 m. Romford Stat. (Inn : White 
 Hart). A town on the Rom (a small 
 tributary of the Thames — A. S. 
 r»m = broad?) Pop. in 1861, 6604 : 
 famous for its Wednesday market for 
 Essex calves, swine, and cattle. 
 
 In the Ch. of the Virgin and St. g 
 Edward the Confessor, rebuilt in 
 1849 at a cost of 7000?., was the 
 monmnent and effigies of Sir An- 
 thony Cooke of Gidea Hall (tutor to 
 Edw. VI.), and his wife, Ann, 
 daughter to Sir Wm. Fitz- William 
 of Milton. Of their 4 daughters, 
 the most learned and accomplished 
 w^omen of a learned age, Mildred 
 was second wife to Sir Wm. Cecil, 
 Lord Burleigh ; Ann married Sir 
 Nicholas Bacon, Lord Keeper, and 
 was mother of the great Lord Veru- 
 1am; Elizabeth married, first, Sir 
 Thomas Hobby of Bisham, and, 
 secondly, John Lord Russell ; and 
 Katherine married Sir Henry Kille- 
 grew. They are said to have written 
 the Latin epitaphs on their father's 
 tomb. 
 
 The old Gidea Hall, commenced 
 by Sir Th. Cooke, who died 1478, 
 and completed by Sir Anthony— (iu 
 
Essex. 
 
 Route 2. — Havenng-atte-Bowe}*. 
 
 17 
 
 it he entertained Elizabeth in 1568) 
 — is pulled down. Mary de Medicis, 
 mother of the Queen Henrietta 
 Maria, lodged at Gidea Hall the 
 ni£:ht before her arrival in London 
 (1638). The King had met her at 
 Chelmsford, and passed the night 
 at Havering. The present Gidea 
 Hall, a square brick house, 1 m. E. 
 of Eomford, was built 1720. 
 
 Francis Quarles, author of the 
 * Emblems,' was born at Stewards, 
 an old manor-house near Eomford, 
 1592. 
 
 There is a coach daily (in the 
 afternoon) from Eomford to Gorbets 
 Tey (4J m,) by Hornchurch and 
 Upminster (see Ete. 1). 
 
 [About 3 m. N. from Eomford 
 is Havering-atte-Bower. " The en- 
 chantment of antique appellations," 
 says Walj^ole, " has consecrated a 
 pleasing idea of a royal residence, 
 of which we now regret the extinc- 
 tion. Havering-at-the-Bower, the 
 jointure of so many dowager-queens, 
 conveys to us the notion of a 
 romantic scene." Even now tlie 
 epithet is applicable to this prettily- 
 wooded hamlet. (Havering, accord- 
 ing to one tradition, was so called 
 either because it " had " in its ch. 
 as a relic, the " ring " which the Con- 
 fessor bestowed on St. John in the 
 form of a pilgrim, and which St. John 
 afterwards returned to him in token 
 of his approaching death— or because 
 King Edward was at his hunting 
 lodge of •' the Bower " when the pil- 
 grims brought him back this ring. 
 For the tirst story there is certainly 
 no foundation. In the ,' Golden 
 Legend ' it is asserted that the ring 
 was given by the king to St. John 
 at Clavering, by which church he 
 chanced to be riding whilst it was 
 " in hallowing,'' the dedication being 
 to St. John the Evangelist. (Cla- 
 vering, which gives name to the 
 hundred, is in N.AV. Essex, — see 
 Ete. 11). In both instances, the 
 older names have brought about the 
 
 localization of the story, —the " ing " 
 termination being, no doubt, the 
 Saxon word so constantly occurring 
 in this part of Essex (Margarettmr/, 
 Mouutnessmr/, &c.); and signifying 
 a meadow. Pickering in Yorkshire, 
 in the same way, has had attached 
 to it the legend of a ring belonging 
 to a British king, which fell into the 
 river, and was restored by a pike. 
 (For the whole story of the Con- 
 fessor's ring, see Stanley's 'West- 
 minster Abbey,' and a paper by 
 Edmund Waterton in the ' Archseol. 
 Journ.,' vol. xxi.) The "Liberty" 
 of Havering was a very ancient 
 royal demesne, and Edward the Con- 
 fessor had a residence here, of 
 which traces in certain mounds are 
 said to remain near the church; 
 chosen, says tradition, " because soli- 
 tary, shrouded in woods, and fitted 
 for devotion ; " more really, perhaps, 
 because in the heart of the Essex 
 forests, abounding in game, the pur- 
 suit of which was the favourite 
 amusement of the Confessor. Hero 
 the pious king, whose even-song 
 was disturbed by the choir of night- 
 ingales, prayed for, and (who shall 
 gainsay the legend ?) obtained their 
 removal. It is still asserted, in spite 
 of constant evidence to the contrary, 
 that nightingales never sing within 
 the bounds of the park. A royal 
 " hunting lodge " remained at Have- 
 ring until after the Civil War. 
 Edward III. retired here after the 
 Christmas feast at Westminster, 
 1376, — when he formally invested 
 the young prince, afterwards Eichard 
 II., with the succession to the crown. 
 He never again appeared in public : 
 removed from Havering to Sliene 
 before February ; and died at Sliene, 
 June 21, 1377, aged 66,— in the 50th 
 year of his reign. From Haver- 
 ing Eichard II. rode to Fleshy, to 
 entrap his uncle of Gloucester to 
 his death (see Ete. 10). Bower 
 House (E. F. Matthews, Esq.) stands 
 nearly on the site of the palace. 
 The srround is hidi, and there are 
 
18 
 
 Boute 2. — S. Weald — Brenhcood. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 extensive and beautiful views, in- 
 cluding reaches of the river Thames. 
 
 " The Liberty " extends over 
 16,000 acres, and enjoys a separate 
 civil and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. 
 The Fm% of about 1000 acres, is 
 still crown land, but has long been 
 divided and let on lease. The 
 steward or chief forester of Essex 
 (an office held at different times by 
 the Clares and the De Veres) was 
 always the keeper of the palace and 
 park. 
 
 Havering, as Walpole asserts, was 
 usually made part of the queen's 
 jointure; and the queen had a 
 palace here distinct from that of her 
 husband. This was at Pyrgo, not 
 far from the village on the north. 
 Joanna of Navarre, widow of Henry 
 IV. died at Pyrgo in 1437.] 
 
 Beyond Romford Station, on 1., is 
 the site, as is thought, of the Celto- 
 Roman Durolitum. 
 
 The country now ceases to be a 
 mere fiat. 15 m. appears Dagenham 
 (pron. Dagnam) Parle (Sir R. D. 
 Neave, Bart.) ; and at 19 m. are seen 
 1. the woods of S. Weald Hall (C. 
 T. Tower, Esq.), a beautiful spot, 
 abounding in fine oaks, hornbeams, 
 thorns, and other trees ; and enlivened 
 by herds of deer. Cashmere goats, 
 and flocks of sheep. In the house 
 (of the 16th cent., but with a ' classic " 
 front) are some good pictures, includ- 
 ing in the hall, a fine Rubens, the port 
 of Baise, by Castro, and portraits of 
 Charles II. and James II. Here is 
 also a bust of the first Napoleon by 
 Canova, which was given by Admiral 
 Tower to Earl St. Vincent, and re- 
 turned by Lady Jervis after tlie 
 Earl's death. In the North Draicing 
 Room is a fine specimen of tapestry 
 by Klein, who made the tapestiy for 
 the Vatican. Here also is a veiy 
 fine Titian, for which 2000 guineas 
 have been offered and refused ; and 
 pictures assigned to Raftaelle, Coreg- 
 gio, Vandyck, Ruysdael and Wou- 
 vcrmans. 
 
 The Church of S. Weald is pic- 
 turesque and worth a visit. Note 
 the E.E. arcade, the 14tli cent, lich- 
 gate, and the curious double-light 
 low side window in the chancel. (It 
 seems probable that before the in- 
 troduction of " sanctus " bell-cots, 
 the sanctus bell was rung from these 
 low side windows, so as to warn 
 the villagers of the consecration. 
 Such low windows are usually on 
 the side of the eh, nearest to the 
 village). The tower is good Perp., 
 and stands on a hill well clothed 
 vfith trees, and commanding fine 
 views. 
 
 f m. from S. Weald is Rochetts 
 (0. E. Coope, Esq,), a handsome 
 house with lawn and gardens, and 
 an extensive view. Here lived and 
 died, 1823, Adm. Earl St. Vincent ; 
 and here is preserved, with his por- 
 trait, a tri-coloui- flag, taken by Capt. 
 Palmer from the French frigate, 
 L'EtoHe, in 1814. 
 
 17| m. Brentwood Stat. {Inn: 
 White Hart), Pop. 2811. This 
 town is on the highway to Chelms- 
 ford and Bury, and before the rail- 
 way was made, was traversed by 40 
 coaches daily. In the High-street, 
 south side, is the old Assize-house, 
 Elizabethan, with fine ornamental 
 gables and bargeboard. It is now a 
 butcher's shop, but is kept in repair 
 by the town. The old Perp. Ch. 
 near it, superseded by one built iu 
 1835, is now a school. (In the old 
 ch. is a large window of the 16th 
 cent, with brick tracery.) The late 
 Lord Petre, in 1837, built here a 
 R. C. Chapel near the large elm-tree 
 before which Hunter, a youth of 
 only 20 years, was burned by Bp. 
 Bonner for denying the doctrine of 
 transubstantiation. He met his end 
 with courage. This chapel is now 
 disused, and a much larger one, ad- 
 joining it, was opened in 1861. The 
 Free Grammar School, of red brick, 
 was founded, in 1537, by Sir Anth. 
 Browne. 
 
Essex. 
 
 Boiite 2. — Thovnchn Halt — Sheffield. 
 
 19 
 
 The Brentwood station stands at 
 the commencement of a stupendous 
 cutting, 60 ft. deep, the contents of 
 which lie about in unseemly heaps 
 happily called " spoil." Tiie very 
 wet gravel beds caused great trouble 
 and outlay, but are now by careful 
 drainage retained in their place. 
 
 [If m. S. from the stat. is Thorn- 
 don Hall (Lord Petre). The park is 
 well timbered, and entered by an 
 avenue from Brentwood. The house, 
 by Payne, is of white brick. The 
 centre has a Corinthian portico of 6 
 columns, and is connected by cir- 
 cular corridors with the wings. The 
 hall is 40 ft. square, and the great 
 saloon, unfinished, 60 by 30 ft. The 
 chapel is in the right wing. Here, 
 among other pictures, is a portrait 
 of the last Earl of Derwentwater (of 
 whose family Lord Petre is the re- 
 presentative); of Thomas, 3rd Duke 
 of Norfolk, and of Sir Wm. Petre, 
 both by Holbein: a fine bust of 
 Charles J. Fox ; and copies of Titian's 
 Cornaro family, and Holbein's family 
 of Sir Thomas More. In the lower 
 library are some fine illuminated ser- 
 vice books. The garments worn by the 
 Earl of Derwentwater on the scafibld 
 are also preserved here. A piece of 
 serge that covered the block, stiff 
 with blood, has the mark of the axe 
 in it. The house and park command 
 a fine view over the Thames. The 
 property passed to the Petre family 
 in tlie reign of Elizabeth, when they 
 abandoned their ancestral home of 
 Ingatestone Hall. 
 
 In the Ch. of Ingrave, on the E. 
 side of the Park, are the brasses of 
 Margaret Fitz-Lewis (1457), and of 
 John Fitz-Lewis and 4 wives, circ. 
 1500. The present ch. was built in 
 1734. 
 
 2 m, S, of Thomdon Hall, at War- 
 ley Common, there was a camp during 
 the revolutionary war. The view 
 from this spot is very fine. At Little 
 Warley were the barracks of the E. I. 
 Company's recruiting establishment, 
 
 purchased by the Government in 
 1842 for 17,000L, and now occupied 
 by a depot of the Royal Artillery. 
 
 Tlie County Lunatic Asylum stands 
 on the brow of a hill between Brent- 
 wood and Warley Barracks, It is a 
 large Tudor building, completed in 
 1853, at a cost of 89,557?. 
 
 The Petre and Tyrrell families have 
 monuments at E. Thomdon. 
 
 Heron Hall, a fine old brick 
 mansion now destroyed, except only 
 2 towers, was the seat of the 
 Tyrrels.] 
 
 From Brentwood Stat, the rly, 
 runs for 7 m. through Lord Petre's 
 property. The company paid for the 
 land thus occupied a sum exceeding 
 120,000Z. 
 
 19 m. 1, Shenfield. The Ch., dedi- 
 cated to the Blessed Virgin, dates from 
 the 13tli cent. It has been greatly 
 maltreated, but still well deserves 
 notice. The main arcade is of wood. 
 " The clustered columns which sup- 
 port the ponderous roof, and which 
 were inserted in the 15th cent, when 
 the N. wall was removed, form one 
 of the most remarkable ieatures in 
 the ch. The total length supported 
 in this way is 47 ft., divided into five 
 bays. , . . All the columns have 
 moulded capitals and bases hewn out 
 of solid oak trees, of gigantic growth 
 and wonderful soundness. The 
 foundations are of brick, 2 courses 
 in height.' — Buckler. The arches 
 probably had pierced spandrils. All 
 were coloured, and the efiect must 
 have been gorgeous. The unique 
 design of this arcade was ruthlessly 
 marred some years ago. There is a 
 long wooden S, porch, and a wooden 
 tower and spire, seen from the rly., 
 which just afterwards crosses the 
 Southend road. 
 
 [2 m, beyond Shenfield, rt. of the 
 rly., is the Ch. of Mountnessing. 
 (Mounteney's 'J«gf' (A, S.) = pas- 
 ture or meadow. The Mounteneys 
 were long the proprietors here) — of 
 
20 
 
 Houte 2. — Ingatestone. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 rude Dec. character. The caps, of its 
 massive circular piers deserve notice, 
 especially one which displays a 
 human face liaving the mouth fet- 
 tered by a bridle — perhaps an illus- 
 tration of the ancient i^unishment of 
 scolds. A fossil rib-bone, measuring 
 more than 4 ft., called " the giant's 
 bone," but no doubt that of an ele- 
 phant or mammoth, has long been 
 preserved in this ch. The bell-cot (of 
 tbe 15th cent.) is built up from the 
 ground with a framework of oak tim- 
 ber, of very great girth. The arrange- 
 ment is curious, and the strength and 
 compactucas of the timber-work sur- 
 prising. 
 
 The ch. of Montnessing was at- 
 tached to Tliohy Priory (so named 
 from its first j^rior — Tobias) a house 
 of Augustinian canons founded about 
 the year 1151 by Michael de Capra 
 and his wife Eoesia. It stood in 
 the adjoining village, and much of it 
 has been worked into the present 
 priory (T. Helme, Esq.). A portion 
 of the priory ch. (S. wall of nave and 
 chancel) remains, and is of tbe same 
 date and character as the parish 
 ch. of Mountnessing. The refectory 
 exists almost entire, although its 
 ancient character is concealed by a 
 plaster ceiling and sash windows. 
 Thoby was one of the smaller reli- 
 gious houses surrendered to Wolsey 
 in 1525 for the establishment of his 
 proposed college at Ipswich.] 
 
 23^ m. Ingatestone Stat. (Ing^at- 
 Stone — the pasture at the stone — 
 probably an ancient milliary stone 
 on the Roman road.) It must be 
 remembered that the rly., like the 
 old high road, follows nearly the 
 line of a Eoman road running from 
 Londinium to Camulodunum (Col- 
 chester), and thence into Suffolk and 
 Norfolk). Inn : New Spread Eagle. 
 The town is small, and has been 
 much injured by the rly. 
 
 The Church (dedicated to the 
 Blessed Virgin) has a fine brick 
 tower (15th cent.) of 4 stories. (Re- 
 
 mark the brick tracery in the window 
 over the door.) The nave dates from 
 early in the 14th cent. The ch. has 
 been lately restored, and a very 
 curious fresco, discovered during the 
 restoration on the N. side of the 
 nave, has unhappily been again 
 covered witli plaster. It reiDresented 
 the seven deadly sins — in the form 
 of a w'heel in 7 compartments, each 
 occupied by an illustration. The 
 subject was a favourite with medijeval 
 painters, but was generally shown as 
 a tree with 7 branches. Only one 
 other example, at Arundel in Sussex, 
 in the form of a wheel, is known. 
 There also is a representation of the 7 
 virtues. 
 
 Between the chancel and the S. 
 chapel is the monument of the v\'ell- 
 known Sir William Petre — tlie first 
 Lord Petre — who, " made of the wil- 
 low and not of the oak," managed to 
 accommodate his loyalty and his 
 religion to the various changes under 
 Hen. VIIL, Edward VI., Mary, and 
 Elizabeth. He obtained from Hen, 
 VIII. a gift of this manor, which up 
 to the Dissolution had belonged to 
 the nuns of Barking. Numerous 
 other abbey lands and manors fell to 
 his share ; and, wise in his genera- 
 tion, he procured in 1555, during the 
 reign of Mary, a bull from Pope Paul 
 IV., confirming these several spoils 
 to himself and his heirs. Sir William 
 Petre was a considerable benefactor 
 to Exeter College, Oxford ; and his 
 daughter Dorothy, who married 
 Nicholas Wadham, of Merrifield, in 
 Somersetshire, was co-founder "vvith 
 her husband, of the college in the 
 same university which bears their 
 name. In the S. chapel is a costly 
 monument for Robert, youngest son 
 of Sir W. Petre— who died 1593,— 
 and in the N. chapel, a monument for 
 John Lord Petre and his wife. 
 
 1 m. 1. Ingatestone Hall, built by 
 Sir W. Petre, was the seat of the 
 Petres before they settled at Thorn- 
 don. Up to that time it had been a 
 
Essex. 
 
 Boufe 2. — Ingatestoue — Margarettlng. 
 
 21 
 
 grange belonging tbe nuns of Bark- 
 ing. It is a venerable irregular 
 Eiizabetlian pile, with some old gar- 
 dens and fisli-ponds attached. The 
 house was built by Sir W. Petre, and 
 consisted of two courts. The outer 
 court is nearly destroyed, and only 3 
 sides of the inner remain. At the 
 S.E. corner is a very picturesque 
 staircase turret. The house is now 
 inhabited by some of Lord Petre' s 
 tenants, and a priest who officiates in 
 the chapel. One of the rooms con- 
 tains some tapestry (possibly English 
 work of the IGth cent.) representing 
 the Espousals of the Virgin, and the 
 Adoration of the Magi, A priest's 
 "hiding-place" was discovered in 
 one of the projections of the S, 
 front in 1855. In it was a chest for 
 vestments and altar furniture. 
 
 The 12 almshouses, founded by Sir 
 "NVm. Petre, 1557, and removed for 
 the rly., are replaced by modern 
 Gothic buildings of red and white 
 brick, on the London-road, applied 
 to the same use. 
 
 About 1 m. 1. stands " The Hyde" 
 Edgar Disney, Esq., formerly be- 
 longing to T. Brand Hollis, Esq. Its 
 hall was designed by Sir Wm. 
 Chambers, and is described in tlie 
 ' Museum Disneianum,' 1846-7. 
 
 A portion of the collection of 
 antique marl)les, belonging to the 
 late Mr. Disney, was presented by 
 him in 1850 to the University of 
 Cambridge, where he also endowed 
 a chair of archaeology. Some im- 
 portant pictures were also presented. 
 (See Cambridge, Kte. 1. — The Fitz- 
 ■icilliam Museum) A few good pic- 
 tures and antiques however still re- 
 main at the Hyde. 
 
 24 m. is the Church of Maryaret- 
 tiiig (St. Margaret's ing, or meadow, 
 the ch. is dedicated to her), whicli 
 the archaeologist should visit. The 
 nave is Dec. ; the chancel was ap- 
 imrently rebuilt, temp. Henry YII. 
 The N. and S. porches, of wood, de- 
 serve notice; and there is a good 
 ojDen roof over both nave and chancel. 
 
 The tower and spire are entirely of 
 timber. "The interior is composed 
 of noble balks of oak, darkened by 
 age, yet undecayed ; these are ar- 
 ranged in form of Gothic arches of 
 the highly pointed style, with an- 
 gular braces, and external or flying 
 buttresses : this composes the belfry 
 on the ground floor. A second series 
 of timber frame-work supports the 
 bells, and on this rises the spire." — 
 A. Suclding. The bells deserve 
 special notice. On one, perhaps 
 about 1400, is the figure of St. John. 
 Another has an inscription to St. 
 IMargaret. In the nave is a very fine 
 and perfect window of stained glass, 
 — a " tree of Jesse," and of the 15th 
 cent. It is the finest ancient window 
 in Essex. The upper portion, filled 
 probably with a figure of the A^irgin, 
 is gone — and shot marlis have been 
 discovered in the stonework — traces 
 of til e partial " dowsing " the window 
 had received. Another window re- 
 tains several quarrels painted with 
 the "herb Margaret" or daisy. 
 "Within the altar-rails is a mutilated 
 brass, temp, Eliz. 
 
 There is a large tumulus on the 
 eastern border of the parish, close to 
 the Chelmsford-road. At Shenfield, 
 and at a house called the parsonage 
 which seems to have belonged to the 
 Priory of Blackmore, are some scanty 
 relics of ancient domestic architec- 
 ture. 
 
 [About 3 m. S.E. of Margaretting 
 is the Ch. of Stoch (All Saints) built 
 like many of the Essex churches on 
 high ground, from which the views 
 are fine and extensive. The tower is 
 of timber, and resembles that of 
 Margaretting. From the tracery of 
 its windows, all of which are carved 
 in oak, this tower seems to be of 
 early Perp. date. The ch. is Dec. 
 The parsonage at Stock will be 
 looked at with some interest as 
 having been for many years the 
 home of the Kev. William Unwin, 
 the friend of Cowper — and as the 
 
22 
 
 Boute 2. — Frijerning-^Blackmore — Chelmsford. Sect. I. 
 
 scene of Cowper's ballad of the 
 'Yearly Distress, or Tithing-timo at 
 Stock, in Essex ' — 
 
 " When the farmers come jog jog 
 Along the miry road. "3 
 
 Nearly 1 m. N. of Ingatestone, on 
 a rising ground from which a good 
 view is commanded, is tlie Ch. of 
 Fryerniiig (the Friars' Meadow) — so 
 called from its having early been ap- 
 propriated to the Knights Hospi- 
 tallers, The nave has Norm, and 
 Dec. portions. The font is Norm. 
 The chancel and W. tower are Perp. 
 The latter with its machicolated bat- 
 tlements and rounded pinnacles, de- 
 serves notice. It is built of red brick. 
 On the N. side of the ch. is a mau- 
 soleum for the Kev. John Disney of 
 the Hyde. 
 
 [3J m. N.W. from Fryerning is 
 Blackmore (bleak or open moor), the 
 site of an Augustinian Priory, found- 
 ed by the family of Sandford, in the 
 early part of the 13th centy. No 
 portion of the conventual building 
 remains. The present parish Ch. (St. 
 Lawrence) was that of the Priory. 
 The W. bay of the nave is Norm., 
 the rest of the ch. E. Eng. The co- 
 loured bosses of the roof, most of 
 them human heads, deserve notice. 
 Partition walls between the nave 
 pillars and the walls of the aisles 
 divide the latter into separate chapels 
 in an unusual manner. (Compare 
 the ch. of St. Mary's, Scarborough. 
 The arrangement is foreign, and not 
 English.) The tower is of wood, 
 and resembles that of Margai-etting. 
 It is no doubt the finest timbered 
 example in Essex. The tower, of 
 Perp. date, has been built on to the 
 Norm. \V. front. It is 28 ft. square, 
 and rises 3 storeys. The whole 
 framing of the timbers is very com- 
 plicated and picturesque, recalling 
 the curious timber churches of Nor- 
 way. There are no monuments in 
 the church. At Jericho, a house 
 adjoining the N. wall of the church- 
 
 yard (now entirely modernised) was 
 born in 1519 Henry Fitzroy, natural 
 son of Henry VIII., by Lady Eliza- 
 beth Talbois. He was created Duke 
 of Kichmond and Somerset, and died 
 in 1536, aged 17.] 
 
 25 m. 1. is Hi/lands, a fine seat, 
 lately erected by John Attwood, 
 Esq., with an extensive and beau- 
 tiful deer-park. 
 
 The valley of the Chelmer is 
 crossed on an embankment to i*each 
 
 29J m. Chelmsfoed Station, in 
 Duke-street, 
 
 Inns : Saracen's Head ; Bull ; 
 Lion and Lamb. 
 
 This, the county town of Essex, 
 and nearly in its centre, stands at 
 the junction of the Can with the 
 Chelmer, from which latter river it 
 derives its name. The principal 
 bridge, however, is over the Can, and 
 occupies the place of one built by 
 Maurice, Bishop of London (1086 — 
 1107). The Eoman road seems to 
 have passed through Writtle, 2J m. 
 S.W. ; and the Bishop's Bridge 
 caused a slight alteration in the 
 course of this great highway, to 
 the great advantage of Chelmsford. 
 Town and manor belonged to the 
 Bishops of London from before the 
 Conquest to a.u. 1545, when Bishop 
 Bonner resigned them to the Crown. 
 Including its two suburbs of Mouls- 
 ham on the S. side of the Can and 
 Springfield on the N., Chelmsford 
 has 10,973 Inhab. The main or 
 High-street, serving on Friday as a 
 beast and corn market, has some 
 good shoi)s. At one end is the Shire 
 Hall, with 4 Ionic pilasters on a 
 basement story ; built 1792. Behind 
 it is St. Marrjs Ch., with a massive 
 tower, and body chiefly modern. 
 The old walls, undermined by grave- 
 diggers, fell down about 1800. What 
 remains is almost entirely Perp. 
 (date 1424). There is a curious 
 double arch in the N. wall of the 
 chancel, which has been considered 
 
Essex. 
 
 Houte 2. — Chelmsford. 
 
 23 
 
 unique. In the N. aisle are 2 monu- 
 ments to the Mikhnays of Moulsham, 
 grantees of Cliehnsford Manor, 1563. 
 One of them, displaying a vast 
 marble urn, is in memory of Ben- 
 jamin Milclmay, Earl Fitzwalter, who 
 married Duke Schomberg's second 
 daughter. 
 
 At the Free School, endowed by 
 Edward VI., were brought up Pliile- 
 mon Holland, b. 155X, translator of 
 Livy, and several other " ancients," 
 and also of Camden's 'Britannia,' 
 and Ch.-Just. Tiudal, both natives. 
 Of the latter a statue in bronze, exe- 
 cuted by Bailey, has been erected by 
 the inhabitants, in front of the Shire 
 Hall. The inscription is by the late 
 Justice Talfourd. Holland was called 
 the "translator-general of the age." 
 He it was who, after writing a folio 
 volume with one pen, indited the 
 epigram : — 
 
 " With one sole pen I wrote this book, 
 Hade of a grey goose quill ; 
 
 A pen it was when I it took, , 
 And a pen I leave it stilL" 
 
 The Corn Exchange, a somewhat 
 imposing building, was erected in 
 1856. 
 
 Tlie Chelmsford Museum, in New 
 Bridge Street, was founded by a 
 society of the townspeople. Its 
 contents are various, including a 
 library of more than 3000 volumes, 
 fossils, and objects in natm-al his- 
 tory, antiquities, and weapons dis- 
 covered in the neighbourhood. A 
 fine collection of sliells should espe- 
 cially be noticed. The Musemn is 
 open daily at 12. 
 
 The Post-0 jfice is in High Street. 
 Great improvements have been made 
 of late years at Chelmsford ; new 
 streets, and a new opening from 
 London have been formed, and a 
 second Iron Bridge thrown over the 
 Can. 
 
 The Colchester road, through the 
 N. suburb of Springfield, is enlivened 
 by an avenue of villas and gardens. 
 Springfield church contains modern 
 
 stained windows, and the brass of an 
 unknown knight, circ. 1420. 
 
 The spacious County Jail, built in 
 1828, at a cost of 57,289Z., is in this 
 parish. 
 
 [At Writtle, 2| m. S.W., is a moat, 
 said to have encircled a palace of 
 King John, and in the Ch. a marble 
 bust in judicial costume, over the 
 grave of Chief Baron Comyns. The 
 ch. has a Norm, nave, with Perp. 
 additions. Curious small chantries, 
 added apparently in the 15th centy., 
 open from the N. and S. nave aisles. 
 The font deserves notice ; and there 
 are three brasses (16th centy.) for 
 members of the Hyde and Hevening- 
 ham families. Writtle Park, Hon. F. 
 Petre, is a fine Elizabethan mansion. 
 The parish includes 8000 acres. 
 
 Moulsham Hall, immediately ad- 
 joining Chelmsford, the seat of the 
 Mildmays from the time of Eliza- 
 beth, was entirely pulled down about 
 1816. 
 
 Broomfield Ch., 2 m. N. of Chelms- 
 ford, has a round tower. The walls 
 of the ch. were perhaps Norm. ; but 
 have been rebuilt .J 
 
 [IJ m. S.E. of Chelmsford is Great 
 JBaddoiv, one of the handsomest and 
 pleasantest villages in Essex. It 
 was the native place of Eichard de 
 Baddow, Chancellor of Cambridge, 
 and founder there, in 1326, of Uni- 
 versity Hall, afterwards known as 
 Clare Hall (see Cambridge). The 
 Ch. contains some early Dec. work ; 
 but has been so much altered and 
 " restored" that it is hardly interest- 
 ing. There is a brass for Jane 
 Paschall, circ. 1600. " The ornament 
 on the skirt of her dress was no 
 doubt engraved under her superin- 
 tendence." — Haines. In this parish, 
 on Galleywood Common, is the Essex 
 Racecourse. 
 
 5 m.* Danbury Hill, 700 ft. above 
 the sea-level, and the highest land in 
 Essex, is conspicuous in the land- 
 
24 
 
 Boufe 2. — Danhury Hill. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 scape from afar, and itself commands 
 a noble view. The eastern coast is 
 visible for some distance, and a wide 
 extent of country westward. The 
 so-called Danish camp (the place is 
 written Danengeberia in Domes- 
 day) — that gives it name, is on its 
 summit, and includes the church, 
 which, from its exposed position, has 
 suftered from lightning and storm. 
 The nave and great part of the 
 chancel were thus destroyed in 1402 ; 
 when the devil, in the shape of a 
 Minorite Friar, was seen very busy in 
 the building, and " insolentissime 
 debacchans." 
 
 In the walls of the Ch. are bricks 
 dating most probably from the 14th 
 centy. The building is for the most 
 part E.E, and Dec, and was restored 
 in 1847 and subsequent years. The 
 details deserve notice. At the E. 
 end of the N. aisle, within sepulchral 
 recesses, are three wooden effigies of 
 cross-legged warriors, probably St. 
 Cleres, a race that flourished here 
 before the reign of Edward I. They 
 are nearly of the same date, — Henry 
 III. or early in the reign of Edward 
 I. The camp is of irregular form, 
 and may perhaps be Roman, — 
 altliough there is no reason wliy 
 some appropriation of it by the 
 Danish " army '' during its frequent 
 progresses through Essex, should 
 not liave given it its present name. 
 The fosse on the N. side is still of 
 considerable depth. 
 
 The lanes which climb towards 
 the high ground of Danbury are 
 deep, ferny, and almost as pictu- 
 resque as those of Devonshire. A 
 broken, heathy summit below the 
 main hill is called " the Rodney.'' 
 Fine views are commanded from it, 
 and it is a favourite place for picnics. 
 About 1 m. nearer Chelmsford, W. 
 of Danbury Hill, is Danhury Flace, 
 a modern Elizabethan mansion, 
 which since 1847 has been the resi- 
 dence of the Bi!>hop of Eochester. 
 It was purchased by the Ecclesiastical 
 Commissioners as a palace for the 
 
 See. The house stands in an old 
 park abounding in line oaks and 
 thorns. 
 
 1^ m. S. of Danbury are the ruins 
 of Bicknacre Priory, founded for 
 Augustinian Canons by Maiirice Fitz 
 Geoffry, in the reign of Hen. II. ; 
 and 2 m. N. is lAitle Baddoiv, in the 
 ch. of which place is a fine marble 
 canopied tomb, with the effigy of Sir 
 Henry Mildmay, of " Grace's," who 
 died 1639.] 
 
 Leaving Chelmsford, the railway 
 passes rt. (about 83 m. beyond the 
 town). 
 
 Borelmm Bouse (Sir J. T. Tyrcll, 
 Bart.), a large modern house of white 
 brick, with a stone portico, ap- 
 proached by a double avenue of 
 stately elms flanking the margin 
 of a Dutch canal. The family traces 
 its descent from Walter Tyrell, the 
 supposed "slayer" of William Eufus. 
 The Ch. is one of those marked by 
 Bloxam as showing traces of Saxon 
 architecture in the lower part of the 
 tower. The upper part is Norm. 
 The S. aisle is E.E. ; the N. Perp. 
 The whole ch. is indeed interesting, 
 and well deserves examination. The 
 Sussex chapel, on the S. side of 
 the choir, was the latest addition, 
 and is Elizabethan. In it lie, in 
 lead fitted to their bodies, the liad- 
 cliftes, Earls of Sussex — (see jiost, 
 New Hall, which, with the manor of 
 Boreham, was given to the Earl of 
 Sussex by Queen Elizabeth). Earl 
 Thomas (the antagonist of Leicester, 
 and a true Englishman), who died 
 in 1583, bequeathed for his tomb, 
 with effigies of himself and his two 
 predecessors, 1500Z. The effigies 
 were executed by Richard Stevens, 
 known as a statuary, painter, and 
 medallist, and celebrated for his 
 chimney-pieces. "A Dutchman," 
 says Walpole, " and no common 
 artist." He received £292 12s. 8d. 
 for his work here. The effigies have 
 
Essex. 
 
 Boute 2. — Boreliam — New Hall. 
 
 25 
 
 been greatly injured by the falliug: 
 in of the roof. They represent 
 Robert Radclifte, 1st Earl of Sussex 
 of that family ; Henry his son ; and 
 Thomas his grandson. The last 
 built the chapel and left money for 
 the monument. The bodies of the 
 two first earls, with those of their 
 wives, were brought here from the 
 ell. of St. Lawrence Pountney, 
 London. Tlie 1st earl died 1542, 
 Lord Chamberlain of England, and 
 Chamberlain of the household to 
 Hen. YHI. He was distinguislicd 
 in the French wars. The 2nd earl 
 died 1556, and was active on tlie 
 side of Queen Mary at the beginning 
 of her reign. The 3rd earl died 
 1583, and it is he who figures in 
 " Keuil worth " as the rival of Lei- 
 cester. He was Viceroy in Ireland 
 for [many years; and, according to 
 the inscription on his tomb, " was 
 most faithful to his mighty sovereign 
 Henry VHI. and his heroic race." 
 Otlier members of this family are 
 buried in the vault. In the church- 
 yard is the mausoleum of the 
 Walthams, designed from the Temple 
 of the Winds at Athens. 
 
 New Ball (1.), nearly opposite 
 Boreham, but further from the rly., 
 is a red brick building, of Tudor age 
 and architecture, with bay windows 
 and pillared chimneys, a fragment of 
 a much larger edifice ; and is of in- 
 terest owing to the great names of 
 its various owners. It was built by 
 Thomas Butler, Earl of Ormond. 
 He received the estate from Henry 
 YIL, and his daughter married Sir 
 Thomas, father of Anne Boleyn, 
 whose royal Imsband occupied and em- 
 bellished New Hall, and celebrated 
 the feast of St. George here in 1524. 
 Over a door leading from the back 
 of the hall are the arms of this 
 monarch with tlie legend " Henricus 
 Rex Octavus — Rex inclit. armis 
 magnanimus, struxit hoc opus 
 egregium ; " and over the entrance 
 door of the hall are the arms of 
 
 {Essex, &c.'\ 
 
 Ehzabeth, with the following in- 
 scription ; — 
 
 Vivat Elizabetha. 
 En terra la piu savla rcgina 
 
 liln cielo la piu lucenie stella ; 
 Virgine magnanima, dotta, divina, 
 Leggiadra, houesta e bella. 
 
 The " Virgine Magnanima "' gave 
 New Hall to the Earl of Sussex. 
 George Villiers, Duke of Bucking- 
 ham, was its owner in 1620, as 
 was at a later period Oliver Crom- 
 well, who received it from the 
 Parliament, but exchanged it soon 
 after for Hampton Court. At the 
 Restoration it reverted to the 2nd 
 Duke of Buckingham, who sold it to 
 Monk, Duke of Albemarle. He 
 lived here at enormous expense and 
 in great state. John Olmius, Lord 
 Waltham (of Ireland), became the 
 owner in 1737, and pulled down 
 part of it. (The famous E. window 
 of St. Margaret's, Westminster, 
 during its many wanderings, found 
 a resting-place for some time in 
 the chapel of New Hall. It is 
 said to have been buried during 
 the civil war by order of the Duke 
 of Buckingham, and to have been 
 replaced in the chapel by Gen. 
 Monk. When Lord Waltham pulled 
 down the chapel, the window was 
 bought by Mr. Conyers, of Copt 
 Hall, who sold it to St. Margaret's 
 in 1758. For its earlier history, 
 see Waltham, Rte. 11.). For some 
 years New Hall has been a Roman 
 Catholic nunnenj ; having been oc- 
 cupied by nuns of the order of the 
 Holy Sepulchre, driven from Liege 
 during the French revolution. The 
 nuns educate a great number of 
 young ladies belonging to the prin- 
 cipal Rom. Catholic families in 
 England and Ireland. 
 
 2 m. further,. 1., but not seen from 
 the rly., from which it is nearly 
 2 m. distant, is 
 
 Terling Place (Lord Rayleigh). 
 The present house is modern ; but on 
 this site was an ancient palace of the 
 bishops of Norwich — with a chapel 
 
26 
 
 Boiite 2. — Hatfield Peverell — Witham. Sect. I. 
 
 possessing the right of sanctuaiy. 
 (Hxibort do Burgh took shelter in it 
 in 1232 — when he was first dragged 
 from it by the King's (Hen. III.) 
 men — (the smith sent for to rivet his 
 fetters exclaimed, " I will never 
 make iron shackles for him. ... Is 
 not this Hubert who restored Eng- 
 land to England?" referring to the 
 great victory at sea gained by him 
 over Louis of France,) — carried to 
 London, and then restored to this 
 chapel by order of the King, who 
 feared to violate the sanctuary, 
 but secured it by a ditch and fence 
 drawn round it, so that on the 
 fortieth day the great earl was 
 compelled to surrender. Hubert 
 was on his way to join his wife at 
 Bury St. Edmund's. See the story 
 in Matt. Paris, p. 310, who gives no 
 name to the chapel, but no otlier 
 in Essex answers to his description : 
 Hubert 'transiens per Essexiam 
 hospitatus est in villa quadam, qu£e 
 ad jus pertinet Episcopi Norwi- 
 censis.") This palace was occa- 
 sionally occupied by Hen. VIII. 
 
 Hatfield Peverel Cli., passed rt. of 
 the rly., is a Norm, structure, the 
 only remaining portion of a priory 
 founded for Benedictines, and made 
 subject to St. Alban's Abbey by 
 Wm. Peverel, about 1100. The priory 
 is said to have been founded by his 
 mother Ingelrica — as she is called 
 by Leland, — the daughter of a Saxon 
 ' Ingelric,' who became the Con- 
 queror's mistress — and afterwards 
 the wife of Kanulph Peverell, — 
 founder of the famous house of 
 *' Peverell of the Peak " — and owner 
 of 35 lordships in Essex, besides 
 many others in Suffolk and Norfolk. 
 There is little authority for this 
 history of "Ingelrica;' but there 
 was such a tradition here — and an 
 effigy (of course, of much later date) 
 is still shown in Hatfield church as 
 representing the Saxon lady. A 
 modern house is now called the 
 Priory — (J. Wright, Esq.). Here 
 were preserved, says Walpole, the 
 
 medallions which adorned Holbein's 
 gateway at Whitehall. It is not 
 now known what has become of 
 them. 
 
 38^ m. Witham Stat, (Branch 
 lines here pass off rt. and 1. to Mai- 
 den and Braintree. See Rtes. 3 and 4.) 
 
 Witham (Inn: Wliite Hart) is a 
 market town of 3500 Inhab., on 
 the Brain or Guith — a tributary of 
 the Blackwater. (As tlie Brain, it 
 eitlier takes its name from, or gives 
 it to, Braintree, — as the Guith or 
 With, to Witham. — Guith the White 
 river (?) — oj^posed to the Blackwater. 
 It is also known as the Pods- 
 brook.) The Ch. on "Chipping" or 
 Market Hill, stands within an en- 
 trenchment, which no doubt marks 
 the site of the " burgh " or fortified 
 town, "wrought and timbered by 
 Edward the Elder (son of K. Alfred) 
 in 913 — the King remaining at Mai- 
 den while the work was in progress, 
 and receiving the submission of many 
 who before had been under the 
 Danes." — (' Sax. Chron.' ad. ann.) In 
 the walls of the Church (S. Nicholas) 
 are many Roman bricks ; and there 
 was possibly a small station here, 
 although the "ad Ansam" of the 
 Itineraries, which has sometimes 
 been placed at Witham, was certainly 
 N. of Colchester. In the ch. are 
 effigies of Judge Southcote and his 
 wife (reign of Elizabeth,) and a 
 tablet to Wm. Pattisson and his wife, 
 drowned in the Lac de Gaube, m 
 the Pyrenees, on their marriage tour. 
 Sir John Suckling the poet was born 
 here 1613. There is much good 
 Dec. work in the ch. 
 
 The Vicarage of Witham was 
 greatly (Morant says "extrava- 
 gantly") beautified by Dr. Sayer, 
 vicar from 1722 to 1761. "What 
 pleased me most in my travels," 
 writes Walpole (1749), " was Dr. 
 Sayer's parsonage at Witham, 
 which, with Southcote's help, 
 
 .... he has made one of the 
 most charming villas in England. 
 
Essex. 
 
 Boute 2. — Kelvedon — Tiptree Hall. 
 
 27 
 
 There are sweet meadows fallini? 
 down a hill, and rising again on 
 t' other side of the prettiest little 
 winding stream you ever saw." 
 
 Between Witham and Kelvedon, 
 rt., about Ij m. from the railway, is 
 Braxted Park (Charles Du Cane, 
 Esq., Governor of Tasmania, 18G8), 
 a handsome modern house with a 
 statue gallery. In the park is a fine 
 avenue. There is a remarkable view 
 from Braxted towards the estuary of 
 the Blackwater on one side, and over 
 a wide wooded landscape on the 
 other. The eh. of Little Braxted 
 has a circular apse and some Norm, 
 features. 
 
 1 m. 1., just before reaching Kel- 
 vedon Stat., is Felix Hall, the seat 
 of Sir Thos. B. Western, M.P., a 
 stone-fronted mansion, containing a 
 fine marble candelabrum 7 ft. high, 
 a large vase, and some other antiques, 
 brought from Italy by the late Lord 
 Western, who, before he received 
 his peerage from Earl Grey, had sat 
 in 11 Parliaments for Maldon and 
 Essex : he was a great farmer. 
 
 42 va. Kelvedon Stat. Inns: Angel, 
 Star. Kelvedon consists of one long 
 street, extending 'from the Cli. (re- 
 paired in 1844, and with a roof of 
 carved wood) to the station ; close to 
 which is a bridge over the Black- 
 water. In the Swan tavern is some 
 cm'ious wood carving and panelling. 
 In this neighbourhood pot-herbs and 
 garden-vegetables, — parsley, carrots, 
 and onions, are extensively cultivated 
 for seed crops. Carraway is also con- 
 spicuous in large brown squares. 
 
 [4^ m. S.E. of Kelvedon is Tiptree 
 Hall, where Mr. Mechi carried on his 
 important experiments in agricul- 
 ture. Mr. Mechi bought this farm 
 of 170 acres, in 1840, for 3250L 
 Upon it he has laid out nearly 7000Z. 
 The usual quantity of seed per acre 
 is — wheat, 1 bushel ; barley, 6 to 8 
 pecks; oats, 2 bushels. The aver- 
 age yield is — wheat, above 5 quarters; 
 
 barley, 7 quarters ; oats, 11 quarters ; 
 mangel, from 25 to 40 tons. Though 
 from 300 to 400 sheep are fattened 
 annually, not one sheep a year has 
 been lost for 15 years. Tiie special 
 distinction of this farm is the irriga- 
 tion with liqiiid manure. A steam- 
 engine with 16 hydrants supplies the 
 manure to every part of the farm. 
 The draining pipes supply the water ; 
 — which is pumped into a reservou* 
 on the manm-e, and from this it is 
 propelled on the land. The soil is 
 poor, but the consequence of this irri- 
 gation is that fields of clover and 
 Italian rye-grass are mown three 
 or four times in a season, and after- 
 wards fed with sheep. "Perhaps 
 some of my readers," says Mr. 
 Mechi himself, "may be surprised 
 when I tell them that we irrigate all 
 day long and every day, wet or dry, 
 Sundays and hard frosts only ex- 
 cepted. The quantity applied daily 
 may average from 500 to 700 hogs- 
 heads. In dry weather it is no un- 
 common thing that we apply 1 inch 
 per acre, and cause the drains to dis- 
 charge abundantly as though it had 
 been raining heavily for 24 hours." 
 The cost of manuring in this way is, 
 he asserts, less than is. 6d. per acre. 
 " Of live stock," he adds, "I seldom 
 make less than ten to thirteen score 
 pounds of meat per acre over the 
 whole farm : it is the key to good 
 crops." 
 
 A curious and amusing visitors' 
 book is kept at the farm, in which 
 strangers from every part of the 
 world have recorded their impres- 
 sions. 
 
 .3 m. N. of Kelvedon is Coggesliall, 
 where are some manufactories of 
 silk, silk-plush for hats, and velvet. 
 Garden-seeds a re grown in the vicinity. 
 The Cli. (which has been well restored 
 by the present vicar) is a fine 
 Perp. building. In the ch.-yard, rt. 
 of the principal path, is the tomb- 
 stone of a gipsy, named Cassello 
 Chilcott. It is visited every year 
 by some of her tribe. A Cistercian 
 
 c 2 
 
28 
 
 Boute 2. — Coggesliall. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 abbey was founded hero by King 
 Stephen in 1142, the revenue of 
 which at the Dissolution was 298/. 
 The site of Coggeshall Abbey is 
 marked by an old farm-house, 1. of 
 the road from Colchester, across the 
 Blackwater. The whole scene, with 
 its meadows and trees, is very 
 pleasing. The remains are scanty ; 
 but " they atibrd the earliest instance 
 of medieval brick which has yet 
 been noticed in England ; and the 
 artist will find in the rich warm 
 tints of some of this brickwork, 
 stained with lichens and contrasted 
 with the neighbouring foliage, some 
 subjects well worthy of his sketch- 
 book."—^, L. Ctdts. The river is 
 crossed by a bridge, of which the 
 arches are brickwork of 13th centy. ; 
 and at the top of the hill, beyond 
 the river, is a chapel of the 13 th 
 centy., long used as a barn, until, 
 within the last few years, it was 
 given by the owner, the Rev. W. 
 Bullock, together with an acre of 
 land round it, to the church and 
 vicar of Coggeshall. (It seems to 
 have been the chapel of a district 
 known as Little Coggeshall, and was 
 dedicated to St. Nicholas.) This 
 chapel has been restored ; and some 
 good tiling was found during the 
 works. It is not possible to deter- 
 mine the arrangement of the monas- 
 tic buildings, and even the site of 
 the ch. is not certain. But the 
 remains deserve notice as architec- 
 tural fragments, and are entirely of 
 late Norm, and Trans, character. 
 (Tliey have been fully described by 
 the Rev. E. L. Cutts in the ' Trans, 
 of the Essex Archa3ological Society,' 
 vol. i.) The brickwork should every- 
 where be noticed. It has been as- 
 certained that the bricks were made 
 and burnt at a place still known 
 as the " Tilkey " (tile kiln), N.W. of 
 the town. Mr. Cutts suggests that 
 the grove across the river may have 
 always existed in its present condi- 
 tion, as a place of recreation for the 
 convent, and compares the grove 
 
 across the river at Queen's College, 
 Cambridge, also a Cistercian founda- 
 tion. There are remains of the fish 
 ponds S. of the Abbey Mill. Ralph 
 of Coggeshall, descended from a 
 family which took its surname from 
 this place, and was resident here, 
 was abbot of tlie monastery in the 
 early part of the 13th centy. He 
 was present in Jerusalem during 
 the siege of the city by Saladin. 
 His ' Chronicon Anglicanum ' (1066- 
 1200), his 'Libellus de Motibus 
 Anglie, sub Johanne rege,' and his 
 ' Chronicon Terrse Sanctfe,' were 
 printed by Martene and Durand, 
 ' Amplis. Collectio,' vol. 5, and are 
 among the works to be edited in the 
 Master of the Roll's series. Nume- 
 rous Roman remains, especially urns 
 and coins, have been found at Cogges- 
 liall : which was apparently the site 
 of a Roman village or small town, 
 on a road running from Colonia 
 (Colchester) to Verulamium (St. 
 Alban's). 
 
 Feering Ch., between Kelvedon 
 and Coggeshall, has much brick- 
 work of the l.^th centy. in its S. 
 aisle, wall, and porch. 
 
 2 m, N. of Coggeshall is Oldfield 
 Grange (Osgood Hanbury, Esq.). 
 About 2 m, beyond is Mark's Hall 
 (Mrs. Honey wood), from which 
 several of the great Lord Burleigh's 
 letters are dated. It was rebuilt by 
 the Honey woods, a Kentish family, 
 in 1605. Here is a portrait of Mrs. 
 Mary Honey wood, who died 1620, 
 at 93, having seen 16 children, 114 
 grandchildren, 228 in the 3rd, and 
 9 in the 4th generation, in all 367 
 descendants. Her tomb and effigy 
 are in the ch.] 
 
 [^Messing and Layer Marney may 
 best be visited from Kelvedon. The 
 former place is distant about 2 m, 
 " Here, about 2 m. distant, is Mes- 
 sing," writes Walpole, in 1749, "I 
 saw an extreme fine window of 
 painted glass in the ch. : it is the 
 
EsSE^C. 
 
 Itoide ^.— -Messing — Layer Marnei/. 
 
 !i9 
 
 duties prescribed in the Gospel of 
 visiting the sick, prisoners, &c. . . . 
 There is a very old wooden figure of 
 Sir Kobert Messing, who built the 
 ch." (This figure was actually given 
 by a former vicar, to the parish clerk, 
 to be burnt as a useless piece of 
 lumber.) The Ch. was enlarged in 
 1840. The window described by 
 Walpole remains in the chancel, and 
 was the gift of Sir Charles Chibborne 
 in the reign of Charles I. Lord 
 Verulam is the lord of the manor, 
 but the old house is pulled down. 
 The Eev. H. Jenkins (' Archseologia,' 
 vol. xxix.) has suggested that the 
 scene of the famous battle between 
 Suetonius and Boadicea should be 
 fixed near Messing. " Whoever visits 
 the camp at Haynes Green, near the 
 village of Messing, will be struck 
 with the resemblance it bears to the 
 position taken up by Suetonius. . . . 
 Two large woods, Pod's Wood and 
 Layer Marney Wood, seem to form 
 the narrow gorge in front of tlie camp 
 which Tacitus mentions (locum arctis 
 faucibus et a tergo sylva clausum.) — 
 Ann., xiv. 34." The site of the 
 battle, however, is by no means 
 certain. 
 
 The pedestrian may walk to 
 Layer Marney, by Haynes Green ; 
 the distance is rather more than 2 m. 
 *Layer Marney Hall (Layer is per- 
 haps Zaf/er = cubile ferarum, a lying 
 place of wild animals,) was built 
 1520-3, by Sir Henry Marney, 1st 
 Lord Marney, K.G., captain of the 
 guard to Henry VIII. Originally a 
 quadrangle, 104 ft. by 76 ft. within, 
 its principal i-emaining portions are 
 a part of the E. side, and the great 
 gate-house, of brick, 3 storeys in 
 height, and flanked by 2 octagonal 
 turrets, 70 ft. high, of 4 storeys — each 
 storey having a double range of win- 
 dows. The battlements are highly 
 enriched, and, with the chimneys, 
 dressings, &c., are executed in 
 moulded brick. Dallaway (notes to 
 Walpole) suggests that they were 
 very likely executed under the in- 
 
 fluence of Girolamo da Trevizi, the 
 King's architect, with whom Sir 
 H. Marney, founder of the house, 
 must, as captain of the guard, have 
 come into occasional contact. The 
 parapet is especially good. The 
 letters M 0, joined by a knot, are 
 perhaps initials of a Marney and his 
 wife. The window mullions form 
 Ionic pilasters. The surface of the 
 wall is ornamented with diagonal 
 lines of dark glazed bricks and 
 flint. Portions of the buildings which 
 surrounded tiie quadrangular court 
 also remain tolerably perfect, espe- 
 cially a long dormitory with open 
 timber roof at the top of the N. 
 range. It seems to have been the 
 general dormitory of the retainers. 
 Some of the rooms have good panels 
 of carved oak and rich plaster 
 cornices. 
 
 The Ch., close to the Hall, is of 
 brick, and was enlarged or rebuilt by 
 the Marneys (who held the manor 
 from the reign of Henry II. to that 
 of Henry VIIL). They have three 
 monuments here, all of the 16th 
 cent., which are fine, and well pre- 
 served. The earliest is in the 
 chancel, and is that of Sir William 
 de Marney, who died after 1414. 
 Between the chancel and the N. 
 aisle is the effigy of Sir Henry, first 
 Lord Marney, — died 1523. He wears 
 the robes of the Garter. The canopy 
 and details are of Italian design; 
 and it is not impossible that the 
 work was executed by the same 
 Italian artists who were employed on 
 the house — built by this Sir Henry. 
 The tomb of his son, John, Lord 
 Marney, in the Marney chapel, is 
 different, and more resembles that of 
 Sir William in the chancel. He 
 may have preferred the good old 
 Gothic to the Kenaissance introduced 
 by his father. There are also monu- 
 ments to the Corsellises, later pro- 
 jDrietors.] 
 
 East Thorpe Ch., passed rt., has 
 a very good E. Eng. east window. • 
 
30 
 
 Moute 2. — Mark's-Tey — Lexden. 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 46i- m. Marie s-Tey Stat, stands 
 near the junction of the Eoniun 
 roads which ran from London and 
 from Verulam by Stortford, passing 
 to Colchester. 
 
 In the Ch. of Mark's-Tey is a 
 timber font which seems cut out of 
 a single block. The octagonal bowl 
 has its sides elaborately carved in 
 tabernacle work, and was once 
 painted in polychrome. It is lined 
 with lead. 
 
 [The little Norm. Ch. of Copford, 
 2 m. S.E. of Mark's-Tey Stat., is one 
 of those which are said to have had 
 their doors covered with the skins of 
 plundering Danes. (See Hadstoclc, 
 Ete. 11). No such remains exist at 
 present at Copford, but there were 
 some not long since ; and a portion 
 of skin examined by Mr. Quekett 
 was pronounced by him to be human, 
 and that of a fair haired person.J 
 
 [Great Tey Ch., 2^ m. N.W. of 
 Mark's-Tey, has a Norm, central 
 tower, with angles, window arches 
 and arcades of Roman brick. One 
 light in the stair turret is composed 
 of a whole Eoman flue tile.] 
 
 The name Tey is perhaps the 
 A. S. teagh, ^ea/i = an enclosure — 
 (tie). Mark's-Tey is so called from 
 a family "de Marca" or "de Marcis," 
 who held much land in Essex rmder 
 the Mandevilles. It is sometimes 
 called " Tey ad Ulmos," from the 
 very fine elms which anciently grew 
 (and still grow) in its neighbourhood. 
 
 1. The Halstead and Stour Valley 
 Ely. branches off here. (See Ete. 
 8.) 
 
 The village of Lexden (3 m. be- 
 yond Mark's-Tey, rt. of the rly., and 
 2 m. by road from Colchester), has 
 been regarded (see an Essay by the 
 Bev. H. Jenkins, ' Archa3ologia,' vol. 
 xxix. ; and ' Quart. Eev.,' No. 193,) 
 and with great probability, as the 
 site of the British Caunilodunum, the 
 cajiital of the Trinobante^, removed 
 
 to this place by Cunobelin (the Cym- 
 bcline of Shakesjjeare), from Verula- 
 mium (St. Alban s). Tlie unwalled 
 Eoman Colonia was at first estab- 
 lished here, and afterwards, as a 
 walled fortress, on a corner of the 
 British city — the present Colchester. 
 " When we picture to ourselves what 
 a British oppidum was, a \nde space 
 enclosed within mounds or stockades, 
 or more commonly flanked on two or 
 tliree sides by woods or morasses, 
 and defended in front by a rude ram- 
 part, we shall be struck with the 
 perfect corresiDondence of Lexden 
 with such a position. To the N. of 
 it flows the Colne, in a deep, and 
 what must have been in those days a 
 marshy valley, while on the S. it is 
 flanked by a smaller stream still 
 called the Eoman river, which pro- 
 bably made its way through dense 
 forests. These two streams, meeting 
 in the estuary of the Colne, enclose 
 on three sides the jjeninsula on which 
 Lexden stands, and across this neck 
 of land, or such part of it as was un- 
 occupied by marsh or wood, two or 
 perhaps three parallel lines of ram- 
 part may now be traced for two or 
 more miles, supposed to be British, 
 from the flint celts which have been 
 found about them." (This, however, 
 is a very imiDcrfect indication of 
 date, — and indeed the celts are pro- 
 bably far more ancient than the 
 rampart.) These we take to have 
 to have been the new ramparts of the 
 royal city, and in the space within 
 them, amounting to about twenty 
 square miles, inaccessible on the N., 
 S., and E., and strongly defended on 
 the W., the Trinobantes could re- 
 tire for security with all their flocks 
 and herds. What was the nature of 
 the buildings tliey erected there we 
 can hardly conjecture ; but near the 
 centre of these lines a conspicuous 
 moimd still exists, which we would 
 gladly believe to be the sepulchre of 
 the great Cunobelin. A small Eo- 
 man camp, or more properly a cas- 
 tellum, is still well preserved at no 
 
'•■V,,., •"''•- 
 
 ' '/' 
 
Essex. 
 
 Route 2." — Colchester : History. 
 
 31 
 
 i^reat distance from the S.W. angle of 
 this British fortification." — Q. B. 
 
 Whatever may be thought of these 
 arguments, the suggestion is interest- 
 ing, and gives a certain importance 
 to Lexden. 
 
 A Koman cemetery, from which 
 nearly 300 urns have been exhumed, 
 has been discovered witliin the 
 grounds of West Lodge. A Koman 
 road passed (nearly in the line of 
 the present turnpike road) from Lex- 
 den to Cambridge, by Haverhill and 
 Linton; at Lexden it fell into tlie 
 main road from London to Col- 
 chester. 
 
 51^ m. Colchester Stat, is at Mile 
 End, nearly a mile N. from the town. 
 (The stat. for Brightlingsea and 
 Walton-on-the-Naze (Rte. 6), is near 
 St. Botolph's in the lower part of the 
 town — but the two rly. lines are con- 
 nected). The large and magnificent 
 building near the Mile End stat., 
 erected as an hotel by Sir S. M. Peto, 
 at a cost of 15,000Z., has been con- 
 verted into an asylum for idiots. 
 
 Colchester. — Inns: Three Cups, 
 excellent ; George ; Red Lion, an 
 old house, having some remains of 
 ornamental carving on its front. 
 Local tradition points to this house 
 (or the Old King's Head) as the 
 place where the Royalist garrison 
 were assembled after the surrender 
 of the town. Hither was sent " the 
 messenger with a death-like counten- 
 ance" to summon Sir Chas. Lucas 
 and Su* Geo. Lisle to the General ; 
 and here, after the execution of 
 those brave men, the remainder of 
 the garrison were visited by Fairfax 
 and Ireton. It was on this occasion 
 that Ireton was upbraided by Lord 
 Capel, who afterwards lost his head 
 on the scaffold —it was said in con- 
 sequence. It does not appear at 
 wliat inn Johnson and Boswell 
 passed a night in August, 1763, on 
 their way to Harwich. They tra- 
 velled from London in the stage 
 coach, Johnson having in hia pocket 
 
 ' Pomponius Mela,' and seeming very 
 intent on ancient geography. He 
 regarded Colchester witli veneration 
 " for having stood a siege for 
 Charles I. ;" and at supper he talked 
 to Boswell " of good eating with 
 uncommon satisfaction." 
 
 Colchester is the largest town in 
 Essex. The population within the 
 limits of the borough was, in 1861, 
 23,809. It stands on an eminence 
 sloping N. and E.-wards to the Colne, 
 a river which most unusually takes 
 its name from the town (Colonia), 
 instead of bestowing a more ancient 
 name on the Roman city. 
 
 It is now generally admitted that 
 the site of " Colonia Camulodunum " 
 must be sought at Colchester, where 
 the remaining traces of Roman occu- 
 pation are of liigh interest and im- 
 portance. Cunobelin, as has already 
 been mentioned, had removed the 
 capital of the Trinobantes from Veru- 
 lamium to Camulodunum. In the 
 year 44, the Emperor Claudius, after 
 the two campaigns of his lieutenant 
 Aulus Plautius, crossed to Britain 
 from Boulogne, joined the legions with 
 his famous elephants at their en- 
 campments beyond the Thames, and 
 marched with an overwhelming force 
 to Camulodunum, which he entered 
 with little resistance. Sixteen years 
 later, " to overawe the disaffected, 
 and to show to the more submissive 
 an image of Roman civilization," a 
 Roman colony was founded in the 
 capital of the conquered Trinobantes. 
 "It was dignified with the name of 
 Claudian, from the emperor himself, 
 or Victricensis, from the conquest of 
 which it was the symbol, which was 
 also typified by a statue of Victory, 
 erected in its principal place." The 
 place received indiscriminately the 
 name of " Colonia," " Camulodu- 
 num," — or sometimes " Colonia Ca- 
 mulodunum." It was the first 
 Roman colony founded in Britain. 
 " Claudius determined to inform the 
 minds of his remotest subjects on 
 the article of his own divinity — and 
 
Essex. 
 
 Boute 2.' — Colchester : History. 
 
 31 
 
 i^reat distance from the S.W. angle of 
 this British fortification." — Q. B. 
 
 Whatever may be thought of these 
 arguments, the suggestion is interest- 
 ing, and gives a certain importance 
 to Lexden. 
 
 A Koman cemetery, from which 
 nearly 300 urns have been exhumed, 
 has been discovered witliin the 
 grounds of West Lodge. A Koman 
 road passed (nearly in the line of 
 the present turnpike road) from Lex- 
 den to Cambridge, by Haverhill and 
 Linton; at Lexden it fell into tlie 
 main road from London to Col- 
 chester. 
 
 51 1 m. CoLCHESTEE Stat, is at Mile 
 End, nearly a mile N. from the town. 
 (The stat. for Brightlingsea and 
 Walton-on-the-Naze (Rte. 6), is near 
 St. Botolph's in the lower part of the 
 town — but the two rly. lines are con- 
 nected). The large and magnificent 
 building near the Mile End stat., 
 erected as an hotel by Sir S. M. Peto, 
 at a cost of 15,000Z., has been con- 
 verted into an asylum for idiots. 
 
 Colchester. — Inns: Three Cups, 
 excellent ; George ; Red Lion, an 
 old house, having some remains of 
 ornamental carving on its front. 
 Local tradition points to this house 
 (or the Old King's Head) as the 
 place where the Royalist garrison 
 were assembled after the surrender 
 of the town. Hither was sent " the 
 messenger with a death-like counten- 
 ance" to summon Sir Chas. Lucas 
 and Su* Geo. Lisle to the General ; 
 and here, after the execution of 
 those brave men, the remainder of 
 the garrison were visited by Fairfax 
 and Ireton. It was on this occasion 
 that Ireton was upbraided by Lord 
 Capel, who afterwards lost his head 
 on the scaffold —it was said in con- 
 sequence. It does not appear at 
 wliat inn Johnson and Boswell 
 passed a night in August, 1763, on 
 their way to Harwich. They tra- 
 velled from London in the stage 
 coach, Johnson having in hia pocket 
 
 ' Pomponius Mela,' and seeming very 
 intent on ancient geography. He 
 regarded Colchester witli veneration 
 " for having stood a siege for 
 Charles I. ;" and at supper he talked 
 to Boswell " of good eating with 
 uncommon satisfaction." 
 
 Colchester is the largest town in 
 Essex. The population within the 
 limits of the borough was, in 1861, 
 23,809. It stands on an eminence 
 sloping N. and E.-wards to the Colne, 
 a river which most unusually takes 
 its name from the town (Colonia), 
 instead of bestowing a more ancient 
 name on the Roman city. 
 
 It is now generally admitted that 
 the site of " Colonia Camulodunum " 
 must be sought at Colchester, where 
 the remaining traces of Roman occu- 
 pation are of high interest and im- 
 portance. Cunobelin, as has already 
 been mentioned, had removed the 
 capital of the Trinobantes from Veru- 
 lamium to Camulodunum. In the 
 year 44, the Emperor Claudius, after 
 the two campaigns of his lieutenant 
 Aulus Plautius, crossed to Britain 
 from Boulogne, joined the legions with 
 his famous elephants at their en- 
 campments beyond the Thames, and 
 marched with an overwhelming force 
 to Camulodunum, which he entered 
 with little resistance. Sixteen years 
 later, " to overawe the disaffected, 
 and to show to the more submissive 
 an image of Roman civilization," a 
 Roman colony was founded in the 
 capital of the conquered Trinobantes. 
 "It was dignified with the name of 
 Claudian, from the emperor himself, 
 or Victricensis, from the conquest of 
 which it was the symbol, which was 
 also typified by a statue of Victory, 
 erected in its principal place." The 
 place received indiscriminately the 
 name of " Colonia," " Camulodu- 
 num," — or sometimes " Colonia Ca- 
 mulodunum." It was the first 
 Roman colony founded in Britain. 
 " Claudius determined to inform the 
 minds of his remotest subjects ou 
 the article of his own divinity — and 
 
32 
 
 Boute 2. — Colchester : Walls. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 accordingly directed the colonists of 
 Canmlodunum to consecrate to him 
 a temple, and appoint from among 
 themselves an order of priests to 
 minister therein." (The passages 
 quoted are from the ' Quart. Ivcv.,' 
 No. 193.) 
 
 In the year 62 occurred the insur- 
 rection of tlie Iceni, who " suddenly 
 rose in a mass and rolled southwards. 
 The estuaries of the Stour and Colne, 
 with their intervening forests and 
 marshes, might protect Camulodu- 
 num on the E., but on the N. the 
 road was open to tlie insurgents, the 
 rivers were easily forded, and no 
 defensible positions were held by the 
 Romans in advance. Great was the 
 excitement that prevailed, both in 
 the palaces and cabins of the Roman 
 colony. Women wailed, horses 
 neighed ; the theatre (for the Ro- 
 mans had raised a theatre there, 
 possibly the semicircular enclosure 
 N.W. of Lexden, vulgarly called 
 King Coel's kitchen) had resounded 
 with unaccustomed noises ; the build- 
 ings of the city had been seen re- 
 flected upsidedown in the waters of 
 the estuary ; and on the retreat 
 of the tide, the ghastly remains of 
 human bodies had been discovered 
 in tlie ooze." The colonists hastily 
 fortified the temple of Claudius, the 
 most solid edifice they possessed ; 
 but the Trinobantes "joined eagerly 
 with the Iceni in the work of de- 
 struction and massacre The 
 
 last asylum of the wretched colonists 
 was carried by the infuriate Britons 
 in two days, and every one put to 
 the sword, while their houses were 
 sacked and burnt." Cerealis, legate 
 of the 9th legion, was afterwards 
 completely routed by the insurgents 
 (see Rte. 8, Wormingford). The 
 whole of what is now Essex and 
 Hertfordshire fell into the hands of 
 the insurgents ; and it was not until 
 after the great battle in which Sue- 
 tonius Paullinus defeated the forces 
 of Boadicea (the scene of which, it 
 has been suggested, may have been 
 
 Messing, between Colchester and 
 Maldon — see ante), that the power 
 of Rome was restored in South 
 Britain. 
 
 The walls of Colchester date, in 
 all probability, from this period. " Of 
 the vast enclosure ot the old British 
 lines (see ante, Lexden) one corner 
 was amply sufficient for a Roman 
 fortified town. The site was chosen 
 at the eastern extremity of that area, 
 where the elevated plain of Lexden 
 terminates in a spit of land pro- 
 jecting between the valley of the 
 Colne on the one side, and a dry 
 ravine on the other, till it falls with 
 a rapid descent into the river below. 
 Upon this spot a space was marked 
 out about 1000 yards in length from 
 E. to W. ; and GOO in width from N. 
 to S., which was divided after the 
 manner of a military camp by two 
 main streets crossing each other near 
 the centre. The direction of these 
 avenues has been nearly, though not 
 precisely, preserved to the present 
 day ; the High Street of Colchester, 
 like the Corso of Rome, for no reason 
 that can be ti'aced, deflects slightly 
 from the original line, and is no 
 longer flush with the Praetorian or 
 front gate in the western face of the 
 walls, though it still preserves its 
 original exit at the opposite side. Of 
 the walls which surrounded this city 
 ample remains still exist. They may 
 be traced on the W., N., and E. sides 
 almost without interruption, and 
 through far the greater part of that 
 extent they still rise many feet above 
 the ground, showing, by the perfect 
 uniformity of their construction, foiu* 
 courses of cut stone (septaria) alter- 
 nating with four courses of brick, 
 that the whole was executed toge- 
 ther, and has at no time undergone 
 any considerable repair. On the S. 
 side, where these walls have been 
 pierced for the progressive extension 
 of the town, the remains of the 
 original structure are far less dis- 
 tinct. On the whole, however, the 
 
EsSEl. 
 
 Houte ^. — Colchester: Castle. 
 
 33 
 
 walls of Colchester may be advanta- 
 geously compared with any other 
 remains of the kind in this island, or 
 perhaps even on the Continent." (See 
 jpost fur a further notice of the walls.) 
 
 The chief objects of interest in 
 Colchester besides these walls, are 
 the Castle, with the Museum of tlie 
 Essex Archaeological Society, which 
 is arranged in it; St. Botolpli's 
 Priory, and the Abbey Gate. All 
 possess historical and antiquarian 
 interest, and they may be viewed in 
 a morning walk of 3 or 4 hours 
 (The churches, except perhaps tlic 
 tower of Trinity ch., are of no great 
 importance.) 
 
 The main or High-street, running 
 E. and W., though clogged with some 
 ugly buildings and the small Ch. 
 (Dec. but of little interest) of St. 
 Runicald in the middle, is wide and 
 cheerful. In it are some good shops 
 and the principal inns, and at the W. 
 end is the Corn Exchange, where is a 
 large Saturday market (the market 
 here, embracing a wide and rich 
 agricultural district, is important for 
 corn and cattle). In High-street, 
 until pulled down by the barbarism 
 of the town council in 1843, stood the 
 Moot Hall, probably the oldest muni- 
 cipal structure in Britain, whose low 
 circular arches and stunted piers have 
 been referred (though inaccurately) 
 to Saxon times. It was no doubt 
 inconvenient and unsightly, but as a 
 monument of great antiquity, dating 
 from a period soon after the Con- 
 quest, it ought to have been spared. 
 (In tlie Castle Museum is a draw- 
 ing of a portal discovered during the 
 destruction of the hall, — which was 
 certainly Norm. From the time of 
 its election the Moot Hall had been 
 uninterruptedly employed as a court 
 of justice). Whatever the old build- 
 ing may have been, the new Town 
 Hall on its site, with its pilasters, 
 rusticated basement, and Doric cor- 
 nices, cannot lay claim to elegance. 
 Here and on Mersea Island are held 
 the Conservancy courts of the oyster 
 
 fishery. In the old TMoot Hall Fair- 
 fax and Ireton held the council of 
 war that condemned Lucas and Lisle 
 to death. 
 
 N. of High-street, and opposite the 
 dilapidated and timber-steepled Ch. 
 of St. Nicholas, though concealed by 
 intervening houses, stands, on high 
 ground, the Norman Keep, which 
 alone remains of the * Castle. It is a 
 low quadrangular mass, 168 ft. by 
 126 ft. in plan (divided, as was usual 
 in Norman keeps, by a wall running 
 E. and W.), with square turrets at its 
 angles, pilaster strips between them, 
 and a semicircular projection at the 
 S.E. corner. This was believed by 
 General Roy, whose hypothesis has 
 lately been revived by the Eev. H. 
 Jenkins, to have been the actual 
 temple of Claudius. There seems 
 no satisfactory reason, however, for 
 regarding it as any other than a 
 Norm, building, constructed in part 
 of Eoman material (Mr. Wright, 
 however, has doubted whether even 
 the bricks used in building the 
 castle are Eoman), and possibly on 
 the site of some Eoman building of 
 importance. (^See the discussion in 
 the ' Quart. Eev.,' No. 193). " Col- 
 chester Castle i.a indeed the largest 
 Nonn. keep in this country, being 
 double the size of the White Tower 
 of London. The solidity is extra- 
 ordinary; the whole of the ground 
 story, and 2 of its 4 angular towers 
 up to the second story, being per- 
 fectly solid, and it is difficult to 
 imagine why such superior labour 
 should have been bestowed upon this 
 position (Colchester) above any other. 
 We must remember, however, that 
 we have but few remains of the 1100 
 Norm, castles of the reign of Stephen, 
 and it may well be that many of them, 
 long since utterly destroyed, equalled 
 the great castle of Colchester, or even 
 exceeded it.'' — Quart. Rev. The 
 walls, 1 2 ft. thick, are of a rubble of 
 claystone, Caen oolite, and Kentish 
 rag, intermixed with tiles derived 
 from older Eoman edifices, and dis- 
 
 C if 
 
34 
 
 Uonte 2. — Colcl tester : Castle; Museum. Sect. 1. 
 
 posed, internally, some of them, in 
 lierring-bonc courses. The entrance, 
 on the S. side and ground floor 
 is enriched Norm., with grooves 
 for a portcullis. On the rt. of the 
 entrance is a recessed chamber, a 
 staircase leading into vaults, and 
 a well 5 ft. diameter and 45 ft. 
 deep. On the 1, an ample wind- 
 ing stair leads to the main floor of the 
 S. front, and to the top of the walls, 
 along which it is possible to walk. 
 On the main floor is a large chamber, 
 now occupied by a library, founded 
 by Samuel Harsnett, successively 
 Bp. of Chichester and Norwich, and 
 finally Abp. of York, died 1631 (see 
 Chigv)eU, Ete. 10) ; and containing a 
 chimney-piece of carved wood, — and 
 the Chapel, a vaulted room with a 
 semicircular apse, which projects at 
 the S.E. angle of the keep. It is 
 lighted by Norm, loops, deeply re- 
 cessed, and was used as an armoury 
 for the militia until it was appro- 
 priated to the Esses Archteologists 
 by the late C. J. Bound, Esq. On 
 the ground-floor of this S. side is 
 the vaulted dungeon in which Lucas 
 and Lisle were confined before their 
 execution. (This took place "upon 
 a green spot of ground on the N. 
 side of the Castle, a few paces from 
 the wall ; " and a tradition, believed 
 in Evelyn's time, and showing the 
 popular view, aftirmed that no grass 
 would grow on the spot). On the 
 ^vall at the S.W. angle, is a remark- 
 able circular turret or watch-tower, 
 which has been regarded as especially 
 Roman, and as having once contained 
 a greatly honoured statue of Claudius. 
 But there can be little doubt that it 
 is Norm., like the rest of the Castle, 
 which is said to have been founded 
 by Eudo, "Dapifer" or "High 
 Steward " to the Conqueror, and pro- 
 bably dates from his reign or that of 
 William Rufus. The Empress Maud 
 granted it to the first De Vere. In 
 1215 it held out for John against the 
 Barons, but in 1216 was taken by 
 Louis of France. 
 
 It has (as has been said) been 
 doubted whether the bricks used 
 in building the Castle are Roman 
 or Norm. ; but Roman mortar may 
 be seen ndhering to some of them ; 
 a tolerably sure proof of theu' origin. 
 The chimneys running up through 
 the walls should be noticed. The 
 court, with its trees and ivy is pic- 
 turesque ; a sycamore of some size is 
 growing on the top of the wall, near 
 the circular turret. 
 
 The Museum of the Essex Archseol. 
 Soe. in the chapel of the Castle, is 
 approached by a modern corridor, 
 running along the interior of the S. 
 side. In this corridor is arranged 
 a very fine collection of shells and 
 fossils. The Museum is rich in relics 
 of Roman Camulodunum. Among 
 the most important is a * sphinx, nhout 
 2 ft. high, in oolite, brooding over and 
 crouching upon the remains of a 
 human victim which she had de- 
 stroyed and torn. Above the breasts 
 the figure is a winged female ; below, 
 the body and paps are canine ; the 
 hinder parts and the arms or paws 
 are those of a lion. It was found 
 while digging the foundation for the 
 Essex and Colchester Hospital in 
 1821. A very similar sphinx, found 
 at Thorda in Hungary, is figured 
 in the 'Transactions of the Essex 
 Archseol. Society.' Both may per- 
 haps be regarded as emblems of the 
 great riddle — Death ; — though it has 
 been suggested that the sphinx may 
 have been the emblem of the city, 
 since some coins of Cunobelin struck 
 here have a sphinx on their reverse. 
 Especial attention should also be 
 given to the ' Colchester Vase,' of red 
 clay, coated with brown — a species of 
 ware made at Durobrivse (Castor in 
 Northamptonshire.) This vase is 
 ornamented with bas-reUefs repre- 
 senting gladiators in the arena ; and 
 the inscription scratched over their 
 heads runs " Secundus Mario Memu 
 N. Sac. Villi. Valentinu Legiouia 
 XXX.;" — the interpretation of 
 which is doubtful. The vase had 
 
te 
 
 SSEXi 
 
 Route 2. — Colcliester : Churches. 
 
 35 
 
 been used as a cinerary urn, and 
 was found in 1853 at West Lodge. 
 Here is also a collection of fine 
 bronzes bequeathed to the corpora- 
 tion by H. Vint, Esq., of St. Marys 
 Lodge; — among them a small head 
 of Silenus, and a bust of Caligula, 
 should esi^ecially be noticed. Both 
 were found in 1845, on the line 
 of railway between Colchester and 
 Ipswich. An enormous earthenware 
 wine vase 4 ft. 3 in. high, was found 
 in the Castleyard. The cases of glass 
 and pottery, and those containing 
 lesser articles discovered in dilferent 
 parts of the town and neighbourhood, 
 well deserve examination. Observe 
 also the drawing of a very singular 
 collection of Roman (or Roman- 
 British) figiu'es found in the garden 
 of Mr. Joslin, Beverley Road, They 
 rejoresent men seated and holding 
 scrolls, — apes, hares, lions, &c., and 
 seem to have been arranged in a 
 circle round the interment, (The 
 Lares — 'dii minuti,' — and the tute- 
 lary genii of men and places, a class 
 nearly related to them, were some- 
 times represented under very gro- 
 tesque forms. Those of dogs and 
 serpents were common. The bronze 
 figure of a ' lar ' discovered at Hercu- 
 laneum represents a little old man, 
 sitting on the ground, with his knees 
 up to his chin, a huge head, ass's 
 ears, a long beard, and a roguish 
 face.) 
 
 Before leaving the Castle, the 
 visitor should walk round the ex- 
 teriori He will thus gain a better 
 idea of its size and massive strength. 
 
 Near the S.E. corner of the town, 
 outside the walls, stand the ruins of 
 *SL BotolpKs Priory Ch. The priory 
 (for Augustinian Canons) was founded 
 by a certain Ernulph in 1103, and 
 completed in 1116, A bull of Pas- 
 chal II, gave it the ijrecedcnce of 
 every other house of its order in 
 England, Its ch. was ded. to St, Bo- 
 tolph. (St. Botolph, greatly honoured 
 throughout the Eastern counties, 
 founded a monastery at a place called 
 
 Icanhoe, in the year G54 (' Sax. Chron.' 
 ad. ami). Icanhoe is perhaps Boston 
 — Botulph's town — in Lincolnshire), 
 The remains of the ch, consist of the 
 W, front and part of the nave,— all 
 Norm., and probably part of the 
 original building. Much Roman tile 
 is used throughout. The W, front 
 has 3 portals, — that in the centre 
 receding in 5 orders. Between the 
 portals are lofty and shallow blind 
 arches in brick. A double tier of 
 intersecting brick arches rises above 
 the portals ; and in the gable was a 
 circ. window, with narrow round- 
 headed lights on either side. (This 
 front is engraved in Britten's ' Archit, 
 Antiq.') Within, a portion of the 
 nave arcade remains, with the wall 
 above it (,6 bays S., 3 N.). The circ. 
 piers are built of rubble, mixed with 
 Roman brick. Above was a tri- 
 forium, with large open arches, re- 
 sembling that of Norwich Cathedi-al. 
 
 Scarcely a fragment of the do- 
 mestic buildiDgs remains. Their 
 destruction, and the havoc in the 
 ch., were the work of the cannon of 
 Fairfax, in battery, during the siege 
 of 1648, upon the heights of Wiven- 
 hoe. Afterwards the Parliamen- 
 tarians were posted in the Priory 
 Gardens, near enough to bandy words 
 and stones with the sentinels on the 
 town walls. 
 
 A new St. Botolph's Ch., intended 
 to conform to the character of the old 
 ch., has been built close by the ruins; 
 it is of light-coloured brick, and is 
 eminently unsatisfactory. 
 
 Not far distant, on an eminence, 
 stands St. John's Abbey Gate, thd 
 last relic of an extensive Benedictine 
 Monastery, founded by Eudo Dapi- 
 fer, "the High Steward," in 1096. 
 Its chief was one of the 24 mitred 
 barons of England. This gateway 
 is flanked by 4 turrets, and appears 
 to be of the 15th cent. The sides 
 are of brick, the front of flints neatly 
 squared, the window-frames and the 
 ornriments generally of ashlar. 
 
 The last abbot was hanged at hia 
 
86 
 
 Itoute 2» — Colcliester : Exterior of the Walls. Sect. 1. 
 
 own gate for contumacy in refusing 
 to acknowledge the royal supremacy. 
 The Lucases bought the place and 
 there resided, until they, in their 
 turn, were pillaged and put to death 
 by Fairfax and liis followers. During 
 the siege the gatehouse was a Koyalist 
 outwork, and battered accordingly. 
 Upon its fall the besiegers ransacked 
 the adjacent Cli. of St. Giles and the 
 Lucas burying-pluce, and exercised 
 the full licence of soldiery upon the 
 ancestors of the Koyalist General. 
 Here (in St. Giles's Ch.), after the 
 execution, the bodies of Lucas and 
 Lisle were secretly buried under the 
 N. aisle. After the Eestoration their 
 funeral rites were publicly solem- 
 nised, and a j^lain black slab, the only 
 thing worth noting at present in the 
 eh., was laid over their remains. 
 Charles, who bore his own trials 
 with sufficient fortitude, is said to 
 have " burst into a flood of tears " 
 when lie heard of the death of these 
 his gallant adherents. 
 
 Headgate-street jDreserves in its 
 name alone the memorial of the 
 ancient " Porta Capitalis." Fairfax 
 assaulted this gate the day after his 
 arrival before the town. The gar- 
 rison sallied, were driven in, and 
 hotly pursued ; Lord Capel, by re- 
 peated charges of horse, at last secured 
 their retreat, and himself fastened 
 the gate in the face of the enemy. 
 This was the bold royalist of whom, 
 alluding to his arms, a lion in a field 
 gules semee of crosses, it was said — 
 
 Here, lion like, undaunted Capel stood, 
 Beset by crosses in a field of blood. 
 
 St. Johns Green overlooks the 
 greater part of the town, and was, 
 during the siege, the site of the 
 most destructive of the besiegers' 
 batteries. 
 
 TJie tower of Trinity Ch. (ap- 
 proached by Pelham Lane, rt. in 
 descending the High-street), will in- 
 terest the architei;tural antiquary. 
 It is chiefly constructed of tiles, 
 similar to t:iose cm[)loycd in Eoman 
 
 works, witli " long and short work " 
 and plaster mouldings. The door- 
 way has a straight-lined arch, 
 wrought in tiles ; and tliere is no 
 apparent reason why the tower should 
 not date from a period anterior to 
 the Norm. Conquest. The rest of 
 this ch. is Perp. 
 
 By skirting the street called Bal- 
 kerne, or Balcon-lane, the exterior of 
 the toion wall may be seen, and, with 
 some offence to the nose from sub- 
 mural pigsties, may bo examined. 
 The walls include about 108 acres, 
 and are built of septaria, or " cement 
 stones," from the Harwich coast, with 
 bonding courses of tile. The whole 
 circuit may be traced. (See ante. 
 An ample notice of tlie present con- 
 dition of the walls of Colchester, by 
 Dr. P. M. Duncan, with drawings 
 and measurements, will be found 
 in the 'Transactions of the Essex 
 Archaeological Society'), Close to the 
 Ch. of St. Manfs on the Walls, which 
 occupies the highest ground in the 
 town, was a postern, now marked by 
 a flight of steps. Here is a very 
 massive fragment of the wall well 
 worth notice. It serves as the wall 
 of the ch.-yd. During the siege the 
 royalists had a battery in this ch.-yd. ; 
 and a one-eyed gunner in the tower, 
 with "a brass saker," singled out 
 and shot so many persons in the 
 trenches, that the battery on St. 
 John's Green, when thrown up, was 
 directed mainly against this tower, 
 which at last fell and killed the 
 gunner in its ruins. The ch. lay in 
 ruins from 1648 to 1713, and in 1729 
 the massive stone tower received its 
 upper 12 ft. of brickwork. Within 
 is a statue of John Eebow, merchant 
 of Colchester, d. 1699. 
 
 Further up the lane, on the crown 
 of nearly the highest ground in the 
 old town, is the principal bastion, 
 called " the Balcon," and known also 
 as Colking's Castle, or more properly 
 the Castle of King Coel. 
 
 " King Coel" is the great legendary 
 hero of Colchester, and his name, ac- 
 
Essex. Boide 2. — Colchester: Sistory of tJie Siege. 
 
 zf 
 
 cording to the local tradition, is re- 
 tained in that of the town. (This, 
 however, is no doubt "Colonia3 Cas- 
 trnm " — the ' ' Chester " of the colony 
 — from which latter the river was 
 also named). "The Britons seem 
 to have long clung to the flattering 
 notion that the city of Cunobelin 
 stiH continued to be the seat of a 
 native monarch, and handed down 
 from generation to generation the 
 list of chieftains who were reputed 
 to have still exercised some sort of 
 sovereignty over their people. From 
 Cunobelin, according to these tra- 
 ditions, were descended an Arviragus, 
 a Marius, a Coillus, and a Lucius. 
 . . . The island, after the usurpa- 
 tion of Carausius and his successors, 
 w%s surrendered to the Eomans by 
 Coel, styled Duke of Kaercolvin, or 
 Colchester, in return for which 
 service he was allowed to retain tlie 
 nominal sovereignty in Britain, and 
 has become renowned as the ' Old 
 King Cole' of popular song. On 
 his dying soon afterwards, the Brit- 
 ish legends went on to declare 
 that Constantius the senator, the 
 representative of the Roman power 
 in the island, received the crown of 
 Coel, but only in virtue of marriage 
 with his daugliter Helena ; and Col- 
 chester has hence enjoyed the rejDU- 
 tation of giving birth to Constantino, 
 tlie fii'st Christian emperor. There 
 is no trace, however, of Constantius 
 having been in Britain at all before 
 the year 296, at which time his son 
 was 24 years old ; and the most cre- 
 dible writers assert that his consort 
 was not a Briton but a Bithynian. 
 We leave the good citizens of Col- 
 chester in possession of their arms, 
 ' a cross iuragled between 4 crowns,' 
 in token of Helena's invention of the 
 cross of Christ : but we cannot allow 
 that they have any historical title to 
 them." — Quart. Rev, 
 
 The garden of the Old Crutched 
 Friars, just within the N.E. angle of 
 the town walls, is converted into a 
 
 Botanic Garden. Here is one of the 
 best preserved bits oftlie wall. 
 
 The siege of Colchester is so well 
 known an event in English history, 
 and so frequently brought to the 
 memory of the stranger in this town, 
 that a very brief notice of it will not 
 be out of place here. 
 
 The year 1648 witnessed the last 
 and most severe struggles of the 
 royalist party. The Kentish forces, 
 defeated under Goring, at Maidstone, 
 nevertheless succeeded in forming a 
 junction with those of Essex under 
 Lord Capel, Sir Chas. Lucas, and Sir 
 Geo. Lisle ; the whole numbering 
 4000 men. Fairfax, following hard, 
 forced them to take refuge in Col- 
 chester, a town without regular for- 
 tifications, and which, tlioroughly 
 hostile to the royal cause, had re- 
 peatedly supported that of the Par- 
 liament with men and money. The 
 royalists forced their way into the 
 town. On the next day Faii-fax 
 pitched his camp in the suburb of 
 Lexden, called a surrender, which 
 was derided, and made an unsuc- 
 cessful assault, as related, upon the 
 Headgate. His reception taught him 
 caution, and he sat down regularly 
 before the place. 
 
 Colchester at that time was, in 
 military phrase, utterly untenable ; 
 but the country was hostile to the 
 Eoyalists, and retreat therefore im- 
 practicable. To 10 days' provision 
 found in the town, a large and sea- 
 sonable addition was brought in from 
 the suburb of the Hythe, and, by vari- 
 ous dashing sallies, sheep and cattle 
 were procured. The garrison also 
 gained possession of a store of gun- 
 powder, equally indispensable. For 
 2 months the besiegers augmented 
 tlicir works and battered the place, 
 disturbed only by occasional sallies. 
 Famine then began within the walls. 
 The meat and grain failed. The 
 generals shared with the common 
 soldiers the flesh of the horses, kept 
 alive to this extremity upon leaves, 
 bark of trees, and thatch. The side 
 
88 
 
 Itoiite 2. — Cvlcliester : Trade. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 of a dog sold for six shillings ; and 
 to the other miseries of want was 
 added the clamour of the starving 
 townspeoijle, frequent and loud, for 
 surrender. In their distress the 
 garrison offered to throw open their 
 gates, and dared Fairfax to enter and 
 take possession. But Fairfax, though 
 not deficient in courage, was far too 
 prudent a general to attack desperate 
 men, who also were becoming daily 
 "weakened by famine. Twice the 
 royalists failed to cut their way 
 through the lines. As the siege 
 advanced Fairfax made his terms 
 harder, find finally refused to treat, 
 demanding from the superior officers 
 a surrender at discretion, promising 
 life only to the common soldiers. 
 
 At last came tidings of the over- 
 throw by Cromwell of the northern 
 Eoyalists, under Sir Marmaduke 
 Langdalc and the Duke of Hamil- 
 ton; with this ended all chance of 
 relief. In consequence, on the 27th 
 August, after 76 days' siege, having 
 eaten up nearly 300 horses, with one 
 day's food and a barrel and a half of 
 powder in their stores, the garrison 
 laid down their arms at discretion, 
 and Sir Thomas Fairfax marched 
 into the town. A coimcil of war was 
 held. The parliamentary general, 
 not naturally bloodthirsty, is sup- 
 posed to have been influenced by the 
 bold, crafty, and implacable Ireton. 
 Tlie same evening, without hearing 
 what they had to say, Lucas and 
 Lisle were led into a small open 
 green a few yards N. of the castle 
 wall, where they found three files of 
 musketeers drawn up. The sentence 
 upon the 2 generals was "sjieedy 
 death." Lucas, confronting tiiem, 
 said, "I have often looked death in 
 the face in the field of battle, and 
 you shall now see how I dare to 
 die." After remaining a few minutes 
 upon his knees in earnest prayer, he 
 rose, threw open his vest, and said, 
 "See, I am ready for you; rebels, 
 do your worst!" lie fell with four 
 mortal wounds. When Lisle was 
 
 brought out, he knelt and kissed 
 the body of his friend. Afterwards 
 directing the musketeers to stand 
 nearer, one of them said, " I'll war- 
 rant, Sir, we liit you." He answered, 
 smiling, " I have been nearer you 
 when you have missed me," and im- 
 mediately fell. Ireton witnessed the 
 whole. Fairfax escaped the sight, 
 though not the shame. The soldiery 
 were pillaged and stripped, and some 
 transported to the plantations. The 
 townsfolk, though no friends to the 
 king's party, Avere fined 12,000Z., 
 the payment of part of which fell 
 to the share of the Dutch merchants 
 of the "Bays" and "Says" trade. 
 The town indeed suftered terribly 
 from this long siege. Evelyn de- 
 cribes it as 'ragged and factions, 
 swarmino; with sectaries.' 
 
 The chief dependence of the town 
 is in the supply of the surroimding 
 agricultural districts. Its manufac- 
 tures are not important. There are 
 two silk mills, Colchester was long 
 famous for its manufacture of Bays 
 (Baize) and Says, introduced by 
 Dutch refugees, driven from Holland 
 by Alva, in the reign of Elizabeth. 
 At one time, before the rise of the 
 cotton trade, this manufacture is said 
 to have produced to the town 35,000Z. 
 weekly. It languished during the 
 past century, and no trace of it now 
 remains. The movement and stir of 
 Colchester have however been much 
 increased of late years, by the estab- 
 lishment of a permanent camp (of 
 wooden huts) S, of the town ; and 
 by the completion of the large and 
 fine cavalry barracks, said to be the 
 finest in England. About 3000 
 troops are usually stationed here. 
 
 The British coasts have been fa- 
 mous for Oysters from the time of 
 the Eomans to our own, and among 
 British oysters those of Colchester 
 are thought by discerning ej^icures 
 to bear the palm. Massinger's ' Jus- 
 tice Greedy ' commences his day 
 with "a barrel of Colchester ova- 
 
E 
 
 SSEX. 
 
 Houte 2. — Manningiree, 
 
 39 
 
 ters." They are taken iu the Colne 
 and fattened in pits to the dimen- 
 sions of a standard silver oyster 
 borne by the water-baiHfF, and pre- 
 served among the corporation " Joca- 
 lia," with a silver mace, wassail-bowl, 
 and gold chain. The exclnsive right 
 to this fi.'^hery is held by the town 
 under a charter of Kichard I. It 
 appears from the town records that 
 occasional horse-loads of oysters were 
 considered no unacceptable present 
 by Walsingham, Leicester, and other 
 courtiers of the virgin Queen. At 
 the present time the oyster trade 
 with London employs some hundreds 
 of small craft. From oOOOZ. to 
 10,000/. worth of oysters are annually 
 sold out of the Colne. TJie value of 
 the spat or spawn in the river is 
 estimated at 20,000?. In April or 
 May, when first cast in, it resembles 
 a drop from a tallow candle ; iu 24 
 hours the shell begins to form. The 
 Colne is navigable to the Hythe 
 about 1^ m. below the town for 
 vessels of 150 tons, and hence Col- 
 chester is a bonded port. 
 
 There is a very large distillery at 
 the Hythe. (For the rly. from Col- 
 chester to Brightlingsea and Walton- 
 on-the-Naze, see Ete. 6). 
 
 Bere Ch., close to Colchester, has 
 an early Dec. W. portal, very excel- 
 lent in detail and mouldings. Some 
 early Ferp. windows are also notice- 
 able. 
 
 The rly. from Colchester follows 
 nearly the line of tlie old tm-npike- 
 road. After passing 
 
 55^ m. Ardleigh, we reach 
 59 m. Manningtree Stat., near the 
 Stour, and about \ m. W. of the 
 town of Manningtree. {Inn : White 
 Hart). Pop. witii its E. suburb of 
 Mistley, 2420. The town stands on 
 the estuary of the Stour, here acces- 
 sible for vessels of 250 tons, and 
 carries on a large trade in corn, malt, 
 and coals. In the Ch., rebuilt 1G16, 
 is a monument to Thomas Ormond, 
 
 burnt during the Marian persecution 
 for refusing to attend mass. 
 
 Mathew Plopkins, the famous 
 witch-finder, was a native of Man- 
 ningtree. In 1644 he and others 
 were commissioned by Parliament 
 to " perform a circuit " for the dis- 
 covery of witches. They went 
 through Suffolk, Norfolk, and Hunt- 
 ingdon; and hanged 16 persons at 
 Yarmouth, 40 at Bury, beside others 
 in Suffolk, to the number of 60. 
 
 " Has not tliis present Parliament 
 A ledger to the Devil sent, 
 Fully empowered to treat about 
 Finding revolted witches out ? 
 And has he not within one year 
 Hanged three score of them in a shire ?" 
 Hudibras. 
 
 Hopkins began in March, 1644, 
 by the discovery of " 7 or 8 of that 
 horrible sect of witches," living at 
 Manningtree, who always on Friday 
 nights had their meeting close to 
 his house. He was at last tried as 
 lie had tried others, and flung into 
 tlie water with his thumbs and great 
 toes tied together. He swam; and 
 so — 
 
 " proved himself a witch, 
 And made a rod for his own breech." 
 
 His ' Discovery of Witches,' in 
 which he answers objections, was 
 printed in 1647; and 100 copies 
 were reprinted in 1837, in a collec- 
 tion relating to witchcraft, by J. K. 
 Smith. 
 
 The beast-fair here was once very 
 famous. Prince Hal calls Falstatf 
 " that roasted Manningtree ox with 
 the pudding in his belly." rt. From 
 hence is a branch rly. to Harwich 
 (Kte. 7). 
 
 [Lawfonl Ch., 1| m. S.W. of Man- 
 ningtree, has a curious quatrefoil of 
 red clay in the gable above the E. 
 window. There are some resembling 
 it in the N. wall of Frittenden ch., 
 Kent, of the 14th cent.] 
 
 At Manningtree we cross the 
 
46 
 
 Moute 3. — London to Brainire6. 
 
 Sect; I. 
 
 Stour and enter Suffolk. For the 
 line from this point to Ipswich, see 
 Suffolk, Rte. 1. 
 
 ROUTE 3. 
 
 LONDON TO BRAINTREE. BRAINTREE 
 BY DUN MOW TO BISHOPS STORT- 
 FORD. 
 
 {Great Eastern Railway. 
 Branch lines.) 
 
 The Great Eastern railway is 
 followed as far as Witham Stat. (Ete. 
 2), where lines branch N. to Brain- 
 tree and S. to Maldon. (For the 
 latter, see the following route). 
 
 (a) Witham to Braintree. 
 
 The distance from Witham to 
 Braintree is 6| m. The line follows 
 the valley of the Brain river. 
 
 Between Witham and White Not- 
 ley Stat, is 
 
 1. FaulJdjourn Hall (Eev. W. Bul- 
 lock), the line old seat of the 
 Bullocks. The liouse is of brick and 
 of various dates, the front having 
 been reconstructed about 40 years 
 since. The most ancient portion is a 
 tower at the N.E. angle, of the early 
 part of the loth centy., although the 
 
 windows have been altered. In the 
 park is a cedar measuring 19 ft. in 
 girth. The Ch., dedicated to St. 
 Germanus, is Norm., the walls and 
 windows being the same as when 
 erected 700 years ago. There are 
 brasses for Henry Fortescue (d. 
 1576) and his second wife. The 
 lately built rectory house is unusually 
 good and effective. 
 
 Faulkbourn became part of the 
 Honour of Gloucester, by the mar- 
 riage of its heiress to Robert, Earl 
 of Gloucester, natural son of Hen. I. 
 It became the property of Sir Ed- 
 ward Bullock about 1G37. At 
 
 WJiite Notley (Stat.), the ch. has 
 late Dec. portions. 
 
 [About 2 J m. E. is Rivenhall, where 
 in the modernised ch. is some curi- 
 ous ancient stained glass brought 
 from France 30 years since. Here 
 Thomas Tusser, author of ' Five 
 Hundred Points of Good Husbandry,' 
 was born about 1515; and Ih m. 
 S.W. is Fairsted, where he tried 
 his ' Five hundred points of Good 
 Husbandry' with little success. He 
 came from Norfolk — 
 
 "To seek more health, 
 To house mj' head at Fairsted, 
 
 AVliere w hiles 1 dwelt. 
 The tithing life, the tithing strife, 
 
 Through tithing ill of Jack and Jill, 
 The dailj' pays, the miry ways 
 
 Too long 1 felt.' "J 
 
 The next Stat, is at 
 
 Bidford (Stat.). 
 
 On 1. Black Notley was the birth- 
 place of John Ray, the naturalist 
 (1627), son of the village blacksmith, 
 and educated at Braintree school. 
 Hither he retired from Cambridge ; 
 and here died "in a house of his own 
 building" and was buried, llOi. 
 Compton, Bishop of London, erected 
 a monument, still to be seen, over his 
 grave in the cli.-yd. (This tomb, as 
 an inscrii^tion on the S. side records, 
 was restored in 1777, and again in 
 1792. There is an inscription on 
 the N. side, of later date, giving the 
 date of Ray's birth and death as 
 
Essex. 
 
 Houte 3 . — Braintree — Boclcing. 
 
 41 
 
 Nat. 29 Nov. 1628; oh. 17 Jan. 170g. 
 Below are the words, " avSpcov cttl- 
 (pavcau -rraaa yrj racpos." The dates 
 on the tomb, however, are contra- 
 dieted by the parish register, which 
 in 1627 records the baptism of 
 "John — of Roger and Elizabeth 
 Eay, December 6 ; " and by many 
 letters in the Ray correspondence, 
 which show that Ray's death took 
 l)Iace Jan. 17, 1704.) At Black 
 Notley also was born in 1570, Wil- 
 liam Bedel, Bishop of Kilmore, no 
 less eminent for his learning and 
 piety, than for his simplicity and 
 firmness of character. The living 
 was once held by Dr. Richard 
 Crakanthorp, a celebrated logician 
 and divine (much admired by the 
 Puiitans) who died and was buried 
 here in 1624. 
 
 A short course brings us to 
 
 6 J m. Braintree {Inn: White 
 Hart ; Horn.) Pop. 4620. This is a 
 town chiefly composed of small brick 
 houses built upon high ground above 
 the Brain or Podsbrook river. Once 
 a seat of the Bishops of London, it 
 was erected into a distinct parish in 
 the 13th cent. Much of its ancient 
 prosperity was due to the pilgrims 
 who rested here on their way to 
 Bury or AValsingham. S^t. Michael's 
 Church stands on high ground, with- 
 in an ancient encampment: it has 
 a tower of E. Eng. date, with lofty 
 shingled spire, and is constructed 
 chiefly of flint. The S. aisle is 
 late Perp., and was built from funds 
 raised by the acting of certain 
 mysteries in the ch. — the " play " of 
 St. Swithun in 1523, of St. Andrew 
 in 1525, and of 'Placy Dacy, alias 
 St. Ewestacy' (St. Eustace), in 1534. 
 Tlie ch. has been recently restored, 
 at a very considerable cost. As 
 might be expected in a town ren- 
 dered famous by the long pending 
 suit of the Braintree churcli rate, the 
 Dissenters' Chapels (both here and 
 atBocking), are simcious and promi- 
 nent buildings. The manufacture of 
 
 silk and crape occupies nearly 1000 
 hands; having succeeded to those 
 of woollen and baize introduced by 
 the refugees driven from Flanders 
 by the Did^e of Alva. 
 
 N. of Braintree is Boclcing. Pop. 
 3555. The two towns are nearly 
 united, and form one long street. 
 Bocking is a " Peculiar," the chief 
 over 6 others in Essex and Sufiblk, 
 under the Archbishop of Canterbury, 
 whose commissary is called Dean of 
 Bocking. In the Ch., which is late 
 Dec, are the brasses of John Dore- 
 ward (1420) and his wife Isabella. 
 The knight is in plate-armour, an 
 early example. The ch. has a good 
 massive W. tower (Perp.), well de- 
 serving notice for its detail and pro- 
 portions. There is a fine S. porch, 
 of 2 bays, with windows. The liv- 
 ing was once held by Dr. John 
 Gauden, author of the ' Icon Basi- 
 like,' who on the restoration of 
 Charles II. was rewarded with the 
 bishopric of Exeter, and was after- 
 wards translated to Worcester. 
 
 Guy's Hospital has a considerable 
 estate here. 
 
 [In the Ch. of Bradwell, 4 m. E. of 
 Braintree, is an elaborate Eliza- 
 bethan monument to Sir Anthony 
 and Lady Marney.] 
 
 [5 m. S.W. of Braintree is Little 
 Leighs, where stood a priory of Au- 
 gustinian canons, founded about 1230, 
 by Ralph Gernon, and granted by 
 Henry VIII. to Sir Richard Rich, 
 created Baron Rich by Edw. YI. 
 in 1547. By him the priory was 
 converted into a magnificent palace, 
 with a park of 1200 acres. The 
 place was described by one Dr. 
 Walker, in preaching the funeral 
 sermon for one of Lord Rich's descend- 
 ants as " a secular elysium, a worldly 
 jiaradise, a heaven upon earth." Lord 
 Rich died at Rochford Hall in 1567, 
 possessed of enormous property in 
 Essex. " He was," says Fuller, " a 
 
42 
 
 JRoute 3. — Bayne — Felstead. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 lesser hammer imtler Cromwell, to 
 knock down abbeys, — most of the 
 grants of wliicli lands going througli 
 his liands, no wonder if some stuck 
 to his fingers." (For his monument in 
 Felstead ch,, see post). His de- 
 scendants, under the title of Earls of 
 AVarwiok, upheld the splendours of 
 Little Leighs for a century. 
 
 At the end of the last century 
 the house was sold to Guy's Hospital 
 and pulled down, except a fine brick 
 gateway (dating from 1458 to 1485) 
 with Hanking turrets and chimneys, 
 a porter's lodge and a part of the 
 quadrangle, now a farmhouse. Over 
 the gateway are carved the arms 
 of Rich, with the motto " Garde ta 
 foy." The design and details of 
 the gateway are fine, and well de- 
 serve attention. The original doors 
 remain. 
 
 In the Ch. of Little Leighs (dis- 
 tant about 2 m. from the Priory) is the 
 effigy of a priest wearing the eucha- 
 ristic vestments. It is carved in oak : 
 and except that of the Abbot of 
 Darley in All Saints' Church, Derby, 
 is the only (ancient) example of a 
 wooden ecclesiastical effigy in the 
 kingdom. See a notice by the Rev. 
 F. Spurrell in 'Essex Archajol. 
 Trans.' vol. ii., and ' Archseol. Jour- 
 nal,' No. 69.] 
 
 [The CJi. of Great Leighs (about 
 2 m. distant from that of Little 
 Leighs) has a round tower, and a 
 fine Easter Sepulchre. 
 
 (?j.) Braintree by Dunmow to 
 Bishop's Stortford. 
 
 A branch line of rly. (Great 
 Eastern) between Braintree and 
 Bishop's Stortford, running by Dun- 
 mow, was opened in 1869. Two 
 trains run each way daily. 
 
 The first Stat, beyond Braintree is 
 
 2{ m. Rayne. This place, on the 
 Dunmow road, possessed a chapel 
 dedicated to the Virgin, much fre- 
 
 quented by matrons and mothers 
 before the Reformation. 
 
 Rayne Hall, the ancient mansion 
 of the Capels, Earls of Essex, has 
 long been occupied as a farm-house, 
 but is still interesting. The earlier 
 portion was erected by the Welles 
 family, the later by Sir Giles Capel, 
 about 1530. Sir Giles was the 
 eldest son of William Capel, the 
 wealthy London merchant, who 
 acquired Rayne in 1486. His great 
 wealth was proverbial. " I ask not 
 the store of Cosmas or Capel," writes 
 Alexander Barclay {Eclogues). The 
 ch. of Rayne was rebuilt in 1840. 
 
 61 m. Felstead Stat. The Ch., 
 standing on an eminence, like most 
 in this part of Essex, has portions 
 which have been considered Saxon. 
 
 It contains what was once a splen- 
 did monument to the first Lord Rich, 
 of whom an account has been given 
 in connection with Leigh's Priory. 
 He was the foiinder of a hospital at 
 Felstead, and of the Grammar School, 
 in which Dr. Isaac Barrow, Dr. John 
 Wallis, the mathematician, Richard 
 Cromwell, and two at least (see post) 
 of his brothers were educated. The 
 school was reconstituted by the Court 
 of Chancery, in 1851, and now edu- 
 cates more than 200 boys. The new 
 buildings, completed in 1867, are 
 very conspicuous from the rly. Oliver 
 Cromwell's w^ife was the daughter of 
 Sir James Bourchier, of Felstead ; 
 and it appears from the parish re- 
 gisters that his eldest son Robert 
 was buried here in 1639. It seems 
 probable that he, as well as his 
 brothers Oliver, Richard, and Henry, 
 was educated at the grammar school. 
 The entry of his burial in the re- 
 gister records him as " Robertus 
 Cromwell, filius honorandi viri Mtis. 
 Oliveris Cromwell. . . . Et Robertus 
 fuit eximie pius juvenis, Deum timens 
 supra multos." He died aged 18 ; 
 and when Cromwell, on his death-bed, 
 desired those verses to be read to 
 him from the Epistle to the Philip- 
 pians, in which the Apostle speaks 
 
Essex. 
 
 J^oute 3. — Diinmow : the Fliicli of Bacon. 
 
 43 
 
 of having "learned in whatsoever 
 state he was therewith to be content, 
 for he could do all things through 
 Christ which strengthened him," 
 the Protector said, " That Scripture 
 did once save my life, when my 
 eldest son died, which went as a 
 dagger to my heart — indeed it did." 
 Forster and Carlyle supposed this 
 "eldest son" to have been Oliver. 
 It was really Robert (see an article 
 in the ' Edinburgh Review,' Jan., 
 ISoG). Tlie Protector's family was 
 also connected with the neighbom-- 
 hood of Felstead, by the marriage of 
 his youngest daughter Frances to 
 Robert Rich, grandson and heir of 
 the third Earl of Warwick, wlio died, 
 however, soon after his marriage 
 without succeeding to the title. 
 
 Arthur Wilson, author of the curi- 
 ous, gossiping, and scandalous ' Life 
 of James I.,' is buried in the chancel 
 of Felstead ch. He died steward to 
 the Earl of Warwick. 
 
 Rather more than half a mile be- 
 yond Felstead Stat., and at a dis- 
 tance of 200 or 300,yards to the rt. 
 of the present railway, stood the 
 Priory of Little Dunmow, of which 
 there are still some interesting re- 
 mains. It was founded for Augusti- 
 nian Canons in 1104, by Juga 
 Baynard, sister of Ralph Baynard, 
 the builder of "Baynard's Castle " in 
 London. "The mortified men of 
 this priory," says Fuller, " were 
 sometimes mirthful." Attached to 
 it were lands held by an ancient 
 " custom," originating most probably 
 with Robert Fitz- Walter in the reign 
 of Henry III., by which a Flitch of 
 Bacon could be claimed by any mar- 
 ried couple who had ♦• not repented 
 them, sleeping or waking, of their 
 marriage in a year and a day." The 
 earliest claim recorded in the Cliar- 
 terlary of the priory was in tlie year 
 ]445 : the last claim allowed was in 
 1751, when it is said that Hogarth 
 was present. 
 
 The custom has been revived of 
 late years, but in connection with 
 
 the town of Great Dunmow (see 
 post)^ which has, however, iu reality 
 no more to do with the matter than 
 London or York. The first attempts 
 to revive it were made by Mr. Har- 
 rison Ainsworth, in 1855 and 1857. 
 Another attempt was made by dif- 
 ferent persons in 1869, with very 
 disgraceful accompaniments. It is 
 much to be desired that the custom 
 should be allowed to drop altogether, 
 unless it be conducted under better 
 patronage. A sort of revival, but 
 of a very different character, and with 
 a salutary modification, had been 
 made in 1837, by the Dunmow Agri- 
 cultural Society, which bestowed a 
 gammon of bacon (the gift of a 
 member of the corporation) " upon 
 the married couple, labourer in hus- 
 bandry and his wife, who shall have 
 brought up the greatest number of 
 children, and placed them in respect- 
 able service, without any, or the 
 least parochial relief." This has been 
 continued annually ever since. A 
 custom resembling this old tenure 
 existed at Whichnover (or Wichnor) 
 in Staffordshire (where a wooden 
 flitch hangs still in tbe hall of the 
 manor-house) ; and it was not un- 
 known in France and Germany. Dr. 
 Bell (in Slidkspeare's Puck) asserts 
 that in the Abbey of Weir hung a 
 flitch of bacon, with lines, of which 
 the translation runs : — 
 
 " Is there to be found a married man 
 That in verity declare can 
 That his marriage him doth not rue, 
 'I'hat he haa no fear of his wife for a shrew, 
 He may this bacon for himself down hew." 
 
 * Piers Plowman ' mentions the Dun- 
 mow bacon, and Chaucer has made 
 his Wife of Bath, in her famous Pro- 
 logue, thus refer to it ; — 
 
 " The bacon was not fet for him, I trow, 
 That som men have in Essex at Dunmow." 
 
 The persons claiming the flitch (and 
 the right was extended to all Eng- 
 land) were to kneel humbly before 
 the prior and convent on two stones 
 at the ch. door (which when Fuller 
 
44 
 
 Route 3. — l)unmow : the Oath. 
 
 Sect. t. 
 
 wrote, circ. 1650, were yet to be seen), 
 and there take the following oath :— 
 
 " You shall swear by the custom of our con- 
 fession, 
 That you never made any nuptial trans- 
 
 gre^ision, 
 Since you were married man and wife, 
 By liousehold brawls or contentious strife ; 
 Or otherwise, in bed or at board, 
 Offended each other in deed or word ; 
 Or, since the parish-clerlv said Amen, 
 Wished yourselves unmarried again ; 
 Or, in a twelvemonth and a day. 
 Repented not In thought any way ; 
 But continued true and in desire. 
 As when you join'd hands in holy quire. 
 If to these conditions, without all fear, 
 Of your own accord you will freely swear, 
 A gammon of bacon you shall receive. 
 And bear it hence with love and good leave : 
 For this is our custom at Dunmow well 
 
 known ; 
 Though the sport be ours, the bacon's your 
 own." — Fuller's Worthies. 
 
 This oath, as Morant observes, is 
 " less easily swallowed " than that at 
 Whichnover, which ran thus — 
 
 "Here ye, Sir Philip de Somer- 
 vile. Lord of "Whichenoiir, mayn- 
 teyner and gyver of this Baconne, 
 that I, sythe I wedded my wife, 
 and sythe I hadd hyr in ray kej^yng 
 and at my wylle by a yere and a day 
 after our mariage, I wold not have 
 chaunged for none other, farer ne 
 fowler; rycher ne powrer; ne for 
 none other descended of gretter 
 lynage ; slepyng ne wakyng at noo 
 
 time ; and yf the sayd were 
 
 sole and I sole, I wold take her to be 
 my wyfe before all tlie wymen of 
 the worlde, of what condiciones soever 
 they be, good or evylle, as help me 
 God and hys Seyntys, and tliis flesh 
 and all fleshes." — " Are you not 
 ashamed, madam," writes Walpole to 
 Lady Aylesbury, " never to liave put 
 in your claim ? It is above a year 
 and a day that you have been 
 married, and I never once Ijeard 
 either of you mention a journey to 
 Whichnovre. If you quarrelled at 
 loo every night, you could not quit 
 your pretensions with more inditter- 
 ence." 
 
 The procession of a couple who 
 
 have obtained the flitch (they were 
 carried through the town with the 
 bacon before them), forms the sub- 
 ject of one of Stothard's best pictures. 
 Whether the sow with pigs which 
 (in Devonshire at least) is frequently 
 seen on the carved bosses of ch. roofs, 
 has any possible common origin with 
 the choice of 'bacon' for the Dun- 
 mow custom, and for that of the 
 German Abbey, is uncertain. Ac- 
 cording to Dion. Halicarn. a 'flitch' 
 of bacon was kept in the chief 
 temple at Alba Longa, where ^neas 
 found the white sow and pigs— till 
 the time of Augustus. A flitch of 
 bacon (speckseite) was offered in 
 thunder-storms to Percunnos — the 
 tliunder-god of the old Prussians. 
 {Teftan and Temmes Voltis sagen — 
 quoted by J. Piggott, 'Notes and 
 Queries,' January, 1870.) 
 
 The S. aisle and 5 arches of the 
 nave of the Priory Ch. form the pre- 
 sent Farhli Clmrcli. Under an arch 
 in tlie S. wall near the E. end, is a 
 tomb, said to be that of the foundress. 
 Close to it is the arm-chair in which 
 the happy couple who obtained the 
 flitch were wont to be installed. 
 Near the entrance of the ch. on the 
 N. side are effigies attributed to 
 Sir Walter Fitz-Walter (died 1198) 
 and his 2nd wife IMatilda Bohun, 
 much injured. Between 2 piers, on 
 the N. side is an effigy of Maude, 
 daughter of Kobert Fitzwalter, the 
 great leader of the barons against 
 King John, who is said to have been 
 poisoned for refusing the addresses 
 of that King: — 
 
 " To whom Dunmow no refuge gave at all, 
 Until it gave her body burial." 
 
 87 m. Dunmow Stat. 
 
 Great Dwimow (Inns: Saracen's 
 Head ; Star ; White Lion. Pop. 2976) 
 stands on the Clielmer, which here 
 flows through rich meadoAVs. The 
 town was once celebrated for its 
 manufacture of baize and blankets. 
 The Ch. is spacious, Dec. and Perp., 
 with a lofty tower, above the W. door 
 
Essex. 
 
 JRoiite 3 . — Stehhing — Easton — Thaxted. 
 
 of which are the armorial bearings 
 of jNIortimer, Bohuu, Boiirchicr, and 
 Braybrooke, benefactors to the fabric. 
 The Beaumonts, a branch of the Cole- 
 Orton family, possessed the old brick 
 manor house of Newton Hall near 
 the ch., now fallen to decay. Sir 
 George Beanmont the painter lived 
 here, and here Wilkie and other 
 artists were his guests. The May- 
 nards purchased the manor of Great 
 Dunmow in 1634, and still retain it. 
 
 [At Stehhing, 3 m. N.E. of Dun- 
 mow, is a good Dec. Ch., temp. Ed. II., 
 chiefly noticeable for its chancel 
 arch, which fo'-ms a screen of stone 
 between nave and chancel. It has 
 been much mutilated ; but consisted 
 of three openings with slender 
 clustered columns, within the en- 
 closing arch : and in the central 
 opening, springing from the capitals 
 of the columns, was a canopy, now 
 destroyed. The inner arches were 
 foliated. The shafts were pared 
 down in the 15th cent, to admit a 
 Perp. screen of wood. The whole 
 design, very beautiful in itself, is 
 unusual, but there is a similar arch 
 in Great Bard field Church, about 5 
 m. N. of Stebbing.] 
 
 [2| m. N.W. from Great Dunmow 
 is Easton Lodge (Miss Maynard ; 
 the peerage became extinct in 1865), 
 which (notwithstanding various al- 
 terations at different periods, and a 
 fire which did great mischief in 1817) 
 remains nearly as it was built by 
 Henry Maynard, in the reign of Eliza- 
 beth (1595). It somewhat resembles 
 Holland House, and is said to be from 
 the designs of John Thorpe. Like 
 Holland House, it has a central 
 belfry and flanking cupolas ; a 
 goodly assemblage of grotesque 
 gables and oriel windows ; and 
 richly decorated, massive stacks of 
 chimneys. 
 
 In Little Easton Church, on the 
 edge of the park, lie several of the 
 Bourchiers, Earls of Essex, ancient 
 
 Lords of Easton. Beneath a rich 
 Perp. canopy, upon an altar tomb, 
 are the very fine engraved and 
 coloured brasses of Earl Henry, K.G. 
 (the first Earl of Essex of the Bour- 
 chier line). Lord Treasurer to Henry 
 VI. and Edward IV. (d. 1483) ; and 
 Isabel Plantagenet his wife, aunt of 
 Edward IV. Upon his left knee is 
 the Garter, and he wears the mantle. 
 This is one of five brasses which 
 remain of Kts. belonging to the Order 
 of the Garter. His Countess wears 
 a collar of suns and roses, the badge 
 of Edward IV. Eound the plates 
 have been smaller brasses bearing 
 the Fetterlock of the House of York, 
 and the Bourchier Knot. The feet 
 of each figure rest upon an eagle, and 
 angels support the heads. Here also 
 are Severn 1 Maynard monuments, the 
 chief being an altar tomb bearing 
 the eftigies of Sir Henry, secretary 
 to Lord Burleigh and founder of 
 the family, and his wife, 1610 — a 
 noble monument. Another most ela- 
 borate monument, 20 ft. high and 
 12 ft. broad, to William 2nd Lord 
 Maynard and his wife (d. 1698), is 
 the chef-d'oeuvre of Pierce.] 
 
 [^Thaxted, about 7 m. N., is best 
 visited from Dunmow. The Ch. is 
 worth seeing. 
 
 At Tiltey, about .4 m. from Dun- 
 mow, and rather more than half-way 
 between that place and Thaxted, are 
 the remains of a Cistercian Abbey, 
 founded in 1133 by Maurice Fitz 
 Geofiry. The situation, in a valley 
 watered by the Chelmer, resembles 
 that of most Cistercian houses, which 
 were generally established on low 
 ground, near a river. Kemains of 
 part of the cloister-wall exist. The 
 present Ch. of the parish (no part of 
 which was included in the Abbey 
 Church) is Dec, with remarkable 
 niches in the eastern buttresses. 
 The window tracery ' especially that 
 of the fine E. window) and the 
 carved stalls deserve notice. On 
 the floor are brasses for Gerard 
 
46 
 
 jRoute 4. — London to Maldon. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Danet, counsellor of Henry VIII. 
 (d. 1520) and wife; George Medley 
 (d. 1562) aud wife ; and an inscrip- 
 tion, with four Latin verses, for 
 Abbot Thomas of Thakley, c. 1460. 
 3 m. beyond Tiltey we reach 
 Thaxted, a town of 2302 Inhab., 
 situated at the sources of tlie Chel- 
 mer; and forming part of the 
 ancient honour of Clare, settled on 
 Queen Catherine of Arragon by 
 Henry YIII. The Smijths of Hill 
 Hall obtained the manor about 1600. 
 The Ch., spacious and handsome, is 
 one of the finest and most interesting 
 in Essex. It is of late Perp. cha- 
 racter, 183 ft. long. The tower and 
 spire, rebuilt 1822, at a cost of lOOOZ., 
 are 180 ft. high, and are a landmark 
 for all tlie surrounding country. In 
 the chancel are the cognizances of 
 Edward IV. Elizabeth, a daughter 
 of Gilbert the Eed, Earl of Clare, by 
 Joan of Acres, daughter of Edward 
 I., was a benefactress to the ch. Her 
 son, Wm. de Bm-gh, Earl of Ulster, 
 built the south aisle before 1340. His 
 daughter's husband, Lionel Duke of 
 Clarence, added the S. porch, on 
 which his coronet is carved, between 
 1362 and 1368. The N. aisle and part 
 of the transept were built by Edmund 
 Earl of March, 1380. Eclward IV. 
 completed the chancel, and probably 
 the fine N. porch, which bears his 
 arms. Edward, last Earl of March, 
 who died 1424, is said to have built 
 the tower. The pulpit and font are 
 fine, and the carved bosses of the 
 roof should be noticed. There are 
 some good specimens of ancient 
 domestic architecture in Thaxted, 
 especially the old building called the 
 Guildhall. Samuel Purchas, compiler 
 of the well-known ' Purchas his Pil- 
 grimage,' was born here, 1677. 
 
 1 m. S.W. of Thaxted is Horeham 
 Hall (F. G. West, Esq.), a noble 
 mansion of Henry VII.'s time, with 
 square tower and octagonal stair- 
 case, a fine hall and handsome bay 
 windows. Several of the gables are 
 
 crowstepped, and the chimneys are 
 of ornamental brick. The house was 
 built by Sir John Cutt, " Under- 
 Treasurer of England," who died in 
 1520. He is irreverently called " Old 
 Cutte " by Leland, who describes 
 Horeham Hall as " a very sumptuous 
 house . . . with a goodly pond or 
 lake by it." The manor of Thaxted 
 was granted to Sir John Cutt by 
 Queen Catherine of Arragon. The 
 Princess Elizabeth resided at Hore- 
 liam Hall during part of the reign of 
 Mary, and visited it after she had 
 herself succeeded to the throne.] 
 
 Skirting Easton Park, the line 
 proceeds to 12f m. Taheley Stat., and 
 thence along the edge of Hatfield 
 forest to 
 
 18 m. Sis1i02)*s Stortford. (See 
 Kte. 11.) There is nothing between 
 Dunmow and Bishop's Stortford 
 calling for particular notice. 
 
 ROUTE 4. 
 
 LONDON TO MALDON. 
 
 For the rte. as far as Witham, see 
 Rte. 2. From Witham a branch 
 line runs rt. to Maldon. 
 
 The distance is 5f m. 
 
 The Brain river falls into the 
 Blackwater somewhat N. of Wickham 
 Bishops (Stat.) The hall of the 
 
Essex. 
 
 Moute 3. — Maldon. 
 
 47 
 
 Bishops of London, who lield this 
 place before the Conquest, is pulled 
 down. The old eh. is deserted, but 
 a new one has been built on the hill 
 at the sole cost of Miss Leigh. 
 
 Langford (Stat.). The ch. is early 
 Norm. 
 
 Maldon (Stat.) Inns: King's 
 Head, in High Street ; Duke of 
 Wellington; Blue Boar. 
 
 This ancient borough and port 
 (Pop. 4785), stands on a steep 
 eminence on the S. side of the 
 Chelmer river. The river Pant or 
 the Blackwater descending from the 
 N. — (it rises near Saffron Walden) — 
 after receiving the river Brain 
 below Witham, joins the Chelmer 
 just below Maldon. (The river is 
 called the Pant in the upper part of 
 its course, and becomes the Black- 
 water lower down. Possibly one 
 name is Saxon ; the other (Black- 
 water) that by which it was known 
 to the Danes). Both streams flow 
 between Maldon and Heybridge 
 (Pop. 1476), its suburb, on tlie N. 
 Maldon has some coasting trade, 
 and the river is navigable for vessels 
 of 200 tons burthen. 
 
 Maldon was long regarded as the 
 Roman Camulodunum ; but it is 
 now certain that Colchester is the 
 real site of the Eoman colony. Ro- 
 man coins have been found at 
 Maldon ; but there is no proof of the 
 existence of any peiTnanent settle- 
 ment here. The place is first men- 
 tioned in the ' Sax. Chron.' ad ann. 
 913, when Edward the Elder re- 
 mained at Maldon whilst his " burh " 
 was building at Witham. In 920, 
 Edward again visited Maldon, and 
 "built and established the burh." 
 In tlie following year the Danes 
 beset it, but were driven off. We 
 hear nothing more of Maldon until 
 991, — when the Northmen (probably 
 Norwegians — the famous Olaf Trygg- 
 wesson seems to have been present), 
 were met here by Brihtnoth, Eaklor- 
 man of Essex. The Northmen lay 
 
 apparently in the Chelmer river, close 
 to Maldon ; their crews occupied the 
 tongue of land between Maldon and 
 Heybridge ; and Brihtnoth came on 
 them from the N., fii'st occupying 
 the ground now covered by the 
 suburb of Heybridge. The North- 
 men at first offered to withdraw on 
 payment of tribute ; — but Brihtnoth 
 indignantly refused (the practice 
 was, however, adopted this year for 
 the first time.) " Till the tide turned 
 the two armies stood facing each 
 other, eager for battle, but unable to 
 do more than exchange a few flights 
 of arrows." A bridge then, as now, 
 connected Heybridge with the land 
 between it and Maldon. (The pre- 
 sent bridge is mediaeval, bur, of 
 course, far more recent than the 10th 
 cent.) By Brihtnoth's direction it 
 was " kept " — like the famous bridge 
 over the Tiber, — by a " dauntless 
 three " — Wulfstan, ^Elfhere, and 
 Maccus. They prevented any cross- 
 ing by the bridge ; but when the 
 tide turned, the Northmen swarmed 
 across the river, and the fight began 
 in earnest. Brihtnoth, who had 
 ridden to the field, but fought there 
 on foot surrounded by his "hearth 
 company " or personal following, 
 was killed, — and his whole " hearth 
 company " seems to have fallen 
 round him. But the field was nobly 
 contested — and although the 
 " heathen men " remained victors, 
 the English defeat was not so 
 decisive as to allow of the plunder- 
 ing of Maldon. Brihtnoth's body 
 (without the head, which the North- 
 men carried off" as a trophy), was 
 conveyed to Ely, — to which monas- 
 tery, as to many others, he had been 
 a great benefactor. His widow 
 zEthelflsed wrought the story of her 
 husband's deeds and death in tapes- 
 try (' cortina ') wliich was long pre- 
 served among the treasures of Ely. 
 A noble Saxon poem, in which the 
 incidents of the fight at Maldon are 
 conmaemorated,has happily been pre- 
 served, and will be found in Thorpe's 
 
48 
 
 Boiite 4. — Maldon. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 'Analecta Anf^lo-Saxomca,' and in 
 Conyheare's ' Specimens.' It has 
 served as the foundation for tlie ad- 
 mirable description of the battle in 
 Freeman s 'Norman Conquest,' i., 
 297, 303. 
 
 It is as the scene of this battle that 
 Maldon is chiefly interesting. 
 
 All Saints' Cfmrch has a peculiar 
 triangular tower, the only one so 
 shaped in the kingdom. It is of 
 Perp, date. There is a very fine 
 early Dec. east window, circ. 1280. 
 Near the ch. is the Toivn Hall, 
 a building of the reign of Henry 
 VII. >S'^. Mary's Tower was partly 
 rebuilt in the reign of Charles I. 
 The lower part is Norm, wttli 
 Roman tiles. The Grammar School 
 stands on the site of St. Peter s 
 Church, of which only the tower 
 remains ; attached to it is a scliool 
 and a Theological Library, founded 
 by Dr. Thomas Plume, Archdea- 
 con of Rochester, and founder of the 
 Plumian Professorship of Astronomy 
 at Cambridge — born at Maldon in 
 1630. 
 
 The chapel of an ancient hospital 
 here — now forming part of the build- 
 ings attached to the " Spital Farm " 
 — has an eastern triplet of Roman 
 brick. 
 
 W. of the town is a Camp of 24 
 acres, attributed to Edward the 
 Elder. (See ante.) 
 
 At the Literary Institution in the 
 Town Hall, is an incipient Museum 
 and a Library. 
 
 Sir Edwin Landseer, R. A. .resided 
 here as a youth, and in this neigh- 
 bour! lood are still preserved many 
 early productions of his pencil. J. 
 H. Herbert, R.A., was also for some 
 time a resident at INIaldon. 
 
 Tiie Church of Ileyhrklge, the sub- 
 urb of Maldon, is massive Norm., — 
 and it has been suggested that it 
 may represent an earlier church or 
 chapel built here, as on so many 
 battle-fields, to commemorate the 
 great fight of 991. 
 
 1 m. W. of Maldon are the in- 
 
 teresting remains of Beleigh Ahhey, 
 founded in 1180, for Premnnstra- 
 tonsian Canons, by Rob. de Mantel. 
 Two fine vaulted apartments, sup- 
 ported on marble columns, remain ; 
 one, the refectory, now a kitchen, 
 has for a chimney-piece a fragment 
 of a rich tomb canopy, perhaps that 
 of Hen. Bourchier, Earl of Essex, 
 who was buried here in 1483. Above 
 the other vaulted chamber (said, but 
 impossibly, to have been the cliapel — 
 it was no doubt the chapter-house) — 
 was the dormitory, with an open 
 wood roof. The remains are E. Eng., 
 and good. The doorway at the W. 
 end of the chapter-house retains 
 some wall-painting — flowing lines of 
 deep red on a cream-coloured ground. 
 Doorway and wandows are excellent 
 examples. At the Dissolution, the 
 annual revenue of the abbey was 
 1961. 6s. od.— (Speed.) 
 
 In the Ch. of Woodham Mortimer, 
 2\ m. S.W. of Maldon, Chambevlen, 
 the surgeon, was buried. His epitaph 
 somewhat untruly, begins — 
 
 " To tell his learning and his life to men 
 Enough is said by here lyes Chamberlen." 
 
 He was the inventor of a famous 
 "forceps." 
 
 [N. of the Blackwater, about 5 m. 
 N.E. of Maldon, is ToUeshunt-Magmi, 
 (the name is properly Mauger, from 
 that of its holder at the time of the 
 Domesday survey. This has been 
 corrupted to il/ajor— and at last has 
 become Magna) — where is an em- 
 battled brick gate-house with four 
 turrets, a fragment of the old manor- 
 house of the I3eckenhams. The gate- 
 house is of the 15th cent. The 
 manor belonged to the Abbey of 
 Coggeshall until the Dissolution. 
 In 1543 it passed to the Becken- 
 hams.] 
 
 [The corner of Essex which lies 
 between the Blackwater and the 
 Crouch, forming the hundred of 
 Dengey (anciently Danesey = the 
 
Essex. 
 
 Boute 5. — London to Southend. 
 
 49 
 
 Danes' Island), contains one point of 
 great interest to archaeologists, — 
 Bradwell, the site of the Roman 
 Othona. The Hundred is a level 
 district — once greatly haunted by 
 fever and ague, but the drainage 
 of the marshes has nearly freed it 
 from those enemies — with a long 
 stretch of sands, called the " Danesey 
 Flats," lying off its eastern coast. 
 The churches are numerous, but of 
 small importance. (For Burnham, 
 and the oyster fisheries of the 
 Crouch river, see Ete. 5.) 
 
 Othona, one of the defensive sta- 
 tions on the " littus Saxonicum " is 
 only mentioned in the ' Notitia,' 
 where it is said that the '• General of 
 tlie Cohort of Fortenses" was sta- 
 tioned at it. It is the " Itlianceastre " 
 of Bede, where St. Cedd, the second 
 bishop of the E. Saxons, founded (654) 
 a church and monasterv. (JBede, 
 H. E., iii. 22. See rUhurij, Ete. 1.) 
 Tlie exact site of Othona was im- 
 certain, until in the autumn of 1864 
 it was discovered during the recla- 
 Uiation of some land on the flats 
 below Bradwell, at the N.E. corner 
 of the Deugey Hundred. Founda- 
 tions of the wall of the Castrum, 
 14 ft. thick, have been laid bare, 
 enclosing an area of between 3 
 and 4 acres. At certain intervals 
 are lower foundations of horse-shoe 
 form, no doubt marking tlie sites of 
 towers, such as remain in part at 
 Eichborough (Eutupire), and are 
 seen on numerous coins of the Con- 
 stantine family, which exhibit walls 
 and gates of fortresses. A vast quan- 
 tity of fragments of pottery, huge 
 heaps of oyster-shells, Samian ware, 
 spear-heads, &c., &c., havebeen found 
 here, and numerous coins, chiefly of 
 the 3rd and 4th cents. The ruins of 
 a peculiar, barn like building called 
 St. Peter's chapel — " Capella de la 
 Val," or " St. Peter ad murum," have 
 long marked tlie extreme point of 
 the shore. It has been suggested 
 that this building may have been 
 the basilica of the station, — first 
 
 secular, and then appropriated as a 
 Ciiristian ch. But it really stands 
 across the wall of the fortress ; and 
 since a large portion of the manor 
 was held by the great Abbey of St. 
 Valery in Picardy, it is more likely 
 that the chapel is French work dating 
 between 1200 and 1250 — when the 
 broad apse which it exhibits was 
 very common in France. 
 
 Bradwell, the present name of the 
 parisii, very probably signifies, as 
 Morant suggests, " brad -wall " — the 
 broad wall — from the strong walls of 
 the Eoman Castrum, which, although 
 very defensible, must have been one 
 of the smallest on this coast.] 
 
 ROUTE 5. 
 
 LONDON TO SOUTHEND BY BRENT- 
 WOOD, RAYLEIGH AND ROCHFORD. 
 
 For the rly. from the Bishopsgato 
 Stat, to Brentwood, see Ete. 2. A 
 coach runs twice daily from Brent- 
 wood to Billericay. (The Ch. of 
 Huftoii, passed on the road, is all 
 Early Perp. : 1404—1431.) 
 
 6 m. Billericay. Inn : Red Lion. 
 This is a small market-town in the 
 parish of Great Burstead, situated 
 on an eminence, commanding fine 
 vicY^'S of the Thames and over the 
 
50 
 
 Boiite 6 . — Billerkay. — Itayleigh . 
 
 Sect. ], 
 
 Kentish Hills. The Nore and Sheer- 
 ness are visible in clear weather. 
 (The etymology of "Billericay" is 
 quite uncertain. According to Mo- 
 rant the place is called Btleuca 
 (but query Belerca?) in a document 
 of 1343, and Billerica in one of 
 1395 — '' Belleri Castra" has been 
 suggested.) The Chapel, — of red 
 brick, has a Perp. tower, — the rest 
 is modern. In the woods near Bil- 
 lericay, the remains of the Jack 
 Straw rebels (see Fobbing, Ete. 1) 
 were cut to pieces, after the fall of 
 Wat Tyler. 
 
 [2 m. N., at Blunt's Walls, were the 
 remains of a Roman camp, where 
 coins and pottery have been found. 
 All traces of ditch, rampart, and 
 mounds, have disappeared. Much 
 Roman pottery has been found on 
 the farm of Tiled Hall, and ehe- 
 where in the neighbourhood, besides 
 many coins. 
 
 5 m. S. of Billericay are the Lang-. 
 don Hills, commanding a beautiful 
 view of the Thames and of the Med- 
 way (see Rte. 1).] 
 
 At 10 m. the river Crouch is 
 crossed at the little village of Wick- 
 ford. 
 
 14 m. Before entering Rayleigh 
 tlie road passes 1. what is called 
 Rayleigh Mound, a green circular 
 hill, with a deep fosse round it, and 
 on the S. side, a second and lower 
 mound, which has been squared. 
 At tlie S.W. point a neck of ridsed 
 ground connects the two mounds. 
 There are no traces of masonry ; 
 and the work seems to be of tlie 
 same character as the great entrench- 
 ments at Castle Rising, Castle Acre, 
 and elsewhere in Norfolk (see Nor- 
 folk, Rtes. 9 and 7), which Mr. 
 Harrod considers British (the circ. 
 mound), with a later, perhaps Roman, 
 addition. Rayleigh Mound was ex- 
 amined about 50 years since, — when 
 it was proved that about 20 ft. of 
 the height consisted of made soil. 
 
 No masonry was found. A bank, 
 now indistinct in places, ran round 
 the whole, including the two mounds 
 iu one area. In the Domesday 
 Survey, Suene, the great landowner 
 of Essex, is recorded as the Lord of 
 Rayleigh, — " et in hoc manerio fecit 
 Suenus suum castellum." But this 
 castle occupied a different site, — on 
 the hill near the rectory. In later 
 times Rayleigh was the head of the 
 barony. The hill of the Mound is 
 worth ascending for the extensive 
 view. 
 
 14^ m. Bayleigh. Inn : Golden 
 Lion. Pop. 1433. An ancient but 
 altogether reduced town, standing 
 on high gi'ound. Trinity Church, on 
 an eminence, is Dec. and Perp., with 
 a lofty tower. The walls are of 
 flint and stone chequered. Within is 
 a rich but mutilated Gothic altar- 
 tomb, apparently of the 13th cent. 
 There are also brasses of a civilian 
 and wife, circ. 1420, and a remark- 
 able alms chest, hollowed from the 
 trunk of a tree. 
 
 The country round Rayleigh is rich 
 and well cultivated; but the manor 
 can no longer (happily perhaps) 
 boast of "6 arpents of vineyard, 
 returning, in good seasons (si bene 
 procedit) 20 barrels — ' modii ' — of 
 wine." — Domesday Survey. 
 
 On King's Hill, near Rayleigh, 
 the "Lawless" or " Wliispering ' 
 Court (the Court of the manor) is held 
 by a peculiar tenure, from midnight 
 to cockciow on the Wednesday fol- 
 lowing Michaelmas-day, " without 
 any kind of light but such as the 
 heavens will alibrd." The business 
 is transacted in whispers, and the 
 minutes are recorded with a coal. 
 " He that owes suit and service 
 thereto, and appears not, forfeits to 
 the Lord double his rent for every 
 hour he is absent." "A tenant of 
 this manor," says Morant (17C8), 
 "forfeited not long ago his land for 
 non-attendance; but was restored 
 to it, the Lord only taking a fine. 
 
Essex. 
 
 JRoiite 5. — JRochford. 
 
 51 
 
 The Court is called lawless because 
 held at an unlawful or 'lawless' 
 hour, or ' quia dicta sine lege.' The 
 most ancient tradition of the place 
 asserts that this servile attendance 
 was imposed at first upon certain 
 tenants of divers manors hereabouts 
 for conspiring in this place at such 
 an unseasonable time to raise a 
 commotion." — Hist, of Essex. Morant 
 describes this court as belonging to 
 the manor of Rochford ; but it is 
 really attached to that of Eayleigh. 
 
 [There is a direct road hence to 
 Southend, 74 m., leaving Rochford on 
 the 1.] 
 
 After leaving Rayleigh the road 
 crosses a ridge, whence is a fine 
 view over the estuary of the Crouch, 
 with a glimpse of the Thames. 
 
 The road to Rochford is circuitous, 
 and the approach is through an 
 avenue that once led to Bochford 
 Hall, successively the seats of the 
 Rochfords (temp. Hen. II.) ; the 
 Botelers, Earls of Ormond and Wilt- 
 shire ; the Boleyns ; and of Lord 
 Rich and his descendants, Earls of 
 Warwick. Rochford passed to Sir 
 William Boleyn, of Blickling, 
 through his marriage with a co- 
 hehess of the Botelers. His son, 
 Sir Thomas Boleyn, father of Queen 
 Anne, was created Viscount Roch- 
 ford, Earl of Wiltshire and Earl of 
 Ormond. The second and last Vis- 
 count Rochford was beheaded with 
 the Queen, his sister, in 1538. Al- 
 though Anne Boleyn (born 1507) 
 may have spent some of her early 
 years at Rochford, it was not, as 
 some assert, her birthplace. The 
 existing edifice, surmounted by 4 
 or 5 gables, probably of the age of 
 James I., was engrafted upon an 
 older structure, of which 3 fianking 
 turrets remain, though much de- 
 cayed ; and behind the house are 
 portions of large apartments. Near 
 it, and I m. from the town, is the 
 Church, Perp., with a tall brick 
 tower. 
 
 19 m. Rochford (Pop. 1696) is an 
 unimportant town. 
 
 Rochford is the head of the Hun- 
 dred, which is named from the town. 
 "'Tis,"says Morant, "one of those 
 which have been stigmatized with 
 the denomination of ' the Hundreds,' 
 Dengey being the otlier." These 
 Hundreds are bounded by the low 
 land of the Essex coast, from Had- 
 leigh on the Thames, round by the 
 mouth of the Crouch (which divides 
 them) to some distance above Maldon 
 on the Blackwater. The coast and 
 marshes were, and still are, haunts 
 of ague and fever, while the inland 
 country was anciently thick forest, 
 and scarcely less unwholesome. 
 Hence the " stigma." The forest has 
 been cleared ; and the hundred of 
 Rochford is now famous for its grain 
 crops. 
 
 [Either from Rochford or from 
 Rayleigh, may be visited the probable 
 scene of the memorable fight of 
 Assandun (1016)— tlie 6th and last 
 battle fought in that year between 
 Cnut and Eadmund Ironside. Mr. 
 Freeman (' Norm. Conquest,' i. 429 — 
 433) has shown that Ashington on 
 the Crouch river answers all the 
 requirements of the narratives in 
 Florence or the ' Saxon Chronicle ; ' 
 and after his vivid description of 
 the fight it will be difficult for any 
 future historian to place the field 
 of "Assandun" elsewhere. (The 
 field of battle is commanded from 
 HocJdey, 2J m. from Rayleigh, or 
 from Ashington itself, about the 
 same distance from Rochford.) A 
 low range of hills here overlooks 
 the S. bank of the Crouch, in which 
 (or in the Thames) the Danish 
 ships must have been lying. Cnut 
 and his army had left the ships, 
 and had been on a plundering 
 expedition into Mercia. They were 
 returning to the river along the hills 
 which bolder it, and were followed 
 by Eadmimd. On the lulls of Ash- 
 ington, '• a site marked by entrench- 
 
 D 2 
 
62 Boute 6. — Colchester to BrigJdlingsea and Walton. Sect. I. 
 
 mcnts, which arc possibly witnesses 
 of that day"s fight, possibly of yet 
 earlier warfare, Eadmund drew up 
 his forces in three ranks, and at first 
 seemed disposed to await the attack 
 of the enemy." But Cnut '* led his 
 troops off the hills into the level 
 ground, that is, the intermediate 
 height between the hills and the 
 swampy plain." Eadmund's host 
 charged down on them, and the 
 battle thus began with a furious 
 assault on the Danes, who would 
 apparently have given way entirely, 
 had not Eadric the Ealdorman " be- 
 trayed his lord and king, and all the 
 people of English kin." He fled 
 with the forces led by him. The 
 field was long contested, but Cnut 
 remained victor, and the slaughter 
 of the English nobility was fearful. 
 Yet Cnut did not follow up his vic- 
 tory by any vigorous blow, and it 
 was only succeeded by the Confer- 
 ence of Olney, at which it was agreed 
 that England should be divided 
 between Cnut and Eadmund. 
 
 Four years after the battle a 
 "minster of stone and lime" was 
 built at " Assandun " by Cnut and 
 Jarl Thorkill — who had been pre- 
 sent during the light. (' Sax. Chron.' 
 ad ann. 1020.) This minster may 
 be represented either by the existing 
 ch. at Ashington, or by that of 
 Hockley— the adjoining parish. The 
 Ch. of Ashington is small and poor ; 
 but its 12th-cent. doors are inserted 
 in an older wall, possibly as ancient 
 as the reign of Cnut, Hockley CJi. 
 stands within an entrenchment, and 
 its masonry is also rude and early. 
 The priest placed at Assandun by 
 Cnut was the famous Stigand — after- 
 wards Abp. of Canterbury — who is 
 mentioned on this occasion for the 
 first time. 
 
 Canewdon, on a hill across the 
 level, which was probably the field 
 of battle, very possiljly retains the 
 name of the great Dane. The Clt. 
 is Pcrp. 
 
 The name of Battle JJrkhje, v.hcre 
 
 the road from Eayleigh to Chelms- 
 ford crosses the Crouch, possibly re- 
 cords this fight.] 
 
 [The oysters bred in the Crouch 
 river and in its creeks, are reckoned 
 among the best of English " natives." 
 The bottom of the river, for a dis- 
 tance of 18 m., is converted into a 
 breeding gi-ound, and is carefully 
 watched against poachers. The 
 Oyster Comj^any, which farms the 
 principal beds, is fixed at Burnham, 
 on the N. bank of the river; from 
 which there is a ferry to Wallasea 
 Island, opposite. From the Belvi- 
 dere at Burnham, a kmd of observa- 
 tory, 45 ft. high, erected by the 
 Oyster Company, extensive views 
 are commanded along the banks of 
 the river, and the creeks and islands 
 lying 8. There is little of interest 
 in these fiat, swampv islands.] 
 
 22 m. is Prittleweil (see Rte. 1 ). 
 
 23 m. Southend (Ete. 1). 
 
 ROUTE G. 
 
 COLCHESTER TO BRIGHTLINGSEA 
 AND WALTON-ON-THE-NAZE. MER- 
 SEA ISLAND. 
 
 {Tendring Hundred Line.) 
 
 [Many trains runs daily from Col- 
 chester by '\Vivenhoe to Bri2:htlinr;:sea 
 (lHni.) = 'i!dWalton-()n-tlie-N:ize(l!!i^ 
 m.). The Mile End »Stat. (the mam 
 
Essex. BoiiU Q. — Byihe — WivenJioe — Briglitlingsed, 
 
 63 
 
 Colchester Stat, on the Great Eastern 
 Rly.) is connected with a stat, at St. 
 BotolpKs in the lower part of the 
 town. From St. Botolph's the line 
 runs dii-ect.] 
 
 At 8f m. is Eythe (stat.). This 
 is the port of Colchester, and the 
 river, as high as this, is navigable for 
 vessels of 160 tons. Beyond this stat. 
 Wivenlioe Park (J. Gurdon-Kebow, 
 Esq.), is seen 1. A very important 
 work of Grinling Gibbons, ' the Ston- 
 ing of St. Stephen,' is preserved here. 
 It was bought of Gibbons by Chas. II., 
 and given to the Duke of Chandos. 
 It was at Cannons, and its later 
 liistory is well known. The carving 
 is in three blocks of lance wood ; and 
 the design somewhat resembles one of 
 the elaborate architectural composi- 
 tions of Paul Veronese. There is a 
 drawing of this carving in the Col- 
 chester Museum. 
 
 6 m. Wivenlioe (Junct. Stat. Here 
 the rly. branches, one line running 
 1. to Walton, the other proceeding to 
 Brightlingsea). The term 'hoe' (A. 
 S. lioiL), which occurs frequently in 
 tliis district, signifies a height or ris- 
 ing ground. Here the " hoes " are low 
 hilLs overlooking the marshes. The 
 village of Wyvenhoe (Pop. 1843) is 
 inhabited for the most jDart by persons 
 engaged in tlie oyster fishery. There 
 is here also a large ship-building 
 yard belonging to Messrs. Harvey, 
 whose yachts are far famed. The 
 view down the winding Colne is 
 hardly picturesque (the Roman river 
 — see Lexden, Rte. 2 — falls into the 
 Colne nearly opposite Wivenhoe), 
 and almost the sole point of interest 
 here is the Church— lehuilt, with the 
 exception of the tower, since 18.59, 
 but still i^reserving some fine brasses 
 from tlie older building. The style 
 of the ch. is late Dec. (Hakewill, 
 arch.) The brasses are those of 
 William, Viscount Beaumont and 
 Lord Bardolf, 1507; Sir Thomas 
 Westeley, chaplain to the " Countess 
 
 of Oxenford," 1535 ; and Lady Eliz. 
 Scroope, 2nd wife of John do Vere, 
 Earl of Oxford, and widow of Wm. 
 Lord Beaumont, 1537. These brasses, 
 though late, are worth notice. The 
 De Veres were for some time Lords of 
 the manor, and had a residence at 
 Wivenhoe Hall (now occupied by Sir 
 C. de Crespigny), but the greater part 
 of the old house has been pulled 
 down. 
 
 In the walls of the old ch., part 
 of which remain on the N. side, is 
 much Eoman tile. There are some 
 fine horse chesnuts in the ch.-yd. 
 On the S. side of the ch. is what is 
 now a row of cottages, — with some 
 "pargetting" or plaister work run- 
 ning along above the wooden base. 
 The work, perhaps Elizabethan, is 
 excellent in design, — representing 
 twisted branches and foliage. 
 
 (a). Wivenhoe to Brightlingsea. 
 
 From Wivenhoe the rly. follows 
 the N. bank of the Colne, till it 
 reaches 
 
 11 J m. BrightlingseaxiUfigeCBncti- 
 cesia in Domes., afterwards "Bricht- 
 ling ' — Brichticising (ing = meadow, 
 the added 'ea ' maybe A. S. ?(/. island). 
 This "port" was, and is, a member 
 of the Cinque Port of Sandwich. It 
 is now, for the most part, a village of 
 oyster fishers. The Church, the only 
 object of interest, is 1 J m. N. of the 
 village and station. Its lofty tower 
 is a conspicuous mark, not only from 
 the sea, but over all the neighboiu:- 
 ing marshes. The ch. is Perp., and 
 contains 7 brasses for members of the 
 Beriff family, ranging from 1496 to 
 1578 ; ch. and manor belonged to St. 
 John's Abbey at Colchester. 
 
 [Across the ferry from Brightling- 
 sea Stat., and beyond St. Osyth's 
 Creek, lies the village and Priory of 
 St. Osyth. This place, then known 
 as Chic or Cice (A. S. cicel = a piece 
 separated or cut off. Chiche is still 
 usL'd in Norfolk in this sense) 
 was given by Suthred, King of 
 
54 
 
 Boute 6. — BrightUngsea : St. OsytJi's Priory. Sect. T. 
 
 the East Angles, to liis wife Osyth, 
 who founded a nunnery here. The 
 Danes " comminge to the said monas- 
 tery, cut off her head" (circ. 870), 
 *' the which she tiiking up from the 
 ground carried three furlonges to 
 a church of S. Peter and S. Paul," 
 where she fell and " ended the course 
 of her martyrdom." The present 
 Parish Cli. (ded. to SS. Peter and 
 Paul) no doubt represents St. Osyth's 
 building, and near it is a spring 
 which "presently sprung up in the 
 place where she was beheaded." St. 
 Osyth is best known as St. Scytha or 
 St. Sythe. A house of Augustinian 
 Canons was founded here before 1118 
 by Eichard de Belmes, Bishop of 
 London ; the annual revenue of which 
 at the surrender was 758Z. 5s. ScZ. 
 (Speed). The founder was himself 
 buried (1127) in the ch. Henry 
 VIII. granted the site to Thomas 
 Cromwell. (There are some curious 
 letters from Lord Chancellor Audley 
 to Cromwell, in which he begs, no 
 doubt for his personal advantage, 
 for the change of the houses of St. 
 Osyth's and'St. John's, Colchester, 
 from regulars to secular priests, 
 rather than that they should be dis- 
 solved altogether. " As for St. Os- 
 syes," he says, " although yt be a 
 gret house in building, I assure you 
 it is onholsom for dwellyng, by cause 
 yt ys nere the sea and mershes. This 
 house also stondith in the confyne of 
 the realme nere the sees, & a howse 
 kepyng gret hospitalyte for the re • 
 lecfe of dyvers smal townes about it. 
 The stepie also ys a comon marke for 
 maryners upon the sees." The ab- 
 bot resigned his house as *' a hum- 
 ble servant, without nuu-mour or 
 grugge ; " but Cromwell had his own 
 eye on the place, and it could not be 
 spared.) Edward YI. granted it to 
 Lord D'Arcy, wliose heiress married 
 Lord Rivers of Chicli. About 1700 
 the heiress of the Riverses, though 
 with a bend sinister, married Zuile- 
 stein Nassau, Earl of Rochford. St. 
 Osyth's is now the property of J. H. 
 
 Johnson, Esq., whose father bought 
 it from the representatives of the 
 Nassaus in 1863. The ancient re- 
 mains, incorporated with modern 
 buildings, form the present Priory. 
 Though decayed, it displays much 
 of the grandeur of a monastic esta- 
 blishment. A lofty gate-house of 
 hewn stone and flint (apparently 
 part of the bishop's late Norm, work) 
 leads into a quadrangle, of which 
 only the N. side is wanting. The 
 gateway to the farm buildings is a 
 remarkable and very fine instance of 
 a circ. -headed gateway of the Dec. 
 period. 
 
 The Lombardy poplars in the park 
 dispute with tliose at Henley the 
 claim of having been the first planted 
 in England. Here is (if the severe 
 winter of 1860-61— fatal for the most 
 part to the laurustinus throughout 
 England — have not destroyed it) a 
 very celebrated laurustinus. 
 
 In St. Osyth's Ch. are several tombs 
 of the D'Arcvs — one to Thos. Lord 
 D'Arcy, 1551 J 
 
 The Ch. of Great Clarion, 3 m. 
 E. of St. Osyth, is worth a visit. 
 The chancel and tower, which has 
 been lately restored, are very good 
 Norm. 
 
 [Opposite Brightlingsea Stat., on 
 the S. side, at the mouth of the Colne, 
 is Mersea Island — 4J m. long by about 
 2 m. broad — the largest of the many 
 low islands, which, separated from 
 the main land by winding "fleets" 
 and " rays," lie off the coast of Essex. 
 Unlike the others, Mersea is not 
 entirely a level marsh, but rises 
 slightly from near the coast, inland. 
 There was a Roman residence or 
 small station of some importance at 
 West Mersea, the extreme S.W. point 
 of the island. Roman pavements and 
 foundations are still to be seen here ; 
 and it has been conjectured that they 
 are the remains of a villa of the 
 " Count of the Saxon Shore." The 
 Ch. of W. Mersea is ded. to St. Peter 
 
Essex. Hotito 6. — Mersca Island — Wallcn-on-iJic-Naze. 
 
 55 
 
 and St. Paul, — indicating a very 
 early foundation. The island was a 
 liauutoftlie Northmen ('Sax. Chron.' 
 ad ami. 895). At the S.E. corner, 
 defending the passage up the Colne, 
 was a small blockhouse, seized hj the 
 Parliamentarians during the siege 
 of Colchester in 1648. During the 
 Dutch wars of the 17th centy. a camp 
 was established on the island. 
 
 A road is carried across a narrow 
 channel to the mainland at a place 
 called the Strood, — a word which is 
 said to signify a bank or road ad- 
 joining the sea or a creek. There was 
 anciently a " Sti'ood-keeper." The 
 Fyefleet channel, on the N.E. side of 
 the island, is famous for its oysters ; 
 and Peldou seems to have even sup- 
 plied still more ' ' noticeable fish " from 
 the creek which runs up toward that 
 village. " Alexander with his friends 
 and physicians," writes a certain Dr. 
 Muflet'(in a book called 'Health's 
 Improvement,' 1655), "■ wondered to 
 fiud oisters in the Indian seas a foot 
 long. And in Plinie's time they mar- 
 velled at an oister which might be 
 divided into three morsels, calling it 
 therefore Tridacnon. . . . But I dare, 
 and do truly affirm, that at my eldest 
 brother's marriage at Aldbam Hall 
 in Essex, I did see a Pelden oister 
 divided into eight good morsels, 
 wliose shell was nothing less than 
 that of Alexander's."] 
 
 (]}). Wivenhoe to Walton-on-the- 
 Xaze. 
 
 From Wivenhoe the rly. i^asses 
 through one of the richest corn- 
 growing districts in England. Pass- 
 ing stations at 
 
 Ih m. from Colchester, Alresford ; 
 and 
 
 Of m. TJwrington, we reach 
 
 lOJ m. Beniley Green (Stat.). The 
 " Green " which adjoins the village of 
 Great Bentley, formed part of the 
 park belonging to a residence of 
 the De Veres. The house has en- 
 tirely disappeared. The Ch. of Great 
 
 Bentley has Norm, portions. Tlie 
 N. and S. portals are good Norm., 
 much enriched. Little Bentley Ch., 
 2|- m. N. of the station, contains the 
 brasses of Sir William Pyrton, Cap- 
 tain of Guisnes in Picardy (1490), 
 and of his widow Catherine (d. 
 1501). 
 
 Passing 12| m. Weeley Stat., we 
 reach 
 
 14 J m. Tliorpe-le-Solten. "With 
 Kirby and Walton it forms "The 
 Liberty of the Sokens" (locally 
 Sookins), indicating that its ancient 
 lords possessed the powers of " sac 
 and soc " within the bounds of the 
 Liberty. These pov/ers, derived from 
 times before the Conquest, have been 
 much diminished : but the Soken 
 Court is still held at Thorpe, under 
 the jurisdiction of its Lord, who 
 proves wills and also backs warrants 
 for debt. The Dean and Chapter of 
 St. Paul's, London, were Lords of the 
 '• Sokens '"' until their manors here 
 were taken from them by Hen. VIII. 
 In the ch. of Thorpe is a good effigy, 
 temp. Hen. III. or Edw. I., said to 
 be of one of the Saltburgh family. 
 In Morant's time it was called the 
 tomb of the " King of Landmer 
 Hall," one of the most ancient houses 
 in the parish. 
 
 There is a stat. at 
 
 17 J m. Kirby Cross, and soon 
 
 19f m. Walton-on-the-Naze (Ness, 
 Promontory), or Walton-le-Soken, is 
 reached. Inns : Kent's Hotel, in the 
 Crescent, a large and handsome build- 
 ing ; Portobello Hotel ; Bath Hotel. 
 
 This watering-place, washed on 
 two sides by the sea, is frequented 
 in autrnnn by the Essex and Suffolk 
 gentry, its jjiincipal attractions being 
 the sea and a smooth sandy beach 
 several miles in extent. The best 
 lodgings are in the terrace. Walton 
 Tower, some distance beyond the 
 terrace was built by the Trinity 
 House, as a mark for vessels enter- 
 ing Harwich Harbour. There is 
 also a martello tower on the shore. 
 
BCy 
 
 Boitle 7. — London to Harwich. 
 
 Sect. X. 
 
 The present Ch., consecrated by 
 by Bishop Porteus in 1804, enlarged 
 1834, replaces a former one, which, 
 with a large part of the village, was 
 swept away by an encroachment of 
 the sea — which, aided by land 
 springs in the alluvial soil, is still 
 gaining on the coast. One of the 
 Prebends of St. Paul's was endowed 
 with lands at Walton ; " but,' says 
 Morant, "the sea hath consumed 
 or devoured it long ago, therefore it 
 is styled ' Pr?ebenda consumpta per 
 mare.'" 
 
 At the Orescent pier, 330 ft. long, 
 passengers embark in the steamboats 
 which ply to London and Ipswich. 
 At present it is impossible to embark 
 without boats, but a new and much 
 larger pier is being erected (1870) 
 which will do away with this neces- 
 sity. 
 
 8. of "Walton is a dif much fre- 
 quented by visitors for the sake of 
 the Ibssil remains, which are numer- 
 ous, and easily got at. 
 
 The Naze is a low promontory 
 stretching into the sea, 3 m. N. of 
 the town. In ancient charters con- 
 nected wnth 8t. Paul's Cathedral, it 
 is referred to by the name of " Ea- 
 dulfesnesa." (This name, mis-written 
 as " Adululnasa," is given in Domes- 
 day to tlie whole district, which was 
 not then divided into three parishes). 
 
 [Between the Naze and tlie coast 
 running N. to Harwich are Horsey, 
 Holmes, and Pewit Islands — the 2 
 former excellent grazing ground, the 
 latter a haunt of plovers. Much 
 oyster " spat " is conveyed from this 
 part of the coast to the beds of the 
 Colne. 
 
 The names "Kirby " and " Mose " 
 (Danish = moits) in this district, indi- 
 cate that permanent Danish settle- 
 ments were not entirely confined to 
 the coimtry N. of the Stour. 
 
 In the jjarish of Frinton, adjoining 
 Walton, on the coast, S., was in 
 IMorant's time " a jirctty little house 
 and gardsns belonging once to the 
 
 famous Cornelius a Tilbury, who in 
 King William's reign eat a great 
 quantity of poison and yet survived 
 it."J 
 
 KOUTE 7. 
 
 LONDON TO HARWICH. 
 
 (Great Eastern Bailioay. 4 trains 
 daihj. During the summer steamers 
 leave Harwich for Rotterdam 3 
 da])s in tlie iveeU ; and for Antwerp 
 twice a loeeh.) 
 
 The main line of the Great 
 Eastern Ely. is followed as far as 
 INIanningtree. (For it, see Rte. 2). 
 From ]\Ianningtree a branch line lOf- 
 m. in length, extends to Harwich ; 
 skirting the estuary of the Stour. At 
 
 If m. is Mistley (Stat.), a large 
 village with a quay, forming an ex- 
 tension of the port of Manningtree. 
 The rly. passes the site of Mistley 
 Hall, called by Walpole, in 1745, 
 " the charmingest place by nature, 
 and the most trumpery by art, that 
 ever I saw." It then belonged to 
 the Right Hon. Richard Rigby, an 
 M.P. of some note in his day ; and 
 descended by marriage to Lord Rivers. 
 The house has been pulled down, and 
 some part of the jjark sold. But tlie 
 greater portion remains, well wooded, 
 and with picturesquely broken ground. 
 At Mistli-y Thorns, lower down the 
 river, is a Church, completed in 1777, 
 
Essex'. 
 
 lioute 7. — Dover court — Harvclcli. 
 
 t,i 
 
 "an unique building of the Doric 
 order," with two domes. 
 
 Ill the Church of 
 
 3 m. Bradfield (Stat.), is a hrass 
 for the wife of Thomas Rysby, died 
 1598, and a small monument (bas- 
 relief) for members of the Agassiz 
 family, by Chantrey. 
 
 In the parish of Wiclces (rt.) was a 
 small house of Benedictine nuns, 
 founded by ' tlie sons of Walter the 
 Deacon,' temp. Hen. I. It was one 
 of those granted to Cardinal Wolsey 
 in 1525, for the endowment of his 
 Colleges at Oxford and Ipswich. 
 Scanty remains of the foundations 
 may still be traced. The Ch. was re- 
 built in 1740. The belfry, a curious 
 structure of wood, resembling that at 
 Wrabness (see post.), is some yards 
 from the ch. and contains a single 
 bell. Such wooden belfries are some- 
 times found attached to village 
 churches in Sweden and Denmark. 
 Passing 
 
 5J m. Wrabness, a village plea- 
 santly overlooking the estuary of the 
 Stour (the belfry here is of the same 
 character as that at Wickes, — a low 
 square framework of wood) — and 
 crossing a creek at the mouth of 
 which is Kay Island, forming the 
 Avestern side of Harwich harbour, 
 the line readies 
 
 lOj m. Dovercourt, a village with 
 scattered houses, forming a suburb 
 of Harwich. This is Lower Dover- 
 court {Hotels : Clitf Hotel, best, and 
 very pleasantly situated ; Queen's 
 Head ; Victoria, near the station), 
 which of late years has become a 
 small and not disagreeable watering- 
 place. The beach is of firm sand, 
 and affords good bathing. There is 
 a terrace of good houses (many of 
 them lodging-houses) overlooking a 
 wide stretch of sea between Har- 
 wich and Walton-on-the-Naze ; a 
 carriage drive along the clitt"; and 
 an esplanade, on which are reading 
 and refreshment rooms, and the 
 " Dovercourt Spa," a mild tonic and 
 
 stomachic, containing carbonate and 
 sulphate of lime, magnesia and 
 oxide of iron. On the land side 
 there is not much interest in the 
 immediate neiglibourhood of Dover- 
 court. An excursion may be made 
 through winding lanes to Walton-on- 
 the-Naze — 16 m. (Rte. G). Ipswich 
 is readily accessible by rail (Kte. 
 2) ; and the pretty scenery on the 
 Orwell (see Harwich, post, and 
 Suffolk, Rte. 1) is to be reached 
 either by boat or by steamer from 
 Harwich. The church (which is in 
 Ul^per Dovercourt, about 1 m. from 
 the lower village) was famous for 
 a miraculous rood, to which pil- 
 grimages were made from all quar- 
 ters, "TJie generality," says Dale 
 (Hist, of Harwich and Dovercourt, 
 1730), "verily believed none, without 
 great danger (even of sudden death) 
 to themselves, might attempt to shut 
 the church doors upon it by day and 
 night ; upon which confidence it be- 
 came more easily to be made the 
 sacrifice of three men from Dedham, 
 and a fourth from East Bergholt, 
 anno 1532, who in a frosty night, 
 together entering the secure, yet 
 always open, church, took it down, 
 and carrying it about a quarter of a 
 mile from thence, upon the green, 
 with its own tapers, fired it to ashes. 
 For which three, being apisrehended, 
 were hanged in several i)laces : the 
 fourth of them escaped." The story 
 has been told at length by Froude, 
 Hist. Eng. vol. iii. Tlie Ch. is small, 
 consisting of nave and chancel ; 
 and is E. Eng. with later insertions. 
 There are N. and S. doors into 
 the nave ; and a carved beam with 
 brackets is carried between nave and 
 chancel. This is of late character, 
 but possibly occupies the place of 
 the rood. The W. tower is massive 
 (Dec. ?) ; and from the ch.-3^d. there 
 is a pleasant view over the Stour. 
 ^ m. beyond Dovercourt we reach 
 
 lOf m, Harwich Stat. (Hotels: 
 Great Eastern, large, comfortable, 
 
 D 3 
 
S8 
 
 lloute 7. — -Harwich* 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 and not unreasonable in its charges. 
 It is conveniently situated on the 
 Quay ; Pier Hotel, also on the Quay. 
 These hotels have been built since 
 1863, when the Great Eastern Com- 
 pany obtained their Steamboat Act, 
 and the port was re-opened for foreign 
 intercourse. The Three Cups, in the 
 town, is an old house). Harwich is 
 an ancient seaport and borough (Pop., 
 in 1861, 3839), built at the conflu- 
 ence of the Stour and Orwell, on a 
 small peninsula, which commands 
 the entrance of the harbour, and, 
 with Landguard Fort opposite, de- 
 fends the mouths of both rivers. Its 
 harbour is the best on the E. coast 
 of England, " between the Thames 
 and the Humber, and during easterly 
 gales it is not unusual to see 400 
 vessels sheltered within it. Owing 
 to the dredging up cement-stone otf 
 Felixstow in Suffolk, and the falling 
 away of Beacon Cliff" on the Essex 
 shore, Landguard Point, a low 
 shingle-beach on the E. of the har- 
 bour, has advanced 500 yards during 
 the last 40 years, or at the rapid 
 rate of 12 yards a year, and blocked 
 up the best entrance. To remedy 
 this evil, a stone breakwater, 400 
 yards long, has been run out from 
 Beacon Cliff, and a channel into the 
 harbour has been dredged to a depth 
 of 18 ft. at low water, or 30 ft. at 
 high water of ordinary spring tides, 
 and thus has restored the entrance to 
 its former depth. To maintain it, 
 however, some groynes will be re- 
 quired on Landguard East Beach, to 
 stop the advance of shingle from the 
 N.E., otherwise its progress will not 
 be arrested, and the entrance will 
 again be lost." — TF. Since 1862, 
 steamers in connection with the 
 Great Eastern Ely. Company, leave 
 Harwich three times a week for 
 Kotterdam, and twice for Antwerp. 
 
 Harwich (the usual etymology — 
 Ilere-ioic, the " army's station " — can 
 hardly be supported. It is possibly 
 Har-wic, the village on the shore, or 
 
 boundary. Wic (vicUs) according to 
 Kemble, " is strictly used to denote 
 the country-houses of conununities, 
 kings, or bishops ") is a straggling 
 town of narrow streets and houses, 
 old, but hardly picturesque. Queen 
 Elizabeth, when the magistrates had 
 told her that they wanted " nothing, 
 but to wish her a good journey," cha- 
 racterised Harwich as a " pretty town, 
 wanting nothing." It now stands in 
 need of many things — most espe- 
 cially of "sweetness and light" — 
 in wliich indeed, we are most of 
 us deficient. The site was ap- 
 parently a Roman station, since the 
 remains of a large camp may still 
 be traced S. of tlie town, towards 
 Beaconsfield Hill. The road lead- 
 ing to this camp, along the line of 
 whicli Roman coins have been found, 
 is called "the Street,' and a tesse- 
 lated pavement was some years since 
 discovered near it, towards Dover- 
 court. In 885 (' Sax. Chron.' ad ann.) 
 a great fight took place off" the mouth 
 of the Stour between 16 Danish ships 
 and the fleet of King Alfred, whicli 
 was completely victorious. At a 
 later period Plarwich became and 
 long continued the chief port for 
 communication between England and 
 Holland. Isabella, queen of Ed. II., 
 landed here in 1326 with an army; 
 to war against her husband, and the 
 Spencers. In 1338 Edward III. 
 embarked here uj^on his first cam- 
 paign against France. In 1340 here 
 was mustered that gallant fleet with 
 which he won our first great naval 
 victory, at Sluys. From Harwich, 
 too, sailed (1578) Martin Fro- 
 bishcr, with 15 ships, on his third 
 voyage to explore the N.W. passage. 
 The great naval fight in June, 1666, 
 between the Dutch (under De Kuyter 
 and De Witt) and English, was 
 watched by numerous spectators from 
 the Beacon Hill. Sir William Claike 
 was killed in tins fight (see jJostj; in 
 this the English were victors; but 
 in tlie fighfs oft" the N. Foreland, 
 earlier in the month. Monk had not 
 
Essex:. 
 
 Houte 7. — TTarwich, 
 
 been so successful. In mor(j recent 
 days the Hanoverian monarclis here 
 embarked and disembarked, and 
 hi'nco in 1821 the remains of Queen 
 Can lime were despatched for Bruns- 
 wick. Johnson accompanied Boswell 
 to Harwich in 1763, wiien the latter 
 was on his way to Ley den ; and it 
 was here that, after visiting the 
 ch., and sending Boswell to his 
 knees "now that he was about to 
 leave his native country," Johnson 
 stood talking- of Bp. Berkeley's "in- 
 genious sophistry to prove the non- 
 existence of matter." The doctor 
 "struck his foot with mighty force 
 against a large stone, till he re- 
 bounded from it, — ' I refute it thus.' " 
 The friends embraced on the beach, 
 and Boswell embarked. " As the 
 vessel put out to sea I kept my eyes 
 on him for a considerable time, while 
 he remained rolling his majestic 
 frame in his usual manner ; and at 
 last I saw him walk back into the 
 town, and he disappeared." 
 
 It was not until the use of steam- 
 vessels became general, that this 
 ancient port lost its great import- 
 ance. Its foreign traiHc was then 
 transferred to London. The railway 
 has partly restored it. 
 
 The garrison here has been re- 
 duced, and but little goes on in the 
 Government dockyard, now let to 
 private persons ; yet 60 ships of war 
 have been built here, 15 of them 
 3-deckers. 
 
 Among the fishing "establish- 
 ments " at Harwich, is an extensive 
 nursery for lobsters, brought from 
 the coast of Norway, fed here in 
 tanks, and then carried to Billings- 
 gate, 4000 men and boys are em- 
 ployed by the proprietor (Mr. 
 Gro(nne) during the season, — at first 
 in fishing on the Dogger Bank, and 
 then in taking lobsters. A fleet of 
 shrimpers — 30 or 40 boats — arrive 
 from Kent in May, and remain off 
 Harwich harbour until October. The 
 shrimps are boiled on board and 
 sent daily to London. 
 
 Septaria or cement stones from the 
 London clay, in request for making 
 Parker's cement, are dredged up 
 from the harbour and the bottom of 
 tlie sea, and excavated from the cliiFs ; 
 (see 2)ost). They are not, however, 
 so mucli used as formerly, since the 
 mud of the harbour mixed with 
 chalk, has been found to make as 
 good cement. (Cement works are 
 passed in entering Harwich by the 
 rly.) The ancient walls of Harwich 
 were built, and its streets are still 
 paved, with indurated London clay, 
 a stratum of which, 20 ft. in depth, 
 lies below the blue clay and stone of 
 the Beacon Hill. 
 
 Harwich is a chapelry in the 
 parish of Dovercourt. In the Churcliy 
 which is a modern structure of white 
 brick, with stone buttresses and 
 steeple, built in 1821, at a cost of 
 20,000Z., is an effigy of Sir William 
 Clarke, Kt., Secretary at War to 
 Charles II., who was killed in 1666 
 in the sea-fight between Monk and 
 De Euyter, and wdiose body, many 
 days after the fight, was washed into 
 this haven. 
 
 Harwich is thronged by excur- 
 sionists in summer, and is partially 
 resorted to for sea-bathing, though 
 its merits as^ a watering-j^lace are 
 much inferior to those of Dovercourt. 
 There are a few bathing-machines 
 and a hot bath, and the esplanade to 
 the S. of the town forms an agree- 
 able walk extending to Beaconhill. 
 Walpole (1755) talks of "the new 
 salt-water baths at Harwich — which, 
 next to horse-racing, grows the most 
 fashionable resource for jDeople who 
 want to get out of town, and who 
 love the country and retirement." 
 For a long series of years the sea 
 liad been rapidly encroaching upon 
 tlie land, but tJie stone facing now 
 carried round the Beacon Clilf hais 
 arrested its progress. The view from 
 Beacon Hill is extensive and plea- 
 sant, especially when the sea is 
 dotted with fishing vessels. Land- 
 guard Fort is seen opposite ; Felix- 
 
60 
 
 BoiiteS. — Colchester to yudhnry. 
 
 Sec^. I. 
 
 btow ou the point of the Suftolk j The river Orwell, which is thus 
 coast farther N. ^^outhward, Walton- ' ascended, displays some of the 
 
 on-the-Xaze is marked by its tower. 
 (See nte. G). Inland the view ex- 
 tends lip the Stoiir. The Orwell is 
 not seen. Tlie lighthouses passed in 
 Ava Iking along the Esplanade to 
 Beaconhill, arc now disused. 
 
 Landgiiard Fort (mounting 36 
 guns), on a spit of land now joined 
 to the Suffolk coast (it is said that 
 the Stour once passed on the X. side 
 of it), was built in the reign of 
 James I. In lOHT it was attacked 
 by the Dutch, who landtd 3000 men 
 here. But the place was so vigor- 
 ously defended, that the enemy soon 
 retreated to their ships. Of late 
 years the fort has been much 
 strengthened, and young soldiers are 
 sent here for riHe practice. There 
 is a 15-gun battery at Shotley, on 
 the Sufiblk side of the Stour, — 
 another batteiy (4-gim) E. of Har- 
 wich, — and several martello-towers 
 on the Suffolk coast. All mount 
 guns of heavy calibre, and with 
 Landguard, form the defence of the 
 harbour. The eccentric Philip Thick- 
 nesse was for some time Governor of 
 Landguard Fort. Here he patron- 
 ized Gainsborough, soon after that 
 artist had settled at Ipswich ; and 
 (as Thicknesse tells us in his curious 
 memoirs, printed in 1788) '" I desired 
 him to come and eat a dinner with 
 me, and to take down in his poclcet- 
 book the particulars of the Fort, the 
 adjacent hills, and the distant view 
 of Harwich, in order to form a land- 
 scape of the yachts jiassing the 
 garrison under the salute of the 
 guns, of the size of a jianel over my 
 chimney-piece. ' This picture was 
 painted, but was unfortunately de- 
 stroyed by damp. Major was em- 
 ployed by Thicknesse to engrave it. 
 His print exists, but is very rare. 
 
 A steamer runs 3 times daily 
 between Harwich and Ipswich (and 
 more frequently during the summer) 
 making the transit in about 1 hour. 
 
 prettiest scenery in the Eastern 
 Counties, (For this excursion, see 
 Suffolk, Ete. 1, fyswich.) 
 
 ROUTE 8. 
 
 COLCHESTER TO SUDBURY, 
 
 ( This line of railicnij, connedinrj 
 Colchester with Sudhuri/, is also in 
 connection icitJi the Cambridge, Haver- 
 hill, and Sudhurij rly. It branches 
 from the Colchester main line at 
 'Marlc's-Teij.) 
 
 For CoLcnESTEPw and 
 
 5 m. Marlis-Tey Stat,, 46^ m. 
 from London (see Ete, 2), 
 
 8.| m. Chapel (or Pontisbright) 
 Stat, Here the rly. crosses the val- 
 ley and river of the Colne by a lofty 
 viaduct of 32 arches, 75 ft. above the 
 stream, 1066 ft. long, approached by 
 huge embankments. 
 
 p. A branch runs hence In* Earl's 
 Colne to Halstead. (Rte, 9).] 
 
 Opposite, on the 1, bank of the 
 river, is Walce's Colne. The first of 
 fom- villages here clustered upon the 
 Colne, and bearing the name of that 
 stream. 
 
 Here the line crosses the old tmn- 
 pike road between Colchester and 
 Cambridofe, 
 
ESSK 
 
 :x. 
 
 Boufe 8 . — B u res — Sudh ury. 
 
 Gl 
 
 13 m. Buves Stat. On 1. is tlie 
 tillage of Mount Bures, so called 
 from an ancient moated mound, 80 ft. 
 Ligli, " wMcli if it speak not for it- 
 self hath no other articulate voice." 
 
 [A similar mound in the par. of 
 Wonningford, 2 m. E., was removed 
 in 183(3, when hundreds of urns were 
 discovered, placed in parallel rows 
 like streets. Mr. Jenkins suggests 
 that they were the remains of the 
 9th Legion, who were advancing 
 (under Cerealis) from the Iceni, to 
 support their countrymen at Col- 
 chester (Camulodunum) in their 
 danger, and were cut off by the 
 Britons at the passage of the Stour. 
 "Their bodies might have been col- 
 lected and burnt by the Romans as 
 soon as they had recovered their 
 dominion." — Arclixologia, vol. xxix. 
 (See Colchesfer, Ete. 2.)] 
 
 [2 m. E. of Wormiugford is Little 
 Ilorliesley, where the Cli. eontuius 
 some interesting monuments. Tliere 
 are 3 large effigies in oak, 2 of which 
 are cross-legged, and date early in 
 the reign of Edw. I. Like those at 
 Danbury, they show the open surcoat 
 or cyclas. The other is a lady of 
 the &ame date. They are, no doubt, 
 effigies of a family named from the 
 place, who held Horkesley from the 
 time of John to 1322. It then passed 
 to the Swynbournes till about 1418. 
 In the cliancel is the altar tomb, 
 with hrass (2 figures under a canopy) 
 of Eobert de Swynbourne (d. 1391), 
 and his son, Sir Thomas, " jMayor of 
 Bordeaux," and Captain and Constable 
 of the Castle of Froissac in Guienne. 
 TJiis is a fine monument. In the S. 
 aisle is the tomb of John and Andrew 
 Swynbom-ne, 1 only of their brasses 
 remains, dating 1430.] 
 
 On the Suffolk side of the Stour, 
 hard by, is Bures St. il/a?-?/, where, or 
 at Bury, was crowned Edmund, King 
 of the East Angles. (The MS. life 
 by Geoffry of Fountains, in the 
 
 Camb. Univ. Library, makes it cer- 
 tainly Bures St. Mary — '• Super 
 Sturium fluvium.") In the Ch., 
 which is chiefly Dec, is an altar- 
 tomb with effigy for one of the 
 Cornard family, temp. Hen. HI. 
 There is also a late monument for 
 a Waldegrave (1613). 
 
 N. of Bures the Stour forms the 
 boundary between Essex and Suffolk 
 — the rly. crosses it midway bet«-een 
 Bures and Sudbury, 
 
 1. of the line is Twinstead Hall, 
 a large Elizabethan mansion (Hon, 
 T. H. T. Fermor), once surrounded 
 by a moat ; and nearer Sudbury, 
 
 1. Middleton. In the chancel of 
 the ch. is the effigy of a rector of 
 the parish in the 14th cent. 
 
 pProm here, about 2 m. 1., is Bel- 
 ch amp Walter CJt., the burial-place 
 of the Raymond family, who have 
 a fine monument above their vault 
 in the chancel. In this parish is 
 Belchamp Hall (Rev. J. Raymond), 
 the seat of the same family, who 
 have been resident in Essex for some 
 centuries. The house is of brick, 
 modern and formal, but of consider- 
 able size, and contains among other 
 pictures, portraits of Sir Hugh Myd- 
 delton, so celebrated for his labours 
 and losses on the New River, and his 
 wife, by Jansen. A younger son of 
 this Su' Hugh maii'ied the heiress 
 of the Soames of Goldingkani Hall, 
 in the adjacent parish of Buhner. 
 
 17 m. Sudbury (the South hurgh 
 or bury. Inns : Rose and Crown ; 
 White Horse; Christopher), in Suf- 
 folk, is an ancient borough town of 
 6018 Inhab., upon the Stour, made 
 navigable from the sea. A bridge 
 over it leads into Essex. The town 
 is large, straggling, and chiefly, if 
 not solely, interesting for its three 
 Churches. 
 
 Sudbury was one of the places 
 at which Edward III. established si 
 colony of Flemish weavers ; and the 
 town was long celebrated for its 
 manufactures of baize, bunting, and 
 
62 
 
 Txoute S.-^SitdhuDj. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 shronds. These are nearly extinct, 
 but have been replaced by a manu- 
 facture of silk and crape, transferred 
 hitlier from Spitalfiekls by the 
 masters in consequence of quarrels 
 with their workmen, and strilvcs. A 
 good deal of cocoa-nut matting is 
 also made here. In the main street 
 is an imposing Corn Hall. 
 
 The 3 churches are St. Peter's, All 
 Saints, and St. Gregory's. (Tlie doors 
 of St. Peter's and St. Gregory's are 
 kept always open.) St. Peter's (op- 
 posite the Rose and Crown ) has been 
 restored. It is Perp., with a lofty 
 main arcade, and some good wood 
 work in the chancel screens. The 
 tower has emblems of the four 
 Evangelists at the corners, and 
 smaller figures between, with hands 
 raised in prayer. All Saints, in the 
 lower part of the town is also Perp. 
 with perhaps an earlier (Dec.) chan- 
 cel. The open roof and the original 
 doors remain. There is some very 
 good screen work, and an oaken pul- 
 pit with the date 1490. The ancient 
 galleries in the tower here, and in 
 St. Peter's, should also be remarked. 
 St. Gregory's is Perp. like the others, 
 but of greater interest. Part of it 
 was certainly built by Simon Tybald, 
 or as he is generally called, Simon 
 of Sudbury, the unfortimate Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury (1375 — 1381) 
 who was beheaded (1381) by Wat 
 Tyler's mob. While Bishop of Lon- 
 don, to which see he was consecrated 
 in 1362, he rebuilt part of this ch., 
 and founded a college of secular 
 priests on tlie site of his father's 
 house, close adjoining. The body of 
 the archbishop was interred in his 
 own cathedral, where his mouimient 
 still remains. "Not many years ago, 
 when this tomb was accidentally 
 opened, the body was seen within, 
 wrapped in cerecloth, a leaden ball 
 occupying tlie vacant space of the 
 head." — Stanley s ' Historical Memo- 
 rials of Canterbury.' The head is 
 said to have been brought to his 
 native town ; and a skull is still shown 
 
 in the vestry (within a small grated 
 ojDening in the wall) which there is 
 good reason for believing to be that 
 of Archbishop Simon. The choir- 
 stalls in this ch. are worth notice, 
 and were no doubt provided for the 
 priests of the archbishop's college. 
 The modern font is covered by an 
 ancient " spire " of tabernacled work, 
 — one of the best and most jierfect 
 examples in the country. It is very 
 lofty, towering far above the piers of 
 the nave arcade ; and, from the traces 
 whicli remain, was once splendid 
 with gold and vermilion. Matrices 
 of large brasses, one of them for a 
 bishop (perhaps a memorial of Arch- 
 bishop Simon) are in the flooring of 
 the nave ; but the most remarkable 
 tomb is in a small Perp. chapel, 
 opening E. of the S. porch. It is 
 that of Thomas Carter, who left con- 
 siderable sums to the poor of the 
 place ; and the inscription records 
 the passing of this Sudbury camel 
 thi'ough the eye of a needle. '' Viator, 
 miruni referam. Quo die efflavit 
 animam prsedictus Thos. Carter, acus 
 foramen transivit Camelus Sudbu- 
 riensis. Vade ; et si dives sis tu fac 
 similiter. Vale." 
 
 The Perp. gateway of St. Gregory's 
 College is standing. The rest of the 
 site is occupied by a " Union " for 
 the poor, which cost 10,000?. 
 
 At Sudbury was born, 1727, the 
 son of a clothier. Thomas Gains- 
 horough, whose earliest studies were 
 taken from the pastoral scener}'- of 
 the Stour. The house in whicli he 
 was bom, formerly the ' Black Horse 
 Inn,' still exists in Seijulchre St., 
 in the parish of St. Gregory, and is 
 picturesque in spite of its dilapifhi- 
 tion. At the back was a large 
 orchard, the fruit of wliich was con- 
 stantly stolen. No clue to the thief 
 could be obtained. But one morning, 
 as young Gainsborough was sketch- 
 ing in a summer-house at the end 
 of the orchard, he saw a man scale 
 tlie fence, and climb a jjear-tree. 
 He quietly sketched him; and the 
 
EssE\% 
 
 Uoufe 9. — Cotcltesier to SaverJiill. 
 
 63 
 
 portrait of the thief was recop:nised 
 a.s tliat of a man living in Sndbury. 
 " Tom Peartrce's portrait " as it was 
 called, was long preserved. In later 
 life, Gainsborough sometimes re- 
 turned to his native scenery ; and 
 more than one of his landscapes is 
 '' a view near Sudbury." His initials, 
 and a deep-cut figure, apparently a 
 caricature of his master, still exist 
 on the wall of the Grammar School, 
 where he was first taught. Enfield, 
 the compiler of the well-known 
 ' Speaker,' was born at Sudbury in 
 1741. 
 
 Sudbury was disfrancliised, as a 
 notoriously corrupt borough, in 1S43. 
 
 [2| m. N. of Sudbury, in Borley 
 Ch., Essex, is an Elizabethan monu- 
 ment, 14 ft. high, with effigies of 
 Sir Ed. Waldegrave and his wife. 
 The figures are recumbent beneath 
 a canopy sustained by Corinthian 
 pillars. At the side is a kneeling 
 figure of Magdalene Waldegrave, 
 died 1598. Sir Edward was Master 
 of the Wardrobe to Philip and Mary, 
 and died in the Tower in 1561. His 
 wife survived imtil 159'j.] 
 
 [For the line from Sudbury to 
 Bury St. Edmimds, see Suffolk, 
 Kte. 3. For that to Clare and Cam- 
 bridge, Suffolk, Rte. 4.] 
 
 nOUTE 9. 
 
 COLCHESTER TO HAVERHILL, BY 
 HALSTEAD AND CASTLE HEDING- 
 HAM. 
 
 (Colne Valley Ely. This rly., in 
 connection with the main Colchester 
 line, branches from Chapel, on the 
 branch line to Sudbury (Rte. 8), 
 and following for the greater portion 
 of its course the valley of the Colne 
 river, runs to Haverhill, on the line 
 between Sudbury and Cambridge. 
 The distance from Chapel to Haver- 
 hill is 19 m. This route has an 
 especial interest for the archaeologist, 
 since it leads him through the 
 ancient domains of the great house 
 of De Vere). 
 
 For the line from Colchester to 
 Chapel, see Rte, 8. 
 
 2 m. beyond Chapel is the stat. at 
 Earl's Colne or Great Monk's Colne. 
 (Pop. 1540.) This is an ancient 
 town on the rt. bank of the Colne ; 
 tlie manor belonged to the De Veres, 
 Earls of Oxford (wlience its name), 
 until 1583, and afterwards became, 
 by purchase, the seat of their steward, 
 Roger Harlackenden, and remained 
 in the hands of his descendants till 
 1G72. The earlier house of the 
 Oxfords, called Hall Place, was 
 gone even when Leland wrote. It 
 stood near the ch. Tiie handsome 
 modern mansion of H. N. Carwar- 
 dine, Esq., occupies the site of the 
 Benedictine Priory, founded by Al- 
 beric or Aubrey, the progenitor of 
 the De Veres, before 1100, as a cell 
 to the great house of Benedictines 
 at Abingdon. It was long the prin- 
 cipal burial-i^lace of its founders. 
 (Both Earls Colne and Castle 
 Hedingham, the heads of the barony, 
 are recorded in Domesday as then 
 held by Alberic). Here lay 13 re- 
 
64 
 
 MoiUe 9. — EarVs Golne — Halstead. 
 
 Sect. T. 
 
 presentatives of that noble race, 
 from Alberic of Guisnes, the founder 
 of their house, to John, wlio died in 
 1562. " They loved the church full 
 well, and gave full largely to it;" 
 but at the Dissolution their Priory 
 was destroyed, and of their *monu- 
 ments, 4 only were preserved (though 
 much shattered and defaced) by 
 being removed into the jDarish church 
 of St. Andrew. They are now, liow- 
 evcr, arranged in a cloister attached 
 to the garden of the modern priory. 
 Three of these effigies are carved in 
 alabaster, and one in stone. They 
 are supposed to commemorate Ko- 
 bert, the fifth Earl, who died in 1295 ; 
 Thomas, the eighth'Eiivl (died 1371 j; 
 Robert, the ninth Earl, Marquis of 
 Dublin and Duke of Ireland (died 
 1392), and liis second wife Lance- 
 rona Serjeaulx, the joiner's daughter. 
 (She wears the piked-horn or high 
 head-dress introduced by Anne of 
 Bohemia, queen of Eichard II,, to 
 whom she had been maid of honour ; 
 this is the head-dress Avhich Walpole 
 says is " exactly like the description 
 of Mount Parnassus," with two tops.) 
 This great duke died at Louvain ; 
 and Eichard II., by Avhom he had 
 been banished, caused his l)ody to be 
 brought over, insisted that the coffin 
 should be opened, so that he might 
 once more see his favourite, and at- 
 tended it himself in high procession 
 to Earl's Colne. John, fourteenth 
 Earl (died 152G), in his will directs 
 his "body to be binied at the high 
 altar of Our Lady's Chapel in the 
 Priory of Colne in Essex, in a tomb 
 which I liave made for me and 
 Ma]-garet, my late wife, where she 
 is now buried." 
 
 [The monument of Eobert do 
 Vere, third Earl, is in the cli. of 
 Hattield Broad Oak (see Ete. 10). 
 Tliat of Jolin, fiftcentli Earl, died 
 1539, is in the ch. of Castle Heding- 
 liam — see tlie present Ete. post, 
 where also will be found a long ac- 
 count of the De Yercs.] 
 
 Upon the E. and W. sides of tlie 
 lower of luirVs Colne Ch., built in 
 1532, are the armorial ensigns of 
 John, tlie sixteenth Earl, and above 
 on the E. side, is the family badge 
 of the mullet. Lord Chancellor 
 Audley, of Walden, was born in 
 1488, at the Hay House, in Earl's 
 Colne. 
 
 Colne Encjaine Church, rt, (the 
 parish is so called from tiie Engaine 
 family which long jjossessed it) has 
 a good brick tower of the reign of 
 Henry VII., probably built by the 
 De Veres, whose mullet appears upon 
 its E. side. This star or " mullet " 
 had its origin in a legend thus re- 
 corded by Leland (' Itin.,' vol. vi.) : — 
 "In the year 1098, Corborant, Ad- 
 miral of the Soldan of Persia, was 
 fought with at Antioch, and discom- 
 fited by the Christians. The night 
 coming on in the chase of this bat- 
 tayle, and waxing dark, the Chris- 
 tians being four miles from Antioch, 
 God, willing the safety of the Chris- 
 tians, showed a white star or mullet 
 of five ]:)oints, on the Christian host, 
 which to every man's sight did alight 
 and arrest upon the standard of 
 Aubrey de Vere, there shining ex- 
 cessively.' This was Aubrey de 
 Vere, first Earl of Oxford ; and the 
 grandson of Alberic, founder of the 
 Priory at Earl's Colne. Proceediug 
 along the valley of the Colne, the 
 next stat. is 
 
 G m. Halstead. {Tnn: George, 
 best, but none good. Pop. 6917). A 
 name which local partiality inter- 
 ])rets " the ' stede ' or dwelling of 
 health," and appeals for proof there- 
 of to the gravelly soil. The town 
 stands on a hill. Three large silk 
 and crape mills, belonging to Messrs. 
 Courtauld and Co., employ about 
 1000 persons, and there are numer- 
 ous looms. The Farish Church, a 
 large building, dedicated to St. 
 Andrew, has a wooden spiie, re- 
 edified in 1717, by Mr. Fisk, an 
 apothecary of this town, whose 
 
Es^EX. 
 
 Boute 9. — Stanstead and Gosfield Hcdls. 
 
 66 
 
 '^^•orthy act has been commemorated 
 by Prior in verse, of which the senti- 
 ment is better than the poetry — 
 
 " Blest be he called among good men 
 AVho to his Gud this column raised; 
 Though lightning strike the dome again 
 The man who built it should be praised." 
 
 In the S. aisle are two monnments, 
 both bearing effigies of knights and 
 ladies. One of these is supposed to 
 be the monument of Sir Eobert 
 Bourchier (see "post). The greater 
 part of the building has been restored 
 at a cost of 5500Z. 
 
 Stansted Hall, in the parish of 
 Halstead, was the chief seat of the 
 great house of Bourchier, of Avhom 
 Sir Robert, whose monument pos- 
 sibly remains in the ch., was Lord 
 Chancellor to Edward III., fighting 
 foi- him by sea and land, at Cressy 
 and elsewhere, with a following of 
 100 archers; and (15 Edward III.) 
 receiving licence to crenellate his 
 house at Halsti-ad. Of this same 
 stock came Sir William Bourchier, 
 created by Henry V., Earl of Eu, in 
 Normandy, and father (by his wife 
 Anne, eldest daughter of Thomas of 
 Woodstock. 6tli son of Edward III.), 
 of Henry, Earl of Essex, and of Car- 
 dinal Bourchier, whose episcopate, of 
 51 years (he was bishop successively 
 of Worcester and Ely, and Arch- 
 bishop of Canter bur)^) was one of 
 the longest in tlie English church. 
 (Tlie longest hitherto has been 
 Bishop Wilson's (Sodor and Man), 
 which lasted 57 years). Two new 
 Churches have been built at Halstead 
 .since 1843, chiefly at the expense of 
 Mrs. Gee, of Earl's Colne; one on 
 Chapel Hill (1844), and that of St. 
 James, on Greenstead Green, 2 m, S. 
 of Halstead. 
 
 [2i m. S. W. of Halstead is Gos- 
 field Hall (S. Courtauld, Esq.), origin- 
 ally a brick house of the reign of 
 Henry VII., in plan a quadrangle, 
 into which all the windows opened, 
 leaving the exterior face a dead 
 wall up to the first story for the 
 
 sake of defence. The buildings 
 were only a single room in depth, 
 and there was no internal com- 
 munication without passing through 
 from one room to another. Gos- 
 field, first held of the De Veres, 
 belonged afterwards to the Eolfes 
 and Wentworths. The heiress of 
 the Wentworths married Sir Hugh 
 Rich, 2nd son of Lord Chancellor 
 Rich ; and after her husband's 
 death Queen Elizabeth twice visited 
 Lady Rich here. The Queen's Gal- 
 lery (so named from these visits), 
 on the W. side and first floor, is 106 
 ft. long by 12 ft. wide. This side 
 alone is original ; the rest was re- 
 built in the last century by John 
 Knight, Esq., who became possessed 
 of this place about 1705. Walpole, 
 writing of it in 1748, says, " Gosfield 
 is extremely in fashion, but did not 
 answer to me, though there are fine 
 things about it ; but being situated 
 in a country that is quite l^locked up 
 with hills upon hills, and even too 
 much wood, it has not an inch of 
 prosj)ect. The park is to be 1600 
 acres, and is bounded with a wood 
 of 5 miles round; and the lake, 
 which is very beautiful, is of 70 
 acres, directly in a line with the 
 house. The house is vast, built 
 round a very old court that has never 
 been fine ; the old windows and gate- 
 way left, and the old gallery, which 
 
 is a bad narrow room The 
 
 house is all modernized, but in 
 patches, and in the bad taste that 
 came between the charming vener- 
 able Gothic and jjure architecture. 
 . . . . But what charmed me more 
 than all I had seen, is the library 
 chimney, which has existed from 
 the foundation of the house ; over it 
 is an alto-relievo in wood, far from 
 being ill done, of the battle of Bos- 
 worth Field. It is all white except 
 tlie helmets and trappings, which are 
 gilt, and the shields, which are pro- 
 perly blazoned with the arms of all 
 the chiefs engaged, and said to have 
 been brought from the house of the 
 
ee 
 
 Itoute 9. — Little Maplestead. 
 
 Sect. t. 
 
 Do Veres at Bois." Drawings of 
 this cliimney-piece, by the antiquary 
 John Carter, exist in the possession 
 of Louis A. Majendie, Esq., of Hed- 
 ingham. It appears to be of the early 
 part of the 16tli cent. Figures of 
 Henry VII. and his queen were 
 over the representation of Bosworth 
 Field. The two armies appear at 
 the moment when the conflict drew 
 to its close, — the king lying pros- 
 trate before the victor in the fore- 
 ground — holding his crown. 
 
 The master of Gosfield in "Wal- 
 pole's time was Kobert Xugent 
 (created Lord Clare), a poet, author, 
 patriot, and Irish peer, eminently 
 successful in gaining lucrative 
 places and rich widows. He ob- 
 tained Gosfield with Ann, widow of 
 John Knight, and daughter of Secre- 
 tary Craggs ; and his only daughter 
 married the first Marquis of Buck- 
 ingham. Goldsmith, who visited 
 Nugent here, addresses his ' Haunch 
 of Venison' to him— the haunch 
 having been supplied from the forest 
 lawns of Gosfield — 
 
 " finer or fatter 
 
 Ne'er ranged in a forest, or smoked in a 
 platter." 
 
 The Temples ruined the house, and 
 carried off the pictures to Stowe, and 
 the chimney-piece no one knows 
 whither — it is not at Stowe. Louis 
 XVIII. and his family were here 
 for a short time before they removed 
 to Hartwell, in Bucks. The estate 
 was sold in 1851, for 100,000?.; and 
 consisted then of 2720 acres. 
 
 There are fine cedars in the gar- 
 dens, and tulip-trees in the grounds. 
 
 In the Ch. Mrs. Knight (Nugent) 
 has a monument by Guelfi, and there 
 are monuments for Sir Hugh Ricli 
 and several of the Nugents. Tlie 
 living was held (1734 — 1750) by 
 Walter Hartc, author of the ' Life of 
 Gustavus Adolphus;' Mrs. Knight 
 presented him to it. 
 
 [2 m. N. of Hal stead stands the 
 Ch. of Little 3Iaplestead, the latest 
 
 and smallest of the four extant 
 English Round Clmrches. The 
 other three are — St. Sepulchre's 
 Cambridge (Norm., temp. Hen. I.); 
 the Temple Church, in London, of 
 which the circular nave was conse- 
 crated in 1185 ; and St. Sepulchre's, 
 Northampton, dating from the early 
 part of the 13th centy. Of these, 
 the London ch. alone was built by 
 the Knights Templars ; the three 
 others were the work of the Hospi- 
 tallers. The peculiar form of all 
 four was imitated from that of the 
 Church of the Holy Sepulchre at 
 Jerusalem. The ch, of Little ^Nlaple- 
 stead (ded. to St. John the Bapitist) 
 stands detached in the fields. The 
 original building may have been 
 erected soon after 1186; when the 
 manor of Little Maplestead was 
 granted by Juliana D'Oisnel to the 
 Hospitallers, w'ho established a com- 
 mandery here. The walls alone, 
 however, a fragment of a Norm, 
 font, and the eastern window of the 
 apse, can be of this period. The 
 pillars of the nave are Early Dec, 
 and cannot be assigned to an earlier 
 time than the reign of Edward' I. 
 The windows are still later, possibly 
 temp. Edward III. The ch. consists 
 of a circular nave, 29 ft. in diameter, 
 lighted by four windows, and divided 
 into an inner circle and an external 
 aisle by six clustered columns. 
 Counter arches, of similar character, 
 span the aisle, from each column to 
 the outer wall. Both aisle and cen- 
 tre have flat ceilings of wood. The 
 oblong chancel is 35 ft. in length, 
 and terminates in a semicircular 
 apse. Besides the E, window there 
 are four others, smaller than those 
 in the nave, but of similar character. 
 The W. porch, of the 15th centy., is 
 of wood, and very massively con- 
 structed. The W. door of the nave 
 (temp. Edw. I.) is especially good in 
 its mouldings and details. The 
 whole ch. was restored (1852), under 
 the superintendence of Mr. Car- 
 penter, the architect, at a cost of 
 
Essex. Boiite 9.— Great Maptestead — Sibte RecUngham. G7 
 
 3000/. The windows have been 
 filled with painted glass; and al- 
 though the arches and piers were 
 *' removed, reworked, and rebuilt," 
 cfire was taken that every stone 
 should be exactly replaced. 
 
 The ch. is said to have enjoyed an 
 especial right of sanctuary. It is 
 the only one of the round churches 
 of which the chancel has no aisle. 
 Cambridge has a N. chancel aisle. 
 The Temple and Northampton both 
 N. and S. aisles. 
 
 Great Maplestead Clmrcli (1 m. W. 
 of Little Maplestead) has a semi- 
 circular apse, and contains in the S. 
 chapel two elaborate monuments to 
 Sir John and Lady Dean, 1610, and 
 their numerous children. Both 
 Maplesteads were no doubt named 
 from the maple-trees which formerly 
 abounded there.] 
 
 [3 m. N.E. of Halstead, and about 
 the same distance E. of Little Maple- 
 stead, is Pebmarsh Church, in which 
 is the brass of Sir William FitzKalph, 
 circ. 1323 — the earliest in the county. 
 He is cross-legged ; and his armour 
 well exemplifies the first steps in 
 the supercession of mail by i^late. 
 Sir William served in the Scottish 
 wars of Edw. I. ; and in 1314 was 
 Conservator of the Peace for Essex. 
 In the E. window of the S. aisle are 
 two shields of Eitz-Ealph (temp. 
 Edw. II.) — fine examples of heraldic 
 glass.] 
 
 The next station, 9J m. serves for 
 both Sihle and Castle Hedingham. 
 In the parish of Sible Hedingham 
 (the particular Sybil or Sibella 
 from whom it was named is un- 
 known) is Haiohtoood Manor, said 
 to have been the inheritance of Sir 
 John Hawkwood (died 1394), a bold, 
 savage, and unscrupulous soldier 
 of fortune, who, after beginning life 
 as a tailor, won much renown in 
 the wars of Edw. III. (by whom he 
 was knighted) and the Black Prince, 
 and afterwards became a leader of 
 
 Black Bands and Condottieri in the 
 wars of France and Italy. So highly 
 were his services esteemed by the 
 state of Florence, that a monument 
 was erected to his memory at the 
 public expense, which may still be 
 seen in the cathedral there. A ceno- 
 taph raised in the Ch. of St. Peter in 
 Sible Hedingham, under an arch in 
 the S. aisle, which bore the rebus of 
 a hawk flying through a wood, in 
 allusion to his name, has long eince 
 disajDpeared, except a part of the 
 canopy. Figures of hawks carved 
 in different parts of the ch. indicate 
 either that the ch. Avas rebuilt by 
 himself, which is possible, or by his 
 family. It dates temp. Edw. III. 
 The circular jDainted window in the 
 chancel, was unhappily inserted in 
 1824, with four others. 
 
 An old house still called "The 
 Hostage" (Hostelage) was the re- 
 sidence of a jiriest, attached to a 
 chantry founded in the ch. for the 
 souls of Sir John Hawkwood, 
 Thomas Oliver, and John Newen- 
 ton, — the two latter companions of 
 Hawkwood, and also soldiers of for- 
 tune. The " Hostage " also served 
 as a lodging for pilgrims to Bury 
 and Walsingham. 
 
 The smaller village of Castle 
 Hedingham {Inn : Bell), on the 1. 
 bank of the Colne, is pleasantly 
 situated in a pretty and varied dis- 
 trict, in which, among other produce, 
 hops are much cultivated. This was 
 the chief seat, stronghold, and head 
 of the Imrony of the De Veres, Earls 
 of Oxford ; one of those great Eng- 
 lish families whose armorial ensigns 
 and quarterings are scattered widely 
 throughout the churches and halls 
 of Eastern England. The points of 
 interest here (besides the chm-ch) 
 are the great Norm, tower ; a fine 
 Perp. brick bridge over the ditch ; a 
 few traces of the walls and towers sur- 
 rounding the inner court; and the 
 earthworks on the N.E. of the garden. 
 
 The Castle of the De Veres occu- 
 pied the summit of a steep knoll, 
 
C3 
 
 llouie 9. — HedinrjTiam : Castle. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 rendered steeper by art, girt -with a 
 moat, and crowned by a wall, which 
 included the principal court, a space 
 of nearly 3 acres. This was entered 
 over a bridge. All the minor build- 
 ings except the bridge have disap- 
 peared; venerable trees clothe the 
 sides of the steep ; and the castle is 
 now represented merely by the an- 
 cient *Keep, which stands a little to 
 the E. of the centre of the knoll, 
 and in the grounds of the modem 
 red brick Manor House, the seat of 
 L. A. Majendie. Esq. It is a very 
 fine specimen of a Norm, keep, built 
 between 1070 and 1100, in excellent 
 preservation, and more enriched than 
 was usual with such structures. The 
 material is flint and rubble-stone, 
 wholly cased with oolite ashlar, 
 brought, like the casings of Peter- 
 borough Catliedral and Bury Abbey, 
 from Bamack in Northamptonshire. 
 The plan of the Keep is quadran- 
 gular, 60 ft. by 55 ft. ; its walls are 
 12 ft. thick below, 10 ft. above, and 
 their height to the summit of the 
 flanking turrets, of which two out of 
 four remain, is 100 ft. It has four 
 stages or floors, the entrance being 
 by a large and enriched Xorm. door, 
 constructed for a portcullis, upon the 
 first floor, and approached by an 
 exterior staircase, broken for a draw- 
 bridge. The entrance to the keep 
 is on the W. side, that into the court 
 on the E. A former proprietor broke 
 two openings from without into the 
 ground floor, originally entered only 
 from the story above. The second 
 stage has a fire-place, but though 
 enriched, it is much less so than the 
 third or princij^al floor, where is a 
 handsome round-headed fire-place, 
 with shafts and zigzasr mouldings, 
 which are repeated in the arches of 
 the window-recesses all round. This 
 chamber (measuring 38 ft. by 31 ft.) 
 is spanned by a large Xorm. arch, 
 which serves to support the floor 
 above. The 2nd. 3rd. and 4th 
 stages have triforial galleries, and 
 various small chambers in the wall. 
 
 j These of course are vaulted, which 
 I is not the case with any of the main 
 j apartments. The winding stair is 
 in the X.W. angle. The view from 
 ! the Keep is noticeable. " Xorth 
 Essex, as seen from the upper win- 
 dows, contents the eye with rural 
 beauty of the quiet order : a beauty 
 produced bv centuries of planting 
 and tillage."— IFA^Ye'*^ • East. Eng.' 
 
 The lands of Hedingham, wrested 
 from the Saxon Ulfwin, were be- 
 stowed by the Conqueror upon 
 Alberic 'culled Count of Guines, in 
 right of his wife") ; and he appears 
 as their lord iu Domesday. 
 
 This Alberic was the founder of 
 the hotise of De Vere. His grand- 
 son was created by Hen. H., Earl of 
 Oxford ; and a succession of 19 earls 
 followed (from 1137 to 1703)— a 
 succession without parallel in the 
 English peerage. Alberic was tlius, 
 as far as the establishment and long 
 continuance of his house were con- 
 cerned, the most fortunate of the 
 Conqueror's followers. His surname 
 of Vere or "de Ver," is of uncertain 
 origin, and has afforded much em- 
 ployment to the heralds. A genea- 
 logy given by Leland in his Itiner- 
 ary, begins with Xoah, takes in 
 Meleager and Diomedes. and comes 
 at last to a certain Veru?, ancestor 
 by one son to the Emperor Marcus 
 Aurelius Verus. and by another to 
 ^liles de Vere. Duke of Anglers and 
 Mentz, in the days of Charles the 
 Great. From tt;e latter, according 
 to this edifying chronicler, is derived 
 Alberic of Guines. O'ere is no 
 doubt the name of a place, though it 
 can hardly be Vere in Zealand, as 
 has been asserted. M. de Gerville 
 suggests that the house took its 
 name from Ver, on the river Ver, 
 below Coutances.) The Earls of 
 Oxford were hereditary Lord High 
 Chamberlains; and their history is 
 in fact the history of England. The 
 9th earl, created Duke of Ireland, 
 has been alreadv mentioned {ante, 
 Earl's Colne.) ' The 12th earl, 
 
Essex. 
 
 Boiiie 9. — Hedingham : Castle. 
 
 00 
 
 Jolm. and his valiant son Aubrey, 
 sealed their attachment to the Eed 
 Eose on the scaftbld on Tower Hill, 
 under lulward IV. But the political 
 faith of the family descended unim- 
 paired to John, the second son and 
 IBth earl, who bore the sword in 
 1470 at the coronation of Henry VI., 
 and after a long imjirisonment, at- 
 tainder, and banishment, mainly 
 contributed, by his command of the 
 vanguard at Bosworth, to the restora- 
 tion of " the aspiring biood of Lan- 
 caster." This was tlie earl w^ho 
 entertained Henry VII. so sump- 
 tuously at Hedingham, and was so 
 ungratefully mulcted by him in 
 1U,000Z. for displaying here a num- 
 ber of retainers greater than the 
 law allowed, in his wish to do his 
 sovereign honour. He died at Hed- 
 ingham (1513), having held the 
 earldom iifty years. His body lay 
 in state in tlie ch., and was buried 
 with unusual splendour at Colne, 
 900 black gowns being given away 
 at his funeral. The ITth earl, with 
 whom there was "scandal about 
 Queen Elizabeth," and who married 
 Lord Bm-leigli"s daughter, was an 
 unthrift, pulled down the buildings 
 erected by his predecessor after 
 Bosworth, wasted the parks, and 
 alienated much of the land. He 
 was, says Stowe, "the first that 
 brought perfumed gloves and such 
 fineries out of Italy into this king- 
 dom." Henry, his son, 18th earl, 
 married a wealthy wife, repurchased 
 the estates, and improved the pro- 
 perty. He died, in 1625 ; the title 
 passed to a cousin, and became ex- 
 tinct on the death of the 20th earl, 
 in 1708. Diana, widow of the 18th 
 earl, sold Hedingham and the other 
 estates, which had been 550 years in 
 the family. The two last earls were 
 l^oor, and the heiress of the estate 
 and name was married to the first 
 Duke of St. Albans— Nell Gw}ti's 
 son by Charles II. But the titles 
 were not unclnimcd by those wdio 
 rofesscd to be descendants iu the 
 
 male line. As late as the reign of 
 George III. there was on Tower 
 Hill a small tradesman who laid 
 claim to tlie grand old dignities of 
 the De Veres : but on the death of 
 liis only son, he resolved to take no 
 further steps to establish his descent. 
 In every age of our history the 
 race of Vere played a distinguished 
 part. They fought at Hastings 
 imder William, and in many fields 
 in behalf of the Empress Matilda ; 
 were conservators of Magna Charta, 
 braved the papal thunders for their 
 opposition to John, took knighthood 
 at the hands of Simon de Montfort, 
 led forty spears under the Black 
 Prince at Poictiers, where " Oxford 
 charged the van," and at Xajara: 
 commanded a wing at Barnet, and 
 the van at Bosworth ; four times 
 received the honour of the Garter ; 
 and finally upheld their reputation 
 for valour and skill in the person of 
 Sir Francis Vere, and his brother 
 Horatio, Lord Vere of Tilbiuy, of 
 whom, though one was more loved 
 and the other more feared, both 
 were " honoured in war and lamented 
 in peace," and were among the 
 boldest and best generals who up- 
 held the renown of the English 
 name under Elizabeth, in the wars 
 of the Netherlands. " It may be 
 a question," says Naunton, writing 
 of Sir Francis Vere, " whether the 
 nobility of his house or the honour 
 of his achievements might most com- 
 mend him They report that 
 
 the queen, as she loved martial men, 
 would court this gentleman as soon 
 as he appeared in her presence." — 
 Fragmenta llegalia. Alberic de 
 Vere, canon of St. Osyth in the 
 reign of Henry II., was the bio- 
 grapher of that saint and historian 
 of her monastery. In the last Earl, 
 Aubrey de Vere, "closed," says Lord 
 Macaulay, " the longest and most 
 illustrious line of nobles that Eng- 
 land has seen." When in 1687 
 James II. determined to pack a 
 Parliament, and to retain in office 
 
70 
 
 Bouie 9. — Hedinglcam: Castle; Church. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 only those who would support him, De 
 Vere, then Lord Lieutenant of Essex, 
 declared that he would stand by the 
 king to the last drop of his blood ; 
 "but this is matter of conscience, 
 and I cannot comply." He was at 
 once deprived of his Lord-Lieute- 
 nancy, and of his regiment of the 
 Blues. 
 
 The 24 quarterings of the earls of 
 Oxford, their crest of the blue boar, 
 " verres," their badge of tlie mullet 
 (see ante, Colne Engane), and their 
 motto " Vero nil verius," (words 
 said to have been lirst pronounced 
 by Queen Elizabeth in commenda- 
 tion of the loyalty of the Veres), are 
 familiar to the herald and topogra- 
 pher as well as to the architectural 
 antiquary. (The best account of 
 tliis great house will be found in 
 Halstead's ' Succinct Genealogy of 
 the Family of Yere,' 1685.) 
 
 In 1625, on the death of Earl 
 Henry, tlie earldom was contested 
 between Eobert de Yere and Bertie 
 Lord Willoughby d'Eresby, ances- 
 tor of the present Earls of Lindsey 
 and Abingdon. Chief Justice Crewe 
 gave judgment for the male line in 
 a sentence worthy to be borne in 
 mind by those who visit this ancient 
 castle. (" The exordium of his speech 
 is among the finest specimens of 
 the ancient English eloquence." — 
 Macaulay, ch. viii. 7wte) : — 
 
 " No king in Christendom 
 
 hath such a subject as Oxford. He 
 came in with the Conqueror, Earl of 
 Guynes ; shortly after the Conquest 
 made great chamberlain, above 500 
 years ago, by Henry I., the Con- 
 queror's son, brother to Rufus ; by 
 Maud the Empress, Earl of Oxford " 
 (really by Hen. II.) 
 
 " This great honour, this high and 
 noble dignity, hatli continued ever 
 since in the remarkable surname of 
 De Vere, by so many ages, descents, 
 and generations, as no other king- 
 dom can ])rodure such a peer in one 
 and tlie self-same name and title. . . 
 I find in all this length of time but 
 
 two attainders of this noble family, 
 and those in stormy and tempestuous 
 times, when the government was 
 unsettled and the kingdom in com- 
 petition. . . I have laboured to make 
 a covenant with myself that affection 
 may not press upon judgment ; for I 
 suppose there is no man that hath 
 any apprehensif)n of gentry or noble- 
 ness but his affection stands to the 
 continuance of so noble a name and 
 house, and would take hold of a twig 
 or twine-thi-ead to uphold it. And 
 yet Time hath his revolutions : there 
 must be a period and an end to all 
 temporal things, finis rerum, an end 
 of names and dignities, and whatso- 
 ever is terrene ; and why not of De 
 Yere? — for where is Boliun? where 
 is Mowbray i where is Mortimer ? 
 nay, what is more, and most of all, 
 where is Planta genet? They are 
 entombed in the urns and sepulchres 
 of mortality. And yet let the name 
 and dignity of De Vere stand so 
 long as it i:)leasetli God." — Cruise, 
 ' Dignities,' p. 102. 
 
 S.E. of the castle the piety of the 
 1st countess, before 1190 founded a 
 Benedictine nunnery, now a fiirm- 
 house, of which she was afterwards 
 prioress, the earl taking the cowl in 
 the priory at Earl's Colne, founded 
 by his ancestor Alberic (see the pre- 
 sent Etc., ante). 
 
 The * Church of St. Nicholas bears 
 marks of the great earls, its probable 
 builders, in the boars and mullets 
 upon its walls. It is an ancient and 
 interesting building — except the 
 present tower of brick; built about 
 1616. The chancel is a good ex- 
 ample of the transition style between 
 Norm, and E. Eng. The buttresses 
 are plain Norm, pilasters. The E. 
 window is triple with shafts, and 
 round heads, enclosing a pointed 
 opening, and above is a circle. The 
 shafts are slender, of E. Eng. pro- 
 j)ortions, but with the square Norm, 
 abacus, and in the windows is the 
 billet moulding. Outside also are 
 
Ess ::x. Boute 9 . — Kirhy — Bidgewell — Birdhrooh 
 
 71 
 
 E. Eng. shafts, and the central win- 
 dow has a dripstone, but the abacus 
 of the shafts is continued in the 
 Norm, fashion along tlie wall as a 
 string. These windows also rest 
 uj^on a string. The circle has round- 
 headed compartments, but is other- 
 Avise of E. Eng. character. Under 
 the chancel arch is a very rich and 
 jKrfect rood-screen of wood, filled 
 Avith Dec. tracery. The nave is 
 Norm., consisting of low piers, sup- 
 porting round arches, surmounted by 
 a fine open wooden roof of the 16th 
 cent. There is a good Norm, door- 
 way to the chancel, and the nave 
 door has some old iron scroll-work. 
 
 In the chancel is an altar-tomb for 
 John, the 15th earl, K.G. and Great 
 Chamberlain of England, died 1539, 
 his countess and their children. It is 
 of the black marble called "Touch," 
 and has on the upper slab kneeling 
 figures of the earl and his countess, 
 with the arms of Vere imj)aling 
 those of Trussel, above them. This 
 earl married the heiress of the 
 Trussels. At the sides of the tomb 
 are kneeling figures of sons and 
 daughters. The whole tomb is a 
 fine example of the art and design 
 of its time. (An oak bedstead (or 
 chair of state?) probably made for 
 this earl, and displaying his quarter- 
 iugs, is preserved in the modern 
 Hedingham Castle.) Various ban- 
 ners, helmets, and heraldic orna- 
 ments moulder upon the walls. 
 
 Sir T. F. Buxton, Bart., was born 
 at Castle Hedingham 178G, 
 
 Kirhy Hall, about 1 m. from the 
 ch., was the occasional home of 
 Horace, Lord Vere of Tilbury. His 
 widow, daughter of Sir John Tracy 
 of Tuddington in Gloucestershire, 
 lived here. She had attended her 
 husband in all his dangerous expe- 
 ditions, and survived to a great age. 
 Ddlingham, who published the com- 
 mentaries of Sir Francis Vere in 
 1G57, mentions "Kirby Hall in 
 Essex, where the truly religious and 
 
 honourable the Lady Vere doth still 
 survive, kept alive thus long by 
 special providence, that the present 
 age might more than read and re- 
 member what was true godliness in 
 eighty-eight " (the year of the Ar- 
 mada). The famous collection of 
 portraits now at Eainham ( see Noii- 
 FOLK, Kte. 8) was then at Kirby Hall. 
 
 Leaving Castle Hedingham we 
 reach 
 
 12 m. Yeldham Stat. In Great 
 Yeldham Church is a monument to 
 Viscountess Bateman, of the Spencer 
 (Sunderland) family, who died 1769 ; 
 and a carved oak screen bearing the 
 arms of the De Veres. At the 
 branching of the road to Cambridge 
 stands Yeldham Oak, 27 ft. m girth. 
 
 [2 m. N. of Yeldham is Tilbury, 
 which gave a title to Sir Horace 
 Vere, brother of Sir Francis Vere, 
 both of whom were distinguished in 
 the Low Country wars of the 16th 
 cent. (See ante. Castle Hpding- 
 ham.) Sir Horace was the first and 
 last Baron Tilbury. There are no 
 remains of his manor-house.] 
 
 At Bidgeicell, rt. of the line, the 
 foundations of an extensive Koman 
 villa were discovered in 1794 (it is 
 figured in the ' Archseologia '), and 
 various other Roman remains have 
 been found between Eidgewell and 
 
 16j m. Birdhrooh Stat. We are 
 here on the line of the Eoman road 
 which ran from Colchester to Cam- 
 bridge ; and between Birdbrook and 
 Steeple Bunvpstead (1. of the line) 
 is a Roman camp. In the Ch. of the 
 latter village are various monuments 
 for the Beudyshes, of Bower Hall, 
 close by. 1 m. E. of the village is 
 Moyns Park, a very fine old Tudor 
 mansion, built partly in 1580 by Th. 
 Gent, Baron of Exchequer; it is 
 still in the possession of his de- 
 scendants. The property has been in 
 the family nearly 800 years. It is 
 mentioned by Norden, in his survey 
 of Essex, made in James I.'s reigu, as 
 
72 Boute 10. — London to Clii];>;ping Ongar and Dunmow. Sect. I. 
 
 " a stately house begun by Baron 
 Gent, deceased, not finished." Por- 
 tions of the house are even older. 
 
 [At Hempsted, 4t m. W. of Steeple 
 Bumpstead, is the tomb and bust of 
 Dr. William Harvei/, the discoverer of 
 the circulation of the blood. He died 
 in 1657, and was buried in a vault 
 whicl] his brother Eliab, who bought 
 a manor here, had built. '■ He is 
 lapt in lead," says Aubrey, " and on 
 his breast, in great letters, ' Dv. 
 William Harvey.' I was at his 
 funeral, and helped to carry him 
 into the vault." Dick Turpin, the 
 highwayman, was born here in the 
 house now the liose and Crown. 
 The parisli has been fomous for its 
 enormous oak trees, few of which 
 remain, although this part of Essex 
 is still well wooded,] 
 
 19 m. Haverhill Stat. (Pop. 2434) 
 stands on the very confines of Essex 
 and Sufiblk, partly in both. It is a 
 long and insignificant place, having 
 one ch. (Dec. and Perp.) of little in- 
 terest, and the traces of a second 
 long since swept away. 
 
 [For a notice of Keddington or 
 " Ketton '' Ch., 2^ m. N.E. of Haver- 
 hill, see Suffolk, Ete, 4.] 
 
 At Haverhill the Colne Valley 
 Ely. joins the line between Sudbury 
 and Cambridge. (Suffolk, Ete. 4.) 
 
 ROUTE 10. 
 
 LONDON TO CHIPPING ONGAR. 
 ONGAR TO DUNMOW. 
 
 (To Chipping Ongar this route 
 follows a branch of tlie Great Eastern 
 Elwy. Many trains daily start from 
 both the Fencliurch- street and r>i- 
 shopsgate stations; meeting at the 
 Stratford Junction, wliei-e four linos 
 diverge— (a) to Southend (Ete. 1): 
 (h) to Colchester and Ipswich (Ete. 
 2) ; (c) to Cambridge and Norwicli 
 (Ete. 11) ; and (d) to Chipping Ongar. 
 The line from Fencliurcii-street runs 
 by Stepney to Stratford ; that from 
 Bishopsgate by Mile-end and Old 
 Ford.) 
 
 For (4| m. from Fenchurch St.) 
 Stratford see 'Rte. 1). After cross-* 
 iug the Eiver Lea (see Ete. 11) we 
 reach. 
 
 5J m. Low Leyton Stat. The 
 place takes its name from its posi- 
 tion on tlie 1. bank of the Lea. It 
 is a village of villas. Many Eoman 
 remains have been found here, and 
 it has been conjectured that Leyton 
 represents the Durolitum of the 
 Antonine Itinerary (but this was far 
 more probablv a short distance N. of 
 Eomforch see Ete. 2). The Ch., rebuilt 
 of brick in 1821 (except the tower, 
 which dates from about IGoS), con- 
 tains monuments to Strype the his- 
 torian, who was vicar 68 years, from 
 1674 to 1737; to Charles Goring, 
 second E. of Norwich, who d. 1670; 
 and to William Bowyer, the learned 
 printer, d. 1737. There are also some 
 elaborate monuments for the family 
 of Hickes, who long possessed the 
 manor, including one, with effigy, 
 for Sir Michael Hickes (secretary to 
 
Essex. Boiife 10. — Leytonstone — Snareshrooh — Woodford. 
 
 Lord Biirleigli\ d. 1612. A small 
 brass tablet records the deposit of 
 " Good Lady Mary Kyngestone, dy- 
 rectly under thys stone." 
 
 At,Leyton Sir Thomas Eowe, the 
 Oriental traveller, was b, 1580 (see 
 2J0st, Woodford) ; and here Thomas 
 Lodge, contemporary of Shakespeare, 
 wrote at least two of his pieces. The 
 next stat., 
 
 GJ m. Leytonstone, is also in tlie 
 parish of Leyton ; and the village, 
 like Leyton, is a long street of villas, 
 many of which are large and hand- 
 some. But neither Leyton nor Ley- 
 tonstone affords so pleasant scenery 
 as — 
 
 7^ m. Snaresbrook (stat.). {Inn: 
 The Eagle.) Epping Forest (a por- 
 tion of the ancient Forest of Y\"alt- 
 ham) extends, including w^hat is 
 called the " Lower Forest,"' from the 
 neighbourhood of Stratford to the 
 town of Epping. But of this tract 
 far the greater portion has been in- 
 closed, the inclosures liaving been 
 made gradually. That portion called 
 Hainault Forest has been disaffo- 
 rested (see 2Mst) ; and in the remain- 
 ing uninclosed part the Crown only 
 now possesses forestal rights, i.e. 
 the deer, their herbage, "vert and 
 browse," and the power to enforce a 
 fence month. Much of the country, 
 however, retains its forest char- 
 acter, and especially about Snares- 
 brook. Here is the Merchant Sea- 
 men's Orplian Asiilum ; and at Wan- 
 stead (1 m. rt. — Snaresbrook is the 
 stat. for Wanstead) is the Infant 
 Orphan Aaylnm, a modern Eliza-- 
 bethan building erected 1841-3 by 
 Scott and Moffat, including chapel, 
 infirmary, and accommodation for 
 300 orphans eligible at any age 
 under 7. They are educated as 
 members of the Churcli of England, 
 and may remain in the asylum until 
 the age of 15. The Asylum was 
 founded in 1827, and is most plea- 
 santly situated. (Its London Oifices 
 are at 100, Flfeet-street, where all 
 
 [Essex, &c.'\ 
 
 infoi-mation may bo obtained. No 
 children are admitted whose parents 
 have not filled a respectable position 
 in society.) 
 
 Wanstead House, a very superb 
 structure, built for the first Earl 
 Tylney in 1715 by Cohn Campbell, 
 was pulled down 1822 by the fourth 
 Earl of Mornington, soon after his 
 marriage with the heiress of the 
 Tylneys. The Prince de Condo 
 rented the house for a time about 
 1795. The modern Ch., 1790, with a 
 Greek portico, contains a monument 
 to Sir Josh. Child, d. 1699. The 
 monuments were moved from the 
 old ch. The remains of Epping 
 Forest extend hence N. about 9 m. 
 
 At Lake House, near Wanstead, 
 Thomas Hood resided for two or 
 three years, and wrote here his novel 
 of 'Tylney Hall,' "much of the 
 scenery and description being taken 
 from Wanstead and its neighbour- 
 hood." — Mem. of T. Hood. The 
 house was originally a banquetting 
 hall attached to Wanstead Park, and 
 was named from a large lake which 
 spread between it and the mansion. 
 
 Passing the station at 
 
 8 J m. George Lane, the next is 
 
 91 m. Woodford Stat. Woodford 
 {Inns : George, White Hart, Castle) 
 is a pleasant village, principally 
 built round a green, and abovmding 
 in citizens' villas and boarding 
 schools. There is much forest 
 scenery in its neighbourhood. 
 
 The Ch. was rebuilt in 1816. In 
 the churchyard is a very large yew 
 tree ; and a remarkable column re- 
 cording members of the family of 
 Godfrey — to which belonged the 
 famous Sir Edmund Bury Godfrey. 
 Sir Thomas Rowe or Roe, the 
 Eastern traveller, and ambassador 
 to the Great Mogul, born at Leyton 
 in 1580, became lord of Woodford 
 manor, and was buried here. He 
 brought to this country the Alexan- 
 drian MS. of the Greek Testament. 
 Woodford may boast also of a more 
 
74 
 
 Boute 10. — BucJcliurst Hill — Chigwell. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 recent and more famous " illustra- 
 tion." Sidney Smith (' Peter Plym- 
 ley') was born here. In the neigh- 
 bourhood are Monhliams (H. F. Bar- 
 clay, Esq.), and Hale End (J. Gurney 
 Fry, Esq.\ 
 
 1 m. N. of Woodford are Wood- 
 ford Wells, so called from a mineral 
 spring, now no longer in repute, 
 whence is a good view over the forest 
 and the vale of the Koding. 
 
 lOf m. Buckhurst Hill Stat. A 
 district of new villas. From tliis 
 place the Epping stag hunt, before 
 it ceased recently, used to start on 
 Easter Monday (see Epping, post). 
 Hood, when he wrote his ' Epping 
 Hunt,' described it as an " ebbing 
 as well as Epping custom," and 
 added, " The Easter chase will soon 
 be numbered with the pastimes of 
 past times : its dogs will have had 
 their day, and its deer will be 
 fallow. A few more seasons and the 
 City Common Hunt will become un- 
 common." It is generally asserted 
 that the right of hunting in the 
 forest was granted to the citizens of 
 London by Hen. III. in 1226. But 
 this is uncertain. No such charter 
 is known to exist, and the three 
 earlier charters (Hen. I., Hen. II., 
 Kicli. I.) which do exist, grant the 
 citizens their huntings as their an- 
 cestors had them — to wit, in Chiltrie, 
 in Middlesex, and Surrey — not nam- 
 ing Essex. The Lord Mayor had 
 long ceased to preside. The late 
 Lord Brougham, when staying in 
 the neighbourhood, went on one 
 occasion to witness the hunt, about 
 which he was " very facetious," and 
 asked many questions. " He said to a 
 man, " I suppose you are waiting for 
 the Lord Mayor and Aldermen ? If 
 you will show me them, wlien tliey 
 arrive, I will give you a crown." The 
 man said, "I do not think I should 
 justly know them, but if you will 
 give me half-a-crown I will show you 
 J i( .rd Brougliam alive." This so dis- 
 concerted hia lordship that he went 
 
 home immediately." (Report of the 
 Committee on Royal Forests, 1863.) 
 This is the station nearest to the 
 village of Chigicell (Inn: King's 
 Head) whose scenery has been de- 
 scribed by Dickens in his ' Barnaby 
 Ru(]ge.' Near it is Chigwell Eow, 
 a hamlet scattered for 3 m. along the 
 road, and bordering on Epping and 
 Hainault forests, rich in woodland 
 scenery. 
 
 ;S'^. Marys Ch.. in the village of 
 Chigwell, ajiproached by an avenue 
 of yews, has a Norm. S. door. Here 
 is a monument for Thos. Caleshill, 
 d. 1595, " servant to Ed. VI., Queen 
 Mary, and Queen Elizabeth ; " and 
 in the chancel the remarkable brass 
 of Samuel Harsnett, successively 
 Bishop of Chichester and Norwich, 
 and Archbishop of York. He died in 
 1631, and is represented in a mitre, 
 rich cope, rochet, and chimere, hold- 
 ing a pastoral staff. This is the 
 latest representation of the canonical 
 vestments on an English brass. The 
 inscription runs, " Hie jacet Samuell 
 Harsnett, quondam vicarius hujus^ 
 ecclesife, primo indignus episcopus 
 Cicestriensis, deinde indignior epis- 
 copus Norwicensis, demum iudignis- 
 simus Archiepiscopus Eboracensis." 
 Archbishop Harsnett had been master 
 of the grammar school here, before 
 he became vicar. He resigned the 
 vicarage, but continued to live at 
 Chigwell, where he had bought a 
 house and estate. In this house he 
 died. In 1629 the Archbp. founded 
 two free schools here, one for young 
 children, the other for "teaching 
 the Greek and Latin tongues." It 
 is expressly provided that the master 
 of this latter school should be "no 
 puller of tobacco." The schools ai'e 
 still flourishing, and were re-opened 
 under a new scheme, at Michaelmas, 
 1868. William Penn, the founder 
 of Pennsylvania was educated here. 
 
 Chigwell Row, which stands on 
 high ground, commands views of the 
 Thames and the Kentish Hills. 
 Below it, S., extends Hainault Forest^ 
 
Essex. 
 
 jRoiite 10. — Loughton — High Beech 
 
 75 
 
 a portion of the ancient forest of 
 Waltham, said (bnt very doubtfully) 
 to Lave been so named because it 
 was stocked with deer brought from 
 Hainault. This part of the forest was 
 disafforested in 1851 1 14 & 15 Vict. 
 c. 43), and the act has been carried 
 into eifect by disposing of the tim- 
 ber and underwood, and bringing 
 that portion which was allotted to the 
 Crown into cultivation. But Hai- 
 nault forest is still very picturesque 
 in parts ; abounds in nightingales ; 
 and can still show some fine trees, 
 although none so large or so cele- 
 brated as the Fairlop Oak, which 
 stood not far from Chigwell. This 
 tree measured 45 ft. in girth, and 
 its boughs shadowed an area of 800 
 ft. It was greatly injured, and some 
 of its principal branches destroyed, 
 by fire in 1805 ; and its remains 
 were blown down by high winds in 
 1820. The pulpit and reading desk 
 in St. Pancras Church, London, are 
 made from its wood. The age of the 
 Fairlop oak is uncertain. It had 
 long been very celebrated ; and 
 Queen Anne is said to have visited 
 the forest on purpose to see it. A 
 Mr. Day, who had an estate in the 
 neighbourhood used to visit the 
 tree aunnally on the first Friday in 
 July. His visit led to others; and 
 the so-called "Fairlop Fair" was 
 thus founded. The oak lost a limb 
 a few years before Mr. Day's death, 
 in 1767. His coffin was made from 
 the timber tlius supplied. 
 
 Following tlie valley of the Koding 
 river, which it reached at Buckhurst 
 Hill, the rly. proceeds to 
 
 llf m. Loughton Stat. Loughton 
 (Inns : Crown, Standard, King's 
 Head) is a village on the old Epping 
 road, and a very good place from 
 which to visit that part of Epping 
 Forest which lies W. of it. This 
 part (including Loughton) is no 
 longer under royal jurisdiction, the 
 lords of the manor having purchased 
 the Crown rights. But it contains 
 much fine woodland scenery. 
 
 1. about 2 1 m. is Queen Elizabeth's 
 or Fair Mead, Lodge, an Elizabetlian 
 building originally erected as a hunt- 
 ing lodge, but now used as a farm- 
 house. Near it is a noble oak, about 
 18 ft. in girth, the finest tree in 
 Epping Forest. 
 
 High Beech (li m. from Loughton 
 Stat. (Inn : the King's Oak), is in 
 the parish of Waltham Abbey. (The 
 visitor should, however, be reminded 
 that on Sundays and Mondays 
 throughout the summer all this 
 neighboui'hood — Loughton, Fair 
 Mead, and High Beech — is thronged 
 by holiday-makers from London, 
 whose music, donkeys, and picnics 
 do not greatly add to the charms of 
 the scenery. Such parties have, how- 
 ever, been permitted in the forest 
 from time immemorial ; and the 
 benefit of such excursions to London 
 Eastenders can hardly be overrated. 
 It has been calculated that more 
 than 200,000 persons are occasionally 
 within the precincts of the forests 
 in one day.) At High Beech, 
 the " London clay " reaches its 
 greatest elevation (759 ft.), and from 
 this place some of the finest views of 
 the surrounding country are obtained. 
 From behind tiie Oak Inn the eye 
 ranges over great part of Hertford- 
 shire in front, and S.E. over Kent, 
 from above Gravesend to Shooter's 
 Hill. From Lappitt's Hill, the view 
 extends over Highgate to Haleybury ; 
 and from the Parsonage, across 
 London to the Crystal Palace. A 
 small ch. was built at High Beech 
 in 1836. 
 
 Passing stations at 
 
 13j m. Chigioell Lane (which in 
 spite of its name is much farther from 
 the village of Chigwell than Wood- 
 ford stat.), and 
 
 15j m. Tlieijdon Bois, where the 
 village green is noticeable, the line 
 reaches 
 
 16| m. Epping. (Inn: The Cock). 
 This town, of 2105 Inhab., 380 ft. 
 
 E 2 
 
76 
 
 JRoute 10. — Ej^ping : the Forest — Cop^ Hall. Sect. I. 
 
 above the sea, in a licaltliy and plea- 
 sant situation, consistsof one Innp; and 
 wide street running along the top of 
 a ridge. It still retains its ancient 
 fame for butter and cheese, produced 
 on the pastures of the Koding ; and 
 for sausages. 
 
 The Parish Ch. is 2 m. W. of 
 Epping, in the division of the parish 
 called the Upland. It has a brick 
 tower, and contains some monuments 
 of no great interest. The walks in 
 the forest here are extremely pretty, 
 and the forest roads are no longer as 
 in Pepys' days — when he complained 
 that riding in the main way was 
 like " riding in a kennel." Once he 
 avoided " that bad way by a privy 
 road, which brouglit us to Hoddes- 
 den, and so to Tibbalds ; which was 
 mighty pkasant." 
 
 Epping Forest is a portion of the 
 great Forest of Waltham, whicli an- 
 ciently extended to the very walls of 
 London. Its area has been greatly 
 ciu'tailed, and the present uninclosed 
 portion of Epping Forest does not 
 contain more than 7000 acres. This 
 is commonable for horses and cows. 
 Tlie forest was well stocked with red 
 and fallow deer, but they are now 
 nearly extinct. In the last centy,, it 
 was a great resort for gipsies, and 
 Easter Monday's "Epping Hunt" 
 was well known within the sound of 
 Bow Bells, and much enjoyed by the 
 lieges of Cockney. (See ante. For 
 full particulars relating to tiie inclo- 
 sures, the public rights, and those of 
 the Crown, see the ' Report from the 
 Select Committee on Koyal Forests, 
 (E^sex), 18G3.') 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Epping 
 are Hill Hall (8ir W. B. Smiith, 
 Bart.) and Copt Hall (Hon. Mrs. 
 Ashley). Hill Hall was built in the 
 reign of Elizabeth by Sir Thomas 
 Smijth, who was secretary of state to 
 that queen and Edwta-dVI. The style 
 is Italian, from designs obtained, 
 it is said, by the founder, during his 
 travels, from John of Padua. It 
 
 forms a square, 3 sides of which were 
 finished about 1577 ; the E. side has 
 been rebuilt (1716). Here is Sir 
 Thomas's portrait, ascribed io Titian, 
 another of Hen. VIII. by Holbein, 
 and some other paintings. 
 
 The Ch, of Theydon Mount (in 
 which parish Hill Hall is situated), 
 with a brick tower, was rebuilt IGOO, 
 by Sir William Smijth, nephew and 
 heir of Sir Thomas, and contains in 
 its chancel monuments of Sir Thomas 
 Smijth, founder of the family, and 
 of many successors. The life of Sir 
 Thomas was written by Strype, the 
 ecclesiastical " Annalist." 
 
 Cop2)ed or Cojjt Hall (A.S. co2) = 
 head, chief) one of the best houses 
 in Essex, is large, plain, of brick, 
 and built by Jas. Wyatt. A former 
 house, built for Sir T. Heneage in 
 the reign of Elizabeth, had a 
 gallery 168 ft. bv 22 ft., and 
 22 ft. high. "On this gallery," 
 says Fuller (' Worthies,' Essex), " a 
 story doth depend. In November, 
 1639, here happened an hirecano, 
 or wild wind, which, entering in* 
 at the great east window, blew that 
 down, and carried some part there- 
 of, with the picture of the Lord 
 Coventry (singled from many more 
 which hung on both sides un- 
 touched), all the length of the gal- 
 lery, out of the west window, which 
 it threw down to the ground. I 
 mention this the rather because 
 pious Dr. Jackson, head of Corpus 
 Christi College in Oxford, observed 
 the like wdnd about the same time 
 as ominous, and presaging our civil 
 dissensions." The witty Earl of 
 Dorset lived at Copt Hall ; and here 
 Shadwell wrote part of his ' Squire of 
 Alsatia,' the plav which suggested to 
 Scott ' The Fortunes of Nigel.' The 
 Conyers family bought the place in 
 174*J from Lord North and Grey, 
 and built the present house, S. of the 
 old one, and within tlie parish of 
 Epping. The old house was in the 
 parish of Waltham, the abbots of 
 wliich place had a manor house here. 
 
Esse:^. 
 
 Moide 10. — CMj)2)ing Ongar. 
 
 77 
 
 Near the S.E. corner of the park, 
 about 100 3'ards fiorn the road, is 
 an ancient intrenchment, now over- 
 grown with trees, called Ambreys 
 Banks. The rampart encloses nearly 
 12 acres. The word " Ambreys " 
 (Emrys, Brit., an enclosure?; is 
 found elsewhere, and is apparently 
 to be recognized in the Wiltshire 
 Amesbury. 
 
 The rly. from Epping makes a cir- 
 cuit towards the N.E ; and passing 
 the stations at 
 
 19J m. North Weald, and 
 21 m. Blahe Hill, where there is 
 little to notice, reaches 
 
 22 f m. CMiDping Ongar, stat. 
 Chipping Ongar {Inn: Lion) is an 
 ancient " chepe ' or market town 
 on the Eoding, composed chiefly 
 of one long street. {Ongar is 
 the A.-S. " Angra," a separated por- 
 tion of land). The town stands 
 within an ancient entrenchment ; 
 and E. of it is the moat and keep 
 mound of a castle built by Kichard 
 de Lucy, Chief Justice of England 
 (1162) — tlie " Lux Luciorum " of his 
 epitaph in Lesnes Priory, Kent, 
 founded by him, and where he be- 
 came himself a Canon Regular 
 before his death in 1179. Ongar 
 was given to de Lucy by William, 
 E. of Mortaigne, son of King 
 Stephen ; and the lordship was then 
 erected into an honour. In 1176, 
 (after the rebellion of the barons ami 
 the King's sons) Henry II, seized into 
 his own hand nearly all the English 
 castles ; and " not sparing even 
 Richard de Lucy ; his most intimate 
 friend and the Justice of England, 
 he took from him his castle of 
 * Angra.' " B. Abbas, i., 224. Tlie 
 Castle, afterwards restored, passed 
 from the Lucys to the house of 
 Rivers de Ripariis, and thence to 
 the Lords Stafford. De Lucy's 
 castle was taken down. temp. Eliz., 
 by its then owner, William Morice, 
 who raised in its stead a brick build- 
 ing of 3 stories. This was destroyed 
 
 in its turn in 1744. The mound is 
 now planted, and from the top tbere 
 is a wide and pleasing view. It 
 seems probable that the mound (like 
 those at Castle Acre and elsewhere in 
 Norfolk, and like that at EayleigU 
 in this county (see Rte. 5) is more 
 ancient than the Norm, period. The 
 entrenchments whicli surround the 
 town may have been connected with 
 it. The ch. walls contain Roman 
 tiles. Witl}in the ch. are monu- 
 ments to Sir H. Palavicini, d. 1637, 
 and to Jane, daughter of Sir O. 
 Cromwell of Hinchinbrook, d. 1637. 
 (See Bahraliam, Cambkidgeshire, 
 Rte. 1.) 
 
 [Ongar gives name to the hundred, 
 which was formerly noted for a 
 remarkable " watching and warding 
 of the WardstaflV — the forms of 
 which were no doubt of great anti- 
 quity. The staff represented the 
 King's person; and its "watch and 
 ward " seems to have been a yearly 
 muster of men who were appointed 
 to guard the King's peace within 
 the hundred. The bailiff" of the 
 hundred was yearly to " make the 
 wardstaffe of some willow bough 
 growing in Abbess Rodiug wood, 
 the Sunday before Hock Monday." 
 It was to be 3 quarters of a yard 
 long, and 8 in. round. The bailiff" 
 was to convey it to the Manor Place 
 of Rookwood Hall in the parish of 
 Abbess Roding, "where the lord 
 of the manor shall reverently the 
 same receive into his house, and 
 shall rowle it up in a faire fine linen 
 cloth or towel, and so lay it upon 
 some pillow or cushion on a table or 
 cubberd stancHng in the chief or 
 highest placie in the hall of the said 
 manor place, there to remain until 
 the said bailiff" shall have relieved 
 and I'c freshed himself." The staff 
 was then to be conveyed " by sunne 
 shyninge " to Wardhatch Lane, 
 where all tenants in the parish 
 holding their lands by service royal 
 v/ere to attend, with their "fVill 
 
78 
 
 Boute 10. — Oreensteacl. 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 ordinarie number of able men well 
 liainished." A rope Avith a bell 
 hung on it was to be stretched 
 across the lane, and tlie staff was to 
 be reverently laid on the ground, on 
 a cushion. The bailiff then called 
 over the names of the landowners, 
 who presented themselves at the 
 rope ; and thej^ with their men, 
 were ordered to " Iceep the watch 
 and ward" through the night, in 
 due silence, " &oe that the king be 
 harmless and the country scapeless," 
 until, at sunrise, tlie Lord of Kook- 
 wood " repaired unto the stalf," and 
 made a notch on it with a knife, in 
 proof of the watch completed. The 
 bailiff then carried the staff into the 
 next parish, delivering it to the 
 lord of the chief manor with some 
 very rude rhymes. So it passed 
 through the hundred ; until its office 
 being served for the year, it was to 
 be carried through the country to a 
 place called " Atwood-by-the-Sea," 
 where it was to be thrown into the 
 sea. This custom — one of those 
 symbolical observances to be found 
 in the earliest polity of all the 
 Teutonic and Scandinavian races — 
 was continued at least until the 
 reign of Elizabeth. The whole of 
 the ceremony, with the rhymes 
 spoken by the bailiff, will be found 
 in Moranfs ' Essex,' i. p. 126.] 
 
 [1 m. W. of Ongar is Greenstead, 
 whose timber Ch. of St. Andrew has 
 attracted much attention and has 
 been supposed to be of Saxon date. 
 The nave, alone the original struc- 
 ture, is formed of the trunks of oak 
 ov chesnut trees, "not, as usually 
 described, 'half trees,' since they 
 have had a portion of the centre or 
 heart cut out, probably to furnish 
 beams for the construction of the 
 roof and sills. The outside, or slabs 
 thus left, were placed on the sill, but 
 by what land of tenon they are there 
 retained docs not appenr; while the 
 upper ends, being roughly adzed off 
 to a thin edge, are let into a groove. 
 
 which, with the piece of timber in 
 which it is cut. runs the whole 
 length of the building itself. The 
 door-posts are of squared timber, 
 and are secured in the grooves by 
 small wooden pins, still firm and 
 strong— a truly wonderful example 
 of the durability of British oak. . . . 
 The outsides of all the trees are fur- 
 rowed to the depth of about an inch 
 into long stringy ridges, by the decay 
 of the softer parts of the timber ; but 
 these ridges seem equally hard as 
 the heart of the wood itself." — A. 
 SucTding. Some of the woodwork, 
 however, having become worm-eaten, 
 was removed in 1848, but the greater 
 part of the original timber remains. 
 The nave is 29 ft. 9 in. long by 14 ft. 
 broad. Its "wooden walls" are 
 5 ft. G in. high. There are 16 logs 
 on the S. and 2 door-posts ; on the 
 N. 21 logs, and 2 gaps plastered up. 
 At the W. end is a modern tower of 
 boards, a way into which has been 
 cut through the logs of the western 
 wall. The woodwork of the roof is 
 said to be coeval with the walls. It* 
 was no doubt originally thatched, a 
 roofing which may stUl be seen on 
 many village churches in Norfolk 
 and Sufiolk. The ch. is now lighted 
 by windows in the roof, of recent 
 date ; and it seems doubt fid if, in the 
 primitive state of the building, any 
 light was admitted except from the 
 E. end. The original E. end has 
 been destroyed, and the present 
 chancel, which is late Perp., temp. 
 Hen. VII. is of red brick. At the 
 S.E. angle is a pillar piscina. Brick 
 buttresses have also been built for 
 strengthening the S. wall . of the . 
 nave, which leans slightly outwards. 
 Greenstead Ch. is said to have 
 been originally erected about the 
 year 1013. Three years before, the 
 body of St. Edmund had been re- 
 moved from Bury to London, on 
 account of a sudden descent of the 
 Danes upon the coast of Suffolk. 
 On its restoration in 1013 to its 
 original resting-place at Bury, the 
 
Essex. Hoide 10. — Stondon Massey — Alhyns — Fyfield. 79 
 
 body of the sainted king was shel- 
 tered at Stapleford, and according to 
 a "register of St. Edmundsbury," 
 cited by Dugdale, " near Anngre 
 (Ongar), where a wooden chapel re- 
 mains as a roemorial imto this day." 
 A very ancient road from London 
 into Suftblk passed through tlie 
 parish of Greenstead, and there is 
 btill a tradition in the village that 
 the bones of a Saxon monarch once 
 rested in the ch. The tradition and 
 the record mnst be allowed their due 
 weight. No indication of any certain 
 date, however, is aftbrded by the 
 building itself; and although small 
 Avooden churches were numerous 
 during the Saxon period, notices 
 occur of then- erection long after the 
 Conquest, especially in such great 
 forest districts as Essex long con- 
 tinued to be ; a character which 
 seems to be indicated in the name of 
 the parish — Greenstead — the " stead- 
 ing" in the midst of the greenwood. 
 The fact that the ch. is dedicated to 
 St. Andrew, and not to the martyr of 
 East Anglia, should also be noticed. 
 2 m. S.E. of Ongar is the little 
 Norm. Ch. of Stondon Massey, the N. 
 side of which remains unaltered, and 
 shows 3 veiy narrow loopholed win- 
 dows— 2 in the nave and 1 in the 
 chancel. These are placed high up 
 in the wall. A frame of oak timber, 
 which occupies a considerable por- 
 tion of the western end, and sustains 
 the ijresent tower and bells, is en- 
 titled to observation on account of 
 its singular construction.] 
 
 [On the old London turnpike, 
 running from Ongar through Chig- 
 well, is (2^ m. from Ongar, 1.) Dud- 
 hrook House, Navestock, a residence 
 of Frances, Countess Waldegrave. 
 The manor was granted in 1553 by 
 Q. Mary, to Sir Edward Waldegrave, 
 her faithful adherent. A descend- 
 ant of Su" Edward was created Earl 
 of Waldegrave in 1729. He built 
 the old hall at Navestock, which 
 was pulled down in 1811. '' It is a 
 
 dull place," wrote Walpole to Mon- 
 tague (1759), "though it does not 
 want prospect backwards. The gar- 
 den is small, consisting of two French 
 allees of old limes, that arc comfort- 
 able, two groves that are not so, and 
 a green canal." The ch., which has 
 Norm, portions, contains a mural 
 monument for the two first earls, 
 with an inscription written by the 
 widow of the second, who afterwards 
 became Duchess of Gloucester, — the 
 " royal niece " of Horace Walpole, 
 Here is also a somewhat grotesque 
 monument by Bacon, for Lieutenant 
 Edward Waldegrave, 1812. On 
 Navestock Common there is an an- 
 cient entrenchment. 
 
 2 m. further on the road, 1., is 
 
 Alhyns (Sir T. N. Abdy, Bart.). 
 The house is said to be from a 
 design by Inigo Jones (?). It stands 
 in a fine park on the Roding, and 
 was the property of IMagdalen Wood, 
 wife of Sir Thos. Edmondes (temp. 
 J as. I.) whose state papers have 
 thrown so much light on the history 
 of his own times. The Abdys of 
 Kelvedon have been in possession 
 of Albyns since 1650, 
 
 Lambourne, a parish 2 m. beyond 
 Albyn, was the first living of Thomas 
 Winnifie, Bishop of Lincoln (1642). 
 On his deprivation during the civil 
 war, he retired here, died in 1654 
 and is buried in the ch.j. 
 
 At Ongar the rly. ends. Proceed- 
 ing by road towards Dunmow (14 m.) 
 the first place to be noted is 
 
 3 m. Fyfield. 
 
 The Ch., in spite of much patching 
 and alteration, is interesting. The 
 tower, intersecting the nave and 
 chancel, is Norm. The chancel, 
 early Dec., -with 3 very good sedilia. 
 At the angles of the hood mouldings 
 are grotesque heads, one of which 
 has a high-pointed cap. In the ex- 
 ternal wall of the chancel, under the 
 E. window, is a remarkable arch with 
 quatrefoils in the heading. Theso 
 
80 Boiite 10. — ^ViUinghale Spain and Don — Roxicell. Sect. I. 
 
 seem to have been pierced, but can 
 only have lighted the back of the 
 altar, as tlie flooring within renders 
 evident. The font is perhaps late 
 Norm. 
 
 m m. N.E. of Fyfield are the 2 
 little churches of Willinrihale Spain 
 and WilUnghale Don, standing in the 
 same churchyard, and serving for 
 the 2 adjoining parishes. WilUnghale 
 Spain is so named from the family 
 of D'Espagne, which was settled in 
 this part of Essex from the Conquest 
 imtil the reign of Edw. II. The Ch., 
 dedicated to All Saints, is principally 
 Norm., though it has been supposed 
 that the shell of the building may 
 date from before the Conquest. There 
 is much Eoman brick in the walls. 
 3 Norm, windows remain, and an 
 emiched N. portal, the iron work on 
 the doors of which has been thought 
 Norman or even earlier. At any rate 
 it should be noticed. Against the S. 
 wall of the chancel is a curious 
 memorial for the children of Edward 
 Beauly (1613-1632) It is a sort of 
 book, with a wooden cover, carved 
 with the arms of Beauly, and having 
 a sheet of parchment with arras and 
 shoi-t records within. Willingliale 
 Dou is named from the family of 
 D'Eu or D'Ou, which held a manor 
 here under the Earls of Essex. The 
 Ch., apparently Dec, contains three 
 Ijrasses — a knight of the Torrel 
 family, circ. 1400 ; a lady of the 
 same family, of later date ; and 
 Mistress Dorothy Brewster, d. 1613. 
 There is also a monument with re- 
 cumljent effigv, for Robert Wiseman 
 of Torrell's Hall, d. 1641— "Vh 
 generossisimus . . . pius, candidus, 
 quadratus, litis expers." 
 
 Boxu-ell, 4 m. E. has a good late 
 Dec. Ch. with good window tracery.] 
 
 The road now enters the district 
 of the Eodings, or Endings, a cluster 
 of 8 agricultural parishes, apparently 
 deriving their name from the stream 
 near which they stand. Tlie stream 
 
 itself may be named from some 
 meadow on its banks once marked 
 by a cross ; — rod-ing = rood meadow. 
 So the ' Eoodee ' at Chester. ( Kemble, 
 however, ' Sax. in Eng.,' finds here 
 a settlement of the Saxon Eodingas.) 
 They are Abbots (or Al)bess), Beau- 
 champ, Margarets, White, Aythorp, 
 High, Berners, and Leaden Boding. 
 Through the last the road passes. 
 This part of Essex, wooded and rich 
 in pasture, is very remote from 
 ru-ban or scholastic influence. In 
 the language of the inhabitants of 
 the Eodings, " The world, or at least 
 the isle of Britain, is divided into 
 three parts, looked on most likely as 
 three concentric circles. The hal- 
 lowed centre, the bull's eye, the 
 yas.i 6jj.(pa\6s, the inner Ecbatana, 
 is " the Endings;" rormd about them, 
 in the middle circle, lie the '* Hun- 
 dreds"— the rest of Essex; further 
 still, on tlie outer circle, lie "the 
 Shires," — the rest of Britain. As 
 for the rest of Europe and of the 
 world, they are doubtless looked on 
 as so utterly barbarous, as to deserve 
 no place at all in the geography of 
 the favoured Eudingns."' — E. A.F. (?) 
 Whether the " Endings " are named 
 from the river or from the sons of 
 *' Eode," the settlement here is un- 
 questionably of great antiquity. The 
 Eoding churches, small, and of little 
 interest, are all of Earlj^ character ; 
 (there is a good Norm, enriched 
 door at Margaret's Eoding) — and 
 are dedicated to local saints — as St. 
 Edmund and St. Botolph. Boding 
 Abbess was so named from the Abbess 
 of Barking, who held the chief 
 manor. At Boding Berners, held 
 by the Berners family for many 
 generations, Juliana the Prioress of 
 Sop well, whose taste for field sports 
 was so pronounced, and who was the 
 authoress of the famous ' Boke of St. 
 Albans,' is said to have been born. 
 
 [3 m. 1. of Aythorp Eoding (which 
 the road leaves a little to the 1.), is 
 Hatfield Broadoalc, where a fine old 
 
Essex. 
 
 PiGidc 1 0.- Plc^hj Casile. 
 
 81 
 
 oak is carefully fenced round, and 
 considered to represent, at one or two 
 descents, the original patriarch of 
 the forest from which the place took 
 its distinguishing name. In the Ch. 
 is a Avooden effigy of Eobert, third 
 Earl of Oxford, d. 1221. A small 
 Benedictine priory was founded here 
 by Alberic, his ancestor (son of 
 Alberic the founder of the race) in 
 1185. A modern hoiise now occu- 
 pies its site. The northern part of 
 the parish is still richly wooded, and 
 is kno-sATi as " Hatfield Forest."] 
 
 [About 6 m. E. of Aythorp Eoding, 
 Init reached by better roads fiom 
 Dunmow, whence it is distant 7 m., is 
 
 Fleshy, best known, like many 
 other places of historical importance, 
 from the mention made of it by 
 Shakespeare. The widowed Duchess 
 of Gloucester, when she bids John 
 of Gaunt commend her to Edmund of 
 York, continues — 
 
 " Bid him— 0! what? 
 "With all good speed, at Pleshy, visit me. 
 Alack ! and what shall good old York there 
 
 see 
 But empty lodgings, and imfumish'd walls, 
 Unpeopled offices, mitrodden stones ? " 
 
 Hich. II., Act 1., Sc. 2. 
 
 This Duchess was Eleanor Bohim, 
 heiress of Pleshy. Her husband 
 was Thomas of Woodstock, 6tii son 
 of Ed. III., and uncle of Eichard II. 
 This Duke of Gloucester, himself a 
 man of ungoverned ambition, vio- 
 lently opposed the arbitrary mea- 
 sures of Eichard II., and was at the 
 head of a powerful party. In 1397 
 (two years before his own fall) Eichard 
 seized the Duke of Gloucester by a 
 skilful piece of treachery. He came 
 t Pleshy from his own palace at 
 Havering (Ete. 2) and after supping 
 with the Duke, begged him to ride 
 with him to London, where an impor- 
 tant petition was to be presented the 
 following day. At Stratford, the king 
 rode on; and the Earl Marshal, who 
 was lying in wait there, seized the 
 duke, hurried him to the Thames, 
 
 and so to Calais, where he was mur- 
 dered in prison. His body was 
 brought to Pleshy and buried in the 
 ch. of his college (see 'post) ; but was 
 afterwards removed to Westminster 
 Abbey. His duchess seems to have 
 been occasionally at Pleshy until her 
 death at Barking Abbey in ]399. 
 (See Ete. 1;. 
 
 In retaliation for this crime, 
 Sir John Holland, Duke of Exeter, 
 half-brother of Eichard H., was 
 seized at Prittlewell and carried to 
 Pleshy in Jan. 1400 ^ after Eichard's 
 deposition) by the followers of the 
 nutrdered Duke of Gloucester, and 
 beheaded. 
 
 The Castle of Pleshy is said to 
 have been built by Geotfry de IMau- 
 deville, made Earl of Essex by King 
 Stephen. (His chief castle was at 
 Saffron Walden. See Ete. 11.) The 
 barony passed through heiresses to 
 the Fitz Piers, and (1227) to the 
 great house of Bohun. The Bohun 
 Earls of Hereford thus became also 
 Earls of Essex. They were already 
 (in their own right j hereditary Con- 
 stables of England. Pleshy passed 
 into the hands of the Crown soon 
 after the death of the Duchess 
 Eleanor. 
 
 The castle was founded within 
 the lines of a Eoman entrenchment, 
 near which urns and other anti- 
 quities have been found. The 
 Mount on which tlie Norm, keep 
 was built, may possibly have formed 
 l^art of the Eoman works. Nothing 
 remains of the castle except a brick 
 bridge, of one lofty arch, which com- 
 municated with tlie keep. This is 
 covered with ivy, and is very pictu- 
 resque as seen from the moat below. 
 
 A College was founded here by 
 Thomas, Duke of Gloucester, for 9 
 chaplains, and a noble Ch. with a 
 central tower, was attached to it. In 
 this ch. were buried many of the 
 Stulfords, who became connected 
 with the Bohuns by the marriage of 
 Anne, daughter of the Duchess 
 Eleanor, to Thomas and Edmund — 
 
 E 3 
 
82 
 
 Houte 11. — London to Cambridge. 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 successively Eiirls of b^taftbrd. The 
 chancel was pulled down by Sir John 
 Gate, to whom the college was 
 granted by Hen. VIII. TJie rest of 
 the cli. became ruinous and fell. 
 The present building dates from 1708, 
 but has been lately restored. 
 
 " Plesliy " is generally regarded as 
 a corruption of " Plaisir "— but the 
 name in Domesday — Plesiuchou— is 
 proof of a difierent signification. 
 The " hou " seems to indicate the 
 existence of the mound long before 
 the building of Earl Geofiry's castle. 
 
 At 14 m. Dunmow is reached. 
 (See Rte. 3.) 
 
 EOUTE 11. 
 
 LONDON TO CAMBRIDGE, BY WALT- 
 HAM AND BISHOP'S STORTFORD. 
 
 (Saffron Walden ; Aldley 
 End). 
 
 (Great Eastern Ely.). 
 
 From tlie Shoreditcli terminus to 
 the branching point at 
 
 3f m. Stratford Stat., the line is 
 common with that to Ipswich. (Rte. 
 2.) 
 
 [From Stratford, where our line 
 turns abruptly N., as far as Brox- 
 
 bourne, this rly. ascends the valley of 
 the Lea, Avhich rises near Dunstable, 
 iu Bedfordshire, and falls into the 
 Thames at Blackwiill. This stream 
 is rich in associations ; 
 
 " The sedgy tresses of the gulfy Lea " 
 
 are sung by Pope; and Spenser tolls 
 of 
 
 " rhc wanton Lea, that oft doth lose its way.' ' 
 
 Upon its level banks are laid the 
 opening scenes of Walton's ' Com- 
 plete Angler ; ' and in more ancient 
 days ''^A.D. 896) tlie Danish " army " 
 under Hsesten, "towed their ships 
 up the Thames and then up the 
 Lea," where they " w^rought a work," 
 20 m. above London. This work 
 was attacked by the Londoners and 
 " other folk," who were defeated, and 
 4 king's thanes were slain. In har- 
 vest time King Alfred encamped near 
 London, so that the corn might be 
 safely reaped; and afterwards he 
 caused the river Lea to be obstructed 
 by two "works," wrought on either 
 bank, so that the '• heathens " were 
 unable to bring down their ships. 
 They accordingly abandoned their 
 stronghold, and the Londoners car- 
 ried olf such of the Danish ships as 
 were " stalworth."— (' Sax. Chron.' ad 
 ami.) Wherefore, says Drayton — 
 
 "Thus the old Lea brags of the Danish 
 blood." 
 
 The victories of Alfred drove back 
 the Danes to the territory called the 
 Danelagh, of which the 1. bank of 
 the Lea, from its soui'ce, formed one 
 of the boundaries. The Lea, like 
 the Thames, has had its swans, as 
 appears by a ' Tale of two Swannes,' 
 written by W. Vallans, temp. Eliz., 
 and jn-inted by Hearne, in his edition 
 of Leland's Itinerary. The poem 
 describes the voyage of two swans 
 down the Lea, with the places by 
 which they pass.] 
 
 The line passes on rt. the engine 
 depot, on 1. Temple Mills, and crosses 
 
Essex. Boiife 11. — Waltliamstow — Tottenham'^Eu field. 
 
 83 
 
 for 3 m. the marshes bordering on 
 the Lea. 
 
 5f m. Lea Bridge Stat., lies about 
 i ra. E. of the iron bridge, over 
 which the Epping road crosses the 
 Lea. Near it is tiie Horse and Groom 
 Inn, trophied Avith jaw-bones and 
 likenesses of '' extraordinary big 
 lish," a favourite resort of Cockney 
 anglers. 
 
 [2 m. rt. is Walthamstoio, a village 
 composed in great part of the country 
 
 seats of opulent citizens (4873 Inhab.)- 
 The whole parish may be called a 
 to\\Ti among trees. The Ch. has been 
 much modernised, and is crowded 
 with modem monuments. Waltham- 
 stow was the birthplace of Geo. Gas- 
 coigne the poet. Here is a large 
 proprietary Grammar ScJwol prejiara- 
 tory to King's College, London ; an 
 Institution for educating daughters 
 of missionaries ; and other chari- 
 ties.] 
 
 On the 1. are the rising grounds of 
 Clapton and Stamford HilJ, and here 
 are copper-mills on the Lea, which is 
 again crossed to reach 
 
 7f m. Tottenham Stat. Here the 
 greater part of the cattle and sheep 
 brought out of Essex, Suflblk, and 
 Norfolk, along this line, quit the 
 rly,, and after a short rest in ■' lairs " 
 or pens set apart for the pui'pose, are 
 driven to London. 
 
 From near this point the Seven 
 Sisters Road runs nearly in a straight 
 line to Holloway ; and by Camden 
 Town to the Eegent's Park ; a short 
 cut for travellers to the West-end of 
 London, avoiding the crowded streets 
 of the city. 
 
 8^ m. Park Stat. 
 
 9| m. Angel Boad Stat. 
 
 [Here a line branches 1. to Enfield 
 by Edmonton. 
 
 At 10^ m. is Edmonton Stat. 
 
 121 ni. Enfield Stat. Enfield 
 
 {Inn: the King's Head, small and 
 poor; the Foresters' Old Oak) is 
 a large village. The Church (St. 
 Andrew) is a compoed-o\ci- and em- 
 battled building, whose exterior (late 
 Perp.) covers a Dec. chancel and 
 nave. It has a good Dec. E. window, 
 with a W. tower, and over the S. 
 porch a muniment room for the parish 
 archives, in which are some pieces of 
 old armoui- and buft' coats. Between 
 the N. aisle and chancel is the hand- 
 some Perp. canopied tomb of Jocosa 
 Tiptoft (d. 1446), mother of the 
 learned Earl of Worcester, bearing 
 her efligy in brass finely engraven, 
 let into a slab of Purbeck marble. 
 The lady wears a mantle embroi- 
 dered with the arms of Powys impal- 
 ing Holland. Her head-dress is of 
 the mitred form, and is surmounted 
 with a coronet. She was the daughter 
 of Edward Charlton, Lord Powys, 
 and married Sii- John Tiptoft, who 
 was in high reputation with Heniy 
 y. and VI., and was summoned to 
 Parliament as Baron Tiptoft and 
 Po\y}-s. He died before his wife in 
 1442. Here is also a marble monu- 
 ment to Nicholas Eaynton, lord 
 mayor of London, and his wife, with 
 effigies — 164G. In the ch. is a tablet 
 to John Abernethy, the famous sur- 
 geon, who died at Enfield, 1831, in 
 Abernethy - House in Baker - street. 
 He is bmied here. The font is new. 
 The remains of the old Manor 
 House, much altered and incorpo- 
 rated with an inhabited mansion, 
 stand opposite to the ch., but screened 
 from the market-place by low houses. 
 The house is now a school, and has 
 undergone many changes, yet one 
 room on the ground floor still retains 
 its oak panelling; its rich orna- 
 mental ceiling with pendants; and 
 its freestone chimney-piece, bearing 
 the Tudor arms, supported by Cad- 
 wallader's di-agon and badges (the 
 horse and portcullis), with the motto 
 " Sola salus servi redeo : sunt ciBtera 
 fraudes." Edward VI. was brought 
 to Enfield from Hertford on the 
 
84 Mtc. ll.~Enjield CJiace —Ponders End—Waltliam. Sect. 1. 
 
 dcatli of his father, and kejit liis 
 court here, being styled by sonic 
 "who saw him about that time " a 
 proper and towardly ympe." The 
 enclosures which formed the ])fdace 
 gardens remain, and within them, 
 near the house, stands the wreck of 
 a noble cedar of Lebanon, planted 
 about 16G0. Its trinik measures 17 
 ft. in "irth at a foot from the ground. 
 In the middle of the market-place 
 is a small Gothic cross erected by 
 subscription in 1826. 
 
 Enfield Chace — 
 " A forest for her pride, though titled but a 
 chace, 
 Her purlieus aud her parks, her circuit full 
 
 as large 
 As some, perhaps, whose state requires a 
 greater charge " — 
 
 has been divided and enclosed since 
 1777. Within the last 20 years the 
 trees have been mostly grubbed up 
 and the axe and plough have done 
 their work, though clumps of trees 
 here and there still bear a scanty 
 witness to its former state. The 
 Chace is first mentioned in the reign 
 of Edward II. Hither Elizabe'th 
 rejjaired from Hatfield to drive the 
 deer, and here Sir Walter Scott has 
 laid one of the closing scenes of tlie 
 * Fortunes of Nigel.' Monkey-mead 
 Plain, in Enfield Chace, is the sup- 
 posed site of the battle of Barnet. 
 
 At Enfield, in 1G66, died Edmund 
 Calamy ; and at East Lodge died, in 
 1838, Admiral Sir Pulteney Malcolm. 
 At Enfeld Wash was the cottage 
 of Mother Wells, in which (1753, the 
 notorious impostor Elizabeth Can- 
 ning was confined. Mrs. Wells' 
 house was on the E. side of the road, 
 at the corner of a lane leading to the 
 marsh. 
 
 l.j m. E. of Enfield stood South 
 Baileij Lodge, at one time the resi- 
 dence of the great ]<]arl of Chatham, 
 who laid out the grounds. At East 
 Bailey Lodge lived Lord Chancellor 
 Loughborough when young and 
 anxious for distinction. 
 
 At Eortij Hall, built, it is said, by 
 
 Inigo Jones for Sir Nicholas Eayu- 
 ton, lived and died Kichard Gough, 
 author of the 'Sepulchral Monu- 
 ments,' and editor of Camden's 
 'Britannia.' It is now the seat of 
 James Meyer, Esq. 
 
 1 m. N. of Enfield is the manor- 
 house, ^Vliite Webbs, a solitary house, 
 which received Guy Fawkes and 
 Catesby while engaged in hatching 
 the Gunpowder Plot.] 
 
 Eeturning to the main line, wc 
 reach 
 
 llf m. from Loudon, Fonder s End 
 Siai. In the village, J m. 1., is a 
 small manufactory for crape. The 
 wooded heights of Epping Forest are 
 seen rt. On the rt. is seen the ivy- 
 covered church-tower of Chingford. 
 
 13^ m. Ordnance Factory Stat., 
 adjoins the factories established here 
 by Government in 1811. 
 
 14f m. Waltham Stat., J m. from 
 Waltham Cross, IJ m. from Waltham 
 Ahheij. 
 
 Waltham Cross (Inn : Four Swans) 
 is in Hertfordshire, and is named 
 from the finest remaining of "Queen 
 Eleanor's Crosses " — memorials of the 
 places at which the corpse of the 
 queen of Edward I. rested each 
 night on its journey from Lincoln to 
 London for interment. The Waltham 
 Cross (which stands nearly in front 
 of the inn, and but a short distance 
 from the station) has Ijctsn completely 
 " restored ; " but " has suftered very 
 materially from the Avell-mcant in- 
 discretion of its admirers: however 
 faithfully the old work may have 
 been copied in the new erection, it 
 does at best but show how well we 
 can imitate the original, and affords 
 very equivocal evidence of the state 
 of the arts in the reign of Edward 
 I." — Fergusson. 
 
 [About 1 m. W. of Waltham 
 Cross, in Hertfordshire, is ThcohahU 
 Park, tlie site of the palace built by 
 Lord Burleigh, and exchanged by 
 his son, the Earl of Salisbury, with 
 Jpuips I., for Hatfield. Of this mag- 
 
Essex. 
 
 Boufc 11. — Waliliam Abbey. 
 
 nificent house, one of the most stately 
 in England, not a fragment remains. 
 It consisted of two principal quad- 
 rangles ; and was rich with long 
 galleries, leaded walks, towers, tur- 
 rets, fountains, and " pleasant con- 
 ceits." Tliere was one walk " so 
 delightful and pleasant, facing the 
 middle of the house, and the several 
 towers, turretts, windowes, chim- 
 neyes, walkes, and balconies, that 
 the like walke for length, pleasant- 
 ness and delight is rare to be scene 
 ill England." Hentzner, in his 
 'Travels in England' (1.398), de- 
 scribes the gardens as of unusual 
 beauty. Burleigh constantly enter- 
 tained Elizabeth here ; each visit 
 costing theLord Treasurer from2000Z. 
 to 30U0Z. " The Queen hath been 
 seen here," says the writer of Lord 
 Burleigh's life (in Peck's Des. Cur.), 
 "in as great royalty, and served as 
 bountifully and magnificently, as at 
 anie other tyme or place, ail at his 
 Lordship's charge." James I. stayed 
 here four days on his way from 
 Scotland to London ; and the Lords 
 of the Council here first paid him their 
 homage. After it became his own 
 property Theobalds was one of his 
 most favom-ite palaces ; and he died 
 here, March 27, 1625. Ciiarles I. 
 was occasionally here. The petition 
 of both houses of parliament was pre- 
 sented to him at Theobalds (Feb. 
 1G42) and he went hence to i^ut Jiim- 
 self at tlie head oi his army. Although 
 the house was in excellent rej)air 
 it was pulled down by order of 
 the parliamentary commissioners in 
 1650, and the money from the sale 
 of the materials, 8295L lis., was 
 divided among the army. 
 
 The site of the palace is marked 
 by the houses which form Avhat is 
 known as Theohalds Square, built in 
 1765. 
 
 In 1633 Henry Cary, Lord Falk- 
 land, lost his life by an accident in 
 the park of Theobalds. The New 
 River runs through it ; and James I. 
 was so much interested with this 
 
 great work of Sir Hugh Myddleton's, 
 that he assisted the engineer with 
 his hell? as King, and with tlie State 
 purse. In this new river, in Tlieo- 
 balds park, James was afterwards 
 nearly drowned. He was riding one 
 winter's evening with his son Prince 
 Charles, when his horse stumbled, 
 fell, and fllung the King into the 
 water. This was partly frozen, and 
 James disappeared under thin ice, 
 only his boots remaining visible. Sir 
 Richard Young rushed into the water 
 and dragged out his Majesty, who 
 was little the worse for his ad- 
 venture.] 
 
 Waltham Ahhey, in Essex (IJ m. 
 from the station ; Inns : Cock ; New 
 Inn ; King's Arms), " the town (ham 
 = home) in the weald or wood," is a 
 jjlace of great historical interest ; 
 and the portion of its conventual Ch. 
 which still remains will amply re- 
 pay a visit. The first ch. here was 
 built in the days of Canute, by Tofig 
 the Proud, a great Danish Thegn, 
 for the reception of a miraculous 
 crucifix which had been found on 
 his lordship of Lutegarsbmy, in 
 Somersetshire, " on the top of the 
 peaked hill from which the i3lace 
 in later times derived its name of 
 Montacute." Before this, there had 
 been only a hunting seat in the 
 forest. Tofig attached two priests to 
 his cli.; and (jij persons who had 
 been cured by the relic, established 
 themselves here, and devoted them- 
 selves to its honour. Thus Tofig 
 was the founder of both town and 
 minster. (It was at the marriage 
 feast of this Tolig, witli the daughter 
 of Osgod Clapa (1042), that Hartha- 
 cnut died '• as he stood at his drink.") 
 Tofig's estate at Waltham was after- 
 wards granted by the Confessor to 
 his brother-in-law, Harold, who " re- 
 built the small church of Tofig on a 
 larger and more splendid scale, no 
 doubt calling to his aid all the re- 
 sources Avhich were supplied by the 
 great contemporary development of 
 
86 
 
 Boute 11. — Waltham Ahhey, 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 architecture in Normandy." — Free- 
 maw's 'Norm. Conquest,' ii. 441. He 
 enriched the chiu'ch with many pre- 
 cious gifts and relics, increased the 
 number of clergy from two to twelve, 
 with a Dean at their head, besides 
 several inferior officers. The clergy 
 were secular canons. As chancellor, 
 or lectiu'er, Harold appointed Ade- 
 lard of Liittich, who had already 
 been employed under the Emperor 
 Henry III., in bringing several of 
 the churches of his dominions into 
 better discipline. The miraculous 
 crucifix wan still the great treasure 
 of the ch., which was consecrated in 
 1060, in the presence of the Con- 
 fessor and his queen, Eadgyth. The 
 royal charter confirming all Harold's 
 gifts and arrangements was signed 
 in 10G2. Mr. Freeman ('Norm. 
 Conq.,' ii. ch. 10) finds in the nature 
 of tljis foundation — a ch. of secular 
 canons, and not a monastery — a 
 strong witness to Harold's character, 
 and a pioof that he was a " deliberate 
 and enlightened patron of the secular 
 clergy." He contrasts Waltham with 
 Edward's Benedictine Abbey at 
 "Westminster. "To make such a 
 choice in the monastic reign of 
 Edward, when the Idug on his 
 throne was well nigh himself a 
 monk, was worthy of Harold's lofty 
 and independent spirit; it was an- 
 other proof of his steady and clear- 
 sighted patriotism." However this 
 may be, Harold seems to have always 
 regarded Waltham with special aflec- 
 tion. After the battle of Stamford 
 Bridge, and in the short interval be- 
 fore he set out from London to 
 encounter William at Senlac, he 
 visited Waltham, ofiered relics, 
 prayed, and made his final vows be- 
 fore the altar ; and, as he departed, 
 lay for some time flat on his face be- 
 fore the Holy Crucifix. It was after- 
 wards asserted that the head of the 
 image bowed itself toward the king 
 as he lay prostrate : " Demisitvultum 
 quasi tristis, lignum <|uidam pra- 
 scium futui'ormn." It is probable 
 
 that the cry of " Holy Cross ! " raised 
 by the English on the field of Senlac, 
 and no doubt also at Stamford Bridge, 
 had reference to this miraculous 
 crucifix ; and Waltham traditions 
 asserted that it was in consequence 
 of its mysterious warning that two of 
 the Canons, Osgod and CEtheiric the 
 Childmaster, followed the march of 
 the English toward Hastings, and 
 stood waiting afar ofl", but so as to 
 see the issue of the great battle. But 
 William would grant neither to them 
 nor to Gytlui, Harold's mother, the 
 body of the English king. Contem- 
 porary writers assert that it was 
 buried, by the Conqueror's orders, 
 under a cairn on the rocks of Hast- 
 ings. It was afterwards alleged, and 
 most probably w^ith truth, that the 
 body was translated, by William's 
 permission, from the cairn to Harold's 
 own minster at Waltham ; and at 
 any rate, a tomb was shown here 
 until the dissolution, bearing the 
 simple inscription, "Hie jacet Ha- 
 roldus infelix." Mr. Freeman (' Norm. 
 Conq.' iii. ch. 15) accepts this story. 
 
 In 1307 the body of Edward I., on 
 its way from Brugh-on-the-Sands to 
 Westminster, rested for a short time 
 in the church at Waltham. " For a 
 while the two heroes lay side by side 
 — the last and the first of English 
 kings, between whom none deserved 
 the English name, or could claim 
 honour or gratitude from the English 
 
 nation In the whole course 
 
 of English history we hardly come 
 across a scene which speaks more 
 deeply to the heart, than when the 
 first founder of our later greatness 
 was laid by the side of the last 
 kingly champion of our earliest free- 
 dom." — Freeman, ut sup. 
 
 The fame and memory of Harold, 
 which suflered greatly from late 
 chroniclers and alien writers, was 
 carefully cherished at Waltham. 
 Two remarkable tracts exist, one, 
 'De Inventione sanctse Crucis,' a 
 history of the discovery of the niira- 
 { culous crucifix, written by an anony- 
 
Essex* 
 
 Moute 11. — Waltliam Abbey. 
 
 87 
 
 mous canon of the house, after 1177 
 (when he lost his prebend at the 
 change of foundation) ; the other 
 a very legendary ' Vita Haroldi,' 
 written at Waltham after 1205. The 
 first has been edited, with a very 
 important introduction, by Professor 
 Stubbs (Oxford, ISGlj. The other 
 will be found in MicheVs ' Chro- 
 niques Anglo-Normaudes.' 
 
 Harold's foundation did not remain 
 longer in existence than 1177. 
 Henry II. had vowed that in honour 
 of Becket he would found an Abbey 
 of Kegular Canons, He performed 
 his vow cheaply, by turning the 
 seculars out of Waltham and put- 
 ting in Eegulars. Guido, Dean of 
 Waltham, surrendered the house 
 into the hands of Henry; and 
 monastic canons were introduced — 
 G from Cirencester, 6 from Oseney, 
 and 4 from St. Osyth's. Many 
 bishops met the king at Waltham, 
 and assisted in the arrangement. 
 The dean and secular canons were 
 otherwise provided for. The regulars 
 were at first under a Prior. In 1184 
 Henry ajipointed the first Abbot, 
 AValter of Ghent, a canon of Oseney ; 
 and henceforth Waltham became 
 an Abbey. — Ben. Abhas, i. 316. 
 Eichard I. gave to the foundation 
 the manor of Waltham, and " the 
 great wood." It was from the be- 
 ginning freed from all episcopal 
 jurisdiction. The Abbot was mitred. 
 The house enjoyed many special 
 privileges and immunities; and at 
 the dissolution its annual value was 
 1079?. 12s. Id. (Speed) ; or 9001. 4s. 
 3d. (JJugdale.) 
 
 The site, and nearly all the land 
 in the j^arish of Waltham, were 
 granted to Sir Antony Denny, one 
 of the executors of Hen. YHI.'s will. 
 His descendants possessed this pro- 
 perty for some time ; and in the 
 latter half of the 17th cent, it passed 
 by sale to Sir Samuel Jones, of 
 Northamptonshire. Thence it came 
 to the Wakes, who took the surname 
 of Jones. 
 
 Whether the existing pam/i Church 
 which consists of the nave of the 
 abbey ch. (the choir, transepts, and 
 central tower of the original build- 
 ing having been destroyed), is the 
 actual building completed by Harold 
 a short tune before the Conquest,— 
 or whether it is, as would at first 
 sight appear probable, of later date, 
 — is a much disputed question, which 
 the archaeologist will find fully dis- 
 cussed in the 'Gentleman's Maga- 
 zine' for 1859-60. The ch. is, at 
 any rate, a "Norman" building in 
 architectural character; but this, it 
 is contended, it may have been, 
 although built a short time before 
 the battle of Hastings. The nave 
 consists of seven bays, the arches 
 of which have zigzag and spiral 
 lines like those of Durham. The 
 triforium is open to the aisles, and 
 consists of a single bold arch, as 
 at Southwell or the Abbaye aux 
 Hommes at Caen. The clerestory 
 consists of a triplet of arches, follow- 
 ing the usual Norm, arrangement, 
 that in the centre being the highest. 
 The aisles are of the full height of 
 the two lower stages ; and in them it 
 is seen that "the back of the tri- 
 forium arch rises from a sort of enor- 
 mous stilt placed upon the joier, 
 while the pier-arch itself is merely 
 recessed as a secondary order in a sort 
 of bridge across it. It rather recalls 
 the arrangement in Oxford Cathe- 
 dral, and in some parts of Romsey 
 Abbey." — E. A. Freeman. Attached 
 to the W. side of the S. transept 
 is the Lady Chapel, of the Dec. 
 period, and containing some excellent 
 examples of that style. This chapel, 
 which has been sedulously disfigured, 
 and now serves as a school, stands on 
 a crypt. 
 
 In the ch. is a mural monument 
 of Elizabethan date, with the efii- 
 gies of Sir Edward Denny and wife. 
 The Regent Duke of Bedford directs 
 in his will, that in case he died in 
 England, he should be buried at 
 
s§ 
 
 Boute 11. — Waltham Ahhey. 
 
 Sect. i. 
 
 Waltham. He died at Rouen, and is 
 tlicrc buried. 
 
 After long neglect and friglitful 
 disligurement, the Abbey Church at 
 Waltham has been carefully restored 
 under the direction and from the 
 plans of W. Barges, Esq., and was 
 re-opened in May 18G0. Some good 
 stained windows have been inserted : 
 and an entirely new roof lias been 
 designed in imitation of that in 
 Peterborough Cathedral — tlie only 
 example of contemporary date. The 
 •signs of the Zodiac occupy the mid- 
 dle compartments ; and on either side 
 the labours of the several months 
 are represented. Tlie subjects have 
 all been taken from nature instead of 
 from manuscripts, and all were exe- 
 cuted by Mr. Poynter with great 
 skOl and effect. The present E. 
 end of the church is entirely new — 
 with the exception of the main arcli, 
 which was the W. arch of the central 
 tower. Within this enclosing arcli 
 are 3 broad lancets, and above, a rose 
 window, formed by a central circle, 
 with 7 smaller circles attached. 
 These windows are tilled with re- 
 maikable stained glass by Powell, 
 and the general effect is solemn and 
 good. In the stringcourse below the 
 lancets, and in their spandrils, Mr. 
 Purges has introduced figures from 
 " ^sop's Fables " — for which autho- 
 rity may no doubt be found in Norm, 
 churches, both here and on the Con- 
 tinent. There is certainly, however, 
 neither authority nor good reason for 
 placing such subjects in the joosition 
 they occupy here — immediately 
 above the altar. The S. or Lady 
 Chapel still awaits a fitting restora- 
 tion. 
 
 The only remains of the abbc}^ 
 domestic buildings are a low bridge 
 of 8 arches over the Lea, a fine 
 pointed gateway by the Lea, pierced 
 with 2 arches, leading into what 
 was the court of the convent, and 
 near it a dark vaulted passage. Many 
 underground passages exist, locally 
 said to lead to a " subterranean 
 
 building containing images and 
 sculpture.' They are of course 
 drains, and have been well examined. 
 The abbey mills have survived the 
 wreck, and are still used to grind 
 corn. Fuller, author of the ' Wor- 
 thies,' was curate of Waltham, and 
 wrote its history. 
 The town stands on the Lea — 
 
 " Where Waltbam woos her still, and smiles 
 with wonted cheer;" 
 
 and here that river flows across the 
 meadows in the divided streams at- 
 tributed to the operations of Alfred 
 against the Danish fleet. The wil- 
 lows are grown to furnish charcoal 
 for the Government Guniwivder Mills, 
 built on a branch of the Lea called 
 Powder IMill lliver, and extending 
 towards Epping. The factory covers 
 an extent of about 160 acres. It was 
 purchased towards the end of the 
 last centy. from a Mr. John Walton 
 (possibly a descendant of Isaac), and 
 is the only factory now maintained 
 by Government. Within the last 
 few years great additions have been 
 made to the establislunent ; and by 
 improved machinery and the intro- 
 duction of steam-engines in aid of 
 water-power, 24,000 barrels of powder 
 can now be manufactured annually, 
 instead of 8000 or 9000. About 140 
 men are employed in the various 
 processes of refining saltpetre and 
 sulphur, making charcoal, and incor- 
 l)orating, pressing, granulating, dry- 
 ing, dusting, and barrelling up the 
 gunpowder ; which is first taken to the 
 Grand Magazine at the head of the 
 works, and from thence by the rivers 
 Lea and Thames to Purfleet, for 
 proof. The greatest possible jn-ecau- 
 tions are taken to avoid accidents, 
 and none of any serious nature have 
 occurred since 1843. 
 
 About Waltham are large market- 
 gardens; watercresses are grown 
 here for the London market. 
 
 Waltham Forest, over which the 
 ab))C)^ po.^scssed unusual rights, ex- 
 
Essex. Houtc 11. — Broxbourne — Itye Souse — Hoydon. 
 
 80 
 
 tended over all this neighbourhood, 
 and included the great forest ot" 
 Epping. Nearly all of it has been 
 enclosed ; although part of the 7000 
 acres still remaining unenclosed in 
 Epping Forest may perhaps be with- 
 in the boundaries of what was once 
 the forest of Waltham. 
 
 16 m. Cheshunt Stat. 
 
 The various branches of the Lea 
 and Stort are crossed on numerous 
 bridges. 
 
 19 m. Broxbourne Stat, (in Herts.). 
 The village is very pretty and has 
 a handsome Ch. (St. Augustine's), 
 chiefly Perp., raised on a bank, above 
 a mill (1.), close to the rly. In the 
 N. chapel is the altar-tomb of Sir 
 William Say, Knt., 1529, and his 
 two wives. Here, also, are curious 
 enamelled brasses for Sir John Say 
 arid his wife, 1473; a priest, circ. 
 1470, with chalice; and others. 
 The wooden roof is remarkable. 
 
 This place is a great resort for 
 Cockney brethren of the angle ; and 
 AVant's Inn is a favourite tishing 
 quarter. Here occurs one of the 
 junctions between the Lea and the 
 Stort. 
 
 Broxboui'ne Bury, an old mansion, 
 is the seat of H. J. Sraith-Bosanquet, 
 Esq. It has beautiful gardens. 
 
 1. 1 m. is Hoddesdon. 
 
 20| m. Bye House Stat. [Here 
 turns off a branch rly. running 
 
 (1) by St. Margaret's to Bunting- 
 ford (see Handbook for Herts), and 
 
 (2) from St. Margaret's by Ware 
 to Hertford. These are Gt. Eastern 
 lines. From Hertford a line is con- 
 tinued to Hatfield (with a branch to 
 St. Albans), and from Hatfield to 
 Luton and Dunstable (see Handbook 
 for Herts). This line belongs to the 
 Great Northern Railway]. Just be- 
 yond this stat. the Lea is crossed 
 for the last time. Observe (1.) ou its 
 bank, near a grouj) of poplars not 
 far off, a red building : this is the 
 Bye House, the scene of the famous 
 
 plot (1683), for setting aside the 
 succession of the Duke of York, 
 afterwards James II. (see Handbook 
 for Herts). 
 
 Leaving the valley of the Lea, the 
 line is continued up that of 
 
 " Stort, a nymph of hers, whose foith she oft 
 had proved. 
 
 And whom, of all her train, she most en- 
 tirely loved." 
 
 The Stort runs almost side by side 
 with tlie rly. until a little above 
 Stortford. 1. on a height, see the 
 ch. of Stansted Abbots. 
 
 22 m. Boydon Stat, on the Stort. 
 In the Ch. are brasses for Thomas 
 Colte, 1471, and wife — both wearing 
 collars — and for his son, John Colte, 
 and wife, 1521. Rt., a little to the 
 S. of the stat., near the confluence of 
 the Lea and the Stort, are the re- 
 mains of Nether Hall, a castellated 
 and moated brick quadi'angular man- 
 sion, built by Sir Henry Colt, but of 
 which the only remain is a dilapi- 
 dated gatehouse with flanking turrets, 
 bearing patterns in glazed brick. 
 The chimney-shafts are good. The 
 crest of a colts head, and the crests 
 and badges of other families, are 
 moulded in the decorations. The 
 larger part of Roydon parish belongs 
 to St. Thomas's Hospital. The hall 
 now belongs to J. A. Houblon, Esq., 
 1. runs the artificial canal called 
 Stort Navigation. 1. Briggin's Park, 
 on the hill. 
 
 24i m. Burnt Mill Stat. 1. not flu- 
 off, is Gilston Park, or New Place, 
 once the seat of the late R. Plumer 
 Ward, author of ' Tremaine.' Here 
 is the Plumer Oak, second only to 
 that of Panshanger. 
 
 [1| m. N. is Hunsdon House, built 
 by Sir John Oldhall, converted by 
 Henry VIII. into a royal nursery, 
 Avhere were educated Mary, Eliza- 
 beth, and Edward VI. (several of 
 whose letters are dated hence), and 
 with them the fair Geraldine, im- 
 
90 
 
 Houte 11 .—Harloii>^''Doion Hall. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 mortalized by the poetry and love of 
 the Earl of Surrey. It is now the 
 seat of — Wylie, Esq., who bought 
 it from the Cal verts in 1861, but 
 most of the old liouse is pulled down, 
 and the moat is filled up. The new 
 buildings are in the Tudor style. 
 Here Mary resided when queen. 
 Elizabeth granted the estate to Henry 
 Carey Lord Hunsdon, her cousin, 
 and visited him here in one of her 
 grand progresses. It is asserted by 
 Vertue, that Mark Gerard's curious 
 picture of Elizabeth carried on men's 
 shoulders, now at Sherborne Castle 
 in Dorsetshire (see Handhooh for that 
 county), contains a distant view of 
 old Hunsdon House.] 
 
 At 25 m. rt., near Latton Mill, is 
 Marh Hall, the seat of R. W. Ark- 
 wright, Esq. Near Latton ch. are 
 scanty ruins of an Augustiniau priory, 
 founded before the year 1270. 
 
 26^ m. Harlow Stat. 
 
 Harloio (f m. rt. of the Stat.) 
 {Inn: The George), is an old market- 
 town of 2377 Inhab. The old parish 
 Ch., dedicated to St. Hugh of Lin- 
 coln, was rebuilt in 1709. Some 
 brasses from the older fabric are 
 preserved in it : the principal is 
 that of an unknown personage in 
 arinour, circ. 1430. St. John's Church 
 was built 1839-42, as a monument to 
 a former vicar, Rev. Ch. Millar. It 
 is visible from the rly. The font 
 bears an inscription which may be 
 read from either end. The old manor- 
 house of Harlow Bury, 1 m. from the 
 cik, was a seat of the Abbots of St. 
 Edmundsbury. A barn near it was 
 the chapel, and contains some an- 
 cient portions. Upon a common at 
 the top of Potter Street, about 2 m. 
 from the town, is held, in September, 
 the well-known Harlow Bush fair, a 
 famous mart for horses and cattle. 
 On the Common the Essex Archery 
 Club meetings are held. 
 
 In the neighl)ourh()od of Harlow 
 is Barrington Hall (G. A. Lowndes, 
 Esq.). 
 
 [2^ m. N.E. of Harlow is Down 
 Hall (H. J. Ibbotson-Selwin, Esq.), 
 a large modern house in a pretty 
 park, watered by the Pincey brook. 
 It is cliiefly remarkable because 
 upon the site of the place to which 
 the poet and diplomatist Matthew 
 Prior 
 
 "From the loud camp retired, and noisy 
 court, 
 For honourable ease and rural sport. 
 The remnant of his days he safely pass'd, 
 Nor found they lagged too slow, nor flew 
 
 too fiist; 
 He made bis wish with his estate comply, 
 Joyful to live, yet not afraid to die." 
 
 Henry and Emma. 
 
 4000Z. advanced to him by his 
 generous friend Lord Harley, son to 
 the Earl of Oxford, and another 
 4000Z. raised among his friends, the 
 subscriptions to his poems, enabled 
 him to purchase the estate (1714) ot 
 which Lord Harley had the rever- 
 sion, and where he resided after 
 Prior's death. Describing his first 
 visit, the poet says he went 
 
 "Fair Essex to see, and a place they call • 
 
 Down. 
 There are gardens so stately, and arbours so 
 
 thick ; 
 A portal of stone and a fabric of brick. 
 
 'Tis a house for a squire, 
 
 A justice of peace, or a knight of the shire." 
 
 Down Hall was sold to the Selwyn 
 family, by whom the old liouse was 
 pulled down in the latter part of the 
 last century. A rudely framed arm- 
 chair, the favourite seat of Prior, and 
 which belonged, it is said, to an 
 abbot of Sacombe, is preserved in the 
 hall. Moor Hall, near Harlow, is the 
 fine seat of J. Perry Watlington, Esq.] 
 
 [Rt. 6 m. S.E. of Harlow Stat, is 
 High Laver, where, in the church- 
 yard, under the S. wall of tlie small 
 and plain chm'ch surmounted by a 
 stunted spire, the mortal jiart of 
 John Locke rests beneath a plain, 
 sim})le *table-tomb, repaired lately at 
 tlie expense of Christ Church, Oxford. 
 Above this is a black marble tablet, 
 
Essex. Boute 11. — Sawhndgeworth — Bishop's Stortford. 9l 
 
 with a Latin epitaph by himself. 
 Locke died at Otes, in this parish, 
 the residence of his friends Sir Francis 
 and Lady Masham, with whom he 
 had resided 10 years, chiefly em- 
 ploying himself in the study of the 
 Scriptures, and in composing his 
 ' Commentary on St. Paul.' Lady 
 Masham, for whom he entertained a 
 sincere friendship, was the daughter 
 of the Philosopher Cudworth ; she 
 tended him with assiduous care 
 during his last illness (an asthma), 
 and he died in her arms. The 
 Mashams are all extinct, and their 
 mansion of Otes, a moated Tudor 
 edifice, was swept away about 1804 
 (except a small fragment, now an 
 outhouse), and has been succeeded 
 by another. 
 
 In the clmreliyard, near the E. end 
 of the church, are several tombs of 
 the Mashams, among them that of 
 Abigail Hill (d. 1734), celebrated as 
 the "Mrs. Masham," the bedcham- 
 ber-woman and favourite of Queen 
 Anne, whose influence led to the for- 
 mation of the Harley and St. John 
 ministry.] 
 
 A little beyond Harlow Stat., 
 where the line nearly touches the 
 Stort, on 1., is Pisldobury Park, in 
 Herts (A. Caldecott, Esq.), a modern 
 brick mansion, by Wyatt, on the site 
 of a fair Renaissance house, built for 
 Sir Walter Mildmay, and erroneously 
 attributed to Inigo Jones. In the 
 grounds is a celebrated Bosery. 
 
 282- m. Sawhridgeivorth Stat, (pro- 
 nounced Sapsworth). This is a 
 prosperous town of 2394 Inhab., 
 much occupied with the trade of 
 malting in Herts, with a picturesque 
 Church (^St. MichaeVs) on a height, 
 having a low embattled tower sur- 
 mounted by a short spire. The nave 
 and chancel are Dec, with a screen 
 in open-work, some very good win- 
 dows, and a little stained glass. The 
 monuments, including 4 or 5 fine 
 brasses, are curious, and commemo- 
 
 rate the families of Jocelvn (1525) 
 and Chaunccy. Lord Hewitt (1689) 
 has an effigy in armour, as has Walter 
 Mildmay (1606); and there are 
 brasses to John Leventhorp and his 
 wife, emaciated figures in winding- 
 sheets (1484), with the arms of Eng- 
 land, denoting his service under 
 Henry IV. and V. Eivers's Nursery 
 Garden should be visited. Here are 
 12 acres of all the varieties of roses 
 alone. 
 
 rt. Great Hyde Hall, \ m. from 
 the Stat., is a seat of the Barl of 
 Eoden. 
 
 rt. on the wooded height is Wall- 
 bury, a perfect Roman camp of 30 
 acres area — about 1 m. in cii-cum- 
 ference. The shape is more nearly 
 hexagonal than square. A viaduct 
 carries the rly. over the Stort, into 
 Herts. Rt. is Hallingbury. 
 
 32^ m. Bishop's Stoktford Stat, 
 (in Herts). (Inns: George, Che- 
 quers). A branch rly. runs hence 
 from the country by Dunmow and 
 Braintree to Witliam on tlie G. E. 
 line between London and Colchester 
 (see for it, Rte. 3). 1. ^ m. from the 
 stat. lies tlie town on the Stort. 
 It was granted by William the Con- 
 queror to the bishops of London, 
 hence its name. The Stort is navi- 
 gable to this place, and thus aids 
 the malting trade, the staple business 
 of the town. The Ch., a Perp. 
 structure, has a figure of its patron, 
 St. Michael, over the N. door. In 
 tlie chancel are some stalls, and 
 various monuments to the Dennys 
 and others. Here also is an old 
 library. 
 
 Pepys records resting here with 
 his wife at the ' Rayne-deere '— 
 " where Mistress Aynsworth, wlio 
 lived lieretofore in Cambridge, and 
 whom I knew better tlian they think 
 for, do live." This friend of Pepys 
 was banished from Cambridge for 
 evil courses. 
 
 On quitting the stat., just beyond 
 
92 Bte. 11. — Stanstead Mount Fitchet — WicJcen Bonant. Sect. I. 
 
 the second bridge over the rly., see 
 1. the Mound, the only trace of tlie 
 Bishops' Castle of Waytemore, de- 
 stroyed by King John. 
 
 [3 m. N.W. is Little Hadham, 
 whose Ch. contains monuments to 
 the Darcys and Capclls ; and in the 
 vault, in an iron box, is the head of 
 Arthiu" Lord Capell, the defender of 
 Colchester, beheaded by Cromwell. 
 Capell destined his heart to bo buried 
 at the feet of his royal master.] 
 
 There is a pleasant walk from 
 Bishop's Stortford to Hallinghury 
 Place (J. A. Houblon, Esq.), a stately 
 mansion in a well-wooded park, 2 m. 
 S.E. ; and in the Ch. are some tombs 
 of the Morleys and Monteagles. 
 Hatfield Forest, in the same direc- 
 tion, o m. E., aftbrds some charming 
 sylvan views. Hatfield " Broad Oak" 
 still exists ; the forest is mostly en- 
 closed. 
 
 The first deep cutting since leav- 
 ing London is traversed to reach 
 
 351 m. Stanstead Mount Fitchet 
 Stat,, otherwise '' Stone-sted," so 
 called from the paved Roman way 
 upon which it stands, and the Ger- 
 nons or Mount Fitchets, who built 
 a castle here, of which the mound 
 and moat remain, and are seen on 
 the 1. close to the rly. From the 
 Mount Fitchets it passed by maniage 
 to the De Veres Earls of Oxford. 
 rt. the Ch., restored 1829, stands 
 near Stanstead Park, and contains 
 a brass to Robert de Bokkyng, vicar, 
 1361, and a marble monument to Sir 
 Th. Middleton, Kt., 1G31. There is 
 an elaborate Norm, doorway, and a 
 Norm. font. The chancel is E.E. 
 There is a cross-legged effigy of 
 Roger de Lancaster ; and a tomb of 
 coloured alabaster with the recum- 
 bent cfiigy of Esther Salusburyc, 
 IGOl. 
 
 At Tliremhall, 2 m. S.E. from the 
 Ch. of Stanstead, on the border of 
 Hatfield Forest, are the very scnntv 
 
 remains of a Benedictine Priory, 
 fonnded by Richard de Montfichet, 
 Forester of Essex — died 1203. Little 
 more than a wall is to be seen. 
 
 (The W. front of JBirchanger Ch. 
 2 m. S. of Stanstead, is Norm.) 
 
 37J m. Elsenham Stat. The Ch. 
 has Norm, portions (chancel arch 
 and enriched i)ortal). 
 
 [The Ch. of Henham on the Hill 
 2 ni. N. has a good Dec. nave arcade. 
 On one of the piers is a curious 
 sculpture of the Virgin and Child, 
 supported by angels .j 
 
 (rt. G m. is Thaxted. See Rte. 
 3). 
 
 Near Quendon, W. of the rl^^, is 
 one of the heads of the Granta 
 river. 
 
 41| m. Newport Stat., near which, 
 rt., is Debden (Sir Fr. Vincent, Bart.), 
 a modern house by Holland. 
 
 [1| m. 1. of Newport is the Ch. of 
 Wichen Bonant (ded. to St. Mar- 
 garet) pleasingly situated in one of 
 the winding valleys leading up to 
 the backljone of high ground which 
 parts the tributaries of the Lea and 
 the Cam. The ch. was restored and 
 partly rebuilt in 1859 at the cost of 
 John Sperling, Esq. The chancel, 
 E.E., is original. The font is Norm. 
 The rest, nave, porch and tower, 
 Dec. in character, is entirely new. 
 The hall is now a farmhouse, dating 
 early in the IGth cent., and has 
 picturesque chimneySv The old 
 manor-house of Bonhunt has a small 
 deserted chai)el attached to it, of very 
 early Norm. work. Nothing is known 
 of the history of the manor from 
 Domesday, when it belonged to one 
 Saisseline, till 1341. Rickling Ch., 
 2 m. S.. was once rich in brasses 
 of the Langleys — the best in the 
 county. All have disappeared. They 
 were Lords of Rickling Hall, — an 
 ancient manor-house of brick, and 
 moated. 
 
 Arhcsden, 2 m. N.W., has a Norm. 
 
Essex. 
 
 Boute 11. — Clavering — Audley End. 
 
 93 
 
 font, and the Cli., which has been 
 rebuilt by Mr. Prichett, is very plea- 
 santly situated. It contains the 
 sumptuous tomb of Sir Hugh Mid- 
 dleton (not the engineer of the 
 New Eiver), died 1631, and that of 
 Eichard Cutts, 1592. 
 
 3 m. S.E. of Arkesden, near the 
 border of the county, and on the 
 river Stort, here but a streamlet, is 
 Clavering, — which, like Havering at 
 Bower, has been made the scene of 
 the Confessor's bounty to St. John 
 (see Ete. 2). Clavering was the 
 head of a barony held by Hugh 
 de Essex, hereditary standard bearer 
 and constable to Hen. II. After his 
 forfeiture it was granted to Eobert 
 Fitz Eoger, whose descendants long 
 possessed it, and named themselves 
 'de Clavering.' It afterwards passed 
 to the Neuilles and their representa- 
 tives. There was a castle here, on 
 the N. side of the ch. — of which only 
 the trench remains. There is much 
 old stained glass in the ch. 3 
 
 Beyond Newport Stat, the line 
 passes. 
 
 rt. Shortgrove Hall, W. C. Smith, 
 Esq. 
 
 1. see Wendon church -spire. Here 
 the rly. crosses a high embankment. 
 
 43| m. Audley End Stat., so named 
 from the picturesque and venerable 
 mansion, the seat of Lord Bray brook, 
 which though very near the line, is 
 not visible from it. 
 
 [A branch r\j. runs from Audley 
 End Stat, by Saffron Walden to 
 Bartlow Stat, on the line between 
 Haverhill and Cambridge. (See 
 Cambridgeshire, Ete. 9.) The dis- 
 tance is traversed in little less thun 
 half an hour. The house at Audley 
 End and tlie church and town of 
 Saffron Walden are well worth see- 
 ing. The visitor may walk from the 
 station to Audley End, and thence 
 through the park to Sali'ron Walden 
 — the entire distance is about 2.' m. 
 — and may return to Audley End 
 Stat, by the rly. If he require a 
 
 carriage he should proceed at once 
 to Saffron Walden. There is an inn 
 near the Audley End Stat., but no 
 conveyance is to be procured.] 
 
 [L. of the Audley End Stat, is 
 seen the Ch. of Wenden. The tower 
 may possibly date before the Con- 
 quest, with the exception of the 
 parapet and one or two insertions. 
 There is a very good Perp. wooden 
 pulpit. The foundations of an ex- 
 tensive Eoman dwelling-house have 
 been found here; and an arch at 
 the W. end of the ch. is turned with 
 tiles from a hypocaust. The Ch. of 
 Chrishall, 4 m. W., near the soiu'ce 
 of one of the feeders of the Cam, is 
 Dec. throughout. In the S. aisle 
 is a good canopied tomb, with effigy. 
 In the nave is the fine brass of Sir 
 John de la Pole and his wife (Cob- 
 ham), circ. 1370, under a triple 
 canopy. The hands of husband and 
 wife are joined. There is a good 
 Perp. Ch. at Little Chrishall. 
 
 At Heydon, 2 m. N.W. of Chris- 
 hall, and in the extreme angle of the 
 county, a chamber cut in the chalk 
 was discovered in 1818. It con- 
 tained a sort of altar, and abundance 
 of Eoman fictilia. Its purpose has 
 not been ascertained.] 
 
 A pleasant walk of about 1 m. 
 through a gently undulating, well- 
 wooded country brings us within 
 sight of Audley End, one of the finest 
 examples of Jacobai'an architecture 
 remaining in England. The house 
 is seen beyond the river Cam, which 
 was widened under the direction of 
 " Capability Brown," and forms a 
 picturesque feature in the scene. On 
 the 1., and at some distance from the 
 house, is a group of gabled buildings 
 which serve as the stables. Crossing 
 the bridge, a lodge will be seen 1., 
 at which the visitor must apply. 
 The house is shown on Tuesdays and 
 Tljursdays, throughout the year, 
 from 10 to 4. (A very minute and 
 accurate 'History of Audley End, 
 
94 
 
 Boute 11. — Andley End : History. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 and Saffron Walden,' by the late Lord 
 Braybrooke, was published in 1836. 
 The following account is greatly in- 
 debted to it.) 
 
 The entrance front, with its double 
 porches, greatly enriched, is very 
 pictui'esque. Andley End (the name 
 has been sometimes regarded as a 
 corruption of Audley Inn ; bat the 
 word " end," applied either to a 
 single house or to a group of dwell- 
 ings, is found in many parts of Essex, 
 as at Ponder's End, and is frequent 
 in this neighbourhood) was so called 
 from Lord Chancellor Audley, to 
 whom the site, on which stood the 
 dissolved abbey of Walden, was 
 granted by Henry VIII. in 1538. A 
 priory liad been founded at Walden 
 for Benedictine monks by Geoffry 
 de Mandeville, first Earl of Essex of 
 that house, in 1136. This was raised 
 into an abbey in 1190; and at the 
 dissolution its annual value was 
 3121. 18s. IfZ. Site, manor, and the 
 greater part of the abbey lands were 
 granted to Lord Audley, who had 
 been the speaker of the parliament 
 which decreed the dissolution of the 
 lesser religious houses, and who, as 
 Lord Chancellor, greatly assisted 
 Henry in the suppression of the 
 greater. He had a keen appetite for 
 monastic spoil ; and, when still 
 si^eaker, had received the Priory of 
 Christ Church, Aldgate, " the first 
 cut in the feast of abbey lands," says 
 Fuller, " and, I assure you, a dainty 
 morsel." Audley was a native of 
 Essex, having been born at Earls 
 Colne in 1516. In his native county 
 he obtained Walden Abbey ; St. 
 Botolph's Priory, Colchester ; the 
 Priory of the Crouched Friars, at 
 Colchester ; and Tiltey Abbey, near 
 Thaxted,— all of them dainty morsels. 
 (See post for a further notice of him.) 
 It is not certain that ho ever lived at 
 Walden Abbey. His daughter IMar- 
 garet married, at 14, Lord Henry Dud- 
 ley, who died in 1557 ; and aftenvards 
 became the second wife of Thomas, 
 4th Duke of Norfolk. She died in 
 
 1563, aged 23. The Duke, after 
 marrying and losing a third wife, 
 involved himself in the consjiiracy 
 for placing the Queen of Scots on the 
 English throne, and was beheaded, 
 1572. His younger brother. Lord 
 Henry Howard, afterwards Earl of 
 Northampton, lived at Audley End 
 after the Duke's death ; but the 
 place was restored to the Duke's son, 
 Lord Thomas Howard — one of the 
 captains of the fleet which defeated 
 the Armada — made Lord Howard of 
 Walden by Elizabeth, and Earl of 
 Suffolk by James I. He died in 
 1626. He was the builder of Audley 
 End at an enormous cost. Both he 
 and his wife (but his wife especially) 
 sold places, and extorted money from 
 all suitors to the Treasury. It was 
 asserted that Lady Suffolk received 
 bribes from the Constable of Castile ; 
 and hence a saying arose that 
 " Audley End was built with Sjianish 
 gold." His descendants never seem to 
 have recovered the great "charges" 
 of the building; and James, the 
 third earl, sold the house and park 
 to Charles II. in 1665. The pur- 
 chase-money, however, was never 
 paid in full ; and in 1701 the house 
 was restored to the fifth earl, on con- 
 dition that the debt still remaining 
 on it should be blotted out. The 
 tenth Earl of Suffolk died in 1745, 
 intestate. Lord Effingham then 
 entered on the house and property 
 without molestation', but it was 
 afterwards jiroved that the true heirs 
 to the estate were the two daughters 
 of James, second Lord Griffin. The 
 house and park still remained in 
 the hands of Lord Effingham. One 
 of the daughters was the Countess of 
 Portsmouth, who died in 1762. She 
 bought the house and park, and, 
 dying without issue, left all her 
 property to the son of her sister, 
 John Griffin WJutwell. In 1784 he 
 became Lord Howard de Walden, 
 and in 1788 Baron Braybrooke of 
 Braybrooke. He died without issue ; 
 and his nearest relative by the 
 
Essex, 
 
 Boute 11. — Audley End: Description. 
 
 95 
 
 female line, K. A. Neville, Esq., of 
 Billiugbear, succeeded as second 
 Lord Braybrooke. From him the 
 pre.-^ent lord is descended. 
 
 The present house of Audley End 
 is only a i^ortion of that Avhich was 
 built hy the first Earl of Suffolk. 
 This house, when complete, is said 
 to have cost the Lord Treasurer, with 
 its furniture, 200,000/., a sum which 
 is indeed enormous when compared 
 with the cost of Hatfield, said to 
 have been only 12,000/. But the 
 real cost of Audley End is very un- 
 certain. It was begun in 1603 and 
 was not completed imtil 1616. Its 
 architect, as is now certain, was 
 John Thorpe, who built many houses 
 in England at that period, and who, 
 according to Walpole, had a special 
 taste for " barbarous ornaments and 
 balustrades." James I,, who was 
 here before the house was quite 
 finished, said that " it was too much 
 for a King, though it might do very 
 well for a Lord Treasurer : " and it 
 was regarded as the largest and most 
 stately house \\\) to that time erected 
 in England. The original plan con- 
 sisted of two large quadrangles, of 
 which the western was the largest, 
 and was approached by a bridge 
 across the Cam, and through a 
 double avenue of lime-trees. The 
 great gateway was flanked with 
 circular towers. Kound the western 
 court were apartments above an open 
 cloister, supported on alabaster pil- 
 lars ; and steps on the eastern side 
 led to a terrace on which stood the 
 present western front of the house. 
 The inner com't was beyond : and 
 its eastern side was formed by a long 
 and most stately gallery. In 1721 
 three sides of the great or western 
 quadrangle were demolished by the 
 advice of Sir John Vanburgh, Tlie 
 great gallery, forming the eastern 
 side of the inner court, was taken 
 down by the Countess of Portsmouth 
 in 1749 ; and the house now consists 
 of the remaining three sides of this 
 quadrangle. A sort of cloistered 
 
 passage, at the back of the hall, was 
 afterwards built as a substitute for 
 the gallery, which was a very noble 
 room, 24 ft. high, 32 ft. wide, and 
 226 ft. long. It was entirely fitted 
 with carved wainscot, and was hung 
 with portraits, among which was one 
 of Henry VIIL, bearing the mon- 
 strous inscription — 
 
 " Mens divina latet tanti sub corpore regis, 
 Numinis huic forma est, effigiesque Dei." 
 
 Evelyn, who visited Audley End 
 in 1664, describes it as "one of the 
 stateliest palaces of the kingdom " — 
 "a mixt fabric, 'twixt antiq. and 
 modern. ... It shows without like 
 a diadem, by the decorations of the 
 cupolas, and other ornaments on the 
 pavilions." It is, in fact, an ex- 
 cellent example of the half-Italian, 
 half-Gothic architecture of its period. 
 In the W. front the two porches — 
 each of two stories, the lower Ionic, 
 the upper Corinthian — and the para- 
 pet of open work should be specially 
 noticed. The large and lofty win- 
 dows, and the projecting bows, reach- 
 ing from the ground to the parapet, 
 are also striking. Many of the de- 
 tails are Italian and classical, but the 
 forms of the larger members, and 
 the spirit of the whole composition, 
 are still Gothic. Much careful re- 
 storation and renovation have been 
 efiected by the late, and by the 
 present, Lords Braybrooke. 
 
 The Great Hall, which is first 
 entered, is a very fine apartment, 90 
 ft. long. It is lighted by 5 large 
 windows, is panelled with oak, and 
 has at the N. end a lofty screen of 
 carved oak, reaching nearly to the 
 ceiUng. This screen is said to have 
 been brought from Italy. The ceiling 
 is of plaster, divided into 40 square 
 compartments by intersecting beams. 
 The stone screen at the S. end of the 
 hall was constructed by Sir John 
 Vanburgh, and is little in harmony 
 with the rest. Portraits and armour 
 hang on the walls ; and tJie banners 
 
96 
 
 Boute n. — Andley End: Pictures^ &c. Sect. I, 
 
 above bear tlie arms of the different 
 owners of the manor of Walden, be- 
 ginning with Geoffry de IMandevillc. 
 Of the por^ra /7s, remark — Lord Chan- 
 cellor Audley and his wife Eliz., 
 daughter of Thomas Gray, Marquis 
 of Dorset, both by Holbeia. The 
 Lord Chancellor's zeal as a " malleus 
 monachorum " has already been men- 
 tioned. He sat as High Steward 
 at the trial of Sir Thomas More, on 
 whom he passed sentence of deatli ; 
 and succeeded More as Keejier of the 
 Great Seal. In 1538 he wns made 
 Baron Audley and in 1540 K.G. 
 He died in 1544, and is buried in 
 Walden Ch. (see j^osL). In every 
 w^ay he was readily subservient to 
 Henry ; and the best (perhaps the 
 one good) action recorded of him, is 
 his foundation of Magdalene College, 
 Cambridge (see Cambridge). Mar- 
 garet Audley, their daughter and 
 heiress, wife of Tiiomas, fourth Duke 
 of Norfolk, died 1563. This portrait 
 on panel is by Lucas de Heere, and 
 has been glazed for protection. It 
 was formerly at Drayton House, and 
 was given to Lord Howard de Walden 
 by Lord George Germaine. There 
 is at Apthorpe, in the possession of 
 Lord Westmoreland, a portrait of 
 the Duke which corresponds with 
 this ; the two portraits seem to 
 have been painted on the same panel, 
 and to have been afterwards divided. 
 Sir Benjamin Rudyerd, died 1658 ; 
 Mytens. Philip Herbert, 3rd Earl 
 of Pembroke ; Mytens. Sir Thomas 
 Cornwallis, Treasurer of Calais, one 
 of Queen Marv's Privy Council, died 
 1604. 3rd, 4th, and 5th Lords Corn- 
 wallis. Lord Townshend and his 
 wife Dorothy, sister of Sir Robert 
 Walpolc, 1st Earl of Orfurd. Ed- 
 ward VI. on panel. An original 
 portrait of Pope, the poet ; some 
 l)ortraits of the Nevilles. 
 
 The ceiling of the Inne7- Hall 
 should be noticed. Here also are 
 portraits of Charles II. by Lely : of 
 George HI. and William III. 
 
 Billiard lioom. Portraits of Sir 
 
 Peter Lely, and Hugh May the 
 architect. In the background is a 
 bust of Grinling Gibbons ; this pic- 
 ture is by Lely. 
 
 State Bed Boom. Queen Charlotte, 
 1786 — far more agreeable than most 
 of the portraits — by Honeyman^ after 
 Gainsborough. This room was oc- 
 cupied by Queen Charlotte during a 
 visit to Audley End. The bed is 
 richly embroidered. 
 
 State Dressing Boom. Ceiling and 
 walls painted by Biagio Behecca. 
 Over the chimney-piece is the grant, 
 on vellum, by Charles I. of an aug- 
 mentation of arms to Sir W. Alex- 
 ander, 1st Earl of Kirby, Round 
 the border are representations of the 
 customs, &c., of Nova Scotia, which 
 colony the Earl had settled. The 
 drawings, Walpole considered, were 
 the work of Edward Norgate, Wind- 
 sor Herald, the best illuminator of 
 his time. 
 
 The singular oaken staircase, 
 which is now reached, is formed by 
 a framework of upright posts, with 
 carved shafts and rails. It ascends 
 from the ground to the upjier story, 
 and encloses a narrow, oblong well. 
 By this staircase is reached 
 
 The Saloo7i, a very stately room, 
 formerly known as the Fish Boom, 
 from the dolphins and sea monsters 
 with which the ceiling is enriched. 
 In panels on the walls are inserted 
 portraits of persons connected with 
 Audley End : mostly copied by 
 Behecca and Zeeman. (Pepys, who 
 visited Audley End in 1669, was 
 much struck by the stateliness of 
 the ceilings and chimney-pieces. 
 Returning again in 1667, he says 
 that the house " indeed, do appear 
 very fine, but not so fine as it hath 
 heretofore to me; particularly the 
 ceilings are not so good as I always 
 took them to be, being nothing so 
 well wrought as my Lord Chan- 
 cellor's (Clarendon's) are.") 
 
 Lord Brayhrool-e^s Boom. Here 
 are some good cabinet pictures, par- 
 
EssE.t. 
 
 Route 11. — Aiidleij End : the Parh. 
 
 97 
 
 ticularly some fine Canalettis, a 
 BemhrandU and a portrait (unknown) 
 by Ilolbein. 
 
 Small Library. The curtains, of 
 crimson Florentine damask, were 
 given to Henry Neville in 1670 by 
 Cosmo, Grand Duke of Tuscany. 
 Over the chimney-piece is a portrait 
 of Sir John Griffin, Lord Howard de 
 Walden, by West. In the room is a 
 small chair with a nearly triangular 
 seat, and an upright back of carved 
 oak. It belonged to Alexander Pope, 
 and was given as a keepsake to the 
 nurse who attended him in his last 
 illness. 
 
 The Library contains a fine an- 
 cient chimney-piece. The ceilings, 
 &c., are modern, and were imitated 
 from examples in other parts of the 
 house. There are here between 7000 
 and 8000 vols., including a fine folio 
 MS. Psalter, temp. Ed. I., and a 
 large paper copy of the Aldine 
 Pliny. 
 
 Dining Boom. George II., whole 
 length, by Pine. This is thought to 
 be the only original portrait existing, 
 and it is by no means flattering. 
 Pine is said to have sketched the 
 King by stealth, since he had an 
 extreme aversion to sitting for his 
 picture. Mary II., Queen of Eng- 
 land ; Vandervaart. Kobert Carr, 
 Earl of Somerset ; 3Fark Gerard (?). 
 Sir Thos. Lunsford, whole-length, 
 the famous colonel of Lunsford's 
 troopers, who were said to eat chil- 
 dren. First Marquis Cornwallis; 
 Sir W. Beediey. Sir Charles Lucas 
 (shot at Colchester) ; Dobson. 
 
 A gallery in the E. front of the 
 house leads to the chapel. In the 
 gallery are some family portraits of 
 no gi-eat interest ; and a collection 
 of birds admirably preserved and 
 arranged. A table made from the 
 Fairlop oak stands here. The view 
 from the windows — over a pic- 
 turesque flower-garden, and across 
 
 [Essex, d'c] 
 
 the park to the spire of Walden Ch. 
 — should be noticed. 
 
 The Chapel, fitted up about 1770, 
 contains a monument to Marquis 
 Cornwallis, Governor - General of 
 India ; died 1805. (His portrait is 
 in the dining room.) The loioer 
 gallery, beneath the upper, contains 
 many foreign birds of great beauty 
 and rarity, excellently arranged. 
 
 The Gardens are pleasant, but of 
 no special importance. In the park, 
 which is well wooded, undulating, 
 and commands good views, are— a 
 " Temple of Concord," erected on 
 the recovery of George III. in 1789 ; 
 a column raised by the Countess of 
 Portsmouth ; and a temple built at 
 the close of the war in 1763. This 
 stands on a hill called the " Ping 
 Hill," the summit of which is marked 
 by a circular entrenchment. Here 
 is also an aviary, 9 acres in extent. 
 The views from this point are fine, 
 especially that from the mound near 
 the keeper's cottage. The stables, 
 between the river and the road, are 
 very picturesque, and deserve atten- 
 tion. They are more ancient than 
 any part of the house ; and it has 
 been suggested that they formed a 
 portion of the hostel, or guests' apart- 
 ments, attached to the monastery. 
 Foundations of walls, &c., indicating 
 the site of the abbey itself, were 
 found in forming the flower-garden 
 on the E. side of the house. 
 
 [Queen Elizabeth, as has been 
 said, more than once visited Audlcy 
 End. In 1578 she received here a 
 deputation from the University of 
 Cambridge, and was presented with 
 " the New Testament in Greek, of 
 Eobert Stephanus his jirinting," with 
 a pair of perfumed and embroidered 
 gloves, and certain verses. Her 
 Majesty " behoulding the beauty of 
 the said gloves . . . held up one of 
 liir hands ; and then smelling unto 
 them, put them half waie upon hir 
 hands." Pepys, in 1059, after men- 
 tioning the ceilings, says that the 
 
 F 
 
98 
 
 Route 11. — Saffron Walclen :, Sister y. Sect. I. 
 
 housekeeper " took us into the collar, 
 where we drank most admiraLlf! 
 drink, a health to the King. Here I 
 played on my fflageolctte, there being 
 an excellent echo." On his second 
 visit he again drank of " much good 
 liquors. And indeed the cellars are 
 fine ; and here my wife and I did 
 sing, to my great content. And then 
 to the garden, and there did eat many 
 grapes, and took some with us." 
 Charles II., after he became pro- 
 prietor of Aiidley End, sometimes 
 visited it on his way to Newmarket, 
 and once went to church at Walden. 
 On one occasion, the Queen, and 
 sundry great ladies of the court, " had 
 a frolic to disguise themselves like 
 country lasses in red petticoats, 
 waistcoats, &c., and so goe to see a 
 fair," probably the fair of Saifron 
 Walden. But they had overdone 
 their disguise, and when the queen 
 went to a booth to Iniy a " pair of 
 yellow stockings for her sweetheart," 
 they were soon discovered, and fol- 
 lowed by crowds to the court gates. 
 It may have been the " ennui of 
 Audley End," on which St. Evre- 
 mond dwells, who was here in 1G78, 
 which induced them to undertake 
 this " frolic."] 
 
 Returning to the lodge by which 
 he entered, and skirting the park 
 wall for some distance, a gate is 
 reached 1., by which the park is 
 entered. A road across it leads to 
 the town of 
 
 Saffron Wolclen. (Inn: Rose and 
 Crown, in the market-place ; pop. 
 5478.) " A fair market town," says 
 Fuller, " which saftron may seem to 
 have coloured with the name there- 
 of." 
 
 Saffron (^Crocus officinalis) is said 
 to have been brought to England in 
 the reign of Edward III., and to have 
 been introduced at Satfron Walden 
 by Sir Thos. Smijth. But no autho- 
 rity can be cited for this ; and al- 
 though the plant does not appear to 
 be indigenous, it was certainly in- 
 
 troduced long before the reign of 
 Edward III. Tliore was a traditifm 
 at AValden that the first bulb was 
 brought to England hidden in a 
 palmer's staif. The name is Arabic 
 — sahafaran. It was planted abun- 
 dantly in this neighbourhood at the 
 end of the IGth centy., and passed 
 into Cambridgeshire between 1695 
 and 1723. The cultivation of it has 
 graduall)' diminished, and is now 
 confined to a small district at the 
 foot of the Gogmagog Hills. 
 
 Stukeley, in a letter to Gale, thus 
 faithfully describes Walden : — " A 
 narrow tongue of land shoots itself 
 out like a promontory, encompassed 
 with a valley in form of a horseshoe, 
 enclosed by distant and delightful 
 hills. On the bottom of this tongue 
 are seen the ruins of the castle ; on 
 the top, the church. The houses are 
 ranged on the side of the hill and in 
 the valley round the cli., the base of 
 which, being as high as the build- 
 ings, is discerned above the roofs." 
 The hills are all of chalk. The town 
 owes whatever importance it has had 
 to the castle founded here after the 
 Conquest by Geoffry de Mandeville, 
 and at a later jieriod to the cultiva- 
 tion of saffron. Few historical events 
 are connected with it. At a tourna- 
 ment here in 1252 Eoger de Leyburn 
 killed by chance " a valiant knight, 
 Ernauld de Moimteney." (^Matthew 
 Paris.) In 1017 the troops under 
 Fairfax established themselves in 
 Essex, and much negociation took 
 place between the arm)' and the 
 Parliamentary Commissioners. The 
 first meeting was held in the cli. 
 The points of interest here are the 
 Ch., the ruins of the Castle, and the 
 Museum. 
 
 Tlie Ch. of St. Blarij, 200 ft. long, 
 stands above the town, and has a 
 handsome tower, with pinnacles and 
 open-work battlements, surmounted 
 by a crocketed spire, 193 ft. high, 
 added by Rickman, in 1831. The 
 whole dates from the reigns of 
 Hen. VI. and VII., except the E. end 
 
Essex. Boiite 11. — Saffron Walden: CJmrcli; Castle. 
 
 99 
 
 and a part of the chancel, which 
 were built by Lord Chancellor 
 Andley. The building is an elegant 
 example of the Perp. style, and one 
 of the finest churches in the county. 
 Tlie nave is spacious, its piers light, 
 spandrils much enriched, and the 
 clerestory windows large. The very 
 lofty arcade is especially noticeable ; 
 and the clerestory of double lights, 
 filling each bay. The lower panels 
 of the clerestory are closed. There 
 are good wooden roofs to both nave 
 and chancel, which have been cleaned 
 since 1860. The pews are all re- 
 moved, and chairs replace them. 
 The nave aisles are nearly as wide 
 as the central passage. The chancel 
 has been entirely restored. The E. 
 window is by Hughes and Ward ; and 
 beneath it are paintings of the four 
 Evangelists, on slate, with a back- 
 ground of gold diaper. The brackets 
 of the roof support figures of the 12 
 Apostles. (This roof was brought 
 here from Sudbury by Lord Audley.) 
 At the end of the N. nave aisle is an 
 enriched arcade against three bays 
 of the N. wall, with sculptures, much 
 mutilated. There seem to have been 
 chantries at the end of each aisle. 
 
 Ten Earls of Suffolk are buried in 
 a vault below the chancel, but are 
 without monument of any kind. In 
 the S. chancel aisle (or S. chancel) 
 is the monument of Lord Chancellor 
 Audley — an altar tomb of black 
 marble, with the arms and orna- 
 ments much obliterated. On it is 
 what Fuller calls " the lamentable epi- 
 taph " of the Lord Chancellor, founder 
 of iif-AUDLEY-A^ College, Cam- 
 bridge — 
 
 " The stroke of Deathe's inevitable dart 
 Ilatb now, alas ! of lyfe bcraft the hart 
 Of Syr Thomas Audeley, of the Garter 
 
 Knight, 
 Late Chancellour of Englond under owr 
 Prince of might 
 , Henry Theight, wyrthy high renowne, 
 And made by him Lord Audeley of this 
 town." 
 
 It may be remarked that in certain 
 Latin epitaphs in the ch., Walden 
 
 rejoices in the name of "Waldenia 
 Orocata." 
 
 Outside the Ch. remark the fine 
 turret pinnacles at the angles of the 
 tower, and at the E. end of the nave. 
 There are N. and S. porches. The 
 Ch. of Thaxted (of which the spire 
 is visible from the spire of Saftron 
 Walden) is of the same date, and is 
 the only ch. in Essex to be compared 
 with this. The chancel of Thaxted 
 and the nave of Walden are the best 
 portions of the two churches. 
 
 Of the Castle, lying E. of the ch., 
 the remains show only masses of 
 flinted grout-work. The tower was 
 built recently to serve as a flag- 
 tower. The ruins are no doubt 
 of the 12th cent. ; but the castle 
 has had little history, and is chiefly 
 interesting as having been the 
 head of the great barony of the 
 Mandevilles Earls of Essex. Geoffry 
 de Mandeville, after the Conquest, 
 obtained 117 lordships, 39 of which 
 were in Essex. Some enormous 
 earth- works, known as the " Battle " 
 of " Peddle " ditches, extend on the 
 W. and S. sides of the town, beyond 
 the castle. They may have been 
 brought into connection with its de- 
 fences, but are certainly of far earlier 
 date. The southern bank is 702 ft. 
 long. 
 
 Behind the castle is a singular 
 excavation in the chalk of concentric 
 circles, called the 3Iaze, 110 ft. in 
 diameter. There is a local tradition 
 that this is a copy of another and 
 more ancient maze. See it figured 
 in the Ecv. Ed. Trollopc's very 
 curious paper on ancient and medi- 
 seval labyrinths — 'Arch. Journal,' 
 vol. XV. 
 
 The Museum on the Bury or Castle 
 Hill, opened 1835, contains a good 
 provincial collection of local antiqui- 
 ties and natural history. Here are 
 the skeleton of Wallace, the lion born 
 in England ; the slipper of Elizabeth 
 of Bohemia, and the fan and gloves 
 of Mary Queen of Scots ; also some 
 Roman remains from Chesterford 
 
 7 2 
 
100 
 
 Boiite 11. — Saffron Walden: BuUdings. Sect. I. 
 
 The natural history department is 
 well arranged, and there is a good 
 printed catalogue of the whole. 
 
 The Sun Inn, built about 1625, is 
 a picturesque specimen of domestic 
 architecture. It has quaint gables, 
 ornamented with stucco-work, and 
 over the gate two giants support the 
 sun. It was Cromwell's head-quar- 
 ters. In Church-street are some 
 very curious old fronts with carved 
 and embossed gables. Eemark espe- 
 cially a very good timber house of the 
 early part of the 16th centy., with 
 oriel windows, under the two upper 
 of which are shields of arms and the 
 badge of Hen. VIII. with supporters. 
 
 The Corn Exchange, with a hand- 
 some portal, supporting a clock- 
 tower, and including News-rooms, 
 the Savings- Bank and Post Office, 
 forms a creditable group of modern 
 architecture (1849). An old hall 
 was taken down to make way for 
 them. In the market-place is a good 
 new drinking fountain, with sculp- 
 tures on its upper part. 
 
 At the lower or W. end of the 
 town nve Almshouses, founded by Ed- 
 ward VI., and lately rebuilt. Their 
 revenue amoimts to nearly lOOOZ. per 
 annum, and they maintain 30 poor 
 men and women. Here is deposited 
 a brown W'ooden bowl tijiped with 
 silver, with the Virgin and Child at 
 the bottom of the bowl engraved on 
 silver. Pepys records his having 
 drunk out of this bowl. The Free 
 Grammar School was founded in the 
 16th centy. by John Leech, vicar. 
 
 Here are a Horticultural and an 
 Agricidtural Society, both well sup- 
 ported. 
 
 The worthies of Walden include 
 Sir Thomas Sniijth, born here 1514, 
 one of the most learned men of his 
 time, whose life has been written by 
 Strype; and Gabriel Harvey, son of 
 a rope-maker, and born about 1550. 
 He was the friend of Spenser, and 
 was persecuted by Nash, whose 
 pamphlet ' Have with you to Saftron 
 Walden, or Gabriel Harvey's Hunt 
 
 is up,' is one of the rarest, and one 
 of the most worthless, of the biblio- 
 maniac's treasury. 
 
 The fine view of the cli. and town 
 from the station at Saffron Walden 
 should not be unnoticed. 
 
 [^Wimh'sh CJiiirch, 3 m. S.E. of 
 Saffron Walden, has a Norm. W. 
 front. Badidnter, 1 m. beyond, is 
 throughout Dec. 
 
 The Pant, Gwin, or Blackwater (it 
 has, or has had, all these names at 
 different parts of its course) rises in 
 this parish, and flows across Essex 
 to join the Chelmer at Maldon. 
 Boats, according to Harrison (in 
 Holinshed, vol. i.), " have come in 
 time past from Bilie Abbey beside 
 Maldon and the moores in Eadwinter. 
 I have heard also that an anchor 
 was found there, near to a red 
 willow." Great Sampfond, 2^ m. 
 beyond Eadwinter, has an interesting 
 Ch. (dedicated to St. Michael). The 
 chancel and S. transept are very 
 good Dec. A wall arcade surrounds 
 the chancel. There is a fine tomb of 
 the same date in the transept. The 
 ch. was given by the Conqueror to 
 Battle Abbey, and remaiuf d in pos- 
 session of that monastery initil the 
 dissolution.] 
 
 N. of Audley End Stat, is the first 
 Tunnel on this line of rly. It is 500 
 yards long, and over its S. entrance 
 are the arms of Lord Braybrooke 
 (Neville and Griffin). It runs under 
 a mound planted with trees, enclos- 
 ing Lord Braybrooke's Aviary. (See 
 ante.) 
 
 For a short space the rly. passes 
 through Lord Braybrooke"s property. 
 After an interval a second tunnel, 
 400 ft. long, occurs, also driven 
 through the chalk. 
 
 At Littlelmry, a village on 1. of the 
 line, lived Henry Winstanley, archi- 
 tect of the first Eddy stone light- 
 house, and of many ingenious contriv- 
 ances in waterworks and mechanics ; 
 to whom we are also indebted for 
 
Essex. 
 
 Boute 11. — Chesterfcyi'd. 
 
 101 
 
 a rfire and costly volume concerning 
 " Aiidley End," and aftbrding evi- 
 dence of the condition of the house 
 before the great quadrangle was 
 destroyed. He perished in the Eddy- 
 stone Lighthouse. His house at 
 Littlebury was shown as late as 
 1721, at 12cl. a head, for the benefit 
 of his widow. The ch. has Norm, 
 portions. 
 
 From Audley the rly. descends 
 the valley of the Cam to Cambridge. 
 It enters Cambridgeshire near 
 
 47.2- 111' Chesterfonl Stat. Between 
 Little Chesterford and Great Chester- 
 ford the line crosses the Cam or 
 Granta, near a Roman station, tlie 
 ancient Iceanum, once thought to be 
 Camboricum. The foundations of 
 walls enclosing about 50 acres are 
 known to have existed a century and 
 a half ago. The site was thoroughly 
 explored 1846-7-8, and interesting 
 discoveries made of many Roman 
 remains, under the superintendence 
 of the late Lord Braybrooke, then the 
 Hon. R. C. NevHle. 
 
 [The Church of Streethall, 2i m. 
 S.AV. of Chesterford Stat., contains 
 much work which has been regarded 
 as Saxon. The chancel arch is 
 Norm. 
 
 Hadstoch Church, on the border of 
 
 the county, 4 m. N.E., is Norm, in 
 its main fabric. The N. door of this 
 ch., like that of Copford in Essex, 
 and certain doors of Worcester and 
 Rochester Cathedrals, is said to have 
 been covered with the tanned skin of 
 a sacrilegious Dane, who had been 
 killed in an attempt to plunder the 
 ch. The N. door of Hadstock, being 
 much damaged, was removed in 
 1846 ; but part of the original wood- 
 work, with the massive nails used to 
 attach the skin, is preserved at Aud- 
 ley End. Portions of the skin from 
 Hadstock, Copford, and Worcester, 
 were examined at the request of Mr. 
 Albert Way by the late Mr. Que- 
 kett, Ass. Conserv. of the Mus. R. C. 
 Surgeons. In all cases the skin was 
 pronounced human. (See ' Archaeol. 
 Journal,' vol. v.). It would seem 
 that, whether legally or not, such a 
 punishment was occasionally in- 
 flicted on stealers of ch. jjroperty in 
 the 11th and 12th centuries. 
 
 In " Sunken Church Field," in 
 this parish, are the foundations of 
 extensive Roman villas. The site 
 commands a view of the Bartlow 
 tumuli.] 
 
 (For the line from Chesterford 
 to Cambridge, see Cajmbridgeshire, 
 Rte. 1.) 
 
( 102 ) 
 
 SECTION IT. 
 
 SUFFOLK. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 *:(.* The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where thex^laces are 
 
 described. 
 
 KOTJTE PAGE 
 
 1. London to Ipswich, the Or- 
 
 well .102 
 
 2. Bentley Junction to Had- 
 
 leigli. Little Wenliam . , 112 
 
 3. Sudbury to Thetford by 
 
 Bury St. EdmuncVs. Long 
 Melford, LavenJiam, Ick- 
 worth, Hengrave, Barton . 115 
 
 4. Sudbury to Cambridge by 
 
 Clare and Haverhill . . 110 
 
 5. Ipswich to Yarmouth, by 
 
 Woodhridge and Lowes- 
 toft. Orford, Framling- 
 ham, Aldhorough, Dun- 
 
 nOUTE PAGE 
 
 WAch, Soutliwold, Somer- 
 leyton, Burgh Castle . . 141 
 
 ! G. Ipswich to Newmarket by 
 Bury St. Edmund's. Stoiv- 
 market, Woolpit .... 1G7 
 
 7. Ipswich to Norwich by De&en- 
 j ham. Eye, and Diss . . . 171 
 
 1 8. Ipswich to Norwich by Stow- 
 ; market, Finingham, and 
 I Mellis 174 
 
 j 9. Bury St. Edmund's to Biin- 
 j gay and Beccles. OaTdey, 
 
 Wingfield, Mettingham . 174 
 
 ROUTE 1. 
 
 LONDON (MANNINGTREE) TO IPS- 
 WICH. THE ORWELL. 
 
 {Great Eastern Bailway.') 
 
 (For the line from London to 
 Manniiigtree, see Essex, Rte. 2). 
 
 On quitting Manningtree the rly. 
 crosses the Stour by a long, low, 
 wooden bridge, on which is a quay 
 and warehouse for shipping corn, 
 and enters Suffolk. 
 
 [L. about 3 m., at East Berglwlt, is 
 a large handsome Perp. Ch., de- 
 
 prived, according to the legend, by 
 the machinations of devils, of its 
 steeple, — which certainly remains in 
 an unfinished state. The ch. is of 
 flint and stone, with much rich 
 panelling. The clerestory is un- 
 usually developed. The N. doorway 
 and the completed portion of the 
 tower, deserve special notice. In the 
 chancel is the monument of a lawyer 
 — the very model of his profes^iiou — 
 one Edward Lambe, who althougli 
 " with his councill he helped many, 
 yctt took fees scarce of any." He 
 died in 1647. The bells (as at Wickes 
 and "Wrabness near Harwich, see 
 Essex, Rte. 7) are hung in a kind of 
 
Suffolk, 
 
 BmUe 1. — East BerglioU — Ipswich, 
 
 103 
 
 wooden cage in tlie churchj'ard. 
 Constable, the landscape painter, 
 who was born here in 1776 (at Flat- 
 ford, in East Bergholt parish, — the 
 house in which he was born has been 
 pulled down), and whose heart was 
 never cold towards the scenes of his 
 bo3^hood, thiTS describes the place : — 
 " East Bergholt is pleasantly situated 
 in the most cultivated part of Suffolk, 
 on a spot which overlooks the fertile 
 valley of the Stour, which river sepa- 
 rates that county on the south from 
 Essex. The beauty of the surround- 
 ing scenery, its gentle declivities, its 
 luxuriant meadow flats sprinkled 
 with flocks and herds, its well-culti- 
 vated uplands, its woods and rivers, 
 with numerous scattered villages and 
 churches, farms and picturesque cot- 
 tages, all impart to this particular 
 spot an amenity and elegance hardly 
 anywhere else to be found." Con- 
 stable was the son of a miller, 
 which, as he loved to say, accounted 
 for the many mills, and streams, and 
 dams, and weirs, of his pictures. " I 
 associate," he writes, " my careless 
 boyhood " with all that lies on the 
 banks of the Stour : those scenes 
 made me a painter, and I am grate- 
 ful." Even his cows are always of 
 the Suftblk breed, without horns, 
 A view of the house in which he was 
 born forms the frontispiece to his 
 ' English Landscape ; ' and many of 
 his favourite subjects are in the im- 
 mediate neighbourhood. He was 
 fond of introducing the spire of Ded- 
 ham Ch. (on the Essex bank of the 
 river, nearly opposite Bergholt). 
 The old turnpike road from Ipswich 
 to Colchester runs near Dedham, and 
 on one occasion he tells us, when 
 travelling in a coach with two 
 strangers, " In passing the vale of 
 Dedliam, one of them remarked on 
 my saying it was beautiful, ' Yes, 
 sir ; this is Constable's country.' I 
 then told him who I was, lest he 
 should spoil it." — (Life, by C. E. 
 LesHe, p. 232). 
 About 3 m. N, of East Bergholt is 
 
 Eolton St. Mary Ch., Early Dec. 
 (chancel and nave), Perp. (tower). 
 
 About 2 m. W. of East Bergholt, on 
 the old Colchester turnpike, is Strat- 
 ford, a village with water-mills and 
 several villus scattered about it. It 
 has a handsome Perp. Ch. (the chan- 
 cel, Dec.) Constable drew from this 
 village and its neighbourhood many 
 subjects for his pencil. 
 
 Deep cuttings before reaching 
 62^ m. from London, Bentleij Stat. 
 Bentley was the ancient seat of the 
 Tollemache family. 
 
 [From Bentley a branch line 
 passes to Hadleigh, see Kte. 2], 
 
 The rly. now makes a sweep E, 
 towards the Orwell, so as to approach 
 Wherstead village; and soon after 
 crossing the Gipping river, reaches 
 
 68 m. Ipswich Stat. 
 
 Inns : White Horse, Tavern Street, 
 best. At this house occurred Mr. 
 Pickwick's remarkable adventure 
 with the lady in yellow curl papers. 
 Crown and Anchor, comfortable, 
 Westgate Street ; Ked Lion. 
 
 Ipswich, the county town of Suf- 
 folk (pop. in 1861, 37,950), is agree- 
 ably placed, on a gentle slope, at the 
 head of the saltwater estuary of the 
 Orwell. Its name, in Domesday 
 'Gyppeswic,' indicates its position 
 on the Gipping river, which, below 
 the town, expands into the estuary 
 called the Orwell. (The Gipping 
 rises near a village of the same name, 
 N. of Stowmarket. It is marked by 
 Kemble as a settlement of the " Gip- 
 pingas," who may have given name to 
 the river, the course of which is, at 
 least as far as Shrubland Park, plea- 
 sant and well wooded. At the end of 
 tlie last century the river was made 
 navigable as high as Stowmarket. 
 Tliere are 15 locks between Stow- 
 market and Ipswich — ^a distance of IG 
 miles.) A tolerably good idea of the 
 position of the town is to be obtained 
 from the rly. stat., and a better one 
 
104 
 
 Route 1. — Ipsivich : History. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 from tlio tower of St. IMary-at-Key, or 
 from the higher Arboretum, The 
 beautiful estuary of the Orwell, and 
 the winding valley of the Gipping, 
 are seen at once; and the very 
 favourable position of the harbour is 
 evident. The discovery of a tesse- 
 lated pavement in Castle Field (now 
 in the INIuseum, see post) proves 
 that the site liad not been neglected 
 by the Romans, though it does not 
 appear that any important station 
 was fixed here. Ipswich is first men- 
 tioned in the ' Sax. Chron.,' ad ann. 
 991, when it was plundered by tlie 
 Northmen under the sons of Steitin 
 and the famous Olaf Tryggwesson, 
 shortly before they advanced into 
 Essex, and encountered Brihtnoth 
 at Maldon (see Essex, Ete. 4). Ips- 
 wich at this time possessed a royal 
 mint ; and some hundreds of silver 
 "stycas" with the inscription "^thel- 
 red II. Gip.," were found not many 
 years since under a house in the Old 
 Butter Market. The town seems to 
 have been walled at tlie time of the 
 Conquest, and a " castle " was then 
 built, of which no traces remain. 
 The walls and gates also have long 
 since disappeared ; but the narrow 
 and winding streets still aiford suifi- 
 cient evidence that the town was 
 once pent up within fortifications. 
 In 1190, John gave Ipswich its first 
 charter, which was confirmed by 
 Edwards I., II., and III, The town 
 traded largely with Flanders and 
 the north of Europe. At a later 
 period its ships brought ling in 
 great quantities from Iceland, and 
 I)e Foe asserts that the plague was 
 introduced in certain large trading 
 vessels known as " Ipswich cats." 
 The town itself was famous for its 
 manufactures of woollen and sail 
 cloth, for which it seems to have 
 been indebted to a colony of Flemings. 
 Ipswich ships formed an important 
 part of the fleet collected on this and 
 on the southern coast during the 
 French wars of Edward III. ; but as 
 a port it had apparently much de- 
 
 clined in the reign of Elizabeth, 
 when it contributed only two ships 
 toward the defence of the country. 
 Elizabeth twice visited Ipswich, and 
 sailed down the Orwell in great 
 state, attended by the corporation. 
 The town had been noted for many 
 autos da fe under Mary ; and 
 witchfinders were active here in the 
 middle of the next century. The 
 "Ipswich witches," of whom one or 
 two Avere burnt here, were so trouble- 
 some that their standing in the witch 
 " sabbat " must have been consider- 
 able. (The last of them, one Grace 
 Pett, laid her hand heavily on a 
 farmers sheep, who, in order to 
 punisli her, fastened one of the sheep 
 in the ground and burnt it, except 
 the feet, which were mider the earth. 
 The next morning Grace Pett was 
 found burnt to a cinder — except 
 her feet. Her fate is recorded in 
 the ' Philosophical Transactions ' as 
 a ease of spontaneous combustion). 
 Ipswich had little history during 
 the Civil War, or in later times. Its 
 trade abroad, and with coasting 
 vessels, has greatly increased of late 
 years ; and the town now contains 
 numerous manufactories of great 
 importance, especially those for agri- 
 cultural implements, which are per- 
 haps the best in England, 
 
 The name which is most promi- 
 nently associated with Ipswich is 
 that of Cardinal Wolsey, born here in 
 the parish of St. Nicholas in 1471 ; 
 in all probability not the son of a 
 butcher (though a butcher of his 
 name was living at Ipswich not many 
 years ago. — W. Wliite). His father 
 was at least an opulent burgess. 
 The corn market is said to stand on 
 the site of shambles built by him ; 
 and Wolsey's own birthplace is point- 
 ed out in a house, now modernised, in 
 a passage leading to St. Nicholas's 
 churchyard, where his father is 
 buried — so at least says tradition, the 
 only authority for either statement. 
 His college here— 
 
Suffolk. Boute l.—Ijpswich : WortJiies ; Churches. 
 
 105 
 
 "which fell with him 
 Unwilling to outlive the good that did it," 
 
 will be afterwards notieed. Other 
 worthies of Ipswich are Balxiih 
 Brownrlgg (son of an Ipswich mer- 
 chant) Bp, of Exeter from 1641 to 
 the deprivation. He died in 1659. 
 Benjamin Lan)j, successively Bp. of 
 Peterborough, Lincoln, and Ely, died 
 1671. Clara Reeve, authoress of the 
 ■Old English Baron,' died 1807. 
 Her father was curate of St. Nicholas. 
 Mrs. Trimmer, died 1810 ; she was 
 tlie daughter of Joshua Kii-by, " de- 
 signer in perspective " to George 
 III. Gainsborough, born at Sud- 
 bury (see Essex, Ete. 8), lived for 
 some years in a house in Lower 
 Brook Street. (A curious figure 
 painted by him remains in the office 
 of the 'Ipswich Journal' — see post). 
 At Ipswich (in 1740) Garrick made 
 his first appearance, under the name 
 of Aboan, in Southern's tragedy of 
 ' Oroonoko.' 
 
 The Duke of Buckingham de- 
 scribed Ipswich to Charles II. as " a 
 town without inhabitants, a river 
 without water, streets without names, 
 and where the asses wore boots." The 
 booted asses were employed to roll 
 the bowling-green of Viscount Here- 
 ford, adjoining the town. The streets 
 have long been named, but the town 
 is still somewhat intricate to tra- 
 verse. The principal streets— Ta- 
 vern-street and Westgate - street — 
 open into a small central square 
 called Corn Hill, where is a new and 
 somewhat imposing Town Hall. The 
 points of chief interest in Ipswich are 
 the Churches, of which ^St. Margaret's 
 and the new ch. of **S'^. Mary Tower 
 are the most important ; *Sparrowes 
 House, in the Old Butter Market ; 
 the *Museum ; the Gateway of Wol- 
 sey's College, and the Arboretum. 
 Those who care for machinery should 
 also visit Messrs. Bansome and Sims' 
 manufactory of agricultural imple- 
 ments. 
 
 Ipswich contains 13 churches, the 
 greater part of which, though pre- 
 
 senting some good specimens of flint 
 masonry, are not remarkable for 
 size or beauty. St. Margaret's is a 
 Dec. building, with some Perp. addi- 
 tions. The chancel arch, with wide 
 hagioscope (?) arches on either 
 side, open to the ground, is Perp. 
 The wooden roof of the nave, spring- 
 ing from corbels brought down be- 
 tween the clerestory windows, is 
 very rich, though much mutilated. 
 (In niches above the corbels are 
 figures of angels, all with their heads 
 knocked off — no doubt by Dowsing 
 and his gang, who also destroyed 
 here "the Twelve Apostles" in 
 stone). The roof was apparently 
 painted in the 17th centy. The 
 aisles (and nave arcade) are Dec. 
 There is a fine early Perp. font, 
 and a lofty Perp. S. porch, with 
 three niches above the entrance. 
 The lions, seiant, crowned, which 
 form the dripstones of the porch, are 
 very characteristic of Sufiblk Perp. 
 churches. The tower, of flint and 
 pebbles, is fine. The stepped battle- 
 ments of the ch. should be noticed, 
 and the merchants' marks in the 
 window spandrels. >S'^. Mary - at- 
 Tower has been entirely rebuilt (com- 
 pleted 1868) with the exception of 
 the Perp. jsiers and arches. This 
 has been done, at a cost of many 
 thousands, by Mr. Bacon of Ips- 
 wich ; a noble gift *' Deo et ecclesijB." 
 The ch. (Phippson, archit.) is built 
 of flint, with coins, windows, &c., of 
 freestone. At the end of the S. 
 aisle is a lofty and very picturesque 
 tower, capped by a spire. Emblems 
 of the four Evangelists project from 
 the angles of the tower parapet. In 
 the ch. is much stained glass by 
 Wailes, Clayton and Bell, and some 
 striking windows by O'Connor. No- 
 tice also a mural monument, remark- 
 ably good for its time, for John 
 Eobinsou, portman of the town, died 
 1666. There are also two brasses of 
 notaries (1475 and 1506) with ink- 
 horn and penner,— emblems of their 
 calling. 
 
106 
 
 Boute 1. — Ipswich: Churches; Museum. Sect. II. 
 
 The Ch. of St. Mary-at-Key (Quay) 
 is Perp., with a very good nave roof, 
 reseoibliug St. Margaret's. The font 
 and lofty tower deserve attention. 
 Here is the small but highly finished 
 brass of Thomas Pounder, merchant, 
 and wife, died 1525. It is of Flemish 
 workmanship. Here is also the tomb 
 of Tooley, founder of the Almshouses 
 (^see post). St. Lawrence is a good 
 Perp, oh., begun 1431 by John Bot- 
 told, as appears from an inscrip- 
 tion on his tomb. The chancel was 
 built by John Baldwyn, draper, in 
 1449. In St. Peter's, a Dec. and 
 Perp. ch., is a large, square Norm. 
 font of black marble, much mutilated. 
 In >S'^. Nicholas' Ch., with Dec. and 
 Perp. portions, is buried Sir Christo- 
 pher Milton, the only brother of the 
 poet. Here also is a brass for Wm. 
 Style (1475) and wife. In >S'^. Mat- 
 thew's Ch. is a very rich Perp. font. 
 
 At the N.W. corner of Lady Lane 
 stood a small chapel which contained 
 the famous image known as " Our 
 Lady of Ipswich." Pilgrimages were 
 made to it from all quarters, and 
 when Wolsey laid the foundation of 
 his college, he passed thence in 
 solemn procession to this chapel. 
 The image was pulled down by 
 Thomas Cromwell's order, *' conveyed 
 in to a shipp that verie fewe were 
 privie to yt," and carried to London, 
 where, wrote Thacker to Cromwell, 
 " I have bestowed itt in your ward- 
 robe of bedds til your Lordship's 
 plesure shal be known . . . Ther is 
 nothyng about hir but ij half shoes 
 of silver and iiij stones of cristall set 
 in. silver." It was publicly burned. 
 
 Sparrowe's House, in the Old But- 
 ter Market, now occupied by Mr. 
 Haddock, bookseller, is (in its pre 
 sent condition) an excellent specimen 
 of Chas. II. ornamentation, well pre- 
 served and well cared for. The 
 house was built by George Capping 
 in 1567, and was named from the 
 Sparrow family, whose residence it 
 was for two centuries. (The vault 
 
 of the Sparrows, with the inscrip- 
 tion *' Nidus Passerum," is in St. 
 Lawrence's Ch.). The exterior of 
 the house, at any rate, was altered 
 after the liestoratiou. It is profusely 
 ornamented with festoons, foliage, 
 and bas-reliefs, those in front of the 
 4 bay windows representing the 4 
 quarters of the world, others having 
 reference, perhaps, to the wool trade. 
 The front (on which are the armorial 
 bearings of Charles II.) is supported 
 by riclily carved pilasters on the 
 ground-lioor. Within, the dining- 
 room is panelled with oak, and fur- 
 nished with a finely carved chimney- 
 piece with the arms of Sparrow. In 
 the attic is a chamber said to have 
 been used as a secret chapel by the 
 Jesuits. The story of Charles II. 
 having been concealed here is quite 
 unfounded ; and, on the whole, the 
 outside is more curious than the 
 interior. 
 
 The *3Iuseum, in Museum-street 
 (established in 1847. Its first presi- 
 dent was the Eev. W. Kirby, the ento- 
 mologist, vicar of Barham, about 6 m. 
 from Ipswich (see jjosi). He had pro- 
 jected such an establishment 50 years 
 before it was opened) is well worth 
 a visit. It is open throughout the 
 week. In the entrance-hall remark 
 a Koman tesselated pavement, found 
 in 1854 in Castle Field, in the parish 
 of St. Blatthew, Ipswich ; and the 
 ancient Ducking Stool for the punish- 
 ment of scolds, bearing the date 
 1579. On the staircase are some 
 large fossils from the red crag ; and 
 round a door leading into the lower 
 room are some carved heads brought 
 from the old Market Cross. One of 
 these — a man's head with a knife in 
 the mouth — is here said to represent 
 the father of Wolsey. It is perhaps 
 the figure of a juggler or "trege- 
 tour," such as Chaucer has described. 
 In the lower room is an excel- 
 lent mineralogical and geological 
 collection — very well arranged — 
 chiefly under the care of the lute 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boufe 1. — Ifsicich : Arcliceology. 
 
 107 
 
 Professor Henslow — (of ■whom there 
 is a very indifferent early portrait 
 on the staircase). The collection is 
 unusually rich in fossils from the red 
 and coralline crags of the Eastern 
 coast. Among them, the mastodons' 
 teeth in a case rt. near the head of 
 the room, should be specially no- 
 ticed. The skeleton of a boa-con- 
 strictor, resembling one of the horrors 
 in a Flemish picture of diablerie, and 
 a fine case of lions, tigers, leopards 
 and their cubs, are also in this room, 
 round the lower part of wliich is 
 arranged a good collection of British 
 bii'ds. In a small inner room are 
 some additional fossils and speci- 
 mens, including fragments of bear 
 and monkey from the Kyson beds. 
 In the galleries above are (rt.) fish, 
 red crag fossils, and minerals; and 
 (1.), Eoman British urns and relics 
 from the cemetery at Felixstow and 
 other parts of Suffolk ; flint celts and 
 bronze weapons, also from Suffolk 
 " finds," and other antiquities. On 
 the staircase leading to tlie galleries, 
 is a large picture by Hay don, repre- 
 senting a meeting of anti-slavery 
 *' delegates " in London in 1840. 
 All are portraits. The speaker is tlie 
 well-known Thomas Clurkson, born 
 and buried at Playford, near Ips- 
 vnch. 
 
 In a lower apartment are — a library 
 belonging to the corporation, chiefly 
 theological, and containing nothing 
 of great importance, and the books of 
 the Philosophical Society. Among 
 them is an illustrated copy of Page's 
 'Suffolk' in many volumes, and 27 
 vols, of MS. collections for Suffolk, 
 made by a Mr. Fitch of Ipswich. 
 Here is a portrait of Sir Nathaniel 
 Bacon, grandson of Elizabeth's lord 
 keeper, recorder of Ipswich, and its 
 representative in Parliament ; one of 
 Kirby the entomologist, by Bischoff; 
 and a magnificent portrait of Admiral 
 Sir Edward Hughes, by Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds. This picture was presented 
 by Admiral Page. 
 
 The Gafeicay of WoJsey's College 
 
 is in College-street, in a corner of 
 St. Peter's chm-chj^ard. The col- 
 lege—of which the buildings sur- 
 rounded, rather than covered, six 
 acres — occupied the site of an Augus- 
 tinian Priory, one of the lesser reli- 
 gious houses of which Wolsey had 
 procured the disendowment, assign- 
 ing their revenues to his two founda- 
 tions, here and at Oxford. This was 
 designed to furnish scholars for tlie 
 Cardinal's greater college of Christ 
 Church. But it did not survive for 
 two years. It was suppressed by 
 Henry in 1538 on Wolsey 's disgrace, 
 and its revenues were appropriated 
 to less worthy purposes. The sole 
 relic is this gateway. It is a low, 
 Tudor portal in brick, in a state of 
 great decay, with the arms of Heniy 
 VIII. on a stone tablet above it. Fuller 
 gives as one of the causes of the 
 king's displeasure that the Cardinal 
 had placed his own arms above those 
 of the king on the gate of this col- 
 lege. Decidedly there was no room 
 for any such addition here; but this 
 can only have been a side entrance, — • 
 the grand portal was no doubt swept 
 away with the rest of the building. 
 
 There are a few picturesque gables 
 and carved brackets still remaining 
 in Ipswich, but the greater jDart of 
 the old houses have been destroyed 
 within the last few years. Some re- 
 main in Fore-street. The 'Neptune' 
 Inn is one of these old dwellings ; 
 and opposite is the house of Thomas 
 Eldrtd, who sailed round the world 
 with Cavendish. It contains a fine 
 carved chimney-piece; and panel 
 paintings representing scenes in 
 Eldred's life. Smart's Almsliouses, 
 founded in 1550, were rebuilt in 
 184G, and are worth notice. Their 
 founders were Tooley and Smart, 
 both portmen of Ipswich, whose 
 gifts are thus recorded on exterior 
 tablets : — 
 
 *• In peaceful silence lett gi*eat Toolie rest 
 W'liosa charitable deeds bespeak him blest." 
 
 " I^et gentle Smart sleep on in pious trust, 
 Behold his charity ! Respect his dust." 
 
108 BoiUe 1 . — I])simch : Arboretum ; Excursions. Sect. II. 
 
 On the way to the Arboretum, at 
 the head of tlio town, Christchurch 
 Parh (J. N. Fonncrcau. Esq.) is 
 passed. Tlie house, which contains 
 some good pictures, is Tudor. It 
 was erected by Sir Edmund Withe- 
 poll in 1549, on the site of a Priory 
 of the Holy Trinity. Over the door 
 is the date, L549, and the inscription, 
 " Frugalitatcm sic servas ut dissi- 
 pationcm non incurras." The bed 
 in which Elizabeth slept is still 
 shown here ; and on the hall chim- 
 ney-piece is a curious veiled bust, 
 at least 200 years old, and affording 
 proof that the " trick " of recent 
 sculptors is by no means new. The 
 park (about 70 acres) contains a few 
 deer, and some very fine old trees. 
 The Lower Arboretum (admission GcZ.) 
 is divided from the Upper by a 
 narrow lane. The Upper is free to 
 the pul)lic. In the Low^er are some 
 fine elms ; and the large masses 
 of flowering shrubs in the Upper 
 Arboretum are striking in the spring. 
 There is a wide view over the town 
 (in which the spire of St. Mary's-at- 
 Tower is conspicuous) and across the 
 valley, richly wooded. In Henley 
 Kow, beyond the Arboretum, is 
 Queen Elizabeth's Grammar Scliool, 
 a somewhat monotonous building of 
 red brick, the first stone of which 
 was laid by Prince Albert in 1851. 
 It is the centre of a line of Tudor 
 houses. The old school stood in 
 Foundation-street, and was one of 
 the oldest endowments in the king- 
 dom. It was swallowed up by Wolsey 
 for his college, but was re-established 
 by Henry VIII. and afterwards by 
 Elizabeth. A field-path turning olf 
 a little beyond the row of houses of 
 which the College is the centre, leads 
 through a noble avenue of elms well 
 worth a visit. Unhappily they are 
 (1SG8) threatened with destruction. 
 
 The Factory of Messrs. Eansome 
 and Sims, on the banks of the Orwell, 
 adjoining the Ipswich Dock (the 
 largest single dock in England), will 
 
 repay a visit from anyone interested 
 in uiachinery and machine-making. 
 The factory has been established for 
 nearly 90 years. It covers 11 acres, 
 employs more than 1200 men, and 
 steam amounting to IGO horse- 
 power. Agricultural implements, for 
 which Sufiblk (and this establish- 
 ment in particular) has long been 
 famous, are chiefly made here; — • 
 ploughs of various sorts for exporta- 
 tion to difterent countries, threshing 
 and winnowing machines, and all 
 the ingenious contrivances of mo- 
 dern farming "science." Kail way 
 chairs are also made here by a very 
 quick and clever process. A library 
 and a large dining-hall are esta- 
 blished for the use of the men. 
 
 Holy Wells (J. C. Cobbold, Esq.) 
 closely adjoins Ipswich, on the 1. 
 bank of the Orwell. 
 
 Steamers run 3 times a week from 
 Ipswich to London, and from London 
 to Ipswich. Three times daily 
 (and more frequently in the summer) 
 steamers pass down the Orwell from 
 Ipswich to Harwich. 
 
 The excursion down the Orwell 
 should on no account be neglected. 
 It atibrds perhaps the pleasantest 
 scenery in the Eastern Counties. 
 Felixstow, on the coast between the 
 Orwell and the Deben, is best visited 
 from Ipswich. Those who care for 
 parks and gardens, should visit 
 Sbrubland and Wolverstoue; and 
 proceeding to Woodbridge by rail, 
 an interesting day's excursion may 
 be made to Butley Abbey and Orford 
 Castle (see Ete. 5). By rail al-^o 
 Little Wenham Hall and Hadleigh 
 (Ete. 2) may easily be reached from 
 Ij)swich. 
 
 (a) The hanlcs of the Orwell from 
 Ipswich to Harwich, 10 m. (the 
 " voyage " takes about 1 hour) resem- 
 ble somewhat in scenery, and are 
 hardly inferior to those of the inoro 
 celebrated Southampton Water. They 
 rise in undulating and varied slopes, 
 
Suffolk. Boiife 1. — The Onvcll — Woolversfone Hall. 
 
 109 
 
 covered with rich woods and lawns, 
 from among whicli appear hand- 
 some villas and eh. towers. From 
 the bends in its course the river is 
 land-locked, and, when the tide is 
 up, resembles a line inland lake with 
 the addition of much shipping. 
 Such scenery depends greatly for 
 its best elfect on " sunshine and 
 shadow/' but on a favourable day 
 the voyage will leave a strong im- 
 pression. 
 
 The banks of the Orwell were the 
 favourite resort of Gainsborough, the 
 landscape painter, during his resi- 
 dence at Ipswich. The narrow lanes, 
 picturesque cottages, and sturdy pol- 
 lard oaks of this district, may be 
 easily recognised as tlie chosen ob- 
 jects of his pencil. 
 
 The chief points to l^e noticed in 
 descending the river are the Ostrich 
 Inn (rt.), a favourite place of resort 
 from Ipswich; (rt.) Stoke Pari: ( — 
 Burrell, Esq.) ; (rt.) Wherstead Ch., 
 chiefly Perp. but with some Norm, 
 portions ; perhaps the walls are 
 Norm. The ch. has been restored, 
 and contains some stained glass by 
 Holland and by Gibbs. The sculp- 
 tured font is modern by Williams, 
 and the pulpit by Aheloos of Lou- 
 vain, mucli of whose work may be 
 seen in Ely Cathedral. Wherstead 
 Lodge was once the residence of 
 William Scrope, author of ' Days of 
 Deer Stalking.' (rt.) i^resto?*, where 
 is a tall brick square Tudor tower of 
 G stages, with pinnacles and a stair- 
 case turret, erected probably by the 
 Latimers towards the end of the 
 iGth centmy. The principal apart- 
 ments are on the 5th story. 
 
 A lane near Freston Tower, lead- 
 ing to the Orwell, is known as 
 " Gainsborough's Lane ; " and there 
 is a place on the river side " where 
 he often sat to sketch on account of 
 the beauty of the landscape, its ex- 
 tensiveness and richness in variety, 
 both in the fore and back grounds. 
 It comprehended Bramford and other 
 distant villages on one side, and on 
 
 the other side of the river extended 
 toward Nactou, &c. Freston ale- 
 house must have been near, for it 
 seems he has introduced the Boot 
 sign-post in many of his pictures." 
 — (ConstaUe the Artist to Smith, the 
 hio'irapher of Nollekens, in Fulcher's 
 ' Life of Gainsborough.') 
 
 (rt.) Woolversfone Hall (John Ber- 
 ners, Esq.) built of Woolpit brick in 
 177G by William Berners, from whom 
 Berners-street in London derives its 
 name. The obelisk, surmounted by 
 a globe encircled by rays, was erected 
 in 1793, in memory of Charles Ber- 
 ners, and is a conspicuous object 
 from the river. The gardens at 
 Woolverstone are very beautiful, and 
 are shown during the absence of the 
 family. Nearly opposite (1.) are Or- 
 icell Park (G. Tomline, Esq.), and 
 Broke Hall (Sir B. V. Broke, Bart.% 
 long the seat of Sir P. B. V. Broke, a 
 native of Nacton in Suffolk, captain 
 of the ' Shannon' and capturer of 
 the ' Chesapeake ' in siglit of Boston 
 hi 1813. Sir Philip Broke died at 
 Broke Hall in 1810. (This is a dis- 
 trict fertile in naval heroes. Thomas 
 Cavendish, one of the admirals who 
 engaged the Armada, and the first 
 Englishman who sailed round the 
 globe, was born at Grimston Hall 
 near Trimley St. Martin's, close by, 
 but the house is swept away; and 
 Admiral Yernon resided at Orwell 
 Park, and died there in 1757.) 
 
 In the grounds of Orwell Park is 
 a very large evergreen oak, of great 
 beauty. From the campanile Har- 
 wich is visible — and a va.'it tract of 
 country across the Orwell, and in an 
 opposite direction, towards Wood- 
 ford. The house (only shown by spe- 
 cial permission) contains a fine and 
 important collection of pictures, — 
 among which are three uf the best 
 Murillos in this country. In the 
 entrance-hall are bu^ts of Lord Bacon 
 and Sir Walter Scott, — and in other 
 apartments, busts of Pitt, Fox, the 
 Duke of Wellington, and Byron. Of 
 
lip 
 
 Moute 1. — Woolverstone Hall: Painiinr/s. Sect. II. 
 
 the inctures^ the most noteworthy 
 are, — Murillo, Christ healing the 
 lame man at the pool of Bethesda — 
 one of the pictures executed by 
 Murillo for the Church of the Cari- 
 dad at Seville, bought from Marshal 
 Soult for GOOO/. "All things con- 
 sidered, I look upon this as iho finest 
 Blurillo in England." — Waagen. 
 Annibale Carracct: Christ and the 
 Magdalene in the Garden — one of 
 four pictures by the Carracci. for- 
 merly in tlie Giustiniani Gallery. 
 A. Van Os^acZe ; I Dancing peasants; 
 inscribed and dated, 1675. Titian: 
 Charles V., bust in armour — a mag- 
 nificent and early portrait. Giovanni 
 Pedrini: The Magdalen with a 
 scull. Artus Van der Neer: Moon- 
 light landscape. A. Cuyp : View of 
 Dort, morning. One of his best 
 pictures. Titian: Portrait, called 
 Francis I. P. Wouvermans: Land- 
 scape with dogs. Carlo Dolce : The 
 Magdalene. A. Ouyp: Cows near 
 water. " Of singular jDower of tone." 
 — Waagen. Jan Steen: A party of 
 seven persons. Teniers: A court- 
 yanl, with peasants. Vanuhjclc : 
 Portrait of himself. Murillo : St. 
 Augustine in Ecstacy, adoring a 
 burning heart. There is an inscrip- 
 tion, " Inquietum est cor menm, 
 donee perveniat ad te," From INlar- 
 shal Soult's collection. One of the 
 finest single figures of the master, 
 W. Van der Velde : A storm at sea. 
 Inscribed and dated 1G77. "This 
 is the finest storm piece I have 
 ever seen by the master." — Waagen. 
 Berghem: A large landscape. Mu- 
 rillo: St. Joseph with the infant 
 Christ. Very fine and striking. 
 S. Iloi^a: A rocky landscape. Gains- 
 horough: Portrait of Lady Cliatham. 
 Fruns Sniders: His own portrait, 
 witli wife and child. (Waagen assigns 
 this picture to Erasmus Quellyn, 
 Snider's fellow pupil with Itubens.) 
 Paniiini: The Colosseum, and the 
 Pyramid of Cestius. Stanfield: A 
 calm sea. liaffaelle (?) ; A repeti- 
 tion of the Fornarina in the Tribune 
 
 at Florence. Titian (J): Head of 
 Julius Cscsar in profile. Andrea del 
 Sarto : Portrait of Michael Angelo. 
 Holbein: Portrait of a woman, and 
 a small picture in a circle, dated 
 1527. A male portrait, also as- 
 signed to Holbein, is in Waagen's 
 judgment by Sir A. More. L. Back- 
 huysen: A storm, with ships; coast 
 in the foreground. "An admirable 
 and large picture of his best time." 
 — Waagen. 
 
 Landguard Fort (see Essex, Rte. 
 7) is the next point to be noticed, 
 as the steamer makes towards Har- 
 wich pier. 
 
 pn Erwarton Cli., on the Suffolk 
 bank of the Stour, opposite Harwicli 
 (it is about 2 m. from Shotley, seen 1. 
 shortly before the junction of the 
 Orwell with the Stour) are 3 fine 
 Dec. monuments — the earliest for Sir 
 Bartholomew Davillers, temp. Ed- 
 ward I. The efiSgy is cross-legged. 
 The next, with effigies and a very 
 elaborate canopy, is for another Sir 
 Bartholomew Davillers and his wife, 
 temp. Edward III. ( ? ) The third 
 is for Isabel, daughter of the last Sir 
 Bartholomew. These effigies are said 
 to have been removed from an earlier 
 Ch. Tlie present building (which 
 has been restored) is late Perp, Er- 
 warton Hall, now a farm, is Eliza- 
 bethan, with a Jacobean gateway. 
 
 During the restoration of Holhroolc 
 Ch., not far from Erwarton, a small 
 effigy in an arched recess in the N, 
 wall of the chancel was displaced, 
 and under it was found a cavity 
 containing fragments of a smnll 
 covered vessel of brnss, — probably 
 once holding the heart of the per- 
 son whose effigy was placed above 
 it. The recess and a doorway ad- 
 joining are E. Eng. The manor 
 was held by a family named from 
 the place in the 13th and l-±th 
 centys.] 
 
 (h.) N. of Landguard, on the tongue 
 of land between the Orwell and De- 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boiite 1. — Nacton Heath — Felixstowe. 
 
 Ill 
 
 ben, stands the pleasant village of 
 Felixstoive, frequented in summer by 
 a few visitors for sea-bathing. The 
 best way of reaching Felixstowe is 
 by coach from Ipswich (12 m. ; a 
 coach runs daily during the summer). 
 The steamers between Ipswich and 
 Harwich will land passengers at 
 Walton Ferry, whence the distance 
 to Felixstowe is 1| m. (No carriage 
 is to be had, however). 
 
 The road between Ipswich and 
 Felixstowe passes over Nacton 
 Heath, where are some barrows 
 called the "seven hills," and said 
 to mark the site of a battle with the 
 Northmen. (This is the local tradi- 
 tion; but the heaths which stretch 
 across the peninsula between the 
 Orwell and the Deben, from Nacton 
 by Foxhall to Martlesham, are dotted 
 wath barrows and lined with dykes, 
 which probably belong to an earlier 
 period than the Saxon or Danish 
 conquests of E. Anglia, Somewhere 
 in this neighbourhood, however, was 
 fought (May, 1010) the battle of 
 Ringmere (the jjlace so called has 
 not been identified) between the 
 Danes and Ulfcytel, who command- 
 ed the whole force of E. Anglia. The 
 battle was lost through the treachery 
 of Thurcytel, a Thegn of Danish 
 descent, and many of the noblest 
 English fell. — See Freeman's ' Norm. 
 Conquest,' i. 378). Nearer Felix- 
 stowe are the Churches of Tnmley 
 St. Mary and Trimley St Martin, 
 both in the same churchyard. Trim- 
 ley St. Mary is a rather interesting 
 Dec. ch., said to have been built by 
 Thomas of Brotherton, son of Edward 
 I. In the parish of Trimley St. 
 Martin was Grimstone Hall, the 
 home, in the reign of Elizabeth, of 
 Cavendish the circumnavigator. In 
 Walton Ch. the lower part of the 
 rood screen remains. Walton is said 
 to owe its name to a Eoman defen- 
 sive work of some importance, which 
 has within the last 80 years been 
 entirely swallowed by the sea. 
 Felixstoive, signifies the " stowe" or 
 
 station of St. Felix, a liurgundiau 
 monk brought into E. Anglia by 
 the King 'Sigeberht, early "in the 
 7th centy., and consecrated by Abp. 
 Honorius to the E. Anglian see 
 about the year 630. {See Dunwich, 
 Rte. 5). He may have built the 
 first ch. here. The existing Ch., 
 which has E. Eng. portions, is dedi- 
 cated to SS. Peter and Paul. At- 
 tempts are being made (1870) to 
 restore it. In the ch.-yd, is the ela- 
 borate tomb of Sir John Spencer 
 Login, d. 1863. The inscription 
 partly runs : — " This monument was 
 erected by his affectionate friend 
 and grateful ward, the Maharajah 
 Dhuleep Singh, in grateful remem- 
 brance of the tender care and solici- 
 tude with which Sir John liOgin 
 watched over his early years, train- 
 ing him up in the pure and simple 
 faith of our Lord Jesus Christ." Some 
 fragments of a large building known 
 as the '• Old Hall " remain in the 
 parish. It was in it that Edward 
 III. remained for some time before 
 sailing from Harwich for Sluys. 
 (See Essex, Ete. 7;. Felixstowe, or 
 rather the neighboming Walton, was 
 a favourite landing-place from Flan- 
 ders. In 1173, during the struggle 
 lietween Henry II. and his sons, the 
 Earl of Leicester with his " host " of 
 Flemings landed here, and passed 
 on to Framlingham Castle (Ete. 5). 
 They were afterwards defeated at 
 Fornham St. Genevieve (Ete. 3). 
 
 On the clifi:s between Felixstowe 
 and the Deben, Eoman coins and 
 pottery are found. 
 
 The Eed Crag formation at Felix- 
 stowe abounds in roimded or shape- 
 less fossil bodies, which have been 
 ascertained, from anatomical com- 
 parison and microscopic examination, 
 to be remains of teeth and bones of 
 whales and other animals, mixed 
 witli so-called coprolites. These re- 
 mains contain 56 per cent, of phos- 
 phate of lime, and they are in conse- 
 quence eagerly sought after, to be 
 converted into superphosphate of lime 
 
112 
 
 Bmife 2. — Bentley Junction to Hadleigh. Sect. IT. 
 
 for fin agricultural manure. Tlic 
 manufacture consists simply in grind- 
 ing the bones and applying sulpliuric 
 acid. JMany thousand tons have been 
 extracted, and the profits resulting 
 from the discovery are said to amount 
 to 7000Z. or 10,U0UL per annum. 
 
 " This vast accumulation of mineral 
 wealth, which, but a few years ago, 
 lay unsuspected on our shores, is 
 supposed to be due to the action of 
 life in past ages, and, in a great pro- 
 portion, to the broken and petrified 
 skeletons of the whales that lived 
 and died generation after generation 
 in the seas that, dming the earlier 
 periods of geology, rolled over what 
 now forms the E. coast of England." 
 — Oioen. 
 
 (c.) The gardens of Skruhland 
 Park (Sir George Broke Middleton, 
 Bart.) are shown on Fridays, but 
 only by written application. Shrub- 
 land is 6 m. from Ipswich, by an 
 uninteresting road. The gardens 
 well deserve their great reputation. 
 There are Go acres of dressed ground, 
 admirably varied. The house is 
 Italian, partly after Sir 0. Barry's 
 designs, with a broad terrace in front, 
 from which a succession of stately 
 "escaliers" descend to the lower 
 ground. There is a fountain at the 
 base. A broad green walk, bordered 
 with Arbor Yitse and Irish yews runs 
 through the centre of the grounds, 
 and ascends a steep hill to tlie deer 
 park (about 400 acres in extent). On 
 a level with the upper terrace and 
 the house are some grand old Spanish 
 chesnuts, the largest 42 ft. in cir- 
 cumference at tlie base. The distant 
 views are not extensive, but the fore- 
 ground trees and tlie home scenes 
 have been thoroughly well grouped 
 and managed. The house (which 
 contains no pictures) is not shown. 
 
 Shortly before reaching Shrubland 
 from Ipswich, a road turns rt. to 
 
 Barham (1 m.) where, in the 
 vicarage, Kirby the entomologist 
 lived for more than half a century, 
 
 and died in 1850. He was born at 
 AVitnesham in 1759, became curate 
 of Barliam in 1782, and in 1797 was 
 appointed to tlie living. The vicar- 
 age is pleasant and cheerful, with 
 some fine elms in the garden. The 
 ch. has little inteiest. The neigh- 
 bouring country is undulating and 
 broken, abounding in sequestered 
 nooks and shady lanes; and the 
 soil, passing through changes of 
 gravel, sand, chalk and clay, aifords 
 excellent and various ground for 
 flowers and for insects. Of this due 
 advantage was taken by the veteran 
 entomologist, 'who, like Eay before 
 him, delighted in " tracing the 
 finger of God throughout animated 
 nature." — (See the ' Life of the Rev. 
 W. Kirby/ by J. Freeman, London, 
 1852). 
 
 ROUTE 2. 
 
 BENTLEY JUNCTION TO HADLEIGH. 
 {Branch railicay). 
 
 From Bentley the line passes to 
 2^ m. Capel Stat. (The Church is 
 Dec. (chancel) and Perp. (nave and 
 tower), but of no very high interest.) 
 ^ m. rt. is Little Wenham. *The 
 Hall, a square building of brick and 
 flint, one of the earliest specuneus of 
 domestic architecture remaining in 
 
Suffolk. • Boute 2. — Little Wenham — Hadleigk 
 
 this country, is picturesque and curi- 
 ous, and well deserves a visit. Parts of 
 it date from about 1260, in the reign 
 of Henry III. It is oblong in plan, 
 with a tower at one end, and consists 
 of 4 rooms and a chapel. The lower 
 rooms are vaulted. The c'hapel and 
 hall are in the upper story ; and 
 above again is a vaulted chamber, 
 which alone has a fireplace, and is 
 reached by a narrow spiral stair. 
 Observe the fenestrals or window- 
 blinds, to which, when glass was 
 scarce, our ancestors liad recourse for 
 protection against the weather. The 
 original door is walled up. As an 
 early example of the use of brick, 
 which had been disused in England 
 after the time of the Romans, this 
 hall is remarkable. The bricks here 
 are probably Flemish, or are at any 
 rate of Flemish form. Want of stone 
 in the Eastern Coimties led to a re- 
 newed use of brick, — at first of Eo- 
 man forms, as, perhaps (but very 
 doubtfully), at Colchester; then of 
 Flemish, as here. The manor of 
 Little Wenham, temp. Henry III., 
 belonged to Petronilla de Holbroke ; 
 in the reign of Henry VIU. it was 
 the property of the Brews family. 
 Careful plans, elevations, and details 
 of the Hall will be found in the first 
 vol. (by Hudson Turner) of Parker's 
 * Domestic Architecture in England.' 
 Little Wenliam Church is E. Eng., 
 of the same date evidently as the hall, 
 and with very similar work. The 
 East window is good E. Eng. Great 
 Wenham Ch., 1 m. 8.E., is also E. 
 Eng. 
 
 4 m. Baydon Stat. The Church 
 here is Early Dec. and good. The 
 window tracery deserves notice ; and 
 the low, single-light side window in 
 each of the chancel walls. These 
 have transomes, and the lower light 
 is closed by a shutter. 
 
 7f m. Hadleigh Stat. The town 
 of Hadleigh (Pop. 3606) was one of 
 the ancient centres of the woollen 
 
 trade in Suffolk; first introduced 
 from Flanders, and greatly patronized 
 by Edward III. Much cloth was 
 made here and in the neighbour- 
 hood ; and the villages of Kersey, (3 
 m., where is a good late Dec. church) 
 and Lindsey (4 m. N.) have, it is 
 said, respectively given their names 
 to the fabrics knowoi as " kersies," 
 and " lindsey-woolsey." But the 
 Suflblk trade declined much during 
 the civil war; and in the last cen- 
 tury it succumbed entkely under 
 the greater advantages possessed by 
 the North of England. Hadleigh 
 Churchy which has been called the 
 largest in Suffolk, is exceeded in 
 size by many others, but is a fine 
 building, chiefly Perp., with some 
 Dec. and E. Eng. portions. The 
 tower is E. Eng., the lead-covered 
 spire Dec. The original S. doors 
 remain, and are worth notice. In 
 the S. aisle is a tomb, certainly Dec, 
 which is traditionally said to be that 
 of G uthrun the Dane — the oiof)onent 
 and the godson of Alfred, and the 
 ruler of the "Danelagh" after the 
 boundaries had been settled in 880. 
 According to Asser, Guthrun died 
 in 890, at "Hcadleaga," then a 
 "villa regia." The tomb may liave 
 been a cenotaph erected in the 14th 
 century — though some Nui-emberg 
 coins and plain tiles found within it, 
 render even that unlikely. There 
 are some brasses in the church — of 
 little interest— and the matrix of a 
 curious one in the S. aisle, repre- 
 senting a man's hand and a serpent. 
 It is said to commemorate one Henry 
 Mole, who was bitten by a viper, and 
 died. A small framed brass (the 
 reverse shows it was j)art of a finely 
 engraved Flemish brass) bears some 
 verses to the memoiy of Eowland 
 Tayler, one of the best remembered 
 of the Marian martyrs, and long 
 "Parson" of Hadleigh. He was 
 burnt on Aldham Common, f m. 
 S.E. of the town ; wliere a rough 
 stone remains with the inscription, 
 "1555. D. Tayler in defending 
 
114 
 
 Boute 2. — Hadleigh — Stohe-ly-Nayland. Sect. II, 
 
 that was good, at this plas loft his 
 blode." Adjoining is another memo- 
 rial erected in 1818, with some 
 verses in honour of Taylor by the 
 then rector, Dr. Drummond. The 
 best, and a very touching, account 
 of Tayler's martyrdom will be found 
 in Foxe, and may perhaps be accepted 
 as sufficiently authentic. 
 
 Adjoining the ch.-yard is the so- 
 called Rectory Toiver. built of brick 
 by William Pykenham, Rector, — 
 1495. It is in fact a gate-house, 
 flanked by hexagonal turrets. Sun 
 Court, near Hadleigh bridge, is a 
 house apparently of the 16th centy. 
 In High-street a house called "the 
 Mayors," with Tudor portions, and 
 some figures in " pargetting " in a 
 court at the back, is worth notice. 
 The Guildhall is of the 15th centy. 
 
 Hadleigh has been fortunate in 
 its rectors. Besides Rowland Tayler, 
 it can reckon — Thomas Rotherham, 
 Archbp. of York, died 1500 ; Nicholas 
 Shaxton, Bp. of Salisbury, died 
 1556 ; John Overall, Bp. successively 
 of Lichfield and Norwich, died 1619 : 
 John Stell, Bp. of Bath and Wells, 
 died 1607, the author, in his youth, 
 of ' Gammer Gurton's Needle,' the 
 first true English play (represented 
 in Christ's Coll., Cambridge, circ. 
 1565) with its well known drinking 
 song — 
 
 •' I love no rost, but a nut browne toste, 
 
 And a crab laid in the fyre, 
 A litle breade shall do me stead, 
 
 Much breade 1 not desyre ; 
 No frost nor snow, nor winde I trow 
 
 Can hurte me if I wolde, 
 1 am so wrapt and throwly lapt 
 
 Of joly good ale and olde." 
 
 Thomas Goad, who was present in 
 1619 at the Synod of Dort ; Richard 
 Smalbroke, B]\ successively of St. 
 David's and Lichfield, died 1749; 
 and — last not least — Hugh James 
 Rose. It was in June 1833 that Mr. 
 Palmer, Hurrell Froude, and Arthur 
 Percival, visited Mr. Rose at Had- 
 leigh, and tliere determined on lie- 
 ginning the far-famed 'Tracts for 
 the Times.' 
 
 The history of Hadleigh has been 
 treated at great length by the Rev. 
 H. Pigot. (Seo' Trans, of Suffolk 
 Archa3ol. Inst.,' vol. iii.). 
 
 [61 m. S. of Hadleigh is Stolce-hy- 
 Nayland, on a hill about 1 m. from 
 the Stour, where is " a large Church 
 of Perp. character, with a fine tower 
 and some good windows." The 
 tower, one of the finest in the county, 
 deserves especial notice. The W. 
 doorway is very rich, and the panel- 
 ling of plinth and battlement excel- 
 lent and characteristic. The font is 
 very good ; and in one of the chancel 
 chapels, enclosed by screen work, are 
 monuments for the two wives of John 
 Howard, D. of Norfolk, who fell at 
 Bosworth. Weston Earl of Port* 
 land was Baron Weston of Nayland ; 
 and Radulph A gas the surveyor, to 
 whom we owe the earliest map of 
 London, was long a resident here. 
 Constable, writing con amore of his 
 native valley, thus describes this 
 place: — " Stoke Nayland, though by 
 no means one of the largest, certainly 
 ranks with the great churches [of 
 the Eastern counties]. The length 
 of the nave, with its continuous line 
 of embattled parapet and its finely 
 proportioned chancel, may challenge 
 the admiration of the architect, as 
 well as its majestic tower, which 
 from its commanding height may be 
 said to impart a portion of its own 
 dignity to the surrounding country. 
 In the church are many interesting 
 monuments ; and here, as well as at 
 Nayland, are many of the tombstones 
 of the clothiers; being mostly laid 
 in the pavement, they are much de- 
 faced, but are known to belong to 
 them by the small brasses still re- 
 maining." (See 'Life,' by Leslie, 
 R.A.) None of the iDrasses in this 
 church, however, are in fact those of 
 clothiers. They are numerous, and 
 of considerable interest, the prmcipal 
 being an unknown lady in mantle, 
 circ. 1400 ; Sir Wm. Tendring, 1408 
 (very good) ; Katherine, wife of 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boute S.—Sudhury to Thetford. 
 
 115 
 
 John Howard, Duke of Norfolk, 1452 ; 
 and Dorothy, wife of Sir Francis 
 Mannock, died 1G32. 
 
 Between Stoke-by-Nayland and 
 Shelly stands Giffard's Hall, a fine 
 old residence of the a,2;e of Henry 
 VIII. (1538), of red brick, the monld- 
 iugs and chimneys fashioned in terra 
 cotta. It is a quadrangle. The 
 gatehouse, with polygonal flanking 
 towers, is still inhabited. 
 
 At Boxford Church (chiefly Perp. 
 and fine), 3 m. S.W. of Hadleigh, is 
 a very rich south porch, elaborately 
 panelled ; and, on the north side, an 
 interesting porch of Dec. woodwork. 
 It is of two bays, with open sides 
 traceried. 
 
 At Groton, 4 m. S.W. of Hadleigh, 
 lived John Winthrop, the first 
 Governor of New England. He 
 lived here till he removed to New 
 England in 1630. The Hon. Eobert 
 Winthrop, President of the Massa- 
 chusetts Historical Society, is his 
 lineal descendant.] 
 
 ROUTE 3. 
 
 SUDBURY TO THETFORD BY BURY 
 ST. EDMUND'S. 
 
 (Branch line of Great Eastern Bail- 
 way from Sudbury to Bury. TJience 
 by road.) 
 
 The railway follows the winding 
 valley of the Stoui- nearly as far as 
 
 3 m. Long Melford (^Inns : Black, 
 and \\aiite Bull), so called from 
 being about a mile in length. This 
 is a pleasing village of neat cottages 
 and some new houses, partly arranged 
 on one side of a green, the other side 
 being screened by the fine trees of 
 the Hall. It was in the 15th centy. 
 the seat of a flourishing clotliing 
 trade, and well deserves a visit for 
 the sake of its large and beautiful 
 *Ch. of the Holy Trinity, 152 ft. long, 
 41 ft. high; chiefly Perp., of very 
 fine character (date 1450 to 1480 
 and 1490). It is entirely composed 
 of striped flint and white stone, ex- 
 cept the W. tower, which is mo- 
 dern, and of brick (1725). (The 
 restoration of the ch. was begun 
 in 1851, and was completed, under 
 Mr.Woodyer, in 1869. The cost was 
 2500Z., exclusive of very large out- 
 lay on the chancel and chantries by 
 Sir- W. Parker, the Eev. C. J. Martyn 
 (the patron) and others). Around 
 and about the building, under the 
 battlements, and over the windows, 
 run a series of curious inscriptions, 
 formed chiefly of inserted flints, but 
 much defaced, recording the names 
 of various benefactors — Cloptons of 
 Kentwell Hall (see post) chiefly — 
 Dents, Martins, Pyes, Morylls, and 
 others, most of them wealthy 
 clothiers, who contributed to the 
 fabric — some an arch and pillars, 
 others 5 or 6 arches, others glazing 
 of the windows. The interior is very 
 noble. A lofty and nearly con- 
 tinuous clerestory runs round it, sup- 
 ported by elegant light piers, with 
 enriched spandrels. The N. and S. 
 aisles have each a low chapel an- 
 nexed to the east end, and ranging 
 with the east end of the choir. 
 Observe in the chancel, rt. of altar, 
 the canopied marble tomb of Sir 
 Wm. Cordell, Speaker of the House 
 of Commons in the reign of Mary, 
 with his efiigy and 4 statuettes in 
 white marble, representing Faith, 
 Peace, Charity, and Justice (see for 
 Sir W. Cordell, post, Melford Hall). 
 
116 
 
 Botde S.-^Long Melford Ghurcli. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 On the N. side of the cliancel is the 
 Clopton Chapel, erected by John 
 Cloi^ton, of Kentwell, 1497, whose 
 table tomb stands between it and 
 the chancel, under a canopy, so 
 arranged tliat the Easter Sepulchre 
 might be raised upon it. The sedilia, 
 the niche-\York (there are 12 niches 
 above the tomb, once tilled with 
 statues of the Apostles\ and the flat 
 oaken roof with red beams and blue 
 panels set with gold stars, in this 
 small chapel, should all be noticed. 
 In the church are monumental effigies 
 of Wm. Clopton, died 1446; and 
 John (son of Wm. Clopton and 
 Alice d'Arcy) who built the E. 
 chapel. There are also brasses for 
 two ladies of the Clopton family (c. 
 1430) : Thomas Clopton (?) 1420 : 
 two brasses for Cloi^ton ladies (c. 
 1480) ; and Francis Clox)ton, in 
 armour (1477). The more ancient 
 of these brasses were probably re- 
 moved from an earlier church. The 
 fine wooden roof and the carved 
 open screen - work, the pew with 
 carved panels, the stoup and double 
 squint, near tlie N. door, and a 
 curious bas-relief of the Offering of 
 the Wise Men, in alabaster, dis- 
 covered below the pavement, and now 
 let into the wall of the N. aisle, all 
 deserve examination. Sir S. Dewes, 
 writing in 162G, says that in Long 
 Melford Ch. there " are about three- 
 score portraitures ancient set up, of 
 men and women, with their coat 
 armours on most of them, in stone, 
 brass, or glass." These (besides 
 many more which had been de- 
 stroyed when Sir S. Dewes wrote) 
 were placed here by John Clopton, 
 whose monumental chapel has just 
 been noticed ; and were portraits of 
 his connections by blood, marriage, 
 or politics. He was an ardent Lan- 
 castrian, and after many personal 
 troubles, lived to see *his party 
 dominant. Some of these portraits 
 remain ; and although one cannot 
 but feel that these " historial " win- 
 dows redounded somewhat too much 
 
 to the glory of the Cloptons, they 
 must have been, when perfect, of 
 very high interest. The best have 
 been collected into the great East 
 window. Among tliese is the por- 
 trait of Sir William Howard, " Chetf 
 Justis of England," — from whom all 
 the Howards of the jjresent day are 
 descended. (It forms the frontis- 
 piece to the privately printed * Me- 
 morials of the Howards,' edited by 
 Mr. Howard of Corby). Other frag- 
 ments of stained glass have been 
 placed in this window, including in 
 the upper lights a series of small 
 figures illustrating the history of St. 
 Osyth. (See Essex, Rte. 6 1. In other 
 windows of the chancel are more por- 
 traits and fragments. The effect of 
 this large, lantern-like chm-ch, with 
 its windows entirely filled with stain- 
 ed glass, must have been superb. 
 
 At the E. end of the church, but 
 quite distinct from it, is the Lady 
 Chapel, an elegant Perp. structure of 
 flint and ashlar in chequers, rather 
 later than the ch., built by the 
 Cloptons, 1496. In form it is an 
 oblong square, with an aisle running 
 quite round it : the centre vaulted ; 
 a niche at each of the angles. It is 
 now used as a school. It is not known 
 that any special relic was reverenced 
 in this chapel ; but the arrangement, 
 with the encircling aisle, renders it 
 probable that it was built with some 
 such object. Compare the plan of 
 the chapel of the Red Mount at Lynn 
 (Norfolk, Rte. 7). 
 
 On the S. side of the churchyard 
 stands the Hospital, founded by Sir 
 Wm. Cordell for 12 men and 2 
 women. It is of brick. The Hos- 
 pital enjoys at present a revenue of 
 lOOOZ. a year. 
 
 Melford Hall, on the E. side of the 
 Green, formerly belonging to the 
 Savages, a branch of the Rivers 
 family, is an Elizabethan house, 
 moated and surrounded by high 
 walls, now the seat of Sir William 
 Parker, Bt. The Abbot of Bury, irj 
 
Suffolk. Boute 3. — Kentwell and Boxted EcdU. 
 
 117 
 
 whose gift was the living of Melford, 
 had a summer residence on this spot, 
 wliicli was granted after tlie Dissolu- 
 tion to Sir Wm. Cordell, who repre- 
 sented Sufiblk in the last Parliament 
 of Queen Mary (1558), and was 
 chosen its Speaker. In 1578 he 
 entertained Elizabeth here, and by 
 his " sumptuous feasting and ban- 
 kets " " did light such a candle to 
 the rest of the shire " tliat her 
 Majesty, with her " traine," returned 
 greatly "content." Sir Wm. Cor- 
 dell was the patron of Christopher 
 Saxton, author of the first maps of 
 English counties ; and Lambarde of 
 Kent dedicated his ' Archaionomia ' 
 to him. Melford Hall afterwards 
 became the residence of Lord Savage ; 
 and is described by Howell the 
 " letter writer," who lived here as 
 tutor, as " as virtuous and regular a 
 house as any in the land both for 
 oiconomicall government and the 
 choice company. . . . Here one 
 shall see no dog, nor cat, nor cage, 
 to cause any nastiness within the 
 body of the house. . . . For 
 gardening and costly choice flowers, 
 for ponds, for stately large walks 
 green and gravelly, . . . there 
 are few the like in England. Here 
 you have your Bon Christian pear 
 and Bergamot in perfection : your 
 IMuscatel grapes in such plenty that 
 there are some bottles of wine sent 
 eveiy j'ear to the King." 
 
 In one of the rooms are some por- 
 traits of the Cordell family on panel, 
 including that of the Speaker, Sir 
 Willianu 
 
 Kentwell Hall (Captain E. S. 
 Bencej lies 1. of the village. It is 
 a nearly untouched Elizabethan 
 house, in the form of an E, display- 
 ing a very picturesque arrangement 
 of gables and chimneys, and sur- 
 rounded by a moat, over which are 
 two bridges. The house was built 
 by the last but one of the Cloptons, 
 and is approached by a noble avenue 
 of lime trees nearly a mile in length. 
 
 Tlio Cloptons became possessed of 
 the manor in the 14th centy. The 
 male line expired in 1618 ; but the 
 Clopton heiress married the well 
 known antiquary Sir Simonds 
 D'Ewes. Kentwell has since passed 
 through many different hands. 
 
 [2 m. E. from Melford stood Acton 
 Place, a grand edifice, built in the 
 reign of William III., by Eobert 
 Jennens, but now nearly all pulled 
 down. It has descended with the 
 other Jennens estates to Earl Howe. 
 
 In Acton Ch., otherwise of no great 
 interest, are two good brasses ; one 
 of Sir Eobert de Bures, cross-legged, 
 1302 (and well engraved in Waller 
 — it is one of the earliest military 
 brasses extant (the earliest is that of 
 Sir John D'Aubernoun, 1277, in 
 Stoke D'Abernon Ch., Surrey), and 
 all the details, which are rich and 
 well executed, deserve attention), — 
 the other of Alice de Bryan, daughter 
 of another Sir Eobert de Bures, cii'C. 
 1430. 
 
 2 m. E. of Acton is the fine Perp, 
 Ch. of Great Walding field, with 
 lofty nave, very good S. porch, and a 
 W. tower, the portal of which retains 
 its original doors, with excellent 
 panelling. 
 
 Boxted Hall (J. G. W. Polcv, 
 
 Esq.\ 4J m. N.W. of Long Melford, 
 has been the seat of the Poley family 
 since the reign of Henry IV. The 
 present house was built by Wm. 
 Polej^ tHjmp. Elizabeth. It is pic- 
 turesly situated, and is moated, the 
 ancient Tudor biidge still remain- 
 ing. The hall is wainscoted, and 
 contains many family pictures of 
 interest. Near the staircase is the 
 portrait of a grey charger, which, 
 says tradition, " swam across from 
 Flanders," and belonged to Sir John 
 Poley of Wrongey (Wermegay), in 
 Norfolk. This Sir John, who served 
 under Hen. IV. of France, and 
 Christian of Denmark, and after- 
 wards under Elizabeth and James 
 
118 
 
 JRoiite 3. — LavenJiam — ClielsicortJi. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 I., was a soldier of considerable repu- 
 tation. He is buried iu Boxton Ch., 
 where his monument, with that of liis 
 wife — both standing figures in niches 
 ■ — ^deserves notice. lie died in 1G88. 
 From the right ear of Sir John 
 Foley's figure hangs a gold frog. 
 This appears also iu his picture at 
 the Hall. It was one of the devices 
 belonging to the Danish order of the 
 Elephant. The Ch. (which architec- 
 turally is of little interest) also con- 
 tains a monument, with wooden effi- 
 gies, of William Foley (died 1587), 
 the builder of the hall, and his wife.] 
 
 Through a pleasant and wooded, 
 but level country, the railway pro- 
 ceeds to 4^ m. Lavenham., or Lane- 
 ham (Stat.), jjop. 1823 (no Inn, se- 
 veral public-houses), once a much 
 more considerable place, now a village 
 of mean houses, standing on liigh 
 ground, by the Bret, a tributary of 
 the Stom\ There are remains of 
 pargetting and of carved brackets in 
 many of the houses ; indications of 
 the former importance of Lavenham, 
 which was famous during the loth 
 and IGth centuries for its blue woollen 
 cloths. Thomas Spring, " the rich 
 clothier of Lavenham," vied with the 
 De Veres in opulence, and his de- 
 scendants became allied in marriage 
 Avith that noble stock. The parish 
 *Ch. of St. Peter and St. Paul, 
 rendered conspicuous by its elevated 
 site, is an unusually grand and noble 
 church (156 feet long), with a lofty 
 clerestory, and a simple and massive 
 tower (141 feet high), the finest in 
 the county, with very bold buttresses. 
 " The character is late Ferp., and the 
 battlements and some other portions 
 much enriched." — Elchnan. On the 
 S. porch are carved the boar and the 
 star, or mullet, bearings of the De 
 Veres, lords of the manor from the 
 Contpiest, and placed hero in honour 
 of John, 14th Earl of Oxford, who 
 is supposed to have erected the 
 church, in conjunction with members 
 of the family of Spring, between 
 
 1480 and 1530. Ohs., on the out- 
 side, the unrivalled parapet, partly 
 pierced ; the panelled buttresses ; 
 and within, the lofty proportions and 
 rich ornaments of the nave, 94 feet 
 long and 68 wide : its fine timber 
 roof, with the arms of the De Veres ; 
 the Spring and Braimch Chapels, 
 built about the beginning of the 16th 
 centy. : the elaborately carved j^eif? 
 of the Spring family, at the E. end of 
 the N. aisle (of late Ferp. work); the 
 De Vere jiew on the opposite side ; 
 the grotesque carvings of the stalls ; 
 the rood - screen, and the screens 
 which divide the chancel from the 
 side chajDels, which, both in design 
 and in variety of detail, are unusually 
 excellent ; and the brass of Allayne 
 Dister, clothier (1534). In the chan- 
 cel, which has a Dec. east window, 
 is an alabaster wall-tomb with kneel- 
 ing eflSgies of Henry CoiDinger, rec- 
 tor, who died 1622, and wife. There 
 is also a simple but ciirious small 
 brass in the vestry to Thos. Spring 
 (d. 1480), one of the clothiers, who 
 is supposed to have begun the re- 
 building of the church, which his son 
 comi^leted. The fine tower has been 
 left without its pinnacles. Komid 
 the top are shields with the arms of 
 Spring. In the market-place, where 
 markets have long ceased to be held, 
 is a stone cross and a carved wooden 
 porch. A house in Frentice -street 
 has some good Elizabethan ceilings ; 
 and one iu Water-stieet, of Ferp. 
 date, has a winding staircase formed 
 out of the solid brick-work. 
 
 [Through a rich, deepcorn country, 
 not unpleasant, and sometimes afford- 
 ing extensive views, the toiu-ist may 
 make his way from Lavenham to 
 Chelswortli (about 5 m. S.E.), where 
 is a Churcli of some interest. It is 
 for the most part Dec. (tower, chan- 
 cel, and aisles), with later additions. 
 The roof is good ; and in the N. 
 aisle is the fine monument of Sir 
 John de St. Fhilibert, lord of the 
 manor in 1359. The triangular 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boute 3. — Hitcham — Stanningfield. 
 
 119 
 
 canopy deserves special notice. The 
 font is Dec, ; and over the chancel 
 arch is a mural painting representing 
 the Last Judgment. This was dis- 
 covered in 1849. The ch. has been 
 restored ; and contains some modern 
 stained windows. 2| m. N. of Chcls- 
 worth, but about tlie same distance 
 as that place from the Lavcnham 
 stat., is Hifcliam, for many years the 
 rectory of the Eev. J. 8. Henslow, 
 Professor of Botany at Camln'idge. 
 Mr. Henslow's incessant and most 
 successful exertions for the improve- 
 ment of his pariah, and especially his 
 botanical lectures, with which he in- 
 formed the imder&tanding of his vil- 
 lage school, are duly recorded in Mr. 
 Jenyus' 'Memoir' of the Professor, 
 and very pleasantly in Mr. White's 
 ' Eastern England ' (ii. ch. 9). Mr. 
 Henslow died in 1861, and is buried 
 in the churchyard. The Ch. is Dec. 
 and Perp. ; and the double hammer- 
 beam nave roof is finej 
 
 rt. of the rly. lies Earl's Hall, and 
 at no great distance Coclifield Hall ; 
 once seats, the one of the long- 
 descended De Veres, and the other 
 of the Springs, the men of broadcloth 
 at Lavenham. 
 
 In Stanningfield Church, 1., is a 
 table tomb, with a canopy . which 
 deserves notice. It seems to be that 
 of Thomas Kokewode, who died 12th 
 Henry VIII. The cli. has a Dec. 
 chancel, with an enriched Norman 
 door. On a glazed tile near the S. 
 doorway is the figure of a horse-shoe, 
 said to be placed there in order to 
 2)rcvent witches from entering the 
 church. (This is perhaps an after- 
 thought : but horse-shoes are nailed 
 on the doors of some Devonsliire 
 churches, as at Haccombe, Sampford 
 Peverell, and elsewhere, which no 
 doubt were intended to act as 
 charms). Coldliam Hall, in this 
 parish, belonging to Sir Thomas 
 Rokewode Gage, was an ancient resi- 
 dence of the Ilokewodes. The pre- 
 sent house was built in 1574 by 
 
 Eobt. Rokewode, and is picturesque. 
 In the hall is hung a range of boots, 
 — a relic of the days of the civil war. 
 There are many family pictures ; a 
 portrait of Mary Lepell, Lady Her- 
 vey, painted by Drouet, and some 
 other jpictures of interest. Elizabeth 
 was entertained here by Edward 
 Eokewode, in 1578 ; but the Queen, 
 finding that he was a " Papist," after- 
 wards caused him to be imprisoned 
 and fined in return for his hospitality. 
 Ambrose Rokewode of Coldham was 
 implicated in the Gunpowder Plot, 
 and executed at Tyburn in 1605. 
 His son, Robert, was, nevertheless, 
 a faithful adherent to Charles I., and 
 lost two sons in the King's cause. 
 Bradfield Comhust, a short distance 
 beyond Stanningfield, is so named 
 from a grange belonging to the 
 Abbot of Bury, burnt (combusta) 
 here in 1327, during the struggle 
 between the townsmen of Bury and 
 the great monastery. (See post. 
 Bury). Bradfield Hall was the birth- 
 place of Arthur Young, the agricul- 
 turist, whose books and " tours " con- 
 tributed so decidedly to the improve- 
 ment of agriculture in this country. 
 He died in 1820, having been for 
 some time totally blind. Larch and 
 oak trees were planted by him in 
 great numbers round the hall, which 
 had belonged to his ancestors since 
 1620. The Church is Dec. with a 
 Norman font. Arthur Young is 
 buried in the churchyard. " A more 
 rural resting-place he could not have 
 desired. The scenery is quiet ; gentle 
 undulations sprinkled here and there 
 with copse and plantation, on which 
 farm succeeds to farm, great breadths 
 of grain for many a mile. . . . 
 Though it has some features in com- 
 mon with Norfolk, you will not fail 
 to note that St. Edmund's county is 
 more varied in surface and softer of 
 aspect than its neighbour beyond the 
 Waveney." — W. White. From the 
 tower of Bradfield St. Clare (1 m. 
 N.E.), it is said that 66 churches 
 may be numbered. 
 
no 
 
 Boute S.—Biir7j St. Edmund's : Histm-y. Sect. ll. 
 
 Beyond the Bradficlds, 
 
 Gj rn. WelnetJiam Stat, is soon 
 reached. The Churches of Great 
 and Little Welnetham are of little 
 interest. The rly. then passes rt. 
 Ruslihroolie Hall (see 2}ost, Exc. from 
 Bury) ; and speedily gains, 
 
 41 m. Bury St. Edmund's (Pop. 
 13,ol8). Inns. — Angel, nearly oppo- 
 site the abbey gate — very good. (It 
 stands on a range of vaulted cellars, 
 perhaps of the 12th cent.) Bell, in 
 the market place, good. Suffolk 
 Hotel. 
 
 The " bright little town of Bury 
 St. Edmund's," as Dickens has some- 
 where called it, is regarded by Suf- 
 folk jDeople, from its good air and 
 pleasant position, as the " Montpel- 
 lier of England." The " brightness " 
 and cheerfulness of Biuy were as 
 noticeable in the 16th cent., when 
 Leland visited it, — who declares that 
 " the sun hath not shone on a town 
 more delightfully situated on a gra- 
 dual and easy descent"— as at pre- 
 sent ; when Carlyle (' Past and Pre- 
 sent ') writes — 
 
 " The Burg, Bury, or ' Berry ' (or 
 burying-jDlace) as they call it of St. 
 Edmund is still a prosperous, brisk 
 town, with its clear brick liouses, 
 ancient clean streets, looking out 
 right pleasantly, from its hill-slope, 
 towards the rising sun ; and on the 
 eastern edge of it still runs, long, 
 black, and massive, a range of mo- 
 nastic ruins, into the wide internal 
 spaces of which, laid out, at present, 
 as a botanic garden, the stranger is 
 admitted on payment of one shil- 
 
 Img." 
 
 (It need hardly be said that the 
 "bury" has nothing to do with 
 the *' burying - place ^' of St. Ed- 
 mund, — but is the Anglo-Saxon 
 "byrig"= town, or enclosed place.) 
 
 The former importance of Bury 
 St. Edmund's was entirely owing to 
 its famous Abbey, the remains of 
 which are still of veiy great interest. 
 Before describing them it mil be 
 
 well to relate briefly the history of 
 St. Edmund and of his Monastery. 
 
 The site of Bury St. Edmund's is 
 first known as " Beodrics weorth " — 
 the " weorth " or homestead of Beo- 
 dric. Here Sigeberht, King of E. 
 Anglia is said (circ. a.d. G31) to have 
 founded a church and monastery in 
 honour of the Virgin. He became 
 himself a monk here; and it was 
 from this place that he was called 
 forth to fall in battle with tlie hea- 
 then Penda. Bcodrics-weorth is not 
 again mentioned until it became the 
 resting-place of St. Edmund. 
 
 Little more is known with cer- 
 tainty of St. Edmund, King of East 
 Anglia, than that he was defeated 
 and killed by the Danes about the 
 year 870. The 'Saxon Chronicle' 
 briefly records his fate. Later writers, 
 Abbo Floriacensis (circ. 985), and 
 Galfridus de Fontibus (circ. llfiO), 
 besides Lydgate the poet (who was 
 a monk of Bury) in the 15th cent., 
 have told much, for which they 
 must have been chiefly indebted to 
 local tradition. (Abbo, Abbot of 
 Eleury, died 1004, was in his youth 
 for two years at Eamsey, enjoyed 
 tlic " amica familiaritas " of the two 
 Abps. — Oswald, of the Northum- 
 brians, and Dunstan of Canterbury, 
 and dedicated his Life of St. Edmund 
 to Dunstan, from whom he says he 
 learnt much of the details. This 
 life, which is the most important, is 
 printed in Surius, and in JMigne's 
 ' Patrologia.') But almost all the de- 
 tails of these lives are legendary or 
 confused ; and it is hardly possible to 
 winnow the grains of truth from them. 
 According to Abbo, Edmund was born 
 at Nuremberg, — the son of Alkmund 
 and Siware, King and Queen of 
 "Old" Saxony. "Ofla, King of E. 
 Anglia, visited Nuremberg on his 
 way to Jerusalem, died on his way 
 back, and left his crown to Edmund. 
 Edmund accordingly set forth, and 
 landed at St. Edmund's Head, near 
 Hunstanton. (Sec for the local ti'a- 
 
SuFFOLl':. Route 3. — Bury St. Edmund's : History. 
 
 121 
 
 ditions there, Norfolk, Etes. 9, 12). 
 Thence he j^assed to Attleborough, 
 where he spent a year in learning 
 the psalter, and in other good works. 
 On Christmas Day, 856, he . was 
 crowned by Hnmbert, Bishop of 
 Elniham ; and shone during his short 
 reign, according to Lydgate and the 
 rest, as a very constellation of vir- 
 tues. In 869 occurred the great 
 storm of invasion during which the 
 Danes, breaking southward from the 
 Humber,. plundered and destroyed 
 all the great monasteries of the fens, 
 and took Thetford, one of the strongest 
 fastnesses of the E. Anglian King- 
 dom. Edmund retreated to Egles- 
 dene near Hoxne (see Rte. 9). 
 Thither the Danes pursued ; and 
 having taken the King, beat him 
 with " bats," bound him to a tree, 
 and made him a mark for their 
 arrows till his body, says Lydgate, 
 was " like a porcupine." (The ex- 
 pression is taken from Abbo, who 
 says the King v/as stuck with arrows, 
 " velut asper hericius, aut spinis hir- 
 tus carduus, in passione similis Se- 
 bastiano egregio martyri.") His head 
 was then stricken off, and flung 
 into a wood. Bishop Humbert was 
 also killed. After some time the 
 followers of Edmund returning to the 
 jjlace, discovered the King's body, 
 but could not find the head, until, 
 led by a cry of "here, here, here," 
 which they heard in the wood, they 
 saw it carefully guarded between 
 the paws of a wolf, who gave up his 
 treasure, and then retreated '' wuth 
 doleful mourning." (The severed 
 head of St. Edmund ; the head 
 guarded by a wolf; and the crown 
 with two arrows in saltire, which are 
 so frequently found in stained glass 
 or in sculptured stone not only at 
 Bury but throughout Xorfolk and 
 Suffolk, all refer to the martyrdom 
 and its legend.) Some time after 
 the head had been restored to the 
 body, it was found that they had be- 
 come firmly united, and that the only 
 mark of former severance was a scar- 
 \_E$sex, cfcc] 
 
 let line. A wooden chapel was erected 
 at Hoxne, in which the body re^ 
 mained for 33 years, still, as it was 
 asserted, perfect and incorrupt, until 
 about the year 903 it was brought 
 to Bedricesweorth, and placed (ap- 
 parently in St. Mary's church, which 
 Sigeberht had built) under the care 
 of a body of secular clergy. About 
 945, Edmund, son of Edward the 
 Elder, is said to have granted to 
 the college of seculars a charter 
 which gave them jurisdiction over 
 the town (byrig) and for a space of 
 one mile round it. In the course of the 
 long fight between the seculars and 
 the regulars, the former were declared 
 unfit guardians of so great a treasure 
 as St. Edmund's body ; and a Bene- 
 dictine named Ailwin was appointed 
 its protector. In 1010, "when the 
 Danes were plundering East Anglia, 
 Ailwin carried it for safety to Lon- 
 don, — where, as it passed through 
 Cripplegate the " lame were restored 
 to the use of their limbs." It was 
 brought back in 1013; resting on 
 its way, says tradition, in the church 
 of Greenstead (see Essex, Rte. 10.) 
 and at the manor of Stapleford, where 
 the lord was cured of a dangerous 
 sickness, and afterwards gave Staple- 
 ford to the monastery. In the fol- 
 lowing year died King Sweyne ; who 
 had demanded a heavy tribute from 
 Bury, and threatened destruction to 
 the church, town, and clergy, if it 
 were not paid. It seems to have 
 been refused ; and according to a 
 legend told by Florence, " Sweyne 
 w^as on his horse, at the head of his 
 army, seemingly on the point of 
 beginning his march from Gains- 
 borough to Bury. He then saw, 
 visible to his eyes only, the holy 
 King coming against him in full 
 harness, and with a spear in his 
 hand. " Help,' he cried, '• fellow- 
 soldiers, Saint Edmund is coming to 
 slay me." The Saint then ran him 
 through with his spear, and the 
 tyrant fell from his horse, and died 
 the same night in horrible torments." 
 
 G 
 
122 
 
 jRoiite 3. — Bury St. Edmund's : History. Sect. II. 
 
 — (Freeman's ' Norman Conquest,' i. 
 403). The reputation of St. Edmund 
 and the honours paid to him seem to 
 liave increased after Sweyne's medi- 
 tatedattack. Ulfkytel, who fell at As- 
 sandun in 1016 (see Essex, Kte. 5.) 
 gave much land to the Saint ; and 
 Cnut took Bury under his special 
 protection, introducing, witli the help 
 of Ailwin, who became bishop of 
 Elmham in 1020, Benedictines in- 
 stead of secular clergy. Cnut con- 
 firmed Edmund's charter. Ailwin 
 (1021) laid the foundations of a new 
 church which was 12 years in build- 
 ing ; and thus was established that 
 great monastery, which soon became 
 one of the wealthiest and noblest 
 in England. (Ailwin's church was 
 pulled dov.'n in the time of Baldwin, 
 the first Abbot after the Conquest. 
 The new church then erected, into 
 which the Saint's body was conveyed 
 in 1095, was that which, with large 
 additions, remained until the Disso- 
 lution.) The "Franchise," or juris- 
 diction, with all the royalties, over 
 eight Hundreds and a half, was 
 granted to the Abbey by the Con- 
 fessor ; in whose charter the place 
 is first called St. Edmund's Bury. In 
 Cnut's charter of 1020 it is still 
 Beodrice's Weorthe. 
 
 The Monastery was freed from 
 Episcopal authority, and the Abbot 
 was mitred. There were many con- 
 tests between the abbots and the 
 bishops ; and Herfast, who, in 1075, 
 removed the E. Anglian see from Elm- 
 ham to Thetford, proposed at first to 
 place it at Bury. Abbot Baldwin, how- 
 ever, went himself to Rome, and ap- 
 pealed to Pope Alexander II., who con- 
 firmed all the privileges of the house 
 (which would have been endangered 
 by the change), and gave the Abbot 
 a portable altar of porphyry, on 
 which mass might be celebrated, 
 even if the whole kingdom were 
 under an interdict. The fights be- 
 tween the abbey and the town were 
 moro serious. The rights of the 
 
 Abbot, who appointed the "Alder- 
 man " of the town, and the guardians 
 of the gates, were constantly resisted 
 by the townsmen. In 1327 they 
 attacked and plundered the Abbey ; 
 wounded the monks, and burnt 
 nearly all the monastic granges in 
 the neighbourhood of Bury. 32 
 parochial clergy were convicted of 
 abetting the insurgents. Women, as 
 usual on such occasions, were con- 
 spicuous in the fray ; and among 
 those accused appears the name of 
 " Alicia Lyckdishe.'' The Abbot was 
 at this time at Chevington ; and the 
 insurgents are said to have seized 
 him, " shaved " him, and to have ' 
 carried him first to London, and then 
 over seas to Diest in Brabant, where 
 he was kept a prisoner for some time. 
 He was at last rescued, and brought 
 back "with procession." In 1381, 
 when, following the lead of Wat 
 Tyler, the East Anglians rose under 
 "Jack Straw," (see JbZ/6c'«f/, Essex, 
 Rte. 1) the Abbey was again plun- 
 dered; and the Prior and Sir John 
 Lakynhythe, the keeper of the 
 barony, were beheaded. Walsing- 
 ham, the chief authority for the 
 events of this rising, specially 
 laments the fate of the Prior, " Sir 
 John of Cambridge," who had ren- 
 dered himself obnoxious to the " vil- 
 lains" of Bury on account of his 
 vigorous defence of the abbey rights. 
 He was a skilled musician, " Or- 
 pheum Thracem, Neronem Eo- 
 manum, Belgabred Britannum. vocis 
 dulcedine, pariter et cantus scientia • 
 superantem." He was killed at 
 Mildenhale, on the Norfolk border ; 
 and his body, stripped, lay in the 
 open field for 5 days, no one daring 
 to touch it " propter saevitiam rusti- 
 corum." ( WalsitKjliam, ' Hist. Angl.' 
 vol. ii. p. 2, ed. Riley). 
 
 The shrine of St. Edmund was 
 the chief religious centre of Eastern 
 England. Hence the number of 
 royal pilgrims who from time to 
 time visited it ; and the connection of 
 so many important events with Bury. 
 
Suffolk. Boute 3. — Bury St. EdmimcVs : History. 
 
 1^3 
 
 The Confessor walked barefoot for 
 the last mile into the town. Henry I, 
 l^aicl his vows before the shrine 
 after an escape from shipwreck in 
 1132. lu 1153, Eustace, son of the 
 Empress ]Matilda, who had been 
 plundering the country round (the 
 convent had refused him supplies) 
 died at Bury. In May, 1157, Henry 
 II. " wore his crown " at St. Ed- 
 mund's ; and a payment of 22s. is 
 recorded in the Pipe rolls, for con- 
 veying the King's crowns thither, — 
 " pro portandis coronis regis." In 
 1173, during the struggle between 
 Henry II. and his sons, the King's 
 army, which defeated the Earl of 
 Leicester and his Flemings at Forn- 
 ham St. Genevieve (see the present 
 route, post), was assembled at Bury ; 
 and the banner of St. Edmund was 
 carried to victory before them. In 1189 
 Richard I. visited Bury, as a pilgrim, 
 on St. Edmund's day (Nov. 20), be- 
 fore leaving England for Palestine ; 
 and was again here, within a few days 
 of his return, in 1191: ; when he offered 
 at the shrine the rich banner 'pre- 
 tiosumvexillum), taken from the Em- 
 peror of Cyprus. Among all the trea- 
 sures of England, according to Jocelin 
 of Brakeland, the shrine of St. Ed- 
 mund alone escaped spoliation, when 
 the money was being raised for the 
 redemption of King Eichard. The 
 . Abbot refused to consent to the re- 
 moval of any portion of the jewels 
 with which it was encrusted ; but 
 said that he would leave the church 
 door open, and any one might enter 
 who chose. The justices refused to 
 touch the shrine — saying that St. 
 Edmund's anger was felt even by 
 those at a great distance — how much 
 fiercer would it burn against any one 
 who "took his coat from him" — 
 (" qui tunicam suam ei auferre volue- 
 rint." J. de Brakeland, p. 71.) King 
 John was at Bury in 1203 ; and after 
 making some offerings, ingeniously 
 contrived to appropriate them to his 
 own use during his lifetime. In 
 1234: took place the great meeting 
 
 in St. Edmund's church, which has 
 gained for Bury a place second only 
 to that of Eunnimede in the history 
 of English liberties. In the begin- 
 ning of the year, Abp. Langton had 
 assembled the barons and clergy in St . 
 Paul's, and then appointed a second 
 meeting at Bury, on St. Edmund's 
 day — when the nobles, especially 
 those of the Eastern counties, were 
 accustomed to assemble in great 
 numbers to pay their vows before 
 the shrine. Standing before the high 
 altar, Langton received the pledges 
 of the barons to maintain their con- 
 federacy until they should obtain 
 a charter from the King. Magna 
 Charta was signed at Eunnimede, 
 June 19, 1215. [The motto of the 
 present l:)orough, " Sacrarium regis, 
 cunabula legis," has reference to this 
 famous meeting. Motto and arms 
 were " found " for the town in 1G06, 
 by the famous Camden, then Cla- 
 rencieux King-at-Arms.] 
 
 In 1216 Lewis of France is said 
 to liave seized and carried back to 
 France with him the body of St. Ed- 
 mund. But the fact is mentioned by 
 no English chronicler, and is more 
 than doubtful. At any rate, a body, 
 called that of the martyred King, 
 was reverenced here until the Disso- 
 lution. 
 
 Henry III. several times visited 
 Bury. A Parliament was held here 
 by him in 1272 (during which he 
 was seized with the illness which 
 proved fatal. He died at Westmin- 
 ster, Nov. 20, in the same year) ; and 
 by Edward I. in 1296. (It was on 
 this occasion that the clergy refused 
 to contribute their aid to tlae King). 
 Edward II. kept Christmas here in 
 1326. Ed. III., Eichard IL and his 
 Queen also visited the shrine ; and 
 in 1433 Henry VI. (then aged only 
 12 years 1, was here for some months ; 
 nobly entertained by the Abbot, and 
 disporting himself with " hawking, 
 fishing, and hunting" at the Abbot's 
 manor of Elmswell. On this occasion 
 
 G 2 
 
124 
 
 Houte 3. 
 
 -Bury St. Edmund's : Abbey. Sect. II. 
 
 lie received a MS. copy of his poems 
 from the hands of John Lydgate, 
 the monk. In 1416 Henry VI. lield 
 the parliament at Bnry, wliich de- 
 creed the fall of his Uncle, the good 
 Duke Humphrey of Gloucester. The 
 Duke was arrested and imprisoned ; 
 but was found a few days later, 
 dead in his bed, strangled, as it was 
 thought, by order of the Queen and 
 Suffolk :— 
 
 "It cannot be but ho was murdered here ; 
 The least of all these signs were probable." 
 E. Hen. VI., Part II., Act 3, Sc. 2. 
 
 (The first scene of this Act is laid 
 in the Parliament Chamber at Bury. 
 — There is a local tradition that 
 Duke Humphi'ey was murdered in 
 a room of St. Saviour's Hospital, 
 outside the N. gate of Bury. He 
 was buried at St. Alban's.) 
 
 At the Dissolution (when the Com- 
 missioners found " nothing suspect " 
 touching the Abbot) the yearly re- 
 venue of the Abbey was 2366Z. 16s. 
 But this computation gives a very 
 imperfect idea of its wealth. It has 
 been calculated that the manors be- 
 longing to the Abbey are now worth 
 at least 500,000L a year. The site 
 of the monastery was granted by 
 Elizabeth, in 1560, to John Eyre, — 
 a great " purchaser " of religious 
 houses ; but is now the property of 
 the Marquess of Bristol, whose grand- 
 father inherited it from Sir Charles 
 Davers, Bart. The Abbot's London 
 house was in Aldgate, — and stood on 
 what is now known as "Bevis 
 Marks " — said to be a corruption of 
 " Bury Marks." Hugh of North wold 
 (died 1230) was Abbot of Biu-y before 
 he was transferred to the see of Ely, 
 where he built the presbytery of 
 the Cathedral. Of the monks the 
 most remarkable are John Lydgate 
 the poet, who died in 1446; and 
 Jocelin of Brakeland (the " Brake- 
 land" is a etrcet in Bury) — the 
 famous chronicler, who has recorded 
 the " domestic " events of the Abbey 
 between 1173 and 1202. His Chro- 
 nicle, first printed by the Camden 
 
 Society, has been commented on with 
 remarkable effect by Carlyle, in his 
 'Past and Present.' As a minute 
 picture of the inner life of a great 
 monastery, full of touches which 
 make the past once more present, 
 Jocelin's Chronicle is unrivalled. 
 
 Eichard of Bury, the earliest " bi- 
 bliomaniac," and the great bishop 
 of Durham (1333—1345) was born 
 here, but it does not appear that he 
 was ever a monk of this convent. 
 
 Early in the 12th century, the 
 Abbey was surrounded by a wall, 
 30 ft. high; and by a ditch, fed 
 from the river Linnet. On the line 
 of this wall, very near together, are 
 the chief remains of the monastery ; 
 two noble gate - houses and two 
 churches, St. James's and St. Mary's, 
 both of which were within the mo- 
 nastic limits. These still form a 
 striking and most picturesque line 
 of buildings. 
 
 The AMieij Gate (nearly fronting 
 the Angel Inn) was the chief en- 
 trance to the monastery. It is very 
 beautiful Dec. work; and was built 
 (at least so says tradition) by the 
 townsmen after the plunder of the 
 Abbey in 1327, and the destruction 
 of a former gate (see ante?) It was not 
 thiished, at any rate, until about 1377. 
 (In the same manner, St. Ethelbert's 
 gate at Norwich was built by the 
 citizens, as an atonement for their 
 attack on the Priorv in 1272). The 
 gate, (50 ft. long, 41 ft. broad, 62 ft. 
 high) is battlemented, and the teeth 
 of a modem portcullis peer forth from 
 beneath the double arches, segmental 
 and pointed, which frown over the 
 entrance. The only external oj)en- 
 ings on the side of the town are 
 loops, and across the centre of the 
 archway a sort of bridge of masonry, 
 also loopholed, is thrown, which, by 
 means of archers posted within it, 
 entirely commanded the approaches. 
 " It is a very curious example of the 
 union of a strong fortress with an 
 
Suffolk. Eoute S.-^Bimj St. Edmund's : Abbey. 
 
 125 
 
 ornfimcntal gate-house, the images 
 having concealed the oylettes, and 
 the stations for archers being entirely 
 hid, both from the outside, and from 
 persons entering the gateway." — J. 
 H. P. There were staircases in the 
 S. W. and N. AV. angles ; and a prin- 
 cipal room over the gateway, about 
 28 ft. square, with a large window 
 looking to the E., and others on 
 either side. The appropriation of tliis 
 room is unknown. All the details of 
 the gateway deserve special attention. 
 The shields of arms on the inner wall 
 are those of Edward III. ; his brother, 
 John of Eltham ; his uncle, Thomas 
 of Brotherton, second son of Edward 
 I. ; Henry Earl of Lancaster ; the 
 Confessor ; and England. The j^anel- 
 work " vibrates between English and 
 Continental forms of Third Pointed." 
 This gateway aifords access to the 
 Botanic Garden, a space of ground 
 (about four acres) very pleasantly laid 
 out. The actual garden occupies the 
 site of the great court of the Abbey ; 
 but the walks and grounds extend to 
 the river Lark, which formed the eas- 
 tern boundary of the precincts. Many 
 fragments of the monastic buildings 
 remain in the grounds ; but, for the 
 most part, too much shattered to be 
 of much architectural interest. The 
 vast extent of the ground within the 
 precincts, and still marked by ruins 
 and foundations, is, however, espe- 
 cially noticeable. The great ch. 
 of St. Edmund stretched along on 
 the S. side of the groimds. The 
 main cloister, and the monastic 
 buildings attached to it, were placed, 
 unusually, on the N. side of the nave 
 of the ch.; but although some mounds 
 and foundations remain, the appro- 
 priation of the several portions is 
 very doubtful. 
 
 ■ On the 1. of the Abbey gateway 
 were the Abbot's stables, brewhouses, 
 and offices, a long and stately range 
 of buildings, of which the S. wall, 
 forming the enclosure of the court, is 
 still perfect. Rt. of the gateway were 
 the guest's hall, a chapel of St. Law- 
 
 rence, and the Abbot's mmt. The 
 embattled wall of the mint remains. 
 Immediately in front of the gateway, 
 and forming the eastern side of the 
 great court was the Abbot's Palace, 
 built by Hugh the Sacrist in 1155. 
 Of this the only remain is the crypt 
 of the Abbot's dining hall (on the rt. 
 of the main walk) generally called 
 the "Abbot's Parlour." E. of the 
 palace was the Abbot's Cloister; at- 
 tached to which was a small octa- 
 gonal building, now called the " dove- 
 house," of which it seems to be a 
 very early example. The bath, 
 constructed by Hugh the Sacrist 
 about 1150, was N. of the dove-house, 
 and the stream of the Linnet ran 
 thi'ough it. At the N. E. angle of 
 the precincts, close to the junction of 
 the Linnet and the Lark, stands the 
 Abbot's Bridge, a remarkable and 
 most graceful structure of three 
 arches, said to be the work of Eobert 
 de Gravel (died 1221), Sacrist under 
 Abbot Sampson. (The work is, how- 
 ever, to all appearance of much later 
 date, although its true period can* 
 not be ascertained with certainty). 
 There seems to have been a footbridge 
 on the exterior, formed by planks 
 laid from buttress to buttress, and 
 the whole arrangement of the bridge 
 well deserves notice. The bridge 
 was connected with the wall of the 
 vineyard, which stretched along on 
 the E. side of the Lark, and was 
 acqmi'ed for the convent by Eobert 
 de Gravel, " ad solatimu infirmorum 
 et amicorum." The terraces on 
 which the vines were gi'own are still 
 evident. One of the largest black 
 poplars in England, 90 ft. high, and 
 15 ft. in circumference, at a yard 
 above the ground, stood until lately 
 close to the bridge. There are still 
 some large poplars: but this giant 
 has fallen. 
 
 E. of the great ch. were the Prior's 
 house, the cemetery of the brother- 
 hood, and the Infirmary, Only foun- 
 dations remain. The wreck of an 
 enormous tree known as the " Abbot's 
 
126 
 
 Boute S.-^Bimj St. Edmund's : Abbey. Sect. 11. 
 
 willow"— which in 1822 was 75 ft. 
 high, with a cu'ciimference of IS ft. 
 6 in., containing altogether 440 ft. 
 of solid timber — remained close to 
 the Prior's house until the severe 
 whiter of 1860, when it fell. 
 
 Some mounds running "W. of the 
 ''Abbot's parlour" mark, as has al- 
 ready been said, the site of the great 
 cloister. On the S. side are the 
 walls of a building which was pro- 
 bably the refectory — and which is 
 especially interesting from the fact 
 that in it sat the parliament of 1446, 
 presided over by Henry VI. in person 
 — during which Duke Humphrey was 
 arrested. (See ante.) 
 
 The Ch. of the Abbey has for the 
 most part disappeared ; although some 
 fragments (none of much architec- 
 tural value) remain in private gar- 
 dens, and two houses are built up in 
 the principal arches of the W. en- 
 trance. The plan of St. Edmund's 
 Ch. resembled, to some extent, that 
 of St Etheldred-i's at Ely. Both 
 Chs. had a lofty bell-tower at the W. 
 end of the nave, and a kind of western 
 transept opening laterally from this 
 tower. Chapels with semicircular 
 apses extended eastward from the 
 transept, which opened on either 
 side, N. and S., into an octagonal 
 tower. (Mr. Parker suggests that 
 the central portion of the W. front 
 resembled the great open porches of 
 Peterborough). The enthe ch. at 
 Bury was 505| ft. in length. The nave 
 (including the W. tower) was 300 ft. 
 long. A great tower rose at the 
 intersection of the nave and great 
 transept, which had eastern aisles, 
 and apsidal chapels projecting from 
 them in the N. and S. bays. The 
 choir had a semicircular termination, 
 the aisle passing quite round it, as 
 ut Norwich. On either side, N. and 
 S., was a square chapel probably 
 opening from the transept. That S. 
 was the chapel of St. Andrew ; that 
 N. (built by Abbot Simon de Luton — 
 died 1279) was the chapel of the 
 
 Blessed Virgin — which occupied the 
 same place here as at Ely — and no 
 doubt from the same cause, the 
 necessity of giving up the eastern 
 part of the ch. to the shrine of the 
 local saint. 
 
 The most interesting fragments of 
 this once famous church remain in 
 a garden occupied by Mr. Pettit, 
 keeper of the Botanical Garden, and 
 contiguous to the house now occu- 
 pied by the Kev. F. Chapman. 
 These fragments are the bases of 
 the piers of the great central tower. 
 As in most Norm, chs., the choir 
 of the monks no doubt extended 
 under this tower into the nave. 
 The high altar probably stood a 
 little to the E. of the eastern piers ; 
 and an inscription has accordingly 
 been placed against the N. W. pier, 
 recording that "Near this spot, on 
 the 20th of November, a. d. 1215, 
 Cardinal Langton and the Barons 
 swore at St. Edmund's altar that 
 they would obtain from King John 
 the ratification of Magna Charta." 
 The verses which follow are by Dr. 
 Donaldson, for some time head mas- 
 ter of the grammar school at Bm'y. 
 Other tablets against the piers record 
 the names and present representatives 
 of the twenty-five confederate barons ; 
 and the discovery, in 1772, of the 
 body of Thomas Beaufort, Duke of 
 Exeter, second son of John of Gaunt. 
 The body was found perfect; and 
 was reinterred at the foot of the pier. 
 Among other great personages buried 
 in this church 
 
 " Who thought it should have canopied 
 
 their bones 
 Till domesday " 
 
 were Alan of Britanny and his wife 
 Constance, daughter of the Con- 
 queror ; Thomas of Brotherton, Earl 
 of Norfolk, fifth son of Edward 
 I. ; and Mary Tudor, sister of Henry 
 VIII., widow of Louis XII. of France, 
 and afterwards wife of Charles Bran- 
 don, Duke of Sufiblk. Her remains, 
 on the Disaohition, were conveyed 
 
Suffolk. Boute 3. — Bury St. Edmund's : Churches. 
 
 127 
 
 into St. Mary's Cb„ where they now 
 
 rest. 
 
 The shrine of St. Edmund, thickly 
 crusted with jewels, and " very com- 
 berous to deface," as the commis- 
 sioners reported to Cromwell, stood 
 in the eastern part of the ch. behind 
 the high altar. The place is now 
 open and unmarked ; but it was here 
 that Abbot Sampson (a. d. 1198) 
 when he set up the new shrine, 
 beheld and touched the body of the 
 saint — perfect as was asserted, having 
 the njse "valde grossum et valde 
 emincntem ;" — (see the curious ac- 
 court in Jocelin, p. 82, seq. ) and here 
 that the long procession of kings and 
 priices, reaching from the 10th cen- 
 tury to the 16th, made their rich 
 oferings, and " performed their vows." 
 
 Eeturning through the Abbey gate, 
 and proceeding northward, St. James's 
 Ch. (see post) is passed, close to 
 which is the Norman tower; built 
 about 1090. It stands on a line with 
 the W. front of the Abbey Ch., and 
 was called indifferently the " great 
 gate of the church," or "of the 
 churchyard." Above the portal arch 
 are three tiers of arcades; and the 
 whole tower " aifords a valuable speci- 
 men of rich early Norm, work, exe- 
 cuted with the axe, and not with the 
 chisel."—/. H. P. The shallow wes- 
 tern ix)rch was added about 50 years 
 later. The tower had fallen into 
 disrepair, and thi'eatened complete 
 ruin, when in 1848 it was carefully 
 restored under the dii-ection of Mr, 
 Cottingham, at a cost of 4000?., 
 raised by subscription. The ground 
 had been intentionally raised about 
 it, after a great flood, when the level 
 of St. James's Ch. was also raised 
 several feet. This accumulation of 
 soil was partly removed in 1848, but 
 the tower is still so sunken that it 
 is difficult to get a full view, and 
 at a proper distance, of its lower 
 story. The great gurgoyles which 
 project from the upper story, seem 
 to be additions due to Mr. Cot- 
 
 tingham. They do not appear in 
 early drawings of the tower. 
 
 St. James's Ch. extends N. of tliis 
 gateway ; and immediately fronting 
 it are three arches of the great ch., 
 now built up into houses. At the S. 
 W. angle is the lower part of an oc- 
 tagonal tower (sec the description' of 
 the ch. ante) now used as a deposi- 
 tory for wills. The ch.-yd., crossed 
 by an avenue of lime trees, was known 
 as the "cemetery of St. Edmund;" 
 and in it were held miracle plays, 
 and shows of various kinds, until 
 Abbot Sampson, disturbed by the 
 tumults which arose between the 
 townspeople and the Abbot's men, 
 prohibited them. Some ivy-covered 
 walls in the ch.-yd. are the remains 
 of the " chaj^el of the charnel," now 
 serving as the Mausoleum of Mr. 
 Alderman Spink. Tlie Shire Hall 
 stands on the site of St. Margaret's 
 Ch., long destroyed, but said by 
 Leland to have been unusually rich 
 and beautiful. 
 
 St. James's Chiircli is a fine Perp. 
 building, dating (the nave) from 
 about 1436. A new chancel of late 
 Dec. character, was added in 1868 
 (G. G. Scott, architect). The roof 
 of the nave, dating from 1862, was 
 also designed by Mr. Scott. The 
 whole restoration and addition is 
 very excellent. Here is a hideous 
 statue of Judge Eeynolds (died 1738); 
 and on the wall of the N. aisle a 
 medallion by Chantrey, in memory of 
 E. V. Blomfield, brother of the bishop 
 of London. 
 
 Beyond the Norm, tower, N., is 
 St. Manjs Ch., very well worth a 
 visit. It is for the most part Perp. 
 of the early part of the loth cent., 
 but portions of the chancel are 
 earlier. The N. Porch was erected 
 under the will of John Notyngham, 
 grocer, 1437. The ch. was "restored" 
 by Cottingham in 1844. Tlie nave 
 aifords a good example of the very 
 lofty Perp. arcades common to Nor- 
 folk and Suifolk. The clerestory is 
 
128 Boute 3. — Bury St. Edmund's : Moyses Hall. Sect. 11. 
 
 necessarily small. The open roof is 
 one of tlie finest in the country; 
 with angels at the points of the ham- 
 mer beams, and small figures of 
 saints on the battlemented shaft 
 capitals rising between each aroli. 
 The spandrels also are filled in witli 
 devices, all deserving careful atten- 
 tion. The principal at end of the 
 nave, over the place of the great 
 rood, bears the mottoes of John 
 Baret — " God me guyde," and " Grace 
 me gouerne;" and a portion of the 
 roof, at the end of the N. nave isle, 
 bears the same mottoes diagonally, 
 with other inscriptions on the beams 
 This was over a chapel of Our Lady, 
 founded by Baret. The window over 
 the chancel arcli, representing the 
 martyrdom of St. Edmund, is by 
 Willement. The glass in the large 
 and fine W. window is by Heaton 
 and Butler (1854;. The E. window 
 is by Wailes. There are other good 
 windows at the W. end of the ch. ; 
 one of which, in the S. aisle, is a 
 memorial to the second Marquess of 
 Bristol. The arclies of the chancel 
 are much lower than those of the 
 nave, and there is no clerestory. 
 The waggon roof, with its many 
 cmious devices, will repay a long 
 examination. On the N. side, is the 
 fine tomb, with effigies, of Sir William 
 Carew (died 1501) and his first wife, 
 tlie heiress of the Drurys. On the 
 S. side, is the tomb and effigies of 
 Sir Robert Drury, " privy counsellor 
 to Henry VII." — died 1586 — and his 
 wife. Both knights are bareheaded, 
 and have the hair short over the fore- 
 head, and falHng low on each side. 
 S. of the S. altar tomb is a small but 
 interesting hrass for Jenkyn Smith 
 (circ. 1480) and his wife Marion. 
 He wears a collar with a badge 
 (Yorkist P^i, and was a great bene- 
 factor to the town. Both figures are 
 kneeling, with hands raised and 
 open. At the E. end of the S. aisle 
 is the altar tomb of .John Baret. It 
 bears a figure in a winding sheet, and 
 some inscriptions. There is no date, 
 
 but it cannot be earlier than the end 
 of the 15th cent. An inscrii^tion on 
 the N. wall of the chancel records 
 tliat the remains of Mary Tudor (see 
 ante) were conveyed hither from the 
 Abbey Chm'ch at the Dissolution. 
 
 Bp. Bedell and Edmund Calamy 
 were "preachers" attached to St. 
 Mary's Church. 
 
 The absence of a towei in both 
 these churches is very noticeable. 
 " Magnificent as they are, the great 
 Abbey Church seems to have felt 
 that it had nothing to fear from their 
 rivalry ; but in denying them the 
 crowning glory of a Perpendicular 
 chui'ch, it asserted its supremacy in 
 the most effective way. Their ex- 
 terior is as tame as their interior is 
 noble."— >S'ai. Bev., July, 1869. 
 
 After visiting the Abbey and its 
 precincts, the remaining places of in- 
 terest in Bury will not long detain 
 the tourist. The* Police station in 
 the market-place, known as Moyses 
 Hall, seems to have been a Jew's 
 house, like that at Lincoln, which is 
 earlier. This is Trans. Xorm. of the 
 12th cent, and has an upper storj^, 
 resting on a vaulted sub-structure. 
 The windows are deeply recessed, 
 and have seats. There seem to have 
 been no windows on the ground 
 floor, and the njaper part of the 
 house has been too much altered to 
 allow of any certainty as to its plan. 
 It may have been a tower, of which 
 the upper part has been destroyed. 
 " The tradition giving these strong 
 liouses at Lincoln and Bury to Jews 
 is curious, and shows that it is pro- 
 bable the Jews did construct such 
 dwellings for their own safety. They \ 
 were driven from Bury by Abbot \ 
 Sampson in 1190, having had illegal 
 transactions with subordinate officers 
 of the monastery. In 1183 Sane to 
 the Jew was fined 5 marks, that he 
 might not be punished for takmg in 
 pledge certain sacred vessels." The 
 Guildhall has a Perp. porch, and an 
 E. Eng. portal, of great beauty. All 
 the rest is modern. In it is a fine 
 
Suffolk. Boute 3. — Bunj St. Edmund's : School; Uosptals. 129 
 
 half-length by Kneller (painted 1699) 
 of the first Lord Kervcy. An excel- 
 lent pnblic library is arranged here ; 
 and a valuable collection of early 
 printed books, formerly in St. James's 
 Ch., has been added to its treasures. 
 
 The Grammar School, at first in 
 Eastgate street, was removed to North - 
 gate street in 16G4. The building, 
 in front of which is a row of ancient 
 but decaying acacias — very notice- 
 able for their size and ribbed trunks 
 — was modernized in 1820. The 
 school was the first of those founded 
 by Edward VI., and has always 
 maintained a high reputation. One 
 of its most distinguished masters 
 was the late Dr. Donaldson, author 
 of the ' New Cratylus,' &c. ; and 
 among its scholars (the school seems 
 to have had a specialty for pro- 
 ducing bishops) are reckoned Gau- 
 den, Bishop of "Worcester, the pro- 
 bable author of 'Ikon Basilike;' 
 Archbishop Bancroft ; Warren, Bishop 
 of Bangor (1750) ; Thurlow, Bi.shop of 
 Durliam, (1766) ; Tomline, Bishop 
 of Winchester (1772) ; Dr. Blomfield, 
 the late Bishop of London ; and the 
 late Lord Chancellor Cranworth. 
 
 There are some remaios of >S'^. 
 Nicliolaii Hospital outside the East- 
 gate ; but the 3- light Dec. window 
 now here was brought very lately 
 from the chapel of St. Petronilla's 
 hospital, now pulled down. In 
 Northgate road is a portion of the 
 gatehouse of St. Saviours Sospital. 
 In this hospital, says the local tradi- 
 tion, the good Duke Humphrey was 
 murdered (see ante). On the 1. side 
 of Northgate road is the " ThingJiow" 
 a mound which gives name to the 
 Hundred, and which was the ancient 
 place of assembly for the " Thing," 
 a word suggesting the period when 
 Suffolk lay within the "Danelagh." 
 The Thinghow was the place of exe- 
 ciTtion till 1766, and the 40 persons 
 hanged at Bury in 1614, under the 
 ban of Hopkins the " witchtinder," — 
 
 " Who after proved himself a witch, 
 Aud made a rod for his owu breech," — 
 
 no doubt suflfered here. More than 
 12 persons were burnt at Bury, " for 
 religion's sake," between the years 
 1555-1558. 
 
 The Athenxum, on the Angel Hill, 
 contains the Museum of the " Suftblk 
 Institute of Archaeology and Natural 
 History;" — a library, 2 reading- 
 rooms, and a fine lecture-hall, where 
 literary and scientific papers are read 
 fortnightly during the " session." 
 
 Bury Fair, commemorated in Shad- 
 well's Comedy, was for more than 
 a century (1660—1780; the most 
 fashionably attended fair in England. 
 "An infinite number of knights, and 
 gentleman's daughters come here to 
 
 market and that not in vain, 
 
 for this fail- seldom concludes with- 
 out some considerable matches or 
 intreagues."— illagr. Brit. 1721. It 
 formerly lasted a fortnight, and is 
 still held on St. Matthew's Day (Sept. 
 21) on the Angel HiU. This fak 
 seems to have been first granted to 
 the monastery by Henry I. — (An 
 elaborate paper on ' The Antiquities 
 of Bury,' by Gordon O. Hills, will 
 be found in the 21st vol. of tiie 
 ' Journal of the Archaeol. Assoc.') 
 
 Some very pleasant excursions may 
 be made from Bury. The most in- 
 teresting are, — to Ichworth and 
 Little Saxliam ; to He^igrave ; to 
 BuslibrooTce, HardivicJ:, and Haw- 
 stead ; to Barton Hall and Ixwortk. 
 Euston, and other places mentioned 
 in the continuation of the present 
 route, may also be visited from 
 Bury. 
 
 (ft). Ickworth (Marquess of Bris- 
 tol), 3 m. from Bmy, is a landmark 
 throughout the neighbourhood. It 
 stands on high ground; and the 
 cupola of the central portion, locally 
 known as " Ickworth building," 
 rises to a height of 140 feet. (The 
 ch. of Horningsworth, or "Hor- 
 ringer," of which Bp. Bedell was 
 rector, at the entrance of the park, 
 
 a 3 
 
130 
 
 Boiite 3. — Ichvorth : Pictures ; Parle. Sect. II. 
 
 is cliiefly Decorated, witli Perp. addi- 
 tions.) The mansion of Ickwortli is 
 of imusual and somewhat fantastic 
 character. Its lofty central portion 
 is a rotunda, connected by curved 
 corridors Nvith two wings. Tlie 
 principal rooms are in the rotunda; 
 and each is, of course, a segment of 
 the great circle. The house was 
 begun in 1795 by Frederick 4th 
 Lord Bristol and Bishop of Derry ; 
 and was designed to contain a collec- 
 tion of pictures and statues which 
 the French took from him in Italy. 
 Bound the upper part of the build- 
 ing runs a frieze of bas-reliefs in 
 stucco, — the subjects from Flasman's 
 Homer ; and others are placed above 
 the portico of the main entrance. In 
 the hall is an early work by Flax- 
 man, a fine, life-size group in marble, 
 representing Athamas destroying his 
 own child, — a subject from Ovid's 
 Metamorphoses. 
 
 The principal pictures in the 
 house are : Great Entrance Hall. — 
 John, Lord Hervey, Lord Privy Seal 
 (author of tlie entertaining memoirs 
 of George II.), full length, seated as 
 Lord Privy Seal ; the Bishop of 
 Derry (the Earl of Bristol, who built 
 the present house) ; the Earl of St. 
 Alban's ; Sir Thomas Feltou, by 
 Kneller. Dratcing Room. — Lord 
 Liverpool, by Sir Thomas Laicrenee. 
 (This was copied for Lord Bristol 
 by Sir Thomas Lawrence from the 
 original in possession of the King, 
 by George IV.'s express permission.) 
 The inscription below runs : — 
 " Beata simplicitas, quaj difficiles 
 qusestionum relinquit vias, et in 
 plana et firma pergit semita manda- 
 torum Dei ") ; Lady Liverpool, by 
 Homney ; Jolm Augustus, Lord Her- 
 vey, by Gainshorongh ; Sir Charles 
 Davers, by Sir Josluia Eetjnolds ; The 
 Communion of St. Jerome, a good 
 copy after Dominichino, by Eihera. 
 Library. — 2 portraits of Spanish 
 Princes, with dog, wliole lengths, by 
 Vtlasquez. (These pictures are very 
 
 fine, one especially, — representing a 
 boy in black, slashed with red, hold- 
 ing a dog and carrying a gun — the 
 background is mountainous. A bust 
 of Lord Hervey, by Boucharclon 
 (1729); the chimney-piece in this 
 room is by Canova. Dining Boom. — 
 Admiral Hervey, third Earl of Bristol, 
 the first husband of the celebrated 
 Duchess of Kingston, full length, 
 by Gainsborough, very fine ; portraits 
 of Earl Jermyn (afterwards second 
 Marquess of Bristol) and his wife 
 Lady Katherine Jermyn, by Sir 
 Francis Grant ; portrait of first Mar- 
 quess of Bristol, by Sir Thomas Laiv- 
 rence. There are also in the house 
 a good portrait of Mary Lepell (Lady 
 Hervey) in middle age, copied from 
 the one at Coldham, She was cele- 
 brated when young by Churchill in 
 the following verses : — 
 
 " That face, that form, that dignitj', that ease, 
 Those powers of pleasing with that will to 
 
 please, 
 By u hich Lepel, when in her youthful days, 
 Even from the currish Pope extorted praise." 
 
 A portrait of William Hervey, whose 
 death occasioned the admirable poem 
 by Cowley ; also portraits of Con- 
 greve, Prior, Card, de Eetz ; a group 
 by Hogarth of Lord Ilchester, Lord 
 Holland ; one by Zophany of Mary 
 Lepell. Lady Hervey, and some of 
 her children. 
 
 In the park (1800 acres — 11 miles 
 round — well wooded and pleasant; 
 is an obelisk 95 ft. high, of Ket- 
 ton stone, erected by the people of 
 Derry in honour of their Bishop, 
 the 4th Earl of Bristol, who died 
 in 1803 ; the Eoman Catholic bishop, 
 and the Dissenting minister resi- 
 dent at Derry being among those 
 who contributed, says the inscrip- 
 tion. The ch. within the park, 
 contains the graves of the Herveys, 
 including John Lord Hervey and his 
 wife Mary Lepell — but with no 
 pomp of monuments. The long, 
 rhyming inscription on the slab 
 which covers the tomb of the latter 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Hou fe 3 .• — CJievington — Saxliam . 
 
 131 
 
 is by Horaco WaljDole, and ends 
 thus — 
 
 " In vain the sculptor or the muse 
 So sad, so sweet a theme pursues ; 
 The chisel drops, th' imfinished strain 
 Respects the sou it soothes in vain." 
 
 The ch. itself has an E. E. chancel, 
 in which is a triplet E. window, 
 with a circular light above it. 
 
 The manor of Ickworth passed, 
 about the middle of the 15th cent., 
 into the hands of the Herveys, by 
 marriage with an heiress of the 
 Drury family. The Suffolk Herveys 
 are apparently descended from a 
 certain " Herveus Bituricensis " (of 
 Berri), who appears in Domesday 
 as a very large landowner in the 
 county. 
 
 CJievington Ch. (1 m. S.W. from 
 Ickworth), contains Trans. Norman 
 portions (N. and S. doors) ; and a 
 fine chest is preserved here. There 
 is a deep moat marking the site of a 
 country house of the Abbots of Bury, 
 and an old road is still called 
 "the Abbot's Way." In the vil- 
 lage is a large factory of soldiers' 
 clothing. The cloth is brought here, 
 and the clothes sent out ready made. 
 But the excursion may be prolonged 
 with more interest to Little Saxham 
 (U m. N. E. of Ickworth). The Ch. 
 here has a remarkable and very pic- 
 turesque round tower — perhaps the 
 best example in the county (see 
 Introd. for some general remarks on 
 these towers). It is Norman (early 
 12th centy.), and round the upper 
 story is a well-designed and effective 
 arcade. Within, the arch from the 
 nave is lofty and very narrow ; and 
 at the side is a low arched recess, 
 which may have served as a seat. 
 TJie walls and doorway of nave are 
 also Norman. The chancel is of the 
 15th centy. ; and the N. chapel was 
 built by Sir Thomas Lucas, Solicitor- 
 General under Henry VII. He has a 
 monument here ; and in the chancel 
 is one for William, Lord Crofts, 
 created Baron Crofts of Saxham in 
 
 1G5S. His father had suffered mucli 
 for his loyalty to the Stewarts ; and 
 he was himself one of Charles II.'s 
 most "mad-cap" companions. (He 
 is the " mad-cap Croftes " of Gram- 
 mont's Memoirs.) Saxham Hall, in 
 which Charles more tlian once visited 
 Lord Crofts, was pulled down in 
 1771, and some of its stained glass 
 was then placed in the ch. Great 
 Saxham Ch., about 1 m. S.E. was 
 nearly rebuilt about 1798. It has 
 some Norm, traces ; and some stained 
 glass in the chancel, brought from 
 the continent. Here is also a bust 
 of John Eldred, an early traveller 
 in the Holy Land, who died in 1G32. 
 (The voyages of this enterprising Le- 
 vant merchant to Tripolis and Baby- 
 lon will be found in Hackluyt, t. ii.) 
 On the floor is his brass, represent- 
 ing him in his gown, as Alderman 
 of London. The inscription j)artly 
 rims : — 
 
 " The Holy Land, so called, I have seane, 
 And in the land of Babilon have beane; 
 But in that land where glorious samts doe 
 
 live, 
 My soule doth crave of Christ a roome to 
 give." 
 
 Gt. Saxham Hall, long held by the 
 Eldreds, is now the seat of W. Mills 
 Esq. 
 
 [Saxham is easily reached from its 
 station on the rly. between Bury and 
 Newmarket, Kte. 6.] 
 
 [At Denham, about 4 m. S.W. of 
 Little Saxham. is a high mound, 
 called Denham Castle, with an earth- 
 work attached to it. Foundations of 
 Norman work have been found hero. 
 Denham Hall is moated. In the Ch. 
 are some fine monuments of tlie 
 Lewknor family. 
 
 At Lydgate, about the same dis- 
 tance S.W. of Denham, is a similar 
 mound and earthwork. Mr. Harrod, 
 who has well examined many similar 
 remains in Norfolk and Suffolk, con- 
 siders the mound and earthworks to 
 bo British, and that these "fast- 
 
132 
 
 Boute 3. — Hengrave Hall and Church. Sect. II. 
 
 nesses " were afterwards occupied by- 
 Saxon and Norman, who raised their 
 own structures within or upon tliem. 
 Eye Castle (Ete. 7) may be com- 
 pared ; and Castle Acre and Castle 
 Eising in Norfolk (Norfolk, Etes. 7 
 and 9.) 
 
 The churches of Denham and Lyd- 
 gate are of little interest. Lydgate 
 gave name to the poet, the monk of 
 Buiy, who was Chaucer's forerunner.] 
 
 (&.) Hengrave Hall (Sir Edward 
 Eokewode Gage, Bart.) well deserves 
 a visit. It is one of the most inter- 
 esting examples of a Tudor mansion 
 remaining in England ; although, 
 by the removal of the outer court, 
 and of other portions of the building, 
 the house has been reduced to one- 
 third of its original size. It was 
 begun by Sir Thomas Kytson, about 
 1525, comi^leted 1538 ; and was one 
 of the first of those stately houses 
 which wealthy merchants were at 
 that time beginning to construct in 
 tlie open country, the security of 
 walled towns having become less 
 necessary (see Fronde, Hist. Eng. I. 
 8-9). Tlie house, which is built 
 round an inner court, is of white 
 brick, with stone dressings. The 
 gatehouse with the whole of the S. 
 front, and the oriel of the inner 
 court are the most enriched portions, 
 and are in excellent preservation. 
 The curious mixture of Gothic with 
 "renaissance" details in the gate- 
 house, with its gabies and flanking 
 turrets, should be noticed. The Kyt- 
 son crest, an unicorn's head erased, 
 appears in the spandrels of the arch- 
 way. The large central shield in the 
 lower part of the oriel has the arms of 
 France and England quarterly; the 
 shield rt. bt-ars Cavendish impaled 
 with Kytson; and 1. Kytson with 
 Darcy Earl Elvers. The small 
 shields below bear Kytson with 
 other quarterings. The best general 
 point of view of the house is at tiie 
 S.W. angle, where the rich details of 
 the gatehouse, and the many win- 
 
 dows and projections of the long S. 
 front group very picturesquely. The 
 oriel of the inner court originally 
 lighted the hall. 
 
 The interior of Hengrave has been 
 greatly altered since the reduction 
 of the building in 1775. The inner 
 court however is still surrounded by 
 a cloister, in the windows of which 
 are many shields of arms in stained 
 glass ; and in the chapel is a good 
 window of Flemish glass, with 21 
 subjects, ranging from the Creation 
 to the Final Judgment. The house 
 also contains a fine portrait by Hol~ 
 hein, of Sir Thomas Kytson, the 
 founder of Hengrave, besides many 
 of clifierent members of the Kytson 
 and Gage families, the latter of 
 whom became proprietors of Hen- 
 grave through the marriage of Pene- 
 lope, daughter of Mary Kytson, 
 Countess Elvers, with Sir John Gage, 
 of West Fiiie in Sussex. It is said 
 that Sir George Trenchard, Sir John 
 Gage, and Sir William Hervey, were 
 suitors together for the hand of the 
 Lady Penelope, and that she promised 
 to marry them all three in turn, 
 which she actually did. Her por- 
 trait at Hengrave, without being 
 distinguished by very remarkable 
 beauty, is pretty and interesting, 
 indicating great determination of 
 character. Sir Thomas Kytson, 
 founder of Hengrave, "citizen and 
 mercer of London, otherwise called 
 Kytson the merchant," was one of 
 tlie wealthiest English merchants 
 of his time, and possessed consider- 
 able estates in most of the Southern 
 counties. He died at Hengrave in 
 1540. 
 
 Henfjrave Ch., which closely ad- 
 joins the hall, was rebuilt in the first 
 years of the 15th centy., but has been 
 greatly altered. The round tower at 
 the W. end is considerably earlier 
 than the ch. itself; and, like others 
 in this part of Sufiblk, is not impro- 
 bably Norman. There are some re- 
 mains of stained glass in the ch. 
 windows ; and a wall painting of St. 
 
Suffolk. Route 3. — IcMingham—Itusltbroolie Hall. 
 
 133 
 
 Christopher over the N. door. The 
 chief objects of interest here, how- 
 ever, are the fine IGth-cent. tombs of 
 IMargaret, Countess of Bath, whose 
 first husband was Sir Thomas Kyt- 
 sou, the " merchant," and of her son, 
 Sir Th. Kytson the younger. The 
 effigies of the Earl and Coimtess of 
 Bath rtst on an altar tomb ; and on 
 a step below is a recumbent figure of 
 Sir Th. Kytson, in armour. Both 
 monuments have been richly coloured, 
 and with their inscriptions and mot- 
 toes are excellent specimens of their 
 class and period. There is also a 
 mural tablet with kneeling figure for 
 Thomas Darcy, son of Mary Kytson, 
 Countess Eivers. 
 
 [The Ch. of Laclcford, 3 m. W. of 
 Heugrave, is E. E. and Dec, and 
 contains an octangular font, with en- 
 riched panels of foliage, temp. Ed. I. 
 
 2 m. N.W. of Lackford are the two 
 IcMinghains, whose name (like others 
 in Sultblk, Ixworth, Ikenhall, Ikets- 
 hall, &c.) in all probability preserves 
 a recollection of the Iceni, the old 
 masters of the country. The Ikeuild 
 way (another relic of the Iceni), passed 
 from Eoyston to Caistor across the 
 heaths of Icklingham. Kemains of 
 a villa may be seen in the so-called 
 Eampart field, a little S. of Ickling- 
 ham All Saints ; and there are many 
 dykes and fosses adjoining the two 
 villages. In the chancel of Ickling- 
 Jiam All Saints ch. is a pavement of 
 Roman tiles, found in the parish 
 about 30 years since. This ch. is 
 almost entirely Dec, and the S. aisle 
 is especially fine and rich. " TJaere 
 is a most exc[uisito ch. chest, one of 
 the finest in England, completely 
 covered vdth graceful Dec. kon scroll- 
 work.'] 
 
 (c.) Buslihroolie Hall (E. Eush- 
 brooke, Esq.), 3 m. S.E. of Bury, is 
 v large, red-brick moated mansion 
 (Elizabethan), where, in the days and 
 progresses of Elizabeth, " Sir Eobert 
 Jermyn feasted, in 1571, the Queen 
 aud the French ambassadors two 
 
 several times, with which charges 
 and courtesie they stood marvellously 
 contented." From this Jermyn was 
 descended Henry Jermyn, first Baron 
 Jermyn of St. Edmundsbury (1(543), 
 afterwards (1G60) created Earl of St. 
 Alban's. Scandal connected his name 
 with that of the Queen Henrietta 
 Maria, to whom he is said to have 
 been privately married. He died 
 childless in 1683, and the estate has 
 since passed to the Daverses of 
 Eougham, who also failed in 1806, 
 when Col. Eushbrooke obtained the 
 place from Lord Bristol, by giving in 
 exchange some property at Saxham. 
 Here is a large collection of por- 
 traits ; among which the most notice- 
 able are — a fine full-length, by Van- 
 dycli, of Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. 
 Albans; half-lengths {Vandijch) of 
 Lord Hopton and son ; half-length of 
 the Duke of Hamilton, who was be- 
 headed, (by Hanneman) ; full-length 
 of Lord St. Alban's in his robes, 
 {Lely); Catherine of Braganza, queen 
 of Charles II., seated in a shell chair, 
 (Lely), and Edward Proclgers, {Lely). 
 In the Ch., which underwent much 
 "restoration," temp. Eliz., the first 
 Earl of St. Albans and many other 
 Jermyns are buried. The nave has 
 been fitted up with modern carvings, 
 the work of the late Col. Eush- 
 brooke. 
 
 (1 m, N. E. of Rushbrooke is 
 Eougham (P. Bennett, Esq.), a 
 modern castellated house. (See Ete. 
 6.) 
 
 The return to Bury may be made 
 by Hawstead andHardwicke. Haic- 
 stead Place, of which the foundations 
 and 2 windows are still to be seen, 
 with a curious gateway commemorat- 
 ing the marriage of Sir Thomas 
 Cullum and the 2nd daiighter of Sir 
 Henry North, 1657, is now a farm- 
 house belonging to Lady Cullum. 
 It w^as the seat of the Drurys from 
 20th of Henry VIL, when they pur- 
 chased it from the Cloptons. Queen 
 Elizabeth was here in 1578, and is 
 said to have then knighted the Lord 
 
134 
 
 Boiite 3. — Haivstead — Hardvuiche House. Sect. II. 
 
 of ITawstcarl, who restored to lier 
 her silver-mounted fau, which she 
 drojopcd into the moat. (From these 
 Drurys Drury Lane in London de- 
 rived its name. Drury House stood 
 on the site of the Olympic Theatre.) 
 The Ch. is of flint, with stone 
 dressings. In it are Norman doors 
 and arches, Avith an E. E. chancel; 
 but the first Sir R. Drury, in the 
 reign of Henry VII., built, and 
 placed his arms upon, the tower. In 
 the ch. is a Terp. roodscreen (above 
 which, on the S. side, the sanctus 
 bell still hangs) and lectern. In the 
 N. wall of tlie chancel is a good 
 effigy, temp. Ed. I., probably of one 
 of ti"ie Fitz-Eustaces, atIio at that 
 time were lords of Hawstead. On 
 the cliancel floor are brasses for Eoger 
 Druiy, 1500, and Ursula, daughter 
 of the first Sir Eobert Drury, and 
 wife of Giles Allington, temp. Hen. 
 VIII. On an altar tomb at the S.E. 
 angle of the nave are brasses for Sir 
 "William Drury and his wives, Joan 
 St. Maur and Elizabeth Solehill. 
 (There is also a stained window to 
 the memory of the latter.) The in- 
 scription partly runs — 
 
 " The seventh of frosty Janyver, the yere of 
 
 Christ I find 
 A thousiiiid, live hundred fifty seven his 
 
 vytall thvcd untwyned : 
 Who yet duth live and shall do styll, in 
 
 hearts of them that Icnew hym ; 
 God graunt the slyppes of such a stok in 
 
 vertues to ensue hym." 
 
 Here also is the monument 'the 
 work of Nicholas Stone, who received 
 140L for it) of Sir Eobert Drury, 
 (d. 1G15, the last of the Hawstead 
 Drurys) ; and an alabaster ettigy of 
 Elizabeth Drury, the only daughter 
 of Sir Eobert and his wife Anne, 
 daugliter of Lord Keeper Bacon. 
 She died, aged 15, in 1610 ; and her 
 virtues, beauty, and early deatli are 
 commemorated in an elegy by Dr. 
 Donne, wlio says : — 
 
 " Her pure and eloquent blood 
 
 Spoke in her cheeks, and so distinctly 
 wrought 
 
 That one would almost say her body 
 thoucrht." 
 
 (The Latin inscriptions on these 
 tombs, worth reading, are by Dr. 
 Donne, of whom Sir Eobert Drury 
 was the great friend and patron.) 
 The common belief at Hawstead is 
 that Elizabeth Drury was killed by a 
 box on the ear from her father; but 
 the position of the figure— resting 
 on the 1. arm — is the sole authority 
 for such a story. It is said that 
 Prince Henry, eldest son of James I., 
 was strongly attached to Elizabeth 
 Drury. A small bas-relief of " Bene- 
 volence," by the elder Bacon, in 
 memory of Lucy Metcalfe, should 
 not be unnoticed. There is also a 
 monument to the 1st Sir Thomas 
 Cullum. 
 
 The excellent Joseph Hall, Bishop 
 successively of Exeter and Norwich, 
 was rector of Hawstead, (his first 
 preferment, 1601). He was pre- 
 sented by Lady Drury ; married 
 here ; and in his account of his life, 
 speaks of being settled " in that 
 sweet and civil country of Sufiblk, 
 near to St. Edmund's Bmy." He 
 repaired the old rectory house here, 
 which has only lately been pulled 
 down. 
 
 Near the site of Hawstead Place 
 are three very large and ancient Ori- 
 ental plane-trees. This tree was 
 introduced to the country by Lord 
 Bacon, who was closely allied to Sir 
 Eobert Drury. It is probable there- 
 fore that the planes of Hawstead 
 were sent by him to Sir Eobert. 
 Some very fine lime-trees should 
 also be remarked. 
 
 Hardwicke House (Lady Cullum) 
 1^ m. N. contains some interesting 
 pictures and portraits, and a fine 
 library, rich in county histories. 
 Among the antiquities, which are 
 luunerous, are an Etruscan tomb and 
 otlier interesting remains brought 
 from Chiusi in 1841, 
 
 The house, originally built by Sir 
 Eobert Drury, Avas rebuilt by Sir 
 Dudley Cullum in 1681. The general 
 features of that building still re- 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boute 3. — Barton Hall 
 
 135 
 
 main, though it was considerably 
 altered and improved by the late 
 Eev. Sir Thomas Gery Cullum, 
 whose widow is the present j^ro- 
 prietor. 
 
 Over the porch are the Drnry 
 cognizances — the mullet and grey- 
 hound — together with the shield of 
 Sir Dudley Cullum. The rooms con- 
 tain many works of art. Among the 
 nmnerous family pictures is a full- 
 length reclining picture of Elizabeth 
 Drury (whose monument is in the 
 church, see ante) ; a tine portrait of 
 Sir Thomas Cullum, 1st Baronet, 
 who died in 1664 ; Sir Thomas Cul- 
 lum, 2nd Baronet, and his wife 
 (daughter of Sir Henry North), by 
 Lely, in his best style; Sir John 
 Cullum, 5th Baronet, by Dance ; his 
 wife, by Angelica Kaufmann ; Sir 
 John Cullum, 6th Baronet (the 
 Antiquary, F.K.S. and F.S.A.), by 
 Angelica Kauffman — he died in 
 1784 : portrait of present Lady Cul- 
 lum, by W. Boxall, E.A. 
 
 In one of the passages is hung 
 up a curious piece of wainscoting, 
 painted with various sentences, em- 
 blems, and mottoes. It had formerly 
 belonged to a closet called the 
 Painted Closet; at first probably 
 designed for an oratory, and, judging 
 from one of the sentences, intended 
 for the use of a lady. The dresses of 
 the figures are temp. James I. This 
 closet was therefore fitted up for the 
 last Lady Drury, and perhaps under 
 her direction. There are also some 
 interesting early Italian pictures, 
 including 2 Ginttos and a fine Cre- 
 velli (a triptic, the Virgin and Child, 
 with 2 bishops). 
 
 The extensive conservatories and 
 gardens, and the beautiful pinetum, 
 deserve especial notice ; they were 
 laid out by the Rev. Sir Thomas and 
 Lady Cullum. 
 
 {d.) Barton Hall (Sir Charles Bun- 
 bury, Bart.), 3 m. from Bury, con- 
 tains an excellent collection of pic- 
 tures of the English, Flemish, and 
 
 Italian schools, most of which, ex- 
 cept the family portraits, Avere col- 
 lected by Sir Henry Edward Bun- 
 bury, the 7th Baronet. There is 
 also here a large collection of the 
 drawings of Mr. Bunbury (grand- 
 father of the present proprietor), 
 whoso ' Humorous Sketches of Men 
 and Manners' (Bunbury's Carica- 
 tures) are celebrated : but he was 
 not less distinguished for the grace, 
 refinement, and beauty of his designs 
 in pastoral scenes and in his ' Illus- 
 trations of Shakespeare.' 
 
 The house was originally built by 
 Eobert Audley about the beginning 
 of the 17th centy. It was much 
 added to by Sir William Bunbury 
 and his son Sir Thomas Charles 
 Bunbury, who built the fine library 
 about 1770, after a design of Sir 
 William Chambers'. The dining- 
 room and other improvements were 
 added by Sir Henry Edward Bun- 
 bury about 1823. In the pleasure- 
 grounds opposite the house are 2 old 
 oak-trees known in the village by the 
 names of Gog and Magog. In a 
 map of the parish of the 16th centy. 
 they are distinguished as the Oalis. 
 Sir Thomas Charles Bunbury, so 
 celebrated in the fashionable and 
 sporting world as the winner of the 
 first Derby in 1780, and also of the 
 Derby both in 1801 and 1813, lived 
 here. His brother, Mr. Bunbury, 
 lived in a small house in the grounds, 
 which has since been jDulled down. 
 Here he and his beautiful wife, 
 Catherine Horneck (" Little Co- 
 medy,") and her sister Mary (the 
 " Jessamy Bride,") often entertained 
 Goldsmith: — "The Doctor greatly 
 enjoyed himself at Barton, — suffering 
 with imperturbable good humour 
 the tricks played upon his dress, 
 upon his smart black silk coat 
 and expensive pair of ruffles — above 
 all upon his wig." — " He sung comic 
 songs with great taste and fun, — he 
 was inventive in garden buildings 
 and operations, over whicli he blun- 
 dered amazingly ; and if there was 
 
136 
 
 Mmite 3. — Barton Hall : Pictures — Ixworth. Sect. II. 
 
 a piece of water in any part of the 
 grounds lie commonly managed to 
 tumble into it," . . . Yet "everybody 
 in tliat circle respected, admired, and 
 loved him/' — {Forsters ' Life of Gold- 
 smith '). 
 
 North-east of the hall is an ar- 
 boretum, which Sir H. E. Bimbury 
 began to form in 1824 out of o pad- 
 docks which had been occupied by 
 his uncle's racehorses. 
 
 The most remarkable jiicturcs arc 
 the following : — 
 
 Dim'ng Boom. — Portrait of Mrs. 
 Gwyu (Mary Horneck, the " Jessamy 
 Bride,") Sir Joshua Reynolds; por- 
 trait of Mrs. Bunbury (Catherine 
 Horneck, "Little Comedy"), Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds ; Mr. Bunbury, the 
 caricaturist, as a boy, Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds ; Francis Horner, M.P., Sir 
 Henry Raehurn ; Ambrozio Sj^inola, 
 Buhens — from theGallery of the Duca 
 di Pasqua Vivaldi at Genoa — very 
 fine; copy by Dominichino of the 
 Bacchus and Ariadne, by Titian, 
 now in the National Gallery; St. 
 Francis di Paula, Guercino ; Game 
 and fruit, Weenix. Billiard Room. — 
 3 pictures by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 
 viz., Mrs. Horneck, the Plymptou 
 Beauty, and mother of IMrs. Bun- 
 Ijury and ]Mrs. Gwyn; Sir Thomas 
 Charles Bunbury ; and Mrs. Ken- 
 nedy, an actress ; Sir Thomas Han- 
 mer, cupbearer to Charles I., Van- 
 dych ; interior of a village school, 
 Ostade; a Dutch lady. Van der 
 Heist, very fine ; a Holy Family, Sasso 
 Ferrate ; a Boy with Cherries, Faolo 
 Veronese. Library. — Lady , Sarah 
 Bunbury (afterwards Lady Sarah 
 Napier) by Sir Joshua Reynolds; a 
 very beautiful picture. (This was 
 the Lady Sarah Lenox whose singular 
 loveliness is said to have won the 
 heart of George TIL, and all but 
 placed an English queen on the 
 throne. She was one of Sir Joshua's 
 favourite sitters.) Lady Blake, Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds ; Mr. Horneck, 
 Bamsay. Drawing Room. — Virgin 
 
 and Child, Correggio, from the Duca 
 di Pasqua Vivaldi's gallery at Genoa, 
 for one of whose ancestors it was 
 painted ; portraits of the 2 Miss 
 Horneeks, by Sir Joshua, a beauti- 
 ful sketch : " Exquisitely refined in 
 dra'sving, and delicate in pearly gray 
 half tones." — Leslie. Archduke Leo- 
 l^old on horseback, Duchatel ; Prince 
 of Orange on horseback, Gonsalez 
 Coquez; 2 beautiful Dutch Winter 
 Scenes, Van der Neer; Assumption 
 of the Virgin, Vandyck f or Ruhens ? 
 from Pius VH.'s gallery; Cottage 
 Scene, an early picture by Mulready ; 
 Pilgrims at a Slirine, Velvet Breughel; 
 the Philosopher, Quentin Matsys ; 
 Morning Concert, Watteau. Study. — 
 Tlio well-known portrait of Master 
 Bunbury, Sir Joshua ; View of the 
 Grand Canal at Venice, by Canaletto ; 
 White Horse, Building, and Figures, 
 by Dirk Stoop. Staircase.. — The 
 Rivers, by Paul de Vos ; portrait of 
 Sir Thomas Hanmer, tlie SjDeaker, 
 and the editor of Shakespeare, by Sir 
 Godfrey Kneller ; portraits of Sir 
 Henry North and his daughter, Mrs, 
 Holland, by Sir Peter Lely ; por- 
 trait of a Lady, by Hudson (the 
 scholar of Eichardson and master of 
 Reynolds). 
 
 The collection of books was begun 
 by Sir Thomas Hanmer, the editor 
 of Sliakespeare, who left in the 
 library fine editions of Shakespeare, 
 Cowley, Pope, Gay, Prior, &c. His 
 nephew, Sir William Bunbury, added 
 to it, but the present valuable library 
 was princiiJaJly formed by Sir H, E. 
 Bunbury. It is especially rich in 
 historical works, but also contains 
 valuable books relating to military 
 history and natural history. There 
 is also a fine collection of engravings. 
 
 The Church of Great Barton, dedi- 
 cated to the Holy Innocents, is 
 worth a visit. The chancel is E. 
 Eng. ; the nave, aud remaining por- 
 tion, Perp. There is a fine tower. 
 
 [At Txicorth, 4 m. beyond Barton, 
 on the same road, an Augustiniaii 
 
Suffolk. Boute 3. — Bar dwell — Foniham St. Genevieve. 137 
 
 Priory was founded by Gilbert de 
 Bluud, about the year 1100. Tbero 
 are no remains. Ixworth Ch., ■whicli 
 belonged to the Abbey of Bury, is 
 almost entirely Perp. The tower 
 was begun by Kobert Sehot (or 
 Coote {?). He is sometimes called 
 Robert of Ixworth), who became 
 Abbot of Bury in 1470. The crown 
 and arrows of Bury, with Abbot 
 Schot's name, ajDpear on one of the 
 panels. Against the N. wall of the 
 chancel is the moniunent of Richard 
 Codington (died 1567) and wife, to 
 whom the Priory was granted by 
 Henry YIII. There are small brasses 
 against the wall, beneath a curiously 
 ornamented circular arch, and above 
 an altar tomb. It is a good example 
 of its time, with arabesques and 
 scrolls. The ch. was restored in 1854. 
 Ixworth stands on the line of a Roman 
 road (the Ikenild Way), and the 
 remains of a Roman villa have been 
 found here. Mr. Warren at the post- 
 office has a large collection of coins 
 and antiquities which have been 
 found in this parish, and in those 
 of Stowlangtoft and Pakenham. 
 
 Bardwell Ch., 2i m. N. of Ixworth, 
 is Dec. and Perp., but has been 
 throughout restored. The nave roof, 
 which is good, is said to have been 
 (like other portions of the ch.) the 
 gift of Sir William Bardewell (born 
 1367, d. 1434), one of those " soldiers 
 of fortune " who were then numerous, 
 "Various accounts are preserved of 
 the terms of the contracts he made 
 for the service of his men-at-arms, 
 and archers on horseback ; the money 
 to be paid for them, and the houclie 
 de court, or domestic board, to be 
 allowed them." — A. P. Dunlop. Sir 
 William's figure in stained-glass 
 remains in one of the nave windows ; 
 and a sword, said to have been his, 
 hangs on the N. wall. In restoring 
 this ch. (1853) numerous wall paint- 
 ings were foimd, and were re-covered 
 with plaster, after careful tracings 
 liad been made. For an ample de- 
 
 scription, 8ee 'Proceedings of Suff. 
 Arch. Inst.,' vol. ii.] 
 
 The tumpiko road from Bury to 
 Thetford (12 m.) is not very interest- 
 ing; though at Ingham a "^ fine view 
 S. is commanded. 
 
 i m. 1. of the road, 2 m. from 
 Bmy, is 
 
 Fornliam St. Genevieve, on a hill. 
 Robert de Beaumont, Earl of Lei- 
 cester, rose against Hen. II., was 
 routed, fled the land, and retm-ned 
 in 1173 with an army of Flemings. 
 From Framlingham {see that Castle, 
 Rte, 5) they marched towards St. 
 Edmundsbury, and at Fornham St. 
 Genevieve were met by Chief Justice 
 Richard de Lucy, who, aided by 
 Humphrey de Bohun, and other 
 barons, drove all, Earl, Countess, and 
 Flemings, into or beyond the river 
 Lark, still stagnant in those parts. 
 The Countess of Leicester's gold 
 ring (or one supposed to have been 
 hers) was there found in these later 
 times, and various skeletons with 
 cleft heads. The 7 great hills, still 
 remaining, are locally said to mark 
 the tombs of the leaders, and the 
 lesser and very numerous mounds 
 those of the common soldiers. These, 
 however, are in all probability Celtic 
 barrows. The actual field of battle 
 was near the ch. (but the enclosure 
 formerly called " Le Camping Close," 
 and thought to have been so named 
 with reference to this fight, was 
 no doubt a field set apart, as else- 
 where in Norfolk and Suffolk, for the 
 game called Camping (A.S. camp, a 
 conflict) a very rough kind of foot- 
 ball, now almost extinct). At John's 
 Hill, near this, and just above the 
 ancient ford of the river, the skeletons 
 already mentioned were found, to- 
 gether with culinary articles, and 
 some pennies of Hen. II. The Duke 
 of Norfolk had a seat here (Fornham 
 Park), now belonging to W. Gil- 
 strap, Esq. In the grounds are some 
 remains of the parish ch, destroyed 
 by fire in 1782, 
 
138 
 
 Boute 3. — Fornham All Saints — Ampton. Sect. II. 
 
 The Ch. of Fornham All Saints, on 
 the 1. bank of the Lark, has E. Eng. 
 portions — an early Dec. chancel with 
 good windows, and Pcrp. N. and S. 
 aisles. At Bahwell, in this parish, 
 stood a convent of Franciscans, 
 founded by Richard Earl of Glou- 
 cester and Gilbert his son, in 1205, 
 after the friars had in vain attempted 
 to establish themselves within the 
 town of St. Edmundsbury. (For the 
 history of their struggle with the 
 monastery, which is curious, see 
 Gage's ' Hist, of Thiugoe Hundred '). 
 Parts of the walls of inclosure re- 
 main, and the fish ponds may be 
 distinguished. 
 
 Near the little village of Ingham 
 (4 m.) the road is bordered by the 
 trees and jilantations of Ampton (rt.) 
 and Culford (1.). 
 
 A)npton (Hunter Eodwell, Esq.) 
 was from the Dissolution the seat of 
 the Calthorpes, whose descendants in 
 the female line exchanged the name 
 of Gough for that of Calthorpe in 
 1788, and are now represented by 
 the 5th Baron Calthorpe. In the 
 CJi., which is Perp., is the tomb 
 of Sir H. Calthorpe, ''made by 
 John and Matthias Christmas, who 
 also carved the great ship built by 
 Pett at Woolwich, 1637." Mrs. Do- 
 rothy Calthorpe, 1693, left behind 
 her a good work in the shape of an 
 almshouse for ancient maidens. 
 
 Livermere Park (Miss Broke) 
 joins Ampton, and the two owners 
 have united to form a fine sheet of 
 water, and to construct a handsome 
 bridge, common to both domains. 
 Troston, next to Livermere, was the 
 residence of Capel Lotft, Esq., who 
 is locally celebrated for his kindness 
 to the author of the ' Farmer's Boy.' 
 
 Opposite to Ampton, 1. of the road, 
 is Culford (Rev. E. R. lienyou). The 
 house was built, 1591, by Sir Nicholas 
 Bacon, Premier Baronet of England, 
 and inherited by Iiis younger son Sir 
 Nathaniel, enumerated by Walpole 
 among the English painters. The 
 
 painter has a bust in the ch., with a 
 pallet and bruslies. Here also is a 
 seated figure of Lady Bacon, evidently 
 by the same sculptor as the figui'o 
 of the great Bacon, Lord Verulam, 
 in St. Michael's Ch. at St. Alban's. 
 Tiie ch. was rebuilt by. Sir Stephen 
 Fox. The estate came to the Corn- 
 wallises by devise, and was by them 
 sold, 
 
 W. of Culford, and close to the 
 park, is the brick mansion of *West 
 Stow, a manor which belonged to the 
 Abbots of Bury, until the Dissolution, 
 when it was granted to Sir John 
 Croftes, who had belonged to the 
 household of Mary Tudor, Queen- 
 dowager of France, and Duchess of 
 Suflblk. Sir John built the hall, and 
 the gatehouse, on which he placed 
 the arms of his former mistress. In 
 an upper room are some distemper 
 paintings of the time of Elizabeth. 
 This gatehouse, which has flanking 
 towers, capped with cupolas, is the 
 most interesting portion of the build- 
 ing. Most of the quadrangle of the 
 house is pulled down, and the re- 
 mainder is used as a farm-house and 
 buildings, but the chimneys and vari- 
 ous details in brick still remain 
 tolerably perfect, and are worth atten- 
 tion. The Ch. of West Stow, for the 
 most part E. Eng., has been restored 
 under the direction of Mr. Butter- 
 field. 
 
 8 J m. Bariiliam St. Gregory. The 
 ch. is Dec. but of no great interest. 
 
 1 m. 1. is Elision Park (Duke of 
 Grafton, to whom it descended from 
 the marriage of his ancestor, the 1st 
 duke, Henry Fitzroy, son of Charles 
 II., with Isabella, daughter and 
 heiress of Sir Henry Bennet, Earl of 
 Arlington, and one of the A's of the 
 Cabal ministry. It is a large, good, 
 red-brick hou.'se, with stone quoins, 
 built by Lord Arlington in the reign 
 of Charles II., and without any pre- 
 tensions to beauty, except from its 
 position in a well timbered and well 
 watered park. Evelyn was much at 
 
StJFFOLK. 
 
 Boute 3. — 'BarnJiam — Eiiston Parh 
 
 139 
 
 my Lord Chamberlain's (Arlington) 
 at Euston, and was concerned in 
 the planting of " tufts of fir and 
 much of the other wood." — {Diarij, 
 1G77). " My Lord himself," he says, 
 " who built the house and restored 
 the church (most of the houses of 
 God in this country resembling 
 rather stables and tliatched cottages 
 than temples in which to serve the 
 Most High) was given to no expen- 
 sive vice but building, and to have 
 all things rich, polite, and princely." 
 The house contains some family 
 and other portraits ; James I., and 
 Anne of Denmark, whole lengths, 
 by Jansen ; George Villiers Duke 
 of Buckingham, by 3Iytens ; Bar- 
 bara Villiers Duchess of Cleveland, 
 mother of the 1st Duke of Grafton ; 
 James Duke of York and Anne 
 Hj'de, and Henry Earl of Arling- 
 ton, by Leiy ; Duke of Monmouth 
 in armour, Charles I. and the Marq. 
 of Hamilton, copied from Vandyck, 
 by Jervis. Verrio's first frescoes 
 in England were executed for Lord 
 Arlington at Euston, in 1671. 
 " Euston," wrote Walpole in 1753, 
 "is one of the most admired seats 
 in England, in my opinion, because 
 Kent has a most absolute disposition 
 of it. Kent is now so fashionable 
 that, like Addison's "Liberty," he 
 
 "Can make bleak rocks and barren moun- 
 tains smile." 
 
 I believe the duke wishes he could 
 make them green too. The house is 
 large and bad ; it was built by Lord 
 Arlington, and stands, as all old 
 houses do, for convenience of water 
 and shelter, in a hole ; so it neither 
 sees nor is seen : he has no money to 
 build another. Tlie park is fine, the 
 old woods excessively so : they are 
 much grander than ]Mr. Kent's pas- 
 sion, — clumps ; that is, sticking a 
 dozen trees here and there till a lawn 
 looks like the ten of spades," Its 
 scenery was the theme of the Sufiblk 
 poet, Kobert Bloomfield, a native of 
 the neighboming village of Honing- 
 
 ton, where his father was a tailor, 
 and his mother kept a dame's school : 
 at Sapiston he commenced his 
 'Farmer's Boy,' and has conmie- 
 morated the country — 
 
 " ^Vllere noble Grafton spreads his rich do- 
 mains 
 
 Round Euston's watered vale and sloping 
 plains; 
 
 Where woods and groves in solemn gran- 
 deur rise, 
 
 Where the kite brooding unmolested flies ; 
 
 The woodcock and the painted pheasant 
 race, 
 
 And skulking foxes destined for the chace.' ' 
 
 Within the park on an emi- 
 nence is the temple designed by 
 Kent (1746) as a banqueting house. 
 The Euston estate is not less than 
 40 m. in cu'cuit, and includes many 
 villages and hamlets, together with 
 Fakenham Wood, of more than 300 
 acres, the largest in the county. 
 
 1. in Sutfolk, is Elveden Hall, the 
 property of the Maharajah Dhuleep 
 Singh. 
 
 At 12 m. from Bury, after crossing 
 some open ground on which are many 
 barrows, we reach 
 
 Thetford. (See Norfolk, Ete. 12. 
 The great mound and entrenchments 
 are passed 1. in entering the town). 
 
140 
 
 Raute 4. — Sudbury to Cambridge. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 ' EOUTE 4. 
 
 SUDBURY TO CAMBRIDGE BY CLARE 
 A2sD HAVERHILL. 
 
 {Branch line of Great Eastern Bail- 
 way. The distance is 31 in.) 
 
 From Sudbury (see Essex, Rte. 8) 
 to Long Melford this route is the 
 same as Rte. 3. At Long Melford 
 it branches 1. following for some 
 distance beyond Claro the N. bank 
 of the Stour. 
 
 The first station beyond Long Mel- 
 ford is 
 
 5f m. from Sudbury, Glemsford, a 
 village which has some silk manu- 
 factures, of the same character as 
 those of Sudbmy. The Ch. is chiefly 
 late Perp. ; but nave and chancel 
 aisles are E. Eng. 
 
 A very fine row of poplars should 
 be noticed close to 
 
 2 m. Cavendish Stat. (The ch. 
 and village are seen rt.). This was 
 the cradle of the noble family of 
 Cavendish, who resided here, from 
 the time of their supposed off-shoot 
 from the house of Gernon, until then' 
 removal, imder the influence of Eliza- 
 beth of Hardwick, to Chats worth. Li 
 the chancel of the cb. was buried 
 Chief Justice Sii' John Cavendish, 
 beheaded by Wat Tyler's mob. His 
 younger son, John, an esquire to 
 Eichard II., is said to have slain that 
 sturdy rebel. Sir Wm. Cavendish, 
 father of the 1st Earl of Devonshire, 
 was the last of the name who resided 
 here. 
 
 The Church, which is good, is for 
 the most part Perp., but has portions 
 of older work. The nave clerestory 
 is lofty Perp. The nave has a fine 
 flat timber roof ; the chancel ceiling 
 is Perp., boarded and panelled. The 
 
 tower is late E. Eng. with a vaulted 
 lower story. In the second story is 
 an original fireplace ; and the two- 
 light windows here are formed to 
 receive shutters, which still remain. 
 The vestry contains a good Dec. 
 chest. 
 3 m. beyond Cavendish we reach 
 
 Clare St^t J Inn: Bell. Pop. 1G57). 
 The town stands upon the N. side of 
 the Stour, in Suflblk, and is chiefly 
 famous for the great baronial family 
 to whom it gave name. (The signi- 
 fication of the name is uncertain. 
 But it seems to be the same word 
 that is found in Claren-don in Wilt- 
 shire, and in the Yorkshire Wapen- 
 take of Claro.) The rly. station is 
 actually within the outworks of the 
 castle, and fragments of wall are 
 seen beyond it. The mounds and 
 dykes of the outer coui'ts are passed 
 in entering the town. 1. is the keep 
 mound, in order to climb which, 
 the hey must be asked for at one 
 of the first houses, 1. The outer en- 
 trenchments of the castle enclosed 
 a very considerable space ; and it 
 may perhaps be doubted whether the 
 great earthen dykes and the lofty 
 mound are not relics of more ancient 
 days than those of the Norman Earls, 
 or their Saxon predecessors. (See 
 Castle Acre, Norfolk, Rte. 7). The 
 keep mound 100 ft. high, is covered 
 with brushwood and coppice. A 
 winding path leads to the top, where 
 is a fragment of wall, circular within, 
 and without rendered polygonal by 
 l-l angular buttresses (as at Castle 
 Acre). A curtain wall extends do^^^^ 
 the hill side, as at Tamworth, Wind- 
 sor, and formerly at Cardifi". These 
 fragments date perhaps from the 
 13th centy. ; but they are of little 
 architectural importance. The castle 
 occupies the angle formed by the 
 junction of the Chilton river with 
 the Stour. (The present channel of 
 the Stour is comparatively modern. 
 The ' old river,' so called, ran S. of 
 both priory and castle.) When per- 
 
bCFFOLK. 
 
 Houte 4:.— Clare : Castle. 
 
 141 
 
 feet, it consisted of 2 courts or 
 "baileys," of somewliat irregular 
 form, and separated by a wide and 
 deej) ditch. The keep moimd was 
 at the N.W. angle of the inner bai- 
 ley. Shattered and imperfect as 
 they are, however, it is impossible 
 to visit without interest the site of 
 the great stronghold of the Earls 
 of Clare, whose power was so widely 
 extended from the Conquest until 
 the early part of the 14th centy. 
 There had been a fortress here before 
 the Conquest ; and within it was a 
 chapel, ded. to St. John the Baptist. 
 Eichard Fitz-Gilbert, who fought 
 with William at Hastings, received 
 fi-om him this manor of Clare, to- 
 gether with that of Tonbridge; he 
 was slain in Wales and buried at St. 
 Neots. (II.) Gilbert of Tonbridge, 
 His son, was a considerable bene- 
 factor to the ch. He annexed the 
 Chapel of St. John, in the castle, to 
 the Xorman Abbey of Bee. One of 
 his sons founded Tintern Abbey, 
 and another (grandson of the first 
 Gilbert de Clare), best known as 
 Strongbow, conquered Ireland, and 
 bore, for one generation, the titles 
 of Striguil and Pembroke. (HI.) 
 Eichard, eldest son of Gilbert, and 
 called De Clare, was Earl of Hert- 
 ford, and died 1139, leaving (IV.) 
 Gilbert de Clare, 4th from the Con- 
 quest who died 1151, and was buried 
 at Clare. His brother (V.) Eoger 
 became 3rd Earl of Hertford. To 
 him succeeded his son and heir (VI.) 
 Eichard Earl of Hertford, and, in 
 right of his wife, of Gloucester. He 
 was a conservator of Magna Charta : 
 and was bm-ied, 1211, at Clare. (VII.) 
 Gilbert, his successor in the two 
 earldoms, was buried at Tewkesbury, 
 as were (VIII.) Eichard his son and 
 heir, and (IX.) Gilbert sumamed the 
 Eed, who married Joan of Acres, 
 daughter to Edward I. and sister to 
 Edward II.,who attended her funeral 
 in 1307, at Clare. Their sou (X.) 
 Gilbert, Earl of Hertford and Glou- 
 cester, fell at Bannockburn without 
 
 issue, and his possessions came to 
 his sister. 
 
 The castle descended from the 
 Clares to a Brugh, whose heiress 
 married Lionel, Duke of Clarence. 
 Philippa, their heiress, married Ed- 
 mund Mortimer, whose grandson, 
 the last of his family, found the 
 castle in good repair and well 
 stocked with furniture, when he 
 came of age in 1412. On his death, 
 in 1425, it came to his nephew 
 Eichard, afterwards Duke of York, 
 father of Edward IV. The castle, 
 coming to the crown with Ed. IV., 
 continued so vested till it was granted 
 by Ed. VI. to Sir John Cheke. It 
 does not appear that it was ever 
 besieged or that it suffered at any 
 time from war. Wlien the walls 
 were demolished is not known. 
 
 The character of the surrounding 
 country is well seen from the keep 
 mound. It is wooded and undulat- 
 ing, though never rising into hills of 
 any height. The Stour here runs 
 through a decided valley. Across 
 the river is seen the ivy-mantled 
 Priory (see post.}. The passage of 
 the Stour must have been important 
 at this place ; since the castle (to 
 whatever date we assign the mounds) 
 was evidently meant to defend it. 
 
 In 1866, during the formation of 
 the rly., whilst the labourers were 
 cutting down part of the enceinte of 
 the inner bailey (where the rly. stat. 
 now stands), a small gold crucifix 
 and chain were found, and are now 
 in the possession of Her Majesty. 
 The cross is Ih in. long, the chain 
 2 ft. The plate bearing the figure 
 of the Saviour may be removed, and 
 under it is a small cavity containing 
 2 minute fragments of wood and 1 
 of stone (granite). These are pro- 
 bably relics. The date of the cross 
 is very uncertain, perhaps the 14th 
 centy. A curious brass ornament, 
 probably a pectoral cross, with Greek 
 inscriptions, was found here in 1797, 
 and is figured by Mr. Albert Way in 
 
142 
 
 Bouie 4. — Clare : Chirch ; Old Houses. Sect. II. 
 
 his notice of the cross and chain, 
 ' Archfeol. Instit. Journal,' vol. xxv. 
 The title of " Duke of Clarence" ; 
 that of the " Clarencienx " Herald ; 
 and the name of Clare County in 
 Ireland are all derived from this 
 great house of Clare. " The terri- 
 tory of which the Earl of Clare was 
 feudal chief would be called in Latin 
 Clareniia, and in Norm. Fr. Cla- 
 rence (comp. Provence from Pro- 
 vincia, Florence from Florentia, 
 France from Francia, &c.)"' — J. W. 
 Donaldson. After Lionel of Ant- 
 werp, 3rd son of Ed. III., married 
 Elizabeth, the heiress of Clare, in 
 1354, he was, in the Parliament of 
 1362, formally created iJaJie of Cla- 
 rence. (He died in 1368, and was 
 buried in the Priory Gh. here.) 
 There have since been 3 Dukes of 
 Clarence : Thomas, son of Hen. IV. ; 
 George, brother of Ed. IV. ; and 
 Wm. Henry, son of Geo. III., after- 
 wards Wm. IV. The title of Cla- 
 rencieux Herald, according to Noble, 
 is not older than the French wars of 
 Hen. v.. who had a preference for 
 the herald of his brother, as consta- 
 ble of his army. It may, however, 
 be more ancient, and in Dr. Donald- 
 eon's opinion was the plural form of 
 Clarencel, meaning a feudal adherent 
 of the house of Clare, and was given 
 to the herald with reference to the 
 enormous possessions of that house. 
 The name of Clare was first given to 
 the Irish county in the reign of 
 Eliz., when the district was divided 
 into 3 counties : Ijimerick, Tipper- 
 ary, and Clare. Eicliard de Clare 
 ( Strongbow) first introduced English 
 into that part of Ireland ; and Tlio- 
 mas de Clare, son of the 2nd Earl 
 of Gloucester, became possessed of 
 a large tract of land there about 
 1267. The name of the family seems 
 to have been retained in Ireland 
 until Elizabeth's division. 
 
 The Ch. of St. Peter and St. Paul 
 deserves a visit, although much de- 
 faced with galleries. It is for the 
 
 most part Perp. ; but the lower part 
 of the tower is E. Eng. The details 
 of the Perp. nave arches should be 
 noticed ; and on the exterior, the 
 lofty pinnacles of the rood turrets. 
 There is some good old woodwork, 
 including doors, and a plain chest. 
 Dowsing, the East Anglian Icono- 
 clast, here destroyed "1000 super- 
 stitious pictures." There are some 
 fragments of stained glass in the E. 
 window. Edmund Mortimer, Earl 
 of March, and heir to the crown after 
 Picli. II., was buried in this ch. 
 
 *' Under a house in Market-street 
 there is a square crypt, vaulted, with 
 an octagonal shaft in the centre, and 
 smaller shafts at the angles and sides ; 
 the original entrance is from the 
 street. Many of the houses in the 
 town contain Perp. woodwork, and 
 various good chimney shafts. The 
 Bear Inn, and a house at the W. end 
 of the churchyard are among the 
 best." 
 
 In front of the Swan Inn is an 
 ancient sign representing a white 
 swan chained, and other figures. 
 The shields on eitlier side are those 
 of France and England, of Mortimer 
 and De Brugh. It seems to have 
 been erected during a period of truce 
 between the houses of York and 
 Lancaster. 
 
 There is a so-called Boman Camp 
 on the common pasture adjoining the 
 town. (It may be reached by pass- 
 ing between the t\YO inns, the Half 
 IMoon and the Swan, and then turn- 
 ing rt. by a wall). This is a large 
 bqnure enclosm-e, with a single 
 vallum and deep trench. It may, 
 perhaps, have been the " camping 
 close " of the town, — the enclosure 
 used for the old game of "camping" 
 — a rough foot-ball. 
 
 Across the Stour, S.W. of the 
 town, are some remains of a Priory 
 of Austin Friars, founded in 1248 
 by Richard de Clare, Eaii of Glou- 
 cester, and converted to domestic 
 uses about the time of Jas. I. " The 
 principal remains consist of a large 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boute 4. — StoJce — Keddington. 
 
 US 
 
 liall, forming the present house, with 
 an ancient staircase attached, a large \ 
 building, originally of two storeys, j 
 now a barn, and various walls. They ! 
 appear to be of early Perp. date." i 
 The house is now a school. Eichard \ 
 de Clare, the founder of this house, j 
 first brought these " eremites " to 
 England, and they were greatly 
 favoured by the lords of the neigh- 
 bouring castle. Joan of Acres, the 
 2nd child of Ed. I. and Eleanor of 
 Castile, was buried here in 1307 ; 
 her brother, Ed. II., and most of the 
 great nobles being present at her 
 funeral. She had married Gilbert 
 de Clare in 1290 ; her husband died 
 in 1295, and Joan afterwards made 
 a mesalliance with Ealph de Mon- 
 thermer, a squire of Earl Gilbert's. 
 The king was very angry, but being- 
 reconciled, made her husband Earl 
 of Athole. She soon died. A curious 
 dialogue between a regular and a 
 secular at the tomb of Joan of Acres 
 is printed in Dugdale, Mo7i. Angl. 
 vi., 1600. Richard de Ch^re is thus 
 mentioned : — 
 
 " jSTobilis et narclus redolens fuit iste Ricardns 
 Qui quos dilexit, lieremitas trans mare vexit, 
 Ordinis egregii l^octoris, nomen et illi 
 Augustiuub erat." 
 
 2 m. from Clare is 
 
 Stolie Stat. The Ch. is chiefly 
 Perp., and contains some good wood- 
 work, but is of no great interest. 
 Here was a college of secular priests. 
 Eichard de Clare (1124) removed to 
 this place the Benedictine monks, 
 whom his father had established in 
 his castle of Clare, and had made 
 subject to the Abbey of Bee in 
 Normandy. This alien priory was 
 made denizen in 1395 ; and in 1415 
 Edmund Mortimer, Earl of IMarch, 
 changed it into a college of secular 
 i:»riests. This Priory or College 
 became about 1660 the property of 
 Sir Gervase Elwes, and is now held 
 by his representative, J. E. Elwes, 
 Esq. It is famous as the seat of 
 two celebrated misers, Sir Hervey 
 Elwes (d. 1763), grandson of Sir 
 
 Gervase; and his nej^hew and suc- 
 cessor, John Meggot (d. 1789), 
 who took the name of Elwes. The 
 latter died worth more than half a 
 million sterling; and liis various 
 eccentricities and parsimonies are 
 too well known to need recording 
 here. He died at Marcham in Berk- 
 shire, the old seat of the Meggots, 
 having represented that county in 
 three successive parliaments. It does 
 not appear whether it was at Stoke 
 or at Marcham that Elwes was once 
 found pulling down a crow's nest for 
 firing. 
 
 Beyond Stoke the rly. crosses the 
 Stour, and passes through a pro- 
 jecting corner of Essex, with a station 
 at 
 
 3 m. Stunner Stat. The little ch. 
 here is Norm, and E. Eng. 
 
 It then returns into Suffolk, at 
 
 2 m. Haverhill Stat. This is a 
 straggling town, of little interest. 
 The ch. is chiefly Perp. 
 
 \Keddington Tusually called Ket- 
 ton) Ch., 2i m. N.E., is Dec. (chancel) 
 and Perp. (nave), with a very fine 
 roof, stretching in one span over 
 nave and aisles. In it are many 
 Jacobean and later monuments of the 
 Barnardistons, wJio settled here about 
 the year 1500. Sii' Thomas Barnar- 
 diston, temp. Hen. VIII., has a 
 monument here, with effigies of him- 
 self and wife. Above it was a window 
 with their portraits, and those of 
 their 7 sons and 7 daughters. This 
 was removed in the middle of the 
 last century (when such things were 
 possible) and placed in Brenteleigh 
 Plall, the seat of Edward Goate, Esq., 
 who had married Mary Barnardiston. 
 The Barnardistons were at one time 
 the most important family in this 
 part of the country. They are first 
 traced in the neighbouring parish 
 of Barnardiston in the reign of Eich. 
 1. Besides Keddington, they were 
 lords of Great Cotes in Lincolnshii-e, 
 where some are bmied. Such names 
 as Nathaniel and Pelatiah occurring 
 
144 
 
 Boute 5. — Ipswich to Yarmouth. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 in the genealogy indicate the Pui-itan 
 tendencies of the Barnardistons, wlio 
 were indeed celebrated during tlie 
 reigns of Elizabctli, James, and 
 Charles for their own piety, and for 
 their liberal supjiort of Puritan minis- 
 ters. It was a Samuel Barnardiston 
 to whom the name of " Koundhead " 
 was first applied. The queen Hen- 
 rietta Maria saw him from a window, 
 among the London apprentices, who 
 were carrying the petition "for 
 peace" to the parliament in 1641, 
 His hair was cut short like theirs, 
 and the queen exclaimed " See, what 
 a handsome round head is there." 
 The story is in Kapin, ii., 403. 
 " There is," he says, " no other known 
 origin of the name ' Eoundhead,' 
 which from this time was given to 
 the Parliamentarians." Sir Thomas 
 Barnardiston, at the time of the 
 restoration, modified his opinions; 
 and, for his assistance then, was 
 made a baronet by Charles II. The 
 estates became greatly encumbered ; 
 and, after the death of Sir Samuel 
 Barnardiston in 1754, Keddington 
 Hall was pulled down, and the pro- 
 perty was afterwards sold. Tillotson 
 was for a short time rector of Ked- 
 dington.J 
 
 , EOUTE 5. ■ 
 
 IPSWICH TO YARMOUTH, BY V*'OOD- 
 BRIDGE, [ORFORD, ALDBOROUGH, 
 FRAMLINGHAM] AND LOWESTOFT. 
 
 (Great Eastern Railway.^ 
 
 Shortly after leaving Ipswich, this 
 rly. branches rt. fi'om the line, which 
 proceeds to Stowmarket and Bury 
 St. Edmund's (Rte. 6). The first 
 stat. is 
 
 2\m.. Westerfield, where is a small 
 Dec. ch. of no great interest. The 
 Ch. at Tuddenham, 1 m. E., will 
 better repay a visit. It has a Dec. 
 chancel and a Perp. nave, on the N. 
 side of which is a Xorm. doorway. 
 " The whole of the original open 
 seats remain, with their rich panel- 
 ling and heads in good preservation. 
 The pulpit has also some good panel- 
 ling, which appears' to have been 
 originally devoted to some other pur- 
 pose. The font is very fine Perp., 
 an octagon, with rich jjanelling and 
 figures round the pedestal, and angels 
 in the panels of the bowl." — Arch. 
 Topog. of Suffolk. 
 
 [The Ch. of Bushmere, 2 m. E. of 
 Ipswich, and about the same distance 
 S. of Westerfield, has a round tower, 
 apparently of E. Eng. date]. 
 
 Shortly before reaching the next 
 stat., the little Perp. Ch. of Play ford 
 (built by Sir George Felbrigge in 
 the 14th centy.) is passed rt. The 
 doorway of the tower, with rich fiiut- 
 work above it, deserves notice. In 
 the chancel is the very fine hrass of 
 Sir George Felbrigge, the founder, 
 d. 1400, an excellent example of 
 the armour of this period. In the 
 quiet churchyard is buried Thomas 
 Clarkson, known for his share in 
 
SuFFOLIi. 
 
 itoute 5. — Woodhridge : Priory, 
 
 145 
 
 procuring the abolition of slavery. 
 He died at Playford Hall, the old 
 residence of the Feltons, in 1846, aged 
 86. The present hall was built in 
 the 16th centy. by the Feltons. The 
 older house had been the home of 
 the Felbrigges. 
 
 6J m. Beatings Stat. The Ch. of 
 Great Bealings, principally Dec, has 
 some flint panelling worth notice. 
 That of Little Bealings is uninterest- 
 ing. In the former parish many 
 Eoman luns have been found. Seck- 
 ford Hall, near Woodbridge, now a 
 farmhouse, was built by Thomas 
 Seckford in the reign of Elizabeth, 
 and has been a fine mansion. The 
 hall remains nearly unaltered. 
 
 At 9| m. we reach 
 
 Woodhridge (Inn : Bull ;) a towu 
 of 4513 inhab., remarkable for the 
 long narrow street up which the old 
 high road from Ipswich passes. It 
 stands 10 m. from the sea, on the rt. 
 bank of the Deben, where are quays, 
 accessible for small vessels by which 
 the trade in corn and coals is carried 
 on. The fine Ch. is throughout early 
 Perp., with good open roof, and no 
 arch or other distinction between 
 nave and chancel. It is said to have 
 been rebuilt by John Lord Segrave, 
 and his wife, Margaret of Brotherton, 
 temp. Edward III. The lofty (108 
 ft.) and noble tower, of panelled flint 
 and white stone, enriched with vari- 
 ous devices, demands special atten- 
 tion, as does the very fine N. porch. 
 In the spandrels of the porch are 
 Michael and the dragon — a favourite 
 subject in Suffolk — and over the por- 
 tal 3 crowned saints in niches — the 
 Virgin in the centre, supported by 
 St. Helena and St. Etheldreda. 
 The famous Dowsing was very active 
 here. Suffolk has the honour of 
 having produced this iconoclast of the 
 17th centy., and the name may still 
 be read on many tombstones in 
 Woodbridge churchyard. 
 
 Here is a noble foundation by 
 
 \_Essex, c&c] 
 
 Thomas Seckford, master of requests 
 in the reign of Elizabeth, who left, 
 in 1578, large estates situated in 
 Clerkenwell, London, to endow cha- 
 rities at Woodbridge. He is buried 
 in a chapel erected by himself on the 
 N. side of the chancel. Various in- 
 scriptions and brasses were stripped 
 from his tomb by Dowsing. Seck- 
 ford's Almshouse for 2G poor men, 
 with 6 nurses, has lately been re- 
 built ; it is a long structure of red 
 brick, in the Tudor style, with a 
 chapel in the centre. The endowed 
 Grammar School was also founded by 
 Thomas Seckford, and has also been 
 rebuilt. He was the proprietor of 
 Woodbridge Priory, a house of Au- 
 gustinian canons, founded by Sir 
 Hugh Rouse toward the close of the 
 12th centy. At the Dissolution the 
 site and lands were granted (1534) 
 to Sir Anthony Wyngfield, who died 
 without issue. In 1564 they were 
 regranted to Thomas Seckford, in 
 whose family it remained for more 
 than a centy. They passed by will 
 (1676) to the Norths of Beuacre, 
 and from them by will (1711) to the 
 Carthews of Cannalidgy, a very an- 
 cient Cornish family. The repre- 
 sentative of a younger branch of 
 the Carthews (Peter Carthew, Esq.) 
 purchased the property in 1S65, 
 and is its present owner. There 
 are some passages and foundations 
 which may perhaps have belonged 
 to the priory ; but the present man- 
 sion, called Woodbridge Abbey, built 
 by Seckford in the reign of Elizabeth, 
 occupies the same site. 
 
 The poet Crabbe was apprenticed 
 to a surgeon in this town ; and here 
 lived and wrote Bernard Barton, the 
 Quaker poet. 
 
 [The Ch. of Grundishurgh, 3 m. on 
 the road between Woodbridge and 
 Debenham, is Dec. and Perp., and 
 contains a fine Dec. rood-screen. 
 
 At Newbourn, about 6 m. S. of 
 "Woodbridge on the rt. bank of the 
 estuary, i-s a large Dec. Ch. of some 
 
146 Boute 5. — Bendlesliam Kail — Builey Priory . Sect. 11. 
 
 interest. The estuary of the Deben, 
 which commences a Httle above 
 Woodbridge, is quite uninteresting, 
 and has none of the picturesque 
 beauty wliich (hstinguishes that of 
 the Orwell. The little Dec. Church 
 of Ramsholt, on the 1. bank, has ii 
 round tower, which is ai:)parently 
 late E. Eng. Peyton Hall of which 
 some ruins exist in this parish, was 
 the seat of the UfFords, Earls of Suf- 
 folk (see post, Ufford."] 
 
 [The peninsula between the Deben 
 and what is called the Butley river, 
 a creek that runs up beyond Butley 
 Abbey, is rich in pits that have been 
 excavated in the red crag formation, 
 and in which the characteristic fossils 
 are found. There are large pits at 
 Sutton, Hollesley, and Alderton, but 
 they are numerous everywhere along 
 the coast. Tliey have been dug for 
 the purpose of obtaining coprolite (see 
 Jw^rorf., ' Geology ') which abounds 
 here, and is exported from the De- 
 ben in large quantities. Septaria, or 
 cement stones, are dredged for along 
 the coast. 
 
 The churches of this district are of 
 no great interest. That of Alderton, 
 long in ruin, was partly (the nave, 
 which is Dec.) restored in 1840. 
 The early Perp. tower is still a 
 very picturesque ruin. Alderton 
 was the rectory of Giles Fletcher, 
 whose poem of ' Christs Victory and 
 Triumph ' is hardly better known 
 than that of his brother Phineas, 
 ' The Purple Island.' Both were 
 imitators of Spenser, and b(jtli were 
 true poets, althoiigh they lo.st tliem- 
 selves in that allegorical style which 
 Spenser had made popular. Giles 
 Fletcher died and was buried at 
 Alderton in 1623. John Fletcher, 
 the dramatist, was his cousin.] 
 
 [The archrcologist should visit, 
 either from Woodbridge or from Aid- 
 borough, the remains of Orford 
 Castle. From Aldborough Orford is 
 distant 7 m. (about 5 by sea— see 
 
 Aldborough, post.) It is 12 m. from 
 Woodbridge. Butley Abbey may bo 
 visited on tlie way, and the drive is 
 through an open and pleasant coun- 
 try, very different from the greater 
 part of Suffolk. 
 
 Proceeding from Woodbridge, the 
 road crosses tlie Deben at Wilford 
 Bridge, where is a rather pretty 
 view looking back toward Wood- 
 bridge. It then traverses a wide 
 tract of open country, abounding in 
 rabbits, and very pleasant in the 
 spring, when furze, wild hyacinths, 
 and clumps of white-thorn give bright 
 colour to these " w^alks " (sheep 
 walks) as such open land is hero 
 called. Eendlesham Hall (Lord Ren- 
 dlesham) is passed about 3 m. 1. 
 (The Ch. of Eendlesham deserves 
 notice for its fine Dec. E. window, 
 the tracery of which is very rich and 
 peculiar. Windows of the same date, 
 with excellent tracery, remain in the 
 Ch. of Fylie, about 1^ m. N. of the 
 road, and on the road to Eendles- 
 ham). Staverton Park, a great 
 game preserve (there is no house) 
 rich in old wood and so-called 
 "coveys" (covers?) of younger trees, 
 borders the road, and a track marked 
 by some picturesque firs turns off rt. 
 to Butley. 
 
 Butley Priory was founded in 
 1171 for Augustinian canons, by 
 Eanulph Glanville, Chief Justice of 
 England. At the Dissolution its an- 
 nual value was 318?. 17s. 2d. It was 
 then granted to Thomas, Duke of 
 Norfolk, then to the family of Forthe, 
 and has since passed through various 
 hands. It is now the property of 
 Lord Eendlesham. 
 
 The c] alehouse of the Priory is the 
 most important portion remaining. 
 It now serves as the incumbent's 
 residence, and has been much da- 
 maged in the process of conversion. 
 It is a fine Dec. building of flint and 
 stone. Over the entrance are 35 
 shields of arms, witli a window and 
 niche above. The Priory itself is 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boitte 5. — Orford Castle. 
 
 147 
 
 now a farmhouse, and has been so 
 pulled to pieces that little except 
 foundations and rough walls remain. 
 Wliat appears to be the W. window 
 of the ch. (its tracery is gone) exists, 
 and there is a stone coffin or two. 
 In the Priory ch. was buried Michael 
 do la Pole, the Earl of Suffolk who 
 fell at Agincourt in 1415. Many 
 horns of oxen are found here in the 
 peat, and oyster shells occur every- 
 where, a proof that the Augustinians 
 did not despise those crustaceans. 
 Their country then abounded in game 
 almost as much as at present, and 
 gifts of pheasants and wild fowl are 
 frequently recorded as sent from the 
 prior to my lord abbot at Bury. 
 
 Mr. Crisp, the late occupier of 
 the Priory farm, was famous as a 
 breeder of Suflblk horses, bullocks, 
 sheep, and pigs. Tlie aminals to be 
 seen here are well worth notice. 
 
 Biitley Ch., which has a Norm, 
 portal, was restored in 1867, but is of 
 little interest. 
 
 The great keep of Orford is seen 
 from Butley, towering above the low 
 shore lands. The head of the Butley 
 river must be rounded in order to 
 reach it ; but the country is still 
 pleasant, with large furze commons, 
 and the woods of Sudborne Hall 
 (Marquess of Hertford). These are 
 passed shortly before entering 
 
 11m. Orford (Inn: "White Hart; 
 but the visitor must be content with 
 very simple accommodation at Or- 
 ford). This is a decayed corporate 
 town, with a mayor, portmen, and 12 
 burgesses, though reduced to a scat- 
 tered village, with a pop. of 948. 
 The creek or haven, on tlie W. bank 
 of which it is built, is in reality tlie 
 lower course of the river Aide, which 
 turns suddenly S. after passing Ald- 
 borougli, and falls into the sea below 
 Orford, at Hollesley Bars. (The Aide 
 receives the river Ore near Snapc 
 Abbey, but is itself generally called 
 the Ore below Aldborough). The 
 river is separated from the sea by a 
 
 narrow tongue of sand. It was once 
 an useful harbour, but is now com- 
 pletely choked, to the ruin of the 
 prosperity of Orford, which was con- 
 summated by the passing of the first 
 Reform Bill, under which the place 
 lost its 2 seats in Parliament. 
 
 An earldom of Orford was created 
 by William III. in favour of Admiral 
 Eussell, who died childless in 1727. 
 The earldom was revived in the per- 
 son of Sir Robert Walpole in 1742 ; 
 but upon the death of Horace, fom'th 
 earl (the famous letter writer) with- 
 out issue, it was conferred in 1806 
 upon Horace, second Baron Walpole, 
 of Wolterton, whose descendant is 
 the present Earl of Orford. 
 
 The Co.stle and Ch, should both 
 be visited. Of the earlier history of 
 the Castle little has been ascertained 
 with certainty. The site was one of 
 considerable defensive importance ; 
 since, when the haven was service- 
 able, Orford was a convenient land- 
 ing-place fi-om Flanders. Accord- 
 ingly the defence of this part of the 
 coast was no doubt the object with 
 which the castle was at first built. 
 Tlie manor of Sudborne, in which 
 Orford Castle stands, was one of 221 
 manors in Suffolk granted by the 
 Conqueror to Robert Malet, who may 
 very probably have been the founder 
 of "the Norm, stronghold. But the 
 existing keep must have been the 
 work of one of the descendants of 
 Peter de Valoines, to whom the 
 manor was given by Henry I. after 
 the attainder of Robert Malet. Ac- 
 cording to Dugdale the house of 
 Valoines made Orford the capital 
 seat of their barony. They retained 
 it until the year 1204, when Hugh 
 Bigod and John Fitz Robert were 
 made joint governors of Orford and 
 of Norwich Castles. Hubert de 
 Burgh succeeded them in 1215 ; and 
 after the battle of Lewes in 1264, 
 the barons made Hugh le Despencer 
 governor of Orford. In the 4th of 
 Edward III., Robert de Ufford, (who 
 married Cecilia, dau. and coheir of 
 
 H 2 
 
148 
 
 Boute 5. — Orford Castle and Church. Sect. II. 
 
 Eobert de Valoines,) had a grant of 
 the town and castle. It has since 
 passed through the hands of Wil- 
 loughb3^s, Stanhopes, and Devereux, 
 and now belongs to the Marquess of 
 Hertford. 
 
 The Castle Keep, which alone re- 
 mains, occupies the summit of a lofty 
 mound, surrounded by 2 deep ditches 
 with high walled ramparts, much of 
 which has, however, been carried off 
 by vessels for ballast. In plan the 
 keep is a circle, with 3 square towers 
 projecting like buttresses, and dates 
 to all appearance from the time of 
 Stephen or Henry II. There are 4 
 stories, including the battlemented 
 roof. The main entrance on the 
 first floor, reached by an external 
 flight of stejjs, is by a curious oblique 
 arch, formed by ribs resting on cor- 
 bels on one side, but dying away on 
 the other. Within this are 2 an- 
 gular-headed arches of stones joggled 
 into one another. Under the en- 
 trance are 2 dungeons (or cellars ?) 
 without windows, which must have 
 been entered by ladders through the 
 lloor from above. Over the entrance, 
 on a level with the second floor, was 
 a chapel, now without floor or roof, 
 but retaining the altar recess, and a 
 round-headed wall arcade. 
 
 Within the actual keep, the lowest 
 story seems to have served as a cellar 
 or storehouse. That above it, ou a 
 level with the entrance, has but few 
 lights, and was probably a guard- 
 room or common hall. A stair in one 
 of the flanking towers leads to the 
 third story, which was roofed and 
 floored in 1831 by the late Marquess 
 of Hertford. It now serves as a 
 dining-room for picnic parties. This 
 was the principal apartment within 
 the keep ; having a chimney, and on 
 3 sides a circular arch, enclosing a 
 2-light window. In one of the flank- 
 ing towers, eutered from this apart- 
 ment, was a kitchen, with a large 
 chimney, the back of which is of 
 brick in herruig-bone work. Each 
 floor has its garderobe, and there are 
 
 small sleeping chambers in the thick- 
 ness of the wall. Above the third 
 story, and opening from the stair, 
 is a small dove-cot, with squared 
 holes ; and above again, in one of 
 the turrets opening on the battle- 
 ments, is an oven, perhaps for melt- 
 ing lead to discharge on the heads 
 of assailants, perhaps for the more 
 pacific purpose of baking bread. 
 The view from the battlements ex- 
 tends over Orforduess, the 2 Hght- 
 houses, and Sudbourne Park, and 
 includes Aldborough and the top 
 of Southwold steeple. The keep 
 is built of flint and cement-stone, 
 except the lower part and the 
 quoins, which are of neat ashlar 
 masonry wrought in Caen stone. 
 The Castle is thought to have stood 
 in the middle of the old town, and 
 many lanes and fields, now without 
 houses, retain the name of streets. 
 (Engravings and plans of Orford 
 Castle will be found in King's ' Mu- 
 nimenta Antiqua.' It should be 
 compared throughout with the keep 
 of Coningsborough Castle in York- 
 shire, nearly of the same date, and 
 having much the same ground plan. 
 Orford is, however, mucli larger 
 than Coningsborough, and the flank- 
 ing towers are more important). 
 
 The Ch. (or Chapel -Orford is a 
 chapelry attached to Sudborne) — is 
 Dec, and has a fine window at the 
 end of the S. aisle. The font is 
 Perp. and curious, carved with the 
 symbolic emblems of the Four Evan- 
 gelists, while, on the W. side, appears 
 the First Person of the Haly Tri- 
 nity, holding in His arms tlie cruci- 
 fix ; and on the E. side the Virgin 
 and Child, much mutilated. At the 
 end of the S. aisle is a monument 
 to the memory of Francis Mason, d. 
 1621, chaplain of JamesL, and author 
 of many works in defence of the 
 English Church and her orders. He 
 was long rector of Sudborne. At the 
 E. end of the cli., and now excluded 
 from it, are the ruins of the chancel, 
 a late Norm, structui-e, consisting 
 
Suffolk." JRoiite 5. — Ufford — WicMam Marlcet. 
 
 149 
 
 only of 7 Norm, piers. "The re- 
 maining work is very fine, and quite 
 unlike anything of the sort to be seen 
 in the country ; the piers and arches 
 have a very great variety of orna- 
 mental detail. Of the former some 
 are composed of clusters of shafts, 
 others are more massive, with a pro- 
 jecting spiral band running round 
 them ; most of this work is in very 
 good preservation." — Arch. Topog. of 
 Suffolk (Parker). It is of the same 
 date as the Castle, and the character 
 of the ornamental work resembles 
 that at Pittington near Durham, in 
 Durham Cathedral, and at Waltham 
 Abbey. It seems peculiar to the E. 
 side of England. 
 
 A curious story, relating to Or- 
 ford, is told by Ralph of Coggeshall 
 (abbot of the monastery there in the 
 early part of the 13th centy.) (See 
 Essex, Rte. 2.) Some fishermen on 
 this coast (a.d. 1161) caught in their 
 nets one stormy day a monster re- 
 sembling a man in size and form, 
 bald-headed, but with a long beard. 
 It was taken to the governor of Or- 
 ford Castle, and kept for some time, 
 being fed on raw flesh and fish, 
 •which it " pressed with its hands " 
 before eating. The soldiers in the 
 Castle used to torture the unhappy 
 monster in divers fashions " to make 
 him speak ; " and on one occasion, 
 when it was taken to the sea to dis- 
 port itself therein, it broke through 
 a triple barrier of nets and escaped. 
 Strange to say, not long afterwards 
 it returned of its own accord to its 
 tortures and captivity ; but at last, 
 " being wearied of living alone,'' 
 it stole away to sea and was never 
 more heard of. A tradition of this 
 monster, known as " the wild man of 
 Orford," still exists in the village. 
 
 On the Lantern Marshes, a portion 
 of the spit of land extending between 
 the river Aide and the sea, are 2 
 lighthouses. A very considerable 
 sum has lately been expended on 
 them, and_ they are now among the 
 finest in England. The point of 
 
 land between them is Orforflness. 
 On Havergate Island, nearer the 
 entrance of the haven, is a small 
 sheep-farm protected by mud-banks ; 
 but not so efficiently as to prevent 
 the breaking in of high floods, which 
 have more than once drowned all the 
 sheep. 
 
 Besides the lighthouses, the Keep 
 of Orford serves as a guide to ships 
 coming from Holland, and it was for 
 this reason that the Government in- 
 terfered to save it in 1805, when the 
 second Marquess of Hertford proposed 
 to pull it down. The appearance of 
 the Keep from the sea, backed by the 
 woodland of Sudborne, is very strik- 
 
 Eeturning to the E. Suffolk Ely., 
 the first stat. beyond Woodbridge is 
 
 lOf m. Melton, where the Ch. con- 
 tains a good Perp. font. (A small 
 new ch., Dec. in character, was conse- 
 crated here in 1868). 
 
 [At Vford, 1 m. N., an interesting 
 Perp. Ch., is a font " with a very 
 splendid pyramidal cover of open 
 tabernacle work, surmounted by the 
 pelican, with the original painting 
 and gilding. There are very fine 
 bench-ends and poppies." — Arcli. 
 Topog. of Suffolk. Ufford was de- 
 scribed by Weever, the collector of 
 ' Sepulchral Memorials,' as the " most 
 neatly polished little ch. in the dio- 
 cese." The place gave name to the 
 family of Uftbrd, of whom Robert of 
 Uftbrd was created Earl of Suflblk 
 (11th Edwaid HI.). His son, who 
 succeeded him, died without issue 
 in 1382 ; and in 1385 Michael de la 
 Pole was advanced jto the earldom. 
 
 llrf m. Campsey Ash Stat. This 
 is the stat. for 
 
 Widcham Marhet, 2 m. 1. An 
 omnibus meets some of the trains. 
 The spire of Wickham Market is 
 seen from Campsey Ash Stat. The 
 greater portion of the Ch. is Dec, 
 
150 
 
 Boiite 5.' — Parham — Framlingham. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 The font (Dec.) is very excellent. 
 The tower, wliich is octagonal (the 
 upjier part and spire Perp.) has a 
 fine doorway on the S. side. It 
 serves as a sea-mark. The compo- 
 sition of the W. end of the nave 
 should also be remarked. 
 
 From Wickham a branch line 
 passes 1. to Framlingham (7| m.). 
 
 If m. Marlesford. Here is a small 
 Dec. ch. of no great interest. 
 
 About 5 m. W. is Letheringham, 
 where is a ch., also Dec, which will 
 better repay a visit. Between it and 
 Marlesford is Easton Hall (Duke of 
 Hamilton). At 
 
 4J m. we reach the stat. at Par- 
 ham, where are some remains of the 
 old hall of the Willoughbys. These 
 are apparently of the 15th centy., 
 and stand within a deep moat. The 
 gateway is later — a Tudor building — 
 bearing, among other shields, those 
 of the Uifords and Willoughbys. 
 The Ufford Earls of SuJiblk were 
 lords of Parham, which, on the death 
 of the last earl (oth Kichard II.) 
 passed to the childi-en of Cicely, 
 his eldest sister, wife of John, 3rd 
 Lord Willoughby of Eresby. Y/il- 
 liam, Lord Willoughby, died in Suf- 
 folk in 1501, and was buried at 
 Mettingham (Rte. 9). Among his 
 lordships was Parham. His daughter 
 Catherine was his sole heiress. Her 
 wardship was granted to Charles 
 Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and she 
 afterwards became his wife. Her 
 2nd husband was Richard Bertie of 
 Berstcad in Kent. He was a Re- 
 former ; and had to fly with his wife 
 from the Marian persecution. During 
 their w^anderings their son Pere- 
 grine, afterwards Lord Willoughby 
 of Eresby, was born in the porch of 
 St. Willebrord's Ch. at Wesel in 
 Germany. He served in the Low 
 Countries in 1586 and following 
 years, and is the ' brave Lord Wil- 
 lougliby ' of the baUad — 
 
 " ' Stand to it, noble pikemen, 
 
 And fence ye well about, 
 And sboot ye sharp bold bowmen, 
 
 And we will keep them out. 
 Ye muskets and caliver men 
 
 Do ye prove true to me, 
 "We'll be the foremost in the fight,' 
 
 Said brave Lord Willoughby." 
 
 (See the whole in the ' Suffolk Gar- 
 land,' Ipswich, 1818.) 
 
 The Ch., built by the last Ufford, 
 Earl of Suffolk, is for the most part 
 Perp., and contains a fine rood- 
 screen, with much of the original 
 painting remaining. George Crabbe 
 married his wife, the " Mira " of his 
 poetry, from Parham Lodge. Cross- 
 ing the Aide, which flows through 
 this valley, we reach 
 
 Tim. Framlingham {Inn : Crown 
 and Anchor ; gigs and horses kept). 
 Pop. 2552. This is a very ancient 
 town (the name, as Kemble suggests, 
 may mark a settlement of the Fram- 
 lingas — found also at Framlington 
 in Northumberland), with a good 
 deal of historical and antiquarian 
 interest. 
 
 Framlingham is said (but there is 
 no good authority for the statement) 
 to have been a stronghold of the E. 
 Anglian kings ; and St. Edmund, it 
 is asserted, was besieged here by the 
 Danes before his martyrdom in 870. 
 The history of the site becomes cer- 
 tain after the Conquest. In 1103 
 Framlingham was given by Henry I. 
 to Roger Bigod ; and with certain 
 intervals it continued in the hands 
 of the Bigods (who were Earls of 
 Suffolk) until the 25th Edward I., 
 when that great house became ex- 
 tinct, and Framlingham was given 
 by the king to his son Thomas of 
 Brotherton, Earl of Norfolk and 
 Marshal of England. Under the 
 Bigods, Framlingham Castle had 
 experienced sundry changes. In 
 1173, when the sons of Henry II, 
 rose against their father, Hugh Bi- 
 god was the most jDowerful of 
 the rebels in Suftblk or Norfolk ; 
 and the Earl of Leicester, after land- 
 ing with his Flemings at Walton, 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boufe 5. — Framlingliam Castle. 
 
 151 
 
 near Felixstowe, mado liis way at 
 once to Framlingliam, where be re- 
 mained some days before besieging 
 and taking Haugbley Castle (held 
 for the King — see Ete. 6) and ad- 
 vancing toward Leicester. At Forn- 
 ham St. Genevieve he was attacked 
 and routed (see Ete. 3). In 1174, 
 Henry II., returning to England, 
 proceeded toward Framlingham, and 
 encamped at ' Seleham ' (Syleham 
 on the Waveney — see Ete. 9), where 
 Hugh Bigod '' made peace with him," 
 and surrendered his castles of Fram- 
 lingham and Bungay. Both tliese 
 castles w^ere dismantled (rex fecit 
 sternere) by the King's orders in 
 1170. (For the history of this re- 
 volt the best authorities are Ealph of 
 Diss, and the so-called " Benedictus 
 Abbas.") Framlingham seems to 
 have been soon repaired or rebuilt, 
 since, in 1215. King John attacked 
 Eoger Bigod here, and the Castle was 
 delivered without resistance. But 
 it was soon restored to the Bigods. 
 
 From Thomas of Brotherton, 
 Framlingham passed, through liis 
 daughters, to Edward de Montacute, 
 and through his daughter, who 
 married William de Ufford, Earl of 
 Suffolk, to the Mowbrays, Dukes 
 of Norfolk. From them it came to 
 the Howard dukes. The second 
 duke of this house, the victor of 
 Flodden, died in Framlingham Castle 
 in 1524, and was buried at Thetfurd. 
 The third duke, who so narrowly 
 escaped execution by the death of 
 Henry VIII. , lived here in great 
 splendour; and though he died at 
 Kenninghall in 1554, he was buried 
 in Framlingham Ch. (See post). 
 In 1635 the Castle and park, with 
 the advowson of the living, were 
 bought by Sir Eobert Hitcham, who 
 died in the following year, leaving 
 the whole " to the use of the Master 
 and Fellows of Pembroke Hall, in 
 Cambridge,'' in whose hands it still 
 remains. 
 
 The Castle was held for short 
 periods by Sir Thomas Erpingham, 
 
 the *• old Sir Thomas " whose " good 
 white head " — (see Hen. V., Act. iv. 
 Sc. 1) — figured at Agincourt ; and 
 by Henry V. liimself when Prince of 
 Wales. On the death of Edward 
 VI. and the setting up of Lady 
 Jane Gray, Queen Mary retired first 
 to Kenninghall, and thence came to 
 Framlingham, intending to escape 
 to Flanders if it should be necessary. 
 The Duke of Northumberland ad- 
 vanced against her as far as Bury 
 St. Edmund's, but thence retreated 
 to Cambridge. In the mean time the 
 cause of Mary had prospered, and she 
 proceeded to London. 
 
 The existing remains of the Ca&tlo 
 date chiefly from the time of Thomas 
 of Brotherton. Considerable changes 
 were made, however, by the second 
 Howard Duke, to whom must be as- 
 signed the chimneys of moulded 
 brick, the Perp. windows, and the 
 main gateway. The great court of 
 the Castle, entered by this gateway 
 (which has above it the shield of 
 the Howards, quartering the arms 
 of Brotherton, Mowbray, and others) 
 is of irregular form, surrounded by 
 an unbroken wall, and studded at 
 intervals with towers open on the in- 
 terior side. These numerous towers 
 rising above the wall, the thick 
 masses of ivy, and the deep moat 
 full of trees and brushwood, make 
 the ruin very pictui'csque, especially 
 on the exterior. The walls are 44 
 ft. high, and it is possible to get on 
 them by a staircase at the end of 
 tne courthouse. This is a building 
 on the W. side of the court, of Tu- 
 dor date, and now serving also as 
 a school. Foundations of the great 
 hall and chapel have been traced 
 on the E. side. Without, the Castle 
 was surrounded by 2 deep moats. 
 There was a sallyport or barbican 
 on the W., near the main entrance ; 
 and a bridge and postern, carried 
 on piers across the moat, on the E. 
 The view near this postern is very 
 picturesque, and aflbrds an excel- 
 lent subject for the skotcher. On 
 
152 
 
 JRoute 5. — Framlingliam Church. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 this side the valley was anciently 
 converted into a great lake by 
 damming up the stream running 
 through it, which thus filled the 
 mo: it and added materially to the 
 strength of the fortress. A cause- 
 way, commanded from tlie ramparts, 
 led across the lake to the barbican. 
 The site of the lake is still marked 
 by marshy ground. 
 
 The Park, which extended N. of 
 the Castle, and is now divided into 
 farms, was formerly celebrated for 
 its noble trees. According to Eve- 
 lyn, Suliblk, and Framlingliam espe- 
 cially, produced the tallest and largest 
 oaks in the world. That which sup- 
 plied the beams for King Charles's 
 great ship, the 'Royal Sovereign,' 
 built at Woolwich in 1637, grew at 
 Framlingham, and was 4 ft. 9 in. in 
 diameter. It yielded 4 beams each 
 44 ft. long. 
 
 The *Ch. is a fine and very large 
 edifice, surmounted by a tower, 96 
 ft. high, of flint and rolled stone. 
 " Much of the work in nave and 
 aisles is Dec. ; the piers octagonal, 
 ^vith good moulded caps. The win- 
 dows in tS. aisle 2-lights, in square 
 heads, with very curious tracery ; 
 clerestory, Perp. with good win- 
 dows, and a fine timber roof. . . . 
 The tower is Perp., with a fine 
 arch. . . . The W. doorway is very 
 good. It is within a square head, 
 and in the spandrels are St. Michael 
 and the dragon. . . . The chancel 
 and chapels are Perp." — Arch. Topog. 
 of Suffolk. The font, Perp., has 
 emblems of the Evangelists on the 
 bowl, and on the base lions, with 
 "salvages" bearing clubs between 
 them. The ch. contains the follow- 
 ing highly interesting monuments. 
 (1) On the S. side of the altar, an 
 altar-tomb (1554), in the style of the 
 Eevival, with well-executed statues 
 of the Apostles (marked by their em- 
 blems), our Saviour, and Moses, in 
 niches about it. It is surmounted by 
 the effigy of Thomas Howard, tliird 
 Puke of Norfolk (father of the Earl of 
 
 Surrey) who saved his head only by 
 the sudden death of Henry VIII. 
 He has a very long beard, and by 
 his side is his Duchess, both wearing 
 their robes and coronets. This mo- 
 nument is very rich, of freestone, 
 and has never been painted. (2; The 
 black marble slab beyond it, sup- 
 ported on the shoulders of 4 an- 
 gels, is the monument of Sir Eo- 
 bert Hitchara, mentioned above (d. 
 1636.) Of this it is conspicuously 
 recorded that " Fr. Grigs fecit, anno 
 1638." The angels are of alabaster, 
 with the faces, &c., painted. (3) On 
 the 1. (N.) of the altar, Plenry Fitz- 
 roy Duke of Richmond, natural son 
 of Henry VIII. by Eliz. Talboys— 
 the friend of the Earl of Surrey, 
 and contracted to his sister, who 
 died 1536, aged 17, is buried be- 
 neath a table-tomb, surmoimted at 
 the corners by angels bearing the 
 symbols of the Passion. A small 
 frieze of very curious sculptures in 
 relief, representing events from the 
 Old Testament — Adam and Eve, 
 Noah's Ark, the Pillar of Salt, and 
 others — runs round the top of the 
 tomb ; and below are coats of arms. 
 (4. 5.) Next to this are tombs with 
 effigies of the 2 Ducliesses of Thomas 
 4th Duke of Norfolk, in robes and 
 coronets, and a small tomb of a daugh- 
 ter of the same Duke. (6; The most in- 
 teresting monument, however, though 
 its eftect is greatly injured by the coat- 
 ing of coarse paint with whicli it is 
 covered, is that in the N. aisle, of 
 Henry Howard Earl of Surrey, the 
 learned poet, and the most gallant and 
 accomplished knight at the English 
 court, whose virtues aroused the jea- 
 lousy of Henry VIII., and led to the 
 Earl's death upon the scaftbld, 1547, 
 only 8 days before that of the tyrant 
 himself. The monument is of black 
 and white marble. Surrey and his 
 Countess are represented recumbent, 
 with hands raised in prayer. On one 
 side is his coronet, in front the kneel- 
 ing effigies of their 2 sons (one of 
 whom, afterwards Duke of Norfolk, 
 
Suffolk. Bte. 5. — Albert Memorial College-^Dennmgton. 153 
 
 perished, like his father, ui^on the 
 scafiuld, under Elizabeth, iu 1572 — ■ 
 the result of his intrigues in favour 
 of the "old religion," and in support 
 of Mary of Scotland), and on the other 
 side those of their 3 daughters. This 
 monument was erected 67 years after 
 Surrey's death by Henry Howard 
 Earl of Northampton. All these 
 monuments are in excellent preser- 
 vation. 
 
 On a hill about I m. from the 
 village is the Albert Memorial Middle 
 Class College, commenced iu 1863 as 
 a memorial of the late Prince Con- 
 sort. It is a large and picturesque 
 building {F. Peck, archt.) of red 
 brick with stone dressings ; excel- 
 lently arranged, and in a most 
 healthy situation. Tl^e College, which 
 enjoys, and deservedly, a considerable 
 reputation, provides a thorouglily 
 good education for boys of the middle 
 classes, and now (1868) contains 
 about 260 from different parts of 
 England. There is a small but 
 pretty chapel, and on the terrace in 
 front of the building a fine statue of 
 the Prince Consort by Durham, in 
 bronze, on a pedestal of Scotch 
 granite. It was the gift of T. Lucas, 
 Esq. The view from the terrace, 
 with the Castle and Ch. Tower 
 rising from fine masses of trees, is 
 worth seeking. The College is 
 sliown, but not during school hours. 
 
 [The Ch. of Dennmgton, 2^ m. N. 
 of Framlingham, by a pleasant walk 
 across fields, — 3 m. by the road — 
 should on no account be left un- 
 visited by the ecclesiologist. The 
 chancel and nave are Dec. ; the 
 clerestory of the nave, porch, and 
 aisles, Perp. The fine chancel win- 
 dows are filled with good tracery, 
 and much of the original stained 
 glass remains. In the S. wall are 
 two piscinas, one of which has very 
 curious tracery, and sedilia, with 
 rich angular spandrels and fine pin- 
 nacles. There are 3 windows on 
 either side of the chancel, The heads 
 
 terminating their outer mouldings, 
 and the capitals of their slender side- 
 shafts, carved with animals, owls, 
 and leafage, are most delicate and 
 striking. What remains of the 
 stained glass has some good cano- 
 pies, and fine ornamental leafage in 
 the traceries. " The chancel arch is 
 very fine ; the shafts forming the re- 
 sponds come down very low, and are 
 terminated by rich knots of foliage. 
 . . . . The open seats in the nave 
 are perhaps, with the exception of 
 those at Saxfield, the finest in the 
 county ; they have rich poppy heads, 
 and an almost endless variety of 
 panelling ; but the finest speci- 
 mens of woodwork in the church are 
 the parclose screens at the end of 
 each aisle, with the lofts above. The 
 date is about 1450. It would be 
 difficult to find more beautiful speci- 
 mens than these screens." — Arch. 
 Top. of Suff. The woodwork of the 
 screens is unusually light, far more 
 so than Devonshire work of the same 
 period. (Devon shhe and the Eastern 
 Counties are the richest in England 
 in such wood -work.) The lofts 
 above are narrow galleries, with 
 double rails. Within the parclose, 
 at the end of the S. aisle, is the very 
 fine tomb, with canopies and effigies 
 of Lord Bardolph, d. 1439, and wife, 
 d. 1445. Sir William Phelip, the 
 head of an ancient family long settled 
 at Dennington, acquired the title of 
 Lord Bardolph, by marriage with the 
 heiress of that house. The effigies 
 are excellent examples of their 
 period. The letters I H S are on 
 the front of Lord Bardolph' s chapel 
 de fer, which is wreathed. He 
 wears a collar of SS, and the Garter 
 on his left leg. His wife has 
 the horned head-dress, with rich 
 nets, and a coronet. This Lord Bar- 
 dolph served in the French wars 
 under Hen. V., and was chamber- 
 lain to Hen. VI. He founded a 
 chantry, where his tomb remains, in 
 the chapel of St. Margaret, His wife 
 left by will a " purple gown, with 
 
 H 3 
 
154 
 
 jRoute h.'^Laxfield — Leision Abbey. Sect. II. 
 
 small sleeves," to adorn the Easter 
 sepulclire in tbis church. In the 
 same chantry is a monument, with 
 small kneeling figures, for Sir Thos. 
 Kous, d. 1603. There is also a 
 large Perp. tomb under the S. win- 
 dow, and the sides of the window are 
 decorated with blank shields. In 
 the chancel is the matrix of a large 
 brass, a knight temp. Ed. III. 
 
 At Laxfield, about 4i m. N. of 
 Bennington, is a very good Dec. and 
 Perp. Ch., with some fine Dec. glass 
 remaining in the nave windows. 
 The rood-screen, which almost equals 
 that at Dennington, has been re- 
 moved to the W. end of the ch. The 
 bench ends, poppy heads, and backs 
 of the seats, are even finer than those 
 at Dennington. The font is espe- 
 cially fine, " an octangular bowl, 
 with rich canopies, under which 
 are groups of figures ; the steps are 
 finely arranged, the risers panelled." 
 The Ch. of Cratfield, 2. m. further N. 
 (Dec. with Perp. additions), contains 
 a very fine Perp. font, much muti- 
 lated. Figures of apostles on 
 brackets and under canopies sur- 
 round the stem ; and the seven Sacra- 
 ments are sculptured in the panels 
 above. In the vestry is a fine oaken 
 chest, with the inscription — 
 
 " Ragor Walsche gaf tbys cheist : 
 Pray for his sowle to Jhu Clireist."] 
 
 Passing Little GlemJiam Hall and 
 park, the seat of the Hon. Mrs. 
 North — (in the park are some very 
 fine oaks; the ch., which is modern, 
 contains a full-length statue of the 
 late Dudley North, Esq., sculptured 
 in Italy)— the railway reaches 18 J 
 m. Saape, where the enriched Perp. 
 S. porch of the ch. deserves notice. 
 The font, also Perp., is good. S. of 
 the village are some scanty remains 
 of Snape Priory, founded for Augus- 
 tinian Canons in 1099, by William 
 Martel. It was one of the small 
 religious houses suppressed, in 1524, 
 
 by Wolsey, for the endowment of his 
 College at Ii)swich. Before reaching 
 21 5 m. Saxmundham, the line 
 passes Hurts Hall (Wm. Long, Esq.), 
 a large mansion of white brick. 
 Saxmundham itself (a small market- 
 town; pop. 1222), contains nothing 
 to detain the tourist ; the S. doorway 
 of the Ch. and some parts of the 
 tower are plain, very early Norm. 
 
 From Saxmundham a branch line 
 passes to Aldhorouyh, with an inter- 
 mediate station at Leision, where 
 are the picturesque ruins of Leiston 
 Abbey, originally founded by Eanulph 
 de Glanville, grand Justiciary of Eng- 
 land, in 1182, for Premonstratensian 
 Canons. The existing remains are 
 of more recent date — (end of 14th 
 centy. ; the house was destroyed by 
 fire in 1389, and the present remains 
 are — for the most part, but not en- 
 tirely — later) : they consist of the 
 choir and transepts of the ch., with 
 some lofty pointed windows. A 
 farm-house occupies the site of the 
 nave. On the S. side were the clois- 
 ters, having on the E. the chapter- 
 house and abbot's lodge ; on the S. 
 the refectory, retaining its noble W. 
 window. W. of the cloister a curious 
 octagonal tower of brick rises in 
 advance of the building — its use is 
 unknown. The Abbey was at first 
 founded near the sea ; but was 
 removed to its present site by Robei-t 
 de Uflbrd in 1363. 
 
 The ch. of Leiston, thatched, like 
 many in Sufiblk and Norfolk, con- 
 tains an E. E. font, and a rude oak- 
 chest, of early character. 
 
 At Leiston are the very extensive 
 iron toorhs (covering 10 acres) of 
 Messrs. Garrett, established in 1778. 
 Agricultural machinery and imple- 
 ments, steam engines, &c., are made 
 here. 
 
 Bending S.E. the line speedily 
 reaches 
 
 Aldhoi-ough, or Aldeburgh. (Lnns : 
 White Lion, on the beach ; New Inn.) 
 This place, with a pop. of 1721, 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boute b.-^Aldhorougli. 
 
 155 
 
 stands on a tongue of land between 
 the sea-sbore and tbe estuary of the 
 Aide and tbe Ore, a " broad" (mere 
 or pond), wbicb, after approaching 
 within 100 yards of tbe sea, turns 
 suddenly S. at this spot, and only 
 actually joins it after a further 
 course of 9 miles, at Hollesley, below 
 Orford. Aldborougb is a small sea- 
 port and fishing station, and has be- 
 come a place of some resort within 
 the last 20 or 30 years, for sea- 
 bathing. A number of lodging- 
 houses and a few villas have conse- 
 quently sprung up. There is how- 
 ever little to attract, beyond the open 
 sea-view, bounded N. by Thorpe 
 Point, and S. by Orfordness. 
 
 Aldborougb, until disfranchised 
 by the Eeform Bill, returned 2 mem- 
 bers to Pari. It is " The Borough " 
 of the poet Crabbe, who has de- 
 scribed its more prominent features 
 — its ch. river, quay, &c. — with 
 slight variations, in that poem. A 
 bu&t of him has been set up in the large 
 'parish Ch., the chancel of which has 
 been almost rebuilt. The ch. is 
 Perp. ; much modernised. Crabbe 
 was born here in 1774, the son of the 
 salt-oflBcer, a humble excise appoint- 
 ment ; and the poet himself, in ware- 
 houseman's costume, was at one 
 time employed on Slaughden Quay 
 to pile up butter casks. There is a 
 walk along the beach 2 m. in length ; 
 and a terrace on the hill behind the 
 town, commanding good sea-views. 
 On the beach is the Moot-hall, a 
 half-timbered building of the IGth 
 centy., restored in 1854. It is the 
 meeting - place of the " borough " 
 corporation, which consists of two 
 bailiffs annually elected, and 12 bur- 
 gesses, chosen for life. Crabbe's 
 description of this spot, its slimy 
 marshes and withered heaths, is 
 minute as the work of a Dutch 
 painter : — 
 
 "Here samphire banks and saltwort bound 
 tbe flood, 
 There stakes and eea-weed withering in 
 tbe mud ; 
 
 And higher up a ridge of all things base 
 Which tome strong tide has rolled upon 
 the place." 
 
 The neighbouring landscape on 
 the land side is not inviting : — 
 
 " Lo ! where the heath, with withering brake 
 grown o'er, 
 
 Lends the light turf that warms the neigh- 
 bouring poor ; 
 
 From thence a length of burning sand ap- 
 pears, 
 
 Where the thin harvest waves its withered 
 ears; 
 
 Rank weeds, that every art and care def^-, 
 
 lleign o'er the land and rob the bligUud 
 rye." 
 
 N. of the town is a large sheet of 
 water called Aldborougb Mere or 
 Haven. The coast here, as at South- 
 wold, is famous for its yellow agates. 
 
 The tourist may visit Orford 
 Castle from Aldborougb (5 m. see 
 ante), and Dunwich {post) about 10 
 m. N. 
 
 [The road between Aldborougb 
 and Snape — about midway, but 
 rather nearer Snape— passes between 
 6 large harrows, which stand on 
 either side. These have been ex- 
 amined at different periods ; but only 
 with real care and knowledge in 
 1862, when it was proved that inter- 
 ments of different dates had been 
 made in them. The original deposit 
 in the largest barrow had been made 
 within a boat or vessel, about 48 ft. 
 long, and 10 ft. wide amidshi]:)S. 
 The iron bolts fastening the ribs 
 of the ship were found, and much of 
 the decayed woodwork. Glass frag- 
 ments, a gold ring set with an 
 intaglio on onyx, and long plaited 
 hair which had rested on a block of 
 oak were also discovered. It re- 
 mains uncertain whether the boat 
 represented a Roman galley or a 
 Northman's ' sea snake.' Tlie field 
 was afterwards trenched, and many 
 urns were found. The whole in- 
 dicates a cemetery of very early in- 
 habitants of the banks of the Aide, 
 used, as was often the case, by after 
 comers.J 
 
156 
 
 Boute 5. — Dunwich. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Between Saxmundham and Dars- 
 hani, Carlton Hall (R. Garrett, Esq.), 
 and Kelsall Cli. arc passed 1. Nearer 
 Darsham are Yoxford Cli. (of little 
 interest), and Cochfield Hall (Sir 
 Chas. Blois, Bart.). This is a fine 
 brick mansion, temp. Hen. VIII., 
 with moulded brick chimneys. The 
 windows have been modernised, and 
 tlie whole has been painted in imita- 
 tion of stone. Sihton Ch., 2 m. W., 
 contains Norm, portions. In this 
 parish are some remains of a Cister- 
 cian house, founded by William de 
 Casineto (Cheney) in 1150. 
 
 At 27 m. Barsham Stat, a road 
 passes E., 5 m. to Dunwich ; and an 
 omnibus meets the trains for South- 
 wold, 10 m. 
 
 [ [a) Dunivich, once the most consi- 
 derable seaport on this coast, now re- 
 tains but scanty traces of its former 
 importance, though traditions of an- 
 cient extent and grandeur abound. 
 "With its ruined ch. and monastery, 
 now in the midst of fields, Dunwich 
 recalls Winchelsea on the Sussex 
 coast ; but there the sea has retired ; 
 on this coast, the change is owing, 
 in the words of a document of Eliza- 
 beth's time, " to rage and surgies 
 of the sea," which has swallowed 
 up the greater part of the old town. 
 Dunwich was the Saxon " Dummoc- 
 oeastre," and had been a Eoman sta- 
 tion of some importance, as is suffi- 
 ciently proved by the remains which 
 from time to time liave been dis- 
 covered here. Lines of very ancient 
 (perhaps British) roads, led from it 
 in one direction towards Bury St. 
 Edmund's, and in another towards 
 Norwich. Sigeberht, king of East 
 Anglia, constructed here (circ. 630), 
 no doubt out of the Eoman ruins, 
 which must then have been exten- 
 sive, a " palace " for himself, and a 
 ch. for Felix the Burgundiau, who, 
 consecrated by Abp. Hoaorius in 
 630, became the tirst bishop of the 
 
 East Anglian see, and the apostle of 
 that kingdom, which had relapsed 
 into heathenism, I'see Introd.) A 
 succession of 15 bishops, having the 
 place of their see at Dunwich, fol- 
 lowed Felix. The boundaries of the 
 see were at first conterminous with 
 those of the kingdom ; but in 673 
 Abp. Theodore established a second. 
 see at Elmham in Norfolk, (see Nor- 
 folk, Ete. 8). In this the see of 
 Dunwich became afterwards merged ; 
 and the place of this E. Anglian see 
 was removed by the first bishop after 
 the Conquest, first to Tlietford, and 
 then, finally, to Norwich. Dunwich 
 was one of the most ancient English 
 boroughs, and returned two members 
 to Parliament from the reign of Edw. 
 I., until it was disfranchised by the 
 Eeform Bill. In the reign of Henry 
 II. and Edward I. its ships traded 
 with the North Sea, and even with 
 Iceland ; and it furnished 40 ships 
 for the use of Henry III. : but in the 
 reign of Edward III., owing to en- 
 croachments, its port shoaled. The 
 town, which stands on a high sandy 
 promontory, is now reduced to some 
 20 houses and 227 inhabitants ; and 
 from the action of the sea upon the 
 clifts of soft loose earth on which it 
 was built, large portions year by 
 year are swept into the waves. This 
 destractive process has been steadily 
 going forward for the last 12 or 14 
 centuries. There is a tradition that 
 a forest, called Eastwood, stretched 
 several miles between the town and 
 the sea ; and from the time of Domes- 
 day Book, records have been pre- 
 served of the fall of churches, con- 
 vents, hospitals, a town-hall, and 
 many private buildings. In the 
 reign of Edward III., when the old 
 port was swallowed up, 400 houses 
 were swept away at once ; between 
 1535 and IGOO, 4 churches disap- 
 peared; in 1677 the sea forced its 
 way into the market-place ; in 1702 
 St. Peter's Church was undermined, 
 gave way, and was followed, towards 
 1729, by its chui'chyard. 
 
Suffolk. Boide 5. — Cnehingsand — BIythhurgli . 
 
 157 
 
 " The searchinf^ waves 
 Disgorged the niouklcriug coflius from the 
 
 ground, 
 Tossed shroudless bones of scattered men 
 
 long dead, 
 And recent corses from their dreamless bed." 
 
 The most interesting objects liere 
 are the Norm, fragment (the eastern 
 apse) of the Chcqjel of St. James's 
 Hospital, for lepers, and the ruins of 
 the Grey Friars' Monastery, founded 
 in the reign of Henry HI., by Richard 
 Fitzjohn. The latter consist of a 
 double gateway, of part of the ch., 
 and some other fragments, pictur- 
 esquely clad with ivy, but of little 
 architectural interest. (Among the 
 ruins here grows the " Uunwich 
 rose," said originally to have been 
 planted by the monks. It is usually 
 white, but is found pink at Fiam- 
 lingham.) Of the G churches which 
 Dunwich once possessed, one only 
 (All Saints) remains, in utter ruin 
 and of little interest. It consists of 
 a chancel, nave and W. Tower, close 
 to the margin of tlie cliff. It might 
 have served till the present day, but 
 was abandoned in the middle of the 
 last century, that the townsfolks 
 might sell the bells and lead. Here 
 is a modern Chapel (St. James's), 
 built 1830. 
 
 John Day or Doye, the first Eng- 
 lish printer who employed a " Saxon " 
 type, was born at Dunwich early in 
 the 16th centy. 
 
 On the Cnebinfjsand (the old name 
 of the sands between Dunwich and 
 Yarmouth ; it may be connected 
 with ' Cnobersberg,' the name (ap- 
 parently) of Brugh Castle in Bede, 
 see iwst) — Q. great fleet of Flemish 
 vessels, under the command of Hugh 
 de Boves, coming to assist King- 
 John (Sei)t. 1215) were wrecked in 
 a terrific storm. The ships were 
 full of old men, women and chil- 
 dren; John had promised to his 
 Flemish auxiliaries the counties of 
 Suftblk and Norfolk, and tliey were 
 coming as colonists. The coast, 
 says Matthew Paris, was covered 
 
 with dead bodies, and 40,000 per- 
 sons are said to have perished.] 
 
 [ (b) The road from Darsham to 
 Southwold (10 m.), passes through 
 Thorrington, (near is Tliorriiigton 
 Hall, Col. Bence) ; and Blythburyh, a 
 small village on the Blythe, (which 
 the Domesday record shows to have 
 been a place of some importance be- 
 fore the Conquest), with a very hand- 
 some and uniform Perp. Ch., dedi- 
 cated to the Holy Trinity, (1442-73), 
 but much dilapidated. The parapet 
 of open work on the S. aisle, and 
 the buttresses, capped by grotesque 
 monsters, should be noticed. Tiie 
 roof retains the old painting through- 
 out. Some fine old desks and seats 
 remain in the N.E, chapel, probably 
 founded by John Hopton in 1452. 
 There is an original Perp. poor's 
 box, and a lectern of the same date. 
 The font is fine. Anna, king of 
 the E. Angles, who fell in battle 
 with Penda of Mercia (Bede, iii. 18), 
 according to a local tradition, in 
 Bulcamp Forest, a once wooded dis- 
 trict N. of Blytheburgh, is said to 
 have been buried here. An altar 
 tomb of the 15th cent., long shown 
 as Anna's, belongs in reality to 
 Sir John Swillington. A small 
 Augustinian Priory was founded 
 here as a daughter-house of St. 
 Osyth's in Essex, temp. Hen. I. 
 Some fragments, of no great interest, 
 remain near the parish ch. The 
 fine parish ch, was 2:)robably built 
 under the influence of this priory, 
 which j)ossessed the tithes. 
 
 Adjoining the village N. is ITen- 
 hani Hall (Earl of Stradbroke) whose 
 family (that of Eons) has been settled 
 here for three centuries. The pre- 
 sent house, however, is modern, and 
 was built after the destruction of the 
 ancient mansion by fire in 1773. It 
 contains a few portraits of interest. 
 Near the site of the old hall is a pic- 
 turesque oak tree, in which a cava- 
 lier lord of Heuham was concealed 
 for sorac days, and supplied with 
 
158 
 
 Monte 5. — BhjtJwford — Southwold. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 provisions by his wife. lu tho hol- 
 low of this tree Sir Robert llous and 
 two or three stauuch adherents of the 
 Stuarts used to meet and diink 
 deeply to the " King over the water." 
 
 1 m. N.W. of BIythburgh is 
 Blytlieford, where is a small Ch. with 
 Norm, and E.E. portions. The little 
 river JBhjthe, which gives name to 
 these places, rises at Laxfield, and 
 has some rather pretty scenery on its 
 banks. Below BIythburgh it ex- 
 pands into a " broad,"' and falls into 
 the sea a little S. of Southwold. 
 
 Passing through Wangford, the 
 road soon reaches Southioold (Inns : 
 Crown, Old Swan, Royal), a fishing 
 town, small seaport, and watering- 
 place, with 2032 iuhab. It has a 
 very handsome Perp. Church, dedi- 
 cated to St. Edmund, having a W. 
 tower 100 ft. high, of stone and flint, 
 and a light lantern over the roof. Its 
 S. porch is elegant and highly en- 
 riched. The ch, contains portions of 
 curiously carved stalls and of a 
 splendid rood-loft, the lower panels of 
 which are ornamented with a series 
 of highly - finished paintings of the 
 Apostles, with gilt diaper back- 
 grounds. 
 
 On the Gun Hill is a battery of 
 six guns, taken by Charles Edward 
 at Preston, from Sir John Cope, re- 
 captured at Culloden, and given to 
 Southwold by the Duke of Cumber- 
 land, who, compelled by stress of 
 weather, landed here on his return 
 from Scothmd, and is said to have 
 been greatly pleased with his recep- 
 tion — very difl'erent from the greet- 
 ings to which the ' butcher Cumber- 
 land' had been accustomed in the 
 north. The climate of Southwold 
 is unusually mild. Bones of the 
 mastodon occur in the cliffs. 
 
 Southwold Bay, better laiown as 
 Solehay (there is a strong propensity 
 to this shortening among the E. 
 Anglians; thus Covehytheness, N. 
 of Southwold, becomes " Coathe- 
 ness"), was, in 1672, the scene of 
 
 the great fight between tho allied 
 English and French fleets under the 
 Duke of York, Lord Sandwich, and 
 Comte d'Estre'es, and the Dutch 
 fleet under the famous De Ruyter. 
 The Dutch surprised the English at 
 anchor, so that many of the ships 
 were obliged to cut their cables, 
 run out to sea, and make ready for 
 action. The battle was terrible, and 
 the brunt was chiefly borne by the 
 English and Dutch, the French soon 
 sheering off, according to orders &om 
 Louis XIV. to risk as little as pos- 
 sible, and leave the English and 
 Dutch to destroy each other. Tho 
 Dutch Vice- Admiral, Van Ghent, 
 was killed, De Ruyter wounded, and 
 Lord Sandwich, after maintaining an 
 unequal contest against a superior 
 force, was blown up with his ship. 
 The action continued till 9 at night, 
 when the Dutch drew ofl", dreadfully 
 shattered, and the English were 
 quite unable to pursue them. The 
 battle was of course within sight and 
 hearing of all this line of coast : — 
 
 " Well might you bear their guns, I guessi. 
 From Sizewell gap to Eastou ness, 
 
 The show was rare and sightly : 
 They battered without let or sUiy 
 Until the evening of that day 
 Twas then the Dutchmen ran away. 
 
 The Duke had beat them tightly," 
 
 a conclusion of the ballad writer 
 which is not quite consistent with 
 the facts. The Earl of Ossory, then 
 on a visit at Euston, the Duke of 
 Grafton's, heard the firing, ami 
 immediately galloped off to join tho 
 fleet. Sir Isaac Newton is also said 
 to have heard it at Cambridge. 
 
 Eci&ton Bavents, N. of Southwold, 
 is said anciently to have terminated 
 seawards in a long promontory,— the 
 'E^oxv of Ptolemy — and to have been 
 the most eastern headland of Britain. 
 This distinction now belongs to 
 Lowestoft.] 
 
 At 32f ra. the line reaches Hales- 
 wortlt Stat. This is an old town near* 
 the sources of the Blythe (which is 
 
Suffolk. Boide 5. — Halesworth — Brami^on. 
 
 159 
 
 crossed shortly before reaching the 
 Stat.), and coiitaining some antique 
 houses. In the market-place is a 
 timber-house, part of which is now 
 the Three Tuns ; near the bridge is 
 a curious bas-relief, in wood, on a 
 house ; opposite the ch. is a timber 
 mansion of Tudor age, with modern 
 bow window. A rich doorway and 
 a pillared and carved chimney-piece 
 have been removed hence to the 
 house of the Rev. S. Blois Turner, 
 who possesses a collection of antiqui- 
 ties with relics of the Spanish 
 Armada and of Solebay fight. Among 
 the former is a long musket, with an 
 inscription on the barrel " + Ibis in 
 hereticos." 
 
 The Church, which has some Dec. 
 portions, but is for the most part 
 Perp., contains a fine Perp. font, 
 with angels and emblems of the 
 Evangelists round the bowl, and 
 grotesque figures at the base. Here 
 is also a brass for John Everard, 
 1476, a half etfigy, unusual at so late 
 a period. [Half-way between Dars- 
 ham and Halesworth, and 2 m. from 
 the latter place, is Bramfield, where 
 is a small early Dec. Ch., with a 
 circular bell tower, detached. In 
 the ch. is a monument with a kneel- 
 ing figm-e, for Arthur Coke, d. 1G29, 
 3rd son of Sir Edward Coke, Lord 
 Chief Justice ; at his feet is a re- 
 cumbent efiSgy of his wife, d. 1627. 
 The very quaint inscriptions on the 
 monuments of the Nelson family 
 should be read. In the grounds of 
 Bramfield Hall, (Rev. R. Rabett) 
 and within a few yards of the pre- 
 sent highway, stood the " Bramfield 
 Oak," an enormous tree, which fell 
 from sheer decay in June, 1813. It 
 was one of the old marks for travel- 
 lers from London to the N. of Suffolk, 
 and is commemorated in the ballad 
 of Sir Hugh Bigod — 
 
 "When the Baily had ridden to Bramfield 
 oak, 
 Sir Hugh was at Ilksall bower ; 
 When the Baily had rjdden to Halesworth 
 cross 
 He was singing in Bungay tower." 
 
 6 m. S.W. of Halesworth is Heven- 
 ingham Hall (Lord lluntingfield), a 
 modern mansion, built 1777, from 
 designs by Sir R. Taylor. The 
 house is one of the finest, and stands 
 in one of the best parks, in the 
 county. It contains some Dutch and 
 Flemish paintings. The Ch. (Dec.) 
 has a fine oak roof. In it is the 
 tomb, with eflSgies, of Sir John 
 Heveningham, d. 1452, and wife. 
 His figure is a good example of 
 armour. The " coat-armom-," of the 
 Heveninghams, said the herald, was 
 " come of Arphaxad, the knight who 
 watcht Christ at his sepulchre." 
 Their crest, a Saracen's head, is said 
 to have been won by Sir William 
 Heveningham, who, temp. Richd. I., 
 "overcame Safer, a daring Saracen, 
 captain of a castle in Palestine."J 
 
 SGJ m. Brampton Stat. About 
 half-way between this and the next 
 station, rt. is Sotterley Hall (F. 
 Barne, Esq.), a large modern man- 
 sion, in a richly-wooded park. In 
 the Ch. are good hrasses for Tho- 
 mas Playters, 1479, and wife ; Robert 
 Bomstead, circ. 1480; Christopher 
 Playters, 1547; Thomas Playters, 
 1572; and Thomasine, wife of Wm. 
 Playters, 1578. All these brasses 
 deserve attention. In the E. windov/ 
 are the figures, in stained glass, of 
 Thomas Playters (the first of the 
 Playter brasses), and his seven sons. 
 This Sir Thomas was a strong par- 
 tizan of the White Rose ; and the 
 manor of Sotterley was bestowed on 
 him by Edward IV. The family of 
 the same name, which had hitherto 
 held it, had embraced the opposite 
 side, and their lands were confiscated 
 accordingly. 
 
 At 42 m. we reach Beccles Junction, 
 (For Beccles, see Rte. 9), whence 
 a short line branches to Lowestolt, 
 with an intermediate station at 47 ^ 
 m. Carlton Colville. With the ex- 
 ception of the Ch. at Mutford, 1^ m. 
 S.W. of Carlton, which has a round 
 
160 
 
 Boute 5. — New Lowestoft. 
 
 Sect. TI. 
 
 tower, with a ruined western porch 
 or Galilee of Norm, date, and rc- 
 scmblin;^ that at Ely in its unusual 
 length, there is nothing to detain the 
 tourist until he reaches 
 
 49f m. Neio Lowestoft. — • Inn : 
 Koyal Hotel, a large, well furnished, 
 commodious house, with moderate 
 charges, pleasantly situated close to 
 the pier, and at the extremity of the 
 esplanade. 
 
 (The rly., in passing to New 
 Lowestoft, skirts the bank of Lal-e 
 Lothing, now forming the Inner 
 Harbour, and not very picturesque. 
 A ridge of land divides this lake 
 from Oulton Broad, rather pretty, 
 with fiat, wooded banks. Through 
 this broad, and through Lake Loth- 
 ing, the river Waveney formerly found 
 its way to the sea. The channel 
 was open in Camden's time, but 
 afterwards silted up, and was only 
 reopened in 1827 (see post.") 
 
 Lake Lothing (the etymology is 
 quite uncertain) seems to have given 
 name to the half-hundred of Lothing- 
 land (Ludingaland in Domesday), of 
 which it partly formed the southern 
 border). 
 
 New Loivestoft consists of a marine 
 terrace, and several ranges of neat 
 houses, well adapted for summer 
 visitors desiring sea-bathing, erected 
 on a height above the sea, about | m. 
 S. of Old Lowestoft. It has fine 
 sands for bathing or riding, and a 
 noble expanse of sea- view : altogether 
 it is a great improvement upon the 
 old town. 
 
 New Lowestoft owes its existence 
 to the enterprise of Sir S. M. Peto, 
 who was for some time owner of 
 Somerleyton and lord of the manor 
 of Lowestoft. He jiurchased (1844) 
 the harbour, formed 1827-31 Ijy 
 cutting through the dam of sands and 
 shingle which had filled up the mouth 
 of tlie Lake Lothing, — tbus admit- 
 ting the sea once again into it, and re- 
 storing to the river Waveney a direct 
 outlet into the sea. This work was 
 
 originally executed by Mr. Cubitt. 
 The improvements afterwards made 
 by Sir Samuel Peto to the harbour — 
 including the leading of a railway 
 to its margin — are on a very large 
 scale, and are works of interest to the 
 engineer as well as to ordinary be- 
 holders. 
 
 The artificial canal joining Lake 
 Lothing to the sea is crossed by the 
 high road on an iron Swing Bridge, 
 50 ft. span, distant not more than 
 100 yards from the Royal Hotel and 
 the Rly. terminus, and close to the 
 huge lock-gates, constructed 200 
 yards from the sea, upon foundations 
 laid 30 ft. below the level of spring- 
 tides, capable of keeping out the sea 
 and of retaining the contents of the 
 harbour (200 acres) at high-water 
 level, thus giving a great power of 
 scouring the passage by a sudden 
 rush of water On the rt. extends the 
 Outer Harbour, formed by 2 vast 
 Biers, that N. 1800 ft. long ; that S. 
 1215 ft., of blocks of masonry, filled 
 in with concrete, and cased with a 
 framework of wood. At the ex- 
 tremities are 2 lighthouses. At the 
 entrance to the N. Pier, a new fish- • 
 market (480 ft. by 60) was con- 
 structed in 1865 by the O. E. Rly. 
 Company. Here the fish are received 
 from the boats, sold by the fish 
 "auctioneers," and conveyed direct 
 to the station. The S. Pier (a small 
 charge is made for admission) forms 
 a very agreeable promenade ; and 
 has a good reading-room towards its 
 centre. On this pier a baud plays 
 3 times daily during the season. 
 There has been opened a harbour 
 of refuge, accessible at all times of 
 the tide, and communicating with 
 the Inner Harbour, a sheet of water 
 2 m. long (originally Lake Lothing), 
 which has been dredged, lined with 
 wharves f m. long, and furnished with 
 warehouses. On its N. margin is 
 the Rly. terminus, and from it opens 
 out a long line of inland navi- 
 gation — up the Waveney to Beccles, 
 and up the Tare to Norwich. Th© 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boute 5. — Old Lowestoft. 
 
 161 
 
 construction of this harbour cost not 
 less than 320,000Z. ; but the results 
 of this great outlay have hardly 
 equalled expectation. It has been 
 found very diftieult to prevent the 
 opening of the inner harbour from 
 becoming silted ujd ; and the harbour 
 itself has not been frequented to the 
 extent that was reasonably hoped. 
 
 New Lowestoft is however one of 
 the best and most agreeable watering- 
 places on this coast — for those who 
 can be contented with a grand stretch 
 of open sea, admirable bathing, a 
 good hotel, and an excellent esplan- 
 ade. The inland country is neither 
 picturesque nor very interesting. 
 The Esplanade is a broad raised 
 terrace, 850 yds. long. The point 
 visible S. is Cove Hythe, marked by 
 its ruined ch. The sea here is very 
 shallow, and wrecks are frequent. 
 Two life-boats are kept. 
 
 St. John's, the Church of New 
 Lowestoft, was built in 1853 (/. L. 
 Clemence, Archit.). 
 
 (For excursions, see post, after Old 
 Lowestoft.) 
 
 Half a mile N. is Old Lowestoft. — 
 {Inns: Suffolk Hotel, not far from 
 the Stat.; Queen's Head, in the 
 town. Pop. of Old and New Low- 
 estoft, in 1861, 9534.) "Lestoffe," 
 as Camden says, " hangs, as it were, 
 over the sea." (The name has been 
 interpreted, " lowes-toft," toft or 
 hamlet, the house on the hill=Zo?/;e.) 
 It is a small fishing town and port, 
 as well as a watering-place, situated 
 on an eminence above the sea, upon 
 the most eastern point of land in 
 England. • The high road traverses 
 its narrow main street, divided by 
 narrow lanes, locally called " scores," 
 (A. S. scoren=to cleave), from which 
 a number of gardens slope down to 
 the Denes, a deserted beach inter- 
 vening between the cliflf and the sea, 
 here edged with a line of sheds for 
 the curing of herrings, the fisheiy 
 of which forms the chief resource of 
 the town. 65 vessels are employed 
 
 in the herring trade. These Denes, 
 partly covered with turf and furze, 
 but throughout sand-sprinkled, are 
 worth a visit. The sea here is unre- 
 strained by wall or esplanade, and 
 is fine and wild. The town itself, 
 with its red houses and trees, affords 
 picturesque " bits ; " and in the dis- 
 tance is seen Yarmouth, the old and 
 more powerful rival of Lowestoft in 
 the herring fishery. (For the fights 
 between the Yarmouth and Lowestoft 
 ships, see Yarmouth, Norfolk, Rte. 
 2.) • The Ness, here marked by a 
 new iron lighthouse, is the most 
 easterly point of land in England. 
 The land at Dunwich, and probably 
 at other places on the coast, formerly 
 extended much farther seaward ; but 
 whereas this line of coast has else- 
 where been encroached on by the 
 sea, a current running between the 
 land at Lowestoft and the Holme 
 Sand, a short distance off it, has 
 assisted the growth of a natural em- 
 bankment, and the Ness Denes are 
 still gradually extending themselves. 
 The sea appears at one time to have 
 washed the foot of the cliff on which 
 the town is built. 
 
 On these Denes George II. landed 
 on his return from Hanover, January, 
 1736. The royal barge, in which, 
 besides the King, was the Countess 
 of Yarmouth, and a large retinue, 
 was lifted bodily by a company of 
 sailors, who carried it to the beach 
 with all on board. This must have 
 been a somewhat perilous compli- 
 ment ; and a Mr, Jex, who conducted 
 the King to the town, placed him in 
 still greater peril by awkward driv- 
 ing. His landing was celebrated in 
 rhyme : 
 
 "Belst be the day, be none distinguished 
 more, 
 
 Than that which brought him to the Lowes- 
 toft shore. 
 
 Bright ministering angels then were there, 
 George and Great Britain were their guardian 
 
 care, 
 O'er him their sacred wings extended wide, 
 Checked the rude winds and stemmed the 
 
 swelling tide." 
 
1G2 
 
 Boiite 5. — Old Lowestoft. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Jolin Adams, the first Ambassador 
 from the United States, landed hero 
 in 1784. 
 
 The single point of interest in the 
 old town of Lowestoft, is the Toion 
 Hall, opened in 1860. It contains a 
 stained-glass window by Ballantine 
 of Edinburgh (designed by Thomas), 
 representing tlie " Field of theClotli of 
 Gold," and intended to commemorate 
 the alliance between France and 
 England, during the Crimean war. 
 This window was exhibited at Paris 
 in 1855, and cost 800Z. Two smaller 
 windows contain the arms of Sir S. 
 M. Peto, and those of the town. All 
 three were the gifts of Sir S. Peto. 
 Over the clock is a bell (from which 
 the curfew is tolled), made from 
 brasses stolen from St. Margaret's 
 Ch. by Dowsing, 1644. 
 
 Apart from the town, at a distance 
 of I m. W. of it, stands, quite alone, 
 the fine old Perp. CU. of St. 3Iargaret, 
 (the keys are kept in Lowestoft), with 
 a small tower and spire of wood. 
 The buttresses are enriched, and the 
 E. end, chequered with flint and stone, 
 encloses a fine Perp. window, filled 
 with bad modern glass. There is 
 no cliancel arch, and no external dis- 
 tinction between nave and chancel. 
 The Pei-p. piers are fine, but are 
 at present covered in a remarkable 
 fashion with whitewash, whilst the 
 bases are blackened. The aisle win- 
 dows are unusually lofty, rising 
 nearly to the height of the nave 
 clerestory. The interior is 182 ft. 
 long, 43 ft. high. There is a S. 
 porch, a small crypt under the 
 chancel, a good wooden roof, and a 
 curious font surrounded with two 
 rows of saints, much defaced by the 
 Puritans. The ecclesiologist may 
 also admire a series of "memorial 
 pews," erected 1740-59, by the Rev. 
 J. Tanner, Yicar, as records of his 
 wife and sister. The Rev. Robert 
 Potter, translator of ^schylus, So- 
 phocles, &c., and vicar of Lowestoft, 
 (1789), is buried in the ch., while a 
 number of naval heroes, chiefly 
 
 natives, among them Admiral Utber 
 and his two sons. Sir John Ashby, 
 Captains Mighelle, Arnold, Allen, 
 and Leake, are interred here, and 
 have plain wall slabs or table tombs. 
 In the chancel lies James Howard, 
 son of the Earl of Berkshire, killed 
 1665, in the great sea-fight off Lowes- 
 toft, between the Dutch under Opdam 
 and Tromp, and the English rmder 
 the Duke of York. After 17 hours' 
 hard fighting the Dutch lost the day. 
 14 ships and 4000 men were de- 
 stroyed, 18 ships and 2000 men taken. 
 Opdam's ship blew up in the middle 
 of the action, and all on board 
 perished. Admiral Cortenaer was 
 wounded. On the side of the Eng- 
 lish the chief losses were the Earl of 
 Falmouth, Lord Muskerry, and Mr. 
 Boyle. 
 
 The low tower is perhaps earlier 
 than the rest of the ch., wdiich was 
 rebuilt in the 15th cent., by the 
 Priory of St. Bartholomew, in Smith- 
 field, to which it belonged. In the 
 cli.-yard is interred Sir J. E. Smith, 
 the botanist, author of the ' British 
 Flora.' 
 
 Thomas Nash, the bitter prose 
 satirist of the reign of Queen Eliza- 
 beth, was born at Lowestoft, in 1567, 
 the son of William Nash, then oflici- 
 ating minister there. 
 
 At the N. end of the High St. of 
 Lowestoft is the Upper Lightliouse, 
 built 1609, the most ancient now 
 existing in England. 
 
 Excursions: Lake Lothing, Oulton 
 J) road, and Mutford (see arite) are 
 within easy distance of Lowestoft. 
 
 Oidton Hall, 3 m. W., is the pro- 
 perty of George Borrow, Esq., author 
 of the ' Bible in Spain.' In Oulton 
 Ch. (early Dec.) is a large hrass 
 of Adam Bacon, priest, d. 1310 ; and 
 a smaller of Sir John Fastolfe and 
 wife (1445). Both brasses deserve 
 notice. 
 
 (a) S. of Lowestoft, Benacre and 
 Cove Hythe (5 m.) may be visited ; 
 
Suffolk. Boufe 5. — Somcrleyton — Herring fleet. 
 
 163 
 
 and the expedition may be continued 
 to Southicold (12 m ; see the present 
 Ete., ante^. 
 
 Benacre Hall (Sir Edward Gooch, 
 Bfirt.) is a large, well-proportioned 
 white-brick building, of the Wyatt 
 scliool. The Park is screened by 
 noble woods. E. of it are the pictur- 
 esque ruins of Cove Hythe Cli. The 
 square tower, as seen through the 
 chancel window, will repay a visit. 
 
 Bishop Bale (d. 1573), autlior of 
 our earliest English historical play 
 (' Kynge Jolian '), and the last of the 
 race of miracle writers, was born at 
 South Cove in 1495. 
 
 (b) N. of Lowestoft, the pedestrian 
 may walk along the cliffs (or by the 
 sands at low tide) to Yarmouth, 
 about 9 m. But the most interesting 
 excursion in this direction is that to 
 
 (1) Somerleyton Hall (Sir F. Cross- 
 ley, Bart.) The hall is only shown on 
 certain days, about which enquiry 
 should be made at the Eoyal Hotel, 
 New Lowestoft, where tickets of 
 admission are to be procm-ed.) 
 The excursion may be continued 
 to Herringfleet, returning by Lound 
 and Blundeston. This part of Loth- 
 ingland is well wooded, though fiat. 
 Somerleyton may be reached by the 
 Norwich and Lowestoft rly., which 
 has a stat. there ; but the hall is 2 m, 
 distant. The distance by road from 
 Lowestoft is 8 m. 
 
 Somerleyton was from a very 
 early period the chief seat of tlie 
 Lords of the " Island of Lothing- 
 land" (see ante). It passed through 
 Fitz Osberts, Jernigans, and many 
 others, until in 18-14 it was sold 
 by Lord Sidney Godolphin Osborne 
 to Sir S. M. Peto. From him it 
 has passed to Sir F. Crossley. The 
 architect of the present hcmse, of 
 red brick and stone, was John 
 y/ionzos, sculptor of the statues in the 
 new Houses of Parliament, and m 
 many respects his work is much to be 
 praised, though the fine old house of 
 
 the Jernigans, Garneys, Aliens, and 
 Anguishes was all but pulled down 
 to erect it. Of Old Somerley nothing- 
 remains but a room or two, and one of 
 the finest lime-tree avenues (450 ft. 
 long) in any part of England. The 
 gardens, (and especially the winter 
 garden, under glass) are modern, and 
 are well worth a visit. The house 
 itself is gorgeous with frescoes, rich 
 chimney-pieces, and carved ceilings. 
 il/aeZ/se's fresco of "Cliivalry" is in 
 the hall. In the dining-room are 
 two fine Stanfields, " The Victory, 
 with the body of Nelson, entering 
 Gibraltar Bay," and the " Siege of 
 San Sebastian." There are other 
 good modern pictiures ; and in one of 
 the lobbies is the case of stuffed 
 animals from Nuremberg, famous in 
 the Great Exhibition of 1851. 
 
 The ch. in the park was rebuilt by 
 Sir S. M. Peto. The park contains 
 about 300 acres. 
 
 IJ m. N.W. of Somerleyton is 
 Herringfleet (Harlingflet in Domes- 
 day), where was a Priory of Au- 
 gustinian Canons, known as St. 
 Olave's, and founded by Roger Fitz 
 Osbert, temp. Hen. HI. The Priory 
 was dedicated to the Virgin and to St. 
 Olave ; and the seal represented St. 
 Olave, crowned, with a cross in the 
 1. hand and a battle-axe in the rt. 
 The yarish Ch., dedicated to St. Mar- 
 garet, belonged to the Priory, and is 
 Norman, with later additions. It 
 has a round tower (like most of the 
 Lothingland churches), noticeable 
 for the windows in its upper stage, 
 where a circular arch with blind 
 tympanum encloses two triangular- 
 headed lights. There are some good 
 Norman portions in tlie interior of 
 the ch., which has been refitted ; and 
 the glass in the E. window is from 
 the ch. of the Friars Minor, at 
 Cologne. Herringfleet Hall (H. M. 
 Leatlies, Esq.) contains a good col- 
 lection of pictures, chiefly Dutch. 
 Among them is a full length, by 
 Herman van cler Mign, of William 
 Leathes, Minister Plenipotentiary at 
 
164 
 
 Boute ^.-^AsJihy — Gorleston. 
 
 Sect. IT. 
 
 Brussels and the Hague, under 
 Georo;e I. 
 
 Axhhy Cli. (2 m. N.E. of Herring- 
 fleet) has a round tower, the lower 
 part of Avhich is Norm. Lound 
 Ch. (U m. S.E. of Ashby) has a 
 thatched roof (to which the nave 
 is ojDen), some screen work, a good 
 Perp. E. window, and a round 
 tower. The modern altar - piece, 
 of carved oak, was shown in the 
 Great Exhibition of 1851. Blun- 
 deston Cli. has a round (perhaps 
 Norm.) tower, and a carved screen, 
 worth notice. In this parish is 
 Blundeston House, long the residence 
 of the Eev. Norton Nicholls, who 
 formed its grounds. It is, says 
 Matthias, in his ' Obs. on the Life of 
 Gray,' "one of the most finished 
 scenes of cultivated sylvan deliglit 
 which this island can offer to our 
 view." Gray visited Nicholh here, 
 and a pollard oak and summer-house 
 at the end of the lake are pointed out 
 as his favourite haunts. The place 
 is really pretty, tho^^gh it has been 
 much altered. The little Ch. of 
 Flixfon (dedicated to St. Andrew, 
 but said to occupy the site of an 
 earlier ch., dedicated to St. Felix — 
 hence Flixfon Felix-ton) is a pictur- 
 esque ivy-covered ruin. 
 
 (2) The distance hy turnpilie road 
 from Lowestoft to Yarmouth is 9 m. 
 The road passes over high ground, 
 through well-wooded scenery. On 
 this road the objects of interest are : — 
 Gimton Ch. (rt. at li m. from Lowes- 
 toft), Norm, (but with later addi- 
 tions), with a round tower. In this 
 parish, in the middle of the last centy., 
 a manufactory of china was estab- 
 lished, but was kept working for only 
 a short time: its productions are of 
 course rare and valuable. 3 m. rt. is 
 Carton Ch., in ruin, except the chan- 
 cel which has been restored. Tiie 
 Elizabethan house on the cliff be- 
 longs to F. Somes, Esq. Hopton Ch., 
 4i m. rt., is E. E. and Dec. The 
 roofs are thatched. Gorleston Ch-, 
 
 7i m. 1., is chiefly Dec. It contains 
 the interesting brass of Sir John 
 Bacon, circ. 1292. The effigy is 
 cross-legged, a position of the rarest 
 occurrence in brasses. The font has 
 the 7 Sacraments, and a representa- 
 tion of the Saviour in Judgment. 
 It retains much of its ancient paint- 
 ing and gilding. The ch. has never 
 recovered the desecration and de- 
 struction it underwent during tlie 
 Civil War, at the hands of one 
 Francis Jessope of Beccles, who 
 smashed windows, destroyed the 
 organ, " rent to pieces a hood and 
 surplices," and "brake the popish 
 inscription ' ]\Iy flesh is meat indeed, 
 and my blood is drink indeed.'" 
 The building was left a wreck. A 
 second destruction, much to be re- 
 gretted, was wrought in this neigh- 
 iDOurhood in 1768, when a circle of 
 large stones, 10 ft. high, was removed 
 from a field called Stoneclose. The 
 extreme rarity of such primaeval 
 remains on the Eastern coasts of 
 England gave much interest to this 
 example. At Gorleston a wooden 
 pier, 2000 ft. long, projects into the 
 sea, and forms the defence of Yar- 
 mouth harbour on the S. side. 
 
 Eeturning by rh^ to Beccles, the 
 rly. crosses the Waveney and pro- 
 ceeds across a corner of Norfolk, 
 with a station at Aldehy. At St. Olave^s 
 (see a?ife, Excursion from Lowestoft, — 
 Herringtleet) — where is a station — 
 it re-enters Suffolk. Fritton Ch. is 
 then passed, rt. The original build- 
 ing was Norm, with an apsidal chan- 
 cel, and a round W. tower. The 
 nave seems to have been entirely 
 rebuilt, and is now Dec. The font 
 uns a large silver vase, "■ the gift of 
 Richard Fuller, Esq., in 1769 ;" but 
 this lias happily been replaced by a 
 true font of Norm, character. Some 
 ram-al paintings (including a figure 
 of St. Christopher) have been dis 
 covered (and allowed to remain) on 
 the nave wall. Nave and chancel 
 are thatched. At Fritton is a lake 
 
^UFFOLIv. 
 
 Boiite 6. — Belton-^Burgh Castle. 
 
 165 
 
 or "broad" covering 60 acres, and 
 very picturesque. Its banks are 
 fringed with birches ; and decoys 
 are established on many parts of the 
 lake. Wild fowl of various species 
 aboimd here in winter. Pike, perch, 
 and eels are taken in the lake — for 
 fishing in which application must be 
 made at the farm-house of Mrs. 
 Guy ton. 
 There is a stat. at 
 
 Belton. Here the Ch. is early 
 Perp., and has been lately restored. 
 The round tower is modern. On the 
 nave wall is a painting (of very late 
 character) representing " les trois 
 vifs et les trois morts," — three 
 knights encountering three skele- 
 tons, who point to the cross. The 
 sul)ject Las been found elsewhere on 
 the walls of, chiefly Perp., churches, 
 as at Bovey Tracey in Devonshire, 
 at Charlewood, Surrey, at Ditching- 
 ham, and at Wymondham, in Nor- 
 folk, and elsewhere. It occurs also 
 in parts of France and Belgium. 
 There was a w^ell-known ' moralite ' 
 on this subject, dating from the 
 13th cent. Something resembling it 
 occurs in the painting l)y Andrea 
 di Orgagna at Pisa, called the 
 TriumjDh of Death. 
 
 From this stat. Brugh Castle, 2 
 m. N., may be visited. 
 
 [^Burgh Castle (the name seems to 
 have l)een given by the Northmen 
 W'ho frequented, and settled on, this 
 coast — compare the ' Brughs ' of 
 Zetland) was purchased by the 
 late Sir J. P. Boileau, Bart., with 
 the praiseworthy design of pre- 
 serving it. it has been supposed 
 (with great probability; to be the 
 Eoman station and camp of Gario- 
 nonum (which certainly stood on the 
 Yare = Garienis. The Stablensian 
 horse, according to the Notitia, were 
 stationed there), and it presents one 
 of the most perfect remains in Eng- 
 land of a Eoman work. It occupies 
 a platform above the estuary formed 
 
 by the junction of the rivers Yare 
 and Waveney, anciently " Garienis 
 ostium." Since the walls were 
 erected, the waters have receded, 
 leaving a strip of marshland below 
 the castle. 
 
 Of the original fortification (a 
 parallelogram enclosing about five 
 acres, the longer sides of which 
 measured 640 ft.), the wall upon 3 
 sides remains tolerably perfect. In- 
 deed, though some traces of masonry 
 were found in 1850 on the W. side, it 
 seems probable that the castle never 
 had a fourth wall, the sea, as at 
 Kichborough in Kent, and Pevensey 
 in Sussex, faced by a quay, being 
 considered a sufiicicnt defence. (No- 
 tices of Mr. Harrods excavations at 
 Burgh Castle in 1850-.55, will be 
 found in the 'Norfolk Archaol.' 
 vol. V, He supposes that there liad 
 been a W. wall, and found what he 
 regarded as its foundations. Mr. 
 Harrod does not accept the old con- 
 clusion that the valleys of the Yare 
 and Waveney were broad estuaries 
 in comparatively recent times.) The 
 existing wall is about 9 ft. thick, and 
 14 ft. high, built of flint with bonding 
 courses of tile at intervals, after the 
 usual Eoman fashion. It is flanked 
 by 6 solid circular towers, of which 
 4 are on the E. side. These mural 
 towers, in figure about four-fifths of 
 a circle of 14 ft. diameter, are built 
 detached from the wall, and are not 
 thoroughly joined to it, being only 
 bonded into it near the summit : 
 they are perfectly solid, and in one 
 or two instances have settled away 
 from the wall. One on the N. side 
 lies jDrostrate. They are clearly 
 Eoman work. The principal gateway 
 is on the E. and most perfect side. 
 When one of the towers fell, it was 
 discovered that the foundation was 
 laid ujion a course of oak-planking, 
 which rested on a solid bed of con- 
 crete. Many coins of the Lower 
 Empire have been found here, and 
 many fragments of urns in the field 
 under the E. wall, — proving that the 
 
l66 
 
 Hoiite 5.' — Burgh Castle and Clnirch. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 burial place was there. An ancient 
 road called the " Jews' way " begins 
 near the church, and has been traced 
 for several miles in a S.E. direction. 
 
 Br ugh Castle commands a wide 
 view along the Breydon water (as 
 the " broad " is called, formed by 
 the junction of the Yare and the 
 Waveney). Yarmouth is visible, and 
 the flats beyond it ; and from the 
 towers of the castle the camp at 
 Norwich (Venta Icenorum ?) might 
 liave been signalled. The flint of 
 the walls is well contrasted with the 
 courses of red tile — all much weather 
 stained. Elder-bushes and ivy over- 
 hang the walls; and a thicket of 
 larger trees covers part of the adjoin- 
 ing sloj^e. Brugh is hardly so in- 
 teresting or suggestive as Eutupise, 
 (Richborough in Kent) or Anderida 
 (Pevensey); but it belongs to the 
 same class of defensive castles as 
 Eutupise, and, like that, was under 
 the rule of the " Vir spectabilis," the 
 Count of the Saxon shore. It recalls 
 powerfully the later days of Eoman 
 dominion in this island. 
 
 The Church, a little N. of the 
 castle, has a round tower, the upper 
 part of whicli is modern. Within is 
 a Norman font. Near the ch. are 
 slight traces of a monastery of early 
 foundation, but of which little has 
 been recorded. (It seems to represent 
 the monastery of Cnobersberg — 
 " monasterium silvanum, et maris 
 vicinitate amoonum," — Bede, H. E., 
 Lib. iii., 19 — ■ which St. Fursseus 
 built, circ. 638.) For the visions of 
 St. Fursceus, see Bede. " The stran- 
 ger, on the dank marshy shores of 
 the oozy Yare, contemplating the 
 lichen-encrusted ruins of the Eoman 
 castrametation .... scarcely sup- 
 poses that those grey walls once 
 enclosed the cell of an obscure an- 
 chorite, destined, so strangely is the 
 chain of causation involved, to exer- 
 cise a mighty influence equally 
 upon the dogma and genius of 
 Eoman Christendom. This was the 
 Milesian Scot Fursseus, who. received 
 
 in E. Anglia by King Sigebert, there 
 became enwrapped in the trances 
 which disclosed to him the secrets 
 of the world beyond the grave. . . . 
 Fursaius kindled the spark which, 
 transmitted to the inharmonious 
 Dante of a barbarous age, occasioned 
 the first of the metrical compositions 
 from which the ' Divina Commedia ' 
 arose." — Palqrave's ' Normandy and 
 England,' i. 163. 
 
 On a carved oak beam spanning 
 the village school-room is the in- 
 scription — ' bis cremabatur denuo 
 reedificatur. Twyce brent aforue is 
 bylt agean by robert Thorne the 
 parson, 1548, edvdi 6. 2." (second 
 Edw. VI.) 
 
 There seems no doubt that during 
 the Eoman period a large part of the 
 flat land through which the rivers of 
 Norfolk now wind to the sea was one 
 extensive estuary, extending far in- 
 land. It is said to have reached, in 
 breadth, from Caister to Gorleston, 
 and, by creeks and inlets, W. to 
 Beccles and Bungay, and N.W. to 
 Acle, Norwich, Hornenge, and Wrox- 
 liam — the tides having free access, so 
 that ships might sail up to these 
 (then) seaports. Under the walls of 
 Burgh, and in the marshes lying 
 between the shores of this estuary, 
 parts of anchors, rings, &c., have 
 been discovered from time to time. 
 The i^rocess by which this district 
 was converted from water and marsh 
 into a rich pasture seems to have 
 been partly natural, owing to sand- 
 banks thrown up by the sea, and 
 to have been partly owing to the 
 increased population of the country, 
 with its results of diking, draining, 
 &c.] 
 
 {Bradwell Ch., U m. W., is Dec, 
 with a good E. window. N. of the 
 altar is the curious monument of 
 William Vesey, 1644, — his two wives 
 and 7 children, "sub hoc muro 
 sepulti," — a group of small coloured 
 figures. A local tradition asserts 
 that the monument represents the 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boiite 6. — Ipswicli to Neicmarhet. 
 
 167 
 
 discovery by four sisters of an infant 
 brother, lost in Bradwell Wood, — a 
 story probably invented to account 
 for the arrangement of tlie group.]. 
 
 From Belton the rly. sjjcedily 
 reaches 
 
 Yarmouth 
 Ptte. 2). 
 
 Stat. (See Noefolk 
 
 EOUTE 6. 
 
 IPSWICH TO NEWMARKET, BY BURY 
 ST. EDMUND'S. 
 
 {Eastern Union Railway.') 
 
 This rly. meets with no very 
 serious engineering difficulties, ex- 
 cept in the boggy character of the 
 ground near Stowmarket. There is 
 a handsome bridge and a high em- 
 bankment at Bury. It runs closely 
 parallel to and on the side of the 
 turnpike road the whole way. The 
 highest gradient is 1 in 132. As 
 high as Stowmarket the line follows 
 the valley of the Gipping. On 
 quitting Ipswich, there is a short 
 tunnel througli Stoke Hill. Kt. is a 
 good view of Ipswich. 
 
 2f m. Bramford Stat. 
 
 This manor was attached by Wm. 
 Rufus to Battle Abbey. On the 1. is 
 the [Ch., rather a handsome struc- 
 
 ture, chiefly Perp. The font is fine 
 Perp. with a lofty carved cover. 
 
 (Burstall Ch., 2^ m. 1., is good 
 Dec, and deserves notice.) 
 
 5 m. Claydon. Tlie ch. here (Dec.) 
 has been partly rebuilt, — not too 
 judiciously. 
 
 [4| m. 1. is Elmsett, a Church, said 
 (but very questionably) to include 
 some Saxon fragments, and contain- 
 ing the effigy of Edward Sherland, 
 who died 16U9, and "lived his whole 
 life a single man." The ch. is chiefly 
 Dec. with some later additions. The 
 parsonage is ancient, and was once 
 defended by a moat. Here John 
 Boyse was born, son of the rector, in 
 1560, and became afterwards himself 
 rector. Boyse was one of the trans- 
 lators of James I.'s Bible ; and, says 
 Fuller, " while St. Chrysostom lives, 
 Mr. Boice shall not die, such his 
 learned pains on him in the edition 
 of Sir Henry Savil." Et. (1 m. 
 beyond Claydon) is SJiruhland Hall 
 (Sir Wm. Middleton, Bart.), cele- 
 brated for its magnificent gardens. 
 (See Rte. 1, Excm-sion from Ips- 
 wicli)]. 
 
 8f m. Needliam Market Stat. Inn : 
 Swan ; small, but very clean. This 
 is a village of 1353 inhab., on the 
 Gipping, once a seat of the woollen 
 manufacture ; but as that declined it 
 became poor to a proverb, which may 
 l^erhaps account for the name of a 
 suburban farm, called Hungry -gut 
 Hall. The village is seen on the 1. 
 The Ch. has good Perp. buttresses, 
 but has no great interest, nor are 
 there any important churches on 
 either side of the line between Ips- 
 wich and Stowmarket ; with the 
 exception of Barking (1 m. S. of 
 Needham), which isprmcipally Dec. 
 and has a fine Perp. rood-screen 
 worth notice. 1. m. E. of Needham 
 is Bosmere, a small lake fed by the 
 Gipping, and once perhaps much 
 larger than at present. It gives 
 name to the hundred. 
 
 12 m. Stowmarlcet Stat. 
 
168 
 
 Boiite G-^Stouimarhet. 
 
 Sect. Ih 
 
 Stowmarhet (Inns : Fox ; King's 
 Head ;) is a thriving town (pop. 3563) 
 at the junction of the 3 rivulets which 
 form the Gipping, and is connected 
 by a canal with Ipswich. It has an 
 extensive trade in barley, malting is 
 much carried on, and about 130 acres 
 of hops are cultivated in the vicinity. 
 Hempen fabrics, sacking, and twine 
 are made here. 
 
 The Church, seen on the left, rising 
 above the town, is distinguished by 
 its taper spire of wood, sj)ringing from 
 a square liint tower to a height of 120 
 ft. It is for the most part Dec, and 
 contains the arched tomb of an abbot 
 of St. Osyth's in Essex (to which 
 monastery the eh. belonged), from 
 which the brasses have been torn, 
 possibly by Dowsing, the Puritan 
 iconoclast. The S. porch is very 
 good and lofty. A manor-house once 
 attached to St. Osyth's still remains. 
 The brothers Whistlecraft, whose 
 names were prefixed to ' The Monks 
 and the Giants,' are there described as 
 saddlers and harness makers of this 
 place, and some time after the pub- 
 lication of the book a person really 
 bearing that name claiiiied and ob- 
 tained a present from its actual 
 author, the Rt. Hon. J. H. Frere. 
 
 Young, Milton's tutor, to whom one 
 of his Latin elegies is addressed, was 
 vicar of Stowmarket, and has a monu- 
 ment in the ch. Young was chaplain 
 to the English factory at Hamburg, 
 when Milton, then aged 18, wrote 
 his ' Elegy,' which has been trans- 
 lated by Cowper. Milton afterwards 
 visited him here at ' Stoa Icenorum,' 
 as he calls Stowmarket ; and a mul- 
 berry tree of great size in the vicarage 
 garden is said to have been planted 
 by the poet, who, judging from the 
 traditions here and at Cambridge, 
 seems to have had a passion for 
 planting mulberries. An original 
 portrait of Young, who was one of the 
 authors of ' Smcctymnuus,' is pre- 
 served at the vicarage, where his 
 study remains unaltered. Crabbc 
 went to school here 1764:-G7. 
 
 [The Churches of Stonham Aspall 
 and Stonham Earl, 6i m. E. of Stow- 
 market, will repay the ecclesiologist 
 for his visit. At Stonham Earl, the 
 clerestory (Perp.), "with good two- 
 lights, and a great variety of flush 
 panelling," should be especially 
 noticed. ''The west doorwaj'' is 
 Perp. within a square head, and the 
 door is a remarkably fine piece of 
 wood carving. The nave has a fine 
 hammer-beam roof, with rich cor- 
 nice, spandrels, and pendants, all 
 much disfigm-ed by paint." The Ch. 
 at Stonham Aspall is principally 
 Dec, with a very fine Perp. clerestory 
 in the nave, having "rich two-light 
 windows, divided by delicately 
 panelled buttresses, from which the 
 shafts of the pinnacles rise. The 
 pinnacles themselves have been de- 
 stroyed." In the churchyard is a 
 monument for one of the Wingfield 
 family, long resident at Broughton 
 Hall, now a farm-house. The elfigy, 
 much injured by time and weather, 
 is represented grasj)ing a serpent. 
 Stonham Aspall is named from tlie 
 Aspall or Haspell family, its ancient 
 lords. Stonham Earl belonged to 
 the Earls of Norfolk.] 
 
 [At Buxhall, 3J m. S.W. of Stow- 
 market, is a good Dec. Ch., which 
 has sustained but little alteration. 
 In some of the windows are consi- 
 derable remains of stained glass, of 
 the same date as the building. The 
 font, and a double piscina (both Dec.) 
 in the S. wall of the chancel, deserve 
 special notice. The Ch. at Comhs, 2 
 m. S. of Stowmarket, has some good 
 Vevp. timber work (aisle roofs and 
 screens), and one of the north aisle 
 windows has been entirely filled 
 with old glass collected from different 
 parts of the ch.] 
 
 15^ m. Haughley Itoad Stat.; 
 hence on rt. runs the Branch Bail- 
 loay to Norwich (Rte, 8). Near the 
 Church is an Elizabethan manor- 
 house (Rev. Wm. H. Crawford). 
 
SurFOLlj:. 
 
 Boute 6. — WetJierden — Woolpit. 
 
 169 
 
 TJie Ch. has some good Dec. por- 
 tions. In one of the S. aisle ^vinclows 
 are the arms of Hailes Abbey, Glou- 
 cestershire, to which it belonged. 
 The Castle has a mound, moat, and 
 earthen rampart, and several frag- 
 ments of buildings. It belonged to 
 the Uffords and De la Poles, and 
 afterwards (with the manor-house) to 
 Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. 
 It is said to have been of Saxon 
 foundation ; and certainly represents 
 the Castle of Hageneth, stormed and 
 demolished by the Flemings, under 
 the Earl of Leicester, in October, 
 1173. It was then held for the King 
 (Henry II.) by Ranulph de Broc. 
 (See Framlingham, Rte. 5). 
 
 In this neighbourhood are exten- 
 sive hoiD-grounds. 
 
 [The Ch. of WetJierden, 2 m. E. of 
 Haughley Stat., has a Dec. chancel, 
 and on the north side, " a singular 
 chapel, with an arched roof of stone, 
 with bold ribs : it has a piscina, and 
 is only 7 ft. by 5 ft." The nave and 
 S. aisle are good Perp. At the E. 
 end of the latter is a small chajDel of 
 one bay, opening into the chancel, 
 and containing the high tomb of the 
 founder, Sir John Salyard, Cliief 
 Justice of England, temp. Richard 
 III. The roofs of nave and aisle are 
 very fine (the former has double 
 hammer-beams) ; and the porch and 
 exterior of the aisle are good examjDles 
 of Suffolk flint work. The ch. de- 
 serves a visit. In the parish are 
 some remains of Wetherden Hall, 
 the old seat of the Sulyards — built, 
 like the ch., by the Chief Justice.] 
 
 Woolpit Ch. (the name, ' Wlfpeta ' 
 in Domesday, indicates the site of a 
 wolf-pit or trap in the forest), 1 m. 
 1., is of great interest. The cliancel 
 is Dec, with a good E. window. The 
 nave piers and arches Dec. The nave 
 roof very fine Perp., with double 
 hammer-beams, and niches, richly 
 decorated with figures of angels and 
 saints. The aisle roofs are of the 
 Bame date. The rood-screen is Perp. 
 
 [Essex, ^c] 
 
 The clerestory and N. aisle windows 
 Perp., those of the S. aisle Dec. 
 The S. porch is very good Perp., with 
 a groined roof, and parvise chamber. 
 The tower and spire are modern. 
 The Ch., dedicated to St. Mary, be- 
 longed to the Abbey of Bury, and 
 contained an image of " Our Lady of 
 Woolpit," much resorted to by pil- 
 grims. It was in order to secure 
 this ch. for his monastery that Abbot 
 Sampson of Bury, wlien still a simple 
 monk, visited Rome during the 
 schism of the Popes Octavian and 
 Alexander, and pretended to be a 
 Scotsman in order to escape the 
 dangers of his passage through Italy. 
 When asked who he was, he would 
 only reply, " Ride ride Rome, tume 
 Cantivereburi," and so passed as a 
 pilgrim. (See the curious story in 
 ' Jocelin of Brakelond.') 
 
 Woolpit is the scene of a remark- 
 able story told by William of New- 
 burgh [Hist. Anglic. L. i. c. 27). 
 Near the town, he says, were some 
 very ancient trenches (fossse) called 
 " Wlfpittes " in English, which gave 
 name to it. Out of these trenches 
 there once came, in harvest time, 
 two children, a boy and ghl, whose 
 bodies were of a green colour, and 
 who wore dresses of some unknown 
 stuff. They were caught and taken 
 to the village, where for many 
 months they would eat nothing but 
 beans. They gradually lost their 
 green colour. The boy soon died. 
 The girl survived, and was married 
 to a man of Lynn. At first they 
 could speak no English : but when 
 they were able to do so they said 
 that they belonged to the land of St. 
 Blartin, an unknown country, where, 
 as they were once watching their 
 father's sheep, they heard a loud 
 noise, like the ringing of the bells of 
 St. Edmund's Monastery. And then 
 all at once they found themselves 
 among the reapers in the harvest 
 field at Woolpit. Their country was 
 a Christian land, and had churches. 
 There was no sun there, only a faint 
 
170 
 
 Boute 6. — Elmswetl — Thurston — Higliam. Sect. II. 
 
 twilight ; but beyond a broad river 
 there lay a land of light. The bell 
 ringing, the river, and the green 
 colour of the children, all belong to 
 true old "fairy mythology." 
 
 18 m. Elmswell Stat. The Ch. 
 contains a very line octagonal Dec. 
 font, supported on four eagles : and 
 the tower and porch " are exquisite 
 specimens of the Suffolk flint-work. 
 Tlie sacred monograms, I.H.C. and 
 M. crowned, IMaltese crosses, Cathe- 
 rine wheels, pots of lilies, and many 
 other devices, are worked with much 
 freedom and grace." 
 
 A kind of brick is made here, re- 
 markable for its hardness and white 
 colour. [At GedcUng, 4J m. S., is a 
 picturesque old moated hall, now a 
 farmhouse, once a seat of the Bucken- 
 bams]. 
 
 22| m. Thurston Stat. The line 
 here quits the chalk for the sands of 
 the plastic clay. On rt. is Thurston 
 Ch., with a Dec. S. aisle and Perp. 
 chancel. The clerestory lights of 
 the nave are deeply set quatrefoils. 
 
 Hougham, 1. of the Thurston Stat,, 
 is the seat of Philip Bennet, Esq. 
 The Hall is a modern castellated 
 building of brick, with a lofty tower. 
 The grounds are remarkable for 
 the fine growth of rhododendrons. 
 In the Ch. are brasses to Sir Koger 
 Drury (1418) and liis wife (1405),— 
 Baid to be the oldest of the many 
 monuments of that widely spread 
 race. During Elizabeth's progress 
 through Suftblk and Norfolk in 
 1578, Sir William Drury entertained 
 her Majesty at Rougham "with a 
 costly and delicate dinner." The 
 mother of Sir Robert Walpole was 
 Mary, only daughter of Sir Jeffry 
 Burwell, of Rougham. (A very re- 
 markable Roman sepulchral chamber 
 was found by Prof. Henslow in 1844 
 in the " East Low Hill' at Rougham. 
 Its remains were perfect, and the 
 contents, arranged as when first dis- 
 covered, are now in the Museum of 
 
 the Sufiblk Archaiological Society at 
 Bury.) At 
 
 26^ m. we reach Bury St. Ed- 
 mund's. (See Rte. 3.) 
 
 The first stat. on the line west- 
 ward (still a branch of the Great 
 Eastern), is 30 m. Saxham. Little 
 Saxham Church, with its round tower, 
 deserves a visit. (See Rte. 3, Ex- 
 cursion from Bury.) 
 
 The Ch. at lilsby, about 2 m. N. 
 of Saxham Stat., has a round tower of 
 late Norm, date, worth comparing 
 with that at Little Saxham. 
 
 33 m. Higham Stat. Barrow Ch., 
 S. of this station (for the most part 
 late E. Eng.), contains the tomb of 
 Sir Clement Heigham (d. 1570), 
 
 " A man ■whom God hath given great preg- 
 nancie of wit, 
 And therewithal such utterance as for the 
 same was fitte." 
 
 Sir Clement was Speaker of Queen 
 Mary's third parliament, which made 
 so edifying a submission to Cardinal 
 Pole (see Froude, 'Hist. Eng.,' vol. 
 vi.). Here is also a mural monu- 
 ment by Nich. Stone (who received 
 40^. for it) for his son. Sir John 
 Heigham. 
 
 36 m, Kennet Stat. [S. 2.| m. is 
 Moulton, where is a good Perp. Ch., 
 well restored. The roofs are good, 
 and some old woodwork remains, 
 together with some fragments of 
 stained glass. Dalham Hall, 2 m. 
 S.E., was built by Simon Patrick, Bp. 
 of Ely. The park is picturesque.] 
 There is nothing to delay the tourist 
 until he reaches 
 40f m. Newmarlcet. (See Cam- 
 bridge, Rte. 2). 
 
Bdffolk. Boute 7. — Ipsivich to Nonmcli hy DcbenJiam, &c. 171 
 
 EOUTE 7. 
 
 IPSWICH TO NORWICH BY DEBEN- 
 HAM, EYE, AND DISS. 
 
 {Boad.') 
 
 This route follows the old high 
 road from Ipswich to Diss. 
 
 2 m. beyond Ipswich is Westerfield, 
 where is a station on the branch of 
 the East Suffolk Rly. which runs to 
 Woodbridge. (For the churches at 
 Tuddenham and Playford, within 
 short distances of Westerfield, see 
 Ete. 5). 
 
 Wifnesham, 1. of the road, was the 
 birthplace (1759) of Kirby the ento- 
 mologist. He was born in Witnes- 
 ham Hall, long the property of the 
 Meadows family, one of whom his 
 father, William Kirby, had married. 
 
 There is little to delay the tourist, 
 and the churches on either side of the 
 road will not repay a visit, imtil he 
 reaches 
 
 82 m. Helmingliam Hall (John 
 Tollemache, Esq.), the seat of the 
 Tollemache family, in the midst of a 
 fine park traversed by noble avenues. 
 The hall is a venerable brick man- 
 sion of the reign of Henry VIII., 
 suiTounded by a moat of clear water, 
 abounding in fish, and crossed by 
 a drawbridge, still regularly raised 
 at night, and which is traditionally 
 eaid to have been drawn up every 
 night for 800 years. It^^has certainly 
 been so for the last 300. The hall is 
 an interesting and well-preserved spe- 
 cimen of domestic architecture, little 
 altered since the time when Queen 
 Elizabeth was entertained here for 
 five successive days by Sir Lionel 
 Tollemache. The house retains its 
 old furniture, oaken cabinets, and 
 panelling of oak black as ebony with 
 age. Here are preserved the bed, 
 lute, and spinett of Queen Elizabeth ; 
 
 also her portrait, with auburn locks. 
 Elizabeth was here in 15G1, and on 
 leaving Helminghani gave tlie lute 
 on which she had played during her 
 visit to her host. It has since been 
 carefully preserved under glass, and 
 is no doubt a genuine relic. The 
 hall, with an open roof of timber, 
 is hung round with ancient armour. 
 The large dining-room contains a 
 collection of old " blackjacks." The 
 library abounds in early printed 
 books, among them a copy of Cax- 
 ton's ' Game of Chess,' the first book 
 printed in England. There is also 
 a MS. copy of Alfred's translation 
 of Orosius. Tiie whole house is 
 adorned with family portraits, re- 
 markable rather in an historical point 
 of view than as specimens of art. 
 There are, however, some by Lely, 
 Kneller, and Reynolds, and two 
 landscapes by Wihon — views in 
 Cheshire. The wood carving of the 
 principal chimney-pieces is very 
 good and noticeable. 
 
 Helmingham was acquired in the 
 15th centy. by marriage with its 
 heiress. 
 
 In the park are some magnificent 
 oaks (one between the Hall and the 
 Church is 23 ft. in girth) ; and some 
 red deer are kept here, besides large 
 herds of fallow. 
 
 The family is of great antiquity, 
 having held lands at Bentley in this 
 county before the Conquest, whence 
 the lines inscribed on the old manor 
 house : — 
 
 ," When William the Conqueror relgn'd with 
 great fame, 
 Bentley was my seat, and Tollemache was 
 my name." 
 
 In Domesday Book the name is 
 written Toelmag. 
 
 In the Ch., which stands within 
 the park, are many monuments to the 
 Tollemaches (beginning early in the 
 17th centy.), including one to Gen. 
 Thos. Tollemache, killed in leading 
 the ill-designed descent upon Brest 
 in lG9-i ; and one by Nollckens, to 
 the memory of the Countess of Dygart, 
 
 I 2 
 
17: 
 
 lioiife 1. — Helmingham and Brome Halls. Sect. II. 
 
 who died in 1 804. The S. side of the 
 nave is occupied by a costly monu- 
 mental structure, so large and lofty 
 tliat the roof has been displaced to 
 make room for it. It contains in four 
 niches kneeling statues of the four 
 first Tollemaches who settled at Hel- 
 mingham, The ch. itself is Dec. and 
 Perp. The tower of flint was built by 
 one of the Tollemaches in 1487, and 
 boars a curious inscription on its S. 
 side near the ground, " Scandit ad 
 ethera virgo puerpera virgula Jesse." 
 (The ch. is dedicated to the Virgin, 
 but this inscription seems to indicate 
 that it was dedicated in especial 
 honour of tlie Assumption. Gres.sing- 
 hall in Norfolk is thus dedicated.) 
 
 Both ch. and mansion have been 
 admirably restored by tlie present 
 proiJrietor of the domain, John Tolle- 
 mache, Esq., M.P. Numerous Ro- 
 man remains have been found in the 
 neighbourhood of Helmingham, and 
 in the " Wilderness " — a part of the 
 Eectory garden — 24 skeletons were 
 discovered in 1864. The bones of 
 animals and pottery, found with 
 them, seem of the British period; 
 and the remains altogether indicate 
 some special catastrophe — probably 
 a general massacj'e — of which the 
 date and history can only be guessed 
 at. The ch. is near a large ancient 
 cemetery (British), and may mark 
 the Christianization of an old sacred 
 site. 
 
 10 m., J m. off the road, .rt. is 
 Framsclen, where is a tolerably good 
 Dec. and Perp. ch. The porch and 
 tower, both Perp., are the best por- 
 tions. At 
 
 12 m. rt. is Brome Hall, a pic- 
 turesque Elizabetlian house, built 
 most probably by Sir Thomas Corn- 
 wallis (d. 1590). Brome was the 
 cradle of tlie distinguished family 
 of Cornwallis, and was acquired, 
 very early in the 15th centy. by the 
 marriage of John Cornwallis, son of 
 Thomas " Cornwalleys," merchant of 
 
 London, with Philippa, daughter 
 of Robert Buctow, Lord of Brome 
 and Oakley. His descendants were 
 settled here for more than four 
 centuries, and enjoyed the successive 
 creations of (1G61) Baron Cornwallis, 
 (1753) Viscount Brome and Earl 
 Cornwallis, and (1792) Marquess 
 Cornwallis. The marquisate became 
 extinct in 1823, and the other titles 
 soon afterwards. Brome Hall has 
 been partly pulled down ; but it is 
 still picturesque, and its woods and 
 oak avenue are fine. In the Ch. (Dec. 
 and Perp. with a round tower — it 
 has been well restored) are some 
 Cornwallis monuments ; the most 
 interesting being that of Sir John 
 Cornwallis (d. 1544) and his wife. 
 Sir John was knighted by Hen. VIII. 
 for his bravery at the siege of Morlaix 
 in Britanny, and was made Steward 
 of the household of the young prince, 
 afterwards Edw, VI. His eftigy re- 
 presents him in armour, with his 
 Steward's staff. Brome is now the 
 property of Sii* E. C. Kerrison, Bart., 
 whose principal residence, Oakley 
 Hall, in the parish of Hoxne, with 
 its memories of St. Edmund, is about 
 2 m. N.E. (see Rte. 9). At 
 
 12 J m. we reach Debenliam, a 
 market town of 1488 Inhab., at the 
 source of the Deben, in a pretty, well 
 wooded country. The Ch. is Dec. 
 and Perp. of no very high interest. 
 The lower part of the tower, however, 
 may possibly be Saxon. It has long 
 and short work at the angles. The 
 upper part is Dec. 
 
 At RecUingfield, 4 m. beyond De- 
 benham, and 2 m. rt. of the road, a 
 Benedictine nunnery was founded in 
 1120. There are still considerable 
 remains of it in a farmhouse, now 
 called the " Hall." 
 
 No important ch., or other object 
 of interest, occurs between Deben- 
 liam and 
 
 19^ m. Eye (Pop. 2430), so called 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boute 7. — Eye Castle and (Jhiircli. 
 
 173 
 
 from its original position on an " eye" 
 or islet surrounded by streamlets. 
 (A short branch line runs to Eye 
 from the station at Mellis, on the 
 Eastern Union Ely. See Rte. 8). 
 The points of interest at Eye are the 
 castle and the church. The Castle, 
 or rather its site, fur only fragments 
 of its Norm, stonework remain, con- 
 sists ^f a lofty moimd, occupying the 
 eastern end of a large elliptical en- 
 closure. It belongs no doubt to the 
 same class of works as those at Clare 
 (Rte. 4), Haughley (Rte. 6), Har- 
 grave, Denham (Rte. 3), in Suifolk, 
 and at Thetford (Norfolk, Rte. 12), 
 Castle Acre (Rte. 7), and Castle 
 Rising (Rte. 9) in Norfolk. All 
 these are strongholds, possibly of the 
 British period, but occupied sub- 
 sequently by Romans and Saxons ; 
 and in most cases, as at Eye, chosen 
 as the sites of Norm, stone-built 
 "castles." That of Eye was con- 
 structed by Robert Malet, whose 
 father fought at Hastings. It was 
 the head of the Honom-, an ancient 
 demesne of the Crown, but granted 
 by the Crown to various persons, 
 during life or at pleasure. The 
 Uifords and De la Poles, Earls of 
 Suffolk, held it for some time ; and 
 it formed part of the dower of the 
 Queen Henrietta Maria. Beyond 
 changes of this sort the Castle of 
 Eye has little historical interest. 
 Portions of Norm, masonry remain 
 on the N. side of the mound, and on 
 either side of the enclosure. 
 
 The Church which has been (1869) 
 restored at a considerable cost, is 
 a very fine building (chiefly Perp.), 
 dedicated to SS. Peter and Paul. The 
 tower, 101 ft. high, is an admirable 
 specimen of stone and flint work. The 
 arms on the central battlement, on 
 the S. side, are those of John de la 
 Pole, d. 1493. The fine S. porch is of 
 the same date and character as the 
 tower. (The portal within the porch 
 is E. Eng.j. The tower arch is also 
 E. Eng., as are the nave, piers, and 
 arches. The clerestory and open 
 
 wooden roof are Perp. ; as is the 
 very fine rood-screen, with its lower 
 panels filled with painted figures of 
 saints. Among these are St. Wil- 
 liam of Norwich, the boy said to 
 have been crucified by the Jews ; 
 and King Hen. VI. The painted 
 rood-beam bears an inscription from 
 Cranmer's Bible, (Matt. xvi.). 
 
 The church belonged to a Bene- 
 dictine Priory founded here by Robert 
 Malet. The whole of the churches 
 in Dunwich (the place of the first 
 E. Anglian see, Rte. 5) were appro- 
 priated to this priory, which possessed 
 a treasure called the ' Red Book of 
 Eye ' by which the people of the 
 district were accustomed to swear. 
 It was a copy of the Gospels said to 
 have belonged to St. Felix, and was 
 brought to Eye from Dunwich when 
 the ch. of St. Felix (?) was under- 
 mined by the sea. Leland saw it 
 here. There are some scanty re- 
 mains of the Priory, chiefly notice- 
 able for a series of small moated 
 enclosures. 
 
 William Broome, who translated 
 eight books of the ' Odyssey ' for Pope, 
 was vicar of Eye. 
 
 British urns in great numbers were 
 found on the Abbey farm in 1818. 
 ('Gent. Mag.,' Aug., 1818), and 
 more recently at Stoke Ash, near 
 Eye. Many hundred aurei of Roman 
 emperors from Valens to Honorius 
 were found near the river in 1781 ; 
 and it is probable that one line of 
 Roman road ran from Norwich by 
 Eye, Haughley, Clare, and Colchester 
 to London. 
 
 25 m. Crossing the river Waveney, 
 which divides the two counties, we 
 enter Norfolk, and reach Diss, where 
 is a station on the Eastern Union 
 Rly. (,For Diss, and the line thence 
 to Norwich, see Norfolk, Rte. 1).. 
 
174 Boute 8. — Ipawkli to Nomich by Stowmarket, &c. Sect. II. 
 
 ROUTE 8. 
 
 IPSWICH TO NORWICH BY STOW- 
 MARKET, FININGHAM AND MELLIS. 
 
 (i?az7. Eastern Union). 
 
 For this line, as far as Haugliley 
 June, see Ete, 6. 
 
 Beyond Hanghley the line is 
 carried through a fertile and well- 
 cultivated district, slightly undulat- 
 ing. The villages are generally 
 distant from the line, as well as 
 the country seats, though several 
 churches are visible from it. 
 
 The Ch. of Wyverstone, seen 1,, is 
 for the most part Dec, but will not 
 rejiay a visit. 
 
 18| m. Finingham Stat, The chief 
 object of interest in the Cli., (which is 
 Perp.), is the font-cover, the upper 
 part of which is very good. 
 
 Bacton Ch., seen rt. before reach- 
 ing Finingham, is Dec. and Perp. 
 with a fine Perp. roof. "It has 
 double hammer-beam principals be- 
 tween each window, and a rich 
 cornice between the principals." 
 
 [At Great Thornham, 3 m. N.E. 
 of Finingham, is Tliornham Parh 
 (Lord Henniker). The house con- 
 tains some good pictures. The Ch., 
 which stands in the park, has been 
 restored.! 
 
 23 m. Blellis Stat. The ch. here 
 is unimportant. (From this stat. a 
 short branch line runs to Eye, see 
 Etc. 7.) 
 
 [At Burgate, 1 m. N.W., is a Dec. 
 
 Ch., much injm-ed by alterations, but 
 well worthy of attention, and of 
 comparison with the ch, of Red- 
 grave (see Rte. 9), which, it has been 
 
 suggested, may have been the work 
 of the same architect. It contains 
 the very fine hrass, on a Dec. altar- 
 tomb (having shields of arms and 
 winged hearts in its panels), of Sir 
 William de Burgate (1409) and his 
 wife Eloanora, daughter of Sir Thos. 
 Vise de Lou, an old family originally 
 settled at Shelfhanger, Norfolk, 
 The fringe of small bunches of 
 rings, added to the camail and 
 skirt of the hawberk, first appears 
 on the brasses of the first ten years 
 of this century. The font, octagonal 
 and raised on two steps, was the gift 
 of the same Sir Wm. Burgate, as 
 appears from an inscription round 
 its rim. The ch. chest is worth 
 notice. It was not carved, but has 
 been jjainted with a representation 
 of two knights tilting. The work 
 is of the 14th centy.] 
 
 26 m. Diss Stat, (see for Diss and 
 the line beyond, Norfolk, Rte. 1). 
 
 ROUTE 9. 
 
 BURY ST. EDMUNDS TO BUNGAY 
 AND BECCLES. 
 
 (Road. Bail from Bungay to Beceles.') 
 
 Leaving Bury by the high-road, 
 we reach 
 
 2 m. 1., Barton Hall (Sir H. Bun- 
 bury), a large modern house contain- 
 ing some very fine paintings (see 
 
Suffolk. Bte.9. — Bury St. Edmund's to Bungay and Becdes, 175 
 
 Ete. 3, Exc. from Buiy, where also 
 Ixworth is described). 
 
 At 6 m. Ixicarth is a fine Perp. ch., 
 worth notice. 
 
 [3 m. N.W. of Ixworth is Eo- 
 nington, the bu-thplace of Kobert 
 Bloomfield, author of the 'Farmer's 
 Boy.' Honington Ch. has a good 
 Norm. S. door, enriched.] 
 
 On rt., 2 m., is Stoio Langfoft Hall 
 (H. Wilson, Esq.). The Ch., which 
 stands within a double-trenched 
 camp, is early Perp., and worth a 
 visit, not only as a good arcliitectural 
 example, but from the beauty of its 
 position and the admii-able order in 
 which it is kept. There is a large 
 fresco of St. Christopher on the 
 N. wall. The windows are filled 
 with modem stained, glass. In the 
 chancel is a monument to the father 
 of Sir Simonds d'Ewes, the anti- 
 quary, who bought Stow in 1614 : 
 his son enlarged and beautified the 
 hall. 
 
 IJ m. E. is Little Ashjield (gene- 
 rally called Badwell Ash), the birth- 
 place of Lord Thurlow, 1735, son of 
 the vicar there. 
 
 Some interesting churches lie at 
 short distances from the main road 
 on either side, between Ixworth and 
 Diiis. 
 
 8 m., 1| m. 1., is Bardwell Ch, 
 (see Exc. from Bury, Ete. 3). 
 
 10| m., 1| m. rt., is Walsham-le- 
 Willoics, a fine Perp. Ch., with a 
 good rood-screen and open roof to 
 nave and aisles. IMueh of the old 
 seating remains. There is a good 
 font ; and the flintwork of the porch, 
 and between the clerestory windows, 
 is fine. Barningham, 2^ m. off the 
 road, 1., has a Dec. chancel, a Perp. 
 nave, the windows in which retain 
 fragments of stained glass, and a 
 very good Perp. rood-screen, with 
 its original painting and gilding. 
 
 14 m., close adjoining the road, is 
 the ch. of RicMngliall Inferior, with 
 a tower, round and Norm, below, 
 and above, octagonal and Perp. The 
 pillars dividing the nave from the 
 S. aisle are E. Eng., the chancel 
 early Dec, the nave Perp. At the 
 E. end of the S. aisle is a fine Perp. 
 window of five lights. The W. and 
 S. windows of this aisle are Dec, 
 with beautiful geometrical tracery. 
 In all are fragments of stained glass. 
 About 3 m. N., on the extreme 
 border of the county, is Thelnethamy 
 a fine Dec. Ch., with good tracery in 
 its windows. 
 
 15 m., Botesdale, a contraction of 
 " Botolphsdale," where the Chapel,. 
 dedicated to St. Botolph, has some 
 good Perp. portions. It was founded 
 as a chantry by John Sherifl"; and 
 an inscription on the N. side runs 
 "Orate pro animabus Johannia 
 Sheriff et uxoris ejus." In the old 
 Crrammar-school here the 1st Lord 
 Ellenborough received his early edu- 
 cation. 
 
 151 m. 1. is Bedgrave EaU (Geo. 
 Holt Wilson, Esq.), a Grecian build- 
 ing, with a central cujDola supported 
 on 4 Ionic columns. The house was 
 erected in 1770, and cost 30,000Z. 
 George IV., while Prince of Wales, 
 visited the late Admiral Wilson here, 
 and pronounced the situation of Bed- 
 grave Hall the most admirable for 
 a country house in England. What- 
 ever may be thought of this judg- 
 ment, the park is unquestionably 
 pleasant and well wooded, with a 
 lake of 46 acres ; and the site of the 
 house was approved by perhaps a 
 better judge than George IV., — the 
 famous Abbot Sampson of Bury, who 
 built the first " manor house " here. 
 At the Dissolution, this manor, with 
 some contiguous estates, was granted 
 by Henry VIII. to Sir Nicholas 
 Bacon, made Lord Keeper of the 
 Great Seal by Elizabeth, who visited 
 him at Eedgrave, and complained 
 
176 
 
 Boute 9. — Bedgrave — Palgrave — Scole. Sect. II. 
 
 that the house he had built (not the 
 present one) was " too little for him ;" 
 to which he adroitly replied, " No, 
 Madam; but your Highness has made 
 me too big for it," It was afterwards 
 purchased, toward the end of the 17th 
 centy., by Chief Justice Holt, but 
 of the old mansion there are no re- 
 mains. 
 
 In Bedgrave Church (St. Mary) is 
 a monument to Sir N. Bacon and his 
 wife, 1616. (He was eldest son of the 
 Lord Keeper, brother of Lord Bacon 
 and the 1st baronet created by James, 
 I.) Their effigies, in marble, were 
 carved by Nicholas Stone, and cost 
 2001. There are other monuments to 
 their son. Sir Edmund Bacon, and 
 to Lord Chief Justice Holt, who pur- 
 chased this estate. His statue, of 
 white marble, represents him seated 
 in his robes, supported on either hand 
 by Justice and Mercy. Cardinal 
 Wolsey was rector of Redgrave, 1506. 
 The ch. itself is very fine Dec, and 
 has an E. window of 7 lights with 
 beautiful curvilinear traces. The 
 chancel deserves special attention. 
 The nave roof is Perp. 
 
 In Redgrave parish, but within the 
 bounds of Norfolk, is Lopham Gate, 
 where are the main springs of the 
 Waveney and the Little Ouse — one 
 nmning E. to Yarmouth, the other 
 N.W. to Lynn. 
 
 At WortJiam, U m. E. of Red- 
 grave, is a good Perp. Ch. with a 
 circ. tower, now in ruins. It served 
 as one of the watch-towers for the 
 Abbot of Bury. Some way up, on 
 the inside, is a fireplace. 
 
 19 m., 1| m. 1., is Falgrave, where 
 is a Dec. and Perp. Ch. (which has 
 been restored) of some interest. The 
 nave roof is Perp. and good ; and 
 there is a good Trans. Norm. font. 
 In the ch. is buried "honest Tom 
 Martin of Palgrave," the historian of 
 Thetford. He died in 1774, possessed 
 of a large collection of MSS. and anti- 
 quities. His INISS. relating to Suf- 
 folk are now at Hardwick Hall. 
 
 1| m. beyond Palgrave, across the 
 "Waveney, is Diss (see Norfolk, Rte. 
 1). At 
 
 24 m. Scole, the road crosses the 
 "Waveney and the Norwich Rly., and 
 enters Norfolk. 1. is a turnpike road 
 to Norwich, 19 m. 
 
 The road from Scole to Bungay 
 takes the 1. bank of the "Waveney^ 
 near to the river. At Harleston it 
 meets the line of rly. running from 
 Beccles by Bungay to Tivetshall, and 
 there joining the main line of the 
 Great Eastern Rly, 
 
 Scole or Osmundeston is a village 
 of 685 inhab., situated at the point 
 of junction of the roads from Bury to 
 Yarmouth and from Ipswich to Nor- 
 wich. This was a very noted place 
 in the days of old-fashioned travel- 
 ling. Its principal building is a large 
 inn, the White Hart, of brick, erected 
 in 1655, by John Peck, merchant of 
 Norwich. The house still retains 
 some carving ; but had until the 
 end of the last century an enormous 
 sign containing many figures — Diana 
 and Actseon, Charon, Cerberus, and 
 sundry other worthies, carved in ^ 
 wood by Fairchild, at a cost of 1057Z. 
 defrayed by John Peck, In the house 
 was a round bed, large enough to 
 hold 20 couples. Bed and sign have 
 entirely disappeared, Roman re- 
 mains have been found at Scole ; and 
 a field between the ch. and the river 
 appears to have been a burial-ground. 
 
 27 m, Thorpe-Ahhots. The Ch. has 
 a round tower of late Norm, date, 
 with an octagonal summit, which 
 seems to be original. The "W. door 
 is pointed Norm, In the tower is an 
 original flue, 9 inches square. — Wood- 
 loard. 
 
 [li m. E. of Scole, and in the 
 parish of Hoxne, is Oaldey Park (Sir 
 E. C. Kerrison, Bart.). The house 
 was nearly rebuilt by the late baronet, 
 from the designs of Sidney Smirhe. 
 It is strictly " classical ; " and con- 
 tains some fine rooms, sumptuously 
 furnished, and some good pictures. 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Boute ^.-^Oaldey Park — Syleliam, 
 
 177 
 
 The house is well placed, overlooking 
 the valley of the Dove, which here 
 flows on to join the Waveney ; and 
 the gardens are fine. The park is 
 rich in nohle trees ; and here stood, 
 until 1849 (when it fell), a very 
 ancient oak, to which, according to 
 the local tradition, St. Edmund was 
 bound when the Danes made him a 
 mark for their arrows (see Bury St. 
 Edmund's, Kte. 3). The tree was 
 20 ft. in circumference ; some of the 
 branches measured 70 ft. long ; and 
 the entire oak contained 17 loads of 
 timber. It is somewhat remarkable 
 that when the tree was broken up, 
 an arrow-head was foimd in the 
 heart of it. 
 
 The " Eglesdune," where St. Ed- 
 mund was taken by the Danes (see 
 Ete. 3), was in the immediate 
 neighbourhood of Hoxne ; and it was 
 among the woods here that the wolf 
 of the legend protected the Martyr's 
 head. The wooden chapel in which 
 the body of St. Edmund lay imtil 
 its removal to Bury was at Hoxne, 
 on the site of what is now called the 
 " Abbey." This was a small priory, 
 founded in 950 by Theodored, Bishop 
 of London, and attached to the great 
 house at Bury. The tradition of 
 the place asserts that King Edmund 
 hid himself from the Danes under a 
 bridge over the Dove, now called 
 "Gold Bridge;" and that a newly 
 married couple, crossing the bridge 
 by moonlight, saw the reflection of 
 the King's golden spurs in the water, 
 and betrayed him. Accordingly St. 
 Edmund pronounced a curse on every 
 couple who should cross this bridge 
 on their way to be married ; and 
 until the bridge was rebuilt in the 
 present century, a wide circuit was 
 taken by bride and bridegroom in 
 order to avoid it. (It is thought 
 that the King's bright armour is 
 still to be seen on certain nights, 
 glimmering through the water of 
 the brook.) Hoxne Church is en- 
 tirely Perp. The chancel has been 
 lately rebuilt. The gravel pits of 
 
 Hoxne, lying in the valley of the 
 Waveney, are famous for having 
 yielded, late in the last century — and 
 long before the discovery of similar 
 remains in the valley of the Somme 
 — rude flint weapons of the earliest 
 or " palseo-lithic " period. They were 
 found, together with bones of extinct 
 animals, and were presented to the 
 museum of the Society of Antiquaries 
 (where they still are) by Mr. Frere, 
 who described and figured them in 
 the 'Archseologia' for 1800. The gra- 
 vel beds of the Waveney are of the 
 same period and general character as 
 those of the Somme, and numerous 
 rude flints have been found along 
 the course of the river since atten- 
 tion was directed to such relics by 
 the great discoveries on the Somme. 
 (See Introd., ' Geology.') Celtic, So- 
 man, Saxon, and Danish relics have 
 also been found in some quantities 
 on the banks of the Waveney. A 
 very fine Eoman glass vase, found 
 at Geldestone, is figured in the 
 ' Archseol. Journal,' vol. vi. 
 
 1 m. N. of Scole is Thelveton Hall 
 (Thos. Havers, Esq.), a picturesque 
 Elizabethan mansion.J 
 
 [Just beyond Thorpe the road turns 
 ofl;" rt. to (2 m.) Wingfield. It passes, 
 on the rt. bank of the AVaveney, the 
 village ofSyleham, no doubt the " Se- 
 leham" of Benedictus Abbas, and 
 noticeable as the place, where, ac- 
 cording to the chronicler who passes 
 under that name, Henry II. (July 
 25, 1174) received the submission 
 of Hugh Bigot, and the sm-render of 
 his neighbouring castles of Bungay 
 and Framlingham — the " Freming- 
 ham " of Benedict. Bigot had sup- 
 ported the insurrection in the pre- 
 ceding year (see Framlingham, Kte. 
 5, and post, Bimgay), and with the 
 Flemings, whom he kept in his pay, 
 had attacked and burnt Norwich 
 some time after the battle of Forn- 
 ham. — Ben. Abb. (See Fornham, 
 Kte. 3). Benedict asserts that the 
 King *' fixit tentoria sua " at Sele- 
 
 J 3 
 
178 
 
 Boute 9. — Wingfield — Fressingfield. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 ham. The church was the scene of 
 the submission ; the present chancel 
 may have been then standing. The 
 nave is Perp. Whilst Henry was at 
 Syleham, the horse of a Templar 
 struck the King on the thigh, and 
 produced a woimd which was not 
 cured for some years. — Hoveden, 
 Ben. Ahh. 
 
 Wingfield was the seat of an an- 
 cient family of that name, and passed 
 from them to the De la Poles by the 
 marriage of the Wingfield heiress to 
 Michael De la Pole, 1st Earl of Suffolk 
 of that line. The Church is through- 
 out late Dec, and seems to have been 
 rebuilt when it was made collegiate 
 in accordance with the will (dated 
 1362) of Sir John de Wingfield, the 
 last male of his house, and the father 
 of Michael De la Pole's wife. The 
 chancel alone is somewhat later than 
 the rest of the chui-ch, and the 
 mouldings on two of its beautiful 
 arches, which show the badges of 
 Wingfield and Stafibrd (the wing 
 and the Stafford knot), prove that 
 they were the work of the '2nd 
 De la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, whose 
 mother was the Wingfield heiress, 
 and whose wife was a daughter of 
 the Earl of Stafford. The window 
 tracery, especially that (late Dec.) 
 in the S. nave aisle, deserves notice. 
 Over the N. chancel aisle is an upper 
 chamber of wood, accessible only by 
 a ladder, and possibly iised by the 
 college of priests as a library and 
 vestment-room. The most interesting 
 portion of the church is the chancel, 
 with its Wingfield and De la Pole 
 monuments (all engraved by Stoth- 
 ard in his ' Monumental Effigies '). 
 The earliest is that in the N.wall, and 
 has no doubt been rightly assigned 
 by the Eev. C. E. Manning ('Sirftblk 
 Archfeol.' vol., iii.) to Sir John de 
 Wingfield, the last male of his race. 
 He was " a chief favourite and coun- 
 sellor of the Black Prince, whom he 
 accompanied in his expedition to 
 Languedoc in 1355." The armour 
 is of that period, and the beautiful 
 
 canopy of the tomb should be noticed. 
 On the S. side of the chancel is the 
 altar-tomb with effigies (in wood) of 
 Michael De la Pole, 2nd Earl, and 
 his wife, Catherine Stafford. He 
 died at the siege of Harfleur in 1415; 
 and his armour shows the tran- 
 sitional character (half plate, half 
 mail) of that date. Tlie third monu- 
 ment is that of John De la Pole, 2nd 
 Duke of Suffolk, and his wife Eliza- 
 beth, daughter of Eicliard Planta- 
 genet, Duke of York, and sister of 
 King Edward IV. This Duke, who 
 wears the mantle of the Garter, died 
 in 1491. His wife survived him, since 
 she wears the barbe, or widow's 
 plaited covering for the neck. The 
 father of this Duke John — William 
 De la Pole, 4th Earl and 1st Duke 
 of Suffolk — was also buried here, 
 but no memorial of him now exists. 
 He was tlie " Sufiblk " of Shak- 
 speare's ' Henry VI.,' Part II. ; who 
 was thought to have had a share in 
 the miu-der of Duke Humphrey at 
 Bury (see Bunj, Ete. 3), and who 
 was himself beheaded on Dover 
 sands. His body was brought to 
 Wingfield. There were many fine 
 De la Pole brasses on the chancel 
 floor, all of which have disappeared. 
 At the corner of the church-yard are 
 some scanty remains of the College. 
 About J m. from the church is 
 the OasfZe, originally built by Michael 
 De la Pole, 1st Earl of Sufiblk. It 
 now serves as a farmhouse. The 
 gatehouse of the S. front, its flanking 
 towers, and curtain wall, are perfect, 
 and are, no doubt, the work of Earl 
 Michael. 
 
 Stradhroolc, 2 m. S. of Wingfield, 
 gives the title of Earl to the family 
 of Eons, and was, it is said, the 
 birth-place of the famous Grostete, 
 Bishop of Lincoln. 
 
 Fressingfield, 2 m. E., stands plea- 
 santly in its wide valley. The 
 Church is Dec. and Perp., with an 
 enriched S. Porch, and some fine 
 woodwork. The cornice of the nave- 
 
Suffolk. Bte. 9. — Harleston — Bedenlmll — Flixton Hall. 179 
 
 roof is especially noteworthy. In 
 the chancel is a good brass for 
 Wilham Brewes (1489) and his wife. 
 But Fressingfield is chiefly me- 
 morable for its recollections of Wil- 
 liam Bancroft, the nonjuring Arbp. 
 of Canterbury, who was born at 
 Uflbrd Hall, in this parish (where his 
 ancestors had lived for some genera- 
 tions), retired here after his resig- 
 nation of the primacy, died here in 
 1693, and is buried in the church- 
 yard. The short inscription on his 
 tomb was prepared by himself.] 
 
 Eeturniug to the main road, we 
 reach 
 
 31 m. Harleston (pop. 1425), once 
 Heroldveston. This is a market- 
 town, but a chapelry in Eedenhall. 
 Here is a station on the line of rly. 
 between Bungay and Tivetshall on 
 the Norwich line (see Norfolk, Ete. 
 1). The turnpike road from Har- 
 leston to Bungay (7 ra.) continues on 
 the left or Norfolk bank of the Wa- 
 veney, nearly parallel with the rly. 
 at 
 
 32 m., Eedenhall, Ih m. distant, is 
 the parish Church, chiefly Perp., 
 containing monuments to the fa- 
 milies of Wogan and Kerrich, and 
 some armorial bearings in stained 
 glass. It was rebuilt by Thomas E. 
 of Norfolk about 132U. The fine 
 tower (1460-1520) was struck by 
 lightning, and is now braced with 
 iron. 
 
 1 m. 1., Gawdy Hall (Mrs.Holmes). 
 An old house in a pretty park, for- 
 merly the seat of the Gawdys and 
 the Wogans. (Across the river is 
 Homersjield, the church of which is 
 of little interest. The rly. station for 
 Homersfield is on the Norfolk bank.) 
 
 33J m. Wortwell, a hamlet of Ee- 
 denhall ; 1 m. S. of which, over the 
 Waveney, is Flixton, (Felix-ton) so 
 named from Felix, the Burgundian 
 Bishop, who founded the see of Dun- 
 wich, circ. 630. 
 
 (See Dunwich, Ete. 5.) 
 
 The whole of this district, includ- 
 
 ing what are now the five " South- 
 elmham" parishes, was granted to 
 Felix by Sigebert, King of East 
 Anglia, and it is probable that the 
 bishop had a dwelling-place here.) 
 
 A priory of Augustinian nuns 
 was founded at Flixton in 1258 
 by Margery do Creke. It stood 
 about 1 m. S. of the church, where 
 a broad moat encircles an old farm- 
 house, and a part of the convent 
 chapel. Flixton Hall (Sir E. Shafto 
 Adair) is a fine old mansion, built 
 (1615) in the Inigo Jones style, and 
 was formerly defended by a moat. 
 It was nearly destroyed by fire in 
 1846, and has since been rebuilt. 
 It is said that Charles II., on his 
 way to Yarmouth, was greatly struck 
 with the situation and grandeur of 
 Flixton ; and inquiring who lived 
 there, was told it belonged to a 
 " Popish dog." " The dog," said the 
 King, " has a very beautiful kennel." 
 The tower of the church was of very 
 early (perhaps Saxon) character, but 
 was pulled down in 1856, and re- 
 constructed. It had a triangular- 
 headed^ doorway, 3 small round- 
 headed windows above, and above 
 again 1 of 2 lights divided by a 
 short shaft. A grave, constructed 
 of rag masonry as a substitute for a 
 solid stone coffin, was found within 
 the tower, in the middle of the area. 
 The cavity was shaped to the head 
 and shoulders of the body. The oaks 
 in the woods of Flixton are seen 
 from the Norfolk side of the river. 
 
 35 m., Denton, where is a Church 
 of some interest, chiefly Dec, with 
 a good groined porch, and some 
 painted glass. 
 
 36 m., Earsham; beyond which 
 the road re-crosses the Waveney and 
 enters a small peninsula of Su£folk 
 where stands 
 
 38 m. Bungay. (Inw: King's Head.) 
 A town of 3805 inhab., prettily situ- 
 ated on a peninsula formed by the 
 windings of the Waveney, which is 
 navigable for barges, and which 
 
180 
 
 Boute 9. — Bungay : Castle ; CJmrches. Sect II. 
 
 nearly surrounds the town. Hence 
 the name — Bungay.) From the 
 high ground on which Bungay is 
 l^laced, pleasant views are com- 
 manded ; and the neighbourhood is 
 rich in fine trees. The two churches 
 and the remains of the castle are the 
 sights of Bungay. The town itself 
 is comparatively modern, since it 
 ■was almost entirely destroyed by 
 fire in 1G88. Tradition asserts that 
 the fire was not accidental ; and 
 there is a Suffolk saying applicable 
 to any special criminal, that he is 
 *' as big a rogue as burnt Bungay." 
 One very ancient house (see post), 
 nearly opposite St. Mary's Church, 
 escaped the flames. 
 
 The remains of the Castle are 
 now attached to the King's Head 
 Inn, and are entered from its yard. 
 It was the chief stronghold of the 
 Bigods; to whose ancestor, Kogcr 
 Bigod, the manor was granted soon 
 after the Conquest. With some brief 
 intervals, the Bigods (Earls of Suf- 
 folk) retained Bungay until their 
 powerful and turbulent race became 
 extinct in tlie 25th year of Edward 
 
 I. It was then granted, hke Fram- 
 lingham, to the king's son, Thomas 
 of Brotherton ; and passed by mar- 
 riage to the Uffords, Earls of Suffolk, 
 and. to the Howards. Its history is 
 therefore nearly identical with tliat 
 of Framlingham Castle (see Kte. 5). 
 The present owner is the Duke of 
 Norfolk. 
 
 Bungay Castle, then held by Hugh 
 Bigot, was taken by King Stephen 
 in 1140 (Annal. Waverl.). It was 
 one of the many baronial strong- 
 holds which were seized by Henry 
 
 II. soon after his accession. (The 
 castles of Hugh Bigot were seized 
 in 1157 according to R. de Monte). 
 Bigot was reinstated in 1163 ; but 
 in 1173 he was one of the principal 
 barons who, in England, joined the 
 sons of Henry II. in the rising 
 against their father (see Fram- 
 lingham, Rte. 5). The battle of 
 Foruham (see Rte, 3), iu which the 
 
 rebels were defeated, was fought 
 October IG, 1173; and in July of 
 the following year Henry II. advanced 
 to Syleham, (see the present rte.), 
 and there received the submission of 
 Bigot, whose castles were dismantled. 
 The site of Bungay was restored, 
 with the other possessions of the 
 Earldom, to the son of Hugh Bigot, 
 in 1189, by Richard I. It was to 
 the powerful Bigots that the saying 
 (not always true) was assigned — 
 
 " Were I in my castle of Bungay, 
 Upon the river of "Waveney, 
 I would ne care for the King of Cockney." 
 
 The castle was restored by Roger 
 Bigot in 1281 (temp. Edward I.), 
 when a licence for its crenellation 
 appears among the patent rolls. 
 This is the castle to which the 
 existing ruins belong. They consist 
 mainly of two low circular towers, 
 flanking walls of an octangular 
 ground plan, which enclose a keep 
 of 54 ft. square. The walls are very 
 thick and massive ; but all, except 
 the round towers, is so shattered 
 that a plan can only be made out 
 with difficulty. Below the mound 
 on which this part of the castle 
 stands, and toward the river, are 
 lofty embankments and mounds of 
 earth, large portions of which have 
 been removed of late years. They 
 formed, of course, the outer defences 
 of the mediaeval castle, but are 
 probably of much earlier date. Bun- 
 gay thus, like Eye (Rte. 7), Castle 
 Acre (NoKFOLK, Rte. 7), and many 
 others, may have been a mediaeval 
 fortress standing within British and 
 Roman entrenchments. 
 
 Of the Churches, St. Mary's has, 
 at the S.W. angle of the nave, a 
 noble Perp. tower of 4 stories, with 
 fine turretted buttresses. The W. 
 window of the nave and that of the 
 N. aisle are Perp. and good. The 
 ch. was greatly injured by the fire 
 of 1G88, and contains little within of 
 interest. It has been restored, St. 
 Mary's was the church of a priory 
 
Suffolk. Boute 9. -^Bungay : Churches — Mettingham. 181 
 
 founded for Benedictine nuns in IIGO, 
 by Roger de Glanville, and his wife, 
 whose first husbaod had been Roger 
 Bigot. The existing portion of the 
 ch. was probably parochial ; whilst 
 the chancel, now in ruins, was at- 
 tached to the priory. In August, 
 1577, a terrible thunderstorm oc- 
 curred at Bungay whilst the people 
 were in chinch ; during which, ac- 
 cording to a contemporary pamphlet, 
 "a black dog, or the divel in such a 
 likeness," ran down the body of St. 
 Mary's, "with great swiftness and 
 incredible haste," and wrung the 
 necks of two men. The " divel " 
 once apjieared in the somewhat in- 
 appropriate form of a Friar Minor 
 during a thunderstorm at Danbury 
 (see Essex, Rte. 2). Such "straunge 
 shapes" have, in our days, been ex- 
 orcised by lightning conductors. 
 
 The priory adjoined the ch., but 
 there are no remains. In the street 
 fronting the tower of St. Mary's is a 
 house of the IGthcenty., much altered, 
 but retaining windows with early 
 tracery, supported on richly carved 
 corbels, representing David and Go- 
 liath, angels supporting the papal 
 tiara, and other subjects. The house 
 has had one long room below, and 
 a stone staircase at the S.E. angle 
 leading to one above. It may have 
 been the guest house of the priory ; 
 but a merchant's mark occurring with- 
 out and within seems rather to in- 
 dicate that it was a private dwelling. 
 
 Holy Trinity Church has a round 
 tower, the lower part of which has 
 l)een regarded as earlier than the 
 Conquest. The upper part, with the 
 windows, is Perp. ; within there are 
 Dec. and Perp. portions, but of no 
 great interest. This ch. contained 
 a figure of Henry VI., which was 
 much venerated. In 1502 Agnes 
 Hamond bequeathed a " hedkii"ch of 
 hemp cloth to cover with gode King 
 Harry." 
 
 The printing establishment of 
 Messrs. Childs here, is oiie of the 
 
 most extensive out of London. Near 
 the town, and seen from the rly., is 
 the very large silk factory of the 
 Messrs. Grout. 
 
 [On the Norfolk side of the 
 Waveney, opposite Bungay, is Ditch- 
 ingltam Hall ( — Bedingfield, Esq.). 
 The ch. is Perp. The chs. of Tkwaite 
 and Hales, in Norfolk, between Bun- 
 gay and Loddon, both contain Norm, 
 portions worth notice. At Thwaite 
 is a fine late Norm, portal. The ch. 
 itself seems Norm., with additions. 
 Hales is a thatched ch., with apse 
 and round tower. E. E. windows 
 have been inserted. The S. door is 
 very rich Norm., with a remarkable 
 leaf ornament.] 
 
 [2 m. S.E. of Bungay is Met- 
 tingham, whose Castle, built and 
 embattled by John de Norwich in 
 the reign of Edward III., though 
 ruined, retains its gateway, and, 
 within its enclosure, portions of 
 the college established here in the 
 reign of Richard II. by the last of 
 the family of Norwich. The ruins 
 are extensive, and the lofty Ed- 
 wardian gate-tower is striking. The 
 family of Norwich, which was of 
 considerable importance, is supposed 
 to have descended from a younger 
 branch of the Bigots. Within the 
 area of the castle is the modern 
 house of its present proprietor, the 
 Rev. J. C. Satford. Mettingham 
 Church has a round tower, and a 
 Norm. N. portal. Remains of rich 
 stall work and of the screen exist. 
 
 4 m. E.of Mettingham is Barsham; 
 the birthplace, in 1671, of Lawrence 
 Eachard, author of a ' G eneral Ec- 
 clesiastical History ; ' and of other 
 historical works. In the pleasantly 
 situated rectory was born (1725) 
 Catherine Suckling, the mother of 
 Nelson, and her brother Mam-ice, the 
 early patron of his famous nephew. 
 They were the children of the rector, 
 Dr. Suckling, whose family ac(juire4 
 
182 
 
 Boute 9. — llketsliall. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 the manor and aclvowson of Barsham 
 in 1013. It does not appear wliether 
 Sir John Suckling, the poet, was 
 born hero ; but he possessed the 
 property for some time, and sold it to 
 his imcle. Barsham ch. is for the 
 most part early Dec.; but the very 
 curious E. end was rebuilt temp. 
 James I. The whole end is covered 
 witli a lozenge-shaped tracery of 
 stone, pierced for the window. There 
 is a round tower, and "in the chancel 
 a good brass for Sir Kobert Atte-Tye 
 (circ. 1380.) He wears a collar of SS, 
 and is a good and early example of 
 complete plate-armour. A local tra- 
 dition asserts that, according to his 
 last directions, four " dozens " of 
 wine were drunk over the knight's 
 grave before it was closed. (So the 
 v»'ill of James Cooke of Sporle, in 
 Norfolk (150G), orders his executors 
 to make a " drynkjTige for his soul " 
 iu the church of Sporle.)] 
 
 [The chs. of the 4 parishes of 
 Ilketshall, bordering the road between 
 Bungay and Halesworth, offer little 
 that calls for notice. With the ch, 
 of Mettingham, and the 2 chs. of 
 Bungay, they form what is locally 
 known as "the 7 parishes." In the 
 parish of Ilketshall St. John, f m. 
 E. of the ch., is a conical hill, 
 moated, and having a large en- 
 trenched area attached to it. It 
 stands near a line of Roman road 
 called the "Stone Street." The 
 South Elmhams, lying S.W. of Bun- 
 gay, are "the 9 parishes." Their 
 chs, have some Norm, portions, but 
 are unimportant. The ruins of the 
 Old Minster however, in the parish 
 of St. George's, S. Elmham, well 
 deserve notice. They stand in the 
 midst of a nearly square j)recinct 
 (probably a Roman camp), called 
 the Minster Yard, comprising about 
 3^- acres, and surrounded by a low 
 bank and shallow moat. The ruin 
 is 104 ft. long by 33 ft. broad. It 
 is divided into 3 parts (1) west, 2G ft. 
 long — with one opening for a "W. 
 
 door, and 2 openings for windows on 
 cither side. Two doorways so placed 
 that they cannot be seen through from 
 the W, door, admit to the (2) second 
 part, 38 ft. long with 3 windows on 
 either side. (3) The third division 
 is apsidal, 26J ft. long. The walls 
 of the 1st division are nearly perfect. 
 The S. side of the 2nd remains ; but 
 only the foundation of the 3rd can 
 be traced. They represent galilee 
 or outer porch, nave, and chancel. 
 The old church of Llantwit Major 
 in Glamorganshire has a similar 
 plan : and so has that of Gillingham 
 in Norfolk. The S. Elmham ruins 
 are unquestionably early, and may 
 date from before the Conquest. Mr, 
 Harrod is inclined to fix here, and 
 not at North Elmham in Norfolk, the 
 site of the old East Anglian see. 
 Bede says that about 671, while 
 Bisi, 4th bishop in succession from 
 Felix, was still alive, 2 bisliops, 
 JEcce and Bead wine, were appointed 
 and consecrated in his place, " from 
 which time that province has had 2 
 bishops," He names no places, and 
 Camden and Spelman fixed on North 
 Elmham. Mr. Harrod conjectures 
 that Felix first settled himself at 
 South Elmham ; and that the pecu- 
 liar name of " the Parishes " — the 
 " nine Parishes " — given to this 
 group, indicates a '' parochia " or 
 diocese " in partibus infidelium ; " 
 (but so the Ilketshalls are the seven 
 parishes). The title of Minster is 
 found nowhere else in the two 
 counties ; " there alone has the 
 Saxon title clung to a heap of ruins 
 for many hundreds of years." Felix, 
 he supposes, afterwards went to Dun- 
 wich, and when 2 bishops were ap- 
 pointed, one went to the old site 
 at Elmham, All this is doubtful, 
 though far from impossible. For 
 Mr. Harrod's paper see the Journal 
 of the Suffolk Archajol. Soc, vol. iv. 
 For North Elmham and its relics see 
 Norfolk, Rte. 8.] 
 
 If the tourist has proceeded as far 
 as Bungay by road, he will probably 
 
Suffolk. 
 
 Moute 9.*^Beccles : History ; Church. 
 
 183 
 
 take advantage of the rly. for the 
 rest of this rte. It is carried along 
 the Norfolk bank of the Waveney, 
 and there is little to notice until it 
 reaches 
 
 Beccles Stat. (A pretty view of 
 the town, witli its ch. and tower, is 
 seen rt., just before entering the 
 stat. The stat. is ^ m. from the 
 town. The large building seen 1. 
 after leaving the stat. is a malt- 
 house.) 
 
 Beccles (Pop. 4266. Inn : King's 
 Head) is one of the most pleasantly 
 situated towns in Suffolk, and is the 
 third in size in the county. It stands 
 on high broken ground, overlooking 
 the wide marshes of the Waveney, 
 once a navigable estuary, and has 
 much fine wood in its immediate 
 neighbourhood. The view from the 
 chm-chyard (worth seeking) will 
 show at once the position of the 
 town. 
 
 The manor of Beccles was granted 
 by King Edwy in 960 to the monas- 
 tery of Bury ; and the town owed its 
 ancient prosperity to its share in the 
 herring trade, which almost equalled 
 that of Yarmouth. Enormous shoals 
 of herrings frequented the estuary 
 of the Waveney, formerly much 
 broader than at present ; and a small 
 chapel, dedicated to St. Peter, the 
 "prince of fishermen," was built in 
 the old market-place at Beccles for 
 the convenience of the herring 
 traders. (This chapel was in the 
 low ground, near the bridge, which 
 is of the 15th centy.) In this old 
 market-place 3 persons were burnt 
 during the Marian persecution. 
 
 The chief point of interest in 
 Beccles is the Ch., from which it 
 has been proposed to derive the 
 name of the town {Beata Ecclesia). 
 But the ch. is never so named in 
 ancient documents, and the etymo- 
 logy is on other grounds more than 
 doubtful. The ch. is dedicated to 
 St. Michael, and is entirely Perp. 
 It seems to have been in com'se 
 
 of building for great part of the 
 15th centy., since the aisle windows 
 vary in their ti'acery, and some are 
 of late Dec. character. The bell- 
 tower stands detached, on the S. side 
 of the ch., near its E, end. It was 
 begun in 1500, and was never finished, 
 probably owing to the dissolution 
 of Bury Abbey. The finest featiues 
 of the ch. are the nave, of unusual 
 width, the view of which, from the 
 W. door, is very striking ; and the S. 
 porch, which is deserving of special 
 notice. It is in 2 stories, greatly en- 
 riched with niches, tabernacle work, 
 and pinnacles. The cornice imme- 
 diately over the portal arch bears 
 the crown and arrows of St. Ed- 
 mvmd's monastery, alternately with 
 shields. There are windows E. and 
 W. in both stories. The porch has 
 been richly groined, but this por- 
 tion, like the figures filling the many 
 niches, has undergone severe " dows- 
 ing " at the hands of zealous Puri- 
 tans. A projecting octagonal stair- 
 case leads to the upper chamber, from 
 which a window opened to the in- 
 terior of the ch. This room was an- 
 ciently used as a library and scrip- 
 torium. The whole porch was painted 
 and gilt, and some years since a 
 great quantity of lapis-Iazuli was 
 scraped from its niches. 
 
 The ch. was restored in 1858. The 
 good and simple nave roof is of that 
 date. The aisle roofs are ancient. 
 The small clerestory lights should 
 be noticed ; and an altar-tomb in 
 the chancel,with small figures under 
 canopies at its sides, said to be that 
 of John Kede, Mayor of Norwich 
 (d. 1502). 
 
 The decoration of the lowest set-off 
 in the tower buttresses deserves no- 
 tice. In this ch. Crabbe the poet 
 was married, 1783. At an earlier 
 period he had narrowly escaped 
 drowning while bathing in the Wa- 
 veney near this place. 
 
 The road to Bungay runs along 
 the top of the hill, and commands 
 some pretty views over the valley ; 
 
1.84 
 
 Boute Q.-^-^Beccles Fen. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 rt. of it is Rose Hall, the old manor 
 house of the Koos family (who 
 were settled here in the reign of 
 Hen. III.), dating about 1583. The 
 house is small, of red brick, and 
 surrounded by a moat. Each step 
 of the wide staircase is formed of a 
 solid block of oak. 
 
 Becdes Fen, on the N. side of the 
 rly. stat., is the common ground of 
 the town ; much of it has lately been 
 laid out with broad walks and 
 planted. Bordering the fen, rt., are 
 seen the woods of Worlingham Hall 
 (Kev. Sir Charles Clark). 
 
 [Across the Waveney, about 1 m. 
 from Beccles, on the Norfolk side, is 
 St. ' Mary's Ch., GUlingliam. It is 
 early Norm., and has a very peculiar 
 ground-jilan, with a western com- 
 partment or galilee, a tower, nave, 
 
 chancel, and apse. There is a mo- 
 dern S. transept. (Compare the 
 plan of the " Old Minster " at South 
 Elmham — the present Etc., ante.) 
 The early Norm, work is very 
 noticeable. The screen is Perp. In 
 Edward 1,'s reign Gillingham was 
 held by 2 persons — out of which 2 
 fees came 2 lordships with 2 churches 
 — Gillingham All Saints and Gil- 
 lingham St. Mary's. The tower of 
 Gillingham All Saints alone is 
 standing. The rest was pulled down 
 in 1748. Each ch. has its own 
 churchyard, divided only by a road.] 
 From Beccles the rly. may be 
 taken to Lowestoft (Rte. 5), or to 
 Yarmouth (Rte, 5). Noricirh (Nor- 
 folk, Ete. 1), or Ipswich (Suffolk, 
 Rte. 1), may also be reached by rail 
 from Beccles. 
 
( 185 ) 
 
 SECTION III. 
 
 NORFOLK. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 %• The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the placet are 
 
 described. 
 
 KOUTE PAGE 
 
 1. London to Noncich by Ips- 
 
 wich 185 
 
 2. Norwich to Yarmouth and 
 
 Lowestoft. The Broads, 
 Caister Castle . . . .221 
 
 3. Norwich to North Walsham. 
 
 Worsted, Mundesley, Brom- 
 holm 235 
 
 4. Norwich to Cromer by 
 
 Aylsham. Cawston, Salle, 
 Blickling, Felbrigge . . 210 
 
 5. Cromer to Wells by Holt* 
 
 Binham, Holkham, Burn- 
 ham Thorpe .... 251 
 
 6. Norwich to East Dereliam 
 
 by Wymondliam. Ketter- 
 ingliam, Kimberley, Hing- 
 ham, Elsing .... 262 
 
 7. East Dereham to King's 
 
 Lynn by Swaffham . Castle 
 
 EOUTB PAGE 
 
 Acre, Oxburgh, Narford, 
 Houghton 271 
 
 8. East Dereham to Wells by 
 
 Falcenliam and Walsing- 
 ham. Rainham, East Bars- 
 ham 285 
 
 9. King's Lynn to Wells by 
 
 Hunstanton. Castle Rising, 
 Sandringham, Snettisham, 
 Brancaster 293 
 
 10. Lynn to Wisbeach. The 
 
 Marshland, Terrington, 
 Tilney, Walpole, Sutton 
 Bridge 
 
 11. Lynn to Ely by Doianham 
 
 Marltet. Eau Brink Cut 
 
 12. Norwich to Ely by Attle- 
 
 horough and Thefford. 
 BuckenJiam, Northwold, 
 Mildenhall 307 
 
 300 
 
 305 
 
 EOUTE 1. 
 
 LONDON TO NORWICH BY IPSWICH. 
 
 {Great Eastern Raihoay.) 
 
 For the line from London to Diss 
 (where the rly. enters Norfolk), see 
 Essex, Kte. 2 ; and Suffojjj, Rtes. 1 
 and 7. 
 
 After traversing Thrandeston Bog, 
 the rly. crosses the river Waveney, 
 which divides Suffolk fi'om Norfolk, 
 and reaches 
 
 91:J m. from London, Diss Stat, on 
 high ground; 1., 1 m. W., lies the 
 town of Diss, the outskirts of which 
 extend nearly up to the station {Inn: 
 King's Head). Pop. of parish, 3637. 
 St. Mary's Ch. (of fluit and stone with 
 panelled buttresses) is Dec, (piers and 
 
186 
 
 jRoiite l.'^Biss^^WinfartMng. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 arches) and Pcrp. (windows, clere- 
 story, and roof), and is wortli a visit. 
 It was probably built l)y tlio Fitz- 
 walters, who were lords of tlio manor 
 from an early period (circ. 1180) until 
 1432, and were succeeded by the 
 Eatclitis, Earls of Sussex. The 
 chancel was enlarged in 1858, when 
 the ch. was restored at the cost of 
 the late and the present rectors. It 
 is in admirable order, and contains 
 some modern stained glass of merit. 
 There is a fine (modern) peal of bells. 
 In the vestry hangs a portrait of the 
 Rev. W. Manning, rector of Diss for 
 46 years (d. 1857). The portrait was 
 taken at the express desire, and at 
 the cost, of his parishioners. 
 
 The ch.-yard is shaded by fine lime 
 trees. 
 
 It is not quite certain whether 
 Ealph de Diceto, Dean of St. 
 Paul's, in the reign of Hen. II., 
 and author of a valuable contem- 
 porary chronicle (printed in Twys- 
 den's ' X. Script.', and in Gale and 
 Fulman, ' Eer. Anglic. Scriptores,') 
 was named from this place. Diss 
 was the birthplace, as well as the 
 rectory, of John Skelton, the pre- 
 decessor of Eabelais, and the satirical 
 rhymester against Wolsey. The date 
 of his birth is unknown. He was 
 suspended by Nix, Bp. of Norwich ; 
 and for his attacks on the great 
 Cardinal was compelled to take sanc- 
 tuary at Westminster, where he died 
 in 1529, (Skelton's works, with a 
 life, were edited by Mr. Dyce in 
 1843.) Diss was formerly noted for 
 its manufactures of hempen cloth, 
 now quite gone ; at present brushes 
 and cocoa-matting are manufactured 
 here to some extent. It has a weekly 
 market for corn, and a commodious 
 Corn Hall was erected in 1 854 at the 
 sole expense of Thos. Lombe Taylor, 
 Esq. Some antiquities, chiefly me- 
 diaBval, are preserved at the rectory. 
 
 A little S. of the town, which rises 
 steeply from its bank, is a large powtZ, 
 or " mere," of more than 5 acres area. 
 It is natural, with an outlet to the 
 
 Waveney, and perhaps gave name to 
 the town (dise, O. Eng., has been said 
 to signify a pond, but ?). It has been 
 said to contain a rare fish, called 
 cliasers (China carp) ; and certainly 
 abounds in eels. (With a reference 
 to this pond. Diss farthings had a 
 "shield wavy" for device.) The 
 sloping banks are prettily lined with 
 gardens ; and on its S. side is a plea- 
 sant public walk with good trees. 
 
 Near Diss is Boy don Hall (G. E. 
 Frere, Esq., elder brother of Sir 
 Bartle Frere, the representative of 
 that very ancient Norfolk family. 
 Eedgrave Hall (see Suffolk, Ete. 9) 
 is 6 m. from Diss Stat. In the little 
 Ch. of Frenze, 2 m, N.W. of Diss, are 
 many brasses of the Blennerhassets 
 {the earliest 1475), worth notice. 
 
 5 m. N.W. of Diss is Fersfield, of 
 which parish Blomefield, the historian 
 of Norfolk, was rector. He was born 
 here in 1705, the eldest son of his 
 father, whose family had long been 
 settled at Fersfield. In 1729 he 
 became rector, and his History was 
 entirely written here. He is buried 
 in the chancel of Fersfield Ch. The 
 old rectory in which he lived is now 
 " humbly tenanted." 
 
 97 m. Burston Stat. 
 
 [2 m. rt. is DicklehorougJi. In the 
 Ch. (Dec. and Perp.) are an elaborate 
 monument to Dame Frances Play ters, 
 d. 1659, widow of Sir W. Playters of 
 Sotterley, in Suffolk, and fragments 
 of a fine screen. 
 
 4 m. 1. is Winfarthing, the Ch. of 
 which was much renowned for the 
 possession of " a certeyn swerd, called 
 the Good Swerd of Winfarthyng." 
 A chapel at the end of the S. aisle 
 was devoted to tliis sword, which 
 " was visited far and near," especially 
 for the discovery of " things that were 
 lost," as of stolen or strayed horses. 
 It was also efficacious in delivering 
 wives from husbands who were dis- 
 tasteful to them, if they " would set 
 a candle before that . swerd every 
 Sunday for the space of a whole 
 year." Becon, in his ' Reliques of 
 
KORFOLK. 
 
 Boute l.'^AsliwelltJiorpe Hall. 
 
 187 
 
 Eome,' asserts that ho had "many 
 times heard, when a child," that the 
 sword had belonged to a certain 
 thief who took sanctuary in the 
 churchyard, and afterwards escaped, 
 leaving his sword behind, which in 
 time came to be regarded as a relic 
 of powerful virtue. Can it have 
 been shown as the sword of the 
 " Good Thief," to whom chapels were 
 occasionally consecrated ? The ''Old 
 Oak" in this parish is one of the 
 largest in England, measuring 70 ft. 
 round the roots, and 40 ft. in the 
 middle of its main trunk. The tree 
 still stands near the Lodge Farm, 
 but has only a slender life remaining 
 
 In 1553, the Lords of the Council 
 wrote to the Earl of Sussex and Sir 
 Eichard Southwell directing the 
 punishment of 2 persons, who being 
 appointed to " watch a lanner's 
 nest," in the disparked park of the 
 " Lady Mary's Grace " at Winfar- 
 thing, confessed that they had stolen 
 3 young hawks from the said nest, 
 and would not say for whom. 
 Nearly a month later, the Lords 
 wrote again. The thieves were still 
 obstinate ; and it was proposed to 
 examine them " by tortoui's or other- 
 wise." Such was the value of hawks 
 in those days. In the 34th Edw. 
 III. it was made felony to steal one, 
 and this statute was still in force.] 
 
 100 m. Tivetshall Stat. (Here the 
 branch line from Beccles by Bungay 
 joins the main rly.) The 2 churches 
 of Tivetshall 1., and the 2 churches 
 of Pulham rt., contain little of 
 interest. Dowsing the destructive 
 is said, by tradition of the place, to 
 have been born and to have lived at 
 Pulham St. Mary. 
 
 103 m. Forncett Stat, is named from 
 the village of Forncett St. Peter, 
 about J m. on 1. 
 
 [rt. 3 m. is Stratton St. Mary's. 
 The ch. has a round tower. The 
 body of the ch. was rebuilt by Sir 
 Eoger de Burgh, about 1330. In the 
 parish is Stratton House (E, Bur- 
 loughes, Es(j.). 
 
 Between Forncett and the next 
 station, Tasburgh is passed, rt. It 
 may best be visited from Flordon 
 Stat., whence it is distant 2^ m. 
 Tasburgh stands on an intrenched 
 hill above the Tas or Taes, on the 
 probable site of the Eoman "Ad 
 Tavum." The camp is quadrangular, 
 and includes about 24 acres ; within 
 it stands the Ch., which has a round 
 tower, of Early Norman character. It 
 had 2 tiers of recessed arches, but in 
 rebuilding the summit, the arches of 
 the upper tier have been cut off. The 
 arch into the nave is rude and quite 
 of Eoman aspect. It is filled uj) 
 with an internal early pointed arch. — 
 Woodicard. 
 
 2 m. 1. of Tasburgh is Boyland 
 Hall (W. F. Irby, Esq.), a large 
 Elizabethan house, built 1571, and 
 repaired by Hon. Admiral Irby in 
 1801. The par/s/i Ch.,3Iorningt]iorpe, 
 has a round tower. Fritton Ch., close 
 to Boyland Hall, has a round tower 
 of Trans. Norm, date, and peculiar, 
 inasmuch as the E. face of the tower 
 preserves its convexity to the ground, 
 and within the nave. The apse is 
 pure Norm. The upper part of the 
 tower has been rebuilt, and the whole 
 cased with cut flint.] 
 
 The country from Tivetshall is 
 much wooded, but flat. It is still 
 wooded, but becomes somewhat more 
 broken, as we approach 
 
 106 m. Flordon Stat. * 
 
 [1. 4 m. is Ashivellthorpe Hall (Lord 
 Berners), occupied by Sir Archdale 
 Wilson, Bart., a brick Elizabethan 
 house, partly modernised, and the 
 ancient inheritance of the Thorpe, 
 Bourchier, Knyvett, and Berners 
 families. In the Ch. is an altar-tomb 
 to Sir Edward Thorpe and his wife. 
 Sir Thos. Knyvett of Ashwellthorpe, 
 who died in 1616, was "much beloved 
 for his hospitality and good nature." 
 In his time, according to a ballad (to 
 be found at length in Blomfield), a 
 marvel occurred in the hall of Ash- 
 wellthorpe ; the tradition of which has 
 not quite passed away. A stranger 
 
188 
 
 Boute l.'-'^FramUng'ham—^Caister. Sect. III. 
 
 presented himself at Christmas time, 
 and after showing the company an 
 acorn, sot it down in the middle of 
 the hall. Immediately an oak tree 
 sprang np, which soon filled the hall 
 with its branches. It bore acorns, 
 which fell ; and at last two " stout 
 and strong " men came in, and cut it 
 down. But no one could move the 
 tree, until a brace of goslings ap- 
 peared, and drew it away. No trace 
 of it was left, — not even a chip from 
 the felling. The feat resembles the 
 recorded doings of the " Tregetour," 
 in Chaucer ; and is perhaps to be ex- 
 plained by the glamour of a magic 
 lanthorn. 
 
 3 m. rt. is Shottesham ParJc (R. Fel- 
 lowes, Esq.). This is a handsome 
 modern house, built upon the site of 
 a seat of the D'Oyley family.] 
 
 109J m. Sivainsthorpe Stat. The 
 village ch. has a round tower, with 
 a hexagonal upper story ; and 2 m. 
 rt. Great Poringland (pronounced 
 Por'land) ch. has a similar tower. 
 
 [Poringland is on the old London 
 road, 5 m. from Norwich. Off this 
 road (E.) about IJ m. from Poring- 
 land are the little churches of Fram- 
 lingham Pigot and Framlingham 
 Earl ; both curious and early. That 
 of Framlingliam Pigot is specially 
 remarkable. It is all of one period, 
 and may very well date from before 
 the Conquest. The windows were 
 origftially double-splayed, but E.E. 
 and modern lights have been in- 
 serted. All the quoins are of Eoman- 
 shaped tiles. The chancel arch is 
 very rude, formed of rubble and 
 flints ; and either the abacus and 
 jambs have been removed, or the 
 arch was left as now, when it as- 
 sumes a rude trefoil shape. The 
 Ch. of Framlingham Earl has the 
 same character ; but there is an ela- 
 borate late Norm, chancel arch, and 
 N. and S. doors higldy ornamented. 
 Howe Ch., 6 m. from Norwich, on 
 the same road, also very small, has a 
 round tower about 40 ft. high, built 
 of flint and rubble, mixed with 
 
 Eoman bricks. About 18 ft. from 
 the ground are 3 windows — S., W. and 
 N. — with deep external and internal 
 splays. A very plain circular arch 
 opens to the nave. If any of these 
 round towers are pre-Norman, this 
 of Howe may fairly advance a claim 
 to be so considered.] 
 
 [About 1 J m. N.E. of Swainsthorpe, 
 on the other side of the Taus, lies 
 Caister St. Edmund's, 3 m. S. of Nor- 
 wich, with a ch. standing within the 
 entrenchments of a Eoman camp or 
 fortress. Some have supposed it to 
 be the true "Venta Icenorum," and 
 according to an old rhyme — 
 
 " Caister was a city when Norwich was none, 
 And Norwich was built of Caister stone." 
 
 On the other hand, it is as confidently 
 asserted that Norwich was Venta, 
 situated on the N. bank of the 
 estuary into which the Wensum, 
 Yare, and Taes then fell, and that 
 Caister was only a Castrum Stativum 
 to be occupied by a part of the 
 Eoman army, on its S. bank— an out- 
 post to control a hostile population — 
 "such a fort as the Romans usually 
 erected after conquest for the use 
 of their garrison and colony" (see 
 Norivich, post, for some further re- 
 marks on this question). The ditch 
 and rampart, still very perfect, with 
 fragments of an inner wall of flint 
 and tile, forming 3 sides of a parallelo- 
 gram (the 4:th side towards the Taes 
 being open) exist, and enclose a space 
 of about 30 acres, measuring 1120 ft 
 from N. to S., and 1349 from E. to 
 W. Many Eoman remains have been 
 found here. 
 
 Large trees are growing in the 
 trench and on the sides of tlie fosse ; 
 and the scene is ratlier pretty. 
 
 The Ch. of St. Edmund, standing 
 within the enclosure, near the S.E. 
 corner, is chiefly built of materials 
 taken from the walls. The chancel 
 has E. Eng. lancet windows. The 
 nave is Perp. The font is fine Perp., 
 sculptured with emblems of the 
 Evangelists, and of the Passion, and 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boute i. — Norioich : Situation, 
 
 180 
 
 with coats of arms ; but there seems ] 
 no reason for asscrtinj^, as Blometield 
 does, that it was given to the eh. by 
 Richard de Castre, boru here in the 
 latter part of the 14th centy., and 
 afterwards vicar of St, Stephen's in 
 Norwich. He is said to have been 
 •• a constant preacher of God's word 
 in Enghsb," was a great favourer 
 of Wickliifs doctrine, and pil- 
 grimages were made to the tomb 
 in St. Stephen's Ch. of the " good 
 Viker," as he was called. 
 
 Bexley Hall, about 2 m. E. of 
 Caister, on the road between Nor- 
 wich and Bungay, was the old seat 
 of the Wardes, ancestors of the first 
 Baron Warde, so created by Charles 
 I. In Bexley Ch. is the monu- 
 ment of Edward Warde of Bex- 
 ley, d. 1583. His sixth son, Wil- 
 liam Warde, became a goldsmith 
 in London; as was then not un- 
 usual with younger sons of good 
 family. He made a great fortune, 
 foimded on the purchase from a 
 sailor of a number of rough dia- 
 monds ; and when Lord Dudley 
 applied to him as a banker (which 
 nearly all goldsmiths then were) for 
 the advance of a large sum, " Mr. 
 Warde told him he miglit be supplied 
 better and more honourably than by 
 borrowing." The "better" method 
 was a marriage between Warde's only 
 son, Humble Ward, and Lord Dudley's 
 granddaughter and heiress. This 
 was arranged. The lady became 
 Baroness Dudley ; and her husband, 
 first knighted at Oxford in 1643, was 
 afterwards created Baron Warde. 
 Their descendants imite the titles.] 
 
 A viaduct of 6 arches carries our 
 rly. over the river Yare, and over the 
 Cambridge, London, and Norwich 
 Kly. i see Ete. 6), in order to reach 
 
 113^ m. Norioich. (The terminiis of 
 the rly. from Ipswich and London is 
 at the Victoria Stat., on the rt. bank 
 of the Weusum. From the Thorpe 
 Stat., on the other side of the river, 
 run the lines to Yarmouth, and to 
 London via Cambridge. Hotels: 
 
 Eoyal, in the Market-place ; Nor- 
 folk, in St. Giles' s-street ; both cen- 
 tral, but hardly worthy of so impor- 
 tant a city. A pleasanter resting-place 
 is the " Maid's Head," in Eye Bridge 
 Street, opposite the ch. of SS. Simon 
 and Jude. This is near the Cathe- 
 dral, old-fashioned, and very com- 
 fortable. Coaches run daily during 
 the summer to Cromer (see Rte. 4), 
 and to N. Walsham (Rte. 3). 
 
 The population of the borough of 
 Norwich in 1861 was 74,440. The an- 
 cient city stood entirely onthert. bank 
 of the Wensum, occupying the high 
 ground on which the Castle stands, 
 the hill whicli stretches away from it 
 N.W., and the low land nearer the 
 river, occupied by the Cathedral and 
 the buildings attached to it. This 
 old city was surrounded by strong 
 walls. The more modern Norwich 
 has extended herself on all sides ; 
 and the Wensum, which here makes 
 a great bend in its course, now tra- 
 verses the city. Few places in Eng- 
 land are more puzzling to a stranger. 
 There is no main street, and although 
 the market-place is a chief centre, 
 the streets which wind toward it are 
 so narrow and intricate that the 
 topography of the city is by no means 
 understood at a glance. Even the 
 view from the Castle mound, or that 
 from the Cathedral tower, will not 
 greatly assist the visitor, who should 
 well study the map before venturing 
 into the labyrinth of streets, irre- 
 gularly pitched with large pebbles, 
 and not pleasant for w^alking. But 
 the archsGologist will not regret the 
 time which he may give to Norwich. 
 Besides tlie Cathedral and the Castle, 
 the city is rich in old buildings and 
 in chs. of interest ; and as the his- 
 torical centre of East Anglia, its asso- 
 ciations and recollections are suffi- 
 cient to occupy for many a long day 
 the most indefatigable of Oldbucks. 
 
 Whether Norwich was really the 
 Venta Icenorum of the Romans is a 
 matter " ad hue sub judice," and per- 
 haps will never be decided with cer- 
 
i90 
 
 Boiite 1. — Nonvich : History. 
 
 Sect. Hi. 
 
 tainty. It is remarkable that no 
 traces of Homan walls, or indeed of 
 Eoman occupation, have been found 
 here ; whilst on the other hand, the 
 great mound and dykes of the 
 Castle, certauily older than the Eo- 
 man period, indicate a very impor- 
 tant stronghold of the Iceni, and 
 just such a position as the Romans, 
 wherever they could ( as at Exeter, for 
 example) seized at once, and fortified 
 in their own fashion. A very pro- 
 bable explanation is that suggested 
 by Mr. Harrod (see^os^ — the Castle), 
 who supposes that the legions could 
 not obtain possession of the Norwich 
 stronghold until the rest of the district 
 was so completely subdued that walls 
 were not necessary. Meanwhile they 
 had constructed their camp at Cais- 
 ter (see ante). It is at least cer- 
 tain that Venta Icenorum is to be 
 sought cither at Norwich or at 
 Caister. 
 
 Saxons and Danes soon found 
 their way up the Yare and the Wen- 
 sum; and Norwich (the name is 
 probably North wic = the North har- 
 bour, as Ipswich is the ivic or har- 
 bour at the mouth of the Gip'p'mg) 
 rapidly became an important East 
 Anglian " burgh." It was plun- 
 dered and burnt by the Danes under 
 Swend (Sweyne) liimself in 1003, 
 when Thetford was also attacked (see 
 Ete. 12), marking these "burghs" 
 as the most important in the district. 
 After the Conquest a castle was built 
 here, and in 1094 Bp. Herbert Lo- 
 singa removed the episcopal see of 
 East Anglia from Tlietford, where it 
 had been temporarily placed, to 
 Norwich, where it has ever since re- 
 mained. Much of the subsequent 
 history of the city is thus connected 
 with the Cathedi'al and the Benedic- 
 tine monastery attached to it. Char- 
 ters were granted to Norwich by 
 Henry II. and by many succeeding 
 kings down to James II. The city 
 has returned 2 " burgesses " to Par- 
 liament since the 25th Edward I. 
 Under Edward III. it was made the 
 
 " staple" of wool and woollen cloth 
 for Norfolk and Suffolk, a trade 
 which certainly existed here at a 
 very early period, and which rapidly 
 became more important after the set- 
 tlement ofFlemingsat Worstead (see 
 Ete. 3) in the reign of Henry I. 
 From whatever causes — whether from 
 the pestilence of 1348, known as the 
 " black death" (of which itMs recorded 
 that 57,374 persons, ''besides reli- 
 gious and beggars," died in Norwich 
 alone) which produced a great scarcity 
 of labour, and a consequent demand 
 for higher wages, giving occasion for 
 the famous " Statute of Labourers ;" 
 whether from the decline of manu- 
 factures ; or from the exclusiveness 
 of the great trade guilds, which bene- 
 fited the burgesses rather than the 
 mass of the commons, Norfolk, like 
 the rest of the country, took her full 
 share in the rebellion of 1381, spe- 
 cially signalised by the deeds of Wat 
 Tyler. Norwich was then attacked 
 by a great body of men, chiefly from 
 Tlietford, Lynn, and Yarmouth, 
 under John the " Littester," or 
 " dyer," who was afterwards defeated 
 and hanged by Bp. Spenser at North 
 Walsham (see Ete. 3, and Introd.) 
 
 They came and " rested before 
 Norwich," probably on Mousehold 
 Heath, like Kett in 1549. The 
 governor of Norv/ich was Sir Eobert 
 de Salle, " no gentleman born," says 
 Froissart, and " of his body one of 
 the biggest knights in all England." 
 On the insistance of the rebels. Sir 
 Eobert went forth " to speak with 
 them in the field," alone, and on 
 horseback. He would not consent to 
 their demands, and they at last set on 
 him " to slay him." Tlien the knight 
 " let his horse go, and drue out a 
 good swerde, and began to scrimyshe 
 with them, and made a great place 
 about him, that it was pleasure to 
 behold hym." But there were so 
 many against him "that if he had 
 been of yron or stele, he must nedes 
 have been slayne. But yet or he 
 dyed, he sleu xii out of hande, be- 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 BoiUe 1. "^Norwich : History. 
 
 191 
 
 sydc tlicm that lie Imrte. This was 
 the ciidc of Syr Eobert Salle, which 
 •Was great domage. For which dede 
 afterwarde all the Knights and 
 Squyers of England were angry, and 
 sore displeased whan they herde 
 thereof." — Lord Serners' ' Froissart.' 
 The citizens, deiDrived of their cap- 
 tain, were much disturbed ; and the 
 commons, riding through the country, 
 seized many knights and gentlemen, 
 some of whom, dissembling for the 
 time, "came into credit" with Lit- 
 tester, " taking assay of his meats 
 and drinks," and doing him other 
 services. Sir Stephen de Hales, " be- 
 cause he was a comely knight," was 
 appointed his carver. Much money 
 was paid to the rebels by the city, 
 which nevertheless suifered greatly 
 from plunder and riot. Meanwhile 
 Spenser, the young Bp. of Norwich, 
 who was then at Burleigh, near Stam- 
 ford, marched in all haste to Norwich, 
 encountered certain of the rebels on 
 his way, whom he ' ' gave good ac- 
 count of," dispersed them from before 
 Norwich, and pursued them to North 
 Walsham (see Rte. 3), where Littes- 
 ter was taken. He was hanged and 
 quartered, one portion of his body 
 being set up on his own house in 
 Norwich. 
 
 In 1549 came Rett's rebellion. 
 The insurgents established them- 
 selves on Mousehold Heath, and 
 Norwich was twice taken (see the 
 story at length under Mousehold, 
 post). 
 
 Elizabeth visited " her most duti- 
 ful city" of Norwich in 1578, and 
 underwent such a succession of ova- 
 tions, shows, devices, and " sotelties " 
 as might well have stricken terror to 
 the heart of any one but the " Queen 
 of lion port." She was welcomed by 
 " Gurgunt, King of England, which 
 built the Castle of Norwich called 
 Blaunche flower," and received a 
 message from the gods, at the liands 
 of Mercury, in the Green Yard ad- 
 joining the Cathedral. There were 
 sundry ' rare and delicate bankets,' 
 
 and her Majesty, departing, "called to 
 Master Mayor, and said : ' I have 
 laid up in my breast such good will 
 as I shall never forget Norwich ; ' 
 and proceeding forward did shake 
 her riding rod, and say : ' Fare- 
 well, Norwich ! ' with the water 
 standing in her eyes." 
 
 During the Civil War, Norwich 
 seems to have played no very impor- 
 tant part, and the most noticeable 
 event was the plunder of the palace 
 and the sacking of the Cathedral ; 
 events dwelt on by the unfortunate 
 Bp. Hall in his ' Hard Measure.' Of 
 later history there is little to record. 
 Charles II. visited Norwich, and was 
 entertained in most stately fasliion 
 by Lord Henry Howard, then owner 
 of the palace of the Dukes of Nor- 
 folk (see i^ost, the Museum), of which 
 the city was not a little proud, but 
 which Evelyn describes as " an old 
 wretched building, and that part 
 of it newly built of brick very 
 ill understood." — Memoirs, i. To 
 make amends, Evelyn (who tra- 
 velled hither from Euston in my 
 Lord of Howard's flying coach with 
 6 horses) pronounces Norwich itself 
 " one of the largest, and certainly, 
 after London, one of the noblest 
 cities of England; for its vene- 
 rable cathedrall, number of stately 
 churches, cleanesse of the streets, 
 and buildings of flints so exquisitely 
 headed and squared, as I was much 
 
 astonished at The suburbs 
 
 are large, the prospects sweete, 
 with other amenities, not omitting 
 the flower gardens in which all the 
 inhabitants excel." 
 
 The picture of Norwich about this 
 time (in 1685) has been thus drawn 
 by Lord Macaulay : — 
 
 "Norwich was the capital of a 
 large and fruitful province. It was 
 the residence of a bishop and of a 
 chapter. It was the chief seat of 
 the chief manufacture of the realm. 
 Some men distinguished by learning 
 and science had recently dwelt 
 there ; and no place in the kingdom, 
 
192 
 
 Route 1. — Norwich : former Dignity. Sect. III. 
 
 except tlic capital and the Universi- 
 ties, had more attractions for the 
 cnrious. The library, the museum, 
 the aviary, and the botanical garden 
 of Sir Thomas Brown were thought 
 by Fellows of the Royal Society 
 well worthy of a long pilgrimage. 
 Norwicli had also a Court in minia- 
 tm*e. In the heart of the city stood 
 an old palace of the Dukes of Nor- 
 folk, said to be the largest town- 
 house in the kingdom, out of London. 
 In this mansion, to which were 
 annexed a tennis-court, a bowling- 
 green, and a wilderness stretching 
 along the banks of the Wensum, the 
 noble family of Howard frequently 
 resided, and kept a state resembling 
 that of petty sovereigns. Drink was 
 served to guests in goblets of pure 
 gold. The very tongs and shovels 
 were of silver. Pictures by Italian 
 masters adorned the walls. The 
 cabinets were filled with a fine col- 
 lection of gems, pui'chased by that 
 Earl of Arundel whose marbles are 
 now among the ornaments of Oxford. 
 Here, in the year 1671, Charles and 
 his Court were sumptuously enter- 
 tained. Here, too, all comers were 
 annually welcomed from Christmas 
 to Twelfth-night. Ale flowed in 
 oceans for the populace. Three 
 coaches, one of which liad been built 
 at a cost of oOOL to contain fom-teen 
 persons, were sent every afternoon 
 round the city to bring ladies to the 
 festivities ; and the dances were 
 always followed by a luxurious ban- 
 quet. When the Duke of Norfolk 
 came to Norwich he was greeted like 
 a king retiu-ning to his capital. The 
 bells of the cathedral and of St. Peter 
 Mancroft were rung ; the guns of the 
 castle were fired ; and the mayor and 
 aldermen waited on their illustrious 
 fellow citizen with complimentary 
 addresses. In the year 1693, the 
 population of Norwich was found, 
 by actual enumeration, to be between 
 28,000 and 29,000 souls."— ffisf. 
 Eng., vol. i., ch. 3. 
 The gradual withdrawal of the 
 
 silk and woollen trade from Norfolk 
 to the north of England has, during 
 the present centy., very much less- 
 ened the commercial importance of 
 Norwich (see iManufactures, post) ; 
 and good roads and railways, giving 
 easy access to the metropolis, have 
 destroyed (as in other parts of Eng- 
 land) its foi-mer position as the 
 social capital of East Anglia. But 
 it is still by far the largest and 
 wealthiest city of the district. 
 
 There are 2 chief centres in Nor- 
 wich — the Market Place for the 
 city, and the Cathedral with its pre- 
 cincts. The Norwich Market is 
 somewhat famous ; and Cobbett pro- 
 nounced it the best, neatest, and 
 most attractive he had ever seen. It 
 is graced (however appropriately) by 
 a statue of the Duke of Wellington. 
 (This market-place, which was the 
 " magna crofta castelli " — the great 
 field or croft of the castle — was made 
 the head-quarters of the Earl of 
 Warwick's troops during Kett's re- 
 bellion (1519, see ^jios^). It after- 
 wards took 2 men 21 days, and another 
 man 12 days " in cleansing and load- 
 ing of carts, for 248 loads were carried 
 away.") 
 
 Adjoining the Market Place, the 
 places to be visited are — the Castle, 
 the Guildhall, St. Andrew's Hall, the 
 Museum, the Chs. of St. Feter Man- 
 crojt and >S'^. Andrew, and one or two 
 more, if time permit. The Cathe- 
 dral precincts form a very distinct 
 quarter. Besides the great ch. it- 
 self, the Grammar School is situated 
 here. 
 
 The earliest importance of Nor- 
 wich (or rather of the site) is no 
 doubt connected with the Castle, 
 which may therefore be first visited. 
 The great Norm, keep, towering on 
 its lofty mound, is one of the chief 
 landmarks of the city. It occupies 
 the highest point of a hill that, rising 
 from the W. side of the Wensum, 
 extends by Bracondale and along 
 Ber-street to the site of the Castle. 
 
Norfolk'. 
 
 Route 1. — NorioicJi: Castle. 
 
 193 
 
 This highest point has probably been 
 scarped, and brought to its present 
 form by art. The mound, com- 
 manding a noble view, and the plat- 
 form on which the keep stands, are 
 accessible at all times. From it a 
 stranger will obtain some general 
 idea of the city (most intricate in its 
 plan), which lies spread at his feet. 
 The keejj itself serves as tlie county 
 gaol, — as it has served since the 
 reign of Henry III., — and the interior 
 can only be seen by a magistrate's 
 order. 
 
 Mr. Harrod (' Castles and Convents 
 of Norfolk') has shown that the 
 plan of the earthworks, formerly (and 
 still partly) surrounding the keep, 
 given by Blomelield, and since gene- 
 rally adopted, is altogether inac- 
 curate. The true plan, no doubt, 
 resembled that of the great eartli- 
 works at Castle Rising 'Rte. 9), 
 Castle Acre (Rte. 7 ), and elsewhere 
 in Norfolk and SuiFolk, and dis- 
 played a great central mound en- 
 circled by a deep fosse, with 2 works 
 attached to it, one of irregular form, 
 embracing what is now called the 
 Castle Meadow, on the E. side of the 
 keep mound ; the other, a half oval, 
 or horseshoe, covering part of what 
 is now the Cattle Market. These 
 outer enclosures can no longer be 
 traced, but of their former existence 
 there can be no doubt ; and as little 
 that the whole of these earthworks 
 were of British origin, and formed a 
 chief stronghold of the Iceni. Mr. 
 Harrod suggests that the Roman 
 camp at Caister was constructed be- 
 fore the legions could obtain posses- 
 sion of this British fortress ; and that, 
 although Norwich may have been 
 the true Venta Icenorum, the want of 
 Roman fortifications here is owing to 
 this fact, since by the time they did 
 possess themselves of the city, the 
 British power was completely broken 
 up, and there was no necessity for 
 fortresses. 
 
 We may therefore regard the Castle 
 mound, and the fosse which surrounds 
 
 [Essex, 4-c.'] 
 
 it, as relics of far-off Icenian days, 
 before the first appearance of the 
 legionaries in the district. The 
 great keep, and the other scanty 
 fragments of the mediseval castle, are 
 entirely Norm. These fragments 
 are the arch of the bridge by which 
 the fosse is crossed, and the bases of 
 2 towers, one on each side the top 
 of the bridge. The bridge has been 
 refaced with flints, and the great 
 keep has been "restored" so effec- 
 tually that it has lost (on the out- 
 side) all appearance of real antiquity. 
 It is still, however, of much interest, 
 without and within. The tower is 
 nearly square (92 ft. by 96 ft., about 
 76 ft. liigh), and its size, as a Norm, 
 keep, is only exceeded in England 
 by the keep at Cjlchester (168 ft. by 
 126 ft. ; see Essex, Rte. 2), which, 
 however, is on a different plan, and 
 cannot fairly be compared. It was 
 built of Barnack stone, faced with 
 Caen (of late years it has been 
 entirely refaced). The exterior walls, 
 between the buttresses, are covered 
 with a series of arcades and reticu- 
 lated work, well relieving the broad, 
 and otherwise monotonous, surface. 
 
 Until the late restoration the keep 
 was a shell. This shell now sur- 
 rounds an oiDcn yard, filled by de- 
 tached modern buildings. The en- 
 trance is by a tower on the eastern 
 side (as at Rising, and in other 
 Norm, keeps), " restored " by Wil- 
 kins (and by him called BlgocVs 
 Tower, the name is not older), and 
 containing, on its upper floor, the 
 grand entrance to the great tower. 
 This is " a very remarkable specimen 
 of early Norman. One large arch 
 spanning the space encloses a large 
 elaborately ornamented doorway, and 
 a smaller one to the right of it." — 
 Harrod. The capitals are enriched 
 with sculpture relating to the chase, 
 hunteis with horns, dogs attacking 
 wild animals, etc. " The interior of 
 the great tower must, from what re- 
 mains to indicate its arrangements, 
 have been extremely like the great 
 
194 
 
 Boute 1. — Norioich: Castle. 
 
 Sect. m. 
 
 tower at Rising, tliougli on a larger 
 scale. The dungeons in the base- 
 ment are more numerous than they 
 are there ; the wall of division from 
 east to west is here in tlie centre, and 
 there were 4 dungeons on the 
 southern space instead of 2 ; but on 
 the northern side the arrangement 
 must have been exactly the same. 
 The upper floor is almost identical 
 
 in arrangement The grand 
 
 entmnce opened into a large and 
 lofty hall. At the S.E. angle is a 
 room called the Chapel, but there is 
 no trace on the wall of sedilia, 
 piscina, or altar .... and the rude 
 carvings in the S.E, recess, strangely 
 called an ' altar-piece,' are clearly 
 the eftbrts of some unfortunate pri- 
 soner to beguile his time." — Harrod. 
 There seems no reason for believing 
 this apartment to have been a chapel. 
 The similar room at Rising was, as 
 Mr. Harrod suggests, a private apart- 
 ment for the lord of the castle, wlien- 
 ever he should be compelled to take 
 refuge in the keep. Tiie walls of 
 the keep are ijierced by triforial gal- 
 leries, where sentinels or prisoners of 
 ancient days have scratched their 
 names and grotesque fancies, still to 
 be detected. Stairs lead to the ram- 
 parts, whence the view is, of course, 
 still wider than from the exterior 
 platform. The position of the Cathe- 
 dral in the lower ground, the winding 
 of the Wensum, Mousehold Heath 
 across the river (eastward), with 
 Rett's Castle conspicuous (see jJost 
 for a notice of Rett's rising), and the 
 wooded heights of Tliorj^e beyond, 
 are the chief points to be noticed. 
 
 The modern buildings within the 
 keep form the gaol itself. The 
 massive wall and embattled gate 
 of granite, by which the mound is 
 surrounded and approached, were 
 constructed at the time of the " re- 
 storation " of the keep. 
 
 There may have been, as at Thet- 
 ford (see Rto, 12), a stronghold esta- 
 blished, during the Saxon period, on 
 the earlier mound and within the 
 
 earlier dykes. But the first Castle 
 was built here soon after the Con- 
 quest, In 1074 the Constable was 
 Ralph Guader, a Breton on his 
 mother's side; his father was an 
 Englishman, and born in Norfolk, 
 whence, says the ' Anglo - Saxon 
 Chronicle,' " the king gave his son 
 the earldom of Norfolk and also of 
 Suffolk," In 107G Earl Ralph mar- 
 ried at Norwich the daughter of 
 William Fitzosbern. In the Castle 
 was held 
 
 " that bride ale 
 That was many men's bale," 
 
 A rising against AVilliam, absent 
 in Normandy, was there organised ; 
 but before Earl Ralph was ready, he 
 was attacked and compelled to " flee 
 to the ships." His wife held out the 
 Castle until " peace was granted to 
 her," and she then " went out from 
 England," It was at this " bride 
 ale " that "VValtheof of Northumbria 
 was present, and for his share in the 
 plot he was beheaded at Winchester 
 in the following year, Norwich 
 Castle and the earldom then passed 
 to the great and powerful house of 
 Bigod, which seems to have retained 
 it, witli some intervals, until the 
 extinction of the house in the 25tli 
 year of Edward I. Earl Hugh, 
 temp. Henry I. and Stephen, was 
 removed to make way for William 
 de Blois, Earl of Mortaigne, son of 
 Ring Stephen, This William was dis- 
 possessed on the accession of Henry 
 II,, who seized Norwich among other 
 castles. (The custody was promised in 
 perpetuity to Hugh Bigod and his 
 heirs by the youn^" Ring Henry ( son of 
 Hen, II, I before the commencement of 
 the rebellion in 1173. It was during 
 this rebellion (May, 1174) that Nor- 
 wich was sacked and burnt by Hugh 
 Bigod and his Flemings from Fram- 
 Irngham.— Ben. Ahhas.) Richard I. 
 restored Norwich to Roger Bigod, 
 son of Hugh. The Castle was taken 
 by Lewis of France (1216), but was 
 speedily recovered, and again placed 
 
KORFOLK. 
 
 lloiite 1. — Norwich: Guildhall. 
 
 195 
 
 in the hands of Koger Bigod. His 
 descendant, Hugh Bigod, was a very 
 central figure in the gathering of 
 the Barons against Henry III. and 
 during the war. He was made 
 Grand Justiciar by the Barons 
 (1258) ; was deposed by the king in 
 1262 ; but seems to have fought (and 
 fled) on the King's side at Lewes in 
 1264. (See M. Paris, p. 853). The 
 last Bigod " lived to wrest the final 
 confirmation of the liberties of Eng- 
 land from the hands of the great 
 Edward himself." — Confirmation of 
 the Great Charter, 1297. (See Hal- 
 lam's ' M. A.' iii. p. 2.) " I do not 
 know," he writes, "that England 
 has ever produced any patriots to 
 whom she owes more gratitude than 
 Humphrey Bohun, Earl of Hereford 
 and Essex, and Koger Bigod, Earl 
 of Norfolk." It was the latter who, 
 when Edward I. insisted that the 
 great English lords (who had refused) 
 should follow him to his wars in 
 Guienne, saying, " By God, Sir 
 Earl, you shall either go or hang," 
 made answer, " By God, Sir King, 
 we will neither go nor hang." 
 Fierce, turbulent, and laowerful, the 
 Bigods were among the proudest of 
 the feudal peers, and were only kej^t 
 in restraint by such a hammer of 
 feudalism as Henry II. 
 
 The other chief castles of the 
 Bigods were Framlingham (Suffolk, 
 Kte. 5), and Bungay (Suffolk, Kte. 
 9). 
 
 The keep of Norwich as we now 
 see it (or rather as it was before 
 the " restoration ") was, no doubt, 
 the work of the Bigods, and for the 
 most part, as seems probable, of Earl 
 Hugli, temp. Henry I. 
 
 After the extinction of the house 
 of Bigod, Norwich Castle seems to 
 have gradually fallen into disrepair, 
 and it soon became no more than 
 the county gaol. Kett was hanged 
 on its battlements after the rebellion 
 of 1549. ' See 'post.) It played no part 
 in the Civil Wars ; and no events of 
 interest have in later times been 
 
 connected with it. Its history, like 
 its architecture, belongs to the cen- 
 turies immediately following the 
 Conquest. 
 
 The Shirehall, on the E. side of 
 the Castle, and within the Castle 
 ditch, was built in 1823, from a 
 design by Wilkins. The Cattle 
 Marliet, the large open space S. and 
 E. of the Castle, is widely famous. 
 It is thronged on Saturdays; and 
 tlie assemblage of cattle is said 
 to be larger than in any other 
 English market. Borrow has laid 
 here some of the scenes with Mr. 
 Petulengro the gipsy horse-dealer, 
 who figures in ' Lavengro.' 
 
 The Guildhall, in the market-place, 
 sm-mounted by a modern clock- 
 turret, has no regularity or beauty of 
 architecture to recommend it, but it 
 is built of smooth black flint, and oc- 
 cupies the site of the old " TollboothJ* 
 It is surmounted by a grey modern 
 clock-turret. In a chamber still 
 existing beneath it, Bilney the 
 martyr was imprisoned, and was 
 led from it (Aug. 19, 1531) to the 
 stake in the Lollards' pit (see post, 
 under Mousehold). It was in this 
 vault that Bilney, "St. Bilney," 
 as Latimer called him, held his 
 finger in the lighted candle to show 
 til at he would not shrink from the 
 fiery trial of the morrow. The 
 council chamber preserves the fittings 
 of a Court of Justice of tlie age of 
 Henry YIII. nearly unaltered ; having 
 carved panels, windows with stained 
 glass, and an open timber roof. It is 
 lined with old portraits : among them 
 those of Archbishop Parker, a native 
 of Norwich, who attended Anne 
 Boleyn to the scatfold, and received 
 from her the charge of the education 
 of her daughter Elizabeth, by whom 
 he was afterwards placed in the see of 
 Canterbury ; and of Chief Justice 
 Coke. Here is also, in a glass case, 
 the sword of the Spanish admiral 
 Don XavierWinthuysen, taken at the 
 
 e2 
 
196 
 
 Boute 1. — Nonvich : St. Andrew'' s Halt. Sect. III. 
 
 battle oif Cape St. Vincent by Lord I 
 Nelson, and presented by him to the 
 city. The autograph letter of the 
 great admiral is placed beside it. 
 
 The city '"Eegalia" are kept in 
 the Guildhall; amongst them is a 
 mace presented by Queen Elizabeth 
 on her visit in 1578. And here is 
 preserved '^Snap" the Dragon^ a iigure 
 made chiefly of wickerwork, covered 
 with canvas and gilt, which, mitil 
 recently, led an annual procession to 
 the Cathedral, consisting of the mayor 
 elect, attended by four tvhifflers, or 
 men who brandished glittering swords 
 to keep off the crowd, and followed by 
 mace, standard, and sword beareis, 
 with bands of music. The cathedral 
 on this occasion was strewn with 
 sweet-scented flags {Acorus calamus, 
 gro^Ying plentifully in the Yare and 
 the Broads). The sermon being 
 over, the mayor paused a few minutes 
 at the Grammar School, to hear a 
 Latin oration, spoken by the senior 
 scholar, and then returned to St. 
 Andrew's Hall to preside at the 
 city feast, which often collected 
 from 700 to 1000 guests. This 
 ceremony originated with the Guild 
 of St. George, a wealthy and im- 
 portant fraternity, established in 
 1385, and always closely connected 
 with the corporation of the city. The 
 guild was dissolved in 1731. Its pro- 
 cession took place on St. George's 
 Day, and was graced by the presence, 
 not of the Dragon only, but of the 
 Saint himself in armour, personified 
 by one of the brethren of the guild, 
 and of St. INIargaret (also a van- 
 quisher of the Dragon), represented 
 by one of the guild sisters. She was 
 known as the " Lady of the Guild." 
 Such processions may still be wit- 
 nessed in great perfection in some of 
 the old Flemish cities; and it is 
 possible that the close connection of 
 Norwich with Flanders may have led 
 to the unusual development of the 
 "guild procession " in this city. The 
 Norwich guild possessed an " arm of 
 St. George"— a relic given to the 
 
 fraternity by Sir Jolm Fastolf. It 
 Avas kept among the relics in the 
 Cathedral. Another arm of St. 
 George was much reverenced at 
 Canterbury. 
 
 Behind the Guildhall is the Puhlic 
 Library, containing about 30,000 
 volumes. 
 
 St. Andreic's Hall (open daily\ on 
 St. Andrew's Plain, at the corner of 
 Blackfriars-street, is the great public 
 hall of the cit)', and well deserves a 
 visit. It was the nave of the ch. of 
 the Blackfriars (Dominican) convent, 
 and was granted to the city at the 
 Dissolution. The Dominicans had 
 first established themselves on the 
 other side of the river ; but after the 
 small order of the "Fratres de Sacco " 
 was dissolved in 1307, the Domini- 
 cans obtained a grant of their house, 
 which adjoined the present Hall. 
 The Hall or ch. is, however, of late 
 Perp. character, and seems to have 
 been built betw^een 1440 and 1470. 
 (It is generally said, after Blome- 
 field, that Sir Thomas Erpingham 
 built the ch. ; but his son Eobert, 
 who died in 1445, was a friar of this 
 house, and Mr, Harrod suggests 
 that he left the Erpingham pro])erty 
 toward the erection of the building. 
 The arms of Erpingham are on the 
 external wall of the clerestory be- 
 tween the windows.) In its original 
 state the ch. consisted of nave, choir, 
 and central steeple, octagonal above 
 the roof. There were no transepts. 
 The steeple fell in 1712. The choir 
 is without aisles, and long served as 
 the "Dutch Church," having been 
 assigned, like the crypt of Canter- 
 bury Cathedral, to those who fled 
 from Holland during the persecution 
 of Alva. The S. porch, by which the 
 Hall is entered, dates from 1774, and 
 is by no means admirable ; but the 
 doors are original, excellent in design, 
 and should be noticed. The nave 
 or hall is 126 ft. long, with a central 
 and side aisles. The piers, arches, 
 and clerestory are late Perp. ; as are 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boute 1. — Nonmch: Museum, 
 
 197 
 
 the lower windows, with the excep- 
 tion of some on the S. side, which are 
 somewhat earlier. The hall has been 
 used for many purposes, noticeably 
 for the great civic feasts, for which, 
 in the good old days, Norwich was 
 almost as highly celebrated as 
 London. (It was here that Charles 
 II., his queen and court, were 
 solemnly feasted, and here that he 
 knighted Sir Thomas Browne.) 
 Since 1824 the Norwich musical 
 festival has been held in it (Spohr's 
 ' Fall of Babylon ' was produced here 
 in 1842). The organ and orchestra 
 were formerly at the W. end, but 
 they have lately been removed to the 
 E. ; and the roof of the hall has 
 been coloured in blue and red. On 
 the walls hang nmnerous pictures, 
 chiefly of civic dignitaries; among 
 ■which the most noticeable are — Sir 
 Harbord Harbord, by Gainsborough ; 
 Charles Harvey, by Lawrence ; 
 William Windham, by Hoppner ; 
 and two by Opie. There is also 
 a well-known portrait of Lord Nelson 
 by Beechey, painted in 1801, after 
 the Battle of the Nile. Two pictures 
 (Edward and Queen Eleanor, and 
 the death of Lady Jane Grey) by 
 Martin, a local artist, given by him 
 to the city in 1787, are. conspicuous 
 at the W. end. 
 
 On the N. side of the Hall, between 
 it and the river, are buildings long 
 appropriated to the city workhouse, 
 but which now are used as "King 
 Edward's Commercial School," a new 
 school connected with the " Free 
 Grammar School " in the Close. The 
 buildings thus used are the cloister 
 and portions of the domestic build- 
 ings belonging to the Dominican 
 convent. They are all of Decorated 
 character. At the E. end is what is 
 known as Becket's Chapel, regarded 
 by Mr. Harrod as the crypt of the 
 first Dominican ch. here, before tlie 
 present St. Andrew's Hall was built. 
 
 The Norfolk and Norwich Museum, 
 in St. Andrew's, Broad street, esta- 
 
 blished in 1824, is open to the public 
 on Mondays and Saturdays from 10 
 till 4 ; on other days the hitrod notion 
 of a member is required. I'he build- 
 ing abuts upon the Free Library and 
 Literary Institution (see post), one 
 very fine room of which, nnder an 
 arrangement made with the Cor- 
 poration, now forms a portion of tlio 
 space devoted to the Museum. 
 
 The Museum itself contains several 
 fine rooms, the largest of which is 
 the " Chaj)el-room," so called on 
 account of its having been the 
 private chapel of the Dukes of Nor- 
 folk, at the time when their palace 
 occupied the site of the present 
 Museum. This room contains the 
 greater part of the collection of birds 
 of prey, which is one of the finest 
 in the world, and numbers upwards 
 of 2750 specimens (including about 
 400 species), many of them being 
 quite unique and others extremely 
 rare. Besides this most interesting 
 collection of raptorial birds, the 
 IMuseum has an unusually perfect 
 series of British birds, and a miscel- 
 laneous collection of European, 
 African, Indian, and Australian 
 specimens, of which the latter largely 
 predominate. The chief feature of 
 the Museum next to the ornithological 
 collection, is a magnificent series of 
 fossil mammalian remains, princi- 
 pally from the forest-beds along the 
 Norfolk coast. This comprises the re- 
 mains of several species of elephants, 
 the mastodon, species of hippopo- 
 tamus and rhinoceros, beavers, 
 whales, and several species of deer. 
 Some of the specimens are of colossal 
 size, and excite no little astonish- 
 ment. In this department also is a 
 good series, arranged in geological 
 order, of the tertiary, secondary, and 
 palaeozoic fossils. Amongst the former 
 is an extensive collection of shells 
 from the Norwich Crag and other 
 local formations. 
 
 The antiquities deserve particular 
 attention, manj of them having been 
 found in the county, and are exceed^ 
 
198 
 
 Boiite l.^-^Noricich : Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 ingly interesting. In one of the 
 rooms is a capital collection of insects 
 of all orders and classes, arranged in 
 five cabinets. Tliose containing the 
 British and foreign Lepidoptera are 
 well worth inspecting. Tlie Museum 
 also possesses a very valuable herba- 
 rium, containing specimens of all 
 the English flowering plants, witli a 
 good library of botanical works. 
 The shells, minerals, as well as 
 many articles of ethnological interest 
 in various parts of the building, are 
 well worthy of notice. 
 
 In the " chapel-room " is a case 
 containing some rare manuscripts 
 and early printed books, the property 
 of the mayor and corporation of 
 Norwich. These have been lent by 
 the city authorities. Amongst the 
 manuscripts is a Wyclitf Bible. In 
 the British bird room is an admirable 
 portrait of Mr. J. H. Gurney, the 
 president of the Museuna, painted by 
 Grant. And in one of the committee 
 rooms is hung some cm-ious old 
 tapestry, probably of the time of 
 Henry VII. This was formerly in 
 Norwich cathedral. 
 
 The Literary Institution, contain- 
 ing a very large and good library, 
 is under the same roof as the Museum. 
 The whole building oocupies part of 
 the site of the palace of the Dukes 
 of Norfolk (first acquired by them 
 in the reign of Hen. VIII.), the 
 palace of which Macaulay, in the 
 passage already quoted, has described 
 the splendour. It was pulled down 
 by the grandson of the " Lord Henry 
 Howard" (afterwards D. of Norfolk), 
 who entertained Charles II. here, be- 
 cause, says the story, the mayor re- 
 fused to let the duke's comedians 
 enter the town with a flourish of 
 trumpets. It was. Fuller tells us, 
 " the greatest house he ever saw in a 
 city out of London." 
 
 (For the Churches, see i^ost, after 
 the Cathedral.) 
 
 The Cathedral, with its closes, oc- 
 cupies the lower ground near the 
 river. Three portals, the Bishop's 
 gate ; the Erpingham gate ; and St. 
 EthelherVs gate, give admission to 
 the tipper close. The view within 
 the closes, especially in early spring, 
 when the fresh green of young leafage 
 contrasts very pleasantly witli the 
 many red roofs, the gray gables, and 
 old stonework, is sufficiently pic- 
 turesque. But leaving gates and 
 closes for the present, the visitor will 
 first direct his attention to the Ca- 
 thedral, the lofty upward - soaring 
 spire of which he will have seen from 
 the Castle Hill, and from other points 
 of the city, and which will certainly 
 not disappoint him on a closer ap- 
 proach. 
 
 The East Anglian see was first 
 founded about a.d. 630 by Felix the 
 Burgundian, under King Sigeberht, 
 at Dunu-ich (see Suffolk, Kte. 5). 
 In 673, Abp. Theodore divided the 
 diocese, and established a second see 
 at Elmham (see Nokfolk, Rte, 8, and 
 also Suffolk, Kte. 9, the Ehnliams.) 
 The succession to both sees was much 
 disturbed during, and in consequence 
 of, tlie Danish invasions and settle- 
 ments ; and in 956, when iEthelwulf 
 became bishop of Elmham, the 
 bishops of Dunwich hud quite dis- 
 appeared. East Anglia henceforth 
 contained but a single see. Herfast, 
 the first Norman bishop (1070-1086), 
 removed the see from Elmham to 
 Thetford. Bishop Herbert Losinga 
 (1091-1119) again removed it from 
 Thetford, and fixed it permanently at 
 Norwich. The first stone of the ex- 
 isting Cathedral was laid by this 
 bishop in 1096. A Benedictine priory, 
 in connection with it, was founded 
 at the same time. Bishop Herbert's 
 work is said to have comprised the 
 choir and its aisles, the tower, and the 
 transepts. Bp. Everard (1121, de- 
 posed 1145) added the nave. The 
 eh. was much injured by fire in 
 1171, but was restored and com- 
 pleted by Bp. John of Oxford (1175. 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Bouie 1. — NonvicTi: Cathedral. 
 
 199 
 
 1200). A Lady chapel, destroyed 
 by Dean Gardiner in the reign of 
 Elizabeth, was added at the eastern 
 end by Bp. Walter de Suftield 
 (1245-1257). The ch. was again 
 much injured by fire in 1272. It was 
 restored and solemnly consecrated in 
 honour of the Holy Trinity on Ad- 
 vent Sunday, 1278 ; Edward I,, his 
 queen and court, being present at the 
 ceremony. The present spire was 
 added by Bp. Percy (1356-1369). 
 In 1463 it was struck by lightning, 
 and was repaired by Bp. Lehart. 
 The Beauchamp Chapel was added 
 during the Dec. period, but its exact 
 date is unknown. The W. front was 
 altered by Bp. Alnwick (1426, trans. 
 1436). The vaulting of the nave 
 was the work of Bp. Walter Lehart 
 (1446-1472) ; the clerestory and stone 
 roofoftbechoirof Bp.Goldwell(1472- 
 1499). Bp. Nykke, or Nix (1501- 
 1536), added tlie vaulting of the tran- 
 septs, and probably altered the lower 
 arches of the choir. The cloister, 
 commenced by Bp. Walpole in 1297, 
 was completed by Bp. Alnwick in 
 1430. These dates will assist us in 
 examining the Cathedral, the Norman 
 icorh of which, with the magnificent 
 series of Heme vaults above nave, 
 choir, and transe[)ts, are its most 
 striking and important features. No 
 English Cathedral (with the excep- 
 tion perhaps of Peterborough) has 
 preserved its original Norman plan 
 so nearly undisturbed. 
 
 Norwicli Cathedral suffered greatly 
 at the hands of the Puritans in 1643-4. 
 The Sheriff, one Tofts, with a brace 
 of zealous aldermen, Lindsey and 
 Greenwood, were members of the 
 committee " for viewing churches," 
 an ingenious euphemism for " de- 
 stroying" them. "It is tragical," 
 writes Bp. Hall, in his ' Hard Mea- 
 sure,' "to relate the previous sacri- 
 lege committed under the authority 
 of Lindsey, Tofts, and Greenwood : 
 what clattering of glasses, what beat- 
 ing down of walls, what tearing down 
 of monuments, what pulling down 
 
 of seats, and wresting out of irons 
 and brass from the windows and 
 graves; what defacing of arms, what 
 demolishing of curious stonework, 
 that had not any representation in 
 the world but the cost of the 
 founder, and skill of the mason ; 
 what piping on the destroyed organ- 
 pipes; vestments both copes and sur- 
 plices, together with the leaden cross 
 which had been newly sawn down 
 from over the Greenyard pulpit, and 
 the singing books and service books, 
 were carried to the fire in the public 
 market-place, a lewd wretch walking 
 before the train in his cope trailing 
 in the dirt, with a service-book in 
 his hand, imitating in an impious 
 scorn the tune, and usurping the 
 words of the litany. The ordinance 
 being discharged on the guild day, 
 the Cathedral was filled with mus- 
 keteers, drinking and tobacconing, 
 as freely as if it had turned ale- 
 house." This severe handling suffi- 
 ciently accounts for the absence of 
 ancient stained glass, brasses, and 
 other memorials. 
 
 Leaving for the present the general 
 exterior of the building, we may 
 notice the West Front in enteiing. 
 This, originally Norm., was greatly 
 altered by Bp. Alnwick, partly during 
 his life, and partly by his executors. 
 The central door has in the spandrels 
 the bishoji's arms, and those of the 
 see. The window above was added 
 by the bishop's executors, in accord- 
 ance with the directions of his will. 
 It is of great, perhaps dispropor- 
 tionate, size, although the tracery 
 with which it is filled is good, and 
 resembles as nearly as possible tliat 
 of the W. window of Westminster 
 Hall. Norman turrets rise on either 
 side, and the fronts of the aisles 
 are Norm, with Perp. additions in 
 the parapets and windows. The 
 pinnacles which crown the flanking 
 tiu-rets are entirely modern. 
 
 The Nave, which we now enter, is 
 throughout Norm, with the exception 
 of its vaulted roof, and of the chapel 
 
200 
 
 Boute 1. — Norwich: Catliedral. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 constructed by Bp. Nix in the S. 
 aisle. It is, as has been said, in all 
 probability the work of Bp. Ev(_rard 
 (1121-1145), who no doubt followed 
 the original plan of the founder, Bp. 
 Herbert. The effeet of the massive 
 Norm, work is very grand ; though 
 (partly owing, it may be, to the late 
 lierne vault which, magnificent in 
 itself, disturbs the uniformity) the 
 nave of Norwich is scarcely so im- 
 posing as those, somewhat later, of 
 Ely and Peterborough, with which 
 it may fairly be compared. It ex- 
 tends 250 ft. from the W. door, and 
 comprises 14 bays to the intersection 
 of the transepts. (It is thus the 
 longest in England, with the ex- 
 ception of St. Alban's. which extends 
 to 300 ft. Ely, from W. transept to 
 octagon, is 203 ft. ; Peterborough, 
 from W. transept to W. piers of 
 tower, 211 ft.) As was usual in 
 great Norman churches, 3 bays of 
 the nave, W. of the transept, are here 
 included in the choir. In the nave 
 remark the massive piers, alternating 
 regularly in design as far as the 10th 
 pier from the W. end ; and the great 
 0]3en arches of the trifon'um, scarcely 
 less in size than those of the arcade 
 below ; — these at once attract atten- 
 tion, and form a more peculiar feature 
 in the general view of the nave than 
 its unusual lengtli. TJie triforium 
 arch left entirely open in tliis manner 
 is unusual in England, though it 
 occurs in early Norm, work on the 
 continent. (Tlie nave of Wymond- 
 ham (Rte. 6), the ruined churches of 
 Castle Acre Priory (Rte, 7) of Bin- 
 ham Priory (Rte. 5), and of St. 
 Botulph's at Colchester (Essex, 
 Rte. 2) had similar triforia.) The 
 triforium extends over the whole 
 space of the aisles, and is lighted at 
 present by Perp. windows inserted 
 at the back by Bp. Alnwick, who 
 raised the exterior wall for tliis pur- 
 pose. The derestorij, set back within 
 a wall-passage, forms a series of triple 
 arches, the central being higher than 
 the others. The clerestory lights are 
 
 Perp. The lierne vault was the work 
 of Bp. Walter Lehart (1446-1472) ; 
 the Norm, roof, which was of wood, 
 having been much injured when the 
 spire was struck by liglitning in 1463. 
 The bi.-ihop's rebus or device, a hart 
 lying in thu water ( Water Lie-hart), 
 alternates with an angel bearing a 
 shield, on the corbels at the bases 
 of the longer vaulting shafts. The 
 bosses of the roof are covered with 
 minute figures, said to be 328 in 
 number, which form a complete sacred 
 history, beginning at the lower end 
 with the Creation, and ending with 
 the Last Judgment. The original 
 colouring and gilding of these is now 
 in coui'se of restoration. The nave 
 piers have unfortunately been covered 
 with a yellow wash, which, by means 
 of strong brushes and potash, has been 
 removed from some in the S. aisle 
 with very good result. It is much to 
 be wished that all the piers were 
 so served. The results of some ex- 
 periments made witli iron scrapers 
 are not so satisfactory. The West 
 ivindoiv is filled with pictorial stained 
 glass by Hedgeland, as a memorial 
 of Bp. Stanley (d. 1849); the sub- 
 jects are — the Adoration of the Magi, 
 the finding of Moses, and the Ascen- 
 sion, after Eaffaelle ; the Brazen Ser- • 
 pent, after Le Brun ; and Christ 
 blessing little Children, after West. 
 In the centre of the nave, over the 
 tomb of Bp. Stanley, is a black 
 marble slab, the inscription on which 
 should be read. 
 
 The Nave Aisles are Norm, (includ- 
 ing the vaulting) with Perp. windows 
 inserted. In the N. aisle is a me- 
 morial window for William Smyth, 
 d. 1849, for 40 years Professor of 
 Modern History at Cambridge ; and 
 the altar-tomb 'from which the brasses 
 have been removed) of Sir John 
 Hobart, Attorney-General to Henry 
 VII. In the S. aisle the 7th and 
 8th bays were converted into a 
 chantry by Bp, Nix (1501-1536); a 
 somewhat indifferent prelate, who, 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boiife l.—NorivicJi: Cathedral. 
 
 201 
 
 says Godwin, " in spite of his name, 
 had little of snow in his breast." 
 The sides and vaulting are encrusted 
 with late Perp. work. In the 9th 
 bay is the plain altar-tomb of Bp. 
 Parkhurst (1560-1575), the tutor of 
 Bp. Jewel. In this aisle are (E.) the 
 Prior's door, and (W.) the Monks' 
 door, opening to the cloisters (see 
 post). 
 
 The lower part of the Organ Screen 
 is ancient, and the work of Bp. Le- 
 hart ; the upper, heavy and ugly, was 
 completed in 1833. Between the 
 piers, on either side of the screen door, 
 were altars. That N. was dedicated 
 to St. William, a boy said to have 
 been crucified here by the Jews 
 (March 22, 1144. A similar story is 
 localised in many other towns, both 
 in England and on the continent ; 
 the most famous is that of " Little 
 St. Hugh " of Lincoln, said to have 
 been killed by the Jews in the middle 
 of the 13th centy.) ; the S. altar was 
 dedicated to St. Mary. The ante- 
 choir, filling the space between two 
 piers under the organ-loft, was the 
 chapel of Our Lady of Pity. 
 
 Two bays, W. of the tower, are, as 
 has already been said, included in 
 the choir. These bays differ from 
 those of the actual nave only in 
 having a plain outer moulding round 
 their arches, instead of a billet. The 
 choir and presbytery extend to the 
 extreme eastern apse, the graceful 
 curve of which, seen beyond the 
 Norman arcades of the central tower, 
 is very picturesque and striking. In 
 the choir W. of the tower, observe 
 particularly the stalls, 62 in number 
 (for prior, sub-prior, and 60 monks). 
 They are Perp. dating probably from 
 the middle of the 15th centy., and 
 merit the closest examination. Carv- 
 ing and details are excellent. The 
 misereres below are of two periods, 
 the beginning and the end of 15th 
 centy. The first have seats with 
 sharp angles, the others, seats rounded 
 at the sides, and sinking inward at 
 the centre. The subjects with which 
 
 they are carved are much varied. 
 Notice, on the S. side of the choir 
 (16th stall from the W.), two figures 
 preparing to wrestle, and (in the Cor- 
 poration pew, 30th stall from W.) a 
 fox running off with a goose, followed 
 by a woman with a distaff. 
 
 The Central Tower is early Norm. 
 (Bp. Herbert's work) below, with 
 upper stories, also Norm., but of later 
 date. These upper stories are en- 
 riched with open arcades, the top- 
 most pierced for windows. The 
 lantern is at present closed by a flat 
 wooden ceiling of the worst possible 
 design, the speedy removal of which 
 is much to be desired. Tlie transepts 
 (see^os^), which open from the tower, 
 were formerly separated from the 
 choir, but, of late years, have been 
 thrown open so as to admit of their 
 use during service. 
 
 The Presbytery, which extends 
 eastward of the tower, has been 
 greatly altered, although the original 
 Norm, ground plan remains un- 
 changed. The roof and clerestory 
 were no doubt injured in 1463, when 
 the spire was struck by lightning. 
 About 10 years afterwards the present 
 lofty clerestory and stone vault were 
 erected by Bp. Goldwell (1472-1499). 
 Early in the following century the 
 main arches, on either side, as far as 
 the apse, were changed from Norm, 
 to Perp. The original arrangement 
 seems to have differed in no respect 
 from that of the nave. The Norm, 
 arches of the triforium remain un- 
 touched. 
 
 Bp. Goldwell's clerestory is very 
 light and graceful. The tracery in 
 the windows deserves notice. The 
 lierne vault is not so rich as that of 
 the nave, and the carved bosses are 
 fur inferior. 
 
 The apse, terminating the presby- 
 tery eastward. Norm, and the work 
 of Bp. Herbert, is semicircular as 
 high as the top of the triforium. The 
 clerestory, added by Bp. Goldwell, 
 is pentagonal ; and the manner iu 
 
 k3 
 
202 
 
 Moute 1. -^Norwich : Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 which the change is effected deserves 
 notice. The lower story of the apse 
 consists of five arclies, now entirely 
 closed at the back. They were 
 originally open halfway up, and con- 
 tained stone benches for the clergy. 
 The bishop's throne stood beneath 
 the central arch (the arrangement is 
 still to be seen in the eastern aisle). 
 This was the most ancient position 
 for the episcopal chair, at the back 
 of the high altar ; a position which 
 it still occupies in many continental 
 churches, as it formerly did at Canter- 
 bury. No English church, except 
 Norwich Cathedral, now shows dis- 
 tinct traces of it. The fine triforium 
 arches, their groups of shafts, and 
 the space seen at the back, lighted 
 by windows filled with stained glass, 
 produce a very striking eftect. The 
 clerestoiy has no wall passage. The 
 glass with which its windows are 
 filled, as well as that in the triforium 
 windows below, is entirely modern, 
 by Warrington, and tolerably good. 
 
 The view looking westward from 
 the apse should be noticed. The 
 unusual height of the choir (83 ft.), 
 contrasted with that of tlie nave 
 (69 ft.), and the open arcades of the 
 central tower, are the features which 
 most attract attention. 
 
 The four main arclies on either 
 side of the presbytery have been 
 closed from behind, and converted 
 into recesses enriched with late 
 Perp. work. The arms of Boleyn, 
 with quarterings, appear on panels 
 above the recesses, and probably in- 
 dicate, as Mr. Harrod suggests, that 
 the whole change of the Norm, 
 arches was effected by the Boleyns 
 after the death and as a memorial 
 of Sir William Boleyn of Blickling 
 (d. 1505), whose tomb is in the first 
 arcli, S. (counting from the E.). Sir 
 William was the great-grandfather of 
 Queen Elizabeth (see Blickling, Kte. 
 4). The tomb is plain. In the 
 next recess, S., is the monument of 
 Bp. Overall (1618-19), with a quaint 
 coloured bust looking out from a j 
 
 niche above. The monument was 
 placed here by his friend and secre- 
 tary John Cosin, after his own eleva- 
 tion to the see of Durham. Overall 
 was translated to Norwich from 
 Lichfield, and was one of the most 
 learned divines of his time. He is 
 best remembered by his so-called 
 ' Convocation Book,' but is said to 
 have been the composer of the latter 
 part of the Catechism (containing an 
 explanation of the sacraments) which 
 was added in 1604. In the tliird 
 recess is the tomb of Bp. Goldwell 
 (1472-79), the builder of clerestory 
 and roof. This recess was not closed 
 by a wall, and is now glazed at the 
 back. The canopy divides the arch. 
 The trelliswork tracery of the vault- 
 ing should be noticed. The altar- 
 tomb is at the S.W. corner of the 
 recess, and in the space, E., an altar 
 was placed by the bp. in his lifetime, 
 dedicated to the Holy Trinity and 
 SS. James, Greater and Less. The 
 effigy is remarkable as " the only 
 instance of the monumental effigy of 
 a bishop, prior to the Eeformation, in 
 which the cappa '[jluvialis, or pro- 
 cessional cope, is represented as the 
 outward vestment instead of the 
 chasuble." — Bloxam. 
 
 On the N. side of the presbytery, 
 the first recess (the westernmost) 
 contains mural tablets for Bp. Home 
 (1790-92) and Dean Lloyd (d.l790). 
 In the second is the monument of 
 Dr. Moore (d. 1779) ; on a panel in 
 front is a tablet for the youngest son 
 of Bp. Hall (d. 1642). The fourth 
 recess is known as Queen Elizabeth's 
 seat, because it was prepared for her 
 occupation on the royal visit to Nor- 
 wich in 1578. In it now ajDpears 
 Chantrey's very fine sitting figure 
 of Bp. Bathurst (d. 1837), much out 
 of place, but well deserving of atten- 
 tion. The quatrefoil opening at the 
 back of this recess was probably 
 connected with the Easter sepulchre, 
 which seems to have been placed 
 here. 
 
 Bp. Herbert Losinga, the founder 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boute 1. — Nonoicli: Cathedral, 
 
 203 
 
 of tliG Norm. Cathedral, was buried 
 in front of the apse, before the high 
 altar. Here now stands a very beau- 
 tiful brass lectern, of late Dec. 
 character, deserving careful atten- 
 tion. A " pelican in her piety " 
 forms the support. Round the base 
 are 3 figures— a bishop, priest, and 
 deacon. 
 
 The Transepts, like the clioir, were 
 no doubt the work of Bp. Herbert. 
 Their general arrangement is the 
 same as that of nave and choir, with 
 some variation in details. Tiie vaulted 
 roof was added by Bp. Nix. Both 
 transepts had apsidal chapels pro- 
 jecting eastward. That in the N. 
 transept still remains ; that in the 
 S. has long disappeared. 
 
 In the South transept, the roof 
 bosses illustrate the early history of 
 our Lord. This transept contains 
 the monument of Bishop Scam- 
 bler (d. 1595), and a bad stained- 
 glass window, judiciously removed 
 from the choir. The arch opening 
 to the S. choir aisle is filled with 
 a screen work of rich late Perp. tra- 
 cery by Robert Castleton, prior of 
 Norwich from 1499 to 1.j29. The 
 design and the iron work of the 
 lock are noticeable. At the S.E. 
 angle is the Vestry, a long vaulted 
 room of the Dec. period, with a 
 chamber above it, possibly a chapel 
 of St. Edmund. In the vestry is 
 preserved the reredos of the Jesus 
 Ciiapel (see post) ; a work, in the 
 judgment of Mr. Albert Way, of tlie 
 Siennese school (circ. 1370). The 
 heads, he observes, especially that of 
 St. John, " recall strikingly the 
 works of Simone Memnii. That 
 artist, however, died as early as 
 1345." Dr. Waagen, on the other 
 hand, has no doubt " as to the Eng- 
 lish origin of the picture." The sub- 
 jects are — the Scourging, the Bear- 
 ing the Cross, the Crucifixion, the 
 Resurrection, and the Ascension. It 
 is in size colours, and is protected by 
 a glass. 
 
 la the North transept, over a door 
 
 at the N. end, now closed, is a cir- 
 cular wall arcade, curiously orna- 
 mented above with a billet-moulding 
 disposed in triangular arches, with a 
 rudely carved animal's head project- 
 ing between them. Here the bosses 
 of Bp. Nix's roof relate to the 
 Nativity. The eastern chapel re- 
 mains, but all communication with 
 the transept has been cut off, and it 
 must be entered from without. The 
 screen between this transept and the 
 choir aisle is modern. Its carvings 
 deserve attention. 
 
 The Choir Aisles are Norm., and 
 Bp. Herbert's work. The aisle ex- 
 tends quite round the choir, and 3 
 apsidal chapels projected at the E. 
 end. 
 
 Entering the North choir aisle 
 from the transept, remark a coped 
 coflin lid, possibly that of Prior 
 Nicholas de Brampton, d. 1268. 
 Above it a raised seat along the wall 
 marks the site of the monument 
 (long destroyed) of Sir Thomas 
 Erpingha^m— the " good Sir Thomas " 
 of Agincourt, and the builder of 
 Erpingham Gate (see post). A 
 chapel, of which no trace remains, 
 was entered through the arch in the 
 opposite wall. A vault of 2 bays, 
 and of early Dec. character, crosses 
 the aisle, and supports a gallery. In 
 the eastern bay is tlie quatrefoil 
 opening to the choir already noticed. 
 Professor Willis thouglit it a hagio- 
 scope, affording a view of the altar 
 from the aisle. Mr. Harrod, with 
 more probability, thinks that it was 
 usetl for watching the sepulchre light 
 during the ceremonies of Easter 
 without entering the choir. The 
 gallery over the vault, he adds, 
 might contain a pair of organs for 
 assisting the service here and in 
 Jesus Cliapel adjoining. 
 
 The Jesus Chapel, one of the Norm, 
 apsidal chapels terminating the choir 
 eastward, is formed, like the corre- 
 sponding chapel in the S. aisle, by 
 intersecting circles ; the apse, or 
 eastern end, being a smaller semi- 
 
204 
 
 Route 1 . — Norwich : Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 circle. It was entirely altered during 
 the Perp, jDcriod, when its present 
 windows were inserted. The tomb 
 in front of the altar is said to have 
 been brought here after the destruc- 
 tion of the Lady Chapel. . It is per- 
 haps that of Sir Thomas Windham 
 and his 2 wives. This chapel is 
 (1870) in course of restoration. 
 
 At the back of the choir, remark 
 the original arrangement of the 
 apse. The arches were filled with a 
 stone screen, terminating about half- 
 way up, and forming, on the inner 
 side, a series of benches or sedilia for 
 the clergy. The central arch had a 
 stone chair or throne for the bishop, 
 raised on steps at the back of the 
 altar. (Portions of this throne re- 
 main, walled up on the W. side of 
 the arch.) 
 
 The E. E. doorway, now blocked 
 up, at the E. end of the aisle, gave 
 admission to the Lady Chapel, built 
 by Bp. Walter de Suffield (1245- 
 1257), and destroyed by Dean Gar- 
 diner, in the reign of Elizabeth. Its 
 foundations, proving it to have been 
 of large size, have been traced, as 
 well as those of the central Norm, 
 apsidal chapel, which Bp. Walter 
 removed. 
 
 St. Luke's Chapel, in the S. choir 
 aisle, resembles the Jesus Chapel 
 opposite. It served till lately as the 
 p:irish ch. of St. Mary-in-the-Marsh 
 (the old parish ch, having been de- 
 stroyed), and is still filled with pews. 
 In the aisle opposite is the font, once 
 much enriched witli sculpture, but 
 now completely mutilated. It came 
 from the old parish ch., and must 
 have been one of the best fonts in 
 the county. On its 8 sides were 
 representations of the 7 Sacraments, 
 and of the Crucifixion. At tlie 
 angles were 8 of the 9 orders of 
 angels, each holding some symbol of 
 liis raidc in the heavenly hierarchy. 
 Underneath, were angels, bearing 
 each a symbol of the Sacrament 
 represented above. Round the base 
 were the four Evangelists, alternat- 
 
 ing with the four " living creatures " 
 of the Apocalypse, and below again, 
 were small figures of saints. 
 
 A chapel, called the Beauchamp 
 Chapel, but probably founded temp. 
 Edward II. by William Bauchun, 
 opens S. below St. Luke's. The S. 
 window of this chapel, the canopied 
 niche at the E. end, which perhaps 
 contained a statue of the Virgin, to 
 whom the chapel was dedicated, and 
 the bosses of the groined roof, which 
 illustrate her life, death, and assump- 
 tion, should all be noticed. The 
 chapel now serves as the Consistory 
 Court. 
 
 The long stone seat, with panelled 
 front and small figures, at the back 
 of the choir, opposite the Beauchamp 
 Chapel, formed part of the monu- 
 ment of Bp. Wakering (1416-1426), 
 shattered during the Civil War. 
 Bp. AVakering was present at the 
 Council of Constance. 
 
 The Cloisters, entered by the 
 prior's door, in the easternmost bay 
 of the S. nave aisle, are among the 
 most beautiful in England. The 
 roof especially, the bosses of which 
 are covered with elaborate carvings, 
 deserves the most careful examina- 
 tion. The Norm, cloister was de- 
 stroyed in the fire of 1272, and the 
 present structure was commenced by 
 Bp. Ealph Walpole in 1297. It was 
 continued, according to William of 
 Worcester, by Bp. Salmon and others, 
 between the years 1299 and 1325, 
 and completed by diflerent benefac- 
 tors between 1403 and 1425. INIr. 
 Harrod, however, seems to be per- 
 fectly justified in asserting that the 
 cloisters were begun and completed 
 during the Dec. period; ami that 
 the portions said by Worcester to 
 have been built 1403 and 1425, 
 were in reality only repaired and 
 altered at that period. 
 
 The cloister, it must be remem- 
 bered, was connected with the great 
 Benedictine monastery attached to 
 the cathedral, as at Canterbury, 
 Worcester, Durham, and elsewhere 
 
KORFOLK. 
 
 Boute 1. — Norwich: Cathedral. 
 
 205 
 
 in England — the only country where 
 such an arrangement (the attaching 
 of an episcopal see to a conventual 
 clmrch) at any time existed. The 
 domestic buildings of the monastery 
 were ranged round the cloister. E. 
 the prior's house, the chapter-house, 
 the dormitory, and beyond, the infir- 
 mary ; S. the refectory ; and W. 
 ( somewhat unusually) the strangers' 
 hall and dormitory. 
 
 The eastern and southern walks 
 are Dec, between 1297 and 1325. 
 The Prior's Boor is of this date, and 
 of very unusual character. Under 
 canopies which cross the mouldings 
 of the arch are figures of the Saviour 
 in majesty with angels ; and beyond, 
 on either side, representations of the 
 Jewish and the Christian Church. 
 The large windows in the E. walk 
 are early Dec. The bosses of the 
 roof contain subjects from the Gos- 
 pels, together with some very beau- 
 tiful knots of foliage. The door in 
 the sixth bay led into the slype or 
 passage between the transept and 
 tiie chapter-house. The open arches 
 beyond were the entrance of the 
 chajDter-house itself, long since de- 
 stroyed. A door beyond these arches 
 opened on a staircase which probably 
 gave access to the dormitory of the 
 monks (though the site of this is 
 uncertain) ; and beyond again a 
 vault at tlie S. end led to the in- 
 firmary, which extended E. of the 
 cloister. 
 
 The windows of the S. walk are 
 Dec, but of somewhat more advanced 
 character. The roof bosses illustrate 
 the Kevelation of St. John, witli 
 some other subjects, one of which 
 is evidently the dedication of a 
 church. (Observe the fine view of 
 the cathedral from the S.W. angle 
 of this walk.) 
 
 The West walk is really Dec, as 
 Mr. Harrod has shown, but with 
 Perp. alterations. The door formerly 
 opening to the refectory, at the S. end 
 of the walk, is Perp. ; and there are 
 Perp. portions in the beautiful lava- 
 
 tories, at the S.W. end. The roof 
 bosses continue subjects from the Ke- 
 velation. A door in this wall led 
 into the Strangers' Hall, of which 
 fragments remain without (see post). 
 The apartment over the walk may 
 have been the monastic dormitory 
 (in England usually placed above 
 the W. walk of the cloister, — but its 
 position here is uncertain), or, more 
 probably, it may have served as the 
 dormitory attached to the Strangers' 
 Hall. 
 
 At the lower angle of the North 
 walk is the monks' door, opening to 
 the nave of the cathedral. The 
 windows of this walk are Perp., set 
 in Dec frames. The roof bosses re- 
 present the legends of different saints, 
 together with a few subjects from 
 the New Testament. The E., S., 
 and W. walks have an upper story, 
 lighted by small windows looking 
 into the quadrangle. The N. walk 
 is without this addition. 
 
 Leaving the cathedral by the W. 
 door, a small building will be seen 
 under the S. wall of the nave, and 
 joining the S.W. angle of the clois- 
 ter. Tliis, until very recently, formed 
 part of a canon's house, which has 
 been removed. A Norm, substruc- 
 ture or hall was thus opened, with 
 one bay of E. Eng. work. This 
 seems to have formed part of the 
 main entrance to the cloister, to- 
 gether with the locutory. A stair- 
 case leads from it to the room over 
 the W. walk of the cloister. The 
 exterior of the hall has been re- 
 built, and it will now serve as a 
 choristers' school. 
 
 Tiie ruined E. Eng. portal, S., 
 formed the entrance to the Strangers' 
 Hall. Proceeding round by the Upper 
 Close, the visitor will find his way 
 into the Lower Close, and thence 
 outside the E. walk of the cloisters 
 to what is known as " Life's Green." 
 Outside this E. walk is the Deanery, 
 occupying the site of the Prior's 
 House, and containing some E. Eng. 
 portions. Below it, eastward, 3 late 
 
206 
 
 Route l.—Nonvicli: Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 Norm, pillars, in front of a Louse 
 in the Lower Close, were thought by 
 Professor Willis to mark the site of 
 the infirmary. This, however, is 
 uncertain, as is the site of the refec- 
 tory, which was built after the fire 
 of 1272, had destroyed the Norman 
 refectory. This stood on the S. side 
 of the cloister. It does not seem to 
 have been rebuilt on the same site, 
 and a building somewhat S. of the 
 cloister, which was destroyed in 
 1806, has been regarded as perhaps 
 the later refectory. But the appro- 
 priation is very uncertain, and the 
 exact position of the various conven- 
 tual buildings awaits, for its clearing 
 up, a thorough examination of the 
 cathedral archives. 
 
 The exterior of the central tower 
 and spii-e may be well seen from the 
 Lower Close. The tower was entirely 
 refaced in 1856 ; but its Norm, ar- 
 cades and ornamentation have been 
 carefully preserved. The flanking 
 turrets with their reed-like shafts 
 are Norm, as high as the bases of 
 the spires which crown them. These 
 spires are Perp., as is the parapet of 
 the tower itself. The spire was 
 added by Bp. Percy (1356-1869). 
 It was much injured by lightning in 
 1463, and was then repaired by Bp. 
 Lehart. Its height, from the battle- 
 ments of the tower, is 169 ft. The 
 entire height from the ground is 
 287 ft.— exceeding that of the old 
 spire of Chichester (271 ft.), and of 
 Lichfield (258 ft.), but falling much 
 short of Salisbury (404 ft.). 
 
 The face of the S. transept has 
 been recased. The exterior of the 
 choir, with its projecting apsidal 
 chapels, is M'ell seen from the Lower 
 Close. Flying buttresses, carried 
 from the wall of the triforium, con- 
 nect it with Bp. Gold well's noble 
 clerestory. Seated figures of the 
 Apostles serve as jiinnacles of the 
 buttresses. The various lines of the 
 choir and transept, with trees clus- 
 tering between them, and the tower 
 and spire rising in the background 
 
 form a composition of unusual grace 
 and beauty. 
 
 On the N. side of the ch. remark 
 the eastern chapel of the transept, 
 which has long served as a store- 
 house, and is only to be entered 
 from without. It resembled, in 
 every respect, the other Norm, cha- 
 pels ; the vaulting should be noticed. 
 Tlie N. transept retains its ancient 
 front. In a niche over the door is a 
 statue said to be that of the founder, 
 Bp. Herbert. The Buliop's Palace 
 extends opposite, and was formerly 
 connected with the N. transept by 
 a vaulted passage. It was founded 
 by Bp. Herbert, but almost entirely 
 rebuilt by Bp. Salmon (1299-1325). 
 It still retains some Norm, portions. 
 Bp. Salmon's great hall was de- 
 stroyed after the Civil War ; at which 
 time it was used by the Puritans as 
 a "preaching-house." The chapel, 
 at the E. end of the palace was 
 restored by Bp. Eeynolds in 1662. 
 It contains his own monument, and 
 that of his successor, Bp. Sparrow 
 — both of whom are buried in it. 
 Tlie Bp. of Norwich is titular abbot 
 of St. Bonnet's at Holm. In 1535, 
 during a vacancy of the see. Hen. 
 VIII. severed the ancient barony 
 and revenues from it, and annexed 
 to it the barony and revenues of the 
 abbey of Holm (see Rte. 2), in right 
 of which the Bp. of Norwich sits in 
 the House of Lords as abbot — the 
 abbey having never been dissolved, 
 but only transferred under the statute 
 of 1535, before the general dissolu- 
 tion. Queen Elizabeth, on her visit 
 to Norwich in 1578, lodged in this 
 palace; and Charles II., in 1671, 
 although he was lodged in the 
 Duke's palace, was "nobly enter- 
 tained " here. The king " was sung 
 into tlie cathedral with an anthem ; 
 and when he had ended his devotion 
 at the E. end of the ch., where he 
 kneeled on the hard stone, he went 
 to the bishop's palace." 
 
 On the N. side of the cathedral 
 nave was the Green Yard of the 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boute 1. — Norwicli : St. Ethelhert's Gate. 
 
 207 
 
 monastery, in which was a cross, 
 where sermons were occasionally 
 preached. Here, too, during the 
 festivities of the royal visit, Mer- 
 cury, approaching in a coach, " whicli 
 went so fast that the horses seemed 
 to fly," addressed Queen Elizabeth, 
 who stood at a window of the palace. 
 A fine Perp. gateway (the Bishops 
 Gate), built by Bp. Alnwick, about 
 1-130, forms the principal entrance to 
 the palace. The two gafeicaijs lead- 
 ing into the precincts must here be 
 noticed in detail. The earliest is St. 
 Etlielhert's Gate, at the S. end of the 
 close ; built by the citizens of Nor- 
 wich after the disturbances of 1272. 
 [Long before that date there had 
 been great disturbances between the 
 monks and the citizens, touching 
 the limits and rights of their • re- 
 spective liberties. The franchises 
 granted to the monks, it must be 
 remembered, were of earlier date 
 than those of the city; and as the 
 latter grew, and received fresh char- 
 ters, collision between the rival au- 
 tliorities was frequent. In 1234 the 
 citizens had attacked the convent, 
 and biu'nt part of it. In 1272, the 
 alleged cause being a question of 
 right to the jurisdiction over Tomb- 
 land (the space without Ethelberfs 
 Gate, so called from its having been 
 an ancient cemetery), where a fair was 
 held at certain seasons, the feud 
 between convent and city rose to an 
 extreme pitch, William of Burn- 
 ham, the prior, brought men of 
 Yarmouth — disbanded mercenaries, 
 as it would seem, of the barons who 
 had been defeated at Evesham in 
 1265 — and set them, with his own 
 retainers, on the walls and towers of 
 the convent, whence they shot with 
 arbalists at any citizens within sight. 
 The citizens attacked the monastery, 
 forced the great doors, burnt great 
 part of the ch. and other buildings, 
 and killed some of the monks. The 
 convent itself was plundered. The 
 prior fled to Yarmouth, whence he 
 returned with fresh soldiers, and, 
 
 entering Norwich, retaliated on the 
 citizens and their houses. The Bp., 
 Eoger de Skerning, put the city 
 under an interdict. Henry III., who 
 was at Bury, came thence to Nor- 
 wich, and caused many of the of- 
 fenders to be punished with death, 
 and the woman (see the notice of the 
 riot at Bury St. Edmund's, in 1327, 
 Suffolk, Rte. 3) who first set firo 
 to the convent gates to be burnt. 
 The prior was committed to the Bi- 
 shop's prison, and all the manors and 
 revenues of the convent were seized 
 into the king's hands. The city and 
 its liberties were also seized by the 
 king. The prior volimtarily surren- 
 dered his priory to the bishop ; and 
 on the election of his successor, all 
 the lands of the monastery were 
 restored. The king himself died 
 in the following year ; and in 1274 
 (1st of Ed. I.) matters were arranged 
 between the convent and the city, 
 one of the articles of agreement 
 being that the citizens should pay 
 3000 marks toward the rebuilding 
 of the church. Out of tliis sum, as 
 it appears, St. Ethelberfs Gate was 
 built. The city then recovered its 
 liberties. (The pope's general ab- 
 solution was not received till 1276.) 
 In addition to other causes of ill- 
 feeling, the city and the monks had 
 favoured dilferent sides in the late 
 Barons' War — the monks supporting 
 the barons ; the city, the king. A very 
 similar tumult, arising from simi- 
 lar causes, occurred at Bury St. 
 Edmund's in 1327. For the Nor- 
 wich aft'air, see Bartholomew Cotton, 
 ' Historia Anglicana,' Kolls series 
 (Cotton was a Benedictine of this 
 monastery) ; Blometield ; and a re- 
 markable extract from the ' Liber de 
 Antiq. Legibus ' of London, printed 
 by Mr. Harrod in ' Castles and Con- 
 vents of Norfolk.'] The lower part 
 of St. Ethelberfs Gate is good early 
 Dec. The upper portion, of inter- 
 mixed flint and stone, is modern, 
 and was added early in the present 
 century. The spandrels of the main 
 
208 
 
 Boute 1. — 'Norwich: JErjpingliam Gate, Sect. III. 
 
 arch are filled with foliage, from 
 •which preject the figures of a man 
 Avitli sword and shield, and a drag(ju 
 "which he is attacking. The chamber 
 above the archway served as a chapel 
 of St. Ethclbert, King of E. Anglia, 
 A.D. 793, killed near Hereford, by 
 command of Oifa of Mercia, accord- 
 ing to the 'A.-S. Chronicle.' His 
 shrine was one of the glories of 
 Hereford Cathedral. 
 
 The Erpingham Gate stands op- 
 posite the W. front of the cathedral, 
 and was certainly built by Sir Tho- 
 mas Erpingham (wlio fought at 
 Agincourt, see Erpingham, Kte. 4), 
 but not, as Blomefieid asserted, as 
 a penance for his former patronage 
 of AVicklifte and the Lollards. The 
 truth of this story has been entirely 
 disproved by Mr. Harrod. On the 
 gate are the arms of Sir Thomas, 
 and his two wives (Clopton and 
 Walton). The archway itself is fine, 
 and much enriched with excellent 
 sculpture, chiefly small figiu-es of 
 saints. In the gable above is the 
 kneeling figure of Sir Thomas, under 
 a niche. The gate dates certainly 
 after 1411. 
 
 On the 1., between this gate and 
 the cathedral, is what is now the 
 Grammar School. This was built 
 about 1316 by Bp. Salmon, Ed. 
 II.'s Lord Chancellor, as a charnel- 
 house, with a chai3el of St. John the 
 Evangelist above it. In the crypt, 
 all bones fit for removal were to be 
 deposited " till the day of resur- 
 rection." When the building was 
 secularised in 1548, the bones it 
 contained were removed and buried ; 
 and when, in the reign of Elizabeth, 
 the city obtained possession of it, 
 the grammar school was removed 
 here, from the Black Friars Convent, 
 where it had for some time been 
 established. The crypt deserves a 
 visit. In it were two altars, of 
 which traces remain. At one of 
 them a mass was daily said for the 
 souls of the founder and his family, 
 
 for all bi^s. of the see, and for the 
 souls of all those whose bones were 
 carried thither. The porch by which 
 the grammar school is entered was 
 added by Bp. Lehart (1446-1472). 
 The foiled opening, giving light to 
 the crypt, should be noticed. The 
 school boasts a long roll of distin- 
 guished pupils. Among them are : — 
 Tenison, Abp. of Canterbury ; John 
 Cosin, the famous Bp. of Durham, 
 born in St. Andrew's parish ; James 
 Henry Monk, Bp. of Gloucester 
 Edward Maltby, Bp. of Durham ; 
 Dr. Samuel Clarke ; Lord Nelson ; 
 Sir James Brooke, the late Eajah of 
 Sarawak. And of earlier date : — John 
 Caius, physician to Ed. YI., Mary, 
 and Elizabeth, and founder of Gon- 
 ville and Caius College at Cam- 
 bridge ; Chief Justice Coke ' d. 1634) ; 
 Dr. Edward Brown, physician to 
 Charles II., and son of the well- 
 known Sir Tliomas; and Erasmus 
 Earle, "serjeant-at-law" to Crom- 
 well, and afterwards to Charles II. 
 Among the masters of the school 
 were Dr. Samuel Parr (1778-1785), 
 and Edward Valpy (1811-1829). 
 
 Opijosite the school, on the lawn 
 of the close, is a statue of its most 
 illustrious pupil, Lord Nelson. In 
 " Samson and Hercules " Court, 
 opposite the Erpingham gateway 
 (in Tombland), are figures of those 
 worthies carved in wood, once the 
 decorations of the entrance to a 
 house occupied, temp. Hen. VIL, by 
 the Duchess of Suflblk. 
 
 Norwich possesses more Churches 
 than any other cathedral city in 
 England. ("I wisli," says Fuller, 
 "they may make good use of their 
 many churches, and cross that pesti- 
 lent proverb, ' The nearer the church 
 the farther fi'om God.' "') York has 
 24 (there were 45 before the Refor- 
 mation), but Norwich can still boast 
 of 35, whilst many, as at York, were 
 destroyed after the great change of 
 the 16th century. The Norwich 
 churches are for the most part Perp., 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 BoiUe 1 . — Norwich : Churches, 
 
 209 
 
 ranging from 1350 to 1500. Many 
 have lofty towers, necessary to mark 
 their position in so crowded and 
 densely packed a city. The most 
 interesting are St. Peter's Mancroft, 
 and St. Andrew's ; but some others 
 are worth visiting by the antiquary. 
 
 St. Peter's Mancroft (in the main 
 croft (magna crofta) or field attached 
 to the castle), the finest church in 
 the city (restored in 1860, with open 
 seats, &c.), is veiy good Perp., dating 
 from 1430 to 1455, in which latter 
 year the church was consecrated. 
 The tower, 98 ft. high, is of black 
 flint, inlaid with white stone tracery. 
 Within, the light and lofty arches, 
 with the clerestory above (two win- 
 dows in each bay, above the span- 
 drels of the main arch), are very 
 characteristic of Norfolk Perpen- 
 dicular. There is a rich open roof, 
 springing from shafts with projecting 
 heads at the bases; and between 
 each main arch is a niche. The 
 chancel is shallow, with a large 
 Perp. E. window, filled with ancient 
 stained glass, silvery and beautiful 
 in tone, but damaged by the inser- 
 tion of a bad modern figure of St. 
 Peter. At the W. end of the church 
 is an indifferent picture, by Calton, a 
 native artist, representing the delivery 
 of St. Peter from prison. In the 
 chancel is a brass for Peter Rede, d. 
 1568, who " worthily served the 
 Emperor Charles V. at the conquest 
 of Barbaria, and had geven him by 
 the sayd Emperor for his valiant 
 deeds, the order of Barbaria. " Here 
 is also a monument, with bust, for 
 Judge Windham (d. 1592); and 
 tablets on each side of the eastern- 
 most bay for Sir Thomas Broivne 
 and his wife. Sir Thomas (born in 
 London, 1605 ; settled in Norwich, 
 1636; knighted by Charles II., 1671 ; 
 died 1682), author of the 'Religio 
 Medici,' 'Vulgar Errors,' and other 
 remarkable works, is a worthy of 
 whom Norwich is reasonably proud. 
 (The best edition of his works is 
 
 that by Simon Wilkin, 4 vols., 1836. 
 Wilkin was long resident as a book- 
 seller in this parish. Southey pro- 
 nounced his ' Browne's Works ' to 
 be the "best edited book in the 
 Euglis<h language.") The actual 
 position of his grave was unknown 
 until, in 1840, in digging a grave, the 
 labourer's pickaxe struck upon, and 
 exposed, his coffin-plate. The bones 
 were perfect. They were respect- 
 fully treated, and quickly reinterred. 
 (The inscription on the colfin-plate 
 partly ran, " Amplissitnus Vir . . . 
 Thos. Browne . . . hoc loculo indor- 
 miens, corporis sphagii-ice pulvere 
 plumbum in aurumconvertit. ') Oppo- 
 site is the tablet of his wife Dorothy 
 (whose indifferently spelt postscripts, 
 with their references to " dear 
 Tome's briches," and similar matters 
 of domestic interest, frequently wind 
 up the letters of Sir Thomas to his 
 sons; see Wilkin's edition). She 
 was the daugliter of Edward IMile- 
 ham, of Burlingham, in Norfolk, 
 and survived her husband two 
 years. The verses on her tablet 
 were probably written by her eldest 
 son, Edward, who became president 
 of the College of Physicians, and 
 physician to Charles II, In the 
 vestry (which is original, and behind 
 the altar, as at Hawkhurst, Kent 
 Crewkerne, Somersetshire ; and else- 
 where) hangs a portrait of Sir 
 Thomas Browne (there is a better 
 portrait in the Bodleian at Oxford), 
 given to the parish by Dr. Howman, 
 who, when Blomefield wrote, occu- 
 pied the house in which Sir Thomas 
 lived for some time, and in which 
 he died. (The site is now occupied 
 by the Savings' Bank, at the S.E. 
 corner of Haymarket-square, close 
 to the church. The old house con- 
 tained a fine chimney-piece, removed 
 to Blickling. Evelyn visited Sir 
 Thomas Browne in this house, which 
 he describes as "a paradise and a 
 cabinet of rarities, and that of tho 
 best collections, especially medals, 
 books, plants, and natural things.") 
 
210 
 
 Boiite 1. — Norwich: Cliurches, 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 There arc also in the vestry a 
 sculptured group of female saints in 
 alabaster, and some MSS., a Bible, 
 date about 1340, and an earlier MS. 
 of St. Paul's Epistles. At each 
 corner of the vestry are stairs by 
 which the turrets at the cast end of 
 the church may be ascended. 
 
 During the late restoration of St. 
 Peter's Church, a singular arrange- 
 ment was discovered beneath the 
 floor of the chancel, in front of the 
 place formerly occupied by the stalls. 
 A trough, about 3 ft. deep and 3 ft. 
 wide, was found to extend from end 
 to end of the chancel, on either side. 
 In the walls of this trough were 
 placed horizontally, and at equal 
 distance between the base and the 
 surface, short pitchers, bedded in 
 mortar; the mouth of each pitcher 
 (of glazed pottery with fluted bands) 
 being open to the trough. A similar 
 arrangement has been found beneath 
 the chancel of St. Peter's, Mounter- 
 gate, another Norwich church : and 
 there can be no doubt that in both 
 cases the trough and pitchers were 
 intended to assist in the distribu- 
 tion of sound. A pitcher seems to 
 have been placed beneath (or in 
 front of) each stall. Urns or pitchers 
 of the same character were dis- 
 covered by Mr. AValbran beneath 
 the chancel floor of Fountains Abbey 
 in Yorkshire. 
 
 >S'^. Andreiv^ s,Broad Street, is a Perp. 
 church of the usual Norfolk type, 
 with a good, but not very rich, roof. 
 (The ch. dates from 15UG, according 
 to some lines above the S. door, 
 placed therein 1547 : — 
 
 " This church was builded of timber, stone, 
 
 and bricks, 
 In tlie year of our Lord God xv hundred and 
 
 six, 
 And lately translated from extreme idolatry, 
 A thousand, five hundred, seven and fortie. 
 And in the first year of our noble King 
 
 Edward, 
 The Gospel in Parliament was mightily set 
 
 forward." 
 
 There are some other lines, in praise 
 of (^. Elizabeth, over the N. door. 
 
 The tower had been rebuilt in 1478.) 
 Tlie body of the ch. has been re- 
 stored. There are a modern stone 
 pulijit, good open seats, and a stained- 
 glass E. window of some pretensions. 
 The ch. contains memorials of the 
 Sucklings, including a very elabo- 
 rate monument to the father and 
 mother of the poet, with effigies, 
 and rich in all the fantastic conceits 
 of the early Stuart period. (Sir John 
 Suckling, father of the poet, was 
 secretary, comptroller, and privy 
 councillor to James 1. His wife was 
 a sister of Lionel Cranfield, the 
 London merchant who became Earl of 
 Middlesex.) The inscriptions illus- 
 trating the various devices are in 
 English, Latin, French, Italian, and 
 Si^anish. This monument was erected 
 by Sir John Suckling himself 
 (although his own effigy lies on it's 
 after the death of his wife in 1613. 
 In the ch. are brasses for John 
 Gilbert, citizen, and wife, 14G7 ; 
 and Robert Gardiner, 4 times mayor, 
 and wife, 1508. (A little N.E. of 
 this church is an old house, worth 
 notice. On the portal is the mer- 
 chant's mark of Jolfti Clarke, mayor 
 of Norwich, 1515 and 1520.) 
 
 St. Gregory, in Pottergate, is a 
 good Perp. church, of flint masonry, 
 date before 1386. Its altar stands 
 on an archway, over the churchyard, 
 which is a thoroughfare. The ch. 
 contains a curious embroidered black 
 pall (worked with angels, carrying 
 small figures, probably souls ; below 
 each angel is a dolphin swallowing a 
 smaller fish), an altar-cloth made out 
 of a velvet cope, and a good brass 
 lectern, 1496. Across the W. tower 
 (Perp.) extends an original stone 
 gallery for the ringers, with groined 
 vaults above and beneath it. 
 
 St. Giles's, St. Giles's-street, is a 
 fine Perp. ch., on high ground, with 
 a tower, 120 ft. high, built in the 
 reign of Richard II. There is a 
 good open wood roof, besides several 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boiiie l.'^Noi'imc'h: ClmrcJies, 
 
 211 
 
 brasses, the principal for Eobert 
 Baxter, d. 1432, and Richard Pur- 
 daunce, 143G, both mayors of Nor- 
 wich. The church has been well 
 restored, and partly rebuilt. The 
 late flowing window tracery is notice- 
 able. Flowing forms seem to have 
 been retained in this part of England 
 after the true Perpendicular had been 
 well established elsewhere. 
 
 St. Helens, Bishopgate, is now 
 attached to St. Giles's Hospital, and 
 desecrated, except a part in the 
 centre; the nave being converted 
 into almshouses for men, and tlie 
 chancel, date about 1383, divided 
 into wards for the women. St. Giles's 
 Hospital was founded by Walter 
 Suffield, Bishop of Norwich (1245- 
 1257 j, as an asylum for the aged -and 
 infirm clergy of the diocese, and for 
 the support of 13 aged poor. At the 
 Dissolution, the hospital and its 
 revenues passed into the hands of 
 the crown. It was reorganised as an 
 almshouse by Edward VI. ; other 
 lands and bequests afterwards in- 
 creased its revenues, which are now 
 very large (7000Z. a year) ; 200 old 
 men and women are now supported 
 here. The cloisters of tlie old hospital 
 remain perfect. (The doorway bears 
 the arms of Prior Molet, 1453.) >S'^. 
 Helens, which seems to have served 
 as the ch. of the hospital, was partly 
 (the nave) built by Bishop Lehart, in 
 1451 ; the chancel is earlier. The 
 Perp. tower remains entire ; and the 
 vault of the S. transept has some 
 richly carved bosses. 
 
 St. John the Baptist's, Madder 
 Market, is a good Perp. ch. without 
 chancel. The E. window, of a good 
 and noticeable design, is earlier than 
 any other in the ch. It has been 
 suggested that a chancel formerly 
 extended across the street ; and that 
 on its removal the window was 
 placed in its present position. The 
 ceilings over the E. ends of the 
 aisles retain their original painting, 
 
 very curious. The roof of All Saints' 
 chapel, at the E. end of the N. aisle, 
 displays angels holding labels, with 
 sentences from the Te Deum; and 
 the name " Jesus " within a crown of 
 thorns. St. Mary's chapel in the S. 
 aisle has angels bearing the " Ave 
 Maria" and the name "Maria," 
 crowned. The ch. contains 9 brasses, 
 the two most important of which 
 are for John Terry, merchant, d. 
 1524, and wife; and John Marsham, 
 mayor, and wife, d. 1525; Here was 
 buried (1563) Margaret, Duchess 
 of Norfolk, daughter of Lord Audley, 
 (see Audley Endy Essex, Rte. 11), 
 and 2nd wife of the Duke of Norfolk, 
 beheaded by Q. Elizabeth. (The 
 Duke's palace, now the Museum (see 
 ante) was in this parish, and not far 
 from the ch.) St. John's has a good 
 N. porch, with vaulted Perp. roof. 
 Here and there arc fragments of 
 painted glass, all left by the Puritan 
 destroyers of 1643. 
 
 Several of the other churches will 
 reward the antiquary, who will find 
 handsome fonts in All Saints (Perp., 
 but the figures have been " restored ' 
 and re-cut), St. James's (Perp., with 
 carved figures), and St. Clement's 
 (very good Perp.). 
 
 St. Su'ithin's has some Norm, por- 
 tions, and a carved roof. 
 
 St. Miles', or Michael's, Coslany, 
 "may be noticed as a particularly 
 fine example of Norfolk construction, 
 in flint and ashlar. The tracery, 
 mouldings, and other ornaments are 
 cut in stone, and the intermediate 
 parts filled in with flint — all brought 
 up to one surface. The exterior of 
 the Thorpe Chapel is thus remark- 
 ably well and minutely executed, 
 and produces a curious effect. This 
 portion of the building is Perp. 
 There are older parts in the E. Eng. 
 style." — Bickman. (The short south 
 aisle or chapel, thus worked in flint, 
 is undoubtedly good ; but much finer 
 examples will be found in other 
 churches of Norfolk and Suffolk.) 
 
212 
 
 Boiife 1. — Norwich: Walls and Gates. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 The name of Coslamj is said to be 
 a corruption of Coste-lane — a passage 
 by the side or coast of the water. 
 That of St. Martin-at-Oah is derived 
 from an oak tree which stood near 
 the church, and before the Refor- 
 mation enclosed among its branches 
 a celebrated image of the Virgin. 
 
 St. Micliael-at-Plea is so called 
 from the court or plea of the arch- 
 deacon held in this church. It con- 
 tains some ancient paintings on panel. 
 
 " The churches of >S'^. Bennet, St. 
 Etheldred, St. Mary Coslamj, St. 
 Paul's, and St. Julian have round 
 towers; the two latter have Norm, 
 portions still remaining, but the 
 original openings of these towers 
 have been so disturbed that it is not 
 possible to assign a date with cer- 
 tainty." — Hickman. 
 
 Of the city walls and gates some 
 fragments remain, though none of 
 much importance. Near St. Martin's 
 Gate (of which portions remain) is 
 one of the 40 towers with which the 
 walls were strengthened. Near Car- 
 row Bridge is the " Devil's Tower," 
 one of tlie ''Boom towers" which 
 guarded the ascent of the river. An- 
 other, called the " Cow's . Tower,'' 
 from a story that a cow once climbed 
 up its stairs, stands at an angle of 
 the meadows beh^iging to St. Giles's 
 Hospital, above Bisliopgate Bridge. 
 
 One important public institution 
 should here be mentioned. The 
 Norfolk and Norwich Ho^2^ital stands 
 in the Newmarket Road, a little be- 
 yond the city. It was founded in 
 1770, one of only 14 county hospitals 
 which then existed. It is a very 
 large and well-arranged building ; 
 and many eminent surgeons and phy- 
 sicians have served from time to 
 time on its medical staff. The pro- 
 ceeds of the Norwich Musical Fes- 
 tival arc applied in aid of this hos- 
 pital. 
 
 The best general view of Norwich 
 is to be obtained from Mousehold 
 Heath — the high ground rising from 
 the left bank of the Wensum, E. of 
 the city. It may be reached by pass- 
 ing down Bishopgate-street, E. of 
 the cathedral, and crossing the river 
 by Bishop's Bridge, built in 1295 by 
 the Prior of Norwich. (A hermit, 
 always nominated by the Prior, 
 lived near the gates of this bridge.) 
 After crossing the bridge, rt., at the 
 foot of a height, once crowned by St. 
 Leonard's Priory (a cell attached to 
 the Benedictine Priory of Norwich : 
 its church was famous for an image 
 of Hen. VI., "much visited by pil- 
 grims ") is the Lollards Fit, marked 
 by white chalk cuttings, where many 
 Protestants suffered during the epis- 
 copate of Bishop Nix, temp. Hen. 
 Vlir. ; and, afterwards, in the reign 
 of Mary, when, says Fuller (' Ch. 
 Hist.'), "Bishop Hopton was un- 
 merciful in his visitations; but 
 Downing the chancellor played the 
 Devil himself, enough to make wood 
 dear in these parts, so many did he 
 consume to ashes" (9 or 10 persons 
 were burnt here ). Thomas Bilney ( see 
 ante, the Guildhall) was burnt on this 
 spot. On Mousehold (said to be a 
 corruption of " much-holt," the great 
 wood; Heath itself was a house (partly 
 occupying the site of St. Leonard's 
 Priory, granted to the Duke of 
 Norfolk at the dissolution) belong- 
 ing to Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, 
 the gallant knight and poet: but 
 the heath is especially noticeable as 
 the place where the rebels under 
 Kett encamped in 1549. The ruined 
 walls o{ Kelt's Castle, now surrounded 
 by gasAVorks, were part of a fortilica- 
 tion then erected. The story of " the 
 rising in Norfolk," which is of sufli- 
 cient interest and importance to be 
 told here at some length, will best 
 be read in Fronde's ' Hist. Eng.,' vol. 
 V. ch. 26 (whence the following 
 paragraphs within inverted commas 
 are extracted. A longer and more 
 iiiinute account will be found iu 
 
iTORFOLK. 
 
 Boide 1. — Norwich: Kelt's Castle. 
 
 213 
 
 Blomeficld's 'Norfolk;' and 'Kett's 
 Eebellion/ by the Kev. F. W. 
 
 Eussell (London), is very full. It is 
 founded on the *' de furoribus Nor- 
 folcensium " of Nevylle, — but is 
 supplemented by documents from 
 the State Paper and Record Offices). 
 The Norfolk rising differed to some 
 extent from the simultaneous move- 
 ment in Devonshire, in which the 
 restoration of the " old religion " 
 was made to api^ear more promin- 
 ently. The oppressive conduct of 
 the nobles, added to the enclosures 
 of the common lands, were the great 
 grievances of the men of Norfolk, 
 and there had been many warnings 
 of the discontent throughout the 
 county. In 1536, the disturbed state 
 of Lincolnshire and the North be- 
 came known in Norfolk; and in the 
 following year. Sir Nicholas Myle- 
 ham, canon and sub-prior ofWalsing- 
 ham, with some others, attempted a 
 rising — but it was quickly suppressed, 
 and the ringleaders executed at Nor- 
 wich. Again, one John Walker of 
 Griston, tried to excite the people, — 
 saying, at S waff ham, that " Yt were 
 a good thinge yf ther were so many 
 jentylmen in Norffolke as there be 
 whyt bulles." July 6, 1549 (four days 
 after the commencement of the siege 
 of Exeter), there was a great gathering 
 at the fair of Wymondham, 9 m. from 
 Norwich (see Ete. 6). "The crowd 
 was large, and the men who were 
 brought together found themselves 
 possessed with one general feeling — 
 a feeling of burning indignation at 
 the un-English conduct of the gentle- 
 men. The peasant whose pigs and 
 cow and poultry had been sold or 
 had died, because the commons had 
 gone where they had fed ; the 
 yeoman dispossessed of his farm ; the 
 farm servant out of employ, because, 
 where ten ploughs had turned the 
 soil, one shepherd now watched the 
 grazing of the flocks; the artizan 
 smarting under the famine prices 
 which the change of culture had 
 brought with it — all these were 
 
 united in suffering, while the gentle- 
 men were doubling, trebling, quad- 
 rupling their incomes with their 
 sheep farms, and adorning their per- 
 sons and their houses with splendour 
 hitherto unknown." A rising was 
 accordingly determined on. Eohert 
 Kctt, a tanner of Wymondham (but 
 a man of some property and stand- 
 ing, see Wymondham, Ete. 6), took 
 the lead, and established his central 
 camp on Household Hill, where 
 "gradually as many as 16,000 men 
 collected about him in a camp of 
 turf huts, roofed with boughs. In 
 the middle of the common stood a 
 large oak-tree, where Kett sate daily 
 to administer justice ; and there, day 
 after day, the offending country gen- 
 tlemen were brought up for trial, 
 charged with robbing the poor." 
 Those found guilty were imprisoned 
 in the camp ; but the tribunal was 
 not a bloody one, and Kett allowed no 
 murdering. About property he was 
 not so scrupulous. In virtue of a war- 
 rant with Ketts signature, the country 
 houses over the whole neighbour- 
 hood were entered. " Not only were 
 sheep, cows, and poultry driven off, 
 but guns, swords, pikes, lances, bows, 
 were taken possession of in the name 
 of the people. A common stock was 
 formed at Household, where the 
 spoil w^as distributed ; and to make 
 up for past wants, they provided 
 themselves, in the way of diet, so 
 abundantly that, in the time which 
 the camp lasted, 20,000 sheep were 
 consumed there, with ' infinite beefs,* 
 swans, hinds, ducks, capons, pigs, 
 and venison." Chaplains were ap- 
 pointed who regularly read the 
 morning and evening services ; and 
 on an oak-tree, called " The Oak of 
 Eeformation," a pulpit was placed, 
 where the clergy of the neighbour- 
 hood (among them Hatthew Parker, 
 afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury) 
 frequently came, and were allowed 
 to lecture the people on submission. 
 
 For several weeks the insurgents 
 remained unmolested on Household. 
 
2l4 
 
 Hoide 1. — Nwidch: Keiths BebelUon. Sect. lit. 
 
 The city of Norwicli was open to 
 them; and the mayor himself, partly 
 by compulsion, had sate with Kett a 
 joint assessor under the oak. On 
 July 31, a herald from the Council 
 appeared at the oak, promising a free 
 and entire pardon, without exception, 
 if the people would at once depart to 
 their houses. Kett declared that 
 " pardon " was for offenders, and they 
 were good servants of the common- 
 wealth. The herald offered to arrest 
 him as a traitor; an uproar uprose, 
 and the mayor and herald*drew ofi" 
 into Norwich, the gates of which 
 were at once closed. The next 
 morning the city was assaulted by 
 the insurgents. " So fierce and reso- 
 lute the people were that boys and 
 3'oung lads pulled the arrows out of 
 their flesh when wounded, and gave 
 them to their own archers to return 
 upon the citizens." A storming party 
 at last made their way through the 
 river and over a weak spot in the 
 walls, and the town was taken. The 
 guns and ammunition were carried 
 off to the camp, but no plunder was 
 allowed. In the mean time Lord 
 Northampton, with several members 
 of the Privy Council, were sent into 
 Norfolk. Their force was composed 
 of the personal retinues of the lords 
 and gentlemen, with a company of 
 Italians. " Northampton took the 
 command of the town, and the gates 
 were again closed. The next morn- 
 ing the fighting recommenced, the 
 Italians being first engaged, and an 
 Italian officer being taken prisoner, 
 with the same national hatred of 
 foreigners which appeared in Devon- 
 shire, he was carried up to Mouse- 
 hold, stripped naked, and hung." 
 Tlie insurgents again stormed the 
 city. " A hundred and forty fell 
 dead on the ramparts, and then Kett 
 forced his way into Norwich a 
 second time victorious. Sheffield 
 was killed, Cornwallis was taken, 
 Northampton and his other com- 
 panions tied for their lives." (The 
 fight took place at the base of the 
 
 hill, on St. Martin's plain. A stone 
 in commemoration of Lord Sheffield's 
 death remains near the spot.) The 
 Council now sent directions to the 
 Earl of Warwick, who was on his 
 way to the North, to proceed at once 
 with his troops to Norwich. On the 
 23rd of August he was before the 
 gates, and again offered the insur- 
 gents a free pardon, with an intima- 
 tion that it was for the last time." 
 It would have been accepted had it 
 not been for an accident which cre- 
 ated a suspicion of treachery, where- 
 upon the rebels resolved to fight it 
 out. The gates were blown open, 
 and Warwick advanced into the 
 market - place, where he hanged 60 
 prisoners on the .spot. The insur- 
 gents, however, making the cii'cuit 
 of the walls, intercepted the ammu- 
 nition waggons in the rear, and 
 carried them off to Mousehold. The 
 situation of Warwick was so immi- 
 nently perilous that "he and the 
 other knights and gentlemen drew 
 their swords and kissed each other's 
 blades, ' according to ancient custom 
 used among men of war in times 
 of great danger.'" But the rebels 
 did not follow up their success; 
 the German and Italian mercenaries, 
 who had been ordered to follow 
 Warwick, came up, and secured 
 his safety. He immediately cut 
 off the supplies from the rebel 
 camp ; and on the 27th Aug. the 
 whole body, perhaps 15,000 strong, 
 broke up from Mousehold, set fire 
 to their cabins, and covered by the 
 smoke, came down from the high 
 ground into Dussindale, relying, it 
 was said, on a fantastic prophecy — • 
 
 " The conntry gruffs, Hob, Dick, and Hick, 
 AViih clubs and clouted sboon, 
 Shall fill up Dussindale with blood 
 Of slaughtered bodies soon." 
 
 (Dussindale was the name by which 
 the low ground toward Wymondham 
 was formerly known.) Here, close 
 before the city, they offered battle, 
 but had no chance of victory for a 
 
Norfolk. JRoutel. — Nwwich: Manufactures. 
 
 215 
 
 single moment. " The sustained fire 
 of the lanzknechts threw their dense 
 and unorganised masses into rapid 
 confusion." Warwick's horse were 
 soon in the midst of them, and the 
 flight instantly became general. " For 
 three miles the rebels strewed Dussin- 
 dale with their bodies. 3500 were 
 cut down." A few who stood their 
 ground surrendered as prisoners, 
 and theh.' lives were sjDared, The 
 two Ketts, Eobert and his brotlier 
 "William, were soon after taken and 
 sent to London to be examined 
 by the Council. (Robert Kctt was 
 found hiding under a cart in a barn 
 at Swanuington, 8 m. from Nor- 
 wich. Thomas Audley carried him 
 to London, and secured a reward 
 of 50?. for that service. Afterwards, 
 all Kett's manors, lands, goods, and 
 chattels, were granted to Audley.) 8 
 or 9 of the rebels were hanged on 
 the Oak of Eeformation ; and in the 
 autumn the Ketts were sent back 
 to Norfolk for punishment. " Eobert 
 was hung in chains on Norwich 
 Castle ; William on the ch. tower 
 at Wymondham. So ended the 
 Norfolk rebellion, remarkable among 
 other things for the order which 
 was observed among the people 
 during their seven weeks of lawless- 
 ness." 
 
 Manufactures.— l^ovyjich. was per- 
 haps the earliest, and long the most 
 flourishing, seat of the manufactm'e 
 of w^orsted, so called from the village 
 «of Worstead, on the E. side of Norfolk, 
 where it was first planted (see Ete. 
 3). It is supposed to have been 
 brought over by Flemish refugees, 
 driven from their own country by a 
 great inundation of the sea in the 
 reign of Henry I. Be this as it may, 
 the trade and branches connected 
 with it existed in the reign of 
 Edward II., and were greatly ad- 
 vanced by the policy of Edward III., 
 who invited more Flemings, expert 
 in their craft, to settle in England 
 in 1336. They established them- 
 
 selves principally in Norfolk, Suffolk, 
 and Essex. "It is evident that 
 Edward and his queen took a great 
 personal interest in the manufiicture, 
 for they frequently visited Norwich, 
 where most of the queen's country- 
 men lived. The weavers, however, 
 were looked on with much jealousy, 
 and were often ill-treated; and the 
 king, therefore, took them under his 
 special protection (Eymer, iii. 23.)" — 
 Longman's Ed. III. i. 87. Norwich 
 had already, earlier in the reign, 
 been made a staple place for the 
 sale of woollen goods, and the trade 
 flourished so rapidly that, in the 
 reign of Henry VIII., the value of 
 the stuffs made in one year has been 
 calculated at 100,000?., besides stock- 
 ings valued at 60,000?. These articles 
 were then exported to the very 
 countries whence the manufacture 
 had been originally derived. Eliza- 
 beth gave a fresh impulse to the 
 trade by offering an asylum to the 
 persecuted Netherlanders expelled 
 by Alva from the Low Coimtries — 
 an act of which the principal credit 
 is due to the Duke of Norfolk, 
 who tendered the advice — and de- 
 frayed the expenses of transport- 
 ing the artificers. In 1571 nearly 
 4000 refugees had established them- 
 selves here, and in 1575 the Dutch 
 settlers first invented and brought 
 forward the stuff* called bombasine, 
 which long continued the staple com- 
 modity of Norwich. During the rule 
 of Sir Eobt, Walpole, and through 
 his influence, the use of Norwich 
 crapes (a silk and worsted fabric 
 which had not long been invented) 
 for public mournings was always 
 ordered in the ' Gazette.' The wor- 
 sted trade of Norwich has for many 
 years been declining, and is now so 
 completely supplanted by Bradford, 
 Halifax, and Leeds, that the chief 
 supply of worsted yarn is furnished 
 to Norwich from Yorkshire, instead 
 of being spun at home. Indeed it is 
 scarcely possible to contend against 
 a rival so fortunately situated with 
 
216 
 
 Boiite 1. — Nonoich: Manufactures. Sect. III. 
 
 regard to supplies of coal and water 
 power ; and it seems as if before long 
 this trade of the eastern counties 
 would be entirely swallowed up by 
 Lancashire and Yorkshire. 
 
 The articles at present made at 
 Norwich consist of bombasines and 
 similar stufts, crapes, camlets, other 
 fabrics of worsted, mohair, and silk, 
 besides cotton shawls. The most 
 extensive crape manufactories in the 
 kingdom are those of the Messrs. 
 Grout, who possess two at Norwich 
 and one iu the neighbourhood of 
 Bungay. The staple trade of Norwich 
 is now boot and shoe making, which 
 has increased as the worsted manu- 
 facture has declined. Brushes and 
 tobacco are also sent hence in large 
 quantities. There are large oil-cake 
 factories, and at Carrow, just beyond 
 the city, on the banks of the Wen- 
 sum, are the very extensive works of 
 the Messrs. Colman, whose mustard, 
 starch, &c., are famous all over the 
 world. The buildings cover many 
 acres, and about 1100 hands are em- 
 ployed. Sixteen steam engines are 
 daily at work, with a force amount- 
 ing to 1000 horse power. Kitchens, 
 dining halls, and school-rooms are 
 provided for the workmen and their 
 children. 
 
 The banks of the Yare were early 
 celebrated for the growth of vege- 
 tables. Drayton, not to be deterred 
 by the prosaic character of a market 
 garden, has recorded their fertility in 
 verse. 
 
 "The Colewort, Colyflowcr, and Cabbage in 
 their season, 
 
 The RouncefiiU, great Beans, and early- 
 ripening Peaseon ; 
 
 The Onion, Scallion, Leek, wliich liousewives 
 highly rate ; 
 
 Their kinsman Garlic then, the poor man's 
 Mithridate ; 
 
 The savoury Parsnip next, and Carrot, pleas- 
 ing food ; 
 
 The Skirret, which, some say, in salads stirs 
 the blood; 
 
 The Turnip, tasting well to clowns in winter 
 weather : 
 
 Thus in our verse we put roots, herbs, and 
 fruits together." 
 
 It may also be mentioned that 
 the swans, \vhich are still numerous 
 on the Y''are and the Wensum (in 
 1672 the city had 72 swans belonging 
 to their three "swan marks," — a 
 "swanner" was paid for looking 
 after tliem), were in much favour 
 with ancient gastronomers ; and that 
 at present, as it is said, a Norwich 
 swan is yearly presented to the pope 
 by one of his most faithful sons. 
 "Sygnete rested" occurs frequently 
 in early bills of fare. An experi- 
 ment in the matter may be recom- 
 mended to those earnest inquirers 
 who 
 
 " Judicious drink, and greatly daring, dine." 
 
 They may also make trial — if such 
 experiment be still possible— of the 
 fish recorded in Spenser's verses — 
 
 'Him foUow'd Yar, soft washing Norwich 
 wall, 
 And with him brought a present joyfully 
 Of his owne fish unto their Festivall, 
 Whose like none else could shew, the which 
 they ruffiris call." 
 
 ' Faerie Queene,' b. iv. c. ii. 
 
 Norwich boasts a long list of dis- 
 tinguished natives. Besides those 
 already mentioned, among the most 
 noticeable are: — John Cosin, Bp. of 
 Dm-ham (1660-1671) born here in 
 1595. Mattliew Parker, Archbp, of 
 Canterbury (1559-1575). Tlie monu- 
 ment of his father and mother, re- 
 built in 1823, at the cost of C. C. C. 
 Cambridge, exists in the ch.-yd. of 
 St. Clement's. John Kay or ' Caius,' 
 founder of Caius College, Cambridge 
 (see Cambridge for an account of him). 
 Maurice Greene, the dramatist. Ed- 
 ward King, the antiquary, author of 
 ' Mmiimenta Antiqua,' b. 1734. Beloe, 
 the translator of Herodotus. Sir John 
 Fenn, editor of the ' Fasten Letters.' 
 Feter Barlowe, the mathematician, 
 b. 1776. Dr. Crotch, Frofessor of 
 Music at Oxford, b. 1775. Crome, 
 the artist, b. 1769, d. 1821, whose 
 local landscapes are well known, and 
 
KorwroLK. Boute 1. — ^onoich : Celebrities; Neiglibourliood. 217 
 
 are of great excellence. He was the 
 founder of the Norwich Society of 
 Artists, and is buried in the cli. of 
 St. George's, Colegate. Lnke Han- 
 sard, the himous printer of the Parlia- 
 mentary Debates, b. 1752, d. 1828 
 (he had printed the debates since 
 3772). The two Wilkins, architects, 
 of whom the younger was author of 
 ' Magna Grjecia,' and many other 
 works. James Hook, father of Theo- 
 dore Hook, and the Dean of Wor- 
 cester. Simon Wilkin, printer and 
 bookseller, and editor of Sir Thomas 
 Browne's works (see ante). Mrs. 
 Opie, the authoress, daughter of 
 James Alderson, M.D. ; she was born 
 17G9, and died at Norwich 1853. Mrs. 
 Opie, in early life, was described by 
 Sir James Mackintosh as the " rising 
 genius " of a very brilliant literary 
 circle which existed in Norwich to- 
 ward the end of the last centuiy, and 
 in which members of the Taylor 
 and Martineau families were conspi- 
 cuous. Both families had been settled 
 in Norwich for some generations. 
 Dr. John Taylor, who died in 1761, 
 was for many years minister of the 
 Unitarian chapel at Norwich. His 
 grandsons, John, Kichard, and Ed- 
 ward, have all been distinguished, 
 and the name of their accomplished 
 sister, Mrs. Austen, is even better 
 known. To this family belongs Mr. 
 Eichard Taylor, author of the ' Index 
 Monasticus,' of whom the Duke of 
 Sussex said that, whereas " elsewhere 
 it takes nine tailors to make a man, 
 in Norwich it takes nine men to make 
 a Taylor." Mr. William Taylor, 
 whose reputation as author of ' Eng- 
 lish Synonyms,' and an ' Historic 
 Survey of German Poetry,' was also 
 considerable, and whose religious 
 vagaries were unusually wonderful, 
 was bom in Norwich, 1765, and died 
 1836. Miss Harriet Martineau was 
 also born here, as were other distin- 
 guished members of her family. Last, 
 but not least, are to be mentioned 
 three of the most eminent English 
 botanists. Dr. Lindley, the late Sir 
 
 William Hooker, and Sir James 
 Smith, are all claimed by Norwich, " a 
 city of gardens," as it has been called ; 
 to whicli, says Fuller, " the Dutch 
 brought not only their profitable 
 crafts but pleasurable curiosities, 
 being the first who advanced the use 
 and reputation of flowers here. Great 
 is the art of meliorating them," he 
 continues, "and the Kose of Eoses 
 (Eosa Mundi) had its first being in 
 this city." Perhaps the most learned 
 florist would at this day be unable 
 to determhie what is the true " Eosa 
 Mundi." 
 
 Of the villages within a walk of 
 Norwich, the most noticeable are 
 Thorpe, EarlJiam, Heigliam, and 
 Carrow. Thorpe, on the Wensum, 
 IJ m. from the Thorpe rly. stat., is a 
 pleasant village, in which the bishops 
 of Norwich had a manor-house (now 
 known as Thorpe Old Hall), close 
 to the river bank. Some remains of 
 the desecrated chapel exist. Thorpe 
 Clim-ch is of httle interest. The road 
 between Norwich and Thorpe is lined 
 with pleasant villas, and the pictu- 
 resquely broken country on the left, 
 which affords some good views of the 
 city and the surrounding country, is 
 in parts well wooded. The whole of 
 these hills was anciently c^'ered by 
 a thick forest ; and it was here that, 
 according to the story, Eilward, a 
 burgess of Norwich, coming sud- 
 denly on the Jews about to bury the 
 boy, St. William, whom they had 
 crucified (see ante, the Cathedral), 
 compelled them to fly in all haste, 
 carrying with them the body, which 
 they hung on a tree in the thickest 
 part of the wood. There it was 
 afterwards found, and a chapel was 
 built on the spot, called " St. Wil- 
 liam's in the Wood" ('Nov. Leg. 
 Anglise,' in Blomefield. The chapel 
 stood on what is now Mousehold 
 Heath, about 1 m. from the hamlet 
 of Pokethorpe. It was much fre- 
 quented by pilgrims.) 
 
 Earlham lies on the Yare, 2i m. 
 
218 
 
 Boute 1. — Seigham — Carrow. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 W. of Norwich, ou the road to 
 Hingham. Earlham Hall was for 
 more than a century the seat of a 
 branch of the Bacon family, descended 
 from Edward Bacon, a son of tlie 
 great Lord Keeper. It has been 
 many times rebuilt, and is now 
 chiefly noticeable as the principal 
 scat of the Gurneys, and as the birtli- 
 place of Elizabeth Fry and her 
 brother, Joseph Jolni Gumcy. Mrs. 
 Fry is well known for her many 
 labours of love in English prisons, 
 and indeed wherever such labours 
 were most needed. The life of J. J. 
 Gm-ney was not less spent in •' doing 
 good." His acquirements as a man 
 of letters were considerable; and a 
 very distinguished circle, including 
 Wilberforce, Buxton, Chalmers, 
 Clarkson, and many others, was fre- 
 quently assembled at Earlham. On 
 Mr. Gurney's death, in 1847, his 
 funeral was attended by representa- 
 tives of every class and religious 
 communion in Norwich ; and a ser- 
 mon was preached in the catiiedral 
 by Bishop Stanley — a tribute of re- 
 spect probably unexampled in the 
 history of dissent. Earlham is a 
 place of no very imi30sing size, but 
 the grounds slope pleasantly to the 
 river. ^ 
 
 Ileigham is IJ m. N.W. of Norwich, 
 on the Wensum. The manor, before 
 the Dissolution, belonged to the abbot 
 of St. Bennet's at Holm (seeKte. 2) ; 
 and it passed afterwards to the 
 bishops of Norwich, as representatives 
 of the abbot (see ante). It was here 
 that the excellent Joseph Hall, suc- 
 cessively Bp. of Exeter and Norwich, 
 retired after the Puritans had driven 
 him, in 1647, from the palace at 
 Norwich; and here, in the house 
 now known as the " Dolphin Inn," 
 that he died in 1656, aged 82. This 
 house has the dates 1587 and 1615 
 on its front (though portions are no 
 doubt earlier), and retains its ancient 
 character. In Heigham Ch. is the 
 monument of Bp. HaU. (buried in the 
 
 chancel), marked by a skeleton figure 
 of Death. At the foot are the words, 
 " Josephus Hallus olim hurailis Ec- 
 clesiaj servus." " Bp. Hall is laiown 
 as well for his autobiographical and 
 devotional works as for his Satires, 
 published in 1597, and although 
 harsh and rugged, still deserving of 
 much regard." — Hallam. The future 
 bp. claimed the distinction of being 
 the earliest English satirist — 
 
 " I first adventure, follow me who list, 
 And be the second English satyrist." 
 
 But, as Hallam points out, he had 
 been anticipated, " m a general sense 
 of satire," by George 'Gascoyn, wliose 
 ' Steel Glass ' was published in 1576 
 (see 'Eng. Lit.' ii. 221). Fuller 
 (' Wortlues ') asserts that "he was 
 commonly called om- English Seneca, 
 for the purenesse, plainnesse, and 
 fulnessc of his style." The bishop's 
 wife (d. 1652) is also buried here, 
 and John, one of their sons (d. 1650). 
 The parish ch. is indifferent Perp., 
 and, except for the bishop's tomb, of 
 no great interest. A new ch. has 
 recently been built in the village, 
 which is really a subm-b of Norwich. 
 
 Carrow, also a suburb, on the E. of 
 Norwich, contained u prioiy of Bene- 
 dictine nuns, founded in 1146, by 
 Seyua and Leftilina (two sisters of a 
 hospital which had before existed on 
 the site), and richly endowed by King 
 Stephen. It was to the last j^rioress of 
 Carrow that Skelton addressed his 
 jingle of rhymes on the death of her 
 favourite bird, " Philip Sparrow ; " and 
 it may be the badge of this lady, a 
 gypcere, or hawking pouch, which is 
 still to be seen in a panelled oak 
 room, said to have been the private 
 apartmentof the prioress. Her rebus, 
 a Y and a gun, for Isabel " Wygan," 
 is over the chimney-piece and the 
 doorways. The priory, at the Dissolu- 
 tion, was granted to Sir John Shelton, 
 who converted the domestic buildings 
 into a residence for himself. Thus 
 the oak room and the hall were pre- 
 
KoRFOLlv. 
 
 Houte 1. — Costessi^^-'Bawhurgh. 
 
 219 
 
 served. Some other fragments re- 
 main, including the early Dec. portal 
 of the chapter-house. 
 
 A pleasant drive, which will give 
 a good notion of the country S. of 
 Xorwich, may be taken — first to Cais- 
 ter St. Edmund's, thence by Keswick 
 and Intwood to Cringleford, on the 
 Wymondham road, and so back to 
 the city. The round will be about 
 8 m. For the Roman camp and the 
 ch. at Caister see the present route, 
 ante. Between "Caister and Keswick, 
 Dunston Ch. and Sail ( — Long, 
 Esq.) are passed. The ch. is hidden 
 among trees, and the scene is very 
 pleasing. All this part of the country 
 is richly wooded, with fine oaks, 
 elms, and ash-trees. For Keswick 
 and Intwood, see the beginning of 
 Ete. 6. Cringleford Ch. is Perp., 
 but of little interest. In Eaton Ch., 
 between Cringleford and Norwich, 
 the father (d. 1822) of Henry Kirke 
 White is buried. There are pleasant 
 walks from Eaton along the river to 
 Earlham on one side, and to Keswick 
 on the other. 
 
 A day's excursion may be made 
 from Norwich to many of the places 
 described in the following routes : — 
 To Wymondham ^Rte. 6; and Attle- 
 borough (Rte. 12), to East Dereham 
 (Rte. 6), and to Yarmouth (Rte. 2). 
 
 Costessey (generally called Cosseij) 
 Hall (Lord Stafibrd), with its fine 
 gardens and park, is well worth a 
 visit; but although the latter were 
 formerly open on certain days of the 
 week, they can now only be visited 
 by special permission. Costessey is 
 4 m. N.W. of Norwich. The estate 
 was granted by Queen Mary to Sir 
 Henry Jerningham, her Vice-Cham- 
 berlain and Master of the Horse, in 
 gratitude, it is said, for his having 
 been the first man of rank who offered 
 his services to her at Kenninghall 
 after the death of Edward VI. The 
 house, of red brick and stone, is a 
 large pile, and forms three sides of a 
 
 quadrangle, with a variety of Tudor 
 gables, chimneys, and pinnacles. It 
 was founded by Sir H. Jerningham, 
 in the reign of Elizabeth, but the 
 present building (designed by J. 
 C. Buckler), in antique taste and 
 of great magnificence, is entirely 
 modern, and is still incomplete. The 
 chimney shafts are of moulded brick, 
 after designs from East Barsham. 
 The general aspect of the building is 
 noble, though fanciful. Here are an 
 original portrait of Queen Mary, said 
 to be by Holbein, and a very curious 
 one of Richard III.; a charming 
 drawing of the Earl of Arundel, Ale- 
 thea, his Countess, and their children, 
 bearing the sword and target of James 
 IV. taken at Flodden ; Vandyck. This 
 was the sketch for the picture in- 
 tended as a pendant to the Pembroke 
 family at Wilton, but never executed. 
 A chamber in the house is fitted up 
 with the finely carved woodwork of 
 an entire room of the 15th centy., 
 brought from the abbey of St. Amand, 
 at Rouen. 
 
 The private chapel, after a design 
 by Mr. Edward Jerningham, is a 
 modern Gothic building with 20 win- 
 dows filled with fine old stained glass 
 collected on the Continent, and chiefly 
 of the early German and Flemish 
 schools. 
 
 The gardens and pleasure grounds 
 cover 7 acres. The park is very fine, 
 well timbered, and watered by the 
 Wensum, which flows through it. 
 
 Drayton Lodge (on the Costessey 
 road, 31 m. from Norwich, and ^ m. 
 from Drayton) is the ruin of a square 
 building of some strength, with round 
 towers at the angles. It is entirely 
 of yellowish brick, and was certainly 
 built by Sir John Fastolfe, the lord 
 and builder of Caister (see Rte. 2). 
 
 [On the rt. bank of the Tare, about 
 
 2 m. S. of Costessey, is Bawburgh 
 (pron. JBaber), where was the shrine 
 of St. Walstan, a local saint, the 
 especial patron of " mowers and scythe 
 
 L 2 
 
220 Houie H . — Sarlinghdm and WroxJiam Broads. Sect. III. 
 
 followers," all of wliom, in tins neigh- 
 bourhood, "sought him oucc in the 
 year." Little or nothing is known 
 with certainty about St. Walstan, 
 whose life is nevertheless to be read 
 at much length in Capgrave. He is 
 said to have renounced his patrimony, 
 and to liave served as a labourer in 
 the fields. His sanctity was proved 
 by miracles, and as he was one day 
 mowing in a meadow, near Costessey, 
 he was warned of his approaching 
 death by an angel. He then prayed 
 that all labourers and " scythe fol- 
 lowers" might obtain benefit for 
 themselves and their cattle by visiting 
 his grave. His prayer was granted. 
 He died, and his body was conveyed 
 in a cart drawn by oxen to Baw- 
 burgh, the oxen stopping at certain 
 sjjots, where springs of water burst 
 forth, and passing over deej? water in 
 Costessey wood, as if on dry land 
 (the traces of the wheels were long 
 pointed out on the surface of the 
 water — as great a marvel as the 
 miracle itself). St. Walstan's death 
 is placed in 1016. His tomb at Baw- 
 burgh was visited by numerous pil- 
 grims, and the ch. was rebuilt by 
 their offerings at the beginning of the 
 14th cent. After the cessation of 
 pilgrimages, it became ruinous, was 
 for some time abandoned, and was 
 recovered and repaired in 1633.3 
 
 At Taverham, on the Wensum, 5^ 
 m, N.W. of Norwich, and not far 
 from Cossey, is the mill from which 
 a large portion of the paper used for 
 printing 'The Times' newspaper is 
 supplied. 
 
 8 m. from Norwich, also on the 
 Dereham road, is Honingliam Hall 
 (Lord Bayning), a fine Elizabethan 
 mansion, built by Chief Justice Eich- 
 ardson. Among other pictm-es in 
 the house are the Infant Family of 
 Charles I. (a duplicate of that at 
 Windsor), and the Princes Rupert 
 and Maurice, by VandyeJc. 
 
 Surlingliam and WroxJiam Broads 
 
 may easily be visited from Norwich. 
 ^For a full description of tlie Broads 
 and the Broad district, see Excur- 
 sion from Yarmouth, Rte. 2.) Sur- 
 Ungliam Broad, on the Yare, is dis- 
 tant about 6 m., and covers about 
 100 acres. It communicates with the 
 Yare by a series of small channels ; 
 as does Rockland Broad, 2 m. lower. 
 On an island in Surlingham Broad, 
 Polypodium caloareum (Limestone 
 Polypody, traceable by the delicious 
 fragrance it exhales under the sun) 
 grows abundantly. Wroxham Broad, 
 on the Bure, 7 m. from Norwich, is 
 very picturesque, and well deserves 
 a visit. It is the scene of an annual 
 regatta, or " water frolic ; " and " a 
 man who has seen this sheet of water, 
 with its rich framework of old trees, 
 is not likely soon to forget it The 
 efiect is considerably heightened by 
 the light river yachts with theii' snow- 
 white sails, and by the concourse of 
 people who attend the regatta." . . . 
 " The whole scene is so remarkable 
 that Crome, the Norwich painter, 
 had good reason for wishing to trans- 
 fer a water frolic to canvas. On the 
 day of his seizure by the illness which 
 ended his life, he had placed a can- 
 vas 6 ft. long on his easel for the 
 Wroxham hohday, and expressed a 
 full determination to make it the best 
 picture he had ever painted." — 
 Whites 'Eastern England.' The Ch. 
 of Wroxham has a Norman portal. 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boute 2.'^Norivich to Yarmouth. 
 
 221 
 
 ROUTE 2. 
 
 NORWICH TO YARMOUTH (OR LOWE- 
 STOFT)— RAIL. 
 
 (Great Eastern and Norfolk Bail- 
 
 loays.) 
 
 Trains run from the Victoria 
 Stat. There are many daily. The 
 journey to Yarmouth is performed 
 in about 1 hour ; to Lowestoft, in 
 rather more than an hour. 
 
 This line (20 J m. to Yarmouth, 
 23J m. to Lowestoft) is (to Yarmouth) 
 a continuation of the rly. from London 
 to Norwich through Cambridge and 
 Ely. It passes through a dreary 
 tract of marshland — a region of 
 "canards" and "canaux," though 
 by no means of " canaille" — and 
 there is little to interest the tourist 
 until he reaches Yarmouth. At 
 
 5f m. Brundall, the rail bends 
 southward, and follows the left bank 
 of the Yare to 
 
 7f m. Buckenham Stat. (The 
 Ch. of BiUington, across the Yare, 
 3 m., has a good Dec. porch, with 3 
 open arches on each side.) 
 
 [6 m. S. is Langley Hall (Sii* T. B. 
 Proctor Beauchamp, Bart.), contain- 
 ing some interesting pictures and 
 other objects of art. The house dates 
 from 1740, and was built from de- 
 signs by Brettingham. In it are 
 some fine windows of early German 
 stained glass, a bronze statue of 
 Loiiis XV. by De la Colonge, and 
 many other bronzes and busts. The 
 most important pictures (which are 
 numerous) are — Battle of Solebay, 
 W. Vandervelde ; Holy Family, Fra 
 Bartolomeo ; Madonna, Murillo ; Por- 
 trait of De Witt, C. Jansen ; and 
 The Youthful IMoralist, Sir J. Rey- 
 nolds. 
 
 Farther N., toward the river are 
 some very scanty remains of an 
 
 abbey of Premonstratensian canons, 
 founded in 1198 by Robert Fitz- 
 Roger, Sheriff of Norfolk.] 
 
 At 121 ni. the line reaches 
 Reedham Junction, where a branch 
 passes to Lowestoft, 11^ m. A local 
 tradition asserts that Reedham was 
 the place where Ragnar Lodbrok 
 came ashore, and was miu'dered by 
 Biorn. The story itself is scarcely 
 historical ; but some real landing and 
 its results may have been confused 
 with it. 
 
 [On this line, beyond Reedham, 
 there are stations at Haddiscoe, Somer- 
 leyton, and Mutford. The Ch. at Had- 
 discoe will repay a visit. It stands on 
 a heiglit above the marsh, and has a 
 round tower ; one of the best in the 
 country. (Compare Herringfleet, Suf- 
 folk, Rte. 5.) The tower, of flint, 
 in regular courses, ia 52 ft. high and 
 8 ft. diameter within. The walls in- 
 cline slightly inwards. In the up- 
 permost story are 2-light windows, 
 triangular-headed, under canopies. 
 The work is Norman, and probably 
 of tlie same date as the N. and S. 
 doors, the first of which is much 
 etuiched, and has in a niche above 
 it a sitting figure wearing a chasuble, 
 and with both hands raised in bene- 
 diction. Over the head is what 
 seems to be a dove. The figure may 
 perhaps represent our Lord, but, if so, 
 the design is unusual. The ch. con- 
 tains other Norm, portions, a fine 
 font, and remains of frescoes (St. 
 Christopher) on the N. wall. The 
 ch. has been restored. A long and 
 curious dam or causeway, constructed 
 by Dame Margaret Hobart, in the 
 reign of Henry VII., runs across the 
 marshes from Haddiscoe to St. 
 Olave's Bridge — also the work of 
 Dame Margaret. For Somerleyton 
 and Mutford, see Suffolk, Rte. 5.] 
 
 From Reedham Junction the rly. 
 proceeds along the north bank of the 
 Breydoii Water to Yarmouth. The 
 
222 
 
 Boiite 2.'^Yarmontli : Site. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 *' Water " itself forms a broad and 
 considerable lake, much affected, of 
 course, by tlie tides, and abounding 
 in ■winter with rare water fowl. Here 
 is held every year the "Yarmouth 
 water frolic," a picturesque regatta, 
 at which the various craft employed 
 on the river assemble. There is a 
 fine view of Yarmouth from this 
 water. The rivers Yare and Waveney 
 meet at the S.W. angle of the Brey- 
 don "Water ; and the river Bure falls 
 into it at the N.E. A long spit of 
 land extends southward of this point 
 to what is known as the •' mouth of 
 the Yare," where the three rivers fall 
 into the sea : and on this spit is 
 
 20 J m. Yarmouth, commonly called 
 Great Yarmouth. (Pop. in 1861, 
 34,803; Hotels: Victoria, Eoyal, 
 Bath, and Norfolk, all on the Parade, 
 fronting the beach, and all near to- 
 gether.) Steamers run from Yar- 
 mouth to Hull and Newcastle, and 
 from Yarmouth to London, weekly, 
 during the summer. The history of 
 Yarmouth has been well illustrated, 
 and especially by Mr. C. J. Palmer, 
 who has publisbed a distinct "his- 
 tory" of his native town, and an 
 edition of Manship's (town clerk in 
 1579) history, with very valuable 
 notes. ' Great Yarmouth and 
 Lowestoft,' by J. G. Nail, London, 
 1866, a volume of more than 700 
 pages, is a most admirable handbook, 
 containing, of course, far more infor- 
 mation than can be inserted here. 
 
 Yarmouth (the name indicates its 
 position at the mouth of the Yare) is a 
 flourishing seaport, the eighth in Eng- 
 land in importance : and as a water- 
 ing-place it is for the Eastern Counties 
 what Scarborough is for the Northern, 
 — the largest, the most frequented, the 
 best supplied with resources for the 
 amusement of visitors, and the most 
 overrun with excursionists during 
 the summer. Those who are in 
 search of quiet and of pleasant in- 
 land country will do well to avoid 
 Yarmouth. The single attraction 
 
 here is the imbroken expanse of sea, 
 which is very fine. The country is, 
 of course, perfectly flat, and it re- 
 quires the enthusiasm of a native to 
 find much charm in it. "As we 
 drew a little nearer," writes David 
 Copperfield, "and saw the whole 
 adjacent prospect lying a straight 
 low line under the sky, I hinted to 
 Peggotty that a mound or so might 
 have improved it ; and also, tbat if 
 the land had been a little more sepa- 
 rated from the sea, and that the town 
 and the tide had not been quite so 
 much mixed up, like toast-and- water, 
 it would have been nicer. But Peg- 
 gotty said, with greater emphasis 
 than usual, that we must take 
 things as we found them ; and that, 
 for her part, she was proud to call 
 herself a Yarmouth Bloater.' " 
 
 The site of Great Yarmouth is a 
 sandbank, which originally impeded 
 the navigation of the estuary, on the 
 two sides of which the Romans built 
 their forts of Burgh Castle to the 
 S. (Suffolk, Rte. 5), and Caister to 
 the N. (see post, Excm-sion). This 
 sandbank gradually rose until it 
 became a safe resting place for 
 fishermen at high water. Houses 
 were built on it ; and at the time of 
 the Domesday survey there were 
 seventy burgesses within the town 
 of Yarmouth. A certain jurisdiction 
 over Yarmouth was claimed at an 
 early period, and was confii'med by 
 King John, by the barons of the 
 Cinque Ports, who every year sent 
 their bailiffs to preserve the king's 
 peace here during the " free fair of 
 herrings" — held for six weeks in 
 September — "the worthiest herring 
 fishery in Europe," writes Speed, 
 " which drawetli great concourse of 
 people, which maketli the to^vn 
 much the richer all the year follow- 
 ing, but very unsavoury for the time." 
 (At this free fair the vessels from all 
 tlie neighbouring coasts and fishing 
 villages landed their cargoes, and 
 sold them to buyers from all parts. 
 The fair lost much of its importance 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boiite 2. — Yarmouth : History. 
 
 223 
 
 after an order issued by Charles I., 
 prohibiting the Dutch from fishing 
 off Yarmouth ; and it gradually died 
 out. — Matthew Paris (p. 318) asserts 
 that in the year 1238 herrings in 
 England were sold for almost nothing, 
 and gives as a reason that the Tar- 
 tars, having invaded Hungary, and 
 spread through Poland, were causing 
 so much dread on the shores of the 
 Baltic, and in Friezeland, that the 
 inhabitants were afraid to leave their 
 homes and to visit Yarmouth as 
 usual ; hence the accumulation of 
 herrings, which were generally car- 
 ried off in great quantities by these 
 " Osterlings/') Great jealousy existed 
 between Yarmouth and the Cinque 
 Ports; and on the petition of the 
 latter to Charles II., "the visitation of 
 their bailiffs ceased in 1662. The 
 herring fishery was the foundation of 
 the prosperity of Y''armouth, which, 
 like Amsterdam, may truly be said 
 to be " built upon herring bones." 
 King John gave the town its first 
 charter, which was confirmed by 
 later sovereigns ; and the privileges 
 conferred on Yarmouth led to much 
 strife between that place and Nor- 
 wich, and between Yarmouth and 
 Lowestoft, also a royal burgh, and 
 a rival of Yarmouth in the herring 
 trade. Sea-fights frequently took 
 place between the " Lestoffenses," 
 as Camden calls them, and the 
 men of Yarmouth, with great loss 
 of life on both sides. (So on the 
 S. coast the men of Dartmouth 
 and Lyme and of Dartmouth and 
 Fowey were constantly at deadly 
 feud, and strove to capture each 
 others' vessels. The English, said 
 Scaliger, make the best pirates 
 in the world, — so much of the old 
 Viking spirit remained in the inhabi- 
 tants of the coast.) The same fierce 
 spirit rose to such a height between 
 Yarmouth and their Cinque Port 
 masters that in four years of Edward 
 I.'s reign 236 Yarmouth men were 
 killed by the Cinque Ports men in 
 the Swinney, and 144 out of it — 
 
 besides 280 Suffolk men and 387 
 Norfolk men. During the same 
 period the Cinque Ports lost 306 
 men, — Nail. Some of these losses 
 probably occurred during a jBght 
 between the Yarmouth and Cinque 
 Ports ships when Edward I. passed 
 into Flanders. On this occasion 25 
 Yarmouth ships were burned. Under 
 Edward III. (at the siege of Calais, 
 in 1346), Yarmouth furnished more 
 ships and men than any other port ; 
 and in 1340, at the famous sea-fight 
 off Sluys, the Yarmouth men were 
 especially commended by the king. 
 The town was walled between the 
 years 1284-1396; and the walls 
 saved Yarmouth from plunder in 
 1549, when the rebels under Kett 
 planted ordnance brought from 
 Lowestoft at Gorleston, aAd can- 
 nonaded the town. But the inhabi- 
 tants sallied forth, and " put them to 
 flight." In the mean time the place 
 had wonderfully increased in pros- 
 perity and in importance, and Wil- 
 liam of Worcester (1478), who Imew 
 it well from his connection with 
 Caister Castle, praises it in his 
 Itinerary as " habilis urbs in cultu 
 dominorum, doraorum venustate, ves- 
 tium honestate." 
 
 Yarmouth has had little local 
 history. It supported the side of 
 the Parliament during the Civil 
 War (its rival, Lowestoft, was 
 royalist) ; and Cromwell sent his 
 son-in-law, Ireton, to garrison the 
 town. After the Eestoration Yar- 
 mouth was punished by a " purga- 
 tion " of its corporation, and the sur- 
 render of its charters. Charles II. 
 was received here in 1671, and re- 
 ceived a present of four herrings — 
 which were no doubt easily digested, 
 though their bodies were of gold with 
 eyes of rubies. 
 
 "Yarmouth had first (0 more than happy 
 
 port !) 
 The honour to receive the King and court, 
 And entertain, season providing dishes, 
 The King of England ■with the King of 
 
 fishes." 
 
224 
 
 Boute 2.— Yarmouth : the Quay. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 So began a poem soon afterwards 
 published ; but the " happy port " 
 had not forgotten its old enmity to 
 the Stuarts; and the accession of 
 William III. was received here with 
 great satisfaction. William himself 
 landed at Yarmouth in 1692, on re- 
 turning from his campaign in Flan- 
 ders. Nov. 6, 1800, Nelson, after 
 the Battle of the Nile, landed here, 
 and. amidst great rejoicings, was 
 made a freeman of the burgh. He 
 sailed hence for Copenhagen in 
 March, 1801; and after his victory 
 returned to Yarmouth, July 1, 1801. 
 The fisheries, and especially the 
 herring fishery (see post, for a short 
 description), have always formed the 
 principal trade of Yarmouth. The 
 port was for some time engaged in 
 the cod' and whale fisheries of the 
 North Seas ; but these " branches " 
 — (the " lesser fisheries " as tliey 
 were called ; the herring, both here 
 and in Holland was the "great 
 fishery ") —have long become extinct. 
 Besides fish, much corn is exported 
 from Y''armouth ; there is a large coal- 
 trade, and an extensive foreign 
 trade with the Baltic and Mediter- 
 ranean. 631 sailing vessels, besides 
 many steamers, are registered as be- 
 longing to Y^'armouth. 
 
 Yarmouth, like most old towns 
 which have grown into watering- 
 places, consists of two very distinct 
 jjortions — the old town, lying along 
 the Quay; and the new town, the 
 town of bathers and summer visitors, 
 opening to the Parade. The chief 
 points of interest are — the Quay it- 
 self, with the old houses that line 
 it; the Nelson Column; and the 
 ancient church of St. Nicholas. 
 
 A bridge crossing the Eiver Bure 
 leads from the Eastern Counties Ely. 
 station to the Quay. (Not far from 
 this bridge is the successor of one, a 
 chain suspension bridge, which fell in 
 May, 184:5, xmder the weight of a 
 crowd of people who had assembled 
 upon it to see the clown of a pack of 
 itinerant mountebanks ascend the 
 
 river in a washing-tub, towed by four 
 geese, for a wager. At the moment 
 of his passing under, a rush of the 
 close-packed spectators to one side of 
 the platform took place, a crash was 
 heard, the iron suspending rods on 
 one side snapped asunder, and more 
 than 300 men, women, and children 
 were tilted over into the water. No 
 less than 79 lives were lost.) The 
 Quay extends along the 1. bank of 
 Yarmouth Haven, the contracted 
 channel which turns S. from the 
 Breydon Water, and enters the sea 
 at the so-called " Mouth of the 
 Yare," 3 m. below the town. (The 
 old channel was intercepted, as has 
 been already said, by the formation 
 of the sandbank on which Yarmouth 
 is built.) The old town, which 
 borders the Quay, consists of five 
 streets running parallel with the 
 river, connected by 156 cross pas- 
 sages, very narrow, and called 
 "rows." tlsually there is a row 
 between every two houses. Though 
 not above 5 or 6 ft. wide, they are 
 traversed by carts of a peculiar kind, 
 long and narrow, with 2 small wheels 
 below the body ; a sort of horse- 
 wheelbarrow, called "trolls'* or 
 "trolly-carts," and sometimes "Y''ar- 
 niouth coaches." Mr. Harrod (• Norf. 
 Archseol.' vol. iv.) has shown from 
 an ordinance in the ' Book of En- 
 tries,' belonging to the Corporation, 
 that these carts were devised early 
 in the reign of Henry VII., and were 
 then called " Harry carries," the 
 owners being " Harry carmen." 
 
 On the Suffolk side of the haven is 
 the suburb called Little Y^'armouth, 
 or South Town. Here is the ter- 
 minus of the East Sutfolk Railway 
 (see Suffolk, Ete. 5), near which a 
 bridge crosses the Y'are or haven to 
 the Quay. 
 
 The Quay, a prominent and plea- 
 sant feature in the town, is above a 
 mile long, and from 100 to 150 yards 
 broad. It is planted with lime-trees, 
 and usually wears a busy and cheer-i 
 
KoRFOLK. Moute 2. — Yarmouth : Public Buildings. 
 
 225 
 
 ful aspect, thronged with shipping 
 loading and unloading, and lined 
 with handsome houses. The scene 
 altogether has much the character 
 of some of the town views in Hol- 
 land. The length of this quay is a 
 common subject of local boasting, 
 and it is frequently asserted that 
 no quay in Europe, except that of 
 Seville, is its superior. But a rigid 
 scrutiny will prove that it must 
 yield the palm — at least in the mat- 
 ter of length — to the quays of Rotter- 
 dam, Antwerp, St. Petersburgh, and 
 Bordeaux. It is, however, a free quay, 
 at which all ships may load or un- 
 load, wi til out paying tax or duty. 
 
 On what is called the Hall Quay, 
 and facing the bridge which crosses 
 the haven, is the house occupied by 
 the late Mr. Dawson Turner, whose 
 pictui'es and fine library were dis- 
 persed after his death in 1858. (His 
 vast collections for the illustration 
 of Blomefield's ' Norfolk ' are now in 
 the Brit. Mus.) The Town Hall, 
 with its portico of Tuscan pillars, 
 also on the Hall Quav, begun in 
 1715, was added to in 1782. It 
 contains portraits of George I., and 
 of Sir Robert Walpole, and three 
 curious views of Yarmouth, dating 
 from the end of the last century. A 
 new building has lately been added, 
 which contains the charters and re- 
 cords of the town, and, in the Record 
 Room, an ancient chest called the 
 "Hatch," in which the Corporation 
 formerly kept their valuables. The 
 outside of this chest has been 
 repainted in polychrome ; and its 
 huge iron bars and locks should be 
 noticed. 
 
 No. 4, on the South Quay, the 
 house of Mr. Aldred (formerly occu- 
 pied by the late C J.' Palmer, Esq.), 
 though it has a modern front, is rich 
 within in most elaborate and excellent 
 specimens of Elizabethan decoration. 
 Many of the rooms are wainscoted ; 
 the chimney-pieces are richly carved ; 
 and the ceilings moulded in various 
 patterns. The drawingeroom, which 
 
 has been admirably restored, is one 
 of the finest Tudor apartments re- 
 maining. The house was built in 
 159G by Benjamin Cooper, a wealthy 
 merchant. It belonged at one time 
 to a son-in-law of the Republican 
 general Ireton ; and there is a tra- 
 dition that the king's death was 
 resolved upon at a meeting of officers 
 in this house. Passing the Custom 
 House, and a building (marked by a 
 clock), and said to occupy the site of 
 the mart-house of wool, temp. Ed. II., 
 we reach the Government Schools of 
 Navitfation and Design, established 
 in 1857. Beyond the schools is the 
 site of the South Gate of the town ; 
 the foundations only remain, but 
 the wall is traceable on either side. 
 Turning down Queen's Road, the 
 Royal Military Hospital, erected by 
 Government in 1809, at a cost of 
 120,000Z. is reached. The 3Iilitia 
 Barracks lie beyond; and in front 
 rises the Nelson Column. This, de- 
 signed by Wilkins, was erected by 
 the county of Norfolk, in 1817-18, in 
 honour of the hero, whom, says the 
 inscription, " Orbis terrarum univer- 
 sus reformidabat." It consists of a 
 Doric pillar, crowned by a statue 
 of Britannia, and placed on a kind of 
 terrace to which there is an ascent 
 by steps. There are inscriptions on 
 the pedestal. The total height is 
 144 ft.; and from the summit a view 
 is gained which is worth the labour 
 of the climb. The town and haven 
 lie stretched out below; and in clear 
 weather the spire of Norwich cathe- 
 dral is visible. The monument is 
 well placed here, on the spot where 
 Nelson landed after two of his 
 greatest victories; and the ancient' 
 epitaph has been aptly applied to it — 
 
 " By the sea's margin, on the wat'ry strand. 
 Thy monument, Themistocles, shall stand ; 
 By this, directed to thy native shore. 
 The merchant shall convey his freighted 
 
 store ; 
 And when onr fleets are summoned to the 
 
 fight, 
 Athens shall conquer \i\ih. thy tomb iq 
 
 sight.'' ^ 
 
 h 3 
 
226 
 
 jRoute 2. — Yarmouth : ChurcJies. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 The walk may be extended 1 J m. to 
 the mouth of the haven (but a ferry 
 must be crossed, nearly in a line 
 with the Nelson Column). The 
 haven itself is the 7th constructed, 
 the others having been silted up at 
 various periods. It was completed in 
 the reign of Elizabeth, and a con- 
 siderable sum is yearly expended in 
 clearing it, and repairing the piers 
 and quays. There are two piers at 
 the entrance of the harbour. Vessels 
 drawing 12 ft. of water can cross the 
 bar at high tide. Turner's drawing 
 of Great Yarmouth ('Harbouj:s of 
 England ') was made from the heights 
 of Gorleston, S. of the haven mouth. 
 In this drawing, the " expression of 
 water under a fresh gale, seen in 
 enormous extent from a great eleva- 
 tion," has been lovingly dwelt on by 
 Mr. Euskin (' Modern Painters '). 
 
 At the N. end of the market-place 
 is the Church of St. Nicholas (patron 
 of seamen). A Norman ch. was 
 built hero by Herbert Losinga, Bp. 
 of Norwich (1091-1119), the founder 
 of his cathedral at Norwich (see 
 Ete. 1), and the builder of churches 
 at Lynn, at Elmham, and elsewhere. 
 But unless in portions of the central 
 tower (and there very doubtfully), 
 no part of the existing church is of 
 his time. It now consists of nave 
 and chancel (both aisled) transepts 
 and central tower. It is said to be 
 the longest (230 ft.) parish church 
 in England, and is certainly the 
 widest (nave and aisles) in the coun- 
 try. (York Minster is 106 ft. wide ; 
 St. Nicholas, 110 ft.) After suffer- 
 ing much from spoliation and im- 
 provers of various kinds and of various 
 dates, the ch. has, within the last 
 few years, been carefully restored by 
 Mr. G. G. Scott. The chancel, 
 which was separated from the nave 
 by a solid wall, has been again 
 opened to it. A new E. end and 
 window" (the E. end of the chancel 
 fell in 1784) have been constructed ; 
 and the whole interior is now very 
 striking, (The nave had been re- 
 
 stored before the ch. was placed in 
 Mr. Scott's hands. Two of the E. E. 
 piers at the W. end had been de- 
 stroyed, and were rebuilt, and the 
 whole of the N. transept was recon- 
 structed.) The nave is for the most 
 part Trans. Norman of very early 
 character, the piers being some cir- 
 cular, some with attached shafts. 
 The nave aisles are wider than the 
 nave itself, and are Dec. additions. 
 " On both sides of the nave the 
 original corbel tables are seen un- 
 der the present roof of the aisles, 
 proving the original aisles to have 
 been much narrower, and with lean- 
 to roofs below their corbels." — Nail. 
 The widening of the aisles was pro- 
 bably rendered necessary in order to 
 provide room for guild chapels and 
 other chantries. The W. window of 
 the nave, and the tower arches are 
 E. E., as are the arches opening to 
 the transepts. The chancel is Early 
 Dec. At the W. end of the N. 
 nave aisle is a stained-glass window 
 — a memorial of Sarah Martin, who 
 devoted herself to the reformation of 
 prisoners in Yarmouth gaol. Within 
 the W. door is a seat made from the 
 bone of a whale, and called, for some 
 unknown reason, the Devil's Seat. 
 It formerly stood at the church gate. 
 This ch. was attached by Bp. Her- 
 bert Losinga to the Benedictine 
 Priory of Holy Trinity, Norwich. 
 The priory established a cell here ; 
 and some remains of the conventual 
 buildings exist S. of the chancel. 
 The Great Hall, dating from about 
 1260, was restored soon after 1845, 
 and is now used as the national 
 school. 
 
 St. Johi's Church, for beachmen 
 and fishermen, was erected on the 
 South Beach in 1858. It is built in 
 the E. E. style; and the internal 
 walls, constructed with red, white, 
 and black bricks have an admirable 
 effect : a S. aisle was added in 1859. 
 A ch. for the wherrymen of the river 
 has also been built (1800) on the 
 
Norfolk. Route 2.*^YarmoutJi : Walls ; Marine Parade. 227 
 
 North Quay. It is somewhat similar 
 in style, and in excellent taste. The 
 Beachmen's and Fishermen's Insti- 
 tute, Sailors' Home, and Kefuge for 
 the Shipwrecked (it is near St. John's 
 Ch.), was established in 1859, and 
 has already aflbrded advantages to 
 upwards of 30,000 seamen. 
 
 The coui'se of the ancient toicii 
 li'alls may be traced by those who 
 are willing to undergo a pilgrimage 
 through some of the least savoury 
 portions of Yarmoutli. There are 
 some pictui'esque fragments ; but 
 better than any remains of the walls 
 themselves are two towers (the First 
 Tower and the Blackfriars Tower) 
 bounding the precincts of the Black- 
 friars (Dominican) monastery, in 
 Friars-lane, and close to the town 
 wall. The buildings of the monas- 
 tery were used for repairing the 
 wall. 
 
 Yarmouth, like its fellow-towns 
 on the coast of Holland, was long- 
 celebrated for the art collections 
 formed by its wealthy merchants. 
 The greater part of these have been 
 dispersed. (The most important in 
 recent days was the collection of Mr, 
 Dawson Tiu:ner.) But some interest- 
 ing jiictures may still be found here. 
 Mr. Sherrington, who resides in the 
 town, possesses various pictures by 
 the well-known Old Crowe, a native 
 of Norfolk. " Among the nine land- 
 scapes by him here, I was most 
 struck by the following : — 1. An 
 avenue of trees foreshortened, with 
 noonday shadows, a man and dog in 
 the foreground. 2. A dark wood, 
 with warm evening light, country- 
 men and a dog in the foreground. 
 3. A large landscape with a cottage, 
 in the taste of Gainsborough, 4. 
 Another landscape with large willow 
 trees, with the cool, silvery tones 
 delicately carried out." — Waagen. 
 
 The modern portion of Yarmouth 
 lies along the Marine Parade, facing 
 the sea and the " Eoads." Here are 
 many terraces of good houses. The 
 
 Parade is of great length, and affords 
 an excellent promenade. The bath 
 ing is good ; and the aii- is said to be 
 specially bracing and healthy. The 
 poet Crabbe was a frequent visitor 
 here; and his sketches of sea-side 
 amusements were to a great extent 
 studied on the Denes and parades of 
 Yarmouth. The Britannia Pier, at 
 the N. end of the Parade, was built 
 in 1858; the Wellington Pier, some 
 distance below, in 1854. Between 
 them is the older jetty, rebuilt in 
 1808 at a cost of 5000Z. It was at 
 the old jetty on this site that Nelson 
 landed ; and at the same place Louis 
 XVIII. landed, Nov, 2, 1807, under 
 the title of the Count de Lille. 
 
 Long boats, painted white and 
 black, are frequent on the beach, 
 and are the well-known Yarmouth 
 yaiols, "employed to render assist- 
 ance to vessels in distress in stormy 
 weather and in heavy seas ; they are 
 built to combine safety with swift- 
 ness. Their length varies from 50 
 to 70 ft., and they carry 20 men.'' — ■ 
 Nail. They are manned by the 
 beachmen — a special class, resem- 
 bling the Deal "hovellers." The 
 Yarmouth life-boat is under their 
 care. Storms on this coast are un- 
 usually fearful and destructive. The 
 loss of the Flemish ships on the 
 Cnebing Sand in 1215 (see Suffolk, 
 Rte. 5, Loiuestoft) ; the destruction 
 in 1692 of 140 colliers, out of a 
 fleet of 200 which left Yarmouth 
 Roads for the North ; the loss in 
 1801 of H.M.S. 'Invincible,' when 
 Captain Rennie and 400 men perish- 
 ed, are but a few of the many 
 records of hurricane on these low 
 eastern shores. Dickens, in ' David 
 Copperfield,' and De Foe, in ' Robin- 
 son Crusoe ' (early in the bookj, have 
 described as powerfully as words 
 permit, the terrors of shipwreck on 
 the Yarmouth coast. The shifting 
 sands which protect the roads are 
 the greatest source of danger to ships 
 outside them. 
 
 Yarmouth BoacU, though not 
 
228 Iloute2. — Yarmouth Boads : Herring Fishery. Sect. III. 
 
 wholly free from danger, neverthe- 
 less the only secure place of anchor- 
 age between the Humber and the 
 Thames, are well protected by a 
 line of sandbanks from the fury of 
 the North Sea. Whole fleets of col- 
 liers and other coasting-traders may 
 not unfrequently be seen at anchor 
 here. 
 
 The view of vessels in the Eoads 
 from the jetty alfords a pleasing 
 marine picture ; but it is during 
 the season of the herring fishery — 
 at the moment of the landing of 
 the fishing-boats — that this pier 
 is seen in full life and activity. 
 The busy and the idle equally flock 
 down to learn how many ' lasts ' have 
 been caught. No sooner does the 
 boat touch the ground than sturdy 
 arms are busied in dragging her 
 through the surf: carts hm-ry to 
 the beach for a cargo, or toil up 
 through the heavy sand laden witli 
 swills (double baskets holding 500 
 each) filled with fish. 
 
 The herring fishery employs during 
 the season a large part of the popu- 
 lation of Yarmouth : the men in 
 catching, the women in curing the 
 fish, and in making and mending 
 the nets. At least 400,000Z. are 
 invested in this branch of com- 
 merce in Yarmouth alone. (A most 
 complete and excellent account of 
 the herring fishery at Yarmouth, 
 and of the various processes of curing 
 the fish, will be found in Nails 
 'Oreat Yarmouth and Lowestoft,' 
 London, 1866. Every one should 
 refer to it who desires more than the 
 very brief information which can 
 here be given.) 
 
 The lierring-boats, called luggers 
 and cobles, well stocked with pro- 
 visions and salt, and having 60 or 
 100 nets, each 18 yards long, at- 
 tached together, leave the shore so 
 as to arrive on the fishing-ground at 
 nightfall, the fish being netted only 
 at night. The nets, floated on one 
 rope, are made fast to buoys or kegs. 
 The adjustment of the nets varies 
 
 with the wind and tide, and other 
 causes which affect the level at which 
 the fish swim. They strike the nets 
 most readily in very dark nights, 
 when the sea is slightly rough. To- 
 ward dawn the nets are liauled up, 
 and the fish, which are not enclosed 
 in the net, but caught by the gills in 
 its meshes, are taken out and slightly 
 salted, to preserve them till carried on 
 shore. It has been calculated that the 
 herring-nets used by the fishermen of 
 Yarmouth and Lowestoft, if stretched 
 in a line, would extend 200 miles. 
 
 In the town of Yarmouth there 
 are nearly 70 Herring-houses for 
 curing the fish, which are conveyed 
 to them when landed, and salted 
 anew. They are allowed to lie in 
 heaps for 6 or 7 days to give them 
 firmness, after which they are washed 
 in vats, and strung upon long wooden 
 spits run through the gills by women 
 called reivers. The herring-house is 
 a lofty shed 30 or 40 ft. higli, divided 
 into compartments by racks, or hori- 
 zontal bars of wood, across which 
 the wooden spits, loaded with her- 
 rings, are laid as close as possible, 
 from the top of the house to within 
 6 ft. of the floor. A fire of oak wood 
 is then kindled beneath them, and is 
 allowed to burn for 6 or 7 hours: 
 this is called a hloic, from the eftect 
 it has in distending the skin of the 
 fish. In order perfectly to cure the 
 herrings, they must be subjected to 
 10 or 12 such blows or firings, an 
 interval elapsing between each, to 
 allow the fat and oil to drip from 
 them, so that the process of making 
 a red-herring occupies 6 or 7 days. 
 
 The Bloaters, or blown herrings, 
 receive only one firing, and are much 
 less dry. They are intended for im- 
 mediate consumjition. The fishery 
 lasts from Michaelmas to November, 
 and during that time the process of 
 curing renders the whole atmosphere 
 of Yarmouth redolent of red-herring. 
 Pennant and others held that the 
 herrings wintered in the Arctic Sea 
 ;^nd migrated southwards in enormous 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Botite 2. — The Broad District. 
 
 229 
 
 shoals at the spawning season ; but 
 these fish have not been observed in 
 the North Seas, nor do they appear 
 earlier upon our northern than on 
 our southern coasts, but often the 
 reverse. Their only migration ap- 
 pears to be from deep into shallow 
 water, where the spawn obtains 
 greater warmth, and a larger supply 
 of the oxygen necessary for its de- 
 velopment. 
 
 The mackerel fishery begins in 
 May, and also gives employment and 
 food to a large portion of the poorer 
 population. 
 
 The sandbank on which Yarmouth 
 is built is at the town f m. broad. It 
 gradually narrows to the mouth of 
 the Yare. The whole is open common, 
 with scanty short grass ; and on the 
 S. Denes, mucli Poa hulbosa, a very 
 local plant. (The botany of the dis- 
 trict has been amply illustrated by 
 Mr. Dawson Turner.) The name 
 Denes {Fr. dunes ; Frisic, dohne ; 
 Dutch, duynes = sand hillock) is given 
 to these fiats N. as well as S. of the 
 town. During the fishing season 
 several acres of them are covered 
 with nets spread out to dry. 
 
 The immediate neighbourhood of 
 Yarmouth is not picturesque. But 
 excursions of much interest may be 
 made to Burgh Castle, 4 m. (see 
 Suffolk, Rte. 5) ; to Noridch (Rte . 1) ; 
 to Loicestoft, 8 m. by road (Suffolk, 
 Ete. 5) ; to the Broads of Norfolk ; 
 along the coast to Winterton ; and to 
 Caister Castle. 
 
 (a) The Norfolk Broads are so 
 beautiful in 'themselves, and so 
 peculiar, that no sti'anger should 
 visit the county without seeing at 
 least one of them. Wroxham Broad 
 on the Bure, and those on the Yare 
 may be easily reached from Norwich 
 (see Ete. 1, Excursion from Norwich), 
 but for the largest and the most im- 
 portant, Yarmouth is the best starting 
 pjace, 
 
 The •' Broad " district proper is 
 included within a triangle of which 
 the sea forms the base, while the 
 other lines are drawn from Lowestoft 
 to Norwich, and from Norwich to 
 Happisburgh. Within this there are 
 14 large broads, besides groups of 
 smaller ones. " Formerly this tract 
 was so much under water that the 
 marshes through which the rivers 
 now flow were formed out of peat 
 which then grew as aquatic weed. 
 In most of them, when a bunch of 
 grass is pulled up, empty fresh-water 
 shells are found adhering to the 
 roots. All the rivers have a very 
 low fall, and consequently meander 
 about the country before they find an 
 outlet into the sea. The tidal wave 
 enters their mouths, and comes up 
 for a great distance, causing the fresh 
 water to " back up," so that ebb and 
 flood tide are felt many miles beyond 
 where the water has ceased to be 
 brackish. Were any of those geolo- 
 gical changes, of which we have 
 heard so much, to occur here, and 
 Norfolk to settle down half-a-dozen 
 feet or so, by far its greater portion 
 would be submerged. Here and 
 there, where the land lies lower than 
 usual, the rivers all but stagnate. 
 Their waters spread out into natm-al 
 sheets or lakes, and are vernacularly 
 termed ' Broads.' "St. Paul's Mag., 
 Sept. 1868. The average depths of 
 these broads is 8 ft., and most are 
 shallower still ; so that a greater area 
 is covered by sedge and bulrush 
 than by water. Their area, through 
 drainage of marshlands round them, 
 is slowly diminishing, and the last 
 100 j-ears have seen them greatly 
 altered. To tlie lover of wild and 
 lonely scenery — almost primaeval in 
 its solitude — the broads are full 
 of attraction. The botanist, besides 
 many rare plants, will find a wealth 
 of aquatic growth rarely seen else- 
 where; and to the naturalist and 
 sportsman the broads otfer otlier 
 charms. "The sportsman who has 
 spent a fortnight in fishing and shoot-. 
 
230 
 
 Boute 2.--T}ie Broad District, 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 ing over the broads will smack liis 
 lips ever afterwards at the veiy re- 
 membrance. There he finds water- 
 hen and coot in abundance, snipe 
 of two or tliree species rising and 
 twittering at almost every yard, wild 
 duck, mallard, and teal whirring 
 from amid their sedgy covert, or 
 splashing farther into it. Pike of a 
 score pounds' weight maybe captured, 
 and lordly perch that will give a 
 good half-hour's play. Bream, roach, 
 and eels literally swarm the waters, 
 whilst for size they can hardly be 
 equalled anywhere else in England. 
 In this district it is rare indeed to 
 hear anglers speak otherwise of their 
 finny captm'es than by the stone." — 
 Id. 
 
 The best way to see the broads 
 thoroughly would be to hire for a 
 fortnight one of the small river yachts 
 to be found at Norwich, Yarmouth, 
 Coltishall, or any of the villages on 
 the river, and to engage a man to 
 sail it. The sportsman may liire a 
 flat-bottomed boat for Is. a day; and 
 a " marshman," who will take 2s, Qd. 
 a day, will be his best guide, since he 
 will know the habits of all the wild 
 creatures. The river Bare, which 
 falls into the Breydon Water close 
 above Yarmouth, is the high road 
 to the principal broads. Wroxham 
 Broad and some smaller ones are 
 on the Bure itself; and from it open 
 (1) Ormsby and Filby Broads; (2) 
 the broads on the Thurne or North 
 lliver ; and (3) those on the river 
 Ant. On the Yare is Surlingham 
 Broad (see I^orwicli, Etc. 1), and the 
 Breydon Water marks the junction 
 of the Yare and Waveney. With few 
 exceptions (including Ormsby Broad), 
 the broads are not preserved. 
 
 The Bure is a remarkably winding 
 river, owing to the extreme flatness 
 of the countr)'- thi'ough which it 
 passes. But the scenery on it is 
 tolerably diversified and agreeable. 
 After passing the village of Stolceshy, 
 on the 1. bank (in the church is a 
 brass for Edmuud Clere, died 1488, 
 
 and wife, besides others), the en- 
 trance of the stream is reached which 
 flows into the Bure from Filby Broad. 
 
 (1) The broads of Filby, Ormsby, 
 Brugh, and Eollesby, are united, and 
 extend together over 600 acres. By 
 road Filby is 7 m. from Yarmouth. 
 (There is a small inn, the Eel's Footf 
 on Ormsby Broad, where boats may 
 be hired.) Filby Broad, very pic- 
 turesque, is famous for wild duck, 
 mallard, and teal. Ormsby Broad is 
 preserved, since it aflbrds the main 
 water supply to Yarmouth. The 
 water is lifted from the broad by 
 powerful steam engines, conveyed 
 to Caister, where is a large reser- 
 voir, and thence to Yarmouth. At 
 Brugh, on the W. side of the broad 
 so called, was born, according to Le 
 Neve and Blomefield, the great 
 Hubert de Brugh — the Hubert of 
 Shakspeare's ' King John,' —one of 
 the ablest, and most powerful, and 
 most independent men of his time. 
 He was the son of Eeyner de Brugh, 
 who married Joan, daughter and 
 coheir of John Ponchard, Lord of 
 N. Tudenham, in Norfolk. The 
 Churches round this group of broads 
 should be noticed. Filby Ch., very 
 good Perp., has been restored. The 
 ironwork and the 7 locks on the tower 
 staircase are unusual. Ormsby St. 
 Margaret is Perp. with a Norm, 
 portal. Ormsby St. Michael is Ear. 
 Eng. and Dec. Ormsby Hall is the 
 residence of Sir E. H. Lacon, Bart. 
 Tl]e manor anciently belonged to a 
 fomily named fiom this place; and . 
 Gunnora de Ormsby was the mother 
 of Alice Ferrers, mistress of Edward 
 in. (see Holt, Ete. 5). The cluster 
 of names ending in " by " which are 
 found between the Bure and the 
 North Elver (in the two hundreds of 
 E. and W. Flegg) indicate a Danish 
 settlement. No other "bys" occur 
 in Norfolk, except "' Aldeby," on the 
 Waveney. There are none in Sufiblk. 
 
 (2) By the Thui'ne or North Rivci' 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 JRoiite 2.'^TIie Broad District, 
 
 231 
 
 (called also " the Hundred Stream "), 
 which falls into the Bure about 4 m. 
 above Stokesby, HicMing, Heigham, 
 Horsey, and Martliam IBroads are 
 reached. Heigham Broad is generally 
 called "Heigham Sound"; and 
 Horsey, "Horsey Mere." Hickling 
 Broad is the largest in the county, 
 3 m. in circumference. It is very 
 shallow. Pike and perch swarm in 
 it ; and ducks are sometimes " as 
 thick as herrings." (For Martham 
 Ch. see excursion 6.) 
 
 (3) Between the mouth of the 
 Thume and that of the Ant lie the 
 ruins of St. JBennet's-at-Holm, a 
 Benedictine abbey, founded by Cnut, 
 partly, it may be, in expiation of 
 the Danish ravages and plundering 
 throughout this district. In later 
 days it was much patronized by the 
 lords of Caister. The remains are 
 scanty and hardly picturesque ; and 
 St. Bonnet's is chiefly noticeable 
 from its connection with the see of 
 Norwich, effected by Henry YIII. 
 The Bp. of Norwich is still Abbot 
 of St. Bonnet's (see Ete. 1, Norwich: 
 the Cathedral). 
 
 On the Ant, the chief broads are 
 Irstead and Barton. Both are very 
 picturesque. The Myrica (sweet gale) 
 abounds on the banks ; and Osmunda 
 regalis grows to the height of 7 or 8 
 ft. A gravel "causeway," which is 
 traditionally said to traverse Irstead 
 Broad, and the low gravel moimds 
 which are found, in the marshes are 
 no doubt, relics of the glacial period 
 — like the "asar" hills of Norway 
 and Sweden. 
 
 In the rectory at Irstead (Eev. W. 
 Gunn) is a fine and very important 
 collection of fossils from the red and 
 coralline crags. Mr. Gunn is one of 
 the most successful and indefatigable 
 explorers of the Norfolk " gravels ;" 
 and his knowledge of the geology of 
 this district is probably unequalled. 
 (There is a portion of the screen 
 remaining in the ch., on which are 
 the 12 apostles. On the screen of 
 
 Barton Turf Ch. are the Heavenly 
 Hierarchy and Saints.) The reeds 
 of Stalham, above Barton Broad, 
 " are reckoned the best in Norfolk." 
 The reeds and sedges which lino 
 the broads and the narrow river chan- 
 nels are cut ; reeds in winter, " boul- 
 ders," or bulmshes, in summer. They 
 are used largely for thatching and 
 fencing, and the materials for the 
 thatched roofs of many Norfolk 
 churches are thus supplied. 
 
 (4) Above the mouth of the Ant 
 are Ran worth and S. Walsham Broads, 
 on the Bure ; they are connected with 
 the river by long reedy channels. 
 Both are picturesque. On Eanworth 
 Broad is a decoy for wild fowl. 
 
 Eanworth Church contains a some- 
 what remarkable rood-screen, the 
 paintings on which have been re- 
 garded as the work of German artists, 
 and date from 1500 and the following- 
 years. There is a rood-screen with 
 figures on the lower panels ; 2 re- 
 tables for altars at the E. end of the 
 nave, on the N. and S. sides of the 
 screen, and 2 parcloses dividing the 
 retables from the screen. The screen 
 is elaborate late Perp. work. Under 
 it are figures of the Apostles — more 
 conventional than the other paint- 
 ings, and therefore thought to be the 
 earliest. Each rotable has 4 panels, 
 with figures of saints. In each jjar- 
 close are 3 panels — 1 above and 2 
 below. The paintings on them recall 
 the school of Albert Diirer. and many 
 of the details are especially German ; 
 for examjole, the imperial crowns 
 on the heads of the angels, and the 
 use of a peculiar gold diaper. 
 
 Among the birds to be found on 
 most of the broads, and on the rivers, 
 are coot, wild duck, heron, bittern, 
 and little grebe (both becoming rare), 
 kingfisher, and reed sparrow. Of 
 2)lant8, flowering-rush, yellow iris, 
 arrow-head, and water plantain line 
 the channels. The " bede-sedge," 
 whose round burs were once used" for 
 rosaries, is found plentifully ; and 
 
232 
 
 Boute 2. — Winter ton-^Martham. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 white and yellow water-lilies form 
 great masses of leaf and llower. 
 
 The view from the ch.-tower of 
 Horning, on the Bure, above Kan 
 worth, is very extensive, and will give 
 a good idea of this flat but not un- 
 picturcsque distriet. For Wroxham 
 Broad, ou the Bure, very pretty and 
 striking, see Excursion from Nor- 
 wich, Kte. 1. 
 
 All this country, and indeed the 
 whole Norfolk coast, is liable to 
 what is called the ^'■eijnd, or water 
 smoke " — "a remarkable phenomenon 
 occurring mostly between spring and 
 autumn, and with peculiar sudden- 
 ness. All at once a damp cold mist 
 sets in from the sea, and spreads at 
 times many miles inland, refreshing 
 the vegetation, but imparting a dreary 
 aspect to the landscape. Sometimes 
 it remains the whole day; at others 
 not more than an hour or two ; then 
 gradually vanishes. The term water 
 smoke well describes it ; for it has a 
 faint, smoky appearance as if entirely 
 distinct from ordinarv fog." — Wldte's 
 'E. Eng.' Nail ('E. Angl. Glos- 
 sary ') is no doubt right in connect- 
 ing the local name " eynd " with the 
 Anglo-Saxon ond, the Danish aande, 
 and the Lowland Scots aynd^ all 
 signifying " vapour," " breatiiing." 
 
 (?j) An excursion may be made 
 from Yarmouth to Winterton and 
 IMartham churches, returning by 
 Ormsby Broad. The coast from Yar- 
 mouth to Winterton (8 m.) is low and 
 sandy. At Winterton is a lighthouse, 
 70 ft. high ; necessary at this point, 
 since Winterton Ness, low as it is, is 
 a very dangerous headland. From 
 this point the coast trends away in a 
 N.E. direction toward Cromer. The 
 lofty tower of Winterton Ch. (140 ft. ) 
 serves as a landmark. The ch. (Huly 
 Trinity) is Dec. (nave and chancel) 
 and Perp. (tower and S. porch). It 
 was re-roofed in 1037. in a some- 
 what curious fiishion. The surprising 
 arrangements for the pulpit and read- 
 ing-desk are perhaps of the same 
 
 time. The S. porch, with a chamber 
 over it, is very rich and beautiful, of 
 the same date and character as that 
 at Beccles (Suffolk, Rte. 9). In the 
 ch. is buried Joseph Hume, the well- 
 known M.P., who died in 1855, aged 
 78. Winterton Hall belongs to the 
 Hume famil3^ 
 
 Dr. Warner, "parson of Winterton," 
 accompanied Bilney to the stake at 
 Norwich. He took leave of Bilney 
 after the latter had been bound to 
 the stake; and Bilney "inclined his 
 body to speak to him a few words of 
 thanks; and the last were these : — 
 ' O, Master Doctor ! pasce gregem 
 tuum, pasce gregem tuum; ut cum 
 venerit Dominus, inveniat te sic 
 facientem.' And 'Farewell, good 
 Master Doctor ! and pray for me ;' 
 and so Warner departed without any 
 answer, sobbing and weeping." 
 
 Through a very rich and fertile 
 but perfectly level district, the tourist 
 will drive from Winterton to Mart- 
 ham, 3 m. (In the Ch. of West 
 Somerton, half-way between Winter- 
 ton and Martham, some very interest- 
 ing mural paintings have lately been 
 discovered. Between 2 Ear. Eng. 
 windows on the S. side of the nave 
 is our Lord in Judgment ; the Virgin 
 and another figure on either hand; 
 angels summoning the dead, and 
 figures below rising from the earth. 
 Opposite is the Besurrection. Cos- 
 tume, armour, and treatment of sub- 
 ject, indicate the reign of Edw. III. 
 as the date of these paintings. The 
 ch. walls seem to have been covered 
 with them.) Martham Broad is passed 
 rt. The fine Cli. of Martham is en- 
 tirely Perp. It has been restored 
 (almost rebuilt) by Mrs. Dawson, of 
 Rollesby Hall, in memory of her 
 husband, the Rev. J. Dawson, who 
 is buried here. The nave roof is 
 entirely new ; the chancel (through- 
 out modern) is of Flamboyant cha- 
 racter, and is richly and elaborately 
 ornamented. The carving of the 
 stalls should be especially noticed. 
 The E. window is by Hardimn. I« 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boute 2. — Caister Castle. 
 
 233 
 
 the nave some fine fragments of Perp, 
 glass remain. The font has the 7 
 Sacraments. Tlie S. doors are ancient, 
 and finely carved. The restoration 
 of tlie ch. cost 8000Z. ; architect, 
 Philip Boyce. The tower has since 
 been restored by the parishioners. 
 It is lofty, with some good fiiut 
 panellin^:, and a fine W. window. 
 (The little Ch. of CUppeshy, 2 m. 
 S.W. of Kollesby, is Norm, and in- 
 teresting.) 
 
 For Ormshy Broad, see Excur. a 
 (1). " This part of England," wrote 
 Southey, from Ormsby, " looks as 
 if Nature liad wearied herself with 
 adorning the rest with hill and dale, 
 and squatted down here to rest her- 
 self; you must even suppose a very 
 Dutch-looking nature to have made 
 it of such pancake flatness." — Life, 
 vol. i. 334. 
 
 The coast from Winterton to Happis- 
 burgh, where the low cliffs begin to 
 rise, is not very interesting. It has 
 been, and is still, in course of gradual 
 wasting. The village of Shipden has 
 altogether disappeared ; and the ch. 
 of Eccles is in ruins, close to the 
 water's edge. The coast is bordered 
 by a range of low sandy hillocks or 
 dunes, called here Denes, " Meals " 
 or " Marram" Hills, originally formed 
 of sand blown up by the wind and 
 sea, which is kept in place by plant- 
 ing on it the marram grass, Arundo 
 arenaria, a valuable plant whose 
 spreading roots bind together the 
 loose particles. Still this barrier is 
 liable to be broken through by the 
 tides and storms, when the low 
 marsh -land behind it is inundated. 
 Sometimes, from the prevalence of 
 N.E. winds, the sand drowns the 
 marram by drifting in larger quan- 
 tities than the plant can master. 
 Altogether much engineering skill is 
 required to prevent breaches in this 
 natural sea wall, and to fill them up 
 when formed, (For the line of coast 
 northward from Happisburgh, see 
 Btes. 3 and 4.^ 
 
 (c) Caister Castle, with its me- 
 mories of Sir John Fastolfe, and of . 
 the Fastens, is one of the most in- 
 teresting places to be visited from 
 Yarmouth, It is 4| m. distant. (The 
 village of Caister is 3 m,) Caister 
 (the village, not the castle) no doubt 
 occupies the site of a Eoman camp, 
 which, in conjunction with Burgh 
 Castle, guarded this part of the coast. 
 No remains of the camp exist ; but 
 Roman urns, pottery, and coins have 
 been found in and near the village. 
 " East Bloody Furlong," a field W. 
 of the ch., has been fixed upon as 
 the site of the Castrum, 
 
 The Ch. of St. Edmund, in the 
 village, is without interest. Sarah 
 Martin, the prison visitor, is buried 
 in the ch.-yard. Scanty ruins of 
 Holy Trinity Ch, are passed on the 
 way to the castle. 
 
 Caister was one of the manors which 
 after the Conquest fell into the hands 
 of Ealph Guader, and subsequently 
 into those of Hugh de Gournay. 
 From the Gournays it passed by 
 marriage (22 Hen. III.) to Philip 
 Lord Bardolph, It afterwards re- 
 verted to the crown ; and in the first 
 half of the 15th centy. was bought 
 by or granted to Sir John Fastolfe ; at 
 his death (after the siege and deten- 
 tion by the Duke of Norfolk ; see 
 2wst) it became the property of the 
 Fastens, who sold it in 1659 to 
 William Crow, a citizen of London. 
 Within the last few years it has been 
 bought by John Gurney, Esq,, a 
 member of the Norman family of 
 Gournay, its early possessors. 
 
 The castle was built circ. 1450 by 
 Sir John Fastolfe, whose family had 
 long been powerful in this part of 
 Norfolk. Sir John was one of the 
 best and most successful of the many 
 soldiers of fortune conspicuous in the 
 French wars of Henry V, and VI, He 
 was at the taking of Harfleur, at 
 Agincourt, and at Verneuil, For 
 his share in the taking of Granville 
 he was made a Knight of the Garter. 
 In 1420 he beca^me governor of the 
 
234 
 
 Boiite 2.^^Caister Castle. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 Bastile in Paris. At the siege of 
 Verneuil (1424:) he was fortunate 
 enough to aid in the capture of the 
 Duke of Alen9on, and to secure a 
 portion of the ransom of 200,000 
 crowns, with which he is said to have 
 built this castle. It has been sup- 
 posed by some that this Sir John was 
 the original of Shakespeare's Falstaff, 
 and Monstrelct says he was deprived 
 of his Garter for cowardice. But 
 there is no foundation for the former 
 story (except the name, which, ac- 
 cording to Mr. Halliwell, was sub- 
 stituted by Shakespeare for that of 
 " Sir John Oldcastle " on the remon- 
 strance of existing members of that 
 family), and the latter is not con- 
 firmed by the Eecords of the Order. 
 On the contrary. Sir John Fastolfe 
 was renowned as a brave and skilful 
 commander, and if he ran away at 
 the battle of Pataye, it was in the 
 good company of Talbot and Scales. 
 On a former occasion he beat, against 
 immense odds, the " brave " Dunois 
 at the battle of the Herrings, so 
 called because Fastolfe was attacked 
 when escorting a supply of salt fish 
 to the English army, then starving 
 before the walls of Orleans. 
 
 Fastolfe enjoyed many offices of 
 trust. He was the kings lieutenant 
 in Normandy, ambassador to the 
 council of Basle, and executor to 
 the Kegent Duke of Bedford, whose 
 ward he had been in his youth. In 
 his latter years he lived in great state 
 in his castle at Caister, which was 
 furnished with unusual splendour, 
 and over which he ruled vigorously, 
 swearing " by blackberd and white- 
 berd " (" black beard and white 
 beard") that his household j should 
 discharge their duties properly. On 
 his death (aged 82), in 1459, the 
 Pastons, his kinsmen, took possession 
 of Caister ; but Thomas Mowbray, 
 Duke of Norfolk, declared that Sir 
 John had given it to him, " and that 
 he would have it plainly." John 
 Paston held it for more than a year, 
 after which the duke besieged it 
 
 with 3000 men, and compelled the 
 garrison to surrender. After the 
 duke's death, in 1475, Sir John 
 Paston recovered it ; and the Pastons 
 remained here until 1599, when they 
 removed to Oxnead (Rte. 4). It 
 was from and to Caister that the 
 greater part of the Paston letters 
 wore written and sent. William of 
 Worcester, whose ' Itinerary' is one of 
 the earliest records of English travel, 
 was Sir John Fastolfe's secretary. 
 He did not favour the duke's claims, 
 and writes to one of the Pastons that 
 Caister is " a rich jewel, at need for 
 all tlie country in time of war ; and 
 my master Fastolfe would rather he 
 had never builded it than it should 
 be in the governance of any sove- 
 reign that will oppress the country." 
 The castle itself stands on a 
 slight elevation on the border of a 
 fiat marshy common, near enough to 
 the sea for it to be recorded in one 
 of the Paston letters that "certain 
 pirates had come up to the land, and 
 played them on Caister sands, as 
 homely as they were Englishmen." 
 The building is said to have formed 
 a double quadrangle, but only one 
 can be traced at present. Of this 
 the AV. and N. walls, and portions of 
 the E. wall, remain. At one angle 
 is a graceful circular tower, of 
 brick, 100 ft. high. A row of win- 
 dows in the W. wall marks the 
 site of the great hall. The whole 
 is surrounded by a moat, and the 
 decay into which it was fast falling 
 has been arrested, so far as was 
 possible, by the present proprietor. 
 Parts of the ruin, especially the 
 round tower, grey with age, in union 
 with the fine trees around it, will 
 delight the artist. Caister was one 
 of the earliest large buildings built 
 of brick after the Eoman use of that 
 material had been discontinued. It 
 may be compared with Hurstmon- 
 ceux Castle in Sussex, also of brick, 
 and also built by a knight who had 
 been present at Agincourt (Sir Boger 
 de Fienes). 
 
Norfolk. Boute o.-^Nonvicli to North Walsliam. 
 
 235 
 
 A '' lool^-out," a sort of sentry-box 
 on beams, some 60 ft. high, is con- 
 spicuous on the sand hills near the 
 village of Caister. There are similar 
 erections on diflerent parts of this 
 coast. 
 
 EOUTE 3. 
 
 NORWICH TO NORTH .WALSHAM. 
 
 There is no railway. A coach 
 leaves Norwich daily for North Wals- 
 ham. The distance is 14 m. 
 
 The country through which the 
 coach passes is very similar to that 
 between Norwich and Aylsham (Ete. 
 4). After crossing the little stream 
 of the Hor, at 4 m. (it falls into the 
 Bure) the Eiver Bure itself is crossed 
 at 7 m. Horstead. 
 
 ^ m. up the stream is Great Haut- 
 hois, or Hobbies, where was the shrine 
 of a certain St. Theobald, " St. Teb- 
 bald of Hobbies." At Horstead, pil- 
 grims visited a famous image of " Our 
 Lady of Pity." 
 
 i m. clown the stream is Coltisliall, 
 a large village, where many river 
 wherries are built. (This is a good 
 point from which to " take water," 
 and visit the *' broads ;" see Exc. from 
 Yarmouth, Ete. 2.) (BelaugJi Ch., 
 lower down on the Bure, stands high, 
 and the " steeple house " gave great 
 offence to a zealous Puritan in the 
 days of the Eoundheads from its posi- 
 tion, "perked like one of the idola- 
 
 trous high places of Israel." The 
 screen, wrote this worthy personage 
 to Sheriff Tofts at Norwich, "hath 
 12 Apostles, their faces rubbed out 
 by a godly trooper from Hobbies," 
 but there was still, he thought, room 
 for much " improvement.") 
 
 At 11 m. Westivich Sail is passed 
 rt. 
 
 14 m. North Walsliavi is a small 
 market town (Pop. 2896), with a re- 
 markable Ch. (St. Nicholas), A 
 former ch. was destroyed in the re- 
 bellion of 1381 (see Norwich, Ete. 
 1), when "Jolm the Littester," the 
 " dyer " of Norwich, was routed here 
 by the young martial and Bishop 
 Spencer. The present building 
 (Perp.) was then erected. Here are 
 a very fine S. porch of squared 
 flint and ashlar (on it are the 
 royal arms differenced by a label, 
 and generally assigned to John 
 of Gaunt), a font with a lofty cover 
 in tabernacle work, and the ruins 
 of a tower, 147 ft. high, which 
 fell in 1724 and 1835. In the ch. 
 are remains of the lower part of the 
 rood-screen, finely carved, with traces 
 of painted saints upon its panels. 
 There is also a good carved pulpit. 
 On the N. side of the chancel is the 
 tomb of Sir W. Paston (d. 1608), 
 founder of the Grammar School, in 
 which Archbp. Tenison and Lord 
 Nelson were partly educated. Sii" W. 
 Paston's monument was set up in his 
 life-time. It cost £200, and was the 
 work of John Key, a freemason, of 
 London. Henry Headley (d. 1788), 
 still remembered by his poems and 
 his critical judgments, was the only 
 son of a vicar of North Walsham. 
 In the ch. is a monument to his 
 memory. 
 
 The market cross was erected by 
 Bishop Thirlby in the reign of Ed- 
 ward VI. ; and on the heath, 1 m. 
 on the Norwich, road a cross comme- 
 morates the great fight of 1381. The 
 approach of Bishop Spencer (see 
 Ete. 1) had driven Littester and his 
 
236 
 
 Boiite 3. — Worstead — Tunstead. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 band from before Norwich. They 
 re-assembled on N. Walsham Heath, 
 where they strongly fortified their 
 camp, setting rough boards, doors, 
 and tables " on the rampive of their 
 trench," and placing their carriages 
 behind them, " as if they meant not to 
 flee." They were vigorously attacked 
 by the bishop, who, " taking a spear 
 in his hand, set spurs to his horse. . . . 
 went quickly over the ditches, and 
 laid so about him that he quickly 
 made way for his company to follow." 
 A sharp battle ensued, and when, 
 at last, the rebels turned to fly, they 
 were stopped by their own carriages. 
 Great numbers fell. Many, with 
 Litte.ster hunself, were taken. As 
 the leader, he Avas at once con- 
 demned to be hanged and quartered. 
 The Bishop " heard his confession, 
 by virtue of his ofiice, absolved 
 him, and, to show some pity for the 
 man's misfortimes, went with him 
 to the scatfold." — Blomefield. The 
 quarters were set up, one on Littester's 
 own house at Norwich, one in 
 London, one at Lynn, and one at 
 Yarmouth. 
 Much flax is grown in this district. 
 
 [Finer and more interesting than 
 North Walsham Ch. is that of Wor- 
 stead, 3 m. S.E. This place, now a 
 small village, is noticeable from its 
 having given name to the well-known 
 woollen fabric, which at an early 
 period was manufactured here by 
 Flemish workmen. At what time 
 the Flemish colonists were first intro- 
 duced here is not evident ; but they 
 had become numerous and important 
 before the reign of Edward III. 
 "Worstead" thus belongs to the 
 same class of " words and places" as 
 Calcutta (calico), Cambrai (cambric) ; 
 Arras, Duft'el, and many others. The 
 trade, and the Flemings with it, 
 afterwards shifted to Norwich, and 
 thence to the North of England. 
 
 During the flourishing period of 
 Worstead, the Church of St. Mary 
 was built. It is one of the finest in 
 
 the county, and, dating from the 
 latter half of the 14tli cent., is 
 of Transitional character (Dec. to 
 Perp.). It has a fine Dec. tower 
 (remark the beautiful " sound-holes " 
 witli their tracery), and a Perp. 
 nave, spanned by a remarkable 
 hammer-beamed roof, 32^ ft. wide, 
 divided from the chancel by a rood- 
 screen and loft (erected by bequest 
 of John Alabaster and wife, 1520). 
 Across the arch under the W. tower 
 extends a beautiful gallery not un- 
 like a rood-loft (compare those at 
 Salle and Cawston, Ete, 4), un- 
 usually perfect, and of very delicate 
 workmanship, set up by bequest, 
 1512. The modern paintings of 
 Virtues on this gallery are Isy an 
 accomplished Norfolk artist, Mrs. 
 Gunn, and ai'e coijied from Sir J. 
 Beijnolds. The rood stair remains. 
 At the E. end of the N. aisle are the 
 remains of a carved reredos above the 
 altar of St. John the Baptist. The 
 S. porch is richly carved and groined, 
 and has an upper chamber. Here is 
 a very good Perp. font and elegant 
 tabernacle cover. The original vestry 
 (late Perp., circ. 1460), is figured in 
 Parker's ' Glossary.' 
 
 Tunstead Church, 3 m. S. of Wor- 
 stead, has some fine and graceful 
 ironwork remaining on its S. door. 
 The aisle windows (trans, from Dec. 
 to Perp.) are noticeable. Behind the 
 altar is a raised platform, against tlie 
 E. wall, and extending across the 
 chancel. It is about 1 yard wide. A 
 few stairs on the N. side lead to it. 
 S. is an entrance, with steps. Thus 
 it forms a narrow cell, lighted from 
 above by a grating. Its use is un- 
 known. It may have been a pas- 
 sage connected with the exhibition of 
 some special relic; but it is not 
 known that Tunstead possessed any 
 of importance. 
 
 The N. wall of Beeston Church, 1 
 m. S. of Tunstead, has been re- 
 garded as earlier than the Conquest, 
 it has herring-bone masonry, and 
 long and short work.] 
 
KoRFOLK. JRoiite 3. -^Ingham — Truncli^-^Mimdesley. 
 
 2or7 
 Ot 
 
 [6 m. E. of Worstead is Ingham, 
 ouce a scat of the Gresbams, Here 
 Stotbard found two of bis finest 
 monumental effigies, the best of 
 wbicb is tbat of Sir Oliver Ingbam 
 in armour (d. 1343), lying on a 
 rock as if sbipwrecked ; behind are 
 the remains of paintings. Sir Oliver, 
 although he bad been one of Morti- 
 mer's adherents, and bad been ar- 
 rested in 1330 (when Mortimer 
 himself was taken at Nottingham), 
 became afterwards (1336) Edward 
 III.'s seneschal in Gascony, and was 
 one of the first Knights of the Garter. 
 The second effigy is that of Sir 
 Roger de Bois (with that of his wife). 
 Here were also fine brasses of Sir 
 Miles Stapleton (d. 13G5), and Joan, 
 his wife, bis right hand in hers ; and 
 of Sir Bryan Stapleton, and Cecilia, 
 his wife. Some fragments of these 
 brasses remain in keeping of the 
 incumbent. The Ch., wbicb is Dec. 
 and fine, is strangely disfigured and 
 neglected. Adjoining are the re- 
 mains of the collegiate buildings, 
 founded for canons, whose special 
 duty was to pray for Christian cap- 
 tives. " A broken stair, fragments of 
 arches, one of which crosses the path 
 with a sweep of ivy, a picturesque 
 old oak, and a magnificent thorn, 
 present us with a variety of pleasing 
 effects."— TF/i/^e's ' Eastern Eng.'] 
 
 From North Walsham the tourist 
 may " take water " on the River Ant, 
 (1 m. distant), and begin an excur- 
 sion southwards, among the broads 
 (see Ete. 2, Exc. (a) from Yarmouth). 
 Boats are to be hired at most of the 
 villages. The coast between Trim- 
 Ingbam and Happisburgh may also 
 be explored from here. The chief 
 points of interest on tlie coast are 
 Paston, Bacton (where are the ruins 
 of Bromholm Priory), and Mundesley. 
 
 Proceeding from North Walsham 
 to Mimdesley, after crossing the 
 canalised river Ant (at Antingham, 
 near its source, are two parish 
 churches in one enclosure, one, St. 
 
 Mary's, in ruins), at 3 m. the Ch. of 
 Trunch is passed, rt. This is one 
 of a cluster of churches of which the 
 local rhyme runs — 
 
 " Gimmingham, Trimmingham, Knaptou, and 
 Trunch, 
 North Repps, and South Repps, are all of a 
 bunch." 
 
 Trunch Ch. is interesting. It has 
 much rich woodwork, and a very fine 
 open roof (Perp.). , Tlie font is placed 
 within a remarkable "baptistery" 
 or enclosure of wood. The entire 
 canopy rests, not on the font, but on 
 6 slender wooden pillars beyond it. 
 The whole has been gilt and coloured, 
 and is of late Perp. date. At Luton, 
 in Bedfordshire, is a similar erection 
 in stone. The font itself is late Dec. 
 The chancel-screen has figures of the 
 Apostles on its lower panels ; and an 
 inscription above fixes the date, 1502. 
 The buttress over the priests' door on 
 the S. side of the chancel should be 
 noticed. It exhibits an ingenious 
 device for rendering picturesque a 
 necessary evil. (There is a rich open 
 and coloured roof of the Perp. period 
 at Kuapton, 1 m. W. of Trunch. 
 The S. porch, early Dec, is notice- 
 able for its grace. The nave win- 
 dows and arches are semicirc, the 
 mouldings Dec, the tracery Perp. 
 — a ctuious mixture of ages. 
 
 At Edingthorpe, 2 m. S.E., is a 
 good Dec. screen. Willow Church, 
 S. of Edingthorpe, has a round tower 
 with a quoining of rough carr-stone. 
 There are two small, round-headed, 
 doubly sjilayed windows in the wall 
 above the N. door of the nave. These 
 may perhaps be Saxon. The old 
 wall terminates at the base of the 
 present range of clerestory windows.) 
 
 Mundesley, 2 m. beyond Trunch, 
 is a small watering-place, far more 
 quiet tlian even Cromer, with fewer 
 attractions, and, of course, with less 
 good accommodation. A sea wall 
 forms an upper and lower terrace, 
 
238 
 
 BoiiteS. — Miindesley — Cromer — Paston. Sect. 111. 
 
 and supports the cliff. At Mun- 
 desley occurs a remarkable depres- 
 sion, hollowed out of older beds 
 (the forest bed, the lignite, the 
 boulder clay, and drifts — see these 
 described in Ete. 4, Cromer), and 
 filled with a fresh-water formation, 
 more recent than the glacial period 
 (to whicli the boulder clay belongs), 
 and agreeing with the deposits at 
 Hoxnc (Suffolk, Ete. 9), and with 
 the Bedford gravel. The Mundesley 
 basin exhibits, first, coarse river 
 gravel ; tlien a black peaty deposit, 
 with fresh-water shells, seeds, fisli, 
 and insects — all identical with living 
 British species — then yellow sands, 
 and a capping of drift gravel. This 
 hollow seems to have been cut 
 through the more ancient beds (once 
 continuous) by a river, during the 
 gradiTal upheaval of the land after 
 the glacial period. No flint imple- 
 ments have as yet been found here ; 
 but as the formation agrees so closely 
 with that of Hoxne there seems no 
 improbability that such traces of 
 human labour may be discovered at 
 Mundesley. (See Ltjell, 'Ant. of 
 Man,' ch. xii.) 
 
 The poet Cowper was for some 
 time at Mundesley in the autumn of 
 1795, when his mind had become 
 hopelessly clouded. He had been 
 here in his youth, and now " found 
 something inexpressibly soothing in 
 the monotonous sound of the break- 
 ers." His walks " were confined 
 almost wholly to the sands, which at 
 IMundesley are remarkably firm and 
 level." "At two miles' distance on 
 the coast," he WTites to Lady Hesketh, 
 " is a solitary pillar of rock, that the 
 crumbling clifl" has left as the high- 
 water mark. I have visited it twice, 
 and have found it an emblem of my- 
 self. Torn from my natm'al connec- 
 tions, I stand alone, and expect the 
 storm tliat shall displace me." 
 
 Cromer is distant 7 m. ; and the 
 pedestrian may find liis w^ay thither 
 along the clifls. "The frequent 
 stiles made of old ship-timber are 
 
 suggestive of wrecks. The path is 
 thickly bordered by "luck," as the 
 natives call the pretty yellow flower 
 of the kidney vetch, and the lotus, 
 and red and white campion. And 
 the cliflf is so irregular with many 
 slips, foreshores, patches of grass and 
 coltsfoot, and slopes of gray, red, 
 and yellow, and a grassy underclift', 
 with a pond in the hollow, and a 
 marly blufi", and gullies and chines, 
 as to look strikingly picturesque." — 
 White's ' Eastern England.' 
 
 2 m. S. of Mundesley, and I m. 
 from the sea, is Paston, the chief 
 seat of the Paston family before they 
 removed to Oxnead (Ete. 4). A 
 bam represents the old house, from 
 which were written many of the 
 famous letters, whose authenticity 
 has within the last few years been 
 l^roved beyond all question. Pirates, 
 writes Agnes Paston to her son, 
 " have thys weke takyn iiij vesselys 
 of Wyntyrton, and Happisborough, 
 and Ecles. Men be sore aferd for 
 takyn of me for ther ben x grete 
 vesselys of the enemyis. God geve 
 grace that the see may be better 
 kepte than it is now, or ellys it shall 
 ben a perylous dwellyng by the se 
 cost," In the Church lies buried Sir 
 Wm. Paston, a judge in the reig-n of 
 Henry IV. ; and Erasmus Paston, d. 
 1538, over whom is a brass. Here 
 also are 3 monuments, by Nicholas 
 Stone, to Sir Edward, Sir Edmund, 
 (cost lOOZ.), and to Lady Catherine 
 Paston. This last was set up in 1629, 
 and for it the sculptor received 340Z. 
 
 The cliff of Paston is high, and a 
 long line of coast is visible. On the 
 beach between Mundesley and Bac- 
 ton, a remarkable coin, looped and 
 in a jewelled setting, was found in 
 1845. It is an am-eus of Mauricius 
 Tiberius, Emperor of the East, 582- 
 602. (See it figured* in 'Xorf. 
 Archseol.' vol. i. It is now iu the 
 British Museum.) 
 
 JBadon is about 1 m. S.E. of Pas- 
 ton. In this parish are the remains 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 itoute 3. — BromJiolm Priory. 
 
 239 
 
 of Bromholm Priory, founded in 
 1113, by William de Glanville, for 
 Cluniac monks, and attached as a cell 
 to the Castle Acre Priory. It was 
 made independent by Pope Celes- 
 tino v., in 1298. This remote priory 
 rejoiced in the possession of a remark- 
 able relic, called " the Eood of Brom- 
 holm," purporting to be (or to con- 
 tain) a portion of the true cross. Its 
 history is told at length by Matthew 
 Paris, who says, that after Baldwin 
 of Flanders, Emperor of Constanti- 
 nople, had been defeated and taken 
 prisoner at Adrianople, in 1205, his 
 chaplain, an Englishman, fled from 
 Constantinople, carrying witli him 
 many relics from the Imperial chapel, 
 among them a cross, " formed of two 
 pieces of wood placed across one 
 another, and almost as wide as a 
 mans hand," which he declared on 
 oath to be undoubtedly a piece of 
 the tnie cross. With these relics he 
 came to England. The Benedictines 
 of St. Alban's bought " two fingers of 
 St. Margaret," and other treasures, 
 but would not buy the cross, in the 
 authenticity of which they disbe- 
 lieved. It was then otFered to other 
 religious houses, but none would 
 buy it, until the chaplain reached 
 Bromholm, where the prior and 
 brethren gladly accepted it, on the 
 condition of receiving into their 
 house the chaplain and his two 
 young children. Bromholm was 
 then very poor, and without good 
 buildings. In 1223 the relic began 
 to manifest its reality. Miracles 
 were performed, the fame of which 
 spread far and wide. Pilgrims 
 flocked to Bromholm; and in 1233 
 Henry HI. visited this place with 
 his court, and granted the prior "a 
 fair." Piers Ploughman refers to 
 the relic — 
 
 " And bidde the Roode of Bromholm 
 Bryng me out of dette " — 
 
 which it was hardly likely to do, any 
 more than to respond to the call of 
 the miller's wife in Chaucer — 
 " Helpe, holy crois of Bromeholme ! " 
 
 The ruins of the priory stand 
 within a farmyard, and are by no 
 means too much cared for. The 
 precinct is entered by a gatehouse, 
 the lower part of which is Trans. 
 Norm., the upper Perp. The chief 
 existing remains are those of the N. 
 transept of the ch., the dormitory, 
 and the chapter-house. All are 
 crumbling and exposed to injury, 
 though picturesque with ivy and 
 wild flowers; and the transept is 
 converted into a shed for farm pm-- 
 poses. It stands apart from the rest, 
 and is Norm. — no doubt a part of the 
 small and poor building which 
 existed before tlie priory acquired, 
 the rood. The wealth which the pil- 
 grims brought to Bromholm enabled 
 the brethren to rebuild the greater 
 part of their priory, and the ruined 
 dormitory and chapter - house are 
 Ear. Eng. The fireplace in the 
 vaulted room below the dormitory 
 seems to prove that, as usual, the 
 f rater house, the " common room " of 
 the monks, was placed there. The cb. 
 was cruciform. (A grouDd-plan, and 
 a careful account of tlie remains, will 
 be found in Harrod's 'Castles and 
 Convents of Norfolk.') The Pastons 
 were great patrons of Bromholm; 
 and Sir John Paston, who died in 
 1466, was brought here from London, 
 and interred with great pomp, and 
 a vast consumption of pigs, calves, 
 " note," and other provisions. " A 
 barber was occupied five days in 
 smartening up the monks for the 
 ceremony ; and ' the reke of the 
 torches at the dirge' was so great 
 that tlie glazier had to remove two 
 panes to permit the fumes to escape." 
 — Harrod, At the Dissolution the 
 site was granted to Sir Thomas 
 Wodehouse, whose representative, 
 the Earl of Kimberley, is the present 
 owner. 
 
 From Bacton to Happishurgh 
 (called Hazeborough), the distance is 
 4 m. There are 2 lighthouses at 
 Happishurgh, where Dr. Parr was 
 once vicar (1775). The Ch. is Perp., 
 
240 
 
 Houte 4. — Norwich to Cromer. 
 
 Sect. Ill, 
 
 with a lofty tower. Off the coast 
 here a sub-marine forest lias been 
 found, in which fossil remains of 
 numerous trees and plants are as- 
 sociated with bones of rhinoceros, 
 elephant, hippopotamus, and other 
 extinct animals isee Cromer, in the 
 following route ; and Introd. ' Geo- 
 logy '). The cliffs here cease, and the 
 coast to Yarmouth becomes low and 
 sandy. (For a notice of this coast, 
 see Kte. 2.) 
 
 EOUTE 4. 
 
 NORWICH TO CROMER BY AYLSHAM. 
 
 (The north-eastern portion of Nor- 
 folk is without railroads. A coach 
 leaves the Royal Hotel, in the Market 
 Place, at Norwicli, daily during the 
 summer for Cromer. It leaves Nor- 
 wich at 5 P.M., reaching Cromer 
 about 8. The distance is 22J m. 
 A coach starts from Cromer for Nor- 
 wich every morning at 7.) 
 
 The drive from Norwich to Cromer 
 is a pleasant one. Besides afford- 
 ing the novelty of a journey by 
 coach, it will give a very good notion 
 of the scenery of this part of Nor- 
 folk. 
 
 At first the country is uninterest- 
 ing. 1. there is a view of the Wen- 
 sum and of Costessey "Woods, but 
 there is nothing calling for special 
 notice until (7 m.) the road enters 
 the woods and plantations of Siratton 
 StraivUss (C. R. Marsham, Esq.). 
 
 This place has been held by the 
 Marshams since the reign of Edward 
 I. The Hall, which is seen from the 
 road, was built toward the end of 
 the 17th centy. The plantations 
 were chiefly made by a IMarsham 
 who died in 1 797, and, although of 
 no great age, are woodlike, and open 
 into glades making pleasant pictures. 
 The ground is perfectly flat, and the 
 road is bordered by these woods for 
 some distance. Near the house are 
 some large and ancient trees — a 
 cedar of Lebanon, the trunk of which 
 rises 44 ft. before throwing out a 
 branch, and at 26 ft. from the ground 
 is 12 ft. in girth; 11 silver firs 
 above 100 ft. high; a holly nearly 
 60 ft. ; a beech, 18 ft. in girth, and 
 some noble oaks. The Ch. (of which 
 the tower was rebuilt in the 15th 
 centy.) contains a cross-legged figure 
 in mail, supposed to be Sir Ralph 
 Marsham (d. 12o0), a figure of Thos. 
 Marsham (d. 1638) in a shroud, and 
 in the Marsham Chapel a monument 
 with several figures. 
 
 1 m. beyond Stratton, Eevingham 
 Ch. (Dec. and Perp.) is passed, rt., 
 and at 
 
 9 m. is Marsliam Ch. Here is a 
 font on which the 7 Sacraments are 
 carved, and there is some stained 
 glass in the windows. 
 
 [2 m. rt. is Oxnead, the property of 
 Sir Edward Stracey, Bart., where 
 Avas Oxnead Hall, a stately seat of 
 the Pastons, built by Sir Clement 
 Paston in the reign of Elizabeth, 
 but now pulled down, with the 
 exception of some offices converted 
 into a barn, and a stack of chimneys. 
 Nicholas Stone here put up one of 
 his famous chimney-pieces in 1632. 
 Charles II. paid a visit to Robert 
 Paston, then Viscount, and after- 
 wards Earl of Yarmouth, at Oxnead 
 in 1676. "Paston," wrote one 
 Matthew Stevenson, 
 
 " To Oxney did his sovereign bring 
 And like Araunah offered to the king." 
 
^orf6lk\ 
 
 Boute 4. — Oxneaci — Aijlsham. 
 
 241 
 
 The house is said to have resembled 
 Irmingliam in this county. The 
 fountain-basin and statues were re- 
 moved to Bliekliug, and but 2 oaks 
 out of a fine avenue have been spared. 
 Sir Clement Paston, the builder of 
 the house (died 1597), has a tomb 
 in the chancel of the church, -which 
 is sadly neglected. It was this 
 Sir Clement who was called Ijy 
 Henry VIII. his " champion," by 
 the iProtector Somerset his " sol- 
 dier," by Queen Mary her " sea- 
 man," and by Queen Elizabeth her 
 " father." He was " a man of great 
 stomach and courage," and " during 
 his warlike services he took a French 
 galley, and in it the Admiral of 
 France, called Baron St. Blancard, 
 whom he brought into Englande, and 
 kept him at Castor by Yarmoutli 
 till he paid for his ransome seven 
 thousand crownes, over and beside 
 the spoile of the said galleye ; where, 
 among other things he had a cuppe 
 and two snakes of gould, which were 
 the said Baron St. Blancard's ; the 
 which, during his life, he did upon 
 high dales weare ; and after left the 
 same as a monument to his name." 
 On his altar-tomb in the ch. he is 
 figm-ed in armour, bare-headed, his 
 wife kneeling by him. On the wall 
 is a long notice, in verse, of his 
 doings; and his great act is duly 
 recorded : — 
 
 " A. peer of France, in spite of all his betters, 
 He toolc in fight, and brought him home iu 
 fetters."] 
 
 There is a wide and striking view 
 over the country N. and N.E., ex- 
 tending nearly to the coast (which 
 is only hidden by the rise of the sea 
 cliffs j just before entering 
 
 12 m. Aylsham (Pop. 2448 ; Inns : 
 Black Boys, Dog), standing in a rich, 
 pleasant, and well-wooded country, 
 called the "Garden of Norfolk." 
 The River Bure, on which this town 
 is situated, is navigable for barges 
 hence to Yarmouth. During the 
 reigns of Edwards II. and III. this 
 
 was a chief seat of the linen manu- 
 facture, and " Aylsham webs " were 
 widely known. To this succeeded 
 the woollen trade, which has, in turn, 
 disappeared, and now but few looms 
 are found at work. 
 
 The Ch., of which John of Gaunt 
 is the reputed founder, is Dec. (main 
 arcade, of which the piers are alter- 
 nately circ. and octagonal, and clere- 
 story) and Perp. (chancel, windows 
 of aisles, and S. transept). The pro- 
 portions of the ch. are unusually 
 good. It has been lately restored 
 with tolerable judgment, and some 
 windows of modern stained glass (in- 
 difterent) have been introduced. The 
 aisle windows are set in arches, which 
 indicate either that the ch. had once 
 outer aisles or that provision was 
 made for then addition. The fine 
 font, with a Crucifixion, emblems of 
 the Passion and of the Evangelists, 
 and the lion of John of Gaunt, has 
 been restored. The pulpit is Ja- 
 cobaean. On the screen is the date 
 1507. The roof of the S. transept 
 retains much of its old colouring, 
 with crowned Ms and other devices. 
 A famous window of ancient glass, 
 representing the Salutation, which 
 once existed here, was sold by a 
 former vicar. There are one or two 
 brasses worth notice, among them 
 that of Thomas Wymer (d. 1507) in 
 shroud. He was a worsted weaver, 
 and gave the screen to the ch. John 
 Jegon (Bp. of Norwich, 1602-1617), 
 died at Aylsham, and is bmied in the 
 chancel. 
 
 The S. porch and tower are late, 
 Dec. In the churchyard, within a 
 small enclosure laid out as a garden, 
 is buried Humphrey Repton (died 
 1818) the well-known landscape gar- 
 dener. On a tablet are the lines — 
 
 " Not like Egyptian tyrants consecrate. 
 Unmixed with others shall my dust remain ; 
 But mold'ring, blending, melting into earth, 
 I\Iine shall give form and colour to the rose ; 
 And while its vivid blossoms cheer manliind, 
 Its perfumed odours shall ascend to heaven." 
 
 [A very interesting excursion may 
 
 M 
 
242 
 
 Boiite 4. — Cawston — Salle. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 be made from Aylsliam to the clis, 
 of Cairsfo7i and Salle, returning: by 
 BUclding. The round will be about 
 7 m. 
 
 From Aylsham to Cawston the 
 road passes through a wooded coun- 
 try, not very picturesque, but bright 
 in spring with the golden flowers of 
 tlie broom, flourishing in this sandy 
 soil. Cmvston Ch. is a very fine 
 Perp, building, on no account to be 
 neglected by the antiquary. The 
 tower is possibly earlier than the 
 rest of the ch. The clerestory of 
 the nave, at any rate, is later than 
 the tower, for on the interior of the 
 tower is the mark of the original 
 roof, below the wall of the clerestory. 
 But the whole ch. is Perp., and the 
 interval between the several portions 
 cannot be great. A fine Perp. arch 
 opens to the tower, tlie lowest story 
 of which forms a gallery, open to the 
 ch. The font is octagonal, on a raised 
 base. Some of the old bench-ends 
 remain, and are very good ; but the 
 glory of the nave is its magnificent 
 open roof, one of the finest of its 
 date in England. It has double 
 hammer-beams, the lower arches of 
 which are carried on wooden shafts, 
 rising between the clerestory lights. 
 Along the cornice runs a string of 
 somewhat grotesque cherubs with 
 outspread wings, a type which is of 
 frequent occurrence in Norfolk and 
 Suffolk. (A species of shark with 
 remarkable dorsal fins is called an 
 "angel" by the Southwold fisher- 
 men, no doubt from its resemblance 
 to the ch. figures, once familiar to 
 them.) Full-length angels, display- 
 ing the heavenly hierarchy, rest on 
 the projecting beams. The cornice 
 below them (small shields and fleurs- 
 de-lys) should be noticed, as well 
 as the bosses of the roof. The 
 screen retains its doors, on which, 
 as seems to have been usual, are the 
 4 Doctors of the Church. Other saints 
 are painted in the lower panels on 
 either side, including (but nearly 
 obliterated) Sir John Shorne, an 
 
 Augustinian canon of Dunstaple to- 
 ward the end of the 13th centy., 
 who is said to have " conveyed the 
 devil into a boot," and who was 
 "much sowght for the agew." He 
 is represented on this and on other 
 E. Anglian rood-screens holding a 
 boot, from which a small diabolical 
 figure emerges. (His shrine was at 
 North Marston, Bucks, of which 
 parish he was rector.) The scrolls 
 and other patterns painted on the 
 screen are all worthy of notice. On 
 the S. side of the chancel is a 
 sacristy, now used as a morning 
 chapel. The aisle roofs, and that 
 of the S. transept, are original. On 
 the exterior remark the gurgoyles 
 and parapet, the buttresses of panel- 
 led flint, the sanctus-bell on the E. 
 gable of the nave, and the massive 
 tower with its fine buttresses. There 
 is an inscription over the N. door of 
 the nave. 
 
 Cawston, worth 10507. a year, is 
 one of the best of the Norfolk livings. 
 It is in the gift of Pembroke Hall, 
 Cambridge. 
 
 The road from Cawston to Salle 
 skirts Salle Park (the Rev. Sir E. R. 
 Jodrell, Bart.). A branch road 
 turns rt. to Salle. (The main road 
 continues J m. to Beepham Ch., 
 w^here is the fine cross-legged effigy, 
 engraved by Stothard, of Sir Roger 
 de^Kerdestou (d. 1337). The small 
 figures of " weepers " on the tomb 
 are good examples of costume.) 
 
 Salle Ch. (pronounced saul ; it is 
 tlie Anglo-Saxon sal — a willow ; the 
 ploce was, no doubt, named from some 
 large tree or trees of that species) 
 is throughout Perp. It stands on 
 high ground (for this part of Eng- 
 land), and commands a wide view. 
 The piers and arches are light and 
 lofty. Tlie timber roof was never 
 so rich as that at Cawston, but 
 much of the original painting (pow- 
 dering of I H S and crowned 
 IMs) remains. The roofs of chan- 
 cel and transepts have been richer, 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Houte 4. — BUcMing Hall. 
 
 243 
 
 and tlie carved bosses of the former 
 (tlie subjects from the life of our 
 Lord) should be specially noticed. 
 Stalls and misereres, well carved, 
 remtiin in the chancel. (Observe 
 the stone platform on which they 
 are raised.) Only the lower part 
 of the screen remains, and the 
 figures are nearly obliterated. The 
 open-work spandrels in the roof of 
 the nave aisles are good. The 
 font, on which are the 7 Sacra- 
 ments, has a lofty and light cover, 
 suspended by a projecting beam from 
 the gallery, which, as at Cawston, 
 opens from the tower. The wood- 
 work of this gallery and the font- 
 cover retain colour. Eound the lower 
 step of the font is an inscription re- 
 cording Thomas Luce, his wife, and 
 their son Thomas the chaplain, who 
 gave the font. There is no date. 
 
 There are some fragments of stained 
 glass in the chancel and N. tran- 
 sept. In the latter is a brass for 
 Thomas Eouse and wife (1441). In 
 the nave is that (small) of Galfridus 
 Boleyne (d. 1440) and wife, ances- 
 tors of Anne Boleyn, who is said 
 (but quite untruly) to have been in- 
 terred in this ch. Without, remark 
 the terminations of the buttresses, 
 rising above the parapet of the chan- 
 cel (on each is an angel with the 
 wings thrown backward) ; the N. and 
 S. porches, both with upper cham- 
 bers, and retaining the original 
 doors; and the lofty tower, with 
 fine portal and enriched parapet. 
 The W. doors of the tower are ori- 
 ginal. The general character of the 
 country is well seen from the tower 
 of either Cawston or Salle. 
 
 Both of these chs. are excellent 
 examples of Norfolk Perp., with 
 noble roofs, peculiar tower galleries, 
 and much heraldic stonework. Both 
 are happily unrestored, but while 
 Cawston Ch. is fairly cared for, that 
 of Salle seems to be in a state of 
 disgraceful neglect. Some of the 
 window's are closed, and the condi- 
 tion of the chancel is (1868) lament- 
 
 able. In the open roof of both chs. 
 the swallow " hath found her an 
 house," and hosts of bats shelter 
 themselves. 
 
 Heydon Hall, seen 1. in passing by 
 cross-roads from Salle to Blickling, 
 is the seat of W. E. L. Bulwer, Esq., 
 elder brother of Lord Lytton. It is 
 an ancient jjossession of the Bulwers. 
 The house was built in 1581. It 
 stands in a park rich in fine elms 
 and sycamores. 
 
 Bliclding Hall (Marquess of Lo- 
 thian), one of the finest old brick 
 mansions in the country, was begun 
 by Chief Justice Hobart, in the 
 reign of James I., but was not com- 
 pleted until 1628. The W. front 
 was burnt down and rebuilt in 1769, 
 from the sale of jewels bequeathed 
 for that purpose by Mary Anne, 
 daughter of Sir Thomas Drury, and 
 wife of the Earl of Buckinghamshire, 
 that title having been conferred on 
 John Hobart in 1746. (The present 
 W. front is poor and meagre in com- 
 parison with the other sides of the 
 house.) Blickling possesses a spe- 
 cial interest as having been anciently 
 the seat of the Boleyns, and (as is 
 supposed by Spelman, Blomefield, 
 and others, on good grounds) the 
 birthplace of Anne Boleyn, who is 
 known to have spent her early years 
 here, down to 1512. But no part of 
 the existing building can be identi- 
 fied with her time. (There is a 
 local tradition that Sir Thomas 
 Boleyn, father of Queen Anne, 
 drives forth once a year, carrying his 
 own head under his arm, in a coach 
 drawn by 4 headless horses, and 
 makes a circuit of 12 bridges near 
 Blickling.) The house (only shown 
 at present by special order) lies low, 
 with a public road passing near its 
 entrance front, the ch. adjoining, 
 and the scattered village beyond. It 
 thus fully represents the old village 
 arrangement, with the manor-house 
 presiding over all. The front, as 
 
 M 2 
 
244 
 
 Houie A.-^Blicldinrj Hall — Erjnnglia^n. Sect. III. 
 
 scon from the road, is very pic- 
 turesque, with rows of clipped yews 
 and lime-trees flanking it on either 
 side. 
 
 Externally, Blickling preserves its 
 ancient character unchanged. It is 
 moated, and encloses a double quad- 
 rangle. There are numerous pro- 
 jecting oriel windows and pointed 
 gables ; with a central porch in the 
 principal front, beneath a clock tower 
 (modern, of wood, and out of keep- 
 ing with the main building), and 
 square flanking pavilion turrets. 
 The entrance, bearing date 1626, 
 is a characteristic example of the 
 rich decorations of that period. Over 
 the oak door are the armorial ensigns 
 of Sir Henry Hobart, and the moat 
 is crossed by a stone bridge, flanked on 
 either hand by a rampant bull, bear- 
 ing a shield. The hall and grand 
 staircase of oak are of large dimen- 
 sions. In the hall are colossal wooden 
 statues of Anne Boleyn and Queen 
 Elizabeth. In the dining parlour 
 is a chimney-piece richly decorated 
 with family coats of arms. Another 
 ornamented chimney - piece was 
 brought from Sir Thomas Browne's 
 house at Norwich, and a third, in 
 the organ-room, was originally a 
 window-arch in Caister Castle. The 
 library, selected by Maittaire, is a 
 fine collection of about 10,000 vo- 
 lumes, chiefly classics, comprising a 
 splendid assemblage of works printed 
 by Aldus. There are here 2 copies 
 of Coverdale's Bible (neither quite 
 perfect), and the Sedan New Testa- 
 ment. The library itself is a beauti- 
 ful room, 320 ft. "long, with a mag- 
 nificent jacobsean ceiling. 
 
 Among niunerous family and 
 other portraits may be mentioned 
 Queen Elizabeth in a white embroi- 
 dered dress ; George II. on horse- 
 back, by Jervas and Wootton ; full- 
 lengths of Sir Eobert Walpolc and 
 his brother, Lord Walpole of Wolter- 
 ton ; Lady Suflblk (Hobart, mistress 
 of George II.), full-length ; Lord and 
 Lady Buckinghamshire, by Gains- 
 
 horouglt (fine); George III., Queen 
 Charlotte, and one or two more, by 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Sir John May- 
 nard, by Lely ; and a fine half-length 
 of Chief Justice Hobart, with an 
 embroidered cap in his hand, by 
 Vansomer. Tlie house contains spe- 
 cimens of Spanish, Chinese, and 
 Oriental embroideries of great beauty 
 and richness of colour. 
 
 On 3 sides the pleasure-garden 
 is surroimded by a terrace, com- 
 manding a fine view. The park is 
 extensive (with the grounds and 
 gardens it contains 1000 acres), well 
 timbered, traversed by venerable 
 avenues of oak and chesnut, and in- 
 cludes a sheet of water, nearly a 
 mile long and 400 yards broad, be- 
 sides a two-mile race-course, now 
 disused. About a mile from the 
 house is a pyramidal mausoleum in 
 which are interred an Earl of Buck- 
 inghamshire and his 2 wives. The 
 fountain and statues in the garden 
 came from Oxnead Hall. 
 
 The Cli. of St. Andrew, Perp. and 
 indifferent, contains the iDurial vault 
 of the Hobarts ; a monument to the 
 late Marquis of Lothian ; hrasses to 
 Sir N. Dagworth, 1401 ; Anna Bo- 
 leyn, a child, 1479 ; and 2 others.] 
 
 Leaving Aylsham for Cromer, the 
 woods of Blickling are seen 1. (the 
 house is not visible), and the Kiver 
 Bure is crossed, shortly before reach- 
 ing the village oi Ingicorth. (The 
 chancel of Ing worth Ch. is E. Eng., 
 the rest Perp. ; the lower part of a 
 round tower remains). 
 
 At 3 m. from Aylsham a road 
 turns 1. to Erplngham Ch., distant 
 I m. This ch. is worth a visit for 
 its own sake, as well as for the recol- 
 lections it suggests of tlie kniglitly 
 family who take their surname from 
 the parish. Their most famous 
 member was the Sir Thomas Erpriig- 
 ham who was active in the French 
 wars of Henry V., and was present 
 at Agincourt — 
 
Norfolk. Baute 4. — Woltertoii and Barningliam Halls. 245 
 
 " Good morrow, old Sir Thomas Erpingham : 
 A good soft pillow for that good white head 
 Were better than a churlish turf of France." 
 Ilcn. v., Act iv. So. 1. 
 
 He built the Erpingham Gate at 
 Norwich, and is bui'ied in the cathe- 
 dral (see Norwich, Rte. 1). The Ch. 
 at Erpingham is late Dec. with early 
 Perp. S. aisle (at the end of which is 
 the Erpingham Chantry) and tower. 
 The chief points of interest here are 
 — the brass of John of Erpingham 
 (d. 1370, but the brass not engraved 
 till circ. 1415; this, at the end of 
 the S. aisle, is large and fine ; it 
 was published by Cotman) ; and 
 the tower, the base of which is 
 panelled with shields. Above are 
 *' sound holes," as the round aper- 
 tures with tracery are here called, 
 and large windows. On the parapet 
 are crowned Ms, and a letter 
 between each, making up the word 
 " Erpingham." The " cote " for the 
 sanctus-bell remains at the end of 
 the nave, and the door in the S. 
 porch retains its (very good) ancient 
 ironwork. It seems probable that 
 the S. aisle and the tower were the 
 work of " old Sir Thomas" of Agin- 
 
 COU-l't. 
 
 [About 2 m. N.W. of Erpingham 
 is Wolterton Hall (Earl of Orford), 
 which contained until recently a 
 noble collection of pictures (de- 
 scribed by Waagen). These were 
 dispersed in 1859. Among them 
 was the famous " Rainbow " land- 
 scape by Rubens, for which Lord 
 Orford in 1823 gave 2600Z. Wolter- 
 ton, a brick house with stone dress- 
 ings, was built in 1736 by B'qjleij 
 for Horace, first Baron Walpole, 
 brother of Sir Robert. Horace 
 Walpole describes it as "one of 
 the best houses of the size in Eng- 
 land." " You know," he writes on 
 another occasion, "lam not preju- 
 diced in favour of the country, nor 
 like a place because it bears turnips 
 well, or because you may gallop over 
 it without meeting a tree; but I 
 
 really was charmed with Wolterton, 
 it is all wood and water." — Walpole 
 to Mann, Sept. 11, 1742. The park 
 and gardens, partly laid out by 
 Gilpin, command a fine view of 
 Blickling. There is a noble double 
 avenue of cedars. A bust of Sir 
 Robert by Bysbrach is preserved here, 
 and a full-length of the powerful 
 minister, seated, and signed "Stef. 
 Slaughter, 1742." There are also 
 portraits of the father and mother of 
 Sir Robert ; and one of the Jesuit 
 W^alpole, bought at Strawberry Hill. 
 The Ch. in the park, of which the 
 tower only remains, is thickly sur- 
 rounded by hollies.] 
 
 At 5 m. from Aylsham the woods 
 of Gunton Hall (Lord Sufiield) are 
 seen, rt. The house (of white brick, 
 enlarged by Wyatt, 1785) is not 
 visible. A lofty prospect tower in 
 the woods is conspicuous. The woods 
 and preserves here are very exten- 
 sive, and, although much timber has 
 been felled of late years, some noble 
 ancient trees remain. The house is 
 without interest. The Ch. was re- 
 built in 1742. 
 
 (1., 5 m. off the road, is Barning- 
 ham Hall (J. T. Mott, Esq.). The 
 Ch. stands in the park, partly ruined 
 and ivy-covered. The chancel has 
 been restored.) 
 
 This N.E. portion of Norfolk is 
 not level, but may be characterised 
 as a gently rolling table land, for the 
 most part well wooded. It has pro- 
 bably always had much wood, but it 
 formerly contained more open com- 
 mons (now tilled land or plantation), 
 the region of the bustard (see In- 
 trod.}. Beyond Gunton the ground 
 becomes more and more broken (Boiv- 
 ton Ch., passed rt., has a round 
 tower) ; and after crossing a wide 
 common, the " tumbled " hills bor- 
 dering the sea come into sight, and 
 Cromer soon appears with its light- 
 house and church tower, backed by 
 a broad belt of the North Sea. 
 
246 
 
 Boute i.'^Gromer : the Esplanade. Sect. III. 
 
 lOJ m. from Aylsham, 22h m. from 
 Norwich, Cromer (^Inns : Hotel de 
 Paris, best ; Tucker's ; Bellcrue ; 
 the accommodation at the inns is 
 good, the lodgings are indifferent) is 
 a fishing village (Pop. 13G7), which 
 has become much frequented as a 
 bathing-place. Its advantages are 
 the absence of railways, which 
 prevents the "forays" of excur- 
 sionists, and the very pretty land- 
 ward scenery. The place is quiet, 
 and for those who prefer fine sea and 
 pleasant scenery to the attractions of 
 large watering " towns," it is by far 
 the most agreeable resort on the 
 eastern coast. Cromer stands high, 
 but is sheltered by w^ooded hills, and 
 commands a view of the bay called 
 the " Devil's Throat," from the 
 heavy and dangerous sea continually 
 rolling in upon it. Although the 
 cliffs here are lofty, occasionally 200 
 ft. high, the sea is advancing upon 
 the land wth rather alarming ra- 
 pidity, and is much aided by the 
 action of the land-springs which 
 enter into the beds of boulder clay, 
 gravel, and sand comprising the clilf, 
 and produce landslips. As early as 
 the reign of Henry lY., a ch. was 
 swept away at Cromer; (masses of 
 old wall called " church rock," | m. 
 from the cliffs, are still visible at low 
 tides) ; and along the adjacent 20 
 m. of coast, the sites of the villages 
 of Old Cromer or Shipden, Eccles, 
 and Whimpwell are now covered by 
 the German Ocean. (Cromer was 
 well known from an early period as 
 a fishing station. Koger Bacon, a 
 mariner of the place, is said to have 
 *' discovered Iceland," that is to have 
 made a voyage there, temp. Henry 
 IV., and he it was, according to 
 some authorities, who took prisoner 
 James of Scotland, off" Flamborough 
 Head, in 1405. (The ship which 
 took that in which was the young 
 Earl of Carrick, afterwards James I. 
 — his father, King Eobert, died the 
 same year — was an armed merchant- 
 man of Wye. Roger Bacon may have 
 
 been on board of her.) In 1825 about 
 12 acres of land slipped into the sea 
 from a cliff 250 ft. high, and so en- 
 dangered Foulness Ijighthouse, 1 m. 
 E. of Cromer, that in 1832 it became 
 necessary to reconstruct it further 
 inland. In 1845 another landslip 
 covered 6 acres of beach. 
 
 Careful navigation is required all 
 along this coast. Besides tlie Cromer 
 or Foulness light (revolving, and 
 seen at a distance of 27 m.) there are 
 4 or 5 in the short stretch of 30 m. 
 between Cromer and Yarmouth. 
 Lifeboats are kept at different places. 
 
 The Esplanade is a pleasant walk, 
 and a great protection to Cromer, 
 since its stone wall checks the inroad 
 of the sea. The view from the end of 
 the jetty (especially of a clear even- 
 ing just after sunset) is very pic- 
 turesque and un-English, with the 
 church tower dominating over the 
 village. The batliing is good. " Cro- 
 mer sands " were a favourite haunt of 
 William Collins, R.A., and many 
 of his choicest views on the English 
 coast were studied here. (It should 
 here be said that Cromer lobsters are 
 famous. They are small, and it is 
 the fashion to eat them hot.) 
 
 The Submarine Telegraph Com- 
 pany (the wires are laid from Wey- 
 bourne,? m. W. of Cromer, to Emden, 
 in Hanover) has a " station " in the 
 yard of Tucker's Hotel. The wires 
 border the road from Norwich. 
 
 To the geologist, the shore and 
 cliffs of Cromer are full of interest. 
 From Cromer Jetty, the Noricich 
 Crag, resting on the chalk, rises 
 gradually to the top of the cliffs at 
 Weybourne, 7 m. distant, N.W. 
 There is no crag E. of Cromer, but 
 eastward of tlie jetty a remarkable 
 Forest heel rests on the chalk, increas- 
 ing gradually (from the jetty) in 
 depth and thicknc-^ss, and extending 
 from Cromer to near Kessingland. 
 This forest bed consists of the 
 " stumps of numerous trees, standing 
 erect, with their roots attached to 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 BoiUe 4. — Cromer : Geology, 
 
 247 
 
 them, and penetrating in all direc- 
 tions into the loam or ancient vege- 
 table soil on which they grew. Tliey 
 mark the site of a forest which 
 existed there for a long time, since 
 besides the erect trunks of trees, 
 some of them 2 and 3 ft. in diameter, 
 there is a vast accumulation of vege- 
 table matter in the immediately over- 
 lying clays." — Lyell. It is exposed 
 at certain seasons and states of the 
 beach, between high and low water 
 mark, but " in order to expose the 
 stumps, a vast body of sand and 
 shingle must be cleared away by the 
 force of the waves." The breadth 
 and length of its area must have 
 been considerable. Above it (in the 
 cliifs) lies "a series of sands and 
 clays with lignite, sometimes 10 ft. 
 thick, and containing alternations of 
 fluviatile and marine strata, implying 
 that the old forest land, which may 
 at first have been considerably ele- 
 vated above the level of the sea, had 
 sunk down so as to be occasionally 
 overflowed by a river, and at other 
 times by the salt waters of an estuary. 
 There were probably several oscilla- 
 tions of level wliich assisted in bring- 
 ing about these clianges, during 
 which trees were often uprooted and 
 laid prostrate, giving rise to layers of 
 lignite. Occasionally marshes were 
 formed, and peaty matter accumu- 
 lated, after which salt water again 
 predominated, so that species of My- 
 tilus, Mya, Leda, and other marine 
 genera, lived in the same area where 
 the Unio, Cyclas, and Paludina had 
 flourished for a time." — Lyell. In 
 the forest bed and in the lignite are 
 found plants and seeds of Scotch and 
 Spruce firs, yew, alder, oak, birch, sloe, 
 yellow and white water-lily, and the 
 large Osmuncla regalis, all of living 
 species, as are the insects and fresh- 
 water shells. But with these are 
 found mammalia of very different 
 character, " 3 distinct elephants, a 
 rhinoceros and hippopotamus, a large 
 extinct beaver, and several large es- 
 tuarian and marine mammalia, such 
 
 as the walrus, the narwhal, and the 
 whale ; " one of the latter, found at 
 Bacton, having been, in Professor 
 Owen's judgment, GO ft. long. Above 
 the lignite beds rests honlder clay of 
 the glacial period, varying in thick- 
 ness, and containing blocks of dis- 
 tant origin, some from Norway and 
 Sweden (these chiefly in the lower 
 portions of the till). Contorted Drift 
 (sand and gravel) rests on the clay, 
 and above again are superficial gra- 
 vels and sands. It should be said 
 that the forest bed is not found N.W. 
 of Cromer, but that all the overlying 
 beds, including the lignite, are found. 
 The age of the forest bed has been 
 assigned by Sir Charles Lyell to that 
 infinitely remote period (post-plio- 
 cene — that is, later than the Norwich 
 crag, but still a period compared to 
 which the historical era is as no- 
 thing) when the whole of these is- 
 lands were united with the Continent. 
 Subsequently a depression took place, 
 during which the land was sub- 
 merged, and the boulder clay was 
 deposited. Then came an elevation, 
 and a second continental period, and 
 finally the land of the British area 
 was broken up into islands as it now 
 exists. (See for all this, and for 
 further notices of the Cromer clifts, 
 LyelVs ' Antiquity of Man,' ch. xii.) 
 
 The Norwich crag, extending to 
 Weybourne, contains its characteris- 
 tic fossils, including a large masto- 
 don (M. arvernensis), which appears 
 to have died out before the time 
 of the forest bed. (See Inlrod., 
 ' Geology.') Fossils from all these 
 deposits will be found in the dealers' 
 shops at Cromer. 
 
 The Ch. of Cromer, dedicated to SS. 
 Peter and Paul, is a fine Perp. build- 
 ing of flint and freestone, having a 
 tower 159 ft. high, with a peculiar and 
 rich parapet. (Many towers on this 
 coast are of great height. They served 
 as sea-marks.) The chancel is in ruins 
 (there is a tradition that it was 
 turned into a barrack, and then de- 
 
248 
 
 Iloute 4.'-'Cromer : NeighhoiirJiood. Sect. III. 
 
 stroyed, by Cromwell) ; and the whole 
 biiildiuo^ was almost in the same 
 states when a restoration was begun 
 in 1SG3. The interior is now very 
 fine, and must have been superb 
 when the chancel was standhig. (It 
 is proposed to rebuild this by sub- 
 scription.) The great height of the 
 piers and arches — the crowns of the 
 latter parallel with those of the very 
 lofty aisle windows — is especially 
 striking. The windows are all mo- 
 dern, but repeat the ancient designs. 
 The roof is new. Round the door 
 opening from the W. porch (a long 
 "Galilee") is some excellent sculp- 
 ture with angels. There were S. 
 and N. porches with upper cham- 
 bers. The N. porch has been restored 
 as a vestry. The S. porch has lost 
 the floor of its parvise chamber. 
 
 The walks in the neighbourhood 
 are numerous and pleasant. The 
 visitor should first seek the Liglit- 
 liouse, on the high ground about 1 
 m. E. of the village. It stands on a 
 common covered with furze and 
 brake ; and the view from it will 
 show at once the difference between 
 these hills of the coast and the in- 
 land country. The old lighthouse 
 (which remained standing after the 
 new one was built in 1832) disap- 
 peared in the spring of 1867, when 
 a great landslip occurred, the ruins 
 caused by which are still lying at 
 the foot of the cliff. It is impossible 
 to calculate the extent to which the 
 headland, known as " Foulness " may 
 have once stretched seaward. Its 
 name is perhaps a relic of the 
 Danish settlement on this coast, as 
 are more certainly those of "Over- 
 strand," " Sidestrand," and N. and 
 S. " Repps" (the Icelandic hreppar 
 = districts), belonging to adjoining 
 villages. A walk beyond the light- 
 house, in the direction of Sidestrand, 
 will afibrd excellent proof of the 
 rapidity with which these cliffs are 
 receding. Enormous masses of 
 " land-slip " are there seen, partly 
 jn ruins oij the beach below, and 
 
 partly resting halfway down, with 
 grass and wild flowers still covering 
 them. Tlie cliffs at the lighthouso 
 are 220 ft. high. Looking over the 
 sea from the high ground of the 
 lighthouse, the visitor may be re- 
 minded that Mr. Scott Surtees, tho 
 ingenious rector of Sprotborough, 
 in Yorkshire, has fixed on Cromer 
 as the first landing-place of Caesar, 
 whom he supposes to have sailed 
 from the mouth of the Rhine. The 
 suggestion is at least novel. Mr. 
 Surtees, in an earlier lucubration, 
 had shown (to his own satisfaction) 
 that nearly all the important events 
 of early English history occurred at 
 Sprotborough. 
 
 From the lighthouse a field-path 
 may be followed to Overstrand, 2 m. 
 from Cromer by the road. 
 
 A^orth Bepps Hall (Lady Buxton), 
 about 1 m. S., was the seat of the 
 late Sir T. Fowell Buxton, Bart.,(d. 
 1845), so well known for his efforts 
 to extinguish African slavery, and 
 for his fine manly English character, 
 well portrayed in his ' Memoirs' by 
 his son. "He was buried in the 
 ruined chancel of the little Ch, of 
 Overstrand. The old walls, overrun 
 with ivy, the building itself, with the 
 sea in full view, and the whole sur- 
 rounding scenery, are highly pic- 
 turesque." His son, Sir E. Buxton 
 (d. 1858), is also buried in this chan- 
 cel. A small new ch. was opened 
 here in 1867. The ruins of the old 
 ch. date from the reign of Richard 
 II., before which a former building 
 had been undermined by the sea. 
 
 (A mysterious headless dog tra- 
 vels nightly between Overstrand and 
 Beeston. It is known as " Old 
 Shuck," and the lane at Overstrand 
 through which it passes is " Shuck's 
 Lane." " Shuck " is the A.-S. scucca, 
 sceocca = the evil one. ) 
 
 The Cottage at North Repps, of 
 which the grounds are very pleasant, 
 was long the residence of Miss Gur- 
 ney, whose name is remembered with 
 
Norfolk. Bmite 'i.-^Felbrigge'^Sheringliam. 
 
 249 
 
 respect and gratitude throughout the 
 whole neisjhbourhood. 
 
 (A good pedestrian may extend 
 his walk 3 m. farther to Sidestrand 
 and Trlmingham. Sidestrand is a 
 lonely fishing village. The Ch. of 
 Triminijham, on the coast, 5 m. from 
 Cromer, anciently possessed a cele- 
 brated relic, venerated as the head 
 of St. John the Baptist. (A head, 
 said to be that of the Baptist, is still 
 shown at Amiens. The block on 
 which he was beheaded, brought 
 from the East by Cffiur-de-Lion, was 
 the chief treasure of the ch. of Char- 
 ing, in Kent.) The clifts of Trlming- 
 ham (300 ft.) are said to be the 
 highest ground in Norfolk. 30 or 40 
 chs. may be counted from the Beacon 
 Hill, about 1 m. from, the ch.) 
 
 On the other side of Cromer, the 
 walk to Felbrigge (2 J m. — to thech., 
 through the park is 1 m. farther) is 
 very pleasant. The road should be 
 taken that passes Cromer Hall (B. 
 Bond Cabell, Esq.), and then running 
 through the woods, leads to the 
 lodge at Felbrigge Park. Thence 
 turn 1. toward the village, where 
 the key of the ch. is kept. Felbrigge 
 Park (John Ketton, Esq.) is large 
 and well wooded. The house, the 
 ancient seat of the Felbrigges and 
 the Windhams, passed, with all its 
 contents — i^ictures, plate, and library 
 — from the late unhappy representa- 
 tive of the Windhams to the present 
 owner of the property. It is a mixed 
 James I. and William III. mansion, 
 with an open parapet inscription, 
 " Gloria Deo in Excelsis." Among 
 the pictm-es are a good Rembrandt, 
 and some sea-fights by Vandervelde. 
 Felbrigge was the residence of tlie 
 statesman William Windham, who is 
 buried in the Ch. This is a small 
 Perp. building in a corner of the 
 park, somewhat neglected. It con- 
 tains a very fine bust by Nollehens, 
 of William Windham (born 1750, d. 
 1810), and some remarkable brasses. 
 In the chancel are those of Simon 
 
 of Felbrigge, circ. 1351, and some 
 others ; but the finest (and one of the 
 finest in this country) is that of Sir 
 Simon Felbrigge (d. 1443) and his 
 wife. It is in the nave, and a sight of 
 it will amply repay the antiquary for 
 the labour of his walk. This Sir 
 Simon was standard-bearer to Eichard 
 II. ; and his wife, Margaret, a native 
 of Bohemia, was a "domicella" of 
 Eichard's queen, Anne, with whom 
 she came to England. This is one 
 of the five brasses of knights of the 
 Garter which alone remain. He sup- 
 ports within his left arm a small 
 standard with the arms borne by 
 Eichard II. (those assigned to the 
 Confessor.) His wife bears the 
 fetterlock badge. 
 
 Many of the Windhams are buried 
 in tlie chancel, including the last 
 proprietor of that race. 
 
 In 1825 a large tract of land in 
 the parish of Felbrigge, called the 
 " Bruery " (Bruy ere — bruerium, bruil- 
 lum), was enclosed and laid out under 
 the direction of Kent. 
 
 (On the W. side of Felbrigge Park 
 are the churches of Gresham a,nd 
 Aylmerton. Gresham Ch. has been 
 restored. It is Dec, with a good S. 
 porch, and a tower round at the base 
 octagonal above. On the font are 
 the 7 Sacraments. Aylmerton Ch. 
 has a round tower.) 
 
 A good pedestrian may extend his 
 walk to Sheringham (3J m. beyond 
 Felbrigge Ch., passing by Aylmer- 
 ton), but this round \vill be better 
 included in the drives fi'om Cromer. 
 The Holt road should be taken ; and 
 after passing the turn to Felbrigge, 
 1., a road turns rt. on an open heath, 
 whence fine views are obtained in 
 the direction of Cromer, and soon 
 reaches a high point overlooking the 
 sea, on which is an enclosure or 
 entrenchment called the "Eoman 
 camp." It is of singular form, 
 squared on the S., with a small 
 square projection, and apparently 
 rounded toward the sea. On that 
 side, without the entrenchments, 
 
 M 3 
 
250 
 
 lEloute 4. — Roman Camp : Pits. Sect. III. 
 
 arc some circular pits, which are 
 to all apiDearancc the foundations 
 of huts, of very similar character to 
 those found on the Yorkshire moors. 
 There are similar pits on Beeston 
 Heath, where they are called '' hills 
 and holes ; " and on Aijhnerton 
 Ilf-ath, where they are known as 
 *' the shrieking pits." At Aylmerton 
 there are at least 2000 of these pits. 
 I;Ocal folk-lore asserts that loud 
 shrieking is sometimes heard pro- 
 ceeding from them ; and that a w^hite 
 figure may be seen at certain seasons 
 gazing into the pits and wringing its 
 hands. At Weyhourne (on the coast 
 4 m. W. of Sheringham and Beeston) 
 are many hundreds of pits. They 
 are on the high ground above the 
 valley in which the village is placed, 
 and are all formed in one way. " A 
 ridge of stones having been firmly 
 placed in the outer side of a circular 
 excavation, the soil from the interior 
 was thrown out, the circle of stones 
 preventing it from falling again into 
 the pit. At the bottom of each pit 
 is a large quantity of stones, v,-hich 
 may partly have served to line it. 
 The diameter varies from 8 to 20 ft., 
 and the depth of each pit is from 2 
 to 6 ft. The main body of the pits 
 is placed directly over a spring which, 
 bursting forth at the foot of the rising 
 ground, runs through the present 
 village of Wey bourne." (Mr. Harrod, 
 in ' Norf. Archaeol.' who has carefully 
 examined these pits.) No relics were 
 found dming the examination of 
 these pits; and the tradition runs 
 that they were " formed by Cromwell 
 when he destroyed Weybourne 
 Priory." (Eemark the evident con- 
 fusion between the two Cromwells.) 
 For Weybourne see the next rte. 
 On Marsham Heath (S. of Aylsham) 
 there are many pits fsaid to have 
 been made by the rebels under Litt- 
 ster, routed by Bp. Spencer) ; and 
 Grimes Graves, near Thetford (see 
 Ete. 12), are of similar character. 
 Without doubt, all these pits mark 
 the settlements of a primaeval popu- 
 
 lation along this coast. They may 
 bo compared with other primaeval 
 settlements in Yorkshire, Derbyshii-e, 
 and Wiltshire. The "village" of 
 Stanlake, in Oxfordshire, also re- 
 sembles them, and the hut founda- 
 tions on Dartmoor should be com- 
 pared. In all these instances, what 
 differences exist seem to be the result 
 of soil, situation, and the nature of 
 the local stone. The general arrange- 
 ment and character are alike. 
 
 The view from the Roman camp 
 is very fine — perhaps the finest in 
 Norfolk — and should be seen by all 
 visitors to Cromer. In front is 
 broken ground, with fern, heatli, 
 and much wood, descending towards 
 the sea, near which the churches of 
 Eunton, Beeston, and Sheringham 
 are visible. Cromer Ch. and light- 
 house are conspicuous, rt. A steep 
 road, commanding some picturesque 
 views, winds down to Sheringham, 
 where is a plain Perp. Ch., with 
 a very plain rood - loft remaining. 
 Close to the village is the entrance 
 to Sheringham Boicer (H. Upcher, 
 Esq.), the prettiest spot on the coast. 
 The elder Eepton described it in 
 1816 as " more capable of being 
 rendered an approiDriate gentleman- 
 like residence than any place he had 
 ever seen." Much has since been 
 done here ; and the visitor should 
 by all means drive through the park, 
 which he is permitted to do. The 
 house is not important ; but the 
 higher ground is very lovely, with 
 fine trees, an undergrowth of rhodo- 
 dendrons, and hillocks covered with 
 fern and wild hyacinths. Across 
 this broken foreground the sea is 
 seen at intervals. The whole re- 
 sembles parts of the Isle of Wight. 
 
 At Old Hythe Point, W. of Shering- 
 ham, an enormous pinnacle of chalk, 
 between 70 and 80 ft. in height, is 
 flanked on either side by vertical 
 layers of loam, clay, and gravel. 
 " This chalky fragment is only one 
 of many detached masses which have 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boiite 5. — Cromer to Wells. 
 
 251 
 
 been included in the drift, and forced 
 along with it into their present posi- 
 tion. The level surface of the chalk, 
 in situ" (below this fragment), " may- 
 be traced for miles along the coast, 
 where it has escaped the violent 
 movements to which the incumbent 
 drift has been exposed." — LijeU. (See 
 the fragment figured in his ' Antiq. 
 of Man? p. 221.) 
 
 From Sheringham the return to 
 Cromer may be made by Aylmerton 
 and Felbrigge. The whole round 
 will be about 12 m. 
 
 (For the coast beyond Triming- 
 ham, which may easily be visited 
 from Cromer, -see Kte. 3.) 
 
 At Beeston (nearer the sea than 
 Sheringham, from which it lies about 
 1 m. N.E. ; it is 3 m. from Cromer) 
 are the ruins of a Priory, founded 
 for Augustinian canons by Lady 
 Isabel de Cressy, temp. John. An 
 arcade and j)arfc of the tower (E. 
 Eng.) remain. Beeston Hill (the 
 beacon) is the highest point of the 
 cliffs westward. The view from it 
 somewhat resembles that from the 
 so-called " Eoman camp " (see ante). 
 The walk along the cliffs from 
 Cromer in this direction is, however, 
 not so pleasant as that W. toward 
 Trimingham. At Bunton, between 
 Cromer and Beeston, " an ancient 
 rural practice still prevails : namely, 
 the separation of field from field, not 
 by hedges or fences, but by a strip 
 of land a rod in width, called a balk, 
 or mereing-balk ; in which term we 
 have the old Saxon word for boun- 
 dary. The balk is never ploughed 
 or dug, and is commonly overgrown 
 with grass, on which horses and 
 cattle are tethered to feed; and in 
 places where you can see over a 
 broad surface, as by Runton Gap, 
 the numerous rectangular green 
 stripes have a singular effect." — 
 Whites ' Eastern England.' {Balca, 
 A.-S. = a heap or ridge; Medre = 
 ^ boundary.) 
 
 ROUTE 5. 
 
 CROMER TO WELLS BY HOLT. 
 
 The distance is 21 m. There are 
 no public conveyances. Holt is ] 2 
 m. from Cromer. 
 
 (In driving from Cromer, it is pos- 
 sible to take the by-road to She- 
 ringham, drive through the beauti- 
 ful grounds of Sheringham Bower, 
 and emerge thence into the Holt 
 road. This will prolong the journey 
 by 3 or 4 m.) 
 
 The road to Holt is bordered by 
 wood and plantation, a great deal of 
 which is the property of the Gurney 
 family. Otherwise the country has 
 little interest. 
 
 12 m. Holt (Pop. 1635 ; Inn : The 
 Feathers) is a clean market-town, 
 standing on high ground, with much 
 wood round it, in accordance with its 
 name. (It is a mistake to suppose, 
 as is very usual, that Norfolk is an 
 uuwooded county. The zeal of its 
 great proprietors for preserving game 
 has caused the recent planting of 
 considerable tracts, and has ensured 
 the careful preservation of the ancient 
 woodland — once, no doubt, far more 
 extensive than at present. A great 
 deal of old timber, besides thinnings 
 from plantations, is yearly brought 
 from the northern part of the county.) 
 The Ch. of Holt is Perp., but is 
 hardly wort]\ a visit. Sir Thomag 
 
252 
 
 Boiife 5.- 
 
 -Eoll—Cley. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 Grosham, founder of the Royal Ex- 
 clmnge, was born at tlie nianor- 
 linuse here, in 1507. His brother, 
 Sir John Grcsham, Aklerman of 
 London, founded the Grannnar 
 School liere in 1554. Tliis has been 
 rebuilt (1858-60) of brick; but the 
 old house, with the arras of the 
 Greshams on it, has been allowed to 
 remain. In front of it, Thomas 
 Cooper, its master, was hanged for 
 his adherence to the cause of Charles 
 I. At the E. end of the town is a 
 new and very pretentious Wesleyan 
 chapel. 
 
 The manor of Holt-Perrers, in 
 this parish, belonged to the family 
 whence sprung Alice Ferrers — the 
 mistress whose ascendancy tarnished 
 the latter years of Edward III. She 
 had been a lady of Queen Philippa's 
 bedchamber, and on the death of the 
 Queen in 1369 she became all-power- 
 ful with Edward, then aged 59. He 
 gave her his wife's jewels, and on 
 one occasion she rode from the Tower 
 to Smithfield. attired as the " Lady of 
 the Sun," and accompanied by a great 
 concourse of lords and ladies, to be 
 present at a touruaihent, wiiich lasted 
 7 days. She " interfered greatly 
 with the course of justice," and was 
 proceeded against by the famous 
 Parliament of 1376. She was then 
 compelled to remove herself from 
 tlie King ; but she afterwards re- 
 tiu'ued, and was at Shene when 
 Edward died in 1377. She fled after 
 the King's death, having robbed him 
 of Ills finger rings. 
 
 [7 m. S.W. of Holt ("and nearly 
 the same distance from the Eyburgh 
 Stat, on the rly. between East Dere- 
 ham and Fakenham : see Ete. 8) is 
 Melton Constable, the seat of Lord 
 Hastings. The house was built 
 about 1680, and ranks fourth in 
 splendour and importance among the 
 great houses of Norfolk. It contains 
 some fine pictures, a noble armoury, 
 and a rare collection of mediaeval 
 antiquities, bought by Lord Has- 
 
 tings with great knowledge and 
 liberality. Here are the bufi'coat, 
 embroidered vest, and sword-belt 
 worn by Sir Jacob Astlcy, Serjeant- 
 INIajor of the Forces in the reign of 
 Charles I. The suit forms the most 
 com])lete and striking specimen pro- 
 bably now in existence of the military 
 costume of the last Civil Wars. The 
 coat is richly overlaid with gold and 
 silver lace in stripes. Sir Jacob 
 Astley was created in 1644 Baron 
 Astley of Eeading. Here, too, may 
 be seen a pair of embroidered dress- 
 gloves of thin leather, fringed with 
 silver lace — presented, it is said, by 
 Queen Elizabeth to Sir John Astley ; 
 also a cushion cover, exquisitely em- 
 broidered by, as is believed, the 
 queen's own hands. A lofty pro- 
 spect tower called the " Bellevue " is 
 passed 1., shortly before reaching 
 Melton Constable from Holt.] 
 
 [The Church of Cley-next-the-Sea, 
 6 m, N. of Holt, is fine, and deserves 
 a visit. The ch. has been restored, 
 new roofed, and new seated. It is 
 chiefly Perp. ; and the double-headed 
 eagles which ornament one of its 
 chapels have been thought to relate 
 to a guild of German merchants once 
 established here. The font displays 
 the 7 Sacraments. The size and 
 richness of the ch. indicate at any 
 rate the former importance of Cley, 
 a harbour from which much wheat is 
 still exported. In 1174, during the 
 " war " between Henry II. and his 
 sons, Eoger Bigod, nephew of the 
 Great Earl at Framlingham (see 
 SrFFOLK, Ete. 5;, who had been 
 driven from his castle in Axholm, 
 crossed from the Lincolnshire coast 
 to Cley, and was there taken by the 
 " rustics " (Ben. Abbas). The coast 
 here is little more than a level 
 marsh, and is uninteresting. At 
 Weybourne, 5 m. E., where the clifts 
 begin to rise, the wires of the tele- 
 graph are connected with the sub- 
 marine cable tliat crosses to Emden. 
 (There was a Priory of Augustinian 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boute B.'^Binliam Ahhey. 
 
 253 
 
 Canons at "Weybourne, founded Ijy 
 Sir Ealpli Meyngaryn before 1189.) 
 Great banks lie oft' this coast, the 
 accumulated debris of its perishing 
 cliff's. Blakeney, about 1 m. W. of 
 Cley, is another small harbour for 
 grain. It is without interest ; and 
 the tourist need hardly seek this part 
 of the coast, unless for the sake of 
 the ch. at Cley.] 
 
 From Holt the journey to Wells 
 may be continued either by Lang- 
 liam (5 m.), where Captain Marryatt, 
 the well-known novelist, lived for 
 many years (see, for an interesting 
 notice of his life here, the ' Cornhill 
 Magazine,' August, 1867); or a more 
 interesting road by Field Bailing and 
 Biuham may be taken. There is 
 some pretty scenery near Saxlingliam, 
 where the " sand hills," as they are 
 called, are tracts of broken ground, 
 covered with fine wood. Tliis is a 
 favourite gypsy encampment. Mr. 
 Borrow's friends are well quartered 
 in Norfolk. It is probable that few 
 parts of England retain their ancient 
 character so completely as the re- 
 moter corners of this county ; where 
 (as at Saxlingliam) large portions of 
 land must have continued nearly in 
 the same state since the days of the 
 Plantagenets. 
 
 Beyond the long village of Field 
 Balling the country becomes more 
 open, and so continues until Binham 
 Ahhey is reached. The ruins of the 
 abbey lie beyond (N.) the village, in 
 which the shaft and raised step of a 
 cross still remain. 
 
 Binham Abbey (it is more properly 
 called Binham Priory) was founded 
 as a cell to the great Benedictine 
 liouse of St. Alban's, by Peter de 
 Valoignes, a nephew of the Conqueror, 
 and Albreda, his wife, between the 
 years 1093 and 1106. In the reign 
 of John, the priory was besieged by 
 Robert Fitzwalter, whose friend, the 
 Prior Thomas, had been removed 
 by the Abbot of St. Alban's. Fitz- 
 
 walter claimed to be the patron of 
 Binham, and asserted that the prior 
 could not be removed without his 
 consent. He then besieged the 
 priory ; and the monks, says Matthew 
 Paris, were compelled to drink rain 
 water and to eat bran bread. King 
 John swore " per pedes Dei ' that 
 either he or Fitzwalter should be 
 King in England, and despatched a 
 force which compelled the latter to 
 raise the siege. Edward I. was here for 
 several days in 1285. At the suppres- 
 sion there were only six monks here 
 and the yearly revenue was loOL — 
 " the superior attractions of its great 
 neighbour at Walsingliam probably 
 drawing everything to its own coffers." 
 — Harrod. Henry VIII. granted the 
 site to Sir Thomas Paston; whose 
 son, says Spelman, began to build 
 at Binham, until a wall fell and 
 killed a workman. " Perplexed with 
 the accident," he gave over the work, 
 and built a mansion house at Api^le- 
 ton. 
 
 The remains consist of the nave of 
 the ch. — still used as the parish ch., 
 as indeed it seems to have been from 
 the foundation — of the chancel and 
 transepts in ruins, and of the prin- 
 cipal gate-house. The nave is for 
 the most part plain massive Norm. 
 but a wall has been built between 
 the main piers, shutting out the 
 aisles, which have been allowed to 
 fall into ruin. The piers are square. 
 Above is a round - headed trifo- 
 rium, with open arches like that of 
 Norwich Cathedral ; and above, a 
 round-headed clerestory. The three 
 westernmost bays are, however, E. 
 Eng. ; and the W. front is E. Eng., 
 and very good. Above an arcade 
 (which recalls the E. Eng. of Peter- 
 borough) is a large geometrical win- 
 dow, unhappilv mutilated and 
 blocked up. The font is Perp., and 
 has been very rich, with the 7 Sacra- 
 ments, and many figures, but is 
 greatly defaced. The lower part of 
 the w^all, which crosses the E. end 
 of the ch., is E. Eng.,. and no doubt 
 
254 
 
 Boute 5. — Wells, 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 formed — as at Boxgrove, in Sussex, 
 Wymondham (see Rte. 6;, St. Alban's, 
 Crowland, and elsewhere — a division 
 between the parochial eh. and that 
 of the priory. After the Dissolution 
 the whole end was built up as we 
 now see it. 
 
 The aisles are in ruins. " There 
 is a peculiarity in the W. windows 
 of the aisles which has often been 
 remarked — the transom at about a 
 third of their height, a very rare 
 occurrence in E. Eng. window^s ; but 
 the main object of this transom is 
 seen from within. At the time the 
 W. end was altered, the Norman 
 vaulting of the aisles of the nave 
 was destroyed, and a loftier vaulting 
 substituted, which permitted the 
 lower portion of these windows to 
 give light into the aisles, and raised 
 the floor of the triforium level with 
 the upper line of the transom." — 
 Harrod's ' Castles and Convents of 
 Norfolk,' p. 205. 
 
 The remains of the transept, cen- 
 tral tower, and choir, are Norm. ; 
 and Mr. Harrod has shown that an 
 eastern chapel was added in the 
 Dec. period. The cloister on the S. 
 side of the nave may be traced ; and 
 there are extensive foundations of 
 the conventual buildings surround- 
 ing it. On the N. side of the ch. 
 was the cemetery. 
 
 The chief gateway of the precinct 
 stands at some distance W. of the 
 ch. It is throughout E. E., and is 
 called the Jail Gate, no doubt be- 
 cause, like that at Bridlington, in 
 Yorkshire, it contained a jDrison, 
 perhaps the square cell or apartment 
 1. on entering. 
 
 The precinct is a green pasture 
 field. The ruins are partly ivy- 
 covered ; and the whole scene is 
 quiet and pleasing. The sketcher 
 will find many good subjects. 
 
 (From Binham the tourist may 
 turn S.W. to Wahingliam (Rte. S), 
 distant 3 J m., where he will be on 
 the line of rly. between Fakenham 
 
 and Wells. From Binham to Wells 
 the distance is 5 m.) 
 
 Wells {Inn : The Crown, comfort- 
 able ; Pop. 34G4 ; hero is the termi- 
 nus of the Fakenham and Wells Rly.) 
 is a small trading port, lying in a 
 tortuous creek, very liable to bo 
 silted up by the action of the N. 
 winds, though recently imjiroved, 
 and furnished with a stone quay. 
 The tide rises 21 ft. in the harbour, 
 and vessels of 200 tons can enter. 
 The trade itself is chiefly in corn, 
 coals, and timber. The sole point 
 of interest here is the Ch., which is 
 Perp., and has been very rich. There 
 is a fine open roof, much shattered. 
 The chancel roof and the screen 
 have been restored ; and the painting 
 of the latter has been unhappily 
 refreshed ; two angels, kneeling on 
 red cushions, appear at the entrance, 
 and are to all aj^pearance modern 
 " improvements." The nave is fright- 
 fully be-pewed and galleried. 
 
 In the parish register, a.d. 1583, 
 is recorded the perishing on this 
 coast of 14 persons (seamen ?) coming 
 from Spain, " whose deaths were 
 brought to pass by the detestable 
 working of an execrable witche of 
 King's Lynn, whose name was S 
 Mother Gabley ; by the boyling or 
 rather labouring of certayn eggs in a 
 payle full of colde vmter ; afterwards 
 approved sufficientlie at the araigue- 
 ment of the saide witche." 
 
 Wells is the station from which 
 Holliham (Earl of Leicester) is usu- 
 ally visited. The house is distant 
 about 3 m. ; and the walk or drive 
 along the marshy level to the park 
 is sufficiently dreary. The house is 
 never shown unless by special order. 
 The gardens are open on Tuesdays 
 during the summer. (The day is 
 occasionally changed, as to whicli 
 enquiry shoidd be made at Wells.) 
 The art collections at Holkham form 
 the chief attraction of the place ; 
 and unless he obtain admission to 
 these, the visitor can hardly bo 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 BoiUe 5. — HoIJcJiam : Farm and ParJc. 
 
 255 
 
 recommended to go much out of his 
 way for the sake of the vast but 
 level park, or of the gardens, which 
 are not specially remarkable. 
 
 The Cokes, Earls of Leicester, are 
 descended from a Coke of Didlington 
 in Norfolk, mentioned in a deed of 
 1206. From him descended the great 
 Sir Edward Coke, the lawyer. His 
 eldest son was John Coke of Holk- 
 ham ; who had 7 sons and 7 daugh- 
 ters : but the youngest son, to whom 
 Holkham at last came, died un- 
 married ; and Holkham then passed 
 to the heirs of Henry Coke of Tbor- 
 ington, 5th son of Sir Edward. The 
 grandson of this Henry afterwards 
 became lord of Holkham ; and his 
 grandson was Sir Thomas Coke, 
 K.B., of Holkham, created Baron 
 Level of IMinster Level in May, 1728, 
 and in 1744 Viscount Coke of Holk- 
 ham and Earl of Leicester. His 
 only son died in 1759, when the 
 earldom and minor honours became 
 extinct. The estate devolved on his 
 nephew (son of his sister), Wenham 
 Roberts, who took the sui'name and 
 arms of Coke. His son was the well 
 known '"Coke of Norfolk," created 
 Earl of Leicester and Viscount Coke 
 in 1837. 
 
 To agriculturists, Holkham is a 
 place of much note. The enormous 
 estate here was really ' created ' by 
 the first Earl of Leicester (of the 
 second creation — died 1842), wiio was 
 long known by the more distin- 
 guislied title of " Coke of Norfolk," 
 and reputed the " first farmer in 
 England." By the aid of skill and 
 capital exerted upon an open and 
 barren country, producing on an 
 average only 5s. per acre, he con- 
 verted it into one of high fertility 
 yielding at least 20,000L per annum. 
 The surface soil was sand, but be- 
 neath it lay a stratum of marl ; and, 
 by digging and spreading this, Mr. 
 Coke changed the charact6r and 
 value of the land. " Half a century 
 ago Norfolk might be termed a 
 rabbit and rye countiy. In its ' 
 
 northern part wheat was almost un- 
 known, in the whole tract lying 
 between Holkham and Lynn not 
 an ear was to be seen, and it was 
 scarcely believed that an ear could 
 be made to grow. Now the most 
 abundant crops of wheat and barley 
 cover the entire district. It is to 
 the perseverance and judicious exer- 
 tions of Mr. Coke that we are chiefly 
 indebted for this. Thousands of 
 sheep and oxen are now kept wliere 
 hundreds only were found formerly ; 
 this is owing to turnip culture, the 
 basis of Norfolk farming." — Norfolk 
 Tour. 
 
 Mr. Coke's great improvements 
 were — " the four-course system, com- 
 bined with the drill for sowing, and 
 much ploughing and stirring of the 
 soil to keep down weeds ; " turnip 
 growing; irrigation ;, and spotting 
 the sandy waste land with small 
 pieces of sward, which gradually 
 grew together, and converted the 
 waste into pasture. 
 
 The park is 9 m. in circuit, 
 and was walled in in nine years. It 
 contains 3200 acres, of which 1000 
 are woodland, planted by the first 
 Earl, who, with his family, at Lynn, 
 witnessed the launch of a ship built 
 of oaks from acorns planted by him- 
 self. The park is characterised by no 
 very striking features. It abounds 
 in game ; the trees are well massed 
 and grouped, and include several 
 fine specimens of the evergreen oak 
 (Quercus Ilex), which here flourishes 
 in an uncommon degree, some of the 
 trunks being 12| ft. in circumference. 
 The lake, near the house, is a fine 
 sheet of water, nearly a mile long. 
 
 The park of Holkham is not 
 entirely devoted to deer. Part is 
 plough land producing turnips, and 
 the rest is rich pasture, in the 
 midst of which, on the edge of the 
 lawn, close to the front of the house, 
 may be seen flocks of sheep graz- 
 ing,_ whilst herds of fat bullocks 
 ruminate before the drawing-room 
 windows. The grand approach on 
 
25G 
 
 Boiite b.'^HolJcham : House. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 the S,, from the side of Fakcn- 
 liam (10 m.), is through a tri- 
 umphal arch, designed by Wyatt- 
 vilk', whence a vista, 1^ m. long, 
 opens to the OhelisJ:, from which the 
 house, the lake, and the sea beyond 
 are well seen. On the 1. of tlie road 
 lie the Farm Buildinris, where some 
 fine specimens of stock may usually 
 be admired. 
 
 The Ohelisl; 80 ft. high, was the 
 first work erected on the estate, and 
 was completed in 1729. The Ilexes 
 which surround it, call for special 
 notice. The front of the house looks 
 across to the Leicester monument, 
 erected as a memorial of " Coke of 
 Norfolk" in 1845-48. This is a 
 lofty column, surmounted by a wheat 
 sheaf. On the pedestal are bas- 
 reliefs ; and at the corners figures of 
 an ox, a sheep, a plough, and a drill. 
 There is a long inscription, written 
 by Mr. W. Bodham Donne. TJie 
 Lord Leicester, thus commemorated, 
 is bm-ied in the parish ch. of Long- 
 ford, Derbyshire, where he died. 
 He had the rare fortune to see a 
 family born to him after his 69th 
 year, and to repose under the shade 
 of oaks planted by himself 50 years 
 before. 
 
 The gardens and pleasure-grounds 
 are very pretty, but such as may be 
 seen in many other places. Lady 
 Leicester's flower-garden was plan- 
 ned and laid out by Sir F. Chan- 
 trey. 
 
 The House is a large and hand- 
 some Palladian edifice of white brick, 
 with a Corinthian portico to the S., 
 designed and built by Kent, about 
 1744, for Thos. Coke, Earl of Lei- 
 cester (of the first creation), who 
 said concerning it, "It is a melan- 
 choly thing to stand alone, in one's 
 own country. I look round; not a 
 house is to be seen but my own. 
 I am Giant of Giant Castle, and 
 have ate up' all my neighbours."' 
 • — Dallaway. " My nearest neigh- 
 bour," he added, •' is the king of 
 
 Denmark." The inscription which 
 he has left over his own door is, 
 however, somewhat different. It 
 runs — " This seat, on an open barren 
 estate, was planned, planted, built, 
 decorated, and inhabited the middle 
 of the 18th centy. by Thomas Coke, 
 Earl of Leicester." 
 
 " Holkham," says Walpole, " has 
 faults, but they are Kent's faults, 
 and marked with all the pecu- 
 liarities of his style.' The build- 
 ing is unquestionably vast and 
 stately; but the design is not less 
 certainly an "ingenious puzzle." 
 " We are left to conjecture whether 
 the noble host and hostess sleep in a 
 bedroom 40 ft. high, or are relegated 
 like their guests to a garret or an 
 outhouse, or perhaps may have their 
 bedroom windows turned inwards 
 on a lead flat. All this may suffice 
 to display the perverse ingenuity of 
 the architect in producing a monu- 
 mental whole ; but both the pro- 
 prietor and his guests would in the 
 long run probably prefer rooms of 
 appropriate dimensions, and so situ- 
 ated as to enjoy the view of the 
 scenery of the park, or the fresh 
 breezes of heaven." — Fergusson, iii, 
 295. 
 
 Tlie Art Collections, chiefly formed 
 by the founder of the house, consist 
 of ancient marbles, paintings, and 
 drawings, by great masters ; besides 
 MSS. and books of great value. 
 Some of the ancient marbles are of 
 extreme importance, and rank among 
 the finest in England. There are 
 many excellent pictures; and the 
 Claudes especially are to be noticed. 
 The collection of di'awings is also 
 very fine. 
 
 The following enumeration of the 
 principal works of art is given in 
 the order in which they are usually 
 shown. The remarks are those of 
 Dr. Waageu. 
 
 The Ball is lofty and of noble 
 proportions, measuring 46 ft. by 70 
 
Norfolk. Boiite 5. — HoIJcham : Art Collections. 
 
 257 
 
 ft., surrounded on 3 sides by a gal- 
 lery leading to the difiereut suites 
 of apartments. Under it are — a 
 statue of travertino, Agrippina the 
 younger, mother of Nero — '• The head 
 is very noble ; the design of the 
 drapery, which has unhappily been 
 retouched, is beautiful and original " 
 — and the following modern bas- 
 reliefs : The Death of Germanicus, 
 Nollekens; Socrates before his Judges, 
 Westmacott ; and William IV. signing 
 the Keform Bill, in which are por- 
 traits of Lords Grey, Leicester, Coke 
 (the late Earl), &c., Chanirey. 
 
 North Dining - Boom. — Geta and 
 Marcus Aurelius, busts with drape- 
 ries of coloured marble, of good 
 workmanship. Liicius Verus, a co- 
 lossal marble bust found in the 
 harbour of Nettuno. Juno. 
 
 Red and Yelloic Dressing-Boom,. — 
 Portraits of Chief Justice Coke {Mark 
 Gerard) and his wife. Sir Thomas 
 More. 
 
 Bed and Yellow Bed-Chamher, — 
 Hung with tapestry, after designs 
 by Watteau. A Venetian Lady and 
 her Son, Paris Bordone (?). 
 
 Yelloio Dressing-Boom. — The Tri- 
 umph of Galatea, Alhayio. " The 
 beauty of the forms and the glowing 
 colouring make this a very pleasing 
 picture." Landscape by Claude and 
 Foussin. 
 
 Broion Dressing-Boom. This is 
 filled with drawings by the old 
 masters, meriting the minute atten- 
 tion of all who tiike pleasure in art. 
 " Florentine Soldiers bathing, who 
 are suddenly called to arms, upon 
 an unexpected attack made by the 
 Pisans. A group of figures, after the 
 celebrated Cartoon of Michael Angela, 
 which he executed, in competition 
 with Lionardo da Vinci, for a paint- 
 ing in the great hall in the ancient 
 palace at Florence, painted in oil, in 
 black and white. Though no doubt 
 far inferior to the original in profound- 
 ness of understanding and tboj-ough 
 
 execution, it is however of inestimable 
 value, because it is by it alone that we 
 are able to form an idea of the most 
 essential part of that Cartoon, which 
 is one of the greatest works in the 
 whole range of modern art, where 
 Michael Angelo first displayed in 
 full measure his whole skill and the 
 wonderful talent peculiar to himself, 
 in youthful vigour and simplicity, 
 and the study of which had such 
 great influence on Raphael, Andrea 
 del Sarto, Fra Bartolomeo, and so 
 many other artists of the best period. 
 The subject gave him the most natural 
 and manifold opportunity to show, 
 in the happiest manner, in the men 
 who hastened out of the Arno to 
 arm themselves hastily, his profound 
 study of anatomy and fore-shortening, 
 his elevated grace, and decision of 
 action in the boldest and most tran- 
 sitory attitudes, in robust and manly, 
 as well as in slender, youthful forms, 
 for which the victory was adjudged 
 to him over Lionardo, who was so 
 superior to him in years and experi- 
 ence." — Waagen. 
 
 From the Barberini Palace. The 
 original cartoon, in black chalk 
 heightened with white, of La Belle 
 Jardiniere, by Baphael. 
 
 Tribune of the Statue Gallery. — 
 Lucius Verus, statue dressed in the 
 toga, good; arms and feet new. — 
 Agrippina, wife of Germanicus, in 
 the character of Ceres; the arms 
 new. — Juno, above the size of life ; 
 the arrangement of the drapery is 
 peculiar to the Eoman representation 
 of Isis, for whom Dr. Waagen thinks 
 this statue was probably intended. 
 " Finished in the manner of the best 
 time of Adrian ; the single folds in 
 l^articular are of great depth, sharp- 
 ness, and precision; the arms are 
 new." — Lucius Antonius, brother of 
 Mark Antony, a Roman orator, dressed 
 in the toga, his books in rolls in a box 
 beside him ; carefully executed ; has 
 a part of the drapery new. 
 
 The Statue Gallery. -^This large 
 
258 
 
 Route 5. — Holliliam : Art Collections. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 apartment, by its proportions, decora- 
 tions, and, above all, by the antique 
 sculptures, has a wonderfully noble 
 eftect. 
 
 Neptune. A standing statue as 
 large as life, of Parian marble. The 
 style of the workmaiiship, which is 
 careful, shows that it was executed 
 at a time when art flourished. This 
 statue, which was bought at Rome 
 of Carlo Monaldi, is in my opinion 
 the most important statue of Nep- 
 tune that exists, and well deserves 
 to be made more generally known 
 by plaster casts. A part of the neck, 
 the right arm, the lower small arm, 
 with the trident, and the left leg, 
 are new. A dolphin of extraordinary 
 beauty, which is of great importance 
 in determining the statue to be that 
 of Neptune, is antique. 
 
 A Faun at the age of manhood. 
 It was found in the Campagna, and 
 purchased of Cardinal Albani. Both 
 hands and the tip of the nose are 
 new. 
 
 Meleager. A statue as large as 
 life, of very good Eoman workman- 
 ship. 
 
 Apollo. A slender youthful iigure, 
 resting on a trii:)od, of very good work- 
 manship. 
 
 Venus. A statue as large as life, in 
 a Chiton of very fine material, with 
 her right hand drawing over her 
 shoulder the iipper garment, wdiich 
 is likewise very light. The drapery 
 and the design indicate the more 
 ancient and more worthy representa- 
 tion of the goddess. " Of all similar 
 statues which have come down to 
 us, not excepting even that in the 
 Louvre, formerly at Versailles, this 
 perhaps deserves the preference. The 
 head is extremely noble and chaste 
 in the character, the hair treated in 
 the old fashion like threads, yet, 
 however, more freely divided into 
 elegant portions. A certain healthy 
 and yet delicate fulness of the forms, 
 the drapery closely fitted, or flying 
 in small parallel folds, indicates a 
 model of the finest period of Greek 
 
 art. The workmanship is not un- 
 worthy of the wonderful grace and 
 beauty of the design. The left hand 
 is restored by Cavaceppi, who has 
 erroneously given her a vessel instead 
 of an apple." 
 
 Diana. " A statue rather above 
 the size of life. Advancing the left 
 foot, she is going to take an arrow 
 from the quiver. It is founded on 
 the same original as the celebrated 
 Diana as Huntress, in the Louvre, 
 but in my opinion is superior to that 
 in beauty of form, and in the work- 
 manship of the narrow-plaited dra- 
 pery. The head and arms are un- 
 fortunately restored by the sculptor 
 Eusconi. This excellent statue is 
 composed of two pieces of Parian 
 marble, which are joined together 
 above the girdle. The Earl of Lei- 
 cester, who had purchased it at Rome 
 for 1500L, and clandestinely exported 
 it to Florence, contrary to the prohi- 
 bition of the papal government, was 
 arrested for this oflence, but very 
 soon liberated by the intervention of 
 the Grand Duke of Tuscany." 
 
 Ceres (more probably Fortuna Sta- 
 tiva). '' A very delicate statue, with 
 a handsome head and elegant dra- 
 pery. The workmanship is good. 
 The riglit arm, the left hand, and 
 the greater part of the cornucopia 
 are new." — Waagen, iii. 290-2. 
 
 Of these, 3 statues — the Neptune, 
 Diana, and Faun — are among the 
 very finest antiques in this country. 
 
 Manuscript Library. — Portraits of 
 Roscoe, who arranged this library, 
 by Shee ; of Dr. Parr, by Opie ; Lord 
 Falkland, and Archbishop Laud, 
 Vandych ,■ Charles Fox, Sir J. Rey- 
 nolds. — The collection of MSS. 
 amounts to about 800, including 
 many most valuable for theu- age 
 and embellishments and rarity. Here 
 are Lionardo da Vinci's treatise on 
 the Martisana Canal, written in his 
 own hand, and as usual from r. to 1., 
 illustrated with his own pen-and-ink 
 drawings; and a sketch-book which 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boute 5. — HolJcham : Art Collections. 
 
 259 
 
 belonged to Carlo Maratti, includ- 
 ing architectm-al and other subjects; 
 among them a drawing after Michael 
 Angelo's Brazen Serpent, supposed to 
 be by Raphael. 
 
 The Library.— The contents of this 
 room rank high among the private 
 collections in England. In Missals 
 and Illuminated MSS. the collection 
 is very rich, and the drawings from 
 the old masters are surpassed by few. 
 These of course are never shown. 
 Over the fh-eplace is a remarkable 
 antique mosaic of considerable size, 
 but minutely executed, representing 
 a combat between a lion and a leo- 
 pard. Here is placed a marble bas- 
 relief of two woodcocks, the work of 
 Sir Francis C/iaw^rey, commemorating 
 an exploit of his own in killing two 
 birds with one shot, on the " Chantrey 
 Hills" within the park. A Greek 
 inscription was prepared for the stone 
 by Lord Brougham. The work has 
 been the subject of many epigrams 
 in various languages by living 
 authors, which have (1857) been 
 published, under the title of ' Winged 
 Words on Chantrey's Woodcocks.' 
 
 The Countess's Sitting Boom. — 
 Head of the Virgin, Carlo Maratti, 
 very good. 
 
 Ttie Countess's Bed Boom. — The 
 Doge's Procession with the Bucen- 
 taur, Canaletti ; The Maid of the Inn, 
 a head of an Italian girl in crayon, 
 Bosalha. 
 
 Tlie Countess's Dressing Boom. — 
 " Joseph Eecognised by his Brethren" 
 (called Christ and his Disciples), 
 Baphael. An extremely spirited 
 drawing of the time and manner of 
 the pictures from the Bible in the 
 Loggie. — " The Plague," an excellent 
 bistre drawing from the well-known 
 picture, N. Poussin ; — three beautiful 
 landscapes, Claude, admirably exe- 
 cuted in pen and bistre. 
 
 Drawing Boom. — A large landscape 
 with Apollo and Marsyas, Claude, a 
 first-rate work of the master, and one 
 
 of the finest pictures in the house. 
 "A richly-wooded, warmly-lighted 
 country, entirely without buildings ; 
 uniting poetical feeling, depth, and 
 fulness of tone in a degree which is 
 rare even in Claude, combining an 
 accurate making out of details with 
 harmony of the whole." — Landscape, 
 a Storm, N. Poussin, sublimely poeti- 
 cal in the composition, but become 
 very dark. 
 
 The Saloon. — Retin-n from the 
 Flight to Egypt, Bubens. Figures 
 the size of life. "A repetition of 
 the picture at Blenheim. T]ie heads 
 nobly conceived, the general keeping- 
 bright, the colouring clear and de- 
 licate." 
 
 The Duke of Aremberg gallop- 
 ing on a brown horse, and looking 
 towards the spectator, Vandijch. " He 
 is in armour ; his curly hair falls on 
 a lace collar ; in his right hand he 
 holds a truncheon. Behind is a page 
 with the duke's helmet ; in the back- 
 ground cavalry. The heads, painted 
 in a very clear, light yellowish tone, 
 indicate that it was executed rather 
 before Vandyck's arrival in England. 
 The same is shown by the landscape, 
 which is painted with uncommon 
 care, in a decidedly green tone, with 
 a light horizon. The whole has a 
 noble, princely appearance."— Por- 
 traits of Thomas Earl of Leicester, 
 by Gainsborough ; — Charles James 
 Fox, whole length, Opie ; — Chief 
 Justice Coke, C. Jansen. 
 
 South Dining Boom. — "An Even- 
 ing Landscape," misty air, warmly 
 lighted. In the foreground Claude 
 drawing. Claude Lorraine. In his 
 late pale, general tone. Marked lG7o 
 or 1G76, the last figure being obscure. 
 
 A Thunder-storm : the lightning 
 strikes a tower. Nicholas Poussin. 
 Full of poetry, and rather clearer 
 than the above-mentioned picture. 
 
 The Duke of Richmond ; whole- 
 length, the size of life, Vandijch. 
 
 *'Leo X., with the two Cardinals 
 
260 
 
 Boute 5. — Eollcham : Art Collections. Sect. III. 
 
 IMcdici and Rossi, called a llaphael, 
 is an old, very dark copy of the cele- 
 brated original in the Pitti Palace." 
 — Portrait of the Poet Waller, Lely. 
 
 TJie Landscape^ Room. — " A Land- 
 scape, with the Sacrifice of Isaac, 
 Domenichino, in which the noble com- 
 position is united with great force 
 and extraordinary clearness of colour- 
 ing. Formerly in the Barberini 
 Palace. Unfortunately it hangs in 
 an unfavourable light over the door. 
 
 Claude Lorraine. — " 1. A rather 
 small Landscape, with figui'es, of his 
 early period, very pleasing and clear. 
 Over the chimney-piece. 2, The View 
 of a Port. In the foreground a figure 
 drawing— probably the painter him- 
 self — with a dog. Marked with the 
 name of Claude and 1652. 3. The 
 Companion, with AjdoIIo and Ad- 
 metus, who plays on the violin. Re- 
 markably bright and cheerful in the 
 tone. Both the pictures were formerly 
 in the bedroom of Cardinal Albani, of 
 whom they were purchased. 4. The 
 Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli, with a 
 view of the sea. 5. The Companion. 
 Rising of the Sun, covered by a cloud, 
 the silver tint of which is reflected on 
 the sea. Of very great effect. 6. A 
 large upright Landscape, in which 
 a tall tree and a bridge are striking 
 objects. Many figures of men and 
 animals. Of a late period ; very pale 
 in the general tone. 7. A large Land- 
 scape, with Erminia and the Shep- 
 herds. Of his latest period ; there- 
 fore very cold and pale. Several of 
 these fine landscapes, especially Nos. 
 4, 5, and 6, have formerly suffered 
 injury from damp. The brown film 
 which has thus been formed makes 
 large parts invisible. 
 
 " There are likewise in this room 
 a LandscajDe, by Nicholas Pousssin; 
 five by Gaspar Poiissin ; one of them, 
 which is very large, with ruins in 
 the middle distance, is one of his 
 capital works ; a large, excellent 
 Landscape, in the style of Ann. Car- 
 racci, by Francesco Grimani ; a rocky 
 
 Landscape, of considerable size, by 
 Salvator Rosa ; two by Orizonti ; two 
 by LocatelU ; lastly, a Storm at Sea, 
 and a view of Tivoli, by Joseph 
 Vernet ; the last of them extremely 
 fine,"— TF. 
 
 Closet of the State Bed-Chamher. 
 — Polyphemus, seated on a rock, 
 endeavours, by his performance on 
 the reed pipe, to gain the love of 
 Galataea, who passes on the sea with 
 two Nereids, Ann. Carracci. " This 
 little picture, admirably painted in a 
 very harmonious tone, in fresco, on an 
 antique tile, about 1| ft. square, is 
 the more interesting, as it is doubtless 
 a study for the same fresco which 
 Annibale painted, on a large scale, in 
 the Farnese palace. I unhesitatingly 
 pronounce it to be superior to that in 
 refinement of feeling." 
 
 " Large and small Parrots," F. 
 Snyders. " A carefully-executed, clear 
 picture ; here erroneously called 
 Rubens." 
 
 The Virgin and Child, with St. John 
 and Joseph. ATbano. "A sweet, 
 warmly-coloured little cabinet pic- 
 ture." 
 
 Villiers Duke of Buckingham ; a 
 small contemporary whole-length. 
 
 Nortliern State Closet. — " Cupid in 
 a car drawn by Doves, and two Genii, 
 called Guido Rent, is, in my opinion, 
 an extremely beautiful littlepictureby 
 Carlo Maratti, in Guide's manner." 
 
 Judith giving the Head of Holo- 
 fernes to the Maid. Carlo Maratti. 
 " So much more spirited, dramatic, 
 and powerful than most of the pic- 
 tures by this master, that one would 
 almost hesitate to ascribe it to him, 
 had it not been described as his by 
 Bellori." 
 
 View of the Rialto. Canaletti. "Of 
 uncommon force and finish." 
 
 "A Battle-piece, called Wouver- 
 man, is a very good picture by Stoop." 
 
 Rubens' Daughter, Rubens, and 
 very excellent. 
 
 Northern State Bed-Chamher,— 
 
Nohfolk:. Boute 5. — BolJcham Chirchr-^Burnliam Tliorjpe. 2Gl 
 
 " A stately Turkoy-Cock, gobbling 
 at a family of Chickens. A capital 
 picture this, by Ilondehoeter, the Ra- 
 phael of painters of birds." — W. 
 
 David Rizzio playing the Violin- 
 cello ; whole-length, the size of life. 
 P. F. Mola. " Very ably conceived, 
 and masterly in the treatment, but 
 very much darkened." 
 
 Norther 71 State Dressing-Room. — 
 A small Landscape, of a long narrow 
 shape, with a repose in the Flight to 
 Egypt. Claude Lorraine. " A deli- 
 cate little picture of his later period." 
 
 Mary, who caresses the Child, 
 Joseph, and three Saints. Luino (?). 
 " Very carefully painted, in a bloom- 
 ing, powerful colouring : the pleasing- 
 characters are not important enough 
 for Luino, but it is certainly of the 
 rich Milanese school." 
 
 "Mary Magdalene anointing the 
 feet of Christ, P. Veronese, who is said 
 to have introduced his own portrait 
 between his greyhound, and that of 
 Titian's, a bearded figure in black." 
 
 Mary Magdalene in a Cavern. Par- 
 meg iano. " A very carefully-executed, 
 but a very afiected little cabinet pic- 
 ture." 
 
 Head of Christ, Lionardo da Vinci, 
 from the Eoscoe Collection. 
 
 Christ bearing the Cross. Giacopo 
 Bassano. 
 
 " Mary, standing, holds in her left 
 hand a book, in her right flowers, at 
 which the Child, likewise standing, 
 and looking round to her, eagerly 
 catches. The back-ground a land- 
 scape. Raphael. 
 
 "The Virgin with the Child, St. 
 Francis of Assisi, and Helena, from 
 the Eoscoe Collection, is here erro- 
 neously ascribed to Domenico Ghir- 
 landajo ; yet it is not even a very 
 good picture of the Ferrarese school. 
 In many parts (for instance in 
 the bas-reliefs, painted on the lower 
 edge in black and white), it strongly 
 reminds one of Mazzolino, but is in- 
 ferior to him in warmth of colouring. 
 " An old (and certainly very good, 
 but now ruined) copy, on panel, of 
 the Belle Vierge, by Raphael, of 
 which the best known is in the 
 Bridgewater Gallery. 
 
 HoUiham Ch. stands in the park. 
 It is of the 14th centy., with ad- 
 ditions of the 15th and 16th; and 
 is ded. to St. Withburga, who is said 
 to have lived here (hence the name 
 IZa^Z/^ham, " holy home," — Holk- 
 ham) before her removal to East 
 Dereham (see Rte. 6). The ch. was 
 restored, almost rebuilt, in 1868-69, 
 at a cost of 10,000?., 7000?. of which 
 was expended on wood carving alone. 
 There are 60 carved bench-ends, no 
 2 of which are alike. The backs of 
 the stalls are panelled and diapered ; 
 and there is much open screen work. 
 The E. and W. windows are in 
 grisaille. The architect of the resto- 
 ration was Collings. 
 
 The parish of Holkham contains 
 692 acres of salt marsh. This tract, 
 which stretches between the park 
 and the sea, is frequented in winter 
 by many rare species of wild fowl. 
 
 [Burnham Thorpe, the birthplace 
 of Nelson, may be visited from Wells. 
 The easiest way of reaching it will 
 be to proceed by railway to the stat. 
 oiBumham Market, whence Bumham 
 Thorpe is distant about 1 m. S ; or 
 it may be reached by a long walk 
 across Holkham Park. There is, 
 however, little to see. The old rec- 
 tory in which the hero was born 
 (his father was the rector) has been 
 pulled down, and except his father's 
 tomb in the ch. it is doubtful whether 
 any memorial exists of cither. The 
 country is much wooded, and a brook 
 (the " burn," which gives name to 
 Bumham ? — there is a gathering on 
 or near its banks of six villages so 
 called; see Rte. 9) passes near 
 the ch. " Hereabouts are the scenes 
 of Nelson's boyish exploits ; his delay 
 by the brook; his adventure in the 
 snow, and triumph of honour. From 
 this quiet retreat he went forth at 
 
262 
 
 Boute 6. — Norwich to East Dereham. Sect. III. 
 
 the age of 12| years, to join tlie 
 * Eaisounable,' ut Chatham, and enter 
 on the career which made him Baion 
 Nelson of tlie Nile and Bnrnliam 
 Thovpe."— White's 'Eastern Eng.' 
 Some of our most distinguished naval 
 heroes spring from this "Saxon 
 sliore." Sir Cloudesley Shovel was 
 born at Cockthorpe, in the adjoining 
 hundred of North Greenhoe, and 
 Admiral Hawkc at Docking, while 
 Lowestoft, in Suffolk, was the cradle 
 of a number of naval captains who 
 are buried in its ch.] 
 
 [3 m. E. of Wells lies the village 
 of Stifkey (pron. " Stewkey ") in the 
 valley of the Stififkey rivulet. The 
 scenery is pretty, and especially 
 struck Arthur Young, who describes 
 the view over the valley from near 
 Warham as "a most complete and 
 pleasing picture." Near the ch. of 
 Stiff ley are the remains of an un- 
 finished mansion, begun by Sir Na- 
 thaniel Bfcoi, brother of the great 
 Lord Verulam. The front alone was 
 completed. 
 
 Between the village and the sea 
 extend the "Meals," a "waste of 
 sand and swamp, tenanted by fowl 
 and rabbits." The word is the same 
 as the "Meols" of the Cheshire 
 coast, and no doubt is the A.-S. 
 3Iael, Icel. Mol = strand-sands. The 
 Norfolk 'Meals' extend from Salt- 
 house, E. of Stiffkey, as far W. as 
 Himstanton. The sand, as in the 
 marram hills of Yarmouth is bound 
 together by grass-roots and fibres, 
 and is broken into irregular hillocks 
 in some places, in others presenting 
 a bold cliff-like front, rising perpen- 
 dicularly from the bank to a height 
 of several feet. The " Meals " are for 
 the most part preserved for sporting 
 purposes. Many rare birds are found 
 on them ; among which the sand- 
 grouse {Syrrhaptes paradoxus) some- 
 times occurs. 
 
 For the rly. from "Wells to Hun- 
 stanston and Lynn, see Kte. 9. 
 
 ROUTE 6. 
 
 NORWICH TO EAST DEREHAM BY 
 WYMONDHAM. 
 
 {Branch of Great Eastern Rly.) 
 
 The distance to East Dereham is 
 21J m. Time of transit rather more 
 than 1 hr. Victoria Stat, at Norwich. 
 
 Leaving Norwich from the Victoria 
 Stat, the train crosses the Weusum 
 on an iron swing-bridge, and sweeps 
 round the S. side of the city. It soon 
 readies 
 
 1 m. Trowse Stat., in the midst of 
 rich meadows. At Trowse Hall 
 (now a farmhouse, of no interest) 
 Edward III. and Philippa are said 
 to havejbeen lodged during a visit to 
 Norwicli. 
 
 Crossing two viaducts, one over 
 the Yare, the village of Lakenham 
 is seen rt. The rly. from Ipswich, 
 by Haughley, Diss, and Tivetshall, 
 crosses the Yare, and is carried over- 
 head on a high viaduct. 1., in a 
 richly wooded country, is KesicicJc 
 Hall, the seat of the late Hudson 
 Gurney, Esq. (Keswick Ch. has dis- 
 appeared, with the exception of its 
 (Perp.) round tower, which stands in 
 ruins at the corner of a plantation. 
 TJiere is a pleasing view from it. 
 Intwood Ch. (Perp.), also 1., has a 
 tower round below, octagonal above. 
 The old hall at Intwood (pulled 
 down) belonged to Sir Thomas 
 Gresham. 
 
KORFOLK. 
 
 Boute G.-^Hethersett — Wymondham. 
 
 263 
 
 GJ m. Eetherseft Stat. Hero still 
 stands the stump of an oak, hooped 
 and bound together, yet still vege- 
 tating, under which Kett and his 
 band took an oath " to reform abuses 
 in c] lurch and state," vowing to 
 sacrifice " substance, yea, life itself," 
 in the cause of the people, 1549 (see 
 Norwich, Kte. 1). 
 
 Beyond Hethersett a glimpse is 
 obtained, 1., of Ketteringham Hall, 
 the fine seat of Sir Francis Boileau, 
 Bart., in a well-wooded park. Here 
 are some interesting antiquities : the 
 sword of Bayard (on which are two 
 inscriptions, " Vincere aut mors," and 
 " Soli Deo gloria,") ; a halbert from 
 Morat ; Etruscan remains ; family 
 portraits. The imrish Church (which 
 has nave and chancel — no aisles) 
 contains many memorials of former 
 lords of Ketteringham; which, after 
 many changes, passed early in the 
 loth cent, to Sir Henry Grey (one of 
 the Northumberland Greys). The 
 E. window of the ch. had formerly in 
 its centre the figure of this Sir Henry, 
 wlio rebuilt the chancel. This 
 figure has entirely disappeared : the 
 window has been "restored;" the 
 original portions — the Annunciation, 
 figures of saints, and some armorial 
 shields — remaining, whilst many 
 fragments from other windows have 
 been worked up in it. The Greys 
 were succeeded by Heveninghams ; 
 and in the ch. is the canopied altar- 
 tomb of Thomas Heveningham, d. 
 1499, with small enamelled brasses — 
 kneeling figures of himself and wife. 
 He is recorded as " baronettns," a 
 singiilar title before the creations of 
 James I. ; but the heirs of Hevening- 
 ham, being created knights, were 
 permitted to take and keep the name 
 of "knights bannerets," which, like 
 " baronet," signified a minor baron. 
 Another William Heveningham, one 
 of the Charles I. '-regicides," but 
 afterwards pardoned (died in 1677), 
 is buried in the ch. ; and the monu- 
 ment erected for him and for their 
 children by his wife, Lady Mary, is a 
 
 good example of the time. There 
 arc many monuments for the family 
 of Atkyns, which succeeded. In 
 1836 Ketteringham was bought by 
 J. P. Boileau, Esq., of Tacoluestone 
 Hall, who was created a baronet in 
 1838. 
 
 The lofty towers of Wymondham 
 Ch. are conspicuous it., as the train 
 reaches 
 
 lOJ ra. Wymondham Stat. (Here 
 passengers for E. Dereham change. 
 The main line proceeds by Thetford 
 to Ely ; Kte. 12.) Wymondham 
 (Inns : King's Head ; White Hart), 
 pron. Windham (it was from this 
 place that the Windham family was 
 named) ; a market-town, with a de- 
 creasing population; that of the en- 
 tire parish in 1861 was 4952 ; grew 
 up round a Benedictine priory, 
 founded before 1107, by William 
 de Albini, chief butler (pincerna 
 regis) to Henry I. By him the 
 priory (made subordinate to St. 
 Alban's) was amply endowed with 
 lands; and Henry I. added more, 
 besides certain privileges, such as the 
 right to all wrecks on the Norfolk 
 coast between Eccles, Happisburgh, 
 and Tunstead, and 2000 eels annually 
 fiom the parish of Elingey. In 1448 
 the priory was made an independent 
 abbey, a bull being procured from 
 Pope Nicholas V. At the Dissolution 
 it was valued at 21 IZ. 16s. 6fZ. (JDug- 
 dale.) 
 
 The Church of St. Mary and St. 
 Alban, now the parish ch., but 
 attached to the abbey, is well worth 
 a visit. It is remarkable for having 
 two towers, one square, at the W. 
 end, the other (once central) smaller, 
 and rising into an octagon. It would 
 seem that the nave always served as 
 the parish ch., and that the choir, 
 and other portions beyond it (always 
 separated from the nave by a solid 
 wall; formed the ch. of the abbey. 
 The nave (the only part of the ch. 
 remaining) consists of a central aisle, 
 with Norm, piers and arches ; a N. 
 
^C4 
 
 iioiite 6. — Wy')nond}iam Church. 
 
 ^ect. ilL 
 
 aislo of Pcrp. date, wider than the 
 centre ; and a S. aisle, wliich is 
 perhaps originally E. E., with Perp. 
 and debased insertions. The pier 
 arches and tritbrium of the nave 
 belong to the original work, temp. 
 Hen. I. " Though the nave of 
 Wymondham is far inferior in scale 
 to those of Norwicli and Ely, it 
 somewhat partakes of their charac' 
 ter. As in these examples, the 
 triforium is a large and important 
 feature, consisting in each bay, like 
 that of the former cathedral, of a 
 single undivided semicircular arch, 
 not much differing in size or eleva- 
 tion from the pier arch below." — 
 Bev. J. L. Petit. The piers are 
 square and massive, and the arches 
 enriched witli zigzag cable mould- 
 ings, and other ornaments. The 
 clerestory is Perp., and there is an 
 excellent Perp. open roof, of a type 
 somewhat unusual in Norfolk. The 
 easternmost bay forms the chancel, 
 and was separated from the eastern 
 eh. by a solid screen, with side doors. 
 " This peculiar arrangement is per- 
 haps somewhat analogous to that of 
 St. Alban's and Crowland Abbey, 
 where a large screen, with two side 
 doors instead of a central one, divides 
 the nave from the choir." — Rev. J. 
 L. Petit (whose memoir on this ch. 
 will be found in the Norwich vol. of 
 the ' Arch. Institute.') S. of the altar 
 is a very rich " renaissance " struc- 
 ture in terra cotta, forming a triple 
 arch, with canopies. These arches 
 may have served as sedilia, but, if so, 
 are unique in character. The nave 
 is full of pews and ugly monuments 
 against the piers, and sadly wants a 
 *' clearing." The font is fine Perp. 
 
 The N. aisle has a very rich Perp. 
 roof. The S. aisle has apparently 
 debased windows inserted in E. E. 
 arches. In the spandrels of the S. 
 porch is a representation of the An- 
 nunciation. The W. or main tower is 
 superb, and was built (1410-1470) 
 by the parishioners, who here, as 
 at Norwich, Bury, and elsewhere, 
 
 were at perpetual feud with the 
 monks. It is of flint and stone, with 
 stone shafts at the angles, and octa- 
 gonal buttresses. In the uppermost 
 story are double windows, under an 
 ogee arch. Remark the remains of 
 a very rich parapet above the nave 
 clerestory. 
 
 From the S.W. angle of the ch.-yd. 
 the E. or octagonal tower, much 
 draped with ivy, is very picturesque. 
 It is Perp., but of earlier date than 
 the W. tower. Some ruins of the 
 chancel remain, and of a large square 
 chapel (or chapter-house?) on the 
 S. side. But the greater portion of 
 the ruins were "cleared away" in 
 1832. At the Dissolution, the in- 
 habitants of "Wymondham procured 
 a grant of certain portions of the 
 monastic buildings, and of the choir 
 which had served as the ch. of the 
 abbey. In spite of this grant, Ser- 
 jeant Flowerdew, of Hethersett, a 
 great destroyer of church property, 
 and so eager for spoil that at Hether- 
 sett, where he was himself buried, 
 he is said to have removed tombs, 
 and to have taken their leaden wrap- 
 pings from the dead — strijDped the 
 lead from the roofs of the choir and 
 other buildings, and carried off the 
 " freestone " from the choir, which 
 soon fell into complete ruin. (In 
 it the founder, William de Albini, 
 had been buried, before the high 
 altar.) The Ketts of Wymondham, 
 who had procured the grant, and 
 were very desirous to save the ch., 
 never forgave Flowerdew, and on 
 the outbreak of the rebellion, in 
 1549 (see Norwicli, Rte. 1), one of 
 the first acts of the rebels was, at 
 Kett's instigation, to throw down 
 certain fences which Flowerdew had 
 newly erected at Hethersett. Robert 
 Kett, the chief leader, was a tanner 
 of this place— a man of an old local 
 family, and of some property. He 
 was hanged from the battlement of 
 Norwich Castle. His brother, Wil- 
 liam Kett, was hanged in chains 
 from the steeple of Wymondham. 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Bonte 6. — Kimherley — Hingliam. 
 
 265 
 
 Near the ch. is the Perp. chapel of 
 St. Thomas of Canterbury, now used 
 as the grammar school. 
 
 Wymondham fair was held on the 
 8tli of July, the translation of St. 
 Thomas. " Grand processions and 
 interludes " then went on, and people 
 assembled from all quarters. It was 
 at this fair, in 1549, that the rebel- 
 lion broke out (see Kte. 1). 
 
 In the market-place is the old 
 cross, raised on three steps, and a 
 room above it, built 1616, and re- 
 stored in 1863. It is octagonal, of 
 wood and plaster, supported on 8 
 wooden pillars, with stone bases. 
 The floor and the great beams are 
 worth notice. On the walls are carved 
 the town arms, and many articles of 
 turnery — wooden spindles, spoons, 
 &c. — for which Wymondham was 
 once famous. The room serves as a 
 reading room. 
 
 [2 m. N,E. of Wymondham is 
 Stan field Hall, a moated Tudor house, 
 well known as the scene (Nov. 28, 
 1848) of the murder of the two 
 Jermys, father and son, by Eush. 
 Mrs. Jermy and her maid were 
 wounded. Stanfield Hall, and not 
 Lidcote, on the borders of Exmoor, as 
 we have all learned to believe, was 
 the home of Amy Robsart, daughter 
 and heiress of Sir John Robsart, of 
 Stanfield, and the ill-fated wife of 
 Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. 
 Stanfield seems to have belonged, at 
 this time, to the Appleyard family, 
 but it was certainly occupied by Sir 
 John Robsart. 
 
 In AslnceltJiorpe Ch., 4 m. S.W., 
 are the fine effigies of Sir Edmund 
 de Thorpe and his wife, engraved by 
 Stothard.] 
 
 Leaving "Wymondham by the 
 branch line to E. Dereham, we 
 reach 
 
 14 m. from Norwich, Kimherley 
 Stat. At no great distance rt. is 
 Kimherley Hall (Earl of Kimberleyj, 
 a modern brick mansion of Italian 
 
 \_Essex, rf'c] 
 
 character, standing in a park which, 
 although flat, is rendered striking by 
 its magnificent trees. Here, among 
 many objects of interest, is a portrait 
 of Vanclycl; by himself, when young. 
 In the house, preserved as lieir- 
 looms, are a rosary of coral beads, 
 intermixed with gold, given by Cathe- 
 rine, Queen of Henry V., to the wife 
 of Sir John Wodehouse who fought 
 at Agincourt ; and the silver hilt of 
 a sword and a poniard which be- 
 longed to the same brave knight. In 
 token of Sir John's prowess, Henry 
 gave him as his motto " Agincourt," 
 or, as the family bear it, " Frappe 
 fort, Agincourt." The title of Baron 
 Wodehouse was conferred, in 1797, 
 on a family which had existed here 
 as knights and baronets since the 
 time of Henry IV, : it has since be- 
 come that of Earl of Kimherley. 
 The ancient crest of the house was a 
 " wode," mad or savage man ; called 
 in heraldry a " wode house." Two of 
 them appear as supporters to the 
 shield of arms. The "Kimherley 
 Wildman " was long the sign of the 
 village inn. 
 
 The carr or ivood of oaks in the 
 park, rising from the margin of a 
 lake of 28 acres, is considered the 
 finest in Norfolk. 
 
 The parish ch. contains a brass 
 for John Wodehouse, in armour 
 (146.")), and several monuments to 
 the Wodehouses. 
 
 [3^- m. S.E. of Kimherley Stat, is 
 the very fine Ch. of Hingham (ded. to 
 St. Andrew), well deserving a visit. 
 It is late (ciu'vilinear; Dec. and Perp., 
 and was built almost entirely by Remi- 
 gius of Hethersett, rector from 1316 
 to 1359. (" He was," says Blomefield, 
 "a man of great note in his time, 
 being trustee and feoflee for most of 
 the best families in the county,") 
 The main arcade is beautiful work, 
 dating from the middle of the 14th 
 cent. It is very lofty, with a small 
 clerestory above, and heads at the 
 intersections of the main arches. 
 
 N 
 
266 
 
 JRoute 6. — Hingliam — Deoj^Tiam. 
 
 Sect. in. 
 
 The roof is not greatly enriched, but I 
 has some graceful open carving. 
 There is a lofty arch open to the 
 tower, and an equally lotty chancel 
 arch. The chancel is long, with 2 
 late Dec. windows on either side. 
 The E. window is Perp., with heavy 
 stone work. It is filled with Flemish 
 (?) glass of Perp. date, obtained from 
 abroad in 1813, by Lord Wodehouse 
 of Kimbcrley, very silvery in tone 
 and rich in colour. The principal 
 subjects are from the life of our Lord, 
 with, in front, the Virgin and Child, 
 and a small figure of St. Catherine, 
 on whose finger the Lifant Saviour is 
 placing the ring. On the N. side of 
 the chancel is the very stately altar- 
 tomb (much shattered and defaced) 
 of Thomas I - rd Morley, Baron of 
 Kye, and Marshal of Ireland; died 
 1435. He served in the French wars 
 of Henry V., and a covenant remains 
 in which the king agrees that this 
 Lord Morley should have all the 
 prisoners he and his men could take, 
 except kings, princes, kings' sons, 
 and some others. The whole design 
 of the monument is remarkable for 
 its richness and originality. The 
 altar-tomb, on which remain the 
 matrices of two large brasses — those 
 of Lord Morley and his w^fe— stands 
 within a canopied arch thickly set 
 with figures, and having at the back 
 many small " weejDers." At the base 
 are the shields of Morley, Marshall, 
 Bourchier, De la Pole, and others. 
 Above, in a central niche, is the 
 Saviour, vv^ith kneeling figures of a 
 knight and lady. 
 
 On the N. side of the chancel are 
 the ruins of the sacristy (?). The 
 tower, fine and lofty (120 ft.), is late 
 Dec, of the same date as the rest of 
 the ch. 
 
 Hingham passed (after the death 
 of John le Marshall, in 1316) from 
 tlic Marshalls, Barons of Eye, to the 
 Morleys, Robert de Morley having 
 married the heiress of the Marshalls. 
 Hingham was regarded as the head 
 of the barony of Bye, in Sussex. 
 
 John Marshall of Hingham was 
 created Marshal of Ireland in 1207 ; 
 and both the barony and the mar- 
 shalship passed to the INIorlcys. 
 Ralph of Hingham, Canon of St. 
 Paul's in London, Justice of the 
 King's Bench, and Justice Itinerant 
 in 1271 and following years, was born 
 here, and died in 1308. His tomb 
 in old St. Paul's recorded him as 
 " flos legum " — 
 
 " Ex Hengham dictus Raduliibus vir bcne- 
 dictus." 
 
 Nevertheless, he was deprived of his 
 rank, and fined 7000 marks, at what 
 Fuller calls "the general purging 
 and garbling of the Judges," in the 
 18th year of Edward I. 
 
 Thomas Moor, Vicar of Hingham, 
 in the fh'st half of the 17th cent., a 
 man of '' very violent schismatical 
 spirit," pulled down the altar rails, 
 and lowered both altar and chancel. 
 Bp. Wren interfered. Moor fled, and 
 passed to New England, with many 
 of his parishioners, where they 
 " erected a town and colony by the 
 name of Hingham." After the de- 
 position of the bishops, Moor re- 
 turned, and resumed his rectory, 
 presiding over the original Hingham 
 from 1646 till his deatJi, in 1656. 
 
 (Across the country, some 3 m. 
 S.E. of Hingham, is Deopham, a fine 
 ch. with a Dec. nave and a noble 
 Perp. tower, a landmark for the 
 surrounding country. § m. from the 
 ch. is a lofty elm called " Deopham 
 high tree," shorn and pollarded, but, 
 like the tower, conspicuous for many 
 miles round. Evelyn, in his ' Forest 
 Trees,' records an " extraordinary 
 large and stately linden-tree," which 
 grew here, and was cut down early 
 in the last century. It was " 16 
 yds. about the root near the earth," 
 and 30 yds;, to the uppermost boughs, 
 "surmounting the famous tilia of 
 Zurich in Switzerland." At Great 
 ElUngliam, 4 m. S.W. of Hingham, is 
 a late Dec. Ch., with a light arcade. 
 
KoEFOLK. Bte. G. — ScouUon^Weytand Wood — East Dereliam. 267 
 
 a well -developed cliaucel, and good 
 window tracery. iTlie tower has a 
 shingled spire. All tliese villages 
 have greens, and some fine trees 
 ahout them. The tonrist may cross 
 from Hingham by Deopham and 
 Ellingham to Attleborough, where is 
 a very fine and interesting ch. (Rte. 
 12). Tlie distance will be about 
 10 m., through a flat district, not 
 very picturesque, though here and 
 there commanding wide views over a 
 well-wooded country. The only land- 
 marks are such great ch. towers as 
 Deopham or Hingham. 
 
 rt. of the road, 2 J m. W. of Hing- 
 ham, is Scoulfon, where there is a 
 mere 2 m. round, with its banks 
 thickly set with reeds and bul- 
 rushes. Here plovers breed in enor- 
 mous numbers, and their eggs are 
 collected by thousands for the London 
 market. The scene is very curious, 
 but the mere can be visited only by 
 special permission. 
 
 It was in this part of Norfolk that, 
 according to a local tradition, 
 
 " A gentleman of good account 
 In Norfolke dwelt of late, 
 Who did in honour far surmount 
 Most men of his estate." 
 
 Between Scoulton and the village 
 of Watton (3 m.) is Weyland or 
 " Wailing" Wood, in which the 
 " lamentable tragedy " of the Babes 
 in the Wood is said to have been 
 consummated. Here — 
 
 " These pretty babes, with hand in hand. 
 
 Went wandering up and down ; 
 But never more could see the man 
 
 Approaching from the town. 
 Their pretty lips with blacliberries 
 
 Were all besmeared and dyed ; 
 And when they saw the darksome night 
 
 They sat them down and cried." 
 
 It may be doubted whether the 
 name of the wood (in Domesday, 
 Wanelunt — it gives name to the 
 hundred, and the sheriffs tourn was 
 always held at a certain place in the 
 wood) has not given rise to this 
 localisation of the story. "Wanelunt 
 
 (wan land, ican = poor, rough ?) be- 
 came Weyland, as the hundred is 
 now called, and Weyland here passed 
 into "Wailing." The Church of 
 Watton (except the nave) was re- 
 built in 1840. Over the N. porch 
 was a crucifix — which has been re- 
 moved to the E. end. 
 
 Merton Hall, 2 m. S. of Watton, is 
 an old house belonging to Lord 
 Walsingham.)] 
 
 Eeturning to the Dereham Railway, 
 the next station is— 
 
 15| m. Sardingham; then 
 17f m. Thuxton Stat. ; and 
 19f Yaxham Stat. There is 
 nothing calling for special notice at 
 any of these stations. [At Shipdham, 
 6 m. S.W. of Yaxham, is a library in 
 a small room above the ch. porch. 
 (The ch. is of the 15th centy.) The 
 library belongs to the rector for the 
 time being, and is sold with the 
 advowson. It is said to contain some 
 Caxtons, and certainly does contain 
 " The Floure of the Commandments," 
 printed by Wynkyn de Worde, 1509 ; 
 with some other rarities. There is 
 an illuminated Psalter of the 15th 
 cent.] At 
 
 21J m. East Dereham Stat, is a 
 Junction of lines ; one branching N. 
 by Fakenham and Walsingham to 
 Wells (Rte. 8); the other proceed- 
 ing W. by Swaffham to Lynn (Rte. 
 
 The town of East Dereham (Pop. 
 of parish, 4368 ; Inn : King's Arms) 
 is interesting from its fine Ch., and 
 for its associations with the Poet 
 Cowper, who is buried here. " The 
 ch.," says Southey, "is remarkable 
 for many remains of antiquity ; an ' 
 unless we should in some stage ot 
 national insanity imitate the French 
 in their foolery, and translate au- 
 thors from their graves as saints 
 were formerly translated, it will be 
 visited hereafter by travellers for 
 Cowper's sake." — Life of Cowper, 
 iii. 205. The town is clean and 
 
 N 2 
 
:gs 
 
 jRoute 6. — East Dereham : Church. 
 
 Sect. ill. 
 
 pleasant, Avilli some nohlc trees in 
 the clinrelij'ard, and altogether was 
 no bad retreat for the stricken poet, 
 Avho lived here from 1796 till his 
 death, in ISOO. 
 
 Dereham Church (dedicated to St. 
 Nicliolas) is nevertheless indebted 
 for its origin to St. Withburga, one 
 of the many sainted daughters of 
 Anna, King of the East Anglians in 
 tlie 7th cent. She had bnilt for her- 
 self an oratory at Holkham, but 
 afterwards removed to this place, 
 giving herself and her " family " of 
 maidens to a life of contemplation. 
 She laid the foundation here of a large 
 ch, and nunnery, and, dying in 743, 
 was buried in the churchyard. More 
 than 50 years afterwards her remains 
 were translated into the ch. Her 
 body, says the legend, was found 
 incorrupt; and a spring of most 
 pure Avater issued from the grave 
 in which she had been lying. She 
 was A^enerated at East Dereham for 
 many generations, until King Edgar 
 gave Dereham to the monastery at 
 Ely, and with it the body of St. 
 Withburga. So great was the resist- 
 ance of the men of Dereham to the 
 removal of their treasure that the 
 monks were obliged to steal it by 
 night, and only with great diflSculty 
 conveyed it to Ely, where Withburga 
 rested near the shrine of her more 
 famous sister, St. Etheldreda. Dur- 
 ing her life at East Dereham, St. 
 Withburga and her maidens are said 
 to have been miraculously fed by 
 tw^o milch deer, which came every 
 morning to a certain bridge, and 
 waited there to be milked. But a 
 man in the jjlaee, " instigated by the 
 Devil," took bow and arrows and 
 killed both the deer ; after which he 
 was, of course, " smitten with jaun- 
 dice, consumed aw'ay, and miserably 
 died." This legend (which, or a 
 very similar one, is told of other 
 saints) seems to have found a rest- 
 ing-place liere in connection with 
 the name of the place — Deor-ham 
 (_Derrega in Domesday). 
 
 Tiie ch. consists of nave, with aisles, 
 central tower, short transept with 
 eastern chapels, and chancel. The 
 chancel is E. E., Avith a Perp, E. 
 window. The chancel arch is Perp. ; 
 but at the sides are singular twisted 
 shafts belonging to older (Trans. 
 Norm.) work. The arch opening to 
 the N. transept is Dec., with short 
 shafts carried on brackets terminat- 
 ing in knots. The central tower, 
 with lantern and graceful arcade, 
 is Early Perp. and very good. In 
 the nave the arcade seems Perp., 
 but carried on late E. E. piers. The 
 original roof remains in the transept 
 chapels, and is diapered with double- 
 headed eagles, and other devices. In 
 the S. transept is the very fine Perp. 
 font, which, when perfect, must have 
 been equal to any in Norfolk. It dis- 
 plays the 7 Sacraments. Angels sup- 
 port the basin ; and on the steps arc 
 figures of saints. Much colom* is 
 traceable imder the white paint witii 
 w^hich it is now covered. Here is 
 also a fine Flemish (?) chest, with 
 figures of saints, and a remarkable 
 lock. A small figure of the Saviour, 
 wearing the crowm of thorns, and 
 with His hands bound in front, lifts 
 up and displays the keyhole beneath. 
 A brass plate indicates that the 
 chest, said to have been taken from 
 the ruins of Buckenham Castle, the 
 property of the Howards, was given 
 to the ch. by Samuel Kash, Jan. 1, 
 1786. It apparently dates from the 
 first years of the 16th cent., and is 
 certainly not " 400 years old," as 
 is asserted. 
 
 The organ, by Schmidt, is praised 
 by Dr. Burney in his 'History of 
 Music.' In the ch. are 2 hrasse.s, 
 small, but worth notice : Ed. Kelyng, 
 Vicar, 1479, and Etheldreda Castell, 
 1406. 
 
 In the N. transept, known as the 
 Chapel of St. Edmund, under the 
 N. window, is the grave of Con-pcr. 
 He died in a house in the market- 
 place (see post), April 25, 1800, where 
 his old friend and companion, Mrs. 
 
Norfolk. Boute 6. — East Dereham : Cowjper's Grave. 269 
 
 Unwiu, had died in 1796. She also 
 is buried here ; and the inscriptions 
 on both the memorial tablets were 
 written by Hayley. The monument 
 was erected at the cost of Lady Hes- 
 keth ; but it seems to have been 
 designed by Hayley, who in a letter 
 to Lady Hesketh talks of the " ele- 
 gance of my design." " Blake as- 
 sures me," he adds, "the plaister 
 motlel of the monument, now in 
 Flaxman's study, is universally ad- 
 mired for its elegant simplicity."— 
 Southei/s ' Life of Cowper,' iii. 
 238. It may faii'ly be said of it that 
 it does not mar by any obtrusive- 
 ness the sad and solemn feeling 
 which natui'ally arises at the grave 
 of Cowper. 
 
 The Perp. S. porch, of flint and 
 stone, with niches, and 2 external 
 stoups, built temp. Hen. VII., by 
 Koger and Margaret Boton, and the 
 E. E. door, which it encloses, should 
 be noticed. On the S. side of the 
 eh. stands an enormous square tower, 
 called " the new Clocker " — built in 
 the reign of Hen. VII. — when the 
 central tower of the ch. was found 
 too weak to support the bells. The 
 lower walls of the tower are 9 ft. 
 thick. In the uppermost stage are 
 Perp. windows. Close to the W. end 
 of the ell. is St. Withhurgas Well, the 
 spring which is said to have burst 
 forth from her grave. It is in a 
 small enclosed plot, full of flowers, 
 having at one end an arch (not of 
 early character) with an inscription 
 recording that Withburga, youngest 
 daughter of Annas (Anna), King of 
 the E. Anglians, was once buried 
 there. The spring was famous for 
 its mu'aculous cures, and was re- 
 sorted to by numerous pilgrims. 
 
 The liouse in icliich Cowper died 
 (April 2.5, 1800) is now " Gurney 
 and Birkbeck's " Bank. It is a small 
 house, at present whitened, but built 
 apparently of red brick, standing in 
 the market-place, a few doors above 
 the King's Arms Inn, " The house 
 
 at Dereham," writes Southey, " was 
 not found less suitable for him, be- 
 cause it fronted the market-place; 
 that circumstance was by no means 
 displeasing to him ; and there was 
 a way into the fields without enter- 
 ing the street." The house belonged 
 to Cowper's cousin,. John Johnson, 
 who brought him from Weston into 
 Norfolk, and remained in close at- 
 tendance on the poet until his death. 
 Cowper and Mrs. Unwin came into 
 Norfolk in July, 1795. Their first 
 home was in an old parsonage at 
 North Tuddenham, about 4 m. E. of 
 E. Dereham. Thence they removed 
 to Dunham Lodge, near SwaflTiam ; 
 and thence, in October, 1796, to E. 
 Dereham. In December of that year 
 Mrs. Unwin died. During his resi- 
 dence here Cowper made several 
 visits to the coast at Mundesley 
 (Kte. 8). His mother's relatives 
 had all been natives of Norfolk. His 
 name is in good remembrance at E. 
 Dereham; and the "Independent 
 Order of Odd Fellows," besides a 
 "Feeling Heart," have a "Poet 
 Cowper" Lodge — an honour wliicli, 
 had it been bestowed in his lifetime, 
 might well have drawn an amusing 
 " copy of verses " from the author 
 of ' John Gilpin.' 
 
 The country around E. Dereliain 
 is pleasing, and abounds with gar- 
 dens and orchards. The Ch. of 
 GressenJiall, 2h m. N.W., is E. E., 
 with some good panel paintings on 
 the screen. The archaeologist shoul d , 
 from E. Dereham, visit Elsing Cn. ; 
 and he may drive round by Bijlamjh 
 (pron. Belaugh) Hall, returning by 
 Swanston Morley. The round will 
 be about 12 m. Elsing Ch. is through- 
 out late Dec. (curvilinear), and was 
 built by Sir Hugh Hastings (died 
 1347), whose fine brass remains here. 
 It consists of a broad nave without 
 aisles, a well-developed chancel, and 
 a western tower. The windows have 
 flowing and peculiar tracery. The 
 plain but good nave roof is o^'igiiial. 
 
270 
 
 Boute 6. — JElsing Church and Hall. vSect. III. 
 
 That of the chancel is new. The 
 tower arch opening to the nave is 
 tmusually narrow. Some fragments 
 of stained glass remain in the E. 
 window ; and part of the chancel 
 screen has been used as a rercdos. 
 (The E. window seems to have con- 
 tained the figures of the founder. Sir 
 Hugh Hastings and his wife.) The 
 font is very graceful, with a flowing 
 pattern round the basin. The ori- 
 ginal cover exists, and is said to be 
 tlie most ancient in England ; but 
 it has at present (1868) been removed 
 for "restoration." In the chancel is 
 the brass of Sir Hugh Hastings, pro- 
 tected by a board. It has been very 
 fine, and much enriched with shields 
 of arms in enamel. In the canopy 
 appear St. George and the Dragon. 
 Above are figures of the Saviom- and 
 the Virgin. At the sides were 8 
 " weepers " in armour. Ed. III., 
 Thos. Beauchamp, E. of "Warwick, 
 Despencer (? lost), Koger Lord Grey 
 of Euthyn (lost), Hen. Piantagenet 
 E. of Lancaster, Lawrence Hastings, 
 E. of Pembroke (lost), Kalph, Lord 
 Stafford, and Lord St. Amand— all 
 the effigies with armorial bearings 
 on the jui^ons. This striking brass, 
 — one of the only 3 which exist 
 belonging to the first 25 years of 
 Edw. III. (the others are Sir John 
 Giffard, at Bowers Gifford, Essex ; 
 and Sir John deWantyng, Wimbish, 
 Essex) — is probably of foreign work- 
 manship. The legs of the principal 
 figure are gone. 
 
 In the chancel is an altar-tomb for 
 " Dame Anne, Anthony Browne his 
 wife," with some quaint verses. 
 Some ancient stained glass, removed 
 from a window in the nave, is pre- 
 served in cases in the vestry. The 
 N. ; porch and door ^with its rich 
 heading should be noticed. The S. 
 porch and door are plainer. 
 
 Elsing Hall, on the site of the an- 
 cient hall of the Hastings family, is 
 now a farmhouse. It contains some 
 very ancient portions, but is mainly 
 
 of the Ifith cent. The long sandy 
 ridge of high ground on which By- 
 laugh Hall stands rises beyond the 
 Eiver "VVensum, here lined by broad 
 marshes and meadows. On the 
 stream are swans belonging to the 
 Hall. Bylaugh Ch. has a round 
 tower, but the greater part is modern. 
 Bylaugh Hall (Rev. H. E. Lombe, 
 who represents the great families of 
 Foliot and Hastings) is a vast mo- 
 dern Italian house, with a clock- 
 tower detached from the chief mass 
 of building. It has been richly 
 decorated within by German artists. 
 The gardens and grounds are good, 
 and there is a large park, studded 
 with young plantations. The house 
 stands unusually high for this part 
 of England, and commands wide 
 views. It is possible to drive through 
 the park (leave being obtained) ; 
 and beyond it the ground again 
 slopes to the Wensum, and the Ch. 
 of Swanston Morley is reached. This 
 is Perp., with peculiar transomed 
 windows in the nave, and richer 
 windows at the ends of the aisles. 
 The main arcade is light and lofty ; 
 and the tower opens into the nave 
 with lofty arches on 3 sides. The 
 peculiar reticulation of the " sound 
 holes" in the tower (as the lesser C 
 openings are called) should be no- 
 ticed. There are large windows in 
 the topmost story. There is a plea- 
 sant view from the churchyard, look- 
 ing toward Bylaugh. 
 
KORFOLK. 
 
 Boiite 7. — East Dereham to Lynn. 
 
 271 
 
 ROUTE 7. 
 
 EAST DEREHAM TO LYNN BY SWAFF- 
 HAM (castle acre, OXBUKGH, 
 
 narford). 
 {Branch of Great Eastern Railway.) 
 
 Soon after leaving East Dereham, 
 the rly. passes, 1., Seaming, where is 
 a large mixed Church, with a late 
 Perp, tower and nave, and Dec. S. 
 doorway and porch. The chancel, 
 with Dec. walls and Perp. arch, E. 
 window, and piscina, has a rood-loft 
 and a small bell, said to have been 
 the sanctus-bell. The font is E. 
 Eng., but with some Perp. additions 
 below. It is curious. 
 
 4 m. Wendling Stat. 
 
 7 m. Fransham Stat. In the 
 Ch. of Great Fransham is the fine 
 brass of Geoffi-y Fransham, 1414. 
 
 [2§ m. N.W. is Dunham Magna, 
 one of the churches supposed to be 
 Saxon. The central tower has long 
 and short work, small round-headed 
 windows splayed inside and out, 
 ])elfry windows with central shaft 
 (baluster). The E, arch has a 
 rude cable-moulding impost. " The 
 western arch has the regular Norm, 
 star ornament on the impost mould- 
 ing, the same as in the chapel in 
 the White Tower, London." The 
 nave has, on the N. side, an arcade 
 of shallow panelling (but much of 
 this arcade has been cut away, to 
 give room for the present windows), 
 with segmental arches ; on this side 
 is an Early window. The S. door is 
 E. Eng., with a Perp. porch. The 
 chancel is poor Perp., as is the font. 
 At the W. end a triangular-headed 
 canopy over a square-headed door- 
 way (now blocked) merits notice. 
 
 What seem to be Roman bricks 
 appear in the construction of much 
 of the building. *' The imposts or 
 caps consist of square mouldings in 
 reversed steps, like a window at 
 Deerhurst. . . . From the occur- 
 rence of the same ornaments here 
 as at Deerhurst, and the chapel in 
 the White Tower, London, we may 
 almost venture to assign this ch. to 
 the end of the reign of Edward the 
 Confessor, or the beginning of that 
 of the Conqueror."— J". K P.] 
 
 8| m. Little Dunham Stat. 
 
 [3 m. S. is Necton, where the 
 Church has a curiously wrought 
 oaken roof. At the springing of the 
 ribs are carved angels, and below, 
 upon brackets, are the twelve 
 AjDostles. Here are a pulpit of 
 carved oak, and brasses to Thomas 
 Goodwyn, 1532 ; to Ismena de Wyn- 
 ston, 1372, Avith a singular head- 
 dress ; to Mary Rust, 1596 ; and to 
 Philippa de Beauchamp, in a nun's 
 dress, 1384. 
 
 In Hone's ' Every Day Book ' is an 
 account of the Necton Guild, an 
 annual Whitsun fair, at which a 
 May-pole is set up, and foot-races, 
 wrestling-matches, and various vil- 
 lage sports are continued for two or 
 three days. 
 
 12J m. Swaffham Stat. {Lin: 
 Crown. Pop. 3358.) This is an 
 unimportant market-town, with a 
 spacious unpaved market - place, 
 where much butter is sold; and a 
 large Perp. Church, built about 
 1474. In the ch. is the altar-tomb 
 and effigy (with collar or tippet over 
 his gown, and a small cap) of John 
 Botewright, Master of Corpus Christi 
 College, Cambridge, and chaplain to 
 Henry VI. He built the chancel. 
 The open roof of wood is hncly carved 
 and supported by angels (whose out- 
 spread wings produce a striking and 
 curious effect) bearing the symbols 
 of our Lord's Passion. There arc 
 
272 
 
 Boute 7. — SimffJiam — Castle Acre. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 remains of a wooden screen with 
 paintings, and a roodloft stair. The 
 ch. lias been newly seated and partly 
 "restored;" and although galleries 
 have been retained, they are not 
 very objectionable. Some of the old 
 bench-ends, with curious figures of 
 preachers, have been worked up in 
 the reading-desk. Both transept 
 and chancel are short and shallow. 
 A fine Perp. arch, opening to the 
 tower, is crossed by a gallery, half- 
 way up. The tower, grand and 
 massive, was completed in 1510, but 
 is degraded by a modern lantern on 
 its summit. A bell turret (the 
 sanctus ? ) on the gable of the nave 
 is crowned by the figure of an angel. 
 A fine avenue of limes crosses the 
 churchyard. Near the town (N.W.) 
 is a spacious racecoui'se, unused since 
 1861. 
 
 Castle Acre, Cressinqliam Manor 
 House, and Oxburgli Hall, may best 
 be visited from Swaffham Station. 
 
 [(a.) 4 m. N. from SwaflTham is 
 * Castle Acre, a village on N. bank of 
 the Nar, mostly built out of the 
 materials of the priory and the 
 castle, the remains of which make 
 this a very interesting spot. The 
 drive from Swaif ham will take about 
 half an hour. " Swatf ham Splashes" 
 is first crossed — a furzy common, 
 wet in winter. The chalk country 
 beyond is somewhat dreary, with 
 little wood. After crossing the 
 river, the ruins of the Priory are 
 seen 1. in a pleasant valley, watered 
 by the clear sti'eam of the Nar, at a 
 short distance from the village. The 
 great mound of the Castle will be 
 passed before entering the street, 
 and may be fii'st visited. 
 
 The site of the castle was granted 
 by the Conqueror to William de 
 Warrene, who married Gundrada, 
 daughter of Matilda of Flanders, 
 who, after the death of her first 
 husband, became the wife of the 
 Conqueror. (See Freeman's ' Norm. 
 Conq.,' vol. iii,) He founded here 
 
 a castle and Cluniac priory, as he 
 had done at Lewes, in Sussex, where 
 the remains of himself and of his 
 wife have been discovered within 
 the last few years. (William and 
 Gundrada had been received with 
 special hospitality at Clugny on 
 their way to liome, and were great 
 patrons of the order. It may be 
 remarked that the castle and priory 
 here — one on high, the other 'on 
 low ground — occupy nearly the same 
 respective positions as the castle 
 and priory at Lewes.) The castle 
 at Acre is now entirely without 
 architectural interest ; but its ground 
 plan — or rather the plan of the 
 enormous earthworks which still 
 remain — is very curious and notice- 
 able, as has been clearly pointed 
 out by Mr. Harrod (' Castles and 
 Convents of Norfolk '). These works 
 consist of a circular moimd, hav- 
 ing a work of a horse-shoe form 
 attached to it S., and a small square 
 enclosure N.E. On the W., extend- 
 ing beyond the town, and nearly to 
 the ch., is a very large camp or en- 
 closure, irregularly square. On the 
 circular mound, which is the highest, 
 Mr. -Harrod discovered the founda- 
 tions of the principal tower — of no 
 great size, but with very thick walls. 
 This mound is still encircled by a 
 curtain wall with shallow buttresses, 
 overgrown in parts with ivy. With- 
 in the horse - shoe enclosure are 
 foundations of buildings. Coins of 
 Vespasian and Constantino have 
 been found here ; and Mr. Harrod, 
 in excavating on the circular mound, 
 discovered much Eoman pottery. 
 His conclusions are that the great 
 enclosure stretching toward the 
 church was a Eoman camp, the 
 irregular form of which was ren- 
 dered necessary from the desire to 
 connect it with still earlier (British) 
 mounds and earthworks, on which 
 the Norman castle was afterwards 
 constructed. These mounds are 
 very striking, and the whole ar- 
 rangement is to be compared with 
 
Norfolk. Boiitel. — Castle Acre: Castle and Friory. 273 
 
 the great earthworks attached to the 
 castles at Clare, Castle Rising, and 
 elsewhere in Norfolk and Suffolk. 
 The position of Castle Acre, on the 
 line of a very ancient road, known 
 as the " Peddar's Way,'' must always 
 have been one of great importance. 
 There is a wide view over the country 
 from the great mound, but this dis- 
 trict is comparatively bare, though 
 there are a few fine trees N. 
 
 The large enclosure, or Eoman 
 camp, has long been known as the 
 " Barbican." Bailey - street — the 
 main street of the village — was 
 "under the jurisdiction of the con- 
 stable of the castle, and was the 
 place of residence of the numerous 
 dependents, the armoiu'ers, and 
 other traders, whose business was 
 almost exclusively connected with 
 the castle." — Ilarrod. It w^as pro- 
 tected at its N. and S. ends by gate- 
 ways with round flanking towers, of 
 which that N., rude E. Eng. work, 
 remains. 
 
 The castle remained in the pos- 
 session of the Warrenes until the 
 death of the last of that family in 
 1347. It soon afterwards fell into 
 ruin. The estate is now the proj^erty 
 of Lord Leicester, whose ancestor, 
 8ir Edward Coke, was in the receipt 
 of an immense income, which gave 
 him greater power of buying land 
 tlian is enjoyed even by an eminent 
 railway counsel at the present day. 
 He began to add manor to manor, 
 till at length it is said the Crown 
 was alarmed lest his possessions 
 should be too great for a subject. 
 According to a tradition in the 
 family, in consequence of a repre- 
 sentation from the government, 
 which in those times often interfered 
 with the private concerns of indivi- 
 duals, that he was monopolising 
 injuriously all land wliich came 
 into the market in the county of 
 Norfolk, he asked and obtained leave 
 to purchase "• one acre more," where- 
 upon he became proprietor of the 
 great Castle Acre estate, of itself 
 
 equal to all his former domains. — 
 Lord CamphelVs ' Life of Sir Edward 
 Coke.' (The name appears to repre- 
 sent the A.-S. secer, which, besides its 
 more restricted meaning as a measure 
 of land, signified a sown or cultivated 
 field, and may have been here applied 
 in contrast to the rough surrounding 
 moorland or coppice.) 
 
 The ruins of the Priory stand in 
 much lower ground, W. of the vil- 
 lage, and near the river. (There is a 
 person in the village who professes 
 to have the right of admitting 
 strangers, and of " bringing down 
 cups and saucers." The visitor will 
 hardly escape without a sacrifice to 
 this dragon.) The first Earl War- 
 rene founded a priory for Cluuiac 
 monks within his castle; but the 
 space was found too narrow, and the 
 second Earl removed them to the 
 site now occupied by the ruins. 
 The house continued subject to 
 Lewes Priory until the 47tli Edward 
 III., when it was made independent 
 and "denizen." The arm of St. 
 Philip, which it posses.sed, attracted 
 many pilgrims until the last; al- 
 though Castle Acre could not vie 
 with the great shrine at Walsing- 
 liam. The entrance into the pre- 
 cinct is by a gateway, of flint, with 
 moulded brick dressings, temp. 
 Henry VII., bearing the arms of 
 Warrene, Warrene quarterly, France 
 and England, and those of the 
 priory. Passing this entrance, there 
 is a short descent to the ruins — the 
 most extensive and the most pic- 
 tm'esque monastic remains in Nor- 
 folk. The W. front of the ch., of 
 late Norm, character (it is engraved 
 in Britton and Cotman, and in 
 Bloome's ' History of Castle Acre ') is 
 very fine and striking. It has a 
 sunken, round-headed portal, enriched 
 with many bands of mouldmgs, all 
 sharp and well preserved. Above is 
 a Perp. window, an insertion of the 
 15th centy. ; and on either side the 
 w^all is covered with arcades of 
 round-headed arches. There 
 
 were 
 
 X J 
 
274 
 
 Boute 7. — Castle Acre : Church. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 towers N.W. and S.W. That N. 
 has quite disappeared. A fine arch, 
 with zigzag ornament, opens to 
 the S.W. tower, the upper portion 
 of which is of very late, almost 
 E. Eng., character. The injuries 
 within the ch. have been very- 
 severe. It was used as a quarry, 
 imtil such devastation was stopped 
 by the late Lord Leicester. The 
 piers show masses of flint masonry ; 
 and it is easy to trace the ground 
 plan, which consists of nave, central 
 tower, shallow transept (that S. with 
 an apsidal eastern chapel), and a 
 choir, which was enlarged (the N. 
 aisle), and probably a Lady chapel — 
 added, during the Perp. period. (The 
 visitor should notice the picturesque 
 view looking W. through the main 
 portal.) The cloister was on the 
 S. side of the nave; and on the 
 E. side of the cloister were the 
 chapter - house, and the dormitory 
 (so Ml'. Harrod considers, and no 
 doubt rightly) above a long hall, 
 which was probably the " calefac- 
 tory " or winter " common room " 
 of the monks. The chapter-house 
 (Norm.) shows traces of the arcades 
 with which its walls were covered. 
 The stairs leading to the dormitory 
 remain. (E. of the dormitory were 
 some buildings of Perp. date, ap- 
 parently the infirmary and its 
 chapel.) Beyond the dormitory, S., 
 was the necessarium and its drains. 
 On the S. side of the cloister was the 
 refectory; and W. a range of cel- 
 larage and some apartments, includ- 
 ing a Perp. chapel (now used as a 
 farm granary), which seem to have 
 been occupied by the later priors as 
 their residence. Some foundations of 
 buildings in a line with the N. 
 transept are fixed on by Mr. Harrod 
 as marking the earlier site of the 
 prior's lodgings. There are some 
 picturesque points of view in the 
 cloisters, especially looking W. and 
 S., where largo ash-trees and elder- 
 bushes group well with the ruins. 
 The Paruh CJiurch (dedicated to 
 
 St. James) should also be visited. 
 The nave is chiefly Perp., but has 
 some E. Eng. portions. The chan- 
 cel was originally E. Eng., and had 
 a fine E. window, with good tracery. 
 The tower arch is open to the nave. 
 The aisle windows are Perp. and 
 those on the S. side have somewhat 
 remarkable tracery. The font is 
 Perp., with a lofty, light, and beauti- 
 ful cover, injured by the addition of a 
 dove, which has been made to crown 
 its sheaf of pinnacles. The ch., 
 whitewashed and unrestored, retains 
 its original, but plain, benches and 
 bench-ends. 
 
 (&.) 5 m. S.E. from Swaflfham is 
 Cressingham Manor Hoxise, a 15th- 
 centy. mansion, probably a seat of 
 the Jephsons. Part of it has been 
 rebuilt, but the remains of the ori- 
 ginal house are remarkable for the 
 decorations of moulded brick, or 
 whitish terra cotta, arranged in the 
 form of panels, and very elegant 
 Perp. tracery. It is a fit subject for 
 the artist's pencil. 
 
 The Ch.., 1 m. off", has a good roof.] 
 
 [(c.) About 6 m. S.W. of Swafi"- 
 ham Stat, is Oxhurgh Hall (Sir 
 Eichard Bedingfield, Bart.), built 
 " more castelli " by Sir Edmund 
 Bedingfield in 1482-3, under license 
 from Edward IV., and ever since the 
 seat of that ancient Eoman Catholic 
 family. The Bedingfield family was 
 originally settled at, and named from, 
 Bedingfield, in Sutiblk. In the 14th 
 centy. it divided into two branches : 
 James, 2nd son of Sir Peter Beding- 
 field being ancestor of the Beding- 
 fields of Ditchingham ; his brother 
 Sir Thomas, of the Oxlnu-gh Be- 
 dingfields. Oxburgh came to the 
 family by the marriage of Edmund 
 Bedingfield of Bedingfield to Mar- 
 garet, sister and sole heir of Sir 
 Thomas Tuddenham, in the reign of 
 Hen.V. Their grandson, Sir Edmund, 
 was the builder of Oxburgh. 
 
 The district roimd Oxburgh seems 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Houte 7. — OxbuYijh Kail. 
 
 275 
 
 to have been of some note in the 
 Roman period, and many coins, &c., 
 have been found Jiere. Turketel 
 held it in the time of the Confessor. 
 The Conqueror gave it to Ealph de 
 Limesey; and it afterwards passed 
 through Weylands and Tuddenhams 
 to the Bedingfields. Sir Thomas 
 Tuddenham, whose heiress married 
 Bedingfield, was beheaded on Tower 
 Hill, 1461, on suspicion of having 
 received letters from Margaret, Queen 
 of Henry YI. 
 
 Oxbm-gh Hall is siuTounded by a 
 moat 50 ft. broad, which can be filled 
 with water to a depth of 10 ft. The 
 bridge crossing to the entrance tower 
 is modern. The form of the house 
 was quadrangular — nearly square. 
 The entrance tower, or gatehouse 
 (to which access is gained by the 
 bridge), crenelled and machicolated, 
 is a fine example, and is 80 ft. high, 
 with an octangular turret on either 
 side of the archway. In one of these 
 turrets is a winding stair of brick; 
 in the other are apartments, vaulted 
 and groined, also in brick. A flat 
 Tudor arch sj^rings from tower to 
 tower, so as to form a great machico- 
 lation for the defence of the gateway 
 below. The inner coui't now consists 
 of only 3 sides, since the great bau- 
 queting-room on the S. side was taken 
 down in 1778, and two incongruous 
 wings were added in the rear ; but 
 Gothic windows and picturesque 
 chimneys of moulded brick have 
 much improved these barbarous ad- 
 ditions; and the remainder of the 
 house is tolerably perfect and but 
 little altered. On the N. side are 
 the entrance tower, with porter's 
 lodge (having a vaulted brick roof 
 and loopholes— very curious), and a 
 modernised dining-room. On the 
 W. are the library and saloon, witli 
 ante-room, and on the E. are the 
 offices. 
 
 Over the gateway is the King's 
 Room, the most interesting part of 
 the interior. It is hung with tapes- 
 try temp. Henry VII. ; of which the 
 
 figures are good, but not easily to be 
 explained. It was, says tradition, 
 the sleeping room of Henry yil. 
 when he visited Sir Edmund Beding- 
 field here (perhaps in 1487, when he 
 made a pilgrimage to Walsingham), 
 and gave him sundry Yorkshire 
 estates, forfeited by Lord Level. 
 The tapestry and the bed in this 
 apartment are heirlooms. The cover- 
 let and curtains of the bed are of 
 green velvet, worked in gold thread 
 with all kinds of birds and beasts — 
 the names under, as "a swalloe," 
 " a leparde." They are the work of 
 Queen Mary of Scotland and her 
 "custodian," and at one time friend 
 — the Countess of Shrewsbury, ami 
 bear the initials M.S. and the names 
 "George and Elizabeth Shrews- 
 burye." No doubt the embroidery 
 was made at Sheflield during Mary's 
 detention in the castle there; it is 
 not known how it reached Oxburgh, 
 which Mary never visited. The 
 Countess was the well-known "Bess 
 of Hardewicke," builder of Hard- 
 wicke and of Chatsworth. Queen 
 Elizabeth was at Oxburgh in one of 
 her progresses, and was lodged in 
 the apartment immediately over the 
 King's Room. In a turret project- 
 ing from the E. tower is a hiding- 
 place in the wall, measming about 
 5 ft. square, and entered from a 
 trap-door concealed in the floor of 
 a small arched closet. The door is 
 formed of a wooden frame enclosino- 
 bricks, centred on an iron axle, con- 
 trived to open when pressed upon on 
 one side. This chamber was pro- 
 bably a " priest's hiding-hole." 
 
 During the Commonwealth the 
 Parliament seized on Oxburgh for 
 Sir Henry Bedingfields "treason 
 against the Parliament and people 
 of England." It was sold, but at 
 the Piestoration was repurchased by 
 the surviving representatives of the 
 Bedingfields, and has since con- 
 tinued in that ancient family. 
 
 Within the house, loMch is on no 
 account allowed to he shoicn to stran- 
 
276 BoiUe 7. — Oxburgli Church — Narford Rail. Sect. III. 
 
 gers, there are some curious portraits, 
 und some ancient armour. Among 
 the portraits are Mary Queen of 
 Scots, Henry YII. when 5'oung, and 
 Wm. de la Pole, Duke of Suffolk. 
 Sir Thos. Grcshaiu, by Zucchero ; the 
 Earl and Countess of Arundel, Van- 
 dyck ; Secretary Cromwell, Holbein ; 
 Henry Earl of Surrey and Sir 
 Anthony Denny ; King Edward IV. 
 on panel. In the grounds is a 
 modern Gothic family chapel for the 
 Roman Catholic services. 
 
 The Church is a large and hand- 
 some edifice, surmounted by a tall 
 spire, with a roof panelled and 
 curiously carved. S. of the chancel 
 is the Bedingfield Chapel, founded 
 1513. Between it and the body of 
 the chancel are 2 curious canopied 
 and very ornate monuments, en- 
 tirely of terra cotta or moulded 
 brick, whitewashed, an early ex- 
 ample of the Renaissance, but in 
 a sad state of decay, from neglect. 
 Here are several inscriptions to 
 the Bedingfield family, and their 
 badge, the fetter -lock, is visible. 
 There is a brass eagle in the ch. 
 and an inscription : — " Orate pro 
 anima ThomsB Kij^ping, quondam 
 Rectoris de Narburgh."] 
 
 Returning to the railway, and pass- 
 ing through a chalk country, with 
 Swafiliam Heath and Narborough 
 Field 1. and Narford Field rt., the 
 train reaches 
 
 I85 m. Narherougli Stat., where is 
 a very pretty village. (The " fields " 
 are large and open level spaces, now 
 cultivated, but not long since covered 
 with heath and brushwood.) 
 
 In the Ch. of All Saints are several 
 brasses to the Spelmans— John Spel- 
 man, 1545, Justice of the Common 
 Pleas, and founder of Narborough 
 Hall, close by, in the reign of Henry 
 VIII. ; Henry Spelman, Recorder of 
 Norwich, 1496; and John Spelman, 
 1581. Here is also a brass for John 
 Eyer, 1561, Receiver-General to 
 Queen Elizabeth in Norfolk. 
 
 A1)out 1 m. rt. from Narborough 
 is * Narford Hall, the seat of Andrew 
 Fountaine, Esq., a plain and sub- 
 stantial gentleman's mansion, in a 
 park abounding Avith fine trees. It 
 is remarkable for the collections of 
 paintings, coins, bronzes, INIajolica 
 earthenware, &c., which it contains, 
 f rmed by Sir Andrew Fountaine, 
 Chamberlain to Caroline, Queen of 
 Geo. II., and the friend of Pope, who 
 has mentioned his elegant taste. Sir 
 Andrew Fountaine travelled over 
 most parts of Europe, and made a 
 large and valuable collection of 
 pictures, ancient statues, medals, 
 Raftaelle ware, &c., •' and, while in 
 Italy, acquired such a knowledge of 
 virtii that the dealers in antiquities 
 were not able to impose upon him." 
 At this period he enjoyed the friend- 
 ship of Swift, who repeatedly men- 
 tions him in the 'Journal' to Stella 
 in terms of high regard. Sir Andrew 
 died in 1753. 
 
 " Narford Hall is in fact a com- 
 plete museum of paintings, books, 
 MSS., sculptures, pottery, enamels, 
 gems, ivories, bronzes, and other 
 articles of inappreciable value, and 
 so numerous as to defy description." 
 
 The most important collections 
 here, however (which have been in- 
 creased from time to time by the 
 present proprietor), are the ancient 
 " pottery and ijorcelain,'' the indnres^ 
 and the MSS. in the library. 
 
 The Majolica is quite unequalled in 
 this country, and is surpassed by only 
 one or two collections in the world. 
 "It was principally formed by Sir 
 Andrew Fountaine while resident at 
 Florence in the beginning of the 18th 
 centy. Sir Andrew was known to 
 have been in much favour with 
 Cosimo de' Medici, and family tradi- 
 tion states that many of the finest 
 specimens (especially enamels of 
 I^imoges and Majolica of Nevers) 
 were purchased from the duke, which 
 may account for some pieces in this 
 collection bearing royal escutcheons 
 
Norfolk. Boiite 7. — Narford Hall : Arts Collection. 277 
 
 — they probably having been pre- 
 sented to the grand duke by the 
 .sovereigns of France. 
 
 " The finest specimens of the collec- 
 tion are displayed in a lofty octagonal 
 room lighted from above, which com- 
 municates with the ckawing-room by 
 a door formed of a sheet of plate 
 glass. A fine specimen of Delia 
 Eobbia ware is placed high up, op- 
 posite the door. Ui^on the floor are 
 large vases, and several fine cisterns 
 of Majolica and Palissy ware. Above 
 these are shelves, at the back of which 
 are arranged dishes and plates of 
 Majolica, interspersed with Limoges 
 and Palissy ware, which harmonise 
 atlmirably with each other ; the 
 smaller specimens, such as ewers, 
 jugs, &c., are ranged in front of the 
 dishes. On the right are three re- 
 markable examples of Henri II. 
 ware, viz., a candlestick, biberou, and 
 salt-cellar. The room is painted 
 straw-coloui', which sets off the 
 brilliant tones of the pieces. The 
 effect is very grand and impressive. 
 Besides the contents of this room, 
 valuable specimens are scattered over 
 the different apartments of the house. 
 Of Majolica there are 7 cisterns, 
 several vases of the largest size and 
 finest painting, eleven pilgrims' 
 bottles (two of them of Nevers ware), 
 some of which have the original 
 earthenw'are stoppers, which screw 
 on; and many large dishes. All 
 these specimens are of fine artistic 
 beauty." — Marryatt' s ' Pottery and 
 Porcelain,' pp. 79, 80. Remark espe- 
 cially — 
 
 A circular medallion in alto- 
 relievo, the subject being the Virgin 
 with the Infant Saviour and St. 
 John, 3 ft. in diam., in perfect con- 
 dition ; and an exquisite specimen, 
 probably by Giovanni della Eohbia, 
 one of the four sons of Andrea him- 
 self, the nephew of Luca della Eobbia, 
 "the first in Italy to apply a stanni- 
 ferous or tin enamel upon terra- 
 cotta." 
 
 Some very fine plates by Maestro 
 
 Giorgio; one having in the centre 
 an allegorical subject called the 
 "Stream of Life." from an early 
 Italian print by Eobetta (circ. 1505), 
 and a rich border of oak-kaves ; pur- 
 chased at the Bernal sale by Mr. 
 Fountaine for 142Z. Another has 
 Balaam prophesying; and a third, 
 a very beautiful one, has the date 
 1519, and is almost entirely in ruby 
 and gold lustre. This has a tree or 
 standard in the centre, in the middle 
 of which is a head with wings. (The 
 signature of Maestro Giorgio An- 
 dreoli, whose pieces date from 1519 
 to 1537, is the only attested one to 
 the wares of Gubbio.) 
 
 The Sforza dish, lately added by Mr. 
 Fountaine, This, it is supposed, was 
 painted to commemorate the passing 
 of an edict in 1486 for the protection 
 of the manufacture of Majolica at 
 Pesaro. In the centre are portraits 
 of the youthful Giovanni Sforza, 
 Count of Pesaro, and Camilla da 
 IVIarzana, his father's widow, who 
 granted the edict, which is repre- 
 sented on the dish by a white scroll 
 in the back ground, behind the heads. 
 This dish, from its historical interest, 
 and from the carefulness and beauty 
 of the painting, may be considered 
 as one of the most remarkable sjjeci- 
 mens of Majolica yet known. 
 
 T\\Q pottery of Never s, " the earliest 
 instance of the introduction of the 
 manufacture of Majolica by Italian 
 workmen into a foreign country," may 
 be well studied at Narford. Eemark 
 a pair of bottles, blue ground, with 
 Cupids riding on swans ; a pair of 
 magnificent ewers, 25 in. high, with 
 dragon handles. 
 
 The specimens of Palissy ware here 
 are very numerous, and are not to be 
 equalled by any even in France. 
 Gigantic oval cisterns, an exquisite 
 ewer, a large tablet or plaque repre- 
 senting "water," one of the four 
 elements, of which the other three 
 are not extant, and a blue candle- 
 stick, in the form of a Corinthian 
 column, should be especially noticed ; 
 
278 Boute7.- — Narford Hall : Pictures; Boohs. Sect. III. 
 
 as should the dishes, which are of 
 the highest excellence. One of the 
 perforated dishes is adorned with 
 a border of daisies, probably in 
 allusion to one of the celebrated 
 "Marguoritos " of the time. 
 
 Kemark also 3 specimens of the 
 celebrated "fayence" oi Henri II. of 
 France, a biberon, a salt-cellar, and a 
 candlestick. The place of manufac- 
 ture of this ware is unknown. 
 
 Here are also about 200 pieces of 
 French enamd, executed between 
 1540 and 1580, chiefly at Limoges, 
 by the artists Leonard, Laudin, and 
 Court. 
 
 The Pictures consist chiefly of the 
 Netherlandish school ; but there are 
 others (Italian, French, and English) 
 of much interest. The most im- 
 portant are : — 
 
 Edward IV. and Queen Elizabeth 
 as Princess, assigned to Sir Anthony 
 More, but possibly, according to Dr. 
 Waagen, " one of Holbein's works 
 of his latest time." Philip II. of 
 Spain, Sir A. More. A stable, with 
 the story of the Prodigal Son, Buhens. 
 This picture was long in the posses- 
 sion of tlie descendants of Eubens, 
 and was not brought to England 
 untill823. Portrait (unknown), Van- 
 dyclc. The four elements, and 3 
 peasants in a courtyard, "of singular 
 power," both by Tenters. Four pic- 
 tures, — a sea-piece ; a sea-coast with 
 cloudy sky ; a flat country with 
 sunny fields ; and a very small land- 
 scape, " quite a pearl," by Jacoh 
 Ruysdael. " This great master is 
 liere represented in all his excellence." 
 A large hunting-piece, Fyt. Virgin 
 and Child, Ludovico Carracci. Venus 
 and Cupid, Guido Beni. " This pic- 
 ture is justly called ' the Diamond,' 
 and is of the finest period of the 
 master." — Waagen. Apollo and Diana 
 with Nymplis, N. Poussin. Land- 
 scape, G. Boussin. Two sketches of 
 Julius Cajsar, Julio Bomano, from the 
 collection of Charles I. Meeting of 
 Hen. VIII. and Anne of Cloves, Ma- 
 
 huse. Two fine, rocky landscapes, 
 Salvator Rosa. Marriage of St. 
 Catherine, Carlo Maratti. Portrait 
 of Sir A. Fountaine, Id. A con- 
 versation, Ilofiartli. Landscape, Wil- 
 son. In the library are numerous 
 portraits — Archbp. Tillotson, Earl of 
 Pembroke, Dr. Radclilfe, Dr. Mead, 
 Inigo Jones, Titian, Palladio, Mar- 
 quis of Montrose, Gustavus Adol- 
 phus. Prince Rupert, Sir John May- 
 nard, Admiral Blake, C. Jansen (by 
 himself), Samuel Butler, and Charles 
 Cotton. Here is also a Descent from 
 the Cross, by Schoreel. 
 
 Among the MSS. and Books are — 
 a prayer-book Avith illuminations by 
 Giulio Clovio, executed for Eleanora 
 Gonzaga, Duchess of Urbino (the 
 decorations and miniatures are of 
 the highest beauty and excellence) ; 
 a part of the Vulgate, written for 
 Pliilip le Bel in 1403 ; a Psalter of 
 the same period ; many breviaries ; 
 and a printed prayer-book with auto- 
 graph signature and remarks of 
 Henry VIII. 
 
 The house is not shown without an 
 exjyress order from the inoprietor. 
 
 From Narborough the line reaches 
 the station at 
 
 21 f m. East Winch. The tower of 
 the ch. is seen 1. East Winch was the 
 cradle of the family of Howard, Dukes 
 of Norfolk. Sir Wm. Howard, Judge 
 temp. Edw. L, was seated here in a 
 small house called " the Nunnery." 
 
 23_f ra. Middleton Stat. 
 
 1. is a lofty Gate-tower, the sole re- 
 mains of a hunting castle belonging to 
 the Lords Scales and the Widvilles. 
 It appears to have led into a moated 
 quadrangle. The situation is low and 
 swampy. The tower has been added 
 to; and Middleton is now the resi- 
 dence of — Jarvis, Esq. 
 
 The Ely and Wisbeach Rly. soon 
 falls in 1. ; St. John's Cb. and the 
 Red Mount Chapel are seen, also 1. ; 
 and the train soon reaches 
 
NOEFOLK. 
 
 Boute 7. — King's Lynn : Trade. 
 
 279 
 
 26f m. Lynn Stat., commonly 
 called King's Lynn; the town of 
 third importance in Norfolk ; Nor- 
 ■\vich and Yarmouth alone exceeding 
 it in extent and population. The 
 Pop. of Lynn in 1861 was 16,801. 
 (^Inns : Crown ; Globe ; Duke's Head ; 
 none very good.) 
 
 Lynn, anciently called Ljran Epis- 
 copi,fi'om the feudal allegiance which 
 it owed to the Bishop of Norwich, 
 became " Lynn Eegis," King's Lynn, 
 after the changes in the episcopal 
 property and revenues in the days of 
 Henry VIII. (The subui'bs or ham- 
 lets of S.W. and N. Lynn adjoin the 
 town.) Lynn stands near the mouth 
 of the Great Ouse ; which brings to 
 the sea the di'ainage of great part 
 of the fen country. The town is 
 about 4 m. from the outfall of the 
 river, and 10 m. from the open sea, 
 called Lynn Deeps ; the intervening 
 space or '' wash " being occupied by 
 vast sand and mud banks, and formerly 
 navigable only through intricate 
 channels. But these evils have been 
 corrected by the construction of a 
 new and direct channel, 4 m, long, 
 begun in 1850, partly dug and partly 
 formed by throwing out grojnaes into 
 the channel to scoiu* the river bed 
 from the silt which deposits itself. 
 A large tract of ground has thus been 
 gained on the rt. bank of the Ouse, 
 on the side of the town. 
 
 In spite of the difficulties of navi- 
 gation, Lynn, from the great facilities 
 which it afforded for inland com- 
 munication, was from an early period 
 a place of considerable trading im- 
 portance. It was connected with the 
 Hansetowns of the Baltic; and, 
 until England became crossed by its 
 network of railways, great part of 
 the eastern counties was supplied 
 with timber, coals, wine, and other 
 matters through the port of Lynn. 
 But nearly all this commerce ceased 
 with the introduction of railways, 
 and notwithstanding the new channel 
 and a new dock which has lately 
 been constructed, at a cost of 80,OOOL 
 
 (it was opened July 7, 1809, by the 
 Prince of Wales), it seems very im- 
 probable that Lynn will recover any 
 portion of its former prosperity. (The 
 area of the new dock is 6f acres, and 
 vessels of from 1200 to 1500 tons can 
 obtain access at any high tide. The 
 excavation went throvigh alluvial 
 deposit to the Kimmeridge clay, and 
 a great quantity of animal remains 
 were found, including skulls of wild 
 boar, wolf, elk, beaver, and marsh pig. 
 The position of Lynn, between the 
 "hardware" districts and Holland, 
 and between Holland and the oil- 
 cake-consuming districts of Norfolk 
 and Suffolk, is what the inhabitants 
 rely on for bringing back an active 
 trade to Lynn.) Of the ancient 
 prosperity and importance of the 
 place there are many traces. Ee- 
 mains of the town walls and gates; 
 two fine chm-ches; portions of 
 monastic and other buildings ; a 
 quaint town-hall, and a custom- 
 house " that might have been im- 
 ported bodily from Flanders," all 
 indicate the days when ships from 
 Flanders, and from the Hansetowns 
 of the Baltic, found their way to 
 Lynn, and when the town frequently 
 served as a resting-jDlace to Englislv 
 sovereigns on their way to or from 
 the North. Many charters and 
 privileges were granted to Lynn. 
 The earliest was given by King 
 John, in 1216, just before he crossed 
 the Washes, where he lost all' his 
 baggage, and nearly his life. *A 
 silver-gilt cup, and su-ord, said to have 
 been his gift to the town, are still 
 carefully preserved in the custody of 
 the mayor for the time being. The 
 cup itself, in elegance of shape, might 
 have come from the hand of Cellini. 
 The figures in enamel of men and 
 women hunting and hawking are 
 extremely curious. Jud<2;ing, how- 
 ever, from the costume and workman- 
 ship, this cup cannot be older tiian 
 the time of Edward III.— the period 
 of the greatest prosperity and im- 
 portance of Lynn. The sw^ord also 
 
280 
 
 Boute 7. — King^s Lynn : Churches. Sect. III. 
 
 althougli an inscription on one side 
 of the liilt records that John took 
 it from his side, and gave it to the 
 town, is really no older than the 
 16th centy. Both articles seem to 
 be substitutes for the original dona- 
 tions. The charters are preserved 
 among the corporation records, and 
 range from the Gth of John to the 
 11th of George II. Here also is the 
 ' lied Book of Lynn,' containing 150 
 leaves, with entries of wills, &c. ; the 
 earliest in date being 1309. This is 
 said to be the most ancient paper 
 hooh in existence. The use of linen 
 and cotton for paper is of course far 
 more ancient (see ifaZZcMii's 'Lit. Hist.,' 
 part i. chap. i.). 
 
 [^ tmlk through Ltjnn. Take the 
 omnibus from the station to the Tues- 
 day Market Place. Walk up Black 
 Goose-street to St. Nicholas' Chapel 
 and back; by Queen-street to the 
 Guildhall and St. Margarefs Cli. ; 
 observing, as you pass, many quaintly 
 moulded doorways. Thence passing 
 by Grey Friar's Steeple, traverse the 
 Mall to the Red INIount Chapel. If 
 you have time to spare, look at the 
 South Gate.] 
 
 Excepting the approach from the 
 S. and the High-street, which has 
 some good shops, the town is com- 
 posed of narrow and dirty streets 
 meeting in one large market-place : 
 it is crossed by 4 creeks running up 
 from the river, called here, as in the 
 towns of Holland, /ee^s. The first 
 obiects of interest are the churches 
 of St. Margaret and St. Nicholas. 
 
 *>S'^. Margaret's, the principal Ch., 
 is said to have been built by Herbert 
 Losinga, the bishop (1091-1119) who 
 removed the place of the East Anglian 
 see from Thetford to Norwich, Por- 
 tions of the W. front and N, tower 
 may possibly be of his time. The 
 nave was destroyed in 17-41, when 
 the spire was blown over on it. It 
 was rebuilt in 1742. The chancel is 
 Early Dec, with Perp, additions. 
 
 A screen with the dates 1584 and 
 1622, and the words " Henricus 
 rosas," " Regna Jacobus," on either 
 side of " Beati pacifici," divides the 
 nave from the chancel. This is of 
 5 bays. The Early Dec. piers are 
 formed by groups of 4 shafts witli 
 foliated capitals. There are small 
 heads and grotesques at the inter- 
 sections of the arches, and in the 
 spandrels above small openings from 
 which project heads and figures. 
 The clerestory is Perp,, as is the 
 E, window, which deserves special 
 attention. It is circular, with smaller 
 circles below it. The modern glass 
 in it is by Ball and Hughes. There 
 is some fine stall work, temp, Ed- 
 ward III., with (on one of the sub- 
 sellia) a head of the Black Prince 
 and his device of the feathers. Pro- 
 tected within the altar rails, and 
 covered by the carpet (easily lifted) 
 are 2 of the largest and finest monu- 
 mental "^brasses known, measuring 10 
 ft. by 5, One of them commemorates 
 a mayor of Lynn (1364), Robert 
 Braunche, and his 2 wives ; the 
 figures of the 3 being represented 
 upon it in the costume of the time, 
 with rich canopies over their heads, 
 souls above, and 8 weepers in male 
 and female costume at the sides. 
 Each lady has at her feet a little 
 dog with a collar of bells. At the 
 mayor's feet is an eagle attacking a 
 "salvage man," who roars. Below 
 the figures is a representation of a 
 '• Peacock Feast," elaborately en- 
 graved, and intended, it is supposed, 
 to portray an entertainment given in 
 this mayor's time to Edward III. 
 The monarch is represented at table 
 with his nobles ; a band of minstrels 
 is performing for their gratification, 
 while on both sides females enter, 
 bearing the peacock dressed and 
 trussed ; a knight is stretching for- 
 ward on one side to receive the dish, 
 in his haste straddling with one 
 leg across the table. The king has 
 before him a cup very like that 
 called King John^, An inscription 
 
Norfolk. Boute 7. — King's Lynn : Churches ; Guildhall. 281 
 
 runs round, but is a good deal worn. 
 The other large brass bears the en- 
 graved portraits of Adam de Wal- 
 soken, a rich merchant, and his wife, 
 1349, an interesting example of cos- 
 tume. Tlie 12 Apostles and atten- 
 dant Prophets are at the sides, and 
 below is a rustic scene, apparently 
 representmg the "gathering in" of 
 apples on a monastic farm. This 
 brass is much worn, and was re- 
 moved from the nave some years 
 since. Both these brasses were no 
 doubt executed in Flanders. The 
 quadrangular shape of the plates, 
 the diapered backgrounds, and the 
 scrollwork enrichment, are charac- 
 teristics of Flemish work. The en- 
 graving also diflers from that of 
 English brasses. " The principal 
 lines are broader and more boldly 
 drawn, though less deeply cut, and 
 wrought with a flat, chisel-shaped 
 tool, instead of the ordinary engrav- 
 ing burin." — Haines ' Manual of 
 Monumental Brasses,' p. 20. 
 
 The choir aisles have been walled 
 off from the actual choir. In the S. 
 aisle is deposited a library, contain- 
 ing some good books, chiefly theolo- 
 gical. 
 
 In the W. front, the S.W. tower is 
 (on the exterior) E. Eng. as high as 
 the uppermost story, which is Dec. 
 The buttresses are formed by groups 
 of shafts, with niches above them. 
 Within, this tower shows some fine 
 Trans. Norm. work. A circ. arch, 
 now closed, opened to the aisle of the 
 nave ; and above is an arcade with 
 a pointed central arch, and a round 
 arch on either side. The N.W. 
 tower has a Norm, base, but is Perp. 
 above. This fine ch. stands much 
 in need, of a true restoration. There 
 has been some question of rebuilding 
 the nave from designs by Mr. G. G. 
 Scott. 
 
 Dr. Bumey was organist of St. 
 Margaret's for 9 years. Here he 
 wrote his * History of Music,' and 
 here was born his daughter Fanny, 
 authoress of ' Evelina,' 
 
 Close to St. Margaret's Ch. is tlie 
 *GiiildhalL a Gothic building of the 
 time of Elizabeth, quaint and pic- 
 turesque ; remarkable for its front 
 of black flint and white stone, 
 chequered in alternate squares, like 
 a chess-board. Within is one lofty 
 chamber resting on vaults used for 
 the police-oftice and " lock-up." 
 There are here, in the assembly 
 room, portraits of William III. and 
 Mary, Sir Eobert Waljjole, and some 
 others. Sir Robert Walpole sat in 
 Parliament for Lynn, as did his son 
 Horace, who on his election in 1761 
 wrote thus to Montague : — " Think 
 of me, the subject of a mob, who was 
 scarce ever before in a mob, addi'ess- 
 ing them in the Town-hall " (the 
 Guildhall) " riding at the head of 
 two thousand people through such a 
 town as Lynn, dining with above 
 two hundred of them amid bumpers, 
 huzzas, songs, and tobacco, and 
 finishing with country dancing at a 
 ball and sixpenny whisk. I have 
 borne it all cheerfully; nay, have 
 sat hours in conversation, the thing 
 upon earth that I hate ; have been 
 to hear misses play upon the harpsi- 
 chord, and to see an alderman's 
 copies of Rubens and Carlo Marat. 
 Yet, to do the folks justice, they are 
 sensible, and reasonable, and civi- 
 lised ; then- very language is polished 
 since I lived among them." 
 
 St, Nicholas, the second ch. in 
 Lynn, is a chapel dependent on St, 
 Margaret's, erected (on the site of 
 an earlier building, of which some 
 portions were retained) toward the 
 end of the 14thcenty. This cli. was 
 restored in 1851-53. The interior is 
 of 3 aisles, with a light and lofty 
 PerjD. arcade and clerestory above. 
 The tracery of the aisle windows and 
 of the clerestory is very rich and 
 peculiar. The large and good E. 
 window is filled with stained glass 
 by Ward and Hughes. The open 
 roof (the same throughout, there is 
 no chancel arch) is somewhat flattci* 
 
282 Bonis 8. — King's Lynn : School ; Eugene Aram. Sect. III. 
 
 tlian usual, but has a good effect. 
 In the vestiy is preserved a doo'-, 
 possibly part of a confessional (?), 
 with the inscription, '• Aperi michi 
 portas justicie, coufitebor Domino," 
 and 2 iigures, one kneeling, the other, 
 wearing a pall and a crown (not a 
 mitre), holds in one hand a golden 
 key, and raises the other in benedic- 
 tion. Tl)ere is also a curious tablet 
 (date 1600) with inscriptions, figures 
 of various poor, and persons relieving 
 them. The verses run : — 
 
 " A good steward is liberal and giveth to the 
 
 poore ; 
 The -wicked one as owner keepeth still his 
 
 store ; 
 Distrusting God's providence hath made his 
 
 heart hard ; 
 He doth not part from a penny in hope of 
 
 rewarde." 
 
 A new and very beautiful altar frontal 
 deserves special notice. There is an 
 absurd sarcophagus for Sir Benjamin 
 Keene, once mayor of Lynn, K.B., 
 and ambassador to Spain (d. 1757) ; 
 and near the W. end a slab in the 
 pavement records Thomas Holling- 
 worth (d. 1789), an eminent book- 
 seller, " a man of strictest integrity 
 in his dealings, and much esteemed 
 by gentlemen of taste for the neat- 
 ness and elegance of his binding." 
 The rich W. door under a Perp. 
 window should be noticed, as well 
 as the S. porch, elaborately deco- 
 rated and richly groined, with heads 
 at the angles of the groining. In 
 the centre is the Pope (? it may 
 possil)ly be intended to represent 
 the First Person of the Holy Trinity). 
 At the end of the S. aisle is a 
 low E. Eng. tower (proving the 
 existence here of an earlier ch.), 
 which has been capped by an oaken 
 spire, covered with lead, from a 
 design by Mr. G. G. Scott. 
 
 The Grey Friars Steeple is the 
 sole remaining fragment of the ch. 
 of the Franciscan convent. It con- 
 sists of a lantern tower 90 ft. high, 
 supi^orted on an open arch of red 
 brick, and is of Perp. date. A nar- 
 
 row corkscrew stair runs up one 
 side. 
 
 Nearly opposite this is the Gram- 
 mar School, a modern building, occu- 
 pying the place of that in which 
 Eugene Aram taught as usher when 
 driven from Knaresborough. He 
 was dragged hence, 1759, to receive 
 the merited punishment of a crime 
 committed 14 years before — 
 
 " Two stern-faced men set out from Lj'nne, 
 Through the cold and heavy mist ; 
 And Eugene Aram walked between 
 With gyves upon his wrist." 
 
 Huod's ' Dream of E. Aram . 
 
 Near the Kailway Terminus, ot 
 the side of the workhouse (once the 
 chapel of St. James's), begins the 
 Public Walk or Mall, an avenue of 
 trees running for some way parallel 
 with the old toivn loalls, part of 
 which remain. The arch at the end 
 of the avenue is modern. TJie 
 avenue itself, chiefly of elm, with 
 the public grounds about it, aifords 
 as agreeable and shady walks as are 
 to be found in any English town, 
 and almost equals those of Oxford and 
 Cambridge. The walk leads up to 
 *The Chapel of the Bed 3Iount, a 
 small stone building, 3 stories high, 
 built in the form of a cross, but en- 
 cased within an octagonal shell of 
 corroded red brick. (The keeper of 
 the chapel is in attendance during 
 the greater part of the day.) The 
 chapel on the upper floor, measuring- 
 only 17 ft. 7 in. by 14 ft., and 13 ft. 
 high, is a very beautiful specimen of 
 rich Perp. ornament, the roof and 
 sides covered with tracery and 
 panelling of the most florid charac- 
 ter, now sadly mutilated ; indeed 
 the entire building was fast falling to 
 complete decay, when it was rescued 
 in 1823 solely by the taste and 
 liberalit}'' of some gentlemen in tlie 
 neighbourhood. All the ornamental 
 details which remain deserve atten- 
 tion. This chapel seems to have 
 been a station for pilgrims bound 
 to Our Lady's Shrine at Walsing- 
 
Norfolk. Boute 7. — King's Lynn : Chapel of the Bed Mount. 283 
 
 ham (Rte. 8), and probably con- 
 tained a figure of the Virgin, or some 
 relic of consequence. The influx of 
 a crowd of devotees to so small a 
 building rendered it necessary to ob- 
 tain a ready ingress and egress to 
 prevent confusion. This was effected 
 by means of a double staircase formed 
 within the casing of brick. By one 
 stair the pilgrims ascended, and, hav- 
 ing kissed the relic or statue, were 
 dismissed as quickly as possible down 
 the other staircase thi'ough a different 
 door. (The relic of the "Saint 
 Sang '* at Bruges is thus exhibited 
 in its celebrated chapel.) The 
 square openings, filled with tracery, 
 in the chapel walls permitted the 
 crowd in the passage to witness the 
 celebration of the mass, when there 
 was not room for them in the chapel 
 itself. The only use of the outer shell 
 was to contain the staircase. The 
 middle story seems to have been the 
 cell of the priest who took charge of 
 the chapel. A similar chapel, dedi- 
 cated to St. Herbert, exists at Am- 
 boise, but this at Lynn is unique in 
 England. Entries in the corpora- 
 tion records determine its date to be 
 1484-5. License was then granted 
 to one Eobert Curraunce to build a 
 chapel on the mount called the 
 " Ladye Hill." The same records 
 show that the chapel was much fre- 
 quented, and that oflerings were 
 numerous. The brethren of the 
 guild of SS. Fabian and Sebas- 
 tian, with their 4 minstrels, were 
 bound to repair to this chapel, Jan. 
 23, and at matins to sing "an 
 anteme to our Ladye." During 
 the great . rebellion, in 1638, it was 
 converted into a powder magazine, 
 and in 1665, during the plague, into 
 a pest-house. It is asserted that 
 Edward IV. was lodged in tliis 
 chapel in 1469, after the defeat, by 
 Warwick, which drove him to Lynn 
 to embark for the Continent. 
 
 Near the chapel are considerable 
 remains of the toirn 2vall, which with- 
 stood for 19 days in 1643 the besieg- 
 
 ing forces of the Parliament, under 
 the Earl of Manchester. On the 
 surrender a sum of dOOOl. was levied 
 on the inhabitants. The South Gate, 
 facing the Esk rivulet, is the only 
 ancient entrance to the town now 
 remaining; date circa 1437. The 
 road to Ely and to Holbeach runs 
 through this gate, crossing the Eau 
 Brink Cut within a mile of it. 
 
 The Museum, containing some 
 birds, &c., is open from 12 to 4. 
 
 In Queen-street remains the richly 
 carved door of a college for priests, 
 founded by Thomas Thorisby, mayor 
 in 1502. The college itself has been 
 converted into dwelling-houses. 
 
 In King-street is the custom- 
 house, and a builchng marked by a 
 high gable, the hall of St. George's 
 Guild, founded temp. Henry IV. 
 Some remains of the building will be 
 found in an adjoining passage, called 
 the " Shakespeare Yard." The large 
 Tuesday Market Flace, grass-grown 
 and deserted, is reached from King- 
 street. 
 
 Near the station is the new Ch. of 
 *S'^. John ; Salvin, architect. 
 
 The first jDrinted English and 
 Latin dictionary was compiled at 
 Lynn by a Dominican friar, Gal- 
 fridus " Grammaticus." Other local 
 worthies were : Niclwlas of Lynn, a 
 Carmelite or Franciscan (which is 
 uncertain), who in 1330 sailed "to 
 the most northern islands in the 
 world" — the earliest Polar expedi- 
 tion on record. At the Pole itself he 
 is said to have discovered " four in- 
 draughts of the ocean, from the four 
 opposite quarters of the world." 
 (Bale is apparently the sole autho- 
 rity for the adventm-es of Friar 
 Nicholas). And Alan of Lynn, a Car- 
 melite, and a laborious compiler of 
 indexes to sundry of the Fathers 
 and later schoolmen. 
 
 (The fine Churches of the Marshland 
 — Terrington, Tilney, and Walpole — 
 may be visited in a day's excursion 
 from Lynu. For them, see Bte. 10. 
 
284 
 
 Boiite 7 . -—Hoiigliton : Picture Gallery. Sect. III. 
 
 Castle Rising is 2 m. from the 
 Wootton Stat, on the rly. to Hun- 
 stanton ; and a day may be spent 
 there very agreeably. Hunstanton 
 itself is 5 lir. distant from Lynn by 
 rly. For it and for Castle iUising, 
 see Ete. 9.) 
 
 Houghton (Marquess of Cholmon- 
 deley, who inherits it from the Wal- 
 poles) is 13 m. from Lynn, and may 
 be best visited thence. No rly. 
 passes near it. The house, a stately, 
 heavy edifice of stone, regarded as 
 the most magnificent in Norfolk, was 
 raised by Sir K. Walpole, between 
 1722 and 17o8, from the designs of 
 Colin Campbell, the compiler of 
 'Vitruvius Britannicus,' and im- 
 proved under the direction of the 
 minister's protege, Eipley, satirised 
 by Pope : — 
 
 " Heaven visits with a taste the wealthy fool, 
 
 And needs no rod but Kipley with a rule." 
 
 Moral Essays, Ep. iv. 
 
 The main building is a square, 
 with Grecian colonnades in the 
 centre of the fronts, the corners sur- 
 mounted by domes. In the hall, 
 a cube of 40 ft., a noble apartment, 
 is a fine bronze cast of the Laocoon 
 by Girardon, and some sculpture by 
 Myshracli. In the library is a whole- 
 length of George I. (the only jjicture 
 for which he sat in England), by 
 Kneller and in the dining-parlour 
 are fine carvings by Gllibons. In the 
 dressing-room attached to the " Velvet 
 State-room," is some remarkable 
 tapestry, executed at Mortlake, with 
 Avhole-lengths of James I., Charles 
 I., and their Queens, and portraits of 
 their children in the margin. Some 
 interesting portraits of the "Wali^ole 
 family will repay examination, and 
 the substantial doors and architec- 
 ture merit attention. The celebrated 
 Houghton Gallery of paintings — one 
 of the finest private collections in 
 England — was sold to the loss and 
 shame of the country, in 1779, by 
 George, third Earl 'of Orford (d. 
 
 1791), nephew of Horace, to Cathe- 
 rhie of Russia for 40,550/!., and is 
 now at St. Petersburg. Sir Robert's 
 entire collection is said by Horace 
 Walpole to have cost his father 
 40,000Z., so that the Orford family, 
 as Catherine only acquired a portion 
 of the collection, were considerable 
 gainers by the sale. " When he 
 sold the collection of pictures at 
 Houghton, he declared at St. James's 
 that he was forced to it, to pay the 
 fortunes of his uncles — which 
 amounted but to 10,000Z.; and he 
 sold the pictures for 40,000Z. griev- 
 ously to our discontent, and without 
 any application from us for our 
 money, which he now retains, trust- 
 ing that we will not joress him, lest 
 he should disinherit us, were we to 
 outlive him. But we are not so silly 
 as to have any such expectations at 
 our ages; nor, as he has sold the 
 pictures, which we wished to have 
 preserved in the family, do we care 
 what he does with the estate. Would 
 you believe — yes, for he is a madman 
 — that he is refurnishing Houghton ; 
 ay, and with pictures too, and 
 by Cipriani. That flimsy scene 
 painter is to reijlace Guide, Claude 
 Lorraine, Rubens, Vandyke, &c." — 
 Walpole to Mann, Sept. 8, 1782. 
 During Sir Robert's ministry, 
 Houghton was visited yearly by a 
 " congress " of the great officers of 
 state and foreign ministers ; he also 
 entertained here Francis, Duke of 
 Lorraine, afterwards Emperor of Ger- 
 many. The meetings were famous 
 for their convivial character. The 
 park is extensive, but rather flat ; 
 it contains some fine old beeches. 
 More than 1000 cedars were blown 
 down here in February, 1860. 
 
 " I saw Houghton," writes Lady 
 Hervey in 1765, " which is the most 
 triste, melancholy, fine place I ever 
 beheld. 'Tis a heavy, ngly, black 
 building with an ugly black stone. 
 The hall, saloon, and a gallery very 
 fine; the rest not in the least so." 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Route 8. — East JDerehixm to Wetls. 
 
 285 
 
 Sir EolDert w<as especially fond of 
 Houghton, which had been the pro- 
 perty of tlie Walpolc family from 
 tliG reign of Hen. I, " My flatterers 
 liere," he writes in 1743, " are all 
 mutes. The oaks, the beeches, the 
 chestnuts, seem to contend which 
 shall best please the Lord of the 
 Manor. They cannot deceive. They 
 will not lie." His garden was laid 
 out in the stiff, formal style by Eyre, 
 an imitator of Bridgman, and con- 
 tained 23 acres — then reckoned a 
 considerable portion. " There is an 
 old walk in the j^ark at Houghton 
 called 'Sir Jeflfery's Walk,' where 
 the old gentleman used to teach my 
 father (Sir Robert) his book. These 
 very old trees encouraged my father 
 to plant at Houghton. When people 
 used to try to persuade him nothing 
 would grow there, he said, ' Why will 
 not other trees grow as well as those 
 in Sir Jeflery's Walk?' — other trees 
 have grown there to some purpose." — 
 Horace Walpole to Cole, June 5, 
 1775. 
 
 The Ch. was rebuilt by Sir Eobert 
 Walpole. In it is a monument of an 
 ecclesiastic of the time of P^dward I. 
 with a carved effigy. Sir R. Walpole 
 was born at Houghton in 1676. He 
 and Horace Walpole are buried in the 
 ciiurch, which contains a statue of 
 Sir R. Walpole. 
 
 ROUTE 8. 
 
 EAST DEREHAM TO WELLS BY 
 FAKENHAM AND WALSINGHAM. 
 
 Brancli line. It ascends tlie valley, 
 first of a tributary of the Wensum, 
 and then of the Wensum itself, as 
 high as Fakenham. 
 
 There is nothing which calls for 
 special notice between Dereham and 
 
 4 J m. North Elmham Stat. N. 
 Elmham is the village of a parish of 
 1251 inhab., on the 1. bank of the 
 Wensum. About the year 671, the 
 diocese of East Anglia, which up to 
 that time had embraced the whole of 
 Norfolk and Suffolk, was divided 
 by Archbp. Theodore. Dunwich, the 
 place of the original see, founded by 
 Bp. Felix in 630, continued to be the 
 seat of the Suffolk bishopric (see 
 Suffolk, Rte. 5), and the place of 
 the new see was fixed at Elmham. 
 Both sees were duly filled until the 
 year 870, when the great Danish 
 invasion of East Anglia occurred; 
 from this time until about 956 there 
 was no bishop at either j^lace. 
 
 The see of Dunwich was never filled 
 again. That of Elmham was occupied 
 in regular succession, from 956 to 
 about 1075, when Herfast, the first 
 Norman bp., in obedience to a decree 
 of the Council of London, ordering 
 bishops' sees to be transferred from 
 small to^vns (villul^e) to more im- 
 portant ones, removed it to Thetford 
 (see Rte. 12) : whence m 1094 it was 
 transferred by Herbert Losinga to 
 Norwich. Elmham has usually been 
 identifiedwith North Elmham in Nor- 
 folk; but Mr. Harrod (' SufF. Arch.' 
 vol. iv.) has given some reasons for 
 hesitation, and is himself inclined 
 to fix the place of the " bishop-stool " 
 at South Elmham, in Sutiblk. For a 
 further notice, see Suffolk, Rte. 9. It 
 must certainly be remembered that 
 Archbp. Theodore's object in forming 
 
286 Boufe S.-^-North Elmlimii^Tittleshall—Byhurgl. Sect. Hi. 
 
 tlio double sec was to provide for the 
 efficient pastoral care of the two 
 divisions of East Anglia ; and this 
 ■would be more effectually done by 
 fixing the see at N. than at S. 
 Elmham. 
 
 Elmham seems to have been a 
 place of some importance before the 
 episcopal see was fixed there (if it 
 ever were), or at any rate before the 
 bishops built their palace here. The 
 mound on which stood the bishop's 
 palace and the fosse round it may be 
 seen, with fragments of walls, no 
 doubt of very early character, N. of 
 the village. The ' palace,' or manor 
 house was built in the corner of a 
 Roman camp. Old ParJc, which 
 belonged to it, is still preserved as 
 a deer park by Lord Leicester. The 
 Church, surmoimted by a tall spire, 
 is handsome, and has portions of 
 painted glass. There are also monu- 
 ments to Richard Warner, who built 
 the Hall, 1757, and R. Milles. 
 
 1. to the W. is Elmham Hall (Lord 
 Sondes) and park. 
 
 [At Mileham (5 m. W. of Elm- 
 ham, 7 m. N.W. of E. Dereham), 
 Sir Edward Colce, afterwards the 
 famous Lord Chief Justice, was born, 
 1552, in the Hall, long since pulled 
 down. 
 
 In the * Ch. of Tittleshall, 2 m. 
 N.W. of Mileham, Chief Justice Coke 
 is buried (he died Sej^t. 3, 1634, 
 aged 86, at Stoke Pogis, in Bucking- 
 hamshire), under a monument which 
 bears his effigy, and which cost 400Z. 
 It lias a long Latin inscription. His 
 father, Robert Coke, belonged to a 
 family then ancient in Norfolk ; and 
 from the Cliief Justice are descended 
 the Cokes of Holkham, Earls of 
 Leicester, some of whom are interred 
 here, including " Coke of Norfolk,"' 
 Lord Leicester, and his 1st wife, to 
 whom there is a superb monument 
 by Nollekens. The Hall, now a farm- 
 house, was built by Sir Edward 
 Coke, and he seems to have retired 
 to this place after his disgrace in 
 
 1616, when Bacon wrote to him an 
 " admonitory " letter. '\ . . Your too 
 much love of the world is too much 
 seen when, having the living of 
 10,000Z., you relieve few or none. 
 The hand that hath taken so much, 
 can it give so little ? . . . We desire 
 you to amend this, and let your poor 
 tenants in Norfolk find some comfort, 
 where nothing of your estate is spent 
 towards their relief, but all brought 
 up hither to the impoverishing your 
 country." Sir Edward was con- 
 fessedly the greatest master of 
 English law that had hitherto ap- 
 peared, but he was proud and over- 
 bearing to the last degree, and the 
 brutal fury of his language when as 
 Attorney-General he conducted the 
 trial of Sir Walter Raleigh made 
 him odious to the nation. Yet he 
 knew so well how to make the best 
 of a disgrace that James I. used to 
 compare him to a cat, which always 
 falls upon its feet. Coke's ' Reports ' 
 and his ' Institutes' (the first part of 
 which contains the famous ' Coke 
 upon Littleton') have kept alive 
 his great legal reputation, which, as 
 well as the part played by him in 
 the history of his time, gives its 
 especial interest to the tomb and 
 stately monument at Tittleshall.] 
 
 7 m. Ryhurgh Stat. The Ch. of St. 
 Andrew, Great Ryburgh, Perp., with 
 nave choir, and S. and N. transepts, 
 all of equal length, has a western 
 tower, which is not impossil^ly Saxon. 
 The entire ch. has (1860) been well 
 and judiciously restored. 1 m. rt. is 
 FouUham, a village rebuilt after a 
 fire in 1770. The large Ch., chiefly 
 Peri?., but with some Dec. portions, 
 has a tower 90 ft. high, and contains 
 a monument to Sir Thomas Hunt, 
 with the effigies of his three wives 
 kneeling behind him. Here also is 
 the tomb of " Robert CoUes, Cecili 
 his Avif ; " the letters of this inscrip- 
 tion are placed round the side of 
 a plain altar-tomb ; each letter is 
 crowned, and in compartments ; 
 
Norfolk. Itoide 8. — Snoring — FalcenJiam — JRmnham Hall 287 
 
 below' are quatrefoils, containing 
 lozenges. 
 
 Here is a brass to Sir E. Shelton 
 and wife, 1424. The knight's figure 
 hus entirely disappeared, except the 
 head. 
 
 [rt. 4 m. N. of Ryburgh Stat, is 
 Little Snoring. (Kemble refers the 
 name to a settlement of the Snoringas. 
 It does not occur elsewhere in Eng- 
 land, but there is a Snoreham in 
 Essex.) The Ch. (St. Andrew) has a 
 detached round tower, a Transition 
 Norm, chancel, and in the nave a 
 Dec. W. window, two small Norm, 
 windows, and two Norm, doorways. 
 In tlie S. wall is some long and short 
 work. The S. door of the nave dis- 
 plays a curious mixture of the Norm, 
 and E. Eng. styles, having a pointed 
 arch with zigzag mouldings, above a 
 round-headed and within a stilted 
 horseshoe arch. The font is late 
 Norm., richly carved. At Great 
 Snoring, 2J m., the Parsonage House, 
 built by the Sheltons, in the reign 
 of Henry VIIL, is a good specimen 
 of ancient domestic architecture in 
 moulded brick. It has some fine 
 bands of ornamental work of rather 
 an Italian caste, and some good 
 panelled turrets. The door is curious 
 and original. The Ch. has a good 
 E. Perp. tower, and a nave, contain- 
 ing portions of E. Eng., Dec, and 
 Perji. date. The chancel has a good 
 but mutilated Dec. E. window.] 
 
 9J m., Fdkenliam Stat. (Pop. of par. 
 2456), on the Wensum, and chiefly 
 known for its corn-market. (Inns: 
 Crown ; Eed Lion.) The court of the 
 sherift' for the whole county (shire- 
 reeve) was formerly held on a hill 
 in this neighbourhood. The Church 
 is a large edifice, with a lofty tower, 
 nave, aisles, chancel, and S. porch. 
 The tower dates from the reign of 
 Henry VI., and has a crowned 
 Initial, with the royal arms, and 
 those of Archbishop Chichele, a bene- 
 factor, over the fine Perp. W. door ; 
 
 within is a rich and elegant screen 
 in carved wood. The chancel is 
 late Dec, with a fine E. window, 
 3 sedilia, and a piscina. Upon the 
 octagonal font are the symbols of the 
 Evangelists. In the chancel is a 
 hrass for Henry Keys, rector, 1428. 
 A new Gothic altar-screen w"as set 
 up 1844. In this ch. a light was 
 formerly kept burning in honour of 
 Henry VI. 
 
 To Fakenham, William the Lion, 
 King of Scotland, brought Gilbert, 
 Lord of Galloway, to make his 
 submission to Henry II. (Ben. Ab- 
 has). 
 
 [(a) 3i- m. S.W. of Fakenham, is 
 * Rainham Hall (Marquess of Towns- 
 hend), erected by Inigo Jones, 1030, 
 but altered and enlarged by Vis- 
 count Townshend (d. 1738), Secre- 
 tary of State under George I. and II., 
 and brother-in-law of Sir Robert 
 Walpole. Here is the celebrated 
 *Belisarius of Salvator Rosa, jjerhaps 
 the finest work of that master in 
 England. It was presented by Fre- 
 deric the Great to Charles Viscount 
 Townshend, and has been valued at 
 10,()00L 
 
 Ohs. the highly interesting col- 
 lection of full-length portraits of 
 English soldiers who served • in the 
 Low Country Wars mider Horatio 
 Lord Vere, formed by Lord Vere 
 himself, and long an ornament to his 
 house at Tilbury, near Clare, in 
 Essex (not Tilbury on the Thames). 
 This was the first collection of por- 
 traits (in the style of the Beauties, 
 the Admirals, the Waterloo heroes) 
 formed in this country by any one 
 person. The collection, when arranged 
 historically, would open with Horatio 
 Lord Vere, f.-l., in armour; Mary 
 Vere, his daughter (wife of Sir 
 Roger Townshend), who brought the 
 pictures to the Townshend family, 
 f.-l., Jansen; also a ^-length in red 
 dress ; Duke of Alva, f , in armoiu-, 
 on panel — Sir A. More (very fine). 
 Then come the soldiers of Lord Vere, 
 
288 
 
 itoide 8. — Bainham Sail and Chiircli. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 trailinp; their pikes, and painted 
 much in Jansen's manner, viz.: — 
 Sir Hobert Carey, Capt.; Sir Jacob 
 Astloy, Capt.; Henry Earl of Oxford ; 
 Sir Thomas Gates, Capt.; Sir Henry 
 Piiston, Capt.; Capt. Milles; Sir 
 Thos. Winne, Capt.; Sir Midi. 
 Evcrid, Capt.; Capt. Teboll ; Sir 
 Wni. Lovelace, Capt.; Sir John Bnr- 
 ronglis, Capt.; Sir Simon Harcourt, 
 Serjt.-Major ; Sir John Bnrlacy, 
 Lieut.-Col.; Sir Thomas Dalle, Capt.; 
 Sir Edward Vere, Lieut.-Col.; Sir 
 John Congreve, Capt.; Sir Thomas 
 Dalton. Capt.; Sir Thomas Conway, 
 Capt.; Sir Edward Harwood, Capt. 
 These portraits are particularly men- 
 tioned in the preface to Vere's ' Com- 
 mentaries,' and would form an orna- 
 ment to any collection. Dillingham, 
 who first published the ' Commen- 
 taries ' in 1657, gives " a list of some 
 of the scholars " of Sir Francis Vere, 
 and of his brother Horatio; seeing 
 that '' their proficiencie was ever 
 accounted a good argument of their 
 master's abilitie." He names 19, 
 and adds " beside others, whose effi- 
 gies do at once both guard and 
 adorn Kirby Hall in Essex." These 
 were the pictures now at Eainham. 
 They had been removed to Kirby 
 after the death of Lord Vere (see 
 Essex, Ete. 9). 
 
 Here are also : — Thomas Lord Fair- 
 fax, head, in armour, with red sash 
 and rich lace collar — good ; Sir Roger 
 Townshend, f.-l., in black, — Dohson ; 
 Horatio Lord Townshend, f {Lehj), 
 fine ; Dorothy Walpole, Viscountess 
 Townshend, the frail sister of Sir 
 Eobert ; Charles Lord Townshend, 
 f.-l., Kneller; IMrs. Harrison, mother 
 to Lucy Viscountess Townshend, f.-l. 
 (good), Kneller ; the chivalrous Earl 
 of Surrey, a fair old copy ; Sir Wil- 
 liam Temple — good ; Sir John Suck- 
 ling, after Vandyck, in black, with 
 hand at breast; the great Earl of 
 Clarendon, after Lely (as at The 
 Grove) ; Marquis of Montrose, head, 
 in armour, and moustachios — 
 genuine ; Wycherly ; Andrew Ma*- 
 
 vell — probably genuine; Sir Eobert 
 Walpole, 5, seated, with pen in his 
 hand, and silver standish by his 
 side ; Eight Hon. Henry Pelham, f , 
 Kneller ; Charles Townshend, the 
 brilliant Chancellor of the Exchequer 
 (" the delight and ornament of this 
 house," said Burke in Parliament, 
 '•and the charm of every private 
 society which he honoured with his 
 presence." " His good humour," 
 wrote Walpole, " prevented one from 
 hating him, and his levity from 
 loving him") ; and the first Marquis 
 of Townshend — both by Sir J. Bey- 
 nolds ; Betterton the actor — good ; 
 Quin the actor — good ; head of 
 a man, in black, temp. James 
 I. — fine ; with many other portraits 
 either nameless or indifferent, and 
 some good modern specimens, to be 
 seen at times, by Reynolds (portrait 
 of Mrs. Braddyll), WWcie (the Eastern 
 Letter writer), Hilton, and Danhy. 
 Obs. also a splendid old leather chest. 
 
 Some of the best pike-fishing in 
 Norfolk occurs at Eainham ; there 
 are to be seen two stufffed pike 
 weighing 24J lbs. and 28h lbs., both 
 caught on the same day (Oct. 1848). 
 
 Rainham Church is Perj?., and in 
 it is an elegant monument for Sir 
 Roger Townshend, Judge of the 
 Common Pleas, temp. Eichard HI. 
 and Henry VIL The Townshends 
 have been settled here since the 12 th 
 centy. 
 
 It is asserted that Charles Visct. 
 Townshend iii'st introduced turnips 
 from Hanover, as a field-crop, into 
 Norfolk, and that his first experiment 
 was made here. He was fond of 
 talking about his turnips, and Pope 
 has hitched him into rhyme accord- 
 ingly : — 
 
 " Why, of two brothers, rich and restless 
 one 
 Plows, burns, manures, and toils from sun 
 
 to sun, 
 The other slights, for women, sports, and 
 
 wines, 
 All Townshend's turnips and all Grosvcnor's 
 mines." 
 
 Imit. of Hot. bk. ii. ep. 2. 
 
Norfolk. iRoute 8. — East BarsJiain — Little Walsingham. 289 
 
 The park, of 1200 acres, planned by 
 Kent, is well wooded, and has a 
 sheet of water nearly 2 m. long^. 
 
 Whitaker, the historian of Whalley 
 and Craven, was born in West Eain- 
 ham parsonage, 1759. 
 
 (&) About 6 m. W. of Fakenham is 
 Hoiiglitm, built by Sir Kobert Wal- 
 pole (see Rte. 7). 
 
 (c) 10 m. N. of Fakenham Stat, is 
 *Holkham (Rte. 5). 
 
 (d) 3 m. N. of Fakenham, in the 
 valley of the Stiffkey is *East 
 Barsham Manor House (sometimes 
 called Wolterton Manor House in 
 East Barsham), now a ruin. It is 
 supposed to have been begun by 
 Sir Hen. Fernior, in the reign of 
 Henry VII., and completed in that 
 of Henry VIII., and is one of the 
 richest examples of ornamental brick- 
 work now extant. Upon the N. 
 and only remaining side of the 
 great court are an elegant entrance 
 porch, retaining above the arch the 
 arms of Henry VII., and a stack of 
 very handsome chimneys, with roses, 
 fleurs-de-lys, &c., in moulded brick ; 
 which is used in the ornamental parts 
 of the fabric. The outer gatehouse 
 has a fine crocketed archway with 
 niches, and the arms and ensigns of 
 Henry VIII., all in brick. 
 
 The remains are occupied as a 
 farmhouse. Much stained armorial 
 glass of the Formers and Calthorpes 
 was removed from hence to East 
 Dereham by Sir John Fenn. Tlie 
 place descended to the le Stranges, 
 who deserted it for Hunstanton. (For 
 plans and drawings see Pugin's 
 ' Examples,' vol. i., and Britten's 
 ' Ai'chit. Anti(j[uities,' vol. ii.) 
 
 (e) 3 m. E. from East Barsham, is 
 ThorpJand Hall, also built by the 
 Fermors in the reigu of Henry VII. 
 It is small, but has some good gables 
 and chimney-shafts. The walls are 
 of flint, the dressings of aslilar and 
 moulded brick.] 
 
 {Essex, d'c] 
 
 At Fakenham the rly. leaves the 
 valley of the Wensum, but soon enters 
 that of the Stiffkey (pronounced 
 Stewliey) river, and reaches 
 
 14^ m. New or Little Walsingham 
 Stat. (Old Walsingham is on the 
 opposite side of the stream; and 
 Kemble finds in the name a " ham " 
 or settlement of the Walsingas, a race 
 very famous in Anglian tradition, 
 since it numbered Sigmund and Beo- 
 wulf among its heroes.) New Wal- 
 singham was so named from the 
 foundation here, soon after the Con- 
 quest, of the Augustinian jjriory. It 
 is an old - fashioned market - town 
 {Inn: Black Lion; pop. of parish, 
 1069) standing pleasantly in a well- 
 wooded and fertile valley, 7 m. 
 from the sea. " In propinquo est 
 Oceanus ventorum pater," writes 
 Erasmus ; but there is little sign 
 at Walsingham of any mischief 
 from such propinquity. The narrow 
 streets, with their many gables and 
 red roofs, are perhaps not greatly 
 changed since the 15th centy., when 
 they were thronged by pilgrims from 
 all parts of the world, anxious to 
 jiay their vows at the shrine of Our 
 Lady of Walsingham — as celebrated 
 for miraculous influences as that of 
 St. Thomas at Canterbiuy. The 
 places of interest here at present 
 are— the remains of the Friory, 
 attached to which was this famous 
 shrine ; and the 'parish Church. 
 
 Early in the 12th centy., Richoldie, 
 mother of Geoffry de Favraches, built 
 here a small chapel, dedicated to the 
 Virgin. Her son GeoftVy, on the 
 day on which he departed on pil- 
 grimage to Jerusalem, granted " to 
 God, to St. Mary, and to Edwy his 
 clerk," this chapel, with the eh. of 
 All Saints, and much land, in order 
 that Edwy might found a priory. 
 Robert de Brucurt, and Roger Earl 
 of Clare, gave additional lands. These 
 gifts were made between 1146 and 
 1174 ; and between those years the 
 priory of Augustinian canons was 
 
 o 
 
290 
 
 Houte 8. — Walsingham Priory. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 founded. It l)ecame an enormously 
 wealthy and very important house, 
 deriving its chief consequence from 
 the original chapel constructed hy 
 Kiclioldie. " Almost from the founda- 
 tion of the priory up to the Dissolu- 
 tion, there was one unceasing move- 
 ment of pilgrims to and from Wal- 
 singham. The Virgin's milk and 
 other attractions were from time to 
 time added ; but the image of the 
 Virgin in the small chapel, ' in all 
 respects like to the Santa Casa at 
 Nazareth, where the Virgin was 
 saluted by the Angel Gabriel,' was the 
 original, and continued to the Dis- 
 solution the primary object of the pil- 
 grim's visit." — H. Harrod. A path, 
 still traceable in places from New- 
 market to Brandon and Fakenham, 
 is known as "Walsingham Green 
 Way," or the " Palmers' Way," and 
 resembles that " Pilgrims' Koad " 
 which passed along the hills of 
 Surrey and of Kent toward the shrine 
 of St. Thomas. (The milky way in 
 the lieavens was thought to point 
 toward the shrine, and was called in 
 Norfolk the " Walsingham Way." So 
 in the East it is called the " Hadji's 
 Eoad," as pointing to Mecca ; and in 
 Spain, " St. James's Way.") Henry 
 ni. ; Edward I. and II.; David 
 Bruce, King of Scotland; Queen 
 Catherine, in thanksgiving after 
 Flodden Field; came to Walsing- 
 ham in pilgrimage. Henry VII. 
 "made his prayers and vows for 
 help and deliverance " before the 
 shrine, during the troubles of his 
 reign ; and after the battle in which 
 Lambert Simnel was made prisoner, 
 he sent his banner to be oflered to 
 Our Lady of Walsingham — giving 
 her also a silver gilt image of him- 
 self, kneeling. Henry VIII. walked 
 hither barefoot from Barsham, and 
 hung a chain of gold round the 
 Virgin's neck — a piece of humility 
 for which he very soon amply in- 
 • Icnmified himself. Erasmus visited 
 tne shrine in 1511, and has left us an 
 amusing and edifying record of the 
 
 visit in his dialogue, ' Peregrinatio 
 Keligionis ergo' (sec J. Gough 
 Nichols's excellent translation and 
 instructive comments, 1819). The 
 priory was dissolved among the 
 greater monasteries ; and the famous 
 image was carried to Smithficld and 
 there burnt. Latimer wrote to Crom- 
 well proposing that it should be burnt 
 with other miraculous images. " Our 
 gret Sibyll " (the image at Islington) 
 " with her old syster of AValsyngham, 
 hyr younge syster of Ipswych, with 
 ther other too systura of Dongcaster 
 and Penryesse wold make a jooly 
 mustere in Smythfeld. They wold 
 nat be all day in burnynge." 
 
 The remains of the priory, the 
 property of the Eev. D. H. Lee 
 Warner, whose modern house oc- 
 cupies part of the site, are shown 
 only on Wednesdays and Fridays. 
 The ancient close is entered by a 
 gateway of Early Perp, character, 
 opening to the principal street. In 
 the upjjer i^art of the gateway a" 
 small head (a porter's?) is projected 
 through a quatrefoil oiJening. The 
 scene, on passing througli tliis gate- 
 way, will recall the verses of the 
 lamenting pilgrim : — 
 
 " Bitter, bitter, oh to behould 
 
 The grasse to growe, 
 Where the walls of Walsingham 
 So stately did shew. 
 
 The site of the priory is level, and 
 has now much fine wood about it. 
 Tlie Ch., which was of considerable 
 length, had on its S. side a cloister ; 
 W. of which was (so Mr. Harrod 
 conjectures) the guest hall, S. the 
 refectory, and E. the dormitory. 
 Eemains of the dormitory are in- 
 cluded within the present house. 
 The refectory is early Dec. ; and its 
 beautiful W. window has been care- 
 fully restored by Mr. Lee Warner. 
 There are remains of the staircase to 
 the reading jjulpit, and of the buttery 
 hatch in tlie S. wall. The W. end 
 of the ch., late E. Eng., was disclosed 
 during some excavations made in 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boute 8. — Wahingham Priory. 
 
 291 
 
 1853. The E. end displays a fine 
 fragment of late Dec. (curvilinear) 
 character, with nitches at the sides, a 
 large window, from which the tracery 
 has disappeared, and a small circ. 
 window above. 
 
 The famous shrine was not in this 
 ch. ; but tlie chapel in which it stood 
 was at some little distance S.E. It 
 is somewhat remarkable that the 
 exact site has not been ascertained 
 with certainty — a proof perhaps that 
 the chapel was destroyed with much 
 zeal after the Dissolution. When 
 Erasmus visited it, it would seem 
 that the ancient wooden chapel, 
 originally that of Kicholdie, was 
 being enclosed within a stone build- 
 ing, not then finished. Richoldie, 
 according to a legend which sprang 
 up at Walsingham at an early period, 
 intended to have built her chapel 
 close to what are now known as the 
 " Wishing Wells " (see -post) ; but 
 during the night the Virgin herself, 
 with a company of angels, raised it 
 on the site which it afterwards oc- 
 cupied, 200 yards or more from the 
 wells. (The legend belongs to the 
 game class as tliose which assigned 
 the consecration of the first chapel at 
 Glastonbury to Our Lord Himself, 
 and of the Abbey Ch. at Westminster 
 to St, Peter. The supposed resem- 
 blance of this chapel to the Santa 
 Casa must have been altogether an 
 afterthought ; since the famous house 
 at Loretto was not heard of until 
 1291, and Richoldie's chapel was in 
 existence long before.) A narrow 
 door on either side admitted and dis- 
 missed the pilgrims. Erasmus has 
 described the blaze of jewels, of gold, 
 and of silver. The image of the 
 Virgin was in no special manner dis- 
 tinguished, except by its miraculous 
 power. At the feet was a toadstone, 
 indicating her victory over all evil, 
 and uncleanness. " Vse nobis," ex- 
 claims the friend of Erasmus, in the 
 •Colloquy,' "qui tantum bufonem 
 geramus in pectore." The treasures 
 of the shrine were so great that Roger 
 
 Ascliam, visiting Cologne in 1550, 
 remarks " the three Kings be not so 
 rich, I believe, as was tlie Lady of 
 Walsingham." Erasmus himself left 
 here, on his first visit, a pious invo- 
 cation to the Virgin in Greek Iam- 
 bics, which he translated, when ha 
 revisited Walsingham, at the request 
 of the sub-prior. No one could read 
 it ; and the canons all thought it was 
 Hebrew. " Isti quidquid non intelli- 
 gunt, Hebraicum vocant." (Pereg. 
 Rel. ergo.) The relic of the Virgin's 
 milk was preserved on the high altar 
 in the great chui'ch. 
 
 Some distance E. of the ch. arc 
 the Wishing Wells, as they are now 
 called — one square, two circular, with 
 stone margins ; full to the brim. 
 They sprang from the ground, said 
 the legend, at the command of the 
 Virgin ; and the water was of great 
 service in disorders of the head or 
 stomach. (They now are sujDposed 
 to assist toward obtaining a single 
 wish of the drinker.) Over them 
 was a shed, said to have been brought 
 there mysteriously in time of winter, 
 when the ground was covered with 
 snow ; another " reminiscence " of 
 Loretto. Erasmus pointed to certain 
 recent changes, which seemed to in- 
 dicate that the shed had at least 
 been so often repaired that little af 
 its original remained ; but an old 
 bear's skin fastened to a beam was, 
 he was told, sufficient proof that his 
 reverence would not be wrongly 
 bestowed. E. of the wells was a 
 small chapel full of relics ; among 
 them a finger-joint of St. Peter, 
 " large enough for a giant." 
 
 In a line due N. of the E. end of 
 the ch. was a portal admitting to the 
 precincts, called the " Gateway of the 
 Knight," from a story that a knight 
 on horseback, pursued by his enemies, 
 was on the point of being taken at 
 the door, far too narrow for his 
 passage, when he called on the Virgin 
 for protection, and suddenly found 
 himself safe within, horse and all. 
 A brass figure of a mounted knight 
 
 o 2 
 
292 
 
 Boide 8. — Walsingham Church. Sect. Tit* 
 
 was fastened to the portal ; which, 
 as Mr. Harrod has pointed out, was 
 not the maiu W. gateway. A street 
 iu the town on this side is still known 
 as " Knight-street." 
 
 The town of Walsingham was full 
 of " hostels " for pilgrims; but none 
 of them can now be identified. In 
 the "Common Place," a row of 
 ancient timbered houses deserves 
 notice ; and here also is a remarkable 
 structure of Perp. character, over a 
 well. 
 
 The parish Church, dedicated to St. 
 Mary, is throughout Perp.,',the chancel 
 being perhaps later than the nave. 
 The nave is lofty ; and the piers 
 should be noticed for the manner in 
 which the shafts are carried up into 
 the capitals. From the chancel a 
 chapel opens on either side, with one 
 broad and one narrow arch — a striking 
 arrangement. The E. window retains 
 some portions of stained glass. There 
 are deep, triple sedilia. Some frag- 
 ments of the old screen remain across 
 the aisles. The font has been very 
 fine, raised on .S steps, with the 7 
 Sacraments on the basin, and small 
 figures below. The whole has been 
 effectually " dowsinged." In the N. 
 transept, besides some ancient coffin- 
 lids, is the elaborate tomb, with 
 effigies (which seem to be portraits), 
 of Sir Henry Sidney and his wife. 
 In the chancel are 2 tablets by Sir 
 R. Westmacott for members of the 
 Lee Warner family ; and a curious 
 memorial on the N. wall, represent- 
 ing the front of a bed, with curtains 
 drawn, and above it, "Dormitorium 
 Edwardi de Fotherbye." Eemark 
 also the rebus of Eobert Anguish, a 
 snake pierced with an arrow. 
 
 At the S. end of the town are the 
 remains of a Franciscan convent, 
 founded, circ. 21 Edw. III., by Eliz. 
 de Burgh, Countess of Clare, to the 
 great trouble and jealousy of the 
 Augustinians. A petition from tlie 
 prior and canons of Walsingham to 
 Eliz. Lady of Clare, imploring her 
 
 to abandon her project of allowing 
 the Franciscans to settle in their 
 neighbourhood (from Cotton MSS. 
 Nero E. vii.), was first printed by the 
 Ptev. J. Lee Warner, iu the ' Journal 
 of the Arch. Inst.,' 1869. It dates 
 cu'c. 1.345 ; and in it it is stated that 
 the gates of tiie priory were always 
 closed at night, on account of rob- 
 bers, their frequent threats, as well 
 as secret and open attacks on the 
 jewels of the shrine. Hence the 
 multitude of inns and hostels in 
 Walsingham, for pilgrims who ar- 
 rived late, after the gates were shut. 
 The ruins of the Franciscans' con- 
 vent are Perp., and extensive ; but 
 they have little architectural in- 
 terest. The greater part is now a 
 garden, shaded by apple-trees. Cab- 
 bages grow in the cloisters, and 
 cows look meditatively out of the 
 refectory windows. The ch. has 
 entirely disappeared. 
 
 2 m. S. of Walsingham, the Chapel 
 of Houghton-le-Dale deserves atten- 
 tion, it is a small Dec. building, 
 with a fine window, and a richly 
 groined roof, lately restored. It seems 
 to have been erected as a shriving- 
 place for pilgrims on their way to the 
 sacred shrine of Walsingham. 
 
 At Old or Great Walsingham, J m. 
 E. of Little Walsingham, " are the 
 remains of a fine Dec. church, the 
 chancel destroyed." The tower is 
 Dec, with a good W. window. The 
 nave, late Dec, and the aisles have 
 good doors and windows with fiowing 
 tracery. There are some good ex- 
 amples of carved seats and desks, of 
 Dec. and Perp. date. — A. I. N. 
 
 Tliere is nothing which calls for 
 special remark on the line between 
 Walsingham and 
 
 19 m. Wells Stat. (For Wells and 
 Holkham, see Rte. 5.) 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boiite 9. — King's Lynn to Wells. 
 
 293 
 
 EOUTE 9. 
 
 KINGS LYNN TO WELLS BY HUN- 
 STANTON, (castle kising, sand- 
 kingham). 
 
 (^Branch Railway, Lynn and Hun- 
 Stanton ; W. Norfolk Junction,) 
 
 Leaving Lynn, the rly. readies at 
 3 m. Wootton Stat. Adjoining is 
 
 a small and good ch., of E. Eng. 
 
 character, built in 1854 at the cost of 
 
 the Hon. Mrs. Howard, of Castle 
 
 Rising. 
 
 [A walk of I5 m. (no carriage is 
 to be procured at Wootton) will bring 
 the visitor to Castle Rising, a very 
 interesting place to the archaeologist, 
 and very picturesque. If Castle Acre 
 boasts of the most extensive monastic 
 ruins in the county, Castle Rising 
 shows what is certainly the finest ex- 
 ample in Norfolk of a mediaeval strong- 
 hold. Both places have been care- 
 fully examined and described by IMr. 
 Harrod ( ' Castles and Convents of 
 Norfolk;' Norwich, 1857). 
 
 The great Norm, tower stands in 
 the centre of a ballium, or enclosure 
 shut in by high mounds, the remains 
 of fortifications older than the castle 
 (the central perhaps British, the two 
 square additions Roman ; compare 
 Castle Acre, Rte. 7). Without the 
 central enclosing mound is a deep 
 fosse, covered with brushwood, from 
 which rise some magnificent and most 
 picturesque ash-trees. A stone bridge 
 
 crosses this fosse, and gives admis- 
 sion through a mouldering and shape- 
 less gateway to the inner bailey. The 
 gateway is Norm. The bridge has a 
 Perp. arch, with more ancient piers. 
 The Norm, castle here was erected 
 before 1176 by William d'Albini, first 
 Earl of Arundel of that family. On 
 the death of Hugh d'Albini in 1243, 
 without issue, it passed to Roger de 
 Montalt, in right of his wife, a sister 
 of Hugh d'Albini. It subsequently 
 passed (by sale) to the Crown, and 
 was held by Queen Isabella, by the 
 Black Prince, and by Richard II., 
 who exchanged it with John le Vail- 
 lant, Duke of Britanny, for the Castle 
 of Brest. The duke paid several 
 visits here ; but the exchange was 
 annulled in 1397. Henry VIII. ex- 
 changed it, for estates in Sufiblk, with 
 Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk ; 
 and it has since remained in the 
 hands of diflerent branches of the 
 Howard family. Its late proprietor, 
 the Hon. Colonel Howard, took ac- 
 tive steps to preserve it. 
 
 The keep is a massive square 
 Norman tower, with the usual low 
 projection on one side to cover the 
 entrance and staircase. This part 
 is richly adorned with intersecting 
 arches and zigzag mouldings. With- 
 in, a thick cross wall divides the 
 main floor into 2 apartments. The 
 chambers on the ground floor are 
 vaulted, perhaps as kitchens and 
 store-rooms ; above was the great hall, 
 with a long narrow gallery in the 
 thickness of its N. wall, having 5 
 arches on the 1. opening to what was 
 once the hall, and on the rt. a range 
 of windows ligliting the hall. There 
 is a small circular chamber at the 
 S.W. angle of this gallery, and two 
 small chambers opening from it on 
 the W. side of the keep. A room of 
 some size opened from tlie hall at the 
 S.W. corner ; and from this a small 
 apartment was entered, the walls of 
 which are enriched with a Norm, 
 arcade. On the E. side a large bold 
 Norm, arch opens to a vaulted recess, 
 
294 Boute 9. — Castle Rising : Castle and Church. Sect. III. 
 
 This has been called the cliapel, and 
 a shnilar chamber at Norwich is 
 known as the oratory ; but it seems 
 doubtful whether it was not intended 
 to serve, in both cases, as the private 
 apartment of the lord of the castle. 
 It should be remarked that the whole 
 arrangement of this keep resembles 
 that of Norwich, nearly of the same 
 date. 
 
 Remark a narrow stair thrown 
 across the great staircase to an open- 
 ing immediately above a Norm, but- 
 tress in the exterior wall. A square 
 hole opens immediately over the 
 centre of the great stair. The use of 
 this smaller staircase is uncertain, 
 since the foot of it is at a considerable 
 distance from the ground ; but it was 
 probably connected with the defences 
 of the keep, and may have been 
 reached from the ground by ladders 
 (compare the defences of a castle 
 keep in M. Violet le Due's ' Military 
 Architecture'). 
 
 The vestibule leading to the hall 
 at the top of the stairs serves now as 
 a sitting-room, and a chimney oc- 
 cupies the opening of the hall door- 
 way. Here are preserved a very fine 
 carved chest, temp. Charles II. ; and 
 many (but not very remarkable) relics 
 found in the castle — among them 
 two chains with large wooden clogs. 
 Into the wall of the vestibule are in- 
 serted many ancient tiles, bearing 
 the stag, the device of Edward II., 
 and the three lions of Edward III. 
 Queen Isabella, the " she - wolf of 
 France," long possessed this castle, 
 and resided here at intervals after 
 the death of Edward II. in 1330, to 
 her own death, at Hertford Castle, in 
 1350. She is usually (l^ut inac- 
 curately) said to have died at Castle 
 Rising, and to have been confined 
 here as a prisoner after the execution 
 of her paramour, Mortimer. Frois- 
 sart asserts that she was confined 
 "to a goodly castle;" but there is 
 evidence that this could not have 
 been for any lengthened period 
 (see Harrod's ' Castles and Convents 
 
 of Norfolk'). From the castle 
 mounds, and from the top of the 
 keep, there is a very fine view, 
 giving an excellent idea of all tliis 
 part of Norfolk. It extends toward 
 the sea in one direction, and in 
 another over plantations and sandy 
 heaths towards Sandriugham. The 
 country is not flat, though it nowhere 
 rises into important heights. Castle 
 Rising stands on a ridge or rising 
 ground which extends northward 
 along this coast, and between which 
 and the sea is a marshy level. Along 
 this ridge, throughout its extent, was 
 a line of very ancient settlements, 
 marked by the various parish 
 churches and villages, as Dersing- 
 ham and Snettisham, all of which 
 are ancient. The Church of Babing- 
 ley, near Castle Rising, is said to 
 have been founded by S. Fehx, the 
 first bishop of E. Anglia (see Scf- 
 FOLK, Rte. 5). Within the earthen 
 ramparts of the castle itself the ruins 
 of a chapel, with narrow eastern apse, 
 supposed (but very questionably) to 
 be of Saxon date, have been disin- i 
 terred. 
 
 From the castle mounds, the Hall 
 (Hon. Mrs. Howard) is seen close 
 below, and the Church, nestling 
 among very fine ash-trees and syca- 
 mores. The ch, is, says Rickman, 
 " a very fine example of rich late 
 Norm, work, ornamented with twisted 
 shafts, and a kind of lozenge, forming 
 a connecting link between the zigzag 
 and the tooth ornament of the next 
 style." Its probable date is between 
 1115 and 1150. It consists of nave, 
 tower at intersection of nave and 
 chancel (the latter very short), and 
 short transept, with (in the S. arm) an 
 eastern chapel (or altar recess). The 
 ch. has been restored by Salvin, who 
 replaced a parapet on the tower with 
 the existing high pitched and pic- 
 turesque roof, for which authority 
 is not wanting in England (as at 
 Sompting, in Sussex), and abounds 
 on the Rhine. The mouldings of the 
 W. door should be noticed. Above 
 
Norfolk. Bouie 0. — Castle Bising Church — Wolferion. 295 
 
 is a much enricliod round-headed 
 ■window, and interlacing arches at 
 tLe sides, the alternate capitals of 
 "which display human heads of un- 
 usual and ferocious expression. Above 
 again is a round-headed window, and 
 plain arches. The tower arches vary, 
 the use of both round and pointed 
 showing their Transitional character. 
 The arrangement of the small altar 
 in the E. wall of the S. transept de- 
 serves notice. There is a most re- 
 markable piscina. In a niche over 
 the altar recess is placed a carved 
 shield, with the monogram I H S 
 (this, of course, is a recent addition). 
 The short and very dark chancel 
 retains its Norm, walls but had E. 
 Eng. windows inserted. On the S. 
 side of the nave are 6 round-headed 
 "v\indows, high in the wall. There are 
 none on the N. side, as is the case in 
 some early Yorkshire churches, and in 
 many churches of the 12th and 13th 
 centuries in Sweden (warmth, and 
 an objection to light from the North, 
 as the quarter of the Evil One, may 
 have been the reasons for this ar- 
 rangement). The font is square, 
 with heads at the angles, and inter- 
 lacing work round the stem. In the 
 ch, is a tablet, raised by his tenantry, 
 foi Colonel Fulke Greville-Howard, 
 born 1783 ; who took the name of 
 Howard when, in 1807, he married 
 "Mary, daughter and sole heiress 
 of Eichard and the Hon. Frances 
 Howard, of Castle Kising in Nor- 
 folk, Levens in Westmoreland, Ash- 
 stead in Surrey, and Elford in Staf- 
 fordshire." 
 
 W. of the ch. extends the village 
 green, with a cross on steps (a re- 
 storation) in its centre. The scene 
 is singularly pleasant and tranquil ; 
 and the artist will find many subjects 
 for his pencil in and about Castle 
 Kising, where the trees are unusually 
 fine. Adjoining the churchyard is 
 an almshouse for women, founded 
 temp. James I. by Henry Howard, 
 the learned and eccentric Earl of 
 Northampton. The inmates wear 
 
 red cloaks with the Howard badge, 
 and the high peaked hats of James 
 I.'s time, a costume which probably 
 survives in no other part of England. 
 The marshes extending seaward 
 were, according to the local rhyme, 
 once covered by the sea itself, now 2 
 m. off — 
 
 " Rising was a sea-port town 
 When Lynn was but a marsh ; 
 Now^ Lynn it is a sea-port, 
 And Rising fares the worse." 
 
 Until the Ecform Act Castle Rising 
 returned 2 members to Parliament, 
 though only 4 or 5 names apjieared 
 on the poll lists, and the only legal 
 voter was the rector. It was wholly 
 disfranchised. 
 
 (The tourist may walk or drive 
 from Castle Eising to Sandringham, 
 3 m., and proceed thence to the 
 Wolferton Stat., 2J m. from Sandring- 
 ham. The drive from Castle Eising 
 is not unpleasant, through plantations 
 and over open heaths.)] 
 
 The next stat. on the rly. is 
 6 m. Wolferton. The Church is 
 passed close to the line, shortly be- 
 fore entering the stat. It is PerjD., 
 with some E. Eng. portions, and 
 some remains of good woodwork. 
 
 Wolferton is the stat. for Sandring- 
 ham, 2^ m. distant. Tliere are very 
 extensive views from the high land 
 between Wolferton and Sandring- 
 ham, toward Castle Eising (S.) and 
 Snettisham (N.) (in which direction 
 Cane or Ken Point, a tree-covered 
 ridge projecting over the marshes, is a 
 good landmark), as well as seaward. 
 The tower of Boston Ch., in Lincoln- 
 shire, is visible in clear weather. The 
 country passed is sandy and heathy, 
 with much fern and young planta- 
 tion. In parts it is very wild and 
 pleasing. A few red deer and black- 
 cock have been introduced, and are 
 said to flourish. All the district, 
 including the small parishes of Sand- 
 ringham, Babingley, Wolferton, Ap- 
 pleton, W. Newton, and much of 
 
296 
 
 Boute 9. — Sandringliam Parh 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 Dersinghani, tlie wliolc amounting 
 to about 7000 acres, is the property 
 of H.E.H. the Prince of Wales. The 
 greater part of the estate passed 
 from the Henleys to J. Motteux, 
 Esq., who left it by will to the Hon. 
 C. Spencer Cowper. By him it was 
 sold in 1861 to the Prince for 
 220,000L Some additions have since 
 been made to it. Besides the wild 
 land there is much rich meadow and 
 pasture, much wood, and salt marshes 
 frequented in winter by many rare 
 wildfowl. The sport is consequently 
 varied and very good. Partridges 
 and pheasants abound, and wood- 
 cock and snipe are plentiful. 
 
 A line of telegraph wire is carried 
 from Wolferton Stat, to Sandringliam 
 Hall. The park, of which the wall 
 borders the road rt., consists of about 
 300 acres, contains some old trees, 
 and is well stocked with deer. >S'an- 
 dringham Ch., rt., is Perp., and was 
 restored in 1835 by Lady Harriette 
 Cowper (S. S. Teulon, architect). 
 With the exception of some stained 
 glass and the font cover, the fittings 
 and decorations of the ch. are entirely 
 modern. Not fnv from the ch. is a 
 house occupied by Lieut. - General 
 Knollys, the Prince's treasurer. 
 
 Admission to the park and to the 
 grounds of Sandringliam (there is 
 nothing else to see; is only given 
 when the house is unoccupied. (For 
 leave apply to E. Beck, Esq., West 
 Newton, the Prince's agent.) New 
 gardens of considerable extent have 
 been well laid out, and are admirably 
 kept; various buildings, and offices 
 have been erected; and the house 
 itself, which, although comfortable, 
 is of no great size or importance, 
 is (1869) in course of an almost 
 complete rebuilding (Humbert, 
 architect). The chief ornaments 
 of the place are the well-known 
 Nonvich Gates, which stand at the 
 principal entrance, and are well 
 backed and contrasted by some fine 
 and large lime-trees. These gates, 
 of very great beauty, are the work 
 
 of IMessrs. Barnard, of Nor\vich. 
 They were conspicuous in the Ex- 
 hibition of 1862, and were given to 
 the Prince by the county of Norfolk 
 in 1864. 
 
 Eetuming to the rly., we reach 
 8 m. Dersingham Stat. The vil- 
 lage is seen 1. Here is a large and 
 fine Ch. (St. Nicholas), in a state of 
 complete disrepair. No antiquary 
 can complain that his landmarks 
 have been removed at Dersingham — 
 at least in recent times. The nave 
 arcade is early Perp., with heads at 
 the intersections ; the piers octa- 
 gonal, and fluted, with a trefoil at 
 the head of each fluting. There is a 
 Perp. clerestor)''. The tower arch is 
 Perp. The font is Perp., but is dis- 
 used, and has a white basin turned 
 upside down on its cover. At the E. 
 end of the N. aisle is a tomb, with a 
 covering slab of black marble, having 
 two figures incised in outline at the 
 top, and below an inscription for John 
 Pell, "Quondam Maior Liniise Ke- 
 gis," and his wife, died 1607. At 
 the sides are kneeling figures of G 
 sons and 3 daughters. The chanced 
 is large and long, with an E. window 
 of flowing Dec. character. Tie 
 tower is Perp., with no W. door. 
 
 (The tourist may visit Dersingham 
 Ch., and walk thence '(3J m.) by la- 
 goldisthorpe to Snettisham. The 
 round, however, is hardly worth 
 making unless there is iilenty of 
 time at disposal. Ingoldistliorpe Ch. 
 (St. Michael) is Dec. and Perp., and 
 has been well restored. Mount 
 Amelia (Captain J. Davy, E.N.) is 
 passed before reaching the ch. It 
 stands pleasantly on high ground, 
 looking over a wooded country to the 
 sea. The house is seen rt. in passing 
 from Dersingham Stat, to 
 
 9f m. Snettisham Stat. Here the 
 Ch. should be seen. It stands above 
 the village, and 1 J m. from the stat. 
 The spire is well known as a sea- 
 mark. The ch. itself is throughout 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boute 9. — Snettisliam — Hunstanton. 
 
 297 
 
 lato Dec, and has been well and 
 thoroughly restored under the direc- 
 tion of ilir. Butterfield and the late 
 Mr. le Strange. The tower was cen- 
 tral; but the chancel and N. tran- 
 sept are ruined, only fragments of 
 wall remaining in each. The tower 
 has side windows and pinnacles ; and 
 from it rises the spire, with a double 
 tier of louvre openings. The com- 
 position is fine; and the arrange- 
 ment of the tower windows should be 
 specially noted. The W. front of the 
 ch., an imitation on a small scale of 
 the well-known W. front or porch 
 of Peterborough Cathedral, is remark- 
 able. The porch itself is very plain ; 
 but above it is a superb Dec. window, 
 with elaborate tracery. In general 
 character it resembles the W. win- 
 dows of York and Durham Cathedrals. 
 The piers and arches of the nave are 
 lofty and fine. The '.clerestory above 
 them is remarkable, with windows 
 alternately round-headed and circu- 
 lar, but all late Dec. The present 
 E. window is, of course, later. The 
 stained glass in the W. window is by 
 Warrington. At the E. end of the 
 N. aisle is an altar-tomb and effigy 
 for Sir Wymond Carey, 1612 ; and a 
 hrass ^ov John Cremer and family, 
 1610. Snettisham Ch. served as a 
 model for Fredericton Cathedral, New 
 Brunswick. 
 
 The position of the ch., rising from 
 among trees, is striking ; and there 
 is much pleasing scenery in this 
 neighbourhood. Snettisham has long 
 been the property of the le Stranges 
 of Hunstanton. 
 
 At 12| m. Heacham Stat, (the Ch. 
 is Dec. and Perp. ; there is a good 
 Dec. E. window) is the junction with 
 the W. Norfolk Ely., running to 
 Wells. A short branch brings us to 
 
 15 m. Hunstanton (locally called 
 Hu7i8ton.) The stat. is at the new 
 town, generally called " St. Ed- 
 mund 'a." Letters should be directed 
 apcorcliogly, otberwiee they go to 
 
 Old Hunstanton (the true village), 
 IJ m. distant. Inn at St. Edmund's, 
 the Green Lion, very well placed on 
 the cliff, new, and tolerably comfort- 
 able. At Hunstanton village, the 
 " le Strange Arras," quiet and old- 
 fashioned. Lodgings abound at St. 
 Edmund's. (It must be remembered 
 that Hunstanton, during the summer, 
 is exposed to constant forays of ex- 
 cursionists, who are brought here 
 hundreds at a time from Cambridge- 
 shire, Lincolnshire, and elsewhere. 
 Their visits do not tend to increase 
 the comfort of the inns or of the 
 beach.) 
 
 St. Edmund's, a village which has 
 arisen within the last few years (there 
 is a small new ch. here, partly com- 
 pleted), stands near the S.W. end of 
 a line of lofty clifl', which here breaks 
 the monotony of the flat marshy 
 shores stretching away on either side 
 of it. Near the sea, the country is 
 bare and unwooded, though there is 
 some pleasant scenery farther inland. 
 The cliff itself, the firm sandy beach 
 below it, and the wide sea view, are 
 the chief attractions of the place; 
 and some interesting excursions may 
 be made from Hunstanton. 
 
 The cliffy about 1 m. long, and 60 
 ft. high at its highest point, is 
 striking, from its sharp contrasts of 
 colour. It is formed of the lower 
 chalk ; grey chalk marl, containing 
 organic remains in great plenty; 
 white chalk, full of branching zoo- 
 phytes; red chalk, also containing 
 organic remains ; green sand ; and a 
 dark-brown breccia. The beach is 
 strewn with fragments of the white 
 and red chalk. (The latter is pe- 
 culiar to the counties of Norfolk, 
 Lincoln, and Yorkshire. Its colour is 
 attributetl to peroxide of iron.) Amber 
 and jet are found on the coast here ; 
 and the keepers of the lighthouse 
 generally have good specimens for 
 sale, as well as remains from the 
 " submarine forest " of oak, willow, and 
 other trees, with bones and shells, 
 
 3 
 
298 
 
 Boiite 9. — Hunstanton ChurcJi. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 This submarine forest lies off the coast, 
 at wliat are called the '' Holme and 
 Thoruham Scalphs," ("Scalph" here 
 signifies a spot alternately covered and 
 uncovered by the tide ; so the A.-S. 
 scealfor = a diver), near the W. end 
 of Brancaster Bay, stretches across 
 the Wash, and extends along the 
 Lincolnshire coast as far as Grimsby. 
 No human remains have been dis- 
 covered among the stumps of trees, 
 wliich are in situ, and of great size ; 
 but a stone celt, sticking into one of 
 these trunks, was found by Mr, Mun- 
 ford in 1831, and is now in the 
 Norwich Museum. The submersion 
 of this extensive forest indicates the 
 extent to which the laud of the low 
 coast, within comparatively recent 
 times, has been destroyed by ocean 
 currents. 
 
 Peregrine falcons formerly bred 
 in the chalk cliffs, but have long 
 disappeared. 
 
 There is a pleasant walk along 
 the cliff to the lighthouse, the light 
 in which is fixed. In the Wash, off 
 the coast, is a floating (and revolving) 
 light. Near the lighthouse, and on 
 the highest part of the cliff, are the 
 shattered ruins of St. Edmund's 
 Chapel, which in earlier days may 
 well have served as a pliaros to ships 
 passing to and from Lynn. Its age 
 is uncertain ; but the local tradition 
 runs that the chapel was founded by 
 St. Edmund himself, after he had 
 been shipwrecked on his first passage 
 to England. (For the legend of St. 
 Edmund, see Suffolk, Ete, 3.) The 
 wreck is said to have taken place 
 on the low spit of sand called "St. 
 Edmund's Point," stretching sea- 
 wards about 1 m. E. of the light- 
 house. This point marks the western 
 termination of the " Meols" or sandy 
 foreshores, abounding in rabbits and 
 wild fowl, which extend hence to 
 Salthouse, between Wells and Cro- 
 mer. (See Kte. 5.) 
 
 The old village of Hunstanton 
 lies somewhat inland from the light- 
 house. The family of le Strange 
 
 have been lords here since the Con- 
 quest, holding Hunstanton for some 
 time under the Fitz-Alaus, by the 
 tenure of castle guard at Rising. 
 The Church, of Early Dec. character, 
 was almost entirely rebuilt by the 
 late Mr. le Strange, whose great 
 knowledge of early art and personal 
 skill as an artist are displayed in the 
 work here, and in the design and 
 decoration of part of the ceiling of 
 Ely Cathedral. The village ch. of 
 Hunstanton is very beautiful. The 
 E. window, of 5 lights, is filled with 
 stained glass by Preedij — inserted 
 in 1867 as a memorial of Mr. le 
 Strange by his widow and children. 
 The subjects are — in the centre 
 light, the Crucifixion, the Eesurrec- 
 tion, and the Ascension; with the 
 Old Testament types in the lights 
 on either side ; and in the outer 
 lights other subjects from the last 
 days of Our Lord's ministry. Below 
 is an altar-piece with figures of 
 angels in mosaic. The seats are low 
 and open ; the oaken roof is rich and 
 massive, with half-figures of the 
 Apostles in the nave, and angels in 
 the choir. Round the font are 
 panels in mosaic. All the designs 
 for the restoration (rebuilding) of 
 the ch. were supplied by Mr, le 
 Strange; and the timber used was 
 from the Hunstanton estate. 
 
 In the chancel are monuments for 
 Roger le Strange, "Knight of the 
 Body" to Hen. VII.— the first Kmg 
 of England who established such a 
 body-guard ; and to Henry le Strange 
 and his wife, 1485. Remark also 
 a gravestone with the inscription — 
 
 " In heaven, at home, blessed change ! 
 Who, while I was on earth, was Strange." 
 
 There is a small brass for Edward 
 Green and his wife, temp. Hen. VI. 
 The S. porch has a foliated arch of 
 entrance. In the churchyard is 
 buried the restorer of the ch., who 
 died July 27, 1SG2. 
 
 Near the ch. is the entrance to 
 Hunstanton Hall, the ancient resi- 
 
Norfolk. Boute 9 .-^Hunstanton Hall — BurnJiam Marlcef. 299 
 
 dence of the Le Stranges. The house 
 is for the most part of the end of the 
 15th centy., and was chiefly built 
 by Sir Koger le Strange, whose 
 monument remains in the ch., but 
 the W. wing was burned down in 
 1853. It is surrounded by a moat. 
 Some ancient armour, old furniture, 
 and family pictm-es, are preserved 
 here ; among the latter a portrait of 
 Sir Thomas le Strange, by Holbein. 
 The chapel, open to the staircase 
 and to the gallery above, is hung 
 with crimson velvet, on which are 
 the words — "In resurrectione tua 
 Christe coeli et terrse Isetentur. 
 Alleluia, Amen." The le Stranges 
 were firm adherents to the Stuarts; 
 and a portrait of the " Old Pretender" 
 hangs on the staircase. Sir Roger 
 le Strange, born here in 1616, was 
 active on the side of Charles I., and 
 was for some time imprisoned in 
 Newgate, for an attempt to seize the 
 town of Lynn for the King. He 
 escaped to the Continent, and after 
 the Restoration became well known 
 as a political writer, and established 
 a newspaper called ' The Public In- 
 telligencer.' He translated the 
 ' Colloquies ' of Erasmus, and -35sop's 
 fables — " a pattern of bad writing," 
 says Hallam ; " yet by a certain wit 
 and readiness in raillery Le Strange 
 was a popular writer, and may even 
 now be read, perhaps, with some 
 amusement." 
 
 The park stretches W. of the hall, 
 and contains some fine old trees. 
 Its verdure is all the pleasanter from 
 contrast with the bare shoreland. 
 There is some high ground in the 
 park, with an ancient "pleasure 
 house," from which there are views 
 over the sea and inland country. 
 
 The Ch. of Bingstead St. Andreic, 
 at the end of a pleasant valley be- 
 yond the i^ark, is Dec, and was 
 restored in 1864. 
 
 [^Brancaster, on the coast, 8 m, 
 from Hunstanton, is the site of 
 the Roman station of Branoduuum, 
 
 A cohort of Dalmatian cavalry 
 was stationed here when the ' No- 
 titia ' was compiled, toward the close 
 of the Roman occupation, probably 
 early in the 5th centy. Of the Roman 
 fortress, only part of the N. side is 
 visible. The walls on the other 
 sides (enclosing about 6 acres) were 
 used for building an enormous malt- 
 house, 312 ft. long, now abandoned. 
 Many Roman relics have been found 
 here; and the road called the 
 " Peddar's Way " seems to iiave 
 been connected with this station, 
 which was under the command of 
 the Count of the Saxon Shore.] 
 
 Returning from Hunstanton to the 
 rly. at Heacham, the line to Wells 
 passes through a somewhat dreary 
 and uninteresting chalk district, 
 with large, open, treeless fields, in 
 which " gangs " of labourers may be 
 seen at work. The stations are — 
 
 15 J m. (from Lynn) Sedgeford. 
 The Ch. is good Dec, with a Norm, 
 font, and some ancient woodwork. 
 The E. and W. windows are filled 
 with modern stained glass. 
 
 ISJ m. DocJiing, The Ch. is Dec. 
 and Perp. 
 
 21 m. Stanhoe. 
 
 24.J m. Burnham Marhet. Here 
 the country is pleasanter, and 
 wooded. The Ch., chiefly Perp., has 
 sculptured on the battlements of 
 the tower scenes from the life of Our 
 Lord. This is one of a group of 7 
 " Burnhams " — so named jDrobably 
 from the '"burn" or brook on the 
 banks of which they stand. The 
 most interesting is, of course, Burn- 
 ham Thorpe, the birthplace of Lord 
 Nelson (see for it, Rte. 5, Excur- 
 sion from AVells). Burnham Norton 
 Ch. has a round tower. In the 
 Ch. of Burnham Deepdale is a Norm, 
 font, square, and having 3 sides 
 filled with figures representing the 
 "husbandry" of the 12 months. 
 
300 
 
 Boute 10. — Lynn to Wisheach. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 The 4tli side li.as ornameutal leaf- 
 ago. Such subjects are found else- 
 whore on Norm, fonts, ns on the 
 leaden font in Walton Ch., Surrey. 
 
 The lino now passes through 
 Holkham Marshes, with a station 
 at 
 
 281 m. HoUclmm. Holkham Park 
 (see Kte. 5) extends rt.; and 1. is 
 the sea, beyond low sandy dunes. 
 The rly. soon reaches 
 
 31 m. Wells (see Kte. 5). 
 
 ROUTE 10. 
 
 LYNN TO W I SB EACH (THE MAESH- 
 
 land). 
 
 A Ijranch of the Great Northern 
 Railway runs Irom Lynn to Spalding, 
 with a short branch from Sutton 
 Bridge to Wisbeaeh. By this line 
 sonio of the most interesting churches 
 in the Marshland (through which it 
 passes) may be visited. Tlie finest 
 of these churches, which will amply 
 repay the attention of tlie antiquary, 
 are Terrington St. Clement's ; Tilney 
 All Saints; Walpole St. Peter's; 
 West Walton, and Walsoken. 
 
 The Marshland, through the north- 
 ern part of which the rly. passes, 
 is a remarkable tract of rich and fer- 
 tile land, perfectly level, forming the 
 
 N.W. corner of Norfolk, between the 
 rivers Ouse and None. It is about 
 7 m. broad, and extends S. as far as 
 the Po or Pa dyke (query ihepaad or 
 p<i;th dyke (A.-S.)=:the dyke serving 
 as a path or road ?), 14. m. from the 
 Wash. It is in eliect a portion of 
 the great level of the Fens — that low- 
 lying tract which lies at the junc- 
 tion of the counties of Lincoln, Hun- 
 tingdon, Cambridge, and Norfolk. 
 " Not many centuries ago, this vast 
 tract of about 2000 square miles of 
 land was entirely abandoned to the 
 waters, forming an immense estuary 
 of the Wash, into which the rivers 
 Witham, Welland, Glen, None, and 
 Ouse, discharged the rainfall of the 
 central counties of England. It was 
 an inland sea in winter and a noxious 
 swamp in summer. . . . The 
 floods descending from the interior 
 . . . . were laden with silt, 
 which became deposited in the basin 
 of the Fens. Thus the river-beds 
 were from time to time choked up, 
 and the intercepted waters forced 
 new channels through the ooze, 
 meandering across the level, and 
 often winding back upon themselves, 
 until at length the surplus waters 
 through many openings, di-ained 
 away into the Wash. Hence the 
 numerous abandoned bods of old 
 rivers still traceable amidst the 
 great level of the Fens — the old 
 None, the old Ouse, and the old Wel- 
 land. The Ouse, which in past 
 times flowed into the Wash at Wis- 
 beaeh (or Ouse Beach), now enters 
 at King's Lynn, near which there 
 is anotlier " Old Ouse." .... 
 Along tlie shores of the Wash, where 
 the fresh and salt waters met, the 
 tendency to the deposit of silt was 
 the greatest ; and in the course of 
 ages the land at the outlet of the in- 
 land waters was raised above the 
 level of the interior. Accordingly 
 the first land reclaimed in the dis- 
 trict was the rich fringe of deposited 
 silt lying along the shores of tho 
 Wash, now known as Marshland, ancl 
 
KORFOLK. 
 
 Boute 10. — Terrmgfon. 
 
 301 
 
 South Holland. . . . This was 
 tlie work of the Komans. . , The 
 bulwarks or causeways which they 
 raised to keep out the sea are still 
 traceable at Po-dyke in Marshland, 
 and at various points near the old 
 coast line." — Smiles' 'Lives of the 
 Engineers,' i. 19. 
 
 Evidence of this ancient reclama- 
 tion is afforded by the state of the 
 country through which the rly. 
 passes. It is by no means badly 
 wooded. Large ash-trees abound. 
 Its pastm'e is famous, and it pro- 
 duces fine grain crops. It is seamed 
 with ancient dykes and turf fences, 
 marking its gradual recovery from 
 the water. One of the most recent 
 of these green ramparts was con- 
 structed by Count Bentinek, an 
 ancestor of the Duke of Portland, 
 who (1773) recovered more than 
 1000 acres, and died of the marsh 
 fever. The duke has large estates 
 here. 
 
 Passing stations at 
 2^ m. West Lijnn, and 
 5 m. Clenchicarton, we reach, 
 6J m. from Lynn, Terrington Stat. 
 The stat. is some little distance from 
 the ch. of Terrington St. Clement's, 
 which lies rt. 
 
 At this place, in 1607, a terrible 
 flood occurred, owmg to the burst- 
 ing of Terrington dyke, during a 
 storm from the N.E. Many persons 
 were drowned, and the jury for the 
 hundred reported that — " In their 
 distress the people of the town fled 
 to the ch. for refuge, some to hay- 
 stacks, some to the baulks in the 
 houses, till they were near famished ; 
 poor women leaving their children 
 swimming in their beds, till good 
 people, adventuring their lives, went 
 up to the breast in the water to 
 fetch them out at the windows ; 
 whereof Mr. Browne, the minister, 
 did fetch divers to the ch. upon his 
 back. And had it not pleased God 
 to move the hearts of the mayor and 
 ftlderwen of King's Lyno with com- 
 
 passion, who sent beer and victuals 
 thither by boat, many had perished ; 
 which boats came the direct way 
 over the soil from Lynn to Terring- 
 ton." 
 
 The magnificent Perp. Church of 
 Terrington St. Clement's might have 
 aflbrded shelter to a goodly number 
 of the distressed. It is of unusual size, 
 and sufficiently proves, by its decora- 
 tion and massive construction, the re- 
 sources of the ancient lords of Terring- 
 ton. It is built throughout of Barnack 
 stone — easily brought to this place 
 from Northamptonshire by water. 
 The ch. consists of nave with aisles, 
 central lantern, short transepts, 
 chancel, and detached tower at W. 
 end of N. aisle. The nave piers 
 are octagonal, with small heads 
 at the intersections of arches on S. 
 side. The clerestory is very lofty 
 and light, having two windows in 
 each bay (a window above each 
 spandrel of the arch below ; this is 
 a favourite arrangement in the Perp. 
 chs. of E. Anglia). Between each 
 window runs up a shaft, on which 
 has been a figure, surmounted by a 
 rich canopy. The figures are gone. 
 The canopies (groined, and sui'- 
 mounted by battlemented screen- 
 work^ nearly all remain. At the 
 base of each shaft is a grotesque 
 animal, or a human head and pro- 
 jecting arm resting on the string- 
 course. Over the western arch of 
 the lantern are 7 canoijied niches, 
 declining in size from the centre. 
 The other arches of the lantern are 
 lofty and fine. At the angles are 
 remarkable brackets, in groups of 
 3 ; and above each arch is a small 
 Perp. window. The transepts are 
 shallow, and hardly project beyond 
 the aisles. They have many win- 
 dows (G at the S. end of the S. 
 transept), and in the string-course 
 of the N. transept are heads resting 
 on projected arms, as in the clere- 
 story. The chancel is long and un- 
 aisled, with good window tracery. 
 
 At the ends of the transept are 
 
302 
 
 Bouie 10. — Tilney All Saints Church. Sect. III. 
 
 the Creed and Lord's Prayer, dated 
 1G35, and curious. The Pcrp. font 
 has a very remarkable cover. The 
 original tabernacle work has been 
 altered at some uncertain time. The 
 interior is painted in a singular 
 manner, temp. Queen Anne (?). The 
 lower part represents the baptism of 
 Our Lord. There are also two 
 scenes from the temptation, in which 
 the Devil wears a red robe and a 
 golden crown ; and in one panel a 
 forest scene, with animals. Above 
 are the Evangelists with their em- 
 blems, and the mysterious inscrij)- 
 tion — " Voce Pater. Natus Corpore. 
 Flamen ave. Mat. 3." TJie upper 
 part of the canopy has red and white 
 roses. On the outside, groups of 
 shafts, painted black, with gold 
 streaking, suj^port the rich taber- 
 nacle work — painted black, white, 
 and gold. 
 
 The nave and aisles of the ch. 
 are battlemented ; the battlements 
 have disappeared from the chancel. 
 The tower, very massive, with 
 diminishing buttresses, and of great 
 size below, may have been built, like 
 that at Howden, in Yorkshire, as a 
 refuge in case of flood. 
 
 [The Ch. of Tilney All Saints may 
 be reached from Terriugton Stat., 
 whence it is 1:} m. S.W. This is a 
 very fine Norm, and Trans, ch,, and 
 the effect on entering at the W. door 
 is most striking. It has been lately 
 restored, and with great judgment. 
 As at present arranged, there is a 
 nave of 6 bays beyond the W. tower. 
 The first or westernmost bay is 
 pointed. The others have circular 
 arches with plain soffetes, receding 
 in 2 orders. The piers on the S. 
 side are all circular, with leaf and 
 other ornaments; the bases square, 
 with rounded mouldings. On the 
 N. side all the piers are round ex- 
 cept 2, formed by clustered, engaged 
 shafts. The volute which appears 
 in the capitals indicates their late 
 (Transitional) character. There is 
 
 a Perp. clerestory, and a fine Perp. 
 open roof — a double hammer-beam, 
 much enriched witli figures, angels 
 bearing shields and others. The 
 chancel roof is plainer, and is modern. 
 The angels here bear shields with 
 the emblems of Our Lord's Passion. 
 The aisle windows are all Perp. 
 The nave has been newly and well 
 seated iu oak, and the pulpit and 
 reading-desk (modern; are of very 
 good carved oak. There is a screen 
 across chancel and aisles. That 
 dividing the chancel aisles from the 
 nave is Perp. That in the centre is 
 Jacobean, with the date 1618, an 
 unusual example of so late a period. 
 Over it are the royal arms with the 
 letters A. R., and the date 1711. 
 The present chancel is of 2 bays, 
 with round arches. In the eastern- 
 most bay are 2 round-headed arches 
 close together in the wall, which 
 may have been windows. The sedi- 
 lia and piscina and the E. window 
 are Perp. There are other indica- 
 tions of ancient work in the wall 
 close under the roof, jjossibly of a 
 Norm, clerestory. The font is very 
 late Perp., with inscriptions, perhaps 
 Elizabethan. The westernmost bay 
 of the nave and the tower arch are 
 E. E. The tower itself is E. E., with 
 Dec. uppermost story, and a Dec. 
 spire. 
 
 In the churchyard are many fine 
 and pictul-esque ash-trees ; and here 
 until recently (it is now moved into 
 the ch., at the W. end of the N. nave 
 aisle) was a grave slab with a cross 
 and circle round it, pointed out as 
 a memorial of the giant Hickathrift 
 or Hickafric, who, according to tra- 
 dition, won the liberty of the Smeeth 
 for the 7 " towns " of the Marshland. 
 The Smeeth (smethe (A.-S.) = smooth, 
 level) is a tract of very fertile com- 
 mon land, stretching S. of Tilney, 
 on which at one time constantly 
 grazed 30,000 sheep. It is still most 
 productive ; and it has been said that 
 if you lay a wand over night on the 
 sward of the Smeeth, you will not 
 
Norfolk. Boute 10. -^Walpole — Sutton Bridge. 
 
 discern it in the morning, so rapidly 
 does the grass grow. The outsiders, 
 according to the story, attempted to 
 possess themselves of portions of this 
 Smeeth ; but Hickathrift, " a person 
 of extraordinary stature and courage, 
 took an axle-tree from a cart instead 
 of a sword ; and the wheel for his 
 buckler ; and being so armed, most 
 stoutly repelled those bold invaders." 
 In confirmation of the story the 
 sculpture on the grave slab was sup- 
 posed to represent the giant's axle- 
 tree and cart-wheel, a curious ex- 
 ample of the adaptation of local facts 
 to local legend. Hickathrift pro- 
 bably represents some very ancient 
 Anglian hero. His story somewhat 
 resembles that of Grettir in the 
 Saga, and that of " der junge Eiese " 
 in Grimm : and the localisation of 
 it here is a sufficient proof (in addi- 
 tion to the ch.) that this part of 
 the Marshland was reclaimed and 
 colonised at an early period.] 
 The next station is at 
 
 8| m. Walpole St. Feter's, a very 
 pretty village in a grove of trees, 
 possessing one of the finest Perp. 
 churches in Norfolk. Its S. porch 
 is a fine example of this style, in 2 
 stories, enriched with tracery, coats 
 of arms, and nichework, and having 
 the roof elaborately groined. Within, 
 the light open screen-work of wood 
 and the seats with open backs de- 
 serve notice. The chancel, much 
 raised above the nave, is a lanthorn 
 of glass, the space between the 
 windows occupied by large and fine 
 niches. The front of its stall-desks 
 retains its original painting of saints. 
 There is some good stained glass in 
 this church. 
 
 Walpole, whence the ancestors of 
 Sir Eobert "Walpole derived their sur- 
 name, is supposed to record the marsh 
 or pool formed within the sea-dyke 
 (wall) in tliis neighbourhood. 
 
 (About I m. nearer Lynn is Wal- 
 poh St. Andrew's, a smaller Perp. 
 
 ch., but also of great elegance : clere- 
 story windows continuous ; tower of 
 brick. St. Goderic, once a pedlar, 
 afterwards a saint, who wore out 3 
 sets of iron clothes, was a native of 
 Walpole St. Andrew's.) 
 
 11 m. Sutton Bridge Stat. The 
 bridge here across the Nene was 
 erected in 1851 from the designs of 
 E. Stephenson and Mi'. Borthwick, 
 and is contrived to afford a wider 
 waterway for both navigation and 
 drainage than the old bridge. It 
 has 2 clear openings, each of 60 ft. 
 span ; the lower part being of wood, 
 the upper of iron. It cost about 
 18,000Z. The tide rises 22 ft. 
 
 This bridge was the latest im- 
 provement made in connection with 
 the Nene Outfall, a tidal channel, 
 formed in 1880, for a distance of 6| 
 m. as a direct outlet for the passage 
 of the waters of the Nene into the 
 sea. Its width is between 200 and 
 300 ft. ; its depth 24 ft. ; and it 
 affords a safe navigation at all times 
 of the tide for vessels di-awing 6 ft. 
 water, up to Wisbeach, in place of a 
 precarious and circuitous passage by 
 the old channel now blocked up, 
 which was practicable only at spring- 
 tides. The embankment and out- 
 fall were executed under the direc- 
 tions of Messrs. Eennie and Telford, 
 at a cost of 200,000Z. The benefits 
 derived from this undertaking are 
 not limited to the increased facilities 
 of transport by water, the security 
 of a land passage, and the acquisi- 
 tion of many thousand acres from 
 the sea ; besides these, the effect of 
 straightening the course of the Nene 
 has been to deepen the bed of that 
 main outlet by not less than 10 ft. 
 in its course across more than 100.000 
 acres of the Fens, between the Nene 
 and the Welland. Owing to this 
 the drains in the Fen districts, called 
 the North Level and Wisbeach Hun- 
 dred (containing 48,000 acres), have 
 been also deepened and extended, 
 and by this means a complete drain- 
 
304 
 
 Boute 10. — Fen Level. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 age is effected by natural means in a 
 large district previously only ineiS- 
 ciently drained by windmills and 
 even by steam-engines. These fens 
 thus retain nothing of their former 
 character : pestilential sterility is 
 now exchanged for luxuriant fer- 
 tility. The danger of inundation 
 from upland floods and of rupture of 
 dykes along the banks of the Nene 
 is of course materially diminished 
 by the freer passage thus given to 
 the waters. 
 
 " ]\Ir. Telford himself, toward the 
 close of his life, spoke with natural 
 pride of the improvements which he 
 had thus been in so great a measure 
 instrumental in carrying out, and 
 which had so materially promoted 
 the comfort, prosperity, and welfare 
 of a very extensive district. . . . 
 We may mention, as a remarkable 
 effect of the opening of the new out- 
 fall, that in a few hours the lower- 
 ing of the waters was felt throughout 
 the whole of the Fen level. The 
 sluggish and stagnant drains, cuts, 
 and leams in far distant places, 
 began actually to flow ; and the 
 sensation created was such that at 
 Thorney, near Peterborough, some 
 15 m. from the sea, the intelligence 
 penetrated even to the congregation 
 at ch. — for it was Sunday morning 
 —that the waters were running ; 
 when immediately the whole flocked 
 out, parson and all, to see the great 
 sight, and acknowledge the blessings 
 of science." — ^mi7es' 'Engineers,' 
 
 ii. 471. 
 
 At the same time and in connec- 
 tion with the Nene Outfall, the 
 Sutton Washu-ay (some distance lower 
 down than the bridge) was con- 
 structed. 
 
 In order to pass directly from 
 Norfolk into Lincolnshire, it was for- 
 merly necessary to traverse a part 
 of the tidal estuary called the Cross 
 liejs Wash, by a dangerous ford, 
 crossing tlie sands at low water. 
 The Sutton Washway, constructed 
 \>j Tplford, is d magnificent dyke or 
 
 embanked road of earth, nearly 2 
 miles long, which carries the road 
 across the Wash, and excludes the 
 sea from a tract of fertile land, 1500 
 acres in extent (besides which 4000 
 acres more are in progress of re- 
 covery). The salt-marshes outside, 
 though covered by the sea at high 
 tide up to the base of the causeway, 
 yet furnish excellent pasture to 
 many thousand slieep and cattle, 
 which retreat of their own accord 
 before the advancing waters. 
 
 It was in crossing the Wash here 
 (1215) that King John lost a great 
 part of his army, with his baggage 
 and valuables. They were over- 
 taken by the tide, and the King 
 himself only escaped with life though 
 the knowledge of an experienced 
 guide. On the rt. or Lincolnshire 
 bank of the Nene is a building called 
 King John's House, at which he 
 is said to have tarried after his 
 escape. It is, as might be expected, 
 a building of much later date. Close 
 to the bridge over Nene Outfall is 
 the Bridge Inn. The Nene is the 
 boundary here between Norfolk and 
 Lincoln. 
 
 There is rich arable land on the 
 borders of the Nene, and among other 
 crops ivoad is here cultivated. It 
 requires the richest soil that can be 
 founds and three or four crops may 
 be grown in succession, after which 
 there must be a change. The build- 
 ings for the woad manufacture are so 
 constructed as to be shifted from place 
 to place. Tlie woad is dried after 
 being gathered, is crushed to a pulp 
 by teethed wooden rollers, allowed to 
 heat, and then made up into balls and 
 dried. 
 
 From the Sutton Bridge Junct., a 
 short branch line runs southward to 
 
 Wisheach (see Cambridge, • Ete. 
 5). The line follows the Nene, and 
 passes, 1., the churches of West Walton 
 and Walsokeii, both in the Norfolk 
 Marshland; but best visited from 
 I Wisbeach, 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boiite 11. — King's Lynn to Ely. 
 
 305 
 
 The Ch. of All Saints, Walaohen, 
 1 m. from Wisbeacb, is one of the 
 most curious and beautiful in the 
 east of England. It has an E. Eng. 
 tower, with a Norm, porch, deep 
 sunk in rich mouldings. The Norm, 
 interior is distinguished by the 
 varied mouldings of rich frets and 
 zigzags of its low arches, resting 
 on piers round and angular alter- 
 nately. The chancel arch is peculiar 
 and very elaborate ; the shafts divided 
 by many bands. In the chancel is a 
 Norm, piscina. The ch, has a great 
 deal of rich wood screen-work, of 
 Perp. character ; also a very remark- 
 able Ferp. font, ornamented on 7 of its 
 8 sides with sculptured imagery of the 
 Sacraments of the Roman Church. 
 It bears this prayer for the donors, 
 " Remember the souls of J. Honyter 
 and Margaret his wife." 
 
 West Walton Ch., 3 m. from Wis- 
 beacb, is a remarkably fine specimen 
 of E. Eng., a shell left unfinislied, 
 and afterwards completed by Perp. 
 additions. It is now somewhat dila- 
 pidated. It will be apiDreciated, how- 
 ever, by the architect and antiquary. 
 Its noble bell-tower, detached from 
 the ch. on the S. ; the S. porch, of 
 Trans. Norm, date, and unusual ; the 
 W. door, divided by a single shaft ; 
 the clustered nave piers, with detached 
 and banded shafts of marble : the 
 finely wrought capitals and niches 
 in the choir, are all of extraordinary 
 beauty, and exhibit in perfection all 
 the characteristics of the style, the 
 toothed ornament, nail-head, and 
 others. The clerestory forms a 
 beautiful line of arches. There is 
 a good font, of later date than the 
 chm'ch. 
 
 ROUTE 11. 
 
 KING'S LYNN TO ELY BY DOWNHAM 
 MARKET. 
 
 (Branch of Great Eastern Bly.') 
 (The distance (272- m.) is performed 
 in little more than 1 hr.) 
 
 Quitting the stat. at Lynn, the rly. 
 runs for some distance parallel with 
 tlie Eau Brinlh Cut, a remarkable 
 artificial channel made for the river 
 Ouse, at the suggestion and under 
 the direction of Mr. Rennie, in 1817. 
 The old channel of the Ouse (still to 
 be traced W. of the Eau Brink) made 
 an extensive bend of about 5 m. long 
 from Lynn to German's Bridge. Its 
 breadtli was irregular, and it was 
 full of shifting sandbeds. The 
 neighbouring country was often much 
 inundated by the penning up of the 
 water in this imcertain channel ; 
 and no etfectual drainage of the 
 great inland level could be carried 
 out until the obstacles jDresented by 
 the winding course of the Ouse 
 should be removed. Mr. Rennie ac- 
 cordingly cut the "Eau Brink" 
 channel, a direct course for the 
 river, about 3 m. in length, from St. 
 German's to Lynn. It cost 30,000Z., 
 and now forms the bed of the Ouse. 
 Since it was opened, it has deepened 
 itself nearly 15 ft., thus jjromoting a 
 more rapid discharge of water from 
 the drains in the fen country, and 
 saving the cost of many hundred 
 windmills. It was widened in 1826. 
 
 At 6 m. WatUngton Junction, a 
 branch line runs W. to Wisbeacb (10 
 m.). [There are stats, at Middle 
 Drove, Smeeth Bead, and Emneth. 
 This line runs . through the Marsh-. 
 
306 
 
 Route 11. — Downliam Market — Littleport. Sect. III. 
 
 land, the southern border of wliich 
 is the Podike. (For a notice of this 
 district, see Rte. 10, Smedh Road 
 stat. borders the " Smeeth " or plain 
 of the Tilneys; for its story see 
 Tilney All Saints, lite. 10.) At Em- 
 neth is a good Ch., much out of re- 
 pair. The chancel has low Norm. 
 arches, and a triplet (lancet) E. win- 
 dow. There are heavy Elizabethan 
 tombs, with effigies, for the Hewars 
 family.] 
 
 8^ m. Stoio Bardolph Stat. Here 
 is a small Ch., restored in 1850 (the 
 S. side is entirely new). There is 
 much enrichment and modern deco- 
 ration, but nothing of sufficient in- 
 terest to detain the toui'ist. Stow 
 Hall was the seat of Sir Thomas 
 Hare, Bart., but has been entirely 
 taken down. Wallington Hall, an 
 old house, in a large park (which 
 adjoins Stow, but is in a separate 
 parish, without a ch.), is occuj^ied by 
 Major Marcon. 
 
 [The Ch. of Wimhotsham, 1 m. S. 
 of Stow, is Norm, with E. Eug. and 
 Perp. additions, all of interest. There 
 are very good Norm, portals N. and 
 S. of the nave, which has a flat 
 wooden ceiling, well panelled. The 
 ch. was restored in 1854, and the 
 chancel and apse entirely rebuilt.] 
 
 11 f m. Downham Market Stat. 
 This is a neat and clean market 
 town (^Inns : Crown, Market-place ; 
 Castle, High-street; pop. of parish, 
 3133), in which 3 large fairs for 
 horses, cattle, &c., are held yearly in 
 March, May, and November; but 
 Downham contains little to interest 
 the stranger. It stands on the E. 
 side of the (so-called) vale of the 
 Ouse, over which it commands a 
 fine view. The Ch. was restored in 
 1855, and much was done by a Mr. 
 Lawrie, "builder and stonemason," 
 whose hand is heavy throughout 
 many neighbouring churches. Some 
 large American nurseries, belonging 
 
 to Mr. r>ird, near the stat., are 
 pleasant and worth a visit. 
 
 13i m. Denver Stat. The ch. has 
 E. Eng. portions. 
 
 The manor-house of Easthall in 
 this parish is partly Tudor, and 
 cm'ious. The original portion is the 
 E. end, which is of red brick, with 
 moulded enrichments. It was built 
 by a branch of the Willoughliy 
 family, long resident here. 
 
 161 m. Hilgarj Fen Stat. The 
 stat. is 3^ m. from the village of 
 Hilgay, which lies rt. The Ch. of All 
 Saints is Dec. and Perp. Phineas 
 Fletcher, author of the 'Purple Is- 
 land,' was rector here from 1621 to 
 the beginning of the Civil War. 6000 
 acres of the parish are fen. The Old 
 Hall ( — Jones, Esq.) once belonged 
 to the Abbot of Eanisay, and at one 
 time to G. W. Manby, Esq., inventor 
 of the apparatus for saving life from 
 shipwreck. 
 
 The rly. soon crosses the Ouse and 
 enters Cambridgeshire, reaching at 
 
 21 1 m. Littleport Stat. The tower 
 of Littleport Ch., Perp., of good de- 
 sign, with a turret on the S. side, is 
 consjjicuous throughout this part of 
 the fen district, and served anciently 
 as a guide and beacon. The Ch. it- 
 self is late Perp., except the N.W. 
 pier and arch, which are Dec. An 
 additional aisle was added in 1857. 
 There seems to have been a passage 
 (now partly closed) through the 
 tower (not commimicating with the 
 ch.), used probably before the di-ain- 
 age of the fens as a means of passing 
 from one part of the village to 
 another. (At Walpole St. Peter in 
 the Marshland, N. of AYisbeach, 
 there is a public road thi-ough a 
 groined passage, below the chancel 
 of the ch.) 
 
 Part of the old parish of Littleport 
 is now attached to the ecclesiastical 
 district of St. John, Little Ouse. A 
 ch. of E. Eng. character has been 
 
Norfolk. Boiite 12. — Norwich to Ely — Attlehorongli. 
 
 307 
 
 built for this district at tlie sole ex- 
 pense of tlie late Canon Sparke. 
 Nearly the whole of Littleport parish 
 is fen land. It contains 16,13G acres, 
 only 800 of which rise above the fen 
 level. 
 
 From Littleport, traversing the 
 fen, the line runs to 
 
 27| m. Ely Stat. 
 Casibridge, Ete. 3.) 
 
 (For Ely, see 
 
 EOUTE 12. 
 
 NORWICH TO ELY BY ATTLE- 
 BOROUGH AND THETFORD. 
 
 (London, Cambridge, and Norwich 
 Idne.') 
 
 Trains leave Norwich from the 
 Victoria Stat. 
 
 For tiiis line, from Norwich to, IO5 
 m., Wymondham Junct., see Rte. 6. 
 
 There is nothing which calls for 
 special notice until the train reaches 
 
 16 m. Attlehorough Stat. (Near 
 the station, a short distance from tlie 
 village, is a new inn (Canham's), 
 which is no bad resting-place. Close 
 to it is a "monument,"' recording the 
 peace of 1856, and marking the dis- 
 tances to various towns and villages.) 
 
 Attlehorough is one of the few 
 places in Norfolk of which the ter- 
 mination (borough, burh) indicates 
 that the site was at a very early 
 period rendered defensible. (" The 
 strict meaning of burh appears to be 
 fortified place, or stronghold. It can 
 therefore be applied to a single house 
 or castle, as well as to a town." — 
 Kemble.) A mythical King Atla, or 
 Atling (Brame's MS., see post', has 
 been connected witb it ; but of tho 
 early history of Attlehorough nothing 
 is known with certainty. (The first 
 portion of the name appears no doubt 
 in Attlebridge on the Wensum, N.W. 
 of Norwich.) The place figures 
 in the legendary history of St. 
 Edmimd ; who, after landing near 
 Hunstanton (see Ete. 9) is said to 
 have been brought to this place, 
 where he remained for a wliole 
 year, in which time he learnt the 
 Psalter by heart. That part of 
 the parish in which the present eh. 
 and village stands came, very soon 
 after the Conquest, into the hands 
 of the Mortimers, who retained it 
 until the beginning of the 15th 
 centy., when it passed by marriage 
 to the Eatcliffs, afterwards Earls of 
 Sussex. The Church is fine and in- 
 teresting, well deserving notice. It 
 is dedicated in honour of the As- 
 sumption of the Virgin, and now 
 consists of nave, aisles, and tower 
 — once central. The choir, which 
 formed the ch. of a college of the 
 Holy Cross, established by Sir Eo- 
 bert Mortimer, before 1387, and 
 completed about 1405, in accordance 
 with his will, has entirely disap- 
 peared; having been pulled down 
 (so says Blomfield, quoting the parish 
 register) by Eobert, Earl of Sussex, 
 temp. Hen. VIII., who also destroyed 
 " many fair marble gravestones of 
 his ancestors, with monuments of 
 brass upon them, and carried them, 
 with other fair good pavement, and 
 laid them for floors in his hall, 
 kitchen, and larder-house. . . . And 
 besides this, [he got 14 crosses, and 
 
308 Boide 12. — Attlehorough Church — Biiclcenham. Sect. III. 
 
 as much town (?) plate as was then 
 worth abore 100/. from the church." 
 The nave (Early Perp.) was re- 
 built at the same time as the choir. 
 It is very lofty, with clerestory, and 
 aisle windows (set in arches of con- 
 Btruction), the tracery of which is 
 flowing. There is a fine W. window, 
 with flowing tracery, in which are 
 some fragments of stained glass col- 
 lected from other parts of the ch. The 
 simple and well-designed open roof 
 deserves notice. The carved pulpit, 
 dating from the early part of the last 
 century, was brought here from a 
 London ch. In the central aisle is 
 the tomb slab of " the famous Captain 
 John Gibbs," who, in the reign of 
 Charles II., for a wager of 500Z., drove 
 " his light chaise and four horses up 
 and down the deepest place of the 
 Devil's Ditch, on Newmarket Heath." 
 The central tower is Norm., with 
 arches ornamented with the cable 
 moulding, and a double triforial 
 arcade above. At the W. end of the 
 nave is the fine rood-screen, removed 
 from its proper place in 1845. It 
 extended across nave and aisles, and 
 is of late Perp. character. On either 
 side of the central doors are 3 lofty 
 closed panels with figures, nearly 
 obliterated; and on another is a 
 cross with the nails and crown of 
 thorns, and the inscription, " Quanto 
 pertulit pro peccatis nostris. Si com- 
 pateris, consequaberis." Above runs 
 a nearly obliterated record of the 
 doners — " pro . . d. . Many et Isabella 
 ux . . ej." There are shields in the 
 canopy ; and the inscription above, 
 " Put thy trust in God with all thyn 
 heart, and leane not unto thine owne 
 wytt," is a later addition. (Portions, 
 of this screen seem to be of the same 
 date as the wooden canopy (now 
 destroyed) of a cross in the ch.-yd., 
 set up in 1632 by "John Forbie, 
 Clerk," under the direction of Bp. 
 Corbett. This cross is described in 
 the register quoted by Blomfield. 
 It had inscriptions resembling those 
 on the screen.) Outside tlio ch., re- 
 
 mark the fine composition of the 
 N. porch with its parvise chamber. 
 Crowning it is a figure of the Sa- 
 viour ; at the angles, emblems of 
 the Evangelists ; and there are many 
 niches. 
 
 The collegiate buildings stood 
 below the N.W. corner of the ch.-yd. 
 There are no remains. Besides the 
 l^rincipal or " Mortimer's " manor, 
 there were others in Attlehorough, 
 all of which held of the Warepound 
 or Frowick Court, kept on Whitsun- 
 day under a tree in the village street. 
 It was called the " Scolding Court," 
 and unless it was over before sun- 
 rise, the whole rents of the court were 
 forfeited for that year. 
 
 [The archaeologist may visit from 
 Attlehorough New Buchenham (4 m. 
 S.E.). On his way (1 m.), he will 
 cross Bunn's Bank, " a fine bank 
 and ditch which extended across 
 the elevated ground between marshy 
 tracts for nearly 3 m." — Harrod. Its 
 name is probably, as Mr, Harrod 
 suggests, a corruption of Bunder: 
 " boundary " bank ; and it is still, 
 for some distance, the boundary be- 
 tween Attlehorough and Buckenham. 
 It is no doubt a very early division 
 bank, with its steep side toward 
 Attlehorough. At Old Buckenham 
 (3 m.) are very scanty traces of an 
 Augustinian priory, founded, before 
 1156, by AVilliam d'Albini, on the 
 site of a castle, which was destroyed, 
 and the materials no doubt used in 
 building the priory. The castle itself 
 stood within on oblong enclosure, 
 squared at the angles, with a bank 
 and ditch still remaining. Here was 
 the garden of the priory. Mr. Harrod 
 (who has carefully examined and 
 described Old and New Buckenham) 
 regards this enclosure as the site of 
 a small Roman camp, within which 
 the Norm, castle was built. When this 
 was pulled down, D'Albini removed 
 his stronghold to Neio Buckenham (1 
 m, beyond). Here it was built in con- 
 nection with (and within the defences 
 
KoRFOLK. JRoute 12. — Qiiiddenhmn — Kenninghatt. 
 
 m 
 
 of) 2 very remarkable earthworks, 
 one round, the other oblong, resem- 
 bling those at Castle Acre, Castle 
 Rising, and elsewhere. These earth- 
 works still remain, covered with tall 
 trees ; and, regarding them as British, 
 Mr. Harrod adds that " in the exist- 
 ence of this magnificent work we may 
 probably account for the Roman 
 station at Old Buckenham." Of the 
 Norman castle the only relic is a low 
 circular structure, probably the dun- 
 geon, within tlie great circular earth- 
 work. Outside the mounds is a barn, 
 which the same diligent explorer has 
 shown to be the Norm, chapel of St. 
 Mary, still nearly perfect, and cased 
 with brick. The castle descended 
 from the Albinis to the Tates- 
 halls, and afterwards to the Cliftons 
 and Knevets. It was demolished 
 before 1649, and stood a siege temp. 
 Hen. III. (circ. 1263), when Sir 
 Robert Tateshall, a^" King's man," 
 was attacked by Sir Henry Hastings, 
 on the side of the Barons. The Ch. 
 of New Buckenham is Perp., and 
 deserves notice. In the neighbour- 
 hood are some tumuli. 
 
 In the old vicarage ot Belthorpe, 
 1 m. N. of Attleborough, this in- 
 scription was placed over the "par- 
 lour" chimney: — 
 
 " AH you that sitt by thys fire warmyng 
 Pray for the sowle of Sir Jhon Downyng."] 
 
 Leaving Attleborough, the next 
 stat. is 
 
 19| m. Eccles Boad. The country 
 is flat, with some heath, and patches 
 of plantation. Harghavi Hall, be- 
 tween the stations, is the seat of Sir 
 Thomas Becon, Bart. 
 
 22f m. Harling Road Stat. The 
 fine Ch. of East Harling is seen 1. 
 about i m. from the stat. It is 
 chiefly Perp. The tower and spire 
 were partly rebuilt in 1449 ; and in 
 the Harling Chapel is an altar-tomb 
 with effigies of Sir Robert Harling 
 (killed in the defence of Paris, 1435) 
 and wife. The ch. contains other 
 
 monuments (including a stately tomb 
 with effigies of Sir Thomas Level, 
 died 1604, and wife) ; and there are 
 remains of finely carved screens. 
 At West Harling, about 1 m. E., is 
 the Hall (Lord Colborno), a large 
 brick mansion in a park upon the 
 Thet. In the Ch. are 3 brasses — Ralf 
 Fuloflove, rector, 1479 ; William 
 Bardewell and wife, 1490 ; and an- 
 other William Bardewell and wife, 
 1508 (see JBardwell, Suffolk, Rte. 
 3). The family possessed a manor 
 called " Bardewell's " in W. Harling. 
 Bardewell Hall was pulled down in 
 1725. 
 
 [From Harling Road Stat, may be 
 visited Quiddenham Ch. (31 m.) and 
 Kenninghall (1 m. beyond ) . Quidden- 
 ham Ch. (restored) has a tower round 
 below, octangular in its upper stage, 
 and capped by a spire. The lower 
 power of the tower seems Norm., and 
 there is a very fine Norm. S. door. 
 The rest of the ch. is early Perp. 
 Adjoining is Quiddenham Hall i^Axl 
 of Albemarle), a handsome modern 
 brick building. This manor was for 
 many centuries the chief seat of the 
 Hollands. It was purchased by the 
 Keppels in 1762. Close to Quidden- 
 ham Park, but 1 m. from the ch., is 
 Kenninghall, a small town with a 
 considerable market for cattle. Here 
 also is a large brick and tile manu- 
 factory. 
 
 The name Kenninghall is a cor- 
 ruption of King's hall, from an 
 ancient royal seat and castle here. 
 Of it the remains are a foss and 4 
 moimds. The Mowbrays and How- 
 ards jDossessed the castle, and erected 
 on its site East Hall, and after- 
 wards, 'near it, in the reign of Henry 
 VIII., Kenninghall Palace (built in 
 the form of an H), where, after the 
 attainder of Thomas, third Duke of 
 Norfolk, the Princesses Mary and 
 Elizabeth both resided. Queen Mary 
 fled hither for refuge at the com- 
 mencement of her reign, but removed 
 shortly to Framlingham. Afterwards 
 
310 
 
 Boute 12. — TJietford: Frim-y. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 it was restored, find continued to 1x3 
 tlic chief Norfolk seat of the Howards, 
 until pulled down, circ. 1G50. The 
 materials of the palace may still be 
 traced in many of the neighbouring 
 houses. The eh. tower seems to have 
 been built by the Howards. 
 
 IJ m, N. of Kenninghall is Ban- 
 ham Gh., containing a wooden cross- 
 legged effigy of Sir Hugh Bardolph 
 (d.l203).] 
 
 Leaving the Harling Koad Stat., 
 the rly. crosses wide open heaths, 
 nearly level, over which runs in a 
 N.W. direction the ancient road 
 called the "Peddar's Way," again 
 conspicuous beyond Castle Acre. All 
 this district abounds in Koman and 
 British remains ; and romance, or a 
 romantic history constructed from 
 doubtful material by Brame, a monk 
 of Thetford (his MS. is in the library 
 of C. C. College, Cambridge), placed 
 on these heaths a great battle be- 
 tween a certain Waldeus, "King of 
 Thetford," and other kings named 
 Koud and Knoud, both of whom were 
 killed ; and Boudham was so called 
 as a memorial of Koud. (The whole 
 story will be found in Martin's ' His- 
 tory of Tlietford.' In its present 
 shape it is, of course, a romance.) 
 
 Prom the next Stat., Boudham 
 Junction, a short branch line runs 
 by Wretham and Stow-Bedon to 
 AVatton. (See after TJietford for a 
 notice of it.) At 
 
 30 J m. Thetford Stat, is reached. 
 
 Close to the stat. are the remains 
 of a Priory, first founded in 1104 by 
 lloger Bigod, for Cluniac monks, on 
 the Suffolk side of the river. But in 
 1107, shortly before the death of the 
 founder, the site was removed to a 
 more open space on the Norfolk 
 side. This is the position it now 
 occupies. The remains are scanty, 
 witliout much architectural interest, 
 and are hardly pictm-esque ; but the 
 ground plan of the ch. and the founda- 
 
 tions of some of the monastic buildings 
 were carefully traced (and excavated) 
 by Mr. Harrod, in 1849 (see his 
 ' Castles and Convents of Norfolk ') ; 
 and with his description in liaud, the 
 antiquary will find his account in a 
 visit to these ruins — still " reverend," 
 although the hammer clang of a 
 neighbonring irou-foundry (itself 
 occupying the site of St. Nicholas 
 Ch.) will hardly form the most agree- 
 able accompaniment to his medita- 
 tions. The Perp. gateway remains, 
 roofless, but little altered. Of the 
 Ch., the chief fragment is one of 
 the piers of tlie central tower, of late 
 Norm, character. The Norm. ch. 
 consisted of nave, transepts with 
 apsidal chapels, and an apsidal choir. 
 In the 13th centy., owing, as it was 
 said, to the direct interposition of 
 the Virgin herself, the N. aisle of the 
 choir was enlarged and lengthened, 
 so as to form g, Lady chapel ; and 
 the choir itself was extended east- 
 ward parallel with this aisle. The 
 image of the Virgin here was much 
 resorted to, and was a serious rival 
 to our Lady of Woolpit, in Suffolk. 
 Foundations of the refectory may be 
 traced on the S. side of the cloister, 
 S. of the nave. The body of the 
 founder was not (as has usually beeu 
 asserted) buried here, but was in- 
 terred at Norwich by Bp. Herbert. 
 From the Bigods the patronage of 
 the priory passed to the Mowbrays, 
 and from them to the Howards. 
 Here was buried Thomas Howard, 
 2nd Duke of Norfolk, victor at 
 Flodden Field. On the Dissolu- 
 tion, tlie site and possessions were 
 granted to the Duke of Norfolk, who 
 removed the cotfins and monuments 
 of some of his family from Thetford 
 to Framlingham (see Suffolk, Ete. 
 5) ; and the building was then aban- 
 doned to ruui and decay. 
 
 The town of Thetford (Inn : Bell ; 
 Pop. 4209) lies on both banks of 
 the Lesser Ouse, a clear bright 
 stream, near the point at which 
 the Thet Kiver (from which the 
 
iCoRFOLK. itoute 12. — Tlietford : History ; CJiiirches. 311 
 
 town is named, theote A.-S. = a 
 broken stream, a waterfall) falls 
 iuto it. The greater part of the 
 town is on the N. (rt.) bank, and 
 in Norfolk ; bnt one parish, St. 
 Marys, is in Suffolk. Thetford is 
 no doubt (us is sufficiently proved 
 by the extraordinary castle mounds, 
 see 2)<^si) one of the most ancient 
 and, in early periods, one of the 
 most important settlements in the 
 eastern counties. It was a chief 
 residence of the East Anglian kings 
 (St. Edmund is said to have been 
 besieged here by the Danes) ; and 
 during the attack on East Anglia by 
 Swend (Sweyne, a.d. 1004), Thetford 
 and Norwich were sought by the 
 Danes as the most considerable towns 
 in the district. The defender of 
 East Anglia was Ulfcytel, perhaps 
 the stoutest champion of whom Eng- 
 land could then boast. He could not 
 prevent the bm-ning of Norwich, after 
 wliich a peace was apparently made 
 with the invaders ; but the Danes 
 broke the peace, marched on Thet- 
 ford, plundered and burnt the town. 
 They Avere closely followed by Ulf- 
 cytel, who came upon them with 
 a comparatively small force when 
 they were hardly clear of the burn- 
 ing town. A fierce battle followed, 
 the worst " hand play," as the Danes 
 said, they had ever met with in 
 England. Many of the noblest Eng- 
 lish fell, but the Danes got back to 
 their ships in the Yare. Thetford 
 was again burnt in 1010, after the 
 battle of Ulfcytel with the Danes 
 at Kingmere (see Suffolk, Ete. 1). 
 *' This second burning of Thetford . . . 
 illustrates, like so many other cases 
 in these wars, the ease with which, 
 when houses were almost wholly built 
 of wood, a town was destroyed, and 
 again rebuilt." — Freeman s ' Norman 
 Conquest,' i. 380. Thetford was the 
 place of the East Anglian see from 
 1075 to 1094 (see Elmliam, Etc. 8), 
 when Herbert Losinga removed the 
 see finally to Norwich. It possessed a 
 mint from the time of the early Saxon 
 
 kings down to the reign of Henry II. ; 
 and the Lent Assizes for Norfolk were 
 held in its Guildhall down to 1833. 
 In the reign of Edward III., Thet- 
 ford is said to have contained 20 
 churches, chiefly on the 1. bank of 
 the Ouse, 24 main streets, 5 market- 
 l^laces, and 8 monasteries. At present 
 it is little more than a large village, 
 with one important iron-foundry 
 (Burrell's), where agricultural imple- 
 ments are made ; some tan-yards, and 
 leather factories. The neighbour- 
 hood is pleasant, with fine trees, con- 
 trasting agreeably with the heaths 
 that stretch away toward the Cam- 
 bridgeshire border. On the bank of 
 the Ouse is a very pretty walk, where 
 the artist may find some good studies 
 of trees and water. 
 
 The existing Churches are all Perp., 
 and of little interest, St. Peters, 
 called the Black Church, from the 
 colour of its flint walls (the tower 
 was rebuilt in 1789), and St. Cuth- 
 bert's, are in Norfolk. St. Mary the 
 Less is on the Suffolk side. The 
 destroyed Ch. of St. Etheldreda 
 jDossessed the shift of that saint 
 (the patroness of Ely) — a sovereign 
 remedy against toothache and sore 
 throat. Of the monastic houses, be- 
 sides the priory, there are some 
 scanty remains, behind the grammar 
 school, of the Friary (a house of 
 Dominicans, established about 1328 
 on the site occupied by the Cluniacs 
 before they removed to the priory 
 on the Norfolk side of the river ; see 
 ante) ; and, higher up the stream, at 
 the Place Farm, of a Benedictine 
 nunnerij, founded, it is said, to com- 
 memorate the battle in which King 
 Edmund was here defeated by the 
 Danes. (May there not be some 
 confusion with the battle between 
 Ulfcytel and Swend ? (see ante). 
 The nunnery may have been founded 
 on the field of the fight — like the 
 Minster at Assandun (Essex, Ete. 
 5), and Battle Abbey). The site of 
 the nunnery v.-us granted by Hen. 
 VIII. to Sir Eichard Fulmerston, 
 
Si2 
 
 Boide l2.~Thetford : School ; Mount. ^ect. Ill 
 
 who made tbo monastic buildings liis 
 dwelling-place, and converted the 
 ch. into "lodgings and convenient 
 rooms." A long gallery was formerly 
 shown here, in which (1569) the 
 young heir of the Dacres, Lords of 
 Gilsland and Greystock, was killed 
 by a fall from a wooden horse. He 
 liad been placed under the care of 
 Sir Kichard Fulmerston by the Duke 
 of Norfolk, his guardian. Spots of 
 blood were shown on the floor. Sir 
 Kichard's ghost troubled the gallery, 
 and " made night hideous " in various 
 parts of Thetford — since, without the 
 slightest truth, it was asserted that 
 he had played the part of the wicked 
 uncle, and, for the sake of lands (to 
 which he was never in any degree 
 entitled) had " taken a pin " out of 
 the " vaulting horse," and so caused 
 young Dacre's death. The remains of 
 the nunnery are mere masses of flint 
 wall. Their position will be seen 
 from the river bank beyond an iron 
 l)ridge, a little below the Bell Inn. 
 Here large elder-bushes hang pic- 
 turesquely over the water. 
 
 Near St. Mary's Ch. is the Free 
 Grammar School, founded in accord- 
 ance with the will of Sir Kichard 
 Fulmerston, in 1566. But more 
 interesting than any other traces of 
 the former importance of Thetford 
 is the Mount, or Castle Hill (at the 
 end of the town, farthest from the 
 rly. — turn up between the Bell Inn 
 and the " Black " Ch.). The earth- 
 works here (all of chalk, the natural 
 soil) are probably the largest and 
 most important in England. There 
 is an enormous mound, 100 ft. high, 
 and 1000 ft, in circumference, en- 
 closed by a double rampart 20 ft. 
 high, and surrounded by an outer 
 ditch. In general design. Castle 
 Rising and Castle Acre may be com- 
 pared. But the Thetford works far 
 exceed them in mass and strength. 
 Their age it is impossible to decide 
 with certainty. Thetford has been 
 regarded as the site of the Roman 
 Sitomagus, itself no doubt occupying 
 
 the site of a more ancient British 
 stronghold. The mound may very 
 well be British ; whilst some of the 
 encircling defences may be of Roman, 
 or later, origin. From the vast mound 
 (on which it does not ajDpear that a 
 Norman castle was ever constructed, 
 though it possibly served as the 
 " motte " of an earlier English fast- 
 ness) a wide view is commanded over 
 the heaths toward Bury and New- 
 market. The straggling town i3 
 shut in by very fine trees, which grow 
 all round the castle, and, although 
 beautiful in themselves, hide the 
 course of the enormous dykes. 
 
 Chief Justice Wright, — the pre- 
 sident at the trial of the 7 bishops, — 
 who died in Newgate, and was buried 
 with felons, was a native of Tlietford. 
 Thos. Paine, the infamous author of 
 ' The Age of Reason,' &c., was born 
 here, 1737, in a house still standing 
 in White Hart-street. His father 
 was a Quaker staymaker. 
 
 On the estate of Canons, so named 
 from a house of Canons of the Holy 
 Sepulchre, founded by William of 4| 
 Warrene, soon after 1139, is a warren 
 famous for its " silver grey " rabbits, 
 whose fur is valuable. They are sent 
 hence to London in great quantities. 
 
 [For the road (12 m.) from Thet- 
 ford to^Bury St. Edmund's, see Suf- 
 folk, Rte. 3. 
 
 The rly. from Thetford to Watton 
 runs first to Boudham Junction (see 
 ante). The first stat. is at Wretham 
 (serving for the parishes of East and 
 West Wretham). Two large meres 
 were drained here; West Wretham 
 Mere in 1851, and the Great Mere in 
 1856. In both of these meres re- 
 mains of " lake dwellings " on piles 
 were found. In the West Mere were 
 8 ft. of mud ; in the Great Mere, 20 
 ft. Hundreds of bones were dis- 
 coved, consisting almost entirely of 
 red deer, and the now extinct Bos 
 lonijifrons. There were also skulls 
 of goat and of a boar or pig ; besides 
 comparatively recent specimens of 
 
Norfolk. 
 
 Boute 12. — Brandon — Weeting, 
 
 313 
 
 the European fresh- water tortoise 
 {Enys lutaria). Prof. Newtou read 
 a paper recording these discoveries 
 before the Cambridge Philosophical 
 Society in 1662. 
 
 Of E. Wretham, Fabyan records 
 that, in 1418, "the Parson ofWrot- 
 ham in Norfolk, which long time 
 had hannted Newmarket Heath, and 
 there robbed and spoyled many . . . 
 was with his concubine brought into 
 Newgate, where lastly he dyed." 
 
 There is a stat. at Stow-Bedon, 
 before reaching Watton (see Rte. 
 6). There are 6 trains daily be- 
 tween Thetford and Watton, taking 
 a little more than half-an-hoiur in the 
 transit.] 
 
 (The Little 0«se, or Brandon River, 
 from its source at Lopham, near Diss, 
 to the point where it falls into the 
 Great Ouse, S. of Downham Market, 
 forms the boundary between Suffolk 
 and Norfolk. The Waveney, which 
 rises also at Lopham, flows eastward, 
 and also forms the boundary between 
 the counties throughout its course.) 
 
 Leaving Thetford, 1., seen beyond 
 the Ouse, in Suffolk, is Santon Down- 
 ham (Lord William Paulet). The 
 Church, situated very picturesquely, 
 in a beautifully kept cli.-yd., de- 
 serves notice. The chancel is E. 
 Eng. ; the nave Norm., with good 
 doorways. Over the S. door is a 
 curious piece of sculpture. There 
 are good open seats, and a very fine 
 Dec. screen. The Perp. tower has a 
 long inscription running round just 
 above the base moulding. 
 
 The country between Thetford and 
 Brandon, and ranging thence S. to 
 Mildenhall, was at the beginning of 
 the present centy. held to be the 
 head-quarters of the Bustard in 
 Norfolk and Suffolk. (See Introd., 
 ' East Anglia,' for some remarks on 
 the habits and extinction of the 
 bustard in these counties.) 
 
 37f m. Brandon Stat. This is a 
 market-town (Inns: Earn, George), 
 celebrated for the warrens in its 
 
 [Eisex, d'c] 
 
 neighbourhood, one of which is said 
 to send 40,000 rabbits annually to 
 London. There was formerly a large 
 manufactory here of gun flints, formed 
 by chipping flint stones according to 
 the line of cleavage. The "flint- 
 nappers " still obtain some employ- 
 ment in squaring flints for masonry. 
 Shadwell, the poet (the MacFlecnoe 
 of Dryden), was born, in 1740, at 
 Santon Hall, near Weeting, 2 m. N. 
 of Brandon. 
 
 Weeting Hall is the residence of 
 William Angerstein, Esq., whose 
 grandfather made the noble collec- 
 tion of paintings which forms the 
 nucleus of our National Gallery. 
 Here is a fine gallery of pictures, 
 among them Sir Joshua Reynolds's 
 famous picture of Garrick between 
 Tragedy and Comedy. In the park 
 are the ruins of the Ch. of St. 
 Mary. 
 
 [Near Weeting is a mound and 
 ditch several miles long called Fen- 
 dyke, and not far from it a collection 
 of pits, within an oblong embankment, 
 suj^posed to have been a British 
 village, and called Grimse Graves. 
 The origin of the name is unknown ; 
 but it occurs in many parts of Eng - 
 land fas at the primitive settlement 
 of Grimspound, on Dartmoor), and 
 always in connection with certain 
 works, as dykes and trenches, which 
 " were known to our ancestors as 
 having served the purposes of 
 boundary lines." The name of the 
 hundred is " Grimshoe,"' and the 
 court was formerly held at a large 
 " howe," or tumulus, at the E. end of 
 the "graves." {Grima, A.-S. = the 
 grim or evil one, has been jaroposed 
 as the etymon of the word, which 
 would thus be equivalent to the 
 " Devil's Dykes," " Devil's Bridges," 
 &c., names so constantly given to 
 erections of unknown age.) Grimes 
 Graves lie somewhat to the rt. of a 
 very ancient road, which ran from 
 Brandon to S waff ham, and thence 
 onward to Castle Acre and Walsing- 
 
 r 
 
314 
 
 Houte 12. — Northwold — LaJcenheath. 
 
 Sect. III. 
 
 liam. it was sometimes called the 
 " Pilgrims' Road," ami " Walsingliam 
 Way," but it is, no doubt, of much 
 earlier date than the rise of the 
 great shrine at Walsingham. Ick- 
 hurgh, where Roman remains have 
 been found, and which lies on this 
 road, 6 m. N. of Brandon, must be 
 classed with the Suffolk Ickling- 
 hams, and Ixworths, and probably 
 indicates by its name that the road 
 was (if of British origin) used as a 
 vicinal way connected with the Ick- 
 neild. 
 
 About 6 m. N. of Weeting is North- 
 ivold, where the Ch. (Dec.) con- 
 tains a remarkable Easter Sepulchre 
 (figured in the Vetusta Monumentci). 
 The ch. ranges from E. Eng. to 
 Perp. The .sepulchre, on the N. 
 side of the chancel, is partly hol- 
 lowed in the wall, and partly jjro- 
 jects from it. Below, in front of the 
 altar-tomb, are 4 sleeping soldiers, 
 the guardians of the sepulchre (as 
 in Lincoln Cathedral); the upper 
 part is a mass of niches and taber- 
 nacle work. The whole is 12 ft. 
 high and 9 ft. long, much larger 
 than the Lincoln or Heckington (in 
 Lincolnshire) examples. The dates 
 of these 3 sepulchres, the most re- 
 remarkable in the county, are Lin- 
 coln, circ. 1850 ; Heckington, circ. 
 1380; Northwold, circ. 14S0. All 
 are later than the Crusades, and the 
 greater development and enrichment 
 of the Easter sepulchre was perhaps 
 (like the foundation of churches in 
 imitation of that of the Holy Sepul- 
 chre) due in some measure to Eastern 
 warfare and pilgrimage. 
 
 The rectory of Northwold formerly 
 rejoiced in a remarkable piece of 
 stained glass in the "parlour" window, 
 representing a rector sitting alone 
 before a well covered table, with 
 these words below — " Gaudere et 
 epulari oportet."] 
 
 The country between Thetford and 
 Brandon, and that stretching for 
 some distance N. and S., is generally 
 
 known as the district of the "brecks," 
 i.e. ground which at some time or 
 other has been " broken up " by the 
 plough. Much of the " breck " is 
 sheep-walk ; the rest forms wide 
 oi:)en fields of light land, mixed with 
 some of the wildest and most ex- 
 tensive tracts in the county, of heath, 
 fir plantation, and rabbit warren. 
 It is the " Champion and fieldy part 
 of Norfolk" which Sir Thomas 
 Browne described as the resort of 
 the crane, and which was the last 
 corner in which the bustard lingered. 
 It is now the favourite haunt of the 
 Norfolk plover — the great plover — • 
 or stone curlew (JEdicnemus crepi- 
 tans). This bird is a summer 
 visitant, and, although diminishing, 
 is still very characteristic of the 
 district. The " subscription heron 
 hawks " formerly kept at Didlington 
 Hall, used to take the stone curlew 
 in numbers, and the birds have been 
 known to take refuge in a rabbit's 
 hole in order to escape capture. 
 
 Traversing, from Brandon, a sandy 
 district, much covered with heath 
 and fir woods, the rly. passes through 
 a corner of Sulfolk, and reaches the 
 next stat. at 
 
 41^ m. Ldkenlieath. The soil here 
 is light and sandy. In 1688 a deluge 
 of sand, drifted by the wind, covered 
 the fields to the S. of the place, even 
 impeding the navigation of the river, 
 and extending to Santon Downham. 
 The Ch. at Lakenheath, which is 
 chiefly Norm, and Dec, has a very 
 fine E. Eng. font, on a central stem 
 with detached shafts, thebowl covered 
 with leaf ornament. There is also 
 some good woodwork — chancel stalls, 
 nave seats, and timber roof. 
 
 4Gf m. Mildenhall Road Stat. 
 
 The town of Mildenhall lies 8 m. 
 S. of the stat. (But the best way of 
 reaching Mildenhall is either by 
 Newmarket at 9 m. distance, where 
 flys may be procured ; or from Ken- 
 net Stat. (4 m. distant), where a fly 
 
Kor.FOLK. 
 
 Houte 12. — MildenliaU. 
 
 315 
 
 from the Bell Inn, Mildenhall, may 
 be ordered to meet the traveller;. 
 The Church, dedicated to the Blessed 
 Yirgin, is large, and of consider- 
 able interest; the chancel principally 
 E. Eng., the nave Perp. The E. 
 window, of 7 lights, with singular 
 tracery, has E. Eng. banded shafts, 
 of Pm-beck marble. The chancel 
 arch is fine and lofty E. Eng., with 
 good moiddings and tooth ornament. 
 On the N. side of the chancel is a 
 small chapel or sacristy (?) of E. Eng. 
 date, with an eastern triplet, 2 lancets, 
 N., and a stone roof of 2 bays. The 
 roofs of nave and aisles deserve 
 especial notice. They "are richly 
 and elaborately carved, angels with 
 outspread wings forming the hammer- 
 beams. There are various Scripture 
 subjects in the spandrels, and figures 
 of saints for the pendent posts. The 
 S. aisle roof has the swan and ante- 
 lope, the badges of Henry V." In 
 the N. aisle is a tomb to Sir Henry 
 North and lady, 1620. The font is 
 Perp., with a shield of arms, and on 
 the same plinth is a large plain altar- 
 tomb, with the same coat. " There 
 is an original ringer's loft, supported 
 by a fan tracery vault. . . . The N. 
 porch is very fine and large, with a 
 groined roof of stone, and a room 
 over it, the doorway of which has 
 the Annunciation carved in the 
 spandrels ; the exterior of this, and 
 of the N. aisle, is good and highly 
 enriched Perp., with flint and stone 
 panelling, and niches in the but- 
 tresses. . . . The Market Cross is a 
 
 good Perp, structure, entirely of 
 wood." — Archit. Topog. of Suffolk-. 
 
 Close to the church of Mildenhall 
 is the Manor House, a seat of Sir 
 Charles Bunbury, Bart. It was built 
 in the beginning of the 17th centy. 
 by the Nortlis, a younger branch of 
 the Guildford Norths, from whom 
 the present proprietor is lineally 
 descended. It is a picturesque, 
 venerable - looking mansion, with 
 many quaint gables surmounted by 
 balls. Its appearance is a good deal 
 marred by a square brick building 
 which was added for a library by 
 Sir Thomas Hanmer, the editor of 
 Shakespeare. The old dining-hall 
 is the handsomest part of the house 
 with its deep mullioned windows. 
 There is a tajjestry chamber, in 
 which is a picture of Catherine of 
 Braganza, said to be the original 
 sent to Charles II. from Portugal 
 " for the approbation of the person." 
 A long gallery stretches under the 
 roof the whole length of the house. 
 
 From the Norths the house de- 
 scended through his mother to Sir 
 Thomas Hanmer, Speaker of the 
 House of Commons in the reign of 
 Queen Anne, and Sir Thomas left it 
 to his nephew, Sir William Bunbury. 
 
 Sir Thomas Hanmer founded an 
 almshouse here for 4 widows. 
 
 From Mildenhall Road, the line 
 crosses the river Lack or Lark, enters 
 Cambridgeshire, and, passing through 
 the fenny country E. of Ely, reaches 
 
 53| m. Ehj Stat, (see Cambridge, 
 Ete. 3). 
 
 f 2 
 
( 316 ) 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 EOUTES. 
 
 *;,i* The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are 
 
 described. 
 
 IIOUTE PAGE 
 
 1. London to Cambridge by 
 
 Chesterford 816 
 
 2. Cambridge to Neiomar'ket . . 385 
 
 3. Cambridge to Ely. The Isle 
 
 of Ely 390 
 
 4. Ely to Peterborough by 
 
 March and Whittlesea. 
 [Thorney Ahhey'] . . . . 426 
 
 5. Cambridge to Wisheach, by 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 St. Ives, Chatteris, and 
 March 430 
 
 6. London to Cambridge by 
 
 Hitchin and Boyston . . 434 
 
 7. Koyston to Huntingdon. 
 
 [Winipole'] 436 
 
 8. Cambridge to Bedford . . 440 
 
 9. Cambridge to Sudbury by 
 
 Haverhill. IBartlow'] . . 441 
 
 ROUTE 1. 
 
 LONDON TO CAMBRIDGE, BY 
 CHESTERFORD. 
 
 (Great Eastern Hallway.) 
 
 For tlie line from London to Chester- 
 ford, wliere the rly. crosses the Cam 
 and enters Cambridgeshire, see'EssEX, 
 lite. 11. 
 
 3| m, beyond Chesterford, and 51 
 from London, the rail reaches 
 
 mUtlesford Stat. The Ch. hero, 
 for the most part Perp., is of little 
 interest. At Whlttlesford JBrkhje, 
 about 1 m. S., is a very good Dec. 
 Chajjel now iised as a barn. " The 
 Dec. mouldings are very fine; the 
 tracery of the E. window has been 
 cut out." The chapel was attached 
 to a hospital founded by Sir William 
 
 Colville, and placed under the rule 
 of a Prior. 
 
 Pamplsford Ball (W. Parker 
 Hammond, Esq.), 1 m. S.E., contains 
 some good pictures, including a fine 
 portrait by Gainsborough. The gar- 
 dens and grounds are fine and ex- 
 tensive ; and the scenery, here wooded, 
 pleasant. 
 
 The Ch. oiDuxford St. John, 1 m. 
 farther S., has some good Norm, and 
 Dec. portions. 
 
 [1 m. rt. of Whittlesford Stat, is 
 Sawston Hall, the venerable seat of 
 the ancient Roman Catholic famil}' of 
 Huddlestou, a nearly unaltered man- 
 sion of the 16th cent. The family 
 of Huddlestone had long been settled 
 in Cumberland, when William Hud- 
 dlestone, early in the 16th cent., ac- 
 quired Sawston by marriage with 
 one of the coheiresses of the Marquis 
 
Cambridge. Boute 1. -^London to Cambridge. 
 
 317 
 
 Montagu. Queen Mary was sheltered 
 here after the death of Edward VI. 
 by his son, Sir John Huddlestone, 
 and was conveyed thence on horse- 
 back behind his servant to Fram- 
 lingham. Her pursuers, foiled of 
 their prey, burnt the old liouse to 
 the ground, and it is said the Queen 
 rebuilt it from the mateiials of 
 Cambridge Castle. This tale of the 
 Queen's gratitude, however, is not 
 confirmed by the fact that the house 
 was not finished until after her death. 
 The dates on the house, 1557-1584, 
 prove this. It is moreover built for 
 the most part of brick. It seems 
 probable that she only gave leave for 
 the use of the materials from some 
 portion of the ruined castle. The 
 house is quadrangular. The original 
 chapel remains, in the roof. There 
 are many family portraits in the 
 gallery, including that of Queen 
 Mary's adherent, who was knighted 
 by Mary, and made Vice-Chamber- 
 lain to her husband, Philip. He has 
 a tomb in the ch. adjoining the park. 
 This ch. has portions of various dates, 
 and some mutilated brasses. 
 
 22 m. rt. is Babrahain, from 1576 to 
 IGOO the seat of Sir Horatio Pala- 
 vicini, of Genoa, collector of papal 
 taxes during Mary's reign, and pur- 
 loiner of them after her death. 
 
 " Horatio Palavicine, 
 Who robb'd the Pope to lend the Queen. 
 He was a thief. — A thief ? Thou liest ! 
 For why ? — hi robb'd but Antichrist. 
 Him Death with besom swept from Babr'am 
 Into the bosom of old Abr'am." 
 
 (These lines are from an epitaph 
 printed in Walpole's ' Anecdotes of 
 Painting.') Palavicini was certainly 
 in great favour with Elizabeth. He 
 was naturalized by patent in 1586 ; 
 and commanded an English vessel 
 in the fight with the Armada. His 
 widow married Sir Oliver Cromwell, 
 of Hinchinbrook ; and shortly after- 
 wards two of Sir Horatio's sons mar- 
 ried, on the same day, two daughters 
 pf Sir Oliver. The old house here 
 
 was pulled down in 1765. The pre- 
 sent mansion, the seat of H. J. 
 Adeane, Esq., was built in 1832, and 
 is one of the best country houses in 
 Cambridgeshire. The C/t. (chancel 
 Dec, nave Perp., tower Norm.), 
 situated within the grounds of the 
 hall, is very neatly kept.] 
 
 54 m. Shelford Stat. (Here, rt., 
 the line from Long Melford and 
 Haverhill, see Kte. 9, joins the main 
 line of the Great Eastern Ely.) 
 Great Shelford Ch. is a fine one, 
 Perp. throughout, though its side 
 windows are blocked up, and the E. 
 window is modern. Here are a fine 
 rood-screen, a parclose in N. aisle, an 
 open timber roof to nave, and a brass 
 to a priest (date 1411.) At a place 
 called Granham's Farm, in Great 
 Shelford, is a fine rectangular camp. 
 
 1 m. 1. Little Shelford Ch. con- 
 tains several monuments, and a 
 handsome canopied tomb and effigy 
 of Sir John de Frevile, temp. Edward 
 I. There are 3 chancel arches, 
 much carved work in chancel, and 
 remains of a rood-screen, preserved in 
 the vestry. The tomb of Sir John 
 Frevile is in the chancel, which he 
 probably rebuilt. No trace of mail 
 remains on the figure, which must 
 have been painted over. It is un- 
 usually graceful. W. of it is an 
 earlier monumental arch with very 
 rich mouldings, which cannot be 
 satisfactorily appropriated, — but, no 
 doubt, marks the tomb of a Frevilo. 
 Another Sir John (d. 1372) rebuilt 
 much of the ch. The stall-work is 
 partly his. (The backs of the stalls 
 are painted in panels.) There is a 
 brass for Eobert de Frevile (d. 1393) 
 and his wife. The Freviles, for the 
 three centuries during which they 
 held Shelford, were among the most 
 distinguished families in Cambridge- 
 shire. 
 
 2 m. r. are seen Gog-Magog Hills, 
 an ofifehoot from the chalk range, 
 
318 
 
 Houte 1.-^ Cambridge 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 which, in spite of their lofty sounding 
 name, would scarcely, save in Cam- 
 bridgeshire, be distinguished as hills 
 at all. (The name is said to be a 
 corruption of " Hog magog " — which 
 Gale, apparently supposing that our 
 ancestors talked High Dutcli, inter- 
 prets Hoofi maclit — " quod altum ro- 
 hur significat, et natume loci satis 
 congruit." — The " hog" may be com- 
 pared with the Surrey " Hog's back," 
 and with the low Latin " hoga," — a 
 height. Upon their summit is an 
 ancient intrenchment, within which 
 the Duke of Leeds has a house, once 
 the hunting seat of the Lord Treasurer 
 Godolphin (d. 1712), the owner of 
 the "Godolphin Arabian." Several 
 curious remains have been found in 
 the large barrows which exist in the 
 neighbourhood of the camp, and are 
 many of them of Eoman date. 
 
 The camp on tlie summit of these 
 hills is known as Wandlehury, or 
 Vandlehury. It crowns a hill which 
 slopes towards the S. and W., thus 
 affording additional security to those 
 quarters ; and is, no doubt, of British 
 origin, though the coins which 
 have been found there prove that 
 it must have been early occupied by 
 the Romans. It is the scene of a re- 
 markable story, told by Gervase of 
 Tilbury in his ' Otia Imperialia.' A 
 certain knight, named Osbert, being 
 in this neighbourhood, apparently 
 at the Castle of Cambridge, heard, 
 among other "ancient tales and tradi- 
 tions," that if any warrior, unattended, 
 entered the camp of Vandlebury by 
 moonlight, and challenged an adver- 
 sary to appear, he would be encoun- 
 tered by a spirit, in the form of a 
 knight. Osbert resolved to dare this 
 "perylous auntre," and set out, 
 attended by a single squire, whom he 
 ordered to remain without the in- 
 trenchment. A ghostly adversary 
 appeared, whom Osbert encountered, 
 unhorsed, and seized the reins of liis 
 steed. As he did so, the other sprang 
 up, and wounded Osbert in the thi^;!! 
 with his javelin. Osbert led ofi" the 
 
 horse in triumph, and entrusted it to 
 his squire. It was brought into the 
 court of Cambridge Castle, and tied 
 up with strong ropes. The horse was 
 jet black, as well as his whole ac- 
 coutrement, and apparently of great 
 beauty and vigour. He remained 
 with his keeper till cock-crowing, 
 when, withf eyes flashing fire, he 
 reared, spurned the ground, and van- 
 ished. Osbert found that the scar of 
 his wound opened afresh every year 
 on the same night in which he had 
 encoimtered the spirit. This story, 
 it need hardly be said, was the chief 
 source of the " Host's Tale " in the 
 3rd canto of ' Marmion ; ' in the notes 
 to which poem Sir Walter quotes a 
 somewliat similar legend, communi- 
 cated to him by Mr. Surtees of 
 Mainsforth, and perhaps (remember- 
 ing certain ballad tricks played by 
 that ingenious composer) of doubtful 
 authenticity. 
 
 1. of the rly., and 2 m. from Cam- 
 bridge, is Trumpington Ch. (See ^iost. 
 Excursions from Cambridge.) The 
 great mass of King's College Chapel 
 soon appears 1. ; and the train speedily 
 reaches 
 
 57| m. Cambridge. 
 Index. 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Addenbrooke's Hospital .. 362 
 
 Barnwell Priory 381 
 
 Botanic Gardens 3C3 
 
 Cambridge — Gerteral Notice 319 
 
 History of town .. .. 319 
 
 History of University . . 321 
 
 Day's walk through . . 322 
 
 St. Catherine's College , . . . 354 
 
 Christ's College 3C7 
 
 Clare College 342 
 
 Corpus Christi College . . . . 352 
 
 Castle 376 
 
 Churches : — 
 
 All Saints' .. .... ..381 
 
 S. Andrew the Great . . 380 
 
 S. Benedict's 378 
 
 S. Botolph's 380 
 
 S. Clement's 380 
 
'■:^£h:- 
 
 Colleg"es 
 
 1 Moffdalene CoUec/e 
 
 2 S^Johns 
 
 3 Jesus 
 
 4 Sidney Sussex 
 b Jrinity 
 
 6 Trinity Hall 
 
 7 Ganville <£■ Coins 
 
 8 Clare 
 
 9 Kings 
 
 10 C?w-ww 
 
 11 Qiceens 
 
 12 S* Catherines 
 
 13 Corpus Chris ti 
 
 14 Eiraruiraiel 
 
 15 Pembroke 
 
 16 S^Feters 
 
 17 Downing 
 
 Wn 
 
 *=^ 
 
 
 liuyj 
 
 Edw'^Weller 
 
6 TrimPfSaR 
 
 10 Otrists 
 
 13 Corpiij (hruiTi 
 
 
Cambridge. Boutel. — General Notice ; History. 
 
 319 
 
 Churches — {continued.) 
 
 PAGE 
 
 S. Edward's 380 
 
 S. Giles's 380 
 
 Great St. Mary's .. ..378 
 St. Mary the Less .. ..379 
 
 St. Michael's 380 
 
 St. Peter's 380 
 
 Holy Sepulchre 379 
 
 Holy Trinity 380 
 
 Downing College'' 363 
 
 Emmanuel College . . . . 364 
 Excursions from Cambridge 382 
 Fitzwilliam Museum . . . . 360 
 Geological Museum . . . . 344 
 Gonville and Caius College . . 337 
 
 Hobson's Conduit 362 
 
 Hotels and Lodgings .. .. 319 
 
 St. John's College 331 
 
 Jesus College 372 
 
 King's College 345 
 
 Magdalene College . . . , 374 
 
 Market 345 
 
 Museum, the New 364 
 
 Observatory 378 
 
 Parker's Piece 367 
 
 Pembroke College 357 
 
 St. Peter's College 358 
 
 Petty Cm-y 369 
 
 Pitt Press 357 
 
 Pythagoras, School of .. ..377 
 
 Queen's College 355 
 
 Eiver and Boats 374 
 
 Schools 340 
 
 Senate House 339 
 
 Sidney Sussex College . . . . 369 
 
 Sturl^ridge Chapel 381 
 
 Fair 381 
 
 Trinity College 323 
 
 Hall 342 
 
 Union Society 374 
 
 University Library . . . . 340 
 
 Hotels : Bull, in Trumpington St. 
 (on the site of an inn which was in 
 existence in the reign of Edward IV.), 
 Red Lion, in Petty Cury. These are 
 the principal hotels. Both are ex- 
 travagant, noisy, and not too com- 
 fortable. The University Arms, in 
 Kegent St., adjoining Parker's Piece, is 
 a good hotel, reasonable in itscharges, 
 quiet, and iar more agreeable than 
 
 any other in Cambridge. The Hoop, 
 in the parish of the St. Sepulchre, 
 has been an inn of much celebrity. 
 
 " Onward we drove beneath the Castle ; caught, 
 While crossmg Magdalene Bridge, a glimpse 
 
 of Cam ; 
 And at the Hoop alighted, famous Inn," 
 
 Wordsivorth' s Prelude, 
 
 Lodgings, but on a small scale, and 
 adapted for students of the University, 
 may generally be found, and are 
 inexpensive. Cambridge is readily 
 accessible by rly. from every part of 
 England. There is one large Rly. 
 Stat, used in common by the Great 
 Eastern, the Great Northern, the N. 
 Western, and the Midland Elys., all 
 of which meet at this Junction, and 
 on all of which numerous trains run 
 daily. The Stat, is about 1 m. distant 
 from the centre of the town. Omni- 
 buses and carriages are always in 
 attendance. There is a good ref>esh- 
 ment room. The ijopidation of the 
 town of Cambridge, in 1861, was 
 26,361. The number of members of 
 the University on the boards in 1869 
 was 9194. The resident members 
 numbered 2170. 
 
 Cambridge, named no doubt from 
 the bridge over the Cam below the 
 castle, (though at what time it 
 acquired this name is somewhat un- 
 certain ; the older forms are Granta- 
 brycge, Grantanbrycge, Grautebrige ; 
 it is, moreover, not clear whether 
 Cam or Granta was the older name 
 of the river — see Granchester, post, 
 Exc. from Cambridge) covers a sjaace 
 of level ground, chiefly on the S. side 
 of the Cam — although the mound of 
 the castle, representing the oldest 
 settlement, is on the N. side. Tiie 
 town seems to have spread south- 
 ward after the building of the Norm, 
 castle on, and encloaiug. tiiis mound 
 (see post, the Castle.) The position, 
 on the border of the fen country, 
 must always have been important: 
 but the importance of both town and 
 castle was speedily eclipsed by that 
 of the famous University. There are 
 
Cambridge. Boutel. — General Notice ; History. 
 
 319 
 
 Churches — {continued.') 
 
 PAGE 
 
 S. Edward's 380 
 
 S. Giles's 380 
 
 Great St. Mary's .. .. 378 
 St. Mary the Less .. ..379 
 
 St. Michael's 380 
 
 St. Peter's 380 
 
 Holy Sepulchre 379 
 
 Holy Trinity 380 
 
 Downing College! 363 
 
 Emmanuel College .. ,. 364 
 Excursions from Cambridge 382 
 Fitzwilliam Museum . . . . 360 
 Geological Museum . . . . 344 
 Gonville and Caius College . . 337 
 
 Hobson's Conduit 362 
 
 Hotels and Lodgings .. .. 319 
 
 St. John's College 331 
 
 Jesus College 372 
 
 King's College 345 
 
 Magdalene College . . . . 374 
 
 Market 345 
 
 Museum, the New 364 
 
 Observatory 378 
 
 Parker's Piece 367 
 
 Pembroke College 357 
 
 St. Peter's College 358 
 
 Petty Cury 369 
 
 Pitt Press 357 
 
 Pythagoras, School of . . . . 377 
 
 Queen's College 355 
 
 Eiver and Boats 374 
 
 Schools 340 
 
 Senate House 339 
 
 Sidney Sussex College . . . . 369 
 
 Sturbridge Chapel 381 
 
 Fair 381 
 
 Trinity CoUege 323 
 
 Hall 342 
 
 Union Society 374 
 
 University Library , . . . 340 
 
 Hotels : Bull., in Trumpington St. 
 (on the site of an inn which was in 
 existence in the reign of Edward FV.), 
 Red Lion, in Petty Cury. These are 
 the principal hotels. Both are ex- 
 travagant, noisy, and not too com- 
 fortable. The University Arms^ in 
 Kegent St., adjoining Parker's Piece, is 
 a good hotel, reasonable in itscharges, 
 quiet, and iar more agreeable than 
 
 any other in Cambridge. The Hoop, 
 in the parish of the St. Sepulchre, 
 has been an inn of much celebrity. 
 
 " Onward we drove beneath the Castle ; caught, 
 While crossmg Magdalene Bridge, a glimpse 
 
 of Cam ; 
 And at the Hoop alighted, famous Inn." 
 
 Wordsworth's Prelude. 
 
 Lodgings., but on a small scale, and 
 adapted for students of the University, 
 may generally be found, and are 
 inexpensive. Cambridge is readily 
 accessible by rly. from every part of 
 England. There is one large Rly. 
 Stat, used in common by the Great 
 Eastern, the Great Northern, the N. 
 Western, and the Midland Elys., all 
 of which meet at this Junction, and 
 on all of which numerous trains run 
 daily. The Stat, is about 1 m. distant 
 from the centre of the town. Omni- 
 buses and carriages are always in 
 attendance. There is a good ret>esh- 
 ment room. The 2^opidation of the 
 town of Cambridge, in 1861, was 
 26,361. The number of members of 
 the University on the boards in 1869 
 was 9194. The resident members 
 numbered 2170. 
 
 Cambridge, named no doubt from 
 the bridge over the Cam below the 
 castle, (though at what time it 
 acquired this name is somewhat un- 
 certain ; the older forms are Granta- 
 brycge, Grantanbrycge, Grantebrige ; 
 it is, moreover, not clear whether 
 Cam or Granta was the older name 
 of the river — see Granchester, post, 
 Exc. from Cambridge) covers a sj)ace 
 of level ground, chiefly on the S. side 
 of the Cam — although the mound of 
 the castle, representing the oldest 
 settlement, is on the N. side. The 
 town seems to have spread south- 
 ward after the building of the Norm, 
 castle on, and enclosing, tliis mound 
 (see post, the Castle.) The position, 
 on the border of the fen country, 
 must always have been important: 
 but the importance of both town and 
 castle was speedily eclipsed by that 
 of the famous University. There are 
 
320 
 
 Boute 1. — Cambridge: History ; 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 no towns in Europe, none indeed in 
 the world, like Cambridge and 
 Oxford. Other great medioeval 
 universities — Louvain, Salamanca, 
 Bologna — have either fallen com- 
 pletely from their high estate, or, as 
 seems to have been the case at Lou- 
 vain especially, were never remark- 
 able for the architectural dignity of 
 their colleges or hostels. Others, still 
 more famous, as that of Paris, formed 
 only settlements witliin the walls of 
 the greater cities. But here, and at 
 Oxford, the University entirely over- 
 shadowed and. eclipsed the town, and 
 still fully retains its ancient import- 
 ance. The older buildings of no 
 university in Europe were more 
 stately; and those of more modern 
 date, ranging from the 16th cent, to 
 the present lime — exceeding most of 
 the older in extent and importance — 
 bear witness to the vigorous and 
 uninterrupted life of these English 
 Universities. So much mediaeval 
 character, in some respects so little 
 changed, yet so entirely alive and 
 active, and full of the power of adap- 
 tation to modern necessities, is to be 
 found nowhere else. 
 
 The best general views of Cam- 
 bridge are from the roof of King's 
 College Chapel, or from the castle 
 mound. The situation is not so 
 favourable or so picturesque as that 
 of Oxford, although much cannot be 
 said in favour of that. But in both 
 cases the stately buildings, varied in 
 height and in outline, are admirably 
 set off by groups and avenues of 
 magnificent trees — themselves no 
 small evidence of long continued care 
 and prosperity. At Oxford the Col- 
 leges, with tlieir trees and gardens, 
 are more scattered over the whole 
 town. At Cambridge the principal 
 Colleges are ranged along the river 
 bank, and the trees form a deep, 
 leafy screen beyond them. Tlie 
 general view of either town, in early 
 summer, before the fresh green has 
 at all changed, is singularly beautiful, 
 and is unlike that of any other Eng- 
 
 lish city. In some respects, however, 
 Oxford has decidedly the advantage. 
 Cambridge has no such thoroughfare 
 as the High Street, with its " stream- 
 like windings," and can boast no 
 such perfect College as tlje Oxford 
 IMagdalene, — the most perfect and 
 the most beautiful in the world. On 
 the other hand, Oxford has no build- 
 ings so stately and excellent in 
 themselves as King's College Chapel 
 and the Fitzwilliam Museum. 
 
 For the Eoman station here, and 
 the foundation of the Castle, see 
 2J0st (the Castle). The town itself 
 has had little history. During the 
 " wars of the Barons " the neigh- 
 bourhood w'as ravaged by certain 
 of the Barons' adherents, who 
 had taken possession of the Isle of 
 Ely; and in 1267 Henry III., and his 
 brother Richard of Cornwall, came 
 to Cambridge, entrenched the town, 
 and erected two gates, soon afterwards 
 burnt by the Barons' men from Ely. 
 In 1381, during " Wat Tyler's " in- 
 surrection, whilst the commons of 
 Norfolk and Suffolk were in arms (see 
 Introduct. and Norwich (Nokfolk, 
 Ete. 1), and Bury St. Edmund's 
 (Suffolk, Ete. 2) the University of 
 Cambridge was attacked, chiefly by 
 persons from the neighbourhood, 
 and, with the consent of the mayor, 
 by the commonalty of the town. 
 They ransacked the Colleges, espe- 
 cially Corpus Christi, to which, for 
 some reason, they had great hatred, 
 burnt books, charters and writings, 
 including the statutes and evidences 
 of the University, and scattered to 
 the winds the ashes ot what they 
 called ''the skill of the clerks."" 
 This "rabble rout," as Fuller calls 
 it, was attacked and .scattered by 
 Henry Spenser, the young Bishoj) 
 of Norwich, who afterwards relieved 
 Norwich and defeated Littester at 
 North Walsham. This is the most 
 important " town and gown" riot in 
 the History of Cambridge, as to 
 which little more need be re- 
 corded, 
 
Cambridge. Bouie 1. — History of tJie University. 
 
 321 
 
 It is impossible to fix, with any 
 certainty, the time at wliich the 
 University was established in Cam- 
 bridge. The two great Universities 
 have broken lances on sundry occa- 
 sions in defence of their respective 
 antiquity. Oxford asserted that cer- 
 tain Greek Professors, who came to 
 this country with Brutus of Troy, 
 established her schools "about the 
 time wlien Eli was Judge in Israel ;" 
 whilst Cambridge, not to be outdone, 
 declared that her foundation was due 
 to one Cantaber, "a Spanish Prince," 
 who was hospitably received by 
 Giu-guntius, King of Britain, in the 
 year of the world 3588. Cantaber, it 
 appears, had been educated in 
 Athens, and brought over Greek Phi- 
 losophers to become "Canlabrian'' 
 tutors. ;Such were the assertions 
 that passed between Oxford and 
 Cambridge in the days of Elizabeth 
 — Oxford being defended by Thomas 
 Key, master of University College, 
 whilst the champion of Cambridge 
 was the more celebrated John Cay, 
 or Cains, one of the founders of 
 Gonville and Caius College (see 
 post). These ingenious histories are 
 due, partly, to the vigorous imagina- 
 tion of Geoffrey of Monmouth. The 
 " Continuator " of Ingulph, writing 
 under the name of Peter of Blois, 
 asserts that, in 1110, Joffrid, Abbot 
 of Crov,land, sent certain learned 
 monks to Cambridge, who lectured 
 there, and drew many scholars round 
 them. It is possible that the vicinity 
 of Cambridge to the great Bene- 
 dictine monasteries of the fens may 
 not have been without influence on 
 the origin of the University : but the 
 authority of the "Continuator" is 
 almost as doubtful (or as little doubt- 
 ful) as that of Ingulph ; and all we 
 can gather with certainty is that 
 (probably some time ) before the year 
 1231 scholars had assembled in 
 Cambridge. This, at least, is proved 
 by writs issued by Hen. III. at Ox- 
 ford, in 1231, for the regulation of 
 the Cambridge "clerks," In these 
 
 writs, the Chancellor and Masters of 
 the University are duly mentioned. 
 
 From this time the University of 
 Cambridge increased steadily in 
 numbers and importance. The 
 scholars, at first, as at Oxford, Paris, 
 and other Universities, lived scattered 
 throughout the town, or were 
 gathered into so-called "Hostels;" 
 and the first Collegiate establishment 
 founded here, the members of which 
 were bound by common rules and 
 discipline, was St. Peter's, dating from 
 1284 (see post,) Various foundations 
 succeeded. Benedictines and Cis- 
 tercians had their houses here, to 
 which they sent such young monks 
 as promised to become scholars. 
 The houses of the Friars in Cam- 
 bridge — Franciscans and Dominicans 
 — were attached to the University. 
 Royal patrons arose, like Edward HI., 
 Henry VI., and Henry VIII. : and 
 the wealth and well-doing of Cam- 
 bridge, as of Oxford, were increased, 
 rather than lessened, by the great 
 religious change of the 16th century. 
 
 There are 17 Colleges. The head 
 of each is the "Master," except at 
 King's, the head of which is "the 
 Provost," and at Queens', whose head 
 is "the President." In all, the 
 Master's house is called " the Lodge." 
 (It should here be said that at the 
 entrance of each college is the 
 Forte/s Lodge ; and that strangers 
 must apply to the Porter in order to 
 see the Hall and Chapel.) A great 
 part of the buildings of almost every 
 college is comparatively modern. 
 Very much building went on in the 
 latter years of the 18th cent., and 
 has been continued up to the present 
 time. Much of this work, especially 
 the earlier Gothic "renaissance," 
 the work of Wilkins at Corpus, Oft 
 King's, and elsewhere — and even, 
 that of Richnan at St. John's— is 
 not very satisfactory; but in all 
 cases it illustrates the architectural 
 knowledge and history of the time ; 
 and from this point of view the most 
 recent worlds— St, John's chapel, the 
 
 V 3 
 
122 jRoute 1. -^Cambridge : Points of Interest ; Sect. IV. 
 
 new front of Caius, the hall of Peter- 
 house — bear the strongest testimony 
 to the skill, power, and judgment of 
 their designers. Cambridge, in fact, 
 including its churches, affords a 
 complete series of studies for the 
 historian of architecture. Beginning 
 with St. Benedict's, and then St. 
 Sepulclire's, churches, examples are 
 afforded of every succeeding i^eriod — 
 including such structures as King's 
 College Chapel, and Wren's Library 
 at Trinity — imtil we come to Mr. 
 Gilbert Scott's magnificent work, 
 the chapel of St. John's. 
 
 The chief j^oints of interest in 
 Cambridge are included in the fol- 
 lowing day's icalh through the town. 
 It need hardly be said, however, that, 
 to see and study the place to any 
 real advantage, a much longer time 
 is required. 
 
 A day's walk through Cambridge. 
 From whatever hotel the stranger 
 may be staying at, he will do well to 
 proceed at once to Trinity and St. 
 John's Colleges, as the most im- 
 portant in the tjniversity. Begin- 
 ning with them, he may walk down 
 Trumpington-st. to the Fitzwilliam 
 Museum — then making his way by 
 Downing-street into St. Andrew's- 
 st. By this route, omitting the less 
 important points (for which the 
 Index at the head of this notice 
 should be consulted), the most inter- 
 esting are : — 
 
 Trinity College : hall, chapel, and 
 library. See also the walks across 
 the river. St. John's : chapel, and hall. 
 Cross the bridge— see the court on 
 the 1. bank of the river — and remark 
 the view of Trinity Library from the 
 grounds. Caius College : new court, 
 and hall. Clare Hall : walk through 
 the court to the bridge over the 
 river. (Remark, between Caius and 
 King's Colleges, the Senate Houst, 
 and the University Library ; and, on 
 the other side of the street, Great St. 
 
 Mary^s.) King's CoZZej/e : chapel (go, 
 if possible, to the roof, for the sake 
 of the view). View from King's 
 bridge across the river. Queen's: 
 jHcturesque views in the coui'ts, and 
 Erasmus' walk across the rivei'. 
 Look into the courts of Corpus, 
 and, if there be time, see St. Bene- 
 dict's Cli. At Pembroke see the 
 chapel. St. Peter's: new hall, and 
 chapel. Fitzwilliam Museum: pic- 
 ture and statue galleries. Return- 
 ing through Downing-st., pass into 
 St. Andi-ew's-st., remarking the 
 double avenue, rt., leading to Down- 
 ing College. Walk through the 
 com-ts of Emmanuel, and, if possible, 
 see the pictiire gallery in the 
 Master's Lodge. (For this leave 
 must be asked.) At Christ's College 
 see the garden, with Milton's mul- 
 berry tree. At Sidney Sussex see, if 
 possible (leave must be asked) the 
 portrait of Cromwell in the Master's 
 Lodge. Thence proceed by Jesus 
 Lane to Jesus College. See the 
 chapel and hall. Returning into 
 Bridge-st., see St. Sepulchre's Ch. ; 
 and, crossing the bridge, see the 
 exterior of the Pepysian Library in 
 the inner court of Magdalene College. 
 The gardens and grounds of the 
 different Colleges bordering the river 
 are very beautiful, and shoidd not be 
 missed. These grounds do not com- 
 municate with each other, but may 
 be entered through the courts of the 
 several Colleges to which they be- 
 long. 
 
 Such a day's work is hardly to be 
 recommended; but those who are 
 pressed for time will, by taking the 
 route here sketched for them, see 
 what is most important and interest- 
 ing in Cambridge. The same line of 
 route is taken in the descriptions 
 which follow, beginning with Trinity 
 Ck)llege. 
 
 [It should here be said that Cam- 
 bridge has been most minutely and 
 accurately described by the late 
 Charles Henry Cooper— for many 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boide \. --^Trinity College. 
 
 323 
 
 years Town Clerk — in his ' Memo- 
 rials of Cambridge,' 3 vols, (1861, 
 seqq.); a new and almost entirely 
 re- written edition of the "Memo- 
 rials," in 2 vols., published in 1845 
 by Wright and Jones, and illustrated 
 by Le Keux ; and in his ' Annals of 
 the University and Town of Cam- 
 bridge,' 3 vols. — a minute chronicle 
 of events down to 1853. It is j^ro- 
 per to make an acknowledgment of 
 the wide and general use which 
 has necessarily been made of these 
 volumes. Loggan's ' Cantabrigia 
 Illustrata,' published about 1690, is 
 valuable as alFording proof of the 
 appearance and condition of the uni- 
 versity buildings at that time. The 
 coloured illustrations of the 'His- 
 tory of Cambridge,' published by 
 Ackerman in 1815, are by Mackenzie 
 and the elder Pugin, and are very 
 excellent. Photographs of every 
 building in the town, and of every 
 part of the town, may be had at the 
 different shops; the best are in 
 King's Parade.] 
 
 Trinity College (besides walking 
 through the courts, see the Itall, the 
 chapel, the library, the pictures in the 
 Lodge, and the College walks on the 
 W. side) was founded by Hen. YIII., 
 under a charter dated Dec. 19, 1546. 
 It occupies the sites, and retains 
 actual portions of, some earlier foun- 
 dations ; all of which were sui'- 
 rendered into the hands of the King, 
 who settled their buildings and col- 
 lective revenues on his new College. 
 Of these earlier foundations the most 
 important were King's Hall and 
 Michael House. King's Hall was 
 founded by Edward III., in continua- 
 tion of a support provided for certain 
 scholars by Edward II. It was 
 much patronized by later sovereigns. 
 Its buildings were extensive ; and 
 its revenues at the surrender to 
 Henry VIII. were 214Z. Os. 3d. It 
 produced six bishops, the most dis- 
 tinguished of whom was Cuthbert 
 Toustall, bishop of Durham (1530- 
 
 1559). Michael House was founded 
 by Hervey de Stanton, Chancellor of 
 the Exchequer to Edward II. At the 
 surrender its revenues were 144^. 3s. 
 Id. Its most eminent scholar (who 
 became Master of the College in 1497) 
 was John Fisher, Bishop of Rochester 
 (1504-1535), the fellow-sufferer with 
 Sir Thomas More. There were be- 
 sides 8 " hostels of scholars " on, or 
 close to, the site of Trinity ; the 
 name of one of which is preserved in 
 " Gerrard's Hostel Lane," between 
 the College and Trinity Hall. (Mr. 
 Cooper insists that the true name 
 is Garret Hostel, and that " Ger- 
 rard"is unsiipported by any autho- 
 rity.) These had nearly all be- 
 come the property of the two larger 
 foundations. Henry added to the 
 older revenues estates which had 
 belonged to numerous dissolved 
 monasteries, rendering altogether an 
 income of more than 16781. Mary 
 also contributed largely to the en- 
 do w^ment ; and later benefactors have 
 been numerous. The College, from 
 its wealth, and from the great dis- 
 tinction of its Masters and Fellows, 
 has always maintained a decided 
 pre-eminence. Its most celebrated 
 Masters have been: John Eedman, 
 Master of King's Hall at the dissolu- 
 tion, and first Master of Trinity — at 
 whose suggestion, there is reason to 
 believe. Trinity College was founded ; 
 John Christopherson, Bishop of Chi- 
 chester (1557-58); John Whitgift, 
 Archbishop of Canterbury (1583- 
 1604), in whose time the College 
 acquired much reputation ; Thomas 
 Xevile, Dean of Canterbmy, died 
 1615; John Wilkins, the eccentric 
 Bishop of Chester (1668-1672); Henry 
 Feme, Bishop of Chester (1662) 
 John Pearson, Bishop of Chester, the 
 great writer on the Creed (1673- 
 1686) ; Isaac Barrow, the divine, 
 Master from 1673 to his death in 
 1677 (Charles IL, on appointing him, 
 declared that he had given the 
 Mastership to the best scholar in 
 England); John North, brother to 
 
324 
 
 Boute 1. — Cambridge 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 the Lord Keeper Guilford ; Kichard 
 Bentley, the famous scholar and 
 critic, Master from 1700 to 1742 ; 
 Christopher Wordsworth (brother of 
 the poet), died 1846; and William 
 Whewell, died 1866. 
 
 The famous Puritan, Cartwright, 
 the opponent of Whitgift, was a 
 Fellow of Trinity, and Margaret 
 Professor of Divinity. The Puritan, 
 Travers, to w^hom we, in some mea- 
 sure, owe the ' Ecclesiastical Polity ' 
 of Hooker, was also a Fellow here. 43 
 fellows were ejected after the " visita- 
 tion " in 1643. Among these names 
 occurs that of Cowley the poet. 
 
 Of the distinguished persons who 
 have been educated here, or who 
 have been connected with the Col- 
 lege, it is impossible to give a com- 
 plete list. More than 50 bishops are 
 reckoned among the " alumni " of 
 Trinity ; and among its laymen, and 
 churchmen of lesser dignity, are: 
 Francis Bacon ; Dryden ; and Sir 
 Isaac Newton ; Queen Elizabeth's 
 Earl of Essex ; Giles Fletcher, the 
 poet ; Dr. Donne ; Sir Eobert Cotton, 
 the antiquary ; George Herbert of 
 Bemerton ; Chief Justice Coke ; 
 Philemon Holland ; Sir Henry Spel- 
 man ; the poets Cowley and Marvel ; 
 the naturalists Eay and Willoughby ; 
 Gale, the antiquary ; Montague, first 
 Earl of Halifax ; Roger Cotes, the 
 mathematician ; Vincent Bourne ; 
 Conyers Middleton ; Maskeleyne, the 
 astronomer ; Eichard Person ; Do- 
 bree ; Lord Byron ; Archdeacon 
 Hare ; J. M. Kemble, the Saxon 
 scholar ; aud Lord Macaulay. Alfred 
 Tennyson, the Laureate, was of this 
 College. 
 
 Trinity College consists of 3 courts 
 or quadrangles : the Great Court ; 
 Nevile's Court ; and the New Court. 
 The buildings of the older foun- 
 dations remained in a confused, 
 irregular condition for some time 
 after the establishment of the new 
 College ; and it was only gradually 
 that Trinity assumed its present 
 order and architectural dignity. 
 
 The College is entered from Trinity- 
 street by the Grand Entrance Toiver, 
 called the King's Gateway, which 
 opens to the Great Court. This was 
 the Gateway Tower of King's Hall ; 
 and the lower part was built, as 
 seems tolerably certain, in the reign 
 of Edward IV., since the supporters 
 of the royal arms, above the postal, 
 are two lions, used by no other 
 monarch. This coat was intended 
 for the shield of Edward III. ; and 
 the smaller shields on either side 
 are those of Edward III.'s children. 
 Below the main shield are the arms 
 of Roger Eotherham, master of King's 
 Hall 1475-7. In a canopied niche 
 above is a statute of Henry VIIL, in 
 whose time, it would seem, the ujiper 
 part of the gateway was built. It is 
 altogether a fine composition. 
 
 Dr. Bentley, when Master, raised 
 an observatory on this tower, which 
 was, happily (although New^ton had 
 studied in it), removed in 1797. The 
 Great Court, which opens beyond, is 
 by far the largest cjuadrangle in the 
 Universitv, measuring, E. and W., 
 334 ft. ..325; and N. and S. 287 
 ft... 256. On the N. side (rt. on 
 entering) are the chapel, and King 
 Edward's Tower. On the TT'^. are 
 the Master's lodge, hall, and com- 
 bination rooms. The two other sides 
 are occupied by sets of rooms; and 
 in the centre of the S. side is a tower, 
 called the Queen's Tower, from a 
 statue of Mary I. on its front. The 
 buildings here are of different dates ; 
 but the court was arranged as at 
 present, and the conduit was erected 
 in its centre, by Thomas Nevile, 
 Master from 1593 to 1615. This 
 conduit, or fountain, is quaint and 
 striking, and adds greatly to the 
 effect of the court, which, it has been 
 said with justice, exceeds, in pictur- 
 esque effect and architectural im- 
 portance, any quadrangle at Oxford. 
 In Loggan's views the conduit is 
 shown with a balustrade surrounding 
 it. This, or something resembling it, 
 might be restored with advantage, 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boufe 1. — Trinity College, 
 
 325 
 
 and would give increased dignity 
 and effect. 
 
 The Chapel, on the N. side, occu- 
 pies, at least a part of the site of the 
 old chapel of King's Hall. This was 
 pidled down, and a new chapel was 
 begun by Queen Mary, which had 
 only risen as high as the windows at 
 her death. Elizabeth finished it (or 
 rather, perhaps, allowed the College 
 to finish it), and Mary had before 
 given leave to use the ruins of Cam- 
 bridge Castle for the purpose. Ex- 
 ternally it is a long, plain building, 
 of tolerably good Gothic for the 
 time. The interior was entirely 
 altered and refitted during the long 
 Mastership of Bentley (1700-1742), 
 at a cost of more than 6000Z, It is 
 wainscoted, as high as the windows, 
 with carved oak, the carving being 
 by Griulimj Gibbons. A lofty altar- 
 piece, also of carved oak, rises above 
 the altar, and entirely blocks the E. 
 window. In it is set a picture by 
 West, of St. Michael binding Satan. 
 The organ is by the famous " Father 
 Smith ; " and it was the building of 
 this very fine instrument that led 
 Bentley to refit the chapel for its 
 reception. It has received many 
 additions, the later by Gray and Son 
 of London. The paintings on either 
 side of the altar date from the reign 
 of Queen Anne. Some of the win- 
 dows have been filled with modern 
 stained glass, and the chapel is about 
 (1870) to be altered and re-decorated. 
 But more noticeable than anything 
 in the chapel is the fidl-length statue 
 of Sir Isaac Newton, by Eoubilliac, 
 which stands in the centre of the 
 ante-chapel — itself striking from its 
 length, and its lining of dark wood. 
 The statue was the gift of Dr. 
 Smith, who succeeded Bentley in the 
 mastershij). The great philospoher 
 stands looking upwards, and holds a 
 prism in his hand. The head, says 
 Waagen, " is dignified, characteristic, 
 and sj)irited ; but the cast and treat- 
 ment of the drapery, quite in the 
 
 manner of that age, realistic and 
 without style." On the pedestal are 
 the words, "Newton. Qui genus 
 humanum ingenio superavit." (The 
 words are from Lucretius : — 
 
 "Qui genus humanum ingenio superavit, et 
 
 omnes 
 Perstrinxit Stellas exortus ut setherius Sol.") 
 
 It is this statue, " Newton with his 
 prism and silent face," which Words- 
 worth, in the ' Prelude,' tells us he 
 coidd see from the window of his 
 rooms in St. John's College. (Person 
 was buried Oct. 5, 1809, at the foot 
 of this statue.) On either side of 
 the portal opening to the chapel are 
 statues of — Lord Bacon, given by 
 Dr. "VVhewell; it is a copy (but 
 without the hat) of the well-known 
 seated figure in St. Michael's Ch., 
 St. Alban's, where Bacon is buried ; 
 and of Isaac Barrow, given by the 
 late Marquis of Lansdowne. Half- 
 way down the antechapel, on the 
 S. side, is a seated statue of Lord 
 Macaulay, by Woolner, very good 
 and characteristic. (A statue of 
 Whewell, also by Woolner, is to face 
 that of Macaulay.) Here, also, 
 among other busts and memorials, 
 is a tablet for Eoger Cotes, the 
 mathematician, with an inscription 
 by Bentley. Cotes, who died young, 
 was a contemporary of Newton, who 
 said of him, " If Cotes had lived, 
 we should have known something." 
 King Edward's Toiver. W. of the 
 chapel, seems to have formed part 
 of the old King's Hall. It has, 
 however, been removed to its present 
 position, and formerly stood near the 
 site now occupied by the sun-dial. 
 The statue of Edward III., with the 
 motto, "Pugna pro patria," is a 
 later (Elizabethan ?) insertion. The 
 passage through the staircase next 
 to the tower leads to the bowling- 
 green. 
 
 On the W. side of the court is the 
 Eall, 100 ft. long. It was built and 
 wainscoted by Neville in 160i. A 
 lofty and light oriel projects on 
 
326 
 
 Boute l.'-^Carahridge : 
 
 Sect. lY. 
 
 either side, just below the high 
 table. Some gold and colour have 
 recently been applied, and with ex- 
 cellent effect, to the wainscoting 
 and to the roof. The hall is, by far, 
 the finest in Cambridge, and, except 
 those of Christchurch and Exeter, 
 there is no hall in Oxford which can 
 fairly be compared with it. Of the 
 pictures here, remark — Sir I. Newton, 
 by Valentine Ritz ; Cowley (copy, 
 by ;S'. Slaughton) ; Dryden (copy, by 
 Hudson); Sir H. Spelman (copy, by 
 Isaac Wlioocl) ; Sir Edward Coke, 
 and Bishop Pearson (both copies, by 
 Isaac Wliood); portraits of Eay, the 
 naturalist (copy by Hudson), and 
 of the great Dr. Bentley — an original 
 by Hudson; and the last Duke of 
 Gloucester, when a child, by Sir 
 Joshua Beijnolds. (This Duke was 
 Chancellor of the University from 
 1811 to 1831.) The visitor should 
 also notice a small full-length 
 portrait of Eichard, Duke of York 
 (Richard III.), in the glass of one of 
 the oriels. It is a true portrait, and 
 of great interest. Adjoining the 
 liall, and beyond the "screens" (as 
 the passage between the hall and 
 the butteries is called), is the kitchen, 
 a lofty and ancient apartment, worth 
 looking into. (It was part of Michael 
 House, as appears from the arrange- 
 ments at the further end, where the 
 windows have been blocked.) A 
 staircase, 1., leads to the Comhination 
 Booms, or common rooms of the Fel- 
 lows. These have been rebuilt with- 
 in the present century. They con- 
 tain some good inctures, among which 
 are (in the larger room) Charles Mon- 
 tagu, Earl of Halifax, by Kneller ; 
 Charles, Duke of Somerset, by Danse ; 
 IMarquis of Granby, by Sir J. Rey- 
 nolds (fine) ; and Duke of Gloucester, 
 l)y Opie ; Duke of Sussex, by Lons- 
 dale ; Marquis Camden (Chancellor 
 of the University), by Sir T. Law- 
 rence. In the smaller room are por- 
 traits of Dr. Nevile, Master ; and of 
 Sir I. Newton, by Vanderhanh. 
 There are also miuiatiu'es on ivory, 
 
 by Sir W. Ross, of Queen Victoria, 
 and the Prince Consort. These were 
 presented by Dr. Broadley, in 1817. 
 
 The Master's Lodge, which occu- 
 pies the rest of this side, and a por- 
 tion of that on the N., was much 
 altered by Bentley, who, before the 
 visit of George I., removed much 
 old tapestry, placing wainscot in its 
 stead, and afterwards erected the 
 grand staircase; — the first work he 
 undertook, '' proprio motu," but mak- 
 ing the college pay for it ; thus lead- 
 ing to his first quarrel with the 
 College. The interior was newly 
 fitted by Dr. Mansel (1798-1808); 
 and in 1845, at the suggestion and 
 partly at the expense of A. J. Beres- 
 ford Hope, Esq., now M.P. for the 
 University, the sash windows were 
 removed; Gothic were substituted; 
 and the large oriel, which gives 
 character to the front, was con- 
 structed. The house contains many 
 fine apartments, including a set of 
 state rooms used on occasions of royal 
 visits. The Judges, when on circuit, 
 are always lodged here ; and there 
 is a set of rooms especially assigned 
 to them. 
 
 The pictures in Trinity Lodge de- 
 serve special notice. The principal 
 are — Hall : Edward III., a copy, ap- 
 parently from some earlier picture. 
 The hall also contains a statue of 
 Edward VI., given in 17C7 by Dr. 
 Smith, then Master ; and a bust of 
 Lord Byron. State draiving-room: 
 Henry VIII. , a full-length, assigned 
 (but very doubtfully) to Lucas de 
 Heere. A cartoon, resembling this 
 picture, is at Chatsworth. This is 
 the picture " recollected " by Words- 
 worth in his sonnet : — 
 
 " The imperial stature, the colossal stride, 
 Are yet before me ; yet do I behold 
 The broad full visage, chest of amplest mould, 
 The vestments 'broidered with barbaric pride : 
 And lo! a poniard, at the Monarch's side, 
 Hangs ready to be grasped in sympathy 
 With the keen threatenings of that fulgent 
 
 eye, 
 Below the white-rimmed bonnet, fiir descried. 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Moute 1. — Trinity College, 
 
 327 
 
 Who trembles now at thy capricious mood ? 
 'Mid those surromiding worthies, haughty 
 
 King, 
 We rather think, with grateful mind sedate, 
 How Providence educetli, from the spring 
 Of lawless will, uulooked for streams of 
 
 good, 
 AVhich neither force shall check, nor tune 
 
 abate." 
 
 Chief Justice Sir Edward Coke, fine, 
 with a curious inscription," — reposita 
 est tibi corona gloriae," — which must 
 surely have been suggested by Coke 
 himself; — no one else would have 
 spoken so much good of him. Queen 
 Mary I., a small picture, recently 
 cleaned and restored ; the head, very 
 ugly, is unusually fierce in character. 
 Elizabeth, with yellow hair, in a 
 jewelled dress — a light and most 
 delicate ruft' — and a collar of fine 
 gauze. Lord Bacon, on panel, given 
 by Peter Burrel in 1761 ; the features 
 fine and delicate, the expression 
 sly. Earl of Essex (Chancellor of 
 the University from Lord Burleigh's 
 death on Aug. 4, 1598, to his execu- 
 tion for high treason in 166f). Sir 
 Isaac Newton, by ThornMll, a very 
 good picture, William Pitt. Fas- 
 sage: Rev. Thomas Jones, Fellow, 
 who did much for the advancement 
 of the College ; Sir Christopher 
 Wray, State hed-room — containing 
 the bed in which Queen Victoria 
 slept, on her two visits to Cam- 
 bridge. Earl of Essex, in white, 
 red beard. Joanna Bentley, wife 
 of the great Doctor, and generally 
 known as "Madame Bentley," by 
 TliornMll. Drawing-room : Anne Bo- 
 leyn, curious, and probably original, 
 though much painted over ; Van- 
 dyck, his own portrait. Dining- 
 room : Bentley, by Thornhill ; this 
 picture was engraved by Vertue as 
 the frontispiece to ' Manilius.' 
 Hinchclilfe, Master of Trinity and 
 Bishop of Peterborough, by Rev. W. 
 Feters. Porson. Dr. Wordsworth. 
 Dr. Whewell, a fine portrait, by S. 
 Laicrence. Dr. Nevile, builder of 
 Nevile's Court, striking and good; 
 Sir I. Newton, by Enoch Zeeman, 
 
 painted within 3 months of Sir 
 Isaac's death (hero the eyes are dis- 
 tinctly grey, in Thornhill's portrait 
 they are brown). Bishop Newton 
 (author of 'Newton on the Pro- 
 phecies '). Archbishop Whitgift. 
 Hawkins Browne, author of an Ode 
 to tobacco — who, according to Sid- 
 ney Smith, danced before the Queen 
 of Naples in a lava-coloured suit, to 
 the alarm and agitation of the Court 
 ladies. Mansel, Bishop of Bristol. 
 Judges' Boom : Portrait of Dr. Whe- 
 well, when young, by Joseph, A.R.A. 
 Study: J. J. Scaliger, a very fine 
 small head, attributed to F. Vero- 
 nese, given by Bentley; the beard 
 long, double-pointed white collar, 
 doctor's red robe, Scaliger's arms in 
 the corner : an inscription runs — 
 " Josephus Justus Jul. Caes. e 
 Scalig," and, in later letters, " Do- 
 navit Bentley." Cowley, a chalk 
 head, flowing hair, full face, with 
 signature, " Ab. Cowley, set. 20." 
 
 The Royal foundation of Trinity 
 (later than that of King's) gave it 
 a certain pre-eminence ; and nearly 
 all the Sovereigns, on their visit to 
 Cambridge, were entertained here. 
 Queen Elizabeth lodged at King's 
 College, since the buildings of Trinity 
 were then in an unfinished state. 
 But James I., Charles I., Queen 
 Anne (who knighted Newton at a 
 Court held in the' Lodge), George I., 
 and George II., were all received at the 
 Master's Lodge. George 11. was the 
 last sovereign entertained at Trinity, 
 until, in 1843, Queen Victoria was 
 here. Her Majesty again visited 
 Trinity Lodge in 1817, on the occa- 
 sion of the installation of the Prince 
 Consort as Chancellor of the Uni- 
 versity. 
 
 It was in the College Hall that sun- 
 dry " Comsedies " and " Traga^dies," 
 in Latin and in English, w^ere per- 
 formed before James I. on his visits 
 in 1614 and 1622. The King was 
 greatly delighted with the plays and 
 performances, and his recejition 
 pleased him so greatly " that he was 
 
328 
 
 Boute 1 . — Cambridge : 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 heard repeatedly to commend this 
 University, and its buildings, before 
 those of Oxford, which he had visited 
 the preceding year." Cowley's Eng- 
 lish Comedy of 'The Guardian,' 
 afterwards entitled the ' Cutter of 
 Coleman Street,' was acted here in 
 1642 before Charles, Prince of Wales, 
 afterwards Charles II. ; and his 
 Latin play of 'Naufragium Jocu- 
 lare' was acted in 1639. Cowley 
 was at this time a scholar (he w'as 
 afterwards Fellow) of Trinity. 
 
 In this great court, between the 
 gateway and the chapel, were the 
 rooms occupied by Sir Isaac Newton. 
 They were on the first floor of the 
 staircase next the gateway ; but the 
 court has been much altered, and an 
 extensive portico removed, since his 
 death. A Mr. John Wickens was 
 his chamber-fellow. " I never knew 
 him," wa-ote Dr. Humphrey Newton 
 (who was 5 years at Cambridge with 
 Sir Isaac) to Conduitt, " to take any 
 recreation or pastime, either in riding 
 out to take the air, walking, bowl- 
 ing, or any other exercise whatever, 
 tliinking all hours lost that were not 
 spent in his studies." 
 
 Through the screens, or passages 
 of the hall, the second, or Nevile's 
 Court, is entered. This is named 
 from its founder. Dr. Nevile, Master 
 of the College, who died in 1615 ; — 
 " a brave mind," writes Hacket, in 
 his ' Life of Abp. Williams,' " who 
 never had his like in that orb " (Trin. 
 Coll.), " for a splendid, courteous, 
 and bountiful gentleman." Two 
 sides alone were finished at his 
 death, and these (N. and S.) remain 
 nearly unaltered. The design (by 
 Kalph Simons, architect of the 2nd 
 court of St. John's) is far from un- 
 pleasing ; and " though the upper 
 stories are not so varied or so efiec- 
 tively broken as those of Clare, the 
 arcade below is a very pleasing 
 feature, rarely found in English, 
 though so common in Italian and 
 Spanish buildings of an earlier age." 
 -^Fergusson. U^ord Byron's rooms 
 
 were in this court.) The W. side of 
 the court is closed by the Library — 
 a very excellent work of Sir Christo- 
 pher Wren. " It is not unlike the 
 Library of St. Genevieve, at Paris, 
 which is so much admired, except 
 that there the lower story is occupied 
 by books, at Cambridge by an open 
 cloister. . . . Not only is the upper 
 story well arranged and well lighted 
 .... but, externally, it is a remark- 
 ably pleasing and appropriate design. 
 The effect toward the court-yard is 
 very much spoiled by the floor of the 
 library being brought down as low 
 as the springing of the arches of the 
 
 arcade which supports it it 
 
 looks as if the floor had sunk to that 
 extent." — Id. This defect does not 
 appear on the garden front, which is 
 simple and striking. On the court 
 side, underneath the middle arch, is 
 a bas-relief, representing Ptolemy re- 
 ceiving the Greek version of the Old 
 Testament from the hands of the 
 Seventy; and above, on the balus- 
 trade, are four statues — Divinity, 
 Law, Physic, and IMathematics — by 
 Gabriel Gibber (father of Colley 
 Cibber), sculptor of the figures of 
 " Mania" and " IMelancholia " on the 
 gates of Bethlehem Hospital. The 
 "■ frontispiece " against the Hall 
 (which forms the E. side of the 
 court) was added by Wren, in order 
 to " assimilate " the two buildings. 
 It has certainly deformed one. 
 
 The Library is accessible to stran- 
 gers daily, between 1 and 3 ; and is 
 approached by a fine staircase at the 
 N. end. On the roof of the staircase 
 are the arms of Bishop Pearson, Dr. 
 Barrow, Dr. North, and Dr. Mon- 
 tagu, successively Masters. The 
 interior of the library is very strik- 
 ing. There are, indeed, few similar 
 apartments in this country which 
 can fairly be compared with it, and 
 none which exceed it in a certain 
 harmonious dignity of both design 
 and arrangement. The length is 
 190 ft. ; tlic breadth 40 ft. At the 
 
Cai^ibridge. 
 
 Boute 1. '^Trinity College. 
 
 329 
 
 S. end are folding doors, opening to 
 a balcony, with a pleasant view of 
 the walks and river. Above the 
 doors is a window of stained glass 
 (over which, with great judgment, a 
 curtain is usually drawn) by Peckitt 
 of York, after a design by Cipriani. 
 The design — a happy confusion of 
 times and persons — represents New- 
 ton presented to George III., whilst 
 Bacon, in his Chancellor's robes, sits 
 below the throne. Eows of project- 
 ing book-cases divide the room on 
 either side into a number of small 
 "bays." Busts (casts) of eminent 
 persons are placed on each bookcase, 
 and marble busts on pedestals in 
 front. Rows of narrower and lower 
 bookcases, placed lengthwise, in 
 front of the others, contain special 
 collections. At the end, is Thor- 
 waldsen's statue of Lord Byron. 
 The fronts of the bookcases are en- 
 riched with carving, in lime-wood, 
 by Grinling Gihhons. They are of 
 extreme beauty, but are said to be 
 in a dangerous condition. One 
 piece, however, which has been " re- 
 etored" has, in fact, been spoiled; 
 and it is difficult to suggest any safe 
 method of treating them. Of the 
 marble busts, many are by Rouhiliac ; 
 and Chantrey has given special 
 praise to their " manly air and 
 vigorous freedom of manner." Be- 
 ginning at the S. end, they are — 
 (left) Bacon; Bentley (both Rou- 
 hiliac) ; Archdeacon Hare, Woolner ; 
 Sir R. Cotton ; Lord Whitworth 
 (both Rouhiliac) ; Eoger Cotes, Schee- 
 maJcers ; Dr. Shepherd, Bacon ; Sir 
 \V. Bolland, Sievier ; Willoughby, 
 Rouhiliac ; and Sedgwick, by Woolner. 
 (right are) — Newton and Barrow, 
 Rouhiliac ; Dr. Whewell, Baihj ; 
 Coke ; Lord Trevor, Rouhiliac ; Dr. 
 Smith ; Jurin, both by Sclu^emahers ; 
 Bay, by Rouhiliac; and Alfred Ten- 
 nyson, by Woolner ; this " stately 
 bust " is a fine representation of the 
 Laureate. The casts on the book- 
 cases are those of ancients on one 
 side, and of moderns on the other. 
 
 The fine Thorwaldsen statue is that 
 which was intended for West- 
 minster Abbey, and at length found 
 a more fitting resting-place in this 
 Library. 
 
 There are some portraits here, the 
 best of which are — Barrow ; Monk, 
 Duke of Albemarle ; Hackett, Bishop 
 of Lichfield, by Ritz ; Thomas Gale, 
 Dean of York, and Roger Gale the 
 antiquary. The printed books are 
 in number many more than 70,000 ; 
 and there are about 1500 vols, of 
 MSS. The collections in the smaller 
 cases are chiefly books left by Arch- 
 deacon Hare and the Rev. W. Grylls, 
 among which are some fine and rare 
 Aldines and Elzevirs. A very mis- 
 cellaneous assemblage of MSS., col- 
 lected by Thomas Gale, and presented 
 by his son Roger Gale, are in a closed 
 recess 1. of the entrance. Two other 
 recesses, at the S. end, contain the 
 valuable Shakespearian collection left 
 by Edward Capel (editor of Shake- 
 speare) in 1779 ; the Bentley MSS. 
 (many Greek, from Mt. Athos) ; and 
 some very curious and important 
 mediaeval MSS. Among these are 
 the Canterbury Psalter, containing 
 the Gallican, the Roman, and Je- 
 rome's Hebrew versions, with Anglo- 
 Saxon and Norman glosses, — grandly 
 illuminated ; the date is about 1150 ; 
 but (as Las been proved by a com- 
 parison with other volumes) many 
 of the illuminations are copies (in 
 general treatment, and greatly in 
 detail,) from miniatures of far earlier 
 date. Another, and later MS., had 
 belonged to the Sidney family ; and 
 entered in the calendar prefixed to 
 it are records of births, marriages, 
 and deaths of the Sidneys. The 
 original MS. of Hacket's 'Life of 
 Williams' is here. Here, too, are 
 ' Newton's Correspondence with 
 Cotes;' Milton's MS. of 'Comus,' 
 ' Lycidas ' and ' Arcades ; ' with 
 many smaller pieces, and sketches 
 for ' Paradise Lost ; ' many volumes 
 of Barrow's original MSS. ; and (in 
 a frame between two glass plates) 
 
330 
 
 Route 1. — Camhridge : 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 the first letter written by Lord Byron, 
 when 10 years old. 
 
 Other relics in the library are — - 
 the globe, compass, and other instru- 
 ments belonging to Sir Isaac New- 
 ton ; locks of his hair ; and a cast of 
 his face, said (but this seems doubt- 
 ful) to have been taken after death. 
 It was used by Eoubiliac for the 
 statue in the chapel. 
 
 At the foot of the staircase are 
 some Koman inscriptions and altars, 
 collected by Sir Robert Cotton, and, 
 given by his son Sir John Cotton, 
 brought, for the most part, from 
 stations along the line of the Roman 
 wall. Cotton visited the wall, with 
 Camden, in 1600 ; but, on account of 
 " the rank robbers thereabouts," they 
 could only see portions of it, and 
 could only bring away the altars 
 hero deposited. They are from 
 Bremenium (High Rochester) and 
 Habitancum (Risingham), both sta- 
 tions some miles N. of the wall, 
 with one from Magna (Carvoran), on 
 the wall itself. (See them described 
 by the Rev. J. C. Bruce, ' Archaol. 
 Journal,' Sept., 1855.) 
 
 The New, or King's Court, entered 
 from the arcade, or cloister, on the 
 S. side, was built by WilTdns (the 
 architect of Corpus and of King's 
 Colleges), at a cost of 40,000Z. The 
 foundation-stone was laid in 1823, 
 during the Mastership of Dr. Words- 
 worth. For the Gothic of that date 
 it is not unsuccessful. Outside the 
 gateway, on the E. side of this court, 
 is Bisliop's Hostel, a " hostel of 
 scholars," built by John Hacket, 
 Bishop of Lichfield, soon after the 
 Restoration. It bears the date of 
 1670. Hacket was the unwearied 
 restorer of his own cathedral, half- 
 ruined by Lord Brooke and his 
 Puritans, during the siege of Lich- 
 field. A gate, called Nevile^s Gate, 
 beyond Bishop's Hostel, in the lane 
 between Trinity and Caius Colleges, 
 leads to Trinity stables, and de- 
 serves notice as a picturesque bit of 
 Jacobtean architecture. 
 
 On the "W. side of the New Court 
 a gate opens to the College Walks. 
 These are very striking; and, indeed, 
 the view immediately in front of this 
 gateway, looking down the long 
 avenue of lime-trees, is probably the 
 finest in or near Cambridge. The 
 eye is led onward, 
 
 " Under the shady roof 
 Of branching ' limes,' star-proof," 
 
 to the gateway at the end of the 
 avenue, beyond which is seen the 
 spire of Coton Ch. It was this view 
 that Person compared to a College 
 fellowship — "a long, dreary road, 
 with a ch. at the end of it ; " but the 
 road is not dreary, and whoever is 
 led so pleasantly onward to the end 
 of his journey need hardly complain. 
 The iron gateway at the end of this 
 walk was brought from Horseheath 
 — the fine seat of the Lords Mont- 
 fort — long since destroyed (see Rte. 
 9). The bridge over the Cam, 
 with cycloidal arches, was built by 
 James Essex (d. 1784,) — an architect 
 of considerable reputation in hia 
 day, with much knowledge of Gothic, 
 — the friend of Gough, Cole, and 
 Horace Walpole. He lived and died 
 in Cambridge, and portions of his 
 work remain in several Colleges. 
 The land occupied by these walks 
 was first enclosed, and the course 
 of the river altered, by Thomas 
 Nevile, the Master to whom the Col- 
 lege is otherwise so greatly indebted. 
 Before his time, the Cam in front of 
 Trinity separated in two branches, 
 enclosing an island, called "Garret 
 (or Gerard's) Hostel Green." He 
 altered the river, and caused it to 
 flow in a single bed, as at present. 
 
 Across the street, opposite the 
 main gateway of Trinity College, 
 are two new courts — called • the 
 "Master's Courts," and built (1860, 
 and post,) by Salvin, at the sole 
 expense of the late Master, Dr. 
 Whewell. The exterior is good and 
 ])ietui-esque. The courts within are 
 dark and well-like. It is possible 
 
Cajibridge. Boute l.'-^St. Jolin's College. 
 
 OO. 
 
 to pass through these courts into 
 Sidney-st^ opposite Sidney Sussex 
 College. 
 
 Trinity College is, no doubt, the 
 most important in the University ; 
 but it is very closely run by its 
 neighbour, St. Jolm's; and in ex- 
 ternals, at any rate, they approach 
 each other as nearly as in the days 
 of James I., who declared that there 
 was no more difference between St. 
 John's and Trinity than between 
 two sixpences and a shilling. 
 (Trinity had then only one court, 
 St. John's two.) St. John's College 
 occupies the site of an hospital for 
 the reception of poor and sick per- 
 sons, founded by Henry Frost, a 
 burgess of Cambridge, in the time 
 of Henry II., and placed under the 
 rule of an Augustinian Prior and 
 brethren. The Lady Margaret, 
 Countess of Eichmond and Derby, 
 the mother of Henry VII., who had 
 already (1497) established divinity 
 professorships at Oxford and Cam- 
 bridge, became the foundress of 
 Christ's College (see post) in 1505, 
 and in the same year took steps for 
 converting St. John's Hospital into 
 a College for secular students. She 
 died in 1509, leaving power, by her 
 will, to her executors to carry out her 
 intentions at St. John's. The College 
 was duly incorporated and empowered 
 to hold the old house of the Hospital 
 and all its possessions. But Fisher, 
 Bishop of Rochester, one of the Lady 
 Margaret's executors, has recorded 
 the various difficulties which arose, 
 and which, but for his perseverance, 
 Avould hardly have been surmounted. 
 Fisher himself foimded four fellow- 
 ships and two scholarships, and sup- 
 plied a code of statutes, set aside by 
 Henry VIII. in 1545. Elizabeth's 
 commissioners, in 1580, issued an- 
 other code of statutes, which, with 
 little alteration, continued in force 
 until 1849. A new code was then 
 given by letters patent ; and, in 1859, 
 the Cambridge University Commis- 
 
 sioners supplied the statutes which 
 are now in force. 
 
 The College soon rose to import- 
 ance and distinction. Prince Charles, 
 and Frederick, the Elector Palatine, 
 were entertained here with great 
 magnificence in March, 1612-13. 
 James I., during his visit in 1615, 
 cost the College 500Z. ; and the 
 Earl of Suffolk, Lord High Treasurer 
 (the builder of Audley End), who 
 lodged here an that occasion, ex- 
 pended on his public table, and other 
 magnificences, no less than 5000Z. 
 The Prince, afterwards Charles I., 
 accompanied King James; and the 
 University Orator was taxed "for 
 calling the Prince Jacobissime Ca- 
 role ; and some will needs add that 
 he called him Jacobule too ; which 
 neither pleased the King nor any 
 body else." {Chamherlain to Sir 
 Dudley Carleton.) Charles I., when 
 his troubles were beginning in 1642, 
 came, with the Prince of Wales, to 
 St. John's, "took a travelling ban- 
 quet " in the inner court, and gave 
 the Prince " good store to put in his 
 pocket." The College afterwards 
 sent much plate to King Charles. 
 The Master was carried off to par- 
 liament as a prisoner ; and 29 Fellows 
 were ejected. In 1681 Charles II. 
 dined "in the long gallery" with 
 the Master. St. John's was especially 
 a non-juring College ; but an attempt 
 in 1694 to dispossess 20 Fellows who 
 had neglected to take the oaths was 
 unsuccessful. In 1717, 22 Fellows 
 were ejected for refusing to take the 
 oaths to the Government of George 
 I. Thomas Baker, the historian 
 of the College, — whose valuable 
 account of St. John's has been 
 ])rinted for the first time (1869) by 
 the Eev. J. B. Mayor — was one of 
 these Fellows, and writes himself 
 " Socius ejectus." 
 
 St. John's College now consists of 
 4 distinct courts, 3 on the rt. bank 
 of the Cam, and 1 on the 1. These 
 courts are of different dates. The 
 first court was completed about 1520 ; 
 
332 
 
 Boute 1. — Camhridge 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 the second was built between 1598 
 and 1G02 ; the thinl was in building 
 between 1624 and 16G9 ; the fourth, 
 or new court, beyond the river, was 
 begun in 1827, and finished in 1831. 
 The new chapel of St. John's was 
 begun in 1863, and consecrated in 
 1869. The chief points of interest 
 in this College are — the chapel, the 
 hall, and the library. (The stranger 
 should attend the Sunday evening 
 service — see post — in the chapel. 
 All are admitted to the ante-chapel ; 
 but the introduction of a Fellow is 
 required for admission to the chapel 
 itself.) 
 
 The street from which opens the 
 principal entrance of St. John's is 
 narrow, and there is no good view 
 on this side. The E. end of the 
 chapel api^roaches the street closely, 
 and is well seen in passing toward 
 Bridge-street. The entrance gate- 
 iixiy, through which we pass into the 
 first court, was, like the court itself, 
 built by the executors of the found- 
 ress, the Lady Margaret ; and is a 
 very good and picturesque example. 
 (The gateway between the 1st and 
 2nd courts, and the entrance gateway 
 of Jesus College should be compared. 
 These are later, but have much of 
 the same character, and are very 
 good.) The gateway is of brick, 
 with stone dressings. There are 2 
 stories above the portal ; and on 
 either side is an octagonal staircase 
 tower, rising above the roof. Over 
 the entrance is a statue of St. John 
 the Evangelist ; and below it the 
 arms and supporters of the foundress. 
 Her badges, the rose and portcullis 
 crowned, and the daisy, the "herb 
 Margaret," are also displayed on the 
 walls and on the vaulting. The 
 whole design is Gothic, without any 
 mixture of " renaissance." The first 
 court, entered by this gateway (and 
 finished about 1520), retains little of 
 its original cliaracter. The E. and 
 W. sides have been least altered ; 
 but the S. side was faced with stone 
 in 1 774 ; and the old chapel, which 
 
 nearly filled the N. side, has given 
 place to the present magnificent 
 structure. Over the portal, front- 
 ing the main entrance, is a statue 
 of the foundress. The hall fills the 
 space be ween this portal and the 
 chapel. 
 
 The old Chapel of St. John's, plain 
 and not very interesting, had been 
 much patched and altered since its 
 first erection. Many historical and 
 academical associations were, of 
 course, connected with it ; but, both 
 in size and in design, it was un- 
 worthy of so great a college, and in 
 1861 it was determined to remove it 
 altogether. The new work began on 
 Midsummer Day, 1863. The corner 
 stone (at the base of the S. wall of 
 the S. transept) was laid by the late 
 Henry Hoare, Esq., on May 6th 
 (St. John Port Latin) 1864. The 
 chajjel was consecrated by the Bp. 
 of Ely (Harold Browne), May 12, 
 1869. The architect was Mr. G. 
 G. Scott. The chapel is built 
 throughout with Ancaster stone, 
 roofed with Colley Weston slate, and 
 in architectural character is early 
 Dec, circ. 1280, somewhat later than 
 the Sainte Chapelle at Paris (1245- 
 1257); but that building is strongly 
 recalled by this chapel of St. John's, 
 and (still more) by the new chapel 
 of Exeter College, Oxford, also the 
 work of Mr. Scott. The niches on the 
 buttresses are partially filled with 
 figures : those of Lord Burleigh, Lord 
 Falkland, Abp. Williams, Lord Straf- 
 ford, Eoger Ascham, Gilbert of Col- 
 chester, and Lady Shrewsbury, being 
 already (1870) in position : and the 
 space on the E. side of the Court, 
 between the portal and the chapel, 
 is now filled up by lecture rooms. 
 
 The view of the chapel from the 
 outer court is very striking. The 
 richness of its sculjiture, and the 
 height of its roof (80 ft. to the 
 ridge) are noticeable ; but the tower, 
 beautiful as it is in certain lights, 
 seems too low (140 ft. to the parapet 
 — its dimensions on the square 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 JRoufe 1. — St. jolins College. 
 
 333 
 
 are 42 by 3G ft. — and too plain for 
 the rest of the structure; defects 
 to be regretted, since the tower is a 
 marked featm-e in all views of Cam- 
 bridge, and rises in all directions 
 above the surrounding buildings. 
 On the whole the exterior of the 
 chaj^el, fine as it is, is hardly equal 
 to the interior. The ground plan 
 forms the head and arms of a cross. 
 The tower rises from the middle of 
 the arms. The principal entrance 
 (of which the general design recals 
 the beautiful S. door of the choir in 
 Lincoln Cathedral) is in the E. face 
 of the S. transept, and is much 
 enriched. In the lower tymjoanum 
 is the Saviour in majesty. In the 
 gable is St. John with the cup, 
 and the eagle crests the uppermost 
 finial. 
 
 No one can well be disappointed 
 with the interior. The tower is 
 open to the height of 84 ft. from the 
 basement. This space, together with 
 the great length (172 ft.), and height 
 (63 ft.) of the chapel, the richly- 
 coloured roof and windows, and the 
 intricate beauty of the details, pro- 
 duce at once an impression of 
 grandeui' such as few, if any, modern 
 works can rival. Peterhead red 
 granite, Devonshire, Irish, and ser- 
 pentine marbles, and black and red 
 Derbyshire marble, have been used 
 in both chapel and antechapel. The 
 E. end of the chapel forms a five- 
 sided apse. A screen of carved oak 
 divides the antechapel from the 
 chapel itself. The pavement is of 
 Purbeck and Sicilian marbles, with 
 encaustic tiles. The altar is raised 
 on six steps, and on the ' paces ' to 
 which these steps lead are various 
 inlaid subjects, — the signs of the 
 zodiac ; figures of kings and prophets, 
 with inscriptions ; figures of Geo- 
 mctria, Poesis, Philosophia, and 
 Theologia, and figures of the cardinal 
 and Ckrislian Virtues. The altar 
 itself is of oak with carved panels, 
 and has for its top a single enorm- 
 ous slab of Belgian marble. The 
 
 ceiling of the chapel is vaulted in 
 oak, and is of J 9 bays. Under the 
 principal ribs of the ceiling are 
 statues of Apostles and Evangelists, 
 carved in stone, with distinctive 
 emblems. The nineteen bays con- 
 tain painted figures , of great per- 
 sonages, each bay representing those 
 of a single century. The series 
 begins at the E. end, with our Lord 
 in majesty. Then follow, through 
 the various ages, the great fathers 
 and doctors of the church; in the 
 6th (amongst others) Gregory the 
 Great and St. Augustine; in the 
 7th St. Etheldreda and Sigebert, 
 king of the E. Angles, and the 
 patron of S. Felix, the first bishop ; 
 in the 9th St. Edmund ; in the 13th 
 St. Louis of France, and Hugh de 
 Balsham, Bp. of Ely; in the 16th 
 the Lady Margaret, foundi'ess of St. 
 John's ; Bp. Fisher, her executor ; 
 Nicholas Metcalfe, Fisher's chaplain, 
 and the third IMaster of St. John's ; 
 Sir John Cheke, and Roger Ascham ; 
 in the 17th, Herbert, Taylor, Ken, 
 Leighton and Pascal; in the 
 18th, Beveridge, Butler, Fenelon, 
 Schwartz the Danish missionary, 
 and Sir Isaac Newton ; in the 19th, 
 Henry Martyn, William AVilberforce ; 
 Wordsworth, Thomas Whytehead, 
 chaplain to the first Bp. of New 
 Zealand, and James AVood, for 24 
 years Master of the College. All 
 in this centy. were members of St. 
 John's. 
 
 The stained fjlass is mainly by 
 Clayton and Bell. That in the W. 
 window of the tower, representing 
 the Last Judgment, was the gift of 
 batchelors and undergraduates of the 
 College. The five windows of the 
 apse were given by the Earl of Powis, 
 of St. John's College, and High 
 Steward of the University. The sub- 
 jects are from the life and history 
 of our Lord. Other windows have 
 been inserted, some as memorials, 
 some as gifts ; and all will soon, no 
 doubt, be entirely filled with stained 
 
334 
 
 Monte 1 — Camhridge : 
 
 Sect. iV. 
 
 glass. Those already in place are 
 among the finest modern examples. 
 The t\Yo windows in the antechapel 
 on the N. are by Wailes. The next 
 window to the E. is by ffardman. 
 
 In removing the old chapel, por- 
 tions of the chapel of St. John's 
 Hospital (founded temp. Hen. II., 
 see ante) were discovered. They 
 were E. E., and the arches of the 
 piscina have been fitted into the 
 present choir, an interesting relic. 
 The organ, by Messrs. Hill, is a very 
 fine one. The chapel is lighted by 
 a row of gas jets at the height of the 
 window sills. The service on Sunday 
 evenings is one of the great sights 
 of Cambridge. The chapel is then 
 filled from end to end with members 
 of the College, all wearing surplices. 
 
 In the antecliapel are placed (re- 
 moved from the old chapel) a statue 
 (seated) of Dr. Wood, Master of the 
 College and Dean of Ely, — it is by 
 E. H. Bailey, — and the monument of 
 Hugh Ashton, Archdeacon of York, 
 died 1522. A 'cadaver' is seen 
 through the ojDen arches of the table 
 tomb which supjDorts the effigy of 
 Ashton, who was one of the executors 
 of the foundress, himself founded 4 
 fellowships and 2 scholarships, and 
 gave money and plate. An ash, 
 springing from a tun, which appears 
 on the monument, is his rebus. 
 3 arches on the S. wall of the S. 
 transept contain the arches of a 
 chantry founded by Bp. Fisher, on 
 the N. side of the altar in the old 
 chapel. 
 
 The Hall, between the 1st and 
 2nd courts, was part of the erection 
 under the foundress's will ; but has 
 been enlarged and decorated under 
 the direction of Mr. G. G. Scott. 
 The whole of the N. end (where is 
 the high table), is new, together with 
 its oriel. The old oriel is, of course, 
 retained, so that the hall, very un- 
 usually, has two. The roof has 
 been touched with gold, with very 
 good effect. In one of the windows 
 
 are shields of arms removed from 
 the old chapel. The portraits to be 
 noticed are those of Morton, Bp. of 
 Durham (died 1659\ once a fellow 
 of the College ; Williams ( fellow ), 
 Abp. of York (d. 1650) ; Sir Ralph 
 Hare, who gave to the College (1G23) 
 the Rectory of Cherry Marham, in 
 Norfolk — this portrait is said to be 
 by Mark Gerrard ; Fisher, Bp. of 
 Rochester : Bentley, who died Master 
 of Trinity in 17-42, but was originally 
 of this College ; and the poet Words- 
 worth by Pickersgill. 
 
 A panelled ante-room and a fine 
 oak staircase lead to the Gallery 
 (dating from the end of the 16th 
 centy.) now used as the Combination 
 room. This gallery was included 
 in the Master's Lodge before the 
 l^resent lodge was built by Mr. Scott. 
 It is a striking apartment, though 
 part of its original length, as is evi- 
 dent from the ceiling (the plaster 
 mouldings of which are rich and 
 elaborate) has been panelled off into 
 separate rooms. Here are portraits 
 of Sir John Herschel, the astrono- 
 nomer ; J. C. Adams, Lowndean 
 Professor, the discoverer of Nep- 
 tune ; G. A. Selwyn, Bp. of Lich- 
 field ; W. Wilberforce ; and a very 
 good portrait of Dr. Parr, which once 
 belonged to himself. All were 
 members of St. John's. 
 
 The Library, which may be reach- 
 ed through the gallery, extends 
 along the N. side of the 3rd court. 
 It was built in 1624 at the cost of 
 2991Z., more than 2000Z. of which 
 were given by Williams, Abp. of 
 York. The room remains unaltered, 
 and is very picturesque, with its 
 tmibered roofs, its whitened walls, 
 and its cases of carved oak, black 
 with age, and having small folding 
 tablets on the fronts for containing 
 the list of books in each case. Prior 
 the poet (who had been a fellow) 
 and Thomas Baker, " Socius ejec- 
 tus," the historian of the College, be- 
 queathed their libraries to St. John's, 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Botite 1. — ;S'^ Jolin^s College. 
 
 335 
 
 There are here many early printed 
 books ; a vellum cojjy of Craumcr's, 
 or the ' Great Bible ' (1539), which 
 belonged to Cromwell, Earl of 
 Essex ; and a good collection of 
 early English service-books. Among 
 the MSS. is a magnificent coj^y of 
 the Gospels, of Irish work, and rich 
 in the peculiar Irish illuminations 
 of the 7th centy. The MS. ' Order 
 of the King's Coronation,' full of 
 Abp. Laud's notes, and ap^mrently 
 the book used by him at Charles 
 I.'s coronation, 1625; another ' Form ' 
 in Sancroft's writing, and used by 
 him at the coronation of James II. ; 
 and a third copy, which seems to 
 have been used by that king him- 
 self. A copy of Chrysostom's Ho- 
 milies written by Sir John Cheke, 
 and probably presented by him to 
 Edward VI., should also be noticed. 
 The Library also contains a copy of 
 the very rare ' Trattato ' of Aonio 
 Paleario, professor at Siena in 1584. 
 A descriptive catalogue of the MSS. 
 and scarce books here was drawn up 
 by the Eev. M. Cowie, and printed 
 by the Cambridge Antiquarian So- 
 ciety. 
 
 The Second Court of St. John's is 
 very uniform and picturesque, and 
 deserves attention as one of the few 
 courts in Cambridge which have 
 scarcely been changed at all since 
 their construction. It was begun in 
 1598, and the whole completed in 
 1602. The architect was Ealph 
 Simons (" architectus suse setatis per- 
 fectissimus," according to the inscrip- 
 tion on his picture in Emmanuel 
 College) ; and the greater part of 
 the cost was borne by Mary Caven- 
 dish, wife of Talbot, Earl of Shrews- 
 bury, although from her misfortunes 
 she was unable to contribute all she 
 had promised. On the W. side is a 
 good gateway tower, above which is 
 a statue of the Countess of Shrews- 
 bury presiding over her court as the 
 Lady Margaret looks down on hers. 
 The Third Court was finiished in 
 
 1624. The cloister on its W. side, 
 and the front to the river, are worth 
 notice. Early in the present centy. 
 it became necessary to enlarge the 
 college, and a Fourth Court, across 
 the river, was begun in 1827 and 
 completed in 1831. It is approached 
 by a covered bridge, the views from 
 which, up and down the river, are 
 curious and Dutch-like. The new 
 court has a cloister with a lofty en- 
 trance gateway on the S. side, and 
 on the N. a lantern tower rises above 
 the roof. The architects were Eick- 
 man, the well-known historian of 
 Gothic architecture, and one of its 
 earliest " restorers," and Hutchin- 
 son of Birmingham. The whole is 
 of stone, the tint of which, at first 
 not very agreeable, improves greatly 
 with age. The buildings are lofty 
 and massive, and although it may 
 be regretted that so imjiortant a 
 work was undertaken a little too 
 soon — before the princiijles of Gothic 
 had been thoroughly mastered — it 
 is nevertheless far from unpleasing, 
 and will always be interesting as an 
 early example of 19th centy. " re- 
 naissance." The best view of it is 
 from the grounds into which the 
 cloister gateway opens. The elms 
 in these grounds are very fine, espe- 
 cially 4 or 5 of perhaps 200 years' (?) 
 growth, near the river. Many, how- 
 ever, have fallen within the last few 
 years ; among others, one venerable 
 tree which "Wordsworth never failed 
 to visit whenever he was at Cam- 
 bridge. As an undergraduate he 
 had greatly loved these walks — 
 
 . . . " Whenever free to choose, 
 Did I by night frequent the College groves 
 And tributary walks." — Prelude, bk. iii. 
 
 Trinity College Library is best seen 
 from St. John's "Walks, which may 
 also be approached through the lane 
 which divides Trinity from St. 
 John's. At the end of this lane is 
 the old bridge of St. John's, with a 
 long elm avenue stretching away in 
 front of it. 
 
§36 
 
 Boufe 1. — Cambridge : 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 The old Master'' s Lodge was in the 
 NiE. angle of the second court, until 
 the present house, on the N. side of 
 the College, was built by Mr. G. G. 
 Scott, and completed in 1865. It is 
 an excellent adaptation of domestic 
 Gothic to modern needs and com- 
 forts, and contains some fine apart- 
 ments. A chimney-piece in the 
 hall (removed from the old Com- 
 bination Room) is said to have 
 been brought from Audley End. 
 The 'pictures are numerous, and 
 many are interesting as portraits, 
 though not otherwise of much value. 
 In the dining-room is a large pic- 
 ture of the foundress kneeling at 
 a desk, which can hardly be contem- 
 porary. She wears, as in all her 
 portraits, a half-monastic dress, 
 adopted, most probably, after her 
 profession as a " vowess" — (she made 
 a vow of chastity and single life on 
 the death of her husband the Earl 
 of Derby in 1504). This picture is 
 perhaps copied from a smaller half- 
 length (in the entrance-hall) hav- 
 ing inscribed on it her titles and 
 the date of her death. A small 
 head of Hen. VIII.; Bp. Fisher, 
 half-length (this portrait is assigned 
 to Holbein) ; Queen Elizabeth ; Anne 
 of Denmark, wife of Jas. I. ; Chas. I. 
 and his Queen ; George Villiers, 
 the 1st Duke of Buckingham, Chan- 
 cellor of the University from 1626 — 
 when he was elected, after great 
 opposition, by a majority of 6 votes 
 only — to his assassination in August, 
 1628 ; Robert Cecil, Earl of Salis- 
 bury, Chancellor of the University 
 from the fall of Essex in 160^ to 
 his death in 1612 ; Gondomar, the 
 Spanish Ambassador; The Lord 
 Keeper Egerton (the " Lord " of Mil- 
 ton's ' Comus'); Countess of Shrews- 
 bury (half-length, with fan) ; Chief 
 Justice Sir Robert Heath, the active 
 royalist and supporter of Chas. I., 
 d. in France, 1 649 ; Prince Charles 
 (afterwards Chas. I.) as Duke of 
 York, half-length; Morton, Bp. of 
 Durham ; Matthew Prior, the poet, 
 
 by Riijaud — deserve notice. Many 
 of these pictures are framed in 
 black, and are traditionally said to 
 have come from some royal collec- 
 tion, and to have been deposited in 
 the College in acknowledgment of 
 plate sent to Chas. I. A very fine 
 chair of carved oak, and some lesser 
 chairs of similar design, are also 
 remarkable, and seem to have had 
 the same history. (Dr. Beale, Master 
 of St. John's, was one of the heads — ■ 
 the others were the Master of Jesus 
 and the President of Queen's — sent 
 up to the Parliament as prisoners 
 by Cromwell in 1642, on account of 
 the part they had taken in forward- 
 ing tlie plate of the Colleges to the 
 king). In the hall are 2 portraits 
 of Lord Burleigh, one (holding a 
 staff) good. (Sir William Cecil, 1st 
 Lord Burleigh, was Chancellor of 
 the University from the accession 
 of Elizabeth in 1558 to his death, 
 August 4, 1598 J ; a small portrait 
 of the foundress, having on it the 
 date of her death, " Kalends of July, 
 1509 ; " Cowley, the poet ; and por- 
 traits of Lord Palmerston, and the 
 Dukes of Buccleugh and _Northum- 
 berland, both Chancellors of the 
 University. 
 
 Among the more distinguished 
 men who have belonged to St. 
 John's are— Sir Thomas Wyat, the 
 poet (d. 1542); Sir John Cheke, 
 fellow (d. 1557); Roger Ascham, 
 fellow (d. 1568) ; Greene, the dra- 
 matist (d. 1592) ; Cecil, Lord Bur- 
 leigh, Chancellor of the University ; 
 Thomas Cartwright, the well-known 
 Puritan leader, afterwards Fellow 
 of Trinity (d. 1603); Robert Cecil, 
 Earl of Salisbury, Chancellor of 
 the University (d. 1612) ; Thomas 
 Howard, Earl of Suffolk, the builder 
 of Audley End, Chancellor (d. 
 1626); Wentworth, Earl of Straf- 
 ford, Charles I.'s Earl (d. 1641); 
 Lucius Cary, Lord Falkland (d. 
 1643) ; John Williams, fellow, Abp. 
 of York (d. 1650); Herrick, the 
 poet (d. 1674) ; Titus Gates, the in- 
 
Cambridge, ^oiite 1. — Gonvillc and Cams College. 
 
 337 
 
 famous (d. 1705) ; William Bcve- 
 ridge, Bp. of St. Asaph (d. 1737) ; 
 Matthew Prior, fellow (d. 1721); 
 Beutley, Master of Trinity ; Charles 
 Churchill, the poet (d. 1764) ; Aken- 
 side, the poet (d. 1770) ; Darwin, 
 the poet (d. 1802); Henry Kirke 
 Whife (d. 1806); John Horno 
 Tooko (d. 1812) ; Henry Martyn, the 
 missionary (d. 1812) ; Samuel Parr 
 (d. 1825); AVilliam Wilberforce (d. 
 1833); and William Wordsworth 
 (d. 1850). (Wordsworth began re- 
 sidence in 1787, took his degree and 
 left Cambridge in 1791). It may 
 be said that St. John's has edu- 
 cated an imusual number of poets 
 and of great statesmen. The list of 
 bishops nurtured in this College is 
 also a long one. 
 
 A lane divides Trinity from Caius 
 College, opposite which (on the E. 
 side of Trinity-street) is St. Mi- 
 chael's Ch. (see Churches, post). 
 
 Gonville and Cains College is so 
 called from its 2 founders, but is 
 best known as Caius College (pron. 
 Keys). The old buildings of Caius 
 wx'll deserve notice, but this college 
 has been greatly altered and en- 
 larged of late years. The hall was 
 built by Salvin in 1854, and in 1867 
 tlie New Court was begun, which 
 fronts the main street, and is one 
 of the most conspicuous and orna- 
 mental buildings of the University. 
 This Court, the Hall, and the Chapel, 
 with the Gates of the old buildings, 
 are the points of interest in Caius. 
 T%is College, following the disposi- 
 tion of its second founder, John 
 Caius, physician to Edw. VI. and to 
 Queen Mary, has always been the 
 medical college of the University, 
 and has produced some very eminent 
 physicians. 
 
 The first founder was Edmund 
 de Gonville, a member of a power- 
 ful Norfolk family, rector of Rush- 
 worth in Norfolk, where he esta- 
 blished a college, and rector of 
 
 'iEssex, &C.'] 
 
 Terrington in the same county, 
 where he died in 1350. In 1348 
 he founded a college in Cambridge, 
 but, dying before its completion, 
 left the care of it to William Bate- 
 man, Bishop of Norwich, the founder 
 of Trinity Hall. The first site 
 was close to Corpus Christi Col- 
 lege, but in 1353 the College was 
 removed to its present situation. 
 In 1557 Dr. Caius obtained autho- 
 rity to refound it, wliich he did 
 accordingly, procuring much addi- 
 tional ground and erecting new 
 buildings. 
 
 The principal entrance to the Col- 
 lege is (or will be, it is not (in 1870) 
 finished) beneath a lofty tower, part 
 of the New Court, fronting the 
 Senate House. The architect of this 
 New Court is Mr. Waterhouse. The 
 style is French Eenaissance, belong- 
 ing to the same date as the Italian 
 Renaissance which api^ears in the 
 buildings of Dr. Caius. Whatever 
 may be said as to the propriety of 
 adopting this style, there can be no 
 doubt that the interior of the court 
 especially is very striking and pic- 
 turesque, and that the whole mass 
 of building is an addition of decided 
 beauty to the stately group, of vari- 
 ous dates, assembled in this part of 
 Cambridge. The exterior of the 
 court, which faces Trinity Street for 
 some distance, is not well seen. The 
 street is too narrow, and the effect 
 of design and ornamentation is com- 
 jwratively lost. The row of j^ro- 
 jecting heads represents the prin- 
 cipal worthies of the College, each 
 with his name inscribed below. 
 Within, the court is divided into 
 tw^o by a low parapetted wall. One 
 of these divisions contains some fine 
 trees which contrast well with the 
 building. The N.E. angle of the 
 other is a most successful composi- 
 tion. The spiral staircase is de- 
 signed after the well-known exam- 
 ples at Blois and Chambord, both of 
 the time of Francis I. All this part 
 of the building is very striking, and 
 
338 Bte. l. — Cambridge: Gonville and Caius College; Sect. IV. 
 
 at once seizes the attention. The 
 colour of the stone throughout is 
 pleasing. The sets of rooms arc 
 well arranged, with good wide win- 
 dows. 
 
 The apsidal end of the chapel, on 
 the "W. side of the court is new. A 
 passage, at its side, leads into the 
 smaller court of the old College, 
 known as Caius Court. This court 
 was entirely built by Dr. Caius, be- 
 tween 1564 and 1573. The archi- 
 tect was Theodore Have, or Havenius 
 of Cleves, and the College, with its 
 gateways, as finished by him, was 
 " the most complete specimen of 
 classical art at that time to be seen 
 in England." Two of these gateways 
 remain in Caius Court ; the gates, 
 so called, of Honour and of Virtue. 
 The "Gate of Honour," now almost 
 shrouded in ivy, fronts the schools. 
 It was erected in 1574, " and is one 
 of the most pleasing as well as one 
 of the most advanced specimens of 
 the early Kenaissance in England. 
 Although its arch is slightly pointed, 
 and the details far from being pure, 
 the general design is very perfect. 
 Owing to its greater height and 
 variety of outline, it groups much 
 more pleasingly with modern build- 
 ings than many of the more purely 
 classical triumphal arches Avhich 
 since that time have adorned most 
 of the capital cities of Europe." — 
 Fenjusson. The "Gate of Virtue 
 and Wisdom " is that which opens 
 to the New Court. It is surmounted 
 by a low tower, and a peculiar turret 
 rises beside it. The rooms above 
 this gateway were occupied by Dr. 
 Caius himself, whilst he remained 
 Master of the College. The third 
 gate, " The Gate of Humility," was 
 in the Outer Court, removed to make 
 way for the new building. It has 
 been preserved and incorporated in 
 the new work. The view from 
 Caius Court toward the schools, 
 with the "Gate of Honour" in front, 
 its very pleasing. 
 
 The Inner Court, faced with stone 
 
 in the last centy., is known as Gon- 
 ville Court. Between the 2 courts is 
 the Chapel. This has been crowned 
 by a new bell- and stair - turret, 
 rather of French than Italian Ke- 
 naissance. The Chapel itself seems 
 to have been first built towai;d the 
 close of the 14th centy., but has 
 been cased (circ. 1719) with stone, 
 has modern windows, was enlarged 
 in 1637, wdien the present roof was 
 placed on it ; was further " beauti- 
 fied" in 1719, and a new E. end was 
 added in 1868. After all these 
 changes, the interior is very pleas- 
 ing. The eastern apse is filled with 
 modern stained glass, and the quaint 
 but excellent monuments of Dr. 
 Caius and Dr. Perse, placed in tlio 
 wall nearly opposite each other, 
 have been restored and touched 
 with gold and colour. Dr. Caius 
 died in London, June 29, 1573. His 
 body was brought to Cambridge, and 
 met at Trumpington Ford by the 
 Vice-Chancellor and a long proces- 
 sion. It was buried in the College 
 chapel. His monument, at first on 
 the ground above his vault, was re- 
 moved to its present position in 
 1637. It is a sarcophagus of ala- 
 baster, under a canopy, thoroughly 
 classical in detail, and perhaps de- 
 signed by Havenius. The inscrip- 
 tions run — " Vivit, post funera Vir- 
 tus," "Fui Caius," with his age 
 (63) and the date of his death. Caius, 
 born at Norwich in 1510, studied at 
 Padua, at Pisa, at Paris and else- 
 where, and was very eminent as a 
 Greek scholar, a physician, and an 
 antiquary. He maintained the an- 
 tiquity of the University of Cam- 
 bridge against the rival claims of 
 Oxford, much marvellous learning 
 and edifying assertion being brought 
 into the controversy on either side ; 
 and his book, ' De Canibus Britan- 
 nicis,' is curious. He was charged, 
 as master of his college, with show- 
 ing " a perverse stomach to the pro- 
 fessors of the Gospel," and a large 
 collection of ecclesiastical vegtnaents, 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boute 1.— TAe Senate House. 
 
 339 
 
 books, and church ornaments which 
 he had preserved in his rooms, were 
 by the authority of the proctors 
 burnt and broken to pieces. The 
 monuments [yfith kneeling ligures) 
 of Dr. Legge, Master (d. 1607), and 
 of Dr. Perse (d. 1615), should be no- 
 ticed, and their quaint inscriptions 
 read. Dr. Perse was founder of the 
 Free Grammar School at Cam- 
 bridge. 
 
 The Hall, reached from the Inner 
 Court, was built by Salvin in 1854. 
 It is very picturesque, Jacobean in 
 character, with a low hammer-beam 
 roof. Of the pictures the best are — 
 Dr. Caius, holding his gloves, with 
 a carnation stuck into them; Dr. 
 Harvey (d. 1657), discoverer of the 
 circulation of the blood (copy from 
 Jansen's picture in the College of 
 Physicians) ; Jeremy Taylor (copy 
 from the All Souls portrait) ; Baron 
 Alderson, by Eddis ; Kirby the en- 
 tomologist, by Philli-ps ; and Bishop 
 Mackenzie, by Richmond. 
 
 In the Combination Boom are 3 
 portraits assigned to Holbein (?) 
 They represent Mistress Jean Trap- 
 pes and her husband, and Jocosa 
 Frankland, all founders of scholar- 
 ships. Here is also another por- 
 trait of Caius, not so genuine as that 
 in the hall. 
 
 The Library is chiefly noticeable 
 for a large collection of heraldic 
 MSS. 
 
 In the Master's Lodge is a por- 
 trait of Harvey by Reiribrandt (?) 
 ODQe of Dr. Smith, Master, by Sir J. 
 Reynolds ; and 2 of other Masters, 
 by Opie. 
 
 Dr. Butts, physician to Henry 
 VIII., was of this College. Besides 
 other famous physicians and other 
 members already noticed, should be 
 recorded Sir Thomas Gresham, 
 founder of the Exchange (d. 1579) ; 
 Judge Jeffreys (d. 1689) ; Shadwell, 
 the dramatist (d. 1692) ; Wharton, of 
 the ' Anglia Sacra' (d. 1695); Prince, 
 author of the ' Worthies of Devon ' 
 
 (d. 1723) ; Jeremy Collier, of ' The 
 Church History ' (d. 1726) ; Blome- 
 field, of the ' History of Norfolk ' (d. 
 1752); Lord Chancellor Thurlow (d. 
 1806); Dr. Wollaston (d. 1828); 
 William Wilkins, the architect of 
 King's (d. 1839) ; and J. Hookham 
 Frcre (d. 1846). 
 
 The College possesses a mace, 
 given by Dr. Caius, and called 
 " Caduceus prudentis gubernationis." 
 It is of silver, 2| ft. long, crowned 
 with 4 serpents. It was, according 
 to the founder's order, to be carried 
 before the Master in all solemn pro- 
 cessions, together with the " Liber 
 cognitionis " and the " Pulvinus re- 
 verentise." 
 
 In a line with Caius College, but 
 separated from it by a lane, are the 
 Senate House and the University 
 Library. 
 
 The Senate House (answering to 
 the Sheldonian Theatre at Oxford) 
 was begun in 1722, and was opened 
 at the grand Commencement of July, 
 1730, when Pope's 'Ode for St. 
 Cecilia's Day,' set to music by 
 Greene, was performed. Th^ archi- 
 tect was James Gibbs, and the de- 
 sign (though inferior) is not on the 
 whole unworthy of his more famous 
 productions — the Ch. of St. Martin's- 
 in-the-Fields and the Eadcliffe Li- 
 l^rary at Oxford. The interior is 
 fine, with an enriched ceiling, and 
 statues of George I. (Rysbrack) ; 
 George II. ( Wilton) ; Duke of So- 
 merset (the " proud Duke," elected 
 Chancellor of the University in 
 1688 after the accession of William 
 and Mary — he held the ofiice for 
 nearly 60 years) (Rysbrack) ; and 
 William Pitt, High Steward of the 
 University, and long its representa- 
 tive in Parliament (Nollekens). 
 
 The Senate House was only part 
 of Gibbs's design. There were to 
 have been a corresjionding building 
 opposite, and a connecting centre. 
 These were never executed. 
 
 The entrance to the Schools and 
 Q 2 
 
340 Boute 1. — Camhridge: The TJmversiti) Library ; Sect. IV. 
 
 to the University Library is through 
 the arcade which runs N. and S. at 
 right angles to the Senate House. 
 In front of the enclosure is a bronze 
 model of the Warwick Vase, given 
 by the Duke of Northumberland in 
 1842. 
 
 The Scliooh form a small quad- 
 rangle, the upper story of which is 
 appropriated to the Library. The 
 Divinity Lecture Kooms are on theE. 
 side, immediately at the back of the 
 arcade; the Arts School (used by 
 Professors for lectures) is W. ; and 
 the Law School (also used by Pro- 
 fessors) is on the S, side. Schools on 
 this site were begun in the 14th 
 centy., and there are ancient frag- 
 ments in the present buildings, but 
 there is nothing in the rooms them- 
 selves to attract the visitor. 
 
 The University Library (open 
 daily from 10 to 4. Strangers must 
 be accompanied by a member of the 
 University. For other rules, see 
 fost) is entered by a staircase at the 
 S. W. corner of the arcade. It oc- 
 cupies the upper story of each side 
 of the quadrangle, as well as the 
 ground lioor of the N. side. Con- 
 nected with, and entered from, this 
 N. side is the new building erected 
 by Mr. Cockerell between 1837 and 
 1842, the E. end of which is in a 
 line with the Senate House, the W. 
 end fronts Trinity Hall. Cockerell's 
 building thus extends far beyond 
 the W. side of the old schools, and 
 forms the N. side of a new court, 
 occupying the site of the old court of 
 King's. On the S. side of this coin-t 
 a further addition to the Library 
 has been erected within the last few 
 years by Mr. G. G. Scott. 
 
 The Cambridge University Li- 
 brary (entitled, like the Bodleian 
 and the British Museum, to a copy 
 of every new book pul)lished in the 
 kingdom) is perhaps the most prac- 
 tically useful library in Europe. It 
 differs from the Bodleian, and from 
 all other public libraries, in being 
 
 open throughout. All the books 
 are accessible, and all may be 
 handled at will. They are arranged 
 in distinct classes — Divinity, Law, 
 History, Biography, &c. — an ar- 
 rangement which, with entire free- 
 dom of insijection, makes the mere 
 examination of a book-case instruc- 
 tive. Any book can be taken out 
 of the Library, and may be kept 
 for a quarter of a year. These privi- 
 leges can only be claimed by members 
 of the University, but persons living 
 in the town are readily permitted 
 to use the Library. New books are 
 placed together on a desk for a short 
 time before circulation. Thus all 
 the books are made of service, unlike 
 the system of the Bodleian, where 
 the newer books are practically use- 
 less. Here even the novels are cir- 
 culated. The number of volumes is 
 about 250,000. 
 
 Cardinal Laugley, Bp. of Dur- 
 ham, who died in 1437, is the first 
 ]3erson recorded as a donor of books 
 to the University. Books and MSS. 
 were given by Cuthbert Tunstall, 
 Bp. of Durham, and by Matthew 
 Parker, Abp. of Canterbury. A 
 large collection of Oriental MSS. 
 made by Erpenius, and bought by 
 the 1st Duke of Buckingham for 
 presentation to the University, was 
 given by his widow^, after his assas- 
 sination. Kichard Holdsworth, Dean 
 of AVorcester (d. 1649), left by will 
 more than 10,000 volumes. A col- 
 lection of Greek and Oriental MSS. 
 was given in 1655 by Nicholas Ho- 
 bart. Edmund Castell, Professor of 
 Arabic (d. 1685), left by will to the 
 University all his Oriental MSS. 
 In 1715 George I. gave the library 
 of John Moore, Bp. of Ely, which he 
 liad bought for 6000Z. It contained 
 30,755 vols., 1790 of which were 
 MSS. (This was the gift whicli 
 produced the famous epigrams, the 
 second of which is singularly terse 
 and pointed, and was much com- 
 mended by Dr. Johnson. About the 
 time when Bishop Moore's library 
 
Camdridge. Boute l.-^The University Library. 
 
 341 
 
 was sent to Cambridge, a squadron 
 of horse was despatched to Oxford 
 to seize certain Jacobite officers who 
 were harboured there. The Oxford 
 epigram (possibly by Warton, after- 
 wards Professor of Poetry) ran 
 accordingly — 
 
 " The king observing with judicious eyes, 
 The state of both his Universities, 
 To one he sends a regiment ; for why ? 
 That learned body wanted loyalty. 
 To the other, books he gave, as well dis- 
 cerning 
 How much that loyal body wanted learn- 
 ing." 
 
 The retort (by Sir William Browne) 
 was as follows : — 
 
 " The king to Oxford sent his troop of horse ; 
 For Tories own no argument but force. 
 With equal care to Cambridge books he 
 
 sent ; 
 Fof Whigs allow no force but argument.' ') 
 
 These are some of the principal 
 donations. Large sums have been 
 spent by the University at different 
 times on the Library and its build- 
 ings, and considerable subscriptions 
 have been made for the same pur- 
 pose. 
 
 The books are arranged in the 
 various divisions of the building, the 
 long series of Catalogues being in 
 the room on the N. side of the old 
 quadrangle, which served as the 
 Senate House before Gibbs's build- 
 ing was erected. By a reference to 
 these catalogues the place of any 
 book in the Library may be readily 
 found. The oak fittings and ceiling 
 of the E. Room (built 1775) are 
 good, and deserve notice. The ceil- 
 ing of the N. Room has on it the 
 arms of John Jegon, Master of 
 Cains College and Bj). of Norwich, 
 (d. 1618). A passage from the Cata- 
 logue Room leads to the New Li- 
 rary designed by Mr. Cockerell — a 
 very noble room, 167 ft. long, 36 ft. 
 high, and 45 ft. wide. In this room 
 is the Law Library, and a great col- 
 lection of Divinity. At the W. end 
 some MSS. are exhibited under, 
 
 glass, including a very fine MS. of 
 Wickliffe's Bible on vellum. There 
 are also some early printed books, 
 among which is the first Caxton. 
 But the great MS. treasure of the 
 Library is displayed in this room, in 
 a separate case. This is the famous 
 ' Codex Bezae,' a MS. of the Gosjiels 
 and Acts of the Apostles, in Greek 
 and Latin, given to the University 
 by Theodore Beza himself in 1581. 
 Beza obtained it after the sack of 
 St. Irenseus' monastery at Lyons 
 by the Huguenots in 1562. This 
 MS. was edited in 1793 by Dr. Kip- 
 ling, and in 1864 (with a copious 
 introduction) by the Rev. F. H. 
 Scrivener. It is one of the 5 great 
 uncial MSS. of the Gospels, dating 
 late in the 5th or early in the 6th 
 century, and is the most ancient of 
 those which have a Latin transla- 
 tion set in the opposite page, over 
 against the original Greek. Its 
 readings differ more widely than 
 those of any other known MS. from 
 the common text. It lies open at a 
 page which contains the following 
 remarkable addition to Luke vi. 4 : 
 " The same day, seeing one working 
 on the Sabbath, He said unto him, 
 Man, blessed art thou if thou 
 knowest what thou art doing; but 
 cursed, if thou knowest not." 
 
 It was intended that Cockerell's 
 building should have formed one 
 side of a new library, to be built on 
 the same magnificent scale. This 
 scheme was abandoned on account 
 of the great cost. Mr. Scott's 
 work, on the opposite side of the 
 old court of King's (entered from 
 the first room of the Old Library), 
 is of very different character, with 
 long ranges of narrow windows, 
 somewhat resembling the Dormi- 
 tory, or perhaps Scriptorium, of a 
 Benedictine monastery. In this part 
 of the building are at present de- 
 posited the 'pictures belonging to the 
 Library. Among them are a curious 
 portrait of (probably) Henry VII., 
 holding a pink. (This has usually 
 
342 
 
 Bouie 1. — Cambridge: Trinity Hall; 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 been called Erasmus; the back- 
 ground has been painted over, but 
 is really diapered in gold). Cecil, 
 Lord Burleigh, and his son Kobert, 
 Earl of Salisbury, both Chancellors 
 of the University ; Queen Elizabeth 
 (curious) ; Charles I., as prince ; a 
 good portrait ofPorson, by Hoppner ; 
 Koger Gale; and John Nicholson, a 
 bookseller of Cambridge, commonly 
 called " Maps," by Beinagle. 
 
 At the back of Caius College is 
 Trinity Hall, which, although a 
 very early foundation, contains little 
 of interest to the stranger. (It alone 
 retains the name of Hall. The 
 other ancient Halls — St. Catherine's, 
 Clare, Pembroke — have changed 
 their old title and have become Col- 
 leges.) It was founded in 1350 by 
 William Bateman, Bp. of Norwich, 
 under the name of the " Hall of the 
 Holy Trinity of Norwich," and 
 many Benedictines from the great 
 Norwich convent were sent here to 
 be educated. The famous Gar- 
 diner, Bj). of Winchester, was Master 
 here, and retained the Mastership 
 till his death, saying that " if all 
 his palaces were blown down by 
 iniquity, he would creep honestly 
 into that shell." Among others of 
 its students are to be reckoned 
 Tusser of the ' Agriculture ' (d. 
 1580) ; Holinshed, the chronicler (d. 
 1580); Carte, the historian (d. 1754) ; 
 Lord Fitzwilliam, founder of the 
 Fitzwilliam Museum (d. 1816); 
 Archdeacon Wrangham (d. 1842); 
 and John Stirling, happy in his two 
 biographers — Carlyle and Arch- 
 deacon Hare (d. 1844). The present 
 I^iord Ly tton was educated at Trinity 
 Hall. 
 
 The buildings of Trinity Hall, 
 although they may contain some 
 ancient portions, have all been 
 modernised or rebuilt. The front 
 (toward the street) was destroyed 
 by lire m 1852, and was rebuilt 
 from a design by Salvin. The Clicqn'l 
 was refitted in 1729. The old Hall 
 
 was pulled down in 1743, when the 
 present hall was erected. It con- 
 tains a i)ortrait of Sir Nathanael 
 Lloyd, Master, who did much for 
 the College, and a bust of Lord 
 IMaiisfield by Nollehens. From this 
 bust the figure on the monument in 
 Westminster Alibey was designed. 
 Tliere are some portraits in the 
 Combination Boom, including one of 
 Lord Chesterfield (the letter writer) 
 by Hoare. Trinity Hall possesses 
 an interesting founder's cup, which 
 is no doubt the oldest piece of plate 
 remaining in the University. At 
 the bottom of the cujj, which is 
 small, have been enamels, including 
 the founder's arms — sable, a crescent 
 argent. There is also a fine stand- 
 ing cup of silver gilt, perhaps of 
 French workmanship, given by Wil- 
 liam Barlow, Bp. of Lincoln (1608- 
 1613). 
 
 The Garden Court, at the back of 
 the College, has one of its sides 
 covered with ivy, and is not unjDic- 
 turesque. The upper range of win- 
 dows on this side are those of the 
 Library. This is rich in ancient 
 law, but its chief treasure is the 
 MS. of Thomas of Elmham's ' His- 
 toria Monasterii S. August. Can- 
 tuar.' It was given to the College 
 by Eobert Hare, a Cambridge ar- 
 chajologiat, who died in 1611, on the 
 condition entered on the first page, 
 that if ever the monastery should be 
 rebuilt the MS. should be restored 
 "monachis." It was edited in 1858 
 by the late Archdeacon Hardwick 
 for the Rolls series. 
 
 In the Garden of Trinity Hall, 
 which is entered from this court, 
 are some very fine horse-chesnuts, 
 the largest of their kind in Cam- 
 bridge. These trees, close in the 
 view in their direction from liing's 
 Bridge (see post). 
 
 In a line with, and S., of Trinity 
 Hall is 
 
 Clare College, one of the oldest 
 collegiate foundations in Cambridge 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boute 1. — Clare College. 
 
 343 
 
 (the 2 earlier were St. Peter's and 
 Michael-house, now incorporated in 
 Trinity), although its present build- 
 ings are all of the 17th centy. It 
 was founded (or its first foundation 
 was made permanent) by Elizabeth 
 de Clare, ord daughter of Gilbert 
 de Clare, Earl of Gloucester and 
 Hertford, by his wife Joan of Acres, 
 daughter of Edward I. She became 
 one of the 3 heiresses of the great 
 liouse of Clare, and died in 1360. The 
 Chancellor, Eichard de Badow, and 
 the University, had together, under 
 letters patent of Edw. II., founded a 
 college in 1326. Its revenue proved 
 insufficient, and the lady of Clare 
 then took it under her protection, 
 made numerous grants to it, pro- 
 vided it with a code of statutes, and 
 changed its name from University 
 Hall to Clare College. Clare has pro- 
 duced some distinguished scholars, 
 among whom were Bp. Latimer,burut 
 at Oxford in 1555 ; Nicholas Fer- 
 rar, of ' Little Gidding ' (d. 1637) ; 
 C'udworth, the metaphysician (Mas- 
 ter, d. 1688) ; Abp. Tillotson (d. 
 1694) ; Whiston, the translator of 
 Josephus (d. 1752) ; Hervey, of the 
 'Meditations' (d. 1758); Cole, the 
 antiquary and correspondent of Wal- 
 pole (d. 1782). In this college was 
 acted, before James I., the famous 
 play of ' Ignoramus,' written by 
 George Kuggle, one of the fellows. 
 The King made a second visit to 
 Cambridge, to see it repeated. 
 Another play acted hereabout 1597, 
 called ' Club Law,' was a mockery 
 of the mayor " with his brethren 
 and their wives," who were invited 
 to see it, and obliged to behold 
 themselves "in their own best 
 clothes, which the scholars had 
 borrowed, so lively personated " that 
 the offence came before the Privy 
 Council. 
 
 The exterior of Clare is the chief 
 sight for the xisitor. The college 
 was burnt in 1362, rebuilt, again 
 much injured by fire in 1525, and 
 
 what remained waf? taken down 
 about 1638, when the present build- 
 ings were begun. The work was 
 stopped by the civil war, renewed 
 after the Eestoration, and not finished 
 until 1715. One design, however, 
 seems to have been kept — and tho 
 single court of which the college 
 consists is perhaps the most pleasing 
 in the University— exhibiting the 
 architecture of the 17th centy. " with 
 more purity and grace than almost 
 any other example that can be 
 named The court is inter- 
 nally 150 ft. long by 111 broad. 
 Though strongly marked horizontal 
 lines prevail everywhere, the vertical 
 mode of accentuation is also pre- 
 served, and both are found here in 
 exactly those proportions which in- 
 dicate the interior arrangements. 
 The size and decoration of the win- 
 drows are also in good taste, and in 
 perfect keeping with the destination 
 of the building," — Fergusson. The 
 gateway toward the street, with its 
 quaint, lantern-like windows, and 
 the fine river front, should be espe- 
 cially noticed. The Chapel, conse- 
 crated in 1769, was designed by Sir 
 James Burrough, then Master of 
 Caius. It is not very excellent. 
 The altar-piece is by Cipriani. The 
 Hall calls for no special notice. In 
 the Combination Room is a portrait 
 of Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter 
 (eldest son of the great Lord Bur- 
 leigh), by Mirevelt ; one of Abp. 
 Tillotson; and a full-length of the 
 Duke of Newcastle, Chancellor of 
 the University. The Library con- 
 tains one of the rare folio Bibles of 
 Sixtus V. 
 
 The Poison Cup of Clare is kept 
 in the Master's Lodge, and is curi- 
 ous and beautiful. It is a small 
 covered tankard, of glass, enclosed 
 within open work of silver filigree. 
 On the cover is a mysterious stone, 
 which, it was believed, would split 
 if poison were in the cup. It is 
 generally said to have been a gift of 
 
344 Boiite 1.— Cambridge : Geological 3fuseum ; Sect. lY. 
 
 the foundress, but was really given 
 by Dr. Butter, a fellow, who in the 
 17th centy. made several i^resents to 
 the College, including a gold chalice 
 for the chapel. 
 
 Beyond the court, a bridge crosses 
 the river, and opens to a very beau- 
 tiful avenue of elm-trees. An iron 
 gate at the end of the avenue leads 
 into a meadow called '' Clare Piece," 
 whence there is a very good view of 
 King's College and its chapel. 
 
 It has been supposed that Clare 
 College was the " Solere Hall " men- 
 tioned by Chaucer in the ' Eeve's 
 Tale.' Chaucer had himself be- 
 longed to Solere Hall, and he makes 
 " Johan and Alayn " in his story, 
 scholars there. Mr. Cooper con- 
 siders that Solere Hall was " Garret 
 Hostel," which stood near the place 
 now called Garret Hostel Lane, be- 
 tween Trinity Hall and Trinity Col- 
 lege. 
 
 Nearly opposite the front of Clare 
 is the mutilated gateivay of the old 
 court of King's College, sold to the 
 University about 1824. The build- 
 ings of the court were then taken 
 down, the gateway half demolished, 
 and an addition to the University 
 Library on the N. side was soon 
 after begun, and was completed from 
 Cockerell's designs, in 1842. The 
 remaining portion of the old gate- 
 way is unusually graceful, and will, 
 it may be hoped, be eventually 
 worked into a fitting entrance for 
 the present court. This court, in 
 the lower part of the Cockerell 
 building, now contains the Wood- 
 ward Ian or Geological Museum, open 
 daily from 10 to 4. 
 
 This Museum, now comprising 
 many fine and distinct collections, 
 arose from the bequest of Dr. Wood- 
 ward, who died in 1728, and left by 
 will his cabinets of English fossils 
 to the University. His foreign col- 
 lections were afterwards bought. A 
 chair, called tliat of the " Wood- 
 wardian Professor of Greology," 
 
 Avas established. Other collections, 
 among them those of the 2 AVood- 
 wardian Profes.sors, Green and Hail- 
 stone, were acquired ; and the zeal 
 and incessant labour of the pre- 
 sent venerable Professor Sedgwick, 
 who has occupied the geological 
 chair since 1818, have made the 
 Museum what it now is, one of the 
 most interesting and instructive in 
 England. The cabinets are for the 
 most part thoroughly well arranged. 
 Only a few of the most imi^ortant 
 specimens can be noticed here. The 
 visitor will do well to give his chief 
 attention to the fine examples from 
 the Cambridgeshire fens and gravel 
 beds. There are in the W. Koom 
 some good flint implements from 
 Hoxne and Thetford, contrasted 
 with others from the Amiens gravel. 
 Eemark, especially, the relics of 
 JBos primigenius from the Isleham 
 fens ; another sj^ecimen from Bur- 
 well with a broken celt remaining 
 in the skull ; horns of red deer ; a 
 fine head of roebuck, and part of a 
 roebuck's jaw with the teeth in it ,• 
 wild boar; otter (very rare in the 
 fens) ; wolf from Denver ; the skull 
 of a bear from Manea (not to be dis- 
 tinguished from Ursus Arctos) ; 
 many bones of beaver, including a 
 nearly perfect skeleton from Little- 
 port. All these are fen relics. From 
 the gravel beds of Barnwell and 
 Cray ford are bones of Elephas primi- 
 genius and Elephas antiquus ; the 
 Irish elk, including the upper part 
 of skull with attachment of horns 
 (unique) ; Hippopotamus major, from 
 the site of the old Botanic Gardens ; 
 teeth of rhinoceros ; bison from 
 Peterborough, and the very large 
 vertebrae of a whale from the gravel 
 at Milton, 
 
 The Fletcher collection (Silurian 
 fossils) ; some very fine fossil fish 
 and reptiles in enclosed compart- 
 ments at the W. end of the large 
 room, including a Lepidotus from 
 the AVhitby lias, and Pentacrinus 
 siihangularis from the lias of Lyme 
 
Cambridge. Bte. 1. — Marketplace; King's College. 
 
 345 
 
 Kegis ; fossils from the lower Bag- 
 shot sand ; a fine elephant from the 
 Norfolk Forest bed ; fossils from 
 Hordwell (a better collection than 
 any in the country except that in the 
 British Museum — the mud-tortoise 
 and palm-leaves should be specially 
 noticed) ; fine Crustacea, and part of 
 a very large snake from Sheppey, 
 and Cyprxa tuberculosa from Brack- 
 lesham, all call for attention. 
 
 The Forbes Young Collection, 
 principally from the chalk, is ex- 
 ceedingly rich in echinodermata, fish, 
 and Crustacea. There are also fine 
 examples from the Solenhofen slate, 
 a fine Plesiosaurus from Whitby, 
 and impressed crocodilian footsteps 
 from Chester. 
 
 In the Museum are a portrait of 
 Dr. Woodward, and a chalk head of 
 Professor Sedgwick by Dickenson. 
 
 Eeturning into Trumpington- 
 street, Great St. Blarifs Ch. (see 
 Churches, post) is conspicuous on the 
 opposite side of the street. The 
 passage beside it leads into the 
 Market Place, where is a statue of 
 Jonas Webb of Babraham (d. 1862), 
 " erected by farmers and friends in 
 many lands." Webb was a great 
 sheep-farmer, and did much to im- 
 prove the breed in the neighbour- 
 hood. There is a daily market 
 here, where the curious may inspect 
 Cambridge butter, every pound of 
 which is rolled and di'awn out to a 
 yard in length ; and where the ex- 
 cellent cheeses of Cotienham (Ete. 
 3) may be bought. 
 
 The part of Trumpington-street 
 fronting King's College is known 
 as King's Parade. It contains some 
 good shops, and is much such an 
 afternoon lounge as the High-street 
 in Oxford. 
 
 The great Chapel of King's Col- 
 lege, dominating the town as it docs, 
 is the most celebrated of all the 
 buildings in the University, and is 
 uncjuestionably the finest. The 
 
 Chapel, is however, the only part of 
 the College which deserves much 
 attention, for although the other 
 buildings are imposing (and the 
 Hall should be seen) they are all 
 modern, and of very indifferent 
 character. (Choral service in the 
 Chapel, open to all, is at 4 p.m. ; on 
 Sundays at 3-30. After seeing the 
 Chapel, the visitor should walk by 
 the lawn to King's Bridge, across 
 the Cam. The view is very strik- 
 ing. See post). 
 
 King's College was founded by the 
 " royal saint," Henry VI., at first (in 
 1440) as a small independent college, 
 on the same scale as those already 
 existing in the University ; after- 
 wards (in 1443) on a much larger 
 scale, and in immediate connection 
 with the college founded in the same 
 year by him at Eton ; from which 
 place the scholars, when sufficiently 
 advanced, were to be transferred to 
 the new " King's College " of Our 
 Lady and St. Nicholas in Cam- 
 bridge. The first example of such 
 a double foundation — one college 
 supplementing the other — had been 
 set by William of Wykeham, whose 
 2 establishments, at Winchester and 
 at New College, Oxford, were set on 
 foot in 1373. These were directly 
 imitated by Henry VI., who removed 
 Waynflete from his jjlace as Master 
 of Winchester to make him the first 
 Master and then Provost of Eton. 
 In 1446 Waynflete provided the 
 first code of statutes for King's 
 College, almost a copy of those by 
 which New College at Oxford was 
 ruled. (Waynflete himself, after he 
 became Bp. of Winchester in 1447, 
 founded Magdalene College, Oxford, 
 a magnificent endowment, which, 
 with all its surroundings, remains 
 the most perfect and the most beau- 
 tiful college in the world). Some 
 prescience of a great coming change, 
 it has been suggested, must have 
 been felt by Wykeham and Wayn- 
 flete, as well as by their successors. 
 Fox and (of course) Wolsey, when 
 
 Q*3 
 
346 
 
 Itoute 1. — Cambridge: King's College; Sect. IV. 
 
 they appropriated great wealth to 
 the foundation of colleges, rather 
 than of monasteries ; and it can 
 hardly be doubted that some wise 
 Clmrchman suggested the design of 
 Henry YI. in his 2 foundations. 
 The religious mind of Henry must 
 also have been influenced by the 
 desire to reappropriate, in some 
 fitting manner, the lands and pro- 
 perty which had been placed in the 
 hands of the Crown on the dissolu- 
 tion of the alien priories in 1414. 
 Eton and King's College were to a 
 great extent endowed from this 
 source. King's College was ex- 
 empted from the jurisdiction of the 
 Abp. and the Bp. of Ely, and was 
 partly freed from that of the 
 Chancellor of the University. Until 
 1851, when it voluntarily resigned 
 the privilege, its members could 
 claim to j^roceed as B.A. after 
 private examination in their own 
 College. It is still entirely confined 
 to Eton. 
 
 The College soon became the 
 largest and the most important in the 
 University ; and so continued until 
 the foundations of Trinity and St. 
 John's. Its Chapel, or as it is 
 called in all early documents, the 
 " Church of Our Lady and St. 
 Nicholas," indicates the scale on 
 which it was intended that all the 
 buildings should be completed. The 
 College was to consist of 4 courts, 
 only 1 of which was finished ; and, 
 in the face of the troubled time 
 which followed the foundation, and 
 which so long continued, it is some- 
 what remarkable that the Chapel 
 tself should have been completed in 
 so costly and magnificent a fashion. 
 There was to have been a large 
 cloister at the W. end, and, opening 
 to it, the chiu'ch tower, 24 ft. square 
 within the walls, and 120 ft. high. 
 But these works were never under- 
 taken. (Five bells, said by one tra- 
 dition to have been taken by Henry 
 V. from some French church after 
 Agincourt, and by another to have 
 
 been given to Henry VI. by Pope 
 Calixtus, remained here for some 
 time, waiting for the great tower. 
 They were ultimately sold). 
 
 The College is entered from 
 Trumpington-street through a por- 
 tal, on either side of which extends 
 a buttressed wall, pierced with win- 
 dow openings filled with tracerj^ 
 Portal and wall were the work of 
 W. Wilkins, the architect (author of 
 ' Magna Gra^cia '), and were erected 
 in 1828, before which time a range 
 of old houses closed in the College 
 from Trumpington-street. The para- 
 pet of the wall is to some extent 
 imitated from that above the chan- 
 tries of the chapel. The turretted 
 finials which crown the buttresses 
 are decidedly original, and, like the 
 curious dome and ornaments of the 
 portal, are more suggestive of Thibet 
 than of mediaeval England. 
 
 To the Chapel all visitors are at 
 once attracted, and it may first be 
 described. It occupies the whole of 
 the N. side of the court, and is most 
 imposing in its great height (90 ft. 
 to top of battlements), its length 
 (316 ft.), and even from the mono- 
 tony of its 12 bays. The proposed 
 tower would have added beyond 
 measure to its beauty. As it is, the 
 4 angular turrets are unworthy ter- 
 minations of so vast a structure. 
 King's is one of 3 great royal chapels 
 of the Tudor age, the others being 
 Windsor and Henry YII.'s Chapel 
 at "Westminster. Windsor, begun 
 much earlier, was not finished till 
 the reign of Henry VIII. Henry 
 VII. 's Chapel belongs entirely to 
 his own reign. King's was not 
 finished until 1534. " These chapels 
 are infinitely superior to anything 
 erected on the Continent at this 
 time. Before they were finished, 
 the style in France had degenerated 
 into mere prettiness, in Germany 
 into extravagance, and in Italy the 
 Renaissance had entirely obliterated 
 all traces of Gothic design. lu 
 
Cambridge. Boiite 1. — King's College Cliaiiel. 
 
 347 
 
 England alone the stylo was still 
 practised and retained its pristine 
 vigour. Although the architecture 
 of the Tudor chapels cannot be 
 compared with the buildings of the 
 3 first Edwards either for boldness 
 or elegance, it has beaiities of its 
 own which render it well worthy of 
 avhniration." — Fergusson. It is cer- 
 tainly stately and magnificent, al- 
 though the foliage and sculpture, 
 which gave such grace and jioetry 
 to the earlier examples, have here 
 been replaced by more mechanical 
 forms and incessant repetitions. 
 
 The doorway (or portal admitting 
 to the porch) by which the Chapel 
 is entered at the W. end of the S. 
 side, has been called the most pleas- 
 ing part of the (exterior) design, 
 and is more satisfactory than the 
 windows. There is a similar jjorch 
 on the N. side oj^posite, and the W. 
 entrance is of the same design. Be- 
 tween the buttresses, on each side, 
 are 9 chantries, 1 in each bay, 
 except the easternmost, and the 2 
 nearest the W. 
 
 The first stone of the Chapel was 
 laid by Henry VI. himself, in what 
 year is not exactly known. The 
 King obtained grants of stone from 
 the famous quarry of the Vavasours, 
 nt Hazlewood in Yorkshire (the 
 same which supplied much of the 
 stone for York Minster), and from 
 Huddlestone in the same county. 
 Much, however, was not done before 
 the death of Henry. The work was 
 proceeding in 1479, when Edward 
 IV. gave lOOOZ. towards it. In 1484 
 Richard III. gave 700Z. From that 
 time until 1508 it was entirely at a 
 standstill. The building was then 
 resumed at the cost of Henry VII., 
 who gave 5000?, towards it, and in 
 1513 his executors gave another 
 5000/. The exterior was not finished 
 until 1515. In 1526 an agreement 
 was made for the stained glass, and 
 in 1534 the screen and part of the 
 stalls were erected. (The progress 
 of the work, and the work itself, may 
 
 , be compared with that of the so- 
 I called " New Building," an eastern 
 transept, in Peterborough Cathe- 
 dral. That was begun in 1438, 
 ceased for more than half a century, 
 I was recommenced in 1496, and was 
 j finished in 1528. The details- 
 groined roof, windows, exterior bat- 
 tlement and buttresses — so closely 
 resemble those of King's, that it has 
 been suggested "the same master 
 mind would seem to have conceived 
 both."— i^. A. Faley. But is not 
 the resemblance rather the result 
 of the more mechanical art of the 
 Tudor period '?) 
 
 The great effect of the interior is 
 produced by its height (78 ft.), the 
 solemn beauty and splendour of the' 
 stained glass which fills all the win- 
 dows except the W.. and above all 
 by the magnificent fan - tracery of 
 the vaulting, which extends, bay 
 after bay, in unbroken and un- 
 changed succession from one end of 
 the chapel to the other. The breadth 
 of the chapel is 45J ft. The organ- 
 screen dividing the ante-chapel (or 
 nave) from the choir, is placed 
 nearly (but not quite) in the centre 
 of the building, the choir being one 
 bay longer than the ante-chapel. 
 The whole of the internal walls are 
 covered with panelling. The win- 
 dows are only pierced panels, and 
 panelling of stone-work separates 
 the chantries from the body of the 
 chapel. The arms and supporters 
 of Henry VII. — crowned roses, port- 
 cullises, and fleurs de lys — are in- 
 trodixced in every direction, and the 
 carving is of singular sharpness and 
 excellence. But the system of panel- 
 ling, one of the characteristics of the 
 style, is not managed so well here 
 as at Windsor or Westminster. " At 
 King's College the immense size of 
 the windows, and their bad adapta- 
 tion to the bays in which they are 
 placed, render apparent all the de- 
 fects of the style, and lay it fairly 
 open to the reproaches which have 
 
348 
 
 Moute 1 . — Cambridge 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 Lecu lavished upon it." — Fergus- 
 son. ' 
 But it would be difficult to exceed 
 tlie lightness and beauty of the 
 vaulting. Such fan-tracery is the 
 greatest triumph of Perpendicular 
 Gothic, and is peculiar to England. 
 There is no finer example than this. 
 Each bay centres in a pendant key- 1 
 stone, bearing alternately roses and j 
 portcullises. Each key-stone weighs 
 more than a ton, but the vault seems 
 literally hung in air : — 
 
 " That branching roof 
 Self-poised, and scooped into ten thousand 
 
 cells, 
 Where light and shade repose, where music 
 
 dwells, 
 Like thoughts whose very sweetness yieldeth 
 
 proof 
 That they were born for immortality." 
 
 Wordsworth. 
 
 The organ screen, of wood, is of 
 the time of Henry YIII. The gates 
 Oldening to the choir date from the 
 reign of Charles I. The stalls are 
 only in part as old as Henry VIII. 
 By far the greater portion is of much 
 later date, and is not especially good. 
 At the back are carved the arms 
 of English kings from Henry V. to 
 James I. The wood-carving round 
 the altar dates from 1774. The 
 altar-piece (from the Orleans Gal- 
 lery, and given by Frederick, Earl 
 of Carlisle) is by Daniele da Vol- 
 terra. The brass lectern, surmounted 
 by a statue of Henry VII., was the 
 gift of Provost Hacomblen, and well 
 deserves notice. 
 
 The magnificent ivindoios of this 
 Chapel are justly celebrated. Ex- 
 cept at Fairford and in York Min- 
 ster there is no other instance in 
 this country where the original win- 
 dows of a ch. have been preserved 
 throughout the changes and destruc- 
 tions of later centuries. This alone 
 renders the King's Chapel windows 
 especially interesting ; but they be- 
 . long to the period which the late 
 Mr. Winston and other competent 
 judges have regarded as that in 
 
 which the art of designing and 
 colouring such windows attained 
 its greatest perfection, and the ar- 
 rangement of their subjects is also 
 very noticeable. It is possible, how- 
 ever, that the visitor may at first be 
 disappointed with them. The heavy, 
 horizontal iron bars, absolutely ne- 
 cessary for their security, together 
 with the lines of leading, produce a 
 confusing and intricate network ; 
 and many persons leave the chajDcl 
 without carrying away any distinct 
 impression of the windows as pic- 
 tures, " except that of two or three 
 individual heads, especially striking 
 for expression, or placed, it may be, 
 somewhat nearer to the eye. When 
 the attention is once roused, and a 
 little perseverance brought to bear 
 ui3on a i^articular part, the beauties 
 and peculiarities come forth, and 
 the art student will find himself 
 thoroughly rewarded for a little 
 patient application." This is the 
 judgment of Mr. G. Scharf, who 
 has contributed to the ' Archreolo- 
 gical Journal,' vols. xii. and xiii., 
 some very valuable artistic notes on 
 these windows. In the same vol. 
 will be found a paper by the Rev. 
 W. J. Bolton, who has (for the first 
 time) decyphered the texts and 
 some of the subjects. 
 
 The windows, including the great 
 E. window, are in number 2.5. It 
 does not aj^pear that the W. Avindow 
 was ever filled with stained glass, 
 although this was no doubt in- 
 tended (and it is probable that mo- 
 dern design and colouring will 
 shortly be brought here into sharp 
 contrast with ancient — a somewhat 
 trying position). The windows were 
 begun in 151 G, and the original 
 contractor was a certain Barnard 
 Flower. On his death, a second 
 contract (date, 152(5) was entered 
 into with Galyon Hone, Richard 
 Bounde, Thomas Reve, and James 
 Nicholson, providing that the win- 
 dows should be " set up with good, 
 clean, sure and perfect glass, and 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Houte 1.- — King's College Chanel. 
 
 349 
 
 orient colours, and imagery of the 
 story of the old and new law, after 
 the form, manner, curiosity, and 
 cleanness in every point of the 
 King's new chapel in Westminster." 
 The contractors were the executors 
 of Henry VII. and the Provost of 
 the College, thus showing that 
 Henry VII, really defrayed the cost 
 of the glass, and accounting for the 
 many memorials relating to him 
 Avhich the windows contain. How 
 the glass was preserved throughout 
 the troubles of the 17th centy. is not 
 certain. All the windows have been 
 taken down and releaded at some 
 time, and it may have been that 
 they were then removed. 
 
 It is not clear that the contractors 
 (all of whom were Englishmen) were 
 the designers as well as executors of 
 the glass. German, Flemish, and 
 Italian influence is evident, and 
 while Mr. Scharf suggests that the 
 original cartoons (or " vidimuses " 
 as they were then called) of the 
 best windows may have emanated 
 from some excellent Flemish artist 
 like Pieter Koeck, Dirick Stas, or 
 Bernard van Orley, lie asserts that 
 the execution is far inferior to the 
 designs. Much white glass is used 
 — three-fourths, in some cases seven- 
 eighths, of the whole surface being 
 white, or white glass shaded. The 
 result is of course to give mucli in- 
 creased value to the colour. Each 
 window contains 4 i^ictures, 2 above 
 and 2 below the transom. The 
 lower series (as a whole) is a con- 
 tinuous chain of Gospel history, 
 beginning at the N.W. corner with 
 tlie birth of the Virgin, and ending 
 with the legends of her death in the 
 opposite corner. Thus ^he most 
 sacred subjects, those relating to Our 
 Lord's life upon earth, occupy the 
 windows of the choir, or eastern 
 portion of the chapel, the E. window 
 itself representing the Crucifixion. 
 The upper lights, in each window, 
 exhibit the Old Testament types of 
 
 tlie subjects from the New Testa- 
 ment represented below. In the 
 central lights of all the side win- 
 dows, ranged one over another, are 
 4 small figures called " Messengers," 
 each holding a scroll with a text of 
 Scripture explaining the design ad- 
 joining. (The Old Testament texts 
 are generally from the Vulgate. 
 Those from the New Testament, as 
 Mr. Bolton has pointed out, agree 
 most closely with the version of 
 Erasmus, especially with the edition 
 of 1519. Mr. Bolton suggests ac- 
 cordingly that as Erasmus had not 
 left Cambridge when these windows 
 were begun, he may have supplied 
 the inscriptions). These " messen- 
 gers" are figures of prophets and 
 of angels. The general arrange- 
 ment, by type and anti-type, is of 
 great antiquity, and is found in such 
 works as the ' Speculum humanse 
 Salvationis' (13th centy.?), the 
 ' Biblia Pauperum,' and others of 
 similar nature devised for the in- 
 struction (by pictures) of persons 
 who could not read. The paintings 
 on the ceilings and walls of the 
 Sistine Chapel are similarly ar- 
 ranged, and the grand prophets and 
 sybils of Michael Angelo, and those 
 of Eaftaelle, in Santa Maria della 
 Pace at Eome, represent the " mes- 
 sengers " of the earlier books and 
 of these windows. The subjects in 
 all such compositions were very 
 much the same: and Mr. Scharf 
 (' Arch. Journal,' xii.) has printed a 
 comparative table showing the paral- 
 lels of the King's College windows 
 with the subjects in the books just 
 mentioned. The arrangement of 
 these windows is as follows, begin- 
 ning at the N.W. corner of the 
 ante-chapel. 
 
 I. (upper). Joachim's Offering re- 
 fused by the High Priest ; Joachim 
 with the Shepherds ; (below) 
 Joachim and Anna at the Golden 
 Gate ; Birth of the Virgin Mary. 
 (These subjects are from the spuri- 
 
350 
 
 lioute 1. — Camhridrje : 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 ous Gospel of the ' Birth of Mary.') 
 II. Tobit's Offering of a Golden 
 Table in the Temple of the Sun ; 
 Mary presented at the Temple ; 
 Tobit's Marriage; Marriage of Jo- 
 seph and Mary. III. Temptation of 
 Eve ; the Annunciation ; the Burn- 
 ing Bush ; the Birth of Jesus 
 Christ. IV. Institution of Circum- 
 cision ; Circumcision of Jesus ; 
 Queen of Sheba ; Wise Men's Oft'er- 
 ings. V. Purification of Women 
 under the Law ; Purification of the 
 Virgin ; Jacob flying from Esau ; 
 Flight into Egypt. VI. IMoses de- 
 stroying the Tables of the Law; 
 Images of Egypt falling before the 
 Infant Jesus; Joash saved from 
 Athaliah; Massacre of the Inno- 
 cents. VII. Naaman washing in 
 Jordan ; Baptism of Christ ; Esau 
 tempted to sell his Birthright ; 
 Temptation of Christ. VIII. Triumph 
 of David ; Christ's Entry into Jeru- 
 salem; Elisha raising the Sliuna- 
 mite's Son; Kaising of Lazarus. 
 IX. The Manna ; the Last Supper ; 
 Fall of the Rebel Angels ; Garden 
 of Gethsemaue and Ministering An- 
 gel. X. Cain killing Abel ; Judas 
 betraying Christ; Shimei cursing 
 David; Christ mocked. XI. Jere- 
 miah imprisoned ; Christ before Caia- 
 phas ; Noah drunken ; Christ stripped 
 before Herod. XII. Job vexed by 
 Satan; Christ scourged; Solomon 
 crowned ; Christ crowned with 
 Thorns. XIII. The Great E. AVin- 
 dow, with 6 designs relating to the 
 Crucifixion. The figure of Our Lord 
 bearing His Cross should be noticed, 
 and 2 figures on horseback in the 
 lower rt.-hand subject are full of ex- 
 pression and character. XIV. Naomi 
 and her Daughters ; Christ bewailed. 
 (The other glass in this window is 
 modern). XV. Joseph in the Pit; 
 Christ laid in the Tomb ; the Exo- 
 dus ; the Harrowing of Hell. XVI. 
 Jonah and the Whale ; the Resur- 
 rection; Tobias retm-ning to his 
 IMother ; Christ appearing to His 
 Mother. XVII. Reuben seeks Jo- 
 
 seph at the Pit ; the Women at tlie 
 Sepulchre; Daniel in the Lion's 
 Den, addressed by Darius; Christ 
 appearing to Mary Magdalene. 
 XVIII. The Angel appearing to 
 Habbakuk ; Christ appearing to the 
 Disciples on the way to Emmaus; 
 Habbukuk feeds Daniel ; Christ 
 breaking bread at Emmaus. XIX. 
 Joseph meeting Jacob ; Christ ap- 
 pearing to the Di-sciples ; The Pro- 
 digal Son; the Unbelief of St. 
 Thomas. XX. Elijah's Ascent to 
 Heaven ; Christ's Ascension ; the 
 Law given to Moses; the Holy 
 Spirit given to the Apostles. XXI. 
 Peter and John healing the Lame 
 Man ; the Crowd following Peter 
 into the Temple ; the Impressment 
 and Scourging of Peter and John ; 
 Death of Ananias. (The head of 
 Ananias should be especially no- 
 ticed ; the design is clearly imitated 
 from Rafiaelle's cartoon, which had 
 been engraved in 1.518). XXII. 
 Conversion of St. Paul ; Paul and 
 Barnabas at Lystra ; Paul disputing 
 with the Jews at Damascus ; Apostles 
 assaulted at Iconium. XXIII. Paul 
 casting out the Spirit of Divination ; 
 Paul parting from his Friends; 
 Paul arraigned ; Paul before Felix. 
 The 2 westernmost windows on this 
 side have been greatly injured and 
 shattered, and it has been sug- 
 gested that they may have been 
 purposely shattered on account of 
 their "superstitious" subjects, whilst 
 the other windows, the subjects of 
 which are from Scripture, were 
 spared. The subjects (made out by 
 Mr. Bolton with much difficulty) 
 are the Death of the Virgin, and its 
 type, the Death of Tobit ; the Burial 
 of Mary ; the Burial of Jacob ; and 
 in tlie last window, the Assumption 
 of the Virgin ; the Assumption of 
 an unknown Saint (perhaps Enoch ?) 
 the Coronation of the Virgin ; and 
 Solomon placing Bathsheba on a 
 throne by his side. The small figure 
 of the Virgin in one of the roses 
 between these windows, is thex-e 
 
Ca]M BRIDGE. Boiite 1. — King's College Cha;pel. 
 
 351 
 
 placed Avitli a rcfcrentc to the sub- 
 jects in the glass. 
 
 It may be added that the best 
 designs and the best glass are on the 
 S. side. 
 
 Each of the chantries, opening 
 between the buttresses, contained an 
 altar. Th«y are nearly alike, al- 
 though some of the vaulted roofs 
 are plainer than others. Some of 
 the chantries contain old stained 
 glass, and one or two have monu- 
 ments worth notice. In Dr. Toivne's 
 chantry is the brass of William 
 Towne, fellow, d. 1495. This chan- 
 try contains a fireplace. Dr. Brassie^s 
 chantry has the brass of Robert 
 Brassie, provost, d. 15.58 ; and there 
 is here some good stained glass, re- 
 stored from fragments in 1S57. The 
 glass in the Hacomhleyn chantry is 
 specially good, and includes a j^or- 
 trait of Henry YI. The brass of 
 Provost Hacombleyn (d. 1528) re- 
 mains, and there is an altar-tomb 
 for the only son of the great Duke of 
 Marlborough, who died here a stu- 
 dent, aged 16, in 1703. The brass 
 of Provost Argentine, d. 1508, is in 
 the westernmost chantry on the S. 
 side. In 5 of the chantries the 
 muniments of the College are now 
 preserved. 
 
 The case of the present organ 
 dates from 1606. In 1686 and fol- 
 lowing years this case was filled with 
 a new organ by Eenatus Harris, and 
 iu 1803 much of his work was re- 
 placed by new, under Avery. This 
 organ, with additions and improve- 
 ments, still exists. 
 
 It is possible to walk between the 
 2 roofs — the stone vault and the 
 massive and grand roof of timber, 
 which is the real covering of the 
 chapel. A staircase in the N.E. 
 turret leads to the exterior, whence 
 an excellent \aew of the town is ob- 
 tained, and of the country for a 
 great distance round Cambridge. 
 Ely Cathedral is visible, and New- 
 market in clear weather. Royal 
 personages and all important visi- 
 
 tors to Cambridge were formerly 
 conducted to this roof, and some- 
 times had the outline of their feet 
 cut in the lead. The first Villiers, 
 Duke of Buckingham, during his 
 visit to be installed Chancellor of the 
 University, was brought here, but, 
 with unusual humility, " refused to 
 have his foot imprinted there as too 
 high for him." In the Chapel it- 
 self the ' Aulularia ' of Plautus, a 
 play called ' Dido,' and an English 
 play called ' Ezechias,' written by 
 Nicholas Udall, were acted before 
 Queen Elizabeth during her visit 
 in 1564. The Queen was lodged in 
 this college, and at her first en- 
 trance, "marvellously revising at 
 the beauty of the chappel, greatly 
 praised it, above all other in her 
 realme." 
 
 The remaining College buildings 
 call for no long examination. The 
 West side of the Court, begun in 
 1724, was designed by James Gibbs, 
 and is by far the best of the addi- 
 tions. It contains 20 sets of rooms. 
 The South side is entirely the work 
 of William Wilkins, R.A., and was 
 in building between 1824 and 1828. 
 It represents "the Gothic of that 
 period," and, if the choice lay only 
 between such Gothic and the classic 
 designs of Gibbs, it is to be regretted 
 that the whole Court was not com- 
 l^leted by the earlier architect, or 
 rather that "Wilkins — whose Classic 
 architecture was far better than his 
 Gothic — did not, or was not allowed 
 to, adopt the former style. Wilkins' 
 work comprises the hall, library, 
 some sets of rooms, and the Provost's 
 Lodge. The Hall, with its double 
 louvres, its 2 doorways, and its oriel 
 in the centre, is hardly a success. 
 The roof, copied from that of Crosby 
 Hall, is of stucco, coloured to rejire- 
 sent stone. There are gallery screens 
 at either end. The windows are 
 filled with armorial stained glass by 
 Hedgland. There are no pictures. 
 In the smaller Combination Boom is 
 
352 
 
 Hoide 1. — Cambridge 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 an ancient portrait of Henry VI., 
 Avorth notice ; and a curious view of 
 Eton in the time of Queen Anno, 
 thf gift, in 18i7, of Francis, Lord 
 Godolpliin. In the larger room are 
 portraits of Sir Eobert AValpole; 
 Pearson, Bp. of Cliester; Weston, 
 Bp. of Exeter, by Hudson ; and 
 Archdeacon Coxe, by Sir W. Beechey. 
 The Library contains about 12,000 
 vols. The books bequeathed to the 
 College by Jacob Bryant (the my- 
 thologist), once fellow, are many 
 of them rare (early printed) and 
 curious. Sir Francis Walsingham, 
 educated here, and not the least dis- 
 tinguished of Elizabeth's statesmen, 
 gave some books which are still i:»re- 
 served here. There is also a large 
 collection of Oriental MSS. given by. 
 E. E. Pole (fellow, circ. 1798). Be- 
 yond the Library is the Provost's 
 Lodge, the best of Wilkins' erec- 
 tions. It contains, among other pic- 
 tures, a curious and well-known 
 portrait of Jane Shore. 
 
 The lawn W. of the chapel and 
 court, is bordered on one side by the 
 buildings of Clare Hall, and is very 
 sunny and pleasant. The river runs 
 at its foot, and is crossed at the S. 
 end of the lawn by King's Bridge, 
 the view from which is celebrated, 
 and should on no account be missed. 
 Clare, and in the distance the trees 
 of Trinity Hall and College, form 
 the view northward. S. is seen 
 Queen's College, with walks and 
 avenues. The beauty of the scattered 
 trees and avenues, and the ])erfect 
 order and keeping of the whole scene, 
 make this one of the most striking 
 '' stations " in Cambridge. There is 
 no better spot for recalling the lines 
 from Gray's " Installation Ode." 
 Like Wordsworth, he delighted in 
 the College groves : — 
 
 " Yo brown o'erarching groves 
 
 That contemplation loves, 
 Wlicre willowy Camus lingers with delight ! 
 
 Oft at the blush of dawn 
 
 i tvod youi- level lawu, 
 
 Oft woo'd the gleam of Cynthia silver-bright 
 in cloisters dim, far from the haunts of folly. 
 With Freedom by my side, and soft-eyed 
 Melancholy." 
 
 Of the illustrious men connected 
 with King's, only a very few can be 
 here mentioned. John Frith, mar- 
 tja-ed 1553 ; Sir John Cheke, pro- 
 vost (d. 1557); Phineas Fletcher, 
 the poet (d. 1650) ; Pearson, Bp. of 
 Chester, fellow (d. 1686); Waller, 
 the poet (d. 1687) ; Sir Eobert Wal- 
 pole, his brother Horatio, Lord Wal- 
 pole of Wolterton ; and the famous 
 letter writer, Horace Walpole, son 
 of Sir Eobert; Archdeacon Coxe, 
 the historian; Charles Simeon fel- 
 low, the great evangelical leader of 
 his day ( d. 1836) ; Lord Grey, of the 
 EeformBill ^d. 1845). 
 
 Of the Old Court of King's Col- 
 lege, on the N. side of the Chapel, 
 only part of the gateway now re- 
 mains. The court was sold to the 
 University soon after Wilkins had 
 completed his operations for the 
 College, and all was pulled down 
 except what remains of the gateway. 
 ( For this see ante — the Woodwardian 
 Museum). 
 
 Opposite King's, on the E. side of 
 Trumpington-street, is iSt. Edward's 
 Ch. (see Churches, post). 
 
 Beyond King's, on the E. side 
 of Trumpington-street, is Corpus 
 Christi College. Tlie very interesting 
 Ch. of St. Benedict (see Churches, post) 
 opens from Benet-street, N. of the 
 College, and adjoining it is an en- 
 trance to the New Museum, see liost. 
 
 The buildings of Corpus Christi 
 College are almost entirely modern. 
 The chief objects of interest here 
 are the remarkable collection of 
 MSS. given by Abp. Parker ; and 
 the very fine plate given to the 
 College by the same Abp. Neither 
 can be seen, however, without special 
 permission. 
 
 Corpus Christi College was founded 
 in 1852, by the alderman and 
 
Cambridge. Houte 1. — Corpus Christi College. 
 
 
 brethren of the united guilds of 
 Corpus Christi and the Blessed 
 Virgin. These guilds, which had 
 long existed separately, were iniited 
 shortly before the foundation of the 
 College. Many distinguished per- 
 sonages were enrolled among their 
 members, and Henry Duke of Lan- 
 caster was alderman of the united 
 guild at the time of the foundation 
 of the College, The house was at 
 first small, but it soon acquired 
 lands and wealth by the benefactions 
 of various persons, chiefly mayors 
 and burgesses of Cambridge, and 
 members of the guild. At the close 
 of the centy. in which it was founded 
 it began to be known as Benet 
 College, from the neighbouring ch. 
 of St. Benedict, and its true name 
 has been generally revived only 
 within the present century. It is 
 the only college founded by such a 
 guild in Oxford or Cambridge. 
 (The college of the same name in 
 Oxford was not founded until 1516, 
 by Bishop Fox ; and it does not 
 appear for what special reason that 
 name was assigned to it). 
 
 The old buildings of Corpus were 
 small and inconvenient. One small 
 court, covered with ivy, and rather 
 picturesque, with its steep roofs, 
 remains. The other buildings were 
 pulled down shortly before 1823, 
 together with many houses which 
 extended to Trumpington-street ; and 
 on their site the present great court 
 was begun in that year. The archi- 
 tect was William Wilkins, who in 
 the following year (1024) designed 
 and began the principal buildings of 
 King's College. Corpus has thus 
 the distinction of having begun that 
 series of new and extensive recon- 
 structions which has been in pro- 
 gress, with some intermission, from 
 that time until the present. It is 
 only to be regretted that Wilkins, 
 an architect of undoubted genius, 
 was not working here in that classic 
 style which was far more congenial 
 to him, and which was indeed then 
 
 far better understood than the 
 Gothic. The Corpus buildings can 
 hardly be called admirable, and 
 although the entrance gateway is 
 far more correct than the fantastic 
 structure at King's, the latter college 
 is on the whole more satisfactory. 
 
 The Hall, on the N. side of the 
 principal court, is said to have been 
 partly designed after the great hall 
 of Kenilworth. It contains portraits 
 of Abp. Parker (modern) ; Abp. 
 Herring (of Canterbury, d. 1757), 
 and Abp. Tenison (Canterbury, d, 
 1715). In the Combination Koom 
 are portraits of Erasmus and Colet, 
 and of Sir John Cust, Speaker of the 
 House of Commons, d. 1770. Here 
 is also a copy of Eaffaelle's School of 
 Athens, said to be by N. Poussin, 
 and given to the college by Wilkins 
 the architect. The Chapel, at present 
 very indifferent, but which is in 
 course of enlargement and alteration, 
 was built in 1827. It contains no- 
 thing of interest. In the Master's 
 Lodge, beyond it, are two portraits 
 of Abp. Parker, portraits of Prince 
 Henry and Prince Charles, Sir 
 Nicholas Bacon, Dr, Love and Dr. 
 Spencer, both Masters of the College 
 (the latter Dean of Ely, author of 
 a book 'De Legibus Hebrseorum '), 
 and some others. Abj). Parker was 
 Master from 1544 to 1553. In 1559 
 he became Abj). of Canterbury, and 
 both before and after his elevation 
 to that see he was a most liberal 
 benefactor to Corpus. The j^l'^if^ 
 given by him is exceedingly fine. 
 it consists of a very graceful and 
 enriched salt-cellar, deserving special 
 notice ; a magnificent ewer and basin; 
 a covered cup ; and 13 apostle 
 spoons, for the use of the Master and 
 12 fellows. This plate is said to be 
 of German workmanship, and is 
 curiously stamped and enamelled. 
 (It has been figured in Smith's 
 ' Specimens of College Plate,' Camb,, 
 1845). With it are preserved a cup, 
 called ' the cup of the three kings,' 
 
354 Eoute 1. — Cambridge: St. Catherine's College; Sect. IV. 
 
 of dark-brown wood, with silver 
 enrichments. On the lip of the bowl 
 are the names ' Jasper, Melchior, 
 Balthazar ;' and a drinking-horn, 
 given in 1347, by John Goldcorne, 
 alderman of the gnild which founded 
 the College. It is tipped with silver, 
 and is a grand relic, fit for the hall 
 of the King of Thule. 
 
 The Library is a good and lofty 
 room. The great treasure of the 
 collection, and one of the great 
 treasures of Cambridge, is the MS. 
 library, rescued by Abp. Parker 
 from the stores of the dissolved 
 monasteries. It consists of 400 
 volumes, all interesting and curious, 
 and very stringent rules for their 
 j)reservation and safe-keeping were 
 laid down by the Abp., and are 
 still to some extent in force. An 
 excellent catalogue was made (and 
 printed) by Nasmith, a fellow of 
 Corpus, in 1777. The two most 
 noticeable MSS. are — a famous copy 
 of the four Gospels, which there is 
 every reason to believe one of the 
 books sent by Pope Gregory to St. 
 Augustine, by the hands of Law- 
 rence and Peter, who had gone to 
 Rome to report the success of the 
 English mission, and brought back 
 books and other presents on their 
 return. Another copy of the Gospels, 
 which has the same claim, exists in 
 the Bodleian. They are among ' the 
 most ancient books that ever were 
 read in England,' and before the 
 Dissolution had belonged to St. 
 Augustine's monaster)^ at Canter- 
 bury. Within the cover of tlie 
 Cambridge MS. Tischendorf has 
 noted (he saw it during a recent 
 visit) that it closely resembles an 
 Italian MS. of the 6th centy. (The 
 Cambridge IMS. has been most care- 
 fully described and illustrated in 
 Westirood's ' Palffiographia Sacra 
 Pictoria.') The other noticeable 
 volume is Parker's original MS. of 
 the 39 Articles, with autograph 
 signatures of the bishops. Bound 
 
 up with it is a collection of reformers' 
 letters. 
 
 Among the eminent scholars of 
 Corpus are Wishart, the martyr of 
 St. Andrews (d, 154C) ; Lord Keeper 
 Sir N. Bacon (d. 1579) ; Marlowe, 
 the dramatist (d. 1593); Fletcher, 
 the dramatist (d. 1625) ; Richard 
 Boyle, Earl of Cork (d. 1643) ; Teni- 
 son (d, 1715) ; and Herring (d. 
 1757), Abp. of Canterbury ; Samuel 
 Wesley, father of John and Charlea 
 Wesley (d. 1735) ; Stukeley, the an- 
 tiquary (d. 1765); Gough, editor of 
 Camden (d. 1809). 
 
 Adjoining Corpus S. is St. Bo- 
 tolplis Cli. ( see Churches, post). 
 Oi)posite Corpus is St. Catherine's 
 College. 
 
 St, Catherine's College — to be re- 
 cognized by the iron railing which 
 divides it from Trumpington-street, 
 — will not long detain the visitor. 
 It was founded in 1475 by Robert 
 Woodlark, Provost of King's, and 
 Chancellor of the University. The 
 present buildings are not ancient, 
 A rebuilding of the entire College 
 was begun in 1680. Only part of 
 the principal court was then com- 
 pleted, and the E. end of the S. side 
 was not finished until 1755. A 
 fourth side, towards Trumpington- 
 street, was intended ; but has never 
 been built. The court is plain, but 
 far from bad in design. The hall, 
 which has been lately Gothicized, 
 has hardly been improved by the 
 operation. At any rate, its exterior 
 is not in keeping with the rest of 
 the court. The Chapel, very plain, 
 l)ut containing some good carving, 
 was consecrated by Simon Patrick, 
 Bp. of Ely, in 1704. Sir William 
 Dawes, Master and Abp. of York 
 (d. 1724) is buried here, without a 
 memorial. In the antechapel are 
 memorials for John Addenbrooke 
 (founder of the hospital), fellow (d. 
 1719 ;) and for the Rev. G. W. Coop- 
 land, fellow, killed by the sepoys at 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Botite 1. — Queen'' s College, 
 
 355 
 
 Gwalior, 1S57. In the Hall are 
 portraits of the founder; of Bp. Hoad- 
 ley ; Dr. Lightfoot, Master, the well- 
 known Oriental scholar (d. 1675); 
 Bp. Sherlock, and others. In the 
 Combination lioom are portraits of 
 Archdeacon Blackburne (d. 1787) ; 
 and of Charles II. when a boy ; John 
 Bradford (martyred 1555) ; Kay, the 
 naturalist (d. 1705) ; Strype, the 
 ecclesiastical historian and compiler 
 (d. 1737) ; Joseph Milner, the church 
 historian (d. 1797) ; and Charles 
 Hardwick, Archdeacon of Ely, were, 
 besides the distinguished men 
 already mentioned, educated and 
 attached to St. Catherine's. 
 
 There is a small court, dating 
 1626, behind the hall. A portal in 
 the centre of the principal court 
 leads into the street at the back of 
 the College, the principal street in 
 Cambridge, until King's College 
 encroached on it, and at last com- 
 pelled a change of the main highway 
 to Trumpington-street. 
 
 Queen's College, at the back of 
 St. Catherine's, is reached either by 
 passing through the court of that 
 college, or by turning down Silver- 
 etreet, opposite St. Botolph's Ch. 
 
 Queen's College, although not one 
 of the most ancient foundations in 
 the University, is perhaps the most 
 picturesque of all the colleges, and 
 retains its antique character more 
 completely than any other. It was 
 here that Erasmus lived during his 
 residence at Cambridge, whither 
 he was invited by Fisher, Bp. of 
 Rochester and President of Queen's, 
 by whose influence he was ap- 
 pointed Lady Margaret's Professor 
 of Divinity, and Professor of Greek. 
 Erasmus complained bitterly of the 
 Cambridge beer and of the cost of 
 living. The beer of Queen's has no 
 doubt improved during the last three 
 centuries. In other respects the 
 college has hardly kept the position 
 it held in the days of Erasmus. 
 
 The second court, and the view in 
 
 the garden coui't, are very pic- 
 turesque. The interior worth most 
 attention is a gallery in the Presi- 
 dent's Lodge, which of course is only 
 to be seen by special permission. 
 
 Queen's College is so named from 
 its foundress, Margaret of Anjou, 
 who, after her husband Henry VI. 
 had founded King's in 1440, and 
 had also founded in 1446 a College 
 of St. Mary and St. Bernard, prayed 
 the king that the latter foundation 
 might be made over to his '• huml^le 
 wyf," and that it might be called 
 the " Queen's College of St. Margaret 
 and St. Bernard." There was already 
 a Queen's College in Oxford, founded 
 in 1340 by Robert de Eglisfeld, and 
 placed by him under the protection 
 of Queen Philippa of Hainault. 
 But, ran the petition of Queen Mar- 
 garet to her husband, there was no 
 college in the University of Cam- 
 bridge founded by any Queen of 
 England. Her petition was of 
 course granted, and the foundation 
 of the college under Queen Margaret 
 dates from 1448. Elizabeth Wood- 
 ville. Queen of Edward IV., became 
 a patroness of the college, gave it, 
 in 1475, a code of statutes, and is 
 regarded as its second foundress, 
 St. Bernard's Hostel, a house founded 
 by Cistercian monks for the accom- 
 modation of their scholars in Cam- 
 bridge, and therefore placed under 
 the protection of their great patron, 
 St. Bernard, had long existed on the 
 site of the new College, and Andrew 
 Doket, the first President of Queen's, 
 had been principal of the hostel. 
 
 The entrance tower of brick, with 
 turrets at the angles, is part of the 
 original building (completed about 
 1499), and figures of St. Margaret 
 and St. Bernard appear on the 
 groining of the archway. In the 
 first court are the hall and chapel. 
 The Hall was entirely modernized in 
 the last century, but the work then 
 done has, so far as possible, been 
 undone within the last few years. 
 
356 
 
 Boiite 1. — Cambridge : Queen's College ; Sect. IV. 
 
 The old roof lias been restored, and 
 the windows (including the oriel, 
 with shields of arms of founders, 
 benefactors, and presidents) filled 
 with stained glass, by Hardman. 
 There are portraits (good copies) of 
 Queen Elizabeth Woodville, Eras- 
 mus, and Sir Thomas Smith ; Sir 
 Thomas, who liad been a fellow, and 
 was one of Elizabeth's Secretaries of 
 State, left all his Latin and Greek 
 books to the library, '■ and his great 
 globe made by himself ; " — and a 
 full-length of Joshua King, President 
 and Lucasian Professor (d, 1S57), 
 by Sir W. Beecliey. The carving of 
 the door is very good, and should be 
 noticed. The lantern on the hall is 
 entirely modern, and does not well 
 harmonize with the rest of the ex- 
 terior. The large sun-dial in this 
 court is said to have been made by 
 Sir Isaac Newton, In the Comhina- 
 tion Boom is a portrait by Harloive, 
 of Isaac Milner, President and Dean 
 of Carlisle (d. 1820], author of a 
 continuation of his brother's Chuj'ch 
 History. 
 
 The Library, on the N. side of 
 this court, contains a great collection 
 of tracts, theological, historical, and 
 mathematical, ranging over more 
 than 3 centuries. There are a few 
 MSS., including a large folio Salis- 
 bury missal on vellum. The Cliapel, 
 part of Queen Margaret's work, was 
 modernized like the hall in 1773. 
 The roof has been restored, and some 
 stained windows inserted. 
 
 The inner court, surrounded by a 
 narrow, low cloister, is very quaint 
 and unusual, and recals the cloister 
 court of some old German monastery. 
 The President's Lodge is on the N,, 
 and the windows of its gallery look, 
 on one side, into this court. In its 
 arrangements the lodge greatly re- 
 sembles Haddon Hall in Derbyshire, 
 and was no doubt built about the 
 same time. The long low gallery, 
 with window recesses, its old furni- 
 ture and pictures, is exceedingly 
 
 striking. Picturesque rooms open 
 from it at either end. Among other 
 pictures in the lodge should be 
 noticed — a small portrait of Erasmus 
 by Holbein ; a portrait, on panel, of 
 Queen Elizabeth Woodville ; Queen 
 Anne of Denmark ; Bp. Fisher ; 
 and a full-length of Henry Hastings, 
 Earl of Huntingdon, and for many 
 years Lord President of the North. 
 He died in 1595. 
 
 S. of the Cloister Court is that 
 called Erasmus Court. He is said 
 to have lived in rooms at the top of 
 the tower, between this and the 
 first court, " his labour in mounting 
 so, many stairs," says Fuller, " being 
 recompensed with a pleasant prospect 
 round about him." Across the river 
 (which rims at the back of the 
 Cloister Court, and is crossed by a 
 curious wooden bridge, rebuilt in 
 1746) is a terrace overhung by fine 
 elms, and known as Erasmus' Wall:. 
 It should be visited, as well on its 
 own account as for the sake of the 
 curious view of the college obtained 
 from it. Adjoining is a " grove " of 
 fine old trees, which may possibly be 
 successors of trees planted by the 
 Cistercians before the new founda- 
 tion. (See Coggeshall Abbey, Essex, 
 Ete. 2. There is a grove across 
 the river, much in the situation of 
 Queen's Grove. Coggeshall was 
 Cistercian.) A still more picturesque 
 view, embracing the garden front 
 of the President's Lodge, with its 
 quaint Elizabethan oriels, is to be 
 had from the Garden or Walnut-tree 
 Court, W. of the first court. The 
 E. side of this court dates from 1617. 
 There is here a good distant view of 
 King's College. 
 
 The fame of Erasmus overshadows 
 that of other distinguished scholars 
 of Queen's. The list, however, i,s a 
 goodly one, including Fisher, Bp. of 
 itochester (beheaded 1535); Middle- 
 ton, the dramatist (d. 1627); Weever, 
 of the 'Funeral Monuments' (d. 
 1632); Thomas Lord Fairfax (d. 
 
CambPvIUGe. B'Ufel. — P id Press ; Pemhrolce College. 357 
 
 1G40); Lord Capel (beheaded 1648); 
 Culpepper, of the ' Herbal ' (d. 1653). 
 Sir Henry Slingsbv (beheaded 1658) ; 
 Fuller, of the ' Worthies' (d. 1661); 
 Henry Venn, fellow, author of the 
 ' Complete Duty of Man ' (d. 1796) ; 
 Sir J. Egerton Brydges (d. 1837) ; 
 "William Scoresby, the Arctic ex- 
 plorer (d. 1857) ; and G. C. Gorham, 
 the famous opponent of Dr. Philpotts, 
 Bp. of Exeter (d. 1 S57.) The number 
 of distinguished royalists educated 
 here, many of whom shed their blood 
 for King Charles in the field or on 
 the scaffold, is very noticeable. 
 
 Eeturning to Trumpington-street, 
 on the rt. (the W. side) is 
 
 The Fitt Press — the TfniversiUj 
 Vrintlng Press — built after the death 
 of William Pitt, from the residue of 
 a siibscription fund which had first 
 supplied the means for erecting 
 AVestmacott's statue in Westminster 
 Abbey and the bronze statue in 
 Hanover Square. The building was 
 begun in 1831, and was completed 
 in 1833 ; Edward Blore, architect. 
 With its lofty tower, facing the 
 street, it is one of the most con- 
 spicuous objects in Cambridge. (It is 
 called the ' Undergraduates' Church.' 
 Ijecause it is often taken for a ch. 
 l»y freshmen.) The arrangeuients 
 for i)rinting are excellent and on a 
 large scale ; bv;t although much is 
 done here, the Pitt press has hardly 
 a.s yet been turned to such good 
 accoimt as the Clarendon, the sister 
 press at Oxford. John Sibereh, a 
 German who settled in Cambridge 
 in 1521, seems to have been the first 
 printer in the town. Much was 
 (lone for the University Press by 
 Bentley, but the old buildings were 
 poor and inconvenient. 
 
 Pemhroke College (1. of the street 
 after passing the Pitt Press) contains 
 little except its chapel and a fine 
 portrait of Mason (by Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds) to interest the visitor, 
 although in a charter of Hen. VI. it 
 
 is called "uotabile et insigne et 
 quam pretiosum collegium," which 
 tliroughout the University, " mira- 
 biliter splendet et semper resplen- 
 duit ; " although Queen Elizabeth, 
 as she passed it, exclaimed, "O 
 domus autiqua et religiosa ! " and 
 although two somewhat picturesque 
 oriels in its front are reverenced by 
 Americans as the most mediaeval- 
 looking "bit "in Cambridge. The 
 College was founded in 1348, by 
 Mary de St. Paul, daughter of Guy, 
 Count of Chatillon and St, Paul, and 
 widow of Aymer de Valence, the 
 great Earl of Pembroke, whose 
 monument is one of the most dis- 
 tinguished in Westminster Abbey. 
 The Countess also founded Denny 
 Abbey in Cambridgeshire (see Rte. 
 3). This College was at first 
 called the " hall or house of Valence 
 Mary." It afterwards became Pem- 
 broke Hall, and within the present 
 centy. has changed its title to Pem- 
 broke College. Hen. VI. was a great 
 benefactor. 
 
 The College consists of two courts, 
 the largest of which, and the front 
 toward the street, were faced with 
 stone about 1720. There is some 
 antique character in the two courts, 
 the second of which is almost covered 
 with ivy ; but if, as is probable, the 
 College be entirely rebuilt, there 
 will be little to regret. The Chapel, 
 at any rate, will be preserved. This 
 was designed by Sir Christopher 
 Wren, and was one of his earliest 
 works. It was built at the cost of 
 Matthew Wren (uncle of Sir Chris- 
 topher), Bp. of Ely, soon after the 
 Eestoration, as a thank-offering for 
 his release from a confinement of 18 
 years in the Tower, and was conse- 
 crated in 1665. Wren, who had 
 been a fellow here, had made himself 
 especially obnoxious in the dioceses 
 over which he successively presided, 
 Norwich and Ely, by his " persecu- 
 tion " of the Puritans. " He was a 
 man," says Clarendon, " of a sour, 
 severe nature;" but all agree that 
 
3S8 
 
 Boute 1. — Cambridge i 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 he bore his confinement with great 
 firmness and patience. He died in 
 lGt37, and was buried, with great 
 ceremony, at the E. end of this 
 chajjel. The chapel is good and 
 characteristic, and, it may be hoped, 
 will remain unaltered, excej^t perhaps 
 by the insertion of stained glass in 
 the windows. The Hall contains a 
 so-called i-)ortrait of the foundress; 
 portraits of the martyrs Kidley and 
 Bradford ; and a bust of William 
 Pitt, by Chantreij (executed 1835). 
 Pitt was educated here. (This hall 
 witnessed in 1747 the last public 
 dramatic performance in any of the 
 colleges. The play was a comedy 
 called ' A Trip to Cambridge, or 
 the Grateful Fair,' — written by 
 Christojiher Smart, the poet, then 
 Fellow of Pembroke.) In the Com- 
 hination Boom is a small good por- 
 trait of Lancelot Andrewes, made 
 furtively (as appears from an inscrip- 
 tion at the back) by a painter of the 
 Hague, " tempore prandii." Here 
 are also portraits of Edmund Spenser 
 (copy by Wilson) ; of Bp. Wren, a 
 good picture ; of Gray the poet, who 
 lived in this college for 20 years, 
 and died here July 30, 1771 ; and of 
 his friend Mason (fellow of Pem- 
 broke) by Sir Joshua. The portrait 
 of Dr. Long, Master of the College 
 (d. 1770) is by Wilson, and the fuU- 
 lungth of William Pitt was painted 
 by Harlow, after the great minister's 
 ileath. Dr. Long is memorable as 
 the constructor of a curious hollow 
 sphere (at the corner of the inner 
 court) which revolves, and by means 
 of points pierced in the dark hollow, 
 represents the appearance, relative 
 situation, and motions of the stars. 
 30 persons may be seated in it. 
 
 The present Library, at the N.W. 
 corner of the lirst court, was the old 
 chapel. It contains nothing that 
 calls for special notice. 
 
 The so-called anathema cup of 
 Pembroke was the gift of Thomas 
 Langton, Bp. of Winchester, in 1497. 
 On the stem ore the words, "qui 
 
 alienavcrit anathema sit," — a denun- 
 ciation which is said to have kept 
 the cup in the college, when the rest 
 of the plate was sent to Charles 1. 
 
 Pembroke has been called " Col- 
 legitun Episcopal e," from the number 
 of bishops it has produced. It de- 
 serves also to be called the College 
 of the Poets, since it numbers 
 Spenser, Crashaw. Gray and Mason 
 among its members. Others to be 
 specially noted are Kidley (Master), 
 Bp. of London (d. 1555) ; Grindall 
 and "Whitgift, Abps. of Canterbury, 
 and both Masters of the College ; 
 Lancelot Andrewes (Master), Bp. of 
 Winchester (d. 1626) ; William Pitt 
 (d. 1805). 
 
 Little St. Mary^s Ch. (see Churches 
 post) is passed close to the entrance 
 of St. Peter's College. 
 
 St. Peter's, better known as Peter- 
 house, although the oldest college in 
 Cambridge, displays in its buildings 
 few marks of antiquity. The Chapel 
 and the new Hall are its most inter- 
 esting portions. 
 
 Walter de Merton, Bp. of Rochester 
 (1274-1278), founded in 1274 his 
 famous College (Merton College) at 
 Oxford, " the first incorporation of 
 any body of persons for purposes of 
 study in this kingdom, and the first 
 effort to raise the condition of 
 the secular clergj'-, by bringing 
 them into close connection with an 
 academical course of study," the 
 first independent college, in fact, 
 " a distinct republic, with its endow- 
 ments, statutes, and internal govern- 
 ment," and these " distinguish( d 
 from the hall or hostel, where the 
 other scholars dwelt and studied 
 only under the ordinary academic 
 discipline." — ]\[ilman, ' Lat. Chr.' vi. 
 Bisho}) Walter's foundation supplied 
 the model after which his contem- 
 porary, Plugh de Balsham, Bp. of 
 Ely (1257-1286), established the 
 College of St. Peter at Cambridge. 
 There had been in Cambridge a 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Uotite 1. — St. Peter^s College. 
 
 3^9 
 
 hospital dedicatwl to St. John tlie 
 Evangelist, founded about 1135, and 
 under the patronage of the Bps. of 
 Ely. In 1280 (six years after the 
 Merton foundation) Bp. Hugh ob- 
 tained letters patent from Edward I. 
 empowering him to place scholars 
 instead of secular brethren in the 
 hospital, with a direct reference to 
 the arrangements of Merton. At 
 first there seem to have been two 
 bodies, the scholars and the secular 
 brethren, in the same hospital ; but 
 in 1284 the former were removed to 
 the site of the present College, " near 
 the ch. of St, Peter, without the gate 
 of Trumpeton of Cambridge." Here 
 they soon acquired additional ground, 
 built a hall, and when the order of 
 the " Friars of the Sack " was 
 suppressed, with other of the lesser 
 orders of friars, in 1307, St. Peter's 
 College became possessed of their 
 house, which was close to Bp. Hugh's 
 foundation. The Bpa^ of Ely were 
 the special patrons of St. Peter's, and 
 many of its masters have been great 
 benefactors to the College. 
 
 St. Peter's has 3 courts. The first 
 is separated from the street by an 
 iron railing, is of no great antiquity, 
 and is much blocked up by the 
 Cliapel, which projects into it. This 
 Chapel was consecrated by Francis 
 'White, Bp. of Ely, 1633 ; Crashaw, 
 the poet, then a member of the 
 College, wrote some verses on the 
 occasion, and one of the charges 
 brought by the Parliament against 
 John Cosin, afterwards Bp. of Dur- 
 ham, and then Master of St. Peter's, 
 was that he had made divers in- 
 novations in the service here ; " that 
 there was a glorious new altar set 
 up, mounted on steps, to which the 
 Master, Fellows, &c., were enjoyned 
 to bow ; that there were basons, 
 candlesticks, tapers, standing on it, 
 and a great crucifix hanging over it." 
 For these, and other " superstitious 
 vanities," as Smart called them, here, 
 at Durham, and at Peterborough, 
 
 (where he was Doan), ho was de- 
 prived of all his benefices, the first 
 victim of Puritanical vengeance. In 
 1613 Dowsing visited Cambridge, 
 and speedily " set matters to rights " 
 in St. Peter's Chapel. He pulled 
 down " two mighty angels with 
 wings, Peter on his kneies over the 
 Chapell door, and about a hundred 
 cljirubims, . . . and divers supersti- 
 tious letters on gold." The stained 
 glass of the E. window had happily 
 been taken down and concealed. In 
 its present state the Chapel is not a 
 bad example of Laudian Gothic. The 
 old stained glass (a crucifixion — the 
 design is nearly identical with that 
 of Kubeus' picture in the Antwerp 
 Museum, and is said to have been 
 furnished by Lambert Lombard) now 
 fills the E. window, and contrasts 
 very favourably with the Munich 
 glass inserted in the side windows — 
 in the destruction of which Dowsing 
 would have found much congenial 
 occupation. These windows were 
 executed under tiie direction of Prof. 
 Aimmiiller, at Munich, and are of 
 course pictorial in design, their 
 subjects being from the Old and 
 New Testaments. The two eastern- 
 most windows are memorials of W. 
 Smyth, the late Eegius Professor of 
 Modern History. The colour is rich, 
 but the efl:ect of such windows is 
 little better than that of well-painted 
 blinds. 
 
 Before the building of this Chapel 
 the Church of St. Mary the Loss, 
 known as St. Peter's Church, until 
 in 1352 it was reconsecrated, served 
 as thojfChapel of the College. 
 
 The Library, on the S. side of the 
 Chapel, was built by Andrew Perne, 
 Master from 1553 to 1589. It is 
 rich in mediaeval theology, but con- 
 tains few important books. The MS. 
 of Warkworth's Chronicle (extending 
 over the first 13 years of Ed. IV. — it 
 was printed by the Camden Soc. in 
 1839j is preserved here. Warkworth, 
 who died in 1500, was Master of the 
 
oGO l^oiite l.—Cdmhndge : FltzwilUam Museum ; Sect. IV. 
 
 College, and the MS. was his own 
 gift to the Library. There are a 
 few portraits here, including that of 
 the builder, Andrew Perne. 
 
 The second court was refaced with 
 stone in 1760. On the N. side are 
 the new Hall and Combination Booms, 
 just (1870) completed. The style is 
 very good, but simple, Perj). ; the 
 architect G. Scott, jun., son of Mr. 
 G. G. Scott. Some Norm, windows 
 found in the wall of the old half 
 indicate perhaps that it was part of 
 the house of tlie " Friars of the 
 Sack." Two 13th-centy. doorways, 
 which have been restored, open to 
 the butteries. 
 
 The tJiird court was built from 
 part of the bequest of the Rev. 
 Francis Gisborne (fellow, d. 1821), 
 who left 20,000L to the College. It 
 is Gothic of that date, hardly yet 
 freed from the thin lines and narrow 
 mouldings of Strawberry Hill. Be- 
 yond it is a small j^ark or " grove," 
 with some tine trees, chiefly limes. 
 On the W. side is a portal with the 
 arms of Alcock, Bp. of Ely (1486- 
 1500). 
 
 St. Peter's has nurtured some dis- 
 tuiguished men. Among them are 
 Cardinal Beaufort, the Bp. of Win- 
 chester so maligned by Shakspeare 
 and by Sir Joshua Reynolds (d. 1447). 
 Warkworth, author of the 'Chro- 
 nicle.' Andrew Perne, Dean of Ely, 
 one of the translators of the Bishops' 
 Bible (d. 1589). Whitgift, Abp. of 
 Canterbury (d. 1604). Hey wood the 
 dramatist I'd. 1648). Crashaw the 
 poet (d. 1652). Brian Walton, Bp. 
 of Chester, editor of the Polyglot 
 Bible (d. 1661 ). Bp. Cosin, of "Dur- 
 ham (d. 1672:. WiUiam Sherlock, 
 Dean of St. Paul's fd. 1707). Duke 
 of Grafton, Chancellor of the Uni- 
 versity from 1768 to 1811 ; — it was 
 for his installation that Gray, then 
 Professor of Modern History, Avrote 
 the ode beginning " Hence, avaunt, 
 'tis holy ground." Gray the poet (d. 
 1771), and William Smvth, Professor 
 of Modern History (d. 1849). 
 
 Beyond St.' Peter's, on the same 
 side of the street, is the Fitzwilliam 
 Museum. 
 
 The Fitzwilliam Museum (open to 
 all persons from 10 to 4, Tuesdays, 
 Thursdays, and Saturdays — on other 
 days it is necessary to be introduced 
 by a graduate — the library is open 
 only to graduates of the University, 
 who may introduce their friends) is 
 perhaps the finest classical building 
 which has been erected of late years 
 in this country. Its exterior is very 
 imposing, and the breadth of the 
 street allows it to be well seen. The 
 architect was George Basevi, un- 
 happily killed by a fall from the 
 western tower of Ely (see Rte. o, 
 Ely Cathedral), and after his death 
 in 1845 he was succeeded by Mr. C. 
 B. Cockerell. The work proceeded 
 until 1847, when the available funds 
 were exhausted, and the comple- 
 tion of the interior was temporarily 
 stopped. The site (bought from St. 
 Peter's College) and the buildings 
 had up to that time cost 101,195Z. 
 The Museum was erected in accord- 
 ance with the will of Richard Fitz- 
 william, Viscount Fitzwilliam, who 
 died in 1816, and left his pictures, 
 library, and works of art to the 
 University, together with a sum of 
 100.0007., from the interest of which 
 a building was to be erected for 
 their reception. After a temporary 
 sojourn at tlie Perse free school, all 
 the collections were removed here in 
 1848. Other works of art have been 
 purchased and have been bequeathed 
 from time to time, and the Museum, 
 (besides much that is worthless) 
 contains pictures, statues, books, and 
 engravings of great interest and 
 value. The entrance hall and stair^ 
 case are exceedingly fine, although 
 parts of the decorations (here de- 
 signed by Cockerell) remain un- 
 finished. Red granite has been 
 much used, and the central cupola 
 is greatly enriched. On the lower 
 story (to which there is a descent 
 
Cambridge. lloufe 1. — ■Fitzwilliam Gallery, 
 
 361 
 
 from the main entrance) are the 
 statue galleries, the library, and the 
 Museum of the Cambridge Anti- 
 quarian Society. On the upper are 
 the pictures. 
 
 The most important pictures here 
 formed part of the Fitzwilliam 
 legacy. Daniel Mesman, Esq., of 
 Knightsbridge, bequeathed a large 
 collection, which came to the Univer- 
 sity in 1834 ; and Mrs. Ellison, of 
 Sudbrooke Holme, Lincolnshire, 
 gave 30 modern paintings of great 
 interest. In each room printed cards 
 will be found, with a catalogue of 
 the pictures. The fine ceiling and 
 lantern of the main gallery deserve 
 attention. In this room the visitor 
 should specially notice : — Titian, — 
 the original of the picture called 
 Titian's Venus, in the Dresden 
 Gallery. (From the Orleans Gal- 
 lery). — Paul Veronese; Mercury 
 transforming Aglauros to stone; in- 
 scribed with the artist's name. 
 (From the Orleans Gallery). — Anni- 
 hale Carracci ; St. Eoche with the 
 Angel. (Orleans Gallery). — Gaspar 
 Poussin ; a small landscape, very 
 excellent. Rembrandt ; portrait of 
 an officer, inscribed with name and 
 date, 1635, very excellent. Gerard 
 Doio ; a schoolmaster and scholars, a 
 portrait said to be of himself, both 
 admirable. Jan Both ; view on the 
 Tiber — a very fine picture. The 
 soidli room, entered 1. of the large 
 gallery contains (among others) a 
 portrait of Prince Albert in his robes, 
 as Chancellor of the University ; and 
 a portrait of William Pitt, by Gains- 
 horoiujli. There are also fin cases, 
 only to be seen by special applica- 
 tion 25 drawings by Turner, given 
 to the University by Mr. Ruskin. 
 In the room beyond is the Mesniun 
 collection, an assemblage of small 
 pictures, few of which are worth 
 much attention. Observe a Venus 
 by Ehheimer, two cattle-pieces by 
 Clomp, a pupil of Paul Potter ; and 
 some cmious pictures of flowers and 
 insects, by De Heem and Van Kessel. 
 
 In the Nortlt Room, rt. of the 
 main gallery, is a fine picture of the 
 Salutation, by ManzuoU di San 
 Friano, the gift of H. T. Hope, Esq. 
 Here also are the English pictures 
 presented by Mrs. Ellison, including 
 a beautiful ' Crossing the Ford,' by 
 Cresivick ; Danhy's ' Painter's Holi- 
 day ; ' and ' Meadfoot Bay,' by 
 Collins. The North Gallery contains 
 a very fine picture of the ' Temple of 
 Bassse,' by Lear, an artist too little 
 known. Here also is a recently- 
 acquired early Murillo, — 'St. John 
 the Baptist interrogated by the 
 Pharisees.' This picture is remark- 
 able, — the landscape especially so. 
 There are some Fitzwilliam pori raits 
 in this room, including Wm. Fitz- 
 william, Earl of Southampton and 
 Lord High Admiral, fahely ascribed 
 to Holbein. Two portraits of the 
 founder are — one (aged 19) by 
 Wright of Derby, another by Henry 
 Howard, R.A. A portrait of General 
 Lloyd (d. 1783), a well-known writer 
 on military affairs, deserves atten- 
 tion. 
 
 The lower or basement story con- 
 tains the Scidpture Gallery. Here 
 the most important collection is in 
 the central room, and is that given 
 to the University (in 1850) by John 
 Disney, Esq., of the Hyde, Essex. 
 This collection was chiefly formed 
 by Thomas Hollis, Esq. (the donor 
 of the Cromwell portrait to Sidney 
 College), and Thomas Brand, Esq., 
 who took the name of Hollis on 
 succeeding to the property. The 
 estates and collections then came to 
 Mr. Disney, father of John Disney, 
 Esq., who gave the latter to the 
 University. He published an account 
 of them under the name of ' Museum 
 Disneianum ' (1846-48). Catalogues 
 on cards are placed in all the rooms. 
 Remark in the central room — a 
 young fawn piping ; bust of Octavian 
 Caesar ; two heads of Pan; sarco- 
 phagi, with scenes from the life of 
 Achilles and from the story of 
 
362 Boiite 1. — Cambridge: Fifzivilliam Museum ; Sect. IV. 
 
 Bacchus. A circular cinerary urn, 
 with inscription— L. senti. ll cocceti. 
 V. A. I. M. VI. (vixit annum unum, 
 menses sex). Nolite dolere parentes. 
 Hoc faciendum fuit.' The greater 
 part of the collection is good. In 
 the room is a bust of John Disney, 
 by Westmacott. In the other rooms 
 are many fine casts and antique 
 fragments, some given to the Univer- 
 sity by Clarke, the traveller in 
 Greece and Asia Minor, some given 
 by J. Kirkpatrick, Esq., and others. 
 The view looking through the rooms, 
 with their enriched ceilings, is very 
 striking. Cases of antique vases, 
 bought from the exeeutors of Colonel 
 Leake, are placed in each of the end 
 rooms, and are well worth study. 
 In the West room is an interesting- 
 small model of one of the Etruscan 
 tombs discovered at Nola, in Cam- 
 pania. The skeleton and arrange- 
 ment of vases are seen within. Here 
 also are busts of Dr. E. Clarke, and 
 of Home Tooke, both by Chantrey ; 
 the first, especially fine, is tliat 
 which materially established the 
 sculjator's reputation. Dr. Maltby, 
 Bp. of Durham, and Colonel Leake, 
 by Belines. W. Smyth, for many 
 years Professor of Modern History, 
 by Bailey ; and Professor Henslow, 
 by Woolner. 
 
 The Library ( only accessible 
 through a member of the University) 
 is very rich in books on art, and in 
 fine engravings, including a noble 
 series of Albert Durers, and the rare 
 prints of Marc Antonio. There is a 
 portfolio of original drawings, by 
 Bomney ; many medijeval MSS., 
 chiefly service-books — Flemish and 
 German ; a curious collection of MS. 
 music, chiefly by Italian masters of 
 the 16th and 17th cents., and a 
 very fine copy of Pirauesi's work on 
 Rome. 
 
 In the North basement room are 
 arranged for the present the collec- 
 tions of the Cambridge Antiquarian 
 
 Society. These include numerous 
 flint and bronze implements and 
 ornaments found in the fens, chiefly 
 those of Swaft'ham and Burwell; 
 much glass and pottery, including 
 some fine Eoman examples; Saxon 
 relics from cemeteries ; iron weapons ; 
 a fine mediaeval morse, and much 
 which will repay examination. A 
 collection of oriental weapons is also 
 here, and a mummy brought from 
 Egypt by the Prince of \Vales. The 
 library of the Antiquarian Society 
 is arranged in cases against the 
 wall. 
 
 After the Fitzwilliam Museum is 
 passed the road becomes pleasantly 
 open, and is bordered by fine trees, 
 amongst which are good houses and 
 terraces. 1. is AddenhrooJce's Hos- 
 'pital, founded imder the will of 
 John Addenbrooke, fellow of Cathe- 
 rine College, in the chapel of which 
 he is buried. He died in 1719. 
 Large bequests have since been 
 made to the hospital, which is now 
 able to relieve annually more than ■ 
 1000 patients. It has lately been 
 refronted, and in part rebuilt, from 
 the desi^s of Dighy Wyatt. The 
 open, exterior corridors, and the 
 large, lofty, well -lighted rooms, are 
 excellently fitted to the purposes of 
 the building, the front of which is 
 very pleasing in design. The mixed 
 colour of the brick is especially 
 valuable here, Avhere most of the 
 buildings are dusky and monotonous 
 in tint. 
 
 A short distance farther 1., at 
 the end of a watercourse formed by 
 the town and University in 1610, 
 is Tlohsonh Conduit. The water is 
 brought from springs (which rise at 
 a place called " Nine Wells," in the 
 parish of Great Shelford, about 3 m. 
 distant), and from this place is carried 
 into the town. The streams which 
 rim on either side of Trumpington 
 and St. Andrew's streets are thus 
 supplied.) The conduit is a pic- 
 turesque hexagonal structure, with 
 
CaMbkIdge. Iloute 1.— Botanic Garden; Doiming College. 363 
 
 niclied recesses and an ornamental 
 capping. On it are the inscriptions 
 — " Thomas Hobson, carrier between 
 Cambridge and London, a great 
 benefactor to this University and 
 town, died 1st January, 1630, in the 
 8Gth year of his age." " This struc- 
 tuie stood npon the market hill, and 
 served as a conduit from 1614 to 
 1856, in which year it was re-erected 
 on this spot, by public subscription." 
 The Hobson who helped to erect 
 this conduit in 1614, and bequeathed 
 laud for its perpetual maintenance, 
 was, it need hardly be said, the 
 Hobson of ' Hobson's choice,' and of 
 Milton's famous epitaphs. He be- 
 came rich by his business as a carrier, 
 himself j^assing incessantly between 
 London and Cambridge, and his 
 death (in spite of his 86 years) was 
 said to have been caused by his 
 having been obliged to discontinue 
 his journeys whilst the plague was 
 raging m Cambridge — 
 '' Death," writes Milton, 
 
 " was half glad when he had got 
 him down ; 
 
 For he had, any time this ten years full, 
 
 Dodf^ed ^Yith him betwixt Cambridge and 
 ' The Bull.' 
 
 And surely Death could never have pre- 
 vailed, 
 
 Had not his weekly course of carriage 
 failed." 
 
 He was the first person (it is said in 
 the kingdom) who let out saddle- 
 horses for hire, each horse being 
 sent out in due turn, whence the 
 proverb. 
 
 About J m. farther on, 1., is the 
 principal entrance to the Botanic 
 Garden, a space of 21 acres, well 
 and pleasantly laid out and planted. 
 It is open daily, with little restric- 
 tion, but the green-houses can only 
 be entered between 1 and 4, and then 
 in the company of the curator. They 
 contain some good old specimens, but 
 none which call for special notice. 
 The garden is arranged after the 
 natural system of De Candolle. 
 Tliere is a large piece of ornamental 
 
 water, a fernery, and an artificial 
 morass for bog plants. The Botanic 
 Garden has only existed on this 
 site since 1844. The older garden, 
 (which was formed in 1761) was on 
 the N. side of Downing-st., and in 
 it were built the Anatomical Schools 
 and Museum. 
 
 Eeturning to Downing Terrace, 
 and turning up the Tennis Court 
 Road, Downing College is reached rt. 
 This is the youngest of the Colleges. 
 Its founder was Sir George Down- 
 ing, of Gamlingay in Cambridge- 
 shire, b. about 1686, d. 1749. He 
 had been married, after a custom of 
 that time, when only 15, to his cousin 
 Mary Forester, who was 13. They 
 never lived together, and Sir George 
 Downing tried in vain to obtain a 
 dissolution of the marriage. His 
 will ijrovided for the passing of his 
 large estates to certain of his rela- 
 tives in succession. If they all died 
 without issue, a college, to be called 
 " Downing College " was to be 
 founded in Cambridge. In 1764 all 
 had so died, and the Court of Chan- 
 cery pronounced the will to be bind- 
 ing. The charter for the College did 
 not pass the great seal until 1800. 
 Statutes were provided in 1805, and 
 the first stone of the new College 
 was laid on its present site in May, 
 1807. The architect was William 
 Wilkins, whose Gothic may be stu- 
 died at King's and at Corpus, and 
 who was decidedly more successful 
 in liis classical design for Downing. 
 Only a part of the College is finished, 
 the W. and part of the E. side of the 
 great court. There is nothing with- 
 in the College which calls for notice. 
 The grounds (at the back) are ex- 
 tensive and well laid out. From the 
 front, a double avenue, which is now 
 of some importance, and will even- 
 tually become one of the most strik- 
 ing ornaments of Cambridge, runs 
 for a considerable distance into 
 Downing-street. With this College 
 are connected, according to the pro- 
 
 u 2 
 
^64 
 
 Boide 1. — Camhrklge : New Museum ; Sect. IV* 
 
 vision undor the royal charter, 2 
 professorships — one of English law, 
 the other of medicine. 
 
 Walking down the long avenue in 
 front of Downing College, the visitor 
 will enter Downing-street, opposite 
 the New Museum. Part of this was 
 built for the Anatomical Museum in 
 1832. 
 
 It has been added to, and ar- 
 ranged for its present purposes, 
 imder the direction of Salvin and 
 Professor Willis. The building is 
 singularly plain and ugly, although 
 the interior arrangements are very 
 convenient. It is probable that it 
 will eventually form two courts, 
 only portions of which exist at 
 present. The Museum contains lec- 
 ture-rooms for various professors, 
 and some fine and interesting col- 
 lections in the several departments 
 of natural history. On the ground 
 floor is the Museum of Comparative 
 Anatomy, arranged by the late 
 Dr. Clark, professor of anatomy 
 from 1814. This is a fine room, 
 with a bust of the late professor at 
 the end. The collection comisrises 
 the private museum of Sir Busick 
 Hardwood, professor of anatomy 
 1785-1814 ; part of the museum of 
 Joshua Brookes, Esq. ; the collec- 
 tions of Dr. Macartney, professor 
 of anatomy. Trinity College, Dub- 
 lin ; and the osteological collections 
 of Professor Bell, bought by Dr. 
 Clark in 4856. There are fine 
 skeletons of the Cape bufialo, the 
 great ant-eater, elephant, giraffe, 
 ostrich and others, including a per- 
 fect skeleton of the narwahl. Here 
 are also a good series of vertebrse of 
 the connnon fin-whale, and a skele- 
 ton of the dodo. In other rooms 
 are the Zoological, Mineralogical. 
 and Botanical Collections. In the 
 ZonJofjical the Swainson and Strick- 
 land cabinets of birds should be re- 
 marked, and there is a good assem- 
 blage of the birds of Cambridgeshire. 
 The Mineralogical Museum is very 
 
 rich. It is made up of many col- 
 lections, the most important being 
 those of Dr. E. D. Clarke (the tra- 
 veller), bought by the University in 
 1823; of the late Dr. Whewell, 
 ]\ [aster of Trinity ; and of tlie two 
 fine collections made by Sir Abra- 
 ham Hume (and given to the Uni- 
 versity by his grandson, Lord Alford, 
 in 1841) and by the late Henry 
 James Brooke, Esq. (presented in 
 1857 by his son). The Botamcal 
 Museum is gradually arranging 
 under the care of Professor Babiug- 
 ton, and when in order will only be 
 exceeded in interest and imj^ortance 
 by that at Kew. The chief collec- 
 tions were made by the late Pro- 
 fessor Henslow, but the museum 
 also contains the herbarium formed 
 by Dr. Lindley, all of which is here 
 except the orchises (these are at 
 Kew.) This collection is especially 
 valuable, since the specimens in it 
 are the same as those figured in Dr. 
 Lindley's books. The botany of the 
 British Isles, and particularly of 
 Cambridgeshire, is well represented 
 in the Museum. 
 
 The Cambridge Philosophical So- 
 ciety have their rooms, and hold 
 their meetings, here. 
 
 The Museum occupies part of the 
 ground appropriated to the old 
 Botanic Gardens (see ante). Within 
 the enclosure remains a series of 
 shallow brick arches, fragments of a 
 l)riory of Augustinian friars, founded 
 by Sir Geofiiy Pitchford about 12U0. 
 
 Turning E., through Downing- 
 street, St. Andrew's-street is entered 
 immediately opposite 
 
 Emmanuel College, the last col- 
 lege (except Sidney Sussex) founded 
 in Cambridge before the modern 
 Downing. It was established by 
 Sir Waiter Mildmay in 1584. "I 
 have sot an acorn," — he replied to 
 Queen Elizabeth, who told liim slie 
 heard he had " erected a Puritan 
 foundation " — " which when it be- 
 comes an oak, God alone knows 
 
Cambridge. Bouie l.'^^Emmamiel College. 
 
 365 
 
 what ^yill be the fruit thereof." Em- 
 manuel did in effect remain strongly 
 Puritan until at least the middle of 
 the next century, but the list of its 
 distinguished members proves that 
 it has since that time been by no 
 moans confined to any special school. 
 It was founded on the site of a Do- 
 minican convent established in Cam- 
 bridge in the 13th centy., and of 
 considerable mark, and portions of 
 the ancient buildings, especially the 
 refectory and the cljapel, were (it is 
 asserted) worked into those of the 
 new College. Sir Walter Mildmay, 
 the founder, was a son of Thomas 
 Mildmay of Chelmsford, and was 
 actively employed, chiefly on matters 
 connected with the exchequer, dur- 
 ing the reigns of Edw. VI., Mary, 
 and Elizabeth. The latter Queen 
 made him Chancellor of the Ex- 
 chequer and Treasurer of the House- 
 hold. He died in 1589. 
 
 The chief points of interest in 
 Emmanuel are the Library and the 
 Picture Gallery in the Master's 
 Lodge. The architect of Sir Wal- 
 ter's College was Ralph Simons, who 
 also designed the second court of St. 
 John's (see that College). Of his 
 work only a small portion remains, 
 facing the College close. The pre- 
 sent chapel and the pictm'e gallery 
 were built in the reign of (Jharles 
 II. Tlie hall and principal court 
 were modernised, and the front to- 
 wards St. Andi-ew's - street was 
 erected by James Essex early in the 
 reign of George III. An additional 
 building, toward Emmanuel-lane, of 
 very indifferent Gothic, was con- 
 structed in 1824. 
 
 The front of the College, by Es- 
 sex, is handsome and substantial; 
 and the modernization of the first 
 court, by the same architect, is not out 
 of keeping with the earlier chapel 
 and cloister which form the eastern 
 side of it. This Chapel was designed 
 by Sir Christopher Wren, and con- 
 
 secrated in 1677. It may be com- 
 pared with Wren's earlier chapel at 
 Pembroke, though hardly perhaps 
 to its advantage. The altar-piece 
 is by Amiconi. Within the cloister, 
 which extends on either side, is the 
 entrance to the Master's Lodge, with 
 its Picture Gallery. In the dining- 
 room is a picture hj Sir Joshua Rey- 
 nolds, — children playing at forfeits. 
 The gallery (part of Wren's de- 
 sign) is 100 ft. long, and contains, 
 besides numerous portraits, a great 
 number of scarce and curious his- 
 torical engravings, many of which 
 are by Vertue. At one end are por- 
 traits of Sir Walter Mildmay, the 
 founder (^Vansomer) ; and of his son 
 Sir Anthony (D. Mytens). At the 
 other is a full-length of Dr. Hol- 
 bech. Master of the College in 1677, 
 when the chapel and gallery were 
 completed by his donations. Other 
 noticeable portraits here are — Abp. 
 Saucroft, full-length, seated, in a 
 library, by P. Lens. This is the 
 best portrait of Sancroft (d. 1693 — 
 see Fresingfield, Suffolk, Ele. 9), 
 who was 7th Master of the College, 
 and who gave many valuable books 
 to the Library. Dr. Bretton, Mas- 
 ter, 1665, with the Chapel (begun in 
 his time) in the background. Chief 
 Justice Sir Francis Pemberton — 
 whose boast was that "he made, 
 rather than declared the law " — one 
 of the council for the 7 Bishops, 
 1688. Joseph Hall, Bp. of Norwich 
 (d. 1656). (The College possesses 
 the gold medal given to Bp. Hall by 
 the States General on his leaving the 
 Synod of Dort. He used to wear 
 it suspended on his breast, as it 
 appears in this picture.) Sir Percy 
 Cust, 1670 ; Charles Fane and John 
 Fane, both Earls of Westmoreland; 
 the latter (whose portrait is by Rom- 
 ney) Lord Lieutenant of Ireland ; 
 Dr. Farmer, by Romney ; Joshua 
 Barnes, Kegius Professor of Greek 
 (d. 1712); Sir William Temple ,the 
 author and diplomatist, by Lely ; 
 Jackson, Bp. of Kildare, by Gains- 
 
366 Boute l.-^Camhridge : Emmanuel College ; Sect. IV. 
 
 borough; Mr. Hubbard, by Gains- 
 horough ; Ealpli Simons, the archi- 
 tect. All whose portraits are pre- 
 served here were either members of 
 the College, or closely connected 
 with it. 
 
 In the Hall, which has a good 
 ceiling and is handsome, are a very 
 fine portrait of Sir Walter Mildmay 
 the founder, by Vansomer; a por- 
 trait of Sir Wolstan Dixie, alderman 
 of London, who contributed toward 
 the original fabric, and founded fel- 
 lowships and scholarships ; and a 
 good portrait of Dr. Parr (d. 1825), 
 who was educated here. The hall 
 occupies part of the site of the chapel 
 of the Dominican convent, and it is 
 asserted that Simons, architect of 
 the original College hall, used part 
 of the chapel in his construction. 
 Simon's work was, however, entirely 
 removed when James Essex rebuilt 
 the hall in the latter part of the last 
 centy. 
 
 Among other plate, the College 
 possesses a very beautiful founder's 
 cup, attributed to Benevenuto Cel- 
 lini. The cup displays the foun- 
 der's arms in enamel, and tlie 
 letters "VV. M. joined by a knot. 
 The interior of the bowl has curious 
 devices — sea deities and monsters — 
 with Arion on his dolphin in the 
 midst. Dr. Parr's pipe, tobacco- 
 box, and stopper are also preserved 
 here. 
 
 The Library, a very plain building 
 in the inner court, stands on the site 
 of the Dominicans' refectory, and 
 was the College chapel until the 
 Restoration. It was never conse- 
 crated, and complaints were made to 
 Laud of the irregular manner in 
 which the services were performed 
 here — " they singing nothing but 
 certain riming psalms of their own 
 appointment instead of y"^ hymnes 
 between y*' lessons." There are now 
 here about 20,000 vokunes, many of 
 which are rare and curious. Among 
 
 the MSS. are a collection of letters 
 and papers relating to the early Re- 
 formers — Bradford, Coverdale, Rid- 
 ley, and others — some originals, 
 others copies in contemporary hands. 
 These have been printed by the 
 Parker Society. A Hebrew Bible, 
 bought at Venice by William Bedel, 
 Bp. of Kilmore, for its weight in 
 silver, given to the College by Bp. 
 Bedel, who was long a fellow. A 
 noble MS. copy of Wicklif's Bible ; 
 at the end is written " jhu helpe us 
 for we ben feble : " the book seems 
 to have belonged to Sancroft. A 
 MS. of part of Chrysostom, from 
 Parr's library, and a great number 
 of Oriental MSS., of which a de- 
 scription, written by Sir William 
 Jones, remains in tlie library. There 
 is a collection of printed Bibles, 
 many of which were Abp. San- 
 croft's, who, as has been already 
 said, left a large portion of his 
 library to this College. His bust is 
 placed over the library door. 
 
 On the S. side of the principal 
 court, and at right angles with it, is 
 a range of building of brick, with 
 stone dressings, which is the only 
 existing portion of the College built 
 by Ralph Simons. The garden, 
 seen beyond and through the cloister, 
 is large and pleasant. 
 
 The " House of pure Emmanuel," 
 as it was scoffingly called, was 
 strongly Puritan for a long period 
 after its foundation. Bp. Hall, who 
 was educated here under the first 
 Master — Dr. Chaderton, one of the 
 translators of James I.'s Bible- 
 declares that for " good order, stu- 
 dious carriage, strict government, 
 austere piety, I dare say that society 
 had none beyond it." Besides Hall, 
 Sancroft, and Parr, Emmanuel 
 reckons among its distinguished 
 names those of Sir Roger Twysden, 
 the antiquary (d. 1672); Edmund 
 Castell, professor of Arabic, and 
 author of the ' Lexicon Heptaglot- 
 ton ' (d. 1685) ; Sir William Temple 
 (d. 1700); John Wallis, Sayilian 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Botite 1. — Christ's College, 
 
 367 
 
 Professor of Geometrv at Oxford (d. 
 1703); William Law, 'of the' Serious 
 Call ' (d. 1761) ; Richard Dawes, the 
 critic (d. 17G(J) ; Hiird, Bp. of Wor- 
 cester (d. 1808) ; Thomas Percy, Bp. 
 of Dromore, editor of the famous 
 'Percy Relics' (d.l811); Sir Wil- 
 liam Gell, the scholar and anti- 
 quary (d. 1836). 
 
 A short distance S. of Emmanuel, 
 opening from Regent-street — a con- 
 tinuation of St. Andrew's-street — is 
 Farher's Piece, a wide, open green, 
 so called from Edward Parker, cook 
 of Trinity College, who held it on 
 lease in 1613, when it was bought 
 iby the town. Cricket matches, foot- 
 ball, and sundry athletic sports are 
 held here, but the chief " athletic " 
 quarter is Fenner's Ground, on the 
 farther side of Parker's Piece. Who- 
 ever desires to witness the most 
 recent developments of aeademical 
 strength and science, should visit 
 Fenner's Ground, where some ath- 
 letic contests are going on daily in 
 term time. 
 
 On the S. side of Parker's Piece is 
 the County Gaol. 
 
 Returning to and passing Em- 
 manuel College, the next reached is 
 Chi-isfs College — at the junction of 
 St. Andi-ew's Street with the Petty 
 Cury, Hobson's-lane, and Sidney - 
 street. The ch. in front of Christ's 
 is St. Andrew's. (See post. Churches). 
 (Messrs. Swan, carriers, in Hobson's- 
 lane, possess a curious portrait of 
 the famous carrier Hobson, mounted 
 on a black horse.) 
 
 Christ's College — the college of 
 Milton, and of the " Platonists " 
 Henry Moore and Cud worth — is 
 chiefly interesting from its associa- 
 tions with the author of ' Paradise 
 Lost.' His rooms are still pointed 
 out; and a mulberry-tree, said to 
 have been planted by him, is still 
 most carefully preserved in the gar- 
 den. The buildings of Christ's are 
 of no great interest. The garden is 
 
 one of the best and most agreeable 
 in Cambridge. 
 
 A foundation called " God's 
 House," for a master and " scholars in 
 grammar," was established in 1439 
 by William Byngham, rector of St. 
 John Zaehary in Loutlon, on part of 
 the site afterwards appropriated to 
 King's College. In 1446, Byngham, 
 giving up the first site to King's, re- 
 moved his foundation to the present 
 site of Christ's College. The house 
 consisted of a master and 4 scholars 
 when Margaret Beaufort, Countess 
 of Richmond, the mother of Henry 
 VII., obtained, in 1505, the royal 
 licence for converting God's House 
 into Christ's College. She had es- 
 tablished divinity professorships in 
 both Universities in 1497, and had 
 made her arrangements for the new 
 foundation of St. John's College be- 
 fore her death in 1509. (See that 
 College.) 
 
 The Lady Margaret, who, if some- 
 what imperious and self-willed, was 
 one of the most truly religious and 
 charitable personages of that or per- 
 haps of any age (see her funeral ser- 
 mon by Bp. Fisher in Wordsworth's 
 ' Eccles.Biog.') is thus the real foun- 
 dress of Christ's College. She en- 
 larged the older house, and settled 
 numerous manors and foundations on 
 the new one. She herself retained 
 rooms in her new College, and, says 
 Fuller, once " coming to behold it 
 when partly built, and looking out of 
 a window, saw the deane call a faulty 
 scholar to correction, to whom she 
 said ' Lente, lente' — ' Gently, gently,' 
 as accounting it better to mitigate his 
 punishment than procui'e his par- 
 don." 
 
 The arms and supporters of the 
 foundress are disjilayed above the 
 portal of Christ's as they are above 
 that of St. John's. The gateway it- 
 self has flanking turrets, and belongs 
 to the same class with those of St. 
 John's and of Jesus ; but portal and 
 W. front were cased with stone in 
 
368 
 
 JRouie 1. — Cambridge : ChrisCs College; Sect. lY. 
 
 the last centy. at tho cost of Dr. 
 Thomas Lynford, Archdeacon of 
 Barnstaple (d. 1724), once a fellow 
 here. Nearly all trace of antiquity 
 Avas then extini^uished, and the in- 
 terior of the first court was soon 
 afterwards treated in similar fashion. 
 The eastern side of Tree Court, be- 
 yond it, was built about 1642, and 
 deserves notice. The design is at- 
 tributed to Inigo Jones ; but although 
 it is not unjDleasing, it is far ex- 
 ceeded in beauty and dignity by the 
 almost contemporary buildings of 
 Clare. The Chapel is ancient, but 
 ■was much altered in the last centy. 
 The stained glass in the E. window 
 (ancient) has replaced small figures 
 of the foundress, her father and 
 mother, her son Hen. VII., and her 
 2 husbands, the Earls of Eichmond 
 and Derby. These are still pre- 
 served, and will eventually find 
 places in the side windows. Within 
 the altar rails is the hrass of an 
 ecclesiastic in academical habit, 
 usually assigned to Edward Han- 
 ford, Master (d. 1.583). There is also 
 a slab with inscription for Ralph 
 Cudworth, Master (d. 1681); and, 
 against the wall, an inscription 
 commemorating Cudworth in con- 
 nection with Joseph Mede (d. 1638), 
 and Henry More (d. 1687), both 
 fellows, and both, like Cudworth, 
 buried in this chapel. " They," 
 runs the inscription, " for the re- 
 treat of a college refused consider- 
 able preferments, and here led a life 
 of Christian contemplation, charity, 
 and usefulness." At the W. end is 
 an ancient full-length portrait of 
 the foundress. 
 
 The Hall contains nothing spe- 
 cially noticeable. 
 
 In the Library is a large blank 
 volume, with gilt clasps and bosses, 
 having the arms of the foundress on 
 the sides. This is coeval with tlie 
 College, and may have been intended 
 for a register. 
 
 In the IMaster's Lodge is a por- 
 trait of Cudwortli. 
 
 Among the j>?afe is a large cup, 
 which from the arms on it seems to 
 have belonged to Humphrey, Duke 
 of Gloucester (Shakespeare's Duke 
 Humphrey). It may have descended 
 from him to the foundress, and so 
 have come to the College. The 
 " salts " and Ajaostle spoons are also 
 fine. 
 
 The Garden, covering about 3 
 acres, is well laid out, and some pic- 
 turesque views are to be obtained 
 from it. ■ (Remark the very effec- 
 tive manner in which the new 
 spire of All Saints' Church rises 
 between the trees.) The garden 
 contains a large summer - house, 
 with an open swimming-bath in 
 front of it. Opposite are busts of 
 Milton, Cudworth, and Saunderson 
 (the latter Lucasian Professor, d. 
 1739) ; and on one side of the bath 
 is an ornamental urn with an in- 
 scription to the memory of Joseph 
 Mede. Mede, a man of great and 
 ]ieculiar learning, is best known by 
 his ' Commentary on the Apoca- 
 lypse,' and was a predecessor of 
 Cudworth and Henry More — " Pla- 
 tonists," or as they were then called 
 "• Latitude-men," — learned and ex- 
 cellent, but " learned rather in pro- 
 fane philosophy than in the Fathers — 
 more full of Plato and Plotinus than 
 Jerome or Ciirysostom." 
 
 The garden of Christ's is, how- 
 ever, chiefly visited for the sake of 
 the famous mulberry-tree. A constant 
 tradition (so far as can be ascer- 
 tained) maintains that this tree was 
 planted by Milton. However this 
 may be (and Mr. Masson in his Life 
 of the poet refers to it rather slight- 
 ingly) the tree itself is venerable 
 and picturesque, in spite of the 
 props required for maintaining it in 
 its present position. It stands on a 
 green plot at the end of the garden. 
 Part of the trunk has been covered 
 with sheet lead and banked with 
 
Cambridge. Boute 1. — Sidney Sussex College. 
 
 SCO 
 
 earth. The tree bears fruit plenti- 
 fully, though some of the outer 
 branches show signs of decay. 
 
 John Milton (b. Dec. 9, 1G08) was 
 admitted a pensioner of Christ's 
 Feb, 12, lG2i, at the age of 16 years 
 and 2 months. 3Iilton's rooms are 
 in the older part of the College. 
 They are the first-floor rooms on the 
 first stair on the left side of the main 
 court, entering by the gateway from 
 St. Andrew's - street. They consist 
 of a small study and bedi'oom, in 
 which of coui'se, as was then the cus- 
 tom, Milton had a " chamber fel- 
 low." Wordsw^orth, in the ' Pre- 
 lude,' says that the first and only 
 time in his life when he drank too 
 much wine was at a party in these 
 rooms. Milton lived here for 7 years 
 leaving the University at the age of 
 23. Here, among other poems, he 
 wrote the ' Hymn on Christ's Na- 
 tivity ' (Christmas Day, 1629), and 
 many ' Vacation Exercises ' in Eng- 
 lish and Latin. The story of his 
 having been publicly whipped whilst 
 at college — supported by Johnson — 
 rests entirely on a passage in Aubrey's 
 MS. Life of Milton, and is at least 
 doubtful. He was called " the 
 lady," from his delicate complexion, 
 beauty of feature, and long brown 
 hair ; but the often-told story that a 
 young foreign lady found him asleep 
 under a tree near Cambridge, and 
 was so struck by his beauty that she 
 k'ft some Italian verses by his side, 
 which led him to visit Italy in quest 
 of his fair unknown, is mythical, and 
 has been assigned to more than one 
 great poet. Edward King, di'owned 
 on his passage to Ireland (August 
 10, 1637) was a fellow of Christ's 
 College. In the following year 
 the University published a collection 
 of Latin and English verses in his 
 memory, and among them first 
 appeared Milton's ' Lycidas.' 
 
 The College possesses an original 
 model in clay of the head of Milton, 
 deposited here in 1816 by Mr. Disney 
 
 of the Hyde in Essex, This model 
 had been in the possession of Vertue, 
 and w^as sold by him to Mr. Thomas 
 Holies. Vertue held it to be the 
 work of Pierce, a sculptor of some 
 note, who carved the l)ust of Wren 
 in the Bodleian. Mr. Holies thought 
 it was modelled by Abraham Simon. 
 From the models were composed the 
 engravings by Vertue for Milton's 
 ' Prose Works ' (editions 1738-1753); 
 Kysbrach's bust in Westminster Ab- 
 bey (1737) ; and Scheemaker's bust 
 executed for Dr. Mead. 
 
 Leland, the antiquary (d. 1552); 
 Latimer, Bp. of Worcester (d. 1557) ; 
 Quarles of the ' Emblems ' (d. 1644) ; 
 Archdeacon Paley (d, 1805); and the 
 Prime Minister, Lord Liverpool 
 (d, 1828), were, besides those already 
 mentioned, educated at Christ's Col- 
 lege. 
 
 [The name of the Petty Cunj, the 
 street which runs westward opjDosite 
 Christ's College, has given rise to 
 much specidation. The late Mr. 
 Cooper considered that it meant the 
 " Little Cookery," and his opinion 
 seems to have been generally 
 adopted. There are some old houses 
 in this street worth notice, especially 
 one on the 1. hand (now an inn), 
 which seems Elizabethan.] 
 
 {^Christ's Pieces are open greens at 
 the back of the College. A path 
 leads directly across them, crossing 
 Jesus -lane and skirting Jesus 
 Close, to the boats on the river (see 
 'post).'\ 
 
 In Sidney-street, Holy Trinity 
 Ch, (see^os^, Churches^ is passed 1. 
 Sidney Sussex College is on the rt, 
 side of the street. 
 
 Sidney Sussex College — so named 
 by its foundress Frances Sidney, 
 widow of Thomas Kadcliffe, Earl of 
 Sussex, one of the greatest and 
 worthiest of Elizabeth's nobles — in 
 assuming a false air of Gothic, has 
 
 E 3 
 
370 
 
 Boute 1. — Cambridge : 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 almost entirely lost its orig;inal and [ 
 picturesque character, thanks to Sir 
 Jeffry Wyatville, the famous " de- 
 structive " of Salisbury and of Dur- 
 ham Cathedrals. The College oc- 
 cupies the site of a house of Fran- 
 ciscans or Grey Friars, established 
 soon after 1224, and of considerable 
 importance. Nearly all the Fran- 
 ciscan convents in the counties of 
 Norfolk and SutFolk were subor- 
 dinate to this at Cambridge, which 
 was an academical as well as reli- 
 gious foundation, the members 
 usually taking degrees in divinity, 
 and one of them (Oliver Stanway) 
 having been Chancellor of the Uni- 
 versity early in the 14th centy. The 
 house was suppressed in 1538, and in 
 1546 the site was granted to Trinity 
 College. The Countess of Sussex, 
 to whom the earl at his death in 
 1583 had left considerable estates 
 and property, herself died in 15S9, 
 and provided by her will that 5000/. 
 and other sums should be emj)loyed 
 for erecting and founding a new col- 
 lege in Cambridge. If the money 
 should not be sufficient for establish- 
 ing a new college, it was to be used 
 for the enlargement and benefit of 
 Clare Hall. The College was, how- 
 ever, founded by her executors — the 
 Earl of Kent and Sir John Harring- 
 ton — the Franciscan site being made 
 over to them, under certain condi- 
 tions, by the master and fellows of 
 Trinity. The buildings were finished 
 in 1599, and 11 fellows were then 
 appointed. Successive benefactors 
 did much for the new college, and 
 Sidney Sussex has maintained a 
 by no means unworthy position 
 among the older foundations. Oliver 
 Cromivell was admitted a fellow com- 
 moner of this College, "under the 
 tuition of Mr. Kichard Hewlett," 
 April 23, 1616. He took no degree, 
 and soon after July, 1617, became a 
 member of one of the Inns of Court. 
 There are stories of his "misbe- 
 haviour " at Cambridge, which seem 
 to have little foundation. Between 
 
 the entry of his admission at Sidney 
 Sussex and the succeeding entry are 
 these words : *' Hie fuit grandis ille 
 impostor, carnifex perditissimus, qui 
 pientissimo rege Carolo prime ne- 
 faria cscde sublato, ipsum usurpavit 
 thronum, et tria regna per quinque 
 ferme annorum spatiuni, sub protec- • 
 toris nomine, indomita tyrannidc 
 vexavit." The writer would hardly 
 have been pleased to see the por- 
 trait of his " carnifex " in the place 
 of honour it occupies at the lodge. 
 
 The ai'chitect of tl le Countess's new 
 college was Ralph Simons, builder of 
 the second court of St. John's and of 
 Emmanuel College, founded in 1584 
 (see that College). His work con- 
 sisted of a single court, to which 
 Sir Francis Clerke soon afterwards 
 added a second on the S. Both were 
 many-gabled and picturesque, of 
 brick, with stone dressings. There 
 was a lofty ornamented gateway fac- 
 ing the street. All this work was 
 entirely obliterated by Wyatville 
 soon after 1830. The brick was 
 covered with cement, the gables 
 were replaced by eccentric turrets 
 and crowsteps, and the old gateway 
 was s>vept away altogether. There 
 is consequently little of architectural 
 value or interest here. The present 
 Chapel, plain and unimportant, was 
 built in 1776 from the designs of 
 James Essex. The altar-piece — a 
 " Eepose in Egypt " — is by Francisco 
 Pitfoni. The Hall, wainscoted, and 
 with a modern ceiling, contains at 
 the end a good portrait of the foim- 
 dress, whose arms, properly em- 
 blazoned, are opposite. She was the 
 4th daughter of Sir William Sidney, 
 chamberlain and steward of the 
 household to Edward VI., and con- 
 sequently was the aunt of Sir Philip 
 Sydney, who by his will left her a 
 " ring with a diamond." Her jDor- 
 trait (the artist is unknown) is a 
 full-length, standing in front of an 
 embroidered chair. In the Library 
 is the sculptured face of Cromwell, 
 
Cambridge. Boute 1. — Sidney Sussex College. 
 
 371 
 
 executed by Bernini from a cast 
 taken immediately after the Pro- 
 tector's death ; there is also, in a 
 cabinet, the skull of a youthful per- 
 son encrusted with carbonate of 
 lime, and found in 1627 about 10 
 yards below the surface of the ground 
 in digging a well near Candia in 
 Crete. It was shown by Dr. Harvey 
 (of the " circulation ") to Charles I., 
 who "wondered att it, and look'd 
 content to see soe rare a thing." 
 The books and MSS. here are of 
 no special importance. There is an- 
 other collection in the College, en- 
 tirely scientific and mathematical, 
 called the Taylor Library, founded 
 in 1726 by Samuel Taylor of Dudley. 
 A mathematical lectureship and 
 scholarships were also founded by 
 him. 
 
 The Master's Lodge has attached 
 to it a large and pleasant garden 
 with some fine trees ; and the garden 
 front, where Wyatville has allowed 
 the old oriels to remain, is perhaps 
 the best portion of the existing Col- 
 lege. In the dining-room of the 
 lodge hangs the famous crayon draw- 
 ing of Cromwell by Samuel Coo])er, 
 which probably gives a more faith- 
 ful and complete impression of the 
 great Protector than any other por- 
 trait in existence. It is on pajDer, 
 14 by 12 inches. The hair is grey, 
 the face much lined. This treasure 
 was given to the College in a some- 
 what remarkable fashion by Mr. 
 Thomas Holies, of the Hyde in 
 Essex, a well-known lover of art, 
 and founder of the collection which 
 afterwards passed to Mr. Disney, 
 and was transferred in great part 
 to the Fitzwilliam Museum, (See 
 under that head.;. Mr. Holies' 
 name did not appear in the first 
 letter to the Master and Fellows, 
 "which ran as follows : — "An English- 
 man, an Assertor of Liberty, citizen 
 of the world, is desirous of having 
 the honour to present an original 
 portrait in crayon of the head of 0. 
 
 Cromwell, Protector, drawn by 
 Cooper, to Sidney Sussex College in 
 Cambridge. London, Jan. 15, 1766^ 
 
 'I freely declare it I am for old Noll ; 
 
 Though his government did a Tyrant re- 
 semble, 
 
 He made England great and his enemies 
 tremble.' — A. Marvell. 
 
 It is requested that the portrait may 
 be placed so as to receive the light 
 from left to right, and to be free 
 from sunshine. Also that the favor 
 of a line may be written on the 
 arrival of it, directed to Pierce Dcl- 
 ver, at Mr. Shoves, Bookbinder, in 
 Madder Lane, Covent Garden, Lon- 
 don." The ofier was of course ac- 
 cepted, and the second note runs : — 
 " A small case was sent yesterday by 
 the Cambridge waggon from the 
 Green Dragon in Bishopsgate-street, 
 directed to Dr. Elliston, Master of 
 S.S.C., Cambridge, free of carriage. 
 It contains a portrait which the 
 Master and Fellows of the College 
 are requested to accept. London, 
 Jan. 18, 1766." It afterwards be- 
 came known that the portrait came 
 from Mr. Holies. There was thus 
 some little mystery in the presenta- 
 tion, but there is no truth whatever 
 in the story often told that the por- 
 trait was brought by two unknown 
 persons, to whom Dr. Elliston was 
 not allowed to say more than "I 
 have it," as the case was put in his 
 hands on the staircase. The ori- 
 ginal letters are preserved at the 
 Lodge. 
 
 Besides this portrait there are at 
 the Lodge portraits of the 1st Lord 
 Montagu ; of Bishop Montagu ; of 
 Archbishop Bramhall ; and of many 
 of the Masters. There is also a jior- 
 trait of the architect, Ealph Simons. 
 The College possesses a very beauti- 
 ful cup, said to be the work of Cel- 
 lini — and not unworthy of him— and 
 a large and fine rose-water dish and 
 ewer. 
 
 The name of Cromwell over- 
 shadows those of other eminent men 
 
372 
 
 Bonte 1. — Cambridge 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 ■who liavo belonged to this College. 
 Among them are Samuel Ward, 
 Master, one of the translators of the 
 Bible (d. 1643); Thomas May, his- 
 torian of the Long Parliament (d. 
 1650) ; Fuller, of the ' Worthies ' (d. 
 1661); Abp. Bramhall (d. 1663); 
 Edward Calamy, the Nonconform- 
 ist (d. 1685) ; Thomas Comber, Dean 
 of Durham (d. 1699) ; Sir Eoger 
 L'Estrange (d. 1704) ; Rymer, of the 
 'Fcedera' (d.l713): Thomas Wilson, 
 Bp. of Sodor and Man (d. 1755) ; 
 Jones, of Nayland (d. 1800) ; Cecil, 
 the "Evangelical" (d. 1810). 
 
 Jesus-lane, between Sidney Sus- 
 sex College and Bridge-street, leads 
 to 
 
 Jesus College, remotely placed, and 
 occui^ying a somewhat similar posi- 
 tion, with respect to tlie other Col- 
 leges, to that of Worcester College at 
 Oxford. It is on the rt. bank of the 
 Cam, which makes a direct bend to 
 the S.E. alter passing St. John's; 
 and the broad space between Jesus 
 College and the river is entirely open, 
 King James I. is reported to have 
 said that, were he free to choose, he 
 would pray at King's, dine at 
 Trinity, and study and sleep at 
 Jesus. The principal attraction 
 at Jesus is the Chapel, which is for 
 the most part E. Eng., and is one 
 of the most interesting buildings in 
 Cambridge. 
 
 The site of Jesus was that of a 
 Benedictine nunnery, founded (by 
 whom is uncertain) about 1133, 
 and afterwards much benefited by 
 Constance, daughter of Lewis VI. of 
 France, and widow of Eustace, son 
 of King Stephen ; and by Malcolm 
 IV. of Scotland, who was regarded 
 as the founder of the liouse. The 
 convent was dedicated to St. Mary 
 and St. Rhadegunde, and the nuns 
 were known as the " nuns of St. 
 Rhadegunde." The house was never 
 very wealthy, and the neighbour- 
 hood of the University did it no 
 good.^ .Toward the end of th© 15th 
 
 conty, it had fallen into such dis- 
 credit that John Alcock, Bp. of Ely, 
 in 1497 procured letters patent from 
 Henry VII., giving him authority to 
 convert the house into a College for 
 a master,' and fellow^s, and scholars, 
 and to transfer to the new College 
 all the property which had belonged 
 to the nuns. The College was at 
 first known as that of St. Mary, St. 
 John, and St. Rhadegunde. At a 
 later period it assumed the name 
 of Jesus College. Bp. Alcock is, of 
 course, regarded as the founder. 
 
 The Chapel and some other por- 
 tions of the College are older than 
 Bp. Alcock's time. The College is 
 entered by a lofty gate tower of 
 brick, built soon after the founda- 
 tion in 1497, and very good. The 
 arms over the archway are those of 
 England and France quarterly. On 
 either side are the shield of Ely 
 and that of Bp. Alcock, whose " 3 
 cock's heads erased" frequently oc- 
 cur throughout the College. A 
 small statue of him has been placed 
 (of late years) within the beautiful 
 niche on the gateway, and the niche 
 itself is crowned by his crest and 
 motto. The first court, nearly covered 
 with ivy, is open on one side to the 
 meadow, and was built partly during 
 the mastership of Dr. Sterne, between 
 1638-1643, and partly in and after 
 1718. (Dr. Sterne was Laud's chap- 
 lain, and attended him on the scaf- 
 fold. He afterwards became Bp. 
 of Carlisle, and Abp. of York. He 
 was the great-grandfather of Law- 
 rence Sterne, author of ' Tristram 
 Shandy,' who was educated here). 
 1'he second court is surrounded by 
 a cloister dating from early in the 
 l6th centy., but occupying the same 
 ground as the earlier cloister of the 
 nunnery. The doorway between 
 the 2 courts should be noticed. In the 
 second court are the entrances to 
 the chapel and hall. Beyond again, 
 and fronting Jesus Close, is a range 
 of buildings which have lately been 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Bmite 1. — Jesus College. 
 
 373 
 
 refronted by Waterhoiise, and are 
 very eftective. 
 
 The Chai^el (to be seen between 
 12 and 4) was the ancient eh. of the 
 nunnery. It is cruciform, with a 
 tower at the intersection, and is 
 almost entirely E. Eng., though some 
 portions are more ancient. It is re- 
 corded that in 1277 the bell-tower 
 (the central tower?) fell, and did 
 mucli damage to the ch. In 1343 
 and 1376 the convent was greatly in- 
 jured by fire, and in 1390 it suffered 
 much from a great storm. It does 
 not ajjpear in wliat condition the eh. 
 was found by Bp. Alcock, but he 
 altered it greatly. It had a nave 
 and aisles, and its presbytery was 
 flanked by chapels. Bp. Alcock 
 pulled down these chapels, the 
 greater part of the nave, and the 
 aisles of the portion he allowed to re- 
 main. The pier arches communicat- 
 ing with the chapels and aisles he 
 filled up, inserting in each a Perp. 
 ■window. He rebuilt the gable of the 
 S. transept, inserting a Perp. window 
 in that and in the E. end of the pres- 
 bytery. A Perp. story was raised 
 on the tower, and a new flat ceiling 
 of oak was constructed. The ancient 
 ch. was thus converted into a college 
 chapel. Toward the end of the last 
 centy. it underwent a " beautifying," 
 as the process was then understood. 
 The rich woodwork of the stalls was 
 removed and sold. (It went to Land- 
 beach Ch., where it still remains — 
 see .Rte. 3). The walls were co- 
 loured yellow, with a black band at 
 the base, and the ceiling was plas- 
 tered over. Some attempt at re- 
 storation was made about 50 years 
 afterwards, but in 1845 it was taken 
 in hand zealously, and the choir, re- 
 newed and refitted, was once more 
 opened in 1849. The ante-chapel — 
 the remaining part of the old nave — 
 has been lately decorated in parts 
 but is still (1870) incomplete. 
 
 The restoration comprised a new 
 high-pitched roof for the choir, the 
 
 opening of the tower arcades, closed 
 when the plaster ceiling was con- 
 structed, a restoration of the E. Eng. 
 triplet and blind arches of the eastern 
 end, and a complete set of wooden 
 fittings — stalls and screen. The 
 efiect is unusually good and striking. 
 The graceful piers and arcades of the 
 central tower (E. Eng.), and the 
 very picturesque triforial gallery 
 leading to it in the wall of the N. 
 transept, deserve special notice. The 
 lateral lancets of the choir have ad- 
 mirable shafts and mouldings. The 
 arcade on the S. side forms sedilia 
 and a rich double piscina. The 
 choir screen should be specially no- 
 ticed. The stalls, so far as possi- 
 ble, were modelled on those at Land- 
 beach. The glass in the choir is by 
 Hardman. The organ is new and 
 fine. Much colour has been intro- 
 duced in both choir and ante-chapel. 
 At the W. end of the ante-chapel is 
 a tablet with medallion for Tobias 
 Rustat, " yeoman of the robes to 
 King Charles the Second," who 
 founded 16 scholarships here, "and 
 found, the more he bestowed ujjon 
 churches, hospitalls,universityes and 
 colleges, and upon poore widows of 
 orthodox ministers, the more he had 
 at the year's end." He died " a 
 batchelor " in 1693. 
 
 The Hall, on the E. side of the 
 cloister, occupies the site of the old 
 refectory. It is Bp. Alcock's work, 
 and has a good roof springing from 
 excellent corbels, and a very elegant 
 oriel. It was wainscoted in 1703. 
 In it are portraits of Abp. Cranmer 
 (a fellow here), a copy by Sir Joshua 
 Beynolds ; Tobias Rustat, by Sir 
 Peter Lely ; Abp. Sterne, and Dr. 
 E. D. Clarke. 
 
 The Combination Boom is rich in 
 portraits. The most important are 
 — a full-length of Bp. Alcock, the 
 founder, in episcopal vestments, 
 kneeling before a table on which a 
 book and mitre are placed. He died 
 in 1500, and the College accounts 
 
374 
 
 Route 1. — Camhridge : 
 
 Sect. ly. 
 
 for 1596-7 contain an entry "For 
 drawing our Founder's picture, 
 11. Gs. Sd." It is therefore a com- 
 position from some earlier portrait. 
 (For a notice of Bp. Alcock, see Ely 
 Cathedral, Rte. 3). Abp. Cranmer, 
 by Holbein ; to the waist, and on 
 panel. The date 1548 is on the 
 picture, and the words " astatis snse 
 58." It was given to the College by 
 Lord Middleton, whose wife was a 
 kinswoman of Cranmer's. Henry 
 VIII. Mary Queen of Scots, a bust, 
 with flat cap and transparent wimple 
 over black dress. Bancroft, Abp. of 
 Canterbury. William Harvey, dis- 
 coverer of the circulation of the 
 blood; half-length, in robe furred 
 with sable. There is also a bust of 
 Dr. E. D. Clarke, and portraits of 
 some masters and fellows of the Col- 
 lege. 
 
 The Library, a large low room, 
 contains a good collection of printed 
 books and some MSS. In one of the 
 windows Bp. Alcock's crest or badge 
 is conspicuous. A crowing cock has 
 a label attached with the words 'Eyw 
 elfxl aXeKTcop — " I am a cock ; " and a 
 cock on the opposite side replies, 
 "OvTccs Kttl iyu) — " And so am I." 
 
 Of the eminent men of Jesus Col- 
 lege, besides those already men- 
 tioned, it may be sufficient to name 
 Fulke Greville, Lord Brooke, the 
 poet (d. 1628); Sir Richard Fan- 
 shawe, the diplomatist, M.P. for the 
 University (d. 1666) ; and last, but 
 not least, Samuel Taylor Coleridge 
 (d. 1834). 
 
 Opposite Jesus College (in Jesus- 
 lane) is the new Ch. of All Saints 
 (see post, Churches) removed to this 
 site from Trinity - street, w^here it 
 stood nearly facing the lane that 
 divides Trinity College from St. 
 John's. The spire of the new ch. 
 is a fine object in all the distant 
 views of Cambridge, and groups well 
 with the surrounding buildings. 
 
 [The Dolphin Inn — once ot great 
 
 celebrity — stood near Jesus College, 
 at the corner of what is now known 
 as All Saints'-passage. Abp. Cran- 
 mer vacated his fellowship at Jesus 
 by marrying the niece of the land- 
 lady of the Dolphin, and after his 
 marriage lived with her at that 
 inn.] 
 
 A path across Jesus-gi-een (turn 
 lip Park-street in Jesus-lane, be- 
 tween Jesus College and Bridge- 
 street) leads to the boats and the 
 boathouses ; institutions the import- 
 ance of which, both here and at 
 Oxford, has increased to an extra- 
 vagant extent within the last 30 
 years. The Cam, it need hardly be 
 said, is very inferior to the Oxford 
 river, although the coui'se has been 
 greatly improved by art. The pro- 
 cession of college boats, w^hich takes 
 place annually at the Commence- 
 ment (answering to the Oxford 
 Commemoration) is singularly pic- 
 turesque. It follows the com-se of 
 the Cam thi-ough the grounds of the 
 different colleges. 
 
 Eeturning by Jesus-lane and en- 
 tering Bridge - street, the very in- 
 teresting St. Sepulchre's Ch. (see 
 2Mst, Churches) and >S'^. Clement's Ch. 
 (post) are passed rt. The Cam is 
 then crossed, and Magdalene College 
 is reached rt. 
 
 Adjoining St. Sepulchre's are the 
 new buildings of the Cambridge 
 Union Society, a society which in 
 every respect resembles the " Union " 
 at Oxford. Debates are regularly 
 held, as at Oxford. There are good 
 reading-rooms and a good library. 
 Tlie architect of the new building- 
 was Waterhouse (architect of the 
 new court of Caius), and, in spite of 
 great disadvantages of site, he has 
 been very successful both in design 
 and arrangements. 
 
 Magdalene College, across the so- 
 called " Great Bridge " at the end of 
 Bridge-street, is the only College in 
 Cambridge the whole of w^hich is 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boute 1. — Magdalene College. 
 
 175 
 
 situated on tbe left bank of the Cam. 
 The interest here is almost entirely 
 confined to the Pepysian Library, 
 left to the College by the famous 
 Samuel Pepys of the ' Diary.' 
 
 Magdalene College occupies the 
 site of a house founded about 1428 
 for the education of young Benedic- 
 tine monks, sent by their monas- 
 teries to Cambridge for education. 
 This house was at first called 
 "Monk's Hostel," but about 1483 
 it became known as Buckingham 
 College,, probably in compliment to 
 Henry Stafford, Duke of Bucking- 
 ham, who seems to have been a 
 great benefactor. He was the father 
 of Edward Stafford, the last duke of 
 that family. The College was at- 
 tached to, and had been founded at 
 the request of, Crowland Abbey ; 
 and at the Dissolution it escheated 
 to the Crown as part of the posses- 
 sions of that abbey. In 1542, how- 
 ever, license was granted to Thomas, 
 Lord Audley — one of Henry's most 
 unhesitating servants, who had been 
 actively concerned in the dissolution 
 of the religious houses — to found a 
 new College on the site of Bucking- 
 ham College, with the name of the 
 " College of St. Mary Magdalene." 
 (For Lord Audley, see Essex, Rte. 
 11, Audley End and Safi"ron Walden. 
 However unscrupulous he may have 
 1)een in the service of Henry, for re- 
 ligion and learning he did more by 
 his Cambridge foundation than was 
 attempted by the greater number of 
 those who enriched themselves from 
 monastic spoils.) 
 
 Some portions 'of the older Col- 
 lege remain. But the buildings of 
 Magdalene are not very imposing 
 or interesting, with the exception 
 of the so-called " New Building," 
 or "Bibliotheca Pepysiana," which 
 stretches across the E. end of the 
 second court. This was built about 
 1688, and is sufiflciently picturesque. 
 Over the windows are the arms of 
 Samuel Pcpys, Christopher AYray 
 
 (Lord Chief Justice, who toward 
 the end of the IGth centy. established 
 fellowships and scholarships, and 
 much enlarged the buildings), and 
 Dr. Peckard (Master, and Dean of 
 Peterborough, a great benefactor to 
 the College, circ. 1797). On a scroll 
 is inscribed Pepys' motto — " Mens 
 cujusque is est quisque." The date 
 1724 marks the time when the Col- 
 lege became possessed of Pepys' 
 valuable legacy, which was not until 
 the death of his nephew John Jack- 
 son. The Pepysian Library can 
 only, of course, be seen or consulted 
 by si^ecial permission, the rules pro- 
 viding that the presence of the 
 Master and 1 of the 4 fellows of tlie 
 older fovmdationis necessary. Among 
 its treasures — besides many early 
 printed books by Caxton, Wynkyn 
 de Worde, and Pynson, are — 5 vols, 
 of 'Early English Ballads,' well 
 known to all those wlio, like the 
 Clown in the ' Winter's Tale,' 
 "love a ballad but even too well," 
 and much used by Percy and Evans ; 
 3 vols, of ' State Papers ; ' the Mait- 
 land MSS., consisting of ancient 
 Scottish poems collected by Mait- 
 land of Lethington (d. 1586); 4 vols, 
 of Old Plays ; 4 vols, of ' Vulgaria,' 
 or Chap books ; many ancient Ga- 
 zettes and News Pamphlets ; and 
 Sir Francis Drake's ' Pocket Tables,' 
 with his autograph. Here, too, is 
 preserved Mr. Pepys' famous ' Diary, 
 from Jan. 1, 1659-GO, to May 31, 
 1669,' in 6 vols., written throughout 
 in shorthand. Its interest was un- 
 guessed at until tlie Hon. George 
 Neville, Master of the College, and 
 his brother the late Richard, Lord 
 Braybrook, laid it before their uncle, 
 Lord Grenville, the scholar and 
 statesman. He had been much ac- 
 customed to reading shorthand, and 
 furnished a key to the ' Diary,' both 
 of which were submitted to the Rev. 
 John Smith, who succeeded in de- 
 cyphering the whole. The book 
 was first edited by Lord Braybrooke 
 (2 vols. 4to.) in 1825. A second ecli- 
 
376 
 
 Horde 1. — Cambridge: Castle; 
 
 8ect. IV. 
 
 tion appeared in 1828, and a tliird — 
 containing many passages which had 
 been omitted in the former two — in 
 
 1848. 
 
 The College Library is distinct 
 from the Pepysian ; and although 
 good, contains nothing of special 
 note. 
 
 The Chapel, on the N. side of the 
 first court, was restored in 1847. 
 There had been a plaster ceiling, 
 which was then removed. The 
 earlier woodwork was carefully re- 
 stored, and the old, high-pitched 
 timber roof (temp. Ed, IV.) brought 
 again into view. The E. window 
 and tliose adjoining are filled with 
 stained glass; the E. and N. by 
 Hardman; the S. by the Kev. 
 Vincent Kaven and some other 
 amateurs. 
 
 The Hall has a very picturesque 
 double staircase at the lower end, 
 leading to the Combination Eoom. 
 In it are portraits of Lord Audley 
 (copy from tliat at Audley End); 
 Edward Staflbrd, Duke of Bucking- 
 ham (copy); copies from portraits 
 of Dr. liainbow, Bp. of Carlisle ; 
 Sir Christopher Wray, and Cumber- 
 land, Bp. of Peterborough. The 
 portrait of Pepys is an original by 
 Lehj^ and of course very interesting. 
 Those of Henry Howard, Earl of 
 Suftblk, who died at Audley End, in 
 174.5 ; and of John Lord Braybrooke, 
 mark the connection of the college 
 with Audley End. The terms of 
 the original foundation provide that 
 the IMaster shall always be appointed 
 by the representatives of Lord 
 Audley. 
 
 The IMastcr's Lodge, begun in 
 1835, enjoys large gardens and 
 grounds, and a terrace on the N. 
 side is formed on an outer embank- 
 ment of l\oman Cainboritum. In the 
 house are many portraits of the 
 Ferrars ; and one of Edward Stafford, 
 
 3rd Duke of Buckingham (beheaded 
 1521). This was given to the College 
 by Browne Willis, and has been 
 engraved by Houbraken. 
 
 Samuel Pepys was himself educated 
 at this College. The only notice of 
 him in the Register Book records 
 that Oct. 12, 1653, " Peapys and 
 Hind were solemnly admonished 
 . . . for having been scandalously 
 overserved with drink y^ night be- 
 fore." In 1668 Pepys revisited his 
 former haunts. " I took my boy," 
 he says, " and two brothers, and 
 walked to Magdalene College, and 
 there into the butterys, as a stranger, 
 and there drank of their beer, which 
 pleased me as the best I ever drank ; 
 and heare by the buttery man, who 
 was son to Goody Mulliner, over 
 against the College, that we used to 
 buy stewed prunes of, concerning 
 the College and persons in it." 
 Other distinguished students here 
 were — Abp. Cranmer, educated at 
 Buckingham College, before the dis- 
 solution ; Abp, Grindal (d. 1583) ; 
 Brian Walton (of the Polvglot), Bp. 
 of Chester (d. 1661). Hutchins, the 
 historian of Dorsetshire (d. 1773) ; 
 William Bell, Canon of Westmin- 
 ster, the founder of " Bell's Schools" 
 (d. 1816). Archdeacon Wrangham 
 (d. 1842). 
 
 Beyond Magdalene, passing the 
 churches of St. Giles' (rt.), and St, 
 Peter's (1.), (see post, Churches), and 
 proceeding straight onward, the 
 Castle Hill is seen rt. The County 
 Courts (adjoining the road) were 
 built in 1842. Passing through the 
 gate on their lower side, a path will 
 be seen leading to the mound of the 
 Castle, This mound is a natural 
 hill, which has been scarped and cut 
 down probably at more than one 
 period. There was most likely a 
 British town here, and the mound 
 was included within the lines of a 
 lioman station, which lay entirely 
 N. of the Cam, and probably (not 
 quite certainly) was the Oamboritnm 
 
Cambridge. Boiiie 1. — School of Pythagoras. 
 
 377 
 
 of tho Itineraries. Miicli of 3 sides 
 is still traceable. A terrace walk 
 in the garden of Magdalen College 
 is formed on the vallum — the river 
 face of the fortification. The whole 
 measured about 1650 ft. from N. to 
 S., and 1600 ft. from E. to W. The 
 side toward Chesterton parish is no 
 longer to be traced. Many Roman 
 remains have been found here, and 
 competent antiquaries are disposed 
 to place here, ratlier than at Gran- 
 chester (see ' Excursions,' po.sO the 
 Eoman Camboritum. (The Eoman 
 city of Granta was an invention of 
 the learned and ingenious Stukeley's, 
 who, having " invented " it, declared 
 til at it was founded by Carausius.) 
 The Saxon Grantabrigge occupied 
 probably the same situation as Cam- 
 boritum, and the town (as at Lin- 
 coln) spread S. of the river after the 
 Norm. Castle was built. (If this 
 was the site of the more important 
 Eoman station it must have been at 
 this place, and not at Granchester, 
 that the monks of Ely, after St. 
 Etheldreda's death, discovered tlie 
 marble sarcophagus which served as 
 her cothn. See Bede, H. E. iv. 19). 
 "Whether Cambridge or Granchester 
 represents the "Caer Graunt" of 
 Nennius is uncertain. It has been 
 suggested that Granchester may 
 have been the British, and Cam- 
 bridge the Eoman town ; and a 
 similar suggestion has been made 
 with regard to tlie rival claims of 
 Norwich and Caister. 
 
 The Norm. Castle was built here 
 by the Conqueror, on his return from 
 York in 1068. 27 houses were de- 
 stroyed to make room for it (Domes- 
 dav). It had little subsequent 
 history. In 1293 Edw. I. lodged in 
 it " where no king had ever been 
 known to lodge before." The Castle 
 Hall was in ruins when Hen. V. gave 
 its timber and stone for the building 
 of King's Hall Chapel, and other 
 ruinous portions were used for build- 
 ing Trinity Cliapel. The Gatehouse, 
 a massive building of early character, 
 
 was only removed in 1842, when the 
 County Courts were built. (For a 
 curious story connected with this 
 Castle see Vandlebury — the present 
 Ete. ante). 
 
 The view from the Castle mound 
 is well worth seeking. The import- 
 ance of the position, overlooking a 
 great extent of fen land and flat 
 country, is at once evident, and ex- 
 plains the foundation of the British 
 and Eoman strongholds here. Cam- 
 bridge itself lies spread out on the S. 
 side of the river, the tower of St. 
 John's, the new spire of All Saints, 
 and the long line of King's Chapel, 
 being conspicuous. The masses of 
 fine trees clustering round the mea- 
 dows at the back of the colleges 
 are nowhere seen to greater advan- 
 tage. 
 
 The County Gaol, at the back of 
 tlie County Courts, was begun in 
 1802. Its buildings were arranged 
 after the designs of Howard the 
 philanthropist. 
 
 Returning from the Castle, the 
 stranger may visit the so-called School 
 of Pythagoras ; though unless he be a 
 zealous antiquary it will hardly be 
 worth his while to turn out of his 
 way for that purpose. It is some- 
 what difficult to find. (After turning 
 down Northampton-st. ask for the 
 Merton Inn, which is close by the 
 " School.") The building seems to 
 have been the house of a manor 
 held by the family of Dunning from 
 a very early period, until it was 
 bought by Walter de Merton in 1270, 
 and settled by him on his new 
 foundation at Oxford. It still be- 
 longs to Merton College, and the 
 manor is now known as that of 
 "Merton Hall." Tlie remains of 
 the manor house are Norm.; but 
 they have been much patched and 
 altered, and great part of tlie house 
 has been removed. Tlie name of 
 " Pythagoras' School " was not given 
 to it until the 16th centy., for what 
 reason does not appear, (It may also 
 
378 
 
 Boute 1. — Camhridge: 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 be reached from the road at the 
 back of the colleges. See the ijJan.) 
 
 It has already been said that the 
 grounds of the difterent colleges ex- 
 tending along the river are not con- 
 nected ; but there is a continuous 
 road beyond them, into which they 
 all open. Whoever has time sliould 
 walk along this road from one end 
 to the other. The trees bordering it 
 are fine, and the views gained are 
 sometimes striking. St. Neot's road, 
 at the N. end of this first road, leads 
 toward Madingly, and about 1 m. 
 along it, on an eminence, is the 
 Observatory, begim in 1822. The 
 dome in the centre revolves on 
 wheels, and can be moved by a single 
 hand. A very large and fine tele- 
 scope was given to the Observatory 
 by the late Duke of Northumberland 
 in 1835. 
 
 Cambridge is rich in Churches, 
 many of which deserve some notice. 
 Three are especially interesting, — 
 Great St. Man/s, St. Benedict's, and 
 the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 
 The little chapel of St. Mary Mag- 
 dalen at Sturbridge is also im- 
 portant. 
 
 Great St. Mary's (in Trumpington- 
 st.) is the ch. of the University, and 
 so far answers to the more beautiful 
 and (externally at least) more im- 
 posing St. Mary's of Oxford. It is 
 entirely late Perp., dating between 
 1478, when the first stone was laid, 
 and 1519. " All church work," says 
 Fuller, "is slow. The mention of 
 St. Mary's mindeth me of church 
 work indeed, so long was it from the 
 founding to the finishing thereof" 
 The tower was not begun until 1528, 
 and was finished about 1608. This 
 tower has been " improved," — certain 
 stone balls with which the turrets 
 were capped having been removed. 
 They were no doubt designed by 
 Robert Gnunbold, the master work- 
 man at the time of the completion 
 
 of the tower, and the builder of the 
 river front of Clare Hall, where the 
 parapet is decorated with similar 
 stone balls. The W. doorway was 
 constructed in 1850, after a design 
 by 3Ir. G. G. Scott. It was in- 
 tended that the tower should have 
 been capped by a lofty spire, but 
 this part of the original design was 
 never carried out. The outside of 
 the ch. is j)laiuer than the interior, 
 which is a good deal enriched. 
 There is a good oak roof, a fine and 
 lofty clerestory, and the mouldings 
 of the arches deserve notice. Until 
 1863 this fine ch. was greatly dis- 
 figured by a gallery called the 
 " throne," above the entrance to the 
 chancel, used by heads of houses, 
 and by another gallery for under- 
 graduates at the W. end. These 
 have happily been swept away, and 
 the galleries over the aisles (erected 
 1739) are now assigned to under- 
 graduates. Stalls have been placed 
 in the chancel, and open seats in the 
 nave and aisles, — all from Mr. Scott's 
 designs. The chancel itself was 
 restored in 1857, by Salvin. (The 
 alabaster reredos should be noticed.) 
 The organ is by Father Smith. The 
 font dates from 1632. There is a 
 finely-carved ch. chest (Perp). The 
 University sermons are preached 
 here on Sunday afternoons only. 
 Commencements (answering to the 
 Oxford "commemoration"), now held 
 in the Senate House, were formerly 
 held in this ch. ; and in 1606 the 
 heads prohibited the "taking of 
 tobacco " in the ch. at such periods. 
 Martin Bucer, who died in Cam- 
 bridge, was buried in the chancel of 
 Great St. Mary's, March, 1550-1. 
 His body was disinterred after the ac- 
 cession of Mary, and burnt in the 
 market-place (1556). The ch. was 
 for a time placed under an interdict. 
 
 St. Benedict's Ch. (in Benet-st., 
 turning E. out of Trumpington-st.) 
 is of very great interest. The tower, 
 which has long and short work at 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boute I. "^Churches. 
 
 379 
 
 its angles, and remarkable windows 
 divided by balusters in its upper 
 story, is very probably pre-Norm. 
 There is long and short work also 
 at the N.E. angle of the nave. The 
 most striking feature of this ch,, 
 however, is the interior tower arch, 
 opening to the nave. This has only 
 lately (1869) been cleared from gal- 
 leries and other encumbrances, and 
 is certainly one of the most notice- 
 able Romanesque arches in the 
 country. It is lofty, with engaged 
 piers, and at the sjjring of the arch 
 a kind of abacus band, above which 
 are rude and grotesque animals. 
 The Avork is altogether rude, and 
 gives an impression of great anti- 
 quity. The rest of the ch. contains 
 some E. E. portions, but is of little 
 interest. 
 
 The Ch. of the Holy Sepulchre (in 
 Bridge-st., opposite the opening of 
 St. John-st.) is one of 4 English 
 round churches (see Little Maple- 
 steady Essex, Rte. 9). Besides 
 that ch. the others are, the Temple, 
 London, and St. Sepulchre's, North- 
 ampton). Such churches are usually 
 assigned, and with reason, to the 
 Templars ; but there is no evidence 
 whatever that this Cambridge ch. 
 was built by them, or at any time 
 belonged to them. It certainly be- 
 longed from an early period to the 
 convent of Barnwell, and remained 
 attached to that house until the 
 dissolution. The circular portion of 
 the ch. is Norm., the new chancel 
 of Perp. character. Part of the 
 circular aisle became ruinous in 
 1841, and a repair was begun by the 
 parishioners. An entire restoration 
 of the ch, was. however, undertaken 
 by the Cambridge Camden Society; 
 A. Salvin, architect. Much was done, 
 the cost exceeding 4000Z. The new 
 work embraced, — a new stone vault, 
 with conical roof to round ch. ; 
 thorough repair of that portion, and 
 the rebiiilding of the chancel with 
 aisles, the old roofs being preserved, 
 
 lengthened, and repau'ed. This 
 restoration is noticeable as having 
 given occasion for the decision of 
 Sir H. J. Fust (1845) against the 
 legality of a stone altar. The W. 
 doorway of the round ch. was care- 
 fully restored during the alterations. 
 It admits to a circular nave, sepa- 
 rated from the round aisle which 
 encircles it by 8 massive round 
 piers, the caps of which are slightly 
 ornamented. The arches are plain, 
 with a cable moulding, and squared 
 sofifetes. Above the main arcade is 
 a triforium (extending over the 
 aisle) with 2 arches, enclosed by a 
 larger, in each bay ; and above 
 again, in each bay, a small window 
 filled with stained glass. The vault- 
 ing is modern. The windows in the 
 aisle are filled with stained glass, 
 chiefly by Wailes. The whole is 
 grand and solemn, and the eflect on 
 entering, from the dim light and 
 unusual form, is very striking. The 
 chancel was entirely rebuilt after 
 1842. The roofs alone are old, and 
 are very good. The glass of the 
 E. window is by Willement. 
 
 These three churches should be 
 visited, the others are less noticeable. 
 St. Ma?^ the Less (adjoining St. 
 Peter's College) occupies the site of 
 a ch. dedicated to St. Peter, which 
 gave name to the College, and was 
 used as its chajDel. This ch. had 
 become ruinous in 1350, when the 
 present ch. was erected, and de- 
 dicated (1352) in honoui" of the 
 Blessed Virgin. It was used, like 
 the former, as the chapel of Peter- 
 house ; rnitil, in 1632, the existing 
 chapel in the first court of the 
 college was built. St. Mary's is 
 very good Dec, the E. window being 
 especially graceful. Alan of Wal- 
 singham, the sacrist of Ely, who 
 designed tlie famous octagon there, 
 is said (but without any authority) 
 to have been the architect of this 
 ch., which has been restored under 
 the direction of Mr. G, G. Scott, 
 
380 
 
 Botite 1 . — Cambridge : Glinrclies. 
 
 Sect. IV 
 
 St. Boiolpliii (adjoining Corpus) 
 belonged to the Priory of Barnwell 
 from the first years of the 13tli 
 centy. until the dissolution. It is 
 Perp., with a good rood screen. 
 
 St. Edward's Ch. (on Peas Hill, 
 E. of Trumpington-st.), has an E. E. 
 tower, Dec. nave (circ. 1350), with 
 very lofty piers and acute arches. 
 There are some Perp. insertions and 
 additions. Tlie font is modern, and 
 was presented by the Cambridge 
 Camden Society. The whole interior 
 has been restored. Bilney, the re- 
 former (burnt at Norwich in 1531) ; 
 Dr. Barnes, Prior of the Augustinians, 
 also a reformer, and burnt in Smith- 
 field 1540 ; and Latimer, burnt at 
 Oxford, 1555, preached frequently in 
 this ch. 
 
 St. Michael's (in Trinity-st., oppo- 
 site Caius College) is throughout 
 Dec. It was much injured by fire 
 in 1849, and has been carefully re- 
 stored by 3Ir. G. G. Scott. The ch. 
 was founded by Hervey de Stanton, 
 who died 1337. (He was founder of 
 Michael House, afterwards absorbed 
 in Trinity. See that College.) The 
 tower is square and massive ; the 
 piers octagonal, with moulded caps ; 
 the arches equilateral. The chancel 
 is much longer than the nave, and 
 in the S. wall, besides sedilia and 
 piscinia, is an arch which formed 
 part of the monument of Hervey de 
 Stanton. The stalls are said to 
 have been brouglit from Trinity 
 College Chapel. The plain high 
 pitched roof is an exact reproduction 
 of the original. The N. porch and 
 doorway are new, and were designed 
 by Mr. Scott. The stone coffin of 
 Hervey 'de Stanton was found during 
 the restoration, and replaced with an 
 inscription on it. Tlie body of Paxil 
 Fagius, which had been buried here 
 in 1549, was disinterred after Mary's 
 accession, and burnt with that of 
 Bucer in the market-place. 
 
 St, ClemenVs (in Bridge-st.) is 
 
 E.E., l)ut much altered and added 
 to. The tower and spire were built 
 in 1822, the means having been 
 l)equeathed by Cole the antiquary 
 (Walpole's correspondent) and his 
 punning motto, " Deum Cole," ap- 
 pears over the W. door. 
 
 St. Giles's (in Castlc-st., E. side) 
 has some early Norm, portions (chan- 
 cel arch curious), and an E.E. S. 
 door. It was founded after 1092, 
 for Augustinian canons, whose priory 
 was afterwards removed to Barnwell. 
 
 St. Peter's (nearly opposite St. 
 Giles's) has also Norm, portions, 
 and Koman tiles occur on its walls. 
 The font is rude Norm., with very 
 grotesque figures. 
 
 St. Andrew the Great (opposite 
 Christ's College) is modern. An old 
 ch. on this site liad become so 
 ruinous in 1650 that it was then 
 rebuilt ; and this (an indifferent 
 structure) was replaced in 1843 
 by the present building, of Perp. 
 character [A. Poynter, architect). 
 This ch. contains (in the chancel ; — 
 it was removed from the older ch.) a 
 tablet, which is the only memorial 
 of Captain Cook the navigator. His 
 widow, who died at Clapham, in 
 1835, aged 94, was buried here 
 together with two of her sons. The 
 tablet commemorates six children of 
 Captain James Cook and his wife 
 Elizabeth. 
 
 Holy Trinity Ch. (in Sidney-st., 
 W. side) is chiefly Perp., with some 
 very good portions. The chancel is 
 modern. The lower Dec. The great 
 rise of the transepts, with two tiers of 
 windows, is noticeable. This was the 
 ch. served by the Rev. Charles Simeon 
 for nearly GO years, during which 
 he was one of the most intiuential 
 ''powers" in Cambridge. There is 
 a tablet to his memory in the chancel 
 and another to Henry Martyn, tho 
 missionary. 
 
Cambridge. Itoute 1. — Barnwell — Sturhndge. 
 
 38l 
 
 All Saints formerly stood nearly- 
 opposite St. John's College. It be- 
 longed to the convent of St. Rhade- 
 gund, and with the rest of their 
 possessions passed to Jesus College. 
 This old ch., which was indifi'erent 
 Perp., has been removed, and a new 
 church of All Saints has been ( 18(J9) 
 built in Jesus Lane, nearly fronting 
 Jesus College. It was rebuilt at 
 the cost of George Bodley, Esq. In 
 the old ch. was buried Henry 
 Kirke White, d. 1806. There was a 
 tablet to his memory, with a medal- 
 lion by Ch autre y, and verses by 
 William Smyth, the Professor of 
 Modern History. This will be re- 
 placed in the new chapel of St. 
 John's College. The " wanderer " 
 who, according to the verses on the 
 tablet, came "far o'er the Atlantic 
 wave," and finding only a plain 
 stone inscribed with Kirke White's 
 name, " raised the fond memorial " 
 which now exists, was a Mr. Boott, 
 an American. 
 
 The village of Barmcell (really 
 the parish of St. Andrew's the Less), 
 extending S. of Jesus College, along 
 the 1. bank of the Cam, contains 3 
 modern churclies of no great interest. 
 St. Andi'ew's Ch., once attached to 
 Barnwell Priory, is plain E.E., and 
 good. Of the Priory there are very 
 scanty remains, and those not intel- 
 ligible. No satisfactory groimd plan 
 can be made out. A small founda- 
 tion for six Augustinian canons was 
 established before 1092, by Hugolina 
 Picot and her husband, sheriff of 
 Cambridge. This was St. Giles' Ch. 
 near the Castle. In 1122 the canons 
 removed to Barnwell, where a monas- 
 tery had been built for them by Pain 
 Peverell, standard-bearer to Robert 
 of Normandy, and the possessor of 
 Picot's estates. Peverell's Ch. was 
 rejilaced in 1191 by a larger one, 
 which may possibly be that still 
 existing, although it lias been sug- 
 gested, and with much probability, 
 that this was only one of the attendant 
 
 chapels, and that the great Priory 
 Ch. has entirely disappeared. The 
 Priory suffered much in 12G(J, during 
 the war of the Barons; and in 1881, 
 in the " Wat Tyler " insurrection, 
 the Priory was attacked, and the 
 j)rior's trees cut down. At the Dis- 
 solution the annuo 1 value, according 
 to Speed, was 3511. 15s. 4f7. The ex- 
 isting ch. was restored in 1854 by 
 the Cambridge Architectural Society. 
 
 A short distance beyond Barnwell 
 Priory (between it and the rly. stat.) 
 is Sturhridge Chapel (long disused), 
 well worth a visit. It was the cha- 
 pel of a hospital for lepers, founded 
 some time before 1199 ; and is Norm, 
 with some later additions. It con- 
 sists of a small nave and chancel. 
 The chancel windows, witli rich 
 jamb-shafts and zigzag mouldings, 
 the string-courses, exterior and in- 
 terior, with saw-tooth ornaments ; 
 the chancel arch, rich Norm, with 
 much ornament; and the N. and S. 
 portals, all deserve attention. The 
 roofs are plain Perp., aud the square 
 E. window seems of that j)eriod. 
 
 Near this chapel is still held 
 Sturhridge Fair, supposed to have 
 originated in the grant of a fair to 
 the Hospital by King John. It was, 
 during the mediaeval period, one of 
 the largest and most important fairs 
 in the kingdom, and was always 
 opened by the Vice-Chancellor of the 
 University. The fair has long been 
 the property of the Corporation. It 
 begins Sept. 18, and continues till 
 Oct. 10. The modern business is 
 small, except on Sept. 25, known as 
 " Horse Fair Day." For its former 
 s))lendours and "humours" see 
 Cooper's ' Annals of Cambridge.' 
 2Kissim. The fair was still of great 
 importance when De Foe wrote his 
 ' T(nu- through Great Britain ' 
 (1724). " It is," he says, " not only 
 the greatest in the whole nation, but 
 in the world ; nor, if I may believe 
 those who have seen them all, is the 
 fair at Leipsic in Saxony, the mart 
 
382 
 
 Moute l.-^Camhridge : Excursions. Sect. IV. 
 
 at Frankfort on the IMainc, or the 
 fairs at Nuremberg or Angsbnri^-, any 
 way to compare to this fair at Stur- 
 bridge." The booths were placed 
 in rows like streets. It was then 
 the great cloth mart of England. 
 Clothiers from all parts of the country 
 attended it. " As for hops, there is 
 scarce any price fixed for hops in 
 England till they know how they 
 sell at Sturbridge fair." "Wool was 
 sold here in great qnantities, — be- 
 sides every kind of English manu- 
 facture, — Bii-mingham and Sheffield 
 wares, and all others. Heavy goods 
 (including hops) were brought by 
 water to the port of Lynn, and thence 
 conveyed in barges up the rivers 
 Ouse and Cam. They were dis- 
 persed in the same manner. " In a 
 Avord," adds Defoe, " the fair is like 
 a well-fortify'd city, and there is the 
 least disorder and confusion (I be- 
 lieve) that can be seen anywhere, 
 with so great a concourse of people." 
 It was the latest which lingered of 
 those great mediaeval fairs which 
 were anciently held in difterent Eng- 
 lish cities (Winchester was the most 
 famous), and which are now only 
 represented in Europe by the fair of 
 Novogorod. 
 
 Excursions from Cambridge. All 
 the places mentioned in the Cam- 
 bridgesliire routes may be visited in 
 excm-sions from Cambridge. For the 
 remoter, and more interesting, a long 
 sunmier's day is of course desirable. 
 To Ely (Rte, 3) there are many 
 trains daily. The distance is traversed 
 in half an hour. To Newmarket (Rte. 
 2) there are also many trains — the 
 time of passage about 40 min. Bury 
 St. Edmund's (Suffolk, Rte. 3,) is 
 reached from Cambridge in rather 
 less than IJ hr. ; but these longer 
 trains are very uncertain in their 
 time. Audley End and Saffron Walden, 
 (Essex, Rte, 1 1) may easily be visited. 
 • The time from Cambridge to the 
 Audley End Station is about half an 
 hour. 
 
 Wal]:s may be taken to Trumping- 
 ton and Granch ester ; to Madingley ; 
 to Chesterton, Milton, and Horn- 
 in gsea ; to Cherry Hinton ; and to 
 the Vandlebury Camp on the Gog- 
 magog Hills. 
 
 (rt) Trum'pington is 2 m. from Cam- 
 bridge. The road is perfectly level, 
 but there is some wood, and 1. in the 
 distance is the low line of the Gog- 
 magogs. The village of Trumping- 
 ton, large and scattered, is pleasantly 
 tree-shaded, and is not unworthy of 
 its association with Chaucer : — 
 
 " At Trompynton, not far fro Cambrigge 
 There goth a broke, and over that a briggc 
 Upon the wyche broke ther stant a mell ; 
 And this is very soth as 1 you tell." 
 
 Eeve's Tale. 
 
 Unfortunately, the mill in which 
 Jolian and Alayn played their pranks 
 exists no longer; and althougli its 
 ruins remained in 1819, when Carter 
 wrote his history of Cambridgeshire, 
 even the site is not at present known 
 with certainty. The Church (wliich 
 has been well and carefully restored) 
 is fine, and well worth a visit. It is 
 almost throughout early Dec, though 
 the plinths of the tower arch, and the 
 western resj)onds of the nave, seem to 
 be E. Eng. The nave is of 5 bays, 
 with lofty arches on clustered pillars'; 
 the capitals and bases richly moulded. 
 The windows are geometrical; and 
 some remains of stained glass have 
 been gathered into the E. window. 
 The cliancel is large, and a string- 
 course with scroll moulding is carried 
 along the walls, under the windows. 
 A. doorway on the N. side opened to 
 a vestry or chapel now destroyed. 
 Each nave aisle has at its eastern 
 end a chapel oj)ening to it with two 
 arches. There is a fine tower arch. 
 The tower itself has tall buttresses, 
 with lancet lights, foliated; and 
 above, in the belfry stage, windows 
 of two lights, not foliated. On the 
 S. side of the chancel is an external 
 sepulchral arch. Trumpington Cli. 
 is well known to ecclesiologists, not 
 only for its fine Dec. architecture, 
 
CAMBraDGE. 
 
 Houte 1. — Trumpington* 
 
 383 
 
 but for the brass of Sir Eoger de 
 Trmiipington, on its high tomb, under 
 the easternmost of the two arches 
 which open to the N. nave aisle from 
 the chapel beyond it. The tomb 
 itself is surmounted by an ogee Dec. 
 arch, richly moulded — " evidently an 
 insertion, and not part of the original 
 design, though not much later." — 
 J. H. P. The date of the brass itself 
 in 1289 (temp. Ed. I.) marks it as one 
 of the earliest military brasses extant 
 — indeed the only earlier knightly 
 brass in England is that of Sir John 
 d'Aubernon (1277) at Stoke d'Au- 
 bernon,in Surrey. The Trumpington 
 brass (which has often been engraved 
 — in Lysons ; in Waller's ' Brasses ' ; 
 in Boutell's ' Mon. Brasses,' and else- 
 where) is in excellent preservation. 
 The knight is cross-legged, and wears 
 the long surcoat over his chain-mail. 
 In front hangs his sword. His shield, 
 vrith the Trumpington bearings 
 (semee of crosslets; two trumpets), 
 is on his left arm. At his shoulders 
 are square aillettes, having the same 
 coat. His hands are raised in prayer. 
 The dog at his feet bites the end of 
 his sword (so in the D' Aubernon brass, 
 the dog or lion bites the end of 
 the knight's spear). The family 
 of Trumpington was resident here 
 for nearly two centuries. Sir Roger, 
 who died 17th Ed. I., may Lave been 
 one of the knights wlio followed that 
 king (when Prince Edward) to the 
 Holy Land after the defeat of the 
 Barons at Evesham. 
 
 Cole the antiquary (Walpole's cor- 
 respondent) says that two lines were 
 commonly known at Trumpington, 
 and were attributed to Chaucer — 
 
 " Trompington, Trompington, God be thee 
 with, 
 Thy steeple looks like a knife in a sheath," 
 
 a comparison of which the justice is 
 by no means evident. 
 
 Matthew Paris (• Hist. Major,' p. 
 985) tells a story of a youtli who 
 (a.d. 1259), passing through Trump- 
 ington, threw a stone at a dog, and 
 
 killed an old woman's hen. She re- 
 fused all compensation, and com- 
 plained to William de Bussey, Sene- 
 schal of William de Valence, uterine 
 brother of Hen. III. He threw the 
 youth into prison, where he died. 
 The priest of Trumpington, having 
 found tlie body thrown on a dung- 
 hill, gave it Christian burial. William 
 de Bussey had it disinterred, and 
 hung on a gibbet. Such was justice 
 in the evil days of Hen. III. 
 
 Trumpington Hall, adjoining the 
 ch., is the residence of H. W. Pem- 
 berton, Esq. 
 
 From Trumpington the return to 
 Cambridge may be made by Gran- 
 diester — crossing the Cam a little 
 below the ch. Granchester, whose 
 name sufficiently indicates its Roman 
 origin, lies not far from the " Via 
 Devana " — the road from Cambridge 
 to Chester, and was connected with 
 tliat road by a short " vicinal way." 
 Whether Granchester or the site of 
 Cambridge Castle was the place of 
 the chief Roman station here has 
 been much disputed, and still re- 
 mains uncertain, although the pro- 
 babilities are much in favour of Cam- 
 bridge. The fort at Granchester is 
 about 200 yds. from the river ; and 
 so -raised above it as to command the 
 ford. It can never have been very 
 strong ; and at present only a small 
 part of the enclosure is to be traced 
 — the whole of two sides, and part of 
 each of the others being obliterated 
 by roads, and by the buildings of 
 the village. Roman coins have been 
 found here. Granchester Church has 
 a Perp. nave, and a fine Dec. chancel, 
 the east window of which, with its 
 flowing tracery, deserves notice. 
 
 (&) The St. Neot's road, turning 
 off at rt. angles from the road which 
 borders tlie College grounds, on the 
 1. bank of the Ciim, leads to a lane 
 which about oj m. from Cambridge 
 turns rt. to Madingley. The whole 
 of this country extending from Cam- 
 
384 
 
 Boutei. — Camhridge : Excursions. Sect. I V. 
 
 bridge toward Coton and Madingley 
 was imeuelosed until within the last 
 half-century; and before the enclo- 
 sures were made, it was possible to 
 ride, without encountering liedges or 
 fences, for a distance of 20 or 30 
 miles from Cambridge. Much of this 
 country is now rich corn land ; and 
 the view from the rising ground 
 between Cambridge and Madingley, 
 before the liarvest has been gathered 
 in, is of great and striking beauty. 
 Wide levels of "golden grain," 
 divided here and there by lines and 
 jiatches of dark trees, extend far 
 toward the N. and E. ; and on clear 
 evenings the great towers of Ely are 
 visible on the far horizon. The Ch. 
 of Coton, 1. of the road, has some 
 Norm, portions. Madingley Hall 
 (Lady King) was originally built by 
 Justice Hinde in the reign of Hen. 
 VIII. About 1600, Sir Francis Hinde 
 pulled down the ch. of Histon St. 
 Etheldreda, and used the materials 
 for rebuilding part of Madingley. 
 The house is picturesque. From 
 the Hindes it passed to the Cottons ; 
 and it contains some fine armorial 
 glass from the windows of Land- 
 wade Hall, a former residence of that 
 family. There are a few good pic- 
 tures ; and m the j^ark, which is well 
 wooded, some large old cedars. Mad- 
 ingley was the residence of the Prince 
 of Wales while keeping his terms at 
 Cambridge. The parish ch. stands 
 within the park, and is chiefly Perp. 
 
 (c) Chesterton is on the 1. bank of 
 the Cam, rather more tlian 1 m. 
 N. of Cambridge. The Ch. is Dec. 
 (tower and spire, and nave arcade ; 
 the tower arch opening to the nave 
 is fine). The chancel is Perp. witli 
 rich sedilia. There are some good 
 old scats. The rectory was given by 
 Edw. I. to the Abbey of St. Andrew 
 at VerccUi ; and on the resumption 
 of alien grants, to King's Hall by 
 Hen. VI. Thus it became the pro- 
 perty of Trinity College. At King's 
 Hedges, in this parish, is a large ob- 
 
 long camp, on tlie S. side of a Eoman 
 road which crosses Chesterton Field. 
 The camp is possibly Roman, or, as 
 has been suggested, a work of the 
 Normans durinsj^ the siege of Ely. 
 On the other side is a semicircular 
 entrenchment called Arbmy. The 
 road itself (Eoman) ran to Ely by 
 Landbeach, thence to Littleport and 
 Downham Market — whence it pro- 
 ceeded to Castle Rising and Bran- 
 caster. The line of road is carried 
 along high land, and avoids the fens 
 wherever possible. 
 
 From Chesterton the Ely road may 
 be gained, and the walk may be con- 
 tinued to Milton (3h m. from Cam- 
 bridge). Here the Ch. has a Norm, 
 chancel arch, an early Dec. nave, and 
 Dec. chancel. It contains a good late 
 h)-ass on an altar-tomb for AVilliani 
 Coke, Justice of the C. Pleas, 1553, 
 and his wife. There is also a monu- 
 ment by Flaxnian for Mrs. Knight 
 (d. 1800) ; and another by Chantrey 
 for members of her family. — Cole the 
 antiquary lived and died (1782) at 
 Milton. His collections relating to 
 the county, town, and university of 
 Cambridge were beqiieathed to tlie 
 British Museum, and are among the 
 " Additional MSS." 
 
 Across the Cam, opposite Milton, 
 is Horningsea, where was an ancient 
 " monasterium " possessed by a body 
 of secular clergy, and destroyed by 
 the Danes. It afterwards belonged 
 to Ely. The Ch. has some late Norm. 
 work (lower stages of the tower, S. 
 arcade of nave). The chancel is 
 E. Eng., as is the font. The N. 
 arcade of the nave, the upper stage 
 of the tower, and the aisles and porch, 
 are late Dec. 
 
 The return to Cambridge may be 
 made by Fen Ditton, where is a ch. 
 with some E. Eng. work of interest. 
 Bigging Ahheij, between Horningsea 
 and Fen Ditton, is said to have been 
 a seat of the Bishops of Ely. The 
 name Ditton may be, as has been 
 suggested, " Ditch-town," with a re- 
 ference to the Fleam or Balsham 
 
CaMbHidge. Route 2. — Camh-idge to Newmarhet. 
 
 385 
 
 Dyke (see Kte. 2) wliich terminated 
 here, at the river. 
 
 (d) For Cherry Hinion, see Rte. 
 2 ; and for 
 
 (e) the Vandlehury Camp, the 
 present route, ante. 
 
 A long but interesting walk, tracing 
 the boundary of the Isle of Ely, may 
 be thus taken. From Cambridge 
 to Cottenliam (6 m.). Thence to 
 Haddenham (5 m.), crossing the river 
 by tlie ferry. From Haddenham 
 though Wilburton to Ely (5 m.) along 
 tlie edge of the hi2:h ground, here 
 rising like a low clifi" above the fen. 
 The whole distance will be about 16 
 m. Eeturn by rail to Cambridge. 
 
 A good view is obtained from a 
 hill between Haslingfield and Bar- 
 rington. Drive from Cambridge 
 through Haslingfield on the Barring- 
 ton road. Leave the road just before 
 gaining the top of the hill, and turn 
 into a held on the 1., where is an old 
 chalk-pit. The view is unusually 
 extensive and pleasing for Cam- 
 bridgeshire. The hill itself is a 
 " habitat " well known to botanists. 
 
 EOUTE 2. 
 
 CAMBRIDGE TO NEWMARKET. 
 {Great Eastern Bailway.) 
 
 (From Cambridge a branch line 
 runs by Newmarket and Bury St. 
 [Esuex, (|'c.] 
 
 Edmund's to Haughley Junction, 
 where it meets the lines which pro- 
 ceed to Norwich (N.) and to Ipswich 
 (S.E.). The distance from Cam- 
 bridge to Newmarket by this line is 
 15 m. Tiiere are 3 stations between 
 the two places; but the trains do 
 not stop unless notice is given to the 
 guard beforehand. The old turn- 
 pike road (12 m.) runs some distance 
 N. of the railway. The sole objects 
 of interest between Cambridge and 
 Newmarket are the churches, some 
 of which deserve especial notice.) 
 
 Leaving Cambridge, the rail bends 
 S., and passes 1. the Ch. of Tevers- 
 ham — of no very great interest ; and 
 rt. that of Cherry Hinton, ded. to 
 St. Andrew, " a beautiful E. Eng. 
 structure (chancel and nave) with 
 late insertions and alterations. The 
 richest portions of detail are found 
 in the chancel, which has internally 
 an exquisite arcade of cinquefuiled 
 arches, jjierced at intervals, with un- 
 usually large couplets, N. and S. . . . 
 The nave has on either side a fine 
 series of arches richly moulded and 
 supported. ... In theN. aisle are some 
 highly interesting seats (wooden) of 
 earlier date than commonly found, 
 richly and peculiarlj' ornamented, 
 and probably the original ones. . . . 
 The tower is very late Perp." — A rch. 
 Topog. of Cambridgeshire. (Views 
 and details of this ch., with a full 
 account of it, have been published by 
 the Cambridge Camden Soc). The 
 ch. was possibly buQt by the Hintous, 
 who until 1286 possessed the ad vow- 
 son. In that year John de Hinton 
 sold it to Hugh of Balsham. Among 
 the vicars was Ealph de Walpole, Bp. 
 of Ely ; Braybrooke, Bp. of London 
 (d. 1409); and Isaac Barrow, after- 
 wards Bp. of Sodor and Man, and of 
 St. Asaph, and uncle of the more 
 celebrated Barrow, Master of Trinity. 
 
 The parish was formerly famous 
 for its cherries. In Butt's 'Diets 
 Dry Dinner,' 1599, we are told that 
 " Cantabrigian Ackademicks may 
 very fitly interpret Cerisunte, Cherry 
 
386 
 
 JRoute 2.'^FuIbourne — BottisJiam. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 Hinton; their neighbour cherry town; 
 where many Athenian Squires are 
 so overcome by chcrryes . . . that 
 they are constrained to implore the 
 ayde of Mithridate and his cosin 
 Triacle, in regaining the Castle of 
 Health." 
 
 4 J m. Fulbourne Stat. Here is a 
 Ch. well wortii a visit, of various 
 dates, chiefly Dec. and E. Eng. "In 
 the chancel are singular E. Eng, 
 sedilia, a septfoiled recess with irre- 
 gular cusps terminating in fleur-de- 
 lys. . . . The roofs of chancel and 
 nave are coved, and have been finely 
 painted." The poppy heads of the 
 seats, and the carved pulpit should 
 be noticed. Under a monumental 
 arch in the chancel lies the effigy 
 (an emaciated figure) of John Care- 
 way, rector of the oh. in 1443. In 
 the chancel is also the very fine brass 
 of Wm. de Fulburne, Canon of St. 
 Paul's, London, and Baron of the 
 Exchequer, 1391. He wears a cope. 
 In the S. transept is a tomb with 
 efiigies belonging to the Wood family ; 
 date 1633. This ch. of Fulbourne, 
 All Saints, belonged to Sawtrey 
 Abbey, in Huntingdonshire, until the 
 Dissolution. In the same ch.-yard 
 stood the parish ch. of Fulbourne St. 
 Vigor's, pulled down as ruinous in 
 1776. 
 
 (The Fleam or Bahliam Dijlce, one 
 of the 4 entrenchments which de- 
 fended the E. Anglian country from 
 the dwellers of the interior (see yost, 
 Newmarket, the Devil's Dyke), is 
 most perfect at Shardelow's Well, a 
 little S. of Fulbourne. This Dyke 
 began at Fen Ditton, close to the 
 Cam. and ran by Great Wilbraham 
 and Fulbourne to the neighbourhood 
 of Brtlsham. It is not straight, but 
 is much curved in parts, so as to 
 meet the requirements of the ground.) 
 
 [At Great Wilbraham, 3 m. N.E. 
 
 of Fulbourne, and about the same 
 distance S. of Bottisham, on the 1 urn- 
 pike-road from Cambridge to New- 
 
 market, is a fine E. Eng. Ch. worth 
 notice. The chancel has side arcades 
 and banded shafts. The font, Trans. 
 Norm., is very good. "The inner 
 doorway of the S. porch is very fine 
 and rich E. Eng., with triple jamb- 
 shafts and a double row of dog- 
 tooth." The manor and ch. here 
 belonged to the Knights Templars, 
 who seem to have had a preceptory 
 on the site of the manor-house, stQl 
 called "the Temple." The Ch. of 
 Little Wilbraham is late Dec. and 
 Perp., but of no great importance.] 
 
 [At Bottisliam, on the turnpike- 
 road, 6 m. from Cambridge, is a 
 remarkable '• flint and stone " Ch., 
 the finest specimen of pure Dec. in 
 the county. The chancel walls are 
 early Dec. with Peri?, windows in- 
 serted. Piscina and sedilia original 
 Dec, stone rood-screen Perp., and 
 the rest of the ch., except the W. 
 porch, very fine Earl}^ Dec. through- 
 out. The nave is of 5 bays, with 
 lofty and richly moulded arches ; the 
 clerestory lighted by a single lancet. 
 An arcade is carried the whole 
 length of the S. aisle under tlie 
 windows, inside and out, and is 
 richly moulded. 
 
 " The E. end of the aisles have 
 Dec. parcloses of richly carved oak. 
 In the N. one is a high tomb (Perp.) 
 of dark marble ; the S. one has a 
 large piscina and sedilia : both are 
 encumbered by very ugly modern 
 monuments, one representing a 
 couple of stark infants, behind 
 cherub - drawn bed - curtains ; the 
 other of a lady and gentleman in 
 nocturnal attire. The S. aisle is 
 arcaded both within and without 
 with low arches, finely moulded. 
 Under each of these rests a stone 
 coffin, probably of a founder or 
 nameless benefactor. Date of ch. is 
 l^rubably about 1320. The cost of 
 its erection at the present day would 
 be at least 10,000^."— PaZf y's Guide. 
 
 In the nave is a Lombardic in- 
 
Cambridge. Boute 2. — Swaffliam — Kirtlmg. 
 
 38*7 
 
 sci'iption for Elias de Bekiugham, 
 Justiciar of England temp. Edw. I., 
 whose integrity and uprightness, ac- 
 cording to the contemporary clironi- 
 clers, strongly contrasted with the 
 corruption of his brother judges. 
 There is also a monument with full- 
 length figures for Sir Koger Jenyns 
 (d. ITiO) ; and a monument by Bacon 
 for his only son, Soame Jenyns, 
 author of a once celebrated ' View of 
 the Internal Evidence of the Cliris- 
 tian Eeligion.' Sir Koger and his 
 son lived in a house which occupied 
 the site of the present Bottisham 
 Hall. 
 
 li m. N.W. of Bottisham Ch. are 
 some remains of Anglesea Ahhey fso 
 called) a small priory of Augustiniau 
 canons, founded by Hen. I. An 
 E. Eng. vaulted room is part of the 
 original building, but the priory, 
 temp. Elizabeth, was converted into 
 a dwelling-house. The manor and 
 the great tithes of Bottisham be- 
 longed to this priory. 
 
 *" At Swaffliam BuTbeck, \\ m. N. of 
 Bottisham, is a Dec. and Perp. ch. 
 of some interest ; and 1\ m. further 
 N., at Swaffliam Prior, are remains 
 of two very fine churches in one 
 churchyard. The towers of both are 
 the portions to be noticed. That of 
 St. Marys is Perp., square below and 
 octagonal above; each face of the 
 octagon has a belfry window. " The 
 parapet of this very beautiful com- 
 position is ornamented with pierc- 
 ings in the free- stone, which, accord- 
 ing to the Norfolk and Suffolk 
 custom, are filled with black flint." 
 The rest of this ch. has been rebuilt 
 in very bad taste. St. Cyriac's is 
 now a ruin, but its western tower, 
 which is Trans. Norm., is nearly 
 perfect, and a very good example. 
 A small and beautiful Galilee porch, 
 of Perp. character, remains on its W. 
 side. The manor of Swafifham Prior 
 belonged to the convent of Ely. 
 There is a fine Perp. Cli, at Bur- 
 
 well, 2 m. N.E. of Swaffham. The 
 woodwork and roof- bosses deserve 
 notice. In the chancel are some 
 very ricli Perp. niches, and the much 
 mutilated brass of John Lawrence, 
 the last abbot of Kamsey, 1542. 
 
 A little W. of the ch. are the moat 
 and earthworks of Burwell Castle, 
 before which GeofFry de Mandeville, 
 Earl of Essex, lost his life by an 
 arrow in 1144. He was one of Ma- 
 tilda's adherents, and was besieging 
 Burwell Castle, which, accoiding to 
 Gervase of Canterbury, King Stephen 
 had built.] 
 
 Passing the stat, at 
 8 m. Six Mile Bottom, we reach 
 11 m. DiMincjliam Stat. The 
 porch and roofs of the ch. here are 
 good Perp. and deserve notice. 
 
 [Stetcliworth Ch., 1 m. N.W., is of 
 no great interest. In that of Wood 
 Ditton, chiefly Dec, is a good brass 
 for Henry Englissh (1393) and wife. 
 Tlie brasses of Sir John de Crekc 
 (1325) and his wife remain in West- 
 ley Waterless Ch., chiefly Dec, 2 m. 
 S.E. of Dullingham. The tower of 
 this ch. is round, and apparently 
 of Norm. date. Sir John de Creke's 
 brass is figured in Waller's ' Brasses.' 
 The Crekes were lords of Westley 
 from an early period until the fii'st 
 half of the 14th centy. 
 
 At Borough Green, 2 m. beyond 
 Westley, is a Dec. Ch., in the chan- 
 cel of which are 3 fine Dec. high 
 tombs with recumbent effigies richly 
 canopied. They represent members 
 of the De Burgh family, which long 
 possessed the manor (Sir Thomas 
 and Sir John de Burgh, Sir Thomas 
 Ingoldesthorpe, who married the 
 heiress of De Burgh, and Sir Ed- 
 mund Ingoldesthorpe, whose efligy is 
 on the floor). 
 
 The Ch. of Kirtlinrj, 4 m. due E. 
 of Dullingham, has some good Norm, 
 and E. Eng. portions. The E. win- 
 dow, and Norm, doorway of S. porch, 
 
 s2 
 
388 
 
 Houte 2. — NewmarTcei. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 should be noticed. Of Kirtling Hall, 
 the ancient residence of the Norths, 
 built temp. Hen. VII., nothing re- 
 mains but a fine gateway tower.] 
 
 From Dullingham the line turns 
 northward, and, passing 1. the famous 
 race-course, and reaches 
 
 15 m. Neivmarhet. 
 (Tlie Newmarhet race-course ex- 
 tends W. of the town over New- 
 market Heath, for about 4 m., and 
 is divided into different distances 
 suited to the ages and strength of the 
 horses. This very much facilitates 
 match - making ; the shortest course 
 being 2 furlongs 47 yds., the longest 
 the " 4-ra. course " or " Beacon" — but 
 this is seldom used, being too severe 
 for the horses. The judges' box is 
 on wheels, so as to be moved from 
 one winning-post to another, accord- 
 ing to the length of the race. Better 
 turf is nowhere found, or ground 
 more elastic — never hard, though 
 sometimes deep. At times, chietly 
 in the morning, soon after day- 
 break, more than 200 horses may 
 be seen exercising at once on these 
 Downs in their gay hoods and body 
 clothes. 
 
 Across Newmarket Heath, and 
 crossing the Four-Mile Course, in a 
 direction from N.W. to S.E., extends 
 the great earthwork called the 
 Devil's Ditch. It is traceable from 
 the fens at Keach or Keche, border- 
 ing on the Cam, to the woodlands at 
 Camois Hall near Wood Ditton, and 
 is nearly straight throughout. The 
 most perfect parts are nearest Beach, 
 and in the neighbourhood of Stetcli- 
 worth Park. Some gaps in it per- 
 mitted ancient roads (the Ickneild 
 "Way and others) to pass ; and through 
 one of these the 4 -mile course is 
 carried. The ditch is 20 ft. wide, 
 the bank 18 ft. above the level of the 
 country, 30 ft. above the l)(»ttom of 
 the ditch. At the top it is 12 ft. wide. 
 The Devil's Ditch is the most easterly 
 and the largest of 4 important dykes 
 or entrenchments which marked, at 
 
 different periods, the western limit of 
 races and tribes inhabiting the East 
 Anglian country. The elevated ram- 
 part is on the W. side of 3 of these 
 dykes, proving that they were made 
 by the inhabitants of what is now 
 Norfolk and Suffolk as a defence 
 against people of the interior. Their 
 age is uncertain, and although the 
 Devils Dyke formed the boundary 
 between E. Anglia and Mercia, it 
 may well be of far earlier date. (It 
 is sometimes called " St. Edmund's 
 Dyke," since it marked the limit of 
 St. Edmund's halidome from the 
 time of Cnut.) Each dyke, extend- 
 ing from the fenland to the wooded 
 country, and quite crossing the nar- 
 row open district between, nmst have 
 been a formidable obstacle to in- 
 vaders from the W. 
 
 At Stetchworth is a large square 
 camp, clot'C to the W. side of the 
 Devil's Dyke. 
 
 The Great Bustard (Otis tarda) 
 was formerly (1656-1667) "chased 
 and taken by greyhounds " on New- 
 market Heath. 
 
 (Inns at Newmarket : — Eutland 
 Arms ; White Hart : both in the 
 main street ; and 4 others.) 
 
 This town, of 2956 inhab., the 
 cradle of horse-racing in England, is 
 situated partly in Suffolk, partly in 
 Cambridgeshire, the boundary line 
 running along the High-street. (An 
 angle of Suffolk is curiously pro- 
 jected into Cambridgeshire, N.W. of 
 Newmarket.) It has been called the 
 " Metropolis of the Turf," and is the 
 only place in Britain where more 
 than 2 race-meetings take place in 
 the year. There are 7 meetings : — 
 1. The " Craven," named after a 
 late Earl of that name, commences 
 on Easter Monday ; 2. " 1st Spring," 
 on the Monday fortnight following ; 
 
 3. '■ 2nd Spring," a fortnight later ; 
 
 4. " The July," early in that month ; 
 
 5. " 1st October ; " 6. " 2nd Octo- 
 ber ; " 7. " 3rd October," or " Hough- 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Bouie 2. — Newmarlcet. 
 
 389 
 
 ton " meeting. Of these the first and 
 last are the most celebrated. 
 
 In High-street on the 1. are the 
 New Booms of the Jockey Club, in 
 front of which a sort of sporting 
 " high change " is held during race- 
 time. 
 
 Many patrons of the turf have 
 houses here ; the Duke of Eutland 
 occupies a part of the mansion once 
 the Royal Palace, in High-street, in 
 which some curious tapestry still 
 adorns the dining-room. It was built 
 by Charles II., on the site of the 
 lodge built by his grandfather, King 
 James I., and sold pursuant to 57 
 George lU. cap. 97. The greater 
 part of the palace has, however, been 
 pulled down, and on the site has 
 risen an " Independent " chapel. The 
 house occupied by Nell Gwynn, and 
 one built by " Old Q." — the famous 
 Duke of Queensberry — are still 
 pointed out. 
 
 Charles I., on his visits to New- 
 market, occupied the " lodge " or 
 palace which had been built by 
 James I. He was brought to the 
 same house as a prisoner in 1647, 
 having been removed hither from 
 the house of Lady Cutts at Childer- 
 ley. Sanderson says that flowers 
 were strewed before him as he 
 passed, and he was brought through 
 Trumpington, so as to avoid Cam- 
 bridge, where the townspeople were 
 disposed to show him some respect. 
 Charles remained for 10 days at 
 Newmarket, the head-quarters of the 
 army being in the neighbouiiug vil- 
 lage of Kennet. 
 
 There are numerous stables be- 
 longing to trainers in the town. On 
 an average there are 400 horses in 
 Newmarket the greater part of the 
 year. 
 
 The first races were held at New- 
 market in the reign of Charles I. ; 
 " Bay Tarrall " being a celebrated 
 horse that "won the cup" in that 
 reign. Charles II. became a decided 
 patron of racing, and entered horses 
 in his own name : — 
 
 " In days of ease, when now the weary sword 
 Was sheathed, and luxury with Charles 
 
 restored. 
 In every taste of foreign courts improved, 
 All, by the king's example, lived and loved. 
 Then peers grew proud in horsemanship 
 
 t' excell — 
 Newmarket's glory rose, as Britain's fell." 
 Pope, Imit. of Hor. 
 
 In 1671 (Oct. 21) Evelyn " lodged 
 at Newmarket," " where I found the 
 jolly blades racing, dancing, feasting 
 and revelling, more resembling a 
 luxurious and abandoned rout than 
 a Christian court. The Duke of 
 Buckingham was now in mighty 
 ftivour, and had with him that im- 
 pudent woman the Countess of 
 Shrewsbury, with his band of fid- 
 dlers." (The " fiddlers of Thetford " 
 were in favour with the court at 
 Newmarket— not for their edifying 
 songs or behaviour.) 
 
 A fire which destroyed the town 
 in 1683 during the presence of 
 Charles and his brother drove them 
 up to London some days sooner 
 than was intended, and thus de- 
 feated the aims of the conspirators of 
 the Eye House plot, who had planned 
 to waylay and assassinate them. 
 Lord Godolphin, in the reign of 
 Queen Anne, gave a fresh reputation 
 to Newmarket ; and Pope, under the 
 character of Patritio, has satirised 
 hiji" Newmarket fame and judgment 
 at a bet." But the best satire on 
 Newmarket is Dr. Johnson s lively 
 paper in ' Tlie Idler,' in which he 
 laughs with exquisite humour at the 
 wonderful feat performed at New- 
 market by a lady in 1758, who rode 
 1000 miles in 1000 hours. The 
 great Lord Chesterfield, in his will, 
 has called Newmarket " that in- 
 famous seminary of iniquity and ill 
 manners." "A Newmarket bite" 
 was a familiar English proverb of the 
 last ceaty. 
 
 St. Mary's, chiefly Perp., the hand- 
 somest of the 2 churches, is in Suf- 
 folk. All Saints' (modern) was a 
 chapel attached to the Palace pre- 
 
390 
 
 Boiite 3. — Cambridge to Ely. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 cinct. In it is the tomb of Tregon- 
 well Frampton (d. 1728), keeper of 
 the running horses to William III., 
 Anne, Georges I. and II., and "the 
 Father of the Turf." 
 
 The turnpike-road to Bury and 
 Norwich is a continuation of the 
 Higli-street of Newmarket to the rt. 
 1. on the outskiits of the town is 
 the Fairstead, or exercising ground. 
 There is a good deal of open heath 
 in this direction, well suited for 
 exercising horses. The rising ground 
 to the rt. is the well-known Warren 
 
 mil. 
 
 The most interesting Churches 
 near Newmarket are Burwell and 
 Swaffham Prior (N.W., see ante) ; 
 Westley Waterless and Borough 
 Green (due S., see ante); Kirtling 
 (S.E., ante) ; and Cheveley (S.E., see 
 2)ost). 
 
 [3 m S.E. of the town is Chevelty 
 Parh (Lord George Manners) ; for- 
 merly the seat of Harry Jermyu, 
 Earl of Dover, and of the Dukes of 
 Eutland. The house (built 1632) 
 stands in a park surrounded by a 
 lofty brick wall 3 m. long. 
 
 Cheveley Ch. (dedicated to St. 
 Mary and the Holy Host) is large 
 and fine, ranging from E. Eng. to 
 Perp. The nave and N. porch are 
 Perp. ; the S. transept Dec. ; the N., 
 E. Eng. with Dec. insertions; the 
 chancel E. Eng., with some altera- 
 tions in the Dec. period. The tower 
 has an external bartizan or " Avatch- 
 ing turret," on the top of which is a 
 low i^arapet ; and it has, no doubt, 
 been used as a fire beacon. In the Ch. 
 is a coffer of cypress wood of Dec. 
 character.] 
 
 [The Churches of Exning, Snail- 
 well, and Chippenham, N. of New- 
 market, are of some httle interest, 
 but will hardly attract the tourist. 
 Exning is E. Eng. (chancel) and 
 Dec. ; the tower Dec. of 3 stages. 
 On the N. side of the chancel is a 
 
 large Perp. altar-tomb of Purbeck, 
 the brasses gone. Snaihcell is chiefly 
 Dec. The tower is round and Norm. 
 (one of the two Cambridgeshire round 
 towers). Chippenliam is late Dec. 
 and Perp., with a late Dec. rood- 
 screen. Chippenham Hall was the 
 seat of the liussells, allied to the 
 Protector (Sir John Eussell married 
 Cromwell's youngest daughter, and 
 Henry Cromwell, son of the Pro- 
 tector, married a daughter of Sir 
 Francis Kussell). Charles I., when 
 at Newmarket, visited Chippenham, 
 and played at bowls there. Admiral 
 Eussell, created Earl of Orford after 
 his victory of La Hogue, built a 
 house at Chippenham, in which in 
 1717 he entertained George I. This 
 house was pulled down before 1790-3 
 (For the line of rly. from New- 
 market to Bury St. Edmund's, see 
 Suffolk, Ete. 6.) 
 
 i 
 
 EOUTE 3. 
 
 CAMBRIDGE TO ELY. (THE ISLE OF 
 ELY.) 
 
 {Gt. Eastern and Norfolk Elys. 14 m.) 
 
 The rly. runs between the old 
 turnpike-road and the river Cam, 
 which is navigable from Cambridu:e 
 to the sea by means of locks. The 
 Cam changes its name to " Ouse " at 
 about 3 m. of Ely, where it joins the 
 old bed of the " West river " Ouse. 
 
Cambridge. Boute 3. — WaterheacJi — Denny Abbey. 
 
 391 
 
 But this " West river " is now car- 
 ried by tlie Bedford rivers direct 
 from Earith to Denver, and, except 
 in cases of very great floods, not a 
 drop of Ouse water enters the Cam 
 till it joins the Little Ouse shortly 
 before reaching Denver, The Cam 
 thus extends beyond Ely and Prick- 
 willow. 
 
 A line of Koman road, mnch of 
 which has sunk beneatli the fen, ran 
 from Cambridge toward Ely, falling 
 into the present high-road near the 
 sixth milestone. The distance from 
 Cambridge to Ely by road, river, 
 and rail, is nearly the same. 
 
 For the whole distance the line 
 passes through the fen country, for 
 a general description of which see 
 Introduction, ' Cambridgeshire.' " It 
 has all a 'clammy look, clayey and 
 boggy; the produce of it, whether 
 bushes and trees, or grass and crops, 
 gives you the notion of something 
 lazy, dropsical, gross." — Carlyle. 
 Trees, however, except "Nature's 
 signals of distress " — stunted wil- 
 lows — are rare, and the scene is 
 one wide level, intersected by deep 
 drains and " droves." (In wet or win- 
 try weather these levels are dreary 
 in the extreme. They should be 
 seen on a bright day in harvest time, 
 when, as far as the eye can reach, 
 the country is golden with corn. 
 The views at that season from the 
 tower of Ely, or from any of the 
 neighbouring church towers, are well 
 worth seeking.) A few church towers 
 rise on either side of the rly., and 
 some of the churches are interesting. 
 The only one of much importance, 
 however, is that of Landbeach, about 
 2 m. W. of the Waterbeach Stat. 
 
 The churches of Chesterton, Milton, 
 Fen Ditton, and Horningsea, seen rt. 
 of the rail (the two latter across the 
 river) have been already noticed (Rte. 
 1, Excur. from Cambridge). At 
 
 5| m. is Waterbeach Stat. (The 
 termination "beach," as in Land- 
 
 beach and Waterbeach, seems to 
 mean "bank." Waterbeach is much 
 affected by overflowings — Landbeach, 
 on higher ground, is less so. Ex- 
 haustive histories of Landbeach, 
 Waterbeach, and Horningsea, by the 
 Eev. W, Keatinge Clay, Vicar of 
 Waterbeacli, have been published by 
 the Cambridge Antiquarian Society.) 
 Here is an E. Eng, ch., the chancel 
 of which has been indifferently re- 
 built. 
 
 About 1 m, N.W., and near the old 
 turnpike-road, are the remains of 
 Denny Abbey, a house of nuns of St. 
 Clare, founded in 1342. The remains, 
 which are rather extensive, but very 
 fragmentary, consisting chiefly of 
 early Norm, and Dec. work, have 
 been converted into a large farm- 
 house. "A massive and perfect 
 Norm, archway now forms the en- 
 trance to a modern staircase, and 
 what was probably the refectory is 
 now a large barn, with a good deal 
 of Dec. work about it. Several carved 
 fragments are built into the present 
 house ; and the ground-plan, which 
 is given in Lysons, may still be 
 made out rather imperfectly." — Arch. 
 Topog. of Camhridgeshire. Denny 
 has had various proprietors and oc- 
 cupants. A small establishment of 
 Benedictine monks from Ely was 
 founded in the middle of the 12th 
 centy. at Elmeney, on the borders of 
 Waterbeach. Tliis was a bad situa- 
 tion, and Aubrey Picot soon gave 
 them land at Denny, to which they 
 removed. Tliey were afterwards sup- 
 planted by tlie Knights Templars, 
 who obtained the Benedictine pro- 
 perty, and settled a preceptory here. 
 After the Dissolution of the Templars' 
 order, Denny became the property 
 of ]Mary de St. Paul, 2nd wife of 
 Aylmer de Valence, Earl of Pem- 
 broke, tho foundress of Pembroke 
 College in Cambridge. She esta- 
 blished the nuns of St. Clare here, 
 joining to them a small house of the 
 same order founded at Waterbeacli 
 by Dionysia de Anesty in 129-4. The 
 
392 Route 3. — LandbeacJi — GoUenJiam — Stretham. Sect. IV. 
 
 foundress, Mary de St. Paul, was 
 buried here, in a tomb whicli had 
 been prepared durinj^ lier lifetime. 
 She ordered that the fellows of Pem- 
 broke should act as confessors to the 
 nuns of Denny. The Abbey has little 
 history. Erasmus wrote from Queen's 
 College a consolatory letter to the 
 nuns, then under some difficulties; 
 and the house stems to have been in 
 no bad condition at the Dissolution, 
 when the annual value was, accord- 
 ing to Speed, 2181. Os. Ud. 
 
 The remains of the Al)bey, as has 
 been already said, are of two periods. 
 The 4 arches of the tower, one arch 
 of the nave, the W. door of the nave, 
 and some portions of the transepts, 
 belong to the Norm. ch. built by the 
 Benedictines from Elmeney. The 
 choir (which has quite disai:)peared) 
 was built by Mary do St. Paul. What 
 is now the barn was the ancient re- 
 fectory — also the work of Mary de 
 St. Paul. 
 
 [Ij m. due W. of Waterbeach, and 
 across the turnjiike-road, is Land- 
 heach, where the Ch. will well rejjay 
 a visit. It is chiefly Perp., but has a 
 late, thougli poor, Dec. chancel. The 
 tower is late Dec. Tiie woodwork 
 tliroughout should be noticed. Much 
 of it was brouglit from Jesus College 
 Chapel, whence it was removed in 
 1787 (the authorities of Jesus Coll. 
 had sold it) by Mr. Masters, then 
 Rector of Landl>each. A door from 
 this ch. was sent to Ely Catiiedi-al in 
 1821 (see Ely, post). Several well- 
 carved standards of stalls bear the 
 mitre, cock, and globe, the badge of 
 Bishop Alcock, the founder of Jesus. 
 Tiie pulpit also is very fine. The E. 
 window retains much original stained 
 glass, and over the altar is an ancient 
 painting on panel. " The north aisle 
 bus a very fine Dec. canopied monu- 
 ment inserted in the wall, with 
 crockets and double feathered cusps," 
 The rectory-house retains many por- 
 tions of l4th-centy. work. In the 
 ch. is a gravestone for William Rawley, j 
 
 chaplain to Lord Chancellor Bacon. 
 He wrote Bacon's life, and published 
 his works. 
 
 3 m. N.W. is Cottenham,th.e'birth.- 
 place, 1636, of Archbp. Tenison (his 
 father was curate here), and the 
 ancient seat of the Pe])ys family, 
 giving his title to the Lord Chan- 
 cellor of that name. Pepys mentions 
 with pride that there were 26 house- 
 keepers of his name living at Cotten- 
 ham in the time of Queen Elizabeth. 
 It is particularly famous for its cheese, 
 of two sorts — a very excellent cream 
 cheese, and one which, when in per- 
 fection, is not to be distinguished 
 from the best Stilton, The Ch. is 
 chiefly Perp., but is of no great 
 interest.] 
 
 At 11 m. Stretham Bridge, the line 
 crosses the old channel of the Ouse 
 or West river, once tlie main outlet of 
 the Fen waters, but now of less im- 
 portance since the construction of the 
 Washes (or the Bedford rivers), two 
 large cuts along which the waters 
 are conveyed by a shorter route to 
 the sea (see a^Ue}. The rly. now 
 enters tlie great drainage called Bed- 
 ford Level (see Rte. 5, and Introd., 
 ' Cambridgeshire'), and is carried on a 
 raised embankment, flanked by wide 
 ditches of drainage on either hand. 
 The district towards Ely is called the 
 Middle Fen. On all sides are seen 
 ditches, and wind and steam mills, 
 which latter are gradually coming 
 into exclusive use, both for draining 
 the fens and grinding corn. 
 
 A remarkable bow of horn, said to 
 have been found in the fens between 
 Waterbeach and Ely, was exhibited 
 in 1856 at a meeting of the Archseo- 
 logieal Institute. Its length, when 
 complete, was '^2\ inches. It was 
 formed of a single horn ; and one end, 
 being the part where the horn had 
 joined the skull, had been broken off. 
 The " hornboga," or bow of horn, is 
 mentioned in Beowulf; and it is still 
 in use among some eastern tribes, 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boiite 3.— jEJZy ; History, 
 
 393 
 
 No object of interest occurs until 
 the great towers of the Cathedral are 
 seen towering above the marshes, 
 and wo reach 
 
 Ely Stat. (The stat. is distant 
 ^ m. from the Cathedral. An omni- 
 bus meets the trains. Inns: Lamb, 
 very good and comfortable; Bell; 
 White Hart.) 
 
 After leaving the stat., the visitor 
 finds himself gradually ascending 
 until he reaches the Cathedral. This 
 ascent marks the highest ground in 
 the Isle of Ely — the great " fortress 
 of the fens," and the guardian, 
 through many centuries, of the 
 " most stately and varied " cathedral 
 church in England. 
 
 Ely, so named from the eels which 
 abounded there — " nomen accepit a 
 copia anguillarum " (Becle, ' H. E.' 
 iv. 19) — although the old chronicler 
 of the Abbey thought that, from its 
 shrines and its sanctity, it might 
 well be interpreted " terra dei," since 
 '' Hebraice, El, Deus, get, erra sonat " 
 — is the largest of the " islands " (ea, 
 ig = island) whicli .at intervals rise 
 above the level of the fens, and 
 which, before the great draining 
 operations of the 17th century, were, 
 in winter, surrcjunded by water, and 
 were at all times inaccessible unless 
 by certain " gates " or passes across 
 the fen. The high ground of Ely is 
 a mass of lower greensand resting on 
 Kimmeridge clay. The boundaries 
 of the true Isle (which Bede de- 
 scribes as a land of GOO families), 
 beginning at Earith bridge, run by 
 Sutton, Mepal, Witcham, and Down- 
 ham, to Littleport. Thence, return- 
 ing to Ely, they proceed by Stretham, 
 and Aldreth, to Earith. These 
 limits embrace the old high ground 
 which rose above the marshes, and 
 to which the only entrances were at 
 Earith, at Aldreth, at Stuntney 
 bridge, close to Ely, and at Little- 
 port. To this true " Isle " the hun- 
 dreds comprising the northern part 
 of Cambridgeshire were attached ; 
 
 so that all this part of the country is 
 now known as the Isle of Ely. Tho 
 " liberties of Thorney and Whittle- 
 sea " formed anciently a distinct por- 
 tion. All the rest was a County 
 Palatine (it was so in eftect, although 
 it does not seem to have been so 
 called ; it was known as the " Boyal 
 Franchise," or Liberty of the Bishops 
 of Ely), subject to the exclusive juris- 
 diction of the Bishop of Ely, just as 
 the "Bishoprick" of Durham was 
 under the rule of the bishop of that 
 see. The power of the bishops was 
 greatly lessened in the reign of Hen. 
 VIII., but their temporal jurisdiction 
 remained throughout the diocese un- 
 til the year 1837. 
 
 The history of the Isle of Ely is 
 identified with that of its great 
 Benedictine monasteiy, the church 
 of which afterwards became the Ca- 
 thedral of Ely. Bound the convent 
 grew up the little " bourg," the present 
 city of 7000 inhabitants, which alone 
 among English "cities" sends no 
 member to Parliament ; indeed, the 
 streets of low houses, and the open 
 spaces between them, give to the 
 l^lace almost the character of a 
 village. 
 
 The monastery was founded by 
 St. Etheldi'eda (her true name is 
 ^theldrythe) in the year 673. Ely 
 did not become the seat of a 
 bishopric until 1109, when a new 
 diocese was erected, embracing the 
 whole of Cambridgeshire, and taken 
 out of the then vast diocese of 
 Lincoln. In 1837 the counties of 
 Huntingdon and Bedford (up to that 
 time in Lincoln) were added to the 
 diocese of Ely; together with the 
 archdeaconry of Sudbury, in Suffolk, 
 which had hitherto belonged to the 
 diocese of Norwich. 
 
 Until the Dissolution the great 
 glory of Ely Cathedral was the 
 shrine of St. Etheldreda, and those 
 of her sister saints. It was to these 
 shrines (but chiefly to that of St. 
 Etheldreda), to the pilgrimages made 
 to them, and to the wealth oflered 
 
 s3 
 
394 
 
 Route 3. — Ely : History. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 at them, that the church was in- 
 debted for its magniiicence, and for 
 its architectural splendour. Ethol- 
 dreda — one of the most celebrated of 
 English saints — was the daughter 
 of Anna, King of the East Anglians, 
 who fell in i)attle with Penda of 
 Mercia, in the year 654. After his 
 death, his wife Hereswytha took 
 refuge in the convent of Chelle, near 
 Paris, and his four daughters, Sex- 
 burga, Ethelburga, Etheldreda, and 
 Withburga, all, at ditferent periods, 
 retired from the world, and became 
 distinguished patronesses of the 
 monastic life. Two years before her 
 father's death, Etheldreda had be- 
 come the wife of Tondbercht, " King" 
 of the South Gyrvians (fen -men, 
 f/?/?-, A.-S.=afen) whose country was 
 the border district between Mercia 
 and East Anglia. Within it lay the 
 Isle of Ely, which Etheldreda re- 
 ceived as her dower; and on lier 
 husband's death, three years after 
 her marriage, she retired thither, in- 
 duced as much by the solitude as by 
 the protection afforded by the sur- 
 rounding marshes. Her widowhood 
 continued for five years, when she 
 was again sought in marriage by 
 Egfrid of Northumbria. Etheldreda 
 is said to have made a vow of per- 
 petual virginity, which was respected 
 by both her husbands; and in the 
 twelfth year of her marriage with 
 Egfrid she obtained his leave to put 
 into execution a long-formed pro- 
 ject, and received the veil from the 
 hands of Bishop Wilfrid, at Colding- 
 hame, in the modern Bewickshire, 
 where St, Ebba, aunt of King Egfrid, 
 had founded a monastery. But Eg- 
 frid soon repented of his permission, 
 and set out for Coldingham with a 
 band of followers, intending to take 
 his queen from the monastery by 
 violence. By the advice of the 
 Abbess, Etheldreda fled, to find re- 
 fuge in her old home at Ely, There 
 she arrived after encountering many 
 perils, and after, according to her 
 legend, many miracles had been 
 
 wrought in her favour. At Ely she 
 at once began (a.d, 673) the founda- 
 tion of a monastery for both sexes, 
 after the fashion of the time. The 
 site of this she fixed as a place called 
 Cratendune, about a mile S. of the 
 existing Cathedral, where, according 
 to a later tradition, a church had 
 been founded by St, Augustine (see 
 the ' Liber Eliensis ; ' the tradition 
 seems to have arisen from a feeling 
 that so sacred a spot as Ely must 
 necessarily have been Christianised 
 at the earliest possible period). 
 From Cratendune, however, the 
 building was almost at once removed 
 to the high ground where the 
 Cathedral now stands, from which 
 this first church of St, Etheldreda 
 was placed a short distance west- 
 ward. St. Wilfrid, the famous 
 bishop of Northumbria, installed 
 Etheldreda as Abbess of the new 
 community, which, with the excep- 
 tion of Peterborough (founded 664), 
 and perhaps of Thorney (662? see 
 Kte, 4), was the earliest of the 
 great monasteries of the fens, Ethel- 
 dreda ruled it till 679, when her 
 deathbed was attended by her 
 "priest," Huna, who buried her in 
 the churchyard of her monastery, and 
 himself spent the rest of his life as a 
 hermit on one of the islands of the 
 marshes {Honey, Hrma's Island, not 
 far from March ; see Ete, 4). Sex- 
 burga, sister of St, Etheldreda, who 
 had married Erconbert of Kent, and 
 on his death had founded a monas- 
 tery in the Isle of Sheppey, had 
 withdra'SATi to Ely during Ethel- 
 dreda's lifetime, and became Abbess 
 on her death. Sixteen years later 
 she determined to translate the body 
 of her sister into the church, and for 
 this purpose sent out certain of the 
 brethren to seek a block of stone 
 from which a fitting coflin Qocellus) 
 might be made. They discovered a 
 sarcophagus of white marble among 
 the ruins of Eoman Granchester 
 (close to Cambridge, see Kte. 1) ; and 
 in this the body of the saint, which, 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boute B.'-'Elf/ : History. 
 
 395 
 
 gays the legend, was found entire 
 and incorrupt, was duly laid, and 
 removed into the church. (See Bede, 
 'H. E.' iv. ch. 19). Bede is the 
 earliest and best authority for the 
 life of St. Etheldreda. A life com- 
 piled in the 12th centy. by Thomas 
 of Ely is printed in the 2nd vol. of 
 Mabillon's 'Acta Sanct. Ord. Bene- 
 dict.') Sexburga was afterwards 
 herself interred near it, as was her 
 daughter Ermenilda, the third Ab- 
 bess, Tlie three Abbesses — together 
 with St. Withburga, another sister 
 of St. Etheldreda, who founded a 
 monastery at Dereham in Norfolk 
 (see Norfolk, Rte. 6), but whose 
 relics were afterwards removed to 
 Ely — were regarded as the special 
 patronesses of the Isle of Ely. The 
 translation (into the later — existing 
 — church, see post) of St. Etheldreda, 
 or St. Awdrey, as she was generally 
 called, was celebrated on the 17th of 
 October, when pilgrims flocked to her 
 shrine from all quarters. A great 
 fair was then held adjoining the 
 monastery, at which silken chains, or 
 laces, called *' Etheldred's chains," 
 were sold, and displayed as " signs " 
 of pilgrimage. The word " tawdrey " 
 (St. Audrey ; so 'TAnn for St. Anne) 
 is said to be derived from these 
 chains, and from similar " flimsy and 
 trivial objects" sold at this fair. 
 
 St. Werburga, the fourth Abbess, 
 daughter of St. Ermenilda by King 
 Wulfere of Mercia, is the last whose 
 name is recorded. The monastery 
 was destioyed during the terrible 
 Danish invasion of the year 870, 
 when Crowland and Peterborough 
 also perished, and when St. Edmund, 
 king of East Anglia, was killed 
 (see Suffolk Ete. 3 — Bury St. Ed- 
 mund's) ; and although a body of 
 secular clergy was soon afterwards 
 established on its site, Ely had en- 
 tirely lost its ancient importance 
 when the monastery was refounded 
 in 870 by Athelwold, Bishop of Win- 
 chester — the great patron of the 
 monks — who was also the restorer of 
 
 Peterborough. Athelwold purchased 
 the whole district of the Isle of Ely 
 from King Eadgar, a]id settled it on 
 his monastery, which he filled with 
 Benedictines, over whom he placed 
 Brihtnoth, Prior of Winchester, as 
 abbot. Among the kin5;'s gifts to 
 the monastery were a golden cross 
 filled with relies, which had been 
 part of the bishop's " purchase 
 money," and his own royal mantle, 
 of purple, embroidered with gold. 
 
 Prom tlie time of this second foun- 
 dation until the Conquest, Ely con- 
 tinued to increase in wealth and 
 importance, and its abbots were 
 among the most powerful church- 
 men of their time. From the reign 
 of Ethelred to the Conquest they 
 were chancellors of the King's Court 
 alternately with the Abbots of 
 Glastonbury, and of St. Augustine's, 
 Canterbury — each holding the office 
 for four months. Among otlier 
 great personages buried in their 
 church was Brihtnoth, the Ealdor- 
 man of the East Saxons, who fell so 
 nobly at Mai don (a. d. 991 ; see 
 Essex, Ete. 4.) He had been a great 
 benefactor to Ely, and although the 
 Danes carried off" from the battle- 
 field his head (the place of which the 
 abbot supplied with a lump of wax), 
 his body was conveyed in safety to 
 Ely, and his widow gave to the ch. 
 a rich curtain, wrought with the 
 "gests" and warlike deeds of her 
 husband, " in memoriam probitatis 
 ejus " — an English rival of the 
 Bayeux tapestry. 
 
 IMany traditions have connected 
 the great Cnut with Ely, where his 
 memory was in after times greatly 
 cherished; and he seems to have 
 often kept the feast of the Purifica- 
 tion here— at which period the abbot 
 entered on his office as chancellor. 
 On one occasion the king found the 
 surrounding fen-lands overflowed and 
 frozen. A " ceorl " named Brithmer, 
 and called " Budde = the Stout," 
 "vir magnus et incompositus," led 
 the way for Cnut's sledge over the 
 
30G 
 
 Boute 3. — Ely : History. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 ice of Soham Mere, proving the I 
 thickness of the ice hy a dangerous 
 service, for which Brithmer and his 
 lands were enfranchised. The king's 
 traditional song, too, is said to have 
 been composed when approaching 
 Ely on another festival — 
 
 " Merie sungen the muneches binnen Ely 
 Tha Cmit clilni:; reu ther by ; 
 Koweib, cnihtes, noer the land 
 And here we thes muneches sang." 
 
 (According to the ' Liber Eliensis ' 
 this verse was only the beginning of 
 Cnut's song. The writer gives it, 
 and adds, " et cpetera qua? sequuntur, 
 quae usque hodie in choris publice 
 cantantur et in proverbiis memor- 
 antur." — L. ii. c. 85.) His queen, 
 Emma, gave a magnificent covering 
 for the shrine of St. Etheldreda — 
 as Cnut himself gave one, woven 
 with figures of peacocks, for the tomb 
 of Eadmund Ironside at Glaston- 
 bury. 
 
 Thurstan, abbot of the monastery 
 at the time of the Conquest, was 
 born at AVichford, near Ely, and had 
 been brought uj) in the convent from 
 a child. He was a true Englishman, 
 and seems to have received cordially 
 tl;e scattered and broken English — 
 among whom were the great Earls 
 Eadwin and INIorkere, and Egelwin, 
 Bishop of Durham, — who took refuge 
 in Ely, and held the Isle for a con- 
 siderable time against the Conqueror 
 and his forces. The year in which 
 Ely was first made an English 
 " fastness " is uncertain. In 1071 
 King William brought out '' his land 
 force and ship force, and beset the 
 land all al)Out, and wrought a bridge, 
 and went in, and the ship force on 
 the water side. And then all the 
 outlaws went and surrendered to the 
 king ; there were bishop ^gelwine, 
 and earl Morkere, and all who were 
 with them, except Hereward only, 
 and all who could flee away with 
 him. And he boldly let them out, 
 and the king took their ships and 
 weapons and many treasures ; and 
 all the men ho took, and did with 
 
 them what he would." This is the 
 l)rief statement of the English 
 Chronicles. Thomas of Ely (' Hist. 
 Eliensl,s" ap. Wharton, *Ang.-Sax.' 
 i. 610) says that William ravaged 
 the lands of the monastery which lay 
 without the Isle, and gave them to 
 his soldiers. The monks, greatly 
 troubled, sought the king at War- 
 wick, in the seventh year of their 
 "sedition," gave him a thousand 
 marks, recovered their lands, and 
 were received into the Conqueror's 
 favour. AN-Tiarton, under the title of 
 ' Historia Eliensis,' printed portions 
 of the book known as ' Liber Elien- 
 sis,' written by Tiiomas, a monk of 
 Ely, who was living about the year 
 1153. The first two books of the 
 ' Liber Eliensis ' were edited in 1848 
 by the Kev. D. J. Stewart, for the 
 Society called ' Anglia Christiana.' 
 The 'Liber Eliensis,' and the very 
 doubtful ' Continuator ' of Crowland, 
 contain long accounts of the struggle, 
 and it is from them we learn the 
 attempt of William to gain access to 
 the Isle at Aldreth, and the failure 
 of the bridge there (jwst, Exc. from 
 Ely). The facts, with the exception 
 of what is stated in the English 
 Chronicle, are very uncertain, al- 
 though there is no reason why the 
 accounts in the ' Liber Eliensis ' 
 should be set aside as entirely ficti- 
 tious ; and with respect to the famous 
 Hereward — whose reputation was so 
 great in Ely — all that is really known 
 concerning him is to be found in the 
 passage quoted above, in another 
 describing the plunder of Peter- 
 boroivgh (see pos^, and in a corre- 
 sponding passage in Florence of Wor- 
 cester. Til at much more was told 
 about him in legend and tradition 
 need hardly be said. The poem of 
 Gaiuiar, and the Crowland 'Con- 
 tinuator,' contain much; but the 
 great magazine of Hereward stories 
 is the book 'De Gestis Herwardi 
 Saxonis,' said to be of the 12th 
 centy., and containing, it may be, a 
 few grains of truth, concealed bene ath 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boute 3. — Ely : History. 
 
 397 
 
 vast heaps of impossible fiction. Tijis 
 book was published in Michel's 
 ' Clironiques anglo - normaudes ' 
 (ISoG); and mnch will be found 
 concerning it in Wright's 'Essays 
 on the Literature, &c. of England,' 
 (184G). Mr. Kingsley's story of 
 Hereward is founded almost entirely 
 on tlie ' De Gestis.' The connection 
 of the Ely hero with the family of 
 Wake is, at best, uncertain, and it 
 does not seem to have been asserted 
 before the 14th centy., when John of 
 Peterborough gives Hereward the 
 name of " le Wake." 
 
 Earl Eadwine had been in Ely, 
 but had " fled away '' before William 
 obtained possession of the Isle. In 
 1070 Christian, the Dane, Bishop of 
 Aarhus, and Asbiorn Jarl, with their 
 Danish '• huscarls," came to Ely — 
 already, it would seem, an English 
 "camp of refuge"' — and, says the 
 chronicle, '■ the English folk from all 
 the fen-lands came to them, weening 
 that they would win all the land." 
 These Danes — and Hereward and 
 his men with them — plundered 
 Peterborough, and set fire to the 
 monastery. The Danish fleet " went 
 out from Ely " with vast treasure, 
 much of which was lost in a great 
 storm at sea. 
 
 Norman abbots succeeded Thur- 
 stan at Ely, two of whom, Simeon 
 and Eichard, built the great Norman 
 cliurch (see ]wsij. Abbot Eichard, 
 who died in 1107, had suggested tlie 
 erection of an episcopal see at Ely. 
 His death jjrevented him from be- 
 coming liimself the first bishop. The 
 monks approved the ciiaiige ; and, in 
 1108, the Council of London, pre- 
 sided over by Abp. Anselm, con- 
 sented to the creation of the new see. 
 In 1109 Herve' le Breton was trans- 
 lated from Bangor, and became the 
 first bishop of Ely. Constant disputes 
 with tiie l>ishop of Lincoln, concern- 
 ing his rights over the monastery, 
 were perhaps the earliest induce- 
 ments to the creation of the new 
 see ; but the great size of the diocese 
 
 of Lincoln is expressly mentioned in 
 the letters of the king and of Anselm 
 to the Pope, Paschal II. ; and it is 
 also said that the king (Henry I.), 
 aware how strongly the Isle of Ely 
 was fortified by nature, was anxious 
 (by placuig a bishop at its head) to 
 divide the great revenues of the 
 abbey, and thereby to render it less 
 powerful in case of insurrection. 
 
 The constitution of Ely, after its 
 erection into a bishoi^ric, resembled 
 that of the other conventual cathe- 
 drals of England — Canterbury, Win- 
 chester, Worcester, Bath, Eochester, 
 Norvvich, and Durham ; in all which 
 sees the bishops were regarded as, 
 in effect, abbots of the conventual 
 establishments attached to them. 
 The first bishop, Herve le Breton, 
 divided the lands and revenues of 
 the convent between himself and the 
 monks — by no means to the satisfac- 
 tion of the latter. Indeed, as in 
 other sees of the same constitution, 
 there Avere constant disputes between 
 the bishops and the monks. The 
 second bishop, Nigel, nephew of the 
 powerful bishop Roger of Salisbury, 
 and brotlier of Alexander, Bishoj) 
 of ^Lincoln, was active on the side of 
 the Empress Matilda, while the 
 monks adhered to Stephen. Accord- 
 ingly, he is described as "ssevus 
 semper monachis et infestus ; ' ' and 
 even portions of the silver plating 
 were removed by him from the shrine 
 of St. Etheldreda for payment of 
 fines to the king. Bp. "Nigel built 
 a castle at Ely, of which no traces 
 remain; and there was much fight- 
 ing in and round the Isle between 
 the parties of Stephen and Ma- 
 tilda. At a later period, duiing 
 the Barons' War, Ely became the 
 stronghold of certain followers of 
 of the Barons, who made thence 
 forays on Cambridge and the neigh- 
 bouring towns, doing much mischief 
 at Barnwell Abbey (see Cambridge, 
 Ete. 1). 
 
 The history and associations of 
 Ely, however, are best read in the 
 
398 
 
 Houte 3. —Ehj : Cailiedral. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 architecture and monuments of its 
 Cathedral, This is the first, and, 
 incomparably, the most important, 
 object of interest in the place. Be- 
 sides the Cathedral, the visitor to 
 Ely should observe the remains of 
 the monastic buildings ; the Church 
 of St. Mary ; and the house occupied 
 once by Cromwell. 
 
 The foundations of the existing 
 Cathedral of Ely were laid by Simeon, 
 the fii-st Norm, abbot (1082-1094). 
 Simeon, who was of noble birth, and 
 related to tlie Conqueror, was the 
 brother of Walkelin, first Norman 
 bishop of Winchester, who also re- 
 built his cathedral. The church 
 thus commenced by Simeon was 
 so far completed by his successor. 
 Abbot Richard (1100-1107), that he 
 was able to translate into it from 
 the Saxon church the body of St. 
 Etheldreda, the great patroness of 
 the monastery, to whom, conjointly 
 w4th St. Peter, the building was 
 dedicated. No further record exists 
 of the iirogress of the work until 
 Bishop Geoffrey Ridel (117 4:-ll9S) is 
 mentioned as having " completed the 
 new work to its western end (usque 
 occidentem), together with the tower, 
 nearly to the summit." Bishop Eu- 
 sface (1198-1215) built the Galilee, or 
 Western Porch. Bishop Iluqh of 
 Norioold (1229-1254) pulled down 
 the Norman choir, and rebuilt it in 
 17 years— from 1235 to 1252. In the 
 year 1322, during the episcopate of 
 John Hotham (1316-1337), Abbot 
 Simeon's central tower fell, as his 
 brother Walkelin's, at Winchester, 
 had fallen in 1107. The octagon 
 ])y which the tower was replaced 
 was begun in the same year (1322), 
 and finished in 1328. The lantern 
 above it, begun in 1328, was finished 
 in 1342. The western portion of 
 Bp. Hugh's Choir, which had been 
 ruined by the fall of the tower, was 
 rebuilt, chiefly at the expense of 
 Bp. Hotham, who at his death left 
 money for the purpose. The work 
 
 was begun in 1338. The Lady Chapel, 
 the erection of which was mainly 
 due to John of Wisbeach, a brother 
 ©f the monastery, was began in 1321, 
 and completed in 1349. Chantries 
 at the eastern ends of the choir aisles 
 were built by Bp. Alcock (1486-1500), 
 and Bp. West (1515-1553). 
 
 From these dates it will be seen 
 that the Cathedral contains examples 
 of the diflerent periods of Gothic 
 architecture, from early Norm, to 
 late Perp. The chroniclers of the 
 Abbey have recorded the exact date 
 of nearly every portion of the build- 
 ing, which thus acquires the highest 
 possible value and interest for the 
 student of architecture. Nor are the 
 examples which it afibrds anywhere 
 exceeded in beauty or importance. 
 The Galilee and eastern portion of 
 the choir take rank among the very 
 best works of the E. Eng. period; 
 whilst the Octagon, the western choir, 
 and the Lady Chapel are probably the 
 finest examples of pure Dec. to be 
 found in England. 
 
 The Cathedral was in a sad and 
 degraded condition when its restora- 
 tion was set on foot by the late Dean 
 Peacock, who himself superintended 
 much of the work. In 1847 Mr. 
 G. G. Scott was appointed architect 
 of the works, and all that has since 
 been done has been under his direc- 
 tion or with his approval. The re- 
 storation is no doubt one of the most 
 perfect and elaborate that has any- 
 where been attempted ; and although 
 objections may fairly be made to the 
 varied (and in some cases indifferent) 
 character of the stained glass, and 
 perhaps to some other jaarts of the 
 decoration, the ch. in its present con- 
 dition is one which it is impossible 
 to enter without gratitude for the 
 reverence which has brought back 
 so much of its ancient glory, and 
 admiration of the skill which has 
 been employed on it. The various 
 points of restoration and enrichment 
 will be pointed out as we proceed. 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Houte 3.— Ely : Cathedral. 
 
 399 
 
 The cli. is built throughout of 
 stone from Barnack, in Northamp- 
 tonshire. Purbeck marble is used 
 extensively for interior shafts and 
 capitals, and some of the interior 
 mouldings and ornaments are worked 
 in a soft white stone called " clunch," 
 found in the neighbourhood of Ely. 
 
 Ely Oithedral, which measures 
 537 ft. from the exterior of the W. 
 porch to the exterior eastern but- 
 tresses, is, except Winchester (the 
 exterior length of which is 555 ft. 
 8 in.), the longest Gothic ch. not 
 only in England but in Europe ; 
 although others (as, for example, 
 Milan) cover much more ground. 
 (Winchester is, no doubt, the longest 
 ch. in the world, but its retroclioir 
 and Lady Chapel are not visible 
 from the W. portal, whereas at Ely 
 the whole length, unbroken by any 
 solid screen or wall, is commanded 
 from the W. porch.) 
 
 Leaving the exterior for the pre- 
 sent, we enter the Cathedral by the 
 Galilee or western porch, the recorded 
 work of Bp. Eustace (1198-1215). 
 This is perhaps the most beautiful 
 E. Eng. porch which exists any- 
 where. The main arch of entrance cir- 
 cumscribes two smaller ones, which 
 spring from a central group of shafts. 
 These subordinate arches are foliated. 
 The space between them and the 
 enclosing arch is filled with tracery. 
 Above the entrance is a triplet 
 window. The angles are supported 
 by groups of clustered shafts, which 
 terminate above the roof in slender 
 turrets. The sides of the porch, N. 
 and S., are lined by four tiers of 
 arcades, the two uppermost of which 
 have foliated arches. 
 
 Within, the porch, which is 40 ft. 
 in length, consists of two bays simply 
 vaulted. The wall of each bay is 
 divided into two stories by blind 
 arcades, very gracefully disposed. 
 Remark especially the excellent efiect 
 given to the lower arcade by its 
 
 divisions of outer and inner arches, 
 and by the manner in which the 
 lines of the front shafts, which reach 
 nearly to the ground, intersect the 
 vaulting of the arcade against the 
 wall behind them. The outer arches 
 are enriched with the dog-tooth 
 moulding. The arch through which 
 the Cathedral is entered is divided, 
 like the arch of entrance to the 
 porch, into two, by central shafts. 
 The rich exterior mouldings, and the 
 leafage on the capitals of the shafts, 
 should all be noticed. The porch, 
 including the beautiful arch of 
 entrance to the nave, has been 
 thoroughly restored. Tiie old doors 
 have been repaired, and covered with 
 very rich iron work, gilt and coloured. 
 Bp. Eustace, the builder of the 
 porch, was Coeur de Lion's chan- 
 cellor, and one of the three bishops 
 who in the following reign (March 
 24, 1208) published the famous In- 
 terdict of Innocent III. The name 
 Galilsea, "Galilee," is expressly ap- 
 plied to this W. porch by the chro- 
 niclers of Ely. It is used else- 
 where, as at Lincoln and Durham, to 
 denote similar additions, of some- 
 what less sacred character than the 
 rest of the building, no doubt in 
 alhision to " Galilee of the Gentiles." 
 The Galilee at Durham forms a large 
 chapel at the W. end of the nave. 
 The Galilees at Ely and at Lincoln 
 may have been used for purpo.ses of 
 instruction, and occasionally as courts 
 of law. 
 
 Entering the Cathedral, the visitor 
 finds himsielf within the great W. 
 tower, through the eastern arch of 
 which a superb view is commanded 
 up the nave with its painted ceil- 
 ing, beyond the arches and graceful 
 tracery of the lantern, and beyond 
 the rich screen, to the coloured roof 
 of the choir, and the stained glass of 
 the distant eastern windows. The 
 view from this point is only ex- 
 ceeded in interest (if indeed it be so) 
 by that (see post) from the S.W. 
 
400 
 
 -Ely: Catliedral. 
 
 Sect. ly. 
 
 angle of the octagon. The eye is 
 well led onward to the farther end, 
 the work gradually increashig in 
 riclmcss as it advances eastward ; 
 but, owing to tlie white light at 
 present admitted through the clere- 
 story and triforium windows of the 
 nave, the choir and presbytery are 
 darker than the western portion of 
 the ch., and the great length of the 
 building is made to seem less than 
 it really is. The nave from this W. 
 door appears narrow, and the aisles 
 are altogether unseen. 
 
 The Western Tower, begun by Bp. 
 Geoffry Eidel (1174-1189), and per- 
 haps carried on by his successor, 
 William Longchamp (1189-1198), 
 was much altered and strengthened 
 during the Perp. period, when the 
 transition Norm, arches were con- 
 tracted by those Avhich now exist. 
 The zigzag moulding above marks 
 the extent of the original arches. 
 The work, after the erection of the 
 uppermost or Dec. story of the tower 
 ( see post, Exterior) had probabh' 
 shown signs of weakness, and the 
 fall of the central tower in the pre- 
 ceding centy. no doubt led the monks 
 to apply a remedy to this one in due 
 time. Two tiers of arcaded galleries, 
 the arches of which have trefoiled 
 headings, but are massive and Norm, 
 in character, run round above the 
 pier arches, and above again are 
 three pointed windows in each side. 
 On the W. side the lower arcade is 
 pierced for light, as well as the 
 upper. The window over the en- 
 trance, filleil with stained glass, is 
 modern. The glass in the upper 
 part diites from 1807; that of the 
 lower lights has recently been added. 
 
 The interior of the tower has been 
 restored since 1845, when a floor 
 above the lower arches was removed, 
 and the present painted roof inserted. 
 This was designed and executed by 
 the late H. L. Styhman le Strange, 
 Esq., of Hunstanton Hall (see Nor- 
 folk, Rte. 9), The style of de- 
 
 coration is that which prevailed in 
 England about the close of the 12th 
 centy., when this part of the tower 
 was completed. The subject, placed 
 appropriately at the entrance to the 
 ch., is the Creation of the Universe. 
 Stems and branches of foliage em- 
 brace and sustain five circles placed 
 crosswise. In the upper circle toward 
 the E. is depicted the Dextr% Domini, 
 the " Eight Hand of the Lord," 
 as the emblem of the Almighty 
 Father. The central circle contains 
 our Saviour in an aureole, in the act 
 of exercising creative power. In 
 His left hand He holds the globe of 
 the world, and He is surrounded by 
 the sun, moon, and stars. About 
 Him is written the text, "I am 
 before all things, and by me all 
 tilings exist.'' In the circle beneath 
 is the Holy Dove, brooding over the 
 waters of the newly created earth. 
 Kays of light proceed from the Dextra 
 Domini in a threefold manner, and 
 embrace within their influence the 
 other two Persons of the Godliead. 
 In the other two circles are figures 
 of cherubim and seraphim, holding 
 scrolls, on which are the words, 
 " Holy, Holy, Ploly, Lord God of 
 Sabaoth." Round the whole is a 
 text from Revelations, ch. iv. 11 — 
 " Thou art worthy, O Lord, to receive 
 honour and glory and power : for 
 Thou hast createci all things, and for 
 Thy pleasure they are and were 
 created." 
 
 It was while tliis tower was in 
 course of restoration, in 1845, that 
 Mr. Basevi, the architect of the Fitz- 
 william Museum at Cambridge, fell 
 from the upper roof and was killed 
 on the spot. He was buried in the 
 N. choir aisle, where a brass com- 
 memorates him. 
 
 Bp. Ridel's original plan embraced 
 a western transept opening from the 
 tower, and flanked by octagonal 
 turrets at the angles. The N.W. 
 transept fell, at what time is un- 
 certain, and remains in a ruined con- 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boiite 3. — Ely : Catliedrcd. 
 
 401 
 
 dition, having perhaps been weakened 
 either by the erection of the upper 
 story of the tower or by the sub- 
 sequent insertion of the Perp arches. 
 The S. W. transept has been restored. 
 Bp. Ridel's work extends apparently 
 as high as the clerestory, where the 
 transition Norm, arches and arcades 
 jire replaced by E. Eng. The upper 
 portions of the W. tower, and of the 
 transepts, were probably built during 
 the episcopate of Bp. Ridel's successor 
 William Longchamp (1189-1197). 
 The lower stories of tlie S. and W. 
 sides are covered with blind arcades, 
 of which that in the centre has inter- 
 laced arches. On the E. side are 
 two circular arches, much enriched 
 with zigzag, one of which opens to 
 the nave aisle, the other to the Chapel 
 of St. Catlierine, which, long in ruins, 
 has lately been rebuilt, and is now 
 used as the baptistery chaijel. This 
 is semicircular and of two bays. The 
 walls are lined with a double arcade. 
 The stained glass of the windows is 
 by Wilmshurst, — the Baptism of Our 
 Lord, after a picture by Bassano; 
 the Saviour with little children, from 
 a well-known Overbeck. The deep 
 colours of the Bassano have a striking 
 effect, althougli the design is scarcely 
 in keeping with the massive archi- 
 tecture of the chapel. 
 
 The floors of transept and chapel 
 have been laid with alternating 
 squares of stone and Purbeck marble, 
 and the border of that of the chapel 
 has been further enriched by an 
 incised pattern filled with coluuretl 
 cement. In the tiansept is a modern 
 font of Norm, character. 
 
 The Nave, which we now enter, is 
 throughout late Norm., and may 
 be compared with the neighbouring 
 Norm, nave of Peterborough, which 
 must have been in building at the 
 same time. The building of the 
 nave of Ely is not recorded by the 
 chroniclers of the Abbey. It is cer- 
 tainly of much later date than the 
 tiiue of Abbot Richard (see ante), 
 
 j who is said to have continued the 
 work begun by Simeon. It was pro- 
 bably for some time in building, but 
 must have been completed before 
 1174, the date of the accession of 
 Bp. Ridel. The work is plain through- 
 out, and differs in this respect from 
 Peterborough ; but the height of the 
 arches, which are slightly stilted, as 
 well as the slender shafts of the 
 triforium and clerestory, sufficiently 
 indicate its late character. It consists 
 of twelve bays, alternating in design, 
 as at Norwich ; the early Norm, nave 
 of which cathedral should be com- 
 pared with the late Norm, of Ely and 
 Peterborough. The arrangement of 
 the piers at Norwich is much simpler 
 and ruder than at Elj, where the 
 Semi-attached shafts of the more 
 complex piers already approach the 
 Trans. Tlie arches are recessed 
 in three orders of plain mouldings. 
 In the triforium above, a wide and 
 lofty circular arch, of precisely the 
 same character and nearly the same 
 height as that immediately be^ow it, 
 comprises two smaller arches, carried 
 by a central shaft. The triforium 
 extends over the aisles, the walls of 
 which have been raised, and Perp. 
 windows inserted. The clerestory in 
 each bay is formed by an arcade of 
 three semicircular arches, that in the 
 centre being a little higher tlian the 
 two others. At the back is a round- 
 headed window. A string-course, 
 with tlie billet moulding, passes 
 along at the base of the triforium, 
 and a jjlain roll above and below the 
 clerestory. Vaulting shafts, in groups 
 of three, rise between each bay on 
 the S. side. On the N. side a single 
 circular shaft is set on a square 
 pilaster. The string-courses band 
 these shafts. 
 
 The dimensions of this nave are, 
 length, 208 ft. ; breadth, with aisles, 
 77 ft. 3 in. ; height (to top of walls), 
 72 ft. 9 in. The nave of Peterborough 
 is 211 ft. in length, and 81 ft. high. 
 That of Norwich is 200 ft. long, and 
 G9 ft, G in. high. (But this ineasure? 
 
402 
 
 Boute 3. — Ely : Catliedral. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 ment only extends to the screen. 
 Three Lays of the true nave at Nor- 
 wich, from the screen to the transept 
 crossing, are included in the choir. 
 The full length, from the W. door to 
 the transept, is 250 ft. 
 
 The roo/ of the nave, as originally 
 constructed, was probably finished 
 internally with a horizontal ceiling 
 of wood stretched across from wall 
 to wall, as is the case at Peterborough 
 and St. Alban's. This was the most 
 usual mode in Norman times, where 
 no stone vault existed. The external 
 form, as well as that of the transept 
 roof, appears, from the weatherings 
 still existing, to have been truncated. 
 In consequence, however, of the de- 
 viation from the orighial plans made 
 by Alan of Walsingham when he 
 erected the central lantern, it became 
 necessary to reconstruct the roof over 
 this portion of the building, and the 
 result was the high-pitched form 
 which exists at the present day, in- 
 ternally braced with a series of inter- 
 lacing timbers, in such a manner as 
 to form an irregular polygonal roof, 
 sufficiently high to surmount the 
 newly-inserted lantern-arch. This 
 roof seems to have received no kind 
 of finish until, after the painting of 
 the tower ceiling, it was determined 
 to extend the decoration to that of 
 the nave, the roof of which was 
 accordingly coated internally with 
 boards. Mr. le Strange, after painting 
 the tower roof, undertook the paint- 
 ing of that of the nave. He had 
 spared no labour in the examination 
 of MS. authorities for Norm, orna- 
 mentation, and of existing remains 
 of Norman painting in English and 
 foreign churches. He had completed 
 the six westernmost bays when the 
 work was interrupted by his death, 
 in 18G2. The painting of the re- 
 maining half of the ceiling was then 
 undertaken by Mr. Gamhier Parry, 
 ofHighnam.in Gloucestershire. The 
 general design of Mr. le Strange's 
 work was cast upon the model of the 
 
 Jesse tree, which was itself to bo 
 incorporated into the work as the 
 latter part of the history. But as 
 the painting advanced, the introduc- 
 tion of large sacred subjects seemed 
 far more desirable on so enormous a 
 surface, and the change was accord- 
 ingly made, in accordance with Mr. 
 le Strange's own judgment. 
 
 The subjects of these paintings 
 are the principal incidents of reference 
 to Our Lord, from the Creation of 
 Man by the " Word of God" to His 
 final coming in glory. The six com- 
 pleted by Mr. le Strange, beginning 
 at the W. end of the nave, are in 
 the 1st bay, Creation of Adam ; 2nd, 
 The Fall of Man ; 3rd, The Sacrifice 
 of Noah ; 4th, Abraham and Isaac ; 
 5th, The Vision of Jacob's Ladder ; 
 6th, The Marriage of Boaz and Euth, 
 from whom springs Obed, the father 
 of Jesse. The succeeding bays are 
 by Mr. Gambler Parry :— 7th, Jesse ; 
 8th, David ; 9th, The Annunciation ; 
 10th, The Nativity; 11th, The Adora- 
 tion of the Shepherds and of the 
 Magi; 12th, The Lord in Glory. 
 The figure of Our Lord is connected 
 with the tree of Jesse by its last 
 branches, which break into scrolls 
 and golden fruit at his feet. 
 
 Each subject is surrounded by a 
 border, varying in form, and con- 
 taining a legend. These subjects 
 occupy the central line of the roof. 
 At the sides are figures of patriarchs 
 and prophets, holding scrolls in- 
 scribed with their respective pro- 
 phecies of tiie coming of Our Lord. 
 The central line is ^Q ft. from the 
 floor. The figures are for the most 
 part 9 ft. in size. 
 
 In the present state of the Cathe- 
 dral this richly coloured ceiling 
 seems to press on the white walls, 
 and its effect is not improved by the 
 raw light which streams on it through 
 the clerestory windows. Tinted or 
 stained glass is wanted here, and 
 some colour is called for on the great 
 piers and arches. The nave flooring, 
 inlaid in patterns with marble and 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boiite S. — Ely: Cathedral. 
 
 403 
 
 various-coloured stone, is a great 
 improvement. This was laid down 
 in 1869. 
 
 The vaulting of the nave aisles is 
 carried, as at Norwich and Peter- 
 borough, from wall shafts between 
 the windows, and i^emicircular shafts 
 at the back of the piers. A wall 
 arcade runs beneath the windows of 
 both aisles. In the S. aisle the door, 
 in the fifth bay, counting from the 
 W., marks the termination of the 
 cloisters ; and the wall arcade W. of 
 this door is lower than that E. of it. 
 The door itself was the prior's en- 
 trance, and is much enriched on the 
 exterior (see post). At the eastern 
 end of this aisle is the monks' en- 
 trance (see post). The view from 
 this point down the aisle into the 
 W. transept, the wall arcades of 
 which are alone visible, is a singular 
 one. 
 
 The windows of the N. aisle are 
 Perp. insertions. Those in the S. 
 aisle have nearly all been restored to 
 their original Norman form. Nearly 
 all the windows in both aisles are 
 filled with modern stained glass, by 
 different artists, and of various de- 
 grees of merit. The efiect of so 
 many and of such various styles is 
 by no 2neans agreeable, and resembles 
 far too greatly that of an exhibition. 
 This is felt perhaps more in the 
 transepts than in the nave aisles ; 
 but the result of the mixture at Ely 
 is a strong proof that the stained 
 glass of a great church, or at least 
 of each main division of such a 
 church, should be entrusted to a 
 single artist. In the >S'. aisle, begin- 
 ning at the W. end, the subjects and 
 artists are as follows : — 1. The Crea- 
 tion ; the Expulsion from Eden ; 
 the Offerings of Cain and Abel, 
 Henry and Alfred Gerente. 2. The 
 Ark; the Flood; Noah's Sacrifice; 
 Alfred Gerente. 3. The Annuncia- 
 tion ; the Salutation ; the Nativity, 
 Warrington. 4. Baljel and the Con- 
 fusion of Tongues, Howes. 5. Abra- 
 
 ham with the'Angels ; Expulsion of 
 Hagar; Blessing of Jacob, Gihhs. 
 6. Passover ; Death of First-born ; 
 Departure of Israelites, Howes. 7. 
 Fall of Jericho ; Passage of Jordan ; 
 Eeturn of Spies, Wailes. 8. The 
 Story of Samson, Alfred Gerente. 
 
 9. The Story of Venerable Bede, 
 Wailes. 10. David anointed; Play- 
 ing before Saul ; Reproved by Na- 
 than, Hardman. 11. Judgment of 
 Solomon ; Building of Temple ; Visit 
 of Queen of Sheba, Moore. 
 
 In the N. aisle the subjects are 
 (beginning W.) : — 1. History of Adam 
 and Eve, Cott Ingham. 2. Lot, Preedy. 
 3. History of Abraham, Preedy. 4. 
 Gideon; Flight of the Midianites, 
 Ward. 5. Story of Samuel, Ward 
 and Nixon. 6. David and the Min- 
 strels, Olifhant, from designs by 
 -Z>//ce, B.A. 7. History of Elijah, 
 Wailes. 8. Also History of Elijah, 
 Wailes. 9. History of Elisha, Wailes. 
 
 10. History of Hezekiah, Wailes. 
 
 11. History of Jonah, Edgland. 12. 
 History of Daniel, Lusson, of Paris. 
 
 Many of these windows were gifts 
 of the artists; others — also gifts — 
 are memorials of difierent persons 
 connected with Ely and the Cathe- 
 dral. 
 
 In the N. aisle — the last bay of 
 which was altered apparently when 
 the tower piers were strengthened, 
 a pointed arch of Per}), character 
 having been built within the origi- 
 nal Norm, arch of the nave — is a 
 pedestal supporting the fragment 
 of a stone cross, which in all pro- 
 bability is a relic of the age of St. 
 Etheldreda. It long served as a 
 horse block at Haddenham, in the 
 Isle of Ely (see post, Excurs.), and 
 was removed to its present position 
 by the care of Benthain, the historian 
 of the monastery. On the pedestal 
 is the inscription in Eoman capitals, 
 " Lucem tuam Ovino da Deus, et 
 requiem. Amen." " Ovini," or 
 " Wiui," was, as Bede tells us (H. E. 
 iv. 3), the name of the steward and 
 
404 
 
 Boiite 3. — Ely : Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 principal " house-thegn " of Ethel- 
 dreda, whom he had accompanied 
 from E, A!i<!;lia about the year 652, 
 on her first marriage with Tondberct, 
 "prince" of the S. Gyrvians. Win- 
 ford, a manor near Huddenliam, may 
 not impossibly retain the name of 
 Wini, who embraced the monastic 
 life under St. Chad, at Lichfieki. 
 The cross may perhaps liave been 
 erected by Wini liimself, on land 
 granted him by Etheldreda, or by 
 Tondberct. At any rate, the almost 
 pure Eoman lettering may very well 
 be of his time. 
 
 The great or principal transepts 
 are the only portions of the ch. 
 which (certainly) contain any re- 
 mains of the original Norm, work 
 of Abbot Simeon and his successor. 
 . Both transepts, which are three bays 
 deep, have E. and W. aisles, and the 
 lower story in both is early Norm. 
 (1082-1107). The arches of this 
 story differ from those of the nave 
 in having plain square-edged soffetes, 
 without mouldings. In both transepts 
 the capitals of the piers on the E. 
 side are somewhat more enriched 
 than those opposite. The bays in 
 this eastern aisle of the N. transej^t 
 have been divided by walls into 
 separate chapels, which now serve as 
 vestries. On the walls of the central 
 chapel considerable remains of Norm, 
 painting may still be seen. At the 
 N.E. angle is the entrance to the 
 Lady Chapel (see post). The tri- 
 forium and clerestory on the E. and 
 W. sides are late Norm., and pre- 
 cisely resemble those of the nave. 
 
 The N. and S. ends of the two 
 transepts differ. Both have an arcade 
 of circular arches, slightly projecting 
 from the wall, and forming a kind of 
 gallery or ti^rminal aisle, which re- 
 sembles, though on a different scale, 
 the N. and S. aisles of the Winchester 
 transepts, the work of Bp. Walkelin, 
 brother of Simeon. These arcades, 
 fis has been proved by foundations 
 
 discovered beneath the present floor, 
 once projected as far as the first pier 
 arch ; and the change seems to have 
 been made in the Perp. period, when 
 the transept walls were raised, and 
 the present wooden roof added. In 
 the >S'. transept the arcade is more 
 regular and open, and the wall above 
 it is lined with a blank arcade of 
 intersecting arches. Above again 
 are the round-headed windows of 
 the Norm, triforium and clerestorj^ 
 surmounted by a late Perp. window 
 of seven lights, inserted when the 
 wall was raised. In the N. transept 
 the Norm, triforium remains, but 
 the clerestory above it was removed, 
 and two large Perp. windows were 
 in -erted. 
 
 Both aisles of the S. transept are 
 enclosed. The arches of the. E. 
 aisle are entirely walled up, and it 
 now serves as the Chapter Library. 
 On these arches the Norm, scroll- 
 work has been restored in modern 
 colours. The W. aisle, which serves 
 as a vestry, is divided halfway up 
 by a low wall, lined with an in- 
 tersecting Norm, arcade, in which is 
 a carved oak door, with Bp. Alcock's 
 devices, brought to Ely from Land- 
 beach, and no doubt part of the 
 woodwork removed from the Chaj^el 
 of Jesus College, Cambridge, at the 
 close of the last century. The greater 
 part of this woodwork found its way 
 from Cambridge to Landbeach, and 
 this door was given to the Cathedral 
 by the Rev. H. Fardell. The Norm, 
 colouring has been restored to the 
 vault in this aisle with good effect. 
 
 The transept roofs (Perp.) are of 
 wood, and somewhat plain examples 
 of the hammer-beam. The project- 
 ing brackets have figures of angels, 
 with opened wings. The whole of 
 tlie roofs have been repainted, the 
 angel brackets, the main beams, and 
 the bosses, in red, gold, and green ; 
 the boarding of the roof itself in a 
 very effective pattern of black and 
 white. 
 
CAMBRIDaE. 
 
 Boute o. — Ell/: Cathedral 
 
 405 
 
 The windows of the transepts have [ 
 been filled with stained glass, by 
 various artists, the want of uni- 1 
 formity in which is here specially j 
 Tinpleasaiit. In tlie N. transept 
 the subjects are: — N. end, the two 
 lower tiers, the History of St. 
 Paul ; the two lower, and the western 
 in the second tier, by Wailes ; the 
 eastern, in second tier, by the Rev. 
 A. Moore. The windows above, con- 
 taining figures from the New Testa- 
 ment History, are by Ward and 
 Hughes. In the W. aisle : — the Para- 
 bles of our Lord : the Good Samaritan, 
 Lusson ; the Prodigal Son, A. Moore. 
 In tlie E. aisle — two very excellent 
 windows — subjects from the History 
 of our Lord, by Clayton and Bell. 
 In the S. transept tlie subjects are : — 
 S. end, windows of lower tier. History 
 of Joseph, History of Moses, by Henry 
 Gerente. Second tier — E. window 
 — History of Abraham, Henry and 
 Alfred Gerente. W. window : — His- 
 tory of Jacob, Alfred Gerente. The 
 Perp. window above has six figures 
 of Patriarchs, with our Lord in the 
 centre, by Howe, from designs by 
 Preedy. W. aisle (middle window) : 
 — subject from the book of Jeremiah, 
 Lusson; N. window by a French 
 artist. 
 
 The attention of the visitor will, 
 from the first, have been withdrawn 
 with difficulty from the central octa- 
 cjon, '' perliaps the most beautiful 
 and original design to be found in 
 the whole range of Gothic architec- 
 ture." 
 
 The first impression here is almost 
 bewildering, so great is the mass of 
 details pressing for notice, so varied 
 and unusual the many lines and 
 levels of piers, windows, and roofs, 
 all glowing with colour, and inter- 
 sected by the most graceful and 
 delicate tracery. There is, perhaps, 
 no architectural view in Europe 
 more striking — when seen under a 
 good efiect of light, on which all 
 such views so greatly depend — as 
 
 that across the octagon of Ely, from 
 the angle of the nave aisles. 
 
 The Norm, tower, erected by Abbot 
 Simeon, had long been threatening 
 ruin, and tlie monks had not ven- 
 tured for some time to sing their 
 offices in the choir, when, on the eve 
 of St. Ermeniia (Feb. 12, 1321,0. S), 
 as the brethren were returning to 
 their dormitory after attending ma- 
 tins in St. Catherine's chapel, the 
 tower fell, "with such a shook, and 
 so great a tumult that it was thought 
 an earthquake had taken place." No 
 one was hurt, however, and the 
 chronicler of Ely remarks, as an 
 especial proof of the divine protec- 
 tion, that the shrines of the three 
 sainted abbesses, Etheldreda, Sex- 
 burga, and Withburga, which stood at 
 the eastern end of the choir, escaped 
 without the slightest injury. Under 
 the care of the sacrist, Alan of Wal- 
 singfiam, the ruins were cleared away, 
 and the work of the octagon begun. 
 This was completed, as high as the 
 vaulting, in 1328. The vault and 
 lantern were then commenced; but 
 these are entirely of wood, and as it 
 was difficult to find timber of sufficient 
 strength, the work advanced more 
 slowly. It was finished in 1342. The 
 cost of the entire structure was 
 2,400/. 6s. lid — a sum of which it 
 is difficult to estimate the propor- 
 tional value, but which was perhaps 
 equal to about 60,000/. of our money. 
 
 Alan of Walsiugham alone, " of all 
 the architects of Northern Europe, 
 seems to have conceived the idea 
 of getting rid of what, in fact, was 
 the bathos of the style — the narrow, 
 tall opening of the central tower, 
 which, though possessing exaggerated 
 height, gave neither space nor dig- 
 nity to the principal feature. Ac- 
 cordingly, he took for his base the 
 whole breadth of the church, N. and 
 S., including the aisles, by that of 
 the transepts, with their aisles, in the 
 opposite direction. Then, cutting off 
 the angles of this large square, he 
 
406 
 
 Moute 3. — My : Catliedral. 
 
 Sect. iV. 
 
 obtained an octagon more than three ' 
 times as large as the square upon 
 which the central tower would have 
 stood by the usual Enc^lish arrange- 
 ment." — Fergusson. Tlie octagon is 
 thus formed by four larger and four 
 smaller arches ; the larger open to 
 the nave, choir, and transepts ; tlie 
 smaller to the aisles of all three. At 
 the pier angles are groups of slender 
 shafts, from which springs a ribbed 
 vaulting of wood. This supports the 
 lantern, likewise octagonal in shape, 
 but set in such a manner as to have 
 its angles opposite the faces of the 
 stone octagon below ; and consisting 
 of a light, ojien arcade (the panels 
 which once filled in this arcade have 
 been removed), with 8 windows 
 above, small shafts at the angles 
 of which support a richly groined 
 and bossed roof. The entire roof, 
 above the piers of the octagon, forms 
 " the only Gothic dome in existence, 
 though Italian architects had done 
 the same thing, and the method 
 was in common use with the Byzan- 
 tines." — Fergusson. (The exact place 
 of Alan of Walsingham's interment 
 is unknown ; but great builders were 
 generally buried in the portion of 
 the church whicli they had them- 
 selves constructed; and it would 
 seem, from his epitaph, that Alan 
 was burii'd beneath the lantern, 
 "ante choruni." His epitaph ran 
 partly : — 
 
 " Flos operatorum, dum vixit corpore sanus, 
 Hie jacet ante chorum Prior en tumulatus, 
 Alanus. 
 ****** 
 
 Pro veteri turre, quaj quadam nocte cadebat, 
 Hauc lurrim proprle quarn cernitis hie facie- 
 
 bat. 
 Et plures a^des quia fecerat ipse I'rioris, 
 Detiir ei sedes cceli, pro fine laboris." 
 
 He died, apparently, in the year 
 1364.) 
 
 The great eastern arch of the 
 octagon rises above the vault of the 
 clioir, the space between which and 
 the arch is filled with open tracery. 
 Above the crown of each of the great 
 
 arches, between it and the vaulting, 
 is a trefoil, containing the seated 
 figure of a saint. 
 
 The details of the four smaller 
 sides of the octagon are admii-able, 
 and demand especial notice. The 
 hood-mouldings of the'; principal 
 arches rest on sculptured heads — of 
 which those N.E. probably repre- 
 sent Edward III. and his queen 
 Philippa, during whose reign the 
 work was completed ; those S.E., 
 Bishop Hotham and Prior Craudene, 
 who presided over the see and the 
 monastery at the time ; and those 
 N.W., Alan of Walsingham, the 
 sacrist and architect, and his master 
 of the works. The heads on the 
 S.W. arch are too much shattered to 
 be identified. In the angle of each 
 pier is a projecting niche, once con- 
 taining a statue. These niches rise 
 from large brackets, supported by a 
 group of slender shafts, the capitals 
 of which are sculptured with the 
 story of St. Etheldreda (see jjost). 
 The wall above contains three 
 shallow but very graceful niches, 
 trefoil-headed ; each niche having in 
 it a bracket enriched with foliage. 
 On these brackets modern (seated) 
 figures of the Twelve Apostles are 
 (1870) in course of being placed. 
 Some ancient carved heads in the 
 niches, and in the corbel table above, 
 should be noticed. Above, again, is 
 a whidow of four lights, the arrange- 
 ment of which is especially beautirtd 
 and ingenious. The window itself 
 fills the whole bay of the vault, and 
 is, necessarily, sharp - pointed and 
 narrowed toward the top. At the 
 height of the four great octagon 
 arches, however, an inner arch is 
 thrown across, the space between 
 which and the crown of the vault is 
 filled with open tracery, correspond- 
 ing to the blind tracery which covers 
 the wall above the greater arches. 
 A passage along the base of these 
 windows communicates with the 
 clerestories of nave and choir. 
 
 Three of these windows have been 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Itoute 3. — Ely : Catliedrat. 
 
 407 
 
 filled with stained glass by Wailes. [ 
 Those S.E. and N.E. reiDrescnt the 
 principal persons belonging to the 
 story of St. Etheldreda. TJiat S.W. 
 displays Edward III., Queen Phi- : 
 lippa, Bishop Hothaiu, and Prior ; 
 Craudene — in whose time the octa- 1 
 gon was constructed ; and Queen 
 Victoria, the Prince Consort (in his \ 
 robes as chancellor of tlie University . 
 of Cambridge), Dr. Turton, the late ' 
 bishop, and Dr. Peacock, the late ! 
 dean of Ely, who represent its modern ! 
 restoration. Modern figures and | 
 modern costume are by no means j 
 insurmountable difficulties for repre- j 
 sentations in stained glass ; but it \ 
 can hardly be said that they have 
 been successfully treated in this 
 window. 
 
 The story of St. Etheldreda has 
 already been briefly told. The sub- 
 jects of the sculptures below the 
 niches in the octagon, beginning 
 from the N.W. arch, are as follows : 
 — 1. The marriage of Etheldreda 
 with Egfrid of Northumbria. The 
 figures supporting Etheldreda are 
 aj^parentiy those of her uncle, Ethel- 
 wold, king of East Anglia, and her 
 elder sister, Sexburga, afterwards 
 abbess of Ely. Her father and 
 ] anther were dead at the time of 
 this second marriage. Wilfrid, the 
 famous bishop of Northumbria, is 
 celebrating the marriage. The 
 bishop's cross and asperaorium, or 
 lioly water sprinkler, are borne by 
 attendant monks. 2. The dedication 
 of Etheldreda in the convent at Col- 
 dinghame. The abbess, St. Ebba, 
 aunt of King Egfrid, is supporting 
 her veil. Bishop Wilfrid is blessing 
 Etheldreda, who kneels before an 
 altar, on which is her crown. At the 
 back of the abbess are attendant 
 nuns, one of whom carries her pas- 
 toral stafl". 3. The miracle at Colde- 
 burch's Head. Wlien Etheldreda 
 fled from Coldinghame, she took 
 with her two nuns — Sevenna and 
 Severa — and on her way climbed a 
 
 hill, named Coldeburch's Head, on 
 which she was seen by Egbert, who 
 was pursuing her. A miracle, says 
 the legend, was wrought in her 
 favour. The sea swept inland, and 
 surrounded the hill, on which the 
 three remained for seven days, until 
 Egbert, in despair, left them. The 
 three are here seen on tljc hill; 
 Egbert and his men are riding round 
 it in amazement. 4. St. Ethel- 
 dreda's staff bursts into leaf. This 
 also occurred during her flight. She 
 one day slept by the wayside, having 
 fixed her staff in the ground at her 
 head. On waking she found it had 
 l)urst into branches and leaves ; and 
 it became an ash, the " greatest tree 
 in all that country," Tlic sculptor 
 has represented a medlar rather than 
 an ash, the mystic tree of the old 
 Saxons. 5. The installation of 
 Etheldreda by St. Wilfrid as Abbess 
 of Ely. Kemark the distinction 
 between the crozier and the pastoral 
 staff, one tiu-ned towards the bearer, 
 the other outward. 6. The death 
 and "chesting" of St. Etheldreda. 
 The first division represents the last 
 moments of the saint, who supports 
 her pastoral staff in one hand, whilst 
 Huna, her priest, lifts the consecrated 
 host at her side. In the second divi- 
 sion she is placed in her coffin, which 
 Bishop Wilfrid is blessing. Weeping 
 nuns fill the background. 7. The 
 translation of St. Etheldreda. Her 
 sister, the abbess Sexburga, is lifting 
 the body, which is found uncor- 
 rupted and flexible. Bishop Wil- 
 frid and Kinifrid, the physician, are 
 describing the event to three royal 
 personages. 8. Ymma, a youth, 
 who had been one of Etheldreda's 
 house thcgns, having been despe- 
 rately wounded in a battle, and im- 
 prisoned, is loosed from his fetters 
 by the masses of his brother Tunna, 
 and by the intercession of St. Ethel- 
 dreda. The abbesses Sexburga and 
 Withburga also appear, and two 
 angels attend them. 
 The costume of all these figures, it 
 
408 
 
 l^oute 3. — Ely : Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 need hardly be said, is that of the 
 reign of Edward III. The expres- 
 sions and attitudes are good and 
 characteristic; but the work is 
 scarcely so refined or so imaginative 
 as tliat of the earlier sculptures at 
 Wells and Salisbury. 
 
 The vaulting of tlie octagon, imme- 
 diately above the windows, is to I'C 
 diapered in colour, the designs not 
 being yet (1870) determined on. The 
 whole of the lantern (see post. Ex- 
 terior), has been restored, as a memo- 
 rial of Dean Peacock, to whom is 
 mainly owing the restoraliou of the 
 Cathedral from a condition of com- 
 parative neglect, to much of its 
 ancient splendour. In spite of some 
 defects, tlie renovation of the octa- 
 gon, so far as it has yet gone, is very 
 satisfactory. The eye rests con- 
 tentedly on the rich glass of tlie 
 windows, and on the golden diapers 
 of roof and corbels, set forth and 
 relieved as they are by the neutral 
 tints of the oak choir-screen and 
 stalls, the grey stone of the walls, 
 and tlie dark marble of the Purbeck 
 shafts and capitals. 
 
 The architectural views from the 
 octagon are superb. That down the 
 nave should be especially noticed, for 
 the grandeur produced by its great 
 length, extending beyond the tower 
 into the W. porch. 
 
 As in Norwich Cathedral, and in 
 many other conventual churches, 
 the choir of the monks at Ely ex- 
 tended beyond the central tower, 
 and, after that had fallen, beyond 
 the octagon, to the second pier of the 
 nave. So it continued until 1770, 
 when it was removed to the six 
 eastern bays of the cathedral. At the 
 commencement of the present restor- 
 ation the arrangement of the choir 
 was again altered ; and it now begins 
 at the eastern arch of the octagon, 
 and embraces seven bays ; the two 
 easternmost, beyond them, forming 
 the retro-choir. 
 
 The choir is divided from the 
 
 octagon by a very beautiful oaken 
 screen, with gates of brass. This is 
 entirely modern, and designed by 
 Mr. G. G. Scott. An excellent 
 effect is produced by the double 
 planes of tracery in the uj^per divi- 
 sions of the screen ; the cresting of 
 which, with its coronals of leafage, 
 should be especially remarked. Lofty 
 pinnacles of tabernacle work rise on 
 either side, above the stalls of the 
 bishop and dean. The screen, not- 
 withstanding its great elaboration, 
 is sufficiently light and open to per- 
 mit the use of the octagon as well as 
 of the choir during service. The 
 jniJpit — modern, and designed by 
 Scott — is placed in the octagon, on 
 the N. side of the screen. It is of 
 Lincolnshire stone and Purbeck 
 marble. The figures are those of 
 St. Peter and St. Paul. The pulpit 
 it.-elf is an open arcade, a stair 
 leading to it of marble, with an iron 
 hand-rail, gilt and coloured. 
 
 The restoration of the Choir is 
 nearly complete; and the first im- 
 pression on entering it will not 
 readily be forgotten. Of the seven 
 bays of which it consists, the four 
 easternmost (as well as the two be- 
 yond, which form the retro -choir) 
 are the work of Bishop Hugh de 
 Norwold (1229-1254). His work 
 embraced the whole of the choir, 
 including the three western bays 
 destroyed by the fall of the tower. 
 (It was seventeen years in building, 
 and cost, according to the Historia 
 EUemis (Ang. Sac. i. p. 636), 5,040L 
 18s. Scl., a sum equalling about 
 120,O30L at present.) The three 
 wcst3rn bays, in which the stalls are 
 placed, were commenced in 1338, the 
 year after the death of Bishop 
 Hotham, who left money towards the 
 work ; and were completed during 
 the episcopate of Thomas de Lisle 
 ( 1 315-1362). The division^ between 
 the two portions is very sharply 
 marked, not only by the difference 
 of style, but by an ascent of two 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Itoiite 3. — My : Cathedral. 
 
 409 
 
 steps, and by broad shafts of stone 
 which rise to the roof, and are, in 
 fact, the original Norman shafts 
 which stood at tlie turn of the apse, 
 terminating the choir before it was 
 rebuilt by Bishop Hugh. (The 
 foundations of this apse remain, and 
 have been traced close below tiie 
 pavement of the present choir.) It 
 was found possible to retain them in 
 the walls of the new choir ; and 
 their capitals, which are E, Eng., 
 were added at the same time. 
 
 The unbroken roof, extending 
 quite to the eastern end, resulted 
 from the unusual position of the 
 Lady Chapel (see post). The height 
 (70 feet) and the width (35 feet 
 within the piers) of the choir are 
 also somewhat unusual. 
 
 The eastern portion of the choir — 
 the E. Eng. work of Bishop Hugh de 
 Norvvold — should be first examined. 
 The piers are of Purbeck marble, 
 octangular, with attached ringed 
 shafts, the capitals of which are 
 enriched with leafage of late E. Eng. 
 character. Knots of similar foliage 
 are placed between the bases of the 
 shafts. The arch mouldings have 
 the dog-tooth ornament. At the 
 intersections are bosses of foliage, 
 and there are large open trefoils in 
 the spandrels. Long corbels of leaf- 
 age, extending to the bosses at the 
 intersections of the arches, carry the 
 vaulting shafts, whicli are in groups 
 of three, ringed at the springing of 
 the triforium arches (in a line with 
 the capitals of the triforium shafts), 
 and rising to the level of the clere- 
 story, where they terminate in rich 
 capitals of leafage. Corbels, shafts, 
 and capitals are of Purbeck marble. 
 
 The triforium arches, above the 
 piers, greatly resemble those below 
 in mouldings and ornaments ; and 
 are subdivided by a central group of 
 shafts. In the tympanum above 
 is an open quatrefoil, with bunches 
 of leafage on either side. Pointed 
 
 [Essex^i &C.'] 
 
 quatrefoils also appear in the span- 
 drels. The triforium extends back- 
 wards over the choir aisles. Early 
 in the 14th centy. — to all appearance 
 shortly before the fall of the tower 
 — the exterior walls were raised, and 
 large windows inserted with deco- 
 rated tracery. In the two western- 
 most bays of Bishop Hugh's work, 
 however, the triforium was removed 
 altogether, and the inner arches 
 transformed into windows, of the 
 same character as those of the tri- 
 forium eastward. It is probable that 
 the orijj;inal arrangement (which 
 may still be seen outside the Cathe- 
 dral, S., where Bishop Hugh's ex- 
 terior walls and window openings 
 remain — see post) was found to 
 admit too little light upon St. Etliel- 
 dreda's shrine, which stood imme- 
 diately between these two bays. 
 
 The clerestory windows are trip- 
 lets, set flush with the outer wall. 
 An inner, open, arcade rises above 
 the triforium, thus forming a gallery. 
 The arches towards the choir are 
 supported by shafts of Purbeck. The 
 roof of this E. Eng. portion of the 
 cathedral is simply groined. The 
 vaulting ribs are arranged in groups 
 of seven. The bosses at the inter- 
 sections are carved in foliage, with 
 the exception of two towards the 
 W., which represent a bishoi^ seated, 
 with crozier and mitre, and the coro- 
 nation of the Virgin. 
 
 The foliage of all Bishop Hugh's 
 work deserves careful examination. 
 The arrangement in the corbels of 
 the vaulting shafts varies, and should 
 1)6 remarked. The bunches in the 
 tympana of the triforium approach 
 to a decided imitation of nature, and 
 should be compared with the foliage 
 in Walsingham's work below, where 
 the naturalism is fully developed. 
 The juxtaposition of the two works 
 is throughout very instructive, and 
 the visitor should proceed at once to 
 examine the three western bays of 
 the choir, before turning to the 
 
410 
 
 Boiite 3. — Elij : Catliedral. 
 
 Sect. lY. 
 
 modern rcrcdos, or to tlic various 
 monuments, which will be after- 
 wards noticed. 
 
 The three western hays were com- 
 pleted, as has been already men- 
 tioned, between the j^ears 1345 and 
 1362. The arrangement on either 
 side is precisely that of Bishop 
 Hugh's work ; but the superior 
 beauty will at once be recognised. 
 The lower arches, and those of the 
 triforium, have square bosses of 
 foliage attached to their mouldings 
 in a very striking manner. (Com- 
 pare these with the dog-tooth used 
 in the earlier work.) The trefoils in 
 the spandrels difter in form from 
 Bishop Hugh's ; and the long cor- 
 bels are carved with natural oak 
 leaves. A low open parapet runs 
 along at the base of the triforium 
 and clerestory; which latter is set 
 back within an inner arch, opening 
 to the choir, as in Bishop Hugh's 
 work ; but this arch is foiled, and 
 extends over the whole space. The 
 tracery of the triforium, and of the 
 clerestory windows, is exquisitely 
 rich and graceful. The lierne vault- 
 ing of the roof should be compared 
 with the earlier and simpler vault 
 E. of it. Its bosses have been gilt, 
 and the ribs coloured red and green. 
 The corbels of the vaulting shafts, 
 which are of "clunch" stone, are 
 blue, with white and gold tipped 
 leafage ; the trefoils in the spandrels 
 deej) blue, powdered with golden 
 stars. The roofs of the triforium, 
 seen through its arches, are coloured 
 in patterns of black, white, and red. 
 All the windows in the clerestory, 
 on either side, have been tilled 
 with stained glass, by Wailes, illus- 
 trating (on the N. side) the " Noble 
 Army of Martyrs," and (on the S.) 
 the "Holy Church throughout the 
 World," figures of great Doctors and 
 Teachers. 
 
 The arms of the see (gules, 3 
 ducal coronets, or) and of Bishop 
 Hotham, the principal contributor 
 
 toward the work, are placed on 
 the spandrels of the first bay, on the 
 S. side. A figure of St. Etheldreda 
 may possibly have stood beneath the 
 canopy which still remains between 
 the lu'st and second bays on the same 
 side. 
 
 It is probable that these three 
 western bays form the best example 
 of the pure Dec. period to be 
 found in England ; and we may 
 safely adopt Mr, Fergusson's asser- 
 tion, that their details " are equal to 
 anything in Europe for elegance and 
 appropriateness." 
 
 The organ, which has been en- 
 tirely rebuilt by Hill, occupies a posi- 
 tion difiering from that of any other 
 in England, and projects from the 
 triforium of the third bay on the 
 N. side. Its hanging case — a superb 
 mass of carving, coloured and gilt, 
 but with much of the oak work 
 judiciously left in its natural tint, is 
 entirely modern, and deserves espe- 
 cial notice. 
 
 The stalls extend throughout this 
 portion of the choir. All those at 
 the back formed part of the original 
 fittings, and have been carefully 
 restored. They are constructed in 
 two stages, the lower of which is 
 recessed ; and from the front rises a 
 series of panels, with overhanging 
 canopies. These panels are filled 
 with modern sculpture in wood ; the 
 S. side with subjects from the Old 
 Testament, the N. side from the 
 New. The subjects are : — (S.) Adam 
 and Eve in Paradise; the Fall of 
 Man ; the Expulsion from Paradise ; 
 Adam and Eve at work ; Cain 
 killing Abel; Noah building the 
 Ark; the Deluge; the Sacrifice of 
 Noah ; Promise to Abraham ; Isaac 
 carrying the Wood ; Abraham's Sac- 
 rifice ; Isaac blessing Jacob ; Jacob's 
 Dream ; Joseph sold by his Bretlu'en; 
 the Burning Bush ; the Passover ; 
 Moses striking the Kock ; Moses 
 lifting the Serpent ; Eeturn of the 
 Spies ; David anointed by Samuel ; 
 Queen of Sheba visiting Solomon; 
 
Cambridge. Houte 3. — Ely : Cathedral. 
 
 411 
 
 Jonah : Elijah's ascent to Heaven. 
 (iV. side) : — The Nativity ; Presen- 
 tation in Temple; Adoration of 
 Magi ; Murder of Innocents ; Flight 
 into Egypt ; Jesus disputing with 
 the Doctors ; tlie Baptism ; the 
 Temptation ; Miracle at Cana ; 
 Transfiguration ; Mary Anointing 
 the feet of Our Lord ; the Betrayal ; 
 Our Lord hefore Caiaphas; Jesus 
 Mocked ; Pilate Washing his Hands ; 
 Jesus Scourged; " Behold the Man ; " 
 Crucifixion; Entombment; Eesun-ec- 
 tion ; Our Lord at Emmaus ; the 
 Incredulity of St. Thomas ; the 
 Ascension. "With the exception of 
 the Nativity, which is by Philip^ all 
 these sculptures are the work of M. 
 Aheloos, of Louvain. All, but espe- 
 cially those on the S. side, are excel- 
 lent in expression and design. The 
 details in other portions of these 
 upper stalls, the exquisite leafage, 
 the designs in the spandrels, and the 
 figures at the foils of the canopies, 
 deserve the most careful notice. The 
 colour of the whole is unusually 
 pleasing. 
 
 The sub-stalls are new. Their 
 finials display angels holding mu- 
 sical instruments ; and at their ends, 
 in the upper range, is a series 
 of small figures, representing the 
 builders of the various portions of 
 the Cathedral, from St. Etheldreda, 
 who holds the model of a Saxon 
 church, to Bishop Alcock, who ex- 
 hibits his chapel. All were designed 
 by Mr. J. Philip, and are not un- 
 worthy of the ancient work with 
 which they are associated. 
 
 On the floor is a memorial hrass 
 for Bishop Hotliam, entirely new ; 
 and that of Prior Craudene (or 
 Crowden ; died 1.341), which has been 
 restored. This brass has a floriated 
 cross, with a small figure of the prior 
 at the foot. The inscription runs : — 
 
 " Hanc aram decorat de Craudene tumba 
 Joliannis 
 Qui fuit hie Prior, ad bona pluria, pluribus 
 
 annls, 
 Presulis hunc sedes elegit pontificari, 
 Presulis ante pedes ideo meruit tumulari." 
 
 On the death of Bishop Hotham, Prior 
 Craudene was unanimously elected 
 by the monks as his successor. But 
 his election was annulled by the 
 Pope, who appointed Simon de Mon- 
 tacute. Prior Craudene was buried 
 at the feet of Bishoj) Hotham. 
 
 We may now return to the eastern 
 portion of the choir, where the altar 
 and its reredos first claim attention. 
 The altar is raised on five low steps, 
 the tiles and inlaid marble of which 
 deserve notice. The cloth in which 
 the altar is vested, embroidered by 
 the Misses Blencowe, is one of the 
 best modern works of the kind. In 
 the centre is a figure of the Saviour. 
 The inscription runs, — '' Agnus Dei 
 qui tollis peccata mundi dona nobis 
 pacem. Agnus Dei miserere nobis." 
 
 The altar-screen, or reredos, de- 
 signed by Mr. G. G. Scott, was the 
 gift of John Dunn Gardner, Esq., of 
 Chatteris, in Cambridgeshire, as a 
 memorial to his first wife. Imme- 
 diately over the altar are five com- 
 partments filled with sculpture, 
 above which rises a mass of rich 
 tabernacle work. The sculptures, 
 which are in alabaster, represent — 
 Christ's Entry into Jerusalem ; 
 Washing the Disciples' Feet; the 
 Last Supper ; the Agony in the 
 Garden ; Bearing the Cross. Shafts 
 of alabaster, round which a spiral 
 belt is twisted, inlaid with agates 
 and crystals on a gold ground, divide 
 these compartments, and support the 
 arches above. The tabernacle work 
 is crowded with figures of angels, 
 bearing the instruments of the 
 Passion, and with medallion heads 
 in relief. Those on the N. repre- 
 sent Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel, and 
 Daniel ; those S. the four l5octors of 
 the Latin Church — Jerome, Am- 
 brose, Augustine, and Gregory. Each 
 compartment terminates in a gable, 
 of which that in the centre is highest. 
 In this gable is the Savioui', with 
 Moses and Elias on eitlier side. 
 Above is a medallion of the Aunuu- 
 
 t2 
 
412 
 
 HoutB 3. — Ely : Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 ciatinu ; and, on the highest point, a 
 figure of Our Lord in majesty. On 
 the side gables are figures of the four 
 Evangelists, with their emblems on 
 the crockets. In trefoils, set in the 
 gables, are projecting busts; those 
 N. representing Mary Magdalene, 
 and Mary the mother of James; 
 those S., St. John the Baptist, and 
 St. John the Divine. On spiral 
 pillars, between the gables, are 
 figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity, 
 N. ; and of Justice, Prudence, and 
 Fortitude, S. All the details of this 
 very important work of modern art — 
 in which the spirit, rather than the 
 letter, of ancient examples has been 
 followed — deserve tlie most careful 
 observation. Much gold and colour 
 have been applied to the figures, and 
 to other portions of the sculpture, 
 under the direction of Mr. Hudson. 
 
 Two very handsome and lofty 
 stands, supporting coronals for gas, 
 are placed in the eastern portion of 
 the choir, and were presented by 
 Dean Goodwin, before his elevation 
 to the see of Carlisle. They are by 
 Shidmore. The brass lectern in the 
 choir is a memorial of the late Mr. le 
 Strange. 
 
 Beginning on the >S'. side of the 
 choir, the first monument westward is 
 that of Bishop Willimn of Louth, 
 (De Luda; 1290-1298. He was 
 treasurer of Edward I.'s wardrobe; 
 and is called, by T. Wikes, a con- 
 temporary historian, " vir magnificus, 
 et eminent is scientise." In 129G he 
 was one of the commissioners ap- 
 pointed to settle the conditions of a 
 truce between France and England.) 
 The design is fine and unusual. It 
 consists of a lofty central arch, with 
 smaller openings at the sides. The 
 arches are crowned with gables, 
 much enriched, and terminating in 
 pinnacles and finials of leafage. On 
 the floor, beneath the central canopy, 
 is a slab, with the figure of a bishop, 
 from which the brass has disap- 
 jjeared. In the bases of the E. and 
 
 W. arches arc figures of the four 
 Evangelists : in the tympanum of 
 the central gable is the Saviour in 
 majesty. This monument, on the N. 
 side, has been gorgeously restored in 
 colour and mosaics, a peculiar green 
 having been used with advantage. 
 
 The adjoining monument, E., is 
 that of Bishoj) Barnet (1366-1373; 
 translated, by papal provision, from 
 Bath to Ely, when very old and 
 infirm). There are good quatre- 
 foils at the sides. The brass has 
 been destroyed. The next tumb is 
 that of John Tiptoft, Earl of Wor- 
 cester, the most accomplished noble- 
 man of his time, and one of the 
 five Englishmen mentioned by Le- 
 land (another was William Gray, 
 Bishop of Ely) who travelled to 
 Italy in order to become disciples of 
 the younger Guarini, at Ferrara. 
 The earl, who had been Edward 
 IV.'s Constable of England, was an 
 ! ardent Yorkist; and, after the suc- 
 I cess of Warwick's expedition in 
 I 1470, he was found concealed in a» 
 tree in the forest of Weylmdge, was 
 tried before the Earl of Oxford, be- 
 headed, and buried in the Tower. 
 His two wives, whose effigies rest on 
 either side of the earl's, were alone 
 buried at Ely. The monument is 
 a fine example of late Perp. The 
 I pendants between the arches are 
 ! noticeable ; as are tlie patterns of 
 I leafage, for the most part ivy and 
 oak. The earl is in armour, but 
 I wears a coronet. 
 
 In the last bay on this side has 
 been placed the tomb of Bishop 
 Hotliam. (1316-1337. He was Chan- 
 cellor of the Exchequer at the time 
 of his election ; afterwards became 
 Lord Chancellor ; was present at the 
 fight of Myton- upon -Swale, Oct. 
 1319 ; afterwards arranged a truce 
 with the Scots; and, in 1323, was 
 Edward II.'s commissioner for 
 settling the aflairs of Gascony. He 
 joined Queen Isabella on lier landing 
 at Orwell, in 1326. Bishop Hotham 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boute 3. — My : Cathedral. 
 
 413 
 
 was one of the most distinguished 
 benefactors of liis ehmch. He bought 
 much land for the see, and left 
 money for the rebuilding of the 
 three western bays of the clioir, 
 which had been ruined by the f:\ll of 
 the tower. The Lady Chapel was 
 begun, and the lower part of the 
 octagon finished, during his episco- 
 pate.) Bishop Hotham was buried 
 behind the altar of the choir (" ad 
 partem orientalem altar is in choro, 
 versus magnum altare"), between 
 that and the high altar, at the ex- 
 treme E. end of the cathedral. His 
 monument is now in two parts — the 
 tomb, now noticed ; and the upper 
 part, or so-called " shrine," which 
 stands on the opposite side of the 
 choir. The tomb has, in front, a 
 graceful arcade. The six iron rings 
 inserted in the u|)per slab of Pur- 
 beck possibly supported the canopy 
 of an effigy. The shrine consists of 
 two stories, the lower of which has 
 open arches; the upper is enclosed. 
 At the intersections of the upj^er 
 arches are monastic heads ; and, in 
 front, those of a king and queen. 
 The work is very good, and should 
 be remarked. The tomb formerly 
 stood within the arches of the lower 
 story. The upper arches were 
 originally filled with sculpture, and 
 on the top was a lolty " branch " 
 for seven great tapers. It is not im- 
 possible that the upper portion of 
 this tomb may have served as a 
 watch ing-chamber for the shrine of 
 St. Etheldreda. It resembles, in its 
 arrangements, the watching-chamber 
 of St. Frideswide's shrine at Oxford. 
 The shrines of the three sainted 
 abbesses stood in this part of the 
 church, between the high altar and 
 the altar of the choir. A small figure 
 of St. Etheldreda, in one of the roof 
 bosses, indicates perhaps the exact 
 position of her shrine. A figure of 
 the Saviour, in a boss more west- 
 ward, may mark the ancient position 
 of the high altar. 
 
 On the N. side, the monument 
 
 opposite Bishop Hotham's tomb is 
 that of Bishop Norioold (1229-1254), 
 much dilapidated, but of high in- 
 terest. Tlie base is modern. On it 
 rests the effigy of the bishop, fully 
 vested, with smaller fii^ures and 
 sculptures at the sides and foot. At 
 the foot is represented the story of 
 St. Edmund, of whose great monas- 
 tery, at Bury, Bishop Hugh had 
 been abbot. On one side of the 
 principal effigy are the figrires of a 
 king (St. Edmund), and of Bishop 
 Hugh as abbot and monk ; on the 
 other, three representations of St. 
 Etheldreda, as queen, abbess, and 
 nun. The two great monasteries 
 over which Bishop Hugh had pre- 
 sided were thus commemorated. The 
 shafts supporting the canopy are 
 cmiously enriched with foliage. The 
 piety, hospitality, and liberality to 
 the poor, of Bishop Norwold are 
 especially praised by ]Matt. Paris. 
 He built the eastern portion of the 
 Cathedral (see ante), and translated 
 into it, with great pomp, the shrines 
 and relics of the abbesses. 
 
 Below Bishop Nor wold's monu- 
 ment is the shrine of Bishop Hotham ; 
 and below, again, the effigy of Bishop 
 William of Kilkenny (1255-1256), 
 who died at Segovia, where he had 
 been sent to negotiate a treaty be- 
 tween Henry III. and Alfonso of 
 Castile. His heart was brought to 
 Ely for interment. The effigy is a 
 very fine and perfect specimen of 
 E. Eng. The morse, or clasp, of the 
 cope should be remarked. 
 
 The last monument is that of 
 Bishop Redman (1501-1505), with a 
 very elaborate Perp. canopy. The 
 arms of the bishop and see, and the 
 emblems of the Passion, are placed 
 on shields in the upper spandrels of 
 the canopy, on the tomb itself, and 
 on brackets at the head of it. Red- 
 man had been Bishop of St. Asaph 
 (1471), where he nearly rebuilt the 
 Cathedral, burnt by Owen Glendower 
 about 1404. In 1495 he was trans- 
 
414 
 
 Boute 3. — Ely : Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 lated to Exeter. Through whatever 
 towns BishoiD Redman passed on his 
 journeys, if he remained so long as 
 an hour, he caused a bell to be rung, 
 that the jooor might como and par- 
 take of his charity, which he dis- 
 tributed largely. 
 
 V/e now pass into the N. cJioir 
 aisle ; the first three bays of which, 
 westward, are Dec, and of the same 
 period as the western choir ; the 
 remaining portion is E. Eng., and part 
 of Bishop Hugh's work. The dis- 
 tinction between the two portions is 
 evident in the roof, which is rich 
 lierne in tlie Dec. work, and plainly 
 vaulted, with bosses, in the E. Eng. ; 
 and in the Purbeck capitals of the 
 shafts, of which the Eng. E. are 
 enriched with leafage ; the Dec. are 
 plain. 
 
 The aisle windows are late E. Eng. 
 The screen-work at the back of the 
 stalls, and the staircase to the organ 
 loft, are modern. Against the screen- 
 work have been i:)laced the monu- 
 ments of Bishop Fleetwood (1714- 
 1723), and of his son, Dr. Charles 
 Fleetivood. Opposite the staircase 
 is a very rich Dec. doorway, much 
 mutilated, through which the Lady 
 Chapel was approached (see post). 
 
 On the floor of this aisle is the 
 trass of the architect Basevi, who 
 was killed by a fall from the western 
 tower in 1845. Against the wall 
 are the monuments of Bishop Simon 
 Fatrich (1691-1707), one of the most 
 distinguished bishops who has filled 
 the see of Ely since the Reformation : 
 — his ' Paraphrase,' and ' Connnen- 
 taries,' sermons, and lesser tracts, 
 are still read and valued ; of Bishop 
 Mmvson (1754-1770) ; and of Bishop 
 Laneij (1667 - 1675) — " fVicundia 
 aniabilis; acumine terribilis; eru- 
 
 ditione auctissimus Hunc 
 
 monarcliire ot hierarchise ruinse ferie- 
 bant im]iavidum ; hunc eorundem 
 instam-atio ad thronum Pctroburg- 
 ensem, Lincolniensem, Eliensem, ex- 
 
 tulit horrentem." He had been one 
 of Charles I.'s chaplains. 
 
 The window above Bp. Laney's 
 monument is filled with stained glass 
 by Ward, in memory of Canon Far- 
 dell (d. 1854). The glass in the 
 adjoining window is by Hughes, and 
 is a memorial of Mrs. Fardell. 
 
 At the W. end of this aisle, between 
 it and the eastern aisle of the transept, 
 is the monument of Dean Cxsar (d. 
 1636). It has been restored, and is a 
 good example of the time. 
 
 The retro-choir, behind the present 
 altar-screen, is part of Bp. Hugh's 
 work, as has already been mentioned. 
 The eastern end is filled with two 
 tiers of windows, tlie lower consisting 
 of three very long lancets, with 
 groups of Purbeck shalts at the 
 angles, very rich mouldings, and 
 elongated quatrefoils in the span- 
 drels; the upper, of five lancets, 
 diminishing from the centre, and set 
 back, as in the clerestory, within 
 an arcade supported by shafts. The 
 manner in which this arcade is made 
 to fill the eastern end, and the con- 
 sequent form of its arches, are espe- 
 cially noticeable. The gold and 
 colour of the roof bosses have been 
 carried into it with excellent effect. 
 The windows are filled with stained 
 glass, by Wailes, representing, in the 
 lower lights, the history of Our Lord, 
 in a series of medallions, commencing 
 from the figure of Jesse, at the bottom 
 of the S. lancet. The upper win- 
 dows contain figures of tiie Apostles, 
 with the Saviour in majesty at the 
 top of the central light, and beneath, 
 foiu' events which occurred after 
 the Crucifixion. These fine windows 
 were the gift of Bp. Sparke (d. 1836), 
 whose kneeling figure is seen at the 
 bottom of the N. lancet. 
 
 The monument in the eastern bay 
 on the S. side, is that of Cardinal 
 de Luxembourg, Abp. of Rouen, who 
 had long supported the English in- 
 terests in France, and at the recora- 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boute 3. — Ell/ : Cathedral. 
 
 415 
 
 mendation %f Henry VI. was ap- 
 pointed to the see of Ely (1438-1443) 
 by the Pope. On the decline of 
 English influence in France he with- 
 drew from that country, and esta- 
 blished himself in England, but 
 seldom visited his diocese. He died 
 at Hatfield. His bowels were in- 
 terred in the ch. there, his heart at 
 Eouen, and his body at Ely. 
 
 Immediately at the back of the 
 altar-screen is a slab of rich Alex- 
 andrine mosaic, a memorial of Bj). 
 Allen (d. 1845). Here is also a 
 monument, designed by Scott and 
 executed by Philip, to the memory 
 of Dr. Mill fd. 1853), Canon of Ely, 
 Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge, 
 and Eegius Professor of Hebrew in 
 that University, and President of the 
 Episcopal College, Calcutta. The 
 recumbent figure of Dr. Mill is in 
 copper, and was formed by the elec- 
 trotype process. At the feet are two 
 kneeling figm-es — one an Oriental, 
 the other a Cambridge student. 
 
 Between the retro-choir and the 
 N. aisle is the tombstone of Bp. Gray 
 (1454-1478), stripped of its brasses. 
 He had been the King's Procurator 
 at Home, and was afterwards actively 
 employed as a Royal Commissioner 
 in the atfau's of Spain and of Scot- 
 land. 
 
 At the end of the N. aisle is the 
 chapel of Bp. Alcoch (1486-1500), 
 and designed in all probability by 
 himself, since he was " controller of 
 the royal works and buildings " 
 under Henry VII. The walls are 
 fretted with a superb mass of taber- 
 nacle work, which must have been 
 wonderfully rich when crowded with 
 figures, all of which have now dis- 
 appeared. The details, however, 
 hardly bear comparison with the 
 better Dec. work of the choii*. The 
 roof is richly groined, with a central 
 dependent boss. The windows, which 
 are early Dec, seem to have been 
 
 retained from the original termina- 
 tion of the aisle. The chapel is 
 entered by doors W. and S. On the 
 N. side is the Bishop's tomb, with a 
 window at the back, containing some 
 remains of ancient stained glass. A 
 door ojDens to the small space behind 
 the tomb, probably the Bp.'s chantry, 
 an arrangement very beautiful and 
 unusual. Upon the tomb itself, and 
 in the glass of the E. window, is 
 Alcock's device — a cock on a globe. 
 His shield of arms (three cocks' 
 heads) is over the S. door. The 
 original stone altar remains at the 
 E. end, but raised on modern sup- 
 ports. Remark the curious bosses 
 under the brackets on either side, 
 representing ammonites projecting 
 from their shells, and biting each 
 other. Above is placed a stone 
 found in opening a grave near the 
 chapel, and bearing the inscription, 
 " Johannes Alcock Eps. Elien. banc 
 fabricam fieri fecit 1488." Tlie 
 chapel has been partly restored, 
 and the floor laid with encaustic 
 tiles, at the cost of the Master and 
 Fellows of Jesus College. 
 
 Opposite, at the end of the South 
 Choir aisle, is the chapel of Bp. 
 West (1515-1533), the walls of which 
 are panelled with tabernacle work, 
 and crowded with figures, though 
 not to such an extent as Bjj. Alcock's. 
 In this chapel the influence of the 
 renaissance is at once evident. Italian 
 ornamentation is especially notice- 
 able in the brackets of the lower tier 
 of niches, and in the lower part of 
 that over the door, which displays a 
 figure in the costume of Francis I. 
 The ceiling, too, is a good example 
 of the conversion of Gothic fan- 
 tracery to the later panelled roof, 
 having deeply moulded ribs with 
 jjendent bosses, and panels painted 
 with arabesques and figures of 
 cherubs. Round the lower brackets 
 runs the Bp.'s motto, " Gratia Dei 
 sum quod sum," wliich also appears 
 over the door on the exterior. The 
 
416 
 
 Boute 3. — Ely : Catliedral. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 ornament round this door should be 
 noticed, as well as the remains of 
 colour. The ornaments have been 
 white, on a blue ground. The 
 original iron-work of the doors should 
 also be noticed. The tomb of Bp. 
 West is on the S. side of the chapel, 
 under a window which contahis some 
 fragments of old glass. The sculp- 
 tured figures and ornaments have 
 been terribly sliattered, possibly in 
 obedience to the injunctions of the 
 Protector Somerset, in 1547, for "the 
 general purification of the churches." 
 These injunctions were no doubt im- 
 perfectly obeyed; but works so re- 
 cently completed as this chapel, still 
 fret^h in colour and gilding, would at 
 once attract attention, and were per- 
 haps the first to sutler, Bp. West, 
 the son of a baker at Putney, was 
 throughout his life much employed 
 on public affairs, and in embassies 
 under Henry "VII. and Henry VIII. 
 He attended the latter to the "Camp 
 Drap d'Or." He built a chapel in 
 the parish ch. at Putney, which may 
 be compared with his chantry here. 
 
 Oyer Bp. West's tomb is an inscrip- 
 tion recording the removal to this 
 chapel, in 1771, of the bones of 
 seven benefactors to the ch. of Ely, 
 whose names are inscribed in small 
 arches beneath. The Swedish bishop, 
 Osmund, came to England when a 
 very aged man, remained for some 
 time attached to the household of 
 Edward the Confessor, and then 
 ended his days at Ely. Brihtnoth, 
 here called '• Duke of Northumbria," 
 killed by the Danes in 991, seems in 
 truth to have been Ealdorman (Dux) 
 of the E. Saxons, though the 'Hist, 
 Eliensis' makes him Earl of the 
 Northvmibrians. He fell at Maldon 
 (see Essex, Ete. 4). These bene- 
 factors w^ere first interred in the 
 Saxon ch., and were removed to the 
 Norm, cathedral in 1154 ; afterwards 
 the small coffins which contained 
 their remains were placed in the 
 N. wall of the choir, where they were 
 
 found when the choir wap altered in 
 1770. They were then re-interred 
 in this chapel. 
 
 At the E, end of the chapel, under 
 a window filled with stained glass 
 by Evans, is a high tomb for Bp. 
 SjKirhe (d. 1836), 
 
 In its architecture the S. choir 
 aisle precisely resembles the N. Many 
 of the windows are filled with stained 
 glass. The first, eastward, a memo- 
 rial for Ashley Sparke— "qui obiit 
 in armis Balaclav8e,0ct. 25, 1854" — 
 is by Clayton and Bell. The next 
 window v."as designed by Cottingham. 
 The third is by Lusson, of Paris, and 
 the fourth by Clayton and Bell. 
 
 Near the first window is a remark- 
 able fragment of a monument (a 
 coffin lid?) found in 1829, in St. 
 Mary's Ch., Ely, beneath the flooring 
 of the nave. An angel, with wings 
 raised above the head, bears in the 
 folding of his robe a small naked 
 figure (the soul), apparently of a 
 bishop or abbot, since a crozier pro- 
 jects at the side. The wings of the 
 angel are thrown up grandly at the 
 back, filling nearly all the upper 
 part of the arch under the canopy. 
 This is raised on long shafts, and 
 shows a mass of buildings with cir- 
 cular arches above the head. On 
 the inside rim is the inscription, " S= 
 S. Michael oret p' me." The slab 
 is of Purbeck marble. The work is 
 eai'ly Norm. 
 
 The monuments of bishops in this 
 aisle are of no great interest. They 
 are those of Bp. Gunning (1G75- 
 1684) ; Bp. Moore (1707-1714), whose 
 libiary, after his death, was bought 
 by George I., and given to the 
 University of Cambridge, — a gift re- 
 corded in the well-known epigram 
 (see Camhridqe, Univ. Library) ; Bp. 
 Heaion (1600-1609), in a richly 
 figured cope, of which vestment this 
 is perhaps the latest post-Reformation 
 example; Bp. Butts (1738-1748); 
 Bp. Greene (1723-1738); and Bp. 
 Allen (1836-1845). There are also 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boute 3. — Ely : Cathedral. 
 
 417 
 
 monuments for Eobert Steward (d. 
 1570) ; and Sir Mark Steward (d. 
 1603). Two brasses on the floor should 
 be noticed. The first is for Dean 
 Tynclall (d. 1614) ; the other for Bp. 
 Goodrich (lo34-1554), very interest- 
 ing as an example of the episcopal 
 vestments worn after the early Re- 
 formation. In his right hand he 
 holds the Bible, and the great seal 
 of England hangs below. He was 
 made Lord Chancellor in 1551. In 
 1550 he was appointed one of the 
 revisers of the New Testament ; and 
 in 1548 was one of the "notable 
 learned men " associated with Cran- 
 mer about the "Order of Commu- 
 nion," the first form of the English 
 office in the Book of Common Prayer. 
 Observe the renaissance character of 
 the ornaments on the chasuble and 
 other vestments. 
 
 The Chapter Library is arranged 
 in the E. aisle of the S. transept, 
 which was long since enclosed for 
 the purpose. The collection is prin- 
 cipally historical and theological, but 
 it contains nothing calling for espe- 
 cial notice. 
 
 The iron gates of the choir aisles 
 are modern ; very rich, and excellent 
 in design. 
 
 Through a passage opening from 
 the N.E, corner of the North tran- 
 sept, we enter the Lady Chapel^ 
 which since the Eeformation lias 
 served as a parish chiu-ch. "When 
 perfect, it was one of the most beau- 
 tiful and elaborate examples of the 
 Dec. period to be found in England ; 
 and it will still amply repay the most 
 careful study. 
 
 Tlie first stone of the Lady Chapel 
 was laid on the Festival of the An- 
 nunciation, 1321, by Alan of Wal- 
 singham, architect of the octagon, 
 who was at the time sul>prior of the 
 monastery. The work was continued 
 for 28 years, under the superin- 
 tendence of John of Wisbeach, one 
 of the monks, who, whilst digging 
 
 the foundations, found a^ brazen vessel 
 full of money, with which he paid 
 the workmen as long as it lasted. 
 He received contributions also from 
 different quarters; and the Bishop, 
 Simon de Montacute, gave largely 
 toward the work — "like Simon the 
 high priest, the son of Onias," says 
 the Monk of Ely, " who in his life 
 repaired the house again, and in his 
 days fortified the temple." 
 
 Although John of Wisbeach super- 
 intended the work, the architect was 
 in all probability Alan of Walsing- 
 ham. The chapel is a long parallelo- 
 gram of 5 bays, with 5 windows on 
 either side, the tracery in which is 
 alike. The east end is nearly filled 
 by a large window of 7 lights, the 
 design of which is unusual, and 
 suggests the approaching change 
 from Dec. to Perp. At the W. end 
 is another large window, differing in 
 tracery. Both E. and W. windows 
 have transomes. The roof is an 
 elaborate Heme vault, resembling 
 that of the Dec. portion of the choir. 
 Between all the side windows is rich 
 tabernacle-work with canopies, from 
 which the figures have disappeared ; 
 and along the wall beneath runs an 
 arcade which has been magnificent. 
 This is formed by three arches in 
 each bay, with projecting canopies, 
 and spandrels above, tilled with 
 sculpture. The east end has a some- 
 what different arrangement, with a 
 large niche immediately over the 
 altar, in which, no doubt, originally 
 stood a figure of the Virgin. This 
 arcade, with its brackets and canopies, 
 deserves special notice. The whole 
 has been terribly shattered. The 
 chapel has been greatly improved by 
 alterations made in 1865, when close 
 pews were removed and open seats 
 substituted. 
 
 The position of this Lady Chapel 
 is unusual. The Lady Chapel of 
 Peterborough, of earlier date (1278), 
 but now destroyed, was, however, 
 similarly placed. Other examples of 
 Lady Chapels added elsewhere than 
 
 t3 
 
418 
 
 Boute 3. — Ely : Cathedral. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 at tlic eastern end occur at Oxford, 
 Kochester, Durham, and Bristol. In 
 nearly all these cases, the most 
 honourable position, at the eastern 
 end of the ch., was reserved for the 
 shrine of the local saint, — as St. 
 Cuthbert at Durham, and St, Ethel- 
 dreda at Ely. 
 
 A staircase in the N. transept leads 
 to the upper parts of the cathedral ; 
 the most interesting portion of which 
 is the timber bracing of the roof of 
 the octagon, added some time after 
 its completion, in order to strengthen 
 the entire work. A fine interior 
 view, looking westward, is obtained 
 from the passage at the base of the 
 upper tier of windows at the E. end ; 
 and a vast panorama of the fens and 
 lowlands of Cambridgeshire, with 
 the Ouse winding through them, is 
 gained from the summit of the western 
 tower. 
 
 Passing out of the Cathedral by the 
 western porch, we proceed to notice 
 the exterior. Beyond the ruined 
 N.W. transept, the fall of which lias 
 already been mentioned, a view is 
 obtained of the great Western Tower, 
 which, as high as the stage level 
 with the clerestory of the nave, was 
 the work of Bp. Riddell (1174-1189). 
 The stages up to the commencement 
 of the octagon are E. Eng. ; and were 
 probably built by Bp. Eiddell's suc- 
 cessor, William Longchamp (1189- 
 1198). The octagon itself, with its 
 buttressing turrets, was added during 
 the Dec. period ; and was originally 
 crowned with a slender spire of wood, 
 which has disappeared. The pierced 
 openings in the parapet of the tower, 
 and in the upper part of the buttress 
 turrets, occasionally produce beauti- 
 ful and unusual effects of light. 
 
 The Perp. windows inserted in the 
 triforium of the nave may here be 
 remarked ; as well as the buttressing 
 turrets, with their spire-like termi- 
 nations, at the ends of the great 
 transept. A portion of the N.W. 
 corner of this N. transept fell in 
 
 1699 ; but was rebuilt, and the ori- 
 ginal stonework carefully replaced, 
 under the care of Sir Christopher 
 Wren. The part rebuilt may readily 
 be traced on the exterior, though 
 scarcely within. 
 
 The central Octagon, from what- 
 ever point it is observed, groups well 
 with the lines of the transept and 
 nave, and with the transept turrets. 
 The wide under portion is flat-roofed, 
 with low turrets at the angles ; be- 
 tween which runs a pierced parapet. 
 The very beautiful tracery of the win- 
 dows in the smaller sides of the 
 octagon should here be noticed from 
 the exterior, as well as the arcade 
 above, pierced with lights for the 
 inner roof, six in the larger sides, 
 three in the smaller. The lantern 
 rises in two stories, with slender 
 buttresses at the angles. It has been 
 entirely restored under the dhection 
 and from the plans of 3Ir. G. G. 
 Scott. 
 
 Buttresses with high pinnacles rise 
 between each bay of the Lady Chapel ; 
 above the E. window of which is a 
 series of niches, once filled with 
 figures. 
 
 The East End of the Cathedral 
 itself (Bp. Hugh's work) is a grand 
 example of E. Eng., and rises in good 
 contrast with the short, green turf, 
 closing quite up round it. Buttresses 
 with niches and canopies rise on 
 either side of the three tiers of 
 windows (the uppermost of which 
 lights the roof), the clustered shafts 
 dividing which, with all their mould- 
 ings and details, will amply repay 
 notice. 
 
 Passing to the S. side of the choir, 
 remark the flying buttresses with 
 their lofty pinnacles which unite the 
 wall of the triforium with the clere- 
 story. These are of Dec. character, 
 and were no doubt added when the 
 triforium itself was altered, early in 
 the 14th centy. (see ante). The 
 oriirinal form of the triforium win- 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boute 3. — Ehj : Cathedral. 
 
 419 
 
 (lows may be seen in the two bays of 
 the choir between the Dec. work and 
 Bp. Hugh's. The eastern wall and 
 window openings of Bp. Hugh's 
 triforium still remain in these two 
 bays. 
 
 The Perp. window in the upper 
 part of the S. transept is curious, 
 and should be noticed. 
 
 A passage or building connected 
 ■with the cloisters seems to have ex- 
 isted at the S. end of the transept. 
 The cloisters themselves stretched 
 along under the S. side of the nave 
 as usual. Their extent is marked 
 by an arcade along the lower part of 
 tlie wall ; but the actual cloisters 
 have long disappeared. Two Norm, 
 doorways, much enriched, open into 
 the nave on this side of the church. 
 That at the eastern end of the nave 
 aisle was the Monks entrance, and 
 has a trefoiled heading, with figures 
 holding pastoral staves in the span- 
 drels, and twisted dragons above. 
 The foliage and mouldings, which 
 are very rich and involved, indicate, 
 like the heading of the doorway, 
 its late or Trans, character. The 
 lower entrance, at the S.W. angle of 
 the cloisters, was the Prior's door, 
 and is far more elaborate than that 
 of the monks. In the tympanum is 
 the Saviour within an elongated 
 aiu'eole, supported by angels. The 
 curious grotesques and ornaments 
 deserve careful notice. Both door- 
 ways may be compared with the 
 Norm, work in the lower part of the 
 W. front of Lincoln Cathedral ; which 
 is of similar character, and nearly of 
 the same date. 
 
 The exterior of the S.W. transept 
 indicates the different dates which 
 have akeady been pointed out from 
 within. The upper portion of the 
 transept walls and of the lofty octan- 
 gular flanking turrets is E. Eng., the 
 lower part late Norm. 
 
 The remains of the Conventual 
 buildings are extensive and interest- 
 ing. The most ancient portions arc 
 
 a Norm, crypt under part of the 
 Prior's Lodge, and some Norm, frag- 
 ments in the wall stretching N. of 
 " Ely Porta "—the great gate of the 
 monastery. The whole mass of the 
 buildings, grey and picturesque, with 
 their ivied walls, their green courts 
 and gardens, covers a considerable 
 space, and suggests the great size 
 and importance of ancient Ely. " Of 
 all abbeys in England," says Fuller, 
 " Ely bore away the bell for bounti- 
 ful feast-making ; the vicinity of the 
 fens affording them plenty of flesh, 
 fish, and fowl at low rates. Here- 
 upon the poet — 
 
 ' Prajvisis aliis, Eliensia fosta videre 
 Est, quasi priBvisa nocte, videre diem.' " 
 
 A short distance E. of the S. 
 transept are the piers and arches of 
 the Infirmary, of late Norm. date. 
 Tlie mouldings of the arches and all 
 the details deserve notice. At the 
 W. end are 5 E. Eng. arches, now 
 blocked iip, each of which encloses 
 a double arch, which is again sub- 
 divided into two. In the tympanum 
 of the outer arch is a quatrefoil. 
 A house on the N. side is said to 
 have been that of the sacrist, Alan 
 of Walsingham, by whom it was 
 built. 
 
 The Dormitory stood on the E. 
 side of the cloisters ; the Refectory 
 on tlie S. Both have entirely dis- 
 appeared. The Deanery seems to 
 have been constructed from the an- 
 cient Guest Hall, dating from the 
 loth century, and still retaining its 
 long roof, with a foiled opening in 
 the upiaer part of the W. wall. The 
 Priors Lodge extended beyond it, 
 S. ; and was built roimd a small 
 quadrangle. The high windows of 
 the Prior's great hall remain in a 
 house adjoining Prior Craudene's 
 Chapel ; a small but very interesting 
 Dec. building of 4 bays, founded by 
 Prior John of Craudene, who died in 
 1341, and probably designed by Alan 
 of Walsingham. The window tracery, 
 
420 
 
 Route 3. — Ely : Bisliop's Palace ; 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 the niches, and the ancient tiles at 
 the altar should all be noticed. The 
 Chapel has been restored, and is now 
 used as a chapel for the Grammar 
 School. 
 
 Some distance S. is " Ely Porta," 
 the principal entrance to the monas- 
 tery, bnilt by Prior Buckton late in 
 the 14th centy. The room above 
 the archways is appropriated to the 
 use of the King's Grammar School, 
 founded in 1541 by Henry VIII., 
 and placed under the control of the 
 Dean and Chapter. The foundation 
 is for 24 boys, elected without re- 
 striction of birth or residence. The 
 school enjoys a high reputation. 
 
 On the N. side of the monastery 
 an entrance remains beneath a tower 
 opposite the Lady Chapel. Portions 
 of the sacrist]! and of the almonry, 
 with some E. Eng. vaulting and atrip- 
 let window, adjoin this tower toward 
 the E., connected with an arched 
 gateway opening to the street. On 
 one side of this gateway is a new 
 building containing school and prac- 
 tice rooms for the choristers. Over 
 the gateway is the muniment room. 
 
 On the S. side of the Cathedral 
 extends the so-called 'parh ; a wide, 
 tree-planted expanse, much of which 
 was anciently within the monastic 
 precincts. Not far from " Ely Porta" 
 is a lofty mound, no doubt artificial, 
 and known as Cherry Hill. It should 
 be climbed for the sake of the view. 
 (Apply to the porter at the great 
 gate.) The mound may have been 
 connected with some British fortress, 
 or with one of the mediaeval strong- 
 holds erected at Ely. But no stone 
 foundations have been traced on or 
 near it. 
 
 The best general view of the West 
 Front of the Cathedral will be ob- 
 tained either from the end of the 
 lawn fronting the Bishop's Palace, 
 or from a point at the side of the 
 lawn about halfway down. From 
 
 the N.E. corner of the market-place 
 there is a good view of the E. end ; 
 and a strikmg view of the nave and 
 western tower may be gained from 
 the end of the lane of houses in which 
 are the arches of the Infirmary. From 
 all points, the enormous length of the 
 vast structure is conspicuous. The 
 Cathedral is as completely a land- 
 mark to the whole of the fen country 
 as is the great tower of Mechlin to 
 the lowlands of Brabant; and its 
 glories, thus recorded in monastic 
 verse, are still the pride of the entire 
 district : — 
 
 " Ha^c sunt Elyte, Lanterna, Capella Marian, 
 Atque jMolendinuni, multum dans Viiiea 
 
 vinuni. 
 Continet insontes, quos valiant undique 
 
 pontes ; 
 Hos ditant montes; nee desunt flumina, 
 
 fontes. 
 Nomen ab anguilla ducit Insula nobilis 
 
 ilia." 
 
 The Bishop's Palace, W. of the 
 Cathedral, dates for the most part 
 from the time of Henry VII., of which 
 it is a good example. The wings and 
 hall were built by Bp. Alcock (148G- 
 1500), whose arms are on the front 
 of the eastern wing. The gallery 
 adjoining the western wing was the 
 work of Bp. Goodrich (1534-1554), 
 temp. Ed. VI. The palace contains 
 the portraits of several bishops ; and 
 the very curious " Tabula Eliensis," 
 a copy (which cannot be earlier than 
 the time of Henry VII.) of one 
 which formerly hung in the great hall 
 of the monastery. The " Tabula " re- 
 presents forty Norman knights, each 
 in company with a monk, and each 
 having his shield of arms above him, 
 with his name and ofiice. The 
 knights are said (according to a MS. 
 of no great antiquity, quoted by Ful- 
 ler and Bentham) to have been placed 
 by the Conqueror in the monastery 
 after the taking of the Isle of Ely : 
 they became so friendly with the 
 monks that on their departure the 
 brethren, after bewailing their going 
 
Cambridge. Boute 3. — St. Marifs Church ; Cromioell Arms. 421 
 
 with howling fearful to be heard, 
 brought tliem as far as Haddenham 
 in procession with singing," and 
 afterwards placed tlie "Tabula" in 
 their hall for a perpetual memory 
 of their guests. The " Tabula " will 
 be found engraved in Eentham's 
 'History of Ely,' and in Fuller's 
 'Chiu-ch History.' The history of 
 Ely for some time after the Con- 
 quest has been involved in much 
 romantic fable, and it is difficult to 
 say what (or whether any) real 
 facts are represented by the "Ta- 
 bula." A passage in the ' Liber 
 Eliensis' (Bk. ii. ^ 105' may perhaps 
 have supplied a hint for it. A cer- 
 tain Deda, who had been taken pri- 
 soner by Hereward and his company, 
 and had been well treated and re- 
 leased, is described as giving the 
 Conqueror a long account of the 
 isle and its resources. As long as 
 he was there, he says, he was fed 
 in the refectory with the monks — 
 and the warriors who were holding 
 out the isle fed there likewise — each 
 soldier with a monk. " Cotidie cum 
 monachis in refectorio suo, habunde 
 satis, more Anglorum, vescebar; 
 miles semper cum monacho ad pran- 
 dium et ad ccenam reficit, et juxta 
 unumquemque, clipei, lanceae, parieti 
 adhserentes pendebant." 
 
 St. Marys Cli., W. of the palace, 
 is E. Eng. and Dec. with Perp. 
 windows inserted. It was built on 
 the site of an earlier ch. by Bp. 
 Eustace (1198-1215), the builder of 
 the western Galilee porch of the 
 Cathedral (see ante). It is possible 
 that the arches of the N. and S. 
 doors (the latter is blocked up) and 
 the piers of the nave may have 
 belonged to the earlier building. 
 The portals are Trans.-Norm. ; the 
 piers plain Norm, The nave arches 
 are pointed, with E. Eng. mouldings. 
 The chancel is E. Eng. with a Perp. 
 E. window inserted ; and on the S. 
 side of the nave is an E. Eng. chapel. 
 At the W. end is a lofty Dec. tower, 
 
 capped by a spire. It is possible 
 that no portions of the earlier ch. 
 remain ; and that the Trans, character 
 of many details indicates the erection 
 of the ch. early in the episcopate of 
 Eustace. The noble E. Eng, Galilee 
 was not built until its close. The 
 ch. was " repaired and pewed " in 
 1829. 
 
 Adjoining the ch.-yard, on the W., 
 is an alehouse called the Cromwell 
 Arms, deserving notice as having 
 been in all probability inhabited at 
 one time by Oliver Cromwell. It 
 was then known as the Glebe House ; 
 and was always appropriated to the 
 farmers of the tithes. " Some quaint 
 air of gentility," says Mr. Carlyle, 
 " still looks through its ragged dila- 
 pidation. It is of two stories, more 
 properly of one and a half; has many 
 windows, irregular chimneys, and 
 gables." Cromwell farmed the tithes ; 
 having come to Ely in 16K6, on in- 
 heriting the property of his uncle 
 Sir T. Steward. It was during his 
 residence here that Cromwell, in 
 1637, led the opposition to the di'ain- 
 age of the fens, which, as he intisted, 
 was attempted by the king merely 
 to fill his exchequer, and enable 
 him to govern without a Parliament. 
 Cromwell gained great popularity 
 from his conduct on this occasion, 
 and became known as the " Lord of 
 the Fens." When, in 1643, he was 
 voted by the House of Commons 
 Governor of the Isle of Ely, he gave 
 his whole patronage and support to 
 the scheme, 
 
 Ely is now the seat of the Fen 
 Office for the Corporation of the Bed- 
 ford Level, which superintends the 
 drainage of a very large district of 
 marshland. Much asparagus is grown 
 in the neighbourhood for the supply 
 of the London market. 
 
 Excursions from Ely. 
 
 S.E. of Ely the Churches of Soham, 
 Isleham, and Forclham are worth 
 
422 
 
 Route 3. — Soliam — IsleJiam, 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 seeing, and may easily be visited in 
 one excursion. The tourist may drive 
 from Ely to Newmarket, visitiug these 
 churches on his way. There will be 
 a slight detour to Isleham. The 
 distance from Ely to Newmarket is 
 12 m. 
 
 About 2 m. from Ely on this road 
 is Stuntney, where is a small Norm. 
 Chapel, with later windows inserted. 
 The chancel arch, doorways, and font, 
 all Norm., are worth notice. From 
 the slight rising ground, called 
 Stuntney Hill (on the road), there 
 is a fine view of Ely Cathedral. 
 
 5 m. from Ely is Soliam, where is 
 a ch. of great interest. The road 
 from Ely to Soham is known as 
 Sobam Causeway, and was the work 
 of Herve le Breton, the first bishop 
 of Ely (1109-1131). Soham was at 
 that time famous for its large lake 
 or mere, covering more than 1300 
 acres, through which there was, until 
 the draining of the fens, a dangerous 
 water passage to Ely. (This mere, 
 which lies W. of the village, lias long 
 been drained, and is now a rich tract 
 of arable land.) It was across this 
 "mare de Soham" that Cnut passed 
 on the ice — see ante. Kichard of Ely 
 tells how St. Edmund appeared to a 
 certain " villain " (colono) of Exning, 
 in the corner of Suflblk which pro- 
 jects into Cambridgeshire N. of New- 
 }narket, and ordered him to tell the 
 Bishop of Ely " to prepare a road by 
 which he (St. Edmund) might visit 
 the most blessed Lady Etheldreda." 
 The bishop wept for joy ; and at last 
 found a monk named John, who was 
 skilful enough to construct a road, 
 and to build the necessary bridges. 
 This was the " Causeway " since im- 
 proved into the excellent high-road 
 between Ely and Soham. There was 
 a ch. at Soham at a very early period. 
 According to the ' Liber Eliensis,' 
 Felix, the first East Anglian bishop, 
 established a small religious house 
 here, which was destroyed by the 
 
 Danes in 870. Felix was himself 
 buried at Soham (Lei. ' Collect.' ii. 
 247), but his body was afterwards 
 removed to Ramsey. There were 
 two manors; one of which belonged 
 to the crown, the other to the Con- 
 vent of Ely, and afterwards to the 
 bishops of that see. The rectory was 
 given by Richard I. to the Abbot 
 and Convent of Pyno, from whom it 
 was bought in 1285 by the Abbey of 
 Rewley, near Oxford. In 1450, Pem- 
 broke College, Cambridge, bought it 
 from the Rewley Cistercians. The 
 Church (ded. to St. Andrew) s large, 
 cruciform, with a W. tower. The 
 chancel walls are E. Eag. with Dec. 
 windows inserted. There was at first 
 a tower between nave and chancel. 
 This has been taken down ; but the 
 arches remain, and are Trans.-Norm. 
 That toward the nave is much en- 
 riched. The nave itself -has 5 bays 
 on either side, Trans.-Norm. ; the 
 piers alternately round and octagonal. 
 In the Perp. period another bay was 
 added to the nave, and the W. tower 
 was built. (The central tower was 
 then perhaps taken down.) This 
 Perp. tower is a landmark, very fine 
 and lofty, and panelled with flint 
 and stone, in Norfolk fashion. The 
 transepts seem to be Trans.-Norm. 
 with later insertions. The ch. con- 
 tains some good old woodwork. 
 
 The Ch. of Isleham, 2i m. E. of 
 Soham, may be reached by crossing 
 Soham Fen. It contains some fine 
 brasses, and will repay a visit. The 
 ch. itself is cruciform, with a W. 
 tower; and is chiefly Trans, from 
 Dec. to Perp. The chancel arch is 
 of this character, and is unusually 
 wide and lofty. The spandrels of 
 the nave arches are deeply panelled, 
 and contain shields with the arms 
 of Peyton and Bernard. The clere- 
 story and roof are later, and are Perp. 
 of the Sufiblk type — very fine. The 
 roof has carved angels for hammer- 
 beams ; and an inscription recording 
 that Crystofer Peyton "dyd mtik 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Hotite 3. — Fordham, 
 
 423 
 
 thys rofe in the yere of oure Lord 
 MCCCCLXxxxv. beyno^ the x year of 
 Kyuge Hery the VII." The font is 
 Perp., deeply carved ; there is a brass 
 eagle, and a wall-painting of the 
 Virgin and Child on the N. wall of 
 the chancel. In both transepts are 
 sepulchral recesses, and effigies in 
 plate-armoui'. These are probably 
 Bernards, who held a manor of that 
 name in the parish, which passed by 
 marriage, after 1451, to the Peytons. 
 In the S. transept are also high 
 tombs with brasses for Sir John 
 Bernard (1451) and wife; and for 
 " Sir Richard Peyton," student and 
 reader at Gray's Inn, and wife (d. 
 1574). The finest brass, however, is 
 in the chancel. This is for Thomas 
 Peyton (d. 1484) and his two wives, 
 Margaret Bernard and Margaret 
 Francis. The rich "branched" 
 pattern, covering the dress of one 
 of the ladies, is unusual, and should 
 be remarked. The sacred mono- 
 gram, IHC, occurs on her head- 
 dress. The hands of both wives are 
 raised, and held apart on each side 
 of the breast. The large and curious 
 elbow-pieces of Thomas Peyton's 
 armour are also noticeable. The 
 figui-es are under a triple canopy. 
 
 The chief manor of Isleham was 
 held under the Earl of Arundel, by 
 a special service. Whenever the 
 earl, " in going to the wars," passed 
 Haringsmere (an old mere in Isle- 
 ham, now drained, and in tillage — 
 an ancient raised road runs by it), 
 the lord of the manor met him, and 
 presented a gammon of bacon on the 
 point of his lance. There was a 
 small alien priory at Isleham, a cell 
 to the monastery of " St. Jacutus de 
 Insula " in Brittany. (This convent 
 had another cell at Linton — Rte. 9.) 
 Of its foundation nothing is known ; 
 and although it was certainly in 
 existence in 1254, its history cannot 
 be traced afterwards. The land now 
 belongs to Pembroke College. The 
 small Church of the priory remains, 
 
 near the parish ch. It is late Norm, 
 with an apsidal E. end, and small, 
 narrow buttresses — diminishing in 
 stages. Within are 2 round arches, 
 one across the chancel, and another 
 at the spring of the apse. The win- 
 dows are narrow and deeply splayed. 
 This interesting chapel is now used 
 as a barn. 
 
 Fordham Ch., 2 m. S.E. of Isle- 
 ham, has a curious chapel of 2 stories 
 attached to it. The ch. is chiefly 
 E. Eng. with numerous later addi- 
 tions. Chancel and chancel arch are 
 E. Eng., nave piers E. Eng. and 
 plain Dec, clerestory and roof Perp. 
 The N. doorway is E. Eng., "open- 
 ing into the lower story of tlie chapel, 
 which consists of 6 bays, vaulted with 
 stone ribs springing from late Dec. 
 responds, and carried on 2 central 
 detached piers; the windows are 
 single lights, cinquefoiled. Over this 
 is a good chapel of late Dec. character, 
 called the Lady Chapel. There was 
 a doorway, now blocked, into the ch. ; 
 and the upper chapel is at present 
 entered by an external staircase 
 turret at the N.W. angle." The ch, 
 of Fordham was given by Hen. III. 
 to the great Gilbertine monastery 
 at Sempringham. A small priory of 
 Gilbertines, a cell to Sempringham, 
 was founded here by Sir Eobert de 
 Fordham in the same reign. There 
 are no remains. Fordham has been 
 honoured by the presence of royalty 
 in its day; and the parish register 
 contains the following entry: — " 1604. 
 Upon Wednesday, the 27th February, 
 the high and mighty Prince James, 
 by the grace of God, King of Great 
 Britain, France, and Ireland, De- 
 fender of the Faith, &c., did hunt the 
 hare with his own hounds in our 
 fields of Fordham, and did kill six 
 near a place called Blackland, and 
 did afterwards take his repast in the 
 fields, at a bush near the King's 
 Park," 
 
 At Fordham the tourist may regain 
 
424 
 
 JRoute 3. — Wiclcen — Wilhurton — Haddenham, Sect. IV. 
 
 the Newcastle road, about 7 m. from 
 Ely. 
 
 At Wiclien, 2 in. S.W. of Soliam, is 
 a small E. Eng. and Perp. Ch., in 
 whioli is buried Henry CroniAvell, 
 son of the Protector, born 1G28, and 
 "some time" Lord-Deputy of Ire- 
 land. He died in 1673 ; having, 
 after the Kestoration, lived in retire- 
 ment at Spinney Priory in this parish. 
 Charles II. visited Henry Cromwell 
 here (Sei^t. 1671) during one of 
 the royal sojourns at Newmarket. 
 (Henry Cromwell had married a 
 daughter of Sir Francis Kussell, son 
 of Sir William Kussell of Chippen- 
 ham, to whose house Charles I. went 
 to play bowls; see Ete. 2.) Spinney 
 Priory was founded for Augustinian 
 canons by Hugh de Malebisse, in 
 the reign of Hen, III. It afterwards 
 passed to the great convent at Ely; 
 and about the middle of the 17th 
 centy. became the jiroperty of Henry 
 Cromwell. His son mortgaged it ; 
 and it was at last bought by Edward 
 Russell, Earl of Orford. The Peytons 
 of Isleham had a house at Wicken ; 
 and here lived Sir Henry Peyton 
 the Parliamentarian, who, after the 
 king's death, wrote a pamphlet called 
 ' The Divine Catastrophe of tho 
 House of Stewart.' 
 
 S.W. of Ely the Churches of Wil- 
 hurton, Haddenham, and Sutton de- 
 serve attention. (The drive may be 
 to Stretham, 4 m. from Ely. Thence 
 by Wilburton to Haddenham, 3 m. 
 Thence to Sutton, 3im.; returning 
 to Ely by Witchford. 6 m. The 
 drive will give a good notion of 
 the fen country, with its drains and 
 droves, its rich pastures, and its richer 
 cornland. As far as Pladdenliam 
 the road skirts the higher ground of 
 the Isle of Ely.) 
 
 Wilhurton Ch., Perp., has been care- 
 fully restored. The arms and rebus 
 of Bp. Alcock appear on the bosses 
 of the roof, and in the spandrels ; and 
 
 his rebus, in metalwork, is suspended 
 from the roof Some wall painting, 
 with figures of St. Blaize and St. 
 Leodegar, remains on the N. wall of 
 the nave. Here are also brasses for 
 Richard Bole, Archdeacon of Ely, 
 1477; John Hill and wife, 1506; and 
 William Bird, 1516. The two latter 
 are worth notice. The manor of Wil- 
 burton belonged to the see of Ely. 
 The rectory was appropriated to the 
 archdeacons of Ely ; and in the old 
 house, Henry VII. and his son, Prince 
 Henry, were entertained by Richard 
 Alcock, then archdeacon, and after- 
 wards Bp. of Ely. The king and 
 13rin(.^e were on a pilgrimage to the 
 shrine of St. Etheldreda. 
 
 Haddenham Ch. (ded. to the Holy 
 Trinity) is fine, and ranges from 
 E. Eng. to late Dec. The chancel 
 windows are Dec, the nave Early Dec. 
 with Perjj. additions, the clerestory 
 and roof Perp., the font Perp.. the S. 
 porch Dec. There is a good Perp. 
 rood-screen. The tower, Trans, from 
 E. Eng. to Dec, circ. Ed. I,, is 
 specially noticeable. Remark the 
 deeply recessed circular windows on 
 the N. and S. sides — the uppermost 
 stage is a Perp. addition. 
 
 The principal manor of Hadden- 
 ham belonged to the see of Ely. The 
 manor of Ilinton, in the parish, M'as 
 appropriated to the convent, and on 
 the Dissolution was granted to Sir 
 Edward North, and afterwards came 
 to the Wrens — one of whom built a 
 house here in the reign of Elizabeth. 
 Of this "Wren's nest," as it was called, 
 there are some remains, built into a 
 dove-house, and showing by their 
 early Perp. character that the old 
 grange of the monks was worked up 
 in the Elizabethan hall. The site 
 is picturesque. 
 
 [About 1 m. S. of Haddenham is 
 Aldreth, where, in the old days of 
 the imdrained fenland, was one 
 of the principal approaches to the 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boute 4. — Aldreth — Sutton. 
 
 425 
 
 Isle of Ely. It was here that (if 
 the authorities are to be trusted) the 
 Conqueror, when the Isle of Ely had 
 been turned into a "camp of refuge," 
 and was held against him by the 
 English nol)les who had assembled 
 there, made two unsuccessful attempts 
 (a.d. 1062?) to bridge the fen (here 
 half a mile in breadth) so as to convey 
 his soldiers across to the firm ground 
 of the Isle. The bridge or causeway 
 was made, it is said, of wood, stone, 
 and faggots, with great balks of 
 timber fastened underneath by cow- 
 hides. Tiie whole structure gave 
 way as the men were crossing it, and 
 great numbers were drowned in the 
 fen. (Weapons were still turned up 
 in the fen here when Thomas of Ely 
 compiled the ' Liber Eliensis' to- 
 ward the middle of the 12th centy. — 
 " in testimonium hujus rei ex ipsis 
 fundaminibus ssepius arma extrahi 
 cernimus.'' A second bridge was after 
 wards constructed, and great masses 
 of material were brought by the 
 fishermen of the district in tlieir 
 boats. The famous Hereward is said 
 to have thus worked disguised as 
 a fisherman, and to have set fire to 
 the whole when nearly completed. 
 The men of the Isle afterwards fired 
 the reeds, and the flames, spreading 
 far and wide, effectually scared their 
 assailants. Whatever truth there 
 may be in the details recorded in 
 the ' Liber Eliensis,' and the very 
 mythical *Vita Herewardi,' we owe 
 to them the vivid scenes in Canon 
 Kingsley's ' Hereward ' which set 
 before us the attack at Aldreth. The 
 name has been variously interpreted. 
 Aire Jiythe = the alder shore; Ald- 
 reche = ih.e old "reach" of the Ouse 
 or West river, which ran close by ; 
 and Audrey's Hythe, Etheldreda's or 
 St. Audrey's landing, have all been 
 proposed. St. Audrey's Causeway 
 leads to the place, and there is a St. 
 Audrey's Well above it. But what- 
 ever the "reth" may be, it seems 
 hardly possible to doubt that we have 
 the same termination iu " Meldreth " 
 
 and " Shepreth," on the road between 
 Cambridge and Eoyston ; and possi- 
 bly in "Earith," at the S. end of 
 the old Bedford river. A "castle" 
 at Aldreth is afterwards mentioned, 
 and seems to have been occupied at 
 different times by the adherents of 
 Stephen and the Empress Matilda. 
 There are no remains of such a 
 structure; and it may have been 
 a wooden fortress, commanding the 
 approach to the Isle, such as Roger 
 of Wendover asserts still existed in 
 his day in the fens, under the name 
 of "Hereward's Castle." In Wil- 
 lingham Field, across the old chan- 
 nel of the Ouse, is a circular earth- 
 work called Balsars Hills — about 
 which the Conqueror's army wag 
 gathered during the attack on Ald- 
 reth. The earthwork has been 
 assigned to William, but is no doubt 
 of much earlier date. It is called 
 "Campus de Belasis" in a record 
 of the reign of Hen. II L, and the 
 name of a certain " Belasius " occurs 
 in the famous ''Tabula Eliensis" 
 (see Ely, ante). Belasius is there 
 called " Prseses Militum versus Elye." 
 A great cattle-market was formerly 
 held at Aldreth ; and a petition 
 exists, signed by " Oliver Cromwell " 
 and others, entreating Wren, Bishop 
 of Ely, to lay before the king the 
 condition of Aldreth bridge, which 
 had fallen into decay, so that the 
 market could not be hcld.J 
 
 Turning N. across Haddenham 
 Field (the "fields" attached to all 
 these villages were ancient clearings 
 of ploughed land), a drive of 3 J m. 
 brings us to Sidton, where is a large 
 and fine early Pcrp. C/<., said to have 
 been built by John Barnet, Bp. of 
 Ely (1866-13*73). The nave arches 
 are lofty, and the chancel unusually 
 spacious. On either side of the E. 
 window is a gracefully designed 
 niche. All the windows are very 
 lofty, "and are inserted under lofty 
 arches in the walls, with responds, 
 which are carried all round the ch., 
 
426 
 
 Boute 4. — Ely to Peterborough. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 internally." Some original glass 
 and some of the old benches remain. 
 There is a large porch, with a par- 
 vise chamber above it. The very 
 lofty tower is square at the base, 
 then octagonal, and above again is 
 a smaller octagonal turret, with pin- 
 nacles at the angles. The whole 
 outline is singular. Sutton was one 
 of the earliest possessions of the 
 Convent of Ely, and now belongs to 
 the Cathedral. 
 
 The Churches of Wenhvorth and 
 Witcham—2 m. from Sutton, a little 
 off (rt. and 1.) the main road to Ely — 
 contain E. Eng. jjortions, but are not 
 of equal interest to Haddenham or 
 Sutton. The E. Eng. chancel of 
 Wentworth is good. At Witeham is a 
 fine E. Eng. font, with grotesque 
 sculptures. In Coveney Ch., 3 m. N.E. 
 of Witeham (chiefly Dec), the open 
 benches are curiously carved. 
 
 EOUTE 4. 
 
 ELY TO PETERBOROUGH, BY MARCH 
 AND WHITTLESEA. (THORNEY AB- 
 BEY.) 
 
 (Branch of Great Eastern Ely., 
 
 29f m.) 
 
 The chief thing to be seen upon 
 this line is the wide expanse of fen, 
 with the improvements effected by 
 scientific drainage of late years. 
 
 3J m. Chitiisham Stat. Here is a 
 small, plain Trans.-Norm. chapel. 
 
 Between Chittisham and the next 
 stat., 4f m. Black Bank, is the vil- 
 lage of Downham. The Ch. contains 
 portions of several styles. The S. 
 doorway is very good and rich 
 Trans.-Norm., with zigzag and beak- 
 head ornaments, and sculptured cajDS 
 and shafts. The arch is pointed 
 and recessed. The tower is early 
 Norm. The nave E. Eng., the chancel 
 late Dec. The bishops of Ely had a 
 palace here, some remains of which 
 exist. It was a favourite residence 
 of the bishops, 4 of whom died here. 
 Bishop Alcock is said to have re- 
 built the palace ; Bishop Andrews 
 repaired it. In 1642 Bishop Wren 
 was arrested at Downham, and sent 
 hence to the Tower. There was a 
 large park round the palace. 
 
 The railway, before reaching 
 Manea, is carried across the two 
 great canals of drainage, the Old 
 Bedford R/'ver, made by Francis, Earl 
 of Bedford, in the reign of Charles I., 
 extending 21 m. from Earith to 
 Salter's Lode, and 70 ft. wide ; and 
 the Neio Bedford (or 100 ft.) Biver, 
 a later work, running jjarallel with 
 it from the Hermitage Bridge to 
 Denver Sluice, in Norfolk, designed 
 as a new channel for the waters of 
 the Ouse. Along the N. bank of 
 the Old, and the S. bank of the New 
 Bedford Rivers, two high and wide 
 banks of earth are made to protect 
 the S. and Middle Levels from 
 inundation. The long narrow strip 
 of land between the two rivers, having 
 an area of about 5000 acres, is left 
 to receive the winter floods. Al- 
 though in consequence uncultivated, 
 it produces gooil hay crops, and is 
 pastured by cattle and horses until 
 the winter floods descending lay it 
 G or 7 It. under water, so that the 
 communication across is kept up by 
 ferry-boats. N. of the Old Bedford 
 Biver extends the Middle Level, the 
 
Cambridge. Boute 4. — March — WMttlesea Mere. 
 
 427 
 
 largest division of the Bedford Level, 
 and containing more than 150,000 
 acres, drained by nnmerous steam- 
 engines and windmills. 
 
 93 m. Manea Stat. 
 
 The chapel at Manea was rebuilt 
 in 1791. 
 m. Stonea, before reaching 
 
 There is a station at 11| 
 
 15| m. Marcli Stat., where the rly. 
 crosses the new cut from "Whittlesea 
 Mere (see post). The branch rly. 
 from St. Ives to Wisbeach (see Ete. 
 5) here meets the present line. 
 (Inns at March ; Griffin ; White 
 Hart. Pop. in 1861 was 3600.) 
 
 The Ch. of St. Wendreda at March 
 is worth entering for the sake of its 
 nave roof, which is " one of the 
 richest of its class. It is very fine 
 Perp. open-work, with double ham- 
 mer-beams and a profusion of angels, 
 both on the ends of the hammer- 
 beams and on the corbels, which are 
 of wood, and carry a series of figures 
 in niches : the beams are all moulded, 
 and em-iched with rows of the Tudor 
 flower on the wall-plates and purlins. 
 It is in a very perfect state." — Arch. 
 Topog. of Camhridgeshire. The nave 
 arches are E. Eng., the aisles Perp., 
 the chancel modern and bad. Of St. 
 Wendreda herself nothing is known. 
 Her relics were conveyed from 
 March to Ely by Abbot ^Ifsi about 
 the year 1030, and were richly en- 
 shrined. They were carried by 
 certain monks of Ely to the battle 
 field of Assandun (see Essex, Ete. 5) 
 and were lost in that great deftat of 
 the English (' Liber Eliensis,' lib. ii.). 
 March boasts a fine avenue of elm 
 and other trees. The country round 
 is flat, with much wheat land. The 
 town, until 1855, was within the 
 parish of Doddington (see Ete. 5), 
 which, in that year, was divided into 
 7 rectories. 4 of which are within the 
 limits of March, and are known as 
 March Old Town, March St. Peter, 
 
 March St. John, and March St. 
 Mary. 
 
 24| m. Whittlesea Stat. The town 
 stands near the end of a tongue of 
 highland, of a blue oolite clay, which 
 extends from a little S.W. of Peter- 
 borough. 
 
 rt. St. Marifs Ch. stands high, and 
 its lofty tower and spire, visible from 
 the rly., form a well-known land- 
 mark far over the fens. The Ch. is 
 chiefly of Perp. date, and the tower 
 and spire constitute one of the most 
 richly-ornamented Perp. steeples in 
 England. All the faces of the tower 
 have rich and beautifully designed 
 ornamentation. The graceful manner 
 in which the spire is united to the 
 tower is especially worthy of notice. 
 The rest of the ch. is of no very high 
 interest. It belonged to Thorney 
 Abbey. The ch. was restored in 
 1862 by Mr. G. G. Scott; and the 
 chapel at the end of the S. aisle, 
 which had long served as a school- 
 room, was restored as a memorial of 
 Sir Harry Smith. The chapel con- 
 tains a life-sized bust of the general, 
 by G. G. Adams. Sir Harry Smith 
 was a native of Whittlesea, and is 
 bm'ied in the churchyard. 
 
 The lake called Whittlesea Mere, 
 6 m. S.W. from the town, in the 
 county of Huntingdon, covered 1570 
 acres of rich soil with a depth of 
 4 ft. of water; but by the scheme 
 of drainage adopted by the IMiddle 
 Level Commissioners, it has been 
 laid dry, the waters have been 
 drawn olf, and are transferred to the 
 sea at Lynn, by means of Mr. Walker's 
 new cut, 30 m. long. Eich crops now 
 wave on the spot where the men of 
 the present generation have fished, 
 boated, and skated, and another fen 
 lake is blotted out of the map. In 
 former days, when a flood drove fish 
 in great numbers from the mere into 
 the dykes and rivers, the local saying 
 was that " Whittlesea Mere (mare) 
 has folded " (foaled). 
 
428 
 
 Boiite 4. — Whittlesea — Tliorney Ahhey. Sect. IV.- 
 
 Whittlesea Wash^ as it is called, 
 is still covered with water for many 
 montlis of the year. It is about 7 m. 
 long, and varies in width from h m. 
 to \\ ni. Wild-fowl abound. The 
 land is chiefly used for pasturage. 
 
 At the end of the last centy. the 
 Whittlesea Washes were, in conse- 
 quence of the winter flood, laid 2 or 
 3 ft. deep under water, wliich during 
 the severe frost of Feb. 1799 was 
 frozen through to the ground. Upon 
 this other floods were pom-ed down 
 from the uplands, and were in turn 
 frozen, until the ice accumulated in 
 some places 12 or 13 ft. thick, and 
 did a great deal of mischief. The 
 improved outfalls of the Nene and 
 the Eau Brink Cut have entirely 
 rescued this district from such cala- 
 mities. 
 
 [^^hittlesea is the best i:)lace from 
 which to visit Tliorney — 5 m. N. — 
 once, as its name implies, a thorn- 
 covered island (A. -S. ?(7 = island) in 
 the midst of wide-spreading fens, 
 now thoroughly drained. Here was 
 one of the great Benedictine abbeys 
 — Ely, Peterborough, Eamsey, Thor- 
 ney, Crowland — which were the 
 chief glory of the old fen country. 
 Tliorney is now a somewhat pic- 
 turesque market-town, with a pop. 
 of 2219. It is indebted for its pros- 
 perity and its pleasant appearance to 
 the late Duke of Bedford, who almost 
 rebuilt the town, improved and kept 
 in repair 48 m. of road on his estate, 
 and planted avenues of trees along 
 them. 
 
 The abbey is said to have been 
 founded here about 662 by Saxulf, 
 first abbot of Peterborough, with 
 the consent of Wulfere of Mercia. 
 The place was then known as An- 
 carig = the ancer's (anchorite's) is- 
 land ; and it had, no doubt, been the 
 home of some solitary hermit. Saxulf s 
 monastery was destroyed by the Danes 
 in 870 — the year in which they burnt 
 Petei-borougii, Crowland, and Ely, 
 
 and killed King Edmund of East 
 Anglia. It was refounded for Bene- 
 dictines by Ethelwold, Bp. of Win- 
 chester, under the auspices of Eadgar, 
 A.D. 972. The island bid already 
 been named Thorney. The monastic 
 ch. possessed the bodies (accjuired for 
 it by Bp. Ethehvold) of numerous 
 English saints — among otliers, those 
 of Benedict Biscop and St. Botolf. 
 The holiness of the Benedictine life 
 at Thorney, the admirable orchards 
 and vineyards of the monks, their 
 skill in the cultivation of every sjwt 
 of firm land, and the beauty of their 
 buildings, are all dwelt on with fer- 
 vour by William of Malmesbury (' De 
 Gestis Pontificum,' 1. iv.) Thorney, 
 he asserts, might be last in respect 
 of its confined and narrow space, but 
 deserved praise and honour of the 
 first order. It was " paradisi simu- 
 lachrum, quod amcenitate jam cselos 
 ipsos imaginetur," "Nulla ibi vel 
 exigua terrse portio vacat ; hie in 
 pomiferas arbores terra se subigit ; 
 hie prsetexitur ager vineis, quas vel 
 per terram repunt, vel per bajulos 
 palos in celsum surgunt. Mutuum 
 certamen naturae et cultus, ut quod 
 
 obliviscitur ilia, producat iste 
 
 Solitudo ingens ad quietem datur 
 monachis, ut eo tenacius hrereant 
 superis, quo cestigatius mortales con- 
 spicantur. Faemina ibi si visitur 
 monstro habetur : maribus advenien- 
 tibus quasi angelis plauditur. Csete- 
 rum ibi nullus nisi momentanee cou- 
 versatm*. . . . Vere dixerim iusulam 
 ill am esse castitatis diversorium, 
 honestatis contubernium, diviuorum 
 philosophorum gymnasium." As 
 usual, the old ch. was taken down 
 and rebuilt soon after the Conquest. 
 Much of the new structure was 
 finished in 1098. It is said to have 
 been completed in llOS, and de- 
 dicated 20 years later. The patron- 
 age of the abbey was given by King 
 John to Eustace, Bishop of Ely, and 
 his successors. The abbots were 
 mitred. The last, Robert Blyth, 
 who surrendered the house, was 
 
CAlVIBRimE. 
 
 Boiiie 4. — TJiorney Ahheij. 
 
 429 
 
 Bishop of Down and Connor; and 
 his will (1547) directs his burial 
 before the altar in St. Mary's Ch, at 
 Whittlesea. According to Speed, 
 the revenue of the abbey at tlie Dis- 
 solution was 508Z. 12s. 5d. (Dugdale 
 makes it 411/. 12s. lid.). It was 
 the smallest of the fen-land monas- 
 teries. 
 
 In the time of Abbot Ryall (1457- 
 1464), Reginald Pecock, Bp. of Cl)i- 
 cliester, who had been convicted of 
 heresy, was sent to Thorney as a 
 prisoner — with instructions from the 
 Arclibp. of Canterbury as to his 
 treatment — the most cruel of which 
 ordered that he should have no pen, 
 ink, or paper, and no books, save a 
 mass-book, a Psalter, a legend, and 
 a Bible. The abbot was paid 117. 
 for fitting up a close apartment for 
 his unwilling guest. (For all that is 
 known of Bp. Pecock, see the excel- 
 lent Introduction to his ' Repressor of 
 over much blaming of the Clergy,' 
 edited by the Rev. Churchill Ba- 
 bington in the Rolls soiies. He seems 
 to have died, and probably to have 
 been buried, at Thorney, but this is 
 not certain.) 
 
 Many foundations of the abbey 
 may be traced; but the only re- 
 maining portion is the present ^Jares^ 
 Church — itself only a fragment of the 
 ch. of the abbey. The greater part 
 of the ch. "svas taken down soon after 
 the Reformation, and the side aisles 
 of the nave seem to have been re- 
 moved ill 1636, which date is to be 
 seen over the W. door. What re- 
 mains is the central division of the 
 nave of the Norman ch. ; with a west 
 front cliiefly of late character. Tiie 
 transept, which imitates work of the 
 Norman periud, has been added by 
 3Ir. Blore. Five pier arches are 
 perfect on either side of the nave, 
 and rest on piers alternately round 
 and shafted. The W. front has an 
 imposing appearance, but is a much 
 mixed composition. It is flanked by 
 massive square Norm, turrets, which 
 
 have octagonal Perp. terminations, 
 richly panelled. The W. window, 
 when perfect, nmst have been mag- 
 nificent. It is Perp., like the greater 
 part of the front. In 1840 and 1841 
 much was done to the ch. under the 
 direction of Mr. Blore. The interior 
 was refitted and re-arranged. The 
 transept was erected ; and a new 
 E. window, the glass in which repre- 
 sents the miracles of Becket (a choice 
 of subject which seems strange), and 
 which was designed from the famous 
 windows of CanterburyCathedral, was 
 inserted. A rich and elaborate altar- 
 screen was added. The whole was 
 done at the cost of the Duke of Bed- 
 ford. The site and the greater part 
 of the possessions of the abbey were 
 granted (SrdE.lw. VI.) to John, Earl 
 of Bedford. His successors have 
 done much for the place and for the 
 whole fen district. The draining of 
 the Great Level is due to Earl 
 Francis (see Iuii-od., 'Cambridge- 
 shire ; the Fens.' 
 
 In the ch. and church-yard are 
 many monuments for Wallon re- 
 fugees, — a colony of whom settled 
 here in the middle of the 17tli centy., 
 having been employed by the Earl 
 of Bedford in draining the fens. 
 
 The ' Red Book of Thorney,' the 
 most important register of the abbey, 
 is in the possession of the Earl of 
 Westmoreland. Extracts from it, 
 bearing on the building of the Norm. 
 ch., will be found in Dugdale. 
 
 The old fens round Thorney are 
 now for the most jiart arable and 
 pasture land; and the state of this 
 country encircling the "Isle" is far 
 more worthy of admiration than even 
 the convent of the Isle itself in the 
 days of William of Malmesbury . The 
 whole is the work of the house of 
 Russell. The drainage is very com- 
 plete, since improvements made in 
 the outfall of the waters through the 
 Nene in 1831 draw off the floods 
 without the aid of windmill or 
 stf am.] 
 
430 
 
 Itoiite ^.-'^Camhridge to WisbeacJi. 
 
 Sect. lY. 
 
 Proceeding onward from Whittle- i 
 sea, the rly. gradually approaches the 
 higlier ground on the W,, crowned 
 with the eh. spire of the village of 
 Standground, the head-quarters of j 
 Oliver, during a part of the Parlia- 
 mentary struggle, rt. is seen Peter- 
 borough Ciithedral. The line crosses 
 the river None on a timber bridge, 
 enters Northamptonshire, and arrives 
 at 
 
 29f m. Peterborough. A superb 
 view of the famous west front of the 
 cathedral is gained as the city is 
 approached. For Peterborough, see 
 the Handhooh for Northamptonshire. 
 
 ROUTE 5. 
 
 CAMBRIDGE TO WISBEACH, BY ST. 
 IVES, CHATTERIS, AND MARCH. 
 
 {Branch of Great Eastern Ely., 38 m.) 
 
 The sole objects of interest on this 
 route, as generally in Cambridge- 
 shire, are the churches. The most 
 important are Histon ; St. Michael's, 
 Long Stanton; Swavesey; Over; Wil- 
 lingham ; and St. Peter's, Wisbeach. 
 At 
 
 2f m. Histon Stat, is reached. 
 The Church (St. Andrew) has a 
 Per[). nave, with E. Eng. chancel and 
 transepts. The triplet windows in 
 the S. transept have very rich mould- 
 ings. In the N. transept an E. Eng. 
 arcade runs round the N. and W. 
 sides. In each transept is a very 
 fine double piscina. There were 
 
 formerly two parishes here, which 
 have long been united. The two 
 chm'ches stood in the same church- 
 yard. The church of Histon St. 
 Etlieldreda was pulled down by Sir 
 Francis Hinde, about 1600, and the 
 materials used for building his house 
 at Madingley. 
 
 [A little before Histon, on rt,, is 
 Impingfon, long the seat of a branch 
 of the Pepys family ; where occurred, 
 Feb. 179r>, the celebrated case of 
 Elizabeth Woodcock, who, in return- 
 ing from Cambridge market, was 
 caught in a snow-drift, and remained 
 alive there, without food, nearly 8 
 days and nights. In Impington 
 CJiurch are bits of carved screen- 
 work ; a brass of Sir John Burgoyne, 
 and lady, 1525 ; and three black- 
 letter volumes of Fox's 'Martyrs,' 
 chained to a stall in the chancel.J 
 
 6f m. Oahington Cliurch is chiefly 
 E. Eng., but of no great importance. 
 (The manor belonged to Crowland ; 
 and, from a "tithe cause" recorded 
 in the register of that abbey, it ap- 
 pears that, in 1315, there were living 
 in this parish one person aged 120, 
 2 upwards of 100, and 2 upwards of 
 90.) More interesting is 
 
 9^ m. Long Stanton CStat.), where 
 are two churches : — All Saints, late 
 Dec. (in it is a " columbarium " for 
 the Hatton family, long proprietors 
 here ; the first Hatton of Long 
 Stanton was a cousin of Sir Chris- 
 topher Hatton) ; and St. Michael's, 
 chiefly E. Eng. In the latter the 
 very fine double piscina, the chancel 
 arch, and an E. Eng. chest should be 
 noticed. The church is thatched. 
 The bishops of Ely had a palace here, 
 in which Bishop Cox entertained 
 Queen Elizabeth in 1564. 
 
 [In Rampton Church, 2 m. N.E., is 
 an effigy, temp. Hen. III., for a 
 knight of the De Lisle family, w^hich 
 long possessed the manor.] 
 
Cambridge. BoiUe 5. — Swavesey — Over — St. Ives. 
 
 431 
 
 Hi m. Swavesey (Stat.). Here the 
 church is E. Eng., with Perp. alter- 
 ations. It is large and fine, and 
 deserves a visit. Oekley was vicar 
 of Swavesey, and wrote here his 
 * History of the Saracens.' ^ m. 
 S. W. of"^ the church is the site of a 
 manor-house, or '• castle," as it is 
 called, said to have been a residence 
 of the Zouches, lords of Swavesey, in 
 the 14th centy. 
 
 At Over, 1| m. N. of Swavesey, is 
 a fine Dec. Church, with a good open 
 roof. " The S. aisle is very fine 
 Dec., with wide windows, having 
 arcades over them, with good E. Eng. 
 banded shafts. The S. porch is 
 remarkably fine Dec, having good 
 doors, windows, and pinnacles. The 
 parapet af this aisle and porch is 
 battlemented with a rich cornice, 
 having the ball-flower and leaf. . . . 
 The chancel is a curious mixture of 
 E. Eng. and Perp. work, and appears 
 to have been rebuilt in tlie Perp. style, 
 with some of the old E. Eng. portions 
 inserted. At the back of the chancel- 
 screen are six stalls. The tower is 
 E. Eng., with a lofty fine early Dec. 
 spire. . . . Over the W. door is a 
 curious sculpture of the Assumption, 
 and the arms of Eamsey Abbey." — 
 Arch. Topog. of Cambridgeshire. The 
 manor of Over was given to Ramsey 
 Abbey by Ednoth, Bishop of Dor- 
 chester, 1004. 
 
 [3 m. E. of Over is Willingham, 
 where is another fine Dec. Church. 
 The vestry on the N. side of the 
 chancel is the chief point to be 
 noticed. It is original, and has a 
 high-pitched stone roof, supported 
 on stune rib arches, with open foli- 
 ated work. (The exterior is engraved 
 in the ' Glossary of Architecture,' the 
 interior in Lysons.) The manor be- 
 longed to the convent of Ely. Mucli 
 Cottenham cheese is made in the 
 parish of Willingham.] 
 
 The river Ouse is here the boun- 
 
 dary of the county, and, crossing it, 
 the rly. reaches 
 
 14f m. St. Ives, in Huntingdon- 
 shire. (For a fuller notice of this 
 place, see the Handbook for that 
 county.) It is chiefly remarkable as 
 having been for five years (1631-1636) 
 the residence of Oliver Cromwell, 
 who "rented certain grazing lands" 
 there. "The little town, of some- 
 what dingy aspect, and very 
 quiescent, except on market-days, 
 runs parallel to the shore of the 
 Ouse. . . At the upper or N.W. ex- 
 tremity stands the church, Crom- 
 well's old fields being at the opposite 
 extremity. The church, from its 
 churchyard, looks down into the very 
 river, which. . . . flows here, you 
 cannot, without study, tell in wbich 
 direction, fringed with grass, reedy 
 
 herbage, and bushes The 
 
 steeple is visible from several miles' 
 distance ; a sharp, high spire, piercing- 
 far up from among the willow trees." 
 — Carlyle. Cromwell's barn and his 
 house are still pointed out; but 
 " Tradition makes a sad blui- of 
 Oliver's memory in his native 
 country. We know, and shall know, 
 only this for certain here, that Oliver 
 farmed part or whole of these Slepe 
 Hall lands, over which the human 
 feet can still walk with assurance. 
 . . . . Here, of a certainty, Oliver 
 did walk and look about him ha- 
 bitually during those five years ; a 
 man studious of many temjDoral and 
 many eternal thin<.'S. His cattle 
 grazed here, his ploughs tilled here, 
 the heavenly skies and infernal 
 abysses overarched and underarched 
 him here." — Carlyle. 
 
 Passing the station at 
 23i m. Somerdtam, the rly. soon 
 re-enters Cambridgeshire, and gains 
 
 25.^ m. Chatteris: a large village, 
 with a Dec. church of no yerj high 
 interest. There was a convent of 
 Benedictine nuns here, founded. 
 
432 Boute 5. — Chatteris — Doddington — Wisbeach. Sect. IV. 
 
 circ. 980, by Ahven, wife of Athel- 
 stan, Earl of the E. Angles, and 
 mother of Ailwen the Ealdorman, 
 founder of Kamsey Abbey. The 
 house was completely destroyed by 
 fire between 1304 and 1310 ; was 
 rebuilt, and the church re-dedicated, 
 in 1352. The present manor-house 
 (in the village) stands within the 
 old walls of the convent ; but there 
 are few remains. At Honey, a farm 
 on the boundary of the parish, to- 
 ward Manea, are some traces of an 
 ancient building, supposed to have 
 been the chapel in which Huna, the 
 chaplain of St. Etheldreda — who 
 was present at her death, and who 
 buried her — was himself interred. 
 He retired after her death to an 
 island in the marshes, " qua? ejus 
 nomine Huneya vocatur," where he 
 died, and where his tomb became 
 the scene of so many miracles that 
 his remains were, at last, trans- 
 lated to Thorney. (Thos. Eliens. 
 ap. Wliarton, 'Ang.-Sax.' i. 600.) 
 
 The rly., traversing the fens, 
 crosses, at a distance of 2 m. N. of 
 Chatteris, the ditch called the 40- 
 foot or Vermuydens Drain — from 
 Cornelius Vermuyden, the Dutch- 
 man, who, under the Earl of Bed- 
 ford, did so much for the drainage 
 of the fens in the early part of the 
 17th centy. The tourist is now in 
 the heart of the fen country— a 
 region which, if not picturesque, 
 is of very great interest, from the 
 engineering and draining works, 
 which have converted it from a 
 wilderness to its present flourishing 
 condition. A full description of 
 these works, and a general notice of 
 the fens, will be found in the Intro- 
 duction, ' Cambridgeshire.' 
 
 29| m. Wimhlinfjton Stat. 1 m. 
 S. is Doddington Church, chiefly 
 Pcrp., but hardly important enough 
 to detain the tourist. It has lately 
 been restored, and contains some 
 modern memorial stained windows. 
 The Peyton vault is under the 
 
 chancel. The living (a rectory in 
 the gift of the Peyton family) was, 
 until recently, the richest in Eng- 
 land, worth, at least, 7306Z. a year. 
 The parish, containing 38,000 acres, 
 was the largest in the county ; 
 but, by the Act of 1855, it was 
 divided into seven rectories — Ben- 
 week, Doddington, Wimblington, 
 March Old Town, M. St. Peter, 
 M. St. John, M. St. Mary. The 
 present value of the Doddington 
 rectory is 1700Z. The manor of 
 Doddington was one of the ancient 
 estates of the church of Ely. The 
 bishops had a house here, in which 
 Bishop Hugh Balsham died in 1280. 
 In 1600 it was alienated by Bishop 
 Hetou to the Crown, and soon after- 
 wards became the property of the 
 Peytons, who had already settled 
 here for some time, as lessees to the 
 bishop. At 
 
 30J m. the line reaches March 
 (see lite. 4), where it is crossed by 
 the branch rly. from Ely to Peter- m 
 borough. Still proceeding through 
 the dreary fen country, it gains 
 
 38 m. Wisbeach (Ouse beach). 
 (Pop. of parish, in 1861, 9218. Inns : 
 Rose and Crown ; White Lion. 
 Midland and Great Eastern Elys. 
 have stations here, one N., the other 
 S., of tlie town.) This is the 
 principal market-town in this part 
 of the county, and, with the excep- 
 tion of Cambridge, the most thriving 
 and most populous place in it. 
 The corn-market here is important ; 
 and great quantities of grain are 
 annually exported from Wisbeach. 
 The navigable river Nene makes 
 Wisbeach a port ; and there is a 
 branch rly. to Wisbeach harbour. 
 The Wisbeach Canal aflords con- 
 tinuous water communication, by 
 the Ouse, with Cambridge, Hertford, 
 and London. The Nene intersects 
 the town, and the thoroughfares 
 along it are known as N. and S. 
 Brinks. Vessels of 400 tons can 
 
CAMBRiDGiE. Boute b. —Wisheacli Costle and Cliuvches. 433 
 
 enter the port. There is much trade 
 in timber and other " imports " 
 from the Baltic ; and besides wheat, 
 the exports are various, salt from 
 Worcestershire being among them. 
 A castle was built here by the Con- 
 queror, which is said to have been 
 destroj'ed by the great flood of 1236, 
 when the whole surrounding country 
 was laid under water, and the town 
 sufiered greatly — as it did frequently 
 before the draining of the fens. On 
 the site of the Conqueror's castle 
 the bishops of Ely, who possessed 
 the manor from a very early period, 
 erected a second ca>tle, which was 
 one of their principal residences. It 
 was rebuilt by Bishop Morton in 
 1480 ; and Bishop Alcock died in it 
 in 1500. John Feckenham, Queen 
 Mary's Abbot of Westminster, was 
 confined in Wisbeach Castle for many 
 years, after the accession of Elizabeth, 
 and died here in 1585. On the sale 
 of church lands under Cromwell, the 
 castle was bought by Secretary 
 Thurlow, who built a house on its 
 site after a design by Inigo Jones. 
 This has disappeared in its turn, and 
 the site has been surrounded by 
 houses. 
 
 Bishop Morton, towards the end 
 of the 15th centy., cut a deep channel 
 between Wisbeach and Peterborough, 
 for the sake of water-carriage be- 
 tween those places. It was not 
 found to answer as well as was an- 
 ticipated, but it was the most 
 important undertaking towards the 
 draining of the fen country before 
 the 17th centy. (See Introduction, 
 ' Cambridgeshu'e.') 
 
 Of the two Wisbeach Churches, 
 that of >S^^. Mary is late Perp., and i 
 poor. In its churchyard is buried I 
 Sir Harry Jones, the hero of Aliwal, ' 
 who was a native of this place. St. j 
 Peter's Church deserves a visit. The 
 chancel is Dec. The nave has Norm. I 
 arches on the N. side, and is other- j 
 wise Perp. ; the tower very good Perp. I 
 In the S. aisle is the much worn ! 
 
 \_Essex, (fee] 
 
 but interesting brass of Thomas de 
 Brauuslone, constable of Wisbeach 
 Castle, 1-iOl. The church has been 
 restored. There is a Museum at 
 Wisbeach, in which are preserved 
 many Roman coins, vases, &c., found 
 in the neighbourhood. It must be 
 remembered that the draining and 
 embanking of the marshland, E. of 
 Wisbeach, were Roman works. 
 
 [The churches of Emneth (in Nor- 
 folk), 3 m. S.E. of Wisbeach, and 
 Leverington, IJ m. N., are fine, and 
 worth notice. Emneth Church, dedi- 
 cated to St. Edmund, has a Perp. 
 nave, with a good 0]3en roof, and a 
 chancel with a fine E. Eng. triplet 
 at the E. end, with two late Norm, 
 arches on each side, opening into 
 Perp. chapels. The tower is lofty, 
 plain Perp. Leverington Church has 
 a Perp. nave with open roof; the 
 cliancel E. Eng., with E. Eng. 
 sedilia, and a Dec. E. window. The 
 font is very rich Perp., with figures 
 within canopies in the upjDer part, 
 and in the stem. The tower is very 
 fine E. Eng. ; and the S. porch early 
 Dec, with a parvise chamber above 
 it. On the roof of this porch is a 
 ridge of open stonework, with a run- 
 ning pattern. There are some frag- 
 ments of painted glass, and a carved 
 oak reading-desk. In Leverington 
 ] arish is one of the largest distil- 
 leries of peppermint in England, and 
 the plant is extensively cultivated.] 
 
 In the tract of country between 
 Wisbeach, Downliam Market, and 
 Lynn, lying outside the edge of the 
 oolite, the student of Gothic archi- 
 tecture will find much to interest 
 him in the churches, which are of 
 good size and great beauty. The 
 most important are Walsoken, West 
 Walton, Walpole St. Peter's, Ter- 
 riugton St. Clement's, and Tylney 
 All Saints. Notices of all will be 
 found in Norfolk, Rte. 8. The 
 numerous rivers and canals inter- 
 secting the district afford great facili- 
 
 u 
 
434 Boute 6. — London to Cambridge by Hitcldn. Sect. lY. 
 
 ties for the transport of stone and 
 timber. 
 
 Formerly tlie "Baily of Marsh- 
 land," as the ague used to be called 
 here, placed the stranger's health 
 in jeopardy ; but the ditches, with 
 "which the country is everywhere 
 intersected, are now so generally 
 drained that the traveller runs no 
 risk ; and the general health of the 
 residents is not materially impaired. 
 The advance of civilisation has de- 
 jDosed the Baily of Marshland, yet 
 for a long time after the improve- 
 ment was made the poor inhabitants 
 continued in a state of turbulent dis- 
 content at being deprived of the wild 
 fowl which they used to shoot or 
 decoy on the ponds and marshes. 
 Drayton's lines aptly describe the 
 improved state of cultivation here, 
 though for " seats'' it would be more 
 correct to read " churches : " — 
 
 " Scarce is there any soil, by any river side, 
 Wtiose turf so batfull is, or bears so deep a 
 
 swathe ; 
 Nor is there any marsh, in Britain's isle, 
 
 that hath 
 So many goodly seats." 
 
 Beaupr^ Hall, 4 m., has a fine 
 gateway, with some picturesque 
 groups of chimneys. 
 
 6 m. on the old Nen at Outwell, is 
 a fine church and a curious old 
 rectory-house of brick, with a de- 
 tached tower. 
 
 1 m. 1., on a branch road from 
 Outwell, is Vpwell Church, with a 
 tower deserving notice, and a good 
 open wood roof, supported by angels 
 bearing the symbols of the Passion, 
 On the S. side is the stone turret and 
 stair leading formerly to the rood- 
 loft. There are some brasses of 
 priests, and one of "William Mow- 
 bray, 1428. 
 
 EOUTE 6. 
 
 LONDON TO CAMBRIDGE, BY HITCHfM 
 AND ROYSTON. 
 
 (A branch of the Grea;t Eastern 
 Ely, joins the Great Northern line at 
 Hitchin, and runs thence to Cam- 
 bridge by Eoyston. By this route 
 the distance from London is 58j 
 miles.) 
 
 For the line from London' to Eoys- 
 ton, see Handbook for Hertfordshire. 
 At 402 ni- from London we reach 
 Eoyston {Inns: Bull, Eed Lion), a 
 town of 2O00 inhabitants, on the 
 boundary line between the counties- 
 of Herts and Cambridge. 
 
 Eoyston stands at the junction of 
 Icenhilde and Erming Streets. The 
 former ran from the Norfolk coast 
 by Thetford to Dunstable, and 
 thence westward; the latter ran 
 from London, by Cheshunt, to Eoys- 
 ton, and thence ftdlowed the line of 
 the present road to Godmanchester 
 (Durolipons.) It is uncertain, how- 
 ever, whether Eoyston itself was ever 
 the site of a Eoman town. Stukeley 
 declared that it had been '* a place 
 of great resort " in the British time, 
 and was afterwards an important 
 Eoman station. Dr. Guest, on the 
 other hand, regards it as only dating 
 from the 12th centy. Proof of its 
 Eoman antiquity was found by 
 Stukeley in a curious ancient Cave, 
 in Melbourne - street, excavated in 
 the chalk rock, and capable of hold- 
 ing about 30 persons. It is entered 
 through a long narrow passage, and 
 its walls are carved with rude images 
 of saints and Scriptural personages. 
 This cave was discovered accidentally 
 in 1472. There is no doubt that it 
 was used as a subterranean chapel 
 in the 13th and 14th cents. ; but ii 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 IiGute 6. — Moyston. 
 
 435 
 
 seems, in fact, to have been an an- 
 cient bone-shaft— such as are found 
 on many Eonian sites — enlarged by 
 degrees to its present dimensions. 
 Many bone-shafts exist in the town, 
 akiug the sides of the old " streets," 
 and some have been opened. They 
 all exhibit the same peculiarities of 
 rude workmanship, — an extremely 
 small d'ameter, and footholds down 
 the shafts on either side. One was 
 nearly 100 feet deep. All had been 
 filled up with bones of a variety of 
 animals, shells, and other refuse. 
 These facts seem to prove that there 
 was an early settlement here, which 
 perhaps continued through the 
 Eoma'i period. One hypothesis has 
 created a lady " Roesia," a supposed 
 wife of Geofiiy de Mandeville, Earl 
 of Essex, to give name to the town, 
 and has kindly bestowed upon her 
 this cave as a residence and burial- 
 place ; but the grave seems only a 
 continuation of the shaft below the 
 floor of the oratory. 
 
 King James built himself a house 
 here, used to hunt at Royston, and 
 to make himself, with his purveyors, 
 no small nuisance to the county folk. 
 " One day, atlSxed to the collar of his 
 favourite hound, he found a paper, 
 'Good Mr. Jowler, we pray you 
 speak to the king, for he hears you 
 eveiy day, and so doth he not us, 
 that it will please his Majesty to go 
 back to London, for else the country 
 will be undone ; all our provision is 
 spent already, and we are not able to 
 entertain him longer.'" — Lodge. 
 
 Here, in the royal presence, Robt. 
 Car, Earl of Somerset, was arrested 
 for the murder of Sir Thomas Over- 
 bury. The king, at the moment of 
 the arrest, had been leaning on his 
 favourite's shoulder and as he left 
 the apartment, said, " Now the de'il 
 go with thee, for I will never see thy 
 face any more." — Cokeys Detection. 
 Charles I. removed from Hampton 
 Court to Royston, before setting up 
 his standard at Nottingham. In 
 1647 he was brought here from New- 
 
 market as a prisoner, and was lodged 
 in his own house for two days. The 
 ai-niy under Cromwell lay then at 
 Triplow Heath (now enclosed), about 
 6 m. N. of Royston, and v>'as pre- 
 paring to march towards London. 
 The site of this palace is still pointed 
 out, but there are few remnins of it. 
 
 The church contains some monu- 
 ments (one to Lord Scales) and 
 brasses, the most important of which 
 is for William Taverham, rector of 
 Thurfield, 1432. 
 
 This is the land of maltsters, as is 
 evident from the numerous hoods 
 rising above the town. 
 
 Mr. J. Edw. Fordham, of Melbourne 
 Bury, possesses a select collection of 
 Paintings of the English, Spanish, 
 and Dutch schools, and many fine 
 Draivings, by Turner and the other 
 chief artists of the modern English 
 school. 
 
 The tower of Melbourne Church, rt. , 
 between Royston and Meldreth, is 
 fine Perp. The rest of the church 
 ranges from E. Eng. to Perp. 
 
 [Between Royston and the Cam- 
 bridgeshire border at Known's 
 Folly, the Icenhilde Way passes over 
 an outlying range of the downs 
 called Burlow's Hill, remarkable for 
 a number of tumuli of the earliest 
 construction. Thence the Icenhilde 
 proceeds to IcMeton, " an ancient 
 little city," says Camden, — no doubt 
 the site of a British town, — and in 
 Dr. Guest's judgment, indicating by 
 its name " the town or homestead of 
 the Icen " — and " the first inhabited 
 place within the borders of the Iceni 
 which was reached by the traveller 
 in his progress eastward along the 
 Ickneild Street." (lioman Ways, 
 ' Archseol. Journal,' xiv.) A parallel 
 or " loop line " accompanies the 
 main line of the Icenhilde for great 
 part of its course, and is especially 
 noticeable between Kneesworth (2 
 m. N. of Royston; and Ashwell, just 
 beyond the Hertfordshire border. 
 
 u 2 
 
436 
 
 Itoute 7. — Boysfon to Huntingdon. Sect. IV. 
 
 Here it is called the "Asliwell 
 Street." Many Roman remains (as 
 at Litlington, see Ete. 7) have been 
 found on it ; and at Ashwell a short 
 branch runs up to Arbury Banks, a 
 British camp of considerable mag- 
 nitude. These " loop lines suggest 
 the precautions of warlike and bar- 
 barous races, ever watchful towards 
 an enemy, and making preparations 
 either for surprise or for retreat, as 
 the occasion might require." (For 
 general remarks on the Icenhilde 
 Way, and its connection with the 
 Iceni, see Introcl. ' East Auglia.'] 
 
 The rly. has stations at 
 
 48^ m. MeldretJi (church of various 
 dates ; tower Trans. -Norm., with a 
 good arch toward the nave). 
 
 50 J m. ShepretJi. 
 
 51 g m. Foxton; and 
 
 53| m. Harston. 
 
 From Harston the church of Bar- 
 ringfon, 1 m. S.W., may be visited. 
 This is E. Eng. (nave-arches), Dec. 
 (chancel windows, except the E., 
 which is Perp.), and Perp. (nave 
 clerestory and roof). There is a good 
 deal worth attention in the church, 
 but the most striking feature is the 
 S. doorway — fine E. Eng., much en- 
 riched. The door itself is Dec. wood- 
 work. 
 
 HasUngfidd Church, is 1 J m. N.W. 
 of Harston Stat. This is Norm., 
 E. Eng., and Dec, and contains 
 some good examples. The carved 
 bosses of the nave and aisle roofs are 
 fine. The tower is good early Perp., 
 very massive, with octagonal corner- 
 turrets springing from buttresses. 
 In the church is the monument of 
 Dr. Wendy (d. 1560), a great bene- 
 factor to Caius College, Cambridge. 
 St. Mary's Abbey, at York, had an 
 estate here, which, on the Disso- 
 lution, was bought by Sir Thomas 
 Wendy. His family retained it till 
 about 1710. 
 
 Harlton, 1 m. W. of Haslingfield, 
 stands pleasantly amoni;- trees. The 
 church is late Dec, with lofty nave 
 arcade, a good E. window, with 
 niches at the side, and a stone 
 reredos. 
 
 58| m. Cambridge (see Rte. 1). 
 
 EOUTE 7. 
 
 ROYSTON TO HUNTINGDON. 
 
 {Turnpike Boad, 20 m.) 
 
 The road takes the line of the old 
 Erming Street from Royston to Hunt- 
 ingdon. Close to the latter town, on 
 the rt. bank of the Ouse, is God- 
 manchester, the ancient Durolipons. 
 The "street" (or rather the ford on 
 it at Arrington bridge) gives name 
 to the hundred of Ermingford (or 
 Armingford), through which it 
 passes. This Ermingford is the 
 " Earmingaford " — the " ford of the 
 Farmings " — given by Edgar to 
 the monks of Ely; and Dr. Guest 
 ('Roman Ways') suggests that the 
 Farmings are the *' men of the Farm, 
 or fen land — the Norse eorme = bog- 
 earth, taking place of the A.-S. 
 gyrwe = a fen. Cambridgeshire, he 
 adds, was the very centre of the 
 Danish settlements in this part of 
 England during the 9th century. 
 
 Leaving Eoyston, the road crosses 
 the country of low and open chalk 
 hills which range along the northern 
 limits of Herts and Essex, and enters 
 on the blue gault chiefly prevailing 
 
Cambridge. Boute 7. — Litlington — Guilden Morden, 
 
 437 
 
 in this S.E. part of Cambridgeshire. 
 On reaching the chalk downs above 
 Royston, the straight line of the 
 Erming Street is seen descending 
 into the fen country, which stretches 
 away northward as far as the eye 
 can reach. 
 
 [The extreme S.E. comer of Cam- 
 bridgeshire contains little of interest. 
 (At Basinghourne, 1 m, off the road 
 1. (2 m. from Eoyston), is a Ch., 
 which is chiefly Dec, the chancel 
 being especially good. From an old 
 book of churchwardens' accounts it 
 appears that ' The Playe of the Holy 
 Martyr Seynt George' was repre- 
 sented in this village in 1511, on St. 
 Margaret's Day, with much solemnity. 
 The neiglibouring villages contri- 
 buted toward the expenses, and the 
 parish bought 6 sheep and 3 calves, 
 besides chickens " for the gentle- 
 men." 1 m. S. W. of Basinghourne 
 is Litlington, adjoining the line of 
 the Ash well Street (see lite. 6) where, 
 in 1821, some remarkable Roman 
 relics were discovered. Tliese were 
 found between the site of Litlington 
 ch. and the Ashwell Street, on strips 
 of unenclosed land long known as 
 "Heaven's walls," and supposed to 
 be haunted. The remains were 
 those of an " Ustrinum " — a walled 
 enclosure in which the remains of 
 the ordinary dead were burned and 
 their ashes enclosed in urns of 
 earthenware — without much cost or 
 ceremony. In this c^se the " Ustri- 
 num " was a square of about 390 ft. 
 There were great heaps of wood- 
 ashes at the S.E. and S.W. angles of 
 the enclosure, no doubt the remains 
 of the funeral piles. Numerous urns 
 and vases were found, including 
 household vessels of glass, in which 
 the relics from the pile had been 
 gathered. These are now in the 
 library of Clare College, Cambridge, 
 to which society the estate belongs. 
 A little N. of the Ustrinum are the 
 foundations of a villa (see ' Ar- 
 chseologia,' vol. sxvi.). Litlington 
 
 " Sheen," or spring-head, doubtless 
 supplied the small Roman fort, now 
 called Limlow Hill, ^ m. to the S. 
 3 m. S.E. of Basinghourne is the 
 Ch. of Steeple Morden, of which only 
 the nave, of E. Eng. character, re- 
 mains. In the reign of Jas. 11. the 
 tower fell, and destroyed the chancel. 
 The Ch. of Guilden Morden, 1 m. N., 
 is worth a visit. The chancel is 
 Perp., with a modern E. window, 
 and the original sacristy on the N. 
 side ; the nave, late E. Eng., except 
 the three easternmost arches on the 
 S. side, which are Dec. and later. 
 The aisle windows are Perp. inser- 
 tions. The clerestory is Perp. The 
 tower is fine and massive Ferp. The 
 most interesting feature of this ch., 
 however, is its very perfect rood- 
 loft, Dec. with slender banded shafts, 
 painted ; but no doubt in fac-simile 
 of its original colouring. On the 
 front are figui'es of St. Ethelwold 
 and St. Edmund. The whole struc- 
 ture stands out into the nave full 
 7 ft. from the chancel, and on each 
 side of passage under it into the 
 chancel are two of these verses : — 
 
 " Ad mortem diram, Ihesu, de me cape 
 
 curam : 
 Vitam venturam post mortem redJe 
 
 securam. 
 Fac me confessum, rogo te Deus, ante 
 
 recessum ; 
 Et post decessum celo mihi dirige gres- 
 
 sum." 
 
 No name appears. The screen may 
 perhaps have been erected, or may 
 have been painted, by a monk of 
 Barnwell Abbey, close to Cambridge, 
 to which house the ch. belonged.)J 
 
 At 5 m. from Royston — (at Arring- 
 ton, a corruption of Ermington- 
 bridge, in the midst of some of the 
 richest pastures in the county) — the 
 Erming Street crosses a high-road 
 running from Cambridge. TJiis fol- 
 lows the line of a Ibranch of the 
 Akeman Street, which passed from 
 Cambridge to Cirencester. Soon after 
 crossing this road, the enclosures 
 
438 
 
 Boute 7. — Wimjyole Park: Pictures. Sect. IV 
 
 of Wimpolo appear rt., and at 61 
 m. from Knyaton the touri.st reaches 
 Wimpole Park (Earl of HarJwicke), 
 where are some interesting 2J^'c- 
 tnres. John Ciiicheley of Highani 
 Ferrers, great-nephew of the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, settU^d at Wim- 
 pole in the reigu of Hen. VI. From 
 him the estate descended to Sir 
 Thomas Cliiclieley, Master of the 
 Ordnance in the reign of Chas 11., 
 and this Sir Tliomas, in 1686, sold it 
 to Sir John Cutler. Wimpole sub- 
 sequently passed into the hands of 
 Edward Harley, Earl of Oxford, who 
 sold it in 1739 to Philip, Earl of 
 Hardwicke, the Lord Ciiancellor. 
 The house is of brick. The central 
 part was built by Sir Thomas Ciiiche- 
 ley, about 1632 ; the wings were 
 added by Lord Oxford, and consider- 
 able alterations and additions were 
 made by Lord Chancellor HardwiclvC. 
 Wimpole is one of the few places 
 in this county which di:-play really 
 fine timber. The paik contains about 
 300 acres, and stretching away from 
 the front, of the house is an avenue 
 21 m. in length. Of the pictures the 
 most imjiortant are : — 
 
 Large Drawing Room. —Lord Hard- 
 wicke, by Sir Thomas Lawrenre. 
 Here are also two children in marble, 
 by Ranch, of Berlin. 
 
 Small Dining Room. — Rnhens: Two 
 old men. " Powerful and clear." 
 Portrait of the Marquis Spinola, in 
 rich armour. ''Of refined and ani- 
 mated coiiception." — Waageu. (The 
 passages within inverted commas are 
 all from Dr. Waagen's ' Treasures of 
 xirt.'j Zucchero : Sir Walter Ra- 
 leigh — young — half-length, in silver 
 armour. " The resolute charac- 
 ter is well expressed in his deli- 
 cate features."' Vandijck : Portrait 
 of David Pyckait, the painter. Of 
 the frequent repetitions of this por- 
 trait the best is in the galltry at 
 Dresden. A male poi trait in armour, 
 and two of unknown ladies. Sebas- 
 
 tian del Piomho: Man in a black 
 dress. " The serious and dignified 
 individuality is worthily conceived." 
 Jan van Ravestyn : Spelman, the 
 antiquary. Dated 1628, and be- 
 queathed by his heir to Lord Chan- 
 cellor Hardwicke. "Judging from 
 the style of the very truthful con- 
 ception, and the clear and soft paint- 
 ing, I am inclined to ascribe it to 
 this painter." But Waagen calls Sir 
 Henry Spelnian, bom at Congham, 
 in Norfolk, in 1561, " the learned 
 Dutchman, Heinrich Spelman," and 
 this curious mistake may have led 
 him to assign the portrait to Jan 
 van Ravestyn. Spelman wears a 
 yellow cone-shaped cap, edged with 
 lace. The stern severe countenance 
 well befits the author of the ' E^say 
 of Sacrilege,' but is not prepossess- 
 ing. 
 
 The Gallery. — Cornelius Jansen (?) : 
 Portrait of Ben Jonson. Unlcnown : 
 Portrait of Tycho Bra he, the astro- 
 nomer. Vandyck: Portnutsof Hen- 
 derakas du Booys and wife. " Both • 
 are refined in composition, and of 
 broad and masterly painting in a 
 subdued brownish tone." Alonzo 
 Cano: Portrait of Lope de Vega. 
 " The noble and thoughtful features 
 are admirably rendered in delicate 
 drawing and in powerful colouring." 
 Annihale Carracci : Poi trait of a 
 monk. 
 
 Room next the Gallery. — Palma 
 Vecchio: Virgin and Child, the 
 Archangel jMiehael behind. *' The 
 heads of the Virgin and Saint of 
 noble character and expression." 
 Cnyp: View on the IMaas. /. H. 
 Koi'iioeh : An agitated Sea. Tenters : 
 Temptation of St. Anthony. Sculp- 
 ture and flowers round by Ferdi- 
 nand van Kessel. 
 
 Next Room. — Philip Wouvermans : 
 A Man on a Grey Horse. " A very 
 small but delicate picture." 
 
 Next Room.^ Peter Neef : Two 
 
Cambridge. Houte 7. — Bourne — Caxton — Childerlcij. 
 
 439 
 
 Interiors of Churches. " Veiy good 
 pictures." Walker : Portrait of Gene- 
 ral Lambert, in armour. 
 
 Large Dining Boom. — Sir Joshua 
 lieynolds : The Mar(|uis of Eooking- 
 ham, in robes as K.G. Lord Hard- 
 wicke, son of the Chancellor. Other 
 pictures of interest in the house 
 are— Ed. VI., aged 8 (dated 1546), 
 ascribed to Holbein; Queen Eliza- 
 beth (half-length, youug) ; Henry, 
 Prince of Wales (eldest son of Jas. L) ; 
 Lsaac Barrow, the divine, Master 
 of Trinity College; and Matthew 
 Prior, a frequent visitor at Wimpole 
 in Lord Oxford's time. 
 
 The library is extensive, and a 
 large collection of Lord Chancellor 
 Hardwicke's " state papers " is pre- 
 served here. There is a chapel, 
 painted by Sir John Thornhill. 
 
 Wimpole Cli., which stands in the 
 park, is a nondescript Grecian build- 
 ing, dating from 1729. In it is a 
 recumbent effigy of the late Lord 
 Hardwicke. 
 
 (The churches of Arrvngton and 
 Croydon, 1. of the road, are of little 
 interest. East Hatley Ch. is early 
 Dec. That of Hatley St. George, 
 Perp., but much spoiled, contains a 
 good brass for Baldwin St. George, 
 1425.) 
 
 Soon after leaving Wimpole, the 
 road crosses the line of rly. between 
 Cambridge and Bedford (see lUe. 
 8), which has a station here named 
 the "Old North Ptoad Stat." At 
 10 m. rt. of the road is Bourn Hall, 
 a seat of Lord Delawarr. Here the 
 country is really pretty. There is 
 much wood, and the ground is well 
 broken and varied. Boiirne Ch. is 
 well worth a visit. The chancel is 
 early Perp. ; the nave arches and 
 thechanctil arch, Trans. -Norm. ; the 
 transepts, Dec. The tower, at the 
 W. end, is massive E. Eng. (circ. 
 
 1260). Its windows and lofty but- 
 tresses should be noticed. Bourn 
 Hall stands on the site of a castle 
 (of which the moat remains), which 
 was the head of the barony of Picot 
 of Cambridge, sheriff of Cambridge- 
 shire at the time of the Domesday 
 Survey. This castle is said to have 
 been destroyed duiing the Barons' 
 Wars (temp. Hen. IILj. The ch. of 
 Bourne, with a chapel in the castle, 
 was given by Picot to the Augus- 
 tiuians of Barnwell, whose priory 
 was founded by him. 
 
 (The churches of Long Stow and 
 Little Gransden, 1. of the road, both 
 contain E. Eng. portions, but are of 
 little interest.) 
 
 At 11 m. the road passes through 
 the village of Caxton. The Ch. is 
 E. Eng. ( chancel), and Perp. (nave 
 and aisle). The George Inn, in the 
 village, is a Jacobean house, worth 
 notice. Caxton was certainly not 
 (as has been asserted) the birthplace 
 of the famous printer, who tells us 
 himself that he was born " in the 
 weald of Kent." It has scarcely a 
 better claim to be regarded as the 
 birthplace of Matthew Paris, the 
 chronicler of St. Alban's, There is 
 no real authority for such a state- 
 ment, and it is difiicult to under- 
 stand on what grounds it has been 
 made. 
 
 (.3 m. N. W. of Caxton is Cldlderley, 
 which early in the 16th centy. be- 
 came the property of Sir John Cutts, 
 whose father, another Sir .John Cutts, 
 was the builder of Horeham Hall, 
 in Essex. Elizabeth, at the begin- 
 ning of her reign, when "tlie sick- 
 ness " was in London, sent the 
 S^Danish ambassador to be housed 
 and cared for by Sir John Cutts, at 
 Childerley Hall. The ambassador, 
 says Fuller, "conceived himself dis- 
 paraged to be sent to one of so short 
 a name," but soon found that " what 
 the knight lacked in length of name 
 he made up in largeness of entertain- 
 
440 
 
 Moute S.-^Camhridge to Bedford. 
 
 Sect. ly. 
 
 ment." — Wortldes, Cambridgeshire. 
 After the seizure of Chas. I, by- 
 Cornet Joyce at Holmby (June, 1G47) 
 the king was brought to this house, 
 then occupied by Lady Cutts, a 
 widow; and he was waited on here 
 by Fairfax and Cromwell, who 
 ordered his removal to Newmarket. 
 The hall, much lessened in size, and 
 occupied by a farmer, contains a 
 wainscoted room, said to be that in 
 which the king slept. The ch. was 
 pulled down, and the parish depopu- 
 lated, by Sir John Cutts, in the reign 
 of Chas. I., for the sake of enlarging 
 and improving his park.) 
 
 1 m. beyond Caxton the road 
 crosses the tm-npike road from Cam- 
 bridge to St. Neot's. (On the St. 
 Neot's road, 1. H m.is£'Z/^■s?e^/, w*here 
 the ch. is dedicated to a certain Saint 
 Paudiona, daughter of "a king of 
 the Scots," who took refuge from her 
 persecutors in a nunnery at Eltisley, 
 died there, and was buried near a 
 well called by her name, whence, in 
 the 14th centy., her remains were 
 " translated " into the ch. Eltisley 
 also possessed what were asserted to 
 be the relics of St. Wendieth, or 
 Wendreda, a personage as nearly 
 mythical as St. Paudiona. Nothing 
 is known of either, nor of the nun- 
 nery said to have once existed here. 
 (For St. Wendredas relics — wh'cli 
 the author of the ' Liber Eliensis * 
 declares were once in the posses- 
 sion of his monastery — see March, 
 Etc. 4.) The ch, has good E. Eng. 
 portions. The Ch. of Croxton, 1 m. be- 
 yond Eltisley, is chiefly Perp.) 
 
 Tiiere is nothing that calls for 
 notice before reaching the border of 
 the county, except the Ch. ofElsworth, 
 2 m. rt. of the road. This is early 
 Dec. throughout, and interesting. 
 The piscina and sedilia deserve 
 special notice. There is some good 
 wood-work, and a monument for 
 Samuel Disbrowe, Keeper of the 
 Great Seal of Scotland during the 
 Civil War. He bought the manor of 
 
 Elsworth, which, together with the 
 ch., was the property of Ramsey 
 Abbey from a very early period until 
 the Dissolution. 
 
 Tlie churches of Papworth St. 
 Everard and Papworth St. Agnes 
 are uninteresting. Here the Cam- 
 bridgeshire border is passed. 2 m. 
 beyond it Godmanchester is reached , 
 and across the river Ouse is Hunting- 
 don ( see Handbook for Huutingdon- 
 shire). 
 
 EOUTE 8. 
 
 CAMBRIDGE TO BEDFORD. 
 
 (London and N.- Western Bailway.') 
 
 The first station on this line is at 
 Lord's Bridge, where the old 
 Akeman Street crossed the Bourn 
 brook, a feeder of the Cam. At a 
 tumulus called Heyhill, near Lord's 
 l>ridge, a cliaiu with collars for con- 
 ducting captives was found. It is 
 now in tlie Fitzwilliam Museum. 
 At Comherton, 1 m. N.W., a large 
 Roman villa was discovered in 1842. 
 On one of the tiles was the impression 
 of a dog's foot, and on another that 
 of a nailed shoe, resembling a modern 
 one. Both impressions must have 
 been made when the tiles were soft. 
 Comberton is famous for its curious 
 ancient maze, in front of the National 
 School, It has been paved with 
 pebbles, but is, no doubt, of great 
 antiquity. Sucli mazes are found at 
 many places in England and else- 
 
Cambridge. Boute 9. — Cambridge to Sudbury. 
 
 441 
 
 where, and seem to have been used 
 in certain games, such as that called 
 *' Troy town." All the learning on 
 the subject will be found in the Rev. 
 E. Trollope's paper in the ' Archasol. 
 Journal,' vol. xv. 
 
 Comberton Ch. is E, Eng. and Perp. 
 (In Toft Ch. (l^m. W. of Comberton) 
 is a very good wooden roof. The 
 whole ch. is Perp. The Churches of 
 Caldecot and Hardwicke (both N. of 
 Toft) are Perp., but this group of 
 churches is of no great interest. The 
 two Eversdens, S. of the Lord's Bridge 
 Station, are both poor — Great 
 Eversden, Perp. ; Little Eversden, 
 Dec.) 
 
 At Old North Road Stat,, at little 
 N. of Wimpole (see Ete. 7), the 
 road crosses the Erming Street, 
 Kingston Ch. (2 m. N.W.) is Dec. 
 and Perp., but hardly worth a visit. 
 
 Hence tlie rly. passes througli a 
 comparatively wooded corner of Cam- 
 bridgeshire, to 
 
 Gamlingay Stat. The village here 
 was of some importance before the 
 neighbouring town of Potton, in Bed- 
 fordshire, carried off its trade and its 
 market. Gamlingay is now only 
 noticeable as having belonged, for 
 the most part, to Sir George Down- 
 ing, the founder, by his will, of 
 Downing College, in Cambridge (see 
 Rte. 1). The great house built 
 here by him was pulled down in 
 1776. The Ch. is Dec. and Perp., 
 and is of some interest. There are 
 large porches with gi'oined vaults. 
 (The N. porch has a room over it.) 
 The rood-screen, which remains, is 
 early Perp. 
 
 The rectory belongs to Merton 
 College, Oxford. Its estate forms 
 what is called the " Manor of the 
 Mertonage," and was part of the en- 
 dowment given to the college by its 
 founder, Walter de Merton. 
 
 From Gamlingay the rly. turns S., 
 
 soon crosses the Cambridgeshire bor- 
 der, and proceeds by Potton, Sandy 
 Junction, and Blunham to Bedford 
 (see Handbook for Bedfordshire). 
 
 ROUTE 9. 
 
 CAMBRIDGE TO SUDBURY, BY 
 HAVERHILL. 
 
 (^Branch of Great Eastern Rly.) 
 
 From Cambridge to Shelford the 
 line is the same as the main line 
 from Cambridge to London. At 
 
 3 J m. Shelford Jung, the line 
 toward Melford and Sudbury 
 branches 1. 
 
 Passing Babraham and Sawston 
 (for both see Rte. 1) , the first stat. 
 beyond Shelford is 
 
 7| m. Abington Stat. The churches 
 of Great and Little Abington have 
 E. Eng, portions, but are of no great 
 interest. An ancient entrenchment 
 called the Brent or Pampisford Ditch 
 runs from Abington to Pampisford. 
 Hildersham Ch., about 1 m. from 
 Abington St it., deserves a visit, for 
 the sake of tlie monuments it con- 
 tains. The ch. itself is for the most 
 part E. Eng., with Perp. additions. 
 On the N. side of the chaiicel are the 
 eflSgies, in wood, of an unknown 
 u 3 
 
442 
 
 Houte 9. — BalsJiam — Linton. 
 
 Sect. IV 
 
 knight and lady — temp. Ed. I. (?) 
 The knight is cross-legged. There 
 is also a Dec. canopied tomb, with 
 hrasses of Eobert de Paris (1379) 
 and ilia wife. The figures are kneel- 
 ing by a floriated cross with tlie 
 Holy Trinity in the head. Robert 
 de Paris is not in armour, but wears 
 the short " cote bardie " buttoned up 
 in front, and a long mantle. Other 
 hrasses in the chancel are— Henry 
 Paris, 1472, and wife, an early 
 example of complete plate-armour ; 
 and Henry Paris, 146G (with the 
 lance rest). The probable dates of 
 these brasses are copied from Haines* 
 ' Manual,' and were supplied from a 
 MS. pedigree of the Paris family in 
 Pembroke Coll. Library. Robert de 
 Paris was of Carmarthen, and does 
 not seem to have been lord of 
 Hildersham, though he has a brass 
 in the ch. The family were here [ 
 from the beginning of the 15th centy. \ 
 to the reign of Charles I. The ', 
 Bustelers were at Hildersham before 
 them. 
 
 (2f m. E. of Hildersham is Bals- 
 liam. where is a large and fine Dec. 
 and Perp. Ch. On the way to it the 
 ridge of tlie Gog Magog hills — " tlie 
 pleasant hills of Balsham," as they 
 are called by Hen. Huntingdon — 
 is crossed, along whicli ran the 
 branch of the '' Via Devana," which 
 passed from Cambridge to Colchester. 
 Connected with this road is the camp 
 at Wiindlebury (Rte. 1\ ni\ar which 
 are many tumuli. Balsham Ch. is 
 said to have been rebuilt by John 
 de Sleford, master of the wardrobe 
 to Edw. III., and rector of the place. 
 He died in 1401 (Lysons). Tlie 
 tower and chancel are certainly 
 earlier (early Dec), the nave early 
 Perp. and fine. The stalls in the 
 clioncel were Sleford's work. In this 
 ch. are 2 very large and fine hrasses, 
 alone deserving a visit. In ths chan- 
 cel is tliat of John de Sleford, re- 
 builder of the ch. He wears a rich 
 cope, in front of which are figures of 
 
 saints imder canopies. At the sides 
 is his monogram, which also occurs 
 on the morse of the cope. Above 
 are the arms of England and France, 
 quarterly: and the same impaling 
 those of Philippa of Hainault, to 
 wdiom John de Sleford was chaplain. 
 Round the brass runs a long inscrip- 
 tion, recording that — 
 
 "Jon Sleford dictus, Rector, mimdo que 
 relictus 
 Bursa non strictus, jacet hie sub marmore 
 pictus. 
 
 Ecclesiam struxit banc nunquam postea 
 
 luxit 
 Haec fecit stalla . . ." 
 
 The three crowns on this brass are 
 the armorial bearings of Ely, to 
 which convent the manor belonged. 
 The other brass, in the nave, is 
 that of John Blodwell, Dean of St. 
 Asaph's (d. 1462). He, too, wears a 
 rich cope, with figures of saints at 
 the sides. There are 12 Latin verses, 
 which record that the dean " longo 
 tempore cecus erat." 
 
 There seems to have been an 
 ancient tradition that Balsham snf- 
 fei-ed unusually during the terrible 
 devastation by the Danes of Cam- 
 bridgeshire and East Anglia in 1010, 
 the last year of resistance to Swend. 
 According to Bromton (whose autho- 
 rity for the fact is small, though he 
 may represent some local tradition), 
 the Danes, on their way from Cam- 
 bridge into Essex, massacred all the 
 inhabitants of Balsliam, except one 
 man, who defended himself on a step 
 of the ch. tower against the whole 
 host. 
 
 A little beyond Balsham Ch. be- 
 gins the Fleam DyJce, which runs 
 from the wooded country of tlie 
 Essex border to the Cam at Fen 
 Ditton (see Rte. 2). 
 
 The stat. beyond Abington is 
 
 lOJ m. Linton. Here the chalk 
 
 hills are higher, and there are patches 
 
 of wood. Linton Ch., of no great 
 
 interest, is Dec. and Perp. It con- 
 
Cambridge. 
 
 Boute 9 . — Bartlow — Horselieath. 
 
 443 
 
 tains some monuments of the Paris 
 family. There was an alien priory 
 here — a cell of the Abbey of St. 
 Jaciitus de Insula, in Britanny (dio- 
 cese of Dule). After the seizure by 
 the crown of such alien cells, it was 
 granted to Pembroke Hall, in Cam- 
 bridge. At Barham, in Linton parish, 
 was a priory of Crutched Friars, 
 founded before 1292, and attached 
 to Welnetham Priory, in Suffolk. 
 Barham Hall (near which are some 
 unintelligible entrenchments) occu- 
 pies its site. From Linton we soou 
 reach 
 
 12J m. Bartlow Stat. (Here is the 
 junction of a short branch line which 
 runs rt. by Saffron "Walden to the 
 Audley End Stat, on the main line 
 of the Great Eastern Ely. (see Essex, 
 Kte. 11). The tumuli called the 
 Bartlow Hills, well known to anti- 
 quaries, are conspicuous from the rly. 
 It was at first proposed (in 1863) to 
 carry the rly. between two of these 
 tumuli, cutting away the base on 
 either side. The committee of the 
 Archaeological Institute interft-red; 
 and an amended line was adopted, 
 though not without some injury to 
 the grave mounds. In cutting be- 
 tween the hills it was found that the 
 chalk makes here a deeper dip than 
 in the adjacent parts ; and at this 
 spot a quantity of human bones were 
 found in the earth above the chalk, 
 enough to form 15 complete skele- 
 tons, proving that below the base of 
 tiie hills (Roman tumuli) tliere had 
 been earlier interments. There are 
 4 hills or tumuli. Excavations were 
 made in them in 1832, 1835, and 
 1838; and the objects then found 
 were fully described by Mr. Gage 
 Rokewode in the ' Archseologia " (vols. 
 XXV. xxvi.xxviii.). The hills and their 
 contents are unquestionably of the 
 Roman period. Some remarkable 
 glass vessels were disin ''erred : but, 
 imfortunately, many of the relies 
 were destroyed in the fire at Easton 
 Lodge in 1847 (see Essex, Rte. 3) 
 
 The Bartlow Hills are on the Easton 
 property. 
 
 Bartlow Ch. is of some interest. 
 It is Dec. and Perp., with a round 
 tower (early Dec.?). 
 
 Leaving Bartlow, the rail passes, 
 ]., Horseheath, long the stately resi- 
 dence of tlie Alingtons. But the 
 glories of Horseheath have passed 
 away. It had been a lordship of the 
 Argentines, a great Norman house, 
 whose two heiresses, at the close of 
 the reign of Hen. V., married two 
 brothers, Alingtons. One sister died, 
 and the whole of the Argentine 
 lands came to the other, whose hus- 
 band fixed his residence at Horse- 
 heath. They were a distinguished 
 race. Sir William Alington fell at 
 Bosworth. His son, Sir Giles, died 
 1 522, and has a stately monument in 
 the ch. Charles I. created William 
 Alington, Baron Alington of Kdlard, 
 County Cork. Charles II. advanced 
 his son to an English peerage, making 
 him Baron Alington of Wymondley. 
 — a lordship which gave him and his 
 successors the right to '' carry the 
 king the first draught of drink in a 
 silver cup at his coronation." Horse- 
 heath was sold by the Alingtons 
 about 1700 to John Bromley, grand- 
 father of the first Lord Montfort. 
 There was a very stately house here, 
 built by Webb, a pupil of Inigo 
 Jones, for Lord Alington. The Lords 
 Montfort pulled it down, and allowed 
 the park to be broken up. Alingtons 
 and Montforts have left no very good 
 I reputation behind them. One Sir 
 I Giles Alington married his own 
 niece, and was compelled to do pen- 
 ance at Paul's Cross (1631). The 
 extravagance of the Montforts is still 
 fresh in Horseheath tradition. The 
 Clinrcli is Dec. and Perp. Besides 
 Alington monuments, it contains a 
 larsre brass for Sir John de Argen- 
 tine, 1382. 
 
 rt, of the rly. are the churches 
 of Shudy Camps and Castle Camps, 
 both Perp., but hardly worth a visit. 
 
444 
 
 Boute 9. — Castle Cami^s. 
 
 Sect. IV. 
 
 At Castle Camps are the moat and 
 foundations of a castle wliicli be- 
 longed to the Veres, Earls of Oxford, 
 from the Conquest until 1580. The 
 eldest son of Sir George Vere, who, 
 in the reign of Hen. VIII., succeeded 
 to the earldom, was called "Little 
 John of Camjjs," from his residence 
 
 here. The greater part of the castle 
 fell in 1738, In Buck's drawing 
 (1731) considerable remains are 
 shown. There was a large park. 
 The rly. reaches, at 
 
 9). 
 
 18| m. Haverhill (sec Essex, Rte. 
 
( 445 ) 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ABIXGTON. 
 
 A. 
 
 Abington, Churches, 441. 
 
 Station, 441. 
 
 Acton Church, 117. 
 
 Place, 117. 
 
 Akeman Street, 440. 
 
 Albyns, 79. 
 
 Aldborough, 154 ; Crabbe's 
 description of, 155 ; Church, 
 i?5; Inn, 154. 
 
 Aide River, 147, 149. 
 
 Aldeby Stat., 164. 
 
 Alderton, 146. 
 
 Aldreth, 424. 
 
 Alresford, 55. 
 
 Ambreys Banks, 77. 
 
 Ampton, 1 5 3. 
 
 Angel Road Stat., 8j. 
 
 Angerstein, William, 313. 
 
 Anglesea Abbey, ^87. 
 
 Ant River, 2ji, 237. 
 
 Antiugham, 237. 
 
 Ardleigh, 39. 
 
 Arfeesden, 92. 
 
 Arrington Church, 439. 
 
 Ashbj- Church, 164. 
 
 Ashfield, Little (generally 
 called Bad well Ash), 17;. 
 
 Ashington, 51. 
 
 Ashwellthorpe Church, 187. 
 
 Hall, 187, 265. 
 
 Attleborough, 307. 
 
 Church, 307. 
 
 AuDLEY End, 95 ; Billiard and 
 Stiite rooms, 96 ; Chapel, 
 97 ; Gardens, &c., 97 ; Great 
 Hall, 95 ; History, 94; Li- 
 braries, 97 ; Portraits, 96. 
 
 Austen, Mrs. Sarah, birth- 
 place of, 217. 
 
 Avely, 5. 
 
 Aylmerton Church, 249. 
 
 Heath, 250. 
 
 Aylsham, 241 ; Church, 241 ; 
 Inns, 241. 
 
 B. 
 
 Babraham, 317. 
 
 BEDFORD. 
 
 Babwell, i?8, 
 Bacton, 238. 
 
 Church, 174. 
 
 Baddow, Great, 2 ;. 
 
 Little, 24. 
 
 Bailey Lodge, East, 84. 
 
 , , South, 84. 
 
 Bally of Marshland, 434. 
 Balsham, 442. 
 Banham Church, 310. 
 Bardwell Church, 137. 
 Barham, 112. 
 Barking, 3, 167. 
 
 Abbey, 4. 
 
 , Church of St. Margaret, 
 
 Barnardiston, Samuel, origin 
 of the name of " Round- 
 head," 144. 
 
 Barn ham St. Gregory, ij8. 
 
 Barningham Church, 175. 
 
 Hall, 245. 
 
 Barrington Church, 436. 
 
 Hall, 90. 
 
 Barrow Church, 170. 
 
 Barrows, iii, 155. 
 
 Barsham, 181. 
 
 East, Manor House, 289. 
 
 Bartlow, 443. 
 
 Barton, Bernard, the Quaker 
 Poet, 145. 
 
 Broad, 231. 
 
 Church, 136. 
 
 Hall, i?5, 174; collec- 
 tion of pictures and books, 
 136. 
 
 Turf Church, 231. 
 
 Basingbourne, 437. 
 
 Battle Bridge, 52. 
 
 Bawburgh, 219. 
 
 Bealings, Great, Church of, 
 
 145. 
 
 , Little, Church of, 145. 
 
 Beaupre Hall, 434. 
 Beccles, i3}. 
 
 Church, 183. 
 
 Fen, 184. 
 
 — — Junction, 159. 
 
 Bedel, William, Bishop of 
 
 Kilmore, 41. 
 Bedford Level, 592. 
 
 River, New, 4^6. 
 
 River, Old, 426. 
 
 BORLEY. 
 
 Beeston, 251. 
 
 Church, 236. 
 
 Heath, 250. 
 
 i'riory, 251. 
 
 Belaugh Church, 2}5. 
 Belchamp Hall, 61, 
 
 "Walter Church, 61. 
 
 Beleigh Abbey, 48. 
 Belhus, 6. 
 
 Belthorpe Vicarage, 309. 
 Belton Church, 165. 
 Benacre Hall, 163. 
 Benfleet, South, 10. 
 Bennet's-at-HoIm, St., 231. 
 Bentley, Great, Church of, 55. 
 
 Green, 55. 
 
 , Little, Church of, 55. 
 
 Junction to Hadleigh, 
 
 112. 
 
 Stat., 103. 
 
 Bere Church, 39. 
 Bergholt, East, 102. 
 
 , Church of, 102. 
 
 Bicknacre Priory, 24. 
 Bigging Abbey, 384. 
 Billericay, 49. 
 Binham Abbey, 253. 
 Birchanger Church, 92. 
 Birdbrook Stat., 71. 
 Bishop Stortford, 91, 46; 
 
 Church, 91 ; Inns, 91. 
 Bixley Hall, 189, 
 Black Bank, 426. 
 Blackwater, or Pant River, 
 
 28, 47, 48. 
 Blackmore, 22. 
 Blake Hill, 77. 
 Blakeney, 2;?. 
 Blickling, Church of, 244. 
 
 Hall, 243. 
 
 Bloomfield Robert, Autlior of 
 
 The 'Farmer's Boy,' 139, 
 
 Blundiston Church, 164. 
 Blunt's Walls, 50. 
 Blythe Church, 157. 
 
 River, 158. 
 
 Blythburgh, 157. 
 Blytheford, 158. 
 Bocking, 41. 
 Boreham Church, 24. 
 
 House, 24. 
 
 Borley Church, 63. 
 
U6 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 BOROUGH. 
 
 Borough Green, 387. 
 Borrow, George, 162. 
 Bosniere Lake, 167. 
 Botesdale Chapel, 175. 
 
 Grammar School, 175. 
 
 Botolph's, St., 5 J. 
 Bottisham, j86. 
 Bourne Church, 439. 
 
 Hall, 459. 
 
 Bower Hull, 71. 
 
 House, 17. 
 
 Bowers Gilford, 10. 
 Boxford Church, ir?. 
 Boxted Church, 1 1 8. 
 
 Hall, 117. 
 
 Boyland Hall, 187. 
 Bradfield Church, 57, 119. 
 
 Combust, 119. 
 
 Hall, 119. 
 
 St. Clare, 119. 
 
 Bradwell, 49. 
 
 Church, 41, i65. 
 
 Brain River, 46, 47. 
 
 Biaintree, 41. 
 
 , St. Michael's Church, 
 
 Bramfield Church, 159. 
 
 Hall, 159. 
 
 Oak, 159, 
 
 Bramford Manor, 167, 
 
 Brampton Station, 159, 
 
 Branca.-ter, 299. 
 
 Brandon, iij. 
 
 Rabbit-warrens, jr?. 
 
 Brasses, 5, 6, 7, 10, 12, 16, 19, 
 2;, 41, 45, 50, 5?, 55, 57.'ii, 
 80, 89, 91, 92, IJ4, 144, 159, 
 162, 164, 170, 174, 178, 179, 
 182, 186, 209, 210, 211, 2 JO, 
 2j7, 2?8, 241, 242, 244, 245, 
 249, 261, 268, 269, 270, 27 r, 
 276, 286, ^09, ?I7, j86, 387, 
 42J, 4JO, 4J?, 455, 442. 
 
 Braxted Park, 27. 
 
 Brentwood, i3. 
 
 Brelts, 6. 
 
 Breydon Water, t66, 221. 
 
 Brightlingsea, 5J. 
 
 Broads, Norfolk, 229 ; Barton, 
 2;i ; Breydon, 166, 221 ; 
 Filby, 230; Frit ton, 165; 
 Horsey, 2ji; Irstead, 2?i; 
 Martham, 2ji ; 0^m^by, 
 2jo; Oulton, 160; Surling- 
 ham, 220; Wroxhara, 22c. 
 
 Broke Hall, 109. 
 
 Bromc Hall, 172. 
 
 Bromhohn Priory, 2J9. 
 
 , Rood of, 2?9. 
 
 Biooni field Church, 2j. 
 
 Brougham, Lord, anecdote of, 
 
 74- 
 Brownri]:;g, Ralj)!), 105. 
 Broxbourue Bury, 89. 
 Church, 89. 
 
 180 ; 
 
 n9; 
 
 CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 Brugh, 2JO. 
 
 Brundall, 221. 
 
 Buckenham, N"ew, jo8. 
 
 , Old, J08. 
 
 Stat., 221. 
 
 Buckhurst Hill, 74. 
 
 Bulford Stat., 40. 
 
 Bungay, 179; Castle, 
 Churches, 180; Inn, 
 Messrs. Childs' Printing Es 
 tablishment, 18 r. 
 
 Bonn's Bank, jc8. 
 
 Bure River, 220, 230, 241. 
 
 Burts Mount, 61. 
 
 Stat., 6r. 
 
 St. Mary, 61. 
 
 Burgate Church, 174. 
 
 Burgh Castle, 165. 
 
 Church, t66. 
 
 Burnham, 52. 
 
 Deepdale Church, 299. 
 
 INIarket, 261. 
 
 Norton Church, 299. 
 
 Thorpe, birthplace of 
 
 Nelson, 261. 
 
 Bnrstall Ciiurch, 167. 
 
 Burston Slat, i36. 
 
 Burnt Mill Stat., 89. 
 
 Burwell Castle, }87. 
 
 Church, J 87. 
 
 Bury St. Emilnd's, 120; 
 Abbey, 120; Abbot's 
 Bridge, 125 ; Botanic (iar- 
 dens, 125; Churches, 126; 
 Excursions, 129 ; Fair, 129 ; 
 History of St. Edmund 
 and of his ^Monastery, 120; 
 Inns, 120; Norman Tower, 
 127; Public buildings, 128. 
 
 Bury St. I'Jdmund's to Bun- 
 gay and Beccles, 174. 
 
 But ley Church, 147. 
 
 Priory, 146. 
 
 Buxhall Church, 168. 
 
 Buxton, Sir T. Fowell, 248. 
 
 Bylaugh Church, 270. 
 
 Hall, 270, 
 
 c. 
 
 Caisfer Ca.HIe, 2?j. 
 
 Church, 188. 
 
 St. Edmund's, 188. 
 
 Caldicot Church, 441. 
 Cam River, Ixiv, J19. 
 Camhridgk, J18. 
 
 , Excursions from, ^82. 
 
 , Index to, Ji8. 
 
 to Bedford, 440. 
 
 to Ely, 390. 
 
 to Xewmarket, J85. 
 
 to Sudbury, 441. 
 
 to \Vislieach, 4?o. 
 
 Cambridgeshire, liii : Anti- 
 
 CHURCHES. 
 
 quities, Ixiv.; Boundary 
 I >ykes, Ixv ; Churches, Ixv ; 
 Collections of Pictures, 
 Works of Arts, &c., Ixviii ; 
 Extent and general cha- 
 racter, liii ; Geology, Ixviii ; 
 History, liv ; Monastic re- 
 I mains, Ixviii ; Rivers, 
 I Ixiii; Traveller's View, 
 Ixxii. 
 
 Gimps Castle, 44J. 
 
 Shudy, 44 J. 
 
 Campsey Ash Station, 149. 
 
 Can River, 22. 
 
 Canewdon, 52. 
 
 Canvey Island, 12. 
 
 Capel Church, 112. 
 
 Stat., 112. 
 
 Carlton Colville, 159. 
 
 Hall, 156. 
 
 Carrow, 218. 
 
 Castle Acre, 272. 
 
 Hedlngham, 67 ; the 
 
 Castle, 67 ; Church of St. 
 Nicholas, 70; History, 67 ; 
 Keep, 67. 
 
 Priory, 27J. 
 
 Rising, 29 j ; Alms- 
 house, 295 ; Church, 294 ; 
 Hall, 294. 
 
 Cavendish, 140. 
 
 Church, 140. 
 
 Cawston Church, 242. 
 
 Ciixton, 439. 
 
 Cemetery, Roman, n. 
 
 Chapel (or Pontisbright), 60. 
 
 Chatteris, 451. 
 
 Chelmer River, 22, 45, 47. 
 
 Chelmsford, 22; Corn Ex- 
 change, 22 ; County jail, 2 J ; 
 Free school, 22; inns, 22; 
 Museum, 22; Post Office, 
 22; Shirehall, 22; St. 
 Mary's Church, 22. 
 Chelsworth Church, 118. 
 Cherry Hinton, 385. 
 Cheshunt Stat., 89. 
 Chesterford, Great, lor. 
 
 , Little, loi. 
 
 Chesterton, J84. 
 Cheveley Church, J90. 
 
 Park, i90. 
 
 Chevington Church, ijr. 
 Chigwell Lane, 75. 
 
 Row, 74. 
 
 , St. Mary's Cliurch, 74. 
 
 Childerly, 439. 
 Chippenham Church, 390. 
 
 Plall, J90. 
 
 Chipping Ongar, 77. 
 Chittisham Stat., 426. 
 Chrishall Church of, gj. 
 
 , Little, 9 J. 
 
 Churches, English, before the 
 Conquest, xl. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 447 
 
 CHURCHKS. 
 
 DIJNMOW. 
 
 
 ENFIELD. 
 
 Churches of the Marshland, 
 
 Bed, 246 ; Hotels, 
 
 246; 
 
 Dunmow, Little, 43 ; Flitch of 
 
 23j. 
 
 Lightliuuse, 748 ; Lobsters, 
 
 Bacon, 45 ; Priory of, 4J. 
 
 Clacton, Great, Church of, 54. 
 
 246 ; Norwich Crag, 
 
 246; 
 
 I^unstan Church, 219. 
 
 Clare, 140; Casile, 140; 
 
 Walks, 248. 
 
 
 Hall, 219. 
 
 Church, 142; Ino, 140; 
 
 Cromer Hall, 249. 
 
 
 Dunwich, 156; Chapel of St. 
 
 I'riorj' of Austin Friais, 
 
 to Wl-IIs, 251. 
 
 
 James' Hospitid, 157 ; His- 
 
 14? ; Roman Camp, 142. 
 
 Crotch, l)r., birihplace, 216. 
 
 torj% 156; Ruins of Grey 
 
 Claikson, Thomas, burial- 
 
 Crouch River, 52. 
 
 
 Friars' Monastery, 157. 
 
 place of, 144. 
 
 Croxton Church, 440. 
 
 
 Duxford Church of St. John, 
 
 Clavering, 9J. 
 
 Croydon Church, 4J9. 
 
 
 316. 
 
 Claydon, 167. 
 
 Crutched Friars' Priory 
 
 44 J- 
 
 
 Clenchwanon, joi. 
 
 Culford, 138. 
 
 
 E. 
 
 Cley-next-the-Sea, 252. 
 
 
 
 Clippesby, Church of, 2JJ. 
 
 
 
 Eachard, Lawrence, birth- 
 
 Cncbinsand, 157. 
 
 D. 
 
 
 place of, 181. 
 
 Cocktkld Hall, 119, 156. 
 
 
 
 Earlham Hall, 217. 
 
 Coggeshall, 27. 
 
 Dagenham, 5. 
 
 
 Earl's Colne, 63. 
 
 Coke ol Norfolk, 255. 
 
 Park, 18. 
 
 
 Hall, 119. 
 
 Coke, Sir Edward, birthplace 
 
 ]>alham Hall, 170. 
 
 
 Earsham, 179. 
 
 of, 286. 
 
 Danbury Hill, 23. 
 
 
 East Bailey Lodge, 84. 
 
 Colchester, ji; Botanic 
 
 Place, 24. 
 
 
 Bergholt, 102. 
 
 Garden, 37; Castle, j? ; 
 
 Dane Pits, 9. 
 
 
 Eastbury, 5. 
 
 Churches, jj ; History, ji ; 
 
 Danesey Flats, 49. 
 
 
 Easthali Manor House, 306. 
 
 Inns, ji; Johnson's visit. 
 
 Darsham Stat., 1 56. 
 
 
 East Ham, 2. 
 
 31; King Coel, j6; Mu- 
 
 Day, or Deye, John, 157 
 
 
 Eastou Bavents, 158. 
 
 seum, 34; Oysters, 38; 
 
 Debden, 92. 
 
 
 Church, Little, 4,. 
 
 Population, ?i ; Public 
 
 Deben River, iii. 
 
 
 Hall, 150. 
 
 Buildings, J2 ; Siege of, 37 ; 
 
 Debenham, 172. 
 
 
 Lodge, 4;. 
 
 Walls, 32. 
 
 Defoe, Daniel, 9. 
 
 
 Eaton Church, 219. 
 
 Colchester to Brightlingsea 
 
 Denes, 233. 
 
 
 Eau Brink Cut, 305. 
 
 and Walton - on - the-N aze. 
 
 Denham, 131; Castle, 
 
 131; 
 
 Eccles Road, J09. 
 
 52. 
 
 Church, i}i ; Hall, i ji. 
 
 Edingthorpe, 237. 
 
 to Haverhill, 6j. 
 
 Dennington, Church of. 
 
 •53- 
 
 Elmonton Stat., 83- 
 
 to Sudbury, 60. 
 
 Denny Abbey, 391. 
 
 
 Edmund's, St., 297. 
 
 Coldham Hall, 1 19. 
 
 Denton Church, 179. 
 
 
 Edmund, St., Martyr, 1 21, 177. 
 
 Colne, Earls, or Great Monks 
 
 Denver Stat., 306. 
 
 
 Ellingham, Great, 266. 
 
 Colne, 6j. 
 
 Deopham Church, 266. 
 
 
 Elmham Hall, 286. 
 
 Church, 64 
 
 Derehajf, East, 267 ; Church, 
 
 , North, 182. 
 
 Kngaine Cliurch, 64. 
 
 268 ; Inn, 267 ; Grave of 
 
 Elmhanis, South, 182. 
 
 River, jr, 39, 6j. 
 
 Cowper, 268 ; Legend of St. 
 
 Old Minster, 182. 
 
 Valley Railway, 63. 
 
 Withburga, 268 ; Mrs 
 
 Un- 
 
 Elmsett Church, 167. 
 
 Culti shall, 2 J 5. 
 
 win, 269; St. Withbu 
 
 rga's 
 
 Elms well, 170. 
 
 Combeiton Church, 441 ; 
 
 Well, 269. 
 
 
 Elsenham, 92. 
 
 Maze, 440. 
 
 Dereham to Lynn, 271. 
 
 
 Elsing Church, 269. 
 
 Combs Church, i63. 
 
 to Wells, 285. 
 
 
 Hall, 270. 
 
 Constable, the painter, 103. 
 
 Dersingham, 296. 
 
 
 Elsworth Church, 440. 
 
 Cupfurd, Church of, jo. 
 
 l)irkleborougli, 186. 
 
 
 I'^ltisley, 440. 
 
 Copped, or Copt Hall, 76. 
 
 Diss, 173, £74, 177, 18?. 
 
 
 Hveden Hall, 139. 
 
 Corriugham, Church of, 10. 
 
 Ditchingham Hall, 181. 
 
 
 Elwes, Sir Gervase, 143. 
 
 Corton Church, 164. 
 
 Docking, 299. 
 
 
 Ely, 393; Bishop's Palace, 
 
 Codn, John, birthplace, 216. 
 
 Doddington Church, 432 
 
 
 420 ; Cathedral, 398 ; 
 
 Costessey Ha'l, 219. 
 
 Dove River, 177. 
 
 
 Cheny Hill, 420; Churches, 
 
 Coton, Church of, 384. 
 
 J;overcourt, Lower, 57. 
 
 
 421 ; Cromwell Arms, 421 ; 
 
 Cottenham, 392. 
 
 Upper, Miraculous Rood, 
 
 Deanery, 419 ; Excursions 
 
 Cove Hythe Church, 16?. 
 
 57- 
 
 
 from, 421 ; Graumiar 
 
 Covoney Church, 426. 
 
 Down Hall, 90. 
 
 
 School, 420 ; History, 393 ; 
 
 Crabbe, George, the poet, 145, 
 
 Downham, 426. 
 
 
 Inns, 393 ; Park, 420. 
 
 150. 
 
 Market, 306. 
 
 
 Ely, Isle of, 393, 425. 
 
 Cratfield, Church of, \ 54. 
 
 Dowsing, the Iconoclast 
 
 , 145. 
 
 Stat., 39}, 307, 315- 
 
 Cressingham Manor House, 
 
 I>rayton Lodge, 219. 
 
 
 to Peterborough, 426. 
 
 27+ 
 
 Dudbroke House, 79. 
 
 
 Emneth Church, 4??- 
 
 Cringleford Church, 219. 
 
 Dullingham, 387. 
 
 
 Enfield, 83 ; Chace, ' 84 ; 
 
 Crome. John, b rthplace, 216. 
 
 Dunham Magna, 271. 
 
 
 Church, 8?; Inn, 83 ; Old 
 
 CR"Jif.r, 246; Clumh, 247; 
 
 , Little. Stnt, 271. 
 
 
 Manor House, 8j ; Tomb 
 
 Esplanade, 246 ; Forest 
 
 Dun mow, Great, 44. 
 
 
 of Jocosa Tiptoft, 83. 
 
448 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 EPPING. 
 
 Epping. 75. 
 
 Church, 7?. 
 
 Forest, 76. 
 
 • Hunt, 76. 
 
 Erming Street, 4^6. 
 
 Erpingham Church, 244. 
 
 Erwarton Church, no. 
 
 Hall, no. 
 
 Essex : Antiquities, xv ; 
 Castles, xix ; Churches, 
 xvii ; Domestic Architec- 
 ture, xix ; Extent and 
 general character, vii ; 
 Geology, xix ; History, 
 ix ; Monastic Remains, 
 xviii ; Pictures and Art 
 Collections, xxii ; Travel- 
 ler's View, xxi. 
 
 Euston Park, 138. 
 
 Portrait Gallery, 1 39. 
 
 Eversden Churches, 441. 
 
 Exning Church, jgo. 
 
 Eye Castle, 17J. 
 
 Church, 17J. 
 
 Eyke, Church of, 146. 
 
 " Ej'nd," or water-smoke, 2 J2. 
 
 F. 
 
 Fairfield, 15. 
 
 Fairlop Oak, the, 75. 
 
 Fair Mead, or Queen Eliza- 
 beth's Lodge, 75. 
 
 Fairstead, 390. 
 
 Fakenhara, 287. 
 
 Faulkbourne Hall, 40. 
 
 Feering Church, 28. 
 
 Felbrigge Park, 249. 
 
 Felix Hall 27. 
 
 Felixstowe, in. 
 
 Felstead, Monument to Lord 
 Rich, 42. 
 
 Fen Ditton, ^84. 
 
 Fenn, Sir John, birthplace, 
 216; Letters, 216. 
 
 Fersficld, 186. 
 
 Field Dalling. 253. 
 
 Filby Broad, 2jo. 
 
 Church, 2 JO. 
 
 Fiiiningham, 174. 
 
 Fleam, the, or Balsham Dyke, 
 i86. 
 
 Dyke, 442. 
 
 Fletcher, Giles, 145. 
 
 Flixton Church. 164. 
 
 Hall, 179. 
 
 Flordon Stat., 187. 
 
 Fobbing, 10. 
 
 , Jack Straw's Rebellion, 
 
 10. 
 
 Fordham Church, 423. 
 
 Forncett Stat., 187. 
 
 All Saints' Church, T?8. 
 
 Fornhum St. Genevieve, 137. 
 
 QREENSTEAD. 
 
 Forty Hall, 84. 
 Fossil Pits, 146. 
 Foul sham, 286. 
 Foxton Stat., 436. 
 Framingham Earl, 188. 
 
 Pigot, 188. 
 
 Fkamlixgham, 150 ; Albert 
 
 jMemorial College, 153; 
 
 Castle, 151; Church, 152; 
 
 History, 150; Inn, 150; 
 
 Monuments, 152 ; Statue of 
 
 Prince Consort, by Durham, 
 
 Framsden, 172. 
 Fransham, Great, 271. 
 Freuze, Church of, 186. 
 Fressingfield Church, 178. 
 Freston, 109. 
 Frinton, 56. 
 Fritton Broad, 165. 
 
 Church, 164, 187. 
 
 Fry, Elizabeth, birthplace, 
 
 218. 
 Fryering Church, 22, 
 Fulbourne Church, 386. 
 Fyfield Church, 79. 
 
 G. 
 
 Gainsborough, 109, 162. 
 Gallowood Common, 23. 
 Gamlingay, 441. 
 Garrett, Messrs., Ironworks, 
 
 154- 
 Gate Tower, 278. 
 Gawdy Hall, 179. 
 Gedding, 170. 
 George Lane Stat., 73. 
 Gidea Hall, 16. 
 Giffard'sHall, 115. 
 Gillingham, St. Mary's 
 
 Church, 184. 
 Gilston Park, 89. 
 Gipping River, 103, 168. 
 Glemham Hall, Little, 154. 
 Glemsford, 140. 
 Gog- Magog Hills, 317, 442- 
 Gold Bridge, tradition of, 
 
 177. 
 Goldingham Hall, 61. 
 Goldsmith, Dr., 135. 
 Gorlestone Church, 164. 
 Gosfield Church, 66. 
 
 Hall, 64. 
 
 Gough, Richard, 84. 
 Granchester, 383. 
 
 Church, 383. 
 
 Granta River, 92. 
 Grays-Thurrock, 6. 
 Great Leighs, 42. 
 
 Hautbois, 23 ?. 
 
 Greene, Maurice, birthplace, 
 
 216. 
 Greenstead, 78. 
 
 HASLINGFIELD. 
 
 Greenstead timber Church, 
 78. 
 
 Green Street House, j. 
 
 Gresham Church, 249. 
 
 Gressenhall Church, 269. 
 
 Grimes Graves, 250, 313, 
 
 Grimstone Hall, in. 
 
 Qrinling Gibbons, the Ston- 
 ing of St. Stephen, 53. 
 
 Groton, 315. 
 
 Grundisburgh, Church of, 
 145. 
 
 Gunn, Rev. J., 231. 
 
 Gunton Church, 164. 
 
 Hall, 245. 
 
 Gumey, J. J., 218, 
 
 Haddenham Church, 424. 
 
 Haddiscoe Church, 221. 
 
 Hadham, Little, Church, 92. 
 
 Hadleigh, 113; Celebrated 
 Characters, 114 ; Church, 
 113 ; Population, 113 ; Rec- 
 tory Tower, 114; 'Tracts 
 for the Times,' 114; Wool- 
 len trade, 113. 
 
 Hadleigh Castle, xi. 
 
 Church, II. 
 
 Hadstock Church, loi. 
 
 Hainault Forest, 74. 
 
 Hale End, 74. 
 
 Hales Church, 181. 
 
 Hales worth, 158. 
 
 Church, 159. 
 
 Hall, Bishop Joseph, IJ4. 
 
 Hallingbury Place, 92. 
 
 Halstead, 64. 
 
 Ham, East, 2. 
 
 , Great London Sewer, 3. 
 
 , AVest, 2. 
 
 Happisburgh, 239. 
 
 Hardingham, 267. 
 
 Hardxoick Rouse, 1 ?4. 
 
 Collection of fine Paint- 
 ings, I J,-. 
 
 Church, 441. 
 
 Hargham Hall, 309. 
 
 Harleston, 179. 
 
 Harling, ?]ast and West, 309. 
 
 Harlow, 90. 
 
 Bury, 90. 
 
 — — Bush, 90. 
 
 Cimrches, 90. 
 
 Harlton, 4 j6. 
 
 Harston Stat., 436. 
 
 Harvey, Dr. William, 72. 
 
 Hakwich, 57 ; Baths, &c. ; 
 59 ; Beacon Hill, 58 ; Ce- 
 ment stones, 59 ; Church, 
 59 ; Great naval fight, 58 ; 
 History, 58 ; Hotels, 57. 
 
 Haslingfield Church, 436. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 449 
 
 HASTINGS. 
 
 Hastings, Sir Hugh, 269. 
 
 Hassels, 10. 
 
 Hatfield Broadoak, 80. 
 
 Church, 81. 
 
 Peverel Church, 26. 
 
 Hatley, East, 439. 
 
 , St. George, 4J9. 
 
 Haughley Road Castle, 168. 
 
 Hautbois, Great, 235. 
 
 Havergate Island, 149. 
 
 Haverhill Stat., 72. 
 
 Havering-atte- Bower, 17. 
 
 Hawkwood Manor, 67. 
 
 , John, 67. 
 
 Hawstead Church, 154. 
 
 Place, 1 3 J. 
 
 Heachara Stat., 297. 
 
 Hedingham Castle, see Castle 
 Hedingham. 
 
 , Sible, 67. 
 
 Heigham, 218. 
 
 Church, 218. 
 
 Sound or Broad, 2ji. 
 
 Helmingham Hall, 171. 
 
 Hempsted, 72. 
 
 Hengrave Church, ij2. 
 
 Hall, 132, 
 
 Henham Hall, 157. 
 
 on the Hill, 92. 
 
 Henslow, the Rev. J. S., 119. 
 
 Heron Hall, 19. 
 
 Herringfieet Church, 163. 
 
 Hall 163. 
 
 Hethersett, 263. 
 
 Heveningham Hall, 159. 
 
 Hevingham Church, 240. 
 
 Hey bridge Church, 48. 
 
 Heydon, 93. 
 
 Hall, 243. 
 
 Hickling Broad, 231. 
 
 High Beech, 75. 
 
 House, 7. 
 
 Laver, 90. 
 
 Churchyard, 91. 
 
 Higham Stat., 170. 
 
 Hildersham Church, 441. 
 
 Hilgay Fen Stat., 306. 
 
 Hill Hall, 76. 
 
 Hillington Church, 221. 
 
 Hingham Church, 265. 
 
 Hinton, 424. 
 
 Histon, 430. 
 
 Hitcham, 119. 
 
 Hockley, 51. 
 
 Church, 52. 
 
 Hoddesdon, 89. 
 
 Holbrook Church, 1 10. 
 
 HoLKHAM, 255 ; Art Collec- 
 tions, 256; Farm build- 
 ings, 256 ; Hall, Rooms, 
 Picture Galleries, &c., 256 ; 
 House, 256 ; Leicester 
 Monument, 256 ; Libraries, 
 258; Obelisk, 255; Park, 
 255. 
 
 INGATESTONE. 
 
 Holkham Church, 261. 
 HoUesley, 146. 
 Holt, 251. 
 
 Perrers, Manor of, 252. 
 
 Holton, St. Mary Church, 
 
 103. 
 Holy Wells, 108. 
 Homersfield, 179. 
 Honey Farm, 432. 
 Honingham Hall, 220. 
 Honington, 139, 175. 
 Hood, Thomas, 73. 
 Hooker, Sir Wm., birthplace, 
 
 217. 
 Hopkins, Mathew, the Witch- 
 finder, 39, 129. 
 Hoppy Hall, 8. 
 Hop ton Church, 164. 
 Horeham Hall, 46. 
 Horkesley, Little, 61. 
 Hornchurch,' 8. 
 Homdon-on-the-Hill, 10. 
 Horning, 232. 
 Horningsea, 384. 
 Horningsworth, Church of, 
 
 129. 
 Horseheath, 443. 
 Horsey Broad, or Mere, 231. 
 Horstead, 235. 
 Houghton, 284. 
 Collection of Pictures 
 
 sold to Catherine of Russia, 
 
 284. 
 Houghton - le - Dale Chapel, 
 
 292. 
 Howe Church, 188. 
 Hoxne Church, 177; Murder 
 
 of St. Edmund, 177. 
 Hunsdon House, 89. 
 Hunstanton, 297. 
 
 Hall, 298. 
 
 Hurts Church, 154. 
 
 Hall, 154. 
 
 Huttou, Church of, 49. 
 Hyde, the, 21. 
 
 Hall, Great, 91. 
 
 Hy lands, 22. 
 
 Hythe, 53. 
 
 Point, Old, 250. 
 
 I. 
 
 Ickburgh, 314. 
 
 Ickleton, 435. 
 
 Icklinghams, The two, 133. 
 
 Ickivorth, 129. 
 
 Gallery of pictures, 130. 
 
 Ilford, 15 ; House of Correc- 
 tion, 15 ; St. Mary's Hos- 
 pital, 15. 
 
 , Little, Church of, 16. 
 
 Ilketshall, 182. 
 
 Impington, 430. 
 
 Ingatestone, 20. 
 
 Church, 20. 
 
 KNAPTON. 
 
 Ingatestone Hall, 20. 
 
 Ingham, 237, 244. 
 
 Ingoldisthorpe Church, 296. 
 
 Ingrave, Church of, 19. 
 
 Intwood, 262. 
 
 Ipswich, 103 ; Cardinal Wol- 
 sej', 104; Churches, 106; 
 Excursions, io3 ; Factory, 
 Grammar School, 108 ; His- 
 tory, 10? ; Inns, 103 ; " Ips- 
 wich Witches," T04; Mr. 
 Pickwick, 103 ; Museum, 
 106; Population, 103; 
 Smart's Almshouses, 107 ; 
 Sparrowe's House, 106 ; 
 Steamers, io3. 
 
 Ipswich to Newmarket, 171 
 174. 
 
 to Yarmouth, 144. 
 
 Irstead Broad, 231. 
 
 Rectory, 231. 
 
 Isle of Ely, 39?. 425- 
 
 Isleham, Church of, 422. 
 
 Ives, St., 431. 
 
 Ixworth, 136, 137, 175. J 
 
 J. 
 
 Jericho, 22. . 
 
 Johnson, Dr., anecdotes of, 
 
 31, 59- 
 Jones, Sir Harry, hero of 
 Aliwall, 433. 
 
 K. 
 
 Kay, or Caius, John, birth- 
 place, 216. 
 
 Keddington Church, 143. 
 
 Kelvedon, 27. 
 
 Kennet Stat., 170. 
 
 Kenninghall, 309. 
 
 Kentwell Hall, 117. 
 
 Keswick Hall, 262. 
 
 Kett's Rebellion, 213, 264. 
 
 Ketteringham Church, 263. 
 
 Hall, 263. 
 
 Kimberley Hall, 26;. 
 
 King, Edward, the antiquary, 
 birthplace, 2i6. 
 
 John's House, 304. 
 
 King's Hedges, 384. 
 
 HiU, the " Lawless or 
 
 Whispering Court," 50. 
 
 King's Lynn, 279. 
 
 Kingston Chmch, 441. 
 
 Kirby, the etymologist, 112, 
 171. 
 
 Cross, 55. 
 
 Hall, 71. 
 
 Kirtling Church, 387. 
 
 Hall, 388. 
 
 Knapton Church, 237. 
 
450 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 LACKFORD. 
 
 Lackford, Chnrch of, ijj. 
 Lake House, 71. 
 Lakenhf-ath, j 14. 
 Lambourne, 79. 
 I.aiidbeach Church, J92. 
 I^andguard Fort, 60, 110. 
 I^andseer, Sir Kdwin, 48. 
 Lang, Benjamin, 105. 
 I^angdon Hills, 10, 50. 
 Langford Stat., 47. 
 Langloy Hall, 221. 
 Langham, 25?. 
 Lantern Marshes, 149. 
 Lappitt's Hill, 75. 
 Lark River, 125. 
 Ijawford Church, J9. 
 Lavenhani, or Laneham, 118. 
 
 , Church of S. Peter and 
 
 St. Paul, 118. 
 Laxfield Church, i?4. 
 Layer Marney Hall, 29. 
 Lea River, 2,1 5, 82, 88. 
 
 Bridge, Sj. 
 
 Leigh, 12. 
 
 Leighs, Great, Church, 42. 
 
 Leiston Abbey, 154. 
 
 Church, 154. 
 
 Ironworks, 154. 
 
 Letheringham, 150. 
 Leverington Church, 4?j- 
 Lexden, jo. 
 Ley ton. Low, 72. 
 Leytonstone, 7J. 
 Lindley, Dr., 217. 
 Linnet River, 124. 
 Linton, 442. 
 Litlington, 4^7. 
 Little Glemham Hall, 154. 
 
 Haddam, 92. 
 
 Leighs, 41. 
 
 Littlebury, 100. 
 Littleport, jo6. 
 Livermere Park, ijB. 
 Ijocke, John, 90. 
 Lodge Farm, 4. 
 London to Brain free, 40. 
 to Cambridge, 82, 316, 
 
 454- 
 
 to Chipping Ongar, 72. 
 
 to Harwich, 56. 
 
 to Ipswich, i;, 102. 
 
 to Maiden, 46. 
 
 to Norwich, 185. 
 
 to Southend, 49. 
 
 to Southend by rail, 2. 
 
 Lord's Bridge, 440. 
 Lothing Lake, 160. 
 Loughton, 75. 
 Lound Church, 164. 
 Lowestoft, New, t6o; Inn, 
 
 160; IMcrs, 160; Sea- 
 
 MEKSEA. 
 
 bathing, 160 ; Swing bridge, 
 160; St. John's Churuh, 161. 
 
 Lowestoft, Old, 161 ; 
 Church of St Margaret, 
 162; Denes, 161; Kxcur- 
 sions, 162; Great sea-fighr, 
 162; Iniis, 161; Liuh*- 
 house, 162 ; Town -hall, 
 162. 
 
 Lydgate, iji- 
 
 Lynn, commonly called 
 King's Lj'nn, 27) ; Chapel 
 of the Red Mount, 282; 
 Churches, 280; Grammar 
 School, 282 ; Guildhall, 
 281 ; Inns, 279 ; Local wor- 
 thies, 28 j ; IMuseum, 283 ; 
 Streets, 283 ; Trade, 279. 
 
 Lynn to Kly, 305- 
 
 • to Wells, 29?. 
 
 to Wisbeach, 300. 
 
 Lynn, West, 301. 
 
 M. 
 
 Madingley, 383. 
 
 Hall, 3^■ 
 
 Maldon, 47 ; All Saints' 
 Church, 43 ; Camp, 48 ; 
 History, 47 ; Inns, 47 ; 
 Town-hall, kc, 48. 
 
 Manea Stat., 427. 
 
 Manningtree, 39. 
 
 Maplestead, Great, 67. 
 
 , Little, 66. 
 
 March, 427, 432; St. Wen- 
 dreda's Church, 427. 
 
 Margaretting Church, 21. 
 
 Mark Hall, 28. 
 
 Mark's Hall, 90, 
 
 Tey, JO. 
 
 Marlesford, 150 
 
 Marryatt, Captain, 253. 
 
 Marsham Church, 240. 
 
 Heath, 250. 
 
 Marshland, 300. 
 
 Martham Broad, 231. 
 
 Church, 232. 
 
 Martineau, Harriet, birth- 
 place, 217. 
 
 Melbourne Church, 435. 
 
 Meldreth Stat., 436. 
 
 Melford Hall, 116. 
 
 Long, 115; Church of 
 
 Holy Trinity, 115 ; Clop ton 
 Chapel, 116; Hospital, 116; 
 Inns, 115; Lady Chapel, 
 116. 
 
 Mellis Stat., 174. 
 
 Melton Church, 149. 
 
 Constable, 252. 
 
 Mersea, Church of, 54. 
 
 Island, 54. 
 
 , West, 54. 
 
 NORFOLK. 
 
 Merton Hall, 267. 
 Messing, 29. 
 Mettingham Castle, i8r. 
 
 Church, 181. 
 
 Middle Fen, 392. 
 Middleton, 61. 
 
 Station, 278. 
 
 Mildenhall Road Stat., 314. 
 
 Church, 31 5. 
 
 ^Manor H<>u>e, 315. 
 
 Mib End Stat., 15. 
 Milton, 384. 
 Mistley Hall, 56. 
 
 I horns, 56. 
 
 Monkham.s, 74. 
 i\loor Hall, 90. 
 Morden Uuilden Church, 417. 
 
 Steeple Church, 437 
 
 Morningthorpe, 187, 
 M(iul-;ham Hall, 23. 
 Moulton, 170. 
 Mounds, iji. 
 Mount Amelia, 296. 
 Mountnessing Church, 19. 
 Mousehold Heath, 212. 
 Moyns Park, 71. 
 Mundesley, 237. 
 Murillo, paintings by, 109. 
 Mutford Church, 159. 
 
 N. 
 
 Nacton Heath, iii. 
 
 Narborough Church, 276. 
 
 Hall, 276. 
 
 Narford Hall, 276 ; valuable 
 collection of pictures, 
 coins, medals, statues, &c, 
 276. 
 
 Nash, Thomas, birthplace, 
 162. 
 
 Navestock, 79. 
 
 Naze, The, 56. 
 
 Necton, 271. 
 
 Guild, 271. 
 
 Needham Market, 167. 
 
 Nelson, Lord, birthplace, 261. 
 
 Nene Outfall, The, 303. 
 
 River, Ixiii, 304, 430, 
 
 432. 
 
 Neot's Road, St.. 383. 
 
 Ness, The, 161. 
 
 Nether Hall, 89. 
 
 New Hall, 2?. 
 
 Newbourn Church, 145. 
 
 Nkwmarket, 388; Churches, 
 389 ; " Devil's Ditch," 388 ; 
 Heath, 388; Inns, 388; 
 Racecourse, 388 ; Stables, 
 389. 
 
 Newport Stat., 92. 
 
 Norfolk, Antiquities of, 
 xliii ; Churches, xlv ; Col- 
 lection of pictures, Objects 
 of Art, &c., xlviii; Ge- 
 
INDEX. 
 
 451 
 
 NORFOLK. 
 
 ology, xlviii ; Monastic 
 remains, si vii; Traveller's 
 View, li ; Turkeys, Hi. 
 
 Norfolk and Suffolk : Ex- 
 tent and general character, 
 xxii ; Geology, xlviii; His- 
 tory, XXV ; Traveller's 
 View, li. 
 
 North Repps, Cottage, 248. 
 
 Hall, 248. 
 
 Elver, 2JO. 
 
 Walsham, 2J5. 
 
 North wold, ?i4. 
 
 NoBwicH, 189; Bishop's Pa- 
 lace, 206; Oastle, 192; Ca- 
 thedral, 198 ; Churches, 
 208; L>isiinguished per- 
 sonages, 216; Gates, 207; 
 Grammar School, 208 ; 
 Guildhall, 195 ; Historj', 
 189; Hospital, 212; Hotels, 
 189; Kett's Castle, 212; 
 Literary Institution, 198 ; 
 Lollards' Pit, 212 ; Manu- 
 factures, 215; Market 
 Place, 192 ; Mousehol 1 
 Heath, 212 ; Museum, 197 ; 
 Musical Festival, 197 ; Pop- 
 ulation, 189; Public build- 
 ings, 196 ; Shirehall, 195 ; 
 Snap, the Dragon, 196; St. 
 Andrew's Hall, 196 ; Visit 
 of Queen Elizabeth, 191. 
 
 Norwich to Cromer, 240. 
 
 to East Dereham, 262. 
 
 to Ely, J07. 
 
 to North Walsham, 235. 
 
 to Yarmouth, 221. 
 
 Notley, Black, 40. 
 
 , White, 4a 
 
 Oakington Church, 4J0, 
 Oakley Park, 176. 
 Ockenden, North, Church, 7. 
 
 South, Church, 7 
 
 Olave's Prioiy, St., near Her- 
 
 ringfleet, i6j. 
 Old North Road Stat.. 441. 
 Oldfield Grange, 28. 
 Opie, Mrs., birthplace, 217. 
 Ordnance Factory Stat., 84. 
 Ore River, 147. 
 Orford, 147 ; Castle and 
 
 Church, 147 ; Inns, 147 ; 
 
 Tradition of the Wild 
 
 Man, 149. 
 
 Castle, remains of, 146. 
 
 Orfordness, 149. 
 
 Ormsby Broad, 2jo. 
 
 St. Margaret, Church, 
 
 230. 
 St. Michael, Church, 2jo. 
 
 QUIDDENIIAM. 
 
 Oiwell Park, 109; fine col- 
 lection of pictures, 109. 
 
 River, 58, 60, loB. 
 
 Osyth St., Church, 5j. 
 
 , Priory, S3. 
 
 Otes, 91. 
 Othona, 49. 
 Oulton Broad, 160. 
 
 Church, 162. 
 
 Hall, 162. 
 
 Ouse River, 451. 
 
 Great, Ixiii, 279. 
 
 Little, Ixiv, 310, jij. 
 
 Outwell, 4J4. 
 Over Church, 431. 
 Overstrand Church, 248. 
 Oyster beds, 52. 
 Oxburgh Church, 276. 
 
 Hall, 274. 
 
 King's Room, 276. 
 
 Oxuead, 240. 
 
 P. 
 
 Paine, Thomas, birthplace, 
 
 312. 
 Palgrave, 176. 
 Pampisford Hall, ji6. 
 Pant, Gwin, or Blackwater 
 
 River, 100. 
 Papworth St. Agnes, 440. 
 
 St. Everard, 440. 
 
 Parham, 150. 
 
 Park Stat., 8j. ' 
 
 Parker, Abp. Matthew, 216. 
 
 Paston, 238. 
 
 Pebmarsh Church, 67. 
 
 Perrers, Alice, 252. 
 
 Peterborough, 430. 
 
 Pishiobury Park, 91. 
 
 Pitsea Stat., 10. 
 
 ' Playe of the Holy Martyr, 
 
 Seynt George,' 437. 
 Play ford Church, 144 . 
 Pleshy, 81 ; Ca£tle,8i ; Church, 
 
 81 ; College, 81 ; Mount, 81. 
 Ponder's End, 84. 
 Poringland, Great, 188. 
 Prior, Matthew, 90. 
 Prittlewell Church, ij. 
 
 Priory, ij. 
 
 Purfleet, 5. 
 
 I^imeworks, 5. 
 
 Powder Magazine, 5. 
 
 Pyefleet Channel, 55. 
 Pyrgo, 18. 
 
 Quarles, Francis, 17. 
 Quendon, 92. 
 Quiddenham Church, 509. 
 Hall. 309. 
 
 RODIXG. 
 
 R. 
 
 Radwinter, 100. 
 
 Rainham, 5. 
 
 Church, 238. 
 
 Hall, 287; Gallery" of 
 
 pictures, 287. 
 
 Rampton Church, 4J0. 
 
 Ramsholt Church, 146. 
 
 Ransome and Sims, Messrs., 
 Factory of, 108. 
 
 Ran worth Church, 231. 
 
 Ray, John, the naturalist, 
 birthplace, 40. 
 
 Kaydon Church, iij. 
 
 Rayleigh Church, 50. 
 
 Mouiid, 50. 
 
 Rayne Hall, 52. 
 
 Kedeuhall Church, 179. ] 
 
 Redgrave Church, 176. 
 
 Hall, 175. 
 
 Redlingfield, 172. 
 
 Reedham Junct., 221. 
 
 Reepham Church, 242. 
 
 ]{ecve, Clara, 105. 
 
 Reudlesham Church, 146. 
 
 Hall, 146. 
 
 Repton, Humphrey, 241. 
 
 Reservoir, the Northern Out- 
 fall, 3. 
 
 Rickling Church, 92. 
 
 Rickinghall Inferior, 175. 
 
 Ridgewell, 71. 
 
 Ringstead St. Andrew, 
 Church, 299. 
 
 Riaby Church, 170. 
 
 Rivenhall, 40. 
 
 Rivers : Aide, 147, 149 ; Ant, 
 2ii, 2J7; Bedford, 406; 
 Blackwater, 28,47,48, loo; 
 Blythe, 158; Brain, 46, 47; 
 Bure, 220, 2?o, 241 ; Cam, 
 519, Ixv; Can, 22; Chel- 
 mer, 22, 45, 47 ; Colne, 39, 
 63 ■ Crouch, 52 ; Debeii, 
 hi; Dove, 177; Gipping, 
 loj, 168 ; Granta, 92 ; Lark, 
 125; Lea, 2, 15, 82, 88; 
 Linnet, 124; Nene, Ixiii, 
 30, 44; North, 230; Ore, 
 147 ; Orwell, 58, 60, 108 ; 
 Ouse, 4JI, Ixiii, Ixv, 279, 
 310, 313; Roding, 75; 
 Stiffkey, 289; Sioit, 91; 
 Stour, 40, 58, 102, 141, 143 ; 
 Thet, 310; Waveney, 160, 
 179, 185; Wensum, 189, 
 217, 270. 285; Yare, 161. 
 
 Rivers's Nursery Garden, 91. 
 
 Rochetts, 18. 
 
 Rochford, 51. 
 
 Hall. 51. 
 
 Roding Abbot's (or Abbess), 
 
452 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 BODING. 
 
 Rodin g Aythori)e, 80. 
 
 Beauchamp, 80. 
 
 — — Beniers, 80. 
 
 High, 80. 
 
 Leading, 80. 
 
 Margarets, 80. 
 
 White, 80. 
 
 Roding River, "j?. 
 
 Rodney Hill, The, 24. 
 
 Romford, 16. 
 
 Rood Screens, iii, 150, 158, 
 173, 175. 1B6, 2;i, 2j5, 236, 
 2J7, 241,242, 3o3, 31J. 
 
 Pose Hall, 184. 
 
 Roiidham, 310. 
 
 Rougham, iji, 170. 
 
 Roundhead, origin of name, 
 144. 
 
 Rowe, Sir Thomas, 73. 
 
 Rowton Church, 245. 
 
 Roxwell Church, 80. 
 
 Roydon Church, 89. 
 
 Hall, 186. 
 
 Royston, 434 ; anecdote of 
 King James, 435 ; Church, 
 4J5 ; Inns, 434. 
 
 to Huntingdon, 436. 
 
 Runton, 251. 
 
 Rushbroke Hall, 133; large 
 Collection of Portraits, 133. 
 
 Rushmere Church, 144. 
 
 Ryburgh, Chirrch of St. An- 
 drew, 286. 
 
 Rye House Plot, 89. 
 
 Stat., 89. 
 
 s. 
 
 Saffron Walden, 98; Castle, 
 99 ; Church, 98 ; Inn, 98 ; 
 Museum, 99 ; Public Build- 
 ings, 100; the Maze, 99; 
 the Sun Inn, 100. 
 
 Salle Church, 242. 
 
 Park, 242. 
 
 Sampfoud, Great, 100. 
 
 Sandringham, 295. 
 
 Church, 296. 
 
 Santon Downham, 313. 
 
 Sapiston, 139. 
 
 Sawbridgeworth, 91. 
 
 Sawston Hall, 316. 
 
 Saxham, 170. 
 
 , Great, Church of, 131- 
 
 Hall, 131. 
 
 , Little, Church of, 170. 
 
 Saxlingham, 253. 
 
 Saxmundham, 154. 
 
 Seaming Church, 271. 
 
 Scole, 176. 
 
 Seckford HaU, 45. 
 
 Sedgeford, 299. 
 
 Shelf ord Stat., 317. 
 
 , Great, Church, 317. 
 
 , Little, Church, 317. 
 
 STOKE-BY-NAYLAND. 
 
 Shenfield, 19. 
 
 Shepreth Stat. 436. 
 
 Sherringham, 247. 
 
 Bower, 250. 
 
 Shipdam, 267. 
 
 Shoeburj-ness, 13. 
 
 Shoebury, South, Church, 15. 
 
 Shortgrove Hall, 93. 
 
 Shotley, no. 
 
 Shottesham Park, 188. 
 
 Shrubland Hall, 167. 
 
 Park, 112. 
 
 Sible Hedingham, 67. 
 
 Sibton Church, 156. 
 
 Sidestrand, 249. 
 
 Six Mile Bottom Stat., 387. 
 
 Skeleton Tours, Ixxiii. 
 
 Smeeth Road Stat., 306. 
 
 Smith, Sir James, 162, 217. 
 
 Snailwell Church, 290. 
 
 Snape Priory, 154. 
 
 Snaresbrook, 73 ; Inn, 73 ; 
 Merchant Seamen's Orphan 
 Asylum, 73; Stat, 16. 
 
 Snettisham Church, 296. 
 
 Snoring, Great, 287. 
 
 , Little, 287. 
 
 Soham, 422. 
 
 Somerleyton Hall, 163. 
 
 Somersham, 431. 
 
 Somerton, West, Church, 232. 
 
 Sotterley Hall, 159, 
 
 South Bailey Lodge, 84. 
 
 Benfleet, 10. 
 
 Southchurch, 13. 
 
 Southend, 12 ; Baths, 13 ; 
 Crowstone, 13 ; Inns, 12 ; 
 Pier, 1 2 ; Terrace, 12. 
 
 Southwold, 158; Bay, 158; 
 Church, 158; Great naval 
 fight, 158 ; Inns, 158. 
 
 Spinney Priory, 424. 
 
 Springfield, 23. 
 
 Stalham, 231. 
 
 Stamford Hill, 83. 
 
 Stanfield Hall, 265. 
 
 Stanford- le-Hope, lo. 
 
 Stanhoe, 299. 
 
 Stanningfield Church, 119. 
 
 Stanton, Long, 430. 
 
 Stanstead Hall, 64. 
 
 Mount Fitchet, 92. 
 
 Steamers to Southend, 15. 
 
 Stebbing, 45. 
 
 Steeple Bumstead, 71. 
 
 Stetchwork Church, 387. 
 
 Stewards," birthplace of Fran- 
 cis Quarles, 17. 
 
 Stiffkey, 262. 
 
 River, 289. 
 
 StifFord Church, 7. 
 
 Stock Cliurch, 21. 
 
 Stoke Church, 143. 
 
 Park, 109. 
 
 Stoke-by-Nayland, 114. 
 
 TERRINGTON. 
 
 Stokesby, 2 ?o. 
 Stondon Massey Church, 79. 
 Stonea Stat., 427. 
 Stonham Aspall, 168. 
 
 , Earl, 168. 
 
 Stort River, 89, 91. 
 
 Stour River, 40, 58, 102, 141, 
 
 143- 
 
 Stow Bardolph, 306. 
 
 Hall, 306. 
 
 Langtoft Hall, 175. 
 
 , West, Manor, 138. 
 
 Siowmarket, 168 ; Church, 
 
 168; Inns, 168. 
 Siradbrook, 178. 
 Stratford. 103. 
 
 Abbey, 2. 
 
 Station, 15, 82. 
 
 Stratton House, 187. 
 
 , St. Mary's Church, 187. 
 
 Strawless, 240. 
 
 Streethall Church, loi. 
 Stretham Bridge, 392. 
 Stroud, The, 55. 
 Stunner Stat., 14?. 
 Stuntney Chapel, 422. 
 Sudboume Hall 147. 
 Sudbury, 61; Churches, 61; 
 
 Iims, 61 ; Manufactures, 
 
 61. 
 Sudbury to Cambridge, 140. 
 
 to Thetford, 115. 
 
 Suffolk, Antiquities, xxxv ; 
 
 Churches, xl ; Collections 
 
 of Pictures, &c., xliii ; 
 
 Military and Domestic 
 
 Architecture, xlii ; Rivers, 
 
 xxiv. 
 Surlingham Broad, 220. 
 Sutton, 146, 425. 
 
 Bridge Stat., 303. 
 
 Washway, 304. 
 
 Swaffham, 271. 
 
 Bulbeck, 387. 
 
 Prior, 387. 
 
 Swainsthorpe Stat., 188. 
 Swanston Morley, 270. 
 Swavesey, 4;!. 
 South Weald, 18 ; Church,i8 ; 
 
 Park, 18; fine Collection of 
 
 Pictures, 18. 
 Syleham, 177. 
 
 T. 
 
 Takeley Stat., 46. 
 Tasburgh, 187. 
 Taverham Paper Mills, 220. 
 Taylor, William, Author of 
 
 ' English Synonyms,' 217. 
 Tenison, Abp., birthplace, 
 
 392- 
 Terling Place, 25. 
 Terrington Dyke, 301. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 453 
 
 TERRIKGTON. 
 
 Terrington Stat., 301. 
 Teversham Church, J85. 
 Tey, Great, Church, jo. 
 
 , Mark's, 30. 
 
 Thasted, 45 ; Church, 46 ; 
 
 Guildhall, 46. 
 Thehietham Church, 175. 
 Thelveton Hall, iT]. 
 Theobald's Park, 84. 
 
 Square, 85. 
 
 Thet River, 510. 
 
 Thetford, ^10; Castle Hill, 
 
 ^12; Churches, jii; Free 
 
 Grammar School, ji2 ; lun, 
 
 J 10; Priory, 310. 
 Theydon Bois, 75. 
 
 ~ Mount Church, 76. 
 
 I'hoby Priory, 20. 
 
 Thomas, John, sculptor, 163. 
 
 Thorington, 55. 
 
 TTiorndon Hall, 19; pictures 
 
 and relics, 19. 
 Thomey Abbey, 428. 
 
 Church, 429. 
 
 , Red Book of, 429. 
 
 Thomham Park, 174. 
 Thorpe Abbots, 176. 
 
 , East, Church, 29. 
 
 . Old Hall, 217. 
 
 Thorpe-le-Soken, 55. 
 Thorpland Hall, 289. 
 Thorrington Hall, 157. 
 Thrandeston Bog, 185. 
 Thremhall, 9?. 
 Thurrock, Grays, 6 
 
 , Little, 6. 
 
 , West, 6. 
 
 Thurston, 170. 
 Thuxton Stat, 267. 
 Thwaite Church, 181. 
 Tilbury Slat., 8. 
 
 > , East, 9. 
 
 , West, 8. 
 
 , near Yeldham, 71. 
 
 Tilney All Saints, 302. 
 Tiltey, 45. 
 Tiptree Hall, 27. 
 Tittleshall Church, 286. 
 Tivetshall, 187. 
 Tolleshunt Magna, 48. 
 Tottenham, Sj. 
 'Tracts for the Times,' first 
 
 planned at Hadleigh, 114. 
 Trimingham Church, 249. 
 Trimley St. Mary, iii. 
 
 St. Martin, iii. 
 
 Trimmer, Mrs., 105. 
 Troston, 138. 
 Trowse Stat., 262. 
 
 Hall, 262. 
 
 Trumpington Church, 383. 
 
 Hall, 383. 
 
 Trunch Church, 237. 
 Tuddenham Church, 144. 
 Tumuli, 21, 4?5. 
 \^Essex, &C.'] 
 
 WANSTEAD. 
 
 Tunstead Church, 236. 
 Turpin, Dick, birthplace, 72, 
 Tusser, Thomas, birthplace, 
 
 40. 
 Twuisted Hall, 61. 
 
 u. 
 
 Ufford Church, 149. 
 
 Unwin, the Kev. William, 21. 
 
 Uphall, 4. 
 
 Upminster, 7. 
 
 Upwell Church, 434. 
 
 V. 
 
 Valentines, 16. 
 Vermuyden's Drain, 432. 
 
 w. 
 
 Wake's Colne, 60. 
 
 Waldiugfleld, Great, Church, 
 117. 
 
 Wallbury, 91. 
 
 Wallington Hall, 306. 
 
 Walpole, Sir Robert, 285. 
 
 S;. Andrew's, 303. 
 
 St. Peter's, 303. 
 
 Walsham-le-Willows, 175. 
 
 Walsixgham, New or 
 Little, 289 ; Our Lady of, 
 289; Parish Church, 292; 
 Priory, remains of, 290; 
 Ruins of Franciscan Con- 
 vent, 292. 
 
 , Old or Great, 292. 
 
 Walsoken Church, 305. 
 
 Waltham Abbey, 85 ; Abbey 
 Church, 88 ; Gunpowder 
 Mills, 88 ; History, 85 ; 
 Inns, 86; Parish Church, 
 87. 
 
 'Waltham Cross, 84. 
 
 Forest, 88. 
 
 Stat., 84. 
 
 Walthamstow, 83 ; Church, 
 83 ; Grammar School, In- 
 stitution, and other Chari- 
 ties, 83. 
 
 Walton-on-the-Naze, 55 ; 
 Church, 56; Cliff, 56; 
 Crescent Pier, 56 ; Inns, 55. 
 
 Walton Churc'i, in. 
 
 , West, CL irch, 305. 
 
 AVandlebury Camp, 318. 
 
 Wangford, 158. 
 
 Wanstcad Church, 73- 
 
 House, 73. 
 
 Infant Orphan Asy- 
 lum, 73. 
 
 WINGPIELD. 
 
 Wardstaff, watching and 
 warding, 77. 
 
 Warley Common, 19. 
 
 Warren Hill, 390. 
 
 Wash, The, 300. 
 
 Waterbeach, 391. 
 
 Watlingham Junction, 305. 
 
 Watton Church, 267. 
 
 Waveney River, 160, 179, 18 j. 
 
 Weald, North, 77. 
 
 , South, 18. 
 
 Weeley Stat., 55. 
 
 Weeting Hall, 313. 
 
 Wells, 254, 292, 300. 
 
 Welnetham, 120. 
 
 Wenden Church, 93. 
 
 Wendling Stat., 271. 
 
 Wenham Church, 113. 
 
 , Great, Church, 113. 
 
 Hall, 112. 
 
 , Little, 112. 
 
 Wensum River, 189, 217, 
 270, 285. 
 
 Wentworth Church, 426. 
 
 West Ham, 2. 
 
 Somerton Church, 232. 
 
 Stow Manor, 138. 
 
 Watton Church, 305. 
 
 Westerfield, 144, 171, 
 
 AVestley Waterless Church, 
 307. 
 
 Wetherden Church, 169. 
 
 Weybourne, 2^0. 
 
 Weyland, or ' Wailing Wood,' 
 267. 
 
 Wherstead Church, 109. 
 
 Lodge, 109. 
 
 Whitaker, birthplace, 289. 
 
 White AVebbs, 84. 
 
 Whittlesea, 427 ; St. Mary's 
 Church, 427. 
 
 Mere, 427. 
 
 Stat., 427. 
 
 - — Wash, 428. 
 
 Whittlesford, 316. 
 
 Wicken, 424. 
 
 Bonant Church, 92. 
 
 Wickes, 57. 
 
 Wickham Bishops, 46. 
 
 Market, 149. 
 
 Wilbraham, Great, 386. 
 
 , Little, ?36. 
 
 Wilburton Church, 424. 
 : Willinghale 1 )ou Church, 80. 
 
 I Spain Church, 80. 
 
 ; Willingham Church, 431. 
 
 Wimbish Church, 100. 
 
 Wimblingtoii Stat., 432. 
 
 Wimbotsham Church. 306. 
 
 Wimpole Church, 438. 
 
 j Park, 4}8. 
 
 I Winch, East, 278. 
 
 Winfarthing Church, 186. 
 
 Old Oak, 187. 
 
 Wingfield, 178. 
 
 X 
 
454 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 WIKSTAXLEV. 
 
 Winstanlf j\ Henry, loo. 
 Winterton Church, 232. 
 
 Ness, 2J2. 
 
 Winthiop, John, first Gover- 
 nor of New Knglaiid, 115. 
 WisBEACH, 432; Churches, 
 
 4J3 ; Corn Market, 452; 
 
 Imports, 43 J ; Inns, 432; 
 
 Museum, 4?j. ' 
 
 Witcham Church, 426. 
 Witham, 26, 40. 
 Witlow Church, 237. 
 Witneshara, 171. 
 Wivenhoe, 5J. 
 
 Hall, 5?. 
 
 Park, 5 J. 
 
 Wolferton, 295. 
 
 Wolsey, Cardinal, birthplace, 
 
 104. 
 Wolterton Hall, 245. 
 Wood Ditton, 387. 
 WooDBKiDGE, 145 ; Abbey. 
 
 145 ; Almshouses, 145 ; 
 
 Church, 145 ; Grammar 
 
 WYMONDHAM. 
 
 School, 14; ; Inns, 145 ; 
 
 Priory, 145. 
 Woodcock, Elizabeth, 430. 
 Woodford, 73 ; Church, 73 ; 
 
 Itms, 7? ; Sidney Smith 
 
 (Peter Plymley), 74. 
 Woodford Wells, 74. 
 Woodham Mortimi^r Church, 
 
 48. 
 Woolpit Church, 169. 
 
 , Remarkable Story, 169. 
 
 Woolverstone Hall, 109. 
 Woolwich, North, 3. 
 Wootton Stat, 29?. 
 Worlingham Hall, 184. 
 Wormingford, 61. 
 Worstead, 2?6. 
 Wortham, 176. 
 Wortwell, 179. 
 Wrabness, 57. 
 Wretham Stat., 312. 
 Writtle Park, 7 3. 
 Wroxham Broad, 220. 
 Wymondham, 263 ; Cliurch, 
 
 YELDHAM. 
 
 263 ; Fair, 265 : Inns, 163 ;• 
 William Kelt, 264. 
 Wyverstone Church, 174. 
 
 Yare River, i6r. 
 
 Yakjiouth, 222 ; Bloaters, 
 228; Churches, 226; David 
 Coppertield, 222 ; Denes, 
 229 ; Excursion?, 229 ; 
 Herring fishery, 228; His- 
 tory, 222 ; Hot 'Is, 222 ; 
 Jetty, 227 ; Nelson Column, 
 225 ; Population, 222 ; 
 Quay, 224; Rows, 224; 
 Town Hall and Public 
 Buildings, 225 ; Yarmouth 
 Roads, 227. 
 
 Yaxham Stat., 267. 
 
 Yeldham, Great, Church, 71. 
 
 Oak, 7 1 . 
 
 Stat., 71- 
 
 THE END. 
 
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 MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES' ORNAMENTS 
 OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC, 
 
 LUNG' ARNO NUOVO, 1, AND BORG' OGNISSANTI, 2, 
 
 "TNVITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Estcablishment, where 
 may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful 
 Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables 
 and other Ornaments executed to any Design. 
 
 T. BiANCHiNi's Correspondents in England are Messrs. J, & R. M'Crackek, 
 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 BRIEN2— INTERLACKEN. 
 J. GEOSSMANN, 
 
 SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTURER OF SWISS 
 
 WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, 
 
 Carved and Inlaid Furniture manufactured to any Design, 
 
 AT ZlO'TERX.ACKZZlir. 
 
 triS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof, 
 
 where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be 
 
 found in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCeacken, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Sb-eet, E.C., London. 
 
 PISA. 
 
 GIUSEPPE^NDREONI, 
 
 Sculptor in Alabaster and Marble and Objects 
 
 of Fine Art, 
 
 NO. 8?2, VIA SANTA MARIA, 
 
 WHERE 
 
 A GREAT ASSORTMENT OF FINE ARTS, SCULPTURE, &c., 
 
 CAN BE SEEN. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, May^ 
 
 T H U N. 
 
 JEAN KEHRLI-STERCHI, 
 
 .Sculptor ill M00tr, 
 
 AND 
 
 MANUFACTURER OP SWISS MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, 
 
 For 26 years at the Woodwork Establishment at the Giessbach Falls, 
 eldest son of the founder of said establishment, 
 
 INVITES the attention of English tourists to his Establishment at the Bellevuc 
 Hotel, Thun, where a choice assortment of Swiss Wood Carvings may always 
 be seen. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J, & R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street, London. 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 WIMMER & CO., 
 
 GALLERY OF FINE ARTS. 
 
 3, BRIENNEE STEEET, 
 
 Invite the Nobility and Gentry to visit their Gallery or Fine Arts, containing 
 
 an Extensive Collection of 
 
 MODERN PAINTINGS 
 
 by the best Slunich Artists, 
 
 PAINTIN«.*i ON POBCE1.AIIV AND ON C5I.AS9. 
 
 also a large Assortment of 
 
 PHOTOGEAPHS, 
 
 including the complete Collections of the vario\:s Public Galleries. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 Correspondents in the United States^ Messrs. Keller & LiNGG, 97, Reade 
 Street, ^ew York. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 G^ E TV O ^- 
 
 HORACE AUGUSTE MOSSA, 
 
 AND 
 
 MANUFACTURER OF GOLD AND SILVER FILAGREE WORK, 
 
 Which obtained PRIZE MEDAL at the Universal Exhibition 
 of London in 1851. 
 
 His Establishments are situated in the Grande Albergo d'ltalia 
 and Albergo Croce di Malta, in Yia del Campo, near the Porta di 
 Yacca ; he also keeps a Depository in the Grande Albergo di Genova. 
 He undertakes the execution of all Commissions with exactitude, 
 and guarantees his Works to be of pure Gold and Silver, and Silver 
 doubly gilt. Travellers are invited to visit his Establishments without 
 obligation to purchase. 
 
 Correspondents in England —Messrs. J. & R. MeCRACKEIfl", 
 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 MR. TENNANT, GEOLOGIST, 149, STRAND, LONDON, 
 W.C., gives practical Instruction ia Mineralogy and Geology. He can also supply 
 Elementary Collections of Minerals, Rocks, and Fossils, on the following terms: — 
 
 100 Small Specimens, in cabinet, with three trays £2 2 
 
 *200 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with five trayd 5 5 
 
 300 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with eight drawers . . . . 10 10 
 400 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with twelve drawers .... 21 
 ]\Iore extensive collections, to illustrate Geology, at 50 to 100 Guineas each, with every 
 requisite to assist those commencing the study of this interesting science, a knowledge of 
 which affords so much pleasure to the traveller in all parts of the world. 
 
 ♦ A collection for Five Guineas wliich will illustrate the recent works on Geology by 
 Ansted, liuckland, Jukes, Lyell, Murchlson, Page, Phillips, and contains 200 Specimens, in 
 a cabinet, wjth five trays, comprising the following, viz.: — 
 
 Minerals which are either the components of Piocks, or occasionallj' imbedded in them : — 
 Quartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Garnet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Augite, Asbestus, Felspaff, 
 Mica, Talc, Tourmaline, Zircon, Topaz, Spinel, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Baryta, 
 Strontia, Salt, Cryolite, Sulphur, Plumbago, Bitumen, Jet, &c. 
 
 :SATrvE Metals or Metalliferous Minerals: these are found in masses, in beds, or in 
 veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivers. Specimens of the following are contained in 
 the Cabinet :— Iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver, Gold, PIatina,&c. 
 Rocks: — Granite.Gneiss, Mica-slate, Porphyry ,Serpentine,Sandstones, Limestones, Lavas, ^fcc. 
 Paleozoic Fossils, from the Llandeilo, \Venlock,Lndlow, Devonian, and CarbonilerousRocks, 
 Secoxdart Fossils, from the Trias, Lias, Oolite, Wealden, and Cretaceous Groups. 
 Tertiai:!' F0.SSILS, from theWoolwicb, Barton, and Bracklesham Beds, London Clay,Crag, &c. 
 In the more expensive Collections some of the Specimens are rare, and all more select. 
 
 ELEMENTARY LECTURES ON MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY, 
 
 adapted to young persons, are given by J. TENNANT, F.R.G.S., at his residence, 149, 
 STRAND, W.C, and Private Ikstrcctiox to Travellers, Engineers, Emigrants, Landed 
 Proprietors, and others, illustrated by an extensive collection of Specimens, Diagrams, 
 Models, &c.' 
 
 All ihe recent works relating to Mineralogy, Geology, Conchology, and Chemistry; also 
 Geological Maps, Models, Diagrams, Hammers, Blowpipes, Magnifying Glasses, Platina Spoons, 
 Electrometer and Magnetic Needle, Glass-top Boxes, Microscopic Objects, Acid Bottles, &c., 
 can be supplied to tne Student in these interesting and important branches of Science. 
 
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mar, 
 
 COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. 
 
 JOHANN MARIA FARINA, 
 GEGENiJBER DEM JULICII'S PLATZ 
 
 (Opposite the Julich's Place), 
 
 PUnVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; 
 
 TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ; 
 
 TO H. M. THE KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; 
 
 THE EMPEROR OF FRANCE; 
 
 THE KING OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC., 
 
 OP THE 
 
 ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE, 
 
 Which obtained the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition 
 
 0/1867, 
 
 ^FHE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most 
 -L part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request 
 the attention of English travellers to the following statement : — 
 
 The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by 
 my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it; and in order to be able 
 to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro- 
 cured themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name, 
 which is a very common one in Italy, 
 
 Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti- 
 cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina, 
 but also the additional words, gegeniiber dem Julich's Platz (that is, opposite the Julich's 
 Place), without addition of any number. 
 
 Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against 
 being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services 
 to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house, 
 situated opposite the Julich's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the 
 said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, 
 notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of 
 the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a 
 high price and a bad article. 
 
 Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters 
 commissioners, &c., ofl'er to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one 
 and that I delivered it to them for the pui-pose of selling it for my account. 
 
 The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my 
 house, opposite the Julich's Place, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt 
 and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the three 
 bear my name and firm, Johann Maria Farina, Gegeniiber dem Julich's Platz, 
 
 The excellence of Tny manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the 
 Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851 and 1862, awarded to me the Prize Medal ; 
 that 1 obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris. 1855; and received 
 the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1SG7, and in 
 Oporto 1865, 
 
 Cologne, January, 1869. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, 
 
 GEGENUBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ. 
 
 *♦* My Agency in London is at Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Quee7i 
 Street, Cannon Street, E.C, 
 
1S7I. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 PRAGUE. 
 
 WILLIAM HOFMANN, 
 
 BOHEMIAN GLASS MANUFACTURER, 
 
 TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEUOR OF AUSTRIA, 
 
 HOTEL BLUE STAR, 
 
 Recommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in 
 Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold, 
 at the same moderate prices, at his Establishments. 
 
 Correspondents in London, Messrs, J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 88, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Sti-eet, E.G. Goods forwarded direct to England, America, ^c 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 JOHN AGLIETTI AND SONS, 
 
 ARTISTS, 
 
 GROUND FLOOR, No. 15, VIA MAGGIO, * 
 
 Have a large Collection of Ancient and Modern Original Paintings, and also Copies 
 I'rom the most celebrated Masters. 
 
 Copies, Carved Frames, Gilt or Plain, made to order, and forwarded with 
 despatch to all parts of the world. 
 
 Correspondents in England, JMessrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, of No. 38, Queen 
 Street, Cannon Street, E.G., London. 
 
 V I E N NA. 
 
 The most extensive Warehouse for Bohemian White and Coloured 
 
 Crystal Glass. 
 
 J. & L. LOBMEYR, 
 
 GLASS MANUFACTURERS, 
 
 No. 13, KaRNTHNERSTRASSE. 
 
 All kinds of Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass; Table, Dessert, and 
 other Services ; Vas>es, Candelabras,Chandeliers, Looking-glasses; Articles of Luxury, 
 in Crystal Glass, mounted in Bronze, and in Carved Wood. They obtained the 
 Prize Medal at the International Exhibitions of 1862 and 18G7. 
 
 The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. — The English 
 language is spoken. 
 
 Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'Cracken, No. 38, 
 Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.G., London, will transmit all orders with tie 
 greatest care and attention. 
 
10 M0tlRArs HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI, 
 
 A Pt T I S T S, 
 Ho. 8, VIA ROMAHA, 
 
 Opposite tite Museum of Natural Ilistorij (Specola^, and near the Fitti Gallery. 
 
 ile.stiiy. Costa and Conti keep the largest collection in Florence of original 
 Ancient and Modern Pictures, as well as Copies of all the most celebrated Masters. 
 
 N.B. — English spoken. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Stieet, 
 Cannon Street, E.G., London. 
 
 STOCKHOLM. 
 
 C. E. FlilTZE, 
 
 BOOKSELLEB, 
 
 OrSilTAVE AOOIiFS TOMe^ (Square), 
 
 (NEXT HOUSE TO THE RYDBERG HOTEL). 
 
 Scandinavian^ English, French, and German Boohs. 
 
 TRAVELLING MAPS AND HANDBOOKS. 
 
 Views of Stockholm, and Swedish and jNorwegian Peasant 
 Costumes, in Photograph and Lithograph. 
 
 "BRADSHAWS RAILWAY GUIDE "and "HEXDSCHEL'S TELEGRAPH." 
 
 0. E. FEITZE, Eookseller, Gnstaf Adolfs Torg, Stockholm. 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 CARLO^ONTI, 
 
 OPTICIAN AND PHOTOGRAPHER, 
 
 Who gained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibition of 1862, and whose 
 House is acknowledged to be the first of the kind in the City, is th.e Inventor of 
 the Optical Instrument known under the name 
 
 MEGALETHOSCOPE, 
 (first called Alethoscope), the most peifoct instrument for magnifying photographs 
 and showing tlicm Avith the effects of nia;ht and day. His 
 
 ISOPERISCOPIC SPECTACLES 
 
 gained Medals at the Exhibitions of Paris and Padua, and were pronounced by the 
 scientific bodies to be superior in principle to all otheis, as well as being more 
 moderate in price. 
 
 His Photographic Establishment is in the Piazza San Marco, No. 52, near the Cafe 
 Florian; and his Optical Establishment at Riva dei SchiaA'oni, No. 4180, near the 
 Albergo Reale. 
 Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street, 
 annon Street, E.G. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 11 
 
 FRANKFORT, 
 
 P. A. TACCHPS SUCCESSOR, 
 
 !E1<:1Ij, ISO. 44^ 
 
 IB©MEMlIx^H FAICY (BMie AMID) ClYSTAIL 
 WAIRlHOHJeEo 
 
 p. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOE, Manufacturer of Bohemian 
 Glass, begs to acquaint the Public that he has always an extensive 
 Assortment in the Newest and most Elegant Designs of 
 
 ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, 
 
 BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED, 
 
 In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabras, Articles for the Tabic 
 and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful 
 branch of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a 
 continuance of the favours of the Public, which he has enjoyed in 
 ■60 high a degree during a considerable number of years, 
 
 P. A. Tacchi's Successor has a Branch Establishment during the 
 Summer Season at 
 
 WIESBADEN, in the Old Colonnade, No. 1, 
 
 OPPOSITE THE THEATRE, 
 
 Where will always be found an extensive Selection of the newest 
 Articles from his Franl^fort Establishment. 
 
 Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the Show 
 Rooms of Mr. P. A. Tacchi's Successor. 
 
 His Correspondent in England, to whom he undertakes to forward 
 Purchases made of him, is Mr. LOUIS HENLE, 3, Budge 
 Row, Cannon Street, London, E.C. 
 
12 MailRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEliTlSKR. :^]ay, 
 
 CHARLES CARR & CO., 
 
 {Mr. CAI;n, h'.tc of the Finn of OLIVIER ^- CARR), 
 
 14, BISHOPSGATE STEEET ¥/ITHIN, LONDON, E.G., 
 COMMISSION MERCHANTS, 
 
 General Agents for the Reception and Shipment of Goods from 
 and to all Parts of the World, 
 
 AND 
 
 WINE MERCHANTS. 
 
 pHAKLES CAER & CO. have the honour to infonii 
 VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT, 
 
 that tliey icecive and pass through the Custom House in Loncloii, Liv(rj)0o1, 
 
 Soiithanipton, iS:c., 
 
 WOBKS of Art, BAGGAGE, and PEOPEETY of EVERY DESCRIFTION ; 
 
 which are attended to on Arrival urider their Personal Superintendence, 
 with the utmost Care in Examination and Eemoval, 
 
 AND AT 
 
 very Moderate Charges, 
 
 regulated according to the value of the Package?, and the care and at ten lion 
 
 required. 
 
 Keys of all locked Packages should be sent to C. C. & Co., as everything must he 
 examined on anival, although not liable to duty. 
 
 CHARLES CARR & CO. also undertake the 
 
 FORWAEDINa OP PACKAGES OP EVERY KIND, 
 
 which can be sent to the caie of their Correspondents, to remain, if required, until 
 applied for by the owners ; also 
 
 THE EXECUTION of OEDEES for the PUECHASE of GOODS, 
 
 of all kinds, which from tlieir long experience as Commission ^Merchants, they aie 
 enabled to buy en the most advantageous terms. 
 
 Residents on the Continent will fuid this a convenient means of ordering anythlr.g 
 they may require from London. 
 
 INSURANCES EFFECTED, AND AGENCY StJSINESS OF EVERY 
 DESCRIPTION ATTENDED TO 
 
 I^ACKAGES WaR!:HOUSKD at MODKHATi: PaTJCS of PtEXt. 
 
1871, 
 
 MUIlllAYS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 13 
 
 €HAS. CAKK 
 
 At Aix-la-ChaptUe 
 „ Antwerp 
 „ Basle . 
 „ Berlin 
 „ Bologna 
 „ Bordeaux 
 „ Boulogne 
 „ Brui-sds 
 „ Calais . 
 „ Cologne 
 „ Dresden 
 „ Florence 
 „ Frankfort 
 „ Geneva 
 „ Genoa . 
 „ Hamburg 
 „ Ham-e . 
 „ Interlaclcen 
 „ Leipzig 
 „ Leghorn 
 „ Malta . 
 „ Marseilles 
 „ Milan . 
 „ Manich 
 „ Naples 
 „ Nice 
 „ Ostend 
 „ Paris . 
 
 „ Pau 
 „ Prague 
 „ Borne . 
 „ Rotterdam 
 „ Turin . 
 „ Venice . 
 
 Vienna 
 
 Any other houses 
 Travellers are reque 
 
 & 
 
 CO. S principal C orrrspoiidcisls are — 
 
 Messrs. A. SOUHKUR and CO. 
 
 Messrs. VLEUtiELS and CO. 
 
 Mr. J. WILD, 12, Sceinonthorstrasse, 
 
 Mr. J. A. KISCHKR. A^ent to the Court. 
 
 Mes.srs. ANTONIO MAZZKVTl and CO. 
 
 Messrs. ALBRKCHT and F1L8. 
 
 Messrs. L. BRANLY and CO., 81, Rue Napoleon. 
 
 Mr. G. LUYCKX, 24, Rue des Fabriques. 
 
 Messrs. L. J. VOGQK and CO. 
 
 Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTPHKN and CO. 
 
 Mr. R. WEIGAND; Messrs. SCHEFFLKR, SIFG, & CO. 
 
 Messrs. HA3RARD and SON. 
 
 Mr. MAllTIN BECKER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. 
 
 Messrs. .JOLIMAY and CO. ; Mr. Phi:. STRASSE. 
 
 Mr. E. MOLO; Mv. J. V. BUCHLI. 
 
 Messrs. HOFMEISTER, SCHEFFLER, and SIEG. 
 
 Messrs. CHR. EGLIN and MARING, 
 
 Messrs. Rl TSCHARU and BURlvl. 
 
 Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. 
 
 Messrs. J. THOMSON HENDERSON and CO. 
 
 Messrs. ROSE and CO 
 
 Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES. 
 
 Messrs. G. BONO and CO.. 8, Via Agnello. 
 
 Messrs. G UT L K B EN and W E I D E R T. 
 
 Messrs. CEKULLI and CO. ; Mr. G. CI VALLERF. 
 
 Messrs. M. and N. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 11 (sur le Fort.) 
 
 Mr. J. DLTCLOS ASSANDRl. 
 
 Messrs. J. ARTHUR and CO., 10, Rue Castiglione. 
 
 M. HECTOR L'HERBIER, 18, Rue de la Douane. 
 
 Mr. BERGEROr. 
 
 Mr. J. J. SEtDL, Hiberuergasse, No. 1000. 
 
 Mr. J. P. SHEA. 11, Piazza di Spagaa; Mr. A. TO.MBINf. 
 
 Mr. J. A. HOUWENS; Messrs. P. A. VAN ES and CO. 
 
 Mr. C. A. RA r 11. 
 
 Mr. GAETANO PIE TROBONI. 
 
 Mr. Fco TOLOMEl DI F^o 
 
 Mr, ANTON POKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse 2. 
 will also forward goods to C. C. & Co., on receiving instructions to do so. 
 ted alwuj's to give particular directions that their Package s are consigned 
 
 direct to CHAS. CARR & CO, 14, Bishopsgate Street AVithin. 
 
 PRICE LIST OF WINES 
 
 IMPORTED BV 
 
 CHABLES CARK A N r> CO., 
 
 AGENI'S TO GROWERS. Per duzen. 
 
 CLARETS— ^ledoc is.-t. to -'-is. 
 
 St. Estephe. Marg.iu.K, kc 30i-. to SU.s 
 
 St. .Iiiliin, I'^-c 412a-. 
 
 Odier Qualities .... 48s. to ISO.?. 
 
 BURGUNDIES— B'auno 24s. to 30s. 
 
 Vol nay 36s. to 42. «. 
 
 Other Quaiilios 48s. to 84s. 
 
 Cliublis SOS. to 54s. 
 
 21.9. 
 
 30s. 
 
 Hochheim 36s. to 42s. 
 
 Other Qtialitis 48s. to 12Us. 
 
 SPARKLING HOCK and MOSELLE 42s. to 54s. 
 
 CHAMPAGNE 42.S. to 72s. 
 
 SH**:RRIES— Pale, Gold, &c ; , . 36s. to 60s. 
 
 PORT • ^^'' *o "^^s. 
 
 HOCK— Oppenheim 
 Nierstein 
 
 Fine Old Vinta 
 MARSALA . . 
 
 Wines 84s. to 126s, 
 
 , , i . , , 86s. to 304-, 
 
 AND OTHER WINES. 
 
 (llaretB, Burgundies, Sherries, &c„ by the Hogsbcad or HaU'Hogshea4 at refluoed Prlood. 
 
 iktaihi Price rMi may be obta'ne^ of 0, OAHH^.GQh M, Hishopsgalt. Slnd WWm 
 
U MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 ROME. 
 
 J. P. SHEA, 
 
 ENGLISH HOUSE-AGENT, 
 
 FORWAEDING AGENT 
 TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES, 
 
 11, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. 
 
 At this Office persons applying for 
 
 Large or Small Furnished Apartments 
 
 invni-iablv oljtain correct and unbiassed information on all matters connected with 
 
 Lodging-Houses, Boarding-Houses, 
 
 and 
 
 Household Management, 
 
 while 
 
 Low and Fixed Charges 
 
 for practical services offer safe and satisfactory assistance to Proprietor and Tenant, 
 
 as testified by the increasing confidence of English and American Travellers 
 
 since the opening of the establishment in 1852. 
 
 Plans and Lists of Apartments sent by Post 
 
 f to ]x^rsons who wish to secure accommodation, or avoid inconvenience at the 
 approach of Carnival or the Holy Week. 
 
 AS CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENT, 
 
 Mr. Shea clears and warehouses 
 
 Baggage and other effects 
 
 for travellers who, to avoid the expense of quick transit, send their things by sea or 
 
 luggage- train, directed to his care. 
 
 He also superintends the 
 
 Packing of Works of Art and other Property 
 
 intrusted to his care, and the forwarding of the same to England, «S:c. ; and being 
 
 Agent tor iMessrs. Burns and IMcIvers' Italian line of steamers, can offer 
 
 facilities on the freight of packages between Italy and England. 
 
 CORRESPONDENTS- 
 
 LONDOM Messrs. J. & R. M'CRA-CKEX, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.O. 
 
 Messrs. CHAS. CARR & CO,, M, Bisbopsgate Street Within. 
 
 BOULOGNE s. M Mr. BERNARD, 18, Quai des Paquebots. 
 
 PARIS Messrs. L'HP:RBETTK, KANK, & CO., 8, Place de la Bourse. 
 
 MARSEILLES Messrs. GIRAUD FRERP:S, 44, Rue Sainte. 
 
 FLORENCE Messrs. HASKARD & SON. 
 
 NEW YORK Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN, & CO., 72, Broadway. 
 
 l^OSTON Messrs. WELLS, FARGO. & CO. 
 
1871. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 15 
 
 OHXJBB'S LOGICS stncl SAFES, 
 
 Paris Exhibition, 1867, SILVER PRIZE MEDAL. 
 •DubUn International Exhibition, 1865, PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED. 
 
 CHUBB & SON, 
 
 BY APPOINTJIENTS, 
 
 MAKERS TO THE QUEEN, AND TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. 
 pHUBB'S PATENT DETECTOR LOCKS, the most secure from 
 
 \J picklocks and false keys, are strong, simple, and durable, and made of all sizes and for 
 every pui-pose to which a Lock can be applied. 
 
 Trunks, Portmanteaus, Travelling Bags, Dressing Cases, Writing Desks, <fec., fitted with 
 only the usual common and utterly insecure Locks, can have the place of these supplied by 
 Chubb's Patent without alteration or injmy. 
 
 Travellers' Lock- Protectors and Portable Scutchfx)n Locks for securing Doors that 
 may be found fastened only by common Locks, 
 
 CHUBB. & SOX have always in stock a variety of Writing and Despatch Boxes in 
 Morocco or Russia Leather and japanned Tin ; the latter being particularly recommended 
 for lightness, room, durability, and freedom from damage by insects or hot climates. 
 
 Best Black Enamelled Leather Travelling Bags of various sizes, all with 
 Chubb's Patent Locks. Cash, Deed, and Paper Boxes of all dimensions. 
 
 pHUBB'S PATENT SAFES 
 
 \J are constructed in the very best 
 manner, of the strongest wrought iron, 
 fitted with Chubb's Patent Drill-pke- 
 VENTIVE and their Gunpowder-proof 
 Steel-plated Locks, are the most 
 secure from fire and burglary, and form 
 the most complete safeguard tor Books, 
 Papers, Deeds. Jewels, Plate, and other 
 valuable pioperty. 
 
 CHUBB & SON" have also strong 
 wrought-iron Sufes.ivithout fire-resisting 
 lining, but equally secure in all other 
 respects, intended for holding plate where 
 protection from fire is not an olyect, and 
 II affording much more room inside than 
 the Patent Safes. They are recom- 
 mended specially^ ip place^ of.the ordinary wooden cases for plate, which may so easily be 
 broken open. 
 
 BUENOS AYRES GOVERNMENT CERTIFICATE. 
 Translation. 
 We, the undersigned, at the request of Messrs. Jas. C. Thompson & Co., certify that the 
 Iron Safes of Messrs. Chcbb & Son, London, of which these gentleman are Agents, were 
 e-xposed for several hours to the Fire that took place in the offices of the National Govern- 
 ment on the evening of the 26th instant ; that in our presence they were ea>ily opened with 
 their respective keys: that the moneys and important documents they contained were found 
 in perfect order, and that these Safes are now in use iu the National Treasury Office.— Buenos 
 Ayres, 3Ist July, 1867. 
 
 (Signed) J. M. Deago, Treasurer of the National Government. 
 
 Jose Tojias Rojo. 
 Juan M. Alvarez. ± true copy— A. M. Bell. 
 
 Complete Illustrated Pnced Lists of Chubb's Locks, Boxes, Safes, and other Manufactures, 
 
 gratis and post-free. 
 
 CHUBB and SON, Makers to the Bank of England, 
 57, St. Paul's Churchyard, London, E.C. 
 
16 MURRAY'S HANDliOOK ADVERTISER. Mav, 
 
 VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT. 
 
 - ♦ ii 
 
 <:> JL^T^JLIE, JEt &z C O., 
 
 37, Finsbury Square, London, 
 
 (Mr. Olivier established in 1830,) 
 
 COMMISSION MERCHANTS AND GENERAL AGENTS 
 
 For Shipment and Reception of Goods to and from all Parts of the World, 
 and IMPORTERS OF WINES, ^c. 
 
 r\LIVIER & CO. have the honour to inform 
 
 ^ VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT 
 
 that they undertake to receive and pass through tlie Customhouse in London, 
 Liverpool, Southampton, &c., 
 
 WORKS of ART, BAGGAGE, and PROPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION, 
 
 which are attended to on arrival 
 with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, 
 
 under their own personal sujierintendcnce. They beg to call particular attention to 
 
 their Moderate Charges, 
 which have given universal satisfaction. 
 
 Many Travellers having expressed a desire to know in anticipation to what • 
 expenses their Purchases are liable on arrival in England, the following 
 
 Rates of Charges on the Reception of Packages 
 
 may be relied upon, for Landing from the Ship, Clearing, Deliveiy in London, 
 and Agency: — 
 
 On Trunks of Baggage about 9s. each. 
 
 On Ciises of Works of Art, &c., of moderate size and value . about 15s. „ 
 „ ,, „ of larger ,, „ 20s. to 25s. ,, 
 
 On very large Cases of valuable Statuar}-, Pictures, &c., on which an estimate 
 cannot well be given, the charges will depend on the care and trouble recpiired. 
 " When several cases are sent together the charges are less on each case. 
 
 OLIVIER & CO. undertake the 
 FORWARDING OF PACKAGES OF EVERY KIND 
 
 to the Continent, to the care of their Correspondents, where they can remain, if 
 required, until the arrival of the owners. 
 
 Also 
 
 THE EXECUTION OF ORDERS FOR THE PURCHASE OF GOODS 
 
 of all kinds, which, from their long experience as Commission Merchants, they 
 are enabled to buy on the most advantageous teims. 
 Residents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering any^ 
 thing they may recjuire from London. 
 
 N.B.— The keys of locked Packages should always be sent to OLIVIER & Co., 
 
 ns evorything, although free of dutyj must ba examined by the Customs on arrival, 
 
 INSURANCES E??SCTSD, and Ager.oy Busineii of evevy deaoriptiOU 
 
 atteiided tQ.. 
 
18V1. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 17 
 
 & CO.'S principal Coi'rci«pouc1ciit<^ arc — 
 
 Messrs. A. SOUHEUK and CO. 
 , Mr. J. VV. BROWXK. 
 
 Mr. F. VEKELLEN P3ERXAER1. 
 
 Messrs. VLEUGELS and CO. 
 
 Mr. J. J. FREY. 
 
 :Messrs. ANFONIO MAZZETIl and CO. 
 
 Messrs. H. and 0. BEYERMAN and CO., Wine G-.owcrs. 
 
 Messrs. L. I. VOGUE and Co. 
 
 Mr. G. LUYCKX, 24, Rue des Fabriques. 
 
 Mr. L. STEIN, 22, Montagne de la Cour. 
 , :Messrs. L. I. VOGUE and CO. 
 
 Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTPHEN and CO, 
 
 Messrs. G. TILMES and CO. 
 , Messrs. VALSAMACHY and CO., Galata 
 . Messrs. KRAE'ISCHMER and CO. 
 . :\Iessrs. HASKARD and SON, 4, Borgo SS. Apostoli. 
 
 Messrs. ^V. H. WOOD and CO. 
 
 Mr. MARTIN BECKER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. 
 
 Mr, MORITZ B. GOLDSCHMIDT, Ranker. 
 , Messrs. JOLIMAY and CO. 
 . Messrs. G. B. PRATOLONGO and CO. 
 
 Messrs. P. CAUVIN, DIAMANTI, and COSl'A. 
 
 Messrs. JULIUS WUSTENFELD and CO. 
 
 Messrs. CHR. EGLIN and MARING. 
 
 Messrs. RITSCHARD and BURiO. 
 . Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. 
 . Messrs. J. THOMSON, HENDERSON and CO. 
 . Messrs. ROSE & CO. 
 
 Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES, 
 
 Messrs. HORACE BOUCHET and CO, 
 . Messrs. GIO. CURTI & FIG". 
 , Messi-s, GUTLEBEX and WEIDERT. 
 
 f Mr. G. CIVALLERI, 267, Riviera dl Chiaja. 
 • (. Messrs. CEKULLI & CO., 29, Vittoria. [le Port. 
 
 , Messrs. LES FILS DE CH. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 14 (sur 
 . Mr. J. DUCLOS A.SSANDRI. [Martin, 43. 
 
 . Messrs. LANG LOIS FILS FRERES. Rue des Marais St", 
 
 M. HECTOR L'HERBIER, 18, Rue de la Douane. 
 . Mr. BERGEROT. 
 
 . Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hibemergasse, No. 1000. 
 . Mr. J. P. SHEA, 11, Piazza di Spagna. 
 
 Mr. A. TOMBINI. 23, Place St. Louis des Fran(;ais. 
 
 Mr. J. A. HOUWENS ; Messrs. P. A. VAN ES and CO, 
 . Messrs. MARTIN FRERES. 
 
 Mr. CHIABODO PIETRO, Via Dora Grossa, 13. 
 . Mr. HENRY DECOPPET. Mr. F<^^ TOLOMEI Dl F^o 
 
 Mr. ANTON POKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse, 2. 
 
 Any other houses will also forward goods to 0. & C, on receiving instructions 
 to do so. Travellers are requested always to give particular directions that their 
 Packages are consigned direct to OLIVIER & CO,, 37, FINSBURY SQUARE. 
 
 At Aix-la-ChapeJle 
 Alexandria 
 Antioerp . 
 
 Basle . 
 
 Bologna . 
 Boi'deaux 
 Boulogne . 
 Brussels . 
 
 Calais 
 Cologne . 
 
 Constant in opl 
 Dresden . 
 Florence . 
 
 Frankfort 
 
 Geneva . 
 Genoa 
 
 ITamhurg 
 
 Havre 
 
 Interlaclcen 
 
 Leipzig . 
 
 Leghorn , 
 
 Malta 
 
 Marseilles 
 
 Milan . 
 Munich , 
 
 Naples 
 
 Nice . . 
 Ostend 
 Paris . . 
 
 Pan . , 
 Prague . 
 Borne . . 
 
 Rotterdam 
 Trieste 
 Turin 
 Venice 
 Vienna . 
 
 PRICES OF ^^ I N E S I^IPOI^TED BY 
 
 OLIVIER AND CO., 
 
 AGENTS TO GROWERS, 
 
 — o — per doz, duty paid. 
 
 Claret, Shipped by F. Beyerman, Bordeaux 18s., 24s., 30s., 36.?., to 120s, 
 
 Burgundy ,, Dumoulin aine, Savigny-sous-Beaune . 24s., 28s., 36s., to 84s. 
 
 Kock &. Moselle, Jodocius Freres & Co., Coblentz . , 24s., 30s., 36s., to 120s, 
 
 „ Sparkling, „ , . 48s. to 60s. 
 
 Ciiampag-ne 48s. to 72s. 
 
 ISdarsala, in Qr. Casks, from it'll ; Hhds. £21 . , . , 26s. to 30s. 
 
 Sberries, Pale, Gold, or Brown, in Qr. Casks, £15 to jf35, delivered 42s, to 60s. 
 
 Claret, Burgundy, and Hock, in the Wood, at Growers' Prices. 
 
 Detailed Price Lists may be had of 0, & Co„ 37, Finsbury Squa/re. 
 
 Q 
 
18 MUIiRAY.'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mnv, 
 
 ZURICH. 
 
 HOTEL DE L'EPEE AU LAC. 
 
 In the midst of the Town, at the Wein Square on the Lake. High roomed and 
 well aired House. A magnificent View from the Terrace over the Alps and Laki', 
 especially u]-on the Mountain ol" Zurich, and from the Ghicier Glarnish to the 
 Titlis. 
 
 DINNER AT EVERY HOUR. 
 
 OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. 
 
 ANGLO-ITALIAN BANK 
 
 (LIMITED). 
 
 London Oflaee - - 16, Leadenhall Street. 
 
 Florence Branch - - 3, Piazza San GaetaSo. 
 
 Naples Branch - - Piazza del Municipio. 
 
 Genoa Agency - - 10, Piazza Senole Piz. 
 
 This Bank issues Letters of Credit on its Branches and 
 Agencies in Italy, which cash Bank of England and Circular 
 Notes of the principal London Banks. 
 
 Aberdeen Polished Granite Monuments, 
 
 FROM £5. 
 
 n T.icTTEK Ci'TriNi; AcciRATK AXD Beautiful. 
 
 C- |-^ L'rs^ Quality Cranih- and Marbh- Work of nil kinds. 
 
 I I Iron Railings a.icl J'omb Furnishings lifted 
 
 ' complete 
 
 (r-=\ Plans. Prices, and Carria^^e free Terms to all parts 
 
 // \ of the -World, from 
 
 LEGGE, SCULPTOR. 
 
 MAYENCE. 
 
 HOTEL 13'AIVGLETEIMMi:, 
 
 HENRY SPECHT, Wine Merchant and Grower. 
 
 This first-rate and excellent Hotel (combining everv English comfort), situated 
 m front of the Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to tlie Steamboats and close to the 
 Railway Stations. From its Balconies and Kooms are Picturesque Views of the 
 Khnie and^ lAlountains. Galignani, Times, and Illustrated News taken in. The 
 'labJe-d'Hoto is leiiowned for its excellence, and for its Genuine Rhenish Wines 
 and Sparkling Hock, wliidi Mr. Sporht exports to Ensland at Wholesale Prices. 
 
1871. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 19 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 F. GRIYAZ, 
 
 MANUFACTURING JEWELLER, 
 No. 10, GRAND QUAI. 
 
 C^n/.V Proprietor of the celebrated Grotto 
 de Topozes discovered in A^igust, 
 1868, in the Mountains da Gcdan- 
 stock. Canton d' Uri. 
 
 An immense choice of Jewels in the first 
 taste will be found here, and all the 
 Oriental Stones mounted and unmounted. 
 This house was founded in 1837, 
 and is highly recommended by the nu- 
 merous travellers who have visited it. 
 
 GARY'S IMPROVED POCKET 
 TOURISTS Ti^LESCOPi;. 
 
 (.sVe ' Murray's Ilaiidbaolc.') 
 Mandfactukkk of all descripuuiis ul Mathe- 
 matical, 8urve3'int;, ami Optical liistnjnients, 
 for the U8e of Naval and Military Officers, &c. 
 Also tbe new Binocular Reconnoitring Field 
 Glass, in Aluniiniiim of exceeding lightnet-s 
 and durability, so highly spoken of by officers 
 and other gentlemen : from 7?. 7s. ; ordinary 
 metal from 1l. 10s. Gary's improved Achro- 
 matic Microscope, with two seta of choice 
 lenses, capable of defining the severe test 
 objects; from 2?,. ]5s. Travelling Spectacles 
 of all kinds. 
 
 Mathematical and Optical Instrument 
 Maker by special appointment to the War 
 Office, Admiralty, Trinity House, Koya 
 Military College", Sandhurst, Royal Geogra- 
 phical Society, Christ's Hospital, Trinity 
 House, King's College, &c. ; and Optician to 
 the Royal London Ophthalmic Hospital. 
 
 GOULD & POlVrKR, Successors to GARY, 
 181, STRAND, LONDON. 
 
 Established upwards of a Century. 
 
 ASHBY-DE-LA-ZOUCH, LEICESTERSHIRE. 
 
 ROYAlTHOrEL, 
 
 FAMILY, COMMERCIAL, AND POSTING HOUSE. 
 
 E. H. MILLS, Propkietor. 
 
 This first-rate and old-established Family and Commercial Hotel, within tuo 
 minutes' walic of the Kailwny Station, and adjoining the celebrated IVANHOi'J 
 HATHS, will be found replete with every comfort, combined with economy, for 
 tlie reception of Families and Visitors. 
 
 FRANKFORT O. M. 
 
 MR. C.^ITlOHR, 
 
 PROPRIETOR OF 
 
 THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, 
 
 Begs to recommend his House to Kngllsh Travellers. 
 ^PHIS large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate 
 J- superintendence of the Propi-ietor, and newly funrished with every comfort, 
 and a new splendid Dining-room. 
 
 The " Roman Emperor" is often honoured by Royal Families and other high 
 personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel — 
 
 H,M. THE KIXG AND QUEEN OF -WTTRTEMBERG. 
 
 H.M, THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. 
 
 H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WUR'PEMBERa 
 
 H.I.H. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &c. &c. &c. 
 
 Table-d'hote at 1, Ifl. 30kr. Breakfast, ftZkrt 
 
 5, 2tl. Tea, <lZkr. 
 
 Bed Rooms, from Ifl. to 3fl. 
 
 C 2 
 
20 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 Mar, 
 
 PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE, 
 
 W. J. ADAMS, 59, FLEET STEEET, LONDON, E.G. 
 Regulations gratis for obtaining Foreign Office Passports. 
 
 pOUNTRY or LONDON Residents, 
 
 \J by forwarding a Banker's Appliaition, or 
 Certificate of identity, can have a PASSPORT 
 obtained. Country Residents, by this arrangement, 
 are saved the trouble of a personal attendance. 
 
 Fee obtaining Passport, Is. 6d. ; Visas, Is. each. 
 
 Passports carefully Mounted and Cased, and 
 Names lettered thereon in Gold. 
 
 Passport Cases from Is. 6d. to 4s. Gd. each. 
 
 THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. 
 
 BRADSHAW'S BRITISH and CONTINENTAL GUIDES and HANDBOOKS 
 
 to France, Belgium. Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Normandy, Brittany, U'yrol, 
 
 Paris, Turkey, Syria, and Palestine (2 vols). 
 Tourist's Handbook to Great Britain, &c. 
 
 Baedeker's Handbooks, Ball's Alpine Guides, Pack's Pyrenees. 
 Brapshaw's Complete Phrase Books, French, Italian, Spanish, and German. Is. each. 
 Bradshaw's Overland and Through Route Guide to India, China, and Australia, 5s. 
 Bradshaw's Handbooks to Bombay, Madras, and Bensal, 10s. each. 
 
 Kellar's, Leuthold's, and Ziegler's Maps of Switzerland. Mayr's Map of the TtkoL. 
 Knapsacks, Rugs, Waterproof Coats, Door-fasteners. Handbags, Portmanteaus, Straps, Soap, 
 
 Compasses, Drinking Cups, Courier Bags, Glycerine, &c. 
 Hakpkr & ApplI'.ton's Handbook to K\irope and the East. 
 Black's Guides to England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. 
 O'Shea's Spain and Portugal. 
 Phrase Books end Dictionaries. 
 
 Experienced Couriers engaged upon application. 
 
 G E 
 
 EVA 
 
 s. 
 
 F. WAOHTER, Proprietor. 
 
 tu a matchless position, and of European reputation, tliitj 
 large First-class Hotel was entirely re-arranged and freslily 
 decorated in 1870, with the addition also of a new superb 
 *' Salox de Conversatiox." 
 
 Unrivalled for its fine Cellar of Wines, its Dinners, and 
 prompt attendance. 
 
 PENSION FOR THE WINTER MONTHS, 
 at very moderate Prices. 
 
1871. 
 
 MUKRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 21 
 
 Stanford's Foreign Office Passport Agency, 
 
 6 & 7, CHAEING CROSS, LONDON, S.W. 
 
 Passports (which are good for life) 
 mounted on Muslin or Silk, in Roan, 
 Morocco, or Russia Case, with the 
 name of the Owner lettered on the 
 ou'side, thus preventing injury or 
 lojs, as well as lessening the delay in 
 examination abroad. 
 
 For further particulars, including 
 the Forms of Application, Cost of 
 Passport, Visas, &c., see Stanford's 
 Passport Circular, which will 
 be forwarded per post on receipt of 
 One Stamp. 
 Gratis on applRMiion, or free per post for One Stamp, 
 
 STANFORD'S TOURIST'S CATALOGUE, 
 
 Containing Title, Price, &c., of the Best Guide Books, Maps, Conversation Books, Diction- 
 aries, &c., published in the United Kingdom, the Continent, and America, and kept con» 
 stantly in stock by Edwakd Stanford. 
 
 London: EDWARD STANFORD, 6 & 7, Chahing Cross, S.W., 
 Agent for the Sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geological Survey Maps, and Admiralty Charts. 
 
 GENEVE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEiTbEAU RIVAGE. 
 
 THIS tii\st-rate, splendid Hotel has the advaniage of being the most pleasantly 
 situated in Geneve, on the Quai du Mont Blanc, near the English Church, in 
 i'ront of the Steamboat Landing, and very near the Railway Station. From the 
 Garden and two delightful Terraces, and from each Avindow of the Hotel, Mont 
 Blanc, the Lake, and the Town, can be seen in their fullest extent, Cliarges moderate. 
 Table-d'Hote three times a day. Is the resort of the first English and American 
 Families. ' MAYER & KUNZ, Proprietors. 
 
 First-rote House, containing about one hundred large Apartments and Saloon, 
 for Families, having been lately enlarged. 
 
 ENGLISH SPOKEN' AXD ENGLISH NEWSPAPERS KEPT. 
 
 V E V E Y. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE VEVEY, 
 
 Opened February 1868. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOUSE in every rpspect. Splendid situation in 
 the midst of a large Park, on the Lake shoie. Magnificent view in all 
 directions. Baths in the Hotel. Lift. Telegraphic Bureau, liandino-- 
 place for the Lake Steamers (Grand Hotel). Omnibus at the Bailway 
 fetation. Board during the Winter Season. 
 
 ALFRED HIRSCHY. ' 
 
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 THE CONTINENT. 
 
 COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF 
 DIFFERENT NATIONS. 
 
 Society of Couriers and Travelling 
 
 Established 16 Yeaes. 
 
 Patronised hy the Eoyal Family, E"obility, and G-entry. 
 
 12, BURY STEEET, ST. JAMES'S, 
 
 THIS Society is composed of Members of different Nations, 
 all of well-establislied rcpntation, great experience, efficiency, 
 and respectability. 
 
 Coniiers snitable for any conntry can be obtained. 
 
 Italians, Germans, Swiss, French, and Men of other 
 Nations, comjiose this Society ; some of whom, besides the 
 nsually requi-red languages, Bj)eah; Spanish, Eussian, Swedish, 
 Turkish, and Arabic, — in fact, every Continental and European 
 language. 
 
 Travellers for any jDart can immediately meet with 
 Couriers and Travelling Servants on application to the 
 Secretarv. 
 
 COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF DIFFERENT NATIONS, 
 12, B'jUV STKLET, ST. JAMLS'S. 
 
1871. MUKKAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23 
 
 BONN ON THE RHINE. 
 
 MR. SCHMITZ, 
 
 PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL, 
 
 Begs leave to recommeud his Hotel to English Travellers. The apart- 
 ments are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms are 
 carpeted ; and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine- 
 cellar, is well provided. Mr. SCHMITZ begs to add that at no first- 
 rate Hotel on the Rhine will be found more moderate charges and more 
 cleanliness. 
 
 The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following 
 Members of the English Royal Family : — 
 
 / H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by General Sir W. Codrington, 
 1857. Oct. 16 < Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. Akmstkong, Rev. F. C. 
 
 V Tarver, Mr. GiBBS, etc. 
 ,y,^ . „„ i H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite paying a visit at the Golden 
 
 '• ^' " I Star Hotel to His Majesty the iiing of the Belgians. 
 1857. Aug. 8 H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite. 
 1857 Julv 29 i ^* ■^''- ^- *'^® Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mart of Cambridge, 
 
 ^ I accompanied by the Baron Knesebeok aud Suite. 
 IS";-? Till 9Q i ^' ^- ^- ^^® Prince of Wales paynig a visit at the Golden Star Hotel to 
 1SS7. J uiy .:» I r^,^ ^ jj_ ^jjg Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Maky of Cambridge. 
 
 I H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by the Right Honourable C. 
 1857. July 15 s Grey, General Major, Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. 
 
 *• Armstrong, Rev, F. C. Tarver, Mr, Gibbs, etc. 
 .„,„ », i H. R. H. Prince Alfred of Great Britain, accompanied by Lieutenant- 
 
 °* • (. General Sir Frederick Stovin and Lieutenant Cowell. 
 
 !H, M. Adelaide, Queen Dowager of Great Britain, accompanied by 
 His Highness Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, Lord and Lady Bar- 
 RiNGTON, Sir David Davies, M,D,, Rev. J. R, Wood, M.A., Captain 
 Taylor, &c. &c., honoured the above establishment with a Threr 
 Days' Visit. 
 1818. May. . H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge and Suite. 
 
 1825. March f H. R. H, the Duke and Duchess of Clarence (King William IV, and 
 and Sept. . X Queen Adelaide) and Suite. 
 
 T 1 j H. M. Queen Adelaide, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of Eruol, 
 
 1834. Juiy. . -^ Earl and Countess of Denbigh, Earl and Countess Howe, &c. 
 
 1836. Aug. , H. R. H, the Duchess of Gloucester and Suite. 
 
 1837. July. . H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 
 1839. Nov, . H. R. H. the Prince George of Cambridge and Suite. 
 
 ^ ( H. R. H. Prince Albert of Saxe Cobukg Gotha, accompanied by Prince 
 
 JNov. .^ Ernest of Saxe Coburg Gotha, and their Suite. 
 
 C H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge, accompanied by the Princess Augusta 
 
 ^^'^^ I of Cambridge, and their Suite. 
 
 5 H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S, H, the 
 
 ^^■*^ X Prince of Lkiningen. 
 
 Ig41 H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 
 
 .... H. R. H. Princess Carolina of Cambridge. 
 
 1844. ... H. P».. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 
 ... H. R. H. Princess Mary of Cambridge. 
 
 J 5 H. R. H. the Duchesa of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the 
 
 1845. June .^ Priuce of Leiningen. 
 
 ,.,.- r„i„ iT. R. H. the Duke and Duchees of Cambridge, with their Family and 
 184 (. July I s^^jtg_ 
 
34 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 P. EOMANELLI, 
 
 J. FIELD, 
 
 House and Estate Agent, 
 Auctioneer, &e., 
 
 THE LODGE, Ko. 3, GARY PARADE. 
 
 Sculptor, Pupil of. and Successor to, the late TORQUAY. 
 
 Professor Bartolini, has opened a Gallery, I ^ 
 
 T ,. n • • J' ' -KT » I The Nobility, Gentry, and Families gene- 
 
 Lung' Arno GmCCiardmi, JNO. 7. rally, requiring Furnished or Unfurnished 
 
 I'he intelligent amateur ^iU find there a ^^^idences in Torquay or its neighbourhood. 
 
 Collection of Statues, both originals and copies. ^?ff »^'« ^^'^'•J', , attontion and information. 
 
 .. ,. „ ^'■'^'^ • o ^ ' either personally or by lettej-, on applicutiou 
 
 artistically executed. ^ ; ^^ j^,j._ j p ^^,^^^^ ^.^^^^^ ^.^^ .^ (..specially 
 
 Principal Works: — The Son of William I devoted to House Agency, Sales liy Auction, 
 Tell; the Young Franklin ; the Young Wash- | &c., &:c. 
 
 ington; the Young Whittington; the Young j All letters of enquiry must please coutair. 
 Napoleon ; the Young Moses ; Garibaldi. ] a postage stamp. 
 
 GENEVA MUSICAL BOXES. 
 
 B. A. BREMOND, MANUFACTURER. 
 
 Prize Medal, Paris Exhibition, 1867. 
 
 NyVHOLESALE. RETAIL. EXPORTATION, 
 7, EUU PRADIEB, GENEVA, SWITZERLAND. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 HOTEL I>E J^j-\. OOXJI^OTVWEo 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. F. BAUR. 
 ^PHIS ESTABLISHMENT, of tlie first Eank, completely 
 
 A newly furnished throughout, situated iu front of the magnificent Pont <!u 
 Mont Blanc, the National Monument, the Steam-boat lauding-, and the Knglisli 
 Garden, enjoys a most extended view of Lac Lemau and Mont Blanc, 
 
 Every attention paid to the comfort and wishes of Families and Gentlemen. 
 Active attendance, good cuisine and cellar. English and Ameriatn newspajiers. 
 Tables-d'Hote 3 times a day. Omnibus from the Hotel to every Train. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 BHIZZI ANr> NICCOLAI'S 
 
 PIANOFORTES, OF THE BEST MAKERS, 
 
 FOR SALE AXD OX HIRE. 
 
 GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND-INSTRUMENTS. 
 Ztalian and Foreign ]M[usic. 
 
 Musical Lending Lil/rary. 
 PIAZZA MADONNA. I BRANCH HOUSK (Music Depot) 
 
 PALAZZO ALDOBRANDINI. j 13, VIA CERRETANI. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25 
 
 MUDIES SELECT LIBRARY. 
 
 BOOKS FOR ALL READERS. 
 
 FIRST-GLASS SUBSCRiPTION 
 
 FOR A CONSTANT SUCCESSION OF THE NEWEST BOOKS, 
 
 One GrinLineft per* .A-Xninm, 
 
 COMMENCING AT ANY DATE. 
 BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TEHMS. 
 
 CHEAP BOOKS.— NOTICE. 
 
 TWENTY THOUSAND VOLUMES OF 
 
 BOOKS IN ORNAMENTAL BINDING FOR PRESENTS. 
 
 COXSISTING CHIEFLY OF 
 
 WORKS OF THE BEST AUTHORS, 
 
 AND MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED THOUSAND VOLUMES 
 
 of Surplus Copies of other Popular Books of the Past Season, 
 
 ARE NOW ON SALE AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES. 
 
 Catalogues postage free on Application. 
 
 MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY, New Oxford Street, London. 
 CITY OFFICE— 4, King Street, Cheapside. 
 
 ANTWERP 
 
 HOTEL ST. 
 
 PLACE VERTE, 
 OPPOSITE THE CATHEDEAL. 
 
 'pHIS Excellent first-class Hotel, which enjoys the 
 well-merited favour of Families and Tourists, lias been 
 repurchased by its old and well-known Proprietor, Mr. Schmitt- 
 Spaenhoyen; who, with his Partner, will do everything in 
 their power to render the visit of all persons who may honour 
 them with their patronage as agreeable and comfortable as 
 possible. Bailis in (lie Hotel. 
 
26 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 4^ ,^ 
 
 By Appointment to H. R. H. ^^^^ The Prince of Wales. 
 
 37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 
 
 New Illustrated Catalogues of Registered Articles for 1871 
 
 Post Free. 
 
 .£^/ 
 
 ALl.£f)5 
 PATCHT 
 
 ALLEN'S PATENT ALLEN'S PATENT ALLEN'S PATENT 
 
 BAG. DESPATCH-BOX DESK. Quadruple Portmanteau, 
 
 ALLEN'S 
 SOLID LEATHER 
 DRESSING-CASE. 
 
 ALLEN'S EXPANDING 
 PORTMANTEAU. 
 
 ALLEN'S 10 GUINEA 
 SILVER DRESSING BAG 
 
 /-% 
 
 E?^ 
 
 ALLEN'S NEW 
 DRESSING BAG. 
 
 ALLEN'S SOLID 
 
 MAHOGANY 
 DRESSING-CASE. 
 
 LADY'S 
 
 WARDROBE 
 
 PORTMANTEAU. 
 
 Allen's Barrack Furniture Catalogue, for 
 Officers joining^ Post Free. 
 
 PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED 
 
 FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISE K, 27 
 
 IRELAND. 
 
 ATVTR^IlVr AIMVIS HOTEL,, 
 
 PORTRUSH. 
 
 THIS Hotel is beautifully situated, having an uninterrupted 
 view of the Atlantic Ocean, the Giant's Cal'sewat, the SKERKrES, and Lough Fovlf, 
 
 It contains upwards of 100 Apartments, 
 
 Principallj' facing; the Sea. 
 A NOBLE COFFEE-ROOM, 
 
 with Drawing-Room attached, equally available for Ladies and Gentlemen. 
 
 Table -d'Hote daily during the Season. 
 
 Cuisine and Wines First-Class. Terms moderate. French spoken. 
 
 ISilliard and ^uioki»«; Kooui!^. 
 
 THE SEA BATHS, 
 
 Rv^cently rebuilt on the Hotel Grounds, by Mr. Brown, will be found to contain every 
 modern improvement. Separate Apartments for Ladies and Gentlemen. Hot, Cold, Shower, 
 and Douche Baths. The Superintendents in each Department being people of experience, 
 visitors to the Baths may depend on every attention. 
 
 Extensive Posting and Livery Establishment in connection with the Hotel. 
 A Vehicle to the Giant's Ciiuseway and back daily during the Season. 
 Visitors to tlie FTotd are respectfully requested to be particular in inquiring for the ANTRIM 
 ARMS HOTEL Omnibus. It attends all Steamers and Trains, for the conveyance of 
 Passengers to the Hotel free. 
 
 J. BROWN, Proprietor. 
 
 Portrush is tlte nearest Railvjay Station to the Giant's Causeway. 
 
 London and South-Western Railway, 
 
 LONDON STATION, WATERLOO BBIDGE. 
 The Cheap and Picturesque Koute to 
 
 PARIS, HAVRE, ROUEN, HONFLEUR, AND CAEN, 
 
 Via. SO UTHAMP TON and HA VEE. 
 
 Every Monday, AVednesday, and Friday, the last Train from London at 9 p.m. for the 
 
 Southampton Doclcs, aloncjside the Steamer. 
 
 Fares throughout (London and Paris)— Fibst Class, 30/0; Second Class, 22/0. 
 
 Return Tickets (available for one month)— First Class, SO/ ; Second Class, 36/. 
 
 JERSEY, GUERNSEyTaND ST. MALO. 
 
 DAILY MAIL SERVICE, 
 
 Vid SOUTHAMPTON— 'Tlie favourite Route. 
 
 Fares throughout (London and Jersey or Guernsey)— 33/0 First ; 23/0 Second Class. 
 
 Every Weekday. 
 
 Return Tickets (available for One .Month)— 48/ O First ; or 38/0 Second Class. 
 
 The Last Train from Lomlnn in time for tlie Steamers leaves at 9 p.m. (except on Saturdays , 
 
 on which day the Last Train is at 5.lft 2^m., for Jersey ordy)foi- the Souttiampton Docks, 
 
 alongside the Steamer. ' 
 
 DIRECT S1^:RV1CE TO ST. MALO. 
 
 Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday according to Tide. 
 
 DIRKGT SIi:RV1CK TO CHt:RBOaRG. 
 
 Every Monday and Thursday, leaving Waterloo Station at 8'10 a.m. 
 
 For further information apply to Mr. l)e Vonlle, 3, Place Vendome, Paris. — Mr. Langstaff, 
 
 47, Grand i.inai, Havre. — Mr. Enault, Honfleur — Mr. E. D. Le Couteur, Jersey. — Mr. 
 
 Spencer, Guem-iey. Captain Gaudin, St. Malo. — Messrs, Mahieu, Cherbourg.- Or to Mr. 
 
 E. K. Corlce, Steam Packet Superintendent, Southampton, 
 
28 MUKRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 HOTEL BELLEVUE, DRESDEN. 
 
 Kept by Mr. EMIL KAYSEE. 
 
 npHIS fine large Establishment, situated on the banks of the Elbe, between the 
 -*- two beautiful bridges, facing the Theatre, Museum, and Catholic Cathedral, 
 adjoining the Briihl's Terrace, and opposite the Royal Palace and Green Vaults, 
 contains One Hundred Front Rooms, These apartments combine elegance and 
 comfort, and most of them fronting either the Theatre Square, or public walks 
 and gardens of the Hotel, and command fine views of the River, Bridges, and 
 distant Mountains. The Gardens of the Hotel afford its guests an agreeable and 
 private Promenade. Table d'Hote at one and five o'clock. Private Dinners at any 
 hour. To families or single persons desirous of taking apartments for the winter, 
 very advantageous arrangements will be offered, and every effort made to render 
 their residence in the Hotel pleasant and comfortable. Carriages, Baths, Riding. 
 Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Ladies' Parlour. 
 
 GENEVE, GRAND QUAI 26. 
 
 REYN^UD & GL^TOXJ, 
 
 JlTamifncturcrs of Matches m\'h Itb^Irg. 
 
 CHRONOMETERS and WATCHES with Complex Movements. 
 
 Great Choice of Jewelry in entirely New Designs. 
 
 3 MEDALS IN 1867. 
 
 HOUSE AT NICE, 15, QUAI MASSINA. 
 
 Corresiiondents at I^OBiTIJOX, PAMIS, and BfElV XOKK. 
 
 Emrijtlimg sold at Blanufadureis' Prices. 
 
 PURE AERATED WATERS. 
 
 ELLIS'S 
 
 RUTHIN WATERS, 
 
 Soda, Potass, Seltzer, Lemonade, 
 Lithia, and for GOUT, Lithia 
 
 and Potass. 
 
 CORKS BRANDED " R- ELTJS & SON", RUTHIN," and every label bears their trade 
 mark. Sold everywhere, and \Vholfci^ale by R. Ellis & Son, Ruthin, North Wales, 
 
 London Agents: W. Best & Sons, Henrietta St., Cavendish Square. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 2ii 
 
 THE SWISS AND THE UNITED 
 
 COURIERS' SOCIETY, 
 
 Amalgamated, and Megistered according to Act of Parliament 
 
 as the 
 
 SWISS AND UNITED COURIERS' SOCIETY. 
 
 Which is composed of men of various nations, all of whom 
 possess the highest testimonials, and are recommended to 
 families who, on their travels, desire to rid themselves of the 
 annoyances and encumbrances attending a tonr in foreign lands, 
 and thus " save time, temper, and money." 
 
 No one is admitted as a Member in the above Society unless 
 he is of the strictest integrity, and possesses all the necessary 
 i][ualiiications for a competent Courier. 
 
 For EKaAGEMENTS, 
 
 Or any Information respecting Travelling on the Continent, 
 
 APPLY TO THE SECRETARY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Swiss and United Couriers' Society, 
 
 58, MOUNT STREET, 
 aROSYENOR SQUARE, W., LONDON. 
 
:iO Murray's; handbook advertisei:. Mar, 
 
 BERNE (Switzerland.) 
 
 MUSICAL BOXES, 
 
 WOOD CARVINGS, SCULPTURES, &c., &C„ 
 
 OF 
 
 J. H. H E L L E P^, 
 
 AT BERNE. 
 
 Manufacture unattained by any other House, 
 BOLOGNA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL D'lTALIE. 
 
 rpHIS First-class Establishment, newly re-fitted np, enjoys 
 JL the most central situation in the town, and is close to all 
 the most interesting Public Buildings. 
 
 LARGE AND SMALL WELL-PTJENISHED APARTMENTS 
 
 AND ROOMS. 
 
 "Well siippHed Reading-room. Sitting-room with Piano. 
 
 ENGLISH and TRENCH NEWSPAPERS. TABLE D'HOTE, &c. 
 
 All the Attendants speak English, French, &c. 
 
 BILLIARDS. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEKTtSEjR. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA METROPOLE, 
 
 Directed by Mr. CHAKLES ALDIKGER, formerly the well-known 
 
 Proprietor of the Hotel de la Couronne, and now the 
 
 Proprietor of the Hotel de la Metropole. 
 
 '^pHlS large aud excellent Establishment, situated in the most favourable quarter oi 
 X the town, facing the Pont du Mont Blanc, with the English Garden in front, 
 which is well provided with flowers and shrubs, and shady seats, and goes down 
 ro the edge of the lake. 
 
 From the rooms in front there is a very fine A'iew of the lake, and from those at 
 the back the snow-capped summit of Mont Blanc is seen in the distance ; and 
 from an Observatory at the top of the house, of very easy access, both can be seen, 
 and a very extended view of the surrounding country. 
 
 It contains 200 most elegantly furnished Bed and Sitting Rooms in eveiy 
 variety, and the Proprietor himself superintends all the arrangements. 
 
 A Reading Room, with all English, American, French, and German newspapers, 
 aud a spacious Coffee and Smoking Room are in the Hotel ; in short, every comfort 
 Visitors can expect in a first-class Hotel is at their disposition. 
 
 The House, by its good ventilation, is exceedingly cool in summer ; and in 
 winter is heated by large stoves. Charges are very moderate, and pension during 
 the winter. Table-d'hOteS times a day. Omnibus from the Hotel 3 times a day. 
 
 Private Carriages and Cabs always ready. 
 
 g"e1m e"vX 
 
 POUZET, OPTICIEN, 
 
 MANUFACTVBIJB, 
 H, 1? XT E 13 T^ 3i: O TS T 13 L ^^ IV O. 
 
 Optical and Mathematical Instruments, particularly Telescopes, 
 Opera Glasses, Barometers and Thermometers for Travelling, 
 Glasses for Lunettes in Eock Crystal, Stereoscopes and Stereo- 
 scopic Views on Glass. 
 A Complete Collection of Swiss and Italian Views. 
 
 HOTEL OESTERREICHISCHER HOF, 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 The undermentioned respectfully begs to recommend to the Nobility and flie 
 travelling Public in general his spacious first-claf^s Hotel. The same is most 
 advantageously situated in the centre of the city, near St. Stephen's Church ; 
 it contains liJo rooms and saloons with balconies, and is fitted up with all modern 
 comfort and luxury. Best l'"rench cooking and first-rate wines (original) from all 
 countries. Telegraph and Post Offices, baths and cai-riages. The attendance is 
 most strictly contH'il^l. 
 
 Hespectf'illv, 
 
 JOH. HKVnNI'P, PcoPKiT-TOR. 
 
32 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. 
 
 Travellers may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in 
 England at the same prices at which they are pubUshed in Germany or Fi-ance. 
 
 WILLIAMS & NORGATE 
 
 have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock :— 
 
 1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE. 10. NATURAL HISTORY 
 
 2. THEOLOGICAL C ATA- P^"^^^?^^^/ .^^H' .?'" 
 
 T QQ_-rj-rp tany, Geology, Chemistry, Jilatne- 
 
 m titles &c 
 
 3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. n. MEDICAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen- 
 _ _ „ dent Sciences. 
 
 5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC jo. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele- 
 
 CATALOGUE. mentary Books, Maps, &c. 
 
 6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. 13. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU- 
 
 7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. LARS. New Books, and New 
 
 Purchases. 
 
 8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. 14 SCIENTIFIC- BOOK CIRCU- 
 
 9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art,Archi- LARS. New Books and Recent 
 
 tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books. Purchases. 
 
 ANY CATAIiOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOR OXE STAIVIP. 
 
 WILLIAMS & TTORGATE, Importers of Foreign Books, 
 
 14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 
 20, South Frederick Street, Edinburgh. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 G-rand Hotel and Pension Belle Vue, 
 
 (^AlUe de LicJitentlial, close to the English Church), 
 
 Splendid situation, surrounded by large Pleasure Grounds. This 
 Establishment is fitted up with every comfort and luxury. Eestaurant 
 Table d'hote at 1 and 6 o'clock. Eeadiug Eoom. Carriage at the Hotel. 
 Stabling and Coach-house. 
 
 C. SILBEREAD, Peopeietor. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 THE EMPEESS ELISABETH HOTEL 
 
 {KAISERIN ELISABETB). 
 JOHANN HEUGL, Proprietoe. 
 
 This Hotel is situated in the centre of the Austrian capital, near St. Stephen's 
 Square, and much frequented by English and American families for many years 
 past ; has been entirely and thoroughly repaired, and all its apartments newly and 
 elegantly furnished by its new Proprietor. Handsome Dining-rooms and Dining- 
 hall, with Garden, Reading and Smoking-rooms, have been added. ^ English, 
 American, and French Papers on file. Private Dinners a la carte at all hours of 
 the day. English \Yaiters and Commissioners in attendance. Charges moderate. 
 Cuisine superior. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 
 
 NEUCHATEL, SUISSE. ^ 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU MONT BLANC, 
 
 KEPT BY . 
 
 Messrs. BAUMERT and KOSER.^ 
 '"THIS splendid Establishment, the largest, most important, au<l 
 
 -L newest in Neuchatel, enjoys a fine view of the Lake and the Mountains, and 
 is surrounded by a garden. It contains a magnificent Salle a Manger, Restaurant, 
 Billiard and Smoking Room, a beautifully decorated Conversation and Reading 
 Room, supplied with the best Newspapers. Baths at the Hotel. 
 
 The Landlords, who have been for many years at the bead of several of the 
 best Continental Hotels, such as Bauer au Sac, Zurich ; Grand Hotel, Vevey ; Grand 
 Hotel, Nice, will spare no pains to make the Visitors as comlbrtable as possible. 
 
 VEVEY. 
 
 HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. 
 
 "PIRST-CLASS HOUSE, newly Re-organizcd, situated on 
 the banks of the Lake of Geneva, in front of the new Steam- 
 boat Landing-place. 
 
 Table d'Hote. Restaurant a la Carto. Board during the 
 Winter. Bath at the Hotel. Omnibus of the Hotel at the 
 Railway Station. ^, ^^^^j._ 
 
 VEVEY. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU LAC. 
 
 EDOUARD DELAJOUX, Proprietor. 
 
 piRST-CLASS HOTEL, entirely new, close to the Lake, 
 and splendid view, 
 
 SPLENDID SALON and DINING BOOM. 
 
 Clone to the Sff'am-ooaf Landrnq. 
 
34 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 HOTEL VICTORIA, 
 
 RUE DE MONT BLANC. 
 
 Near the Englisli Church, the Railu:ay Stiition, and the Steam-boat Landings. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 MALSCH BERTHOUD, Proprietor. 
 
 Salon Smoking Room, and Batlis, in the Hotel. 
 
 G ENEVA. 
 
 A MOUNTAIN RESIDENCE, MONT SALEVE, 
 
 One and a-half hour from Geneve, 3300 ft. above the level of the sea. 
 
 MOUNETIEU 
 
 HOTEL DE LA RECONNAISSANCE, 
 
 Kept by PERREAED-FAUEAX. 
 
 OMNIBUSES TO GENEVE TWICE A DAY. 
 
 LAUSANNE. 
 
 Mr. EITTEE, Proprietor. 
 
 ■piRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in tlie finest part of tlie 
 Town, is in every respect very highly recommc;ided. Splendid View over 
 the Lake in all its extent. 
 
 Large Terrace and Garden attached to the Hotel. 
 
 PENSION DURING THE WINTER. 
 
 LAUSANNE. 
 
 HOTEL RICHE-MOXT, 
 
 Kept by FEITZ EITTEE. 
 'THIS Hotel is of the first order, worthy of the highest recoin- 
 
 -■- mendations, and in a situation of surjjassing btiiuly. It is surrounded by 
 Gardens and Promenades, and offers to Travellers a highly desirable place of 
 I'esidence, or of temporary sojourn. 
 
1871, MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. S5 
 
 Important to the Travelling Public. 
 PARCELS TO AND FROM THE CONTINENT. 
 
 THE CONTINENTAL 
 
 DAILY PARCELS 
 
 (ESTABLISHED 1849), 
 
 SOLE Agency for England of the Belgian Government Hail- 
 way and Noith German Postal Coiiiederatiou, and Correspondent of ihe 
 Xoithern of France Railway, conveys by Wail Steam Packets^, Kveiy Kight 
 (Sunday excepted), via Dover, Calais, and Ostend, and rapidly by Kail and Post 
 to destination, Parcels and Packages of all kinds, between England and all parts 
 of the Continent, at Thiongh Rates which are very moderate, and include all 
 charges, except Duties and Entries. 
 
 Parcels should he hooked as follows : — 
 
 HOME WARD. -From the Continent. 
 In all Germany. At any Post-office of tiie North Geiman Postal Confedcratioi;, 
 
 or of the Countries in connection therewith, viz., Austria, Italy, Switzei- 
 
 land, Russia, Denmark, I've. 
 Belgium. At any of the State Railway Stations, at the Office of the Agent in 
 
 Brussels, A. Ceooy, 90 bis, Montague de la Cour ; or they can be 
 
 sent direct to Mr. De Ridder, 54, Rue St. Joseph, Oateud. 
 Holland. In the principal towns, Van Gend and Loos. 
 France. Paris, G. PiirrcnAitu, 4, Rue Rossini. To wliose care also, parcelri 
 
 for conveyance to England can be despatched iiom towns beyond 
 
 Paris, with advice by Post. 
 
 OUTNA/ARD.— To the Continent. 
 In London. At Chief Office, 5o, Graceciiurch Street, City (D. X. BiiiDGE, 
 Manager, to whom all communications should be addressed), or at the 
 Universal Off.ce, 34, l.'egcnt Ciicus, 
 In Country Towns. At the Agency in Liverpool, Manchester, Sheffield, Hull, 
 Leeds, Glasgow, Dublin, Bradford, Xottingham, Southampton, Dovej-, 
 and Folkestone, as stated in Books of Rates, which can be had gratis 
 on application to Chief Office. 
 
 In other Towns, where no Agent is appointed, parcels should bo 
 
 sent under cover by Railway, to D. N. Bridge, at above address^ 
 
 Avith advice of contents, value, instructions for Insurance, .ic, by Post^ 
 
 N.B.^— Persons wishing to send or to obtain goods of any kind from Belgium, 
 
 can do so through this Express, "Centre Rembouisement," i.e., Payment of the 
 
 Amount of Invoice on delivery of the Parcel. 
 
 Lo2hDOn: Chief Office, 53, Geacechurch Street, 
 May, 1871. 
 
 D 2 
 
36 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 GENEVA 
 
 PENSION FLAGELL, GRAND QUAI. 
 
 piRST-CLASS PENSION, near the Hotel de la Metropolc, 
 
 A facing tlie English Garden and the Lake of Geneva. Sixty Bed Rooms and 
 10 Salons. First-rate Cuisine. Pension, according to the rcoms and the time ot 
 the year. 
 
 Strangers are received for one or hco days. 
 LUCHON (BAGNERES DE), PYRENEES. 
 
 Grand Hotel Bonne-Maison et de Londres, 
 
 Mr. YIDAL, Jun., Proprietor. 
 
 SITUATED opposite the Theiinal Establishment or Bath-rooms. This favourite 
 and first-rate Hotel affords extensive accommodation of the best description 
 for a large number of visitors. It is delightfully situated, and will be found most 
 comfortable for Families or Gentlemen. 
 
 BOLOGNA. 
 
 Mr. W. WELLEl^, PuopiiiKTOK. 
 
 HE liigli reputation vvliicli tliis Hotel enjoys among thtj 
 travelling public, and more especially English and American 
 I'amilies, is the strongest assurance of its superior arrangement 
 and comfort. 
 
 Piooms from '2h francs up\vards. 
 
 Table d'Hote, 4 francs. 
 
 Reading Ecom, Smokiug Eooni. 
 
 Billiard Room and elegant Dining Koam. 
 
 Private Carriages to be obtained from the Hoteli 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 V I O T O R^ I ^ MOTEL. 
 
 Proprietor, BIr. FRANZ GROSHOLZ. 
 
 THIS is one of the finest built and best furnished First-class 
 Hotels, situated on the new Promenade, near the Kursaal and Theatre ; it 
 commands the most charming views in Baden. It is reputed to te one of the best 
 Hotels in Germany. The Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance 
 and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Journals. 
 
 R I S T O L. 
 
 ROYAL HOTEL, COLLEGE GREEN. 
 
 FIEST- CLASS. Central, and j)leasantly situated. Very- 
 spacious Cotl'ee, Dining, Reading, Smokuig, and Billiard Rooms. Private 
 Apartments en suite. One Hundred and Twenty Bed-rooms. Steam Lift and 
 Laundry. Hot and Cold Baths. Telegraph Office and ro>t-office in the Hotel. 
 Fixed Charges. All Omrhbuses pass the door. Night Porter kept. 
 
 W. SW ANSON", Manag-er. 
 
 STRESA. (Lake Maggiore.) 
 
 (^The most beautiful Summer Residence.^ 
 
 HOTEL ET PENSION DES ILES BORROIVIEES, 
 
 A FIRST-CLASS Hotel, situated on the most charming point 
 of the borders of the Lake. From its magniticent position, shaded from the 
 sun during the greater part of the day, it enjoys a very mild temperature in all 
 seasons, and freshness even during tlie great heats of summer. A large Garden 
 and Baths. Bureau of the Swiss Post Office and Telegraph Oiiice in the Hotel. 
 The EngUsh Church is held in the Hotel. 
 
 LAKE OF COMO. (BELLAGIO.) 
 
 HOTEL AND PENSION DE FLORENCE. 
 
 Kept by L. GRAMMATICA. Opposite the Landing-place of the Steam-boats. 
 
 Tl/ITH a Fine View of the Lake. Sitting-rooms and Bed- 
 
 * » rooms newly and elegantly furnished. Good Cooking, choice Wines, moderate 
 Prices, punctual Attendance. — Pension, price from 4 to 8 fi ancs a day. 
 
 BELLAGIO, LAKE OF COMO. 
 
 ANCIEN HOTEL ET PENSION GENAZZINI. 
 
 Kept by tbe Proprietor, M. GANDOLA. 
 
 THIS Hotel is placed in the most charming position on the 
 Shores of tbe Lake, close to the Villas Serbeilonl, Melzi and Carlof m. Thr-rc Im pvpvy 
 df'sirabic comfort at moderate prices. — FngHsh, Fr:ticli, and CUrrriaii ^^MMMi.— -l-'oivigi! 
 >«'e\\>pap:r9; l^cading r.ycm atid liatLi?, 
 
']S MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 COPENHAGEN. 
 
 //. C. GILDSIG, Proprietor, 
 
 THIS First-class Family Hotel, situated opposite the Royal 
 Palace, and within two minutes' wallc of the Exchany;e, is })atroaiz':^fl bv the 
 liigliest c]a«s of English and American travellers, on account of its central position 
 for either business or ))leasure. The Rooms are li2;ht and airv, and the cooking 
 particularly adapted to English taste. Table d'Hote at three o'clock, 2.9, oc/. 
 Rooms from 2s. 3c?. and upwards. English, French, and German spoken. London 
 Times and other papers taken in, 
 
 CHRISTIAHIA. (Norway.) 
 
 THIS beautifully situated Hotel is well known by the 
 JCnglish Nobility for its Cleanliness, Good Attendance, and Modei-ate 
 Prices. 
 
 CHR. ATJG. SMITH, Proprietor, 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. 
 
 ?U ^Ftial Sipnointment fa ^^^ pSJ. i\t |]riucc qI ^ylc?, 
 nub 5*1.1. iht ^^^ libcMb flf C^cfnut. 
 
 DAYID ROBERTSON &'C0., 
 
 English Booksellers, Stationers, Photograph Vendors, 
 and General Commission Agents, 
 
 10, Grand Square, Alexandria, and The Ezbekieh, Cairo, 
 
 A Hegister of English and American Travellers is Icept at tlie 
 
 above EstahlisJinwnt, and Visitors will receive any assistance 
 
 or information they may require. 
 
 English and Indian Newspapers by every Mail. 
 
 TAUCHNITZ EDITIONS. 
 Passages secured. Baggage collected and forwarded. Letters reeoi red and po-^ted 
 
 to all countries. 
 
 DAVID EOBERTSON AND CO., 
 
 ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO, 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 39 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 HOTEL soi-3:t^eiz:ei?.kof'c 
 
 HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors. 
 
 THE I.ARCJEST MOTEL. JN SWITZERI.AWI>. 
 
 Best Situation on the Quay, with splendid view of the cele- 
 hra-ted panorama of the Lake and Mountains. 
 
 ''FHE high, reputation whicli this establisliment enjoys among 
 Travellers, and especially English and American fernilies, is the best and 
 strongest assurance of its superior arrangement and comfort. Its new immense 
 Dining-Koom, with adjoining Garden'^Salon, aud large Parlour, attract the attention 
 of erery Visitor. 
 
 Eeduced Prices (Pension) are made for longer visits in the early and later 
 Darts of the Season. 
 
 BERLIN. 
 
 HOTEL D'AlSrOLETERRE, 
 
 2, PLACE AN DEE BAUACADEMIE, 2. 
 
 SITUATED IN THE FINEST AND HOST ELEGANT PART OF THE TOWN, 
 
 Near to the Royal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres. 
 
 Single travellers and large families can be accommodated with entire suites of Apartments, 
 consisting of splendid Saloons, airv Bedrooms, kc„ all furnished and carpeted in the best 
 ICnglish style. First-rate Table-d'fiote, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Times and GaZignani'a 
 Afessenger taken in. Residence of Her British Majesty's Messengers. 
 
 B. SIEBELIST, Proprietor. 
 
 INNSBRUCK. 
 
 OTEL GOLDEN SUK— M. Horandtner, Proprietor.— 
 
 . This first-class Hotel, situated in the finest, part of the town, and only four minutes' 
 walk from the Railway Station, enjoys a high reputation for beint; lionoured with the 
 patronage of travellers of all nations. The greatest care is given to the attendance. Large 
 and small well-furnished Apartments for Families and Single Gentlemen. English spoken. 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 O WAN HOTEL.— This Hotel, in the very best situation, 
 
 O enjoys a high character. IVIr. H/EFELI, the Proprietor, has made in the later years 
 a great many improv. meats, and does his utmost to offer to his visitors a comfortable 
 home. An elegant new Ladies' Drawing-room, besides a Reading-room and Smoking-room. 
 Cold, Warm, and Shower Baths. 
 
40 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mav, 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 VICTORIA HOTEL, 
 
 'THIS fine large Establishment, situated on the j^ublic Prome- 
 
 • - nade of the English quartei-, in tlie immediate vicinity of all thejsuriosities, 
 contains OxK Hundkkd Rooms. Table d'Hote at One and Five o'clock. 
 
 Thf Garden of ihe Tlotd affords its guests cm ayreeahle Promenade, 
 
 CABBIAGES. 
 READLXG ROOM WITH ENGLISH AND AMERICAN PAPERS. 
 
 To Families or Sin^ie Persons desirous of taking Apart- 
 ments for the Winters advantageous arrangements will be 
 offered. 
 
 Propriet(>r and 3ff'.nager of the Hotel, 
 
 CAUL WEISS. 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 HOTEL DE L'ANGE D^OR. 
 
 ^^HIS first-class -Hotel, situated in the very hest quarter of the 
 
 *- town, close to the Royal Palace, the Museums, and the Theatre, recommends 
 itself by its good management and excellent cuisine. Large and small Apartments. 
 English and French Newspapers. Table d'Hote. Restaurant and Private Dinners 
 at all hours. Hot and Cold Baths in the Hotel. 
 
 Prices very moderate in Winter. 
 
 JOS. HENEION, Peoprietoi?. 
 
 ST. JOHANN, SAARBRUCK. 
 
 o-D^CrJOO 
 
 HOTEL ZIMMERMAN N. 
 
 T ARGE and Small Apartments. Exquisite Cuisine and First- 
 da ss Wines. Best Bedd. Moderate Prices. Good Attendance. 
 
 OMNIBUS AT ALL THE TRAINS. 
 
 CARRIAGES TO BE HAD AT TH HOTEL. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41 
 
 The Miniature Photographic Apparatus 
 for Tourists. 
 
 NO KNOWLEDGE OF PHOTOGBAPHY BEQUISITE. 
 
 Sole Ma>!ufacturees: 
 MURRAY & HEATH, Opticians, &c., to Her Majesty, 
 
 69, JERMYN STREET, LONDON, S.W. 
 Description and Prices forwarded on receipt of stamped envelope. 
 
 HANOVER. 
 
 UNION HOTEL. 
 
 ''rHIS well-known first-class and favourite Hotel, for private 
 
 -■- Families and Gentlemen, patronised by Her Royal Highness Piincess Mary and 
 Duke of Cambridge, also Her Majesty the Empress of Fiance, on her way to 
 Wilhelmshohe, is beautifully and cheerfully situated right opjiosite the Railway 
 Station. Elegance and comfort combined. English and French spoken. The utmost 
 attention and civility. A regular Table d'Hote, and Private Dinner to order. 
 Baths in the house. Pi ivate Carriages always ready. English and French News- 
 papers. The Hotel is open all night. 
 
 The new Proprietor, Mr. F. Volkers, has just opened a very f:ne Coffee Eoom and a beautiful 
 Kefreslimcnt-rooni, attached to the Hotel. Pension 6 t'rs, a day, everythins included- 
 
 WILDB AD. 
 
 Hotel Klumpp, formerly Hotel de I'Ours, 
 
 Mr. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor. 
 
 THIS First-class Hotel, containing 36 Salons and 170 Bed-rooms, a separate 
 Breakfast, a very extensive and elegant Dining-room, new Reading and 
 Conversation as well as Smoking Salons, with an artificial Garden over the river, 
 is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate 
 vicinity of the Promenade. 
 
 It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good cuisine and 
 cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent hotel. Table-d'hote 
 at One and Five o'clock. Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte. 
 
 EXCHANGE OFFICE. 
 
 Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of 
 Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel to and from each Train, Elegant private carriages, 
 
 xchen required. 
 
42 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 WIESBADEN. 
 
 FOUR SEABOMS HOTEL & BATHS. 
 
 PBOPBIETOB, DR. ZAIS. 
 
 THIS First-Class Establislimeiit, equal to any on the 
 
 -^ Ehine, is in the best and most delightful situation in the Great Square, 
 opposite the Kursaal, the Tlieatre, the Promenades; close to the Boiling 
 Spring and the new English Chapel. 
 
 This Hotel is the largest in the place, containing a great choice of 
 
 SPLEroiD AID OOMIOIITABLE APAETMEITS, 
 
 for Families and Single Travellers ; exquisite Cuisine and first-class Wines, 
 combined with attentive service and moderate charges. 
 
 TABLE D'KOTE at 1 and 5 p.m., and PEIYATE DIMEES. 
 
 Numerous comfortahte Bathing Cabinets, supplied with Hbt^ Mineral^ 
 
 and Siveet Waters. 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 HOTEL BEAU RIYAG 
 
 Proprietor— Mr. ED. STRUB. 
 
 THIS newly-establislied Hotel is fitted up with every comfort, 
 and I'econimends itself hy its mnojiiiHcent view on the Rigi, Pilatus, &c. 
 Beautiful Gardens. Pleasure Boats. Private Saloons for ladies and families. 
 Smoking-rooms. Baths. YaviGty of Newspapers. Most scrupulous attendance. 
 Moderate prices. (Pieduced j)rices for protracted visits.) Omnibus at the Railway 
 Station. 
 
 FHAHKFORT-OT^r-MAIlSr. 
 
 UNION HOTEL (formerly Weidenhusch).— A First-class Hotel for Families 
 and Single Genilemen, situated in the richest quarter of the town, near the Stathaus, 
 the Promenade, Musemn. Post-office, and Theatre. Baths, Reading and Smoking Poora. 
 Moderate Charges. Arrangtme.nU by the Week or Jlnntii. 
 
 BRUNO STRUBELL, Pkoppjetgr. 
 
 NASSAU. 
 
 Seventh Edition, with Illustration-^, Post 8vo., 75. 6d. 
 
 BUBBLES from the BRUJN'NElSr. 
 
 By an old man. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 43 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Messrs. Anthony Sasso & Son, Artists, 
 
 4, VIA DI BOEGO OGNISSANTI, 
 
 Distinscwished with Medals at the Italian Exhibition of 1861, k&ep the most beautiful and 
 rich I'riv^ate Gallery in the City of Ancient and modern original pictures, copies of the most 
 celebrated pictures in the Public Galleries, water-colour paintings, and beautiful ancient 
 carved cabinets, &c. ., ♦ ... ■ 
 
 ENGLISH SPOKKN. 
 
 Agents and Correspondentf: in England and America : — 
 Messrs. J. Sz R. McCRACKRM, 38, Queen Street. Cannon Street. London, EC. 
 ?tressrs. iJUNCAX, SHIRMAN, & CO,, and Messrs. AUSTIN. BALDWIN, & CO., New York. 
 
 NUREMBERG. 
 
 HOTEL DE BAYIERE 
 
 CBAYERISCHER HOF). 
 
 THIS old-established, first-class, and best situated Hotel, in the 
 centre of the town, close to the river, contains suites of apartments and 
 single rooms, ail elegantly furnished in the new style. Jt is patronised by the 
 most distinguished families. English Divine Service during the season. Foreign 
 newspapers. Carriages in tlie Hotel. Omnibus to and from each tram. Moderate 
 and fixed prices. 
 
 HEIDELBERG, 
 
 THIS ne\Y, maguificent, first-rate Establisliment, sur- 
 rounded by private and public gardens, with a Yiew of 
 the Castle, and in the very best situation in Heidelberg, 
 enjoys an European reputation. 
 
 EEADING ROOM, 
 
 Reduced prices for j^'^'otr acted stay, and for 
 the Winter Season. 
 
 H^FELI-GUJER, Proprietor. 
 
44 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 VILLENEUVE. 
 
 NEAB TO THE CASTLE OF CHILLOX. 
 
 New Proprietor, GUSTAVE WOLFF. 
 
 Same Proprietor as of the Hotel de I'Ecu at Geneva. 
 
 FIEST-CLASS HOTEL, oifering every comfort for an agreeable residence; 
 surrounded by a vast Park and a beauiilul Garden, and admirably bituated for excursions 
 to the mountains. Heading, Billiard, and Smokinf^ Rooms. Reduced prices for a prolonged 
 stay. Horses and Carriages. Breakfast; Table-d'IIote. Private Dinners at any liour. English 
 <;poken. Landing place for Steamers. Telegraph Bureau. 
 
 GENEVA. (SWITZERLAND.) 
 
 H c> T 35: L 13 e: l ' e: c u. 
 
 New Proprietor, GUSTAVE WOLFF. 
 
 Also Proprietor of Hotel Bi/ron, near Villeneuve. 
 
 ^PHIS unrivalled and admirably conducted Hotel has long enjoyed an 
 J- extensive and high reputation among Travellers. .Situated in the finest part of the town, 
 and fiicing the laky, it commands a beautiful view of the environs. Its accommodation is of 
 so superior a character, that tourists ■nill find it a highly desirable place of residence or of 
 temporary sojourn. Table-d'HGte at I o'clock. 4 fr. ; at 5 o'clock, 4 Ir. Arrangeinenis made 
 with families during the winter mouths at very reasonable charges. New Head big and* 
 .Smoking Rooms. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 Manufactory of Mnsical Boxes. 
 
 SAMUEL TROLL FILS, 
 
 WHOLESALE, RETAIL. EXPORTATION. 
 
 6, EUE BONIVAED, 
 GROUND FLOOR, NEAR THE ENGLISH CHURCH, GENEVA, 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE. 
 
 THIS well-known First-class Hotel, kept by Messrs. MAX and 
 CHARLES DOIJN, has been recently enlarged and embellished. It contains 
 150 Front Rooms, and is situated in the centre ot" the town, at the New Square, 
 in the immediate vicinity of all the curiositie.?. Table-d'Hote at one and four 
 o'clock, in the splendid dining-hall fir.'st-floor. Carnages, Reading-room, with 
 English and American Papers, and Srooi<ing*ioom. ^t'lrh redno'd prices for 
 the winter. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 45 
 
 DIEPPE. 
 
 HOTEL ROYAL, 
 
 FACING THE BEACH, 
 
 Close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. 
 
 TT IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS 
 i- IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the 
 Sea. 
 
 Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establish- 
 ment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accommo- 
 dation, at very reasonable prices. Large Keading-room, with French 
 and English Newspapers. 
 
 The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality. 
 
 In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion 
 expressed of it in Murray's and other Guide Books. 
 
 Tahle-d'Eote and Private Dinners, 
 
 NUREMBERG. 
 
 BED HORSE HOTEL 
 
 (PcOthes Ross), 
 Proprietor : M. P. GALIMBEKTl. Manager: M. BAUER. 
 rpHIS excellent old-established Hotel, situated in one of the best quarters of the 
 J- town, is well adapted for Tourists and Families making a visit to Muremberg of 
 some duration, and who will find every conceivable comfort and convenience. 
 Table-d'Hdte at 1 p.m., and Private Dinners at all hours. The Establishment 
 will be found well worthy of the renown and patronage it has enjoyed from English 
 travellers of the highest rank during many years. 
 
 ZOUG. 
 
 OTAG HOTEL. Near the Steamboat landing -ijlace. 
 
 ^ Beautifully situated, and the best Hotel in the town. Modeiate piices. 
 A large and elegantly fitted-up Dining Hall. 
 
 Board and Residence, b to Q francs per day. 
 
 _- BRUXELLES. 
 
 THE GEAND HOTEL DE SAXE, Rue Neuve, 77 and 70, is 
 
 J- admirably situated close to the Boulevards and Theatres, aiid is the nearest Hotel to tlie 
 Railway titatiuns. The Hotel is considerably enlarged, and has a new Dining-room which 
 will contaiu 300 persons. Fixed prices: — Plain Breakfast, lif. ; Dinner at the lable-d'hote, 
 3it. ; Bedrooms, 4-50 f., 5-GO i.. 6 f. the first night each bed, Service and Candles included ; the 
 second night, 3-75 f., 4-75 f., and 5-25 f; Sitting-rooms, 3 to )2f. ; .Steaks or Cutlets, Ihf. 
 Travellers nuist beware of coachmen and conductors of omnibuses who endeavour to drive 
 them to some other hotel. 
 
46 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 RHEiNFALL, NEUHAUSEN, SCHAFFHAUSEN. 
 
 HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. Phofrietor, Mk. wegenstein. , 
 rpHE HOTEL SCHWEIZEEHOF, known to English visitors as 
 
 i. one of the best Hotels in Switzerland, has bt;en greatly enlarged since last year, and id 
 now a f-plendid tirst-rate establishment. 
 
 The SCH\VKIZI-:HH0F is situate oppoMte the celebrated Falls of the Rhine, arid sur- 
 rounded Ijy a fiTie park and garden. 'J'he position is unsurpassed, the eye ranging a distance 
 of above 180 miles— a panoramic view including the whole range of the Swiss Alps and the 
 jMont Blanc. Healthy climate. Church Service. Preserved Trout Fishiog.j Prices moderate. 
 Pension. Hotel Omnibuses at Neuhausen and SchaEhausen. 
 
 BARCELONA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS. 
 
 IN THE RAMBLA. 
 Kept by Messrs. FORTIS & CO. " 
 'PHIS IS a first-rate Establishment, ad vantageoiisly situated close to 
 
 jL the Post-office and the Theatre, with a southern aspect, and newly decorated. 'J'able- 
 d'hote; private servi-e ; large and small apartments; many lire-places; baths; reading- 
 rooms ; Spatiish and foreign newspupers. Carriages of every descriptiuu. Omnibus at the 
 Railway Stations. Interpreters. Moderate tenns. 
 
 HOM BURG. 
 
 HOTEL DES aUATRE SAISONS. 
 
 MR. SCHLOTTERBECK, Peopkietoe. 
 
 '^PHIS Hotel is of the tirst dass, an«i enjoys a vrcli-meiiterl re]>titalioii. 
 -L It is situated near the Springs and the Cursaal. "Excellent Table-d'Hote and Wiucs; 
 tho Proprietor is a large dealer in Wines; and endeavours to make the stay of his patrons as 
 comfortable and pleasant as possible. 
 
isn. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 4? 
 
 Ml LAN. 
 
 Just opposite the Public Gardens. 
 
 KEPT BY J. SUAEDI AND CO. 
 
 '^PHIS first-rate Hotel is fitted up with every modem appliance, and situated in tii8 tiue^t 
 X part of Milan. It commands a fine view of the Promenade near to the Station, the Grand 
 Theatre, the National Museum, and tbe Protestant Church. Kxcellent Table-d'hote. Charges 
 very moderate. Baths on each floor. A Smoiiing and a Reading lioom supplied with foreign 
 newspapers. 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all trains. 
 
 INTERLACHEN. 
 
 HOTEL DE BELLE ¥UE, 
 
 Kept by Me. HEKMANN" RIMPS. 
 
 EXCELLENT Second-class Hotel, very well situated, containing a 
 branch '• Pension Felsenogg," with a fine Garden attached. It has been recently enlaiged 
 and newly furnished, and contains 80 Beiis. Boarders taken in, per day 5i francs duriiiE: the 
 months of May, June, September, October ; and 6^ francs per day during the months of July, 
 and August. English, French, and German Newspapers. Omnibuses; Private Carriages, 
 and Saddle Horses. English spoken. Moderate charges. 
 
 INTERLAKEN, 
 
 ITotel and. Pension. •Tnng'fre.ix., 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. F. SEILER. 
 
 THIS excellent Hotel is situated on the finest Promenade, and is surrounded with 
 a large and beautiful Garden, from which an extensive view is to be had all over the 
 Glaciers. English travellers will find at this Hotel large and small well-furnished apartments 
 and rooms for families and single tourists. Moderate charges. 
 
 YOUNG- GE35i"TLEME3Sr, EXETER. 
 
 .^^''t'^^^It?!flLTfor HOYALCIASENCE HOTEL, 
 
 BOARD, and EDUcItION, by Kev. CATHEDRAL YARD. 
 
 Rt. Thomson, Graduate of the London LADIES' COFFEE ROOM.^ 
 and Edinburgh Universities, at 12, Rut- Hot and Cold Baths. 
 
 land Square, Edinburgh. "W. BIRKETT, Proprietor. 
 
 BELLAGIO, LAKE OF COMO. 
 
 » o < 
 
 HOTEL AND PENSION VILLA GIULA 
 
 (CHATEAU DU EOI DES BELGES). 
 ^pHE undersigned has tlie honour to announce to Tourists 
 
 X tlTat the beautitul VILLA GIULIA has be.-n transformed into an Hotel, and will be 
 opened for the Second Season from the 1st of APRIL, 1871. The fine position of the Palace, 
 which commands a view of the two bra:!ches of the L-ike, a park of 250 hectares, and the 
 beauty of the gardens, united with the comforts and conveniences which long exjierience 
 has suggested, do not fail to make a stay agreeable and pleasant to all Travellers who 
 visit it. He has the honour to aunoimce that in his Hotel "ORANDK BilETAGNE," also 
 at Bellagio, he has introduced every convenience possible which cannot fail to render it an 
 agreeable and comfortable abode to all who will favour it with their puironage. 
 
 A. MEIiLA, Managing Proprietor. 
 
48 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 OTHING LIKE IRON. 
 
 AFKIENl) boasts of his iron constitution, 
 and says that he is always cheerful, hearty, and as 
 strong as old nails; such splendid condition of bodily and 
 mental vigour he mainly attributes to pood regular living, 
 and the occasional use of PARR'S LIFE PILLS. 
 This pure herbal medicine is everywhere acceptable, and its 
 vouderful curative properties are as familiar to the million 
 is '• household words." 
 
 In boxes, is.lid, 2s. dd., and in Family Packets, lis. each . 
 Sold by all Chemists. 
 
 May also be had at all the principal Drug Stores in the 
 East and West Indies, South America, Australia, Cape of 
 Good Hope, New Zealand, &c. 
 
 LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. 
 THE VAL1L,EY OF H.OCKS IIOTEL. 
 
 JOPIN CROOK, Propkietor. 
 
 The above well-known Hotel has lately had extensive alterations, additions and improve- 
 ments. It contains all the appointments of a First-Class Establishment. 
 
 Charges strictly moderate. Situation unrivalled. Splendid views of Land and Sea. 
 
 Handsome Coffee Rooms. 
 
 Most conveniently situate as a centre for visiting all the places of interest in the districf , 
 
 Post Horses and Carriages. — Stables and Coach Bouses, 
 
 Coaches during the season to llfracombe, Barnstaple, and the West Somerset Rail way. 
 
 VEVAY (Switzerland). 
 H O T JD X.. ^X O jX IN' 33 T, 
 
 Dit des 3 Couronnes. 
 
 Messrs. SCHOTT & CO., Proprietors, and Successors to Mr. Moiinet. 
 
 ''pHIS Large and First-class Establishment, situated close to 
 
 -*- the Lake, allords superior accommodation for Families and Gentlemen. It has 
 been lately considerably enlarged by the addition of a new Wing looking upon the 
 Lake, in which is the largest and most elegant Salle-a-Manger in Switzerland. It is 
 extensively patronised for its comfort and cleanliness. Persons i-emaining some 
 time will find this fl most desirable Residence ; and from October 1.") to .June 1 
 they can live here moderately en pension. 
 
 DIEPPE. 
 
 HOTEL ])E~S BAINS 
 
 (MORGAN), 
 
 FACING the Sea and Baths, of the Highest Class, qitiet, 
 thoroughly recommendable, A large private House also on the beach for Families, 
 
1871. * MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 49 
 
 ■VIEIVWA (Austria). 
 
 HOTEL " ARCHDUKE CHARLES." 
 
 Kept by M. JOSEF ZIMMERMANN, 
 
 The new Proprietor. 
 
 rpHIS First-class Hotel, situated in the best part of Vienna, 
 lias been greatly improved in modern comfort, recherche 
 cuisine and excellent service at moderate charges. The 
 Landlord will spare no trouble to maintain its ancient repu- 
 tation, and to give satisfaction to the travelling Gentry and 
 Nobility. 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS. 
 
 CEVASCO BROTHERS, Proprietors. 
 
 npHIS Hotel can be strongly recommended: it is in one of the best 
 -*- situations in Genoa, and travellers will find there very good rooms, 
 moderate charges, cleanliness, excellent Table-d'hote, as well as private 
 service, with great attention and civility ; the comfort of visitors being 
 consulted. 
 
 English spoken hi/ the Fropi^letor, 
 
50 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 Ma^, 
 
 FRANKFORT O. M. 
 
 FRIEDPJCH BiJHLER, 
 
 ZEIL, No. 54, 
 
 NEXT DOOR TO THK POST OFFICE. 
 
 PRIZE MEDAT., EONDON. 186'^. 
 
 CARVED STAGHORN AND IVORY ORNAMENTS, 
 
 CARVED WOOD WORK (Vieuxchenc) Furniture & Fancy Objects, 
 (i*^ lochs, Xamps, ^rou^cs, Chinii, #autn girtitlcs of cbcri| description. 
 
 SPECIALTTIKS OF GERMAN ARTICLES 
 
 Vienna Bronzes, Marquetry, Leather and Meerschaum Goods, Travelling 
 
 Articles, Toilette Requisites, etc., etc. 
 
 SUPERIOR COPIES OF THE ARIADNE BY DANNICKER. 
 
 Gennine F.au. de Cologne of Jean Marie Farina, opposite the JiUichsplatz.. 
 
 FIXED PRICES. 
 
 The Agents in London are IMessrs. J. and R. IMcCracken, 38, Queen Streei, 
 
 Cannon Street West. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51 
 
 NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK OF ENGLAND 
 
 ESTABLISHED IN THE YEAR 1833. 
 
 Head Office— KiSHOPSGATE STREET, comer of THREADNEEDLE STREET. 
 St. James' Branch— 14, WATERLOO PLACE, PALL MALL. 
 St. Marylebone ., 28, BAKER STREET. 
 Islington „ 173, UPPER STREET. 
 
 Capital. 
 
 SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL £2,550,000 
 
 PAID-UP CAPITAL 1,170,000 
 
 RESERVE FUND 276,840 8 5 
 
 No. of SHAREHOLDERS 2,273,. 
 
 BivcttavS. 
 
 Right Hon. Lord Ernest Augustus Charles | Sir James Sibbald David Scott, Bart. 
 
 Erudexell Bruce, M.P., 7, St. George's i 18, Cornwall C4ardens, W. 
 
 Place, Hyde Park Corner, S.W. | Richard Blaney Wadk, Esq., 13, Seymour 
 
 JoHx Oliver Haxson, Esq., 4, Dorset I Street. Portman Square. W. 
 
 Square. i Hon. Eliot Ihomas Yorke, 15, Park 
 
 Street, Grosv<-nor Square, W. 
 
 John Kingston, Esq., 6, Crosby Square. 
 Henkt M'Chleky, Esq., 18, Leadenhall 
 
 Street. 
 Henry Paull, E.«q., 33, Devonshire Place, 
 
 Portland Place, W. 
 John Stewart, Esq., 4, Bank Buildings, 
 
 Lothbury. 
 
 Duncan Macdonald, Ksq.,\Veybank Lodge, 
 
 Guildford, Surrey, and IBelgrave Mansions, 
 
 Grosvenor Gardens. 
 George Hanbuky Field, Esq., 67, Eccleston 
 
 Square. 
 Alkx. Robertson, Esq.,20, Grafton Street, 
 
 Berkeley Square, VV., and the College, 
 
 Elgin, N.B. 
 
 The National Provincial Bank of England, having numerous branches in England and 
 Wales, as well as agents and correspondents at home and abroad, affords great facilities to 
 parties transacting Banking business with It in London. Customers keeping accounts with 
 the Bank in town may have moneys paid to their credit at its various branches, and remitted 
 free of charge. 
 
 Current accounts conducted at the Head Office and Metropolitan Branches on the usual 
 terms of London Banks. 
 
 Deposits at interest received in London of sums of lOL and upwards, for which receipts ar« 
 granted, called " Deposit Receipts ;" and interest allowed according to the value of money 
 from time to time as advertised by the Bank in the newspapers. 
 
 The Agency of Country and Foreign Banks, whether Joint Stock or Private, is undertaken. 
 
 Purchases and Sales effected in all Briti?h and Foreign Stocks ; and Dividends, Annuities, 
 &c., received for customers. 
 
 Circular Notes and Letters of Credit are issued for the use of Travellers on the Continent 
 .ind elsewhere. 
 
 The Officers of the Bank are bound to secrecy as regards the transactions of its customers. 
 
 Copies of the last Annual Report of the Bank, Lists of Shareholders, Braiitlie.<, Agents, 
 and Correspondents, may be had on application at the Head Office, and at any of the Bank's 
 Branchps. 
 
 By order of the Directors, 
 
 E. ATKINSON, ? Joint 
 
 WM. HOLT, ) General Managers. 
 
52 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, May, 
 
 PENZANCE, CORNWALL. 
 
 MOUNT'S BAY HOUSE, 
 
 ESPLANADE, PENZANCE, CORNWALL, 
 
 Has been erected and fitted up expressly as a 
 S EAS I D E 
 
 FAMILY HOTEL & SUPERIOR LODGINa-HOUSE. 
 
 NO expense or labour has been spared by tlie Proprietor. 
 Tlie house is furnished iu the most modern style, is well supplied with Hot 
 and Cold Baths, and replete with every accommodation suitable t'pr Tourists to 
 West Cornwall. 
 
 All the Drawing Rooms command an uninterrupted and unmrpassedV\QVf of that 
 ♦ Beauteous gem set in the silver sea,' 
 St. Michael' .s Mount, and the whole of the magnificent Bay. 
 
 luA-alids will find in Mount's Bay House the comforts of a home, while thf> 
 beauty and salubrity of the situation, and its nearness to the charming walks on 
 the sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful residence. 
 Suites of apartments for families of distinction. 
 
 Choice Wines and Ales. Post Horses and Carriages. Charges moderate. 
 E. LAVIJST, Proprietor. 
 
 ANTWE R P. 
 
 HOTEL m GRAND LASOliPiEUR, 
 
 PLACE DJS MEIE, 26. 
 
 This old-established, and highlj-recornmended Hotel, which 
 has been considerably enlarged, is situated in the finest and 
 healthiest square of the city of Antwerp ; its cleanliness and 
 the excellency of the Table-d'Hote and Wines, added to the 
 attention and civility shown to all visitors, have made it 
 deservedly popular. 
 
 HOT AND COLD BATHS. 
 ENGLISH AND FRENCH NEWSPAPERS. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. 
 
 (Formerly REGINA D'INGHILTERRA.) 
 
 ROBERT ETZENSBERGER, Manager. 
 
 'THE largest and finest Hotel in Venice, most conveniently 
 
 -^ situated near the Piazza S. Marco and the principal Theatres. 180 Bed- 
 rooms, Private Sitting-rooms, Reading-room, with Piano, Billiard-room, and 
 Smoking-room. Baths of every description, great comfort and cleanliness. Service 
 on the Swiss system. Charges more moderate than in any other first -class Hotel. 
 
 Arrangements for' Pension. 
 
 English spoken by all the Servants. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 JAMES MISSIRIE, Proprietor. 
 
 THIS long- established and well-known Hotel, situated in 
 the GRAND RUE DE PERA, commanding a magnificent view of the 
 UNRIVALLED BOSPHOHUS, is replete with every comfort and convenience for 
 the Accommodation of Families and Tourists. 
 
 A Select Table-d'Hote. 
 
 In consequence of the largely increasing number of Visitors to the OTTOMAN 
 CAPITAL, from the facility with which it can now be reached fiom all parts of 
 Europe, and Passengers who select this agreeable Route to and from INDIA and 
 the EAST, it is requested that Families desirous of securing Rooms telegraph or 
 write in anticipation. Every attention will be paid to instructions thus transmitted. 
 
 CAREFULLY SELECTED INTERPEETERS FOR ALL 
 LANGUAGES. 
 
 27(6 Attendants and Boats of tlie Hotel await the arrived of tie Sttarners, 
 
54 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 RUSSIA. 
 
 HOTEL BILLO, MOSCOW, 
 
 GREAT LUBIANKA STREET. 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. EDWAED BILLO. 
 
 A LREADY advantageously known for these past 20 Yearn, 
 
 -^ ■- and of late considerahlv Enlarged, and newlv I'^urnished witli all the 
 requirements of modern times, this FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, 
 entirely Private, has merited, under the careful attention of the Projjrietor, 
 for its conifort, cleanliness, and order, the unquestionable patronage of the 
 most distinguished Travellers. 
 
 This Hotel is situated in the highest and healthiest part, the very centre 
 of Moscow, with the front to the sunside, and most convenient for visitors 
 on pleasure or business, being near the Imperial Theatre and Opera House, 
 the Kreml, and the Boulevards, ,and also close to the C ty, the Exchange, 
 the Post and Telegraph Offices, and the business places in general. 
 
 Single Rooms and Apartments, excellent Table d'Hote Dinner at Og- p.m., 
 separate dinners, choice wines. Prices moderate. 
 
 Ladies' Room, Reading and Smoking Room. English Newspapers, viz. : 
 'The Times,' ' The CTraphic,' and 'Punch;' French and German News- 
 papers. Every sort of information about the town, its environs, trade, and 
 the inland communications. 
 
 Own Letter-box. Interpreters and Guides. Bank Notes and Bills of 
 Circular Letters changed. 
 
 Cold, Warm, Shower Bathe, Sponge Tubs. Equipages and Droshkies 
 at the door. 
 
 No personal trouble wliatever with the Passports, which are strictly 
 required by the police office. Own Carriage and attendance at the Peters- 
 burg Railway Station to receive tlie Travellers and their Luggage. It is 
 advisable to secure Rooms beforehand, especially during the time of the 
 Nishny Fair (in August), and during the Carnival time (in January and 
 February). 
 
 CAUTION.— Travellers are cautioned not to confound the HOTEL 
 BILLO with other establishments of nearly unisonous names, and 
 to take care not to allow themselves to be led away by the Cabmen 
 or Iswoschtschiks and other interested, persons, especially at 
 St. Petersburg, but to insist on being conducted to the HOTEL 
 BILLO, Great Lubiauka ; in Russian, Gostinnifza B/'llo, Bahhvi 
 LuhianJca. 
 
18?l. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 55 
 
 I'D CONTINENTAL TRAVELLERS; 
 
 DOREELL & SON'S 
 
 15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. 
 
 Every Information given respecting Travelling on the Continent. 
 
 French and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on in either Language. 
 
 British Subjects visit- 
 int; the Continent will 
 save trouble and expense 
 by obtaining their Pass- 
 ports through the above 
 Agency. No personal 
 attendance is required, 
 and country residents 
 may have their Pass- 
 ports forwarded through 
 the post. A 'Passport 
 Prospectus,' containing 
 every particular in de- 
 
 ^ 3?i tail, by post, on applica^ 
 
 r^^J! tion. 
 
 ^ ™' Passports Mounted, 
 and enclosed in Cases, 
 with the name of the 
 bearer impressed in gold 
 on the outside ; thus af- 
 fording security against 
 injury or loss, and pre- 
 venting delay in the 
 frequent examination of 
 the Passport when tra- 
 velling. 
 
 Fee, Obtaining Passport, Is. 6d. ,• Visas, is. each. Cases, is. 6d. to 5s. each. 
 
 THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. 
 
 English and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books, Couriers' Bags, Pocket- 
 books and Purses of every description, Travelling Inkstands, and a va» 
 riety of other Articles useful for Travellers. 
 
 CANTOK DE VAUD, BEX (Switzerland). 
 
 CtRAnd hotel des salines, 
 
 Kept by L. FELLER. 
 
 HYDROPATHY, RUSSIAN BATHS, TURKISH BATHS. 
 
 8AL00N FOR PULVERISED SPRAY BATHS OF 
 VARIOUS MINERAL ^VATERS. 
 
 Established after the newest and most perfect systems known. 
 Consulting Doctor . DR. COSSY^ 
 
 LATELY nOUSE SURGEOX TO THE PARIS HOSPITAL. 
 
56 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 BY ROYAL «^^S^^^^ COMMAND. 
 
 JOSEPH GI LLO T T'S 
 
 CELEBRATED 
 
 STE EL PE NS. 
 
 Sold by all Dealers throughout the World. 
 
 Every Packet bears the Eac-simile 
 of his Signature, 
 
 GENEVA. 
 A. GOLAY, LERESCHE & SONS, 
 
 31, QTJAl BBS BEPMUES, and 1, PLACE DU PORT, 
 MANUFACTURERS OF WATCHES AND JEWELRY. 
 
 Two large Establishments, completely furnished with goods of the newest designs. 
 Warranted Watches of all kinds, especially of Chronometers and with complex 
 movements. Also a very large assortment of Jewelry. 
 
 House in Paris, No. 2, HUE DE LA PAIX. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 CHATEAU DE PEANGINS. 
 
 TEIRTx MINUTES FROM GENEVA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL, in one of the finest positions on the Lake 
 of Geneva. Splendid View of Mont Blanc. Magnificent Terrace. Keigh- 
 bourhood nicely shaded. Princely Habitation. 
 
 Reduced Price for a Prolonged Stay. 
 
 SEBILLE, Proprietok. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 57 
 
 BOOKS AND MAPS FOR TRAVELLERS 
 
 xis isn. 
 
 The Play-ground of Europe. By Leslie Stephen, late 
 
 Presidant of the Alpine Club. With Four Woodcut Illustrations by E. Whympek. 
 Crown Svc, price ICs. 6(2. 
 
 Pau and the Pyrenees. By Count Henry Russell, Member 
 
 of the Geographical and Geological Societies of France, of the Alpine Club, of the 
 Societe Ramond, &c. With Two Maps and a Panorama. Square fcap. 8vo., price 5s. 
 
 Guide to the Pyrenees, for the Use of Mountaineers. By 
 
 Chaklks Packe. Second Edition, corrected; with Frontispiece and Map, and an 
 Appendix. Crown 8vo., price 7s. 6d. 
 
 Ball's Guide to the Western Alps, Mont Blanc, Monte 
 
 ROSA, kc. Including the whole range of the Alps of Piedmont, Dauphine, and Savoy, 
 from Nice to the Pass of the Simplon. New Edition, revised, May, 1870, Post y vo. 
 with Maps, &.C., price 10s. 6i. 
 
 Ball's Guide to the Eastern Alps, including the Salzburg 
 
 and Central Tyrolese Chains, the Styrian Alps, and the Terglou District from the Valley 
 of the Drave to the Adriatic. New Ediiion, 1869. Post 8vo., with Maps, &c., price 
 10s. Gd. 
 
 Ball's Guide to the Central Alps, including the Bernese 
 
 Obcrland, with Lombaruy and the adjoining portion of the Tyrol. New Edition, 1869. 
 Post 8vo., with Maps, &c., price 7s. 6ci. 
 
 Map of the - Chain of Mont Blanc, from an Actual 
 
 Survey in 1863-1861. By A. Ada3is-Reilly, F.R.G.S., 3I.A.C. In Chi omo. lithography 
 on extra stout Drawing Paper 28 inches by 17 inches, price 10s. To be had also mounted 
 on CANVA.S, in a folding case, price 12s. 6d. 
 
 Map of the Valpelline, the Val Tournanche, and the 
 
 Southern Valleys of the Chain of MONTE ROSA, from an actual Survey in 1865-1S66. 
 By A. Ada.ms-Reillt, F.R.G.S., M.A.C. In Chromo-lithography, on extra stout Drawing 
 Paper, 25 inches by 14 inches, price 6s. 'To be had also mounted on Canvas, folded and 
 jointed, for Pocket ok Kxapsack, price 75. &d. 
 
 The High Alps without Guides ; being a Narrative of 
 
 Adventures in Switzerland, together v.ith Chapters on the Fraclicability oi snch mode of 
 Mountaineering, and Suggestions for its Accomplishment. By the Rev. A. G. Girdle- 
 stone, M.A. SVith Frontispiece and Two Maps. Square crown Sa'o., price 7s. 6rf. 
 
 C adore, or Titian's Country. By Josiah Gilbert, one of 
 
 the Authors of the ' Dolomite Mountains.' With Map, Facsimile, and 40 Illustrations. 
 Imperial 8vo., price 3 Is. 6ci. 
 
 Zigzagging amongst Dolomites. By the Author of 
 
 ' How we Spent the Summer.' With upwards of Three Hundred Illustrations in fac* 
 siuille of Original Sketches by the Author. Oblong 4to., price 15s. 
 
 Travels in the Central Caucasus and Bashan, including 
 
 Visits to Ararat ami Tubreez and Ascents of Kazbek and Elbruz. Bj' Douglas W. 
 FjiESHFiELD. With Maps and Illustrations. Square crown 8vo., price iss. 
 
 LONDON: LONGMANS, GREEN &fCO., PATERNOSTER ROW. 
 
58 JIURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVbXiTISER, May, 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 No. 2, PLACE DES BERGUES. 
 
 GEO. BAKER, 
 
 ENGLISH CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST, 
 
 PRESCEIPTIONS CAREFULLY PREPARED. 
 
 ALL KINDS OF PATENT MEDICINES & PERFUMERY. 
 
 Homoeopathic Preparations. Soda and Saratoga "Water. 
 
 Medicines and Preparations forwarded with the greatest despatch and 
 safety to all parts of Switzerland by Post. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 17 & 18, VIA BELLA MEROEDE. 
 
 GEO. BAKER, 
 
 KIVOLISII CHEiWCIST, OEIVKVA, 
 
 INFORMS the Inhabitants and Visitors of Rome that he has opened an 
 Establishment at the above address, for the supply of Eno:lish specialities 
 and goods adapted for the use of Families at prices far inferior to those 
 hitherto charged in Rome. 
 
 NICE. 
 
 PHARMACIE DANIEL ET C^^- 
 
 QUAI MASSENA. 
 
 GEO. BAKER, 
 
 Er^OLISH CHE1\XIST OIT OEIVJEVA, 
 
 INFORMS the Visitors and Residents of Nice, that he has succeeded to 
 the above old established and justly renowned Pharmacy, and that having 
 associated with him Mr. GEORGE BUSBY, who for nine years past has 
 been Assistant Manager of it, he hopes by careful attention and a moderate 
 Scale of Charges, not only to maintain, but to extend, its ancient and well 
 deserved reputation. 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 59 
 
 THE FURNISHING OF BED-ROOMS. 
 
 HEAL & SON have 16 separate Kooms, each completely furnished with 
 a ditferent Suite of Furniture, irrespective of their D:eneral Stock displayed 
 in Six Galleries and Two Large Ground-floor Warerooms, the whole 
 forming the most complete stock of Bed-room Furniture in the Kingdom. 
 
 Japanned Deal Goods may be seen in complete suites of five or six 
 different colours, some of them light and ornamental, and others of a 
 plainer description. Suites of Stained Deal Gothic Furniture, Polished 
 Deal, Oak, and Walnut, are also set apart for separate rooms, so that 
 customers are able to see the effect as it would appear in their own rooms. 
 A Suite of very superior Gothic Oak Furniture will generally be kept in 
 stock, and from time to time new and select Furniture in various woods 
 will be added. 
 
 Bed Furnitures are fitted to the Bedsteads in large numbers, so that a 
 complete assortment may be seen, and the eflect of any particular pattern 
 ascertained as it would appear on the Bedstead. 
 
 A very large stock of Bedding (HEAL & SON'S original trade) is 
 placed on the BEDSTEADS. 
 
 The Stock of Mahogany Goods for the better Bed-rooms, and Japanned 
 Goods for plain and Servants' use, is very greatly increased. The entire 
 Stock is arranged in sixteen rooms, six galleries, eacli 120 feet long, and 
 large ground-floors, the whole forming as complete an assortment of Bed- 
 room Furniture as they think can possibly be desired. 
 
 Every attention is paid to the manufacture of the Cabinet work and 
 tliey have large Workshops on the premises for this purpose, that the 
 manufacture may be under their own immediate care. 
 
 Their Bedding trade receives their constant and persocal attention, 
 every article being made on the premises. 
 
 They particularly call attention to their Patent Spring Mattrass, the 
 Sommier Elastique Portatif. It is portable, durable, and elastic, and lower 
 in price than the old Spring Mattrass. 
 
 EAL AND SON'S 
 
 ILLUSTBATED OATALOOUE OF 
 
 BEDSTEADS, BEDDING, & BED-ROOM FURNITURE, 
 
 StNT FREE BY POST. 
 
 196, 197, 198, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD. 
 
60 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 VISITORS TO NAPLES. 
 
 GENEKAL AGENCY & COMMISSION OFFICE of the BEITISH LIBRARY 
 
 {jEstaUished in 1837 by Mrs. Durant), 
 
 DIRECTED Br 
 
 GEORGE CIVALLEEI, 
 
 Palazzo Friozzi, No. 267, Riviera di Chiaja. ' 
 
 WORKS OF ART, GOODS, AND LUGGAGE 
 
 forwarded to and received from all parts of the world, and warehoused at moderate charges 
 
 of rent. 
 
 BANK BILLS, CIRCtJLAE NOTES, AND LETTERS OF CREDIT 
 
 cashed free of commission. 
 
 COVNTIS.'Y IXTZirSS OF £V£RY DESCilZPTZOXa', 
 
 both in Bottle and in Cask, for exportation, at reduced prices. 
 
 FOREIGN WINES, ENGLISH BEERS, TEAS, 4-c., IMPORTED. 
 
 Agency Business of e%'ery description attended to ; also the PURCHASE of LANDS, 
 HOUSES, or VIELAS for the account of Foreigners. 
 
 Correspondents f Messrs. OLIVIER & CO., 37, Finsbury Square. 
 
 in London | Messrs. CHAELES CARR & Co., 14, Bishopsgate Street. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 12 XjTTisra-' -A-:R,isro i^rtro-vo- 
 
 MONTELATiG! BROTHERS, 
 
 ||lamTfactitr£rs of Jkrcntiiic ^nsEits. 
 
 ASSORTMENT OF CASKETS AND ALBUMS. 
 
 COMMISSIONS AND EXPORTATION. 
 
 SUCCUBSALE, BABEN - BADEN, opposite the Hotel dAvgleter re. 
 
 Small Svo., 3s. 6d. ESSENTIALS 
 
 FOR 
 
 liAM)BOOK-TKAYEL TALK TKAYELLING. 
 
 — English, French, German, JJ^®'?®^'^ J"^!.^ '^^£,^^ ^^,^'V . 
 
 Thresher's Kashmir Flannel Shirts. 
 
 and Italian, for the Use of Thresher's Kashmir Woollen Socks, 
 „ ,. , , , _, . Thresher's Coloured Flannel Shirts. 
 
 Englislimen abroad, or Foreigners Thresher's Travelling Bags. 
 
 in England. ' SOLD only by 
 
 j THRESHEI} & GLENXY, 
 
 I NEXT DOOR TO SOMERSET HOUSE 
 JOHN MURRAY; Albemarle Street. ■ STRAND 
 
1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Gl 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE BELLE YUE. 
 
 Proprietor, Mr, EDWARD DREMEL. 
 
 'PHIS magnificent Hotel, in offering to the Visitor every 
 kind of comfort and accommodationj has the great advantage of 
 being situated adjoining 
 
 THE PALACE OF THE KING3 
 
 and facing 
 THE PLACE ROYALE AND THE PARK, 
 
 It contains numerous large and small Apartments, as well as sino^le 
 Kooms. 
 
 TabJe^d*I{ote, richly served. Choice Wines, 
 SMOKING ROOM. 
 
 RE:ADIN0 R003I, with the best Belgian, English, French, 
 Oerman, and American Dailf Papers and Periodical. 
 
 Terraces, with Splendid View overlooking the Park. 
 
 ARRANGEMENTS MADE FOR THE WINTER. 
 
 Mr. Dremel, the new Proprietor of this Hotel, hopes to justify the 
 confidence placed in him, by a carefuiiy arranged system of prompt and 
 civil attendance, coTObined with moderate charges. 
 
62 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 '^FHE COMMITTEE of the CHURCH of ENGLAND 
 
 -*- EDUCATION SOCIETY earnestly appeal for increased funds to enable them 
 to continue the Society's operations. 
 
 Many of our Schools for the Poor are either absolutely dependent ujwn the 
 Society's grants, or would be crippled in their work without such aid. The same 
 may be said of many Pupil Teachers who have been enabled to complete their 
 course of training. 
 
 The Society aUo supplies Schools with ajl kinds of Registers and Stationery at 
 reduced prices. 
 
 The Society's means are far from adequate to the exigencies of the present time, 
 which ui-gently demand every possible effort to secure for an increasing population 
 a sound Protestant EDUCAXioisr. 
 
 F. MAUDE, R.N., Chairman. 
 REGINALD GUNNERY, Hon. Cler. Sec. 
 II, Adam Street, Adelphi, W.C. 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG. 
 
 HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE, 
 
 ST. ISAAC^S SQUARE, 
 
 {Gostinitrja AnglcUrrc, Issakofski Sabor.) 
 
 H. SOHMITZ, Proprietor, 
 ^FHIS new and well-conducted Hotel, situated in the centre 
 
 J- of the City, facing the St. Isaac's Church, near the Post-office, the Royal 
 Palaces and Public Buildings, affords large suites of well-furnished Apartments 
 ibr Families, and comfortable and airy Bedrooms for Single Gentlemen. A large 
 Dining-room where Dinners are served from Three till Seven o'Clock, fioni 
 one rouble and above. A well-furnished Reading-room. The ' Times,' and 
 other English, French, and German Newspapers. 
 
 HOT AND COLD BATHS, TUBS, AND SITTING BATHS. 
 
 Guides and Servants speaking English. 
 
 Omnibuses at the Stations, and Steamboats near Landing-places from Stockholm 
 
 and England. 
 
 THF. queen's messengers FREQUENT THIS HOTEL. 
 y.D. — Afisses Benaovs' Hotel vo longer exists. 
 
1871. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 68 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 EMLISCHEE HOP.— HOTEL 
 d'AlTGLETEEEE. 
 
 Proprietor— JEAN KEBEE. 
 
 I^HIS First-rate Establishment, very- 
 well recommended by the bf st class of 
 Travellers, is situated close to the Steamers' 
 Landing-place, and vis-a-vis the Railway Sta- 
 tions, on the loveliest position of the Lake, 
 with superb views of tlie Rigi, Pilatus, Alps, 
 and Glaciers; contains several Saloons, 62 
 comfortable Rooms, Smoking and Reading 
 Rooms, where are French and English news- 
 papers. 
 
 Charge for Rooms per diem, Ifr. 50c. 
 to 3fr. 
 Table d'Hote, at 1 • ■ • 3fr. 
 „ 4-30 . . 4fr. 
 „ 730 . . 3fr. 
 
 The ' Times,' ' Galignani' 'I'Indepen- 
 dance,' the ' Bund,' and other German, 
 French, and American papers are taken for 
 the Reading Room. 
 
 A PRACTICAL INTRODTJCTION 
 
 TO THI-: 
 
 NORWEGIAN LANGUAGE, 
 
 COSSISTISG OF 
 
 ( iRAMMAR AND EXERCISES FOR THP: 
 
 USE OF ENGLISH TRAVEl.LEKS 
 
 IN NORWAY. 
 
 BY 
 
 J. Y. SARGENT, M.A., 
 
 Felloio of Magdalen College, Oxford. 
 
 JMVINGTOXS. 
 
 ROTTERDAM. 
 
 H. A. KRAMEKS, 
 
 Importer of Foreig^n Books. 
 
 Mr. Mttbrat's ' Handbooks for Travellers, 
 Bradshaw's Monthly Railway Guides, Bae- 
 deker's ' Reischandbiicher,' and Hknp- 
 schel's ' Telegraph,' always in Stock. 
 
 English, French, and German Books im- 
 ported Weekly, and a great variety of New 
 Books kept in Store. 
 
 47, GELDERSCHE KADE. 
 
 N OTI C E. 
 
 mn, SON. A' CO. 
 
 ( L I :vl I T E D), 
 
 8, ROYAL EXCHANGE, 
 
 LONDON, E.G., 
 
 SUPPPLY 
 
 PASSPORTS 
 
 Within 24 Hours' Notice, to any part of 
 the Kingdom, on receipt of the necessary- 
 Banker's Eecommendation. 
 
 They have also a very complete Set of 
 
 MAPS 
 
 by Foreign Publishers and Governments, 
 
 AND 
 
 GUIDE BOOKS, 
 
 IN 
 
 to all parts of the Tourist World. 
 
 CATALOGUES ON APPLICATION. 
 
 LETTS, SON,& CO. 
 
 (LLMITED), 
 Agevfs for the Sale of the 
 
 ORDNANCE MAPS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 UNITED KINGDOM. 
 
64 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 187 1. 
 
 ESTABLISHED 183^. 
 
 THE ORIGINAL GUiDETTRAVELLERS' DEPOT, 
 
 AND 
 
 |Pa;s5p0rf ixn^ Couriers' g^gjeirnr, 
 
 LEE & CARTER, 
 
 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON 
 
 (HSTearly opposite the Charing Cross Hotel). 
 
 KNAPSACKS 
 
 STIFF OR LIMP. 
 
 PORTMANTEAUX 
 
 OF ALL PATTERNS. 
 
 BAGS 
 
 OF ALL KINDS. 
 
 Intending Tourists are respectfully invited to visit this EstahlisJimenf 
 before making purchases for their journey. 
 
 AN EXTENSIVE STOCK OF TRAVELLERS' REQUISITES TO SELECT FROM:- 
 
 Guide Books (in pocket bindings). 
 
 Maps and Plans of all Parts. 
 Foreign Dictionaries. 
 Dialogues and Grammars. 
 Polyglott Washing Books. 
 Journals and Diaries. 
 Pocket Books and Note Cases. 
 Purses, Sov. and Nap. Cases. 
 Money Belts and Bags. 
 Writing Cases and Blotters. 
 Ink Stands and Light Boxes. 
 Foreign Stationery. 
 Travelling Chess Boards, &c. 
 Knives, Scissors, & Corkscrews. 
 Barometers & Thermometers. 
 Field Glasses & Compasses. 
 Eye Preservers and Spectacles. 
 Railway Rugs and Straps. 
 
 Hat Cases and Bonnet Boxes. 
 Luggage Straps and Labels. 
 Travelling Lamps. 
 Camp Candlesticks. 
 Flasks and Drinking Cups. 
 Sandvrlch Cases. 
 Luncheon Baskets. 
 Dressing Cases & Housewives 
 Soap and Brush Boxes. 
 Sponge and Sponge Bags. ^ 
 Baths and Air Cushions. 
 Waterproofs & Foot Warmers. 
 Camp Stools and Leg Rests. 
 Portable Closet Seats. 
 Etnas for boiling water. 
 Combs, Brushes, and Mirrors. 
 Glycerine and Insect Powder. 
 Door Fasteners, &c., &c., &c. 
 
 iv0^ion : Printed by Wu-i-tAM Clo-vtes and Sons, Stamford S?re?t and (^baring Cross , 
 
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 
 BERKELEY 
 
 Return to desk from which borrowed. 
 This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. 
 
 OCT 1 51952 LU 
 
 REC'D LD 
 
 NOV 8 71-4PM0 6 
 
 LD 21-95to-11,'50(2877s16)476 
 
 
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