LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SANTA BARBARA PROM THE LIBRARY OF F. VON BOSCHAN (JGS8 LIBRARY ATTSTBIA--PJLAIE 1 . r>il>' June PICTURESQUE REPRESENTATIONS OP THE DRESS AND MANNERS OF THE AUSTRIANS. ILLUSTRATED IN FIFTY COLOURED ENGRAVINGS, WITH DESCRIPTIONS. LONDON: PRINTED FOR JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARUE-STREET, BY W. BULMER AND CO. CLEVELAND-ROW. 1814. INTRODUCTION. A Sketch of the History of the House of Austria and its Hereditary Dominions. the august families who are established on the different thrones of Europe, and whose origin is lost in the obscurity of remote ages, very few can trace their genealogy so far as the two Houses of Austria, who have filled, and continue to fill the Imperial throne of Ger- many. They both ascend to Etichon I. Duke of Alsace and Swabia, who died in the year 690, leaving two sons, Etichon II. Duke of Alsace, the undoubted stock of the House of Lorraine, and Adalbert I. who died in 723, and is generally acknowledged to be the head of the House of Hapsburg, the younger branch of that of Alsace. It took the name of Hapsburg in the eleventh century, after the death of Verner, Bishop of Strasburg, who in the year 1024 built the Castle of Hapsburg in the Argaw. This castle, with all the domains dependent upon it, forming the county of Hapsburg, he left to his nephew Verner the Pious. Verner I. Bishop of Strasburg, was grandson of Gontran the Rich, who in the year 939 was Count of Alsace, the Argaw, and Brisgaw. Gontran the Rich was son of Luitfroi V. Count of Upper Alsace, descending in the fifth degree from Adalbert I. son of Etichon. b 11 INTRODUCTION. Rodolphus I. Count of Hapsburg and of Kyburg, and Landgrave of Alsace, son of Albert the Wise^, being elected Emperor of Germany in 1273,, made war in 1276 on Premislaus Othogar, King of Bohemia, who had disputed his election. He completely defeated hi? army in a battle fought at Marschfeld near Vienna, \vhere the unfortunate Othogar was killed : but previous to this victory Rodolphus had seized the whole of Austria, and had compelled the King of Bohemia to renounce formally in a treaty, all his rights and pretensions to that Duchy, as well as to those of Stiria, Carinthia, and Carniola. However, it was not till the year 1282 that Rodolphus formed the design of establishing in his family the hereditary succession of the Duchy of Austria. Before he put it in execution, he began by securing the consent of the Electors, and took the necessary precautions for getting rid of all the competitors whose rights he could not dispute. Maynard, Count of Tyrol, who had espoused the sister and sole heiress of Frederick of Baden, Duke of Austria, obtained the Duchy of Carinthia and the Marches of Tarvis in consideration for his rights. A marriage was at the same time concluded between his daughter Elizabeth and Albert of Hapsburg, the Emperor's eldest son, and heir apparent to the Duke- dom of Austria ; and in the marriage contract it was stipulated that in default of issue male of the Duke Maynard, the Duchy of Carinthia and its dependencies should revert to the new House of Austria. As for the Margrave of Misnia, or Meissen, Henry the Illustrious, who had married the Princess Constance, sister of Frederick the Warlike, last Duke of Austria of the House of Bamberg, the Emperor engaged that he should have the imperial city of Muhlhausen in Thuringia; INTRODUCTION. Ill and confirmed him in the possession of the domainal province., commonly called the country of La Pleisse, which comprised the greater part of the present Princi- pality of Altenburg. Nothing remaining to oppose the success of his views, the Emperor applied to the Diet of Augsburg for its consent to confer the Duchies of Austria, Stiria, and Carniola, on his two sons Albert and Rodolphus, and obtained it unanimously. He accordingly invested the two princes with those Duchies with the greatest solemnity,, confirming to them the pri- vileges granted by his predecessors to the ancient dukes of Austria,, and regulating the mode of succession that was to take place with respect to his children., in the fiefs with which he invested them.* The Counts of Hapsburg, thus seized of the title to the Duchy of Austria, which they have ever since retained, assumed the name of it, and formed that second House of Austria, which has since, including Albert II., given thirteen Emperors successively to Germany, the male line terminating with the Emperor Charles VI. who died on the 20th of October, 1740. At this period it was that, after being distinct for more than ten centuries, the two august branches of the stock of Alsace, whose common ancestor was Etichem I. Duke of Alsace and Swabia, in the thirty-third degree, were united, and in future formed but one House, adding to the splendour of the Imperial throne the double lustre * Albert I. son of Rodolphus I. was crowned emperor on the 9th of August, 1298, and had, among other issue male, Albert II. sur- named the Wise, Duke of Austria, who married the heiress of the Count de Ferette, and died in 1358. From him the Hapsburg branch of the House of Austria is descended in a right line. IV INTRODUCTION. of their respective dignities,, and of their alliances with all the sovereign Houses of Europe. This union, which is the more remarkable from its being unexampled, was effected on the 12th of February, 1738, by the marriage of the Archduchess Maria-Theresa, only daughter and heiress of the Emperor Charles. VI. the last male des- cendant of the House of Austria, with Francis Stephen, Duke of Lorraine, Grand Duke of Tuscany, who accord- ingly afterwards became Emperor and head of the third House of Austria, now reigning. OF THE HEREDITARY STATES OF THE HOUSE OF AUSTRIA. THE different states hereditary in the House of Austria were acquired, some by marriages and gifts, and others in consequence of treaties or partitions. CASTLE AND COUNTY OF HAPSBURG. THE Castle and County of Hapsburg, that ancient pro- perty of the House of Austria, have been out of its possession ever since the year 1415, being lost on the following occasion. The famous contest of the three Popes, or Anti-popes, John XXIII. Martin V. and Benedict XIII. being laid before the Council of Constance, there appeared no other means of putting an end to the schism, than by re- quiring these three competitors to resign the Pontificate, in order that a new election might be made. John seemed disposed to submit to this decision, and declared his intention by a bull ; but a few days after, he made his escape from Constance through the assistance of INTRODUCTION. V Frederick., Duke of Austria, Count of Tyrol, and retiring to Schaffau.scn, solemnly protested against all that the Council had decreed, or should decree against him. Nothing more was wanting to determine the Council of Constance to excommunicate the Duke of Austria, as guilty of favouring the escape of John. The Emperor Sigismund laid him under the ban of the empire for the same reason ; and not satisfied with seizing all his estates in Swabia, Alsace, and the Brisgaw, compelled the Swiss, on pain of excommunication, to infringe the peace which they had just concluded with him. Terrified at this menace, the Bernese took up arms, and seized upon the Argaw, and the counties of Lentzburg and Haps- burg, while the other Cantons, on their part, deprived the House of Austria of the rest of its possessions in Switzerland. Frederick was obliged to have recourse to the clemency of Sigismund, and by his submission recovered most of his states in Germany ; but the Swiss retained their conquests, which the Emperor Sigismund confirmed to them by the treaty of a perpetual mortgage concluded at Aarberg, on the 24th of July, 1415. Since that period, the property and possession of the County of Hapsburg have always remained vested in the Canton of Berne. The ruins of the ancient castle, built in 1024_, on a hill near the little town of Brugg, and a league from Lentzburg, are yet to be seen. From an accurate admeasurement of them, and of the hill on which they are situated, Mr. Meyer of Araw has had a model of them executed in plaster, on a scale of suffi- cient dimension to give a perfect view of all that remains of them. This work has been presented to his Imperial Majesty, who it is said, purposes to have a hill raised in the gardens of Laxemburg, and a ruin built upon it from the model. Tl INTRODUCTION. OF THE CIRCLE OF AUSTRIA. THE Circle of Austria is composed of Lower Austria, of which Vienna is the capital, and which forms the Arch- duchy of that name ; of Interior Austria, which com- prises the Duchies of Stiria, Carinthia, Carniola, and part of Istria ; of Upper Austria ; of the County of Tyrol ; and of Austrian Swabia, of which the Brisgaw makes a part. How and under what circumstances these different states were acquired by the House of Austria has been already seen. Austria is the most southern part of Germany. It is bounded by Bohemia., Hungary, Italy, Switzerland, and Bavaria. Though mountainous, the soil is fertile, the country producing a great quantity of corn and wine, and abounding in wood, and particularly in pastures. It contains mines of iron, copper, gold, silver, and quick- silver. Austria was formerly intirely inhabited by Sclavonians ; Charlemagne reduced a great part of it under his dominion, and made the inhabitants embrace Christianity. He founded likewise the Margraviate of Austria, which was erected into a Duchy in the year 1156, in favour of Henry Jasomergot, Margrave of Austria of the House of Bamberg, and into an Arch- duchy in the year 1477, when the Dukes had united in their hands the whole of the Duchy and Circle of Austria. The Austrian families of the different classes of the people are almost all descendants of the Slavonians, or of the Vandals ; and the nobility are of German ex- traction. To the care and attention of the government, the Circle of Austria is indebted for the progress which INTRODUCTION. Vll the arts, sciences,, commerce, and manufactures, are daily making there. The Roman Catholic is the esta- blished religion of these different states, but Greeks, Protestants, and Jews, are tolerated. The number of the inhabitants in the Circle of Austria is about 4,11)0,000. OF THE KINGDOM OF HUNGARY. THE kingdom of Hungary is about 300 miles long and 200 broad, containing 87,575 square miles. It is bounded on the north by Poland, on the west by Germany, and on the east and south by Turkey, in Europe. It com- prises at present three great provinces, Hungary, pro- perly so called, Transylvania, and Sclavonia. Hungary, properly so called, was originally part of the ancient Pannonia. Towards the middle of the third century, the Huns, a Tartarian nation, originally from China, driven by the Chinese from their own country, conquered Hungary, and establishing themselves in it, gave it their name, which it has ever since retained. They were driven out by the Goths, the Goths by the Lombards, the Lombards by the Abares, and these by the Sclavonians, who maintained themselves in it till about the end of the ninth century, when they were reduced by an armed horde from the banks of the Wolga, who made themselves masters of Hungary, and estab- lished themselves in it. It was not till the close of the tenth century that Hungary became an Elective monarchy ; and Stephen, who was canonized at his death, is the first king of it mentioned in history. He died without issue, in the year 1045. The succession was disputed by Peter of Vlll INTRODUCTION. Burgundy, the son of his sister Gisele, and an Hun- garian named Offo, husband of Sama, another sister of St. Stephen. The Hungarians supported Offo,, but the Emperor Henry III. declared for his competitor, van- quished the troops of Offo, and placed Peter of Burgundy on the throne, after having made him take an oath of fealty and vassalage, by which the kingdom of Hungary became a tributary fief of the Empire. After a reign of three years, Peter of Burgundy was dethroned, and put to death by his subjects, whom he had governed with a sceptre of iron. In his place they elected Andrew I, nephew, (according to the custom of Bretagne,) to the late King Stephen. The Emperor was preparing to revenge his vassal, but the new king averted the storm that threatened him by acknowledging his dependence on the Empire and paying the tribute to which his predecessor had submitted. The Hungarians having in the year 1 108 succeeded in throwing off the sovereignty of the Empire, Conrad III. again subjected them to it in 1147. They once more enfranchised themselves during the reigns of the Emperors Henry VI. Philip, and Otto IV. ; but in the year 1236 the Emperor Frederick II. compelled Bela King of Hungary, to pay him the tribute and all the arrears of the three preceding reigns. Charles Robert, elected to the throne of Hungary, conquered Bulgaria, Servia, Croatia, Dalmatia, Scla- vonia, and several other provinces in the year 1310 ; but he did not retain all these conquests, being soon after deprived of some of them by the Venetians, and by the Turks. Louis the Great, King of Hungary, Bohemia, and Poland, dying in the year 1382 without male issue, his INTRODUCTION. IX eldest daughter, Maria, succeeded to the throne of Hungary, and shared it with Sigismund, Elector of Brandenburg, to whom she was married in 1386, and who in 1410 was elected Emperor. Their only child was a daughter, named Elizabeth, who inherited the kingdoms of Hungary and Bohemia, and transferred them in 1422 to the House of Austria, by her marriage with Du ke Albert II. The States of these kingdoms not being willing to seem to recognize the last will of Si- gismund, declared the tw o thrones vacant, and proceeded to elect a new king. The election however was entirely conformable to the dispositions of the will : Albert II. was elected King of Hungary on the 19th of December 1437, and King of Bohemia in the month of May following. Louis II. King of Hungary and Bohemia, dying in the year 1526 without issue, the succession to the thrones of Hungary and Bohemia devolved on Ferdinand, Arch- duke of Austria, by virtue of his marriage contract with Anne, sister and sole heiress of Louis II. and, by several prior compacts, which secured it to the House of Austria. Ferdinand was elected without opposition King of Bohemia, by the States of that Kingdom ; but not so in Hungary, where he was only elected by one part of the nation, while the other part elected John de Zapoli, Palatine of Transylvania, whom they caused to be crowned. The Archduke Ferdinand, however, soon made himself master of the whole kingdom, defeating his competitor at the battle of Tokay. Zapoli fled to Poland, and placed himself and his party under the protection of the Porte. This desperate action laid Hungary open to the Turks, who made themselves masters of it almost entirely, and penetrated to the very X INTRODUCTION. frontiers of Germany. The cause of Hungary now became that of the whole Empire. For more than a century the Emperor convoked Diets only to ask for succours against the Turks. The Emperor Leopold I. sent against them a considerable force, furnished by the Germanic Body,, and \vith which the Duke of Lorraine and the Elector of Bavaria gained a complete victory on the 12th August, 1687, at the battle of Mohacz, and made themselves masters of all Sclavonia. Leopold took advantage of so favourable a circum- stance, to propose to the States of Hungary assembled at Presburg, to unite and incorporate with the kingdom all the countries taken by his army from the Turks, to con- firm the ancient privileges of the nation, and to grant to the Protestants the free exercise of their religion, on condition of their consenting, 1st, to annul the law of King Andrew II. by which they were permitted to de- pose kings who violated the rights of the States ; 2dly, to make the crown of Hungary hereditary in the male line of the House of Austria ; and 3dly, to receive imperial garrisons in all the fortified towns of the kingdom. These proposals were agreed to unanimously on the 31st of October, 1687. The treaty of Carlowitz, signed on the 26th of January, 1699, between Leopold and the Ottoman Porte, put an end to the war with the Turks. Hungary on this side of the Save, Transylvania, and Sclavonia, were retained by the Emperor ; Temeswar and Hungary beyond the Save were ceded to the Turks ; but they broke the treaty of Carlowitz in 1714, and renewed the war. They were completely defeated at the battle of Peter- Wardein, on the 5th of August, 1716, by Prince Eugene of Savoy, who on the 14th of October following took the fortress INTRODUCTION. XI of Temeswar, which was the only one of all the ancient dependencies of the kingdom of Hungary remaining in the hands of the Turks. By the peace of Passarowitz, concluded on the 21st of July, 1718., between the Ottomans and the Emperor,, on the footing of the uti possidetis, Temeswar., with the whole of its bannat, and a part of Wallachia, was con- firmed to the Emperor ; and the Porte also ceded to him the city of Belgrade., a great part of the kingdom of Servia, and a small portion of Croatia and Bosnia. But on the peace of Belgrade,, concluded on the 18th of September, 1739., the Emperor relinquished to the Porte the important city of Belgrade, and most of the territory it had given up to him, but retained the bannat of Temeswar, which the Empress Maria-Theresa finally incorporated with the Kingdom of Hungary, by an edict in the year 1777. By the treaty of Belgrade it was also settled, that the Danube and the Save should in future be the boundary of Hungary on the side of Turkey. Thus, after a war almost constant for nearly two centuries, the Kingdom of Hungary, become hereditary, owes to this improvement of its constitution not only the tranquillity it has since enjoyed, but the happy flourish- ing state to which it has risen, and of which the Hungarians have always shown themselves worthy, by the signal proofs which they have given of their attach- ment and fidelity to their sovereigns. The number of inhabitants in Hungary is estimated at 4,991,775, at the rate of fifty-seven to each square mile ; and that of the bannat of Temeswar to 450,000. Xll INTRODUCTION. OF THE KINGDOM OF BOHEMIA. BOHEMIA is about 478 miles long, and 322 broad ; it is bounded on the north by Saxony and Brandenburg, on the east by Poland and Hungary, on the south by Austria and Bavaria, and on the west by the Palatinate of Bavaria. The kingdom of Bohemia is one of the most ancient monarchies of Europe ;* it consists of Bohemia Proper, Moravia, and Silesia. A great part of Silesia belongs to the King of Prussia, by virtue of the treaty of Breslaw of the llth of June, 1742, the Queen of Hungary's act of Renunciation of the 12th of August, 1743, and the treaty of Dresden of the 25th of December, 1745. The House of Austria now possesses in it only the Principality of Teschen with the eight Seigneuries dependant upon it, and the barrier towns to the east of the river Oppa, which divides the possessions of the King of Prussia from those of the House of Austria, to whom Bohemia Proper, and Moravia, entirely belong. The Boii, a Celtic nation, seem to have been the first inhabitants of Bohemia. They were driven out of it by the Marcomanni, and it afterwards became a province of the monarchy of the Eastern Goths, Lombards, Thurin- gians, and Franks. It was invaded, and considerable establishments formed in it, in the fifth century, by dif- ferent colonies of Slavi and Wends, who came from Sarmatia. In 804 it was conquered by Charlemagne and in 890 became a fief of the Carlo vingian Emperors under the title of Duchy. * History makes mention of Maraboduus, King of Bohemia, who lived at the end of the fourth century, and by his misunderstanding with Arminius, Chief of the Cheruskians, infinitely favoured the progress of the Roman armies in Germany. INTRODUCTION. Xlll The Dukes of Bohemia submitted to the Emperors of Germany in the year 976 ; and one., named Ladislaus, obtained from them in 1158 the title of king, the per- mission of wearing the royal crown., and the perpetual enjoyment of the tribute paid by the Princes of Poland and Silesia to the imperial throne. But the title of king was granted to him., and afterwards to his successors, only for life, nor did it become hereditary in Bohemia till the year 1203, when it was made so by a diploma of the Emperor Philip. This kingdom became at the same period one of the States of the Empire, and the King of Bohemia has ever since been the first secular elector of it ; on which account he is by right invested with the high office of Grand Cup-bearer, the chief of the great offices of the imperial crown. . Wenceslaus V. King of Bohemia, dying in 1304 without issue, the Emperor Albert I. declared the king- dom open to the disposal of the Empire, and bestowed it on his son Rodolphus Duke of Austria, who enjoyed it but a very short time, and at his death the States con- ferred it on Henry, Duke of Carinthia. In 1309 the Emperor Henry VII. deposed the new king, after pro- claiming him a rebel for usurping the crown of Bohemia without the Imperial authority ; and the kingdom was declared at the same time again open to the disposal of the Germanic crown, save and except the rights of the Princess Elizabeth, daughter of the deceased King of Bohemia, Wenceslaus IV. John of Luxemburg, the Emperor's only son, espoused the Princess, and was immediately after his marriage crowned King of Bohemia. He was killed in 1346 at the battle of Crecy, and was succeeded in the throne of Bohemia by his son Charles IV. who the year following was elected Emperor. XIV INTRODUCTION. Bohemia under his reign, rose to the highest degree of improvement she had ever attained. By letters patent, issued in 1355,, he confirmed the rights, privileges, pre- rogatives, laws, and constitution of the kingdom, with which he incorporated the States he had gained from the Elector Palatine, Upper Lusatia, the sovereignty of Upper and Lower Silesia, the County of Glatz, and the sovereignty of the Duchies of Masovia and Ploczko. The throne of Bohemia, which had been thrice before occupied by Princes of the family of Austria,* was at length finally settled in that House on the death of Louis II. of Poland, king of Bohemia and Hungary, who was killed in the year 1526 at the battle of Mohacz. The Princess Anne, his sister and sole heiress, had married the Archduke Ferdinand I. in 1521. The states of Bohemia hastened by their election to acknowledge and confirm the title he had to the kingdom in right of his wife, and without the least obstacle bestowed the crown upon him. Ferdinand manifested his satisfaction by confirming their right of election, and other privileges. The kingdom of Bohemia, hereditary in fact, for nearly 300 years, at length became hereditary by right, in the House of Austria, in consequence of the treaty of Westphalia, and the clear and express consent given by the States-General of the kingdom in the year 1723 to the Pragmatic Sanction of Charles VI. April 13, 1713, which regulated the Austrian succession according to the order of primogeniture, first in the male line, and in failure of that, in the female ; establishing the succes- sion, in default of his own issue, on the Archduchesses, daughters of the Emperor Joseph, and in case of their * Rodolphus of Austria, son of the Emperor Albert I. The Em- peror Albert II. Ladislaus IV. son of Albert II. INTRODUCTION XV death without issue, on the Queen of Portugal., and the other daughters of the Emperor Leopold,, and their heirs for ever. The right of election, formerly exercised to its full extent by the States of Bohemia, and of which they were so jealous, is thus sunk into an empty ceremony, which puts them in mind that they are no longer what they were. They have an ample compensation, however, in seeing their country delivered for ever from intestine dissensions, by which it was torn to pieces for so many- centuries. Let the great Bohemian lords add to this blessing a favour which humanity itself solicits ; let them attend to their real interest, of which the wisdom of Joseph II. set them the example; let them abolish the bondage of their vassals, as his Imperial Majesty abolished that which prevailed in his own domains ; and Bohemia regenerated, will soon resume her rank among the most flourishing states. The country produces a great abundance of corn, saffron, and hops, and abounds in pastures ; it has silver, lead, and tin mines ; and manufactures, which, from the attention and encourage- ment of the government are daily improving. The infranchisement of the serfs would multiply these re- sources, and produce new ones from them, by giving to the industry of the Bohemians the full expansion of which it is capable. Bohemia has been the seat of so many wars, that the number of its inhabitants, which was formerly about 3,000,000, is at present reduced to 2,100,000, of whom nearly 25,000 are Calvinists and 9,000 Lutherans ; the rest are Roman Catholics. LIST OF THE PLATES. PLATE * -A. PEASANT of Upper Austria. 2. A Countrywoman of Upper Austria. 3. A Village Girl of Upper Austria carrying Milk to Market. 4. A Peasant of Upper Carniola. 5. A Peasant of Upper Carniola in his Summer Dress. 6. A Countrywoman of Upper Carniola in her Summer Dress. 7. A Country Girl of Upper Carniola in her Holiday Clothes. 8. A Peasant of Upper Carniola in his Winter Dress. 9. A Countrywoman of Upper Carniola in her Winter Dress. 10. A Tyrolian Wrestler. 11. A Tyrolian Hunter. 1 2. A Servant Maid of an Inn at Inspruck. 13. Peasants of the Neighbourhood of Inspruck. 14. A Hungarian Peasant. 15. A Hungarian Countrywoman. 16. A Sclavonian Peasant of the County of Neutra, or Neytra. 17- A Sclavonian Country Girl, of the County of Neutra. 18. A Young Peasant of Egra in his Winter Clothes. 19. A Woman and Girl of Egra in their Winter Clothes. 20. A Young Bride of Egra in her Wedding Clothes. 21. Peasants of Egra in their Summer Clothes. 22. A Bohemian Serf. 23. A Bohemian Woman. 24. A Peasant of Flipovan, in the Bukowine. 25. A Countrywoman of Flipovan, in the Bukowine. 26. Countrywomen of the Neighbourhood of Hermenstadt, in Transylvania. 27. A Peasant of the Neighbourhood of Hermenstadt, in Tran- sylvania. 28. Saxon Ladies of the City of Hermenstadt. 29. Citizens of the Environs of Hermenstadt. 30. Croatian Women. LIST OF THE PLATES. PLATE 31. A Polish Jew. 32. A Polish Jewess. 33. A Jew of Montgatz in his Summer Dress. 34. A Zouppanese Count, of the Country of Cattaro, in Dalmatia. 35. A Zouppanese Countess. 36. A Zouppanese and his Wife. 37. A Man and Woman of Risano, in the Country of Cattaro. 38. A Greek Priest of the Country of Cattaro. 39. A Serethian. 40. A Pandour, or Red Mantle. 41. A Moravian Mountaineer, near the Confines of Hungary. 42. A Countrywoman of the Mountains of Moravia. 43. A Peasant of the Lowlands of Moravia in his Summer Dress. 44. A Countrywoman of the Lowlands of Moravia in her Summer Dress. 45. An Inhabitant of the Lowlands of Moravia in his Winter Chothes. 46. A Countrywoman of the Lowlands of Moravia in her Winter Dress. 47. An Hannachian Woman. 48. A Russniac Peasant of the Palatinate of Marmoros. 49. A Russniac Woman of the Palatinate of Marmoros. 50. A Blacksmith of Upper Austria. PLATE I. A PEASANT OF UPPER AUSTRIA. AUSTRIA, properly so called, independently of the duchies, counties, and bishoprics annexed to it, is divided into Upper and Lower Austria by the river Ens, which falls into the Danube. Lower Austria is to the east of the Upper : Vienna is the capital of the former, and Lintz of the latter. Austria exceeds all the other provinces of Germany in the fertility of its soil, the abundance of its pastures, salubrity of climate, and beauty of the country. Corn, wine, and fruit, are every where plentiful ; the saffron is superior to that of India. The manufactures of iron and steel, the navigation of the great lakes and of the Danube, husbandry, the working of the mines and salt-pits, and a multitude of immense forests, furnish the different classes of people with employment. The assistance needed by the poor and infirm is supplied by the numerous rich monasteries or ecclesiastical endowments throughout the country. The usual dress of the Austrian peasants is represented in this Plate. Their outer garment is a very short dark- gray jacket, which has clasps or loops, that are never used but in cold weather. Under this jacket they wear a red waistcoat still shorter, on which are metal buttons of a spherical form, and beneath the waistcoat they have braces of a green stuff, to which is fastened a collar of the same colour, that falls over their shoulders. These braces are secured on the breast by a band of the same stuff, and at the ends by a large leather belt wrought with figures. A PEASANT OF UPPER AUSTRIA. Their breeches arc made of black leather, and they -wear buskins or half boots that set very close. They wear round hats., shallow in the crown, but very broad in the brim. AtTSTRJA-PAATJE '2 , PLATE II. A COUNTRY WOMAN OF UPPER AUSTRIA. NATURE., lavish of all her riches towards the inhabitants of this happy country,, has also gifted them with the industry necessary to render those riches truly valuable. The woollen stuffs which the women wear are all manufactured by themselves,, and are for that reason called household- stuffs (hauszeugj. They spin the flax from which their head and neck-handkerchiefs are made, and these they dye., either red or yellow wkh saffron. They make choice of the darkest colours for their petticoats and bodices, which are usually of the same stuff, and sometimes bound with blue or green riband. Their bodices are buttoned before with silver buttons. Their head-dress is merely a coloured handkerchief, over which they wear a gray felt hat bound with riband, and tied under the chin with one of the same colour as that with which it is bound. When they take off this hat they tie it round their arm ; because, from the great size of it, they would be afraid of rumpling it, were they to hold it in any other way. AUSTRIA -= PLATE PLATE III. A VILLAGE GIRL OF UPPER AUSTRIA CARRYING MILK TO MARKET. IN comparing this Plate with the last, we perceive the difference between the apparel of the countrywomen who live in villages,, and of those who reside in the country towns. In the latter there is a degree of elegance not possessed by the former,, though the make, stuff, and colour of the cloaths are the same. The bodice of the villager is larger, and her arms have therefore more liberty ; but her shape is consequently much less graceful ; her head-dress too is much coarser, and her short petticoats render the difference more striking. There are countries where very few of the women have handsome ankles and feet,, and where,, of course, long petticoats are always the fashion ; but short petticoats are common to the country- women of all nations, by whom they have been adopted, not through vanity or coquetry, but because long ones would be very inconvenient to them in walking and working. The inhabitants of Upper Austria are brave, laborious, industrious, polished, intelligent, and agreeable in their persons. The air of ease and gaiety observed in all classes of people indicates their happiness, and the wisdom of the government. AUSTRIA PLATE 4 . PLATE IV. A PEASANT OF UPPER CARNIOLA. WE must not confound Austria, properly so called, with the Circle of Austria, which holds the first rank among the Circles of the Empire, nor with the States of the House of Austria. The Emperor Rodolphus, who, from being Count of Hapsburg, attained the Imperial throne, seized Austria from Othogar, King of Bohemia, and laid the foundation of the grandeur of that illustrious House In 1477, the Emperor Frederic III. erected Austria into an archduchy, with great privileges, in favour of his son. The Circle of Austria contains, from north to south, the Archduchy of Austria, the Duchies of Stiria, Carinthia, and Carniola, and to the south-west, the County of Tyrol. The province of Carniola is bounded on the north by Carinthia and Stiria, on the east by Sclavonia and Croatia, on the south by Morlachia and Istria, and on the west by Friuli. It is chiefly mountainous and rocky. Corn, wine, and oil, are its principal productions. Laybach is the capital, where there are some handsome houses ; the town stands on a little river, from which it took its name, and where the largest craw-fish in Europe are caught. This Plate represents a young peasant of Upper Carniola, in his shirt, resting himself on a rock overgrown with grass. His hat and boots differ very little from those of the peasants of Upper Austria. PLATE PLATE V. A' PEASANT OF UPPER CARNIOLA IN HIS SUMMER DRESS. UPPER Carniola being situated between the 45th and 46th degrees of latitude, its summers must be warm ; this may be seen from the manner in which the peasants dress them- selves during that season. The figure in the last Plate has nothing over his shirt but a belt of coloured woollen stuff, tied above his braces, which are exactly like those men- tioned in the description of Plate I. When the peasants go on a journey they wear over their shirt a kind of light stuff frock, of a brown colour, the lining of which is of a different and more lively hue ; but they only throw it on their shoulders, without putting their arms into the sleeves, as we see in this Plate. Their tight buskins are thrown aside for common boots ; they carry a stick which termi- nates in the shape of a little club, and which they hold by the small end. AUSTRIA - jp^ATK 6 tyJJIIurriy JHmai-U Strut.. PLATE VI. A COUNTRY WOMAN OF UPPER CARNIOLA IN HER SUMMER DRESS. A PIECE of cloth, which might be taken for a common towel, is doubled crossways and tied about her head, serving her for a cap. Her shift is fastened round her neck by means of a little collar with a button-hole on each side, through which she puts a double button, such as men wear in their shirt sleeves. With this shift, the sleeves of which reach below the elbow, she wears a single, black petticoat with a binding of green stuff, a blue apron, and a gray linen bodice, with two rows of yellow binding, laced before with a coloured riband. If there be nothing extraordinary in her head-dress, the same cannot be said of her shoes and stockings, which are rendered very remark- able by the red heels of the former, and by the latter being of the same colour. ?lrf I -FJLATE 7, ./ l.WJ.tyJ.JJurrav JltanarU Jtraf . PLATE VII. A COUNTRY GIRL OF UPPER CARNIOLA IN HER HOLIDAY CLOTHES. THE best clothes of the women of Upper Carniola differ very little from their ordinary dress. The stuff of them is finer, but the make and colours are the same, except the girdle, which, as well as the bodice, is of the colour of the petticoat, and spotted with yellow. Their shift likewise is much more elegant ; it is closed over the bosom with three bows of riband of different colours, and trimmed with muslin, both round the neck and at the sleeves, which reach down to the wrists, where they are tied with a riband. But their head-dress is the most remarkable part of their attire ; the crown of the cap being of coloured silk, to which is fastened a silken band of a different colour, two inches wide, trimmed all round with worked muslin, or common lace. The band covers the top of the head, and falls over on each side as low as the middle of the ear. The cap is ornamented behind with a large bow of coloured ribands. \ AUSTRIA PLATE ,W.r. 4v PLATE VIII. A PEASANT OF UPPER CARNIOLA IN HIS WINTER DRESS. THE winter does not last long in Upper Carniola., but the cold is often very piercing, especially on the mountains. The peasants who live there very seldom go abroad without their woollen cap, over which they wear their hat; or without their furred cloaks,, under which they cross their hands, which,, however, does not prevent them from smoking their short pipe as they go along. PLATE IX. A COUNTRYWOMAN OF UPPER CARNIOLA IN HER WINTER DRESS. THE dress of the country women of Upper Carniola, during the winter, very much resembles that worn by their husbands. They wear boots like them, and wrap them- selves up in a pelisse lined and trimmed with fur exactly like theirs. Besides this, they have a little muff, made of black cloth, lined with sheep skin, in which they keep their hands. But the most remarkable difference between their dress and that of the men appears in their head-dress : they wear a green cloth cap, faced with a great roll of fur : on the top of the cap they have a large white handkerchief, which also covers their shoulders, and is tied in a knot under the chin. AUSTRIA ELA3TE -no. .ISO, by J3fuma/ r JO> PLATE XXIII. A BOHEMIAN WOMAN. IN French the appellation of Bohemian is not only applied to the inhabitants of Bohemia, but to Gypsies, a kind of well known vagabonds dispersed through almost all the countries of Europe, over which they travel in small gangs, telling fortunes, and dexterously pilfering whatever they can lay their hands upon. They are called Gypsies or Egyptians, from being supposed to be the descendants of the ancient vagabonds of Egypt, who were driven out of that country by the Emperor Selim, in the beginning of the sixteenth century, when he subdued it. They emi- grated to Asia, and to Europe, and particularly spread themselves in Germany. Many of them are met with in Bohemia, and in the Bannat of Temeswar. It is said that several points of resemblance to the ancient Egyptians are still to be traced in their character, in their manners and customs, and even in their face. This wandering woman, leading a naked child, and who herself has only a sorry shift, may possibly not be of the gypsy tribe, but from her dishevelled hair, wild looks, and beggarly dress, with so handsome a face, it is not difficult to guess her profession. AUSTBIA. PXATE 24, PLATE XXIV. A PEASANT OF FLIPOVAN, IN THE BUKOWINE. THE Bukowine is a considerable district surrounded by Moldavia,, Transylvania., and Poland. Czernowitz and Soczowa are the principal towns of it. It is scarce more than twenty-five years since it was ceded by the Turk to the House of Austria. The inhabitants of the immense forests which cover this mountainous country, are solely occupied in the care of their cattle., and particularly of their horses. They are Christians of the Greek church. The purity of their manners,, their sobriety, and the simplicity of their mode of life, bring to mind ideas of the ancient patriarchs, and in fact they live to a very advanced age. They dress very like the Turks. The large, black, sheep-skin bonnet, on the head of the old man represented in this Plate, forms a contrast with the whiteness of his flowing locks and of his long beard, and renders it more striking. The long sur- tout of white cloth which he has on, is bordered round the collar with a little band of red cloth, is fastened from top to bottom with clasps, and drawn tight round the middle of the body by a red woollen girdle. The lower part of his dress consists of long, wide pantaloons, and Roman sandals, made of a wooden sole laced by red ribands crossed on the foot, and tied round the leg. AUSTBIA JKLATE 26, PLATE XXV. A COUNTRYWOMAN OF FLIPOVAN, IN THE BUKOWINE. THE women of Flipovan dress much in the same manner as the men ; their sandals are exactly alike ; their surtout is likewise of the same shape, but hangs looser round the body., as they wear no girdle, and instead of being white is always of a very dark colour. Their head-dress is the most remarkable part of their attire; it is composed of two handsome Turkey muslin handkerchiefs, the one white, and the other brown, spotted with different colours. Lightly twisted or puffed on the head, the white one falls over the shoulders like a nun's veil, the two front corners cross on the neck and tie behind the coloured handker- chief, which binds the forehead and goes round the head in form of a bandeau, as we see in this Plate, which re- presents a very pretty country girl of Flipovan counting her eggs. AUSTRIA - PLATE 26. JH-an,irl,-.S1rt. PLATE XXVI. COUNTRYWOMEN OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF HERMENSTADT, IN TRANSYLVANIA. HERMENSTADT, the capital of Transylvania, is a large handsome city., situated at the foot of the great mountains of Foharras, on the river Szeben, whence it is also called Szebeny, and the country Siebenburgen. The town is not very strongly fortified, but is well peopled. The Transyl- vanians are generally tall and well made ; the waists of the women are rather large, but they are not the less hand- some for it, and even among the countrywomen there are many who have a superior and very engaging countenance, as we may judge from those represented in this Plate, in which we may also observe the taste and refinement they display in their dress. They carefully comb their hair, which they plait into tresses, or cut round : their head- dress consists of a sort of cap, black or white, on which they skilfully arrange a white handkerchief that has a narrow red border, and which falls on their shoulders, leaving their neck, face, and the front of their cap to be seen ; they sometimes tie the handkerchief round their head. They wear a large shift, embroidered red or blue at the bosom, with sleeves having a border of the same colour. The shift is made fast round the waist by a leathern girdle, which at the same time serves to secure, before and behind, two long narrow aprons of stuff, striped or spotted with different colours, trimmed at the bottom with a deep fringe. On holidays they add to their dress COUNTRYWOMEN OF HERMENSTADT. ear-rings and necklaces of coral or mock pearl. They sometimes wear sandals, and sometimes half-boots with flat heels., bound with iron. They make their own clothes. as well as those of their husbands and children. AUSTRIA PILATE 27, 1813 ty J Murray JltcmafU PLATE XXVII. A PEASANT OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF HERMENSTADT, IN TRANSYLVANIA. THE mountains of Siebenburgen, in the neighbourhood of Hermenstadt, are inhabited by Walachians, who may be considered as the least advanced of all the European nations in civilization : without activity, without industry, they carelessly pass their life in tending their flocks ; the least indolent among them become carters, or go and tan leather in the Talmat; very few of them cultivate the ground, and those who take the trouble, do it only to pro- cure the absolute necessaries of life. They are suspicious and revengeful, and hate every other nation. In conse- quence of their bad education and their sloth they are addicted to drunkenness, and the lowest propensities. They suffer their beards to grow long as well as their hair, which they never either comb or tie. They wear a coarse shirt which they fasten round their loins with a leathern belt, on which there are several buttons, and in which they always carry their knife and fork, steel for striking a light, &c. They have long pantaloons and small sandals, which are fastened with several thongs. In winter they wear a fur cap, and in summer a round felt hat. V>..X'?> :&MV^ . ' v [JST RI A- JP.L ATE PLATE XXVIII. SAXON LADIES OF THE CITY OF HERMENSTADT. THE city of Hermenstadt is almost entirely inhabited by Saxons, most of whom are Lutherans. The women are generally handsome, tall, and well made. The complexion of the fair ones is a mixture of lilies and roses ; they have fine large blue eyes, and a skin of a brilliant white. The cheeks of the brunettes are tinged with a livelier red, their black eyes are likewise more sparkling, and their counte- nance is full of expression ; but both fair and brown are alike distinguished for that bloom, that appearance of health, of modesty, and innocence, which gives an irresis- tible charm to beauty. The ancient Saxon dress, exactly represented in the apparel of the fair lady in this Plate, is no longer worn but at solemn festivals and on great occasions ; new fashions supplant it, but seldom equal the graces they supersede : for, does not that fine light hair, parted into several tresses, some falling on the back, and others intwined with ribands rolled round the head; does not that long veil, secured by elegant pins, and forming the hind part of the head-dress, render it more agreeable and more distinguished than that of the handsome brunette, which has the merit of being more fashionable, and which consists of a black velvet cap trimmed with black lace ? And is not there a dignity, a nobleness in that ancient black velvet gown, enriched with clasps and a cestus of precious stones, sufficient to make us overlook its want of the grace of the light gowns introduced by fashion ? .AUSTRIA MATE 29. '' Jlmrt.uia. Ac JMltn.ir. .1lhfjn,irl,- .'trtrt PLATE XXIX. CITIZENS OF THE ENVIRONS OF . HERMENSTADT. AMONG the inhabitants of Hermenstadt and the neighbour- ing places., the Saxons have always been remarked for the ease they enjoy,, which they owe to their industry and sobriety; their houses are the cleanest and best built, and the districts where they reside have always a more smiling aspect than the other parts of the country. The Saxons are generally tall, and more commonly fair than brown ; they have a high forehead, large blue eyes, and an open cheerful countenance. Their apparel is a mixture of the ancient German costume and the Hungarian dress, and every village varies in a manner peculiar to itself. The pelisse of the citizens is longer than that worn in the country ; at Hermenstadt it is lined with fox-skin, reaches down to the calf of the leg, and has the seams ornamented with embroidery, and gold or silver loops. Their jacket, pantaloons, and half boots, are in the Hungarian fashion. The woman represented in this Plate wears on her head, like all old women, a cap bordered with fur. The kind of close jacket she wears is also bordered and lined with skin, as well as the short cloak she throws over her shoulders., the large high collar of which is bordered with sable. In the coldest weather she puts her arms into the sleeves of this cloak, which may likewise be buttoned. AUSTRIA.- PLATE Landcn Pu*?JuntlJ81S Iry JJIfurray PLATE XXX. CROATIAN WOMEN. CROATIA is a province of Hungary, bounded on the north by Sclav onia, on the east by Bosnia, on the west by Carniola, and on the south by Dalmatia and the Gulf of Venice ; it does not all belong to the House of Austria, a small part of the country being under the Turkish do- minion. The government, language, religion, manners, and customs of the Croats, are much the same as those of their neighbours the Transylvanians and Sclavonians. They are in general good soldiers, and there are a great many of them in the Emperor's light troops, particularly in the regiments of Pandours. Their women are neither deficient in beauty, nor in taste for dress, as we may see by those represented in this Plate, from which we may also observe that they have not a fixed mode, and that the only uniformity in their apparel is that of their apron, which is always long and oval, made of a stuff of different coloured stripes, and trimmed with a deep red fringe. The shape of their gowns is not the same : the one displays her hair and wears sandals, the other wears red stockings and yellow shoes, and her head-dress is composed of a large white veil with a red border, and trimmed with a fringe of the same colour. AUSTRIA-PLATE 31, PLATE XXXI. A POLISH JEW. THE Jews are very numerous in Poland, having obtained permission to settle there,, on condition of paying a very considerable tribute to the government. They are likewise allowed to wear the long garment, and to let their beard grow, as in most of the countries where they are tolerated. The large cap with which they cover their head in winter is trimmed with a broad., thick, long-haired fur. They are reputed in Poland, as elsewhere, to be always misers, cheats, and very great usurers. The physiognomy given to the two Jews in this Plate fully agrees with this character : but this physiognomy is not common to all the Polish Jews ; and though they are under the necessity of making an immense profit to enable them to pay the tribute to which they are subject, there are among them, no doubt, as many honest as among the Jews of other countries. ^g ... w AUSTRIA- PLATE 3 fui2M.fd June 1JS13 JUanarlr ftf.': PLATE XXXII. A POLISH JEWESS. IN the countenance of this old woman we trace the same character imprinted in that of the two Jews represented in the preceding Plate, and the odd manner in which she is dressed removes all doubt of her trade. The silk cloak of a very brilliant colour, lined with an old fur, and tied round the waist with an old gold cord fringed at the ends ; the blue damask petticoat, with a broad embroidered yellow border ; the apron of a common printed calico, on a white ground, with a bib of a different colour ; the large hood of black mode, the wings of which come over the face, and the striped linen handkerchief which completes her head-dress, form such a ridiculous assortment of old worn out apparel as could only be found in the dress of a pawn- broker or old- clothes woman, who by way of turning every thing to profit uses for herself all that she cannot sell. 33. Jtih^.lunr l.aa-i. b, J.Murrau. Altannrlc .itrrrf- PLATE XXXIII. A JEW OF MONTGATZ, IN HIS SUMMER DRESS. THE heat has made him throw off his long robe and great fur cap, and he appears in a wide jacket without sleeves. He has a black coif on the top of his bald head., and his hat serves to conceal a bag of money which he is going to lend on usurious interest. Montgatz is a little town in Upper Hungary, situated on a steep rock, having a fortress composed of three castles which command it. The Princess Ragotski, the consort of Count Tekeli, defended it for a long time with great courage against an Imperial army, but was compelled to surrender in 1688. The town is in the county of Pereizas, and is the residence of a Greek catholic bishop AUSTRIA - .FLATK 34. PLATE XXXIV. A ZOUPPANESE COUNT, OF THE COUNTRY OF CATTARO, IN DALMATIA. DALMATIA is 112 leagues in length, and 23 in breadth; it is bounded on the north by Bosnia and Morlachia, on the west and south by the Gulf of Venice and Albania., and on the east by Servia. It is divided into Venetian, Ragusian, Turkish, and Hungarian. Hungarian Dalmatia is situated towards the upper part of the Adriatic, near Albania. The city of Segna, which is situated near the sea in a barren mountainous country, and fortified both by nature and art, is the capital of this province, of which the country of Cattaro makes a part. The inhabitants of Dalmatia, as well as those of Albania, are descended from the ancient Scythians. They are tall, strong, bold, and indefatigable, but great robbers. To travel securely in this country travellers find it necessary to be well armed and escorted, and the inha- bitants themselves never stir out without all their arms. They have among them several noble families, whose dress, which is represented in this Plate, differs entirely from that which has been adopted by the nobility in almost every other country of Europe. The red coif seen on the head of this Zouppanese Count, so called from the canton he inhabits, resembles that of the Pope or Cardinals. His long whiskers, run down lower than his chin, like those of the Chinese. His cloak would very much resemble a common bed-gown with close sleeves, were it not for the girdle which draws it about the body, and in which he carries a pistol and a dagger richly ornamented. His long 1 A ZOUPPANESE COUNT OF DALMATIA. wide breeches are much in the Grecian fashion, as are the shoes he wears. The country house, or square pavilion in the same Plate, its quadrangular trunnions., its entrance by a draw-bridge to the second story, and the many little openings left in the walls for firing unseen on an enemy., shew the kind of architecture to which the fear of robbers has given rise in this country. PLATE XXXV. A ZOUPPANESE COUNTESS. THE women of the country of Cattaro are generally distin- guished for beauty. There is much more nobility in the countenance and carriage of this Countess than in her dress, which,, were it not for the kind of demi-crown she places over her forehead, and which marks her dignity, would every where else be that of the lowest chambermaid. Her head-dress, which is the part on which the greatest care is bestowed, consists of a large white handkerchief, trimmed with a broad yellow fringe, and thrown double on the head, in such a manner, that the ends, falling on each side to an equal length, cover her back and shoulders, and hang down before to her waist. A large neck-hand- kerchief, exactly like the one on her head, covers her bosom as high as her necklace. There is in this mode an air of carelessness which gives her much grace, and the handsome ruddy countenance, peering amidst the white folds, acquires from it additional beauty, it is a rose encircled with jasmine. Au STR a A - PLATE -//<* Strnt. PLATE XXXVI. A ZOUPPANESE AND HIS WIFE. THE dress of the inferior classes of the Zouppanese is much the same as that of the nobility., as to the make of it, but the colour and quality of the stuffs used for their clothes are more common. They wear, besides, on the left shoulder a sort of shawl or scarf, made of a stuff of different coloured stripes, and fringed at the ends. This shawl, which is not worn by the nobility, as we may observe in Plate XXXIV. covers the left arm and reaches down to the wrist. The stockings of this Zouppanese are not of a violet colour with wide yellow embroidered clocks, like those worn by gentlemen. To cover his head he wears a red cap with a broad fur border ; his stockings are plain white ones, and he has close half boots spotted with dif- ferent colours. But like the Count, he has long whiskers, as well as a sash, in which he fixes his dagger and pistol, and the ends of which are fastened together by a clasp re- markably large : instead of a sword he has a long carabine, the stock of which is very much ornamented, and which he sometimes carries slung to his back. The dress of his wife has nothing in it that resembles that of the Countess in the last Plate. She has neither cap nor neck-handker- chief : her shift, which opens before like a man's shirt, covers her bosom and ties at the lower part of the neck ; her short hair, with its natural curls, is her whole head- dress. Her girdle is ornamented with large coloured stones : her shawl and boots are like those of her husband. - \ 1 STRIA- PL AT E 3/. PLATE XXXVII. A MAN AND WOMAN OF RISANO, IN THE COUNTRY OF CATTARO. RISANO is a small episcopal town in Dalmatia, situated on the Gulf of Cattaro. It has been nearly destroyed by the Turks. The inhabitants very much resemble the Zoup- panese in their manners, person., countenance, and dress. We again meet the red cap of the latter, their long whiskers, their shawl, girdle, long wide breeches, and the same arms ; there is only a little difference in the shape of their boots and of their cloak, which is much more open at the bosom. But there is not the least resemblance between the dress of a lady of Risano and that of a Zoup- panese. Her whole head-dress consists of a veil carelessly put on, the motions and folds of which, she varies with great dexterity without appearing to touch it, but in such a manner as to display her charms, sometimes successively, and sometimes the whole of her beautiful face at once. The rest of her dress consists of a green petticoat, a small bodice shaped like a spenser, of a bright red with a yellow border, and a large white apron with a bib that reaches up to her neck. The young woman represented in this Plate is a vintager carrying a basket of grapes to her husband, who tired no doubt with waiting, is scolding her for coming so late : his dissatisfied and jealous eye seems to discover more coquetry than innocence in the use she makes of her veil. . \ I S TJR.I A PJLATE 38 , liil''Jiuicl /W.I. /y .tltu/rvu M-rm.a-ff Stnrt PLATE XXXVIII. A GREEK PRIEST OF THE COUNTRY OF CATTARO. THE inhabitants of the country of Cattaro are of the Greek church, a priest of which is represented in this Plate. His flat hair and venerable beard, with the grave colours and the shape of his dress, display a majestic appearance, which commands respect, and is suited to announce a minister of religion. ! ^s *?*s AUSTEIA. PLATE 39, ir 1. ma. by J.Mumu,. Albmiarlt Sim* PLATE XXXIX. A SERETHIAN. THE Serethians have been successively subject to Turkey and the Emperor, under the appellations of Croats and Moldavians ; and have long inhabited the confines of Transylvania and Moldavia. Those who are Mahometans have continued either under the government of the Grand Seignor, or under that of a prince become independent styled Hospodar ; the rest are subject to the Emperor, and are embodied with his troops, their service being nearly similar to that of the Tyrolian chasseurs. They precede the army, and lie in ambush at all difficult passes. They are armed with a carabine, two pistols, and a cutlass. Their dress much resembles that of the Houlans ; but instead of boots, they wear half boots that cover the ends of their pantaloons. A belt like a hussar's, in which they stick their pistols and cutlass, a very short red jacket sitting close to the body, blue pantaloons, and a simple but elegant bonnet of the same colour as the jacket, com- pose their dress. The Serethians are well made, brave, robust and indefatigable. They are accused of being cruel, and of never giving quarter when attacked. They derive their name from the Sereth, a river of Turkey in Europe, which rises in Transylvania, and changes its name several times in its course; it is called the Moldaw in Moldavia, through which it passes, and waters the towns of Joczowa and Targorod. - PLATE 40. ulJ813 iy J. Murray . 1UnmarU Sti-ot . PLATE XL. A PANDOUR, OR RED MANTLE. THE Pandours, or Red Mantles, form a part of the Hun- garian light troops composing the Emperor's infantry ; they are taken from the county of Bath, in Lower Hungary, and from the country round a borough called Pandour, situated on the frontiers of the Palatinate of Solth. They are armed with a fusil., a Hungarian sabre, which they handle very dexterously, and two pistols, which they fix in their belt. Their uniform is remarkable for the great red cloak in which they wrap themselves, covering their head with the hood of it. Beneath this cloak, from which the name of Red Mantles has been given them, they wear a short brown coat, blue pantaloons down to the ankle, and small half boots. Many of them serve in the Turkish armies. They are accounted good marksmen, but they are extremely addicted to pillage, in which they glory. AUSTRIA RUATE 41 SlS *\'J.MurnyJU'anarlcJtr*t. PLATE XLI. A MORAVIAN MOUNTAINEER, NEAR THE CONFINES OF HUNGARY. MORAVIA., a province or marquisate annexed to Bohemia, took its name from the river Morava, which runs through it. It is bounded on the north by Silesia., on the east by Hungary, on the south by Austria, and on the west by Bohemia. Moravia was anciently inhabited by the Quadi and the Marcomanni, who drove the Boii out of Bohemia, and in the seventh century founded the kingdom of Moravia, which extended to Belgrade. Two hundred years after this, Bohemia was subdued by the Sclavi, who formed it into an elective monarchy, and in the year 1084 added Moravia to it. It was declared a margraviate in the twelfth century, when Bohemia became subject to the Emperors of Germany. From the year 1306 Bohemia and Moravia formed but one kingdom, the throne of which was elective, and was successively filled by princes of different houses, several of whom became emperors. It came into the pos- session of the House of Austria in the fifteenth century, since which it has remained a part of its hereditary states. The peasants that live in the mountains of Moravia are very simply clad : they wear a full, white jacket, without buttons, which folds over the breast, and is confined by the strap of their haversac, slung across them like a soldier's bandolier, and by a leathern belt buckled about the loins. They have pantaloons, which, like their jacket, is white, and half boots tied close round the leg with leathern thongs. A MORAVIAN MOUNTAINEER. Their mouth is veiled by their beard, which they suffer to grow on the upper lip ; their lank, neglected hair lies loose on their neck and shoulders, and a large flapped hat covers their head. 42. flit* JuntusiS ifj .1 yurrau, .Hhaiuirle Stmt PLATE XLII. A COUNTRYWOMAN OF THE MOUNTAINS OF MORAVIA. BY the preceding Plate, we see that the clothes of the Moravian mountaineers differ little in their make from the usual dress of peasants in other parts of Europe. The only things remarkable are the air of elegance which their white jacket receives from the little border of sky-blue stuff with which it is trimmed, and the superior neatness of their half-boots ; but the dress of their women is very dif- ferent from that of the women of other countries. They have a short petticoat of green stuff, a blue apron, and a large white shawl with a blue border, which covers the whole body, and reaches down to the wrists. Their shift is close over the bosom, and buttons on the neck. They wear on the head a common white handkerchief, which they tie behind ; and they usually walk in large boots., like men's, that come up almost to the knee. AUSTM2A JHLATE niif?./iutei.M.\t-> J.iiwriui, AStmarlt Jtrrrt PLATE XLIII. A PEASANT OF THE LOWLANDS OF . MORAVIA, IN HIS SUMMER DRESS. MORAVIA is very mountainous, and almost all the sides of the hills that have a southern aspect,, are planted with vine- yards, which produce good wine. An immense number of walnut trees also are raised, and frankincense and myrrh are found among these mountains ; but they are most valuable for the number of streams and rivers that issue from them, which spreading through the plains, bestow fertility and plenty, the surest signs and pledges of a numerous population. The number of the inhabitants of Moravia in 1775 amounted to 1,134,674, including 23,382 Jews. The dress of the inhabitants of the lowlands be- speaks the enjoyment of a little more ease than appears from that of the mountaineers. Instead of the common buskin, they wear Hungarian half boots, which are much dearer. Their waiscoat, which has white buttons, and their pantaloons, are made of blue stuff. Their jacket, which is of the same colour, has red facings with a white border, but is neither so long, nor so full as that of the mountaineers. They have no whiskers, nor have they leathern belts or haversacs. PLATE XLIV. A COUNTRYWOMAN OF THE LOWLANDS OF MORAVIA, IN HER SUMMER DRESS. IN looking at this young handsome Moravian in her light dress, suited to the heat of the season, we are struck with the disagreeable contrast of her boots, compared to the rest of her apparel. As her petticoats are so short, we readily justify her in the use of boots through the winter, to keep out the cold and wet : yet her motives for wearing them in summer are not less reasonable, though less obvious to a stranger ; for the end can be no other than to secure her legs from the bite of venomous reptiles and insects, always so numerous in the neighbourhood of brooks and rivers. .. AUSTRIA PLATE PLATE XLV. IN HIS WINTER CLOTHES. THERE is very little difference between the summer and winter dress of the inhabitants of the lowlands of Moravia. In both seasons they wear the same boots. Instead of the large napped hat which keeps off the heat of the sun in summer, they wear in winter a round hat in the English fashion,, and over their usual clothes they put on a cloak of the same colour, lined with fur. The peasants, who do not wear gloves, secure their hands from the cold by keep- ing them beneath their cloak, and carry their stick under their arm. AITS TBIA ELATE . 1*1013. tfj.ltumii--li*rte Stnrt PLATE XLVI. A COUNTRYWOMAN OF THE LOWLANDS OF MORAVIA, IN HER WINTER DRESS. THE winter dress of the countrywomen in the lowlands of Moravia, differs from their summer one merely in their wearing., like the men, a blue pelisse lined and trimmed with a thick fur. This water-carrier is returning from the spring where she filled the two pails that are hung to the ends of the stick which she carries on her left shoulder, taking great care to place it so as to preserve the equili- brium of the pails in order to lighten her burthen. AUSTRIA I'LAT.K .17. . ,,,,.., PLATE XLVII. AN HANNACHIAN WOMAN. THE Hannachians take their name from the river Hanna, which rises at Nebstick, in Moravia, and running through the circle of Olmutz, falls into the Morava. They inhabit the mountains following the course of this river,, and are tall and robust. Maria Theresa, Empress Queen of Hun- gary, granted them great privileges, as a reward for the services she received from them in the different wars in which she was engaged. The Hannachian women are in general pretty, their countenances full of life and expression ; and they dress with much more elegance and grace than the women of the lowlands of Moravia. Their shift is of much finer linen, and the sleeves of it are confined by two sorts of bracelets, one placed at the top of the arm and the other above the wrist. The handkerchief which they wear on their head is more ornamented, not tied so tight, and shows their hair better : their corset is made of violet silk, laced close before, and trimmed with a broad yellow band. They have red stockings with white clocks, and black shoes with flat soles, like those of a man, AUSTRIA P3LATK PLATE XLVIII. A RUSSNIAC PEASANT OF THE PALATINATE OF MARMOROS. A GREAT part of the Palatinate of Marmoros is inhabited by Russians,, called Russniacs, and by Walachians. Almost all the Russniacs are serfs, and have consequently the mean character and low inclinations of that degraded state. The usual business of those who live in the mountains is to raise cattle. Their dress consists of a shirt with wide open sleeves, fastened round their loins by a leathern belt, and of which the collar, the upper part of the sleeves, and the wristbands are embroidered in red. Over this shirt they commonly wear a jacket, or very short coat, of a coarse brown, or iron-gray cloth. They have long pantaloons tied above the ankle, half-boots, and a round hat, or a large black sheep-skin bonnet : they put on nothing more in the coldest weather. They never go out without a little axe in their belt, which serves them to cut wood, and which they handle as dexterously as the ablest carpenter. AUSTRIA ful-'Jun, l. isa. kf.nti,rra r . .ilbaiurtr . Hrrrt PLATE XLIX A RUSSNIAC WOMAN OF THE PALATINATE OF MARMOROS. THE Russniac women are in general tall, but their coarse and unmeaning physiognomy marks in every line of it the stupid indifference to which they resign themselves. Their dress has not the slightest share of grace ; it consists of a shift with red embroidery round the neck, and on the bosom and shoulders. The sleeves of the shift are made of the coarse kind of lace used to trim curtains, and on which large red flowers are painted. They wear a broad girdle of the same colour, the two ends of which are tied behind and hang down loose. On days of dress they put on glass-bead necklaces of different colours. They cover their hair with a linen handkerchief, which is crossed under the chin, and the two ends, tied behind the head, fall upon the shoulders. The materials of their apparel, and that of their husband, are almost entirely the work of their own hands. They spin the brown wool of which they make their cloth, and their distaff is constantly in their girdle. AUSTRIA PLATE 50. PLATE L. A BLACKSMITH OF UPPER AUSTRIA, IN HIS HOLIDAY CLOTHES. IN the dress of this blacksmith we recognize that of the peasants of Upper Austria, already described in Plates I. II. and III. We may judge of the ease enjoyed by the inha- bitants of this happy country, from the gay dresses of this artizan and his wife, furnished by a business, which every where else scarcely enables those who follow it to provide themselves with food and the coarsest clothing. tfCSB tIBRARY UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY A 000603190 o