THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 A GLIMPSE OF THE 
 
 ISLES OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 BY 
 
 W. W. WHEELER 
 
 COPYRIGHTED
 
 TO MR. JOSHUA MOTTER, 
 
 MY FRIEND AND LIFE-LONG PARTNER, 
 
 WHO STAYED AT HOME ATTENDING 
 
 TO BUSINESS THUS 
 MAKING IT POSSIBLE FOR ME TO MAKE 
 
 THIS VOYAGE, THIS BOOK 
 
 IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED BY 
 
 THE AUTHOR.
 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 This book, as the title indicates, is a brief sketch of some things we 
 saw on a short trip through Hawaiian Islands, Samoan Islands, New Zealand, 
 Tasmania, Australia, The Philippines, China and Japan. 
 
 I have many friends who are fond of travel, but circumstances make 
 it inconvenient for them to leave home for a long sea voyage. One told 
 me after reading my sketches of a cruise around the Mediterranean entitled 
 "Three Months in Foreign Lands," that he had "enjoyed the trip fully as 
 much as I, much more comfortably, and at less expense." It is for such 
 friends as well as all others who enjoy reading Foreign Travels, that I have 
 written this memoranda of what we saw on a voyage on the Pacific Ocean, 
 the greatest body of water on earth, with thousands of islands inhabited by 
 every race of humanity now living. These sketches are neither history 
 nor fiction and I beg you to excuse and overlook all errors as I am not an 
 author or professional writer, but simply a wholesale dry goods merchant 
 out for health and recreation, and made notes as I traveled along of such 
 things as I saw from day to day. There are so many things different from 
 what we see in our own favored land, that I trust you will be interested in 
 reading the book. Many things can be more satisfactorily shown by photo- 
 graphs than by any other means; having this in mind, I took a kodak with 
 me continually, and made snap shots of such views as to me were inter- 
 esting, scenic or beautiful, also some photos were purchased at different 
 places. 
 
 If you are interested in travel, in seeing different countries, their people 
 and customs, come with me and I will tell you as well as I can, a little of 
 what we saw on a four months cruise around the Pacific. 
 
 Why did you go to New Zealand and Australia? asked one of my 
 friends. One reason is, comparatively few travelers go there, and I wanted 
 to see that part of the world where the grass was not beaten down in the 
 path of the tourist. 
 
 If it affords my friends half the pleasure to read this narrative that it 
 gave me to make the trip, then my object in publishing this little book is 
 accomplished. 
 
 Yours sincerely, 
 
 W. W. WHEELER. 
 
 636794
 
 A GLIMPSE OF THE 
 
 ISLES OF THE PACIFIC 
 
 When Columbus left Spain to discover America, no 
 doubt he knew as much about what he would find, as we 
 did when we sailed out of the San Francisco Golden Gate, 
 on our voyage around the great Pacific Ocean via New 
 Zealand and Australia to China and Japan. On February 
 7th, 1907, our party consisting of my wife, daughter and 
 self, left Frisco, on board the S. S. Sierra, of Oceanic 
 Steamship Company Line (sometimes called the Spreckles 
 Line) (Captain H. C. Houdlette, commander), a ship of 
 about 6000 tons, which is large for the Pacific Ocean trade, 
 but would be called small for the Atlantic. We carried 
 sixty-six first cabin passengers and thirty-six second cabin, 
 besides a cargo'of general merchandise. The crew consisted 
 of two hundred and sixty-four officers and men all 
 Americans.
 
 ROYAI, PAI<M AVENUE, HONOLULU.
 
 HONOLULU. 
 
 After a fair voyage of six days, we landed at Honolulu, 
 Hawaiian Islands, where, much to our regret, about half of 
 the first-class passengers left us, among whom we had 
 formed some very pleasant acquaintances. We went to the 
 Hotel Young for the night and breakfast, then took a 
 White Steamer Automobile to see the city. Much to our 
 surprise, we found it quite up to date. They have a 
 population of 43,000 made up of native Hawaiians, 
 Americans, English, Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, and a 
 few from nearly all other nations. 
 
 There are several fine hotels here, the Capitol building, 
 the Palace of Ex-Queen Liliuokalani, many blocks of store 
 buildings, several hospitals, also many fine mansions 
 surrounded by tropical gardens, being the homes of sugar 
 planters. These fine places usually cover a full block or 
 more, the lawns having a great variety of palms, banana 
 trees, and all the most beautiful trees and flowers, which 
 grow in a tropical climate, surrounded by hedges of 
 Hibiscus, ten to fifteen feet high. This Hibiscus is a tiny 
 and puny plant with us, which only grows with the 
 tenderest nursing, but here it grows to be a small tree with 
 great wealth of blossoms. 
 
 They have fine streets, well paved, a good line of 
 electric street cars, and are well supplied with public school 
 buildings, not many churches, and these are Catholic, 
 Congregational and Methodist, also a very good Y. M. C. A., 
 and its membership is made up of Whites, Chinese. 
 Japanese, Portuguese, and Negroes, who. they claim, all 
 \vork together very well.
 
 The chief product of these Islands is sugar. They 
 raise fourteen tons to the acre. In this climate the cane 
 ripens at any season of the year the planter may desire, 
 according to the time when it is planted, so that on a large 
 plantation they have work all the year round in cutting and 
 grinding sugar cane. Many very large fortunes have been 
 made here in the sugar business. Mr. Claus Spreckles is 
 one who has amassed millions; also Mr. Alexander Young, 
 who still lives here, accumulated a large fortune in this 
 business, and has built the finest hotel in Honolulu, costing 
 over a million and a half dollars, a fire-proof structure six 
 stories high with a beautiful roof garden, and an elegant 
 block of store buildings on first floor. This is a great 
 winter resort for people from the United States who wish 
 to avoid the winters at home, and it is certainly an ideal 
 climate for a lazy man. The highest temperature during 
 the year is 84 in July and the lowest is 58 in January, only 
 26 degrees of variation during the year. 
 
 We saw great fields of banana trees. These grow, 
 under their plan of cultivation, about ten feet high, and each 
 small tree bears one bunch of bananas. This tree is then 
 cut down and another grown from its sprouts in ten months. 
 
 We saw rice fields, and we ate the most delicious pine- 
 apples. These do not grow on trees, but in a garden, like 
 cabbage. They are planted in rows and grow close to the 
 ground. All the trees here are evergreen, and almost any- 
 thing can be planted at any season of the year, and comes 
 to harvest in a short time. 
 
 The native Hawaiians are averse to labor of any kind; 
 in fact are (by themselves) considered above work. Nature 
 has so favored them that very little labor is necessary to get 
 plenty to eat, and the little that they need for clothing. 
 
 1 1
 
 DATE PAI.MS, HONOLULU.
 
 They are a kindly disposed, child-like, copper-colored race. 
 They have a pleasant custom of placing garlands of flowers, 
 called leis, around your neck and hat when you depart from 
 them, always smiling when you say good-by, maybe because 
 they are glad to see you go. At any rate as we were about 
 to sail, our steamer friends, those who left the boat at that 
 point, followed the custom of the Islanders, and covered us 
 with wreaths and garlands of flowers when they came down 
 to the dock to see us off. We said good-by with regret, 
 as there will only be thirty first-class passengers now to 
 Auckland, about one-fourth of the number the ship is 
 prepared to carry, and we shall miss our steamer friends 
 very much, as it is a long, voyage we now have before us. 
 
 At sea February i8th. Were you ever adrift at sea, 
 without power to direct or guide your boat? Last night, 
 just as we were about to retire, the fusible safety plug blew 
 out of one of our boilers, rendering the power of our ship 
 helpless. The boat immediately swung around into the 
 trough of the sea swells and began rolling very heavily, and 
 drifting. We knew not whether they could repair the 
 break in one day, or even whether they could, in fact, 
 successfully repair it at all. We were almost exactly in the 
 center of the great Pacific Ocean, about one thousand 
 miles from the Samoan Islands, our nearest harbor. No 
 ships ever come over this track except the three owned and 
 run by the Oceanic Steamship Company, and the next one 
 in these waters is the Ventura, due in about two weeks. 
 If we should be still drifting, would she see us and pick us 
 up? The chances are that we would be so far drifted out 
 of our course that she would not see us. Fortunately, the 
 sea was not very rough, but a great big swell was on, 
 which nearly threw us out of our berths, as the ship rolled 
 
 13
 
 from side to side. To add to our distress, the ship was 
 badly listed to port, and had been for two days. The 
 officers never tell the passengers about what is the trouble 
 in such a case, and, indeed, they had troubles enough of 
 their own. With the ship rolling in such a manner and the 
 temperature at 140 degrees in the engine room, their limit 
 was almost reached, and then, to make their troubles still 
 greater, at 1:30 in the morning the dynamo which makes 
 all the lights for the ship balked, and every light in the ship 
 went out, leaving them in total darkness. Of course, 
 nothing could be done to the boilers until they had light, 
 and the chief engineer then turned his attention to repairing 
 the dynamo, with the aid of a tallow candle and a small 
 hand lamp. He did his best and got the dynamo started 
 at 4 a. m. Then he returned to the boiler trouble again. 
 What if a storm should arise before they could again start 
 the engine, and roll this big steamer clear over? And many 
 times it seemed as if she would go over, but should we take 
 to the small boats before she w r ent over, how many of us 
 would ever be able to reach land, even if the small boats 
 could live in a heavy sea, which is not at all likely. One 
 can imagine that very few of the passengers slept any that 
 night. 
 
 The next morning we had breakfast, the boat still 
 drifting and rolling. We made an effort to try to be 
 cheerful and say something to bring a smile and liven up 
 the solemn appearance of our fellow passengers, but it was 
 no go. There was not a smile to be had in that crowd. 
 After TRYING to eat breakfast, we all adjourned to the 
 promenade deck and were then greeted by the sight of more 
 than a dozen big man-eating sharks, ugly looking brutes, as 
 large as a horse, swimming around the boat. To see a 
 
 '5
 
 shark when your boat is in distress is not an omen of good 
 luck, and you cannot make yourself think so, even if you try. 
 It gave every passenger time for reflection. One suggested 
 that he thought of all the sins of his past life. We thought, 
 "Well this is surely seeking pleasure under difficulties," and 
 we wished we were safely home again in old St. Joseph. 
 If we could only get home again, we would say, to use the 
 familiar style, "Missouri is good enough for me." However, 
 all troubles end sometime, and in this case fortune favored 
 us, and after twelve hours of most assiduous labor, the 
 engineer got things patched up so that she would run 
 again at a slower rate of speed, and having fairly good 
 weather, we made Pago Pago, on the Samoan Islands, two 
 days late. The engineer said later that he never worked so 
 hard in his life as he did to get the break repaired, as he 
 knew the passengers would be in a panic if a blow should 
 come up before the engines could handle the ship. 
 
 SAMOAN ISLANDS. 
 
 The best harbor in the Samoan Islands is Pago Pago, 
 where we arrived on Washington's birthday and were 
 greeted by the gunboat Adams with a salute of twenty-one 
 guns in honor of the day, and it does look good to see Old 
 Glory, "the emblem of the land we love," floating in this 
 far-away seaport. This Island and harbor is the property 
 of the United States, and we maintain here a gunboat with 
 150 officers and men. The commanding officer is also 
 Governor of the Island, which is twenty miles long, and 
 about six miles wide. Fourteen degrees south of the 
 Equator, it is always warm. The temperature ranges from 
 65 to 90 degrees and is very humid. The population, aside 
 from our Navy, is thirty whites, and six thousand native
 
 Samoans, who are copper-colored and a fine, shapely lot of 
 humanity. They are, indeed, larger and in better flesh than 
 the average people of our own land, not war-like, but of a 
 kindly disposition. They wear less clothing than any 
 people we ever saw; in fact, the men only wear a breech 
 clout and the women not much more. How quickly one 
 gets accustomed to such garb; it looks all right here for 
 these people to dress in that way. 
 
 The Island is covered with cocoa-nut, banana, bread- 
 fruit and orange trees, all growing wild, without any 
 cultivation. Their homes are usually thatched straw, 
 simply to keep the rain out, and it rains there for sure. 
 In the two days before we were there, it rained TWENTY 
 inches, and 230 inches per year is their usual rain-fall. 
 While we were there the sun was bright and hot. 
 
 Their food is altogether the fruits of the trees, which 
 they gather with almost no labor, and the fish, which are 
 very plentiful and easily caught. This is all their living 
 expenses, except their clothing, which is very limited, as 
 before mentioned, and to pay for this they cut the meat of 
 the cocoa-nuts in strips and dry it in the sun. Then it is 
 called COPRA and is sold, a large amount of it to our 
 markets, where the oils are pressed out and used for making 
 many of our best soaps. 
 
 They are a happy and contented people, excellent divers 
 and swimmers. The prices of railroad stocks, wheat and 
 corn, do not trouble them in the least. 
 
 This harbor is quite small, almost a circle about half a 
 mile across, and very deep, supposed to be the crater of an 
 old volcano, surrounded by mountains, about fifteen 
 hundred feet high. Only a narrow strip of level land runs 
 around this harbor, where the straggling town of Pago 
 
 19
 
 Pago is built. The only house of much importance is the 
 Governor's mansion, a large yellow frame on a high point 
 to the south as we enter the harbor. Our Government 
 maintains a COAL supply here, which coal comes from 
 England, America and Australia. There is really almost no 
 commerce here, its only value to the United States being 
 Coaling Station in time of war, and it seems that it is 
 very doubtful if it is worth to us what it costs to maintain it. 
 
 The London Mission Society established a mission 
 here in 1835, anc ^ nearly the whole native population have 
 become Christians under their teaching. They have tauglrE" 
 them to read and most of them to write, and have 
 established schools in different parts of the Island. They 
 have several books printed in their Samoan language, and 
 three or four newspapers. One of them is a weekly, 
 printed under direction and at the expense of our United 
 States Government, and distributed free, intended to 
 educate the people. About thirty years ago, the Catholics 
 established a mission here, and later the Wesleyan 
 Methodists and the Mormons. These last three have made 
 some progress, but nine-tenths of the natives are still 
 adherents of the first church that is, the Congregational. 
 It is an error for the last three Mission Societies to make 
 an effort here, when the field is well supplied, and 
 effectively, by the London missions. 
 
 We went to church on Sunday, February 24th, and 
 heard the Post Chaplain, Mr. Frazier, from Richmond, 
 Virginia, preach a very good sermon. 
 
 For much of this informatfon, we are indebted to 
 United States Judge Gurr, who dispenses justice over the 
 Island. He is a very pleasant gentleman, a native of 
 Tasmania, Australia, has lived here twenty-four years, is 
 
 21
 
 married to a native Samoan woman, and they have two 
 interesting children, a daughter eleven years .of age, and a 
 son nine. The Judge invited the whole ship's passengers 
 out to a picnic on his plantation, about three miles from 
 the harbor. Our Captain accepted and took us all in one 
 of the ship's boats, towed by a small gasoline launch. 
 When we arrived at our landing place, the water for about 
 two hundred yards was too shallow 7 for the boats to come 
 to shore. The ladies were carried ashore on the backs of 
 native boatmen, and the men took off shoes and stockings, 
 rolled up their trousers and waded ashore, where we were 
 met by Judge Gurr, his wife, and three native girls, one of 
 whom was the daughter of a Samoan Chief, and by her 
 own right a reigning belle. They led the way through the 
 plantation, which is thickly covered with sugar cane, 
 cocoa-nut, banana and bread-fruit trees, and many other 
 kinds of trees, among them being the cocoa bean 
 tree, the first we have seen of this tree. The cocoa-beans 
 grow in pods, which contain several beans. They have 
 only been planted a few years, and are just beginning to 
 bear fruit. These trees are about the size of a peach 
 tree and have leaves eight or ten inches long, light green 
 color. Our path led us along a clear bubbling mountain 
 brook through a regular jungle of tropical vegetation. We 
 were obliged to cross the brook half a dozen times on 
 cobble stones, and most of us slipped off the stones and 
 wet our white shoes, but the weather was so warm that 
 there was no clanger of taking cold. 
 
 After a toilsome climb for about a mile in the terrible 
 heat, we came to the picnic ground, situated at the foot of a 
 beautiful little mountain waterfall, about thirty feet high. 
 A good, strong current of water flows over this fall, and 
 
 23
 
 drops into a little pool some fifty feet in diameter, 
 nearly round and quite deep. We were surrounded by the 
 tropical forest and jungle, many large and small trees, also 
 ferns growing in every possible place where they could 
 catch hold. On nearly every tall tree, there would be a 
 a bunch or more of these beautiful ferns. Wherever a limb 
 was broken off or a knot hole appeared, a bunch of ferns 
 would immediately begin to grow, appearing much like a 
 large bird's nest located fifty feet above the earth. 
 
 An awning was spread and under it was placed our 
 lunch, which had been brought from the steamer. The 
 whole company sat on the ground, the Captain at the head 
 of the line, with Mrs. Judge Gurr at his side, and the native 
 girls next. We were very tired after our long walk and 
 enjoyed the lunch, washed down with plenty of ginger ale 
 and clear, cool spring water. 
 
 After lunch, the next thing in order was a swim in the 
 pool. We were all invited to go in and swim, but our 
 party declined. The Judge's wife, the three native girls 
 and the little son of the Judge were soon in the water. 
 They are great divers and swimmers, and did many antics 
 in the water for our diversion. 
 
 Next we tramped back to the beach, slipping into the 
 brook several times on our way. The Judge took us to 
 his plantation house and spread mats on the ground, for us 
 to sit on, while waiting for our boats to come, and gave us 
 a lesson in harvesting cocoa-nuts. One of his men walked 
 up a cocoanut tree fifty feet high, like a monkey. There 
 were about five bushels of cocoanuts at the top of this tree; 
 he knocked off many of them and prepared them for our 
 refreshment. The shell of the cocoa-nut has a heavy 
 covering, or husk, about two inches thick; to remove this, 
 
 25
 
 the native sharpens a stick at both ends and drives it into 
 the ground, then takes the cocoa-nut and strikes it on the 
 sharp point of this stick, driving the stick through the 
 outer shell or husk, and with three or four quick jerks 
 removes it. Then the cocoanut is the same as it appears when 
 it comes to our market. He then takes a long heavy knife 
 and cuts out the end of the cocoa-nut, and hands it to his 
 guest to drink. The milk, which is about a pint, is as clear 
 as spring water, a pleasant drink and quite refreshing. 
 
 After returning to our steamer for dinner, some of our 
 party went out for a moonlight boat ride, with natives to 
 pull the boat. They sing their wierd native songs. The 
 singing became monotonous, however, after they had sung 
 the same verse over two hundred times. THEY ARE MUSICAL 
 
 AND LIKE TO SING. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Boss, of New York, have been sent here 
 by astronomical societies to make a chart of the southern 
 heavens. They have located their observatory on the top 
 of a small mountain on the seashore near the entrance of 
 the harbor. They live alone on this mountain crag, about 
 two miles from the town, and kindly invited our party to 
 make them a visit, which was enjoyed very much. 
 
 The natives have no opportunity to get intoxicating 
 liquors of any kind,. but they make a queer substitute, which 
 they call CAVA, from a plant root which grows here. To 
 prepare this for drink, the original plan was for the women 
 to chew it up fine and spit it into a bowl, where it was allowed 
 to stand in water for a time and ferment. The mixture was 
 then strained to take the small root fibre out, and was then 
 ready for drink. Some of our passengers who drank it, 
 say the taste is rather flat, yet it has some of the effects of 
 
 27
 
 alcoholic drink, not affecting the head so much as the legs; 
 the women and children are not permitted to drink this 
 concoction. 
 
 Originally there were no animals, chickens or reptiles 
 on this Island, and scarcely any birds. There are now as 
 many pigs as the natives wish, a few chickens, and very few 
 birds of any kind. There are no cattle except three or four 
 cows, which belong to the Catholic Mission. There are 
 fourteen saddle horses on the Island, and they are a sorry 
 lot in appearance, as they get nothing to eat except grass, 
 and the rainfall is so heavy that the grass is not very 
 nutritious. There are no wheeled vehicles of any kind here, 
 except bicycles. A few of these are used in the town, 
 where they have a narrow road built about eight feet wide. 
 While the walking is not good on account of dense under- 
 growth, yet the only way to ''get there" is to walk, when 
 at Samoan Island. 
 
 There are only three stores in the town. We visited 
 all of them, and their combined stocks would not amount 
 to more than two thousand dollars in value. In conversa- 
 tion with one of the proprietors, he said business was fair 
 and that there were other places worse than this for trade. 
 
 He has been in business here for six years, and is an 
 Englishman; his stock would be worth, at a fair estimate, 
 two hundred and fifty dollars. 
 
 As before stated, the natives have almost no use for 
 goods of any kind, and they scarcely know the use of 
 money; they are almost communistic in their ways. While 
 they are not dishonest and will not steal, yet they will take 
 and appropriate anything they see that they want. That is, 
 if one of their number has anything that his neighbor 
 wants, he simply takes it and the owner will not refuse 
 
 29
 
 NATIVE NEW ZEALAND WARRIOR.
 
 him. There are several small villages scattered over the 
 Island; if any of these villages get scarce of food, they 
 all go in a body to the next village and stay with them as 
 long as there is anything to be found there to eat, and the 
 host makes no objection. 
 
 We spent three days quite pleasantly in this far-away 
 and queer country of Samoan Islands. The sun is intensely 
 hot during the middle of the day, and one that is not 
 accustomed to this heat should not venture out when the 
 sun is high; he is liable to sunstroke. We did not suffer 
 from heat at night. 
 
 The Fiji Islands are located five hundred miles west of 
 the Samoan Islands. We are told there are no cannibals 
 there now, as they have been taught by the Missionaries, 
 and many of them are now Christians, but they were 
 originally cannibals. 
 
 The Solomon Islands, which are near here, are 
 populated with savage natives, and they still eat human 
 flesh, not for a regular diet, but when in war they will kill 
 and eat an enemy. 
 
 We arrived at Auckland, New Zealand, on Saturday, 
 March 2nd, after a voyage of twenty-two days from Frisco, 
 including the two stops. Omitting the unpleasant times 
 mentioned heretofore, on account of defective machinery, 
 the S. S. Sierra is one of the most pleasant boats we ever 
 traveled upon. Captain Houdlette was most kind and 
 obliging to the passengers, and Chief Engineer Mclntosh 
 is a hero. He stood by his task, night and day; the 
 passengers wrote him a letter, acknowledging their 
 gratitude for his arduous services, and presented him with 
 a watch charm at Auckland to commemorate the trip.
 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 The name is appropriate, in that the country is the 
 NEWEST on the face of the earth today, having only been 
 settled by the whites sixty-seven years. It is of volcanic 
 origin, and in my opinion, came to the surface of the ocean 
 centuries later than all the large continents of the earth. 
 There are many things which lead me to this conclusion, 
 one of which is that when first settled by the English, there 
 was really no animal or bird or reptile life on these islands, 
 and there is none to the present day, except those which 
 have been imported from other countries, and no fresh 
 water fish in its waters except importations. A friend once 
 told me, "When you are traveling, go to New Zealand; it 
 is the original 'Garden of Eden/" I had always been of 
 the belief that the original "Garden of Eden" was situated 
 on the River Euphrates, in Asia; however, the very first 
 trip we made after landing was to the top of "Mount 
 Eden", a coincidence which might mean that others had 
 been of the belief that this was the original "Garden of 
 Eden." I do think, however, that it is the GARDEN SPOT 
 OF THE EARTH, TODAY, considering its salubrious and even 
 climate, its beautiful scenery, hill and dale, mountain, farm 
 and grazing land, and the most accommodating and 
 pleasant people to be met anywhere. 
 
 We were delighted with the appearance of Auckland 
 as we entered the bay, which is a fine large harbor, and 
 deep, so that ships come alongside the wharf. This is a 
 beautiful city of about 75,000 population. New Zealand is 
 an English Colony, and nearly all the population are 
 English, Scotch or their descendants, and a fine people they 
 
 33
 
 are. \Ye did not see a drunken man, or hear any profane 
 language while we were in New Zealand. We stopped at 
 the Grand Hotel, on the top of a beautiful hill overlooking 
 the bay; this hotel is small and has no elevators, but it is 
 scrupulously neat and clean, and the table fare is good. 
 
 We drove to the top of the highest mountain in this 
 vicinity, an extinct volcano 500 feet high, with a crater 
 about 100 feet deep. This mountain is situated almost in 
 the middle of Auckland and a grand view is had from this 
 point over the entire city and bay. We never saw so many 
 beautiful small cottages, with fine landscape gardens 
 surrounding them. These cottages are frame buildings, 
 mostly one story, with porches on two or three sides, 
 ornamented with much filigree and neatly painted, usually 
 canary color with white trimmings. They are occupied by 
 the laboring classes and are so far superior to the houses in 
 our own cities, which are occupied by the laboring classes, 
 that there is really no comparison. 
 
 The city of Auckland is well situated for foreign trade, 
 and does a large export and import business. It is well 
 supplied with churches, schools and hospitals. A ferry boat 
 line runs across the bay every half hour to a beautiful suburb 
 called Davenport; distance across the bay one mile; fare, 
 twelve cents round trip. 
 
 The climate is semi-tropical; they raise some oranges 
 and many palm trees. 
 
 On March 5th, we went by rail to Rotorua. the hot 
 springs district. The railroad runs through a fine farming 
 country for the first one hundred miles, then seventy 
 miles through the mountains. This road is a narrow 
 gauge, three feet six inches, and has many sharp grades and 
 curves. The mountain scenery is fine, and there is much 
 
 35
 
 heavy timber along the line, which is being wasted by 
 cutting and burning, simply to clear the ground for 
 farming. There will be a time, not far in the future when 
 these people will find they have made a great mistake in 
 wasting their timber, as they will need it. 
 
 Rotorua is a small town, one thousand population, 
 built entirely for the tourist; the Government has expended 
 about a million dollars here, in building hotels, parks, 
 bathing houses, streets and roadways. The Grand is a fine 
 first-class hotel, and many others are good. The park, or 
 public garden, is the finest we sa\v in New Zealand, 
 ornamented with beautiful trees, flowers, lakes, etc. Hot 
 steaming springs, lakes, drives etc.. also the public baths, 
 owned by the Government, are very fine and noted for their 
 medicinal qualities. They have two large swimming pools, 
 one for men and one for women. The water is hot and 
 impregnated with sulphur, said to be very beneficial for 
 rheumatism and skin diseases. There are several beautiful 
 lakes here, surrounded by mountains and well filled with 
 fish. We took a small steam launch and went across Lake 
 Rotorua about nine miles, when we saw a fine stream of 
 water or river flowing from under the mountain; the volume 
 of water is as wide as one of our streets and several feet 
 deep. Next we went with our launch through a narrow 
 river, or channel, to Lake Rotoiti. which is about eight 
 miles long. The outlet of these two lakes forms a good sized 
 river with many rapids and waterfalls; they have utilized a 
 small part of the water to make electric lights and power 
 for the city of Rotorua, which is eighteen miles distant. 
 From there we took a four horse stage and drove to the 
 Hot Springs of Tikiteri. There are no spouting geysers at 
 this place, but there is about two hundred acres covered 
 
 37
 
 with boiling lakes and mud volcanoes, all throwing off a 
 great volume of steam and sulphur vapor. It has the 
 appearance of being very near the infernal regions. 
 
 Next, we drove half a mile to Blue Lake, the crater of 
 an extinct volcano. This lake is almost circular, about 
 half a mile across, very deep, fresh water, surrounded by 
 mountains, and has no outlet; the color is a deep blue and 
 is very pretty in contrast with the high walls of green 
 surrounding it. 
 
 Driving back to the city, we passed many small hot 
 springs with clouds of vapor rising from them; immediately 
 around Rotorua, not more than two miles from the city is 
 an important geyser district with a great many boiling lakes 
 and boiling mud baths. A part of this has been set apart 
 for a government park and is free to the public, but the 
 best part is the private property of the Maoris (or original 
 people who inhabited the island before the white settlement); 
 they have a village here of three or four hundred; they use 
 some of these boiling springs for cooking their meals, and 
 in others which are not too hot, they do their washing; 
 they never have to buy wood or coal for fuel. 
 
 We left Rotorua at eight o'clock in the morning with 
 the prospects of a perfect day before us; the air was 
 delightful, and the sun shone brightly. We had the box 
 seats on a high drag, which carried twelve passengers. 
 We drove ten miles, part of the time through the native 
 "bush," which is very lovely, as there is an endless number 
 of tree ferns all about; suddenly, through a break in the 
 mountains, we came upon the loveliest bright blue lake 
 imaginable; it was simply hemmed in with mountains. The 
 peculiar color is attributed to the soil and the minerals in it. 
 
 39
 
 Just an eighth of a mile from this is a green lake quite as 
 vivid green as one could imagine. 
 
 At the end of the drive, we reached the buried Maori 
 village of Wairoa, where eighty Maoris and several 
 Englishmen were killed in the great eruption of June, 1886. 
 Tarawera mountain was the center, but nine craters all 
 erupted at the same time. In this village, they showed us 
 the ruins of the school house and hotel w r here the English 
 people were killed, also the little "whare'' or cottage, where 
 one of the chief's wives, "Sophia," sheltered sixty people. 
 Sophia is still alive, although very old. and the Maoris all 
 think a great deal of her. 
 
 From Wairoa, we took a naphtha launch and went 
 across Lake Tarawera. All the way the huge mountain of 
 Tarawera frowned down upon us. At the side of this 
 mountain, a huge piece blew out and fell into the lake 
 during the eruption; this leaves a yawning hole, which gives 
 the mountain a ferocious appearance. We walked about a 
 quarter of a mile between Tarawera and Rotomahana, 
 where we took another launch and went across this lake. 
 Here are the sites of the famous pink and white terraces, 
 which were destroyed by the great eruption: this is a pity, 
 because they were very beautiful and quite the sights of 
 New Zealand. The guide shows you where they were, and 
 the hot water and the minerals which form them: there are 
 numerous boiling springs all about this lake, and clouds of 
 steam can be seen in almost every direction. We landed 
 on hot ground and proceeded to walk up an old river bed. 
 seeing, every few feet, little clouds of steam rising from the 
 bank: anywhere along here one could poke a stick into the 
 ground, which was quite soft, and steam would immediately 
 come out. We walked about four miles and climbed two 
 
 41
 
 big hills, saw more steam holes, and one called the "Frying 
 Pan," where hot water was boiling and bubbling up over 
 quite a large space of sand, and looked very like its name. 
 
 At last, we reached the crater of the great geyser, 
 Wiamungu, which, at the present time is not active. Up 
 to a year and a half ago, it spouted to a height of from 200 
 to 300 feet. The guide said it had ceased playing because 
 the two lakes adjacent to it had lowered several feet, and, 
 of course, we were not in a position to question that. 
 About two or three months before it ceased playing, four 
 people were killed because they stood too near and the 
 boiling spray covered them. 
 
 We reached the rest house overlooking Wiamungu, 
 very tired and hungry, and were glad that our long walk 
 was at an end. After lunch we drove to Wiatopu, six 
 miles distant, where we spent the night. Here are some 
 more geyser formations, one called the "Champagne Pool," 
 which bubbles furiously all the time, another sulphur pool, 
 which of course is a bright yellow, and several sulphur 
 holes, where one sees bright sulphur unadulterated. In 
 another place there are some very pretty alum cliffs, and in 
 still another spot we were shown some tiny terraces forming. 
 These are only twenty years old. as they have begun to 
 form since the great eruption of Tarawera, when the big 
 terraces were destroyed. Here one is shown the action of 
 the water and minerals which form them; these little new 
 terraces are hard white substance, something like silica, 
 over which the water continually runs; in several centuries, 
 they will probably be as large as the old ones which were 
 destroyed. 
 
 The next morning we left Wiatopu early and drove 
 thirty miles through most uninteresting country to 
 
 43
 
 \Vnirnkei, which we reached in four hours. We had lunch 
 at the cozy little hotel and started out immediately 
 afterwards with a guide to view "Geyser Valley." We 
 walked for a mile down a most picturesque path, lined with 
 "bush" on either side, to the Valley. The first thing we 
 saw was the Devil's Chaldron, which was a deep place, 
 seething and boiling furiously. The wonderful part, to us, 
 in this Valley is the way the dainty little ferns and green 
 moss grow quite down to the boiling water. They seem to 
 thrive on the hot vapor, and to grow even more luxuriantly 
 there than any spot we had seen. At all other places where 
 there is any geyser activity, it is quite bare and arid looking, 
 but in this Geyser Valley, the boiling springs are hidden 
 from view by beautiful bush* until one simply comes upon 
 them unexpectedly. The effect is almost impossible to 
 describe, but it is wonderfully picturesque. 
 
 The first big geyser we saw spouting was the 
 Wairakei. It plays every eleven minutes and was really 
 exceedingly pretty, going up to a height of about forty 
 feet the day we saw it, but often higher than that. Another 
 exceedingly dainty geyser was the Prince of Wales' 
 Feathers, which sprays up like three feathers; it is quite 
 high up on a plateau of rock and makes an effective picture 
 when it plays. At one spot we saw what was called the 
 "Heron's Nest." This is a tiny bubbling pool which comes 
 out of a deep round rock, quite salmon colored, and 
 looking much like a nest. The rock is imbedded in 
 beautiful ferns and moss, and the salmon color against the 
 green is most attractive. Near here, we saw the "Twins," 
 two small geysers which play punctually every four 
 minutes and make a lot of fuss about it. The "Paddle- 
 
 45
 
 Wheel" is most interesting because when it plays it sounds 
 exactly like the paddle-wheel of a river steamboat. 
 
 After leaving Geyser Valley, we drove to "YYairoa 
 Valley" where the formations are similar to those mentioned 
 heretofore, except that there are several hot water falls, 
 which are salmon-colored and bright yellow; this is caused 
 by the different minerals in the rocks. We saw "Porridge- 
 Pots," also, where the white mud bubbles up continually in 
 little sprays. In this valley, it is said, one can catch a trout 
 in a clear, cold little stream, and turn around and drop the 
 fish into a boiling spring on the other side and cook it. 
 But the most attractive things to us in this valley were the 
 colored pools of water. As we walked along we saw a 
 bright yellow, then a blue, then a lavender, and lastly a 
 deep claret-colored pool, which looks exactly like claret 
 wine. These are colored by the minerals in the soil, so the 
 guide says; but to us it was a most extraordinary thing. 
 All through this valley, too. we came upon clumps of 
 magenta-colored moss growing close to the hot water's 
 edge; it seemed quite out of place among so much green. 
 
 The next morning, bright and early, we drove back 
 to Rotorua, forty miles away. We did half the drive in the 
 morning, with a rest and lunch at Atiamuri, a pretty little 
 spot on the banks of the Waikato River, and finished the 
 drive in the afternoon. As far as Atiamuri, the trip was 
 most interesting, as we went up and down the mountains 
 most of the way, through pretty bush, but after lunch we 
 went across dreary plains covered with "Manuku." or tall 
 coarse grass which is "nevergreen" so we were exceedingly 
 glad to reach Rotorua, a good dinner and a soft bed. 
 
 On March nth, we took up our journey by rail to 
 Taumaranui, the present end of the railroad, arriving there 
 
 47
 
 after dark: we found lodging in a hotel that was very 
 primitive, indeed. They used tallow candles for light, 
 which is a novelty in these days; however, they gave us 
 good meals and good, clean beds. 
 
 Next morning, bright and early, we were off on our two 
 days trip down the Wanganui River. This is the greatest 
 scenery in the North Island and is called the "Rhine of New 
 Zealand." When we embarked on the river, it was very 
 small and shallow; our boats for the first ten miles were 
 two canoes, one for the passengers and one for the luggage. 
 They drew only six inches of water, yet they had some 
 trouble in getting over the many shallow rapids. Once 
 they put us off and made us walk around the rapids, as it 
 was dangerous for us to go through; in fact, sometimes 
 boats are turned over here and both passengers and 
 luggage spilled in the water. We had many sharp turns to 
 make, and our boats dragged on the bottom frequently; 
 however, we were landed at the first steamboat station 
 about ten o'clock, having made the seventeen miles in 
 canoes in three hours. Our first steamer on this far- 
 famed river is a novelty. It draws twelve or fourteen 
 inches of water and is built for shooting the rapids, and 
 we certainly had a great ride on it. There were rapids at 
 least every half mile, and the water was so shallow that the 
 steamer dragged on the rocks at each rapid; it was built 
 with heavy wooden bottom and slid over apparently 
 without damage. 
 
 We went down the river on this first steamer until 
 twelve o'clock, where another steamer was awaiting us. 
 This second steamer is a little larger than the first, and 
 draws fifteen or sixteen inches of water, but built in the 
 same way for shooting the rapids. 
 
 49
 
 After getting a good lunch at the house boat, moored 
 here to serve as a hotel, we steamed on down to 
 Pipiriki, where we stopped for the night. There is nothing 
 at this place except the hotel built there for the use of 
 tourists, and it is very good. 
 
 Next morning, we started out early on the largest 
 steamer on the river; it is about fifty per cent larger than 
 the second steamer which we used the day previous. We 
 had here some additional passengers and, including the 
 crew, carried forty people, and the boat was full. I should 
 mention that the crew on all these steamers consisted of 
 the pilot, who is also the captain, the engineer and two 
 polemen, one at the bow and the other at the stern, each 
 with a pole. In many places the turns were so sharp, and 
 the current so swift, that these polemen were needed to 
 push the steamer either to starboard or port. 
 
 There is some local business along- the river; whenever 
 an individual wishes to ride, all he does is to wait on the 
 bank of the stream and call to the pilot when the boat comes 
 in sight; they are quite accommodating, and will land for 
 one passenger or a box of fruit. We had quite a cargo of 
 fruit at the end of the day's run, probably twenty small 
 boxes; the fruit is very fine here. 
 
 We arrived at Wanganui City about two P. M., 
 having traveled, in these two days, about one hundred and 
 fifty miles down one of the most beautiful rivers in the 
 world. The bluffs on either side are nearly perpendicular, 
 and usually from one hundred to one thousand feet high; 
 the river is small and narrow and is a veritable gorge most 
 of its length. The bluffs are covered with semi-tropical 
 verdure of a dark green, and lovely tree ferns, which grow 
 in greatest profusion everywhere along this river.
 
 We were favored with two bright sunny clays for this 
 trip, and found it extremely interesting and exciting; the 
 views were so grand and beautiful all the way, that we 
 were on the alert every moment, trying to see it all, and 
 also trying to get as many snap-shot photographs as 
 possible. It is the most beautiful scenery in New Zealand, 
 and should not be missed by anyone visiting this country. 
 
 From Wanganui City, we went by railway through a 
 fine farming country to Wellington, at the south end of 
 the North Island, and that night took the new Turbine 
 Steamer Maheno, for the South. This gave us but a few 
 hours in which to visit this beautiful young city, which is 
 the capital of New Zealand. It is built mostly on the low 
 ground bordering the harbor, and is surrounded by hills 
 from five hundred to one thousand feet high. We took a 
 carriage drive over most of the city and were surprised to 
 see so many beautiful public buildings and fine homes with 
 extensive lawns about them. There is a cable railway here, 
 which carried us to the top of a very steep hill about five 
 hundred feet high (one car going down pulls the other up, 
 with a little assistance from a stationary engine.) The 
 view from the top of this hill overlooks the city and harbor, 
 and is grand; the harbor is large and deep. The largest 
 vessels come alongside the dock, and the shipping business 
 done here is large. In fact, the traffic done by steamers 
 around the coast cities is much larger than one would 
 expect, probably because the harbors are good and vessels 
 make good time and have been in use many years, while 
 the facilities for travel by railway are comparatively new, 
 and but few railroads are built as yet. 
 
 Leaving Wellington at night, next morning we awoke 
 in Lyttleton, which is the port for CHRIST CHURCH. Here 
 
 53
 
 WAIROA GEYSER, WHAKAREWAREWA, NEW ZEALAND.
 
 we took passage by rail, nine miles to this city. The 
 weather was stormy, so that we did not see as much of 
 this place as we desired. The residents claim that Christ 
 Church has more beautiful homes than any other city in 
 New Zealand. At any rate, it is a place to please the 
 traveler, has fine, wide streets, well paved, and does a 
 large commercial business ; as might be inferred from its 
 name, this city is well supplied with churches. The 
 population is Scotch, and the most of the churches are 
 Presbyterian. The whole city is neat and clean, and it is 
 a fine location for the International Exhibition which is in 
 progress at this time ; it is a great show, fashioned after 
 the World's Fairs we have been having in the United 
 States. The Exhibition is extraordinarily good for a 
 country so new, and a great credit to the wide-awake 
 energy of New Zealand. We had one day to spend here, 
 and could only take a bird's-eye view of the great show, 
 but were much pleased with what we saw of it: THE 
 FERNERY particularly we thought the best exhibit we had 
 ever seen of that kind ; the location and grounds are very 
 fine, and present a beautiful scene. 
 
 After spending one day at Christ Church and the 
 Fair, we left that night by the steamer Maheno for 
 DUNEDIN, where we landed early the next morning. This 
 is one of the "big four" towns of New Zealand, and is 
 also a beautiful growing city, located on a fine little 
 harbor. Our steamer, which is the largest of the Union 
 Line, comes alongside the wharf, so that her shipping 
 facilities are good, though her harbor is quite small. They 
 have a line of electric street cars, as good as the best in 
 New Zealand, also fine shipping houses and good banks. 
 The population is mostly Scotch, and their churches, or 
 
 55
 
 many of them, are Presbyterian, although they have a few 
 of other denominations. They have fine large retail stores 
 and draw trade from a long distance, as they are the 
 largest town of the south part of the Southern Island. 
 Also, they have a public park, or "Botanical Gardens," as 
 they call it, which would do credit to any city of 150,000 
 population in the United States. Here, also, the most 
 beautiful homes, with fine landscape gardens, are the rule, 
 and when we learn that all the trees, shrubbery and hedges 
 are ever-gTeen and the same all the year around, we can 
 imagine what a beautiful appearance they always have. 
 
 Dunedin is said to be the most wealthy city in Xew 
 Zealand, and is in a prosperous condition at this time. As 
 we are making a flying trip, we only spent one day here, 
 and the next day, which was Sunday, at Port Chalmers, a 
 small town on the ocean which was at one time the harbor 
 for Dunedin. Since then, the Dunedin Harbor has been 
 dredged and put in shape for the largest vessels in these 
 parts. We went to church at Port Chalmers and heard an 
 old-fashioned Scotch Presbyterian preach a good sermon. 
 
 That night, we were off again on our ship Maheno for 
 Bluff, where we landed early the next morning ; this is the 
 most southerly city in New Zealand, nearly fifty degrees 
 south latitude : it is small, but has a good harbor, also a 
 railway running to Dunedin and Christ Church. Being so 
 far south, we found it quite cold ; still, they have no frost 
 here on the coast. The population, like Christ Church 
 and Dunedin, is mostly Scotch. 
 
 The climate of Xew Zealand is generally mild, and 
 there are not so great changes in temperature as in the 
 United States. Situated in mid-ocean, between 30 and 50 
 degrees south latitude, they are able to raise almost 
 
 57
 
 anything that can be raised in the United States. Yet, 
 they do not raise much wheat, very little corn, and no 
 cotton, which are our three greatest crops. Owing to 
 their mild climate, they have greatly the advantage of us in 
 stock-raising, as all stock graze the whole year round, and 
 while they raise fine horses, yet the most of their land is 
 devoted to sheep and cattle grazing. Their chief exports 
 are wool, lamb, mutton, beef and butter ; all the meat and 
 butter is frozen and carried to Europe in that condition. 
 They have many large slaughtering and freezing establish- 
 ments, where they prepare the meat for export. They 
 have a great reputation for being fine butter makers, and 
 get high prices in Europe for their butter. 
 
 We did not have time to view the whole of the South 
 Island, and only stopped at the principal cities. Really, 
 we should have spent two weeks in the interior and on the 
 western side of the Island, as some of the grandest scenery 
 is to be seen in the mountains and lakes of South New 
 Zealand ; the central and eastern side of the Island is one 
 large undulating plateau, fully occupied with farms and 
 grazing land, said to be the largest and best body of 
 tillable land in the colony. Down the western part of the 
 Island runs the largest mountain range in this part of the 
 world ; many of these mountains are ten to fourteen 
 thousand feet high, their peaks covered all the year with 
 snow : also, interspersed between them are many of the 
 most beautiful clear, cold lakes and several large glaciers. 
 As this range of mountains rises abruptly from the 
 seashore, the view from the sea is said to be grand beyond 
 description, equal to the " Norway Fiords." Steamers 
 only visit these waters in January, which is their mid- 
 summer. At other seasons, the weather there is too 
 
 59
 
 WANGANUI RIVER, NEW ZEALAND.
 
 stormy. As these are the only high mountains in 
 Southern New Zealand, they cause the tremendous rainfall 
 of two hundred and forty inches, or twenty feet per 
 annum, on the west coast, as the rains and winds are 
 almost entirely from the west. The lower part of these 
 mountains are always covered with dense forest and green 
 verdure. The rainfall on the east side of the mountains, 
 where the farming land is located, is only about thirty-five 
 inches, and sometimes less ; in fact, this year they are 
 complaining that they did not have enough rain, still they 
 never have a drouth in New Zealand, and the whole 
 country looked like our May or June when we were there. 
 Immigration is restricted here; Chinese, Japanese 
 and all colored or Negro people are excluded. Labor 
 unions are common, and wages for labor are about the 
 same as in the United States. Living is considerably less, 
 and it would seem that the laborer should make a greater 
 saving here than with us. They have eight hours for a 
 labor day, and with Wednesday or Saturday half holiday. 
 The Government is working on the plan of giving the 
 laboring man every possible advantage, and in some parts 
 of the country they build cottages for the laborers and 
 charge them a very low rental. On account of having 
 restricted immigration, they are having much trouble now 
 to get farm hands ; this will undoubtedly check the 
 advance in farming and the opening up of new land. The 
 Government not only discourages the large land owner, 
 but, by law, they now take the large estates from the 
 owner, except a homestead of 500 acres, whether he is 
 willing or not, and pay him the appraised value thereof, 
 cut it up into small farms, and sell or lease to the small 
 farmer. We saw a complaint in one of their newspapers. 
 
 61
 
 stating that twenty years ago an Englishman came here 
 and bought 3600 acres of wild land from the Government. 
 He worked hard and cleared it up, had some years of light 
 crops, so that he has not made money until the last ten 
 years. Now, when he is doing well after having spent 
 the most valuable years of his life in making an estate and 
 home, the Government takes it from him. He thinks it an 
 injustice and will return to England forever, so that while 
 the Government aims to do the most good to the greatest 
 number, still it works a hardship on some, and is not 
 entirely satisfactory. 
 
 The Government owns nearly all public utilities in 
 New Zealand, the railroad, street cars, electric lights, 
 wagon roads, parks, banks, schools, post-office, telegraph, 
 telephones, some hotels, many improved farms, which they 
 lease out, in fact, the Government undertakes to own and 
 run nearly or quite everything that is used by the public. 
 How this will come out in the end remains to be 
 determined by years of experience. They claim that at 
 this time the railroads are earning three and a half per 
 cent on their cost of building, equipment and repairs. 
 They are better built than most of our railways : every 
 station house is well built and equipped with fine rain 
 sheds. The roads are gravel or stone ballasted, and their 
 passenger fares are much less than ours, notwith- 
 standing the fact that the roads run through hilly and 
 mountainous country and are more expensive than they 
 are usually in the United States. We did not learn what 
 the freight rates were, but the country is sparsely settled, 
 and if they earn no\v three and a half per cent, it would 
 appear that when the country is well settled up the 
 earnings will be much greater, or the rates will have to 
 
 63
 
 be reduced below their present low rates. The cost of a 
 telegraph message between any two points in New Zealand 
 is twelve and a half cents in our money. This is not more 
 than one-third our rates. The fares on tram cars, as they 
 are called here, are all less than our street car fares. Their 
 fine gravelled and graded Government wagon roads 
 are free. 
 
 Their population at present is less than one million 
 people in all, and the area of the two large Islands, called 
 the North and South Island, is about twelve hundred miles 
 long by six hundred miles wide, only about one-half of 
 which is valuable as farm or grazing land, the balance 
 being rough and mountainous. 
 
 The native trees and hedges are evergreen and do not 
 shed their leaves at any season ; this gives the country a 
 look of perpetual spring or summer. There are some 
 trees imported from England or America which shed 
 their leaves here the same as they do in their native land. 
 The Eucalyptus trees grow their leaves edgewise, but all 
 other trees grow their leaves flat surface up, same as ours. 
 
 Commerce and trade of all kinds is in the hands of the 
 English or Scotch. We saw very few other people in 
 trade. There is absolutely NO POVERTY in 'New Zealand; 
 at least none that could be seen by a casual traveler, and 
 we often heard the remark, "There is NO POVERTY in New 
 Zealand." We believe they are the most reliable and trust- 
 worthy people on the face of the earth today at least, so 
 far as our knowledge, experience and acquaintance goes. 
 We have at all times heretofore made it a rule to lock our 
 room doors in hotels at night, when asleep or in day time, 
 when away, but here it is not so. We traveled the whole 
 length of the two Islands and never locked our room doors 
 
 65
 
 at any time, day or night, after the first day, when we were 
 informed that it was not customary to do so; even a hack- 
 man will very seldom overcharge in New Zealand. 
 
 The money used in New Zealand is the English 
 coinage, both gold and silver, but their banks issue their 
 own notes; one sees very seldom a Bank of England note 
 here. If one gets any New Zealand bills while here, it is 
 better to dispose of them before leaving, as they will not 
 pass at par elsewhere. 
 
 Wild animals and fish are numerous in the Islands now, 
 but they have nearly all been brought here from England 
 or the United States. Originally, there was almost no 
 game or fish here. The Duck-billed Platipus is a native, 
 though not very plenty; it is a kind of cluck but has NO 
 WIXGS. There are no snakes or serpents of any kind on 
 these Islands. The Fish Commissioner of New Zealand 
 came down on the same steamer with us. He had been in 
 the United States for several months and secured quite a 
 cargo of fish eggs, which are to be distributed in various 
 waters of the Islands. Importation of fish eggs has been 
 going on for several years, and their waters are fairly 
 stocked with fish now. 
 
 Their public schools are about as numerous as ours, 
 and all have an opportunity to get a good education. 
 
 The crescent of the moon opens towards the NORTH 
 in all southern latitudes, while our moon crescent opens 
 to the south. This peculiarity of the moon had never been 
 brought to my attention until actual observation. 
 
 The Maoris, or colored natives, who originally occupied 
 these Islands, are still to be seen in goodly numbers 
 in many parts of the country. They are copper-colored, 
 and about half way between our North American Indian 
 
 6?
 
 and the African Negro in physical appearance. They 
 have black straight hair, are kindly disposed people and 
 are treated with the greatest consideration by the whites; 
 in fact, by the laws of New Zealand, the Maoris are to 
 always have four of their people in the New Zealand 
 legislature. They have had lands allotted to them, and live 
 in any part of the country they prefer: they have every 
 privilege that the white men have, and many of them speak 
 English. They are not good workers, but take life easy 
 and are strictly honest that is, the full bloods and will 
 not enter a white man's house when he is absent. There 
 are many mixed bloods among them however, called half- 
 caste, which have a bad reputation for honesty. 
 
 On March i8th, we sailed from Bluff the south part of 
 the South Island, on the Turbine Screw Steamer Moheno, 
 for Melbourne, Australia, distance thirteen hundred miles. 
 \Ye had often heard it reported that the Tasmanian Sea was 
 awfully rough, but we always had such pleasant sailing 
 weather that we thought we would make the trip with 
 smooth seas, as it only takes four days, and we started with 
 fine weather; however before we had gotten half way across, 
 the usual bad weather prevalent in this sea struck us, and 
 we learned what a storm at sea was. A real sure enough 
 storm came on, we tossed about badly, and the spray 
 washed over every part of the ship, coming through in the 
 social hall and first-class dining room so that everything 
 was wet in that part of the vessel, and the boat pitched and 
 rolled so badly that it was very difficult to keep the 
 dishes on the table; in fact there were but few who had any 
 desire to go to the dining room. Really the whole ship at 
 this time was about the most dreary, wet, cold and 
 uncomfortable place we had ever seen. Our party all 
 
 69
 
 proved to be very good sailors, but it was running in the 
 mind of one of us, "What did we come here for anyhow? 
 How much more pleasant it would be at home?" I here 
 insert a quotation cut from a paper in Hobart, Tasmania, 
 showing the experience of the Steamer Athenic in the same 
 storm; she came into the Hobart harbor just a few hours 
 behind us: 
 
 "Hobart, Friday. The steamer Athenic arrived here 
 last night, after a rough time off the Tasmanian coast. 
 She made a good trip from the Cape, and would have 
 reached Hobart the day before time, but on Wednesday, 
 with a fast falling barometer, the wind suddenly shifted to 
 the southwest, increasing to a whole gale, with a tremendous 
 sea and heavy rain, which continued throughout the night. 
 By half-past eight A. M., on March 2Oth, the gale had 
 increased to a storm, and the ship had arrived off 
 Maatsuyker; but conditions were most unfavorable for 
 making land, and the Athenic was hove-to till 6 A. M., on 
 March 2ist, when she made for Hobart. Captain Kempson, 
 who has been trading out here for nearly a quarter of a 
 century, states that he had never seen a bigger sea. 
 Notwithstanding the ship's great height (the captain's 
 bridge is 55 feet above the water line), the spray continually 
 broke aboard and over the bridge. The Athenic left for 
 New Zealand tonight, taking a consignment of apples for 
 Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 Also, the Ketch H. J. H. had a rough time on the trip 
 from Melbourne to Hobart. She arrived here today, in a 
 battered condition. Her decks on the voyage were 
 continually swept by heavy seas. Her bowsprit and 
 jib-boom were carried away, her main sail split, and a boat 
 washed overboard; the crew are all safe."
 
 TASMANIA. 
 
 We arrived in Hobart, Tasmania, March 2ist, after the 
 big storm, and when we got into this sheltered harbor 
 the sun was shining brightly, the harbor and surroundings 
 looked very beautiful, indeed. Hobart is one of the prettiest 
 little cities we have seen; population 55,000. all English. 
 We took a carriage and drove over the city, and were niuch 
 pleased at its appearance. The harbor is very deep and 
 wide; it is really an arm of the sea and extends inland 
 about thirty miles, Hobart is situated about ten miles 
 back from the main coast on this inlet, which is from 
 half a mile to two miles wide. At the time we were there. 
 we saw four large British battleships anchored in the har- 
 bor; one, the Powerful, lay fine for us, and we took a 
 snapshot photograph of her. 
 
 The whole country around this harbor is so beautiful 
 that it is a great pleasure to view- it, as we did, on a 
 pleasant sunshiny day, from the top of a large hill which is 
 included in the public park, or "Domain;" we thought it 
 looked much like the Hudson at the Palisades, a short dis- 
 tance above New York. 
 
 The principal source of income to the people of 
 Tasmania is their fruit crop. They raise everything in the 
 way of fruit that we do, and are justly proud of the fine 
 quality and appearance of their apples, pears, peaches and 
 grapes. The Tasmanian apples have a name in all parts of 
 New Zealand. Australia, Eastern South America and 
 Europe, as being very fine in flavor and appearance. ' One 
 old English lady who lives there told us they were "just 
 as good as English apples." They also have very fine 
 copper and tin mines, which are being worked just now 
 with great profit. 
 
 73
 
 HAWKS CRAG, BULGER GORGE. NEW ZEALAND.
 
 The island was discovered in 1642 by Tasnian, a 
 famous Dutch navigator, who gave it the name of Van 
 Dieman's Land in honor of Anthony Van Dieman. who 
 assisted him in his work, and was at that time Governor 
 General of the Dutch possessions in East India. Lieutenant 
 John Bowen, with a party of convicts from Sydney, took 
 possession of the Island for the English in 1803, and it was 
 used for a convict settlement for Great Britain until 1856, 
 when the Government was transferred to the inhabitants, 
 and its name was changed to Tasmania. 
 
 AUSTRALIA. 
 
 After a half day pleasantly spent in Hobart, we 
 departed on our way to MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA, which 
 we reached early Saturday morning, March 23rd. This is 
 a large city, about half a million population, almost 
 entirely English. It has fine wide streets, clean and well 
 paved, and is strictly "up-to-date" in all respects. The 
 harbor is excellent, being really a large river, which is so 
 built up with docks and warehouses that it has the 
 appearance of being a huge canal. This water-way is 
 several miles long, extending through the city, giving 
 Melbourne great shipping facilities. At present it is the 
 temporary capital of Australia. They have many large and 
 fine Government buildings, schools, hospitals, churches, a 
 Coney Island pleasure resort on the sea beach, electric and 
 cable tramways, public parks, etc. In fact we think it looks 
 very much like St. Louis, Missouri, or would if St. Louis 
 did not have the coal smoke, as Melbourne is a bright, 
 clean city. We took a drive over the residence district, 
 made beautiful by their architectural style, and especially by 
 
 75
 
 their handsome landscape gardens, which are not excelled 
 by any that we have seen. Everything here is evergreen, 
 and while their season at this date corresponds to our Octo- 
 ber ist, yet all these beautiful gardens and lawns look like 
 .May or June, and look that way all the year. 
 
 The state of Victoria has about 1,000,000 population, 
 and over half of them are in Melbourne, showing that the 
 country districts are sparsely settled, although this is the 
 best part of Australia. 
 
 One bright morning, we took the train for a short 
 ride of twenty miles from Melbourne to Frankston, where 
 our friends met us at the station, and drove the six miles 
 to their beautiful country home, "Moondah." This place 
 is 640 acres in extent, and we had a drive of half a mile 
 from the entrance of the grounds to the lodge. The drive 
 was through the native ''bush," which is most picturesque 
 in places. From the lodge gates, the landscape gardening 
 is in evidence the driveway lined with Golden Cypress, 
 which is kept clipped to the same height all the way and 
 there were a great many beautiful flowers blooming, mostly 
 dahlias, which grow much more luxuriantly in Australia 
 than in America. 
 
 The house is a large stone mansion, built most 
 attractively with great arched verandas on both the first 
 and second stories. It is situated on a knoll overlooking 
 the sea, and in plain view of the big ocean liners. All the 
 rooms are big and airy, particularly the billiard room, 
 which is arranged with a raised platform at the end, so that 
 it can be converted into a theatre for amateur theatricals 
 gotten up by the house parties which are often given there. 
 
 It was a most glorious day, and we enjoyed to the 
 utmost the hospitality extended to us by these Australian 
 
 77
 
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 friends. This place is a typical Australian country home, 
 and our hosts were representative of the many Australians 
 we met, who were always delightfully cordial to us, mere 
 strangers, and were always anxious to extend the hospitality 
 of their homes. I do not think there is any country in the 
 world where the people are more sincere, or more 
 universally cordial, than in this great island continent. 
 
 We left Melbourne Monday night, March 25th, by 
 railway, for Sidney, distance five hundred miles. This train 
 was made up of an observation car, which is very good for 
 this country, but does not compare with the palatial 
 observation cars in the United States, although they charge 
 four shillings (or one dollar) extra for a seat in it. The 
 others were first-class compartment cars, such as are used 
 in Europe. The track is five feet six gauge, the widest we 
 ever saw. This train runs to the state line between 
 Victoria and New South Wales, at a town called Albury. 
 Here all must change cars, as the track gauge in New 
 South Wales is four feet eight and a half inches. We 
 reached Albury at eleven o'clock at night and found a 
 train of sleeping cars awaiting us. These were better than 
 we had expected to find in Australia, being cross section 
 compartment sleepers, comfortable, but small. One end of 
 the sleeper is set apart for ladies, and the other end for 
 men. This train took us through to Sidney, where we 
 arrived at eleven o'clock in the morning. Time averaged 
 twenty-eight miles per hour for the best and fastest train 
 on the continent. 
 
 All the railroads in Australia are built by the different 
 states, and are better built that ours, being well laid with 
 good, heavy rails, and rock ballasted. Each state has a 
 different track gauge. Victoria state railways are five feet 
 
 79
 
 six inches, New South Wales four feet eight and one-half 
 inches, Queensland three feet six inches. This prevents 
 one road from getting the cars belonging to another and 
 using them for an indefinite period, as they do in the 
 United States. Of course, it forces the reloading of all 
 passengers and freight at each state line, and much delay, 
 but they do not seem to think that of much importance. 
 In fact, each state has its own large seaport city, and most 
 of the shipping is done by sea. We traversed, on the trip 
 from Melbourne to Sidney, a poor country with thin soil, 
 slightly undulating; it lays well enough to make good 
 farming land, if the soil was good. This part of the 
 country is given up to grazing cattle and sheep, and that 
 near Melbourne is so dry at present that the stock find 
 very little to eat, and water is very scarce; no scenery 
 worth looking at. 
 
 On arrival at Sidney, we left same day for Medlow 
 Bath, a beautiful summer resort seventy miles west by rail, 
 in the Blue Mountains. This is a most popular resort for 
 Sidney people in hot weather. It is 3416 feet above sea 
 level, very rough and mountainous. Mr. Mark Foy, the 
 Marshall Field of Australia, has built a beautiful hotel here, 
 called "The Hydro." It is a quarter of a mile long and 
 has a picture gallery almost the entire length, containing 
 over three hundred pictures, many of which are real works 
 of art. It also has a fine little theatre, which is used for a 
 dancing hall when needed, and a beautiful billiard room. 
 The hotel and ground is said to have cost seventy thousand 
 pounds, or three hundred and fifty thousand dollars. It 
 certainly is a great thing for the people of Sidney, and is 
 well patronized. The price of room and board is four 
 guineas per week, which looks cheap to us, being only 
 
 81
 
 about half what is charged at our summer resorts. This 
 hotel is open all the year and has much beautiful mountain 
 scenery around it. We stopped here eight days and 
 explored the country in all directions. This is the Easter 
 holiday season, and the hotel is full; the Australians have 
 four holidays for Easter, and everyone who can, skips out 
 to some place like this for rest and amusement; at the same 
 time, all the people from the surrounding country rlock 
 into Sydney to see the races, which last about ten days. 
 Business is entirely suspended, and it is just as well to be 
 jolly and happy with the crowd, as you cannot transact any 
 business at such times. As we are on a pleasure trip, it is 
 all the same to us. 
 
 I have told you of the immense size of the hotel: well, 
 I went to church on Easter Sunday at the smallest church 
 building I ever saw, if not the smallest in the world. It 
 was certainly in great contrast with the hotel size 16x24 
 and it was not crowded. There were twenty-six persons 
 at the service, including the preacher and the organist; the 
 Church of England service and sermon was very good. I 
 trust the final division of the sheep and goats will not be on 
 the basis of the size of these two buildings. 
 
 This hotel is considered a great show place, and 
 visitors come from all this part of the country to see it; a 
 shilling each person is charged for a "view permit" to see 
 the pictures and grounds. They have a farm which 
 supplies the vegetables for the hotel; it is in plain view from 
 the hotel, but far below us in the valley. A wire rope 
 brings the eatables from the farm to the hotel; it takes a 
 walk of three miles to get down to the farm and a drive of 
 seven miles to get back. The drive back from Valley 
 Farm is the most picturesque around Medlow Bath; nearly 
 
 83
 
 all the way the road winds through a deep gorge, with the 
 cliffs rising high on either side. On each side of the road 
 are wonderful tree ferns, some of which grow to a height 
 of twenty or thirty feet; there are many different kinds of 
 fern here, the small kind that we have entirely covering 
 the ground. 
 
 This whole country, for many miles, is covered with 
 Eucalyptus forest trees, called "Gum" trees by the natives; 
 in fact it is the most common tree in Australia, as well as 
 New Zealand, and it is most peculiar to us, as the leaves 
 hang edgewise instead of flat, like other trees, and it sheds 
 its bark every year, giving the trunk and limbs a bare and 
 uncanny appearance in autumn. It makes good firewood 
 and is used for fences, but is good for nothing for lumber. 
 
 Govetts Leap is about five miles from the Hydro Hotel 
 and is a grand view, with abrupt cliffs about one thousand 
 feet high. Wentworth Falls, ten miles from the hotel, is 
 another beautiful scenic place; the view around these Falls 
 is enchanting. There is another trip to the caves forty-five 
 miles up and down the mountains, which is said to be very 
 fine, but we did not have time to go there. 
 
 We used automobiles for our trips around this part of 
 the country; as the roads are very finely graded and 
 macadamized; these roads were built by convicts sent out 
 from England nearly a century ago. 
 
 After enjoying a very pleasant visit at this very popular 
 summer resort, and meeting many delightful people from 
 various Australian points, we returned for a week in the city. 
 
 Sydney is the greatest city in this part of the world, 
 about one century old, and has a population at present 
 over 600,000. We had fine weather while there, neither 
 too hot nor too cold about like the latter part of 
 
 85
 
 September in our country. The Easter holiday sports 
 filled the city from all "parts of New South Wales, the races 
 being the greatest attraction. The race course is about 
 two miles from the central part of the city; we went there 
 on Saturday, April 6th. The grounds are the finest we 
 ever saw for races, and there is nothing fast enough to 
 please the Australian sport, except the running races. We 
 saw six races during the afternoon; the course is a WELL- 
 SODDED GRASS PLAT, one and a half miles around. One 
 was a steeple-chase over hurdles, which was very disastrous, 
 both to the riders as well as the horses. Five horses 
 started in this race, which was one three-mile heat or twice 
 around the course; before the heat was finished, one horse 
 had fallen and broken his neck, and two others had fallen 
 and broken legs, so that they had to be shot; only two 
 horses finished. The riders, fortunately were not seriously 
 hurt. They told us it was seldom that so many horses 
 were hurt in a race, but it shows what desperate 
 racers these people are the horses are forced to their 
 utmost, without regard to consequences. 
 
 The attendance was estimated at 30,000. So far as we 
 could observe, everybody men, women and children 
 (except our family) were betting on the races. As soon 
 as one race was finished, the whole audience would desert 
 the seats, rush to the betting place, put up their money 
 and return to see the result. They think they cannot enjoy 
 the race unless they have something at risk; it seems to be 
 natural for these people to bet on everything. They do not 
 enjoy a social card game unless they bet on the game; if 
 they win they accept it with good grace, and if they lose, 
 they say. ''Never mind; will make it back next race" or
 
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 "next game." To us, it seemed extraordinary to see 
 the ladies betting on horse races or card games. 
 
 This race course is large and the amphitheatre, or 
 grandstand, is amply large, so that everyone is accommo- 
 dated with a good seat under shelter, without overcrowding. 
 There are eight hundred members who belong to this 
 Jockey Club. The initiation fees are one hundred pounds, 
 and the annual dues are fifty pounds. The Australians say 
 the running stock is better for their climate than the 
 trotter, but I think that the qualities of the runner do not 
 compare at all with the trotting horse for general utility 
 purposes. 
 
 Next day being Sunday, we attended the Church of 
 England, which is a large edifice, and heard a grand, good 
 sermon; subject, "Christ Driving the Money Changers Out 
 of the Temple." In his remarks, the preacher mentioned 
 that he had heard that some churches in Australia had 
 raised funds for church work by having public balls, 
 keeping the young people out nearly all night, also by 
 private theatricals, and by horse-racing. He compared 
 these ways of raising money for church work with the 
 occupation of the Temple for merchandise purposes, which 
 Christ disapproved. 
 
 The harbor of Sydney is one of the largest and best in 
 the world. Sidney people say it is the most beautiful of 
 any, and the largest except that of Rio Janeiro. The 
 entrance is between two high head-lands less than a mile 
 apart, and the coast line inside is over fifteen hundred miles 
 all deep water, so that ships of any draft can go anywhere, 
 and docks without number can be built to accommodate 
 all kinds of shipping trade. The bay or harbor is not a 
 wide, unbroken sheet of water, but is usually half a mile to 
 
 89
 
 two miles wide, and has a great number of arms cutting 
 into the mainland. Also, two small rivers empty into 
 this bay; both are deep and navigable, for the largest 
 steamers, twenty miles or more. 
 
 On this coast line is built the city of Sydney, and its 
 beautiful homes. The coast is almost always rock, and 
 rises from nothing to one hundred feet above the sea. 
 Outside the business part of the city, along the water's 
 edge, many of the most elegant homes are located, 
 surrounded by the most beautiful grounds, greatly 
 improved by the art of the landscape gardener. 
 
 We had the great pleasure of being invited to tea at 
 one of these handsome homes lying on a small promontory 
 in this never-to-be-forgotton harbor. This home covers 
 about four acres and is reached by steam ferry from the 
 central business part of Sydney in ten minutes. The 
 residence and grounds face south and east and gradually 
 rise to about fifty feet above sea level, with a private swim- 
 ming pool and boat landing at the water's edge. Two 
 landscape gardeners are continually employed to keep the 
 grounds, flowers, shrubbery and grass plots in the most 
 perfect order: being a semi-tropical climate, the whole place 
 has the appearance of perpetual Spring; this is only one of 
 a thousand such homes. We were royally treated while in 
 Sydney by many of our newly-made Australian friends. 
 One of them took us for a half day's excursion in his small 
 steam yacht, which enabled us to get a bird's-eye view of 
 this beautiful harbor and its enchanting shores. 
 
 Sydney has several very fine lines of steam ferry boats, 
 which all start from Circular Quay, and all street railways 
 start from the same place, in the heart of the business 
 district, and from this point one can reach any part of this
 
 great harbor very quickly. We counted seven large 
 British Men-of-\Var, lying at anchor, while the ocean liners 
 and freight steamers were many times too numerous to 
 count. 
 
 This harbor with its great shipping facilities, is what 
 has built up this great city, and with the greatest island 
 continent behind it, which has only just begun to expand, 
 there is not the slightest doubt of the continued prosperity 
 of Sydney. There is one unpleasant thing about this 
 harbor: its waters are infested by sharks, which cause the 
 death of several persons each year. Bathing, except within 
 fenced enclosures, is not safe; some time ago, while a 
 pleasure party were out in a yacht, a lady put her hand 
 over the side of the boat in the w-ater, and the hand was 
 snapped off by a shark. 
 
 They have a fine training ship here for boys, between 
 ten and eighteen years of age, who have been arrested for 
 misdemeanors. We visited this ship and were much 
 pleased at the appearance of the boys three hundred and 
 seventy-eight in number, and not one in the hospital, 
 which is a fine record for the commander. They are under 
 the regular navy rules; everything on the ship is neat and 
 clean, and many of the boys enlist in the navy when they 
 are discharged from the training ship. The captain showed 
 us every courtesy; he also mentioned that his boys were so 
 fond of swimming near the ship that the sharks usually got 
 one or two of them every year. 
 
 There have been several cases of bubonic plague in 
 Sydney during the last few months. The authorities are 
 very careful and keep every case which appears in a hospital 
 for this special disease, and disinfect all premises where it 
 appears. It is now on the decrease, although there were 
 
 93
 
 two new cases reported during the week we were there, 
 and we were warned to be very careful about our diet. Of 
 course, when one is a long way from home, such things do 
 not sound pleasant, and if we feel slightly indisposed for a 
 day, we begin to think perhaps we have the plague. It is 
 a deadly disease and much more feared in this part of the 
 world than cholera, yellow fever or small-pox. 
 
 We sailed from Sydney April loth, on the S. S. 
 Eastern (Captain W. G. McArthur), for Hong Kong, 
 China, regular run twenty-three days, with six stops on the 
 way. After two days, we anchored at the wharf of 
 Pinkenba, which is the port for Brisbane, nine miles up the 
 harbor by rail. This harbor is not good, the water being 
 too shallow; large steamers do not go higher than 
 Pinkenba, and cargo is brought down on lighters. 
 
 Brisbane is the capital of the state of Queensland, 
 population 125,000, a beautiful young city with a rapidly 
 developing country around it. Nearly all the sugar in 
 Australia is raised in this state; the soil is very fertile, and 
 the climate is semi-tropical. The city in appearance is 
 more like St. Joseph, Missouri, than any we have yet seen. 
 There is one peculiar thing about their homes: On account 
 of high water, which is liable to overflow the lower parts of 
 the city and suburbs, they build their houses about four to 
 six feet above the ground, on posts. They say this is also 
 more healthy than to have the houses built on the ground, 
 as the wind has free circulation under and keeps them dry 
 and cool. The water coolers here instead of using ice, 
 are hung on a rope, so that they swing in the air, which 
 has the effect of keeping the water cool. 
 
 There are a great many fine public buildings in 
 Brisbane, and the Central Railroad Station is quite as good 
 
 95
 
 as the Union Depot in St. Louis. The railways are built 
 and owned by the state and fares are much lower than with us. 
 
 We spent one day here and drove over most of the 
 city, also drove out to the home of the Supreme Court 
 Justice, whose family we had met at Medlovv Bath, where 
 we were very cordially entertained. The Judge has an 
 elegant country home with beautiful landscape gardens, 
 finely located on a hill overlooking the city. The River 
 Brisbane flows into Moreton Bay here; it is a beautiful 
 stream and is navigable for small steamers twenty-four 
 miles above the city of Brisbane. The Labor Party has 
 control in politics in Australia, and they have passed laws 
 deporting all colored laborers, and have actually deported 
 all the colored laborers that were working on the sugar 
 plantations, taken them by force and sent them to the Fiji 
 and Solomon Islands, where most of them originally came 
 from. They also passed laws giving the sugar planters six 
 pounds (or thirty dollars) per ton bounty on the sugar 
 raised, thinking this would make up for the extra wages 
 the sugar planters would have to pay for white labor: but 
 the planters are now in great trouble, as they cannot get 
 enough white labor to work in the cane fields in this 
 tropical climate. Unless these laws are changed speedily, 
 the raising of sugar cane will have to be abandoned 
 entirely. In fact, the planters say that there will never be 
 any more cane planted in Australia. 
 
 Our steamer called at Townsville for cargo, but the 
 harbor is shallow, and we were compelled to anchor some 
 distance out; the freight was brought out in small boats, or 
 lighters. 
 
 We also called at Cairns. The water there is shallow, 
 and we were compelled to anchor seven miles out to sea. 
 
 97
 
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 As the scenery there is fine, we took a small steam tug 
 and went ashore, then took the railroad and went twenty 
 miles up the mountains to the Barron Falls. This water- 
 fall is seven hundred feet high, and a beautiful sight, it is 
 the finest water-fall in Australia, has a large volume of 
 water flowing now, and this is their dry season. All the 
 scenery in this mountainous country is fine. The Barron 
 Falls are ten hundred and sixty-five feet above sea level, 
 and that is as far as we went, but the railway continues to 
 rise for many miles, and on the top of the mountains is 
 twenty-five hundred feet above sea level. We saw two 
 other water-falls which were beautiful, but the volume of 
 water flowing over them at this season is small. This is a 
 narrow gauge road, three feet six inches; the grades are steep, 
 and curves sharp; the Horseshoe Curve here is a fine sight. 
 Then there are fifteen tunnels which we passed through in our 
 twenty mile ride. This railroad has two hundred miles of 
 track in North Queensland, and does a big freight business, 
 transporting the products of mines along its lines. The) 7 
 have copper, tin, gold and silver, in good paying mines; 
 also, they raise a large amount of cane sugar, some coffee, 
 and considerable corn (they call it maize). This is a 
 tropical country, and they grow all the tropical fruits, such 
 as bananas, pine-apples, etc. The country is comparatively 
 new and will, in time be of great importance in mining and 
 agriculture, provided they change their laws so that they 
 can get colored labor to work on the plantations. Labor 
 is scarce here now, and the country will be very slow in 
 developing until the labor laws are changed. 
 
 The weather is excessively hot in Cairns, but fairly 
 pleasant when we got up in the mountains. 
 
 99
 
 \\ c called at Cooktovvn next, named in honor of the 
 great navigator. Captain Cook, who discovered all this 
 country: did not go ashore, as the harbor here is shallow, 
 and our steamer anchored quite a distance out and took 
 her cargo off in lighters. 
 
 THE GREAT BARRIER, as it is called, is a coral reef 
 extending about twelve hundred miles along this coast 
 from Brisbane to Thursday Island. At some places it is 
 only about five miles off the coast, and some places it 
 is over a hundred miles. There are many openings, where 
 ships can go through, but the ships in this trade steam 
 along the coast inside the coral reefs, and the water is 
 almost as smooth as a river. These reefs are usually out 
 of water at low tide, but most of them are covered with 
 water at high tide. 
 
 Along this coast, Neptune has forced up many rock 
 Pyramids, one or two hundred feet high, looking at a 
 distance almost exactly like Egyptian Pyramids, probably 
 to mark the location of some great submerged mountain. 
 The sea here is GREEN in color instead of the usual sea 
 blue. There are so many rocky mountain heads in this 
 channel that it is not safe for a steamer drawing twenty-four 
 feet of water, as the Eastern does at present, being heavily 
 loaded with cargo, to run during the night. Therefore, 
 we anchored two nights while in this dangerous part of the 
 ocean. It seems strange to be anchored while out to sea, 
 but there are many places here where the sea is so shallow, 
 that we found no trouble in making the anchor take hold 
 in ten to fifteen fathoms of water, and, the sea being calm, 
 we lay quite easy until daylight. 
 
 \Ye had a concert entertainment on board ship, and, 
 much to our surprise, found some pretty good talent for 
 
 101
 
 
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 singing, cake walk, dancing and comic recitations. A 
 pleasant evening was spent, and a collection of four pounds 
 was made up for the benefit of the Sailors' Home in 
 Sydney. 
 
 We counted five wrecked vessels in plain sight, as we 
 passed through this dangerous channel. Some of them 
 were wrecked many years ago, and some recently. There 
 they lie, with their blackened hulls, masts and boilers in 
 plain view, as a daily warning to the mariner to be ever on 
 the alert to avoid similar disaster. We were invited up on 
 the bridge by the Captain to get a better view; he lent us 
 field glasses to scan the horizon, but requested us to take 
 position on one side of the bridge and not to speak to him, 
 as he must give every instant of his attention to the course 
 of the ship, and his orders to the man at the wheel required 
 a change in the direction of the steamer almost every 
 moment. "Well," said the Captain, "I always heave a 
 thankful sigh of relief after passing that place." 
 
 \Ye passed a fleet of pearl fishing vessels off Thursday 
 Island (which is the most northerly point of Australia). 
 They are small sailing vessels, about sixty feet long, with 
 five men to each boat. One of these is the diver, who goes 
 down to the bottom in a diving suit with a rubber hose 
 fastened to it, so that they keep him supplied with fresh 
 air by use of an air pump, also an apparatus to haul him up 
 whenever he gives the signal that he wishes to come to the 
 surface. In these waters where pearl fishing is going on, 
 the sea is from thirty to one hundred and twenty feet deep, 
 and the diver can remain under water ten hours a day if he 
 chooses to do so. He creeps along on his hands and feet 
 with his face about two feet from the bottom, searching for 
 pearl shells. These are brought to the surface and opened 
 
 103
 
 in search for pearls. The shells are also sold for a good 
 price; at present they sell for one hundred and fifty pounds 
 (or seven hundred and fifty dollars) per ton. The value 
 of the pearls themselves may be very small or very large, 
 all depending on the luck they have in finding pearls. These 
 pearl fisheries are not nearly as productive now as they 
 were several years ago, as they have been pretty well fished 
 out. Occasionally a diver is fortunate enough to find a 
 very fine, large pearl which sells in the London market 
 for two thousand to five thousand dollars, but such finds 
 are extremely rare. Although there are plenty of sharks 
 here, they will not attack a diver in his suit. 
 
 After rounding Thursday Island Light-house, we 
 steamed almost directly west across Carpentaria Gulf, about 
 five hundred miles to Port Darwin, the most northwesterly 
 point in Australia. 
 
 On April 2Oth, our fellow traveler. Colonel A. H. 
 Kellogg, of Brooklyn, N. Y., who has been one of our 
 party since leaving San Francisco, celebrated his sixty- 
 seventh birthday. The passengers gave him a fine dinner, 
 having the usual birthday cake, with lighted candles and 
 the United States Flag in the center, and played Dixie and 
 Yankee Doodle on the piano, giving three rousing cheers 
 for the Colonel and one for the United States. One of our 
 passengers, Mr. H. Seal, of Australia, who is a natural 
 born artist, but not a professional, drew a comic sketch, 
 showing the Colonel on horseback, which was presented to 
 and will be highly prized by him. 
 
 Last November, the S. S. Australian, belonging to 
 this line, and a sister ship to the S. S. Eastern, on which 
 we are now sailing, was wrecked one hundred and twenty 
 miles north-east of Port Darwin. This northwest coast of 
 
 105
 
 Australia has the most terrific tides, rising from twenty- 
 seven to thirty feet. What is the cause of this tremendous 
 tide, we have not been able to learn. The Australian, 
 which was running in the night, and too near the coast, 
 was swept on the rocks by this great incoming tide. A 
 big hole was stove in near her bow, and another near her 
 stern. Fortunately, there was no loss of life. Part of the 
 crew and passengers rowed to shore, about a mile distant, 
 that night, part remaining on board and were taken off 
 next morning. That part of the cargo which was not 
 ruined by water has since been taken off, but the ship still 
 lies upright and has not been broken up, although she has 
 been swept by the waves and tides for the past five months. 
 Our Captain says possibly she might have been floated again 
 if she was nearer to ports which have appliances for doing 
 such work, but it is twenty-five hundred miles to Sydney, 
 Australia, and same distance to Hong Kong, China, and the 
 expense of bringing wrecking boats so great a distance has 
 prevented an effort being made to float her. It is likely 
 that she will remain where she is for years, another 
 constant and unpleasant reminder to all mariners who sail 
 this coast to be on the alert to avoid a similar fate. 
 
 We arrived at Port Darwin, Sunday night, April 2ist, 
 and landed early in the morning, Monday, to look over the 
 town while the S. S. Eastern discharged about eighty tons 
 of her cargo. This harbor is fine; we tied up alongside the 
 wharf at low tide. The town is called Palmerston and is 
 beautifully situated on land about a hundred feet above the 
 sea level. Located only eleven degrees south of the 
 Equator, they have real tropical weather and raise all the 
 tropical fruits and vegetation. The place is situated on 
 the extreme northwest corner of Australia and is quite new. 
 
 107
 
 as compared with the eastern part of the continent. They 
 have a railroad running back one hundred and fifty miles 
 into the interior, but it is not overloaded with business and 
 only runs trains twice a week. They have fine tin mines 
 here, also some copper and gold mines; although the 
 weather is intensely hot, the people told us that the place 
 was healthy. 
 
 There are many Chinese laborers here, and we saw 
 many Aborigines, or the people who inhabited Australia 
 before its occupation by the English. They are negroes, 
 much like the African negro, but not as robust in 
 appearance, and of very low order of intelligence. As this 
 part of the country is very sparcely settled by whites, 
 the most of these native negroes have drifted to this 
 section. The Government does not give them as much 
 consideration as we have given our Indians; they give them 
 a blanket each, every year, and a little food once a year, 
 not enough to last them long; however, the weather is 
 warm, and they do not need much clothing, so they exist 
 with very little assistance; their numbers are becoming less 
 every year; they will not work. 
 
 The most of this part of Australia is given up to 
 grazing; there are many cattle on these ranges, and in this 
 part they are not so much troubled with drouth, as they 
 are further south. One cattleman who lives near 
 Palmerstown told me that they DRIVE their cattle to Sydney 
 to market, and that they are just now starting the fat 
 cattle to Sydney, as this is the cool part of the year and 
 they stand the drive better than in summer, as it is fifteen 
 hundred miles by land to Sydney. The drive must be a big 
 undertaking; they ought to ship them on steamers. 
 
 109
 
 They have a great many wild buffaloes in this part of 
 the country; these are not like our buffaloes, but like 
 the Egyptian and India buffalo cows, which they use in 
 Egypt as milk cows, and work cattle, called water-buffalo; 
 they are not native to this country, but have been brought 
 here. The kangaroo is a native wild animal to be found in 
 all wild parts of the country. There are a great many in 
 this section good, big fellows, as large as a six-foot man. 
 Australia also has a very large bird, much the size and 
 appearance of the ostrich; they call it the Emu. They have 
 no value, as their feathers are worthless; the Aborigines eat 
 their flesh, but it is not considered fit to eat by white 
 people. 
 
 The exports from this great continent are principally 
 wool, frozen mutton, beef, wheat, gold, tin and copper. 
 Their gold production last year was sixteen million pounds 
 sterling, making them the third largest gold producers in 
 the world, only Africa and the United States being ahead 
 of them, and their gold production is increasing. Australia, 
 being only about one hundred years since first settled by 
 the English, is comparatively small in manufactures. Most 
 of her manufactured articles are brought from Europe. 
 England furnishes the largest part of her imports, and the 
 United States comes second; most of their agricultural 
 machinery comes from the United States. 
 
 The commonwealth of Australia is divided into six 
 states, viz: New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia. 
 Western Australia, Queensland and Tasmania. These were 
 each separate colonies of Great Britain until about six 
 years ago, when they were permitted to form a Federal 
 Government. In many respects, they have followed the 
 forms adopted by the United States, but the home 
 
 in
 
 Government of England appoints the Governor of each 
 state, and the Federal Governor of the whole. Each state 
 elects by vote of the people five Senators to the Federal 
 Congress, and the Representatives, or Congressmen, are 
 elected on a population basis. They have not yet built 
 their Federal Capitol buildings, in fact, they have not yet 
 decided where their permanent Capitol is to be located: 
 at present, the seat of the Federal Government is 
 temporarily located at Melbourne, and there is considerable 
 strife between Melbourne and Sydney as to where the 
 capitol shall be located. 
 
 Each state has its own banks, which issue their own 
 bank notes, but the notes or bills issued in one state, are not 
 good in any other state. To illustrate, while we were in 
 Melbourne, we used bank bills issued in the state of 
 Victoria, but before going to Sydney we must exchange 
 any of these bills we had on hand for gold sovereigns, 
 - for if we take the Melbourne money to Sydney, we would 
 have to immediately go to the Sydney banks and pay a 
 discount to exchange it for Sydney money. 
 
 Australia uses the English coins of gold, silver and 
 copper. The people are nearly all English or their 
 descendents, and are to-day more like people of the United 
 States than any other people in the world. They are 
 energetic and pushing in business, and very hospitable. 
 \Ye have never had so much cordial entertainment extended 
 to us by any people outside of our own country. Although 
 we have only been in this great island continent one month, 
 yet we formed many most pleasant acquaintances, which we 
 hope to see some day in the United States. 
 
 The commonwealth of Australia at present has a 
 population of less than four millions and good territory
 
 enough to support twenty millions without crowding. Part 
 of her territory is subject to such severe and long protracted 
 droughts that her progress has been retarded. Her people 
 can to some extent, avoid loss by droughts, by sinking 
 artesian wells, by irrigation, and by putting up hay to 
 feed their stock in such emergencies. The labor laws are at 
 present greatly retarding the progress of this great country; 
 eventually, these laws will, without doubt, be set right, so 
 that labor can be brought here under proper restrictions, 
 and when that is done, Australia will make more rapid 
 progress than has ever been dreamed of by her most 
 wide-awake citizens. The climate is so delightful, and the 
 soil so productive, that when they get plenty of labor and 
 plenty of water, their permanent prosperity will be assured. 
 Our Panama canal, when built, will be of untold benefit 
 to both Australia and New Zealand. It will be much the 
 shortest and quickest route to London. The Oceanic 
 Steamship Company, which has been running between San 
 Francisco and Sydney, Australia, for several years, have 
 decided to discontinue the line, as they did not get a 
 subsidy from Congress, which they claim they should have 
 for carrying the mail. New Zealand has been giving them 
 one hundred thousand dollars per year for carrying their 
 mails. \Ye should have a first class steamship line in this 
 trade, and it should belong to the United States and carry 
 our flag. A subsidy should be given them, enough to 
 justify good steamships, quick and regular runs, as Australia 
 and New Zealand will continue to increase their trade with 
 the United States, if we give them the proper facilities. 
 Being new countries, they would be great customers for 
 us in the future. However, if, we have no steamship line 
 
 1 1
 
 between Frisco and Sydney, this trade will be mostly 
 diverted to other countries. 
 
 We have often heard of "flying fish" but never saw 
 them until coming here; we thought they did not really fly, 
 but JUMPED out of the water a few feet. In fact, they are 
 a small silver-colored fish, from six to eight inches long 
 and have wings about half their length. They jump out of 
 the water and fly along quite near the surface, sometimes 
 one hundred feet, and sometimes as much as one thousand 
 feet. Many of them fly in a bunch, but usually singly. 
 
 We crossed the Equator, April 25th; the Captain blew 
 the steamer whistle to let us all know when we crossed it; 
 but the sea was as placid as a mill pond, so that we did not 
 feel the "bump" which is usually felt in crossing the 
 equator(?) Speaking of "placid sea," we have been jogging 
 along on this steamer from Sydney to Manila, four thousand 
 five hundred miles, for three weeks without the slightest 
 swell. I never saw so calm an ocean many days so 
 smooth it is glassy, and reflects the clouds hanging lazily 
 in the horizon; no breeze except that made by the headway 
 of our vessel; weather warm enough for thinnest clothing; 
 still, we keep fairly comfortable by getting on the shady 
 side. With such a lazy boat, on such a lazy sea, what could 
 be more ideal for a lazy man? 
 
 There are so many islands on this course that we have 
 only been out of sight of land one day. We have fifty 
 first-class passengers, who are pleasant fellow-travelers, 
 twenty second-class and two hundred Chinese coolies in 
 the steerage. These Chinese are rather interesting to us, 
 as they are the first we have seen that is to notice their 
 customs. They are as cleanly in appearance as the usual 
 
 117
 
 BARRON FAL.US, AUSTRALIA. 700 FEET HIGH.
 
 steerage passengers on Atlantic liners, but they are all 
 gamblers and spend the most of their time in gambling 
 with dominoes; they enjoy it greatly, and talk and laugh 
 very much; they are as noisy as a lot of magpies. We 
 notice them at their meals, eating with chopsticks. They 
 eat boiled rice as their principal diet at every meal, and 
 three vegetables. At some meals they have meat; each 
 Chinaman has his individual bowl, holding about a quart; 
 this he fills from the tub of rice. They sit on their legs on 
 the floor in bunches of about half a dozen in a circle, having 
 the vegetables in pans in the center of the circle. Each 
 then proceeds to shovel from his bowl into his mouth as 
 much rice as his mouth will hold, then they each dip their 
 chopsticks in the pans and take a mouthful of vegetables or 
 meat, if they have any, and so continue until their meal is 
 finished. The crew are all Chinese, and they do their work 
 quietly and satisfactorily. Nearly all the steamers that 
 touch at China ports use only Chinese for seamen. Not 
 long since, Australia and New Zealand have passed laws 
 prohibiting all Asiatics from entering their countries, 
 except when a bounty of one hundred pounds (or five 
 hundred dollars) is paid, and that is equal to prohibiting 
 their coming into the country, but they did not deport 
 those who were already in the country, so that there are in 
 some parts of Australia, many Chinese coolies, or laborers, 
 at this time. They are keen after the money, and, labor 
 being so scarce, they get good wages, same as the w r hite 
 men, usually seven shillings (or one dollar and .seventy-five 
 cents) per day. Many of them have small garden farms, 
 raising vegetables near the cities. They are very econom- 
 ical, living on about one-fifth the expense of a white man. 
 
 119
 
 and. when they are old, they invariably go back to China to 
 die, and if they die while away from China, their bones are 
 sent home for interment. 
 
 PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 
 
 The first glimpse we had of the Philippine Islands was 
 in passing through the Basilan strait, where we \vere 
 quite close to shore and saw the town of Zamboangi, on 
 the Island of Mindanao (which is about one hundred miles 
 northeast of the great Island of Borneo). A small number 
 of United States soldiers are stationed here; we did not 
 stop, but could easily see "Old Glory" flying on the flag- 
 pole over the parade grounds. 
 
 "Oh! of course I don't always rave, 
 Whenever I see the old flag wave," 
 
 but it's the emblem of the land I love, and looks mighty 
 good to me, especially when I haven't seen it for three 
 months. 
 
 The country around Zamboangi looks better tnan any 
 we have seen since leaving Australia, and we have seen 
 islands almost without number. This part of Mindanao 
 Island is covered with cocoa-nut groves, and the ground is 
 kept clean of undergrowth; further back, the mountains rise 
 to a height of ten or fifteen hundred feet, and are planted 
 half way up with banana trees, all being deepest green, 
 which makes a very pretty picture. 
 
 About forty miles south of Manila, we passed Mt. 
 Halcon, 8865 feet high, situated not far from shore. The 
 top is high above the clouds, which hang lazily half way up 
 
 121
 
 its side. This is the highest mountain in this part of the 
 Philippines, and is a fine sight, as it is covered with green 
 verdure to the top. 
 
 We anchored in Manila Bay, about two miles out from 
 the city. This bay is almost like an ocean, as it is about 
 forty miles wide. The water is usually about one hundred 
 feet deep, but is shallow near Manila, so that boats carrying 
 large amount of cargo have to anchor well out and unload 
 into lighters. 
 
 We were at Manila, the so-called ''Pearl of the Orient," 
 or the "Venice of the Far East," April 2Qth and 3Oth. 
 This is the greatest city in the Philippines, and the capitol; 
 population 265,000, mostly Philippines, a few Chinese, and 
 other nationalities, also the headquarters for the U. S. 
 army and navy, which are stationed in this archipelago. 
 It is a better place than we expected to see. The original 
 city lies on the south bank of the Pasig river, and is 
 surrounded by an old Spanish wall built of stone, about 
 thirty feet high, but the most of the business is on the north 
 side of the river. Nearly all the Business buildings are two 
 stories high. The oldest are built of stone, but those built 
 during the last few years have the lower story built of stone 
 and the upper story of wood, that they may the better stand 
 the earthquakes. In these buildings, the upper stories are 
 used as residences. There are many pretty looking 
 residences in the suburbs, surrounded by tropical trees and 
 gardens, mostly occupied by Spaniards or their descendants. 
 They are built of stone the first story, and wood second 
 story, with tile or galvanized iron roof. The native homes, 
 however, are usually built of wood the first story (and 
 frequently on wood posts about six feet above the ground, 
 for free air circulation under the house), and the second 
 
 123
 
 MID-DAY STREET SCENE, MANILA, PHILIPPINES. TOO HOT IN THE SUN.
 
 story of bamboo poles thatched with grass, and roof made 
 of same materials. Sometimes the whole house is made of 
 this material. Nearly all the poorer houses are one story 
 high, made of bamboo poles thatched with grass. They 
 keep out the sun and rain if kept in good repair, but we 
 saw many which were sadly in need of repairs. 
 
 On April i8th, just eleven days before we were at 
 Manila, they had a severe earthquake, which lasted fifty 
 minutes and did much damage by cracking buildings. 
 Fortunately, no one was killed, and no buildings were 
 thrown down. Earthquakes are frequent here. It is one 
 of the hot places of the earth; temperature ranges 75 to 96 
 degrees. It was 94 the two days we were there, and 
 humidity great, which makes it too hot for exertion until 
 the sun goes down. Then everyone who can, goes out on 
 the Ltineta, a very pretty drive alongside the City Park, 
 and the barracks. The bands play in the park, and the 
 whole populace, as well as our soldiers, come out for a 
 little fresh air and recreation, and drive, walk or sit, until 
 about eight p. m. when it is time to go home for dinner. 
 
 We were at the Metropole Hotel, the best in the city 
 at this time, only been open about a month and has the 
 merit of being clean, but the cooking is Spanish, and if 
 there is any kind of cooking that is always bad without any 
 exception, it is the Spanish. The beds are bamboo frames 
 with a light cotton pad about two inches thick for a 
 mattress, and awfully hard: yet 1 was tired and could have 
 slept had it not been for the mosquitos, as I had a 
 revolving fan overhead, which ran all night, and made a 
 little breeze. The Philippine servant carefully placed the 
 mosquito net and tucked it under the mattress all around. 
 I guessed that we would have trouble, and, when ready for 
 
 125
 
 bed, made a quick rush and flank movement, intending to 
 leave Mr. Mosquito on the outside, but it was no use, as 
 this insect knows the ways of humanity and made it a point 
 that we should not be separated. He does not make any 
 great noise about what he can do, but quietly and 
 persistently does his best to make it lively for his victim. 
 I have fought mosquitos in temperate climes where we 
 always have frost every winter and kill off the old ones, so 
 that we only have one season's crop at a time, but here 
 these insects never die, unless by chance one can hit them 
 a good heavy blow; therefore, we had them of all ages and 
 sizes, from the ordinary yearling up to the ninety-nine year 
 full-grown driller, and a solid army of them. I thought I 
 could reduce their numbers by a good long fight, but in 
 the end, had to give it up; they were too many for me. 
 
 Manila is in latitude fifteen degrees north, and has an 
 annual rainfall of eighty to ninety inches. The rain begins 
 about June first and continues most of the time until 
 December. From December first to June first is their dry 
 season, and during this time they have almost no rain. 
 
 Since the United States have taken charge of the 
 Philippines, they have done much for Manila, by building 
 good streets with pavements and keeping them clean, and 
 have built many sewers. They are still building se\vers, 
 and have made the city quite a healthy place, as compared 
 with what it was in old times under Spanish rule. We did 
 not hear of any cholera or plague in the city while we were 
 there, and if any contagious diseases were at that time in 
 existence, they were so well under control, as to be no 
 menace to the general health of the city. 
 
 A tramway, or electric street railway, has recently 
 been built out to Fort McKinley, six miles, where our 
 
 127
 
 government is doing a great and good work in building 
 permanent barracks for our soldiers, on high ground 
 (Manila is perfectly flat), where they will have good 
 sewerage and good air, and will, without doubt, be of 
 great benefit to the health of our soldier boys. 
 
 A fine electric tramway runs to all important parts of 
 the city, fare twelve centavos (equal to six cents) for first- 
 class and ten centavos, second-class; Philippine motormen 
 and conductors and very good service. All the policemen 
 of Manila are Americans, dressed in the army uniform 
 fine large men and the most polite, accommodating police- 
 men I have ever met. 
 
 There are several fine bridges over the Pasig River, 
 which is navigable for many miles above the city. In the 
 American quarter, there are several American stores, which 
 carry fair stocks of goods, handled same way as in the 
 United States, with good sized store rooms and plate glass 
 show windows, and clerks wearing shirts and trousers, but 
 the principal business of the city is done in small shops, size 
 about ten feet \vide and twelve feet deep, mostly by Chinese 
 and native Philippines, and their clerks are half naked; in 
 fact, the most of them only wear trousers and sandals while 
 waiting on their trade. There are a few shops owned by 
 Germans, Spanish and English, where the proprietors wear 
 European dress and the clerks wear shirts and trousers, but 
 these are few, and their stocks are small; in fact there is no 
 need of anything in this climate but the thinnest clothing, 
 and not much of that, so that the dry goods shops cannot 
 have a big business. The most of the trade is in groceries, 
 coffee, wines, tinware, crockery, hardware, rope, etc., 
 usually only one class of goods in each store. 
 
 129
 
 The Philippine Islands are extraordinarily fertile. 
 With heavy rainfall and tropical heat, they raise great crops 
 of sugar, rice, coffee, fruit, hemp and tobacco, also there is 
 much heavy timber here, which will sometime be of great 
 value. The principal exports at present are sugar, cigars 
 and hemp. 
 
 The Philippine pony is a first-class wiry little horse, 
 about seven or eight hundred pounds in weight. He is a 
 good pony for the saddle and is the only animal used for 
 driving, mostly driven single to a two-wheeled cart. Some 
 very nice pony teams are driven to a light four-wheeled 
 Victoria. They give good satisfaction and move along at 
 a good pace for this hot country, The beast of burden for 
 heavy loads and all kinds of farm work is the water-buffalo, 
 a large animal about tenor fifteen hundred pounds in weight, 
 with a hide like a rhinoceros, and horns growing side-wise 
 and turning back, frequently five or six feet across. In the 
 city, he is usually hitched in shafts, with a crooked stick 
 across his neck for a yoke, and a strap hitched to his nose as 
 a rein, and worked to a two- wheeled dray. He is patient 
 and moves very slow, and the same can be said of his 
 driver; they make a good team, never in a hurry, but get 
 there some time, and it is too hot to hurry or worry. This 
 animal does good work in the hottest weather, but must be 
 unhitched part of the day to roll in the water and mud. 
 When permitted, he will lie in the water with his head only 
 sticking out, and is perfectly contented. 
 
 As we passed out of Manila Bay, we saw four of our 
 fine battle ships, each with four funnels, anchored near 
 Cavite, about six and a half miles west of Manila. That is 
 where the Spanish fleet lay when our gallant hero, Dewey. 
 annihilated it nine years ago. We passed out through the
 
 regular channel just to the north of a big fort on a fine eleva- 
 tion of two hundred feet, standing directly at the entrance 
 to the bay. The channel here was filled with submerged 
 mines at that time, and Commodore Dewey, having a pilot 
 who was well acquainted with these waters, went in 
 through a small channel south of the fort and very close to 
 it. This narrow channel, it is said, was not mined, and the 
 Commodore slipped in very early in the morning before the 
 Commander of the fort comprehended what was going on. 
 Our Government has placed schools in parts of the 
 Philippines, where it is safe to do so, and are teaching 
 the English language and trying to make the .native 
 Philippine fit for self-government. When this object will 
 be attained is hard to foretell. These natives are not 
 inclined to work, and insist on payment for their labor 
 before the work is done. Many capitalists have ventured 
 at different times to start plantations in these islands, 
 "where every prospect pleases and only man is vile," and 
 have suffered great loss because of lack of labor. While 
 those natives near Manila are rather intelligent, after many 
 years contact with the Spanish, and the last nine years 
 with our own people, still, taken as a whole, it would be 
 folly to expect them to be self-governing at this time. The 
 natives of the interior would rather fight than work. One 
 of these natives, who had been captured recently while in 
 warfare against our army, was asked what he was fighting 
 for. Reply, "Am fighting for my country." Question, 
 "What country is yours?" Reply, "I don't know." 
 Another \vas asked what he was fighting for. Reply, "Am 
 fighting because of the land tax." Question, "Have you 
 any land?" Reply. "No." It would seem that such people 
 as these have not sufficient civilization and education to be 
 
 133
 
 self-governing, and such schemers as Aguinalclo can easily 
 stir them up to armed resistance to the United States, who 
 are doing so much for them. We should at the earliest 
 possible time give these Philippines their independence, 
 and let them govern themselves under a Republican form 
 of government, but when will they be fit to entrust the 
 governing power to them? It now looks like it would be 
 several years, and in the meantime, our Uncle Sam is 
 spending the lives of many of his soldiers and many 
 millions of dollars every year, for no return either now or 
 in the future, except for the civilizing of these poor, 
 ignorant people. ARE THEY WORTH THIS GREAT SACRIFICE? 
 The climate is such that our soldiers cannot live here 
 without much sacrifice of life by sickness. Really it is not 
 a white man's country. No white man can stand the heavy 
 work of a laborer here: at least, but a short time. Still, we 
 have the Philippines, and how can we honorably get them 
 off our hands? I think we should gradually make soldiers 
 of them, under white officers, starting with one regiment of 
 Philippines, picked from those best educated and civilized, 
 and increase their number as they seemed to be suited for 
 soldiers, until all the army in the Philippines would be 
 natives, with white officers, except perhaps one regiment; 
 and change the laws regarding this country, so that 
 Chinese laborers can be imported to work under competent 
 direction, no Chinese to become permanent residents, but 
 to be returned to China when his labor contract expires. 
 The Chinamen are good workers, and they would in 
 time greatly improve the country. Two hundred thousand 
 Chinese laborers could readily be had on contract, and in 
 ten years they would make a different country of the 
 Philippines. Perhaps, by the end of ten years, the natives
 
 r 
 
 ; x /A , 
 
 i\- ^"* *.~ ' * 11- 
 
 EXHIBITION OF CRIMINAL IN "THE STOCKS," STREETS OF HONG KONG.
 
 would begin to work, after having a good example before 
 them. Also, take the brightest of the natives and send 
 them to the United States and educate them thoroughly in 
 our schools in large numbers, then return them to the 
 Philippines: and make school teachers, native officers and 
 Philippine congressmen of them. If our Government would 
 persevere along this line long enough, we could entirely 
 withdraw from these islands with credit to ourselves, and, 
 we might hope, with great benefit to the Philippines, but 
 it would require years to accomplish this much-desired end. 
 Another thing: The United States should at once 
 abolish all custom duties on the products of the Philippines 
 when imported into our country. This would greatly 
 assist in the development of the country, and would be a 
 long step toward the final independence of these islands. 
 It would not ruin the sugar planters of Hawaii, or the 
 tobacco growers of the United States, as these commodities 
 are not at present raised in such large quantities as to 
 overstock our markets, and our consuming power will 
 increase faster than the Philippines' ability to increase 
 their output. We should give these people a fair chance to 
 make an honest living by work. 
 
 CHINA. 
 
 We crossed the China Sea in fair weather and pleasant 
 sailing, although this sea is swept by typhoons and is nearly 
 always very tempestuous, and landed at the great city of 
 Hong Kong on May 2nd. This city and island on which 
 it is situated belongs to England. The European part of 
 the city is built up with fine stone structures from four to 
 
 137
 
 six stories high, with well paved streets, cleanly swept; it 
 looks much like the best parts of Paris. The harbor is one 
 of the best, and this is one of the largest shipping ports in 
 the world; ships ply regularly between Hong Kong and 
 nearly every important port on earth. All ships anchor 
 out in the harbor and discharge their cargo into lighters. 
 The harbor is about two miles wide and many miles long, 
 and so filled with ships that it is the busiest port I have 
 seen large ships and small ships, steamers and sailers, 
 Chinese junks and Chinese sampans, with a great number of 
 small steam launches and pleasure boats. This is a FREE 
 PORT for all nations free in every sense no duties or 
 quarantine regulations. Any ship can come and go as she 
 pleases, provided, of course, that she does not attempt to 
 trespass upon the rights of others, and the whole harbor 
 is under the British guns, which are planted in all desirable 
 places on the hills. The city is built on a narrow strip of 
 land along the south side of the harbor and extends nearly 
 half way up the side of a mountain, which rises eighteen 
 hundred feet abruptly. There is a cable tramway part of the 
 way up the side of this mountain; we went up to the end of 
 this line, then took a Sedan chair, carried by two natives, for 
 about a mile, always climbing, then walked about a quarter 
 of a mile, still climbing. When we reached the top. we 
 expected to have a fine view 7 of the city below us. but a 
 cloud interfered, so that the view of the city was not good, 
 but the view of the harbor and the other side of the island 
 was very good. The mountain tops are fortified, and the 
 position is a commanding one. They could sink any ship 
 in the harbor in a short time; I would call these fortifica- 
 tions the Gibralter of the East. 
 
 139
 
 We stopped at the Hong Kong Hotel, a large stone 
 structure in the central part of the European quarter; it 
 was filled to overflowing with English and American 
 tourists. 
 
 We saw no horses or oxen in Hong Kong. All the 
 carriage business is clone by Jinrikshas, or Sedan chairs; 
 fare, for short distances, five cents in Hong Kong money, 
 equal to two and a half cents our money. The coins used 
 in Hong Kong are called dollars and cents. They are 
 coined by England, but the coins are like the Philippine 
 money, worth just half as much as ours. The banks also 
 issue bank notes of the denominations one, five, ten and 
 fifty dollars; in these banks the Chinese are clerks, tellers 
 and cashiers. They are quick about their work, and have 
 a good reputation for ability and honesty. Whenever one 
 comes out on the sidewalk, about a dozen rickshaw men 
 run around shouting in Chinese that they desire to haul 
 you wherever you wish to go. Most of them cannot speak 
 English, and if you hire one of them you must know the 
 city well enough to know where you wish to go, and then 
 direct the rickshaw man which way you wish to turn at 
 each corner. These rickshaws are in great numbers in all 
 parts of the city. Any merchandise like boxes, barrels, or 
 casks, or material for building, such as stone, timber, or 
 any heavy freight, is placed on trucks or carts and pushed 
 or hauled by men. 
 
 The sampan is a small boat about twenty or thirty feet 
 long with a few bamboo sticks bent over the middle of the 
 boat, and covered with canvas; under this there are seats 
 for four to eight persons. The fare on a sampan is twenty 
 cents Mexican or Hong Kong money; they usually carry 
 one large sail and are manned by the whole family. One 
 
 141
 
 we were in had the father in the stern to guide the boat, 
 and two big lusty daughters to hoist the sail and pull on 
 oars, also a little daughter, FOUR YEARS OLD, with an infant 
 three months old strapped to her back. We asked the 
 father how long this little girl carried the baby: he said all 
 day. Usually, the whole family live on the sampan and 
 sail it, and there are a great number of them always ready 
 'to take you in a short time to any place in the harbor. 
 The tourist usually goes up the river from Hong Kong, 
 one night's run on the river boats, to CANTON, a purely 
 Chinese city of one and a half million population. 
 
 Upon reaching Canton, we were greeted by our 
 guides; Ah Kum and one of his sons, who were to take our 
 party of seven through the maze of Canton streets. We 
 were each seated in a Sedan chair carried by three men: 
 the streets were so narrow that we were carried one behind 
 the other, with Ah Kum in front, and his son in the rear; 
 if we met others in chairs, there was barely room to 
 scrape by. 
 
 It is impossible to really give anyone who has never 
 been in Canton any idea of this great, teeming population, 
 shut up in the little boxes of houses. The streets simply 
 look like a comic opera scene in reality, and one feels as if 
 really on the stage as a part of the setting. The tiny little 
 open shops, with their big, gaudy hangings inscribed with 
 Chinese characters, the small round-eyed children who rush 
 out when they see the foreigners, to call "Ching Ching" in 
 their soft little voices and hold out their hands beseechingly 
 the entire scene was picturesque in the extreme. There is 
 nothing to mar the real Orientalism of the place: everything 
 is so thoroughly Chinese, that one feels as if one had 
 stepped out of the nineteenth century back centuries and 
 
 143
 
 centuries. In the first few hours, we felt a little nervous; 
 one hears so many stories of the foreigners who have 
 disappeared here, etc., but after going from one narrow 
 street to another and watching the faces of the fast moving 
 population, this feeling passes away, for the people all seem 
 an orderly lot, and either paid no attention to us, or 
 greeted us with stares of curiousity, in which no malice is 
 mingled. We went to two big temples, one called the 
 "Temple of the Five Hundred Gods;" there w r e saw rows 
 and rows of big gilt gods; each person can pick out his 
 own particular god to worship. The one that interested 
 us most had an abnormally long arm, and when asked the 
 reason for it, our guide said, "He was the god that put the 
 moon up into the sky, so he needed a long arm." These 
 temples are very elaborately decorated with pottery 
 moulded into the shape of animals, men, trees and the like; 
 these decorations stand out from the wall proper and are 
 very ingenious. Another temple was dedicated to the 
 ancestors of one family; this family has now thousands of 
 members, and as they die, their names are inscribed in 
 Chinese characters on a thin strip of wood and placed in 
 pockets on the wall. Some places are more expensive than 
 others, and it depends on the wealth of the person which 
 particular part his name will be in when he dies: in this 
 Hall of the Ancestors, there is a big court, around which 
 are built numerous rooms, some of which are used for a 
 school. 
 
 We visited several shops in the morning, to see the 
 painted rice-paper pictures, the old embroideries, the linen 
 and ivory, which is all worked in Canton in the small shops 
 and houses. Visitors usually eat their lunch in the 
 five-story Pagoda, which is on the top of the highest hill. 
 
 145
 
 but the clay before our visit, there had been an explosion 
 of gun-powder, which damaged the Pagoda so much that 
 we had to eat our lunch in the Governor's picnic garden, 
 which is quite a pretty place. 
 
 After lunch, we went to see the "City of the Dead," 
 which was so terribly damaged by the explosion; this place 
 is a huge building on top of a hill, divided into small 
 rooms, built around a court full of plants and flowers; in 
 each little room is placed the coffin of some distinguished 
 personage. The explosion destroyed the roof, and we had 
 to walk around piles of debris, but everything was being 
 repaired as quickly as possible. When we asked if any 
 people were killed by this explosion, the guide said, "Very 
 few, only forty." That is the way they regard life in China. 
 We saw the famous water-clock among other things; before 
 the present day of clocks, this was the time-keeper for the 
 city; there is a huge cask full of water, and a spigot fixed 
 to it, through which a drop of water falls every second. 
 The bucket into which it falls has a float in it, inscribed 
 with Chinese characters, and this indicates the time of day; 
 at each hour, an enormous board, on which is written, in 
 Chinese, the time, is hung out on the tower so that all the 
 people may see it. We were there at twelve o'clock, just 
 as they were changing this sign; we felt as if we were back 
 in the middle ages. The only disagreeable thing was the 
 numerous unpleasant odors we encountered, but, taken as 
 a whole, the Chinese in Canton are really very clean; most 
 of them have clean faces and bright eyes. The fruit and 
 vegetables in the shops were washed clean, and we saw 
 pans and pans of little slabs of rice cake. It is an exploded 
 theory that the Chinese eat rice only. They have all sorts
 
 and kinds of food. They say, "Eat dog to make Chinaman 
 strong, eat cat to make him stronger, and eat rat to make 
 him strongest." We saw several dogs being boiled, and 
 that wasn't very attractive. 
 
 There are, however in Canton, over sixty Protestant 
 churches, many of them with regular congregations larger 
 than ours, also a fine, large hospital, costing over a hundred 
 thousand dollars, where there are over two thousand 
 surgical operations every year, and THIRTY THOUSAND 
 applications for medicine per year; also a women's hospital, 
 fully equipped, and a hospital for the insane. These 
 medical missionaries are acknowledged by all to be a great 
 power for good, and have converted great numbers who 
 would have been reached in no other way. There is a 
 small hotel here, where Europeans or Americans may stop, 
 but the best plan is to go up on the river steamers in the 
 night, see the city during the day, and come down the next 
 night to Hong Kong; you will see all you wish of Canton 
 in one day. The river steamers are very good and give 
 one good meals going either way, and leaving Canton at 
 five p. m. you have a view of the rice fields along the river, 
 and many pagodas. Their story is that whenever a 
 Chinaman gets enough of this world's goods, he undertakes 
 to do good to his fellow men by building a pagoda, and 
 builds it as high as his money will go; this has the effect of 
 bringing a blessing to his countrymen in that vicinity by 
 keeping off the insects from their crops. 
 
 In harbor at Hong Kong, a joss boat passed us, gaily 
 decked with Chinese flags, colored papers and flowers, they 
 fired a few firecrackers, had some Chinese music, and one 
 man on the bow of the boat danced. After the dancing
 
 stopped, another burnt some paper in a small bowl held on 
 the end of an iron rod; this is supposed to scare the evil 
 spirits away. 
 
 In the Chinese quarter of Hong Kong, where the 
 people are very much crowded, one Chinaman was sitting 
 with his feet in the stocks, and a placard on his breast, on 
 which was written the offense for which he was being 
 punished. For minor offenses, this may be more effective 
 than our plan of jail sentence, as public opinion evidently is 
 a matter of much importance in China, as well as in our 
 own country. Then as a punishment for serious offenses, 
 they simply cut the head off. While to us that looks like 
 a ghastly and uncivilized way of dispatching criminals, 
 I am not sure but it has a better effect than our way of 
 punishment. 
 
 We sailed on the good ship Eastern, May 5th, from 
 Hong Kong for Moji, Japan. Sorry that we did not have 
 an opportunity to stay longer in Hong Kong, but during 
 our short time in China, and our observation of the 
 Chinese there and elsewhere, for he is in almost every port 
 in this part of the world, we formed a very good opinion 
 of John Chinaman. To illustrate: While in Hong Kong, 
 a lady of my acquaintance lost her purse, containing sixty- 
 five dollars, and, of course, was much distressed about it; 
 however, she went back through the shops where she had 
 been, and when she came to the place where the purse had 
 been left, it was restored to her with entire contents. This 
 is mentioned to demonstrate the generally accepted belief 
 that Chinamen are honest. Also, he is, as a rule, quiet, 
 inoffensive and industrious. He needs the white man to 
 direct him, but is ready to do his work cheerfully. 
 
 153
 
 On our way to Japan, we cruised along the China 
 coast for two days and saw THOUSANDS of small Chinese 
 fishing boats. Sometimes there were three or four hundred 
 of these boats in sight at one time, and as much as ten or 
 fifteen miles out to sea. Usually there were four men in 
 each boat, and the fishing was done with nets; fish are the 
 the principal meat they have in China, and there is greater 
 demand than supply. 
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 Our first sight of Japan was at Moji, the western 
 entrance to the Inland sea, where we anchored in mid- 
 harbor for half a day and one. night, to take on coal. The 
 coal used by steamers here is what we would call slack in 
 the United States, but is fairly good for making steam. 
 The small boats loaded with coal come alongside, and the 
 Jap \vomen load it into the steamer. They use small 
 baskets holding about half a bushel each, and form a. line, 
 passing the baskets from one to the other, keeping a 
 continual stream of coal going into the steamer: they 
 handle the stuff quickly. 
 
 A Geisha dance having been arranged for us, we went 
 ashore at Shimionoseki and took "rickshas" to the daintiest 
 little tea-house imaginable. Before entering, we were 
 asked to remove our shoes, which we did, and were then 
 escorted by pretty tea-girls across the soft straw matting, 
 through the house and upstairs, where \ve were asked to 
 sit upon flat cushions which had been placed all around the 
 room. The rooms in a Japanese house are divided by 
 sliding rice-paper partitions, so that it is a simple matter to 
 
 157
 
 convert the whole floor into one large room. The outside 
 blinds were also pushed aside, disclosing a narrow little 
 balcony all around the house, which overlooked a miniature 
 garden filled with dwarfed trees, attractive flowers and a 
 dainty little waterfall (we afterwards found that this was 
 simply a representative tea-house, as there are many of 
 them, just as charming, all over Japan). While we were 
 looking about, the little tea-girls had been moving noise- 
 lessly around, serving their guests. Each person was first 
 supplied with a "tabako bon," a tray holding a tiny bowl 
 with live coals lying in ashes, and a section of bamboo stem. 
 This is used by smokers instead of our commonplace 
 matches and ash receivers. Then came the Japanese green 
 tea and sweetmeats, made of rice-cake and bean jelly. 
 After that, with great ceremony, they passed around the 
 "sake" or rice-brandy, which tastes and looks like the 
 weakest sherry, although it fills the air with alcoholic 
 fumes; the Japanese drink it from shallow little porcelain 
 cups that hold barely a tablespoonful. With the "sake" we 
 were served with apples and oranges, which the tea-girls 
 peeled for each guest. After we had finished eating, the 
 musicians and dancers appeared. The musicians sat in a 
 row at the back, while the dancers occupied the center of 
 the floor. They were all prettily dressed in dark kimonas, 
 ombroided in gold or light colors, with brightly colored 
 "obies," or sashes. Their blue-black hair was beautifully 
 arranged in big loops, like all the Japanese women, and 
 decorated with flowers, or colored pins. The Japanese 
 women do not wear hats or bonnets; a milliner w r ould starve 
 to death there. The Geisha dance is a series of slow, 
 gliding movements, changing from one attractive pose to 
 another. It is accompanied by wierd, slow airs, played on 
 
 159
 
 queer Japanese instruments, and a very monotonous song, 
 which explains, in Japanese, the meaning of the different 
 parts of the dance. These Geishas are professional dancers 
 and singers, and necessary to every entertainment. A 
 Geisha dances as soon as she is old enough to be taught 
 the figures, and to chant the poems which explain them. 
 When she begins to fade, she takes her place on the 
 mats to play the accompaniment for her seccessors. We 
 were much interested in it all, more particularly because 
 their ideas of a "dance" were so totally different from what 
 we expected to see. When we left, the troop of maidens 
 followed us to the entrance, and as we went down the 
 street, we heard their sweet sayonaras (farewell) ringing 
 after us. 
 
 We were all day winding through the Inland Sea, and 
 fortunately had a beautiful day for it. The fame of this 
 Inland Sea is world wide, and I do not think it has been 
 overdrawn. There are great numbers of islands so closely 
 studded together that it requires a special pilot to get 
 through safely. They are from one to five hundred feet 
 high, with little valleys between the hills, often a little 
 village and sloping sandy beach, where numbers of fishing 
 boats are drawn up on the pebbly shore. All these islands 
 are covered with green verdure, and in every available space 
 is a little patch of rice or barley. The cultivated places are 
 terraced one above the other, to the tops of the hills. 
 In places where the ship's course lay between two high 
 hills, the Japs have located forts and planted canon, so that 
 the place would be very uncomfortable for an enemy in 
 time of war. Along the ridges or tops of these highlands 
 are frequently planted a row of trees close together, which 
 gives a very artistic appearance to the landscape. There 
 
 161
 
 are some manufacturing towns scattered among these islands; 
 one has many factories with tall chimneys. On another they 
 have a dynamite factory with five large buildings and a tall 
 smoke-stack to each, and many small houses for the storage 
 of the dynamite; one of these factory towns is devoted to 
 smelting copper. The fishing industry is the most 
 important of all in these parts, and -wherever one turns, 
 there are many fishing boats in sight. 
 
 The varied island views were so beautiful that the day 
 seemed too short for us, and we regretted to spare the 
 time, even to take our meals. We arrived at Yokohama 
 on a bright, sunny Sabbath morning, and a beautiful sight 
 met us as we steamed into Yokohama Bay. This bay is 
 almost a sea in size, and when we arrived it was filled with 
 all manner of ships, large and small. Among the lot were 
 two of Uncle Sam's battleships, the Colorado and the West 
 Virginia, also one French man-of-war, as well as four 
 British men-of-war, several large passenger steamers, many 
 cargo steamers, some beautiful pleasure yachts standing 
 out to sea under full sail, and small craft too numerous to 
 count. Also, on land, looking straight away over 
 Yokohama, was the giant snow-capped mountain FUJIYAMA, 
 exactly like it looks in the many pictures of it which nearly 
 everyone has seen. Standing out boldly against the sky, 
 it is, no doubt, the most symmetrical cone shape of any 
 large mountain. It is 12,400 feet high and covered with 
 snow, except in July and August. A friend was telling us 
 of a party that recently started to climb to the top of "Old 
 Fuji." They traveled one day on the upward journey, 
 when they were caught in a snow storm and compelled to 
 camp in the storm for two days, then they were delighted 
 to get a chance to come down. In July and August, the 
 
 163
 
 ascent is made by any good mountain climbers without 
 great danger, and a great many natives then do this 
 pilgrimage. This mountain looks quite near from the bay, 
 but is seventy-five miles from Yokohama. 
 
 This city is the largest shipping port of Japan and has 
 over 300,000 population. The Grand Hotel (European), 
 where we stopped, is very finely located on the Bund, and 
 sitting on the front veranda one has a splendid view of the 
 whole harbor. There is a telescope for the use of the 
 guests, which enables one to bring the ships so close that 
 you can count the men on deck. The rooms are large and 
 comfortable, and many have bath rooms, which are the 
 first private bath rooms we have seen since leaving the 
 United States; also, there are several other good hotels here. 
 
 \\ c were glad to have an opportunity to attend the 
 Church of England service, as we had been on the steamer 
 nearly five weeks from Sydney. 
 
 I do not consider Yokohama a beautiful city, as the 
 streets are only twenty or thirty feet wide, with a few 
 exceptions, and the most of the Japanese houses are one 
 story frame buildings, although there are several new stone 
 blocks recently erected, four or five stories high. Most of 
 the streets are kept remarkably clean and frequently swept 
 and sprinkled: there are very few horses here; nearly all the 
 carriage driving is done in jinrikshas, and the most of the 
 trucks for hauling heavy loads are pulled and pushed by 
 men; man power is cheap here. The usual fare for the 
 "rikshaw" is ten "sen" for a trip, equal to five cents in our 
 money. The vehicle is quite comfortable and moves along 
 at a good fast trot on the level ground, but cannot make 
 much headway going up hills without two men one to 
 pull and one to push. How quickly these Jap rikshaw men 
 
 '65
 
 learn the tricks of our own cabmen: on going ashore, I 
 took a rikshaw for the Grand Hotel; the trip was made 
 satisfactorily; I asked the rikshaw man how much I owed 
 him, and he replied: "fifty sen," which I paid, and learned 
 afterwards that the correct fare for the trip was TEN SEN. 
 There are many quaint, pretty places about the city which 
 can be readily reached by getting a rikshaw man that can 
 speak English, and jogging about at your convenience. 
 
 Yokohama is built mostly on a level plateau, only a 
 few feet above sea level, but the European and American 
 residences are built on the bluff which rises about a 
 hundred feet high, just back of the city proper. I have 
 seen but one beggar since coming to Japan, and, strange 
 as it may seem, he was a poor drunken hobo, and an 
 American. The Japs, although most of them are in poverty, 
 are energetic and industrious, and do not beg. There is a 
 good street car line in Yokohama, but the natives usually 
 walk, and those who can afford it ride in jinrikshas. 
 
 After a few days in Yokohama, we left for Tokyo, only 
 twenty miles north by train; the railway passes through a 
 level plain, or valley, which is in the highest state of 
 cultivation, all under irrigation, much of it planted to wheat 
 and barley, which will be ready to harvest about June first. 
 There are many other crops of vegetables, and occasionally 
 a field of tea plants, which grow about three feet high and 
 look like a hardy shrub tree, also a few fields of mulberry 
 bushes, to raise leaves which they feed to silk worms; but 
 most of the tillable land here is used for growing rice, 
 which is just being planted now. The rice fields at present 
 have about three inches of water over them, and the 
 farmers are digging up the mud. getting the ground in 
 readiness to plant. They work all day in the water and 
 
 167
 
 nnid up to their knees, with a long hoe, turning over the 
 soil. One would think this rather unhealthy work, but 
 these people think it is all right. Notwithstanding the 
 large amount of rice grown, the Japanese do not raise 
 enough for their home consumption, and annually import 
 about 17,000,000 yen in value, of rice. The poorer people 
 cannot afford rice as a diet, but use barley, with rice 
 occasionally as a luxury. All this plain is cut up by small 
 canals for irrigation, and sub-divided into small lots of 
 about an acre each, with a little earth bank raised around 
 the plots so that they can be flooded when necessary 
 without interfering with other fields. 
 
 In this vast plain, we saw no horses or oxen; the men, 
 women and children do ALL the labor, planting, weeding 
 and harvesting, without the aid of horsepower, and where 
 the ground is a little too high to flood the field, they raise 
 the water by man-power pumps. They cannot afford to 
 have animals to do such work, as it would cost too much. 
 I have seen women in the mud and water a foot deep, 
 hoeing the ground for rice, with babies strapped on their 
 backs, and children begin work as soon as they are old 
 enough to understand. Wherever there are hills that have 
 soil enough to raise anything, they are cultivated clear to 
 the top, one terrace above the other, and weeds are not 
 permitted to grow at all; they need all the earth will 
 produce for crops. It seems strange that they grow 
 scarcely any fruit in this part of Japan. Small fruits like 
 berries, are plentiful. We had many strawberries, which 
 have the finest flavor, but there are no fruit trees at all in 
 this part of Japan; no apples, pears, peaches or grapes, and 
 while there are thousands of cherry trees, which are noted 
 for their beautiful blossoms, THEY NEVER BEAR CHERRIES. 
 
 169
 
 Why this peculiarity I did not learn, but the climate in the 
 southern part of Japan is fine and many of the hillsides, 
 when the soil is too thin to raise grain, would, no doubt, 
 bear fine apples, pears, peaches and that class of fruits, and 
 as they need all that their land will produce, it seems to me 
 that they should do a great amount of fruit raising. Also, 
 they have no sheep in Japan, while five-sixths of all their 
 country is so mountainous that it cannot be cultivated. 
 
 Tokyo is the most important city; population nearly two 
 millions (about as large as Chicago). In the central part 
 of the city is the palace of the Mikado; the grounds about 
 this palace are .very large I should think one hundred 
 acres. There is a rock wall about thirty feet high 
 surrounding these grounds, and a moat, or canal, outside 
 these walls, about one hundred feet wide, and the water in 
 it is about six feet deep. The palace is reached by bridge; 
 ordinary mortals are not permitted to visit the palace or 
 call on the Mikado without special permit from the proper 
 authorities; hence the Mikado did not have an opportunity 
 to meet us. 
 
 The House of Commons and Senate Chamber are in 
 the central part of the city, and are quite ordinary in 
 outside appearance, and rather old buildings, but the 
 judicial, navy, army and treasury departments are all fine 
 new stone structures, evidently up to date in all respects. 
 All these public buildings are near the palace grounds, and 
 in this part of the city, which has evidently been rebuilt 
 during recent years, the streets are about one hundred feet 
 wide, well paved, and look like a modern city. The 
 Imperial Hotel is located near these public buildings and is 
 the best in Tokyo, although the Metropole Hotel is said to 
 
 I/'
 
 be about as good, and both are managed by the same 
 company. 
 
 There is an electric tramway in Tokyo, and it does a 
 great business; cars crowded like they are in our large 
 cities: fare "four sen," equal to two cents, and is a good 
 paying investment at that. They are now building an 
 elevated tramway through the central part of the city, 
 carried on massive brick arches very expensive to build, 
 but this is such a great city that anything of this kind will 
 pay a profit. The most of the old part of the city is 
 narrow streets twenty to twenty-five feet wide, with one 
 story frame houses and open sewers on each side. While 
 they keep these streets well swept and sprinkled, yet these 
 open sewers have a very bad odor, and I would think 
 would be very unhealthy. They sometimes have fires here, 
 which destroy vast areas of their tinder-box houses, and 
 when this occurs, in rebuilding the streets are laid out 
 regular and wide; much of the city has already been 
 improved in this way, and the remainder will be when they 
 have more fires. 
 
 Tokyo lies on Tokyo Bay and is flat or level; we took a 
 carriage to do the city with our guide; this is an extra- 
 ordinary thing, as there are very few horses in Tokyo; we 
 did not see half a dozen carriages, while in the city. The 
 jinriksha is the popular way of traveling here, and it is a 
 very good way too; however as we wanted to do a large 
 part of the city in a short time, we hired a two-horse 
 carriage with a driver and footman, or out-runner; this 
 footman was for actual service and not for style. Whenever 
 we came to a crowded part of the street, he would run 
 ahead and yell to clear the street, and give us important 
 personages room, and the good natured Japs would take 
 
 173
 
 his word for it, and immediately make room for us, so that 
 our horses usually went a good trot. 
 
 We visited a flower show, which was good, although 
 it was a little late in the season; the Wistaria, however, was 
 at its best and very beautiful. We also visited a SHINTO 
 TEMPLE, a wooden building of not prepossessing appear- 
 ance, but gaudily painted, with a small canal in front and a 
 sacred (?) bridge over the canal; the bridge being too 
 steep for mortals to walk over, we crossed on a small foot 
 bridge. 
 
 There were no idols in sight at this temple, but a few 
 Japs were occasionally calling and would throw a small coin 
 on the matting at the front of the temple. When this was 
 done, a boy who stood by the side of the gateway would 
 strike a gong loudly. 
 
 The Tokyo Exposition is now going on, and it is a 
 very creditable exhibit of the manufactures and artistic 
 work of Japan, and well worth a careful inspection. The 
 general plan of the buildings and the scope of the exhibits 
 is much like the many World's Fairs we have in the United 
 States. We made two visits to this show and would have 
 been glad to view it more thoroughly if we had time. It 
 is a Japanese exhibit and shows only Japanese materials, 
 manufactures and products. We saw many very fine water- 
 color and cut velvet pictures, all done by Japanese artists. 
 They have the usual side show entertainments, including a 
 Ferris Wheel over a hundred feet high, and a large theatre, 
 where we saw the far-famed "Geisha" dance. The Japanese 
 band at this theatre was composed of fifty musicians, and 
 their music was much applauded by the large Japanese 
 audience, but I think these people are fully two thousand 
 years behind the rest of the civilized world in music; at least, 
 
 175
 
 this was the poorest music I have ever heard, and I have 
 heard the Chinese tom-toms and Turkish music. The 
 dancing girls were beautifully dressed in Japanese costumes, 
 and while it was not much of a dance, still that part of the 
 show was good, as their motions were very graceful and 
 pretty. 
 
 The city of Tokyo is a great manufacturing center, and 
 has several large factories which work wood and metals, 
 but the most of the manufacturing in Tokyo is done by the 
 Japanese in their own homes, where the whole family work, 
 in fact, the most of the city is occupied by people who are 
 doing some kind of work on the first floor and live upstairs. 
 Comparatively little machinery is used, everything being 
 made by hand. Although this is one of the greatest cities 
 of the world, it is a silent city no factory whistles, no 
 ringing of bells, no rattle of wheels on the streets. The 
 jinriksha man trots along like a man in his stocking feet, 
 or in hauling a loaded cart, moves noiselessly; on waking 
 at seven in the morning, the only noise to be heard was 
 the cawing of big black crows, or ravens, and there are a 
 great many of them in Tokyo. They seem to be quite at 
 home and are not molested by the people. 
 
 From Tokyo, we went by rail to Nikko, distance 
 eighty-eight miles, time five hours, on express train. The 
 railroads here are four foot gauge, and first-class cars have 
 the seats lengthwise of the car; this is not as comfortable 
 as our plan of seats. The express trains run seventeen 
 miles an hour; don't know when we would "get there" on 
 the ordinary train. The country is not so fertile as we near 
 the mountains, but the hillsides are covered with the most 
 beautiful wild azalias in full bloom. Xikko is small, only 
 has one well paved street, but that is about two miles long 
 
 177
 
 'DIABUTSU," THE GREATEST BUDDHA IDOL. 
 (See Our Party in Lower Part of Photo.)
 
 with a rushing mountain brook running down the gutter on 
 either side. It is situated on a small mountain river, the 
 Daiya-gawa. which has water enough in it to make a 
 continual roar as it leaps over the boulders. There are a 
 great many curio stores along this street, and some 
 factories where they are making more curios, also a cotton 
 mill run by water power, which employs five hundred hands. 
 There are two good European hotels and a number of 
 temples; in fact, the temples are the attraction for the 
 tourist, as well as the Japanese visitor, and they are said to 
 be the finest in Japan. There is an avenue of cedar trees 
 over twenty miles long, leading from the valley up the 
 mountain to these temples; these cedars were planted two 
 hundred years ago and are the finest specimens, of cedar I 
 have ever seen; they average about two feet in diameter, 
 and over one hundred feet high. The trees are planted in 
 two rows and the branches meet over the well gravelled 
 road; they stand quite close together, about six feet apart, 
 and are very uniform in size and shape. It is said they 
 were planted by one of the Shoguns, who was too poor to 
 build a temple; Nature has assisted him, so that his work 
 shows better at this time than the best of the temples. 
 
 After lunch, we climbed the mountain about half a mile 
 to view these temples. The first we visited was a Buddhist 
 temple, called lyayemitich. There are three long flights of 
 stone stairs to climb before we reach the temple, which 
 could not be called a place of worship after our ideas. 
 First, you pass through a gateway, which is guarded by 
 two huge statues about ten feet tall, with ferocious faces 
 and horns, looking much like the images of His Satanic 
 Majesty. These two face us as we approach the gate, and 
 two others of the same kind face us after we pass the gate. 
 
 179
 
 This is the usual style of gateway to all these temples. 
 Both outside and inside of this gateway are a great number 
 of LAMPS, which have been presented to the temple. There 
 are at least three or four hundred of them, about ten feet 
 high, lamp and pedestal of the Japanese pattern, most of 
 them cut out of solid stone. Many however are made of 
 bronze and are artistic. These lamps are placed close 
 together and cover a large part of the court: they have been 
 there so long that many are covered with moss, and, being 
 a rainy country, everything has a damp forest moss if long 
 exposed to the weather. Another long flight of stone steps, 
 and we are at the door of the temple, where we take off 
 our shoes and put on felt slippers and enter. This remov- 
 ing shoes is not, a form of reverence for the place, but to 
 protect the floor and matting from being soiled or damaged. 
 This temple is about sixty feet long and twenty fe,et wide 
 and twenty-five feet high, and empty, except for four 
 cylinder-like metal boxes, which are said to contain the 
 Scriptures. There is a fee of a few cents for admission, and 
 one seedy-looking Jap, called the priest, but I think he was 
 the janitor, sat near the door. Just back of this room, and 
 a part of the same building, is another room which we 
 were not permitted to enter, a kind of Holy of Holies. 
 The Buddhist does not preach sermons, and the people do 
 not gather in numbers at the temple, but a few sometimes 
 kneel before it and ''pay their respects" (they do not offer 
 prayers) and leave a few copper coins of very little value. 
 On leaving the temple, we climbed two very long flights 
 of stone steps to view the tomb of the Shogun, leyasu 
 leyasu. who built this temple three hundred years ago. 
 The monument which marks his resting place is made of 
 bronze, about twenty feet high, of a fanciful pattern, some- 
 
 181
 
 thing like a Japanese lamp. The burial place, about fifty 
 feet square is paved with Mat stones and enclosed with a 
 high stone wall. Just before the gate to this enclosure is a 
 small chapel about forty feet long and twenty feet wide, 
 quite pretty in appearance. This temple and tomb, and. in 
 fact, all the temples at Nikko are situated in a forest of 
 Cedar trees, which are very high and cast a deep shade 
 over the whole place. 
 
 On leaving this we visited a Shinto temple. Here we 
 pass a fine pagoda one hundred and four feet high (six 
 stories), through a Japanese stone gateway, then another 
 gateway, or arch, guarded by devilish looking stone images, 
 both inside and outside the gate, and take off shoes as 
 before. At this temple, there were nearly a dozen Japanese 
 kneeling, "paying their respects," and leaving a few copper 
 coins. This room was about forty feet long and twenty 
 feet wide; the walls were decorated with wood carving, and 
 floor covered with straw matting. At one end- was a small 
 waiting room, where the Mikado rests when he comes to 
 the temple. There was a similar room behind the first 
 where we were not permitted to go. Our guide told us 
 there were three images, or idols in this room; we saw no 
 images or idols in any of the temples. There are two 
 buildings near this temple, same style of architecture and 
 appearance as the temple, which are used by people who 
 care for the grounds and temple, as their living rooms, and 
 another small building, same style, where a Japanese woman 
 dances the "sacred dance" if one gives her a small coin. 
 The dance consisted of a slow and graceful movement 
 of the arms and body, and the tinkling of a small baby 
 rattle with one hand, and waving a fan with the other not 
 
 183
 
 
 TEA HOUSE. TOKYO.
 
 much of a dance and not worth the money. Another 
 temple was visited, but was similar to the Shinto Temple 
 just described. 
 
 All these temples are gaudily painted in red and gold 
 lacquer. This painting stands the weather extraordinarily 
 well; while they are repainted every two years, they look 
 as fresh now as if the paint was applied yesterday. Such 
 bright colors make them a dazzling show when one first 
 beholds them. Also the sacred Red Bridge which spans 
 Diaya-gawa River at Nikko is painted in the same dazzling 
 colors; this sacred bridge is closed to the public except 
 twice a year, when pilgrims to the temples are allowed to 
 cross it. About one hundred feet down stream is the 
 temporary bridge, which common people use every day 
 a very good bridge, too, but does not shine with paint like 
 the red and gold-lacquered sacred bridge. 
 
 The town of Xikko is very prettily situated in the 
 mountains, two thousand feet above sea level. The air is 
 fresh and invigorating; there are many country homes here, 
 and in this vicinity, where the officials and wealthy Japanese 
 of Tokyo come to spend the heated term. A mile up the 
 river, on a stone wall built along the river bank, we. saw 
 three hundred STONE IMAGES, all alike, being the bust or 
 image of Buddha in a sitting posture; they are five feet 
 high and placed ten feet apart, made and placed there by 
 one of the Shoguns about three hundred years ago. "in 
 honor of the temples" a rather queer way to honor the 
 temples. Some of them have had their heads broken off, 
 and a few have tumbled over into the river. I asked the 
 guide who kept these temples so well painted, and who paid 
 the priests who attended them. He replied that it was 
 
 185
 
 done by the town. This is done to keep the tourist and 
 Japanese pilgrims coming to Xikko. It is one of the show 
 places of Japan, and they have to keep things bright and 
 in repair to draw the crowd. 
 
 After a good night's rest and a hearty breakfast, we 
 set off for a trip up the Valley of Daiya-gawa to Lake 
 Chuzenji. Each member of our party took a sedan chair, 
 which was carried on bamboo poles on the shoulders of 
 four stalwart Japanese coolies, our guide taking a jinriksha 
 with one man to pull and two to push, our party requiring 
 fifteen men to take us up. They wear very little 
 clothing, these Japanese coolies a cotton shirt and cotton 
 pants, so short that their legs and feet are bare. These 
 sturdy fellows worked all day, and hard work, too, carrying 
 us up to the lake ten miles and back for thirty-seven and a 
 half cents each. I mention this to show the very small 
 wages paid in Japan; we gave them each a tip in addition. 
 The road is very rough and steep, and rises twenty-five 
 hundred feet in going the ten miles. These fellows, who 
 subsist on barley, with a little rice as a luxury, sometimes a 
 little fish (as they are one hundred miles from the sea), 
 very seldom any meat, have good strong muscle and did 
 their work cheerfully, laughing and chatting between 
 themselves most of the time. They were delighted to have 
 such a good job. 
 
 This Daiya-gawa valley above Nikko is impassible in 
 winter, on account of the heavy snows, which blockade the 
 narrow roadway. When winter comes, everybody deserts 
 these mountains and goes down the valley where it is 
 warmer. The coming of Spring and the tourist brings the 
 natives back to open up their tea-houses, carry sedan 
 chairs and pull jinrikshas. The Aisho copper mines in 
 
 187
 
 these mountains are the most productive in Japan; their 
 output is 7000 tons smelted copper per year; they have 
 built a small tramway two feet wide down the valley, and 
 use oxen to haul the small cars on this track, bringing the 
 copper ingots, each weighing sixty-eight pounds, down to 
 Xikko for shipment, and hauling supplies back. 
 
 The trip up this valley is one of the finest for beautiful 
 scenery it has been my pleasure to see; it reminds me very 
 much of the valleys between the Alps in Switzerland. 
 While not so wide and covered with rough rock, yet the 
 continuous mountais peaks on either side, and the ever- 
 present rushing, roaring stream of water, is much like the 
 Swiss beautiful. Most of the distance, we wound along a 
 road near the stream, crossing it several times, passing 
 many pretty tea-houses on the way, where refreshment is 
 waiting for the traveler. When half way up, we stopped and 
 took tea and gave our hard-working chair carriers a short 
 rest, in fact, we were many times compelled to walk awhile 
 to get rested, as the sedan chair is not easy riding; it is 
 very much like riding a hard trotting horse. After a good 
 hard pull of three and a half hours, we reached the beautiful 
 Chuzenji Lake, size, three miles by eight miles, and it is 
 beautiful, very much like the Italian lakes, nestled between 
 the tops of mountains at an elevation of four thousand five 
 hundred feet above sea level. Although quite warm 
 weather in the valleys, an overcoat was very comfortable 
 here; we were close to the snow capped mountain Nantaipen. 
 nine thousand feet, which made the air exhilarating. We 
 were hungry enough to enjoy the good lunch which was 
 ready for us at the Lake hotel. Some tourists stop here a 
 week, as the air is fine at this season, and the scenery 
 grand. We had no time for a long stay and were off again 
 
 189
 
 WISTARIA GARDEN, TOKYO.
 
 soon after lunch, for our return, going by way of the falls, 
 where the lake waters start on their tumultuous and noisy 
 way over the rocks, down to the sea. We made the return 
 trip in three hours and felt that we had done a big day's 
 work, seeing the most beautiful scenery in this beautiful 
 scenic land. 
 
 Our next visit was to the town of Miyanoshita, said to 
 be the most popular summer resort in Japan. We took the 
 URGENT EXPRESS TRAIN for Kodzu; this is the best railway 
 train in Japan, the track is good and but few stops are made. 
 It is the through train from Tokyo to Kobe, and makes the 
 unprecedented time of twenty miles an hour; an extra fare 
 of one yen is charged to ride first class on this train. 
 There were several "high up" Japanese on the car with us; 
 I noticed that the one sitting next to me was riding on a 
 pass, while a plebeian like myself paid full fare and one yen 
 extra. This pass has, no doubt, been issued to influence 
 trade. Where is the Japanese Interstate Commerce 
 Commission? The seats in this car run lengthwise, and it 
 is used as a sleeping car on night trains, having a drawing 
 room compartment in the middle, which was occupied by 
 Chinese Mandarins; very good looking fellows they were, too. 
 
 From Kodzu, we took an electric tram car about ten 
 miles up the mountain to Yumoto. On the way we had a 
 very good view of the great snow capped mountain, 
 Fujiyama, fifty miles distant. From Yumoto, we climbed 
 the mountain in rikshas, four and a half miles; this part of 
 the trip is very scenic and grand; the road for the most 
 part was up a small valley, beside a rushing river, which we 
 crossed several times, all the time climbing. In many 
 places the road is cut into the rocky side of the mountain 
 and overhangs the valley, several hundred feet below. We 
 
 193
 
 had one man to pull and one to push; they carried us up to 
 Hotel Fujiya in two hours. It was good hard climbing all 
 the way, and most of the road rocky and rough. We 
 arrived in time for lunch and were greatly pleased with the 
 place: the hotel is, no doubt, the best mountain hotel in 
 Japan and would be considered first-class in the United 
 States. It is kept by a Japanese lady who knows how to 
 keep a hotel, and the location is a delight to the eye. The 
 air is a tonic to the system, the rooms are the most 
 pleasant we have had since leaving home, and the meals are 
 good. The elevation is fourteen hundred feet, with 
 mountains in all directions a thousand feet higher. There 
 are many hot springs in this vicinity; the hot \vater for the 
 baths here is brought from these springs in pipes made of 
 bamboo poles. Punch the pith out, and these poles make 
 a good strong water pipe. As our time in Japan was 
 limited, we were compelled to leave for Yokohama after 
 one day at this delightful place: we would have been glad 
 to spend a week here. 
 
 One day, we made a trip from Yokohama to KAMAKURA, 
 a few miles by rail. The first thing we saw there was the 
 temple of war. "Hachiman;" this is reached by jinriksha in 
 a few minutes from the station, passing through the main 
 street of the city. The approach of this temple is up three 
 broad Mights of steps, very high. In going up, we saw the 
 "Icho" tree, very large, about seven feet in diameter, and a 
 hundred feet high, said to be a thousand years old: it is 
 still vigorous and seems to be good for another thousand 
 years. The temple is seven hundred years old and has a 
 corridor running all the way around it. in which are placed 
 many of the war curios, such as coats of armor, spears, 
 shields, guns, several miniature temples, which look much 
 
 195
 
 like the Ark of the Covenant which the Israelites had in 
 ancient times; they may have been patterned after it. 
 These are carried on bamboo poles by four men during pro- 
 cessions, and are popularly supposed to contain a god. 
 We did not enter this temple, as it was closed on account 
 of a holiday (we simply walked through the corridor), but 
 it seemes to be much in need of repairs and paint. Then 
 we went about a mile through the city to see the well 
 known image of DAIBUTSU; this colossal bronze statue, or 
 Buddha idol, is situated in an open garden; originally 
 there was a temple built over it, and the stone foundations 
 are in view now, but the temple was swept away by a tidal 
 wave, and rebuilt, to be again swept away, and has since 
 been exposed to the sun and storms for centuries. The 
 statue is located only a little above sea level and about a 
 mile from the sea: it is the greatest of the idols in Japan, 
 and the photograph of it is well known to all readers of 
 Japanese history "A statue solid set and moulded in 
 colossal calm, no other gives such an impression of 
 majesty, or so truly symbolizes the central idea of 
 Buddhism." It is, indeed, a remarkable statue, being forty- 
 nine feet seven inches high; made of bronze plates two 
 inches thick and solidly welded together, it has withstood 
 the waves, wind, and weather for six hundred and fifty-five 
 years, and looks like it would stand the wear of a thousand 
 years to come. The exclusive privilege to take photographs 
 of these statues and temples has been sold to the Japanese 
 attendants: therefore, we could not use our kodak here, but 
 got the attendant, or priest, to take a photograph for us; 
 he is prepared with a good camera for that purpose. \\ e 
 went inside the statue and climbed a small stairway to the 
 top, where they keep candles burning, at least during the 
 
 197

 
 hours when visitors are expected. These attendants have 
 no more respect for this god than we have, and that is none 
 at all, and really, from my short observations, I do not 
 think the Japanese people have much, if any, respect for any 
 of these so-called gods, or idols. They keep an attendant, 
 called a priest (I call him a "care-taker") at the temples, 
 but they are more to protect the temples and idols from 
 being marred or damaged by visitors than for any purpose 
 of worship, and at the same time collect a small fee from 
 sight-seers. Many names are written on the inside of 
 Daibutsu by enterprising tourists who like to see their 
 names written in high places. 
 
 The Temple of Ewanon is located on a small hill a 
 short distance from Daibutsu. It contains the great image 
 of the "Goddess of Mercy," which is kept behind folding 
 doors. By paying the attendant a small fee, he opened the 
 doors and lit up tallow candles for us to see the Goddess. 
 She is thirty feet, five and one-half inches tall, is made of 
 camphor wood covered with brown lacquer, and gilded 
 over looks like bronze. Although 1178 years of age, 
 time has dealt gently with her, and she still has a placid, 
 pleasant look for all who will pay for the candle to see her 
 face. 
 
 After a good lunch and rest for an hour at the hotel, 
 we again took our rikshas for a pleasant ride of half an 
 hour through the hills to the sea-shore electric tram, which 
 runs around by the beautiful summer resort, Enoshima 
 Island, which is connected to the mainland by trestle 
 bridge. It is one hundred feet above the sea, with rocky 
 bluffs on all sides, except towards the mainland and is 
 covered with summer homes of Japanese, also a good hotel 
 for tourists. 
 
 199
 
 One night, while in Yokohama, we went out to view 
 the Japanese Holiday Festival. These festivals occur on 
 the first, fifteenth, eighth and twelfth of each month, and 
 are observed by decorating their homes and store-fronts 
 with Japanese lanterns, by social visiting, and by the shops 
 in greater display of goods inside, and on streets, for there 
 are no sidewalks in Japan, We walked at least a mile 
 through the street, densely packed with a moving mass of 
 laughing, chatting, good-natured Japs men, women and 
 children some pegging along with wooden sandals raised 
 on strips of wood about three inches high, making a 
 rattling noise against the pebbles as they shuffled their 
 sandals, many others walking silently with straw sandals, 
 their costumes varying greatly, some wearing the full 
 Oriental Japanese dress, arid others wearing American style 
 clothing. Many divide it and wear an American hat and 
 coat, with bare legs, and feet with Japanese sandals. Others 
 wear American shoes and hat, with Japanese kimono. Any 
 mixture, or lack of mixture, in dress is-in order. I think 
 this manner of dress illustrates the transition now going on 
 from old to new customs as well as costumes. Their small 
 shops have the fronts entirely open; the floors are raised 
 about two feet above the street and covered with soft straw 
 matting. The shop-keepers who handle cloth and clothing 
 usually have no goods in sight, but bring them to you by 
 the basketful if you express a wish as to what kind of 
 goods you desire to see. Others have many goods piled 
 on the floors: you may sit on the floor, and they will spread 
 their goods before you, but most of their wares are the 
 little things, such' as toys, small Japanese fiddles, with one 
 or two strings, a large variety of knives, fancy shells, men's 
 hats, hemp cordage, lamps, canes, rice, beans, cigars, 
 
 20 1
 
 cigarettes, and a great variety of china and crockery ware. 
 Japanese cooking utensils, such as copper pans, charcoal 
 brasiers, in fact, almost no end of variety in small wares. 
 Many articles are laid on the street for inspection. So 
 many Japanese lamps make everything as light as day: the 
 festival seems to be the great opportunity to display and 
 sell goods. No one will ask you to buy unless you stop 
 and ask the price. These small shops are often attended by 
 an old woman, young girl or boy, very few of whom can 
 speak English, but all are anxious to learn it. It was cer- 
 tainly an interesting sight to walk up and down this crowded 
 street. Near the end of the street was a Shinto temple, 
 lit up with candles and paper lanterns; we climbed a flight of 
 steps to the second story, which was the main part of the 
 temple. There was no idol in sight, but there was a Jap 
 boy with a gong and drum-stick. Whenever anyone tossed 
 a coin on the straw- matting before the temple, the boy 
 would strike the gong a heavy whack with the drum-stick. 
 This is said to call the notice of the Shinto god to the 
 donation; otherwise he might not know who deposited the 
 coin; it also serves notice to the people on the crowded 
 street that it is time for them to make similar donations. 
 The temple service did not seem to be popular that night, 
 as there were not more than half a dozen persons present. 
 We took a carriage ride out to Mississippi Bay one 
 afternoon. This is a southern suburb of Yokohama, and 
 about three miles distant from the central part of the city. 
 The road most of the way lies along the big canal, with 
 stores, workshops and residences on one side. The Bay 
 was named by our Commodore Perry when he visited here 
 and opened the port. On the way, there were a great 
 number of canal boats, or large sampans, loaded with 
 
 203
 
 merchandise and building material, or empty. These boats 
 are pushed along with poles and are very convenient for 
 distributing materials along the canal, which is too shallow 
 for steamers or sailing boats. At the bay, we had tea, cakes 
 and candy in a Japanese tea house, quite refreshing, after a 
 ride that was so long we thought we were lost before 
 reaching destination. Coming back, we took a round-about 
 road alongside the Bay and up a valley, which is in the 
 highest state of cultivation in wheat and barley, nearly ready 
 for harvest, and a very large crop will be gathered. Much 
 of the ground is being dug up, preparing it for rice 
 planting. Part of our return trip was over the bluff, and 
 here are most of the beautiful homes of the foreign residents 
 of the city, built in European style, with fine landscape 
 gardens. 
 
 At Tokyo, the temperature ranges from 22 to 95 
 degrees, and the annual rainfall from 50 to 70 inches: as 
 five-sixths of the land over the whole empire is moun- 
 tainous, the rainfall is over-abundant nearly everywhere. 
 In the northern portions, the snow is heavy in winter, and 
 weather very cold, while the southern portion has a mild 
 climate, yet it is hardly warm enough to be called semi- 
 tropical, although they raise some oranges. The Japanese 
 houses are very tiny and flimsy; usually bamboo poles are 
 set on stone foundations and tied with bamboo poles 
 crosswise, making a frame; the walls are thin weatherboards, 
 except the front and doors; these are bamboo frames 
 covered with tough white rice paper, set in grooves, so that 
 they slide sideways very readily. The ^roof of their BEST 
 houses is TILE, and it is very heavy for so slight framework. 
 The poorest houses in the cities, and nearly all in the 
 country, are roofed with thatched straw, very heavily and 
 
 205
 
 thickly thatched, so that it turns the water very well. No 
 paint is used on these houses, either outside or inside, and, 
 in consequence, they present a worn-out and dilapidated 
 appearance, but their lumber seems to stand the weather 
 fairly well without paint. They use almost no furniture at 
 all; their floors are covered with straw matting, made in 
 sections, six feet long, three feet wide, and two inches 
 thick, and bound with cloth around the edges. Their beds 
 are simply a heavy cotton-wadded comfort laid on the 
 matting floor, with another cotton-wadded comfort for a 
 cover. With such slight houses and such poor bedding, 
 they must become inured to the cold weather in winter, as 
 the only fire they have is a little charcoal in an open brasier, 
 and over it they do their cooking. They have no chairs or 
 tables, but sit on their legs. Their houses catch fire and 
 burn very quickly, and, when built closely in cities, 
 conflagrations are frequent; however, if they have a little 
 notice, they can load all their clothing and furniture on one 
 two-wheeled cart, which they usually keep for moving heavy 
 articles, and get away before the fire reaches them, so that 
 a fire may, and often does, sweep over large portions of 
 their cities without causing great loss, and is rebuilt in a 
 very short time. 
 
 Their religion is Buddhist and Shinto. There are many 
 temples of both kinds. The Shinto is the Mikado's faith 
 and may be called the state religion. They do not seem 
 to be a religious people, and care very little for their 
 temples or gods, and seem to have but little regard for 
 anything religious. Missionaries from all parts of the 
 world are represented here, and from their reports are 
 making many converts. These people are very anxious to 
 learn the English language, and Mission schools, taught in 
 
 206
 
 English, should result in great good and eventually 
 Christianize the nation. While the number already 
 converted to Christianity may be considered large, yet, 
 compared with the total number of the people, the 
 percentage of the converted is small, and the missionary 
 work here has really only just begun. We should not 
 delay, but put as many Christian teachers as possible in 
 this field, while the .opportunity offers for results. 
 
 There are forty-eight letters in the Japanese alphabet, 
 and, in addition, they use over two thousand Chinese 
 characters, which stand for words. They use the "soroban" 
 for all mathematical calculations; it is simply a frame with 
 wires running across it, and buttons sliding on the wires 
 really a Chinese commutator, adopted by the Japanese; it is 
 much more simple than our high-priced patented com- 
 putating machines, and for many commercial calculations 
 is operated quite as rapidly. 
 
 The Government has no FREE public schools; pupils are 
 required to pay tuition; children are put to work very 
 young, and education is not as general as it should be for 
 above reasons. The English language is taught in all 
 their schools, but being mostly taught by Japanese teachers, 
 the pupils do not learn the accent and cannot speak 
 English, except quite indifferently. It is like our children 
 learning French or German from American teachers; they 
 do not learn to pronounce foreign languages correctly. 
 
 Bamboo is the most useful wood in Japan; it is useful 
 from the size of a cane to the size of a large flag pole fifty 
 feet long; they make toothpicks, canes, waterpipes, sun- 
 shades, umbrellas, house frames, baskets, chairs, poles for 
 pushing boats and carrying chairs, fences and many other 
 things. Rice, tea. barley and wheat are largely cultivated; 
 
 207
 
 silk culture is an important industry; fishing is carried on 
 largely on all coasts, and the natives eat scarcely any meat, 
 except fish. 
 
 The people are small, all their houses are small, many 
 of their manufactured goods are small wares; we get the 
 impression that they are a toy nation. Their railroads are 
 narrow gauge, only four feet, engines and cars built narrow 
 in proportion. Yet, if we think they are small in their 
 ideas, we are mistaken, as they have demonstrated that they 
 are among the great fighting nations of the earth, and 
 certainly there are no more brave men in battle, either on 
 land or sea. Their recent success in the Chinese war, and 
 the Russian war, has made them of much more importance 
 in their own estimation, as well as in the estimation of all 
 the great world powers, and when fighting is to be done 
 on the Pacific, they must be considered. They are 
 increasing their navy and their army, also greatly increasing 
 their merchant marine, paying large subsidies to mail 
 steamship lines in all parts of the Pacific. All these 
 things have a tendency to increase their national debt, 
 which is already very large, and their income from customs 
 duties, and internal revenue, must of necessity be moderate, 
 so that I do not think there is much danger of the Japanese 
 indulging in war for many years to come. There are forty- 
 eight millions of them now, and as the marriageable age of 
 their daughters is fifteen years, they are increasing at a 
 rate never dreamed of by our "race suicide" people. They 
 are destined to become THE great manufacturing nation of 
 the Orient, being ingenious imitators of other nations, very 
 artistic in their workmanship in copper, bronze, silver, gold, 
 wood and ivory carving, also in silk goods and embroidery. 
 The cost of labor is about one-fourth what it is in our 
 
 208
 
 country; they are rapidly increasing their factories for the 
 manufacture of cotton goods, and now import many 
 million dollars worth of raw cotton annually from the 
 United States. 
 
 We saw only two oxen and about a dozen horses in 
 Japan. The common people have no domestic animals at 
 all no horses, cattle, sheep, pigs, goats or geese, and very 
 few chickens. They are too poor to eat meat, and they do 
 all their labor without the aid of animals; there are no 
 Sundays for these people; the usual work goes on just the 
 same Sunday as any other day of the week. There are, 
 however, many festival days, or holidays, on which they do 
 not work; as banks and foreign offices are closed on Sunday, 
 the Japanese government also close their offices on Sunday. 
 While this is not done because of any respect for the day, 
 it will, no doubt, in time, have effect for good. 
 
 Let the Christian world make haste to convert this 
 nation. Under Divine guidance, with their aggressive spirit, 
 they would be the greatest missionary force the earth has 
 yet produced for Christianizing the untold millions of the 
 far East. 
 
 As we sailed out of Yokohama, May 24th, for home, on 
 the good ship, Minnesota, the masts of her sister ship, the 
 Dakota, could be seen at the entrance of Tokyo Bay, where 
 she was wrecked on March 3rd, 1907. We have some of 
 her passengers on board with us now; they tell a sad story 
 of how this palatial steamer, one of the finest and best ever 
 built, valued at three million dollars, carrying a valuable 
 cargo of over 20,000 tons, was run upon the rocks in broad 
 daylight, in a calm sea. Passengers and crew were all 
 saved, but ship and cargo, a total loss. Such inexcusable 
 
 209
 
 carelessness, neglect or incompetence on the part of the 
 commander of this ship has not before been known on 
 the sea. 
 
 After a short voyage of fifteen days on the Minnesota, 
 we landed at Seattle, Washington, and I must say for the 
 Minnesota that she is the steadiest steamer we have ever 
 had the pleasure to sail on six hundred and thirty feet 
 long, and seventy-eight feet beam, with all three first-class 
 passenger decks built above the main deck, good large 
 state rooms, with three promenade decks, the top prome- 
 nade deck very wide. It is a delight to sail on this palatial 
 steamer. 
 
 HOME, SWEET HOME. 
 
 We have now completed a most pleasant voyage of 
 four months since we sailed from Frisco on February /th 
 and landed at Seattle on June 7th. In going out, we 
 dropped one day in February, so that we had a month of 
 only twenty-seven days, and, on our return we added one 
 day in May, making it a month of thirty-two days the 
 longest and shortest months that anyone ever saw. We 
 have, during these four months, sailed about twenty 
 thousand miles, practically all around the Pacific, and it has 
 been a voyage of great benefit to us all. We have learned 
 much about the earth and its inhabitants the most 
 interesting and educational trip that anyone could have in 
 four months' time, and now we are home with renewed 
 health and strength to again take up the battle in the 
 commercial world. While we have visited countries where 
 the climate is better than ours, and other countries where 
 one can live, or rather exist, with less exertion than here, 
 
 210
 
 other countries where the scenery was a delight to the eye, 
 and the air a tonic to the lungs still, in all these foreign 
 countries, there are many things that are not nearly as good 
 as in our own United States, and while many times we do 
 much complaining that our own country is not as it should 
 be in every respect, still I am sure that any fair-minded 
 American who travels the world over, will come back to his 
 own country satisfied that it is, beyond all doubt, the best 
 country that the sun shines upon. 
 
 "My Country, 'tis of thee, 
 
 Sweet land of liberty, 
 Of thee I sing. 
 
 Long may our land be bright 
 With Freedom's holy light, 
 
 Protect us by Thy might, 
 Great God, our King." 
 
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