las- 
 
 JOHN HENRY NASH 
 
^^L 
 
 

 
 
/////..// Y 
 
 rfla^_ 9^fflr^r^r^ 
 
EXLIBRIS UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 <> SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 PRESENTED TO THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 ROBERT GORDON SPROUL, PRESIDENT. 
 <$> BY * 
 
 MR.ANDMRS.MILTON S.RAY 
 CECILY, VIRGINIA AND ROSALYN RAY 
 
 AND THE 
 
 RAY OIL BURNER COMPANY 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 NEW YORK. 
 
on South America with Variations! 
 
 From San Francisco to New York 
 on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 from March II th to June I st 1 916 
 by MARJORIE G. JOSSELYN 
 
 Privately Printed by 
 
 JOHN HENRY N ASH for JOHN HOWELL 
 
 San Francisco 
 
TO THE CYPRUS 
 
 WHO SUBSEQUENTLY GAVE 
 
 HER LIFE FOR HER 
 
 COUNTRY 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 
 
 may be dull sounding details in my humble 
 effort to record this journey to South America, but 
 although this is the first day, I am convinced that 
 the fault will be mine. 'That hackneyed phrase, 
 which is almost invariably found some where with in the first few 
 pages of records where the personal pronoun is used, has always 
 seemed to me to be far-fetched and wholly unnecessary, but per- 
 haps it is n't after all! Any dullness ahead of us seems incred- 
 ible- adventure, and such things, yes perhaps, but anyone who 
 could be bored shall not be mentioned. 
 
 yust because it's all true, a really truly cross-my -he art-to- 
 die-true fairy tale, I must begin from the beginning, tho' it' s 
 a temptation to foresee a plot and follow the best of all good ex- 
 amples by beginning in the middle likeyoseph Conrad. At least 
 I aspire high ! Let that be to my credit. 
 
 On the II th of March at 6 p.m., Virginia and 'Jack, our 
 hosts and friends, Mary and Walter, more friends, Mr. and 
 Mrs. Tooker, who were strangers to me but already friends, 
 Dr. Allen, to whom it is forbidden to make love, and" Cappie" 
 Black to whom it isn't, started on this journey. Considering 
 the sleeping-car stories one reads of, and those that are blush- 
 ingly told as personal experiences, we should be able to add to 
 the number, but having determined to tell the truth and noth- 
 ing but the truth, I am forced to admit that the trip to Los 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 Angeles was just a plain and uneventful one. Arriving on 
 the Sabbath in that estimable (this for the benefit of any Los 
 Angelite whose eye might light on this) city, Virginia, Mary, 
 and Walter, left us at the railroad station, announcing their 
 intention to go to Church . . . to be more accurate, I recall 
 that we actually took them there, and when they returned, I 
 must admit they spoke intelligibly of the service, etc. Of course 
 we have our doubts, but in view of the Time and Place, pos- 
 sibly they did remain for a moment, thtf with my own eyes, I 
 saw the entire congregation filing out of the Church just as 
 they entered, which seemed to suggest that the service was a 
 thing of the past. However, if their intentions were good we '// 
 forgive them ! Speaking of biblical things," Cappie" was not 
 going to be outdone by a little Sunday church-going, so he put 
 in the morning by having a mote removed from his eye ! Mary, 
 Walter, Virginia, and I breakfasted with Walter Van Pelt at 
 the California Club, and when I remember what a good break- 
 fast it was and what an agreeable hour we spent, my conscience 
 pricks me frightfully at the unconscionable things I think of 
 Los Angeles. 
 
 At 1:15 (having been threatened with being eternally boiled 
 in oil did we arrive a minute late) we all met again and were 
 joined by Mr. and Mrs. Aldrich. By 'way of forestalling the 
 possibility of any disagreeable thing, we motored to San Pedro; 
 a so much pleasanter way of getting there than climbing into 
 a hot stuffy train, with the odor of stale orange peel, the exas- 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 perating cries of babies poor blameless little things and Introductory 
 the general annoyances of the inevitable Sunday picnic crowd. 
 Without delay we got into the launch, and within a few min- 
 utes were alongside the CYPRUS. A blue, sunshiny sky, and 
 water as smooth as glass. 
 
 No need or rather no use to attempt a description of the CY- 
 PRUS. She is indescribable. Indescribably beautiful, indescrib- 
 ably luxurious, and indescribably cosy; yes, cosy, there is no 
 other word. She is big or little, just as you please. She conforms 
 herself to your every mood. She is gay, she is quiet, she is every- 
 thing that makes the world seem to be a place where it is worth 
 one's while to live and be happy in ! 
 
 The afternoon was spent in unpacking and getting" settled" 
 a kind of frantic desire to get over the only unpleasant detail 
 before enjoying to the full every moment of every other day. 
 The room I am writing in is full of great tubs of rhododen- 
 drons and baskets of blooming rambler roses; one would like to 
 curl up in any one of all the nice comfortable chairs with a 
 book, it is so homelike the whole room, all the rooms. This is 
 just too good to be true and yet here we are, with no rules and 
 regulations such as invariably accompany all the things that 
 are worth while. It is like a fairy -land park to the small boy 
 with a dog; he looks in vain for the signs: "It is forbidden to 
 walk on the grass," "Loose dogs prohibited," "Children are 
 not allowed to climb the trees or to pick the flowers" etc., etc. 
 
 The evening hardly existed for "the ladies" ; that is, after 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 Introductory dinner which left one unreminiscent of Paris, London, or New 
 York, we all retired not to a berth or a bunk, but to a large 
 comfortable bed. Is it permitted to go into details and to add: 
 with linen sheets and soft pillows, and a splendid light to read 
 by"? Anyway, those are the fatts. 
 
 Monday "T N MY own good time this morning, I rang for my breakfast, 
 JL which was brought to me on a dainty white tray, a little gold 
 and white breakfast set, with coffee too hot to drink and toast 
 so crisp and hot that it fairly burned my tongue. I should just 
 like to ask if that sounds like a discouraging way to begin the 
 day? 
 
 The first order of the day was a veritable command! Vaccina- 
 tion. One and all we assembled in the Music Room and Dr. 
 Allen spent a busy morning, indeed a busy afternoon too. The 
 " ladies " must be vaccinated on the leg, the cry being, "What of 
 low neck ? " though Dr. Allen had not suggested the neck as being 
 the one and only proper place. But the audience was "extensive 
 and peculiar" and very observing, and it was no opportunity to 
 be missed. The present style of very short skirts made it only 
 necessary to raise the hem an inch or two and thus the "ladies" 
 eternal plea of modesty was mollified!!! I secretly believe men 
 enjoy extravagantly going about in their shirt sleeves, for long 
 before their turn they appeared in that garb, with a sort of 
 "Now I have an excuse at last!" look, that betrayed them. 
 Then Dr. Allen, who apparently enjoys his profession, busied 
 himself with the crew, with always the same object in view. 
 Not so successfully however, for one youth fainted dead away 
 (the doctor must have been "untold gentle" with the "ladies" 
 . . . they would never have missed such an opportunity, had 
 they known!) and another bright-eyed lad surreptitiously es- 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 caped by climbing like a monkey to the top of the mast! When 
 Dr. Allen was last seen, he was squatting below, alcohol, absor- 
 bent cotton, vaccine, etc., laid out invitingly beside him. I am 
 wondering which one will stick it out? We shall see what we 
 shall see. 
 
 Luncheon . . . such a good luncheon: codfish in cream, Virginia 
 ham and potato salad with a soupc.on of onion; other things too, 
 but I couldn't quite resist mentioning those, . . . interrupted 
 the vaccination party, and afterward we dispersed as really 
 right-minded guests should. The word "guests" brings me to 
 the question: Are we guests? We might each be owners, hosts, 
 or anything we please. The atmosphere is that of being at home, 
 with the family away! It's delightful. A little bridge this 
 afternoon, pleasantly, quietly, comfortably; no insistence, no 
 unwillingness. I'm not perfectly convinced as yet that we 
 haven't all died and gone to Heaven!! 
 
 This evening the "ladies" devoted to modelling; modelling in 
 pink clay. It would be a wicked lie to say they succeeded. Suc- 
 cess means so much! But, before long rough work rather, of 
 the Rodin school the mantel was adorned with six or seven 
 objects of interest. Virginia created an unmistakable head of 
 "Marie-Jose de Belgique"; Walter's "Winged Victory" was a 
 chef d'oeuvre; my own work privilege of authorship in more 
 ways than one it is becoming not to mention! However, the 
 enthusiasm for sculpture was not very prolonged, as with the 
 exception of Walter who will always try anything once the 
 men took no interest, and when the men take no interest, it is a 
 matter of serious consideration to the women! Just why they 
 took no interest, is of course a matter of conjecture, but I 
 strongly suspect they hate undertaking anything they can't see 
 themselves excelling in, and it's not so thundering simple to 
 startle the world as a sculptor! 
 
 Monday 
 March ijtb 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 Tuesday 
 March 1.^ 
 
 THE future may have other days like to-day, but I'll war- 
 rant there has never been one before. The fear of ridi- 
 cule, which hurts me just as much as it does you, is the only 
 thing that prevents me from going into ecstatic detail over the 
 sky and the water, the temperature of a warm day with a cool 
 breeze, a smooth sea, a sunset in Magdalena Bay, and an almost 
 sunlike brilliant moon. I really would like to borrow all the 
 expressions of a Hitchens "Garden-of-Allah" chapter or two, and 
 then add a few of my own, but you'll make fun of me if I 
 describe it as I see it, because my attempt at eloquence would be 
 childishly pathetic. Fancy writing all I intend to, and then hav- 
 ing you fling it in the wastepaper basket on the morning of the 
 second day, just because it was a beautiful day! The irony of it! 
 This morning began by being Moving Picture day with a 
 vengeance. Poor Mr. Aldrich was given enough advice about 
 how to set up his camera, and how to take the pictures, to last 
 him through the rest of what I trust will be a long and happy 
 life! If the men hadn't been in .a state of almost complete 
 exhaustion from the argument of the previous evening over the 
 "metacentre" of a boat, they'd still be discussing the advisa- 
 bility of an 8-stop as opposed to a 16, and 20 feet distance as 
 preferable to 10. Mr. Aldrich plays no favorites. The wisdom 
 and justice of a Solomon were exhibited. After half a dozen 
 rehearsals, he wound off a picture with an 8-stop at 10 feet and 
 then a complete repetition of events with a i6-stop at 20 feet. 
 Can a man be more tactful, more considerate? "Please every- 
 body," that's his motto, and he is going to stick to it. As "movie 
 actors" I can't say we shone. Charlie Chaplin need have no 
 qualms over being done out of his $10,000 a week through any 
 competition of ours. We were just a band of self-conscious, jib- 
 bering idiots, and the worst of it is, with two entirely separate 
 sets of pictures, it's bound to be proved! 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 The first sight of land since leaving San Pedro caused a mild 
 stir of excitement, but I rather hated it; there was a suggestion 
 in my mind that we'd land and that then I should wake up and 
 find myself at home and begin to ponder over the fertility of 
 imagination in dreams! 
 
 At six or thereabouts, we ran into Magdalena Bay, where the 
 sun set as before mentioned, in a manner I refrain from describ- 
 ing, though I 'm positively pining to do so. 
 
 After dinner, armed with cushions and rugs, everybody went 
 up to the fo 'castle deck and huddled together for all the world 
 like a lot of Belgian refugees exhausted from tramping to a 
 place of safety. The moon, the still cool air, the peace of it all, 
 was just permeating everybody and everything, when, shades 
 of good judgment, wisdom and common sense, that deplorable 
 doctor to whom it is forbidden to make love (and "Cappie" 
 right there too, practically inextricably there!) said there was 
 a heavy dew, and what is more, like Alice in Wonderland, he 
 said it three times, so we knew it was true, and there was noth- 
 ing left to do but "to take up our beds and walk." He just 
 drove us to it: gambling, I mean! There we all were, in the most 
 receptive mood possible, dwelling secretly and deliciously on 
 the beauty of nature, and secretly and deliciously aware of our 
 marvelous individual sense of appreciation, when BANG! we're 
 driven back to commonplace realities; shuffling cards, wrang- 
 ling over dollars and cents. Now what on earth is one to do with 
 beautiful thoughts, with such a man on board? (I know; you 
 think I am grumbling at him because he is the man one is for- 
 bidden to make love to; perhaps you've guessed right!) 
 
 We passed a ship bound for San Pedro later on, but the Cyprus 
 didn't slow down, so of course we only had the merest fleeting 
 2oth Century Limited glimpse of a few lights. "Spark" (that's 
 the appropriate nickname of our wireless operator) was kindly 
 
 Tuesday 
 March i 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 8 
 
 Tuesday 
 March 
 
 Thursday 
 March 16 th 
 
 enough disposed to call out a friendly "Hello," but the ship 
 that passed in the night was a jealous old cat, and pretended 
 to be busy with very important messages in Spanish to San 
 Pedro, and hadn't the time or the inclination to waste, on a 
 beautiful bright young girl like the Cyprus. She slunk out of 
 sight, the envious old tub, but she hasn't forgotten us. We 
 rankle in her hard old heart. We're much too happy to be mean 
 though, and we're rather sorry for her, and glad of the certainty 
 that she can't meet any ship that sails the seas on the rest of 
 her dreary voyage, that can give her another such pang. 
 
 E 
 
 k ARLY this morning, that is, nine or thereabouts, we 
 steamed into the harbor of Manzanillo. We saw a small 
 bay surrounded by rugged hills, and with the town just build- 
 ing itself here and there, wherever its fancy led. From a 
 distance, it reminded one of the steep hilly towns in the mining 
 sections of Nevada County, California, but a nearer glimpse sug- 
 gested no place that I have ever seen before. The Cyprus hoisted 
 the Mexican flag after peeking surreptitiously about for any 
 signs of hostility (you see, we had had no news for more than 
 four days) and then raised a yellow flag, which, for the benefit 
 of any ignoramus like myself (if there is another) was an invita- 
 tion to the Health Officers to come on board. Soon a dejected 
 looking rowboat put off, and the Collector of the Port, accom- 
 panied by the Physician and some other men, boarded us. They 
 were very courteous and offered us the hospitality of Mexico! 
 Jack offered them some hospitality of perhaps a more immedi- 
 ately welcome kind and they all sat in a circle in the dining 
 room, imbibing it! After bows and salutations they departed, 
 leaving a representative on board so that we might be assured 
 of not being annoyed by pedlars; incidentally we rather sus- 
 pected that there may have also been some idea back of it to 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 the effect that in view of our "chaperone" we would be unable 
 to do any smuggling! When the "chaperone" left, Jack recom- 
 pensed him with a hundred dollar bill in payment for the hour 
 or two of his valuable time which was consumed at our expense! 
 But the hundred dollar bill though I hate to spoil a good 
 story was about equal to $2.50! 
 
 After these little formalities we all went over to Manzanillo. 
 The shore was lined with men and boys, mostly dressed in white 
 trousers, colored shirts, and each and every one wearing a som- 
 brero. I don't suppose they were in the least unfriendly; indeed 
 in their strange indolent way they were doubtless interested in 
 our arrival, as much as they were capable of being interested in 
 anything, but they all wore a rather sullen look. I fancy we would 
 wear a more sullen one still, if we lived in Manzanillo! 
 
 We walked through dry, dusty, dirty streets to the Consul's 
 Mr. Steddan's office, taking pictures as we strolled. Jack invited 
 Mr. Steddan to luncheon and asked him to bring his friends as 
 well. Then we explored the town, and saw all kinds and condi- 
 tions of things. The first place we entered was a saloon! Spa- 
 cious, cool and inviting, I must say. My eye lighted on a sign 
 over the Bar, which read: "Cerveza $4.00." Translated, this 
 means: "Beer 10 cents." An American named Garrett ap- 
 parently owned the place, and a most friendly and genial person 
 he was. In the back of the saloon were the usual court yard and 
 sheds, and perched up in one corner of a shed was a pros- 
 perous-looking monkey. He was by far the most affluent look- 
 ing inhabitant of Manzanillo. Garrett handed him a bottle of 
 beer (at $4.00 per bottle!) and if my very amateurish kodak 
 pictures come out, you will see that he had more than a vague 
 idea of what to do with it. Some Mexicans wandered in with 
 wonderfully beautiful aigrettes for sale, but we knew it was a 
 useless extravagance to buy any, as we would not be permitted 
 
 Thursday 
 March i6 tib 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 10 
 
 Thursday 
 March 16 th 
 
 to enter any port in the United States with them in our posses- 
 sion. O Land of the Free! There were some lovely soft gray 
 feathers however, etched as it were in a darker shade, and 
 Walter the Prince presented his bride with some of these. 
 Garrett pointed out his own house to us, seemingly suspended 
 in mid-air halfway up the steep hill above. The entire first floor 
 was a chicken yard, and over this were the porch and dwelling 
 rooms. There was a kind of perpetual-moving merry-go-round 
 tilted at an angle on the porch railing, with sailing ships in mini- 
 ature, at about the same distance apart as the hobby horses on 
 a real merry-go-round; it appeared to hang over the balustrade 
 like a blanket put out to air! For a while it puzzled me a good 
 deal, as it seemed to be too big and ponderous for a toy, until 
 I learned of the pest of flies and mosquitoes that infest the place 
 in summer. We wandered on up the street, if you can call it 
 that, and everything we saw was immensely interesting. 
 Apparently the only industry to be observed was lorded over 
 by the man who owned a machine for grinding corn. Women 
 and children stood in line waiting patiently, with bowls and in 
 fact every conceivable kind of receptacle filled with unground 
 corn, gossiping lazily, and only interrupting themselves and 
 each other, when the Corn Grinder Chief showed some pref- 
 erence for a black-eyed damsel, and accepted her dish out of 
 turn. The futility of protesting vehemently however must have 
 long since been abandoned, for it was inevitable that they 
 should wait their turn or the Corn Grinder's pleasure. There 
 would be no alternative. 
 
 Considering the extreme poverty of the place it struck me as 
 being remarkable that although there were only a handful of 
 houses, I must have seen and heard at least a dozen typewriters. 
 The people are dirty and slovenly and sodden to the last degree, 
 and yet as we walked by their houses, the interiors looked fairly 
 
 ZS 
 
 H 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 clean. Needless to say all doors and windows are left wide open. Thursday 
 The floors appeared to be washed and swept, and things more March 
 or less in their place. I am inclined to believe their rooms are 
 neat only because they are never in them, for practically the 
 entire population was in the street. To be sure one had glimpses 
 of dogs, chickens, and even a kind of pet pelican strolling about 
 the rooms or roosting on tables or chairs with perfect serenity, 
 but on the whole the houses looked about 90 per cent cleaner 
 than the inhabitants. At a corner of the main street there was 
 a little cart perched on two high wheels, with its owner standing 
 contentedly by, selling cocoanut milk (probably at $2 per cup) 
 and some thick sweet syrupy stuff, which looked decidedly 
 European. Such poor half-starved mangey dogs I could never 
 have believed existed! They were the most pathetic-looking 
 objects imaginable. I should like to collect them one and all 
 and take them to a cool clean country where they might regain 
 their canine self-respect, poor miserable creatures. And such 
 horses and such burros! At intervals they would come shamb- 
 ling down the street, just a moving rack of bones, about as big 
 as a really good-sized goat, with a full-sized man astride, often 
 leading a poor overburdened pack-beast after him. Always the 
 man wore dirty white trousers and always a perfectly enormous 
 sombrero, one that only just missed spreading a bit of shade 
 over the poor unfortunate burro's head too. We had a glimpse 
 of the school a child at the blackboard; one couldn't help but 
 wonder whether any good would come of her learning, if she 
 were destined to spend the remainder of her forlorn existence in 
 Manzanillo. Two other little girls I noticed were doing embroid- 
 ery, apparently waiting their turn at the blackboard. It all 
 seemed so futile and so pathetic as conditions exist there to-day. 
 The market place was populated chiefly with vultures, but 
 there were a few stalls around the cleared space where natives 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 I 2 
 
 Thursday 
 March i6 tb 
 
 were gathered in groups. We followed on up the street, past the 
 booths, and found ourselves in what we guessed without diffi- 
 culty to be the least respectable, but obviously a much fre- 
 quented part of town. It was despicably sordid, revolting; 
 perhaps more deserving of our sympathy than all the rest. Back 
 through the cobbled streets we ambled along, and when I say 
 "ambled" I mean we actually did so. An hour in Manzanillo 
 had already left its little mark. We stopped and looked into 
 shops and sheds and stared at the strange motley crowd who 
 were not even interested in us sufficiently to attempt to sell 
 anything. 
 
 Up another narrow street we came to the Church, built all of 
 brick with a tiled roof and situated on the height as churches 
 nearly always are in pioneer countries, overlooking the harbor 
 and the town. A huge bell in the garden and two others above 
 gave the place a semblance of an old mission, which no doubt 
 it was. Painted blue benches in the little chapel and the usual 
 tawdry lace altar cloths and chromos on the wall, but the 
 doors wide open for the stranger and the outcast, as all Catholic 
 Church doors are, and as the doors of all churches ought to be. 
 Wherever you may be in the whole of the great wide world, 
 if you 're turned out of house and home, out of the public square 
 or out of jail, the Catholic Church is a refuge. You may find 
 shelter there for as long as you like, and perhaps, if you believe, 
 you may find something else besides. 
 
 The color of the terrace stones and the tiles had softened to an 
 infinitely beautiful shade and a great spreading mimosa tree 
 made one wish to see it all by moonlight. It was easy and 
 tempting to picture the shadows and the great bell and the 
 dimly lighted town and the dark, still harbor. 
 
 Just as we started back for the launch, a Mexican transport 
 steamed into the bay, and we had a brief moment of wondering 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 &h:& 
 
 what was up. We ran up close to her however, and a more 
 dejected set of trampy-looking objects one couldn't conceive 
 of. The boat herself was a disgrace to any country, even Mexico. 
 There seemed to be more women than men aboard, but per- 
 haps that was merely because, as usual, they succeeded in being 
 more in evidence! Wherever the troops go, their women go 
 with them. The Bonita de Guaymas didn't bother us however. 
 That was the last of her as far as we were concerned, though 
 we learned she carried troops which were to be landed at Man- 
 zanillo and sent on to the interior. 
 
 As soon as we got back to the Cyprus, the men all began to 
 fish. Mr. Tooker caught a great floundering thing that I can't 
 name, but I ought to have a most impressive photograph of 
 one of the crew holding it up, if only my kodaks come out as 
 they should. 
 
 Mr. Steddan, Mr. Dunn, Mr. Wilbur and Mr. Bell then 
 arrived for luncheon, which I am convinced was a great pleasure 
 to them, as it was indeed for us. It was most interesting to hear 
 their views on the condition of affairs in Mexico, and we shud- 
 dered to think what they are actually driven to put up with. 
 Mr. Wilbur has a ranch up country and he told us of how three 
 times within the past few weeks bandits had come and had 
 taken everything that they could lay their hands upon. On one 
 occasion they had asked Mr. Steddan for stores or for something 
 that he actually did not have, and after giving him twenty-four 
 hours to procure the desired but non-existent plunder, they 
 burned one of his largest and most productive palm groves. 
 Both these men told us many tales of injustice, but they have 
 absolutely no redress. There is nothing to do. Until a few days 
 ago, the main railroad which runs direct to El Paso came in 
 every day, but now that is stopped and they are cut off from 
 all communication by land. The entire pier was burned in 1914 
 
 Thursday 
 March i6 tb 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Thursday 
 March i6 th 
 
 Friday 
 March itb 
 
 by Huerta soldiers, when they saw an American warship come 
 into the harbor. Over on a sandy beach there is a skeleton of a 
 steam schooner that was burned and destroyed at the same 
 time as the pier. They tried to blow up the break-water (for- 
 tunately they were unsuccessful in this), and then disappeared 
 into the interior. 
 
 It was "Cappie V birthday to-day and he had a real child's 
 party! He was dressed for dinner in a sailor suit, and certainly 
 nobody could have guessed his age either from his appearance 
 or his actions! Virginia had a cake with candles and all the rest 
 of it; Mary got the ring, a work of art made by the Chief En- 
 gineer, and I had more than my share of luck by finding the 
 anchor and the money too. "Cappie" was in fine form and 
 made a speech of course, to which Jack responded, and there 
 were Alphonse and Gaston "Soy siempre a la disposicion' de 
 Usted," etc. etc. The best I can wish anybody is that they have 
 enjoyed the day as much as I have. 
 
 AT 1 1 :oo this morning we ran into the harbor of Acapulco. It 
 is a really beautiful spot, situated somewhat the same as 
 Manzanillo but rather more tropical looking. There are the 
 same high hills, but a little more vegetation, several groves of 
 cocoanut palms along the shores, and the most inviting looking 
 sandy beaches dotted here and there. A fairly large schooner lay 
 anchored just in front of a V break in the hills, and five tall 
 palm trees loomed up in the opening. I had a vision of the sun 
 setting just exactly in that spot, and, as we seem to have 
 reached the land where dreams come true, that is exactly what 
 happened. The picture lasted only a very few minutes, but it 
 was a glorious one. 
 
 The usual formalities were observed on entering a foreign port, 
 and with astonishing promptness a small boat came paddling 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 out. It was newer and cleaner and gayer than Manzanillo's 
 best, and there were some bright colored materials thrown over 
 the seats, and an awning which gave it quite a holiday appear- 
 ance. One of the new arrivals was Carranza's Secretary of State 
 who had been there just a few days on his way elsewhere. 
 
 They didn't remain on board very long and we followed soon 
 after their departure, curious to see the town. First we went to 
 the American Consul's house, accompanied by a self-appointed 
 guide who walked in, nothing daunted, quite as if he were the 
 guest of honor of the party! He was gotten rid of, however, in 
 the usual way! The Consul, Mr. Edwards, and his wife were 
 very charming and hospitable. Mr. Edwards was tremendously 
 interested in hearing such outside news as Jack was able to give 
 him. As there is no railroad into Acapulco, except an unfinished 
 and abandoned one and as all their communications by tele- 
 graph are temporarily suspended, they are in almost complete 
 ignorance of what is going on. Mrs. Edwards took us up to the 
 second story of her house where we had one of the most beauti- 
 ful views of the bay that one could possibly imagine. The house, 
 upstairs and down, is built with wide porches on either side, and 
 the rooms looked delightfully cool with a welcome draught 
 blowing through, which must be a blessing, for the heat is 
 intense. They told us we had been signalled as a warship, and 
 they had not been particularly surprised, as they had more 
 than expected that a warship would shortly be on its way there. 
 Virginia tried to persuade them to come back to the Cyprus 
 and lunch with us, but they were afraid to go out into the sun 
 at that time of the day, for which one could hardly blame them. 
 Mr. Edwards had been ill and we left Dr. Allen at their house, 
 while we explored the town. We were all relieved to know that 
 he had been able to reassure Mrs. Edwards to some extent, as 
 she appeared to be so very worried and nervous about her 
 
 Friday 
 March 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 Friday 
 March iftb 
 
 husband; indeed, who wouldn 't be, living in such a God-for-saken 
 hole without a doctor within hundreds of miles? Mrs. Edwards 
 has been there for five years, and is the only American woman 
 in the town. Until quite recently, she was the only English- 
 speaking woman. There are now one or two Mexican women 
 who speak a little English. She neither looked nor seemed to be 
 in the least discontented with her lot, and when some one asked 
 her if she didn't hate being so out of the world, so away from 
 everything, she said with a really touching sincerity that she 
 didn't mind in the very least, so long as she could be with her 
 husband. Last August there had been a revolution in the very 
 streets surrounding them. Their house is marked by a number 
 of bullet holes, and when we started on our exploration of the 
 town, the Church in the Square, or rather what remains of it, is 
 proof of the amount of damage done. They are now restoring 
 it, and half a dozen men were working, almost noiselessly and 
 absolutely silently, at the paving of the floor. I heard one of the 
 workmen speak aloud, though almost in a whisper, whereupon 
 one of the others put his finger over his mouth and shook his 
 head disapprovingly. 
 
 We walked all through the streets and even up to the Fort 
 which was quite impressive looking, surrounded as it was by a 
 deep dry moat. But we were waived out most unceremoniously 
 by a glum-looking guard when we attempted to enter. The 
 town of Acapulco is really far more picturesque, looks older, 
 and would perhaps have been more interesting to wander about 
 in than Manzanillo, but it was a good deal warmer, and long 
 past luncheon time, so that there seemed to be but little desire 
 to linger. Personally I was conscious of a kind of inimical feel- 
 ing amongst the people in the streets; they seemed to me to be 
 very unfriendly: a kind of cowardly undercurrent of hidden 
 hostility, as though they had been warned but not commanded 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 by their Chief. Probably this was all imagination however. We 
 returned to the Cyprus at about three o'clock for luncheon, glad 
 to feel the coolish breeze in the harbor once again. 
 
 Quantities of small boats surrounded the Cyprus: pedlars with 
 every known kind of useless trash for sale. The crew amused 
 themselves by bargaining for a few souvenirs, and for the large 
 sum of twenty-five cents I bought a basket which is going to 
 be a great joy to me, in fact already is! My sewing, books, 
 writing materials and camera, and my tripod, all fit in to per- 
 fection, and the mania for neatness which prevails on the 
 Cyprus is thus complied with, and I am at last able to find my 
 belongings, and I love it! After the real tragedy of losing my 
 favorite pen through having had it substituted for a brand new 
 one, I speak feelingly! 
 
 Virginia, "Cappie," Mr. Aldrich and Walter braved all the 
 terrors of the deep, and had a swim, and now we are once more 
 on our way. To-night the phosphorescence in the water was 
 perfectly beautiful. Every wave that broke was tipped with 
 brilliant luminous tints: the colors of a highly polished abalone 
 shell. It lasted only for a very short time, much to our dis- 
 appointment. 
 
 EST night it was terrifically hot! Walter took time by the 
 forelock and had a cot brought up on deck which was the 
 only intelligent thing to do, and Mr. Aldrich had the good sense 
 to go up and join him. In the engine room, the thermometer was 
 145 degrees, and the men could only work in 15 minute shifts. 
 
 We passed the Cleveland in the night, on her way to Acapulco, 
 and we surmise that she is bound for that point to rescue the 
 handful of Americans, who, in case of trouble of any kind, are 
 powerless to defend themselves. I devoutly hope that such is 
 the case, as my heart aches for poor Mrs. Edwards. 
 
 Friday 
 March I'jtb 
 
 Saturday 
 March i8 tb 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Saturday 
 March 18* 
 
 No events, adventures or remarks this morning except that 
 the log was lost. Presumably it was swallowed by a fish! There 
 was a fairly brisk breeze and a little swell, the first we've had 
 since leaving San Pedro. We ran close to the coast all morning. 
 Very high mountains sloping down to the whitest sandiest 
 beaches imaginable, and in some cases whole hillsides covered 
 with white sand giving one some idea of the violence of the 
 winds at times on this coast! 
 
 After luncheon (which doesn't mean very early in the after- 
 noon) we reached Salina Cruz. From the Cyprus, as we steamed 
 in, it looked like the busiest and most prosperous of ports, as 
 there was a most impressive looking breakwater, and the entire 
 shore was lined with enormous warehouses. Great cranes and 
 derricks placed at frequent intervals suggested commercial 
 activities of a serious and important nature. However, having 
 received the Collector of the Port and the Health Officer we 
 landed to find a complete absence of both people and business. 
 One could hardly picture a more abandoned looking place, 
 though we learned later that some business was actually 
 transacted, an amount however entirely out of proportion 
 to its possibilities. 
 
 The wind was blowing so furiously that with very little per- 
 suasion we might have believed it had blown every one away! 
 We tried, but in vain, to find some shelter while waiting for a 
 special train to take us to Tehuan tepee. It took them about an 
 hour to get this in order, but I for one would have waited 
 twenty-four hours in a worse wind storm or any other kind 
 of a storm, quite cheerfully, to have seen the city of Tehuante- 
 pec. I may remark that the Special Train consisted of an engine 
 and an old box car, into which we all climbed the shorties, I 
 speak from experience, with some difficulties! We were handed 
 a bench and four chairs (for 12, people) but as it is only 12 miles, 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 while we were waiting for the train on the steps of the main 
 store, which formed a kind of railroad platform, that we finally 
 had to take refuge inside the shop, where a sleepy looking clerk 
 was selling calico by the light of one smoking lamp, but not 
 before Walter had rescued the gourds from small boys who 
 expected to earn pennies for holding them, and not until I had 
 raised my parasol threateningly at the beggars who persisted 
 in crowding up against us, and Virginia had talked to them 
 uninterruptedly in English, telling them not to touch her, and 
 that she didn't like dirty people leaning up against her and 
 what is more would not have it!! etc. etc. You can imagine how 
 much attention they paid to such remonstrances! 
 
 We got back to Salina Cruz about seven-thirty, where we 
 picked up Mr. Tooker and Mr. Ellis, the English Consul. Mr. 
 Tooker had gone in search of Mr. Ellis just before the departure 
 of the train on our way to Tehuantepec, and we had been 
 obliged to leave without them, but Mr. Ellis was persuaded to 
 return to the Cyprus to dine, accompanied by Madge, a nice 
 clean white puppy-dog, the first I Ve dared to pet since I left 
 home. Mr. Ellis was most entertaining. I wish I could jot down 
 some of his interesting experiences in Mexico and some of the 
 actual facts of existing Mexican conditions he told us of, but I 
 fear I am too inaccurate to attempt it. (How my family will 
 love that admission!) He left the boat with an armful of books 
 and papers. In every port such gifts have been received more 
 than gratefully, and Mr. Tooker had thoughtfully brought a 
 large supply. Any one who makes this trip will go down in the 
 history of these people as a real Fairy Godmother if they 
 remember to bring books and papers to distribute as they go. 
 
 NO PORTS to-day. We followed the coast line very closely 
 flat tropical lands dotted here and there with native 
 
 2 I 
 
 Saturday 
 March l8 th 
 
 Sunday 
 March 
 
22 
 
 Sunday 
 March itb 
 
 Monday 
 March 2O tb 
 
 on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 shacks built of thatched corn or sugar cane, I don't know which, 
 probably both. At four we approached the wreck of the Sisosfris, 
 a ship of some 6000 tons which ran up on the beach seven or 
 eight years ago and which they have never been able to float, 
 though we are told that many attempts have been made and 
 that one company spent something like $50,000 in a fruitless 
 effort. Jack says she is probably worth half a million dollars or 
 more, but there she is, poised majestically on the beach, broad- 
 side, defiant. The Cyprus stopped so that we might have a 
 really good look at her, and incidentally we let out a shark line 
 and some of the men fished with spinners for whatever their 
 lines might bring in. No luck however, and as we were bobbing 
 up and down a good deal more than Mary and Virginia liked, 
 we didn't delay there very long! 
 
 THIS morning every one got up at five a. m. and we started 
 off on a day which proved to be one of many adventures. 
 The port, or rather the stopping place, for there is no harbor at 
 all, was San Jose. It is just like jumping off a railroad train 
 running at 30 miles an hour, to stop at San Jose! There is a pier 
 to be sure, but it looks as though the breakers would demolish 
 it at any moment. We had some difficulty in landing on a 
 rickety broken-down stairway, but eventually we all got safely 
 on shore and "Cappie" made the brilliant remark that he 
 adored surf bathing, and had he known how nice the beach was, 
 he would have gotten up early and come on shore to get the full 
 benefit of THE BREAKERS!!!!! Considering the fact that we 
 were all up at FIVE, including his august self, we concluded he 
 must be supplied with a different set of time values to ours! 
 
 A very impressive looking private train had been provided, 
 with an observation car, the Samala, with a large platform we 
 could all sit out on, tables and wicker chairs inside, and, in fact, 
 

 
 
 
 i 
 
 San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ,-.-, 
 
 
 
 that wasn 't in the least a hardship, and I think every one looked Saturday 
 
 
 
 
 upon it as a lark. We passed a number of ox carts hauling great Marf " *& 
 
 
 
 sheaves of corn and green bananas, and twice the train stopped 
 
 
 
 
 with a terrific jerk because of a stray calf on the tracks! We 
 
 
 
 
 seemed to be making at least 40 miles an hour, and we dis- 
 
 
 
 
 covered that an old freight car attached to an engine, running 
 
 
 
 
 at that rate of speed over a Mexican-laid railway, can dance 
 
 
 
 
 about on the rails a good deal. 
 
 
 
 
 We arrived in Tehuantepec, however, without delay or acci- 
 
 
 
 dent, and a more picturesque (I Ve used that word a thousand 
 
 
 
 times, I know, but it is the only one that expresses at all what 
 
 
 
 in my ignorance I am trying to convey as an impression, and I 
 
 
 
 am going to go on using it a thousand times more!) town surely 
 
 
 
 does not exist anywhere. A troop train was just leaving the 
 
 
 
 station, filled according to the custom with women and children 
 
 
 
 as well as soldiers. Quite a procession of others trudged along 
 
 
 
 from the town to the station to see them off. Women were 
 
 
 
 balancing huge baskets on their heads, baskets filled to over- 
 
 
 
 flowing with fruits and flowers. Sometimes for a moment as 
 
 
 
 they passed, the air would be saturated with the odor of tube- 
 
 
 
 roses and other sweet smelling flowers a welcome change, I 
 
 
 
 am forced to admit! One and all they were dressed in the most 
 
 
 
 brilliant colored prints and calicoes. The men, in spite of the 
 
 
 
 heat of the day, wore a flaming red or striped blanket flung 
 
 
 
 carelessly over their shoulders. We learned afterwards that no 
 
 
 
 one but the Commanding Officer knew, or even had the re- 
 
 
 
 motest idea of, their destination. They must have expected 
 
 
 
 trouble, for three men armed to the teeth rode on the front of 
 
 
 
 the engine, and there were guards similarly armed on every 
 
 
 
 coach. 
 
 
 
 It was practically the close of day, nearly six, when we arrived 
 
 
 
 at the market place. The usual swarthy men, women and chil- 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Saturday 
 March 
 
 dren were squatting on the ground beside their wares, and there 
 was the usual tuneful humming sound of countless low voices. 
 
 We found our way to a very imposing looking church, which 
 we entered through a large court yard, to find that it had been 
 turned into a blacksmith shop, where the men were at work, in 
 their strange rather enviable leisurely way. They all work as 
 though there were plenty of time to use and enjoy each moment 
 as it passes! It was apparently a prosperous blacksmith shop, 
 for any number of horses were tied to the trees out in the court 
 yard awaiting their turn, though I fancy it is more likely that 
 they were tied there while their masters gossiped with the 
 smith; they are usually the old women of small towns. A portion 
 of the altar still remained, but the walls were hung with saddles 
 and straps and the floor strewn with cart wheels and fittings. 
 A church put to any other use is, I think, the most incongruous 
 of all things. I believe it shocks even the most unreligious 
 persons. The adjoining cloister was crumbling to pieces and 
 chickens were roosting contentedly in the patio. The entire 
 place had gone to rack and ruin! 
 
 After roaming about in the narrow streets for awhile we 
 returned to the market-place, and Mary, Virginia and Walter 
 started off in search of painted gourds. They were gone for so 
 long that we all thought they must have been jailed at least, 
 but eventually a procession came threading its way along, 
 headed by Walter, and after him innumerable children balanc- 
 ing the gourds on their heads, and the woman who sold them 
 bringing up the rear. She carried a fancy beaded purse with 
 great pride, which she obviously brought along to receive her 
 coin in, or rather her rolls and rolls of paper money. She prob- 
 ably won't do another stroke of work during the rest of her 
 lazy existence! 
 
 Such a mob of filthy urchins and beggars crowded around us 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 every comfort. The servants had brought drinks, cigars and 
 cigarettes, even lunch and dinner. All things are thought of, and 
 yet you never hear an order given. 
 
 The run from San Jose to the city of Guatemala is 75 miles 
 and every step of the way was a delight. It took us four hours 
 and twenty minutes, running all the way through marvelously 
 interesting country. The fences on either side of the tracks are 
 made of saplings which have all sprouted and most of them have 
 grown into fair-sized trees so that they form a perfect tree- 
 hedge. Barbed wire is strung along these all the way. There were 
 gigantic ceiba trees, with their close dark foliage, and many 
 others that were new to us, but the most beautiful of all was a 
 tall straight one, which seemed to be trimmed almost like a 
 glorified standard, its whole top a blazing mass of yellow flowers, 
 a great luminous mass of color towering above everything. It 
 looked not unlike the spectacular bursts of rockets that vanish 
 in mid-air and one quite expected these to do the same. They 
 are called amarillo trees. There were groves and groves of date 
 and cocoanut palms, banana trees laden with fruit, huge mango 
 trees, and field after field of sugar cane lined either side of our 
 road. The volcanic mountains Agua and Fuega loomed up in 
 the distance at a height of 12,000 feet or more, with filmy 
 white clouds resting lightly on their sides. These mountains rise 
 so precipitately from the plain below, that even from a short 
 distance, they almost seem to be a mirage. Exquisite hibiscus 
 flowers bloomed in the midst of the tangle of greens, and great 
 masses of bamboo were clustered here and there. We saw orchid 
 plants nestled in the branches of trees, and every tropical thing 
 you could think of, but strangely enough no birds. Perhaps the 
 train was responsible for that. Dotted along the track at inter- 
 vals were tiny native settlements, and outside their funny little 
 thatched huts, whole families were grouped watching the train 
 
 Monday 
 March 2O tb 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Monday 
 March 2O tb 
 
 go by, which is evidently still infrequent enough to cause 
 wonder. The women, almost without exception, carried heavily 
 laden baskets or water bottles on their heads, and were always 
 dressed in the brightest colors imaginable. Many of them were 
 washing their clothes on the banks of the streams. They were 
 especially numerous on the edge of Amatitla, a beautiful little 
 lake about six miles long, half way between San Jose and Guate- 
 mala. From here on, we passed many ruins: houses, churches 
 and innumerable adobe brick walls, but so old that no one 
 knows their origin. The whole town was presumably destroyed 
 by earthquakes which are very prevalent in this country. Out 
 of the tops of columns and walls, shrubs and trees of consider- 
 able size were flourishing. The land in this section is all culti- 
 vated; not an available square foot is left untilled. We were 
 told on good authority that the choicest land is worth only five 
 dollars an acre, though in the city of Guatemala, real estate is 
 very high. 
 
 As we neared the city we saw one or two very large trees that 
 were a solid mass of pink flowers. They looked like huge fruit 
 trees in blossom, except that the flowers were so much larger 
 than any fruit blossom I have ever seen. These were called 
 roble trees. There was a wonderful blue flowering tree too, but 
 after many and varied efforts, I was unable to learn the name 
 of it. 
 
 We were met at the station by automobiles and went first to 
 the hotel where we had luncheon, a great many courses we 
 could hardly do justice to, having had delicious sandwiches 
 from the Cyprus shortly before! But most of us ate I speak 
 for myself when I say "greedily" of the alligator pears which 
 were the very best I have ever tasted. Mr. Laroque joined us at 
 luncheon, having known Jack when the latter was in Guatemala 
 two years ago. He was rather diffident to say the least, for after 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 having been presented to ten people always a rather trying 
 ordeal to a shy person he blurted out: "Mrs. Jackling, what 
 did you do with all those beautiful embroideries you bought 
 the last time you were here?" whereupon every one at the table 
 burst into shrieks of hysterical laughter, and the poor man 
 nearly died of embarrassment. Jack laughed with the rest, 
 although there was no further conversation on that subject, but 
 I am afraid he will never hear the end of it! 
 
 After luncheon we got into motors again and went all over the 
 city. I may say we didn't leave a stone unturned. First we 
 visited the market which is the largest one I've seen; unlike 
 the Mexican markets which are just roofed over or else held in 
 the public square, this one occupies a whole building. In fact, 
 big as it is, it even extends out into the streets back of the 
 Cathedral. Such messes as they were cooking and such drinks 
 as they were brewing! The food was almost a nauseating sight. 
 We then drove down an avenue of those glorious blue trees to 
 the Temple of Minerva, one of the many buildings erected by 
 President Manuel Estrada Cabrera, and dedicated to the school 
 children of Guatemala. I believe it is just used for public festi- 
 vals and dancing, and once a year all the school children gather 
 there and march down the steps, mainly I imagine for the 
 purpose of hearing what a great man is the noble Manuel 
 Estrada Cabrera! It is surrounded by a race track with rickety 
 old grandstands entirely out of keeping with the temple. At one 
 side is a relief map of the Republic of Guatemala. It is planned 
 with a miniature Pacific Ocean, and gives you a perfectly com- 
 prehensive idea of the situation of every mountain peak, lake 
 and valley. We also went out into a kind of public park or 
 picnic ground as they called it, where you can get an excellent 
 view of the deep barranca which practically surrounds the entire 
 city. It looks like a gigantic moat, and it seems that the reason 
 
 Monday 
 March 2O tb 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Monday 
 March 2O th 
 
 the city was built in its present location, after having been twice 
 demolished, was because the baranca is supposed to make the 
 site as nearly earthquake proof as possible. 
 
 There are countless churches, big and little, perched up on 
 the heights and tucked away in side streets. Churches abso- 
 lutely everywhere, and underground passage ways connecting 
 every one! The area is immense, indeed so very immense that 
 this last fact seems incredible, but I am assured of the absolute 
 truth of the statement. Mr. Laroque took us to his office, into 
 which he has only just moved. The building was formerly a 
 convent and is immediately adjoining a church. He unlocked a 
 little half door in a far room at the back and showed us the 
 descent down a flight of steep stone steps about two and a half 
 feet wide, into one of these passages. He has not yet explored it 
 though it is a mystery to me how any one could let a day go by 
 without doing so! 
 
 The Cathedral is very large and its exterior is rather imposing. 
 There are some beautiful carvings in it, though nothing very 
 old or interesting that I could discover. Mary and Walter and I 
 had the curiosity to creep through a door leading from the vest- 
 ment room out onto a balcony, where we saw a little court 
 yard. There was a grilled window half covered by a vine, which 
 I hope may be seen in the picture I took surreptitiously. It was 
 a story-booky little corner. 
 
 Cabrera's palaces, which occupy several square blocks and 
 which are also connected by a network of underground pas- 
 sages, are so closely guarded that no one is allowed to motor or 
 drive past them. There is a guard at every corner. We walked 
 up through the streets and saw a funereal-looking procession of 
 men in frock coats and silk hats, coming out of the doorway, 
 evidently from some ceremonious audience with his majesty! 
 Almost immediately afterward a very dressy young woman 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 came out of the same doorway, who didn't seem to show the 
 least fear in treading on such dangerous ground! She appeared 
 to know her way about perfectly; even the guards didn't look 
 at her askance. It was obvious she was a familiar figure on that 
 closely guarded block! 
 
 We went through one of the coffee refineries if that is what 
 you call them and it was most interesting from every point of 
 view. They shell and sort out the different-sized beans, all done, 
 of course, by machinery. In a large light cool room adjoining 
 the one where the machinery is installed, about thirty girls 
 were employed in going over the sacks, to remove any bean 
 of inferior quality that might have found its way into the 
 wrong lot. I never saw factory girls who looked happier in their 
 work or more contented, and they seemed to be working very 
 industriously. 
 
 We came back to the hotel later where Jack had arranged to 
 have a Marimba band play for us. We asked them to play the 
 Guatemala National Air but much to our surprise they said it 
 was forbidden by the Government. It seems that the military 
 bands only are allowed this privilege. I gathered that the reason 
 was that they did not want the air belittled and made a cuckoo- 
 song of, and that by restricting the playing of it a greater 
 respect was inspired in the people when they did hear it. There 
 was only a very little dancing. Rubber-soled shoes on carpet 
 and a very warm day didn't make for much enthusiasm in that 
 direction. But the music was perfectly splendid, and we all 
 adored it. We recognized some of the musicians that had been 
 at the Exposition in San Francisco, curiously enough. 
 
 Just before going to the train we motored to a Church on a 
 hill-top from which we had the most marvelous view of the 
 entire city, just at sunset. The Church itself seemed to be very 
 old. There is a round tower leaning a little just in front of it, 
 
 Monday 
 March 2O tb 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 Monday 
 March 2O th 
 
 and two little kinds of sheltered roofed walls at either side that 
 give one the impression of its having been used as a fortress. 
 
 At seven we got back to the Samala again, and were once 
 more on our way. It was necessary to get special permission 
 from the Government to run a train at night. Apparently that 
 is something that is never done! There was a wonderful moon 
 and it was delightfully cool winding down the mountain. For 
 miles the track is just a succession of loops, and as we threaded 
 our way down very slowly and cautiously we could see paths of 
 fire scattered down the hillsides and over the plain where they 
 were burning the sugar-cane. It was an eery-like picture with 
 the moon peeping out at intervals from behind the hills as we 
 played hide-and-go-seek with her! At Escuintla we were met by 
 another Marimba band! It was half past ten at night, but there 
 they all were, as ordered, perfectly serious, though there was 
 something decidedly humorous about standing at that hour of 
 the night at a railway station in that strange far-away country, 
 listening to this weird music! We loved every note of it how- 
 ever, and we would have all liked to bundle up the whole 
 troupe, instruments and all, and take them on board the 
 Cyprus! Such time, such rhythm you never heard. 
 
 When we arrived at the pier again it was as dark as a dark 
 night can be, and we vaguely wondered how we were ever 
 to get from the rickety stair-way back to the launch, having 
 only just "made it," so to speak, in the garish light of day with 
 a comparatively smooth sea, whereas now the waves were high 
 and furious! It was after twelve o'clock, and we were all rather 
 tired, having been up at five in the morning, spent five hours 
 on the train going to Guatemala City, then a busy sight-seeing 
 day and six hours on the train returning to San Jose. Not that 
 I wish to give the impression that the trip wasn't worth ten 
 times as much effort and exertion, for every moment of it was 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 a delight, but just by way of intimating that we had been very 
 wide awake for nineteen hours and weren't necessarily looking 
 for hair-raising adventures! Not just at that particular moment 
 at any rate! But we had one! After a number of fruitless efforts 
 it was found impossible to bring the Cyprus launch up to the 
 rickety steps. We couldn't possibly remain in San Jose all night; 
 it isn't that kind of a place! There was only one thing to do and 
 we did it, and we're all here to tell the tale! 
 
 They brought a huge barge, or lighter rather, up beside the 
 pier, and the first move consisted in lowering a kind of freight 
 flat car into it so that we could climb from that into the launch 
 in case we got there! Next a cage was gripped by the derrick, 
 and into it stepped the rather frightened party three at a 
 time. The drop was one of about 60 feet, and it looked scary I 
 must admit. Just blackness and a growling angry sea beneath. 
 Mr. and Mrs. Aldrich made the first descent, and then Mr. 
 Aldrich proceeded to "boost" every one over the side of the 
 barge into the launch, which was no easy matter! Virginia, 
 Jack and I came next, and when we were in mid-air a great 
 swell came along, which I am convinced was really a moderate- 
 sized tidal wave, and swept the barge from underneath us. In 
 all the confusion and blackness of the night I thought we'd 
 probably go right on being lowered into the raging main, espe- 
 cially as the man who was running this little roulette game was 
 tucked away in a far corner where he couldn't possibly see what 
 he was doing and had to rely on a man who stood by and 
 whistled now and then when the cage or barge, as the case 
 might be, was found to be in an unforeseen position! The tidal 
 wave returned to its happy home however and fortunately 
 brought the barge with it, and so every one got safely down. 
 Poor Mr. Aldrich really had the worst of it as, willy-nilly, every 
 woman was transferred to the launch by force. 
 
 Monday 
 March 2O th 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 Monday 
 March 2O tb 
 
 Tuesday 
 March 21" 
 
 Like the child who believes that the merry-go-round turns for 
 his pleasure alone, and turns for nothing, do not plan a trip to 
 Guatemala because it sounds like a delightful place to visit, with- 
 out glancing at the following list, which I procured with some 
 difficulty, and which is an exact account of our day's expenses 
 in Guatemala City. It is a kind of curiosity worth recording! 
 
 One day's expenses on trip from San Jose to Guatemala City: 
 
 Special Train 117,630.00 
 
 Lunch at Guatemala City 600.00 
 
 Lunch tip 80.00 
 
 Marimba Band at Guatemala and Escuintla 800.00 
 
 Tea Guatemala City 672.00 
 
 Personal Effects Stolen 820.00 
 
 Automobiles 2,419.00 
 
 Post Cards 108.00 
 
 Postage 102.00 
 
 Port Charges for the Yacht 2,000.00 
 
 Cables i,332-oo 
 
 Tips i ,000.00 
 
 Alligator Pears 80.00 
 
 Total in Guatemala Currency $27,643.00 
 
 NOTE: 
 
 Claret quoted on menu at $150.00 per bottle 
 
 Rhine wine 75- P er bottle 
 
 Cigarettes 20.00 per box 
 
 THIS morning early we arrived in Acajutla, Salvador. The 
 Doctor of the Port came on board and insisted on seeing 
 each of us, so he went from door to door all over the ship. Jack 
 had telegraphed ten days before to have a train meet us to take 
 us to San Salvador, but they hadn't yet received the message 
 and all the available trains were busy hauling coffee. If we 
 would wait a week or ten days, however, they would be glad to 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 make some arrangements! It was terrifically hot, and as we 
 couldn't see anything but Acajutla, the "ladies" decided to 
 remain on the Cyprus. Jack, Walter and "Cappie" however 
 saw an opportunity for adventure, and off they went. A 60- 
 foot ladder to the pier held no terrors for them, and from 
 " Cappie V beatific all-day smile, we gathered any hardship 
 would have been worth the price of admission ! They explored 
 an old ruin and went through a native village, and saw some 
 girls in bathing about which we heard a very great deal. That 
 is all they told us of their adventures, but we surmised a good 
 deal more. Walter tried to buy a parrot, and after some diffi- 
 culties with the Spanish language succeeded in bargaining with 
 a woman who held one on her shoulder. After the transaction 
 was safely and satisfactorily concluded it suddenly occurred to 
 him that he must have a cage. He explained to the woman that 
 he wanted "ropas." She laughed good-naturedly and said she 
 didn't have any; that the parrots in Acajutla never had any 
 "ropas." Walter grew quite indignant and finally told her that 
 she could take back her bird and return his money, which she 
 did, strange as it may seem. Later, when he came back to the 
 boat, in a spirit of untold humility, Walter secretly got out his 
 Spanish dictionary and looked up "ropa" to find much to his 
 amazement and amusement that it not only did not mean cage 
 but that it did mean "clothes"!!! 
 
 Our lives were saved after much manoeuvering, by succeeding 
 in getting 1000 pounds of ice, over which there had been a great 
 deal of wagering, and as soon as this was safely on board we 
 sailed; we kept close to the coast all afternoon, and as it grew 
 dark, we passed the two volcanoes, Salvador and Izalco, both 
 in eruption: a mass of smoke and flame. It was very spectacular. 
 La Libertad was a picturesque-looking little town, but we didn 't 
 stop there. Another wonderful evening, but the moon is wan- 
 
 Tuesday 
 March 21** 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 3 2 
 
 Tuesday 
 March 21" 
 
 Wednesday 
 March 22d 
 
 ing; still the stars are just doubly bright. We all sat on deck 
 and listened to the Victor which had been brought up, and it 
 was perfectly heavenly! 
 
 THIS morning we came into the little port of La Union. 
 It is just the border line between Salvador and Honduras. 
 The Health officials were very particular here also, and insisted 
 upon having the names of every passenger and of every member 
 of the crew. However, it is one of the regulations one willingly 
 complies with. There is so much sickness in Central America 
 one is relieved to see that at least some effort is made toward 
 protecting the people. Mr. Westin, Mr. Butter's mining rep- 
 resentative in La Union, assured us that the town was the 
 healthiest in all the Central American countries; that there was 
 absolutely no illness. This is due in a large measure to the purity 
 of their water supply. It is brought down into the town direct 
 from a tunnel in one side of the volcanic mountains some 
 distance away. 
 
 We were obliged to climb a 2o-foot ladder to the pier this morn- 
 ing, and all was well until Walter, standing in the launch below 
 awaiting his turn, conceived the iniquitous idea of taking a 
 snap-shot of Mrs. Aldrich just as she was reaching the top 
 and safety! If she knew as much as some of the rest of us about 
 his photographic chef d'oeuvres, she wouldn't let it worry her 
 much! 
 
 We got into a primitive little train and went over to the town 
 of La Union, where we began by doing a little shopping for the 
 benefit of Dr. Allen who can't bear to see a shop without going 
 into it. We bought some hats and some post cards, and Virginia 
 had a disastrous adventure with my fountain pen, "which never 
 leaks"! Then we made our usual pilgrimage. The Church was 
 a poverty-stricken place. The walls were of brick but the roof 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 of wood, as the original structure had been half demolished in 
 an earthquake. Just outside was a great beam, on which hung 
 three enormous bells. One of these had a crack in it at least half 
 an inch wide. I fancy they had been rescued from the belfry 
 after the tower fell. A few crooked posts held a roof over them. 
 
 The town of La Union differs but little from most of those we 
 have seen; narrow, ill-paved streets, a public square, flowerless 
 and shrubless, just a few moth-eaten trees, pan ting so to speak for 
 water; everything completely dried up at this season of the year, 
 and very much uncared for. About the market-place were the 
 same swarthy-faced men, women and children sitting aimlessly 
 about in lethargic idleness. The hotel was a clean and fairly 
 cool-looking place where we had some beer and a little airing of 
 laborious Spanish conversation. The court was very tropical 
 looking, with its banana trees and flowering shrubs growing in 
 profusion. I was amazed to count seven sewing machines in that 
 little town. Both men and women were sewing busily on them. 
 I think what struck me so particularly was not so much the 
 existence of the machines, as the fact of any one being occupied 
 in this lazy country! 
 
 We came back to the Cyprus for luncheon, and afterward Mr. 
 Westin suggested that we should go up some of the rivers after 
 snipe. He took his little launch and a few of the men went with 
 him, the rest of us following in the Cyprus launch. The bay is 
 fairly large, but we soon got up to the mouth of the rivers, 
 where the birds were very plentiful. These so-called rivers are 
 really navigable sloughs, but they are familiarly spoken of as 
 the rivers. We went up the Rio Guascoran, which is the boundary 
 between Salvador and Honduras, and after running around 
 innumerable little islands came back just at sunset by the Rio 
 Serama. The trip is one that should never be missed, for it is 
 very beautiful and full of interesting animal life. We thought 
 
 Wednesday 
 March 22d 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 34 
 
 Wednesday 
 March 22*d 
 
 Thursday 
 March 2jrd 
 
 we saw an alligator swimming along just at the mouth of the 
 Rio Guascoran. Further up, "Cappie" and Virginia who im- 
 pressed me so with her accuracy in shooting that I am speech- 
 less to describe it got a dozen snipe and plover, and two 
 iguanas, the smaller of which, one of the muchacbos rescued 
 from a tree, as we wanted to take home some spoil! They 
 also shot an enormous hawk and two beautiful white ibises. I 
 have a haunting suspicion that those ibises should not have been 
 shot. As far as Virginia is concerned I believe she could hit the 
 ghost of a rose petal ten miles away. I never saw any one like 
 her. It is extraordinary. 
 
 The undergrowth on the banks was so close and thick that it 
 would have been impossible to take one solitary step in any 
 direction. The branches of the trees grow close to the roots, and 
 then dart out in semi-circular fashion and bury themselves in 
 the ground. Above these the trunk is quite smooth with no 
 branches at all until more than half way to the top, where there 
 is a profusion of feathery green foliage which is very beautiful. 
 Our entire afternoon was as successful as any one could wish 
 for: a perfect day, plenty of game and wonderful woods. 
 
 STILL smooth seas and divine weather. To-day we saw quan- 
 tities of turtles which the men shot at, midst shouts of 
 excitement. They were enormous ungainly things and yet for 
 some reason not especially easy marks. I know less than noth- 
 ing about shooting; was it the uneven ripple of the water that 
 made sighting them difficult? That is probably the most absurd 
 of all reasons ! 
 
 Last night in the bay of La Union the phosphorescence was 
 wonderful. We were anchored and so couldn't get the full bene- 
 fit of it, but Walter tied a rope to one of the painted "Joseph" 
 buckets, and so created a superb display of "water fire-works" 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 by dangling it over the deck-rail! We also espied an enormous 
 whale quite close to the yacht, in fact a number of whales. The 
 most important event of the day by all odds was when, in a 
 moment of mental aberration, "Cappie" and Jack AGREED that 
 Edison was a "scientific parasite," a much over-rated and over- 
 advertised person! Undoubtedly if one or the other of them had 
 not temporarily lost his presence of mind, they would still be 
 arguing about it. 
 
 I had my first glimpse of the Southern Cross to-night, which 
 gave me what would seem to be an exaggerated pleasure if I 
 attempted to describe it! But nothing can take that pleasure 
 away, and it is a real one. Just after dinner we passed the El 
 Paraiso, silently, as ships actually do pass in the night. 
 
 The doctor was awakened to-day at intervals of two or three 
 hours to give first aid to the vaccinated. It seemed unkind to 
 interrupt such a deep sleep, right in the middle of the day too, 
 but a person gets so cramped sleeping all the time without even 
 moving, that perhaps it wasn't so cruel after all! 
 
 THIS morning early we arrived at Puntarenas in Costa 
 Rica, by far the prettiest little port we've seen as yet. It 
 had a prosperous, enterprising appearance and looked far more 
 like a hospitable dwelling spot than most of the coast towns. 
 There is a long esplanade with stone benches at regular inter- 
 vals for almost as far as the eye can reach, and huge gnarled 
 shade trees on either side. Much to our surprise, the train was 
 waiting for us, and left without delay; something we have grown 
 entirely unaccustomed to! It is a four hour run to San Jose, and 
 a more beautiful stretch of country it is impossible to conceive 
 of. The railroad was begun twenty years ago and has only been 
 completed a little over two years. Up to seven or eight years 
 ago the journey was made in ox carts, and took fifteen days 
 
 Thursday 
 March 2jrd 
 
 Friday 
 March 
 

 
 
 36 g 
 
 
 Friday at 
 
 
 March 24 th f el 
 
 be 
 H< 
 
 ini 
 ro 
 sc 
 
 !, 
 
 
 1U] 
 th 
 
 ri\ 
 wi 
 ou 
 B 
 to 
 lit 
 
 
 ye 
 a < 
 ca 
 
 
 th 
 
 st< 
 c 
 
 su 
 wt 
 ar< 
 
 CO 
 
 \ 
 H( 
 we 
 lea 
 ab 
 m( 
 
 
 
 on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 at the least. Here, just as on the way to Guatemala City, the 
 fences are made of Gocote trees, a kind of plum tree that is used 
 because of its hardiness; it will grow anywhere apparently. 
 Here also barbed wire is used, and sometimes the trees are 
 interspersed with high cactus plants. The amarillo, ceiba and 
 roble trees are very plentiful, and give a wonderful color 
 scheme in the midst of a hundred or more different shades of 
 luxuriant green. The train skirts the coast for some miles and 
 then winds along the mountains most of the way beside the 
 river, crossing over a steel bridge three hundred feet high and 
 with a span of over seven hundred feet. As we neared San Jose, 
 our way led through acres and acres of coffee plantations. 
 Banana and mango trees are planted all through these areas 
 to shade the coffee plants, and they vary the monotony of the 
 little straight rows of shrubs in a most delightful way. 
 
 The plants are cut down to the roots every fourteen or fifteen 
 years, and then allowed to grow again. Some rice is grown and 
 a small quantity of tobacco. In the distance our attention was 
 called to two active volcanoes, but their craters were buried in 
 the clouds, and we were unable to see the smoke that is con- 
 stantly pouring out. 
 
 San Jose is 3700 feet above the sea level, beautifully situated, 
 surrounded as it is by high mountains. The residence section 
 where the President's house and those of the various consuls 
 are, is quite hilly; they have a charming view of the whole 
 country-side. 
 
 We went at once some of us in Fords of course! to the little 
 Hotel San Jose, where we had a delicious luncheon, and where 
 we found the entire personnel French or French-speaking at 
 least, from Madame la Proprietaire, down to the nervous excit- 
 able Jamaican negro who waited on us. No one could wish for a 
 more comfortable, clean, and thoroughly hospitable little hotel. 
 

 
 
 
 San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 
 
 
 ,~, r 
 
 37 
 
 
 
 
 It is built of course with the usual patio, and the dining room 
 
 Friday 
 
 
 
 
 opens on to this with long French windows, a few feet apart. 
 
 March 24^ 
 
 
 
 
 The little tables were all covered with spotless linen, and in the 
 
 
 
 
 
 centre of each was a vase of flowers, most of them containing 
 
 
 
 
 lovely mauve orchids. 
 
 
 
 
 
 After luncheon I was standing in the doorway waiting for the 
 
 
 
 
 
 others when a woman dressed all in black, with a black shawl 
 
 
 
 
 
 wrapped around her head, passed me. I involuntarily exclaimed, 
 
 
 
 
 
 and I am ashamed to say even pointed, at a cluster of exquisite 
 
 
 
 
 
 orchids she held in her hand. She turned and gave half of them 
 
 
 
 
 to Mrs. Tooker and half of them to me in the most gracious way 
 
 
 
 
 imaginable. Dr. Allen offered her some money, but she refused 
 
 
 
 
 it in the same courteous way. Mr. Cox, the British Consul, told 
 
 
 
 
 us that every variety of orchid was to be found in the surround- 
 
 
 
 
 
 ing woods, in the greatest profusion. The Church was not par- 
 
 
 
 
 
 ticularly interesting only it looked pleasantly prosperous and 
 
 
 
 
 
 well cared for, with a nice green garden on either side, and the 
 
 
 
 
 large public square in front of it, where the trees and plants 
 
 
 
 
 were watered, unlike most of those we've seen heretofore. Our 
 
 
 
 
 next point of interest was the National Theatre. The exterior 
 
 
 
 
 is dignified and well proportioned, but the interior is rather too 
 
 
 
 
 gaudy to be impressive. I would even go so far as to say that it 
 
 
 
 
 
 just misses being actually tawdry. There is almost an unbeliev- 
 
 
 
 
 
 able amount of carved and inlaid stone, and a great deal of 
 
 
 
 
 gilded carved wood and frescoing on every available wall and 
 
 
 
 
 
 ceiling space. Too much. It is decidedly oppressive; perhaps 
 
 
 
 
 
 because the theatre is comparatively small. Twice a year balls 
 
 
 
 
 
 are given here, and occasionally theatrical companies come and 
 
 
 
 
 
 take possession, but I imagine from what our guide said, that 
 
 
 
 
 most of the time it is dressed as we saw it, in its neatly fitted 
 
 
 
 
 little white linen covers, and shown with pride to the tourists. 
 
 
 
 
 
 There are four or five other theatres but these are all given over 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Friday 
 March 24 th 
 
 to Moving Pictures, which here as everywhere in Central 
 America are very popular. 
 
 Next we visited the Museum, which has a splendid collection 
 of birds and wild animals and especially butterflies for which 
 Costa Rica is famous. There are cases and cases of Indian arrow- 
 heads and immense quantities of stone images and decorated 
 pottery that have been unearthed in the surrounding country. 
 There are also some thoroughly incongruous things, such as an 
 entire set of Japanese armor, a mastodon 's tooth, etc., etc. Out 
 in what might be very correctly called "the back-yard," is a 
 meagre collection of live wild animals including a remarkably 
 fine jaguar, several monkeys and owls and a few domestic rab- 
 bits! One feels it to be an insult to his dignity to cage that 
 wonderful jaguar up in such a scrubby sort of place. A few 
 chipmunks and tame bunnies are about all his penetrating eyes 
 have range of. 
 
 We tried to buy some tortoise shell but could not find any. 
 In every shop they said it was to be had only in Puntarenas. 
 We drove up to the Penitentiary, and then to another coffee 
 refinery as some of the party had not been through the one at 
 Guatemala City. The girls were all out in the court yard. It was 
 about 2:30, but it appeared to be their lunch hour nevertheless. 
 "Cappie," who had lingered behind the others with an officious 
 little one-eyed guide he had acquired, was met by the Manager 
 who flew into a rage because he thought we had all gone into 
 the Factory without permission. He slammed a few doors and 
 finally disappeared muttering maledictions on our heads. Eventu- 
 ally the others came out and we all again climbed into motors 
 and thought to move gaily on our way, but the bad-tempered 
 old Manager had deliberately locked the gates and retired to 
 his lodge! After a few minutes the railway official who had been 
 sent down to Puntarenas to meet us and to do what he could 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 for us, went up and pacified the old man in some way or other 
 and he reluctantly allowed the gates to be opened. We were all 
 very much amused! 
 
 Many of the residences were quite pretty, not architectural 
 dreams of perfection, but gay colored and cheerful little dwell- 
 ings with orchid plants growing in the tops of the walls around the 
 gardens and in hanging baskets on the verandas. Later we went 
 back to the hotel where we succeeded in getting a French news- 
 paper, published in New York on the I9th, and a later Spanish 
 one out of which we were unable to glean very much informa- 
 tion! It was the first war news or, for that matter, news of any 
 kind that we had received since leaving San Pedro on the I2th. 
 
 We started back at four o'clock and were accompanied by Mr. 
 Cox, the British Consul, whom we deluged with questions 
 questions about every conceivable thing Costa Rican. Just 
 beyond San Jose he directed the Engineer of our train to stop 
 so that we might see a tree that grew on the side of the ravine 
 a marvelous mass of bright blue flowers, called the Patrea 
 Spectaculum. He also told us that the amarillo tree was known 
 as the "cuero venado, " because its bark was said to resemble 
 venison hide. 
 
 At one of the stations we bought maranons, a kind of yellowish 
 red juicy fruit that tastes exactly like a sweet pepper. The caju 
 nut, which seems to be the seed of the fruit, is grayish green in 
 color and grows out of the top of it like a small curved handle! 
 We got back to the Cyprus about eight o'clock and immedi- 
 ately continued on our journey. While we were on shore the 
 crew had an exciting adventure with a shark. They caught him 
 with a line, and as they dragged him in they shot twice at him 
 and thereby severed the chain, dropping him into the sea and 
 safety! We have to believe them, though it is rather big for a 
 fish-story! 
 
 Friday 
 March 24 th 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 40 
 
 Saturday 
 March 2 th 
 
 THIS has been the warmest day we have had which is 
 saying a very great deal ! A shower awakened every one at 
 6:30 and most of the day the sky has been overcast and heavy 
 with rain clouds. We passed Ladrones Island about 10:30 and 
 then Montuosa, which looked like a thoroughly delightful little 
 wooded spot, with its great grove of cocoanut palms on the 
 beach, and a lot of small crafts, probably pearl fishers, just off it. 
 Soon after, we sighted Coiba Island which for some unknown rea- 
 son has had a fanciful kind of fascination for me, ever since I first 
 heard of it, a day or two ago. The next excitement was caused 
 by passing the Denver on her way up the coast. You may think 
 I am exaggerating when I speak of "excitements" such as the 
 last, but I assure you such is not the case; when you are on ship- 
 board the passing of a ship is exciting, tremendously so. 
 
 And here I may remark, that from Puntarenas we made a 
 record run of 330 statute miles in 18 hours! 
 
 Just at sunset we reached Coiba Island, which we've been 
 looking forward to as the goal of all things, probably because 
 there were grave doubts as to whether we should be able to 
 land there or not. The Cyprus had to anchor about five miles 
 out, but we got into the launch so that we could run up close 
 to the shore and at least have a glimpse of the island. Jack 
 thought it was too late to land, but as we got nearer and saw 
 the wonderful grove of cocoanut palms it looked absolutely 
 irresistible, so we jumped into the rowboat that had been towed 
 along and finally ended by wading up the beach! A rather surly 
 looking old man came down and met us. Walter went up to him 
 and in his most exemplary Castillian Spanish wished him the 
 compliments of the season, a long and prosperous life, and told 
 him that all our possessions were at his disposal. The old man 
 shook his head dejectedly and replied in Spanish, "I don't 
 speak English!" 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 There were twenty or thirty native women and children and 
 three tiny thatched huts into which they were huddled. They 
 stood looking at us with a mixture of curiosity and surprise. A 
 few pigs and dogs nosed around the beach looking about as half 
 starved as the other poor wretched inhabitants. Eventually we 
 discovered that the old man spoke French and were able to get 
 a little very reluctantly given information. His father had 
 planted the cocoanut trees about thirty years ago, and now he 
 had fallen heir to them and came from Panama every year to 
 gather the crop, bringing the handful of natives with him. 
 When he returns he leaves two or three men on the island to see 
 that no one comes and usurps his rights. He seemed to be a 
 brutal sort of person, stolid, and with an unmistakably mean 
 eye. Jack had stopped there two years ago and had given him 
 a lot of coffee and sugar, and very kindly asked him if he were 
 in need of anything now. He had previously told us that he 
 expected a boat from Panama to stop for him in a few days' time 
 and that he had enough provisions, but no tobacco. Walter gave 
 him all the cigarettes he had in his pocket and Jack told him 
 that if he would let us tow his boat out to the yacht and send 
 some one in it to row back, he would give him a supply. In a 
 surly commanding tone he ordered a boy who was standing by 
 to get the boat. He was a frail-looking youth who had been ill 
 with fever for days and we all protested that the child couldn't 
 go so far, but the old man growled out that the boy's brother 
 would go with him and help him out. The brother was about 
 six years old, and the two children got obediently into a tiny 
 dug-out with one paddle and started toward the launch. Mean- 
 while it had grown very dark as it does in this country where 
 there is no twilight at all, and as the Cyprus was anchored at 
 least five miles away, we couldn't bear to see those two pathetic 
 little children starting off on a pitch black night, just to get 
 
 Saturday 
 March 25 th 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 Saturday 
 March 2^ tb 
 
 Sunday 
 March 26 tb 
 
 tobacco for the old slave driver, so we sent them back and called 
 in to him that we refused to take them. The older one was given 
 five dollars and some silver, and he asked plaintively if it were 
 really for him? Heaven alone knows where he was able to hide 
 it as his cotton shirt and trousers had no pockets and that old 
 tyrant would certainly get it away from him if he knew the 
 boy had it. One of the crew who had some tobacco handed it to 
 him for his master, so perhaps the latter may have been paci- 
 fied, and didn't beat the boy, but I rather suspect that the old 
 man thought the boy refused to go, and that he was punished 
 accordingly. Let us hope not. If he had wanted food or medicine 
 it would have been so different! 
 
 I'm sorry to say we saw no monkeys, parrots or macaws 
 though they abound on the island, but it was too late and too 
 dark to go back into the woods; such wonderful tropical woods 
 too! Thick with ferns and trees and flowering shrubs ! The palms 
 were growing all along the white sandy beach right down to the 
 water's edge. It was late when we got back to the Cyprus, and 
 poor Captain Lewis thought we had run on the reef or been 
 eaten alive by natives or man-eating sharks! He had been hunt- 
 ing everywhere for us with his searchlight and was just about 
 to send small boats after us when we appeared, delighted with 
 ourselves and our adventures, thrilled and satisfied with having 
 set foot on Coiba Island. I adored it. "I could live for it and 
 die for it and dash my brains against the wall for it!" Never 
 mind, there are those who understand that kind of language! 
 
 EVERY one spent the morning packing and dressing to 
 land in Panama. We anchored at n 130 and could hardly 
 wait for the usual port formalities to be over and done with, as 
 none of us except Jack and Mr. Tooker had ever been here 
 before. It seemed forever before the little launch appeared but 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 eventually the Health Officer came on board. Meantime it was 
 decided to have luncheon on the Cyprus as it would be fairly 
 late before we got up to the Hotel. Dr. Allen happened to be 
 awake just then, so he went to greet the Health Officer and 
 returned very shortly afterward to tell us that we were quaran- 
 tined for four livelong days. We had heard vaguely at Punt- 
 arenas that there was some such possibility, but no one gave it 
 a second thought for some reason or other, and even when it was 
 confirmed and the doctor crossed his heart to die that it was 
 true, we all still hoped for the best and secretly believed there 
 would appear a loop-hole somewhere. The very objectionable 
 pompous, officious, smug little Health Officer checked us all off 
 and had no word to say further than to reiterate that it would 
 be impossible for any one to leave the boat until Wednesday 
 night at 8:00 o'clock. 
 
 The "Baby" (Virginia knows whom I mean!) was announced 
 just then and created a slight diversion for a few minutes, but 
 we were one and all too disappointed and too annoyed for any 
 diversion to appease us even momentarily. Undoubtedly it is 
 very gratifying to know that such adequate precautions are 
 taken and all that kind of thing, but it is very exasperating 
 when it is sprung upon you as a complete surprise! Later 
 General Edwards came over on a launch, accompanied by the 
 "Baby," and they talked over the situation with Jack but told 
 him that no amount of pull would do any good; that he had 
 tried methods fair and foul, all to no purpose. The natural 
 result of all this was for some one to remark every few minutes, 
 which needless to say they did, "It is just this which has made 
 Panama possible," just as if every one didn't know and fully 
 realize that fact, and just as if it helped the situation any! 
 Alas, we are so peevish ! A more depressed set of people I Ve 
 never seen! No one seems to remember that there is a silver 
 
 Sunday 
 March 26 th 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 44 
 
 Sunday 
 March 26 th 
 
 Monday 
 March 2t*> 
 
 lining to every cloud, and that we have four extra days of 
 "Cappie's" charming company, who is tired of the party and 
 is going to leave us at Panama the traitor! 
 
 We consoled ourselves by playing Bridge this afternoon and 
 saying what we thought of the Health Officer in terms none too 
 guarded, so after unpacking our belongings we are just calmly 
 resigned to our fate. And now after all that exaggerated talk of 
 how dissatisfied we are with our lot and each other, which is all 
 a lie, I 'd like to add that the only reason we mind being quar- 
 antined is that we may have to give up some of the ports in the 
 West Indies, and that we all get on so well that we'd just as 
 soon be quarantined for a month. We are as comfortable as we 
 will ever be in our lives, we can amuse ourselves in a hundred 
 different ways, and if I thought four days' quarantine would 
 prolong our journey four extra days, I should be waving a flag 
 and shouting "Hallelujah!" 
 
 To-night the lights in the sky were too wonderful! Like the 
 vari-colored rays from a giant rainbow searchlight on the hori- 
 zon! There must be a word that expresses exactly what I mean, 
 or a group of them, but alas, I don't know it. If any one does, I 
 wish he would tell me. It's maddening! 
 
 "Cappie" was cruel to me at dinner to-night and we had a 
 vacation from arguments for a change. He said the one thing 
 that no woman can bear to hear! I don't need to say what it is, 
 for every woman will know what I mean, and some unsuspect- 
 ing man would then have a deadly weapon in his hands if so 
 far he has lived in ignorance of the taunt! 
 
 OUR first visitor, when Virginia and I were breakfasting 
 with Mary in her room this morning, was the Health 
 Officer. If any of us looked one per cent as measly and sickly 
 and puny as be does, I shouldn't blame them for not wanting us 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 on shore, now or at any other time! When he saw our costumes 
 it is inexcusably warm, and so it isn't our fault if we are garbed 
 accordingly at that hour in the morning he retired in great 
 confusion ! After weaving and measuring out enough red tape to 
 encircle the globe, they finally permitted us to send our laundry 
 ashore, which was a great relief to everybody's mind. The only 
 real excitement to-day was the catching of a shark about eight 
 or ten feet long! I wonder if there is any beast in the world more 
 hideous and repulsive looking? They hauled him up where we 
 could photograph him by way of a diversion. He is probably 
 the most photographed shark in the world! 
 
 The Cap and I kissed and made up at dinner to-night! It 
 seemed to be a wise thing to do, and besides the hot weather is 
 making me thinner so he can't insult me in the same way again 
 
 anyway 
 
 ANOTHER day in Port. The Health Officer didn't arrive 
 until about eleven this morning hoping to find every one 
 up, but he found us all having breakfast in Mary's room as 
 usual, and he took one look at our morning costumes for the 
 Tropics and ran out of the room as he did yesterday. We might 
 have all had aggravated cases of smallpox and he would never 
 have known it! It was a visit of lightning as well as enlightening 
 duration! After luncheon Virginia, Jack and some of the others 
 went over to the Quarantine dock to greet Judge Babbitt and 
 Mr. Hayden from a distance! who arrived this morning and 
 will continue on the trip with us. They returned with a lot of 
 letters and telegrams for every one, and best of all with the 
 news that we are to be allowed to land to-morrow at three p.m. 
 The rest of us played Bridge in an effort to keep cool. 
 
 "Cappie" was very amusing and entertaining this evening 
 at dinner, though I believe he originally intended to tell a per- 
 
 Monday 
 March 2J tb 
 
 Tuesday 
 March 28* 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 4 6 
 
 Tuesday 
 March 28* 
 
 Wednesday 
 March 2 th 
 
 fectly serious story of a dagger-hold-up "adventure" in Italy. 
 However, when he got as far along in the narrative as "Sybil's 
 couch," he was pounced upon by ten sharp-witted people at 
 once, and we never did hear the end of his story, though a 
 number of endings were suggested to him as being unusually 
 appropriate! 
 
 WE WENT up to the oil docks this morning where they 
 kept a careful watch to see that no one slipped ashore, 
 and towards three o'clock we were allowed to land at the main 
 docks after having been previously inspected minutely by that 
 annoying little Health Officer. Motors met us and we drove 
 first to the Tivoli Hotel. Perfectly paved roads shaded by palm 
 trees, with trim little houses on either side, all built several feet 
 above the ground and protected by the finest wire screens in 
 every window and on every piazza. Ancon Hill, where the 
 Officers' quarters are situated, is a hilly park. Lawns and shade 
 trees and flowering shrubs give it a gay and well-kept appear- 
 ance, and the houses all look invitingly cool and comfortable. 
 
 We left our various belongings at the Hotel, and then started 
 off on a shopping tour. Virginia and Mary hunted up a dress- 
 maker to make them some linen skirts, and it was as good as a 
 play to listen to her uninterrupted flow of American slang 
 mingled with "Yes dearie" every other moment. However she 
 made the skirts in the short time required, so we won't abuse 
 her, poor old soul! 
 
 The city of Panama itself is most fascinating. Its narrow 
 winding streets with quaint balconied houses, brightly colored 
 verandas hung with orchid plants and baskets of ferns are 
 charming. It seems to be a thoroughly enterprising town. The 
 shops are very creditable and the shop-keepers are friendly and 
 courteous. 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 We dined with General Edwards and had a really delightful 
 evening. His house could not be better adapted to the sur- 
 roundings. Situated on the edge of a bluff, he has a beautiful 
 view of the harbor from a very long and wide piazza, which 
 extends across the entire front of the house. The piazza floor 
 is highly polished hardwood and if one does like to dance in 
 such a hot climate nothing could be more ideal. A number of 
 Army people came in after dinner and seemed to thoroughly 
 enjoy the dancing. We left rather early, as to-morrow we've a 
 strenuous day ahead of us. Every one is anxious to make the 
 most of each moment, now that our time here has been cut so 
 short. 
 
 Nobody murmurs at early rising, so at eight-thirty we were 
 all ready to start off on a sightseeing day. Indeed if the day had 
 been a hundred hours long, I personally would have felt it were 
 all too short to see the many interesting things we were only 
 able to have a fleeting glimpse of. We went first in General 
 Edwards' motor car, which is built to run on the railroad track, 
 to the Pedro Miguel lock. The motor car looks exactly like a 
 child's toy engine, but it didn't act very much like a toy on the 
 trip to Colon and back, as most of the time we were running at 
 55 miles per hour, by the speedometer. My puerile remarks on 
 the subject of the Canal would be absurd, but a more impressive 
 sight it would be hard to imagine. The "Baby" went with us, 
 and took us up in the Control Tower where there is an exact 
 reproduction of the locks, showing every foot of water that runs 
 in and out, and every turn of a screw and action of a valve. 
 It is perfectly marvelous, though "Cappie" insisted that the 
 electrical devices were only half the horse power of various 
 electrical plants that he controlled and that it was all quite 
 simple and commonplace. To me, knowing nothing of such things 
 of course, it was stupendous and absolutely fascinating in its 
 
 Wednesday 
 March 2y tb 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 4 8 
 
 Wednesday 
 March 2^ tb 
 
 perfection of detail. We then returned to the motor car and 
 went a short distance to Corazal, a little station above Pedro 
 Miguel, where a launch was waiting to take us some distance 
 through the Canal. We all climbed on top of the launch and 
 went through the Culebra cut, where it was particularly inter- 
 esting to see the dredging work going on hundreds of men and 
 innumerable steam shovels. It was like a close observation of a 
 giant ant hill. I suppose if one knows exactly how many square 
 yards of dirt have to be removed, and how many workmen it 
 will take the exact number of days to accomplish it in, one 
 receives an entirely different impression. It simply becomes an 
 interesting mathematical problem on a large scale, but to the 
 eye of a novice and an amateur it is startling and unbelievable 
 and impressive beyond words to describe. It is thrilling! It 
 seems like a bold interference of man with the powers that be, 
 and leaves one wondering which side will win out numbers 
 and ingenuity extraordinary, against sheer bulk. 
 
 At Gamboa we rejoined the little motor with Colon as our 
 destination. Of all the drives we have had so far, it proved to 
 be the most beautiful from the viewpoint of tropical luxurious- 
 ness of growth. Such a wealth of green growing things is unim- 
 aginable! Where the Gatun Lake has been flooded all the trees 
 have died and naturally all the undergrowth is submerged. 
 The dead trees stand leafless and white like so many grave 
 stones, and every one, almost without exception, is replete with 
 orchid plants. 
 
 The hotel at Colon is very modern, one of the few things we've 
 seen that hasn't looked as though it were built the century 
 before last so to speak! We had our luncheon out on a screened 
 porch, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, and incidentally, espe- 
 cially for people living in California or New York, I can't begin 
 to describe the curious feeling of having left the Pacific Ocean 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 an hour or so before, and here to be on the very edge of the 
 Atlantic! The table was too small for our large party (shades of 
 the Josselyn family travelling abroad, when we could never 
 have a meal without the aid of a carpenter and several saw 
 horses and ten-foot planks!) so "Cappie" and I had a "dejeuner 
 a part," during which he tried again to tell me I must not think 
 the mechanism of the Canal was in the least intricate, etc., but 
 I prefer not to believe him and as I '11 never know as much as he 
 does about engineering and electrical problems, I never expect 
 to agree with him, and shan't allow my beautiful illusions to be 
 shattered. 
 
 On the way back we stopped at the Gatun Locks and walked 
 over to the spill-way, which is perhaps the most impressive 
 thing of all, but I will not make any remarks on the subject. 
 It would be so absurd for me to do so. We went through the 
 hydro-electric plant and saw the three water-wheels, and all 
 the machinery which is always awe-inspiring in its precision 
 and perfection. The paths around the buildings and the lawns 
 and flowers are kept in the most immaculate condition. From 
 one end of the Canal to the other the order of every nook and 
 cranny is absolute. It might be a tiny model property glimpsed 
 through a powerful spy-glass instead of the tremendous finished 
 operation it is. 
 
 General Edwards and the "Baby" dined with us to-night 
 and afterwards every one started off on a "joy ride" to see the 
 town. Walter and the Doctor had been thoroughly posted on 
 the ins and outs of it by the loquacious Hotel Barber who had 
 begun his career in the Palace Hotel, San Francisco, and knew 
 a thing or two or three! So immediately after the serving of 
 "the sweets," which are passed at every meal and which are no 
 other than quinine capsules, the party started off. 
 
 I can't record the story of their sight-seeing tour as I was 
 
 Wednesday 
 March 2^ b 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Wednesday 
 March 2^ b 
 
 Friday 
 March 31^ 
 
 dead to the world and had just one idea in my head which was 
 to crawl into bed without delay. I believe they went to the 
 Exposition, which was a perfect farce, but the rest of the expedi- 
 tion wasn't revealed to me! 
 
 THIS morning Virginia, Mary, Walter, the "Baby" and I 
 motored out to Old Panama. It is a beautiful drive and 
 the ruins are remarkably interesting because the walls are in 
 such a strong condition of preservation, though it is two hun- 
 dred and fifty years since the city was pillaged. Enormous trees 
 are growing out of the centres of what were once great rooms. 
 The situation is very beautiful up on a kind of terrace land 
 above the sea. Unfortunately the spirit of "once upon a time" 
 is completely overshadowed by a large square roadhouse where 
 even from the outside one's glimpse is of walls lined with 
 bottles, and the sun's rays just struck a glittering cash register, 
 while a jangling tin-pan electric piano was made to play imme- 
 diately upon our arrival. Such a monstrous insult to our apprecia- 
 tion of things ought not to be tolerated. I can't think of Old 
 Panama without hearing an abominable barbarous tune being 
 ground out of that wretched instrument. I was sorry to miss 
 seeing the fortifications which all the men went to see, while we 
 were at Old Panama, though I wouldn't have missed the latter 
 for anything. 
 
 We went through the Prison and found the prisoners to be the 
 most cheerful people imaginable! They were all sitting around 
 in the court yard chatting comfortably. We were shown a hor- 
 rible black room without light or air of any kind, a ring of iron 
 in the floor to chain the prisoner to, and one in the ceiling to 
 chain his arms a really ghastly hole. We asked naturally if they 
 often had men chained in there, and the guard said he would 
 point out a man who belonged there now, and spent his nights 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 there but was allowed out all day because he worked at some- 
 thing or other, which was profitable to the Prison. He showed 
 him to us a stout, burly looking creature, who wasn't working 
 at all but sitting on a stool gossiping idly with two other men. 
 It may have been a recreation hour, but it certainly looked 
 rather as though the guards were very indulgent. The man 
 grinned, but not in the least sheepishly. He seemed to be 
 immensely amused! Down at one end of the yard there was a 
 high wooden fence, and perched up on the opposite side were a 
 number of women. They looked strong and healthy and on the 
 whole rather pleased with themselves. A kind of proud conceit 
 over being singled out at any price! A white woman in the 
 corner with quite a commonplace face and expression had cold- 
 bloodedly killed a man, but apparently it wasn't on her con- 
 science at all. The guard said no one was ever hung. 
 
 We went through several churches none of which was particu- 
 larly interesting, and then to see the flat Arch, an old ruin, 
 probably of a Church, in the middle of the city, and after that 
 to the National Theatre, a really good building, but unfor- 
 tunately we were unable to see the interior. 
 
 We lunched with General Edwards, who is a delightful host, 
 and had a most enjoyable time. Soon afterwards we departed 
 for the docks and next came the only sad incident of our trip 
 a tearful parting with dear old "Cappie, " whom all were 
 equally loth to leave behind! Various people whom we had met 
 at General Edwards' house including himself and the "Baby," 
 and a fascinating little Panamanian girl, Miss Espinoza, and 
 her brother, came to tea on the Cyprus. No one stayed long 
 however; departure was in the air. Before we knew it almost, we 
 left "Cappie" sitting on the dock and were off, away and out 
 of sight. We gave three rousing cheers and waved handker- 
 chiefs that were somewhat limp, and as a parting goodbye, 
 
 Friday 
 March jis 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Friday 
 
 Saturday 
 April i -st 
 
 Jack dipped the flag! Of course we've no illusions about " Cap- 
 pi e 's" boring himself to death in Panama or anywhere else, but 
 he wanted to come along, and we wanted him to "come along" 
 and we're all very sad! 
 
 Judge Babbitt and Mr. Hayden joined us at Panama, and if 
 Judge Babbitt will kindly forgive my impudence in being so 
 personal, I should like to record my avowed intention here and 
 now of showing him very marked attention. I am certain he is a 
 most delightful person. I have been warned that Mr. Hayden 
 and I will quarrel, because I am so inexcusably positive prob- 
 ably, but we shall see; I don't think so. 
 
 Since I Ve renounced all talk about sunsets I will once again 
 refrain from more than mentioning the dazzling one that saw 
 us sail out of the harbor. Every one was tired out this evening 
 with the day's adventures and emotions, except Walter whose 
 energy is inexhaustible and before we knew it he had us playing 
 a disastrous rubber of Bridge! Virginia and I were only just 
 wide awake enough to follow suit, but short of not renigging, I 
 am convinced we didn't play one single card "according to 
 Hoyle." 
 
 of sight of land all day. A little Bridge, but if I adhere 
 mercilessly to the truth I shall be forced to admit that 
 the entire day was devoted to Deep Sleep by most of the party! 
 I've just concluded we're all terribly and distressingly grown 
 up, for there were no April Fool jokes. Perhaps we were too 
 weary after such strenuous days in Panama and too sad over 
 the absence of "Cappie" to be so light-hearted! At least those 
 are the only excuses I can think of for ignoring the foolishnesses 
 that keep us young! 
 
 A hawk alighted on one of the masts to-day, though we are 
 over two hundred miles off shore! 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 WE HAD a glimpse of the mainland to-day. At nine this 
 morning we crossed the Equator. But there were no 
 events, adventures or remarks apropos of this, which is a bitter 
 disappointment to me of course. I 've heard all my life of the 
 pranks played on persons who cross the Equator for the first 
 time, and wanted to see them, but I believe it is my own fault 
 entirely as the Crew had some "goings on" but it was so early, 
 alas, that we, as an audience, were not on deck. Strangely 
 enough this is the coolest day we've felt in weeks! 
 
 \ RATHER overcast sky. We are making record-breaking 
 ./Y. time and a heavy land swell has been the principal topic 
 of conversation among certain persons! It has really been a day 
 of Bridge ceaseless and unending. At dinner a heated argument 
 on the difference between instinct, intuition and reason made 
 every one homesick for "Cappie," though on this particular 
 occasion, I am not prepared to say whether any one except 
 Jack lodged especially for his presence, as it would have meant 
 a discussion probably lasting until midnight. And it's rather 
 too hot for that! 
 
 ANOTHER more or less overcast day. The islands just 
 before reaching the port of Callao were literally covered 
 with gulls, countless numbers. With the spy-glass one could 
 see barely a single speck of rock on which there was not a bird 
 resting, and the whole ocean was dotted with them flying about 
 and diving for fish. The coolness of the atmosphere is a blessed 
 relief to me at least, and a first appearance of sweaters, and 
 steamer rugs might have been observed, though it is still quite 
 warm enough to sit about in thin clothes without either coats 
 or rugs, unless one is sleeping, a pastime that has been much 
 indulged in today! 
 
 Sunday 
 April 2 n <l 
 
 Monday 
 AprL 
 
 Tuesday 
 Apriljtb 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Tuesday We anchored about seven p.m., and fortunately all the 
 arrangements for our immediate landing had been made. Billy 
 Holloway turned up and it seemed nice to see a familiar face 
 not that any one is homesick, but just on general principles. 
 We had dinner on board and left immediately afterward for 
 Callao, just a big seaport town of which we couldn't see very 
 much at that time of night. An electric car met us at the dock 
 and in twenty-five minutes we were in Lima. Mr. and Mrs. 
 Aldrich didn 't come, but Judge Babbitt and Mr. Hayden were 
 sufficiently enthusiastic to take a reticule between them and 
 brave a night spent in the Hotel. 
 
 We went first to Billy Holloway 's house, which is situated 
 conveniently for him, just over the offices of W. R. Grace & Co. 
 and where he lives with a very nice young man named Charlie 
 Bush, who proceeded to join the party. Their house is really 
 exceptionally charming: large cool-looking rooms with an alto- 
 gether delightful absence of bric-a-brac. In the dining room is a 
 set of really good old Sheraton, and in the sort of living hall, 
 where the floor is tiled, are nice big stuffed chairs and a table 
 with books and papers; flowers everywhere. In another room 
 was a grand piano, and the spotless hard-wood floor looked very 
 inviting for dancing. Off this room a few steps led through a 
 window to a little roof garden, an awning overhead, a lot of 
 comfortable-looking chairs and plants and flowers in the 
 greatest profusion. Whatever these young men may have to 
 contend with in living in a foreign and faraway country they 
 are certainly only to be envied with regard to their little home. 
 It is wonderfully attractive. 
 
 We drove all about the city in really-truly old-fashioned 
 French fiacres, except that they were all drawn by two horses. 
 The drivers insisted upon racing each other through the narrow 
 streets, which left much to be desired as a lark in the minds of 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 the passengers! We went out to a place called The Exposition, 
 where we had some lemonade and expected to see some gaiety 
 from the appearance of the place which was large and festive 
 looking, but it was almost empty, and Mr. Holloway assured 
 us it was never anything else. There was quite a good orchestra 
 composed of Austrian women. It was rather grotesque to see the 
 bass-viol being played upon by a large woman in a white "girl 
 graduate" sort of costume, as indeed they were all dressed. 
 
 There was a single row of cocoanut palms that stood out 
 wonderfully against the sky in the moonless night, and from 
 the terrace where we sat it was lovely. We drove around the 
 town which was exceedingly quiet, and then took the electric 
 car to Callao, and went back to the Cyprus for the night. To- 
 morrow morning we will see Lima in our usual thorough way. 
 
 EVERY one was up early and ready for a strenuous day. 
 We left the yacht about 9:30 and were back in Lima soon 
 after ten. We climbed into the rickety old hacks again they 
 are so much more amusing to drive about these cities in, than 
 the motors which tear through the streets at a terrific speed and 
 give you no opportunity to see the thousand and one things 
 that one wants to see. We did a substantial amount of shopping 
 of course, and entered all the churches we passed and then out 
 to the Museum. There were grave doubts as to whether we 
 would be permitted to see the Museum, as the old keeper had a 
 serious sense of his responsibility and no one was allowed to 
 visit between the hours of twelve and one. He "shooed" us all 
 away as hard as he could, but Walter walked right past him 
 with the demeanor and bearing of a king, and the man stood 
 by with an awed expression and then let the entire troop 
 through his little gate, with an air of deference that was amus- 
 ing! It is a very large museum with the usual things in it, but 
 
 Tuesday 
 Apri 
 
 Wednesday 
 Aprils* 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Wednesday nothing that we could discover of any extraordinary interest. 
 We went to the National Theatre and to the Market and all the 
 customary points of interest, and then to Mr. Holloway's house 
 where we had a delicious luncheon. 
 
 We went afterward to see an old Church. There was a Monas- 
 tery next to it and a Monk took all the men through it, but the 
 rest of us were not allowed to cross the sacred precincts, much 
 to our disappointment. We were particularly distressed at being 
 denied this privilege when the men returned and told us how 
 beautiful the court was and what wonderful old treasures they 
 had been shown. 
 
 Our day in Lima was a thoroughly satisfactory one but I 
 could have wished we had had several to spare there. I am 
 certain there are all kinds of things to see and places to visit 
 that we did not have time for. 
 
 To-night we had a Fancy Dress dinner to celebrate Virginia 
 and Jack's first anniversary. Virginia wore an impromptu 
 Tehuantepec costume, with additional Lima touches. Jack and 
 Mr. Hayden and Judge Babbitt attired themselves in scrapes 
 which had been picked up in Mexico. Walter was a pirate, in a 
 costume made entirely by his admirers, the crew. His bale rope 
 hair and beard, and the whisk brooms for pistols were scream- 
 ingly funny. Mr. and Mrs. Aldrich were a Dutch bride and 
 groom. Having brought their costumes from New York, which 
 were exact in every detail, their appearance was hailed with 
 great enthusiasm. Mary wore a bathing suit, which by the way 
 was the only time she had occasion to wear it. It was censored. 
 
 There were speeches and toasts and good wishes galore 
 everybody loves a Fancy Dress party. 
 
 Friday 
 April 
 
 AT SIX-THIRTY this morning we found ourselves at Mol- 
 lendo just an open roadstead but an infinitely better 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 landing than San Jose. Mr. Rogers came on board and various Friday 
 other persons, and soon after we went on shore prepared for a $ r ?' 
 ten days' trip into the interior of Peru and Bolivia. At first we 
 thought we should have to get into a chair and be hauled up to 
 the quay by a kind of derrick, but they assured us it was the 
 smoothest sea they had seen for six months and we landed quite 
 comfortably. Our special train was waiting for us, a chair car 
 and three sleeping cars. While they put the baggage on, Mr. 
 Aldrich took some moving pictures which ought to be very 
 interesting as there was a great deal of activity of many and 
 varied kinds going on around the docks. In one corner a group 
 of men had taken off all their clothes and were scrubbing them 
 quite unconcernedly on the edge of the pier; barges and boats 
 of every conceivable kind were being loaded and unloaded; 
 altogether it was a very busy and bustling scene and one that 
 was most interesting, as the people seemed all to be much more 
 alive and wideawake than any of those we had seen heretofore. 
 We left Mollendo about nine, and wound up the sandy, rocky, 
 brown mountains the picture of desolation, a few half-deserted 
 villages with ragged children grouped about the huts watching 
 the train go by, and donkeys untethered, but unlikely to stray 
 from the only signs of civilization for miles and miles and miles 
 in every direction. An almost unbelievable sight as we climbed 
 the rugged mountains was the glimpse of a fertile little valley 
 below, all under cultivation and planted principally with sugar 
 cane. It looked exactly like a wide river bed, as indeed it 
 undoubtedly had been, with steep straight mountainous banks. 
 The valley winds a little, just as the river originally taught it 
 to do, and only ends with the sea. We could see the ocean for 
 miles and miles as we wound in and out of the mountains: a 
 great blue expanse with the sun shining brightly on it, in spite 
 of all the accounts I Ve read in books on South America, which 
 

 58 
 
 
 Friday 
 
 
 April 7^ 
 
 on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 HH 
 
 invariably say the sun never shines except through a kind of 
 hazy mist on the west coast along here. 
 
 It seemed strange to meet Mr. Rogers so far away, of whom 
 we had seen something in San Francisco ten years or more ago ! 
 He will be with us for several weeks I believe, having been 
 working at the mining properties Jack is interested in. We 
 deluged him with questions about the country and its products, 
 needless to say, as we are all equally anxious not to let any- 
 thing of interest escape us. 
 
 The hills are covered with a scrubby little plant so sparse and 
 colorless that even from a very short distance they appear to be 
 absolutely bare. Now and then a cactus plant catches the eye, 
 and once or twice we saw small herds of mountain sheep, but 
 generally these were to be seen near the railroad water stations. 
 At Cashendo, after about two hours of steady climbing, we had 
 a marvelous glimpse of snow-covered Misti with the sun shining 
 on it. The hills are a network of narrow winding paths made by 
 the goats and sheep and llamas. They look like great colossal 
 outline maps, which of course they are, if I may be pardoned 
 for saying so. 
 
 We had a really excellent luncheon: chicken, unusually good 
 potatoes and the most delicious grapes and peaches. Every- 
 body drank Agua Jesus', which is of course " du pays." 
 
 At a little station called Vitor, we found a tiny hut which had 
 been fitted up as a Church. An attempt to make an altar had 
 been accomplished by draping the rough boards with quan- 
 tities of white tarlatan, on which were placed one or two primi- 
 tive colored statues. Next door was another such hut, which 
 was the village school. There were two or three little desks in it. 
 It would have been interesting to see a class in progress! 
 
 The town consisted of nothing except the railroad station and 
 one or two adobe huts. 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 59 
 
 Soon we came to a kind of plateau covered with sand dunes, Friday 
 formed identically alike in the shape of a half moon. The train ^ 
 was stopped and we all got out to examine and photograph 
 them. It would be impossible to imagine finer white sand or 
 more symmetrical figures. Some were larger than others but the 
 plain suggested a giant bakery of French "crescents"! By 
 actual calculation, they move toward the sea about three hun- 
 dred feet per year. What a fascinating prank of Nature's to 
 baffle and confuse us? 
 
 At two o'clock we reached Arequipa. Needless to say we were 
 met at the station by a Ford ! Other motors as well, but aways 
 the inevitable Ford. First we drove around the Square, which 
 is very large, and is given an air of great importance by the 
 Cathedral, which occupies one entire side. The Cathedral is a 
 really beautiful building, architecturally quite unlike anything 
 we've seen. Afterwards we visited the Church of the Jesuits 
 which is full of treasures. The main entrance is of magnificently 
 carved stone, but this was locked and barred, so we walked 
 down the side street and got in through a little passage way 
 where there were lovely trees, plants and vines all in bloom. 
 The sacristy has a wonderful frescoed dome which is unusually 
 beautiful, and there are some splendid old paintings and statues. 
 In the church proper are several altars of gilded carved wood, 
 very ornate but exquisitely done. Mary, Walter and I followed 
 the Priest up a little winding stairway to a kind of terrace where 
 the stone and masonry were crumbling away before our very 
 eyes, but from where we had a delightful view of the old Cloister 
 and a garden below. We climbed up a little higher still, up stone 
 steps worn so thin in the centre that we positively had difficulty 
 in reaching the top without falling backward up to the belfry. 
 The Priest told us they had been forbidden to ring the bell 
 which hung there, because it was thought the vibration would 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 60 
 
 Friday cause the entire Church to collapse, and from the great cracks 
 Apnlft anc j } oose s tone, it appeared to be more than likely that just 
 this would happen. From here the view of the Cathedral facade 
 and spires across the Square, and snow-covered Misti in the 
 distance, was a sight alone that one would willingly have come 
 all this way to see. 
 
 Next we visited the Hospital a very modern and apparently 
 well equipped one. It consists of a dozen or more one-story 
 buildings with a Chapel in the centre and nicely kept gardens 
 on all sides. We went into two or three of the wards; they were 
 scrupulously clean and quite cheerful looking. We were told 
 that there was a great deal of typhoid in Arequipa; at any rate 
 there must be a great deal of illness of one kind or another as 
 every bed was occupied. 
 
 We motored up to the Harvard Observatory, which is situ- 
 ated, I should say, about two miles from the centre of the town. 
 The streets were so narrow that there was only just room for 
 the motor to creep along, and when we met a pedestrian or a 
 donkey or llama, they would, individually or collectively, have 
 not only to get up on the apology for a side-walk, but some- 
 times even huddle into a doorway, to permit us to pass! Such 
 filthy hovels I've never imagined could exist! Little square or 
 rounded rooms of adobe with a smoky fire smouldering in the 
 middle, and men, women, children, dogs and chickens grovel- 
 ling about on the floor in the midst of such dirt as it would be 
 wicked to describe! It was really sickening. 
 
 The Observatory was very interesting. We saw the Moon, 
 and after some difficulty, the Cross on the summit of Misti, 
 placed there some years ago by the Bishop of Peru to fulfill a 
 promise he had made to the people when the plague should be 
 eradicated. We saw numerous plates of the photographic tele- 
 scope which I fancy are not unusual, but I had never seen any 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 before and was interested in the process by which the telescope 
 and plate are made to synchronize with the motion of the 
 Earth. 
 
 At six o'clock we returned to our funny little train. Every car 
 is a different shape, size and height a perfect picture of rem- 
 nants of different sets of childish toys hitched up together! 
 One couldn't dream there would be any possibility of its re- 
 maining "hitched up" if the ridiculous little engine should 
 start! 
 
 EVERY one was a little the worse for the altitude last 
 night. We were up as high as 14,688 feet so it was hardly 
 surprising! Right on the summit, to make matters worse, we 
 had a hot box and were delayed for an hour or more. All day 
 the train wound its way through the mountains and along the 
 river banks. I Ve never seen more beautiful country. All the 
 little valleys were cultivated, and even half way up the steep 
 mountain sides the ground was terraced and every available 
 inch used to the best advantage. The villages succeed each other 
 almost without interruption, all exactly alike in their grouping 
 around the Church, and all built of mud, some tiled and some 
 thatched, and almost invariably with an iron cross on the roof. 
 Along the trails, donkey and llama packs followed by a man or a 
 woman or sometimes both and children as well, trudged their 
 weary way. The Indians were dressed without exception in the 
 peasant costume of the country and are by far the most pic- 
 turesque natives I've ever seen anywhere in the world: always 
 a blue skirt and a red jacket, and the weirdest little flat hats. 
 The women drive the llamas over the hills, often with a baby 
 slung on their backs in a shawl and spinning as fast as they can 
 with a kind of little home-made wooden top. This whole day 
 has absolutely fascinated me from beginning to end. The coun- 
 
 Friday 
 Apri 
 
 Saturday 
 AprilS* 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 62 
 
 Saturday 
 April 8* 
 
 try itself, the little succession of huddled villages, the extra- 
 ordinarily picturesque costumes, the " old-worldness " which 
 I adore! 
 
 As we neared Cuzco, both sides of the river were thickly over- 
 grown with broom plant all in flower; quantities of pampas 
 grass and cactus, hung with a grayish kind of moss. 
 
 We arrived at Cuzco about 6:30 and went up to the Hotel for 
 dinner in a clattering old street car drawn by four scrawny 
 mules. Incidentally, it is the only wheeled vehicle in the town. 
 There isn't a wagon, an ox-cart or even a wheelbarrow! Every- 
 thing is packed on the backs of donkeys and llamas for trans- 
 portation, or else in a sack slung over the backs of the men and 
 women. 
 
 We had quite a good dinner at the most elaborately decorated 
 table it is possible to conceive of. Every ornament in the house 
 had been put in the middle of the table with here and there a 
 tight little bunch of flowers, and colored tissue paper cut into 
 every kind of fancy design was strung from the ceiling and 
 festooned about the walls. There must have been at least nine 
 or ten courses, five or six of which were different kinds of meat. 
 Quantity rather than quality seems to be the motto they follow 
 in most of these places. The Hotel itself was rather a quaint 
 place built around a court with a little upstairs arched gallery 
 painted in the usual bright blue. After dinner we took a walk 
 around the Square, which is said to be the largest in Peru, and 
 went into one or two Churches. It was too dark to see much of 
 anything in detail, but a wonderful occasion for a general 
 impression. It was all delightfully old. 
 
 Later we went back to the car to spend the night in preference 
 to the Hotel; every one retired very early so that they might 
 have a "from the beginning to the end" sightseeing day on the 
 morrow. 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 OUR first visit in Cuzco this morning was to the Market. Sunday 
 Being Sunday, it was an unusually good day to see it. 
 Such a blaze of color! A more spectacular sight one could not 
 picture. Hundreds and hundreds of Indian men and women 
 with their babies on the ground beside them, selling food, cloth- 
 ing, and even wood and charcoal. Each was dressed in bright 
 blue, red and green, the men wearing comical little knitted caps 
 with ear flaps, tied under their chins, trousers that came just 
 below their knees, and the poncho, often ragged but always 
 dazzling in color. The women 's hats were shaped exactly like a 
 large dinner plate made of some kind of black cloth with little 
 square and triangular bits of colored cotton sewn in a design 
 on the top. Every now and then a drove of llamas came walking 
 by, with their ridiculous long necks and empty little heads held 
 in the most absurdly disdainful and proud aristocratic way, 
 reminding one so unmistakably of the type of persons who " put 
 on airs" without the slightest justification for doing so! 
 
 At the corner of the market square a Magician stood on a high 
 platform, making remarkable fluted fans out of newspaper in a 
 really miraculous way, but the Indians were all infinitely more 
 interested in the collection of strange foreigners, and deserted 
 his booth to follow us, whereupon the Magician flew into a rage 
 and shouted dreadful sounding names at them and at us as 
 well! From eight in the morning until seven at night we had 
 from twenty-five to fifty men and boys following us from place 
 to place, dogging our footsteps, so to speak. One little imp took 
 a tremendous fancy to Virginia and made it his business person- 
 ally to conduct her every step of the way through Cuzco; he 
 even gave her some pennies, which I think must have been the 
 very last word in devotion ! We all bought ponchos and caps at 
 the Market with the much needed help of Mr. Watkins who 
 bargained for us very successfully. Next we found our way to 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Sunday an Antique shop where Virginia bought a perfectly beautiful 
 ipnlyt Crucifix and the rest of us picked up various interesting old 
 souvenirs of Inca days. Every step we took through the streets 
 was full of interest: the old Inca walls, the carved stone door- 
 ways, the exquisitely carved wooden balconies, and always the 
 Indians with their glory of color! We climbed up a steep winding 
 narrow street to a second curiosity shop, where we found more 
 interesting souvenirs. The man had only a few really nice things 
 that he was willing to sell and here as elsewhere appeared to be 
 perfectly indifferent as to whether we bought anything or not, 
 though we realized that this was just part of his game as he 
 made every possible effort to get us to go back to his shop 
 again late in the afternoon, and the very things, such as an 
 exquisite piece of Inca tapestry woven in silver and gold, that 
 he wouldn't sell at all on the occasion of our first visit, he finally 
 agreed not only to part with, but to part with at Jack's price 
 and not his own! 
 
 We spent an interesting half-hour in the Cathedral which is 
 very beautiful and filled with marvelous carving, mostly drop- 
 ping to pieces. It seems a perfect sacrilege not to keep these 
 treasures intact, but they are now only remnants of a past 
 splendor. The Choir stalls are too beautiful! On a carved stand 
 was a collection of wonderful old vellum music books, and over 
 a gilt chair was carelessly thrown a piece of glorious rose colored 
 Genoese velvet. The grille of carved gold and reddish wood, 
 about twenty feet high, which enclosed the Choir stall was 
 superb. The carved Pulpit, the silver Altars, each separate thing 
 was a work of art. In an adjoining room, exquisite carved chests 
 and doors were piled up against the walls, covered with dust 
 and dirt just as old lumber might be stored in a cellar. Amongst 
 various other things was part of a grandfather's clock made of 
 Chinese lacquer; now how do you suppose that ever got there? 
 I 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 From the Cathedral we went to the Church built on the foun- 
 dations of the original Temple of the Sun; of this last there is 
 just a curved wall remaining. There is a Monastery next the 
 Church, so "the ladies" were left outside a heavy iron bound 
 door, while a Monk took the men through the sacred precincts ! 
 We went into the Church to wait for them and thought we 
 heard the music of an organ very faintly, but as we tiptoed up 
 to the Altar, we found a very, very old woman, dressed all in 
 black with a heavy black shawl over her head, playing on a 
 kind of home-made harp. Her small hands and stiff gnarled 
 ringers seemed somehow to have very little to do with the music, 
 the same air over and over again, but with never a hint of 
 monotony. I believe very reverently that the music we heard 
 was the music of her soul. I do not think any of us have ever 
 seen in all our lives a more awe-inspiring, touching and pathetic 
 scene. As Virginia so aptly remarked, "Who says that the 
 Jongleur de Notre Dame is fiction?" When the Monk returned, 
 he told us that the old woman was totally blind, and that for as 
 long as he could remember, which was many many years, she 
 came every day of her life and played before the Altar for hours. 
 Perhaps the notes of that primitive old harp are heard a long 
 way over the seas. 
 
 We peeked into the forbidden court, which was a very great 
 mistake because it was difficult to be resigned to not seeing it 
 all, it was so beautiful. The centre was a mass of blooming 
 flowers, and under the arches the walls were hung with enor- 
 mous oil paintings of Biblical scenes; the floor was of mosaic: 
 harmonious unfaded colors, that the world to-day admires but 
 does not imitate. 
 
 After luncheon at the Hotel, we started off on our pilgrimage 
 to the Inca ruins above Cuzco. I shouldn't call them ruins for 
 every stone is just exactly where it was placed and where it was 
 
 Sunday 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Sunday 
 
 intended that it should remain, so many years ago that such a 
 time seems too indefinite to mention in terms of new-fashioned 
 years ! 
 
 A whole troop of horses were brought down to the narrow 
 little street in front of the Hotel, and it must really have been 
 an amusing sight to watch us mount them, which was accom- 
 plished with some difficulty. The saddles were just as funny as 
 they could be; no two were alike. They might easily have been 
 selected by a crank collector, who wanted freak saddles for an 
 exhibition! They were of every conceivable variety, size and 
 age. Most of the side-saddles were built exactly on the opposite 
 plan to ours, and seemed to have been designed with a diabol- 
 ical opposition to the human anatomy! If a horse sneezed we 
 were sure to be off! It was an amusing cavalcade that started 
 up the steep narrow streets; the Indians seemed to see the 
 humor of it too. They looked us over critically, and smiled and 
 whispered amongst each other in an indulgent sort of way! 
 Once out of the city, we climbed up a steep flight of roughly 
 hewn stone steps which the horses accepted as a matter of 
 course. There must have been a quarter of a mile at least of 
 this unique kind of highway and just as we reached the top, the 
 rain came down in torrents, which was hardly reassuring for the 
 descent later on. No one was dressed either for riding or for 
 rain, and needless to say we were soon drenched to the skin. 
 Virginia and Mary fared the worst as over their thin dresses 
 they had only pongee dusters! 
 
 The old fortifications are composed of marvelous great stones 
 of inestimable size and weight, placed one on top of the other 
 with the most perfect precision, and never a particle of cement 
 to hold them. One can only weakly conjecture how the Indians 
 ever got the stones there in the first place or how they ever 
 moved them; and finding that one fails utterly to guess the 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 67 
 
 riddle, give it up and be content to wonder and admire and 
 respect. We urged our horses up a steep path which led to the 
 very top where we had a remarkable panoramic view of the city 
 of Cuzco, and all the surrounding country as well. 
 
 We went on to a grassy little plateau, where a group of people 
 were thoroughly enjoying a Sunday picnic. There was a tent at 
 one side, where several old women and an old man were sitting 
 sheltered from the rain, and from where they watched the 
 young people dancing merrily to the music of a guitar, with the 
 most perfect and enviable disregard of the weather! We saw the 
 famous sliding stone, and on all sides were seats and steps cut 
 out of the solid rock, and at the base of one huge mass of stone 
 was the entrance to a cave which is supposed to connect by 
 underground passages with the Cathedral in Cuzco. They told 
 us a tale of some adventurous Americans exploring this passage 
 way, who were never heard of again, but somehow it didn't 
 sound like a true story, and no one was particularly impressed 
 by it. The fields were a mass of lovely wild flowers, especially 
 bright colored with quantities of wild calceolaria. 
 
 As we started down the flight of steps on our poor patient old 
 horses, the rain came down with redoubled energy. A drove of 
 llamas barred our way, and appeared to be peculiarly indifferent 
 as to whether we ever got by or not; it seemed to be an excellent 
 opportunity for them to come to a standstill and rest. How- 
 ever, with a lot of prodding and coaxing, the Indians finally 
 drove them up on the steep bank and we managed to slide on 
 down the pathway, which by now had become a waterfall! 
 We would have gotten along fairly well if the small boys who 
 had followed us had not persisted in getting right under our 
 horses' feet, clutching at their bridles and making themselves 
 a nuisance generally. Virginia spoke to them harshly in English 
 and I am forced to admit that they seemed to understand her 
 
 Sunday 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 68 
 
 Sunday perfectly, which proves that it really isn 't what you say, it's the 
 w^yyousayit! 
 
 We went back to the train and changed our clothes for a fresh 
 exploring tour in Cuzco. No one had minded the storm in the 
 least. The ride had been so very worth while, that I can't really 
 think of anything that could have spoiled it unless it were 
 people; certainly not things! 
 
 We went next to the Museum: a low dark room in the inner 
 court yard of an adobe house. An old woman and her daughter 
 hobbled out and unlocked the door with a fitting degree of 
 solemnity, and lighted two candles in an avaricious sort of way, 
 watching them burn, and secretly hoping we would soon see all 
 we wanted, so that the tallow might be saved. There were a 
 number of skeletons, mummies rather, hung on the wall, their 
 knees doubled up under their chins, their hands clutching at 
 their heads and the most terrible expressions on their faces 
 that it is possible to imagine. Undoubtedly they had been 
 buried alive! There were some old Inca war weapons and a lot 
 of pottery and a few old carved chests, but nothing anybody 
 coveted, except a hideous uncanny trepanned skull which Jack 
 set his heart upon to take home to Dr. Moffitt. We went away 
 empty handed, and I have a feeling it is just as well! From here 
 we went back to the Antique store on the hill, as I believe I 've 
 already said. A white-frocked friar came panting up the hill 
 after us to beg that we visit his Church, called the Campania, 
 before we leave Cuzco, which we promised to do. In due time, 
 we arrived at the Church, warmly greeted by the old Monk. 
 Walter tried to buy a rug in the Church, but there was some 
 rejoicing when he failed, as it looked too dirty and germy for 
 words! I crept down a steep narrow little flight of stairs into an 
 underground crypt, in search of adventure, but didn't remain 
 very long for reasons that it is hardly necessary to relate! 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 Cuzco is very, very real. It is one of those places where one 
 leaves an intangible something, which some day one is reminded 
 one must return to claim. 
 
 We went back rather reluctantly to the train, where we dined 
 in our funny little two-by-four dining room; an evening spent 
 in reflections of a day crammed full of interesting things and 
 thoughts about a people who live in a world we don't under- 
 stand. Sometime I shall spend a hundred days in Cuzco at 
 least; it is a place where ideas are born; it is saturated with 
 reminiscences of a past that belongs to us but which we've 
 ignored; a place where even the arrogant and intolerant should 
 be willing to learn, and lay teaching aside for a while. 
 
 WE LEFT Cuzco last night at nine and arrived early this 
 morning at Puno, where the boat was waiting to take us 
 across Lake Titicaca. It was quite a nice boat, large and with 
 very comfortable clean staterooms. Lake Titicaca is 12,541 feet 
 above sea level, and it took us from eight o'clock this morning 
 until eight o'clock this evening to reach Guaqui the other 
 end. It is wonderfully beautiful; the water is as blue and as clear 
 as it is possible for water to be, and on one side is a range of 
 snow mountains one hundred and fifty miles long; utterly inac- 
 cessible heights where all the lights of the world find a resting 
 place. We stopped at two of the numerous islands the Island 
 of the Sun and the Island of the Moon. 
 
 The first, the Island of the Sun, had a little miniature harbor 
 where The Inca anchored. We got into a rowboat and landed on 
 a small rocky pier. In the centre of the half-moon beach a pink 
 adobe farm house is situated, with of course a Church just 
 adjoining it. We asked to be allowed to go into the Church, 
 and were told that the man who had the key was only a short 
 distance away, and they would send some one to fetch him. 
 
 Sunday 
 
 Monday 
 April i &b 
 
70 
 
 Monday 
 Apr ill th 
 
 on South America with Variations! From 
 
 We waited a long time but the man with the key never ap- 
 peared. There was one hopeful moment when an Indian came 
 running barefoot down the mountain side, over the rockiest 
 trail imaginable, but he had nothing to do with the key of the 
 Church, and we were obliged to leave with our curiosity unsatis- 
 fied. As he glided along that precipitous path in his many- 
 colored costume, he looked exactly like an illustration in a 
 boys' book of adventure; one would have liked to turn over the 
 illustrated page and continue the story. 
 
 When we were ready to leave, there was a small boy missing, 
 a child who apparently belonged to one of the stewards on 
 The Inca and who had come ashore with us. The boat whistled 
 frantically for him, and finally the poor kiddie he was not 
 more than seven or eight came running back from I don't 
 know where, clutching a big branch of some shrub, and so 
 breathless I thought he would faint. He evidently did not relish 
 the idea of being left alone with the Indians on the Island of 
 the Sun. His trophy proved to be some herb with wonderful 
 healing power that only grew on that Island. 
 
 Our next stop was at the Island of the Moon. Here again we 
 landed in the small boat, which they ran up on the beach. There 
 was no pier and not even a hut in sight; only the marvelous old 
 ruins of the Temple of the Moon. The entire population came 
 running down to the beach to meet us and greeted us in the 
 friendliest way possible. They are all of the Aymara tribe and 
 don't speak or understand any Spanish at all, but they seemed 
 pleased to see us and stood in groups while we photographed 
 them, uncomprehending but ingenuously amused at the pas- 
 time we took so seriously and which seemed to them to be with- 
 out results! There was one almost beautiful young woman with 
 a baby tucked away in the shawl that was slung on her back. 
 A good deal of embarrassment was caused by asking her which 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 man was her husband that is, embarrassment among us, for 
 she was quite unconscious of any, and replied with a smiling 
 shrug of her little burdened shoulders, that she really didn't 
 know! I believe these Indians have no marriage laws, that is, 
 they don 't marry. I suppose the world brands them as a people 
 without morals. Perhaps in their primitive way, their minds are 
 cleaner than ours, who judge them. We are all so busy loudly 
 proclaiming to the world what our individual standard of right 
 and wrong is, that very few of us have any time left to put our 
 theories into practise. I have a great deal of respect for the 
 people who are so ignorantly called savages. 
 
 We rambled all over the ruined Temple which is situated on 
 the height overlooking the great wide blue lake and within 
 worshiping distance of the snow mountains. There was a splen- 
 did old wall below with hardly a stone out of place; these places 
 are so full of interesting things, one can't possibly leave them 
 in any way satisfied. There were some small boys on the beach 
 playing with sling-shots woven out of wool and it was remark- 
 able to see their skill as they hurled the stones out into the lake, 
 almost as far as the eye could reach. 
 
 Here, as everywhere, I left reluctantly. Could one leave in any 
 other way a place with such a name? The Island of the Moon! 
 Half the romance in the world must be hidden away there. 
 
 We sailed past the towns of St. Peter and St. Paul and until 
 it grew dark, revelled in seeing what I think must be the most 
 magnificent scenery in all the world. It is the first time that I 
 have been able to put a definite meaning in my mind to the 
 word "scenery," but now I know that it describes something 
 exalted that one can only speak of in weak meaningless terms. 
 The snow mountains with that indescribable light on them, the 
 reflection in the water, the clouds gathering it all up and mak- 
 ing a pretense of running away with it, the hillsides planted in 
 
 Monday 
 Apri 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 7 2 
 
 Monday grain, each tinged a different blending color by the setting sun, 
 April ict Ulemani and Serrata both over 20,000 feet high, majestic, 
 stately, cold but inspiring nevertheless, I can't describe the 
 beauty of this close of day on Lake Titicaca; it needs a language 
 of thought, rather than speech. 
 
 Tuesday T T T SLEPT on the boat and left Guaqui by train at eight 
 April ii V V o'clock this morning. Just a few miles farther on, we 
 stopped at Tiajuanaco where we got off the train and walked 
 over to see the pre-Inca Temple ruins and monoliths, the most 
 amazing collection of colossal stones I Ve ever seen. Only photo- 
 graphs can give any idea of them though I 'm afraid the carved 
 hieroglyphics which are one of the most interesting things about 
 them, will not show in the photographs, as the inscriptions are 
 not very deeply cut, or, what is perhaps more likely, have been 
 almost obliterated by time and the effect of the weather. There 
 are two statues about ten or twelve feet high, one facing north 
 and one facing south; a massive stone gateway; a great flight of 
 steps; then again a whole row of smaller statues; fragments of a 
 high wall, countless things to fill one's mind with awe and 
 wonder. In the centre of all this splendor of the past a hideous 
 steel shed has been built; no walls, just a more or less Pagoda 
 shaped roof and a concrete floor and they have dragged what 
 stones they were able to move, inside it. They call it a Museum, 
 I believe. A more ridiculous, pretentious structure it would be 
 impossible to picture, or one so out of place and unnecessary. 
 One can't but wonder who ever had such a diabolical idea. Of 
 course, though very large, it is too insignificant in comparison 
 with that half unburied city, the relics of a civilization we are 
 accustomed to speak of as "barbarous," but which was really 
 so much greater than ours, to do more than merely exasperate 
 one for a brief moment. 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 We are now in Bolivia, having crossed the border between 
 Bolivia and Peru in about the middle of LakeTiticaca. At 1 1 rjo 
 we reached a station called Alto where a little electric train took 
 us down into La Paz. Just before we started on our descent, 
 from the top of the great chasm, the view of the city hundreds 
 of feet below us and of the surrounding mountains was too 
 wonderful. There was something about the reddish rocky moun- 
 tains that suggested very vividly some portions of the Grand 
 Canon. The tiled roofs lent an exquisite note of color, blending 
 perfectly with that of the great rocky formation on all sides. 
 
 We reached the city shortly after twelve. Driving from the 
 station we were much interested in watching the inhabitants 
 busily washing their clothes and drying them along the banks 
 of the river which winds down by the road. Mr. Aldrich went 
 back to take some moving pictures of these thrifty people which 
 I trust will be good but unfortunately the glorious blaze of color 
 will be lacking! We drove to the Hotel Guibert for luncheon. 
 It was an old Spanish house of enormous proportions, and the 
 dining room in the court looked so attractive that we refused to 
 have luncheon in the dark, stuffy little private dining room they 
 had prepared for us, but it didn 't really much matter, as it hap- 
 pened, where we sat we might just as well have given up the 
 idea of luncheon altogether for there was practically not a 
 morsel of food that any of us could swallow! In spite of this 
 fact, the hotel keeper, who had evidently dined well but not 
 wisely himself, tried to charge us such an exorbitant sum for 
 our meal that I wouldn't dare mention it for fear it would be 
 called a "Josselyn exaggeration"! 
 
 Afterward we got into dilapidated old rock-a-ways drawn by 
 four horses and drove out through the residence district to a bluff 
 from which we had a magnificent view of the mountains sur- 
 rounding us, and of the city beneath. The houses looked rather 
 
 Tuesday 
 April 1 1* 
 
74 
 
 Tuesday 
 April 
 
 on South America with Variations! From 
 
 French villa-like; quite gay and perky! Quantities of stained 
 glass windows and colored statuary in the gardens; every other 
 one was a Foreign Embassy. Next we visited the Museum which 
 was full of very interesting Inca relics and also an excellent col- 
 lection of birds, butterflies, beetles, snakes, etc. I was immensely 
 interested in the Ecuador head of an Indian woman reduced to 
 the size of a small doll, with long hair apparently in perfectly 
 healthy condition. The mouth had three wooden pegs through 
 the lips in perpendicular fashion, and these were bound from 
 one to the other with narrow strips of raw-hide. I had a few 
 words of conversation with the old German in charge, who 
 incidentally was just back from San Francisco where he had 
 been sent to look after the Bolivian exhibition at the P. P. I. E. 
 He told me a number of interesting and instructive things but 
 when I asked him why the Indians bound up the mouths of 
 these mummies, he only smiled and said they knew a great 
 many things that we do not understand and for that reason 
 call " superstitions. " 
 
 Mr. Watkins then took us to the house of an Indian woman 
 who sold furs, antique jewelry, etc. Walter bought some sloth 
 skins which are quite a curiosity with their fringey, silky fur 
 that appears to be hard and bristly until you touch it; Virginia 
 got a vicuna rug, and everybody did a little bargaining for the 
 funny dangling antique earrings which the old woman wore 
 herself, and was quite ready to part with, but as usual, not for 
 any reasonable sum of money! We saw some really good chin- 
 chilla skins but they were very expensive so we didn't deprive 
 her of them. 
 
 Our next visit was to a Church, where with some difficulty we 
 removed our hats as all women are obliged to do whenever they 
 enter a Church in Bolivia or Peru. A religiously inclined person 
 living in these countries would soon learn how to do with- 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 out hatpins and veils. The only things we saw of any interest or 
 value here were four massive old silver handmade candlesticks 
 that were within an inch or two of being as tall as I. They were 
 exceptionally handsome and Mary coveted them, but Walter 
 wouldn't even make inquiries as to whether they could be 
 bought or not, fearing to offend the Priest. Later on we dis- 
 covered that in many of the churches they were only too glad 
 to sell what they could; they have so many treasures that they 
 can almost always replace them. From here we went to the 
 Church in the Place San Francisco, which is one of the most 
 interesting we've seen so far. The decoration of the walls and 
 ceiling was very Indian in design, especially the stone carving. 
 There was a beautiful carved wood gilded pulpit and we found 
 a nice old chair hidden behind a door with the back and seat of 
 exquisitely carved and colored leather, the kind of work every- 
 body has been searching the country for, like the trunks Mary 
 and Virginia bought in Cuzco, but which is so hard to find. 
 
 We had a sudden realization that we were starving, having 
 had practically no luncheon, and so bought a lot of sardines 
 and soda crackers, chocolate and such things, and proceeded to 
 have a regular school-girl's feast up in one of the dingy hotel 
 rooms. 
 
 Later we dined at the Cafe de Paris, if you please, a very pro- 
 gressive restaurant in more than name, situated on the main 
 square. We were joined by Mr. and Mrs. Crum, Mr. Backus 
 and another man whose name I can't remember. We sat at 
 several small tables, being rather a large party by this time. 
 I shared one with Judge Babbitt, Walter and Dr. Allen. Walter, 
 the Judge and I waded very deep into an argument that lasted 
 during dinner, but needless to say no one was convinced, or 
 reached any conclusions; Dr. Allen was exceedingly patient 
 with us, but wouldn't give us his opinions. 
 
 Tuesday 
 April 1 1& 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 76 
 
 Tuesday After dinner we waited a more or less indefinite length of time 
 Apr ili it or ^ e electric car to take us to the station, as all the horses 
 were apparently overcome by the strenuous day we had given 
 them, driving up and down the steep streets again and again. 
 Alas! no car and not a carriage in sight. Eventually one hack 
 I can't call it anything else came slowly and sleepily along 
 and the "ladies" climbed into it and drove to the station. The 
 men walked but evidently not all together! We suspect Jack of 
 having had a flirtation on the way as he appeared only long 
 after the others, and not until Virginia and Mary in desperation 
 had headed a search-party! We went up to Alto in the same 
 little electric train; this time it pushed us up the steep winding 
 hill ahead of the engine. At the summit we found our train, 
 which is a thing of beauty and a joy forever! Compartments, 
 an observation car, even a bathroom all done in white 
 tiles ! Such luxury ! Everybody is overcome ! 
 
 Wednesday TT THEN we awoke this morning we found ourselves at 
 Apr ili 2* y y Machacamarca. The men went early over to the tin 
 smelter and the rest of us followed later on. It is only about a 
 mile away, but not very good country for walking; dusty and 
 dry and dirty, and very hot. We got on a flat car which was 
 drawn over the rails by a poor boney old horse prodded along 
 by a big burly Dutchman, who worked infinitely harder than 
 the horse, whipping him, shouting at him, getting off and push- 
 ing the car, and finally taking a great big piece of wood as long 
 and twice as heavy as a baseball bat, and beating the poor 
 creature on the flank! I couldn't quite bear that and protested 
 rather loudly. The Dutchman turned a blank look of surprise 
 on me, as much as to say: "It can't be my beating the horse 
 that you mind. He HAS to be beaten. What's the matter with 
 you anyway?" and I saw by his empty-faced expression that 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 77 
 
 it was utterly useless to remonstrate. He had been given a job 
 and he was taking pains to accomplish it in the only way he 
 knew. Had he been told to count the clods of red dirt on the 
 plain, it would never have occurred to him to do other than 
 commence at a given spot and continue until he was told to 
 stop or until he died of old age. I 've never seen a countenance 
 so lacking in "Why or Wherefore?" 
 
 Mr. Henderson took us all over the works which were very 
 interesting though somewhat crude and primitive, and terribly 
 dirty and unkempt. Indian women were shovelling ore and in 
 fact working everywhere at one thing and another with lazy 
 monotony, like a machine that is running down but that can 
 still be counted on to accomplish just so much, which is all that 
 is expected. They are paid about thirty-three cents for a twelve- 
 hour day, and only turn up when they feel inclined; apparently 
 the supply is greater than the demand (the women, not the 
 tin !). We spent an hour or more seeing it all and then came back 
 to the train for luncheon, leaving the men to lunch with the 
 Superintendent. Fortunately for the poor maltreated beast that 
 dragged us up to the mine, the road is slightly inclined and we 
 coasted all the way back. The country is rather like Arizona 
 desert lands: hot and dry and arid. The Indians are less bril- 
 liantly dressed than in most of the places we've been to so far, 
 but very picturesque none the less. 
 
 We played Bridge all afternoon, with a kind of side-show 
 going on outside the train at which we were much amused! We 
 watched an old Indian who was hammering the plaster off one 
 of the station buildings. He would strike a blow and then stare 
 at us for fully five minutes at a time before striking another. 
 Finally he ambled away to return with an enormously heavy 
 spike. It must have been at least ten inches long. With heavy 
 slow blows he finally drove it into the wall. We thought of 
 
 Wednesday 
 April 1 2& 
 
on South America with Fariations! From 
 
 78 
 
 Wednesday 
 Apr Hi 2 th 
 
 Thursday 
 April 
 
 course he was preparing to dynamite the building, but when he 
 had succeeded in driving it in all the way he carefully removed 
 his patched old coat, hung it up on the spike and then continued 
 his work. He seemed to be puzzled by our shouts of laughter, 
 but vaguely knew he had done something to amuse us, and was 
 rather pleased with himself on the whole! 
 
 EARLY this morning we arrived at Chocoya. Almost before 
 we were awake the men, except Walter who remained to 
 protect us, started off for the Oploca Mine. We followed after 
 luncheon. We got into funny old ramshackle wagons drawn by 
 four mules, and drove up the bed of a river all the way. Not a 
 sign of vegetation of any kind, as we are way up above the tree 
 line at an altitude of 12,500 feet. It took about three-quarters 
 of an hour to reach our destination. Each wagon had an out- 
 rider in the person of a small boy riding a mule. On the way up 
 we couldn't see the point of this, and wondered what the small 
 boy was destined to do, but on the way down the reason was 
 obvious enough, as the traces gave way at intervals, and for 
 that matter all the harness looked as though it would drop off 
 from minute to minute! The little outrider was a busy and very 
 important personage indeed! 
 
 When we arrived at the mine we drove up to the Superin- 
 tendent's house and two gentlemen came out to meet us. All 
 we could say was How do you do, and then there was an em- 
 barrassing silence; however almost immediately we discovered 
 that they both spoke French which relieved the situation some- 
 what, and everybody was able to "make conversation." They 
 took us through the mills, and explained a great many things 
 which they didn't succeed in making clear, but then of course 
 that was our fault; anyway it was well worth seeing. 
 
 We were all interested in the market, and one of the men 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 79 
 
 bought me a little wooden spinning top, which afforded me 
 what I fancy was an entirely disproportionate amount of 
 pleasure. 
 
 As soon as the men got back from their trip underground, we 
 sat down to the most elaborate repast imaginable. A table set 
 with every conceivable kind of food and drink, including cham- 
 pagne of course ! They were a most cosmopolitan group of guests 
 who sat around it too. An Englishman, a Frenchman, a Boliv- 
 ian, two Germans, and ten Americans. Each person could speak 
 about two languages, and I say "about two" advisedly but 
 no one could speak them all, so there was a kind of double plaid 
 conversation going on most of the time. The German, Mr. Bloch, 
 was the Manager of the mine and he and his wife lived there. 
 The others were visitors like ourselves. Mrs. Bloch was a cheer- 
 ful, competent little woman insisting that no one should pity 
 her because she lived in the wilds, as she loved it and was 
 neither homesick, unhappy nor even discontented. She had no 
 complaints of any kind to make. Her little home was as neat as 
 a pin and she took great pride in her old Indian silver, and some 
 other really good Indian things which she had collected. It was 
 perfectly evident that her sun rose and set in Hans Bloch, and 
 the fact that she had not a single white woman to speak to, or 
 that she was obliged to do all her own work because the Indians 
 were so dirty that she couldn't stand them, was something out 
 of her life entirely! 
 
 Mr. Marion, the Frenchman, confided to me that sometimes 
 relations were rather strained, on the occasions of his visits, 
 though the War or anything relating to the War was never 
 mentioned under any circumstances whatsoever; none the less 
 sometimes in the course of conversation one is unable with all 
 the tact in the world to refrain from mentioning things which 
 have such a close bearing on the War, that the opinions one airs 
 
 Thursday 
 April 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Thursday 
 April 
 
 Friday 
 April 
 
 or the conclusions one comes to, may in consequence seem 
 prejudiced. It really was a curious meal! We had ham and cheese 
 and caviar and potato salad, cake and chocolate, in fact every- 
 thing you can think of except clam chowder! This at three 
 o'clock in the afternoon while no refusal would be accepted 
 when you tried to decline to drink luke-warm champagne on 
 top of it all! I don't mean to be in the least unkind, as it was 
 offered in the most friendly and hospitable spirit imaginable, 
 and poor Mrs. Bloch had gone to all kinds of trouble to enter- 
 tain us and I am sure we were unusually appreciative, but 
 having just had our luncheon it was a little difficult to appear 
 to enjoy her feast in a fitting manner! 
 
 We left Jack, Mr. Aldrich and Mr. Hayden at the mine to 
 spend the night, as they were going underground again in the 
 morning, and we returned to our train. And while I am speak- 
 ing of the train, a word about the kitchen. On second thoughts 
 I don't think I shall describe it, as none of us who have walked 
 through it several times a day, could possibly forget it, and 
 there is no reason why any one who hasn't seen it should be 
 inflicted with a description. Suffice it to say that it is just as well 
 I have abandoned all idea of telling about it, as I couldn't pos- 
 sibly do it justice, even if I invoked all the Josselyn exaggera- 
 tions of a lifetime! 
 
 IT WAS freezing cold last night but very warm all day to-day. 
 While we are sitting here in the middle of the desert waiting 
 for the men to return from the mine there is little else to do but 
 to play Bridge, and that we have done steadily. Occasionally 
 our attention has been distracted from the Bridge table by the 
 arrival at the station of droves of llamas carrying sacks of ore 
 on their backs. They are only able to carry a surprisingly small 
 weight, strangely enough. At half past four or thereabouts the 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 men returned and we were soon on our way to Chuquicamata. 
 After dinner we changed trains, and everybody expressed regret 
 at leaving our nice comfortable quarters, as the new train was 
 very inferior; I am forced to admit that it was really very dirty, 
 and far from luxurious. The narrow gauge seemed narrower 
 than anything I 've ever seen, and the bunks narrower in pro- 
 portion. However a little discomfort can 't possibly annoy any 
 of us for more than a moment; we are enjoying it all too much 
 to let such trifles have any place in our minds. 
 
 WE ARRIVED this morning at the Guggenheim Copper 
 Mines. A number of men met us at the station and took 
 us up to the Guest cottage, where they had thoughtfully pre- 
 pared a very inviting-looking breakfast. We had had our tea on 
 the train however so could not be tempted to have another 
 meal quite so soon! We then met Mrs. Guggenheim and Mrs. 
 Potter, who proved to be an old school friend of Mary's, and 
 motored with them up to the Mine. Unfortunately it was lunch 
 hour by that time, and the steam shovels were not working, so 
 we really saw nothing except a great Culebra-cut-mountain of 
 rock. The whole place is the most barren, desolate desert-like 
 country imaginable, not a growing thing of any kind, shape or 
 form. They have built a great number of galvanized iron houses 
 for the employees. The interiors are finished nicely in wood, the 
 rooms are large and comfortable with high ceilings and open 
 fireplaces, big bath rooms, everything one could wish for, but 
 one would need all that and more too, to be happy there: dry, 
 rocky, barren hills and desert as far as the eye can reach. It 
 seemed to me like a great big ugly "behind the scenes" of the 
 world. 
 
 The men joined us for luncheon at Mr. Hellman's house, 
 where Mr. and Mrs. Guggenheim and Mr. and Mrs. Potter are 
 
 81 
 
 Friday 
 April 1 4'b 
 
 Saturday 
 Apri 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 Saturday 
 Apri 
 
 Sunday 
 Apr ill 6 th 
 
 staying during the Hellmans' absence in New York. We had a 
 most delicious luncheon, and no one could possibly have been 
 more cordial or more hospitable than Mrs. Guggenheim; and 
 she needn't have been at all, because she was quite pretty 
 enough to be rude if she liked as far as I was concerned; I should 
 still have enjoyed seeing her about. I trust I've made that 
 compliment very plain, for she was just as charming as she was 
 pretty. 
 
 The house was delightful such a relief to the eye to actually 
 see something green growing in the patio after the barrenness of 
 "all out doors"! 
 
 We went through the Hospital this morning, which was large 
 and surprisingly full. Apparently pneumonia and rheumatism 
 are the most prevalent illnesses, though of course many of the 
 patients are the victims of mining accidents. The Hospital is 
 very well equipped, and they are fortunate in having been able 
 to procure an excellent physician and surgeon, who lived a 
 great many years in Mexico and who speaks Spanish, besides 
 having an enviable comprehension of the prejudices and pecu- 
 liarities of the Indians. Mrs. Guggenheim told us that he had 
 succeeded in gaining their absolute confidence, which I imagine 
 is no easy matter. 
 
 This afternoon we played a little sleepy Bridge, and later some 
 of these energetic people had the courage to dance to the music 
 of a Victor, though how they could, in such heat, remains a 
 mystery to me! Later we had tea and at about seven returned 
 to our train. 
 
 EST night was the last of our train journey. Jack, Judge 
 Babbitt, Mr. Hayden and Walter took a different train as 
 they wanted to see some nitrate fields about which " the ladies" 
 seemed to have no curiosity! Mary, Virginia and I didn't take 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 __ 
 
 off our clothes, and some of us put our mattresses on the floor 
 of our four-bunk compartment where we slept in preference to 
 the beds! We arrived at Antofogasta at half past six in the 
 morning, where we were greatly surprised to see Tom Bishop, 
 who had come down to the train to meet us. Not having had 
 our clothes off all night, and having spent a bathless ten days, 
 our one idea was to get to the Cyprus, so without a glance at 
 Antofogasta we made a bee-line for the docks, jumped into a 
 little boat and were soon on the yacht. I shan't even attempt 
 to describe our elation at regaining our own delightful bedrooms 
 and best of all our own baths! It seemed too good to be true. 
 Mary and Virginia went to see the town a little later and 
 brought Tom Bishop back for luncheon. The others returned 
 from their journey to the nitrate fields a short while after, 
 bringing with them Mr. Marion and Mr. Arce who are going to 
 make the trip to Valparaiso with us. 
 
 IT WAS quite rough last night and for that matter has been 
 anything but smooth or calm all day to-day. Mr. Marion 
 and Mr. Arce, after a brave but very brief attempt to play 
 dominoes and be perfect guests in every sense of the word, dis- 
 appeared below in a pale-faced condition that was really pitiable 
 to behold! They tried so hard to be gay and debonair, and to 
 assure us that they took the trip so frequently that it didn't 
 bother them at all, but their looks and eventually their actions 
 belied them, and they were obliged to give in, and acknowledge 
 they were just plain old-fashioned seasick! 
 
 Every one spent the afternoon in packing, as to-morrow morn- 
 ing early we land in Valparaiso, where we leave the Cyprus 
 while she sails through the Straits of Magellan. How I wish it 
 were possible to be in two places at once and go around the 
 continent and cross the Andes, as well! 
 
 Sunday 
 April 1 6* 
 
 Monday 
 Apri 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Tuesday 
 
 THIS morning we got into a heavy fog belt and neither 
 land nor sun could we see. The Cyprus meandered slowly 
 up and down and around in circles; twelve o'clock, and one 
 o'clock, but still no chance of getting into port. We were very 
 discouraged, especially as some Gloom said these fogs often 
 persisted for days without a break! Shades of Panama quaran- 
 tine ! However, at about two-thirty the fog suddenly lifted and 
 the city of Valparaiso lay just before us. We lost no time in 
 running into the harbor and were on shore by four o'clock. 
 Mr. Wagner met us and suggested that we motor out to Vina 
 del Mar for dinner which was an excellent idea as there is appar- 
 ently nothing whatsoever to do or see in Valparaiso. We got 
 into Fords, naturally, and were precipitated to Vina del Mar, at 
 the usual breakneck speed. No power of persuasion has any 
 effect on these speed maniacs who drive these Fords. They whirl 
 you in and out and around and through traffic in a way that 
 suggests nothing but a horrible nightmare! 
 
 Vina del Mar is quite a pretty place, about ten miles from Val- 
 paraiso, principally a residence district for the latter city, I 
 imagine. It is full of villas with nicely kept gardens, and the 
 whole place is prosperous looking. We drove first out to the 
 race course, which is extremely pretty and gay looking with its 
 terraces and great masses of flowers everywhere. Then we had a 
 perilous drive along the quay. I say perilous, because it was 
 quite dark by this time, and the Ford Racer had no lights, and 
 twice we stuck in the sand on side streets, and once the road 
 just deliberately ended in a twenty-foot drop where it is appar- 
 ently intended that some day a bridge shall be built, but where 
 there wasn't even a barrel or a stake to warn you to desist from 
 continuing on your way. Dr. Allen may laugh and he may chaff, 
 but that Ford driver had just enough confidence in his pesky 
 little car to try a running leap over that hundred-foot span ! I am 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 perfectly convinced that this was exactly what he was planning 
 to do, when I made myself heard, which in itself took some 
 courage, as the Doctor was all on the side of the Chauffeur! 
 I watched him back in semi-circles, on a readjust wide enough 
 to make them as it so happened, from a Safety First position 
 taken up on my two feet! 
 
 Incredulous as it may sound, we actually did get back to 
 town, and Mr. Wagner took us to the Club a man 's club, but 
 where they very hospitably allow ladies to come. It is quite an 
 impressive building, and looked very comfortable and pleasant. 
 We all met at the hotel for dinner. Here there was a huge court 
 filled with trees and shrubs, lovely standard begonias and hibis- 
 cus and all sorts of bright-colored flowers. The dinner was deli- 
 cious but we literally ate and ran, as we were obliged to catch 
 the eight o'clock train for Santiago. It only took us four and a 
 half hours, which passed very quickly as we played Bridge all the 
 way. As always, every possible comfort not to say luxury was 
 provided, and we had a whole car to ourselves to lounge about 
 in and do as we pleased. Every now and then it occurs to me 
 what these four- or five-hour night journeys would be like, if one 
 had to sit up straight in a seat beside some disagreeable stranger 
 or a snoring man, etc. 
 
 This is a great fruit country and at every station there was a 
 long line of women selling baskets of delicious grapes and fruits 
 of all kinds. The railroad exacts that they shall wear a uniform, 
 consisting of a complete overdress of white cotton, and a white 
 cotton hat which gives them somewhat the appearance of 
 trained nurses, especially as their costumes are all immaculately 
 neat and clean. At eleven-thirty we arrived in Santiago. I was 
 very much impressed with the railroad station, a splendid build- 
 ing in itself and made to look particularly attractive by great 
 tubs of bamboo and plants of all kinds, scattered about in the 
 
 Tuesday 
 April 1 8* 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Tuesday 
 Apr Hi 8* 
 
 Wednesday 
 April 
 
 ugly corners. It is undoubtedly true that a fine station gives the 
 visitor an excellent and lasting first impression of the city be- 
 yond it. If it pays to advertise, and I believe this is universally 
 and unquestionably acknowledged to be the case, a handsome 
 station ought to do more than almost anything else for a city. 
 In the inevitable Ford, we drove up to the Oddo Annex Hotel, 
 where a sleepy porter took us up in a slow old-fashioned lift to 
 our rooms. No clerk, no register, nothing! However we were all 
 much too tired and sleepy for any comments; on the contrary, 
 were more grateful than I can say for the absence of red tape! 
 
 A PERFECTLY beautiful day ! We had a delicious luncheon 
 2~\. at the Restaurant Santiago, and afterwards Mr. Wagner 
 took us out to the house of a collector to see his things, and to 
 buy anything if we saw anything we wanted. In other words, he 
 was a dealer. But such a funny place! The man's name was 
 Senor Graz, and he has a collection indeed! a collection of 
 everything under the sun, from rare books, furniture, china, 
 ornaments and just plain junk, to monkeys, parrots, dogs and 
 cats which are all housed in the court and make a most ungodly 
 noise! He had a few nice things but nothing we wanted, only 
 it was interesting to know that it was possible for any one to 
 gather together so much truck. Senor Graz himself was very 
 uncommunicative and seemed indifferent as to whether any- 
 thing were bought or not. Mr. Wagner said that he had an 
 absolute mania for collecting, but that he was very rich indeed 
 and quite independent of any need for selling. Somehow I 
 strongly suspected that upstairs, tucked away, he probably had 
 some really good things that would be worth seeing and that 
 the mass of junk we saw was just the weeding out of his real 
 collection. 
 
 Next we drove up to the Santa Lucia Hill, a high rocky hill 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 in the very centre of the city, which has been made into a park. 
 The road winds round and round with ivy-covered walls on one 
 side, and at the top is a great terrace from which one gets a 
 beautiful panoramic view of the city beneath. An insignificant 
 admittance fee is charged which goes toward the upkeep and 
 which seems to be a very good idea, as the whole park is as 
 clean and neat as a pin, though abominably German in its 
 landscape garden treatment! Lots of quite useless balustrades 
 and summer houses, etc., but nothing can spoil the beauty of the 
 view from the top. They have an out-of-door moving-picture 
 screen and a restaurant, which are crowded every night in good 
 weather; certainly nothing could be more delightful than out-of- 
 door entertainments on such nights as to-night. I wonder if the 
 weather is often like this? 
 
 From Santa Lucia we drove to the Race Track. The track it- 
 self is all beautifully kept turf, the gardens are a mass of lovely 
 flowers and the grandstand is charmingly decorated with win- 
 dow-boxes all in bloom. In the distance high mountains loom 
 up on every side; they were mostly covered with snow and were 
 all pink-tinged with the rays of the setting sun. It is really a 
 very beautiful spot. Many of the horses were being exercised 
 and they were splendid-looking animals. 
 
 We all met at the American Embassy where Mr. Johnson had 
 invited us to have tea. Mr. Johnson had lunched with us and 
 also Mrs. Corbin to whom we had been given letters. The 
 Embassy is quite sumptuous, situated on a corner of the Ala- 
 meda. There were some fine old pieces of furniture in it, but we 
 were all too tired to be very enthusiastic over anything but a 
 restful cup of tea! We dined well but not very wisely at the 
 Santiago Restaurant: the most delicious bors d'oeuvres made 
 chiefly of small alligator pears, and afterward lobster such as 
 you've never tasted, and /raises de bois with nice thick cream. 
 
 Wednesday 
 April i ^b 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 88 
 
 Thursday 
 April 20 th 
 
 WE MADE a late start this morning and tried to do a little 
 shopping but rather unsuccessfully as every store we 
 went into was more anxious to close for the noon hour, as is 
 their custom, than to sell anything; they practically pulled 
 down their galvanized iron shutters in our very faces! So, in 
 desperation, we got into Fords and went up to Santa Lucia Park 
 where we were delighted to find a restaurant open, as we 'd been 
 told it was closed for the season. There was a paved court with 
 pepper trees around it and a nice dripping fountain in the centre 
 and with a little persuasion we had a table brought out and 
 lunched there. Certainly our experience in Santiago as to 
 weather was an agreeable one. It was delightfully warm and 
 balmy and coolly refreshing at the same time. We had a very 
 nice luncheon and everybody enjoyed eating out-of-doors. 
 
 Walter made us climb five or six hundred steps cut jaggedly 
 out of rock, to the top of the hill where there is a summer house, 
 and from which the view of the surrounding country is really 
 magnificent. Afterwards we did a little more shopping and then 
 drove again out to the Race Course and through the Park, 
 which is lovely, but which appeared to be deserted. The only 
 sign of life was a troop of soldiers who were drilling in a great 
 open space that looked like a children 's playground. 
 
 We dined at the Santiago Restaurant again, and after dinner 
 every one went to the Embassy, and later to meet Jack who 
 returned at midnight from Braden. 
 
 Friday ^ I ^O-DAY after luncheon we drove all over the city. The 
 April 2i" J_ most interesting thing I've seen in years was the Good 
 Friday religious pageant that took place in the streets. We 
 drove down one of the cross streets, where we had an excellent 
 near view both of the procession and of the people. There was 
 a succession of enormous floats made to represent great boulders 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 with figures of Christ, the Virgin Mary and many of the Saints 
 grouped against them. They were carried on the shoulders of 
 fifteen or twenty men who staggered under the weight. Each 
 float was followed by a long procession of men and boys carry- 
 ing lighted candles. The crowd stood around in hushed awe: 
 the women all in black with thick black shawls over their heads 
 and every man with his hat in his hand and with bowed head. 
 It was really most impressive, such religious fervor so proudly 
 displayed. We went into the Cathedral and several other 
 churches, with services going on everywhere of course on 
 account of its being Good Friday. The churches were all 
 crowded with men and women kneeling reverently on the stone 
 floors. 
 
 We drove up and down nearly every street in the city, and saw 
 lots of interesting things, but were disappointed to find the 
 Musee des Belles Arts closed. At half past six we went to the 
 Embassy for supper, which Mr. Johnson and Mr. Summerland 
 had very kindly asked us to, and where we spent a most enjoy- 
 able hour before taking our train. Every one was sorry to leave 
 Santiago. 
 
 WHEN we awoke this morning we were already at Santa 
 Rosa de Los Andes, and at half past six we trooped up 
 to the hotel about a half-block from the station, for our break- 
 fast, and then got into another narrow-gauged train for our 
 journey over the Andes. It was hardly surprising to find much 
 of the way was a cog road as in many places it was steep enough 
 for a funicular. The grandeur of the mountains is impossible for 
 me to describe; I don't know how, frankly, to give even any 
 idea of it. We wound around through them and along the Rio 
 Blanco, named thus because its course is so steep that it froths 
 and bubbles all the way, and succeeds in being a river of foam. 
 
 Friday 
 April 2 1" 
 
 Saturday 
 April 22nd 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 90 
 
 Saturday 
 April 22 nd 
 
 Sunday 
 April 23 rd 
 
 The cable is laid underground. Every now and then a little 
 stone house stands where they relay the mail in winter. Last 
 year there were sixty feet of snow over the road for I don't 
 know how many weeks! Of course there are a great many short 
 tunnels and some snowsheds, but surprisingly few. On a huge 
 boulder we saw painted in great white letters, "The Blood of 
 Jesus Christ Cleanseth All From Sin." It astonished, horrified 
 and disappointed me. I suppose the people who do that kind of 
 advertising do it in good faith, but it always seems sacrilegious 
 and I didn't look for it in this wonderful country. I immediately 
 looked about for a "Can't Bust 'em" overall or a "Budweiser 
 Beer" sign, but these people were seemingly more appreciative 
 and more discriminating. I would much rather believe the lat- 
 ter than to believe that they were too thrifty to place a sign 
 where the returns wouldn't justify the expense of setting it up! 
 During the day we saw at least half a dozen such verses from 
 Scripture, in German, in Spanish, English, French, etc. When we 
 got to Puenta del Inca we all got out of the train to see the 
 natural bridge with the river flowing under it. There is quite a 
 big establishment of sulphur baths here. 
 
 A kind of foggy mist covered the very tops of the peaks so we 
 were only able to get a dreamy imaginative kind of glimpse of 
 Aconcagua. I liked it that way. In fact every moment of the 
 day was one full of pleasure. 
 
 At eight o 'clock we arrived at Mendoza and got on the third 
 and last train. The accommodations were excellent very com- 
 fortable compartments and a dining-car as good as any to be 
 found. 
 
 EST night was the dustiest and dirtiest bit of road I've 
 ever travelled over, but it rained in the early morning and 
 the rest of the way was delightful. From the time we awoke 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 9 1 
 
 until our arrival in Buenos Aires at a quarter to four we 
 travelled through country as flat as flat can be for as far as the 
 eye could reach: rich farm lands, always dotted with cattle; 
 everything looking tremendously prosperous. That trip is really 
 a fitting introduction to the immense wealth of the country. 
 
 We came direct to the Plaza Hotel which is under the direc- 
 tion of the Ritz Hotel companies. It is quite close to the station, 
 and is beautifully situated opposite a large park filled with 
 trees and flowers. We had all dreamed of Buenos Aires, and 
 could hardly wait to see it, but nothing could be enjoyed after 
 our dirty railroad trip until we had had a lengthy visit from 
 the hairdresser and the manicure; this occupied all the time 
 until dinner, which we had upstairs. I may remark that to have 
 your hair washed and waved and your nails done costs the 
 perfectly unheard of sum of twelve dollars and this in American 
 dollars; no Guatemala money here! 
 
 Mary, Walter and the Doctor went joy riding in a low-neck 
 hack but the rest of us were too weary to do anything but revel 
 in our newly and expensively acquired cleanliness! 
 
 WE DROVE all over the city to-day, and it made me so 
 homesick for Paris that I wanted to weep! It began with 
 my breakfast this morning, when they brought me delicious 
 cafe au /ait, hot crescents and fresh butter scraped up into little 
 shell shapes! The waiter on our floor proved to be an old friend, 
 having been for years at the Palace Hotel in San Francisco; he 
 knew us and all of our friends and was much interested to hear 
 what had become of the people he had been accustomed to 
 serve. He was really a great comfort as he had lived in South 
 America long enough to have acquired some knowledge of 
 Spanish, and he was able to help us out on more than one 
 occasion. 
 
 Sunday 
 
 Monday 
 Apri 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Monday 
 April 24 th 
 
 Tuesday 
 April 25 th 
 
 I've never seen such irreproachably kept property: streets 
 that are positively clean enough to eat off of, parks where not 
 a fallen leaf is allowed to remain on the ground; beautiful flowers 
 and trees everywhere, on either side of the streets. The houses, 
 the shops, even to the very selfsame kiosks where the papers are 
 sold, and many other such things, are just Paris, absolutely 
 Paris. The park is quite like the Bois, even to the little island in 
 the centre of the lake. We didn't see many people out driving, 
 as it was obviously too early for that in a country where every 
 one takes siestas. The public buildings and especially the resi- 
 dences are magnificent. These last are architecturally very like 
 the most beautiful private houses in Paris; many of them have 
 lovely gardens, though I don't imagine these are at their best, 
 as it is just the beginning of winter here now! To me the whole 
 city is one of immeasurable beauty. 
 
 We dined in the hotel, and afterward a man whom Walter 
 introduced to Virginia as Mr. Iguana, and whose real name was 
 Mr. Tiscornia, took us all out to the Yacht Club and afterward 
 to see a famous Spanish dancer. 
 
 WE STARTED out on a shopping expedition this morning 
 in the Florida, the Rue de la Paix of Buenos Aires. The 
 shops were delightful, full of beautiful things but prohibitively 
 expensive. I've never seen handsomer jewels anywhere; how- 
 ever, the jewels and the objets d' art and everything else could 
 only be had for exorbitant sums, so we spent a great deal of 
 time but very little money! The shop-keepers were most amia- 
 ble and quite willing to show their wares even though we didn't 
 show much sign of buying them; in fact we spent most of the 
 time abusing ourselves and each other for not having bought 
 lots of things we had seen in Cuzco and Arequipa which are 
 about ten times more expensive here. Virginia and Jack were 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 looking at a silver box in an Antique shop in the Florida, and 
 asked the man if he had any larger ones. He shook his head but 
 proceeded to tell them that he knew where he could procure a 
 wonderful old silver trunk which he himself had bought from 
 a monk and had since sold to a dealer in Santiago. He brought 
 out two photographs of it and it proved to be the identical box 
 Jack himself had bought in Santiago! Of course the dealer was 
 tremendously interested when he heard that the box was in 
 Jack's possession and proceeded to tell him how valuable it 
 was and how lucky he was to have found it. 
 
 They do not allow any carriages or motors to drive through 
 the Florida between the hours of five and seven, and almost the 
 entire population of Buenos Aires walks up and down the 
 middle of the street looking into the shop windows and princi- 
 pally eyeing each other! Why they choose this narrow street 
 for their promenade I can't imagine when they have so many 
 beautiful parks. Walter and Doctor Allen wouldn't miss it for 
 worlds ! 
 
 We dined at the Plaza and went afterward to an Italian Opera 
 with Senor "Iguana." The music was very pretty and it was 
 quite enjoyable on the whole, but a pressing engagement made 
 it impossible for us to remain for more than two acts! Walter 
 and Mary gave a Tango Exhibition in the tea room of the 
 Plaza with supper afterward. Mr. Tango, a funny squareish 
 little fat man, wore with his Tuxedo, a decollete shirt with a 
 Rah-Rah "Sport" turned-over soft collar, which caused some 
 amusement in the party. Miss Tango was rather a pretty but 
 very buxom lass, dressed all in black silk and lace with which 
 she wore high black walking shoes! They danced very well 
 together in spite of the peculiarities of their costumes, but not 
 so well as when "Clarence Tango" danced with either Virginia 
 or Mary. I was fearful for awhile, lest the lady should "draw 
 
 Tuesday 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Tuesday 
 Apri 
 
 Wednesday 
 April 26 th 
 
 from her garter a dear little dagger" in jealous rage when 
 Clarence left her holding up the wall, and danced with the beau- 
 tiful strangers, but her eyes only flashed and she pouted; that 
 was all! After supper Mr. Iguana took us to "La Prensa" 
 Building and we went over it from garret to cellar, which was 
 extraordinarily interesting, particularly as it was about two 
 a.m. and the paper was literally in the throes of publication. 
 As an institution and an organization it is most remarkable. 
 There is a philanthropic side doubtless an excellent advertise- 
 ment but certainly a very humane way of advertising that is 
 unquestionably a splendid thing for the poor. The paper em- 
 ploys the best Physician, Lawyer, Music Master, etc., that it is 
 able to procure, whose services are absolutely free to the poor, 
 for that matter to any one desiring them. These men all have 
 offices in the building, which is immense and besides there 
 are banquet halls, recreation rooms, a gymnasium and a library; 
 every year prizes are distributed to the persons teaching the 
 greatest number of men and women over a certain age, to read 
 and write in Spanish. How much more intelligent entirely 
 aside from any advantage the Prensa may glean from it is this 
 method of advertising, as opposed to that of giving prizes for 
 the person who guesses some idiotic puzzle. 
 
 Every possible advantage is given to the man, woman or child 
 who cannot afford to pay. Most assuredly they subscribe to the 
 paper, but it seems to me to be a very fair cooperative scheme, 
 indeed an admirable one. 
 
 WE SPENT the entire morning at the Zoological Gardens 
 where they have a very fine collection of animals in a 
 beautifully kept park. There is a turtle too big to describe, 
 though if I could depend on my photographs I might be able to 
 prove he was as large as a baby elephant. I Ve never seen any- 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 where such an enormous rhinoceros and hippopotamus.There were 
 wonderful birds too: eagles, condors and lots of others whose 
 names I don't know, and a kangaroo ran at large in the gardens 
 amongst the peacocks and innumerable other uncaged birds. 
 
 After luncheon the Aldaos called and took us to see the Opera 
 House which is very magnificent. Unfortunately the season is 
 not yet open, so we were unable to hear any opera, but the 
 building itself is well worth seeing. The parquet is built so that 
 machinery installed beneath it lifts the floor to the level of the 
 stage and makes it possible to give balls of state there. Then 
 there is a driveway right through the ground floor which does 
 away with the horrible necessity of standing out on the side- 
 walk in the cold or rain to wait for your carriage. The foyer is 
 very elaborately decorated; perhaps just a little too ornate, but 
 it is hard to judge a place like that in the unaccustomed day- 
 light, peopled with half a dozen tourists, instead of seeing it in 
 a blaze of electric light and peopled with beautifully dressed 
 women, the music, the jewels, the magnetism of crowds. We 
 drove out to the Golf Club for tea. It is a sweet little club house 
 and the Golf course looked very inviting; beautifully kept as is 
 everything in Buenos Aires. We had a second tea with the 
 Count and Countess Minotto at the Plaza.. The Aldaos were 
 there also and one or two other people. It was very enjoyable. 
 
 We dined at the Cafe de Paris to-nightwild duck and other 
 good things and we owned the orchestra, or rather Walter did! 
 He finally sent for the conductor and asked him to play some 
 American ragtime, and the next thing we heard were strains of 
 "The Last Rose of Summer" ! Later we went to a great open-air 
 court where we saw a very exciting game of pelota played by 
 some extremely skillful professionals. I adored it! Walter didn't 
 find it very interesting on this particular occasion! "The Last 
 Rose of Summer" had made him homesick, and home he went! 
 
 Wednesday 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Thursday , A AHIS morning we went shopping with the Aldaos: to 
 A Paquins, Cheruits, Jennys and Callots. If that isn't 
 enough to make any one homesick for Paris! As it is just the 
 end of summer here, the new winter clothes haven't yet arrived 
 from Paris so no one could find anything to buy but lingerie 
 and babies' clothes which were all very fine and dainty just 
 like Paris things. We lunched at the Race Track. It is too lovely 
 for words. Beautiful buildings and gardens, so gay and festive 
 with its gravelled terraces and coquettishly awninged benches 
 and brilliantly colored canvas parasols. The whole place was a 
 mass of flowers and had an air of prosperity which seemed 
 unusually apropos! We did a little betting but of course didn't 
 know anything much about the horses, so after we'd lost a 
 little and won a little we left, to do more sightseeing. We went 
 to the Museum which is installed in what was the Argentine 
 Building at the Paris Exposition. I really can't imagine why 
 they didn't leave it in France unless Paris refused, which is 
 more than likely, as it is an eyesore. Just at present they are 
 engaged in painting it every color of the rainbow. It is the only 
 hideous thing I've seen since we arrived here. It contains an 
 original Rodin, two Corots, and quite an interesting series of 
 panels representing the conquest of Mexico, done on canvas 
 and inlaid with mother-of-pearl dated in the fifteenth century. 
 There are a few other good paintings too and a lot of copies of 
 famous statuary, but nothing of extraordinary interest. Later 
 we tried to get into the Cathedral, but it was closed, which it 
 seems always to be for some unknown reason; we have tried 
 any number of times to visit it but invariably without success. 
 Judge Babbitt gave a very elaborate dinner at the Jockey 
 Club this evening; I Ve never seen such a lovely fragrant mass 
 of pink garden roses as were on the table! We had the most 
 delicious dinner imaginable in fact as one might know would 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 be the case with anything Judge Babbitt undertook, it was 
 perfect in every detail and we all had a particularly nice time. 
 
 WE WENT out with Mrs. Eidelberg to see the Rawson 
 Hospital this morning. The Chauffeur apparently had 
 not understood the order as he took us miles off to a 
 suburb in the opposite direction but we didn't care as it was 
 interesting to see another part of the city. When we finally did 
 reach the Hospital it was quite late but every inch of it was 
 visited. I sat on a bench in the hall-way most of the time, as 
 there is just nothing in the world I can think of that is so repel- 
 lent and depressing as to walk into wards of sick and suffering 
 people and have a doctor casually point to one after another of 
 the patients and callously announce what is the matter with 
 them. The hospital buildings are very modern and scrupulously 
 clean, situated in a lovely garden. Mrs. Eidelberg had luncheon 
 with us at the Plaza and afterward took us to see the Paz-de- 
 Ganza house, which she had succeeded in getting permission 
 for us to visit. It is without doubt one of the most exquisitely 
 furnished houses I have ever seen in my life: full of priceless 
 things, but not the least bit formal or stiff; on the contrary, 
 exceedingly homelike and livable. Nearly everything in it is 
 French. The tapestry furniture in the drawing-room, the rugs, 
 the carved jade bowl, the porcelains and old silver in the din- 
 ing-room were only a few of the treasures. A cousin of Madame 
 de Ganza was going to be married there that afternoon and in 
 the drawing-room they were making preparations for the 
 ceremony. A huge chou of white tulle was pinned up on the 
 wall over a kind of console and great filmy yards of it swept to 
 the floor. This may sound grotesque but I can assure you it was 
 lovely. Besides, it would have been almost impossible to put 
 anything in that room and have it look otherwise. Two large 
 
 97 
 
 Thursday 
 April 2Jtb 
 
 Friday 
 April 28* 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Friday 
 April 28* 
 
 Saturday 
 April 2^ 
 
 baskets of flowers were on the floor, but that was as far as the 
 decorating had gone. The petit salon upstairs and the bedrooms 
 were charming, exquisite curtains and bedspreads from 
 Stevens in Paris I am sure, all too French and dainty for words. 
 The house is one of three built into one enormous mansion, 
 so to speak, and each one opens into a great round centre hall 
 of marble. Then there is a very large drawing-room, just being 
 done over, and a banquet hall, which are used when the three 
 families congregate. The carved woodwork and the furniture in 
 the banquet hall had been ordered in Italy twenty years ago 
 by the father of the present owner and had only just arrived; 
 they were installing it: magnificent work doors that went up 
 to the ceiling, with silver locks and handles, very ornate but 
 entirely in keeping with the grandeur of the rest of the apart- 
 ment. This room opened on a balustraded terrace overlooking 
 the garden, which was entirely shut in from the street by two of 
 the houses. Miss Harding, a very nice English woman, who 
 appeared to be a sort of companion, showed us over the house. 
 It was all so lived-in, that it was almost embarrassing to go 
 over it; there was even a nice big dog roaming comfortably 
 about the hall! 
 
 Later we took carriages and went down to the pawn-shops by 
 the water-front, but couldn't find a single thing to buy, so we 
 walked slowly back to the hotel, where we got a motor and 
 drove out along the Avenue Alvear and left cards on the Aldaos, 
 Senior and Junior. To-night we dined downstairs in the Caf of 
 the hotel and remained at home that is, all of us except Walter 
 and the Doc, who made a "tour of the town" accompanied by 
 Senor Smith, who, we are told, "knows his Buenos Aires!!!" 
 
 w 
 
 IE LUNCHED to-day with Dr. Aldao and his family at 
 their house and had an extremely nice time. Mrs. Aldao, 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 who is an invalid, didn't appear until after luncheon, so there 
 were just their two daughters, their son and daughter-in-law and 
 the Mayor, whose name has escaped me though I sat next to him, 
 and found him very agreeable. They were all so delightfully 
 hospitable that it would have been impossible to feel otherwise 
 than happy amongst them. After luncheon we motored out to 
 see an estancia, which took about an hour and a half over rather 
 a jolty road. The park was lovely: beautiful trees, particularly 
 the bamboo. Wherever there was a sheltered spot a little shrine 
 was to be seen showing the evidences of their religious devo- 
 tion which we were told is very extraordinary. We then went 
 down to the stables where they dragged a lot of valuable cattle 
 out of their stalls by a ring through their nose, for our inspec- 
 tion. Every beast had a groom, and undoubtedly there must 
 have been a reward for the youth who kept his charge in the 
 best condition though it was impossible to pick a choice, but 
 the boys looked with a critical eye from one to the other, some- 
 times with satisfaction and sometimes with dismay. One of the 
 young sons of the house came racing down to the stables in a 
 motor to ask us to return with him for tea, which we did. The 
 family was in deepest mourning they nearly always are and 
 two sad-faced old maids presided at a table long enough to seat 
 thirty or forty people, in a great dark, gloomy dining-room. 
 Every piece of furniture was covered with silver and bronze 
 trophies, won in the cattle exhibits, and the walls were hung 
 with plaques and medals. Of course we were most appreciative 
 of their hospitality and all that, but it was a trying kind of tea 
 party, as the two daughters spoke no English and the young 
 sons who did were rather too shy to say much. Then there 
 were four or five Englishmen who had obviously come as we 
 had, to see the place and the cattle, and who grouped them- 
 selves on the other side of the table and didn't speak at all. 
 
 Saturday 
 April 29^ 
 
IOO 
 
 on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 Saturday 
 April 2 p th 
 
 Sunday 
 April 
 
 Monday 
 May i^ 
 
 I rather fancied they hoped we would think they were Argen- 
 tines and could only speak Spanish so that they would not have 
 to bore themselves by making conversation with "merely 
 Americans." However it was soon over and when some one 
 suggested going to see the swimming-pool, every one welcomed 
 the interruption. The pool was an unusually nice one and I was 
 sorry it was too late to do more than look at it. There is abso- 
 lutely no twilight here at all and our journey back to town was 
 in the pitch dark. We dined upstairs in true Argentine fashion 
 at about ten o'clock! 
 
 SUNDAY to-day, and a rather lazy one. We lunched at a 
 restaurant called The Sportsman and then took hacks and 
 drove up and down the water-front. We were all much inter- 
 ested in a suspension bridge, which is moved across the river by 
 a kind of trolley. I suppose a suspension bridge is the last thing 
 in the world to call it, and if "Cappie" should ever read these 
 words he will properly admonish me for my ignorance, but I 've 
 never seen such a thing before and haven't the remotest idea 
 what name to give it. It was rather fascinating to watch, 
 because it worked so smoothly. Later we tried once again to 
 see the Cathedral, but still without success. It annoys me 
 because it upsets all my previous statements of Catholic 
 churches being always open to the wanderer. Apparently I am 
 wrong once again! We came back to the Plaza and played 
 Bridge and dined upstairs, which is our favorite thing to do, and 
 dined late, about half past nine or so, which is also a favorite 
 thing to do, and I think the only sensible hour! 
 
 Cyprus arrived this morning from her perilous journey 
 through The Straits, which was secretly a great relief to 
 everybody's mind, as we had begun to wonder just where she 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 was. We went down to the dock this afternoon and were assured 
 by Tom, one of the stewards, that we hadn't exactly missed 
 any good weather by not making the journey with her, but 
 aside from that, they had had a marvelous trip. Of course 
 nobody would admit that there was anything to speak of in the 
 way of weather they never do on shipboard! Just a big sea one 
 night and they were running fairly fast and a pretty high wave 
 struck her, but it was all quite insignificant really, though the 
 railing on the bridge was smashed, and we were reluctantly 
 shown where some beams were very decidedly bent! 
 
 We made our daily "shop to shop" expedition in the Florida, 
 examining and pricing things everywhere and then sailing 
 majestically out without buying anything, with an air of " noth- 
 ing is good enough for us!" simply because the prices were 
 above and beyond anything reasonable, but the climax was 
 reached when Walter went into a pharmacy and asked for some 
 listerine. After the clerk had brought out every size and shaped 
 bottle imaginable, Walter from force of habit just said no, they 
 wouldn't do at all, and we all marched out into the street! 
 
 MARY, Virginia, Walter and I walked up the Avenida del 
 Mayo and back to the Hotel through the by-streets in 
 hopes of finding a shop with something in it, valued at less than 
 pearls, but with no success. All the shops which have in them 
 anything you might possibly want are in the Florida and their 
 wares might just as well have been locked up in vaults as far 
 as most of us were concerned. The scale of prices seems quite 
 ridiculous. We pay four dollars to have our hair shampooed 
 and four dollars to have our nails manicured; five dollars to 
 launder a plain linen dress without a plait or a frill on it. 
 
 This afternoon we visited the Chamber of Deputies, the 
 Senate, the Library, in fact all of the Capitol we were permitted 
 
 Monday 
 May jst 
 
 Tuesday 
 May 2nd 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Tuesday to see. It is very handsome and impressive, both inside and out, 
 y 2n and well worth seeing. We also went to a house where there was 
 an excellent collection of old furniture and other antiques for 
 sale a branch of a shop in Florence but the man dealt exclu- 
 sively in European things, which, though very beautiful, no one 
 was tempted to buy in South America. 
 
 Later we went back to the Cyprus to find that already every- 
 thing had been put in perfect order and she looked her charming 
 self. We were actually so homesick that we wanted to remain, 
 and only went back to the Plaza with the greatest reluctance. 
 The solitary little goldfish, Chan, was paddling around in his 
 green bowl on the table in the music room, and there were 
 flowers everywhere. 
 
 Wednesday \ FTER luncheon we gathered together our goods and chat- 
 Mayy j-^ te j s an( j came on board anc [ it; seemed like home again, and 
 a happy home-coming too. Virginia had invited all the people 
 we'd met and who had been so nice to us in Buenos Aires to tea. 
 We arrayed ourselves in lingerie dresses and "picture hats," 
 duchesses indeed! All the Aldao family, the Marchesi and the 
 Marchesa de Salamanca, Count and Countess Minotto, Mr. 
 Quintana, Mr. Tiscornia and his fiancee and a lot of members 
 of the Yacht Club who couldn't speak a word of English, which 
 was rather trying, but amusing on the whole! The tea party 
 was a great success and Virginia was showered with presents: 
 baskets of flowers, boxes of cakes, Argentine Tango Victor 
 records and even two goldfish in a bowl, sent down by the 
 proprietor of The Plaza, to say nothing of a magnificently 
 embroidered sofa cushion presented by our waiter, one time of 
 the Palace Hotel. Every one was tremendously enthusiastic 
 over the Cyprus, needless to say. Mr. Quintana stayed for dinner 
 and the Minottos are going with us as far as Montevideo. We 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 all played Bridge and danced on deck and had a gay and 
 delightful evening. We sailed a little after eleven to-night and I 
 for one was sorry to go. 
 
 THIS morning we arrived in Montevideo. A lovely day; we 
 went on shore at eleven or thereabouts and were met by a 
 flock of reporters who photographed us half a dozen times 
 before we left the dock! Mr. Hayden, who had arrived yester- 
 day, met us and we drove in motors all over the city and out to 
 Pocitos where there is a big hotel, a Casino and a lot of villas. 
 I can 't say these last are very pretty, as they are mostly deco- 
 rated with colored tiles and hideous art-nouveau scrolls of 
 plaster and iron. There was one house particularly, with a 
 bright blue roof and blue decorations all over it, which was too 
 terrible! Even the high iron grille and gates were painted in the 
 same brilliant electric blue. They are too dreadful to look at, 
 but there is something rather ingenuous and childish about it 
 all, which strikes one as being just a little pathetic. 
 
 We lunched at the Hotel and afterward drove out to see the 
 Penitentiary, which is a model of everything that is clean and 
 sanitary. The prisoners are treated, as far as one could observe, 
 in a manner calculated to restore their self-respect if they ever 
 had any to lose, or to maintain it at least. Their cells are large, 
 light and scrupulously clean and every square inch of the place 
 it is huge is equally so. The prisoners are made to work 
 without exception, allowed to follow whatever trade they know, 
 or if they have none, are taught a new trade, and they actually 
 appear to be interested in what they are doing: carpentering, 
 tailoring, mattress-making, shoe-making, brush-making, etc. 
 They are obliged to take a shower bath every day, and on the 
 whole look more like a lot of grown-up school boys than prisoners. 
 No one is sent to the Penitentiary for less than two years or for 
 
 Wednesday 
 May jrd 
 
 Thursday 
 May jib 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Thursday 
 May {Ik 
 
 Friday 
 
 Saturday 
 May 6 th 
 
 more than forty. We saw one man working in the brush factory 
 who 'd been there for twenty years, or rather had been imprisoned 
 that long, as the present building is only six years old, and he 
 looked as hale and hearty and cheerful as any one you could 
 wish to see. He was a murderer. Ordinarily, a prison is a ter- 
 ribly depressing place, but I am obliged to admit that this 
 one seemed almost too good for any one who deserved prison 
 at all. 
 
 We went then to the cable office where Virginia found a tele- 
 gram saying Marguerite Moffitt had a son, born yesterday. 
 Every one was equally interested and pleased at such good news. 
 At five o'clock we came back to the Cyprus; the Minottos and 
 the Director of the Prison, who was most anxious to see the 
 yacht, returned with us for tea. We were all sorry to say good- 
 bye to the Minottos; they are both charming. 
 
 At half past six we were once more on our way. 
 
 THE most perfect day imaginable a smooth blue sea and 
 a blue, blue sky and not too cool and not too warm. It has 
 been heavenly. Very early this morning a boat came up quite close 
 to us and asked who we were. We told her and she darted off 
 again without returning the compliment. Spark said he thought 
 she was an English Cruiser. We thought for a moment we were 
 going to have an adventure, but none was forthcoming! 
 
 Everybody revelled all day in the luxury and delight of being 
 once again settled in this happy little home which we all adore! 
 
 NOTHER cool day and another blue sea and blue sky. 
 Ve were in sight of land nearly all day but there have 
 been no adventures. A wonderfully brilliant sunset; there have 
 been so many, but one can never be blase about them, they are 
 really extraordinary! 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 THIS morning early we sailed into the harbor of Santos. 
 A more beautiful entrance to a city it would be difficult to 
 imagine. Unlike the west coast which is cold and gray and bleak 
 and without much vegetation, in fact with none at such places 
 as Mollendo, both sides of the banks are lined with a tropical 
 close green growth of palms, ferns, trees, shrubs, grass and 
 flowers. What is called Rio Sao Vicente is a narrow winding 
 inlet which surrounds the island of the same name. Most pic- 
 turesque are the houses dotted on the hillsides, especially one 
 old place that looked like a small fortress with two great stone 
 terraces and a tiny round tower on the extreme corner of each 
 one. At Santos we got directly into motors and went to the rail- 
 way station where arrangements were made for a special train 
 to take us to Sao Paulo, and while we were waiting for that to be 
 got ready, we took a hurried run around the town. As it was 
 Sunday, all the shops were closed but the streets were filled with 
 people, and as it was the first opportunity I Ve had of observing 
 the Brazilians, I was rather glad to see them "en masse" so to 
 speak. The town is quite picturesque the parks and squares 
 all abloom with bright-colored flowers and such green greens as 
 only grow in a country which is frequently deluged with rain. 
 Up on a hill above the city were a hospital and several schools, 
 all situated in the midst of gardens, with stone steps and ter- 
 races leading up to them. 
 
 At one o'clock we took the train for Sao Paulo. I believe the 
 railway is supposed to be one of the best run in the world. The 
 first few miles wind through a thick tangled jungle of green 
 tree-ferns, palms, banana trees and a luxuriant growth of climb- 
 ing plants, which would make a passage way of even a few yards 
 into the 'forest quite impossible. There are wonderful wild 
 flowers, particularly a shrub covered with purplish bloom, and 
 some white flowers that look like oleanders except that they 
 
 Sunday 
 May ftb 
 
JBtOt0S on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 106 
 
 Sunday 
 May jtb 
 
 grow on a kind of lily stem in the marshes, also great quantities 
 of orchids and innumerable other sorts of growing things that I 
 do not know the names of. 
 
 Soon our engine was shifted around to the back of the train 
 and we picked up a cable to climb the steep grade, about 2000 
 feet in six miles to the top of the plateau. On one side of the 
 tracks the precipitous wall above us was almost solidly lined 
 with rock to prevent slides and to take care of the drainage from 
 the many brooks and springs. On the other side was a marvelous 
 view of the valley below. Unfortunately it was raining and 
 rather foggy and misty as well, so we could not get the full 
 benefit of it, but perhaps interrupted vistas are more beautiful 
 and more satisfying in the end than a great panoramic view on 
 a clear day; in any event I couldn't wish for anything more 
 lovely than our trip up the mountain, for it was nearly a moun- 
 tain, to Alto da Serra. 
 
 We arrived in Sao Paulo at about half past two and thought 
 the first thing we would do would be to motor around the city. 
 Some of us were mistaken about that! The entire floor of the 
 motor Virginia and Mary were in dropped out on the street! 
 They got out of that one with no serious damage done and pro- 
 ceeded to get into another. They came around the first corner, 
 and smash! bang! a collision! Eventually they did manage to 
 find one that was whole and driven by a Chauffeur who knew 
 his business. The one I was in couldn't go at all, so we finally 
 left it, and when the Chauffeur was paid, he flew into a terrific 
 rage and refused to be pacified. He followed us down the street 
 shouting at Mr. Tooker and Smith and finally got three police- 
 men who said they would take Smith to the Lock Up if he 
 didn't pay the Chauffeur what he demanded. It was absurd, as 
 he wanted to be paid for several hours and we had not gone a 
 hundred yards in his motor, but eventually he was paid to be 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 gotten rid of. Our entire lack of any knowledge of Portuguese 
 left us powerless to dispute him or to explain to the policemen. 
 
 We went all over Sao Paulo, up one street and down another. 
 It has the appearance of a very large and progressive city. Here 
 too, of course, the shops were closed, but the Sunday crowd was 
 very much in evidence everywhere. The same little narrow 
 streets wind through the business section of the city as we've 
 seen all over South America but the newer part of Sao Paulo has 
 very wide streets, well paved and clean, with trees planted on 
 either side. The architecture is a nightmare: decorations in 
 scrolls and art-nouveau designs tacked on everywhere, and 
 many of the residences have oil paintings elaborately framed in 
 wood done on the plastered walls of the porches. They are just 
 too awful to describe or to remember, but the gardens are 
 lovely. Bougainvillea and a scarlet vine with a fuschia-like flower 
 prevail, but hibiscus and roses and zinnias are plentiful and any 
 number of varieties that are quite foreign to me. 
 
 There wasn't really anything particular to see in Sao Paulo, 
 so after we had driven around the city, we started back. It was 
 only about half past five but it was already quite dark so that it 
 was impossible to see any of the wonderful scenery on our 
 return, which we would all have liked to see a second time. 
 
 There was an excellent opportunity coming back in the train 
 to view eleven friends sound asleep, their necks twisted in the 
 most suicidal positions ! One wonders how it is possible to remain 
 unconscious of such horrible discomfort, while wishing one had 
 learnt the knack of sleeping in the daytime oneself! 
 
 NOT quite so smooth this morning as during the last 
 three days. We reached Rio de Janeiro at three o'clock, 
 and one must admit cheerfully that no one has ever exag- 
 gerated the beauties of the harbor which we hear so much about 
 
 Sunday 
 May jib 
 
 Monday 
 May 8 tl > 
 
108 
 
 on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 Monday 
 May 8 th 
 
 all our lives. It is magnificent! The bay is surrounded by high 
 rugged mountain peaks and the city is built on a succession of 
 low hills. The hills on the opposite side of the bay are covered 
 with a thick green growth of trees and shrubs and vines. We 
 were all interested in seeing the peak just at the entrance to the 
 bay which is called the Sugar Loaf. There is a cable from which 
 hangs a little cage, stretching over to another rocky summit. 
 Tourists make this perilous journey without turning a hair it 
 seems, but it didn't appeal to any of us though we watched the 
 cage go back and forth with great interest; it looked about as 
 big as a bird cage from the yacht! The view from the summit 
 undoubtedly must be magnificent but on the other hand I don't 
 see how anything can be much more beautiful than just the 
 harbor as we see it here from the Cyprus. 
 
 We drove around the city which spreads over an immense 
 area of ground and were accompanied by a Mr. McGovern who 
 tried to tell us a few things about Rio. Somehow I have an idea 
 he wasn't particularly successful in his attempt, though no one 
 could have been more willing and agreeable. We went first out 
 along the docks and to the Museum, which is in a beautiful park 
 and was once occupied by the Emperor. There is a wonderful 
 avenue of bamboo where the trees planted on either side meet 
 overhead and every variety of tropical plant and tree. Then we 
 drove down the famous Avenue of Royal Palms which are so 
 tall that a child could certainly be persuaded to believe they 
 reach Heaven, through the centre of the city and out along a 
 boulevard which skirts the bay all the way. Trees are planted in 
 the middle, with a drive-way on either side. However I would 
 recommend that any traveller who doesn't want to be disil- 
 lusioned about the beauties of Rio, look constantly out toward 
 the bay, or else over the hills, for the architecture of Rio is 
 beyond words awful. I can 't begin to describe the hideous villas 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 along the ocean, etc., but the natural beauty of the surroundings 
 makes the rest seem so insignificant, that it doesn't matter! 
 
 We returned to the Cyprus to dress and went back on shore to 
 dine with Mr. Morgan, the American Ambassador, in a res- 
 taurant under the Opera House. This last is supposed 
 to almost exactly resemble the grand opera in Paris. The 
 exterior certainly recalls it very plainly, but we did not go inside, 
 and I can't believe it is like Paris, not after having seen how 
 they decorate their buildings! Amongst our dinner party were 
 Mr. Morgan, Mr. Ruder, Mr. McMillen, Mr. Benson and Mrs. 
 Kinsolving, and before dinner was over Bishop Kinsolving 
 joined us. There were some girls who danced and sang rather 
 indifferently, but towards the end of the evening some one spied 
 a dark-eyed girl sitting at a table with an octaroon and passed 
 the word around that they were unusually good maxixe dancers 
 and perhaps could be persuaded to dance for us. With very little 
 urging they were prevailed upon to do so. It was a bit raw I 
 must confess, but of course it was interesting to see a native 
 dance done by the natives themselves, and no one seemed less 
 shocked or for that matter to enjoy it more than the Bishop! 
 Mr. Morgan sent them over a bottle of champagne with the compli- 
 ments of the party, and with that, little Miss Maxixe tears off 
 the petals of the roses in the centre of her table and showers 
 them on Judge Babbitt's head and promptly proceeds to dance 
 an encore! 
 
 Every one was up betimes this morning as our stay here is 
 very short. We took the most beautiful motor drive I've ever 
 seen or heard of, up the mountain back of Rio and in and out 
 and through and around it. The road was splendid and the 
 views perfectly wonderful. As for the woods, I never would 
 have believed anything like them existed. The most marvelous 
 green, green things! Not a dry leaf or twig to be seen anywhere! 
 
 Monday 
 May 8 th 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 I IO 
 
 Monday It was more like a kind of dream picture of a perfect garden 
 y 8t than anything else. Such lovely wildflowers and flowering 
 shrubs! It was difficult to realize that they were all wild. We 
 stopped at a little clearing on one of the hills and walked over a 
 short way to see some gigantic rocks just tumbled in a heap 
 apparently, but so colossal in size that one could only wonder 
 what upheaval of nature had ever landed them there. It looked 
 as though even an earthquake would be powerless to accomplish 
 such a feat. There was a little kiosk near by in which an old 
 woman sat, selling bananas; they were not more than four or 
 five inches long but the most delicious I've ever eaten. They 
 were called "little bananas of gold. " I shan't divulge the num- 
 ber Jack and I ate or you would never believe that we had lived 
 to tell the tale. 
 
 We finally ended our drive at the American Embassy, a new 
 building out on the boulevard overlooking the water, and which 
 is most attractive in every way. Mr. McMillen invited us to 
 lunch with him at the British and American Club, where amongst 
 other good things we had the most delicious shrimps I Ve ever 
 eaten anywhere. 
 
 Afterward we went shopping but could not find anything we 
 really wanted, which was most disappointing. We saw some very 
 fine Brazilian diamonds, particularly quantities of uncut and 
 unpolished ones, but on the whole the shops were unattractive. 
 When it comes to shopping, Walter in some miraculous way 
 seems to find all the desirable little things to buy. He discovered 
 collections of real butterflies to take home to the children, and 
 artificial flowers made entirely of feathers which look infinitely 
 more natural than the very finest French ones, excellent photo- 
 graphs and various kinds of little souvenirs we had all searched 
 the city for unsuccessfully. We came back to the Cyprus rather 
 early, as Virginia had invited Bishop and Mrs. Kinsolving to 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 tea. This evening Mr. Morgan and all of his dinner guests of 
 the night before and also Mr. Lanel dined with us. We danced 
 afterward in the music room for awhile, but it was too warm to 
 be enjoyable, so the dancing continued on deck. 
 
 THIS morning we went to the Cathedral and to a little 
 Chapel built beside it, both of which were very interesting. 
 There were some lovely candlesticks and vases of silver on the 
 altar, which was also of silver, and much of the actual Church 
 decoration was very beautiful. Next we went to the Market, 
 which is very large and extraordinarily clean. After a great deal 
 of bargaining Walter bought a golden-colored marmoset for 
 Virginia, two paroquets for Mrs. Aldrich and four "chinchilla" 
 marmosets to take home to his children. There was a woolly 
 gray and black monkey that I longed for, but it seemed wholly 
 unpracticable for me to accompany him all the way to Cali- 
 fornia! When these important purchases were concluded we 
 went to buy Victor records of the latest popular air called "Meu 
 Boi Morreu," which means "my ox is dead," and is synonymous 
 with "I'm hard up" or rather "broke"! The idea is obvious, 
 but then everything I've written so far has been obvious, so 
 why should I hesitate to give the meaning at this late date? 
 After everything discouraging that can happen, has happened 
 to the poor farmer, his last means of existence is his ox which 
 ploughs the ground and hauls his harvest to the town, but when 
 his ox dies, he gives up! 
 
 We ran across Mr. McGovern, and Jack asked him to bring 
 his daughters out, as they were very anxious to see the Cyprus. 
 As we left the dock all the charming people we had met in Rio 
 were on the quay to say good-bye with flowers for Virginia. 
 We sailed right after luncheon, which means about three o 'clock. 
 It is just as beautiful sailing out of the Harbor as sailing in. Of 
 
 Monday 
 May 8* 
 
 Wednesday 
 May iQtb 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 112 
 
 Wednesday 
 May iot 
 
 Thursday 
 May utb 
 
 Friday 
 May 12 th 
 
 Saturday 
 May i^tb 
 
 course you hate to leave it all behind you, but somehow it 
 makes a peculiarly definite impression on your mind I think 
 almost more definite than any place I have ever seen in my 
 life. It seems to say: you will probably never come here again 
 and as long as you appreciate it so much you may take it with 
 you. It's strange. 
 
 It was decidedly rough crossing the bar but we were too 
 diverted by the saluting of the Fort, the British patrol vessel 
 and the battleships to say nothing of the beauty of the harbor, 
 to think about minding anything so commonplace as a little 
 pitching! But the pitching continued on, long after we had left 
 the bar way behind, and I went to a Stag dinner party to-night! 
 
 OUITE rough all day. No adventures: Most of the day was 
 spent in playing with the live stock and finding comfort- 
 able corners for their cages, etc. Virginia has named her marmo- 
 set Rio. He is very tame and affectionate and we are all crazy 
 about him! 
 
 THE tiniest marmoset died to-day certainly not for want 
 of care! I think the poor little creature died of sea sick- 
 ness as it has been rather rough ever since we left Rio Janeiro. 
 Walter did everything he could think of to keep it alive, and 
 the Doctor was frequently appealed to. Walter held it in his 
 lap most of the afternoon so that the sun would shine on its 
 poor little frail rack of bones but it was destined to die without 
 a doubt. Rio, the golden-haired, is as lively as a cricket and 
 twice as friendly. 
 Stag parties continue for luncheon and dinner! 
 
 JQ created all the diversion and excitement and anxiety 
 any one might wish for to-day ! He terrified us, one and all, 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 by scampering along the edge of the railing and finally disap- 
 pearing through the deck drain at the stern of the yacht. We 
 were afraid to even go and look over the railing for fear he 
 would take a frightened leap into the sea. Finally Jack screwed 
 up his courage and discovered that he was clinging to the top 
 of a slippery screw-head from which dangerous spot, right over 
 the water, it was impossible for him to move one way or the 
 other. He was rescued, of course, but a more terrified little 
 animal never drew the breath of life. At that, I don't think he 
 was more frightened than we! He is back in his cage and there, 
 it is planned, he will remain until we are on dry land. It has rained 
 on and off all day and I am forced to admit the weather is 
 abominable warm, heavy, sticky, wet, gray, gloomy and rough. 
 
 E?E wasn't worth living with poor little Rio in his cage, so 
 to-day he was allowed his liberty. He was up to suicidal 
 pranks, running up the ropes which lash the life-boats, and 
 getting into one of these, under the canvas where he couldn 't 
 be seen at all, or balancing on the outer edge to everybody's 
 consternation! Finally getting bored at not being noticed (no 
 one dared approach, for fear he'd take a flying leap into the 
 sea) he started down the ropes again with nothing between him 
 and the ocean. The boat gave a sudden lurch and off he fell, 
 but it so happened that at this moment he was just over a por- 
 tion of the gangway and he fell on the edge of the steps from 
 which he scrambled up and flew down the deck in a perfect 
 ecstasy of joy and excitement. Soon, very soon, Tom appeared 
 and announced that he had run down into the engine room and 
 was crouching behind the boilers where he could only live at 
 the most a few minutes, as the heat of course is indescribable. 
 Lampa, one of the crew, a pink-cheeked, blue-eyed boy who has 
 been nurse to the live stock ever since they were brought on 
 
 Saturday 
 May ijtb 
 
 Sunday 
 May I4.tb 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Sunday 
 Ma y I 4 t 
 
 Monday 
 May ijtb 
 
 board, made a perilous trip in search of him and finally came 
 up on deck panting for breath, holding Rio firmly by the tail, 
 with an expression of "Into the jaws of Hell I've been, but I 
 have him, by Golly, I have him" ! The miserable little sinner was 
 returned to his cage for the rest of the voyage, so 'twas said, 
 but ten minutes later Walter was putting a tin of fresh water 
 into his cage when out he flew, this time down the stairs and 
 into the music room. Once again he was captured and we all 
 hope for good. It really doesn't seem after this day of excite- 
 ment that anything could happen to him though! Jack is con- 
 vinced that if he were thrown overboard even, the wily little 
 creature would find some way of getting back on the yacht! 
 He certainly has more than nine lives, even if he is living them 
 quickly! 
 
 There was a marvelous rainbow this afternoon, the most 
 marked one I have ever seen: a perfect half-circle of flaming 
 color. Then a few hours later there was a double rainbow, 
 equally beautiful and a sight I had never seen before. It is thrill- 
 ing to see anything for the first time! Things one doesn't go in 
 search of, or, as far as we know, don 't come after us, but are just 
 there at some time or other for those who aren't blind, to see 
 and to feel. 
 
 T HAS been a fairly good day at least some sunshine, and 
 the drenching tropical rain which has poured down upon us 
 each day held off until late afternoon. We crossed the Equator 
 at half past three and drank Neptune's health in a variety of 
 drinks including creme de menthe, beer, ginger-ale, whisky-and- 
 soda and a gin-fizz! To-night we were obliged to slow down 
 quite a good deal because some salt water found its way into 
 the oil, or words to that effect, and we shall now be at least a day 
 late in Trinidad. 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 STILL plodding along though Jack seems to think he could 
 get off and walk faster than we are moving! The weather 
 is improving all the time and I don't believe any one really 
 minds the delay except Mary, who is apprehensive of the 
 boat's "waving"! Even the monkeys have minded their P's 
 and Q's. Another marvelous rainbow this afternoon; this one 
 cut the sky in half exactly overhead, while the two great arms 
 spread down and dipped their brilliant fingers into the ocean. 
 
 AT 9:10 this morning we stopped. One has a curious ominous 
 sensation when a boat stops suddenly in mid-ocean after 
 the continuous moving on and on and on. She grows to seem 
 almost alive when at sea. There was some trouble in the engine 
 room but it was repaired before noon and we were once again 
 on our way. 
 
 A Real Tragedy however was the loss of Rio! He was scamper- 
 ing around the deck having a wonderful time and causing us all 
 endless amusement by his funny antics when he suddenly dis- 
 appeared down toward the fo 'castle. Something or some one 
 must have frightened him badly for it seems that he took a 
 bounding leap overboard. There is of course always a humorous 
 side to everything and we had to laugh at Smith! Evidently 
 he must have learned in a training-school for domestics the 
 exact way in which a servant should announce to his mis- 
 tress the death of her pet monkey, for he walked solemnly 
 up to Virginia with perfect composure and in an undertone, 
 just as he might have asked how many guests there would 
 be for dinner, he said: "Madam, the monkey has just commit- 
 ted suicide off the fo 'castle railing," and having delivered his 
 information, walked swiftly and noiselessly away! Virginia 
 really felt terribly, as we all did; one gets attached to a helpless 
 little thing like Rio, and it seemed so unnecessary to have him 
 
 Tuesday 
 May 16 th 
 
 Wednesday 
 May i jib 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Wednesday 
 Ma y 7 7' 
 
 Friday 
 May igtb 
 
 Saturday 
 May 2O tb 
 
 die like that, but we could not help but be amused at Smith's 
 announcement. 
 
 Thursday A. DAY much like the rest a few light showers and a little 
 ./V rougher than usual this morning. No adventures. 
 
 A SMOOTH sea and a sunshiny sky. 
 
 THIS morning we reached Port of Spain in the Island of 
 Trinidad. It isn't so warm as I expected to find it, having 
 read in Masefield that it is known to mariners as Hell's Lid or 
 Number One Hatch! 
 
 The town is extremely picturesque, reminiscent in a way of 
 Panama. The streets are filled with East Indians and a great 
 many negroes as well. The East Indians are very unique-look- 
 ing, especially the women with their bright-colored skirts and 
 bodices and the white veil they almost invariably wear, which 
 they wind around the head and over the shoulder. Their arms 
 and ankles are covered with silver bracelets and their fingers 
 with rings. Many of them wear several necklaces of beads and 
 most of them had rings through their noses. Some just wear a 
 gold button fixed through one nostril. They are wonderfully 
 graceful in their walk and carriage and have a kind of languid, 
 listless, wistful expression that suggests a melancholy resigna- 
 tion to their fate. 
 
 There was nothing much to buy in the shops except this prim- 
 itive silver jewelry which Mary and Virginia purchased, and in 
 which we shall expect to see them decked at the next Mardi 
 Gras ball. 
 
 As we drove up toward the Hotel, we could not be other than 
 delighted with the town of Port of Spain. There is an enormous 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 117 
 
 sort of Recreation Park where they evidently play Polo and 
 have racing and all that kind of thing, with a beautiful avenue 
 all the way around it on which the nicest residences are situ- 
 ated. The Governor's house, in the middle of a large park open 
 to the public, is the most conspicuous building, but all the way 
 around are pretty homes in gay little gardens which are a per- 
 fect mass of blooming flowers. The park avenue seemed to be 
 filled with adorable pink-cheeked, blue-eyed English children, 
 dressed in white and hatless wherever they were playing in the 
 shade. It is so unusual to see children without hats and coats 
 and sweaters and leggings! These tots with their bare legs and 
 arms and little low-necked frocks, their curly blond hair, looked 
 more like story-book children than any I have ever seen. 
 
 When we reached the Hotel, a particularly nice one situated 
 on the avenue of which I have just spoken, we found all our 
 mail, which Mr. Tooker and Mr. Hayden had finally managed 
 to get out of the customs after a great deal of difficulty and 
 much red tape; the very first line since Panama. Of course 
 most of our letters had been written two months and more 
 previously, but it was nevertheless very gratifying to have 
 actual news from home telegrams are exceedingly unsatis- 
 factory as sentimental messages! 
 
 After luncheon we went for a motor drive. The car in which 
 Mr. and Mrs. Tooker and I found ourselves was driven by a 
 young negro boy of twelve or fourteen years. He seemed to 
 know less about running a motor than an iguana when we 
 started off, and before we'd gone a hundred yards I'd gladly 
 have seen a mosquito change places with him! 
 
 However the boy who was driving the other motor started 
 ours, and then climbed out of the driver's seat, while our 
 "Chauffeur" slipped into his place and proceeded to attempt 
 to guide the car; we soon found he couldn't even do that! We 
 
 Saturday 
 May 20 th 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 118 
 
 Saturday 
 May 2Q tb 
 
 did manage to get as far as the water-works which we stopped 
 to see. The woods were beautifully green and clean and fra- 
 grant, and there was a sweet little garden where the stream ran 
 through into the reservoirs below. A kindly old keeper picked 
 a bunch of flowers for us among which were exquisite gardenias 
 and the most fragrant and the largest jasmine I've ever seen. 
 The bamboo was as tall as the tallest trees and wonderfully 
 luxuriant in its growth everywhere. 
 
 We started on up the hill and stopped and started again, and 
 for the next ten miles our lives were in as imminent danger as 
 we could ever wish to have them even with suicidal intent! 
 The Chauffeur in the first car had to run back and start our 
 motor, and run it a little way a dozen times or more, so our 
 progress was slow to say the least. The first boy, rather than 
 crank the motor, which was apparently stiff, would back the 
 car down the steep hill, throw out his clutch and pick up his 
 engine that way; the twelve-year-old decided that this was an 
 easy method indeed, and the next time he killed his engine, off 
 came the brakes with a flourish and we of course swung around 
 in a half-circle to the very brink of a precipice. It makes me 
 dizzy to think of it! Really it was a most nerve-racking adventure; 
 especially so when we learned that our twelve-year-old had 
 never driven a motor in his life before this very morning! The 
 road was excellent and led through lovely tropical country, but 
 we couldn't spare very much time in seeing it. Our eyes were 
 glued on the road ahead, or shifted to gaze down at the precipice 
 beneath. Our misery only ended when we finally had a blow-out 
 and so had to climb into the other motor in which we got safely 
 back to the Hotel. Later we drove around the town again. There 
 are some marvelous spreading trees in the park enormous deep 
 dark green ones which look almost like the nearly unbelievable 
 big trees one sees in the old Biblical prints. 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 We all liked Port of Spain. It is quaint and picturesque and Saturday 
 decidedly oriental. I wonder if it isn't like some place in India? Ma J 2 tb 
 The English people and especially the great numbers of beau- 
 tiful blond English children with their Indian nurses made it 
 seem so. 
 
 There were some very large trees covered with flame-colored 
 flowers which I should like to know the name of, but no one 
 seems able to tell me. While we were looking at these and mak- 
 ing inquiries, we saw a number of carts drawn by donkeys and 
 filled with bales of grass stop at the edge of a brook, where the 
 driver would lift off the bales one by one, soak them in the 
 water, and then replace them in his wagon. We were much 
 puzzled at first as the grass looked too clean to need washing, 
 but seemingly there is graft, graft, graft everywhere, for these 
 boys sell their loads by the weight and of course by soaking the 
 grass in water they receive a great deal more money than they 
 earn. 
 
 We left the Quartermaster in Port of Spain as he developed a 
 bad case of typhoid fever on the way up from Rio Janeiro. It 
 seemed a long way from home to be left alone, but there was a 
 nice English Hospital and of course he is much better off there 
 than he would be anywhere else. Back to the Cyprus for dinner 
 and the night. 
 
 \ 
 
 THIS morning early we went over to Brighton where the Sunday 
 Cyprus tanks were filled with oil. Brighton has none of the Ma y 2ist 
 natural beauties of Port of Spain; in fact it is a desolate, barren- 
 looking spot and much warmer than the former place. We went 
 to the American Consul 's, Mr. Fowler's office, for a few minutes 
 until a motor was procured to take us to the Pitch Lake. It is 
 only a very short distance away from the docks, but terrifically 
 hot weather to-day made walking decidedly unpleasant; even 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 Sunday 
 May 21** 
 
 Monday 
 May 22nd 
 
 Tuesday 
 May 2jrd 
 
 so, we had the energy to walk back! The Lake is one of the very 
 most interesting things we've seen, one hundred and thirty- 
 five acres of asphalt. We walked all over it that is to say, over 
 a great deal of it, sometimes with difficulty as there are many 
 places where it is soft and oozy; in fact as you walk along, warm 
 sulphury water spurts up on your ankles, though the place you 
 put your foot on seems to be perfectly smooth and hard and 
 dry. There are small pools of water everywhere and several 
 times just while we were standing there, a little fountain of 
 water would bubble up for a minute or two and then disappear 
 entirely. They export two hundred and fifty thousand tons of 
 asphalt each year and twelve hundred barrels of oil a day. We 
 were at the dock all day but left toward evening to return to 
 Port of Spain for our clearance papers and some machinery 
 which had been left for repair. It is now half past eleven and 
 once again we are off on our journey northward. 
 
 DAY of blue sea and blue sky incomparable! No events, 
 adventures or remarks beyond great enthusiasm over the 
 weather and the joy and delight of being on the Cyprus! 
 
 THE very most perfect day imaginable! Water so blue as 
 to be unbelievable and wonderfully smooth! An ideal 
 day and an ideal night except it is just a tiny bit too warm; 
 however we seem all to be growing accustomed to it. 
 
 Wednesday \ NOTHER such day as yesterday. Everybody is happy and 
 May 24 th 2~\_ good-tempered, including the three parrots, two paroquets 
 and the three marmosets! 
 
 Thursday A ^VHIS morning every one was up literally at dawn and even 
 May 2^tb J^ on t j le Bridge at that time, as we sailed through the nar- 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 row channel into the Harbor of Santiago de Cuba. With the 
 great fortress on the right and the wonderful tropical green 
 foliage of the hills and the still blue water, it was a most impres- 
 sive and a very beautiful sight. It seems useless, in fact it would 
 be an effrontery on my part, to attempt really to describe the 
 situation of the castle or of Santiago itself, because it has been 
 done so often and sometimes so well. Suffice it to say that for 
 those of us who had not been here before, I believe it left an 
 indelible impression upon our minds. Immediately after break- 
 fast we went ashore. The city of Santiago struck me as being 
 very slovenly and rickety and unkempt. One or two noisy street 
 cars wind their way through the narrow dirty streets and here 
 and there is a modern building such as the Hotel, which is 
 decidedly pretentious, and the Cuban National Bank, but the 
 majority of them are tumbled-down, dirty and badly con- 
 structed and obviously never repaired. 
 
 We went into the large Church raised above the main plaza 
 on a kind of terrace but there was absolutely nothing of interest 
 in it whatsoever. Then we took motors, in this instance not 
 Fords, strange to relate! though we saw a ship-load of new 
 arrivals at the dock and went first up to El Caney where 
 there is a splendid view of all the surrounding country, includ- 
 ing San Juan, Kettle Hill, the city of Santiago and the entire 
 plain. A huge cannon rests on the very top of the hill called El 
 Viso, in the centre of ruined fortress walls, with a bronze plate 
 beneath it commemorating the deaths of the men who fell 
 there, and giving their names. 
 
 We had a youthful guide who spoke rather good English and 
 who told us a number of interesting things. He pointed out a 
 tree which grows all through the woods called a "pinon tree" 
 which it is said the Holy Cross was made of. In all good faith 
 and with an awed sincerity, he assured me you could break the 
 
 Thursday 
 May 2$ tb 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 122 
 
 Thursday 
 May 2$ tb 
 
 leaves off or cut the bark any day of the year save one, and a 
 kind of white fluid ran out of it; but that on Good Friday, if 
 you broke a leaf or cut the bark, the fluid was as red as blood. 
 He assured me solemnly, indeed reverently, that he himself had 
 tried it many, many times and it had always so happened. Be 
 that as it may, who is justified in questioning another where 
 such a faith as that exists? 
 
 Next we drove over to San Juan Hill where we saw the little 
 lookout tower and what is left of the trenches, which are almost 
 entirely filled in now, and a pathetic white-washed plaster 
 monument dedicated to the brave men who fell there. It was 
 all so absolutely unnecessary such reckless slaughter of human 
 beings against orders from headquarters, that one could not 
 but look on that miserable column with a mixture of anger and 
 resentment, supposedly a monument to courage and bravery 
 but almost as temporary as a bunch of cut flowers might have 
 been! I looked up quite suddenly at the sky just then. The sun 
 was directly overhead and around it like a halo was a perfect 
 rainbow of the most brilliant coloring, so the monuments don't 
 really matter after all temporary or everlasting! 
 
 It was very, very interesting to see battle-fields of contempo- 
 rary history of our own making; such things really are rather 
 rare. We learned a few things about Roosevelt that have care- 
 fully, probably deliberately, been left unpublished. He certainly 
 is far from a hero in the eyes of the Cuban ! 
 
 We returned to the Hotel for a sandwich; this rising at dawn 
 called for a bit of something, since we had all agreed not to 
 waste time eating luncheon. Needless to say we wasted almost 
 as much time getting one sandwich each, and not until we 
 threatened to leave without either eating or paying for them 
 did a slow, lackadaisical waiter stroll in with what proved to be 
 a bountiful supply! 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 Afterwards we drove up a mountain where we had a mirac- 
 ulous view, the city, the harbor, the ocean and miles and miles 
 of beautiful green hills and valleys. However, had I known the 
 price one had to pay, I never should have gone, for we drove at 
 a break-neck speed around right-angle turns on and on and up 
 and up and faster and faster, until the whole thing resolved 
 itself into a horrible nightmare, just too awful to be real and 
 yet right there, to be proved true all the while. I 'm ashamed to 
 say I burst into tears when we reached the top, though any sane 
 person would have "done their hysterics" on the way up, cer- 
 tainly not when safely landed and stopped even, on the summit! 
 However, no one but Judge Babbitt saw me make such an idiot 
 of myself, and I have reason to believe that everything I may 
 say or do is beneath contempt or criticism since the day he 
 overheard me tell the Mayor of Buenos Aires that I did not like 
 the city of San Francisco. 
 
 I never could gain any favor after that, though he didn 't over- 
 hear they never do, those wicked eavesdroppers what I told 
 the Mayor before and after that remark, about California in 
 general and San Francisco in particular. Of course secretly I am 
 flattered that any importance at all should be attached to my 
 personal opinion of anything. I am forced to admit my "crime" 
 is still an innocent one as far as I can see. But to go back to the 
 mountain, or rather to the plain, because I don't want to stay 
 up there another minute, I never had such an exquisitely beau- 
 tiful thing so completely and utterly spoiled for me in my life 
 before. We motored back to town and went into the San Fran- 
 cisco Church, the oldest one in Santiago. It was rather delight- 
 ful, sympathetic, most unpretentious, but friendly and kind and 
 with a really religious atmosphere just a quiet, consoling place 
 for sad hearts and weary. The little garden was a mass of 
 flowers with one tree in it, all abloom with tiny white blossoms 
 
 Thursday 
 May 2$ tb 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 I 24 
 
 Thursday 
 May 25'b 
 
 growing in thick clusters and as fragrant as tuberoses. I can't 
 imagine what it could have been. After another tour of the town 
 we regained the Cyprus at three o'clock and sailed about four. 
 It was far from an old story to see the fortress and the Harbor 
 entrance again. In fact we remained on the bridge so that we 
 should not miss a single glimpse of the beauty of it all. The 
 Pilot might have had an excellent excuse had he run us right 
 up on the shore! 
 
 The bay was full of jellyfish horrid things but there must be 
 lots of other kinds, for there were great numbers of little boats 
 out, with both men and women fishing. 
 
 And now we have some new passengers, fourteen little birds 
 in one big cage belonging to Mrs. Aldrich and one lovely gray 
 one, a mocking-bird perhaps? purchased by Rivington. 
 
 It was lovely all afternoon skimming along the coast, and the 
 sunset was almost equal to those on the Pacific. Mr. Hayden 
 remained in Santiago to take a train to some place or other on 
 business with the intention of joining us to-morrow. 
 
 The days on the Cyprus are getting fewer and fewer. Coming 
 to the end of anything really satisfying and good is very like 
 growing old unwillingly. Alas! you just can't stop! I really wish 
 there were only one way of returning to California, and that 
 was to retrace our journey step for step. 
 
 Friday f AHIS afternoon we arrived at Cienfuegas where we left the 
 May 26 th Cyprus while we go by rail to Havana. The town was less 
 
 attractive than most of those we've seen, although nothing 
 man can do can spoil the wonderful kaleidoscopic coloring of 
 these places. The houses are frequently painted pink, with 
 cobalt blue balconies and with red tiled roofs. Then there are 
 marvelous great shade trees, all one mass of flame-colored 
 flowers; negresses ambling about in a blaze of brilliant-colored 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 125 
 
 calicoes, their shiny faces lending just the touch of black which 
 every brilliantly colored picture needs, and the piercing tropical 
 sunlight acting like a magnifying-glass on the whole scene. It 
 almost takes your breath away! But I shall never see color 
 again as I saw it in the Market Place at Cuzco. I was convinced 
 that morning that if I opened my eyes I shouldn't see it ever 
 again. It was terribly unreal though so beautiful a contradic- 
 tion for which I apologize! 
 
 We drove all over the town in "coches." Many of the streets 
 are dirty and unpaved and there seemed to be no visible effort 
 made to beautify them, though Cienfuegas is the largest Cuban 
 sugar-growing centre. Apparently the town is developed only 
 in a commercial way. The drive along the water-front is the one 
 exception a smoothly paved wide road. We drove to the end of 
 it just at sunset and we shan't forget it, I think. 
 
 We dined at the Hotel very hurriedly, in fact with great 
 difficulty, having only about half an hour before catching the 
 train. However we scrambled through the meal and didn't 
 miss the train. It was a Special, which took us to Santa Clara 
 where we were due at ten-thirty. We expected to have to wait 
 there forty minutes or an hour at the most, for the through 
 train from Santiago which was to take us on to Havana. Alas 
 and alack! When we reached Santa Clara, a rumor spread 
 abroad that the train was very late, so we went across the street 
 to a little inn very much in the nature of a good old-fashioned 
 corner saloon, and here we waited and played sleepy Bridge 
 until one o'clock, when we heard a long loud whistle. The 
 Manager scurried in to say that we must hurry and run over 
 to the station or we would miss our train. We scampered about 
 and hastily collected our various belongings, only to find when 
 we reached the station that we had heard a Freight! When we 
 looked back across the street to our refuge, we found the Hotel 
 
 Friday 
 May 26 th 
 
on South America with Variations ! From 
 
 1 26 
 
 Friday 
 May 26 tb 
 
 Saturday 
 May 27'b 
 
 closed and dark. The man had fooled us without much effort 
 and had not lost a minute in locking his doors. We couldn't 
 blame him, though we were obliged to wait on the station plat- 
 form for another hour and a half! 
 
 i 
 
 THIS morning at half past ten we reached Havana and 
 went immediately to the Hotel Inglaterra where we found 
 quantities of very welcome mail. We lunched at the Hotel and 
 went afterward to the Corona cigar factory which was im- 
 mensely interesting. They employ eight or nine hundred men 
 and I don't know how many women. It is a perfect beehive of 
 industry. 
 
 In one of the rooms where the work of rolling cigars was going 
 on there was a man perched up on a high platform reading 
 aloud to the men. No women are employed to roll the cigars 
 but a very large number work in the rooms where the sorting 
 and stemming of the leaves and the labelling is done. They are 
 extremely well paid, especially the women. 
 
 Then we motored out to Vedado, a residence suburb, and from 
 there went on to a cemetery which was rather interesting. There 
 were two monuments which I found particularly so, or rather 
 the stories connected with them. One was in memory of four or 
 five young students, who had thoughtlessly scratched or in 
 some way slightly damaged a tablet, commemorating the death 
 of a Spanish officer. They were lined up in the Public Square 
 and shot by the Spaniards. The other was in memory of some 
 young boys who had volunteered to go into a burning ware- 
 house to help save the contents. Before allowing the boys to 
 enter, the firemen asked the owner who was standing by if 
 there was anything inflammable in it, and as this is against the 
 law, the owner of course said no. The boys, who were all sons of 
 prominent citizens in Havana, rushed in, and almost immedi- 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 127 
 
 ately the entire place was completely demolished by one great 
 explosion. It was then discovered that the man had been con- 
 cealing a large amount of high explosives in the building all the 
 time. 
 
 Our amicable toothless old Guide felt his calling conscien- 
 tiously and suggested we should walk over to see the bone-yard, 
 but no one felt any desire to do so. He was very apologetic over 
 the fact that the motor was not allowed to drive to where the 
 bone-yard was situated, and in another moment would, I feel 
 sure, have offered to bring the bone-yard over to us ! 
 
 We did some shopping later that is, we bought some fans 
 which were absolutely the only things we could find. This even- 
 ing Mr. and Mrs. Aldrich gave a dinner at the Yacht Club. It 
 was a lovely drive out into the country, about fourteen miles 
 away, and we dined out on the quay, which was delightful. 
 There must have been a hundred people or more doing likewise, 
 the women all dressed in light-colored evening gowns and the 
 men in hideous starchy ill-fitting white linen suits. And the 
 men here need all the prinking and dressing-up possible! They 
 were hopelessly unattractive, though the women on the whole 
 are rather noticeably pretty. For awhile we watched the danc- 
 ing in the Club House after dinner, but the previous night spent 
 in the Santa Clara station and on the noisy jiggling train made 
 us all rather too tired to enjoy a ball, so we went home very 
 early. 
 
 THIS morning we made a real tourists' expedition to 
 Cabana fortress and to Morro Castle. It is just a short 
 way across the ferry and up on a rocky promontory, which we 
 did very comfortably in motors. Cabana is a most fascinating 
 place, perfectly enormous. Our old Guide brought his small 
 daughter, aged ten or twelve, with him and she was apparently 
 
 Saturday 
 May 2^ tl > 
 
 Sunday 
 May 28 th 
 
on South America with Variations! From 
 
 128 
 
 Sunday 
 May 28* 
 
 accustomed to the trip, as she knew all the guards and garrison 
 men and they made a great fuss over her. She was, besides, quite 
 familiar with all the stories of the place, which she told in her 
 own little way, and a most entertaining way it was. 
 
 We tramped all over, and had various points of interest 
 explained, such as the wall against which the Spaniards were 
 stood up to be shot, and that against which the Cubans were 
 stood up to be shot by the Spaniards, the idea being that the 
 Cuban prisoners should not even share the honor of standing 
 where the Spaniards met their death, even though it were a 
 traitor's death! There are no words in which to express the 
 Cuban hatred of these Spaniards that they can't even speak of 
 without sneering at. We saw chambers of solitary confinement 
 and death, and all kinds of torture cells. It was truly horrible, 
 most of it. 
 
 From Cabana we went over to Morro Castle and nearly left 
 one of the party behind incidentally! Mrs. Tooker was singled 
 out by a young military student who paid her very marked and 
 devoted attention! He took her familiarly by the arm and 
 swung her down a flight of narrow steps and nothing but her 
 remarkable agility saved her from countless broken bones! We 
 climbed up to the height at the very top of the castle to see 
 where the prisoners used to be thrown into the sea to be 
 devoured by the sharks; their arms and legs were firmly bound 
 with strong rope and then down they were flung, into the deep 
 water two hundred feet or more below the cliff. We crawled 
 along the grass to peer over the edge and saw any number of 
 sharks waiting expectantly. They must have long lives or else 
 some mysterious means of handing down their traditions and 
 memories, for they showed no sign of swimming off to find their 
 food elsewhere. It was a grewsome sight. In fact the whole place 
 seemed to reek of crime and torture. 
 
San Francisco to New York on Board the CYPRUS 
 
 We lunched at the Hotel and afterward everybody went to a 
 cock-fight. Fortunately I can 't describe it, as I didn 't go, and as 
 this record is only meant for those who did, I imagine that they 
 wouldn 't care to be reminded of it particularly! Mr. Tooker and 
 I went to the Cathedral which lacks a great deal in actual 
 beauty of architecture, but is full of historic interest and of 
 treasures. For many years the body of Columbus was interred 
 there. In the Sacristy they showed us the most beautiful and 
 wonderfully rich ecclesiastical treasures I've ever seen anywhere 
 in the world: marvelous old silver and innumerable gold chalice 
 cups and crosses heavily jeweled; great emeralds and sapphires 
 and rubies set in the gold. It was positively dazzling. Then there 
 were gold-embroidered vestments with pearls and emeralds 
 worked into the design each one as big as my thumb nail! 
 They were far more magnificent than anything I 've ever seen 
 in Europe. 
 
 We left Havana about six o'clock and sailed at dark. It is our 
 last stop, alas! 
 
 A LOVELY day to-day; cooler though sunny and smooth 
 and blue. I can't bear even to think of the day after to- 
 morrow! No sea. No ports. No Cyprus. Just hateful, bustling, 
 banal New York. 
 
 A 
 
 HEAVY short rain this morning and then a perfect day. 
 I never knew before how blue the water could be. 
 
 OUR last day! We were close to the coast all afternoon 
 and were even able to recognize some of the sea-side 
 resorts with the aid of the spy-glass. Every one was busy pack- 
 ing and gathering together all their various belongings. We 
 anchored very late this evening and I am ready to weep with 
 
 Sunday 
 May 28^ 
 
 Ma y 2 9 l 
 
 Tuesday 
 May 30 th 
 
 Wednesday 
 May 3 1^ 
 
on South America with Variations ! 
 
 130 
 
 Wednesday 
 May jist 
 
 Thursday 
 June I" 
 
 the blues. Of course I could rhapsodize over this trip in a last 
 resume, as a fitting ending to this " just a little more than a line 
 a day" journal, but I won't. I '11 spare you that bore at least. 
 
 EARLY this morning we landed at the New York Yacht 
 Club. We all parted friends and only said au revoir, as we 
 expect to dine with Mr. Hayden to-morrow night and continue 
 to see each other until the break for California is made. 
 
 I suppose I should be thanking Jack on my knees for having 
 given me so much pleasure instead of whining and groaning that 
 it is all over! But I can't help it; it seemed so short and I have 
 loved every minute of it so, that I can only realize it is over, 
 with regret. 
 
 If one could take the Cyprus home, it wouldn't be so bad, but 
 to LEAVE her! It is a real heart-break! It is no Josselyn exaggera- 
 tion when I say that I have Jack and Virginia to thank for the 
 greatest pleasure of my life. 
 
 Thank you, Dears; I love you both.