LIBRAE UNIVERSITY C' CALIFOWN'A SAN DUOS A CRUISE MEDITERRANEAN GLIMPSES OF THE OLD WORLD THROUGH THE EYES OF A BUSINESS MAN OF THE NEW. BY W. M. HOYT. CHICAGO: POOLE BROS., PRINTERS, 1894- PREFACE. To MY FRIENDS, GREETING: At the suggestion and earnest request of some of my friends, I have consented to the publication, in book form, of the letters that I wrote while on our Oriental trip. Through the kindness of my friend, Eugene J. Hall, these letters were published in the " Grocers' Criterion " during last winter and spring. My motive for writing these letters was that my family and inti- mate friends might, in a measure, enjoy some of the pleasures and benefits of a trip of great historic interest. To my son, Phelps, I am indebted for some of the results of his camera; to my good wife, for her encour- agement and approval; to Poole Brothers, printers, for superior work in illustrations; to Eugene J. Hall for looking after the details and business features of the publication. As to my time and the expense of publication, my reward will be ample, should my friends accept this token of friendship and find in its perusal the pleasure that I could wish for. Yours truly, Christmas, No. I. THE FUERST BISMARCK. MID-OCEAN, Feb. 6, 1894. EUGENE J. HALL, Editor: Dear Friend: AGREEABLY to promise I I will devote some of my spare time to keeping you posted on my trip and whereabouts. Possibly j*L. 3,160 Feb. 9 20 Algiers 410 11 58 Genoa 524 15 58 Aiaccio (Corsica) 155 18 12 Alexandria (for Cairo and the Pyramids).. Jaffa (for Jerusalem) 1,250 263 22 Mar. 2 173 80 Smyrna 686 7 24 Constantinople 288 9 88 Athens 354 14 33 Malta 550 17 12 Messina 155 18 12 Palermo .... 120 19 12 Naples 167 20 130 Genoa .... 350 26 16 From Genoa Mar 27 In New York 4,065 Apr. 6 12.437 It will be seen that this excursion embraces the principal places of a region whose every inch of soil abounds with stirring reminiscences of ancient lore and history, regions rich with magnificent monuments of past grandeur and countless treasures of art. her room and rolled into her bunk, 2x6, remarking: " just think of it, two months on ship-board and such a bed as this." I have no doubt this sentiment was felt if not expressed by nearly all the passengers, as the contrast between a large comfortable bed and a coffin-shaped berth is indeed very great. However, the A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 9 close fit is entirely practical and in rough weather is absolutely necessary, as no matter how much the ship rolls the occupant of the berth is held fast. It requires very little to excite mirth on ship-board, and it was very laughable when our ship gave a lurch to see the passengers on deck slide out of their chairs and across the deck in regular toboggan style. Soup, food, dishes, good clothes and fine feathers all found a safe landing place at the ship's rail. It was announced yesterday morning that we had increased our passenger list the night before and much interest was manifested as to whom, how and where. It was soon learned that one of our Italian emigrants, of whom we have quite a number, had given birth to a boy. A purse of about fifty dollars was soon raised and given to the mother. Several of our motherly passengers set about making suitable clothing, and with the name I gave him, " Second Bismarck," he may live to appre- ciate the advantages of first seeing daylight on board a ship on the Atlantic. We may say he's in luck. To-day we passed two of the islands of the Azores, which of course was quite an event; the first island is known as Flors. We approached sufficiently near to get a good view. The southern point is very high and almost perpendicular. Farther back we could see green fields and numerous farm-houses. At the eastern side, where the island slopes gradually to the water's 10 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. edge, we saw quite a village, of which a church was the most prominent feature. Who can fathom the mysteries of the deep? The upheaval in mid-ocean of this mass of rock and soil is indeed strange. We hope on our arrival at Gibraltar to get news from home and the world in general. Nine days seem a long time to be in ignorance of the news and passing events of the world. Very likely the tariff and income-tax bills have been passed and become laws. I hope so, as the sooner the matter is settled, the better it will be for business and the people in general. While I am not disposed to discuss political questions, I may be pardoned for referring to a few matters that concern us so deeply. Certain it is that we have had enough of special legislation for the promotion of prosperity and wealth. When we recognize the law of supply and demand, practice economy, reduce taxation and dispense with reckless appropriations, then we may hope for permanent prosperity. The old way of "slow and sure " will be found the best. We have tried pro- tection and legislation for profit, and the result has been over-supply, over-competition, financial panic and gen- eral stagnation in our industries. Former high scale of wages brought to our shores from the old countries vast numbers of laborers and artisans, who came into competition with our native born, and the result is over-supply. It is not strange A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. II that sufficient work cannot be obtained to keep em- ployed the great surplus that we find upon our hands. It could not be otherwise. The former great strength of labor unions had much to do with bringing about this condition, and what was at one time apparent strength and power must, for some time to come, prove weakness and failure. Had they avoided extremes the conditions would have been different. Let us practice moderation in all things. Booms and unnatural in- flations are things of the past. Our experience should prove beneficial and lasting. As for the unemployed and the suffering of the poor that are with us, we must not be indifferent to their welfare. We must give freely of what we have and do all that lies in our power to furnish honest employment. While our country has a great and prosperous future we cannot expect our people to furnish employment for the surplus labor of the world. We are taking good medicine, and may we hope for an early convalescence. No. II. GIBRALTAR. ON THE MEDITERRANEAN, Feb. 10, 1894. Previous to retiring on the night before reaching Gibraltar, we, the passengers on this grand ship, resolved that we would rise with the sun and get our first view of the coasts of Spain and Africa. True to 12 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. our resolves, most of us were on deck early, and we realized more than our expectations. Good weather still continued. With a clear sky, bright sun and balmy atmosphere, we realized that we were in another world. The coast of Spain is mountainous, with valleys inter- spersed here and there. Wherever soil existed vege- tation was conspicuous. The small city we first saw was Trafalgar, nestled close to the water's edge. Soon GIBRALTAR. thereafter we passed the old Spanish fort and were in view of Gibraltar, which stands out in bold relief. At 10 o'clock, promptly on time, we cast anchor and were in the harbor of Gibraltar, where we found dories, or big row-boats, to take us ashore. Soon we were on British soil and in the strongest fortification of the world, the envy of all nations. Soldiers soldiers every- where Scotch in their kilts, with bare legs, and English A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 13 and Irish, all of fine physique and ruddy complexions. The streets, though full of life and animation, were as clean and tidy as our boulevards at home. The shops were small, and nearly all nations were represented, Moorish being quite conspicuous. The buildings were two-story, nearly all of stone construction, small and compact. The streets were not wide and sidewalks so very narrow that the entire business streets were occu- pied by pedestrians. " Nearly every other man you meet is a donkey" donkeys are everywhere, laden with everything, except possibly cannon of large calibre. Donkeys are a great institution in this part of the world. They must be endowed with true Christian fortitude, so meek and faithful that they bear their burdens uncomplainingly. If they get anything to eat, it is very little, and that little such as nothing else could exist upon. Gibraltar rises on one side almost perpen- dicularly from the waves, to the height of 1,300 feet. It is three miles long and about a half mile wide. It has been in the possession of England for many years, and has resisted every effort made to capture it or silence its tremendous batteries. As to the fort, this mass of rock, outwardly so harmless in appearance, is all undermined and tunneled with wonderful ingenuity and at enormous expense. It contains over 2,000 cannon. In time of peace 5,000 English soldiers are stationed there, but there are stores and water cisterns 14 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. which would supply a garrison of 150,000 men during two years. Two fortifications and tunneled galleries we inspected by getting a permit from the military secretary's office. We traveled a full mile or more through these tunnels, and while very interesting, it was also very fatiguing, as they wind onward and upward. The views we got from the numerous openings where cannon are placed were very fine. These openings also furnish light for the various galleries. The extreme end of the rock facing the sea is called " Europa Point," crowned by a lighthouse and defended by strong bat- teries. The pride of Gibraltar is the Alameda, a garden laid out in charming style and commanding fine views of the Strait and the coast of Africa. This is the fashionable resort, where the spectacle presented by the contrast of people at this extreme point of Europe is novel and curious. The garden abounds with ample shade and a great variety of flowers, which, at this sea- son of the year, are in full bloom. From Gibraltar we drove over to Spain, passing what is called the neutral ground, a strip of land I should judge to be a half mile wide. On either side are the military the red coats on the south and the blue coats on the north. Here comparisons are odious. The English, of fine form and so well uniformed, show the strength and position of the United Kingdom, while the soldiers of Spain are inferior in size and bearing, and their seedy uniforms are A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 15 in keeping with the present standing of their govern- ment. Passing through the Spanish custom-house, where all the Spanish people are searched very carefully, we found our way to the arena, where bull fights are in vogue in certain seasons of the year mostly carnival seasons. The amphitheatre has a large seating capacity, the seats being stone with roof over them. The arena is not covered, thus affording ample daylight. This trip was hardly worth the time and fee it cost. The time spent in passing through the streets, looking into the shops and sizing up their occupants, was instructive if not agreeable. The houses of one story in height may be occupied for sleeping purposes, but, as far as we could judge, no other, as women and children were in their doorways and on the sidewalks in great numbers. Oh! but the smell of garlic or some other vegetable of Spanish origin was intolerable. Here " every other man you meet is a measly dog," pedigree unknown, but in keeping with all else we saw of degenerate Spain. To-morrow we are due at Algiers, from whence you may again expect to hear from me. No. III. ALGIERS. ON THE MEDITERRANEAN, Feb. 14, 1894. After leaving Gibraltar on the evening of the gth inst., we sailed for Algiers, arriving at that picturesque A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 17 city early Sunday morning, the nth. Fine weather continued and our sail was very enjoyable. We ran close to the African coast and the shore was visible a good part of the time. Early Sunday morning, as the machinery had ceased working, I awoke and arose to get my first glimpse of beautiful Algiers. The lights were still on and I could plainly see the streets and almost the entire city, which was strikingly attractive under electric light. Few towns on the Mediterranean can boast of such a beautiful situation. The native quarter towers over the modern town, rising tier above tier to the Casbah (citadel). This part, called the old town, has curious native streets, some not more than four feet wide and fearfully steep. 'Tis here that the Arabs abide in great swarms. The streets are clean and abound in shops and beggars; the shops resemble holes in the wall, as I should call them, all the way from four to twelve feet square, where is kept for sale about everything that is worn or consumed. While the Arabs predominate, there is a motley population of Berbers, Turks, Moors, Bedouins, Negroes, French and Maltese. Algiers has of late become a great resort for invalids to winter in, on account of the lovely climate, which from October to March is as warm as our average summers. The French quarter is in the lower part of the city, where a broad macadamized boulevard runs for miles along the bay, bounded on one side by fine private houses, 18 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. splendid hotels, and shops much like those of Rue de Rivoli in Paris. One is reminded of Paris constantly while in these quarters, by the attractive shops on the Palais Royale style. On the boulevard are numerous cafs where the fashionable world congregates to eat, drink and enjoy the beautiful view of the Mediterra- nean. The three days allotted to us here were full of interest and enjoyment. Early Sunday morning, before breakfast, bills were distributed on shipboard, in part as follows: "Real Spanish bull fight." "Toros in Argel." " Arenas of Algiers." "Same as given at Seville and Madrid by the champion Matadors dil Cartel, El Gallo Fabrilo." " The celebrated Matadors will fight five splendid thoroughbred Spanish bulls of His Excellency the Duke of Veragua, etc., etc., Sunday, February nth. Tickets, 10 francs or $2.00. Can be obtained of Cook's representative, who is on board." Here was a Sunday program gotten up largely for the benefit of our pas- sengers. What presumption to think that our passen- ger list of good, moral, if not all Christian people would attend a bull fight and especially on Sunday. The projectors were not disappointed. The tickets were all sold, and, so far as I could see, all our passen- gers were present, unless the Bishops, who were of our passengers, were constrained to deny themselves of the opportunity offered, for example's sake. In due time we were there and every seat was soon taken, as also A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 19 the available space for standing. The audience was represented by the best class, and was very enthusias- tic. Following the opening by the band, the procession, consisting of two mounted matadors and a half dozen others on foot, entered the arena, After marching around the arena they retired in the midst of great cheering by the immense crowd present. The mata- dors or fighters are men of fine form and very showy in their fighting outfits of close-fitting vests, short trousers of bright colors, orna- mented with gold and silver trimmings too fancy for anything except bull-fighting, jj Thus arrayed they were in readiness for the bull, which was BULL FIGHT, ALGIERS. soon driven into the ring, where the eight fighters with their red blankets waving, put the bull in the frantic humor desired. With head down he would make a pass at one and then another, always at the blanket, which the fighter would hold to one side at arm's length. Passing one he would rush at another, and so on until well nigh exhausted. There is no especial danger of injury to the matador, and in case he gets into close quarters he leaps over the board railing or fence, where he is beyond the danger line. Often 2O A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. they had not a moment to spare, as the bulls were madly rushing upon them, and with such force that their horns would strike and penetrate the boards. The greatest feature of agility is in fastening the darts or lances in their hides and afterward withdrawing them, when the bulls are driven away and "live to fight another day." The last bull to enter was the fight to the finish. Then for the first time two matadors, mounted on excellent horses which were blindfolded in one eye, dashed into the arena. The real fight had begun bull, matadors and horses seemed only too eager for the fray. The large and hitherto enthusiastic audience was breathless, as it were. Each matador had a long pole with lance, and the feat to be accomplished was to thrust it through the hide of the bull and leave the pole perpendicular therein. This was accomplished by one and was a failure with the other. The next daring feat was to withdraw it, which was successfully accomplished. But for the horns of the bull being covered and made blunt, the poor horses would have lost their lives, as several times they got badly punched but not disabled. The finishing feat is when the mata- dor with sword in hand is to take the bull's life. This was done after three attempts, when the poor bull, who was handicapped throughout, must die to meet the cruel and vicious sentiment of a large part of the audience. The closing scene is when four horses A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 21 caparisoned in gay colors are driven into the arena and draw the dead animal from view. I can understand why people may visit bull fights from curiosity, but it is lamentable that in any civilized country they should be patronized for amusement or pleasure. In no country are they now in vogue as in the past, and the cruelty has been greatly diminished. The drives about Algiers are very interesting and the roads everywhere as perfect as could be imagined. We enjoyed an excursion to Blidah, two hours by rail, and from there to the gorge of the Chiffa in the Atlas mountains, where snow on the mountains high above us was plainly visible. This excursion, some thirty miles into the country, gave us a good idea of the great fertility of the soil and luxuriance of its vegetation. Every inch of ground is cultivated, and olive, fig and orange groves abound. The orange groves are not large but seem quite thrifty. The fruit is fine but not equal to that of Florida in size and quality. The grape culture for the production of wine is on a very large scale in these parts. Large fields of grain, now a few inches in height, promise a good yield. Wild flowers were in great abundance, and cacti from six to ten feet high, also the century plant, are planted to take the place of fences, which serve the purpose well and look very sightly. In Blidah are stationed a large number of Arabian soldiers under the command of 22 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. French officers. Just outside of the walled town is the large campus, where we saw a regiment of cavalry drilling. The Arab soldiers were of good size and looked well in their native flowing garments, while their pure Arabian horses were the finest I ever saw so sleek, and in every form and feature showed the thorough- bred of the finest type. I shall never expect to see their like again. The Arabs are the toilers, and are to be seen everywhere. In the city they swarm in the streets, and in the country they do the farm work. While the donkeys are numerous here, the Arabs probably outnumber them. They seem to be com- panions and companionable. On our way into the gorge of the mountains we saw hundreds if not thou- sands of them. Great numbers inhabit the mountains, where they make charcoal and pack it into Algiers, where they find a market. The Arabs are well spoken of as being honest, industrious, thrifty and law-abjding. They have good schools and the better classes are well educated and occupy responsible positions. They are Mohammedans in faith, and their religion is their great comfort and hope. The poorer classes earn from 20 to 40 cents per day, by hard labor, of which they save a part. They live principally on bread, which they eat soaked in olive oil, and the average cost of such living is said not to exceed 5 cents per day. We were much impressed by the strange appearance of the veiled A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. women, met here for the first time in our journey. The veil is supposed to shield the woman from the vulgar gaze of any man other than her lord and master. To our western and christianized minds it seemed a great injustice, and a wonder that a costume dictated by the jealousy of Mohammed could have prevailed undis- puted and unchanged through all these years. We did Algiers quite thoroughly and would gladly have remained longer, but as we anticipated much pleasure in the places to follow, we left with only pleasant recollections. The run from Algiers to Genoa is some forty hours, where we are due early to- morrow morning. A strong wind and big waves have kept most of the passen- gers in their rooms during the day, and this part of the trip has been disap- pointing. However, we have in the main had perfect weather and a royal good time. We've all been well and without mishaps. From Genoa you may hear from me again. WOMEN OF ALGIERS. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 25 No. IV. CORSICA AND GENOA. AJACCIO, Island of Corsica, Feb. 18, 1894. Here we are at the birthplace of the great Napoleon. We found the house in very good repair, but the street narrow and dirty. The house may have been quite palatial in its day, but looks far from modern. However, it was very interesting to see the old bed- stead upon which he was born and the furniture in general that was in use in his childhood days. Some of the cabinets were, no doubt, very elegant in their time. His old sedan chair and the other chairs also show their great age and are kept closely guarded for antiquity's sake. The house bears the inscription, " Napoleon est ne dans cette Maison le 15 Aout, 1769." The statue, in bronze, of the Emperor with his four brothers was erected in 1865 by Barye, and is very fine. This is a place of about 20,000 inhabitants and the capital of the island of Corsica. It is most beautifully situated on an extensive bay, whose background is formed by imposing mountains, where again we were in sight of the beautiful snow on Monte Cinto, some 9,000 feet above the sea. The valleys and hillsides are beautiful and show careful cultivation. The air is mild and balmy, and we now begin to appreciate the fact that we are approaching the tropical country of Egypt, where we are due the 22d inst. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 27 We arrived in Genoa on the I5th inst.,and we found it cold and disagreeable. This is the great commer- cial city of Italy, and the harbor was well filled with ships of other nations. Soon after we arrived the Fulda left for New York with a shipload of Italians. I would like to have told them that they had better remain in their native land, where they could at least find employment at a price that would afford them a living, which is doubtful at this time in the United States. When the situation is better understood by foreigners who are seeking higher wages, they will remain where they are, for a while at least. During our boom, and up to the time that we had not an over-supply, nearly all who came to our shores were benefited. The buildings here are high, massive and imposing. We saw a magnificent statue of Columbus, but the profile was unlike any others we have seen, and the question may be asked which, if any, is correct. We saw the noted Villa Pallavicini, with its beautiful grounds, which cost upwards of $ 1,000,000. The present owner is sixty-five years of age, blind, and has a bad son (so reported our guide). Therefore he is monarch of more than his eyes can survey. His poor tenants are far better off than he, and have more to be thankful for. A visit to the cemetery, Campo Santo, where we saw great numbers of the finest statues by the greatest artists, was A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 2 9 very interesting. The Cathedral of San Lorenzo dates from the eleventh century, and contains many precious relics. The massive columns of solid marble, of several varieties, were wonderfully beautiful. The decorations are extensive and in perfect condition. They were, however, touched up some forty years ago. From Genoa we made a side trip by rail to Monte Carlo where we took carriages to Nice, which is indeed a nice place to visit, and we would like to have remained much longer than our time would grant. The drive was charming beyond description. For nearly two hours we were in sight of Monte Carlo, while we were going zigzag to the mountain top. Nearly all the time we were in sight of the beautiful 3O A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. Mediterranean, whose blue waters glistened in the sun- shine. We passed through beautiful Mentone, but Monte Carlo and Monaco are the great fashionable resorts. We secured tickets to the Casino in Monte Carlo, where gambling is conducted on a great and magnificent scale. Though we did not take a chance, GAMBLING AT MONTE CARLO. we spent some time there, and it was very interesting to study the faces and watch the games. Young men spending inherited fortunes, old men on the verge of the grave, were "in it," killing time, while about an equal number of women were also trifling with Dame Fortune; some young and beautiful, others old and hag- gard. The majority of the players were cool and com- posed, and seemed not to change in countenance A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 31 whether they lost or won. While not knowing their personality, it is safe to predict that the end means ruin for most, if not all, of them. Suicides and crime result largely from a season spent in this infatuating hell. Still, the place is crowded with fashionable people from all parts of the world, some of whom are from Chicago and are spending the winter there. One whom I met stated: "This is the place of all places to have a good time in." My opinion is that later he may change his mind and say: "This is the place to avoid unless for a day and to gratify curiosity." The limited time I have here in which to mail this letter will pre- clude further details. No. V. ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT. February 25, 1894. Except for my promise to let you hear from me, I would discontinue this correspondence for the present, as time is an essential feature in this attractive place. However, a little rest is desirable after the past few days of sightseeing. We arrived in Alexandria the 23rd, bright and early. The first view I obtained from my port-hole was the old lighthouse known as Pharos, located on a point of land adjacent to the harbor and almost as conspicuous as Pompey's Pillar, which I saw later from another point. The view as we 32 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. lay in the harbor of the Mediterranean, extending as far as the eye could see, was most impressive. The land was apparently on a level with the sea, and nothing in view but sand and the tall palmetto trees, of which a goodly number were observable. The similarity to the lower coast of Florida, as seen from the Mexican Gulf coast, was almost identical. Our landing was accomplished with but little delay and, as usual, in small boats, of which there were great numbers. It was amusing to watch the boatmen as they crowded their boats alongside our ship, each en- deavoring to crowd the other out, in order to secure passengers. Such yelling, pushing and hauling made it a perfect bedlam. While apparently very angry, fortunately there were no blows exchanged. There was no delay, to speak of, at the custom house, and we were soon off for a drive. The first object of interest was Pompey's Pillar, a red granite cylindrical shaft over one hundred feet in height and of one solid stone. The mystery is, how could it have been brought there and so perfectly raised at a time when our present facilities for such a gigantic task were unknown. It shows the effect of age, and disintegration is percep- tible in many places. The monument which vied with it in general interest was Cleopatra's Needle which, up to 1880, stood at Ramleh, about six miles from Alex- andria. It was presented by the Khedive Ismail to the A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 33 city of New York, and it was raised by American machinery from the place it occupied for 2,000 years and conveyed to New York in a specially constructed vessel. The catacombs were very interesting almost a solid mass of graves, and all alike. They are about four feet high, built of stone, oval at the top and covered with cement. From each mound a shaft is built, which gives the grave the appearance of a steam boiler. Our drive extended along the canal, where we ob- served the most peculiar boats imaginable, the dahabieh of the Nile, not less curious than the caravels at our World's Fair. The canvas these boats carry is double the size of the boats themselves and constructed on the goose-quill order. The masts are very high and the sail is fastened on a boom which crosses the mast about two-thirds from the top, making an angle of about 30 with it. The boats are nearly all of similar con- struction. The Palace Ras-el-Tin and gardens were not of much interest to us. The grounds and trees were covered with green mold, and the few flowers we saw struggling for life gave the place the appearance of one that should be avoided rather than visited. The palace, though large, showed neglect and decay. Alexandria, in its palmy days, is said to have had a population of over half a million, but at present con- tains not over 2OO,000 inhabitants. Since the opening A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 35 of the Suez Canal, Alexandria has become an emporium of considerable commerce, but its oriental character is still maintained. It is since the bombardment of 1882 that a modern city has arisen, and in the Frank quarter the finest modern buildings are quite numerous. Perfect streets and broad boulevards are in keeping with this part of the city. The few hours spent in Alexandria was all the time we wanted there, and we took the first train to Cairo, distant 138 miles; time, by fast express, about four hours. The railroad is built through the valley and in several places along the banks of the Nile; the soil is very fertile and the greater part is given up to alfalfa, which gives the fields the fresh appearance of our meadows in June. Large herds of cattle were to be seen in all directions. The cattle here are very unlike ours. They strongly resem- ble the sacred cow, with necks and heads almost on a line with their backs. Their horns are almost straight and grow back on the body, and they have slight humps on their shoulders. Sheep, donkeys and camels, with their attendants, were also observable in great numbers. Mud villages were to be seen here and there, and some of them covered a large area of ground. They were compactly built and from outward appear- ance were densely populated. These villages are built on land that was purposely elevated to overcome the danger of inundation by the annual rise of the Nile, 36 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. which at times is rather serious in its results. Irriga- tion is resorted to almost as extensively as in Califor- nia, but at a small expense, as the land is very nearly level throughout the valley. A main ditch extends at right angles from the Nile, -from which the water is elevated to some extent by windmills (few in number), but principally by pumps, worked by cattle attached to EGYPTIAN IRRIGATION. an oddly-constructed windlass. Wells are also sunk (only a depth of a few feet is required to get to the level of the Nile), from which water is elevated by the cheap labor of the natives. Were labor not so cheap and laborers not so numerous, windmills would be more A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 37 extensively used, as wind in this part of the world is in large supply as well as in demand for purposes of navi- gation on the Nile. It is, however, very objectionable for the comfort of tourists from other parts of the world. The chill of the wind is not less than that of some parts of California and on Lake Michigan in March. But for the bright sunshine which is ever pre- vailing, this country would have no attractions for tour- ists who are seeking a genial climate. At its best it is not to be compared with the winter climate of Florida, which has that soft, balmy atmosphere that is only equaled by a few of our best days at home in the month of June. I am still wearing heavy clothing the same as at home in winter, and it is more often that I am too cold than too warm. In the sun and out of the wind it is comfortably warm, while in the shade and in the wind no amount of clothing could keep one too warm. In this respect the hotels are very uncom- fortable at night and in the early morning, as no means for heating has been provided. I have suffered more from cold in Egypt than in Chicago. Hard colds are quite common with our party, notwithstanding the care and prudence we exercise to avoid them. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 39 No. VI. CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS. CAIRO, EGYPT, March i, 1894. Here we are in the capital of Egypt and the seat of government, with a population of 400,000, of whom about 30,000 are Europeans. Cairo is the ideal Mo- hammedan capital, as it has been for years. It is the residence of the khedive and is the largest city in Africa. Its remarkable edifices are its citadel, mosques and their minarets. The citadel dominates over the whole city from its elevated position on a bold ridge of sandstone. Its walls are of great solidity and in some places one hundred feet in height. The view it com- mands is very extensive and impressive, including not only the carved domes and fantastic minarets of Cairo, but the sequestered valley, with its tombs of Mameluke sultans and the rich, deep verdure of the distant delta. The neighboring pyramids and the yellow frontier belt of the desert stand out in bold relief. The Cairene min- arets are said to be the most graceful of any in the east; exquisite creations of the strange, dreamy Arabian genius, towering to an extraordinary height, built of courses of red and white stone and ornamented with balconies, from which muezzins announce the hour of prayer. Of these mosques the first that we visited was that of Sultan Hassan. The king had the hand of 4O A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. the architect cut off, in order that he might never be able to construct another like it. Its porch is beautiful and its extensive court strikes one with admiration. In the back part is the tomb of the founder, on which rests a copy of the Koran. We next visited that of Mohammed Ali, recently finished, and said to be fully equal to anything of the kind in Constantinople. It is certainly magnificent beyond description. Nearly the whole of the interior is of oriental alabaster. The ceil- ing is divided into one large dome in the center, sur- rounded by four half domes of the same size, at the corners of which are four smaller domes. On the side toward Mecca is another half dome the size of the first. The tomb of Mohammed Ali is in one corner and is strikingly beautiful. The entire floor of the mosque is covered with Smyrna rugs of the most beautiful designs and some of very large size, and the entire lot was pre- sented by a Russian prince. The decorations and stained-glass windows are very fine. The mosque is one of the largest and covers an area 540 feet square. Many are constantly worshiping there and all facing the east, some blind, others very aged and all seemingly of the poorer classes. They were sitting on the floor and kept their heads and bodies constantly bending and bowing. Our next to visit was that of Tulun, the oldest mosque in the city, built A. D. 879. What was once A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 41 elaborately carved wood-work has nearly all gone to decay. Its thousand years and over of age are strik- ingly manifest. On entering these mosques we put on slippers over our shoes, in preference to entering them with bare feet as the Egyptians are required to do. The attendant probably did not understand my remark when I stated that Egyptian slippers were not large enough for Chicago feet. However, the slippers were equal to the requirements of the custom, and the fee exacted. Driving through old Cairo with its narrow streets we were soon on the island of Rhoda, where we saw the old residence of the Pharaohs in a fair state of preservation. It is located on the most southerly point of the island, from which there is a most charming view. But a few rods from this we were shown where Moses was found, but in lieu of bulrushes there is now a, stone wall some fifteen feet high extending up from the water's edge of the Nile. We visited the university, a Mohammedan school in one of the old mosques, where we saw hundreds of boys learning and reciting the Koran. They were divided into small groups, having as instructors ancient-looking Arabs. They seemed very jolly and to be having a good time as they sat on the stone floor, with bodies and heads in constant motion. In lieu of slates their lessons were written on tin sheets about 8 x 10 inches A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 43 in size. In the large open court were young and old men, some reciting the Koran, others fast asleep. Our next day was spent in visiting the pyramids a charming drive of about two hours through a broad avenue perfectly shaded by immense pepper trees nearly the whole distance. Cheops, the largest of the three pyramids of Gizeh, is 451 feet high, rising from a base which measures 764 feet each way and covering eleven acres of ground. It is estimated that Cheops employed loo.ooo men for ten years to make the cause- way from the Nile, for the purpose of conveying the huge blocks of stone, and 360,000 men twenty years to build the monument. The view of this pyramid from a distance is grand, but its actual height and immensity, when alongside of it, are awe-inspiring. It is indeed one of the Seven Wonders of the World. These huge blocks of stone are laid in perfect symmetry and are in a good state of preservation. The ascent is arduous and but few visitors succeed in reaching the top; one- third of the way was enough for us. The view, however, from this distance is very fine. The two other pyramids of Gizeh are in close proximity to this but not so large. A short distance from this pyramid is the Sphinx, as much greater than all other Sphinxes as the pyramids are greater than all other tombs. It is now so covered with sand that only the upper parts the head and body are visible. The whole figure is cut out of the A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 45 solid rock, with the exception of the fore paws, and worked smooth. The Sphinx was a local deity of the Egyptians and was treated in all former times with divine honors. Immediately under its breast an altar stood, and the smoke of the sacrifice went up into the gigantic nostrils, now vanished from its face. The size of the Sphinx is estimated in height 143 feet; circum- ference around the forehead 102 feet. The paws of the leonine part extended 50 feet in front. An inscription cut on one of the paws has been translated to read as follows: Thy form stupendous here the gods have placed, Sparing each spot of harvest-bearing land; And with this wondrous work of art have graced The rocky isle encumbered once with sand; And near thy pyramids have bid thee stand Not that fierce Sphinx that Thebes erewhile laid waste, But great Latona's servant, mild and bland; Watching that prince beloved, who fills the throne Of Egypt's plains, and calls the Nile his own. That heavenly monarch (who his foes defies), Like Vulcan powerful, and like Pallas wise. Though mutilated and defaced the lonely Sphinx still possesses a strange and weird beauty. Tis here that I took my first ride on a camel, as did also my wife. We started out thinking to make the trip on foot (the distance being short), but the deep sand and stony path made walking a hardship; so courage came of sheer desperation and we were only too glad to ride even a camel. As the country girl said when she first 46 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. saw a camel: "Aren't they awful plain looking." ' I will add yes, they are, and they are equally safe and reliable, and their walking gait is not objectionable to even amateur riders. The next day we went up the Nile and visited the ancient city of Memphis, in which place we saw the pyramids of Sakkara, statue of Rameses II., the tombs of the sacred bulls, etc. The excursion occupied a whole day, and I pronounce it the most instructive and enjoyable up to date. From Cairo we took a "Cook" steamer up the Nile, which brought us to the place of landing in two hours. Here we found donkeys in readiness for the balance of the trip, which con- sumed about five hours and covered a distance of twelve to twenty miles, estimated according to the endurance of the riders. There were several ladies in the party, and I may say they endured the trip " donkeyly " well. My donkey boy was a shrewd one; the few words of English that he spoke, and fairly well at that, were: "This good donkey; you good rider donkey boy wants two shillings." Yes, and he wanted his two shillings at short intervals. His ambition to please me and have my good will for a good fee were manifest in the way he prodded the poor little donkey to make him forge ahead of others; this led to a mishap by which the donkey stumbled and fell and I was thrown over his head. The fall was easy and some- A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 47 what broken by his big upright ears, with which I came in contact on my sliding off over his head. We were soon up and away again, but I would no longer allow him to put on airs at my expense. The balance of the trip was slow and sure. Not less than half a dozen others of our party had the same experience. At short intervals we were besieged with peddlers, offering for sale all kinds of antiquities. They would ask many times more than they would be will- ing to accept, and, if they got no offers, they would make them themselves, scaling down to a minimum price. In one instance I accepted and took possession of the property and handed over the sum agreed upon. She wanted more and I tendered to her the property if she would return my money. To this she declined, holding as fast to the money as I did to the property. She followed me quite a distance, wringing her hands, weeping and howling as if greatly injured. I thought I saw through her scheme and I stood my ground until she became convinced that she could make nothing more out of me, when she tackled a New York gentleman just ahead of me, working the same game and with better success. EGYPTIAN WOMEN. 48 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. As he told me later he gave in to save her mother's life, who was dangerously ill, etc. These girls are dressed in a single garment, cut low and open in front. They do not wear corsets or use hooks and eyes, and are not very particular as to their exposure. In fact they looked very natural and are perhaps innocent, who knows? We first came to the statue (now in a horizon- tal position) of Rameses II., immense in size and in a fair state of preservation. We passed alongside of the mud village of Rameses, which for filth and squalor exceeded anything I have ever seen or even read of. Soon we were on the site of old Memphis, which took me back to the burned business district, after the great Chicago fire. Piles of debris and excavations extended over a very large area. Near by are the pyramids of Sakkara, eight or ten in number and mostly of small size. Near these are the tombs of the bulls, which we entered with candles and slippers, as usual. An under- ground passage, extending a long distance, leads to the numerous tombs, which are located at either side of the passage. These tombs of immense stone are finely polished and have various hieroglyphics. Others I saw, but I will not attempt to describe them at this time. One can scarcely comprehend the amount of labor that must have been required to do all this work of the past. Nor can we appreciate the conditions once existing that called forth such great efforts A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 49 for the perpetuation of ancient rulers and religious enthusiasm. In Cairo the Muski is the chief business thorough- fare. The busy traffic in this street often presents an interminable, raveled and twisted string of men, women and animals, of pedestrians, equestrians and carriages of every de- scription. The bazaars present so many novel features that we vis- ited them often. The handsomest shops, hotels, theatres, etc., are on the Ezbekiyeh, a beautiful square of large proportions.with fine pleasure grounds in the center. The museum of Balak con- tains a wonderful col- lection of Egyptian antiquities. I had supposed that I had seen most of them at the British museum in London and at the Louvre in Paris, but I was mistaken. The supply is equal to, if not exceeding the demand. The hotels at this time are crowded, and we made three changes before we obtained comfortable rooms. We are now at Ghesireh, built originally for a palace, but EGYPTIAN GAMESTERS. 50 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. now used as a hotel. It is indeed a palace very commodious, furnished royally, and has large, beautiful grounds. It is some three miles from the heart of the city and on the west bank of the Nile. The quiet com- fort and elegance of this hotel are much preferable to the accommodations one can get at Sheapard's, whose principal attraction is due to the fact that it is very well located in the heart of the city. Such processions of camels one sees everywhere, laden with about every- thing, principally alfalfa, which is brought to the city in great quantities, and in some cases long distances. Donkeys are no less common, but are used chiefly for riding in the city. Many handsome carriages and blooded horses are to be seen every pleasant afternoon The red-coats (British soldiers) are here in large num- bers, and have extensive quarters in the heart of the city. The Egyptian soldiers are more numerous and are a fine looking lot of men. They also have neat, attractive uniforms. During our stay here it has been cold and we have suffered from it much of the time. The chill of the wind is very trying. The hotels have no facilities for heating, and the only comfort we get is when the sun is shining and when we are out of the wind. It rained hard for twenty-four hours, which is quite unusual at this season of the year. However welcome rain is for the natives, it was not desirable for us. Our opinion is that Cairo is a failure for fine, A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 51 desirable winter climate, and we are greatly disap- pointed, having brought light suits and underclothing, that they must still remain unpacked in our trunks. The natives are so acclimated that they go bare-footed and bare-legged; the dress they have of light cotton cloth has very little warmth, and is used more for EGYPTIAN DANCERS, CAIRO. the purpose of concealing their upper person than for comfort or beauty. Aside from colds we are all very well and our visit here has been fairly comfortable and very instructive. We are to sail to-morrow from Alex- andria, and expect to be at Jaffa for Jerusalem on Sat- urday. From that point of interest you may soon expect to hear from me. 52 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. No. VII. JERUSALEM. March 6, 1894. Leaving Alexandria the 2nd inst., we arrived at Jaffa the next morning, but as there was a heavy sea rolling, we could not effect a landing, and the result was that we were floating CAESAR CHALEEL, DRAGOMAN AT JERUSALEM, about tor twenty-four hours be- fore we cast anchor, and then it was so rough that only a part of our passengers had the courage to attempt a landing. Jaffa has no harbor, and ships have to cast anchor quite a distance from shore. As usual, there were row boats in abundance to take us to the landing. Fortunately these were of large size, well- manned and, no doubt, very safe. I am of the impres- sion that they are known as yawls ; in any event they seemed so from the amount of "yawling" and "yelling" that was made by the sailors. Our landing was made without mishap, with the exception of a slight accident to Mrs. Booth, of Chicago, who received quite a shock from one of the row boats getting caught under the steps that lead from the side of the ship to the smaller boats. She sustained herself heroically, and soon the trouble was over. Such rolling and pitching as we had was enough to tax the nerves of sailors, and the ladies of our party are entitled to much credit for the quiet A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 53 resignation with which they were prepared to meet death in the attempt to see the Holy Land. The view from our ship, of Jaffa, situated on a high bluff, gave it the appearance of being a beautiful city, but on landing and making our way through its narrow, filthy streets to the railroad station, we came to the conclusion that "distance lends enchantment to the view." Jaffa is the main seaport of Palestine from Europe and Egypt, and is the nearest to Jerusalem. It abounds in historic interest, which for lack of time I will not undertake to mention except in a very brief way. It was the bound- ary line of the tribe of Dan was the port from which Jonah sailed when he was swallowed by a whale is where the Apostle Peter restored Dorcas to life, and contained the house of Simon the tanner, etc. Jaffa has a population of 18,000 inhabitants, three-fourths of whom are Jews. It is of considerable commercial im- portance, as it is the base of supply for the entire country. Oranges of fine quality and liberal quantities are produced in its immediate vicinity. From Jaffa to Jerusalem by rail is about forty miles, and time is about four hours. We passed through the plain of Sharon, which is beautiful at this season of the year. The fields are large, and the fresh, green appearance of the grain and meadows was quite like our western prairies in June. Large herds of cattle and sheep were to be seen as far as the eye could reach. From the plain we A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 55 ascended the mountains of Judea, where we wound our way through deep gorges and along the barren moun- tain sides to Jerusalem, where we beheld the Holy City, so full of ancient and sacred history. While our first feelings were those of unbounded joy, they were soon changed to pity and sorrow from having come in con- tact with its filthy streets and filthy inhabitants. There is hardly a single symptom of either comfort or happi- ness, which condition is said to exist throughout the whole country. What a pity that these people should not associate cleanliness with godliness. True it is that these people are poor, but as water and time are in good supply there is no excuse for such filth and neglect. Our desire has been gratified to see this land where lived Abraham, Isaac and Jacob; to see the city conquered by David and enriched by Solomon; to see the spot where our Savior gave up the ghost to save mankind and where, on the same spot, the godlike Godfrey de Bouillon, 1,088 years later, planted the standard of the cross, and rescued the Holy City from Mohammedan rule after a possession of 460 years. On our arrival at Jerusalem, Sunday evening, we were driven to the Cazenova, a hotel or boarding house kept by monks who conduct it for profit and charity (in our case good profit). Catholic pilgrims, without money, here find accommodations without charge. The house is large, very clean and might be comfortable in hot 56 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. weather, but we found it one of the coldest imaginable. Thick walls of stone, stone floors, iron cots; it seemed more like a prison than a hotel. The table was of the most ordinary, but we managed to exist our allotted time of two days. We were glad to get there, and doubly glad to flee away. Yes, we fled, but not without t\\& fleas, of which all have souvenirs that we may have to take home with us. I doubt if they can penetrate the skins of the natives, with their elephant hides, but with us poor, thin-skinned pilgrims they had a "feast of season and a curse of souls." The next morning, bright and early, we drove out to Bethlehem, cold and shaky; an hour's ride over a good road, over hills and through valleys, from which point we saw the plain on which David fought and conquered the Philistines; the River Jordan and the Dead Sea. We halted at the well where the wise men drank, when to their delight the star reappeared which they had seen in the East. Rachel's tomb at the roadside was another object of in- terest to us. At David's well, on the way, we par- took of the TOMB OF RACHEL. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 57 water in a limited quantity, and with some doubts as to its purity, owing to its untidy attendants and general surroundings. Winding our way through the narrow and filthy streets, tenanted by the Jews, we were in Bethlehem, a city having a population of 5,000, nearly all of whom are Christians. It is believed that the present people are children of the crusaders, allied with Syrian and Saracenic blood. The inhabitants are noted for energy and intelligence and its women for grace and beauty. We regret to say we saw none of it. In the most prominent portion of the town, and rising conspicuously above all other buildings, is the embat- tled monastery, an enormous pile of buildings, consist- ing of Latin, Greek and Armenian convents, which surround the church used in common, which stands over the Cave of the Nativity. This church, erected in the early part of the fourth century by Helena, mother of Constantine, is the oldest Christian church in the world. The ceiling is composed of beams of cedar from the forest of Lebanon. Descending a few steps, and traversing a long passage, we entered the crypt or Chapel of the Nativity. The floor and walls are marble. At the eastern end is a silver star, around which are the words (when interpreted), "Here Christ was born of the Virgin Mary." About twenty feet from this star there is a small recess in the rock in which is a block of marble hollowed out to represent a A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 5g manger. The original wooden one is now in the church Maria Maggiore at Rome, and there shown by the Pope in the Christmas day ceremonies. In front of the man- ger is the altar of the Magi. Also here are the altars of the Innocents, 2,000 of whom were thrown there after the massacre of Herod, the altar of the Shep- herds, and the altar of Joseph, where he retired at the moment of the Nativity. Below the convent, on the outside, is the Woman's Grotto, in which, tradition says, Joseph, Mary and the baby once sought shelter and concealment. A drop of the Blessed Virgin's milk fell on the floor, which spot was pointed out to us, and we are supposed to have seen it, but if so it was largely imaginary. Both the Christian and Moslem believe that a visit to the cave, or possession of a small piece of the stone, has the power of supernaturally increasing a woman's milk, consequently small pieces of the stone and the dust are in great demand, and are conveyed to all parts of the world by visitors. We, however, took none of it. On our way back to the hotel for luncheon, we left our carriages and walked up Mount Zion, where we saw David's Tomb, the site of the Last Supper, and the Column of the Scourging. After luncheon we took donkeys for the Mosque of Omar, situated on the foundation walls of Solomon's Temple, which has been, since the time of David, considered the most sacred ground in Jerusalem. It was with both wonder and 60 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. amazement that we beheld this most sacred spot. Our recollections of Sabbath-school lessons and Bible read- ing came vividly to mind. Here the foundation of Solomon's Temple was laid over 1,000 years before Christ; here is the Holy of Holies, Mount Moriah. The whole inclosure is 1,500 feet long by 1,000 feet wide. In the center is the mosque, a building in regu- lar octagon form, about sixty feet each side, supporting a beautiful dome. The sides are all marvelously panelled in white and blue marble. The interior is most magnifi- cent. In the center lies a large irregular stone nearly fifty feet in diameter, surrounded by an ornamental iron railing, sufficiently high to keep hands off. To this stone this gorgeous temple owes its existence. It is in itself the highest point of Mount Moriah. Before the rule of the Mohammedan, the Christian regarded it as the Holy of Holies. By the Mussulman it is believed to be a stone of prophecy, and to have fallen from Heaven. When the prophets were compelled to flee for safety to other lands, the stone expressed a desire to accompany them, but the angel Gabriel, seizing it in his mighty hand, intercepted its flight until Mohammed arrived, who fixed it eternally on its pres- ent site. The truth is here indelibly fixed in the rock namely, the print of the prophet's foot and the print of the arch-angel's hand when he prevented the flight of the stone. These imprints are visible to the naked eye, A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 6l but what we saw we were disposed to believe with grains of allowance. Underneath the rock is the cave where Mohammed rested after his flight from Mecca to Jerusalem. In the excavation known as Solomon's Stable, below this mass of rock, are 1,000 massive stone columns with sufficient space to drive a coach and four or shelter a big army. The immense amount of time and labor involved in this work is small as compared with that of the erection of Solomon's Tem- ple that stood above it. On the eastern wall of the harem is the Golden Gate, where Christ is said to have made his entry into Jerusalem. This is held as most sacred, and no person is allowed to descend the steps which lead to it. Our next was a visit to the Holy Sepulchre, which is within the walls, and covers some twelve or thirteen places consecrated to more than ordinary veneration by being in some way connected with the death and resurrection of the Savior. The church, it is pretended, not only covers the site of Calvary and the tomb of Joseph and Nicodemus, but also the place where the Savior TOMB OF ABSALOM. 62 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. appeared to Mary, his mother, after the resurrection; where Constantine's mother found the true cross; where the angel appeared; where the Savior appeared to Mary Magdalene. As we entered the door of the sacred walls, the first object that was pointed out to us was a large flat stone, called the Stone of Unction, over which several lamps were suspended. This is where the Lord's body was anointed before burial by the holy women. Here we saw the devout Russian pilgrims cross themselves and, kneeling, kiss the stone with the greatest reverence; with tears in their eyes they would linger at these sacred spots, so overcome with grief that they could scarcely make room for others who were waiting. Of these Russian peasants, some 3,000 have recently arrived, and we saw them everywhere we went. Honest, devout faces they had, and all aged. Both men and women were dressed poorly, and all alike. It seemed pitiable that they should undergo such hardship and real suffering to visit the Holy Land. Their means are so limited that they have to make the journey on foot so far as possible; they have to live on bread or other cheap food that will merely sustain life. The church encourages these pilgrimages, and the sus- taining of monarchy is through the church. Hence comes slavery to the masses. This applies not only to Russia, but Spain, Italy and other Catholic countries. Religious slavery and monarchical knavery go hand in A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. | P hand. After visiting the Garden of Gethsemane on the way to the Mount of Olives, we obtained a good view of the River Jordan and the mountains and valleys over a large expanse of country; we were glad to return to our hotel and give the poor donkeys a rest. The bal- RIVER JORDAN. ance of our limited time here was spent in shopping and walking about the city, which was full of interest. Our curiosity gratified, our stomachs and pocket-books depleted, we will be glad to again get to our ship, which is to take us to Smyrna, from which place you may soon hear from us again. No. VIII. SMYRNA. March 10, 1894. Leaving Jaffa on the afternoon of the 6th inst., we arrived at Smyrna on the morning of the 8th. A calm had followed the storm and our embarkation was quiet, comfortable and pleasant. That afternoon and the following day the Mediterranean was at its best and more like what we had read of it, than what we had previously experienced. 64 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. The waters were indeed blue, but we were not. The air was soft and mild and, for the first time during our trip, overcoats were not essential for comfort. We began to realize what we had so fondly anticipated a delightful winter trip to the Orient. Arriving at Smyrna our first view was of the snow- capped mountains in the distance, which gave us a shudder and a chill, as we had hoped and expected to IN SMYRNA. see no more of " the beautiful" during the balance of the trip. However, as we surveyed the magnificent land-locked harbor and the charming city, resting so quietly on the hillsides, we were reconciled with the situation and glad that we were there. Smyrna, in ancient times one of the most important, is now one of the greatest cities in Asia Minor. It has A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 6, a population of 200,000 inhabitants. It is the chief emporium of trade and commerce in the Levant. It is celebrated for its carpets, rugs and figs, which are exported to nearly all parts of the world. Its narrow streets and boulder pavements are best suited to camels, of which we saw great numbers, one after another, in single file, the leader having what we would call a cowbell, of good size and shrill tone. We started out in carriages, expecting to drive for some time, but experi- encing a good deal of delay and discomfort we soon discharged them, as walking was preferable. The worst corduroy roads I ever saw were far more comfortable riding over than the rock pavements that we found in the principal streets. The streets are so narrow that carriages cannot pass in many places, and so crooked and short that it was difficult to keep the points of the compass. The Turkish bazaars are huddled together over a large space of the quarters and were very interesting to visit. While the shops are small, the display they make is large and very attractive. We were reminded of our decoration days at home by the display they make of fabrics in bright colors. I looked in several places for plain white silk handkerchiefs, but could find none, everything shown being in fancy colors, stamped or embroidered. Ephesus, some twenty miles by rail, we did not visit for want of time; the few who did were not enthusi- 66 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. astic over what they saw of the ruins of the Temple of Diana, formerly one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and rich in the remarkable events of ancient history. In the harbor, anchored near our ship, lay the Chicago, one of our new fleet of warships. It was with pride and pleasure that we. saw her beautiful snow-white form and in bold letters at her stern " Chicago." Yes, Chicago was there in those far-away waters, and, no matter how distant or where we may be, we find somebody or something that reflects credit on our incomparable city. Several of our passengers visited the ship and were well entertained by its officers, who, in the evening, came over to our ship and participated in the dance and german that are of frequent occurrence while we are laying at anchor. We have a fine band and music several times each day, which help to pass the time away very pleasantly. ATHENS. Leaving Smyrna at midnight, we arrived at Athens on the following afternoon. The weather was good and the sun most enjoyable. Much of the time we were in sight of and often very close to the islands, which are very numerous in these waters. But for their barren and sterile appearance they would be not less attrac- tive than the Thousand Islands of the River St. Law- rence, of which we have pleasant recollections. Pass- ing alongside and between these numerous islands, in A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 6j due time we were in sight of Athens and in the harbor of Piraeus, which is distant from Athens six miles and connected by railroad. Pineus has a small harbor, but a very perfectly protected one. The town is small, but beautifully situated, overlooking the water from three sides. It has beautiful villas, broad streets and as perfect concrete roads as our best boulevards at home. And now we are in Athens. Modern Athens is a beautiful city of about 85,000 inhabitants. Broad streets and perfect macadam pavements throughout the new part, with its solid marble front buildings of most beautiful and modern architecture, make this indeed one of the most attractive cities to be found in either the Old or New World. Of the old part but little exists except its ruins, which are, of course, the great attraction for tourists and lovers of antiquity. The limits of ancient Greece were much more exten- sive than those of the modern kingdom, which in area is about the size of Vermont and New Hampshire. Its people are proud, industrious, contented and happy. Their costumes are neat and attractive. The national Greek or Albanian costume consists of a high fez, with long blue tassel, a blue or red jacket with open sleeves and richly embroidered, a vest of similar description, shirt with wide and flowing sleeves, a leathern belt with pouch for weapons, short breeches, red gaiters and pointed red shoes with tassels on the tips. The women A CRUISK ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 69 generally wear French clothing and are altogether good- looking. The peasant women retain their national cos- tume, consisting of long petticoat, embroidered on the sleeves and skirt, with a woolen dress above it; they adorn their hair and necks with chains of coins strung together. The little girls of the higher class were very attractive in their embroidered dresses in artistic colors. Of the history of Greece I will not write, and of the ruins in Athens I have neither the time, space nor ability to do them justice. The Acropolis, or citadel, crowns the summit of a rocky hill which rises abruptly out of the plain in the midst of the city. It was a fortress from the earliest ages. The highest point of its plateau is 500 feet above the sea-level. The walls which are built upon the edge of the perpendicular rock, form a circuit of nearly 7,000 feet and are of great antiquity. The propylaea were commenced 437 B. c. and remained in perfect preservation until the fourteenth century. The Temple of Victory, without wings, stands to the right of the entrance to the Acropolis. It was demol- ished by the Turks in 1687, when besieged by the Venetians. The Parthenon was built during the admin- istration of Pericles and was finished 438 B. c. It was 200 feet long, by 100 feet wide, and sufficient now remains to fill the spectator with astonishment and awe. The cost of the building was nearly $3,000,000. The walls of the principal building were surrounded with a 70 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. peristyle containing forty-eight white marble columns of the Doric order. These columns were six feet at the base and thirty-four feet high until 1687, during the Venetian siege, when the explosion of a powder mag- azine tore off the roof and overthrew a great part of the temple. It is only by being upon the spot that one can get a good idea of its former greatness and beauty; also its appearance of destruction. These immense columns now lie as they fell, and the earth is covered with the debris of broken columns and sculp- ture of the highest order. The sight is sad and over- whelming. The Acropolis, which was the pride of Greece, the perfection of all art and envy of the world, had four distinct characters, viz.: the fortress of the city, the sacred shrine for all offerings, the treasury and the museum of art of the Athenian people. A short distance to the west of this is Mars Hill, of great interest to Christian people as the spot from which the Apostle Paul addressed the assembled multitude of ancient Athenians. The Tower of the Winds, or the water clock, though dismantled, is in a fair state of preservation. Its eight sides face in the direction of the eight winds. The sym- bolic figures of the different winds are sculptured on the frieze and show traces of fine art as well as ingenuity. The Temple of Jupiter Olympus was formerly 550 feet long by 170 feet wide, with 120 Corinthian columns A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. Jl sixty feet in height and seven feet in diameter; of these columns sixteen remain in good condition. They are very conspicuous and show the perfection of Corin- thian architecture, which modern science has not improved upon. The Theatre of Bacchus was built about 500 B. c. The seats cut in the side of the hill of the Acropolis are still to be seen, also the front row of marble chairs that were occupied by the dignitaries. Their names were engraved and are to be seen on the several chairs in the semicircle. The Temple of Theseus is the best preserved of all the temples in Greece or Italy. The honors of this temple were divided with Hercules and ten metopes. The eastern side represents the exploits of that hero, while the other sides are devoted to Theseus. The king's palace, erected in 1838, is in the heart of the city, has a commanding view and is large and spacious. Our guide obtained for us a permit to inspect the interior, where we saw battle flags, beautiful paint- ings, sculpture and an English bicycle. Evidently some of the princes (there are several sons) ride the " bike." While at the palace we saw the king and queen, with the crown prince and princess, take their carriages for an afternoon drive. The king and crown prince were in military dress and the ladies in French or other fashionable costumes. We received a bow from them 72 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. in return for our greeting, but no invitation to dine. As we had not sent in our cards, this is not strange. The enterprise of the modern Athenians is every- where conspicuous. They have a capacious and beau- tiful exposition building that was built by private subscription. The Academy of Science is also large and has beautiful paintings and sculpture. The museum is large and contains a wonderful collection of Grecian and Egyptian antiquities. There are several big hotels, all well kept. The stores are mostly large, beautiful buildings, and some contain the finest goods and wares that are to be purchased anywhere. The architecture is mostly of the Corinthian style and the material, white marble, gives the city that clean, white appearance so desirable. The king arid queen are very popular with the people, and but a short time ago 500 of the citizens attended the royal ball given at the palace by their rulers. Modern Athens has a good future, and history may yet accord to the Athenians the honors that their forefathers so nobly attained. We appreciate the opportunity of seeing such progress in these foreign lands, and very much doubt if we shall see other cities on this trip that will compare favorably with it. We are all well, as well as well pleased. Leaving Piraeus early Sunday morning, we are due in Constan- tinople Monday morning. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 73 No. IX. CONSTANTINOPLE. March 15, 1894. The run from Athens here, of about twenty hours, was pleasant and interesting, as much of the time we were near by or in sight of the numerous islands that loom up in these waters. As we entered the great city by daylight we obtained a grand and imposing view of its overwhelming beauty. From the water's edge and towering far above we saw the two parallel chains of the city, with its parks, monuments, mosques and hun- dreds of minarets with shining pinnacles rising into the sky. Constantinople proper, the Turkish Stamboul, lies on a long, horn-shaped promontory, between the Sea of Marmora and the Golden Horn. It is connected by bridges with the modern cities of Galata and Pera on the other side of the Golden Horn. Scutari lies on the opposite side of the Bosphorus, in Asia, and is beautifully situated. As a steam tug had been char- tered for our landing we got ashore with comfort and promptitude. Nevertheless the rowboats were there by the hundreds and thousands, some small and light for passengers, others big and heavy for freight. It was surprising to see what big boats and heavy freight one or two oarsmen could transport. The harbor was well filled with steamers receiving or discharging freight. All that comes or goes from these boats is propelled A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 75 mostly by hand. Upon landing at a miserable little wharf, we were crowded into the middle of a narrow street, literally packed with pedestrians, horses, car- riages and dogs. However, we found our guide, or dragoman, who put us in carriages, and away we went, across the roughest and toughest old bridge probably on earth, for Stamboul, where we first saw St. Sophia, the largest mosque in the world. It was commenced in the year 532 and completed in 538. It cost $5,000,000, and IO,OOO masons were employed for seven years in its erection. The mosque is in the form of a Greek cross, 270 feet long and 243 feet wide and is sur- mounted in the center by a dome, the middle of which is 180 feet above the floor. There are, in addition, two larger and six smaller semi-domes, with four minarets, the whole forming a magnificent appearance from the exterior. Of the 170 columns of marble, granite and porphyry, eight were those taken by Aurelius from the Temple of the Sun at Baalbec; eight in green marble came from the Temple of Diana at Ephesus; others from the Temples of the Sun and Moon at Heliopolis, and from Athens. Thus every heathen temple renowned in antiquity furnished a part, and the columns which formerly looked down on numerous gods, now stand in the house of the Supreme Lord surmounted by the cross. The Sultan visits this mosque once each year, and to-morrow is to be the day. Were we to remain 76 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. we would endeavor to see him, and also the military, which is to be out in a grand review. We made an effort to have our ship remain another day, but our captain could not grant it. We have probably missed a grand sight and escaped a great crush. Of the 400 mosques in and about Constantinople, we visited all but 399. They are all alike except in size, and one was enough to satisfy our curiosity. There is one sanitary feature at all the mosques that is very desirable, and that is the water and marble troughs, in which all the worshipers must perform their ablu- tions before entering the mosque. The custom is wholesome, and, judging from their appearance, a much needed one. In our circuit we passed the Cleo- patra needle brought from Egypt, of which London and Paris have much larger ones; also the Burnt Pillar, 120 feet in height. This is laid up in stone masonry and was originally covered with copper, but was dis- mantled by the enemy for the purpose of making it into coin. The sultans' tombs we visited, where we saw the curious custom of placing over the tombs, by their surviving wives, the very finest shawls that it is possible to procure. At the head of each tomb was a chest in which the Koran, that was written by the departed, was enclosed. Each sultan must write the Koran during his life. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 77 At the museum of the Janissaries we saw plaster of paris life-size figures of soldiers, artisans and others in their native costumes from the earliest ages, which do not materially differ from the present. At the Museum of Antiquities we saw the original tomb of Alexander the Great, which has most beautiful and elaborate sculpture. Other than this, "burst antiquities" ex- presses it all. The cistern of 1001 columns is now dry, but it is said to have once furnished water for 1, 000,000 men during four months. It could be put to good use by filling it up with the dogs lying about the streets and then close it up for all time. The dogs are a noticeable feature, as they are to be seen in great numbers. They are protected and encouraged, as they perform the duties of scavengers, and seem of a friendly and peaceable disposition. In appearance they resem- ble our prairie wolves and are certainly not sightly. They monopolize the right of way, and all passers-by do not disturb them while they are lying on the side- walks or in the streets. They are not allowed to roam, and they die without having gone beyond the street in which they were born. We took a small local passenger steamer and made a trip around the Golden Horn, which is one of the best protected harbors we ever saw. Here we saw the Turkish navy, many ships lying at anchor, some of which are large, and, no doubt, modern and first-class. 78 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. By special request our ship made a trip through the Bosphorus to the Black Sea, which we found very in- teresting. On either side are hills and valleys, with frequent villages and many beautiful residences. One of the Sultan's palaces (in which the deposed Ismail Pacha is now imprisoned) was in plain view and close to the water's edge. Just beyond, on a high bluff, is the Roberts school (English), which has 300 boys, none of whom are Turks. The building and grounds are very fine, and, in passing, the boys were all out and cheered us in a most enthusiastic manner. The American flag was flung to the breeze, and, of course, we returned the compliment. Extensive fortifications are on either side of the Bosphorus, which make this channel im- pregnable, as the width at the point of the forts is per- haps only half a mile and at its widest points one to two miles. Through the kindness of our American consul the ladies of our party received invitations to visit the palace of Ahmed Aly Pacha, which they did promptly by appointment. Although men are not admitted to the harem, I went with them, expecting to wait on the outside and see that none of them were retained. On presentation of their cards they were promptly ad- mitted and ushered into a reception room, where they were introduced to the first and honored wife of the Pacha; she then introduced her mother and later the A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 79 younger wives of the harem. The ladies informed me that such politeness and perfect decorum are seldom met with. I think they were disappointed (perhaps agreeably) that they did not see something of the sen- sational. While outside, awaiting the ladies' coming, a son of the Pacha saw me and sent a messenger asking me to step inside, which I gladly accepted. This son, a young man of about twenty-one years of age, was dressed in a fine English suit, and was very cordial. While he did not speak English, or I French, or Turk- ish, I had my dragoman act -as interpreter for us. The young Turk escorted me to the studio, where he showed me several of his father's oil paintings that would compare favorably with those of celebrated artists. He informed me that his father was very fond of painting and spent a good deal of time in his studio. Although I was not introduced to any of his twenty- five mothers or his father's wives, I was well entertained and greatly admired the beautiful paintings, decorations and ornaments that were in the rooms I visited. The following day the Pacha called at the hotel, but, as the ladies were out, he left his card, which read as follows: LE GENERAL DE DIVISION AHMED ALY PACHA, Aide-de-camp de S. M. T. le Sultan. STAMBOUL. WOMEN OF CONSTANTINOPLE. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 8l It was certainly very polite and quite unexpected that he should have returned their call. The ladies regret that they did not meet him, but say that if he is as nice as his son (whom they also met) he must be very nice indeed. The Sultan's harem has upward of one hundred wives, and only women of nobility can get invitations to visit them. Men can see the outside only, which is of immense size and beautifully situated. Just before our departure from Constantinople, the Sultan sent to our ship two large chests, one of cigar- ettes and one of candy, with the request that the captain should give to each passenger a box of cigar- ettes and candy with his compliments. They were duly distributed and greatly appreciated by our pas- sengers, who will have them to show to their friends at home as souvenirs from the great mogul, the Sultan of Turkey. He is but a man after all, and less notable men know how to captivate the fair sex with candy and taffy. I will add, the candy, for which the Turks are celebrated, is very fine. The cigarettes are the finest I ever smoked, although I am not much of a cigarettist and perhaps not competent to judge them. The Turks, as a whole, are to be admired for their ingenuity, industry and law-abiding qualities. In none of these Oriental cities have we seen dissipation, drunkenness or disorderly conduct. True, the common people look dirty and even filthy, but still they look 82 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. well-fed and in the enjoyment of health and content- ment. The Turks are of good size, and the upper classes clean, intelligent and well dressed. The red fez hat they all wear, and in looking at the throngs of men and their blazing caps, it is a sight never to be for- gotten. Not less observable is the string of beads that all carry in their hands when not engaged in business. We made several trips to the famous bazaars, where we made some purchases and did a great deal of sight- seeing. Goods can be bought there very cheaply if you know how to treat with the shop-keepers. They will ask two, three or four times more than they will accept rather than lose a sale, and a buyer must be on his guard both as to price and quality. These bazaars contain innumerable shops where all the different trades are carried on, and almost everything useful or ornamental may be purchased. The endless rows of stalls along each side of the covered streets, where articles are manufactured as well as sold, present a constant succession of novel scenes, and the motley panorama it commands is of absorbing interest. These streets are so narrow that not even donkeys are allowed in them. Large cases of goods are taken there by one, two or four men, who have long poles on their shoulders with the packages attached thereto. To protect their backs and shoulders they have a pad- ded saddle. In one case we saw a man with a large A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 83 slab of marble so heavy he could scarcely move. He was so stooped that he could not look up, and an attendant was with him to clear and guide his way. In our travels about the city we saw but one building in course of construction and but one building that had been burned, and that was left intact except for broken windows. We observed that insurance companies (mostly English) have branch offices in all these Ori- ental cities, and, unless rates are very, very low, they must find the business profitable. A fire is such an unusual event that risks are small indeed. Besides, the buildings are strictly fireproof, very little wood being used in their construction. As there is some cholera still in Constantinople, and as Malta is quarantined against her, we shall not make that interesting city, as provided for in our itinerary. Our next point of inter- est will be Messina, then Palermo to Naples. No. X. PALERMO AND MESSINA. PALERMO, March 20, 1894. We are in charming Palermo, where we arrived on the i8th inst. Leaving Constantinople Thursday after- noon, we had good weather to Messina, where we ar- rived early Sunday morning. Not being quarantined, we were soon on shore, where we found a very interest- ing city of 125,000 inhabitants. 84 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. Most of the streets are broad and the buildings fine and commanding. The streets are paved with large blocks of lava stone, very perfect, and are kept very clean. The harbor is one of the best in the world, not large, but perfectly protected from storms. The water in the bay is extremely deep, and we anchored near the shore. The harbor was well represented with ships and other craft, several of which were being loaded with oranges and lemons for New York and other foreign ports. The production of these fruits in Sicily is very large. The streets were full of trucks and carts loaded with fruits that were about to be shipped. Oxen of good size were hauling big loads of them on small and inferior trucks. Of carts we saw a great variety, some of which were painted and decorated most gorgeously. To these were hitched good-sized mules. On the boulevard we saw very handsome turnouts, and a good many of them. The horses were fine coachers, and the entire outfit equal to those of Paris and London. There are many rich residents, who have beautiful homes and keep apace with the living and fashions of the larger European cities. AT PALERMO. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. It was our good fortune to have been at Messina at the time of the general review of the army. It was but a short drive to the fort, which is connected with the large parade grounds. We estimated the division of the army, which we saw, to have been about 20,000. The commanding general and his staff were mounted on fine, large horses, and their uniforms were rich and gor- geous. All the offi- v^Bvorjp *M|M Mt cers were large, fine- - <6r TiS looking men. The soldiers of the ranks averaged smaller, CONVEYANCE AT MESSINA. but they WCTC Well uniformed and well drilled. There were two full bands of music, besides the buglers. One of these bands is quite celebrated, and later we heard them play in the park, and are of the opinion that they are equal to their reputation. The view from the harbor of the city, with its villas extending far up the hill, or mountain side, is very fine. The orange and lemon groves extend to the very top, and at this season of the year, with their fresh green foliage reaching in all directions, as far as we could see, make the view one of great beauty. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 87 The Island of Sicily has a most delightful climate, and we found it at its best, being much more soft and mild than any of the former places we had visited. We visited the cathedral, built in the eleventh century, where we saw the Cardinal march to the altar, escorted by the choir boys and priests. He was attended with great pomp and much ceremony. It was all show, as not a word was uttered that we could hear. There was a large congregation coming and going all the time, who seemed to be devout and as well satisfied as though they had heard a good sermon that requires brains and effort. There being nothing in Messina of especial interest, outside of a beautiful city, we were quite ready to leave for Palermo after the few hours so pleasantly spent. A night's run brought us to Palermo, the military, judicial and ecclesiastical capital of the island, with a population of nearly a quarter of a million. The ap- proach from the sea is magnificent, the situation is charming and the surrounding hills and valleys exquis- itely fresh and green. Here, also, are grown great quantities of oranges and lemons, but the quality is in- ferior to those of Messina and Algiers. Aside from a large, clean and flourishing city, there is nothing here of especial interest to mention. The streets are broad and well paved, the buildings large and attractive and the shops very extensive. The 88 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. appearance of the stores, streets and buildings is quite like those seen in the best parts of Paris. The church at Monreale is very fine; the cathedral is large, and contains much that is beautiful and elegant. As it is necessary to see these churches to appreciate them, and as the description of one is so nearly like others, it is unnecessary to enter into further detail of them. We were shown through the Royal Palace, which is very large and occupies a commanding view. The church connected therewith is small, but is most beautifully decorated in mosaics, representing large paintings of historic order. The King resides in Rome and seldom visits or occupies this palace. Here, as in Messina, one of the most common and conspicuous sights is the macaroni that is hung out to dry. Strung over poles, it is to be seen over the side- walks and in the alleys in all directions. One glance into the interior of these shops was enough. Had we penetrated farther, I doubt if we could have retained our appetites for macaroni. The harbor is large, but not naturally good, and we had to anchor a long way from shore. Perhaps it seemed longer than it was, as we were caught in a drenching rain in open boats. The twelve hours spent here were enough, and we were glad to be off for Naples, where we expect to get our papers and letters. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 89 No. XI. NAPLES AND POMPEII. NAPLES, March 22, 1894. Arriving at Naples in the early morning, we first saw Vesuvius from the port-holes of our cabins. There the mountain stood as we had so often seen it pictured. Not so far as the crow flies, but to get to the top re- quires a trip of several hours, by carriage, up a steady incline to within half a mile of the crater, where a rail- road takes passengers to the summit. Looking upward and onward, we had at all times a view of the smoking volcano, which for quantity and quality resembled the smoke of some of the tugboats in our Chicago River. Looking to the side and backward was the beautiful bay of Naples, its islands and cities in plain view, and such a broad and commanding view we believe cannot be equaled in any other part of the world. To gain a distinct conception of the aspect of the hill, first, a sloping plain, three miles long and three miles broad, stretching up a pretty rapid ascent to an elevation of more than 2,000 feet, very rugged in the surface and covered everywhere with black, burnt stones, like the scoriae of an iron furnace ; second, at the head of this plain, and towering over it, a cone of the same black, burnt stones, with sides remarkably straight and uniform, shooting up in the blue sky to a further elevation of 1,500 feet; third, behind this cone A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 9! a lofty, circular precipice, 1,400 feet high and three miles long, standing like a vast wall, and of the same burnt appearance. We left Portici by carriage, ascending gradually among cultivated fields and vineyards, occasionally traversed by streams of old lava, black, rough and sterile, and in about two hours reached the Hermitage, a convent where a few monks keep a sort of inn for the visitors of Vesuvius. Farther up we traversed large fields of lava, extremely rough, and at the base of the cone left our carriages and took the cable railroad for the summit, a distance of about half a mile. The cone is a mass of crumbling, black cinders and extremely steep, forming an angle of 45. From the terminal of the railroad landing it is but a few minutes' walk to where we found ourselves on extremely hot ground, intolerable to the hand and fatal to the soles of our shoes. It teemed with hot vapor, and was covered with beautiful effervescences of sulphur. Steam issued from numerous crevices, at the entrance of which a piece of paper took fire in a few seconds. While making our way to the mouth of the crater, we distinctly heard the explosions and the rumbling sound, as of the firing of cannon in the distance. Following one of these explo- sions, more severe than others, we saw rising far above us hot lava in large volume, which, in descending, fell not more than fifty feet from where we stood. Our Q2 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. guides were alarmed, and retreated with us on the run. We insisted upon getting where we could look into the fiery furnace, and by approaching it in another direction, and opposite the wind, we got a view and a shock we can never forget. As we stood at the mouth of the crater, we could hear the explosions much more distinctly, and in plain view, far below and beyond, we could see the fiery flames leaping upward in terrible confusion. The sight was appalling, and we were glad to retreat to safer quarters. Our guide secured for us a piece of the falling hot lava or stone, which we shall keep as a souvenir of our visit to the hell on earth, i. e. Vesuvius. For a more vivid and awful description of Vesuvius we will refer you to the old-school Meth- odist sermons on hell, such as we heard in our younger days in the good old state of Vermont. From our guides and others we were informed that " Old Vesuvey " was in especially bad humor on the day of our visit, and had not been cutting up and throwing up so badly for a year or more past. It is only a question of time when there will be another big upheaval or eruption that may possibly extend to and partially bury Naples in ruins. Our visit to Pompeii, an hour's ride by rail from Naples, was very interesting. It has the reputation of be- ing the most wonderful of the antiquities of Italy. The impression it gives of the actual presence of a Roman A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 93 town in all the circumstantial reality of its existence, 2,000 years ago, is so vivid and intense that it requires but a small effort of the imagination to place yourself among the multitudes which once thronged its streets and theatres, and occupied its now voiceless chambers. You see a street before you carefully paved and well worn. The houses extend in unbroken lines. The doors and windows are all open, and the tints of the walls are not very different from what are seen in the decayed towns of the same country at the present day. You turn to the right and to the left and wander from street to street, and still you have the perfect image of a town before you, except that no inhabitants appear. Here we saw a Roman forum, with all its accompani- ment of temples, porticoes, etc., also many shops and private houses of all descriptions. While the bases of these buildings are well-nigh perfect, the height varies from three to ten feet, and' that which is remaining is in a good state of preservation. Almost everything found at Pompeii, including the beautiful statues of 1882, is exhibited at the National Museum in Naples. The early history of Pompeii is enveloped in obscurity. It fell into the hands of the Sammites about the year 440 B. c., and was taken by the Romans about eighty years later. It was visited by an earthquake A. D. 63, which caused great destruction. It was afterwards over- whelmed, in A. D. 79, by the eruption of Vesuvius, and A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 95 continued to be buried under the ashes and other vol- canic matter for about 1,700 years. The discovery of the buried city was made while constructing an aqueduct to Torre, and since 1755 the work of excavation has been pretty constantly prosecuted. Herculaneum was also destroyed in A. D. 79, and with subsequent eruptions was buried under ashes and lava to a depth of seventy to one hundred feet. Charming Naples, with its beautiful bay, we shall call the Queen of the Mediterranean. It is the most populous city in Italy, and is visited by tourists in great numbers from all parts of the world. It lies at the base and on the slopes of several slight hills, rising from the sea in amphitheatre-like form. The streets are generally of good width and well paved. The buildings are of gray sandstone and are mostly of fine appearance. The shops are very attractive, and prices quite reasonable. We made a delightful excursion by steamer to the island of Capri, where we saw the Blue Grotto. Leav- ing the steamer, we were taken in small row-boats into the cave. The entrance is only about three feet high, and just wide enough to let the boats pass through. Visitors have to lie on their backs while passing into the grotto. The basin is 100 feet wide and 150 feet long, and the height from the water to the rock above varies from five to twenty- five feet. 96 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. The blue water of the Mediterranean, in the ab- sence of sunlight, is here so reflected that the deep- est shade of blue is most beautiful to the eye. From Capri we continued on the steamer to Sorrento, where we took carriages for Castellamare, thence by rail to Naples. Sorrento is a charming place, situated among luxuriant lemon and orange gardens, on rocks rising precipitously from the sea. Nearly all the orange and lemon trees were covered for the purpose of keeping the fruit from early ripening in the sun. By so doing the ripening is delayed, and higher prices are obtained. The carriage drive from Sorrento to Castellamare, over a perfect road and along the mountain side far above the sea, was very enjoyable. Having made our arrangements for spending a week in Rome prior to our departure for home, you may expect to hear from us again. No. XII. THE "ETERNAL CITY." ROME, March 30, 1894. Our trip is nearly over. As promised in my last letter, we will undertake to give you a bird's-eye view of Rome. To do it justice would require volumes, but to many Americans its history is familiar. From Naples to Rome, by rail, the time is about five hours. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 97 Nearly all the way the road follows the valley, which is very fertile and abounds in vineyards and walnut trees. A greater part of the distance we were close by and in sight of the mountains, which are still mantled in snow. The service on the railroad is good, but the cars are of the small compartment class that are in use throughout England and the continent. No baggage is carried free and no checks are issued for it. This obliges all travelers who have baggage to see that it is put on board when starting, and to be on hand to receive it at its destination. The charges for baggage are excessive and the fees required to be paid to the various porters are nuisances. A relay of not less than three sets of porters is necessary to get the baggage on, and the same off. The fees are not large, but are essential for everything and everywhere. To have a supply equal to the demand we devoted one pocket to a copper mine, which had to be replenished very often. The^ome of to-day is a beautiful modern city, its buildings are large and the streets mostly wide and all well paved. The hotels are numerous and some of them very elegant, but we found them all full, and had some difficulty in getting even a sheltering place. However, after the first day, we managed to get into fairly comfortable quarters. Tourists from all parts of the world are here, and a medical convention is being held that numbers some five thousand doctors, which makes an extra A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 99 demand for hotel accommodations. The old part of Rome, which has the relics of antiquity, now represents but a small part of the present city. This is, however, colossal and rich in historic interest. Our first day was devoted to driving about the city, getting the lay of the land and seeing from the outside. Rome, known in antiquity as the " Eternal City," once the capital of the ancient world, afterwards of the spiritual Empire of the Popes, and since A. D. 1871, the capital of the Kingdom of Italy, now has a population of about 450,0.00 inhab- itants, about one quarter of what it was when Rome was in its glory during the Imperial epoch. Our first visit to the Church of St. Peter's was early Sunday morning, where we witnessed the morning service and saw the throngs of spectators and worshipers, number- ing thousands, but owing to its immense size it was not at all crowded. This is the largest, if not the most magnificent church in the world; its area is 18,000 square yards, while the Cathedral of Milan is only 10,000. Owing to its interior construction it does not look as large as it is. Its exterior is not nearly as sightly as the Cathedral of Milan, still the view from the distance and the near approach to it is very grand and imposing. To the right and adjoining it is the Vatican, the largest palace in the world, a part of which is occupied by the Pope, who poses as a prisoner and seldom leaves it. It has twenty courts and is said to comprise 1 1,000 halls, 100 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. chapels and private rooms, the greater part of which are devoted to the museum, in which are shown celebrated ancient paintings, sculpture, etc. The Sistine chapel contained therein is the only place of worship that the Pope visits. The biblical paintings by Raphael and Michael Angelo are the perfection of art and the ad- miration of the world. The interior of St. Peter's contains the most cel- ebrated sculpture, paintings and mosaics ; and the view of the dome, over three hundred feet in height, is seen to the best advantage from within. The sitting statue of St. Peter, in bronze, on a throne of white marble beneath a canopy, above which is a mosaic portrait of Pius XII., attracts great attention. The right foot of St. Peter is almost worn away by the kisses of devotees, of whom we saw a constant procession of men, women and children of the peasant class press it with their lips and wipe it with their hands or their sleeves. We saw none of the priests or better classes doing this, which to us seemed a little strange. We visited the Cathedral of St. Paul, located about two miles outside of the gates, and we pronounce it the perfection of art, elegance and architecture. It stands the most gorgeous monument of Catholic devotion the world can show. Under its high altar lie the remains (according to church authorities) of SS. Peter and Paul. Nothing could be more beautiful than this edifice, with A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. IOI its magnificent nave and aisles, its roof so exquisitely carved, its granite columns, eighty in number, of the Corinthian order. The high altar, standing under a canopy supported by four columns of white alabaster, was presented by Mohammed Ali to Gregory XVI. The portraits of the Popes in mosaic, some 264 in number, are very fine and conspicuous. .. The Forum Romanum and the adjacent ruins, covering a space of sev- , era! acres, rep- resent the most marvelous col- THE FORUM, ROME. IcCtiOtt of the remains of antiquity. From the Cloaca Maxima and the Marmertine Prison, the work of early kings, built nearly twenty-five centuries ago, down to the Basilica of Constantine, we see an almost complete series of the ruins of the buildings of all epochs, the Forum itself lying in the valley between the Palatine and Capitoline hills, being the nucleus, as if Rome grouped all her most glorious works around the cradle of power the place of popular assemblies. A number of columns and arches are still standing that show the outlines of the Temple of Concord, Temple of Vespasian and Saturn, the Arch IO2 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. of Septimius Severus, Column of Phocas and the huge ruins of the Palace of the Caesars. Several other relics, marking historic sites upon these ancient grounds, were pointed out to us, and we fully appreciated the opportunity of being upon the grounds made famous by the early Roman fathers. The history of Rome its rise and fall teaches a lesson that should not be overlooked by our government and our people. Great wealth, fame and honor can only be sustained by honorable and conservative methods. Consciousness of great power and liberties, with the lack of eternal vigilance, is the stumbling block of nations, as well as individuals. Success is reached by heroic efforts, self- denial and many hardships. The danger points are greatest at the heights of success, when, for lack of discretion and watchfulness, extravagance and dissipa- tion lead to downfall and ruin. Such was the history of early Rome. History repeats itself, and Italy should profit by its early history of Rome. The socialistic and republican elements are making very little head- way, and the government is curtailing expenditures to lessen the excessive taxation that has become so bur- densome to its people. The Flavian amphitheater, known as the Colosseum, is an immense structure, and part of the outer walls remain intact, except for the wear and tear, and wars in ages past. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 103 This greatest of antique structures, built in honor of Titus, and on which it is said 60,000 Jews were engaged ten years, is said to have given seats to 87,000 specta- tors and was inaugurated A. D. 81, on which occasion 5,000 wild animals and 10,000 captives were slain. The inauguration lasted one hundred days. The circumfer- ence of the building is 1,641 feet; height of the outer wall, I C7 ' Jt ir v ' the 1C T'; ? arena> 2? and width 177 feet, covering a space of COLOSSEUM, ROMK. six aCTCS. Our first visit was by daylight, when we obtained a good idea of its size and former beauty; our next by night, when we saw it illuminated with Bengal-lights and other fireworks. Thousands of people were present and the view was grand indeed. There are three styles of architecture Doric, Ionic and Corinthian. On each tier were differently colored lights, and the effect was beautiful and gave us a good idea of its enormous size and beauty, as in its former palmy days. The walls are very solid and of immense thickness, and that which is now remaining will no doubt remain for all time to come. The Baths of Caracalla cover a large space and their magnitude is far greater than anything of the IO4 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. kind that has been produced in modern days. The walls are very thick and are in some parts as orig- inally erected. Here we saw the dressing rooms, sweat baths and plunging pools, constructed much like those now in use, but so much larger that by comparison it is like an elephant beside a mouse. No doubt the ancient Romans found great pleasure and health in their extensive baths, which the present genera- tion has neglect- ed to provide. Pure water in abundance is brought from the mountains, some thirty INTERIOR COLOSSEUM, ROME. miles away, in aqueducts, and public fountains are numerous, some of which are very fine, but mostly ancient. The Pantheon, the best preserved of all the old churches, contains the resting place of Raphael, marked by an inscription in the wall. A fine statue of the Ma- donna was his gift, executed by Lorenzo Lotto. Rome abounds in churches, ancient and modern, all of which contain something of historic interest, but for lack of time we could visit but the few mentioned. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 105 We visited the catacombs outside of the city, via. Apia, but they were not particularly interesting. They are in charge of monks, who for a fee and with candles descend into mother earth, where rest the bones of saints, and probably sinners, in great numbers. A small chapel where the Christians worshiped and rooms where they lived, alongside and connecting with the tombs of the dead, gave us the impression that the dead were better off than had been the living. Beneath one of the churches in Rome we saw the skulls and bones of departed monks by the cord; also the mummy forms laid out in their former costumes, around which was earth brought from Jerusalem (where soil is very scarce and must come high). The Pincio is a small but charming little park, from which a beautiful view of the city is obtained. It abounds in statuary, and in its approach from the west, as you ascend the mountain, some of the monuments are very large and impressive. The queen is supposed to drive in the park every afternoon, but we failed to see her. However, we saw the king. Sunday afternoon we drove out of the city on the road to the race course, where racing was held, and the king was present. Pulling out to the roadside we awaited his coming, and soon we saw him, a live king and a fine-looking man. Notwithstanding the cold, raw wind he kept his hat in 106 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. his hand and continually bowed to the people, who were massed along the roadside to get a look at him. He was unaccompanied by military escort, and but for the ovation paid him by the people we would not have known him from the other well-dressed gentlemen who had taken in the races and were returning to the city. The king is very popular with the soldiers and the upper classes, and but for the extravagance of his father prior to his accession to the throne, the present govern- ment would be on a much better financial basis. He has been scrupulously honorable in money matters, not only relinquishing a third of his civil list to the treasury, with the object of lightening the burden of taxation on his subjects, but making a point of paying every dollar of the enormous personal debts left by his father, debts which the national legislature offered to pay out of the public exchequer, but which King Hum- bert insisted upon assuming charge of himself. Under the system inaugurated by him of having the soldiers taught to read and write, while in the service, the intelligence of the illiterate masses is on the gain, and it is estimated now that fifty per cent of the popu- lation have that accomplishment, while a few years ago only ten per cent, of the mountaineers or peasants could read or write. However, a greater gain of intelligence must be had before a republican form of government would be practicable. This is the worst A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 107 feature that our government has to contend with and threatens us with great harm the franchise or elective power of the ignorant and foreign-born population, who are influenced by designing politicians to become citizens for party power. Enough of this but of Rome, with its wonders of the past and its beauties as at present! We feel that we are going to leave too soon, and yet we shall be glad to get home. Our trip has been fairly enjoyable if not profitable. We have kept well and have been very busy. Our heads are full of the strange and interesting things we have seen. It is somewhat like a dream, but the stern reality comes in when we look at our bank balance. The trip has been as easy as we could make it, but many discom- forts and hardships have been endured. The bitter with the sweet must be taken all through life, and in the end we are weighed in the balance, and, as is too often the case, we are found wanting. Yours truly, APPENDIX OUR LIST OF PASSENGERS (NOT INCLUDING THOSE WHO JOINED US AT GENOA.) Mr. H. O. Armour (and man servant) New York Mrs. Armour New York Mr. W. P. Allen Cloquet, Minn. Mrs. Allen Cloquet, Minn. Mr. W. L. Avery Grand Rapids, Mich. Miss Julia D. Anderson Grand Rapids, Mich. Mr. James W. Arrott Pittsburgh, Pa. Miss Jane Arrott Pittsburgh, Pa. Mr. W. Vernon Booth Chicago, 111. Mrs. Booth Chicago, 111. Mrs. Matthew Baird Merion, Pa. The Misses Baird Merion, Pa. Mr. Sumner A. Brooks North Cambridge, Mass. Mr. E. C. Benedict New York The Misses Benedict (and maid) New York Mr. G. Genge Browning Devon, Pa. Mrs. Browning Devon, Pa. Mr. Daniel W. Burrows Chicago, 111. Mr. Charles J. Bulkeley New York Mrs. Bulkeley New York Mrs. Guy C. Bayley Poughkeepsie Mr. James Baird Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Baird Philadelphia, Pa. Miss C. H. Baird (and maid) Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. W. Mercer Baird Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. Charles T. Baird Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. John R. Bartlett Providence, R. I. 112 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. Mr. Louis J. Bauer Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. Frank H. Baker Chicago, 111. Mrs. Baker Chicago, 111. Mr. N. L. Barnes Chicago, 111. Miss Laura Balch Youngstown, O. Mr. Hervy Bates, Jr Indianapolis, Ind. Mrs. Bates Indianapolis, Ind. Mr. Horace C. Brewster Rochester, N. Y. Mrs. Brewster Rochester, N. Y. Miss Marie Brewster Rochester, N. Y. Mr. Stephen E. Brooks Cleveland, O. Mrs. Brooks Cleveland, O. Mr. O. W. Buckingham New York Mrs. Buckingham New York Miss Myra Boyd Pittsburgh, Pa. Miss Kate Batcheller Columbus, O. Mr. John W. Blodgett. Grand Rapids, Mich. Mr. J. Percy Brinton Westchester, Pa. Mr. A. W. Butterworth Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Butterworth Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. A. K. Bolan Xew York Mr. E. G. Beach Chicago, 111. Mr. J. L. Brewster Boston, Mass. Mrs. Brewster Boston, Mass. Geo. Bullen, wife and son Chicago, 111. Mr. N. Curtis Boston, Mass. Mr. Eugene T. Curtis Rochester, N. Y. Mrs. Curtis Rochester, N. Y. Master Joseph Curtis Rochester, N. Y. Mr. M. A. Chapin Chicago, 111. Miss Alice Chapin Chicago, 111. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 113 Mr. Greenleaf Clark St. Paul, Minn. Mr. Samuel H. Cramp Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Cramp Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. R. P. Clapp New York Miss Clapp Grand Rapids, Mich. Mr. George H. Cox Cambridge, Mass. Mrs. Cox Cambridge, Mass. Mr. Charles Dissel Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Dissel Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. Charles H. Davis Worcester, Mass. Mrs. Davis Worcester, Mass. Mr. H. A. Duhring Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Julia A. Denton Grand Rapids, Mich. Mr. Richard S. Dana New York Miss Elizabeth M. Davol New York Mr. Melville C. Day New York Mr. Paul Dana New York Mrs. Dana New York Mr. Henry Eder Chicago, 111. Mr. Charles W. Eaton Grand Rapids, Mich. Miss Zilla Eaton Grand Rapids, Mich. Mr. W. D. Eaton Boston, Mass. Mfs. Eaton Boston, Mass. Mr. A. R. Flower New York Mrs. Flower New York Mr. G. T. Ford Youngstown, O. Mrs. Ford Youngstown, O. Mr. Tod Ford Youngstown, O. Master Tod Ford Youngstown, O. Master Freeman Ford Youngstown, O. Mr. George S. Fox Philadelphia, Pa. 114 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. Mrs. Fox Philadelphia, Pa. Miss F. J . Prowler New York. Mr. Alden Freeman East Orange, N. J. Mr. George C. Greene Buffalo, N. Y. Mrs. Greene Buffalo, N. Y. Mr. H. Cowing Boston, Mass. Mrs. Gowing Boston, Mass. Miss Julia Garlick Youngstown, O. Mr. W. B. Gamble Detroit, Mich. Mrs. Grundy Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Grundy Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. R. T. Gumpert Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. Andrew Low Green Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. Al. Hayman New York. Mrs. Hayman New York. Miss Margaret S. Hubbard Middletown, Conn. Mr. D. H. Hersey St. Paul, Minn. Mrs. Hersey St. Paul, Minn. Mr. A. G. Hodenpyl Grand Rapids, Mich. Mrs. Hodenpyl Grand Rapids, Mich. Miss Hughes Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. N. P. Hill Denver, Col. Mr. E. Burton Holmes Chicago, 111. Mr. D. G. Hamilton Chicago, 111. Mrs. Hamilton Chicago, 111. Miss Adelaide Hamilton Chicago, 111. Mr. F. Thornton Hunt New Haven, Conn. Mrs. H. D. Harper Chicago, 111. Mr. H. J. Heinz Pittsburgh, Pa. Mr. Clarence N. Heinz Pittsburgh, Pa. Miss Irene Heinz Pittsburgh, P;i. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 115 Mr. W. M. Hoyt Chicago, 111. Mrs. Hoyt Chicago, 111. Mr. Phelps B. Hoyt Chicago, 111. Mrs. E. C. Idler Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. George Ingram Brooklyn, N. Y. Mr. John Inglis Chicago, 111. Miss Helen S. Jones Chicago, 111. Miss K. R. Jones Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. G. S. Kimbal Boston, Mass. Mrs. Kimbal Boston, Mass. Miss Emma C. Kellogg Chicago, 111. Mr. Josiah L. Lombard Chicago, 111. Mrs. Lombard Chicago, 111. Hon. Homer N. Lockwood New York Mr. L. Lamb Clinton, la. Mrs. Lamb Clinton, la. Mr. Andrew E. Leicht Chicago, 111. Mrs. Leicht Chicago, 111. Miss Stella Leicht Chicago, 111. Mr. William K. Leicht New York Miss Frances E. Lake New York Miss H. Josephine Landon Chicago, 111. Mr. Louis B. Leach Wamego, Kan. Mrs. Leach Wamego, Kan. Mr. Julius Loeser Chicago, 111. Mrs. Isaac P. Martin (and maid) New York Mr. Stephen W. Marston Boston, Mass. Mr. Samuel P. McDivitt Chicago, 111. Miss Henrietta H. McCormick Chicago, 111. Mrs. C. L. Mitchell (and maid) New Haven, Conn. Mr. E. A. Mitchell New Haven, Conn. Il6 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. Mr. A. W. F. Manifold Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. A. L. Murdock Boston, Mass. Mr. George Meyer Chicago, 111. Mrs. Meyer Chicago, 111. Miss Jenny Meyer Chicago, III. Master George Meyer Chicago, 111. Miss A. Meyer Chicago, 111. Mr. W. C. McMillan Buffalo, N. Y. Mrs. McMillan Buffalo, N. Y. Mr. Frank Nalle Richmond, Va. Dr. Katharine Northrop Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Okie Devon, Pa. Dr. E. H. Peaslee New York Mrs. Peaslee New York Mr. W. E. Phillips Chicago, 111. Mrs. R. A. Paxton Hornellsville, N. Y. Roswell Park, M. D Buffalo, N. Y. Mr. Edmund J. Phelps Minneapolis, Minn. Mrs. Phelps Minneapolis, Minn. Miss Ruth S. Phelps Minneapolis, Minn. Master Richardson E. Phelps Minneapolis, Minn. Mr. J. P. Pomeroy Boston, Mass. Mr. J. W. Paul (and man servant) Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Paul Philadelphia, Pa. Master Paul Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Paul Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. W. W. Paul Philadelphia, Pa. Bishop Perry Davenport, la. Mrs. Perry Davenport, la. Miss Perry Davenport, la. Mr. Bronson C. Rumsey Buffalo, N. Y. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 117 Mr. Thomas Rutter New York Mrs. Rutter New York Mr. R. K. Root Buffalo, N. Y. Mrs. Root Buffalo, N. Y. Miss Elisa S. Rodgers Columbus, O. Mr. Jesse Rosenthal New York Mrs. Rosenthal New York Mr. L. H. Redner Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Lucy Hubbard Russell Middletown, Conn. Dr. A. Sydney Roberts Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Ruth C. Richardson Minneapolis, Minn. Mr. R. Lee Robinson Louisville, Ky. Mrs. Robinson Louisville, Ky. Mr. David T. Roberts New Haven, Conn. Mr. James W. Scott Chicago, 111. Mrs. Scott Chicago, 111. Mr. Thos. H. Shevlin Minneapolis, Minn. Mrs. Shevlin Minneapolis, Minn. Mr. J. S. Sanborn Boston, Mass. Miss H. J. Sanborn Boston, Mass. Mr. A. H. Sands New York Miss Helen E. Snow Chicago, 111. Mr. T. Guilford Smith Buffalo, N. Y. Mrs. Smith Buffalo, N. Y. Mr. Charles E. Strong New York Mrs. Austin Sands Newport, R. I. Miss H. Schankland Newport, R. I. Mr. James Streat New York Miss B. Streat New York Mr. Adolph A. Strohn Brooklyn, N. Y. Mr. L. M. Smith St. Joseph, Mo. Il8 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. Mr. Edward G. Stoiber Silverton, Col. Mrs. Stoiber Silverton, Col. Mr. Charles H. Smith Chicago, 111. Mr. C. B. Smith Chicago, 111. Mr. E. M. Steck Chicago, 111. Mr. Julian C. Smyth Roxbury, Mass. Mrs. Smyth Roxbury, Mass. Mr. John B. Simpson Binghamton, N. Y. Mr. L. Schlather Cleveland, O. Miss Emilie Schlather Cleveland, O. Judge Lambert Tree Chicago, 111. Mrs. Tree Chicago, 111. Miss Nellie F. Tree (and maid) Richmond, Va. Mr. Herbert L. Taft Boston, Mass. Mr. James C. Truman Binghamton, N. Y. Mr. F. D. Tappen New York Mr. Frederick Diodati Thompson New York Mr. Charles S. Tainter Washington, D. C. Mrs. Tainter Washington, D. C. Miss A. Tebo New York Mr. Guido Testa New York Mr. F. S. Winston Chicago, 111. Mrs. Winston Chicago, 111. Mr. Raymond S. Wilder North Cambridge, Mass. Mr. H. B. Wilson New York Mrs. Wilson New York Mr. J. S. Wells Binghamton, N. Y. Mr. J. Stewart Wells Binghamton, N. Y. Mrs. M. C. Windsor Hornellsville, N. Y. Mr. Percy G. Williams Brooklyn, N. Y. Mrs. Williams Brooklyn, N. Y. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 119 Mr. George P. Wanty Grand Rapids, Mich. Mr. J. O. West New York Mrs. West New York Mr. George H. Webster Chicago, 111. Mrs. Webster Chicago, 111. Mr. Herman Webster Chicago, 111. Miss May Webster Chicago, 111. Miss Kate G. Webster Chicago, 111. Miss A. P. Williams Chicago, 111. Miss C. B. Williams Chicago, 111. Mr. Simon B. Williams Chicago, 111. Mr. Irving W. Wheeler Boston, Mass. Mrs. H. A. Washburne New York Bishop Walker Fargo, N. D. Mr. E. S. Wilson Ironton, O. Mrs. A. Whartenby Philadelphia, Pa. Miss Whartenby Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. W. P. Woodward New York Mrs. Woodward New York PERSONAL MENTION. Of fat personnel of our ship companions as shown by the passenger list, we would mention, in a brief way, that the general make-up was that of a happy and contented family. Being together, as we were, for about two months, we became quite well acquainted, and from such acquaintance were of the opinion that it was very fortunate so many nice and agreeable people should have been brought together for this trip. Possibly, in traveling, we only see the best side of human nature, and it has been our experience that to get well acquainted with our neighbors at home is to meet them while traveling abroad. Great credit is due to the ladies of our party, for their quiet and uncomplaining demeanor, while under- going some of the hardships of the trip. Those who at home have all the comforts and luxuries of life and living, seemed just as natural and contented while walking through the streets or riding in rickety old carryalls, as they would have been at home with their handsome equipages. Is not the best and truest quality of woman found in adversity? As for the men of our party, they were disposed to make the best of everything, and, as a rule, had a very good time. The smoking room on ship was a great 122 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. resort for whiling away time. The card tables were well patronized, and poker chips in good demand. The florid, pleasant-faced gentleman from New York, who spent hours at the table, seemed to be in luck, and while others were calling for more chips, he would reach down into his pocket, where it ever seems that there Armour (are more.) A Booth, that makes a good stand, may well be proud of a good son for successor. The genial Mr. Benedict, of New York City, told a good joke on himself. In going from Genoa to Monte Carlo, while passing through the custom house on the frontier, he had his pocket picked, in which was a small sum of money and a letter of introduction from President Grover Cleveland. As for the loss of the money, he did not care so much, but to lose the letter was a great disappointment. Thinking, possibly, it might be put to bad use, he wrote to the president of the loss, expressing regrets, and hoping no bad results would come of his misfortune. In due time he re- ceived a reply from the president, who stated, " he was not surprised, and that Mr. Benedict was not the first man who had lost his character while traveling abroad." The menu on ship was excellent, just as it should have been; we had a good Chicago Baker on board. In my donkey ride to Memphis, I thought I would like to ride beside the agreeable lady from Indiana, who was an excellent rider, and led the crowd. I did A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 123 my best to overtake her, but I could not, and like the Irishman, I said to myself, she "Bates" all. We had very little sickness on board; several had hard colds, but so far as I know there were only two " Cramps" and yet they were not of a dangerous character. " Duhring" all the trip the gentleman from Philadelphia was disposed to take in everything and en- joy it. Our friend from the Quaker City who suffered so much from seasickness, would not be consoled. By " George!" he would stay in his bunk day after day like a "Fox" in his hole, but on land he was not the same, and at that little evening party made up in Cairo we discovered he was as funny as " Foxey" We did not become intimately acquainted with the lumberman from Minnesota, but from " Hersey " (hear say) we know him to be a very agreeable gentleman. We all have great appreciation and admiration for lovely homes. A representative of one of the best "Holmes " in Chicago was of our party. I must mention the jovial Mr. Hamilton who, with his charming wife and lovely daughter, chartered a private car from Jaffa to Jerusalem, in which we were invited to ride, and accepted. While he was not given the name of "Alexander" he bears his honors well. Of our passengers we had quite a number of Ger- mans, but only one " Inglis" (English you know). As representatives of the forest we had the " Lombard-" y 124 A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. (very popular). The graceful and quiet " Beach " was much admired. As I sat in the dining saloon morn, noon and night, at the table at the bow of the ship I could see but to admire the shining and attractive " Leichts" (lights) that were reflected from the table. The mart in which we did the most shopping was Constantinople. The "Mart-in" in which we found the most pleasure was one of us. Great "Scott!" but was not this trip " Herald "-ed at home and abroad! He of our number who was best "Post"-ed was a good representative of Chicago's greatness and best social element. Speaking of trees, the beautiful magnolia was repre- sented from Virginia, the sturdy oak and old hickory from Chicago; these were my impressions " Judge '-ing from what I have seen and know of " Trees'' No wonder that our gifted lawyer felt able to make the trip. A man who is successful and " Wins-ton s" of the good things of this world can gratify his tastes as well as his ambition. 28217