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 WITH SAMUEL JOHNSON, LLD. 
 
 BY JAMES BOSWELL, ESQ. 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
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 " HE WAS OF AN ADMIRABLE PREGNANCY OP WIT, AND THAT PREGNANCY 
 MVCH IMPEOVED BY CONTINUAL STCDY PROM HIS CHIIJJHOOD J BY WHICH HE 
 HAD GOTTEN SUCH A PROMPTNESS IN EXPRESSING HIS MIND, THAT HIS EXTKM- 
 PORAL SPEECHES WERE IITTLE INFERIOR TO BIS PREMEDITATED WHITINGS. 
 MANY, NO DOUBT, HAD HEAD AS MUCH, AND PERHAPS MORE THAN HE ; BUT 
 SCARCE EVER ANY COXCOCTKD HIS READING INTO JUDGMENT AS HE DID." 
 
 Baker's Chronicle.
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 THE " JOURNAL OF A TOUR TO THE HEBRIDES" was the 
 first portion of his " Life of Dr. Johnson" that Mr. Boswell 
 gave to the public. It appeared in the autumn of 1785, about 
 nine months after the death of Johnson, and two editions were 
 exhausted within a twelvemonth. A third was issued in Au- 
 gust, 1786, and this was the last which the author lived to 
 revise. His death, " unexpected by his friends, and the subject 
 of universal regret," says his affectionate literary associate, 
 Malone, took place on the 19th of May, 1795. 
 
 The Journal could hardly fail to gain immediate popularity. 
 Both the subject and the plan of the Work were attractive. 
 No author, perhaps, ever stood higher with his contemporaries, 
 or was regarded with greater interest as a man, than Johnson. 
 His writings were in all hands, and his Dictionary was looked 
 upon as a national triumph. Garrick's epigram, that one 
 Englishman had, in the contest for philological honours, beat 
 forty Frenchmen, was the key-note to a whole chorus of acclam- 
 ations. Then, the personal character and peculiarities of 
 Johnson his sturdy independence, his strong prejudices, his 
 dogmatism, his unrivalled dexterity and power in argument, 
 his \eryjigure, as Boswell has observed, were all, more or less, 
 known to the great mass of readers, from the Land's-End to the 
 Hebrides. Fragments of his conversation, including some of 
 his weighty and pungent remarks, his witty sarcasms and lively 
 personal sallies, had got abroad, and public curiosity was strongly 
 excited regarding the daily life, habits, and opinions of the 
 great literary dictator. Immediately on his death every peri-
 
 vi INTRODUCTION. 
 
 odical was ready with its quota of biography or criticism. Mrs. 
 Piozzi lost no time in announcing her " Anecdotes ;" Sir John 
 Hawkins was known to be busy with his " Life," and Dr. 
 Strahan sent to the press those private " Prayers and Medita- 
 tions," which afford so strange, so solemn, and so humbling a 
 memorial of Johnson's piety and weakness. 
 
 Thus heralded, the copious, varied, and authentic Journal 
 of Boswell made its appearance, constituting a new era in our 
 biographical literature. Middleton, in his "Life of Cicero," 
 and Mason, in his "Life of Gray," had given specimens of 
 detailed biography, interweaving letters and journals with the 
 narrative. The French " Ana" had shown the value of anec- 
 dote in illustrating character. Boswell acknowledged that he 
 had taken the outline of his plan from Mason, but in reality, 
 he worked after no model. He could have written his memoirs 
 in no other way. He unconsciously painted Johnson as Crom- 
 well wished to be painted by Lely : every wart and blemish 
 was delineated. His undistinguishing veneration made little 
 distinction between virtues and defects between what was per- 
 manent and what was merely accidental. All was set down. 
 The world had at last got assurance of a faithful full-length pic- 
 ture of a genuine man. To write the " Life of Johnson" was 
 Boswell's special mission upon earth. For any other worldly 
 purpose or employment he was inferior to most men, but in 
 this he was great and inimitable. His peculiar talents, his 
 social and inquisitive nature, his position in society, even his 
 glaring foibles and weaknesses, fitted him for the task. We 
 cannot appreciate his excellence unless we estimate what our 
 lighter literature would be deprived of if his genial labours 
 were withdrawn. How much valuable contemporary history 
 and fine criticism would be lost ! What lessons of practical 
 wisdom, free from the formality of didactic teaching what 
 sportive wit, keen satire, and pregnant observation! How 
 little should we know of that brilliant intellectual circle in
 
 INTRODUCTION. Vii 
 
 which Johnson moved of Burke, Goldsmith, Reynolds, Beau- 
 clerk, the Burneys, the Langtons, and the Thrales, all placed 
 before us by the recording pen of Bos well, as by the wand of 
 an enchanter ? Deeper truths, too, are there, the fruits of sad 
 and bitter experience, " when days were dark and friends were 
 few ;" and the struggling adventurer toiled on obscure in the 
 recesses of that mighty Babel which ultimately was filled with 
 his fame. 
 
 It is seldom that the true inner life of a man will bear to be 
 laid open to the world, nor would the world be benefitted by 
 the spectacle. Johnson had his secrets unknown to Boswell, 
 but he was subjected to such a scrutiny as is without parallel 
 in literary history, and that he came out of it with so little 
 damage is the best testimony that could be borne to his moral 
 worth. His intellectual character was elevated by the ordeal. 
 Burke said truly that Boswell's work was a greater monument 
 to Johnson's fame than all his writings put together. In fact, 
 it contained the essence or best materials of his writings stript 
 of their cumbrous covering of words. We had the fruit without 
 the rind, the sap without the bark of the tree. No other emi- 
 nent person of his day could have exhibited such an amount of 
 ready colloquial talent, embracing such a variety of knowledge, 
 and joined to original and salient points of character. Burke 
 himself, we suspect, though sometimes magnificent, would have 
 appeared very unequal, very diffuse, and even tedious ; and 
 among authors there are absolutely no materials for comparison. 
 Dryden confessed that he " knew not what to say." Addison'e 
 taciturnity in general society is well known. Swift loved, and 
 his readers love, his " little language" to Stella, but his morbid 
 eccentricities and trifling would have appeared contemptible 
 in a journal of his daily life. Pope was sententious and fond 
 of anecdote, but he was too intent on versifying to spend much 
 of his time in talk, while his physical weakness often disposed 
 him to fall asleep at table. We need not run further over the
 
 Vlll INTBODUCTION. 
 
 list of our immortals, the result would be tlie same. A biogra- 
 pher like Boswell would have ruined any other great man but 
 Johnson. 
 
 The chief interest of Boswell' s Journal lies in the central 
 figure so fully developed in the sage of Bolt Court exploring 
 the wilds of the Hebrides. The journey was a memorable one 
 for Johnson at the age of sixty-four. His love of London 
 amounted to a passion, yet what greater contrast to Fleet Street 
 and the Strand than the bleak shores of Sky and Mull ? He 
 was fond of his ease, and travelling over mountains and bogs, 
 with scarce a bridle-track, or crossing stormy friths and arms 
 of the sea in open boats, was attended with danger as well as 
 inconvenience. The season, too, was far advanced ; but the 
 drenching rains and cloudy skies he set at defiance, and as for 
 the shelter of woods, he was probably better pleased to be with- 
 out it, that he might have license to rail at the want of trees. 
 His stout heart (that never grew old) and his strong desire to 
 see new modes of life, with a malicious hope that he might 
 detect and demolish the whole fabric of Ossian and Macpherson* 
 irresistably impelled him to the north. Perhaps a lingering 
 touch of Jacobitism (" scotched but not killed " by his pension), 
 and a dim veneration for the mysterious second sight, mingled 
 with the other motives. In his youth he had indulged visions 
 of the " showery west," and of sainted lona, where 
 
 " The mighty kings of three fair realms are laid." 
 
 And in his age he was to realize those boyish dreams. His 
 reception did not belie the ancient hospitality of the country. 
 His fame had preceded him wherever he went; and lairds, 
 tenants, and clergy, with ladies, the flower of Hebridean society, 
 vied with each other in paying him attention. The clergy, in- 
 deed, he would not hear preach. Indolence and High Churchism 
 veiled to himself under the guise of religious principle, kept 
 him away from the precincts of a Presbyterian church ; but he
 
 INTRODUCTION. IX 
 
 delighted to find the laborious ministers of the west learned, 
 pious, and estimable men, who, like the Scotch professors, 
 listened meekly to the roll of his sonorous sentences, and bore 
 his reproofs and contradictions in silence. 
 
 The grand external features of the country made little im- 
 pression on the travellers. Coleridge said the five finest things 
 in Scotland were Edinburgh, the ante-chamber of the Fall of 
 Foyers, Loch Lomond, the Trosachs, and the view of the Hebrides 
 from some point he had forgotten, but which was doubtless the 
 first view, approaching either from east or west, of that far- 
 stretching archipelago of dark, variously-shaped islands, rising 
 out of the sea, and striking the traveller with a sensation of 
 delighted surprise, and of wild and lonely beauty. Johnson saw 
 four of these five wonders, but he was vastly indifferent and 
 incurious about such things. His imperfect eyesight interfered 
 with his appreciation of scenery, and it required some direct 
 human interest or powerful associations to rouse him to intel- 
 lectual activity. Great, however, was the anxiety evinced as to 
 what impressions had been made upon him by his Highland 
 tour. How was he to treat Scotland ? What was he to say of 
 Ossian ? His " Journey," a brief, unpretending narrative, was 
 read with extraordinary avidity, particularly in Scotland. It 
 set innumerable tongues and pens to work, abusing the writer 
 for illiberality, but it also set many of the lairds to work, plant- 
 ing and improving their domains. The work was deficient in 
 information, and in information of a kind that could easily have 
 been obtained, but this Johnson was too indolent to seek ; and 
 apart from him, Boswell could do little or nothing the mistletoe 
 could not spread without the support of the oak. Nothing can 
 be more meagre than those parts of his Journal, as the purely 
 descriptive passages, the account of Charles Edward's escape 
 from Sky, &c., in which Boswell had not Johnson to lean upon. 
 His whole faculties apparently were engrossed by this one 
 theme. Johnson's volume, however, gave an excellent sketch
 
 X INTRODUCTION. 
 
 of the old feudal, or rather, patriarchal system of the Highlands, 
 and it completed the topography of Pennant, by adding views of 
 society and manners to the details of the antiquarian and natu- 
 ralist. His brief notices of some of the solitary scenes through 
 which they journeyed the mountains and green pastoral val- 
 leys on the main-land or the sounds and bays, and boating 
 excursions along the rocky coasts or the princely reception that 
 awaited the travellers at the island courts of Rasay and Dunve- 
 gan possess all the interest and novelty of romantic narrative. 
 These short picturesque passages, with the reflections suggested 
 at Inchkenneth and lona, are stamped with true poetic feeling, 
 and show how clearly and vividly the light of imagination burned 
 in Johnson to the last. The petty cavils and uncouth prejudices 
 which mar the early part of his " Journey," melt and disappear 
 in these Highland solitudes, which he regarded as the chosen 
 retreats of ancient piety, loyalty, and hospitality. Nor was the 
 company he met unworthy of the scene. Johnson's genius was 
 not dramatic ; but his description of Flora Macdonald, of young 
 Coll, of the veteran Sir John Maclean and his daughters, of 
 Macleod, and of the joyous, overflowing household of Rasay, 
 forms a small gallery of distinct and happy portraits. Such 
 views of insular life, so near home, were new to the English 
 people ; and so much were they interested in the history and 
 character of Coll, that the death of the young islander was felt 
 as a personal and private grief throughout the kingdom. 
 
 Boswell's Journal is, of course, pitched in a lower key. How 
 far he was justified in relating all he saw and heard in the course 
 of the Tour, is a question not likely to be very nicely weighed 
 by those who have derived so much genuine pleasure from his 
 revelations. We judge the case differently from the parties he 
 visited, many of whom were dragged into unwelcome and un- 
 enviable notoriety. Johnson perused most of the Journal in 
 manuscript ; his vanity was flattered, but there is no reason to 
 believe that he ever suspected the work would be published in
 
 INTRODUCTION. XI 
 
 its original shape. Bos well was afterwards sensible that he had 
 told too much ; and he endeavoured, though with very indif- 
 ferent success, to be more guarded as he advanced with his 
 " Magnum Opus." He certainly improved in style and general 
 correctness as a writer ; but it is marvellous that he should have 
 escaped the usually potent effects of Highland wrath, in conse- 
 quence of some of his disclosures. If the rough and haughty 
 laird of Lochbuy could have foreseen how he was to be repre- 
 resented by his visitor, he would assuredly have thrust him into 
 the dungeon of his old castle, though it should have cost him a 
 second trial and fine ; and the chief of the Macdonalds might 
 have been tempted to "sequestrate" him, like another Lady 
 Grange, to Heskir or St. Kilda. The veriest domestic spy could 
 not have acted worse than he did on some occasions ; but for all 
 such offences, one excuse may be made it was Boswell's way ; 
 he was unconscious of the wrong he inflicted ; he was every day 
 exhibiting his own sores and buffets ; and though a wiser man 
 would have left unsaid much that he has written, a wiser man 
 would not have made so entertaining a book. 
 
 Notwithstanding the novelties of their journey, Johnson said 
 they had gone too late to the Hebrides to see a people of peculiar 
 appearance and a system of antiquated life : " The Highlanders 
 were fast losing their distinction, and hastening to mingle with 
 the general community." The country was in a state of transi- 
 tion, confusion, and discontent. The old military system was 
 broken up, chief and clan were disunited, and emigration was in 
 full progress. Every where there seemed to be, as in the poet's 
 dream, 
 
 " A lurid light, a trampling throng 
 
 Sense of intolerable wrong." 
 
 The last gleams of romance in Highland life had been extin- 
 guished at Culloden. The chief no longer boasted his coshir or 
 retinue, or gave great banquets in his strong tower while the 
 senachie recited his ancestral glories and exploits, or sallied forth
 
 Xll INTBODUCTION. 
 
 to levy war or black-mail. Lochiel's lantern, the moon, shone 
 in vain at Michaelmas for a ereayh or foray. Instead of the 
 fiery cross to summon the clan, the bailiff now went round to 
 dun and distress for rent ! The law was paramount, heritable 
 jurisdiction was abolished, and feuds were transferred from the 
 clan and claymore to the Sheriff Court or the Parliament House 
 in Edinburgh. Rent had formerly been a subordinate con- 
 sideration. The value of the soil was in " man and steel, the 
 soldier and his sword;" and with these the Highland chief, like 
 the Cretan warrior, ploughed, and sowed, and reaped. Up to 
 the seventeenth century, the history of the Western Islands is 
 little else than a record of wars and tumults of revolts against 
 the Scottish crown, or of sanguinary feuds between the Mac- 
 donalds, the Macleans, and Macleods. The long Norwegian 
 sway in the Hebrides had not induced piratical habits among 
 the people. There were no native Vikings or buccaneers. The 
 Celtic blood preponderated, and determined the institutions, the 
 speech, and customs of the islanders. Some of their clan feuds 
 were of the most barbarous and revolting character. At one 
 time, we find the Macleods assaulted by the Macdonalds when 
 peacefully assembled in church : the building was suddenly sur- 
 rounded and set on fire, and the worshippers perished in the 
 flames ! On another occcasion, the Macleods chased some two 
 hundred of the Macdonalds into a cave by the sea- side in the 
 island of Eig, and, piling up huge fires at the mouth of the cave, 
 suffocated the miserable clansmen, whose bones still remain to 
 attest the deed. This atrocity is not without a parallel in 
 modern history: a French officer commanding in Algeria, in 
 the nineteenth century, had the incredible audacity and wicked- 
 ness to perpetrate the same enormity while waging war with 
 the natives. Long-protracted local hostilities desolated the 
 islands. At one time, the Macleods were compelled, in the 
 agony of hunger, to eat dogs and other unclean animals their 
 whole produce having been wasted and destroyed. Some
 
 INTRODUCTION. XU1 
 
 glimpses of chivalrous enterprise are interposed amidst these 
 outrages and sufferings. In the reign of Elizabeth, we find the 
 Chief of Dunvegan the famed " Rorie More," and the Chief of 
 the Macdonalds, leading each five hundred men to the shores of 
 Ulster to assist Red Hugh O'Donell in his contest with the 
 English Crown. And picturesque the sight must have been, as 
 the chief, in his twelve-oared galley, with a fleet of boats behind, 
 struck out from his island fastness by the black rocks, and the 
 rowers chanted the j'orram, or boat-song, with which they 
 solaced their toils and fatigues. The unbounded hospitality of 
 Rorie More made Dunvegan famous in song and tale. The 
 heroic old chief was knighted by King James VI., and was a 
 man of invincible courage and address, while his son and suc- 
 cessor, John More (who died in 1649), is said to have taken so 
 much pains to civilize the country, that he acquired the appel- 
 lation of " Lot in Sodom !" His grandson, John Breck Macleod, 
 was the last of the island chiefs who kept up the ancient feudal 
 retinue the bard, piper, harper, and jester. After his death 
 (which took place in 1693), we find a gradual approximation to 
 the customs and manners of the south, the chiefs acquiring new 
 wants and luxuries, and the clan becoming of less value than 
 the land. The affair of the Forty-five was the primary cause of 
 the pecuniary burdens which long encumbered and ultimately 
 overwhelmed the Macleod and many other Highland properties. 
 The system of agriculture then pursued in the Hebrides was 
 of the most wretched description. The uuclrained land was 
 perpetually subject to mildew or frost, and little winter food 
 being provided for the herds of black cattle that crowded every 
 hill and strath, whenever a severe season came the cattle died in 
 scores. Even the straw that might have helped to maintain 
 them was wasted and destroyed, in consequence of the people 
 preparing their corn by means of fire instead of thrashing and 
 kiln-drying it. The higher hills contained miles of fine Alpine 
 pasturage, but they were generally inaccessible to the cattle, and
 
 XIV INTRODUCTION. 
 
 only became of value when sheep-husbandry was extensively in- 
 troduced. Under such a system, high rents were ruinous even 
 moderate rents could hardly have been paid. Yet, after the 
 era of the Forty-five, when the last remains of feudal power 
 and homage were lost, most of the chiefs and other proprietors 
 adopted a higher scale of rents, and pressed the new system 
 with prompt and inconsiderate rigour. The tacksmen, or large 
 tenants, were deprived of their peculiar privilege of sub-letting 
 part of their lands, as the proprietor found he could obtain a 
 greater amount of rent and secure more authority as a landlord 
 when the people held directly under himself. The tacksmen 
 had thus to descend to the condition of ordinary farmers. They 
 were mostly men of gentle blood cadets of the chief's family. 
 Some had held commissions in the army, and all were hospitable 
 and profuse, their houses filled with servants, visitors, and de- 
 pendents. The new management and high rents took them by 
 surprise. They were indignant at the treatment they received, 
 and, selling off their stock, in disgust or despair, they emigrated 
 to America. In the twenty years from 1772 to 1792, sixteen 
 vessels with emigrants sailed from the western shores of Inver- 
 ness-shire and Ross-shire, containing about 6,400 persons, who 
 carried with them, in specie, at least 38,400. A desperate 
 effort was made by the tacksmen on the estate of Lord Mac- 
 donald, whom Johnson and Boswell accuse so broadly of parsi- 
 mony, meanness, and extortion. They bound themselves by a 
 solemn oath, copies of which are still extant, not to offer for any 
 farm that might become vacant, believing that they would thus 
 repress competition and continue low rents. The combination 
 failed of its object, but it appeared so formidable in the eyes of 
 the " English-bred chieftain," that he retreated precipitately 
 from Skye and never afterwards returned. Lord Macdonald, how- 
 ever, was popular with the small tenants, and had no difficulty, 
 in 1777, in raising a regiment in the Highlands and Isles. The 
 chiefs, it must be admitted, were, in some instances, sorely
 
 INTRODUCTION. XV 
 
 tried. The men of Kintail, for example, held a large tract of 
 land in Glengarry as a summer sheiling or grazing for their 
 cattle, for which they paid only 15 of annual rent. The 
 ground was examined by a sagacious sheep-farmer from the 
 dales in the south. He offered no less than 350 of rent about 
 half the value of the whole estate and, having obtained pos- 
 session, stocked it with Cheviot sheep, and died a richer man 
 than his laird. It was difficult for a needy embarrassed pro- 
 prietor to resist temptations like this. The patriarchal system 
 was forgotten, the stranger was preferred, and many of the 
 smaller tenants were dispossessed of their holdings, that the 
 farms might be enlarged and brought under an improved and 
 more profitable mode of culture. In the figurative language of 
 the country, a hundred smokes had to pass through one chim- 
 ney. An experiment of an opposite kind was made by one bene- 
 volent and active proprietor. This gentleman broke up one of 
 his finest farms in Skye, in order that he might give occupa- 
 tion to a number of small tenants born on his estate. They 
 obtained possession, but proved unable to cultivate their crofts 
 successfully, and the only result was a loss of 400 per annum 
 to the generous and unfortunate chief. 
 
 Johnson espoused the cause of the tacksmen with his charac- 
 teristic energy. The condition of the vast numbers under them, 
 does not appear to have attracted his attention. They were 
 
 suffered to 
 
 " Grow up and perish as the summer fly 
 Heads without name, no more remembered." 
 
 The tacksmen formed a body of resident gentry, and Johnson 
 conceived that the islands would be abandoned to grossness and 
 ignorance, if so many of the intelligent inhabitants left the 
 country. The error of the proprietors where there tvas error 
 (for in some instances the change was effected by mild and 
 gradual means) was in raising the rents too suddenly. Neither 
 the tacksmen, nor the people generally, had been trained to
 
 XVI INTRODUCTION. 
 
 steady industry. They had not been allowed time to shake off 
 the half military, half nomadic habits, in which they were 
 brought up : and though the chief was entitled to make the most 
 of his land, considerations of patriotism and humanity old 
 recollections and former ties should have operated to prevent 
 undue haste and severity. The exodus continued for many 
 years. Speculators and agents were busy at work painting the 
 charms of the new world, and the most extravagant expectations 
 were entertained. Even the war in America had little effect in 
 checking the tide of emigration. Carolina was the favourite 
 colony of the men of Skye and Mull ; and when hostilities broke 
 out, some hundreds of the exiles formed themselves into the 
 " Royal Highland Emigrant Regiment," which continued in 
 active service during the remainder of the war. There was 
 scarce an instance of the Highlanders joining the revolted 
 colonists. True to their native instincts and hereditary faith 
 (which even in rebellion was a mistaken principle of loyalty), 
 they adhered to the British monarchy, and justified the eulogium 
 which Chatham had pronounced on a former generation of their 
 countrymen, tha.t they " served with fidelity and fought with 
 valour." 
 
 The lairds ultimately became alarmed at the defection of 
 their people. They held consultations and solicited Govern- 
 ment to stay the emigrant ships. So late as 1 786, a meeting of 
 noblemen and gentlemen took place in London, at which the 
 Earl of Breadalbaae stated that five hundred persons had re- 
 solved to emigrate from the estate of Glengarry, and had sub- 
 scribed money and commissioned ships for the purpose. The 
 meeting took up the subject warmly, and agreed to co-operate 
 with Government to frustrate the design. At the same time 
 they represented the necessity of improving the fisheries, agri- 
 culture, and manufactures of the country, adding to their recom- 
 mendation a subscription of three thoiisand pounds. The design 
 was laudable and patriotic, but it proved a failure. Something
 
 INTRODUCTION. Xvii 
 
 was done towards encouraging the fisheries, but not on a scale 
 sufficiently extensive ; and no manufactures were introduced. 
 Had trades or manufactures been planted in the islands before 
 the southern districts engrossed the field, a general and per- 
 manent amelioration might have been effected in the condition 
 of the people. Though alien at first to their habits and predi- 
 lections, they would gradually have assimilated to their lowland 
 countrymen in industrial progress, and might have surmounted 
 the disadvantages of soil and climate. 
 
 The next chapter in Hebridean history shows a complete 
 reversal of the former policy, yet with results much the same. 
 We have, since the date of Johnson's visit, made a circuit of 
 near eighty years, and have returned to the same point. The 
 proprietors at length ceased to check emigration. Sheep-hus- 
 bandry was rapidly extending, roads were made, a high class of 
 tenants was obtained, and the large farms were managed with 
 assiduous skill and perseverance. The people, on the other hand, 
 when less required to stay, became less disposed to emigrate. 
 The more active and enterprising part of the population had gone. 
 The epidemic had ceased, the wars were over, and so long as 
 herrings visited the lochs, or potatoes flourished on the soil, or 
 the kelp manufacture gave a few weeks' profitable occupation in 
 summer, contentment or listlessness prevailed. There was no 
 stringent poor-law to force attention as to the population ; small 
 crofts, or patches of land, were easily obtained and subdivided at 
 will ; and hence the little turf -huts multiplied on the hill-side 
 and moors, the standard of civilization sunk lower, and the 
 population, despite all military and emigrant drains, was doubled 
 in amount. Thus, gradually but inevitably, as the people in- 
 creased, thousands of families came to depend wholly on one 
 article of food. That failed, and the sequel is well known. A 
 destitution crisis commenced in 1846 unequalled for intensity, 
 and which involved both chief and clan, landlord and tenant, in 
 irretrievable embarrassment and ruin. A second period of
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 transition, more painful than that witnessed by Johnson in 1773, 
 was induced, and though the immediate distress was mitigated 
 by the munificent generosity of the British nation, there seems 
 to be only one remedy or palliative, for the chronic malady 
 emigration. 
 
 Many of the old families commemorated by Johnson and 
 Boswell, have disappeared from the islands. Some have dropt 
 off from natural and unavoidable causes ; some through sheer 
 folly and extravagance ; and others have gone down while 
 struggling to support and replace their dependents. In Rasay, 
 Ulva, and Inchkenneth, the ancient familiar names are no longer 
 heard : " new people fill the land." In Skye, the " Siol Tor- 
 mod" of Dunvegan, and the descendant of Somerled of the Isles, 
 still hold their possessions ; and the Macleans of Coll retain 
 their island patrimony, but all have been grievously shattered 
 by the late storm. To a Scotchman, no more melancholy books 
 were ever published than those " Blue Books," printed by 
 authority of Parliament, in which is recorded the recent history 
 of the Western Islands. 
 
 To note some of these changes and supply local information, 
 has been the main object of the Editor of this new edition of Bos- 
 well's Journal. In order to verify facts and dates, he had to con- 
 sult various parties ; and though it may appear ostentatious or 
 ridiculous to parade a list of names before so small a literary per- 
 formance, he cannot deny himself the gratification of stating 
 that to the following gentlemen queries were addressed, and, in 
 every instance, courteous and satisfactory answers returned : 
 viz., Macleod, of Macleod ; Sheriff Frazer, of Portree ; A. K. 
 Mackinnon, Esq., Cony ; D. Macleod, Esq., Kingsburgh ; Rev. 
 J. Maciver, of Kilmuir ; Rev. D. Ross, of Tobermory; Rev. H. 
 Maclean, of Lochalsh ; R. Sinclair, Esq., Borlumbeg ; Niel 
 Maclean, Esq., Inverness ; W. A. Stables, Esq., Cawdor ; and 
 W. Forsyth, Esq., Aberdeen. 
 
 Inverness) March 20, 1852.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Introduction v 
 
 Contents xix 
 
 List of Illustrations xxv 
 
 Dedication to Edmond Malone, Esq. ... xxvii 
 
 Mr. Boswell's Advertisement to the Third Edition xxviii 
 
 INTRODUCTION . Character of Dr. Johnson. He arrives in Scotland. . . . 1-10 
 AUGUST 15. Sir William Forbes. Practice of the law. Emigration. Dr. Beattie 
 and Mr. Hume. Dr. Robertson. Air. Burke's various and extraordinary 
 talents. Question concerning genius. Whitfleld and Wesley. Instructions 
 to political parties. Dr. Johnson's opinion of Garrick as a tragedian. . 10 
 AUGUST 16. Ogden on Prayer. Aphoristic writing. Edinburgh surveyed. 
 Character of Swift's works. Evil spirits and witchcraft. Lord Wonboddo 
 
 and the Ouran-outang 19 
 
 AUGUST 17. Poetry and dictionary-writing. Scepticism. Eternal necessity 
 
 refuted. Lord Hailes's criticism on "The Vanity of Human Wishes." Mr. 
 
 Maclaudn. Decision of the Judges in Scotland on literary property. . . 28 
 
 AUGUST 18. Set out for the Hebrides. Sketch of the author's character. Trade 
 
 of Glasgow. Suicide. Inchkeith. Parliamentary knowledge. Influence of 
 
 peers. Popular clamours. Arrive at St. Andrew's 32 
 
 AUGUST 19. Dr. Watson. Literature and patronage. Writing and conversation 
 compared. Change of manners. The Union. Value of money. St. Andrew's 
 and John Knox. Retirement from the world. Dinner with the Professors. 
 Question concerning sorrow and content. Instructions for composition. Dr. 
 
 Johnson's method. Uncertainty of memory . 37 
 
 AUGUST 20. Effect of prayer. Observance of Sunday. Professor Shaw. Tran- 
 substantiation. Literary property. Mr. Tyers's remark on Dr. Johnson. 
 
 Arrive at Montrose ........45 
 
 AUGUST 21. Want of trees. Lawrence Kirk. Dinner at Monboddo. Emigration 
 Homer. Biography and history compared. Decrease of learning. Causes of 
 it. Promotion of bishops. Warburton. Lowth. Value of politeness. Dr. 
 Johnson's sentiments concerning Lord Monboddo. Arrive at Aberdeen. . 49 
 AUGUST 22. Professor Thomas Gordon. Public and private education. Sir 
 Alexander Gordon. Trade of Aberdeen. Prescription of murder in Scotland. 
 Mystery of the Trinity. Satisfaction of Christ. Importance of old friendships. 57 
 
 A" 2
 
 XX CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Ai GUST 23. Dr. Johnson made a burgess of Aberdeen. Dinner at Sir Alexander 
 
 Gordon's. Warburton's powers of invective. His " Doctrine of Grace." 
 
 Locke's verses. Fingal 61 
 
 AUGUST 24. Goldsmith, and Graham. Slain's castle. Education of children. 
 
 Buller of Buchan. Entails. Consequence of peers. Sir Joshua Keynolds. 
 
 Earl of Errol 66 
 
 AUGUST 25. The advantages of being on good terms with relations. Nabobs. 
 
 Feudal state of subordination. Dinner at Strichen. Life of country gentle- 
 men. The Literary Club 72 
 
 AUGUST 26. Lord Monboddo. Use and importance of wealth. Elgin. Macbeth's 
 
 Heath. Fores 76 
 
 AUGUST 27. Leonidas. Paul Whitehead. Derrick. Origin of evil. Caldermanse. 
 
 Reasonableness of ecclesiastical subscription. Family worship. ... 82 
 AUGUST 28. Fort George. Sir Adolphus Ouglton. Contest between Warburton 
 
 and Lowth. Dinner at Sir Eyre Coote's. Arab and English soldiers compared. 
 
 The stage. Mr. Garrick, Mrs. Gibber, Mrs. Pritchard, Mrs. Clive. Inverness 87 
 AUGUST 29. Macbeth's Castle. Incorrectness of -writers of travels. Coinage of 
 
 new words. Dr. Johnson's Dictionary 93 
 
 AUGUST 30. Dr. Johnson on horseback. A Highland hut. Fort Augustus. 
 
 Governor Trapaud 96 
 
 AUGUST 31. Anoch. Emigration. Goldsmith. Poets and soldiers compared. 
 
 Life of a sailor. Landlord's daughter at Anoeh 100 
 
 SEPTEMBER 1. Glensheal. The Macraes. Dr. Johnson's anger at being left for 
 
 a little while by the author on a wild plain. Wretched inn at Glenelg. . . 105 
 
 SEPTEMBER 2. Dr. Johnson relents. Isle of Sky. Armidale Ill 
 
 SEPTEMBER 3. Colonel Montgomery, now Earl of Eglintoune 114 
 
 SEPTEMBER 4. Ancient Highland enthusiasm 114 
 
 SEPTEMBER 5. Sir James Maedonald's epitaph and last letter to his mother. Dr. 
 
 Johnson's Latin ode on the Isle of Sky. Isaac Hawkins Browne. . . .115 
 SEPTEMBER 6. Corrichatachin. Highland hospitality and mirth. Dr. Johnson's 
 
 Latin ode to Mrs. Thrale 119 
 
 SEPTEMBER 7. Uneasy state of dependence on the weather. State of those who 
 
 live in the country. Dr. Macpherson's Dissertations. Second sight . . 121 
 SEPTEMBER 8. Rev. Mr. Donald Macqueen. Mr. Malcolm Macleod. Sail to 
 
 Rasay. Fingal. Homer. Elegant and gay entertainment at Rasay. . . 124 
 SEPTEMBER 9. Antiquity of the family of Rasay. Cure of infidelity. . . . 129 
 SEPTEMBER 10. Survey of the island of Rasay. Bentley. Mallet. Hooke. 
 
 Duchess of Marlborough 130 
 
 SEPTEMBER 11. Heritable jurisdictions. Insular life. The Laird of Macleod . 136 
 SEPTEMBER 12. Sail to Portree. Dr. Johnson's discourse on death. Letters from 
 
 Lord Elibank to Dr. Johnson and the author. Dr. Johnson's answer. Ride to 
 
 Kingsburgh. Flora Macdonald 139 
 
 SEPTEMBER 13. Distresses and escape of the grandson of King James II. Arrive 
 
 at Dunvegan 144 
 
 SEPTEMBER 14. Importance of the chastity of women. Dr. Cadogan. Whether 
 
 the Practice of authors is necessary to enforce their Doctrines. Good-humour 
 
 acquirable 164
 
 CONTENTS. XXI 
 
 PAGE 
 
 SEPTEMBER 15. Sir George Mackenzie. Mr. Burke's -wit, knowledge, and elo- 
 quence 166 
 
 SFPTEMBER 16. Dr. Johnson's hereditary melancholy. His minute knowledge in 
 various arts. Apology for the author's ardour in his pursuits. Dr. Johnson's 
 imaginary seraglio. Polygamy 169 
 
 SEPTEMBER 17. Cunning. Whether great abilities are necessary to be wicked. 
 Temple of the Goddess Anaitis. Family portraits. Records not consulted by 
 old English historians. Mr. Pennant's Tours criticised 171 
 
 SEPTEMBER 18. Ancient residence of a Highland chief. Languages the pedigree 
 
 of nations. Laird of the Isle of Muck 175 
 
 SEPTEMBER 19. Choice of a wife. Women an over-match for men. Lady Grange 
 in St. Kilda. Poetry of savages. French literati. Prize-fighting. French 
 and English soldiers. Duelling 178 
 
 SEPTEMBER 20. Change of London manners. Laziness censured. Landed and 
 
 traded interest compared. Gratitude considered 182 
 
 SEPTEMBER 21. Description of Dunvegan. Lord Lovat's pyramid. Ride to Ulinish. 
 
 Phipps's voyage to the North Pole 184 
 
 SEPTEMBER 22. Subterraneous house and vast cave in Ulinish. Swift's Lord 
 Orrery. Defects as well as virtues the proper subject of biography, though the 
 life was written by a friend. Studied conclusions of letters. Whether allow- 
 able in dying men to maintain resentment to the last. Instructions for writing 
 the lives of literary men. Fingal denied to be genuine, and pleasantly ridiculed 187 
 
 SEPTEMBER 23. Further disquisition concerning Fingal. Eminent men discovered 
 by a new mode of public appearance. Garrick. Mrs. Montagu's Essay on 
 Shakspeare. Persons of consequence watched in London. Learning of the 
 Scots from 1550 to 1650, The arts of civil life little known in Scotland till the 
 Union. Life of a sailor. The folly of Peter the Great in working in a dock- 
 yard. Arrive at Talisker. Presbyterian clergy deficient in learning . . 191 
 
 SEPTEMBER 24. French hunting. Young Col. Dr. Birch. Dr. Percy. Lord 
 
 Hailes. Historical impartiality. Whiggism unbecoming in a clergyman . 200 
 
 SEPTEMBER 25. Every island a prison. A Sky cottage. Return to Corrichatachin. 
 
 Good-fellowship carried to excess 202 
 
 SEPTEMBER 26. Morning review of Last night's intemperance. Old Kingsburgh's 
 Jacobite song. Lady Margaret Macdonald adored in Sky. Different views of 
 the same subject at different times. Self-deception 205 
 
 SEPTEMBER 27 .Dr. Johnson's popularity in the Isle of Sky. His good-humoured 
 
 gaiety with a Highland lady 208 
 
 SKPTEMBER 28. Ancient Irish pride of family. Dr. Johnson on threshing and 
 thatching. Dangerous to increase the price of labour. Arrive at Ostig. Dr. 
 Macpherson's Latin poetry 209 
 
 SEPTEMBER 29. Rev. Mr. Macpherson. Sheustone. llainmoud. Sir Charles 
 
 Hanbury AVilliams 213 
 
 SEPTEMBER 30. Mr. Burke the first man everywhere. Very moderate talents 
 requisite to make a figure in the House of Commons. Dr. Young. Dr. Dodd- 
 ridge. Increase of the infidel writings since the accession of the Hanover 
 family. Gradual impression made by Dr. Johnson. Particular minutes to be 
 kept of our studies 214
 
 XX11 CONTENTS. 
 
 PACK 
 
 OCTOBER 1 . Dr. Johnson not answerable for all the words in his Dictionary. At- 
 tacks on authors useful to them. Return to Armidale 217 
 
 OCTOBEK 2. Old manners of great families in Wales. German courts. Gold- 
 smith's love of talk. Emigration. Curious story of the people of St. 
 Kilda 218 
 
 OCTOBER 3. Epictetus on the voyage of death. Sail for Mull. A storm. Driven 
 
 into Col 221 
 
 OCTOBER 4. Dr. Johnson's mode of living in the Temple. His curious appearance 
 on a sheltie. Nature of sea-sickness. Burnet's " History of his own Times." 
 Difference between dedications and histories 225 
 
 OCTOBER 5. People may come to do anything by talking of it. The Rev. Mr. Hector 
 Maclean. Bayle. Leibnitz and Clarke. Survey of Col. Insular life. Arrive 
 at Breacacha. Dr. Johnson's power of ridicule 226 
 
 OCTOBER 6. Heritable jurisdictions. The opinion of philosophers concerning hap- 
 piness in a cottage considered. Advice to landlords 232 
 
 OCTOBER 7. Books the best solace in a state of confinement 234 
 
 OCTOBER 8. Pretended brother of Dr. Johnson. No redress for a man's name 
 being affixed to a foolish work. Lady Sidney Beauclerk. Carte's Life of the 
 Duke of Ormond. Col's cabinet. Letters of the great Montrose. Present 
 state of the island of Col 235 
 
 OCTOBER 9. Dr. Johnson's avidity for a variety of books. Improbability of a High- 
 land tradition. Dr. Johnson's delicacy of feeling 240 
 
 OCTOBER 10. Dependence of tenants on landlords 241 
 
 OCTOBER 11. London and Pekin compared. Dr. Johnson's high opinion of the 
 
 former 242 
 
 OCTOBER 12. Return to Mr. Macsweyn's. Other superstitions beside those con- 
 nected with religion. Dr. Johnson disgusted with coarse manners. His 
 peculiar habits 242 
 
 OCTOBER 13. Bustle not necessary to dispatch. Oats the food not of the Scotch 
 
 alone 244 
 
 OCTOBER 14. Arrive in Mull. Addison's " Remarks on Italy." Addison not much 
 conversant with Italian literature. The French masters of the art of accom- 
 modating literature. Their Ana. Racine. Corneille. Moliere. Fenelon. 
 Voltaire. Bossuet. Massillon. Bourdaloue. Virgil's description of the en- 
 trance into hell compared to a printing-house 245 
 
 OCTOBER J5. Erse Poetry. Danger of a knowledge of music. The propriety of 
 settling our affairs so as to be always prepared for death. Religion and lite- 
 rary attainments not to be described to young persons as too hard. Reception 
 of the travellers in their progress. Spence 249 
 
 OCTOBER 16. Miss Maclean. Account of Mull. The value of an oak walking-stick 
 in the Hebrides. Arrive at Mr. Macquarrie's in Ulva. Captain Macleod. 
 Second Sight. Mercheta Mulierum, and Borough-English. The grounds on 
 which the sale of an estate may be set aside in a court of equity . . . 252 
 
 OCTOBER 17. Arrive at Inchkenneth. Sir Allan Maclean and his daughters. None 
 but theological books should be read on Sunday. Dr. Campbell. Dr. Johnson 
 exhibited as a Highlander. Thoughts on drinking. Dr. Johnson's Latin 
 verses on Inchkenneth 25
 
 CONTENTS. XX111 
 
 PAGE 
 
 ( HTOBER 18. Young Col's various good qualities. No extraordinary talents requi- 
 site to success in trade. Dr. Solander. Mr. Burke. Dr. Johnson's intrepidity 
 and presence of mind. Singular custom in the islands of Col and Otaheite. 
 Further eulogium on young Col. Credulity of a Frenchman in foreign coun- 
 tries 259 
 
 OCTOBER 19. Death of young Col. Dr. Johnson slow of helief without strong evi- 
 dence. La Credulite des incredules. Coast of Mull. Nun's Island. Past scenes 
 pleasing in recollection. Land on Icolmkill 262 
 
 OCTOBER 20. Sketch of the ruins of Icolmkill. Influence of solemn scenes of piety. 
 
 Feudal authority in the extreme. Return to Mull . . . . . . 266 
 
 OCTOBER 21. Pulteny. Pitt. "Walpole. Mr. Wilkes. English and Jewish history 
 compared. Scotland composed of stone and water, and a little earth. Turkish 
 spy. Dreary ride to Lochbuy. Description of the laird 269 
 
 OCTOBKR 22. Uncommon breakfast offered to Dr. Johnson, and rejected. Loch- 
 buy's war-saddle. Sail to Oban 271 
 
 OCTOBER 23. Goldsmith's "Traveller." Pope and Cowley compared. Archibald 
 Duke of Argyle. Arrive at Inverary. Dr. Johnson drinks some whiskey, and 
 assigns his reasons. Letter from the author to Mr. Garrick. Mr. Garrick's 
 answer 273 
 
 OCTOBKH 24. Specimen of "Ogden on Prayer." " Hervey's Meditations." Dr. 
 Johnson's meditation on a pudding. Country neighbours. The author's visit 
 to the castle of Inverary. Perverse opposition to the influence of peers in 
 Ayrshire 278 
 
 OCTOBER 25. Dr. Johnson presented to the Duke of Argyle. Grandeur of hia 
 grace's seat. The author possesses himself in an embarrassing situation. 
 Honourable Archibald Campbell on " a middle state." The old Lord Towns- 
 bend. Question concerning luxury. Nice trait of character. Good principles 
 and bad practice. . . . 9 281 
 
 OCTOBER 26. A passage in Home's " Douglas," and one in " Juvenal," compared: 
 
 Neglect of religious buildings in Scotland. Arrive at Sir James Colquhoun's 286 
 
 OCTOBER 27. Dr. Johnson's letter to the Duke of Argyle. His grace's answer. 
 Loch Lomond. Dr. Johnson's sentiments on dress. Forms of prayer con- 
 sidered. Arrive at Mr. Smollett's 289 
 
 OCTOBER 28. Dr. Smollett's epitaph. Dr. Johnson's wonderful memory. His 
 
 alacrity during the tour. Arrive at Glasgow 291 
 
 OCTOBER 29. Glasgow surveyed. Attention of the professors to Dr. Johnson. 295 
 
 OCTOBER 30. Dinner at the Earl of London's. Character of that nobleman. 
 
 Arrive at Treesbank. 296 
 
 OCTOBER 31. Sir John Cuninghame, of Caprington 297 
 
 NOVEMBER 1. Kules for the distribution of charity. Castle of Dundonald. 
 
 Countess of Eglintoune. Alexander, Earl of Eglintoune 297 
 
 NOVEMBER 2. Arrive at Auchinleck. Character of Lord Auchinleck. His idea 
 
 of Dr. Johnson 299 
 
 NOVEMBER 3. Dr. Johnson's sentiments concerning the Highlands. Mr. Harris 
 
 of Salisbury 300 
 
 NOVEMBER 4. Auchinleck. Cattle without horns. Composure of mind, how far 
 
 attainable 301
 
 XXIV CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 NOVEMBER 5. Dr. Johnson's high respect for the English clergy . . . 304 
 NOVEMBER 6. Jx>rd Auchinleck and Dr. Johnson in collision .... 304 
 NOVEMBER 7 . Dr. Johnson's uniform piety. TTis dislike of Presbyterian worship 306 
 
 NOVEMBER 8. Arrive at Hamilton 306 
 
 NOVEMBER 9. The Duke of Hamilton's house. Arrive at Edinburgh . . 306 
 NOVEMBER 10. Lord Elibank. Difference in political principles increased by 
 opposition. Edinburgh Castle. Fingal. English credulity not less than 
 Scottish. Second sight. Garrick and Foote compared as companions. Mora- 
 vian missions and Methodism 307 
 
 NOVEMBER 11. History originally oral. Dr. Robertson's liberality of sentiment. 
 
 Rebellion natural to man 311 
 
 SUMMARY ACCOUNT of the manner in which Dr. Johnson spent his time from 
 November 12 to November 21. Lord Mansfield, Mr. Richardson. The private 
 life of an English judge. Dr. Johnson's high opinion of Dr. Robertson and 
 Dr. Blair. Letter from Dr. Blair to the author. Officers of the army often 
 ignorant of things belonging to their own profession. Academy for the deaf 
 and dumb. A Scotch Highlander and an English sailor. Attacks on authors 
 advantageous to them. Roslin Castle and Hawthornden. Dr. Johnson's 
 parody of Sir John Dalrymple's Memoir?. Arrive at Cranston. Dr. Johnson's 
 departure for London. Letters from Lord Hailes and Mr. Dempster to the 
 author. Letter from the Laird of Rasay to the author. The author's answer. 
 Dr. Johnson's advertisement, acknowledging a mistake in his "Journey to 
 the Western Islands." His letter to the Laird of Rasay. Letter from Sir 
 William Forbes to the author. Conclusion 336 
 
 APPENDIX .... ..._... . . 329
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Johnson's Visit to Flora Macdonald Frontispiece. 
 
 Johnson on a Highland Sheltie Title. 
 
 Edinburgh from James's Court PAGE 1 
 
 White Horse Inn, Edinburgh 7 
 
 Sir William Forbes 10 
 
 Dr. Adam Smith 14 
 
 Parliament House, Edinburgh 21 
 
 The Old Town, Edinburgh St. Giles's Church 22 
 
 Dr. William Robertso 23 
 
 Dr. Adam Fergusson 24 
 
 Holyrood House 25 
 
 Dr. Cullen 27 
 
 Lord Hailes 29 
 
 Dr. Alexander Webster 31 
 
 Cathedral of St. Andrews 40 
 
 Castle of St. Andrews 41 
 
 Archbishop Sharp's Monument 43 
 
 View of Montrose 48 
 
 Lord Monboddo 52 
 
 Aberdeen 65 
 
 Lord Errol 71 
 
 Elgin Cathedral 80 
 
 Fores Pillar 82 
 
 Cawdor Castle 84 
 
 Inverness 92 
 
 Loch Ness 97 
 
 Fort Augustus 101
 
 XXVI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAG 
 
 Johnson and Highland Children 108 
 
 Duntulm Castle 112 
 
 Johnson and Boswell's Journey to Rasay 125 
 
 Flora Macdonald 143 
 
 Prince Charles Edward 148 
 
 Dunvegan Castle 163 
 
 Cup at Dunvegan . .167 
 
 St. Kilda 180 
 
 The Quern ..." 203 
 
 Johnson and Hector Maclean 228 
 
 Johnson giving Alms 233 
 
 Staffa 264 
 
 Loch Awe 274 
 
 Kilchurn Castle 275 
 
 Inverary 278 
 
 Inverary Castle 282 
 
 The Duchess of Hamilton 283 
 
 Johnson and Lady Betty Hamilton 286 
 
 Loch Lomond 290 
 
 Glasgow ...... ... .... 294 
 
 Johnson enjoying a Coal Fire . . . . 295
 
 AUTHOR'S DEDICATION. 
 
 TO 
 
 EDMOND MALONE, ESQ. 
 
 MY DEAR SIR, In every narrative, whether historical or biographical, 
 authenticity is of the utmost consequence. Of this I have ever been so 
 firmly persuaded, that I inscribed a former work to that person who was the 
 best judge of its truth. I need not tell you I mean General Paoli ; who, after 
 his great, though unsuccessful, efforts to preserve the liberties of his country, 
 has found an honourable asylum in Britain, where he has now lived man^ 
 years the object of royal regard and private respect ; and whom I cannot 
 name without expressing my very grateful sense of the uniform kindness 
 which he has been pleased to show me. 
 
 The friends of Doctor Johnson can best judge, from internal evidence, 
 whether the numerous conversations, which form the most valuable part of 
 the ensuing pages, are correctly related. To them, therefore, I wish to ap- 
 peal, for the accuracy of the portrait here exhibited to the wcrld. 
 
 As one of those who were intimately acquainted with him, you have a 
 title to this address. You have obligingly taken the trouble to peruse the 
 original manuscript of this Tour, and can vouch for the strict fidelity of the 
 present publication. Your literary alliance with our much lamented friend, 
 in consequence of having undertaken to render one of his labours more com- 
 plete, by your edition of Shakspeare, a work which I am confident will not 
 disappoint the expectations of the public, gives you another claim. But I 
 have a still more powerful inducement to prefix your name to this volume, as 
 it gives me an opportunity of letting the world know that I enjoy the honour 
 and happiness of your friendship ; and of thus publicly testifying the sincere 
 regard with which I am, 
 
 My dear Sir, 
 
 Your very faithful and obedient Servant, 
 
 JAMES BOSWELL. 
 
 LONDON, 
 
 20tt September, 1785.
 
 ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 TO THE THIRD EDITION. 
 
 ANIMATED by the very favourable reception which two large impressions of 
 this work have had, it has been my study to make it as perfect as I could in 
 this edition, by correcting some inaccuracies which I discovered myself, and 
 some which the kindness of friends, or the scrutiny of adversaries pointed 
 out. A few notes are added, of which the principal object is, to refute mis- 
 representation and calumny. 
 
 To the animadversions in the periodical journals of criticism, and in the 
 numerous publications to which my book has given rise, I have made no 
 answer. Every work must stand or fall by its own merit. I cannot, how- 
 ever, omit this opportunity of returning thanks to a gentleman who published 
 a Defence of my Journal, and has added to the favour by communicating his 
 name to me in a very obliging letter. 
 
 It would be an idle waste of time to take any particular notice of the 
 futile remarks, to many of which, a petty national resentment, unworthy of 
 my countrymen, has probably given rise ; remarks which have been indus- 
 triously circulated in the public prints by shallow or envious cavillers, who 
 have endeavoured to persuade the world that Dr. Johnson's character has 
 been lessened by recording such various instances of his lively wit and acute 
 judgment, on every topic that was presented to his mind. In the opinion of 
 every person of taste and knowledge that I have conversed with, it has been 
 greatly heightened ; and I will venture to predict, that this specimen of the 
 colloquial talents and extemporaneous effusions of my illustrious fellow-tra- 
 veller will become still more valuable, when, by the lapse of time, he shall 
 have become an ancient ; when all those who can now bear testimony to the 
 transcendant powers of his mind, shall have passed away ; and no other me- 
 morial of this great and good man shall remain but the following Journal, the 
 other anecdotes and letters preserved by his friends, and those incomparable 
 works, which have for many years been in the highest estimation, and will 
 be read and admired as long as the English language shall be spoken or 
 understood. 
 
 J. B. 
 
 LONDON, 
 
 15th August, 1786.
 
 EDI.111UHOH FROM 1 AMKg'g-COGKT. 
 
 THE JOURNAL 
 
 TOUR TO THE HEBRIDES, 
 
 SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL.D. 
 
 PR. JOHNSON had for many years given me hopes that we should go 
 together and visit the Hebrides. Martin's Account of those islands 
 had impressed us with a notion that we might there contemplate a 
 system of life almost totally different from what we had been accus- 
 tomed to see ; and to find simplicity and wildness, and all the circum- 
 stances of remote time or place, so near to our native great island, 
 was an object within the reach of reasonable curiosity. Dr. Johnson 
 has said in his "Journey," that he scarcely remembered how the wish 
 to visit the Hebrides was excited ; but he told me, in summer, 1763, 
 that his father put Martin's Account into his hands when he was very 
 young, and that he was much pleased with it. We reckoned there 
 would be some inconveniences and hardships, and perhaps a little
 
 2 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 danger; but these we were persuaded were magnified in the ima- 
 gination of everybody. When I was at Ferney, in 1764, I mentioned 
 our design to Voltaire. He looked at me, as if I had talked of going 
 to the North Pole, and said, " You do not insist on my accompanying 
 you?" " No, sir." " Then I am very willing you should go." I was 
 not afraid that our curious expedition would be prevented by such 
 apprehensions ; but I doubted that it would not be possible to prevail 
 on Dr. Johnson to relinquish, for some time, the felicity of a London 
 life, which, to a man who can enjoy it with full intellectual relish, 
 is apt to make existence in any narrower sphere seem insipid or irk- 
 some. I doubted that he would not be willing to come down from 
 his elevated state of philosophical dignity; from a superiority of 
 wisdom among the wise, and of learning among the learned ; and 
 from flashing his wit upon minds bright enough to reflect it. 
 
 He had disappointed my expectations so long, that I began to 
 despair; but in spring, 1773, he talked of coming to Scotland that 
 year with so much firmness, that I hoped he was at last in earnest. 
 I knew that if he were once launched from the metropolis he would 
 go forward very well ; and I got our common friends there to assist in 
 setting him afloat. To Mrs. Thrale in particular, whose enchantment 
 over him seldom failed, I was much obliged. It was, " I'll give thee a 
 wind." " Thou art kind." To attract him, we had invitations from 
 the chiefs Macdonald and Macleod ; and, for additional aid, I wrote 
 to Lord Elibank, Dr. William Robertson, and Dr. Beattie. 
 
 To Dr. Robertson, so far as my letter concerned the present sub- 
 ject, I wrote as follows : 
 
 "Our friend, Mr. Samuel Johnson, is in great health and spirits; 
 and, I do think, has a serious resolution to visit Scotland this year. 
 The more attraction, however, the better ; and therefore, though I 
 know he will be happy to meet you there, it will forward the scheme 
 if, in your answer to this, you express yourself concerning it with 
 that power of which you are so happily possessed, and which may be 
 so directed as to operate strongly upon him." 
 
 His answer to that part of my letter was quite as I could have 
 wished. It was written with the address and persuasion of the 
 historian of America. 
 
 " When I saw you last, you gave us some hopes that you might 
 prevail with Mr. Johnson to make out that excursion to Scotland with 
 the expectation of which we have long flattered ourselves. If he could 
 order matters so as to pass some time in Edinburgh about the close 
 of the summer session, and then visit some of the Highland scenes, 
 I am confident he would be pleased with the grand features of nature 
 in many parts of this country : he will meet with many persons here
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES: 3 
 
 who respect him, and some whom I am persuaded he will think not 
 unworthy of his esteem. I wish he would make the experiment. He 
 sometimes cracks his jokes upon us ; but he will find that we can dis- 
 tinguish between the stabs of malevolence, and " the rebukes of the 
 righteous which are like excellent oil,* and break not the head." 
 Offer my best compliments to him, and assure him that 1 shall be 
 happy to have the satisfaction of seeing him under my roof." 
 
 To Dr. Beattie I wrote, " The chief intention of this letter is to 
 inform you that I now seriously believe Mr. SamuelJohnson will visit 
 Scotland this year : but I wish that every power of attraction may 
 be employed to secure our having so valuable an acquisition, and 
 therefore I hope you will without delay write to me what I know you 
 think, that I may read it to the mighty sage, with proper emphasis, 
 before I leave London, which I must do soon. He talks of you with 
 the same warmth that he did last year. We are to see as much of 
 Scotland as we can, in the months of August and September. We 
 shall not be long of being at Marischal College.! He is particu- 
 larly desirous of seeing some of the Western Islands." 
 
 Dr. Beattie did better : ipse venit. He was, however, so polite as 
 to waive his privilege of nil mihi rescribas, and wrote from Edinburgh, 
 as follows : 
 
 " Your very kind and agreeable favour of the 20th of April over- 
 took me here yesterday, after having gone to Aberdeen, which place 
 I left about a week ago. I am to set out this day for London, and 
 hope to have the honour of paying my respects to Mr. Johnson and 
 you, about a week or ten days hence. I shall then do what I can 
 to enforce the topic you mention ; but at present I cannot enter upon 
 it, as I am in a very great hurry ; for I intend to begin my journey 
 within an hour or two." 
 
 He was as good as his word, and threw some pleasing motives 
 into the northern scale. But, indeed, Mr. Johnson loved all that he 
 heard from one whom he tells us, in his Lives of the Poets, Gray 
 found " a poet, a philosopher, and a good man." 
 
 My Lord Elibank did not answer my letter to his lordship for 
 some time. The reason will appear, when we come to the Isle of 
 Sky. I shall then insert my letter, with letters from his lordship both 
 to myself and Mr. Johnson. I beg it may be understood, that I 
 insert my own letters, as I relate my own sayings, rather as keys 
 to what is valuable belonging to others, than for their own sake. 
 
 Our friend Edmund Burke, who by this time had received some pretty severe 
 strokes from Dr. Johnson, on account of the unhappy difference in their politics, upon 
 my repeating this passage to him exclaimed, " Oil of vitriol!" BOSWELL. 
 
 ) This, I find, is a Scotticism. I should have said, " It will not be long before we 
 shall be at Marischal College." BOSWELL. 
 
 B2
 
 4 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Luckily, Mr. Justice (now Sir Robert) Chambers, who was about 
 to sail for the East Indies, was going to take leave of his relations at 
 Newcastle, and he conducted Dr Johnson to that town. Mr. Scott, 
 of University College, Oxford (now Dr. Scott, of the Commons), 
 accompanied him from thence to Edinburgh.* With such propitious 
 convoys did he proceed to my native city. But, lest metaphor should 
 make it be supposed be actually went by sea, I choose to mention 
 that he travelled in post-chaises, of which the rapid motion was one 
 of his most favourite amusements. 
 
 Dr. Samuel Johnson's character, religious, moral, political and lite- 
 rary, nay his figure and manner, are, I believe, more generally known 
 than those of almost any man ; yet it may not be superfluous here to 
 attempt a sketch of him. Let my readers, then, remember that he 
 was a sincere and zealous Christian, of high Church of England and 
 monarchical principles, which he would not tamely suffer to be ques- 
 tioned ; steady and inflexible in maintaining the obligations of piety 
 and virtue, both from a regard to the order of society and from a 
 veneration for the great source of all order ; correct, nay stern in his 
 taste ; hard to please and easily offended, impetuous and irritable in 
 his temper, but of a most humane and benevolent heart; having a 
 mind stored with a vast and various collection of learning and know- 
 ledge, which he communicated with peculiar perspicuity and force, in 
 rich and choice expression. He united a most logical head with a 
 most fertile imagination, which gave him an extraordinary advantage 
 in arguing ; for he could reason close or wide, as he saw best for the 
 moment. He could, when he chose it, be the greatest sophist that 
 ever wielded a weapon in the schools of declamation ; but he in- 
 dulged this only in conversation ; for he owned he sometimes talked 
 for victory; he was too conscientious to make error permanent and 
 pernicious, by deliberately writing it. He was conscious of his supe- 
 riority. He loved praise when it was brought to him ; but was too 
 proud to seek for it. He was somewhat susceptible of flattery. His 
 mind was so full of imagery that he might have been perpetually a 
 poet. It has been often remarked, that in his poetical pieces, which 
 it is to be regretted are so few, because so excellent, his style is easier 
 
 * Scott and Chambers were both natives of Newcastle and members of University 
 College, Oxford, where Johnson made their acquaintance. He retained through life a 
 strong affection for his young friends, whose subsequent career justified his partiality. 
 Sir Robert Chambers continued long in India : in 1791 he succeeded Sir Elijah Impey as 
 Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of Judicature at Fort William, Bengal. His friend 
 at home, as Sir William Scott, and afterwards Lord Stowell, presided with eminent 
 ability over the Consistory and Admiralty Courts. He died in 1836, aged ninety. 
 Scott was one of the executors named in Dr. Johnson's will, a trust which he would 
 probably have shared with Sir Eobert Chambers had the latter remained in the country. 
 ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES 
 
 than in his prose. There is deception in this: it is not easier, but 
 better suited to the dignity of verse ; as one may dance with grace 
 whose motions in ordinary walking, in the common step, are awkward. 
 He had a constitutional melancholy, the clouds of which darkened 
 the brightness of his fancy, and gave a gloomy cast to his whole 
 course of thinking ; yet, though grave and awful in his deportment, 
 when he thought it necessary or proper he frequently indulged himself 
 in pleasantry and sportive sallies. He was prone to superstition, 
 but not to credulity. Though his imagination might incline him to a 
 belief of the marvellous and the mysterious, his vigorous reason ex- 
 amined the evidence with jealousy. He had a loud voice, and a slow 
 deliberate utterance, which no doubt gave some additional weight to 
 the sterling metal of his conversation.* His person was large, robust, 
 I may say approaching to the gigantic, and grown unwieldy from 
 corpulency. His countenance was naturally of the cast of an ancient 
 statue, but somewhat disfigured by the scars of that evil, which, it was 
 formerly imagined, the royal touch could cure. He was now in his 
 sixty-fourth year, and was become a little dull of hearing. His sight 
 had always been somewhat weak ; yet, so much does mind govern, 
 and even supply the deficiency of organs, that his perceptions were 
 uncommonly quick and accurate. His head, and sometimes also his 
 body, shook with a kind of motion like the effect of a palsy ; he ap- 
 peared to be frequently disturbed by cramps, or convulsive contrac- 
 tions,! of the nature of that distemper called " St. Vitus's dance." He 
 wore a full suit of plain brown clothes, with twisted-hair-buttons of the 
 same colour, a large bushy greyish wig, a plain shirt, black worsted 
 stockings, and silver buckles. Upon this tour, when journeying, he 
 wore boots, and a very wide brown cloth great coat, with pockets 
 which might have almost held the two volumes of his folio dictionary; 
 and he carried in his hand a large English oak stick. Let me not 
 
 * Lord Pembroke said once to me at Wilton, with a happy pleasantry and some 
 truth, that " Dr. Johnson's sayings would not appear so extraordinary were it not for his 
 bow-wow way:" but I admit the truth of this only en some occasions. The " Messiah," 
 played upon the Canterbury organ, is more sublime than when played upon an inferior 
 instrument: but very slight music will seem grand when conveyed to the ear through 
 that majestic medium. While, therefore. Dr. Johnson's sayings are read, let his manner 
 be taken along with them. Let it, however, be observed, that the sayings themselves are 
 generally great ; that though he might be an ordinary composer at times, he was for the 
 most part a Handel. BOSWELL. 
 
 + Such they appeared to me ; but since the first edition, Sir Joshua Reynolds hag 
 observed to me, " that Dr. Johnson's extraordinary gestures were only habits, in which 
 he indulged himself at certain times. When in company, where he was not free, or 
 when engaged earnestly in conversation, he never gave way to such habits, which 
 proves that they were not involuntary." I still, however, think, that these gestures were 
 involuntary ; for surely had not that been the case, he would have restrained them in the 
 public streets. BOSWELL.
 
 6 JOURNAL OF A TODR 
 
 be censured for mentioning such minute particulars. Everything 
 relative to so great a man is worth observing. I remember Dr. Adam 
 Smith, in his rhetorical lectures at Glasgow, told us he was glad to 
 know that Milton wore latchets in his shoes, instead of buckles.* 
 When I mention the oak stick, it is but letting Hercules have his 
 club ; and, by-and-by, my readers will find this stick will bud, and 
 produce a good joke. 
 
 This imperfect sketch of " the combination and the form " of that 
 wonderful man whom I venerated and loved while in this world, and 
 after whom I gaze with humble hope now that it has pleased Almighty 
 God to call him to a better world, will serve to introduce to the fancy 
 of my readers the capital object of the following Journal, in the course 
 of which I trust they will attain to a considerable degree of acquaint- 
 ance with him. 
 
 His prejudice against Scotland was announced almost as soon as 
 he began to appear in the world of letters. In his " London," a poem, 
 are the following nervous lines. 
 
 " For who would leave, unbribed, Hibernia's land, 
 Or change the rocks of Scotland for the Strand ? 
 There none are swept by sudden fate away ; 
 But all whom hunger spares with age decay." 
 
 The truth is, like the ancient Greeks and Romans, he allowed 
 himself to look upon all nations but his own as barbarians : not only 
 Hibernia and Scotland, but Spain, Italy, and France are attacked in 
 the same poem. If he was particularly prejudiced against the Scots, 
 it was because they were more in his way ; because he thought their 
 success in England rather exceeded the due proportion of their real 
 merit ; and because he could not but see in them that nationality 
 which I believe no liberal-minded Scotsman will deny. He was, 
 indeed, if 1 may be allowed the phrase, at bottom much of a John 
 Bull; much of a blunt true-born Englishman. There was a stratum 
 of common clay under the rock of marble. He was voraciously fond 
 of good eating ; and he had a great deal of that quality called humour, 
 which gives an oiliness and a gloss to every other quality. 
 
 I am, I flatter myself, completely a citizen of the world. In my 
 travels through Holland, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Corsica, France, 
 I never felt myself from home ; and I sincerely love " every kindred 
 and tongue and people and nation." I subscribe to what my late 
 
 * It is probable that Boswell, then a young student, had misapprehended the remark 
 of his professor. The pictures of Vandyke and Lely make us familiar with the costume 
 of Milton's days, and in none of their portraits will shoe-buckles be found. The 
 poet, no doubt, conformed to the general fashion, by using silk laces, plain or tagged 
 with silver. The buckle was not introduced till about the time of the Revolution. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 7 
 
 truly learned and philosophical friend Mr. Crosbie said, that the Eng- 
 lish are better animals than the Scots ; they are nearer the sun ; their 
 blood is richer and more mellow ; but when 1 humour any of them iu 
 an outrageous contempt of Scotland, I fairly own I treat them as 
 children. And thus I have at some moments found myself obliged 
 to treat even Dr. Johnson. 
 
 To Scotland, however, he ventured ; and he returned from it in 
 great good humour, with his prejudices much lessened, and with very 
 grateful feelings of the hospitality with which he was treated ; as is 
 evident from that admirable work, his " Journey to the Western 
 Islands of Scotland," which, to my utter astonishment, has been 
 misapprehended, even to rancour, by many of my countrymen. 
 
 To have the company of Chambers and Scott, he delayed his 
 journey so long that the Court of Session, which rises on the eleventh 
 of August, was broke up before he got to Edinburgh. 
 
 WUITE HOUSE 
 
 On Saturday the fourteenth of August, 1773, late in the evening, 
 I received a note from him, that he was arrived at Boyd's inn, at the 
 head of the Canon-gate. * I went to him directly. He embraced me 
 
 This inn, which bore the sign of the White Horse, was in the palmy days of tha 
 picturesque Old Town the first hostelry in the city of Edinburgh. It gradually de- 
 clined in importance as the New Town and a higher standard of social comfort advanced ; 
 but Boyd the landlord was able to retire from business, as Mr. Chambers states in his 
 " Traditions of Edinburgh" with a fortune of several thousand pounds, besides possess- 
 ing in his establishment (what Johnson would not have credited) napery, or linen, of the
 
 8 JOURNAL OF A TOPR 
 
 cordially ; and I exulted in the thought that I now had him actually 
 in Caledonia. Mr. Scott's amiable manners and attachment to our 
 Socrates at once united me to him. He told me that, before I came 
 in, the Doctor had unluckily had a bad specimen of Scottish cleanli- 
 ness. He then drank no fermented liquor. He asked to have his 
 lemonade made sweeter; upon which the waiter, with his greasy fin- 
 gers, lifted a lump of sugar, and put it into it. The Doctor, in 
 indignation, threw it out of the window. Scott said he was afraid he 
 would have knocked the waiter down. Mr. Johnson told me that such 
 another trick was played him at the house of a lady in Paris. He 
 was to do me the honour to lodge under my roof.* I regretted sin- 
 cerely that I had not also a room for Mr. Scott. Mr. Johnson and I 
 walked arm-in-arm up the High- street, to my house in James' s-court. 
 It was a dusky night : I could not prevent his being assailed by the 
 evening effluvia of Edinburgh. I heard a late baronet, of some dis- 
 tinction in the political world in the beginning of the present reign, 
 observe, that " walking the streets of Edinburgh at night was pretty 
 perilous, and a good deal odoriferous." The peril is much abated, by 
 the care which the magistrates have taken to enforce the city laws 
 against throwing foul water from the windows ; but from the structure 
 of the houses in the Old Town, which consist of many storeys, in each 
 of which a different family lives, and there being no covered sewers, 
 the odour still continues. A zealous Scotsman would have wished 
 Mr. Johnson to be without one of his five senses upon this occasion. 
 As we marched slowly along, he grumbled in my ear, " I smell you 
 in the dark !" But he acknowledged that the breadth of the street, 
 and the loftiness of the buildings on each side, made a noble appear- 
 ance. 
 
 value of 500. The inn was used as a coaching-house, then as a place of entertainment 
 for carriers and humble country visitors ; and finally the White Horse was taken down 
 as no longer able to stand competition in any shape. The house is now a miserable 
 dirty and squalid dwelling or series of dwellings of the lowest order. Nothing gives 
 one a more vivid impression of the changes effected in Scottish society, tastes and habits, 
 within the last seventy or eighty years, than a visit to t the old taverns and closes of the 
 Canongate. Yet in these dark and narrow dens wits and nobles revelled, high-born 
 beauties kept state, and poets, philosophers, and historians studied many of them 
 withal living tojextreme old age, and partaking of much social and festive enjoyment. 
 ED. 
 
 Johnson, in a letter to Mrs. Thrale, written on the third day after his arrival in 
 Edinburgh, describes Boswell's rooms as being level with the ground on one side of the 
 house, and on the other four storeys high. They are now occupied as a printing- 
 establiihment. David Hume had shortly before occupied a similar suite of rooms, or 
 flat, higher up in the same pile of building. The situation is airy and commanding, 
 overlooking the Frith ; and James's-court was then a patrician and fashionable quarter 
 of the town. The tall massive buildings remain, but the rooms have ceased to appear, as 
 they did to Hume, " very cheerful and even elegant," or as Johnson considered them , 
 very handsom e and spacious.*' ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 9 
 
 My wife had tea ready for him, which it is well known he delighted 
 to drink at all hours, particularly when sitting up late, and of which 
 his able defence against Mr. Jonas Hanway should have obtained him 
 a magnificent reward from the East-India Company.* He showed 
 much complacency upon finding that the mistress of the house was so 
 attentive to his singular habit ; and as no man could be more polite 
 when he chose to be so, his address to her was most courteous and 
 engaging; and his conversation soon charmed her into a forgetfulness 
 of his external appearance. 
 
 I did not begin to keep a regular full journal till some days after 
 we had set out from Edinburgh ; but I have luckily preserved a good 
 many fragments of his Memorabilia from his very first evening in 
 Scotland. 
 
 We had, a little before this, had a trial for murder, in which the 
 judges had allowed the lapse of twenty years since its commission as 
 a plea in bar, in conformity with the doctrine of prescription in the 
 civil law, which Scotland and several other countries have adopted. 
 He at first disapproved of this; but then he thought there was some 
 thing in it, if there had been for twenty years a neglect to prosecute 
 a crime which was known. He would not allow that a murder, by 
 not being discovered for twenty years, should escape punishment. We 
 talked of the ancient trial by duel. He did not think it so absurd as 
 is generally supposed ; "For," said he, "it was only allowed when the 
 question was in equilibria, as when one affirmed and another denied ; 
 and they had a notion that Providence would interfere in favour of 
 him who was in the right. But as it was found that in a duel he who 
 was in the right had not a better chance than he who was in the 
 wrong, therefore society instituted the present mode of trial, and gave 
 the advantage to him who is in the right." 
 
 We sat till near two in the morning, having chatted a good while 
 after my wife left us. She had insisted that, to show all respect to 
 the sage, she would give up her own bed-chamber to him and take a 
 worse. This I cannot but gratefully mention, as one of a thousand 
 obligations which I owe her, since the great obligation of her being 
 pleased to accept of me as her husband. 
 
 * The defence appeared in the "Literary Mag-azine," in a review of " A Journal of 
 Eight Days' Journey" by Hanway. In this critique Johnson avows himself to be "a har- 
 dened and shameless tea-drinker, who has for twenty years diluted his meals with only 
 the infusion of this fascinating plant; whose kettle has scarcely .time to cool; who with 
 tea amuses the evening, with tea solaces the midnight, and with tea welcomes the morn- 
 ing." He traces the rise and progress of tea-drinking. Tea, he says, was first imported 
 from Holland by the Earls of Arlington and Ossory in 1666; from their ladies the women 
 of quality learned its use. Its price was then 3/. a pound, and continued the same to 
 1707. In 1715 we began to use green tea, and the practice of drinking it descended to the 
 lower classes of the people. ED.
 
 10 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOUB 
 
 SIR WILLIAM FORBES. 
 
 SUNDAY, AUGUST 15. 
 
 Mr. Scott came to breakfast, at 
 which I introduced to Dr. Johnson and 
 him my friend Sir William Forbes, 
 now of Pitsligo ; a man of whom too 
 much good cannot be said ; who, with 
 distinguished abilities and application 
 in his profession of a banker, is at once 
 a good companion and a good Christian, 
 which I think is saying enough. Yet it 
 is but justice to record, that once, when 
 he was in a dangerous illness, he was 
 watched with the anxious apprehension 
 of a general calamity ; day and night 
 his house was beset with affectionate 
 inquiries ; and upon his recovery, Te 
 Deum was the universal chorus from the 
 hearts of his countrymen.* 
 
 Mr. Johnson was pleased with my 
 daughter Veronica,f then a child of 
 about four months old. She had the 
 appearance of listening to him. His 
 motions seemed to her to be intended 
 for her amusement; and when he stopped 
 she fluttered, and made a little infantine 
 noise, and a kind of signal for him to 
 begin again. She would be held close 
 to him ; which was a proof, from simple 
 nature, that his figure was not horrid. 
 Her fondness for him endeared her still 
 
 This excellent citizen and patriot was born at Edinburgh, April 5th, 1739, and died 
 there November 12th, 1806. 
 
 " Scarce had lamented Forbes paid 
 The tribute to his minstrel's shade, 
 The tale of friendship scarce was told, 
 Ere the narrator's heart was culd 
 Far may we search before we find 
 A heart so manly and so kind." 
 
 MARMION, INTROD. CANTO IV. 
 
 Scott here alludes to Sir W. Forbes's " Life of Dr. Bcattie," a copious and inte- 
 resting memoir. Independently of his exertions and honours as a banker and citizen of 
 Edinburgh, Sir William was a great and beneficent rural improver. He had, like Warren 
 Hastings, been able to realise an early and strong desire to recover the ancient inheri- 
 tance of his family, which was forfeited to the Crown in 1746, and had afterwards passed 
 through different hands. This he accomplished, adding to the purchase other contiguous 
 lands, on which he planted a village, built and endowed a church and schools, and proved 
 himself to be emphatically the father of his people. ED. 
 
 t The saint's name of Veronica was introduced into our family through my reat-
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 11 
 
 more to me, and I declared she should have five hundred pounds of 
 additional fortune. 
 
 We talked of the practice of the law. Sir William Forbes said 
 he thought an honest lawyer should never undertake a cause which 
 he was satisfied was not a just one. " Sir," said Mr. Johnson, " a lawyer 
 has no business with the justice or injustice of the cause which he 
 undertakes, unless his client ask his opinion, and then he is bound to 
 give it honestly. The justice or injustice of the cause is to be decided 
 by the judge. Consider, sir, what is the purpose of courts of justice. 
 It is that every man may have his cause fairly tried, by men ap- 
 pointed to try causes. A lawyer is not to tell what he knows to be a 
 lie ; he is not to produce what he knows to be a false deed ; but he is 
 not to usurp the province of the jury and the judge, and determine 
 what shall be the effect of evidence what shall be the result of legal 
 argument. As it rarely happens that a man is fit to plead his own 
 cause, lawyers are a class of the community who by study and expe- 
 rience have acquired the art and power of arranging evidence, and of 
 applying to the points at issue what the law has settled. A lawyer 
 is to do for his client all that his client might fairly do for himself, 
 if he could. If by a superiority of attention, of knowledge, of skill, 
 and a better method of communication, he has the advantage of his 
 adversary, it is an advantage to which he is entitled. There must 
 always be some advantage, on one side or other ; and it is better 
 that advantage should be had by talents than by chance. If lawyers 
 were to undertake no causes till they were sure they were just, a 
 man might be precluded altogether from a trial of his claim, though, 
 were it judicially examined, it might be found a very just claim." 
 This was sound, practical doctrine, and rationally repressed a too re- 
 fined scrupulosity of conscience. 
 
 Emigration was at this time a common topic of discourse. Dr. 
 
 grandmother Veronica, Countess of Kincardine, a Dutch lady of the noble house of Som- 
 melsdyck, of which there is a full account in Bayle's Dictionary. The family had once a 
 princely right in Surinam. The governor of that settlement was appointed by the States 
 General, the town of Amsterdam, and Sommelsdyck. The States General have acquired 
 Sommelsdyck's right ; but the family has still great dignity and opulence, and by inter- 
 marriages is connected with many other noble families. When I was at the Hague 1 
 was received with all the affection of kindred. The present Sommelsdyck has an im- 
 portant charge in the Republic, and is as worthy a man as lives. He has honoured me 
 with his correspondence for these twenty years. My great-grandfather, the husband of 
 the Countess Veronica, was Alexander, Earl of Kincardine, that eminent Royalist, whose 
 character is given by Burnet in his History of his own Times. From him the blood 
 of Bruce flows in my veins. Of such ancestry who would not be proud 1 And as Nlhil 
 eat, nisi hoc sciat alter, is peculiarly true of genealogy, who would not be glad to seize a 
 fair opportunity to let it be known ? BOSWELL. 
 
 [Miss Veronica Boswell lived to repay her father's doating fondness by watching ovet 
 him with unwearied care during his last illness. Her pious labours hastened her own 
 death, which took place Sept. 26, 1795, in her twenty-second year. ED.]
 
 12 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Johnson regretted it as hurtful to human happiness; " For," said he, 
 "it spreads mankind, which weakens the defence of a nation, and les- 
 sens the comfort of living. Men, thinly scattered, make a shift, but a 
 had shift, without many things. A smith is ten miles off; they'll do 
 without a nail or a staple. A tailor is far from them ; they'll botch 
 their own clothes. It is being concentrated which produces high con- 
 venience." 
 
 Sir William Forbes, Mr. Scott and I accompanied Mr. Johnson 
 to the chapel founded by Lord Chief Baron Smith for the service of 
 the Church of England. The Rev. Mr. Carr, the senior clergyman, 
 preached from these words, " Because the Lord reigneth, let the earth 
 be glad." I was sorry to think Mr. Johnson did not attend to the 
 sermon, Mr. Carr's low voice not being strong enough to reach his 
 hearing. A selection of Mr. Carr's sermons has, since his death, 
 been published by Sir William Forbes, and the world has acknow- 
 ledged their uncommon merit. I am well assured Lord Mansfield 
 has pronounced them to be excellent.* 
 
 Here I obtained a promise from Lord Chief Baron Ord that he 
 would dine at my house next day. J presented Mr. Johnson to his 
 lordship, who politely said to him, " I have not the honour of know- 
 ing you, but I hope for it, and to see you at my house. I am to wait 
 on you to-morrow." This respectable English judge will be long 
 remembered in Scotland, where he built an elegant house, and lived 
 in it magnificently.f His own ample fortune, with the addition of 
 his salary, enabled him to be splendidly hospitable. It may be for- 
 tunate for an individual amongst ourselves to be Lord Chief Baron, 
 and a most worthy man now has the office ; but in my opinion it is 
 better for Scotland in general that some of our public employments 
 should be filled by gentlemen of distinction from the south side of the 
 Tweed, as we have the benefit of promotion in England. Such an 
 interchange would make a beneficial mixture of manners, and render 
 our union more complete. Lord Chief Baron Ord was on good terms 
 with us all, in a narrow country filled with jarring interests and keen 
 parties ; and though I well knew his opinion to be the same with my 
 own, he kept himself aloof at a very critical period indeed, when the 
 Douglas cause shook the sacred security of birthright in Scotland to 
 its foundation ; a cause which, had it happened before the Union, 
 when there was no appeal to a British House of Lords, would have 
 left the great fortress of honours and of property in ruins. 
 
 When we got home Dr. Johnson desired to see my books. He 
 
 * The Rev. George Carr was born at Newcastle in 1704. He was thirty-nine years 
 senior clergyman of the Episcopal Chapel at Edinburgh, and died August 18, 1776. 
 See Forbes's " Life of Beattie." ED. 
 
 i Baron Ord died at Edinburgh, February 12, 1778. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 13 
 
 took down Ogden's " Sermons on Prayer," on which 1 set a very high 
 value, having been much edified by them, and he retired with them to 
 his room. He did not stay long, but soon joined us in the drawing- 
 room. I presented to him Mr. Robert Arbuthnot, a relation of the 
 celebrated Dr. Arbuthnot, and a man of literature and taste. To him 
 we were obliged for a previous recommendation, which secured us a 
 very agreeable reception at St. Andrews, and which Dr. Johnson, in 
 his " Journey," ascribes to some invisible friend. * 
 
 Of Dr. Beattie Mr. Johnson said, " Sir, he has written like a man 
 conscious of the truth, and feeling his own strength .f Treating your 
 adversary with respect is giving him an advantage to which he is not 
 entitled. The greatest part of men cannot judge of reasoning, and 
 are impressed by character; so that if you allow your adversary a 
 respectable character, they will think that, though you differ from 
 him, you may be in the wrong. Sir, treating your adversary with 
 respect is striking soft in a battle. And as to Hume, a man who 
 has so much conceit as to tell all mankind that they have been 
 bubbled for ages, and he is the wise man who sees better than they, 
 a man who has so little scrupulosity as to venture to oppose those 
 principles which have been thought necessary to happiness, is he to 
 be surprised if another man comes and laughs at him ? If he is the 
 great man he thinks himself, all this caanot hurt him ; it is like 
 throwing peas against a rock." He added " something much too 
 rough," both as to Mr. Hume's head and heart, which I suppress. 
 Violence is, in my opinion, not suitable to the Christian cause. Be- 
 sides, I always lived on good terms with Mr. Hume, though I have 
 frankly told him I was not clear that it was right in me to keep 
 company with him. " But," said I, " how much better are you than 
 your books!" He was cheerful, obliging, and instructive; he was 
 charitable to the poor ; and many an agreeable hour have I passed 
 with him. I have preserved some entertaining and interesting memoirs 
 of him, particularly when he knew himself to be dying, which I may 
 some time or other communicate to the world.]; I shall not, however, 
 
 * Dr. Beattie, in a letter to Mrs. Montague, gives a high character of this gentle- 
 man, who had been in business at Peterhead, and was afterwards Secretary to the Board 
 of Trustees for Fisheries and Manufactures in Scotland. lie died November 5th, 1803. 
 ED. 
 
 t Seattle's " Essay on the Nature and Immutability of Truth, in Opposition to So- 
 phistry and Scepticism," had been published three years before, in May, 1770. The 
 warmth with which he attacked Hume made many friends and many enemies to the book, 
 and contributed to its success. It is now justly placed below the moral and critical dis- 
 sertations of the same author. ED. 
 
 t The communication was never made. No good Life of Hume was published until 
 1846, when a copious and able memoir, founded on family papers and other authentic 
 materials, was written by Mr. J. Hill Burton, Advocate. ED.
 
 14 
 
 JOCRNAL OF A TODR 
 
 extol him so very highly as Dr. Adam Smith does, who says, in a 
 
 letter to Mr. Strahan the printer, 
 not a confidential letter to his 
 friend, but a letter which is 
 published* with all formality : 
 " Upon the whole, I have always 
 considered him, both in his life- 
 time and since his death, as ap- 
 proaching as nearly to the idea 
 of a perfectly wise and virtuous 
 man as perhaps the nature of 
 human frailty will permit" Let 
 Dr. Smith consider; was not Mr. 
 Hume blessed with good health, 
 good spirits, good friends, a com- 
 petent and increasing fortune ? 
 And had he not also a perpetual 
 feast of fame ? But, as a learned 
 friend has observed to me, 
 " What trials did he undergo to 
 prove the perfection of his vir- 
 tue ? Did he ever experience 
 any great instance of adversity ?" 
 When I read this sentence de- 
 livered by my old instructor, 
 Professor of Moral Philosophy, 
 I could not help exclaiming with 
 the Psalmist, " Surely I have 
 now more understanding than 
 my teachers!" 
 
 While we were talking, there 
 came a note to me from Dr. 
 William Robertson. 
 
 DR. iDAX SMITH. 
 
 This letter, though shattered by the sharp shot of Dr. Home of Oxford's wit, in the 
 character of " One of the People called Christians," is still prefixed to Mr. Hume's 
 excellent " History of England," like a poor invalid on the piquet guard, or like a list of 
 quack medicines sold by the same bookseller, by whom a work of whatever nature is 
 published ; for it has no connexions with his history, let it have what it may with what 
 are called his philosophical works. A worthy friend of mine in London was lately con- 
 sulted by a lady of quality, of most distinguished merit, what was the best " History of 
 England" for her son to read. My friend recommended Hume's. But upon recol- 
 lecting that its usher was a superlative panegyric on one who endeavoured to sap 
 the credit of our holy religion, he revoked his recommendation. I am really sorry foi 
 this ostentatious alliance, because I admire " The Theory of Moral Sentiments," and 
 value the greatest part of " An Inquiry into the Nature and Causes of the Wealth of
 
 TO THE HEORIDES. 15 
 
 DEAR. SIR, I have been expecting every day to hear from yon of Df. Johnson's 
 arrival. Pray what do you know about his motions? I long to take him by the 
 hand. I write this from the college, where I have only this scrap of paper. Ever 
 yours, W. R, 
 
 Sunday. 
 
 It pleased me to find Dr. Robertson thus eager to meet Dr. John- 
 son. I was glad I could answer that he was come ; and begged Dr. 
 Robertson might be with us as soon as he could. 
 
 Sir William Forbes, Mr. Scott, Mr. Arbuthnot, and another gentle- 
 man dined with us. " Come, Dr. Johnson," said I, " it is commonly 
 thought that our veal in Scotland is not good. But here is some 
 which I believe you will like." There was no catching him. JOHN- 
 SON : " Why, sir, what is commonly thought I should take to be 
 true. Your veal may be good ; but that will only be an exception to 
 the general opinion, not a proof against it." 
 
 Dr. Robertson, according to the custom of Edinburgh at that 
 time, dined in the interval between the forenoon and afternoon ser- 
 vice, which was then later than now ; so we had not the pleasure 
 of his company till dinner was over, when he came and drank wine 
 with us. And then began some animated dialogue, of which here 
 follows a pretty full note. 
 
 We talked of Mr. Burke. Dr. Johnson said he had great variety 
 of knowledge, store of imagery, copiousness of language. ROBERT- 
 SON : " He has wit too." JOHNSON : " No, sir , he never succeeds 
 there. 'Tis low ; 'tis conceit. I used to say Burke never once made 
 a good joke.* What I most envy Burke for is his being constantly 
 
 Nations." Why should such a writer be so forgetful of human comfort as to give any 
 countenance to that dreary infidelity which would "make us poor indeed?" BOSWELL. 
 
 [This is the boldest sally of Boswell against any eminent living individual that 
 individual, too, a Scotsman in high society, and a member of the Literary Club. He 
 must have been mortified, however, to find that the very next year after the publication 
 of his third edition, namely in 1787, Adam Smith was elected Lord Rector of the Uni- 
 versity of Glasgow. He died July 17th, 1790, aged sixty-seven. The appearance and 
 habits of the retired philosopher, his grave look and somewhat formal, precise manner, 
 ludicrously varied at times by his habitual absence of mind, are well known, and have 
 been vividly depicted by Scott. Mr. Rogers the poet remembers having met Adam Smith, 
 and still retains one of his visiting cards, from which it appears that the great poli- 
 tical economist, like Johnson, continued to use the plain prefix of " Mr." after he had 
 received the honorary degree of Doctor. ED.] 
 
 This was one of the points upon which Dr. Johnson was strangely heterodox. 
 For surely Mr. Burke, with his other remarkable qualities, is also distinguished for his 
 wit, and for wit of all kinds too ; not merely that power of language which Pope chooses 
 to denominate wit 
 
 " True wit is Nature to advantage dressed ; 
 
 What oft was thought, but ne'er so w ell expressed" 
 
 but surprising allusions, brilliant sallies of vivacity, and pleasant conceits. His speeches 
 in Parliament are strewsd with them. Take, for instance, the variety which he has 
 given in his wide range yet exact detail when exhibiting his Reform Bill. And his con-
 
 ]5 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 the same. He is never what we call humdrum ; never unwilling to 
 begin to talk, nor in haste to leave off." BOSWELL : " Yet he can lis- 
 ten." JOHNSON : " No, I cannot say he is good at that. So desirous 
 is he to talk, that if one is speaking at this end of the table, he'll 
 speak to somebody at the other end. Burke, sir, is such a man, that 
 if you met him for the first time in the street where you were stopped 
 by a drove of oxen, and you and he stepped aside to take shelter but 
 for five minutes, he'd talk to you in such a manner that when you 
 parted you would say, This is an extraordinary man. Now, you may 
 be long enough with me without finding anything extraordinary." 
 He said he believed Burko was intended for the law ; but either had 
 not money enough to^follow it, or had not diligence enough. He 
 said he could not understand how a man could apply to one thing 
 and not to another. Robertson said one man had more judgment, 
 another more imagination. JOHNSON: " No, sir; it is only one man 
 has more mind than another. He may direct it differently; he may, 
 by accident, see the success of one kind of study, and take a desire to 
 excel in it. I am persuaded that had Sir Isaac Newton applied to 
 
 seen at a 
 
 I had found out a perfect definition of human nature, as distinguished from the animal. 
 An ancient philosopher said man was " a two-legged animal without feathers ;" upon 
 which his rival sage had a cock plucked bare, and set him down in the school before all 
 the disciples as a "philosophic man." Dr. Franklin said man was "a tool-making 
 animal," which is very well, for no animal but man makes a thing by means of which he 
 can make another thing. But this applies to very few of the species. My definition of 
 man is "a cooking animal." The beasts have memory, judgment, and all the faculties 
 and passions of our mind in a certain degree; but no beast is a cook. The trick of the 
 monkey using the cat's paw to roast a chesnut is only a piece of shrewd malice in that 
 turpissima bestia which humbles us so sadly by its similarity to us. Man alone can 
 dress a good dish; and every man whatever is more or less a cook, in seasoning what 
 he himself eats. " Your definition is good," said Mr. Burke ; " and I now see the full 
 force of the common proverb, ' There is reason in roasting of eggs.'" "When Mr. Wilkes, 
 in his days of tumultuous opposition, was borne upon the shoulders of the mob, Mr. 
 Burke (as Mr. Wilkes told me himself with classical admiration) applied to him what 
 Horace says of Pindar 
 
 " wwmmque fertur 
 
 Lege solutis." 
 
 Sir Joshua Beynolds, who agrees with me entirely as to Mr. Burke's fertility of wit, 
 said that this was " dignifying a pun." He also observed that he has often heard Burke 
 say, in the course of an evening, ten good things, each of which would have served 
 a noted wit (whom he named) to live upon for a twelvemonth. 
 
 I find, since the former edition, that some persons have objected to the instances 
 which I have given of Mr. Burke's wit, as not doing justice to my very ingenious friend; 
 the specimens produced having, it is alleged, more of conceit than real wit, and being 
 merely sportive sallies of the moment, not justifying the encomium which they thin k with 
 me he undoubtedly merits. I was well aware how hazardous it was to exhibit particular 
 instances of wit, which is of so airy and spiritual a nature as often to elude the hand 
 that attempts to grasp it. The excellence and efficacy of a Ion mot depend frequently
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. IT 
 
 poetry, he would have made a very fine epic poem. I could as easily 
 apply to law as to tragic poetry." BOSWELL: " Yet, sir, you did apply 
 to tragic poetry, riot to law." JOHNSON : " Because, sir, I had not 
 money to study law. Sir, the man who has vigour may walk to the- 
 east just as well as to the west, if he happens to turn his head 
 that way." BOSWELL : " But, sir, 'tis like walking up and down a 
 hill ; one man will naturally do the one better than the other. A 
 hare will run up a hill best, from her fore legs being short ; a dog 
 down." JOHNSON : " Nay, sir, that is from mechanical powers. If 
 you make mind mechanical, you may argue in that manner. One 
 mind is a vice, and holds fast ; there's a good memory. Another is a 
 file, and he is a disputant, a controversialist. Another is a razor, 
 and he is sarcastical." We talked of Whitefield. He said he was at 
 the same college with him, and knew him before he began to be better 
 than other people [smiling] ; that he believed he sincerely meant well, 
 but had a mixture' of politics and ostentation ; whereas Wesley thought 
 
 so much on the occasion on which it is spoken, on the particular manner of the speaker, 
 on the person to whom it is applied, the previous introduction, and a thousand minute 
 particulars which cannot be easily enumerated, that it is always dangerous to detach a 
 witty saying from the group to which it belongs, and to set it before the eye of the spec- 
 tator, divested of those concomitant circumstances which gave it animation, mellow- 
 ness and relief. I ventured, however, at all hazards, to put down the first instances that 
 occurred to me, as proofs of Mr. Burke's lively and brilliant fancy ; but am very sensi- 
 ble that his numerous friends could have suggested many of a superior quality. Indeed, 
 the being in company with him for a single day is sufficient to show that what I have 
 asserted is- well-founded ; and it was only necessary to have appealed to all who know him 
 intimately for a complete refutation of the heterodox opinion entertained by Dr. John- 
 son on this subject. He allowed Mr. Burke, as- the reader will find hereafter, to be a man 
 of consummate and unrivalled abilities in every light except that now under considera- 
 tion ; and the variety of his allusions and splendour of his imagery have made such 
 an impression on all the rest of the world, that superficial observers are apt to overlook 
 his other merits, and to suppose that wit is his chief and most prominent excellence,, 
 when in fact it is only one of the many talents that he possesses, which are so various 
 and extraordinary that it is very difficult to ascertain precisely the rank and value of 
 each. BOSWELL. 
 
 [The additional note on Burke, beginning with "I find since the former edition," 
 was contributed by Malone to the second edition of BoswelFs Journal. Malone super- 
 intended the work through the press while the author was in Scotland, and took that 
 occasion to buttress up his friend's argument. See "Life of Johnson," under date April 
 25th, 1778. It is surprising that Malone did not, in justification of his opinion of 
 Burke, cite the orator's celebrated description of Lord Chatham's Administration that 
 memorable piece of cabinet_/oinery, " so crossly indented and whimsically dove-tailed." 
 Still more witty, perhaps, was Burke's allusion to Pitt and the commercial treaty with 
 France, in which he said that Pitt contemplated the treaty as an affair of two little 
 counting-houses, and not of two great nations as " a contention between the sign of 
 the Fleur-de-lis and the sign of the Old lied Lion for which should obtain the best 
 custom." This speech, however, was not delivered till 1787. The letter to a noble lord 
 in defence of his pension is a still later production, but abounds in witty and brilliant 
 passages. Burke was too copious, eloquent, and discursive too rich in imagination, and 
 too ardent and impetuous in feeling, to study pointed or witty sentences. In repartee 
 he was, like all his other contemporaries, greatly inferior to Johnson. ED.] 
 
 C
 
 18 JOUBNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 of religion only.* Robertson said Whitefield had strong natural elo- 
 quence, which, if cultivated, would have done great things. JOHN- 
 SON : " Why, sir, I take it he was at the height of what his abilities 
 could do, and was sensible of it. He had the ordinary advantages of 
 education ; but he chose to pursue that oratory which is for the mob." 
 BOSWELL: "He had great effect on the passions." JOHNSON: 
 " Why, sir, I don't think so. He could not represent a succession of 
 pathetic images. He vociferated and made an impression. There, 
 again, was a mind like a hammer." Dr. Johnson now said a certain 
 eminent political friend of ours was wrong in his maxim of sticking 
 to a certain set of men on all occasions. " I can see that a man may 
 do right to stick to a party," said he, " that is to say, he is a Whig or 
 he is a Toiy, and he thinks one of those parties upon the whole the 
 best, and that to make it prevail it must be generally supported, 
 though in particulars it may be wrong. He takes its faggot of prin- 
 ciples, in which there are fewer rotten sticks than in the other, though 
 some rotten sticks to be sure ; and they cannot well be separated. 
 But to bind one's self to one man, or one set of men (who may be 
 right to-day and wrong to-morrow), without any general preference 
 of system, I must disapprove."! 
 
 * That cannot be said now, after the flagrant part which Mr. John Wesley took 
 against our American brethren, when, in his own name, he threw among his enthusiastic 
 flock the very individual combustibles of Dr. Johnson's " Taxation no Tyranny ;" and 
 after the intolerant spirit which he manifested against our fellow-Christians of the 
 Roman Catholic communion, for which that able champion, Father O'Leary, has given 
 him so hearty a drubbing. But I should think myself very unworthy if I did not at 
 the same time acknowledge Mr. John Wesley's merit, as a veteran " soldier of Jesus 
 Christ," who has, I do believe, turned many from darkness into light, and from the 
 power of Satan to the living God. BOSWELL. 
 
 [Wesley lived till after the publication of this note. He died March 2nd, 1791, 
 aged eighty-eight. Johnson's depreciating criticism of Whitefield must be attributed 
 to prejudice or caprice. It required no small oratorical talent and pathetic eloquence 
 to draw tears down the cheeks of thousands of the Bristol colliers, and to move with 
 delight and enthusiasm men like Chesterfield, Bolingbroke.'Hume and Franklin. White- 
 field said he would rather wear out than rust out; and his extraordinary exertions cut 
 him off, Sept. 29th, 1770, in his fifty-sixth year. ED.] 
 
 + If due attention were paid to this observation, there would be more virtue, even 
 in politics. What Dr. Johnson justly condemned has, I am sorry to say, grtatly in- 
 creased in the present reign. At the distance of four years from this conversation, 
 21st February, 1777, my Lord Archbishop of York, in his " Sermon before the Society 
 for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts," thus indignantly describes the then 
 state of parties : 
 
 ' Parties once had a principle belonging to them, absurd perhaps, and indefensible, 
 but still carrying a notion of duty, by which honest minds might easily be caught. . . . 
 But there are now combinations of individuals, who, instead of being the sons 
 and servants of the community, make a league for advancing their private interests. It 
 is their business to hold high the notion of political honour. I believe and trust it is not 
 injurious to say, that such a bond is no better than that by which the lowest and 
 wickedest combinations are held together; and that it denotes the last stage of political 
 depravity."
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 19 
 
 He told us of Cooke, who translated Hesiod, and lived twenty years 
 on a translation of Plautus, for which he was always taking subscrip- 
 tions ; and that he presented Foote to a club, in the following singular 
 manner: " This is the nephew of the gentleman who was lately hung 
 in chains for murdering his brother."* 
 
 In the evening I introduced to Mr. Johnson f two good friends of 
 mine, Mr. William Nairne, advocate, and Mr. Hamilton, of Sundrum, 
 my neighbour in the country, both of whom supped with us. I have 
 preserved nothing of what passed, except that Dr. Johnson displayed 
 another of his heterodox opinions, a contempt of tragic acting. He 
 said " the action of all players in tragedy is bad. It should be a 
 man's study to repress those signs of emotion and passion, as they 
 are called." He was of a directly contrary opinion to that of Fielding, 
 in his " Tom Jones," who makes Partridge say of Garrick, " Why, 
 I could act as well as he myself. I am sure if I had seen a ghost 
 I should have looked in the very same manner, and done just as he 
 did." For, when I asked him, " Would not you, sir, start as Mr. 
 Garrick does if you saw a ghost?" he answered, "I hope not. If I 
 did I should frighten the ghost." 
 
 MONDAY, AUGUST 16. 
 
 Dr. William Robertson came to breakfast. We talked of " Ogden 
 
 To find a thought, which just showed itself to us from the mind of Johnson, thus ap- 
 pearing again at such a distance of time, and without any communication between them, 
 enlarged to full growth in the mind of Markham, is a curious object of philosophical 
 contemplation. That two such great and luminous minds should have been so dark in 
 one corner, that they should have held it to be " wicked rebellion in the British subjects 
 established in America, to resist the abject condition of holding all their property at 
 the mercy of Britisli subjects remaining at home, while their allegiance to our common 
 Lord the King was to be preserved inviolate," is a striking proof to me, either that " He 
 who sitteth in heaven" scorns the loftiness of hnman pride, or that the Evil Spirit, 
 whose personal existence I strongly believe, and even in this age am confirmed in that 
 belief by a Fell, nay, by a Hurd, has more power than some choose to allow. BOSWBLL. 
 
 Samuel Goodier, Esq., Commander of the " Ruby" man of war. While his vessel 
 lay at anchor off Bristol in January 1741, Captain Goodier, with the assistance of two 
 ruffians, carried off his brother, Sir John Dinely Goodier, Bart., and murdered him on 
 board ship. They put the unfortunate baronet into the purser's cabin in the " lluby," 
 when the captain stood sentry on the door with a cutlass, while his accomplices strangled 
 him with a cord. The captain remained on board with the dead body till he was ap- 
 prehended. The whole affair looks like insanity ; but Captain Goodier and the two men 
 were tried and hanged at Bristol. Cooke, who translated Hesiod, wrote a Life of Foote. 
 He was a careless-, dissipated litterateur, and died in distressed eircttmstances in 1756. 
 Bo. 
 
 \ It may be observed 1 that I sometimes eaH my great friend Mr. Johnson, some- 
 times Dr. Johnson ; thoagh he had at this time a doctor's degree from Trinity College, 
 Dublin. The University of Oxford afterwards conferred it upon him by a diploma, in very 
 honourable terms. It was some time before I could bring myself to call him Doctor but, 
 as he has been long known by that title, I shall give it to him in the rest of this Journal 
 
 BOSWELL.
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 on Prayer." Dr. Johnson said, " The same arguments which are used 
 against God's hearing prayer will serve against his rewarding good 
 and punishing evil. He has resolved, he has declared, in the former 
 case as in the latter." He had last night looked into Lord Hailes's 
 " Bemarks on the History of Scotland." Dr. Robertson and I said 
 it was a pity Lord Hailes did not write greater things. His lordship 
 had not then published his " Annals of Scotland."* JOHNSON : " I 
 remember I was once on a visit at the house of a lady for whom I 
 had a high respect. There was a good deal of company in the room. 
 "When they were gone I said to this lady, ' What foolish talking have 
 we had !' ' Yes,' said she, 'but while they talked, you said nothing.' 
 I was struck with the reproof. How much better is the man who 
 does anything that is innocent than he who does nothing ! Besides, 
 I love anecdotes. I fancy mankind may come, in time, to write all 
 aphoristically, except in narrative ; grow weary of preparation, and 
 connexion, and illustration, and all those arts by which a big book is 
 made. If a man is to wait till he weaves anecdotes into a system we 
 may be long in getting them, and get but few in comparison of what 
 we might get." 
 
 Dr. Robertson said the notions of Eupham Macallan, a fanatic 
 woman, of whom Lord Hailes gives a sketch, were still prevalent 
 among some of the Presbyterians , and therefoi'e it was right in Lord 
 Hailes, a man of known piety, to undeceive them.f 
 
 * Lord Hailes was a very voluminous writer, collector and annotator. His various 
 publications, legal, historical, theological and antiquarian, were fifty or sixty in number, 
 and range over a long period, from 1751 to 1790. Some of his professional treatises are 
 esteemed highly valuable; but the best known of his works are his reply to Gibbon, and 
 his " Annals of Scotland." The former has been in a great measure superseded by the 
 more vigorous and popular "Apology" of Dr. Watson, Bishop of Llandaff; but the 
 "Annals" entitle Lord Hailes to be regarded as the father of authentic Scottish history. 
 "He wrought upon his historical collections," Scott finely remarks, " like Ulysses upon 
 his bark in the island of Calypso, to leave land upon his lonely voyage unanimated by 
 any plaudits, and not expecting any when he should return ; the whole object of his en- 
 terprise a search after truth, his only reward the mental satisfaction of having dis- 
 covered it." The learned lord is said to have occasionally exhibited, both at the bar and 
 on the bench, an undue attention to minutiae ; and Boswell's veneration for the judge did 
 not prevent his glancing satirically at this failing. In the "Court of Session Garland," 
 a rhyming sketch of the Scottish bench about the year 1771, of which Boswell obtains 
 the credit, this couplet appears : 
 
 "'This cause," cries Hailes, 'to judge I can't pretend, 
 
 Tor justice, I perceive, wants an e at the end.' " 
 
 There was a Parliament-house joke that Lord Hailes had on one occasion seriously 
 objected to a law-paper in which the word justice hadjbeen thus mis-spelt. In the compo- 
 sition of the " Garland" Boswell is said t have been assisted by Mr. Maclaurin; to use 
 a Johnsonian phrase, there is a combination in it of which Boswell alone was hardly 
 capable. ED. 
 
 t We have not been able to find any mention of this case in the lists of tracts by 
 Lord Hailes, in the " Scots Magazine," or in the catalogue of the Abbotsford library.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 We walked out that Dr. Johnson might see some of the things 
 which we have to show at Edinburgh. We went to the Parliament- 
 house, where the Parliament of Scotland sat, and where the ordinary 
 
 PARLIAMENT IIO1M:, 1.1, IM 
 
 Lords of Session hold their courts ; and to the New Session-house ad- 
 joining to it, where our Court of Fifteen (the fourteen Ordinaries, 
 with the Lord President at their head) sit as a Court of Review. 
 We went to the Advocates' Library, of which Dr. Johnson took a 
 cursory view, and then to what is called the Laigh, or under Parlia- 
 ment-house, where the records of Scotland, which have a universal 
 security by register, are deposited till the great Register Office be 
 finished. I was pleased to behold Dr. Samuel Johnson rolling about 
 in this old magazine of antiquities. There was by this time a pretty 
 numerous circle of us attending upon him. Somebody talked of 
 happy moments for composition ; and how a man can write at one 
 time and not at another. " Nay," said Dr. Johnson, " a man may 
 write at any time, if he will set himself doggedly* to it." 
 
 There is a Eupham Macallan, or Macalzean, well known in Scotch history, who was 
 burned as a witch in 1591. She was a daughter of one of the judges, Lord Cliftonhall. 
 Her case is recorded in Arnot's and Pitcairn's "Criminal Trials." The person referred 
 to may be Mrs. Mitchelson, a woman who prophesied to the Covenanters in 1638, and 
 drew immense crowds to hear her ravings, which even clergymen believed to be of divine 
 origin. Boswell, we suspect, had confounded the reputed witch, whose name is un- 
 common, with the covenanting prophetess. ED. 
 
 * This word is commonly used to signify sullenly, gloomily; and in that sense alone
 
 22 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 I here began to indulge old Scottish sentiments, and to express a 
 warm regret that by our union with England we were no more our 
 independent kingdom was lost. JOHNSON : " Sir, never talk of your 
 independency, who could let your queen remain twenty years in cap- 
 tivity, and then be put to death, without even a pretence of justice, 
 without your ever attempting to rescue her ; and such a queen, too, 
 as every man of any gallantry of spirit would have sacrificed his 
 life for." Worthy Mr. JAMES KERR, Keeper of the Records : "Half 
 
 THE OLD TOWK, ZBINBCKOH. T. GILES'S CHTTKCH 
 
 our nation was bribed by English money." JOHNSON : " Sir, that is 
 no defence ; that makes you worse." Good Mr. BROWN, Keeper of 
 the Advocates' Library: "We had better say nothing about it." 
 BOSWELL : " You would have been glad, however, to have had us 
 last war, sir, to fight your battles." JOHNSON : " We should have 
 had you for the same price though there had been no Union, as we 
 
 it appears in Dr. Johnson's Dictionary. I suppose he meant by it, " with an obstinate 
 resolution, similar to that of a sullen man." BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 might have had Swiss or other troops. No, no, I shall agree to a sepa- 
 ration. You have only to go home." Just as he had said this, 1, to 
 divert the subject, showed him the signed assurances of the three 
 successive kings of the Hanover family to maintain the Presbyte- 
 rian establishment in Scotland. " We'll give you that," said he, 
 " into the bargain." 
 
 We next went to the great church of St. Giles, which has lost its 
 original magnificence in the inside, by being divided into four places 
 of Presbyterian worship. " Come," said Dr. Johnson jocularly to 
 Principal Kobertson,* "let me 
 see what was once a church !" 
 We entered that division which 
 was formerly called the "New 
 Church," and of late the " High 
 Church," so well known by the 
 eloquence of Dr. Hugh Blair. 
 It is now very elegantly fitted 
 up, but it was then shamefully 
 dirty. Dr. Johnson said no- 
 thing at the time, but when we 
 came to the great door of the 
 Royal Infirmary, where upon a 
 board was this inscription, 
 
 " Clean your feet!" he turned 
 
 about slyly and said, " There is 
 
 no occasion for putting this at 
 
 the doors of your churches." 
 We then conducted him down 
 
 the Post-house stairs, Parlia- 
 ment-close, and made him look 
 
 up from the Cow-gate to the 
 
 highest building in Edinburgh 
 
 (from which he had just de- 
 scended), being thirteen floors 
 
 or storeys from the ground upon 
 
 the back elevation ; the front 
 
 wall being built upon the edge 
 
 of the hill, and the back wall 
 
 OH. WILLIAM ROBERTSON 
 
 * I have hitherto called him Dr. William Robertson, to distinguish him from Dr. 
 James Robertson, who is soon to make his appearance. But Principal, from his beinp 
 the head of our college, is his usual designation, and is shorter ; so I shall use it here- 
 after. Bos WELL. 
 
 [It is unnecessary to repeat the incidents of a life so uniform and so well known as
 
 DR. ADAM FCRC 
 
 24 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 rising from the bottom of the hill several storeys before it comes to a 
 level with the front wall. We proceeded to the College, with the Prin- 
 cipal at our head. Dr. Adam Fer- 
 gusson, whose "Essay on the His- 
 tory of Civil Society" gives him a 
 respectable place in the ranks of 
 literature, was with us.* As the 
 College buildings are indeed very 
 mean, the Principal said to Dr. 
 Johnson, that he must .give them 
 the same epithet that a Jesuit did 
 when showing a poor college 
 abroad : " Use miseriae nostra?." 
 Dr. Johnson was, however, much 
 pleased with the library, and witli 
 the conversation of Dr. James Ro- 
 bertson, professor of oriental lan- 
 guages, the librarian. We talked 
 of Kennicofs edition of the Hebrew Bible, and hoped it would be 
 quite faithful. JOHNSON : " Sir, I know not any crime so great that 
 a man could contrive to commit, as poisoning the sources of eternal 
 truth." 
 
 I pointed out to him where there formerly stood an old wall in- 
 closing part of the college, which I remember bulged out in a 
 threatening manner, and of which there was a common tradition 
 similar to that concerning Bacon's study at Oxford, that it would 
 fall upon some very learned man. It had some time before this 
 been taken down, that the street might be widened, and a more con- 
 venient wall built. Dr. Johnson, glad of an opportunity to have a 
 pleasant hit at Scottish learning, said, " They were afraid it never 
 would fall." 
 
 We showed him the Royal Infirmary, for which, and for every 
 other exertion of generous public spirit in his power, that noble- 
 minded citizen of Edinburgh, George Drumrnond, will be ever held 
 
 that of Kobcrtson. He retained his honours to the age of seventy-one, dying, June 
 llth, 1793. His friend Dr. Blair attained to the age of eighty-three, and died, December 
 27th, 1800. ED.] 
 
 * Dr. Adam Fergusson outlived all the members of that brilliant circle of Scottish 
 literati with whom he was connected. " He recovered," says Scott, " from a decided 
 shock of paralysis in the sixtieth year of his life ; from which period he became a strict 
 Pythagorean in his diet, eating nothing but vegetables, and diinking only water or 
 milk. He survived till the year 1816, when he died in full possession of his mental facul- 
 ties at the advanced age of ninety-three." ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 25 
 
 in honourable remembrance.* And we were too proud not to carry 
 him to the Abbey of Holyrood-house, that beautiful piece of archi- 
 tecture, but, alas ! that deserted mansion of royalty, which Hamil- 
 ton of Bangour, in one of his elegant poems, calls 
 
 " A virtuous palace, where no monarch dwells." 
 
 I was much entertained while Principal Robertson fluently 
 harangued to Dr. Johnson upon the spot, concerning the scenes of his 
 celebrated " History of Scotland." We surveyed that part of the 
 palace appropriated to the Duke of Hamilton, as keeper, in which 
 
 HOLYROOD-HOUSE. 
 
 our beautiful Queen Mary lived, and in which David Eizzio was 
 murdered, and also the state rooms. Dr. Johnson was a great reciter 
 of all sorts of things, serious or comical. I overheard him repeating 
 here, in a kind of muttering tone, a line of the old ballad, " Johnny 
 Armstrong's Last Good Night :" 
 
 " And ran him through the fair body."f 
 We returned to my house, where there met him at dinner the 
 
 He was seven times elected Provost of Edinburgh, and died in 1766. A bust of Mr. 
 Diummond by Nollekens was placed in the entrance hall of the Infirmary. ED. 
 
 t The stanza from which he took this line is, 
 
 " But then rose up all Edinburgh, 
 
 They rose up by thousands three ; 
 A cowardly Scot came John behind, 
 
 And ran him through the fair body!" BOSWKLI..
 
 26 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Duchess of Douglas, Sir Adolphus Oughton, Lord Chief Baron, Sir 
 William Forbes, Principal Robertson, Mr. Cullen, advocate. Before 
 dinner he? told us of a curious conversation between the famous 
 George Faulkner and him. George said that England had drained 
 Ireland of fifty thousand pounds in specie annually for fifty years. 
 "How so, sir?" said Dr. Johnson; "you must have a very great 
 trade?" "No trade." "Very rich mines?" "No mines." "From 
 whence, then, does all this money come?" "Come! why out of the 
 blood and bowels of the poor people of Ireland !" 
 
 He seemed to me to have an unaccountable prejudice against 
 Swift ; for I once took the liberty to ask him if Swift had personally 
 offended him, and he told me he had not. He said to-day, " Swift is 
 clear, but he is shallow. In coarse humour he is inferior to Arbuthnot ; 
 in delicate humour he is inferior to Addison ; so he is inferior to his 
 contemporaries, without putting him against the whole world. I 
 doubt if the ' Tale of a Tub' was his, it has so much more thinking, 
 more knowledge, more power, more colour than any of the works which 
 are indisputably his. If it was his, I shall only say, he was impar 
 sibi."* 
 
 We gave him as good a dinner as we could. Our Scotch muir-fowl 
 or grouse were then abundant, and quite in season ; and so far as 
 wisdom and wit can be aided by administering agreeable sensations 
 to the palate, my wife took care that our great guest should not be de- 
 ficient. 
 
 Sir Adolphus Oughton, then our deputy commander-in-chief, who 
 was not only an excellent officer, hut one of the most universal 
 scholars I ever knew, had learned the Erse language, and expressed 
 his belief in the authenticity of Ossian's poetry .f Dr. Johnson took 
 the opposite side of that perplexed question, and I was afraid the dis- 
 pute would have run high between them. But Sir Adolphus, who had 
 a very sweet temper, changed the discourse, grew playful, laughed at 
 Lord Monboddo's notion of men having tails, and called him a judge 
 d posteriori, which amused Dr. Johnson, and thus hostilities were 
 prevented. 
 
 At supper we had Dr. Cullen, his son the advocate, Dr. Adam 
 
 * To combat this prejudice would now be a work of supererogation. "Who but 
 Swift could have written the " Tale of a Tub 3" Had the authorship been really uncer- 
 tain, Swift would have been a bishop. ED. 
 
 t He had even translated some of the Ossianic fragments. Sir Adolphus appears to 
 have been a highly-accomplished and amiable man. He made the tour of Italy, and 
 amidst all his campaigns cultivated a .taste for literature and the fine arts. He served 
 under the Duke of Cumberland in Flanders and in Scotland, and commanded one of the 
 six British regiments at the battle of Minden. He died at Bath, April 14th, 1780, aged 
 sixty. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 27 
 
 Fergusson, and Mr. Crosbie, advocate.* Witchcraft was introduced. 
 Mr. Crosbie said he thought it 
 the greatest blasphemy to sup- 
 pose evil spirits counteracting 
 the Deity, and raising storms, 
 for instance, to destroy his crea- 
 tures. JOHNSON: "Why, sir, if 
 moral evil be consistent with 
 the government of the Deity, 
 why may not physical evil be 
 also consistent with it? Is it 
 not more strange that there 
 should be evil spirits than evil 
 men, evil unembodied spirits 
 than evil embodied spirits? And 
 as to storms, we know there are 
 such things ; and it is no worse 
 that evil spirits raise them than 
 that they rise." CROSBTE : "But 
 it is not credible that witches D1U CUL "*- 
 
 should have effected what they are said in stories to have done." 
 JOHNSON : " Sir, I am not defending their credibility ; I am only saying 
 that your arguments are not good, and will not overturn the belief 
 of witchcraft. [Dr. Fergusson said to me aside, " He is right."] And 
 then, sir, you have all mankind, rude and civilised, agreeing in the 
 belief of the agency of preternatural powers. You must take evidence, 
 you must consider that wise and great men have condemned witches 
 to die." CROSBIE : " But an Act of Parliament put an end to witch- 
 craft." JOHNSON : " No, sir, witchcraft had ceased ; and therefore an 
 Act of Parliament was passed to prevent persecution for what was not 
 witchcraft. Why it ceased we cannot tell, as we cannot tell the reason 
 of many other things." Dr. Culleu, to keep up the gratification of 
 mysterious disquisition, with the grave address for which he is re- 
 markable in his companionable as in his professional hours, talked in 
 
 * Andrew Crosbie, Esq., Vice-Dean of the Faculty of Advocates. This gentleman 
 is believed to have been the original of Pleydell, the lawyer, in "Guy Mannering." 
 He was equally distinguished for his eloquence and his conviviality. Dugald Stewart, 
 in his Life of Robertson, speaks of "the copious and fervid declamation of Crosbie." He 
 was celebrated in the Church courts. His practice was extensive and his society much 
 courted, but habits of extravagance involved him in pecuniary difficulties, and his in- 
 temperance became more reckless and confirmed. He died February 2oth, 1785, aged 
 forty-nine. It is said that so completely had the habits of the once-popular pleader 
 alienated his friends and sunk him in society, that only a few hired attendants could 
 be had to follow his remains to the grave! Dr. Cullen the eminent physician died in 
 1790, aged eighty. His son became a judge under the title of Lord Cullen. ED.
 
 38 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 a very entertaining manner of people walking and conversing in their 
 sleep. I am very sorry I have no note of this. We talked of the 
 ouran-outang, and of Lord Monboddo's thinking he might be taught 
 to speak. Dr. Johnson treated this with ridicule. Mr. Crosbie said 
 that Lord Monboddo believed the existence of every thing possible ; in 
 short, that all that is in posse might be found in esse. JOHNSON : 
 " But, sir, it is as possible that the ouran-outang does not speak, as 
 that he speaks. However, I shall not contest the point. I should have 
 thought it not possible to find a Monboddo ; yet he exists." I again 
 mentioned the stage. JOHNSON : " The appearance of a player, with 
 whom I have drunk tea, counteracts the imagination that he is the 
 character he represents. Nay, you know, nobody imagines that he 
 is the character he represents. They say, ' See Garrick ! how he 
 looks to-night ! See how he'll clutch the dagger !' That is the buzz 
 of the theatre." 
 
 TUESDAY, AUGUST 17. 
 
 Sir William Forbes came to breakfast, and brought with him 
 Dr. Blacklock, whom he introduced to Dr. Johnson, who received 
 him with a most humane complacency : " Dear Dr. Blacklock, I am 
 glad to see you !" Blacklock seemed to be much surprised when Dr. 
 Johnson said it was easier to him to write poetry than to compose 
 his Dictionary. His mind was less on the stretch in doing the one 
 than the other. Besides, composing a Dictionary requires books and 
 a desk ; you can make a poem walking in the fields, or lying in bed. 
 Dr. Blacklock spoke of scepticism in morals and religion witli ap- 
 parent uneasiness, as if he wished for more certainty.* Dr. John- 
 
 * See his letter on this subject in the Appendix. Bos WELL. 
 
 [A Life of BlacklocK was written by Henry Mackenzie, the "Man of Feeling," and pre- 
 fixed to an edition of the works of the blind poet published in 1793. It is also included in 
 Mackenzie's Works, Edinburgh 1808. Blacklock was born in 1721 at Annan, county of 
 Dumfries, and lost his eyesight by the small-pox before he was six months old. He 
 early evinced a taste for literature, and by the assistance of Dr. Stevenson, a physician 
 of Edinburgh, he received a classical education at the university of that city. Editions 
 of his poems were printed in 1746, 1754, and 1756. To the latest of these Spence, the 
 friend of Pope, contributed a Life. David Hume, Dr. Blair, and the other literati of Edin- 
 burgh, interested themselves in the fortunes of Blacklock, and his life was spent in 
 comparative comfort and tranquillity. " It was a sight highly gratifying to philan- 
 thropy," sayg Henry Mackenzie, "to see how much a mind endowed with knowledge, 
 kindled by genius, and above all, lighted up with innocence and piety, like Blacklock's, 
 could overcome the weight of its own calamity, and enjoy the content, the happiness, 
 and the gaiety of others." Blacklock had the honour of being the poetical preceptor 
 of Sir Walter Scott. " The kind old man," says Scott, " opened to me the stores of his 
 library, and through his recommendation I became intimate with Ossian and Spenser." 
 Blacklock died at Edinburgh, July 7th, 1791. His poetry is now forgotten. It possesse g 
 some fancy, tenderness, and elegance; but his descriptions being drawn from reading 
 and memory, want originality and force. He was compelled to look at nature "through 
 the spectacles of books," as Dryden expresses it. ED.]
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 soft, who had thought it all over, and whose vigorous understanding 
 was fortified by much experience, thus encouraged the blind bard to 
 apply to higher speculations what we all willingly submit to in common 
 life : in short he gave him more familiarly the able and fair reason- 
 ing of Butler's " Analogy:" " Why, sir, the greatest concern we have 
 in this world, the choice of our profession, must be determined with- 
 out demonstrative reasoning. Human life is not yet so well known, 
 as thai we can have it. And take the case of a man who is ill. I 
 call two physicians; they differ in opinion. I am not to lie down 
 and die between them ; I must do something." The conversation then 
 turned on atheism, on that horrible book, " Systeme de la Nature," 
 and on the supposition of an eternal necessity without design, with- 
 out a governing mind. JOHNSON : " If it were so, why has it ceased ? 
 Why don't we see men thus produced around us now ? Why, at least, 
 does it not keep pace, in some measure, with the progress of time ? 
 If it stops because there is now no need of it, then it is plain there is, 
 and ever has been, an all-powerful intelligence. But stay," said he, with 
 one of his satiric laughs, " ha ! ha ! ha ! I shall suppose Scotchmen 
 made necessarily, and Englishmen by choice." 
 
 At dinner this day we had Sir Alexander Dick, whose amiable 
 character and ingenious^and cultivated mind are so generally known; 
 he was then on the verge of seventy, and is now (1785) eighty-one, 
 with his faculties entire, his heart warm, and his temper gay; Sir 
 David Dalrymple, Lord Hailes, 
 Mr. Maclaurin, advocate ; Dr. 
 Gregory, who now worthily fills 
 his father's medical chair ; and 
 my uncle, Dr. Boswell.* This 
 was one of Dr. Johnson's best 
 days. He was quite in his ele- 
 ment. All was literature and 
 taste, without any interruption. 
 Lord Hailes, who was one of 
 the best philologists in Great 
 Britain, who has written papers 
 in the ' World," and a variety 
 of other works in prose and in 
 verse, both Latin and English, 
 pleased him highly. He told 
 him he had discovered the life 
 
 T-OIID HAII.ES. 
 
 * Sir A. Dick of Prestonfield, Bart , had practised medicine and was at one time Pre- 
 sident of the College of Physicians. On succeeding to the family estate and baronetcy 
 he discontinued his profession, but laboured with disinterested zeal to advance medical
 
 30 JOCRNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 of Cheynel, in the " Student," to be his. JOHNSON : " No one else 
 knows it." Dr. Johnson had before this dictated to me a law-paper 
 upon a question purely in the law of Scotland, concerning vicious 
 intromission, that is to say, intermeddling with the effects of a deceased 
 person without a regular title, which formerly was understood to sub- 
 ject the intermeddler to payment of all the defunct's debts. The 
 principle has of late been relaxed. Dr. Johnson's argument was for 
 a renewal of its strictness. The paper was printed, with additions by 
 me, and given in to the Court of Session. Lord Hailes knew Dr. 
 Johnson's part not to be mine, and pointed out exactly where it began 
 and where it ended. Dr. Johnson said, " It is much, now, that his 
 lordship can distinguish so." 
 
 In Dr. Johnson's " Vanity of Human Wishes" there is the fol- 
 lowing passage : 
 
 " The teeming mother, anxious for her race, 
 
 Begs for each birth the fortune of a face; 
 
 Yet Vane could tell what ills from beauty spring, 
 
 And Sedley cursed the charms which pleased a king." 
 
 Lord Hailes told him he was mistaken in the instances he had 
 given of unfortunate fair ones, for neither Vane nor Sedley had a title 
 to that description. His lordship has since been so obliging as to 
 send me a note of this, for the communication of which I am sure my 
 readers will thank me. 
 
 " The lines in the tenth satire of Juvenal, according to my 
 alteration, should have run thus : 
 
 " Yet Shore* could tell 
 
 And Yalieref cursed ." 
 
 " The first was a penitent by compulsion, the second by senti- 
 
 knowledge in Scotland, as well as promote the improvement of the city of Edinburgh. 
 He died November 10th, 1785. Mr. Maclaurin, advocate, was in 1787 elevated to the 
 bench under the title of Lord Dreghorn. He was a ban rivant, a wit and scholar, and 
 wrote several essays and light productions : he died in 1796. Dr. James Gregory -a dis- 
 tinguished member of an illustrious family lived till 1821. Dr. John Boswell, physician, 
 Edinburgh, died in 1780. ED. 
 
 * Mistress of Edward IV. BOSWELL. t Mistress of Louis XIV. IBID. 
 
 [Lord Hailes's emendations were not adopted by Johnson, but he seems to have 
 modified the allusion to Sedley by substituting the word " form" for " charms." To 
 have changed the name to that of Valiere would have destroyed the harmony of the 
 verse, and made the reference more obscure. Jane Shore would perhaps have been a 
 better instance than Ann Vane ; but when Johnson wrote, the latter, as having been the 
 mistress of Frederick Prince of Wales, and recently deceased (1736), besides being the 
 subject of memoirs and lampoons, was well known in England. Catherine Sedlej was 
 the mistress of James II., who created her Countess of Dorchester. Sir Charles Sedley, 
 her father, though shameless and profligate himself, seems to have felt this dishonour. 
 He eagerly joined the party of the Prince of Orange against James, saying, " As the 
 king has made my daughter a countess, I will endeavour to make his daughter a queen." 
 ED.]
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 31 
 
 ment ; though the truth is, Mademoiselle de la Valiere threw herself 
 (but still from sentiment) in the king's way. Our friend chose Vane, 
 who was far from being well-looked, and Sedley, who was so ugly that 
 Charles II. said his brother had her by way of penance." 
 
 Mr. Maclaurin's learning and talents enabled him to do his part 
 very well in Dr. Johnson's company. He produced two epitaphs upon 
 his father, the celebrated mathematician. One was in English, of 
 which Dr. Johnson did not change one word. In the other, which was 
 in Latin, he made several alterations. In place of the very words of 
 Virgil, " Ubi luctus et pavor et plurinia mortis imago," he wrote " Ubi 
 luctus regnant et pavor." He introduced the word prorsus into the 
 line, " Mortalibus prorsus non absit solatium," and after " Hujus 
 enim scripta evolve," he added, " Mentemque tantarum rerum capacem 
 corpori caduco superstitem crede," which is quite applicable to Dr. 
 Johnson himself.* 
 
 Mr. Murray, advocate, who married a niece of Lord Mansfield's 
 and is now one of the judges of 
 Scotland, by the title of Lord Hen- 
 derland, sat with us a part of the 
 evening, but did not venture to say 
 anything that I remember, though 
 he is certainly possessed of talents 
 which would have enabled him to 
 have shown himself to advantage, if 
 too great anxiety had not prevented 
 him.f 
 
 At supper we had Dr. Alexander 
 Webster, who, though not learned, 
 had such a knowledge of mankind, 
 such a fund of information and enter- 
 tainment, so clear a head and such 
 
 * Mr. Maclaurin's epitaph, as engraved on a marble tombstone, in the Gray- 
 Friars church-yard. Edinburgh : 
 
 Infra situs est 
 
 COLIN MACLAUUIN, 
 
 Mathes. olim in Acad. Edin. Prof. 
 
 Electus ipso Newtono suadente. 
 
 H. L. P. F. 
 Non ut nomini paterno consulat, 
 
 Nam tali auxilio nil egct ; 
 Sed ut in hoc infelici campo, 
 Ubi luctus regnant et pavor, 
 Mortalibus prorsus non absit solatium: 
 
 Hujus enim scripta evolve, 
 Mentemque tantarum rerum capacem 
 Corpori caduco superstitem crede. 
 
 t Lord Henderland died in 1795. His son, John Archibald Murray, is now a 
 J udge of the Court of Session under the title of Lord Murray. ED. 
 
 Dtt. ALEXANDER WEliST
 
 38 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 accommodating manners, that Dr. Johnson found him a very agree- 
 able companion.* 
 
 When Dr. Johnson and I were left by ourselves, I read to him my 
 notes of the Opinions of our Judges upon the Questions of Literary 
 Property. He did not like them, and said, " They make me think of 
 your judges not with that respect which I should wish to do." To 
 the argument of one of them that there can be no property in blas- 
 phemy or nonsense, he answered, " Then your rotten sheep are mine. 
 By that rule, when a man's house falls into decay, he must lose it."f 
 I mentioned an argument of mine, that literary performances are 
 not taxed ; as Churchill says, 
 
 " No statesman yet has thought it wortli his pains 
 To tax our labours or excise our brains ;" 
 
 and therefore they are not property. "Yet," said he, "we hang a 
 man for stealing a horse, and" horses are not taxed." Mr. Pitt has 
 since put an end to that argument. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 18. 
 
 On this day we set out from Edinburgh. We should gladly have 
 had Mr. Scott to go with us, but he was obliged to return to England. 
 I have given a sketcfe of Dr. Johnson ; my readers may wish to know 
 a little of his fellow-traveller. Think, then, of a gentleman of ancient 
 blood, the pride of which was his predominant passion. He was then 
 in his thirty-third year, and had been about four years happily mar- 
 
 * Dr. Webster was minister of the Tolbooth parish in Edinburgh. He originated 
 the Clergy's Widows* Fund, an admirable benevolent scheme, and was- the first to 
 draw up a return of the population in Scotland. This he accomplished in 1755. Be- 
 sides his talents and industry as a calculator and statist, Dr. Webster was a noted 
 evangelical preacher and convivial companion. He was married to a young lady of 
 great beauty, a Miss Erskine, whose favour he had solicited for a friend. The lady 
 frankly told him that he would perhaps come better speed if he were to speak for him- 
 self; and on this hint the minister spoke both in prose and verse, and was soon suc- 
 cessful. "It is related," says Chambers, "that going home early one morning with 
 strong symptoms of over-indulgence upon him, and being asked by a friend who met him, 
 ' What the Tolbooth Whigs would say if they were to see him at that moment ?' he 
 instantly replied, 'They would not .believe their own eyes.'" This genial, strong- 
 minded, and popular churchman lived to the age of seventy-seven, and died January 
 25th, 1784. ED. 
 
 t Lord Chancellor Eldon, it will be recollected, acted upon the opinion of the 
 Scottish Judge, when an injunction was applied for to restrain the circulation of a 
 pirated edition of Lord Byron's "Cain." Ue refused the injunction until it could be 
 shown that the publisher could maintain an action for the work. " It is- true," he 
 admitted, " that this mode of dealing with the work, if it be calculated to produce mis- 
 chievous effects, opens a door for its dissemination; but the duty of stopping the work 
 does not belong to a Court of Equity, which has no criminal jurisdiction, and cannot 
 punish or check the offence." The owner of the copyright might consider himself en- 
 titled to protection until the law had decided that the publication was mischievous. 
 The question has not been agitated since the date of the case brought before Lord 
 Eldon. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 33 
 
 ried. His inclination was to be a soldier ; but his father, a respectable 
 judge, had pressed him into the profession of the law. He had 
 travelled a good deal, and seen many varieties of human life. He 
 had thought more than anybody supposed, and had a pretty good stock 
 of general learning and knowledge. He had all Dr. Johnson's prin- 
 ciples, with some degree of relaxation. He had rather too little than 
 too much prudence ; and his imagination being lively, he often said 
 things of which the effect was very different from the intention. He 
 resembled sometimes 
 
 " The best good man, with the worst natared muse."* 
 
 He cannot deny himself the vanity of finishing with the encomium of 
 ])r. Johnson, whose friendly partiality to the companion of his tour 
 represents him as one " whose acuteness would help my inquiry, and 
 whose gaiety of conversation and civility of manners are sufficient to 
 counteract the inconveniences of travel in countries less hospitable 
 than we have passed." 
 
 Dr. Johnson thought it unnecessary to put himself to the addi- 
 tional expense of bringing with him Francis Barber, his faithful black 
 servant ; so we were attended only by my man, Joseph Hitter, a Bohe- 
 mian, a fine stately fellow above six feet high, who had been over a 
 great part of Europe, and spoke many languages. He was the best 
 servant I ever saw. Let not my readers disdain his introduction, for 
 Dr. Johnson gave him this character : " Sir, he is a civil man and a 
 wise man." 
 
 From an erroneous apprehension of violence, Dr. Johnson had pro- 
 vided a pair of pistols, some gunpowder, and a quantity of bullets 
 but upon being assured we should run no risk of meeting any rob- 
 bers, he left his arms and ammunition in an open drawer, of which 
 he gave my wife the charge. He also left in that drawer one volume 
 of a pretty full and curious diary of his life, of which I have a few 
 fragments, but the book lias been destroyed. I wish female curiosity 
 had been strong enough to have had it all transcribed, which might 
 easily have been done ; and I should think the theft, being pro bono 
 2mblico, might have been forgiven. But I may be wrong. My wife 
 told me she never once looked into it. She did not seem quite easy 
 when we left her ; but away we went. 
 
 Mr. Naime, advocate, was to go with us as far as St. Andrews. 
 It gives me pleasure that by mentioning his name I connect his title 
 to the just and handsome compliment paid him by Dr. Johnson in 
 
 * Rochester of Dorset; yet Dorset's song 1 , " To all you ladies now on land," 
 written at sea the night before an engagement, shows that his muse could be at times 
 propitious. Goldsmith in his " Retaliation" applies the above line, slightly altered, to 
 Caleb Whitcford. ED. 
 
 D
 
 34 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 bis book : " A gentleman who could stay with us only long enough to 
 make us know how much we lost by his leaving us."* When we came 
 to Leith, I talked with perhaps too boasting an air how pretty the 
 Frith of Forth looked ; as , indeed, after the prospect from Constan- 
 tinople, of which I have been told, and that from Naples, which I have 
 seen, I believe the view of that frith and its environs, from the 
 castle-hill of Edinburgh, is the finest prospect in Europe. "Ay," 
 said Dr. Johnson, " that is the state of the world. Water is the 
 same everywhere. 
 
 " ' Una est injusti caernla forma mans.' "f 
 
 I told him the port here was the mouth of the river or water of 
 Leith. " Not Letlie" said Mr. Nairne. " Why, sir," said Dr. John- 
 son, " when a Scotchman sets out from this port for England, he 
 forgets his native country." NAIRNE : " I hope, sir, you will forget 
 England here." JOHNSON: "Then 'twill still be more Lethe." He 
 observed of the pier or quay, " You have no occasion for so large a one; 
 your trade does not require it. But you are like a shopkeeper who 
 takes a shop, not only for what he has to put in it, but that it may be 
 believed he has a great deal to put into it." It is very true that there 
 is now comparatively little trade upon the eastern coast of Scotland. 
 The riches of Glasgow show how much there is in the west ; and 
 perhaps we shall t find trade travel westward on a great scale as well 
 as a small. 
 
 We talked of a man's drowning himself. JOHNSON: "I shall 
 never think it time to make away with myself." I put the case of 
 Eustace Budgell, who was accused of forging a will, and sunk him- 
 self in the Thames before the trial of its authenticity came on. 
 " Suppose, sir," said I, " that a man is absolutely sure that if he lives 
 a few days longer he shall be detected in a fraud, the consequence of 
 which will be utter disgrace and expulsion from society." JOHNSON : 
 " Then, sir, let him go abroad to a distant country. Let him go to 
 some place where he is not known ; don't let him go to the devil, 
 where he is known." 
 
 Mr. Nairne was a younger son of Sir William Nairne of Dunsinnan, Bart. In 
 1786 he was promoted to the bench and took the title of Lord Dunsinnan. On hearing 
 of the title, the lively Duchess of Gordon is said to have remarked to the Judge, " I am 
 astonished, my lord, for I never knew you had begun sinning." In 1790 the Judge suc- 
 ceeded to the baronetcy, and died at a very advanced age at Dunsinnan House, March 
 25th, 1811. Lord Dunsinnan was greatly esteemed, and on obtaining possession of the 
 family estate became an ardent and judicious rural .improver. ED. 
 t " Non illic urbes, non tu mirabere silvas ; 
 Una est injusti caerula forma maris. " 
 
 OVID. AMOH. Lib. II. El. xi. 
 Nor groves nor towns the ruthless ocean shows ; 
 Unvaried still its azure surface flows. BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 35 
 
 He then said, " I see a number of people barefooted here ; I sup- 
 pose you all went so before the Union. Boswell, your ancestors went 
 so when they had as much land as your family has now. Yet 
 Auchinleck is the field of stones ; there would be bad going bare- 
 footed there. The lairds, however, did it." I bought some speldings, 
 fish (generally whitings) salted and dried in a particular manner, 
 being dipped in the sea and dried in the sun, and eaten by the Scots 
 by way of a relish. He had never seen them, though they are sold 
 in London. I insisted on scottifying* his palate ; but he was very 
 reluctant. With difficulty I prevailed with him to let a bit of one of 
 them lie in his mouth. He did not like it. 
 
 In crossing the frith, Dr. Johnson determined that we should 
 laud upon Inch Keith. On approaching it, we first observed a 
 high rocky shore. We coasted about, and put into a little bay on 
 the north-west. We clambered up a very steep ascent, on which was 
 very good grass, but rather a profusion of thistles. There were sixteen 
 head of black cattle grazing upon the island. Lord Hailes observed to 
 me that Brantome calls it " L'isle des chevaux," and that it was pro- 
 bably " a safer stable" than many others in his time. The fort, withjaii 
 inscription on it, " Maria Re. 1504," is strongly built. Dr. Johnson 
 examined it with much attention. He stalked like a giant among the 
 luxuriant thistles and nettles. There are three wells in the island, 
 but we could not find one in the fort. There must probably have 
 been one, though now filled up, as a garrison could not subsist with- 
 out it. But I have dwelt too long on this little spot. Dr. Johnson 
 afterwards bade me try to write a description of our discovering Inch 
 Keith, in the usual style of travellers, describing fully every parti- 
 cular, stating the grounds on which we concluded that it must have 
 once been inhabited, and introducing many sage reflections, and 
 we should see how a thing might be covered in words so as to induce 
 people to come and survey it. All that was told might be true, and 
 yet in reality there might be nothing to see. He said, " I'd have this 
 island. I'd build a house, make a good landing-place, have a garden, 
 and vines, and all sorts of trees. A rich man of a hospitable turn 
 here would have many visitors from Edinburgh." When we had got 
 into our boat again, he called to me, " Come, now, pay a classical 
 compliment to the island on quitting it." I happened, luckily, in 
 allusion to the beautiful Queen Mary, whose name is upon the fort, 
 to think of what Virgil makes ..Eneas say on having left the country of 
 his charming Dido. 
 
 * My friend General Campbell, Governor of Madras, tells me that they make 
 spclding-s in the East Indies, particularly at Bombay, where they call them bambalocs. 
 BOSWELL. 
 
 D2
 
 36 JOURNAL OF A TOCH 
 
 "Invitus, regina, tuo de littore cessi."* 
 
 "Very well hit off," said he. 
 
 We dined at Kinghorn, and then got into a post-chaise. Mr. 
 Nairne, and his servant and Joseph, rode by us. We stopped at 
 Cupar, and drank tea. We talked of Parliament ; and I said I sup- 
 posed very few of the Members knew much of what was going on, 
 as, indeed, very few gentlemen know much of their own private 
 affairs. JOHNSON : " Why, sir, if a man is not of a sluggish mind, he 
 may be his own steward. If he will look into his affairs, he will 
 soon learn. So it is as to public affairs. There must always be a 
 certain number of men of business in Parliament." BOSWELL : " But 
 consider, sir, what is the House of Commons ? Is not a great part of 
 it chosen by the peers ? Do you think, sir, they ought to have such 
 an influence ?" JOHNSON : " Yes, sir. Influence must ever be in pro- 
 portion to property; and it is right it should." BOSWELL: " But is 
 there not reason to fear that the common people may be oppressed ?" 
 JOHNSON: "No, sir. Our great fear is from want of power in Go- 
 vernment, such a storm of vulgar force has broke in." BOSWELL : 
 " It has only roared." JOHNSON : " Sir, it has roared till the judges in 
 Westminster Hall have been afraid to pronounce sentence in oppo- 
 sition to the popular cry. You are frightened by what is no longer 
 dangerous, like Presbyterians by Popery." He then repeated a pas- 
 sage, I think, in Butler's " Remains," which ends, " And would cry, 
 Fire ! Fire ! in Noah's flood."f 
 
 We had a dreary drive, in a dusky night, to St. Andrews, where 
 we arrived late. We found a good supper at Glass's inn, and Dr. 
 Johnson revived agreeably. He said, " The collection called ' The 
 Muses' Welcome to King James' (First of England and Sixth of 
 
 -Unhappy queen ! 
 
 Unwilling I forsook your friendly state." DRYDEN. 
 
 t The passage quoted by Dr. Johnson is in the " Character of the Assembly-man." 
 Butler's Remains, p. 232, edit. 1754." He preaches, indeed, both in season and out 
 of season ; for he rails at Popery, when the land is almost lost in Presbytery ; and would 
 cry Fire ! Fire ! in Noah's flood." 
 
 There is reason to believe that this piece was not written by Butler, but by Sir 
 John Birkenhead; for Wood, in his " Athens Oxonienses," vol. II. p. 640, enumerates it 
 among that gentleman's works, and gives the following account of it : 
 
 " ' The Assembly-man' (or, ' The Character of an Assembly-man') written 1647, Lend. 
 1662-3, in three sheets in qu. The copy of it was taken from the author by those who 
 said they could not rob, because all was theirs ; so excised what they liked not, and so 
 mangled and reformed it that it was no character of an assembly, but of themselves. At 
 length, after it had slept several years, the author published it to avoid false copies. It 
 is also reprinted in a book entitled 'Wit and Loyalty Revived,' in a collection of some 
 smart satyrs in verse and prose on the late times, Lond. 1682, qu., said to be written by 
 Abr. Cowley, Sir John Birkenhead, and Hudibras, alias Samuel Butler." For this in- 
 formation I am indebted to Mr. Reed, of Staple Inn. BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 37 
 
 Scotland), on his return to his native kingdom, showed that there 
 was then abundance of learning in. Scotland ; and that the conceits 
 in that collection with which people find fault were mere mode." He 
 added, " We could not now entertain a sovereign so ; that Buchanan 
 had spread the spirit of learning amongst us, but we had lost it 
 during the civil wars." He did not allow the Latin poetry of Pit- 
 cairne so much merit as has been usually attributed to it, though 
 he owned that one of his pieces, which he mentioned, but which I 
 am sorry is not specified in my notes, was " very well." It is not 
 improbable that it was the poem which Prior has so elegantly 
 translated. * 
 
 After supper we made a procession to Saint Leonard's College, 
 the landlord walking before us with a candle, and the waiter with a 
 Lantern. That college had some time before been dissolved ; and Dr. 
 Watson, a professor here (the historian of Philip II.), had purchased 
 the ground and what buildings remained. When we entered this 
 court, it seemed quite academical ; and we found in his house very 
 comfortable and genteel accommodation.! 
 
 THURSDAY, AUGUST 19. 
 
 We rose much refreshed. I had with me a map of Scotland, 
 a Bible which was given me by Lord Mountstuart when we were 
 together in Italy, and Ogden's " Sermons on Prayer." Mr. Naime 
 introduced us to Dr. Watson, whom wefound a well-informed man, of 
 very amiable manners. Dr. Johnson, after they were acquainted, 
 said, " I take great delight in him." His daughter, a very pleasing 
 young lady, made breakfast. Dr. Watson observed that Glasgow 
 University had fewer home-students since trade increased, as learn- 
 ing was rather incompatible with it. JOHNSON: "Why, sir, as trade 
 is now carried on by subordinate hands, men in trade have as much 
 leisure as others ; and now learning itself is a trade. A man goes to 
 a bookseller and gets what he can. We have done with patronage. 
 
 * Gualterus Danistonm ad Amicos. Pitcairne wrote several pieces under the name 
 of Walter Daniston. Prior's imitation opens in that easy, graceful style of which he 
 was so perfect a master: 
 
 " Studious the busy moments to deceive 
 That fleet between the cradle and the grave, 
 I credit what the Grecian dictates say, 
 And Saiman sounds o'er Scotia's hills convey." 
 
 Pitcairne's most celebrated Latin poem is his epitaph on Viscount Dundee, translated 
 by Dryden. This learned physician died at Edinburgh, October 20th, 1713, aged sixty- 
 one. ED. 
 
 + My Journal, from this day inclusive, wai read by Dr. Johnson. BOSWELL. 
 [Dr. Watson was then Professor of Logic in the College of St. Salvator. In 1777 he 
 was appointed Principal of the United Colleges of St. Andrews. He died in 1781, aged 
 fifty-one. ED.]
 
 38 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 In the infancy of learning, we find some great man praised for it. 
 This diffused it among others. When it hecomes general an author 
 leaves the great, and applies to the multitude. BOSWELL: "It is a 
 shame that authors are not now better patronised." JOHNSON : " No, 
 sir. If learning cannot support a man, if he must sit with his hands 
 across till somebody feeds him, it is as to him a bad thing, and it 
 is better as it is. With patronage, what flattery ! what falsehood ! 
 While a man is in equilibrio, he throws truth among the multitude, 
 and lets them take it as they please ; in patronage, he must say 
 what pleases his patron, and it is an equal chance whether that be 
 truth or falsehood." WATSON: "But is not the case now, that, 
 instead of flattering one person, we flatter the age ?" JOHNSON : " No, 
 sir. The world always lets a man tell what he thinks his own way. 
 I wonder, however, that so many people have written who might 
 have let it alone. That people should endeavour to excel in conver- 
 sation I do not wonder ; because in conversation praise is instantly 
 reverberated." 
 
 We talked of change of manners. Dr. Johnson observed that 
 our drinking less than our ancestors was owing to the change from 
 ale to wine. " I remember," said he, " when all the decent people in 
 Lichfield got drunk every night, and were not the worse thought 
 of. Ale was cheap, so you pressed strongly. When a man must 
 bring a bottle of wine, he is not in such haste. Smoking has gone 
 out. To be sure, it is a shocking thing, blowing smoke out of our 
 mouths, into oilier people's mouths, eyes, and noses, and having the 
 same thing done to us. Yet I cannot accoiint why a thing which 
 requires so little exertion, and yet preserves the mind from total 
 vacuity, should have gone out. Every man has something by which 
 he calms himself; beating with his feet, or so.* I remember when 
 people in England changed a shirt only once a week ; a Pandour, 
 when he gets a shirt, greases it to make it last. Formerly, good 
 tradesmen had no fire but in the kitchen ; never in the parlour, ex- 
 cept on Sunday. My father, who was a magistrate of Lichfield, lived 
 thus. They never begun to have a fire in the parlour but on leaving 
 off business, or some great revolution of their life." Dr. Watson said 
 the hall was as a kitchen in old squires' houses. JOHNSON : " No, 
 sir. The' hall was for great occasions, and never was used for 
 domestic refcction."f We talked of the Union, and what money it 
 
 * Dr. Johnson used to practise this himself very much. BOSWELL. 
 
 t The nuncupative will of Milton gives a picture (inexpressibly touching in its minute-
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 39 
 
 had brought into Scotland. Dr. Watson observed, that a little money 
 formerly went as far as a great deal now. JOHNSON : " In specula- 
 tion, it seems* that a smaller quantity of money, equal in value to a 
 larger quantity if equally divided, should produce the same effect. 
 But it is not so in reality. Many more conveniences and elegancies 
 are enjoyed where money is plentiful than where it is scarce. Per- 
 haps a great familiarity with it, which arises from plenty, makes us 
 more easily part with it." 
 
 After what Dr. Johnson had said of St. Andrews, which he had 
 long wished to see, as our oldest university, and the seat of our Pri- 
 mate in the days of episcopacy, I can say little. Since the publica- 
 tion of Dr. Johnson's book, I find that he has been censured for not 
 seeing here the ancient chapel of St. Rule, a curious piece of sacred 
 architecture. But this was neither his fault nor mine. We were 
 both of us abundantly desirous of surveying such sort of antiquities ; 
 but neither of us knew of this. I am afraid the censure must fall 
 on those who did not tell us of it.* In every place, where there is 
 anything worthy of observation, there should be a short printed 
 directory for strangers, such as we find in all the towns of Italy, and 
 in some of the towns of England. I was told that there is a manu- 
 script account of St. Andrews, by Martin, secretary to Archbishop 
 Sharp ; and that one Douglas has published a small account of it. 
 I inquired at a bookseller's, but could not get it. Dr. Johnson's vene- 
 ration for the hierarchy is well known. There is no wonder, then, 
 that he was affected with a strong indignation while he beheld the 
 ruins of reh'gious magnificence. I happened to ask where John Knox 
 was buried. Dr. Johnson burst out, " I hope in the highway ! I 
 have been looking at his reformations !" 
 
 It was a very fine day. Dr. Johnson seemed quite wrapt up in 
 
 Charles I., and perhaps later, this appears to have been the case, excepting in very 
 stately houses. Tusserin his " Points ofHuswifery " (written in the reign of Elizabeth) 
 speaks of the hall as the refectory. The custom had changed before the days of Addison. 
 Sir Roger de Coverley has his great hall hung with the trophies and implements of his 
 field-sports, in which he feasts the whole village at Christmas, but it was not his com- 
 mon dining-room. Pope, in a^letter to the Duke of Buckingham, gives an exquisite 
 description of a large old country seat with its grejit hall. ED. 
 
 * Supposed to have been built before the ninth century, if not much earlier. " The 
 Chapel was used as a Culdee place of worship, and in the early ages was regarded with 
 much veneration. Before the erection of the Cathedral it served as the Episcopal church 
 of the diocese. Here Hungus, King of the Picts, and his nobles, offered thanks and devo- 
 tion to St. Andrew for the victory over Athelstane, which they conceived that they had 
 obtained through the influence of the Apostle: here Constantino III. was first interred 
 till his bones were removed to lona: here Alexander I. bestowed the munificent grant of 
 the Cursus Apri : here are interred many of the early Culdeau fathers, many mitred 
 prelates, many saints and sages, whose dust has been turned over a thousand times." 
 Roger's " History of St. Andrews," 1849. ED.
 
 40 JOCKNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 the contemplation of the scenes which were now presented to him. 
 He kept his hat off while he was upon any part of the ground where 
 the cathedral had stood. He said well that Knox had set on a mob, 
 without knowing where it would end ; and that differing from a man 
 in doctrine was no reason why you should pull his house down about 
 his ears.* As we walked in the cloisters, there was a solemn echo, 
 while he talked loudly of a proper retirement from the world. Mr. 
 
 C.ITUEDEAL OF tT. ANDREWS. 
 
 Nairne said he had an inclination to retire. I called Dr. Johnson's 
 attention to this, that I might hear his opinion if it was right. 
 JOHNSON : " Yes, when he has done his duty to society. In general, 
 as every man is obliged not only to ' love God, but his neighbour as 
 himself,' he must bear his part in active life ; yet there are excep- 
 tions. Those who are exceedingly scrupulous (which I do not approve, 
 for I am no friend to scruples), and find their scrupulosity invincible, 
 so that they are quite in the dark, and know not what they should 
 do, or those who cannot resist temptations, and find they make them- 
 
 * The cathedral and monasteries of St. Andrews were desroyed, all the authorities 
 and inhabitants concurring 1 , on the 14th of June, 1559. Henry VIII. had previously 
 caused the destruction of Melrose, Xelso, Dryburgh, Jedburgh, &c., and had given 
 injunction that St. Andrews should be razed to the earth. " If Kriox urged that ' to 
 drive the rooks away, you must pull down the nests,' Henry VIII. had long before 
 quoted the game adage for the same purpose. If Knox, at Perth and St. Andrews, 
 preached violently or coarsely against image-worship, Queen Elizabeth appointed a 
 scarcely less vehement ' Homily against Peril of Idolatry' to be read in every parish 
 church of her realm. If, stirred up by Knox's sermons, the ' rascal multitude,' as he 
 styled them, broke down shrine and statue, chantrey and chapel, the English mob had 
 done the same in the early years of Edward VI., and the work of demolition had been 
 completed by the formal authority of that prince and his successor." Quarterly 
 Review, June 1849. EB.
 
 TO THB HEBRIDES. 41 
 
 selves worse by being in the world without making it better, may 
 retire. I never read of a hermit, but in imagination I kiss his feet; 
 never of a monastery, but I could fall on my knees and kiss the 
 pavement. But I think putting young people there who know 
 nothing ot life, nothing of retirement, is dangerous and wicked. Ik 
 is a saying as old as Hesiod 
 
 Epya yfv, |3ouXai ri /u.iauv, u%( rt ftpovTur.* 
 
 That is a very noble line : not that young men should not pray, 
 or old men not give counsel, but that every season of life lias its 
 proper duties. I have thought of retiring, and have talked of it to 
 a friend ; but I find my vocation is rather to active life." I said, 
 some young monks might be allowed to show that it is not age 
 alone that can retire to pious solitude ; but he thought this would 
 only show that they could not resist temptation. 
 
 He wanted to mount the steeples, but it could not be done. There 
 are no good inscriptions here. Bad Roman characters he naturally 
 
 CASTLE OF ST. iXHHEW. 
 
 mistook for half Gothic, half Human. One of the steeples, which 
 he was told was in danger, he wished not to be taken down; " for," 
 said he, " it may fall on some of the posterity of John Knox; and 
 no great matter !"f Dinner was mentioned. JOHNSON: "Ay, ay; 
 amidst all these sorrowful scenes, I have no objection to dinner." 
 We went and looked at the castle, where Cardinal Beaton was 
 
 * Let youth in deeds, in counsel man engage; 
 
 Prayer is the proper duty of old age. BOSWELL. 
 
 t The cathedral when entire had five towers and a great steeple ; three of the towers 
 remain, and are about a hundred feet in height. By grants from the Government, the 
 ruins of St. Andrews, with those of a similar description throughout Scotland, are kept 
 from further decay by occasional repairs. ED.
 
 43 JOUBNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 murdered,* and then visited Principal Murison at his college, where 
 is a good library-room ; but the Principal was abundantly vain of 
 it, for he seriously said to Dr. Johnson, " You have not such a one in 
 England." 
 
 The professors entertained us with a very good dinner. Present : 
 Murison, Shaw, Cook, Hill, Haddo, Watson, Flint, Brown.f I ob- 
 served, that I wondered to see him eat so well, after viewing so many 
 sorrowful scenes of ruined religious magnificence. \" Why," said he, 
 " I am not sorry, after seeing these gentlemen ; for they are not sorry." 
 Murison said, all sorrow was bad, as it was murmuring against the 
 dispensations of Providence. JOHNSON: "Sir, sorrow is inherent in 
 humanity. As you cannot judge two and two to be either five or 
 three, but certainly four, so, when comparing a worse present state 
 with a better which is past, you cannot but feel sorrow. It is not 
 cured by reason, but by the incursion of present objects, which wear 
 out the past. You need not murmur, though you are sorry." Mu- 
 RISON : " But St. Paul says, I have learnt, in whatever state I am, 
 therewith to be content." JOHNSON : " Sir, that relates to riches and 
 poverty ; for we]see St. Paul, when he had a thorn in the flesh, prayed 
 earnestly to have it removed ; and then he could not be content." 
 Murison, thus refuted, tried to be smart ; and drank to Dr. Johnson, 
 " Long may you lecture !" Dr. Johnson afterwards, speaking of his 
 not] drinking wine, said, " The Doctor spoke of lecturing (looking to 
 him). I give all these lectures on water." 
 
 He defended requiring subscription in those admitted to univer- 
 sities, thus : " As all who come into the country must obey the king, 
 so all who come into an university must be of the Church." 
 
 * The castle of St. Andrews is connected with many interesting historical associa- 
 tions. It was the residence of the chivalrous James I. of Scotland and the prison of 
 Gawin Douglas and George Buchanan. In front of its walls George Wishart, the Pro- 
 testant martyr, suffered on the 1st of March, 1545. ''The'executioner having kindled 
 the fire, the powder that was fastened to his body blew up. The captain of the castle, 
 who stood near him, perceiving that he was yet alive, bade him be of good courage and 
 commend his soul to God. ' This flame,' said he, ' hath scorched my body, yet hath it 
 not daunted my spirit ; but he who from yonder high place beholdeth us with such pride 
 shall within a few days lie in the same spot as ignominiously as now he is seen proudly 
 to rest himself." " The allusion here was to Cardinal David Beaton, who from one of the 
 towers of the castle, seated on a cushion, surveyed the spectacle of Wishart's death. 
 About fifteen months afterwards, May 29th, 1546, Beaton was murdered in the castle by 
 Norman Leslie, son of the Earl of Roth.es, Kirkaldy of Grange, and others, who, besides 
 revenging the death of Wishart, had a private feud with the cardinal. ED. 
 
 + Of these St. Andrews Professors, Dr. George Hill, the youngest, became the most 
 distinguished. He succeeded Dr. Robertson . as leader of the moderate party in the 
 Church, and was author of " Theological Institutes," and other works. He died De- 
 cember 19th, 1819- Principal Murison, who boasted so egregiously of the College Library,- 
 and, what is more remarkable, seems to have astonished and silenced Johnson by the 
 boast, died July 30, 1779. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 43 
 
 And here I must do Dr. Johnson the justice to contradict a 
 very absurd and ill-natured story as to what passed at St. Andrews. 
 It has been circulated, that, after grace was said in English, in the 
 usual manner, he with the greatest marks of contempt, as if he had 
 held it to be no grace in an ttniversity, would not sit down till he had 
 said grace aloud in Latin. This would have been an insult indeed 
 to the gentlemen who were entertaining us. But the truth was pre- 
 cisely thus. In the course of conversation at dinner, Dr. Johnson, in 
 very good humour, said, " I should have expected to have heard a 
 Latin grace, among so many learned men : we had always a Latin 
 grace at Oxford. I believe T can repeat it." Which he did, as giving 
 the learned men in one place a specimen of what was done by the 
 learned men in another place. 
 
 We went and saw the church in which is Archbishop Sharp's 
 monument.* I was struck with the same kind of feelings with which 
 
 ARCHBISHOP SHARP'S MONVMEXT. 
 
 the churches of Italy impressed me. I was much pleased to see Dr. 
 Johnson actually in St. Andrews, of which we had talked so long. 
 Professor Haddo was with us this afternoon, along with Dr. Watson. 
 We looked at St. Salvator's College. The rooms for students seemed 
 very commodious, and Dr. Johnson said the chapel was the neatest 
 place of worship he had seen. The key of the library could not 
 
 * The monument was commissioned from Holland by the Archbishop's son, Sir Wil- 
 liam Sharp of Seotscraig. It is a very elaborate work, composed of black and white 
 marble with an urn containing a long- inscription, and under it a bas-relief representa- 
 tion of the murder of Archbishop Sharp on Magus Muir, May 3rd, 1679. The assassina- 
 tion of the prelate, as is well known, was the work of a band of fanatics, nine in number, 
 the principal parties being a landed proprietor, Hackston of Kamillet, and his brother- 
 in-law, Balfour of Kinloch or Burlcy, of whom Scott has given so vivid a portraiture in 
 " Old Mortality." Tke archbishop's tomb was completely repaired and renovated in 184'J, 
 and on this occasion it was found that the vault had been opened and the bones of the 
 archbishop carried away ! ED.
 
 44 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 be found ; for it seems Professor Hill, who was out of town, had 
 taken it with him. Dr. Johnson told a joke he had heard of a 
 monastery ahroacl, where the key of the library could never he found. 
 
 It was somewhat dispiriting to see this ancient archiepiscopal city 
 now sadly deserted. We saw in one of its streets a remarkable proof 
 of liberal toleration ; a nonjuring clergyman strutting about in his 
 canonicals, with a jolly countenance and a round belly, like a well- 
 fed monk. 
 
 We observed two occupations united in the same person, who 
 had hung out two sign-posts. Upon one was, " James Hood, White 
 Iron Smith" (i.e., Tin-plate Worker). Upon another, "The Art of 
 Fencing taught, by James Hood." Upon this last were painted some 
 trees, and two men fencing, one of whom had hit the other in the 
 eye, to show his great dexterity; so that the art was well taught. 
 JOHNSON : " Were I studying here, I should go and take a lesson. 
 I remember Hope, in his book on this art, says the Scotch are very 
 good fencers." 
 
 We returned to the inn, where we had been entertained at dinner, 
 and drank tea in company with some of the Professors, of whose 
 civilities I beg leave to add my humble and very grateful acknow- 
 ledgment to the honourable testimony of Dr. Johnson in his 
 " Journey." 
 
 We talked of composition, which was a favourite topic of Dr. Wat- 
 son's, who first distinguished himself by lectures on rhetoric. JOHN- 
 SON : " I advised Chambers, and would advise every young man 
 beginning to compose, to do it as fast as he can, to get a habit of 
 having his mind to start promptly; it is so much more difficult to 
 improve in speed than in accuracy." WATSON : " I own I am for 
 much attention to accuracy in composing, lest one should get bad 
 habits of doing it in a slovenly manner." JOHNSON : " Why, sir, 
 you are confounding doing inaccurately with the necessity of doing 
 inaccurately. A man knows when his composition is inaccurate, 
 and when he thinks fit he'll correct it. But, if a man is accustomed 
 to compose slowly, and with difficulty, upon all occasions, there is 
 danger that he may not compose at all, as we do not like to do that 
 which is not done easily ; and, at any rate, more time is consumed in 
 a small matter than ought to be." WATSON : " Dr. Hugh Blair has 
 taken a week to compose a sermon." JOHNSON : " Then, sir, that is 
 for want of the habit of composing quickly, which I am insisting 
 one should acquire."* WATSON: "Blair was not composing all the 
 
 Paley's direction in his College lectures was, " As 'to preaching 1 , if your situation 
 require* a sermon every Sunday, make one and steal five." ED.
 
 TO THE HEUIUDES. 45 
 
 week, but only such hours as he found himself disposed for com- 
 position." JOHNSON: "Nay, sir, unless you tell me the time he 
 took, you tell me nothing. If I say I took a week to walk a mile, 
 and have had the gout five days, and been ill otherwise another day, 
 I have taken but one day. I myself have composed about forty 
 sermons. I have begun a sermon after dinner, and sent it off by 
 the post that night. I wrote forty-eight of the printed octavo pages 
 of the ' Life of Savage' at a sitting ; but then I sat up all night. I 
 have also written six sheets in a day of translation from the French." 
 BOSWELL : " We have all observed how one man dresses himself 
 slowly and another fast." JOHNSON: "Yes, sir; it is wonderful how 
 much time some people will consume in dressing ; taking up a thing 
 and looking at it, and laying it down, and taking it up again. Every- 
 one should get the habit of doing it quickly. I would say to a young 
 divine, ' Here is your text ; let me see how soon you can make a ser- 
 mon.' Then I'd say, ' Let me see how much better you can make it.' 
 Thus I should see both his powers and his judgment." 
 
 We all went to Dr. Watson's to supper. Miss Sharp, great-grand- 
 child of Archbishop Sharp, was there ; as was Mr. Craig, the inge- 
 nious architect of the new town of Edinburgh, and nephew of Thom- 
 son, to whom Dr. Johnson has since done so much justice, in lu's 
 " Lives of the Poets." 
 
 We talked of memory and its various modes. JOHNSON : " Me- 
 mory will play strange tricks. One sometimes loses a single word. 
 I once lostfugaces in the Ode ' Posthume, Posthume.' " I mentioned 
 to him that a worthy gentleman of my acquaintance actually forgot 
 his own name. JOHNSON : " Sir, that was a morbid oblivion." 
 
 FRIDAY, AUGUST 20. 
 
 Dr. Shaw, the Professor of Divinity, breakfasted with us. I took 
 out my " Ogden on Prayer," and read some of it to the company. Dr. 
 Johnson praised him. "Abernethy," said he, "allows only of a 
 physical effect of prayer upon the mind, which may be produced 
 many ways, as well as by prayer; for instance, by meditation. Ogden 
 goes further. In truth, we have the consent of all nations for the 
 efficacy of prayer, whether offered up by individuals or by assem- 
 blies; and revelation has told us it will be effectual." I said, 
 " Leechman seemed to incline to Abernethy's doctrine." Dr. Watson 
 observed that Leechman meant to show that, even admitting no 
 effect to be produced by prayer respecting the Deity, it was useful to 
 our own minds. He had only given apart of his system. Dr. John- 
 son thought he should have given the whole.* 
 
 * Dr. William Leechman wrote a Life of Ilutcheson, the father of speculative philo-
 
 46 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Dr. Johnson enforced the strict observance of Sunday. "It 
 should be different," he observed, "from another day. People may 
 walk, but not throw stones at birds. There may be relaxation, but 
 there should be no levity." 
 
 We went and saw Colonel Nairne's garden and grotto. Here was a 
 fine old plane-tree. Unluckily, the colonel said there was but this and 
 another large tree in the county. This assertion was an excellent 
 cue for Dr. Johnson, who laughed enormously, calling me to hear it. 
 He had expatiated to me on the nakedness of that part of Scotland 
 which he had seen His "Journey" has been violently abused for 
 what he has said upon this subject. But let it be considered that 
 when Dr. Johnson talks of trees he means trees of good size, such as 
 he was accustomed to see in England ; and of these there are cer- 
 tainly very few upon the eastern coast of Scotland. Besides, he 
 said he only meant to give a map of the road ; and let any traveller 
 observe how many trees which desei've the name he can see from 
 the road from Berwick to Aberdeen. Had Dr. Johnson said, " There 
 are no trees " upon this line, he would have said what is colloquially 
 true; because by no trees, in common speech, we mean few. When 
 he is particular in counting he may be attacked. I know not how 
 Colonel Nairne came to say there were but two large trees in the 
 county of Fife. I did not perceive that he smiled. There are cer- 
 tainly not a great many; but I could have shown him more than two 
 at Balmuto, from whence my ancestors came, and which now belongs 
 to a branch of my family.-:-' 
 
 The grotto was ingeniously consti-ucted. In the front of it were 
 petrified stocks of fir, plane, and some other tree. Dr. Johnson said, 
 " Scotland has no right to boast of this grotto ; it is owing to personal 
 merit. I never denied personal merit to many of you." Professor 
 Shaw said to me as we walked, " This is a wonderful man, he is master 
 of every subject he handles." Dr. Watson allowed him a very strong 
 understanding, but wondered at his total inattention to established 
 manners, as he came from. London. 
 
 I have not preserved in my Journal any of the conversation 
 which passed between Dr. Johnson and Professor Shaw ; but I 
 
 sophy in Scotland ; also a discourse on prayer. He was successively Professor of Theo- 
 logy and Principal of the University of Glasgow. He died December 3rd, 1786, aged 
 eighty. John Abernethy was a Dissenting minister in Ireland, born at Coleraine in 
 1680, died in 1740. His sermons fill six volumes, and he wrote various able theological 
 treatises. ED. 
 
 * Pennant in his Scottish Tour of 1769 had observed the paucity of trees in Fife- 
 shire, " except about a gentleman's seat called Blair, where there are great and flourish- 
 ing plantations." Pennant notices that a spirit for planting had become general in 
 Scotland ; and Johnson's " Journey" materially increased it. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 47 
 
 recollect Dr. Johnson said to me afterwards, " I took much to 
 Shaw."* 
 
 We left St. Andrews about noon, and, some miles from it, ob- 
 serving at Leuchars a church with an old tower, we stopped to look 
 at it.f The manse, as the parsonage-house is called in Scotland, 
 was close by. I waited on the minister, mentioned our names, and 
 begged he would tell us what he knew about it. He was a veiy civil 
 old man, but could only inform us that it was supposed to have stood 
 eight hundred years. He told us there was a colony of Danes in his 
 parish, that they had landed at a remote period of time, and still 
 remained a distinct people. Dr. Johnson shrewdly inquired whether 
 they had brought women with them. We were not satisfied as to this 
 colony. 
 
 We saw this day Dundee and Aberbrothick, the last of which 
 Dr. Johnson has celebrated in his " Journey." Upon the road we 
 talked of the Roman Catholic faith. He -mentioned, I think, Tillot- 
 son's argument against transubstantiation : " That we are as sure we 
 see bread and wine only, as that we read in the Bible the text on 
 which that false doctrine is founded. We have only the evidence of 
 our senses for both." " If," he added, " God had never spoken figura- 
 tively, we might hold that he speaks literally when he says, ' This is 
 my body.'" BOSWELL: "But what do you say, sir, to the ancient 
 and continued tradition of the Church upon this point?" JOHNSON: 
 " Tradition, sir, has no place where the Scriptures are plain ; and 
 tradition cannot persuade a man into a belief of transubstantiation. 
 Able men, indeed, have said they believed it." 
 
 This is an awful subject. I did not then press Dr. Johnson upon 
 it ; nor shall I now enter upon a disquisition concerning the import 
 of those words uttered by our Saviour,}; which had such an effect 
 upon many of his disciples that they " went back, and walked no more 
 with him." The Catechism and solemn Office for Communion, in the 
 Church of England, maintain a mysterious belief in more than a mere 
 commemoration of the death of Christ, by partaking of the elements 
 of bread and wine. 
 
 Dr. Johnson put me in mind that, at St. Andrews, I had defended 
 my profession very well, when the question had again been started, 
 
 * Professor Andrew Shaw of St. Mary's College, St. Andrews, died November 27, 
 1779. ED. 
 
 t This church is chiefly Saxon in style built apparently in the eleventh or 
 twelfth century. ED. 
 
 t " Then Jesus said unto them, Verily, verily, I say unto you, Except ye eat the flesh 
 of the Son of man, and drink his blood, ye have no life in you." See St. John's Gospel, 
 chap, vi. 53 and following verses. BOSWBLL.
 
 48 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Whether a lawyer might honestly engage with the first side that offers 
 him a fee. 
 
 " Sir," said I, " it was with your arguments against Sir William 
 Forbes ; but it was much that I could wield the arms of Goliah." 
 
 He said our judges had not gone deep in the question con- 
 cerning literary property. I mentioned Lord Monboddo's opinion, 
 that if a man could get a work by heart he might print it, as by such 
 an act the mind is exercised. JOHNSON : " No, sir ; a man's repeating 
 it no more makes it his property, than a man may sell a cow which 
 he drives home." I said printing an abridgement of a work was 
 allowed, which was only cutting the horns and tail off the cow. 
 JOHNSON : " No, sir ; 'tis making the cow have a calf." 
 
 VIZTV OF MOXTROSE. 
 
 About eleven at night we arrived at Montrose. We found but a 
 sorry inn, where I myself saw another waiter put a lump of sugar with 
 his fingers into Dr. Johnson's lemonade, for which he called him 
 " Rascal !" It put me in great glee that our landlord was an English- 
 man. I rallied the Doctor upon this, and he grew quiet. Both Sir 
 John Hawkins's and Dr. Burney's History of Music had then been 
 advertised. I asked if this was not unlucky ; would not they hurt 
 one another? JOHNSON : " No, sir, they will do good to one another.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 49 
 
 Some will buy the one, some the other, and compare them ; and so 
 a talk is made about a tluug, and the books are sold." 
 
 He was angry at me * for proposing to cany lemons with us to 
 Sky, that he might be sure to have his lemonade. " Sir," said he, 
 " I do not wish to be thought that feeble man who cannot do with- 
 out anything. Sir, it is very bad manners to carry provisions to any 
 man's house, as if he coxxld not entertain you. To an inferior it is 
 oppressive, to a superior it is insolent." 
 
 Having taken the liberty this evening to remark^to Dr. Johnson 
 that he very often sat quite silent for a long time, even when in com- 
 pany with only a single friend, which I myself had sometimes sadly 
 experienced, he smiled and said, " It is true, sir. Tom Tyers," for 
 so he familiarly called our ingenious friend, who, since his death, has 
 paid a biographical tribute to his memory, " Tom Tyers described me 
 the best. He once said to me, ' Sir, you are like] a ghost ; you never 
 speak till you are spoken to.'"f 
 
 SATURDAY, AUGUST 21. 
 
 Neither the Rev. Mr. Nisbet, the Established minister, nor the 
 Rev. Mr. Spooner, the Episcopal minister, were in town. Before 
 breakfast we went and saw the town-hall, where is a good dancing- 
 room, and other rooms for tea-drinking. The appearance of the 
 town from it is very well ; but many of the houses are built with 
 their ends to the street, which looks awkward. When we came down 
 from it I met Mr. Gleig, a merchant here. He went with us to see 
 the English chapel. It is situated on a pretty dry spot, and there 
 is a fine walk to it. It is really an elegant building, both within and 
 without. The organ is adorned with green and gold. Dr. Johnson 
 gave a shilling extraordinary to the clerk, saying, " He belongs to 
 an honest Church." I put him in mind that Episcopals were but 
 dissenters here ; they were only tolerated. " Sir," said he, " we are 
 here as Christians in Turkey." He afterwards went into an apothe- 
 cary's shop, and ordered some medicine for himself, and wrote the 
 prescription in technical characters. The boy took him for a physician. 
 
 I doubted much which road to take, whether to go by the coast 
 or by Lawrence Kirk and Monboddo. I knew Lord Monboddo and 
 Dr. Johnson did not love each other ; yet I was unwilling not to visit 
 
 * Another Scotticism at instead of with. This is a very common error, yet David 
 Hume and Seattle include it in their lists of Scotticisms. " Scotch, to be angry at a 
 man ; Englith, to be angry with a man." Hume's Philosophical Works, vol. I. ED. 
 
 t This description of Dr. Johnson appears to have been borrowed from "Tom 
 Jones," book XI. chap. ii. " The other who, like a ghost, only wanted to be spoke to, 
 readily answered," &c. BOSWELL. 
 
 E
 
 SO JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 his lordship, and was also curious to see them together.* I men- 
 tioned my doubts to Dr. Johnson, who said he would go two miles 
 out of his way to see Lord Monboddo. I therefore sent Joseph for- 
 ward with the following note. 
 
 tlontrose, Aij\>!<t 21. 
 
 MY DEAR LORD, Thus far T am come with Mr. Samuel Johnson. We must be 
 at Aberdeen to-night. I know you do not admire him so much as I do ; but I cannot 
 be in this country without making you a bow at your old place, as I do not know if I 
 may again have an opportunity of seeing Monboddo. Besides, Mr. Johnson says he 
 would go two miles out of his way to see Lord Mouboddo. I have sent forward my 
 servant that we may know if your lordship be at home. 
 
 I am ever, my dear lord, 
 
 Most sincerely yours, 
 
 JAMES BOSWELL. 
 
 As we travelled onwards from Montrose we had the Grampian hills* 
 in our view, and some good land around us, but void of trees and 
 hedges. Dr. Johnson has said ludicrously, in his " Journey," that the 
 hedges were of stone ; for instead of the verdant thorn to refresh the 
 eye, we found the bare wall or dike intersecting the prospect. He 
 observed that it was wonderful to see a country so divested, so de- 
 nuded of trees. 
 
 We stopped at Lawrence Kirk, where our great grammarian, Ruddi- 
 nian, was once schoolmaster. We respectfully remembered that ex- 
 cellent man and eminent scholar, by whose labours a knowledge 
 of the Latin language will be preserved in Scotland, if it shall be 
 preserved at all. Lord Gardenstone, one of our judges, collected 
 money to raise a monument to him at this place, which I hope will 
 
 There were several points of similarity between them ; learning, clearness of head, 
 precision of speech, and a love of research on many subjects which people in general do 
 not investigate. Foote paid Lord Monboddo the compliment of saying, that he was " an 
 Elzevir edition of Johnson." It has been shrewdly observed that Foote must have meant 
 a diminutive, or pocket edition. BOSWELL. 
 
 [The Elzevir edition of the classics is of a diminutive, or pocket size, and Foote's 
 meaning was obvious enough. But it may be questioned whether, as a scholar or as a 
 member of society ever anxious to do good, Monboddo should be considered an Elzevir edi- 
 t'.on of Johnson. The eccentricities of the learned lord arose mostly out of Ids classical 
 predilections. He gave suppers in imitation of the ancients, more successful than the 
 ludicrous satire in " Peregrine Pickle ;" he strewed his table and garlanded "his wine- 
 Casks with roses; he anointed himself after coming from the bath ; and he never would 
 enter a carriage, because such effeminate conveyances were.not in common u-c among 
 the ancients, and because he considered it to be degrading to the dignity of human na- 
 ture to be dragged at the tail of a horse instead of mounting his back. Hence his 
 journeys to London were all equestrian, and he continued them beyond the age of 
 eighty. The death of the old judge's daughter, so eminent for her beauty and her de- 
 voted ness to her father, shook his stoical philosophy. A relation living in his house at 
 the time covered the portrait of Miss Burnet with a cloth. " Right," said the old judge, 
 stifling his emotion, "liight; and now let us turn up Herodotus !" Lord Monboddo waa 
 born in 1714, raised to the bench in 1767, and died in 1799. ED.]
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 51 
 
 be well executed.* I know my father gave five guineas towards .t. 
 Lord Gardenstone is the proprietor of Lawrence Kirk, and has en- 
 couraged the building of a manufacturing village, of which he is 
 exceedingly fond, and has written a pamphlet upon it, as if he had 
 founded Thebes; in which, however, there are many useful precepts 
 strongly expressed. The village seemed to be irregularly built, some 
 of the houses being ol clay, some of brick, and some of brick and 
 stone. Dr. Johnson observed they thatched well here.f 
 
 I was a little acquainted with Mr. Forbes, the minister of the 
 parish. I sent to inform him that a gentleman desired to see him. 
 He returned for answer " that he would not come to a stranger.'' 
 I then gave my name, and he came. I remonstrated to him for not 
 Qoming to a stranger ; and by presenting him to Dr. Johnson proved 
 to him what a stranger might sometimes be. His Bible inculcates, 
 Be not forgetful to entertain strangers, and mentions the same 
 motive. He defended himself by saying, " He had once come to 
 a stranger who sent for him, and he found him ' a little worth 
 person !'"J 
 
 Dr. Johnson insisted on stopping at the inn, as I told him that 
 Lord Gardenstone had furnished it with a collection of books, that 
 
 * This design does not appear to have been carried into execution ; but in 1806 a rela- 
 tive of the great grammarian, Dr. William Ruddiman, erected a tablet to his memory in 
 the Greyfriars Church, Edinburgh. The inscription states that the " celebrated scholar 
 and worthy man" was keeper of the Advocates' Library for nearly fifty years ; was born 
 October 1674, within three miles of the town of Banff (at the farm of llaggel, parish of 
 Boyndie), and died at Edinburgh 19th January, 1757, in his eighty-third year. He was 
 parochial schoolmaster of Lawrence Kirk from 1695 to 1700. It is related of this 
 accomplished and indefatigable scholar that at the age of sixteen he proceeded on foot 
 from his father's house to Aberdeen to compete for the annual prize given by King's 
 College for proficiency in classical literature. Doubtful of the issue, he had not informed 
 his parents of his intention, but his sister, to whom he had confided the secret, gave him a 
 guinea to defray his charges. He was robbed of his money by the way, being overtaken 
 by a band of gypsies, but the young enthusiast was not to be daunted ; he made out the 
 journey, carried off the prize or scholarship, and was thus enabled to prosecute his 
 studies. ED. 
 
 t Francis Garden, Lord Gardenstone, was a man of learning and accomplishments. 
 Succeeding to the patrimonial estate of Troup in Banffshire in 1785, he gave up his seat 
 on the bench and travelled oil the Continent. The result of his tour was a work in two 
 volumes, entitled " Travelling Memorandums." The burgh of Lawrence Kirk, founded 
 by Lord Gardenstone, contained 500 inhabitants before his death in 1793; the population 
 is now about 1,500. The learned lord had built and cndowedjan Episcopal chapel in his 
 burgh, a circumstance which should have conciliated the favour of Johnson and Boswell. 
 He was also, as a Scottish judge, on the same side as Boswell in the Douglas cause. 
 His lordship, however, was a Whig in politics, which may account for the coldness of 
 the above notice. Dr. Beattie, author of " The Minstrel," was a native of the parish of 
 Lawrence Kirk. ED. 
 
 t This punctilious minister (who must have been grievously annoyed at being thus 
 publicly gibbeted by Boswell) died at the Manse of Lawrence Kirk April 27th, 1795, 
 having been thirty-four years incumbent there. ED. 
 
 E 2
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 travellers might have entertainment for the mind as well as the body 
 He praised the design, but wished there had been more books, and 
 those better chosen. 
 
 About a mile from Monboddo, where you turn off the road, Joseph 
 was waiting to tell us my lord expected us to dinner. We drove over 
 a wild moor. It rained, and the scene was somewhat dreary. Dr. 
 Johnson repeated, with solemn emphasis, Macbeth's speech on meet- 
 ing the witches. As we travelled on he told me, " Sir, you got into 
 our club by doing what a man can do.* Several of the members 
 wished to keep you out. Burke told me he doubted if you were fit 
 for it ; but now you are in none of them are sorry. Burke says that 
 you have so much good-humour naturally, it is scarce a virtue." BOS- 
 WELL : " They were afraid of you, sir, as it was you who proposed me." 
 JOHNSON : " Sir, they knew that if they refused you they'd probably 
 never have got in another. I'd have kept them all out. Beauclerk 
 was very earnest for you." BOSWELL : " Beauclerk has a keenness 
 of mind which is very uncommon." JOHNSON : " Yes, sir ; and every- 
 thing comes from him so easily. It appears to me that I labour 
 when I say a good thing." BOSWELL : " You are loud, sir ; but it is 
 not an effort of mind." 
 
 Monboddo is a wretched 
 place, wild and naked, with a 
 poor old house ; though, if I 
 recollect right, there are two 
 turrets which mark an old 
 baron's residence.f Lord Mon- 
 boddo received us at his gate 
 most courteously ; pointed to 
 the Douglas arms upon his 
 house, and told us that his great- 
 grandmother was of that family. 
 " In such houses," said he, " our 
 ancestors lived, who were better 
 men than we." " No, no, my 
 lord," said Dr. Johnson, " we 
 are as strong as they, and a 
 great deal wiser." This was an 
 assault upon one of Lord Mon- 
 
 * This, I find, is considered as obscure. I suppose Dr. Johnson meant, that I 
 assiduously and earnestly recommended myself to some of the members, as in a canvass 
 for an election into Parliament. BOSWELL. 
 
 t The property has since been much improved and now boasts a thriving plantation 
 of wood. It should be recollected that the estate was small, producing only about 300!. 
 
 LORD MONBODDO.
 
 TO THE HEBIUDE8. 53 
 
 boddo's capital dogmas, and I was afraid there would have been a 
 violent altercation in the very close, before we got into the house. But 
 his lordship is distinguished not only for ancient metaphysics, but for 
 ancient politesse, " la vleille cour," and he made no reply. 
 
 His lordship was dressed in a rustic suit, and wore a little round 
 hat; he told us we now saw lum as Fanner Burnet, and we should 
 have his family dinner, a farmer's dinner. He said, " I should not 
 have forgiven Mr. Boswell had he not brought you here, Dr. Johnson." 
 He produced a very long stalk of corn, as a specimen of his crop, and 
 said, " You see here the latas segetes :" he added that Virgil seemed 
 to be as enthusiastic a farmer as he, and was certainly a practical 
 one. JOHNSON: "It does not always follow, my lord, that a man who 
 has written a good poem on an art has practised it. Philip Miller 
 told me, that in Philips's ' Cyder,' a poem, all the precepts were 
 just, and indeed better than in books written for the purpose of 
 instructing; yet Philips had never made cyder." 
 
 I started the subject of emigration. JOHNSON : " To a man of 
 mere animal life you can urge no argument against going to America, 
 but that it will be some time before he will get the earth to produce. 
 But a man of any intellectual enjoyment will not easily go and im- 
 merse himself and hia posterity for ages in barbarism." 
 
 He and my lord spoke highly of Homer. JOHNSON : " He had all 
 the learning of his age. The sliield of Achilles shows a nation in 
 war, a nation in peace; harvest-sport, nay, stealing."* MONBODDO: 
 " Ay, and what we (looking to me) woivkl call a Parliament-house 
 scene ; a cause pleaded." JOHNSON : " That is part of the life of 
 a nation in peace. And there are in Homer such characters of 
 heroes, and combinations of qualities of heroes, that the united powers 
 of mankind ever since have not produced any but what are to be found 
 there." MONBODDO : " Yet no character is described." JOHNSON : 
 " No ; they all develope themselves. Agamemnon is always a gentle- 
 man-like character ; he has always BcwXixoy n. That the ancients 
 held so, is plain from this; that Euripides, in his Hecuba, makes 
 
 a-yeaf ; yet Lord Monboddo was a most liberal landlord, and one of the first to set an 
 example of agricultural improvement. ED. 
 
 My note of this is much too short. Brecis esse laboro, obscuna fio. Yet as I have 
 reiolved that the rery Journal which Dr. Johnson read shall be presented to the public, 
 I will not expand the text in any considerable degree, though I may occasionally supply 
 a word to complete the sense, as I fill up the blanks of abbreviation in the writing ; nei- 
 ther of which can be said to change the genuine Journal. One of the best critics of 
 our age conjectures that the imperfect passage above was probably as follows : " In his 
 book we have an accurate display of a nation in war, and a nation in peace; the peasant 
 is delineated as truly as the general ; nay, even harrest-sport and the modes of ancient 
 theft are described." BOSWELL.
 
 54 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 him the person to interpose."* MONBODDO: " The history of manners 
 is the most valuable. I never set a high value on any other history." 
 JOHNSON : " Nor I; and therefore I esteem biography, as giving us 
 what comes near to ourselves, what we can turn to use." BOSWELL : 
 " But in the course of general history we find manners. In wars, 
 we see the dispositions of people, their degrees of humanity, and 
 other particulars." JOHNSON: "Yes; but then you must take all 
 the facts to get this; and it is but a little you get." MONBODDO: " And 
 it is that little which makes history valuable." Bravo! thought I; 
 they agree like two brothers. MONBODDO: "I am sorry, Dr. John- 
 son, you were not longer at Edinburgh to receive the homage of our 
 men of learning." JOHNSON: " My lord, I received great respect and 
 great kindness." BOSWELL: " He goes back to Edinburgh after our 
 tour." We talked of the decrease of learning in Scotland, and of the 
 " Muses' Welcome." JOHNSON : " Learning is much decreased in 
 England, in my remembrance." MONBODDO: " You, sir, have lived 
 to see its decrease in England, I its extinction in Scotland." How- 
 ever, I brought him to confess that the High School of Edinburgh 
 did well. JOHNSON: "Learning has decreased in England, because 
 learning will not do so much for a man as formerly. There are other 
 ways of getting preferment. Few bishops are now made for their 
 learning. To be a bishop, a man must be learned in a learned age 
 factious in a factious age ; but always of eminence. Warburton 
 is an exception, though his learning alone did not raise him. He 
 was first an antagonist to Pope, and helped Theobald to publish his 
 Shakspeare; but, seeing Pope the rising man, when Crousaz attacked 
 his ' Essay on Man,' for some faults which it has, and some which it 
 has not, Warburton defended it in the JReview of that time. This 
 brought him acquainted with Pope, and he gained his friendship 
 Pope introduced him to Allen; Allen married him to his niece; 
 so, by Allen's interest and his own, he was made a bishop. But then 
 his learning was the sine qua non. He knew how to make the most 
 of it; but I do not find by any dishonest means." MONBODDO : " He 
 is a great man." JOHNSON: "Yes, he has great knowledge, great 
 power of mind. Hardly any man brings greater variety of learning to 
 bear upon his point." MONBODDO : " He is one of the greatest lights 
 of your Church." JOHNSON : " Why, we are not so sure of his being 
 
 * Dr. Johnson modestly said he had not read Homer so much as lie wished he had 
 done. But this conversation shows how well he was acquainted with the Mcconian 
 bard, and he has shown it still more in his criticism upon Pope's Homer, in his Life 
 
 maintained the superiority of Homer. BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 55 
 
 very friendly to us. He blazes, if you will, but that is not always the 
 steadiest light. Lowth is another bishop who has risen by his learn- 
 ing." 
 
 Dr. Johnson examined young Arthur, Lord Monboddo's son, in 
 Latin. He answered very well, upon which he said, with compla- 
 cency, " Get you gone ! When King James comes back, 1 - you shall 
 be in the 'Muses' Welcome!'" My lord and Dr. Johnson disputed 
 a little, whether the savage or the London shopkeeper had the best 
 existence ; his lordship, as usual, preferring the sa.vage. My lord was 
 extremely hospitable, and I saw both Dr. Johnson and him liking each 
 other better every hour. 
 
 Dr. .Johnson having retired for a short time, his lordship spoke of 
 his conversation as I could have wished. Dr. Johnson had said, 
 " I have done greater feats with my knife than this;" though he had 
 eaten a very hearty dinner. My lord, who affects or believes he 
 follows an abstemious system, seemed struck with Dr. Johnson's 
 manner of living. I had a particular satisfaction in being under the 
 roof of Monboddo, my lord being my father's old friend, and having 
 been always very good to me. We were cordial together. He asked 
 Dr. Johnson and me to stay all night. When I said we must be at 
 Aberdeen, lie replied, " Well, I am like the Romans: I shall say to 
 you, ' Happy to come happy to depart !' " He thanked Dr. John- 
 son for his visit. JOHNSON : " I little thought, when I had the honour 
 to meet your lordship in London, that I should see you at Monboddo." 
 After dinner, as the ladies were going away, Dr. Johnson would stand 
 up. He insisted that politeness was of great consequence in society. 
 " It is," said he, " fictitious benevolence. It supplies the place of 
 it amongst those who see each other only in public, or but little. 
 Depend upon it, the want of it never fails to produce something dis- 
 agreeable to one or other. I have always applied to good breeding 
 what Addison in his " Cato" says of honour: 
 
 " ' Honour's a sacred tie ; the law of kings ; 
 
 The noble mind's distinguishing perfection, 
 
 That aids and strengthens Virtue where it meets her, 
 
 And imitates her actions where she is not.' " 
 
 When lie took up his large oak stick, he said, " My lord, 
 that's Homeric ;" thus pleasantly alluding to his lordship's favourite 
 writer. 
 
 Gory, my lord's black servant, was sent as our guide, to conduct 
 us to the lii^h road. The circumstance of each of them having a 
 
 I find some doubt .hag been entertained concerning Dr. Johnson's meaning here. 
 It if to be supposed that he meant, "when a king shall again be entertained in 
 Scotland." Bos WELL.
 
 56 
 
 black servant was another point of similarity between Johnson and 
 Monboddo. I observed how curious it was to see an African in the 
 North of Scotland, with little or no difference of manners from those 
 of the natives. Dr. Johnson laughed to see Gory and Joseph riding 
 together most cordially. " Those two fellows," said he, " one from 
 Africa, the other from Bohemia, seem quite at home." He was much 
 pleased with Lord Monboddo to-day. He said, he would have par- 
 doned him for a few paradoxes when he found he had so much 
 that was good : but that, from his appearance in London, he thought 
 him all paradox ; which would not do. He observed, that his lord- 
 ship had talked no paradoxes to-day. " And as to the savage and 
 the London shopkeeper," said he, " I don't know but I might have 
 taken the side of the savage equally, had anybody else taken, the side 
 of the shopkeeper." He had said to my lord, in opposition to the 
 value of the savage's courage, that it was owing to his limited power 
 of thinking; and repeated Pope's verses, in which " Macedonia's mad- 
 man" is introduced, and the conclusion is, 
 
 " Yet ne'er looks forward farther than his nose." 
 
 I objected to the last phrase, as being low. JOHNSON: "Sir, it is 
 intended to be low : it is satire. The expression is debased, to de- 
 base the character." 
 
 When Gory was about to part from us, Dr. Johnson called to 
 him, "Mr. Gory, give me leave to ask you a question; are you 
 baptised?" Gory told him he was, and confirmed by the Bishop of 
 Durham. He then gave him a shilling. 
 
 We had tedious driving this afternoon, and were somewhat 
 drowsy. Last night I was afraid Dr. Johnson was beginning to faint 
 in his resolution ; for he said, " If we must ride much, we shall 
 not go ; and there's an end on't." To-day, when he talked of Sky* 
 with spirit, I said, " Why, sir, you seemed to me to despond yester- 
 day. You are a delicate Londoner ; you are a maccaroni ; you can't 
 ride." JOHNSON : " Sir, I shall ride better than you. I was only 
 afraid I should not find a horse able to carry me." I hoped then 
 there would be no fear of getting through our wild Tour. 
 
 We came to Aberdeen at half an hour past eleven . The New 
 Inn, we were told, was full. This was comfortless. The waiter, 
 however, asked if one of our names was Boswell, and brought me a 
 letter left at the inn : it was from Mr. Thrale, inclosing one to Dr. 
 Johnson. Finding who I was, we were told they would contrive to 
 
 * The name of the island is now invariably spelt Skye ; but in this and other instances 
 the orthography of the author, which was the practice of his times , is retained. We 
 have, however, corrected and made uniform the spelling 1 of the names of individuals, in 
 which Boswell was careless. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 57 
 
 lodge us by putting us for a night into a room with two beds. The 
 waiter said to me, in the broad strong Aberdeenshire dialect, " I 
 thought I knew you, by your likeness to your father." My father 
 puts up at the New Inn when on his circuit. Little was said to-night. 
 I was to sleep in a little press-bed in Dr. Johnson's room. I had it 
 wheeled out into the dining-room, and there I lay very well. 
 
 SUNDAY, AUGUST 22; 
 
 I sent a message to Professor Thomas Gordon, who came and 
 breakfasted with us. He had secured seats for us at the English 
 chapel. We found a respectable congregation, and an admirable 
 organ, well played by Mr. Tait. 
 
 We walked down to the shore : Dr. Johnson laughed to hear 
 that Cromwell's soldiers taught the Aberdeen people to make shoes 
 and stockings, and to plant cabbages. He asked, if weaving the 
 plaids was ever a domestic art in the Highlands, like spinning or 
 knitting. They could not inform him here. But he conjectured 
 probably, that where people lived so remote from each other, it was 
 likely to be a domestic art ; as we see it was among the ancients, 
 from Penelope.* I was sensible to-day, to an extraordinary degree, 
 of Dr. Johnson's excellent English pronunciation. I cannot account 
 for its striking me more now than any other day, but it was as if new 
 to me; and I listened to every sentence which he spoke as to a 
 musical composition. Professor Gordon gave him an account of the 
 plan of education in his college. Dr. Johnson said, it was similar 
 to that at Oxford. Waller the poet's great-grandson was studying 
 
 * The finely variegated plaids were no doubt made by skilled weavers. The women, 
 according to Pennant, spun their husbands' clothes, and knitted the stockings. They 
 had several native dyes. The juice of the tops of heath supplied them with a yellow, 
 the roots of the white water-lily with a brown, those of the yellow water-iris with a 
 black, and the Galium rertim, the rue of the islanders, with a red not inferior to madder. 
 Martin describes the islanders as particular about the colours and patterns of their 
 plaids. "For this (reason," he says, " the women are at great pains, first to give an 
 exact pattern of the plaid upon a piece of wood, having the number of every thread of 
 the stripe upon it." He adds an observation which seems to prove that the clan pat- 
 terns were then recognised : " Every isle differs from each other in their fancy of 
 making plaids, as to the stripes in breadth and colours. This humour is as different 
 through the mainland of the Highlands, in so far that they who have seen those places 
 are able at the first view of a man's plaid to guess the place of his residence." (" Mar- 
 tin's Description of the Western Islands," London, 1703.) The above remark about 
 Cromwell and the city of Aberdeen is highly absurd. That a collegiate and trading 
 town of eight or ,nine thousand inhabitants, which Aberdeen was at the time of Crom- 
 well, should be without shoemakers is too ridiculous for serious refutation. In fact, 
 the ihoemakers were an important craft in that city, taking part as a body in processions 
 and masques so early as 1442. Cabbages, salad, &c., were introduced into England 
 from the Netherlands about 1520 or 1530, and we may conclude that the citizens of Aber- 
 deen, possessing such an array of churchmen and professors, would not be a century 
 behind their English neighbours. ED.
 
 58 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 here. Dr. Johnson wondered that a man should send his son so far 
 oft', when there were so many good schools in England. He said, 
 "At a great school there is all the splendour and illumination 
 of many minds; the radiance of all j is concentrated in each, or 
 at least reflected upon each. But we must own that neither a dull 
 boy, nor an idle boy, will do so well at a great school as at a 
 private one. For at a great school there are always boys enough to 
 do well easily, who are sufficient to keep up the credit of the school ; 
 and after whipping being tried to no purpose, the dull or idle boys are 
 left at the end of a class, having the appearance of going through the 
 course, but learning nothing at all. Such boys may do good at 
 a private school, where constant attention is paid to them, and they 
 are watched. So that the question of public or private education 
 is not properly a general one ; but whether one or the other is best 
 for my son." 
 
 We were told the present Mr. Waller was a plain country gentle- 
 man, and his son would be such another. I observed, a family could 
 not expect a poet but in a hundred generations. "Nay," said Dr. John- 
 son, " not one family in a hundred can expect a poet in a hundred 
 generations." He then repeated Dryden's celebrated lines, 
 
 " Three poets in three distant ages born, 
 Greece, Italy, and England did adorn : 
 The first in loftiness of thought surpassed ; 
 The next in majesty ; in botli the last. 
 The force of Nature could no further go, 
 To make a third she joined the other two." 
 
 and a part of a Latin translation of it done at Oxford,* be did not 
 then say by whom. 
 
 He received a card from Sir Alexander Gordon, who had been his 
 acquaintance twenty years ago in London, and who, "if forgiven for 
 not answering a line from him," would come in the afternoon. Dr. 
 Johnson rejoiced to hear of him, and begged he would come and dine 
 with us. I was much pleased to see the kindness with which Dr. 
 Johnson received his old friend Sir Alexander ; a gentleman of good 
 family, Lismore, but who had not the estate. The King's College here 
 made him Professor of Medicine, which affords him a decent subsis- 
 
 * London, 2nd May, 1778. Dr. Johnson acknowledged that he was himself the author 
 of the translation above alluded to, and dictated it to me as follows : 
 Qnos laudet vates Grains Komanus et Anglus 
 
 Tres tria temporibus secla dedere suis. 
 Sublime ingenium Graius ; Romanus habebat 
 
 Carmen grande sonans ; Anglus utrumque tulit. 
 Nil majus Natura capit; clarnre priores 
 Qua; potuere duos tertius unus habet.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. *59 
 
 tence. 1 le told us that the value of the stockings exported from Aber- 
 deen wsis, in peace, a hundred thousand pounds; and amounted, in 
 time of war, to one hundred and seventy thousand pounds. Dr. John- 
 son asked what made the difference. Here we had a proof of the com- 
 parative sagacity of the two professors. Sir Alexander answered, 
 " Because there is more occasion for them in war." Professor Thomas 
 Gordon answered, " Because the Germans, who are our great rivals 
 in the manufacture of stockings, are otherwise employed in time of 
 war." JOHNSON : " Sir, you have given a very good solution."* 
 
 At dinner, Dr. Johnson ate several platefuls of Scotch broth, 
 with barley and peas in it, and seemed very fond of the dish. I said, 
 ''You in-ver ate it before." JOHNSON: "No, sir; but I don't care 
 how soon I eat it again." My cousin, Miss Dallas, formerly of In- 
 verness, was married to Mr. Riddoch, one of the ministers of the 
 English chapel here. He was ill, and confined to his room ; but she 
 sent us a kind invitation to tea, which we all accepted. She was the 
 same lively, sensible, cheerful woman as ever. Dr. Johnson here 
 threw out some jokes against Scotland. He said, " You go first to 
 Aberdeen ; then to Enbru (the Scottish pronunciation of Edinburgh) ; 
 then to Newcastle, to be polished by the colliers ; then to York; then 
 to London." And he laid hold of a little girl, Stuart Dallas, niece to 
 Mi's. Itiddoch, and representing himself as a giant, said he would 
 take her with him, telling her in a hollow voice that he lived in a 
 cave, and had a bed in the rock, and she should have a little bed cut 
 opposite to it. 
 
 Ho thus treated the point as to prescription of murder in Scot- 
 land. " A jury in England would make allowance for deficiencies of 
 evideiK-r. on account of lapse of time; but a general rule that a crime 
 should not be punished, or tried for the purpose of punishment, after 
 twenty years, is bad. It is cant to talk of the king's advocate delay- 
 ing a prosecution from malice. How unlikely is it the king's advocate 
 should have malice against persons who commit murder, or should 
 even know them at all! If the son of the murdered man should 
 kill the murderer, who got off merely by prescription, I would help 
 him t<> make his escape, though were I upon his jury I would not 
 acquit him. I would not advise him to commit such an act; on the 
 
 * Professor Thomas Gordon held his chair for the long period of sixty-one yeari. He 
 died March llth, 1797, aged eighty-three. Sir Alexander Gordon was appointed assistant 
 nnd euccrssor to Dr. John Gregory- in 1766. Dr. Gregory resigned two years afterwards, 
 and Sir A. Gordon was duly admitted as Professor of Medicine. He resigned his chair 
 March I'.Hh, 1782, and died six days afterwards. Sir Alexander was an amiable, gentle- 
 manly man. He was very fond of horticulture, and in the grounds of the college are 
 traces of a pond which he had constructed and filled with rare aquatic plants that he 
 had brought from abroad. ED.
 
 &f JOOBNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 contrary, I would bid him submit to the determination of society, 
 because a man is bound to submit to the inconveniences of it, as he 
 enjoys the good ; but the young man, though politically wrong, would 
 not be morally wrong. He would have to say, ' Here I am amongst 
 barbarians, who not only refuse to do justice, but encourage the 
 greatest of all crimes. I am therefore in a state of nature ; for so far 
 as there is no law, it is a state of nature ; and consequently, upon 
 the eternal and immutable law of justice, which requires that he 
 who sheds man's blood should have his blood shed, I will stab the 
 murderer of my father.' " 
 
 We went to our inn and sat quietly. Dr. Johnson borrowed at 
 Mr. Kiddoch's a volume of Massillon's Discourses on the Psalms ; 
 but I found he read little in it. Ogden, too, he sometimes took up 
 and glanced at ; but threw it down again. I then entered upon reli- 
 gious conversation. Never did I see him in a better frame ; calm, 
 gentle, wise, holy. I said, " Would not the same objection hold against 
 the Trinity as against Transubstantiation ?" " Yes," said he, " if you 
 take three and one in the same sense If you do so, to be sure you 
 cannot believe it ; but the three Persons in the Godhead are Three in 
 one sense, and One in another. We cannot tell how, and that is the 
 mystery !" 
 
 I spoke of the satisfaction of Christ. He said his notion was that 
 it did not atone for the sins^of the world ; but, by satisfying divine 
 justice, by showing that no less than the Son of God suffered for 
 sin, it showed to men and innumerable created beings the heinous- 
 ness of it, and therefore rendered it unnecessary for divine justice to 
 be exercised against sinners, as it otherwise must have been ; that 
 in this way it might operate even in favour of those who had never 
 heard of it. As to those who did hear of it, the effect it should pro- 
 duce would be repentance and piety, by impressing upon the mind a 
 just notion of sin : that original sin was the propensity to evil, which 
 no doubt was occasioned by the fall. He presented this solemn sub- 
 ject in a new light to me,* and rendered much more rational and 
 clear the doctrines of what our Saviour has done for us, as it removed 
 the notion of imputed righteousness in co-operating, whereas, by this 
 view, Christ has done all already that he had to do, or is ever to do, for 
 mankind, by making his great satisfaction ; the consequences of which 
 
 * My worthy, intelligent, and candid friend, Dr. Kippis, informs me that several 
 divines have thus explained the mediation of our Saviour. What Dr. Johnson now 
 delivered was but a temporary opinion ; for he afterwards was fully convinced of the 
 propitiatory sacrifice, as I shall show at large in my future work, " The Life of Samuel 
 Johnson, LL.D." BOSWELL. 
 
 [Dr. Kippis was one of the pupils of Dr. Doddridge.~He was an indefatigable lite- 
 rary labourer, chiefly in biography. He died in 1795, aged seventy. ED.]
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 61 
 
 will affect each individual according to the particular conduct of each. 
 I would illustrate this by saying that Christ's satisfaction resembles a 
 sun placed to show light to men, so that it depends upon themselves 
 whether they will walk the right way or not, which they could not 
 have done without that sun, " the Sun of righteousness." There is, 
 however, more in it than merely giving light " a light to lighten 
 the Gentiles ;" for we are told there " is healing under his wings." Dr. 
 Johnson saidjio me, " Richard Baxter commends a treatise by Gro- 
 tius, ' De Satisfactione Christi.' I have never read it, but I intend to 
 read it, and you may read it." I remarked, upon the principle now 
 laid down we might explain the difficult and seemingly hard text, 
 " They that believe shall be saved, and they that believe not shall be 
 damned." They that believe shall have such an impression made 
 tipon their minds as will make them act so that they may be accepted 
 by God. 
 
 We talked of one of our friends taking ill, for a length of time, a 
 hasty expi'ession of Dr. Johnson's to him, on his attempting to pro- 
 secute a subject that had a reference to religion beyond the bounds 
 within which the Doctor thought such topics should be confined in a 
 mixed company. JOHNSON : " What is to become of society, if a 
 friendship of twenty years is to be broken off for such a cause ?" As 
 Bacon* says, 
 
 " Who, then, to frail mortality shall trust, 
 But limns the water, or but writes in dust." 
 
 I said he should write expressly in support of Christianity ; for 
 that, although a reverence for it shines through his works in several 
 places, that is not enough. " You know," said I, " what Grotius has 
 done, and what Addison has done. You should do also." He replied, 
 " I hope I shall." 
 
 MONDAY, AUGUST 23. 
 
 Principal Campbell,! Sir Alexander Gordon, Professor Gordon, 
 and Professor Boss} visited us in the morning, as did Dr. Gerard,, 
 who had come six miles from the country on purpose. We went an<i. 
 
 * The Rev. Dr. Phannel Bacon, a now neglected poet, author of "The Artificial 
 Kite," 1719, a series of dramatic pieces, collected and published in 1757 under the title 
 of " Humorous Ethics," and various other productions. He was rector of Balden, in 
 Oxfordshire, and vicar of Bramber, in Sussex. He died January 10, 1783, aged eighty- 
 three. ED. 
 
 t The Rev. Dr. George Campbell, author of " A Dissertation on Miracles," " The 
 Philosophy of Rhetoric," and other works. He died April 6th, 1796. Campbell was the 
 Paley of Scotland ; a man of great and.various talents, who did eminent sen-ice to the cause 
 of Christian truth. ED. 
 
 i This gentleman died in 1777. His death was occasioned by swallowing a spider 
 in a glass of wine '." Scots' Magazine." ED.
 
 62 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 saw the Marischal College,* and at one o'clock we waited on the ma- 
 gistrates in the town-hall, as they had invited us in order to present 
 Dr. Johnson with the freedom of the town, which Provost -lopp did 
 with a very good grace. Dr. Johnson was much pleased with this 
 mark of attention, and received it very politely.f There was a 
 pretty numerous company assembled. It was striking to hear all of 
 them drinking "Dr. Johnson! Dr. Johnson!" in the town-hall of 
 Aberdeen, and then to see him with his burgess-ticket, or diploma,* 
 in his hat, which he wore as he walked along the street, affording 
 to the usual custom. It gave me great satisfaction to observe the 
 regard, and indeed fondness too, which everybody here had tor my 
 father. 
 
 While Sir Alexander Gordon conducted Dr. Johnson to old Aber 
 deen, Professor Gordon and I called on Mr. Riddoch, whom I found 
 to be a grave, worthy clergyman. He observed that, whatever might 
 be said of Dr. Johnson while he was alive, he would, after lie was 
 dead, be looked upon by the world with regard and astonishment 
 on account of his Dictionary. 
 
 Professor Gordon and I walked over to the Old College, which 
 Dr. Johnson had seen by this time. I stepped into the chapel, and 
 looked at the tomb of the founder, Archbishop [Bishop] Elpliinston, 
 of whom I shall have occasion to write in my History of J times IV. 
 of Scotland, the patron of my family. 
 
 * Dr. Beattie was so kindly entertained in England, that he had not y?t returned 
 home. BOSWELL. 
 
 t He does not appear to have made a speech on the occasion, as is customary in- 
 acknowledgment of such honours. The omission is worthy of notice in reference to 
 the question as to Johnson's oratorical powers. See Boswell's "Life," 1771. Johnson 
 confessed to Lord Stowell that he had several times tried to speak in th<: Society of 
 Arts and Sciences, but " had found he could not get on." ED. 
 
 i Dr. Johnson's burgess-ticket was in these words: "AberdonijE, vigesimo trrtio die 
 mensis Augusti, anno Domini millesimo septingentesimo septuagesimo tertio, in pre- 
 sentia honorabilium virorum, Jacobi Jopp, armigeri, praepositi, Adami Dutt', Oulielmi 
 Young, Georgii Marr, etGulielmi Forbes, Balivorum, Gulielmi Bainie Decani ^uildos.et 
 Joannis Nicoll Thesaurarii dtcti burgi. Quo die vir generosus et doctrina clarus. Samuel 
 Johnson, I.L.I)., receptus et admissus fuit in municipes et fratres guildae pr-faii burgi 
 de Aberdeen. In deditissimi amoris et affectus ac eximia? observantia; tesseram. quibus 
 dicti Magistratus eum amplectuntur. Extractum per me, 
 
 BOSWELL.] "ALEX. CARSEUIE." 
 
 I This was one of Boswell's many broken resolutions and ineffectual wish PS ; lie never 
 wrote a history of James IV. On examination, he was probably not proud of the sort 
 of patronage bestowed on the founder of his family. From the treasurer's book- in the 
 reign of James IV. it appears that Thomas Boswell was connected with the train of that 
 sovereign; Mr Pitcairn conjectures as a minstrel. In one entry he is found employed 
 in paying " the wife of the king's inns," and " the boy that ran the king's horse," 18s. 
 Another entry shows that 56s. were paid by the Court for " twa hidis to be .jakkis to 
 Thomas Boswell and Walter Trumbull" against the raid of Eskadale. A sum of 28s. 
 was also paid for " dancing-gear" to Thomas Boswell and Pate Sinclair; and on the 31st
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 63 
 
 We dined at Sir Alexander Gordon's. The Provost, Professor lloss, 
 Professor Duubar, Professor Thomas Gordon, were there After 
 dinner came in Dr. Gerard, Professor Leslie, Professor Macleod. 
 We had little or no conversation in the morning ; now we were but 
 barren. The professors seemed afraid to speak. 
 
 Dr. Gerard told us that an eminent printer was very intimate 
 with Warburton. JOHNSON : " Why, sir, lie has printed some of his 
 works, and perhaps bought the property of some of them. The inti- 
 macy is such as one of the professors here may have with one of the 
 carpenters who is repairing the college." 1 - ' But" said Gerard, " I 
 saw a letter from him to this printer, in which he says that the one- 
 half of the clergy of the Church of Scotland are fanatics, and the 
 other half infidels." JOHNSON : " Warburton has accustomed him- 
 self to write letters just as he speaks, without thinking any more 
 of what he throws out. When I read Warburton first, and observed 
 his force and his contempt of mankind, I thought he had driven 
 the world before him ; but I soon found that was not the case ; for 
 Warburton, by extending his abuse, rendered it ineffectual." 
 
 He told me, when we were by ourselves, that he thought it very 
 wrong in the printer to show Warburton's letter, as it was raising 
 a body of enemies against him. He thought it foolish in Warburton 
 to write so to the printer; and added, "Sir, the worst way of being 
 intimate is by scribbling." He called Warburton's " Doctrine of 
 Grace" a poor performance, and so he said was Wesley's Answer. 
 Warburton, he observed, had laid himself very open. In parti 
 cular, he was weak enough to say, that, in some disorders of the 
 imagination, people had spoken with tongues, had spoken languages 
 which they never knew before ; a tiling as absurd as to say that 
 in some disorders of the imagination people had been known to fly. 
 
 I talked of the difference of genius, to try if I could engage Gerard 
 in a disquisition with Dr. Johnson; but I did not succeed.f I men- 
 
 of December, 1505, the treasurer charges " to thirty dozen of bells for dancers, delivered to 
 Thomas Boswell, 4 10s." About this time, however, the Court favourite received a grant 
 of the lands of Auchinleck, and other possessions in Ayrshire. He accompanied his royal 
 master in his invasion of England, in 1513, and, as his descendant was proud to state, fell 
 with him at Floddeti. ED. 
 
 * Mr. Strahan, the king's printer, was the party alluded to, and this reference to him, 
 though the name was concealed, gave great offence to his friends. .Mr. Strahan was then 
 a Member of Parliament, " and his merit," says Dr. Beattie, " entitled him to be on a 
 footing of intimacy with any bishop or any British subject." He had conferred sub- 
 stantial favours on Johnson himself, who really esteemed and respected him, notwith- 
 standing the above splenetic remark. See Boswell's " Life of Johnson," under date 1771. 
 En. 
 
 + Dr. Gerard, wrote an "Essay on Genius," and other metaphysical and philoso- 
 phical treatises. He died February 22nd, 1795. ED.
 
 64 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 tioned as a curious fact, that Locke had written verses. JOHNSON : 
 " I know of none, sir, but a kind of exercise prefixed to Dr. Syden- 
 ham's Works, in which he has some conceits about the dropsy, in 
 which water and burning are united, and how Dr. Sydenham removed 
 fire by drawing off water, contrary to the usual practice, which is 
 to extinguish fire by bringing water upon it. I am not sure that there 
 is a word of all this ; but it is such kind of talk."* 
 
 * All this, as Dr. Johnson suspected at the time, was the immediate invention of his 
 own lively imagination ; for there is not one word of it in Mr. Locke's complimentary 
 performance. My readers will, I have no doubt, like to be satisfied by comparing them, 
 and at any rate it may entertain them to read verses composed by our great metaphy- 
 sician, when a Bachelor in Physic. 
 
 AUCTORI, IN TRACTATUM EJUS DE FEBRIBUS. 
 Febriles sestus victumque ardoribus orbem 
 
 Flevit non tantis par Medicina malis. 
 Nam post mille artes, medicse tentamina euro?, 
 
 Ardet adhuc Febris, nee velit arte regi. ' 
 Pra:da sumus flammis ; solum hoc speramus ab igne, 
 
 Ut restet paucus, quern capit urna, cinis. 
 Dum qiuerit medicus febiis causamque modumque, 
 
 Flammarum et tenebras, et sine luce faces ; 
 Quas tractat patitur flammas, et febre calesceng, 
 
 Corruit ipse suis victima rapta focis. 
 Qui tardos potuit morbos artusque trementes 
 
 Sistere, febrili se videt igne rapi. 
 Sic faber exesos fulsit tubicine muros, 
 
 Dum trahit antiquas lenta ruina domes. 
 Sed si flamma vorax miseras incenderit aedes, 
 
 TJnica flagrantes tune sepelire salus. 
 Fit fuga, tectonicas nemo tune invocat artes ; 
 
 Cum perit artificis non minus usta domus. 
 Se tandem Sydenham febrisque Scholaeque furori 
 
 Opponens, morbi quserit et artis opem. 
 Non temere incusat tectae putedinis ignes; 
 
 Nee fictus, febres qni fovet, humor erit. 
 Non bilem ille movet, nulla hie pituita ; salutis 
 
 Quse spes, si fallax ardeat intus aqua? 
 Nee doctas magno rixas ostentat hiatu, 
 
 Quis ipsis major febribus ardor inest. 
 Innocuas placide corpus jubet were flammas; 
 
 Et justo rapidos temperat igne focos. 
 Quid febrim exstinguat, variua quid postulat usus, 
 
 Solari aegrotos qua potes arte, docet. 
 Hactenus ipsa suum timuit Natura calorem, 
 
 Dum saepe incerto, quo calet, igne perit : 
 Dum reparat tacitos male provida sanguinis ignes, 
 
 Prselusit busto, fit calor iste rogus. 
 Jam secura suas foveant prtecordia fiammas. 
 
 Quern Natura negat, dat Medicina modum. 
 Nee solum faciles compescit sanguinis acstus, 
 
 Dum dubia est inter spemque metumque salus; 
 Sed fatale malum domuit, quodque astra malignum 
 
 Credimus, iratam vel geiiuisse Stygem.
 
 TO THE HEBEIDES. 
 
 We spoke of Fiugal. Dr. Johnson said calmly, " If the poems 
 were really translated, they were certainly first written down. Let 
 
 Mr. Macpherson deposit the manuscript in one of the colleges at Aber- 
 deen, where there are people who can judge; and, if the professors 
 certify the authenticity, then there will be an end of the controversy. 
 If he does not take this obvious and easy method, he gives the best 
 reason to doubt ; considering too, how much is against it d priori."* 
 
 Extorsit Lachesi cultros, Pestique venenum 
 
 Abstulit, et tantos non shut esse metus. 
 Quia tandem arte nova domitam miteseere Pcstem 
 
 Credat, et antiquas ponere posse minas .' 
 Post tot mille neces, cumulataque funcra busto, 
 
 Victa jacet parvo vulnere dira Lues ; 
 -Etherise quanquam spargunt contagia ttammaB, 
 
 Quicquid inest istis ignibus, ignis erit. 
 Delapsje coilo flamma; licet acrius urant, 
 
 Has gelidfl, exstingui non nisi inorte putas 1 
 Tu meliora paras, victrix Medicina; tuusque, 
 
 Pestis qua; superat cuneta, triumphus erit. 
 Vive liber, vietis febrilibus ignibus ; unus 
 
 Te simul et mundura qui manet, ignis erit. 
 
 J. LOCKE, A.M., Ex yEdc Christi, Oxon. 
 
 * A large portion of the poems was confessedly written down from oral recitation , 
 and a manuscript in the handwriting; of Mr. Macpherson or any of his coadjutors 
 would have been no evidence. It appears, however, that Macpherson did make an 
 attempt to give satisfaction to the public. He left for some months all the originals of 
 his translation open to inspection and examination in Becket the bookseller's shop, and 
 intimated by advertisement in the newspapers that he .had done sr. No person called 
 to look at them, and his disdain of public censure became still stronger. See letter 
 from Dr. Blair to Henry Mackenzie in Highland Society's Ilcpart. ED.
 
 66 JOl'BNAL OF A TOTTE 
 
 We sauntered after dinner in Sir Alexander's garden, and saw 
 his little grotto, which is hung with pieces of poetiy written in a fail- 
 hand. It was agreeable to observe the contentment and kindness of 
 this quiet, benevolent man. Professor Macleod was brother to Mac- 
 leod of Talisker, and brother-in-law to the Laird of Col.* He gave 
 ine a letter to young Col. I was weary of this day, and began to think 
 wishfully of being again in motion. I was uneasy to think myself 
 too fastidious, whilst I fancied Dr. Johnson quite satisfied. But he 
 owned to me that he was fatigued and teased by Sir Alexander's doing 
 too much to entertain him. I said it was all kindness. JOHNSON : 
 " True, sir ; but sensation is sensation.'' BOSWELL : " It is so : we 
 feel pain equally from the surgeon's probe as from the sword of the foe." 
 
 We visited two bookseller's shops, and could not find Arthur John- 
 ston's Poems. We went and sat near an hour at Mr. Biddoch's. He 
 could not tell distinctly how much education at the college here costs, 
 which disgusted Dr. Johnson. I had pledged myself that we should 
 go to the inn, and not stay supper. They pressed us, but he was re- 
 solute. I saw Mr. Biddoch did not please him. He said to me 
 afterwards, " Sir, he has no vigour in his talk." But my friend should 
 have considered that he himself was not in good humour; so that 
 it was not easy to talk to his satisfaction. We sat contentedly at 
 our inn. He then became merry, and observed how little we had 
 either heard or said at Aberdeen : that the Aberdonians had not 
 started a single mawkin (the Scottish word for hare) for us to pursue. 
 
 TUESDAY, AUGUST 24. 
 
 We set out about eight in the morning, and breakfasted at Ellon. 
 The landlady said to me, " Is not this the great Doctor that is going 
 about through the country ?" I said, "Yes." " Ay," said she, " we 
 heard of him. I made an errand into the room on purpose to see 
 him. There's something great in his appearance : it is a pleasure to 
 have such a man in one's house ; a man who does so much good. If 
 I had thought of it, I would have shown him a child of mine, who 
 has had a lump on his throat for some time." " But," said I, " he is 
 not a doctor of physic." " Is he an oculist?" said the landlord. " No," 
 said I, " he is only a very learned man." LANDLORD : " They say he is 
 the greatest man in England, except Lord Mansfield." Dr. Johnson 
 was highly entertained with this, and I do think he was pleased, too. 
 He said, " I like the exception ; to have called me the greatest man in 
 
 Professor Macleod became successively Sub-Principal and Principal of King's Col- 
 lege. He was famous as a caterer for the College, his Highland connexions giving 
 him great influence in the Western Islands. He died September llth, 1815, aged eighty- 
 eight. ED.
 
 TO THK HEBRIDES. 67 
 
 England would have been an unmeaning compliment ; but the excep- 
 tion marked that the praise was in earnest ; and, in Scotland, the excep- 
 tion must be Lord Mansfield or Sir John Priugle." 
 
 He told me a good story of Dr. Goldsmith. Graham, who wrote 
 " Telemachus, a Masque," was sitting one night with him and Dr. 
 Johnson, and was half drunk. He rattled away to Dr. Johnson : 
 " You are a clever fellow, to be sure ; but you cannot write an essay 
 like Addison, or verses like the ' Rape of the Lock." ' At last he said,* 
 " Doctor, I should be happy to see you at Eton." " I shall be glad 
 to wait on you," answered Goldsmith. " No," said Graham, " 'tis 
 not you I mean, Doctor Minor, 'tis Doctor Major there." Goldsmith 
 was excessively hurt by this. He afterwards spoke of it himself. 
 " Graham," said he, "is a fellow to make one commit suicide." 
 
 We had received a polite invitation to Slains Castle. We arrived 
 there just at three o'clock, as the bell for dinner was ringing. Though, 
 from its being just on the North-east Ocean, no trees will grow here,. 
 Lord EiTol has done all that can be done. He has cultivated his 
 fields so as to bear rich crops of every kind, and he has made an ex- 
 cellent kitchen-garden, with a hot-house. I had never seen any of the- 
 family ; but there had been a card of invitation written by the Honour* 
 able Charles Boyd, the Earl's brother .f We were conducted into the- 
 house, and at the dining-room door were met by that gentleman, whom 
 both of us first took to be Lord Errol ; but he soon corrected our mis- 
 take. My lord was gone to dine in the neighbourhood, at an enter- 
 tainment given by Mr. Irvine, of Drum. Lady Errol received us 
 politely, and was very attentive to us during the time of dinner. There 
 was nobody at table but her ladyship, Mr. Boyd, and some of the 
 children, their governor and governess. Mr. Boyd put Dr. Johnson 
 in mind of having dined with him at Gumming, the Quaker's, along 
 with a Mr. Hall and Miss Williams ; this was a bond of connexion 
 between them. For me, Mr. Boyd's acquaintance with my father was 
 enough. After dinner Lady Errol favoured us with a sight of her 
 young family, whom she made stand up in a row. There were six 
 daughters and two sons. It was a very pleasing sight. 
 
 Dr. Johnson proposed our setting out. Mr. Boyd said he hoped 
 
 * I am sure I have related this story exactly as Dr. Johnson told it to me; but a 
 friend who has often heard him tell it informs me that he usually introduced a cir- 
 cumstance which ought not to be omitted. "At last, sir, Graham, having now got to 
 about the pitch of looking 1 at one man and talking to another, said, Doctor, &c. " What 
 effect (Dr. Johnson used to add) this had on Goldsmith, who was as irascible as a 
 hornet, may be easily conceived." Bos WELL. 
 
 f This is explained by Johnson in a letter to Mrs. Thrale. When he was at the 
 English church in Aberdeen he was espied by Lady Di. Middleton (daughter of the Earl 
 of Stamford, and wife of Mr. Middleton, of Lenton), who mentioned the circumstance t 
 Mr. Boyd, and hence the invitation to visit Slains Castle. ED. 
 
 F2
 
 C8 JOUBNAL OF A TOTTE 
 
 we would stay all night ; his brother would be at home in the even- 
 ing, and would be very sorry if he missed us. Mr. Boyd was called 
 out of the room. I was very desirous to stay in so comfortable a 
 house, and I wished to see Lord Errol. Dr. Johnson, however, was 
 right in resolving to go, if we were not asked again, as it is best to 
 err on the safe side in such cases, and to be sure that one is quite 
 welcome. To my great joy, when Mr. Boyd returned, he told Dr. John- 
 son that it was Lady Errol who had called him out, and said that she 
 would never let Dr. Johnson into the house again if he went away 
 that night; and that she had ordered the coach to cany us to see a 
 great curiosity on the coast, after which we should see the house. We 
 cheerfully agreed. 
 
 Mr. Boyd was engaged in 1745-G, on the same side with many unfor- 
 tunate mistaken noblemen and gentlemen. He escaped, and lay con- 
 cealed for a year in the island of Arran, the ancient territory of the 
 Boyds. He then went to France, and was about twenty years on 
 the Continent. He married a French lady, and now lived very 
 comfortably at Aberdeen, and was much at Slains Castle. He en- 
 tertained us with great civility. He had a pompousness of formal 
 plenitude in his conversation which I did not dislike. Dr. Johnson 
 said " there was too much elaboration in his talk." It gave me 
 pleasure to see him, a steady branch of the family, setting forth 
 all its advantages with much zeal. He told us that Lady Eirol 
 was one of the most pious and sensible women in the island ; had a 
 good head, and as good a heart. He said she did not use force or 
 fear in educating her children. JOHNSON: "Sir, she is wrong; I 
 would rather have the rod to be the general terror to all, to make them 
 learn, than tell a child if you do thus or thus you will be more 
 esteemed than your brothers or sisters. The rod produces an effect 
 which terminates in itself. A child is afraid of being whipped, and 
 gets his task, and there's an end on't; whereas, by exciting emula- 
 tion, and comparisons of superiority, you lay the foundation of lasting 
 mischief; you make brothers and sisters hate each other." 
 
 During Mr. Boyd's stay in Arran, he had found a chest of medical 
 books, left by a surgeon there, and he read them till he acquired 
 some skill in physic, in consequence of which he is often consulted 
 by the poor. There were several here waiting for him as patients. 
 We walked round the house till stopped by a cut made by the influx 
 of the sea. The house is built quite upon the shore ; the windows 
 look upon the main ocean, and the King of Denmark is Lord Errol's 
 nearest neighbour on the north-east. 
 
 We got immediately into the coach and drove to Dunbui, a rock 
 near the shore, quite covered with sea-fowls ; then to a circular basin
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. C 
 
 of large extent, surrounded with tremendous rocks. On the quarter 
 next the sea there is a high arch in the rock, which the force of the 
 tempest lias driven out. This place is called Buchan's Buller, or the 
 Buller of Buchan, and the country people call it the Pot. Mr. Boyd 
 said it was called so from the French louloir. It may be more simply 
 traced from " hoiler" in our own language. We walked round this 
 monstrous cauldron. In some places the rock is very narrow, and on 
 each side there is a sea deep enough for a man of war to ride in, so 
 that it is somewhat horrid to move along. However, there is earth 
 and grass upon the rock, and a kind of road marked out by the print 
 of feet, so that one makes it out pretty safely , yet it alarmed me to 
 see Dr. Johnson striding irregularly along. He insisted on taking 
 a boat, and sailing into the Pot. We did so. He was stout, and 
 wonderfully alert. The Buchan men all showing their teeth, and 
 speaking with that sharp accent which distinguishes them, was to 
 me a matter of curiosity. He was not sensible of the difference of 
 pronunciation in the South and North of Scotland, which I wondered at. 
 
 As the entry into the Buller is so narrow that oars cannot be used 
 as you go in, the method taken is to row very hard when you come 
 near it, and give the boat such a rapidity of motion that it glides in. 
 Dr. Johnson observed what an effect this scene would have had, were 
 we entering into an unknown place. There are caves of considerable 
 depth, I think, one on each side. The boatman had never entered 
 either of them far enough to know the size. Mr. Boyd told us that 
 it is customary for the company at Peterhead Well to make parties, 
 and come and dine in one of the caves here. 
 
 He told us that, as Slains is at a considerable distance from 
 Aberdeen, Lord Errol, who has a very large family, resolved to have 
 a surgeon of his own. With this view he educated one of his tenant's 
 sons, who is now settled in a very neat house and farm just by, which 
 we saw from the road. By the salary which the Earl allows him, and 
 the practice which he has had, he is in very easy circumstances. He 
 had kept an exact account of all that had been laid out on his educa- 
 tion, and he came to his lordship one day, and told him that he had 
 arrived at a much higher situation than ever he expected ; that he was 
 now able to pay what his lordship had advanced, and begged he would 
 accept of it. The Earl was pleased with the generous gratitude and 
 genteel offer of the man, but refused it. Mr. Boyd also told us Gum- 
 ming, the Quaker, first began to distinguish himself by writing against 
 Dr. Leechman on Prayer, to prove it unnecessary, as God knows best 
 what should be, and will order it without our asking the old hackneyed 
 objection.* 
 
 * Thomas Camming, a merchant, distinguished for the part he took in the acquisition
 
 70 JOUKNAL OF A TOUB 
 
 When we returned to the house we found coffee and tea in the 
 drawing-room. Lady Errol was not there, being, as I supposed, en- 
 gaged with her young family. There is a bow-window fronting the 
 sea. Dr. Johnson repeated the ode, " Jam satis terris," while Mr. 
 Boyd was with his patients. He spoke well in favour of entails, to 
 preserve lines of men whom mankind are accustomed to reverence. 
 His opinion was, that so much land should be entailed as that families 
 should never fall into contempt, and as much left free as to give them 
 all the advantages of property in case of any emergency. "If," said 
 he, " the nobility are suffered to sink into indigence, they of course 
 become corrupt, they are ready to do whatever the king chooses, there- 
 fore it is fit that they should be kept from becoming poor, unless it is 
 fixed that when they fall below a certain standard of wealth they should 
 lose their peerages. We know the House of Peers have made noble 
 stands, when the House of Commons durst not. The two last years 
 of Parliament they dare not contradict the populace." 
 
 This room is ornamented with a number of fine prints, and with 
 a whole-length picture of Lord Errol, by Sir Joshua Keynolds. This 
 led Dr. Johnson and me to talk of our amiable and elegant Mend, 
 whose panegyric he concluded by saying, " Sir Joshua Keynolds, sir, 
 is the most invulnerable man I know ; the man with whom if you 
 should quarrel, you would find the most difficulty how to abuse." 
 
 Dr. Johnson observed the situation here was the noblest he had 
 ever seen, better than Mount Edgecumbe, reckoned the first in Eng- 
 land ; because, at Mount Edgecumbe, the sea is bounded by land on 
 the other side, and, though there is the grandeur of a fleet, there is 
 also the impression of there being a dockyard, the circumstances of 
 which are not agreeable. At Slaius is an excellent old house. The 
 noble owner has built of brick, along the square in the inside, a 
 gallery, both on the first and second storey, the house being no higher ; 
 so that he has always a diy walk, and the rooms, to which formerly 
 there was no approach but through each other, have now all separate 
 entries from the gallery, which is hung with Hogarth's works and other 
 prints. We went and sat awhile in the library. There is a valuable 
 numerous collection. It was chiefly made by Mr. Falconer, husband 
 to the late Countess of Errol in her own right. This Earl has added 
 a good many modern books. 
 
 of Senegal in 1758. He planned the expedition, and, as he predicted, the French sur- 
 rendered without a contest. " If it was the first military scheme of any Quaker," says 
 Smollett, " let it be remembered it was also the first successful expedition ef this war, 
 and one of the first that ever was carried on, according to the pacific system of the Quakers, 
 without the loss of a drop of blood on either side." (" History of England," A. D., 1758.) 
 " In 1745, my friend, Tom Cumming, the Quaker, said he would not fight, but he 
 would drive an ammunition-cart." (Johnson in Bos well's "Life," 1783.) This energetic 
 Quaker died in 1774. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBEIDES. 
 
 71 
 
 About nine the Earl came home. 
 Captain Gordon, of Park, was with 
 him. His lordship put Dr. John- 
 son in mind of their having dined 
 together in London, along with 
 Mr. Beauclerk. I was exceedingly 
 pleased with Lord Errol. His 
 dignified person and agreeable 
 countenance with the most un- 
 affected affability, give me high 
 satisfaction. From perhaps a 
 weakness, or, as I rather hope, 
 more fancy and warmth of feeling 
 than is quite reasonable, my mind 
 is ever impressed with admiration 
 for persons of high birth, and I 
 could with the most perfect honesty 
 expatiate on Lord Errol's good 
 qualities, but he stands in no need 
 of my praise. His agreeable man- 
 ners and softness of address pre- 
 vented that constraint which the 
 idea of his being Lord High Con- 
 stable of Scotland might other- 
 wise have occasioned. He talked 
 very easily and sensibly with his 
 learned guest. I observed that 
 Dr. Johnson, though he showed 
 that respect to his lordship which, from principle, he always does 
 to high rank, yet, when they came to argument, maintained that 
 manliness which becomes the force and vigour of his understanding. 
 To show external defeience to our superiors is proper; to seem to 
 yield to them in opinion is meanness.* The Earl said grace, both 
 
 Lord Chesterfield, in his Letters to his son, complains of one who argued in an 
 indiscriminate manner with men of all ranks. Probably the noble lord had felt with 
 some uneasiness what it was to encounter stronger abilities than his own. If a peer 
 will engage at foils with his inferior in station, he must expect that his inferior in 
 station will avail himself of every advantage; otherwise it is not a fair trial of strength 
 and skill. The same will hold in a contest of reason, or of wit. A certain king entered 
 the lists of genius with Voltaire. The consequence was, that, though the king had 
 great and brilliant talents, Voltaire had such a superiority that his majesty could not 
 bear it; and the poet was dismissed, or escaped, from that court. In the reign of 
 James I. of England, Crichton, Lord Sanquhar, a peer of Scotland, from a vain ambition 
 to excel a fencing-master in his own art, played at rapier and dagger with him The 
 fencing-master, whose fame and bread were at stake, put out one of his lordship's eyes 
 
 k LOUD ENROL.
 
 72 JOTJBNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 before and after supper, with much decency. He told us a story of 
 a man who WHS executed at Perth some years ago for murdering a 
 woman who was with child by him, and a former child lie had by her. 
 His hand was cut oft'; he was then pulled up, but the rope broke, and 
 he was forced to lie an hour on the ground, till another rope was 
 brought from Perth, the execution being in a wood at some distance, 
 at the place where the murders were committed. " There," said my 
 lord, " I see the hand of Providence." I was really happy here. I 
 saw in this nobleman the best dispositions and best principles ; and 
 I saw him, in my mind's eye, to be the representative of the ancient 
 Boyds of Kilmamock. I was afraid he might have urged drinking, 
 as, I believe, he used formerly to do; but he drank port and water 
 out of a large glass himself, and let us do as we pleased. He went 
 with us to our rooms at night, said he took the visit very kindly, 
 and told me my father and he were very old acquaintance, that I 
 now knew the way to Slains, and he hoped to see me there again. 
 
 I had a most elegant room, but there was a fire in it which blazed, 
 and the sea, to which my windows looked, roared, and the pillows 
 were made of the feathers of some sea-fowl which had to me a dis- 
 agreeable smell ; so that by all these causes I was kept awake a good 
 while. I saw in imagination Lord Errol's father, Lord Kilmarnock, 
 who was beheaded on Tower-hill in 1746, and I was somewhat dreary. 
 But the thought did not last long, and I fell asleep. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, ACGUST 25. 
 
 We got np between seven and eight, and found Mr. Boyd in 
 the dining-room, with tea and coftee before htm, to give us breakfast. 
 We were in an admirable humour. Lady Errol had given each of us 
 a copy of an ode by Beattie on the birth of her son, Lord Hay 
 Mr. Boyd asked Dr. Johnson how he liked it. Dr. Johnson, who 
 did not admire it, got off very well by taking it out and reading the 
 second and third stanzas of it with much melody. This, without 
 his saying a word, pleased Mr. Boyd. He observed, however, to 
 Dr. Johnson that the expression as to the family of Errol, 
 
 " A thousand years have seen it shine," 
 compared with what went before, was an anti-climax, and that it 
 
 would have been better, 
 
 " Ages have seen," &c. 
 Dr. Jobnson said, " So great a number as a thousand is better. Dolus 
 
 Exasperated at this, Lord Sanquhar hired ruffians, and had the fencing-master assas- 
 sinated; for which his lordship was capitally tried, condemned, and hanged. Not being 
 a peer of England, he was tried by the name of Robert Crichton, Esq. ; but he was ad- 
 mitted to be a baron of three hundred years standing. See the State Trials; and the 
 History of England by Hume, who applauds the impartial justice executed upon a man 
 of high rank. BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBBIDES. 73 
 
 latet in universalilits. Ages might be only two ages."* He talked 
 of the advantage of keeping iip the connexions of relationship, which 
 produce much kindness. "Every man," said he, " who comes into the 
 world has need of friends. If he has to get them for himself, half his 
 life is spent before his merit is known. Relations are a man's ready 
 friends, who support him. When a man is in real distress, he flies 
 into the arms of his relations. An old lawyer, who had much ex- 
 perience in making wills, told me that after people had deliberated 
 long, and thought of many for their executors, they settled at last by 
 fixing on their relations. This shows the universality of the principle." 
 
 I regretted the decay of respect for men of family, and that a 
 nabob now would carry an election from them. JOHNSON: "Why, 
 sir, the nabob will carry it by means of his wealth, in a country 
 where money is highly valued, as it must be where nothing can be 
 had without money ; but, if it comes to personal preference, the 
 man of family will always cany it. There is generally a scoundrelism 
 about a low man." Mr. Boyd said that was a good ism. 
 
 I said I believed mankind were happier in the ancient feudal state 
 of subordination than they are in the modern state of independency. 
 JOHXSOX: " To be sure, the chief was, but we must think of the 
 number of individuals. That they were less happy seems plain; for 
 the state from which all escape as soon as they can, and to which 
 none return after they have left it, must be less happy ; and this is 
 the case with the state of dependence on a chief or great man." 
 
 I mentioned the happiness of the French in their subordination, 
 by the reciprocal benevolence and attachment between the great and 
 those in lower rank. Mr. Boyd gave us an instance of their gentle- 
 manly spirit. An old Chevalier de Malthe, of ancient noblesse, but in 
 low circumstances, was in a coffee-house at Paris, where was Julien, 
 the great manufacturer, at the Gobelins, of the fine tapestry, so much 
 distinguished both for the figures and the colours. The chevalier's 
 carriage was very old. Says Julien, with a plebeian insolence, " I 
 think, sir, you had better have your carriage new painted." The che- 
 
 * The truth of Johnson's remark has been finely illustrated by Campbell's naval ode, 
 " Ye Mariners of England :" 
 
 " Whose flag has braved a thousand years 
 The battle and the breeze." 
 
 Lord Errol, the courteous entertainer of the travellers, died June 3rd, 1778, aged fifty- 
 two. Dr. Beattie, in communicating an account of his death to Mrs. Montagu, 
 eulogises his character and adds "His stature was six feet four inches, and his pro- 
 portions most exact. His countenance and deportment exhibited such a mixture of the 
 sublime and the graceful as I have never seen united in any other man. He often put 
 me in mind of an ancient hero; and I remember Dr. Samuel Johnson was positive that 
 he resembled Homer's character of Sarpedon." (" Life of Dr. Beattie," Vol.;!!. p. 333.) 
 Mr. Eovd died December 27th, 1780. FD.
 
 74 JOUB>*AL OF A TOTTE 
 
 valier looked at liim with indignant contempt, and answered, " Well, 
 sir, you may take it home and dye it !" All the coffee-house rejoiced 
 at Julien's confusion. 
 
 We set out about nine. Dr. Johnson was curious to see one of 
 those structures which northern antiquarians call a Druid's temple. I 
 had a recollection of one at Strichen, which I had seen fifteen years 
 ago ; so we went four miles out of our road, after passing Old Deer, 
 and went thither. Mr. Fraser, the proprietor, was at home, and showed 
 it to us. But I had augmented it in my mind, for all that remains 
 is two stones set up on end, with a long one laid upon them, as was 
 usual, and one stone at a little distance from them. That stone was 
 the capital one of the circle which surrounded what now remains. 
 Mr. Fraser was very hospitable.* There was a fair at Strichen, and 
 
 * He is the worthy son of a worthy father, the late Lord Strichen, one of our judges, 
 to whose kind notice I was much obliged. Lord Strichen was a man not only honest, 
 but highly generous ; for after his succession to the family estate, he paid a large sum 
 of debts contracted by his predecessor, which he was not under any obligation to pay. 
 Let me here, for the credit of Ayrshire, my own county, record a noble instance of 
 libeial honesty in William Hutchison, drover, in Lanehead, Kyle, who formerly obtained 
 a full discharge from his creditors upon a composition of his debts ; but upon being 
 restored to good circumstances, invited his creditors last winter to a dinner, without 
 telling the reason, and paid them their full sums, principal and interest. They pre- 
 sented him with a piece of plate, with an inscription to commemorate this extraordi- 
 nary instance of true worth ; which should make some people in Scotland blush, while, 
 though mean themselves, they strut about under the protection of great alliance, con- 
 scious of the wretchedness of numbers who havepost by them, to whom they never think 
 of making reparation, but indulge themselves and their families in most unsuitable 
 expense. BOSWELL. 
 
 [Lord Strichen died 15th February, 1775. He sat on the bench for the unprecedentedly 
 long period of forty-five years. As one of the Scottish Judges by whom the Douglas 
 cause was tried, his lordship coincided in opinion with Boswell, using, among others, 
 the following curious illustration. "It has been said that the proof of Lady Jane 
 Douglas's pregnancy depends chiefly upon eyesight. Why, my lords, don't we owe 
 half our knowledge to the eye ? Is it not by the eye we acquire our knowledge of 
 astronomy, the effects of the moon, the change of tides ? We know the progress of the 
 seasons by the observation of our eye-sight ; and why may not the advancement of 
 pregnancy be ascertained by similar observation?" In 1731 Lord Strichen married Ann, 
 Countess of Bute, who thus announces the event to a female friend, the Hon. Mrs. Mac 
 2s eil of Ugdale. 
 
 " Edr., 21st October, 1731. 
 
 " MY DEAREST PEGGY, Since the time I receaved yours I have had mucli bussness, 
 and have, as I sepose you will have heard, dispached some things of consequence, as I 
 hope for my own happiness, and no disadvantage to ether my childreen or ther friends, 
 rether otherways. I am sure I could have married non who have a more real regard 
 for you then the gentilman I have choss. We often mind you and drink your health, 
 as I conclude you doe ours. 
 
 " The letters you wrote me was most diverting, but I must tell you your Camelton 
 gentrey are no coungererrs, ore they would not tell such lyes. I assure you the inten- 
 sion of my marriage was known to non, but so fare [as I told my mother, it was a thing 
 resolved one; but for my brothers I defer'd telling them till I could not help it, fearing 
 they would not be pleased with my changing my condision one any terms ; but to shew 
 you how pepel may be mistaken, my mother, who approved of the thing upon my first
 
 TO THE HEBEIDES. 75 
 
 he had several of his neighbours from it at dinner. One of them, 
 Dr. Fraser, who had been in the army, remembered to have seen 
 Dr. Johnson at a lecture on experimental philosophy at Lichfield. 
 The Doctor recollected being at the lecture, and he was surprised to 
 find here somebody who knew him. 
 
 Mr. Fraser sent a servant to conduct us by a short passage into 
 the high road. 1 observed to Dr. Johnson that I had a most disa- 
 greeable notion of the life of country gentlemen ; that I left Mr. Fraser 
 just now as one leaves a prisoner in a jail. Dr. Johnson said that I 
 was right in thinking them unhappy, for that they had not enough 
 to keep their mind in motion. 
 
 I started a thought this afternoon which amused us a great part of 
 the way. " If," said I, " our club should come and set up in St. An- 
 drews as a college to teach all that each of us can in the several de- 
 partments of learning and taste, we should rebuild the city : we should 
 draw a wonderful concourse of students." Dr. Johnson entered fully 
 into the spirit of this project. We immediately fell to distributing the 
 offices. I was to teach civil and Scotch law ; Burke, politics and elo- 
 quence ; Garrick, the art of public speaking ; Langton was to be our 
 Grecian, Colman our Latin, professor; Nugent to teach physic; 
 Lord Charlemont, modern history ; Beauclerk, natural philosophy ; 
 Vesey, Irish antiquities, or Celtic learning ;* Jones, Oriental learn- 
 
 telliug her (a year agoe) quite repented of her aprobation, and would fain have made me 
 give my friend the slipe when our engagement was equal to ye priest's siremony, and 
 my brothers, one the conterery, who's displeasur I only fear'd, went into the thing the 
 minuet I told them of my resolution, in so much that they both have asur'd me that 
 they aprove of my choise, that ther is non in Briton they would have bin so well 
 pleased with (to use their own words). My sister Argyle writes me, that the Duke 
 took the account of my resolusion to marry in a most reasonable way, and as for my 
 choise, thinks non could make any objections to it. I have bin att the more pains to 
 write, because good Mrs. Hails has spreed twenty lyes with relation to my brother's carage 
 (and aprobation) upon my change of condision, for which I don't resolve to speack 
 ore countinance her any more. 
 
 "It was a strange accident befell Thorn's son; however, thess losses are easely made 
 up to one of Peggy's agge. I am of oppinion Tom will get more bearns than ever he 
 will take the causion to provid for ; but I imagin he will have his own hopes. I shall 
 doe him no harme that way, not being very young, and having had many childreen 
 alredey, which may indid be to likly, yet since Lady Delape had a daughter last sumer, 
 I am resolved not to dispair till I am 50 ; since, without a mireckel, a woman may have a 
 child till that age," &c. 
 
 This specimen of the epistolary intercourse of the haut ton of Scottish society, in the 
 early part of last century is given in the " Historical Account of the Family of Fraser, 
 1825." The lady was not disappointed in her hopes of issue by her second marriage. She 
 had a son, Alexander Fraser of Strichen, the " worthy" entertainer of Johnson and 
 Boswell. The grandson of this gentleman, Thomas Alexander Fraser, succeeded as 
 heir of entail to the large estates of Lovat in Inverness-shire, in 1816, and in 1837 was 
 raised to the peerage by the title of Lord Lovat. ED.] 
 
 * Since the first edition, it has been suggested by one of the club, who knew Mr. 
 Vesey better than Dr. Johnson and I, that we did not assign him a proper place ; for he
 
 76 JOURNAL OF A TOCE 
 
 ing; Goldsmith, poetry and ancient history; Chamier, commercial 
 politics; Reynolds, painting and the arts which have beauty for 
 their object ; Chambers, the law of England. Dr. Johnson at first 
 said, "I'll trust theology to nobody but myself;" but upon due con- 
 sideration that Percy is a clergyman, it was agreed that Percy should 
 teach practical divinity and British antiquities, Dr. Johnson himself, 
 logic, metaphysics, and scholastic divinity. In this manner did we 
 amuse ourselves, each suggesting, and each varying or adding, till 
 the whole was adjusted. Dr. Johnson said, "We only wanted a ma 
 thematician since Dyer died, who was a very good one ; but as to 
 everything else, we should have a veiy capital university."* 
 
 We got at night to Banff. I sent Joseph on to Duff House ; 
 but Earl Fife was not at home, which I regretted much, as we should 
 have had a very elegant reception from his lordship. We found here 
 but an indifferent inn.f Dr. Johnson wrote a long letter to Mrs. 
 Thrale. I wondered to see him write so much so easily. He verified 
 his own doctrine, that " a man may always write when he will set 
 himself doggedly to it." 
 
 THURSDAY, AUGUST 26. 
 
 We got a fresh chaise here, a very good one, and very good 
 horses. We breakfasted at Cullen. They set down dried haddocks, 
 
 was quite unskilled in Irish antiquities and Celtic learning-, but might with propriety 
 hare been made professor of architecture, which he understood well, and has left a very 
 good specimen of his knowledge and taste in that art, by an elegant house built on a 
 plan of his own formation, at Lucan, a few miles from Dublin. Bos WELL. 
 
 * Our Club, originally at the Turk's Head, Gerrard-street, then at Prince's, Sack- 
 ville-street, now at Baxter's, Dover-street, which at Mr. Garrick's funeral acquired 
 anameforthe first time, and was called "The Literary Club," was instituted in 1764, 
 aud now consists of thirty-five members. It has, since 1773, been greatly augmented ; 
 and though Dr. Johnson with justice observed, that, by losing 1 Goldsmith, Garrick, 
 Nugent, Chamier, Beauclerk, we had lost what would make an eminent club, yet 
 when I mention, as an accession, Sir. Fox, Dr. George Fordyce, Sir Charles Bun- 
 bury, Lord Ossory, Mr. Gibbon, Dr. Adam Smith, Mr. R. B. Sheridan, the Bishops of 
 Kilaloe and St. Asaph, Dean Marley, Mr. Steevens, Mr. Dunning, Sir Joseph Banks, 
 Dr. Scott of the Commons, Earl Spencer, Mr. Wyndham of Norfolk, Lord Elliott, Mr. 
 Malone, Dr. Joseph Warton, the Rev. Thomas "Warton, Lord Lucan, Mr. Burke 
 junior, Lord Palmerston, Dr. Burney, Sir "William Hamilton, and Dr. Warren, it 
 will be acknowledged that we might establish a second university of high reputa- 
 tion. BOSWELL. 
 
 t Here, unluckily, the windows had no pulleys; and Dr. Johnson, who was con- 
 stantly eager for fresh air, had much struggling to get one of them kept open. Thus he 
 had a notion impressed upon him, that this wretched defect was genenl in Scotland ; 
 in consequence of which he has erroneously enlarged upon it in his " Journey." I re- 
 gretted that he did not allow'me to read over his book before it was printed. I should 
 have changed very little; but I should have suggested an alteration in a few places where 
 lie has laid himself open to be attacked. I hope I should have prevailed with him to 
 omit or soften his assertion, that " a Scotsman must be a sturdy moralist, who does 
 not prefer Scotland to truth," for I really think it is not founded ; and it is harshly 
 said. BOSWBLL.
 
 TO THE HEBEIDES. 77 
 
 broiled along with our tea. I ate one ; but Dr. Johnson was disgusted 
 by the sight of them, so they were removed.* Cullen has a comfort- 
 able appearance, though but a very small town, and the houses mostly 
 poor buildings. 
 
 I called on Mr. Robertson, who has the charge of Lord Find- 
 later's affairs, and was formerly Lord Monboddo's clerk, was three 
 times in France witli him, and translated Condamine's account of 
 the Savage Girl, to which his lordship wrote a preface, containing 
 several remarks of his own. Robertson said^he did 'not believe so 
 much as his lordship did ; that it was plain to him the girl con- 
 founded what she imagined with what she remembered ; that, besides, 
 she perceived Condamine and Lord Monboddo forming theories, and 
 she adapted her story to them. 
 
 Dr. Johnson said, " It is a pity to see Lord Monboddo publish 
 such notions as he has done ; a man of sense,' and of so much elegant 
 learning. There would be little in a fool doing it, we should only 
 laugh ; but when a wise man does it, we are sorry. Other people have 
 strange notions, but they conceal them. If they have tails, they 
 hide them , but Monboddo is as jealous of his tail as a squirrel." I 
 shall here put down some more remarks of Dr. Johnson's on Lord 
 Monboddo, which were not made exactly at this time, but come in 
 well from connexion. He said, he did not approve of a judge's 
 calling himself Farmer Burnett.f and going about } with a little 
 
 * Sir Walter Scott has entered a protest, in the'narae^of 'his country, against John- 
 son's taste in the matter of haddocks. " A Finnan. haddock," he says, " diied over the 
 smoke of the sea-weed and sprinkled with salt;water during- the process, acquires a 
 relish of a very peculiar and delicate flavour, inimitable on any other coast than 
 that of Aberdeenshire." (Croker's Boswell). Johnson might have replied, " Sir, you do 
 not see your way through the question." The fish served up to the travellers at Cullen 
 was the common dried haddock. Sir Walter alludes to the peculiar sort prepared at 
 Finnan, a fishing-village six miles south of Aberdeen. " Your genuine haddock may 
 be distinguished by his bright yellow colour, by his peculiar odour, and by other 
 marks familiar to the learned. He should never be kept above a day, ought to be 
 roasted by a very quick firf , and served up and ,eaten immediately. So highly is he 
 esteemed that the burghs on the Frith of Forth, and other places, have regular manu- 
 factories of a spurious article, which they vend under his name." (" Book of Bon-Accord," 
 Aberdeen, 1839.) The ordinary dried haddock is, however, a very palatable addition to 
 the breakfast-table, and great quantities of the fish are now sent to the London market. 
 En. 
 
 t It is the custom in Scotland for the Judges of the Court of Session to have the 
 title of Jur Js from their estates ; thus Mr. Burnett .is Lord Monboddo, as Mr. Home was 
 Lord Kamcs. There is something a little awkward in this; for they are denominated 
 in deeds by their names, with the addition of " one of the Senators of the College of 
 Justice;" and subscribe their Christian and sur-names, as James Burnett, Henry Home, 
 even in judicial acts. BOSWELL. 
 
 [As the ladies of these official dignitaries do not bear'any share in their husbands 
 honours, they are distinguished only by their lords' family name. They were notalways 
 contented with this species of Salique law, which certainly is somewhat inconsistent. But
 
 78 JOTJEXAL OF A TOUR 
 
 round hat. He laughed heartily at his lordship's saying he was an 
 enthusiastical farmer ; " for," said he, " what can he do in farming 
 by his enthusiasm?" Here, however, I think Dr. Johnson mistaken. 
 He who wishes to be successful or happy ought to be enthusiasti- 
 cal that is to say, very keen in all the occupations or diversions of 
 life. An ordinary gentleman-farmer will be satisfied with looking at 
 his fields once or twice a-day ; an enthusiastical farmer will be con- 
 stantly employed on them will have his mind earnestly engaged ; 
 will talk perpetually of them. But Dr. Johnson has much of the 
 nil admirari in smaller concerns. That survey of life which gave 
 birth to his " Vanity of Human Wishes " early sobered liis mind. 
 Besides, so great a mind as his cannot be moved by inferior objects ; 
 an elephant does not run and skip like lesser animals. 
 
 Mr. Robertson sent a servant with us, to show us through Lord 
 Findlater's wood, by which our way was shortened, and we saw some 
 part of his domain, which is indeed admirably laid out. Dr. Johnson 
 did not choose to walk through it. He always said that he was not 
 come to Scotland to see fine places, of which there were enough in 
 England ; but wild objects, mountains, waterfalls, peculiar manners ; 
 in short, things which he had not seen before. I have a notion that 
 he at no time has had much taste for rural beauties. I have myself 
 very little. 
 
 Dr. Johnson said there was nothing more contemptible than a 
 country gentleman living beyond his income, and every year growing 
 poorer and poorer. He spoke strongly of the influence which a man 
 has by being rich. " A man," said he, " who keeps his money, has in 
 reality more use from it than he can have by spending it." I observed 
 that this looked very like a paradox ; but he explained it thus : " If it 
 were certain that a man woidd keep his money locked up for ever, to 
 be sure he would have no influence ; but, as so many want money, 
 and he has the power of giving it, and they know not but by gaining 
 his favour they may obtain it, the rich man will always have the 
 greatest influence. He, again, who lavishes his money is laughed jat 
 as foolish, and in a great degree with justice, considering how much 
 is spent from vanity. Even those who partake of a man's hospitality 
 have but a transient kindness for him. If he has not the command 
 of money, people know he cannot help them if he would ; whereas the 
 rich man always can, if he will, and for the chance of that will have 
 much weight." BOSWELL : " But philosophers and satirists have all 
 treated a miser as contemptible." JOHNSON : " He is so philosophically; 
 
 their pretensions to title are said to have been long since repelled by James V., the 
 Sovereign who founded the College of Justice. " I," said he, " made the carles lords, 
 but who the devil made the carlines ladies]" (Scott. Note in " Eedgauntlett.") ED.]
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 7 
 
 but not in the practice of life." BOSWELL : " Let me see, now; I do 
 not know the instances of misers in England, so as to examine into 
 their influence." JOHNSON: " We have had few misers in England." 
 BOSWELL : " There was Lowther." JOHNSON : "Why, sir, Lowther, 
 by keeping his money, had the command of the county, which the 
 family has now lost by spending it.* I take it, he lent a great deal, 
 and that is the way to have influence and yet preserve one's wealth. 
 A man may lend his money upon very good security, and yet have 
 his debtor much under his power." BOSWELL: "No doubt, sir. He 
 can always distress him for the money ; as no man borrows who is 
 able to pay on demand quite conveniently." 
 
 We dined at Elgin, and saw the noble ruins of the cathedral. 
 Though it rained much, Dr. Johnson examined them with a most 
 patient attention. He could not here feel any abhorrence at the 
 Scottish reformers, for he had been* told by Lord Hailes that it was- 
 destroyed before the Reformation, by the Lord of Badenoch.f who- 
 
 * I do not know what was at this time the state of the parliamentary interest of the 
 ancient family of Lowther, a family before the Conquest ; but all the nation knows it to- 
 be very extensive at present. A due mixture of severity and kindness, economy and 
 munificence, characterises its present representative. BOSWELL. 
 
 [The family of Lowther has since illustrated its nobility by its patronage of Words- 
 worth the poet. ED.] 
 
 t Note by Lord Hailes. " The cathedral of Elgin was burnt by the Lord of Badenoch 
 because the Bishop of Moray had pronounced an award not to his liking 1 . The indem- 
 nification that the see obtained was, that the Lord of Badenoch stood for three days 
 barefooted at the great gate of the cathedral. The story is in the Chartulary of Elgin."" 
 BOSWELL. 
 
 [The Lord of Badenoch alluded to is better known in history and tradition by the title- 
 of the Wolf of Badenoch. This notorious personage was Alexander Stewart; or in 
 Gaelic, Alister More Mac an Righ, a natural son of King Robert II. The Highlanders 
 considered the fertile plains of Moray, peopled by a Flemish race, as a country in which 
 all men were free to take their prey. Stewart had plundered the Church lands ; the 
 Bishop of Moray excommunicated him ; and in revenge the Wolf descended with his 
 followers and ravaged the district. He first burned the town of Forres, and then, on 
 the feast of St. Botolph 1390, he set fire to Elgin Cathedral, to the canons and chaplains* 
 houses, and to the greater part of the town. He did penance for the outrage in the 
 Blackfriars at Perth, and promised to make indemnification to the Bishop of Moray; but 
 he died in less than four years afterwards, February 20th, 1394. The magnificent ruins 
 of Elgin Cathedral show that the Wolf of Badenoch did not complete his work of destruc- 
 tion. The pointed arches and their decorations speak of a period anterior to his fiery 
 raid; but as every subsequent bishop was compelled to devote a third of his temporalities 
 to the completion of the pile, large additions were made in the fifteenth and sixteenth 
 centuries. The building was in the form of a Passion or Jerusalem Cross, having five 
 towers, two at each end, and one, 198 feet high, in the centre. In 1568, from miserable- 
 parsimony, the Privy Council, under the Regent Morton, stripped the lead from the roof 
 of the cathedral and shipped it to Holland for sale. The vessel foundered. " I hope 
 every reader," says Johnson, " will rejoice that this cargo of sacrilege was lost at sea. 1 * 
 The cathedral soon went to decay, and in 1711 the great tower fell. Of late years- 
 attention has been paid to the preservation of the venerable pile, and the rubbish which 
 had been accumulated has been cleared away, disclosing more fully the graceful and 
 noble proportions and ornate tracery of unquestionably the finest ruin in Scotland. ^Eo.]
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOUE 
 
 had a quarrel with the bishop. The bishop's house, and those of the 
 other clergy, which are still pretty entire, do not seem to have been 
 proportioned to the magnificence of the cathedral, which has been of 
 
 ELOIS CATHEDKAL. 
 
 great extent, and had very fine carved work. The ground within the 
 walls of the cathedral is employed as a burying-place. The family of 
 Gordon have their vault here, but it has nothing grand. 
 
 We passed Gordon Castle* this forenoon, which has a princely 
 
 * I am not sure whether the Duke was at home. But, not having the honour of being 
 much known to his Grace, I could not have presumed to enter his castle, though to intro- 
 duce even so celebrated a stranger. We were at any rate in a hurry to get forward to 
 the wildness which we came to see. Perhaps, if this noble family had still preserved that 
 sequestered magnificence which they maintained when Catholics, corresponding with 
 the Grand Duke of Tuscany, we might have been induced to have procured proper letters 
 of introduction, and devoted some time to the contemplation of venerable superstitious 
 state. BOSWELL. 
 
 [Alexander Duke of Gordon, born 1743, died 1827. About the time of his Grace's 
 death a considerable part of Gordon Castle was destroyed by fire. The present castle 
 (now the seat of the Duke of Kichmond) is chiefly of modern erection. It is of great 
 size, being 570 feet in length, and of imposing appearance, though somewhat formal 
 and monotonous in its regularity. The grounds are extensive, studded with noble trees, 
 and containing a fine deer-park and gardens. One favourite lime-tree is 317 feet in 
 circumference, all the branches touching the ground. Duke Alexander wrote some 
 humorous Scotch songs, praised by Burns, and was famous for his skill in mechanics. 
 He kept a turning-lathe, and delighted to make snuff-boxes for his friends. Queen 
 Charlotte once requested him to turn a set of neck-ornaments for her, which he did in 
 gold. Her Majesty wore them at a Drawing-room ; " but I thought it as well," said the
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 81 
 
 appearance. Fochabers, the neighbouring village, is a poor place, 
 many of the houses being ruinous ; but it is remarkable, they have 
 in general orchards well stored with apple-trees. Elgin has what in 
 England are called piazzas, that run in many places on each side of 
 the street. It must have been a much better place formerly. Probably 
 it had piazzas all along the town, as I have seen at Bologna. I 
 approved much of such structures in a town, on account of their 
 conveniency in wet weather. Dr. Johnson disapproved of them, 
 " because (said he) it makes the under-storey of a house very dark, 
 which greatly over-balances the conveniency, when it is considered 
 how small a part of the year it rains; how few are usually in the street 
 at such times ; that many who are might as well be at home : and the 
 little that people suffer, supposing them to be as much wet as they 
 commonly are in walking a street." 
 
 We fared but ill at our inn here ; and Dr. Johnson said, this was 
 the first time he had seen a dinner in Scotland that he could not eat. 
 
 In the afternoon, we drove over the very heath where Macbeth 
 met the witches, according to tradition.* Dr. Johnson again solemnly 
 repeated 
 
 " How far is't called to Fores? What are these, 
 So withered, and so wild in their attire ? 
 They look not like the inhabitants o' the earth, 
 And yet are on't." 
 
 He repeated a good deal more of "Macbeth." His recitation was 
 grand and affecting, and, as Sir Joshua Reynolds has observed to me, 
 had no more tone than it should have ; it was the better for it. He 
 then parodied the "All hail" of the witches to Macbeth, addressing 
 himself to me. I had purchased some land called Dalblair ; and as in 
 Scotland it is customary to distinguish landed men by the name of 
 
 Duke, " to take myself off to Gordon Castle; else I might perhaps have been appointed 
 necklace-maker to the Queen and the Princesses." His Grace had an old librarian, Mr. 
 James Hoy (a correspondent of Burns's) who was called the Duke's Crammer. His fore- 
 noon duty was to read the new books, as they arrived at the castle, while the Duke 
 worked at his turning-lathe ; and in the afternoons, over a bottle of claret, Refilled his 
 patron with all that he considered worth remembering in them. Had Johnson visited 
 Gordon Castle the quality and manner of his literary communications to the Duke would 
 have formed a curious contrast to those of the old Scotch librarian. ED.] 
 
 * In reality they did not reach the spot till the following day. Johnson traces the 
 journey correctly. Boswell had been misled by his memory or by looking into Pennant, 
 who fell into the same error. ("Tour in Scotland in 1769.") The "blasted heath" lies 
 to the west of Forres, about halfway between that town and Nairn. A round knoll 
 planted with fir-trees, and known by the name of"Macbeth's Hillock," has from time 
 immemorial been pointed out as the place where the Thane met the weird sisters. In 
 the immediate neighbourhood is the old castle of Inshock, once a seat of the Hays of 
 Lochloy ; and the hills of Rosshire and Sutherland are seen across the Frith. The 
 once-dreary table-land of the moor is now almost all under cultivation either with, 
 woods or arable farms, and the public highway passes through it. ED. 
 
 a
 
 83 
 
 JOUBNAL OF A TOUE 
 
 their estates, I had thus two titles, Dalblair and Young Auchinleck. 
 So my friend, in imitation of 
 
 " All hail, Macbeth I hail to thee, Thane of Cawdor !" 
 condescended to amuse liimself with uttering 
 
 " All hail, Dalblair ! hail to thee, Laird of Auchinleck !" 
 We got to Fores at night, and found an admirable inn, in which 
 Dr. Johnson was pleased to meet with a landlord who styled himsell' 
 " Wine Cooper, from LONDON." 
 
 FRIDAY, AUGUST 27. 
 
 It was dark when we came 
 to Fores last night, so we did 
 not see what is called King 
 Duncan's monument.* I shall 
 now mark some gleanings of 
 Dr. Johnson's conversation. I 
 spoke of "Leonidas," and said 
 there were some good passages 
 in it. JOHNSON : " Why, you 
 must seek for them." He said, 
 Paul Whitehead's Manners was 
 a poor performance. Speaking 
 of Derrick, he told me " he had 
 a kindness for him, and had 
 often said, that if his letters 
 had been written by one of a 
 more established name they 
 would have been thought very 
 pretty letters." 
 
 This morning I introduced 
 the subject of the origin of 
 evil. JOHNSON : " Moral evil 
 is occasioned by free will, which 
 implies choice between good 
 and evil. With all the evil 
 that there is, there is no man 
 but would rather be a free 
 agent than a mere machine 
 without the evil ; and what is 
 
 * Boswell must allude to Torres Pillar" or " Sweno's Stone," a curiously carved 
 obelisk, 23 feet in height above the ground, and said to be 12 feet under ground. It 
 stands in a field about half a mile to the east of the town. It is commonly supposed to 
 commemorate the expulsion of the Danes after the Battle of Mortlach in the reign of 
 Malcolm II. The antiquity of the stone is pointed out incidentally in a charter granted 
 
 TORES P1LLAK.
 
 TO THE HEBEIDE8. 83 
 
 best for each individual must be best for the whole. If a man would 
 rather be the machine, I cannot argue with him. He is a different 
 being from me." BOSWELL : "A man, as a machine, may have 
 agreeable sensations ; for instance, he may have pleasure in music." 
 JOHNSON : " No, sir, he cannot have pleasure in music ; at least no 
 power of producing music ; for he who can produce music may let it 
 alone ; he who can play upon a fiddle may break it ; such a man is 
 not a machine." This reasoning satisfied me. It is certain, there 
 cannot be a free agent unless there is the power of being evil as 
 well as good. We must take the inherent possibilities of things 
 into consideration, in our reasonings or conjectures concerning the 
 works of God. 
 
 We came to Nairn to breakfast. Though a county town and a 
 royal burgh, it is a miserable place. Over the room where we sat, a 
 girl was spinning wool with a great wheel, and singing an Erse song : 
 " I'll warrant you," said Dr. Johnson, " one of the songs of Ossian." 
 He then repeated these lines : 
 
 " Verse sweetens toil, however rude the sound. 
 
 All at her work the village maiden sings ; 
 Xor, while she turns the giddy wheel around, 
 
 .Revolves the sad vicissitude of things." 
 
 I thought I had heard these lines before. JOHNSON : " I fancy not, 
 sir ; for they are in a detached poem, the name of which I do not 
 remember, written by one Giifard, a parson." 
 
 I expected Mr. Kenneth Macaulay, the minister of Calder, who 
 published the " History of St. Kilda," a book which Dr. Johnson liked, 
 would have met us here, as 1 had written to him from Aberdeen. 
 But 1 received a letter from liim, telling me that he could not leave 
 home, as he was to administer the sacrament the following Sunday, 
 and earnestly requesting to see us at his manse. " We'll go," said Dr. 
 Johnson ; which we accordingly did. Mrs. Macaulay received us, and 
 told us her husband was in the church distributing tokens.* We 
 arrived between twelve and one o'clock, and it was near three before 
 he came to us. 
 
 by Alexander II., of the lands of Burgue, extending 1 "amagno quercu in Malvin usque 
 ad rune Pictorum." The carved figures and runic tracery on the pillar are singularly 
 elaborate and striking. ED. 
 
 * In Scotland there is a great deal of preparation before administering the sacra- 
 ment. The minister of the parish examines the people as to their fitness, and to those of 
 whom he approves gives little pieces of tin [pewter], stamped with the name of the 
 parish, as tokens, which they must produce before receiving it. This is a species of 
 priestly power, and sometimes may be abused. I remember a law-suit brought by a 
 person against his parish minister, for refusing him admission to that sacred ordinance. 
 BOSWELL. 
 
 G 2
 
 84 
 
 JOITBNAL OF A TOUE 
 
 Dr. Johnson thanked him for his book, and said it was a very 
 pretty piece of topography. Macaulay did not seem much to mind 
 the compliment. From his conversation, Dr. Johnson was persuaded 
 that he had not written the book which goes under his name. I my- 
 self always suspected so ; and I have been told it was written by the 
 learned Dr. John Macpherson of Sky, from the materials collected by 
 Macaulay. Dr. Johnson said privately to me, " There is a combina- 
 tion in it of which Maoaulay is not capable." However, he was ex- 
 ceedingly hospitable ; and, as he obligingly promised us a route for 
 our tour through the Western Isles, we agreed to stay with him all 
 night.* 
 
 CAWDOR CASTLE. 
 
 After dinner, we walked to the old castle of Calder (pronounced 
 Cawder) , the Thane of Cawdor's seat. I was sorry that my friend, 
 
 * Mr. Macaulay had, previous to his settlement at Calder, been minister of Ardna- 
 murchan, in Argyleshire, and visited St. Kilda in 1758, as missionary to the island, from 
 the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. His " History of St. Kilda" was pub- 
 lished in 1764. It is not very accurate in details, but is well written. Passages of the
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 85 
 
 this " prosperous gentleman," was not there. The old tower must be 
 of great antiquity. There is a draw-bridge, what has been a moat, 
 and an ancient court. There is a hawthorn-tree, which rises like a 
 wooden pillar through the rooms of the castle ; for, by a strange con- 
 ceit, the walls have been built round it. The thickness of the walls, 
 the small slanting windows, and a great iron door at the entrance 
 on the second storey as you ascend the stairs, all indicate the rude 
 times in which this castle was erected. There were here some large 
 venerable trees.* 
 
 work are somewhat Johnsonian in expression : e. g., " Silver and gold, stately houses 
 and costly furniture, together with the fantastic luxury of dress and the table, they 
 neither have nor desire. To rise in fleets and armies, amidst infinite toils and dangers ; 
 to earn posts or pensions, after having wriggled themselves into the favour of the great, 
 at the expense of honour and conscience ; to create overgrown estates, after having 
 practised all the vile arts of avarice, frauds, extortion and servility, are passions and 
 wishes which Providence has kindly concealed from them. The humble blessings of 
 bread and wild-fowl, of peaceful cottages and little flocks, of angling-rods and hunting- 
 ropes, are all the riches, honours, and profits they aspire after. If at a distance from 
 the seats of justice, they are absolute strangers to the law's delays ; if ignorant and 
 unphilosophical, they are libertines neither in belief or practice, nor with learned specula- 
 tions strike at the foundation of virtue, nor produce any breach of the public tranquillity 
 or happiness." See " Wilson's Voyage Round Scotland," 1842, in which there is a highly 
 interesting account of St. Kilda. The population of the little island consists of about a 
 score of families, or 105 souls, who pay their rent (about 60/.) by means of the feathers 
 of sea-fowl, of which united they are bound to contribute 240 stones, and eacli family 
 also gives the proprietor twenty-three pecks of barley every year. The solan geese, 
 fulmar, and other varieties of sea-fowl on the coast are innumerable, and the men are 
 bold cragsmen. Mr. Wilson was much struck with their fearless mode of collecting 
 the eggs and young of the various sea-fowl, from the faces of the vast precipitous cliffs 
 which overhang the sea. ED.] 
 
 * The royal licence to build and fortify a castle at Calder was gran ted by James II., in 
 the year 1454. From the nature of the ground the castle could never have been sur- 
 rounded by a moat, properly so called, but by a dry fosse or ditch. The hawthorn-tree 
 does not rise " through the rooms of the castle," but merely reaches the top of an arched 
 vault or dungeon, in the centre of the structure, which had been built over the tree on 
 the rock. The iron door securing this gloomy and singular apartment was earned off 
 from Lochindorb Castle by special permission from the Crown. The Campbells acquired 
 the estate by marriage, in 1510. A certain Thane dying in 1494, left a posthumous child, 
 a daughter, named Muriel, or Marion. She was carried off when about six years of age 
 by Campbell, of Inverliver, who came with a following of sixty men. Muriel's grand- 
 mother, in order to identify the child, seared and marked her on the hip with a key, 
 and her two uncles, Alexander and Hugh Calder, pursued the party with what assist- 
 ance they could muster. A conflict took place in Strathnairn ; Campbell sent forward 
 the child under an escort, and dressed up a sheaf of corn to represent the young heiress. 
 Thertwe succeeded; Muriel was taken off, and ultimately became the wife of Sir John 
 Campbell, third son of Argyle. In the heat of the conflict between the Campbells and 
 Calders, when the tide seemed to run against tiie former, Inverliver exclaimed in Gaelic, 
 " It is a far cry to Loch Awe, and a distant help to the Campbells ;" a saving which be- 
 came proverbial in the north, to express imminent danger and distant relief. Boswell's 
 friend, the "prosperous gentleman," was John Campbell, Esq., M.P. who died in 1779, 
 and was succeeded by his grandson. The latter was elevated to the peerage in 17%, by 
 the title of Lord Cawdor. The tradition as to the site of the castle and the mysterious 
 hawthorn-tree is, that a wise man counselled the Thaue to load an ass with a chest
 
 86 JOURNAL OF A TOCB 
 
 I was afraid of a quarrel between Dr. Johnson and Mr. 
 Macaulay, who talked slightingly of the lower English clergy. The 
 Doctor gave him a frowning look, and said, " This is a day of novel- 
 ties; I have seen old trees in Scotland, and I have heard the English 
 clergy treated with disrespect." 
 
 I dreaded that a whole evening at Calder manse would be 
 heavy ; however, Mr. Grant, an intelligent and well-bred minister in 
 the neighbourhood [parish of Daviot] was there, and assisted us by 
 his conversation. Dr. Johnson, talking of hereditary occupations in 
 the Highlands, said, " There is no harm in such a custom as this ; 
 but it is wrong to enforce it, and oblige a man to be a tailor or a 
 smith because his father has been one." This custom, however, is 
 not peculiar to our Highlands ; it is well known that in India a 
 similar practice prevails. 
 
 Mr. Macaulay began a rhapsody against creeds and confessions. 
 Dr. Johnson showed that what he called imposition was only a volun- 
 tary declaration of agreement in certain articles of faith, which a 
 Church has a right to require, just as any other society can insist 
 on certain rules being observed by its members. Nobody is com- 
 pelled to be of the Church, as nobody is compelled to enter into a 
 society. This was a very clear and just view of the subject; but 
 Macaulay could not be driven out of his track. Dr. Johnson said, 
 " Sir, you are a bigot to laxness." 
 
 Mr. Macaulay and I laid the map of Scotland before us, and 
 he pointed out a route for us from Inverness, by Fort Augustus, to 
 Glenelg, Sky, Mull, Icolmkill, Lorn, and Inverary, which I wrote 
 down. As my father was to begin the northern circuit about the 
 18th of September, it was necessary for us either to make our tour 
 with great expedition so as to get to Auchinleck before he set out, 
 or to protract it so as not to be there till his return, which would be 
 about the 10th of October, By Macaulay 's calculation we were not 
 to land in Lorn till the 20th of September. I thought that the 
 interruptions by bad days, or by occasional excursions, might make 
 
 full of gold, and to build his castle with the money, at the third hawthorn-tree at which 
 the animal should stop. A similar tradition is related as to the site of the ruined Abbey 
 of Altenberg, in Germany. The monks devolved upon an ass the choice of the situa- 
 tion for their new convent, and loaded him with the money to be expended on the 
 building. " He went on till he entered a shady grove, that affords a delicious refuge 
 fiom the burning rays of the'afternoon sun, and stopped where a bright rivulet, trick- 
 ling from the Spechtshard, and marking its course by a strip of the liveliest green, fell 
 into the beautiful Dhun. His sonorous voice was drowned in the exulting psalms of the 
 monks, and on this, the loveliest spot of the whole valley, the sacred edifice was erected." 
 (" Byways of History," by Mrs. Percy Sinnett, 1847.) The ass of Cawdor was no less 
 choice in his taste. The site of the castle, on the range of a romantic, richly-wooded 
 stream, is eminently picturesque and beautiful. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 87 
 
 it ten days later ; and I thought, too, that we might perhaps go to 
 Benbecula, and visit Clanranald, which would take a week of itself. 
 
 Dr. Johnson went up with Mr. Grant to the library, which con- 
 sisted of a tolerable collection ; but the Doctor thought it rather 
 a lady's library, with some Latin books in it by chance, than the 
 library of a clergyman. It had only two of the Latin fathers, and 
 one of the Greek fathers in Latin. I doubted whether Dr. Johnson 
 would be present at a Presbyterian prayer. I told Mr. Macaulay 
 so, and said that the Doctor might sit in the library while we were 
 at family worship. Mr. Macaulay said he would omit it rather than 
 ,2;ive Dr. Johnson offence ; but I would by no means agree that an 
 txcess of politeness, even to so great a man, should prevent what I 
 eiteem as one of the best pious regulations. I know nothing more 
 beneficial, more comfortable, more agreeable than that the little 
 societies of each family should regularly assemble and unite in praise 
 anl prayer to our heavenly Father, from whom we daily receive so 
 imch good, and may hope for more in a higher state of existence. I 
 mei tioned to Dr. Johnson the over-delicate scrupulosity of our host ; 
 lie Slid he had no objection to hear the prayer. This was a pleasing 
 surprise to me, for he refused to go and hear Principal Eobertson 
 preadi. " I will heai- him," said he, " if he will get up into a tree 
 and p'each ; but I will not give a sanction by my presence to a Pres- 
 byteran assembly." 
 
 M\ Grant having prayed, Dr. Johnson said his prayer was a 
 very gx>d one, but objected to hia not having introduced the Lord's 
 Prayei. He told us that an Italian of some note in London said 
 once tc him, " We have in our service n prayer called the ' Pater 
 Noster,' which is a very fine composition. I wonder who is the 
 author of it." A singular instance of ignorance in a man of some 
 literature and general inquiry ! 
 
 SATURDAY, AUGUST 28. 
 
 Dr. Johnson had brought a Sallust with him in his pocket from 
 Edinbiirgh. He gave it last night to Mr. Macaulay 'a son, a smart 
 young lad about eleven yeai's old. Dr. Johnson had given an account 
 )f the education at Oxford, in all its gradations. The advantage of 
 in-ing a servitor to a youth of little fortune strack Mrs. Macaulay 
 much. I observed it aloud. Dr. Johnson very handsomely and 
 kindly said that if they would send their boy to him when he was 
 ready for the University, he would get him made a servitor, and 
 would perhaps do more for him. He could not promise to do more, 
 but would undertake for the servitorship.* 
 
 Dr. Johnson did not neglect what he had undertaken. By his interest with the
 
 JOUBNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 I should have mentioned that Mr. White, a Welshman, who 
 has been many years factor (i. e. steward) on the estate of Calder, 
 drank tea with us last night, and upon getting a note from Mr. 
 Macaulay, asked us to his house. We had not time to accept his 
 invitation. He gave us a letter of introduction to Mr. Feme, 
 master of stores at Fort George. He showed it to me ; it recom- 
 mended " two celebrated gentlemen ; no less than Dr. Johnson, 
 author of his ' Dictionary,' and Mr. Boswell, known at Edinburgh 
 by the name of Paoli." He said he hoped I had no objection to 
 what he had written, if I had he would alter it. I thought it was 
 a pity to check his effusions, and acquiesced ; taking care, however, 
 to seal the letter, that it might not appear that I had read it. 
 
 A conversation took place about saying grace at breakfast (as we 
 do in Scotland) as well as at dinner and supper ; in which Dr. Joha- 
 son said, " It is enough if we have stated seasons of prayer, no matter 
 when. A man may as well pray when he mounts his horse, or 
 a woman when she milks her cow (which Mr. Grant told us is done 
 in the Highlands), as at meals ; and custom is to be followed."* 
 
 We proceeded to Fort George.f When we came into the sqrare, 
 I sent a soldier with the letter to Mr. Feme. He came to us im- 
 mediately, and along with him came Major Brewse, of the Engi- 
 neers, pronounced Bruce. He said he believed it was orignally 
 the same Norman name with Bruce. That he had dined at a house 
 in London where were three Bruces, one of the Irish line, me of 
 the Scottish line, and himself of the English line. He said le was 
 shown it in the Heralds' Office spelt fourteen different ways. I told 
 him the different spellings of my name. Dr. Johnson observed that 
 there had been great disputes about the spelling of Shakqpeare's 
 name ; at last it was thought that it would be settled by looting at 
 the original copy of his will ; but, upon examining it, he was found 
 to have written it himself no less than three different ways.J 
 
 Kev. Dr. Adams, master of Pembroke College, Oxford, where he was educated for soms 
 time, he obtained a servitorship for young Macaulay. But it seems lie had other views, 
 and I believe went abroad. BOSWELL. [The death of his father, and consequentlj 
 reduced circumstances of the family, had probably frustrated the scheme. The Rev, 
 Kenneth Macaulay died at Calder, in 1779, and was succeeded by Mr. Grant, mentioned 
 above. ED.] 
 
 * He could not bear to' have it thought that, in any instance whatever, the Scots are 
 more pious than the English. I think grace as proper at breakfast as at any other meal. 
 It is the pleasantest meal we have. Dr. Johnson has allowed the peculiar merit of 
 breakfast in Scotland. BOSWELL. 
 
 t Built after the rebellion of 1745, and constructed for a garrison of about two 
 thousand men. It is the most complete fort in the United Kingdom. ED. 
 
 % The three signatures of the poet attached to his will in Doctors' Commons are so- 
 indistinctly written, that it is impossible to tell how he spelt his name. Two others 
 exist, connected with a purchase in the Blackfriars. Fac-slmiles of the whole have
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. f>9 
 
 Mr. Feme and Major Brewse first carried us to wait on Sir 
 Eyre Coote, whose regiment, the 37th, was lying here, and who 
 then commanded the fort. He asked us to dine with him, which we 
 agreed to do. 
 
 Before dinner we examined the fort. The Major explained the 
 fortification to us, and Mr. Feme gave us an account of the stores. 
 Dr. Johnson talked of the proportions of charcoal and saltpetre in 
 making gunpowder, of granulating it, and of giving it a gloss. He 
 made a very good figure upon these topics. He said to me after- 
 wards that he had talked ostentatiously. We reposed ourselves a 
 little in Mr. Feme's house. He had everything in neat order as in 
 England, and a tolerable collection of books. I looked into Pen- 
 nant's " Tour in Scotland." He says little of this fort, but that " the 
 barracks, &c., form several streets." This is aggrandising. Mr. 
 Ferae observed, if he had said they formed a square, with a row of 
 buildings before it, he would have given a juster description. Dr. 
 Johnson remarked, " How seldom descriptions correspond with reali- 
 ties ; and the reason is that people do not write them till some time 
 after, and then their imagination has added circumstances." 
 
 We talked of [Sir Adolphus Oughton. The Major said he knew 
 a great deal for a military man. JOHNSON : " Sir, you will find few 
 men of any profession who know more. Sir Adolphus is a very 
 extraordinary man ; a man of boundless curiosity and unwearied 
 diligence." 
 
 I know not how the Major contrived to introduce the contest be- 
 tween Warburton and Lowth. JOHNSON : " Warburton kept his 
 temper all along, while Lowth was in a passion. Lowth published 
 some of Warburton's letters. Warburton drew him on to write 
 some very abusive letters, and then asked his leave to publish 
 them ; which he knew Lowth could not refuse after what he had 
 done. So that Warburton contrived that he should publish, appa- 
 rently with Lowth's consent, what could not but show Lowth in a 
 disadvantageous light."* 
 
 been carefully engraved, but the orthography is still unsettled. The poet seems to 
 have dashed off his signature carelessly, little fancying that it was to be examined and 
 debated, like the will in Swift's satire, totidem syllabls and totidcm liter'u. The clerks 
 spell it Sfiackspeare, which seems to mark the common pronunciation. There may have 
 been, as Mr. Hunter suggests, a rustic and a courtly mode Mr. Shackspeare in the 
 country, and in polished or scholastic circles, as in poetry, the more stately Shakespeare. 
 A copy of Florio's Montaigne, 1609, now in the British Museum, bears the poet's 
 name on a blank page, and in this .instance the spelling is clearly " Shakspcre ;" but 
 doubts are entertained as to the genuineness of the signature. The poems, " Venus 
 and Adonis" and " Lucrece" the only works which we know to have been published 
 by the poet himself have the name printed on the title-page "Shake-speare." ED. 
 * Here Dr. Johnson gave us part of a conversation held between a Great Personage
 
 90 JOURNAL OF A TOCB 
 
 At three the drum beat for dinner. I, for a little while, fancied 
 myself a military man, and it pleased me. We went to Sir Eyre 
 Coote's, at the governor's house, and found him a most gentle- 
 manlike man. His lady is a very agreeable woman, with an un- 
 commonly saild and sweet tone of voice. There was a pretty large 
 company ; Mr. Feme, Major Brewse, and several officers. Sir 
 Eyre had come from the East Indies by land, through the deserts 
 of Arabia. He told us the Arabs could live five days without 
 victuals, and subsist for three weeks on nothing else but the blood 
 of their camels, who could lose so much of it as would suffice for 
 that time, without being exhausted. He highly praised the virtue 
 of the Arabs, their fidelity if they undertook to conduct any per- 
 son, and said they would sacrifice their lives rather than let him 
 be robbed. Dr. Johnson, who is always for maintaining the 
 superiority of civilised over uncivilised men, said, " Why, sir, I 
 can see no superior virtue in this. A sergeant and twelve men, 
 who are my guard, will die rather than that I shall be robbed." 
 Colonel Pennington, of the 37th Regiment, took up the argument 
 with a good deal of spirit and ingenuity. PENNINGTON : " But 
 the soldiers are compelled to this by fear of punishment." JOHN- 
 SOX : " Well, sir, the Arabs are compelled by the fear of infamy." 
 PENNINGTON : "The soldiers have the same fear of infamy, and the 
 fear of punishment besides ; so have less virtue, because they act 
 less voluntarily." Lady Coote observed very well that it ought to be 
 known if there was not among the Arabs some punishment for not 
 being faithful on such occasions. 
 
 We talked of the stage. I observed that we had not now such a 
 company of actors as in the last age, Wilks, Booth, &c. &c. JOHN- 
 SON : " You think so because there is one who excels all the rest 
 so much : you compare them with Garrick, and see the deficiency. 
 Garrick's great distinction is his universality ; he can represent all 
 modes of life but that of an easy, fine-bred gentleman." PENNING- 
 TON : He should give over playing young parts." JOHNSON r "He 
 does not take them now ; but he does not leave off those which he 
 has been used to play, because he does them better than anyone 
 else can do them. If you had generations of actors, if they swarmed 
 like bees, the young ones might drive off the old. Mrs. Gibber, 
 I think, got more reputation than she deserved, as she had a great 
 
 and him, in the library at the Queen's Palace, in the "course of which this contest was 
 considered. I have been at great pains to get that conversation as perfectly preserved 
 as possible. It may, perhaps, at some future time, be given to the public. BOSWELL. 
 [The conversation is fully reported byBoswell in his "Life of Johnson," February, 1767. 
 ED.]
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 91 
 
 sameness, though, her expression was undoubtedly very fine. Mrs. 
 Clive was the best player I ever saw. Mrs. Pritchard was a very 
 good one, but she had something affected in her manner : I imagine 
 she had some player of the former age in her eye which occasioned 
 it." * 
 
 Colonel Pennington said, Garrick sometimes failed in emphasis ; 
 as for instance, in Hamlet, 
 
 " I will speak daggers to her, but use none" 
 
 instead of 
 
 " I will speak daggers to her, but use none." 
 
 We had a dinner of two complete courses, variety of wines, and 
 the regimental band of music playing in the square before the win- 
 dows after it. I enjoyed this day much. We were quite easy and 
 cheerful. Dr. Johnson said, " I shall always remember this fort with 
 gratitude." I could not help being struck with some admiration at 
 finding upon this barren sandy point, such buildings, such a dinner, 
 such company : it was like enchantment. Dr. Johnson, on the 
 other hand, said to me more rationally, that it did not strike him 
 as anything extraordinary, because he knew there was a large sum 
 of money expended in building a fort ; here was a regiment. If 
 there had been less than what we found it would have surprised 
 him. He looked coolly and deliberately through all the gradations : 
 my warm imagination jumped from the barren sands to the splendid 
 dinner and brilliant company ; to borrow the expression of an absurd 
 
 poet, 
 
 " Without ands or ife 
 I leapt from off the sands upon the cliffs." 
 
 The whole scene gave me a strong impression of the power and 
 excellence of human art. 
 
 We left the fort between six and seven o'clock ; Sir Eyre Coote, 
 Colonel Pennington, and several more accompanied us down stairs 
 and saw us into our chaise. There could not be greater attention paid 
 to any visitors. Sir Eyre spoke of the hardships which Dr. John- 
 son had before him. BOSWELL : " Considering what he has said of 
 us, we must make him feel something rough in Scotland." Sir 
 Eyre said to him, "You must change your name, sir." BOSWELL : 
 " Ay, to Dr. Macgregor."t 
 
 * Much agreeable gossip about all these theatrical personages who enjoy a sort of 
 classic renown in the annals of the English stage will be found in Colley Cibber's 
 " Apology" for his Life (1739), in Davies's " Life of Garrick" (1780), and in " Horace 
 Wai pole's Letters." Pope committed an egregious blunder in deposing Theobald to 
 make the vivacious Colley Gibber hero of the "Dunciad." ED. 
 
 + The " wicked clan Gregor" was denounced and proscribed by statute ; and the 
 lieges were charged not to harbour any of the name, or assist them with meat, drink, or
 
 JOCKXAL OF A TOCB 
 
 "We got safely to Inverness, and put up at Mackenzie's inn. 
 Mr. Keith, the collector of excise here, my old acquaintance at Ayr, 
 who had seen us at the fort, visited us in the evening, and engaged 
 us to dine with him next day, promising to breakfast with us and 
 take us to the English chapel ; so that we were at once commodiously 
 arranged. 
 
 Not finding a letter here that I expected I felt a momentary 
 impatience to be at home. Transient clouds darkened my rmagin*- 
 tion, and in those clouds I saw events from which I shrunk ; but a 
 sentence or two of the Eambler's conversation gave me firmness, and 
 I considered that I was upon an expedition for which I had wished 
 for years, and the recollection of which would be a treasure to me 
 for life. 
 
 The abort familiar glimpse of Sir Eyre Coote, the gallant conqueror of Hyder 
 AH, and preserver of oar Indian empire, has a pleasing effect. Sir Eyre vac despatched 
 a second time to India, as Commander-in-chief, in 1778, and baring retrieved the glory 
 of the British arm*, died at Madras in 1783. " Xor is he yet forgotten. Xow and then 
 a whiteheaded old Sepoy may stiP be fonndwfao lores to talk of Porto Xoro and PoBflore. 
 It is but a short tiair since one of those aged men came to present a memorial to an 
 English officer who holds one of the highest employment* in India. A print of Coote 
 hong in the room. The veteran recognised at once that &ee and figure which he had not 
 seea for more than half a century, and, forgetting his salazn to the tiring, halted, drew 
 himself up, and, with solemn reverence, paid his military obeisance to the dead." 
 " Maeanfay't Essays," ed. I860, p. 614. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBBIDES. 93 
 
 SUNDAY, AUGUST 29. 
 
 Mr. Keith breakfasted with us. Dr. Johnson expatiated rather 
 too strongly upon the benefits derived to Scotland from the Union, 
 and the bad state of our people before it. I am entertained with 
 his copious exaggeration upon that subject, but I am uneasy when 
 people are by who do not know him as well as I do, and may be apt 
 to think him narrow-minded ;* I therefore diverted the subject. 
 
 The English chapel to which we went this morning was but 
 mean.f The altar was a bare fir table, with a coarse stool for kneel- 
 ing on, covered with a piece of thick sail-cloth doubled, by way of 
 cushion. The congregation was small. Mr. Tait, the clergyman, 
 read prayers very well, though with much of the Scotch accent. 
 He preached on "Love your enemies." It was remarkable that, 
 when talking of the connexions amongst men, he said, that some 
 connected themselves with men of distinguished talents, and, since 
 they could not equal them, tried to deck themselves with their 
 merit by being their companions. The sentence was to this purpose. 
 It had an odd coincidence with what might be said of my connect- 
 ing myself with Dr. Johnson. 
 
 After church we walked down to the quay. We then went to 
 Macbeth's castle. I had a romantic satisfaction in seeing Dr. John- 
 
 * It is remarkable that Dr. Johnson read this gentle remonstrance, and took no 
 notice of it to me. BOSWELL. [If ruffled for a moment by the "gentle remonstrance," 
 Johnson must have been soothed to complacency by the next passage in the Journal. 
 ED.] 
 
 t A better church was afterwards erected, which in its turn gave way to the present 
 edifice, a very handsome and commodious structure. Inverness, when Johnson saw 
 it, was a little old-fashioned Highland town a northern emporium or capital for all 
 the country north of the Spey, though not above half its present size, and with a popu- 
 lation of only five or six thousand. There was some shipping at the harbour, and a 
 few merchants exported malt, salt-fish, skins, &c., to Holland an4 the Thames, re- 
 ceiving cloths, wines, and other commodities in exchange. There was no banking 
 establishment nearer than Aberdeen. Shortly after the Union a weekly post was 
 established by foot-runners through the central Highlands ; but in 1755 this was sup- 
 planted by a post thrice a week by way of Aberdeen. The first post-chaise was brought 
 to the town in 1760, and was for some time the only four-wheeled carriage in the dis- 
 trict. In 1770 the first cargo of coals was commissioned, the common fuel then and 
 long afterwards being peats or turf. The houses were mostly thatched, and had wind- 
 ing stairs in front. Tea had crept slowly into use before 1773, but ale was the common 
 beverage of the people ; and there was seldom any want of smuggled brandy, or of 
 /mid claret, which could be had at from eighteen-pence to two shillings a bottle. Fish 
 and game were abundant. All classes merchants, lawyers and tradesmen took the 
 world easy in those unoorapeting days. The Christmas festivities were usually kept 
 up for two or three weeks the gentlemen playing at bowls during the day, and the 
 ladies amusing themselves at the card-tables. One of the duties of lawyers' clerks 
 smart young Highlanders in kilts was to find out their masters at night, wherever 
 they might happen to be, and to see them safe home! In the earlier times, however, 
 the quiet citizens had been sorely beset by tyrannical chiefs and lawless clans, and 
 suffered severely in the wars of Moutrose and the rebellions of 1715 and 1745. ED.
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOUE 
 
 son actually in it. It perfectly corresponds with Shakspeare's 
 description, which Sir Joshua Reynolds has so happily illustrated, 
 in one of his notes on our immortal poet : 
 
 " This castle hath a pleasant seat : the air 
 
 Nimbly and sweetly recommends itself 
 
 Unto our gentle senses," &c. 
 
 Just as we came out of it a raven perched on one of the chimney - 
 tops and croaked. Then I repeated, 
 
 " The raven himself is hoarse, 
 
 That croaks the fatal entrance of Duncan 
 Under my battlements."* 
 
 We dined at Mr. Keith's. Mrs. Keith was rather too attentive 
 to Dr. Johnson, asking him many questions about his drinking only 
 water. He repressed that observation by saying to me, " You may 
 remember that Lady Errol took no notice of this." 
 
 * The ruined fortress commonly called "Macbeth's Castle," which was blown up in 
 1746, was erected subsequent to the period of the great usurper. The ancient castle 
 stood at a short distance from this spot, on an eminence still called "The Crown." 
 The original fortress was early in ruins. There is in existence an old deed, dated at 
 Inverness in 1362, by which Robert de Chisholm grants to the altars of the Holy Cross 
 six acres of land within the lands of the " old castle of Inverness." Malcolm Canmore 
 is said to have destroyed the castle on account of his father, King Duncan, having 
 been murdered there, or because it was Macbeth's castle ; and he erected a new.fortress 
 to the westward of the former, on a commanding situation overlooking the town and 
 river. Either of "the sites would answer Sbakspere's description, which no doubt 
 was purely fanciful, introduced, as Sir Joshua Reynolds remarks, to give repose to the 
 mind of the reader or the spectator after the tumultuous bustle of the preceding scenes 
 in the drama, and as a contrast to the scene of horror that immediately succeeds. 
 There is a strong probability that Macbeth had a castle at Inverness. The Pictish sove- 
 reign, Brudei, had a residence at the mouth of the Ness about the year 565, as we 
 learn from Adomnan's " Life of Columba." Macbeth was Maormor or governor of Ross- 
 shire, and by his marriage he became also governor of the province of Moray ; so that 
 the whole region from the Spey to the confines of Sutherland, and extending westwards 
 to Argyle, was under his charge. Inverness would therefore be a central point in his 
 government. King Duncan, at the time of his death, was on a progress to Caithness, to 
 chastise Torfin, the Jarl or Earl of Caithness, who had refused to render tribute to the 
 Crown. He was thus obliged to traverse the territories of Macbeth, and the opportu- 
 nity may have suggested the murder, especially as both Macbeth and his wife Gruodh had 
 private wrongs to revenge. Fordun and the " Chronicon Elegiacum" concur in stating 
 that Macbeth slew Duncan, and that Duncan died at Elgin. He was slain, according to 
 Fordun, at Bothgofuane or Bothgowan in Gaelic, " the blacksmith's house." Boethius, 
 who published his history in 1526, was the first to state that Macbeth was instigated by 
 his wife to murder Duncan at Inverness. We do not look in Shakspere for historical 
 facts ; but the chequered character of Macbeth, his warlike energy and ambition, his 
 remorse for his great crime, as evinced by his penitential gifts to the Church and his 
 largesses to the poor, and his commanding talents, which extorted obedience and admi- 
 ration to the last, are faithfully depicted by the poet. Even his superstitious fears and 
 beliefs are natural not only to the age and country, but to his character as a great mili- 
 tary leader. " There is so much of chance in warfare," as Coleridge has remarked, 
 " and such vast events are connected with the acts of a single individual, that the proper 
 temperament for 'generating or receiving superstitious impressions is naturally pro- 
 duced." All history, from Brutus down to Napoleon, attests this fact. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 95 
 
 Dr. Johnson lias the happy art (for which I have heard my father 
 praise the old Earl of Aberdeen) of instructing himself, by making 
 every man he meets tell him something of what he knows best. He 
 led Keith to talk to him of the excise in Scotland ; and in the 
 course of conversation mentioned tliat his friend Mr. Thrale, the 
 great brewer, paid twenty thousand pounds a-year to the revenue, 
 and that he had four casks, each of which holds sixteen hundred 
 barrels above a thousand hogsheads. * 
 
 After this there was little conversation that deserves to be remem- 
 bered ; I shall, therefore, here again glean what I have omitted on 
 former days. Dr. Gerard, at Aberdeen, told us that when he was 
 in Wales he was shown a valley inhabited by Danes, who still retain 
 their own language and are quite a distinct people. Dr. Johnson 
 thought it could not be true, or all the kingdom must have heard of 
 it. He said to me, as we travelled, " These people, sir, that Gerard 
 talks of may have somewhat of a peregrinity in their dialect, which 
 relation has augmented to a different language." I asked him if 
 peregrinity was an English word ; he laughed, and said " No." I 
 told him this was the second time that I had heard him coin a word. 
 When Foote broke his leg, I observed that it would make him fitter 
 for taking off George Faulkner as Peter Paragraph, poor George 
 having a wooden leg. Dr. Johnson at that time said, " George will 
 rejoice at the depeditation of Foote ;" and when I cliallenged that 
 word, laughed, and owned he had made it, and added that he had 
 not made above three or four in kis dictionary .f 
 
 Having conducted Dr. Johnson to our inn, I begged permission 
 to leave him for a little, that I might run about and pay some short 
 
 * Barclay and Perkins's brewbonse, Park-street, Southward, was founded by Henry 
 Thrale, the friend of Dr. Johnson, and sold by Johnson and his brother executor, in 
 behalf ef Mrs. Thrale, for 135,000/. Barclay was a descendant of the famous Barclay, 
 who wrote the "Apology for the Quakers," and Perkins was the chief clerk in Thrale's 
 establishment. The establishment in Park-street is now the largest of ita kind in the 
 world. The buildings extend over ten acres, and the machinery includes two steam- 
 engines. The store-cellars contain 126 vats, varying in their contents from 4000 bar- 
 rels down to -">00. About 160 horses are employed in conveying beer to different parts 
 of London. The quantity brewed in 1826 was 380,180 barrels, upon which a duty of 10s. 
 the barrel, 180,090?., was paid to the revenue ; and in 183/) the malt consumed ex- 
 ceeded 100,000 quarters. (Cunningham's " Hand-book for London.") It is stated in 
 Mr. Charles Knight's " London," that the number of barrels of beer brewed by the 
 twe|ve principal brewers in London was 381,145, in 1782; l,0t>7,231, in 1808; and 
 2,119,447, in 1836. ED. 
 
 t When ii])on the subject of this peregrinity, he told me some particulars concerning 
 the compilation of his Dictionary, and concerning- his throwing off Lord Chesterfield's 
 patronage, of which very erroneous accounts have been circulated. These particulars, 
 with others which he afterwards gave me. as also his celebrated letter to Lord Chester- 
 field, which hedictated to me, 1 reserve for his " Life." BOSWELL. [They will be found 
 in Boswell's " Life of Johnson," under the date of 1754. ED.]
 
 96 
 
 visits to several good people of Inverness. He said to me, " You 
 have all the old-fashioned principles, good and bad." I acknow- 
 ledge I have. That of attention to relations in the remotest degree, 
 or to worthy persons in every state whom I have once known, I 
 inherit from my father. It gave me much satisfaction to hear every- 
 body at Inverness speak of him with uncommon regard. Mr. Keith 
 and Mr. Grant, whom we had seen at Mr. Macaulay's, supped with 
 us at the inn. We had roasted kid, which Dr. Johnson had never 
 tasted before. He relished it much.* 
 
 MONDAY, AUGUST 30. 
 
 This day we were to begin our equitation,^ as I said ; for J would 
 
 * Mr. Grant used to relate that on this occasion Johnson was in high spirits. In the 
 course of conversation he mentioned that Mr. Banks (afterwards Sir Joseph) had, in his 
 travels in New South Wales, discovered an extraordinary animal called the kangaroo. 
 The appearance, conformation, and habits of this quadruped were of the most singular 
 kind ; and in order to render his description more vivid and graphic, Johnson rose from 
 his chair and volunteered an imitation of jthe animal. The company stared ; and Mr. 
 Grant said nothing could be more ludicrous than the appearance of a tall, heavy, grave- 
 looking man, like Dr. Johnson, standing up to mimic the shape and motions of a kan- 
 garoo. He stood erect, put out his hands like feelers, and, gathering up the tails of his 
 huge brown coat so as to resemble the pouch of the animal, made two or three vigorous 
 bounds across the room ! Mr. Grant lived to the great age of eighty-five, and died at 
 Calder Manse, June 28th, 1828. He had been minister of Calder, or Cawdor, for forty- 
 eight years, and was highly esteemed as a divine, and as a fine specimen of an intelligent 
 gentleman of the old school. ED. 
 
 f Or, as Johnson characteristically expresses it, "We were now to bid farewell to 
 the luxury of travelling, and to enter upon a country upon which perhaps no wheel has 
 ever rolled. We could, indeed, have used our postchaise one day longer along the mili- 
 tary road to Fort Augustus, 'but we could have hired no horses beyond Inverness." 
 Things are now changed. The Highland roads, under charge of a parliamentary com- 
 mission, are perhaps the finest in the kingdom, and are yearly travelled by hundreds of 
 tourists. The military roads were constructed between 1726 and 1737. About five hun- 
 dred soldiers, under charge of non-commissioned ^officers, were employed during the 
 summer in the formation of these roads, extra pay being given to them for their labour. 
 The undertaking had been forced upon the Government by the state of the Highlapds 
 in 1715, as at that time the royal army could not penetrate farther into the Highlands than 
 Blair Athole. The old roads were merely the tracks of cattle and horses, intersected by 
 numerous rapid streams, which, being frequently swollen into torrents by heavy rains, 
 Tendered them impassable. The military roads were afterwards found insufficient for 
 the purposes of civil life. They were laid out with other views than commerce and 
 industry, and were often dangerously steep and inconvenient. The road by which John- 
 son travelled to Fort Augustus is partly one of this description ; but the fatigue is com- 
 pensated by the view of the Fall of Foyers, and by miles of beautiful birch trees, which 
 shade the waters of Loch Ness and clothe the sides of the neighbouring mountains. A 
 more convenient road to Fort Augustus and the West Highlands has been made on 
 the opposite bank of Loch Ness. In 1803 Parliament passed an act granting twenty thou- 
 sand "pounds towards making roads and building bridges in the Highlands, and for 
 enabling the proprietors to charge their estates with a proportion of the expense of 
 maintaining the different lines of communication. Subsequent grants were made for 
 the same purpose; and by 1820 no less than 875 miles of roads were made, at a cost to 
 Parliament of 267.000/., to the counties of 214,000?., and .to individual proprietors of
 
 TO THE HEBBIDES. 
 
 J7 
 
 needs make a word too. It is remarkable that my noble and, to me 
 most constant friend, the Earl of Pembroke (who, if there is too 
 much ease on my part, will please to pardon what his benevolent, 
 gay, social intercourse and lively correspondence have insensibly pro- 
 duced) has since hit upon the very same word. The title of the first 
 edition of his lordship's very useful book was, in simple terms, " A 
 Method of Breaking Horses and Teaching Soldiers to Bide." The 
 title of the second edition is " Military Equitation." 
 
 MCII JESS. 
 
 estates of 60.000/. The whole of these lines are now under one management, and are kept 
 \\p at an expense of about lO.OOW. a- year, of which one-half is paid by Government. To 
 complete this interior communication, and to dcvelopc more fully the resources of the 
 Highlands, the Caledonian Canal was also constructed. These improvements, contem- 
 poraneous with sheep husbandry, and the better cultivation of the soil, have vastly 
 increased the value of Highland estates. As an example of this we may cite the estate 
 of Glengarry, a wild, romantic, and once almost inaccessible country, in which feudal 
 manners long remained. This 'property in 1788 did not yield more than 8001. per an- 
 num ; and in fifty years afterwards the rental was 7000/. We shall see other instances 
 of similar increase as we accompany the travellers on their Hebridean journey. ED. 
 
 H
 
 9$ JQtJBNA.L OF A TOUB 
 
 We might have taken a chaise to Fort Augustus, but had we 
 not hired horses at Inverness we should not have found them after- 
 wards, so we resolved to begin here to ride. We had three horses, 
 for Dr. Johnson, myself, and Joseph, and one which carried our 
 portmanteaus, and two Highlanders who walked along with us, John 
 Hay and Lauchlan Vass, whom Dr. Johnson has remembered with 
 credit in his " Journey," though he has omitted their names. Dr. 
 Johnson rode very well. 
 
 About three miles beyond Inverness we saw, just by the road, a 
 very complete s.pecimen of what is called a, Druid's temple. There 
 was a double circle, one of very large, the other of smaller stones. 
 Dr. Johnson justly observed that "to go and see one Druidical 
 temple is only to see that it is nothing, for there is neither art nor 
 power in it ; and seeing one is quite enough." 
 
 It was a delightful day. Loch Ness and the road upon the side 
 of it, shaded with birch-trees, and the hills above it, pleased us much. 
 The scene was as sequestered and agreeably wild as could be desired, 
 and, for a time, engrossed all our attention. 
 
 To see Dr. Johnson in any new situation is always an interesting 
 object to me ; and as I saw him now for the first time on horseback, 
 jaunting about at his ease in quest of pleasure and novelty, the very 
 different occupations of his former laborious life, his admirable pro- 
 ductions, his " London," his " Eambler," &c., &c., immediately pre- 
 sented themselves to my mind, and the contrast made a strong 
 impression on my imagination. 
 
 When we had advanced a good way by the side of Loch Ness I 
 perceived a little hut, with an old-looking woman at the door of it. 
 I thought here might be a scene that would amuse Dr. Johnson, so I 
 mentioned it to him. "Let's go in," said he. We dismounted, and 
 we and our guides entered the hut. It was a wretched little hovel 
 of earth only, I think, and for a window had only a small hole, which 
 was stopped with a piece of turf that was taken out occasionally to 
 let in light. In the middle of the room or space which we entered 
 was a fire of peat, the smoke going out at a hole in the roof; she 
 had a pot upon it, with goat's flesh boiling. There was at one end, 
 under the same roof but divided by a kind of partition made of 
 wattles, a pen or fold, in which we saw a good many kids. 
 
 Dr. Johnson was curious to know where she slept. I asked one 
 of the guides, who questioned her in Erse. She answered, with a 
 tone of emotion, saying, as he told us, she was afraid we wanted to 
 go to bed to her. This coquetry, or whatever it may be called, of 
 so wretched a being, was truly ludicrous. Dr. Johnson and I
 
 TO THE HEBBIDEg. ' & 
 
 afterwards were merry upon it. I said it was ho who alarmfid the 
 poor woman's virtue. "No, sir," said he, " she'll say, There came a 
 wicked young fellow, a wild dog, who I believe would have ravished 
 me, had there not been with him a grave old gentleman who repressed 
 him ; but when he gets out of the sight of his tutor, I'll warrant you 
 he'll spare no woman he meets, young or old." " No, sir," I re- 
 plied," she'll say, There was a terrible ruffian who would have forced 
 me, had it not been for a civil decent young man who, I take it, 
 was an angel sent from heaven to protect me." 
 
 Dr. Johnson would not hurt her delicacy by insisting on " seeing 
 her bedchamber," like Archer, in the " Beaux Stratagem." I3ut my 
 curiosity was more ardent ; I lighted a piece of paper, and went into 
 the place where the bed was. There was a little partition of wicker, 
 rather more neatly done than that for the fold, and close by the 
 wall was a kind of bedstead of wood, with heath upon it by way of 
 bed, at the foot of which I saw some sort of blankets or covering 
 rolled up in a heap. The woman's name was Fraser ; so was her 
 husband's : he was a man of eighty. Mr. Fraser, of Balnain, allows 
 him to live in this hut, and keep sixty goats, for taking care of his 
 woods, where he then was. They had five children, the eldest 
 only thirteen: two were gone to Inverness to buy meal ; the rest 
 were looking after the goats. This contented family had four stacks 
 of barley, twenty-four sheaves in each : they had a few fowls. We 
 were informed that they lived all the spring without meal, upon 
 milk and curds and whey alone. What they get for their goats, 
 kids, and fowls, maintains them during the rest of the year. 
 
 She aeked us to sit down and take a dram ; I saw one chair ; 
 she said she was as happy as any woman in Scotland ; she could 
 hardly speak any English except a few detached words. Dr. John- 
 son was pleased at seeing, for the first time, such a state of human 
 life. She asked for snuff; it is her luxury, and she uses a great 
 deal. We had none ; but gave her sixpence a-piece. She then 
 brought out her whiskey-bottle ; I tasted it, as did Joseph and our 
 guides, so I gave her sixpence more. She sent us away with many 
 prayers in Erse. 
 
 We dined at a public-house called the General's Hut, from 
 General Wade, who was lodged there when he commanded in the 
 North. Near it is the meanest parish kirk I ever saw ; it is a shame 
 it should be on. a high road.* After dinner we passed through a 
 good deal of mountainous country. I had known Mr. Trapaud, the 
 
 * Both the hut and the kirk have been rebuilt, but neither very splendidly. With 
 respect to the General's Hut, Johnson describes it more correctly than Boswell, as 
 " the temporary abode of Wade, while he superintended the works upon the road." ED. 
 
 H 2
 
 100 JOUENAL OF A TOUE 
 
 deputy governor of Fort Augustus, twelve years ago, at a circuit at 
 Inverness, where my father was judge. I sent forward one of our 
 guides, and Joseph, with a card to him, that he might know Dr. 
 Johnson and I Were coming up, leaving it to him to invite us or 
 not. It was dark when we arrived ; the inn was wretched. Govern- 
 ment ought to build one, or give the resident governor on addi- 
 tional salary ; as in the present state of things he must necessarily be 
 put to a great expense in entertaining travellers. Joseph announced 
 to us, when we alighted, that the governor waited for us at the 
 gate of the fort: we walked to it. He met us, and with much 
 civility conducted us to his house. It was comfortable to find 
 ourselves in a well-built little square, and a neatly furnished house, 
 in good company, and with a good supper before us : in short, with 
 all the conveniencies of civilised life in the midst of rude mountains. 
 Mrs. Trapaud, and the governor's daughter, and her husband, 
 Captain Newmarsh, were all most obliging and polite. The governor 
 had excellent animal spirits, the conversation of a soldier, and 
 somewhat of a Frenchman, to which his extraction entitles him. He 
 is brother to General Cyrus Trapaud. We passed a very agreeable 
 evening.* 
 
 TUESDAY, ArGUST 31. 
 
 The governor has a very good garden. We looked at it, and at 
 the rest of the fort, which is but small, and may be commanded 
 from a variety of hills around. We also looked at the galley or 
 sloop belonging to the fort, which sails upon the Loch, and brings 
 what is wanted for the garrison. Captains Urie and Darippe, of the 
 15th regiment of Foot, breakfasted with us. They had served in 
 America, and entertained Dr. Johnson much with an account of the 
 Indians. He said he could make a very pretty book out of them, 
 were he to stay there. Governor Trapaud was much struck with 
 Dr. Johnson. "I like to hear him," said he, " it is so majestic ; I 
 should be glad to hear him speak in your court." He pressed us to 
 stay dinner ; but I considered that we had a rude road before us, 
 which we could more easily encounter in the morning, and that it 
 was hard to say when we might get up were we to sit down to good 
 entertainment, in good company : I therefore begged the governor 
 would excuse us. Here, too, I had another very pleasing proof how 
 
 * Mr. Trapaud died at Fort Augustus, December 2nd, 1796, aged eighty-four. He 
 was aide-de-camp to General Ponsonby at the battle of Fontenoy, and to General Huske 
 at Culloden, where lie was wounded. \S"e may remark that Johnson seems to have 
 enjoyed an unwonted night's rest in the fort; for three years and a half afterwards he 
 enters in his diary that he had passed the previous night in such sweet uninterrupted 
 sleep as lie had not known since he slept at Fort Augustus. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 101 
 
 much my father is regarded. The governor expressed the highest 
 respect for him, and bade me tell him, that if he would come that 
 
 Htf ^fe,. : .l^/" "' 
 ' 
 
 I'OUT AUGUSTtS. 
 
 way on the northern circuit he would do him all the honours of thcr 
 garrison. 
 
 Between twelve and one we set out, and travelled eleven miles 
 through a wild country, till we came to a house in Glenmorison, 
 called Anoch, kept by a Macqueen.* Our landlord was a sensible 
 fellow; he had learned his grammar, and Dr. Johnson justly observed , 
 that " a man is the better for that as long as he lives." There were 
 some books here : a Treatise against Drunkenness, translated from 
 the French ; a volume of the Spectator ; a volume of Prideaux's 
 Connexion, and Cyrus's Travels. Macqueen said he had more 
 volumes ; and his pride seemed to be much piqued that we were sur- 
 prised at his having books. 
 
 Near to this place we had passed a party of soldiers, under a 
 sergeant's command, at work upon the road. We gave them two 
 shillings to drink ; they came to our inn, and made merry in the barn. 
 We went and paid them a visit, Dr. Johnson saying, " Come, let's 
 go and give 'em another shilling a-piece." We did so, and he was 
 saluted "my lord" by all of them. He is really generous, loves 
 influence, and has the way of gaining it. He said, " I am quite 
 feudal, sir." Here I agree with him. I said, I regretted I was 
 
 I A Macqueen is a Highland mode of expression. An Englishman would say one 
 Macqueen. But where there are clans or tribes of men, distinguished by patronymic 
 surnames, the individuals of each are considered as if they were of different species, at 
 least as much as nations are distinguished; so that a Macqueen, a Macdonald, a Mac- 
 lean, is said as we say, a Frenchman, an Italian, a Spaniard. BOSWELL.
 
 1W JOUBNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 not the head of a clan ; however, though not possessed of such an 
 hereditary advantage, I would always endeavour to make my tenants 
 follow me. I could not be a patriarchal chief, but I would be a 
 feudal chief. 
 
 The poor soldiers got too much liquor ; some of them fought and 
 left blood upon the spot, and cursed whiskey next morning. The 
 house here was built, of thick turfs, and thatched with thinner 
 turfs and heath ; it had three rooms in length, and a little room 
 which projected. Where we sat, the side-walls were wainscoted, 
 as Dr. Johnsrin Said, with wicker, very neatly plaited : our landlord 
 had made the whole with his own hands. 
 
 After dinner, Macqueen sat by us awhile, and talked with us ; 
 he said all the laird of &lenmorison's people would bleed for, him, 
 if they were well used, but that seventy men had gone out of the 
 glen to America ; that he himself intended to go next year, for that 
 the rent of his farm, which twenty years ago was only five pounds, 
 was now raised to' twenty pounds; that lie. could pay ten pounds 
 and live, but no more. Dr. Johnson said, he wished Macqueen 
 laird of Glenmorison, and the laird to go to America. Macqueen 
 very generously answered, he should be sorry for it, for the laird 
 could not shift for himself in America as he could do.* 
 
 * Glenmoriston affords one of the first of Johnson's Highland pictures. He was now 
 fairly in the mountain territory, remote from towns, and amidst a strange people and 
 strange modes of life. His innkeeper at Anoch was the type of a class original and dis- 
 tinct, but now almost gone. Macqueen was a gentleman of the old Highland stamp, who 
 considered himself a public benefactor by condescending to keep a change-house. He 
 was married to a laird's daughter, and could both read Latin and write Celtic poetry. 
 He was famous in the glen for his ready wit and his talent at telling a story or rehearsing 
 a legend. Still he kept a sharp eye on the main chance ; and he grumbled because his 
 farm was too dear. He paid twenty pounds of rent ; aiid he told Johnson that he kept 
 one hundred sheep, as many goats, twelve milch cows, and twenty-eight beeves, ready 
 for the drover. He had also a considerable range of hill-ground, capable of grazing from 
 fifty to sixty cattle in summer ; and it was generally let to the low-country farmers 
 about Inverness and Js'airnshire. In addition to the land he had the advantage of the 
 inn not great, perhaps, yet the road through Glenmoriston was the main artery of com- 
 munication with the West Highlands and islands, and the inn at Anoch was a drove- 
 stance or resting-place for the cattle going south from Skye. On the whole, Macqueen 
 could not have had a very bad bargain, and the farm, without any inn attached to it, 
 now lets for about seventy pounds. Part of the cottage walls, which serve as an in- 
 elosure fer the sheep at shearing-time, mark the site of the old hostelrie. Macqueen did 
 not carry out his intention of going to America. He lived at Anoch fifteen years after 
 his entertainment of the olla Sassenach, or jolly Englishman, as he used to call Johnson. 
 He then removed to Dalcataig, another farm in the neighbourhood, and survived till 
 past ninety. His pretty daughter, who made tea for the travellers, became Mrs. Mack- 
 intosh, wife of a watchmaker iu Morayshire, and died without issue. With respect to 
 the laird of Glenmoriston, long since gathered to his fathers, but whom the too-ready 
 tongue of Macqueen has condemned to an immortality of odium, we believe that serious 
 injustice has been done. Johnson states his rental to have been 40W. per annum, or 
 three halfpence an acre. It was only about 300?. ; and, in order to keep his people on the
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 103 
 
 I talked of the officers whom we had left to-day, how much service 
 they had seen, and how little they got for it, even of fame. JOHN- 
 SON : " Sir, a soldier gets as little as any man can get." BOSWELL : 
 " Goldsmith has acquired more fame than all the officers last war 
 who were not generals." JOHNSON : " Why, sir, you will find ten 
 thousand fit to do what they did, before you find one who does what 
 Goldsmith has done ; you must consider that a thing is valued 
 according to its rarity. A pebble that paves the street is in itself 
 more useful than the diamond upon a lady's finger." J wish our 
 friend Goldsmith had heard this. 
 
 I yesterday expressed my wonder that John Hay, one of our 
 guides, who had been pressed a-board a man-of-war, did not choose 
 to continue in it longer than nine months, after which time he got 
 off. JOHNSON : " Why, sir, no man will be a sailor who has con- 
 trivance enough to get himself into a gaol ; for being in a ship is 
 being in a gaol, with the chance of being drowned." 
 
 We had tea in the afternoon, and our landlord's daughter, a 
 modest civil girl, very neatly dressed, made it for us ; she told us 
 that she had been a year at Inverness, and learnt reading and writing, 
 sewing, knitting, working lace, and pastry. Dr. Johnson made her 
 a present of a book which he had bought at Inverness.* 
 
 estate, the poor laird had offered to the tacksmen, who were all relations of his own, 
 leases of their farms for periods of nineteen, thirty-eight, or fifty-seven years, at the 
 former rent, nearly the whole of which was paid to them by their sub-tenants. The 
 tacksmen, or gentlemen-Jarmers.by this sub-letting enjoyed their own possessions almost 
 rent free. None of them, however, would remain in the country. A rage for emigration 
 then prevailed, and some of their fri,ends who had fled to America after the affair of the 
 ^45 (in which laird and tenants were engaged), returned with such glowing accounts 
 of the western world that all resolved to go and partake of the golden shower. The 
 ijlen was left half desolate, and the laird was obliged to accept such tenants (Macqueen 
 among the number) as presented themselves from other districts. Few of the Highland 
 farmers on the mainland then kept sheep excepting in small numbers, that could be 
 watched all day and housed at night. Foxes were so numerous that sheep were not safe 
 d'n the hills. The practice was to graze the working oxen of the low-country farmers, 
 Which were sent to the hills in May, when labour was over, and taken back again at the 
 fall of the season. Such of the tenants as did not follow this system usually kept a 
 number of mares wild animals that were never housed or handled from which they 
 reared garrons, or rough horses, and Highland ponies. The latter were spirited beasts, 
 sure-footed as Spanish mules, and sold readily at the great Inverness Mary-mass fair. 
 This fair used to last a whole week. Every marketable commodity from John o'Groat's 
 to the Corran of Ardgour horses, timber, bark, staves, wearing-apparel, and provisions 
 was there bought and sold. At length sheep were generally introduced ; fox-hunters 
 were established in every district ; and the sheep multiplied so fast that no other kind 
 Of stock or produce paid the farmer so well. The rent of Gleninoriston, which eighty 
 years since was only 3001., gradually rose to 2.400/., the present rental ; and the grand- 
 son of the unfortunate laird of 1773 sees around him in 1852 a happy and prosperous 
 tenantry, every one of whom was born in the glen. ED. 
 
 * This book has given rise to much inquiry, which has ended in ludicrou* surprise. 
 Several ladies, wishing to learn the kind of reading which the great and good
 
 104 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 The room had some deals laid across the joists, as a kind of ceiling. 
 There were two beds in the room, and a woman's gown was hung on 
 a rope to make a curtain of separation between them. Joseph had 
 sheets, which my wife had sent with us, laid on them. We had 
 much hesitation, whether to undress, or lie down with our clothes 
 on. I said at last, " I'll plunge in ! There will be less harbour for 
 vermin about ine when I am stripped !" Dr. Johnson said, lie was 
 like one hesitating whether to go into the cold bath. At last he re- 
 solved too. I observed he might serve a campaign. JOHNSON : " I 
 could do all that can be done by patience ; whether I should have 
 strength enough I know not." 
 
 He was in excellent humour. To see the Hambler as I saw him 
 to-night was really an amusement. I yesterday told him I was 
 thinking of writing a poetical letter to him, On his return from Scot- 
 land, in the style of Swift's [Pope's] humorous epistle in the character 
 of Mary Gulliver to her husband, Captain Lemuel Gulliver, on his 
 return to England from the country of the Houyhnhnms : 
 
 " At early morn I to the market haste, 
 Studious in everything to please thy taste, 
 A curious/OK 1 / and sparayrass I chose ; 
 For I remembered you were fond of those : 
 Three shillings cost the first, the last seven groats ; 
 Sullen you turn from both, and call for OATS." 
 
 He laughed, and asked in whose name I would write it. I said in 
 Mrs. Thrale's. He was angry. " Sir, if you .have any sense of 
 decency or delicacy you won't do that!" BOSWELL : "Then let it 
 be in Cole's, the landlord of the Mitre tavern, where we have so 
 often sat together." JOHNSON : "Ay, that may do." 
 
 After we had offered up our private devotions, and had chatted a 
 little from our beds, Dr. Johnson said, " God bless us both, for Jesus 
 
 Dr. Johnson esteemed most fit for young women, desired to know what book lie had 
 selected for this Highland nymph. " They never adverted," said he, " that I had no 
 choice in the matter. I have said that I presented her with a book which I happened to 
 have about me." And what was this book ? My readers, prepare your features for 
 merriment. It was " Cocker's Arithmetic !" Wherever this was mentioned, there 
 was a loud laugh, at which Dr. Johnson, when present, used sometimes to be a little 
 angry. One day, when we were dining at General Oglethorpe'g, whtre we had many a 
 valuable day, I ventured to interrogate him. " But, sir, is it not somewhat singular 
 that you should happen to have ' Cocker's Arithmetic' about you on your journey J 
 What made you buy such a book at Inverness'!" He gave me a very sufficient answer. 
 " Why, sir, if you are to have but one book with you upon a journey, let it be a book of 
 science. When you have read through a book of entertainment, you know it, and it can 
 do no more for you ; but a book of science is inexhaustible." BOSWELL. 
 
 [The book was long kept with care, but is now lost. The person who waited upon 
 Johnson in the Inverness bookseller's shop, a young woman, showed him some tune 
 u-orks. One of these was " The Rambler," at which he seemed much pleased. La.]
 
 TO THE HEBEIDES. 100 
 
 Christ's sake! Good night!" I pronounced "Amen." He fell 
 asleep immediately. I was not so fortunate for a long time. I 
 fancied myself .bit by innumerable vermin under the clothes, and 
 that a spider was travelling from the wainscot towards my mouth. 
 At last I fell into insensibility. 
 
 WEDNESDAY. SEPTEMBER 1. 
 
 I awaked very early. I began to imagine that the landlord, being 
 about to emigrate, might murder us to get our money, and lay it 
 upon the soldiers in the barn. Such groundless fears will arise in the 
 mind before it has resumed its vigour after sleep ! Dr. Johnson had 
 had the same kind of ideas ; for he told me afterwards, that he con- 
 sidered so many soldiers having seen us would be witnesses, should 
 any harm be done, and that circumstance, I suppose, he considered 
 as a security. When I got up, I found him sound asleep in his 
 miserable stye, as I may call it, with a coloured handkerchief tied 
 round his head. With difficulty could I awaken him. It reminded 
 me of Henry the Fourth's fine soliloquy on sleep ; for there was here 
 as uneasy a pallet as the poet's imagination could possibly conceive.* 
 
 A redcoat of the 15th Regiment, whether officer or only sergeant 
 I could not be sure, came to the house, in his way to the mountains 
 to shoot deer, which it seems the Laird of Glenmorison does not 
 hinder anybody to do. Few, indeed, can do them harm. We had 
 him to breakfast with us. We got away about eight. Macqueen 
 walked some miles to give us a convoy. He had, in 1745, joined the 
 Highland army at Fort Augustus, and continued in it till after the 
 battle of Culloden. As he narrated the particulars of that ill-advised 
 but brave attempt, I could not refrain from tears. There is a certain 
 association of ideas in my mind upon that subject by which I am 
 strongly affected. The very Highland names, or the sound of a 
 bagpipe, will stir my blood, and fill me with a mixture of melancholy 
 and respect for courage ; with pity for an unfortunate and supersti- 
 tious regard for antiquity, and thoughtless inclination for war ; in 
 short, with a crowd of sensations with which sober rationality has 
 nothing to do. 
 
 * " O Bleep ! O gentle Bleep ! 
 Nature's soft nurse, how have I frighted thee, 
 That thou no wore wilt weigh my eyelids down, 
 And steep my senses in forgetf illness ? 
 Why rather, sleep, liest thou in smoky cribs, 
 Upon uneasy pallets stretching thee, 
 And hushed with buzzing night~flies to thy slumber, 
 Than in the perfumed chambers of the great, 
 Under the canopies of costly state, 
 And lulled with sound of sweetest melody ?" 
 
 SECOND PAKT OF KINO HENRY IV., ACT. III., Sc. 1.
 
 UK JOtJBNAL OF A TOtTB 
 
 We passed through Glensheal, with prodigious mountains on each 
 side. We saw where the battle was fought in the year 1719.* Dr. 
 Johnson owned he was now in a scene of as wild nature as he could 
 see ; but he corrected me sometimes in my inaccurate observations. 
 " There," said I, " is a mountain like a cone." JOHNSON : " No, sir. It 
 would be called so in a book, but when a man comes to look at it he 
 sees it is not so. It is indeed pointed at the top, but one side of it is 
 larger than the other." Another mountain I called immense. JOHN- 
 SON : " No ; it is no more than a considerable protuberance." 
 
 We came to a rich green valley, comparatively speaking, and 
 stopped a while to let our horses rest and eat grass.f We soon after- 
 wards came to Auchnasheal, a kind of rural village, a number of 
 cottages being built together, as we saw all along in the Highlands. 
 We passed many miles this day without seeing a house, but only 
 little summer huts, called shielings. Even Campbell, servant to Mr. 
 Murchison, factor to the Laird of Macleod in Glenelg, ran along 
 
 * An indecisive effort, in favour of the exiled family, which was speedily extin- 
 guished. The insurgents were led by the Earl of Seaforth, and consisted of a number 
 of the men of Kintail and Lewis, witk about three hundred Spanish auxiliaries. The 
 royalist force was commanded by General Wightman. The result was favourable to 
 Seaforth, but not such as to induce him to continue the contest. The Chief of the Mac- 
 kenzies, it is said, had borrowed for the day the services of a friendly clan, on condition 
 that, hewever the battle went, they should return next morning; "this occasional 
 assistance being only regarded in the light of a neighbourly accommodation to Lord 
 Seaforth." (SCOTT.) A curious specimen of feudal politeness ! The Earl, who was 
 wounded in the action, escaped to Spain. Sir Walter Scott has given a version of a 
 famous farewell song, composed by Seaforth's family bard, on the occasion of his 
 'departure after the battle of Glensheal: 
 
 " For a far foreign land he has hoisted his sail, 
 
 Farewell to Mackenzie, High Chief of Kiutail !" 
 
 The Earl was pardoned, and George II. made him a grant of the feu-duties due to the 
 Crown out of his forfeited estate. This unwonted show of generosity was the less impor- 
 tant, as the tenants, with clannish fidelity, had secretly conveyed their rents to the Earl 
 in Spain. ED. 
 
 f Dr. Johnson, in his ."Journey," thus beautifully describes his situation hereto 
 " I sat down on a bank, such as a writer of romance might have delighted to feign. It 
 had, indeed, no trees to whisper over my head ; but a clear rivulet streamed at my feet. 
 The day was calm, the air soft, and all was rudeness, silence, and solitude. Before 
 me, and on either side, were high hills, which, by hindering the eye from ranging, 
 forced the mind to find entertainment for itself. Whether I spent the hour well, I know 
 not; for here I first conceived the thought of this narration." The Critical Reviewers, 
 with a spirit and expression worthy of the subject, say, " We congratulate the public on 
 the event with which this quotation concludes, and are fully persuaded that the hour 
 in which the entertaining traveller conceived this narrative will be considered, by every 
 reader of taste, as a fortunate event in the annals of literature. "Were it suitable to the 
 task in which we are at present engaged to indulge ourselves in a poetical flight, we 
 would invoke the winds of the Caledonian mountains to blow for ever, with their softest 
 breezes, on the bank where our author reclined, and request of Flora that it might be 
 perpetually adorned with the gayest and most fragrant productions of the year." 
 BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBBIDE8. .107 
 
 with us to-day. He was a very obliging fellow. At Auclmasheal, 
 . we sat down on a green turf seat at the end of a house ; they brought 
 us out two wooden dishes of milk, which we tasted. One of them 
 was frothed like a syllabub. I saw a woman preparing it with such 
 a stick as is, used for chocolate, and in. the same manner. We had 
 a considerable circle about us, men, women and children, all Macraes,* 
 Lord Seaforth's people. !Xot one of them could speak English. I 
 observed tq Dr. Johnson it was much the same as being with a tribe 
 of Indians. . " Yes, sir ; but not so terrifying." I gave all who chose 
 it snuff and tobacco. Governor Trapaud had made us buy a quantity 
 at Fort. Augustus, and put them up in small parcels. I also gave 
 each person a bit of wheat bread, which they had never tasted 
 before. I then gave a penny a-piece to each child. I told Dr. 
 Johnson of this ; upon which he called to Joseph and our guides 
 for change for a shilling, and declared that he would distribute 
 among the children. Upon this boing announced in Erse there was 
 a great stir ; not only did some children come miming down from 
 neighbouring huts, but I observed one black-haired man, who had 
 been with us all along, had gone off, and returned, bringing a very 
 young child. My fellow-traveller then ordered the children to he 
 drawn up in a row ; and he dealt about his copper, and made them 
 and their parents all happy. The poor Macraes, whatever may be 
 their present state, were of considerable estimation in the year 1715, 
 when there was a line in a song, 
 
 "And a' the brave M'Craas are coming."f 
 
 * Boswell spells the name " M'Craa;" Johnson " Macrae ;" the latter is the usual or- 
 thography. The Macraes are said to have come originally from Ireland, about the middle 
 of the 13th century. Dr. George Mackenzie, -who has written a genealogical account 
 of the Mackenzies, mentions that when Colin Fitzgerald, the founder of the Mac- 
 kenzies, came from Ireland, in the year 1263, a number of the Macraes were of his 
 party in the battle of Largs, which is presumed to be in consequence of a friendly 
 attachment then known to have subsisted between them and their ancestors. At what 
 period they removed to Kintail from the Aird, near Beonly, where tradition first places 
 them, is not known; but it is stated, that "they were earnestly invited thither by 
 Mackenzie, who had then no kindred of his blood the first six barons or lairds of 
 Kintail having each bat one lawful son to succeed the other." They accordingly did 
 remove to Kintail, and they continued ever after to be the firmest adherents of the 
 family of Mackenzie of Seaforth. In the sixteenth century the Macraes possessed 
 almost the whole of Kintail in wadset, or redeemable mortgage. They served the 
 Mackenzies in every quarrel with the neighbouring clans, and seem never to have had 
 a chief of their own. ED. ; 
 
 + The M'Craas, or Macraes, were since that time brought into the king's army by 
 Lord Seaforth. "When they lay in Edinburgh Castle, in 1778, and were ordered to 
 embark for Jersey, they, with a number of other men in the regiment, for different 
 reasons, but especially an apprehension that they were to be sold to the East India 
 Company, though enlisted not to be sent out of Great Britain without their own con- 
 sent, made a determined mutiny, and encamped upon the lofty mountain, Arthur's
 
 108 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOTJE 
 
 There was great diversity in the faces of the circle around us . 
 some were as black and wild in their appearance as any American 
 
 1SD CHILDREN. 
 
 savages whatever. One woman was as comely almost as the figure 
 of Sappho, as we see it painted. We asked the old woman, the mis- 
 tress of the house where we had the milk (which, by the bye, Dr. 
 Johnson told me, for I did not observe it myself, was built not of 
 turf but of stone), what we should pay. She said, " what we pleased." 
 One of our guides asked her in Erse if a shilling was enough. She 
 said " Yes ;" but some of the men bade her ask more. This vexed 
 me, because it showed a desire to impose upon strangers, as they 
 
 Seat, where they remained three days and three nights, bidding defiance to all the force 
 in .Scotland. At last they came down, and embarked peaceably, having obtained 
 formal articles of capitulation, signed by Sir Adolphus Oughton, Commander-in-Chief, 
 Geneial Skene, Deputy-Commander, the Duke of Buccleugh, and the Earl of Dunmore, 
 which quieted them. Since the secession of the Commons of Borne to the Mons Sacer, 
 a more spirited exertion has net been made. I gave great attention to it from first to 
 last, and have drawn up a. particular account of it. Those brave fellows have since 
 served their country effectually at Jersey, and also in the East Indies, to which, after 
 being better informed, they voluntarily agreed to go. BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBKIDES. 109 
 
 knew that oven a shilling was high payment. The woman, however, 
 honestly persisted in her first Tprice, so I gave her half-a-crown ; 
 thus we had one good scene of life uncommon to us. The people 
 were very much pleased, gave us many blessings, and said, " they had 
 not had such a day since the old Laird of Macleod's time." 
 
 Dr. Johnson was much refreshed by this repast. He was pleased 
 when I told him he would make a good chief. He said, " Were I 
 a chief, I would dress my servants better than myself, and knock a 
 fellow down if he looked saucy to a Macdonald in rags. But I would 
 not treat men as brutes ; I would let them know why all of my clan 
 were to have attention paid to them ; I would tell my upper servants 
 why, and make them tell the others." 
 
 "We rode on well till we came to the high mountain called the 
 Kattakin, by which time both Dr. Johnson and the horses were a good 
 deal fatigued. It is a terrible steep to climb, notwithstanding the 
 road is formed slanting along it ; however, we made it out. On the 
 top of it we met Captain Macleod, of Balmenoch (a Dutch officer 
 who had come from Sky), riding with his sword slung across him. 
 He asked, " Is this Mr. BoswellP" which was a proof that we were 
 expected. Going down the hill on the other side was no easy task. 
 As Dr. Johnson was a great weight, the two guides agreed that he 
 should ride the horses alternately. Hay's were the two best, and 
 the Doctor would not ride but upon one or other of them, a black or 
 a brown ; but as Hay complained much after ascending the Hattakin, 
 the Doctor was prevailed with to mount one of Vass's greys. As he 
 rode upon it down hill, it did not go well, and he grumbled ; I walked 
 on a little before, but was excessively entertained with the method 
 taken to keep him" in good humour. Hay led the horse's head, talk- 
 ing to Dr. Johnson as much as he could, and (having heard him in. 
 the forenoon express a pastoral pleasure on seeing the goats browsing) 
 just when the Doctor was uttering his displeasure, the fellow cried 
 with a veiy Highland accent, " See, such pretty goats !" Then he 
 whistled, wliu ! and made them jump. Little did he conceive what 
 Dr. Johnson was. Here, now, was a ''common ignorant Highland 
 clown imagining that he could divert, as one does a child, Dr. 
 Samuel Johnson ! The ludicrousness, absurdity, and extraordinary 
 contrast between what the fellow fancied and the reality was truly 
 comic. 
 
 It grew dusky, and we had a very tedious ride for what was 
 called live miles, but I am sure would measure ten. We had no con- 
 versation. I was riding forward to the inn at Glenelg, on the shore 
 opposite to Sky, that I might take proper measures before Dr. John- 
 son, who was now advancing in dreary silence, Hay leading his horse,
 
 no 
 
 should arrive. Vass also walked by the side of liis horse, and Joseph ' 
 followed behind ; as therefore he was thus attended, and seemed to be 
 in deep meditation, I thought there could be no harm in leaving him 
 for a little while. He called me back with a tremendous shout, and 
 was really in a passion with me for leaving him. I told him my 
 intentions, but he was not satisfied, and said, "Do you know, I 
 should as soon have thought of picking a pocket as doing so." BOS- 
 WELL : " I am diverted with you, sir." JOHXSON : " Sir, I could" 
 never be diverted with incivility ; doing such a thing makes one lose 
 confidence in him who has done it, as one cannot tell what he may 1 
 do'next." His extraordinary warmth confounded me so much that 
 I justified myself but lamely to him, yet my intentions were not im- 
 proper. I wished to get on to see how we were to be lodged, and 
 how we were to get a boat all which I thought I could best settle 
 myself without his having any trouble. To apply his great mind to 
 minute partiexilars is wrong : it is like taking an immense balance, 
 such as is kept on quays for weighing cargoes of ships, to weigh 
 a guinea. I knew I had neat little scales which would do better, and 
 that his attention to everything which falls in his way, and his un- 
 common desire to be always in the right, would make him weigh if 
 he knew of the particulars : it was right, therefore, for me to weigh 
 them, and let him have them only in effect. J, however, continued 
 to ride by him, finding he wished I should do so. 
 
 As we passed the barracks at Bernera I looked at them wishfully, 
 as soldiers have always everything in the best order ; but there was 
 only a sergeant and a few men there. We came on to the inn at 
 Glenelg. There was no provender for our horses, so they were sent 
 to grass, with a man to watch them. A maid showed us up-stairs 
 into a room damp and dirty, with bare walls, a variety of bad smells, 
 a coarse black greasy fir table, and forms of the same kind ; and out 
 of a wretched bed started a fellow from his sleep, like Edgar in 
 " King Lear:" " Poor Tom's a-cold." * 
 
 Tliis inn was furnished with not a single article that we could 
 either eat or drink ; but Mr. Marchison, factor to the Laird of Mac- 
 leod, in Grlenelg, sent us a bottle of rum and some sugar, with a 
 polite message, to acquaint us, that he was very sorry that he did 
 not hear of us till we had passed his house, otherwise he should 
 have insisted on our sleeping there that night ; and that if he were 
 not obliged to set out for Inverness early next morning he would 
 have waited upon us. Such extraordinary attention from this gentle- 
 man to entire strangers deserves the most honourable commemoration. 
 
 t It is amusing to observe the different images which this being presented to Dr. 
 Johnson and me. The Doctor, in his Journey, compares him to a Cyclops, BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBBIDES. 111. 
 
 Our bad accommodation here made me uneasy and almost fretful. 
 Dr. Johnson was calm. I said he was so from vanity. JOHNSON : 
 " No, sir, it is from philosophy." It pleased me to see that the 
 Rambler could practise so well his own lessons. 
 
 I resumed the subject of my leaving him on the road, and endea- 
 voured to defend it better. He was still violent upon that head, 
 and said, " Sir, had you gojie on, I was thinking that I should have 
 returned with you to Edinburgh, and then have parted from you, 
 and never spoken to you more." 
 
 I sent for fresh hay, with which we made beds for ourselves, each, 
 in a room equally miserable. Like Wolfe, we had " a choice of 
 difficulties."* Dr. Johnson made things easier by comparison. At 
 Macqueen's, last night, he observed, that few were so well lodged 
 in a. ship. To-night, he said, we were better than if we had been 
 upon the hill. He lay down buttoned up in his great coat ; I had 
 my sheets spread on the hay, and my clothes and great coat laid 
 over me by way of blankets. 
 
 THUBSDAr, SEPTEMBER 2. 
 
 I had slept ill. Dr. Johnson's anger had affected me much. I 
 considered that without any bad intention I might suddenly forfeit 
 his friendship, and was impatient to see him this morning. I told 
 him how uneasy he had made me by what he had said, and reminded 
 him of his own remark at Aberdeen, upon okl friendships being 
 hastily broken off. He owned he had spoken to me in a passion ; 
 that he would not have done what he threatened ; and that if he had 
 he should have been ten times worse than I ; that forming intimacies 
 would indeed be " limning the water," were they liable to such sud- 
 den dissolution ; and he added, " Let's think, no more on't." 
 BOSWELL : " Well, then, sir, I shall be easy ; remember I am to have 
 fair warning in case of any quarrel ; you are never to spring a mine 
 upon me ; it was absurd in me to believe you." JOHNSON: "You 
 deserved about as much as to believe me from night to morning." 
 
 After breakfast, we got into a boat for Sky. It rained much 
 when we set-off, but cleared up as we advanced. One of the boat- 
 men, who spoke English, said, that a mile at land was two miles at 
 sea. I then observed, that from Glenelg to Armidale, in Sky, 
 which was our present course, and is called twelve, was only six 
 
 * In his despatch to Mr. Titt, September 2nd, 1759, after his failure on the Montmo-r 
 rency river, his spirit crushed by disappointment, anxiety, and ill-health, General Wolfe 
 used the expression, " There is such a choice of difficulties that I own myself at a loss 
 how to determine." The phrase " choice of difficulties," was original, and attracted 
 much attention at the time. A few days afterwards, Wolfe nobly redeemed himself, 
 though at the cost of his life. ED.
 
 113 
 
 JOTTBNAL OF A TOTJB 
 
 miles ; but this he could not understand. " Well," said Dr. John- 
 son, "never talk to me of the native good sense of the Highlanders. 
 Here is a fellow who calls one mile two, and yet cannot comprehend 
 that twelve such imaginary miles make in truth but six."* 
 
 We reached the shore of Armidale before one o'clock. Sir Alex- 
 ander Macdonald came down to receive us. He and his lady 
 (formerly Miss Bosville, of Yorkshire), were then in a house built 
 by a tenant at this place, which is in the district of Slate [Sleat] 
 the family mansion here having been burned in Sir Donald Mac- 
 donald's time. 
 
 The most ancient seat of the chief of the Macdonalda in the Isle 
 of Sky was at Duntulm, where there are the remains of a stately 
 castle.f The principal residence of the family is now at Mugstot, at 
 which there is a considerable building. Sir Alexander and Lady 
 Macdonald had come to Armidale, on their way to Edinburgh, where 
 it was necessary for them to be soon after this time. 
 
 Armidale is situated on a pretty bay of the narrow sea which 
 flows between the mainland of Scotland and the Isle of Sky. In 
 
 * The boatman must have referred only to the fact that distance at sea, and parti- 
 cularly where the sea runs between high lands, is nearly twice as great as it appears to 
 be ; and all he meant to say, in his broken English, was, that an apparent distance, which 
 would prove only one mile on land, would be found to be two miles at sea. ED. 
 
 t Said to have been the residence of David, ene of the most powerful of the Vikingr, 
 or piratical kings, who invaded the island. It was called David's Fort, and was occu- 
 pied as a residence by the chiefs of Macdonald so late as 1715. Near the ruins is an 
 eminence called the Hill of Pleas, on which the chiefs used to sit in state, dispensing 
 justice and determining differences among their people. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBBIDES. 113 
 
 front there is a grand prospect of (be rude mountains Moidart and 
 Knoidart. Behind are hills gently rising, and covered with a finer 
 verdure than I expected to see in this climate, and the scene is en- 
 livened by a number of little clear brooks. 
 
 Sir Alexander Macdonald having been an Eton scholar,* and 
 being a gentleman of talents, Dr. Johnson had been very well pleased 
 with him in London. But my fellow-traveller and I were now full 
 of the old Highland spirit, and were dissatisfied at hearing of racked 
 rents and emigration, and finding a chief not surrounded by his 
 clan.f Dr. Johnson said, " Sir, the Highland chiefs should not be 
 
 See his Latin verses, addressed to Dr. Johnson, in the Appendix. BOSWELL. 
 t In his first edition Boswell had remarked, " Instead of finding the head of the Mac- 
 donalds surrounded with his clan and a festive entertainment, we had a small company, 
 and cannot boast of our cheer." Johnson, in his letters to Mrs. Thrale, is also loud in 
 his condemnation of Sir Alexander Macdonald. Sir Alexander was perhaps retrenching. 
 A few months previous we find him giving a grand masked ball in his house at Edin- 
 burgh to about seventy persons of quality and distinction, who assembled at seven 
 o'clock, and were all dismissed by about three next morning ! Johnson complains that 
 at Armidale Sir Alexander had no cook, nor much provision ; nor had the lady the com- 
 mon decencies of her tea-table, as they picked up their suj-ar with their fingers ! The 
 chief himself writes complacently of his reception of the strangers. The following is a 
 copy of a letter addressed by him to Mr. Macpherson, the translator of Ossian : 
 
 " London, 5th June, 1774. 
 
 " SIR, The annexed congratulatory Ode was written and presented by me to Mr. 
 Samuel Johnson the day of his arriving at my house. I had assembled some of my 
 Iriends to welcome him when he landed. From my windows he viewed the ocean ; 
 he trembled for the distress of the small boats which were fishing, and likely to be 
 overwhelmed in the gulf a sight unusual to him, a station frequently experienced by 
 them. I wish my time and my abilities had been such as to have permitted and enabled 
 me to have conducted and placed you on the right hand of Fingal when we trod the 
 hallowed mansions of .the hero. A sketch drawn by me is unworthy of your acceptance, 
 whose genius is above my capacity, and unnecessary, as your pencil has already made 
 our every sense of feeling to catch the fire and glow with the warmth of perfection ! I 
 am, with the greatest pride in ranking myself amid your admirers, dear Sir, your most 
 humble sen-ant, "ALEX. MACDONALD. 
 
 " James Macpherson, Esq., London." 
 
 This epistle is worthy of the Ode, and completes the picture drawn by Boswell ! We 
 are indebted to Sir David Brewster for a copy of the letter. Sir David possesses most 
 of the papers left by his distinguished father-in-law, Mr. Macpherson, and we may 
 remark that there is no document in the collection that throws any light on the Ossianic 
 controversy. Macpherson appears to have been the author of some verses published in 
 1782, in consequence of a report that Johnson was to be married to Mrs. Thrale. They 
 are dated Brighton, November 4th, 1782, and are intended to ridicule the scsquipedalia 
 rerba of Johnson ; but the imitation is extravagant and indelicate. Armidale, or Arma- 
 dale, the scene of Johnson's ungracious introduction to the Hebrides, has, from the 
 amenity of its situation, been chosen as the residence of the Macdonald family in Skyc. 
 A fine modern building, in the Gothic style, was erected there by Lord Macdonald 
 about the year 1816. In a window in the staircase is a portrait in stained glass of the 
 famous Somerled, Lord of the Isles, the founder of the family, and who held, about the 
 middle of the twelfth century, a wild independent sovereignty in the Hebrides. Sir 
 Alexander Macdonald was elevated to the peerage in 1777, under the title of Baron 
 Macdonald of Sleat, county of Antrim. He died September 12th, 1759. ED. 
 
 I
 
 1!4 JOURNAL OF A TOUB 
 
 allowed to go further south than Aberdeen. A strong-minded man 
 like Sir James Macdonald may be improved by an English education, 
 but in general they will be tamed into insignificance." 
 
 We found here Mr. Janes, of Aberdeenshire, a naturalist. Janes 
 said he had been at Dr. Johnson's, in London, with Ferguson, the 
 astronomer. JOHNSON : " It is strange that, in such distant places, 
 I should meet with any one who knows me. I should have thought 
 I might hide myself in Sky." 
 
 FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 3. 
 
 This day proving wet, we should have passed our time very un- 
 comfortably, had we not found in the house two chests of books, 
 which we eagerly ransacked. After dinner, when I alone was left 
 at table with the few Highland gentlemen who were of the company, 
 having talked with very high respect of Sir James Macdonald, they 
 were all so much affected as to shed tears. One of them was Mr. 
 Donald Macdonald, who had been lieutenant of grenadiers, in the 
 Highland regiment raised by Colonel Montgomery, now Earl of 
 Eglintoun, in the war before last, one of those regiments which the 
 late Lord Chatham prided himself in having brought from " the 
 mountains of the north ;" by doing which he contributed to extin- 
 guish in the Highlands the remains of disaffection to the present 
 Royal Family. From this gentleman's conversation I first learnt 
 how very popular his Colonel was among the Highlanders ; of which 
 I had such continued proofs, during the whole course of my tour, 
 that on my return I could not help telling the noble Earl himself 
 that I did not before know how great a man he was. 
 
 We were advised by some persons here to visit Rasa}*, in our 
 way to Dunvegan, the seat of the Laird of Macleod. Being informed 
 that the Rev. Mr. Donald Macqueen was the most intelligent man 
 in Sky, and having been favoured with a letter of introduction to 
 him by the learned Sir James Foulis, I sent it to him by an express, 
 and requested he would meet us at Kasay : and at the same time 
 inclosed a letter for the Laird of Macleod, informing him that we 
 intended in a few days to have the honour of waiting on him at 
 Dunvegan. 
 
 Dr. Johnson this day endeavoured to obtain some knowledge of 
 the state of the country; but complained that he could get no distinct 
 information about anything from those with whom he conversed. 
 
 SATUBDAY, SEPTEMBER 4. 
 
 My endeavours to rouse the English-bred chieftain, in whose 
 house we were, to the feudal and patriarchal feelings, proving in- 
 effectual, Dr. Johnson this morning tried to bring him to our way
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 115 
 
 of thinking. JOHNSON : " Were I in your place, sir, in seven years 
 I would make this aii independent island. I would roast oxen 
 whole, and hang out a flag as a signal to the Macdonalds to come 
 and get beef and whiskey." Sir Alexander was still starting diffi- 
 culties. JOHSSON: "Nay, sir; if you are born to object I have 
 done with you. Sir, I would have a magazine of arms." Sir 
 ALEXANDER : " They would rust." JOHNSON : " Let there be men 
 to keep them clean. Your ancestors did not use to let their arms 
 rust." 
 
 We attempted in vain to communicate to him a portion of our 
 enthusiasm. He bore with so polite a good-nature our warm, and 
 what some might call Gothic expostulations, on this subject, that I 
 should not forgive myself were I to record all that Dr Johnson's 
 ardour led him to say. This day was little better than a blank. 
 
 SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 5. 
 
 I walked to the parish church of Slate, which is a very poor 
 one.* There are no church bells in the island. I was told there 
 were once some ; what has become of them I could not learn. The 
 minister not being at home there was no service. I went into the 
 church, and saw the monument of Sir James Macdonald, which was 
 elegantly executed at Home, and has the following inscription, 
 written by his friend, George Lord Lyttelton : 
 
 To the memory 
 Of SIR JAMES MACDONALD, BART. 
 
 Who in the flower of youth 
 Had attained to so eminent a degree of knowledge, 
 
 In Mathematics, Philosophy, Languages, 
 
 And in every other branch of useful and polite learning, 
 
 As few have acquired in a long life 
 
 Wholly devoted to study : 
 
 Yet to this erudition he joined 
 
 What can rarely be found with it, 
 
 Great talents for business, 
 Great propriety of behaviour, 
 
 Great politeness of manners. 
 His eloquence was sweet, correct, and flowing; 
 
 His memory vast and exact; 
 His judgment strong and acute ; 
 
 All which endowments, united 
 
 With the most amiable temper 
 
 And every private virtue, 
 
 The church is situated at Kilmore, about the middle of the parish. It is an old 
 building-, and has the date 1631 marked on it. It has been lately repaired, and is seated 
 lor nearly 500." Statistical Account of Scotland," 1840. ED. 
 
 \ 2
 
 11-S JOURNAL OF A TOUB 
 
 Procured him, not only in his own country, 
 
 But also from foreign nations, 
 
 The highest marks of esteem. 
 
 In the year of our Lord 
 
 176G, 
 
 The 25th of his life, 
 
 After a long and extremely painful illness, 
 Which he supported with admirable patience and fortitude, 
 
 He died at Rome, 
 
 Where, notwithstanding the difference of religion, 
 
 Such extraordinary honours were paid to his memory 
 
 As had never graced that of any other British subject 
 
 Since the death of Sir Philip Sidney. 
 The fame he left behind him is the best consolation 
 
 To his afflicted family, 
 
 And to his countrymen in this isle, 
 
 For whose benefit he had planned 
 
 Many useful improvements, 
 
 Which his fruitful genius suggested, 
 
 And his active spirit promoted, 
 
 Under the sober direction 
 Of a clear and enlightened understanding. 
 
 Reader, bewail our loss, 
 And that of all Britain ! 
 
 lu testimony of her love, 
 And as the best return she can make 
 
 To her departed son, 
 
 For the constant tenderness and affection 
 Which, even to his last moments, 
 
 He showed for her, 
 His much-afflicted mother, 
 
 The LADY MARGARET MACDONALD, 
 
 Daughter to the EARL of EGLINTOUNE, 
 
 Erected this Monument, 
 
 A.D. 1768.* 
 
 * This extraordinary young man, whom I had the pleasure of knowing intimately, 
 having been deeply regretted by his country, the most minute particulars concerning 
 him must be interesting to many. I shall therefore insert his two last letters to his 
 mother, Lady Margaret Macdonald, which her ladyship has been pleased to communicate 
 tome. 
 
 " Rome, July 9th, 1766. 
 
 " MY DEAE MoTHEn, Yesterday's post brought me your answer to the first letter 
 in which I acquainted you of my illness. Your tenderness and concern upon that 
 account are the same I have always experienced, and to which I have often owed my 
 life. Indeed, it never was in so great danger as it has been lately ; and though it would 
 have been a very great comfort to me to have had you near me, yet perhaps I ought to 
 rejoice, on your account, that you had not the pain of such a spectacle. I have been now 
 a week in Borne, and wish I could continue to give you the same good account of my 
 recovery as I did in my last; but I must own that, for three days past, I have been in a 
 very weak and miserable state, which, however, seems to give no uneasiness to my phy- 
 sicians. BAY stomach has been greatly out of order, without any visible cause ; and the
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 117 
 
 Dr. Jhnson said the inscription should have been in Latin, as 
 everything intended to be universal and permanent should be. 
 
 This being a beautiful day, ray spirits were cheered by the mere 
 effect of climate : I had felt a return of spleen during my stay at 
 Armidale, and had it not been that I had Dr. Johnson to contem- 
 plate, I should have sunk into dejection, but his firmness supported 
 me. I looked at him as a man whose head is turning giddy at sea 
 looks at a rock or any fixed object. I wondered at his tranquillity. 
 He said, " Sir, when a man retires into an island, he is to turn his 
 thoughts entirely to another world : he has done with this." BOS- 
 WELL : " It appears to me, sir, to be very difficult to unite a due 
 attention to this world and that which is to come ; for, if we engage 
 eagerly in the affairs of life, we arc apt to be totally forgetful of a 
 future state ; and, on the other hand, a steady contemplation of the 
 awful concerns of eternity renders all objects here so insignificant as 
 to make us indifferent and negligent about them." JOHNSON : " Sir, 
 Dr. Cheyne has laid down a rule to himself on this subject which 
 should be imprinted on every mind, ' To neglect nothing to secure 
 my eternal peace, more than if I had been certified I should die 
 within the day ; nor to mind anything that my secular obligations 
 and duties demanded of me less than if I had been insured to live 
 fifty years more.' " 
 
 I must here observe, that though Dr. Johnson appeared now to be 
 philosophically calm, yet his genius did not shine forth as in corn- 
 palpitation does not decrease. I am told that my stomach will soon recover its tone, and 
 that the palpitation must cease in time. So I am willing to believe ; and with this hope 
 support the little remains of spirits which I can be supposed to have on the forty- 
 seventh day of such an illness. Do not imagine I have relapsed, I only recover slower 
 than I expected. If my letter is shorter than usual, the cause of it is a dose of physic, 
 which has weakened me so much to-day that I am not able to write a long letter. I will 
 make up for it next post, and remain always 
 
 " Your most sincerely affectionate Son, 
 
 " J. MACDONALD." 
 
 He grew gradually worse ; and on the night before his death he wrote as follows 
 from Frescati : 
 
 " MY DEAR MOTHER, Though I did not mean to deceive you in my last letter from 
 Rome, yet certainly you would have very little reason to conclude of the very great and 
 constant danger I have gone through ever since that time. My life, which is still 
 almost entirely desperate, did not at that time appear to me so, otherwise I should have 
 represented, in its true colours, a fact which acquires very little horror by that means, 
 and comes with redoubled force by deception. There is no circumstance of danger and 
 pain of which I have not had the experience, for a continued scries of above a fortnight ; 
 during which time I have settled my affairs, after my death, with as much distinctness 
 as the hurry and the nature of the thing could admit of. In case of the worst, the Abbe 
 Grant will be my executor in this part of the world, and Mr. Mackenzie in Scotland, 
 where my object lias been to make you and my younger brother as independent of tha 
 eldest as possible." BOSWELL. [Lady Margaret Macdonald survived till March 30th 
 1799. ED.]
 
 118 JOTJEXAL OF A TO17E 
 
 panics, where I have listened to him with admiration. Tlio vigour 
 of his mind was, however, sufficiently manifested, by his discovering 
 no symptoms of feeble relaxation in the dull, "weary, flat, and un- 
 profitable " state in which we now were placed. 
 
 I am inclined to think that it was on this day he composed the 
 following Ode upon the Isle of Sky, which a few days afterwards he 
 showed me at Rasay : 
 
 ODA. 
 
 Fonti profundis clausa recessibus, 
 
 Strepens procellis, rupibus obsita, 
 
 Guam grata dcfesso virentem 
 
 Skia sinum nebulosa pandis ! 
 
 His cura, credo, sedibus cxulat ; 
 His blanda certe pax habitat locis : 
 Non ira, non moeror quietis 
 Insidias meditatur horis. 
 
 At non cavata rupe latescere, 
 Menti nee scgrae montibus aviis 
 Prodest vagari, nee frenientes 
 E scopulo numerare fluctus. 
 
 Humana virtus non sibi suflicil ; 
 Datur nee zequum cuique auimum sibi 
 Parare posse, ut Stoicorum 
 Secta crepet nimis alta fallax. 
 
 Exsestuantis pectoris impetum, 
 Ilex summe, solus tu regis arbiter, 
 Mentisque, te tollente, surgunt, 
 Te recidunt moderante fluctus.* 
 
 * VARIOUS HEADINGS. 
 
 Line 2. In the manuscript,; Dr. Johnson, instead of rtipibu-i obsita, had written 
 imbribus urida, and ucida nubibui, but struck them both out. 
 
 Lines 15 and 16. Instead of these two lines, he had written, but afterwards struck 
 out, the following : 
 
 " Parare posse, utcunque jactct 
 
 Grandiloquus minis alta Zeno." BOSWF.LL. 
 
 [The following is a translation of the above Ode, altered from the " Scots Maga- 
 zine," February, 1786: 
 
 Close on old ocean's utmost bounds, 
 Girt with wild waves and rocky mounds, 
 How grateful to the wearied eye 
 Spreads thy green bosom, misty SK\'E ! 
 
 Care surely flies these soft retreats, 
 And Peace adotns thy gentle seats; 
 Jfor Grief nor Anger's voice affright 
 The calm tranquillity of nig-ht.
 
 TO THE HEBBIDE3. 119 
 
 After supper, Dr. Johnson told 03 that Isaac Hawkins Browne 
 drank freely for thirty years, and that he wrote his poem, " De Animi 
 Immortalitate," in some of the last of these years. I listened to this 
 with the eagerness of one who, conscious of being himself fond of 
 wine, is glad to hear that a man of so much genius and good thinking 
 as Browne had the same propensity. 
 
 MONDAY, SEPTEMBEB 6. 
 
 We set out, accompanied by Mr. Donald Macleod (late of Cannt) 
 as our guide ; we rode for some time along the district of Slate, near 
 the shore. The houses in general are made of turf covered with 
 #rass. The country seemed well peopled. "We came into the district 
 of Strath, and passed along a wild moorish tract of land till we 
 arrived at the shore. There we found good verdure and some curious 
 whin-rocks, or collections of stones, like the ruins of the foundations 
 of old buildings : we saw also three cairns of considerable size. 
 
 About a mile beyond Broadfoot [Broadford] is Corrichatachin, a 
 farm of Sir Alexander Macdonald's, possessed by Mr. Mackinnon,* 
 who received us with a hearty welcome, as did his wife, who was 
 what we call hi Scotknd a lady -like woman. Mr. Pennant, in the 
 course of his tour to the Hebrides, passed two nights at this gentle- 
 man's house. On its being mentioned that a present had here been 
 
 And yet to climb the hilly heath, 
 Or seek the hollow cave beneath, 
 Or count the white waves as they flow, 
 Can bring no cure to mental woe. 
 
 All human aid is weak. The mind 
 Contentment cannot force or bind, 
 And more delusive, weak, and vain 
 The ancient Stoic's lofty strain ! 
 
 The storms that heave the troubled breast, 
 
 GBEAT KINO ! Thou only lull'st to rest; 
 
 And, as Thy wise decrees dispose, 
 
 The tide of passion ebbs or flows. ED.] 
 
 * That my readers may have my narrative in the style of the country through which 
 I :iin travelling-, it is proper to inform them that the chief of a clan is denominated by his 
 surname alone; as Macleod, Mackinnon, Mackintosh. To prefix Mr. to it would be a 
 degradation from the Macleod, &c. My old friend, the laird of Macfarlane, the great 
 antiquary, took it highly amiss when General Wade called him Mr. Macfarlane. Dr. 
 Johnson said he could not bring himself to use this mode of address, it seemed to him 
 <o be too familiar, as it is the way in which, in all other places, intimates or inferiors 
 are addressed. When the chiefs have titles they are denominated by them, as Sir James 
 Grant, Sir Allan Maclean. The other Highland gentlemen, of landed property, are 
 ili-nominated by their estates, as Rasay, Boisdale ; and the wives of all of them have the 
 title of ladies. The tacksmen, or principal tenants, are named by their farms, as Kings- 
 Imr-fh, Corrichatachin; and their wives are called the mistress of Kingsburgh, the mis- 
 tress of Corrichntachin. Having given this explanation, I am at liberty to use that mode 
 of speech which generally prevails in the Highlands and the Hebrides. BOSWELL.
 
 120 JOUHXAI, OF A TOUR 
 
 made to him of a curious specimen of Highland antiquity, Dr. John- 
 son said, " Sir, it was more than he deserved : the dog is a Whig." 
 
 We here enjoyed the comfort of a table plentifully furnished, the 
 satisfaction of which was heightened by a numerous and cheerful com- 
 pany ; and we, for the first time, had a specimen of the joyous social 
 manners of the inhabitants of the Highlands. They talked in their 
 own ancient language with fluent vivacity, and sung many Erse songs 
 with such spirit that, though Dr. Johnson was treated with the 
 greatest respect and attention, there were moments in which he 
 seemed to be forgotten. For myself, though but a Lowlander, 
 having picked up a few words of the language, I presumed to mingle 
 in their mirth, and joined in the choruses with as much glee as any 
 of the company. Dr. Johnson being fatigued with his journey retired 
 early to his chamber, where he composed the following Ode, 
 
 addressed to Mrs. Thrale : 
 
 ODA. 
 
 Permeo terras, ubi nuda rupes 
 Saxeas miscet nebulis ruinas, 
 Torva ubi rident steriles coloni 
 
 Rura labores. 
 
 Pervagor gentes, hominum ferorum 
 Vita ubi nullo decorata cultu 
 Squallet informis, tugurique fumis 
 Fceda latescit. 
 
 Inter erroris salebrosa longi, 
 Inter ignotse strepitus loquelse, 
 Quot modis mecum, quid agat, require, 
 Thralia dulcis ? 
 
 Seu viri curas pia nupta mulcet, 
 Seu fovet mater sobolem benigna, 
 Sive cum libris novitate pascit 
 
 Sedula mentem ; 
 
 Sit memor nastri, fideique merces, 
 Stet fides constans, meritoque blandum 
 Thraliie discant resonare nomeu 
 
 Litora Skioe.* 
 Scripium in Skid, Sept. 6, 1773. 
 
 * Johnson appears to have altered the last stanza of his Ode. In the copy given 
 in the Oxford edition of his works, two lines stand thus 
 " Sit memor nostri, fideique solvat 
 Fidamercedem," &c. 
 
 The " Ode de Skia Insula" was, shortly after the publication of Boswell's Journal , 
 translated as follows, by a lady, Miss Knight : 
 
 O'er stony lands, where naked rocks, 
 The marks of nature's fearful shocks, 
 In misty clouds appear ;
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 131 
 
 TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 7. 
 
 Dr. Johnson was much pleased with his entertainment here. 
 There were many good books in the house : Hector Boethius, in 
 Latin ; Cave's Lives of the Fathers ; Baker's Chronicle ; Jeremy 
 Collier's Church History ; Dr. Johnson's small Dictionary ; Crau- 
 furd's Officers of State, and several more : a mezzotinto of Mrs. 
 Brooks the actress (by some strange chance in Sky*), and also a 
 print of Macdonald of Clanranald, with a Latin inscription about the 
 cruelties after the battle of Culloden, which will never be forgotten. 
 
 It was a very wet, stormy day ; we were therefore obliged to- 
 remain here, it being impossible to cross the sea to Rasay. 
 
 I employed a part of the forenoon in writing this Journal. 
 The rest of it was somewhat dreary, from the gloominess of the 
 weather and the uncertain state which we were in, as we could not 
 tell but it might clear up every hour. Nothing is more painful to 
 
 Through dismal fields, whose barren soil 
 Derides the swain's laborious toil, 
 My wandering steps I bear. 
 
 Through nations wild, a hardy race, 
 "Where life no cultivated grace, 
 
 No elegance can know ; 
 But shrinks abashed from human eyes, 
 And in the smoky hovel lies 
 
 Through scenes like these I go. 
 
 Amidst unknown and barbarous speech, 
 While wandering o'er this distant Ueach, 
 
 In all my watery way ; 
 How think'st thou of thy absemt friend, 
 How dost thou, whither dost thou tend 
 
 My gentle Thralia, say ? 
 
 If, pious wife, thy husband's cares, 
 Thou softly soothe, or infant heirs 
 
 Watch o'er as mother kind ; 
 Or 'mid the charms of lettered lore 
 Thou add new treasures to thy store, 
 
 And feed thy active mind ; 
 
 Remember me, thy friendship guard 
 Of constant friendship due reward, 
 
 Howe'er on distant ground ; 
 Ah ! let thy faith be still the same, 
 And justly Thralia's pleasing name 
 
 Shall Skia's shores resound. ED. 
 
 Mr. Croker states that Mrs. Brooks's father was a Scotchman of (he name of 
 Watson, who lost his property and fled his country for the Stuart cause in 1743, a cir- 
 cumstance which would readily account for the lady's portrait being in the Highlands. 
 We find that Lieut. Thomas "Watson, of Ogilvy's Regiment, tobacconist in Perth, was 
 convicted of high treason and sentenced to death, but reprieved. His name is in the list 
 of attainted persons, Exchequer Chamber, Edinburgh, Sept. 24, 1747. ED.
 
 13 J JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 tli3 mind than a state of suspense, especially when it depends upon 
 the weather, concerning which there can be so little calculation. As 
 Dr. Johnson said of our weariness on the Monday at Aberdeen, 
 " Sensation is sensation ;" Corrichatachin, which was last night a 
 hospitable house, was, in iny mind, changed to-day into a prison. 
 After dinner I read some of Dr. Macpherson's " Dissertations oa 
 the Ancient Caledonians." I was disgusted by the unsatisfactory 
 conjectures as to antiquity before the days of record. I was happy 
 when tea came. Such, I take it, is the state of those who live in the 
 country. Meals are wished for from the cravings of vacuity of mind 
 as well as from the desire of eating. I was hurt to find even such a 
 temporary feebleness, and that I was so far from being that robust 
 wise man who is sufficient for his own happiness. I felt a kind of 
 lethargy of indolence. I did not exert myself to get Dr. Johnson to 
 talk, that I might not have the labour of writing down his conver- 
 sation. He inquired here if there were any remains of the second 
 slight. Mr. Macpherson, minister of Slate, said he was resolved not 
 to believe it, because it was founded on no principle. JOHNSON: 
 " There are many things, then, which we are sure are true, that 
 you will not believe. What principle is there why a loadstone 
 attracts iron ; why an egg produces a chicken by heat ; why a tree 
 grows upwards, when the natural tendency of all things is down- 
 wards ? Sir, it depends upon the degree of evidence that you 
 have."* Young Mr. Mackinnon mentioned one Mackenzie, who is 
 
 * Johnson's reasoning 1 resembles that of Martin, who devotes a chapter of his work to 
 " An Account of the Second Sight, in Irish called Taish." Martin was a firm believer, 
 and is at some pains to vindicate the seers. " If everything," he says, " for which the 
 learned are not able to give a satisfying account be condemned as impossible, we may find 
 many other things generally believed that must be rejected as false by this rule. For in- 
 stance, yawning and its influence, and that the'loadstone attracts iron, and yet these 
 are true as well as harmless, though we can give no satisfying account of their causes. 
 And if we know so little of natural causes, how much less can we pretend to things that 
 are supernatural ?" (Martin's" Western Islands." London, 1703.) Even in Martin's time 
 the second sight had greatly declined ; not one in ten, he said, saw it then that saw it 
 twenty |years before. Other supernatural beliefs were giving way. " A spirit, by the 
 country people called broumy, was frequently seen in all the most considerable families in 
 the isles and north of Scotland, in the shape of a tall man ; but within these twenty or 
 thirty years past he is seen but rarely. There were spirits also that appeared in the 
 shape of women, horses, swine, cats, and some like fiery balls, which would follow men 
 in the fields ; but there has been but few instances of these for forty years past." The 
 decline of these superstitions must be attributed to the efforts of the clergy and to the 
 greater intercourse which had taken place on the part of the tacksmen and chiefs with 
 the southern districts. Education made little way in the Highlands until the Society 
 for Propagating Christian Knowledge commenced its admirable labours in 1709 \riihfive 
 schools, extended before the close of the century to two hundred. Even in 1825 seventy 
 in the hundred of the population of the Hebrides were unable to read. Johnson's cre- 
 dulity as to the second-sight, when he was so incredulous in other matters, is one of the 
 prominent features in his strangely-mingled character. He was eager to belie vein super-
 
 TO THE HEBIUDES. 123 
 
 still alive, who had often fainted in his presence,' and when he 
 recovered mentioned visions which had been presented to him. 
 He told Mr. Mackinnon that at such a place he should meet a 
 funeral, and that such and such people would be the bearers, 
 naming four : and three weeks afterwards he saw what Mackenzie 
 had predicted. The naming the very spot in a country where a 
 funeral comes a long way, and the very people as bearers when 
 there are so many out of whom a choice may be made, seems extra- 
 ordinary. We should have sent for Mackenzie had we not been 
 informed that he could speak no English. Besides, the facts were 
 not related with sufficient accuracy. 
 
 Mrs. Mackinnon, who is a daughter of old Kingsburgh, told us 
 that her father was one day riding in Sky, and some women, who 
 were at work in a field on the side of the road, said to him they had 
 heard two taiscks (that is, two voices of persons about to die), 
 and what was remarkable, one of them was an English taisck, which 
 they never heard before. "When he returned, he at that very place 
 met two funerals, and one of them was that of a woman who had 
 come from the main land, and could speak only English. This, she 
 remarked, made a great impression upon her father. 
 
 How all the people here were lodged I know not. It was 
 partly done by separating man and wife, and putting a number of 
 men in one room, and of women in another.* 
 
 natural agency as some relief to that dread of death and morbid "melancholy which 
 clouded his masculine understanding and genuine piety. In this respect the English 
 philosopher, with all his town-bred tastes and habits, was on a level with the rude islander 
 of the Hebrides, nursed amidst storms and solitude. ED. 
 
 * This introduction of the travellers to the house of a Highland tacksman, or large 
 farmer, afforded a favourable specimen of the class ; and another was subsequently given 
 at Kingsburgh. The reader may compare these sketches with the description of Dandis 
 Dinraont's establishment at Liddesdale. There were the same rough abundance and 
 generous hospitality in all of them ; but the Highland domicile displayed a share of that 
 feudal politeness which descended from the chief to all the clan ; and there was gene- 
 rally more of " book-learning. 1 ' Travelling from one end of a Highland parish to another 
 was then a serious business. It was not merely that the roads were bud, but there were 
 so many old families by the way whom you could not pass by without calling upon, that 
 what with a late sitting at one place, and a dance at another, a journey that is now per- 
 formed in one day usually teok a week or more. 
 
 " For long, though cheerful, was the way ; 
 And life, alas ! allows but one ill winter's day." Coicley. 
 
 Corrichatachin was always a full house. Its own inmates were numerous. These 
 were, at the time of Johnson's visit, Lachlan Mackinnon and his son Charles, who lived 
 together, a:ul were married to mother and daughter the ladies who did the honours of the 
 tea-drinking to the travellers. There were also present the ministers of Sleat and Strath, 
 the former married to a daughter of the elder Corry. The elder Mrs. Mackinnon had 
 been previously married to a Mr. Macalistcr, by whom she had a large family. One of 
 these bo \i:ne governor of Penang; two others rose to be colonels in the East-India 
 Company 's service; and a fourth purchased the estate of Strathaird in Skye. Old Corry
 
 124 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 8. 
 
 "WTien I waked the rain was much heavier than yesterday ; but 
 the wind had abated. By breakfast the day was better, and in a 
 little while it was calm and clear. I felt my spirits much elated ; 
 the propriety of the expression, " the sunshine of the breast," now 
 struck me with peculiar force, for the brilliant rays penetrated into 
 my very soul. "We were all in better humour than before. Mrs. 
 Mackinnon, with unaffected hospitality and politeness, expressed 
 her happiness in having such company in her house, and appeared to 
 understand and relish Dr. Johnson's conversation, as indeed all the 
 company seemed to do. When I knew she was old Kingsburgh's 
 daughter, I did not wonder at the good appearance which she 
 made. 
 
 She talked as if her husband and family would emigrate rather 
 than be oppressed by their landlord ; and said, " How agreeable 
 would it be if these gentlemen should come in upon xis when we are 
 in America!" Somebody observed that Sir Alexander Macdonald 
 was always frightened at sea. JOHNSON : " He is frightened at sea, 
 and his tenants are frightened when he comes on land." 
 
 We resolved to set out directly after breakfast. We had about 
 two miles to ride to the sea-side, and there we expected to get one 
 of the boats belonging to the fleet of bounty herring-busses then on 
 the coast, or at least a good country fishing-boat. But while we were 
 preparing to set out, there arrived a man with the following card 
 from the Eev. Mr. Donald Macqueen : 
 
 " Mr. Macqueen's compliments to Mr. Boswell, and begs leave to acquaint him 
 that, fearing the want of a proper boat, as much as the rain of yesterday, might have 
 caused a stop, he is now at Skianwden with Macgillichallum's* carriage, to convey 
 him and Dr. Johnson to Rasay, where they will meet witli a most hearty welcome, and 
 where Macleod, being on a visit, now attends their motions. 
 " Wednesday afternoon." 
 
 This card was most agreeable ; it was a prologue to that hospi- 
 
 lived sixteen years after Johnson's visit, but his son died the year following it, 1774. The 
 farm is still in the possession of the same hospitable family, the present Corry Veing the 
 great grandson of Johnson's entertainer. The younger Mrs. Mackinnon lived till past 
 ninety, and loved to talk of the visits of Pennant and Johnson. The farms of Corricha- 
 tachin and Kingsburgh have undergone as great a revolution in the way of agricultural 
 improvement as any in the Highlands. The arable land in both is cultivated with as 
 great care and skill as can be found in the fertile districts of the south. In Johnson's 
 time there was not even a turnip or cabbage grown at Corrichatachin ; there is now a 
 large garden, producing all the fruits commonly grown in Scotland, with no contempt- 
 ible show of the most delicate flowers and shrubs, including afuschia ten feet high, and 
 a hydrangea that covers a space of twelve feet, and is loaded with flowers. This " latter- 
 day" flush of fruit and blossom extends over all the island. Talisker and Kin jsburgh 
 have fine gardens ; and Dunvegan has, in addition, a conservatory. ED. 
 The Highland expression for Laird of Rasay. BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 125 
 
 table and truly polite reception which we found at Rasay. In a 
 little while arrived Mr. Donald Macqueen himself; a decent 
 minister, an elderly man with hia own bkck hair, courteous, and 
 rather slow of speech, but candid, sensible, and well informed nay, 
 learned. Along with him came, as our pilot, a gentleman whom I had 
 a great desire to see, Mr. Malcolm Macleod, one of the Rasay family, 
 celebrated in the year 1745-6. He was now sixty -two years of age, 
 hale and well-proportioned, with a manly countenance, and tanned 
 by the weather, yet having a ruddiness in his cheeks, over a great 
 part of which his rough beard extended. His eye was quick and 
 lively, yet his look was not fierce, but he appeared at once firm and 
 good-humoured. He wore a pair of brogues, Tartan hose which came 
 up only near to his knees, and left them bare, a purple camblet 
 kilt, a black waistcoat, a short green cloth coat bound with gold cord, 
 a yellowish bushy wig, a large blue bonnet with a gold thread button. 
 I never saw a figure that gave a more perfect representation of a 
 Highland gentleman. I wished much to have a picture of him just 
 as he was. I found him frank and polite, in the true sense of the 
 word. 
 
 oy ND KOSV, ELL'S JOVR.MT TO R\SAV.
 
 126 JOURNAL OF A. TOUU 
 
 The good family at Corriclmtacliin said they hoped to sec us on 
 our return. We rode down to the shore, but Malcolm walked with 
 graceful agility, 
 
 We got into Basay's carnage, which was a good strong open boat 
 made in Norway. The wind had now risen pretty high, and was 
 against us ; but we had four stout rowers, particularly a Macleod, 
 a robust black-haired fellow, half naked and bare-headed, something 
 between a wild Indian and an English tar. Dr. Johnson sat high on 
 the stern, like a magnificent Triton. Malcolm sung an Erse song, 
 the chorus of which was "Hatyin foam foam eri," with words of 
 his own. The tune resembled " Owr the muir amang the heather." 
 The boatmen and Mr. Macqueen chorused, and all went well. At 
 length Malcolm himself took an oar, and rowed vigorously. We 
 sailed along the coast of Scalpa, a rugged island, about four miles 
 in length. Dr. Johnson proposed that he and I should buy it, and 
 found a good school and an. episcopal church (Malcolm said he would 
 come to it), and have a printing-press, where he would print all the 
 Erse that could be found. 
 
 Here I was strongly struck with our long-projected scheme of 
 visiting the Hebrides being realised. I called to him, " We are con- 
 tending with seas ;" which I think were the words of one of his letters 
 to me. " Not much," said he ; and though the wind made the sea 
 lash considerably upon us, he was not discomposed. After we were 
 out of the shelter of Scalpa, and in the sound between it and Ilasay, 
 which extended about a league, the M'ind made the sea very rough- 
 I did not like it. JOHNSON: "This, now, is the Atlantic. If I 
 shoi Jd tell at a tea-table in London that I have crossed the Atlantic 
 in an open boat, how they'd shudder, and what a fool they'd think 
 me to expose myself to such danger !" He then repeated Horace's 
 ode, 
 
 " Otium Divos rogat in patent! 
 Preusus /Egaeo" * 
 
 In the confusion and hurry of this boisterous sail, Dr. Johnson's 
 spurs, of which Joseph had charge, were carried overboard into the 
 sea and lost. This was the first misfortune that had befallen us. Dr. 
 Jolinson was a little angry at first, observing that "there was some- 
 thing wild in letting a pair of spurs be carried into the sea out of 
 a boat ;" but then he remarked that, as Janes the naturalist had 
 
 * " When clouds the moon's fair lustre hide, 
 No stars the doubtful helm to guide ; 
 The sailor, 'mid the raging seas, 
 Suppliant implores the gods for ease." 
 
 FBAXCIS'S HORACE.
 
 TO TEE HEBRIDES. 1J7 
 
 said upon losing his pocket-book, it was rather an inconvenience 
 than a loss. He told us he now recollected that he dreamt the night 
 before that he put his staff into a river, and chanced to let it go, and 
 it was carried down the stream and lost. " So now you see," said he, 
 "that I have lost my spurs ; and this story is better than many of 
 those which we have concerning second-sight and dreams." Mr. 
 Macqueen said he did not believe the second-sight ; that he never 
 met with any well-attested instances ; and if he should, he should 
 impute them to chance ; because all who pretend to that quality 
 often fail in their predictions, though they take a great scope, and 
 sometimes interpret literally, sometimes figuratively, so as to suit the 
 events. 
 
 He told us, that since he came to be minister of the parish 
 where he now is, the belief of witchcraft or charms was very com- 
 mon, insomuch that he had many prosecutions before his session 
 (the parochial ecclesiastical court) against women, for having by those 
 means carried off the milk from people's cows. Ho disregarded them ; 
 and there is not now the least vestige of that superstition. He 
 preached against it; and in order to give a strong proof to the- 
 people tliat there was nothing in it, he said from the pulpit that every 
 woman in the parish was welcome to take the milk from his cows, 
 provided she did not touch them.* 
 
 Dr. Johnson asked him as to Fingal. He said he could repeat 
 some passages in the original, that he heard his grandfather had a 
 copy of it ; but that he could not affirm that Ossian composed all that 
 poem as it is now published. This came pretty much to what Dr. 
 Johnson liad maintained, though he goes farther and contends that 
 it is no better than such an epic poem as he could make from the 
 song of Robin Hood ; that is to say, that, except a few passages, 
 there is nothing truly ancient but the names and some vague tradi- 
 tions. Mr. Macqueen alleged that Homer was made up of detached 
 
 * Mr. Macqueen communicated to Pennant an account of the Gntgnich Stones, 
 honoured with libations of milk from the hand of the dairy-maid. The offering to 
 Grugach was made upon the Sunday, for the preservation of the cattle on the ensuing- 
 week. It appears from the statistical account, that so late as 1770, the women who 
 attended a herd of cattle in the island of Trodda, were in the habit of pouring daily 
 a quantity of milk on a hollow stone for the Grugach. Mr. Macqueen went to Trodda 
 on purpose to preach down the superstition, but he was not successful. The worthy 
 minister had, early in life, been a partial believer in the second-sight. In that strange 
 farrago of absurdity and vanity, the " Treatise on the Second Sight, by Theophilus 
 Insulanus" (Maclced of Hamir, 1763), is a letter from Mr. Macqueen to the author, in 
 which he states that the visions were not seen by the external organ, otherwise all clear- 
 sighted people must have seen them, but that the vision was a representation made to 
 the imagination by some spirit, either good or bad. The worthy minister lived to dis- 
 card the whole shadowy tribe of the seers ; and nothing can be more puerile or ridiculous 
 than the cases cited by Martin and Theophilus Insulanus. Ei>.
 
 128 JOUBNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 fragments. Dr. Johnson denied this ; observing that it had been 
 one work originally, and that you could not put a book of the Iliad 
 out of its place ; and he believed the same might be said of the 
 Odyssey. 
 
 The approach to Rasay was very pleasing. We saw before us a 
 beautiful bay, well defended by a rocky coast ; a good family 
 mansion ; a fine verdure about it, with a considerable number of 
 trees, and beyond it liills and mountains in gradation of wildness. 
 Our boatmen sung with great spirit. Dr. Johnson observed that 
 naval music was very ancient. As we came near the shore the sing- 
 ing of our rowers was succeeded by that of reapers, who were busy 
 at work, and who seemed to shout as [much as to sing while they 
 worked with a bounding activity. Just as we landed I observed a 
 cross, or rather the ruins of one, upon a rock, which had to me a 
 uleasing vestige of religion. I perceived a large company coming 
 out from the house ; we met them as we walked up. There were 
 Rasay himself, his brother Dr. Macleod, his nephew the Laird of 
 Mackinnon, the Laird of Macleod, Colonel Macleod of Talisker, 
 an officer in the Dutch service, a very genteel man, and a faithful 
 branch of the family, Mr. Macleod, of Muiravenside, best known 
 by the name of Sandy Macleod, who was long in exile on account 
 of the part which he took in 1745,* and several other persons. We 
 were welcomed upon the green and conducted into the house, where 
 we were introduced to Lady Rasay, who was surrounded by a nume- 
 rous family, consisting of three sons and ten daughters. The laird 
 of Rasay is a sensible, polite, and most hospitable gentleman. I 
 was told that his island of Rasay and that of Rona (from which the 
 eldest son of the family has his title), and a considerable extent of 
 the land which he .has in Sky, do not altogether yield him a very 
 large revenue, and yet he lives in great splendour ; and so far is he 
 from distressing his people, that in the present rage for emigration 
 not a man has left his estate. 
 
 5 ' * Mr. Macleod was'a cousin of Clam-anald's, and was deputed by the Jacobite party to 
 proceed to the Isle of Skye, in order to induce Macleod and Sir Alexander Macdonald 
 to join in the rising. If he had succeeded in procuring- the adhesion of those two 
 powerful chiefs, the Prince's army would have been a much more formidable force. It 
 is said they could have brought twelve hundred broadswords to the field. Both Macleod 
 and Sir Alexander, however, continued firm to the Royalist cause. The Prince landed 
 about the middle of July; and so early as August "3rd we find Macleod writing to his 
 friend Duncan Forbes, of Culloden, the Lord President, that Sir Alexander Macdonald 
 and himself gave no countenance to the rebels, but used all the interest they had with 
 their neighbours to follow the same prudent course. (" Culloden Papers," p. 204.) 
 Macleod afterwards joined the Royalist army with a body of 400 men ; but there can be 
 little doubt that both the Macleod and Macdonald clans would rather have been on the 
 other side. A pardon to Mr. A. Macleod passed the Great Seal July 11, 1778. He died 
 December 30, 1784. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 129 
 
 It was past six o'clock when we arrived. Some excellent brandy 
 was served round immediately, according to the custom of the High- 
 lands, where a dram is generally taken every day ; they call it a 
 scalch. On a side-board was placed for us who had come off the sea 
 a substantial dinner and a variety of wines ; then we had coffee and 
 tea. I observed in the room several elegantly bound books and other 
 marks of improved life. Soon afterwards a fiddler appeared, and a 
 little ball began. Easay himself danced with as much spirit as any 
 man, and Malcolm bounded like a roe. Sandy Macleod, who has at 
 times an excessive flow of spirits, and had it now, was, in his days 
 of absconding, known by the name of M'Cruslick, which, it seems, 
 was the designation of a kind of wild man in the Highlands, some- 
 thing between Proteus and Don Quixote, and so he was called here ; 
 he made much jovial noise. Dr. Johnson was so delighted with this 
 scene, that he said, " I know not how we shall get away." It enter- 
 tained me to observe him sitting by while we danced, sometimes in 
 deep meditation, sometimes smiling complacently, sometimes looking 
 upon Hooke's Roman History, and sometimes talking a little, amidst 
 the noise of the ball, to Mr. Donald Macqueen, who anxiously 
 gathered knowledge from him. He was pleased with Macqueen, and 
 said to me, " This is a critical man, sir. There must be great vigour 
 of mind to make him cultivate learning so much in the isle of Sky, 
 where he might do without it ; it is wonderful how many of the 
 new publications he has ; there must be a snatch of every opportu- 
 nity." Mr. Macqueen told me that his brother (who is the fourth 
 generation of the family following each other as ministers of the 
 parish of Snizort) and he joined together and bought, from time to 
 time, such books as had reputation. Soon after we came in, a black 
 cock and grey hen which had been shot were shown with their 
 feathers on to Dr. Johnson, who had never seen that species of 
 bird before. We had a company of thirty at supper, and all was 
 good humour and gaiety without intemperance. 
 
 THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 9. 
 
 At breakfast this morning, "among a profusion of other things, 
 there were oat-cakes, made of what is called graddaned meal ; that 
 is, meal made of grain separated from the husks, and toasted by 
 fire, instead of being threshed and kiln-dried. This seems to be bad 
 management, as so much fodder is consumed by it. Mr. Macqueen, 
 however, defended it by saying that it is doing the thing much 
 quicker, as one operation effects what is otherwise done by two. His 
 chief reason, however, was, that the servants in Sky are, according 
 to him, a faithless pack, and steal what they can ; so that much is 
 
 J
 
 ICO JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 saved by the corn passing but once through their hands, as at each 
 time they pilfer some. It appears to me that the graddaning is a 
 strong proof of the laziness of the Highlanders, who will rather make 
 fire act for them at the expense of fodder than labour themselves. 
 There was also what I cannot help disliking at breakfast, cheese ; 
 it is the custom over all the Highlands to have it, and it often smells 
 very strong, and poisons to a certain degree the elegance of an 
 Indian repast. The day was showery ; however, Hasay and I took 
 a walk, and had some cordial conversation. I conceived a more 
 than ordinary regard for this worthy gentleman. His family has- 
 possessed this island above four hundred years. It is the remains 
 of the estate of Macleod of Lewis, whom he represents. When we 
 returned, Dr. Johnson walked with us to see the old chapel. He- 
 was in fine spirits. He said, " This is truly the patriarchal life ; this 
 is what we came to find." 
 
 After dinner, M'Cruslick, Malcolm, and I went out with grins, to 
 try if we could find any black-cock ; but we had no sport, owing to 
 a heavy rain. I saw here what is called a Danish fort. Our evening 
 was passed as last night was. One of our company, I was told, had 
 hurt himself by too much study, particularly of infidel metaphysicians ; 
 of which he gave a proof on second-sight being mentioned. He imme- 
 diately retailed some of the fallacious arguments of Voltaire and 
 Hume against miracles in general. Infidelity in a Highland gentle- 
 man appeared to me peculiarly offensive. I was sorry for him, as he 
 had otherwise a good character. I told Dr. Johnson that lie had 
 studied himself into infidelity. JOHNSON : " Then he must study 
 himself out of it again. That is the way. Drinking largely will 
 sober him again." 
 
 FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 10. 
 
 Having resolved to explore the island of Easay, which could be 
 done onjy on foot, I last night obtained my fellow-traveller's per- 
 mission to leave him for a day, he being unable to take so hardy a 
 walk. Old Mr. Malcolm Macleod, who had obligingly promised to 
 accompany me, was at my bedside between five and six. I sprang 
 up immediately, and he and I, attended by two other gentlemen, 
 traversed the country during the whole of this day. Though we had 
 passed over not less than four-and-twenty miles of very rugged 
 ground, and had a Highland dance on the top of Dun Can, the high- 
 est mountain in the island, we returned in the evening not at all 
 fatigued, and piqued ourselves at not being outdone at the nightly 
 ball by our less active friends who had remained at home. 
 
 My survey of Basay did not furnish much which can interest
 
 TO THE HEUr.lDES. 131 
 
 my readers ; I shall therefore put into as short a compass as I can 
 the observations upon it which I find registered in my journal. It 
 is about fifteen English miles long, and four broad. On the south 
 side is the laird's family seat, situated on a pleasing low spot. The 
 old tower of three storeys, mentioned by Martin, was taken down 
 soon after 1746, and a modern house supplies its place. There are 
 very good grass-fields and corn -lands about it well dressed. I 
 observed, however, hardly any inclosures, except a good garden 
 plentifully stocked with vegetables, and strawberries, raspberries, 
 currants, &c. 
 
 On one of the rocks just where we landed, which are not high, 
 there is rudely carved a square, with a crucifix in the middle. Here, 
 it is said, the Lairds of Kasay, in old times, used to offer up their 
 devotions. I could not approach the spot without a grateful recol- 
 lection of the event commemorated by this symbol. 
 
 A little from the shore, westward, is a kind of subterraneous 
 house. There has been a natural fissure or separation of the rock, 
 running towards the sea, which has been roofed over with long 
 stones, and above them turf has been laid ; in that place the inha- 
 bitants used to keep their oars. There are a number of trees near the 
 house, which grow well ; some of them of a pretty good size. They 
 are mostly plane and ash. A little to the west of the house is an 
 old ruinous chapel, unroofed, which never has been very curious. 
 We here saw some human bones of an uncommon size ; there was 
 a heel-bone, in particular, which Dr. Macleod said was such, that if 
 the foot was in proportion, it must have been twenty-seven inches 
 long. Dr. Johnson would not look at the bones ; he started back 
 from them with a striking appearance of horror. Mr. Macqueen 
 told us that it was formerly much the custom in these isles to have 
 human bones lying above the ground, especially in the windows of 
 churches. On the south of the chapel is the family burying-place. 
 Above the door, on the east end of it, is a small bust or image of 
 the Virgin Mary, carved upon a stone which makes part of the wall. 
 There is no church upon the island. It is annexed to one of the- 
 parishes of Sky ; and the minister comes and preaches either in 
 Kasay's house or some other house, on certain Sundays. I could 
 not but value the family seat more for having even the ruins of a 
 chapel close to it. There was something comfortable in the thought 
 of being so near a piece of consecrated ground. Dr. Johnson said : 
 " I look with reverence upon every place that has been set apart 
 for religion ;" and he kept off his hat while he was within the walla 
 of the chapel. 
 
 J-l
 
 13 JOUBNAL OF A TOUE 
 
 The eight crosses, which Martin mentions as pyramids for deceased 
 ladies, stood in a semicircular line, which contained within it the 
 chapel. They marked out the boundaries of the sacred territory 
 within which an asylum was to be had. One of them, which we 
 observed upon our landing, made the first point of the semicircle. 
 There are few of them now remaining. A good way farther north, 
 there is a row of buildings about four feet high : they run from the 
 shore on the east along the top of a pretty high eminence, and so down 
 to the shore on the west, in much the same direction with the crosses. 
 Rasay took them to be the marks for the asylum ; but Malcolm 
 thought them to be false sentinels, a common deception, of which 
 instances occur in Martin, to make invaders imagine an island better 
 guarded. Mr. Donald Macqueen justly, in my opinion, supposes the 
 crosses which form the inner circle to be the church's land-marks. 
 
 The south end of the island is much covered with large stones or 
 rocky strata. The laird has enclosed and planted part of it with firs, 
 and he showed me a considerable space marked out for additional 
 plantations. 
 
 Dun Can is a mountain three computed miles from the laird's 
 house. The ascent to it is by consecutive risings, if that expression 
 may be used when valleys intervene, so that there is but a short rise 
 at once ; but it is certainly very high above the sea. The palm of 
 altitude is disputed for by the people of Rasay and those of Sky ; the 
 former contending for Dun Can, the latter for the mountains in Sky 
 over against it. We went up to the east side of Dun Can pretty 
 easily. It is mostly rocks all around, the points of which hem the 
 summit of it. Sailors, to whom it was a good object as they pass 
 along, call it Hasay's cap. Before we reached this mountain, we 
 passed by two lakes. Of the first, Malcolm told me a strange fabulous 
 tradition. He said, there was a wild beast in it, a sea horse, which 
 came and devoured a man's daughter ; upon which the man lighted 
 a great fire, and had a sow roasted at it, the smell of which attracted 
 the monster. In the fire was put a spit. The man lay concealed 
 behind a low wall of loose stones, and he had an avenue formed for 
 the monster, with two rows of large flat stones, which extended from 
 the fire over the summit of the hill, till it reached the side of the loch. 
 The monster came, and the man with the red-hot spit destroyed it. 
 Malcolm showed me the little hiding-place, and the rows of stones. 
 He did not laugh when he told this story. I recollect having seen in 
 the " Scots Magazine," several years ago, a poem upon a similar tale, 
 perhaps the same, translated from the Erse, or Irish, called " Albin and 
 the Daughter of Mey."* 
 
 * The translation appeared in the " Scots' Magazine" for 1756. It was by Jerome
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 133 
 
 There is a large tract of land, possessed as a common, in Rasay. 
 They have no regulations as to number of cattle. Every man puts 
 upon it as many as he chooses. From Dun Can northward, till you 
 reach the other end of the island, there is much good natural pasture 
 unincumbered by stones. We passed over a spot, which is appro- 
 priated for the exercising ground. In 1745, a hundred fighting men 
 were reviewed here, as Malcolm told me, who was one of the officers 
 that led them to the field. They returned home all but about four- 
 teen. What a princely thing is it to be able to furnish such a band! 
 Rasay has the true spirit of a chief. He is, without exaggeration, a 
 father to his people. 
 
 There is plenty of lime-stone in the island, a great quarry of free- 
 stone, and some natural woods, but none of any age, as they cut the 
 trees for common country uses. The lakes, of which there are many, 
 are well stocked with trout. Malcolm catched one of four-and-twenty 
 pounds weight in the loch next to Dun Can, which, by the way, is 
 certainly a Danish name, as most names of places in these islands 
 are.* 
 
 The old castle, in which the family of Rasay formerly resided, is situ- 
 ated upon a rock very near the sea. The rock is not one mass of stone, 
 but a concretion of pebbles and earth, so firm that it does not appear 
 to have mouldered. In this remnant of antiquity, I found nothing 
 worthy of being noticed, except a certain accommodation rarely to be 
 found at the modern houses of Scotland, and which Dr. Johnson and 
 I sought for in vain at the Laird of Rasay 's new-built mansion, where 
 nothing else was wanting. I took the liberty to tell the Laird it was 
 a shame there should be such a deficiency in civilized times. He 
 acknowledged the justice of the remark ; but perhaps some genera- 
 tions may pass before the want is supplied. Dr. Johnson observed to 
 me, how quietly people will endure an evil, which they might at any 
 time very easily remedy ; and mentioned as an instance, that the pre- 
 sent family of Rasay had possessed the island for more than four hun- 
 dred years, and never made a commodious landing place, though a 
 few men with pickaxes might have cut an ascent of stairs out of any 
 part of the rock in a week's time. 
 
 The north end of Rasay is as rocky as the south end. From it I 
 saw the little isle of Fladda, belonging to Rasay, all fine green 
 ground ; and Rona, which is of so rocky a soil, that it appears to be a 
 
 Stone, a young man in Dunkeld, who was the first to collect and translate the ancient 
 poems of the Highlands. The original, according to Stone's copy, and his translation 
 with a literal translation of the original, are given in the Appendix to the Highland 
 Society's Report on the Poems of Ossian. ED. 
 
 * Dim. a very common prefix in the names ef places, in the ancient British signi- 
 fied a stronghold, or fortified bill. Can is the Celtic for head. ED.
 
 }3t JOURNAL OF A TUL'R 
 
 pavement. I was told, however, that it lias a great deal of grass in 
 the interstices. The Laird has it all in his own hands. At this end 
 of the island of Rasay is a cave in a striking situation. It is in a 
 recess of a great cleft, a good Avay up from the sea. Before it the 
 ocean' roars, being dashed against monstrous broken rocks grand and 
 awful propvffttacula. On the right hand of it is a longitudinal cave, 
 very low at the entrance, but higher as you advance. The sea having 
 scooped it out, it seems strange and unaccountable that the interior 
 part, where the water must have operated with less force, should be 
 loftier than that which is more immediately exposed to its violence. 
 The roof of it is all covered with a kind of petrih'cations formed by 
 drops, which perpetually distil from it. The first cave has been a 
 place of much safety. I find a great difficulty in describing visible 
 objects. I must own, too, that the old castle and cave, like many 
 other things, of which one hears much, did not answer my expecta- 
 tions. People are everywhere apt to magnify the curiosities of their 
 country. 
 
 This island has abundance of black cattle, sheep, and goats, a 
 good many horses, which are used for ploughing, carrying out dung, 
 and other works of husbandry. I believe the people never ride. 
 There are indeed no roads through the island, unless a few detached 
 beaten tracks deserve that name. Most of the houses are upon the 
 shore; so that all the people have little boats, and catch fish. There 
 is great plenty of potatoes here. There are blackcock in extraordi- 
 nary abundance, moor-fowl, plover, and wild pigeons, which seemed 
 to me to be the same as we have in pigeon-houses, in their state of 
 nature. Rasay has no pigeon-house. There are no hares nor rabbits 
 n the island, nor was there ever known to be a fox, till last year, 
 when one was landed on it by some malicious person, without whose 
 aid he could not have got thither, as that animal is known to be a very 
 bad swimmer. He has done much mischief. There is a great deal of 
 fish caught in the sea round Rasay ; it is a place where one may live 
 iu plenty, and even in luxury. There are no deer; but Rasay told us 
 he would get some. 
 
 They reckon it rains nine months in the year in this island, owing 
 to its being directly opposite to the western coast of Sky, where the 
 watery clouds are broken by high mountains. The hills here, and 
 indeed all the heathy grounds in general, abound with the sweet 
 smelling plant which the Highlanders call gaul [sweet gale or bog- 
 myrtle], and (I think) with dwarf juniper in many places. There is 
 enough of turf, which is their fuel, and it is thought there is a mine 
 of coal. 
 
 Such are the observations which I made upon the island of Rasay,
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 135 
 
 upon comparing it with the description given by Martin, whose book 
 we had with us. 
 
 There has been an ancient league between the families of Mac- 
 donald and Rasay. Whenever the head of either family dies, his 
 sword is given to the head of the other. The present Rasay has the 
 late Sir James Macdonald's sword. Old Rasay joined the Highland 
 army in 1745, but prudently guarded against a forfeiture, by pre- 
 viously conveying his estate to the present gentleman, his eldest son. 
 On that occasion, Sir Alexander, father of the late Sir James Mac- 
 xlonald, was very friendly to his neighbour. " Do n't be afraid, Rasay," 
 said he ; " I'll use all my interest to keep you safe ; and if your estate 
 should be taken, I'll buy it for the family." And he would have 
 done it. 
 
 Let me now gather some gold dust, some more fragments of Dr. 
 Johnson's conversation, without regard to order of time. He said, 
 " he thought very highly of Bentley ; that no man now went so far 
 in the kinds of learning that he cultivated ; that the many attacks on 
 him were owing to envy, and to a desire of being known, by being in 
 competition with such a man ; that it was safe to attack him, because 
 lie never answered his opponents, but let them die away. It was at- 
 tacking a man who would not beat them, because his beating them 
 would make them live the longer." And he was right not to answer ; 
 for, in his hazardous method of writing, he could not but be often 
 enough wrong ; so it was better to leave things to their general ap- 
 pearance, than own himself to have erred in particulars. He said, 
 " Mallet w r as the prettiest dressed puppet about town, and always 
 kept good company. That, from his way of talking, he saw, and 
 always said, that he had not written any part of the "Life of the Duke 
 of Marlborough," though perhaps he intended to do it at some time, 
 in which case he was not culpable in taking the pension.* That lie 
 
 Sarah Duchess of Marlborough left by her will to Mr. Glover, the author of 
 " Leonidas,' ' and Mr. Mallet, jointly, the sum of 10002. and all the family papers, that they 
 might write a life of the great Duke. Glover declined the task, and the whole de- 
 volved upon Mallet. He received also a pension from the second Duke of Marlborough 
 to promote his industry, bat after his death it was found he had not written a line on 
 the subject. He may have intended to do it at some time, as Johnson apologetically 
 remarks, but his intention could not be very decided as he lived twenty-one years 
 after receiving the legacy. Davies, in his Life of Garrick, relates an amusing anecdote 
 connected with this unwritten Life of Marlborough. Mallet hinted to Garrick that he 
 had found a niche for him in the Life. The managerof course was overjoyed. " Well, 
 faith, Mallet, you have the art of surprising your friends in the most unexpected and 
 the politest manner ! But why won't you, now, who are so well qualified, write something 
 for the stage ? You should relax. Interpone tuis ha? you know ! for I am sure the 
 theatre is a mere matter of diversion, a pleasure to you." " Why," said the other, " to 
 tell you the truth, I have, whenever I could rob the Duke of an hour or so, employed 
 myself in adapting La Motte's ' Ines de Castro ' to the English stage, and here it is."
 
 13S JOUKNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 imagined the Duchess furnished the materials for her "Apology," which 
 Hooke wrote, and Hooke furnished the words and the order, and all 
 that in which the art of writing consists. That the Duchess had not 
 superior parts, but was a bold, frontless woman, who knew how to 
 make the most of her opportunities in life. That Hooke got a large 
 sum of money for writing her " Apology." That he wondered Hooke 
 should have been weak enough to insert so profligate a maxim, as 
 that to tell another's secret to one's friend, is no breach of confidence j 
 though perhaps Hooke, who was a virtuous man, as his history shows, 
 and did not wish her well, though he wrote her " Apology," might see 
 its ill tendency, and yet insert it at her desire. He was acting only 
 ministerially." I apprehend, however, that Hooke was bound to 
 give his best advice. I speak as a lawyer. Though I have had clients 
 whose causes I could not, as a private man, approve ; yet, if I under- 
 took them, I would not do anything that might be prejudicial ta 
 them, even at their desire, without warning them of their danger. 
 
 SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 11. 
 
 It was a storm of wind and rain ; so we could not set out. I wrote- 
 some of this Journal, and talked a while with Dr. Johnson in his room, 
 and passed the day, I cannot well say how, but very pleasantly. I 
 was here amused to find Mr. Cumberland's comedy of the " Fashionable 
 Lover," in which he has very well drawn a Highland character Colin 
 Macleod of the same name with the family under whose roof we now 
 were. Dr. Johnson was much pleased with the Laird of Macleod, who 
 is indeed a most promising youth, and with a noble spirit struggles 
 with difficulties and endeavours to preserve his people. He has been 
 left with an encumbrance of forty thousand pounds debt, and annuities 
 to the amount of thirteen hundred pounds a year. Dr. Johnson said : 
 " If he gets the better of all this, he'll be a hero ; and I hope he will. 
 I have not met with a young man who had more desire to learn, or 
 who has learnt more. I have seen nobody that I wish more to do a 
 kindness to than Macleod." Such was the honourable eulogium on this- 
 young chieftain, pronounced by an accurate observer, whose praise was 
 never lightly bestowed.* 
 
 The manager embraced " Elvira" with rapture, and brought it forward with all expedition. 
 With respect to Mallet's dress, alluded to by Johnson, Davies states that the poet'a 
 wife selected and purchased his clothes, and that his favourite dress was a suit of black 
 velvet ! On the whole Mallet was a very successful but unprincipled literary adven- 
 turer. His ballad of " William and Margaret," and his connexion with Pope and Gib- 
 bon, will carry his name down to posterity, but none will envy his fame. ED. 
 
 * Pennant is ao less eulogistic of the young laird. And at a subsequent period 
 Burns characterised him as 
 
 " a chieftain worth gowd, 
 
 Though bred amang mountains o' snaw."
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 137 
 
 There is neither justice-of-peace nor constable in Rasay. Sky has 
 Mr. Macleod of Ulinish, \vho is the sheriff-substitute, and no other 
 justicc-of-peace. The want of the execution of justice is much felt 
 among the islanders. Macleod very sensibly observed, that taking 
 away the heritable jurisdictions had not been of such service in the 
 islands as was imagined. They had not authority enough in lieu of 
 them. What could formerly have been settled at once, must now 
 either take much time and trouble or be neglected. Dr. Johnson said : 
 " A country is in a bad state which is governed only by laws ; because 
 a thousand things occur for which laws cannot provide, and where 
 authority ought to interpose. Now, destroying the authority of the 
 chiefs set the people loose. It did not pretend to bring any positive 
 good, but only to cure some evil ; and I am not well enough acquainted 
 with the country to know what degree of evil the heritable jurisdictions 
 occasioned." I maintained hardly any ; because the chiefs generally 
 acted right for their own sakes.* 
 
 For this compliment, however, Macleod was indebted to a circumstance which, 
 in Johnson's eyes, would have been a sad stain on his escutcheon at the period 
 of the French Revolution, he became one of the " Friends of the People." It was 
 unfortunate for his tenantry that Macleod imbibed the military spirit of the times, 
 and, by entering the army, divorced himself from Skye and Dunvegan. He raised 
 an independent company in 1776, and served in America. In 1780, he was appointed 
 Lieutenant-Colonel of the second battalion of the 42nd regiment, afterwards the 
 73rd, which he accompanied to India, distinguishing himself in various campaigns. 
 On his return to this country he was elected representative in Parliament for his 
 native county of Inverness. Macleod married early in life a daughter of Mackenzie 
 of Suddy, who died in 1784, while her husband was abroad as Commander-in-chief oa 
 the Malabar coast. He, himself died at Guernsey, August 16, 1801, being then in hi* 
 forty-seventh year, and holding the rank of LieutenantGeneral in the army. He left 
 son, John Norman Macleod, who was sometime M.P. for Sudbury, and died in 1835, 
 aged also forty-seven. General Macleod does not seem to have added the humble 
 virtue of economy to his acknowledged talents and bravery. He left the estate bur- 
 dened to the amount of 20,OOOJ. more than he received it, though he had sold part of 
 the ancient patrimony. His son was compelled still farther to reduce the Macleod 
 possessions, and the present laird, grandson of Johnson's host, entered upon an 
 estate greatly encumbered and with a anmerous population. The destitution crisis 
 of 1846 fell heavily on Skye ; Macleod fought manfully with his difficulties, and made 
 strenuous exertions to relieve and support his people; but he was ruined in the 
 struggle, and the property was placed under trust." ED. 
 
 * The Rev. Donald Macqueen, a highly competent authority on such a point, in his 
 communication to Pennant (1772), observes, that " while the spi rit of clanship preserved 
 any of its warmth, the chieftain seldom intended an injury; and when any was offered 
 it was soon demolished by the weight of a multitude ; but when this balance of power 
 was weakened and dissolved, the people lay much at mercy. In a time of long 
 minority, r when the proprietor took it into his head to visit London or Edinburgh, 
 the estate being left under the management of a bailiff, who generally was the steward 
 or factor, the rights of mankind were often trampled under foot." He adds, " In a 
 very seasonable hour the heritable jurisdictions were abolished ; and sheriffs depending; 
 upon the sovereign alone appointed to dispense justice, which was surely a great relief 
 to the lieges, where their sphere of action was not too extensive for themselves or
 
 138 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Dr. Johnson was now wishing to move. There was not enough of 
 intellectual entertainment for him, after he had satisfied his curiosity, 
 which he did by asking questions till he had exhausted the island ; 
 and where there was so numerous a company, mostly young people, 
 there was such a flow of familiar talk, so much noise, and so much 
 singing and dancing, that little opportunity was left for his energetic 
 conversation. He seemed sensible of this ; for when I told him how 
 happy they were at having him there, he said : " Yet we have not 
 been able to entertain them much." I was fretted, from irritability of 
 nerves, by M'Cruslick's too-obstreperous mirth. I complained of it to 
 my friend, observing we should be better if he was gone. " No, sir," 
 said he. " He puts something into our society, and takes nothing out 
 of it." Dr. Johnson, however, had several opportunities of instructing 
 the company ; but I am sorry to say, that I did not pay sufficient 
 attention to what passed, as his discourse now turned chiefly on 
 mechanics, agriculture, and such subjects, rather than on science and 
 wit. Last night Lady Rasay showed him the operation of icawkiny 
 cloth that is, thickening it in the same manner as is done by a mill. 
 Here it is performed by women, who kneel upon the ground and rub 
 it with both their hands, singing an Erse song all the time. He was 
 asking questions while they were performing this operation, and, 
 amidst their loud and wild howl, his voice was heard even in the 
 room above.* 
 
 They dance here every night. The queen of our ball was the eldest 
 Miss Macleod of Itasay, an elegant well-bred woman, and celebrated 
 for her beauty over all those regions by the name of Miss Flora 
 Hasay.f There seemed to be no jealousy no discontent among 
 them ; and the gaiety of the scene was such, that I for a moment 
 doubted whether unnappiness had any place in llasay.J But my 
 
 substitutes ; even in that case the people mustered up more spirit, and acquired 
 *ome knowledge of the rights they were born to." ED. 
 
 * The wawking of cloth is still a favourite employment, and always the occasion of 
 & gathering of neighbours and a raerry-making.r-ED. 
 
 t She had been sometime at Edinburgh, to which she again went, and was married 
 to my worthy neighbour, Colonel Mure Campbell, now Earl of Loudoun; but she died 
 eoon afterwards, leaving one daughter. BOSWELL. 
 
 J The little Court of Rasay, with its hospitality, elegance and beauty, is minutely 
 described by Johnson both in his "Journey" and in his letters to Mrs. Thrale. The 
 whole rental of the laird did not exceed 25W. a year, but he had a large farm in his 
 own hands, and every year sold numbers of cattle. The rental of the estate is new 
 1,021 1. 2s. 6d. of which about 4672. is paid by crofters or small tenants, at rents not exceed- 
 ing ten pounds each. Distress and priTation have reduced the poor islanders. " Before 
 1846," says the present Laird of Basay, " the chief means of livelihood of such as had 
 land were potatoes, the occasional sale of what overstock they reared of the small breed 
 of Highland cattle, supplemented by the proceeds of fishing, and by the earnings
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 13U 
 
 delusion was soon dispelled by recollecting the following lines of my 
 fellow-traveller : 
 
 " Yet hope not life from pain or danger free, 
 Or thiuk die doom of man reversed for tliee '." 
 
 SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 12. 
 
 It was a beautiful day ; and, although we did not approve of 
 travelling on Sunday, we resolved to set out, as we were in an island 
 from whence one must take occasion as it serves. Macleod and 
 Talisker sailed in a boat of Rasay's for Sconser, to take the shortest 
 way to Dunvegan. M'Cruslick went with them to Sconser, from 
 whence he was to go to Slate, and so to the main land. We were 
 resolved to pay a visit at Kingsburgh, and see the celebrated Miss 
 Flora Macdonald, who is married to the present Mr. Macdonald of 
 Kingsburgh ; so took that road, though not so near. All the family 
 but Lady Rasay walked down to the shore to see us depart, llasay 
 himself Avent with us in a large boat, with eight oars, built in his 
 island ; as did Mr. Malcolm Macleod, Mr. Donald Macqueen, Dr. Mac- 
 leod, and some others. AYe had a most pleasant sail between llasay 
 and Sky ; and passed by a cave where Martin says fowls were caught 
 by lighting fire in the mouth of it. Malcolm remembers this. But 
 it is not now practised, as few fowls come into it. 
 
 AVe spoke of death. Dr. Johnson on this subject observed, that the 
 boastings of some men as to dying easily were idle talk, proceeding from 
 partial views. 1 mentioned Hawthornden's " Cypress-grove," where 
 it is said that the world is a mere show, and that it is unreasonable 
 for a man to wish to continue in the show-room after he has seen it. 
 Let him go cheerfully out, and give place to other spectators. JOHN- 
 SOX : " Yes, sir, if he is sure he is to be well after he goes out of it. 
 But if he is to grow blind after he goes out of the show-room, and 
 never to see anything again, or if he does not know whither he is to 
 go next, a man will not go cheerfully out of a show-room. No wise 
 man will be contented to die, if he thinks he is to go into a state of 
 
 sometimes of the effective members of a family during a periodical emigration, at 
 summer and autumn, tt the Lowlands. Since 1845 two of these sources of livelihood 
 (being those connected with the land) have failed, and that simultaneously potatoes, 
 and the sale of cattle. The effects of the successive blights of the potato-crops have 
 been fully recognised. The small Highland cattle arc entirely out of favour with 
 the graziers and butchers, who, it is said, supply the demands more profitably by the 
 improved methods of stall-feeding the yeunger .portions of the larger and heavier 
 breeds of the South." (Report by Sir John M'Neill, 1851.) The Mansion-house ef 
 Rasay was greatly enlarged and almost rebuilt by the son of Johnson's liberal enter- 
 tainer, and was, with the estate, sold by the creditors of his grandson. The island 
 was purchased in 1846 by a Lowland gentleman, George Rainy, Esq. ; and Rasay, after 
 a possession of five centuries, was lost to the llacleods. Ei>.
 
 140 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 punishment. Nay, no wise man will be contented to die, if he thinks 
 he is to fall into annihilation; for, however unhappy any man's 
 existence may he, he yet would rather have it than not exist at all. 
 No ; there is no rational principle by which a man can die contented, 
 but a trust in the mercy of GOD, through the merits of Jesus Christ." 
 This short sermon, delivered with an earnest tone in a boat upon 
 the sea, which was perfectly calm, on a day appropriated to religious 
 worship, while every one listened with an air of satisfaction, had a 
 most pleasing effect upon my mind. 
 
 Pursuing the same train of serious reflection, he added, that it 
 seemed certain that happiness could not be found in this life, because- 
 so many had tried to find it in such a variety of ways, and had not 
 found it. 
 
 We reached the harbour of Portree, in Sky, which is a large and 
 good one. There was lying in it a vessel, to carry off the emigrants, 
 called the Nestor. It made a short settlement of the differences 
 between a chief and his clan : 
 
 Nestor componere lites 
 
 Inter Peleiden festinat et inter Atriden."* 
 
 We approached her, and she hoisted her colours. Dr. Johnson and 
 Mr. Macqueen remained in the boat ; Rasay and I and the rest went 
 on board of her. She was a very pretty vessel, and, as we were told, 
 the largest in Clyde. Mr. Harrison, the captain, showed her to us. 
 The cabin was commodious, and even elegant. There was a little 
 library, finely bound. Portree has its name from King James V. 
 having landed there in his tour through the Western Isles, Hee, in 
 Erse being king, as Re is in Italian ; so it is Port-royal. There was 
 here a tolerable inn. On our landing, I had the pleasure of finding a 
 letter from home ; and there were also letters to Dr. Johnson and me 
 from Lord Elibank, which had been sent after us from Edinburgh. 
 His lordship's letter to me was as follows : 
 
 DEAX BOSWELL, I flew to Edinburgh the moment I heard of Mr. Johnson's 
 arrival ; bnt so defective was my intelligence that I came too late. 
 
 It is but justice to believe that I could never forgive myself, nor deserve to be 
 forgiven by others, if I was to fail in any mark of respect to that very great genius. 
 I hold him in the highest veneration ; for that very reason I was resolved to take no 
 share in the merit, perhaps guilt, of enticing him to honour this country with a visit. 
 I conld not persuade myself there was anything in Scotland worthy to have a summer 
 of Samuel Johnson bestowed on it ; but since he has done us that compliment, for 
 Heaven's sake inform me of your motions. I will attend them most religiously ; and 
 though I should regret to let Mr. Johnson go a mile out of his way on my account, 
 
 * " While hoary Nestor, by experience wise, 
 To reconcile the angry monarchs tries." FRANCIS'S HORACE.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 141 
 
 old as I am I shall be glad to go five hundred miles to enjoy a day of his company. 
 Have the charity to send a council-post* with intelligence ; the post does not suit us 
 in the country. At any rate write to me. I will attend you in the north, when I 
 shall know where to find you. I am, my dear Boswell, your sincerely obedient, humble 
 servant, EUBANK. 
 
 August 21st, 1773. 
 
 The letter to Dr. Johnson was in these -words : 
 
 DEAR SIR, I was to have kissed your hands at Edinburgh the moment I heard of 
 you, but you was gone. 
 
 I hope my friend Boswell will inform me of your motions. It will be cruel to de- 
 prive me an instant of the honour of attending you. As I value you more than any 
 king in Christendom, I will perform that duty with infinitely greater alacrity than any 
 courtier. I can contribute but little to your entertainment ; but my sincere esteem for 
 you gives me some title to the opportunity of expressing it. 
 
 I dare say you are by this time sensible that things are pretty much the same a 
 when Buchanan complained of being born solo et secvlo inerudito [in an unlearned 
 country and age]. Let me hear of yon, and be persuaded that none of your admirers 
 is more sincerely devoted to you than, dear sir, your most obedient and most humble 
 servant, ELIBANK. 
 
 Dr. Johnson, on the following Tuesday, answered for both of us, 
 thus : 
 
 MY LORD? On the rugged shore of Skie I had the honour of your lordship's 
 letter, and can with great truth declare that no place is so gloomy but that it would be 
 cheered by such a testimony of regard from a mind so well qualified to estimate charac- 
 ters, and to deal out approbation in its due proportions. If I have more than my share, 
 it is your lordship's fault ; for I have always reverenced your judgment too much to 
 exalt myself in your presence by any false pretensions. 
 
 Mr. Boswell and I are at present at the disposal of the winds, and therefore cannot 
 fix the time at which we shall have the honour of seeing your lordship. But we 
 hould either of us think ourselves injured by the supposition that we would miss your 
 lordship's conversation when we could enjoy it ; for I have often declared that I never 
 met yon without going away a wiser man. I am, my Lord, your lordship's most obe- 
 dient and most humble servant, 
 
 Skie, Sept. 14, 1773. SAM. JOHNSON. 
 
 At Portree, Mr. Donald Macqueen went to church and officiated 
 in Erse, and then came to dinner. Dr. Johnson and I resolved that 
 we should treat the company, so I played the landlord, or master of 
 the feast, having previously ordered Joseph to pay the bill. 
 
 Sir James Macdonald intended to have built a village here, which 
 would have done great good.f A village is like a heart to a country. 
 
 A term in Scotland for a special messenger, such as was formerly sent with dis- 
 patches by the lords of the council. BOSWELL. 
 
 t There is now a village at Portree containimg about three hundred inhabitants, a 
 post-office, to which there is a post three times a week, two banks, and a Court-house 
 in which the Sheriff-substitute of the Skye district of the county holds his Courts. 
 ED
 
 148 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 It produces a perpetual circulation, and gives the people an opportu- 
 nity to make profit of many little articles, which would otherwise be 
 in a good measure lost. We had here a dinner, et praterca nihil. 
 Dr. Johnson did not talk. When we were about to depart, we found 
 that llasay had been before-hand Avith us, and that all was paid : I 
 would fain have contested this matter with him, but seeing him re- 
 solved, I declined it. We parted with cordial embraces from him and 
 worthy Malcolm. In the evening Dr. Johnson and I remounted our 
 horses, accompanied by Mr. Macqucen and Dr. Macleod. It rained 
 very hard. We rode what they call six miles, upon llasay's lands in 
 Sky, to Dr. Macleod's house.* On the road Dr. Johnson appeared to 
 he somewhat out of spirits. When I talked of our meeting Lord 
 Elibank, he said : " I cannot be with him much. I long to be again 
 in civilised life; but can stay but a short while;" (he meant at 
 Edinburgh.) He said, " let us go to Dunvegan to-morrow." "Yes," 
 said I, " if it is not a deluge." " At any rate," he replied. This 
 showed a kind of fretful impatience ; nor was it to be wondered at, 
 considering our disagreeable ride. I feared he would give up Mull 
 and Icolmkill, for he said something of his apprehensions of being 
 detained by bad weather in going to Mull and lona. However I 
 hoped well. We had a dish of tea at Dr. Macleod's, who had a 
 pretty good house, where was his brother, a half-pay officer. Hi* 
 lady was a polite, agreeable woman. Dr. Johnson said, he was glad 
 to see that he was so well married, for he had an esteem for physicians. 
 The doctor accompanied us to Kingsburgh, which is called a mile 
 farther; but the computation of Sky has no connection whatever with 
 real distance. 
 
 I was highly pleased to see Dr. Johnson safely arrived at Kings- 
 burgh, and received by the hospitable Mr. Macdonald, who, with a 
 most respectful attention, supported him into the house. Kingsburgh 
 was completely the figure of a gallant Highlander, exhibiting " the 
 graceful mien and manly looks," which our popular Scotch song has 
 justly attributed to that character. He had his tartan plaid thrown 
 about him, a large blue bonnet with a knot of black ribband like a 
 cockade, a brown short coat of a kind of duffil, a tartan waistcoat 
 with gold buttons and gold button-holes, a bluish philabeg, and tartau 
 hose. He had jet black hair tied behind, and was a large stately man, 
 with a steady sensible countenance. 
 
 There was a comfortable parlour with a good fire, and a dram 
 went round. By and by supper was served, at which there appeared 
 the lady of the house, the celebrated Miss Flora Macdonald. She is a 
 
 The Highland computation here was not so wide of the mark. Dr. JIacieo.i * 
 house at Eyre was barely eight miles from Portree. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 Itt 
 
 FLORA MACDOHAtD. 
 
 little woman, of a genteel 
 appearance, and uncommonly 
 mild and well-bred. To see 
 Dr. Samuel Johnson, the great 
 champion of the English Tories, 
 salute Miss Flora Macdonald in 
 the isle of Sky, was a striking 
 sight ; for, though somewhat 
 congenial in their notions, it 
 was very improbable they 
 should meet here. 
 
 Miss Flora Macdonald (for 
 so I shall call her) told me, she 
 heard upon the main land, as 
 she was returning home about 
 a fortnight before, that Mr. 
 Boswell was coming to Sky, 
 and one Mr. Johnson, a young 
 English buck, with him. He 
 was highly entertained with this fancy. Giving an account of the 
 afternoon which we passed, at Anoch, he said, " I, being a buck, had 
 miss in to make tea." He was rather quiescent to-night, and went 
 early to bed. I was in a cordial humour, and promoted a cheerful 
 glass. The punch was excellent. Honest Mr. Macqueen observed 
 that I was in high glee, " my governor being gone to bed." Yet in 
 reality my heart was grieved, when I recollected that Kingsburgh 
 was embarrassed in his affairs, and intended to go to America. How- 
 ever, nothing but what was good was present, and I pleased myself 
 in thinking that so spirited a man would be well everywhere. I 
 slept in the same room with Dr. Johnson. Each had a neat bed, with 
 tartan curtains, in an upper chamber.* 
 
 * The old Kingsburgh mansion, which sheltered Charles Edward in 174fi, anil 
 afforded entertainment to Pennant and Johnson, has, we regret to say, been removed. 
 The building is entirely gone, but some venerable plane-trees mark the square of a 
 large garden that was attached to the house. One of these grew close to the house, 
 and at the time of our inquiries the respectable tenant of Kingsburgh (Mr. Macleod) 
 was sending part of the timber to a lady in England, to be mode into a frame for a> 
 picture of Flora Macdonald. This may be considered part of the bright reversion of 
 fame which has waited on the memory ef the Celtic heroine. In 1750 Flora was 
 married to Allan Macdonald, young Kingsburgh, who then lived at Flodigarry, in Skye. 
 The gallant old Kingsburgh died in 1772, and his son succeeding him in the farm, 
 Flora became the mistress of the house of Kingsburgb. The family seems to have emi- 
 grated in the year following Johnson's visit. They went to North Carolina, and Kings- 
 burgh joined the Royal Highland Emigrant Regiment, or 84th, embodied in 1775. This 
 corps was defeated by the Provincial forces in February 1776, and parties of men were 
 dispersed over the colony apprehending the Royalists and disarming the Highlanders
 
 114 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 13. 
 
 The room where we lay was a celebrated one. Dr. Johnson's bed 
 was the very bed in which the grandson of the unfortunate King 
 James the Second* lay, on one of the nights after the failure of his 
 rash attempt in 1745-6, while he was eluding the pursuit of the 
 emissaries of government, which had offered thirty thousand pounds 
 as a reward for apprehending him. To see Dr. Samuel Johnson 
 lying in that bed, in the isle of Sky, in the house of Miss Flora Mac- 
 donald, struck me with such a group of ideas as it is not easy for 
 words to describe, as they passed through the mind. He smiled, and 
 said, " I have had no ambitious thoughts in it.f The room was de- 
 corated with a great variety of maps and prints. Among others was 
 
 Among those committed to Halifax gaol was " Kiagsburgh Macdonald." He after- 
 wards served with the regiment in Canada, holding the rank of captain, and at the 
 close of the war returned to Scotland on half-pay. The vessel in wkich|Flora and her 
 husband sailed was attacked by a French privateer, and while Flora, with character- 
 istic spirit, stood on deck, animating the seamen, she was thrown down and had her 
 arm broken. The wanderers, however, arrived in Skye, and never left it. Flora died 
 on the 4th of March, 1790, aged sixty-eight, and was interred in the churchyard of 
 Eilmnir, in a spot set apart for the graves of the Kingsburgh family. Her funeral was 
 attended by about three thousand persons, all of whom were served with refreshments, 
 in the old Highland fashion. Kingsburgh died on the 20th of September, 171*5. Flora 
 had seven children, five sons and two daughters ; the sons all became officers in the 
 army, and the daughters officers' wives. The last surviving member of this family, 
 Mrs. Major Macleod, died at Stein, in Skye, in 183*, leaving a daughter, Miss Mary 
 Macleod, who resides in the same place. One of the sons (the late Colonel Macdonald, of 
 Exeter) sent a marble slab, suitably inscribed, to be placed near his mother's remains 
 to point out the spot ; but it was broken ere it reached Skye, and the whole has since 
 been carried off piecemeal by tourists. Thua the grave of Flora Macdonald remains 
 undistinguished within the rude inclosore that holds the dust of so many of the 
 brave Kingsburgh family. ED. 
 
 * I do not call him " the Prince of Wales," or " the Prince," because I am quite 
 satisfied that the right which the House of Stuart had to the throne is extinguished. 
 I do not call him " the Pretender," because it appears to me as an insult to one who is 
 still alive, and, I suppose, thinks very differently. It may be a parliamentary expres- 
 sion, but it is not a gentlemanly expression. I know, and I exult in having it in my 
 power to tell, that the only perton in the world who is entitled to be offended at this 
 delicacy thinks and feels aa I do, and has liberality of mind and generosity of senti- 
 ment enough to approve of my tenderness for what even has been blood royal. That 
 he is a prince by courtesy cannot be denied, because his mother was the daughter of 
 Sobieski, King of Poland. I shall, therefore, on that account alone, distinguish him 
 by the name of " Prince Charles Edward." BOSWELL. 
 
 r This, perhaps, was said in allusion to some lines ascribed to Pope, on his lying, 
 at John Duke of Argyle's, at Adderbury, in the same bed in which Wilmot, Earl of 
 Rochester had slept. 
 
 " With no poetic ardour fired, 
 
 I press the bed where Wilmot lay; 
 That here he lived or here expired 
 
 Begets no numbers, grave or gay." BOSWELL.
 
 TO Till: HEBRIDES. 11 : 
 
 Hogarth's print of Wilkes grinning, with a cap of liberty on a pole 
 by him. That, too, was a curious circumstance in the scene this morn- 
 ing ; such a contrast was Wilkcs to the above group. It reminded 
 me of Sir William Chambcrs's " Account of Oriental Gardening," in 
 which we arc told all odd, strange, ugly, and even terrible objects, 
 are introduced for the sake of variety; a wild extravagance of taste 
 which is so well ridiculed in the celebrated Epistle to him [by Mason]. 
 The following lines of that poem immediately occurred to me : 
 
 " Here, too, king of vengeance, in thy fane, 
 Tremendous Wilkes shall rattle his ^old chain." 
 
 Upon the table in our room I found in the morning a slip of paper, on 
 which Dr. Johnson had written with his pencil these words: 
 
 " Quantum ccdat virtutibus aurum."* 
 
 What he meant by writing them I could not tell.f He had caught 
 cold a day or two ago, and the rain yesterday having made it worse, 
 he was become very deaf. At breakfast he said, he would have given 
 a good deal rather than not have lain in that bed. I owned he was 
 the lucky man ; and observed, that without doubt it had been con- 
 trived between Mrs. Macdonald and him. She seemed to acquiesce, 
 adding, "You know young bucks are always favourites of the ladies." 
 He spoke of Prince Charles being here, and asked Mrs. Macdonald 
 " Who was with him? We were told, madam, in England, there 
 was one Miss Flora Macdonald with him." She said, " They were 
 very right ; " and perceiving Dr. Johnson's curiosity, though he had 
 delicacy enough not to question her, very obligingly entertained him 
 with a recital of the particulars which she herself knew of that 
 escape, which does so much honour to the humanity, fidelity and 
 generosity, of the Highlanders. Dr. Johnson listened to her with 
 placid attention, and said, " All this should be written down." 
 
 From what she told us, and from what I was told by others per- 
 sonally concerned, and from a paper of information which Kasay was 
 so good as to send me, at my desire, I have compiled the following 
 abstract, which, as it contains some curious anecdotes, will, I imagine, 
 
 With virtue weighed, what worthless trash is geld I IBID. 
 
 t Since the first edition of this book an ingenious friend has observed to me, that 
 Dr. Johnson hal probably been thinking on the reward which was offered by Govern- 
 ment for the apprehension of the grandson of King James II., and that he meant by 
 these words to express his admiration of the Highlanders, whose fidelity and attach- 
 ment had resisted the golden temptation that had been held out to them. BOSWELL. 
 [Or he might have alluded to tho high-minded character and principles of his 
 hostess as contrasted with the embarrassed state of her husband's affairs ; as if ho 
 had said, " What would wealth be when weighed against such virtuous fame?" ED.] 
 
 K
 
 146 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 not be uninteresting to my readers, and even, perhaps, be of some 
 use to future historians. 
 
 Prince Charles Edward, after the battle of Culloden, was conveyed" 
 to what is called the Long Island, where he lay for some time con- 
 cealed. But intelligence having been obtained where he was, and a 
 number of troops having come in quest of him, it became absolutely 
 necessary for liim to quit that country without delay. Miss Flora 
 Macdonald, then a young lady, animated by what she thought the 
 sacred principal of loyalty, offered, with the magnanimity of a heroine,, 
 to accompany him in an open boat to Sky, though the coast they were 
 to quit was guarded by ships. He dressed himself in women's- 
 clothes, and passed as her supposed maid, by the name of Betty 
 Bourke, an Irish girl.* They got off undiscovered, though several 
 shots were fired to bring them to, and landed at Mugstot, the seat of 
 Sir Alexander Macdonald. Sir Alexander was then at Fort Augustus, 
 with the Duke of Cumberland ; but his lady was at home. Prince 
 Charles took his post upon a hill near the house. Flora Macdonald 
 waited on Lady Margaret, and acquainted her of the enterprise in 
 which she was engaged. Her ladyship, whose active benevolence 
 was ever seconded by superior talents, showed a perfect presence of 
 mind, and readiness of invention, and at once settled that Prince 
 Charles should be conducted to old Rasay, who was himself concealed 
 with some select friends. The plan -was instantly communicated to- 
 Kingsburgh, who was dispatched to the hill to inform the wanderer,, 
 and carry him refreshments. When Kingsburgh approached, he 
 started up, and advanced, holding a large knotted stick, and in ap- 
 pearance ready to knock him down, till he said : " I am Macdonald of 
 Kingsburgh, come to serve your highness." The wanderer answered,. 
 "It is well," and was satisfied with the plan. 
 
 Flora Macdonald dined with Lady Margaret, at whose table there 
 sat an officer of the army, stationed here with a party of soldiers, to- 
 watch for Prince Charles in case of his flying to the Isle of Sky. She 
 afterwards often laughed in ^good humour with this gentleman, on her 
 having so well deceived him. 
 
 After dinner, Flora Macdonald on horseback, and her supposed 
 
 * She procured a passport from Captain Hugh Macdonald, who commanded the- 
 Macdonald Militia, in South Uist. Captain Macdonald was father-in-law to Miss Mac- 
 donald. The Prince was denominated "Betty Burke" in the passport, and recom- 
 mended by Captain Macdonald to his wife, at Armidale, in Skye, as an " excellent spin- 
 ner of flax, and a faithful servant" " Narrative of Flora Macdonald, in Home's Hist, 
 of the Rebellion." ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 147 
 
 maid, and Kingsburgh, with a servant carrying some linen, all on foot, 
 proceeded towards that gentleman's house. Upon the road was a 
 small rivulet which they were obliged to cross. The wanderer, for- 
 getting his assumed sex, that his clothes might not be wet, held them 
 up a great deal too high. Kingsburgh mentioned this to him, ob- 
 serving, it might make a discovery. He said, he would be more 
 careful for the future. He was as good as his word ; for the next 
 brook he crossed, he did not hold up his clothes at all, but let them 
 float upon the water. He was very awkward in his female dress.* 
 His size was so large, and his strides so great, that some women 
 whom they met reported that they had seen a very big woman, who 
 looked like a man in woman's clothes, and that perhaps it was (as 
 they expressed themselves) the Prince, after whom so much search 
 was making. 
 
 At Kingsburgh he met with a most cordial reception ; seemed gay 
 at supper, and after it, indulged himself in a cheerful glass with his 
 worthy host. As he had not had his clothes off for a long time, the 
 comfort of a good bed was highly relished by him, and he slept 
 soundly till next day at one o'clock. 
 
 The mistress of Corrichatachin told me, that in the forenoon she 
 went into her father's room, who was also in bed, and suggested to 
 him her apprehensions that a party of the military might come up, 
 and that his guest and he had better not remain here too long. Her 
 father said, " Let the poor man repose himself after his fatigues ; and 
 as for me, I care not, though they take off this old grey head ten or 
 eleven years sooner than I should die in the course of nature." 
 He then wrapped himself in the bed-clothes, and again fell fast 
 asleep. 
 
 On the afternoon of that day, the Wanderer, still in the same dress, 
 set out for Portree, with Flora Macdonald and a man-servant. His 
 shoes being very Had, Kingsburgh provided him with a new pair, 
 and taking up the old ones, said, " I will faithfully keep them till 
 you are safely settled at St. James's. I will then introduce myself 
 by shaking them at you, to put you in mind of your night's enter- 
 tainment and protection under my roof." He smiled, and said, " Be 
 as good as your word !" Kingsburgh kept the shoes as long as he 
 lived. After his death, a zealous Jacobite gentleman gave twenty 
 guineas for them. 
 
 Old Mrs. Macdonald, after her guest had left the house, took the 
 sheets in which he had lain, folded them carefully, and charged her 
 daughter that they should be kept unwashed, and that, when she 
 
 * Hence Kingsburgh is said to have remarked," Your enemies call you a Pretender 
 but if you be, I can tell you you are the worst at the trade I ever saw." ED. 
 
 K2
 
 148 
 
 JOrilXAI. OF A TOUE 
 
 riUXCE CII-U'.LES EDWARD. 
 
 died, her body should be wrapped 
 in them as a winding sheet. I Lei- 
 will was religiously observed.* 
 
 Upon the road to Portree, 
 Prince Charles changed his dress, 
 and put on man's clothes again ; 
 a tartan short coat and waistcoat, 
 with philabeg and short hose, a 
 plaid, and a wig and bonnet. 
 
 Mr. Donald Macdonald, called 
 Donald Roy, had been sent ex- 
 press to the present llasay, then 
 the young laird, who was at that 
 time at his sister's house, about 
 three miles from Portree, attend- 
 ing his brother, Dr. Macleod, who 
 was recovering of a wound he had received at the battle of Culloden. 
 Mr. Macdonald communicated to young Rasay the plan of conveying 
 the AVanderer to where old llasay was ; but was told that old Rasay 
 had fled to Knoidart, a part of Glengary's estate. There was then a 
 dilemma what should be done. Donald Roy proposed that he should 
 conduct the Wanderer to the main land ; but young Rasay thought 
 it too dangerous at that time, and said it would be better to conceal 
 him in the island of Rasay, till old Rasay could be informed where 
 he Avas, and give his advice what was best. But the difficulty was, 
 how to get him to Rasay. They could not trust a Portree crew, 
 and all the Rasaj r boats had been destroyed, or carried off by the 
 military, except two belonging to Malcolm Macleod, which he had 
 concealed somewhere. 
 
 Dr. Macleod being informed of this difficulty, said he would risk 
 his life once more for Prince Charles ; and it having occurred that 
 there was a little boat upon a fresh-water lake in the neighbourhood, 
 young Rasa j" and Dr. Macleod, with the help of some women, 
 brought it to the sea, by extraordinary exertion, across a Highland 
 mile of land, one half of which was bog, and the other a steep 
 precipice. 
 
 These gallant brothers, with the assistance of one little boy, rowed 
 the small boat to Rasay, where they were to endeavour to find Cap- 
 tain Macleod, as Malcolm was then called, and get one of his good 
 
 * It has been stated that part of the sheets was given to Flora Macdonald, and, after 
 nccompanying her in all her wanderings, served for her shroud and was interred with 
 hr. It is remarkable, however, that Flora, if she retained such a relic, should not 
 have mentioned the circumstance to Boswell when relating the above facts. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 149 
 
 boats, with which they might return to Portree, and receive the 
 Wanderer ; or, in case of not finding him, they were to make the 
 small boat serve, though the danger was considerable. 
 
 Fortunately, on their first landing they found their cousin Malcolm, 
 who, with the utmost alacrity, got ready one of his boats, with 
 two strong men, John Mackenzie, and Donald Macfriar. Malcolm, 
 being the oldest man, and most cautious, said, that as young Rasay 
 had not hitherto appeared in the unfortunate business, he ought not 
 to run any risk ; but that Dr. Macleod and himself, who were already 
 publicly engaged, should go on this expedition. Young Rasay 
 answered, with an oath, that he would go, at the risk of his life and 
 fortune. "In God's name then," said Malcolm, "let us proceed." 
 The two boatmen, however, now stopped short, till they should be 
 informed of their destination ; and Mackenzie declared he would not 
 move an oar till he knew where they were going. Upon which they 
 were both sworn to secrecy ; and the business being imparted to 
 them, they were eager to put off to sea without loss of time. The 
 boat soon landed about half a mile from the inn at Portree. 
 
 All this was negotiated before the Wanderer got forward to 
 Portree. Malcolm Macleod and Macfriar were dispatched to look 
 for him. In a short time he appeared, and went into the public 
 house. Here Donald Roy, whom he had seeen at Mugstot, received 
 him, and informed him of what had been concerted. He wanted 
 silver for a guinea, but the landlord had only thirteen shillings. He 
 was going to accept of this for his guinea ; but Donald Roy very 
 judiciously observed, that it would discover him to be some great 
 man ; so he desisted. He slipped out of the house, leaving his fair 
 protectress, whom he never again saw ; and Malcolm Macleod was 
 presented to him by Donald Roy, as a captain in his army. Young 
 Rasay and Dr. Macleod had waited in impatient anxiety in the boat. 
 When he came, their names were announced to him. He would not 
 permit the usual ceremonies of respect, but saluted them as his equals. 
 
 Donald Roy stayed in Sky, to be in readiness to get intelligence, 
 and give an alarm in case the troops should discover the retreat to 
 Rasay ; and Prince Charles was then conveyed in a boat to that 
 island in the night. He slept a little upon the passage, and they 
 landed about daybreak. There was some difficulty in accommodating 
 him with a lodging, as almost all the houses in the island had been 
 burnt by the soldiery. They repaired to a little hut, which some 
 shepherds had lately built, and having prepared it as well as they 
 could, and made a bed of heath for the stranger, they kindled a fire, 
 and partook of some provisions which had been sent with him from 
 Kingsburgh. It was observed, that he would not taste wheat-bread, or
 
 150 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 brandy, while oat-bread and whiskey lasted ; " for these," said he, 
 " are my own country bread and drink." This was very engaging 
 to the Highlanders. 
 
 Young Rasay being the only person of the company that durst 
 appear -with safety, he went in quest of something fresh for them to 
 eat : but though he was amidst his own cows, sheep, and goats, he 
 could not venture to take any of them for fear of a discovery, but was 
 obliged to supply himself by stealth. He therefore caught a kid, 
 and brought it to the hut in his plaid, and it was killed and drest, 
 and furnished them a meal which they relished much. The dis- 
 tressed Wanderer, whose health was now a good deal impaired by 
 hunger, fatigue, and watching, slept a long time, but seemed to be 
 frequently disturbed. Malcolm told me he would start from broken 
 slumbers, and speak to himself in different languages French, Italian, 
 and English. I must, however, acknowledge that it is highly 
 probable that my worthy friend Malcolm did not know precisely the 
 difference between French and Italian. One of his expressions in 
 English was, " God ! poor Scotland !" 
 
 While they were in the hut, Mackenzie and Macfriar, the two 
 boatmen, were placed as sentinels upon different eminences ; and one 
 day an incident happened, which must not be omitted. There was a 
 man wandering about the island, selling tobacco. Nobody knew 
 him, and he was suspected to be a spy. Mackenzie came running 
 to the hut, and told that this suspected person was approaching. 
 Upon which, the three gentlemen, young Rasay, Dr. Macleod, and 
 Malcolm, held a council of war upon him, and were unanimously of 
 opinion that he should instantly be put to death. Prince Charles, at 
 once, assuming a grave and even severe countenance, said, " God for- 
 bid that we should take away a man's life, who may be innocent, 
 while we can preserve our own." The gentlemen, however, per- 
 sisted in their resolution, while he as strenously continued to take 
 the merciful side. John Mackenzie, who sat watching at the door of 
 the hut, and overheard the debate, said, in Erse, " Well, well ; he 
 must be shot ; you are the king, but we are the parliament, and will 
 do what we choose." Prince Charles, seeing the gentlemen smile, 
 asked what the man had said, and being told it in English, he 
 observed that he was a clever fellow, and, notwithstanding the 
 perilous situation in which he was, laughed loud and heartily. 
 Luckily, the unknown person did not perceive that there were 
 people in the hut at least did not come to it, but walked on past it, 
 unknowing of his risk. It was afterwards found out that he was one 
 of the Highland army, who was himself in danger. Had he come to 
 them, they were resolved to dispatch him ; for, as Malcolm said to me,
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 151 
 
 " We could not keep him with us, and we durst not let him go." 
 In such a situation I would have shot my brother, if I had not been 
 sure of him." John Mackenzie was at Rasay's house when we were 
 there.* About eighteen years before, he hurt one of his legs when 
 dancing, and being obliged to have it cut off, he now was going 
 about with a wooden leg. The story of his being a member of 
 parliament is not yet forgotten. I took him out a little way from the 
 house, gave him a shilling to drink Rasay's health, and led him 
 into a detail of the particulars which I have just related. With less 
 foundation, some writers have traced the idea of a parliament, and of 
 the British constitution, in rude and early times. I was curious to 
 know if he had really heard, or understood, anything of that subject, 
 which, had he been a greater man, would probably have been eagerly 
 maintained. " Why, John," said I, " did you think the king should 
 be controlled by a parliament?" He answered, "I thought, sir, 
 there were many voices against one." 
 
 The conversation then turning on the times, the Wanderer said, 
 that, to be sure, the life he had led of late was a very hard one ; but 
 he would rather live in the way he now did, for ten years, than fall 
 into the hands of his enemies. The gentleman asked him what he 
 thought his enemies would do with him should he have the misfortune 
 to fall into their hands. He said he did not believe they would dare 
 to take his life publicly, but he dreaded being privately destroyed by 
 poison or assassination. He was very particular in his inquiries 
 about the wound which Dr. Macleod had received at the battle of 
 Culloden, from a ball which entered at one shoulder, and went across 
 to the other. The doctor happened still to have on the coat which 
 he wore on that occasion. He mentioned, that he himself had his 
 horse shot under him at Culloden ; that the ball hit the horse about 
 two inches from his knee, and made him so unruly that he was 
 obliged to change him for another. He threw out some reflection on 
 the conduct of the disastrous affair at Culloden, saying, however, that 
 perhaps it was rash in him to do so. I am now convinced that his 
 suspicions were groundless ; for I have had a good deal of conversa- 
 tion upon the subject with my very worthy and ingenious friend, Mr. 
 Andrew Lumisden , who was un der secretary to Prince Charles, and after- 
 wards principal secretary to his father at Rome, who, he assured me, 
 was perfectly satisfied both of the abilities and honour of the generals 
 who commanded the Highland army on that occasion. Mr. Lumisden 
 has written an account of the three battles in 17456, at once accu- 
 rate and classical. Talking of the different Highland corps, the 
 
 * This old Scottish member of parliament, I am informed, is still living (1785). 
 Bos WE LI.
 
 153 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 gentlemen who were present wished to have his opinion which were 
 the best soldiers. He said he did not like comparisons among those 
 corps : they were all best. 
 
 He told his conductors he did not think it advisable to remain 
 long in any one place ; and that he expected a French ship to come 
 for him to Lochbroom, among the Mackenzies. It then was proposed 
 to carry him in one of Malcolm's boats to Lochbroom, though the 
 distance was fifteen leagues coastwise. But he thought this would 
 be too dangerous, and desired that, at any rate, they might first 
 endeavour to obtain intelligence. Upon which, young Itasay wrote 
 to his friend, Mr. Mackenzie of Applecross, but received an answer, 
 that there was no appearance of any French ship. 
 
 It was therefore resolved that they should return to Sky, which 
 they did, and landed in Strath, where they reposed in a cow-house 
 belonging to Mr. Nicolson, of Scorbreck. The sea was very rough, 
 and the boat took in a good deal of water. The Wanderer asked if 
 there was danger, as he was not used to such a vessel. Upon being 
 told there was not, he sung an Erse song with much vivacity. He- 
 had by this time acquired a good deal of the Erse language. 
 
 Young Rasay was now dispatched to where Donald Roy was, 
 that they might get all the intelligence they could ; and the Wan 
 dcrer, with much earnestness, charged Dr. Macleod to have a boat 
 ready, at a certain place, about seven miles off, as he said he intended 
 it should carry him upon a matter of great consequence; and gave the 
 doctor a case, containing a silver spoon, knife, and fork, saying, 
 " Keep you that till I see you," which the doctor understood to be two 
 days from that time. But all these orders were only blinds ; for ho 
 had another plan in his head, but wisely thought it safest to trust his- 
 secrets to no more persons than was absolutely necessary. Having 
 then desired Malcolm to walk with him a little way from the house, 
 he soon opened his mind, saying, " I deliver myself to you ; conduct 
 me to the Laird of Mackinnon's country." Malcolm objected that it 
 was very dangerous, as so many parties of soldiers were in motion. 
 He answered "There is nothing now to be done without danger." 
 He then said that Malcolm must be the master, and he the servant - r 
 so he took the bag in which his linen was put up, and carried it OH 
 his shoulder ; and observing that his waistcoat, which was of scarlet 
 tartan, with a gold twist button, was finer than Malcolm's, which was 
 of a plain, ordinary tartan, he put on Malcolm's waistcoat, and gave 
 him his ; remarking, at the same time, that it did not look well that 
 the servant should be better dressed than the master. 
 
 Malcolm, though an excellent walker, found himself excelled by 
 Prince Charles, who told him he should not much mind the parties
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 163 
 
 that were looking for him, were he once but a musket shot from 
 them ; but that he was somewhat afraid of the Highlanders who were 
 against him. He was well used to walking in Italy, in pursuit of 
 game; and he was even now so keen a sportsman, that, having 
 observed some partridges, he was going to take a shot : but Malcolm 
 cautioned him against it, observing that the firing might be heard by 
 the tenders, who were hovering upon the coast. 
 
 As they proceeded through the mountains, taking many a circuit 
 to avoid any houses, Malcolm, to try his resolution, asked him what 
 they should do, should they fall in with a party of soldiers ? he 
 answered, " Fight, to be sure !" Having asked Malcolm if he should 
 bo known in his present dress, and Malcolm having replied he would, 
 he said, " Then I'll blacken my face with powder." " That," said 
 Malcolm, " would discover you at once. " Then," said he, " I must 
 be put in the greatest dishabille possible." So he pulled off his wig, 
 tied a handkerchief round his head, and put his night-cap over it, 
 tore the ruffles from his shirt, took the buckles out of his shoes, and 
 made Malcolm fasten them with strings ; but still Malcolm thought 
 he would be known. " I have so odd a face," said he, " that no man 
 ever saw me, but he would know me again." 
 
 He seemed unwilling to give credit to the horrid narrative of men 
 being massacred in cold blood, after victory had declared for the 
 army commanded by the Duke of Cumberland; he could not allow 
 himself to think that a general could be so barbarous. 
 
 When they came within two miles of Mackinnons's house, Malcolm 
 asked if he chose to see the laird. " No," said he, " by no means ; I 
 know Mackinnon to be as good and as honest a man as any in the 
 world, but he is not fit for my purpose at present. You must con- 
 duct me to some other house, but let it be a gentleman's house. Mal- 
 colm then determined that they should go to the house of his brother- 
 in-law, Mr. John Mackinnon, and from thence be conveyed to the 
 main-land of Scotland, and claim the assistance of Macclonald of 
 Scothouse. The Wanderer at first objected to this, because Scot- 
 house was cousin to a person of whom he had suspicious ; but he 
 acquiesced in Malcolm's opinion. 
 
 When they were near Mr. John Mackinnon's house, they met a 
 man of the name of Ross, who had been a private soldier in the- 
 Highland army. He fixed his eyes steadily on the Wanderer in his 
 disguise, and having at once recognised him, he clapped his hands, 
 and exclaimed, " Alas ! is this the case ?" Finding that there was 
 now a discovery, Malcolm asked, " What 's to be done ?" " Swear 
 him to secrecy," answered Prince Charles. Upon which Malcolm 
 drew his dirk, and on the naked blade made him take a solemn oath,
 
 154 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 that he would say nothing of his having seen the Wanderer, till his 
 escape should he made public. 
 
 Malcolm's sister, whose house they reached pretty early in the 
 morning, asked him who the person was that was along with him ? 
 He said it was one Lewis Caw, from Crieff, who being a fugitive 
 like himself, for the same reason, he had engaged him as his servant, 
 but that he had fallen sick. " Poor man," said she, " I pity him. At 
 the same time my heart warms to a man of his appearance." Her 
 husband was gone a little way from home, but was expected every 
 minute to return. She set down to her brother a plentiful Highland 
 breakfast. Prince Charles acted the servant very well, sitting at a 
 respectful distance, with his bonnet off. Malcolm then said to him, 
 " Mr. Caw, you have as much need of this as I have ; there is enough 
 for us both ; you had better draw nearer and share with me." Upon 
 which he rose, made a profound bow, sat down at table with his 
 supposed master, and eat very heartily. After this, there came in an 
 old Avoman, who, after the mode of ancient hospitality, brought warm 
 water, and washed Malcolm's feet. He desired her to wash the feet 
 of the poor man who attended him. She at first seemed averse to 
 this, from pride, as thinking him beneath her, and in the periphrastic 
 language of the Highlanders and the Irish, said, warmly, " Though I 
 washed your father's son's feet, why should I wash his father's son's 
 feet ?" She was, however, persuaded to do it. 
 
 They then went to bed, and slept for some time ; and when 
 Malcolm awaked, he was told that Mr. John Mackinnon, his 
 brother-in-law, was in sight. He sprang out to talk to him before 
 he should see Prince Charles. After saluting him, Malcolm, pointing 
 to the sea, said, " What, John, if the prince should be prisoner on 
 board one of those tenders ?" "God forbid!" replied John. "What 
 if we had him here ?" said Malcolm. " I wish we had," answered 
 John ; we should take care of him." " Well, John," said Malcolm 
 " he is in your house." John, in a transport of joy, wanted to run 
 directly in, and pay his obeisance ; but Malcolm stopped him, saying, 
 " Now is your time to behave well, and do nothing that can discover 
 him." John composed himself, and having sent away all his ser- 
 vants upon different errands, he was introduced into the presence of 
 his guest, and was then desired to go and get ready a boat lying 
 near his house, which, though but a small leaky one, they resolved 
 to take, rather than go to the Laird of Mackinnon. John Mackinnon, 
 however, thought otherwise; and, upon his return, told them that 
 his chief and Lady Mackinnon were coming in the laird's boat. 
 Prince Charles said to his trusty Malcolm, " I am sorry for this, but 
 must make the best of it." Mackinnon then walked up from the
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 155 
 
 shore, and did homage to the Wanderer. His lady waited in a cave, 
 to which they all repaired, and were entertained with cold meat and 
 wine.* Mr. Malcolm Macleod being now superseded by the Laird of 
 Mackinnon, desired laave to return, which was granted him, and 
 Prince Charles wrote a short note, which he subscribed James 
 Thompson, informing his friends that he had got away from Sky, 
 and thanking them for their kindness ; and he desired this might be 
 speedily conveyed to young Rasay and Dr. Macleod, that they might 
 not wait longer in expectation of seeing him again. He bade a cor- 
 dial adieu to Malcolm, and insisted on his accepting of a silver stock- 
 buckle, and ten guineas from his purse, though, as Malcolm told me, 
 it did not appear to contain above forty. Malcolm, at first, begged to 
 be excused, saying, that he had a few guineas at his service ; but 
 Prince Charles answered, " You will have need of money. I shall 
 get enough when I come upon the main land." 
 
 The Laird of Mackinnon then conveyed him to the opposite coast 
 of Knoidart. Old Rasay, to whom intelligence had been sent, was 
 crossing at the same time to Sky ; but as they did not know of each 
 other, and each had apprehensions, the two boats kept aloof. 
 
 These are the particulars which I have collected concerning the 
 extraordinary concealment and escapes of Prince Charles, in the 
 Hebrides. He was often in imminent danger. The troops traced him 
 from the Long Island, across Sky, to Portree, but there lost him. 
 
 Here I stop ; having received no further authentic information 
 of his fatigues and perils before he escaped to France. Kings and 
 subjects may both take a lesson of moderation from the melan- 
 choly fate of the House of Stuart ; that kings may not suffer 
 degradation and exile, and subjects may not be harassed by the 
 evils of a disputed succession. 
 
 Let me close the scene on that unfortunate house with the elegant 
 and pathetic reflections of Voltaire, in his " Histoire Generalc :" 
 
 " Que les hommes prives," says that brilliant writer, speaking of Prince Charles, " qui 
 se croyent malheureux, jettent les yeux sur ce prince et ses ancutres."+ 
 
 * To this cave, as we learn from Mr. Chambers's " History of the Rebellion," the old 
 laird used to retire in after years, and busy himself in laying down plans for the re- 
 storation, and working out his theories in detail, after which he would return home 
 extremely well pleased. A characteristic anecdote is related of him : After his re- 
 lease from Tilbury Fort (where he had been confined a twelvemonth) the Attorney- 
 General reminded him of his Majesty's clemency. " Had I the King in my power as 
 I am in his," replied the laird, "I would return him the compliment, by sending him 
 back to his own country." Mackinnon died In 1756, aged seventy-five. ED. 
 
 f ["Let those private individuals who believe themselves unfortunate cast their 
 eyes upon this prince and his ancestors."]
 
 15S JOURNAL OF A TOUtt 
 
 In another place he thus sums up the sad story of the family in 
 general : 
 
 " II n'y a aucuu esemple dans Phistoire d'une maison si longtems infortunee. Le 
 premier des Rois d'Eeosse, qui cut le nora de Jacques, "apres avoir etc dix-huit ans 
 prisonnier en Angleterre, mourut assassine, avec sa femrae, par la main de scs sujets. 
 Jacques II., son fils, fut tue a, vingt-neuf ans en eombattant contre les Anglais. 
 Jacques III. mis en prison par son peuple, fut tue ensuite par les revokes, dans une 
 battaille. Jacques IV. peril dans un combat qu'il perdit. Marie Stuart, sa petite fille, 
 chassee de son trone, fugitive en Angleterre, ayant langui ilix-huit ans en prison, se vie 
 condamnee a mort par des juges Anglais, et eut la tete tranchee. Charles I., petit fils 
 de Marie, Hoi d'Eeosse et d' Angleterre, vendu par les Ecossais, et juge a mort par les 
 Anglais, mourut sur un echaffaud dans la place publique. Jacques, son fils, septieme 
 du nom, et denxieme en Angleterre, fut chasse de ses trois royaumes ; et pour comble 
 de malheur on contesta & son fils sa naissance ; le fils ne tenta de remonter sur le truue 
 de ses peres, que pour faire perir ses aims par des bourreaus ; et nous avons vn 
 Prince Cliarles Edouard, reunissaut en vain les vertus de ses peres, et le courage du 
 Roi Jean Sobieski, son ayeul maternel, executer les exploits et essuyer les malheurs les 
 plus incroyables. Si quelque chose justifie ceux qui croyent une fatalitc a laquelle rieu 
 ne peut se soustraire, c'est cette suite continuelle de malheurs qui a persecute la 
 maisou de Stuart, pendant plus de trois-cent annees."* 
 
 The gallant Malcolm was apprehended in about ten days after 
 they separated, put aboard a ship, and carried prisoner to London. 
 He said the prisoners in general were very ill-treated in their 
 passage ; but there were soldiers on board who lived well, and some- 
 times invited him to share with them : that he had the good fortune 
 not to be thrown into jail, but was confined in the house of a mes- 
 senger of the name of Dick. To his astonishment, only one witness 
 could be found against him, though he had been so openly engaged ; 
 and, therefore, for want of sufficient evidence, he was set at liberty. 
 
 * ["There is no example in history of a house so long unfortunate. The first of the 
 Scottish kings who bore the name of James, after having been eighteen years a pri- 
 soner in England, died by assassination, in presence of his wife, by the hand of his 
 subjects. James II., his son, was killed at twenty-nine years of age, fighting against 
 the English. James III., thrown into prison by his people, was afterwards slain by 
 the insurgents in a battle. James IV. perished in a battle which he lost. Mary Stuart, 
 his grand-daughter, driven from the throne, a fugitive in England, having languished 
 eighteen years in prison, saw herself condemned to death by English judges, and was 
 beheaded. Charles I., grandson of Mary, king of Scotland and England, sold by the 
 Scots and condemned to death by the English, died on a scaffold in the public street. 
 James, his son, seventh of the name and second in England, was driven from his 
 three kingdoms; and, to complete his misfortunes, the legitimacy of his son was 
 disputed. The son tried to re-ascend the throne of his fathers only to make his 
 friends perish by executions. And we have seen Prince Charles Edward uniting in 
 vain the virtues of his fathers and the courage of King John Sobieski, his maternal 
 grandfather performing exploits and enduring calamities the most incredible. If 
 anything justifies those who believe iu a fatality which nothing can escape, it is this 
 continued sequel of misfortunes which persecuted the house of Stuart for more than 
 three hundred years."]
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 157 
 
 Tic added, that he thought himself in such danger that lie would 
 gladly have compounded for banishment. Yet, he said, " he should 
 never be so ready for death as he then was." There is philosophical 
 truth in this. A man will meet death much more firmly at one time 
 than another. The enthusiasm even of a mistaken principle warms 
 the mind and sets it above the fear of death, which in our cooler 
 moments, if we really think of it, cannot but be terrible, or at least 
 very awful. 
 
 Miss Flora Macdonald being then also in London under the 
 protection of Lady Primrose, that lady provided a post-chaise to 
 convey her to Scotland, and desired she might choose any friend she 
 pleased to accompany her. She chose Malcolm. " So," said he, with 
 a triumphant air, " I went to London to be hanged, and returned in a 
 post-chaise with Miss Flora Macdonald."* 
 
 Mr. Macleod of Muiravenside, whom we saw at Ilasay, assured us 
 that Prince Charles was in London in 1759, and that there was then 
 a plan in agitation for restoring his family.! Dr. Johnson could 
 scarcely credit his story, and said there could be no probable plan at 
 that time. Such an attempt could not have succeeded, unless the 
 King of Prussia had stopped the anny in Germany ; for both the 
 army and the fleet would, even without orders, have fought for the 
 king, to whom they had engaged themselves. 
 
 Having related so many particulars concerning the grandson of 
 the unfortunate King James II.; having given due praise to fidelity 
 
 * Lady Primrose promoted a subscription for Flora Macdonald, which Lord Mahon 
 states amounted to 1,500{. Mr. Croker publishes a letter, written by Flora, and dated 
 from Kingsburgh, April 23rd, 1751, addressed to some banker or merchant in London, 
 in which she applies for a sum of C27/. lodged for her behoof by Lucly Primrose, with 
 an intimation that her ladyship had it in view to add more. This was probably part 
 of the subscription alluded to by Lord Mahon. From delicacy to the Macleods, Flora 
 Macdonald seems to have said nothing to Mr. Boswell of her apprehension and im- 
 prisonment. In her narrative to Home she mentions that " Captain Macleod of 
 Yalisker (now Colonel Maoleod) who commanded the militia in Skye, ordered a party 
 to go to Armadale and apprehend Miss Macdonald. They took her prisoner and gave 
 her up to a body of fusiliers, who delivered her to General Campbell, at that time on, 
 board Captain Ferguson's ship, which lay between Sconser and Rasay. She was on 
 board this ship twenty-two days." ED. 
 
 + Dr. King, the Jacobite principal of St. Mary's Hall, Oxford, met the Prince at 
 Lady 1'ritn rose's, and received him in his own house in September, 1760. On this 
 occasion Charles remained five days in London. He appears to have made a second 
 visit to England in 1753, as stated by David Hume, and corroborated by the Lord 
 Marischal and Lord Holderness, then Secretary of State. In this year, Dr. Archibald 
 Cameron also returned, and, being apprehended, was tried and executed as a traitor. 
 The Government was generally condemned for this vindictive severity ; but it was 
 probably done to intimidate the Jacobite party, and stifle some plot which had led 
 rhurlt's to London. The Prince is reported to have been again in England in 1760. 
 and to have witnessed the coronation of George III., but there is no good authority 
 for the statement. ED.
 
 158 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 and generous attachment, \vhich, however erroneous the judgment 
 may be, are honourable for the heart ; I must do the Highlanders the 
 justice to attest, that I found everywhere among them a high opinion 
 of the virtue of the king now upon the throne, and an honest disposi- 
 tion to be faithful subjects to his majesty, whose family has possessed 
 the sovereignty of this country so long, that a change, even for the 
 abdicated family, would now hurt the best feelings of all his subjects. 
 
 The abstract point of right would involve us in a discussion of 
 remote and perplexed questions; and, after all, we should have no 
 clear principle of decision. That establishment which, from political 
 necessity, took place in 1688, by a breach in the succession of our 
 kings, and which, whatever benefits may have accrued from it, 
 certainly gave a shock to our monarchy, the able and constitutional 
 Blackstone wisely rests on the solid footing of authority : " Our 
 ancestors having most indisputably a competent jurisdiction to decide 
 this great and important question, and having, in fact, decided it, it 
 is now become our duty, at this distance of time, to acquiesce in their 
 determination."* 
 
 Mr. Paley, the present Archdeacon of Carlisle, in his " Principles 
 of Moral and Political Philosophy," having, with much clearness of 
 argument, shown the duty of submission to civil government to be 
 founded, neither on an indefeasible jus divinum nor on compact, but 
 on expediency, lays down this rational position : " Irregularity in 
 the first foundation of a state, or subsequent violence, fraud, or in- 
 justice, in getting possession of the supreme power, are not sufficient 
 reasons for resistance after the government is once peaceably settled. 
 No subject of the British empire conceives himself engaged to vin- 
 dicate the justice of the Norman claim or conquest, or apprehends 
 that his duty in any manner depends upon that controversy.* So, 
 likewise, if the house of Lancaster, or even the posterity of Cromwell, 
 had been at this day seated upon the throne of England, we should 
 have been as little concerned to inquire how the founder of the family 
 came there." f 
 
 * Commentaries on the Laws of England, Book I. chap. 3. BOSWELL. 
 
 t B. VI. chap, iii. Since I have quoted Mr. Archdeacon Paley upon one subject, I 
 cannot but transcribe from his excellent,work a distinguished passage in support of 
 the Christian Revelation. After showing, in decent but strong terms, the unfairness 
 of the indirect attempts of modern infidels to unsettle and perplex religious principles., 
 and particularly the irony, banter, and sneer of one whom he politely calls, "an 
 eloquent historian," [Gibbon] the archdeacon thus expresses himself: 
 
 " Seriousness is not constraint of thought, nor levity of freedom. Every mind which 
 wishes the advancement of truth and knowledge, in the most important of all human 
 researches, must abhor this licentiousness, as violating no less the laws of reasoning 
 than the rights of decency. There is but one description of men to whose principles 
 it ought to be tolerable. I mean that class of reasoners who can see little in Chris-
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 15 
 
 In conformity with this doctrine, I myself, though fully persuaded 
 that the house of Stuart had originally no right to the crown of 
 Scotland, for that Baliol, and not Bruce, was the lawful heir, should 
 yet have thought it very culpable to have rebelled, on that account, 
 against Charles I., or even a prince of that house much nearer the 
 time, in order to assert the claim of the posterity of Baliol. 
 
 However convinced I am of the justice of that principle which 
 holds allegiance and protection to he reciprocal, I do, however, 
 acknowledge, that I am not satisfied with the cold sentiment which 
 would confine the exertions of the subject within the strict line of 
 duty. I would have every breast animated with the fervour of 
 loyalty with that generous attachment which delights in doing 
 somewhat more than is required, and makes " service perfect 
 freedom." And, therefore, as our most gracious sovereign, on his 
 accession to the throne, gloried in being born a Briton,* so, in my 
 
 tianity even supposing it to be true. To such adversaries we address this reflection : 
 Had Jesus Christ delivered no other declaration than the following ' The hour is 
 coming in the which all that are in the graves shall hear his voice, and shall come 
 forth they that have done well unto the resurrection of life, and they that have done 
 evil unto the resurrection of damnation,' he had pronounced a message of inestimable 
 importance, and well worthy of that splendid apparatus of prophecy and miracles with 
 which his mission was introduced and attested a message in which the wisest of 
 mankind would rejoice to find an answer to their doubts, and rest to their inquiries. 
 It is idle to say that a future state had been discovered already. It had been dis- 
 covered as the Copernican system was it was one guess amongst many. He alone 
 discovers who proves ; and no man can prove this point but the teacher who testifies 
 by miracles that his doctrine comes from God." Book V. chap. ix. 
 
 If infidelity be disingenuously dispersed in every shape that is likely to allure, sur- 
 prise, or beguile the imagination in a fable, a tale, a novel, a poem in books of 
 travels, of philosophy, of natural history as Mr. Paley has well observed I hope it is 
 fair in me thus to meet such poison with an unexpected antidote, which I cannot 
 doubt will be found powerful. BOSWELL. 
 
 * George III., in his first speech to parliament, November 18, 1760, said " Born 
 and educated in this country, I glory in the name of Briton." This use of the 
 appellation Jiritun instead of Englishman was attributed to Lord Bute and the 
 Scotch influence supposed to preponderate in the court of the young king. Juntas 
 makes it one of the points of attack against the sovereign: "When you affectedly 
 renounced the name of Englishman, believe me, sir, you were persuaded to pay a 
 very ill-judged compliment to one part of your subjects at the expense of another." 
 We find Lord Bute using the name of Briton in one of his letters to Home, the author 
 of " Douglas," dated from Venice, October 5, 1770 : " I hope I may get better, if per- 
 mitted to enjoy that peace, that liberty, which is the birthright of the meanest 
 Briton, but which has been long denied to me." (Mackenzie's " Life of John Home.") 
 The Bute influence (" a power behind the throne greater than the throne itself") was 
 much exaggerated ; but it had the effect of perpetuating and increasing the prejudice 
 against Scotland, which Johnson, Junins, and others entertained. Lord Chatham dis- 
 claimed it. In his celebrated speech, when boasting of having called into the service 
 of the State a hardy and intrepid race of men from the mountains ef the north, he 
 added, " It waa not the country I objected to, but the man of that country (Lord Bute), 
 because he wanted wisdom, and held principles incompatible with freedom." ED.
 
 rCO JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 more private sphere, Ego me mine denique natum gratulor. I am 
 happy that a disputed succession no longer distracts our minds, and 
 that a monarchy established by law is now so sanctioned by time, 
 that we can fully indulge those feelings of loyalty which I am 
 ambitious to excite. They are feelings which have ever actuated the 
 inhabitants of the Highlands and the Hebrides. The plant of loyalty 
 is there in full vigour, and the Brunswick graft now flourishes like a 
 native shoot. To that spirited race of people I may with propriety 
 apply the elegant lines of a modern poet, on the " facile temper of 
 the beauteous sex :" 
 
 " Like birds new caught, who flatter for a time, 
 And struggle with captivity in vain ; 
 But by and by they rest, they smooth their plumes 
 And to new masters sing their former notes." * 
 
 Surely such notes are much better than the querulous growlings 
 of suspicious Whigs and discontented Republicans. 
 
 Kingsburgh conducted us in his boat across one of the lochs, as 
 they call them, or arms of the sea, which flow in upon all the coasts 
 of Sky, to a mile beyond a place called Grishinish. Our horses had 
 been sent round by land to meet us. By this sail we saved eight 
 miles of bad riding, f Dr. Johnson said: " When we take into com- 
 putation Avhat we have saved, and what we have gained, by this 
 agreeable sail, it is a great deal." He observed : " It is very 
 disagreeable riding in Sky. The way is so narrow, one only at a 
 time can travel, so it is quite unsocial ; and you cannot indulge in 
 meditation by yourself, because you must be always attending to the 
 steps which your horse takes." This was a just and clear description 
 of its inconveniencies. 
 
 The topic of emigration being again introduced, Dr. Johnson said, 
 that " a rapacious chief would make a wilderness of his estate." Mr. 
 Donald Macqueen told us, that the oppression which then made so 
 much noise was owing to landlords listening to bad advice in the 
 letting of their lands, that interested and designing people flattered 
 them with golden dreams of much higher rents than could reasonably 
 be paid, and that some of the gentlemen tacksmen, or upper tenants, 
 were themselves in part the occasion of the mischief, by over-rating 
 the farms of others.1 That many of the tacksmen, rather than 
 
 * " Agis," a tragedy, by John Home. 
 
 t The distance actually saved by the sail from Kingsburgh to the head of Lech Gris- 
 hornish is abont seventeen miles of riding. ED. 
 
 } Pennant states that a large farm in Skye, which in 1750 used to let for 161. per 
 annum, had before 1772 been raised to 50/. ; and that the whole rental of the island,
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 161 
 
 comply with exorbitant demands, had gone off to America and im- 
 poverished the country, by draining it of its wealth, and that their 
 places were filled by a number of poor people who had lived under 
 them, properly speaking, as servants, paid by a certain proportion of 
 the produce of the lands, though called sub-tenants. I observed, that 
 if the men of substance were once banished from a Highland estate, 
 it might probably be greatly reduced in its value ; for one bad year 
 might ruin a set of poor tenants, and men of any property would not 
 settle in such a country, unless from the temptation of getting land 
 extremely cheap ; for an inhabitant of any good county in Britain 
 had better go to America than to the Highlands or Hebrides. Here, 
 therefore, was a consideration that ought to induce a chief to act a 
 more liberal part, from a mere motive of interest, independent of 
 the lofty and honourable principle of keeping a clan together, to be in 
 readiness to serve his king. I added, that I could not help thinking 
 a little arbitrary power in the sovereign, to control the bad policy and 
 greediness of the chiefs, might sometimes be of service. In France, a 
 chief would not be permitted to force a number of the king's subjects 
 out of the country. Dr. Johnson concurred with me, observing, that 
 " were an oppressive chieftain a subject of the French king, he would 
 probably be admonished by a letter." \_Lettre de cachet.~\ 
 
 During our sail, Dr. Johnson asked about the use of the dirk, with 
 
 which in 1750 was only 3,5001., had " by an unnatural force " been doubled or trebled. 
 Even then, however, the greatest rent in Skye was only 80J., and the medium rate 307. 
 or -10?. The new rents do not appear to have been exorbitant, but the rise was too 
 sudden, and the people unprepared to meet it. The country exhibited the remains of 
 feudalism without its chivalry a people unused to steady industry, and chiefs without 
 power or riches. Cattle was the principal trade of the island ; about 4000 being sold 
 annually, at from 21. to 31. each. About 250 horses -were sold. No sheep were kept but 
 for home consumption, or for the wool to make clothes. The population of Skye in 
 1755 was 11,252; it is now nearly double, and is thus classed: Proprietors, clergy, 
 schoolmasters, professional men, &c., 77; shopkeepers and tradesmen, 380 ; farmers 
 or tacksmen of more than thirty arable acres, 41 ; small tenants of less than thirty, 
 and not less than eight arable acres, 184 ; crofters of less than eight arable acres, 
 1,888 ; cottars with no land and no regular trade, 1,765 total of individuals in Skye, in 
 1851, 22,532. The rental of the island is now nominally about 24,000?. ; but the bulk 
 of the people being small crofters or cottars, the potato-blight cut off their chief means 
 of subsistence, and the arrears of rent are considerable. " Kelp, herring fishing, 
 potatoes, and cattle, the chief sources of employment and subsistence, successively 
 failed or declined, while the population continued to increase." " Sir John M'Neill's 
 Report." The great bar to the extension of arable cultivation in Skye and the other 
 islands is the wet and stormy climate. The corn-market is now open to the competition 
 of all the world, and the Hebridean farmer, retarded at every stage of his operations 
 by heavy rains and stormy winds, would have no chance as a corn-grower with the 
 genial nations of the south. Still it is believed that, by a judicious expenditure 
 under the Drainage Act, the lands now in the possession of the small tenants might 
 be made capable of producing a third or fourth more than they produce at present, 
 and thus tend to avert those periodical famines which have so often scourged the 
 Hebrides. ED.
 
 162 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 which he imagined the Highlanders cut their meat. He was told, 
 they had a knife and fork besides, to eat with. He asked, how did 
 the women do ? and was answered, some of them had a knife and 
 fork too ; but in general the men, when they had cut their meat, 
 handed their knives and forks to the women, and they themselves ate 
 with their fingers. The old tutor of Macdonald always ate fish with 
 his fingers, alleging that a knife and fork gave it a bad taste. I took 
 the liberty to observe to Dr. Johnson, that he did so. "Yes," said he, 
 " but it is because I am short-sighted, and afraid of bones, for which 
 reason I am not fond of eating many kinds of fish, because I must 
 use my fingers." 
 
 Dr. Macpherson's " Dissertations on Scottish Antiquities," which he 
 had looked at when at Comchatachin, being mentioned, he remarked, 
 that " you might read half an hour, and ask yourself what you had 
 been reading : there were so many words to so little matter, that 
 there was no getting through the book." 
 
 As soon as we reached the shore, we took leave of Kingsburgh, 
 and mounted our horses. We passed through a wild moor, in many 
 places so soft that we were obliged to walk, which was very fatiguing 
 to Dr. Johnson. Once he had advanced on horseback to a very bad 
 step. There was a steep declivity on his left, to which he was 
 so near, that there was not room for him to dismount in the usual 
 way. He tried to alight on the other side, as if he had been a young 
 buck indeed, but in the attempt he fell at his length upon the ground, 
 from which, however, he got up immediately, without being hurt. 
 During this dreary ride, we were sometimes relieved by a view 
 of branches of the sea that universal medium of connection amongst 
 mankind. A guide, who had been sent with us from Kingsburgh, 
 explored the way (much in the same manner as, I suppose, is pursued 
 in the wilds of America), by observing certain marks, known only to 
 the inhabitants. "VVe arrived at Duiivegan late in the afternoon. 
 The great size of the castle, which is partly old and partly new, and 
 is built upon a rock close to the sea, while the land around it presents 
 nothing but wild, moorish, hilly, and craggy appearances, gave a 
 rude magnificence to the scene.* Having dismounted, we ascended 
 
 * The old storm-beaten castle of Dunvegan and its wild shore have been rendered 
 classic ground by Johnson and Sir Walter Scott. The first rude tower which consti- 
 tuted the residence of the chief is said to date back as far as the ninth century. A 
 second and higher tower was built by AlasteirMacleod, called Crotach, or the Hump- 
 backed, who died in 1428. llorie More, who was knighted by James VI., connected 
 the towers by a low range of buildings, and almost every succeeding chief added 
 something to the massive and venerable pile. The late and present Macleod were 
 large contributors, adding comfort and elegance to the strength and picturesqueness 
 which the castle always displayed. Its site was probably determined at first by the
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 IC3 
 
 a. flight of steps, which was made by the late Macleod, for the 
 accommodation of persons coming to him by land, there formerly 
 being, for security, no other access to the castle but from the sea ; so 
 that visitors who came by the land were under the necessity of 
 getting into a boat, and sailed round to the only place where it could 
 be approached. We were introduced into a stately dining-room, and 
 received by Lady Macleod, mother of the laird, who, with his friend 
 Talisker, having been detained on the road, did not arrive till some 
 time after us. 
 
 We found the lady of the house a very polite and sensible woman, 
 who had lived for some time in London, and had there been in Dr. 
 
 ----- 
 
 DCXVEIilN C1STI.E. 
 
 Johnson's company. After we had dined, we repaired to the draw- 
 ing-room, where some of the young ladies of the family, with their 
 mother, were at tea. This room had formerly been the bed-chamber 
 of Sir Roderick Macleod, one of the old lairds ; and he chose it be- 
 cause behind it there was a considerable cascade, the sound of which 
 disposed him to sleep. Above his bed was this inscription : " Sir 
 Jlorie Macleod of Dun vegan, Knight. GOD send good rest !" Rorie 
 is the contraction of Roderick. He was called Rorie More, that is, 
 great Rorie, not from his size, but from his spirit. Our entertainment 
 here was in so elegant a style, and reminded my fellow-traveller so 
 
 harbour in front, aad by a fine spring of water which rises on the top of the rock. 
 ED. 
 
 L2
 
 164 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 much of England, that he became quite joyous. He laughed, and 
 said : " Boswell, we came in at the wrong end of this island." " Sir," 
 said I, "it was best to keep this for the last." He answered, "I 
 would have it both first and last." 
 
 TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 14. 
 
 Dr. Johnson said in the morning, " Is not this a fine lady ?' 
 There was not a word now of his impatience to be-in civilised life;" 
 though indeed I should beg pardon he found it here. We had slept 
 well, and lain long. After breakfast, we surveyed the castle and the 
 garden. Mr. Bethune, the parish minister, Magnus Macleod, of 
 Claggan, brother to Talisker, and Macleod, of Bay, two substantial 
 gentlemen of the clan, dined with us. We had admirable venison, 
 generous wine in a word, all that a good table has. This was really 
 the hall of a Chief. Lady Macleod had been much obliged to my 
 father, who had settled by arbitration a variety of perplexed claims 
 between her and her relation, the Laird of Brodie, which she now 
 repaid by particular attention to me.* Macleod started the subject of 
 making women do penance in the church for fornication. JOHNSON. 
 " It is right, sir. Infamy is attached to the crime by universal opinion 
 as soon as it is known. I would not be the man who would discover 
 it, if I alone knew it, for a woman may reform ; nor would I commend 
 a person who divulges a woman's first offence ; but being once 
 divulged, it ought to be infamous. Consider of what importance to 
 society the chastity of women is. Upon that all the property in the 
 world depends. We hang a thief .for stealing a sheep ; but the un- 
 chastity of a woman transfers sheep, and farm, and all, from the right 
 owner. I have much more reverence for a common prostitute than 
 for a woman who conceals her guilt. The prostitute is known ; she 
 cannot deceive ; she cannot bring a strumpet into the arms of an 
 honest man, without his knowledge." BOSWELL. " There is, how- 
 ever, a great difference between the licentiousness of a single woman 
 and that of a married woman." JOHNSON. " Yes, sir ; there is a 
 great difference between stealing a shilling and stealing a thousand 
 pounds ; between simply taking a man's purse, and murdering him 
 first, and then taking it. But when one begins to be \icious, it is 
 easy to go on. Where single women are licentious, you rarely find 
 faithful married women." BOSWELL. " And yet we are told that in 
 some nations in India, the distinction is strictly observed." JOHNSON. 
 " Nay, don't give us India. That puts me in mind of Montesquieu, 
 
 * Mrs. Emilia Macleod, widow of John Macleod, of Macleod, was only daughter of 
 Alexander Brodie, of Brodie, Lord Lyon of Scotland. She died at Bath in 1802. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 165' 
 
 who is really a fellow of genius too in many respects ; whenever he 
 wants to support a strange opinion, he -quotes you the practice of 
 Japan, or of some other distant country, of which he knows nothing. 
 To support polygamy, lie tells you of the island of Formosa, where 
 there are ten women born for one man. He had but to suppose 
 another island, where there are ten men born for one woman, and so 
 make a marriage between them." * 
 
 At supper, Lady Macleod mentioned Dr. Cadogan's book on the 
 gout. JOHNSON. " It is a good book in general, but a foolish one in 
 particulars. It is good in general, as recommending temperance and 
 exercise, and cheerfulness. In that respect it is only Dr. Cheyne's 
 book, told in a new way ; and there should come out such a book 
 every thirty years, dressed in the mode of the times. It is foolish in 
 maintaining that the gout is not hereditary, and that one fit of it, 
 when gone, is like a fever when gone." Lady Macleod objected 
 that the author does not practise what he teaches. f JOHNSON. " I 
 cannot help that, madam ; that does not make his book the worse. 
 People are influenced more by what a man says, if his practice is 
 suitable to it, because they are blockheads. The more intellectual 
 people are, the readier will they attend to what a man tells them : 
 if it is just, they will follow it, be his practice what it will. No 
 man practises so well as he writes. I have, all my life long, been 
 lying till noon ; yet I tell all young men, and tell them with great 
 sincerity, that nobody who does not rise early will ever do any good. 
 Only consider ! You read a book ; you are convinced by it ; you do 
 not know the author. Suppose you afterwards know him, and find 
 that he does not practise what he teaches : are you to give up your 
 former conviction ? At this rate you would be kept in a state of 
 
 * What my friend treated as so wild a supposition has actually happened in the 
 western islands of Scotland, if we may believe Martin, who tells it of the islands of 
 Col and Tyr-yi, and says that it is proved by the parish registers. BOSWELL. 
 Martin says the inhabitants of Col always feed on oats, and those of Tir-yi on barley. 
 He then adds, " The Isle of Col produces more boys than girls, and the Isle of Tyr-yi 
 more girls than boys ; as if Nature intended both these isles for mutual alliances, 
 without being at the trouble of going to the adjacent isles or continent to be matched. 
 The parish book, in which the number of the baptised is to be seen, confirms th'e ob- 
 servation." This curious parish-book no longer exists, and we need hardly say the 
 modern registers give no countenance to the supposition. In 1755 the population of 
 these islands was 2,702, it is now 4,815 ; and in 1843 their annual value was returned 
 at 4.473Z. 6s. 2d. ED.] 
 
 t This was a general reflection against Dr. Cadogon.when his very popular book 
 was first published. It was said that whatever precepts he might give to others, he 
 himself indulged freely in the bottle. But I have since had the pleasure of becoming 
 acquainted with him, and, if his own testimony may be believed (and I have never 
 heard it impeached), his course of life has been conformable to his doctrine. 
 BOSWELL.
 
 J65 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 equilibrium, when reading every book, till you knew how the author 
 practised." " But," said Lady Maclcod, " you would think better of 
 Dr. Cadogan, if he acted according to his principles." JOHNSON. 
 " Why, madam, to be sure, a man who acts in the face of light, is- 
 worse than a man who does not know so much ; yet I think no man 
 should be worse thought of for publishing good principles. There is 
 something noble in publishing truth, though it condemns one's self." 
 I expressed some surprise at Cadogan's recommending good humour, 
 as if it were quite in our own power to attain it. JOHNSON. " Why, 
 sir, a man grows better humoured as he grows older : he improves 
 by experience. When young, he thinks himself of great consequence, 
 and everything of importance. As he advances in life, he learns to 
 think himself of no consequence, and little things of little importance ; 
 and so he becomes more patient and better pleased. All good humour 
 and complaisance are acquired. Naturally a child seizes directly what 
 it sees, and thinks of pleasing itself only. By degrees, it is taught to- 
 please others, and to prefer others ; and that this will ultimately pro- 
 duce the greatest happiness. If a man is not convinced of that, ho 
 never will practise it. Common language speaks the truth as to this r 
 we say, a person is well bred. As it is said that all material motion 
 is primarily in a right line, and is never per circuitum, never in 
 another form, unless by some particular cause ; so it may be said 
 intellectual motion is." Lady Macleod asked, if no man was naturally 
 good ? JOHNSON. " No, madam, no more than a wolf." BOSWELL. 
 " Nor no woman, sir ?" JOHNSON. " No, sir." Lady Macleod started 
 at this, saying, in a low voice, " This is worse than Swift." 
 
 Macleod of Ulinish had come in the afternoon. We were a jovial 
 company at supper. The laird, surrounded by so many of his clan r 
 was to me a pleasing sight. They listened with wonder and pleasure, 
 while Dr. Johnson harangued. I am vexed that I cannot take down 
 his full strain of eloquence. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15. 
 
 . The gentlemen of the clan went away early in the morning to the- 
 harbour of Lochbracadale, to take leave of some of their friends who 
 were going to America. It was a very wet day. We looked at Rorio 
 More's horn, which is a large cow's horn, with the mouth of it orna- 
 mented with silver curiously carved. It holds rather more than a 
 bottle and a half.* Every Laird of Macleod, it is said, must, as a 
 
 * This famous horn, which Burns alludes to in his Bacchanalian poem of " The 
 "Whistle," holds nearly as much as three ordinary bottles. It is a common ox's horn, 
 and has no other ornament than the silver rim. The ceremony of quaffing claret from 
 Korie More's horn at the inauguration of each successive Chief of Macleod is tili
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 1C7 
 
 proof of his manhood, drink it off full of claret, without laying it 
 down. From Roric More many of the branches of the family arc 
 descended ; in particular, the Talisker branch ; so that his name is 
 much talked of. We also saw his bow, which hardly any man now 
 can bend, and his (/lay more [claymore], which was wielded with both 
 hands, and is of a prodigious size. We saw here some old pieces of 
 iron armour, immensely heavy. The broadsword now used, though 
 called the glaymore (i. e. the great sicord), is much smaller than that 
 used in Rorie More's time. There is hardly a target now to be found 
 in the Highlands. After the disarming act, they made them serve as 
 covers to their butter-milk barrels ; a kind of change, like beating 
 spears into pruning-hooks. 
 
 Sir George Mackenzie's works (the folio edition) happened to lie 
 in a window in the dining-room. I asked Dr. Johnson to look at the 
 
 continued'; but an artificial bottom is inserted on these occasions in order to reduce 
 the libation to a moderate draught. Sir Rorie would have spurned this effeminacy, 
 and no such expedient, we may be sure, was adopted 
 when the old chief entertained the bard of Clanrcnald, 
 Nial Mor Mac Vurich, who has chanted his praises iu 
 Gaelic verse. " The six nights I remained at Dunve- 
 gan," he says, "it was not a show of hospitality I met 
 with there, but a plentiful feast in thy fair hall among 
 thy numerous host of heroes, amidst the sound of harps, 
 overflowing cups," &c. The Privy Council attempted to 
 stint Rorie More in his wine. In 1016, among other 
 provisions to reform the islands, it was enacted that the 
 chiefs were not to use in their henses more than the 
 following quantities of wine respectively viz., Maclean 
 of Duart and Sir Iterie Macleod, four tun each ; Clnn- 
 ronald three tun ; and Coll, Lochbuy, and Mackinnon, 
 one tun each. Boswell does not mention another curious 
 cup at Duuvegan, formed of black oak richly carved 
 and mounted, and inscribed in Saxon black-letter chn- 
 ructers. Sir Walter Scott has described this ancient 
 cup, or chalice, in his notes to the " Lord of the Isles," 
 and an engraving of it is given iu Mr. Wilson's inte- 
 resting work on Scottish Archaeology (1861). Sir Walt* r, 
 it appears, had misread the inscription, for instead of 
 dating back so far as the tenth century, the cnp was made 
 ia the sixteenth. A fairy flag, the palladium of the Macleods, is also preserved at Dun- 
 vegan. It is formed of yellow silk, now much tattered and decayed, and is said to have 
 been taken by a Macleod from a Saracen chief during the Crusades. This miraculous 
 banner was only to be displayed on three great occasions when the clan was in im- 
 mineut peril in battle, when the heir of the family was at the point of death, and when 
 the Macleods were on the verge of extinction, in which emergency tho clan would be 
 saved by unfurling the flag, but an invisible being would appear and carry off standard 
 and standard-bearer, never more to be seen ! Pennant says a family in the island had 
 the dangerous office of standard-bearer, and held by it three lands in Bracadale. 
 The relic is most probably a banner of some order of the Knights Templars. The 
 superstition connected with it may, as Pennant suggests, have been derived from 
 the Norwegian ancestry of the Macleods, and might be of use to animate the clan. 
 ED. 
 
 GUI' AT DCNVEGAM.
 
 168 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Characteres Advocatorum. He allowed him power of mind, and that 
 he understood very well what he tells ; but said that there was too 
 much declamation, and that the Latin was not correct. He found 
 fault with appropinqudbant in the character of Gilmour. I tried him 
 with the opposition between gloria and palma, in the comparison be- 
 tween Gilmour and Nisbet, which Lord Hailes, in his catalogue of the 
 Lords of Session, thinks difficult to be understood. The words are, 
 " penes ilium gloria, penes hunc palma" In a short account of the 
 Kirk of Scotland, which I published some years ago, I applied these 
 words to the two contending parties, and explained them thus : " The 
 popular party has most eloquence ; Dr. Robertson's party most influ- 
 ence." I was very desirous to hear Dr. Johnson's explication. 
 JOHNSON. " I see no difficulty. Gilmour was admired for his parts ; 
 Nisbet carried his cause by his skill in law. Palma is victory." I 
 observed, that the character of Nicholson in this book resembled that 
 of Burke ; for it is said, in one place, " in omnes lusos et jocos se scepe 
 resolvebat ; " * and, in another, " sed acceptris more e conspectu ali- 
 quando astantium sublimi se protrahens volatu, in prcedam iniro 
 impetu descen debat" f JOHNSON. "No, sir; I never heard Burke 
 make a good joke in my life." BOSWELL. " But, sir, you will allow 
 he is a hawk." Dr. Johnson, thinking that I meant this of his joking, 
 said, " No, sir, he is not the hawk there. He is the beetle in the 
 mire." I still adhered to my metaphor : " But he soars as the hawk." 
 JOHNSON. "Yes, sir; but he catches nothing." Macleod asked, 
 what is the particular excellence of Burke's eloquence ? JOHNSON. 
 " Copiousness an<i fertility of allusion ; a power of diversifying his 
 matter, by placing it in various relations. Burke has great informa- 
 tion, and great command of language ; though, in my opinion, it has 
 not in every respect the highest elegance." BOSWELL. " Do you 
 think, sir, that Burke has read Cicero much ?" JOHNSON. " I don't 
 believe it, sir. Burke has great knowledge, great fluency of words, 
 and great promptness of ideas, so that he can speak with great illus- 
 tration on any subject that comes before him. He is neither like 
 Cicero, nor like Demosthenes, nor like any one else, but speaks as 
 well as he can." 
 
 In the 65th page of the first volume of Sir George Mackenzie, Dr. 
 Johnson pointed out a paragraph beginning with Aristotle, and told 
 me there was an error in the text, which he bade me try to discover. 
 I was lucky enough to hit it at once. As the passage is printed, it is 
 said that the devil answers even in engines. I corrected it to ever in 
 
 * He often indulged himself in every species of pleasantry and wit. BOSWELL. 
 + But, like the hawk, having soared with a lofty flight to a height which the eye 
 could not reach, he was wont to swoop upon his quarry with wonderful rapidity. IBID.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 169 
 
 eenigmas. " Sir," said he, " you are a good critic. This would have 
 been a great thing to do in the text of an ancient author." 
 
 THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 16. 
 
 Last night much care was taken of Dr. Johnson, who was still 
 distressed by his cold. He had hitherto most strangely slept without 
 a night-cap. Miss Macleod made him a large flannel one, and he was 
 prevailed with to drink a little brandy when he was going to bed. 
 He has great virtue in not drinking wine or any fermented liquor, 
 because, as he acknowledged to us, he could not do it in moderation. 
 Lady Macleod would hardly believe him, and said, " I am sure, sir, 
 you would not carry it too far." JOHNSON. "Nay, madam, it car- 
 ried me. I took the opportunity of a long illness to leave it off. It 
 was then prescribed to me not to drink wine ; and having broken off 
 the habit, I have never returned to it." 
 
 In the argument on Tuesday night about natural goodness, Dr. 
 Johnson denied that any child was better than another, but by dif- 
 ference of instruction ; though, in consequence of greater attention 
 being paid to instruction by one child than another, and of a variety 
 of imperceptible causes, such as instruction being counteracted by 
 servants, a notion was conceived, that of two children, equally well 
 educated, one was naturally much worse than another. He owned, 
 this morning, that one might have a greater aptitude to learn than 
 another, and that we inherit dispositions from our parents. " I in- 
 herited," said he, " a vile melancholy from my father, which has 
 made me mad all my life, at least not sober." Lady Macleod won- 
 dered he should tell this. " Madam," said I, " he knows that with 
 that madness he is superior to other men." 
 
 I have often been astonished with what exactness and perspicuity 
 he will explain the process of any art. He this morning explained 
 to us all the operation of coining, and at night all the operation of 
 brewing, so very clearly, that Mr. Macqueen said, when he heard the 
 first, he thought he had been bred in the mint ; when he heard the 
 second, that he had been bred a brewer. 
 
 I was elated by the thought of having been able to entice such a 
 man to this remote part of the world. A ludicrous, yet just image 
 presented itself to my mind, which I expressed to the company. I 
 compared myself to a dog who has got hold of a large piece of meat, 
 and runs away with it to a corner, where he may devour it in peace, 
 without any fear of others taking it from him. " In London, Rey- 
 nolds, Beauclerk, and all of them, are contending who shall enjoy 
 Dr. Johnson's conversation. We are feasting upon it undisturbed at 
 Dunvegan."
 
 170 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 It was still a storm of wind and rain. Dr. Johnson, however, 
 walked out with Macleod, and saw Rorie More's cascade in full per- 
 fection. Colonel Macleod, instead of being all life and gaiety, as I 
 have seen him, was at present grave, and somewhat depressed by his 
 anxious concern about Macleod's affairs, and by finding some gentle- 
 men of the clan by no means disposed to act a generous or affectionate 
 part to their Chief in his distress, but bargaining with him as with 
 a stranger. However, he was agreeable and polite, and Dr. Johnson 
 said, he was a very pleasing man. My fellow-traveller and I talked 
 of going to Sweden ; and while we were settling our plan, I expressed 
 a pleasure in the prospect of seeing the king. JOHNSON. " I doubt, 
 sir, if he would speak to us." Colonel Macleod said, " I am sure Mr. 
 Boswell would speak to him ;" but, seeing me a little disconcerted by 
 liis remark, he politely added, " and with great propriety." Here let 
 me offer a short defence of that propensity in my disposition to which 
 this gentleman alluded. It has procured me much happiness. I hope 
 it does not deserve so hard a name as either forwardness or impu- 
 dence. If I know myself, it is nothing more than an eagerness to 
 share the society of men distinguished either by their rank or their 
 talents, and a diligence to attain what I desire. If a man is praised 
 for seeking knowledge, though mountains and seas are in his way, 
 may he not be pardoned, whose ardour, in the pursuit of the same 
 object, leads him to encounter difficulties as great, though of a different 
 kind? 
 
 After the ladies were gone from table, we talked of the High- 
 landers not having sheets ; and this led us to consider the advantage 
 of wearing linen. JOHNSON. " All animal substances are less cleanly 
 than vegetable. Wool, of which flannel is made, is an animal sub- 
 stance; flannel therefore is not so cleanly as linen. I remember I 
 used to think tar dirty ; but when I knew it to be only a preparation 
 of the juice of the pine, I thought so no longer. It is not disagreeable 
 to have the gum that oozes from a plum-tree upon your fingers, be- 
 cause it is vegetable ; but if you have any candle-grease, any tallow 
 upon your fingers, you are uneasy till you rub it off. I have often 
 thought, that if I kept a seraglio, the ladies should all wear linen 
 gowns, or cotton, I mean stuffs made of vegetable substances. I 
 would have no silk ; you cannot tell when it is clean ; it will be very 
 nasty before it is perceived to be so. Linen detects its own dirtiness." 
 
 To hear the grave Dr. Samuel Johnson, " that majestic teacher of 
 moral and religious wisdom," while sitting solemn in an arm-chair 
 in the Isle of Sky, talk, ex cathedra, of his keeping a seraglio, and 
 acknowledge that the supposition had often been in his thoughts, 
 struck me so forcibly with ludicrous contrast, that I could not but
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 171 
 
 laugh immoderately. He was too proud to submit, even for a moment, 
 to be the object of ridicule, and instantly retaliated with such keen 
 sarcastic wit, and such a variety of degrading images, of every one of 
 which I was the object, that though I can bear such attacks as well 
 as most men, I yet found myself so much the sport of all the com- 
 pany, that I would gladly expunge from my mind every trace of this- 
 severe retort. 
 
 Talking of our friend Langton's house in Lincolnshire, he said, 
 " The old house of the family was burnt. A temporary building was 
 erected in its room ; and to this day they have been always adding as 
 the family increased. It is like a shirt made for a man when he was 
 a child, and enlarged always as he grows older." 
 
 We talked to-night of Luther's allowing the Landgrave of Hesse 
 two wives, and that it was with the consent of the wife to whom he- 
 was first married. JOHNSON. " There was no harm in this, so far as 
 she was only concerned, because volcnti non Jit injuria. But it was 
 an offence against the general order of society, and against the law ot' 
 the Gospel, by which one man and one woman arc to be united. No- 
 man can have t\vo wives, but by preventing somebody else from 
 having one." 
 
 FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 17. 
 
 After dinner yesterday, we had a conversation upon cunning. 
 Macleod said that he was not afraid of cunning people ; but would let 
 them play their tricks about him like monkeys. " But," said \ r 
 " they '11 scratch," and Mr. Macqeen added, "they'll invent new tricks 
 as soon as you find out what they do." JOHNSON. " Cunning has 
 effect from the credulity of others, rather than from the abilities of 
 those who are cunning. It requires no extraordinary talents to lie- 
 and deceive." This led us to consider whether it did not require- 
 great abilities to be very wicked. JOHNSON. " It requires great 
 abilities to have the power of being very wicked, but not to be very 
 wicked.* A man who has the power, which great abilities procure 
 him, may use it well or ill ; and it requires more abilities to use 
 it well, than to use it ill. Wickedness is always easier than virtue ; 
 for it takes the short cut to everything. It is much easier to steal a 
 hundred pounds, than to get it by labour, or any other way. Con- 
 sider only what act of wickedness requires great abilities to commit 
 it, when once the person who has to do it has the power; for there is 
 
 In other words Great talents are not essential to being very wicked, but great 
 talents are required to do much evil. Yet accidental circumstances (as birth and 
 riches) may determine the position of the party, and the position may give the power to 
 do great good or evil. ED.
 
 178 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 the distinction. It requires great abilities to conquer an ariny, but 
 none to massacre it after it is conquered." 
 
 The weather this day was rather better than any that we had since 
 we came to Dunvegan. Mr. Macqueen had often mentioned a 
 curious piece of antiquity near this, which he called a temple of the 
 goddess Anaitis. Having often talked of going to see it, he and I 
 set out after breakfast, attended by his servant, a fellow quite like a 
 savage. I must observe here, that in Sky there seems to be much 
 idleness ; for men and boys follow you, as colts follow passengers 
 upon a road. The usual figure of a Sky-boy, is a lown * with bare 
 legs and feet, a dirty kilt, ragged coat and waistcoat, a bare head, and 
 a stick in his hand, which, I suppose, is partly to help the lazy rogue 
 to walk, partly to serve as a kind of a defensive weapon. We walked 
 what is called two miles, but is probably four, from the castle, till we 
 came to the sacred place. The country around is a black, dreary 
 moor on all sides, except to the sea-coast, towards which there 
 is a view through a valley ; and the farm of Say shows some good 
 land. The place itself is green ground, being well drained, by means 
 of a deep glen on each side, in both of which there runs a rivulet 
 with a good quantity of water, forming several cascades, which make 
 a considerable appearance and sound. The first thing we came 
 to was an earthen mound, or dyke, extending from the one precipice 
 to the other. A little further on was a strong stone-wall, not high, 
 but very thick, extending in the same manner. On the outside of it 
 were the ruins of two houses, one on each side of the entry or gate to 
 it. The wall is built all along of uncemented stones, but of so large 
 a size as to make a very firm and durable rampart. It has been 
 built all about the consecrated ground, except where the precipice is 
 steep enough to form an inclosure of itself. The sacred spot contains 
 more than two acres. There are within it the ruins of many houses, 
 none of them large, a cairn, and many graves marked by clusters of 
 stones. Mr. Macqueen insisted that the ruin of a small building, 
 standing east and west, was actually the temple of the goddess 
 Anaitis, where her statue was kept, and from whence processions 
 were made to wash it in one of the brooks. There is, it must be 
 owned, a hollow road, visible for a good way from the entrance ; but 
 Mr. Macqueen, with the keen eye of an antiquary, traced it much 
 further than I could perceive it. There is not above a foot and 
 a half in height of the walls now remaining, and the whole extent of 
 the building was never, I imagine, greater than an ordinary High- 
 land house. Mr. Macqueen has collected a great deal of learning on 
 
 * A Lowland Scottish phrase. Burns, in his Glossary, defines it, " a fellow, a raga- 
 muffin ;' but it also implies a careless, half-grown lad. ED.
 
 ft 
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 173 
 
 the subject of the Temple of Anaitis ; and I had endeavoured, in my 
 journal, to state such particulars as might give some idea of it, and of 
 the surrounding scenery ; but from the great difficulty of describing 
 visible objects, I found my account so unsatisfactory, that my readers 
 would probably have exclaimed 
 
 " And write about it, goddess, and about it ;" 
 
 and therefore 1 have omitted it. 
 
 When we got home, and were again at table with Dr. Johnson, 
 we first talked of portraits. He agreed in thinking them valuable in 
 families. I wished to know which he preferred, fine portraits, or 
 those of which the merit is resemblance. JOHNSON. " Sir, their 
 chief excellence is being like." BOSWELL. "Are you of that 
 opinion as to the portraits of ancestors, whom one has never seen ?'' 
 JOHNSON. " It then becomes of more consequence that they should 
 be like ; and I would have them in the dress of the times, which 
 makes a piece of history. One should like to see how Rorie More 
 looked. Truth, sir, is of the greatest value in these things." Mr. 
 Macqueen observed, that if you think it of no consequence whether 
 portraits are like, if they are but well painted, you may be indifferent 
 whether a piece of history is true or not, if well told." 
 
 Dr. Johnson said at breakfast to day, " that it was but of late 
 that historians bestowed pains and attention in, consulting records, to 
 attain to accuracy. Bacon, in writing his history of Henry VII., does 
 not seem to have consulted any, but to have just taken what he found 
 inother histories, and blended it with what he learned by tradition." 
 He agreed with me that there should be a chronicle kept in every 
 considerable family, to preserve the characters and transactions of 
 successive generations. 
 
 After dinner, I started the subject of the Temple of Anaitis. Mr. 
 Macqeen had laid stress on the name given to the place by the 
 country people Ainnit ; and added, " I knew not what to make of 
 this piece of antiquity, till I met with the Anaitidis dehtbrum in 
 Lydia, mentioned by Pausanias and the elder Pliny." Dr. Johnson, 
 with his usual acuteness, examined Mr. Macqueen as to the meaning 
 of the word Ainnit, in Erse, and it proved to be a water-place, or a 
 place near water, " which," said Mr. Macqueen, " agrees with all the 
 descriptions of the temples of that goddess, which were situated near 
 rivers, that there might be water to wash tho statue." JOHNSON. 
 " Nay, sir, the argument from the name is gone. The name is 
 exhausted by what we see. We have no occasion to go to a distance 
 for what we can pick up under our feet. Had it been an accidental 
 name, the similarity between it and Anaitis might have had some-
 
 174 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 thing in it ; but it turns out to be a mere physiological name." 
 Macleod said, Mr. Macqueen's knowledge of etymology had 
 destroyed his conjecture. JOHNSON. " Yes, sir ; Mr. Macqueen is 
 like the eagle mentioned by "Waller, \vho was shot with an arrow 
 feathered from his own wing."* Mr. Macqueen, would not, however, 
 give up his conjecture. JOHNSON. " You have one possibility for 
 you, and all possibilities against you. It is possible it may be the 
 Temple of Anaitis ; but it is also possible that it may be a fortification, 
 or it may be a place of Christian worship, as the first Christians often 
 chose remote and wild places, to make an impression on the mind : or 
 if it was a heathen temple, it may have been built near a river, for the 
 purpose of lustration; and there is such a multitude of divinities, 
 to whom it may have been dedicated, that the chance of its being a 
 temple of Anaitis is hardly anything. It is like throwing a grain of 
 sand upon the sea-shore to-day, and thinking you may find it to-mor- 
 row. No, sir, this temple, like many an ill-built edifice, tumbles 
 down before it is roofed in." In his triumph over the reverend 
 antiquarian, he indulged himself in a conceit; for, some vestige of the 
 altar of the goddess being much insisted on in support of the hypo- 
 thesis, he said " Mr. Macqueen is fighting pro aris et f ocis"\ 
 
 * " That eagle's fate and mine are one, 
 
 Which, oa the shaft that made him die, 
 Espied a feather of his own 
 
 Wherewith he wont to soar on high." 
 
 To A LADY SINGINO A Sonu OF HIS COMPOSING. 
 
 Byron has made a mnch finer and nobler use of this classical fable, in his lines on 
 Henry KirUe White, who died from excessive study : 
 
 " So the struck eagle, stretched upon the plain, 
 No more through rolling clouds to soar again, 
 Viewed his own feather on the fatal dart, 
 And winged the shaft that quivered in his heart ; 
 Keen wero his pangs, but keener far to feel, 
 He nursed the pinion which impelled the steel ; 
 While the same plumage that had warmed his nest, 
 Drank the last life-drop of his bleeding breast" 
 ED. ENGLISH BARDS AND SCOTCH REVIEWERS. 
 
 t This skirmish about the Temple of Anaitis is worthy of Jonathan Oldbuck and 
 his Prsetorium. The learned ministers antiquarian pertinacity, and Johnson's 
 triumphant acuteness in demolishing the theory, offer a fine contrast. If the discus- 
 sion had been on the " second-eight," the tables would have been turned ; the weak- 
 ness and credulity would have been all on the side of Johnson. Mr. Macqueen seems 
 to have had a passion for identifying Gaelic names with the classic mythology. In 
 Pennant, he traces the " Grugach," or Highland goblin, to the worship of the sun. 
 The name " Grngach" means the Fair-haired; Apollo had golden tresses, and both 
 were drawn as young and handsome: ergo, Apollo and the Grugach were identical, 
 thongh one gnided the sun in its course and the other drank milk from the cow ! 
 This is equal to the parallel between Macsdon and Mon month. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 175 
 
 It was wonderful how well time passed in a remote castle, and in 
 tlreary weather. After supper, we talked of Pennant. It was objected 
 that he was superficial. Dr. Johnson defended him warmly. He said, 
 " Pennant has greater variety of inquiry than almost any man, and has 
 told us more than perhaps one in ten thousand could have done, in the 
 time that he took. He has not said what he was to tell ; so you cannot 
 find fault with him for what he has not told. If a man comes to look 
 for fishes, you cannot blame him if he does not attend to fowls." 
 " But," said Colonel Macleod, "he mentions the unreasonable rise of 
 rents in the Highlands, and says, ' the gentlemen are for emptying 
 the bag, without filling it ;' for that is the phrase he uses. Why does 
 he not tell how to fill it ?" JOHNSON. " Sir, there is no end of 
 negative criticism. He tells what he observes, and as much as he 
 chooses. If he tells what is not true, you may find fault with him ; 
 but, though he tells that the land is not well cultivated, he is not 
 obliged to tell how it may be well cultivated. If I tell that many of 
 the Highlanders go bare-footed, I am not obliged to tell how they 
 may get shoes. Pennant tells a fact. He need go no farther, except 
 he pleases. He exhausts nothing ; and no subject whatever has yet 
 been exhausted. But Pennant has surely told a great deal. Here 
 is a man six feet high, and you are angry because he is not seven." 
 Notwithstanding this eloquent Oratio pro Pennantio, which they 
 who have read this gentleman's Tours, and recollect the Savage and 
 the Shop-ltceper at Monboddo, will probably impute to the spirit of 
 contradiction, I still think that he had better have given more 
 attention to fewer things, than have thrown together such a number 
 of imperfect accounts. 
 
 SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 18. 
 
 Before breakfast, Dr. Johnson came np to my room, to forbid me 
 to mention that this was his birth-day; but I told him I had done it 
 already ; at which he was displeased ; I suppose from wishing to 
 have nothing particular done on his account. Lady Macleod and I 
 got into a warm dispute. She wanted to build a house upon a farm 
 which she has taken, about five miles from the castle, and to make 
 gardens and other ornaments there ; all of which I approved of; but 
 insisted that the seat of the family should always be upon the rock of 
 Dunvegan. JOHNSON. " Ay, in time we'll build all round this rock. 
 You may make a very good house at the farm, but it must not be 
 such as to tempt the Laird of Macleod to go thither to reside. 'Most 
 of the great families of England have a secondary residence, which is 
 called a jointure-house: let the new house be of that kind." The
 
 176 JOUKNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 lady insisted that the rock was very inconvenient ; that there was no 
 place near it where a good garden could be made ; that it must always 
 be a rude place; that it was a Herculean labour to make a dinner 
 here. I was vexed to find the alloy of modern refinement in a lady 
 who had so much old family spirit. " Madam," said I, " if once you 
 quit this rock, there is no knowing where you may settle. You move 
 five miles at first; then to St. Andrews, as the late laird did ; then to 
 Edinburgh ; and so on, till you end at Hampstead, or in France. 
 No, no ; keep to the rock : it is the very jewel of the estate. It looks 
 as if it had been let down from heaven by the four corners, to be the 
 residence of a chief. Have all the comforts and conveniences of life 
 upon it, but never leave Rorie More's cascade." " But," said she, " is 
 it not enough if we keep it ? must we never have more convenience 
 than Rorie More had ? he had his beef brought to dinner in one 
 basket, and his bread in another. Why not as well be Rorie More 
 all over, as live upon his rock ? And should not we tire, in looking 
 perpetually on this rock ? It is very well for you, who have a fine 
 place, and everything easy, to talk thus, and think of chaining 
 honest folks to a rock. You would not live upon it yourself." " Yes, 
 madam," said I, " I would live upon it, were I Laird of Macleod, and 
 should be unhappy if I were not upon it." JOHNSON, with a strong 
 voice, and most determined manner, " Madam, rather than quit the 
 old rock, Boswell would live in the pit ; he would make his bed in the 
 dungeon." I felt a degree of elation, at finding my resolute feudal 
 enthusiasm thus confirmed by such a sanction. The lady was puzzled 
 a little. She still returned to her pretty farm rich gronnd fine 
 garden. " Madam," said Dr. Johnson, " were they in Asia, I would 
 not leave the rock. My opinion on this subject is still the same. An 
 ancient family residence ought to be a primary object ; and though 
 the situation of Dunvegan be such that little can be done here in 
 gardening or pleasure-ground, yet, in addition to the veneration 
 required by the lapse of time, it has many circumstances of natural 
 grandeur, suited to the scat of a Highland Chief; it has the sea, 
 islands, rocks, hills, a noble cascade ; and when the family is again in 
 opulence, something may be done by art."* 
 
 Mr. Donald Macqueen went away to-day, in order to preach at 
 Bracadale next day. We were so comfortably situated at Dunvegan, 
 that Dr. Johnson could hardly be moved from it. I proposed to him 
 that we should leave it on Monday. " No, sir," said he, "I will not 
 go before Wednesday. I will have some more of this good." How- 
 ever, as the weather was at this season so bad, and so very uncertain, 
 
 * Lady Macleod's desiderata have all been supplied. There is now at Dunvegen a 
 good kitchen-garden, a (lower-garden, hothouse, &c. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 1T7 
 
 and we had a great deal to do yet, Mr. Macqueen and I prevailed 
 with him to agree to set out on Monday, if the day should be good. 
 Mr. Macqueen, though it was inconvenient for him to be absent from 
 his harvest, engaged to wait on Monday at Ulinish for us. When he 
 was going away, Dr. Johnson said, " I shall ever retain a great re- 
 gard for you ; then asked him if he had the " Rambler." Mr. Mac- 
 queen said, " No ; but my brother has it." JOHNSON : " Have you 
 the "Idler?" MACQUEEN: "No, sir." JOHNSON: "Then I will 
 order one for you at Edinburgh, which you will keep in remembrance 
 of me." Mr. Macqueen was much pleased with this. He expressed 
 to me, in the strongest terms, his admiration of Dr. Johnson's wonder- 
 ful knowledge, and every other quality for which he is distinguished. 
 I asked Mr. Macqueen if he was satisfied with being a minister in 
 Sky. He said he was ; but he owned that his forefathers having been 
 so long there, and his having been born there, made a chief ingredient 
 in forming his contentment. I should have mentioned, that on our 
 left hand, between Portree and Dr. Macleod's house, Mr. Macqueen 
 told me there had been a college of the Knights Templars ; that tradi- 
 tion said so ; and that there was a ruin remaining of their church, 
 which had been burnt : but I confess Dr. Johnson has weakened my 
 belief in remote tradition. In the dispute about An aids, Mr. Mac- 
 queen said, Asia Minor was peopled by Scythians, and as they were 
 the ancestors of the Celts, the same religion might be in Asia Minor 
 and Sky. JOHNSON: '^Alas! sir, what can a nation that has not 
 letters tell of its original. I have always difficulty to be patient when 
 I hear authors gravely quoted, as giving accounts of savage nations, 
 which accounts they had from the savages themselves. What can 
 the Macraes tell about themselves a thousand years ago ? There is 
 no tracing the connection of ancient nations, but by language ; and 
 therefore I am always sorry when any language is lost, because lan- 
 guages are the pedigree of nations. If you find the same language in 
 distant countries, you may be sure that the inhabitants of each have 
 been the same people ; that is to say, if you find the languages a good 
 deal the same ; for a word here and there being the same will not do. 
 Thus Butler, in his " Hudibras," remembering that Penguin, in the 
 Straits of Magellan, signifies a bird with a white head, and that the 
 same word has, in Wales, the signification of a white-headed wench 
 (pen head, and guin white), by way of ridicule, concludes that the 
 people of those straits are Welsh." 
 
 A young gentleman of the name of Maclean, nephew to the Laird 
 of the Isle of Muck, came this morning ; and, just as we sat down to 
 dinner, came the Laird of the Isle of Muck himself, his lady, sister to 
 Talisker, two other ladies their relations, and a daughter of the late 
 
 M
 
 178 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Macleod of Hamer, who wrote a treatise on the second sight, under 
 the designation of " Theophilus Insulanus." It was somewhat droll 
 to hear this laird called hy his title. Muck would have sounded ill ; 
 so he was called Isle of Muck, which went off with great readiness. 
 The name, as now written, is unseemly, but it is not so bad in the ori- 
 ginal Erse, which is Mouach, signifying the Sows' Island. Buchanan 
 calls it " Insula Porcorum." It is so called from its form. Some call 
 it Isle of Monk.* The laird insists that this is the proper name. It 
 was formerly church-land belonging to Icolmkill, and a hermit lived 
 in it. It is two miles long, and about three quarters of a mile broad. 
 The laird said he had seven score of souls upon it. Last year he had 
 eighty persons inoculated, mostly children, but some of them eighteen 
 years of age. He agreed with the surgeon to come and do it, at half- 
 a-crown a head. It is very fertile in corn, of which they export some ; 
 and its coasts abound in fish. A tailor comes there six times in a 
 year. They get a good blacksmith from the Isle of Egg. 
 
 SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 19. 
 
 It was rather worse weather than any that we had yet. At 
 breakfast, Dr. Johnson said, " Some cunning men choose fools for 
 their wives, thinking to manage them, but they always fail. There 
 is a spaniel fool and a mule fool. The spaniel fool may be made to 
 do by beating. The mule fool will neither do by words nor blows; 
 and the spaniel fool often turns mule at last : and suppose a fool to 
 be made to do pretty well, you must have the continual trouble of 
 making her do. Depend upon it, no woman is the worse for sense 
 and knowledge." Whether afterwards he meant merely to say a 
 polite thing, or to give his opinion, I could not be sure ; but he added, 
 <! Men know that women are an over-match for them, and therefore 
 they choose the weakest or most ignorant. If they did not think so, 
 they never could bo afraid of women knowing as much as them- 
 selves." In justice to the sex, I think it but candid to acknowledge, 
 that, in a subsequent conversation, he told me that he was serious in 
 what he had said. 
 
 He came to my room this morning before breakfast, to read my 
 Journal, which he has done all along. Pie often before said, " I take 
 great delight in reading it." To-day lie said, " You improve : it 
 grows better and better." I observed, there was a danger of my 
 
 * It is so called in the notice of this laird's death : " 1780, Nov. 1-1, in the Isle of Skye, 
 Hector Macleod, Esq., of the Isle of MoDk." " Scots' Mag." The Gaelic name of the 
 island is Eilan-nan-Muchd, the island of swine ; and north of it lies Etiean-nan-Each , 
 the island of horses. Muck forms part of the parish of " Small Isles," including 
 Egg, Muck, Rom, and Canaa. The population of this parish in 1851 was 460. It was 
 formerly mnch larger, hnt has been reduced by emigration. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 17V 
 
 getting a habit of writing in a slovenly manner. " Sir," said he, " it 
 is not written in a slovenly manner. It might be printed, were the 
 subject fit for printing."* While Mr. Beaton preached to us in the 
 dining-room, Dr. Johnson sat in his own room, where I saw lying 
 before him a volume of Lord Bacon's works, the " Decay of Chris- 
 tian Piety," " Monboddo's Origin of Language," and Sterne's " Ser- 
 mons." He asked me to-day how it happened that we were so little 
 together : I told him my Journal took up much time. Yet, on 
 reflection, it appeared strange to me, that although I would run from 
 one end of London to another to pass an hour with him, I should 
 omit to seize any spare time to be in his company, when I am settled 
 in the same house with him. But my Journal is really a task of 
 much time and labour, and fee forbids me to contract it. 
 
 I omitted to mention, in its place, that Dr. Johnson told Mr. 
 Macqueen that he had found the belief of the second-sight universal 
 in Sky, except among the clergy, ,who seemed determined against 
 it. I took the liberty to observe to Mr. Macqueen, that the clergy 
 were actuated by a kind of vanity. " The world," say they, " takes us 
 to be credulous men in a remote corner. We '11 show them that ^ c 
 are more enlightened than they think." The worthy man said that 
 his disbelief of it was from his not finding sufficient evidence j but I 
 could perceive that he was prejudiced against it. 
 
 After dinner to-day, we talked of the extraordinary fact of Lady 
 Grange's being sent to St. Kilda, and confined there for several 
 years, without any means of relief, f Dr. Johnson said, if Macleod 
 
 * As I have faithfully recorded so many minute particulars, I hope I shall be par- 
 doned for inserting so flattering an encomium on what is now offered to the public. 
 BOSWELL. 
 
 t The true story of this lady, which happened in this century, is as frightfully 
 romantic as if it had been the fiction of a gloomy fancy. She was the wife of one of 
 the Lorda of Session in Scotland, a man of the very first blood of his country. For 
 some mysterious reasons, which have never been discovered, she was seized and 
 earned off in the dark, she knew not by whom, and by nightly journeys was conveyed 
 to the Highland shores, from whence she was transported by sea to the remote rock 
 of St. Kilda, where she remained, amongst its few wild inhabitants, a forlorn pri- 
 soner, but had a constant supply of provisions, and a woman to wait on her. No 
 inquiry was made after her, till she at last found means to convey a letter to a confi : 
 ilential friend, by the daughter of a catechist, who concealed it in a clue of yarn. 
 Information being thus obtained at Edinburgh, a ship was sent to bring her off; but 
 intelligence of this being received, she was conveyed to Macleod's island of Harris 
 where she died. 
 
 In Carstares's " State Papers" we find an authentic narrative of Connor, a Catholic 
 priest, who turned Protestant, being seizedby some of Lord Seaforth's people, and 
 (ietained prisoner in the island of Harris several years ; he was fed with bread and 
 water, and lodged in a house where he was exposed to the rains and cold. Sir James 
 Ogilvy writes, June 18, 1G67, that the Lord Chancellor, the Lord Advocate, and him- 
 self were to meet next day, to take effectual methods to have this redressed. Connor 
 was then still detained, p. 310. iThia shows what private oppression might in the last
 
 180 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOfK 
 
 would let it be known that he had such a place for naughty ladies, 
 he might make it a very profitable island. We had, in the course of 
 
 our tour, heard of St. Kilda poetry. Dr. Johnson observed, " It must 
 be very poor, because they have very few images." BOSWELL. 
 " There may be a poetical genius shown in combining these, and in 
 
 century be practised in the Hebrides. In the same collection, the Earl of Argyle 
 gives a picturesque account of an embassy from the great M'Neil, of Barra, as that 
 insular chief used to be denominated. " I received a letter yesterday from M'Neil, 
 of Barra, who lives very far off, sent by a gentleman in all formality, offering his 
 service, which had made you laugh to see his entry. His style of his letter runs as 
 if he were of another kingdom," p. 643. BOSWELL. 
 
 [The abduction of Lady Grange which her husband, by a curious travesty of legal 
 phraseology, termed sequestrating his wife took place on the night of the 22nd of 
 January, 1732. She was kept till August in an old tower at Wester Polmaise, county 
 of Stirling, and then carried off on horseback to the Highlands, passing through the 
 lands of Lovat and Glengary. At Lochourn, an arm of the sea on the west coast, she 
 was transferred to a vessel, and taken to the small island of Heskir, belonging to Sir 
 Alexander Macdonald. There she was kept for nearly two years. In June, 1734, she 
 was conveyed to St. Kilda, the property of Macleod of Macleod, and was kept there 
 seven years. Macleod's steward came once a- year to the island to collect tb.6 feathers 
 of the sea-fowl the representative of rent in St. Kilda and on these occasions he 
 brought with him, for the captive lady, a supply of tea, sugar, wheat, and whiskey. 
 Of the latter she appears to have been too fond : at times she drank to excess, and 
 was subject to ungovernable fits of passion. These inherent defects led first to a 
 separation between Lady Grange and her husband, and afterwards prompted the 
 savage expedient of confining her on a solitary island, cut off from her family and 
 from all congenial or suitable society. Writing-materials were at first debarred her ; 
 but in the winter of 1740-1 a communication from Lady Grange reached her friends
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 181 
 
 making poetry of them." JOHNSON. " Sir, a man cannot make fire 
 but in proportion as he has fuel. He cannot coin guineas but in pro- 
 portion as he has gold." At tea he talked of his intending to go to 
 Italy in 1775. Macleod said he -would like Paris better. JOHNSON. 
 " No, sir ; there are none of the French literati now alive, to visit 
 whom I would cross a sea. I can find in Buffon's book all that he 
 can say.* 
 
 After supper, he said, " I am sorry that prize-fighting is gone 
 out ; every art should be preserved, and the art of defence is surely 
 important. It is absurd that our soldiers should have swords, and not 
 be taught the use of them. Prize-fighting made people accustomed 
 not to be alarmed at seeing their own blood, or feeling a little pain 
 from a wound. I think the heavy glaymore was an ill -contrived 
 weapon. A man could only strike once with it. It employed both 
 his hands, and he must of course be soon fatigued with wielding it ; 
 so that if his antagonist could only keep playing for a while, he was 
 sure of him. I would fight with a dirk against Korie More's sword. 
 I could ward off a blow with a dirk, and then run in upon my enemy. 
 When within that heavy sword, I have him ; he is quite helpless, and 
 I could stab him at my leisure, like a calf. It is thought by sensible 
 -military men, that the English do not enough avail themselves of 
 their superior strength of body against the French ; for that must 
 
 liy means of the minister of St. Hilda and his wife, who had quarrelled with Macleod's 
 steward, and left the island. Legal steps were taken to rescue the lady, but they fell 
 through, and Lady Grange was removed to the Macleod country in Skye. She sur- 
 -vived till May, 1745, when she died at Waternish, and was secretly interred in the 
 charchyard of Trumpan. The parties who assisted Grange in the abduction were the 
 notorious Lord Lovat, Mr. Forster, of Corsebonny, and Mr. John Macleod, advocate. 
 Sir Alexander Macdonald and Macleod were also principals in the affair, for without 
 their concurrence the detention and concealment could not have been accomplished. 
 It is probable they all believed the lady to be partially insane, as well as mischievious. 
 She was of a violent race, her father, Chiesly of Dairy, having murdered Sir George 
 Lockhart,the Lord President. Lord Grange's defence was, that " there was great reason 
 to think she would daily go on to do mischief to her family, and to affront and bring a 
 blot on her children, especially her daughters. These," he added, " were things that 
 could not be redressed in a court of justice, and we had not then a madhouse to lock 
 such unhappy people up in." There was another cause. Grange, as the brother of 
 the Earl of Mar, who headed the enterprise in 1715, was connected with the Jacobite 
 party, and was said to be privy to some treasonable designs. He denied this, but ad- 
 mitted that his wife possessed a letter written by him, in which he had made reflec- 
 tions on Sir Robert Walpole, and which letter she had threatened to take to London, 
 and use to his disadvantage. The story of Lady Grange is told at length in Mr. 
 Chambers's "Traditions of Edinburgh," and some letters of Lord Grange on the sub- 
 ject have been published in one of the volumes of the Spalding Club. ED.] 
 
 * I doubt the justice of my fellow-traveller's remark concerning the French literati, 
 many of whom, I am told, have considerable merit in conversation, as well as in their 
 writings. That of Monsieur de Buffon, in particular, I am well assured, is highly 
 instructive and entertaining. BOSWBLL.
 
 183 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 always have a great advantage in pushing with bayonets. I have 
 heard an officer say, that if women could be made to stand, they 
 would do as well as men in a mere interchange of bullets from a 
 distance ; but if a body of men should come close up to them, then 
 to be sure, they must be overcome : [now," said he, " in the same 
 manner the weaker-bodied French must be overcome by our strong 
 soldiers." * 
 
 The subject of duelling was introduced. JOHNSON. " There is no 
 case in England where one or other of the combatants must die ; if 
 you have overcome your adversary by disarming him, that is suffi- 
 cient, though you should not kill him ; your honour, or the honour of 
 your family is restored, as much as it can be by a duel. It is cowardly 
 to force your antagonist to renew the combat, when you know that 
 you have the advantage of him by superior skill. You might just as 
 well go and cut his throat while he is asleep in his bed. When a duel 
 begins, it is supposed there may be an equality ; because it is not 
 always skill that prevails. It depends much on presence of mind ; 
 nay, on accidents. The wind may be in a man's face ; he may fall. 
 Many such things may decide the superiority. A man is sufficiently 
 punished by being called out, and subjected to the risk that is in a 
 duel." But on my suggesting that the injured person is equally 
 subjected to risk, he fairly owned he could not explain the rationality 
 of duelling.f 
 
 MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 20. 
 
 When I awaked, the storm was higher still. It abated about 
 
 * This was proved during the late Peninsular war. The superior physical strength 
 of the English made them irresistible in a charge with bayonets. ED. 
 
 + See this subject further discussed in "Boswell's Life of Johnson," under date 
 1783 ; Illustrated Library edition, voi. iv. p. 147. Johnson was in error in stating that 
 there was no case in England in which one of the parties in a duel must die. There 
 was a famous case in the reign of James I. On the 8th of November, 1609, Lord Whar- 
 ton and James Stewart of Blantyre, son of Treasurer Stewart, met in single combat on 
 Islington Fields ; at the first thrust each killed the other, and they fell dead in one 
 another's arms. Boswell little imagined that his own son and heir, Sir Alexander 
 Boswell, was to perish in a duel. This accomplished and ill-fated gentleman having 
 written some political squibs imputing cowardice to another Scottish gentleman, 
 Stuart of Duncarn, was challenged by Mr. Stuart. The parties met on the 26th of 
 March, 1822. Sir Alexander, conscious that he had in an unhappy moment injured 
 his opponent, fired into the air ; but Mr. Stuart's shot took effect, and the baronet died 
 in the course of the next day. What rendered this affair more melancholy was the 
 circumstance that Sir Alexander had just returned from paying the last duties to his 
 brother, James Boswell, who died at his chambers in the Middle Temple, March 24th, 
 1822, aged forty-three. Mr. James Boswell was the literary executor of Malone, and 
 associated with him in his enlarged edition of Shakspeare. His elder brother, Sir 
 Alexander, was author of some humourous Scottish songs. Both inherited the social 
 qualities and lively talents of their father, with superior taste and judgment. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 183 
 
 nine, and the sun shone ; but it rained again very soon, and it was 
 not a day for travelling. At breakfast, Dr. Johnson told us, " there 
 was once a pretty good tavern in Catherine-street in the Strand, 
 where very good company met in an evening, and each man called 
 for his own half-pint of wine, or gill, if he pleased ; they were frugal 
 men, and nobody paid but for what he himself drank. The house 
 furnished no supper ; but a woman attended with mutton-pies, which 
 any body might purchase. I was introduced to this company by 
 Gumming the Quaker, and used to go there sometimes when I drank 
 wine. In the last age, when my mother lived in London, there were 
 two sets of people, those who gave the wall, and those who took it 
 the peaceable and the quarrelsome. When I returned to Lichfield, 
 after having been in London, my mother asked me whether I was one 
 of those who gave the wall, or those who took it. Now, it is fixed 
 that every man keeps to the right ; or, if one is taking the wall, 
 another yields it, and it is never a dispute." He was very severe on 
 a lady, whose name was mentioned. He said, he would have sent 
 her to St. Kilda. That she was as bad as negative badness could be, 
 and stood in the way of what was good ; that insipid beauty would 
 not go a great way ; and that such a woman might be cut out of a 
 cabbage, if there was a skilful artificer. 
 
 Macleod was too late in coming to breakfast. Dr. Johnson said, 
 laziness was worse than the toothach. BOSWELL. " I cannot agree 
 with you, sir ; a basin of cold water or a horsewhip will cure laziness.'' 
 JOHNSON. " No, sir, it will only put off the fit ; it will not cure 
 the disease. I have been trying to cure my laziness all my life, and 
 could not do it." BOSWELL. " But if a man does in a shorter time 
 what might be the labour of a life, there is nothing to be said against 
 him." JOHNSON (perceiving at once that I alluded to him and his 
 Dictionary). " Suppose that flattery to be true, the consequence 
 would be, that the world would have no right to censure a man ; but 
 that will not justify him to himself." 
 
 After breakfast, he said to me, " A Highland Chief should now 
 endeavour to do everything to raise his rents by means of the industry 
 of his people. Formerly, it was right for him to have his house full of 
 idle fellows : they were his defenders, his servants, his dependents, his 
 friends. Now they may be better employed. The system of things 
 is now so much altered, that the family cannot have influence but by 
 riches, because it has no longer the power of ancient feudal times. 
 An individual of a family may have it ; but it cannot now belong to 
 a family, unless you could have a perpetuity of men with the same 
 views. Macleod has four times the land that the Duke of Bedford 
 has. I think, with his spirit, he may in time make himself the great-
 
 181 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 est man in the king's dominions ; for land may always be improved 
 to a certain degree. I would never have any man sell land to throw 
 money into the funds, as is often done, or to try any other species of 
 trade. Depend upon it, this rage of trade will destroy itself. You 
 and I shall not see it ; but the time will come when there will be an 
 end of it. Trade is like gaming. If a whole company are gamesters, 
 play must cease ; for there is nothing to be won. When all nations 
 are traders, there is nothing to be gained by trade, and it will stop 
 first where it is brought to the greatest perfection. Then the pro- 
 prietors of land only will be the great men." I observed, it was 
 hard that Macleod should find ingratitude in so many of his people. 
 JOHNSON. "Sir, gratitude is a fruit of great cultivation; you do not 
 find it among gross people." I doubt of this. Nature seems to have 
 implanted gratitude in all living creatures. The lion, mentioned by 
 Aulus Gellius, had it.* It appears to me that culture, which brings 
 luxury and selfishness with it, has a tendency rather to weaken than 
 promote this affection. 
 
 Dr. Johnson said this morning, when talking of our setting out, 
 that he was in the state in which Lord Bacon represents kings. He 
 desired the end, but did not like the means. He wished much to get 
 home, but was unwilling to travel in Sky. "You are like kings, 
 too, in this sir," said I, " that you must act under the direction of 
 others." 
 
 TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 21. 
 
 The uncertainty of our present situation having prevented me 
 from receiving any letters from home for some time, I could not help 
 being uneasy. Dr. Johnson had an advantage over me in this re- 
 spect, he having no wife or child to occasion anxious apprehensions ill 
 his mind. It was a good morning, so we resolved to set out. But, 
 before quitting this castle, where we have been so well entertained, 
 let me give a short description of it. 
 
 Along the edge of the rock, there are the remains of a wall, which 
 is now covered with ivy. A square court is formed by buildings of 
 different ages, particularly some towers, said to be of great antiquity ; 
 and at one place there is a row of false cannon of stone. There is a 
 very large unfinished pile, four stories high, which we were told was 
 here when Leod, the first of this family, came from the Isle of Man, 
 married the heiress of the M'Crails [Mac Eailts], the ancient possessors 
 of Dun vegan, and afterwards acquired by conquest as much land as he 
 had got by marriage. He surpassed the House of Austria ; for he was 
 
 * Aul. Gellius, lib. v., c. 14. BOSWKLL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 155 
 
 felix both lella gerere et nubere* John Breck Macleod,f the grand- 
 father of the late laird, began to repair the castle, or rather, to com- 
 plete it : but he did not live to finish his undertaking. Not doubt- 
 ing, however, that he should do it, he, like those who have had their 
 epitaphs written before they died, ordered the following inscription, 
 composed by the minister of the parish, to be cut upon a broad stone 
 above one of the lower windows, where it still remains to celebrate 
 what was not done, and to serve as a momento of the uncertainty of 
 life, and the presumption of man : 
 
 " Joannes Macleod, Beganoduni Dominus, gentis siwe Philarchus, Durinesise ILtraiu- 
 Vaternesiae, &c. ; Baro D. Flora; Macdonald matrimonial! vinculo conjugatus turrem 
 hanc Beganodunenscm proavorum liabitaculum longe vetustissimum diu penitus labe- 
 fectatam, anno a?rae vulgaris MDCLXXXVI instruavit.$ 
 
 " Quern stabilire juvat proavorum tecta vetasta, 
 
 Omne scelus fugiat, justitiamquc colat. 
 
 Vertit in aerias turres magalia virtus, 
 
 Inque casas humiles tecta superba nefas." 
 
 Fortunate, both in war and marriage. The allusion is to the well-known epigram 
 on the policy of Austria in obtaining by marriage what other kingdoms could only 
 gam by war : Bella gerant alii . tu> felix Austria, nnbe : 
 
 Nam quce Mara aliis, dat tibi regna Venue." 
 
 Austria became possessed of two kingdoms, besides archduchies, principalities, 
 couutships, and lordships, all by these fortunate marriages. ED. 
 
 + John Dreachd Macleod, spotted or speckled; thus breachdan is the Gaelic name 
 for a plaid. Another of the Macleods, as we have seen, was called Ala.->tair Crotach 
 Macleod ; or Alexander the Hump-backed. Such appellations are common in the his- 
 tory of Highland families, as Donald Dhu, Black Donald ; Bob Roy, Red Rob, &<. 
 One of the Campbells, Sir Duncan Campbell, of Lochow, is known as Donaeha I>htt 
 nan Charraichd, or Black Duncan with the Cowl. A character well known in High- 
 land story, Allan Breck Stewart, the assassin of Campbell of Glenure, factor for Go- 
 vernment on the forfeited estates of Stewart of Ardshiel, received his appellation of 
 Sreck in consequence of his complexion being remarkably freckled. ED. 
 
 J Mr. Macanlay remarks (" Essays," p. 161) that Philarchus, in the above inscription, 
 is obviously a false spelling for Phylarchus, the chief of a tribe. The inscription 
 may be rendered, " John Macleod, lord of Dunvegan, Harris, and Vaternish, &c., united 
 in marriage to Flora Macdonald, restored, in the year of the vulgar era, 1686, his 
 Tower of Dunvegan, long the very ancient abode of his ancestors, which had fallen 
 utterly into decay. 
 
 He who his old ancestral ruined halls 
 
 Delights to renovate and build secure, 
 
 Should follow still where Justice, godlike, calls ; 
 
 And shun each glittering snare, each faithless lure. 
 
 Virtue, supreme, the meanest hut can raise, 
 
 And impious Vice the loftiest towers debase." 
 
 Johnson dees not notice the pompons heraldic inscription, but remarks that the 
 grandfather of the young chief began to repair the old tower, but soon desisted, 
 and applied his money to worse uses. The young chief himself inflicted as severe a 
 blow on the family by the sale of the estate of Harris, five years after the period of 
 Johnson's visit. The renovation of the Castle of Dunvegan has been accomplished, 
 as we havo stated, by the late and present Macleod, and the woods, gardens, and 
 shrubberies continue to flourish in defiance of the sea-breezes. ED.
 
 186 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Macleod and Talisker accompanied us. We passed by the parish church 
 of Durinish. The church-yard is not inclosed, but a pretty, murmuring 
 brook runs along one side of it. In it is a pyramid, erected to the 
 memory of Thomas Lord Lovat, by his son Lord Simon, who suffered 
 on Tower-hill. It is of freestone, and, I suppose, about thirty feet 
 high. There is an inscription on a piece of white marble inserted in 
 it, which I suspect to have been the composition of Lord Lovat him- 
 self, being much in his pompous style : 
 
 " This pyramid was erected by Simon Lord Fraser, of Lovat, 
 in honour of Lord Thomas, his father, a peer of Scotland, and chief of 
 the great and ancient clan of the Erasers. Being attacked for his 
 birth-right by the family of Atholl, then in power and favour with King 
 William, yet, by the valour and fidelity of his clan, and the assist- 
 ance of the Campbells, the old friends and allies of his family, 
 he defended his birth-right with such greatness and fermety [Fr. 
 fermete] of soul, and such valour and activity, that he was an honour 
 to his name, and a good pattern to all brave chiefs of clans. He died 
 in the month of May, 1699, in the 63rd year of his age, in Dunvegan, 
 the house of the Laird of Macleod, whose sister he had married : by 
 whom he had the above Simon Lord Fraser, and several other 
 children. And, for the great love he bore to the family of Macleod, 
 he desired to be buried near his wife's relations, in the place where 
 two of her uncles lay. And his son, Lord Simon, to show to posterity 
 his great affection for his mother's kindred, the brave Macleods, 
 chooses rather to leave his father's bones with them, than carry them 
 to his own burial-place, near Lovat." 
 
 I have preserved this inscription, though of no great value, 
 thinking it characteristical of a man who has made some noise in the 
 world. Dr. Johnson said it was poor stuff, such as Lord Lovat's 
 butler might have written.* 
 
 I observed, in this church-yard, a parcel of people assembled at a 
 funeral, before the grave was dug. The coffin, with the corpse in it, 
 was placed on the ground, while the people alternately assisted 
 in making a grave. One man, at a little distance, was busy cutting 
 a long turf for it, with the crooked spade which is used in Sky ; 
 a very awkward instrument. The iron part of it is like a plough- 
 coulter; it has a rude tree for a handle, in which a wooden pin 
 is placed for the foot to press upon. A traveller might, without 
 further inquiry, have set this down as the mode of burying in Sky. 
 
 * It mo longer remains to amuse or offend the traveller. The obelisk is in a 
 very dilapidated state, and the marble tablet containing the inscription fell down 
 some time ago. The fragments were removed to the grounds near Dunvegan 
 Castle. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 187 
 
 I was told, however, that the usual way is to have a grave previously 
 dug. 
 
 I observed to-day, that the common way of carrying home their 
 grain here is in loads, on horse-back. They have also a few sleds, or 
 cars, as we call them in Ayrshire, clumsily made, and rarely used. 
 
 We got to Ulinish about six o'clock, and found a very good farm- 
 house, of two stories. Mr. Macleod of Ulinish, the sheriff-substitute 
 of the island, was a plain, honest gentleman, a good deal like an 
 English justice of peace; not much given to talk, but sufficiently 
 sagacious, and somewhat droll. His daughter, though she was never 
 out of Sky, was a very well-bred woman. Our reverend friend, 
 Mr. Donald Macqueen, kept his appointment, and met us here. 
 
 Talking of Phipps's voyage to the North Pole, Dr. Johnson 
 observed, that it " was conjectured that our former navigators have 
 kept too near land, and so have found the sea frozen far north, 
 because the land hinders the free motion of the tide ; but, in the wide 
 ocean, where the waves tumble at their full convenience, it is 
 imagined that the frost does not take effect." 
 
 WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 22. 
 
 In the morning I walked out, and saw a ship, the Margaret of 
 Clyde, pass by with a number of emigrants on board. It was a mel- 
 ancholy sight. After breakfast, we went to see what was called a 
 subterraneous house, about a mile off. It was upon the side of a rising 
 ground. It w r as discovered by a fox's having taken up his abode in it, 
 and in chasing him they dug into it. It was very narrow and low, 
 and seemed about forty feet in length. Near it, we found the founda- 
 tions of several small huts, built of stone. Mr. Macqueen, who is 
 always for making everything as ancient as possible, boasted that it 
 was the dwelling of some of the first inhabitants of the island, 
 and observed, what a curiosity it was to find here a specimen of the 
 houses of the aborigines, which, he believed, could be found no where 
 else ; and it was plain that they lived without fire. Dr. Johnson 
 remarked that they who made this were not in the rudest state ; for 
 that it was more difficult to make it, than to build a house ; there- 
 fore, certainly those who made it were in possession of houses, and 
 had this only as a hiding-place. It appeared to me, that the vestiges 
 of houses, just by it, confirmed Dr. Johnson's opinion. 
 
 From an old tower, near this place, is an extensive view of Loch 
 Bracadale, and, at a distance, of the isles of Barra and South Uist; and 
 on the land side, the Cuillin, a prodigious range of mountains, capped 
 with rocky pinnacles, in a strange variety of shapes. They resemble 
 the mountains near Corte, in Corsica, of which there is a veiy good
 
 188 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 print. They make part of a great range for deer, which, though 
 entirely devoid of trees, is, in these countries, called & forest* 
 
 In the afternoon, Ulinish carried us in his boat to an island 
 possessed by him, where we saw an immense cave, much more deserving 
 the title of antrum immune than that of the Sybil, described by 
 Virgil, which I likewise have visited. It is 180 feet long, about 30 
 feet broad, and at least 30 feet high. This cave, we were told, had a 
 remarkable echo, but we found none. They said it was owing to the 
 great rains having made it damp. Such are the excuses by which 
 the exaggeration of Highland narratives is palliated. There is a 
 plentiful garden at Ulinish (a great rarity in Sky), and several 
 trees ; and near the house is a hill, which has an Erse name, signify- 
 ing " the hill of strife," where, Mr. Macqueen informed us, justice 
 was of old administered. It is like the mons placiti of Scone, or 
 those hills which are called laics ; such as Kelly law, North Berwick 
 iato, and several others. It is singular that this spot should happen 
 now to be the sheriff's residence. 
 
 We had a very cheerful evening, and Dr. Johnson talked a good 
 deal on the subject of literature. Speaking of the noble family of 
 Boyle, he said, that all the Lords Orrery', till the present, had been 
 writers. The first wrote several plays; the second was Bentley's 
 antagonist ; the third wrote the " Life of Swift," and several other 
 things ; his son Hamilton wrote some papers in the "Adventurer" and 
 " World." He told us he was well acquainted with Swift's " Lord 
 Orrery." He said he was a feeble-minded man ; that, on the publication 
 of Dr. Delany's " Remarks" on his book, he was so much alarmed that 
 he was afraid to read them. Dr. Johnson comforted him, by telling him 
 they were both in the right ; that Delany had seen most of the good 
 side of Swift, Lord Orrery most of the bad. Macleod asked if it was 
 not wrong in Orrery to expose the defects of a man with whom he 
 lived in intimacy. JOHNSON. " Why no, sir, after the man is dead ; 
 
 * Thus Ettrick Forest retains the name, though only a range of mountainous sheep- 
 walks. They had all been partially wooded at some former period. " A deer forest," 
 says Sir Thomas Dick Lander, in hie Notes to Gilpin, " is a very different thisg from 
 a forest of trees. The term implies no more than a very large tract of wild country, 
 set apart for red deer, and where the princely sport of hunting, or rather of stalking, 
 that noble animal may be enjoyed in perfection." A passion for this sport has of late 
 sprang up among our noblemen and gentry. Deer forests in the Highlands are let 
 for large sums ; moors for grouse-shooting are also let during the season ; and from 
 these sources some proprietors sow derive a greater income than the whole estates 
 brought a hundred years since. Nor is it likely that any alteration, or even the abo- 
 lition of the game-laws, will affect the Northern proprietors. Deer do not come within 
 the statute ; grouse are not to be found in corn-fields ; and ptarmigan do not frequent 
 baronial woods. No one but the rural improver and drainer will drive the deer and 
 grouse away, and their operations are very slow when thus counteracted by another 
 interest. En.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES, 189 
 
 for then it is done historically." * He added, " If Lord Orrery had 
 been rich, he would have been a very liberal patron. His conversa- 
 tion was like his writing, neat and elegant, but without strength, 
 He grasped at more than his abilities could reach : tried to pass- for a 
 better talker, a better writer, and a better thinker than he was. 
 There was a quarrel between him and his father, in which his father 
 was to blame; because it arose from the son's not allowing his wife to 
 keep company with his father's mistress. The old lord showed his 
 resentment in his will; leaving his library from his son, and assigning, 
 as his reason, that he could not make use of it." 
 
 I mentioned the affectation of Orrery, in ending all his letters on 
 the Life of Swift in studied varieties of phrase, and never in the com- 
 mon mode of, " / am" &c. ; an observation, which I remember to 
 have been made several years ago by old Mr. Sheridan. This species 
 of affectation in writing, as a foreign lady of distinguished talent* 
 once remarked to me, is almost peculiar to the English. I took up a 
 volume of Dryden, containing the " Conquest of Granada," and several 
 other plays, of which all the dedications had such studied conclusions. 
 Dr. Johnson said such conclusions were more elegant, and, in address- 
 ing persons of high rank (as when Dryden dedicated to the Duke of 
 York), they were likewise more respectful. I agreed that there ifc 
 was much better ; it was making his escape from the royal presence 
 with a genteel sudden timidity, in place of having the resolution to 
 stand still, and make a formal bow.f 
 
 * Orrery stands in a worse position than moit biographers of this class ; for he had 
 paid servile court to Swift while alive, and vilified his memory after death, not only 
 by exposing his personal defects, but by unfounded assertions respecting his birth, 
 parentage, &c. Swift's opinion of his noble biographer is sufficiently indicated by 
 the fact that he left among his papers a letter from Lord Orrery unopened, and 
 endorsed, "This will keep cool." It is not improbable, as conjectured by Scott, that 
 this touch of caustic humour may have been the cause of Lord Orrery's ungenerous and 
 unfair treatment of Swift. ED. 
 
 + Dryden's "Epistles Dedicatory" are models of the adulatory style. He invests 
 his patrons indiscriminately with every virtue under heaven; and in language that 
 for ease, spirit, and variety, has never yet been excelled. The character of the Duke 
 of York (James II.) is familiar to most readers since Mr. Macaulay published his history ; 
 yet Dryden addresses him in the following strain : 
 
 " I make my last appeal to your Royal Highness as to a sovereign tribunal. Heroes 
 should only be judged by heroes, because they only are capable of measuring great and 
 heroic actions by the rule and standard of their own. If Almanzor has failed in any 
 point of honour, I must therein acknowledge that he deviates from your Royal High- 
 ness, who are the pattern of it. But if at any time he fulfils the parts of personal 
 valour, and of conduct of a soldier, and of a general ; or, if I could yet give him a 
 character more advantageous than what he has of the most unshaken friend, the- 
 greatest of subjects, and the best of masters, I should draw all the world a true 
 resemblance of your worth and virtues ; at least, as far as they are capable of being 
 copied by the mean abilities of, Sir, your Royal Ilighness's most humble and most obe- 
 dient Servant, JOHN DBYDES."
 
 190 JOUKNAL OP A TOUB, 
 
 Lord Orrery's unkind treatment of his son, in his will, led us to 
 talk of the dispositions a man should have when dying. I said, I did 
 not see why a man should act differently with respect to those of 
 whom he thought ill when in health, merely because he was dying. 
 JOHNSON : " I should not scruple to speak against a party, when 
 dying ; but should not do it against an individual. It is told of 
 Sixtus Quintus, that on his death-bed, in the intervals of his last 
 pangs, he signed death-warrants." Mr. Macqueen said he should 
 not do so ; he would have more tenderness of heart. JOHNSON : " I 
 believe I should not either ; but Mr. Macqueen and I are cowards. It 
 would not be from tenderness of heart ; for the heart is as tender 
 when a man is in health as when he is sick, though his resolution 
 may be stronger. Sixtus Quintus was a sovereign as well as a priest; 
 and, if the criminals deserved death, he was doing his duty to the 
 last. You would not think a judge died ill, who should be carried 
 off by an apoplectic fit while pronouncing sentence of death. Con- 
 sider a class of men whose business it is to distribute death soldiers, 
 who die scattering bullets nobody thinks they die ill on that ac- 
 count." 
 
 Talking of biography, he said, he did not think that the life 
 of any literary man in England had been well written. Beside the 
 common incidents of life, it should tell us his studies, his mode of 
 living, the means by which he attained to excellence, and his opinion 
 of his own works. He told us he had sent Derrick to Dryden's 
 relations to gather materials for his life ; and he believed Derrick had 
 got all that he himself should have got ; but it was nothing. He 
 added, he had a kindness for Derrick, and was sorry he was dead. 
 
 His notion as to the poems published by Mr. Macpherson, as the 
 works of Ossian, was not shaken here. Mr. Macqueen always evaded 
 the point of authenticity, saying only that Maepherson's pieces 
 fell far short of those he knew in Erse, which were said to be 
 Ossian's. JOHNSON : " I hope they do. I am not disputing that you 
 may have poetry of great merit; but that Maepherson's is not a 
 translation from ancient poetry. You do not believe it. I say before 
 you, you do not believe it, though you are very willing that the 
 world should believe it." Mr. Macqueen made no answer to this. 
 Dr. Johnson proceeded : " I look upon Maepherson's 'Fingal' to be 
 as gross an imposition as ever the world was troubled with. Had it 
 been really an ancient work, a true specimen how men thought at 
 that time, it would have been a curiosity of the first rate. As a 
 modern production, it is nothing." He said he could never get the 
 meaning of an Erse song explained to him. They told him the 
 chorus was generally unmeaning. " I take it," said he, " Erse songs
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 191 
 
 are like a song which I remember : it was composed in Queen 
 Elizabeth's time, on the Earl of Essex ; and the burthen was 
 " Radaratoo, radarate, radara tadara tandore." 
 
 "But surely," said Mr. Macqueen, " there were words to it which 
 had meaning." JOHNSON : "Why, yes, sir; I recollect a stanza, and 
 you shall have it : 
 
 " ! then bespoke the prentices all, 
 Living in London, both proper and tall, 
 For Essex's sake they would fight all. 
 
 Radaratoo, radarate, radara, tadara, tandore."* 
 
 When Mr. Macqueen began again to expatiate on the beauty 
 of Ossian's poetrj^, Dr. Johnson entered into no farther controversy, 
 but, with a pleasant smile, only cried " Ay, ay ; Radaratoo radarate'' 
 
 THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 23. 
 
 I took " Fingal" down to the parlour in the morning, and tried a 
 test proposed by Mr. Roderick Macleod, son to Ulinish. Mr. Mac- 
 queen had said he had some of the poem in the original. I desired 
 him to mention any passage in the printed book, of which he could 
 repeat the original. He pointed out one in page 50 of the quarto 
 edition, and read the Erse, while Mr. Roderick Macleod and I looked 
 on the English ; and Mr. Macleod said, that it was pretty like what Mr. 
 Macqueen had recited. But when Mr. Macqueen read a description 
 of Cuchullin's sword, in Erse, together with a translation of it in 
 English verse, by Sir James Foulis, Mr. Macleod said that was much 
 more like than Mr. Macpherson's translation of the former passage. 
 Mr. Macqueen then repeated, in Erse, a description of one of the 
 horses in Cuchillin's car. Mr. Macleod said Mr. Macpherson's 
 English was nothing like it. 
 
 When Dr. Johnson came down, I told him that I had now 
 obtained some evidence concerning " Fingal ;" for that Mr. Macqueen 
 had repeated a passage in the original Erse, which Mr. Macpherson's 
 translation was pretty like ; and reminded him that he himself had 
 
 * This droll quotation, I have since found, was from a song in honour of the Earl 
 of Essex, called " Queen Elizabeth's Champion," which is preserved in a collection 
 of Old Ballads, in three volumes, published in London, in different years, between 
 1720 and 1730. The full verse is as follaws : 
 
 " O ! then bespoke the prentices all, 
 
 Living in London, both proper and tall, 
 
 In a kind letter sent straight to the Queen, 
 
 For Essex's sake they would fight all. 
 Rarlerer too, tandaro te, 
 Raderer, tandorer, tan do re." BOSWKLL.
 
 192 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 once said, he did not require Mr. Macplierson's Ossian to be more 
 like the original than Pope's " Homer." JOHNSON : " Well, sir ; this is 
 just what I always maintained. He has found names, and stories, 
 and phrases nay, passages in old songs, and with them has blended 
 his own compositions ; and so made what he gives to the world as the 
 translation of an ancient poem." If this was the case, I observed, it 
 was wrong to publish it as a poem in six books. JOHNSON : " Yes, 
 sir; and to ascribe it to a time, too, when the Highlanders knew 
 nothing of books, and nothing of six, or perhaps were got the length 
 of counting six. We have been told by Condamine, of a nation that 
 could count no more than four. This should be told to Monboddo ; it 
 would help him. There is as much charity in helping a man down hill 
 as in helping him up hill." BOSWELL : "I don't think there is as much 
 charity." JOHNSON : " Yes, sir ; if his tendency be downwards. Till 
 he is at the bottom, he flounders ; get him once there and he is quiet. 
 Swift tells, that Stella had a trick, which she learned from Addison, 
 of encouraging a man in absurdity, instead of endeavouring to extri- 
 cate him. " * 
 
 Mr. Macqueen's answers to the inquiries concerning Ossian were 
 so unsatisfactory, that I could not help observing that, were he 
 examined in a court of justice, he would find himself under a necessity 
 of being more explicit. JOHNSON : " Sir, he has told Blair a little 
 too much, which is published ; and he sticks to it. He is so much at 
 the head of things here, that he has never been accustomed to be 
 closely examined ; and so he goes on quite smoothly." BOSWELL : 
 " He has never had any body to work him." JOHNSON : " No, sir ; and 
 a man is seldom disposed to work himself; though he ought to work 
 himself, to be sure." Mr. Macqueen made no reply. f 
 
 * " Whether thia proceeded from her easiness in general, or from her indifference to 
 persons, or from her despair of mending them, or from the same practice which she 
 much liked in Mr. Addison, I cannot determine; but when she saw any of the com- 
 pany warm in a wrong opinion, she was more inclined to confirm them in it than 
 oppose them. The excuse she commonly gave when her friends asked the reason, 
 was, 'That it prevented noise and saved time.'" On the Death of Afrs. Johnson 
 (Stella). ED. 
 
 + I think it but justice to say, that I believe Dr. Johnson meant to ascribe Mr. Mac- 
 (jneen's conduct to inaccuracy and enthusiasm, and did not mean any severe imputa- 
 tion against him. Bos .TELL. 
 
 [Mr. Macqueen was very sharply censured by his countrymen for his vacillating- 
 conduct at this interview, which, it was said, was opposed to all his previous decla- 
 rations. Yet in his letter to Dr. Blair, written so early as 1764, Macqueen had ex- 
 pressed himself very guardedly. " I have," he said, " a just esteem for the trans- 
 lator's genius, and believe, after the narrowest search I could make, that there is a 
 foundation in the ancient songs for every part of his work, but I am apt to believe 
 also that he hath tacked together into the poem descriptions, similes, names, &c., 
 from several detached pieces; but of this I can give no demonstration, as I met only
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 193 
 
 Having talked of the strictness with which witnesses are examined 
 in courts of justice, Dr. Johnson told us that Garrick, though accus- 
 tomed to face multitudes, when produced as a witness in Westminster 
 Hall, was so disconcerted by a new mode of public appearance, that 
 he could not understand what was asked. It was a cause where an 
 actor claimed a free benefit, that is to say, a benefit without paying 
 the expense of the house ; but the meaning of the term was disputed. 
 Garrick was asked, " Sir, have you a free benefit ?" " Yes." " Upon 
 what terms have you it ? " " Upon the terms of a free benefit." 
 He was dismissed as one from whom no information could be obtained. 
 Dr. Johnson is often too hard on our friend Mr. Garrick. When I 
 asked him why he did not mention him in the preface to his Shak- 
 speare, he said, " Garrick has been liberally paid for anything he has 
 done for Shakspeare. If I should praise him, I should much more 
 praise the nation who paid him. He has not made Shakspeare better 
 known ; * he cannot illustrate Shakspeare : so I have reasons enough 
 against mentioning him, were reasons necessary. There should be 
 
 with fragments." (Highland Society's Report.) This seems to be a just reprnsenta 
 tion of the state of the case, anil is the same conclusion arrived at by the Highland 
 Society's Committee, after an elaborate investigation. There was a great body of 
 traditional poetry relating to the Fingalians, and universally ascribed to Oasian, pre- 
 served in the Highlands, but no one poem has been found the same in title nnd tenor 
 with the poems published by Macpherson. Johnson affirmed that the Erse or Gaelic 
 never was a written language, and that there was not iu the world an Erse manuscript 
 a hundred years old. This assertion has been completely disproved. Both in Ireland 
 and the Highlands such manuscripts existed, and Macphe/son undoubtedly met with 
 such in the course of his search. The Highland Society also received some, of which 
 they published fac-similes. Martin mentions (J703) that a Life of Columbus, written 
 in the Erse language, was in the custody of a John Macneil, in Barra, and another 
 copy was in the possession of Macdonald of Benbecula. A deed of fosterage between 
 Sir Norman Macleod, and John Macken/ie, executed in the year 10-15, shows that the 
 Gaelic language was not disused in legal obligations at that period. Johnson admits 
 in his " Journey " that the Welh and Irish were cultivated tongues. Now, the Irish 
 is very nearly the same as the Gaelic ; the natives of the two countries can converse 
 freely in the same Celtic speech; and the Welsh is believed to be a cognate dialect of 
 the Celtic. ED.] 
 
 * It has been triumphantly asked, " Had not the plays of Shakspeare lain dormant 
 for many years before the appearance of Mr. Garrick ? Did ho not exhibit the most 
 excellent of them frequently for thirty years together, and render them extremely 
 popular by his own inimitable performance ?" He undoubtedly did. But Dr. John- 
 son's assertion has been misundarstood. Knowing as well as the objectors what has 
 been just stated, he must necessarily have meant tint "Mr. Garrick did not, as a critic, 
 make Shnkspeare better known ; he did not illustrate any one passage in any of his 
 plays by ncuteness of disquisition or sagacity of conjecture ; " and what had been done 
 with any degree of excellence in that way was the proper and immediate subject of 
 his preface. I may add in support of this explanation the following anecdote, 
 related to me by one of the ablest commentators on Shakspeare, who knew much of 
 Dr. Johnson : " Now I have quitted the theatre," cries Garrick, " I will sit down and 
 read Shakspeare." " Tis time you should," exclaimed Johnson, " for I much doubt if 
 you ever examined one of his plays from the fiist scene to the last." BOSWEI.L. 
 
 N
 
 194 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 reasons for it." I spoke of Mrs. Montague's very high, praises of 
 Garrick. JOHNSON : " Sir, it is fit she should say so much, and I 
 should say nothing. Reynolds is fond of her book, and I wonder at 
 it ; for neither I, nor Beauclerk, nor Mrs. Thrale, could get through 
 it." * 
 
 Last night Dr. Johnson gave us an account of the whole process 
 
 * No man has less inclination to controversy than I have, particularly with a lady. 
 But as I have claimed, and am conscious of being entitled to, credit for the strictest 
 fidelity, my respect for the public obliges me to take notice of an insinuation which 
 tends to impeach it. Mrs. Piozzi (late Mrs. Thrale), to her " Anecdotes of Dr. John- 
 son," adds the following postscript : 
 
 " Naples, February 10, 1786. 
 
 "Since the foregoing went to the press, having seen a passage from Mr. Boswell's 
 ' Tour to the Hebrides,' in which it is said that I could not get through Mrs. Mon- 
 tague's 'Essay on Shakspeare,' I do not delay a moment to declare, that, on the con- 
 trary, I have always commended it myself, and heard it commended by every one 
 else ; and few things would give me more concern than to be thought incapable of 
 tasting, or unwilling to testify my opinion of its excellence." 
 
 It is remarkable that this postscript is so expressed as not to point out the person 
 who said that Mrs. Thrale could not get through Mrs. Montague's book ; and therefore 
 I think it necessary to remind Mrs. Piozzi, that the assertion concerning her was Dr. 
 Johnson's, and not mine. The second observation that I shall make on this postscript 
 is, that ii does not deny the fact asserted, though I must acknowledge, from the praise 
 it bestows on Mrs. Montague's book, it may have bees designed to convey that 
 meaning. 
 
 What Mrs. Thrale's opinion is or was, or what she may or may not have said to 'Dr. 
 Johnson concerning Mrs. Montague's book, it is not necessary for me to inquire. It 
 is only incumbent OH me to ascertain what Dr. Johnson said to me. I shall therefore 
 confine myself to a very short state of the fact. 
 
 The unfavourable opinion of Mrs. Montague's book which Dr. Johnson is here 
 reported to have given, is known to have been that which he uniformly expressed, as 
 many of his friends well remember. So much for the authenticity of the paragraph, as 
 far as it relates to his own sentiments. The words containing the assertion to which 
 Mrs. Piozzi objects are printed from my manuscript journal, and were taken down at 
 the time. The journal was read by Dr. Johnson, who pointed out some inaccuracies, 
 which I corrected, but did not mention any inaccuracy in the paragraph in question ; 
 and what is still more material, and very flattering to me, a considerable part of my 
 journal, containing this paragraph, teas read several years ago by Mrs. Thrale herself, 
 who had it for some time in her possession, and returned it to me, without intimating 
 that Dr. Johnson had mistaken her sentiments. 
 
 When the first edition of my journal was passing through the press, it occurred to 
 me, that a peculiar delicacy was necessary to be observed in reporting the opinion of 
 one literary lady concerning the performance of another; and I had such scruples 
 on that head, that in the proof sheet I struck out the name of Mrs. Thrale from the 
 above paragraph, and two or three hundred copies of my book were actually printed 
 aad published without it; of these Sir Joshua Reynolds' s copy happened to be one. 
 But while the sheet was working off, a friend, for whose opinion I have great respect, 
 suggested that I had 110 right to deprive Mrs. Thrale of the high honour which Dr. 
 Johnson had done her, by stating her opinion along with that of Mr. Beauclerk, as 
 coinciding with, and, as it were, sanctioning his own. The observation appeared to 
 me so weighty and conclusive, that I hastened to the printing-house, and, as a piece 
 of justice, restored Mrs. Thrale to that place from which a too scrupulous delicacy 
 had excluded her. On this simple state of facts I shall make no observations what- 
 ever. BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. : IS* 
 
 of tanning, and of the nature of milk, and the various operations upon 
 it, as making 1 whey, &c. His variety of information is surprising ; 
 and it gives one much satisfaction to find such a man bestowing his 
 attention on the useful arts of life. Ulinish -was much struck -with 
 his knowledge, and said, " He is a great orator, sir ; it is music to 
 hear this man speak." A strange thought struck me, to try if he 
 knew anything of an art, or whatever it should be called, which is no 
 doubt very useful in life, bat which lies far out of the way of a phi- 
 losopher and a poet I mean the trade of a butcher. I enticed him 
 into the subject, by connecting it with the various researches into the 
 manners and customs of uncivilized nations, that have been made by 
 onr late navigators into the South Seas. I began with observing, 
 that Mr. (now Sir Joseph) Banks tells us that the art of slaxightering 
 animals was not known in Otaheite, for, instead of bleeding to death 
 their dogs (a common food with them), they strangle them. This he 
 told me himself ; and I supposed that their hogs were killed in the 
 same way. Dr. Johnson said, " This must be owing to their not 
 having knives, though they have sharp stones with which they can 
 cut a carcase in pieces tolerably." By degrees, he showed that he 
 knew something even of butchery. " Different animals," said he. 
 "are killed differently : an ox is knocked down, and a calf stunncc 
 but a sheep has its throat cut, without anything being done to stupit , 
 it. The butchers have no view to the ease of the animals, but only 
 to make them quiet for their own safety and convenience. A sheep 
 can give them little trouble. Hailes is of opinion that every animal 
 should be blooded, without having any blow given to it, because it 
 bleeds better." BOSWELL : "That would be cruel." JOIINSOX : "No, 
 sir ; there is not much pain if the jugular vein be properly cut." Pur- 
 suing the subject, he said the kennels of Southwark ran with blood 
 two or three days in the week ; that he was afraid there were slaugh- 
 ter-houses in more streets in London than one supposes (speaking with 
 a kind of horror of butchering) ; " and yet," he added, " any of us 
 would kill a cow rather than not have beef." I said we could not. 
 " Yes," said he, " any one may. The business of a butcher is a trade 
 indeed, that is to say, there is an apprenticeship served to it ; but it 
 may be learnt in a month." 
 
 I mentioned a club in London, at the Boar's Head in Eastcheap, 
 the very tavern where Falstaff and his joyous companions met ; the 
 members of which all assume Shakspeare's characters. One is Fal- 
 staff, another Prince Henry, another Bardolph, and so on. JOHNSON : 
 " Don't be of it, sir. Now that you have a name, you must be careful 
 to avoid many tilings, not bad in themselves, but which will lessen, 
 
 N 2
 
 193 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 your character.* This every man who has a name must ohserve. A 
 man who is not publicly known may live in London as he pleases, 
 without any notice being taken of him ; but it is wonderful how a 
 person of any consequence is watched. There was a member of par- 
 liament who wanted to prepare himself to speak on a question that 
 was to come on in the House; and he and I were to talk it over to- 
 gether. He did not wish it should be known that he talked with 
 me ; so he would not let me come to his house, but came to mine. 
 Some time after he had made his speech in the House, Mrs. Chol- 
 mondely, a very airy lady, told me, ' Well, you could make nothing 
 of him!' naming the gentleman; which was a proof that he was 
 watched. I had once some business to do for government, and I went 
 to Lord North's. Precaution was taken that it should not be known. 
 It was dark before I went ; yet a few days after I was told, ' Well, 
 you have been with Lord North.' That the door of the prime minis- 
 ter should he watched, is not strange ; but that a member of parlia- 
 ment should be watched, or that my door should be watched, is won- 
 derful." 
 
 We set out this morning on our way to Talisker, in Ulinish's boat, 
 having taken leave of him and his family. Mr. Donald Macqueen 
 still favoured us with his company, for which we were much obliged 
 to him. As we sailed along, Dr. Johnson got into one of his fits of 
 railing at the Scots. He owned that they had been a very learned 
 nation for a hundred years, from about looO to about 1650; but that 
 they afforded the only instance of a people among whom the arts of 
 
 * I do not see why I might not have been of this club without lessening my 
 character. But Dr. Johnson's caution against supposing one's self concealed in 
 London, may be very useful to prevent some people from doing many things, not 
 only foolish, but criminal. BOSWELL. 
 
 [Boswell was littlo selicitous of his personal dignity after Johnson's decease. The 
 great man held him in check, and repressed the tendency to jollity, which afterwards 
 became too conspicuous. Madame d'Arblay recounts some of these unseemly exhi- 
 bitions, and others are recorded. What would Johnson have said to his friend sing- 
 ing a song of his own composing, " The Grocer of London," at the Lord Mayor's feast, 
 or to his publishing an Ode to Charles Dilly, the bookseller, beginning in this strain? 
 
 " My cordial friend, 
 
 Still prompt to lend 
 
 Your cash'when I have need en't ; 
 
 We both must bear 
 
 Our load of care 
 
 At least we talk and read on't." 
 
 He once thought of taking Lord Thurlow' for his hero. "Now that Dr. Johnson is 
 gone to a better world, I bow the intellectual knee to Lord Thurlow, who, with in- 
 flexible wisdom, stops the tide of fashionable reform." (" Letter to the People of Scot- 
 land.") The Chancellor must have "growled a curse of woe" on reading this declara- 
 tion. The life and conversation of Thurlow, BoswelHsed, would have formed a cnrioua 
 record. ED.]
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 197 
 
 civil life did not advance in proportion with learning ; that they had 
 hardly any trade, any money, or any elegance, before the Union ; that 
 it was strange that, with all the advantages possessed by other na- 
 tions, they had not any of those conveniences and embellishments 
 which are the fruit of industry, till they come in contact with a 
 civilized people. " We have taught you," said he, " and we '11 do the 
 same in time to all barbarous nations : to the Cherokees, and at last 
 to the Ouran-Outangs;" laughing with as much glee as if Monboddo 
 had been present. BOSWELL : " We had wine before the Union." 
 JOHNSON : " No, sir ; you had some weak stuff, the refuse of France, 
 which would not make you drunk." BOSWELL : " I assure you, sir, 
 there was a great deal of drunkenness." JOHNSON : " No, sir ; there 
 were people who died of dropsies, which they contracted in trying to 
 get drunk." 
 
 I must here glean some of his conversation at Ulinish, which I 
 have omitted. He repeated his remark, that a man in a ship was 
 worse than a man in a jail. " The man in a jail," said he, " has more 
 room, better food, and commonly better company, and is in safety." 
 " Ay ; but," said Mr. Macqueen, " the man in a ship has the pleas- 
 ing hope of getting to shore." JOHNSON : " Sir, I am not talking of 
 a man's getting to shore ; but of a man while he is in a ship : and 
 then, I say, he is worse than a man while he is in jail. A man in 
 a jail may have the 'pleasing hope' of getting out. A man confined 
 for only a limited time, actually has it." Macleod mentioned his 
 schemes for carrying on fisheries with spirit, and that he would wish 
 to understand the construction of boats. I suggested that he might 
 go to a dock-yard and work, as Peter the Great did. JOHNSON : 
 " Nay, sir, he need not work. Peter the Great had not the sense to 
 see that the mere mechanical work may be done by any body, and 
 that there is the same art in constructing a vessel, whether the boards 
 are well or ill wrought. Sir Christopher Wren might as well have 
 served his time to a bricklayer, and first, indeed, to a brick -maker." 
 
 There is a beautiful little island in the Loch of Dunvegan, called 
 Isa.* Macleod said, he would give it to Dr. Johnson on condition of 
 his residing on it three months in the year ; nay, one month. Dr. 
 Johnson was highly amused with the fancy. I have seen him please 
 himself with little things, even with mere ideas like the present. He 
 talked a great deal of this island ; how he would build a house there, 
 how he would fortify it, how he would have cannon, how he would 
 plant, how he would sally out and take the Isle of Muck ; and then 
 
 * Or Eiiean Isa, the island of Jesus. It is fertile and supports about fifteen fami- 
 lies. There are several small islands in the neighbourhood, but Isa is the ouly one 
 that is inhabited. ED.
 
 193 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 he laughed with uncommon glee, and could hardly leave off. I have 
 seen him do so at a small matter that struck him, and was a sport to 
 no one else. Mr. Langton told me, that one night he did so while 
 the company were all grave about him ; only Garrick, in his signifi- 
 cant smart manner, darting his eyes around, exclaimed, " Very jocose, 
 to be sure !" Macleod encouraged the fancy of Dr. Johnson's be- 
 coming owner of an island ; told him that it was the practice in this 
 country to name every man by his lands ; and begged leave to drink 
 to him in that mode : " Island Isa, your health ! " Ulinish, Talisker, 
 Mr. Macqueen, and I, all joined in our different manners, while Dr. 
 Johnson bowed to each with much good humour. 
 
 We had good weather, and a fine sail this day. The shore was 
 varied with hills, and rocks, and corn-fields, and bushes, which are 
 here dignified with the name of natural icood. We landed near the 
 house of Fernilea, a farm possessed by another gentleman of the 
 name of Macleod, who, expecting our arrival, was waiting on the 
 shore, with a horse for Dr. Johnson. The rest of us walked. At 
 dinner I expressed to Macleod the joy which I had in seeing him on 
 such cordial terms with his clan. " Government," said he " has de- 
 prived us of our ancient power ; but it cannot deprive us of our 
 domestic affections. I would rather drink punch in one of their 
 houses (meaning the houses of his people), than be enabled by their 
 hardships, to have claret in my own." This should be the sentiment 
 of every chieftain. All that he can get by raising his rents, is more 
 luxury in his own house. Is it not better to share the profits of his 
 estate, to a certain degree, with his kinsmen, and thus have both 
 social intercourse and patriarchal influence ? 
 
 We had a very good ride, for about three miles, to Talisker, where 
 Colonel Macleod introduced us to his lady. We found here Mr. Donald 
 Maclean, the yound Laird of Col (nephew to Talisker), to whom I 
 delivered the letter with which I had been favoured by his uncle, 
 Professor Macleod, at Aberdeen. He was a little lively young man. 
 We found he had been a good deal in England, studying farming, 
 and was resolved to improve the value of his father's lands, without 
 oppressing his tenants, or losing the ancient Highland fashions. 
 
 Talisker is a better place than one commonly finds in Sky. It is 
 situated in a rich bottom. Before it is a wide expanse of sea, on each 
 hand of which are immense rocks ; and, at some distance in the sea, 
 there are three columnal rocks rising to sharp points. The billows 
 break with prodigious force and noise on the coast of Talisker. There 
 are here a good many well-grown trees. Talisker is an extensive 
 farm. The possessor of it has, for several generations, been the next 
 heir to Macleod, as there has been but one son always in that family.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 199 
 
 The court before the house is most injudiciously paved with the round 
 blueish-grey pebbles which are found upon the sea-shore ; so that you 
 walk as if upon cannon-balls driven into the ground. 
 
 After supper, I talked of the assiduity of the Scottish clergy, in 
 visiting and privately instructing the parishioners, and observed how 
 much in this they excelled the English clergy. Dr. Johnson would 
 not let this pass. He tried to turn it off, by saying, " There are dif- 
 ferent ways of instructing. Our clergy pray and preach." Macleod 
 and I pressed the subject, upon which he grew warm, and broke forth : 
 " I do not believe your people are better instructed. If they are, it is 
 the blind leading the blind ; for your clergy are not instructed them- 
 selves." Thinking he had gone a little too far, he checked himself, 
 and added, " When I talk of the ignorance of your clergy, I talk of 
 them as a body ; I do not mean that there are not individuals who 
 are learned," looking at Mr. Macqueen. " I suppose there are such 
 among the clergy in Muscovy. The clergy of England have produced 
 the most valuable books in support of religion, both in theory and 
 practice. What have your clergy done, since you sunk into presby- 
 terianism ? Gan you name one book of any value, on a religious sub- 
 ject, written by them ?" We were silent. " I'll help you. Forbes 
 wrote very well ; but I believe he wrote before episcopacy was quite 
 extinguished." And then pausing a little, he said, " Yes, you have 
 Wishart AGAINST Repentance.*" BOSWELL: "But, sir, we are not 
 contending for the superior learning of our clergy, but for their supe- 
 rior assiduity." He bore us down again, with thundering against 
 their ignorance, and said to me, " I see you have not been well taught, 
 for you have not charity." -He had been in some measure forced into 
 this warmth by the exulting air which I assumed ; for, when he 
 began, he said, " Since you will drive the nail !" He again thought 
 of good Mr. Macqueen, and taking him by the hand, said, " Sir, I did 
 not mean any disrespect to you." 
 
 Here I must observe, that he conquered by deserting his ground, 
 and not meeting the argument as I had put it. The assiduity of the 
 
 * This was a dexterous mode of description, for the purpose of his argument; for 
 what he alluded to was a sermon published by the learned Dr. William Wishart, for- 
 merly principal of the college at Edinburgh, to warn men against confiding in a death- 
 bed repentance, of the ineffacacy of which he entertained notions very different from 
 those of Dr. Johnson. BOSWELL. 
 
 [The allusion to Forbes is not so distinct ; perhaps Johnson referred to Dr. John 
 Forbes, of Corse, an eminent scholar and theologian, whose Histories, Theological 
 Institutions, and other works were published in two volumes felio at Amsterdam, in 
 1703. Burnet, in his Life of Bedell, alludes in terms ef high commendation to Forbes. 
 This learned divine was at one time Professor of Divinity in King's College, Aberdeen, 
 but was driven abread by the introduction of the Solemn League and Covenant. He 
 returned to die at home, April 29th, 1648. ED.]
 
 000 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Scottish clergy is certainly greater than that of the English. His 
 taking up the topic of their not having so much learning, was, though 
 ingenious, yet a fallacy in logic. It was as if there should be a dis- 
 pute whether a man's hair is well dressed, and Dr. Johnson should 
 say, " Sir, his hair cannot be well dressed, for he has a dirty shirt. 
 No man who has not clean linen has his hair well dressed." When 
 some days afterwards he read this passage, he said, " No, sir ; I did 
 not say that a man's hair could not be well dressed because he has 
 not clean linen, but because he is bald." 
 
 He used one argument against the Scottish clergy being learned, 
 which I doubt was not good. " As we believe a man dead till we 
 know that he is alive ; so we believe men ignorant till we know that 
 they arc learned." Now, our maxim in law is, to presume a man 
 jtlive till we know he is dead. However, indeed, it may be answered, 
 that we must first know he has lived ; and that we have never known 
 the learning of the Scottish clergy. Mr. Macqueen, though he was 
 of opinion that Dr. Johnson had deserted the point really in dispute, 
 was much pleased with what he said, and owned to me he thought it 
 very just ; and Mrs. Macleod was so much captivated by his eloquence, 
 that she told me, " I was a good advocate for a bad cause." 
 
 FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 24. 
 
 This was a good day. Dr. Johnson told us at breakfast that he 
 rode harder at a fox chase than any body. " The English," said he, 
 4t are the only nation who ride hard a-hunting. A Frenchman goes 
 out upon a managed horse, and capers in the field, and no more thinks 
 of leaping a hedge than of mounting a breach. Lord Powerscourt 
 laid a wager in France that he would ride a great many miles in a 
 certain short time. The French academicians set to work, and cal- 
 culated that, from the resistance of the air, it was impossible. His 
 lordship however performed it." 
 
 Our money being nearly exhausted, we sent a bill for thirty 
 pounds, drawn on Sir William Forbes and Co., to Lochbracadale, but 
 our messenger found it very difficult to procure cash for it; at length 
 however, he got us value from the master of a vessel which was to 
 cany away some emigrants. There is a great scarcity of specie in 
 Sky. Mr. Macqueen said he had the utmost difficulty to pay his ser- 
 vants' wages, or to pay for any little thing which he has to buy. The 
 rents are paid iu bills, which the drovers give. The people consume 
 a vast deal of snuff and tobacco, for which they must pay ready 
 money; and pedlars, who come about selling goods, as there is not 
 a shop in the island, carry away the cash. If there were encourage- 
 ment given to fisheries and manufactures, there might be a circu-
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 201 
 
 ktion of money introduced. I got one-and-twenty shillings in silver 
 at Povtrec, which was thought a wonderful store. 
 
 Taliskcr, Mr. Macqueen, and I, walked out, and looked at no less 
 than fifteen different waterfalls near the house, in the space of about 
 a quarter of a mile. We also saw Cuchillin's well, said to have been 
 the favourite spring of that ancient hero. I drank of it. The water 
 is admirable. On the shore are many stones full of crystallizations in 
 the heart.* 
 
 Though our obliging friend, Mr. Maclean, was but the young laird, 
 lie had the title of Col constantly given him. After dinner, he and I 
 walked to the top of Prieshwell, a very high rocky hill, from whence 
 there is a view of Barra, the Long Island, Bernera, the Loch of Dun- 
 vegan, part of Rum, part of Itasay, and a vast deal of the Isle of Sky. 
 Col, though he had come into Sky with an intention to be at Dunvegan, 
 and pass a considerable time in the island, most politely resolved first 
 to conduct us to Mull, and then to return to Sky. This was a very 
 fortunate circumstance ; for he planned an expedition for us of more 
 variety than merely going ^o Mull. He proposed we should see the 
 islands of Egg, Muck, Col, and Tyr-ri [Tiree]. In all these islands 
 lie could show us everything worth seeing ; , and in Mull he said he 
 should be as if at home, his father having lands there, and he a farm. 
 
 Dr. Johnson did not talk much to-day, but seemed intent in lis- 
 tening to the schemes of future excursion, planned by Col. Dr. Birch, 
 however, being mentioned, he said, he had more anecdotes than any 
 man. I said, Percy had a great many ; that he flowed with them like 
 one of the brooks here. JOHNSON : " If Percy is like one of the brooks 
 here, Birch was like the river Thames. Birch excelled Percy in that, 
 as much as Percy excels Goldsmith." I mentioned Lord Hailes as a 
 man of anecdote. He was not pleased with him for publishing only 
 such memorials and letters as were unfavourable for the Stuart family. 
 " If," said he, " a man fairly warns you, ' I am to give all the ill ; do 
 
 ' 
 
 * The water of Cuchillin's well was so highly valued by old Talisker that he would 
 drink no ether when at home, though the spring was at some distance, and could only 
 be reached by fording a stream. On one occasion it was found that the servant had 
 neglected to fetch the usual supply, and, though the night was dark and stormy, he was 
 ordered off to repair the omission. The faithless Donald, to save the dreary walk, 
 filled his pail at a more convenient spring: Talisker detected the imposition, and sent 
 Donald back again ; but, with marvellous condescension, ke resolved to accompany 
 him, to make sure against any further mistake. Cuchillin's well was reached and the 
 pail replenished ; and as Donald trudged behind his master, ruminating on the const- 
 quences of detection, he contrived to dip the pail in the stream, and to take home for 
 his outwitted master a liquid as unlike the well-known water of Cuchilliu's well as that 
 which had at tirst excited his suspicious ire. The blame was laid upon the well, which 
 it was concluded must have been subjected to some disturbing causes, and the adroit 
 Highlander escaped punishment. Drinking from tins memorable spring, and living 
 temperately, Talisker reached the goodly age of eighty, dying July 14th, 1798. ED.
 
 203 JOURNAL OF A TOUB 
 
 YOU find the good ;' he may : but if the object which he professes be 
 to give a view of a reign, let him tell all the truth. I would tell 
 truth of the two Georges, or of that scoundrel, King William. Gran- 
 ger's Biographical History is full of curious anecdote, but might have 
 been better done. The dog is a Whig. I do not like much to see a 
 Whig in any dress ; but I hate to see a Whig in a parson's gown."* 
 
 SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 25. 
 
 It was resolved that we should set out, in order to return to Slate, 
 to be in readiness to take a boat whenever there should be a fair wind. 
 Dr. Johnson remained in his chamber writing a letter, and it was 
 long before we could get him into motion. He did not come to break- 
 fast, but had it sent to him. When he had finished his letter, it was 
 twelve o'clock, and we should have set out at ten. When I went up 
 to him, he said to me, " Do you remember a song which begins 
 
 " Every island is a prison 
 
 Strongly guarded by the sea ; 
 Kings and princes, for that reason, 
 
 Prisoners are, as well as we." + 
 
 On retiring to his own room Johnson indulged in one of these serious retrospects 
 and self-conamunings, which were common with him at certain seasons, particularly 
 his birthday. The following is among his " Prayers and Meditations :" 
 
 "Talisker, in Sky, Sept. 24, 1773. 
 
 " On last Saturday was nay sixty-fourth birthday. I might perhaps have forgotten 
 it had not Boswell told me of it ; and, what pleased me less, told the family at Dunve- 
 vegan. The last year is added to those of which little nse has been made. I tried in 
 the summer to learn Dutch, and was interrupted by an inflammation ia my eye. I set 
 out in August on this journey to Sky. I find my memory uncertain, but hope it is 
 only by a life unmethodical and scattered. Of my body, I do not perceive that exer- 
 cise or change of air has yet either increased the strength or activity. My nights 
 are still disturbed by flatulencies. My hope is, for resolution I dare no longer call it, 
 to divide my time regularly, and to keep such a journal of my time as may give me 
 comfort on reviewing it. But' when I consider my age and the broken state of my 
 body, I have great reason to fear lest death should lay hold upon me while I am only 
 yet designing to live. But I have yet hope. 
 
 " ALMIGHTY God, most merciful Father, look down npon me with pity .' Thou hast 
 protected me in childhood and youth ; support me, Lord, in my declining years. Pre- 
 serve me from the dangers of sinful presumption. Give me, if it be best for me, 
 stability of purposes and tranquillity of mind. Let the year which I have now begun 
 be spent to thy glory and to the furtherance of my salvation. Take not from me thy 
 Holy Spirit, but as death approaches prepare me to appear joyfully in thy presence, 
 for the sake of Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen." ED. 
 
 + The song begins differently, thus 
 
 " Welcome, welcome, brother debtor, 
 
 To this poor but merry place, 
 Where no bailiff, dun, nor setter, 
 
 Dares to show his frightful face." 
 
 The lines quoted by Johnson form part of the third stanza. In a copy of " A Select 
 Collection of English Songs," in three volumes, published by Johnson, St. Paul's
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 203 
 
 I suppose he had been thinking of our confined situation. He would 
 fain have gone in a boat from hence, instead of riding back to Slate. 
 A scheme for it was proposed. He said, " We'll not be driven tamely 
 from it ; " but it proved impracticable. 
 
 We took leave of Macleod and Talisker, from whom we parted 
 with regret. Talisker, having been bred to physic, had a tincture of 
 scholarship in his conversation, which pleased Dr. Johnson, and he 
 had some very good books ; and being a colonel in the Dutch service, 
 he and his lady, in consequence of having lived abroad, had introduced 
 the ease and politeness of the continent into this rude region.* 
 
 Young Col was now our leader. Mr. 
 Macqueen was to accompany us half a 
 day more. We stopped at a little hut, 
 where we saw an old woman grinding 
 with the quern, the ancient Highland 
 instrument which, it is said, was used 
 by the Romans, but which, being very 
 slow in its operation, is almost entirely 
 gone into disuse. 
 
 The walls of the cottages in Sky, 
 instead of being one compacted mass of 
 stones, are often formed by two exterior 
 surfaces of stone, filled up with earth 
 in the middle, which makes them very 
 warm. The roof is generally bad. They are thatched, sometimes with 
 straw, sometimes with heath, sometimes with fern. The thatch is se- 
 cured by ropes of straw, or of heath ; and, to fix the ropes, there is a 
 stone tied to the end of each. These stones hang round the bottom of 
 the roof, and make it look like a lady's hair in papers ; but I should 
 think that, when there is wind, they would come down, and knock 
 people on the head. 
 
 We dined at the inn at Sconser, where I had the pleasure to find 
 a letter from my wife. Here we parted from our learned companion, 
 Mr. Donald Macqueen. Dr. Johnson took leave of him very affec- 
 tionately, saying, " Dear sir, do not forget me !" We settled that he 
 should write an account of the Isle of Sky, which Dr. Johnson pro- 
 mised to revise. He said, Mr. Macqueen should tell all that he could ; 
 
 Churchyard, 1783, which belonged to the poet Burns and is now in our possession, 
 Burns has written at the commencement of the above song, " By Mr. Coffey." ED. 
 
 * The Scotch regiments in the Dutch service were formed out of some inde- 
 pendent companies sent over either in the reign of Elizabeth or James VI. The 
 sfflcers were all Scotch, who were obliged to take oaths to our Government, and to 
 qualify in presence of our ambassador at the Hague. " Pennant's Second Tour.' 
 Parti. ED. 
 
 TUB QUERS.
 
 204 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 distinguishing what he himself knew, what was traditional, and what 
 conjectural.* 
 
 We sent our horses round a point of land, that we might shun 
 some very bad road, and resolved to go forward by sea. It was seven 
 o'clock when we got into our boat. We had many showers, and it 
 soon grew pretty dark. Dr. Johnson sat silent and patient. Once ho 
 said, as he looked on the black coast of Sky, black, as being composed 
 of rocks seen in the dusk, " This is very solemn." Our boatmen 
 were rude singers, and seemed stf like wild Indians, that a very little 
 imagination was necessary to give one an impression of being upon 
 an American river. We landed at Strolirnus, from whence we got a 
 guide to walk before us, for two miles, to Corrichatachin. Not being 
 able to procure a horse for our baggage, I took one portmanteau before 
 me, and Joseph another. We had but a single star to light us on our 
 way. It was about eleven when we arrived. We were most hospi- 
 tably received by the master and mistress, who were just going to 
 bed, but, with unaffected ready kindness, made a good fire, and at 
 twelve o'clock at night had supper on the table. 
 
 James Macdonald, of Knockow, Kingsburgh's brother, whom we 
 had seen at Kingsburgh, was there. He showed me a bond granted 
 by the late Sir James Macdonald, to old Kingsburgh, the preamble of 
 which does so much honour to the feelings of that much-lamented 
 gentleman, that I thought it worth transcribing. It was as follows : 
 
 " I, Sir James Macdonald, of Macdonald, Baronet, now, after arriving at my 
 perfect age, from the friendship I bear to Alexander Macdonald of Kingsburgh, and 
 in return for the long and faithful services done and performed by him to iny deceased 
 
 * Such a history would have been extremely interesting and valuable. All that Mr. 
 - Mncqueen seems to have collected he communicated to Pennant, and the principal 
 portion is a short "Dissertation on the Government of the People in the Western 
 Isles," written in 1774. Mr. Maeqneen, or more correctly Dr. Macqueen, for he had 
 received the degree of D.D., though he did not use it in Skye, was an eminent member of 
 the Scottish Church, and is honourably mentioned by Dr. Erskine in his " Sketches 
 of Church History." He died suddenly at Rasay, in January, 1785, while on a visit 
 to his cousin the Laird of Rasay. The funeral of the learned and estimable pastor ia 
 still remembered. Rasay gave a liberal " entertainment" previous to the " lifting ef 
 the body," there was another entertainment at Portree, and a third at Kilmuir, the 
 place of interment. The whole parish of Kilmuir assembled to receive and accompany 
 the remains of their minister from Portree. There was something very striking and 
 solemn in these large Highland funerals ; in the appearance of the vast procession 
 winding among the hills or stretching along the shore ; and in the strains of the 
 bagpipe, as the " Lament" was slowly and mournfully pealed forth. The misfortune 
 was that they were often carried to excess, and that by their expense they burdened 
 families for years afterwards. Scenes of riot and disorder sometimes occurred, and so 
 late as 1817, at the funeral of a chief, several individuals, on their return from the 
 ghostly revels, perished amidst the snow. The better taste and feeling of modern 
 times has greatly abated this extravagance ; but the whole population of a glen is still 
 ready to pour forth to honour piety, or public service,or ancient descent, in its passage 
 to the tomb. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 205 
 
 
 
 father, and to myself during ir.y minority, whca he was one of my tutors and curators; 
 being resolved, DOW that the said Alexander Alacdonald is advanced in years, to cou- 
 tribute my endeavours for making his old age placid and comfortable " 
 
 Therefore lie grants him an annuity of fifty pounds sterling. 
 
 Dr. Johnson went to bed soon. When one bowl of punch wa? 
 finished, I rose, and was near the door, in my way up stairs to bedi 
 but Corrichatachin said, it was the first time Col had been in hs 
 house, and he should have his bowl ; and would not I join in drinkog 
 it ? The heartiness of my honest landlord, and the desire of d>ing 
 social honour to our very obliging conductor, induced me to sit lowii 
 again. Col's bowl was finished ; and by that time we wcrJ well 
 warmed. A third bowl was soon made, and that too was fnishcd. 
 We were cordial and merry to a high degree ; but of what passed I 
 have no recollection, with any accuracy. I remember callg Corri- 
 chatachin by the familiar appellation of Com, which his fiends do.* 
 A fourth bowl was made, by which time Col and young Mackinnon, 
 Corrichatachin's son, slipped away to bed. I continued a little with 
 Corri and Knockow ; but at last I left them. It was near five in the 
 morning when I got to bed. 
 
 SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 26. 
 
 I awaked at noon, with a severe headache. I was much vexed 
 that I should have been guilty of such a riot, and afraid of a reproof 
 from Dr. Johnson. I thought it very inconsistent with that conduct 
 which I ought to maintain while the companion of the " Rambler." 
 About one, he came into .my room, and accosted me, " What, drunk 
 yet ?" His tone of voice was not that of severe upbraiding ; so I was 
 relieved a little. " Sir," said I, " they kept me up." He answered, 
 " No, you kept them up, you drunken dog." This he said with good- 
 humoured English pleasantry. Soon afterwards, Corrichatachin, Col, 
 and other friends assembled round my bed. Corri had a brandy -bottle 
 and glass with him, and insisted I should take a dram. "Ay," said 
 Dr. Johnson, " fill him drunk again. Do it in the morning, that we 
 may laugh at him all-day. It is a poor thing for a fellow to get drunk 
 at night, and skulk to bed, and let his friends have no sport." Finding 
 him thus jocular, I became quite easy ; and when I offered to get up, 
 he very good-naturedly said, " You need be in no such hurry now."f 
 
 * This is now the universal practice ; Corrichatachin has, both in speech and 
 writing, been commuted into Corry. ED. 
 
 -f My ingenuously relating this occasional instance of intemperance has, I find, been 
 made the subject both of serious criticism and ludicrous banter. With the banterers 
 I shall not trouble myself, but I wonder that t'.-.oso who pretend to the appellation of 
 serious critics should not have had sagacity enough to perceive that here, as in every
 
 205 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 
 
 I took my host's advice, and drank some brandy, which I found an 
 effectual cure for my headache. When I rose, I went into Dr. John- 
 son's room, and taking up Mrs. Mackinnon's Prayer-book, I opened it 
 , at the twentieth Sunday after Trinity, in the epistle for which I read, 
 \" And be not drunk with wine, wherein there is excess." Some would 
 \ave taken this as a divine interposition. 
 
 Mrs. Mackinnon told us at dinner that old Kingsburgh, her father, 
 examined at Mugstot, by General Campbell, as to the particu- 
 larkof the dress of the person who had come to his house in woman's 
 clotcpg, along with Miss Flora Macdonald, as the general had received 
 intelligence of that disguise. The particulars were taken down in 
 writing that it might be seen how far they agreed with the dress of 
 the Irkh girl who went with Miss Flora from the Long Island. 
 Kingsbu'igh, she said, had but one song, which he always sung when 
 he was nurry over a glass. She dictated the words to me, which are 
 foolish enough : 
 
 Green sleeves and pudding pies, 
 
 Tell me where my mistress lies, 
 
 And I'll be with her before she rise, 
 
 Piddle and a' together. 
 
 May our affairs abroad succeed, 
 And may our king come home with speed, 
 And all pretenders shake for dread, 
 And let his health go round. 
 
 , To all our injured friends in need, 
 
 This side and beyond the Tweed ! 
 Let all pretenders shake for dread,. 
 And let his health go round. 
 Green sleeves, &c. 
 
 While the examination was going on, the present Talisker, who 
 was there as one of Macleod's militia, could not resist the pleasantry 
 of asking Kingsburgh, in allusion to his only song, " Had she green 
 
 other port of the present work, my principal object was to delineate Dr. Johnson's 
 manners and character. In justice to him I would not omit an anecdote which, 
 though in some degree to my own disadvantage, exhibits 'in so strong a light the in- 
 dulgence and good-humour with which he could treat those excesses in his friends of 
 which he highly disapproved. In some other instances, the critics have been equally 
 wrong as to the true motive of my recording particulars, the objections to which I saw 
 as clearly as they. But it would be an endless task for an author to point out upon 
 every occasion the precise object he has in view. Contenting himself with the appro- 
 bation of readers of discernment and taste, he ought not to complain that some aro 
 found who cannot or will not understand him. BOSWELL. 
 
 [Among the banterers on this occasion was Peter Pindar (Dr. Wolcot), who gave 
 a very humourous travesty of Boswell's confession, and which concludes with this 
 couplet 
 
 " Alas ! says I, the sinner that I am ; 
 
 And having made my speech, I took a dram." ED.]
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 207 
 
 sleeves?" Kingsburgh gave him no answer. Lady Margaret Mac- 
 donald was very angry at Talisker for joking on such a serious occa- 
 sion, as Kingsburgh was really in danger of his life. Mrs. Mackin- 
 non added that Lady Margaret was quite adored in Sky. That when 
 she travelled through the island, the people ran in crowds before her, 
 and took the stones off the road, lest her horse should stumble and 
 she be hurt.* Her husband, Sir Alexander, is also remembered with 
 great regard. We were told that every -week a hogshead of claret 
 was drunk at his table, f 
 
 * Lady Margaret, in one of her journeys from Skye, had crossed the Kyle, attended 
 by her servants, and escorted by a number of the Skye gentlemen on horseback. When 
 they reached the summit of one of the mountains of the mainland, the cavalcade dis- 
 mounted to rest near a summer shealing, from which a comely young wife came out 
 to offer the party such refreshment as her temporary abode afforded, being only curds 
 and cream. The toil of the ascent and the heat of the day made the simple food highly 
 palatable, and Lady Margaret desired that her entertainer should approach to receive 
 her thanks personally for her hospitality. The woman, however, understood no English, 
 and Lady Margaret, who was struck with her geod looks, said t* one of her train, " Tell 
 her that I thank her for her entertainment, and that I have not seen such a pretty 
 face for a long time." " Does her ladyship say so ?" was the reply, " then it must have 
 been a long time since she looked into her own glass (mirror)." ED. 
 
 t Sir Alexander Macdonald died at Bemera, in Olenelg, November 23rd, 1746. 
 Kingsburgh had been chamberlain or factor of the Macdonald estate for twenty-eight 
 years previous to the Rebellion, and great exertions were made to obtain his release 
 from confinement in Edinburgh Castle, both on account of his own worth, and that 
 he might continue his management of the property after Sir Alexander's death. 
 Duncan Forbes, of Cnlloden, the Lord President, used all his influence for this 
 purpose, but Kingsburgh was not liberated until the general amnesty in July,' 1747. 
 He obtained a whole year's lodging, as was said at the time, for affording a lodging for 
 one night ! The circumstance that Lady Macdonald had also been concerned with 
 Kingsburgh in the escape of the Prince no doubt weakened the force of the applica- 
 tions in his favour. " All the fine ladies," said Duncan Forbes, " except one or 
 two, became passionately fond of the young adventurer, and used all their arts and 
 industry for him in the most intemperate manner." Lady Margaret was of a Jacobite 
 family one of the beautiful daughters of the Countess of Eglinton and was secretly 
 attached to the cause of Charles Edward, though Sir Alexander was in arms against 
 him. In a letter to President Forbes the lady denied having seen the Pretender, but 
 she must have repented having put on " the fragile armour of untruth," for the same 
 packet contained a letter from her husband, in which the facts of the case were cor- 
 ectly given ! Charles Edward was then in a state of wretched destitution, and few 
 could have resisted the temptation to aid a prince flying from misery and danger. 
 Lady Margaret described (we have no doubt truly) the Jacobitism of honest Kingsburgh 
 as an accidental circumstance, " proceeding rather from an excess of good nature and 
 
 compassion upon a miserable person, than from disloyalty or rebellious principles." 
 
 (" CullodenPapers," p. 291.) Ithas been related that while Kingaburgh was a prisoner at 
 Fort Augustus, previous to his being conveyed to Edinburgh, he was asked if he would 
 know the Pretender's head ; upon which he answered, " that he would know it if it 
 vrere on his shoulders, but not otherwise." This refers to a romantic incident con- 
 nected with the pursuit after Charles. A young man, Roderick Mackenzie, who bore 
 a strong resemblance to the Prince, and had been in his army, whilst travelling in 
 Glenmoriston, was beset by a military party ; and finding escape impossible, with a 
 view to relax the vigilance of the Prince's pursuers, he exclaimed, athisfaK, "You
 
 08 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 This was another day of wind and rain ; but good cheer and good 
 society helped to beguile the time. I felt myself comfortable enough 
 in the afternoon. I then thought that my last night's riot was no 
 more than such a social excess as may happen without much moral 
 blame ; and recollected that some physicians maintained, that a fever 
 produced by it was, upon the whole, good for health : so different are 
 our reflections on the same subject, at different periods ; and such the 
 excuses with which we palliate what we know to be wrong. 
 
 MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 27. 
 
 Mr. Donald Macleod, our original guide, who had parted from us 
 at Dunvegan, joined us again to-day. The weather was still so bad 
 that we could not travel. I found a closet here with a good many 
 books, beside those that were lying about. Dr. Johnson told me he 
 found a library in his room at Talisker ; and observed, that it was 
 one of the remarkable things of Sky, that there were so many books 
 in it. 
 
 Though we had here great abundance of provisions, it is re- 
 markable that Corrichatachin has literally no garden not even a 
 turnip, a carrot, or a cabbage. After dinner we talked of the crooked 
 spade used in Sky, already described, and they maintained that it 
 was better than the usual garden spade, and that there was an art in 
 tossing it, by which those who were accustomed to it could work very 
 easily with it. " Nay," said Dr. Johnson, " it may be useful in land 
 where there are many stones to raise; but it certainly is not a good 
 instrument for digging good land. A man may toss it, to be sure ; 
 but he will toss a light spade much better : its weight makes it an 
 incumbrance. A man may dig any land with it ; but he has no occa- 
 sion for such a weight in digging good land.* You may take a field- 
 piece to shoot sparrows ; but all the sparrows you can bring home 
 will not be worth the charge." He was quite social and easy amongst 
 them ; and, though he drank no fermented liquor, toasted Highland 
 
 have killed your Prince !" The soldiers cut off his head and carried it to Fort 
 Augustus. The people of Glenmoriston, who received the tale from their fathers, say 
 this chivalrous youth was a travelling merchant, who made stated journeys to the 
 Highlands, and was well known. The body of Mackenzie was huried by the road- 
 side, and the little green mound, marked by a stone at each extremity, is regarded 
 with peculiar affection and veneration. ED. 
 
 * The crooked spade, or cas-chrom,\a certainly a sufficiently awkward-looking imple- 
 ment, but it is well adapted to its own purposes. Jehnson's sagacity made him dis- 
 cover the advantage of such a powerful lever in stony ground ; but he ought to hav 3 
 been told that with it a man can turn twice as much ground as he could do with tlis 
 common square spade in the same time. The ground, to be sure, will not be so well 
 turned as it would be with the square spade; but it will be better turned than i; 
 would be by the ordinary horse plough. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 20 
 
 beauties with great readiness. His conviviality engaged them so 
 much, that they seemed eager to show their attention to him, and 
 vied with each other in crying out, with a strong Celtic pronunciation, 
 " Toctor Shonson, Toctor Shonson, your health ! " 
 
 This evening one of our married ladies, a lively pretty little wo- 
 man, good-humouredly sat down iipon Dr. Johnson's knee, and being 
 encouraged by some of the company, put her hands round his neck, 
 and kissed him. "Do it again," said he, " and let us see who will 
 tire first." He kept her on his knee some time, while he and she 
 drank tea.* He was now like a buck indeed. All the company were 
 much entertained to find him so easy and pleasant. To me it was 
 highly comic, to see the grave philosopher the " Rambler " toying 
 with a Highland beauty ! But what could he do ? He must have 
 been surly, and weak too, had he not behaved as he did. He would 
 have been laughed at, and not more respected, and less loved. 
 
 He read to-night to himself, as he sat in company, a great deal 
 of my " Journal," and said to me, " The more I read of this, I think 
 the more highly of you." The gentlemen sat a long time at their 
 punch, after he and I had retired to our chambers. The manner in 
 which they were attended struck me as singular. The bell being 
 broken, a smart lad lay on a table in the corner of the room, ready to 
 spring up and bring the kettle, whenever it was wanted. They con- 
 tinued drinking and singing Erse songs till near five in the morning, 
 when they all came into my room, where some of them had beds. 
 Unluckily for me, they found a bottle of punch in a coi-ner, which 
 they drank; and Corrichatachin went for another, which they also 
 drank. They made many apologies for disturbing me. I told them, 
 that having been kept awake by their mirth, I had once thoughts of 
 getting up, and joining them again. Honest Corrichatachin said, " To 
 have had you done so, I would have given a cow." 
 
 TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 28. 
 
 The weather was worse than yesterday. I felt as if imprisoned. 
 Dr. Johnson said, it was irksome to be detained thus ; yet he seemed 
 to have less uneasiness, or more patience, than I had. What made 
 our situation worse here was, that we had no rooms that we could 
 command ; for the good people had no notion that a man could have 
 any occasion but for a mere sleeping-place; so, during the day, the bed- 
 chambers were common to all the house. Servants ate in Dr. John- 
 son's ; and mine was a general rendezvous of all under the roof, chil- 
 
 * This Highland lady, " BO buxom, blithe and debonnatr," was daughter of the elder 
 and sister of the younger Mrs. Mackinnon. She was the wife of a medical gentleman, 
 Dr. Macdonald, father of thB present Laird of Innis-drynich , in Argyleshire. ED. 
 
 O
 
 210 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 dren and dogs not excepted. As the gentlemen occupied the parlour, 
 the ladies had no place to sit in, during the day, but Dr. Johnson's 
 room. I had always some quiet time for writing in it, before he was 
 up ; and, by degrees, I accustomed the ladies to let me sit in it after 
 breakfast, at my " Journal," without minding me. 
 
 Dr. Johnson was this morning for going to see as many islands 
 as we could; not recollecting the uncertainty of the season, which 
 might detain us in one place for many weeks. He said to me, " I 
 have more the spirit of adventure than you." For my part, I was 
 anxious to get to Mull, from whence we might almost any day reach 
 the main-land. 
 
 Dr. Johnson mentioned, that the few ancient Irish gentlemen yet 
 remaining have the highest pride of family ; that Mr. Sandford, a 
 friend of his, whose mother was Irish, told him, that O'Hara (who 
 was true Irish, both by father and mother) and he, and Mr. Ponsonby, 
 son to the Earl of Besborough, the greatest man of the three, but of 
 an English family, went to see one of those ancient Irish, and that he 
 distinguished them thus : " O'Hara, you are welcome ! Mr. Sandford, 
 your mother's son is welcome ! Mr. Ponsonby, you may sit down !" 
 
 He talked both of threshing and thatching. He said, it was very 
 difficult to determine how to agree with a thresher. "If you pay him 
 by the day's wages, he will thresh no more than he pleases ; though, 
 to be sure, the negligence of a thresher is more easily detected than 
 that of most labourers, because he must always make a sound while 
 he works. If you pay him by the piece, by the quantity of grain 
 which he produces, he will thresh only while the grain comes freely, 
 and, though he leaves a good deal in the ear, it is not worth while to 
 thresh the straw over again ; nor can you fix him to do it sufficiently, 
 because it is so difficult to prove how much less a man threshes than 
 he ought to do. Here then is a dilemma : but, for my part, I would 
 engage him by the day ; I would rather trust his idleness than his 
 fraud." He said, a roof thatched with Lincolnshire reeds would last 
 seventy years, as he was informed when in that county ; and that he 
 told this in London to a great thatcher, who said, he believed it might 
 be true. Such are the pains that Dr. Johnson takes to get the best 
 information on every subject. 
 
 He proceeded : " It is difficult for a farmer in England to find 
 day-labourers, because the lowest manufacturers can always get more 
 than a day-labourer. It is of no consequence how high the wages of 
 manufacturers are ; but it would be of very bad consequence to raise 
 the wages of those who procure the immediate necessaries of life, for 
 that would raise the price of provisions. Here, then, is a problem for 
 politicians. It is not reasonable that the most useful body of men
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 211 
 
 should be the worst paid ; yet it does not appear how it can be or- 
 dered otherwise. It were to be wished, that a mode for its being 
 otherwise were found out. In the meantime, it is better to give 
 temporary assistance by charitable contributions to poor labourers, at 
 times when provisions are high, than to raise their wages ; because, if 
 wages are once raised, they will never get down again." 
 
 Happily the weather cleared up between one and two o'clock, and 
 we got ready to depart ; but our kind host and hostess would not let 
 us go without taking a snatch, as they called it ; which was in truth a 
 very good dinner. While the punch went round, Dr. Johnson kept 
 a close whispering conference with Mrs. Mackinnon, which, however, 
 was loud enough to let us hear that the subject of it was the par- 
 ticulars of Prince Charles's escape. The company were entertained 
 and pleased to observe it. Upon that subject, there was something 
 congenial between the soul of Dr. Samuel Johnson, and that of an 
 Isle of Sky farmer's wife. It is curious to see people, how far 
 soever removed from each other in the general system of their livee, 
 come close together on a particular point which is common to eaclu 
 We were merry with Corrichatachin, on Dr. Johnson's whispering 
 with his wife. She, perceiving this, humorously cried, " I am in love 
 with him. What is it to live and not to love ? " Upon her saying 
 something, which I did not hear, or cannot recollect, he seized her 
 hand eagerly, and kissed it. 
 
 As we were going, the Scottish phrase of " honest man ! " which 
 is an expression of kindness and regard, was again and again applied 
 by the company to Dr. Johnson. I was also treated with much 
 civility ; and I must take some merit from my assiduous attention to 
 him, and from my contriving that he shall be easy wherever he goes, 
 that he shall not be asked twice to eat or drink any thing, (which 
 always disgusts him) that he shall be provided with water at hi* 
 meals, and many such little things, which if not attended to, would 
 fret him. I also may be allowed to claim some merit in leading the 
 converstion : I do not mean leading, as in an orchestra, by playing 
 the first fiddle ; but leading as one does in examining a witness 
 starting topics and making him pursue them. He appears to me 
 like a great mill, in which a subject is thrown to be ground. It re- 
 quires, indeed, fertile minds to furnish materials for this mill. I 
 regret whenever I see it unemployed ; but sometimes I feel myself 
 quite barren, and having nothing to throw in. I know not if this 
 mill be a good figure; though Pope makes his mind a mill for 
 turning verses.* 
 
 * In this very characteristic passage Boswell appears intent only on making a " goofl 
 figure" as a writer, wholly uncenscious of the pitiable figure he makes as a man,
 
 213 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 We set out about four. Young Corrichatachin went with. us. We 
 had a fine evening, and arrived in good time at Ostig, the residence 
 of Mr. Martin Macpherson, minister of Slate. It is a pretty good 
 house, built by his father, upon a farm near the church. We were 
 received here with much kindness by Mr. and Mrs. Macpherson, and 
 his sister, Miss Macpherson, who pleased Dr. Johnson much, by 
 singing Erse songs and playing on the guitar. He afterwards sent 
 her a present of his " Rasselas." In his bed-chamber was a press 
 stored with books Greek, Latin, French, and English most of 
 which had belonged to the father of our host, the learned Dr. Mac- 
 pherson; who, though his " Dissertations" have been mentioned in a 
 former page as unsatisfactory, was a man of distinguished talents. 
 Dr. Johnson looked at a Latin paraphrase of the song of Moses, 
 written by him and published in the " Scots Magazine" for 1747, and 
 said : " It does him honour ; he has a great deal of Latin, and good 
 Latin." Dr. Macpherson published also in the same magazine, June 
 1739, an original Latin ode, which he wrote from the Isle of Barra, 
 where he was minister for some years. It is very poetical, and 
 exhibits a striking proof how much all things depend upon com- 
 parison ; for Barra, it seems, appeared to him so much worse than 
 Sky his natale solum that he languished for its "blessed moun- 
 tains," and thought himself buried alive amongst barbarians where 
 he was. My readers will probably not be displeased to have a 
 specimen of this ode : 
 
 " Ilei milii ! quantos patior dolores, 
 Dum procul specto juga ter beata ; 
 Dum ferje Barrse steriles arenas 
 Solus oberro. 
 
 " Ingemo, indignor, crucior, quod inter 
 Barbaras Thulen lateam colentes; 
 Torpeo languens, morior sepultus, 
 Carcere cceco." 
 
 After wishing for wings to fly over to his dear country, which, 
 was in his view, from what he calls Thule, as being the most western 
 isle of Scotland, except St. Kilda ; after describing the pleasures of 
 society and the miseries of solitude, he at last, with becoming pro- 
 priety, has recourse to the only sure relief of thinking men sursum 
 corda the hope of a better world, and disposes his mind to resig- 
 nation : 
 
 while condescending to such servile offices. This fiunkeyism (as Mr. Carlyle would 
 term it), in one so proud of his station and ancient descent, justifies Macaulaj's 
 remark, that Boswell used many people ill, but assuredly he used nobody so ill as 
 himself. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 213 
 
 " Interim fiat tua, rex, voluntas: 
 Erigor sursum quoties subit spes 
 Certa raigrandi Solymam supernam, 
 Numinis aulam." 
 
 He concludes in a noble strain of orthodox piety : 
 
 " Vita turn demum vocitanda vita est. 
 Turn licet gratos socios habere, 
 Seraphim et sanctos TRIADEM verendam 
 Concelebrantes." * 
 
 "WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29. 
 
 After a very good sleep, I rose more refreshed than I had been 
 for some nights. We were now at but a little distance from the 
 shore, and saw the sea from the windows, which made our voyage 
 seem nearer. Mr. Macpherson's manners and address pleased us 
 much. He appeared to be a man of such intelligence and taste as to 
 be sensible of the extraordinary powers of his illustrious guest. He 
 said to me : " Dr. Johnson is an honour to mankind ; and, if the 
 expression may be used, is an honour to religion." 
 
 Col, who had gone yesterday to pay a visit at Camuscross, joined 
 us this morning at breakfast. Some other gentlemen also came to 
 enjoy the entertainment of Dr. Johnson's conversation. The day was 
 windy and rainy, so that we had just seized a happy interval for our 
 journey last night. We had good entertainment here, better accom- 
 modation than at Corrichatachin, and time enough to ourselves. 
 The hours slipped along imperceptibly. We talked of Shenstone. 
 Dr. Johnson said he was a good layer-out of land, but would not 
 allow him to approach excellence as a poet. He said, he believed he 
 had tried to read all his Love Pastorals, but did not get through 
 them. I repeated the stanza : 
 
 " She gazed as I 'slowly withdrew ; 
 
 My path I could hardly discern ; 
 So sweetly she bade me adieu, 
 
 I thought that she bade ine return." 
 
 He said : " That seems to be pretty." I observed that Shenstone, 
 from his short maxims in prose, appeared to have some power of 
 thinking; but Dr. Johnson would not allow him that merit. He 
 
 * Dr. Macpherson died at Ostip, April 5, 1765, aged fifty-two. His " Dissertations' 
 were not published till 1768. The main object of the learned author was to prove tha 
 the Picta and Scots were the same people, the genuine posterity of the Caledonians 
 and that the Pictish language was the same as the modern Gaelic. The question (which 
 formerly engaged most of the Scottish antiquaries) will be found popularly and ably 
 treated by Sir Walter Scott, in the " Quarterly Review " for Jnly, 1829. Dr. Mac 
 pherson's son, the Minister of Sleat, died in 1812. ED.
 
 8M JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 agreed, however, with Shenstone, that it was wrong in the brother 
 of one of his correspondents to burn his letters ; " for," said he, 
 " Shenstone was a man whose correspondence was an honour." He 
 was this afternoon full of critical severity, and dealt about his cen- 
 sures on all sides. He said Hammond's " Love Elegies" were poor 
 things. He spoke contemptuously of our lively and elegant, though 
 too licentious, lyric bard, Hanbury Williams, and said, " He had no 
 fame, but from, boys who drank with him." 
 
 While he was in this mood, I was unfortunate enough, simply 
 perhaps, but I could not help thinking, undeservedly, to come within 
 " the whiff and wind of his fell sword." I asked him, if he had ever 
 been accustomed to wear a night-cap. He said, " No." I asked, if it 
 was best not to wear one. JOHNSON : " Sir, I had this custom by 
 chance, and perhaps no man shall ever know whether it is best to 
 sleep with or without a night-cap." Soon afterwards, he was laugh- 
 ing at some deficiency in the Highlands, and said, " One might as 
 well go without shoes and stockings." Thinking to have a little hit 
 at his own deficiency, I ventured to add, " Or without a night-cap, 
 sir." But I had better have been silent; for he retorted directly. 
 " I do not see the connection there (laughing). Nobody before was 
 ever foolish enough to ask whether it was best to wear a night-cap or 
 not. This comes of being a little wrong-headed." He carried the 
 company along with him ; and yet the truth is, that if he had always 
 worn a night-cap, as is the common practice, and found the High- 
 landers did not wear one, he would have wondered at their barbarity; 
 so that my hit was fair enough. 
 
 THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 30. 
 
 There was as great a storm of wind and rain as I have almost 
 ever seen, which necessarily confined us to the house ; but we were 
 fully compensated by Dr. Johnson's conversation. He said, he did 
 not grudge Burke's being the first man in the Hpuse of Commons, for 
 he was the first man everywhere ; but he grudged that a fellow who 
 makes no figure in company, and has a mind as narrow as the neck 
 of a vinegar cruet, should make a figure in the House of Commons, 
 merely by having the knowledge of a few forms, and being furnished 
 Tvith a little occasional information.* lie told us, the first time he 
 saw Dr. Young was at the house of Mr. Richardson, the author of 
 " Clarissa." He was sent for, that the doctor might read to him his 
 " Conjectures on Original Composition," which he did, and Dr. John- 
 
 * He did not mention the name of any particular person ; but those who are con- 
 raant with the political world will probably recollect more persons than one to whom 
 tbia observation may be applied. BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. SIS 
 
 son made his remarks ; and he was surprised to find Young receive 
 as novelties, what he thought very common maxims. He said, he 
 believed Young was not a great scholar, nor had studied regularly 
 the art of writing ; that there were very fine things in his " Night 
 Thoughts," though you could not find twenty lines together without 
 some extravagance. He repeated two passages from his " Love of 
 Fame," the characters of Brunetta and Stella, which he praised 
 highly.* He said Young pressed him much to come to Welwyn. 
 He always intended it, but never went. He was sorry when Young 
 died. The cause of quarrel between Young and his son, he told us, 
 was, that his son insisted Young should turn away a clergyman's 
 widow, who lived with him, and who, having acquired great influence 
 over the father, was saucy to the son. Dr. Johnson said, she could 
 not conceal her resentment at him for saying to Young that "An old 
 man should not resign himself to the management of any body." I 
 asked him if there was any improper connection between them.' 
 " No, sir, no more than between two statues. He was past fourscore, 
 and she a very coarse woman. She read to him, and I suppose made 
 his coffee, and frothed his chocolate, and did such things as an old 
 man wishes to have done for him." 
 
 Dr. Doddridge being mentioned, he observed that " he was 
 author of one of the finest epigrams in the English language. It is 
 in Orion's Life of him. The subject is his family motto, Dum tivi- 
 
 * "Brunetta 's wise in actions great and rare ; 
 But scorns on trifles to bestow her care. 
 Thus every hour Brunetta is to blame, 
 Because the occasion is beneath her aim. 
 Think nought a trifle, though it small appear ; 
 Small sands the mountain, moments make the year; 
 And trifles life. Your cares to trifles give, 
 Or you may die before you truly live.' SATIRE VI. 
 
 " Some ladies' judgment in their features lies, 
 
 And all their genius sparkles from their eyes. 
 
 But, hold ! she cries, lampooner have a care : 
 
 Must I want common-sense because I'm fair ! 
 
 Oh no; see Stella! her eyes shine as bright 
 
 As if her tongue was never in the right ; 
 
 And yet what real learning, judgment, fire : 
 
 She seems inspired, and can herself inspire." SATIRE V. 
 
 The first of these quotations embodies a sentiment that was a favourite with 
 Johnson, and which he has expressed with peculiar force and beauty in his "Journey 
 to the Hebrides." " It must be remembered that life consists not of a series of illus- 
 trious actions or elegant enjoyments ; the greater part of oar time passes in com- 
 pliance with necessities, in the performance of daily duties, in the removal of small 
 inconveniencies, in the procurement of petty pleasures ; and we are well or ill at ease, 
 as the main stream of life glides on smoothly, or is ruffled by small obstacles and 
 frequent interruption. The true state of every nation is the state of common life." En.
 
 216 JOUENAL OF A TOUK 
 
 mt{s, vivamus ; "which, in its primary signification, is, to be sure, not 
 very suitable to a Christian divine ; but he paraphrased it thus : 
 
 " ' Live, while you live, the epicure would say, 
 And seize the pleasures of the present day. 
 Live, while you live, the sacred preacher cries, 
 And give to God each moment as it flies. 
 Lord, in my views let both united be ; 
 I live in pleasure, when I live to thee.'" 
 
 I asked if it was not strange that government should permit so 
 many infidel writings to pass without censure. JOHNSON : " Sir, it 
 is mighty foolish. It is for want of knowing their own power. The 
 present family on the throne came to the crown against the will of 
 nine-tenths of the people. Whether those nine-tenths were right or 
 wrong, it is not our business now to inquire. But such being the 
 situation of the royal family, they were glad to encourage all who 
 would be their friends. Now you know every bad man is a Whig ; 
 every man who has loose notions. The church was all against, this 
 family. They were, as I say, glad to encourage any friends ; and 
 therefore, since their accession, there is no instance of any man being 
 kept back on account of his bad principles ; and hence this inundation 
 of impiety." I observed that Mr. Hume, some of whose writings were 
 very unfavourable to religion, was, however, a Tory." JOHNSON : " Sir, 
 Hume is a Tory by chance, as being a Scotchman ; but not upon a 
 principle of duty; for he has no principle. If he is anything, he is a 
 Hobbist." 
 
 There was something not quite serene in his humour to-night, 
 after supper ; for he spoke of hastening away to London, without 
 stopping much at Edinburgh. I reminded him that he had General 
 Oughton and many others to see. JOHNSON : " Nay, I shall neither 
 go in jest, nor stay in jest. I shall do what is fit." BOSWELL : " Ay, 
 sir, but all I desire is, that you will let me tell you when it is fit." 
 JOHNSON : " Sir, I shall not consult you." BOSWELL : " If you are 
 to run away from us as soon as you get loose, we will keep you 
 confined in an island." He was, however, on the whole, very good 
 company. Mr. Donald Macleod expressed very well the gradual 
 impression made by Dr. Johnson on those who are so fortunate as to 
 obtain his acquaintance. " When you see him first, you are struck 
 with awful reverence ; then you admire him ; arid then you love 
 him cordially." 
 
 I read this evening some part of Voltaire's " History of the War in 
 1741," and of Lord Kames against " Hereditary Indefeasible Right." 
 This is a very slight circumstance, with which I should not trouble 
 my reader, but for the sake of observing, that every man should keep
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 217 
 
 minutes of whatever he reads. Every circumstance of his studies 
 should be recorded ; what books he has consulted ; how much of them 
 he has read ; at what times ; how often the same authors ; and what 
 opinions he formed of them, at different periods of his life. Such an 
 account would much illustrate the history of his mind. 
 
 FRIDAY, OCTOBER 1. 
 
 I showed to Dr. Johnson verses in a Magazine on his Dictionary, 
 composed of uncommon words taken from it : 
 
 " Little of Anthropopathy has he," &c.* 
 
 He read a few of them, and said, "I am not answerable for all the 
 words in my Dictionary." I told him that Garrick kept a book of 
 all AV ho had either praised or abused him. On the subject of his 
 own reputation, he said, "Now that I see it has been so current a 
 topic, I wish I had done so too ; but it could not well be done now, 
 as so many things are scattered in newspapers." He said he was 
 angry at a boy of Oxford, who wrote in his defence against Kenrick ; 
 because it was doing him hurt to answer Kenrick. f He was told 
 afterwards, the boy was to come to him to ask a favour. He first 
 thought to treat him rudely, on account of his meddling in that 
 business ; but then he considered, he had meant to do him all the ser- 
 vice in his power, and he took another resolution ; he told him he 
 would do what he could for him, and did so ; and the boy was satis- 
 fied. He said he did not know how his pamphlet was done, as he 
 had read very little of it. The boy made a good figure at Oxford, but 
 died. He remarked, that attacks on authors did them much service. 
 " A man who tells me my pla/ is very bad, is less my enemy than he 
 who lets it die in silence. A man whose business it is to be talked of, 
 is much helped by being attacked." Garrick, I observed, had been 
 often so helped. JOHNSON: "Yes, sir; though Garrick had more 
 opportunities than almost any man, to keep the public in mind of 
 him, by exhibiting himself to such numbers, he would not have had 
 so much reputation, had he not been so much attacked. Every attack 
 produces a defence ; and so attention is engaged. There is no sport 
 in mere praise, when people are all of a mind." BOSWELL : " Then 
 
 * " Little of anthropopathy has ke 
 That in yon'fulgid curricle reclines 
 Alone, while I, depauperated, bard, 
 The streets pedestrioua scour," &c. 
 
 This parody was by Maclaurin, Lord Dreghom, who cumbered the " Scots Maga- 
 zine" and newspapers with much indifferent verse. ED. 
 
 + The "boy" was a young student named Barclay, who died eorly in life. See 
 Boswell's Life of John son, under dote of 1765. ED.
 
 218 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Hume is not the worse for Beattie's attack ? " JOHNSON : " He is, be- 
 cause Beattie has confuted him. I do not say but that there may be 
 some attacks which will hurt an author. Though Hume suffered from 
 Beattie, he was the better for other attacks." (He certainly could 
 not include in that number those of Dr. Adams and Mr. Tytler.) 
 BOSWELL : " Goldsmith is the better for attacks." JOHNSON : " Yes, 
 sir ; but he does not think so yet. When Goldsmith and I publishedj 
 each of us something at the same time, we were given to understand 
 that we might review each other. Goldsmith was for accepting the 
 offer. I said, ' No ; set reviewers at defiance.' It was said to old 
 Bentley, upon the attacks against him, ' Why, they'll write you down.' 
 ' No, sir,' he replied ; ' depend upon it, no man was ever written down 
 but by himself.' " He observed to me afterwards, that the advantages 
 authors derived from attacks, were chiefly in subjects of taste, where 
 you cannot confute, as so much may be said on either side. He told 
 me he did not know who was the author of the " Adventures of a 
 Guinea," * but that the bookseller had sent the first volume to him 
 in manuscript, to have his opinion if it should be printed ; and he 
 thought it should. 
 
 The weather being now somewhat better, Mr. James Macdonald, 
 factor to Sir Alexander Macdonald in Slate, insisted that all the com- 
 pany at Ostig should go to the house at Armidale, which Sir Alex- 
 ander had left, having gone with his lady to Edinburgh, and be his 
 guests, till we had an opportunity of sailing to Mull. We accordingly 
 got there to dinner ; and passed our day very cheerfully, being no less 
 than fourteen in number. 
 
 SATURDAY, OCTOBER 2. 
 
 Dr. Johnson said that " A chief and his lady should make their 
 house like a court. They should have a certain number of the gen- 
 tlemen's daughters to receive their education in the family, to learn 
 pastry and such things from the housekeeper, and manners from my 
 lady. That was the way in the great families in Wales ; at Lady 
 Salusbury's, Mrs. Thrale's grandmother, and at Lady Philips's. I 
 distinguish the families by the ladies, as I speak of what was properly 
 their province. There were always six young ladies at Sir John 
 Philips's : when one was married, her place was filled up. There was 
 
 * It was Charles Johnson, er Johnstone, a native of Ireland, whose name will be 
 found in most of the popular biographies. He was educated for the bar, but the 
 infirmity of deafness under which he laboured restricted his practice, and he went to 
 India in the capacity of editor of a newspaper. He died at Bengal, in the year 1800, 
 aged about seventy. Charles Johnson wrote several other novels, but without the 
 talent or success of the first. The " Adventures of a Guinea " is a satirical work a 
 scandalous chronicle of the times, but itkas not maintained its popularity. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 219 
 
 a large school- room, where they learnt needle-work and other things." 
 I observed, that at some courts in Germany, there were academies 
 for the pages, who are the sons of gentlemen, and receive their edu- 
 cation without any expense to their parents. Dr. Johnson said that 
 manners were best learned at those courts. " You arc admitted with 
 great facility to the prince's company, and yet must treat him with 
 much respect. At a great court, you arc at such a distance that you 
 get no good." I said, " Very true : a man sees the court of Versailles 
 as if he saw it on a theatre." He said, " The best book that ever was 
 written upon good breeding, "II Corteggiano," by Castiglione, grew 
 up at the little court of Urbino, and you should read it." I am glad 
 always to have his opinion of books. At Mr. Macphcrson's, he com- 
 mended " Whitby's Commentary," and said he had heard him called 
 rather lax ; but he did not perceive it. He had looked at a novel, 
 called " The Man of the World," at Itasay, but thought there was 
 nothing in it." * He said to-day, while reading my Journal, " This 
 will be a great treasure to us some years hence." 
 
 Talking of a very penurious gentleman of our acquaintance, he 
 observed, that he exceeded L'Avare in the play. I concurred with 
 him, and remarked that he would do well, if introduced in one of 
 Foote's farces ; that the best way to get it done, would be to bring 
 Foote to be entertained at his house for a week, and then it would be 
 facit iniUrjnatio. JOHNSON : " Sir, I wish he had him. I, who have 
 eaten his bread, will not give him to him ; but I should be glad he 
 came honestly by him." 
 
 He said, he was angry at Thrale for sitting at General Oglethorpc's 
 without speaking. He censured a man for degrading himself to a 
 nonentity. I observed, that Goldsmith was on the other extreme ; 
 for he spoke at all ventures. JOHNSON : " Yes, sir ; Goldsmith, rather 
 than not speak, will talk of what he knows himself to be ignorant, 
 which can only end in exposing him." " I wonder, (said I,) if he 
 feels that he exposes himself. If he was with two tailors;" " Or 
 with two founders, (said Dr. Johnson, interrupting me,) he would fall 
 a talking on the method of making cannon, though both of them 
 would soon see that he did not know what metal a cannon is made 
 of." We were very social and merry in his room this forenoon. In 
 the evening the company danced as usual. We performed, with much 
 activity, a dance which, I suppose, the emigration from Sky has occa- 
 
 * The " Man of the World," like the " Man of Feeling," was published anonymously. 
 Boswell does not seem to have known that the novel was by his countryman, Henry 
 Mackenzie. The want of character would be its great defect with Johnson. It Uas 
 Jittle or nothing of actual life and manners, but the plot is well arranged and the 
 incidents pathetic. Mackenzie lived to the age of eightj-six; he died January 14th, 
 1831. ED.
 
 320 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 sioned. They call it America. Each of the couples, after the common 
 involutions and evolutions, successively whirls round in a circle, till all 
 are in motion ; and the dance seems intended to show how emigration 
 catches, till a whole neighbourhood is set afloat. Mrs. Mackinnon 
 told me, that last year, when a ship sailed from Portree for America, 
 the people on shore were almost distracted when they saw their rela- 
 tions go off; they lay down on the ground, tumbled, and tore the 
 grass with their teeth. This year there was not a tear shed : the 
 people on shore seemed to think that they would soon follow. This 
 indifference is a mortal sign for the country. 
 
 "We danced to-night to the music of the bagpipe, which made us 
 beat the ground with prodigious force. I thought it better to endea- 
 vour to conciliate the kindness of the people of Sky, by joinining 
 heartily in their amusements, than to play the abstract scholar. I 
 looked on this Tour to the Hebrides as a copartnership between Dr. 
 Johnson and me. Each was to do all he could to promote its success ; 
 and I have some reason to flatter myself, that my gayer exertions 
 were of service to us. Dr. Johnson's immense fund of knowledge and 
 wit was a wonderful source of admiration and delight to them ; but 
 they had it only at times ; and they required to have the intervals 
 agreeably filled up, and even little elucidations of his learned text. I 
 was also fortunate enough frequently to draw him forth to talk, when 
 he would otherwise have been silent. The fountain was at times 
 locked up, till I opened the spring. It was curious to hear the 
 Hebrideans, when any dispute happened while he was out of the' 
 room, saying, " Stay till Dr. Johnson comes : say that to him ! " 
 
 Yesterday, Dr. Johnson said, " I cannot but laugh, to think of 
 myself roving among the Hebrides at Sixty. I wonder where I shall 
 rove at fourscore ! " This evening he disputed the truth of what is 
 said, as to the people of St. Kilda catching cold whenever strangers 
 come. " How can there (said he) be a physical effect without a phy- 
 sical cause?" He added, laughing, "The arrival of a ship full of 
 strangers would kill them ; for, if one stranger gives them one cold, 
 two strangers must give them two colds ; and so in proportion." 
 I wondered to hear him ridicule this, as he had praised Macaulay for 
 putting it in his book ; saying, that it was manly in him to tell a fact, 
 however strange, if he himself believed it. He said, the evidence 
 was not adequate to the improbability of the thing ; that if a physi- 
 cian, rather disposed to be incredulous, should go to St. Kilda, and 
 report the fact, then he would begin to look about him. They said, 
 it was annually proved by Macleod's steward, on whose arrival all 
 the inhabitants caught cold. He jocularly remarked, " The steward 
 always comes to demand something from them ; and so they fall a
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 221 
 
 coughing. I suppose the people in Sky all take a cold when 
 
 (naming a certain person) comes." They said he came only in sum- 
 mer. JOHNSON : " That is out of tenderness to you. Bad weather 
 and he, at the same time, would be too much." * 
 
 SUNDAY, OCTOBER 3. 
 
 Joseph reported that the wind was still against us. Dr. Johnson 
 said, "A wind, or not a wind? that is the question;" for he can 
 amuse himself at times with a little play of words, or rather sen- 
 tences. I remember, when he turned his cup at Aberbrothick, where 
 we drank tea, he muttered Claudite, jam rivos, pueri. I must again 
 and again apologize to fastidious readers, for recording such minute 
 particulars. They prove the scrupulous fidelity of my Journal. Dr. 
 Johnson said it was a very exact picture of a portion of his life. 
 
 While we were chatting in the indolent style of men who were to 
 stay here all this day at least, we were suddenly roused at being told 
 that the wind was fair, that a little fleet of herring-busses was passing 
 by for Mull, and that Mr. Simpson's vessel was about to sail. Hugh 
 Macdonald, the skipper, came to us, and was impatient that we should 
 get ready, which we soon did. Dr. Johnson, with composure and 
 solemnity, repeated the observations of Epictetus, that " As man has 
 the voyage of death before him, whatever may be his employment, he 
 should be ready at the master's call ; and an old man should never be 
 far from the shore, lest he should not be able to get himself ready." 
 He rode, and I and the other gentleman walked about an English 
 mile to the shore, Avhere the vessel lay. Dr. Johnson said, he should 
 never forget Sky, and returned thanks for all civilities. We were 
 carried to the vessel in a small boat which she had, and we set sail 
 very briskly about one o'clock. I was much pleased with the motion 
 for many hours. Dr. Johnson grew sick, and retired under cover, as 
 it rained a good deal. I kept above, that I might have fresh air, and 
 finding myself not affected by the motion of the vessel, I exulted in 
 being a stout seaman, while Dr. Johnson was quite in a state of anni- 
 hilation. But I was soon humbled ; for after imagining that I could 
 
 * This is another " palpable hit" at the chief of the Macdonnlds. The question oa 
 to the St, Kilda cold will be found discussed in Boswell's " Life of Johnson," under the 
 date 1768 ; also in the journal kept by Dr. E. D. Clarke, and included in Otter's " Life 
 of Clarke," 1825 ; and in Wilson's " Voyage round Scotland," 1842. The fact of the annual 
 cold or influenza is undoubted, and the best solution of the problem is that of Dr. Clarke. 
 The steward, or tacksman, in his annual visits brings a supply of whiskey with him; 
 all the marriages take place while he is on the island; the huts of the islanders are 
 crowded with dancing and drinking parties; and hence it is the alteration in manners 
 and diet, the intemperance or jollity which takes place on the occasion of the steward a 
 visit, which causes the epidemic. ED.
 
 
 223 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 go with ease to America or the East Indies, I became very sick, but 
 kept above board, though it rained hard. 
 
 As we had been detained so long in Sky by bad weather, we gave 
 up the scheme that Col had planned for us of visiting several islands, 
 and contented ourselves with the prospect of seeing Mull, andlcolmkill, 
 and Inchkenneth, which lie near to it. 
 
 Mr. Simpson was sanguine in his hopes for awhile, the wind being 
 fair for us. He said he would land us at Icolmkill that night. But 
 when the wind failed, it was resolved that we should make for the 
 sound of Mull, and land in the harbour of Tobermorie. We kept near 
 the five herring vessels for some time ; but afterwards four of them 
 got before us, and one little wherry fell behind us. When we got in 
 full view of the point of Ardnamurchan, the wind changed, and was 
 directly against our getting into the sound. We wei - e then obliged to 
 tack, and get forward in that tedious manner. As we advanced, the 
 storm grew greater, and the sea very rough. Col then began to talk 
 of making for Egg, or Canna, or his own island. Our skipper said, 
 he would get us into the sound. Having struggled for this a good 
 while in vain, he said, he would push forward till we were near the 
 land of Mull, where we might cast anchor, and lie till the morning ; for 
 although, before this, there had been a good moon, and I had pretty 
 distinctly seen not only the land of Mull, but up the sound, and the 
 country of Morven as at one end of it, the night was now grown very 
 dark. Our crew consisted of one Macdonald, our skipper, and two 
 sailors, one of whom had but one eye ; Mr. Simpson himself, Col, and 
 Hugh Macdonald his servant, all helped. Simpson said, he would 
 willingly go for Col, if young Col or his servant would undertake to 
 pilot us to a harbour ; but, as the island is low land, it was dangerous 
 to run upon it in the dark. Col and his servant appeared a little 
 dubious. The scheme of running for Canna seemed then to be em- 
 braced ; but Canna was ten leagues off, all out of our way ; and they 
 were afraid to attempt the harbour of Egg. All these different plans 
 were successively in agitation. The old skipper still tried to make 
 for the land of Mull ; but then it was considered that there was no 
 place there where we could anchor in safety. Much time was lost in 
 striving against the storm. At last it became so rough, and threat- 
 ened to be so much worse, that Col and his servant took more courage, 
 and said they would undertake to hit one of the harbours in Col. 
 "Then let us run for it in God's name," said the skipper; and in- 
 stantly we turned towards it. The little wherry which had fallen behind 
 us, had hard work. The master begged that, if we made for Col, we 
 should put out a light to him. Accordingly one of the sailors waved 
 a glowing ueat for some time. The various difficulties that were
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 233 
 
 started gave me a good deal of apprehension, from which I was re- 
 lieved, when I found we were to run for a harbour before the wind. 
 But my relief was but of short duration ; for I soon heard that our 
 sails were very bad, and were in danger of being torn in pieces, in 
 which case we should be driven upon the rocky shore of Col. It Avas 
 very dark, and there was a heavy and incessant rain. The sparks of 
 the burning peat flew so much about, that I dreaded the vessel might 
 take fire. Then, as Col was a sportsman, and had powder on board, 
 I figured that we might be blown up. Simpson and he appeared a 
 little frightened, which made me more so ; and the perpetual talking, 
 or rather shouting, which was carried on in Erse, alarmed me still 
 more. A man is always suspicious of what [another] is saying in an 
 unknown tongue ; and, if fear be his passion at the time, he grows 
 more afraid. Our vessel often lay so much on one side, that I trem- 
 bled lest she should be overset, and indeed they told me afterwards, 
 that they had run her sometimes to within an inch of the water, so 
 anxious were they to make what haste they could before the night 
 should be worse. I now saw what I never saw before, a prodigious 
 sea, with immense billows coming upon a vessel, so as that it seemed 
 hardly possible to escape. There was something grandly horrible in 
 the sight. I am glad I have seen it once. Amidst all these terrify- 
 ing circumstances, I endeavoured to compose my mind. It was not 
 easy to do it ; for all the stories that I had heard of the dangerous 
 sailing among the Hebrides, which is proverbial, came full upon my 
 recollection. When I thought of those who were dearest to me, and 
 would suffer severely, should I be lost, I upbraided myself, as 
 not having a sufficient cause for putting myself in such danger. 
 Piety afforded me comfort ; yet I was disturbed by the objections 
 that have been made against a particular providence, and by the 
 arguments of those who maintain that it is in vain to hope that the 
 petitions of an individual, or even of congregations, can have any 
 influence with the Deity objections which have been often made, 
 and which Dr. Hawkesworth has lately revived, in his Preface to the 
 " Voyages to the South Seas ; " but Dr. Ogden's excellent doctrine on 
 the efficacy of intercession prevailed. 
 
 It was half-an-hour after eleven before we set oursjelves in the 
 course for Col. As I saw them all busy doing something, I asked 
 Col, with much earnestness, what I could do. He, with a happy 
 readiness, put into my hand a rope, which was fixed to the top of 
 one of the masts, and told me to hold it till he bade me pull. If I 
 had considered the matter, I might have seen that this could not be 
 of the least service ; but his object was to keep me out of the way of 
 those who were busy working the vessel, and at the same time to
 
 324 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 divert my fear, by employing me, and making me think that I was 
 of use. Thus did I stand firm to my post, -while the wind and rain 
 beat upon me, always expecting a call to pull my rope. 
 
 The man with one eye steered ; old Macdonald, and Col and his 
 servant lay upon the forecastle, looking sharp out for the harbour. It 
 was necessary to carry much cloth as they termed it ; that is to 
 say, much sail, in order -to keep the vessel off the shore of Col. This 
 made violent plunging in a rough sea. At last they spied the har- 
 bour of Lochiern, and Col cried, " Thank God, we are safe !" We ran 
 up till we were opposite to it, and soon afterwards we got into it, 
 and cast anchor. 
 
 Dr. Johnson had all this time been quiet and unconcerned. He 
 had lain down on one of the beds, and, having got free from sickness, 
 was satisfied. The truth is, he knew nothing of the danger we were 
 in ; but, fearless and unconcerned, might have said, in the words 
 which he has chosen for the motto to his " Rambler," 
 
 " Quo me cunque rapit tempestas, deferor hospes."* 
 
 Once, during the doubtful consultations, he asked whither we were 
 going ; and upon being told that it was not certain whether to Mull 
 or Col, he cried, " Col for my money !" I now went down, with Col 
 and Mr. Simpson, to visit him. He was lying in philosophic tran- 
 quillity, with a greyhound of Col's at his back, keeping him warm. 
 Col is quite the Juvenis qui gaudet canibus. He had, when we left 
 Talisker, two greyhounds, two terriers, a pointer, and a large New- 
 foundland water-dog. He lost one of his terriers by the road, but 
 had still five dogs with him. I was very ill, and very desirous to get 
 to shore. When I was told that we could not land that night, as the 
 storm had now increased, I looked so miserably, as Col afterwards 
 informed me, that what Shakespeare has made the Frenchman say of 
 the English soldiers, when scantily dieted, " Piteous they will look, 
 like drowned mice /"f might, I believe, have been applied to me. There 
 was in the harbour before us a Campbell-town vessel, the Betty, Ken- 
 neth Morrison master, taking in kelp, and bound for Ireland. We 
 sent our boat to beg beds for two gentlemen, and that the master 
 would send his boat, which was larger than ours. He accordingly 
 did so, and Col and I were accommodated in his vessel till the 
 morning. 
 
 * " For, as the tempest drives, I shape my way." FBANCIS. 
 
 H- They want their porridge and their fat bull-beeves; 
 Either they must be dieted like mules, 
 And have their provender tied to their months, 
 Or piteous they will look, like drowned mice. 
 
 FIEST PAKT OF KISG HEXKT VI., Act i., sc. 2.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. . 225 
 
 MONDAY, OCTOBER 4. 
 
 About eight o'clock we went in the boat to Mr. Simpson's vessel, 
 and took in Dr. Johnson. He was quite well, though he had tasted 
 nothing but a dish of tea since Saturday night. On our expressing 
 some surprise at this, he said that, " When he lodged in the Temple, 
 and had no regular system of life, he had fasted for two days at a 
 time, during which he had gone about visiting, though not at the 
 hours of dinner or supper ; that he had drunk tea, but eaten no bread ; 
 that this was no intentional fasting, but happened just in the course 
 of a literary life." 
 
 There was a little miserable public-house close upon the shore, 
 to which we should have gone had we landed last night ; but this 
 morning Col resolved to take us directly to the house of Captain 
 Lauchlan Maclean, a descendant of his family, who had acquired a 
 fortune in the East Indies, and taken a farm in Col. We had about 
 an English mile to go to it. Col, and Joseph, and some others, ran 
 to some little horses, called here Shelties, that were running wild on 
 a heath, and catched one of them. We had a saddle with us, which 
 was clapped upon it, and a straw halter was put on its head. Dr. 
 Johnson was then mounted, and Joseph very slowly and gravely led 
 the horse. I said to Dr. Johnson, " I wish, sir, the club saw you in 
 this attitude."* 
 
 It was a very heavy rain, and I was wet to the skin. Captain 
 Maclean had but a poor temporary house, or rather hut ; however, it 
 was a very good haven to us. There was a blazing peat-fire, and 
 Mrs. Maclean, daughter of the minister of the parish, got us tea. I 
 felt still the motion of the sea. Dr. Johnson said, it was not in ima- 
 gination, but a continuation of motion on the fluids, like that of the 
 sea itself after the storm is over. 
 
 There were some books on the board which served as a chimney- 
 piece. Dr. Johnson took up " Burnet's History of his own Times." 
 He said, " The first part of it is one of the most entertaining books 
 in the English language it is quite dramatic ; while he went about 
 every where, saw every where, and heard every where. By the first 
 part, I mean so far as it appears tha.t Burnet himself was actually 
 engaged in what he has told ; and this may be easily distinguished." 
 Captain Maclean censured Burnet for his high praise of Lauderdale 
 
 * This curious exhibition may perhaps remind some of ray readers of the ludicrous 
 lines, made, during Sir Robert Walpole's administration, on Mr. George (afterwards 
 Lord) Lyttellon, though the figures of the two personages must be allowed to be 
 very different : 
 
 " But who is this astride the pony; 
 
 So long, so lean, so lank, so bony ? 
 
 Dat bo de great orator, Liitletony." BOSVTBLL. 
 
 P
 
 225 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 in a dedication, when he shows him in his history to have been so 
 bad a man. JOHNSON* : " I do not myself think that a man should 
 say in a dedication what he could not say in a history. However, 
 allowance should be made ; for there is a great difference. The 
 known style of a dedication is flattery it professes to flatter. There 
 is the same difference between what a man says in a dedication and 
 what he says in a history, as between a lawyer's pleading a cause 
 and reporting it." 
 
 The day passed away pleasantly enough. The wind became fair 
 for Mull in the evening, and Mr. Simpson resolved to sail next 
 morning ; but having been thrown into the island of Col, we were 
 unwilling to leave it unexamined, especially as we considered that 
 the Campbell-town vessel would sail for Mull in a day or two ; and 
 therefore we determined to stay. 
 
 TUESDAY, OCTOBER 5. 
 
 I rose, and wrote my Journal till about nine ; and then went to 
 Dr. Johnson, who sat up in bed, and talked and laughed. I said, it 
 was curious to look back ten years, to the time when we first thought 
 of visiting the Hebrides. How distant and improbable the scheme then 
 appeared ! Yet here we were actually among them. " Sir," said he, 
 " people may come to do anything almost, by talking of it. I really 
 believe I could talk myself into building a house upon island Isa, 
 though I should probably never come back again to see it. I could 
 easily persuade Reynolds to do it ; and there would be no great sin 
 in persuading him to do it. Sir, he would reason thus : ' What will 
 it cost me to be there once in two or three summers ? Why, perhaps, 
 five hundred pounds ; and what is that, in comparison of having a fine 
 retreat, to which a man can go, or to which he can send a friend ?' He 
 would never find out that he may have this within twenty miles of 
 London. Then I would tell him that he may marry one of the Miss 
 Macleods, a lady of great family. Sir, it is surprising how people 
 will go to a distance for what they may have at home. I knew a 
 lady who came up from Lincolnshire to Knightsbridge with one of 
 her daughters, and gave five guineas a-week for a lodging and a 
 warm bath that is, mere warm water. That, you know, could not 
 be had in Lincolnshire ! She said it was made either too hot or too 
 cold there." 
 
 After breakfast, Dr. Johnson and I, and Joseph mounted horses, 
 and Col and the Captain walked with us about a short mile across 
 the island. We paid a visit to the Reverend Mr. Hector Maclean. 
 His parish consists of the islands of Col and Tyr-yi. He was about 
 seventy-seven years of age a decent ecclesiastic, dressed in a full
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 287 
 
 suit of black clothes, and a black wig. He appeared like a Dutch 
 pastor, or one of the assembly of divines at Westminster. Dr. John- 
 son observed to me afterwards, " That he was a fine old man, and 
 was as well dressed, and tad as much dignity in his appearance as 
 the dean of a cathedral." We were told that he had a valuable library, 
 though but poor accommodation for it, being obliged to keep his books 
 in large chests. I was curious to sec- him and Dr. Johnson together. 
 Neither of them heard very distinctly : so each of them talked in his 
 own way, and at the same time. Mr. Maclean said he had a confuta- 
 tion of Bayle, by Leibnitz. JOHNSON : " A confutation of Bayle, sir ! 
 What part of Bayle do you mean ? The greatest part of his writings 
 is not confutable ; it is historical and critical." 'Mr. Maclean said, 
 " The irreligious part ;" and proceeded to talk of Leibnitz's contro- 
 versy with Clarke, calling Leibnitz a great man. JOHNSON : "Why, 
 sir, Leibnitz persisted in affirming that Newton called space sensor inn i 
 fnt minis, notwithstanding he was corrected, and .desired to observe 
 that Newton's words were, Q.U\si>sensorium nnminis. No, sir, Leib- 
 nitz was as paltry a fellow as I know. Out of respect to Queen Caro- 
 line, who patronised him, Clarke treated him too-well." 
 
 During the time that Dr. Johnson was thus going on, the old 
 minister was standing with his back to the fire, cresting up erect, 
 pulling dow r n the front of his periwig, and talking what a great man 
 Leibnitz was. To give an idea of the scene would require a page 
 with two columns ; but it ought rather to be represented by two good 
 players. The old gentleman said Clarke was very wicked, for going 
 so much into the Arian system. "I will not say he was wicked,'' 
 said Dr. Johnson; "he might be mistaken." MACLEAN: "He was 
 wicked, to shut his eyes against the Scriptures ; and worthy men in 
 England have since confuted him to all intents and purposes."- 
 JOHNSON : " I know not who has confuted him to all intents and pur- 
 poses." Here, again, there was a double talking, each continuing to 
 maintain his own argument, without hearing exactly what the other 
 said. 
 
 I regretted that Dr. Johnson did not practise the art of accommo- 
 dating himself to different sorts of people. Had be been softer with 
 this venerable old man, we might have had more conversation ; but 
 his forcible spirit, and impetuosity of manner, may be said to spare 
 neither sex nor age. I have seen even Mrs. Thrale stunned ; but I 
 have often maintained, that it is better he should retain his own 
 manner. Pliability of address I coi>ceive to be inconsistent with that 
 majestic power of mind which he possesses, and which produces such 
 noble effects. A lofty oak will not bend like a supple Avillow. 
 
 He told me afterwards he liked firmness in an old man, and was 
 
 P 2
 
 223 
 
 JOUKNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 JOHXSOX AND HKCTOIi MiCLEAN. 
 
 pleased to see Mr. Maclean so orthodox. " At his age, it is too late 
 for a man to be asking himself questions as to his belief." * 
 
 We rode to the northern part of the island, where we saw the 
 ruins of a church or chapel. We then proceeded to a place called 
 Grissipol, or the rough Pool. 
 
 At Grissipol we found a good farm-house, belonging to the Laird 
 of Col, and possessed by Mr. Macsweyn. On the beach here there is 
 a singular variety of curious stones. I picked up one very like a 
 small cucumber. By the by, Dr. Johnson told me, that Gay's line in 
 the " Beggar's Opera" " As men should serve a cucumber," &c., has 
 no waggish meaning with reference to men f flinging away cucumbers 
 as too cooling, which some have thought ; for it has been a common 
 saying of physicians in England, that a cucumber should be well 
 
 * Or, as Johnson more emphatically expresses it in his " Journey :'' " A man w ho has 
 settled his opinions does not love to have the tranquillity of his conviction disturbed; 
 and at seventy- seven it is time to be in earnest." The old minister died in 1780. ED. 
 t Mrs. Feachum's " Lament" for Polly's marriage : 
 
 " And when she's drest, with care and cost, all tempting, fine, and gay, 
 As men should serve a cucumber, she flings herself away." 
 There seems no obscurity in the passage. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 2i".l 
 
 sliced, and dressed with pepper and vinegar, and then thrown out, as 
 good for nothing. Mr. Macsweyn's predecessors had been in Sky 
 from a very remote period, upon the estate belonging to Macleod ; 
 probably before Macleod had it. The name is certainly Norwegian, 
 from Sueno, King of Norway. The present Mr. Macsweyn left Sky 
 upon the late Macleod's raising his rents. He then got this farm 
 from Col. 
 
 He appeared to be near fourscore ; but looked as fresh, and was 
 as strong as a man of fifty. His son Hugh looked older ; and, as Dr. 
 Johnson observed, had more the manners of an old man than he. I 
 had often heard of such instances, but never saw one before. Mrs. 
 Macsweyn was a decent old gentlewoman. She was dressed in tar- 
 tan, and could speak nothing but Erse. She said she taught Sir 
 James Macdonald Erse, and would teach me soon. I could now sing 
 a verse of the song Hatyin foam'eri, made in honour of Allan, the 
 famous Captain of Clanranald, who fell at Sheriffmuir ; whose servant, 
 who lay on the field watching his master's dead body, being asked 
 next day who that was, answered, " He was a man yesterday." * 
 
 * This striking reply is also ascribed to a domestic of the young Earl of Strath- 
 more, who fell at Sheriffmuir. (See Scott's " Tales of a Grandfather.") The death of 
 Allan Muidartach, or Allan of Muidart, paralysed the Highland ranks, but they were 
 roused by Glengarry springing forward and shouting in Gaelic, " Revenge to-day, and 
 mourning to-morrow !" Another touch of chivalry in this ill-managed battle was the 
 exclamation of an old Highlander on witnessing the indecision of his general, " Oh 
 for one hour of Dundee !" Allan of Mnidart was a gallant soldier, and sustained the 
 dignity of a chief with great liberality and magnificence. He is said to have been 
 trained to arms in the wars of the Continent, and to have been severely wounded on a 
 battle-field in Italy, on which occasion he was carefully nursed and attended by a " lady 
 of the land." The Gaelic song in honour of Allan of Muidart, or Moidart, Captain of 
 Clanronald, was a Jacobite ditty, connected with the rising in 1715. It is still a favourite 
 in the West Highlands. Boswell boasts that he had learned a verse of the song ; but we 
 suspect it was only the chorous, which, though of the customary length of four lines, 
 consists of but four words frequently repeated. It is as follows : 
 " Tha tigh'n fodham, fodhain, fodham, 
 Tha tigh'n fodham. fodham, fodham, 
 Tha tigh'n fodham, fodham, fodham, 
 
 Tha tigh'n fodham elridh." 
 
 Literally, " I am thinking of rising " i. e., taking up arms for the Chevalier. The 
 following crude version will give some idea of the original, though it may appear but 
 what Andrew Fairservice calls " nipperty-tipperty poetry nonsense." 
 Come pledge the health we proudly name, 
 
 The health of hero bright 
 Allan of Muidart, to thy fame, 
 And may'st thou rise in might! 
 
 Tha tigh'n, &c. 
 Though far from me thou might'st remove, 
 
 My heart would glow to hear 
 The martial tidings that I love, 
 The deeds of heroes dear ! 
 
 Tha tigh'n, &c.
 
 230 JOURNAL OF A TOUK 
 
 We were entertained here with a primitive heartiness. Whiskey 
 was served round in a shell,* according to the ancient Highland cus- 
 tom. Dr. Johnson would not partake of it ; hut, being desirous to do 
 honour to the " modes of other times," drank some water out of the 
 shell. 
 
 In the forenoon Dr. Johnson said, " It would require great resig- 
 nation to live in one of these islands," BOSWELL : " I don 't know, 
 
 is Called a quaicli, a small cup with handles, often finely mounted with silver. ED. 
 
 Oh, many a maiden in her mirth 
 
 In costly habitt fine, 
 From Manich town to Barra firth, 
 
 Would joy that she were thine. 
 
 Tim tigh'n, &c. 
 
 And some of Bng-lamVs daughters free, 
 
 And soine in flowery France, 
 And some in sunny Italy, 
 
 May rue thy witching glance. 
 
 Tha tigh'n, &c. 
 
 Evien to Kilphedar'si holy fane, 
 
 Crowd all the damsels fair, 
 Nor seem to list the preacher's strain, 
 
 For Allan Muidart's there. 
 
 Tha tigh'n, &c. 
 
 Or gathering at the trysting ground, 
 
 When falls the evening jrrey ; 
 To pipe and flute the dancers bound, 
 
 With coifs? and streamers gay. 
 
 Tha tigh'ny &c. 
 
 A pilot wise in storms art thou, 
 
 To sail by gulf or strand, 
 With dauntless skill to point the provr, 
 
 And steer the bark to land. 
 
 Tha tigh'n, &c. 
 
 A hunter brave; thy quarry still 
 
 On mountains rough to find, 
 When breaks the morn on pass and hill, 
 
 And starts the stag and hind ! 
 
 Tha tigh'n, &c. 
 
 A lion fierce in buttle thou, 
 
 Th'y blood-red crest on high,|! 
 Grim valour sits iijKin thy brow, 
 
 And glory lights thine eye ! 
 
 Tha tigh'n, &c. 
 
 t Hahit, a loose dress used by ladies in the west Highlands in 1715; a fashionable 
 walking-dress. 
 
 t Cille Phedair, the chapel or btirying-ground, dedicated to St. Peter, 
 
 5 The young women wore fillets of white cambric round the head, which were fastened 
 behind, the ends falling down in long stripes, crossed like a clergyman's bands. 
 
 |i A red hand, a ship, and a salmon were the armorial bearings of the Captain of Clan- 
 ronald. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 2& 
 
 sir ; I have felt myself at times in a state of almost mere physical 
 existence, satisfied to eat, drink, and sleep, and walk about, and enjoy 
 my own thoughts ; and I can figure a continuation of this." JOHN- 
 SON : " Ay, sir ; but if you were shut up here, your own thoughts 
 would torment you. You would think of Edinburgh or London, and 
 that you could not be there." 
 
 We set out after dinner for Si-eacacha, tho family seat of the Laird 
 of Col, accompanied by the young laird, who had now got a horse, 
 and by the younger Mr. Macsweyn, whose wife had gone thither 
 before us, to prepare everything for our reception, the laird and his 
 family being absent at Aberdeen. It is called Brcacacha, or the 
 Spotted Field, because in summer it is enamelled with clover and 
 daisies, as young Col told me. We passed by a place where there is 
 a very large stone, I may call it a rock ; " a vast weight for Ajax." 
 The tradition is, that a giant threw such another stone at his mistress, 
 up to the top of a hill, at a small distance ; and that she, in return, 
 threw this mass down to him. It was all in sport. 
 " Malo me petit lasciva puella."* 
 
 As we advanced, we came to a large extent of plain ground. I 
 had not seen such a place for a long time. Col and I took a gallop 
 upon it by way of race. It was very refreshing to me, after having 
 been so long taking short steps in hilly countries. It was like stretch- 
 ing a man's legs after being cramped in a short bed. We also passed 
 close by a large extent of sand-hills, near two miles square. Dr. 
 Johnson said, " He never had the image before. It was horrible, if 
 barrenness and danger could be so." I heard him, after we were in 
 the house of Breacacha, repeating to himself, as he walked about the 
 
 room 
 
 " And smothered in the dusty whirlwind, dies." 
 
 Probably he had been thinking of the whole of the simile in Cato, of 
 which that is the concluding line ; the sandy desert had struck him 
 so strongly.f The sand has of late been blown over a good deal of 
 
 * " My Phyllis me with pelted apples plies, 
 
 Then tripping to the woods the wanton hies." DKTDEN. 
 
 f A Highland snow-drift had, forty years before, suggested the same simile to 
 Captain Burt. " These drifts are, above all other dangers, dreaded by the High- 
 landers ; for my own part, I could not but think of Mr. Addison's short description of 
 a whirlwind in the wild, sandy deserts of Numidia." (" Letters from the North of Scot- 
 Jand.") The passage alluded to closes the fourth act of Cato 
 " So where our wide Numidian wastes extend, 
 Sudden the impetuous hurricanes descend, 
 Wheel through the air, in circling eddies play, 
 Tear up the sands, and sweep whole plains away. 
 The helpless traveller, with wild surprise, 
 Sees tho dry desert all around him rise, 
 And, smothered in the dusty whirlwind, dies."
 
 833 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 meadow ; and the people of the island say, that their fathers remem- 
 bered much of the space which is now covered with sand to have been 
 under tillage. Col's house is situated on a bay called Breacacha Bay. 
 We found here a neat new-built gentleman's house, better than any 
 we had been in since we were at Lord Errol's. Dr. Johnson relished 
 it much at first, but soon remarked to me, that " There was nothing 
 becoming a chief about it : it was a mere tradesman's box." He 
 seemed quite at home, and no longer found any difficulty in using the 
 Highland address ; for as soon as we arrived, he said, with a spirited 
 familiarity, " Now, Col, if you could get us a dish of tea." Dr. John- 
 son and I had each an excellent bed-chamber. We had a dispute 
 which of us had the best curtains. His were rather the best, being 
 of linen ; but I insisted that my bed had the best posts, which was 
 undeniable. " Well, (said he,) if you have the best posts, we will have 
 you tied to them, and whipped." I mention this slight circumstance, 
 only to show how ready he is, even in mere trifles, to get the better 
 of his antagonist, by placing him in a ludicrous view. I have known 
 him sometimes use the same art, when hard pressed in serious dispu- 
 tation. Goldsmith, I remember, to retaliate for many a severe defeat 
 which he has suffered from him, applied to him a lively saying in one 
 of Gibber's comedies, which puts this part of his character in a strong 
 light, " There is no arguing with Johnson ; for, if his pistol misses 
 ftre, he knocks you down with the butt-end of it." 
 
 WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 6. 
 
 After a sufficiency of sleep, we assembled at breakfast. We were 
 just as if in barracks. Every body was master. We went "and viewed 
 the old castle of Col, which is not far from the present house, near 
 the shore, and founded on a rock. It has never been a large feudal 
 residence, and has nothing about it that requires a particular descrip- 
 tion. Like other old inconvenient buildings of the same age, it ex- 
 emplified Gray's picturesque lines 
 
 "Huge windows that exclude the light, 
 And passages that lead to nothing."* 
 
 It may, however, be worth mentioning, that on the second story 
 we saw a vault, which was, and still is, the family prison. There 
 was a woman put into it by the laird for theft, within these ten 
 years, and any offender would be confined there yet ; for, from the 
 necessity of the thing, as the island is remote from any power estab- 
 lished by law, the laird must exercise his jurisdiction to a certain 
 degree. 
 
 * Gray has " Rich windows," but the epithet would Hot have suited the windows 
 af an old Highland castle ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 233 
 
 We were shown, in a corner of this vault, a hole, into which Col 
 said greater criminals used to be put. It was now filled up with 
 rubbish of different kinds. He said it was of a great depth. " Ay," 
 (said Dr. Johnson, smiling,) all such places, that arejillcd up, were of 
 a great depth." He is very quick in showing that he does not give 
 credit to careless or exaggerated accounts of things. After seeing the 
 castle, we looked at a small hut near it. It is called Tcigh Franchicli, 
 i. e. the Frenchman's House. Col could not tell us the history of it. 
 A poor man with a wife and children now lived in it. We went into 
 
 JUU.NSOM 01VI.NO AIMS. 
 
 it, and Dr. Johnson gave them some charity. There was but one bed 
 for all the family, and the hut was very smoky. When he came out, 
 he said to me, " Et hoc secundum sententiam philosojphorum est essc 
 beat us [And this, in the opinion of the philosophers, is to be happy.] 
 BOSWELL : " The philosophers, when they placed happiness in a cot- 
 tage, supposed cleanliness and no smoke." JOHNSON : " Sir, they did 
 not think about either."
 
 234 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 We walked a little in the laird's garden, in which endeavours have 
 been used to rear some trees ; but as soon as they got above the sur- 
 rounding wall, they died. Dr. Johnson recommended sowing the 
 seeds of hardy trees, instead of planting. 
 
 Col and I rode out this morning, and viewed a part of the island. 
 In the course of our ride, we saw a turnip-field, which he had hoed 
 with his own hands. He first introduced this kind of husbandry into 
 the Western islands. We also looked at an appearance of lead, which 
 seemed very promising. It has been long known ; for I found letters 
 to the late laird, from Sir John Erskine and Sir Alexander Murray, 
 respecting it. 
 
 After dinner came Mr. Maclean, of Corneck, brother to Isle of 
 Muck, who is a cadet of the family of Col. Hb possesses the two 
 ends of Col, which belong to the Duke of Argyl. Corneck had lately 
 taken a lease of them at a very advanced rent, rather than let the 
 Campbells get a footing in the island, one of whom had offered nearly 
 as much as he. Dr. Johnson well observed, that " Landlords err 
 much when they calculate merely what their land may yield. The 
 rent must be in a proportionate ratio of what the land may yield, and 
 of the power of the tenant to make it yield. A tenant cannot make 
 by his land, but according to the corn and cattle which he has. Sup- 
 pose you should give him twice as much land as he has, it does him 
 no good, unless he gets also more stock. It is clear, then, that the 
 Highland landlords-, who let their substantial tenants leave them, are 
 infatuated; for the poor small tenants cannot give them good rents, 
 from the very nature of things. They have not the means-of raising 
 more from their farms." Corneck, Dr. Johnson said, was the most 
 distinct man that he had met with in these isles; he did not shut his 
 eyes, or put his fingers in his cars, which he seemed to think was a 
 good deal the mode with most of the people whom we have seen of 
 late. 
 
 THURSDAY, OCTOBER 7. 
 
 Captain Maclean joined us this morning at breakfast. There 
 came on a dreadful storm of wind and rain, which continued all day, 
 and rather increased at night. The wind was directly against our 
 getting to Mull. We were in a strange state of abstraction from the 
 world : we could neither hear from our friends, nor write to them. 
 Col had brought Daille " On the Fathers," Lucas " On Happiness," 
 and More's " Dialogues," from the Reverend Mr. Maclean's, and 
 Burnet's " History of his own Times," from Captain Maclean's ; and 
 he had of his own some books of farming, and Gregory's " Geometry." 
 Dr. Johnson read a good deal of Burnet, and of Gregory, and I ob-
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 235 
 
 served he made some geometrical notes in the end of his pocket-book. 
 I read a little of Young's " Six Weeks' Tour through the Southern 
 Counties," and Ovid's " Epistles," which I had bought at Inverness, 
 and which helped to solace many a weary hour. 
 
 We were to have gone with Dr. Johnson this morning to see the 
 mine ; but were prevented by the storm. While it was raging, he 
 said, " We may be glad we are not damnati ad metalla" 
 
 FRIDAY, OCTOBER 8. 
 
 Dr. Johnson appeared to-day very weary of our present confined 
 situation. He said, " I want to be on the main-land, and go on with 
 existence. This is a waste of life." * 
 
 I shall here insert, without regard to chronology, some of his con- 
 versation at different times. 
 
 " There was a man some time ago, who was well received for two 
 years among the gentlemen of Northamptonshire, by calling himself 
 my brother. At last he grew so impudent, as by his influence to get 
 tenants turned out of their farms. Allen, the printer, who is of that 
 county, came to me, asking, with much appearance of doubtfulness, 
 if I had a brother ; and upon being assured I had none alive, he told 
 me of the imposition, and immediately Avrote to the country, and the 
 fellow was dismissed. It pleased me to hear that so much was got 
 by using my name. It is not every name that can carry double do 
 both for a man's self and his brother (laughing). I should be glad 
 to see the fellow. However, I could have done nothing against him. 
 A man can have no redress for his name being used, or ridiculous 
 stories being told of him in the newspapers, except he can show that 
 he has suffered damage. Some years ago, a foolish piece was pub- 
 lished, said to be written l>y S. Johnson. Some of my friends wanted 
 me to be very angry about this. I said, it would be in vain ; for the 
 answer would be, ' S. Johnson may be Simon Johnson, or Simeon 
 Johnson, or Solomon Johnson;' and even if the full name, Samuel 
 Johnson, had been used, it might be said : ' It is not you ; it is a much 
 cleverer fellow.' 
 
 " Beauclerk and I, and Langton, and Lady Sydney Beauclerk, 
 mother to our friend, were one day driving in a coach by Cuper's 
 
 * Johnson's detention in Coll had apparently been talked of; for Pennant, in his 
 " Second Tour in Scotland," published in 1774,. before Johnson's " Journey " appeared, 
 thus sarcastically alludes to it: " Separated from Tirey by a small sound is the Isle 
 of Coll, still more celebrated for being the place where Dr. Samuel Johnson had long 
 and woeful experience of oats being the food of man in Scotland, as they are of horses 
 in England." Johnson did not pass this over in his " Journey." He remarks: "We 
 were at Coll, under the protection of the young laird, without any of tha distresses 
 which Mr. Pennant, in a fit of simple credulity, seems to think almost worthy of 
 an elegy by Ossian." ED.
 
 230 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Gardens, which were then unoccupied.* I, in sport, proposed that 
 Beauclerk, and Langton, and myself should take them: and we amused 
 ourselves with scheming how we should all do our parts. Lady 
 Sydney grew angry, 'and said, ' An old man should not put such 
 things in young people's heads.' She had no notion of a joke, sir : 
 had come late into life; and had a mighty unpliable understanding. 
 
 "Carte's ' Life of the Duke of Ormond' is considered as a book of 
 authority ; but it is ill-written. The matter is diffused in too many 
 words; there is no animation, no compression, no vigour. Two good 
 volumes in duodecimo might be made out of the two in folio." 
 
 Talking of our confinement here, I observed, that our discontent 
 and impatience could not be considered as very unreasonable ; for that 
 we were just in the state of which Seneca complains so grievously, 
 while in exile in Corsica. " Yes, (said Dr. Johnson,) and he was not 
 further from hoeie than we are." The truth is, he was much nearer, f 
 
 There was a good deal of rain to-day, and the wind was still con- 
 trary. Corneck attended me, while I amused myself in examining a 
 collection of papers belonging to the family of Col. The first laird 
 was a younger son of the Chieftain Maclean, and got the middle part 
 of Col for his patrimony. Dr. Johnson having given a very particular 
 account of the connection between this family and a branch of the 
 family of Camerons, called M'Lonich, I shall only insert the following 
 document (which I found in Col's cabinet), as a proof of its continu- 
 ance, even to a late period : 
 
 TO THE LAIRD OF COL. 
 
 DEAR SIR, The long-standing tract of firm affectionate friendship 'twist your 
 worthy predecessors and ours affords us such assurance, as that we may have full rely- 
 ance on your favour and undoubted friendship, in recommending the bearer, Ewen 
 Cameron, our cousin, son to the deceast Dugall M'Connill of Innermaillie, sometime in 
 Glenpean, to your favour and conduct, who is a man of undoubted honesty and dis- 
 
 * A place once noted for its fireworks, subsequently for the great resort of the pro- 
 fligate of both sexes, and so called after Boyder Cuper, a gardener in the family of 
 Thomas, Earl of Arandel. Caper's Gardens were suppressed as a place of public 
 diversion, in 1753. The present Waterloo Bridge-road runs through the very centre 
 of these gardens. (Cunningham's Handbook for London.) ED. 
 
 t Boswell had previously, in his " History of Corsica," quoted the epigrams of 
 Seneca, in which the philosopher complains of the sea-girt rocks aad deserts of his 
 place of exile. But the travellers temporarily detained in the Isle of Coll were not 
 "just in the state" of Seneca, who was banished from Rome, and kept in exile about 
 eight years ! It was better to be at the mercy of the elements for a day or two in 
 Coil's house than at the mercy of Claudius in Corsica, though the latter did happen to 
 be "much nearer home." The stoic, however, recovered his serenity, " happy in the 
 midst of those things which usually make other people miserable," and he wrote his 
 " Books of Consolatian" in Corsica. Seneca's ruined tower at Capo Corse used to be 
 shown to strangers, but a modern structure hag eclipsed it in interest and fame the 
 patrimonial house of Napoleon at Ajaccio. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 237 
 
 cretion, only that he has the misfortune of being alledged to Lave been accessory to the 
 killing of one of M'Martin's family about fourteen years ago, upon which alledgeance 
 t'ie M'Martins are now so sanguine on revenging, that they are fully resolved for the 
 deprivation of his life ; to the preventing of which you are relyed on by us, as the only 
 lit instrument, and a most capable person. Therefore your favour and protection is 
 expected and intreated, during his good behaviour ; and failing of which behaviour 
 you'll please to use him as a most insignificant person deserves. 
 
 Sir, he had, upon the alledgeance aforesaid, been transported, at Locliiei's desire, 
 to France, to gratify the M'Martins, and upon his return home, about five years ago, 
 married : But now he is so much threatened by the M'Martins, that he is not secure 
 enough to stay where he is, being Ardmurchan, which occasions this trouble to you. 
 Wishing prosperity and happiness to attend still yourself, worthy lady, and good 
 family, we are, in the most affection ate manner, 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 Your most obliged affectionate, and most humble servants, 
 
 DUGALL CAMERON, of Strone. 
 
 DUGALL CAMERON, of Barr. 
 
 DUGALL CAMERON, of Inveriskvoulline. 
 
 DUGALL CAMERON, of Invinvalie. 
 Strone, llth March, 1737. 
 
 Ewen Cameron was protected, and his son has now a farm from 
 the Laird of Col, in Mull. 
 
 The family of Col was veiy loyal in the time of the great Mon- 
 trose, from whom I found two letters in his own hand-writing. The 
 first is as follows : 
 
 FOR MY VERY LOVING FRIEND THE LAIRD OF COALL. 
 
 SIR, I must heartily thank you for all your willingness and good affection to his 
 Majesty's service, and particularly the sending alongs of your sou, to who I will heave 
 ane particular respect, hopeing also that you will still continue ane goode instrument 
 for the advanceing ther of the King's service, for which, and all your former loyal 
 carriages, be confident you shall find the effects of his Ma.'s favour, as they can be 
 witnessed you by Your very faithful friende, 
 
 MONTROSE. 
 
 Strethearne, 20th Jan., 1G46. 
 
 The other is 
 
 FOR THE LAIRD OF COL. 
 
 SIR, Having occasion to write to your fields, I cannot be forgetful of your 
 willingness and good affection to his Majesty's service. I acknowledge to you, and 
 thank you. heartily for it, assuring, that in what lies in my power, you shall find the 
 good. Meanwhile, I shall expect that you will continue your loyal endeavours, in 
 wishing those slack people that are about you to appear more obedient than they do, 
 Jind loyal in their prince's service; whereby I assure you, you shall find me ever 
 
 Your faithful friend, 
 
 MovrnosE.* 
 Petty, 17th April, 1646. 
 
 * It is observable that men of the first rank spelt very ill in tho last century. In 
 the first of these letters I have preserved the original spelling. BOSWELL.
 
 338 JOURNAL OF A TOUll 
 
 I found some uncouth, lines on the death of the present laird's 
 father, intituled, "Nature's Elegy upon the Death of Donald Maclean, 
 of Col." They are not worth insertion. I shall only give what is 
 called his Epitaph, which Dr. Johnson said " was not so very bad." 
 
 " Nature's minion, Virtue's wonder, 
 Art's corrective here lyes under." 
 
 I asked what " Art's corrective" meant, " Why, sir," said he, 
 " that the laird was so exquisite, that he set art right, when she was 
 wrong." 
 
 I found several letters to the late Col, from my father's old com- 
 panion at Paris, Sir Hector Maclean, one of which was written at the 
 time of settling the colony in Georgia. It dissuades Col from letting 
 people go there, and assures him there will soon be an opportunity 
 of employing them better at home. Hence it appears that emigration 
 from the Highlands, though not in such numbers at a time as of 
 late, has always been practised. Dr. Johnson observed, that " the 
 lairds, instead of improving their country, diminished their people." 
 
 There are several districts of sandy desert in Col. There are forty- 
 eight lochs of fresh water; but many of them are very small, mere 
 pools. About one-half of them, however, have trout and eel. There 
 is a great number of horses in the island, mostly of a small size. Being 
 overstocked, they sell some in Tir-yi, and on the main-land. Their 
 black cattle, which are chiefly rough-haired, are reckoned remarkably 
 good. The climate being very mild in winter, they never put their 
 beasts into any house. The lakes are never frozen so as to bear a 
 man ; and snow never lies above a few hours. They have a good 
 many sheep, which they eat mostly themselves, and sell but a few. 
 They have goats in several places. There are no foxes ; no serpents, 
 toads, or frogs, nor any venomous creature. They have otters and 
 mice here ; but had no rats till lately that an American vessel brought 
 them. There is a rabbit-warren on the north-cast of the island, be- 
 longing to the Duke of Argyl. Young Col intends to get some hares, 
 of which there are none at present.* There arc no black-cock, muir- 
 fowl, nor partridges ; but there are snipe, wild-duck, wild-geese, and 
 swans, in winter; wild-pigeons, plover, and great number of starlings, 
 of which I shot some, and found them pretty good eating. Wood- 
 cocks come hither, though there is not a tree upon the island. There 
 are no rivers in Col, but only some brooks, in which there is a great 
 variety of fish. In the whole isle there are but three hills, and none 
 
 * Hares were not introduced till about 1820. The island abounds with rabbits, and 
 it still enjoys its exemption from venomous reptiles. The rattle reared in Coll are con- 
 sidered of a superior quality, and about two hundred are annually exported to the 
 south. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 239 
 
 of them considerable for a Highland country. The people are very 
 industrious ; every man can tan. They get oak, and birch-bark, and 
 lime from the main-land. Some have pits, but they commonly use 
 tubs. I saw brogues very well tanned ; and every man can make 
 them. They all make candles of the tallow of their beasts, both 
 moulded and dipped ; and they all make oil of the livers of fish. The 
 little fish called cuddies produce a -great deal. They sell some oil out 
 of the island, and they use it much for light in their houses, in little 
 iron lamps, most of which they have from England ; but of late their 
 own blacksmith makes them. He is a good workman ; but he has 
 no employment in shoeing horses, for they all go unshod here, except 
 some of a better kind belonging to young Col, which were now in 
 Mull. There arc two carpenters in Col ; but most of the inhabitants 
 can do something as boat-carpenters. They can all dye. Heath is 
 used for yellow ; and for red, a moss which grows on stones. They 
 make broad-cloth, and tartan, and linen, of their own wool and ftax, 
 sufficient for their own use ; as also stockings. Their bonnets eonie 
 from the main-land. Hardware and several small articles are brought 
 annually from Greenock, and sold in the only shop in the island, 
 which is kept near the house, or rather hut, used for public worship, 
 there being no church in the island.* The inhabitants of Col have in- 
 creased considerably within these thirty years, as appears from the 
 parish-registers. There arc but three considerable tacksmen on Col's 
 part of the island ; the rest is let to small tenants, some of whom pay 
 so low a rent as four, three, or even two guineas, f The highest is 
 seven pounds, paid by a farmer, whose son goes yearly on foot to 
 Aberdeen for education, and in summer returns, and acts as a school- 
 master in Col. Dr. Johnson said, " There is something noble in a 
 young man's walking two hundred miles and back again every year, 
 for the sake of learning."! 
 
 This day a number of people came to Col, with complaints of each 
 others' trespasses. Corneck, to prevent their being troublesome, told 
 them that the lawyer from Edinburgh was here, and if they did not 
 
 * A church has subsequently been erected. ED. 
 
 t In 1847, when measures were taken for the relief of the destitute districts in the 
 Highlands, it was found that the population of Coll was 1440; of these 100 tenants 
 paid rent ; there were 90 cottars and 50 paupers. Much has been done in the reclama- 
 tion of waste land. The islanders also prosecute fishing, but on a very limited scale. 
 ED. 
 
 } The student alluded to, Mr. Maclean, afterwards became minister of the parish 
 of Small Isles in the Hebrides. Shortly after his return to England, Johnson kindly 
 sent Mr. Maclean a copy of his Dictionary, addressed to him in the author's hand- 
 writing. The book is still carefully preserved. Mr. Maclean had two sons, both of 
 whom are ministers in the church of Scotland. ED.
 
 S40 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 agree, he would take them to task. They were alarmed at this ; said 
 they had never been used to go to law, and hoped Col would settle 
 matters himself. In the evening Corneck left us. 
 
 SATURDAY, OCTOBER 9. 
 
 As, in our present confinement, anything that had even the name 
 of curious was an object of attention, I proposed that Col should show 
 me the great stone mentioned in a former page as having been thrown 
 by a giant to the top of a mountain. Dr. Johnson, who did not like 
 to be left alone, said he would accompany us as far as riding was 
 practicable. We ascended a part of the hill on horseback, and Col 
 and I scrambled up the rest. A servant led our horses, and Dr. 
 Johnson placed himself on the ground, with his back against a large 
 fragment of rock. The wind being high, he let down the cocks of 
 his hat, and tied it with his handkerchief under his chin. While wo 
 were employed in examining the stone, which did not repay our 
 trouble in getting to it, he amused himself with reading " Gataker 
 on Lots, and on the Christian Watch," a very learned book of the last 
 age [published in 1616], which had been found in the garret of Col's 
 house, and which he said was a treasure here. When we descried 
 him from above, he had a most eremitical appearance ; and on our 
 return, told us he had been so much engaged by Gataker, that he had 
 never missed us. His avidity for variety of books, while we were in 
 Col, was frequently expressed ; and he often complained that so few 
 were within his reach. Upon which I observed to him, that it was 
 strange he should complain of want of books, when he could at any 
 time make such good ones. 
 
 We next proceeded to the lead-mine. In our way, we came to a 
 strand of some extent, where we were glad to take a gallop, in which 
 my learned friend joined with great alacrity. Dr. Johnson, mounted 
 on a large bay mare without shoes, and followed by a foal, which had 
 some difficulty in keeping up with him, was a singular spectacle. 
 
 After examining the mine, we returned through a very uncouth 
 district, full of sand-hills, down which, though apparent precipices, 
 our horses carried us with safety, the sand always gently sliding away 
 from their feet. Vestiges of houses were pointed out to us, which 
 Col, and two others who had joined us, asserted had been overwhelmed 
 with sand blown over them. But, on going close to one of them, 
 Dr. Johnson showed the absurdity of the notion, by remarking, that 
 " it was evidently only a house abandoned, the stones of which had 
 been taken away for other purposes ; for the large stones, which form 
 the lower part of the walls, were still standing higher than the sand. 
 If they were not blown over, it was clear nothing higher than they
 
 TO TI1E HEBRIDES. 841 
 
 could be blown over." This was quite convincing to me ; but it made 
 not the least impression on Col and the others, who were not to be 
 argued out of a Highland tradition. 
 
 We did not sit down to dinner till between six and seven. We 
 lived plentifully here, and had a true welcome. In such a season, 
 good filing was of no small importance. The peats were excellent, 
 and burned cheerfull}'. Those at Dunvegan, which were damp, Dr. 
 Johnson called " a sullen fuel." Here a Scottish phrase was singularly 
 applied to him. One of the company having remarked that he had 
 gone out on a stormy evening, and brought in a supply of peats from 
 the stack, old Mr. Macsweyn said, " That was main honest .'" 
 
 Blenheim being occasionally mentioned, he told me he had never 
 seen it : he had not gone formerly, and he would not go now, just as 
 a common spectator, for his money : he would not put it in the power 
 of some man about the Duke of Maiiborough to say, " Johnson was 
 here ; I knew him, but I took no notice of him." He said he should 
 be very glad to see it, if properly invited, which, in all probability, 
 would never be the case, as it was not worth his while to seek for it. 
 I observed, that he might be easily introduced there by a common 
 friend of ours, nearly related to the duke. He answered, with an 
 uncommon attention to delicacy of feeling, " I doubt whether our 
 friend be on such a footing with the duke as to carry any body there; 
 and I would not give him the uneasiness of seeing that I knew he 
 was not, or even of being himself reminded of it."* 
 
 SUNDAY, OCTOBER 10. 
 
 There was this day the most terrible storm of wind and rain that 
 I ever remember. It made such an awful impression on us all, as to 
 produce, for some time, a kind of dismal quietness in the house. The 
 day was passed without much conversation : only, upon my observing 
 that there must be something bad in a man's mind who does not like 
 to give leases to his tenants, but wishes to keep them in a perpetual 
 wretched dependence on his will, Dr. Johnson said, " You are right : 
 it is a man's duty to extend comfort and security among as many 
 people as he can. He should not wish to have his tenants mere 
 Ephemera- mere beings of an hour." BOSWELL : " But, sir, if they 
 
 * Topham Beauclerk, the common friend of Johnson and Boswell, was married to 
 the Duke of Marlborough's sister, after her diverse from Lord Bolingbroke. The 
 (lake would not be inclined, as Johnson surmised, to relish an introduction from 
 each a source. Johnson, however, visited Blenheim in the coarse of his tour to Wales 
 with Mr., Mr3., and Miss Thrale, in the summer of 1774. In his notes of this tour, first 
 published by Mr. Duppa, in 1816, Johnson says, " We saw Blenheim and Woodstock 
 t'avk. The park contains 2,500 acres about four square miles ; it has red deer. Mr. 
 Bryant showed me the library with great civility." ED. 
 
 Q
 
 242 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 have leases, is there not some danger that they may grow insolent? 
 I remember you yourself once told me, an English tenant was so 
 independent, that, if provoked, he would throw his rent at his land- 
 lord." JOHNSON : " Depend upon it, sir, it is the landlord's own fault 
 if it is thrown at him. A man may always keep his tenants in depen- 
 dence enough, though they have leases. He must be a good tenant, 
 indeed, who will not fall behind in his rent, if his landlord will let 
 him ; and, if he does fall behind, his landlord has him at his mei'cy. 
 Indeed, the poor man is always much at the mercy of the rich, no 
 matter whether landlord or tenant. If the tenant lets his landlord 
 have a little rent before-hand, or has lent him money, then the land- 
 lord is in his power. There cannot be a greater man than a tenant 
 who has lent money to his landlord ; for he has under subjection the 
 very man to whom he should be subjected." 
 
 MONDAY, OCTOBER 11. 
 
 We had some days ago engaged the Campbelltown vessel to 
 carry us to Mull, from the harbour where she lay. The morning 
 was fine, and the wind fair and moderate; so we hoped at length to 
 get away. 
 
 Mrs. Macsweyn, who officiated as our landlady here, had never 
 been on the main-land. On hearing this, Dr. Johnson said to me, 
 before her, " That is rather being behind-hand with life. I would at 
 least go and see Glenelg." BOSWELL : " You yourself, sir, have never 
 seen anything but your native island." JOHNSON : " But, sir, by 
 seeing London, I have seen as much of life as the world can shew." 
 BOSWELL : " You have not seen Pekin." JOHNSON : " What is Pekin ? 
 Ten thousand Londoners would drive all the people of Pekin : they 
 would drive them like deer." 
 
 We set out about eleven for the harbour ; but, before we reached 
 it, so violent a storm came on, that we were obliged again to take 
 shelter in. the house of Captain Maclean, where we dined, and passed 
 the night. 
 
 TUESDAY, OCTOBER 12. 
 
 After breakfast, we made a second attempt to get to the harbour ; 
 but another storm soon convinced us that it would be in vain. Captain 
 Maclean's house being in some confusion, on account of Mrs. Maclean 
 being expected to lie-in, we resolved to go to Mr. Macsweyn's, where 
 we arrived very wet, fatigued, and hungry. In this situation, we 
 were somewhat disconcerted by being told that we should have no 
 dinner till late in the evening, but should have tea in the meantime. 
 Dr. Johnson opposed this arrangement ; but they persisted, and he 
 took the tea very readily. He said to me afterwards, " You must
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 243 
 
 consider, sir, a dinner here is a matter of great consequence. It is a 
 thing to be first planned and then executed. I suppose the mutton 
 was brought some miles off, from some place where they knew there 
 was a sheep killed." 
 
 Talking of the good people with whom we were, he said, " Life 
 has not got at all forward by a generation in Macsweyn's family ; for 
 the son is exactly formed upon the father. What the father says, the 
 son says ; and what the father looks, the son looks." 
 
 There being little conversation to-night, I must endeavour to re- 
 collect what I may have omitted on former occasions. When I boasted 
 at Rasay, of my independency of spirit, and that I could not be bribed 
 he said, " Yes, you may be bribed by flattery." At the Reverend Mr. 
 Maclean's, Dr. Johnson asked him if the people of Col had any super- 
 stitions. He said, " No." The cutting peats at the increase of the 
 moon was mentioned as one ; but he would not allow it, saying, it 
 was not a superstition, but a whim. Dr. Johnson would not admit 
 the distinction. There were many superstitions, he maintained, not 
 connected with religion ; and this was one of them. On Monday we 
 had a dispute at the Captain's, whether sand-hills could be fixed down 
 by art. Dr. Johnson said, " How the devil can you do it?"* but in- 
 stantly corrected himself, " How can you do it ? " I never before 
 heard him use a phrase of that nature. 
 
 He has particularities which it is impossible to explain. He never 
 
 * It is successfully done in the Hebrides, on parts of the English and Welsh coasts, 
 and in Holland, by sowing grasses. Along the western shores of the outer range of 
 the Hebrides, there are large accumulations of shell or calcareous sand, thrown up by 
 the sea and drifted inwards by the wind, which generally blows from the west. This 
 sand-drift did great damage to the more inland portions of the low adjacent grounds, 
 especially in the islands of Harris, North and South Uist, and Barra, until, about thirty 
 years since, a successful mode of treating the evil was practised by Dr. A. Macleod, 
 now of Portree. This consisted in levelling down the steep broken faces of the sand- 
 hills (always looking west or seaward), to a more gentle slope, and then covering the 
 slope with turf or sod cut off the leeward or unbroken part of the sand-bank. By this 
 means the indigenous grasses, as sand-bent (arando arenaria), wheatrgrass (triticum 
 junccuin), bed-straw (galium verum), and others, thus transferred in the sod from one 
 portion of their native sand to the other, immediately took root and spread ; while the 
 roots left in the greund where the sods were cut soon shot up and covered the spot 
 v.ith its usual verdure. Such, indeed, is the aptitude of the native roots to creep and 
 vegetate, that where the green turf is scarce it is not necessary to cover the slope 
 entirely with sods, but at distances of from twelve to eighteen inches apart. In cases 
 where there are tracts of flat sands utterly devoid of vegetation, and green turf cannot 
 be procured, bent-grass is sown in tufts, as seedling fir-trees are planted, within a 
 yard or so of each other ; and this, in a few years, is found sufficient to arrest the drift , 
 and cover the sandy desert with a luxuriant crop of green bent, which is now found to be 
 a good wintering for sheep. The Highlanders call this species of improvement 
 " curing the machar-banks" machar being a Gaelic word, synonymous with links in 
 the Lowlands of Scotland, er downs in England. In Pembrokeshire the sea-sedge 
 carex arenaria) is sown on the drifting sandy downs, and effectually answers the pur- 
 pose of binding them and covering the ground with a clase vegetable sward. ED. 
 
 Q 2
 
 314 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 wears a night- cap, as I have already mentioned ; but lie puts a hand- 
 kerchief on his head in the night. The day that we left Talisker, he 
 bade us ride on. He then turned the head of his horse back towards 
 Talisker, stopped for some time, then wheeled round to the same 
 direction with ours, and then came briskly after us. He sets open a 
 window in the coldest day or night, and stands before it. It may do 
 with his constitution ; but most people, amongst whom I am one, 
 would say, with the frogs in the fable, " This may be sport to you, 
 but it is death to us." It is in vain to try to find a meaning in every 
 one of his particularities, which, I suppose, are mere habits, contracted 
 by chance, of which every man has some that are more or less remark- 
 able. His speaking to himself, or rather repeating, is a common habit 
 with studious men accustomed to deep thinking ; and, in consequence 
 of their being thus rapt, they will even laugh by themselves, if tke 
 subject which they are musing on is a merry one. Dr. Johnson is 
 often uttering pious ejaculations, when he appears to be talking to 
 himself; for sometimes his voice grows stronger, and parts of the 
 Lord's Prayer are heard. I have sat beside him with more than 
 ordinary reverence on such occasions.* 
 
 In our Tour, I observed that he was disgusted whenever he met 
 with coarse manners. He said to me, >; I know not how it is, but I 
 cannot bear low life ; and I find others, who have as good a right as 
 I to be fastidious, bear it better, by having mixed more with different 
 sorts of men. You would think that I have mixed pretty well too." 
 
 He read this day a good deal of my Journal, written in a small 
 book with which he had supplied me, and was pleased, for he said, 
 " I wish thy books were twice as big." He helped me to fill up blanks 
 which I had left in first writing it, when I was not quite sure of what 
 iie had said, and he corrected any mistakes that I had made. " They 
 call me a scholar, (said he,) and yet how very little literature is there 
 in my conversation." BOSWELL : " That, sir, must be according to 
 your company. You would not give literature to those who cannot 
 taste it. Stay till we meet Lord Elibank." 
 
 We had at last a good dinner, or rather supper, and were very 
 well satisfied with our entertainment. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 13. 
 
 Col called me up, with intelligence that it was a good day for a 
 passage to Mull ; and, just as we rose, a sailor from the vessel arrived 
 
 * It is remarkable that Dr. Johnson should have read this account of some of his 
 ov.-n peculiar habits without saying anything on the subject, which I hoped he wonl.t 
 have done. BOSWKLL. [The late Mrs. Mackinnon, Corrichatachin,used to relate that 
 Johnson washed his handkerchiefs himself iu his bed-reom, and hung them over the 
 chairs to dry. E 0.1
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 245 
 
 for us. We got all ready with dispatch. Dr. Johnson was displeased 
 at my bustling, and walking quickly up and down, he said, " It does 
 not hasten us a bit. It is getting on horseback in a ship. All boys 
 do it ? and you are longer a boy than others." He himself has no 
 alertness, or whatever it may be called ; so he may dislike it, as 
 Oderunt hilarem tristcs. [Morose men hate the cheerful.] 
 
 Before we reached the harbour, the wind grew high again. How- 
 ever, the small boat was waiting and took us on board. We remained 
 for some time in uncertainty what to do : at last it was determined, 
 that, as a good part of the day was over, and it was dangerous to be 
 at sea at night in such a vessel and such weather, we should not sail 
 till the morning tide, when the wind would probably be more gentle. 
 We resolved not to go ashore again, but lie here in readiness. Dr. 
 Johnson and I had each a bed in the cabin. Col sat at the fire in the 
 forecastle, with the captain, and Joseph, and the rest. I eat some dry 
 oatmeal, of which I found a barrel in the cabin. I had not done this 
 since I was a boy. Dr. Johnson owned that he too was fond of it when 
 a boy a circumstance which I was highly pleased to hear from him, 
 as it gave me an opportunity of observing that, notwithstanding his 
 joke on the article of OATS, he was himself a proof that this kind of 
 food was not peculiar to the people of Scotland. 
 
 THURSDAY, OCTOBER 14. 
 
 When Dr. Johnson awaked this morning, he called, "Zay/" 
 having, I suppose, been thinking of Langton ; but corrected himself 
 instantly, and cried "Bozzy.'" He has a way of contracting the 
 names of his friends. Goldsmith feels himself so important now as to 
 be displeased at it. I remember one day, when Tom Davies was telling 
 that Dr. Johnson said, " We are all in labour for a name to Goldy's play, " 
 Goldsmith cried, " I have often desired him not to call me Goldy" 
 
 Between six and seven we hauled our anchor, and set sail with a 
 fair breeze ; and, after a pleasant voyage, we got safely and agreeably 
 into the harbour of Tobermorie before the wind rose, which it always 
 has done, for some days, about noon. 
 
 Tobermorie is an excellent harbour. An island lies before it, aud 
 it is surrounded by a hilly theatre. The island is too low, otherwise 
 this would be quite a secure port ; but, the island not being a sufficient 
 protection, some storms blow very hard here. Not long ago, fifteen 
 vessels were blown from their moorings. There are sometimes sixty 
 or seventy sail here : to-day there were twelve or fourteen vessels. 
 To see such a fleet was the next thing to seeing a town.* The vessels 
 
 * There is no\v a prosperous little town at Tobermory. The population in 1841 wa 
 1,390; ia 1851, 1,542. Ei>.
 
 246 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 were from different places Clyde, Campbelltown, Newcastle, &c. 
 One was returning to Lancaster from Hamburgh. After having been 
 shut up so long in Col, the sight of such an assemblage of moving 
 habitations, containing such a variety of people, engaged in different 
 pursuits, gave me much gaiety of spirit. When we had landed, Dr. 
 Johnson said, " Boswell is now all alive. He is like Antseus ; he gets 
 new vigour whenever he touches the ground." I went to the top of 
 a hill fronting the harbour, from whence I had a good view of it. We 
 had here a tolerable inn. Dr. Johnson had owned to me this morning, 
 that he was out of humour. Indeed, he showed it a good deal in the 
 ship; for, when I was expressing my joy on the prospect of our 
 landing in Mull, he said, he had no joy, when he recollected that it 
 would be five days before he should get to the main-land. I was 
 afraid he would now take a sudden resolution to give up seeing 
 Icolmkill. A dish of tea, and some good bread and butter, did him 
 service, and his bad humour went off. I told him, that I was diverted 
 to hear all the people whom he had visited in our Tour say, " Honest 
 man! he's pleased with every thing; he's always content!" "Little 
 do they know," said I. He laughed, and said, " You rogue !" 
 
 We sent to hire horses to carry us across the island of Mull to the 
 shore opposite to Inchkenneth, the residence of Sir Allan Maclean, 
 uncle to young Col, and Chief of the Macleans, to whose house we 
 intended to go the next day. Our friend Col went to visit his aunt, 
 the wife of Dr. Alexander Maclean, a physician, who lives about a 
 mile from Tobermorie. 
 
 Dr. Johnson and I sat by ourselves at the inn, and talked a good 
 deal. I told him, that I had found, in Leandro Alberti's Description 
 of Italy, much of what Addison has given us in his Remarks.* He 
 said, " The collection of passages from the Classics has been made by 
 another Italian ; it is, however, impossible to detect a man as a pla- 
 giary in such a case, because all who set about making such a collec- 
 tion must find the same passages ; but, if you find the same applications 
 in another book, then Addison's learning in his Remarks tumbles 
 down. It is a tedious book ; and if it were not attached to Addison's 
 previous reputation, one would not think much of it. Had he written 
 nothing else, his name would not have lived. Addison does not 
 
 * It is still read with pleasure. The style is pure and flowing, the classical quota- 
 tions and allusions are numerous and happy, and we are now and then charmed by 
 that singularly humane and delicate humour in which Addison excelled all men. Yet 
 this agreeable work, even when considered merely as the history of a literary tour, 
 may justly be censured on account of its faults of omission. Though rich in extracts 
 from the Latin poets, it contains scarcely any references to the Latin orators and his- 
 torians. We must add that it contains little, or rather no information respecting the 
 history and literature of Modern Italy. (" Macaulay's Essays," ed. 1850, p. 698.) ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 247 
 
 seem to have gone deep in Italian literature : he shows nothing of it 
 in his subsequent writings. He shows a great deal of French learn- 
 ing. There is, perhaps, more knowledge circulated in the French 
 language than in any other. There is more original knowledge in 
 English." " But the French," said I, " have the art of accommodating 
 literature." JOHNSON : " Yes, sir ; we have no such book as Moreri's 
 Dictionary." BOSWELL : " Their Ana are good." JOHNSON : " A 
 few of them are good ; but we have one book of that kind better 
 than any of them Selden's ' Table Talk.' As to original literature, 
 the French have a couple of tragic poets who go round the world, 
 Racine and Corneille, and one comic poet, Moliere." BOSWELL : 
 " They have Fenelon." JOHNSON : "Why, sir, ' Telemachus' is pretty 
 well." BOSWELL : " And Voltaire, sir." JOHNSON : " He has not 
 stood his trial yet. And what makes Voltaire chiefly circulate, is 
 collection ; such as his ' Universal History.' " BOSWELL : " What do 
 you say to the Bishop of Meaux ?" JOHNSON : " Sir, nobody reads 
 him."* He would not allow Massillon and Bordaloue to go round 
 the world. In general, however, he gave the French much praise 
 for their industry. 
 
 He asked me whether he had mentioned, in any of the papers of 
 the " Rambler," the description in Virgil of the entrance into Hell, 
 with an application to the press ; " for," said he, " I do not much 
 remember them." I told him, " No." Upon which he repeated it : 
 
 " Vestibnlum ante ipsum, primisque in faucibus Orci, 
 
 Luctus et ultrices posuere cubilia Curae ; 
 
 Pallentcsque habitant Morbi, tristisque Senectus, 
 
 Et Metus, et malesuada Fames, et turpis Egestas, . 
 
 Terribiles visu forraae ; Lethumque, Laborque." f 
 
 " Now," said he, " almost all these apply exactly to an author, 
 all these are the concomitants of a printing-house." I proposed to 
 him to dictate an essay on it, and offered to write it. He said, he 
 would not do it then, but perhaps would write one at some future 
 period. 
 
 The Sunday evening that we sat by ourselves at Aberdeen, I 
 asked him several particulars of his life, from his early years, which 
 he readily told me ; and I wrote them down before him. This day 
 
 * I take leave to enter my strongest protest against this judgment. Bossnet I hold 
 to be one of the first luminaries of religion and literature. If there are who do not 
 read him, it is full time they should begin. BOSWELL. 
 
 + " Just in the gate, and in the jaws of hell, 
 Revengeful Cares, and sullen Sorrows dwell; 
 And pale Diseases, and repining Age ; 
 Want, Fear, and Famine's unresisted rage ; 
 Here Toils and Death, and Death's half-brother, Sleep, 
 Farms terrible to view, their sentry keep." DKYDKN.
 
 248 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 1 proceeded in my inquiries, also writing them in his presence. I 
 have them on detached sheets. I shall collect authentic materials for 
 THE LIFE OF SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL.D. ; and, if I survive him, I 
 shall be one who will most faithfully do honour to his memory. I 
 have now a vast treasure of his conversation, at different times, since 
 the year 1762. when I first obtained his acquaintance; and, by assidu- 
 ous inquiry, I can make up for not knowing him sooner.* 
 
 A Newcastle ship-master, who happened to be in the house, 
 intruded himself upon us. He was much in liquor, and talked non- 
 sense about his being a man for Willies and Liberty, and against the 
 ministry. Dr. Johnson was angry, " that a fellow should come into 
 our company, who was fit for no company." He left us soon. 
 
 Col returned from his aunt, and told us, she insisted that we 
 should come to her house that night. He introduced to us Mr. 
 Campbell, the Duke of Argyle's factor in Tyr-yi. He was a genteel, 
 agreeable man. He was going to Inverary, and promised to put 
 letters into the post-office for us. I now found that Dr. Johnson's 
 desire to get on the main-land, arose from his anxiety to have an 
 opportunity of conveying letters to his friends. 
 
 After dinner we proceeded to Dr. Maclean's, which was about a 
 mile from our inn. He was not at home, but we were received by his 
 lady and daughter, who entertained us so well, that Dr. Johnson 
 seemed quite happy. When we had supped, he asked me to give him 
 some paper to write letters. I begged he would write short ones, 
 and not expatiate, as we ought to set off early. He was irritated by 
 this, and said, " What must be done, must be done : the thing is past 
 a joke." "Nay, sir," said I, "write as much as you please; but do 
 not blame me, if we are kept six days before we get to the main-land. 
 You were very impatient in the morning ; but no sooner do you find 
 yourself in good quarters, than you forget that you are to move." I 
 got him paper enough, and we parted in good humour. 
 
 Let me now recollect whatever particulars I have omitted. In 
 the morning I said to him, before we landed at Tobermorie, " We 
 shall see Dr. Maclean, who has written the history of the Macleans."f 
 
 * It is no small satisfaction to me to reflect, that Dr. Johnson read this, and, after 
 being apprised of m.r intention, communicated to me, at subsequent periods, many 
 particulars of his life, which probably could not otherwise have been preserved. 
 BOSWELL. 
 
 + Dr. Maclean in his hiitory thus mentions his own descent : "Lauchlan Maclean, 
 of Grulin, was married to Janet, daughter of John Macleod, of Cantulick, tutor of 
 Macleoil, and Isobel, daughter of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, of Scatwell, by whom he 
 had Hector, married to Catherine, only daughter of Donald Maclean, of Coll." Dr. 
 Hector Maclean lived at the farm of En-ay, near Toberinory. He died about 1785, anil 
 after his death his widow resided with her nephew, the Laird of Coll, young Coil's- 
 brother. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 219 
 
 JOHNSON : " I have no great patience to stay to hear the history of 
 the Macleans. I would rather hear the history of the Thrales." 
 When on Mull, I said, " Well, sir, this is the fourth of the Hehrides 
 that we have been upon." JOHNSON : " Nay, we cannot boast of 
 the number we have seen. We thoxight we should see many more. 
 We thought of sailing about easily from island to island ; and so we 
 should, had we come at a better season ; but we, being wise men, 
 thought it would be summer all the year, where ice were. However, 
 sir, we have seen enough to give us a pretty good notion of the system 
 
 of insular life." 
 
 Let me not forget, that he sometimes amused himself with very 
 slight reading ; from which, however, his conversation showed that 
 he contrived to extract some benefit. At Captain Maclean's he read 
 a good deal \a " The Charmer," a collection of songs. 
 
 FRIDAY, OCTOBER lo. 
 
 We this morning found that we could not proceed, there being a 
 violent storm of wind and rain, and the rivers being impassable. 
 When I expressed ray discontent at our confinement, Dr. Johnson 
 said, " Now that I have had an opportunity of writing to the main- 
 land, I am in no such haste." I was amused with his being so easily 
 satisfied ; for the truth was, that -the gentleman who was to convey 
 our letters, as I was now informed, was not to set out for Inverary 
 for some time ; so that it was probable we should be there as soon 
 as he : however, I did not undeceive my friend, but suffered him to 
 enjoy his fancy. 
 
 Dr. Johnson asked, in the evening, to see Dr. Maclean's books. 
 He took down Willis de Anima Brut-arum, and pored over it a good 
 deal. 
 
 Miss Maclean produced some Erse poems by John Maclean, who 
 was a famous bard in Mull, and had died only a few years ago. He 
 could neither read nor write. She read and translated two of them : 
 one, a kind of elegy on Sir John Maclean's being obliged to fly his 
 country in I7lo; another a dialogue between two Itoman Catholic 
 young ladies, sisters, whether it was better to be a nun or to marry. 
 I could not perceive much poetical imagery in the translation. Yet 
 all of our company who understood Erse, seemed charmed with the 
 original. There may, perhaps, be some choice of expression, and 
 some excellence of arrangement, that cannot be shown in translation. 
 
 After we had exhausted the Erse poems, of which Dr. Johnson 
 said nothing, Miss Maclean gave us several tunes on a spinnet, which, 
 though made so long ago, as in 1667, was still very well toned. She 
 sung along with it. Dr. Johnson seemed pleased with the music,
 
 250 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 though he owns he neither likes it, nor has hardly any perception of 
 it. At Mr. Macpherson's, in Slate, he told us that "he knew a 
 a drum from a trumpet, and a bagpipe from a guitar, which was 
 about the extent of his knowledge of music." To-night he said, that, 
 "if he had learnt music, he should have been afraid he would have 
 done nothing else but play. It was a method of employing the 
 mind without the labour of thinking at all, and with some applause 
 from a man's self." 
 
 We had the music of the bagpipe every day, at Armidale, Dun- 
 vegan, and Col. Dr. Johnson appeared fond of it, and used often to 
 stand for some time with his ear close to the great drone. 
 
 The penurious gentleman of our acquaintance, formerly alluded 
 to [Sir Alexander Macdonald] afforded us a topic of conversation to- 
 night. Dr. Johnson said, I ought to write down a collection of the 
 instances of his narrowness, as they almost exceeded belief. Col 
 told us, that O'Kane, the famous Irish harper, was once at that gen- 
 tleman's house. He could not find in his heart to give him any 
 money, but gave him a key for a harp, which was finely ornamented 
 with gold and silver, and with a precious stone, and was worth eighty 
 or a hundred guineas. He did not know the value of it ; and when 
 he came to know it, lie would fain have had it back ; but O'Kane 
 took care that he should not. JOHNSON : " They exaggerate the 
 value ; everybody is so desirous that he should be fleeced. I am very 
 willing it should be worth eighty or a hundred guineas ; but I do not 
 believe it." BOSWELL : " I do not think O'Kane was obliged to give 
 it back." JOHNSON : " No, sir. If a man with his eyes open, and 
 without any means used to deceive him, gives me a thing, I am not 
 to let him have it again when he grows wiser. I like to see how 
 avarice defeats itself: how, when avoiding to part with money, the 
 miser gives something more valuable." Col said, the gentleman's 
 relations were angry at his giving away the harp-key, for it had been 
 long in the family. JOHNSON : " Sir he values a new guinea more 
 than an old friend." 
 
 Col also told us, that the same person having come up with a 
 serjeant and twenty men, working on the high road, he entered into 
 discourse with the serjeant, and then gave him sixpence for the men 
 to drink. The serjeant asked, " Who is this follow ?" Upon being 
 informed, he said, " If I had known who he was, I should have thrown 
 it in his face." JOHNSON : " There is much want of sense in all this. 
 He had no business to speak with the serjeant. He might have been 
 in haste, and trotted on. He has not learnt to be a miser. I believe 
 we must take him apprentice." BOSWELL : " He would grudge 
 giving half a guinea to be taught." JOHNSON : " Nay, sir, you must
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 8M 
 
 teach him gratis. You must give him an opportunity to practise 
 your precepts." 
 
 Let me now go back, and glean Johnsoniana. The Saturday be- 
 fore we sailed from Slate, I sat awhile in the afternoon, with Dr. 
 Johnson in his room, in a quiet serious frame. I observed that hardly 
 any man was accurately prepared for dying; but -almost every one 
 left something undone something in confusion; that my father, 
 indeed, told me he knew one man, (Carlyle of Limekilns,) after 
 whose death all his papers were found in exact order ; and nothing 
 was omitted in his will. JOHNSON : " Sir, I had an uncle who died 
 so ; but such attention requires great leisure, and great firmness of 
 mind. If one was to think constantly of death, the business of life 
 would stand still. I am no friend to making religion appear too 
 hard. Many good people have done harm by giving severe notions 
 of it. In the same way, as to learning : I never frighten young 
 people with difficulties ; on the contrary, I tell them that they may 
 very easily get as much as will do very well. I do not, indeed, tell 
 them that they will be Bentleys." 
 
 The night we rode to Col's house, I said, " Lord Elibank is pro- 
 bably wondering what has become of us." JOHNSON : " No, no ; he 
 is not thinking of us." BOSWELL : " But recollect the warmth with 
 which he wrote. Are we not to believe a man, when he says he has 
 a great desire to see another? Do n't you believe that I was very 
 impatient for your coming to Scotland?" JOHNSON : "Yes, sir; I 
 believe you were ; and I was impatient to come to you. A young 
 man feels so, but seldom an old man." I, however convinced him 
 that Lord Elibank, who has much of the spirit of a young man, 
 might feel so. He asked me if our jaunt had answered expectation. 
 I said it had much exceeded it. I expected much difficulty with 
 him, and had not found it. "And," he added, "wherever we 
 have come, we have been received like princes in their pro- 
 gress." 
 
 He said he would not wish not to be disgusted in the Highlands ; 
 for that would be to lose the power of distinguishing, and a man 
 might then lie down in the middle of them. He wished only to 
 conceal his disgust. 
 
 . At Captain Maclean's, I mentioned Pope's friend, Spence. 
 JOHNSON : "he was a weak, conceited man."* BOSWELL : " A good 
 
 * Mr. Langton thinks this must have been the hasty expression of a splenetic 
 moment, as he has heard Dr. Johnson speak of Mr. Spence s judgment in criticism 
 with so high a degree of respect as to show that this was not his settled opinion of 
 him. Let me add that in tke preface to the " Preceptor," he recommends Spence's 
 " Essay on Pope's Odyssey," and that his admirable " Lives of the English Poets" are 
 much enriched by Spence's Anecdotes of Pope. BOSWELL.
 
 252 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 scholar, sir ?" JOHNSON : " Why, no, sir." BOSWELL : " He was a 
 pretty scholar." JOHNSON : " You have about reached him." 
 
 Last night at the inn, when the factor in Tyr-yi spoke of his 
 having heard that a roof was put on some part of the building at 
 Icolmkill, I unluckily said, " It will be fortunate if we find a cathe- 
 dral with a roof on it." I said this from a foolish anxiety to engage 
 Dr. Johnson's curiosity more. He took me short at once. " What, 
 sir ? how can you talk so ? If we shall find a cathedral roofed ! as 
 if we were going to a terra incognita : when everything that is at 
 Icolmkill is so well known. You are like some New-England-men 
 who came to the mouth of the Thames. ' Come.' said they, ' let us 
 go up and see what sort of inhabitants there are here.' They talked, 
 sir, as if they had been to go up the Susquehannah, or any other 
 American river." 
 
 SATURDAY, OCTOBER 16. 
 
 This day there was a new moon, and. the weather changed for 
 the better. Dr. Johnson said of Miss Maclean, " She is the most 
 accomplished lady that I have found in the Highlands. She knows 
 French, music, and drawing, sews neatly, makes shell-work, and 
 can milk cows ; in short, she can do every thing. She talks sensibly, 
 and is the first person whom I have found that can translate Erse 
 poetry literally."* We set out, mounted on little Mull horses. 
 Mull corresponded exactly with the idea which I had always had 
 of it; a hilly country, diversified with heath and grass and many 
 rivulets. Dr. Johnson was not in a very good humour. He said, 
 it was a dreary country, much worse than Sky. I differed from 
 him. '' O, sir, (said he), a most dolorous country!'' , 
 
 We had a very hard journey to-day. I had no bridle for my 
 sheltie, but only a halter ; and Joseph rode without a saddle. At 
 one place, a loch having swelled over the road, we were obliged to 
 plunge through pretty deep water. Dr. Johnson observed, how help- 
 less a man would be, were he travelling here alone, and should 
 meet with any accident ; and said, " he longed to get to a country 
 of saddles and bridles." He was more out of humour to-day, than 
 
 * The subsequent history of this young lady was unfortunate. She conceived a 
 \varm attachment for a Mr. Duncan Mackenzie, of Arcs, whom her friends conceived 
 to be much inferior to her in rank and acquirements. In deference to her father's 
 feelings, Miss Maclean continued single for many years ; but after his death she was 
 united to Mr. Mackenzie, June 6th, 1786. They resided fit Toberraory, in reduced 
 circumstances, until about 1800, when Mr. Mackenzie died, without issue, and his 
 widow became a pensioner on the bounty of Coll. She died in 1826, and waa interred 
 et Kilmore, about seven miles from Tobermory, but no stone marks her grave . A 
 melancholy sequel to th bright morning of hnr life depicted by Johnson and 
 Boswell : ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 253 
 
 he has been in the course of our tour, being fretted to find that 
 his little horse could scarcely suppoi-t his weight ; and having 
 suffered a loss, which, though small in itself, was of some conse- 
 quence to him, while travelling the rugged steeps of Mull, where 
 he was at times obliged to walk. The loss that I allude to was 
 that of the large oak-stick, which, as I formerly mentioned, he 
 had brought with him from London. It was of great use to him 
 in our wild peregrination; for, ever since his last illness in 176G, 
 he has had a weakness in his knees, and has not been able to walk 
 easily. It had too the properties of a measure ; for one nail was 
 driven into it at the length of a foot; another tit that of a yard. 
 In return for the services it had done him, he said, this morning 
 ho would make a present of it to some museum ; but he little 
 thought he was so soon to lose it. As he preferred riding with ti 
 switch, it was entrusted to a fellow to be delivered to our baggage- 
 man, who followed us at some distance ; but we never saw it more. 
 I could not persuade him out of a suspicion that it had been stolen. 
 " No, no, my friend (said he), it is not to be expected that any 
 man in Mull, who has got it, will part with it. Consider, sir, the 
 value of such a piacc of timber here !" 
 
 As we travelled this morning, we met Dr. Maclean, who ex- 
 pressed much regret at his having been so unfortunate as to be 
 absent while we were at his house. 
 
 We were in hopes to get to Sir Allan Maclean's at Inchkenneth, 
 to-night ; but the eight miles, of which our road was said to consist, 
 were so very long, that we did not reach the opposite coast of Mull 
 till seven at night, though we had set out about eleven in the fore- 
 noon ; and when we did arrive there, we found the wind strong 
 against us. Col determined that we should pass the night at Mac- 
 quarrie's, in the island of Ulva, which lies between Mull and Inch- 
 kenneth ; and a servant was sent forward to the ferry, to secure the 
 boat for us : but the boat was gone to the Ulva side, and the wind 
 was so high that the people could not hear him call ; and the night 
 so dark that they could not see a signal. We should have been in a 
 very bad situation, had there not fortunately been lying in the little 
 sound of Ulva an Irish vessel, the Sonnetta, of Londonderry, Captain 
 Maclure, master. He himself was at Macquarrie's ; but his men 
 obligingly came with their long boat, and ferried us over. 
 
 Macquarrie's house was mean ; but we were agreeably surprised 
 with the appearance of the master, whom we found to be intelligent, 
 polite, and much a man of the world. Though his clan is not 
 numerous, he is a very ancient chief, and has a burial-place at 
 Icolmkill. He told us his family had possessed Ulva for nine
 
 254 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 hundred years ; but I was distressed to hear that it was soon to be 
 sold for payment of his debts. 
 
 Captain Maclure, whom we found here, was of Scotch extraction, 
 and properly a Macleod, being descended of some of the Macleods 
 who went with Sir Norman of Bernera to the battle of Worcester ; 
 and after the defeat of the royalists, fled to Ireland, and, to conceal 
 themselves, took a different name. He told me, there was a great 
 number of them about Londonderry ; some of good property. I said, 
 they should now resume their real name. The Laird of Macleod 
 should go over, and assemble them, and make them all drink the 
 large horn full, and from that time they should be Macleods. The 
 captain informed us, he had named his ship the Bonnetta, out of 
 gratitude to Providence ; for once, when he was sailing to America 
 with a good number of passengers, the ship in which he then sailed 
 was becalmed for five weeks, and during all that time, numbers of 
 the fish Bonnetta swam close to her, and were caught for food; he 
 resolved, therefore, that the ship he should next get, should be called 
 the Bonnetta. 
 
 Macquarrie told us a strong instance of the second sight. He 
 had gone to Edinburgh, and taken a man-servant along with him. 
 An old woman, who was in the house, said one day, " Macquarrie 
 will be at home to-morrow, and will bring two gentlemen with him;" 
 and she said she saw his servant return in red and green. He did 
 come home next day. He had two gentlemen with him ; and his 
 servant had a new red and green livery, which Macquarrie had 
 bought for him at Edinburgh, upon a sudden thought, not having 
 the least intention when he left home to put his servant in livery; 
 so that the old woman could not have heard any previoflfe mention of 
 it. This, he assured us, was a true story. 
 
 Macquarrie insisted that the Mercheta Mulierum, mentioned in 
 our old charters, did really mean the privilege which a lord of a 
 manor, or a baron, had, to have the first night of all his vassals' 
 wives. Dr. Johnson said, the belief of such a custom having existed 
 was also held in England, where there is a tenure called Borough 
 English, by which the eldest child does not inherit, from a doubt of 
 his being the son of the tenant.* Macquarrie told us, that still, on 
 the marriage of each of his tenants, a sheep is due to him ; for which 
 the composition is fixed at five shillings. I suppose Ulva is the only 
 place where this custom remains. 
 
 Talking of the sale of an estate of an ancient family, which was 
 
 * Sir William Blackstone says, in his " Commentaries," that " he cannot find that 
 ever this custom prevailed in England ;" and therefore he is of opinion that it could 
 not have given rise to Boroogh-English. Bos WELL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 255 
 
 said to have been purchased much under its value by the confidential 
 lawyer of that family, and it being mentioned that the sale would 
 probably be set aside by a suit in equity, Dr. Johnson said, " I am 
 very willing that this sale should be set aside, but I doubt much 
 whether the suit will be successful ; for the argument for avoiding 
 the sale is founded on vague and indeterminate principles as that 
 the price was too low, and that there was a great degree of confidence 
 placed by the seller in the person who became the purchaser. Now, 
 how low should a price be ? or what degree of confidence should there 
 be to make a bargain be set aside? a bargain, which is a wager of 
 skill between man and man. If, indeed, any fraud can be proved, 
 that will do." 
 
 When Dr. Johnson and I were by ourselves at night, I observed 
 of our host, " aspectum generosum habet ;" " et generosum animum" 
 he added. For fear of being overheard in the small Highland houses, 
 I often talked to him in such Latin as I could speak, and with as 
 much of the English accent as I could assume, so as not to be under- 
 stood, in case our conversation should be too loud for the space. 
 
 We had each an elegant bed in the same room ; and here it was 
 that a circumstance occurred, as to which he has been strangely mis- 
 understood. From his description of his chamber, it has erroneously 
 been supposed that, his bed being too short for him, his feet during 
 the night were in the mire ; whereas he has only said, that when he 
 undressed, he felt his feet in the mire : that is, the clay-floor of the 
 room, on which he stood before he went into bed, was wet, in conse- 
 quence of the windows being broken, which let in the rain.* 
 
 * The old Macquarrie mansion still stands, and " Johnson's room" is pointed out to 
 strangers. At a short distance from it a new and handsome house has been erected, 
 with garden, plantations, &c. The chief of the Macquarries sold his estate in 1777. 
 He had been profusely hospitable, and there was little or no reversion after his debts 
 were paid. He was sixty-two years of age. Yet with unsubdued energy the old chief 
 entered the army, senred with distinction for many years, and, returning to his native 
 country, died at Olenforsa, a valley in Mull, on the 14th of January, 1818. He had 
 attained the vast age of 103. The purchaser of Ulva was a Campbell. In 1835 it 
 became the property of Mr. Francis William Clark. This gentleman, though a Low- 
 lander, and bred a lawyer, has acquired the Gaelic language, and he made a visit to 
 Belgium in order to ascertain, by personal inquiry, whether the Belgian system of 
 petite husbandry could be adapted to the Highlands. The result of his investigation 
 was unfavourable. Ulva wants the better soil and finer climate of Belgium the close 
 vicinity of markets, and the comparative smallness of public burdens. Since the 
 failure of the kelp manufacture the rental of Ulva has dwindled down from 1 1001. 
 a-year to about 220/. and the population from 500 to 150. The proprietor states that he 
 had no alternative but either to surrender his property to the crofters, or to remove 
 them. He had purchased the property at the price of 29,500*. It was then let to 
 crofters, paying an average rent of 12*. to HI. annually, and nearly the whole of the 
 rent was paid from the wages received for manufacturing kelp. The gross rental 
 actually realized averaged 1,100*. a-year for the first four years. When kelp became 
 unsaleable, his revenue declined; and in 1816 the stipulated rental was reduced to
 
 25 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 SUNDAY, OCTOBER 17. 
 
 Being informed that there was nothing worthy of observation in 
 Ulva, we took boat and proceeded to Inchkenneth, where we were 
 introduced by our friend Col to Sir Allan Maclean, the chief of his 
 clan, and two young ladies, his daughters. Inchkenneth is a pretty 
 little island, a mile long and about half a mile broad, all good land. 
 
 As we walked up from the shore, Dr. Johnson's heart was cheered 
 by the sight of a road marked with cart-wheels, as on the main-land ; 
 a thing which we had not seen for a long time. It gave us a pleasure 
 similar to that which a traveller feels, when, whilst wandering on 
 what he fears is a desert island, he perceives the print of human feet. 
 
 Military men acquire excellent habits of having all conveniences 
 about them. Sir Allan Maclean, who had been long in the army, and 
 had now a lease of the island, had formed a commodious habitation, 
 though it consisted but of a few small buildings, only one storey high. 
 He had, in his little apartments, more things than I could enumerate 
 in a page or two. 
 
 Among other agreeable circumstances, it was not the least to find 
 here a parcel of the " Caledonian Mercury," published since we left 
 Edinburgh, which I read with that pleasure which every man feels 
 who has been for some time secluded from the animated scenes of the 
 busy world. 
 
 Dr. Johnson found books here. He bade me buy Bishop Gastrell's 
 " Christian Institutes," which was lying in the room. He said, '' I do 
 not like to read anything on a Sunday but what is theological 5 not 
 that I would scrupulously refuse to look at anything which a friend 
 should show me iu a newspaper, but, in general, I would read only 
 what is theological. I read just now some of Drummond's Travels, 
 before I perceived what books were here. I then took up Derham's 
 4 Physico-Theology .' " 
 
 Every particular concerning this island having been so well 
 described by Dr. Johnson, it would be superfluous in me to present 
 the public with the observations that I made upon it, in my Journal. 
 
 I was quite easy with Sir Allan almost instantaneously. He knew 
 the great intimacy that had been between my father and his prede- 
 cessor, Sir Hector, and was himself of a very frank disposition. After 
 
 4701. 15*. Gd., but the crofters were barely able to maintain themselves with the aid 
 they received, and could pay no rent. He expended 1,000/. on drainage and other im- 
 provements, chiefly with a view to give employment to the inhabitants. In the four 
 years, 1846-49, he had expended in wages of labour and gratuities, not only all the 
 revenue derived from it, but 3671. from other sources. In 149 the removal of the 
 crofters was completed, and in 1850 he had a clear revenue of 22R, with the prospect 
 of its increasing. See Sir John M'Neill's report on the Highlands. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 257 
 
 dinner, Sir Allan said he had got Dr. Campbell about a hundred sub- 
 scribers to his " Britannica Elucidata," (a work since published under 
 the title of " A Political Survey of Great Britain,") of whom lie believed 
 twenty were dead, the publication having been so long delayed. 
 JOHXSOX : " Sir, I imagine the delay of publication is owing to this, 
 that, after publication, there will be no more subscribers, and few will 
 scud the additional guinea to get their books : in which they will be 
 wrong ; for there will be a great deal of instruction in the work. I 
 think highly of Campbell. In the first place, he has very good parts. 
 In the second place, he has very extensive reading; not, perhaps, 
 what is properly called learning, but history, politics, and, in short, 
 that popular knowledge which makes a man very useful. In the third 
 place, he has learned much by what is called the vox vica. He talks 
 with a great many people." 
 
 Speaking of this gentleman, at Rasay, he told us that he one day 
 called on him, and they talked of " Tail's Husbandry." Dr. Campbell 
 said something. Dr. Johnson began to dispute it. " Come," said 
 Dr. Campbell, " we do not want to get the better of one another : we 
 Avant to increase each other's ideas." Dr. Johnson took it in good 
 part, and the conversation then went on coolly and instructively. 
 His candour in relating this anecdote does him much credit, and his 
 conduct on that occasion proves how easily he could be persuaded to 
 talk from a better motive than " for victory." 
 
 Dr. Johnson here showed so much of the spirit of a Highlander, 
 that he won Sir Allan's heart : indeed, he has shown it during the 
 whole of our tour. One night, in Col, he strutted about the room 
 with a broad-sword and target, and made a formidable appearance ; 
 and, another night, I took the liberty to put a large blue bonnet on his 
 head. His age, his size, and his bushy grey wig, with this covering 
 on it, presented the image of a venerable Senachi ; and, however un- 
 favourable to the Lowland Scots, he seemed much pleased to assume 
 the appearance of an ancient Caledonian. We only regretted that he 
 could not be prevailed with to partake of the social glass. One of his 
 arguments against drinking appears to me not convincing. He urged, 
 that " in proportion as drinking makes a man different from what he 
 is before he has drunk, it is bad ; because it has so far affected his 
 reason." But may it not be answered, that a man may be altered 
 by it for the better ; that his spirits may be exhilarated without his 
 reason being affected ? On the general subject of drinking, however, 
 I do not mean positively to take the other side. I am dulius non 
 imjtrobiis. 
 
 In the evening, Sir Allan informed us that it was the custom of 
 his house to have prayers every Sunday; and Miss Maclean read the 
 
 R
 
 258 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 evening service, in which we all joined. I then read Ogden's second 
 and ninth Sermons on Prayer, which, with their other distinguished 
 excellence, have the merit of being short. Dr. Johnson said, that it 
 was the most agreeable Sunday he had ever passed; and it made 
 such an impression on his mind, that he afterwards wrote the follow- 
 ing Latin verses upon Inchkenneth : 
 
 INSTJLA SANCTI KENNETH!. 
 Parva quidem regio, sed religione priorum 
 
 Note, Caledonias panditur inter aquas ; 
 Yoce ubi Cennethus populos dorauisse feroces 
 
 Dicitur, et vanos dedocuisse deos. 
 Hue ego delatus placido per eoerala cursu 
 
 Scire locum volui quid daret ille novi. 
 Illic Leniades humili regnabat in aula, 
 
 Leniades magnis nobilitatus avis : 
 Una duas habuit casa cum genitore puellas, 
 
 Quas Amor uudarum fingeret esse deas : 
 Non tamen inculti gelidis latuere sub autris, 
 
 Accola Danubii qualia ssevus habet ; 
 Mollia non deerant vacuse solatia vitie, 
 
 Sive libros poscant otia, sive lyram. 
 Luxerat ilia dies, legis gens docta supernrs 
 
 Spes hominum ac curas cum procul esse jubet, 
 Ponti inter strepitus sacri non rounera cultus 
 
 Cessarunt ; pietas hie qnoqne cura fuit : -;^^ < 
 
 Quid quod sacrifici versavit femina libros, 
 
 Legitimas faciunt pectora pura preces. 
 Quo vagor ulterius ? quod nbique rcquiritur hie est ; 
 
 Hie secura quies, hie et honestus amor.* 
 
 * Johnson made various alterations on these verses, as may be seen from the copy 
 printed in his Works, Oxford edit., Vol. I. The poem was thus translated by the late 
 Sir Daniel K. Sandford, Professor of Greek in the University of Glasgow : 
 
 " Scarce spied amidst the West-sea foam, 
 
 Yet once Religion's chosen home, 
 
 Appears the isle whose savage race 
 
 By Kenneth's voice was won to grace. 
 
 O' er glassy tides'I thither new, 
 
 The wonders of the spot to view ; 
 
 In lonely cottage great Maclean 
 
 Held his high ancestral reign, 
 
 With daughters fail 1 , whom Love might deem 
 
 The Naiads of the Oceau-stream ; 
 
 Yet not in chilly cavern rude 
 
 Were they, like Danube's lawless brood ; 
 
 But all that charms a polished age, 
 
 The tuneful lyre, the learned page. 
 
 Combined to heautify and bless 
 
 That life of ease and loneliness. 
 
 Now dawned the day whose holy light 
 
 Pats human hopes and cares to flight ;
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 259 
 
 MONDAY, OCTOBER 18. 
 
 We agreed to pass this day with Sir Allan, and he engaged to 
 have everything in order for our voyage to-morrow. 
 
 Being now soon to be separated from our amiable friend, young 
 Col, liis merits were all remembered. At Ulva he had appeared in a 
 new character, having given us a good prescription for a cold. On 
 my mentioning him with warmth, Dr. Johnson said, " Col does every- 
 thing for us : we will erect a statue to Col." " Yes," said I, " and we 
 will have him with his various attributes and characters, like Mercury, 
 or any other of the heathen gods. We will have him as a pilot ; AVG 
 will have him as a fisherman, as a hunter, as a husbandman, as a 
 physician. " 
 
 I this morning took a spade, and dug a little grave in the floor of 
 
 Nor 'mid the hoarse waves' circling swell 
 
 Did Worship here forget to dwell. 
 
 What though beneath a woman's hand 
 
 The Sacred Volume's leaves expand, 
 
 No need of priestly sanction there 
 
 The sinless heart makes holy prayer '. 
 
 Then wherefore further seek to rove, 
 
 While here is all our hearts approve 
 
 llepose, security, and love ?" 
 
 Sir Allan Maclean had unfortunately but little of the ancient possessions of the chiefs 
 of Maclean. Coll, Lochbuy, and Ardgour had long passed to younger branches of the 
 house, and most of the remainder had been forfeited in 171.5 and 174-0, and came into 
 the hands of the Argyle family. " The ashes of Sir Allan," says the " Statistical Ac- 
 count," " rest near the spot where he related to Dr. Johnsoa his American campaign ; 
 but the estate has long since gone from the family. It is now the property of Colonel 
 Robert Macdonald, who has built a mansion-house on the island, aml,*like Sir Allan, 
 resides there in agreeable retirement, after having fought and bled in the canse of his 
 country." Sir Allan's two daughters both married Macleans ; the eldest, a neigh- 
 bouring proprietor, Maclean of Lochaline. The huts in which the military baronet 
 received Johnson and Boswell were afterwards abandoned and left to ruin ; the walls 
 remain, and assist the imagination in recalling the scene of sequestered beauty and 
 piety so exquisitely drawn by Johnson. 
 
 Sir Allan Maclean died at Inchkenneih, December 10th, 1783. " The family of 
 Maclean of Duart," says Mr. Gregory, in his work on the Western Highlands, " in the 
 reign of James VI. was the most powerful in the Hebrides, but had, before the end 
 of the seventeenth century, lost nearly all its possessions, and was almost deprived of 
 influence. The seeds of the decay of this important family were sown in the reign of 
 Queen Mary, when the great feud between the Macleans and Macdonald first broke out. 
 In the reigns of James VI. and Charles I., many debts had accumulated against the 
 barony of Duart, which enabled the Marquis of Argyle and his successors to establish 
 a claim to that estate ; and this claim the Macleans, owing to their exertions hi favour 
 of the Stuarts, never had an opportunity of shaking off. Sir Lauchlan Maclean of 
 Morven, immediate younger brother of Hector Maclean, of Duart, and grandson of 
 Lauchlan Mor, was created a Baronet of Nova Scotia by Charles I. On the death of his 
 elder brother, Sir Lauchlan succeeded to the estate of Duart, and on the failure of the 
 male, issue of Sir Lauchlan, some generations later, the baronetcy devolved (in 1750) on 
 Allan Maclean, of Brolos (Johnson's entertainer), descended from Donald, a younger 
 brother of the first Baronet of Duart. Sir Allan's heir male, who now bears the title, Is 
 Lieutenant-General Sir Fitzroy Maclean of Morarven, eighth baronet. ED. 
 
 R 2
 
 280 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 a ruined chapel, near Sir Allan Maclean's house, in which I buried 
 some human bones I found there.* Dr. Johnson praised me for what 
 I had done, though he owned he could not have done it. He showed 
 in the chapel at Rasay his horror at dead men's bones. He showed 
 it again at Col's house. In the charter-room there was a remarkably 
 large shin-bone, which was said to have been a bone of John Garve y 
 one of the lairds, f Dr. Johnson would not look at it ; but started 
 away. 
 
 At breakfast, I asked, " What is the reason that we are angry at 
 a trader's having opulence ? " JOHNSON : " Why, sir, the reason is 
 (though I don't undertake to prove that there is a reason), we see no 
 qualities in trade that should entitle a man to superiority. We ave 
 not angry at a soldier's getting riches, because we see that he pos- 
 sesses qualities which we have not. If a man returns from a battle, 
 having lost one hand, and with the other full of gold, we feel that he 
 deserves the gold ; but we cannot think that a fellow, by sitting all 
 day at a desk, is entitled to get above us." BOSWELL : " But, sir, 
 may we not suppose a merchant to be a man of an enlarged mind, 
 such as Addison in the "Spectator" describes Sir Andrew Freeport to 
 have been? " JOHNSON : "Why, sir, we may suppose any fictitious 
 character. We may suppose a philosophical day-labourer, who is 
 happy in reflecting that, by his labour, he contributes to the fertility 
 of the earth, and to the support of his fellow-creatures ; but we find 
 no such philosophical day-labourer. A merchant may, perhaps, be a 
 man of aa enlarged mind ; but there is nothing in trade connected 
 with an enlarged mind." 
 
 I mentioned that I had heard Dr. Solander say he was a Swedish 
 Laplander. JOHNSON : " Sir, I don 't believe he is a Laplander. The 
 Laplanders are not much above four feet high. He is as tall as you ; 
 and he has not the copper colour of a Laplander. BOSWELL : " But 
 what motive could he have to make himself a Laplander ?" J JOHN- 
 SON : " Why, sir, he must either mean the word Laplander in a very 
 extensive sense, or may mean a voluntary degradation of himself. 
 ' For all my being the great man that you see me now, I was origi- 
 
 * Johnson, always interested in the ruins of religious honses, describes this chapel 
 minutely, and in a letter to Mrs. Thrale gives a characteristic anecdote of his fellow- 
 traveller. He says " Boswell, who is very pioua, went into it at night to perform his 
 devotions, hut came back in haste, for fear of spectres." ED. 
 
 t John Garve was the first laird of Coll, and founder of the Coll branch of the Mac- 
 leans. He held the principal part of the estate by a charter granted by James II. of 
 Scotland. ED. 
 
 t A very pertinent question, and one which Johnson answered but lamely. Dr. 
 Solander was barn at Norland, in Sweden. His labours as a botanist, and his voyage 
 with Cook in company with Sir Joseph Banks, have justly rendered him eminent. He 
 died in London, May 13,1782. EB.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 261 
 
 nally a barbarian ; ' as if Burke should say, ' I came 'over a wild 
 Irishman : ' which he might say in his present state of exaltation." 
 
 Having expressed a desire to have an island like Inchkenneth, 
 Dr. Johnson set himself to think what would be necessary for a man 
 in such a situation. " Sir, I should build me a fortification, if I came 
 to live here ; for, if you have it not, what should hinder a parcel of 
 ruffians to land in the night, and carry off everything you have in 
 the house, which, in a remote country, would be more valuable than 
 cov.'s and sheep ? Add to all this the danger of having your throat 
 cut." BOSWELL : " I would have a large dog." JOHNSON : " So you 
 may, sir ; but a large dog is of no use but to alarm." He, however, 
 I apprehend, thinks too lightly of the power of that animal. I have 
 heard him say, that he is afraid of no dog. " He would take him up 
 by the hinder legs, which would render him quite helpless, and then 
 knock his head against a stone, and beat out his brains." Topham 
 Beauclerk told me, that at his house in the country, two large fero- 
 cious dogs were fighting. Dr. Johnson looked steadily at them for a 
 little while ; and then, as one would separate two little boys, who 
 were foolishly hurting each other, he ran up to them, and cuffed 
 their heads till he drove them asunder.* But few men have his 
 intrepidity, Herculean strength, or presence of mind. Most thieves 
 or robbers would be afraid to encounter a mastiff. 
 
 I observed, that, when young Col talked of the lands belonging to 
 his family, he always said, " my lands." For this he had a plausible 
 pretence ; for he told me, there has been a custom in this family that 
 the laird resigns the estate to the eldest son when he comes of age, 
 reserving to himself only a certain life-rent. He said, it was a volun- 
 tary custom ; but I think I found an instance in the charter-room 
 that there was such an obligation in a contract of marriage. If the 
 custom was voluntary, it was only curious ; but if founded on obliga- 
 tion, it might be dangerous; for I have been told, that in Otaheite, 
 whenever a child is born (a son, I think), the father loses his right 
 to the estate and honours ; and that this unnatural, or rather absurd, 
 custom occasions the murder of many children. 
 
 Young Col told us he could run down a greyhound ; " for (said 
 he,) the dog runs himself out of breath by going too quick, and then 
 I get up with him." I accounted for his advantage over the dog, bj- 
 remarking that Col had the faculty of reason, and knew how to 
 moderate his pace, which the dog had not sense enough to do. Dr. 
 
 " When we inquired into the truth of this story, be answered, ' The dogs have 
 been somewhat magnified, I believe. They were, as I remember, two stout youus 
 pointers, but the story has gained but little." Mrs. Piozzi's Anecdotes. Johnson wonld 
 have thought it had gained a good deal if related of any other party. ED.
 
 262 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Johnson said, " He is a noble animal. He is as complete an islander 
 as the mind can figure. He is a farmer, a sailor, a hunter, a fisher : 
 he \vill run you down a dog. If any man has a tail, it is Col. He is 
 hospitable ; and he has intrepidity of talk, whether he understands 
 the subject or not. I regret that he is not more intellectual." 
 
 Dr. Johnson observed, that there was nothing of which he would 
 not undertake to persuade a. Frenchman in a foreign country. " I'll 
 cany a Frenchman to St. Paul's Churchyard, and I'll tell him, ' By 
 our law you may walk half round the church ; but, if you walk round 
 the whole, you will be punished capitally ; ' and he will believe me at 
 once. Now, no Englishman would readily swallow such a thing : he 
 would go and inquire of somebody else." The Frenchman's credulity, 
 I observed, must be owing to his being accustomed to implicit sub- 
 mission ; whereas every Englishman reasons upon the laws of his 
 country, and instructs his representatives, who compose the legislature. 
 
 This day -was passed in looking at a small island adjoining Inch- 
 kenneth, which afforded nothing worthy of observation ; and in such 
 social and gay entertainments as our little society could furnish. 
 
 TUESDAY, OCTOBER 19. 
 
 After breakfast, we took leave of the young ladies, and of our 
 excellent companion Col, to whom we had been so much obliged. He 
 had now put us under the care of his chief, and was to hasten back 
 to Sky. We parted from him with veiy strong feelings of kindness 
 and gratitude ; and we hoped to have had some future opportunity of 
 proving to him the sincerity of what we felt ; but in the following 
 year he was unfortunately lost in the sound between Ulva and Mull ; 
 and this imperfect memorial, joined to the high honour of being ten- 
 derly and respectfully mentioned by Dr. Johnson, is the only return 
 which the uncertainty of human events has permitted us to make to 
 this deserving young man.* 
 
 Sir Allan, who obligingly undertook to accompany us to Icolmkill, 
 had a strong, good boat, with four stout rowers. "We coasted along 
 Mull till we reached Gribon, where is what is called Mackinnon's 
 
 * September 25, 1774, Archibald Murdoch, Esq., younger, of Gartincaber, Mr. Mac- 
 lean, of Coll, Mr. Fisher from England, and Mr. Malcolm Macdonald, drover in Mull, 
 tvith five attendants, unfortunately drowned in crossing a ferry in the Isle of Mull. 
 Mr. Murdoch had gone to Mull on a visit to Mr. Maclaine, of Lochbny, and having 
 dined in a friend's house, the melancholy accident happened on their return. The 
 barge overset within a gunshot of the lands of Ulva and Mull. Mr. Maclaine of Loch- 
 bny, and three young men in the barge, having got hold of the mast, continued dash- 
 ing in the waves for three quarters of an hour, and were saved by the ferry-boat of 
 Ulva, which reached them just as they were ready to sink. (" Scots' Magazine.") In 
 1797 Dr. E.D. Clarke, when in the Highlands, experienced great kindness from the 
 brother of the lamented Coll. The hospitality of the family was proverbial. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 263 
 
 cave, compared "with which that at Ulinish is inconsiderable. It is in 
 a rock of great height, close to the sea. Upon the left of its entrance 
 there is a cascade, almost perpendicular from the top to the bottom of 
 the rock. There is a tradition that it was conducted thither artifi- 
 cially, to supply the inhabitants of the cave with water. Dr. Johnson 
 gave no credit to this tradition. As, on the one hand, his faith in the 
 Christian religion is firmly founded upon good grounds ; so, on the 
 other; he is incredulous when there is no sufficient reason for belief ; 
 being, in this respect, just the reverse of modern infidels, who, how- 
 ever nice and scrupulous in weighing the evidences of religion, are 
 yet often so ready to believe the most absurd and improbable tales of 
 another nature, that Lord Hailes well observed, a good essay might 
 be written, Sur la credulite des Iiicrcditles. 
 
 The height of this cave I cannot tell with any tolerable exactness; 
 but it seemed to bo very lofty, and to be a pretty regular arch. We 
 penetrated, by candle-light, a great way ; by our measurement, no 
 less than four hundred and eighty-five feet. Tradition says, that a 
 piper and twelve men once advanced into this cave, nobody can tel 
 how far, and never returned. At the distance to which we proceeded, 
 the air was quite pure, for the candle burned freely, without the least 
 appearance of the flame growing globular ; but, as we had only one, 
 we thought it dangerous to venture farther, lest, should it have been 
 extinguished, we should have had no means of ascertaining whether 
 wo could remain without danger. Dr. Johnson said this was the 
 greatest natural curiosity he had ever seen. * 
 
 We saw the island of Staffa, at no very great distance, but could 
 not land upon it, the surge was so high on its rocky coast. 
 
 Sir Allan, anxious for the honour of Mull, was still talking of its 
 woods, and pointing them out to Dr. Johnson, as appearing at a dis- 
 tance on the skirts of that island, as we sailed along. JOHNSON : 
 " Sir, I saw at Tobermorie what they called a wood, which I unluckily 
 took for heath. If you show me what I shall take for furze, it will be 
 something." 
 
 * The author of the statistical account of the parish supposes that the cave was 
 formed by the wasting of a trap vein. The breadth at tha entrance is about forty-five 
 feet, and the roof, rising almost in a regular arch, is so high and lofty that the torches 
 and lights used are insufficient to show it distinctly; and from its general depth or 
 length it is not very possible to form a notion of its dimensions from any point of view. 
 Passing inwards from the sea to a great depth on the right-hand side, is a narrow pas- 
 sage about six feet wide, obstructed by large stones, over which, having passed, there 
 is a second cave of about twenty-five feet in breadth ; and here is a square stone called 
 Fingal's Table. Onwards still the cave leads, until tokens of a feculent or corrupted 
 atmosphere, beginning to affect the lights, warn the traveller as to the propriety of 
 returning. The cave derives its name from a tradition that a gentleman of the name 
 of Mackinnon was lost in seeking to explore the cave. ED.
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 In the afternoon we -went ashore on the coast of Mull, and partook 
 of a cold repast, which we carried with us. We hoped to have pro- 
 cured some rum or brandy, for our boatmen and servants, from a pub- 
 lic-house near where we landed ; but, unfortunately, a funeral a few 
 days before had exhausted all their store. Mr. Campbell, however, 
 one of the Duke of Argyle's tacksmen, who lived in the neighbour- 
 hood, on receiving a message from Sir Allan, sent us a liberal supply. 
 
 We continued to coast along Mull, and passed by Nuns' Island, 
 which, it is said, belonged to the nuns of Icolmkill, and from which, 
 we are told, the stone for the buildings there was taken. As we 
 sailed along by moonlight, in a sea somewhat rough, and often be- 
 tween black and gloomy rocks, Dr. Johnson said, " If this be not 
 roving among the Hebrides, nothing is." The repetition of words 
 which he had so often previously used, made a strong impression on 
 my imagination; and, by a natural course of thinking, led me to con- 
 sider how our present adventures would appear to me at a future 
 period. 
 
 I have often experienced, that scenes through which a man has 
 passed, improve by lying in the memory : they grow mellow. Adi 
 Uibores sunt jucundi. This may be owing to comparing them with 
 present listless ease. Even harsh scenes acquire a softness by length
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 205 
 
 of time ; * and some are like very loud sounds, widen do not please, 
 or at least do not please so much, till you are removed to a certain 
 distance. They may be compared to strong, coarse pictures, which 
 will not bear to be viewed near. Even pleasing scenes improve by 
 time, and seem more exquisite in recollection, than when they were 
 present if they have not faded to dimness in the memory. Perhaps 
 there is so much evil in every human enjoyment, when present so 
 much dross mixed up with it that it requires to be refined by time ; 
 and yet I do not see why time should not melt away the good and the 
 evil in equal -proportions why the shade should decay, and the light 
 remain in preservation. 
 
 After a tedious sail, which, by our following various turnings of 
 the coast of Mull, was extended to about forty miles, it gave us no 
 small pleasure to perceive a light in the village of Icolmkill, in which 
 almost all the inhabitants of the island live, close to where the ancient 
 building stood. As we approached the shore, the tower of the cathe- 
 dral, just discernible in the air, was a picturesque object. 
 
 When we had landed upon the sacred place, which, as long as I 
 can remember, I had thought on with veneration, l)r. Johnson and I 
 cordially embraced. We had long talked of visiting Icolnikill ; and, 
 from the lateness of the season, "were at times very doubtful whether 
 we should be able to effect our purpose. To have seen it, even alone, 
 would have given me great satisfaction ; but the venerable scene was 
 rendered much more pleasing by the company of my great and pious 
 friend, who was no less affected by it than I was ; and who has de- 
 scribed the impressions it should make on the mind, with such strength 
 of thought, and energy of language, that I shall quote his words, as 
 conveying my own sensations much more forcibly than I am capable 
 of doing : 
 
 " We were now treading that illustrious island which was once the luminary of the 
 Caledonian regions, whence savage clans and roving barbarians derived the benefits of 
 knowledge, and the blessings of religion. To abstract the mind from all local emotions 
 would be impossible, if it were endeavoured, and would be foolish if it were possible. 
 Whatever withdraws us from the power of our senses, whatever makes the past, the 
 distant, or the future, predominate over the present, advances us in the dignity of 
 thinking beings. Far from me, and from my friends, be such frigid philosophy as may 
 conduct us indifferent and unmoved over any ground which has been dignified by wisdom, 
 Iravery, or virtue. '1 hat man is little to be envied whose patriotism would not gain 
 force u] on the plain of Marathon, or whose piety would not grow warmer among the 
 ruins of lona !"t 
 
 * I have lately observed that this thought has been elegantly expressed l>y Cowley, 
 [Ode upon his Majesty's restoration] : 
 
 " Things which offend when present, and affright, 
 In memory, well painted, move delight." BOSWKI.L. 
 
 + Had our Tour produced nothing else but this sublime passage, the world must
 
 266 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Upon hearing that Sir Allan Maclean was arrived, the inhabitants, 
 who still consider themselves as the people of Maclean, to whom the 
 island formerly belonged, though the Duke of Argyle has at present 
 possession of it, ran eagerly to him. 
 
 We were accommodated this night in a large barn, the island 
 affording no lodging that we should have liked so well. Some good 
 hay was strewed at one end of it, to form a bed for us, upon which 
 we lay with our clothes on ; and we were furnished with blankets 
 from the village. Each of us had a portmanteau for a pillow. When 
 I awaked in the morning, and looked round me, I coald not help 
 smiling at the idea of the chief of the Macleans, the great English, 
 moralist, and myself, lying thus extended in such a situation. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 20. 
 
 Early in the morning, we surveyed the remains of antiquity at 
 this place, accompanied by an illiterate fellow, as cicerone, who called 
 himself a descendant of a cousin of St. Columba, the founder of the 
 religious establishment here. As I knew that many persons had 
 already examined them, and as I saw Dr. Johnson inspecting and 
 measuring several of the ruins of which he has since given so full an 
 account, my mind was quiescent ; and I resolved to stroll among them 
 at my ease, to take no trouble to investigate minutely, and only re- 
 ceive the general impression of solemn antiquity, and the particular 
 ideas of such objects as should of themselves strike my attention. 
 
 We walked from the monastery of nuns to the great church or 
 cathedral, as they call it, along an old broken causeway. They told 
 us, that this had been a street, and that there were good houses built 
 on each side. Dr. Johnson doubted if it was anything more than a 
 paved road for the nuns. The convent of monks, the great church, 
 Oran's chapel, and four other chapels, are still to be discerned. But 
 I must own that Icolmkill did not answer my expectations ; for they 
 were high, from what I had read of it, and still more from what I had 
 heard and thought of it, from my earliest years. Dr. Johnson said, 
 it came up to his expectations, because he had taken his impression 
 from an account of it, subjoined to Sacheverel's " History of the Isle 
 of Man," where it is said, there is not much to be seen here. We 
 were both disappointed when we were shown what are called the 
 monuments of the kings of Scotland, Ireland, and Denmark, and of a 
 king of France. There are only some grave-stones flat on the earth, 
 
 have acknowledged that it was not made in vain. The present respectable President 
 of the Royal Society [Sir Joseph Banks] was so much struck on reading it, that he 
 clasped his hands together, and remained for some time in an attitude of silent admi 
 ration. BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 267 
 
 and \ve could sec no inscriptions. How far short was this of marble 
 monuments, like those in Westminster Abbey, which I had imagined 
 here ! The grave-stones of Sir Allan Maclean's family, and of that of 
 Macquarrie, had as good an appearance as the royal grave-stones ; if 
 they were royal, we doubted. 
 
 My easiness to give credit to what I heard in the course of our 
 tour was too great. Dr, Johnson's peculiar accuracy of investigation 
 detected much traditional fiction, and many gross mistakes. It is 
 not to be wondered at, that he was provoked by people carelessly 
 telling him, with the utmost readiness and confidence, what he found, 
 on questioning them a little more, was erroneous. Of this there were 
 innumerable instances. 
 
 I left him and Sir Allan at breakfast in our barn, and stole back 
 again to the cathedral, to indulge in solitude and devout meditation. 
 While contemplating the venerable ruins, I reflected with much satis- 
 faction, that the solemn scenes of piety never lose their sanctity and 
 influence, though the cares and follies of life may prevent us from 
 visiting them, or may even make us fancy that their effects are only " as 
 yesterday, when it is past," and never again to be perceived. I hoped 
 that, ever after having been in this holy place, I should maintain an 
 exemplary conduct. One has a strange propensity to fix upon some 
 point of time from whence a better course of life may begin. 
 
 Being desirous to visit the opposite shore of the island, where 
 Saint Columba is said to have landed, I procured a horse from one 
 M'Ginnis, who ran along as my guide. The M'Ginnises are said to 
 be a branch of the clan of Maclean. Sir Allan had been told that 
 this man had refused to send him some rum, at which the knight was 
 in great indignation. " You rascal ! (said he) don't you know that 
 I can hang you, if I please ?" Not adverting to the Chieftain's power 
 over his clan, I imagined that Sir Allan had known of some capital 
 crime that the fellow had committed, which he could discover, and so 
 get him condemned ; and said, " How so ?" " Why, (said Sir Allan) 
 "are they not all my people?" Sensible of my inadveilency, and 
 most willing to contribute what I could towards the continuation of 
 feudal authority : " Very true," said I. Sir Allan went on : " Refuse 
 to send rum to me, you rascal ! Don't you know, that if I order you 
 to go and cut a man's throat, you are to do it ?" " Yes, an't please 
 your honour ! and my own too, and hang myself too." The poor fellow 
 denied that he had refused to send the rum. His making these pro- 
 fessions was not merely a pretence in presence of his Chief ; for after 
 he and I were out of Sir Allan's hearing, he told me, " Had he sent 
 his dog for the rum, I would have given it ; I would cut my bones for 
 him." It was very remarkable to find such an attachment to a Chief,
 
 2i8 JOUttXAL OF A TOUR 
 
 though he had then no connection -with the island, and had not been 
 there for fourteen years. Sir Allan, by way of upbraiding the fellow, 
 said, ' I believe you are a Campbell" 
 
 The place which I went to see is about two miles from the village. 
 They call it Portawherry, from the wherry in which Columba came ; 
 though, when they show the length of his vessel, as marked on the 
 beach by two heaps of stones, they say, " Here is the length of the 
 Cur rack" using the Erse word.* 
 
 Icolmkill is a fertile island. The^ inhabitants export some cattle 
 and grain ; and I was told, they import nothing but iron and salt. 
 They are industrious, and make their own woollen and linen cloth ; 
 and they brew a good deal of beer, which we did not find in any of 
 the other islands. 
 
 We set sail again about inid-day, and in the evening landing on 
 Mull, near the house of the Iteverend Mr. Neil Macleod, who having 
 been informed of our coming, by a message from Sir Allan, came out 
 to meet us. "We were this night very agreeably entertained at his 
 house. Dr. Johnson observed to me, that he was the cleanest-headed 
 man that he had met with in the Western islands, f He seemed to 
 
 * This spot has always borne the name of "Port a' Curragh ;" i. e., the Bay of 
 iKe Wicker Boat. Boawell had mistaken the Celtic pronunciation. The length of 
 Columba's curragh must have been sixty feet, if the artificial mound represent truly 
 Ha dimensions. The Island of lona is now too well known to require description. 
 Like ancient Borne, " it is visited by every caste ; for moralists, antiquaries, painters, 
 architects, devotees, all meet here to examine, to draw, to measure, and to pray." 
 {Forsyth's "Italy.") Johnson did much for its celebrity, and the steamboats that ply 
 weekly from Oban afford ready facilities to tourists ; still the sacred island does not 
 flourish. A miserable population crowd its shores, destitute of land or money ; and 
 the condition of the " crofter," or small tenant, of ten or fifteen pounds, has been 
 reduced by the decline in the value of cattle and the failure of the potato. The ex- 
 port of produce has diminished materially since 1816, notwithstanding that the crofts 
 are generally larger and the soil better in lona than in the neighbouring islands. 
 When Sacheverel visited lona in 1688, he found the number of families to be about 
 80 ; the entire population is now about 400, but it is gradually lessening by emigra- 
 tion. ED. 
 
 + A singular use of the adjective cleanest; clearest would seem to be the word, but 
 it is the same in all the editions ; and it is consistent with Johnson's own definition 
 of clean, in one sense, as " elegant, not unwieldy ; not encumbered with anything 
 useless, or disproportioned." The minister did not live to read the unusual compli- 
 ment ; he died April 28, 1780. Johnson notices this gentleman in his " Journey," but 
 by mistake calls him Maclean " A minister who lives upon the coast, whose elegance 
 of conversation and strength of judgment would make him conspicuous in places of 
 greater celebrity." A daughter of this gentleman's Miss Mary Macleod, residing at 
 Tobermory is, perhaps, the only person now alive (1852) who remembers having seen 
 l>i-. Johnson in the Hebrides. She was then but a child ; but she has a distinct recol- 
 lection of Johnson's appearance. Alexander, one of Mr. Macleod's sons, deserves 
 notice. He emigrated to the United States in 1792, and became a minister of the 
 Beformed Presbyterian Church. He distinguished himself by his opposition to slavery, 
 and during the first year of bis ministry, the presbytery, through his influence, passed 
 a. resolution, that no slave-holder should be retained in their communion. He was the
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 2C9 
 
 be well acquainted with Dr. Johnson's writings, and courteously said, 
 " I have been often obliged to you, though I never had the pleasure 
 of seeing you before." 
 
 He told us, he had lived for some time in St. Kilda, under the 
 tuition of the minister or catechisi there, and had there first read 
 Horace and Virgil. The scenes which they describe must have been 
 a strong contrast to the dreary waste around him. 
 
 THURSDAY, OCTOBER 21. 
 
 This morning the subject of politics was introduced. JOHNSON : 
 " Pulteney was as paltry a fellow as could be. He was a Whig, who 
 pretended to be honest f and you know it is ridiculous for a Whig to 
 pretend to be honest. He cannot hold it out." He called Mr. Pitt 
 a meteor ; Sir Robert Walpole a fixed star. He said, " It is wonder- 
 ful to think that all the force of government was required to prevent 
 Wilkes from being chosen the chief magistrate of London, though the 
 liverymen knew he would rob their shops knew he would debauch 
 their daughters."* 
 
 BOSWELL : " The History of England is so strange, that, if it 
 were not so well vouched as it is, it would hardly be credible." - 
 JoUNSON : " Sir, if it were told as shortly, and with as little prepara- 
 tion for introducing the different events, as the History of the Jewish 
 Kings, it would be equally liable to objections of improbability." 
 Mr. Macleod was much pleased with the justice and novelty of the 
 thought. Dr. Johnson illustrated what he had said, as follows : 
 " Take, as an instance, Charles the First's concessions to his parlia- 
 ment, which were greater and greater, in proportion as the parliament 
 grew more insolent, and less deserving of trust. Had these conces- 
 
 nuthor of several valuable theological works, and died at New York in 1833. His son, 
 the Rev. Dr. John Neil Macleod (grandson of Johnson's entertainer), now worthily fills 
 his father's place in the Reformed Presbyterian Church at New York. ED. 
 
 * I think it incumbent on me to make some observation on this strong satirical 
 sally on my classical companion, Mr. Wilkes. Reporting it lately from memory, in his 
 presence, I expressed it thus : " They knew he would rob their shops, if he durst ; they 
 knew he would debauch their daughters, if he could ;" which, according to the French 
 phrase, may be said rencherir on Dr. Johnson, 'but on looking into my "Journal" 1 
 found it as above, and would by no means make any additioa. Mr. Wilkes received 
 both readings with a good humur that I cannot enough admire. Indeed, both hu 
 and I (as, with respect to myself, the reader has more than once had occasion to 
 observe in the course of this "Journal") are too fond of a bon mot not to relish it, 
 though we should be ourselves the object of it. Let me add, in justice to the gentle- 
 man here mentioned, that at a subsequent period he was elected chief magistrate of 
 London, and dischnrged the duties of that high office with great honour to himself and 
 advantage to the city. Some years before Dr. Johnson died, I was fortunate enough 
 to bring him and Mr. Wilkes together ; the consequence of which was, fhat they were 
 ever afterwards on easy and not unfriendly terms. The particulars I shall have great 
 pleasure in relating at large in my "Life of Dr. Johnson." BOSWKLL.
 
 270 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 sions been related nakedly, -without any detail of the circumstances 
 which generally led to them, they would not have been believed." 
 
 Sir Allan Maclean bragged that Scotland had the advantage of 
 England, "by its having more water. JOHNSON : " Sir, we would not 
 have your water, to take the vile bogs which produce it. You have 
 too much ! A man who is drowned has mere water than either of us ;" 
 and then he laughed. (But this was surely robust sophistry ; for 
 the people of taste in England, who have seen Scotland, own that its 
 variety of rivers and lakes makes it naturally more beautiful than 
 England, in that respect.) Pursuing his victory over Sir Allan, he 
 proceeded : " Your country consists of two things, stone and water. 
 There is, indeed, a little earth above the stoije in some places, T)ut a 
 very little ; and the stone is always appearing. It is like a man in 
 rags ; the naked skin is still peeping out." 
 
 He took leave of Mr. Macleod, saying, " Sir, 1 thank you for your 
 entertainment, and your conversation." 
 
 Mr. Campbell, who had been so polite yesterday, came this morn- 
 ing on purpose to breakfast with us, and very obligingly furnished us 
 with horses to proceed on our journey to Mr. Maclaine's of Lochbuy, 
 where we were to pass the night. "We dined at the house of Dr. 
 Alexander Maclean, another physician in Mull, who was so much 
 struck with the uncommon conversation of Dr. Johnson, that ho 
 observed to me, " This man is just a hogshead of sense." 
 
 Dr. Johnson said of the " Turkish Spy," which lay in the room, 
 that it told nothing but what every body might have known at that 
 time ; and that what was good in it, did not pay you for the trouble 
 of reading to find it. 
 
 After a very tedious ride, through what appeared to me the most 
 gloomy and desolate country I had ever beheld, we arrived, between 
 seven and eight o'clock, at Moy, the seat of the Laird of Lochlnnj. 
 Buy, in Erse, signifies yellow, and I at first imagined that the loch 
 or branch of the sea here, was thus denominated, in the same manner 
 as the Red Sea ; but I afterwards learned that it derived its name 
 from a hill above it, which being of a yellowish hue, has the epithet 
 of Buy. 
 
 We had heard much of Lochbuy's being a great, roaring bragga- 
 docio, a kind of Sir John Falstaff, both in size and manners; but we 
 found that they had swelled him up to a fictitious size, and clothed 
 him with imaginary qualities. Col's idea of him was equally extrava- 
 gant, though very different : he told us he was quite a Don Quixote ; 
 and said, he would give a great deal to see him and Dr. Johnson 
 together. The truth is, that Lochbuy proved to be only a bluff, 
 comely, noisy, old gentleman, proud of his hereditary consequence,
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 271 
 
 and a very hearty and hospitable landlord. Lady Lochbuy was sister 
 to Sir Allan Maclean, but much older. He said to me, " They are 
 quite antediluvians" Being told that Dr. Johnson did not hear well, 
 Lochbuy bawled out to him, " Are you of the Johnstons of Glencro, 
 or of Ardnamurchan ? " Dr. Johnson gave him a significant look, but 
 made no answer ; and I told Lochbuy that he was not Johnston, but 
 Johnso/j, and that he was an Englishman.* 
 
 Lochbuy some years ago tried to prove himself a weak man, liable 
 to imposition, or, as we term it in Scotland, a facile man, in order to 
 set aside a lease which he had granted ; but failed in the attempt. 
 On my mentioning this circumstance to Dr. Johnson, he seemed much 
 surprised that such a suit was admitted by the Scottish law, and ob- 
 served, that "In England no man is allowed to stultify himself." f 
 
 Sir Allan, Lochbuy, and I, had the conversation chiefly to ourselves 
 to-night. Dr. Johnson, being extremely weary, went to bed soon 
 after supper. 
 
 FRIDAY, OCTOBER 22. 
 
 Before Dr. Johnson came to breakfast, Lady Lochbuy said, " He 
 was a dungeon of wit;" a very common phrase in Scotland to ex- 
 press a profoundness of intellect, though he afterwards told me, that 
 he never had heard it. She proposed that he should have some cold 
 sheeps'-head for breakfast. Sir Allan seemed displeased at his sister's 
 vulgarity, and wondered how such a thought should come into her 
 head. From a mischievous love of sport, I took the lady's part; and 
 very gravely said, " I think it is but fair to give him an offer of it. 
 If he does not choose it, he may let it alone." " I think so," said the 
 lady, looking at her brother with an air of victory. Sir Allan, finding 
 tho matter desperate, strutted about the room, and took snuff. When 
 Dr. Johnson came in, she called to him, " Do you choose any cold 
 sheep's-head, sir?" "No, MADAM," said he, with a tone of surprise 
 and anger." " It is here, sir," said she, supposing he had refused it 
 to save the trouble of bringing it in. Thus they went on at cross 
 
 * Dr. Clarke heard this related differently on the island. The old laird, on being 
 informed that his visitor was neither of the Johnsons of Glencoe, nor of the Johnsons 
 of Ardnanmrchan, bluntly said to him, " Then yon must be a bastard !" The name of 
 Johnson or John's son, in Gaelic, is Mac Ian. The Mao laiia of Glencoe, and those of 
 Ardnamnrclian, were well known branches of the Clan Colla or Macdonald ; and as Dr. 
 Johnson belonged to neither of these septs, Lochbuy concluded that he was illegiti- 
 mate. Boswell had not understood the question, and confounded Glencoe, famous for 
 its rugged scenery and the massacro of the Mao laus in 1692, with Glencroe, also a 
 magnificent valley, in Argyleshire, through which the travellers passed on their return. 
 Old Lochbuy, after escaping the accident which proved fatal to young Coll, died April 
 4th, 177a ED. 
 
 t This maxim, however, has been controverted. See " Blackatone'a Commen- 
 taries," Vol II., p. 291 ; aiid the authorities there quoted. BOSWELL.
 
 272 JOURNAL OF A TOUE 
 
 purposes, till he confirmed his refusal in a manner not to be misun 
 derstood ; while I sat quietly by, and enjoyed my success. 
 
 After breakfast, we surveyed the old castle, in the pit or dungeon 
 of which Lochbuy had some years before taken upon him to imprison 
 several persons ; and though he had been fined in a considerable sum 
 by the Court of Justiciary,* he was so little affected by it, that while 
 we were examining the dungeon, he said to me, with a smile, " Your 
 father knows something of this ;" (alluding to my father having sat 
 as one of the judges on his trial.) Sir Allan whispered me, that the 
 laird could not be persuaded that he had lost his heritable jurisdiction, t 
 
 We then set out for the ferry, by which we were to cross to the 
 main-land of Argyleshire. Lochbuy and Sir Allan accompanied us. 
 We were told much of a war-saddle, on which this reputed Don 
 Quixote used to be mounted ; but we did not see it, for the young 
 laird had applied it to a less noble purpose, having taken it to Fal- 
 kirk fair with a drove of black cattle. J 
 
 * This was a characteristic Highland case. The laird, with three of his tenants, 
 the innkeeper, the piper's son, and a servant, seized upon Hector Maclean, son of 
 Maclean of Killean, and Allan Maclean of Kilmory, and thrust them into the oid 
 ruinous castle of Moy, where they were kept two days. The inferior parties pleaded 
 (no doubt with great truth) tkeir situation of dependence, and their obligation to obey 
 the laird's orders, but the plea was not sustained in Court. Lochbuy was fined 500 
 marks Soots, and ISO/, sterling of damages and expenses, and with the others was 
 condemned to suffer imprisonment for seventeen days. This was a sufficient hint as 
 to the progress of the law. The Eev. Donald Macqueen, Kilmuir, in his communica- 
 tion to Pennant on the subject of the Western Islands, says, " The approaches of the 
 law were far from welcome to men closely attached to their own customs and con- 
 nexions, being deaf to the voice of parties, and to the distinctions of clans and in- 
 dividuals. ' The law hath come the length of Kosshire,' saith one neighbour to 
 another. ' O ho !' replied he ; 'if God doth not stop it yon will soon have it nearer 
 home.'" ED. 
 
 t The heritable jurisdictions were taken from the proprietors and vested in the 
 Crown by statute, 20th George II., or 1747. Their value, as stated by the Lords of 
 Session, in their Report laid before the Privy Council, and as subsequently paid to 
 the proprietors, was 152,037?. 12s. 2d. The Argyle family seem to have obtained the 
 lion's share of this meney ; a sum of 15,000*. was allowed the duke for his office of 
 Justice-General, and 6,0001. for different regalities. Maclaine of Lochbuy preferred a 
 claim as " Bailieof the Bailiery of Morovis and Mulerois," valued at 5001 ; but the elaim 
 was disallowed. A great many claims were rejected by the Lords of Session, on the 
 ground that lords of regalities had not a power to split or divide those jurisdictions ; 
 although it had been common with them, when they sold a part of their lands, to 
 give the purchasers a privilege of regality, or criminal jurisdiction, over what they 
 bought ED. 
 
 { The young laird met with a melancholy end. Dr. E. D. Clarke writes, "The 
 estates are now fallen to a distant relation of the late Laird of Lochbuy, who got his 
 death in consequence of a dispute about the best method of cutting up a duck. He 
 had been in the American War, and returning from New York with laurels worthy of 
 his illustrious clan, was coming to reside once more upon the territories of his ances- 
 tors. In his passage home a dispute arose about the properest method of carving a 
 duck, which ended in a duel, and the last descendant of the chieftains of Lochbur fell
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 27!) 
 
 "Wo bade adieu to Lochbuy, and to our very kind conductor, Sir 
 Allan Maclean, on the shore of Mull, and then got into the ferry-boat, 
 the bottom of which was strewed with branches of trees or bushes, 
 upon which we sat. We had a good day and a fine passage, and in 
 the evening landed at Oban, where we found a tolerable inn. After 
 having been so long confined at different times in islands, from which 
 it was always uncertain when we could get away, it was comfortable 
 to be now on the main-land, and to know that, if in health, we might 
 get to any place in Scotland or England in a certain number of days. 
 
 Here we discovered, from the conjectures which were formed, that 
 the people on the main-land were entirely ignorant of our motions ; 
 for in a Glasgow newspaper we found a paragraph, which, as it con- 
 tains a just and well-turned compliment to my illustrious friend, I 
 shall here insert : 
 
 " We are well assured that Dr. Johnson is confined by tempestuous weather to the 
 Isle.of Sky ; it being unsafe to venture in a small boat upon such a stormy surge as is 
 very common there at this time of the year. Such a philosopher, detained on an 
 almost barren island, resembles a whale left upon the strand. The latter will be 
 welcome to everybody, on account of its oil, his bone, &c., and the other will charm 
 bis companions, and the rude inhabitants, with his superior knowledge and wisdom, 
 calm resignation, and unbounded benevolence." 
 
 SATURDAY, OCTOBER 23. 
 
 After a good night's rest, wo breakfasted at our leisure. "We 
 talked of Goldsmith's " Traveller," of which Dr. Johnson spoke 
 highly ; and, while I was helping him on with his great-coat, he re- 
 peated from it the character of the British nation, which he did with 
 such energy, that the tear started into his eye : 
 
 " Stern o'er each bosom Reason holds her state, 
 
 With daring aims irregularly great ; 
 
 Pride in their port, defiance in their eye, 
 
 I see the lords of human kind pass by ; 
 
 Intent on high designs, a thoughtful band, 
 
 By forms unfashioned, fresh from nature's hand, 
 
 Fierce in their native hardiness of soul, 
 
 True to imagined right, above control, 
 
 While ev'n the peasant boasts these rights to scan, 
 
 And learns to venerate himself as man." 
 
 We could get but one bridle here, which, according to the maxim 
 detur diyniori, was appropriated to Dr. Johnson's sheltie. I and 
 
 a victim upon that occasion. The father of this young man was the identical Highland 
 laird mentioned by Dr. Johnson as ' rough and haughty, and tenacious of his dignity.' " 
 (Life of Dr. E. D. Clarke, vol. i. p. 2a>.) Since the date of Dr. Johnson's visit a hand- 
 some mansion-house has been erected near the old tower of Lochbuy. Eu. 
 
 8
 
 271 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Joseph rode with halters. We crossed in a ferny-boat a pretty wide 
 lake, and on the farther side of it, close by the shore, found a hut for 
 our inn. We were much wet. I changed my clothes in part, and 
 was at pains to get myself well dried. Dr. Johnson resolutely kept 
 on all his clothes, wet as they were, letting them steam before the 
 smoky turf fire. I thought him in the wrong ; but his firmness was, 
 perhaps, a species of heroism. 
 
 
 I remember hot little of our conversation. I mentioned Shen- 
 stone's saying of Pope, that he had the art of condensing sense more 
 than any body. Dr. Johnson said, " It is not true, sir. There is 
 more sense in a line of Cowley than in a page (or a sentence, or ten 
 lines, I am not quite certain of the very phrase) of Pope." * He 
 
 Most readers will, on this point, prefer the dictnm of Sbenstone to that of John- 
 eon. In wit and fancy Cowley may contest the laurel with Pope ; the ore was richer, 
 though generally less refined. But in conveying troth and sense, maxims of life, and 
 moral or ethical precepts, where shall we find such precision, elegance, and concen- 
 tration as in the "Moral Essays" and "Satires" of Pope? His select and brilliant 
 expression of thought and sentiment is also a contrast to the careless, irregular die-
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 875 
 
 maintained that Archibald, Duke of Argyle, was a narrow man. I 
 wondered at this; and observed, that his building so great a house 
 at Inverary was not like a narrow man. " Sir, (said he) when a 
 narrow man has resolved to build a house, he builds it like another 
 man. But Archibald, Duke of Argyle, was narrow in his ordinary 
 expences, in his quotidian cxpences." 
 
 The distinction is very just. It is in the ordinary expences of life 
 that a man's liberality or narrowness is to be discovered. I never 
 heard the word quotidian in this sense, and I imagined it to be a word 
 of Dr. Johnson's own fabrication ; but I have since found it in Young's 
 " Night Thoughts," (Night Fifth) : 
 
 " Death's a destroyer of quotidian prey." 
 
 and in my friend's Dictionary, supported by the authorities of 
 Charles I. and Dr. Donne. 
 
 It rained very hard as we journeyed on after dinner. The roar of 
 torrents from the mountains, as we passed along in the dusk, and the 
 other circumstances attending our ride in the evening, have been 
 mentioned with so much animation by Dr. Johnson, that I shall not 
 attempt to say anything on the subject.* 
 
 tion of the elder poet. For Cowley'a finest thoughts we should rather look to his 
 l-ose than to his poetry ; bat Johnson's more deliberate and critical estimate of Cow 
 loy will be found in his " Life" of that poet one of the best of his biographies. ED. 
 * " The night came on while we had yet a great part of the way to go, though not so 
 durk but that we could discern the cataracts, which poured down the hills on one side 
 and fell into OHO general channel that ran with great violence CD the other. The wind 
 
 XILCIirttN CA*TLt. 
 
 was loud, the rain was heavy, and the whistling of the blast, the fall of the shower, tho 
 runh of the cataracts, and the roar of the torrent, made a nobler chorus of the rough 
 music of Nature than it had ever been my chance to hear before." (Johnson's " Jour- 
 
 3 2
 
 27G JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 We got at night to Inve'rary, where we found" an excellent inn. 
 Even here, Dr. Johnson would not change his wet clothes. 
 
 The prospect of good accommodation cheered us much. We supped 
 well ; and, after supper, Dr. Johnson, whom I had not seen taste any 
 fermented liquor during all our travels, called for a gill of whiskey. 
 *' Come (said he), let me know what it is that makes a Scotchman 
 happy ! " He drank it all but a drop, which I begged leave to pour 
 into my glass, that I might say we had drunk whiskey together. I 
 proposed Mrs. Thrale should be our tdast. He would not have her 
 drunk in whiskey, but rather " some insular lady ;" so we drank one 
 of the ladies whom we had lately left. He owned to-night, that he 
 got as good a room and bed as at an English inn. 
 
 I had here the pleasure of finding a letter from home, which 
 relieved me from the anxiety I had suffered, in consequence of not 
 having received any account of my family for many weeks. I also 
 found a letter from Mr. Garrick, which was a regale as agreeable as 
 a pine-apple would be in a desert. He had favoured me with his cor- 
 respondence for many years ; and when Dr. Johnson and I were at 
 Inverness, I had written to him as follows : 
 
 Inverness, Sunday, 297i August, 1773. 
 
 MY DEAR SIR, Here I am, and Mr. Samuel Johnson actually with me. We 
 were a night at Fores, in coming to which, in the dusk of the evening, we passed over 
 the bleak and blasted heath where Macbeth met the witches. Your old preceptor 
 repeated, with much solemnity, the speech 
 
 " How far is't called to Fores ? "What are these, 
 So wither'd and so wild in their attire," &c. 
 
 This day we visited the ruins of Macbeth's castle at Inverness. I have had great 
 romantic satisfaction in seeing Johnson upon the classical scenes of Shakspeare in 
 Scotland ; which I really looked upon as almost as improbable as that " Birnam wood 
 should come to Dunsiiiane." Indeed, as I have always been accustomed to view him 
 as a permanent London object, it would not be much more wonderful to me to see St. 
 Paul's church moving along where we now are. As yet we have travelled in post- 
 chaises ; but to-morrow we are to mount on horseback, and ascend into the mountains 
 by Fort Augustus, and so on to the ferry, where we are to cross to Sky. We shall see 
 that island fully, and then visit some more of the Hebrides ; after which we are to 
 land in Argyleshire, proceed by Glasgow to Auchinleck, repose there a competent 
 time, and then return to Edinburgh, from whence the Rambler will depart for old 
 England again, as soon as he finds it convenient. Hitherto we have had a very 
 
 ney.") This road from Oban to laverary commands views of some of the noblest 
 scenery in Scotland. Few who have travelled it will forget Loch Etive, Loch Awe 
 and its wild Pass, Kilchurn Castle, or Ben Cruaohan. Historical and poetic associa- 
 tions also consecrate the landscape. The chivalrous exploits of Bruce are indelibly 
 connected with the district, and it has received fresh interest from the genius of 
 Scott, Wordsworth, and Wilson. Scott's Highland widow, sitting at the foot of the 
 oak-tree, by the River Awe, will be remembered as long as Brace's knightly encoan- 
 ter with the followers of Lorn. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 277 
 
 prosperous expedition. I flatter myself, servetur ad imum, quails ab inceptopro- 
 cesserit. [That it will continue as prosperous as it began.] lie is in excellent 
 spirits, and I have a rich journal of his conversation. Look back, Davy* to Lich- 
 field; run up through the time that has elapsed since you first knew Mr. Johnson, 
 and enjoy with me his present extraordinary tour. I could not resist the impulse of 
 writing to you from this place. The situation of the old castle corresponds exactly to 
 Shakspeare's description. While we were there to-day it happened oddly that a raven 
 perched upon one of the chimney-tops, and croaked. Then I in my turn repeated 
 
 " The raven himself is hoarse, 
 
 That croaks the fatal entrance of Duncan, 
 
 Under my battlements." 
 
 I wish you had been with us. Think what enthusiastic happiness I shall have to see 
 Mr. Samuel Johnson walking among the romantic rocks and woods of my ancestors at 
 Anchinleck ! Write to me at Edinburgh. You owe me his verses on great George 
 and tuneful Gibber, and the bad verses which led him to make his fine ones on Philips 
 the musician. Keep your promise, and let me have them. I offer my very best com- 
 pliments to Mrs. Garrick, and ever am 
 
 Your warm admirer and friend, 
 
 JAMES BOSWELL. 
 To David Garrick, Esq., London. 
 
 His answer was as follows : 
 
 Hampton, September 14, 1773. 
 
 DEAR SIR, You stole away from London, and left us all in the lurch; for we 
 expected you one night at the club, and knew nothing of your departure. Had I 
 payed you what I owed you, for the book you bought for me, 1 should only have 
 grieved for the loss of your company, and slept with a quiet conscience ; but wounded 
 as it is, it must remain so till I see yon again, though I am sure our good friend Mr. 
 Johnson will discharge the debt for me, if you will let him. Your account of your 
 journey to Fores, the raven, old castle, &c. c., made me half mad. Are you not 
 rather too late in the year for fine weather, which is the life and soul of seeing places ? 
 I hope your pleasure will continue quails ab incepto, &c. 
 
 Your friend* threatens me much. I only wish that he would put his threats 
 
 in execution, and, if he prints bis play, I will forgive him. I remember he complained 
 
 to you that his bookseller called for the money for some copies of his , whicli I 
 
 subscribed for, and that I desired him to call again. The truth is, that my wife was 
 
 * I took the liberty of giving this familiar appellation to my celebrated friend, to 
 bring in a more lively manner to his remembrance the period when he was Dr. 
 Johnson's pupil. BOSWELL. 
 
 + I have spppressecl my friend's name from an apprehension of wounding his sen- 
 sibility ; but I would not withhold from my readers a passage which shows Mr. Gar- 
 rick's mode of writing as the manager of a theatre, and contains a pleasing trait of his 
 domestic life. His judgment of dramatic pieces, so far as concerns their exhibition on 
 the stage, must be allowed to have considerable weight. Bnt from the effect which a 
 perusal of the tragedy here condemned had upon myself, and from the opinions of 
 some eminent critics, I venture to pronounce that it has much poetical merit; and 
 its author has distinguished himself by several performances which show that the 
 epithet " poetaster" was, in the present instance, much misapplied. BOSWBLL. 
 [ From a letter of Johnson's to Mrs. Thralo, the author alluded to appears to have 
 been Mickle, translator of the " Lusiad," a man of fine poetical but not dramatic 
 talent. ED.]
 
 278 JOURNAL CF A TOUR 
 
 not at home, and that for weeks together I have not ten shillings in my pocket. How- 
 ever, had it been otherwise it was not so great a crime to draw his poetical vengeance 
 upon me. I despise all that he can do, and am glad that I can so easily get rid of him 
 and his ingratitude. I am hardened both to abuse and ingratitude. 
 
 You, I am sure, will no more recommend your poetasters to my civility and good 1 
 offices. 
 
 Shall I recommend to you a play of Eschylus, (the Prometheus), published and 
 translated by poor old Morell, who is a good scholar, and an acquaintance of mine ? 
 It will be but half a guinea, and your name shall be put in the list I am making for 
 him. You will be in very good company. 
 
 Now for the epitaphs ! 
 
 \_These, together ivith the verses on George the Second, and Colley 
 Gibber, as his Poet Laureate, of which imperfect copies are gone about , 
 to ill appear in my " Life of Dr. Johnson."] * 
 
 I have no more paper, or I should have said more to you. My love and respects 
 to Mr. Johnson. Your's ever, 
 
 D. GARRICK. 
 
 I can't write, I have the gout in my hand. 
 To James Boswell, Esq., Edinburgh. 
 
 SUNDAY, 'OCTOBER 24. 
 
 We passed the forenoon calmly and placidly. I prevailed on Dr. 
 Johnson to read aloud Ogden's sixth Sermon on Prayer, which he did 
 with a distinct expression, and pleasing solemnity. He praised my 
 favourite preacher, his elegant language, and remarkable acuteness ~, 
 and said, he fought infidels with their own weapons. 
 
 As a specimen of Ogden's manner, I insert the following passage 
 from the sermon which Dr. Johnson now read. The preacher, after 
 arguing against that vain philosophy which maintains, in conformity 
 
 * See "Life of Johnson," under date 1741. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 279 
 
 with the hard principle of eternal necessity, or unchangeable prede- 
 termination, that the only effect of prayer for others, although we are 
 exhorted to pray for them, is to produce good dispositions in ourselves 
 towards them ; thus expresses himself : 
 
 " A plain man may be apt to ask, ' But if this, then, though enjoined in the Holy 
 Scriptures, is to be my real aim and intention, when I am taught to pray for other per- 
 sons, why is it that I do not plainly so express it ? Why is not the form of the petition 
 brought nearer to the meaning ? Give them, say I to our heavenly Father, what is 
 good. But this, I am to understand, will be as it will be, and is not for me to alter. 
 What is it, then, that I am doing P I am desiring to become charitable myself; and 
 why may I not plainly say so ? Is there shame in it, or impiety ? The wish is lauda- 
 ble : why should I form designs to hide it ? 
 
 " Or is it, perhaps, better to be brought about by indirect means, and in this artful 
 manner ? Alas ! who is it that I would impose on ? From whom can it be, in this 
 commerce, that I desire to hide anything ? When, as my Saviour commands me, I 
 have entered into my closet, and shut my door, there are but two parties privy to my 
 devotions, God and my own heart ; which of the two am I deceiving ?" 
 
 He wished to have more books ; and, upon inquiring if there were 
 any in the house, was told that a waiter had some, which were brought 
 to him ; but I recollect none of them, except " Hervey's Meditations." 
 He thought slightingly of this admired book. He treated it with 
 ridicule, and would not allow even the scene of the dying husband 
 and father to be pathetic. I am not an impartial j udge ; for " Her- 
 vey's Meditations" engaged my affections in my early years. He 
 read a passage concerning the moon ludicrously, and showed how 
 easily he could, in the same style, make reflections on that planet, the 
 very reverse of Hervey's, representing her as treacherous to mankind. 
 He did this with much humour ; but I have not preserved the par- 
 ticulars. He then indulged a playful fancy, in making a " Meditation 
 on a Padding," of which I hastily wrote down, in his presence, the 
 following note, which, though imperfect, may serve to give my readers 
 some idea of it : 
 
 MEDITATION ON A PUDDING. 
 
 Let us seriously reflect of what a pudding is composed. It is composed of flour 
 that once waved in the golden grain, and drank the dews of the morning; of milk 
 pressed from the swelling udder by the gentle hand of the beauteous milk-maid, whose 
 beauty and innocence might have recommended a worse draught; who, while she 
 stroked the u'.lder, indulged no ambitious thoughts of wandering in palaces, formed no 
 plans for the destruction of her fellow-creatures : milk, which is drawn from the cow, 
 that useful animal, that eats the grass of the field, and supplies us with that which 
 made the greatest part of the food of mankind in the age which the poets have agreed 
 to call golden. It is made with an egg, that miracle of nature, which the theoretical 
 Bnrnet has compared to creation. An egg contains water within its beautiful smooth 
 surface ; and an unformed mass, by the incubation of the parent, becomes a regular 
 animal, furnished with bones and sinews, and covered with feathers. Let us consider ;
 
 380 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 can there be more wanting to complete the meditation on a pudding ? If more is 
 wanting, more may be found. It conte'ns salt, which keeps the sea from putrefaction ; 
 salt, which is made the image of intellectual excellence, contributes to the formation 
 of a pudding. 
 
 In a magazine I found a saying of Dr. Johnson's, something to 
 this purpose that the happiest part of a man's life is what he passes 
 lying awake in hed in the morning. I read it to him. He said, " I 
 may, perhaps, have said this ; for nobody, at times, talks more laxly 
 than I do." I ventured to suggest to him, that this was dangerous 
 from one of his authority. 
 
 I spoke of living in the country, and upon what footing one should 
 be with neighbours. I observed that some people were afraid of being 
 on too easy a footing with them, from an apprehension that their 
 time would not be their own. He made the obvious remark, that it 
 depended much on what kind of neighbours one has, whether it was 
 desirable to be on an easy footing with them, or not. I mentioned a 
 certain baronet, who told me, he never was happy in the country, till 
 he was not on speaking terms with his neighbours, which he con- 
 trived in different ways to bring about. " Lord (said he) stuck 
 
 long; but at last the fellow pounded my pigs, and then I got rid of 
 him." JOHNSOX : " Nay, sir, my lord got rid of Sir John, and showed 
 how little he valued him, by putting his pigs in the pound." 
 
 I told Dr. Johnson I was in some difficulty how to act at Inverary. 
 I had reason to think that the Duchess of Argyle disliked me, on 
 account of my zeal in the Douglas cause ; but the Duke of Argyle 
 had always been pleased to treat me with great civility. They were 
 now at the castle, which is a very short walk from our inn ; and the 
 question was, whether I should go and pay my respects there. Dr. 
 Johnson, to whom I stated the case, was clear that I ought ; but, in 
 his usual way, he was very shy of discovering a desire to be invited 
 there himself. Though, from a conviction of the benefit of subordina- 
 tion to society, he has always shown great respect to persons of high 
 rank, when he happened to be in their company, yet his pride of 
 character has ever^made him guard against any appearance of courting 
 the great. Besides, he was impatient to go to Glasgow, where he 
 expected letters. At the same time, he was, 1 believe, secretly not 
 unwilling to have attention paid him by so great a chieftain, and so ex- 
 alted a nobleman. He insisted that I should not go to the castle this 
 day before dinner, as it would look like seeking an invitation. " But," 
 (said I,) if the duke invites us to dine with him to-morrow, shall we 
 accept ? " Yes, sir," I think he said ; " to be sure." But he added : 
 " He won't ask us !" I mentioned, that I was afraid my company 
 might be disagreeable to the duchess. He treated this objection with
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 281 
 
 a manly disdain : " That, sir, he must settle with his wife." We 
 dined well. I went to the castle just about the time when I supposed 
 the ladies would be retired from dinner. I sent in my name ; and, 
 being shown in, found the amiable duke sitting at the head of his 
 table, with several gentlemen. I was most politely received, and 
 gave his grace some particulars of the curious journey which I had 
 been making with Dr. Johnson. When we rose from table, the duke 
 said to me, "I hope you and Dr. Johnson will dine with us to-mor- 
 row." I thanked his grace; but told him, my friend was in a great 
 hurry to get back to London. The duke, with a kind complaisance, 
 said, " He will stay one day ; and I will take care he shall see this 
 place to advantage." I said, I should be sure to let him know his 
 grace's invitation. As I was going away, the duke said, " Mr. Bos- 
 well, won't you have some tea ?" I thought it best to get over the 
 meeting with the duchess this night ; so respectfully agreed. I was 
 conducted to the drawing-room by the duke, who announced my 
 name ; but the duchess, who was sitting with her daughter, Lady 
 Betty Hamilton, and some other ladies, took not the least notice of 
 me. I should have been mortified at being thus coldly received by a 
 lady, of whom I, with the rest of the world, have always entertained 
 a very high admiration, had I not been consoled by the obliging atten- 
 tion of the duke. 
 
 When I returned to the inn, I informed Dr. Johnson of the Duke 
 of Argyle's invitation, with which he was much pleased, and readily 
 accepted of it. We talked of a violent contest which was then carry- 
 ing on, with a view to the next general election for Ayrshire ; where 
 one of the candidates, in order to undermine the old and established 
 interest, had artfully held himself out as a champion for the indepen- 
 dency of the county against aristocratic influence, and had persuaded 
 several gentlemen into a resolution to oppose every candidate who 
 was supported by peers. " Foolish fellows ! (said Dr. Johnson,) don't 
 they see that they are as much dependent upon the peers one way as 
 the other. The peers have but to oppose a candidate to ensure him 
 success. It is said the only way to make a pig go forward, is to pull 
 him back by the tail. These people must be treated like pigs." 
 
 MONDAY, OCTOBER 25. 
 
 My acquaintance, the lleverend Mr. John Macaulay, one of the 
 ministers of Inverary, and brother to our good friend at Calder, came 
 to us this morning, and accompanied us to the castle, where I pre- 
 sented Dr. Johnson to the Duke of Argyle. We were shown through 
 the house ; and I never shall forget the impression made upon my 
 fancy by some of the ladies' maids tripping about in neat morning
 
 283 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 JXVEIIART CASTLE. 
 
 dresses. After seeing for a long time little but rusticity, their lively 
 manner, and gay, inviting appearance, pleased me so much, that I 
 thought, for the moment, I could have been a knight-errant for them.* 
 
 We then got into a low one-horse chair, ordered for us by the 
 duke, in which we drove about the place. Dr. Johnson was much 
 struck by the grandeur and elegance of this princely seat. He 
 thought, however, the castle too low, and wished it had been a storey 
 higher. He said, " What I admire here, is the total defiance of 
 expense." I had a particular pride in showing him a great number 
 of fine, old trees, to compensate for the nakedness which had made 
 such an impression on him on the eastern coast of Scotland. 
 
 When we came in, before dinner, we found the duke and some 
 gentlemen in the hall. Dr. Johnson took much notice of the large 
 collection of arms, which are excellently disposed there. I told what 
 he had said to Sir Alexander Macdonald, of his ancestors not suffering 
 their arms to rust. " Well," said the doctor, but let us be glad we 
 live in times when arms may rust. We can sit to-day at his grace's 
 table without any risk of being attacked, and perhaps sitting down 
 again wounded or maimed." The duke placed Dr. Johnson next 
 himself at table. I was in fine spirits ; and though sensible that I 
 had the misfortune of not being in favour with the duchess, I was not 
 
 * On reflection, at the distance of several years, I wonder that nay venerable 
 fellow-traveller should have read this passage without censoring my levity. BOSWELL .
 
 TO THE HE15IUDKS. 
 
 283 
 
 in the least disconcerted, and offered her grace some of the dish that 
 was before me. It must be owned that I was in the right to be quite 
 unconcerned, if I could. I was the Duke of Argyle's guest ; and I 
 had no reason to suppose that he adopted the prejudices and resent- 
 ments of the Duchess of Hamilton. 
 
 I knew it was the rule of mo- 
 dern high life not to drink to any 
 body ; but that I might have the 
 satisfaction for once to look the 
 duchess in the face, with a glass 
 in my hand, I, with a respectful 
 air, addressed her : " My lady 
 duchess, I have the honour to 
 drink your grace's good health." 
 I repeated the words audibly, and 
 with a steady countenance. This 
 was, perhaps, rather too much; 
 but some allowance must be made 
 for human feelings. 
 
 The duchess was very atten- 
 tive to Dr. Johnson. I know not 
 how a middle state came to be men- 
 tioned. Her grace wished to hearhim on that point. " Madam," 
 said he, " your own relation, Mr. Archibald Caorpbcll, can tell you 
 better about it than I can. He was a bishop of the Nonjuring com- 
 munion, and wrote a book upon the subject." * He engaged to 
 get it for her grace. He afterwards gave a full history of Mr. 
 Archibald Campbell, which I am sorry I do not recollect particularly. 
 He said, Mr. Campbell had been bred a violent Whig, but afterwards 
 " kept better company, and became a Tory." He said this with a 
 smile, in pleasant allusion as I thought, to the opposition between 
 
 THE DUCHESS OF HAMILTON. 
 
 * As this book is now become very scarce, I shall subjoin the title, which is 
 carious : 
 
 " The Doctrines of a Middle State, between Death and the Resurrection : of 
 Prayers for the Dead ; and the Necessity of Purification ; plainly proved from the 
 Holy Scriptures, and the Writings of the Fathers of the Primitive Church : and ac- 
 knowledged by several learned Fathers and Great Divines of the Church of England 
 and others since the Reformation. To which is added an Appendix concerning tba 
 Descent of the Soul of Christ into Hell, while his Body lay in the Grave. Together 
 with the judgment of the Reverend Dr. Hickes concerning this Book, so far as relates 
 to a Middle State, particular Judgment, and Prayers for the Dead, as it appeared in the 
 first edition. And a manuscript of the Right Koverend Bishop Overall upon the sub- 
 ject of a Middle State, and never before printed. Also a preservative against several 
 of the errors of the Roman Church, in six small treatises. By the Honourable Archi- 
 bald Campbell." (Folio, 1721.) Bos WELL.
 
 284 JOURNAL OF A TOUK 
 
 his own political principles and those of the duke's clan. He 
 added that Mr. Campbell, after the revolution, was thrown into gaol 
 on account of his tenets; but, on application by letter to the 
 old Lord Townshend, was released : that he always spoke of his 
 lordship with great gratitude, saying, "though a Wliig, he had 
 humanity." 
 
 Dr. Johnson and I passed some time together, in June, 1784, at 
 Pembroke College, Oxford, with the Reverend Dr. Adams, the 
 master; and I having expressed a regret that my note relative to 
 Mr. Archibald Campbell was imperfect, he was then so good as to 
 write with his own hand, on the blank page of my Journal, opposite 
 to that which contains what I have mentioned, the following para- 
 graph, which however, is not quite so full as the narrative he gave 
 at Inverary : 
 
 " The Honourable Archibald Campbell was, I believe, the nephew [grandson] of the 
 Marquis of Argyle. He began life by engaging in Monmonth's rebellion, and, to 
 escape the law, lived some time in Surinam. When he returned, he became zealous 
 for episcopacy and monarchy ; and at the Revolution adhered not only to the Non- 
 jurors, but to those who refused to communicate with the Church of England, or to 
 be present at any worship where the usurper was mentioned as king. He was, I 
 believe, more than once apprehended in the reign of King "William, and once at the 
 accession of George. He was the familar friend of Hicks and Nelson ; a man of 
 letters, but injudicious ; and very curious and inquisitive, but credulous. He lived in 
 1743 or 1744; about 75 years old." 
 
 The subject of luxury having been introduced, Dr. Johnson 
 defended it. "We have now," said he, " a splendid dinner before us ; 
 which of all these dishes is unwholesome ? " The duke asserted, that 
 he had observed the grandees of Spain diminished in their size by 
 luxury. Dr. Johnson politely refrained from opposing directly an 
 observation which the duke himself had made ; but said, " Man must 
 be very different from other animals, if he is diminished by good 
 living ; for the size of all other animals is increased by it." I made 
 some remark that seemed to imply a belief in second sight. The 
 duchess said, " I fancy you will be a Methodist." This was the only 
 sentence her grace deigned to utter to me ; and I take it for granted 
 she thought it a good hit on my credulity in the Douglas cause. 
 
 A gentleman in company, after dinner, was desired by the duke 
 to go into another room, for a specimen of curious marble, which his 
 grace wished to shew us. He brought a wrong piece, upon which 
 the duke sent him back again. He could not refuse ; but, to avoid 
 any appearance of servility, he whistled as he walked out of the room, 
 to shew his independency. On my mentioning this afterwards to 
 Dr. Johnson, he said, it was a nice trait of character.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 885 
 
 Dr. Johnson talked a great deal, and was so entertaining, that 
 Ladj r Betty Hamilton, after dinner, went and placed her chair close 
 to his, leaned upon the back of it, and listened eagerly. It would 
 have made a fine picture to have drawn the sage and her at this time 
 in their several attitudes. He did not know, all the while, how 
 much he was honoured. I told him afterwards. I never saw him so 
 gentle and complaisant as this day. 
 
 We went to tea. The duke and I walked up and down the draw- 
 ing-room, conversing. The duchess still continued to show the same 
 marked coldness for me ; for which, though I suffered from it, I made 
 every allowance, considering the very warm part I had taken for 
 Douglas, in the cause in which she thought her son deeply interested.* 
 Had not her grace discovered some displeasure towards me, I should 
 have suspected her of insensibility or dissimulation. 
 
 Her grace made Dr. Johnson come and sit by her, and asked him 
 why he made his journy so kite in the year. " Why, madam," said 
 he, " you know Mr. Boswell most attend the Court of Session, and 
 it does not rise till the twelfth of August." She said, with some sharp- 
 ness, "I know nothing of Mr. Boswell." Poor Lady Lucy Douglas, to 
 whom I mentioned this, observed, " She knew too much of Mr. 
 Boswell." I shall make no remark on her grace's speech. I indeed 
 felt it as rather too severe ; but when I recollected that my punish- 
 ment Avas inflicted by so dignified a beauty, I had that kind of 
 consolation which a man would feel who is strangled by a silken cord. 
 Dr. Johnson was all attention to her grace. He used afterwards a 
 droll expression, upon her enjoying the three titles of Hamilton, 
 Brandon, and Argyle. Borrowing an image from the Turkish 
 empire, he called her a duchess with three tails. 
 
 He was much pleased with our visit at the castle of Inverary. 
 The Duke of Argyle was exceedingly polite to him, and, upon his 
 complaining of the shelties which he had hitherto ridden being too 
 small for him, his grace told him he should be provided with a good 
 horse to carry him next day. 
 
 Mr. John Macaulay passed the evening with us at our inn. 
 When Dr. Johnson spoke of people whose principles were good, but 
 whose practice was faulty, Mr. Macaulay said, he had no notion of 
 people being in earnest in their good professions, whose practice was 
 not suitable to them. The Doctor grew warm, and said, " Sir, are 
 you so grossly ignorant of human nature, as not to know that a 
 man may be very sincere in good principles, without having good 
 
 practice ? " 
 
 
 
 * He was the unsuccessful competitor for the Douglas property. Frequent refer- 
 ence is made to this great " cause " in the " Life of Johnson." ED.
 
 2S6 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Dr. Johnson was unquestionably in the right; and "whoever 
 examines himself candidly, will be satisfied of it, though the incon- 
 sistency between principles and practice is greater in some men 
 than in others. 
 
 I recollect very little of this night's conversation. I am sorry 
 that indolence came on me towards the conclusion of our journey, 
 so that I did not write down what passed with the same assiduity as 
 during the greatest part of it. 
 
 TUESDAY, OCTOBER 26. 
 
 Mr. Macaulay breakfasted with us, nothing hurt or dismayed by 
 his last night's correction. Being a man of good sense, he had a just 
 admiration of Dr. Johnson.* 
 
 * Mr. Macaulay had previously been minister of gouth Uist and Lismore. In 17-Vi 
 he was translated to Inverary, and afterwards he left InTerary on receiving a pre- 
 sentation to Cardross, iu Dumbartonshire, where he died in 1789. This gentleman was 
 the founder of an illustrious family. Zachary Macaulay, the associate of Wilberforc 3 
 and Clarkson in the abolition of slavery, was his son ; the Right Hon. Thomas Babing- 
 ton Macaulay is his prandson. Allusion has been made (see an?p,p.84) to Mr. Kenneth 
 Macaulay of C alder, brother of the minister of Inverary, and to Johnson's ofler to pro-
 
 TO THE IIEBniDES. 287 
 
 Either j'esterday morning or this, I communicated to Dr. John- 
 son, from Mr. Macaulay's information, the news that Dr. Beattie had 
 got a pension of two hundred pounds a-year. He sat up in his 
 bed, clapped his hands, arid cried, " O brave we !" a peculiar 
 exclamation of his when he rejoices.* 
 
 As we sat over our tea, Mr. Home's tragedy of Douglas was 
 mentioned. I put Dr. Johnson in mind, that once, in a coffee-house 
 at Oxford, he called to old Mr. Sheridan, " How came you, sir, to give 
 Home a gold medal for writing that foolish play ?" and defied Mr. 
 Sheridan to show ten good lines in it. He did not insist they should 
 be together ; but that there were not ten good lines in the whole- 
 play. He now persisted in this. I endeavoured to defend that 
 pathetic and beautiful tragedy, and repeated the following passage . 
 
 " Sincerity, 
 
 Thou first of virtues! let no mortal leave 
 Thy onward path, although the earth should gnpe, 
 And from the gulf of hell destruction cry, 
 To take dissimulation's winding way." 
 
 JOHNSON : " That will not do, sir. Nothing is good but what is 
 consistent with truth or probability, which this is not. Juvenal, 
 indeed, gives us a noble picture of inflexible virtue : 
 
 " Esto bonus miles, tutor bonus, arbiter idem 
 Integer : ambigufe si quando citabere testis, 
 Incerteeque rei, Phalaris licet imperet, ut sis 
 Falsus, et admoto dictet perjuria tauro, 
 
 euro a servitorship at Oxford for hie son. We have since learned that the young man 
 (who bore tho family name ef Aulay Macaulay) entered the navy, and died in 1842 a 
 retired officer of Marines. The statement made by Bo8well,that Mr. Kenneth Macaulay 
 did not writs the History of St. Kilda which bears his name, but merely collected the 
 materials, was always strenuously denied by his family and friends. The late Rev. 
 Aulay Macaulay, a clergyman near Leicester, intended republishiog the History of St. 
 Kilda, with notes, showing the work to have been altogether his nncle's composition ; 
 but he died before accomplishing his task. There is no appearance of two hands being 
 engaged in the work; one person must have written the whole; and it is certainly 
 improbable that Dr. Macpherson of Skye should have allowed Macaulay to usurp the 
 entire honours of the History, if he had himself been virtually the author of it. The 
 book is a respectable volume of 278 pages. As Macaulay and Macpherson were not 
 only brother clergymen in the Highlands, but intimate personal associates, the latter 
 may have helped his friend to an occasional classical illustration or correction ; for 
 Dr. Macpherson, as Johnson acknowledged, had" a great deal of Latin, and good Latin." 
 This conjectural assistance, however, should not deprive the minister of Calder of the 
 substantial honours of his History especially as Mr. Macaulay was otherwise rather 
 scurvily and indelicately treated by the travellers. ED. 
 
 * Having mentioned more than once that my Journal was perused by Dr. Johnson, 
 I think it proper to inform my readers that this is the last paragraph which he read. 
 BOSWRLL.
 
 288 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Summum erede nefas anininm praeferre pudori, 
 Et propter vitam vivendi perdere causas."* 
 
 He repeated the lines with great force and dignity ; then added, 
 " And after this, comes Johnny Home, with his earth gaping, and his 
 destruction crying /Pooh !"f 
 
 While we were lamenting the number of ruined religious buildings 
 which we had lately seen, I spoke with peculiar feeling of the 
 miserable neglect of the chapel belonging to the palace of Holy rood- 
 house, in which are deposited the remains of many of the Kings of 
 Scotland, and of many of our nobility. I said, it was a disgrace to 
 the country that it was not repaired : and particularly complained 
 that my friend Douglas, the representative of a great house, and 
 proprietor of a vast estate, should suffer the sacred spot where his 
 mother lies interred, to be unroofed, and exposed to all the inclemencies 
 of the weather. Dr. Johnson, who, I know not how, had formed an 
 opinion on the Hamilton side, in the Douglas cause, slily answered, 
 " Sir, sir, don't be too severe upon the gentleman ; don't accuse him 
 of want of filial piety! Lady Jane Douglas was not his mother." 
 He roused my zeal so much that I took the liberty to tell him he 
 knew nothing of the cause: which I do most seriously believe was 
 the case. 
 
 We were now " in a country of bridles and saddles," and set 
 out fully equipped. The Duke of Argyle was obliging enough to 
 mount Dr. Johnson on a stately steed from his grace's stable. My 
 friend was highly pleased, and Joseph said, " He now looks like 
 a bishop." 
 
 We dined at the inn at Tarbat, and at night came to Rosedow, 
 the beautiful seat of Sir James Colquhoun, on the banks of Loch- 
 lomond, where I, and any friends whom I have introduced, have ever 
 been received with kind and elegant hospitality. 
 
 * An honest guardian, arbitrator just, 
 
 Be thou ; thy station deem a sacred trust. 
 
 With thy good sword maintain thy country's cause ; 
 
 In every action venerate its laws : 
 
 The lie suborned if falsely urged to swear, 
 
 Though torture wait thee, torture firmly bear ; 
 
 To forfeit honour think the highest shame, 
 
 And life too dearly bought by loss of fame ; 
 
 Nor to preserve it, with thy virtue give 
 
 That for which only man should wish to live." 
 
 For this and the other translations to which no signature is affixed, I am indebted 
 to the friend whose observations are mentioned in the notes, pp. 53 and 312 BOSWELZ, 
 t I am sorry that I was unlucky in my quotation. But notwithstanding the acute- 
 ness of Dr. Johnson's criticism/and the power of his ridicule, the tragedy of " Douglas" 
 still continues to be generally and deservedly admired. BOSWELL. [He had quoted 
 the same passage in his "Essence of the Douglas Cause." ED.]
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 289 
 
 WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 27. 
 
 When I went into Dr. Johnson's room this morning, I observed 
 to him how wonderfully courteous he had been at Inverary, and said, 
 " You were quite a fine gentleman, when with the duchess." He 
 answered, in good humour, " Sir, I look upon myself as a very polite 
 man :" and he was right, in a proper manly sense of the word. As 
 an immediate proof pf it, let me observe, that he would not send back 
 the Duke of Argyle's horse without a letter of thanks, which I copied. 
 
 TO HIS GRACE THE DUKE OP ARGYLL 
 
 MY LORD, That kindness which disposed your jrrace to supply me with the horse,, 
 which I have now returned, will make you pleased to hear that he has carried me well. 
 
 By my diligence in the little commission with which I was honoured by the 
 duchess, I will endeavour to show how highly I value the favours which I have 
 received, and how much I desire to be thought, my lord, your grace's most obedient 
 and most humble servant, 
 
 SAM. JOIIXSOK. 
 
 Rosedow, Oct. 29, 1773. 
 
 The Duke was so attentive to his respectable guest, that on the 
 same day, he wrote him an answer, which was received at Auchinleck : 
 
 1O DB. JOHNSON, AUCHINLECK. AYRSHIRE. 
 
 SIR. I am glad to hear your journey from this place was not unpleasant, in 
 regard to your horse. I wish I could have supplied you with good weather, which 1 
 am afraid you felt the want of. 
 
 The Duchess of Argyle desires her compliments to you, and is much obliged to 
 you for remembering her commission. I am, sir, your most obedient humble servant, 
 
 ARGYLE. 
 
 Inverary, Oct. 29, 1773. 
 
 I am happy to insert every memorial of the honour done to my 
 great friend. Indeed, I was at all times desirous to preserve the 
 letters which he received from eminent persons, of which, as of all 
 other papers, he was very negligent; and I once proposed to him, 
 that they should be committed to my care, as his Custos Rotulorum. 
 I wish he had complied with my request, as by that means many 
 valuable writings might have been preserved that are now lost.* 
 
 After breakfast, Dr. Johnson and I were furnished with a boat, 
 and sailed about upon Lochlomond, and landed on some of the islands 
 
 Asa remarkable instance of his negligence, I remember Rome years ago to have 
 found lying loose in his study, and without the cover, which contained the address, a 
 letter to him, from Lord Thurlow, to whom be had made an application as Chancellor, 
 in behalf of a poor literary friend. It was expressed in such terms of respect for Dr. 
 Johnson that, in my zeal for his reputation, I remonstrated warmly with him on his 
 strange inattention, and obtained his permission to take a copy of it; by which pro- 
 bably it has been preserved, aa the original, I have reason to suppose, is lost. BOSWELL. 
 
 T
 
 290 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOT'R 
 
 LOCH LOMOND. 
 
 which are interspersed. He was much pleased -with the scene, which 
 is so well known by the accounts of various travellers, that it is unne- 
 cessarj' for me to attempt any description of it. 
 
 I recollect none of his conversation, except that, when talking of 
 dress, he said, " Sir, were I to have anything fine, it should be very 
 fine. Were I to wear a ring, it should not be a bauble, but a stone 
 of great value. Were I to wear a laced or embroidered waistcoat, it 
 should be very rich. I had once a very rich laced waistcoat, which I 
 wore the first night of my tragedy." 
 
 Lady Helen Colquhoun being a very pious woman, the conversa- 
 tion, after dinner, took a religious turn.* Her ladyship defended the 
 Presbyterian mode of public worship ; upon which Dr. Johnson deli- 
 vered those excellent arguments for a form of prayer which he has 
 introduced into his " Journey." I am myself fully convinced that a 
 form of prayer for public worship is, in general, most decent and edi- 
 fying. Solennia verba have a kind of prescriptive sanctity, and make 
 
 * This lady was a daughter of Loid Strathnaver, son of the Earl of Sutherland. 
 She died at Rosedow Hoaae, January 7th, 1791. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. Ml 
 
 a deeper impression on the mind than extemporaneous effusions, in 
 which, as we know not what they are to be, we cannot readily acqui- 
 esce. Yet I would allow, also, of a certain portion of extempore 
 address, as occasion may require. This is the practice of the French 
 Protestant churches ; and, although the office of forming supplications 
 to the throne of Heaven is, in my mind, too great a trust to be indis- 
 criminately committed to the discretion of every minister, I do not 
 mean to deny that sincere devotion may be experienced when joining 
 in prayer with those who use no liturgy. 
 
 We were favoured with Sir James Colquhoun's coach to convey us 
 in the evening to Cameron, the seat of Commissary Smollett. Our 
 satisfaction of finding ourselves again in a comfortable carriage was 
 very great We had a pleasing conviction of the commodiousness of 
 civilisation, and heartily laughed at the ravings of those absurd vision- 
 aries who have attempted to persuade us of the superior advantages 
 of a state of nature. 
 
 Mr. Smollett was a man of considerable learning, with abundance 
 of animal spirits ; so that he was a very good companion for l)r. 
 Johnson, who said to me, " We have had more solid talk here than 
 at any place where we have been." 
 
 I remember Dr. Johnson gave us this evening an able and elo- 
 quent discourse on the " Origin of Evil," and on the consistency of 
 moral evil with the power and goodness of GOD. He showed us how 
 it arose from our free agency, an extinction of which would be a still 
 greater evil than any we experience. I know not that he said any- 
 thing absolutely new, but he said a great deal wonderfully well ; and, 
 perceiving us to be delighted and satisfied, he concluded his harangue 
 with an air of benevolent triumph over an objection which has dis- 
 tressed many worthy minds : " This, then, is the answer to the 
 question, Hodev TO KO.KOV?" Mrs. Smollett whispered me, that it 
 was the best sermon she had ever heard. Much do I upbraid myself 
 for having neglected to preserve it. 
 
 THURSDAY, OCTOBER 28. 
 
 Mr. Smollett pleased Dr. Johnson, by producing a collection of 
 newspapers in the time of the Usurpation, from which it appeared 
 that all sorts of crimes were very frequent during that horrible 
 anarchy. By the side of the high road to Glasgow, at some distance 
 from his house, he had erected a pillar to the memory of his inge- 
 nious kinsman, Dr. Smollett; and he consulted Dr. Johnson as to an 
 inscription for it. Lord Kames, who, though he had a great store of 
 knowledge, with much ingenuity and uncommon activity of mind, was 
 no profound scholar, had, it seems, recommended an English inscrip- 
 
 T 2
 
 2 JOUENAL OF A TOUR 
 
 tion. Dr. Johnson treated this with great contempt, saying, "An 
 English inscription would be a disgrace to Dr. Smollett;" and, in 
 answer to what Lord Kames had urged, as to the advantage of its 
 being in English because it would be generally understood, I observed, 
 that all to whom Dr. Smollett's merit could be an object of respect 
 and imitation would understand it as well in Latin, and that surely 
 it was not meant for the Highland drovers, or other such people, who 
 pass and repass that way. 
 
 We were then shown a Latin inscription proposed for this monu- 
 ment. Dr. Johnson sat down with an ardent and liberal earnestness 
 to revise it, and greatly improved it by several additions and varia- 
 tions. I unfortunately did not take a copy of it as it originally stood, 
 but I have happily preserved every fragment of what Dr. Johnson 
 wrote : 
 
 Quisquis ades, viator, 
 Vel mente felix, vel studiis coitus, 
 
 Immorare paululum memorise 
 TOBI.E SMOLLETT, MD. 
 
 Viri iis virtutibus 
 
 Quas in homine et cive 
 
 Et laudes, et imiteris, 
 
 * * * * 
 
 Postquam mira * * * 
 
 Tali tantoque viro, suo patrueli, 
 * * * 
 
 Hanc columnam, 
 Amoris eheu ! inane monumentum, 
 
 In ipsis Leviniae ripis, 
 
 Quas primis infans vagitibns personuifc, 
 
 Versiculisque jam fere raoriturus illustravit, 
 
 Poneiidam curavit* 
 
 * The epitaph which has been inscribed on the pillar erected on the banks of the 
 Leven, in honour of Dr. Smollett, is as follows. The part which was written by Dr- 
 Johnson, it apears, has been altered; whether for the better, the reader will judge. 
 Tii alterations are distinguished by Italics: 
 
 Siste viator! 
 
 Si lepores ingeniique venam benignam, 
 Si msrum callidissimum pictorem, 
 
 L'nquam ea miratus, 
 
 Immorare paululum memories 
 
 TOBI^E SMOLLETT, M.D. 
 
 Viri virtutibus kuce 
 Quas in homine et cive 
 
 Et laudes et imiteris, 
 Huud mediocriter ornati :
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 233 
 
 We had this morning a singular proof of Dr. Johnson's quick and 
 retentive memory. Hay's translation of Martial -was lying in a 
 window. I said, I thought it was pretty well done, and showed him 
 a particular epigram, I think, of ten, but am certain of eight lines. 
 He read it, and tossed away the book, saying " No, it is not pretty 
 well." As I persisted in my opinion, he said, " Why, sir, the original 
 is thus, " (and he repeated it) " and this man's translation is thus," 
 and then he repeated that also, exactly, though he had never seen 
 
 Qui in literis varii versatus, 
 
 Postquam felicitate sibi proprid 
 
 Bese posteris commendaverat, 
 
 Morte acerba raptus 
 
 Anno aetatis SI, 
 
 Eheu .' quatn procul a patria! 
 
 Prope Liburui portum in Italia, 
 
 Jacet sepultus. 
 Tali tantoque viro, patrneli suo, 
 
 Cni in decursu lampada 
 Se potius tradidisse decuit, 
 
 Hanc Columnani, 
 Amoris, ebeu! inane mouumentum 
 
 In ipsis Levinise ripis 
 
 Qtias versiculis sub exitu vitce illustrata* 
 
 Primis infana vagitibns personuit, 
 
 1 'on end am curavit 
 JACOBUS SMOLLETT da Bonhill. 
 
 Abi et reminiscere, 
 
 Hoc quidem honore, 
 
 Non mode defunct! memoriae, 
 
 Yeruin etiam exemplo, prospectum ease ; 
 
 Aliis ciiiin, si modo digni bint, 
 
 Idem erit virtutis prsemium ! 
 
 [TRANSLATION. "Stay, traveller! If elegance of taste and wit, if fertility of genins, 
 and an unrivalled talent in delineating the characters of mankind have ever attracted 
 thy admiration, pause awhile on the memory of Tobias Smollett, M.D. ; one more 
 than commonly endued with those virtues which, in a man or citizen, you could praise 
 or imitate ; who, having secured the applause of posterity by a variety of literary 
 abilities, and a peculiar felicity of composition, was, by a rapid and cruel distemper, 
 snatched from the world in the fifty-first year of his age. Far, alas ! from his native 
 country, he lies interred near Leghorn, in Italy. In testimony of his many and great 
 virtues, this empty monument, the only pledge, alas ! of his affection, is erected on the 
 Vmnks of the Leven, the scene of his birth and of his latest poetry, by James Smol- 
 lett of Bonhill, his cousin*, who should rather have expected this last tribute from 
 him. Go, and remember this honour was not given aloue to the memory of the de- 
 ceased, but for the encouragement of others: deserve like him, aad be alike re- 
 warded!" LIFE OF SMOLLETT. 
 
 The inscription submitted to Johnson was the joint production of Professor George 
 Stuart, of Edinburgh, and Mr. Ramsay, of Ochtertyre. Smollett of Bonhill, who 
 erected the monument, did nothing for his distinguished relative while living, and 
 left the novelist's widow to appeal to the public for relief. It is melancholy to think 
 of this, and to know that if Smollett had lived a few years longer he would have in- 
 herited the property, worth about 1,000;. per annum. ED.]
 
 294 
 
 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 it before, and read it over only once, and that, too, without any 
 intention of getting it by heart. 
 
 Here a post-chaise, which I had ordered from Glasgow, came for 
 
 GLASGOW IN 
 
 (from a contemporary print). 
 
 us, and we drove on in high spirits. We stopped at Dunbarton, and 
 though the approach to the castle there is very steep, Dr. Johnson 
 ascended it with alacrity and surveyed all that was to be seen. 
 During the whole of our tour, he showed uncommon spirit, could 
 not bear to be treated like an old or infirm man, and was very un- 
 willing to accept of any assistance, insomuch that, at our landing at 
 Icolmkill, when Sir Allan Maclean and I submitted to be carried on 
 men's shoulders from the boat to the shore, as it could not be brought 
 quite close to land, he sprang into the sea and waded vigorously 
 out. 
 
 On our arrival at the Saracen's Head Inn, at Glasgow, I was made 
 happy by good accounts from home ; and Dr. Johnson, who had not 
 received a single letter since we left Aberdeen, found here a great 
 many, the perusal of which entertained him much. He enjoyed in 
 imagination the comforts which we could now command, and seemed 
 to be in high glee. I remember, he put a leg up on each side of the 
 grate and said, with a mock solemnity, by way of soliloquy, but loud 
 enough for me to hear it, " Here am I, an ENGLISH man, sitting by 
 a coal fire."
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 
 
 295 
 
 NSON ENJOYING 
 
 COII. FI11E 
 
 FRIDAY, OCTOBER 29. 
 
 The professors of the university being informed of our arrival, 
 Dr. Stevenson, Dr. Reid, and Mr. Anderson, breakfasted with us. 
 Mr. Anderson accompanied us while Dr. Johnson viewed this beau- 
 tiful city. He had told me. that one day in London, when Dr. Adurn 
 Smith was boasting of it, he turned to him and said, " Pray, sir, have 
 you ever seen Brentford?" This was surely a strong instance of his 
 impatience and spirit of contradiction. I put him in mind of it to-day, 
 while he expressed his admiration of the elegant buildings, and whis- 
 pered him, " Don't you feel some remorse ?" 
 
 We were received in the college by a number of the professors, 
 who showed all due respect to Dr. Johnson ; and then we paid a visit 
 to the principal, Dr. Leechman, at his own house, where Dr. Johnson 
 had the satisfaction of being told that his name had been gratefully 
 celebrated in one of the parochial congregations in the Highlands, as 
 the person to whose influence it was chiefly owing that the New 
 Testament was allowed to be translated into the Erse language. It 
 seems some political members of the Society in Scotland for propa-
 
 296 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 gating Christian Knowledge, had opposed this pious undertaking, as 
 tending to preserve the distiction between the Highlanders and Lo\v- 
 landers. Dr. Johnson wrote a long letter upon : the subject to a friend, 
 which being shown to them, made them ashamed, and afraid of being 
 publicly exposed ; so they were forced to a compliance. It is now in 
 my possession, and is, perhaps, one of the best productions of his 
 masterly pen.* 
 
 Professors Reid and Anderson, and the two Messieurs Fdulis, the 
 Elzevirs of Glasgow, dined and drank tea with us at our inn, after 
 which, the professors went away ; and I, having a letter to write, 
 left my fellow-traveller with Messieurs Foulis. Though good and 
 ingenious men, they had that unsettled speculative mode of conver- 
 sation which is offensive to a man regularly taught at an English 
 school and university. I found that, instead of listening to the 
 dictates of the sage, they had teazed him with questions and doubtful 
 disputations. He came in a flutter to me and desired I might come 
 back again, for he could not bear these men. " O ho ! sir," said I, 
 " you are flying to me for refuge!" He never, in any situation, was 
 at a loss for a ready repartee. He answered, with a quick vivacity, 
 " It is of two evils choosing the least/' I was delighted with this flash 
 bursting from the cloud which hung upon his mind, closed my letter 
 directly, and joined the company. 
 
 We supped at Professor Anderson's. The general impression upon 
 my memory is, that we had not much conversation at Glasgow, where 
 the professors, like their brethren at Aberdeen, did not venture to 
 expose themselves much to the battery of cannon which they knew 
 might play upon them. Dr. Johnson, who was fully conscious of his 
 own superior powers, afterwards praised Principal Robertson for his 
 caution in this respect. He said to me, " Robertson, sir, was in the 
 right. Robertson is a man of eminence, and the head of a college at 
 Edinburgh. He had a character to maintain, and'did well not to risk 
 its being lessened." 
 
 SATURDAY, OCTOBER 30. 
 
 "We set out towards Ayrshire. I sent 'Joseph on to Loudaun, with 
 a message, that if the earl was at home, Dr. Johnson and I would 
 have the honour to dine with him. Joseph met us on the road, and 
 reported that the earl "jumped for joy," and said, " I shall be very 
 happy to see them." We were received with a most pleasing courtesy 
 by his lordship, and by the countess his mother, who, in hr ninety- 
 fifth year, had all her faculties quite unimpaired. This was a very 
 
 * The letter was addressed to Mr. W. Drummond, and will be found in Boswelbs 
 Life of Johnson, under date 1766. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 297 
 
 cheering sight to Dr. Johnson, who had an extraordinary desire for 
 long life. Her ladyship was sensible and well-informed, and had 
 seen a great deal of the world. Her lord had held several high offices, 
 and she was sister to the great Earl of Stair. 
 
 I cannot here refrain from paying a just tribute to the character 
 of John, Earl of Loudoun, who did more service to the county of Ayr 
 in general, as well as to individuals in it, than any man we have ever 
 had. It is painful to think that he met with much ingratitude from 
 persons both in high and low rank; but such was his temper, such 
 his knowledge of " base mankind,"* that, as if he had expected no 
 other return, his mind was never soured, and he retained his good- 
 humour and benevolence to the last. The tenderness of his heart was 
 proved in 1745-6, when he had an important command in the High- 
 lands, and behaved with a generous humanity to the unfortunate. I 
 cannot figure a more honest politician ; for, though his interest in our 
 county was great, and generally successful, he not only did not de- 
 ceive by fallacious promises, but was anxious that people should not 
 deceive themselves by too sanguine expectations. His kind and duti- 
 ful attention to his mother was unremitted. At his house was true 
 hospitality a plain but a plentiful table ; and every guest, being left 
 at perfect freedom, felt himself quite easy and happy. While I live, I 
 shall honour the memory of this amiable man. 
 
 At night, we advanced a few miles farther, to the house of Mr. 
 Campbell of Treesbank, who was married to one of my wife's sisters, 
 and were entertained very agreeably by a worthy couple. 
 
 SUNDAY, OCTOBER 31. 
 
 We reposed here in tranquillity. Dr. Johnson was pleased to find 
 a numerous and excellent collection of books, which had mostly be- 
 longed to the Reverend Mr. John Campbell, brother of our host. I 
 was desirous to have procured for my fellow-traveller, to-day, the 
 company of Sir John Cuninghame, of Caprington, whose castle was 
 but two miles from us. He was a very distinguished scholar, was long 
 abroad, and during part of the time lived much with the learned Cun- 
 inghame, the opponent of Bentley as a critic upon Horace. He wrote 
 Latin with great elegance, and, what is very remarkable, read Homer 
 and Ariosto through every year. I wrote to him to request he would 
 come to us ; but unfortunately he was prevented by indisposition. 
 
 MONDAY, NOVEMBER 1. 
 
 Though Dr. Johnson was lazy, and averse to move, I insisted that 
 he should go with me, and pay a visit to the Countess of Eglintouue, 
 
 * " The unwilling gratitude of base mankind." Pope. l
 
 298 JOURNAL OF A TOUK 
 
 mother of the late and present earl. I assured him, he would find 
 himself amply recompensed for the trouble ; and he yielded to my 
 solicitations, though with some unwillingness. We were well mounted, 
 and had not many miles to ride. He talked of the attention that is 
 necessary in order to distribute our charity judiciously. " If thought- 
 lessly done, we may neglect the most deserving objects; and, as every 
 man has but a certain proportion to give, if it is lavished upon those 
 who first present themselves, there may be nothing left for such as 
 have a better claim. A man should first relieve those who are nearly 
 connected with him, by whatever tie; and then, if he has anything 
 to spare, may extend his bounty to a wider circle. 
 
 As we passed very near the castle of Dundonald, which was one 
 of the many residences of the kings of Scotland, and in which Robert 
 the Second lived and died, Dr. Johnson wished to survey it particu- 
 larly. It stands on a beautiful rising ground, which is seen at a great 
 distance on several quarters, and from whence there is an extensive 
 prospect of the rich district of Cuninghame, the western sea, the Isle 
 of Arran, and a part of the northern coast of Ireland. It has long 
 been unroofed ; and, though of considerable size, we could not, by any 
 power of imagination, figure it as having been a suitable habitation 
 for majesty. Dr. Johnson, to irritate my old Scottish enthusiasm, was 
 very jocular on the homely accommodation of " King Bob" and roared 
 and laughed till the ruins echoed. 
 
 Lady Eglintoune, though she was now in her eighty-fifth year, 
 and had lived in the retirement of the country for almost half a cen- 
 tury, was still a very agreeable woman. She was of the noble house 
 of Kennedy, and had all the elevation which the consciousness of such 
 birth inspires. Her figure was majestic, her manners high-bred, her 
 reading extensive, and her conversation elegant. She had been the 
 admiration of the gay circles of life, and the patroness of poets. Dr. 
 Johnson was delighted with his reception here. Her principles in 
 church and state were congenial with his. She knew all his merit, 
 and had heard much of him from her son, Earl Alexander, who loved 
 to cultivate the acquaintance of men of talents in every department. 
 
 All who knew his lordship, will allow that his understanding and 
 accomplishments were of no ordinary rate. From the gay habits 
 which he had early acquired, he spent too much of his time with men, 
 and in pursuits far beneath such a mind as his. He afterwards be- 
 came sensible of it, and turned his thoughts to objects of importance; 
 but was cut off in the prime of his life. I cannot speak, but with 
 emotions of the most affectionate regret, of one, in whose company 
 many of my early days were passed, and to whose kindness I was 
 much indebted.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 899 
 
 Often must J have occasion to upbraid myself, that, soon after 
 our return to the main-land, I allowed indolence to prevail over me 
 so much, as to shrink from the labour of continuing my Journal with 
 the same minuteness as before ; sheltering myself in the thought that 
 we had done with the Hebrides, and not considering that Dr. John- 
 son's Memorabilia were likely to be more valuable when we were 
 restored to a more polished society. Much has thus been irrecoverably 
 lost. 
 
 In the course of our conversation this day, it came out that Lady 
 Eglintoune was married the year before Dr. Johnson was born, upon 
 which she graciously said to him that she might have been his 
 mother, and that she now adopted him ; and, when we were going 
 away, she embraced him, saying, " My dear son, farewell ! " My 
 friend was much pleased with this day's entertainment, and owned 
 that I had done well to force him out.* 
 
 TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 2. 
 
 We were now in a country not only " of saddles and bridles," but 
 of post-chaises ; and, having ordered one from Kihnarnock, we got to 
 Auchinleck before dinner. 
 
 My father was not quite a year and a half older than Dr. Johnson ; 
 but his conscientious discharge of his laborious duty as a judge in 
 Scotland, where the law proceedings are almost all in writing a 
 severe complaint which ended in his death and the loss of my 
 mother, a woman of almost unexampled piety and goodness, had, 
 before this time, in some degree affected his spirits, and rendered 
 him less disposed to exert his faculties ; for he had originally a very 
 strong mind and cheerful temper. He assured me, he never had felt 
 one moment of what is called low spirits, or uneasiness, without a 
 real cause. He had a great many good stories, which he told uncom- 
 monly well, and he was remarkable for " humour, incolumi gravitate," 
 as Lord Monboddo used to characterise it. His age, his office, and 
 his character, had long given him an acknowledged claim to great 
 
 * Lady Eglintoune was the daughter of Sir Archibald Kennedy of Culzean. She 
 lived seven years after the date of the above visit, dying in 1780 at the great age of 
 ninety-one. Her charms were commemorated by Allan Ramsay, Hamilton of Ban- 
 gour, and other lesser poets. She was the most celebrated beauty of that period. 
 Even at eighty-four Johnson said she had " little reason to accuse time of depredations 
 on her beauty." Her fine complexion was a source of mystery and envy. " As her 
 secret may be of service to modern beauties," says Mr. Chambers, " I shall, in kind- 
 ness to the sex, divulge it: she never used paint, but washed her face periodically 
 with sow's milk!" ("Traditions of Edinburgh.") Her son, Earl Alexander, the early 
 patron of Boswell, was, as is well known, shot by Mucgo Campbell, whose gun he 
 attempted to wrest from him under the impression that Campbell waa a poacher. 
 This unhappy occurrence took place in 1769. ED.
 
 300 JOrRNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 attention, in whatever company he was ; and he could ill brook any 
 diminution of it. He was as sanguine a Whig and Presbyterian as 
 Dr. Johnson was a Tory and Church of England man ; and as he had 
 not much leisure to be informed of Dr. Johnson's great merits by 
 reading his works, he had a partial and unfavourable notion of him, 
 founded on his supposed political tenets, which were so discordant to 
 his own, that, instead of speaking of him with that respect to which 
 he was entitled, he used to call him " a Jacobite fellow" Knowing 
 all this, I should not have ventured to bring them together, had not 
 my father, out of kindness to me, desired me to invite Dr. Johnson to 
 his house. 
 
 I was very anxious that all should be well, and begged of my 
 friend to avoid three topics, as to which they differed very widely 
 Whiggism, Presbyterianism, and Sir John Pringle. He said, cour- 
 teously, " I shall certainly not talk on subjects which I am told are 
 disagreeable to a gentleman under whose roof I am; especially, I 
 shall not do so to your father." 
 
 Our first day went off very smoothly. It rained, and we could 
 not get out ; but my father showed Dr. Johnson his library, which, 
 in curious editions of the Greek and Roman classics, is, I suppose, 
 not excelled by any private collection in Great Britain. My father 
 had studied at Leyden, and been very intimate with* the Gronovii and 
 other learned men there. He was a sound scholar, and, in particular, 
 had collated manuscripts and different editions of " Anacreon," and 
 others of the Greek lyric poets, with great care ; so that my friend 
 and he had much matter for conversation, without touching on the 
 fatal topics of difference. 
 
 Dr. Johnson found here Baxter's " Anacreon," which he told me 
 he had long Inquired for in vain, and began to suspect there was no 
 such book Baxter was the keen antagonist of Barnes. His life is 
 in the " Biographia Britannica." My father has written many notes 
 on this book, and Dr. Johnson and I talked of having it reprinted. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 3. 
 
 It rained all day, and gave Dr. Johnson an impression of that in- 
 commodiousness of climate in the west, of which he has taken notice 
 in his " Journey;" but, being well accommodated, and furnished with 
 variety of books, he was not dissatisfied. 
 
 Some gentlemen of the neighbourhood came to visit my father; 
 but there was little conversation. One of them asked Dr. Johnson 
 how he liked the Highlands. The question seemed to irritate him, 
 for he answered, " How, sir, can you ask me what obliges me to 
 speak unfavourably of a country where I have been hospitably enter-
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 301 
 
 tained ? Who can like the Highlands ? I like the inhabitants very 
 well." The gentleman asked no more questions.* 
 
 Let me now make up for the present neglect by again gleaning 
 from the past. At Lord Monboddo's, after the conversation upon the 
 decrease of learning in England, his lordship mentioned " Hermes," 
 by Mr. Harris of Salisbury, as the work of a living author, for whom 
 he had a great respect. Dr. Johnson said nothing at the time, but, 
 when we were in our post-chaise, he told me he thought Harris " a 
 coxcomb." This he said of him, not as a man, but as an author ; and 
 I give his opinions of men and books faithfully, whether they agree 
 with my own or not. I do admit, that there always appeared to me 
 something of affectation in Mr. Harris's manner of writing some- 
 thing of a habit of clothing plain thoughts in analytic and categorical 
 formality; but all his writings are imbued with learning, and all 
 breathe that philanthropy and amiable disposition which distinguished 
 him as a man.f 
 
 At another time, during our Tour, he drew the character of a 
 rapacious Highland chief with the strength of Theophrastus or la 
 Bruyere, concluding with these words : " Sir, he has no more the 
 soul of a chief, than an attorney who has twenty houses in a street 
 and considers how much he can make by them." 
 
 He this day, when we were by ourselves, observed, how common 
 it was for people to talk from books to retail the sentiments of others 
 and not their own ; in short, to converse without any originality of 
 thinking. He was pleased to say, " You and I do not talk from 
 books." 
 
 THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 4. 
 
 I was glad to have at length a very fine day, on which I could 
 show Dr. Johnson the Place of my family, which he has honoured 
 with so much attention in his " Journey." He is, however, mistaken 
 
 * " It is said that being asked how he liked his entertainment in the Highlands, he 
 answered, " The sauce to everything was the benevolence of the inhabitants. I love 
 the people better than the country." (" Scots Magazine," November, 1773.) ED. 
 
 t This gentleman, though devoted to the study of grammar and dialectics, was not 
 so absorbed in it as to be without a sense of pleasantry, or to be offended at his 
 favourite topics being treated lightly. I one day met him in the street, as I was 
 hastening to the House of Lords, and told him I was sorry I could not stop, being 
 rather too late to attend an appeal of the Duke f Hamilton against Douglas. " I 
 thought," said he, " thoir contest had been over long ago." I answered, " The contest 
 concerning Douglas's filiation was over long ago ; but the contest now is, who shall 
 have the estate." Then, assuming the air of " an ancient sage philosopher," I pro. 
 ceecled thus : " Were I to predicate concerning him, I should say, the contest formerly 
 was. What is he ? The contest now is, What has he ?" " Right," replied Mr. Harris, 
 smiling; " you have done with quality, and have got into quantity." BOSWELL.
 
 308 JOURNAL OP A TOUR 
 
 in thinking that the Celtic name, Auchinleck, has no relation to the 
 natural appearance of it. I believe every Celtic name of a place \vill 
 be found very descriptive. Auchinleck does not signify a stony field-, 
 as he has said, but & field offiag stones ; and this place has a number 
 of rocks, which abound in strata of that kind. The " sullen dignity 
 of the old castle," as he has forcibly expressed it, delighted him ex- 
 ceedingly. On one side of the rock on which its ruins stand, runs the 
 river Lugar, which is here of considerable breadth, and is bordered 
 by other high rocks, shaded with wood. On the other side runs a 
 brook, skirted in the same manner, but on a smaller scale. I cannot 
 figure a more romantic scene. 
 
 I felt myself elated here, and expatiated to my illustrious Mentor 
 on the antiquity and honourable alliances of my family, and on the 
 merits of its founder, Thomas Boswell, who was highly favoured by 
 his sovereign, James IV. of Scotland, and fell with him at the battle 
 of Flodden-field ; and in the glow of what, I am sensible, will, in a 
 commercial age, be considered as genealogical enthusiasm, did not 
 omit to mention what I was sure my friend would not think lightly 
 of my relation to the royal personage, whose liberality, on his 
 accession to the throne, had given him comfort and independence. 
 I have, in a former page, acknowledged my pride of ancient blood, 
 in which I was encouraged by Dr. Johnson.* My readers, therefore, 
 will not be surprised at my having indulged it on this occasion. 
 
 Not far from the old castle is a spot of consecrated earth, on 
 which may be traced the foundations of an ancient chapel, dedicated 
 to St. Vincent, and where in old times "was the place of graves" for 
 the family. It grieves me to think that the remains of sanctity 
 
 The " ancient blood" of our amthor would have boiled with indignation could he 
 have foreseen that his grandson was to set aside the deed of entail attaching the 
 family estate of Auchinleck to heirs male. The correspondence between Johnson and 
 Boswell on this subject will be found in the "Life of Johnson," under date of 1776. 
 The deed was drawn up by Lord Auchinleck, signed, tested, and placed in publica cut- 
 todia, where it remained undisturbed from the year 1777 down to the summer of 1851. 
 On examination, it was found that the deed was invalid. By the law of Scotland, con- 
 firmed by numerous decisions in the Scottish and English Courts, when a word of any 
 importance in a deed of entail is written on an erasure, without being authenticated 
 in the testing or prohibiting clause, the effect is fatal to the object of the deed, by 
 rendering it improbative. The Auchinleck deed was in this position. In the clause 
 prohibiting the right of sale, the word redeemable had at first been written instead of 
 irredeemable. An erasure was made, and the five letters " irred" were written on this 
 erasure, and no notice of the circumstance was contained in the testing clause. This 
 waa held by the Scottish Judges to be a fatal objection ; and Sir James Boswell, the 
 proprietor, will be entitled to sell the estate or to make a new disposition of it in order 
 to provide for his children, who are all daughters. Thus vanishes the succession of 
 heirs male. The blunder of a copying-clerk has annulled the deed, so anxiously con- 
 cocted, that was to gratify family pride, and carry down to distant generations the name 
 of Boswell of Auchinleck ! ED,
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 30J 
 
 here, which were considerable, were dragged away, and employed 
 in building a part of the house of Auchinleck, of the middle age ; 
 which was the family residence, till my father erected that " elegant 
 modern mansion," of which Dr. Johnson speaks so handsomely. Per- 
 haps this chapel may one day be restored. 
 
 Dr. Johnson was pleased when 1 showed him some venerable old 
 trees, under the shade of which my ancestors had walked. He ex- 
 horted me to plant assiduously, as my father had done to a great 
 extent. 
 
 As I wandered with my reverend friend in the groves of Auchin- 
 leck, I told him, that if I survived him, it was my intention to erect 
 a monument to him here, among scenes which, in my mind, were all 
 classical ; for in my youth I had appropriated to them many of the 
 descriptions of the Roman poets. He could not bear to have death 
 presented to him in any shape, for his constitutional melancholy made 
 the king of terrors more frightful. He turned off the subject, saying, 
 " Sir, I hope to see your grandchildren ! " 
 
 This forenoon he observed some cattle without horns, of which he 
 has taken notice in his " Journey," and seems undecided whether 
 they be of a particular race. His doubts appear to have had no 
 foundation ; for my respectable neighbour, Mr. Fairlie, who, with all 
 his attention to agriculture, finds time both for the classics and his 
 friends, assures me they are a distinct species, and that, when any of 
 their calves have horns, a mixture of breed can be traced. In con- 
 firmation of his opinion, he pointed out to me the following passage in 
 Tacitus : " Ne armentis quidem suus honor, aut gloria frontis ;" (" De 
 Mor. Germ." 5.) which he wondered had escaped Dr. Johnson. 
 
 On the front of the house of Auchinleck is this inscription : 
 
 " Quod petis, hie est ; 
 Est Ulubris ; animus si te non deficit sequus."* 
 
 It is characteristic of the founder ; but the animus cequus is, alas ! not 
 inheritable, nor the subject of devise. He always talked to me as if 
 it were in a man's own power to attain it ; but Dr. Johnson told me 
 that he owned to him, when they were alone, his persuasion that it 
 was in a great measure constitutional, or the effect of causes which do 
 not depend on ourselves ; and that Horace boasts too much when he 
 says, " JEquum mi animum ipse parabo" 
 
 * " Anxious through seas and lands to search for rest, 
 Is but laborious idleness at best ; 
 In desert Ulvbra the bliss you'll find, 
 If you preierve a firm and equal mind." FRANCIS'S HOKACI.
 
 304 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 5. 
 
 The reverend Mr. Dun, our parish minister, who had dined with 
 us yesterday, with some other company, insisted that Dr. Johnson 
 and I should dine with him to-day. This gave me an opportunity to 
 show my friend the road to the church, made by my father at a great 
 expence, for above three miles, on his own estate, through a range of 
 well-enclosed farms, with a row of trees on each side of it. He called 
 it the Via sacra, and was very fond of it. Dr. Johnson, though he 
 held notions far distant from those of the Presbyterian clergy, yet 
 could associate on good terms with them. He indeed occasionally 
 attacked them. One of them discovered a narrowness of information 
 concerning the dignitaries of the Church of England, among whom 
 may be found men of the greatest learning, virtue, and piety, and of 
 a truly apostolic character. He talked before Dr. Johnson of fat 
 bishops and drowsy deans ; and, in short, seemed to believe the 
 illiberal and profane scoffings of professed satirists or vulgar railers. 
 Dr. Johnson was so highly offended, that he said to him, " Sir, you 
 know no more of our church than a Hottentot." I was sorry that he 
 brought this upon himself. 
 
 SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 6. 
 
 I cannot be certain, whether it was on this day, or a former, that 
 Dr. Johnson and my father came in collision. If I recollect right, the 
 contest began while my father was showing him his collection of 
 medals ; and Oliver Cromwell's coin unfortunately introduced Charlea 
 the First and Toryism. They became exceedingly warm and violent, 
 and I was very much distressed by being present at such an alterca- 
 tion between two men, both of whom I reverenced ; yet I durst not 
 interfere. It would certainly be very unbecoming in me to exhibit 
 my honoured father and my respected friend as intellectual gladiators, 
 for the entertainment of the public ; and therefore I suppress what 
 would, I dare say, make an interesting scene in this dramatic sketch, 
 this account of the transit of Johnson over the Caledonian hemis- 
 phere. 
 
 Yet I think I may, without impropriety, mention one circum- 
 stance, as an instance of my father's address. Dr. Johnson challenged 
 him, as he did us all at Talisker, to point out any theological works 
 of merit written by Presbyterian ministers in Scotland. My father, 
 whose studies did not lie much in that way, owned to me afterwards, 
 that he was somewhat at a loss how to answer, but that luckily he 
 recollected having read in catalogues the title of " Durham on the 
 Galatians;" upon which he boldly said, "Pray, sir, have you read
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 305 
 
 Mr. Durham's excellent Commentary on the Galatians ?" " No, sir," 
 said Dr. Johnson. By this lucky thought my father kept him at bay, 
 and for some time enjoyed his triumph ; but his antagonist soon made 
 a retort, which I forbear to mention. 
 
 In the course of their altercation, Whiggism and Presbyterianism, 
 Toryism and Episcopacy, were terribly buffetted. My worthy here- 
 ditary friend, Sir John Pringle, never having been mentioned, happily 
 escaped without a bruise.* 
 
 My father's opinion of Dr. Johnson may be conjectured from the 
 name he afterwards gave him, which was URSA MAJOR. But it is not 
 true, as has been reported, that it was in consequence of my saying that 
 he was a constellation of genius and literature. It was a sly abrupt 
 expression to one of his brethren on the bench of the Court of Session, 
 in which Dr. Johnson was then standing ; but it was not said in his 
 hearing. 
 
 * Sir Walter Scott contributed to Mr. Croker, for that gentleman's edition of Bos- 
 wall, some traditionary notices of this quarrel. " It ended," he eays, " in Johnson 'a 
 pressing upon the old judge the question, what good Cromwell, of whom he had said 
 something derogatory, had ever done to his country ; when, after being much tor- 
 tured, Lord Auchinleck at last spoke out : " Ood, doctor, he gart kings ken they had 
 a lith in their neck" " He taught kings they had a joint in their neck." We doubt 
 this anecdote, which seems merely an echo of a saying by Qnin, the actor, related by 
 Davies: " On a thirtieth of January, Quin said every king in Europe would rise with 
 a crick in his neck." The following is more characteristic : " There's nae hope for 
 Jamie, mon," Lord Auchinleck said to a friend," Jamie is gaen clean gyte. What 
 do you thiuk, mon ? He's done wi' Paoli he's off wi' the land-louping scoundrel of a 
 Corsican ; and whose tail do you think he has pinned himself to now, mon ?" Here 
 the old judge summoned up a sneer of sovereign contempt. " A dominie, mon an 
 auld dominie; he keeped a schule, and cau'd it an academy." (Croker s Boswell.) 
 Among the topics to be avoided between the old laird and his visitor, Boswell might 
 have included Ossian ; for Lord Auchinleck seems to have been at least a partial 
 believer in the authenticity of the Celtic Homer. He writes to Dr. Blair, 2nd 
 October, 1764, with an account of what he considered an intrinsic proof of antiquity . 
 " When (in Ossian) a hero finds death approaching, he calls to prepare his deer's 
 horn ; a passage which I did not understand for a good time after Fingal was pub- 
 lished, but came then to have it explained accidentally. You must know that in 
 Badenoch, near the church of Alves, on the highway-side, are a number of tumuli, no- 
 body had ever taken notice of these as artificial till Macpherson of Benchar, a very 
 sensible man, under an apprehension of their being artificial, caused to cut up two of 
 them, and found human bones in them, and at right angles with them a red-deer's 
 horn above them. These burials plainly have been before Christianity, for the 
 corpse lay in the direction of north and south, not in that of east and west; and as 
 Fingsl was published before any of these tumuli were opened (which you will get 
 attested by Benchar and the people he employed in the works), this seems to make 
 strong for the antiquity." (Highland Society's Report, 1805.) Johnson would hav 
 treated this proof with ineffable contempt; but, fortunately, among the guestionet 
 vtxattc at Auchinleck, that of Ossian does not appear to have been broached. Lord 
 Auchinleck was elevated to the bench in 1756, and died in 17*2. He had a taste for the 
 olden literature of the country, and the Auchinleck Library is famous for its collection 
 of rare and valuable works. ED.
 
 335 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 7. 
 
 My father and I went to public worship in our parish church, in 
 which I regretted that Dr. Johnson would not join us ; for, though 
 we have there no form of prayer, nor magnificent solemnity, yet, as 
 GOD is worshipped in spirit and in truth, and the same doctrines 
 preached as in the Church of England, my friend would certainly 
 have shown more liberality had he attended. I doubt not, however, 
 but he employed his time in private to very good purpose. His uni- 
 form and fervent piety was manifested on many occasions during our 
 Tour, which I have not mentioned. His reason for not joining in 
 Presbyterian worship has been recorded in a former page. 
 
 MONDAY, NOVEMBER 8. 
 
 Notwithstanding the altercation that had passed, my father, who 
 had the dignified courtesy of an old baron, was very civil to Dr. John- 
 son, and politely attended him to the post-chaise, which was to convey 
 us to Edinburgh. 
 
 Thus they parted. They are now in another, and a higher, state 
 of existence ; and as they were both worthy Christian men, I trust 
 they have met in happiness. But I must observe, in justice to my 
 friend's political principles, and my own, that they have met in a 
 place where there is no room for Whiggism. 
 
 We came at night to a good inn at Hamilton. I recollect no more. 
 
 TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 9. 
 
 I wished to have shown Dr. Johnson the Duke of Hamilton's 
 house, commonly called the Palace of Hamilton, which is close by the 
 town.* It is an object which, having been pointed out to me as a 
 splendid edifice from my earliest years, in travelling between Auchin- 
 leck and Edinburgh, has still great grandeur in my imagination. My 
 friend consented to stop, and view the outside of it, but could not be 
 persuaded to go into it. 
 
 "We arrived this night at Edinburgh, after an absence of eighty- 
 three days. For five weeks together of the tempestuous season, there 
 had been no account received of us. I cannot express how happy I 
 was on finding myself again at home. 
 
 Hamilton Palace has since been greatly extended and improved. The additions 
 were begun in 1822, and continued for several years at an enormous cost. The picture 
 gallery, library, and principal apartments are on the most magnificent scale, and the 
 structure altogether is one of the most gorgeous in the kingdom. The pictures are 
 numerous and highly valuable, and there is a rich collection of cabinets and works of 
 vertu. ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 307 
 
 WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 10. 
 
 Old Mr. Drummond, the bookseller, came to breakfast. Dr. John- 
 son and he had not met for ten years. There was respect on his side, 
 and kindness on Dr. Johnson's.* Soon afterwards, Lord Elibank came 
 in, and was much pleased at seeing Dr. Johnson in Scotland. His 
 lordship said, " Hardly anything seemed to him more improbable." 
 Dr. Johnson had a very high opinion of him. Speaking of him to 
 me, he characterised him thus: " Lord Elibank has read a great deal. 
 It is true, I can find in books all that he has read ; but he has a great 
 deal of what is in books, proved by the test of real life." Indeed, 
 there have been few men whose conversation discovered more know- 
 ledge enlivened by fancy. He published several small pieces of dis- 
 tinguished merit, and has left some in manuscript in particular, an 
 account of the expedition against Carthagena, in which he served as 
 au officer in the army. His writings deserve to be collected. He was 
 the early patron of Dr. Robertson, the historian, and Mr.- Home, the 
 tragic poet ; who, when they were ministers of country parishes, lived 
 near his seat. He told me, " I saw these lads had talents, and they 
 were much with me." I hope they will pay a grateful tribute to his 
 memory, f 
 
 The morning was chiefly taken up by Dr. Johnson's giving him 
 an account of our tour. The subject of difference in political princi- 
 ples was introduced. JOHNSON: "It is much increased by opposition. 
 There was a violent Whig, with whom I used to contend with great 
 eagerness. After his death I felt my Toryism much abated." I 
 suppose he meant Mr. Walmsley, of Lichfield, whose character he 
 has drawn so well in his Life of Edmund Smith. 
 
 Mr. Nairne came in, and he and I accompanied Dr. Johnson to 
 Edinburgh Castle, which he owned was " a great place." But I 
 must mention, as a striking instance of that spirit of contradiction to 
 which he had a strong propensity, when Lord Elibank was some 
 days after talking of it with the natural elation of a Scotchman, or 
 of any man who is proud of a stately fortress in his own country, 
 
 * This old friend of Johnson's died December 21st, 1774. He is styled in the 
 newspapers of the day, " William Drummond, Esq., of Callendar, bookseller in Edin- 
 burgh." ED. 
 
 t Lord Elibank seems to have been the most assiduous of the Edinburgh literati 
 and public men in conciliating the favour of Johnson. He was also the most success- 
 ful in his efforts ; and we cannot forbear regretting that he did not live to read the 
 result in the complimentary pages of Boswell. His lordship died August 3rd, 1778, 
 aged seventy-six. He was a man of wit, learning, and varied talents ; had studied law 
 and served in the army, and was a first-rate conversationalist. It has since been 
 ascertained that Elibank was in correspondence with the family of the Pretender, but 
 he escaped detection, and afterwards kept his Jacobitism in prudent abeyance. ED. 
 
 u 2
 
 308 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 Dr. Johnson affected to despise it, observing that, " it would make a 
 good, prison in England." 
 
 Lest it should be supposed that I have suppressed one of his sallies 
 against my country, it may not be improper here to correct a mis- 
 taken account that has been circulated, as to his conversation this 
 day. It has been said, that being desired to attend to the noble 
 prospect from the Castle-hill, he replied, " Sir, the noblest prospect 
 that a Scotchman ever sees, is the high road that leads him to 
 London." This lively sarcasm was thrown out at a tavern in London, 
 in my presence, many years before. 
 
 We had with us to-day at dinner, at my house, the Lady Dowager 
 Colvill, and Lady Anne Erskine, sisters of the Earl of Kelly ; the 
 Honourable Archibald Erskine, who has now succeeded to that title ; 
 Lord Elibank ; the Reverend Dr. Blair ; Mr. Tytler, the acute vindi- 
 cator of Mary Queen of Scots, and some other friends. * 
 
 Fin gal being talked of, Dr. Johnson, who used to boast that he 
 had, from the first, resisted both Ossian and the Giants of Patagonia, 
 averred his positive disbelief of its authenticity. Lord Elibank said, 
 " I am sure it is not Macpherson's. Mr. Johnson, I keep company a 
 great deal with you; it is known I do. I may borrow from you 
 better things than I can say myself, and give them as my own ; but, 
 if I should, every body will know whose they are." The Doctor was 
 not softened by this compliment. He denied merit to Fingal, sup- 
 posing it to be the production of a man who has had the advantages 
 that the present age affords ; and said, " nothing is more easy than 
 to write enough in that style if once you begin." f One gentleman 
 in company expressing his opinion, " that Fingal was certainly 
 genuine, for that he had heard a great part of it repeated in the 
 original," Dr. Johnson indignantly asked him whether he under- 
 stood the original ; to which an answer being given in the negative, 
 "Why then," said Dr. Johnson, "we see to what this testimony 
 comes : thus it is." 
 
 I mention this as a remarkable proof how liable the mind of man 
 is to credulity, when not guarded by such strict examination as that 
 which Dr. Johnson habitually practised. The talents and integrity 
 
 * Mr. Tytler was an excellent Scottish antiquary, and did much t illustrate the 
 history, poetry, and music of kis native country. He died in 1792, aged eighty-five. His 
 son inherited his taste and talents, and was a Scottish Judge under the title of Lord 
 Woodhouselee. He died in 1813, aged sixty-six. Lord Woodhouselee had a son, who 
 augmented the literary honours of the family the late Patrick Fraser Tytler, Esq , 
 author of the " History of Scotland." ED. 
 
 t I desire not to he understood as agreeisg entirely with the opinions of Dr. John- 
 son, which I relate without any remark. The many imitations, however, of " Fingal" 
 that have been published confirm this observation in a considerable degree. BOSWKLL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 309 
 
 of the gentleman who made the remark are unquestionable ; yet, had 
 not Dr. Johnson made him advert to the consideration, that he who 
 does not understand a language, cannot know that something which 
 is recited to him is in that language, he might have believed, and 
 reported to this hour, that he had " heard a great part of Fingal 
 repeated in the original." 
 
 For the satisfaction of those on the north of the Tweed, who may 
 think Dr. Johnson's account of Caledonian credulity and inaccuracy 
 too strong, it is but fair to add, that he admitted the same kind of 
 ready belief might be found in his own country. " He would under- 
 take," he said, " to write an epic poem on the story of Robin Hood, 
 and half England, to whom the names and places he should mention 
 in it are familiar, would believe and declare they had heard it from 
 their earliest years." 
 
 One of his objections to the authenticity of " Fingal," during the 
 conversation at Ulinish, is omitted in my Journal, but I perfectly 
 recollect it. " Why is not the original deposited in some public 
 library, instead of exhibiting attestations of its existence ? Suppose 
 there were a question in a court of justice, whether a man be dead or 
 alive : You aver he is alive, and you bring fifty witnesses to swear it : 
 I answer, ' Why do you not produce the man ?'" This is an argument 
 founded upon one of the first principles of the law of evidence, which 
 Gilbert would have held to be irrefragable. 
 
 I do not think it incumbent on me to give any precise decided 
 opinion upon this question, as to which I believe more than some 
 and less than others. The subject appears now to have become very 
 uninteresting to the public. That " Fingal " is not, from beginning to 
 end, a translation from the Gaelic, but that some passages have been 
 supplied by the editor to connect the whole, I have heard admitted 
 by very warm advocates for its authenticity. If this be the case, why 
 are not these distinctly ascertained ? Antiquaries, and admirers of 
 the work, may complain, that they are in a situation similar to that 
 of the unhappy gentleman whose wife informed him, on her death- 
 bed, that one of their reputed children was not his ; and, when he 
 eagerly begged her to declare which of them it was, she answered, 
 " That you shall never know ;" and expired, leaving him in irreme- 
 diable doubt as to them all. 
 
 I beg leave now to say something upon second sight, of which I 
 have related two instances, as they impressed my mind at the time. 
 I own, I returned from the Hebrides with a considerable degree of 
 faith in the many stories of that kind which I heard with a too easy 
 acquiescence without any close examination of the evidence; but, 
 since that time, my belief in those stories has been much weakened by
 
 310 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 reflecting on the careless inaccuracy of narrative in common matters, 
 from which we may certainly conclude that there may be the same 
 in what is more extraordinary. It is but just, however, to add, that 
 the belief in second sight is not peculiar to the Highlands and Isles. 
 
 Some years after our tour, a cause was tried in the Court of 
 Session, where the principal fact to be ascertained was, whether a 
 ship-master, who used to frequent the Western Highlands and Isles, 
 was drowfied in one particular year or in the year after. A great 
 number of witnesses from those parts were examined on each side, 
 and swore directly contrary to each other upon this simple question. 
 One of them, a very respectable chieftain, who told me a story of 
 second sight which I have not mentioned, bnt which I too implicitly 
 believed, had in this case, previous to this public examination, not 
 only said, but attested under his hand, that he had seen the ship- 
 master in the year subsequent to that in which the court was finally 
 satisfied he was drowned. When interrogated with the strictness of 
 judicial inquiry, and under the awe of an oath, he recollected himself 
 better, and retracted what he had formerly asserted, apologising for 
 his inaccuracy by telling the judges, " A man will say what he will 
 not swear" By many he was much censured, and it was maintained 
 that every gentleman would be as attentive to truth without the 
 sanction of an oath as with it. Dr. Johnson, though he himself was 
 distinguished at all times by a scrupulous adherence to truth, contro- 
 verted this proposition ; and as a proof that this was not, though it 
 ought to be, the case, urged fhe very different decisions of elections 
 under Mr. Grenville's Act from those formerly made. " Gentlemen 
 will not pronounce upon oath what they would have said and voted 
 in the house, without that sanction." 
 
 However difficult it may be for men who believe in preternatural 
 communications, in modern times, to satisfy those who are of a diffe- 
 rent opinion, they may easily refute the doctrine of their opponents, 
 who impute a belief in second sight to superstition. To entertain a 
 visionary notion that one sees a distant or future event may be called 
 superstition, but the correspondence of the fact or event with such an 
 impression on the fancy, though certainly very wonderful, if proved, 
 has no more connection with superstition than magnetism or electricity. 
 
 After dinner, various topics were discussed ; but I recollect only 
 one particular. Dr. Johnson compared the different talents of Garrick 
 and Foote as companions, and gave Garrick greatly the preference for 
 elegance, though he allowed Foote extraordinary powers of entertain- 
 ment. He said, " Garrick is restrained by some principle, but Foote 
 has the advantage of an unlimited range. Garrick has some delicacy 
 of feeling ; it is possible to put him out ; you may get the better of
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 311 
 
 him ; but Foote is the most incompressible fellow that I ever knew : 
 when you have driven him into a corner, and think you are sure of 
 him, he runs through between your legs, or jumps over your head, 
 and makes his escape." 
 
 Dr. Erskine and Mr. Robert Walker, two very respectable 
 ministers of Edinburgh, supped with us, as did the Ileverend 
 ])r. Webster.* The conversation turned on the Moravian missions, 
 and on the Methodists. Dr. Johnson observed in general, that mis- 
 sionaries were too sanguine in their accounts of their success among 
 savages, and that much of what they tell is not to be believed. He 
 owned that the Methodists had done good had spread religious im- 
 pressions among the vulgar part of mankind ; but, he said, they had 
 great bitterness against other Christians, and that he never could get 
 a Methodist to explain in what he excelled others; that it always 
 ended in the indispensable necessity of hearing one of their preachers. 
 
 THURSDAY, NOVEMBER II. 
 
 Principal Robertson came to us as we sat at breakfast. He 
 advanced to Dr. Johnson, repeating a line of Virgil, which I forget. 
 I suppose, either 
 
 "Post varios casus, per tot discrimina rerum,"f 
 or, 
 
 " multum ille et terris jactatus, et alto."* 
 
 Everybody had accosted us with some studied compliment on our 
 return. Dr. Johnson said, "I am really ashamed of the congratula- 
 tions which we receive. We are addressed as if we had made a voyage 
 to Nova Zembla, and suffered five persecutions in Japan." And he 
 afterwards remarked, that, " to see a man come up with a formal air 
 and a Latin line, when we had no fatigue and no danger, was pro- 
 voking." I told him he was not sensible of the danger, having lain 
 under cover in the boat during the storm ; he was like the chicken, 
 that hides its head under its wing and then thinks itself safe. 
 
 * The two most eminent literary divines in Edinburgh, Robertson and Blair, held 
 collegiate charges, and had for colleagues men directly opposed to them in views of 
 Church polity and strict Calvinistic doctrine. Dr. John Erskine (born 1721, died 1803) 
 was the colleague of Dr. Robertson in the Old Oreyfriars. Dr. Robert Walker (born 
 1716, died 1783) was the colleague of Dr. Blair in the High Church. Both were able 
 excellent men, and more popular as preachers with the ordinary class of church goers 
 than their illustrious associates. It was remarked, however, that though the two 
 evangelical divines excelled in what Micah Balwhidder, in Gait's novel, called " kirk- 
 filling eloquence," their literary colleagues, from their hearers being chiefly of the 
 higher classes, were more successful in drawing money to the collections made at the 
 church doors. In" Guy Mannering" will be found sketches of Erekine and Walker. ED. 
 t " Through various hazards and events we move." 
 t " Long labours both by sea and land he bore." DBIDEN.
 
 312 JOURNAL OF A TOUK 
 
 Lord Elibank came to us, as did Sir William Forbes. The rash 
 attempt in 1 745 being mentioned, I observed, that it would make a 
 fine piece of history. Dr. Johnson said it would. Lord Elibank 
 doubted whether any man of this age could give it impartially. 
 JOHNSON : " A man, by talking with those of different sides, who were 
 actors in it, and putting down all that he hears, may in time collect 
 the materials of a good narrative. You are to consider, all history 
 was at first oral. I suppose Voltaire was fifty years in collecting his 
 " Louis XIV." which he did in the way that I am proposing. ROBERT- 
 SON : " He did so. He lived much with all the great people who 
 were concerned in that reign, and heard them talk of everything; 
 and then either took Mr. Boswell's way, of writing down what he 
 heard, or, which is as good, preserved it in his memory ; for he has a 
 wonderful memory." With the leave, however, of this elegant his- 
 torian, no man's memory can preserve facts or sayings with such 
 fidelity as may be done by writing them down when they are recent. 
 Dr. Robertson said, " it was now full time to make such a collection 
 as Dr. Johnson suggested ; for many of the people who were then in 
 arms, were dropping off; and both Whigs and Jacobites were now 
 come to talk with moderation." Lord Elibank said to him, " Mr. 
 Robertson, the first thing that gave me a high opinion of you, was 
 your saying in the Select Society,* while parties ran high, soon after 
 the year 1 745, that you did not think worse of a man's moral character 
 for his having been in rebellion. This was venturing to utter a liberal 
 sentiment, while both sides had a detestation of each other." 
 
 Dr. Johnson observed, that being in rebellion from a notion of 
 another's right, was not connected with depravity ; and that we had 
 this proof of it, that all mankind applauded the pardoning of rebels ; 
 which they would not do in the case of robbers and murderers. He 
 said, with a smile, that " he wondered that the phrase of unnatural 
 rebellion should be so much used, for that all rebellion was natural 
 to man." 
 
 As I kept no Journal of any thing that passed after this morning, 
 I shall, from memory, group together this and the other days, till that 
 
 A society for debate in Edinburgh, consisting of the most eminent men. Bos- 
 WBLL. 
 
 [EsUblishpd in 1754 by Allan Ramsay, the painter, son of the Scottish poet. An 
 account of the " Select Society," drawn up by Dr. Carlyle, is given in the Appendix to 
 Dagald Stewart's " Life of Dr. Robertson," the historian, who was one of its most con- 
 spicuous members. The society became so fashionable that in 1759 it numbered 130 
 members, including all the literati of Edinburgh and its neighbourhood, and many of 
 the (.'entry, who, though few of them took any share in the debates, thought themselves 
 o well entertained and instructed that they gave punctual attendance. ED. J
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 313 
 
 on which Dr. Johnson departed for London. They were in all nine 
 days; on which he dined at Lady Colvill's, Lord Hailes's, Sir Adolphua 
 Oughton's, Sir Alexander Dick's, Principal llobertson's, Mr. Mac- 
 laurin's, and thrice at Lord Elibank's seat in the country, where we 
 also passed two nights. He supped at the Honourable Alexander 
 Gordon's, now one of our judges, by the title of Lord llockville; at 
 Mr. Nairne's, now also one of our judges, by the title of Lord Dun- 
 sinnan ; at Dr. Blair's, and Mr. Ty tier's; and at my house thrice, one 
 evening with a numerous company, chiefly gentlemen of the law; 
 another with Mr. Menzies of Culdares, and Lord Monboddo, who. 
 disengaged himself on purpose to meet him; and the evening on 
 which we returued from Lord Elibank's, he supped with my wife and 
 me by ourselves. 
 
 He breakfasted at Dr. Webster's, at old Mr. Drummond's, and at 
 Dr. Blacklock's ; and spent one forenoon at my uncle Dr. Boswell's, 
 who shewed him his curious museum ; and, as he was an elegant 
 scholar, and a physician bred in the school of Boerhaave, Dr. Johnson 
 was pleased with his company. 
 
 On the mornings when he breakfasted at my house, he had, from 
 ten o'clock till one or two, a constant levee of various persons, of 
 very different characters and descriptions. I could not attend him, 
 being obliged to be in the Court of Session ; but my wife was so good 
 as to devote the greater part of the morning to the endless task of, 
 pouring out tea for my friend and his visitors. 
 
 Such was the disposition of his time at Edinburgh. He said one 
 evening to me, in a fit of languor, " Sir, we have been harassed by 
 invitations." I acquiesced. " Ay, sir, he replied ; but how much 
 worse would it have been, if we had been neglected ?" 
 
 From what has been recorded in this Journal, it may well be sup- 
 posed that a variety of admirable conversation has been lost, by my 
 neglect to preserve it. I shall endeavour to recollect some of it, as 
 well as I can. At Lady Colvill's, to whom I am proud to introduce 
 any stranger of eminence, that he may see what dignity and grace is 
 to be found in Scotland, an officer observed, that he had heard Lord 
 Mansfield was not a great English lawyer. JOHNSON : " Why, sir, 
 supposing Lord Mansfield not to have the splendid talents which he 
 possesses, he must be a great English lawyer, from having been so 
 long at the bar, and having passed through so many of the great 
 offices of the law. Sir, you may as well maintain that a carrier, who 
 has driven a packhorse between Edinburgh and Berwick for thirty 
 years, does not know the road, as that Lord Mansfield does not know 
 the law of England." 
 
 At Mr. Nairne's, he drew the character of Richardson, the author
 
 3J4 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 of " Clarissa," with a strong yet delicate pencil. I lament much that I 
 have not preserved it : I only remember that he expressed a high 
 opinion of his talents and virtues ; but observed, that " his perpetual 
 study was to ward off petty inconveniences, and procure petty plea- 
 sures ; that his love of continual superiority was such, that he took 
 care to be always surrounded by women, who listened to him im- 
 plicitly, and did not venture to controvert his opinions ; and that his 
 desire of distinction was so great, that he used to give large vails 
 to the Speaker Onslow's servants, that they might treat him with 
 respect." 
 
 On the same evening, he would not allow that the private life of 
 a judge in England, was required to be so strictly decorous as I sup- 
 posed. " Why then, sir, (said I), according to your account, an 
 English judge may just live like a gentleman." JOHNSON : " Yes, 
 sir ; if he can." 
 
 At Mr. Tytler's, I happened to tell that one evening, a great many 
 years ago, when Dr. Hugh Blair and I were sitting together in the 
 pit of Drury-lane play-house, in a wild freak of youthful extra- 
 vagance, I entertained the audience prodigiously, by imitating the 
 lowing of a cow. A little while after I had told this story, I differed 
 from Dr. Johnson, I suppose too confidently, upon some point, which 
 I now forget. He did not spare me. "Nay, sir, (said he), if you 
 cannot talk better as a man, I'd have you bellow like a cow."* 
 
 At Dr. Webster's, he said, that he believed hardly any man died 
 without affectation. This remark appears to me to be well founded, 
 and will account for many of the celebrated death-bed sayings which 
 are recorded. 
 
 On one of the evenings at my house, when he told that Lord 
 Lovat boasted to an. English nobleman, that though he had not his 
 wealth, he had two thousand men whom he could at any time call 
 into the field, the Honourable Alexander Gordon observed, that those 
 two thousand men brought him to the block, f " True, sir," said Dr. 
 Johnson, " but you may just as well argue, concerning a man who 
 
 * As I have been scrupulously exact in relating anecdotes concerning ether per- 
 sons, I shall not withhold any part of this story, however ludicrous. I was so success- 
 ful in this boyisk frolic that the universal cry of the galleries was, " Encore the cow ! 
 encore the cow!" In the pride of my heart,. I attempted imitations of some other 
 animals, but with very inferior effect. My reverend friend, anxious for my fame, with 
 an air of the utmost gravity and earnestness addressed me thus : " My dear sir, I 
 would confine myself to the cow." Bos WELL. 
 
 + This was one of Lord Lovat's usual boasting declarations respecting his clan. 
 In 1724 Marshal Wade estimated the Frasera at 800. Mr. James Ferguson, the astro- 
 nomer, visited Lord Lovat at Castle Downie, his lordship's seat in Inverness-shire, 
 about 1740, and he says that 400 persons were kennelled in the lower apartments f the 
 tower-like structure, the floors being covered with straw. " Of those wretched
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 315 
 
 has fallen over a precipice to which he has walked too near, ' His 
 two legs brought him to that ; '-^is he not the better for having two 
 legs ? " 
 
 At Dr. Blair's I left him, in order to attend a consultation, during 
 which he and his amiable host were by themselves. I returned to 
 supper, at which were Principal Robertson, Mr. Nairne, and some 
 other gentlemen. Dr. Robertson and Dr. Blair, I remember, talked 
 well upon subordination and government ; and, as my friend and I 
 were walking home, he said to me, " Sir, these two doctors are good 
 men, and wise men." I begged of Dr. Blair to recollect what he 
 could of the long conversation that passed between Dr. Johnson 
 and him alone, this evening, and he obligingly wrote to me as 
 follows : 
 
 March 3, 1785. 
 
 DEAR SIR As so many years have intervened, since I chanced to have that con- 
 versation with Dr. Johnson in my house, to which you refer, I have forgotten most of 
 what then passed, but remember that I was both instructed and entertained by it. 
 Among other subjects, the discourse happened to turn on modern Latin poets, the Dr. 
 repressed a very favourable opinion of Buchanan, and instantly repeated, from begin- 
 ning to end, an ode of his, intituled ' Calendae Maiee' (the eleventh in his ' Miscel- 
 laneorum Liber'), beginning with these words, ' Salvete sacris deliciis sacrse,' with 
 which I had formerly been unacquainted ; but upon perusing it, the praise which he 
 bestowed upon it, as one of the happiest of Buchanan's poetical compositions, ap- 
 peared to me very just. He also repeated to me a Latin ode he had composed in one 
 of the western islands, from which he had lately returned. We had much discourse 
 concerning his excursion to those islands, with which he expressed himself as having 
 been highly pleased ; talked in a favourable manner of the hospitality of the inhabi- 
 tants; and particularly spoke much of his happiness in having you for his companion; 
 and said, that the longer he kiiew you, he loved and esteemed you the more. This 
 conversation passed in the interval between tea and supper, when we were by our- 
 selves. You, and the rest of the company who were with us at supper, have often 
 taken notice that he was uncommonly bland and gay that evening, and gave much 
 pleasure to all who were present. This is all that I can recollect distinctly of that 
 long conversation. Yours sincerely, 
 
 iiuuu BLAIR. 
 
 dependants he (Mr. Ferguson) ha* seen, in consequence of the then existing right of 
 heritable jurisdiction, three or four, and sometimes half-a-dozen, hung up by the heels 
 for hours, on the few trees round the mansion." (King's" Muuimenta Aiitiqua.' 1 ) In 
 1745 Lovat wrote to the Lord Advocate as follows : " My clan and I have been so 
 neglected these many years past, that I have not twelve stand of arms in my country, 
 though, I thank God, I could bring 1,200 god men to the field for tke King's service 
 if I had arms and other accoutrements for them." The Lord Advocate was too wise 
 to intrust arms with the wily old chief, who was then in treaty with the Jacobite 
 leaders. The Master of Lovat joined Prince Charles in January 1746 with 600 of hia 
 father's vassals. Of Simon Lord Lovat, who, as Sir Walter Scott remarks, united in 
 iniHi.it.iire the arts of a Machiavel with the tyranny of a Cassar Borgia, an interesting 
 life has been written (1847) by Mr. J. Hill Burton, Advocate. ED.
 
 316 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 At Lord Hailes's, we spent a most agreeable day ; but again I 
 must lament that I was so indolent as to let almost all that passed 
 evaporate into oblivion. Dr. Johnson observed there, that " it is 
 wonderful how ignorant many officers of the army are, considering 
 how much leisure they have for study, and the acquisition of know- 
 ledge." I hope he was mistaken ; for he maintained that many of 
 them were ignorant of things belonging immediately to their own 
 profession ; " for instance, many cannot tell how far a musket will 
 carry a bullet ; " in proof of which, I suppose, he mentioned some 
 particular person, for Lord Hailes, from whom I solicited what he 
 could recollect of that day, writes to me as follows : 
 
 " As to Dr. Johnson's observations about the ignorance of officers, 
 in the length that a musket will carry, my brother, Colonel Dalrymple, 
 was present, and he thought that the doctor was either mistaken, by 
 putting the question wrong, or that he had conversed on the subject 
 with some person out of service. 
 
 " Was it upon that occasion that he expressed no curiosity to see 
 the room at Dumfermline, where Charles I. was born ? ' I know 
 that he was born,' said he, ' no matter where.' Did he envy us the 
 birth-place of the king ? " 
 
 Near the end of his " Journey," Dr. Johnson has given liberal 
 praise to Mr. Braidwood's academy for the deaf and dumb. When 
 he visited it, a circumstance occurred which was truly characteristical 
 of our great lexicographer. " Pray," said he, " can they pronounce 
 any long words ? " Mr. Braidwood informed him they could. Upon 
 which Dr. Johnson wrote one of his sesquipedalia verba, which was 
 pronounced by the scholars, and he was satisfied. My readers may 
 perhaps wish to know what the word was; but I cannot gratify 
 their curiosity. Mr. Braidwood told me, it remained long in his 
 school, but had been lost before I made my inquiry. * 
 
 Dr. Johnson one day visited the Court of Session. He thought 
 the mode of pleading there too vehement, and too much addressed to 
 the passions of the judges. " This," said he, " is not the Areopagus." 
 
 At old Mr. Drummond's, Sir John Dalrymple quaintly said, the 
 two noblest animals in the world were a Scotch Highlander and an 
 English sailor. " Why, sir," said Dr. Johnson, " I shall say nothing 
 
 * One of the best critics of our age " does not wish to prevent the admirers of the 
 incorrect and nerveless style which generally prevailed for a century before Dr. John- 
 son's energetic writings were known, from enjoying the laugh that this story may 
 produce, in which he is very ready to join them." He, however, requests me to 
 observe that, " my friend very properly chose a long word on this occasion, not, it is 
 believed, from any predilection for polysyllables (though he certainly had a due 
 respect for them), but in order to put Mr. Braidwood's skill to the strictest test, and to 
 try the efficacy of his instruction by the most difficult exertion of the organs of his 
 pupils." BOSWKLL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 317 
 
 as to the Scotch Highlander ; but as to the English sailor, I cannot 
 agree with you." Sir John said, he was generous in giving away 
 his money. JOHNSON : " Sir, he throws away his money, without 
 thought, and without merit. I do not call a tree generous, that sheds 
 its fruit at every breeze." Sir John having affected to complain of 
 the attacks made upon his " Memoirs," Dr. Johnson said, " Nay, sir, 
 do not complain. It is advantageous to an author that his book 
 should be attacked as well as praised. Fame is a shuttlecock. If it 
 be struck only at one end of the room, it will soon fall to the ground. 
 To keep it up, it must be struck at both ends." Often have I reflected 
 on this since ; and, instead of being angry at many of those who 
 have written against me, have smiled to think that they were unin- 
 tentionally subservient to my fame, by using a battledoor to make 
 me virum volitare per ora. 
 
 At Sir Alexander Dick's, from that absence of mind to which 
 every man is at times subject, I told, in a blundering manner, Lady 
 Eglintoune's complimentary adoption of Dr. Johnson as her son ; for 
 I unfortunately stated that her ladyship adopted him as her son, in 
 consequence of her having been married the year after die was born. 
 Dr. Johnson instantly corrected me. " Sir, do n't you perceive that 
 you are defaming the countess ? For, supposing me to be her son, 
 and that she was not married till the year after my birth, I must have 
 been her natural son." A young lady of quality, who was present, 
 very handsomely said, " Might not the son have justified the fault ?" 
 My friend was much flattered by this compliment, which he never 
 forgot. When in more than ordinary spirits, and talking of his jour- 
 ney in Scotland, he has called to me, " Boswell, what was it that the 
 young lady of quality said of me at Sir Alexander Dick's ? " Nobody 
 will doubt that I was happy in repeating it. 
 
 My illustrious friend, being now desirous to be again in the great 
 theatre of life and animated exertion, took a place in the coach, which 
 was to set out for London on Monday the 22nd of November. Si* 
 John Dalrymple pressed him to come on the Saturday before, to his 
 house at Cranston, which being twelve miles from Edinburgh, upon 
 the middle road to Newcastle, (Dr. Johnson had come to Edinburgh 
 by Berwick, and along the naked coast,) it would make his journey 
 easier, as the coach would take him up at a more seasonable hour 
 than that at which it sets out. Sir John, I perceived, was ambitious 
 of having such a guest ; but, as I was well assured, that at this very 
 time he had joined with some of his prejudiced countrymen in railing 
 at Dr. Johnson, and had said, " He wondered how any gentleman of 
 Scotland could keep company with him," I thought he did not deserve 
 the honour ; yet, as it might be a convenience to Dr. Johnson, I con-
 
 318 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 trived that he should accept the invitation, and engaged to conduct 
 him. I resolved that, on our way to Sir John's, we should make a 
 little circuit by Roslin Castle and Hawthornden, and wished to set 
 out soon after breakfast ; but young Mr. Tytler came to show Dr. 
 Johnson some essays which he had written ; and my great friend, 
 who was exceedingly obliging when thus consulted, was detained so 
 long, that it was, I believe, one o'clock before we got into our post- 
 chaise. I found that we should be too late for dinner at Sir John 
 Dalrymple's, to which we were engaged ; but I would by no means 
 lose the pleasure of seeing my friend at Hawthornden, of seeing 
 Sam Johnson at the very spot where Ben Jonson visited the learned 
 and poetical Drummond.* 
 
 We surveyed Roslin Castle, the romantic scene around it, and the 
 beautiful Gothic chapel, and dined and drank tea at the inn ; after 
 which we proceeded to Hawthornden, and viewed the caves ; and I 
 all the while had Rare Sen in my mind, and was pleased to think 
 that this place was now visited by another celebrated wit of England. 
 
 By this time " the waning night was growing old," and we were 
 yet several miles from Sir John Dalrymple's. Dr. Johnson did not 
 seem much troubled at our having treated the baronet with so little 
 attention to politeness ; but when I talked of the grievous disappoint- 
 ment it must have been to him that we did not come to the feast that 
 he had prepared for us, (for he told us he had killed a seven-year old 
 sheep on purpose,) my friend got into a merry mood, and jocularly 
 aid, " I dare say, sir, he has been very sadly distressed : Nay, we do 
 not know but the consequence may have been fatal. Let me try to 
 describe his situation in his own historical style. I have as good a 
 right to make him think and talk, as he has to tell us how people 
 thought and talked a hundred years ago, of which he has no evidence. 
 All history, so far as it is not supported by contemporary evidence, is 
 romance. Stay now. Let us consider ! " He then (heartily laughing 
 all the while) proceeded in his imitation, I am sure to the following 
 
 * The visit so finely alluded to by Collins : 
 
 " Then will I dress once more the faded bower, 
 
 Where Jonson sat in Drummond's classic shade." 
 
 " Rare Ben" visited Scotland in the summer of 1618. He was then in his forty-fifth 
 year, and was gross and heavy in person ( ;< my mountain belly and my rocky face") yet 
 he performed the long journey on foot. He had written an account of his journey, a 
 poem, " with all the adventures," but the manuscript was destroyed, along with several 
 other papers, by aa accidental fire. This misfortune led the poet to pour out a 
 rhyming execration upon Vulcan, in which all his readers will cordially join. Drum- 
 mond states that Jonson had an intention of writing " a fisher or pastoral play, and set 
 the stage of it in the Lomond lake." Also, " He is to write his foot-pilgrimage hither, 
 and to cull it a Discovery. In a poem he calleth Edinburgh 
 
 ' Th heart of Scotland, Britain's other eye.'" ED.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 319 
 
 effect, though now, at the distance of almost twelve years, I cannot 
 pretend to recollect all the precise words : 
 
 " Dinner being ready, he wondered that his guests were not yet 
 come. His wonder was soon succeeded by impatience. He walked 
 about the room in anxious agitation ; sometimes he looked at his 
 watch, sometimes he looked out of the window with an eager gaze of 
 expectation, and revolved in his mind the various accidents of human 
 life. His family beheld him with mute concern. ' Surely (said he, 
 with a sigh), they will not fail me.' The mind of man can bear a 
 certain pressure ; but there is a point when it can bear no more. A 
 rope was in his view, and he died a Roman death." * 
 
 It was very late before we reached the seat of Sir John Dalrymple, 
 who, certainly with some reason, was not in very good humour. Our 
 conversation was not brilliant. We supped, and went to bed in an- 
 cient rooms, which would have better suited the climate of Italy in 
 summer, than that of Scotland in the month of November, f 
 
 I recollect no conversation of the next day, worth preserving, 
 except one saying of Dr. Johnson, which will be a valuable text for 
 many decent old dawagers, and other good company, in various circles 
 to descant upon. He said, " I am sorry I have not learnt to play at 
 cards. It is very useful in life : it generates kindness, and consoli- 
 dates society." He certainly could not mean deep play. 
 
 My friend and I thought we should be more comfortable at the 
 inn at Blackshields, two miles farther on. We therefore went thither 
 in the evening, and he was very entertaining ; but I have preserved 
 nothing but the pleasing remembrance, and his verses on George the 
 Second and Gibber, and his epitaph on Parnell, which he was then 
 so good as to dictate to me. We breakfasted together next morning, 
 and then the coach came and took him up. He had, as one of his 
 companions in it as far as Newcastle, the worthy and ingenious Dr. 
 Hope, botanical professor at Edinburgh. Both Dr. Johnson and he 
 
 * " Essex was at that time confined to the same chamber of the Tower from which 
 his father, Lord Capel, had been led to death, and in which his wife's grandfather bad 
 indicted a voluntary death upon himself. When he saw his friend carried to what he 
 reckoned certain fate, their common enemies enjoying the spectacle, and reflected 
 thai it was he who had farced Lord Howard upon the confidence of Rusael, he 
 retired, and, by a, Roman death, put an end to his misery." (Dolrjniple'a " Memoirs 
 of Great Britain and Ireland," vol. i. p. 36.) BOSWELL. 
 
 t Johnson, when at Sir James Colquhoun'e, claimed for himself the character of a 
 " very polite man ;" and Boswell added his testimony te the same effect. Sir John 
 Dalrymple would not have countersigned the statement. The conduct of the tra- 
 vellers towards the learned baronet was certainly uncivil and contemptuous. There 
 WAR also great indelicacy, to say the least of it, in Boswell's publishing the above 
 during Sir John's life-time. The baronet became a Barou ef Exchequer in Scotland, 
 ami died in 1H10, aged eighty-four years. ED.
 
 320 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 used to speak of their good fortune in thus accidentally meeting ; for 
 they had much instructive conversation, which is always a most valu- 
 able enjoyment, and, when found where it is not expected, is peculiarly 
 relished. 
 
 I have now completed my account of our Tour to the Hebrides. 
 I have brought Dr. Johnson down to Scotland, and seen him into the 
 coach which in a few hours carried him back into England. He said 
 to me often, that the time he spent in this Tour was the pleasantest 
 part of his life, and asked me if I would lose the recollection of it for 
 five hundred pounds. I answered I would not ; and he applauded 
 my setting such a value on an accession of new images in my mind. 
 
 Had it not been for me, I am persuaded Dr. Johnson never would 
 have undertaken such a journey ; and I must be allowed to assume 
 some merit, from having been the cause that our language has been 
 enriched with such a book as that which he published on his return 
 a book which I never read but with the utmost admiration, as I had 
 such opportunities of knowing from what very meagre materials it 
 was composed. 
 
 But my praise may be supposed partial ; and therefore I shall 
 insert two testimonies, not liable to that objection, both written by 
 gentlemen of Scotland, to whose opinions I am confident the highest 
 respect will be paid Lord Hailes, and Mr. Dempster. 
 
 TO JAMES B03WEIX, ESQ. 
 
 "Newhailes, 6th Feb. 1775. 
 
 " SIR I have received much pleasure and much instruction from perusing " The 
 Journey " to the Hebrides. 
 
 " I admire the elegance and variety of description, and the lively picture of men and 
 manners. I always approve of the moral, often of the political reflections. I love the 
 benevolence of the author. 
 
 " They who search for faults may possibly find them in this, as well as in every 
 other work of literature. 
 
 " For example, the friends of the old family say that the aera of planting is placed too 
 late, at the Union of the two kingdoms. I am known to be no friend of the old 
 family, yet I would place the sera of planting at the Restoration, after the murder of 
 Charles I. had been expiated in the anarchy which succeeded it. 
 
 " Before the Restoration few trees were planted, unless by the monastic drones ; 
 their successors (and worthy patriots they were) the barons, first cut down the trees 
 and then sold the estates. The gentleman at St. Andrews, who said that there were 
 but two trees in Fife, ought to have added, that the elms of Balmerino were sold 
 within these twenty years to make pumps for the fire-engines. 
 
 " In J. Major de Geslis Scotorum, L. i. C. 2, last edition, there is a singular 
 passage: 
 
 " ' Davidi Cranstoneo conterraneo, dum de prima theologiae licenti^ foret, duo ei 
 consocii et familiares, et mei cum eo in artibus auditores, scilicet Jacobus Almain 
 Senonensis, et Petrus Brnxcellensis, Preedicatoris ordinis, in Sorbonse curia die Sor-
 
 TO TEIK HEBRIDES. Ml 
 
 bonico coramilitonibus suis publice objecerunt, quod pane avenaceo plebcii Scoti, 
 sicut a quodam religioso intellexerant, vescebantur, ut virum, quern cholerieutn 
 twverant, honestis salibus tentarent, qui hoc infieiari tanguam patriae dedecus 
 nisus est.'* 
 
 " Pray introduce our countryman Mr. Licentiate David Cranston, to the acquaint- 
 ance of Mr. Johnson. The syllogism seems to have been this : They who feed on 
 Oatmeal are barbarians ; but the Scots feed on oatmeal ; ergo. The licentiate denied 
 the minor. I am, sir, your most obedient servant, 
 
 " DAY. DALRYMPLE." 
 
 TO JAMES BOSWELL, ESQ., EDINBURGH. 
 
 " Dunnichen, 16th February, 1775. 
 
 " MY DEAR BOSWELL, I cannot omit a moment to return you ray best thanks for 
 the entertainment you have furnished me, my family, and guests, by the perusal of Dr. 
 Johnson's ' Journey to the Western Islands' and now for my sentiments of it. I 
 was well entertained. His descriptions are accurate and vivid. He carried me on the 
 Tour along with him. I am pleased with the justice he has done to your humour and 
 vivacity. ' The noise of the wind being all its own," is a ban mot, that it would have 
 been a pity to have omitted, and a robbery not to have ascribed to its author. 
 
 "There is nothing in the book, from beginning to end, that a Scotchman need to 
 take amiss. What he says of the country is true, and his observations on the people 
 are what must naturally occur to a sensible, observing, and reflecting inhabitant of a 
 convenient metropolis, where a man on thirty pounds a-year may be better accommo- 
 dated with all the little wants of life than Col or Sir Allan. He reasons candidly 
 about the second-sight ; but I wish he had inquired more before he ventured to say he 
 even doubted of the possibility of such an unusual and useless deviation from all the 
 known laws of nature. The notion of the second-sight 1 consider as a remnant of 
 superstitious ignorance and credulity, which a philosopher will set down as such till the 
 contrary is clearly proved, and then it will be classed among the other certain though 
 unaccountable parts of our nature, like dreams, and I do not know what. 
 
 " In regard to the language, it has the merit of being all his own. Many words of 
 foreign extraction are used, where, I believe, common ones would do as well, especially 
 on familiar occasions. Yet I believe lie could not express himself so forcibly in any 
 other style. I am charmed with his researches concerning the Erse language, and the 
 antiquity of their manuscripts. I am quite convinced, and I shall rank Ossian, and his 
 ' Fingals ' and ' Oscars ' amongst the nursery-tales, not the true history of our country 
 in all time to come. 
 
 " Upon the whole, the book cannot displease, for it has no pretensions. The author 
 neither says he is a geographer, nor an antiquarian, nor very learned in the History of 
 Scotland, nor a naturalist nor a fossilist. The manners of the people and the face of 
 the country are all he attempts to describe, or seems to have thought of. Much were 
 
 * It appears from Major's) statement that David Cranston, Licentiate in Theology 
 was objected to joealarly by two of his intimate friends, James Almain, of Sens, and 
 Peter of Brussels, in the senate-house of the Sorbonne, on the grouad that the ple- 
 beian Htutn/td on oat bread ; and that they did this as a joke on Cranston, whem they 
 knew to be a choleric man, and who attempted to deny the statement as a disgrace to 
 his country. The quotation would have amused Johnson ; but the best retort on his 
 definition of oats being the food of men in Scotland and of horses in England is that 
 of Lord Elibank, given by Sir Walter Scott in one of his notes to Mr. Croker: " Yes," 
 said he, " and where will you ttud i/cA i/ie and stuh homes!" ED. 
 
 V
 
 323 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 it to be wished that they who have travelled into more remote, and of course more 
 curious regions, had all possessed his good sense. Of the state of learning, his obser- 
 vations on Glasgow University show that he has formed a very sound judgment. He 
 understands our climate too, and he has accurately observed the changes, however slow 
 and imperceptible to us, which Scotland has undergone, in consequence of the blessings 
 of liberty and internal peace. I could have drawn ray pen through the story of the old 
 woman at St. Andrews, being the only silly thing in the book. He has taken the 
 opportunity of ingrafting into the work several good observations, which I dare say he 
 had made upon men and things before he set foot on Scotch ground, by which it is 
 considerably enriched.* A long journey, like a tall Maypole, though not very beau- 
 tiful in itself, yet is pretty enough, when ornamented with flowers and garlands : it 
 furnishes a sort of cloak-pins for hanging the furniture of your mind upon ; and who- 
 ever sets out upon a journey, without furnishing his mind previously with much study 
 and useful knowledge, erects a May-pole in December, and puts up very useless 
 cloak-pins. 
 
 " I hope the book will induce many of his countrymen to make the same jaunt, and 
 help to intermix the more liberal part of them still more with us, and perhaps abate 
 somewhat of that virulent antipathy which many of them entertain against the Scotch 
 who certainly would never have formed those combinations which he takes notice of, 
 more than their ancestors, had they not been necessary for their mutual safety, at least 
 for their success, in a country where they are treated as foreigners. They would find us 
 not deficient, at least in point of hospitality, and they would be ashamed ever after 
 to abuse us in the mass. 
 
 " So much for the Tour. I have now, for the first time in my life, passed a winter 
 in the country ; and never did three months roll on with more swiftness and satisfac- 
 tion. I used ' not only to wonder at, but pity, those whose lot condemned them to 
 winter anywhere but in either of the capitals. But every place has its charms to a 
 cheerful mind. I am busy planting and taking measures for opening the summer 
 campaign in farming ; aud I find I have an excellent resource, when revolutions ia 
 politics perhaps, and revolutions in the sun for certain, will make it decent for me to 
 retreat behind the ranks of the more forward in life. 
 
 " I am glad to hear the last was a very busy week with you. I see you as counsel 
 in some causes which must have opened a charming field for your humorous veins. 
 As it is more uncommon, so I verily believe it is more useful than the more serious 
 exercise of reason ; and, to a man who is to appear in public, more eclat is to be 
 gained, sometimes more money too, by a ban mot, than a learned speech. It is the 
 fund of natural humour which Lord North possesses, that makes him so much the 
 favourite of the House, and so able, because so amiable, a leader of a party. 
 
 "I have now finished my Tour of Seven Pages. In what remains, I beg leave to 
 offer my compliments, and those of ma tres cherefemme, to you and Mrs. Boswell. 
 Pray unbend the busy brow, and frolic a little in a letter to My dear Boswell, your 
 affectionate friend, 
 
 "GEORGE DEMPSTER."! 
 
 * Mr. Orme, one of the ablest historians of this age, is of the same opinion. He said 
 to me, " There are in that bosk theughts which, by long revolution in the great mind 
 of Johnson, hare been formed and pelished, like pebbles rolled in the ocean !" 
 BOSWELL. 
 
 t Every reader will, I am sure, join' with mo in warm admiration of the truly 
 patriotic writer of this letter. I know not which most to applaud that good sense and
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 323 
 
 I shall also present the public with a correspondence with the 
 Laird of Itasay, concerning a passage in the " Journey to the Western 
 Islands," which shows Dr. Johnson in a very amiable light : 
 
 TO JAMES BOSWEI.L, ESQ. 
 
 " Masay, April 10th, 1775. 
 
 "DEAR SIR, I take this occasion of returning you ray most hearty thanks for the 
 civilities shown to my daughter by you and Mrs. Boswell. Yet, though she has informed 
 me that I am under this obligation, I should very probably have deferred troubling 
 you with making my acknowledgments at present, if I had not seen Dr. Johnson's 
 " Journey to the Western Isles," in which he has been pleased to make a very friendly 
 mention of my family, for which I am surely obliged to him, as being more than an 
 equivalent for the reception you and he met with. Yet there is one paragraph I 
 should have been glad he had omitted, which I am sure was owing to misinformation ; 
 that is, that I had acknowledged Macleod to be my chief, though my ancestors disputed 
 (lie pre-eminence for a long tract of time. 
 
 "I never had occasion to enter seriously on this argument with the present laird or 
 his grandfather, nor could I have any temptation to such a renunciation from either of 
 them. I acknowledge the benefit of being chief of a clan is in our days of very little 
 significancy, and to trace out the progress of this honour to the founder of a family, of 
 any standing, would perhaps be a matter of some difficulty. 
 
 " The true state of the present case is this : the Macleod family consists of two 
 different branches ; the Macleods of Lewis, of which I am descended, and the Macleods 
 of Harris. And though the former have lost a very extensive estate by forfeiture in 
 King James the Sixth's time, there are still several respectable families of it existing, 
 who would justly blame me for such an unmeaning cession, when they all acknowledge 
 me head of that family ; which though in fact it be but an ideal point of honour, is not 
 hitherto so far disregarded in our country, but it would determine some of my friends 
 to look on me as a much smaller man than either they or myself judge me at present 
 to be. I will therefore ask it as a favour of you to acquaint the Doctor with the diffi- 
 culty he has brought me to. In travelling among rival clans such a silly tale as this 
 might easily be whispered into the ear of a passing stranger; but as it has no founda- 
 tion in fact, I hope the Doctor will be so good as to take his own way in undeceiving 
 the public, I principally mean my friends and connexions, who will be first angry at 
 me, and next sorry to find such an instance of my littleness recorded in a book which 
 has a very fair chance of being much read. I expect you will let me know what he 
 will write you in return, and we here beg to make offer to you and Mrs. Boswell of our 
 most respectful compliments. I am, dear sir, your most obedient humble servant, 
 
 "JOHN MACLEOD."* 
 
 liberality of mind whick could see and admit the defects of his native country, to 
 which no man is a more zealous friend, or that candour which induced him to give 
 just praiso to the minister whom he honestly and strenuously opposed. BOSWKLL. 
 
 [Mr. Dempster opposed Lord North in tho contest with the American colonies. He 
 sat in Parliament 0.9 representative of the Fife burghs for twenty-eight years, and was 
 indefatigable in promoting every scheme for the extension and improvement of the 
 Scottish manufactures and fisheries.' In his old age he took to agriculture, and 
 displayed the same enthusiastic aud manly spirit in his new pursuit that he had 
 evinced on public and political questions. He died February 13, 1818, aged eighty, 
 four. ED.] 
 
 * Mr. Skene, in his " Highlanders of Scotland," disputes the Norwegian descent of 
 the Clan Leod, although the family acquired large estates in Skye by marriage with
 
 324 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 TO THE LATRD OF RASAY. 
 
 "London, May 8, 1775. 
 
 " DEAR SIR, The day before yesterday I had the honour to receive your letter, 
 I immediately communicated it to Dr. Johnson. He said he loved your spirit, 
 and was exceedingly sorry that he had heen the cause of the smallest uneasiness to 
 you. There is not a more candid man in the world than he is, when properly ad- 
 dressed, as you will see from his letter to you, which I now inclose. He has allowed 
 me to take a copy of it, and lie says you may read it to your clan, or publish it if you 
 please. Be assured, sir, that I shall take care of what he has intrusted to me, which 
 is to have an acknowledgment of his error inserted in the Edinburgh newspapers. 
 You will, I dare say, be fully satisfied with Dr. Johnson's behaviour. He is desirous 
 to know that you are ; and therefore, when you have read his acknowledgment in the 
 papers, I beg you may write to me ; and if you choose it, I am persuaded a letter 
 from you to the Doctor also will be taken kind. I shall be at Edinburgh the week 
 after next. 
 
 " Any civilities which my wife and I had in our power to show to your daughter, 
 Miss Macleod, were due to her own merit, and were well repaid by her agreeable com- 
 pany. But I am sure I should be a very unworthy man if I did not wish to show a 
 grateful sense of the hospitable and genteel manner in which you were pleased to treat 
 me. Be assured, my dear sir, that I shall never forget your goodness, and the happy 
 hours which I spent in llasay. 
 
 " You and Dr. Macleod were both so obliging as to promise me an account in 
 writing of all the particulars which each of you remember concerning the transac- 
 tions of 1745-6. Pray do not forget this, and be as minute and full as you can ; put 
 down everything ; I have a great curiosity to know as much as I can, authentically. 
 
 " I beg you to present my best respects to Lady Rasay, my compliments to your 
 young family, and to Dr. Macleod ; and my hearty good wishes to Malcolm, with 
 whom I hope again to shake hands cordially. I have the honour to be, dear sir, your 
 obliged and faithful humble servant, 
 
 " JAMES BOSWELL." 
 
 Advertisement written by Dr. Johnson, and inserted by his desire in the 
 Edinburgh newspapers : referred to in the foregoing letter.* 
 
 " The author of the ' Journey to the Western Islands,' having related that the 
 Macleods of Rasay acknowledge the chieftainship or superiority of the Macleods of 
 Sky, finds that he has been misinformed or mistaken. He means in a future edition 
 to correct his error, and wishes to be told of more, if more have been discovered." 
 
 the daughter of Macraild or Macrailt, one of the Norwegian nobles of the Isles. The 
 original possession of the Maeleods was Glenelg, of which district David II. granted a 
 charter to Malcolm, son of Tormod Macleod, the reddendo being to keep a galley with 
 thirty-six oars for the use of his Majesty. Mr. Skene thinks that Maoleod of Glenelg 
 (aad of Harris, &o.) was of old the proper chief of the entire clan, and that the mnr- 
 riage of a younger son of that family with the heiress of Assynt and Lewis gave rise to 
 the family of Macleods of Lewis, the oldest cadets of the clan, and represented by 
 Macleod of Rasay. Mr. Gregory, in his " History of the Western Islands," seems to 
 regard the Siol (or race of) Torqnil (Rasay) and the Siol Tormod (Glenelg, Harris, &c.) 
 as two distinct and powerful clans of equal rank, although descended from one common 
 ancestor. Their armorial hearings are different ; that of Lewis being a burning 
 mount, that of Harris a castle. See " Wilson's Voyage Round Scotland." Ed. 
 
 * The original MS. is now in nay possession. BOSWELL.
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 325 
 
 Dr. Johnson's letter was as follows : 
 
 TO THE LAIRD OF KASAY. 
 
 " DEAR SIR, Mr. Boswell has tins day shown me a letter, in which you complain 
 of a passage in the 'Journey to the Ilehrides.' My meaning is mistaken. I did not 
 intend to say that you had personally made any cession of the rights of yonr house, or 
 any acknowledgment of the superiority of Macleod of Dunvegan. I only designed to 
 express what I thought generally admitted that the house of Rasay allowed the 
 superiority of the house of Dunvegan. Even this I now find to be erroneous, and will 
 therefore omit or retract it in the next edition. 
 
 " Though what I said had been true, if it had been disagreeable to you I should 
 have wished it unsaid ; for it is not my business to adjust precedence. As it is mis- 
 taken, I find myself disposed to correct, both by my respect for you, and my reverence 
 for truth. 
 
 "As I know not when the book will be reprinted, I have desired Mr. Boswell to 
 anticipate the correction in the Edinburgh papers. This is all that can be done. 
 
 "I hope I may now venture to desire that my compliments may be made, and my 
 gratitude expressed, to Lady Rasay, Mr. Malcolm Macleod, Mr. Donald Macqueen, 
 and all the gentlemen and all the ladies whom I saw in the island of Rasay ; a place 
 which I remember with too much pleasure and too much kindness, not to be sorry that, 
 my ignorance or hasty persuasion should, for a single moment, have violated its tran- 
 quillity. 
 
 " I beg you all to forgive an undesigned and involuntary injury, and to consider me 
 as, sir, your most obliged, and most humble servant, 
 
 "London, May 6, 1775." "SAM. JOHNSON.* 
 
 It would be improper for me to boast of my own labours ; but I 
 cannot refrain from publishing such praise as I received from such a 
 man as Sir William Forbes, of Pitsligo, after the perusal of the ori- 
 ginal manuscript of my Journal. 
 
 TO JAMES BOSWELL, ESQ. 
 
 " Edinburgh, March 7, 1777. 
 
 "MY DEAR SIR, I ought to have thanked you sooner for your very obliging 
 letter, and for the singular confidence you are pleased to place in me, when you trust 
 me with such a curious and valuable deposit as the papers you have sent me.+ Be 
 assured I have a due sense of this favour, and shall faithfully and carefully return 
 them to yon. You may rely that I shall neither copy any part, nor permit the papers 
 to be seen. 
 
 "They contain a curious picture of society, and form a journal on the most 
 instructive plan that can possibly be thought of; for I am not sure that an ordinary 
 
 * Rasay was highly gratified, and afterwards visited and din ed with Dr. Johnson, at 
 his house in London. BOSWELL. [He died December 16, 1780,aged sixty-nine. En.] 
 
 + In justice both to Sir William Forbes and myself, it is proper to mention, that 
 the papers which were submitted to his perusal containod only an account of our 
 Tour from the time that Dr. Johnson and I set out from Edinburgh, and consequently 
 did not contain the eulogium on Sir William Forbes, which he never saw till this 
 book appeared in print; nor did he even know, when he wrote the above letter, tlmt 
 this Journal was to be published. BOSWKI.L.
 
 336 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 observer would become so well acquainted either with Dr. Johnson or with the 
 manners of the Hebrides, by a personal intercourse, as by a perusal of your journal. 
 I am very truly, dear sir, your most obedient and affectionate humble servant, 
 
 " WILLIAM FORBES." 
 
 When I consider how many of the persons mentioned in this Tour 
 are now gone to " that undiscovered country, from whose bourne no 
 traveller returns," I feel an impression at once awful and tender. 
 Mequiescant in pace ! 
 
 It may be objected by some persons, as it has been by one of my 
 friends, that he who has the power of thus exhibiting an exact tran- 
 script of conversations is not a desirable member of society. I 
 repeat the answer which I made to that friend : " Few, very few, 
 need be afraid that their sayings will be recorded. Can it be ima- 
 gined that I would take the trouble to gather what grows on every 
 hedge, because I have collected such fruits as the " Nonpareil" and 
 the " Bon Chretien ?" 
 
 On the other hand, how useful is such a faculty, if well exercised ! 
 To it we owe all those interesting apophthegms and memorabilia of 
 the ancients, which Plutarch, Xenophon, and Valerius Maximus have 
 transmitted to us. To it we owe all those instructive and entertaining 
 collections which the French have made under the title of Ana, affixed 
 to some celebrated name. To it we owe the " Table-Talk" of Selden, 
 the Conversation between Ben Jonson and Drummond of Hawthorn- 
 den, Spence's Anecdotes of Pope, and other valuable remains in our 
 own language. How delighted should we have been, if thus intro- 
 duced into the company of Shakspeare and of Dry den, of whom we 
 know scarcely anything but their admirable writings ! What plea- 
 sure would it have given us to have known their petty habits, their 
 characteristic manners, their modes of composition, and their genuine 
 opinion of preceding writers and of their contemporaries ! All these 
 are now irrecoverably lost. Considering how many of the strongest 
 and most brilliant effusions of exalted intellect must have perished, 
 how much is it to be regretted that all men of distinguished wisdom 
 and wit have not been attended by friends, of taste enough to relish, 
 and abilities enough to register their conversation : 
 
 Vixere fortes ante Agamemnona 
 Multi, sed omnes illacrymabiles 
 Urgentur, ignotique longa 
 Nocte, carent quia vate sacro.* 
 
 * " Before great Agamemnon reigned 
 
 Reigned kings as great as he and brave, 
 Whose huge ambition's now contained 
 In the small compass of a grave ;
 
 TO THE HEBRIDES. 337 
 
 They whose inferior exertions are recorded, as serving to explain 
 or illustrate the sayings of such men, may be proud of being thus 
 associated, and of their names being transmitted to posterity, by being 
 appended to an illustrious character. 
 
 Before I conclude, I think it proper to say, that I have suppressed* 
 
 In endless night they sleep unwept, unknown, 
 
 No bard had they to make all time their own." FRANCIS'S HORACE. 
 
 * Having found on a revision ef the first edition of this work, that, notwithstanding 
 my best care, a few observations had escaped me which arose from the instant im- 
 pression, the publication of which might perhaps he considered as passing the bounds 
 of a strict deeorum, I immediately ordered that they should be omitted in the subse- 
 quent editions. I was pleased to find that they did not amount ia the whole to u 
 page. If any ef the same kind are yet left, it is owing to inadverteace ulone, no man 
 being more unwilling to give pain to others than I am. A contemptible scribbler, of 
 whom I have learned no more than that, after having disgraced and deserted the 
 clerical character, he picks up in London a scanty livelihood by scurrilous lampoons 
 under a feigned name, has impudently and falsely asserted that the passages omitted 
 were defamatory, and that the omission was not voluntary but compulsory. The lost 
 insinuation I took the trouble publicly to disprove ; yet, like one of Pope's duncea, 
 he persevered in " the lie o'erthrown." As to the charge of defamation, there is an 
 obvious and certain mode of refuting it. Any person who thinks it worth while to 
 compare one edition with the other, will find that the passages omitted were not in 
 the least degree of that nature, but, exactly such as I have represented them in the 
 former part of this note, the hasty effusion of momentary ..feelings, which the delicacy 
 of politeness should have suppressed. BOSWELL. 
 
 [The scribbler with the feigned name was Dr. Wolcot, the well-known " Peter 
 Pindar," who, though bred to medicine, took orders and was a short time in the Church. 
 Peter, it must be confessed, did n honour to the clerical character his "lampoons'' 
 were better than his sermons or his life. In his satirical " Epistle to Boswell," Wol- 
 cot asserted, both in the text and notes, that Lord Macdonald sent a severe remon- 
 strance to Boswell, threatening him with personal chastisement for the manner in 
 which he had spoken of him in the Journal, in consequence of which certain passages 
 were omitted. What remains, however, is depreciatory enough. The bitterness with 
 which Boswell mentions Wolcot's witty and laughable satire shows that he had not 
 profited by Johnson's maxim that it is advantageous to an author that his book should 
 be attacked as well as praised. We give part of Peter's postscript, which must have 
 been galling to Boswell from its happy ridicule of his style and mental capacity : 
 
 " It will be adding greatly to the auecdotical treasury, as well as making Mr. Bos- 
 well happy, to communicate part of a dialogue that took place between Dr. Johnson 
 and the author of this congratulatory epistle, a few months before the doctor paid tho 
 great debt of nature. The doctor was very cheerful that day : had on a black coat and 
 waistcoat, a black plush pair of breeches, and black worsted stockings, a handsome 
 grey wig, a shirt, a muslin aeckcloth, a black pair f buttons in his shirt-sleeves, a pair 
 of shoes ornamented with the very identical little buckles that accompanied the 
 philosopher to the Hebrides ; his nails were very neatly pared, and his beard fresh 
 shaved with a razor fabricated by the ingenious Mr. Savigny. 
 
 " P. P : 1'ray, doctor, what is your opinion of Mr. Bos well's literary powers? 
 
 " JOHNSON : Sir, my opinion is, that whenever Bozzy expires, he will create no 
 vacuum in the region of literature. He seems strongly affected by the cacoethes scri- 
 bendi, wishes to be thought a rat-a avis and in truth so he is your knowledge in 
 ornithology, sir, will easily discover to what species of bird I allude. (Here the doctor 
 shook bis head and laughed.) 
 
 " P. P. : What think you, sir, of his account of Corsica of his character of Paoli ?
 
 338 JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 every thing which I thought could really hurt any one now living-. 
 Vanity and self-conceit indeed may sometimes suffer. With regard 
 to what is related, I consider it my duty to " extenuate nothing, nor 
 set down aught in malice ;" and with those lighter strokes of Dr. 
 Johnson's satire, proceeding from a warmth and quickness of imagi- 
 nation, not from any malevolence of heart, and which, on account of 
 their excellence, could not be omitted, I trust that they who are the 
 subject of them have good sense and good temper enough not to be 
 displeased. 
 
 I have only to add, that I shall ever reflect with great pleasure on 
 a tour, which has been the means of preserving so much of the en- 
 lightened and instructive conversation of one whose virtues will, I 
 hope, ever be an object of imitation, and whose powers of mind were 
 so extraordinary, that ages may revolve before such a man shall again 
 appear. 
 
 " JOHNSON : Sir, he hath made a mountain of a wart ; but Paoli hath virtues. 
 The account is a farrago of disgusting egotism and pompous inanity ! 
 
 " P. P. : I have heard it whispered, doctor, that, should you die before him, Mr. 
 B. means to write yeur life. 
 
 "JOHNSON : Sir, he cannot mean me so irreparable an injury. Which of us shall die 
 first is only known to the Great Disposer of events ; but were I sure that James Bos- 
 well would write my life, I do not know whether I would not anticipate the measure 
 by taking his. (Here he made three or four strides across the room, and returned to 
 his chair with violent emotion.)" ED.]
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 Injustice to the ingenious DK. BLACKLOCK, / publish the following 
 letter from him, relative to a passage in p. 29. 
 
 TO JAMES BOSWELL, ESQ. 
 
 "DEAR SIR, Having lately had the pleasure of reading your account of the 
 journey which you took with Dr. Samuel Johnson to the Western Isles, I take the 
 liberty of transmitting my ideas of the conversation which happened between the 
 doctor and myself concerning lexicography and poetry, which, as it is a little different 
 from the delineation exhibited in the former edition of your Journal, cannot, I hope, 
 be unacceptable ; particularly since I have been informed that a second edition of that 
 work is now in contemplation, if not in execution ; and I am still more strongly 
 tempted to encourage that hope from considering that, if every one concerned in the 
 conversations related were to send you what they can recollect of these colloquial 
 entertainments, many curious and interesting particulars might be recovered, which 
 the most assiduous attention could not observe, nor the, most tenacious memory retain. 
 A little reflection, sir, will convince you, that there is not an axiom in Euclid more 
 intuitive nor more evident than the doctor's assertion that poetry was of much easier 
 execution than lexicography. Any mind, therefore, endowed with common-sense, must 
 have been extremely absent from itself, if it discovered the least astonishment from 
 hearing that a poem might be written with much more facility than the same quantity 
 of a dictionary. 
 
 " The real cause of my surprise was what appeared to me much more paradoxical, 
 that he could write a sheet of dictionary with as much pleasure as a sheet of poetry. 
 He acknowledged, indeed, that the latter was much easier than the former. For in 
 the one case, books and a desk were requisite ; in the other you might compose when 
 lying in bed, or walking in the fields, &c. He did not, however, descend to explain, 
 nor to tliis moment can I comprehend, how the labours of a mere philologist, in the 
 most refined sense of that term, could give equal pleasure with the exercise of a mind 
 replete with elevated conceptions and pathetic ideas, while taste, fancy, and intellect 
 were deeply enamoured of nature, and in full exertion. You may likewise, perhaps, 
 lemember, that when I complained of the ground which scepticism in religion and 
 morals was continually gaining, it did not appear to be on my own account, as my 
 private opinions upon these important subjects had long been inflexibly determined. 
 What I then deplored, and still deplore, was the unhappy influence which that gloomy 
 hesitation had, not only upon particular characters, but even upon life in general ; as 
 being equally the bane of action in our present state, and of such consolations as we 
 might derive from the hopes of a future. 
 
 " I have the pleasure of remaining, with sincere esteem and respect, dear sir, your 
 most obedient humble servant, 
 
 " THOMAS BLACKLOCK. 
 
 "Edinburgh, Nov. 12, 1785." 
 
 W
 
 330 APPENDIX. 
 
 I am very happy to find that Dr. Blacklock's apparent uneasiness 
 on the subject of Scepticism was not on his own account (as I sup- 
 posed), but from a benevolent concern for the happiness of man- 
 kind. With respect, however, to the question concerning poetry, 
 and composing a dictionary, I am confident that my state of Dr. 
 Johnson's position is accurate. One may misconceive the motive by 
 which a person is induced to discuss a particular topic (as in the case 
 of Dr. Blacklock's speaking of Scepticism) ; but an assertion, like that 
 made by Dr. Johnson, cannot be easily mistaken. And indeed it 
 seems not very probable, that he who so pathetically laments the 
 drudgery to which the unhappy lexicographer is doomed, and is 
 known to have written his splendid imitation of Juvenal with asto- 
 nishing rapidity, should have had as much pleasure in writing a sheet 
 of a dictionary as a sheet of poetry. Nor can I concur with the in- 
 genious writer of the foregoing letter, in thinking it an axiom as 
 evident as any in Euclid, that " poetry is of easier execution than 
 lexicography." I have no doubt that Bailey, and the " mighty blun- 
 derbuss of law," Jacob, wrote ten pages of their respective Dic- 
 tionaries with more ease than they could have written five pages of 
 poetry. 
 
 If this book should again be reprinted, I shall, with the utmost 
 readiness correct any errors I may have committed, in stating con- 
 versations, provided it can be clearly shewn to me that I have been 
 inaccurate. But I am slow to believe (as I have elsewhere observed) 
 that any man's memory, at the distance of several years, can pre- 
 serve facts or sayings with such fidelity as may be done by writing 
 them down when they are recent : and I beg it may be remembered, 
 that it is not upon memory, but upon what was written at the time, that 
 the authenticity of my Journal rests. 
 
 No. II. 
 
 VEKSES, 
 WRITTEN BY SIR ALEXANDER (NOW LORD) MACDONALD ; ADDRESSED AND 
 
 PRESENTED TO DR. JOHNSON, AT ARMIDALE IX THE ISLE OF SET. 
 
 Viator o qui nostra per aequora 
 Visurus agros Skiaticos venis, 
 En te salutantes tributim 
 Undique conglomerantur oris. 
 
 Donaldiani qaotquot in insulis 
 Compescit arctis limitibus mare ; 
 Alitque jamdudnm, ac aleudos 
 1'iscibus indigenas fovebit.
 
 APPENDIX. 331 
 
 Ciere fluctus siste, Procelliger, 
 Nee tu laborans perge, precor, ratis, 
 Ne conjugem plangat marita, 
 Ne doleat soboles parentera. 
 
 Nee te vicissira poeniteat virum 
 Luxisse; vestro seiiuus ut astuant 
 In corde luctantes dolores, 
 Cum feriant inopina corpus. 
 
 Quidni ! peremptum clade tuentibus 
 Plus semper illo qui moritur pati 
 Datnr, doloris dum profundos 
 Pervia mens aperit recessus. 
 
 Valete luctus ; hinc lacryraabiles 
 Arcete visus : ibimus, ibimus 
 Superbienti qua theatre 
 Fingalise memorantur aulae. 
 
 Illustris hospes ! mox spatiabere 
 Qua raens ruinse ducta meatibns 
 Gaudebit explorare coetus, 
 
 Bnccina qua ceeinit triumphos ; 
 
 Audin ? resurgens spirat anhelitu 
 Dux usitato, suscitat eiScax 
 Poeta manes, ingruitque 
 Vi solitS. redivivus horror. 
 
 Absena quassans tela gravi maim 
 Sic ibat atrox Ossiani pater : 
 Quiescat urna, stet fidelis 
 Phersonius vigil ad favillam.
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 A few typographical errors have crept into the Notes. 
 
 In page 43, for " Ramillet," read Rathillet. 
 
 ,, 47, ,, "Beanly," ,, Beauly 
 
 113, "1759," 1795. 
 
 ,, 182, ,, "Duncarn," ,, Dunearn.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 The following is an index to BOSWELL'S LIFE OF JOHNSON, 4 vols. , 
 and BOSWELL'S JOURNAL OF A TOUR TO THE HEBRIDES, 1 vol. 
 National Illustrated Library. The "Tour to the Hebrides" is 
 designated as vol. v. 
 
 ABEECROMBIE, James, Philadelphia, 
 sends author two letters from Dr. 
 J. to American gentlemen, ii. 134. 
 Aberdeen, city of, visited by J. and 
 Boswell, v. 56 ; its former con- 
 dition, 57 ; its University system 
 similar to that at Oxford, 57; 
 freedom of city conferred on Dr. 
 J., 62. 
 
 Abington, Mrs., the actress, ii. 208, 
 210, 224. 
 
 Absenteeism, its effects discussed, iii. 
 119, 167. 
 
 Abstemiousness easier to Dr J. than 
 temperance, i. 272; v. 169. 
 
 Absurdities, use of delineating, iv. 19. 
 
 Abuse, difference between coarse and 
 refined, iv. 203. 
 
 Abyssinia, Lobo's voyage to, i. 35 ; 
 iii. 5. 
 
 Academy, Royal, Dr. J. made Pro- 
 fessor of Ancient Literature in, ii. 
 49 ; Delia Crusea Academy at 
 Florence send J. their "Vocabu- 
 lario," i. 168. 
 
 Accent, Scotch, may be overcome by 
 perseverance ; instance of Mallet, 
 ii. 105. 
 
 Accounts, remarks on keeping, iv. 126. 
 
 Acquaintances, desirableness of ex- 
 tending, i. 168; iv. 125; J.'s 
 early, i. 134. 
 
 Acting, observations on, iv. 1 67 ; 
 v. 90. 
 
 Active sports recommended to the 
 young by Lord Chesterfield, i. 10. 
 
 Adams, Rev. Dr., master of Pembroke 
 College, Oxford his account of 
 J.'s arrival at Oxford, i. 18 ; his 
 
 character of J. at college, i. 26 ; 
 conversation with J. on his Dic- 
 tionary, i. 99 ; his account of the 
 representation of "Irene," i. 106 ; 
 serious talk with J. on his last 
 visit to Oxford, iv. 255. 
 
 Addison, Joseph, his Notonda, i. Ill; 
 his style, i. 123 ; his literary cha- 
 racter, i. 246 ; found himself un- 
 fit for conversation, ii. 166 ; in 
 delicate humour superior to Swift, 
 v. 26; his "Remarks on Italy," 
 ii. 233 ; v. 246 ; corrects Budgell's 
 writings, iii. 28 ; conduct to Steele, 
 iv. 42, 69 ; readings in J.'s life 
 of, 43. 
 
 Adelphi Terrace, residences of Beau- 
 clerk and Garrick, iv. 74. 
 
 Adey, Miss, Lichfield, i. 4 ; iii. 275. 
 
 Admiration and judgment compared, 
 ii. 231. 
 
 "Adventurer, The," J.'s contribu- 
 tions to, i. 113. 
 
 " Adventures of a Guinea," v. 228 
 
 "Adversaria, or Hints for Essays," 
 J.'s, i.JLll. 
 
 Adversaries not to be treated with 
 respect, v. 13. 
 
 Adultery, heinousness of, ii 42 ; v. 
 164. 
 
 Affectation, J.'s aversion to, iv. 26 ; 
 Swift's, 29 ; in letter- writing, v. 
 189 ; in dying men, v. 314. 
 
 Affection, natural, iii. 261 ; iv. 147. 
 
 Agriculture, Marshall's Minutes of, 
 iii. 210 ; iv. 45. 
 
 Aiken, Miss ^Mrs. Barbauld), her 
 early education, ii. 262 ; best imi- 
 tator of J.'s style, iii. 116.
 
 334 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Akcnside's "Pleasures of Imagina- 
 tion," ii. 108 ; a superior poet to 
 Gray and Mason, iii. 19. 
 Akerman, Mr., keeper of Newgate, 
 brave conduct of, during the riots 
 of 1780, iii. 289. 
 Alberti, Leandro, his " Description of 
 
 Italy," ii. 223. 
 Alchymy, J.'s partial belief in, ii. 
 
 240. 
 Alcibiades' dog, antique marble, iii. 
 
 155. 
 Alfred, J. contemplates writing life 
 
 of, i. 94 ; his will, iv. 99. 
 Allan of Muidart, Captain of Clan- 
 ronald, song in praise of, v. 
 229. 
 Allen, Mr., the printer, iii. 181 ; iv. 
 
 69 ; his death, 238. 
 Aln wick Castle, Pennant's descrip- 
 tion of, iii. 182. 
 Ambassador says well, phrase of, iii. 
 
 275. 
 
 "Amelia," Fielding's novel of, Dr. 
 J. read through without stopping, 
 iii. 26. 
 
 America, payment of army in, iv. 
 77 ; J. writes on the subject of, ii. 
 190 ; the American war, iv. 63 ; 
 (see Johnson). 
 
 Amusements, a man's character found 
 out by, iv. 215 ; those of J.'s leisure 
 hours, iii. 267. 
 Ana, the French, v. 247. 
 "Anacreon," Baxter's translation of, 
 
 v. 300. 
 Anaitis, supposed temple of, in Skye, 
 
 v. 172, 174. 
 
 Anatomy of Melancholy, J.'s admi- 
 ration of, ii. 81, 283. 
 Ancient times inferior to modern, iv. 
 
 151. 
 
 Anderson, Professor, Glasgow, v. 296. 
 Anderson, Mr., Glasgow, relates 
 
 anecdotes of J., v. 295. 
 Andrews, St., town of, v. 36 ; cathe- 
 dral, 40 ; castle, 41. 
 Anne, Queen, touches J. for the 
 king's evil ; and his remembrance 
 of her, i. 7. 
 
 Anecdotes, J.'s regard for, v. 20. 
 Annihilation, remarks on, iii. 198. 
 Anonymous publications, right to 
 
 deny, iii. 254. 
 Anoch in Glenmoriston, v. 101. 
 
 Anthologia, J. translates epigrams 
 
 in, iv. 262. 
 Antiquarian researches, iii. 224 ; iv. 
 
 262. 
 
 Apellis's Venus, iv. 78. 
 Arabs, their fidelity and long fasting, 
 
 v. 90. 
 Arbuthnot, Dr., a universal genius, 
 
 i. 246 ; superior to Swift in coarse 
 
 humour, v. 26. 
 Arbuthnot, Mr. Robert, Edinburgh, 
 
 v. 13. 
 Arches, semi-circular and elliptical, 
 
 i. 200. 
 Architecture, J.'s disapproval of 
 
 ornamental, ii. 282. 
 Argument and testimony defined, iv. 
 
 192. 
 
 Argyle, Archibald, Duke of, a nar- 
 row man, v. 275. 
 
 , John, fifth Duke of, J. visits 
 
 at Inverary, v. 281 ; letter from 
 the Duke, and J.'s answer, 289. 
 -, Elizabeth Gunning, Duchess 
 
 of, dislikes Boswell, but is very 
 
 attentive to J., v. 285. 
 Aristotle, his doctrine on the purpose 
 
 of tragedy, iii. 23 ; saying of, iv. 
 
 14. 
 
 Armidale, Isle of Skye, v. 112, 218. 
 Armorial bearings, antiquity of, ii. 
 
 117. 
 Arms, piling of, why insisted upon, 
 
 iii. 250 ; collection at Inverary 
 
 Castle, v. 282. 
 Army, officers of the, well received in 
 
 society, iii. 7 ; ignorance of, v. 316. 
 Articles, subscription to the thirty- 
 nine, ii. 69, 101 ; v. 86. 
 Ashbourne, J.'s visits to, ii. 93, 305; 
 
 iii. 88, 91 ; iv. 100. 
 Astle, Rev., Dr. J.'s advice to, on 
 
 his studies, iv. 212. 
 , Thomas, Esq., letter to, on will 
 
 of King Alfred, iv, 99. 
 Aston, Sir Thomas, and family, i. 32. 
 , Mrs. Elizabeth, ii. 298, 302 ; 
 
 iii. 88. 
 , Molly, i. 32; iii. 230, 276; 
 
 iv. 46. 
 
 Atheism, v. 29. 
 
 Atonement, doctrine of, iv. 91 ; v. 60. 
 Attachment, family, not much occa- 
 sion for, in this commercial country, 
 
 ii. 116.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Atterbury, Bishop, his expression on 
 the use of a diary, iii. 154 ; style 
 of his sermons commended, 155. 
 
 Attitudinising, J.'s aversion to, in 
 company, iv. 218. 
 
 Attorney, J.'s contempt for. ii. 86. 
 
 Auchinleck, estate and house of, i. 
 267 ; ii. 173 ; v. 302 ; deed of 
 entail, ii. 264, 271 ; v. 302. 
 
 , Lord, BoswelPs father, 
 
 character of, v. 299 ; entertains J. 
 at Auchinleck, 300 ; comes into 
 collision with J., 304 ; styles J. 
 the Ursa Major, 305. 
 
 Authors, J.'s kindness to small, iii. 
 250 ; attacks upon authors service- 
 able to them, iii. 253; v. 217; 
 Virgil's description of the entrance 
 into hell applicable to authors and 
 printing offices, v. 247. 
 
 Avarice, iii. 44, 216. 
 
 BACON, Lord, his works, and Mallet's 
 life of, iii. 130 ; precepts on con- 
 versation, iv. 161 ; History of 
 Henry VII., v. 173. 
 
 Badenoch, Wolf, of burns Elgin Ca- 
 thedral, v. 79. 
 
 Bad management,its miserable effects, 
 iii. 213. 
 
 Bagpipe, J. fond of, v. 250. 
 
 Bagshaw, Rev. Mr. Bromley, letter 
 to, on Dictionary, ii. 166; on Mrs. 
 Johnson's death, iv. 235. 
 
 Ballow, Mr., J.'s law instructor, iii. 
 14. 
 
 Baltic, J.'s proposed voyage up the, 
 iii. 89. 
 
 Banff, town of, v. 76. 
 
 Banks, Sir Joseph, J. writes motto 
 for his goat, ii. 96 ; admiration of 
 J.'s sentence on lona, v. 266. 
 
 Barber, Francis, J.'s servant, i, 129, 
 130, 131, 199; ii. 98; placed at 
 school by J., ii. 4$; letters from 
 J. to, ii. 45, 77, 78 ; J.'s liberality 
 to, iv. 272. 
 
 Barclay, W., Oxford student, defends 
 J.'s Shakspeare, i. 290; v. 217. 
 
 Barclay and Perkins's brewhouse 
 (successors to Thrale), v. 95. 
 
 Baretti, Signor, ii. 43, 287 ; iii. 4, 
 61 ; letters from J. to, i. 207, 212, 
 218 ; trial of, for murder, ii. 64 ; 
 J.'s liberality to. iv. 272. 
 
 Barnard, Mr., librarian to George 
 III., ii. 30. 
 
 , Dr., Bishop of Killaloc, J.'s 
 
 regard for, iv. 85. 
 
 Barnes, Joshua, J.'s estimate of his 
 Greek scholarship, iv. 21. 
 
 Barrington, Hon. Dames, his Essay 
 on the Migration of Birds, ii. 160. 
 
 Barry, Dr., his Treatise on Physic, 
 iii. 20. 
 
 , James, the artist, letter to 
 
 from J., iv. 140 ; grasp of mind 
 in his pictures, 154. 
 
 Bartalozzi, the engraver, the father 
 of Madame Vestris, iii. 72. 
 
 Bateman, Mr., of Christchurch Col- 
 lege, excellence of his lectures, i. 
 28. 
 
 Bath, J.'s visit to, iii. 26 ; letter from 
 a clergyman of, with J.'s answer, 
 iv. 109. 
 
 Bathurst, Lord, his testimony as to 
 " Pope's Essay on Man," iii. 270. 
 
 , Dr. Richard, a valued 
 
 friend of J.'s, i. 97, 102, 129, 133, 
 138, 140 ; iv. 27. 
 
 Baxter, Richard, his works com- 
 mended, iv. 155, 162. 
 
 Bayle's Dictionary, a very useful 
 work, i. 246 ; discussion on his 
 works with Highland minister, v. 
 227. 
 
 Bear, epithet applied to J., with 
 Goldsmith's happy remark upon, 
 ii. 48, 224. 
 
 Beaton, Cardinal, his murder, v. 42. 
 
 Beattie, Dr. James, introduced to J., 
 ii. 94; admired by J. and Mrs. 
 Thrale, i. 99 ; letter to, iii. 291 ; 
 his poem of the Hermit, iv. 132 ; 
 letter from Boswell to, v. 3 ; his 
 Essay on Truth, 13 ; his Ode on 
 Birth of Lord Hay, 72 ; his pen- 
 sion. 
 
 Beauclerk, Topham, Esq., his cha- 
 racter, i. 136 ; J.'s night ramble 
 with, i. 137 ; dinner at his house, 
 ii. 152 ; dispute with J., iii. 258 ; 
 death of, 281, 283 ; J.'s affection 
 for, iv. 15 ; sale of his library, 77. 
 , Lady Sydney (mother to 
 Topham) had no notion of a joke, 
 v. 237. 
 
 Beaumont and Fletcher, anecdote of, 
 ii. 217.
 
 336 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Beauty independent of utility, ii. 
 109 ; an insipid beauty, v. 183. 
 
 Beckford, Lord Mayor of London, iii. 
 136. 
 
 Bedlam visited by J., ii. 239. 
 
 Beggar's Opera, J.'s opinion of, ii. 
 235. 
 
 Bellamy, Mrs., the actress, letter to 
 J. from, iv. 167. 
 
 Bentley, Dr. Richard, J.'s approba- 
 tion of, ii. 285; v. 135; English 
 verses by, iv. 23. 
 
 Bentham, Dr., canon of Christchurch, 
 ii. 285. 
 
 Beresford, Mrs. and daughter, travel 
 with J. in coach to Oxford, iv. 
 194. 
 
 Berkeley, Bishop, his ideal system 
 refuted, i. 273 ; iv. 26 ; his learn- 
 ing, ii. 87. 
 
 Berwick, Memoirs of the Duke of, 
 by the Abbe Hook, iii. 192. 
 
 Betterton, the actor, inferior to 
 Foote, iii. 124. 
 
 Bible, Lowth and Patrick's commen- 
 taries, iii. 34. 
 
 Bibliotheque, J.'s scheme of, i. 160. 
 
 Binning, Lord (Langton's brother- 
 in-law), ii. 122 ; iii. 223. 
 
 Biography esteemed by J., v. 54 ; 
 defects as well as virtues should 
 be recorded, 188; literary biogra- 
 phy in England very defective, 
 190 ; King George III. proposes 
 literary biography to J., ii. 34. 
 
 Birch, Rev. Dr. Thomas, Greek epi- 
 gram to, i. 84 ; his writing dull 
 compared with his conversation, 
 i. 84 ; had more anecdotes than 
 any man, v. 201 ; Letters to, by 
 J., i. 84, 161 ; Letter from, to J., 
 i. 161. 
 
 Birmingham Market, attended by 
 J.'s father, i. 2 ; J.'s visits to his 
 friends there, i. 34 ; iv. 100, 254. 
 
 Bishops, few made for their learning, 
 ii. 227 ; v. 54 ; high degree of 
 decorum necessary in, iv. 59. 
 
 Bishop, a liquor relished by J., i. 
 137. 
 
 Blackfriars Bridge, its erection, i. 
 200. 
 
 Blacklock, Dr., the blind poet, i. 271 ; 
 v. 28 ; addresses letter to Boswell, 
 v. 328. 
 
 Blackmore, Sir Richard, life of, 
 praised, iv. 44. 
 
 Blackstone, Sir "William, his Com- 
 mentaries, v. 158 ; composed with 
 a bottle of port before him, iv. 69. 
 
 Blair, Rev. Dr. Hugh, iii. 61, 228, 
 269 ; v. 23, 44 ; his Sermons, iii. 
 62, 112; criticises J.'s style in 
 his lectures, iii. 116; letter to 
 Boswell on conversation with J. v., 
 315. 
 
 Rev Robert, his poem of the 
 
 " Grave," iii. 28. 
 
 Blaney, Elizabeth, passion for J.'s 
 father ; her death and burial, 
 i. 3 ; J. repairs her tomb, iv. 
 252. 
 
 Blank verse inferior to rhyme, i. 247 ; 
 ii. 83 ; iv. 36. 
 
 Blasphemy, question as to literary 
 property in, v. 32. 
 
 Bleeding, periodical, disapproved of, 
 iii. 102. 
 
 Blenheim Park visited, ii. 288. 
 
 Blind persons cannot distinguish co- 
 lours by the touch, ii. 124. 
 
 Blue-stocking clubs, origin of name 
 of, iv. 80. 
 
 Boar's Head Club in Eastcheap, v. 
 195. 
 
 Bodleian Library, Oxford, i. 154. 
 
 Boileau, iii. 235. 
 
 Bolingbroke, Viscount St. John, J.'s 
 striking character of, i. 148 ; said 
 to have supplied Pope with sub- 
 stance of his " Essay on Man," iii. 
 270. 
 
 Bones, human, J.'s horror at sight 
 of, v. 131 ; uses of old bones, iv. 
 141. 
 
 Bon mots, iii. 216. 
 
 Books seldom read unless purchased, 
 ii. 148 ; J. fond of looking at libra- 
 ries, ii. 234 ; such as are read with 
 pleasure, iv. 151 ; common for peo- 
 ple to talk from books, v. 301; 
 number of books in Skye, v. 208. 
 
 Booksellers liberal patrons of litera- 
 ture, i. 162, 173. 
 
 Boothby, Mrs. Hill, i. 32 ; Miss, iv. 
 46. 
 
 Boscawen, Hon. Mrs., iii. 223. 
 
 Boswell, James (the author), his an- 
 cestors, v. 11, 62; his character 
 drawn by himself, v. 32 ; his intro-
 
 INDEX. 
 
 337 
 
 duction to J., i. 225 ; his account 
 of Corsica, ii. 51 ; elected a mem- 
 ber of the Literary Club, 155; ac- 
 companies J. to the Hebrides, 172; 
 his Journal of the Tour praised by 
 J., v. 178 ; resolves to write the 
 Life of J., v. 248 ; instance of his 
 servile attentions to J., v. 211 ; in- 
 sulted by J. at Sir Joshua Rey- 
 nolds's, iii. 227 ; his tendency to 
 jollity, v. 196, 205; a clubable 
 man, iv. 174 ; Letters from J. to, 
 i. 274; ii. 10, 20, 48, 51, 73, 134, 
 170, 171, 178-184, 189-193, 200, 
 241, 242-244, 247, 263, 264, 266- 
 272 ; iii. 26, 55, 56, 59, 60, 66, 67, 
 69, 79, 81, 84, 86, 89, 141, 143, 
 144, 187, 244, 248, 252, 265, 266, 
 277, 278, 280, 292, 297; iv. 56, 
 101, 108, 110-114, 117, 158, 171, 
 178, 180, 181, 182, 235, 256-258 ; 
 His Letters to J., ii. 21-23, 43, 93, 
 97,174, 179, 180, 183, 189-192, 199, 
 246, 261, 271 ; iii. 55, 56, 57, 61, 
 67, 68, 69, 76, 80, 83, 85, 86, 88, 
 140, 142, 144, 147, 148, 186, 242, 
 251, 262, 265, 275, 277, 291, 294 ; 
 Letter from E. Dilley, iii. 72 ; from 
 Dr. Vyse, 82 ; from Mr. Langton, 
 283; from Dr. Blair, 270; from 
 "Warren Hastings, iv. 53 ; from 
 Lord Thurlow, 225; to Garrick 
 from Inverness, with Garrick' s 
 answer, v. 276, 277. 
 
 Boswell, Mrs. (the author's wife), her 
 marriage, ii. 92 ; her attentions to 
 J., ii. 174 ; v. 9 ; her witticism on 
 J.'s influence over her husband, 
 ii. 174 ; Letters of J. to, iii. 54, 
 85; iv. 113; answer, 115. 
 
 , Veronica (author's daugh- 
 ter), v. 29. 
 
 -, Sir Alexander and James, his 
 
 sons, v. 182. 
 
 , Dr., his uncle, v. 29. 
 
 -, David, his brother, iii. 291, 
 
 298. 
 
 Boufflers, Madame de, visits J., ii 
 260. 
 
 Bowles, "W., Esq., Heale, visited by 
 J., iv. 159. 
 
 Boyd, Hon. Charles, Slains Castle, 
 v. 67. 
 
 Boyd's Inn (White Horse), Edin- 
 burgh, v. 7. 
 
 Boy at school, happiest of beings, i. 
 260. 
 
 Braidwood, his academy for deaf and 
 dumb, v. 316. 
 
 Brandy, drink for heroes, iii. 257 ; 
 iv. 62. 
 
 Brett, Colonel, Mrs. and Miss, i. 93. 
 
 Bristol, J.'s excursion to, iii. 29. 
 
 British Poets, J.'s Lives of, terms 
 with publishers, iii. 71. 
 
 Brocklesby, Dr. Richard, iv. 125 ; 
 his liberality, 227 ; Letters from 
 J. to, iv. 160, 237. 
 
 Brothers and sisters born to friends, 
 i. 184. 
 
 Browne, Sir Thomas, his Anglo-Latin 
 diction and elevated style imitated 
 by J., i. 121 ; his remark concern- 
 ing devils, iii. 197. 
 
 Brown, Tom, dedicates his spelling- 
 book to the universe, i. 7. 
 
 , Capability, the landscape gar- 
 dener, iii. 269. 
 
 Brooks, Mrs., the actress, and her 
 father, v. 121. 
 
 Bruce, James, Esq., the Abyssinian 
 traveller, ii. 216. 
 
 Brutes not endowed with reason, ii. 
 160. 
 
 Buchan, Earl of, his refusal to go to 
 Spain as secretary, ii. 115. 
 
 , Butler of, v. 69. 
 
 Buchanan, George, his elegant verses 
 to Queen Mary, i. 265 ; his learn- 
 ing and genius, ii. 64; iv. 131. 
 
 Buckles, shoe, v. 6 ; J.'s silver 
 buckles, iii. 219. 
 
 Buck, a term ludicrously applied to 
 J., v. 145. 
 
 Budgell, Eustace, his suicide, ii. 
 148. 
 
 Bull-dogs, iii. 127. 
 
 Bull, one uttered by J., iv. 218. 
 
 Bunyan, John, praise of his " Pil- 
 grim's Progress," ii. 155. 
 
 Burgoyne, General, his disaster at 
 Saratoga, iii. 240. 
 
 Burial service, iv. 148. 
 
 Burke, Edmund, intended to answer 
 Berkeley, i. 274; his stream of 
 mind perpetual, ii. 287 ; his ap- 
 pearance in the House of Com- 
 mons, ii. 17, 87 ; J.'s remark on 
 seeing Burke' s fine house and lands 
 at Beaconsfield, iii. 208 ; his con-
 
 333 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 versational powers, iv. 21, 119, 
 189; v. 16; J. denies that Burke 
 had wit, 16, 168. 
 
 Burnet, Bishop, his " History of his 
 own Times," ii. 138 ; v. 225. 
 
 Burney, Dr. Charles, his " History 
 of Music," v. 48 ; his visit to J. in 
 Gough Square, i. 185; his note of 
 J.'s sayings, ii. 261 ; recommended 
 by J. to friends in Oxford, iii. 247; 
 relates anecdote of J.,iv. 99; Let- 
 ters from J. to, i. 290; iv. 164, 
 242, 256. 
 
 Miss Frances, afterwardsMa- 
 
 dame D'Arblay, iv. 154, 188; her 
 imitation of J.'s style, 265. 
 
 Busts of J., iv. 285. 
 
 Butcher, J. discourses on trade of, v. 
 195. 
 
 Bute John, Earl of, Prime Minister 
 when J. received his pension, i. 
 213 ; a theoretical man, ii. 228, 
 303 ; his influence and nationality, 
 v. 159 ; Letters to, i. 215, 217. 
 
 Ann, Countess of, married Lord 
 
 Strichen ; her account of her mar- 
 riage, v. 74. 
 
 Butler, Samuel, the poet, ii. 154, 236; 
 v. 36, 177. 
 
 Butler, Bishop, his "Analogy," v. 29. 
 
 Butter, Dr. W., iii. 1, 103, 109. 
 
 Byng, Admiral, his epitaph, i. 178 ; 
 J's. defence of, i. 178. 
 
 Hon. John, letter on J.'s death, 
 
 iv. 282. 
 
 Byron, Lord, his simile of the struck 
 eagle, v. 174. 
 
 CADOOAN'S, Dr., Treatise on the Gout, 
 
 criticised, v. 165. 
 Calcot, George, iii. 30. 
 Callimachus, remarks on, iv. 10. 
 Cambridge, J.'s visit to, i. 283. 
 , Mr. Owen, ii. 232, 234 ; 
 
 iii. 169 ; iv. 136. 
 Camden, Lord, iii. 209. 
 Cameron of Lochiel, i. 75. 
 
 , Dr. i. 75 ; v. 157. 
 
 Campbell, Dr. John, i. 242; ii. 140, 
 
 220, 286 ; J.'s opinion of, iii. 163. 
 -, author of " Lexiphanes," 
 
 -, Mungo, iii. 126. 
 
 -, Hon. Archibald, iv. 196 ; 
 
 account of, v. 284. 
 
 Campbell, General, v. 206. 
 
 , Principal, v. 61. 
 
 " Candide," Voltaire's, iii. 240. 
 
 Cant, iv. 152. 
 
 Card-playing, iii. 14. 
 
 Carlisle, Earl of, " Father's Revenge," 
 
 iv. 169 ; poems by, iv. 85. 
 Carr, Rev. Mr., Episcopal Minister 
 
 in Edinburgh, v. 12. 
 Carte's " Life of the Duke of Or- 
 
 mond," v. 236. 
 Carter, Elizabeth, i. 61, 70, 71 ; iii. 
 
 113. 
 
 Cascade, Eorie Morels, v. 163, 170. 
 Caste, J.'s defence of Oriental system 
 
 of, iv. 67. 
 Castiglione's " II Corteggiano," v. 
 
 219. 
 
 Cat, story of dead, iii. 12T. 
 Catalogue of J.'s works, iii. 216. 
 Catechism of Church of England, v. 
 
 47. 
 
 Cave, Mr. Edward, proprietor of Gen- 
 tleman's Magazine, i. 38, 54, 76 ; 
 
 J.'s Life of, i. 142. J.'s ode to, 
 
 i. 55 ; Letters from, i. 77 ; letters 
 
 from J. to, i. 38, 50,. 59, 60, 61, 69, 
 
 70, 110, 111. 
 
 Caves, remarkable, v. 155, 187- 
 Cawdor Castle, v. 84 - f family of, v. 
 
 85. 
 
 Chambers, Sir Robert, ii.. 23 ; v. 4, 7. 
 , Sir "William, architect, iv. 
 
 132 ; letter from J. to, i. 153. 
 
 -, Catherine, death of, ii. 35. 
 
 Chamberlayne, Rev. Mr., conversion 
 to Romanism, iv. 197. 
 
 Chancellor of Oxford's letter to Uni- 
 versity, i. 158. 
 
 Chantilly, ii. 256. 
 
 Chapone, Mrs., letter from J. lo, iv, 
 170. 
 
 Charade by J., iv. 135. 
 
 Charity, rules for the distribution of, 
 v. 298. 
 
 Charles the Twelfth of Sweden, i. 
 105. 
 
 Fifth, Emperor, iii. 165. 
 
 First, said he could not be a 
 
 lawyer, ii. 139 ; his concessions, 
 v. 369 ; his murder, ii. 237. 
 
 Second, J. defends, ii. 220, 
 
 237. 
 
 Chatham, Lord, iii. 241 ; iv. 215 ; v. 
 159.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 339 
 
 Chatsworth, iii. 140 ; J.'s visit to, 
 iv. 240 ; his literary forgeries, iii. 
 29 ; iv. 104. 
 
 Cheating, ii. 220. 
 
 Chester, iii. 276-8. 
 
 Chesterfield, Lord, i. 97, 143-148; 
 iii. 32 ; iv. 224 ; J. dedicates plan 
 of Dictionary to, i. 97, 98; J.'s 
 quarrel with, i. 143-148 ; his papers 
 in the " World," i. 143 ; J.'s cele- 
 brated letter to, i. 145 ; iv. 95 ; 
 applies epithet of " respectable Hot- 
 tentot" to J., i. 148 ; his poems, 
 ii. 138 ; " Letters to his Son," i. 
 148; ii. 213; Billy's edition of 
 his works, iii. 238. 
 
 Cheyne, Dr. George, on the " English 
 Malady," i. 32 ; iii. 55 ; J.'s opinion 
 of his works, iii. 16 ; his rules for 
 living, v. 117. 
 
 Cheynel, J.'s " Life of," i. 126. 
 
 Chief, Highland, duty of, v. 161, 
 183, 218. 
 
 Children, education of, i. 9, 23, 260 ; 
 should not always be brought into 
 company, iii. 17. 
 
 China, manufacture of, iii. 109. 
 
 Chinese, remarks on the, iii. 228. 
 
 Cholmondelly, Hon. Mrs., iii. 173, 
 213 ; v. 196. 
 
 Church, attendance at, iii. 269 ; holi- 
 days of, ii. 292. 
 
 Gibber, Colley, i. 143, 231, 232; ii. 
 219; iii. 45, 123; Lives of the 
 Poets, iii. 18 ; Mrs., v. 90. 
 
 Clarke, Dr. S., i. 229; ii.69; iii. 166. 
 
 Clark, Alderman, letter from J. to, 
 iv. 177. 
 
 Clarendon, style of, iii. 174. 
 
 Claret and Port, J.'s comparison be- 
 tween, iii. 256. 
 
 Classical terms, modern use of, iii. 
 189 ; quotations, iv. 128. 
 
 Classics, iv. 151. 
 
 Clement Danes, St., Church of, ii. 
 139, 229 ; iii. 202 ; inscription in 
 J.'s pew at, ii. 138. 
 
 Clergy, Scotch and English com- 
 pared, v. 199. 
 
 Clerical decorum and dress, iv. 59, 60. 
 
 Clive, Lord, remarks on, iv. 225, 269. 
 
 , Mrs., the actress, iv. 13. 
 
 Cloth, Scotch process of "wawking," 
 v. 170. 
 
 Club in Fox Lane, formed by J., i. 
 
 102 ; Literary, founded by Sir 
 
 Joshua Reynolds, i. 277 ; Essex 
 
 Head, formed by J., iv. 174. 
 Coachmaker's Hall, religious meet- 
 ings at, iv. 61, 71. 
 Cobb, Mrs., ii. 299 ; iii. 275. 
 Cock Lane Ghost, i. 234, 
 
 iii. 180. ' 
 
 Coll, island of, ii.172; v. 224, 234-239. 
 Colchester, siege of, i. 271, 
 Colman, George, ii. 206 ; iv. 220. 
 Colquhoun, Sir James and Lady 
 
 Helen, entertain J. at Rosedow, 
 
 v. 288. 
 "Collectanea," Dr. Maxwell's, ii. 
 
 78-88. 
 
 Colleges, bequests to, iii. 206. 
 Collins the poet, his melancholy, i. 
 
 219 ; J.'s " Life of," i. 219. 
 Colson, Rev. Mr., letter to, from Gil- 
 bert "Walmesley, i. 48. 
 Composition, instructions relative to, 
 
 iii. 293 ; v. 44. 
 
 Compositor, story of a, iv. 218. 
 Compliment, letters of, to J. from 
 
 abroad, iv. 12. 
 
 " Comus," J.'s prologue to, i. 124. 
 Condescension, iv. 11. 
 Congreve, fine passage in " Mourning 
 
 Bride," of, ii. 59 ; Life of, iv. 45. 
 Conge d'elire, J.'s definition of, iv. 
 
 219 ; Evening Society for, iv. 68 ; 
 
 Mrs. Thrale's remarks on J.'s, iv. 
 
 87; general remarks on, iv. 118, 
 
 218; v. 
 
 Convents, ii. 14, 280. 
 Conversation, remarks on, ii. 231, 
 
 304; iii. 180. 
 Convicts, religious instruction of, iv. 
 
 222. 
 
 Cooke, Captain, iii. 5. 
 , Mr., his singular presentation 
 
 of Foote, v. 19. 
 
 Cookery, Mrs. Glass's, iii. 192. 
 Coote, Sir Eyre, v. 89, 92. 
 "Coriat Junior," book of Travels, 
 
 ii. 114. 
 Cork, Earl of, J.'s remark on, iii. 
 
 122. 
 
 Corneille and Shakspeare, iv. 18. 
 Corpulency, iv. 128. 
 Corrichatachin, J.'s kind reception 
 
 at, v. 119. 
 Cotterel, Misses, incidents of J.'s 
 
 acquaintance with, i. 134.
 
 340 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Country, love of, ii. 68 ; life in the, 
 
 in 239, iv 227; v. 75. 
 Courage, iv. 202. 
 Court of Session, mode of pleading 
 
 in, v. 316. 
 
 Coverley, Sir Roger de, ii. 237. 
 Cowdray Hall, iv. 115. 
 Cowley, Hurd's Select "Works of, iii. 
 
 17 ; J.'s Life of, iv. 34 ; his con- 
 densation of thought, v. 274. 
 Coxeter, Thomas Eyre, makes large 
 
 collection of Works of British Poets, 
 
 iii. 106. 
 Cradock, Mr., author of "Zobeide," 
 
 iii. 23. 
 Credulity, French, v. 262 ; English 
 
 not less than Scotch, v. 308. 
 Creeds and confessions, v. 86. 
 Criticism not injurious to authors, iii. 
 
 283 ; Kames's Elements of, ii. 61. 
 Cromwell, J.'s projected Life of, iv. 
 
 160. 
 Crosbie, Mr. Andrew, ii. 240 ; v. 27 ; 
 
 his comparison of the English and 
 
 Scotch, v. 7. 
 Crosses, ancient, v. 132. 
 Crowns, Three, Inn, at Lichfield, ii. 
 
 295. 
 Cruikshank, Mr., surgeon, J.'s letter 
 
 to, iv. 246. 
 Cullen, town of, v. 76. 
 
 , Dr., iv. 179 ; v. 26. 
 
 Culloden, battle of, ii. 174 ; v. 151. 
 Cumberland, Mr., Odes of, iii. 26 ; 
 
 his "Fashionable Lovers," v. 136. 
 Gumming, Thomas, the Quaker, v. 69. 
 
 DALRYMPLE, Sir John, entertains J., 
 v. 317 ; his Memoirs of Great Bri- 
 tain and Ireland, ii. 136. 
 
 , Sir David, vide Hailes. 
 
 Dancing, report of J.'s learning, iv. 
 62. 
 
 Danes, colony of in Fifeshire, v. 47. 
 
 Davies, Thomas, actor and bookseller, 
 character of, i. 224 ; introduces 
 Boswell to J., i. 225 ; his wife re- 
 markable for beauty, i. 224, 281 ; 
 his Life of Garrick, iii. 291 ; letters 
 from J. to, iv. 157, 246. 
 
 Death, remarks on, i. 191 ; ii. 62 ; iv. 
 109, 191, 203 ; v. 139 ; fear of, ii. 
 72 ; iii. 197, 210 ; warrants signed 
 by Sixtus Quintus on his death-bed, 
 v- 190. 
 
 Deeds, remarks on registration of, iv 
 58. 
 
 De Foe, Daniel, J.'s opinion of, iii. 
 180. 
 
 " Deformities of J.," iv. 108. 
 
 Dempster, George, Esq., his high 
 opinion of J.'s conversation, i. 251 ; 
 letter on J.'s Journey, v. 321. 
 
 Demonax Johnson, so styled by Rev. 
 Dr. Francklin, iv. 30. 
 
 Denis, St., J.'s description of, ii. 256. 
 
 Dennis, John, the critic, iii. 24. 
 
 Derby, manufactory of china at, iii. 
 109; J.'s marriage at, i. 42. 
 
 Derrick, Mr., the poet, J.'s regard 
 for, i. 221. 
 
 Desmoulins, Mrs., i. 21, 131 ; J.'s 
 kindness to, iii. 151, 298 ; her ac- 
 count of J., i. 32. 
 
 Devil, printer's, marriage of a, iv. 73. 
 
 Devonshire, J.'s trip to, i. 215; Duke 
 of, iii. 125. 
 
 Devotion, remarks on, iv. 155. 
 
 Diary, J.'s, i. 27. 
 
 Diaries, remarks on, ii. 141. 
 
 Dictionary of the English language, 
 by J., i. 96, 97, 143; 271; plan 
 of, dedicated to Lord Chesterfield, 
 i. 97 ; anecdote of its commence- 
 ment, i. 97 ; amanuenses employed 
 on, i. 99 ; principal publishers of, 
 i. 97, 963 ; published, i. 165 ; pre- 
 face to, i. 165, 168 ; definitions in, 
 i. 167, 168 ; Garrick's compli- 
 mentary epigram on, i. 169 ; au- 
 thorities cited, iv. 11. 
 
 Dictionaries, pronouncing, ii. 106. 
 
 Dick, Sir Alexander, iv. 179 ; v. 29 ; 
 letter to J. from, iii. 65. 
 
 Dilly, Messrs., booksellers, iii. 4, 40; 
 dinners at, ii. 218 ; iii. 40-43, 191 ; 
 iv. 76, 190 ; letters from J. to, iii. 
 83 ; iv. 177 ; death of E. Dilly, iii. 
 266. 
 
 Dinner, at J.'s house, on Easter 
 
 Sunday, ii. 140. 
 Divorce, remarks on, iii. 236. 
 Dixie, Sir "Wolstan, i. 34. 
 Dodd, Dr., iii. 78, 79, 110 ; iv. 144 ; 
 J.'s interference in behalf of, iii. 
 93-100 ; his " Thoughts in Prison," 
 iii. 181. 
 
 Doddridge, Dr. Philip, his fine epi- 
 gram, v. 216. 
 Dodsley, Robert, author and pub-
 
 INDEX. 
 
 341 
 
 lisher, purchases copyright of J.'s 
 " London," i. 61 ; advises J. to 
 address plan of his Dictionary to 
 Lord Chesterfield, i. 97, 98 ; his 
 " Preceptor," i. 102 ; fixes the title 
 of " The World." i. 143 ; describes 
 effect of J.'s letter to Chester- 
 field, i. 147; his "Cleone" and 
 " Public Virtue," iv. 21 ; is one of 
 the purchasers of "Rasselas," i. 
 195 ; his character, ii. 286. 
 
 Dogs, Maclean of Col could run 
 down, v. 261 ; J. separates two 
 fighting dogs, ii. 194; describes a 
 well -shaped bull -dog, iii. 127; 
 eaten at Otaheite and China, ii. 150. 
 
 Dominicelli's medicated baths, ii. 66. 
 
 Donaldson, Alexander, bookseller, i. 
 253. 
 
 Douglas, cause, famous Scots law- 
 suit, ii. 39 ; v. 12. 
 
 , Rev. Dr., Bishop of Salis- 
 bury, detects Lauder's forgery, i. 
 126; sups at the Crown and An- 
 chor with J., ii. 46 ; his opinion 
 on ecclesiastical discipline, iv. 189. 
 -, tragedy of, by John Home, 
 
 J.'s contempt for, ii. 207 ; v. 287. 
 
 Draughts-, game of, tranquillizes the 
 mind, i. 179. 
 
 Dress, ii. 306 ; J.'s gay dress as a 
 dramatic author, i. 108 ; his care- 
 less morning style, i. 228 ; im- 
 proved dress, iii. 219; iv. 220 ; his 
 dress on his Scottish tour, v. 5 ; 
 time wasted in dressing, 45. 
 
 Drinking, much declined of late years, 
 v. 38 ; arguments against, iii. 24, 
 114, 261; v. 257. 
 
 Drummond, "William, the poet, his 
 " Cypress Grove," v. 139 ; his seat 
 of Hawthornden visited, 318. 
 
 , Mr. W., the bookseller, 
 
 J.'s letters to, on translating the 
 Scriptures into the Gaelic lan- 
 guage, ii. 25-27. 
 
 Dryden, John, compared with Pope, 
 by Voltaire and J., ii. 11, 60; his 
 dedications, v. 189; his coffee- 
 house habits, iii. 45 ; his religious 
 opinions, 235, iv. 37 ; his philo- 
 sophical lines on life, iv. 206. 
 
 Duelling, J.'s defence of, ii. 118 ; iv. 
 147 ; v. 9, 182. 
 
 Duubui, a remarkable rock, v. 68. 
 
 " Dunciad," criticism on, ii. 58. 
 Dundas, Henry Viscount Melville, i. 
 
 148 ; ii. 106 ; iii. 143. 
 Dun, Rev. Mr., v. 304. 
 Dun Can, a high mountain, v. 132. 
 Duncombe, W. Jfsq., of Canterbury, 
 
 iii. 211. 
 
 Dunning's, Mr., Remark on J., iii. 162. 
 Duntalm Castle, ancient residence of 
 
 the Macdonalds, v. 112. 
 Dunvegan Castle, seat of Macleod, v. 
 162, 175, 185. 
 
 Durham on the Galatians, v. 304. 
 Dutch language, affinity to English, 
 
 iii. 158 ; Johnson tries in advanced 
 
 life to learn it, iv. 22; v. 202; 
 
 Dyer's "Fleece," subject unpo- 
 
 etical, ii. 289. 
 
 EAGLE, Classical fable of, v. 174. 
 Early rising, J.'s aversion to, iii. 113. 
 East Indies, wealth acquired in, iii. 
 
 268. 
 
 Economy, paltry, iii. 200. 
 Edensor, Inn, Derbyshire, iii. 140. 
 Edial House, J.'a Academy, i. 43. 
 Edinburgh, J.'s arrival in, v. 7 ; 
 
 White Horse Inn, v. 7. 
 
 -, Episcopal Chapel in, v. 12; 
 
 Parliament House, v. 12 ; Holyrood 
 House, v. 25 ; St. Giles's Church, 
 v. 23 ; College, v. 24 ; Royal In- 
 firmary, v. 24. 
 
 Education, J.'s opinion on, ii. 12, 
 262 ; public and private, v. 58, 68 ; 
 Scotch, ii. 233 ; national, iv. 150. 
 
 Edwards on Grace, discussion on, iii. 
 195. 
 
 -, Rev. Dr., letter from J. to, 
 
 iii. 248. 
 
 -, Mr., J.'s fellow-collegian, 
 
 meeting with, iii. 203, 206. 
 Eels, skinning of, iii. 256. 
 Eglintoune, Earl of, remark on J.'s 
 
 manners, ii. 48; character of, v. 
 
 114; shot by Mungo Campbell, iii. 
 
 126. 
 
 , Countess of, celebrated for 
 
 her beauty and accomplishments, 
 v. 298 ; adopts J. as her son, v. 299. 
 
 Egyptians, ancient, discussion as to 
 appearance, iv. 93. 
 
 Eldon, Lord, opinion on law of copy- 
 right, v. 32. 
 
 Election, freedom of, ii 219.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 'Elfrida," Mr. Mason's, criticised, 
 ii. 217. 
 
 Elgin, v. 79, 81 ; cathedral, v. 79. 
 
 Elibank, Lord, his admiration, of J.'s 
 powers, iii. 15 ; J.'s character of, 
 v. 307 ; letter to Boswell, v. 140 ; 
 toJ., v. 14L 
 
 Eliot, Mr., of Port Eliot, iv. 61. 
 
 Elizabeth, Queen, her learning, iv. 16. 
 
 Ellis, Jack, the Money Scrivener, 
 iii. 13. 
 
 Ellen, Landlady at, her opinion, of J* 
 v. 66. 
 
 Elphinatone, Mr. James, i. 114, 115 ; 
 his edition of the " Eambler," i. 
 114 ; letters from J., toi. 115> 116 ; 
 notice of, ii 146. 
 
 Elwal, the heretic, ii. 109. 
 
 Emigration, iii. 156; v. ii. 53^ 160. 
 
 England, Church of, ii. 114; disci- 
 pline of, iv, 190; 
 
 English Divines, iii. 166; LaWj iv. 
 210 ; English and Jewish History 
 compared, v. 269; 
 
 Englishmen, their reserve towards 
 strangers, iv. 134. 
 
 , and Frenchmen com- 
 pared, iv. 17; 
 
 Entails, ii. 276 ; T. 70 ; J.'s letters 
 on, ii 266, 269, 27L 
 
 Enthusiasm, ancient Highland, V; 115 
 
 Envy, natural to mankind^ iii. 182. 
 
 Epictetus on the voyage of death, v. 
 221. 
 
 Epigram, Johnson's, to Richard Sa^ 
 vagc, i. 86 ; Garrick'Sj on J.'s Dic- 
 tionary, i. 169 j on a miracle, iii. 
 205 ; one of the finest in. the lan- 
 guage, v. 216. 
 
 Epitaphs, on Elisabeth Blaney, i. 3 ; 
 on Phillips, the singer^ i. 76 ; on 
 Mrs. Johnson, i. 133 ; on Admiral 
 Byng, i. lt8 ; on Soame Jenyns, 
 by Boswell, i. 179 ; on Goldsmith, 
 iii. 52 ; on Dr. Adams, iv. 255 ; on 
 Dr. J., iv. 287; on Smollett, 
 v. 292 ;, on Sir J. Macdonald, v. 
 115 ; J.'s essay on, i. i5. 
 
 Erasmus, iv. 202. 
 
 Errol, Earl of, visit to, v. 67, 71. 
 
 Countess of, v. 67, 68. 
 
 Erskine, Hon. Thomas, afterwards 
 Lord, ii. 114, 115; Sir Harry, i. 
 222; Rev. Dr., v. 311. 
 
 Estates, sale of, v. 25.5. 
 
 " Essay on Man," Pope's, Boling- 
 
 broke's share in, iii. 269. 
 Evil, origin of, v. 82. 
 Exaggeration, its bad efifeuts, iv. 63, 
 
 126. 
 
 Excise, J.'s definition of, i. 167. 
 Execution, account of one, v. 72. 
 Exhibition of paintings, i. 209 ; iv. 
 
 140. 
 Extravagance, iii. 178, 212, 236. 
 
 FALCONER, non-juring Bishop, iii.251. 
 Falkland Islands, J.'s pamphlet on, 
 
 ii. 90, 
 "False Alarm," J.'s pamphlet, ii-75, 
 
 76 ; remarks on answer to, iv. 28. 
 Fame, remarks on, iii. 177 ', k v. ; 
 
 Literary, iu 230. 
 Family Chronicle, v. 173; pride v. 
 
 210; Farmer, Rev. Dr., letters 
 
 from 1 J. to, ii; 77 ; Hi; 284. 
 Farquhar, George, his writings, iv. 
 
 13. 
 
 Faulkner, George, T. 26. 
 Female characters, J.'s, u 122. 
 Ferguson, Sir Adam, ii. Ill ; Dr. 
 
 Adam, v; 24. 
 Ferns^ Deanery of, iv. 58, 
 Fiction, real, little in the world, iv. 
 
 161; 
 
 Fidelity, conjugal, iii. 15. 
 
 Fielding, Henry $ i. 139 ; ii; 114 ; and 
 Richardson, curious comparison ; be- 
 tween, ii. 38, 114U 
 
 Fife, Earl of, v. 76. 
 
 Findlater, Lord, v. 77. 
 
 Fitzherbert, Mr., remarks on, m. 
 100 ; Alleyne, Miaister to Court 
 of Russia, i. 32. 
 
 Fladder, Isle of, v. 133. 
 
 Flattery, generally pleasing, ii- 23'4 ; 
 of Johnson, iii., 197. 
 
 Flaxman, Mr., origin- of J/s dislike 
 to, iv. 220. 
 
 Fleet Street, i. 266 ; ii. 218 ;, iii. 202. 
 
 Flint, Bet, iv. 77. 
 
 Florentine Boar, iii. 156. 
 
 Florizel and Perdita, song in, ii- 55. 
 
 Floyd, Thomas, the author, i. 263. 
 
 Floyer, Sir John, "Treatise on Cold 
 Baths," i. 38 ; iv. 183. 
 
 Foote, Sam., ii. 63, 64, 103, 196, 259; 
 iii. 43, 124; iv. 189; v. 19, 219. 
 
 Forbes, Sir William, v. 18, 20. Let- 
 ter to BoswelL v. 325.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Ford, Parson, i. 11; story of bis 
 ghost, iiu 256* 
 
 Forests, Scotch, v. 188. 
 
 Torres, v. 8.1 ; pillar, v. 82-. 
 
 Fort Augustus, v* 100 ; George, v. 88. 
 
 Fortitude and Insensibility, i s 19. 
 
 Foster, Elizabeth, grand- daughter of 
 Milton, i.. 125. 
 
 Foulis, Mes srs.,v.. 296; Sir James, v. 
 114, 19U 
 
 " Fountains the," a tale by J., ii. 24. 
 
 Fox, Right lion. Charles James, Ui. 
 179 j iv.. 119, 191, 200; his con- 
 vernation, iv, 119. 
 
 France, J.'s, visit to, ii. 249; Journal 
 of Tour in,iu 249 royal family of, 
 ii. 252;; state of literature in, iiL 
 171, 
 
 Fraser, Mr., of Strichen, v. 74; Ge- 
 neral, iii. 3, 
 
 Freewill, remarks o% iii, 195; iy. 
 223-, 
 
 Frenjch writers, their superficial cha- 
 racter, i. 261 ; character, ii. 2o9 ; 
 Maid; of honour, flattery by a, iii. 
 210; invasion, fear of, iii. 219; 
 garrulity, iv. 17 ; blunder from 
 ignorance of language, iv. 28 ; li- 
 terature, iv. 162; manners, iy. 17, 
 162; credulity, v. 262 1 . 
 
 Friday, Giood, J.'s strict observance 
 of, ii. 227 ; iii. 210 ; Friends, J.'s 
 anxiety for religious improvement 
 of, iv.. 2.80; attention of, iu J.'s 
 last illness, iv. 276. 
 
 Friendship, ii. 231; iii. 195; acti- 
 vity of J.'s, iv. 231 ; importaaice 
 of old- v. 61 ;. ode to, i, 82, 
 
 Funeral^an extraordinary one, v. 186 ; 
 J ..'s,. iv. 283, 
 
 Future State, recognition in, ii, 107. 
 
 GAEIIC, proposal to translate Bible 
 into, ii. 24-7. 
 
 Gaming, ii. 115.; iii. 14. 
 
 Garragantua, J. compared tc> iii. \13. 
 
 Gardening, oriental, v. 145. 
 
 Gardens, remarks on, iv. 142. 
 
 Gardenstenc, Lord, v. 50v 
 
 Gardiner, Mrs,, i. 133. 
 
 Gardner, Mr., the bookseller, ii. 222; 
 
 Garrick, David, i. 43, 47, 75, 103, 
 106, 169, 226, 229, 279; ii. 55, 
 59, 87, 147, 151, 211, 262 ; iii. 21, 
 31, 44, 173, 174, 175, 177, 207, 
 
 259 ; iy, 71, 188 ; v. 90, IBS, 217 ; 
 J/s envy of, L 88, 22.6; iii. 14, 
 209 ; becomes manager of Dcury 
 Lane Theatre, i. 106 ; epigram on 
 J.'s Dictionary, i. 169 ; death of, 
 iii. 251 ; monument iu Liehfield 
 Cathedral, iii. 251 ; expense of his 
 funeral, iv. 144 ; J.'s eiilogium on, 
 iii. 160 ; his embarrassment in 
 Westminster Hall, v. 193; and 
 Foote compared, v. 310 ; letter 
 from, to BosweU, v. 277 ; Mrs., 
 account of, iv. 71 ; Captain, i. 71 ; 
 George, i. 43; Peter, i. 46 ; ii. 
 282, 296, 299 ; iii. 276. 
 
 Gastrel, Mrs., ii. 302 ; iii. 2?6. 
 
 Gataker " On Loss and the Christian 
 World/' v. 240. 
 
 Gay's " Beggar's Opera/' ii. 235, 
 
 Gentleman's Magazine, i. 54, 55, 55, 
 57, 71, 75, 76, 78, 81, 87* 95, 181 ; 
 extrordinary sale of, iii. 21 6 
 
 George II., i. 74, 114; III. pre- 
 sented with manuscript of " Irene," * 
 L 51 5 accession of, i. 202j 213; 
 y. 159 ; pension to J. from, i. 213 ;. 
 J."s interview with, ii 30>4 ; reign 
 of, iv. 139. 
 
 Gerrard, Dr., v. 63. 
 
 Ghosts, ii. 108, 116, 119; iii. 15o, 
 199,236, 238, 180; iv. 71. 
 
 Gibbon, Edward, the historian, ii. 
 223; iii. 32, 169. 
 
 Gibbons, Dr., dissenting minister, 
 iv. 93. 
 
 " Gifford, Old," manager of GoooV 
 man's-Fields' Theatre, L 89. 
 
 GiUespie, Dr., iv. 179. 
 
 Glasgow, ii. 172 ; v. 110. 
 
 Glenelg, wretched inn at, v. 11(X 
 
 Glcig, Mr., Montrose, y. 49. 
 
 Glenshiel, v. 106. 
 
 Glenmoriston, laird of> v. 102. 
 
 Gobelin's Tapestry, ii. 249. 
 
 Goldsmith, Oliver, i. 239, 240 1 , 241 ; 
 ii 16, 127, 144, 149, 150>. 15?, 
 155, 167 ; iii. 22, HOy 182;. v. 76, 
 103; his peculiar dress, ii. 58 ; love 
 of talking,ii. 122, 163, 165, v. 219; 
 aiiairel with Evans the bookseller, 
 ii. 136; quarrel with Johnson, ii. 
 163 ; anecdotes of, i. 240 ; ii. 35, 
 68, 167 ; iv. 14, 26 ; v. 67 ; project 
 of going to Aleppo, iv. 23 ; his 
 death, ii. 181 ; debt at his death,
 
 344 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ii. 181 ; J.'s epitaph on, iii. 52 ; 
 
 his " Vicar of Wakefield," iii. 215 ; 
 
 his comedies refused hy Garrick 
 
 and Colman, iii. 215 ; J.'s prologue 
 
 to " Goodnatured Man," ii. 36 ; 
 
 "Traveller," ii. 11; "Deserted 
 
 Village," ii. 12 ; " Life of Parnell," 
 
 ii. 109 ; " Animated Nature," ii. 
 
 119, 150; " Goldy," caUed, by J., 
 
 ii. 166. 
 Good breeding, in what it consists, ii. 
 
 57; effect of, iv. 216. 
 Goodier, Samuel, Esq., v. 19. 
 Good humour acquirable, v. 166. 
 Goodness, observations upon natural, 
 
 v. 169. 
 Gordon, Lord George, iii. 286 ; iv. 
 
 66; his riots, J.'s account of, iii. 
 
 285-9. 
 
 , Sir Alexander, v. 58. 
 
 , Hon. Alex., v. 314. 
 
 -, Alex., Duke of, and his castle, 
 
 v. 80. 
 , Professor Thomas, Aberdeen, 
 
 v. 57. 
 Gory, Lord Monboddo's servant, 
 
 v. 55. 
 
 Gout, J., afflicted with, iv. 164. 
 Government, iii. 28, 190; purchases, 
 
 iv. 224; influence, ii. 79, 227, 
 
 228 ; iv. 63. 
 Gower, Earl, Pope recommends J. to, 
 
 i. 65. 
 Graddened meal in Highlands, v. 
 
 129. 
 Graham, Lord, iii. 257 ; Miss (Lady 
 
 Dashwood), iii. 273. 
 Grainger, Dr., ii. 290; his Biogra- 
 phical Dictionary, v. 202 ; Ode on 
 
 Solitude, iii. 133. 
 Grange, Lady, strange history of, 
 
 v. 179. 
 
 Grant, Rev. Mr., of Daviot, v. 86, 96. 
 Gratitude, a fruit of cultivation, v. 
 
 184. 
 
 Grattan, Mr., Speech on Irish free- 
 dom, iv. 215. 
 " Grave," Blair's, iii. 28. 
 Gray, the poet, J.'s opinion of, i. 232 ; 
 
 poems, ii. 108, 212, 217; odes, iv. 
 
 16. 
 Greek, J.'s advice on study of, iii. 
 
 272 ; J.'s knowledge of, iv. 262 ; 
 
 compared to lace by J., iv. 23; 
 
 Clenardus's 
 
 Green, Mr. Richard, apothecary, iii. 
 
 275; his museum, ii. 298; letter 
 
 from J. to, iv. 167, 
 Greenwich, J.'s residence at, i. 50 ; 
 
 J. and B. at, i. 265. 
 Gregory, Dr., Edinburgh, v. 29. 
 Grief on loss of friends, iii. 92. 
 Groot, De, J.'s kindness to, iii. 
 
 82. 
 
 Ground, consecrated, v. 131. 
 Grub Street, iv. 132. 
 Grugach Stones, Highland supersti- 
 tion, v. 127. 
 Guardians, iii. 268. 
 Gulliver, Mrs., Pope's epistle in 
 
 name of, v. 104. 
 Gustavus, Adolphus, Dr. Heart's 
 
 History of, iv. 61. 
 Guthrie, Mr. William, i. 57. 
 Gwyn, the architect, ii. 281. 
 
 HABIT, force of, ii. 217. 
 
 Hackman, Mr., trial of, for murder 
 of Miss Ray, iii. 258. 
 
 Hailes, Lord (Sir David Dalrymple), 
 i. 148, 260 ; ii. 242, 264, 268, 271 ; 
 iv. 214; v. 20, 29; "Annals of 
 Scotland," ii. 179 ; iii. 34; Letter 
 to Boswell, v. 320. 
 
 Hales, John, of Eton, iv. 214. 
 
 Hale, Lord Chief Justice, iv. 211. 
 
 Hall, Bishop, ii. 13 ; Mrs., Letter from 
 John Wesley to, iv. 69. 
 
 Hamilton, Hon. Gerard, i. 285 ; Let- 
 ters from J. to, iv. 169, 245 ; kind- 
 ness to J., iv. 169 ; of Bangor's 
 Poems, iii. 101. 
 
 Mr., of Sundrum, v. 19 ; Duchess, v. 
 283 ; Lady Betty, v. 285. 
 
 Hamlet, iv. 58. 
 
 Hammond's "Love Eligies," v. 213. 
 
 Hampstead, Mrs., J.'s lodgings at, i. 
 131. 
 
 Hamner, Sir Thomas, his edition of 
 Shakespeare, i. 93 ; epitaph on, i. 
 94 ; ii. 24. 
 
 Happiness, ii. 13 ; iii. 108, 134, 194 ; 
 Pope's remark on, ii. 225 ; not to 
 be found in this life, v. 140 ; in a 
 cottage considered, v. 233. 
 
 Hardy knute. Ballad of, ii. 61. 
 
 Harleian Miscellany, J.'s preface to, 
 i. 93. 
 
 Harrington, Dr., " Nugse Antique, 
 iv. 128.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 345 
 
 Harris, Mr., of Salisbury, iii. 173; 
 v. 301. 
 
 Harrison, Elizabeth, her "Miscel- 
 lanies," i. 176. 
 
 Harte, Dr., " Gustavus Adolphus," 
 ii. 81 ; his excessive vanity, iv. 61. 
 
 Harwich, J. accompanies Boswell to, 
 i. 270-4. 
 
 Harwood, Dr., iii. 23. 
 
 Hastings, Warren, J.'s correspondence 
 with, iv. 52-6. 
 
 Hastie, the schoolmaster, prosecuted, 
 ii. 120 ; J.'s argument in favour of, 
 ii. 120-2. 
 
 Hawkesworth, Dr., i. 94 ; happy imi- 
 tations of J.'s style, i. 138. 
 
 Hawthornden, v. 318. 
 
 Hay's Martial, v. 293. 
 
 Hay, Lord Charles, iii. 6; Court- 
 martial on, iv. 23. 
 
 Heberden, Dr., iv. 238. 
 
 Hebrides, ii. 173, Journey to, pub- 
 lished, ii. 195 ; origin of J.'s ex- 
 pedition to, v. 1. 
 
 Hector, Mr., i. 35, 40, 82 ; ii. 292, 
 294; iv. 101, 254; letters from J. 
 to, iv. 107, 256. 
 
 Heeley, Mr., iv. 249 ; letters from 
 J. to, iv. 250. 
 
 Hell, Virgil's description of entrance 
 to, v. 247. 
 
 Henderson, Mr. John, iv. 203. 
 
 Henry, Dr. Robert, History of Bri- 
 tain, iii. 224. 
 
 Hereditary right, iii. 104. 
 
 Hervey, Hon. Henry, i. 50. ; Hon. 
 F.,ii.28; " Her vey's Meditations," 
 v. 279. 
 
 Hetherington's Charity, Miss "Wil- 
 liams' petitions for, ii. 185. 
 
 " High life below Stairs," iv. 13. 
 
 Highland hut, description of, v. 98 ; 
 roads, v. 96 ; forest, v. 188 ; tradi- 
 tion relative to two houses, v. 341 ; 
 roads, formation of, v. 96. 
 
 Hill, Dr., ii. 32 ; v. 42. 
 
 History, remarks on, ii. 234 ; v. 54 ; 
 of England, v. 369. 
 
 Historians, ii. 126. 
 
 Hodge, J.'s cat, iv. 136. 
 
 Hogarth, his first interview with J., 
 i. 74. 
 
 Holbrooke, Mr., i. 8. 
 
 Hollis, Mr. Thomas, iv. 72. 
 
 Home, John, parody by, i. 263 ; his 
 
 tragedy of " Douglas," iii. 51 ; v. 
 287. 
 
 Homer, i. 14 ; v. 53 ; antiquity of, 
 iii. 222 ; compared with Virgil, iii. 
 129, 224 ; J.'s veneration for, ii. 
 86 ; v. 128 ; opinions respecting, 
 v. 53; Pope's "Homer," iii. 174. 
 
 Honesty, iv. 154. 
 
 Hooke, Mr., and Duchess of Marl- 
 borough, v. 136. 
 
 Hoole, Mr., his " Cleonice," ii. 187 ; 
 iv. 132, 276; letter from J. to, iv. 
 242 ; evening with, iv. 192. 
 Hope, Dr., iv. 181 ; v. 319. 
 . Horace, i. 120, 121 ; ii. 231 ; iii. 169, 
 240 ; quotations from, ii. 226 ; v. 
 140 ; Francis's "Horace," iii. 241 ; 
 translations of, i. 13 ; J. repeats 
 ode of, v. 126 ; Bentley and Jason 
 de Nore's comments on, ii. 285 ; 
 " Art of Poetry," iii. 176. 
 
 Home, Bishop, ii. 285 ; Rev. Mr., 
 his letter on the English particle, 
 iii. 239. 
 
 Hospitality, remarks on, iv. 20, 141, 
 153 ; ancient, ii. 110. 
 
 House of Commons, talents required 
 in, v. 214, 
 
 Houses, subterranean, v. 131, 187. 
 
 Households, large, iii. 212. 
 
 Howard, Mr., i. 31 ; iii. 151. 
 
 Hoy, Mr. James, Gordon Castle, 
 v. 81. 
 
 Huddesford, Dr., Vice-chancellor of 
 Oxford, letter to, i. 158, 159. 
 
 Huggins, translator of "Ariosto," 
 iv. 12. 
 
 Humanity, instance of J.'s, iv. 218. 
 
 Hume, David, i. 253, 256 ; ii. 13 ; 
 v. 13; his political principles, iv. 
 135 ; Dr. A. Smith's panegyrical 
 letter upon, v. 14. 
 
 Humphrey, Ozias, letter from J. to, 
 iv. 184. 
 
 Hunter, Mr., i. 8, 9. 
 
 Hunting, French, v. 200. 
 
 Hurd, Bishop, iv. 133, 198. 
 
 Hussey, Rev. Mr., letter from J. to, 
 iii. 249. 
 
 Hutchison, "William, remarkable ho- 
 nesty of, v. 74. 
 
 Hypochondria, " The English Mala- 
 dy," i. 22 ; Professor Gaubin's dis- 
 tinction between, and madness, 
 i. 22.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ICELAND, natural history of, iii. 188. 
 " Idler," i. 187-9. 
 Idleness, i. 248, 270. 
 Impartiality, Historical, v. 202. 
 Impostor, pretended brother of J., v. 
 
 235, 
 
 Inch Keith, island of, v. 35, 
 Inchkenneth, ii. 172, 
 India, government of, iv, 149, 
 Indian Judges, ii. 221, 
 Infidelity, ii. 12; iv. 197; v. 130 ; 
 
 conjugal, ii. 42 ; iii, 272, 
 Infidels, ii. 231; modern, v. 263; 
 
 writings, increase of, v. 216 
 Ingratitude, false story of J.'s, iii. 130, 
 Inns, J.'s love of, ii. 288; Shenstone's 
 
 lines on, ii. 289. 
 Innovation, remarks on, iv. 133. 
 Inquisition, J. defends, i. 271. 
 Interest, landed and trading, com- 
 pared, v. 184. 
 Inverary, ii. 172; v. 276; Castle, v. 
 
 93. 
 Inverness, ii. 172 ; v. 92 ; English 
 
 chapel at, v. 93. 
 lona, ii. 172; v. 268. 
 Ireland, J.'s aversion to visit, iii. 
 
 274 ; and the Irish, ii. 164; Union 
 
 with, iii. 274. 
 "Irene," tragedy of, i. 46, 51, 52, 53, 
 
 78 ; performed at Drury Lane, i. 
 
 96 ; ill success of, i. 106, 107 ; J.'s 
 
 dress on the occasion, i. 108; 
 
 manuscript copy of, i. 51 ; extracts 
 
 from, i. 52. 
 Isa, island of, v. 197. 
 Islands, prisons, a song, v. 202. 
 Italy, iii. 21 ; proposal that J. should 
 
 visit, iv. 221, 225. 
 
 JACOBITISM, i 249. 
 
 Jackson, " The all-knowing," iii. 12. 
 
 James, Dr., iii. 14. 
 
 , death of, iii. 3. 
 
 , " Medicinal Dictionary," 
 
 i. 83. 
 
 Jennings, Mr., iii. 155. 
 Jenyns Soame, iii. 189. 
 , J.'s controversy with, 
 
 i. 178. 
 Johnson, Michael, father of Samuel, 
 
 i. 2, 3, 6, 18,30. 
 , Mrs., his mother, i. 3, 7, 
 
 23, 84, 192, 194, 195. 
 , Nathaniel, i. 37. 
 
 Johnson, Rev. Samuel, Curate of 
 St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, i. 
 
 , Mrs., his wife, i. 40, 41, 
 
 42,51, 114, 130, 132. 
 , death of, i. 129. 
 
 JOHNSON, SAMUEL 
 
 1709. Born at Lichfield, i. 1. 
 
 1712. Early religious impressions 
 from his mother, i. 3 ; anecdotes 
 of his precocity, i. 4 ; inherits 
 his father's disease, i. 6 ; touched 
 by Queen Anne, i. 7. 
 
 1719. Sent to Lichfield School, i. 7. 
 
 1724. Removed to Stourbridge 
 School, i. 11 ; poetical transla- 
 tions, i. 12-17. 
 
 1727. Leaves Stourbridge, i. 17; 
 two years at home, his pursuits 
 during- that time, i. 18. 
 
 1728. Entered at Pembroke Col- 
 lege, Oxford, i. 18 ; incidents of 
 college life, i. 19, 26-29; trans- 
 lates Pope's " Messiah," i. 20. 
 
 1729 .Morbid melancholy increases, 
 i. 21 ; religious impressions, i. 23. 
 
 1731. Leaves Oxford, i. 30 ; death 
 of his father, i. 30. 
 
 1733. Goes to Birmingham, em- 
 ployment there, i. 34 ; trans- 
 lates Lobo's " Abyssinia," i. 35. 
 
 1 736. Marries, and opens academy 
 at Edial, i. 41-43; commences 
 tragedy of " Irene," i. 46. 
 
 1737. Goes to London with Gar- 
 rick, i. 47 ; retires to Green- 
 wich, i. 50 ; returns to Lichfield 
 and publishes " Irene," i. 51 ; 
 removes back to London with 
 Mrs. J., i. 54. 
 
 1738. First contribution to " Gen- 
 tleman's Magazine," i. 55 ; re- 
 ports parliamentary debates in, 
 i. 57 ; publishes poem of " Lon- 
 don," i. 62. 
 
 1739. Publishes " Marmor Wor- 
 folcieuse," i. 72. 
 
 1743. Embarrassed circumstances, 
 i.84. 
 
 1744. Publishes " Life of Richard 
 Savage," i. 85. 
 
 1747. Publishes plan of " Dic- 
 tionary," i. 97. 
 
 1748. Institutes club in Ivy Lane, 
 i 102 ; visits Tunbridge Wells, 
 i. 102.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 347 
 
 1749. Publishes "Vanity of Hu- 
 man Wishes," i. 103; "Irene" 
 performed at Drury Lane, i. 106. 
 
 1750. Commences " Rambler," i. 
 110. 
 
 1752. Close of " Rambler," i. 123 ; 
 
 death of Mrs. J., i. 129; visits 
 
 Oxford, i. 136. 
 1758. Writes in " Adventurer," 
 
 i. 138. 
 
 1754. Writes " Life of Cave," i. 
 142 ; engaged with " Diction- 
 ary," i. 142. 
 
 1755. Receives A.M. degree, 1. 
 158 ; ' Dictionary" published, 
 i. 165. 
 
 1758. Commences " Idler," i. 187. 
 
 1759. Death of mother, i. 192 ; 
 publishes " Rasselas," i. 1 94. 
 
 1762. Obtains pension from George 
 III., i. 213; visits Devonshire 
 with Sir J. Reynolds, i. 215. 
 
 1763. First interview with Bos- 
 well, i. 225 ; accompanies Bos- 
 well to Harwich, i. 270. 
 
 1764. Visits the Lang-ton family, 
 i. 277. 
 
 1 765 . Makes an excursion to Cam- 
 bridge with Beauclerk, i. 283 ; 
 degree of LL.D. conferred by 
 University of Dublin, i. 284 ; en- 
 g-ag'ement with Gerard Hamil- 
 ton, i. 284 j introduction to 
 Thrale family, i. 285 ; publishes 
 edition of "Shakspeare,"i. 289. 
 
 1767. Interview with George III., 
 ii. 30 ; visits Lichfield. ii. 35. 
 
 1768. Visits Oxford, ii. 37. 
 
 1769. Appointed Professor of An- 
 cient Literature, ii. 50. 
 
 1770. Publishes " False Alarm," 
 ii. 76. 
 
 1771. Attempt to bring- J. into 
 Parliament, ii. 92 ; visits Lich- 
 field and Ashbourne, ii. 94. 
 
 1773. Publishes new editions of 
 " Dictionary" and " Shak- 
 speare,"ii. 134 ; sets out on Tour 
 to the Hebrides, ii. ] 73 ; writes 
 account of Tour, ii. 176. 
 
 1774. Visits Wales with Mr. and 
 Mrs. Thrale, ii. 185. 
 
 1775. Receives degree of LL.D. 
 from University of Oxford, ii. 
 214. 
 
 1776 Visits Bath and Bristol with 
 the Thrales, iii. 26 ; visits Brigh- 
 ton, iii. 60. 
 
 1777. Goes on provincial tour, iii. 
 91. 
 
 1778. Meets with Edwards, an old 
 college fellow, iii. 203. 
 
 1779. Publishes first four vols. ot 
 " Lives of the Poets," iii. 250. 
 
 1781. Completes " Lives of the 
 Poets," iv. 31 ; provincial tour, 
 iv. 100. 
 
 1782. Constitutional disease in- 
 creases, iv. 101 ; Mrs. Thrale's 
 coolness to Johnson, iv. 115. 
 
 1783. Paralytic stroke, iv. 156; 
 institutes Essex Head Club. iv. 
 174 ; increased illness, iv. 175. 
 
 1784. Visits Oxford, iv. 194; pro- 
 poses to go to a warmer climate, 
 iv. 225, 234 ; last provincial 
 tour, iv. 237 ; last illness and 
 death, iv. 271-282. 
 
 Character, habits, personal appear- 
 ance, Sfc, 
 
 Defective sight, i. 6 ; quickness of 
 observation, i. 6 ; indolence i. 9, 
 85, 180, 268, 280 ; iii. 292 ; iv. 14. 
 Retentive memory, i 10, 146. 
 Early love of romance, i. 11. 
 Early poetical genius, i. 12, 20. 
 Morbid melancholy, i 21 , 22, 23, 
 168, 196, 280 ; iii. 62 ; iv. 206. 
 Irregular mode of study, i. 17, 
 24. Pride i. 28, 147. Manners, 
 132,44,74,75, 161,227,281; 
 ii. 15 ; iii. 32, 102, 192, 241 ; iv. 
 183, 202, 215. Personal appear- 
 ance, i. 40, 73, 135, 228 ; iv. 
 220, 289 ; v. 4. Rapidity of 
 composition, i. 88, 103, 110, 
 188, 195; ii. 17; v. 45. Polite- 
 ness, i. 32 ; iii. 108 ; iv. 64, 93, 
 192. Love of chemistry, i. 71 ; ii. 
 103; iv. 162. Love of conviviality 
 and pleasures of the table, i. 1.36 ; 
 iii. 43, 124,192,224; iv. 68, 195, 
 223; v.42. Love of young people, 
 i. 257. Love of London life, i. 
 266 ; iv. 254. Love of Oxford, 
 i. 26 ; ii. 40, 122. Love of con- 
 tradiction, iii. 40, 210, 233 ; iv. 
 83 ; v. 56. Gratitude, i. 93 ; iv. 
 226, 227. Jucobite prejudices,
 
 348 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 i. 72, 74, 93, 168, 249; ii. 220 ; 
 iv. 118. Envy of Garrick, i. 88, 
 226; ii. 125. Tenderness of con- 
 science, i. 77- Prejudice against 
 actors, i. 88, 108 ; iii. 123 ; iv. 
 14. Moral and religious princi- 
 ples, i. 23, 148, 170; ii. 12, 
 115 ; iv. 281. Affection for his 
 mother, i. 84. Love for his wife, 
 i. 129; iii. 205. Unfitness for 
 tragedy writing, i. 108. Conver- 
 sational powers, i. 74, 111, 135, 
 243; iv. 83, 86, 130, 131, 161. 
 Deference to public opinion, i. 
 108; iv. 29. Excellence as a 
 biographer, i. 142. Hatred of 
 Whigs and their principles, i. 
 249 ; ii. 112, 143, 285 ; iv. 66, 
 133, 153. Hatred of Infidel 
 principles, i. 256 ; ii. 12, 14, 57, 
 63 ; iii. 33, 185, 203, 268, 278. 
 Respect for authority and rank, 
 i. 142, 175, 253, 258; ii. 16, 
 102, 144,167; iii. 32, 126,176, 
 239, 273; v. 73. Superstition, 
 i. 234; Si. 14, 116, 206; iii. 
 199, 236 ; iv. 70. Regard to 
 truth, i. 252 ; ii. 280 ; iii. 154, 
 197 ; iv. 121. Liberality in pe- 
 cuniary matters, i. 283. Dread 
 of death, ii. 62, 71, 194 ; iii. 
 197 ; iv. 178, 179, 185, 203, 268, 
 278. Toleration, i. 233 ; ii. 69, 
 70, 71, 166; iii. 126; iv. 188. 
 Respect for the clergy, ii. 112 ; 
 iv. 59, 67, 138, 188. Reverence 
 for sacred subjects, ii. 131. Habit 
 of contracting 1 friends' names, ii. 
 166. Remarkable laugh, ii. 168, 
 241 ; iii. 176. Personal courage, 
 ii. 194. Benevolence, ii. 209 ; 
 iii. 16, 81, 248, 279, 296, 297; 
 iv. 98, 134, 140, 218, 231. Habit 
 of using- strong expressions, iii. 
 1, 195, 199, 211. Devotion, i. 
 129, 138, 141, 273, 280, 283 ; 
 ii. 124, 138; iv. 186. Know- 
 ledge of the world, iii. 12 ; of 
 law, iii. 14 ; of physic, iii. 14, 
 102. Generosity, iii. 151. Taci- 
 turnity, iii. 207 ; v. 49. Style 
 of dress i. 108 ; iii. 218 ; v. 5. 
 Violence of temper, iii. 34, 50, 
 138, 180, 183, 195, 199, 211, 
 223, 227, 234, 237 ; iv. 70, 74, 
 
 120, 122; v. 110. Irritability 
 of temper, i. 226 ; ii. 72 ; iii. 
 180; iv. 121, 123, 188, 193, 
 Vigour of mind in old age, iv. 
 22, 173, 175. Vanity, iv. 130. 
 Regard for literature, iv. 26, 29, 
 Extraordinary way of walking, 
 iv. 57. Appearance on horse- 
 back, v. 98. Readiness at retort, 
 iv. 131. Candour, iv. 163, 217. 
 Opinions on education, i. 9 ; ii. 
 12, 120, 123, 233, 262 ; iii. 8, 
 114, 259; v. 68; on friend- 
 ship, i. 169; on marriage, i. 
 218 ; ii. 54, 73, 109, 213, 292. 
 294, 303 ; iii. 3, 254 ; iv. 97 ; 
 on political economy, ii. 67 ; 
 on future state, ii. 108; iii. 
 135 ; on duelling, ii. 117. 
 Contempt for belief in influence 
 of the weather, i. 188, 247, 260. 
 Contempt for rhetorical gesture, 
 i. 189; ii. 137; for ballad 
 poetry, ii. 138 ; for punning, 
 ii. 155 ; for tragic acting, v. 19; 
 for foreigners, i. 63 ; iv. ) 7. 
 Dislike to swearing, iii. 126 ; of 
 a sailor's life, iii. 179; of being 
 thought old, iii. 204, 206, 226 ; 
 iv. 128 ; of literary superiority, 
 iv. 83. Prejudice against Scot- 
 land and the Scotch, i. 64, 148, 
 
 225, 242, 246 ; ii. 40, 53, 55, 
 82, 98, 112, 203,217, 233, 242, 
 278 ; iii. 47, 101, 114, 167, 176, 
 
 226, 235 ; iv. 73, 76, 98, 120, 
 131 ; v. 6, 22, 24, 59. Pre- 
 judice against Americans, iii. 
 42, 125, 136, 138, 195, 211, 
 292. 
 
 " Johnsoniana," ii. 279 ; iii. 219. 
 Jordan, Mr., J's. tutor at Pembroke 
 
 College, i. 18, 19, 20. 
 Journal des Savans, ii. 34. 
 , keeping a, iv. 126. 
 
 Junius, iii. 254 ; iv. 207. 
 Juvenal, J's. translations of Satires, 
 i. 103. 
 
 KAME8,lord (Henry Home),ii. 41 ; v. 
 292; his "History of Man," iii. 228; 
 his " Elements of Criticism" prais- 
 ed, i. 226; ii. 61. 
 
 Keddlestone, seat of Lord Scarsdale, 
 iii. 107-9.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 349 
 
 Kelly, Hugh, " Word to the Wise," 
 iii. 74. 
 
 Kempis, Thomas a, editions of, iv. 
 190. 
 
 Ken, Bishop, his early rising-, iii. 113. 
 
 Kennedy, Rev. Dr., system of astro- 
 nomical chronology, i. 210. 
 
 Kennicot's Hebrew Bible, v. 24; Mrs. 
 ir. 197. 
 
 Kenrick, Mr. W., his attack on J.'s 
 edition of Sbakspeare, i. 289. 
 
 , Dr., pamphlet attacking- J., 
 
 ii. 45. 
 
 Kettel Hall, Oxford, i. 150. 
 
 Kilda, St., Rev. K. Macaulay's ac- 
 count of, ii. 40, 101 ; v. 85, 220. 
 
 King-, Dr., Principal of St. Mary's, 
 Oxford, i. 159. 
 
 Kings, flattery of, ii. 151. 
 
 Kingsburgh, v. 142. 
 
 Kippis, Dr., iii. 117; v. 60. 
 
 Kneller, Sir Godfrey, anecdote of, iii. 
 159. 
 
 Knotting-, J.'s opinion of, iv. 194. 
 
 Knowles, Mrs., the Quakeress, iii. 48, 
 191,193, 195,201. 
 
 Knowledge, all valuable, ii. 230. 
 
 Knox, Mr., opinion of J.'s "Tour to 
 the Hebrides," ii. 197. 
 
 , John, v. 40. 
 
 LABOUR, dangerous to increase the 
 price of, v. 210. 
 
 Ladies, influence of their society, iv. 
 58. 
 
 Lake in Rasay, strange leg-end con- 
 cerning-, v. 132. 
 
 Landlords and tenants, v. 234. 
 
 Lang-ton Bennet, i. 135 ; dinners at 
 house of, iii, 188, 227 ; chang-e in 
 circumstances of, iii. 224 ; his notes 
 of J.'s conversation, iv. 30; visited 
 by J. at Rochester, iv. 159; J.'s 
 high esteem for, iii. 109; letters 
 from J. to, i. 163, 183, 190-1, 205; 
 ii. 17-18, 36, 91, 95, 99, 182,232, 
 241 ; iii. 81, 246; iv. 98, 106, 165, 
 182, 236, 243; J. visits family of, in 
 Lincolnshire, i. 277. 
 
 , Peregrine, hia remarkable 
 
 economy, ii. 18. 
 
 , Miss Jane, J.'s godchild, 
 letter to, iv. 186. 
 
 Languages, ii. 105 ; connexion be- 
 tween, iii. 158 ; origin of, iv. 143 ; 
 
 the pedigree of nations, v. 117; the 
 Celtic, v. 195 ; the poets preserve 
 languages, iii. 21. 
 
 Lapouchin, Madame, sufferings of,iii. 
 229. 
 
 Latin, spoken by J. to foreigners, ii. 
 259, 261 ; inscriptions, iv. 15 ; 
 graces, v. 43. 
 
 Latrobe, Rev. Mr., a Moravian min- 
 ister, iv. 278. 
 
 Law and lawyers, opinions on, ii. 13, 
 21,37, 152,278; v. 11, 59. Ar- 
 guments on points of Scotch law 
 by J. ; on vicious intromission, ii. 
 127; on church patronage, 156; on 
 entails, 266 ; on the liberty of the 
 pulpit, iii. 35 ; on the registration 
 of deeds, iv. 58 ; on libels, 95. 
 
 Lawrencekirk, village of, v. 51. 
 
 Lawrence, Dr. Thomas, iii. 14; let- 
 ters to, ii. 193; iii. 280; iv. 
 105-6. 
 
 Law's " Serious Call to a Holy Life" 
 set J. to think earnestly of religion, 
 i. 23. 
 
 Laziness, v. 183. 
 
 Learning, iv. 16; v. 38, 54; general 
 diffusion of, iv. 151. 
 
 Lectures, on instruction by, iv. 69. 
 
 Lee, Arthur, an American patriot, 
 iii. 42. 
 
 , Alderman, London, meets J., 
 
 iii. 48. 
 
 Leeds, doggrel verses on Duke of, 
 iv. 17. 
 
 Legitimation by marriage, Scots' law, 
 ii. 291. 
 
 Leibnitz, his work on languages, ii. 
 104; dispute on, v. 227. 
 
 Leith, not Lethe, \. 34. 
 
 Leland, Dr. Thomas, Dublin, J.'s let- 
 ter to on his diploma, i. 284 ; his 
 " History of Ireland," iii. 73. 
 
 Lennox, Mrs., her " Shakspeare Illus- 
 trated," i. 141 ; her works, it 188; 
 compliment to, iv. 188. 
 
 Leonidas, Glover's poem of, v. 82. 
 
 Letter-writing, fashion of publishing 
 letters, ir. 76 ; mode of ending, v. 
 189. 
 
 Levett, Robert, account of, i. 138-5; 
 letters to, ii. 182, 245 ; iii. 58; his 
 death, iv. 10 J ; verses on, 102. 
 -, Mr., Lich field, letter to, on in 
 
 terest of debt, L 84.
 
 3ro 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Lewis, Rev. Francis, translates mot- 
 toes to " Rambler," i. 124. 
 Liberty, popular, J.'s contempt for, 
 ii. 45 ; iii. 258 ; of conscience, 161 ; 
 of the press, iii. 9. 
 
 Uchfield, J.'s birthplace, i. 8, 14. 30; 
 ii. 294; iii. 275 ; iv. 100, 251 ; bust 
 of J. in cathedral, iv. 286. 
 Life, human, remarks on, iii. 226 ; iv. 
 204; 011 success in, iv. 122; on 
 savage, iv. 210. 
 Lilliburlero, ballad of, ii. 233. 
 Lindley, Miss, an eminent singer, 
 
 marries R. B. Sheridan, ii 236. 
 Linen, cleaner than wool or silk, v. 
 
 170. 
 Liquors, J.'s estimate of different, iii. 
 
 256 ; iv. 62. 
 
 Literary labour, small remuneration 
 of, i. 104; advantages of literary 
 life, iv. 73 ; instructions for writing 1 
 lives of literary men, v. 190; lite- 
 rary property, v. 32, 38 ; literary 
 men shewing- theirwri tings, iii. 215. 
 
 Magazine, J. a contributor to, 
 
 i. 174. 
 Literature, anecdote of J.'s respect 
 
 for, iii. 209 ; French, v. 181. 
 Lives of the Poets, J.'s, iv 31 ; in- 
 cidents connected with, 32 ; criti- 
 cisms and attacks on, 51 ; new edi- 
 tion of, 114. 
 Lloyd, Olivia, J.'s affection for, i. 39. 
 
 , Mrs., godmother to Savage 
 
 the poet, i. 91. 
 Lichbuy, J.'s visit to, v. 270. 
 L.ochlomond, ii. 173; iii. 257. 
 Loch Ness, beautiful drive along, v. 
 
 98. 
 Locke, John, the philosopher, Latin 
 
 verses by, v. 64. 
 
 London, the great field of genius and 
 exertion, i 47, 244 ; iii. 4 ; life in, 
 i. 49 ; ii. 53 ; iii. 255 ; iv. 254 ; size 
 and increase of, ii. 229 ; iv. 1 46 ; 
 state of poor in, iii. 269 ; cheap 
 living in, v 183; persons of conse- 
 quence watched in, v. 1 96 ; com- 
 pared with Pekin, v. 242; J 's re- 
 sidences in, i. 54, 99 ; iii 272 ; J.'s 
 poem of " London," i. 58-65. 
 Chronicle, an evening news- 
 paper, i. 179. 
 
 Long, Mr. Dudley (North), his cha- 
 racter, iv. 63. 
 
 Longley, Mr., of Rochester, his learn- 
 ing, iv. 14. 
 
 Loudon, Countess of (daughter of Earl 
 Stair), iii. 247 ; v. 296. 
 
 , Earl of, entertains J. in Ayr- 
 
 shire, v. 296. 
 
 Loug-hborough, Lord (Wedderburne), 
 iii. 2. 
 
 Lovat, Simon, Lord, verses on his exe- 
 cution, i. 126 ; assists in abduction 
 of Lady Grange, v. 181 ; erects 
 memorial in Skye to his father, v. 
 186 ; boasts of his clan, v. 314. 
 
 Lowe, Mauritius, a painter, J. kind 
 to, iii. 296; iv. 139; his picture of 
 the Deluge, iv. 140. 
 
 Lowth, Bishop, his controversy with 
 Warburton, ii. 33 ; v. 89 ; his learn- 
 ing, v. 55. 
 
 Lowther, noble family of, v. 79. 
 
 Loyola, Ignatius, founder of the Je- 
 suits, i. 28. 
 
 Loyalty of Highlanders, v. 160. 
 
 Lucan, Lord and Lady, their atten- 
 tion to J., iv 220. 
 
 Luke, Gospel of St., remarks on chap, 
 vii ver. 50, iv. 12. 
 
 Lutterel, Col., rival of Wilkes, ii. 76. 
 
 Luxury, remarks on, ii. 141 ; iii. 33, 
 190, 196. 
 
 Lydiat, Thomas, his history, i. 104. 
 
 Lyttelton, George, Lord, his anxiety 
 as an author, iii. 20 ; his " Dia- 
 logues," ii. 84 ; caricature of, v. ; 
 his " History of Henry the Second," 
 ii. 33. 
 
 , Thomas, second Lord, his 
 
 remarkable vision, iv. 203. 
 
 MACALLAN, Eupham, areputed witch, 
 v. 20. 
 
 Macaulay, Mrs. Catherine, a great 
 republican, L 258 ; her remarks 
 on J.'s political principles, ii. 143 ; 
 J. severe upon, 217 ; J. does not 
 wish to be pitted against her, iii. 
 124. 
 
 , Rev. Kenneth, Minister of 
 
 Calder, Naimshire, his " History 
 of St. Kilda," ii. 40, 102 ; visited by 
 J. at Calder, v. 83 ; his daiin to au- 
 thorship of " History of St. Kilda" 
 disputed, 84 ; and affirmed, 220 ; J. 
 promises his son a Servitorship at 
 Oxford, 87.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 351 
 
 Macaulay, Rev. John, Minister of In- 
 verary, v. 285. 
 
 , Mr. T. Babington, v. 92, 
 
 185. 
 
 Macbean, brothers, amanuenses to. I., 
 i. 99. 
 
 , Mr., author of " Dictionary 
 
 of Geography," iii. 16, 297. 
 
 Macbeth, v. 94 ; observations on tra- 
 gedy, i. 94 ; the " Blasted Heath," 
 v. 81. 
 
 Maccaronic verses, origin of, iii. 191. 
 
 Macclesfield, Countess. of, i. 89-93. 
 
 Macdonald, Sir James, a young Chief 
 of distinguished merit, i. 259; 
 Epitaph on, by Lord Lyttelton, v. 
 115 , his last letter to his mother, 
 v. 116; bond to Kingsburgh, 204. 
 
 , Sir Alexander, afterwards 
 
 Lord Macdonald, ii. 104, 114; 
 visited by J. at Armidale, v. 112; 
 his parsimony and want of spirit, 
 v. 113, 115. 124,221. 
 
 , Lady Margaret, her great 
 
 popularity in Skye, iii. 257 ; v. 
 116, 207; assists Prince Charles 
 Edward in his escape, v. 146. 
 
 , Flora, v. 142-146, 157. 
 
 , Allan (husband of Flora), 
 
 v. 142. 
 
 , Alexander, old Kings- 
 burgh, v. 143, 146-7, 204, 206-7. 
 
 Mackenzie, Sir George, his works, v. 
 167. 
 
 , Henry, his " Man of Feel- 
 ing," i. 207 ; his " Life of Black- 
 lock," v. 28 ; his " Man of the 
 World," v. 219. 
 
 , Roderick, a chivalrous 
 
 young Jacobite, v. 207. 
 
 Mackinnon, Laird of, assists in escape 
 of Charles Edward, v. 155. 
 
 family of, at Corricha- 
 
 tachin, hospitably entertain J., v. 
 1 19 ; account of, 123 ; entertain J. 
 a second time, 204 ; Boswell's ex- 
 cess of drinking at, 205. 
 
 Maclaine, John, Laird of Lochbuy, 
 entertains J., v. 270 ; his curious 
 mistake about J., 271 ; his sou kill- 
 ed in a duel, 272. 
 
 Maclaurin, Colin, the Mathematician, 
 his epitaph, v. 31. 
 
 , John, Lord Dreghorn, ii. 
 
 233; v. 31,217. 
 
 Maclean, Donald, young Laird of 
 Coll, v. 198, 201 ; plans an ex- 
 pedition for J. and acts as leader, 
 203; their danger at sea, 222; en- 
 tertains J. at island of Coll, 231 ; 
 they sail for Mull, 245 ; his charac- 
 ter and merits, 262 ; his death, 262. 
 
 , Sir Allan, and his daugh- 
 ters, visited at Inchkenneth by J., 
 v. 256; accompanies him to lona, 
 268 ; reverence for his feudal power 
 as chief, 267. 
 
 , Capt. Lachlan, Coll, en- 
 tertains J., v. 225. 
 
 , Rev. Hector, Coll, disputes 
 
 with J., v 227. 
 
 , Mr. a young student at 
 
 Coll, v. 239. 
 
 , Dr Alexander, Tobermory, 
 
 v. 246; his accomplished daughter, 
 v. 249. 
 
 Macleod, John, of Rasay, entertains 
 J., v. 128 ; league between family 
 of and Macdonalds, 135; ball and 
 gaiety at Rasay, 138. 
 
 , Malcolm of the Forty- five, 
 
 v. 125. 
 
 of Macleod, the young chief, 
 
 v 136 ; account of, 137 ; entertains 
 J. at Dunvegan, 162; surrounded 
 by many of his clan, 166; accom- 
 panies J. to Ulinish, 186; his af- 
 fection for his clan, 198. 
 
 , Lady, Mother ofthe Laird, 
 
 v. 163-4. 
 
 , Sir Roderick, " Rorie 
 
 More," v. 163 ; his famous drink- 
 ing-horn, 166. 
 
 John Breck Macleod, a 
 
 chief, v. 185. 
 
 Colonel, of Talisker, v. 
 
 128, 157, 170, 175 ; entertains J., 
 
 198 ; anecdote of, 201. 
 , Mr. of Ulinish, Sheriff of 
 
 Skye, entertains J., v. 187 96. 
 
 , Professor, Aberdeen, v. 66. 
 
 , Alexander, of Muiraven- 
 
 side, his Jacobite mission to Skye, 
 
 &c. v. 128. 
 
 -, Rev. Neil, Mull, entertains 
 
 J., account of, v. 268. 
 
 Maclure. Captain of tha 
 
 ' Bonetta," v. 253. 
 
 Macpherson, James, translator of 
 
 "Ossian," threatens J., ii. 193;
 
 352 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 J.'s celebrated letter to, 194; leaves 
 the originals of his translation in 
 Beckit the bookseller's, v. 65 ; 
 letter to by Sir A. Macdonald, v. 
 113. (SeeOssian.) 
 Macpherson, Dr. John, Skye, his 
 " Dissertations," v. 122, 162. 
 
 , Rev. Martin (his son), 
 
 v. 122. 
 Macquarrie, Laird of, visited at Ulva 
 
 by J., v. 253 ; account of, 254. 
 Macqueen, Rev. Donald, minister of 
 Kilmuir in Skye, v. 1 14, 124, 141 ; 
 his antiquarian zeal, 172-4 ; his 
 dispute with J. concerning 1 " Os- 
 sian," 190-3; J.'s reg'ard for, his 
 death and funeral, 203-4. 
 
 , Lachlaji, innkeeper at 
 
 Anock, Glenmoriston, and his 
 daughter, account of, v. 101-3. 
 Macraes, the clan of that name, v. 
 107 ; J. distributes money among 1 , 
 108. 
 
 Macsweyn, Mr, island of Coll, his 
 descent, v. 228 ; his wife had never 
 crossed to the mainland, 242. 
 Madden, Dr. Samuel, eng-ages J. to 
 
 revise his poem, i. 180. 
 Madness, various kinds of, i. 228 ; 
 
 iii. 118; iv. 28. 
 Maittaire, Michael, and his works, 
 
 iv. 10. 
 
 Mallet, David, his edition of Boling- 
 broke's works, i. 148; anecdote of, 
 v. 134. 
 Malthe, Chevalier de, anecdote of, v. 
 
 73. 
 
 Man, J's. gloomy estimate of, ii. 225; 
 definitions of, v. 16 ; not naturally 
 good, 66 ; difference between well- 
 bred and ill-bred, iv. 216 ; compa- 
 rative merits of Shakspeare and 
 Milton's portraits of, iv. 58. 
 
 , " Whole Duty of," author of 
 
 work so called unknown, ii. 154. 
 Mandeville, Bernard, fallacy of bis 
 doctrine that private vices are pub- 
 lic benefits, iii. 196. 
 Manners of high rank, iv. 123; change 
 of v. 38 ; value of history of, 54 ; 
 way of the great families of Wales, 
 218. 
 
 Mansfield, Lord, iL 105, 122, 126; 
 v. 66, 313 ; his house burned in 
 . therioteof 1780, iii. 286. 
 
 Marchmont, Earl of, one of Pope's 
 
 executors, iii. 232; J.'s visit to, 262; 
 
 his insinuation against, iv. 41. 
 Markham, Archdeacon, quoted and 
 
 eulogised, v. 18. 
 IV] arlborough, the great Duke of, 
 
 epigram on, ii, 288. 
 
 , Sarah, Duchess of, es- 
 
 say on her conduct by J., i. 78; v. 
 135. 
 
 Marriage, remarks on ii. 54, 67, 73, 
 109, 213, 294; the church mar- 
 riage service, ii. 75 ; the royal 
 marriage bill, ii. 103. 
 Martin's " Description of the Western 
 
 Isles," i. 259; v. 1. 
 Martinelli, Sig-nor, his History ot 
 
 England, ii.'l43. 
 Mary Queen of Scots, i. 202 ; v. 22 ; 
 
 inscription for print of, ii. 191. 
 Marylebone Gardens, J's. visit to, 
 
 iv. 219. 
 
 Massingham, Philosopher of, (Mr. 
 Bewley,) his veneration for J., iv. 
 99. 
 
 Massillon and Bourdaloue, v. 247. 
 Matthew, Gospel of St., on bodies of 
 
 Saints, iv. 71. 
 Mead, Dr. dedication of " James's 
 
 Med. Diet." to by J., i. 83. 
 Mediterranean, the, its historical in- 
 terest, iii. 21. 
 
 Melancholy, how to be diverted, i. 
 257 ; iii. 4 ; ii. 283. (See John- 
 son. 
 Melnoth, William, Mrs. Thrale's 
 
 opinion of, iii. 282. 
 Memory, should not fail at seventy, 
 
 iii. 128. 
 
 Mercheta mulierum, v. 254. 
 Metaphysical Tailor, the, iv. 132. 
 Metcalf, Philip, attentions to J., iv. 
 
 115. 
 Methodists, secret of their success, 
 
 i. 264; v. 311. 
 
 Mickle, translator of " Lusiad," iii. 
 22; his account of Johnson, iv. 
 171 ; visited by J., iv. 209. 
 Militia, Johnson drawn for, iv. 216; 
 
 .Scotch militia bill, iii. 1. 
 Millar, Andrew, one of the publishers 
 J.'s Dictionary, i. 97 ; saying of, 
 162. 
 
 Miller, Lady, her collection of verses, 
 ii. 217.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 353 
 
 Milton, the poet, ii. 154 ; iv. 21, 207; 
 his political principles, i. 124 ; iv. 
 36 ; his genius, i. 124 ; Lauder's 
 forgery, i. 1 26-8 ; J.'s alleged dis- 
 like of i. 127 ; life of, iv. 35-7. 
 Mimicry powers required for, ii. 
 
 102; Foote's, 103. 
 Mind, strength of, iii. 225 j features 
 
 of, iv225 
 Miracles, Hume's doctrine refuted, 
 
 i. 256; iii. 126. 
 
 Mitre Tavern, Fleet Street, a fa- 
 vourite resort of J.'s, i. 231 ; ii. 12 ; 
 iii. 230. 
 
 Monarchy, British, iii. 28 ; v. 158. 
 Monckton, Miss (Countess of Cork), 
 
 iv. 81. 
 
 Montagu, Mrs., her Essay on Shaks- 
 peare, ii. 60 ; v. 194; notices of, 
 iii. 28, 163, 282 ; iv. 188. 
 Montaigne, opinion of, censured, 
 
 i. 78. 
 Montrose, town of, v. 48. 
 
 Marquis of, letters from, to 
 
 Laird of Coll, v. 237. 
 Morality, laws to enforce, iii. 11. 
 More, Miss Hannah, iii. 173, 197; 
 
 iv. 71 ; 188. 
 Morgann, Mr. M., relates anecdotes 
 
 of J.,iv. 134. 
 Morris, Miss, receives J.'s dying 
 
 blessing, iv. 282. 
 Mortgage on J.'s pension proposed, 
 
 iv. 234. 
 
 Mounsey, Dr., ii. 47. 
 Muck, Isle of, v. 177-8. 
 Mudge, Rev. Zachariah, excellence 
 of his preaching, i. 216 ; J.'s cha- 
 racter of, iv. 60 ; his sermons, 
 iv. 73. 
 Mtirchison, Mr., factor for Macleod, 
 
 his kindness to J., v. 110. 
 Murder, prescription of in Scot's law, 
 
 v. 9. 
 Murison, Principal of St. Andrew's 
 
 College, v. 42. 
 
 Murphy, Arthur, his poetical epistle 
 to J.,i. 203 ; origin of J.'s acquain- 
 tance with, i. 2U4 ; his opinion of 
 Gray, iii. 19. 
 
 Musgrave, Dr. S., iii. 213. 
 Music, employs the mind without 
 thinking, v. 250 ; J.'s insensibility 
 to, iii. 134 ; part of our future 
 felicity, ii. 108. 
 
 Myddleton, Colonel, Denbigh, erects 
 
 urn to J., iv. 284. 
 Myrtle, J.'s verses on sprig of, i. 39. 
 
 NAIRN, town of, v. 83. 
 Nairne, Mr. (Lord Dunsinnan), iii. 
 24; v. 19,33. 
 
 Colonel, St. Andrew's, v. 46. 
 
 Names, iii. 47. 
 
 Necessity, eternal, refuted, v. 29. 
 
 Negro cause in Court of Session, iii. 
 
 142. 
 Newgate, fire at, iii. 290 ; fifteen men 
 
 executed at, iv. ---'. 
 Newhaven, Lord, iii -~ ; 5. 
 Newspapers, v. 291 ; paragraphs in, 
 
 iv. 188. 
 
 Newton, Bishop of Bristol, iv. 195. 
 Nichols, Dr., physician to the King, 
 
 ii. 228; iii. 110. 
 Mr J., the printer, iv. 23. 
 
 His remembrances of J.'s last days, 
 
 iv. 276. " Anecdotes," iv. 110. 
 
 Letter from J. to, iv. 248. 
 Nicol, Mr. G., letter from J. to, iv. 246. 
 " Night Thoughts," Young's, J.'s 
 
 opinion of, iv. 48. 
 Nonjurors, ii. 208; iv. 196. 
 North, Lord, ii. 98; v. 1'Jli. 
 Northumberland House, fire in, iii. 
 
 281. 
 November 5, strict observance of at 
 
 Pembroke College, i. 19-. 
 Nowell, Dr. Principal of St. Mary's 
 
 Hall, iv. 201. His sermon before 
 
 House of Commons, iv. 202. 
 
 OATH of abjuration discussed, ii. 142, 
 
 208 ; judicial, v. 310, 
 Oatc, J.'s definition of, i. 167 ; Lord 
 
 Elibank's happy retort, v. 321. 
 Obedience, religious, iii. 198. 
 Occupation, necessity of, iii. 121. 
 Odyssey, the, ite domestic character, 
 
 iv. 152 
 Ofellus, character in J.'s " Art of 
 
 Living," i. 49. 
 Ogden, Dr. Samuel, on prayer, v. 1 2, 
 
 45. 
 Ogilvie, Dr. J., his poems criticised, 
 
 L244. 
 Oglethorp, General, i. 63 ; ii. 22-5 ! 
 
 iii. 33 ; dinners at his house, ii. 
 
 117,143; iii. 190; imecdote of, ii. 
 
 118; visits J., iv. 121.
 
 354 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Old age, observations on, iii. 172, 
 226 ; iv. 128, 189 ; old men should 
 not put themselves to nurse, ii. 
 305. 
 
 Oldys, William, his curiosity and di- 
 lig-ence, i. 93. 
 
 Oliver, Dame, J.'s first instructress, 
 i. 7. 
 
 Omai, of the South- Sea Islands, iii. 6. 
 
 Opium, use of, iv. 121. 
 
 Orange peel, J 's collection of dried, 
 ii. 214 ; iv. 142. 
 
 Oratory, J. against action in, ii. 137 ; 
 not a test of a man's powers, 219 ; 
 J. " could not get on," ii. 92 ; v. 
 62. 
 
 Ord, Lord Chief Baron, Edinburgh, 
 v. 13. 
 
 Original sin, J.'s opinion concerning', 
 iv. 91. 
 
 Orme's " History of" Hindostan," va- 
 lue of, iii. 191. 
 
 Orrery, Earls of, v. 188, 190, 192. 
 
 Osborne, Francis, his works criti- 
 cised, ii. 125. 
 
 , Thomas, bookseller, J. beats, 
 
 i. 79. 
 
 Ossian's Peems, controversy concern- 
 ing their authenticity and merits, 
 ii. 190, 200, 223; iv. 104, 173; v. 
 26, 65 ; Mr. Macqueeu's opinion 
 of, v. 127, 190. 
 
 Othello, moral of, iii. 24. 
 
 Otway, Thomas, his pathetic powers, 
 iv. 22. 
 
 Oughton, Sir Adolphus, account of, 
 v. 26. 
 
 Overbury, Sir Thomas, play by Sa- 
 vage, iii. 75. 
 
 Ouran-outang, v. 28. 
 
 Oxford, J. entered at Pembroke Col- 
 lege, i. 18 ; his high opinion of, ii. 
 40 ; expulsion of students from, ii. 
 122. 
 
 PAINTING inferior to Poetry, iv. 217. 
 Paley on Civil Government, v. 158. 
 Palmer, Rev. Mr., account of, iv. 92. 
 Pamphlets, J.'s political, ii. 205 ; 
 
 definition of term, iii. 214. 
 Pantheon, ii. 111. 
 Panting, Dr., Master of Pembroke 
 
 College, 125. 
 Paoli, General, ii. 53; iii. 103; J.'s 
 
 introduction to, ii. 56 ; dinners at 
 
 his house, ii. 109, 143; iii. 219; 
 
 iv. 223. 
 Paradise, John, Esq., letter from J. 
 
 to, iv. 245. 
 
 Parcel, story of, iii. 14. 
 Parish clerks, their duties and their 
 
 salaries, iv 93. 
 Parisian society, iii. 171. 
 Parker, Mr., bookseller at Oxford, iv. 
 
 209. 
 Parliament, ii. 228 ; iii. 138; v. 36 ; 
 
 abuse in, iv. 203 ; inattention to 
 
 duties of, iv. 59 ; place-hunters in, 
 
 iii. 158 ; privileges of, iii. 273 ; 
 
 speaking in, iii. 157; attempt to 
 
 bring J. into, ii. 90. 
 Parnell, passage in Hermit, iii. 263 ; 
 
 " Life of," iv. 44. 
 Parr, Rev. Dr., iv. 18. 
 Pascal, Pensees de, iii. 256. 
 Passion week, iv. 67. 
 Paterson versus Alexander, case of, 
 
 ii. 239. 
 
 Patriot, J.'s pamphlet, ii. 185. 
 Patriotism, "the last refuge of a 
 
 scoundrel," ii. 224. 
 Paul's, St., Monument to J. in, iv. 
 
 286. 
 Payne, Mr. William, Introduction to 
 
 game of Draughts, i. 179. 
 Pearce, Dr., Bishop of Rochester, 
 
 sends J. paper of etymologies for 
 
 Dictionary,!. 166; "Commentary," 
 
 iii. 74. 
 
 Peers, House of, iii 234. 
 Pelham, Garrick's Ode on Death of, 
 
 i. 149. 
 Pembroke College, Oxford, i. 18, 26; 
 
 J.'s regard for, i. 27. 
 - Lord, ii. 212. 
 Pennant, Thomas, J. defends, iii. 182, 
 
 183, 184; v. 119, 175. 
 Pension, J. receives from George III., 
 
 i. 213. 
 
 Penuriousuess, iv. 125. 
 Pepys, Sir Lucas, iv. 120. 
 Percy, Bishop of Drogmore, remem- 
 brances of J., i. 11, 27, 73 ; ii. 290 ; 
 
 iii. 246 ; J. visits, i. 282 ; quarrel 
 
 with J., iii. 182-7. 
 Pere Boseovich, ii. 84. 
 Perkins, Mr., successor to Thrale's 
 
 brewery, iv. 62. 
 , letters from J. to, ii. 185 ; 
 
 iv. Ill, 177.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Peterborough, Lord, Memoirs of, iv. 
 
 224. 
 
 Petitions to Government, ii. 61. 
 Petrarch, J. finds copy of, in his 
 
 father's shop, i. 17. 
 Philips, Life of, iv. 45 ; his poem of 
 " Cyder." v. 53. 
 , Miss, the singer, iv. 155. 
 
 , the musician, epitaph on, i. 76. 
 
 Philology, iii. 133. 
 Philosophers, ancient, iii. 7. 
 Philosophy, Boliiigbroke's, remarks 
 
 on, i. 178. 
 
 Pillory, benefit of, iii. 211. 
 Piozzi, Signor, iv. 228; Mrs. (See 
 
 Thtale.) 
 
 Pitcarne, Dr., Latin Poetry of, v. 37. 
 Plain terms, advantage of using, iii. 
 
 164. 
 
 Planting, iii. 13& 
 Player's, J.'s prejudice against, L 88 ; 
 
 ii. 152, 259 ; iii. 123. 
 Plays, modern, remarks on, ii. 38. 
 Pleasure, different estimates of, iii. 
 164; pleasures of the table, re- 
 marks on, L 272. 
 Plymouth, i. 245. 
 Pococke, Dr., the orientalist, iv. 26 ; 
 
 Latin verses on, iii. 180. 
 Poems, temporary, J.'s contempt for, 
 
 iii. 213. 
 Poetry, J.'s early, L 12-17 ; ballad, 
 
 iii. 105. 
 
 Poets' corner, Johnson and Goldsmith 
 . visit, ii 155. 
 
 " , Lives of the," first 4 vols. 
 
 published, iii. 250 ; reprinted, iv. 
 Ill ; completed, iv. 51 ; attacks on, 
 iv. 50. 
 
 , to be seldom expected, v. 58. 
 
 Politeness of great consequence to 
 
 society, v. 55. 
 Political Economy, ii. 67. 
 
 parties, instructions to, v. 18. 
 Polygamy, v. 171. 
 Poor, employment of, iv. 1 1 ; wages 
 
 of, iv. 126. 
 
 Pope, ii. 155, 216, 260 ; iii. 224 ; 
 iv. 14; J.'s translation of his 
 " Messiah," i. 20; his opinion of 
 J.'a "London," i.63; his recom- 
 mendation of J. to Karl Qower, 
 i. (>i> ; his " Essuy on Man," iii. 269, 
 270 ; obnoxious stanzas in his 
 *' Universal Prayer," iii. 235 ; bis 
 
 conversational powers, iv. 41 ; 
 Ruffhead's " Life of," ii. 1 10 ; J.'s 
 " Life of," iii. 232 ; iv. 38-42. Vol- 
 taire's comparison between Dryden 
 and, ii. 11. 
 
 Popery, remarks on, ii. 70. 
 Porteous, Bishop, iii 188. 
 Porter, anecdote of J. and the, iv. 57. 
 Porter, Mr., i. 35 ; Mrs., i. 35, 40, 
 41 ; Lucy, J.'s stepdaughter, i. 5, 
 130 ; ii. 295; iii. 276 ; Letters to, 
 i. 193, 194; ii. 44, 247,248; iii. 
 264; iv. 67, 104, 105, 158, 168, 
 179,185. 
 
 , Mr., the younger, dearh of, 
 
 iv. 168. 
 Portmore, Lord, note to, from J. iv 
 
 183. 
 
 Portrait-painting unsuitable for wo- 
 men, ii. 232. 
 
 , sitting for, iv. 11 ; portraits 
 of J., iv. 285 ; portraits valuable iu 
 families, iv. 173. 
 Portree, v. 140. 
 Prayer, forms of, iv. 201. 
 " Preceptor," Dodsley's, i. 102. 
 Predestination, iv. 190. 
 Preferment, church, on what it De- 
 pends, ii. 227. 
 
 Prendergast, officer in Duke of Marl, 
 borough's army, prophecy of his 
 own death, ii. 119. 
 Presbyterian Church not a real one, 
 
 ii. 69. 
 
 Priestly, Dr., iv. 162. 
 Primrose, Lady, v. 157. 
 Prince Charles Edward, narrative of 
 
 wanderings, v. 146-160. 
 Pringle, Sir John, iii. 40. 
 Prior, Matthew, J.'s attack on, ii 55 ; 
 J. defends his tales, iii. 13',); bin 
 translations from Pitcairn, v. -'17. 
 Pntchard, Mrs., the actress, i. 100. 
 Prize-fighting, v. 181. 
 Profession, J's. regret at having 
 
 none, iii. 2<>8. 
 
 Pronunciation, purity of, ii. 107. 
 Property, literary remarks on, i 253 ; 
 
 ii. 166. 
 
 Provincialism, J.'s ; L 207. 
 Prussia, Frederick King of, J.'s 
 opinion of as an author, i. 251 ; 
 Memoirs of, i. 174. 
 Punning, J.'s dislike to, ii. 155 ; iv. 
 215.
 
 356 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 QUAKERS, their literal interpretation 
 of Scripture, iv. 147; female prea- 
 chers among-, i. 267 ; J.'s anger 
 on a voung- lady's becoming- one, 
 iii. 199. 
 
 Queensberry, Duke of, his opinion of 
 " Beggar's Opera," ii. 235. 
 
 Quin, the actor, his poor opinion of 
 " Beggar's Opera," ii. 236 ; his 
 remark on execution of Charles 
 the First, v. 
 
 Quotation, the parole of literary men, 
 iv. 77. 
 
 RATCLIFFE, Dr., his travelling- fel- 
 lowships, iv. 200. 
 
 Raleigh, Sir Walter, Ms. of, i. 124. 
 
 " Rambler," the commencement of, 
 i. 110 ; character and style of, i. 
 113, 117-119; close of, i. 123; 
 reported translation into Russian, 
 iv. 189. 
 
 Ramsay, Allan, his " Gentle Shep- 
 herd," ii. 143. 
 
 , (son of the poet,) 
 
 painter to the king-, his account of 
 Horace's villa, iii, 169 ; dinners at 
 his house, iii. 223, 257, 273; his 
 "death, iv. 247. 
 
 Ranelag-h, fine appearance of,ii. Ill ; 
 reflections on visiting-, iii. 134. 
 
 Rank, distinctions of, beneficial, i. 
 255 ; men not naturally equal, ii. 
 15, 142. 
 
 Rasay, island of, J's. visit to, v. 128 ; 
 Boswell's description of, 130-4. 
 (See Macleod.) 
 
 Rasselas, i. 194; iv. 88. 
 
 Retakin, a hig-h mountain in the 
 Hig-hlands, v. 109. 
 
 Ray, Miss, trial of Hackman for 
 shooting-, ii. 258. 
 
 Reading-, extensive, advantageous, ii. 
 232 ; iv. 22 ; little reading- in the 
 world, iv. 151 ; read when inclina- 
 tion prompts, iii. 25 ; on reading- 
 well, iv. 143. 
 
 Rebellion not a mark of depravity, v. 
 312 ; remarks on the rebellion of 
 1745, v. 158. 
 
 " Rehearsal," play by Duke of Buck- 
 ing-ham, ii. 111. 
 
 Relations, advantages of being- on 
 good terms with, v. 73. 
 
 Religion, evidences 2, Christian, i. 
 
 229, 233 ; how often neglected, iv. 
 150 ; religious impressions, iv. 91. 
 
 Remembrance and recollection de- 
 fined, iv. 93. 
 
 Resurrection, remarks on the, iv. 17. 
 
 Retirement from the world, v. 40. 
 
 Reviews, monthly and critical, well- 
 conducted, writers paid, iii. 19,26 ; 
 iv. 149. 
 
 Reynolds, Sir Joshua, his strong in- 
 terest in " Life of Savage," i. 87 ; 
 forms intimacy with J., 134 ; his 
 portrait of J., ii. 93; price of his 
 portraits, i. 184 ; his benevolence, 
 iv. 99 ; bis discourses to Royal 
 Academy, iii. 249; iv. 217; din- 
 ners at his house, iii. 169, 213, 
 227 ; iv. 61. Johnson's last re- 
 quest to, iv. 280 ; letters from J. 
 to, i. 282; ii. 93, 97; iii. 51, 57; 
 iv. 116, 140, 152, 174, 233, 247; 
 his description of J.'s strang-e ges- 
 ticulation, i. 74. 
 
 , Miss, iii. 215. 
 
 Rheumatism, recipe for, ii. 232. 
 
 Rhyme, excellence over blank verse, 
 i. 247. 
 
 Richardson the painter, i. 73. 
 
 , Samuel, author of Cla- 
 rissa, i. 74, 141 ; death of, com- 
 pared to Fielding, ii. 39. 
 
 Riches, influence of, v. 78. 
 
 Ridicule, use of, iv. 19, 129. 
 
 Riddoch, Rev. Mr., v. 59, 66. 
 
 Hitter Joseph, Boswell' s servant, v. 33. 
 
 Rivers, Earl, i. 90, 91. 
 
 Robertson, Dr., the historian, ii. 41 ; 
 letter from, respecting 1 J.'s visit to 
 Scotland, v. 2 ; meets J. in Edin- 
 burgh, v. 15 ; congratulates J. on 
 his return from Hebrides, v. ; cri- 
 ticism on his style, ii 153 ; iii. 116. 
 
 , Dr. James, v. 24. 
 
 , Mr. v. 77. 
 
 Rochester, Barnet's Life of, iii. 129; 
 his poems, iii. .128. 
 
 Rolt's " Dictionary of Commerce," 
 ii. 222. 
 
 Roman Catholic relig-ion, iii. 1 1 , 272 ; 
 iv. 198. 
 
 Ross, Professor, v. 61. 
 
 Round robin, iii. 53, 54. 
 
 Rousseau, Jean Jacques, treatise " on 
 the Inequality of Mankind," i. 253; 
 J.'s opinion of, ii. 14.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 357 
 
 " Rowley's Poetry," iii. 29. 
 Rudd, Mrs., iii. 49, 222. 
 Ruddiman, the grammarian , v. 50. 
 Rule, St, chapel of, v. 39. 
 Russia, its rising 1 greatness, ii. 67 ; 
 
 Empress of, iv. 189. 
 Rutt, John, M.D , "Spiritual Diary 
 
 and Soliloquies, iii. 114. 
 
 SALAMANCA, Universtiy of, J.'s high 
 o piuion of, i. 262. 
 
 Sollust, Spanish translation of, vi. 
 136. 
 
 Sarpi, Father Paul, i. 66. 
 
 Savage, Richard, J. writes life of, i. 
 83,88. 
 
 , his character, i. 86, -87; his 
 
 parentage, i. 89-92 ; his letter to 
 Lord Tyrconnel, i. 85 ; his " Wan- 
 derer," iv. 197. 
 
 Savage life inferior to civilised, ii. 
 148; v. 55-6. 
 
 Scalch, a Highland dram, v. 129. 
 
 Scalpa, island of, v. 126. 
 
 Schools, public, v. 58. 
 
 Schoolmasters, their government 
 somewhat of -a military character, 
 ii. 104. 
 
 Scorpian, story of the suicide , of one, 
 ii. 41. 
 
 Scotland, scenery of, i. 246 ; eccle- 
 siastical antiquities of, v. 39; Es- 
 tablished Church, of, ii. 69 ; Epis- 
 copal Church of, ii. 109 ; iii. 251 ; 
 v. 49 ; J.'s visit to, and kind re- 
 ception in, ii. 172, 195-198; J.'s 
 journey to Western Isles of, -iii. 
 202. 
 
 Scotch Clergy, their style of preach- 
 ing, iii. 236. 
 
 Education inferior to Engplish, 
 
 ii. 113, 233; iv. 98; accent, ii. 
 105; law, ii. 127; court of Ses- 
 sion, ii. 190 ; v. 77.; nationality, 
 ii. 199 ; militia, ii. 278 ; elections, 
 iv. 76 ; perseverance, iv. 15 ; pro- 
 curators, cause in Court of Session, 
 iv. 95; peers unconstitutional, in- 
 fluence of, iv. 170 ; learning, v. 
 37 ; plaids, v. 57 ; cleanliness, v. 
 8 ; troth, v. 59 ; breakfasts, v. 88 ; 
 Scotticisms, v. 49. 
 
 Scotchmen, reason' of J.'s dislike to, 
 iv. 120. 
 
 Scott, Mr., of Amwell, ii. 226. 
 
 Scott, Sir Win., dinner at his house, 
 iii. 176. 
 -, Mr. (Lord Stowell), v. 4, 7, 82. 
 
 Seaman's life, J.'s dislike to, ii. 281 ; 
 iii. 178. 
 
 Seeker, Archbishop, his political prin- 
 ciples, iv. 27. 
 
 Second sight, ii. 14, 100, 206; v. 122, 
 127, 179. 
 
 Self-defence, iii. 161. 
 
 Sermons, an important branch of Eng- 
 lish literature, iv. 79. 
 
 Seward, Anna, ii. 500; iii. 192; iv. 
 223. 
 
 -, Rev. Mr,, ii. 289; iii. 101, 
 
 276. 
 Shakspeare, iii. 32, 172; iv. 24. J.'s 
 
 edition of, i. 180. Capel's edition 
 
 of, iv, 12. Orthography of his name, 
 
 v. 88. 
 Sharp, Archbishop, v. 48. Miss S., 
 
 his great-grandchild, v. 45. 
 - , Dr. John, his account of J.'s 
 
 visit to Cambridge, i.-283. 
 Sinclair, Sir John, iv. 91. 
 Shaving 1 , iii. 110. 
 Shaw, Dr., v. 42, 45. 
 
 -. . , Cuthbert, Esq., his poem ,of 
 
 the " Race," ii. 27. 
 
 , Rev. Mr,, his works on the 
 
 Celtic languages, iii. 68 ; iv. 172. 
 Shebbeare, Dr., his " Letters on the 
 
 English Ration," iv. 84. 
 Shelburne, Lord, iv. 134. 
 Shenstone, W., ii. 289. Witty saying 
 
 of, iv. 155. 
 Sheridan, Thomas, i. 261; ii. 60, 
 
 207; iii. 254; iv. 149, 153, 222. 
 
 J.'s diflereuce with, i. 221, 223. 
 
 Mrs. S., her novels, i. 223. 
 - r-, Richard Brinsley, iii. 75, 
 
 76. His marriage, ii. 236. 
 Shiels, Mr., .one of J.'s amanuenses, 
 
 i. 9'J ; iii. 18, 22. 
 Shieply, ,Dr., Bishop of St. Asaph, iii. 
 
 169. 
 Shorthand, reporting, remarks on, ii. 
 
 145. 
 Sibbald, Sir Robert, his "Scotch An- 
 
 tiquities," iii. 153. 
 Siddons, Mrs., visits J., iv. 166. 
 Silver salvers, J.'s, iv. 69. 
 Skye, island of, ii. 173. J.'s Ode to, 
 
 v. 118. Rental of, v. 160. 
 Slate, parish church of, v. 115.
 
 358 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Slavery, discussion on, iii. 136. 
 
 Smart, Christopher, i. 204 ; ii. 222 ; 
 his madness, i. 228. 
 
 Smith, Dr. Adam, v. 14. His remarks 
 on J., i. 25. His style of conversa- 
 tion, iv. 24. His ""Wealth of Na- 
 tions," ii. 277. 
 
 , Edmund, J.'s Life of, i. 31. 
 
 , Rev. Mr., vicar of Southill, iv. 
 
 92. 
 
 Soho Works, Birmingham, ii. 293. 
 
 Solitude, how far beneficial, iii. 16. 
 
 South-Sea discoveries, ii. 160. 
 
 Southill church, iv. 90. 
 
 Southwell, Lady, account of, iii. 296. 
 Letter from J. to, iii. 296. 
 
 Spades, those used in Skye, v. 186. 
 
 Spain, Twiss's Travels in, ii. 222. 
 
 Spanish plays, wild and improbable, 
 iv. 19. 
 
 " Spectator," iii. 20 ; iv. 69. New 
 edition of, with notes, proposed, 
 ii. 138. 
 
 Speldings, v. 35, 77. 
 
 Spence's, Rev. J , " Anecdotes," iv. 50. 
 
 Spirits, evil, extracts from a sermon 
 of Bishop Kurd's on, iv. 198. 
 
 Staffordshire, J.'s last visit to, iv. 237. 
 
 Stanhope, Mr. (son of Lord Chester- 
 field), i. 148 ; iv/224. 
 
 Stanzas by J. addressed to a rich 
 young- man, iv. 280. 
 
 Staunton, Dr. (Sir George), letter 
 from J. to, i. 210. 
 
 Steele, Mr., Secretary of Treasury, i. 
 72. 
 
 Steevens, George, Esq., republishes 
 Johnson's " Shakspeare," ii. 133; 
 letter* from J. to, ii. 176 ; iii. 63. 
 His particulars of J., iv. 219. 
 
 Stella, her trick in argument, v. 192. 
 
 Stewart, Francis, one of J.'s amanu- 
 enses, i. 99 ; his sister, J.'s kind- 
 ness to, iii. 279: iv. 179. 
 
 , Sir Annesley, iv. 61. 
 
 Stillingfleet, Mr. Benjamin, his re- 
 markable dress and blue stockings, 
 iv. 80. 
 
 Stockings exported from Aberdeen, 
 v. 59. 
 
 Stopfbrd, Colonel, ii. 240. 
 
 Strahan, Rev. Mr., Vicar of Isling- 
 ton, i. 129; iv. 281. Publishes 
 J.'B " Prayers and Meditations," 
 ii. 130. 
 
 Strahan, Mr. the printer, i. 162; ii. 
 
 92 ; v. 63. Breakfast at his house, 
 
 ii. 208. 
 , William (junior), death of, 
 
 iv. 75. 
 
 , Mrs., letters from J. to, iv. 
 
 75,103. 
 Stratford-on-Avon, ii. 289 ; jubilee 
 
 ii. 51. 
 Streatham, Mr. Thrale's residence at, 
 
 iii. 152; iv. 100. 
 Street-charity, more common in men 
 
 than women, iv. 29. 
 Stuart, House of, ii. 142 ; iii. 103, 
 
 104. J.'s partiality to, ii. 22<>. 
 , Sir Andrew's, letters to Lord, 
 
 ii. 148. 
 
 , Colonel James, iii. 268, 275. 
 
 -, Hoa. and Rev. W., Vicar of 
 
 Luton, iv. 138. 
 Subordination, remarks on, ii. 15 ; 
 
 iii 177. 
 
 Subscription, ecclesiastical, v. 42. 
 Suicide, ii. 148; v. 34. 
 Sunday, observance of, ii. 240 ; v. 46. 
 
 , J.'s, scheme of life for, i. 171. 
 
 Swallows, remarks on their habits, 
 
 ii. 42. 
 Swearing, the habit almost universal, 
 
 ii. 110. 
 Sweden, History of, by Daline, ii. 
 
 103. 
 
 Sheridan's account of Revo- 
 lution in, read by J., iii. 192. 
 Swift, Dean. i. 66 ; ii. 47, 207. 
 
 " Tale of a Tub," i. 260 ; v. 26. 
 
 J.'s prejudice against, v. 26. J.'s 
 
 life of, iv. 49. Orrery's life of, 
 
 v. 189. Stella's remark on, ii. 249. 
 
 His style, ii 125. 
 Swinfen, Dr., L 21, 31, 32. 
 Swinton, Mr., Chaplain of Oxford 
 
 Jail, i. 152. 
 Sydenham, Dr., description of St. 
 
 Vitus's dance, i. 73. 
 
 TASSO, J. writes dedication to Hoole's 
 translation of, i. 219. 
 
 his "Jerusalem," iii. 222. 
 
 Taste, change of, ii. 16. 
 
 " Taxation no Tyranny," J.'s pam- 
 phlet, ii. 203, 204, 205, 217. 
 
 Tower's answer to, ii. 205. 
 
 Tea, defence of, i. 179. J.'s love of, 
 i. 283 ; v. 9.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 359 
 
 "Telemachus.a Masque,'' by G. Gra- 
 ham, i. 237 ; v. 67. 
 
 Thames, use of ribald language on, 
 iv. 25. 
 
 Theatre, Lichfield, J. at, ii. 203. 
 
 Theocritus, remarks on, iv. 10. 
 
 Theodore the Hermit, " Vision of," i. 
 102. 
 
 Thomson, James, the poet, J.'s opi- 
 nion of, i. 260 ; ii. 46. Story of 
 J.'s reading, iii. 22. Particulars 
 concerning, iii. 242. 
 
 Rev. James, case of, iii. 
 
 34-9. 
 
 Thrale, family, i. 285 ; Mr., i. 285 ; 
 iii. 11. J.'s character of, i. 287. 
 Death of infant son, ii. 300. His 
 illness, iii. 281 ; iv. 57. Contests 
 Southwark election, iii. 165. Din- 
 ners at bis house, iii. 17 ; iv. 62. 
 Death of, iv. 65. J. one of his 
 executors, iv, 65. Sale of brewery, 
 iv. 65 ; v. 95. 
 
 Mrs., i. 23, 39, 40, 287, 288 ; 
 
 ii. 56, 276 ; iii. 4. 29, 212 ; iv. 
 189 ; v. 2. J.'s ode to, v. 120. 
 Her flattery of J., ii. 224. Letter 
 to J. from, iii. 282. Letters from 
 J. to, iii. 283 ; iv. 157, 158, 159. 
 Coolness to J., iv. 115. Retains 
 appearance of friendship, iv. 229. 
 iv. 229. Marries Piozzi, an Italian 
 music-master, iv. 228. *' Anec- 
 dotes" of J., iv. 216. Inaccuracy of 
 ' anecdotes," iv. 229-33. " British 
 synonimy," iv. 279. 
 
 Thuanus, J.'s thought of translating, 
 iv. 278. 
 
 Thurlow, Lord, letter to J. from, iii. 
 297 ; letter from J. to, iv. 234. 
 Application to, in J.'s behalf, iv. 
 221, 226, 234. 
 
 Tickelle, life of, iv. 45. 
 
 Timidity, best means of overcoming, 
 iv. 213. 
 
 Toleration, remarks on, iv. 15, 278. 
 
 Tongue, government of the, iii. 255. 
 
 Tour, J.'s provincial, ii. 281. 
 
 Town and country life compared, iii. 
 171. 
 
 Towushend, Mr. (Lord Sydney), iv. 
 216. 
 
 Trade, remarks on, ii. 65 ; v. 184 ; 
 impositions in, v. 216. 
 
 Translations, iii. 174. J.'s, i. 12. 
 
 Transpire, definition of, iii. 233. 
 Transubstantiation, v. 47. 
 Trapaud, Mr. v. 100. 
 Travellers, iii. 159, 201, 202. 
 Travelling, advantages of, iii. 181, 
 
 238. 
 
 Treason, constructive, iv. 66. 
 Trees, scarcity of in Scotland, T. 46, 
 
 50. 
 Trent, J.'s translation of " History of 
 
 Council of," i. 50, 68. 
 Trianon, ii. 253. 
 
 Trimlestown, Lord, iii. 154, 155. 
 Trinity, doctrine of the, ii. 164 ; v. 
 
 60. 
 College, Oxford, ii. 286. 
 
 Dublin, i. 284. 
 Truth, iii. 270 ; iv. 217 ; physical and 
 
 moral, iv. 12. 
 Truthfulness, iii. 154, 155. 
 Tuilleries, ii. 251. 
 Tunbridge Wells, J. visits, i. 102. 
 Turk's Head Coftee-house, i. 267. 
 "Turkish Spy," not genuine, iv. 139. 
 Tyers, Mr. Thomas, his remark on 
 
 J.'s taciturnity, iii. 207. 
 Tyrconnel, Lord, patronises Richard 
 
 Savage, i. 92. 
 
 ULINISH, v. 187. 
 
 Unius lacertse, meaning of, iii. 172. 
 
 Universal History, list of authors qf, 
 iv. 259-261. 
 
 Visitor, J.'s contributions 
 to, 94, 173. 
 
 Universities, English, iii. 8. 
 
 University College, Oxford, ii. 283, 
 285. University verses, ii. 237. 
 
 " Urban Sylvanus," (Edward Cave,) 
 verses addressed to, by J., i. 55. 
 Letter to, i. 87. 
 
 Uttoxter market, J.'s refusal to at- 
 tend, iv. 252. 
 
 J.'s penance in, iv. 253. 
 
 "VAGABONDO, 11," Italian translation 
 of the Rambler, i. 109. 
 
 Valancy, Colonel, celebrated anti- 
 quary, iv. 187. 
 
 " Vanity of Human Wishes," i. 103, 
 104 ; v. 30. 
 
 Vanity, reproofs for, iv. 135, 217. 
 
 Veal, Scotch, v. 15 
 
 Versailles, ii. 252. 
 
 Verses, J.'s mode of writing, ii. 16.
 
 ceo 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Vesey, Hon. Mr., iv. 26. 
 
 Vice and Virtue, popular estimate of, 
 iii. 237. 
 
 Virgil, i. 23; ii. 87; iv. 10. J.'s 
 early translations from, i. 12 ; and 
 Homer compared, iii. 129, 224. 
 
 Voltaire L 251, 290; ii. 62, v. 2 ; and 
 Rosseau compared, ii. 14 ; his com- 
 parison between Pope and Dryden, 
 ii. 11 ; Candide and Rasselas com- 
 pared, i. 195; iii. 240. 
 
 Vows, J.'s horror of, iii. 241. 
 
 " Voyages to the South-Sea," iv. 210. 
 
 Vyse, Dr., letters from J. to, iii. 82, 
 298. 
 
 WALES, J.'s visit to, ii. 181, 
 
 Prince of.iv. 129. 
 
 Walker, Mr., the elocution rna(ster,iv. 
 143. 
 
 Wall, Dr. physician at Oxford, iv. 200 
 
 Waller, Edmund, the poet, J.'s " Life 
 of," iv.'34; his great grandson, v. 
 57. 
 
 Walmesley, Gilbert, Esq., of Lich- 
 field, J.^s character -of, in life 'of 
 Edmund Smith, i. 13 ; his life and 
 opinions, i. 46 ; letter from to 
 Rev. Mr. Colson, i. 48. 
 
 Walpole, Sir Robert, i. 63, 72. 
 
 , Horace (Earl of Orford), 
 
 his character of J., iv. 214. 
 
 '^Walton's Lives," a favourite book 
 of J.'s, ii. 233. 
 
 W T apping, J. explores, iv. 139. 
 
 Warburton, Dr. iv. 39 ; v. 54, 63, 89. 
 His editions of Shakspeare, i. 93. 
 Controversy with Lowth, ii. 32. 
 
 Warley Camp, J. vkits, iii. 243. 
 
 Warren, J., Esq., of Pembrokeshire, 
 i. 37. 
 
 , Mr. bookseller, of Birming- 
 ham, i. 35. 
 
 Warton, Rev. Dr. Joseph, " Essay 
 on the Genius and Writings of 
 Pope," i. 259 ; letters fiom J. to, 
 i. 138; ii. 77. 
 
 Warton, Rev. Thomas, i. 149; ii. 286. 
 His sketch of J.'s visit to Oxford, 
 i. 150. Letters from J. to, i. 149, 
 154-160, 163, 165-182, 189, 
 190 ; ii. 50, 77. 
 
 Watts, Dr., J.'s eulogy of, i. 177. 
 Watson, Dr.. Bishop of Llandaff, iv. 
 
 Watson, Dr., of St. Andrew's, v. 
 37. 
 
 Wealth, advantages of, iv. 93 ; right 
 improvement of, iv. 123. 
 
 Webster, Dr. Alexander of Edinburgh, 
 v. 31. 
 
 Wedderbume, Mr. (Lord Loughbo- 
 rough), i. 214 ; iii. 2. His success 
 in losing Scotch accent, i. 222. 
 
 Welch, Mr. Saunders and J. anec- 
 dote of, iv. 130. 
 
 Welwyn, residence of Dr. Young, J. 
 visits, iv. 88. 
 
 Wentworth, Rev. Mr., of Stourbridge 
 School, i. 11. 
 
 Wesley, Rev. John, iii. 155 ; v. 18. 
 His ghost story, iii. 199; letter from 
 J. to, iii. 264. Western Isles, J.'s 
 journey to,, published, and attacks 
 consequent upon, ii. 233. 
 
 Wetherell, Rev. Dr., Master of Uni- 
 versity College, Oxford, ii. 283; 
 letter -from J. to, ii. 273. 
 
 Wheeler, Rev. Dr., of Oxford, letter 
 ' from J. to, iii. 247. 
 
 Whigs and Tories not always true to 
 their principles, i. 63; the Devil 
 the first Whig, iii. 219. 
 
 'White, Rev. Mr., iv. 252 ; letter from 
 J. to; ii. 135. 
 
 Whitehead, Paul, J.'s low opinion of, 
 i.62. 
 
 'WMtefield, Rev. George, i. 27; v. 17. 
 His style of preaching, ii. 57 ; iii. 
 273. 
 
 Whitefoord, Caleb, iv. 218. 
 
 Wickedness easier than virtue, v. 171. 
 
 Wilkes, John, Esq., ii. 7 6 ; iv. 76, 80. 
 Meets J. at dinner at E. Dilly's, 
 iii. 39 - 49 ; his jeu d' esprit on 
 passage in " J.' s Dictionary,' ' i. J 69 ; 
 remarks onJ., iii. 152 ; J.'s remarks 
 on Wilkes, iii. 122 ; Burke's pun 
 on, iii. 216. 
 
 'Will, J.'s, iv. 273. 
 
 Williams, Mrs. Anna, i. 41, 124, 243 ; 
 ii. 65, 186; iii. 16,42. Account 
 of, i. 268 ; taken into J.'s house, i. 
 128 ; 'her " Miscellany," ii. 23 ; 
 her death, iv. 160. 
 
 , Miss H. M. Williams, 
 
 " Ode on the Peace," iv. 192. 
 
 -, Rev. Zachariah, i. 154; 
 
 death of, i. 170. 
 Wilson, Rev. Mr., " Archeological
 
 INDEX. 
 
 301 
 
 Dictionary," iv. 116; letter from 
 
 J. to, iv. 116. 
 Windhatn, Hon. W. of Norfolk, iv. 
 
 139 ; letters from J. to, iv. 155, 
 
 244. 
 Wine-drinking, iii. 257 ; J.'s mode 
 
 of, iv. 57 ; J.'s abstinence from, ii. 
 
 280. 
 Wise, Mr. Radclivian Librarian at 
 
 Oxford, i. 152 ; his " History of 
 
 Fabulous Ages," i. 152. 
 Wines, choice of, v. 178. 
 Woffingham, Margaret, the actress, 
 
 iii. 178. 
 Wolfe, General, v. 111. 
 
 Women, remarks upon, degree ot 
 
 liberty allowed to, iii. 193 ; iv. 
 
 199. Marrying a pretty woman, 
 
 iv. 97. 
 
 Woolwich, convicts at, iii. 180. 
 Words, J.'s. habit of coining, v. 95. 
 World, intercourse with the, iii. 274 ; 
 
 retirement from, v. 40. 
 
 YOUNGE, Sir William, writes epilogue 
 to " Irene," i. 107. 
 
 Young, the poet, J.'s " Life of," iv. 
 47 ; his gloom, iv. 89 ; his "Night 
 Thoughts," J.'s opinion of, ii. 64. 
 
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