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THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 
SCENES 
 
 IN 
 
 EUROPE. 
 
 QEBMAN COSTUMES. 
 
 NEW rORK: 
 LEAYITT AND ALLEN, 
 
 21 & 23 MERCER STREET. 
 
SPANISH SMUGGLERS. 
 
 From the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella to the pre- 
 sent time the policy of the Spanish government has been 
 anti-commercial. Their aim has always been to exclude 
 foreign goods so as to force the inhabitants to rely on 
 native manufactures. But the roads in Spain are bad, 
 and the government taxes on native industry are heavy, 
 so that it is impossible for the Spaniards, even if they 
 were ever so skilful and ingenious, to manufacture arti- 
 cles as cheap as the French and English, who have no 
 such difficulties to contend with. The result is that 
 more than half of the entire trade of the country has 
 been thrown into the hands of smugglers. Despite of 
 the laws enacted against the importation of foreign 
 goods, they are brought into the country and the people 
 buy them in preference to their own native manufactures, 
 because they can obtain them cheaper. 
 
 Spain affords the greatest facilities for unlawful trade. 
 A glance at the map will show that she has an exten- 
 sive sea frontier ; foreign goods can also be smuggled 
 into the country by way of France and Portugal. It is 
 not to be wondered at that the laws against the intro- 
 duction of foreign goods into the home markets are a 
 dead letter, and that the government now no longer 
 
 (5) 
 
 ^r^rf^ jmj»mtr% 
 
6 SPANISH SMUGGLERS. 
 
 attempts to notice an evil which it has not the ability 
 to crush them. The smuggler, therefore, fearlessly 
 enters the towns and villages of Spain, and finds a ready 
 sale for his goods, transacting business in open day, in 
 the public markets, in defiance of the laws. 
 
 There is something chivalrous and romantic about 
 Spanish smugglers. His costume is very picturesque. 
 He wears a brown jacket, embroidedwith silver buttons, 
 a red sash, and a laced shirt, short, loose trowsers and 
 a conical hat. He is invariably well-mounted, well- 
 armed, ready to meet danger at a moment's notice, and 
 to fight bravely in defence of his unlawful traffic. His 
 weapons are a cutlass and two brace of pistols ; a long 
 Spanish gun is attached to his side when mounted, the 
 barrel being pointed downwards. His goods are packed 
 in small bales and slung over the crupper of his sad- 
 dle. When travelling, he can always command the 
 best accomodation at the inns. His liveliness, energy, 
 and the ample opportunites he possesses of becoming 
 acquainted with passing events, render him an agree- 
 able companion and a welcome visitant. He may be 
 seen standing at the door of the Spanish inn, telling 
 the news to a group of eager listeners, or seated in the 
 chimney corner, smoking his segar, with his wine skin 
 by his side and enlivening the company with his guitar. 
 
OLIYE GATHEKING. 
 
 Spain and Portugal are countries in which grow 
 spontaneously, in the greatest abundance, the orange, 
 the lemon, the vine, and the olive. The olive plant es- 
 pecially is very common, and much cultivated. In this 
 country olives are used only at the tables of the rich, 
 but in Spain and Portugal they are a common and 
 necessary article of food amongst all classes. The 
 shepherd takes nothing with him to the field but a 
 little bread, a flask of wine, and a horn of olives ; the 
 carvetiero or carman carries with him only his wine 
 skin, his loaf, and his olives ; and the laborer in the 
 field and peasant in his cottage have often nothing more 
 till night fall ; a failure in the olive crop would there- 
 fore be a serious calamity, and its cultivation is the 
 chief object of solicitude to the Spanish and Portuguese 
 farmer. Although olives are disagreeable to those unac- 
 customed to their flavor, yet with bread, they form a 
 nutritive and refreshing diet. 
 
 The olive tree is extremely beautiful and at the same 
 time singular in its appearance. Its trunk usually 
 consists of a mass of decayed wood, with young and 
 graceful branches springing from its top and sides, 
 clothed with dark green leaves. The green wood burns 
 
 (9) 
 
10 OLIVE GATHERING. 
 
 readily, and together with the leaves emits a strong 
 sparkling flame, and apparently contains much oil. 
 
 The oil extracted from the fruit is very pure. It is 
 obtained in the following manner. The olives are at 
 first cleaned and their stalks, and leaves carefully re- 
 moved ; they are then thrown into a mill which crushes 
 them into a paste, this paste is heated over a slow fire 
 in appropriate vessels. The oil now rises to the top 
 and is conveyed by conduits into other vessels, where 
 all the impurities settle at the bottom and leave the 
 good oil floating on the surface,. The oil is then colored 
 and poured off into large jars, when it is ready for sale 
 or use. 
 
 The Spanish method of gathering the olive is diffe- 
 rent from that of the Portuguese, who beat down the fruit 
 from the trees with long poles, as seen in the engraving. 
 Both the oil and the fruit are injured by this practice, 
 as the latter is too much bruised by the fall and the 
 blows. In Spain olives are gathered by the hand, and 
 though the process is more laborious, and expensive, 
 yet ample compensation is afforded by the superiority 
 of the produce. 
 
 Olives intended to be used as food are either cut 
 and soaked with herbs in salt and water, or else 
 blackened and dried in the sun and afterwards put into 
 j ars wdth oil, salt, pepper and other spices. When eaten 
 they are invariably flavored with oil and vinegar. 
 
WINE MAKING. 
 
 The grapes which are cultivated in the United States 
 with so much care in conservatories, grow wild in the 
 south of France, Spain, and Portugal. In those coun- 
 tries the clusters are much larger, and the vines are 
 plentiful. We receive our wines therefore from southern 
 Europe ; about the time we cut our corn they gather 
 their grapes. 
 
 Just before the vintage commences, the wine presses 
 and the vessels which will be required, are washed witli 
 cold water, thoroughly drained, and then sponged with 
 brandy of good quality. The labors of the vintage are 
 conducted in the following manner. 
 
 Children and women gather the grapes in baskets, 
 taking care not to put in any bad or unripe fruit. Every 
 row of vines has its picker, and every twelve rows its 
 overlooker, who sees that the work is done properly and 
 none of the grapes left ungathered. To every eight 
 rows there are two baste carriers, who convey it to the 
 baste, or tub, where the grapes are trodden under foot, and 
 the juice issues through a hole in to another tub, asre])re- 
 sented in the engraving. 
 
 (13) 
 
THE YENETIAN GONDOLA. 
 
 Yenice the capital of Austrian Italy, is one of the most 
 remarkable cities in Europe. It is built on a cluster 
 of small islands. The land coast of these islands 
 is so low, and the spires and domes of her churches 
 and palaces are so lofty, that, as the vessel approaches, 
 the city appears as if rising from the waves. These 
 islands are connected by numerous bridges which, being 
 steep and only intended for foot passengers, are always 
 built in steps rising over an arch. The canals across 
 which these bridges are built intersect every part of 
 the city and form its streets. In such a place carriages 
 and horses are of no use whatever. AljinU^ercourse is 
 carried on by means of Gondolas or barges. The Gon- 
 dola is the sole equipage of the Venetian noble. In 
 this he is carried on his visits, for his amusement, or to 
 his business, and in this a considerable part of his time 
 is passed. 
 
 The length of this beautifulboat is nearly thirty feet, 
 and the breadth about five ; and it affords accommodation 
 for six passengers besides the two rowers. Some, how- 
 ever, are much smaller, and are rowed by one person. 
 The form is very light and elegant. The Gondola is 
 flat bottomed, and its sides slope away considerably. 
 (14) 
 
COEK FOREST IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 The soil of Portugal, like that of Spain, is very fertile, 
 and nothing is wanted but intelligence and industry on 
 the part of the inhabitants to render it productive to 
 almost any extent. Agriculture is, however, much ne- 
 glected. The want of a proper system of renting the 
 land and the consequent insecurity of the occupiers ; 
 the number of Saint's days, fasts, and other supersti- 
 tious observances, together with the ignorance of the 
 people, have prevented the soil from being cultivated, and 
 large tracts still remain covered with forests of pine or 
 of cork. 
 
 The oak grows in considerable quantities in Portu- 
 gal, but it is dwarfish and insignificant when compared 
 with the cork tree. The cork tree resembles the oak 
 in the form of its branches, but it is perhaps more grace- 
 ful. The leaves are smoother and of a brighter green, 
 and the bark which is of an immense thickness, and 
 extremely rough, furnishes the cork which we use for 
 stoppers to bottles &c. When the tree is six or seven 
 years old, it is fit for barking, and as there is always a 
 new bark formed underneath the old bark, the tree sur- 
 vives the operation, and again furnishes another supply 
 in a few more years. 
 
 (19) 
 
20 CORK FOREST IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 The principal exports of cork are obtained from the 
 cork forests at Moira, in the Alentejo. This forest is 
 represented in the annexed engraving. A regiment of 
 Portuguese soldiers have sought refuge from the heat 
 of the sun beneath its shades, after the labor of their 
 toilsome march. The encampment presents an anima- 
 ted scene. Every tree is as it were a house, and shelters 
 a dozen or more soldiers beneath its broad branches and 
 thick foliage. Some of the men appear to be busy pre- 
 paring the frugal meal, others are resting after the fatigue 
 of their journey, others again are forming beds from 
 the branches and underwood, and all appear to be most 
 happy to avail themselves of the grateful covering of 
 the cork trees by which they are surrounded. 
 
YALLET OF SETUBAL IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 Setubal or St. Obes is a city and seaport of Portugal 
 in the province Estremadura, situated on the North 
 side of the bay of Setubal. The city extends about 
 three quarters of a mile along the beach, consisting 
 mostly of two or three narrow, parallel streets, crossed 
 by others, and some squares, in one of which is a hand- 
 some public fountain. It is inclosed by walls partly in 
 ruins, and defended by the castle of St. Philip and a 
 few other detached forts. It has several convents and 
 hospitals, Latin schools, and courts of justice, broad 
 quays and convenient harbors, but it is chiefly remark- 
 able for the very romantic and picturesque scenery of 
 its environs. 
 
 The beautiful valley of Setubal, represented in the 
 engraving, is much frequented by tourists. The forest 
 and mountain scenery here represented well deserves 
 to be sketched by the pencil of the artist. This view 
 combines luxuriant beauty with sterile grandeur. The 
 horizon of the landscape is bounded by the bald peaks 
 of the Cintra mountains ; beyond them is Lisbon the 
 capital of Portugal with its domes and turrets glittering 
 in the sun, and the vast Atlantic covered with an as- 
 semblage of the ships of all civilized nations. In the 
 
 (23) 
 
24 VALLEY OF SETUBAL IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 foreground of the picture are visible, some of the pecu- 
 liarities of a Portuguese forest. The plants of tropical 
 and temperate climates grow together in Portugal. The 
 bright green of the orange and lemon here mingles 
 with the dark foliage of the cedar and the Cyprus ; the 
 elm, the poplar, and the oak, grow beside the prickly 
 pear, the aloe, and the date palm. But unfortu- 
 nately the inhabitants of this valley are too degraded to 
 appreciate the loveliness and grandeur by which they 
 are surrounded. Many of them are robbers. The dark 
 shades of its forests furnish an ambuscade from which 
 they run on the unwary traveller. Robberies however, 
 are not so frequent here as formerly, a more vigilant po- 
 lice, the constant movement of the troops from place, to 
 place, and a castle in its neighborhood have done much 
 to ensure the safety of the visiter. 
 
*«Mi^ 
 
HARVEST IN :N^0RMANDT. 
 
 Normandy is a country which in its general features 
 resembles England. In the reign of William the Con- 
 queror the two countries were united. Many houses in 
 Hertfordshire, Rutlandshire and other English counties 
 are decidedly Norman in their architecture. The climate 
 is rather warmer, and the weather is not so changeable, 
 but the same winds prevail, and the seasons are nearly 
 similar, to those in England. Agriculture is however, 
 in a backward condition. The farms are small, and a 
 great portion of the country is covered by forests and 
 is still uncultivated. 
 
 The agricultural implements of the Norman farmer 
 are in a very primitive state. The ploughs are heavy, 
 the harrows continue to have wooden teeth, and such a 
 thing as a threshing machine or a fan for winnowing is 
 hardly known amongst them. Their mode of harvest- 
 ing is somewhat peculiar as a glance at the cut will show. 
 The American farmer has always one wagon loading 
 in the field, another on the road, and another unload- 
 ing at the barn at the same time. Not a moment is lost, 
 and the work is cheerfully and vigorously performed. 
 In Normandy however, the men are engaged in reaping 
 and binding the sheaves whilst the women are creep- 
 
 (27) 
 
28 HARVEST IN NORMANDY. 
 
 ing the whole day to and from the barn by the side 
 of a horse laden with eight sheaves ! What a waste 
 is here, but such is the custom of the country. 
 
 The truth is that the land is cultivated under different 
 circumstances in Normandy. The farms are genei'ally so 
 poor that there is very little produce to spare for com- 
 mercial purposes, after the wants of the family have 
 been supplied. 
 
 In France, women are employed in rural labor, which 
 is nearly equal in value to that of the men. After the 
 man has had a spell at the plough handle he gives it 
 to the woman. Mr. Cobbett, thus describes a scene 
 on one of the public roads in Normandy. 
 
 " A voice I took for that of a postilion to a courier, or 
 some public conveyance, warned me to get out of the 
 road. The vigorous ' go along !' and the not less vigor- 
 ous cracking of the whip, came from a young woman 
 not more than seventeen years old, who trotted by me, 
 being astride upon one of the wheel-horses of four fat 
 little animals, that, two a-breast, were drawing a little 
 light farmer's wagon. She was riding on the horse with- 
 out a saddle or saddle-cloth." 
 
« 
 
ENGLISH HOP GAEDENS. 
 
 The hop is a perennial rooted plant with an annual 
 twining stem, which on poles or in hedges wdll reach 
 the height of from twelve to fifteen feet, or even more, 
 It is a native of England and most parts of Europe ; 
 grows in hedges, flowers in June, and ripens its sdRs 
 in September. In Europe it has been long cultivated 
 on account of the useful properties of its flowers in the 
 manufacture of beer, and ale. It grows wild in different 
 parts of Asia, but it is not there applied to any useful 
 purpose. 
 
 The method of cultivating the hop in the English gar- 
 den is as follows : — 
 
 The land is first cleared and prepared, and man • e is 
 laid in small heaps where the cuttings or hop slips are. 
 The places are commonly marked off by a number of 
 short stakes being driven into the ground at proper 
 and equal distances from each other. Circular holes 
 about eighteen inches in diameter are then made by 
 taking out the mould to the depth of about twel\o 
 inches. These holes are partially filled with manure, 
 upon which is placed the mould which had been taken 
 out in the first instance; and in this way a series 
 of small risings or hillocks formed, generally at the 
 
 (31) 
 
32 ENGLISH HOP GARDENS. 
 
 distance of about six feet from each other. On each 
 of these hillocks, the slips to the number of five, six, or 
 seven, are planted by means of a dippling stick. One 
 is placed on the top or centre of the hill, and the rest, 
 at equal distances around it, being made to incline to- 
 wards that in the centre. 
 
 The hop slips are generally planted in February or 
 March. About the end of April, the buds or young 
 t\#Qing shoots have generally grown to the height of 
 two or three inches above the ground, and the hop 
 poles are set in the hillocks. The hop poles are slender 
 shoots of the ash, oak, chestnut or willow, from sixteen 
 to twenty feet in height. The young shoots or vines 
 are tied to them with withered rushes. This branch 
 of the cultivation generally affords employment to a 
 great number of persons, particularly women. 
 
 The time of the hop gathering is indicated by the 
 strong scent given forth by the flowers, and the color of 
 the seeds. Frames or bins are constructed of four 
 pieces of board, from seven to eight feet in length, and 
 three feet in width, which are nailed to four posts or 
 legs. A set of six or eight pickers are situated on 
 either side of these frames. There is one man to every 
 set, who cuts the vines and lays the poles on the f lames to 
 be picked. The pickers carefully separate the helps 
 from the plants and throw them into a cloth suspended 
 on hooks beneath the frame. 
 
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