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THE OBCHID MANUAL, 
 
 C TJ Hi T I ^-A- T 1 1ST 
 
 STOYE, GREENHOUSE, AND HAEDY OECHIDS, 
 
 WITH A 
 
 CALENDAR OF MONTHLY OPERATIONS, 
 
 AND 
 
 LISTS O3J 1 SPECIES. 
 
 BY THOMAS APPLEBY, 
 
 FORMERLY MANAGER OF THE ORCHID DEPARTMENT OP 
 
 MESSRS. A. HENDERSON AND CO., 
 
 TINE APPLE PLACE. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER OFFICE, 
 
 162, FLEET STEEET. 
 

 LONDON: 
 
 Printed by Truscott Son, & Simmons, 
 Suffolk-lane, City. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 AIR, giving 5, 70 
 
 Acanthophippium javanicum ... 45 
 
 jErides culture 33 
 
 BASKETS 8, 67 
 
 Basketing Orchids 19 
 
 Brassavola cucullata 47 
 
 Blocks 11, 66 
 
 CAMAROTIS purpurea 34 
 
 culture of 33 
 
 Cattleya citrina culture 35 
 
 labiata alba 10 
 
 Cockroaches 30, 74 
 
 Cypripedium caudatum 49 
 
 Lowi 51 
 
 spectabile 64 
 
 DISEASES 32 
 
 Dendrobium formosum 20 
 
 speciosum 77 
 
 EPIDENDRUM cornutum culture 35 
 
 rhizophorum culture 35 
 
 GREEN fly 32 
 
 Greenhouse Orchids 61 
 
 for baskets 73 
 
 for blocks 73 
 
 epiphytal 71 
 
 potting of 63 
 
 soil for 63 
 
 terrestrial 72 
 
 HEAT for Stove Orchids 3 
 
 Hardy Orchids 79 
 
 in borders 83 
 
 in pots 82 
 
 propagation 84 
 
 summer culture of 86 
 
 winter culture of 88 
 
 lists of 89 
 
 INSECTS 29, 73 
 
 L-ELIA super biens, culture of ... 36 
 
 MILDEW 33 
 
 Page 
 
 NEWLY imported Orchids 39 
 
 ODONTOGLOSSTJM Insleayi 53 
 
 Oncidiura luridum 55 
 
 Orchid-houses 2 
 
 PAPHTNIA cristata 36 
 
 Pots for Orchids 9 
 
 Potting 15,18, 82 
 
 Propagation 75, 84 
 
 RED spider 32, 74 
 
 Renanthera coccinea 36 
 
 SACCOLABIUM culture 33 
 
 Scuticaria Steeli 37 
 
 Shading 4 
 
 Slug?, large black 31 
 
 small white 32 
 
 Soils 14, 81 
 
 Spot 32 
 
 Stove Orchids 1 
 
 for baskets 43 
 
 for blocks 43 
 
 for bell-glasses 44 
 
 epiphytal 41 
 
 for pots 41 
 
 summer culture 22 
 
 terrestrial 18, 44 
 
 winter culture 26 
 
 Summer treatment 22, 69 
 
 Suspended plants 6 
 
 Syringes 9 
 
 Syringing 12 
 
 THRIPS 31, 74 
 
 VANDA culture 33 
 
 coerulea 59 
 
 suavis 16, 57 
 
 teres culture 37 
 
 Vanilla planifolia culture 38 
 
 WATERING 12, 68 
 
 "Watering-pots 9 
 
 White scale 30, 74 
 
 \Vintertreatment 26, 71 
 
 Woodlice 31 
 
 993 
 
t LWIVERSITY 
 ^S^U^RH^^ 
 
 STOVE ORCHIDS. 
 
 GOOD collections of Orchids requiring stove treatment are 
 now very numerous in this country, and such is their beauty 
 that the number of cultivators is annually increasing. The skill 
 necessary to grow them displayed by English gardeners, shows 
 to no small extent what perseverance can accomplish in over- 
 coming difficulties that .at first seemed almost insuperable. Fifty 
 years ago exotic Orchids in this country were almost unknown 
 to gardeners, and it was only by studying their native habitats 
 and peculiar circumstances as to their mode of growing in exotic 
 climes, that has led to their successful culture. If any plant is 
 brought from foreign climes, where it grows in a dense, moist 
 forest, and is potted in any chance soil that may be handy, and 
 placed on a shelf in a dry stove exposed to the burning summer's 
 sun, it must soon languish and die. Such, no doubt, was the fate of 
 many of the orchideous plants collected and sent home without, 
 perhaps, a line to say under what peculiarities of climate or soil 
 it enjoyed in its native wild. However, some few flowered, and 
 their extreme elegance, curious forms, and singular appearance, 
 led to inquiries, which, when given faithfully by collectors, soon 
 led to a different mode of culture, and, finally, to that perfection 
 we now see displayed in our stoves and exhibitions. This success 
 has been the cause of a greater demand for them ; so much so, 
 that hundreds of species have been introduced, and the numbers 
 are increasing annually. 
 
 As a natural consequence, information on their management 
 is in request, and one or two manuals have been published on 
 the subject. The first was published by T. C. Lyons, Esq., a 
 
2 THE OECHID-HOUSE. 
 
 zealous amateur and grower, at Ladiston, in Ireland. He first 
 wrote a small book on the subject, printed it, and bound the first 
 edition with his own hands, and generously gave the first edition 
 away to his friends, and all the cultivators of Orchids that he 
 knew of. That small work was so well thought of, that he was 
 induced to write a considerably enlarged edition, much improved 
 both in form and matter. This was published in 1845, in 
 London, by Mr. J. Ridgway, and by Messrs. Hodge and Smith, 
 of Dublin, and is now, I believe, out of print. Another some- 
 what larger work on the culture of these lovely plants is from 
 the pen of Mr. B. Williams, formerly gardener to J. Warner, 
 Esq., of Broxbourne, Herts. I may venture to mention also 
 that I wrote a few essays on their culture in the earlier volumes 
 of THE COTTAGE GAEDENEE. Notwithstanding all these pub- 
 lications, it seems that a few concise instructions in a simpler 
 form and in less compass are needed, and will be useful to young 
 gardeners, amateurs, and others, that may be desirous of growing 
 Orchids, and wish to know the best way to set about their culture. 
 
 On each point of culture I shall endeavour to give plain in- 
 structions in such language that the veriest tyro can understand ; 
 and if he will, or can, put them in practice as far as his means 
 extend, I have no doubt by careful attention he will succeed in 
 growing his plants in a satisfactory manner. 
 
 THE OECHID-HOTJSE. Let not the amateur be alarmed about 
 the expense of a house suitable for Orchids. If his collection at 
 first is small, any kind or form of house, if sufficiently heated, 
 will, with judicious care, grow them on till a larger house is 
 needed ; but where expense is no object, then a proper house 
 should be put up for them. Experience has proved that a span, 
 roofed house is the best form. Now, as these plants mostly 
 grow on trees in their native country, there they enjoy a large 
 amount of light. Hence we should study to give them as much 
 light as we possibly can in our, comparatively speaking, dark 
 climate. The span-roof does so, as everybody knows, much more 
 than a mere lean-to j and in order that every part of the house 
 
HEATING. 3 
 
 may have an equal share of light at all hours of the day, the 
 position of the house should be placed to run from east to west. 
 The morning sun will then send its beams on the east side at 
 noon, when its strong power might be injurious, the rays will be 
 slanting on the plants ; and the afternoon sun will enlighten the 
 western side to the latest hour. 
 
 This house should have a division one part to be devoted to 
 East Indian species, and the other to such as are from the more 
 temperate climes of the western hemisphere. Generally speaking, 
 this latter house should be 10 or 15 cooler than the first. When 
 the Indian species are in bloom, the flowering season may be 
 prolonged by bringing them into the cooler house. 
 
 HEATING. When orchideous plants are making their annual 
 growth they require the greatest amount of heat. To economise 
 fuel, then, the season of growth should be during the last month 
 in spring and the summer. The best mode of heating and most 
 easy to manage, is by hot-water pipes, with a tank on the top of 
 the ascending pipe. This mode of heating suits Orchids the best Of 
 any, it can be so easily regulated. Apply it then in sufficient 
 power to give the most heat when the plants are growing. Some 
 may object that the season of growth does not come uniformly 
 to all species of Orchids. True ; but that propensity to grow in 
 autumn or winter may, by judicious and persevering care, be 
 altered and changed just as easy as forcing Roses at Christmas, 
 or Grapes in May j and, as is well known, when once the habits 
 of a plant are once changed, that change becomes every season 
 more fixed on the plant, till at last its season of growth is com- 
 pletely altered, and remains so as long as the cultivator pleases. 
 These facts are well known to the forcing-gardener, and hence the 
 plant-grower may by the same means set all his plants their 
 season of growth, and compel them, as it were, to continue to 
 keep that season year by year ; only let him have power over his 
 means of heating, which he may have by a boiler and hot-water 
 pipes, and plenty of them. I observed above, that the pipes 
 should have a tank upon them ; that tank should be, during the 
 
4 SHADING. 
 
 growing season, kept full of water. The pipe when warm heats 
 the water, and causes a gentle moisture to rise amongst the plants, 
 which is highly beneficial to them, especially to those growing on 
 blocks or such as root from the stems in the air. The degree 
 of heat Orchids require is by some growers set too high, and by 
 others too low. I have found, from the experience of a quarter 
 of a century, that the following table, drawn up for my use, and 
 corrected to the state it appears below, is amply sufficient for 
 them : 
 
 EAST INDIAN HOUSE. SOUTH AMEEICAN HOUSE. 
 
 Day. Night. 
 
 Summer 75 to 90... 70 
 
 Winter 65 ... 60 
 
 Day. Night. 
 
 Summer 60to65... 60 
 
 Winter 55 ... 50 
 
 These are average heats, inasmuch as on very hot days the 
 heat will be a few degrees higher, and in very cold weather it 
 may be a few degrees lower without any injury to the plants. 
 
 SHADING-. The house for Orchids being put up, the next 
 thing to think of is how to shade the plants from the burning 
 beams of a summer's sun. At that season of the year the leaves 
 are young and tender ; and if a drop of water is on any one leaf 
 and the sun strikes it, the lens formed by the water becomes a 
 focus, and on that place a burn or scald will take place. To 
 prevent such a mishap the glass should be shaded. Some put 
 on it a covering of whitewash or some other daub, which is 
 certainly effective and saves trouble ; but the objection to this 
 mode is, that the shading being permanent, on dark days the 
 plants suffer from want of light to ripen the pseudo -bulbs : this 
 is a great evil. 
 
 Undoubtedly the best shade is one that can easily be drawn 
 off whenever the sun is clouded. Perhaps the best material for 
 this purpose is the one named Shaw's tiffany ; it is quite stout 
 enough to intercept the rays of the hottest sun. To apply it so 
 as to save trouble, procure a pole, about two inches diameter^ 
 rather longer than the length of the house. At one end fix a 
 wheel six inches diameter. On each side of this wheel nail 
 
MODE OF GIVING AIE. 5 
 
 round boards projecting two or three inches beyond it. When 
 this is done a kind of groove is formed ; and in this the cord to 
 let down and draw up the shade is coiled, one end being nailed 
 to it. The shading material is then nailed to the pole, it having 
 been first sewed together the size of the roof. The pole with 
 the canvass nailed to it should then be laid on the roof. A 
 flat, long, narrow piece of wood should be nailed firm to the 
 highest point of the roof; then stretch the canvass, and nail 
 the loose side to this flat piece of wood. Use some kind of 
 binding to this edge, and nail through that binding. Then take 
 hold of the other end of the cord, pull at it, and the wheel will 
 turn round, and, of course, the pole turn round also, wrapping 
 up the canvass neatly as it rolls up to the top or apex of the 
 house. The rope may be wrapped round a kind of fixed button 
 in a handy place, and tied there till shade is needed ; then loosen 
 the end of the cord, and let down the shade gently to the lowest 
 part of the glass, where a few stops of iron or wood should be 
 firmly fixed to prevent the pole rolling off the house and tearing 
 off the canvass from the flat piece of wood. To make this 
 canvass last longer, let a weatherboard be fixed on the top of 
 the house ; and when the shade with its pole is drawn up, it will 
 be under this weatherboard and be protected from wet. In 
 winter, when no shade is required, the canvass may be unfixed 
 and put away in a dry shed till spring. 
 
 MODE OF GIVING AIE. When the thermometer indicates a 
 temperature too high it may be lowered by giving air. In 
 spring the external air will be too cold to be admitted direct to 
 the plants : hence it is desirable to let in the fresh air just over 
 hot-water pipes. To accomplish this make openings in the wall, 
 and fix to these opening sliding shutters. When these are 
 opened the air rushes in, and becomes not only warmed but also 
 charged with moisture arising from the tanks placed on the 
 ascending pipes, and is then highly beneficial to the health of 
 plants. To allow of the escape of the heated air, a few openings 
 should be contrived at the highest part of the roof. In summer, 
 
6 AEBANGEMENT OF THE PLANTS SUSPENDED PLANTS. 
 
 when there is no heat in the pipes, the outward atmospheric air 
 is so warm that the air when admitted will not injure the plants 
 in the least. 
 
 AEEANGEMENT OF THE PLANTS. The central stage may 
 either be a succession of steps or one broad platform. In either 
 case it is desirable to make each into a shallow watertight cistern, 
 to be filled with small pebbles j or, if kept empty, place in them 
 broad pans just high enough to be above the level of the sides. 
 These cisterns are intended to hold water during the growing 
 months, and thereby supply moisture to the air, and also protect 
 the plants from the destructive cockroaches. 
 
 Around this central stage funs the walk, and on the side next 
 the wall a platform may very conveniently be placed. Ihe 
 surface of this platform may be formed exactly like the central 
 stage ; and on it many smaller plants may stand, and also any 
 that may go earlier to rest than the general collection. 
 
 SUSPENDING PLANTS. These require hooks, or large-headed 
 nails, driven into the rafters to hang them to ; or a strong iron 
 rod kept well painted may be suspended over the walks, and at 
 proper intervals hooks made in the shape of the letter S placed 
 upon the rod, and to each of these hooks a basket or a block 
 containing a plant is suspended. There is this advantage of 
 having these plants hanging over the walk namely, that when 
 watered or syringed, the surplus water falls into the walk and 
 not on the plants. 
 
 UTENSILS. -4 Cistern. The rain water that falls on the roof 
 should run into spouts placed just under the ends of the glass 
 frames, and conducted from them by a pipe into a large cistern. 
 This utensil is almost indispensable to the Orchid grower. The 
 water in it should be kept milk- warm. If placed upon the flue 
 the water will be kept sufficiently warm. It is highly useful in 
 that state for syringing with, and also to dip the baskets and 
 logs with plants on them in. Just before the plants in baskets 
 begin to grow, the peat from having been dry during the season 
 of rest will be found hard $ and then, if the plants require new 
 
ORCHIDS IN SUSPENDED POTS. 
 
TJTENSIIS BASKETS. 
 
 baskets, the roots will be so firmly fixed to the lumps of dry peat 
 that, if these lumps are not softened by steeping them in the water, 
 the roots will be broken and otherwise greatly injured ; but if 
 steeped for two or three hours the peat then is easily separated 
 from the roots without injury to the latter. 
 
 Baskets. The grower will soon find that baskets are 
 necessary, and for this reason that some species, especially of 
 Stanhopea, Acinetas, and a few Peristerias, send their flower- 
 stems down through the soil. Now, if these are grown in pots, 
 it is evident that the greater part of the flower- stems will 
 perish. The baskets should be of a size in proportion to the 
 size of the plants. The smallest may be six inches square, the 
 next twelve, and the largest eighteen inches. To make these 
 baskets, iron, brass, and copper, have been used. I object to 
 the first, because it rusts so soon in the damp Orchid-house, and 
 the other two are too expensive. Earthenware also has been 
 converted into baskets for Orchids ; but its great weight and 
 liability to break renders it undesirable. After having tried all 
 these, I have come to the conclusion that the best material for 
 baskets for Orchids is long Hazel rods j the smallest, for small 
 baskets, about the thickness of one's middle finger, and the 
 largest as thick as one's wrist, with proportionate intermediate 
 sizes. Saw them into proper lengths, and with a sharp-pointed 
 iron borer made red hot, bore a hole through each end. Then 
 have ready some copper wire cut into the right lengths ; lay 
 down for small baskets two rods six inches long, and upon these 
 at right angles three rods at equal distance. Nail these to the 
 two first with small copper flat-headed nails, then turn over 
 this first layer and place two more to form the other two sides of 
 the baskets. Then take four pieces of the wire, make a loop at 
 one end of each, and then draw the other ends through the holes 
 at the four corners of the basket. Slip over two more at oppo- 
 site sides, and then two more to fit upon them at the other two 
 sides. For the smallest three rods deep will be sufficient. Wedge 
 the wires vrith small wooden wedges at each corner, and then the 
 
POTS SYBINGE WATEKING-POTS POTTING -BEKCII. 9 
 
 basket is ready for the plant. The next size may have four rods 
 on each side, and the size larger five on each side. There is no 
 advantage gained in making those baskets deeper. 
 
 Pots. The kind of pot that I have found best for Orchids is 
 a wide shallow one, the proportions of which are as two, three, 
 and five that is, two inches wide at the bottom, three inches 
 deep, and five inches wide at the top, all inside measure. Larger 
 pots to be in the same proportions. The roots of Orchids are 
 generally near the surface ; and besides, a larger surface is exposed 
 by this form to the beneficial effects of the moist air of the interior. 
 These wide pots may be ordered at the manufactory, and will 
 cost no more than the ordinary-shaped pots. When these pots are 
 ordered, I would recommend the grower to order also about a 
 dozen large, upright pots, without holes at the bottom. These 
 are to be kept filled with water, and placed at regular distances 
 close to and touching the pipes. So placed, the cultivator will 
 find them exceedingly handy in syringing, saving the trouble of 
 carrying and shifting the common garden pot filled with water 
 for the same purpose. Sometimes I found it necessary to pro- 
 cure wide, shallow pans for such plants as Miltonia spectabilis 
 and some others. In deep pots I found the leaves and pseudo- 
 bulbs turned yellow, especially if too much exposed to the sun. 
 I also found pots with holes at the sides very useful for many of 
 the Indian Orchids such, for instance, as the brides, Sacco- 
 labiums and Yandas. 
 
 Syringe. Bead's or Warner's, either of these is good. There 
 should be three roses one with very fine holes, one with medium 
 sized, and one with wider holes. The first is useful to form a 
 gentle shower like dew, the second for general use, and the 
 coarse one to force a heavy shower on the soils in baskets, and 
 to wash off insects, previously lying the plants on one side. All 
 these the amateur will find highly useful. 
 
 Watering-pots. A. large one to carry water and a small one 
 with a long spout for watering plants at a distance. 
 
 Lastly, a convenient potting-bench of a good size, with a narrow 
 
OBCHID ON BLOCK (Cattleya labiata aftd). 
 
OECHIDS ON BLOCKS. 11 
 
 board at the back and ends, placed in a warmed shed or pot- 
 ting-room, handy to the Orchid-house, and if possible with a 
 door opening into the house, so that the plants when removed to 
 be potted will not be exposed to a sudden change of temperature, 
 will complete the list of necessary apparatus for the Orchid- 
 grower. 
 
 OBCHIDS ON BLOCKS. There are many of the most rare and 
 very lovely Orchids that do not thrive well in either pots or 
 baskets. In their native habitats they are found growing on 
 branches of trees, the roots clinging to the branches or swinging 
 in the air, from which they appear to draw their nutriment. We 
 imitate this mode of natural growth by placing such plants on 
 logs of wood suspended from the roof of the Orchid-house. I 
 have used various kinds of wood for this purpose, and from 
 many years of experience I have come to the conclusion that the 
 branches of the Robinia pseudo-acacia are the best for them. It 
 is the common hardy Acacia, commonly so called, a tree now 
 well known. I use it without the bark, which easily peels ofl 
 when the branches have been cut off for a year or so. The next 
 best, when the Acacia cannot be procured, are branches of the 
 Cork tree, then of the Oak, and lastly, of the Elder tree, any ol 
 which will answer the purpose. The Cork branches I have used 
 with the bark on, because the bark of that tree does not so easily 
 decay. The objection to logs with bark on is, that when the 
 bark decays woodlice and other insects secrete themselves behind 
 the bark, and issue thence at night to prey upon the young roots, 
 shoots, or flower-stems. 
 
 The way to fasten the plants to the logs is easy enough. The 
 log being ready, with a piece of wire fastened to it to suspend it 
 by, then have ready some small wire and some green moss. Hold 
 the plant with the hand close to the log, and also some moss, 
 then wind the wire round the log, catching hold of the plant at 
 the same time, but be careful not to let the wire press too tightly 
 on the plant. The part best to lay the wire upon is that named 
 the rhizoma, or root-stock, which generally is of a hard woody 
 
12 SIZE OF THE BLOCKS WATEKIJNtf. 
 
 texture, and, consequently will bear a gentle pressure. At the 
 same time place a thin layer of green moss on the log, and some 
 on each side of the plant. If it should happen that the root- 
 stock is soft and fleshy, a little moss should then be put under 
 the wire to prevent it from cutting the root- stock. The plant 
 will, when it begins to grow, put forth new roots, and even the 
 old living roots will send out branchlets of new roots. Some of 
 these will catch hold of the log and wrap round it. Then if the 
 root-stock swells, and the wire appears to strangle it, let the wire 
 be cut in pieces to prevent further mischief. Some delicate 
 species are better without any moss excepting a bit under the 
 wire. These species I shall give a list of in the group below. 
 
 Size of the Blocks. When the plant is large it should be 
 placed upon a large block, but in order to lessen its weight it 
 may be split in two. Such large blocks should have a stronger 
 wire, which should be fastened to each end and suspended from 
 the centre. Small plants, on the contrary, should have small 
 logs, and the wire fastened to one end only, and a loop twisted 
 at the other end to suspend it by. 
 
 I have been rather minute in describing the different operations 
 of potting, basketing, and blocking, which if carefully and 
 rightly performed at the proper season will leave the plants 
 ready for the next equally important operations of watering and 
 syringing operations that require particular and constant 
 attention during the whole period of growth. 
 
 WATEKING. Plants in pots and baskets, when newly placed 
 in fresh compost and just beginning to grow, sending forth new 
 roots and shoots, should have very moderate supplies of water, 
 and that should be given round the edges of the pots or baskets, 
 so as not to wet the plant at all. I use for this purpose at that 
 season a small pot, with a long small spout without a rose. The 
 operator has with such a pot a greater power over the quantity 
 of water he ought to give to each plant. When the young shoots 
 have half formed their new pseudo-bulbs, and the days have 
 become longer and the sun more powerful, more water may be 
 
SYRINGING. 13 
 
 given, and it may be extended close up to the plant. As a 
 general rule, let the operator observe never to water an Orchid 
 till it requires it, and let the quantity given be in proportion to 
 the size of the plant and its state of growth. At the base of 
 each new pseudo-bulb there is a kind of sheath. This sheath 
 holds water ; and when that bulb is young this water, lodging 
 in the sheath in dark cloudy days, will have a tendency to rot 
 the young shoot. In such a case the sheaths had better be 
 carefully torn open to let the water escape. As the pseudo-bulbs 
 increase in size and maturity the sheaths decay, and may then 
 be removed entirely. When the pseudo-bulbs have reached this 
 stage the greatest quantity of water should be given. Many 
 of the Dendrobiums may be deluged with water daily; for 
 upon the free application of water at that state of growth 
 depends the full development of the growths. In their native 
 climates there is, as is well known, a rainy season that is, it 
 rains heavily almost every day for many weeks: therefore it 
 behoves the cultivator to give abundance of water, in order to 
 get his plants well grown when the growing season takes place 1 
 more especially if the summer should be hot and dry. When 
 the pseudo-bulbs have attained what the grower may judge their 
 full size, then gradually reduce the quantity of water till the 
 dark days of autumn arrive, and then no more should be given 
 than will prevent the shoots from shrivelling too much. Fre- 
 quently in winter once a-month a small supply of water will be 
 necessary. 
 
 SYRINGING. The same precautions must be used in syringing 
 as I have described above for watering with the garden-pot. It 
 may be freely used during the summer morning and evening ; 
 but in spring and autumn the syringing should be done only in 
 the morning, when the sun is likely to break forth clear during 
 the day. To create a moisture in the air in the evenings of such 
 days syringe the pipes and paths only. In all cases be careful 
 not to syringe over the flowers, for the least drop of water will 
 injure their beauty. 
 
14 SOILS. 
 
 SOILS. The soils necessary to grow Orchids with consist of 
 turfy peat, fibry loam, sphagnum moss, leaf mould, cowdung 
 pressed in cakes, charcoal, silver sand, and for drainage a large 
 supply of crocks that is, broken pots in at least three sizes. 
 
 Turfy Peat. The best of all comes from the neighbourhood 
 of Exeter, but very good may be obtained in various parts of 
 the kingdom. It must be sought for where dwarf shrubs, grass 
 and Ferns grow on it the roots of these form the most useful 
 part of it. It should be carted home and laid on a heap. When 
 the potting season approaches a sufficient quantity for present 
 use should be brought into the potting-shed; and when nearly 
 dry should be chopped into pieces, and then the pieces pulled 
 asunder with the hand. After that, pass it through a fine sieve 
 to take out the finer particles ; and what remains in the sieve is 
 the part to be used for the Orchids. The finer parts may be 
 used for young Azaleas or Heaths, or to mix with loam and 
 sand for any young plants. 
 
 Fibry Loam will be needed for terrestrial Orchids. It will only 
 require to be chopped into small pieces and used in that state. 
 The surface of an old pasture taken off an inch or two thick 
 forms the very best loam for this purpose. Like the peat, it 
 should be brought into the shed to become dry and aired some 
 time previous to being used. 
 
 Sphagnum Moss. This is found in wet, boggy marshes, in some 
 places very abundantly. It is collected with a long -toothed rake 
 in dry weather, and laid up in a dry shed till wanted. In order 
 to make it work easily and mix readily with the peat, it should be 
 chopped pretty fine with a sharp, small hatchet, taking the dust 
 out of it through a fine sieve : it is then ready for use. 
 
 Leaf Mould-*- This, as is well known, is formed with the leaves 
 that fall in the autumn. It forms a large part of the compost for 
 terrestrial species, such as Bletias, Ancectochiluses, Cypripediums, 
 &c., and should not be too much decayed. Oak and Beech yield 
 the best leaves for this purpose. 
 
 Cowdung. I prefer this article best when it is collected par- 
 
SOILS CULTUBE POTTING. 15 
 
 tially dried out of the cow-pasture. It should be laid on a floor 
 rather thin, and patted down with the back of a spade, and lie 
 long enough to become dry, and then be gathered up and put 
 in a dry place till wanted. 
 
 Charcoal is a very useful ingredient to mix with the peat, 
 loam, and moss, and also to lie upon the crocks used for drainage. 
 It should be broken into pieces the size of a hen's egg or walnut, 
 and be kept dry till required for use. A small quantity of silver 
 sand should also be procured, it is used for some species. 
 
 Drainage. For this purpose there is nothing better than 
 broken garden pots. On breaking, separate them into three 
 sizes, the largest to cover the hole at the bottom of the pot, and 
 a thin layer upon them ; then a second size, rather less, to lay 
 upon the larger size ; the third size should be not much larger 
 than horse Beans. The greater part of a collection of Orchids 
 grown in pots requires to be well drained so much so, that the 
 pot should be half filled with ifc. Stagnant water will certainly 
 destroy the roots : therefore the cultivator must pay particular 
 attention to this important point. 
 
 CULTUEE. The grower of these interesting and singularly 
 beautiful plants having put up the house for them properly 
 heated, the shading and arranging parts of the interior com- 
 pleted, utensils and soils in order, and a fair collection of plants 
 procured, will then commence cultural operations, the most 
 important of which is 
 
 POTTING. The best season for potting will generally be in the 
 early months of the year. The rule to know when a plant should 
 be potted is whenever the buds at the base of the pseudo-bulbs 
 begin to grow ; then the plant should be potted. Now, if too 
 much heat has been given during the autumn, these buds may 
 be prematurely started ; but if the resting season has been pro- 
 perly managed, and moderate heat given during that season, no 
 growth will take place till the turn of the year. Such being the 
 case, then at the proper time remove such plants as have begun 
 to grow into the potting-shed. Take a plant in hand, turn it 
 
ORCHID IN POT (Vanda suavis). 
 
POTTINa. 17 
 
 out of the pot very carefully, taking great care not to break or 
 bruise the roots. Very likely some roots will be found adhering 
 to the sides of the pots so closely that they will not leave them 
 without breaking. In such a case I used to thrust a thiu-bladed 
 knife, such as painters use to work their colours on the palette, 
 down between the roots so fixed and the pots. With care and 
 dexterity this may be done without injuring the roots. I have 
 met with some bad cases where the roots were numerous and too 
 firmly fixed to the pots to be got off with the knife. In such 
 instances I have broken the pot very gently, removing as much 
 of it as I could, and leaving the rest with the roots fastened to 
 the pieces as I found them. Having by these means got the 
 plant clear of the pot, then shake off all the old compost and 
 examine the roots all that are dead cut clean away to the living 
 parts. Then, whilst the plant is in hand, look out for and clean 
 away all insects, such as brown and white scale, black thrips, 
 &c. If the white scale (the worst of all) abounds, wash the 
 plant with strong soap water or Gishurst Compound, and 
 cleanse the leaves also of any dirt or dust that may be on them. 
 This washing being done, lay the plant down the leaves will be 
 drying whilst the pot for it is prepared. Let it be of a size in 
 proportion to the size of the plant. Orchids, however, require 
 larger pots than most other plants, because they have mostly 
 larger and longer roots. The fresh pot should be quite clean 
 inside and out. Begin to drain it by laying a large piece of 
 broken pot over the hole or holes (for large pots should have 
 three holes), prop this crock up with a small piece on one side, 
 place other large pieces upon this central one, then the next size, 
 and, lastly, the small-sized potsherds. Upon them place a thin 
 layer of pieces of charcoal, and then put in sufficient of the right 
 kind of compost to raise the plant a little above the rim of the 
 pot. Small plants may be raised one inch, middling-sized two 
 inches, and large ones from three to four inches. Each plant 
 should stand as if on a little hillock in the centre of the pot 
 Make the compost firm, working it in amongst the roots. Then, 
 
18 TEEEESTEIAL SPECIES POTTING. 
 
 if the plant does not stand firm of itself, thrust in some sticks 
 and tie the pseudo-bulbs to them in a neat and tidy manner ; set 
 the plant down on the floor, and take the syringe with the coarsest 
 rose on it, fill it with milkwarm water, and, holding it very near 
 to the compost in the pot, force the water out all over it, being 
 careful not to wet the plant. This settles the compost, giving it 
 a neat, even appearance, and finishes the operation. Carry 
 the plant into the house and take the next plant in hand, repot 
 it in a similar way, and so proceed till all are potted that 
 require it at that time. The above directions refer to the epi- 
 phytal species. Terrestrial species require a somewhat different 
 mode. 
 
 TERRESTRIAL SPECIES. 
 
 POTTINQ. The earth-growing stove Orchids are found mostly 
 in thickets and open glades of forests in tropical regions, grow- 
 ing in a continually increasing decomposing vegetable soil, 
 rich, unctuous and moist. In order to succeed well we must 
 imitate this soil. I can give an instance of successful culture 
 of one of the most beautiful of terrestrial Orchids I mean 
 Calantlie vestita, which I saw in the stove at Summerfield 
 H. Micholls, Esq., near Manchester. This successful hit wa 
 achieved by Mr. T. Baines, the gardener there, a most zealous 
 and persevering cultivator of Orchids. He grows this species in 
 a rich, strong compost of fibrous lumps of loam, leaf mould not 
 too much decayed, and flakes of dried, cakey cowdung, the whole 
 mixed with small pieces of charcoal. He selects the strongest 
 and nearly equal-sized pseudo-bulbs, eight or ten in number, 
 when they are starting to grow, and plants them in his compost 
 in a large pot, just covering the lower part of the bulbs. Yery 
 great was the success that attended this mode. They grew strong 
 and flowered magnificently. The pseudo-bulbs were the largest 
 I ever saw. The same method has been adopted for several years 
 with the same success. The small tubers are potted in small 
 
BASKETING. 19 
 
 pots and grown on till they are large enough to be put into a 
 large pot to form a good specimen. There are several species that 
 may be grown in the same way and in the same compost, but 
 others will not bear so rich a compost. Cypripediums, for 
 instance, thrive better in fibrous peat and leaf mould mixed with 
 sand and charcoal. 
 
 In potting there is this difference between epiphytal and 
 terrestrial Orchids whilst the first thrive best if raised on a 
 small hillock in the centre of the pot, the latter should be potted 
 like other plants, level or just below the run of the pot. The 
 same season for this work, however, is suitable for terrestrials 
 namely, the spring of the year, and also the same attention is 
 requisite in having the fresh pots clean, and draining well, and 
 in cleaning the leaves of such as are evergreen. In the grouped 
 list below, the different composts for each genus are described. 
 To that list I refer the reader. 
 
 BASKETING. A considerable number of epiphytal, and a 
 few terrestrial Orchids, require to be grown in baskets, inasmuch 
 as they have the peculiarity of sending their flower-stems almost 
 perpendicularly downwards, showing evidently that they either 
 grow on branches of trees or in crevices of rocks. If such are 
 grown in pots, it is evident that the flower-stem growing down- 
 wards and being confined amongst the soil in the pot must rot, 
 and thus render the care and attention of the cultivator, so far 
 as the blooms are concerned, abortive. To prevent this mis- 
 fortune, the attentive growers long ago adopted baskets, or 
 placed the plants that had this peculiar habit in piled-up square 
 pieces of peat, through which some of the flower-stems pushed 
 and flowered well. I once had a large plant of Stanhopea 
 oculata so grown, which produced no less than seventeen long 
 flower- stems, with from six to seven large flowers on each. This 
 plant happened to bloom when there was an exhibition in the 
 Botanic Gardens at Liverpool. I took it there and was awarded 
 the first prize for it. Notwithstanding this success, I do not 
 recommend the growing of Stanhopeas in pots } because in such 
 
OECHID IN BASKET (DendroUumformosum). 
 
BASKETING. 21 
 
 a case the water runs off the hillock, and, consequently, does not 
 feed the plant sufficiently to keep it strong continually. 
 
 The way to put these peculiar plants in baskets, and to renew 
 the soil and basket as they require it, is as follows : Having the 
 baskets ready made of different sizes, then fix upon one of a suitable 
 size in proportion to the size of the plant, and line the bottom 
 and sides with a thin layer of long moss sphagnum unchopped 
 is the best. This moss is to prevent the compost from dropping 
 through the bars of the basket, and also to keep in moisture. 
 Upon the moss place a layer of the compost ; after that take 
 the plant out of the old basket or pot and examine the roots 
 and leaves, cutting off all the dead ones from the former, and 
 cleansing the latter from dirt and insects j also, removing as 
 much of the old compost as you can without injuring the roots. 
 Perhaps this old compost may be in lumps dry and hard, and 
 the living roots are so firmly attached to them that to remove 
 them from the lumps in that state would simply be impossible 
 without breaking, and, consequently, destroying them. In such 
 a case place the ball in warm water for a sufficient time to 
 thoroughly soak through and soften the clods, then set the plant 
 to dry, and when in the right state the old lumps may be 
 removed easily enough from amongst the roots without injuring 
 or breaking them. Having accomplished this point, then place 
 the plant in the centre of the basket and fill in the compost all 
 round it till the basket is full, keeping the pseudo-bulbs clear 
 above the soil. That being done, then place the basket with the 
 plant in it on a large pot, take the syringe with the coarsest 
 rose fixed on it, fill the syringe with tepid water, and, holding 
 the end pretty close to the soil, force the water strongly through 
 the rose on to the soil, going round the basket all the while. 
 This watering in this manner will settle the compost effectually, 
 and will leave the surface smooth and even. Then with a pair 
 of scissors trim off any loose pieces of moss that may have pro- 
 truded through the bottom or sides. This gives a neat finished 
 appearance, always desirable to any plants. 
 
22 CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS APRIL. 
 
 Young plants of such as eventually require baskets may, whilst 
 they are small, be advantageously placed 011 blocks of wood ; 
 and when such have made pseudo-bulbs that are likely to flower, 
 they may for a year or two be placed in a proportionate-sized 
 basket without being taken off the log. The plant will grow 
 much better than if it was torn off the block at once on trans- 
 ferring it to the basket. As the block will in time decay, the 
 plant can then be easily detached from it when it needs a new 
 basket, and will have done much better with the log in the 
 basket than without it. 
 
 SUMMER TREATMENT. 
 
 In describing the summer treatment of these beautiful plants 
 there will necessarily occur some slight repetitions of operations 
 already alluded to. I allude more particularly to the modes 
 of potting, basketing, and blocking, and also to watering and 
 syringing (for full directions on these important points see 
 former instructions). I consider the [summer months in the 
 Orchid-house to be April, May, June, July, and August, and 
 I think it will be most useful if I give the heads of the operations 
 for each month separately. 
 
 APRIL. The days will now be of nearly equal length with the 
 nights. The sun will frequently be powerful during the middle 
 of the day. When that is the case shading should be resorted 
 to. The blinds should be let down by ten o'clock in the fore- 
 noon on the eastern side (if the house is a span-roofed one), 
 drawn up at noon, and let down on the western side till three 
 o'clock. Syringe the plants lightly, especially those on blocks, 
 every fine morning. Keep the air of the house moist, and 
 increase the heat from 5 to 10 more than last month, especially 
 during bright sunshine. Finish potting all plants that are 
 growing. Stanhopeas and other species that flower downwards 
 through the soil should not be potted or put in new baskets till 
 the bloom is over, for fear of injuring the flower-stems. To 
 
SUMMEE TREATMENT MAY AND JUNE. 23 
 
 encourage the flowering of such plants let them be steeped in 
 tepid water once or twice during the month. 
 
 Some Denbrobiums will now be in bloom, remove such into a 
 cooler house to prolong their bloom. 
 
 MAT. Attend to shading as directed for last month. Give 
 an hour's longer shade at each end of the day. Continue to 
 repot all the plants not done last month. This is the month for 
 repotting the plants growing in the cooler house such, for 
 instance, as Cattleyas, Oncidiums, Lselias, and Epidendrums. 
 The drooping-flowering varieties as they go out of bloom should 
 be put into fresh baskets and fresh soil. Should it not be 
 thought advisable to repot or rebasket any plants, such should 
 have the pots clean-washed and the top part of the old compost 
 removed without injuring the roots, then put on a surfacing of 
 fresh compost, and give an ample watering. 
 
 The quantity of water given to the plants may be increased 
 during this month. The Indian species such as JErides, 
 Vandas, and their allies, should have abundance of water now to 
 encourage growth in both roots and shoots. The temperature 
 during this month should reach the highest point. 
 
 Use the syringe freely morning and evening, avoiding the 
 flowers as much as possible. During this month slugs and 
 cockroaches will be numerous; see to their destruction most 
 diligently. Yisit the house with a candle or bull's-eye lantern 
 after dark, and kill all those enemies you can find. 
 
 Observe the flowers as they open, and remove them either 
 into a cooler house, or to the cooler and most airy part of the 
 house where there is but one devoted to these plants. 
 
 JUNE. South American plants during this month will be 
 growing rapidly, Catesetums and Cyrtopodiuins especially. 
 Such should be regularly watered, increasing the quantity as the 
 shoots advance in size taking care, however, that no water 
 lodges in the hollows formed by the young leaves. I have used 
 beneficially to Cyrtopodiums a weak liquid manure just at the 
 period when they were growing most freely. This enriched 
 
24 SUMMER TBEATMENT JULY. 
 
 water caused the plants to make very strong pseudo-bulbs, 
 which flowered freely the following year. Shade during this 
 month most particularly, for the leaves being young they are 
 more liable to be scorched. Air should be given freely, but let 
 it pass over the warm pipes in entering the house. 
 
 Cattleyas and La?lias should be grouped together, for they 
 never require so much moisture as the Indian species. All 
 Orchids, however, should be allowed to become dry once in the 
 twenty-four hours. Should any plants have made their full 
 growth towards the end of the month, give them less water to 
 induce a gradual going to rest. 
 
 JULY. When weeds appear let them be plucked up whilst 
 young. If allowed to attain any size the roots when drawn up will 
 bring away portions of the compost. Amongst the peat there 
 will often appear young Heaths. These are not ugly and may 
 be left to grow to a certain extent. When they droop the soil is 
 dry ; hence they serve as hydrometers, and are, as such, useful 
 to show when the soil requires water. I have thought, also, 
 they take up noxious matters that otherwise would injure the 
 delicate young roots of the Orchids. Continue the same 
 attentions as directed for June. The days will now be long, 
 and often dry and sultry. During such weather the floors, 
 walls, stages, &c., should be kept flooded with water during the 
 day, and the syringe should be used for all growing plants^ 
 morning and evening. Let the plants in baskets be dipped in the 
 cistern twice a- week, and watered freely on intervening days. 
 The growths of most kinds will be progressing rapidly, and 
 should be encouraged to the utmost, more especially such species 
 as are found under the names of M rides, Yanda, Saccolabium, 
 Angrsecum, Kenanthera, and Phala3nopsis. 
 
 As recommended for May, all blooming plants should be 
 placed in a cooler and drier atmosphere to keep the flowers 
 longer in perfection. Let the shading continue to receive 
 attention, but use it only when the sun shines, either in this 
 month or any other. Let attention be given to all plants that 
 
SUMMEE TREATMENT AUGUST. 25 
 
 have fully made their year's growth, give such but little water 
 and very slight syringing, and that only in the morning. Eemove 
 such into a cooler and drier house. Let the grower bear con- 
 stantly in mind that all Orchids with pseudo-bulbs require a 
 decided rest for several months, and let him try to put his 
 Orchids into that state during the dark days of winter. On 
 the contrary, Orchids that have simple ordinary stems with 
 evergreen leaves should be kept just slowly growing all the 
 winter. 
 
 AUGUST. This, like July, is often a warm month. Hence 
 the shading should be continued on bright, sunny days, but it 
 may be removed by four o'clock in the afternoon. Keep up a 
 supply of moisture to plants that are growing, both in the air 
 and at the roots. In this month the beautiful Cattleya labiata 
 is in great beauty of bloom. Be careful not to wet these splendid 
 flowers. The texture of the floral leaves is so delicate that every 
 drop of water leaves a disfiguring mark behind it. In this 
 month such species as flower when at rest should be removed 
 into a more temperate place, have plenty of air, and scarcely any 
 water for two or three months. Then when the flower-buds 
 show prominently remove them into a rather warmer but no 
 moister place. The following are instances of the kinds of 
 Orchids alluded to Dendrobium nobile, cosrulescens, Cam- 
 bridgeanum, &c. Others that require a warm, dry treatment 
 when in flower require only to be kept drier in this month. 
 Such flower just before they begin to grow as, for instance, 
 Dendrobium aggregatum, formosum, and densiflorum. They 
 should be kept in a moderately warm but dry part of the house 
 till the flowers begin to open. Most of the terrestrial Orchids will 
 now begin to show symptoms of requiring rest, by their leaves 
 turning yellow and stems dying. Set such at once in a cool, 
 dry house. The genus Coelogyne flowers just when the pseudo- 
 bulbs are fully formed: hence they should be kept growing 
 till then. The blooming season for some of the best is January 
 and February, though some bloom in summer. Observe their 
 
26 WINTER TREATMENT APPLICATION OP WATER. 
 
 different seasons and treat them accordingly. During these 
 summer months wage a constant warfare with insects, and, if 
 possible, destroy them before they lay their eggs. By doing that 
 the next year's production of these enemies will be greatly 
 reduced. 
 
 WINTER TREATMENT. 
 
 APPLICATION OP WATER. Syringing. During this season 
 most of the Orchids should be at rest, or preparing for that state, 
 and, therefore, do not require syringing, especially such species 
 as have pseudo-bulbs. Some few, however, that are of an herb- 
 aceous habit, as, for instance, the genus Huntleya, require the 
 constant use of the syringe all the year, because in their native 
 habitats they grow near the spray of waterfalls. Also, such of 
 the Indian species as have no pseudo-bulbs should on the morn- 
 ings when the sun shines have a gentle dewing from the syringe. 
 This class of plants, of which ^Brides is the type, if exposed for 
 a long time to a high, dry heat, will be apt to shrivel, showing 
 that they are perishing, or at least starving for want of moisture. 
 Whenever this is perceived let them have such a syringing as 
 may renew their strength. It is a good plan to place all such 
 plants together in the house, in order that in wetting them 
 others that do not need so much, or any in winter, may be kept 
 dry. Plants that are grown on logs need more water from the 
 syringe than such as are grown in pots : therefore, continue to 
 moisten such even when at rest occasionally, to keep them fresh 
 and healthy. 
 
 Watering with the Garden-pot. In winter this implement 
 will be very little required. Keep the compost just moist 
 enough to prevent the leaves from drying up too much. The 
 terrestrial species with bulbs should be placed on a shelf where 
 no water can reach them when at rest. Others that are herb- 
 aceous and evergreen should have enough water to keep them 
 gently growing. The genus Cypripedium, and similar genera, 
 require watering all the year, but of course less in winter than 
 
WINTEE TEEATMENT SEPTEMBEE AND OCTOBEE. 27 
 
 in summer. This partial cessation of moisture in dark, un- 
 genial weather gives a kind of rest even to such species, enabling 
 them to start into vigorous growth in spring, and flower more 
 abundantly. The grower must be content with these general 
 instructions on this important subject of watering in winter. 
 Experience and observation must guide him as to the particular 
 time to cease giving water to the plants when going to rest. 
 With these few preliminary remarks on watering, I now proceed 
 as I did on summer treatment, to give a calendarial monthly 
 account of work to be done in the Orchid-house in winter, com- 
 mencing with 
 
 SEPTEMBEE. In this month we have often cold nights : hence 
 it is necessary to look in the early part of the month and see 
 that the fireplace and hot-water pipes are in good order. When 
 the thermometer out of doors indicates 45 in the morning, light 
 ths fire and raise the internal heat to 60 without sun, and 65 
 with sun. Let the fire die out at night, so that the heat may be 
 lowest during the night. Shading may now be dispensed with. 
 Let the blinds be taken down and stored away in a dry room. 
 Give air only when the sun shines, and attend to syringing and 
 watering as directed above. 
 
 OCTOBEE. The general stock of plants should now have 
 perfected their annual growth. Many of the Dendrobii will be 
 shedding their leaves ou the perfected bulbs. These leaves 
 should be removed as they ripen and decay to prevent mouldi- 
 ness. All plants in that state should be removed to a cooler 
 house to induce perfect rest. Calanthe vestita and some others 
 will be in flower, and such ought to be kept dry on the foliage and 
 flowers, but moist at the roots. See that the roots of Cycnoches 
 and allied genera are in a dry state, or they will perish and thus 
 weaken the next year's growth. In this month collect soils, 
 such as fibry peat, both with and without sand, sphagnum 
 moss, cowdung, turfy loam, dried leaves, &c. ; also, break pot- 
 sherds, make hooked pegs, and order new pots if needed, so 
 that when all these articles are wanted they may be ready at 
 
28WINTER TREATMENT NOVEMBER, DECEMBER, AND JANUARY. 
 
 hand. Keep the fires going in cold weather as directed for last 
 month. 
 
 NOVEMBER. Proverbial for being dull, dark, and dreary. 
 Such weather has its influence even upon plants in an artificial 
 climate. The Orchid-grower will find it necessary to keep up a 
 moderate dry atmosphere, and fires almost night and day. 
 Should sunny days occur give a little air and raise a moisture by 
 wetting the warm flues or pipes in the mornings only. Cold 
 nights will now happen, and if moisture settles upon the leaves 
 they will not be benefited but injured thereby. Keep down 
 growths now, for shoots made now are sure to be weak if they 
 manage to exist through the winter. Should any dust or green 
 confervas appear on the leaves or surface of the composts let 
 them be removed, the first by washing the leaves with a soft 
 piece of leather or sponge (I prefer the first), and the others with 
 the finger and thumb, or a short, flat-pointed stick, always being 
 mindful not to injure the roots. Look to the fires and keep up 
 a drier atmosphere. 
 
 DECEMBER.-r-In this month we have often clear, bright, 
 sunny days. If not very frosty admit air over the warm pipes, 
 and steam the houses whenever such a bright day is likely to 
 occur. Some Dendrobiums will now be showing their flower- 
 buds. If desired to bloom early such should be removed to a 
 warm part of the house, and others kept back by being co<?l. 
 By this method the season of blooming may be greatly extended" 
 Many of the American species, such as Cattleya, Laalia, &c., will 
 now be making fresh roots, but let not the amateur be tempted 
 therebv to increase watering them. The moist air of the house 
 with slight syringing just on the roots, will be sufficient for them. 
 Too much moisture would only induce premature, weak, non- 
 blooming shoots. Use the fires just to raise the heat enough to 
 keep the plants from suffering from cold. This is a good season 
 to destroy insects, for the methods of doing which see Insects. 
 
 JANUARY. Some plants during this month will be beginning 
 to grow. The old but handsome Phaius grandifolius is an 
 
WINTER TREATMENT FEBEFABY AND MAECH INSECTS. 29 
 
 example. Such should be freely watered and otherwise encouraged 
 to grow on to flower. In this month the genus Cyrtopodium 
 should be potted and gradually induced to grow, in order that 
 its large pseudo-bulbs may be fully developed. Should the 
 weather be very severe, and it can be managed, cover the roof 
 with some light substance that will keep off the frost. This will 
 be much better than forcing up a great fire heat. Give moisture 
 in the mornings only, and air on all favourable occasions. 
 
 FEBETJAEY. As the days lengthen vegetation in the Orchid- 
 house will begin : hence a little more water may be given as 
 directed above. In this month the baskets containing Stan- 
 hopeas, Gongoras, and similar plants with drooping flowers 
 should have a good soaking by dipping in the cistern. Let them 
 sink gradually in the water, and keep a good look out for wood- 
 lice and other insects that will come to the surface out of the 
 compost. Let them be caught and destroyed. Increase the 
 heat 5 and give air on sunny days. 
 
 MAECH. Many species may be potted in this month, provided 
 a decided growing of the young shoots is observed. Plants on 
 blocks should be looked over and retied, and fresh moss added. 
 Some will require large blocks, let such be attended to at once. 
 Dendrobiums will also be showing signs of vegetation, attend to 
 them and give them fresh food in the shape of new compost. If 
 the spring is early, a great part of the work instructed to be 
 done in April may be done in this month. 
 
 INSECTS. 
 
 Every attention to grow Orchids well may be bestowed upon 
 them in a proper manner ; but if insects are allowed to increase 
 to an injurious extent all the labour will be thrown away: hence 
 Mr. Bateman, of Knypersly, says in his large work most em- 
 phatically, Beware of noxious insects. Frequently, when col- 
 lections of Orchids arrive from abroad they are covered with 
 white scale ; and if they are sent in boxes, that destructive insect 
 the cockroach will be found in great force. Such being the fact, 
 
30 INSECTS WHITE SCALE AND COCKBOACHES. 
 
 the importer will, or at least should, try to destroy every one 
 before he places such plants in the house. In addition to these 
 two, the following insects are too frequently found in Orchid- 
 houses namely, woodliee, thrips, large hlack and small white 
 slugs, red spider, and sometimes, though rarely, the green fly. 
 As such insects when they abound (which they will soon do if 
 neglected), are so injurious to these my favourite plants, I shall 
 lay before my readers the methods I have employed to destroy 
 them. 
 
 WHITE SCALE. This is the most pernicious of all the tribes 
 of insects to Orchids. It first appears like a white speck on the 
 leaves. It grows larger, lays eggs, which when hatched, by some 
 means -which I never could discover, the young creep away and 
 fix themselves in clusters, and there increase again, and so on till 
 the whole plant is covered with them. Feeding upon the leaf, 
 they eventually destroy it, and finally the whole plant. I saw a 
 plant that was much infes'ed with this pest: the gardener 
 washed them over with a weak solution of Grishurst Compound, 
 and it completely killed them. I, however, have destroyed them 
 years before Grishurst was heard of by a mixture of sulphur, 
 Scotch snuff, and pepper in equal parts, dusted over them when 
 steam was in the house. This mixture appeared to stick to 
 them, and its pungent qualities killed them without injuring the 
 leaf. No doubt with great care Grishurst would answer. 
 
 COCKROACHES are the next worst enemy, and are more difficult 
 to come at. They secrete themselves in cracks of the walls, and 
 also amongst the drainage of the pots, or any out-of-the-way 
 corner during the day. I have captured great numbers by 
 inverting a bell-glass and half filling it with sweetened liquor, 
 taking care that a pathway for them was made to enable them 
 to get to the brink of the vessel. Into it they fall, attracted by 
 the sweet fluid ; and there they are prisoners, being unable to 
 travel up the smooth glass : this is an excellent trap for them. 
 They are also trapped by laying slices of Turnips or Potatoes on 
 the surface of the pots, and then taking a light at night, and 
 
INSECTS WOODLICE, THEIPS, AND LAEGE BLACK SLUGS. 31 
 
 with a piece of wood, like the handle of a small painter's brush, 
 stuck full of pointed wires, spearing them whilst feeding ; but the 
 spearman must strike very quickly and suddenly, or they will be 
 too nimble for him. Poison may be laid for them also. I have 
 used lard and boiled Carrots crushed into a paste, both mixed 
 with arsenic, and made into small balls and stuck upon short 
 sticks. These baits may be stuck into the pots, baskets, &c., 
 at night, and removed in the morning if any fear is entertained 
 of the poison being eaten by domestic animals. All these 
 methods to get rid of these pests should be diligently resorted 
 to and followed till not one is left alive. 
 
 WOODLICE. In old houses more especially these devourers 
 will abound. They also, like the last-named insects, secrete 
 themselves during the d%y. I have found them in the drainage 
 and in baskets. The poison recommended for cockroaches will 
 kill these also. I have got rid of great numbers by the following 
 plan : When the compost in the baskets is dry I take them 
 down, and gradually force the basket down into the cistern. 
 The insects do not like wet : hence, as the basket descends, they 
 creep upwards and finally appear on the surface. They are 
 then easily caught and killed. I have found tfeat two or three 
 toads will devour great numbers of woodlice. It is a curious 
 sight to witness the toad catch his dainty morsel; but the 
 spectator must be very sharp, for the toad darts out his tongue 
 and draws in the insect as quick as lightning. 
 
 THEIPS. These tiny enemies feed on the under side of the 
 leaves. They only abound in cases of great neglect. The 
 sponge is the best remedy for them. By washing the leaves 
 with it, using tepid water, the plant may be cleansed ; but the 
 operation should be performed in a warm shed, or some of the 
 insects will escape. I have killed them also by filling the house 
 with tobacco smoke, 
 
 LARGE BLACK SLTJGS.If one or two of these voracious 
 enemies find their way amongst the Orchids, they do a serious 
 mischief by feeding upon the young roots, leaves, or flower-stems 
 
32 SMALL WHITE SLUGS, BED SPIDER, AND GEEEN PLY. 
 
 when just starting. They may be easily traced to their con- 
 cealment by the slime they leave behind them. 
 
 SMALL WHITE SLUGS frequently abound, especially after 
 repotting. Most probably they are brought in amongst the new 
 compost. As they are so small they are not as easily found 
 as the larger species. The only way I could ever find out to 
 catch them was by laying slices of Potatoes, Cabbage and Lettuce 
 leaves, in the places they resort to, turning these traps over 
 every morning or in the night, and destroying them directly. 
 
 BED SPIDEE. Though this formidable tiny enemy seldom 
 abounds a'mongst Orchids on account of the moisture, yet, when 
 the plants are at rest and little water used, they do appear ; and 
 by feeding upon the foliage of such plants as are of a thin and 
 delicate texture, they turn them yellow and cause them to be 
 sickly. Like the thrips, the best and most effectual remedy is 
 washing the affected leaves with a sponge dipped in warm water 
 Sulphur laid on the warm pipes like paint is a good preventive. 
 Should a plant be much pestered with them, it is a good plan 
 some warm day to lay it on one side on grass, and give the 
 under side of the leaves a severe syringing. Do this in the 
 morning, and then the leaves will become dry before night. 
 
 THE GEEEN FLY is, as every gardener knows, effectually 
 killed with tobacco smoke ; but it must be carefully used, never 
 allowing it to break out into a flame. 
 
 In conclusion, I would press upon the cultivator never to tire 
 in keeping these tiny enemies in complete subjection. Use aU 
 the above means, if necessary, for their destruction. Whenever 
 a root is observed to be bitten off at the end, or a leaf spotted, 
 look diligently out for the spoiler and destroy it. It is much 
 easier to keep a collection of plants clear from insects by destroy- 
 ing them before they begin to breed than if they are neglected. 
 
 DISEASES. 
 
 Happily Orchidaceous plants are not subject to many diseases, 
 THE SPOT is the most common and the worst, and is most 
 
DISEASES SPOT AND MILDEW. 33 
 
 prevalent on the Indian species, such as brides, Saccolabiums, 
 and the like. It is brought on by excessively forcing the plants 
 to grow, thus extending and stretching the cellular tissues, till 
 in one or more parts they rupture ; and the part so torn rots 
 and thus causes a black spot, which spreads and eventually 
 destroys the leaf, and too often all the young leaves at the top 
 of a shoot. The only remedy is to cut off all the affected leaves, 
 and place the plant in a lower and drier temperature, till fresh 
 healthy shoots and leaves are produced. It is a bad practice 
 to force young plants to grow too rapidly, for the sake of 
 qaickly making a large plant. Keeping them in a high, moist 
 temperature all the year will almost be certain to bring on this 
 
 MILDEW also will occur, but it is brought on by a cold damp 
 atmosphere. The genus Ancectochilus is very subject to this, 
 owing to being kept under a bell-glass in winter. The stagnant 
 moist air brings on black mildew, the beautiful leaves perish, 
 and the cultivator ^asks, Why ? The reason is plain enough 
 the cold damp air has caused the mischief. The remedy is. Keep 
 the plants drier, give more air, and, when the warm long days 
 arrive, fresh shoots will spring up as healthy as could be wished 
 for. 
 
 EXTRA POINTS OF CULTIVATION. 
 
 Under this head I have to describe some peculiar methods of 
 growing a few species which I would not notice in the general 
 instructions before given. 
 
 JEEIDES, SACCOLABIFM AND YANDA. These plants have no 
 pseudo-bulbs, but only a rather woody stem clothed more or less 
 densely with leaves ; and these stems generally, if not always, 
 send out strong roots. Bearing these facts in mind, the cultivator 
 will at once perceive that they require more moisture than such 
 species as have those reservoirs of life which are technically 
 named pseudo-bulbs. 
 
 CAMAEOTIS PTJEPTJEEA. A most beautiful species, introduced 
 D 
 
CAMAROTIS PURPI-REA. 
 
CATTLE YA EPIDENDEUM. 35 
 
 by Mr. Gibson from the foot of the Khoseea Hills in India. The 
 best way to grow it is to procure a straight, thick branch of Oak, 
 and tie round it a thick covering of long moss, and then tie 
 several shoots of the Camarotis round it. The shoots send out 
 roots, which soon lay hold of the moss, and root into it pro- 
 digiously. During the growing seaason the plant should be 
 kept very moist with the syringe : it will grow stronger by this 
 treatment than by any other. It should then have a period of 
 rest, and will flower in the spring most profusely. 
 
 CATTLE YA CITEINA. Here, again, is a lovely fragrant flower : 
 the plant that produces it requires a peculiar treatment, which 
 if not given the plant will die. That treatment is in accordance 
 with the habit of the plant in its mode of growth. The gene- 
 rality of even Orchids send their shoots upwards ; but this 
 species' sends them downwards : hence it is necessary to humour 
 it by fastening it on a log with the last-made pseudo-bulb under- 
 neath. So placed on the log, the plant appears to the un- 
 initiated to be, as it were, turned topsy-turvy, or upside down. 
 I have proved, however, repeatedly that grown in any other way 
 the plant will not long survive such wrong treatment. In every 
 other point of culture treat it the same as its congeners. 
 
 EPIDENDRTTM BICOENUTTJM. This fine species when well 
 grown is almost as handsome as a Phalaenopsis j but it is a 
 rather delicate plant. The only way I could succeed with it 
 was to place it on the upper end of a thickish, round, short 
 branch cut level, and fasten it to the block with fine wire, on a 
 thin bed of moss. When grown in a pot or on a log in the 
 ordinary way the young shoots invariably perished, and in time 
 the plant died, as a matter of course ; but when planted on the 
 top of a branch the young shoots grew and perfected pseudo- 
 bulbs, which in due season flowered well. The branch was not 
 suspended, but placed upon a shelf not far from the glass. 
 
 EPIDEKDETJM EHIZOPHOEFM. This species has very long, 
 slender shoots, and the brilliant flowers are produced near the 
 top. To bring them within view the plants should be grown in 
 
36 LJELIA PAPHINTA EENANTHEEA. 
 
 a wide, shallow basket lined with moss, and filled with the usual 
 compost. Then every shoot should be bent down, and coiled 
 round and round within the basket, which should be suspended 
 near the glass. In time there will be a dense mass of shoots, 
 the ends of which will just turn up a few inches, and thus when 
 in flower there will be a large number of umbels of scarlet 
 flowers truly splendid. It is a hardy species, and will bear a 
 low temperature in winter when at rest. 
 
 LJELIA SUPERBIENS. Another odd-growing species. The 
 peculiar treatment that it needs is simple enough. It neither 
 requires a pot, a basket, or a log. All that is needful is to sus- 
 pend it from the roof without anything at all but the wire to 
 hang by. In that way the large splendid specimen lately in the 
 gardens at Chiswick was cultivated, and no plant ever grew 
 better, or produced finer flowers and new pseudo-bulbs annually. 
 Whoever procures a plant of this fine species should profit by 
 this example, and treat his plant in that peculiar way. 
 
 PAPHINIA CEISTATA. A West Indian plant, producing 
 large and beautiful flowers. It requires a peculiar treatment to 
 grow it well. Take a wide, shallow pot, drain it well ; then 
 have ready a number of square- cut pieces of fibrous peat ; with 
 these form a wall, as it were, on the margin of the pot, and fill 
 in the inside with rough peat and sphagnum moss ; then place 
 round a second layer of the square pieces, drawing them a little 
 inwards, and fill up again with the compost. Proceed so till the 
 space at the top is just large enough to hold the plant ; then 
 place it on it, and fix it there with more square blocks of peat. 
 It will then stand upon,as it were, a pyramid of peat, and will 
 soon grow quickly and flower freely. So placed it will bear a 
 free supply of water, which it needs to grow satisfactorily. It 
 is a lovely species, worthy of ah 1 care. 
 
 BENANTHEEA COCCINEA. An old, well-known plant, and very 
 splendid when in flower, in which state, through mismanage- 
 ment, it is rarely seen. It may, however, be flowered annually 
 if the following culture is adopted. I suppose the reader has 
 
SCUTICAEIA VANDA. 37 
 
 a large plant tjiat seldom, if ever, blooms. In April procure a 
 large wide-mouthed pot, and also three or five long branches of 
 Oak, or the common Acacia, or branches of Cork any of these 
 will answer. If the plant is small, three branches will do ; if 
 large, five may be necessary. These branches should be six OP 
 eight feet long. Fix them in the pot firmly by packing round 
 them broken pots mingled with sphagnum moss ; tie them to- 
 gether fast with some strong wire at the top ; then take the 
 plant with all its roots entire, cut into lengths, and place them 
 round the branches at equal distances, fastening each to each 
 corresponding branch. Do this just at the commencement of 
 the growing season. Place the pot then in a situation where it 
 will not be knocked over, and where it will have plenty of light and 
 air. Keep it freely syringed, and in a warm temperature say 
 from 70 to 80. It will grow freely, and produce short joints 
 and large healthy foliage. Towards the end of summer reduce 
 the heat, and give less water, in order to check growth, and give 
 a degree of rest. It may not flower the following season, but 
 by giving liberal treatment that year, and a rest in the winter, it 
 will almost be certain to bloom every year afterwards. Kenan- 
 thera blooms generally in the autumn. 
 
 SCUTICARIA STEELII. In order to grow and flower this fine 
 plant it should be fastened to a thick, short log, and that log 
 placed just with a pot filled with moss. Its long leaves grow 
 downwards, hence it is necessary to suspend the pot and log 
 from the roof of the Orchid-house. The stems are short, and 
 on them the large cream-coloured flowers, blotched with crimson, 
 are produced. It is a native of Demerara in the hottest part : 
 hence it requires a hot damp atmosphere when growing, and 
 should be liberally syringed when in that state. It, however, 
 should be kept drier, and cooler during the resting season. 
 
 VANDA TEEES. This species has round leaves placed on an 
 upright, slender stem, from which, towards the top, the large, 
 handsome flowers are produced. In order to form a bushy 
 plant the long shoots should be shortened into lengths, and 
 
38 YANILLA PLANIFOLIA. 
 
 trained upwards, either to an upright round trellis or to a stout 
 branch. The shoots should be placed round the support at 
 equal distances. The lower parts of the shoot will soon break 
 buds, and form new shoots. By doing this you will have a low, 
 dense bush ; each shoot of it will produce several flowers, and 
 thus the plant will form a handsome specimen. Like the rest of 
 the genus, it requires a high temperature and plenty of moisture 
 when growing ; but less heat and moisture after the growth is 
 perfected. It flowers during the dry season in India, and, there- 
 fore, will flower here just before it is put into a state of rest. 
 
 YANILLA PLANIFOLIA. This is the plant that produces the 
 far-famed perfume named, par excellence, Vanilla. In its native 
 country, the West Indies, it climbs up the tallest trees, adhering 
 to the stem and branches like our common Ivy, only its roots 
 are ten times longer and stronger. I have cultivated it by first 
 planting a young plant in a pot in the usual compost, and 
 then nailing the long straggling shoots to the back wall of the 
 Orchid -house, and keeping the wall moist during the growing 
 season by syringing it and the plant every day. It grew very 
 ' fast and sent forth numerous roots, which clung very tenaciously 
 to the moist wall. In a year or two the shoots reached the top 
 of the wall ; I then trained them down the rafters, where they 
 soon flowered and produced large bunches of their perfume- 
 bearing pods. The same method of culture I found practised 
 several years ago at Sion House, and with still more success, 
 because the walls of the large tropical-house there were much 
 loftier than the house I had under my care. The flowers them- 
 selves are large and handsome, of a yellowish-white colour, and 
 the foliage is also large arid of a rich dark green colour. I found 
 the shade produced by the foliage was, during hot weather, 
 beneficial to the plants underneath. As this plant is cheap 
 enough it is worthy of culture, taking up no room and covering 
 a naked wall with its large glossy leaves, and when old enough 
 producing its fine flowers followed by clusters of its curious 
 pods. 
 
YANILLA PLANIFOLIA, 39 
 
 Notwithstanding this peculiarity, these Orchids require a season 
 of growth, a season of rest, and a season to flower. The season of 
 growth should he from May to August j the season of rest from 
 September to February; and the season of flowering from March 
 to June. During the season of growth a strong heat should be 
 kept up, and the air kept saturated with moisture day and night. 
 When the days begin to shorten fast, then induce a period of rest 
 by reducing the heat and giving only just enough moisture to 
 prevent the leaves from flagging. Growth will in consequence 
 be in a great measure stopped, and the fluids condensed, and 
 buds for flowering will be formed. Then, when the days begin 
 to lengthen increase the heat, but with a very small amount of 
 humidity. It is then the dry season of the tropics imitated ; and 
 by following this, as it were, thrice-divided treatment, the plants 
 will flourish and flower abundantly. Too often Orchids are 
 treated as if they required all the year a uniform condition of 
 heat and moisture. When so treated they, it is true, grow con- 
 stantly, but rarely produce flowers, because they are not allowed 
 a season to form and perfect their flower-buds ; and, besides that 
 they are kept too moist when the flowers are produced. Let the 
 young cultivator then think what his plants require, and give 
 them the treatment that is right, and I venture to predict he 
 will succeed both in growing and also obtain that which is the 
 object of growth abundance of flowers. 
 
 TREATMENT OF NEWLY-IMPORTED ORCHIDS. 
 There are many noblemen and gentlemen that have connections 
 abroad, in countries where Orchids abound, and those friends 
 send home large cases of Orchids. Collectors, also, for public 
 gardens, and nurserymen when they meet with them, gather them 
 and dispatch them to the parties who have sent them out for 
 that purpose. I have seen, I might say, almost cartloads arrive 
 and in a fair condition, but owing to mismanagement the greater 
 part perished. I saw large patches of Oncidium, Odontoglossum, 
 
40 
 
 TEEATMENT OF NEWLY- IMPORTED OECHIDS. 
 
 Catesetum, Epidendra, &c., arrive in good health sufficient to 
 stock a Crystal Palace. In a very few months the whole, or 
 nearly the whole, except a few miserable bits, were dead. They 
 were laid on a platform kept very wet and in great heat great 
 mistakes, indeed, in my opinion. 
 
 Now, if any of our readers should be fortunate enough to 
 import a lot of Orchids, the first thing they should do should 
 be to cut away all and every part that is dead, then examine 
 every part for insects, and use the proper methods to destroy 
 them. Then for the upright-blooming species procure a number 
 of flat logs and fasten the plants to them. Do not cut up the 
 large specimens fasten them on blocks just as they have arrived. 
 If there are a number of small bits that are alive, I advise them 
 all, or as many of them as may be convenient, to be tied to a 
 round log of a considerable length. Stanhopeas when they are 
 imported require a different treatment. I once received a large 
 mass just as it had been torn off its native bed. I cleansed 
 it and placed it upon a simple raft of rods large enough to 
 hold it. I put no moss or compost about the pseudo- 
 bulbs, only fixing a wire at each corner, and, drawing them 
 together, I then formed a loop, and thereby suspended the 
 mass and raft to the roof. A great number of new shoots 
 soon made their appearance, and the year after several flowers 
 were produced. It proved to be one of the best varieties of 
 Stanhopea tigrina. 
 
 Till shoots and roots are produced, very little water should be 
 given, and the heat should be rather below that given to esta- 
 blished plants. It is a great mistake to give stimulants in liberal 
 quantities to Orchids that have had a long journey, perhaps shut 
 up in boxes or Wardian Cases, and arriving in a shrivelled-up 
 condition. The treatment should be analogous to that given to 
 a sick or half- starved animal just enough at first to revive the 
 dormant living power, and to induce, as it were, a gradual return 
 to a healthy and growing state. 
 
 When fresh roots and new shoots are produced, then the im- 
 
CLASSIFIED LISTS. 41 
 
 ported plants may be potted, or put into baskets, or kept on the 
 blocks just as the different species require. 
 
 GROUPED LISTS OF SELECTED SPECIES. 
 
 IN the following catalogue I have given the names of such 
 species only as have either large, showy flowers, or flowers pro- 
 duced so numerously as to make a good display in the mass. In a 
 botanical point of view, all Orchids, however small their flowers 
 may be, are worthy of culture, but for general purposes or 
 ornament, or for exhibition, the greater number of species are 
 almost useless. Fortunately there are handsome-flowering species 
 enough to fill any houses that may be devoted to them, especially 
 if they are well grown into moderately- sized plants. I venture 
 to say that there are not a dozen collections in all Britain that con- 
 tain all the species in my selected list. I shall place them in 
 groups according to the modes of culture they require. 
 
 1. STOVE OBCHIDS THAT SHOULD BE GBOWN IN POTS in a 
 compost of fibry peat, sphagnum moss chopped fine and sifted, 
 the dust thrown away, and the whole mixed with small pieces of 
 charcoal. 
 
 brides affine Burlingtonia fragrans 
 
 roseum venusta 
 
 crispum Catasetum atratum 
 
 Fieldingii callpsum 
 
 LarpentEe citrinum 
 
 maculosum cristatum 
 
 odoratum laminatutn 
 
 purpuratum Russellianum 
 
 quinqueyulnerum Cattleya Aclandiae 
 
 Scbcederii amethystina 
 
 suavissimum bieolpr 
 
 virens major Candida 
 
 Angraeeum eburneum crispa 
 
 cau datum super ba 
 
 Anguloa Clowesiana elegans 
 
 uniflora granulosa 
 Ansellia africana Harrisoniae (new) 
 
 Bulbophyllum Henshallii guttata 
 
 Lobbii Harrisonii 
 
 Brassia caudata intermedia 
 
 maculata labiata 
 
 verrucosa lobata 
 
 Wrayii Leopold!! 
 
42 
 
 OECHIDS THAT SHOULD BE GBOWN IN POTS. 
 
 Cattleya Loddigesii 
 
 maxima 
 
 Mossise 
 superba 
 
 Pinelliana 
 
 Regnellii (new) 
 
 Russelliana 
 
 Scbilleriana concolor (new) 
 
 Skinneri 
 Ccelogyne cristata 
 
 fnliginosa 
 
 Gardneriana 
 
 speciosa 
 Cymbidium aloifolium 
 
 eburneum 
 
 giganteum 
 
 pendulum 
 Cycnoches chlprocbilum 
 
 Loddigesii leucochilum 
 
 pentadactylon 
 Cyrtochilum flavescens 
 
 hastatum 
 
 maculatum 
 
 mystacinum 
 
 stellatum 
 Dendrobium aduncum 
 
 aggregatum 
 
 albosanguineum 
 
 Blandyanum 
 
 coerulescens 
 
 calceolaria 
 
 chrysanthum 
 
 chrysotoxum 
 
 clavatum 
 
 Dalhousianum 
 
 densiflorurn 
 roseum. 
 
 Falconer ii 
 
 Farmerii 
 
 fimbriatum 
 
 formosum 
 
 Gibsonii 
 
 moniliforme 
 
 moschatum 
 
 nobile 
 raajus 
 
 Paxtonii 
 
 sanguinolentum 
 
 secundum 
 
 taurinum 
 
 transparens 
 
 triadenium 
 
 Veitchianum 
 
 Wallichianum 
 Dendrochilum filifolinm 
 Epidendrum aurantiacum 
 
 cinnabarinum 
 
 Hanburii 
 
 Epidendrum macrochilum 
 album 
 roseum 
 
 pboBniceum 
 
 Schomburgkii 
 
 vitellinum 
 
 Galeandra Devoniana 
 Grammatophyllum multiflorum 
 tigrinum 
 
 speciosum 
 
 Houlletia Brockleburstiana 
 Huntleya meleagris 
 
 violacea 
 
 Leptotes bicolor 
 Leelia acuminata 
 
 albida 
 
 anceps 
 
 autumna'is 
 
 Brysiana 
 
 cinnabarina 
 
 flava 
 
 Perrinii 
 
 purpurata 
 Lycaste aromatica 
 
 cruenta 
 
 Skinneri 
 
 Maxillaria tenuifolia 
 Miltonia atro-rubens 
 
 bicolor 
 
 Candida 
 
 Clowesiana 
 
 Morelliana 
 
 spectabilis 
 Odontoglossum Cervantesii 
 
 citrosmum 
 
 grande 
 
 hastilabium 
 
 Insleayi 
 
 membranaceum 
 
 Pescatorei 
 
 pulchellum 
 
 Rossii 
 
 Warczewiczii 
 Oncidiura ampliatum major 
 
 Barker! 
 
 bica'losum 
 
 Cavendishianum 
 
 divaricatum 
 
 flexuosum 
 
 lanceanum 
 
 leucocbilum 
 
 luridum guttatum 
 
 microchilum 
 
 ornitborhyncum 
 
 papilio 
 major 
 
 phymatochilum 
 
 pubes 
 
CLASSIFIED LISTS. '43 
 
 Oncidium pulvinatum Trichopilia tortilis 
 
 sphacelatum major Vanda Batemanniana 
 
 unguiculatum ccerulea 
 
 Saccolabiura ampullaceum cristata 
 
 Blumei gigantea 
 
 majus iusignis 
 
 curvifolium Roxburghii 
 
 guttatum coerulea 
 
 miniatum suavis 
 
 retusum tricolor 
 
 Schomburgkia crispa "Warrea tricolor 
 
 marginata Zygopetalum cochleare 
 
 tibicinis crinitum 
 
 Trichopilia eoccinea Makayi 
 
 Candida maxillare 
 
 suavis stenochilum 
 
 2. STOVE OECHIDS THAT THEIVE BEST iy BASKETS lined 
 with moss, and filled with the same compost as described above 
 for those in pots. 
 
 Acineta Barker! Dendrobium Pierardi majus 
 
 Humboldtii pulchellum 
 
 Barkeria elegans Epidendrum rhizopborum 
 
 Skinneri Goagora atro-puipuiea 
 
 spectabilis bufonia 
 
 Brassavola Digbyana maculata 
 
 glauca tricolor 
 
 Perrinii Icnischi 
 
 Chysis aurea nigrita 
 
 bractescens speciosa 
 
 loevis truncata 
 
 Limminghii Stanhopea aurea 
 
 Coryanthea macrantha bucephalus 
 
 maculata Devoniensis 
 
 Cymbidium Devonianum eburnea 
 
 pendulum graveolens 
 
 Dendrobium amoBnum insignis 
 
 Cambridgeanum Martiana 
 
 Devonianum oculata 
 
 macranthum quadricornis 
 
 macrophyllum saccata 
 
 onosmum tigrina 
 
 Pierardi Wardii 
 
 3. STOVE OECHIDS THAT THETVE BEST ON BLOCKS OF WOOD, 
 with a little moss tied over the roots, 
 
 Aganisia pulchella Cattleya superba 
 
 Barkeria Skinneri Leelia acuminata 
 
 Broughtonia eoccinea majalis 
 
 Comparettia eoccinea Oncidium crispum 
 
 Cattleya citrina ciliatum 
 
 marginata Oncidium bifolmm 
 
 pumila Forbesii 
 
44 CLASSIFIED LISTS. 
 
 Oncidium Insleayanum Sophronitis cernua 
 pectorale grandiflora 
 
 pulchellum. pterocarpa 
 
 tricolor Tiolacea 
 
 triquetrum 
 
 4. STOVE OECHIDS THAT THEIVE BEST ON LOGS OF WOOD 
 half buried in nioss in pots. 
 
 Phalsenopsis amabilis Scuticaria Steelii 
 
 grandiflora 
 
 5. STOVE OECHIDS THAT KEQTJIEE TO BE KEPT UNDER 
 BELL-GLASSES, and to be grown in moss, sand, fibry peat, and 
 leaf mould. 
 
 Ancectochilus argenteus Anoectochilus RoxDurghii 
 
 pictus setaceus 
 
 El Dorado cordatus 
 
 Lobbii intermedius 
 
 Lowii striatus 
 
 virescens Veitchii 
 
 6. STOVE OECHIDS, TEEEESTEIAL SPECIES, requiring a com- 
 post of fibry loam, sandy fibrous peat, leaf mould, and caked 
 cowdung in equal parts, with a liberal addition of silver sand. 
 
 Bletia Guineensis Cypripedium Lowii 
 
 Parkinsonii purpuratum 
 
 Shepherdii venustum 
 
 verecunda villosum 
 
 Calanthe curculigoides Peristeria elata 
 
 Masuca Phaius albus 
 
 vestita aurea grandiflorus 
 
 sanguinea maculatus 
 
 veratrifolia Wallichii 
 
 Cypripedium barbatum Pleione humilis 
 majus maculata 
 
 caudatum lagenaria 
 
 Fairrieanum Wallichiana 
 
 hirsutissimum Uropedium Lindenii 
 
 insignis 
 
AcANTHOPHippimi JAVANICDM. 
 
BEASSAVOLA CUCULLAT!. 
 

CYPETPEDIUM CAUDATCM. 
 
CrPEIPEDIDM LOWII. 
 
ODONTOOLOSSUM INSLEAYI. 
 
ONCIDIDM LUBIDUM. 
 
VANDA SUAVIS. 
 
VANDA CJERCLEA. 
 
GREENHOUSE ORCHIDS. 
 
 THEEE are many lovers of plants that would very much like 
 to grow Orchids, but object to them because the notion is pre- 
 sented to their minds that they all require a great heat and 
 peculiar treatment very difficult to understand and put into 
 practice. It is quite true that Orchids from the West and East 
 Indies, or at least the greater part of them, will not thrive well 
 without a high temperature well saturated with moisture when 
 growing ; but it is no less equally true that there are a consider- 
 able number from more temperate climes that will thrive well in 
 an ordinary greenhouse that is, in a temperature averaging in 
 winter from 40 to 45, and in summer from 55 to 65 a tem- 
 perature easily attained during the last-named season without 
 any artificial heat whatever. 
 
 Any amateur, then, in possession of a greenhouse may, without 
 any doubt of success, begin to collect and cultivate these most 
 singular and beautiful plants ; and in order that such cultivators 
 may have some idea how to proceed, I have thought it advisable 
 to write a few papers on their culture, and shall give a list of the 
 species that will bear what I call a greenhouse treatment. 
 
 In order to be better understood, I shall describe the right 
 kind of house for them, then the soils they require, then potting, 
 putting some on blocks, others in baskets, watering, summer 
 treatment, winter treatment, insects ; and, lastly, an alphabetical 
 list of genera in groups that I know will grow in such a house. 
 
62 THE HOUSE. 
 
 THE HOUSE. Any one having a common greenhouse may 
 begin to collect a few species and grow them amongst the ordi- 
 nary plants such as Camellias, Azaleas, Pelargoniums, and New 
 Holland plants ; but when the collection has become extensive, 
 then T would recommend them to be cultivated in a house of the 
 same temperature, entirely by themselves. The best cultivators 
 who have the means, always grow every large tribe of plants 
 separately such, for instance, as Heaths, Hoses, Camellias, &c., 
 and thus succeed much better than by mixing them indis- 
 criminately together. This is a good method, and holds true also 
 about Orchids from mild climates. Therefore, I recommend a 
 house devoted to them alone where it is convenient or possible. 
 The form of the house does not much signify, though in order to 
 thoroughly enjoy every plant, a span-roof is the most suitable 
 form. I would let it run from east to west, so that the one side 
 will have all the morning sun, and the other all the afternoon 
 sun. Glass sides are not indispensable, provided the angle is 
 rather sharp say 33 or 35. A flattish roof is objectionable on 
 account of drip. A stage of corresponding form to the roof 
 should be in the centre, and a broad shelf next the front will be 
 useful for low-growing plants, or for such that are deciduous. 
 This shelf will be a suitable habitation when they are at rest. 
 The house may either be heated with an ordinary flue covered in 
 with dished tiles or flags, or, with what is better, hot-water pipes, 
 with troughs (o hold water fixed upon them. 
 
 Contrivances for giving air should be provided abundantly, 
 both for letting in large supplies of fresh air, and for letting the 
 over-heated air escape out at the highest part of the roof. That 
 part may be made with a board a foot or more broad. At in- 
 tervals of a foot apart, the board should be cut into long squares, 
 and each of these hinged at one side, and a rack at the other. A 
 long iron rod connected by a lever with each of those hinged 
 pieces, should be so contrived as to turn round by a wheel and 
 pinion at one end. By turning this each hinged piece will rise 
 and thus give air and let out the heated air when necessary. To 
 
SOIL POTTING. 63 
 
 admit fresh air at the bottom or lower part of the house, I have 
 always found sliding panels in the wall the most convenient. 
 These are made by first fixing a frame of wood in the bricks, 
 and allowing it to project out sufficiently to allow the panel or 
 shutter to slide in a groove cut in the frame outside the wall. 
 The openings in the wall opposite the panels should be level with 
 the pipes or flue. The air then becomes warm in passing over 
 the heated surface, and is more beneficial to the plants. These 
 contrivances of course apply to a house devoted entirely to tem- 
 perate-loving Orchids, and approximating means should be 
 adopted where possible to a greenhouse where other kinds of 
 plants besides Orchids are grown. In such a house Orchids will 
 do well, if every other point of culture is properly attended to. 
 
 SOIL. There are two classes of Orchids distinguished by the 
 terms epiphytal and terrestrial that is, the first class grows on 
 trees, and the second in the ground. 
 
 Epiphytal Orchids require a compost of moss, fibry peat, 
 charcoal, and broken pots. The best sort of moss is sphagnum, 
 a white kind that grows in swampy places. Fibry peat may be 
 got from a dry common where Heath and the common Brake 
 abound. The moss should be chopped small, and the peat 
 broken into small pieces, and the fine particles sifted out ; what 
 remains in the sieve is that which must be used for Orchids. 
 The moss and peat in equal parts, two of each, and one of broken 
 charcoal, and one of broken pots, the whole well mixed together 
 in a moderately dry state. 
 
 For ground or terrestrial Orchids, chalky loam, sandy peat, and 
 leaf mould, in equal parts, are a good compost, though some thrive 
 well in strong loam ; and for others an addition of caky, dry 
 cowdung should be used. In my list, I shall mention such as 
 require these peculiar soils. The different materials for the various 
 composts ought to be obtained in the summer months, and laid 
 up ready for use in some place sheltered from excessive rains. 
 
 POTTIN&. The season for this operation is later than for stove 
 Orchids, because they do not start so early into growth. That 
 
 
CTPEIPEDIUM SPECTABILE. 
 
POTTING-. 65 
 
 is the criterion to guide the cultivator, He must observe when 
 the plants are beginning to grow and then pot them. A wide 
 rather shallow pot for epiphytal Orchids is the best, and if 
 ordered at the pottery costs no more than an ordinary pot. For 
 ground Orchids, the common-shaped pot is the best. If old pots 
 are used they should be scrubbed quite clean, and allowed to 
 become dry before using. New pots fresh from the pottery 
 should be put into water for an hour or two, then allowed to 
 become dry before using. For Orchids that grow on trees, the 
 pots should be thoroughly drained with broken pots. In fact, 
 the pots should be half filled with drainage. Over the drainage 
 place a layer of moss and charcoal. Let the size of the pots be 
 in proportion to the size of the plants. Having got ready the pot, 
 then take the plant and turn it out of its pot, and pick away all 
 the old stuff and drainage. If it does not come out easily, it is 
 very likely prevented doing so by the roots adhering to the side. 
 If so, pass a thin, long-bladed knife carefully between the root 
 and the pot. If that cannot be done without injuring the root, 
 then break the pot in pieces very gently, and such pieces of the 
 pot as hold the roots let them remain so, and put them altogether 
 into the new pot. Hold the plant in one hand and work in the 
 fresh compost with the other. Let the centre of the compost 
 be raised a little above the rim of the fresh pot, so that the plant 
 will stand as it were on a little hillock. Most likely it will be 
 rather loose in the compost at first ; and, therefore, to keep it 
 steady, put in some short sticks close to the pseudo-bulbs. 
 
 The potting season is a good time to cleanse the leaves of the 
 plants, and to clear off any scaly insects that may be 011 the leaves 
 and pseudo-bulbs. The best implement for this purpose is a 
 piece of thickish soft leather tied to a stick. This, when used, 
 does not injure the tenderest leaves. 
 
 Proceed thus with every plant till all that are beginning to 
 grow are finished. Then with a syringe wet the compost by 
 forcing the water on it strongly, which will press down the com- 
 post, rendering the surface compact and smooth. 
 
66 ON BLOCKS. 
 
 ON BLOCKS. To the uninitated nothing in culture seems more 
 strange than that flowering plants should grow and bloom on 
 dead logs of wood ; and it is one of the amateur's pleasures to 
 show his friends his plants on such blocks, and to explain to 
 them that such plants grow in their native wilds on branches of 
 trees. I was in company only this week with a traveller who 
 had been in Demerara, and, speaking of Orchids, he told me that 
 when a colony of white ants attack a tree they gnaw away the 
 lower part of the bark, which of course kills the tree, and on 
 that dead tree the Orchids immediately appear, and soon clothe 
 it with their foliage and blossom. He had seen many instances 
 of this remarkable fact when pushing through the uncultivated 
 forests of that part of the world. This fact is confirmed by the 
 state in which Orchids arrive in this country that have been 
 collected by botanists, and sent home. 
 
 The branches the Orchids are attached to are always in a dead, 
 dried-up state, showing that the Orchids are not true parasites 
 like our Mistletoe, which live and thrive in the tree, but true 
 epiphytes, which grow on the tree, drawing their nourishment 
 from the moist air and the dead leaves and twigs collected to- 
 gether in the forks of the, branches : hence the ingenious culti- 
 vator places his Orchids, or at least such as have been proved to 
 thrive best that way, upon blocks of dead wood. 
 
 Various kinds of wood have been tried for this purpose such, 
 for instance, as the hardy Acacia (Rolinia pseudo -acacia), Cork 
 branches cut into suitable lengths, Oak branches also, and large 
 branches or stems of the common Elder tree. I have placed the 
 various kinds in rotation according to what my experience as a 
 grower of Orchids for thirty years has proved their merits. 
 Excepting the Cork branches, I prefer the blocks naked that is, 
 without their bark, chiefly for the reason that the bark as it 
 decays is a harbour for woodlice, cockroaches, and other root- 
 eating insects. Having, then, procured the branches, cut them 
 into suitable lengths and thickness, according to the size of the 
 plants 5 then procuf e some copper wire of a moderate strength. 
 
IN BASKETS. g^ 
 
 Cut it into lengths, make a small loop at each end, and drive a 
 copper nail into the block at each end through the loops. The 
 block is then ready for the plant. Have ready some nice green 
 moss ; fix the plant on the upper part of the branch ; hold it 
 there, and place some of the moss around it, and then tie the 
 moss and the roots of the plants firmly to the branch with some 
 fine copper wire. With a pair of scissors clip off any loose moss, 
 leaving the plant in a neat tidy state. Then suspend it from the 
 roof, either on a long iron rod well painted, or on large-headed 
 copper nails driven into the rafters. The logs should hang down 
 at least eighteen inches from the glass, so that none of the leaves 
 will be close to it. Here they require no further care, excepting 
 syringing, on which point I shall speak more fully hereafter. 
 
 IN BASKETS. There are not many species that will thrive in 
 a greenhouse temperature that require baskets ; but as there are 
 some which the reader will find grouped together hereafter, I 
 must briefly describe the kind of basket that will grow them best, 
 and the mode of making those baskets. Rods of Hazel about 
 the thickness of a man's finger are as good as any, and most 
 easily procured. The baskets should be made of a size suitable 
 to the size of the plants : one four inches square is suitable for 
 the smallest plants, and two inches increase of size will answer for 
 the next size of plant, and so on as the plants are or become larger. 
 
 I prefer baskets made of rods of Hazel, or any other wood 
 most easily procured, to any other material. Kods well dried 
 are better than green ones, because they are not, so liable to 
 split. Cut the rods into suitable lengths ; pare the ends smooth, 
 and bore holes with a wire borer through each end of the rods> 
 Then cut some copper wire into four suitable lengths, make a 
 loop at one end of each so that it will not slip through the holes ; 
 then lay two rods parallel to each other, and upon them lay 
 three others. Nail these to the two rods, and then you have the 
 bottom of the basket in a form something like the bottom of a 
 raft. Turn this over, and then lay two other rods, to form the 
 other two sides. Draw the four wires through the holes at the 
 
68 WATERING. 
 
 four corners, and then slip rods alternately down the wires till 
 a sufficient number are laid to form the basket. Then bring the 
 wires together at the top, give them a twist or two, and the 
 basket is finished. Four inches are a sufficient depth for the 
 smallest size, and add more in proportion as the greater size is 
 required, making the rods at the sides and bottom thicker and 
 longer in proportion to the size. 
 
 In putting the plants in the basket follow this plan : Cover 
 the bottom with moss, then put in a layer of the rougher part of 
 the compost, and then place the plant in the middle, and fill 
 round it with the compost exactly the same as for those in pots. 
 Practice will make all this easy enough much easier than it 
 is for me to describe it. As soon as the plant is placed in the 
 basket give it a good watering, and hang it up in its place. 
 
 WATEKING. There is no point of Orchid culture that is so im- 
 portant as clue supplies of water. Two implements are necessary 
 viz., the garden-pot and the syringe, and I may add a third, 
 a cistern. The first is to be used for plants in pots, the second 
 for blocks, and the third for both blocks and more especially 
 baskets. In applying this necessary element, due regard must be 
 given to the state of the growth of the plants. In pots, water 
 should be given in small quantities at first, and always with the 
 chill off. When the growths are young give water round the 
 edges of the pots so as not to wefc the young shoots. After- 
 wards when the pseudo-bulbs are half swollen, give water more 
 freely, and when they are nearly full grown, give water abun- 
 dantly to cause large and free growth. Then, when the pseudo- 
 bulbs are fully grown, begin to reduce the quantity of water, and 
 gradually lessen it till symptoms of rest are perceptible. After 
 that only give sufficient to keep them from shrivelling. Let the 
 same ideas guide the cultivator in using the syringe, Plants on 
 blocks when growing should be syringed morning and evening ; 
 but when the growths are young, and the days short and dull, 
 syringe only in the morning. When the plants on log& are at 
 rest, once a-week will be sufficient to keep them from shrivelling. 
 
SUMMER TREATMENT. 
 
 69 
 
 Plants in baskets should be taken down, when growing, every 
 other day, and dipped in the cistern ; and many plants on logs will 
 be benefited by a bath in water occasionally in addition to the 
 daily syringing. 
 
 In dry, dusty, hot weather, a due supply of atmospheric 
 moisture should be attended to constantly. This may be attained 
 by wetting the floor and walls. In such weather the plants 
 will be greatly benefited by washing the leaves once a-week with 
 a wet sponge. This cleanses the surface and clears the pores of 
 the leaves, also keeps down various insects such as red spider, 
 scale, and thrips, and also gives a freshness and tidy appearance 
 to the plants. Nothing looks more untidy and careless than 
 seeing leaves covered with dust, green moss, or any other kind of 
 dirt. This sponging is beneficial at any time of the year ; only in 
 winter, or when the plants are at rest, squeeze the sponge very 
 hard before using, in order that no water may lodge in the hollows 
 of the leaves. When the plants are in bloom, then the syring- 
 ing must be dispensed with, as the flowers are easily spoiled by 
 the application of water over them. 
 
 SUMMER TREATMENT. During this period these plants should 
 be encouraged by a liberal supply of moisture and heat, in order 
 to make their growths. Those on blocks of wood should be well 
 syringed on the evenings after a sunny day. In dull weather a 
 slight sprinkling in the morning only should be given. If 
 severely syringed in such weather, there is great danger of damp- 
 ing off the young shoots and leaves. On this point, therefore, 
 the amateur must exercise his best judgment ; for though, on the 
 one hand, Orchids require plenty of moisture when in a growing 
 state, yet if, as is often the case in our climate, there succeed 
 several days in succession that are of a rainy damp character, the 
 giving water then is not needed at least not in abundance. 
 Water at the roots of such as are grown in pots and baskets 
 should be regulated by a similar rule that is, water most freely 
 in hot dry weather, but more gently in dark dull weather. The 
 proper application of water is of the greatest consequence to these 
 
70 AIB- GIVING. 
 
 plants. In watering, when the growths are very young, pour the 
 water on out of a very small spout round the edge of the pot, 
 only avoiding to wet the plants in the centre. When the new 
 pseudo-bulbs are swelling freely, then water may be given more 
 plentifully. 
 
 Air-giving. In summer air should be given to these hardy 
 Orchids freely. In fact, day and night in warm weather the 
 temperature of the open air will generally be amply sufficient for 
 them during June, July and August. In cold nights in the 
 early and later months, the heat of the day may be economised 
 by shutting up the house early in the afternoon, and not giving 
 air so soon in the morning. In fact, the same heat as will suit a 
 common Geranium or Fuchsia in a growing state will be amply 
 sufficient for the Orchids comprised in the list below. 
 
 Orchids in baskets should be often examined ; and if found 
 dry in the centre they should be dipped in tepid water till the 
 soil is thoroughly saturated. Weeds and insects during this 
 season abound most, and should be extirpated diligently. The 
 entire area of the house should also be kept sweet and clean no 
 decaying vegetable matter should be left in any corner or out-of- 
 the-way place in the house, The above points of culture during 
 summer are such as apply to such species as grow on blocks, in 
 baskets, and in pots, and belong to the grand division named 
 epiphytal growing on trees. The other division terrestrial^ 
 require during summer a similar treatment as to air-giving and 
 syringing ; but in watering, when they are growing freely, an 
 addition of an occasional watering with liquid manure will add 
 largely to the size of the foliage and bulbs : therefore let that be 
 given to them say once a-week. 
 
 Towards the end of the summer, less water from any source 
 must be given, gradually reducing the quantity. The end to be 
 aimed at is, to get them to rest by the time the leaves begin to 
 fall from the trees out of doors. I have sometimes and with 
 some sorts, placed them out of doors in dry weather, in order to 
 induce .a state of inaction, placing them near a south wall on 
 
WINTER TREATMENT. ^ 
 
 boards or slates. By this plan I have caused the DendroUum 
 speciosvm to flower, but this must be doue with caution and care 
 before the heavy rains set in. 
 
 WINTER TREATMENT. This season commences about the 
 middle of October, and continues till the end of March. During 
 all this time the plants must be carefully watched. Should any 
 appear to shrivel very much, they must have a small quantity of 
 tepid water to just keep them, both roots and stems, in a fresh 
 state. Terrestrial Orchids should have their decayed leaves 
 removed, and be placed where no water can reach the soil in the 
 pots. The earth though apparently dry will be moist enough to 
 keep the bulbs alive arid fresh. As soon as the spring arrives, 
 then get ready all the necessary soils, and, when required, fresh 
 blocks and baskets, and proceed to repot, reblock, and rebasket 
 the whole collection as soon as the symptoms of fresh growth are 
 perceptible. Give the interior a good cleansing, and also sponge 
 the leaves and stems quite clean. This will end the winter treat- 
 ment, and then commence the summer season. 
 
 As I intimated in the commencement of these papers, I shall 
 now give a list of such Orchids as will grow in a greenhouse 
 temperature. My space will not allow descriptions of the species, 
 I can only give their names. If the amateur desires to see that, 
 he must consult larger works on that point. I may here observe, 
 that most of the Orchids that are found in Guatemala, New 
 Holland, China, and other temperate climes, are proper denizens 
 of our greenhouses. 
 
 EPIPHYTAL ORCHIDS FOB POTS IN THE GREENHOUSE. 
 
 Aspasia epidendroides,Guateinala Cynoches ventricosum, Guate- 
 
 Batemania Colleyi do. mala. 
 
 Bifrenaria aurantiaca do. Cymbidium Finlaysonianum, 
 
 Brassiabrachiata do. China 
 
 macrostachya do. Cypripedium insigne, Nepaul 
 
 Cattleya Skinneri do. Cyrtochilum maculatumBussel- 
 
 Cynoches chlorochilum do. lianum, Guatemala 
 
LIST OF TEEEESTEIAL OECHIDS. 
 
 Dendrobium moniliforme, China 
 chrysanthum, Ne- 
 
 paul 
 
 densiflorum,* Nepaul 
 elongatum, N. Hoi. 
 linguseforme do. 
 secundum, var. China 
 speciosum, N. Hoi. 
 tetragonum, More. Bay 
 Epidendrum aurantiacum,Gua- 
 
 temala 
 macrochilum roseum do. 
 
 Epidendrum Stamfordianum, 
 
 Guatemala 
 Lselia acuminata do. 
 
 majalis, Oaxaca 
 Lycaste cruenta, Guatemala 
 
 Skinneri do. 
 Maxillaria Maclaii do. 
 Odontoglossum grande do. 
 Oncidium leucochilum do. 
 microchilum do. 
 sphacelatum do. 
 Renanthera coccinea, China f 
 
 TEEEESTEIAL OECHIDS TOE GEEENHOTJSES. 
 
 To be grown in pots in loam, sandy peat, and lumps of cow- 
 dung. 
 
 Acianthus caudatus, N.Holland 
 Bletia acutipetala, S. Carolina 
 
 hyacinthina, China 
 Calochilus campestris, N. Hoi, 
 
 paludosus do. 
 Cymbidium sinensis, China 
 xiphiifolium do. 
 Calophogon pulchellus,N. Amer. 
 Caladenia alba, New Holland 
 
 alata do. 
 
 coerulea do. 
 
 testacea do, 
 Corysanthes bicalcarata, do. 
 fimbriatus do. 
 Dipodium punctatum do. 
 
 Diseris aurea, New Holland 
 caudata do. 
 elongata do* 
 maculata do. 
 
 Disa grandiflora, C. of GI-. Hope 
 cornuta do. 
 
 graminifolia do. 
 
 Disperis cucullata do. 
 
 Capensis do. 
 
 secunda, C. of G. Hope 
 Eriochilus autumnalis, N. Hoi. 
 Eulophia barbata,C. of G. Hope 
 streptopetala, S. Amer. 
 longicornis, Cape of G. 
 ensata [Hope 
 
 * I have seen this species growing well in a greenhouse at Stratford. 
 + I have no doubt this Chinese Orchid will grow well, and flower better 
 and more freely in a warm greenhouse than in a higher temperature. 
 
LIST OF GEEENHOUSE OECHIDS INSECTS. 
 
 73 
 
 Glossodia major and minor, Pterostylis grandiflora, N. Hoi. 
 
 New Holland. 
 
 Lyperanthus suaveolens do. 
 Neottia plantaginea, Nepaul 
 Pogonia ophioglossoides, North 
 
 America 
 
 gibbosa do. 
 
 longifolia do. 
 
 ophioglossa do. 
 
 reflexa , do. 
 
 Thelymitra angustifolia do* 
 
 Prasophyllum elatum,N. Holland 
 flavum do. 
 striatum do. 
 
 Pterostylis concinna do. 
 
 Forsterii, N. Zealand 
 media, New Holland 
 venosa do. 
 
 GEEENHOTJSE OECHIDS.- 
 Barkeria spectabilis, Guatemala 
 Catesetum deltoideum do. 
 longifolium do. 
 Kussellianum do. 
 Cynoches ventricosum do. 
 Epidendruin rhizophorum do. 
 Gongora maculata, Demerara 
 truncata, Guatemala 
 
 -To be grown in baskets. 
 Marmodes lineata, Guatemala 
 Oncidium stramineum, Mexico 
 Suttonii, Guatemala 
 Peristeria pendula maculata, 
 
 Demerara 
 Sarcanthus paniculatus, China 
 
 rostratus do. 
 Stanhopea aurea, Guatemala 
 
 GREENHOUSE OECHIDS THAT GEOW BEST ON BLOCKS. 
 
 Cirrhopetalum Chinensis,China 
 Cyrtochilum filipes, Guatemala 
 maculatum, var. Rus- 
 sellianum, Guatemala 
 Dendrobium cucumerinum, 
 New Holland 
 teretifolium do. 
 
 Dinema paleaceum, Guatemala 
 Lselia peduncularis do. 
 Oncidium nebulosum do. 
 Pleurothallis marginata do. 
 Rodriguezia maculata do. 
 Sarcochilus falcatus, New 
 HoUand 
 
 INSECTS. In a cool moderate temperature Orchids are not 
 generally infested with insects. Sometimes, however, they appear, 
 and should be instantly destroyed in order to prevent their 
 increase, The insects that prevail most on them are the black 
 
74 THRIPS, WHITE SCALE, COCKROACHES, BED SPIDER. 
 
 thrips, the white scale, the cockroach, the slug, and red spider- 
 all bad enough when they prevail to any extent. 
 
 The thrips not only feeds upon the leaves, but exudes a glutin- 
 ous liquor, which stops up the pores of the leaves ; which, to- 
 gether with the swelling out of the sap, causes the leaves to 
 become blotched, gangrenous, and finally to perish. Frequent 
 smokings with tobacco will destroy the living insects, also a 
 dredging with Scotch snuff is a good agent for destroying them ; 
 but keeping the plants healthy and frequent spongings will 
 generally banish this pest. 
 
 White Scale. This insect is often found in large numbers on 
 imported Orchids. The far-famed Gishurst Compound is the 
 best destroying agent I have seen yet applied. I have, however, 
 cleared plants of the scale by a mixture of sulphur, soft soap, 
 and tobacco water. 
 
 Cockroaches arrive in this country amongst imported Orchids, 
 both in the egg state and alive. There are many remedies adver- 
 tised. Chase's Beetle Poison is as good as any. I have thinned 
 the numbers of them by placing a glass vessel half full of sweet- 
 ened beer in their tracks, and by searching for them in dark 
 nights with a bull's-eye lantern, and with a pronged fork impaling 
 them, or killing them with a flat piece of wood. I have been 
 dreadfully annoyed in some mornings ty find a nice young root 
 eaten away, or a promising flower-shoot half gnawed through, by 
 these insects ; and so will every grower of Orchids, unless he 
 wages war with them continually. So also with the white slug, 
 or any other species of that ilk. In moist houses they can travel 
 about easily; but with a little watchful care they may be traced 
 to their hiding-places and destroyed. 
 
 The Red Spider is a tiny enemy, feeding upon the young 
 leaves and turning them yellow. It may be kept under by 
 washing the flues or hot-water pipes with sulphur water. Frequent 
 sponging is also a preventive, and also a free use of the syringe 
 on affected plants. 
 
 These are all the insects that I need mention as being destruc- 
 
PEOPAGATION. 75 
 
 tive to orchideous plants, though sometimes the green fly will 
 attack the young leaves and flowering-shoots. They are, however, 
 easily got rid/ of by tobacco smoke ; only be careful in burning 
 it that it never burst out into a flame. 
 
 PEOPAGATION. My essay on the points of culture would 
 scarcely be complete without a few words on how to propagate 
 them. The epiphytal species may be increased by passing a 
 knife through the rhizoma, or rootstock. At the base of each 
 leaf or pseudo-bulb there is generally an incipient bud ; this bud, 
 when the rhizoma is cut in two, will swell, and finally produce 
 a shoot. The cut may be left where it is till the first pseudo- 
 bulb is perfected ; then, at the time of potting, the cut part with 
 its new young shoot may be separated from the parent plant and 
 potted in the usual way. Terrestrial Orchids are of two kinds 
 namely, such as are herbaceous, as, for instance, the Cypripe- 
 diums, and such as are bulbous like the Bletia. The first may 
 be divided into moderate-sized sections, and thus make good 
 plants at once. When potted, the second may be increased by 
 detaching at potting time one or more small tubers, potting these 
 into small pots for a season, and increasing the size of the pota 
 year by year as they advance in size. 
 
77 
 
79 
 
 HAEDY OECHIDEOTJS PLANTS. 
 
 IF any enterprising cultivator is desirous of mating himself 
 famous in the gardening world he should try to cultivate these 
 elegant plants : if successful he would be doing a great service 
 to his brethren by making known the means he has employed to 
 succeed. Many have tried and failed, I verily believe, for want of 
 perseverance. The means hitherto used for most of the British 
 kinds has been to take them up with balls when in flower, and 
 transplant them to the flower-border, where they soon die ; or to 
 put them in pots, and keep them in a cold frame, where they 
 languish for a year or two, and then appear no more. On the 
 other hand, some growers have been successful in growing some 
 ISfoith American species very well. I remember my friend, Mr. 
 Wm. Barnes, now a nurserymen at Peckham, exhibiting, some 
 years ago, a large pot of Cypripedium spectabile as well grown as 
 need to be wished, with nearly twenty fine blossoms expanded 
 at once. This instance shows that hardy Orchids can be grown 
 if only due pains be taken. I remember, also, when I was a 
 youth, obtaining a large plant of our English Lady's Slipper, 
 gathered near Settle, in Yorkshire ; it had upwards of a score of 
 what is technically called "rises" on it that is, shoots ; and 
 every shoot I made into a plant by division, and every one grew 
 and flourished as long as I had the care of them. The secret of 
 this success arose from the fact, that I took heed to plant the 
 
80 DESCBIPTION. 
 
 divisions in a similar soil to that in which the plant had grown 
 in its native habitat, and planting them also in a similar situa- 
 tion to that in which they grew wild. This method must be 
 adopted with every species in order to succeed in growing and 
 keeping them. But then, again, they must be removed when 
 perfectly dormant ; for their fleshy, tuberous, or fibrous roots are 
 so fragile when in a state of excitement, that to move them then is 
 almost certain and early destruction. It may be asked, How are 
 we to find them when no leaves are visible to show where the 
 roots are ? In answer I say, Look for them when in flower or 
 foliage ; mark the place securely, by driving a stake by their side, 
 and then search for and remove them when they are in a dor. 
 mant state. They are well worth this extra trouble. 
 
 Many of the species seed freely. Now, if the seed is gathered 
 when ripe, and sown in a similar soil and situation to that where 
 the parent plant grows, the seedlings will thrive well also. This 
 is not an untried plan, for I have raised them so, and bloomed 
 them too when they had acquired the proper age and strength. 
 
 By these two methods namely, collecting the roots when at 
 rest, and packing them in moist soil, and by gathering the ripe 
 seeds, a great number of foreign hardy Orchids might be sent 
 home by collectors ; but then the collector should also send us 
 some account of the localities each species was found in, and 
 what sort of soil the plants grew in. Some are found on dry, 
 chalky hills ; others in loamy pastures ; some in low thickets, and 
 others under lofty trees in forest land ; some in strong soil, others 
 among decayed leaf mould, and others in sandy peat. 
 
 Now, if we receive plants from these different soils and localities 
 of growth, and subject them to one uniform soil, is it likely that 
 they will thrive and bloom well ? Every experienced cultivator 
 of any kind of plants would immediately answer in the negative. 
 What, then ? Are we to give up the attempt to grow these singular 
 and beautiful plants ? I say, Most certainly not. Let us try again 
 and again, till success crowns our efforts. A partial success has 
 been achieved, as I have mentioned above, and it only needs a 
 
SOILS OE COMPOSTS. 81 
 
 determined spirit to make that success more complete. But, 
 says the reader, "Though I am quite willing, hay, desirous to try 
 my hand at growing them, how am I to proceed, and where am 
 I to procure the plants ? Is there any work on this particular 
 branch of horticulture ?" In answer to these reasonable queries 
 I reply, that in the following pages I will give the best in- 
 struction I can on their culture, giving a description of the dif- 
 ferent soils they require, the season and mode of potting or 
 planting, watering, shelter, summer and winter treatment, diseases, 
 insects, and a grouped list. Then, as to where they may be pro. 
 cured, the answer is, by collecting the British species, and by 
 purchasing exotic species of nurserymen. If the demand for them 
 should be great, enterprising dealers would be ready enough to 
 send out orders to collectors, in Europe and America, to look out 
 for and send home both roots and seeds ; and, lastly, the cultural 
 information about these plants is exceedingly meagre and scattered 
 through large botanical works, not likely to fall into the hands 
 of amateurs. There is no work or portion of a work on the' 
 subject that I know of, excepting Sowerby's "English Botany,' 
 and the " Botanical Magazine." 
 
 THE SOILS, OE COMPOSTS. Chalky Loam. This can only be 
 obtained from places where chalk forms the substratum. The top 
 spit will have sufficient chalk amongst it to serve the purpose. If 
 that sort of soil is at a considerable distance, some lumps of 
 chalk may be procured, and some fibry loam, the chalk be broken 
 into small pieces and well mixed with the loam. Let it lay up 
 in a heap for twelve months, and let be frequently turned over 
 to incorporate them well together. 
 
 Loam. Any pasture-ground will furnish suitable loam for the 
 kinds requiring it. A thin spit from the surface, laid up and 
 turned over till it is mellow, will suit such species as are found 
 in meadow pastures. Some few species are found in boggy 
 marshes : hence such a soil should be obtained and laid up in a 
 shady place till it is wanted. 
 
 Loam and Sandy Peat in equal quantities will be wanted for 
 a 
 
82 GHOWING- IN POTS. 
 
 a large number of species. Let a sufficient quantity be procured 
 and mixed together, and frequently turned to become amalga- 
 mated, mellowed, and fit for use, 
 
 Loam, Sandy Peat, and Leaf Mould. This compost will be 
 found necessary for most of the North American species, and also 
 for such as are found in English woods, and for some European 
 species. I have this compost prepared, mixed together and 
 turned over for a few months to mellow. 
 
 Excepting the boggy peat, which I think is best to be kept in 
 a shady place, all the other soils and composts should be placed 
 in an open part of the garden fully exposed to the sun, which has 
 a very beneficial effect upon them. There cannot be a greater 
 mistake made than that of placing soils for delicate plants under 
 trees, or behind a wall on the north side. Air and light are great 
 mollifiers of soils ; and the frequent turnings over of composts 
 have the beneficial effect of exposing every particle of the soil to 
 the air, heat, and light. I cannot press this part of the subject 
 too strongly. I believe great mischief has been done to plants 
 by using soils that have been laid up in improper places. Let 
 the composts, then, be placed on a plot of ground fully exposed 
 to the beneficial effects of the elements. 
 
 IN POTS. The advantages of growing hardy Orchids in pots, 
 are : 1st. The more complete command over the season of growth 
 and the season of rest. If they are in pots they may be watered 
 just as they require that element, giving them when first starting 
 into growth a moderate quantity, just sufficient to moisten the 
 soil, and gradually increasing it as the roots and foliage ad- 
 vance in action ; and when the bloom is over and the foliage 
 begins to decay, the water can be withheld and gradually reduced 
 till the plants are completely dormant. Then the soil should 
 be as nearly dry as possible, and kept so till the growing season 
 returns. 2ndly. When in pots they can be easily and safely 
 removed, and placed under shelter in severe weather ; for although 
 they are quite hardy, yet, being in pots, the frost would enter 
 through the sides of the pots and endanger the safety of the fleshy 
 
GEOWING IN BOEDEES POTTING- AND PLANTING. 83 
 
 tubers. In the meadows or thickets the turf or the fallen leaves 
 protect them sufficiently. The situation for the pots in summer 
 should be on the warm east border, and the pots should always 
 be plunged up to the rim. When at rest remove them into a 
 cold frame or pit, and shelter them by a covering on the glass in 
 hard frost. Keep the glass on in wet weather, but draw it quite 
 off on dry, fine days. 
 
 IN BORDEES. Some of the stronger-growing species, however, 
 will thrive well in a border prepared for them, with the proper 
 soil for each species. This border should be formed with boards 
 or slates at the sides, raised six or eight inches above the general 
 level of the ground ; and the bed of soil should be well drained 
 and kept an inch or two below the edgings. Then when the 
 leaves are decayed, the border may be covered either with boards 
 or hoops, and oiled canvas, to throw off the heavy autumn and 
 winter rains ; for heavy rain, and consequently saturated soil, 
 are certain death to these lovely plants. 
 
 Potting and Planting. As will be easily surmised, the best 
 season for repotting is just when the buds begin to swell. As 
 soon as that is perceived, prepare the different soils for them by 
 placing a sufficient quantity under cover to dry and become 
 moderately aired. Prepare also larger clean pots and plenty of 
 drainage. Broken unburnt limestone makes a good drainage 
 for kinds that require chalky loams. For others, broken garden- 
 pots will be better. Such as are in pocs should be brought from 
 their winter quarters and placed handy near the potting-bench, 
 then drain several sized pots to be ready, and then carefully turn 
 the balls out of the pots. Pick away quite as carefully the old 
 drainage and part of the soil, being careful not to wound the 
 tubers or fibres. All dead roots, of course, should be removed. 
 Then place some rougher parts of the compost over the drain- 
 age, and upon that a sufficient quantity of soil to bring the ball 
 nearly level with tlie rim of the pot. If the plant is strong, and 
 evidently larger than it was at the last shifting, then give it a 
 larger pot 5 but if not, one of the same size, but a fresh one, will 
 
84 POTTING AND PLANTING PROPAGATION. 
 
 answer. Fill the fresh compost in round the ball, cover the 
 top of it about half an inch, or in proportion to the size of 
 the plant ; but beware of deep potting, for that is injurious tt 
 the plant. When the pot is full press the new soil down gently 
 and give the pot a smart rap or two on the bench. Level tha 
 soil, and then that plant is finished potting ; place it on one side, 
 and take the next in hand ; and so proceed till all are finished. 
 Then replace them in the frame, or plunge them in the raised 
 border ; but give no water for several days till the buds begin to 
 push through the soil. Then water in such proportion as the 
 plants require. 
 
 The management of such as are grown in borders in respect to 
 removing the soil is rather difficult, for the tubers are so tender 
 that if once bruised the plant is irrecoverably injured. The only 
 way is to open a trench at one end, and with a small fork 
 gradually pick away the soil till a plant is undermined, then 
 carefully lift it up and place it in a box as gently as possible, 
 keeping it covered till replanted, and so proceed till there is a suffi- 
 cient space emptied of plants. Let then the old soil, or at least 
 a part of it, be taken away, and a sufficient quantity of fresh 
 compost put in to fill up the space. Then take up more plants, 
 and fill up the new portion of the bed and replant immediately. 
 jBy so doing the roots will be but a short time exposed to the air ; 
 the least shrivelling by being exposed injures the succeeding 
 year's growth. Proceed in this manner till the whole collection 
 is replanted, filling up the end of the bed with the plants reserved 
 in the box for that purpose. Then give a gentle watering to 
 settle the soil about the plants. They will require no further 
 care, excepting keeping clearfof weeds and a constant look-out for 
 insects to destroy them. 
 
 PROPAGATION. Sy Seeds. Many species of these hardy 
 Orchids seed freely, and ripen it perfectly. Save the seed as 
 soon as it is ripe, and fill some wide shallow pans with the proper 
 compost. Scatter the seed upon the surface, and cover it with a 
 very thin layer of moss. Keep this just moist constantly by 
 
PROPAGATION BY SEEDS AND DIVISION. 85 
 
 sprinklings of tepid water, given either by the syringe or a fine- 
 rose water-pot. Gentle showers will do no harm. If the seed 
 ripens as early as June it should be sown immediately ; but if 
 it is perfected later, gather it and sow it in March following. 
 Place the pans in a cold frame to protect them from heavy 
 showers, and shade them from bright sunshine till the seedlings 
 have made some progress ; then inure them gradually to bear 
 the opeii air and full light. Keep them in those pans through 
 the first winter and second summer, protecting them from 
 hard frost, and allow them to rest in winter the same as 
 older plants. In the spring of the second year they should be 
 separated and planted singly, either in small pots, or, which is 
 better, in a border prepared as described above. "With care 
 bestowed upon them they will flower the third or fourth, year. 
 If the grower is successful in raising a quantity of the best 
 species, he will be enabled to sell the surplus, or exchange them 
 with others for such species as he does not possess. 
 
 By Division. The tuberous-rooted species when they thrive 
 send forth side-shoots, and these become plants. At the time of 
 repotting or replanting these young tubers may be parted from 
 the old plants, but they must be handled very carefully, so as 
 not to bruise them in the least; for, as I observed before, a 
 wound, be it ever so slight, is fatal. Observe, also, to pot each 
 species in the same kind of soil as the old plants grow in ; also 
 take care to expose the tubers as short a time as possible to the 
 open air, for these small tubers suffer more from being dried even 
 than the larger ones. Pot them carefully, and label every one 
 with its proper name ; so that, if you wish to exchange with 
 your neighbours, you can always do so safely, though your 
 plants may be at rest and dormant. Some kinds the Cypri- 
 pediurn, for instance have bundles or fascicles of long fleshy 
 roots ; and the buds are placed in a cluster, with these roots 
 radiating from them. To propagate such rooted plants is a nice 
 operation. A sharp knife must be used, and the blade put 
 between the buds without bruising them. Let it pass through 
 
86 SUMMER TREATMENT WATERING AND SHELTER. 
 
 the connecting part, or rliizoma, and no lower, or the roots will 
 be cut also. Then with the hand gently separate the parts cut 
 off, and the roots will divide away from each other without 
 injury. Eepot both the parent and the offspring immediately 
 in proportionate-sized pots, and cultivate afterwards in the usual 
 way. 
 
 SUMMER TREATMENT. This period of the culture of those 
 interesting plants commences as soon as they begin to grow, and 
 ends when they go to rest. The summer operations consist of 
 watering, sheltering, tying up the flowers, weeding, and stirring 
 the surface of the soil when that becomes hardened and grown 
 over with lichens. On each of those points I shall briefly 
 write, in order to show the amateur the proper way to conduct 
 them. 
 
 Watering. This necessary operation, especially for such as are 
 grown in pots, I have already adverted to ; but I may remark in 
 addition that the quantity required should be given according to 
 the need of plants. In the early months of the year, whilst the 
 vegetation is slow and young, very small supplies of water will 
 be required, and that at wide intervals. If kept in this early 
 stage of growth very wet, the young roots, and probably the 
 young shoots also, will damp off, and the plants will perish : 
 therefore, let the surface of the soil become dry before water is 
 given, and then only just sufficient to wet the soil. Let this 
 water be absorbed before the next is given. As the foliage 
 advances in growth more water may be given ; and when the 
 leaves are fully expanded and the blooms beginning to open, then 
 a liberal supply must be given. If gentle showers are falling let 
 the plants have the benefit of them ; but at all seasons shelter 
 them from heavy continuous rains. Some strong-growing species 
 will thrive better with a watering now and then of weak liquid 
 manure, to which add a handful of quicklime to every gallon. 
 This destroys worms and slugs in both a young and full-grown 
 state. 
 
 Skelter. If tho plants aro in pots and in a cold frame, the 
 
SUMMER TBEATMENT TYIN&, WEEDING, AND STIREING. 87 
 
 appropriate shelters are glazed lights. These should be put on 
 during heavy falls of rain or hail, or even strong gales of wind ; 
 but, then s air should be given by tilting the lights behind closed 
 frames in wet weather being very unhealthful to these somewhat 
 tender plants. 
 
 Tying. As the flower-stems advance in height neat sticks 
 should be carefully thrust into the soil, keeping a sufficient distance 
 off the fleshy tubers. Tie with soft bast mat, and tie it loosely, 
 eo that the stems will not be strangled, and spread out the 
 flower-stems when numerous that each may stand clear by itself. 
 Nothing looks so slovenly as flower-stems huddled together in 
 bundles like a birch broom, and, besides being ill-looking, the 
 plants sustain a serious injury when the stems are tied so closely 
 together. The leaves do not obtain light, and, consequently, 
 turn yellow and drop off a misfortune that prevents the 
 increase in size of the plant. 
 
 Weeding and Stirring the Soil. The best management of 
 weeds is never to allow them to advance beyond the seed-leaf. 
 The labour of weeding is lessened thereby, and the nutriment 
 of the soil saved for its legitimate purpose the support of 
 the cultivated plants, and more especially the benefit will be felt 
 by plants that have to draw their support from the limited 
 pasture of soil contained in pots. The soil in pots by frequent 
 waterings becomes crusted on the surface, closing it against the 
 admission of air and heat to the roots ; hence it is benefited 
 largely by stirring the surface whenever it becomes hard. A 
 small stick is as good an implement as any for this purpose, oare 
 being taken not to disturb or injure the roots or stems in per- 
 forming this operation. Besides opening the soil to the kindly 
 influences of the atmosphere, it gives a freshness and neat- 
 ness to the collection, and prevents the growth of mosses and 
 lichens. In the autumn this stirring of the surface by admitting 
 air to the interior of the soil assists the ripening of the tubers 
 and fibrous fleshy roots, and thus hastens the period of rest. 
 
 Let all the points of summer daily culture be duly attended 
 
88 WINTER CULTUREDISEASES, 
 
 to, and it will be found that the plants will perform their 
 functions, and will abundantly reward the cultivator for his 
 trouble and attention. 
 
 If any of these hardy Orchids are cultivated in a bed or border^ 
 the summer culture in regard to the above particulars of culture 
 is nearly the same. The only difference will be the kind of 
 shelter to give them. The best shelter is that formed with 
 bended hoops and either garden mats or oiled canvass, the latter 
 being the best for keeping off heavy rains. A shelter from the 
 burning rays of the sun acting too powerfully upon the soil may 
 be necessary ; and the best shelter for that purpose, as I have 
 repeatedly proved, is green moss. A bed covered with that non- 
 conductor gives it a fresh and lively appearance, and adds 
 largely to the health of the plants. 
 
 WINTEE CULTURE. The operations for winter culture are 
 few and easily done and attended to. The plants in pots should 
 be placed under the shelter of a pit or frame, and the lights 
 should be kept on in wet weather to keep off the rain, and thus 
 keep the plants in a quiescent state. I should recommend the 
 plunging the pots up to the rim in coal ashes or sand, and in 
 very hard frost the glass should be covered with mats ; but 011 
 all fine days the lights should be drawn off entirely, and, in wet 
 muggy weather, propped up behind, to allow the escape of damp 
 air. Of course, all the decayed leaves must be cleared away, and 
 any other substances that would give out foul smells. Such as 
 may be growing in a bed or border should be protected from 
 slushing rains and frost, by covering each plant with a small 
 hillock of dry ashes, to be removed when the growing season 
 commences. If a bed has been formed as I recommended above, 
 the plants in it when at rest will be all the better if sheltered 
 from heavy rains, frost, and snow, by covering the bed with 
 hoops and oiled canvass. Let it be remembered that these rare 
 plants are well worthy of every care. 
 
 DISEASES. The only disease that I know of that attacks 
 hardy Orchids is a kind of dry rot. The same disease is found 
 
DISEASES INSECTS. 89 
 
 in the solid bulbs of the Tulip and the Crocus, and it is equally 
 fatal in all: there is no remedy for it. If the leaves stop 
 growing the disease has begun. Pull up the plants attacked 
 with it and expel them from the premises. I do not know 
 that it is contagious, but I would rather be without such 
 dangerous subjects. 
 
 INSECTS. The most noxious are the red spider, grubs, slugs, 
 and worms. The first thrives best in hot dry weather : there- 
 fore the opposite is preventive. If they are found on the leaves 
 of the plants and such are in pots, lay the pots on one side 
 and give the leaves a very severe syringing, which will wash 
 off the insects, webs, eggs and all, and effectually relieve the plants. 
 To prevent their return dust the leaves with flowers of sulphur. 
 
 Grubs in new soils are often rather numerous, and they feed 
 on the young stems just beneath the surface of the soil. There 
 they must be sought for, and, when found, destroyed. 
 
 Slugs may be traced by the slime they leave to their retreats, 
 and extracted from thence and put to death. Lime water is 
 certain death to them if their concealment cannot be found. 
 
 Worms do not feed upon the plants, but they disarrange the 
 soil, and render it unfit for food for the plants. Lime water^ 
 again, is the agent that will destroy these intruders. The best 
 time to apply it is in mild dewy evenings, so congenial to the 
 migrations of slugs and worms. All these insects must be con- 
 stantly warred with to prevent them injuring the leaves of the 
 plants ; for if the leaves are not kept healthy, and thus able to 
 perform their proper functions, the plants will soon fade away 
 and perish. 
 
 It now only remains to me to complete my essay on Hardy 
 Orchids to give a list of them ; and I shall group them under the 
 different soils that each group requires to grow them in. 
 
 CHALKY SOIL. 
 
 Aceras anthropophora (man bearing) 
 Herminium monorchls (one-bulbed) 
 Orchis fusca (brown) 
 
LISTS OP OECHIDS. 
 
 Orchis hircina (goat) 
 
 Smithii (Smith's) 
 simia (ape) 
 
 tephrosanthos (ash-coloured -leaved) 
 Ophrys arachnoidea (cobweb) 
 
 aranifera (spider-beaiinj) 
 
 ciliata (fringed) 
 
 cornuta (horned) 
 
 exaltata (lofty) 
 
 fucifera (drone-bee-bearing) 
 
 grandiflora (large-flowering) 
 
 muscifera (fly-bearing) 
 
 tabanifera (dun-fly-bearing) 
 
 TURPY LOAM. 
 Gymnadenia albida (whitish) 
 
 conopsea (gnat-bearing) 
 viridis (green) 
 
 Listera cordata (heart-leaved) 
 Neottia nidus-avis (birds' -nest) 
 spiralis (ladies' traces) 
 Orchis latifolia (broad-leaved) 
 mono (buffoon) 
 ustulata (scorched) 
 
 CHALKY LOAM AND SANDY PEAT. 
 Anacamptis pyramidalis (pyramidal) 
 Epipactus latifolia (broad-leaved) 
 
 palustris (marsh) 
 
 Gymnadenia conopsea alba (white gnat) 
 cucullata (hooded) 
 odoratissima (most fragrant) 
 Habenaria hyperborea (northern) 
 
 bracteata (bracted) 
 Neottia cernua (drooping) 
 Nigritella angustifolia (narrow-leaved) 
 Orchis acuminata (sharp-pointed) 
 globosa (globose) 
 longicornis (long-horned) 
 militaris (military) 
 papilionacea (butterfly- winged) 
 sulphurea (sulphur-coloured) 
 
LISTS OF OBCHIDS. 93 
 
 Orchis undulata (waved) 
 Platanthera bifolia (two-flowered) 
 Pogonia divaricata (straggling) 
 pendula (drooping) 
 
 TURFY LOAM, SANDY PEAT, AND LEAF MOULD, 
 Calypso borealis (northern) 
 
 americana (American) 
 Corallorrhiza innata (hiborn) 
 
 multiflora (many-flowered) 
 odontorhiza (tooth-rooted) 
 Cypripedium spectabile (showy) 
 
 spectabile album (white-flowered) 
 spectabile incarnatum (flesh-coloured.) 
 Liparis liliifolia (Lily-leaved) 
 Habenaria ciliata (fringed) 
 cristata (crested) 
 fimbriata (fringed) 
 lacera (torn) 
 orbiculata (orbiculate) 
 psychodes (cold) 
 spectabilis (showy) 
 Neottia sestivalis (summer) 
 
 autumnalis (autumnal) 
 Ophrys apifera (bee-bearing) 
 Orchis ciliata (fringed) 
 
 coriophora (bug-bearing) 
 Cyrillii (Cyrill's) 
 globosa (globose) 
 latifolia alba (broad-leaved white) 
 laxiflora (loose- flowering) 
 maculata (spotted) 
 mascula (male) 
 Nicodemi (Nicodemus's) 
 palustris (marsh) 
 parviflora (small-flowered) 
 provincialis (province) 
 quadripunctata (four-spotted) 
 Rivenii (Riven's) 
 saccata (pouched) 
 sambucina (Elder-scented) 
 undulata (waved-leaved) 
 variegata (striped) 
 
IIST3 OF OHCHID3. 
 
 SANDY TIBET PEAT. 
 
 Cypripedium acaule (stemless) 
 
 arietinum (ram's-head-formed) 
 calceolus (ladies' slipper) 
 candidum (white -flowered) 
 guttatum (spotted) 
 macranthum (largest) 
 parviflorum (small-flowered) 
 pubescens (downy) 
 purpuratum (purple) 
 ventricosum (bellied) 
 
 Habenaria blepliariglottis (eyelash-tongued) 
 
 TIJRTT BOGGY PEAT. 
 Cepb.alantb.era ensifolia (sword-leaved; 
 
 rubra (red-flowered) 
 Liparis Leesellii (Lsesell's) 
 Correana (Correa's) 
 cordata (heart-leaved) 
 ovata (ovate-leaved) 
 Maiaxfc ophioglossoides (Ophioglossis-li^o) 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 Printed by Truscott, Son, & Simmons, 
 Suffolk-lane, City. 
 
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