1/ 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 THE IONIAN ISLES, 
 
 ALBANIA, 
 
 THESSALY, MACEDONIA, &c. 
 
 DURING THE TEARS 
 
 1812 and 1813. 
 
 \ 
 BY HENRY HOLLAND, M.D. F.R.S. 
 
 &c. &c. 
 
 THE SECOND EDITION. 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, 
 
 rATERNOSTER-ROW. 
 1819.
 
 Printed by Strahan arid Spottiswcode, 
 Printers- Street, London.
 
 Z>/= 
 
 /S7? 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 OF 
 
 THE SECOND VOLUME. 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Departure from Larissa. — Ampelachia. — Vale of Tempe. 
 — Shores of the Archipelago. — Platomana. — Mount 
 Olympus. — Katrina. — Field of Battle at Pydna. — 
 Leuterochori. — Passage over the Gulf to Salonica 
 
 Page 1 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Salonica. — English Consul here. — History and Descrip- 
 tion of the City. — Mosques of Sta. Sophia and St De- 
 metrius. — Antiquities of Salonica. — Population and 
 Character of Society. — German Residents. — Commerce 
 of the Place. — Sketch of the Overland Trade to Ger- 
 many. — Ishmael Bey of Seres . . . 41 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Departure from Salonica by Sea to Zeitun. — Protracted 
 and dangerous Voyage. — Isles of Chilidromi and Sara- 
 kino. — Pirates of the Archipelago. — Skopelos. — Skl- 
 VOL. II. A 2
 
 IV CONTENTS. 
 
 athos. — Trikeri. — Gulf of Volo. — Country round the 
 Skirts of Mount Pelion. — Passage up the Gulf of Zei- 
 tun. — View of Thermopylae . . Page 72 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 Stelida. — Zeitun. — Journey through the Southern Part 
 of Thessaly to Larissa. — Pass of Thomoko. — Field of 
 Pharsalia. — Arrival at Larissa. — Interview with Veli 
 Pasha. — Return to Zeitun. — Dangerous Passage over 
 the Chain of Othrys 103 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 From Zeitun to the Pass of Thermopylae. — Description of 
 the Pass, in reference to its ancient History. — Ascent of 
 the Chain of GEta. — Leuterochori. — Valley of the Ce- 
 phissus. — Passage over the Chain of Mountains to Sa- 
 lona. — View from the Summit — Mineralogical Re- 
 marks . . . . . . .131 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 Journey through the ancient Phocis, Boeotia, and Attica, to 
 Athens. — Delphi. — i Triodon. ■ — Cheronaea. — Livadia. 
 — -Helicon. — Marsh of Copais. — Thebes. — Ruins of 
 Thespia. — Fields of Leuctra and Platea. — Cham of 
 Cithseron. — Via Sacra. — Athens . . 155 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 Athens. — General Character of the Place. — Its Memorials 
 of Antiquity. — Scenery around the City. — Climate. — 
 Character of the inhabitants. — Marathon. — Pentelicus. 
 — Mineralogical Remarks. — Departure for the Pelo-
 
 CONTENTS. V 
 
 ponnesus. — Eleusis. — Megara. — Corinth. — Nemea. — 
 Mycensu. — Argos. — Tripolitza. — Calavrita. — Patras. 
 — Passage to Zante . . . Page 179 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 Departure on a second Journey into Albania. — Landing at 
 Prevesa. — Interview with Ali Pasha. — Narrative of an 
 Excursion to the upper part of the Gulf of Arta. — Ali 
 Pasha among the Ruins of Nicopolis. — Departure for 
 Ioannina . by the Route of Suli. — Luro. — Entrance 
 among the Suli Mountains. — Seraglio of Suli. — War of 
 Ali Pasha with the Suliotes . . . .218 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 Departure from Suli. — Aia-Glyky. — Paramithia, — Sul- 
 lopia. — Journey down the River Kalama. — Soulias. — 
 Ruins at Palaia-Venetia. — Return to Paramithia. — 
 Route to Ioannina. — Ruins near Dramasus. — Residence 
 at Ioannina ...... 247 
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 
 Departure from Ioannina for the North of Albania. — Zitza. 
 
 — Falls of Glissani. — Monastery of Sosino. — Lake of 
 Tzerovina. — Delvinaki. — Great Valley of the Deropuli. 
 
 — Libochovo. — Argyro-Kastro. — Gardiki. — Massacre 
 of the Gardikiotes. — Route to Tepeleni. — River Viosa. 
 — Tepeleni. — Yusuf-Aga. — Dinner from the Haram 
 
 27« 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 Departure from Tepeleni. — Lopesi. — Lunetzi. — Car- 
 bonara. — Ruins at Gradista. — Latin Inscription. — Loss 
 of Papers. — Monastery of Pollina. — Ruins of Apol-
 
 VI CONTENTS. 
 
 Ionia. — Avlona. — Acroceraunian Mountains. — Pitch 
 Mines of Selenitza. — Ancient Oracle of Nymphaeum. — 
 Return to Tepeleni. — Journey to Ioannina Page 314 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Third Residence at Ioannina. — Interviews with Ali Pasha. 
 — Departure for Prevesa and Zante. — Conclusion 351
 
 TRAVELS, &c. 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM LARISSA. AMPELACHIA. VALE OF 
 
 TEMPE. SHORES OF THE ARCHIPELAGO. PLATOMANA. 
 
 MOUNT OLYMPUS. KATRINA. -— FIELD OF BATTLE AT 
 
 PYDNA. — LEUTEROCHORI. PASSAGE OTOE THE GULF 
 
 TO SALONICA. 
 
 At noon, on the 24th of November, we quitted 
 the house of the Archbishop of Larissa, and com- 
 menced our journey towards the ancient Mace- 
 donia. Our Ioannina Tartar, Osmyn, having 
 business to transact at Salona, to the north of the 
 gulf of Corinth, it was agreed that he should 
 perform this expedition during our absence from 
 Larissa, rejoining us at this place on our return 
 from Salonica. The Tartar Sulema, whom Veli 
 Pasha appointed as our present guide, was a man 
 of different appearance ; more sumptuous in his 
 apparel, but mild or even effeminate in his aspect, 
 and much less active and imposing than his pre- 
 decessor. We augured ill of him in the outset, 
 
 VOL. II. u
 
 2 ROUTE TO AMPELACHIA. 
 
 from the wretchedness of the post-horses which he 
 procured for us at Larissa ; and this first impres- 
 sion was only in part redeemed by the quiet good- 
 nature of the man in the after-progress of his 
 services. 
 
 Our party, in leaving Larissa, was further in- 
 creased by a Dervish travelling to Salonica, and by 
 another Turk who was taking the same route. 
 The Dervish belonged, as I believe, to the class of 
 these religieux called the Bektashis : his dress was 
 that most common among the Dervishes, — a long 
 cloke made of coarse white woollen, and on his 
 head a tall white cap, in form nearly resembling 
 that worn by the Tartars. His beard was of re- 
 markable length : though sanctified by his cha- 
 racter, he wore pistols in his girdle ; while over his 
 shoulders was suspended a long leathern case con- 
 taining the musical instrument called a mandolin^ 
 which we afterwards found to be a most important 
 part of his travelling equipage. Though his ex- 
 terior had something of uncouth wildness, his 
 manner was gay, good-humoured, and civil ; he 
 seemed to court an intercourse with us, and sought 
 to beguile the way by the chaunting of Turkish 
 songs, a species of music which more engaged the 
 ear by loudness than by harmony. 
 
 Our first stage was to Ampelachia, a town 
 situated near the western entrance of the defiles of 
 Tempe, about twenty miles from Larissa. The 
 Peneus, or Salympria, after long pursuing its 
 tranquil course through the plains of Thessaly, ap-
 
 ROUTE TO AMPELACHIA, 3 
 
 pears at last as if arrested in its progress ; and the 
 eye, carried vaguely along the mountain range, 
 which forms the eastern boundary of these plains, 
 sees no opening through whicli the river may find 
 its passage. From the loftier heights of Olympus, 
 at the northern extremity of this boundary, de- 
 scends a groupe of mountains which seems as if 
 connected with the elevation of Ossa ; while from 
 this latter mountain other heights stretch towards 
 the south, even as far as Pelion and the Pelasgic 
 Gulf. A more accurate observation shows an 
 opening in this boundary, in the interval between 
 Olympus and Ossa ; and through this defile, which 
 is the celebrated Tempe, the Salympria pursues its 
 dark and contracted course towards the sea. From 
 Larissa to the entrance of Tempe, the river flows 
 in a north-easterly direction, and the great route to 
 Macedonia seeks the same point, as the only exit 
 on this side from the plains of Thessaly. 
 
 As we proceeded on our road, the views of 
 Olympus and Ossa became each moment more in- 
 teresting. The form of the latter mountain, (now 
 called Kissavo,) as it is seen from this side, has 
 some resemblance to that of Arthur's Seat near 
 Edinburgh ; its outline being conical, with the 
 ascending sides somewhat concave, and a single 
 summit. The height of Ossa I have no means of 
 stating, except by surmise. From the distance at 
 whicli I afterwards saw it, when at sea, I should 
 conjecture that its elevation is little less than 4000 
 feet. Its relation in form and position to Olympus, 
 
 B "2.
 
 4 ROUTE TO AMPELACHIA. 
 
 as seen from this point, explains, to the eye at 
 least, the old fable of the Giants placing Ossa 
 upon Pelion, to war against Jupiter. 
 
 The hilly country along the skirts of the latter 
 mountain was formerly inhabited by a tribe of 
 Perrhsebii, seemingly allied in origin to those of 
 the Pindus chain. * Two or three large towns are 
 found in this district, of which the principal is 
 Elasson, distant about eight hours' journey from 
 Larissa. It contains a population of 6000, partly 
 Turkish, partly Greek, with several mosques and 
 churches. This town stands on the site of Olooson, 
 a place noted by several ancient writers for the 
 property its soil had of giving a white colour, — an 
 effect probably of some compound of clay and 
 decomposed calcareous or magnesian rock, t 
 
 When advanced a few miles from Larissa, keep- 
 ing the Salympria on our left hand, we arrived at 
 an extensive morass which the road traverses by a 
 paved causeway. This marsh was probably the 
 Lake Neson of ancient Thessaly, mentioned by 
 Strabo as one of his authorities for believing that 
 this country was once covered with water, before 
 the opening of Tempe had afforded an egress to 
 the sea. In former times, as at present, it appears 
 to have been flooded only when the Peneus, with 
 which it had communication, was swelled by rains. 
 Beyond this morass, the plain, which is here broken 
 by low eminences, exhibits a surface covered with 
 
 * Horn. Iliad, lib. ii. 749. 
 
 f Homer (II. lib. ii. 739.) calls it OUoTcrmx wxwX.
 
 ENTRANCE OF TEMPE. 5 
 
 fragments, chiefly of primitive rock, gneiss, mica- 
 slate, marble, quartz, chalcedony, &c. These frag- 
 ments of primitive slate I imagine to be derived 
 from the hills bordering the plain on its northern 
 side, which hills are connected in one range with 
 those behind Zarko, already mentioned as affording 
 similar fragments. In a distant view of this range, 
 which I afterwards obtained from Thomoko, on the 
 southern boundary of the plains, I found farther 
 reason to believe, from the general outline of the 
 hills, that they are chiefly composed of primitive 
 slate-rocks. They do not appear to attain any 
 great elevation^ until rising towards their eastern 
 extremity into the heights of Olympus. 
 
 The sun had already set before we reached the 
 opening of Tempe, and we saw obscurely through 
 the shades of evening, the precipitous outline of 
 cliffs and lofty eminences approaching each other, 
 and gradually contracting the width of the valley. 
 There is an extreme beauty in the scenery, which 
 is thus intermediate between the expanded plains 
 of Larissa and the rocky defile forming the interior 
 of Tempe. It is wild, irregular, and abounding in 
 precipitous forms, yet ■ is divested of harshness by 
 the luxuriance of foliage, and by the softness of 
 the vallies and openings which intervene among 
 these lofty eminences. The river pursues a tran- 
 quil course along the lower part of the valley, 
 flowing underneath the spreading shade of plane- 
 trees, and here and there expanding to encircle 
 with its stream some little islet covered with wood. 
 
 ii 3
 
 6 ENTRANCE OF TEMPE. 
 
 Several villages and hamlets are seen in the most 
 picturesque situations at this western entrance of 
 Tempe, some of them inhabited by Greek, others 
 by Turkish population. In ancient times, Gonnos, 
 Elone, and other towns stood in this district ; and 
 here also the Eurotas, or Titaresius, entered the 
 Peneus from the mountains under Olympus ; a 
 stream mentioned by Homer and other writers as 
 remarkable for the oleaginous quality of its waters, 
 which prevented their mingling immediately with 
 those of the Peneus. I observed, through the dusk 
 of the evening, what I imagine to be the valley of 
 this stream, which however, I believe, has been 
 little explored by the modern traveller. * 
 
 The small village and Khan of Baba are situated 
 on the southern bank of the Salympria, where the 
 river is about to enter its more contracted channel, 
 formed by precipitous mountain-cliffs. The tra- 
 veller with whom time is a stronger motive than 
 curiosity, may either pass the night here, or pursue 
 his way forward through the straits of Tempe. 
 Those who are solicitous to survey the various fea- 
 tures in the population of the country, will do well 
 to deviate from the direct route in ascending to the 
 
 * Homer, who calls it the Titaresius, (II. lib. ii. 7.51.) after 
 describing the immiscibility of its waters, adds, 
 
 Ofxy yaj own ETuyoj uSaTo; trw onrojfa!;. 
 
 See also Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. iv. c. 8. and Lucan. lib. vi. 375. 
 Seneca, in his " Naturales Questiones," speaks of the noxious 
 quality of the oleaginous matter brought down by this river. It 
 is probably naphtha, or some bituminous substance which is here 
 described.
 
 AMPELACHIA. 7 
 
 town of Ampelachia, placed in a most extraordi- 
 nary situation on the face of the mountain, which 
 here forms the southern boundary of the valley. 
 This mountain, connected in the same line with 
 the cliffs of Tempe, may be considered as part of 
 thatgroupe of which the cone of Ossa is the central 
 and loftiest part. It presents a steep and broken 
 front, elevated into ridges, or receding in deep 
 hollows and ravines. The town stands on this irre- 
 gular ascent, its lower part being more than COO 
 feet above the level of the river beneath. The 
 number of houses is said not to exceed five or six 
 hundred, but these, even more than is usual in the 
 towns of this country, are dispersed over a wide ex- 
 tent of surface ; and, in insulated situations, sur- 
 rounded by trees, or separated by ravines, extend 
 far upwards on the acclivity of the mountain. An 
 irregular cork-screw road, in some places cut in the 
 rock, in others carried along the channel of moun- 
 tain-torrents, conducts the ascent of the traveller 
 from Baba to Ampelachia. Entirely benighted be- 
 fore we reached the former place, there was extreme 
 difficulty and some danger in accomplishing this 
 ascent. Notwithstanding the light of torches which 
 some peasants carried before us, we twice lost our 
 way among the deep hollows which intersect the 
 hill, and were each moment apprehensive of falling 
 over the cliffs which border on the road. This mis- 
 fortune actually occurred to one of the luggage- 
 horses, and our guides found it necessary to leave 
 the poor animal to his fate, after they had suc- 
 
 b 4
 
 8 AMPELACHIA. 
 
 ceeded, with great difficulty, in taking off his load. 
 We did not reach Ampelachia till a late hour, and 
 were prevented by this cause from seeking admit- 
 tance into the Greek house to which we were re- 
 commended. Our night's lodging was taken up in 
 a miserable building, which afforded us nothing but 
 bare walls, and straw mats, with a scanty allowance 
 of fire-wood. The approach of winter, and the 
 elevated site of Ampelachia, rendered the last 
 article one of necessity. 
 
 The morning of the 25th was wet and gloomy, 
 but at intervals, through the clouds which enve- 
 loped us, we saw the remarkable character of the 
 town. Nothing can be more picturesque than the 
 various groupes of buildings which compose it. 
 Rising from out the thick foliage of woods, or over- 
 hanging the deep ravines of the mountain, their 
 open galleries and projecting roofs render the effect 
 of situation still more singular and imposing to the 
 eye. The oak, olive, and cypress, are spread over 
 the broken surface on which the town stands, and 
 intermixed with the foliage of vineyards ; while the 
 loftier ridges of the mountain, receding towards 
 the south, are covered with long rows of pines. A 
 few of the houses are built and furnished in the 
 European manner. * 
 
 Ampelachia is interesting in its inhabitants as 
 well as in the scenery which surrounds it. These 
 
 * Dr. Clarke has supposed, and. with much probability, that 
 Ampelachia may be the ancient Atrakia, from finding near the 
 place the peculiar green marble, anciently called the Atracium 
 marmor.
 
 AMPELACHIA. 9 
 
 are almost exclusively Greeks ; and what may seem 
 singular in a place thus situated, have been noted 
 for some years past for the extent of their com- 
 mercial undertakings, and for a character of active 
 intelligence and enterprise, which has procured 
 them a high repute among the communities of 
 modern Greece. Most of the merchants of Am- 
 pelachia have visited or resided in the great com- 
 mercial cities of the continent, and established con- 
 nections there, the extent and success of which are 
 testified in the wealth many of them have acquired. 
 These connections are chiefly with Germany ; but 
 also with Constantinople, Smyrna, and other places 
 of trade in the Levant. The' commerce of the 
 place has its basis in manufacture ; and the popu- 
 lation of the town, like that of Tornavo, and other 
 places in the surrounding country, is actively en- 
 gaged in the various processes of making and dyeing 
 cotton thread, the staple commodity of the country. 
 A great part of the cottons grown in the plains of 
 Thessaly are brought to this district for the use of 
 its manufacturers. It is estimated that the town of 
 Ampelachia furnishes annually about 3000 bales of 
 dyed cotton thread, each bale being calculated at 
 250 lbs. Of this quantity nearly the whole is trans- 
 mitted by land carriage to Germany ; a traffic 
 which is well regulated, and carried on with much 
 activity by the Ampelachian merchants. * 
 
 * The Greek method of giving what is called the Turkey Red 
 is briefly the following : — The cottons are first exposed to three 
 leys of soda, ashes, and lime, mixed in nearly equal quantities ;
 
 10 CONDITION OF THE AMPELACHIANS. 
 
 It may be added regarding the inhabitants of this 
 town, that while thus reputed in their commercial 
 character, they have acquired much respect from 
 their general cultivation of mind ; and from the aids 
 they have afforded to the literature of their country. 
 There is a considerable Greek school here, which is 
 said to be in a flourishing state. 
 
 Though Ampelachia, if I am rightly informed, 
 is a part of the private property of Ali Pasha, the 
 Ampelachians enjoy a comparative exemption from 
 the evils of slavery, while their countrymen at 
 Larissa suffer under the perpetual oppressions of 
 their Turkish masters. These local differences of 
 condition are frequent in Turkey ; and occur in 
 general as an effect of its irregular government, and 
 of the amount of authority conferred on, or assumed 
 by the provincial rulers ; which renders their personal 
 character of much more importance to the welfare 
 of the population, than where power depends upon 
 laws, and emanates directly from one source. The 
 mechanical adherence of the Turks to habits once 
 formed, is another cause of this variety ; and a 
 
 then follows a soda bath, which is repeated three or four times, 
 and from which the cottons come out perfectly bleached. The 
 galling and aluming are next in succession employed ; the latter 
 process being generally repeated twice, with an interval of two 
 days : a small quantity of soda is usually added to the aluminous 
 solution. To give the dye, madder-root is employed, with a 
 small proportion of sheep's blood, which is supposed to strengthen 
 the colour. Finally, a bath alkalized with soda is used to perfect 
 the dye, this ley being made to boil till the colour takes its proper 
 lint : this is of course a delicate part of the process.
 
 CONDITION OF THE AMPELACHIANS. 11 
 
 third, of still more influence, is the different pro- 
 portion their numbers bear to those of the Greeks 
 in the several towns and districts of the empire. 
 Of some places the population is principally Ma- 
 hommedan ; of others, exclusively Christian ; and 
 this more entire separation of the two communities 
 is by no means uncommon in the villages and small 
 towns throughout Greece. In larger towns, the po- 
 pulation is usually of a mixed character ; and here, 
 the relation of Turks and Greeks depends in part 
 upon the numbers of each class ; the more active 
 and cultivated genius of the latter people giving 
 them a facility in eluding or opposing the sluggish 
 tyranny of the Turks, and this facility being in- 
 creased by their numerical strength. Where the 
 population is wholly Greek, there is a still further 
 exemption from the direct evils of personal op- 
 pression ; the indolence and uniformity of the 
 Turkish character affording a local limitation to its 
 effects, and counteracting in some degree the in- 
 fluence of power. This last circumstance is pro- 
 bably one of the causes of the condition of the Am- 
 pelachians, who, living amidst the heights of 
 Mount Ossa, and forming in themselves an ex- 
 clusive society of Greeks, preserve a greater degree 
 of personal freedom than their countrymen in the 
 plains below. Much more, however, in this in- 
 stance may be attributed to the commercial cha- 
 racter of the people ; creating here, as elsewhere, 
 those habits of independent activity, which are 
 more successful than any other in opposing the
 
 12 CONDITION OF THE AMPELACHIANS. 
 
 efforts of a despotic rule. It may be remarked, too, 
 that the merchants of this place, from their direct 
 connection with continental houses, obtain in some 
 degree a foreign protection to their industry ; which 
 is further sheltered by the advantage the Turkish 
 proprietors themselves derive from it, in the ready 
 disposal of their produce. Ampelachia, it is true, 
 is situated within the power of Ali Pasha ; but the 
 oppressive vigilance of his despotism is lessened in 
 this part of his territory ; and the Ampelachian 
 merchants are called upon to fewer sacrifices and 
 less degradation than the commercial Greeks on the 
 Albanian side of Pindus. 
 
 While awaiting in the gallery of our lodging 
 some change in the state of the weather, one of the 
 Greeks of Ampelachia came in to visit us. He was 
 a merchant, and a man of respectable appearance ; 
 had travelled much in Germany, and spoke the 
 continental languages with fluency. He remained 
 with us half an hour, and gave us some interesting 
 information as to the state of the town and of the 
 surrounding districts. The Greek is uniformly 
 social in his habits ; and the travelled Greek more 
 especially seeks the intercourse of Europeans, with 
 an eagerness proportionate to the change he has felt 
 between the society of civilized communities, and 
 the dull unvarying round of Turkish existence. 
 
 Though it was a part of our projected day's 
 journey to pass through the Vale of Tempe, yet 
 we were compelled to set out under the obscurity 
 of a small rain ; consoling ourselves with the pos-
 
 VALE OF TEMPE. 13 
 
 sibility that we might be more fortunate in re- 
 turning towards Larissa. From the heights of 
 Ampelachia we descended slowly into the valley, 
 reaching the banks of the river, where it enters 
 the deep ravine, which' conducts it towards the 
 sea. Looking generally at the narrowness and ab- 
 ruptness of this mountain-channel, and contrasting 
 it with the course of the Peneus through the 
 plains of Thessaly, the imagination instantly re- 
 curs to the tradition, that these plains were once 
 covered with water, for which some convulsions of 
 nature had subsequently opened this narrow pas- 
 sage. The term vale, in our language, is usually 
 employed to describe scenery, in which the pre- 
 dominant features are breadth,, beauty, and repose. 
 The reader has already perceived that the term is 
 wholly inapplicable to the scenery at this spot ; and 
 that the phrase of Vale of Tempe is one that de- 
 pends on poetic fiction, ignorantly selecting the 
 materials of descriptive allusion, and conveying an 
 innocent error to the imagination of the modern 
 reader. The real character of Tempe, though it 
 perhaps be less beautiful, yet possesses more of 
 magnificence than is implied in the epithet given 
 to it. The features of nature are often best de- 
 scribed by comparison ; and to those who have 
 visited St. Vincent's Rocks below Bristol, I cannot 
 convey a more sufficient idea of Tempe, than by 
 saying that its scenery resembles, though on a much 
 larger scale, that of the former place. The Peneus 
 indeed, as it flows through the valley, is not greatly
 
 14 VALE OF TEMPE. 
 
 wider than the Avon ; and the channel between 
 the cliffs is equally contracted in its dimensions ; 
 but these cliffs themselves are very much loftier 
 and more precipitous; and project their vast masses 
 of rock with more extraorainary abruptness over 
 the hollow beneath. 
 
 The length of this remarkable gulf from west 
 to east is nearly five miles ; its direction in this 
 distance varying but little from a straight * line. 
 Its breadth is varied by the projection or recession 
 of the cliffs ; but there are places in which the bed 
 of the river occupies the whole space between the 
 rocks ; and where the interval from the base of one 
 cliff to that on the other side cannot exceed 200 feet, 
 and possibly may be still less, t In these places, 
 and indeed throughout a great part of the extent 
 of Tempe, the road is carried over and along the 
 ledges of the cliffs ; sometimes seeming to over- 
 hang the river ; then receding to seek a passage 
 across the ravines which descend from the moun- 
 tain. Livy well describes this singular route, — 
 " Rupes utrinque ita abscissae sunt, ut despici vix 
 sine vertigine quadam simul oculorum animique 
 possit. Terret et sonitus et altitudo per mediam 
 vallem fluentis Penei amnis." 
 
 * /Elian speaks of the gulf of Tempe, as being 40 stadia in 
 length ; Livy and Quintus Curtius both state it to be about five 
 miles. Dr. Clarke has given in his Travels an accurate plan 
 of the defile. 
 
 f iElian states the breadth in some places not to exceed a 
 plethrum, or about 100 feet. Var. Hist. lib. iii. 1.
 
 VALE OF TEMPE. 15 
 
 Of the height of the cliffs of Tempe, I cannot 
 speak otherwise than from surmise. Those on the 
 north side, about the middle of the pass, are un- 
 doubtedly the highe-it ; and here they appear to 
 rise from six to eight hundred feet above the level 
 of the river ; passing more gradually afterwards 
 into the mountain-heights to the south of Olympus, 
 of which they may be considered to form the base. 
 Towards the lower part of Tempe, these cliffs are 
 peaked in a very singular manner, and form pro- 
 jecting angles on the vast perpendicular faces of 
 rock, which they present towards the chasm. 
 Where the surface renders it possible, the summits 
 and ledges of the rocks are for the most part 
 covered with small wood, chiefly oak, with the 
 arbutus and other shrubs. On the banks of the 
 river, wherever there is a small interval between 
 the water and the cliffs, it is covered by the rich 
 and widely-spreading foliage of the plane, the oak, 
 and other forest trees, which in these situations 
 have attained a remarkable size, and in various 
 places extend their shade far over the channel of 
 the stream. The ivy winding round many of them 
 may bring to the mind of the traveller the beauti- 
 ful and accurate description of iElian, who has 
 done more justice to the scenery of Tempe than 
 any other writer of antiquity. 
 
 The Peneus, thus secluded alike by the vast 
 cliffs which overhang the valley, and by the trees 
 bordering on its waters, pursues its course through 
 Tempe, a full and rapid stream, little interrupted
 
 16 VALE OF TEMPE. 
 
 in its progress, though flowing between rocks so 
 rude and precipitous in their forms. Ovid's de- 
 scription of it, in his story of Io, is well known : — 
 
 " Spumosis volvitur undis, 
 
 Dejectuque gravi tenues agitantia fumos 
 Nubila conducit, summasque aspergine silvas 
 Impluit, et sonitu plusquam vicina fatigat." * 
 
 At the time I was in Tempe, though the river had 
 been somewhat swelled by rains, there was little of 
 this impetuous violence, but a deep and steady 
 current, capable (as was the case also in former 
 times) of being safely navigated throughout the 
 whole extent of the defile. At this period of 
 wintry floods, the water of the river did not show 
 that clearness for which the Peneus was celebrated 
 by the ancients t, but the streams descending to it 
 from ravines of the mountains, or breaking out 
 suddenly from natural basins in the rock, had a 
 purity which might well suggest the poetic fancy 
 of nymphs presiding over their waters. 
 
 About the middle of the pass on its southern 
 side, and to the right of the road, are some high 
 
 * Ovid. Metam. lib. i. 578. — See also the story of Daphne 
 and Apollo; the scene of which is laid in Tempe. Homer gives 
 the epithet ajyvgo^v*) to the Peneus, as it flows through Tempe. 
 Iliad, lib. ii. 753. 
 
 f Pliny (lib. iv. cap. 8.), in speaking of the rivers of Thessaly, 
 says, " ante cunctos claritate Peneus." 
 
 n xxlx xaXXc;, wj 0El1aX«; to^o; Hmuw. Max. Tyr. Dissert, viii. p. 81. 
 
 This perhaps relates, however, to the scenery on the banks of 
 the river.
 
 VALE OF TEMPE. 17 
 
 ruined walls, composed in part of Roman bricks ; 
 and on a cliff which impends over this spot, stand 
 the remains of an ancient castle, one of those 
 fortresses by which art assisted nature in de- 
 fending this important passage. # Just below 
 these ruins a stream enters the Peneus from the 
 heights of Ossa, the scenery near the junction of 
 which is very extraordinary ; a vast semicircular 
 basin being formed by the cliffs surrounding it, 
 which are every where perpendicular as walls, and 
 of great height. At the time of the Persian inva- 
 sion, the Greeks sent a body of 10,000 men, under 
 Evaenetes and Themistocles, to defend this en- 
 trance into Thessaly ; but on the suggestion that 
 another route was open to Xerxes, over the moun- 
 tains adjoining Olympus, these generals quitted 
 the post, and retired southwards. Had they re- 
 mained here, it is not impossible that Tempo might 
 have been another Thermopylae in the page of 
 history. 
 
 The rocks on each side the Vale of Tempe are 
 evidently the same ; what may be called, I believe, 
 a coarse blueish grey marble, with veins and portions 
 of the rock, in which the marble is of finer quality. 
 The front of the cliffs has a general aspect, to which 
 the term shattered might best be applied ; long 
 fissures, both horizontal and perpendicular, tra- 
 versing the rock, so as to give it frequently the ap- 
 
 * It is probably this castle which Livy describes, as " viae ip6i - , 
 qua et media et angustissima vallis est, impositum, quam vel 
 detem armatis tueri facile est." 
 
 VOL. II. C
 
 18 vale of tempe. 
 
 pearance of being broken into detached masses. In 
 many places large hollows and caverns have been 
 formed; and here the surface is generally much 
 tinged with the oxide of iron. Though it would be too 
 much to affirm, from the character of the cliffs of 
 Tempe, that there is proof of this defile having been 
 formed by a sudden and violent natural convulsion, 
 yet their general appearances, as I have already re- 
 marked, might certainly warrant some belief in the 
 traditionary record of this event, which we have 
 from so many ancient writers. Herodotus, in re- 
 lating the excursion of Xerxes to survey the pass 
 of Tempe, notices the belief common among the 
 Thessalians, that Neptune had opened this passage 
 to carry off the waters from their country, and states 
 his own opinion that the separation of the mountains 
 had been effected by an earthquake. * It is certainly 
 not impossible that the latter surmise may be well 
 founded. The nature of the tradition points at the 
 event as occurring suddenly ; and though we can 
 scarcely suppose that the whole depth of the defile 
 
 * Lib. vii. cap. 129. In the same spirit of splendid folly which 
 led to the undertaking at Athos, it occurred to Xerxes, standing 
 at the entrance of Tempe, that if the Thessalians opposed his 
 progress, their country might again be flooded and destroyed 
 by an artificial mound thrown across the defile, so as to prevent 
 the passage of the Peneus towards the sea. The submission 
 of the Thessalians happily prevented this royal outrage upon 
 humanity. 
 
 Eustathius, in his commentary on the 17th Iliad, mentions the 
 clearance of the waters from the plain of Thessaly by the open- 
 ing of Tempe.
 
 VALE OF TEMPE. 19 
 
 was thus opened, it may be conceived not unlikely 
 that the convulsion of an earthquake had the effect 
 of deepening the channel, and thereby of carrying 
 off the waters from the plain. 
 
 The memory of the event, however accom- 
 plished, was preserved by an annual festival of the 
 ancient towns and villages at the western entrance 
 of Tempe, of which we have an interesting de- 
 scription by ./Elian. The fine allusion of Lucan to 
 this subject is well known to the classical reader.* 
 
 We were extremely unfortunate in the day which 
 conducted us through the scenery of Tempe. The 
 rain of the morning had ceased, but the clouds 
 still hung heavily upon the mountains, and here 
 and there descended below the summit of the cliffs 
 which bound the valley. The foliage too, though yet 
 exhibiting its autumnal tints, had now lost in part 
 that richness and profusion which belong to a less ad- 
 vanced time of the year, and the approach of winter 
 showed itself in all the features of the landscape. 
 While our cavalcade was slowly proceeding down 
 the defile, the Dervish who travelled with us, en- 
 tertained the party by his vociferous Turkish songs, 
 which, in various parts of the pass, were echoed 
 back with singular distinctness from the opposing 
 cliffs. The retrospective view of Tempe from its 
 
 * Flumina dum campi retinent, ncc pervia Tempe 
 Dant aditus pelago, stagnumque implentibus undis 
 Crescere cursus erat; postq tarn discessit Olympo 
 Herculea gravis Ossa manu, subitacque ruinam 
 Sensit aquae Nireus, &c 
 c 2
 
 £0 VALE OF tEMFE. 
 
 eastern extremity is very striking, and scarcely Ies£ 
 so the landscape in front, offering to the eye a 
 sudden change from this contracted mountain 
 scenery to a wide surface of plain, richly wooded, 
 luxuriant in its cultivation, and terminated in front 
 by the sea of the Archipelago, upon which we now 
 looked for the first time. Had the weather been 
 clear, the peninsula of Mount Athos might have 
 been seen from this point ; but at this time we 
 could not even discern the district of the ancient 
 Pallene, which lay immediately opposite to us, 
 forming the eastern boundary of the gulph of 
 Salonica. 
 
 Leaving the defiles of Tempe, and descending: 
 upon the plain, we passed to the north side of the 
 river by a horse-ferry,— -an unworthy substitute for 
 a bridge, half a mile below, which two years since 
 w r as broken down by a winter's flood. The limits of 
 the ancient Macedonia were not very accurately de- 
 fined either on its Thessalian or Illyrian frontier; 
 but below Tempe, it seems to have been generally 
 considered that the Peneus formed the boundary to 
 itS junction with the sea; and in crossing therefore 
 at this ferry, we quitted Thessaly, and entered upon 
 a new region. * The banks of the river here are 
 finely wooded ; and there is much picturesque 
 beauty in the opening out of the valley ; though per- 
 haps on the whole, this approach to Tempe is less 
 remarkable in its scenery than the western etui of 
 
 * Caesar, however, speaks of the Haliacmon as dividing Ma- 
 cedonia from Thessaly.
 
 PYRGETOS. 21 
 
 the pass. A mile or two beyond the ferry, we 
 quitted the direct road to the coast, and proceeded 
 northwards to a small town called Pyrgetos, situated 
 on the declivity of that mountainous tract which ex- 
 tends and rises in this direction, to wards the central 
 heights of Olympus ; and in a westerly direction 
 passes into the cliffs which form the northern 
 boundary of Tempe. At this place we halted for 
 the night, but had some difficulty in procuring a 
 lodging ; our present Tartar, Sulema, showing a 
 temper too mild and easy to be the servant of such a 
 system as now prevails in Turkey. In entering Pyr- 
 getos, we observed four or five small stills at work 
 by the side of the road ; the material of distillation 
 being the raisins of the country, the spirit from 
 which is used, to a considerable extent, in every 
 part of Greece. The interior of the town had a 
 singular aspect, from the galleries and area of every 
 habitation being filled with the ears of Indian corn, 
 hung upon lines for the purpose of drying them. 
 The produce of this grain is very large in the 
 neighbourhood of Pyrgetos. 
 
 The foggy state of the weather concealed from 
 us even the outline of the mountains to the north 
 and north-west of this place, — a circumstance I 
 regretted ; since it was probably by a route over 
 these mountains that the Roman army, under Q. M. 
 Philippus, penetrated into Macedonia during the 
 war with Perseus, the last King of Macedon, when 
 the troops of this • prince prevented the passage 
 through Tempe. Livy gives an interesting account 
 
 c 3
 
 l 2 c 2 PLAIN OF THE PENEUS. 
 
 of the extraordinary difficulties the Romans en- 
 countered in traversing this part of the Olympus 
 chain, especially in their descent from the moun- 
 tains towards the coast. * The country imme- 
 diately round Pyrgetos is well cultivated, and the 
 adjacent vallies, descending from the mountains 
 towards the plain, are picturesque, fertile, and 
 populous j several other small towns or villages en- 
 tering into the landscape from this point of view, t 
 
 On the 26th we proceeded to Litochori, a journey 
 of about six hours. For the first few miles, our 
 route was over the plain, at the mouth of the 
 Peneus, and tending in a north-east direction 
 towards the sea. The appearance of this plain is 
 rich and luxuriant in the extreme ; and what is un- 
 common in Greece, it is divided in part by small 
 enclosures. It is richly wooded over its whole ex- 
 tent ; the trees being chiefly the plane and mulberry, 
 and many of the former remarkable for their large 
 and venerable growth. A great part of the plain is 
 occupied in the culture of maize and wheat, which 
 are principally conveyed to Salonica for exportation. 
 While in this part of our route, we enjoyed a 
 splendid retrospective view of Ossa, and the 
 southern boundary of Tempe ; the summit of the 
 mountain rising above a broad zone of clouds which 
 
 * Lib. xliv. c. 6, 7. &c, 
 
 ■f There is reason to believe that the situation of Gyrton, 
 mentioned by Homer and Strabo, nearly corresponded with that 
 of Pyrgetos. The latter writer speaks of it as at the foot of 
 Olympus, and near the river Peneus. Lib. 7. —Was not the 
 Phila of Livy also somewhere in this vicinity ?
 
 SHORES OF THE ARCHIPELAGO. 23 
 
 hung on the sides of the upper ridge. Its skirts 
 are intersected by many ravines, one of which, in 
 particular, is remarkable for its great depth and ab- 
 ruptness. On the north-eastern declivity of Mount 
 Ossa are several towns and villages ; some of them of 
 considerable size, and almost entirely peopled by 
 Greeks. All this country is finely wooded, and 
 much timber is carried hence to Salonica for 
 exportation. 
 
 At noon on this day, we stood on the shores of 
 the Archipelago, where it runs up to form the 
 deep gulph of Salonica, the Thermaic gulph of 
 antiquity. We now saw distinctly the peninsula 
 which forms the opposite coast; and beyond it, 
 the lofty and singular cone of Mount Athos, fa- 
 mous in the annals of despotic folly. The Pe- 
 neus, after a winding course from Tempe through 
 the plains, enters the sea to the .south of the spot 
 where we now stood. We had followed the progress 
 of this river from its mountainous origin among the 
 heights of Pindus ; watching the gradual increase of 
 its stream, and the various scenery of hills, woods, 
 defiles, and plains, through which it has its course. 
 It had become in some sort a companion of our jour- 
 ney, and we now quitted its banks as if parting from 
 an old friend. 
 
 Coasting the sea for some distance, we came to 
 the castle of Platomana, a large and irregular 
 group of buildings, surrounded by a lofty wall, 
 and situated on a rocky promontory overhanging 
 the sea. A stream flows through a deep channel to 
 
 c 4
 
 24 PLATOMANA. 
 
 the south of this promontory, crossing which we 
 entered a pass between the castle and the hills to 
 the left. This point is the commencement of that 
 narrow stripe of country, intervening between the 
 base of Olympus and the sea, which formed the 
 great passage from Thessaly into Macedonia, and 
 which was the principal scene of the two campaigns 
 that put an end to the sovereignty and race of the 
 Macedonian kings. It may be presumed that the 
 eminence of Platomana was the site of the ancient 
 Heraclea, a town which was besieged by a detach- 
 ment of the Roman army under Q. M. Philippus ; 
 and taken by the employment of the tesludo ; one 
 body of troops forming an inclined platform by the 
 elevation of their shields above the head, while 
 others ascending this, were enabled to surmount, 
 the elevation of the walls, and to enter the * town. 
 We stopped some time at a village in the pass, to 
 make a meal on maize-bread, chesnuts, and wine ; 
 but were not allowed to enter the castle, which is 
 guarded by a small body of Albanian soldiers. The 
 arbutus (arbutus andrachne) grows in considerable 
 quantity on the rocks in this vicinity ; and Deme- 
 trius added to our repast by gathering some of the 
 berries, the appearance and flavour of which are 
 well known. It will be recollected that the davit 
 
 * See Livy, lib. xliv. 8, 9. The description leaves little 
 doubt that Heraclea was on the site of Platomana. This place 
 is now the seat of a Greek bishopric, the jurisdiction of which 
 extends to Ampelachia, Kapshani, and other Greek towns in 
 this district.
 
 VALLEY OF THE ENIPEUS. £3 
 
 arlruta silvce is used by Virgil in describing the 
 winter ; and though now the latter end of Novem- 
 ber, these berries were yet not entirely ripe. 
 
 From Platomana to Litochori is an open country, 
 descending from the base of Olympus to the sea, 
 and intersected by several vallies, which bring down 
 the waters from the eastern side of this mountain. 
 The most- considerable of these vallies, which opens 
 out from a deep and rocky ravine, is probably that 
 of the Enipeus ; an important point in the cam- 
 paign between the Romans and Macedonians, 
 which terminated in the entire defeat of the latter 
 at Pydna. The Macedonian King Perseus had 
 strongly fortified the banks of this river during the 
 preceding year ; but the celebrated Paullus JEmi- 
 lius compelled him to retire from this post, by 
 sending Scipio Nasica with five thousand men 
 through the mountains of Olympus, to threaten 
 the rear of his army. For two or three days pre- 
 viously to the retreat of Perseus, an irregular com- 
 bat was carried on between the two armies in the 
 valley ; chiefly as a feint on the part of P. iEmilius, 
 but with loss to the Romans, from the missile 
 weapons thrown upon them from the Macedonian 
 fortresses. The present appearance of this valley 
 entirely coincides with the description of Livy, and 
 illustrates well the narrativeof the historian. * 
 
 During the remainder of our way to Litochori, 
 we were so much enveloped in fog, that the land- 
 scape was entirely shut out from us ; and in arriv- 
 
 * Lib. xliv. 35. Sec also lib. xliv. 8.
 
 26 MINERALOGICAL REMARKS. 
 
 ing at this place, which stands at the very foot of 
 Olympus, every part of the mountain was concealed 
 from our view. We found a small and wretched 
 town, the houses of which are scattered over a 
 surface of rock so rugged and unequal, that it was 
 with difficulty we could make our way to the habi- 
 tation of the Aga commanding the place. He 
 appointed our lodging in a Greek house surrounded 
 by rude fragments and ridges of rock, and seeming 
 itself as if nodding to its fall. The family were 
 greatly alarmed by our arrival, and shut themselves 
 up in an outer apartment, scarcely appearing until 
 the moment of our departure. An old decrepit 
 woman was sent to attend upon us, from whom we 
 could obtain little more than the phrases, Aev e£eugw 
 or Aev xuTuXupgatM, " I don't know," and " I don't 
 understand," in reply to all the questions we pro- 
 posed to her. The state of the weather, and our 
 vicinity to the snows of Olympus, made us pass a 
 very cold night here ; and the people of Litochori 
 have yet more reason than those of Eubcea, to give 
 the name of Olympias to the wind coming down 
 upon them from this mountain. In summer, how- 
 ever, the climate as well as the aspect of the place 
 is probably rendered delightful by its situation un- 
 derneath these heights. 
 
 The rock on the coast about Platomana is marble, 
 and of fine quality, as may be seen in various places 
 near the promontory on which the castle stands. 
 On the way from theuce to Litochori, the descent 
 between Olympus and the sea is chiefly covered with
 
 MOUNT OLYMPUS. 27 
 
 fragments of a coarse conglomerate, composed 
 from different primitive rocks, and containing a 
 large proportion of marble. The houses and walls 
 in Litochori are built in great measure of this 
 conglomerate, which I found also scattered over 
 the surface, in continuing our route northwards to 
 Katrina. Among the primitive fragments, I 
 noticed a few of serpentine. These general ob- 
 servations, with what has been previously men- 
 tioned of the primitive slate country near Zarko, 
 may lead to the inference, that the whole of the 
 Olympus group is composed of primitive rocks ; 
 an opinion I was prevented from actually verifying 
 by the season of the year, and in part also by the 
 thick fogs which hung over us for three successive 
 days, while traversing this country. * These fogs 
 were such as entirely to hide the mountain ; and 
 but for one half hour on the morning we quitted 
 Litochori, we travelled at its foot, with nothing 
 but fancy to give the outline and height. This 
 transient view, however, was extremely magnificent, 
 and rendered even more so by its suddenness and 
 partial obscurity. We had not before been aware 
 of the extreme vicinity of the town to the base of 
 Olympus ; but when leaving it on the 27th, and 
 accidentally looking back, we saw through an 
 opening in the fog, a faint outline of vast preci- 
 pices, seeming almost to overhang the place ; and 
 so aerial in their aspect, that for a few minutes 
 
 * In Dr. Sibthorpe's collection at Oxford, there are specimens 
 of marble with the locality of Olympus attached to them.
 
 28 MOUNT OLYMPUS. 
 
 we doubted whether it might not be a delusion to 
 the eye. The fog, however, dispersed yet more on 
 this side, and partial openings were made j through 
 which, as through , arches, we saw the sun -beams 
 resting on the snowy summits of Olympus, which 
 rose into a dark blue sky, far above the belt of 
 clouds and mist that hung upon the sides of the 
 mountain. There was something peculiar in the 
 manner of seeing this spot, which accorded well 
 with the mythology that made it a residence of the 
 gods ; and looking to such association with ancient 
 times, the distinct outline of Olympus under a 
 summer sky might have been less imposing than 
 this broken and partial display of its form, which 
 seemed almost to separate it from the world below. 
 The transient view we had of the mountain from 
 this point showed us a line of precipices, of vast 
 height, forming its eastern front toward the sea ; 
 and broken at intervals by deep hollows or ravines, 
 which were richly clothed with forest-trees. The 
 oak, chesnut, beech, plane-tree, &c. are seen in 
 great abundance along the base and skirts of the 
 mountain ; and towards the summit of the first 
 ridge large forests of pine spread themselves along 
 the acclivities, giving that character to the face of 
 the mountain which is so often alluded to by the 
 ancient poets.* Behind this first ridge, others rise 
 
 * Ter sunt conati iniponere Pelio Ossam 
 
 Scilicet, atque Ossae frondosum involvere Oljmpum. 
 
 Virg. Gcorg. i, 28] . 
 Horace (Lib. iii. Od. 4.) speaks of the " opaco Olympo;'' and, 
 alluding to the same story, Seneca (Agaraem. v. 337.) calls it 
 ■■ pinifer Olympus."
 
 MOUNT OLYMPUS. 29 
 
 vip and recede towards the loftier central heights of 
 Olympus, now covered, as already described, with 
 the snows of winter. Almost opposite the town of 
 Litochori, a vast ravine penetrates into the interior 
 of the mountain, through the opening of which we 
 saw, though only for a few minutes, what I con- 
 ceive to be the summit — from this point of view, 
 an obtuse cone, with a somewhat concave ascend- 
 ing line on each side. The sides of this ravine 
 exhibit mural precipices of extraordinary height, 
 and here and there the appearances of stratification 
 were shown by the snow lying on the edges of the 
 strata. Our view, however, was too short and 
 obscure to allow many observations of this nature. 
 It is said that snow frequently lies on certain 
 parts of Olympus during the whole year. The 
 ascent of the mountain, however, is perfectly prac- 
 ticable in the summer-season, and a small Greek 
 chapel has even been constructed near the summit, 
 where service is performed once a-year, with sin- 
 gular contrast to the old mythology of the spot. 
 The highest habitation on the mountain is the 
 monastery of St. Dionysius on its eastern side, and 
 in the route which conducts towards the * summit. 
 The height of Olympus may probably be consi- 
 dered as between six and seven thousand feet. 
 Plutarch tells us that the philosopher Xenagoras 
 ascertained its elevation to be ten stadra, and nearly 
 one plethrum, which would be a little below this 
 
 * Sonnini, in his Travels, describes the ascent of Olympus, to 
 which he made an excursion from Salonica.
 
 30 SITE OF THE AMCIENT DIUM. 
 
 estimate. * Bemouilli, however, (Memoires de 
 l'Academie des Sciences, 1699.) gives the height 
 at 1017 toises, or somewhat above it. I am not 
 aware that this point has ever been barometrically 
 ascertained. 
 
 From Litochori we proceeded to the town of 
 Katrina, a journey of only twelve miles, but ren- 
 dered comfortless by fogs and heavy rain, under 
 the oppression of which even our Dervish lost his 
 melody and merriment. The clouds soon closed 
 again over Olympus, as if too sacred a spot to be 
 long beheld ; and we saw it only once again during 
 a four hours' ride along the plain which lies at its 
 foot. We deviated somewhat from our road to a 
 small scala, or port, upon the coast, with the design 
 of seeking a passage by sea to Salonica ; but though 
 there were several barks here already laden for that 
 city, the wind was so adverse that none of them 
 would attempt the passage. The loading of these 
 vessels was chiefly wool, the produce of the great 
 flocks of sheep which feed on the mountains of the 
 Olympus chain, and in the northern part of 
 Thessaly. 
 
 The site of the ancient Dium must have been in 
 this vicinity, — a city which formed an important 
 point in the war already alluded to between the 
 Romans and Perseus ; and which, though not 
 large, yet might boast its temple of Jupiter, its for- 
 tifications, and the statues which adorned its public 
 
 * Plut. in vit. P. JEnjil.
 
 ANCIENT HALIACMON. 31 
 
 places. * The temple of Dium was in part des- 
 troyed by Scopas the iEtolian general, during the 
 time of the last Philip of Macedon. t At present I 
 am not aware that there are any remains to testify 
 its exact site. The place was important as a mili- 
 tary position, from the small interval which here 
 occurs between the base of Olympus and the sea. 
 Livy and Strabo both describe the distance as 
 being about a mile : but it is probable that the 
 land here has gained in some measure upon the 
 sea, since it did not appear to me that there was 
 any point where the interval was so small. It is 
 not unlikely that a stream which flows to the sea 
 just beyond the scala may be the river Buphyris of 
 Livy ; and that an extensive marsh which it forms 
 in its progress through the plain may be the ostium 
 late restagnans, which he describes as contracting 
 the space between the mountain and the sea. 
 
 At the distance of two miles beyond this marsh 
 we forded, though not without much difficulty, a 
 large and rapid river, which is doubtless the Hali- 
 acmon of antiquity, descending from the mountains 
 to the north-west of Olympus, t These mountains, 
 by the partial clearing up of the fog, we now saw 
 forming a great sweep to the west and north, and 
 
 * See Liv. lib. xliv. 7. Thucyd. lib. iv. 78. 
 
 f Polyb. lib. iv. G2. This historian mentions also a gymna- 
 sium here. 
 
 £ The modern name of this river I was told to be Specioto. 
 but the editors of the French Strabo (torn. iii. p. 124.) speak of 
 it as the Ienicora.
 
 32 . KATRINA. 
 
 leaving towards the gulph of Salonica a wide extent 
 of plain country, the Pieria of the ancients.* This 
 district, which may be regarded as a part of the 
 great plains of Macedonia, presents to the eye a 
 fertile and pleasing aspect, and is richly wooded 
 throughout a great part of its extent. It is chiefly 
 from this part of the coast, and from the more im- 
 mediate skirts of Olympus and Ossa, that the 
 timber is obtained, which forms so important a 
 branch of the export trade of Salonica. Some of 
 the chesnut and plane trees which we passed on 
 our route were of very remarkable size ; and we 
 noticed also much fine oak-timber, well fitted for 
 the purposes of ship-building. 
 
 Katrina is a small town situated on the plain two 
 or three miles to the north of the river, and sur- 
 rounded by much wood. It contains about 300 
 houses, some of them of large size ; and a mosque^ 
 which has a picturesque character from the trees 
 that environ it. We obtained a lodging here in 
 the house formerly occupied by the Aga of the 
 town, but recently purchased by Veli Pasha, and 
 tenanted at this time by one of his grammatikoi, or 
 Greek secretaries. This man received us hospi- 
 
 * The district of Pieria is stated by Ptolemy to extend from 
 the Peneus to the Lydias ; but according to Strabo it begins to 
 the north of the Haliacmon, and extends northwards along the 
 coast to the mouth of the Axius or Vardari. The mountains 
 extending to the west and north of Olympus are probably the 
 Cambunian Mountains of antiquity; a narrow passage aver 
 which conducted from Pieria into the district of Perrheebia ant! 
 Thessaly. See Liv. lib. xlii. 53. 
 
 10
 
 Katrina. 33 
 
 tably, and provided us with a dinner, fruit, and 
 other necessaries. A Greek of Livadia and two 
 Zantiotes, travelling from Salonica to Larissa, ar- 
 rived at Katrina about the same time as ourselves, 
 and were also quartered in this house. After our 
 repast, we were drawn by the sounds of music into 
 the adjoining apartment, where we found the 
 Dervish seated by a blazing fire on the hearth, and 
 amusing a large assemblage of people with his 
 mandolin, accompanied by the voice. The chords 
 of this instrument, which by the Turks is called 
 sarchi, are upwards of three feet in length. The 
 Dervish played with some skill and variety of exe- 
 cution. His vocal music, which was all Turkish, 
 was of a wild and uncouth cast, some of it warlike, 
 an*d celebrating the triumphs of his nation, sung 
 with a good deal of emphasis, but every-where 
 broken and irregular. He was silently but atten- 
 tively listened to by Sulema and our other Turkish 
 companion, who sat on a couch near him, smoking 
 their pipes. This was one groupe in the apart- 
 ment. On the other side of the fire, the Livadian 
 Greek, the two Zantiotes, and the secretary were 
 playing at cards on the floor, and in the back part 
 of the room was a numerous groupe of attendants, 
 chiefly Albanian soldiers, who listened to the songs 
 of the Dervish with great seeming intentness and 
 satisfaction. This singular scene continued till a 
 late hour of the evening. 
 
 Katrina being a post-town, we left here the 
 post-horses which had brought us from Larissa, 
 
 VOL. II. I)
 
 84 DRESS Of THE TARTAR SCJLEMA. 
 
 but found much difficulty in replacing them ; and 
 were compelled to pay even nine piastres for each 
 horse, in hiring others to carry us to the place 
 where we proposed to embark for Salonica, a dis- 
 tance of less than fifteen miles. It was evident, 
 that we suffered from an imposition, which the 
 Buyrouldi and Tartar of Ali Pasha would easily 
 have obviated. But those of his son were more 
 feeble, and the cares of the Tartar Sulema were 
 directed to his dress and personal comforts, rather 
 than to the service of our journey. Foppery exists 
 under all latitudes and every form of national 
 costume, and it was strikingly exhibited in the in- 
 stance of this man. No petit-maitre of an European 
 metropolis could be more scrupulously nice in the 
 arrangement of his dress, nor any perhaps boast' of 
 so much positive richness of attire, as our Tartar of 
 Larissa. He usually wore two or three vests of 
 purple velvet, all profusely embroidered ; his under 
 robe was made of a rich shawl-piece ; round his 
 waist were wrapped as a girdle three shawls, the 
 outer one of common quality, the others of the 
 finest manufacture, and between three and four 
 yards in length. His manner of putting on these 
 shawls was by fixing one end of each of them, and 
 then turning himself within it from the other end, 
 so as to draw the shawl tightly and uniformly 
 round his waist. His arms consisted of two large 
 pistols, the handles plated with silver, and so 
 decorated, that each was worth c 250 piastres. I 
 believe there would be no exaggeration in estimat-
 
 FIELD OF BATTLE AT PYDNA. 35 
 
 ing the value of his whole apparel at more than 
 1001., besides what he carried with him in a 
 leathern case as a change on the journey. 
 
 On the 28th we travelled only to Leuterochori, 
 a village about four hours' journey to the north of 
 Katrina. Heavy and incessant rain, coming with 
 a cold wind from the chain of Olympus, fell upon 
 us the whole way ; the roads were in many places 
 almost impassable, and the country without in- 
 terest ; so at least it seemed with the other impres- 
 sions of the moment. The general surface over 
 which we passed is plane, intersected however by 
 many small vallies descending towards the sea, 
 which no where is distant more than four miles from 
 the road. Judging from the soil, the country must 
 be of calcareous formation. It is tolerably well cul- 
 tivated, and produces much grain. 
 
 About five miles from Katrina, we traversed a 
 valley of some breadth, through which flow one of 
 two small rivers, and ascended afterwards a low 
 ridge of hil], on which stood the town of Kitros. 
 This town is upon, or very near to the site of 
 Pydna -, a city rendered remarkable as the scene of 
 that battle in which P. ^Emilius defeated Perseus, 
 and destroyed the kingdom of Macedon. The im- 
 mediate place of action was in the valley, and on 
 the banks of the streams mentioned above, the 
 ancient names of which were the ^son and 
 Lycus. * The nature of the ground in its present 
 
 * See Plut. in vit. L. P. iEmilii. — It appears from Strabo 
 that the name of Pydna was changed to Kkron before hie time, 
 
 D 2
 
 36 TUTROS. 
 
 state accurately accords with the narrative of his- 
 tory, and illustrates well the circumstances of thi& 
 event. The Macedonian army^ retiring from their 
 fortresses on the Enipeus, in apprehension of 
 Scipio's coming upon their rear, took post on the 
 northern side of this valley in front of Pydna. 
 The Roman army arrived soon afterwards on the 
 southern bank of the river y and one night inter- 
 vened in this relative position before the battle 
 took place. This night was signalized by a total 
 eclipse of the moon \ an event for which the saga- 
 city of P. ^Emilius had already prepared his army* 
 but which was unexpected by the Macedonians;, 
 and produced great terror in their ranks. * The 
 battle took place the next day on the banks of the 
 river ; the enthusiasm of the Romans, seconded by 
 the prudence of their general, speedily overcame 
 the enemy, and the Macedonian army was almost 
 wholly destroyed. We are told that 20,000 were 
 slain on the field,, and that the number of prisoners 
 exceeded 10,000* Perseus himself fled through 
 the forests of Pieria to Pella, aud was some time 
 afterwards made a prisoner in Samothrace. 
 
 Kitros is a small town, chiefly inhabited by 
 Turks, and containing a mosque which stands on 
 the summit of the ridge of hill. The enquiries I 
 
 though Wesseling lias supposed that the passage stating this 
 may have been interpolated by pome later hand. It is the Ci- 
 tium of Livy, lib. xlii. c. 51. 
 
 * See the narrative*' of Livy and Plutarch. 
 10
 
 LEUTEROCHORI. 87 
 
 made respecting any ancient remains in the vici- 
 nity procured me no information. We had suffered 
 so much from cold during our ride, that we re- 
 mained here half an hour in the stable of a Khan, 
 where we found a large fire blazing on the ground, 
 with six or eight Turks crouched on mats around 
 it. With some difficulty we made our way into the 
 circle, and at any other time might have been re- 
 pelled by the looks of ferocious haughtiness which 
 were cast upon us, and by the opprobrious epithets 
 which were at the same time muttered by several 
 of the party. In Albania and the southern parts 
 of Greece these things now seldom occur between 
 Turks and travellers from the west of Europe ; but 
 in this district the Turkish population is propor- 
 tionably much greater, and intercourse has done 
 less to soften the prejudices of the nation. 
 
 From Kitros a ride of five miles brought us to 
 Leuterochori (the free village') situated on an 
 eminence within two miles of the gulph. This 
 place must correspond nearly with the site of 
 Methone, the city where Philip, while besieging 
 it, lost his right eye by an arrow shot from the 
 walls. * We decided on passing the night here, 
 but had much difficulty in finding a lodging. The 
 commandant, a rough Albanian soldier, though 
 Sulema showed him the passport of Veli Pasha, re- 
 fused at first to do any thing for us, alleging that 
 he knew no other order but that of Ali Pasha. We 
 
 * Strabo describes Methone as 10 stadia to the north of 
 Pydna. 
 
 D 3
 
 38 LEUTEROCHORI. 
 
 sent again to say that we were friends of the Vizier, 
 and had visited him at Ioannina ; and my Turkish 
 sabre was shown by way of producing, if possible, 
 further conviction. By the influence of these rea- 
 sons we at length obtained admission into the house 
 of the commandant himself, who treated us during 
 the rest of the evening with a sort of boisterous 
 civility, which was apparently meant to compensate 
 for the mode of our hrst reception. The naked 
 mud walls of his mansion could afford indeed little 
 more than shelter from the weather ; but this we 
 felt as no mean advantage on a stormy evening at 
 the end of November. 
 
 This district is the most easterly part of the 
 territory of Ali Pasha, and the point at which he 
 approaches nearest to Constantinople. It was for- 
 merly mentioned that his acquisitions in the region 
 of the ancient Macedonia comprize four large 
 cantons, stretching westwards from that part of the 
 Pindus chain about Ochrida, Kastoria, «&c. to the 
 head of the gulph of Salonica. Here commences 
 the territory governed by Ishmael Bey of Seres; 
 who, though comparatively feeble in his power, yet 
 forms an important barrier to the progress of Ali 
 Pasha, in his position, and in the resources he de- 
 rives from the natural wealth of the country. 
 
 On the morning of the 29th we proceeded to the 
 coast, and embarked in a small bark for Salonica, 
 accompanied by several Albanian soldiers and pea- 
 sants. The distance of Salonica from this point 
 does not exceed twenty miles, but calms or con-
 
 PASSAGE ACROSS THE GULPH TO SALONICA. 39 
 
 trary wind kept us nearly eight hours on tiie pas- 
 sage. Our course lay across the guiph, at a short 
 distance from its upper extremity, where the great 
 plains of Macedonia terminate in extensive marshes 
 and lagoons, through which the two large rivers, 
 the Vardari and the Vistritza, flow to the sea. Of 
 these rivers, the Vardari is the most considerable, 
 rising from the mountains in the centre of the con- 
 tinent of Turkey, and bringing down a large and 
 constant body of water. This was the Axius of 
 antiquity, to which Homer applies the name of 
 the wide- flowing *, and on which stood Pella, the 
 capital of the Macedonian kings, at the distance of 
 about fourteen miles from its mouth. The Vistritza 
 seems to have been either the Lydias or Erigon ; 
 but now, as formerly, the rivers communicate by 
 different branches, while flowing through these 
 marshy plains ; and not impossibly have undergone 
 many changes in their course. The head of the 
 gulph is rendered very shallow by the alluvial de- 
 positions, which are doubtless still going on in this 
 situation, and which eventually may much impede 
 the navigation of the port. At present the shoals 
 form good fishing-grounds, and numerous boats 
 are constantly engaged in this occupation for the 
 supply of Salonica, and other towns on the coast. 
 
 The approach to this city from the sea is very 
 imposing. It is seen from a great distance, placed 
 on the acclivity of a steep hill, which rises from 
 
 * Iliad, lib. ii. 819. 
 D 4<
 
 40 PASSAGE ACROSS THE GULPH TO SALONICA. 
 
 the gulph at its north-eastern extremity ; surrounded 
 by lofty stone-walls, which ascend in a triangular 
 form from the sea, and surmounted by a fortress 
 with seven towers. The domes and minarets 
 of numerous mosques rise from among the other 
 buildings ; surrounded, as usual, by cypresses, and 
 giving a general air of splendour to the place. In 
 approaching the city, we passed among the nume- 
 rous vessels which afford proof of its increasing 
 commerce ; and at six in the evening came up to 
 one of the principal quays, the avenues of which 
 were still crowded with porters, boatmen, and 
 sailors, and covered with goods of various de- 
 scription.
 
 41 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 SALONICA. ENGLISH CONSUL HERE. HISTORY AND DE- 
 SCRIPTION OF THE CITY. MOSQUES OF SANTA SOPHIA 
 
 AND ST. DEMETRIUS. — ANTIQUITIES OF SALONICA. PO- 
 PULATION AND CHARACTER OF SOCIETY. — GERMAN RESI- 
 DENTS. COMMERCE OF THE PLACE. SKETCH OF THE 
 
 OVERLAND TRADE TO GERMANY. ISHMAEL BEY OF 
 
 SERES. 
 
 It was already dark when we landed on the quay 
 of Salonica, and we found upon enquiry that we 
 could not obtain access to the interior of the city, 
 the gates being always closed at sunset. We were 
 directed, however, to a Turkish coffee-house, near 
 the place of landing, where we found a large room, 
 divided by railing into four elevated compartments, 
 one of which was allotted to us. The others were 
 occupied by various groupes of people, Turks, 
 Greeks, and Albanians ; some sleeping, some 
 smoking, others singing or in loud conversation. 
 The Dervish who accompanied us hither, was as 
 usual one of the merriest and most noisy in the 
 apartment. He brought out his mandolin, chaunted 
 his Turkish songs with the same vociferation as 
 heretofore, and with a seeming defiance of all wea- 
 riness, continued this occupation till a late hour of
 
 ¥1 SALON IC A. 
 
 the night. The Turks who were smoking around 
 him, appeared to derive enjoyment from his music, 
 though this enjoyment could not be inferred from 
 what is the common manner of its expression among 
 other people. It may be doubted, perhaps, if the 
 Turk be liable to many strong emotions of mind ; 
 but whether this be so or not, it is certain that the 
 external demonstration of feeling is unknown to his 
 national habits, and among his countrymen would 
 even be considered as disgraceful to his personal cha- 
 racter. The pipe taken for a short time from the 
 mouth, and something more of intentness given to 
 the eye, are usually the only tokens of his feeling 
 interest in what is passing before him, and any more 
 direct expression of pleasure is seldom obtained. 
 This might be accepted as a stoical virtue of charac- 
 ter, were it not soon found that neither knowledge 
 nor thought are present under the gravity of 
 Turkish demeanour; and that it is at best but the 
 formal apathy of habit, which hangs thus heavily 
 upon the countenance and manners of this people. 
 We passed the night surrounded by at least 
 twenty people ; and the following morning rose at 
 an early hour to make room for the Turks, who 
 came in great numbers to take their coffee in the 
 apartment. While breakfasting in the midst of 
 them, we dispatched Sulema with our letters to 
 Yusuf Bey, the governor of the city. This was 
 done rather as a matter of form, than from any 
 likelihood of advantage, as we had now learnt on 
 what terms the families of Ali Pasha, and of Ishmaej
 
 SALONICA. 43 
 
 Bey the father of Yusuf, stand to each other, and 
 how little was to be expected from any recommend- 
 ation between these parties. In Salonica, fortu- 
 nately there was no need of such recommendation ; 
 the presence of an English consul, and of a consi- 
 derable Frank population, affording every com- 
 fort to the residence of the stranger in this city. 
 We waited this morning on Mr. Charnaud, the 
 English consul, a gentleman to whom we were in- 
 debted for many attentions during our stay at Sa- 
 lonica. He is of a Levant family, and has now 
 resided in this city more than twenty years. His 
 lady, who is a native of Holland, and his daughters, 
 who have never quitted Turkey, are unacquainted 
 with the English language, but speak the Romaic 
 with fluency, and as their ordinary medium of in- 
 tercourse. At their dinner table, we found some 
 approach to the English manner of living, but com- 
 bined with that common throughout the south of 
 Europe. The Frank families, which have long re- 
 sided in the Levant, gradually lose their several 
 national characteristics, and become more iden- 
 tified with the habits of the country in which they 
 live ; and, unless within the precincts of a factory, 
 the traveller might often seek in vain to find the 
 relation between a national name, and the features 
 of the individuals who bear it. 
 
 A striking instance of this occurred to our notice, 
 in the family of Mr. Abbott, an English merchant 
 of Salonica. A residence of more than half a cen- 
 tury in various parts of the Turkish empire, has
 
 44 SALONICA. 
 
 taken from Mr. Abbott every thing English but his 
 name, and an imperfect knowledge of the language. 
 He wears the dress of the country, speaks the 
 Turkish almost as his native tongue, associates 
 chiefly with Turks, and might easily be mistaken 
 by the stranger for one of this nation. Of his long 
 residence abroad, forty-two years have been passed 
 at Salonica ; thirteen in the northern part of Asia 
 Minor. He married a Greek lady of the latter 
 country ; and his son, the only person in the family 
 who speaks English, is also married to a female of 
 the same nation. We dined once or twice at Mr. 
 Abbott's table during our stay at Salonica. The 
 usages of his house differed little from those of 
 common Greek society ; and the ladies of the fa- 
 mily in particular were scrupulous in their observ- 
 ation of the Greek fast, one period of which had 
 just commenced with all its severities of denial. 
 
 By the assistance of Mr. Charnaud, we procured 
 a lodging in the house of an old Frenchman of 
 decayed fortunes, who has long resided in Salonica. 
 We had wished that our Tartar should take up his 
 abode in the same house ; but the females of the 
 family, who were all Greeks, expressed themselves 
 in terms of such horror at this plan, that we were 
 compelled to change it, and to send Sulema to the 
 coffee-house, where we had lodged on the first night 
 of our arrival. 
 
 The first two or three days of our residence at 
 Salonica were chiefly occupied in surveying the in- 
 terior of this city, well known to antiquity under
 
 ttlSTOUY OF SALONICA. 45 
 
 the name of Thessalonica, and at the present time 
 one of the most considerable towns in European 
 Turkey. The still more ancient name of the 
 place was Therma ; derived, in common with that 
 of the gulph, from hot springs which still exist in 
 several places upon the coast. The Macedonian 
 Cassander, who enlarged and embellished the city 
 so as to merit the title of its founder, gave it the 
 uame of Thessalonica in compliment to his wife, 
 the daughter of Philip of Macedon. Cicero resided 
 here some time during his banishment from Rome ; 
 and many of his letters to Atticus, who was then at 
 his estate in Epirus, are dated from Thessalonica. 
 At the period when the Apostle Paul visited the 
 place, it appears to have been large, populous, and 
 wealthy, and the Byzantine historians speak much 
 of its splendour and importance. * The massacre 
 of 15,000 of its inhabitants, from the sudden fury 
 of Theodosius, is well known to history ; as well as 
 the severe expiation required of that monarch by 
 the intrepid Ambrose. In the decline of the Greek 
 empire, the city was taken by William of Sicily, 
 and at a still later period made over by one of the 
 Pala?ologi to the Venetians. The latter, however, 
 enjoyed their possession but a few years, Thessalo- 
 nica falling into the power of the Turks in 1431, to 
 whose empire it has ever since been subject. 
 
 * See the description of Thessalonica by Ioannes Cameniates 
 in his narrative of the capture of the city by the Barbarians (during 
 the time of Leo ?). Also the exclamatory eulogium of Deme. 
 trius Cydonius in describing the same event. Tzetzes, in his 
 Chiliads, speaks of Thessalonica a? wo?u? Xaurr^orxm.
 
 46 DESCRIPTION OF SALON1CA. 
 
 In its present state, Salonica is exceeded in po- 
 pulation only by Constantinople, and possibly by 
 Adrianople, among the cities of European Turkey ; 
 and in the extent of its commerce is probably second 
 to the capital alone. Its general situation and the 
 magnificence of its external appearance have al- 
 ready been noticed. Thfe circumference of the 
 city, as determined by the walls, probably exceeds 
 five miles. This included area has the form of an 
 irregular triangle ; the sea-wall being the base, and 
 the apex of the triangle being formed by the castle, 
 which surmounts and commands the town. Nearly 
 the whole of this area is occupied by buildings,, 
 only a small interval of rocky ground being left 
 between the city and the fortress. The interior of 
 Salonica presents the same irregularity, and many 
 of the same deformities, which are common in 
 Turkish towns. The rapid ascent of the hill di- 
 minishes this evil in the upper part of the town ; 
 and on the whole, as respects cleanliness and in- 
 ternal comfort, Salonica may contrast favourably 
 with most other places in Turkey of large size and 
 population. It certainly gains greatly in the com- 
 parison, if activity of business be admitted as a cri- 
 terion of superiority. Except in those quarters 
 where the principal Turks reside, there is a general 
 appearance of life and movement which forms a 
 striking contrast to the monotony of a Turkish 
 town. The quays are covered with goods ; nu- 
 merous groupes of people are occupied about the 
 ships or the warehouses 5 and the Bazars are well
 
 DESCRIPTION OF SALONICA. 4? 
 
 stocked, and perpetually crowded with buyers and 
 sellers. They are in fact chiefly Greeks or Jews 
 who are thus occupied ; people ever ready to seize 
 any opening which may be offered to commercial 
 industry, and ever ingenious in meeting and frus- 
 trating the political oppressions under which they 
 labour. At the time whip we visited Salonica, the 
 great and sudden influx of trade to that port had 
 afforded an opening of the most favourable kind ; 
 and the character of Yusuf Bey's government was 
 such, as not in any material degree to check the 
 progress of industry. 
 
 The style of building in Salonica is entirely 
 Turkish ; and as in Ioannina, the houses of the 
 principal inhabitants, Greeks as well as Turks, have 
 small areas connected with them, generally ocr 
 cupied by a few trees. The foliage intermixed 
 with the buildings, however, forms a much less 
 striking object here than in Ioannina; and the 
 general appearance of the city is that of greater 
 compactness and uniformity. The Bazars, which 
 are situated in the lower part of the town, are very 
 extensive, forming several long but narrow streets. 
 As is common in this country, they are shaded 
 either by trellises with vines, or by projecting 
 wooden sheds, with branches of trees thrown across. 
 The dealers, as I have already stated, are princi- 
 pally Greeks and Jews, with a large proportion of 
 the latter nation. The shops are well filled with 
 manufactured goods and colonial produce ; but in 
 jewellery, shawls, and the richer articles of Oriental
 
 48 MOSQUES OP STA. SOPHIA AND ST. DEMETRIUS. 
 
 dress, appear to be somewhat inferior to those of 
 Ioannina. In looking through the Bazars, we ob- 
 served a great abundance of caviare exposed to sale 
 in the different shops. The sturgeon, from which 
 this is obtained, is caught in the Black Sea ; and 
 the caviare is brought thence in large quantity, for 
 the supply of the Greeks in different parts of 
 Turkey, who make much use of this article during 
 the long fasts prescribed by their religion. 
 
 The number of minarets in Salonica contributes 
 to the external magnificence of the city ; and some 
 of the mosques to which these belong, are worthy of 
 notice from their size and antiquity. Attended by 
 a Janissary, in the service of Mr. Charnaud, we 
 visited the two most considerable ; formerly the 
 Greek churches of Santa Sophia, and St. Deme- 
 trius, but now converted to the purposes of the 
 Mohammedan worship. The Santa Sophia was 
 erected by the command of Justinian ; the model of 
 the edifice, though on a much larger scale, being 
 the celebrated church of that name at Constanti- 
 nople, and Arthemias the architect of both. There 
 is something venerable and imposing in the ap- 
 proach to this building. It stands in the midst of 
 an area, shaded by cypresses and other ancient 
 trees ; a large marble fountain is opposite to the 
 great doors of the church ; and detached portions 
 of the original edifice, now partly in a ruinous 
 state, are seen at intervals through the trees. We 
 entered the interior of the mosque, — a privilege 
 depending upon usage, which in all cases is omiu«
 
 MOSQUES OF STA. SOPHIA AND ST. DEMETRIUS. 49 
 
 potent among the Turks. The floor, as is usual in 
 Mohammedan churches, is entirely covered with 
 mats or carpeting, upon which were kneeling in 
 different places eighteen or twenty Turks, each 
 singly and silently engaged in religious worship. 
 With whatever sentiment the tenets of their reli- 
 gion may be regarded, it is impossible not to be 
 struck with the decorum, or even dignity of de- 
 votion, which is manifested externally in the worship 
 of this people. It was necessary to comply with 
 their usage in taking off our shoes before we trod 
 on the carpet of the mosque, or could advance un- 
 derneath the large and lofty dome which forms the 
 most conspicuous feature in the building. The in- 
 terior, in its present state, exhibits but few of those 
 decorations which gave splendour to the edifice in 
 its original character of a Greek church. A sort 
 of stone rostrum, however, is shown here, reputed 
 by the Christians of the city to be that from which 
 St. Paul preached to the Thessalonians. I am not 
 aware on what this tradition is founded. 
 
 The mosque, once the Greek church of St. De- 
 metrius, is of large size, and remarkable for the 
 number and beauty of the ancient columns which 
 support and adorn it. The loftiness of the build- 
 ing has admitted two heights of gallery ; each, as 
 well as the roof, supported by a tier of columns 
 passing round the church. The total number is 
 said to be three hundred and sixty. Some of these 
 columns are of marble, some of verde-antique, 
 others of sienite and porphyry. We visited the 
 
 vol. 11. L
 
 50 ANTIQUITIES OF SALONICA. 
 
 stone sepulchre of St. Demetrius in a cell adjoining 
 the church, where a lamp is kept always burning ; 
 chiefly, as it seems, to enable the Turk who shews 
 the place, to require a few coins from the visitor of 
 the tomb. St. Demetrius was the patron saint of the 
 city; famed for his martyrdom, and for various 
 miracles which are recorded in the Byzantine his- 
 tory. A subterranean church is connected with the 
 mosque ; erected, it is said, on the site of the Jewish 
 synagogue, where St. Paul preached to the people 
 of Thessalonica. 
 
 There are few remains in this place belonging to 
 a more remote antiquity. A triumphal gate, erected 
 after the battle of Philippi, in honour of Augustus, 
 has lost its former splendour by being made a part 
 of the modern walls of the city. A work of greater 
 magnificence is a triumphal arch of Roman brick, 
 cased with marble, which traverses one of the prin- 
 cipal streets. This is said to have been erected in 
 honour of the first Constantine Originally there 
 was a small arch on each side ; but these are now 
 blocked up ; and in other respects the work is 
 much defaced by time. Some fine bas-relief groupes 
 still, however, remain on the piers of the arch ; 
 one representing a triumphal procession ; a lower 
 compartment describing the events of a battle ; — 
 the sculpture not without a good deal of * spirit. 
 
 * Pococke speaks with great admiration of these bas-reliefs : 
 and M. Beaujour, in his " Tableau du Commerce de la Grece," 
 depreciates them in an equal degree. Perhaps the truth is 
 between these two writers. M. Beaujour, however, is certainly 
 too luxuriant in his description of the figures on the Corinthian 
 colonnade of Salonica.
 
 ANTIQUITIES OF SALONICA. 51 
 
 In the middle of the city, a singular ruined struc- 
 ture is seen, forming in its present state the entrance 
 to the area of a Greek house, — a Corinthian co- 
 lonnade, of which four columns now remain, sup- 
 porting an entablature, on which are correspond- 
 ing pilastres, six feet in height. On each side of 
 this upper colonnade are four figures in full length, 
 now so far defaced by time, that it is not easy to 
 make out all their characters. It seems probable, 
 however, that three of those on one side represent 
 Victory, Bacchus, and Ganymede ; while on the 
 other are the figures of Leda and Ariadne, a male 
 figure, and that of a female in profile. This edifice 
 is supposed to have been the entrance of the ancient 
 circus of Thessalonica ; and if so, the scene of the 
 dreadful massacre directed by Theodosius. It is 
 stated, though I know not on what authority, to 
 have been built in the time of Nero. It does not 
 appear that the columns ever exceeded five in 
 number. 
 
 The walls of Salonica are lofty and well built. 
 
 The castle forms a large distinct area, separated 
 
 from the city by a tranverse wall ; the greater part 
 
 of which enclosure is either vacant, or occupied 
 
 by irregular buildings. At its highest point stands 
 
 the fortress, surmounted by seven towers, like that 
 
 of the capital of Turkey. The view from this point 
 
 is extensive and magnificent. The city, and its 
 
 numerous minarets, are immediately below the eye ; 
 
 beyond these the expanse of the gulph, and the 
 
 vast barrier of the Olympus chain towards the west ; 
 
 e l l
 
 52 VIEW FROM THE CASTLE. 
 
 and in a northerly direction, the widely-spreading 
 plains of Macedonia, and the rivers which pursue 
 a tortuous course through them towards the sea. 
 Pella, the ancient capital of the Macedonian kings, 
 stood upon these plains ; and its situation, even 
 from this distance, is marked with some certainty, 
 as well by the course of the rivers, as by the emi- 
 nence on which stood the fortress of the city, de- 
 scribed by Livy to be like, an island rising out of 
 the surrounding marshes. Towards the north of 
 this tract of level country, a lofty range of moun- 
 tains occupies 'part of the horizon ; the modern 
 name of which is said to be Xerolivado. In the 
 same direction from Salonica is the large and po- 
 pulous city of Seres, the residence of Ishmael Bey, 
 and the seat of his local government. 
 
 The view from the castle of Salonica, towards 
 the peninsula of the ancient Pallene, is limited by 
 the mountain called Chortehadje, a few miles to the 
 south-east of the city ; on the sides of which hill, 
 ice is preserved in wells during the whole year for 
 the use of the inhabitants of Salonica. * 1 cannot 
 speak with certainty of the geological character of 
 this peninsula ; but I believe it probable that there 
 is a good deal of primitive country in its extent. 
 Mount Athos is known to be composed of primitive 
 rocks ; marble, a compound of hornblende and 
 felspar, &c. The hill on which Salonica is built, 
 
 * This mountain is probably the ancient Birmium, at the foot 
 of which stood the city of Berraea. Edessa was situated beyond 
 Pella in the same district.
 
 POPULATION OF SALONICA. 53 
 
 appears to be entirely composed of mica slate ; a 
 tact I first noticed in the open space between the 
 city and the fortress, where there are many abrupt 
 projections of this rock, exhibiting a great incli- 
 nation of the strata. The mines of gold and silver 
 near Philippi, and in other parts of Macedonia, are 
 mentioned by various writers of antiquity. 
 
 The population of Salonica, in its present state, 
 probably exceeds seventy thousand souls. I have 
 heard it estimated as high as ninety thousand j but 
 in this statement there appears to be some exagger- 
 ation. It is certain, however, that the number of 
 inhabitants has been much increased within the last 
 few years, owing in part to the extended commerce 
 of the place, partly to the settlement of numerous 
 emigrants who have fled hither to shun the power 
 or the vengeance of Ali Pasha. The population is 
 composed of four distinct classes, Turks, Greeks, 
 Jews, and Franks ; the last comprising all those in- 
 habitants who are natives of the other parts of 
 Europe, whether English, French, Germans, or 
 Italians. The Turks probably form somewhat less 
 than half the whole population of the city. Though 
 thus intermixed with other communities of people, 
 they preserve all their peculiar national habits, and a 
 greater facility of exercising them than their coun- 
 trymen of Ioannina. In walking through the quar- 
 ters of Salonica chiefly inhabited by these people, 
 we were more than once exposed to insult from the 
 young Turkish boys, who, witli the accustomed 
 opprobrious epithets, amused themselves by throw- 
 
 e 3
 
 54 CHARACTER OF THE SOCIETY AT SALONICA. 
 
 ing stones at us. In a case of this kind, it would 
 have been fruitless to remonstrate, and dangerous 
 to offer violence in return. 
 
 The number of Greek families in Salon ica is said 
 to be about two thousand. The greater part of this 
 population is engaged in commerce ; and many of 
 the Greek merchants resident here, have acquired 
 considerable property from this source. The trade 
 they carry on is in some measure subordinate to that 
 of the Frank merchants of Salonica ; but they have 
 likewise extensive independent connections with 
 Germany, Constantinople, Smyrna, Malta, and va- 
 rious parts of Greece. They do not possess so much 
 reputation in literature as their countrymen of 
 Ioannina ; owing perhaps to the difference which 
 their situation produces in the nature of their com- 
 mercial concerns. I have visited, however, the 
 houses of some of the Salonica merchants, in which 
 there were large collections of books, including as 
 well the Romaic literature as that of other parts of 
 Europe. Salonica is one of the Greek metropolitan 
 sees, to which eight suffragan bishoprics are an- 
 nexed. The Greeks have a number of churches in 
 the city, the principal of which is called the Ro- 
 tondo j rendered remarkable by the domes which 
 rise from its roof, giving an air of splendour to its 
 external appearance. 
 
 The Jews form a large portion of the population 
 of the city, and the number of houses occupied by 
 this people is estimated at between three and four 
 thousand. The community is of Spanish descent,
 
 CHARACTER OF THE SOCIETY AT SALONICA. 55 
 
 and settled here under certain conditions of pro- 
 tection and privilege, which appear to have been 
 faithfully executed on the part of the Turks. The 
 Jews of higher class obtain a livelihood chiefly as 
 brokers, or retail-dealers in the Bazars : the greater 
 number are employed as porters on the quays, and 
 in other similar offices. They exhibit the same 
 active diligence here as elsewhere ; but the repute 
 of fraudulent habits goes along with that of in- 
 dustry ; and the Jews of Salonica are characterized 
 in a saying of the country, as a people whom it is 
 the business of every stranger to avoid. * 
 
 The Frank population of Salonica is confined to 
 the lower quarter of the city, but has latterly been 
 much extended in number by the increasing com- 
 merce of the place. The German and French re- 
 sidents are more numerous than the English ; and 
 the former in particular have made several large 
 establishments here within the last two years, in 
 reference to the transit trade with the interior of 
 Germany. The Austrian consul, M. Coch, is a 
 gentleman who had formerly some rank in Venice, 
 but who suffered during the revolutions of that 
 state ; and has been obliged to accept his present 
 situation at Salonica, in which he appears to be 
 deservedly respected. The French residents con- 
 sist chiefly of families who have been long settled 
 in the Levant, either professionally or in com- 
 mercial engagements. Their consul at this time 
 
 * This saying conveys the caution, ,: to shun the Greek of 
 Athens, the Turk of Negropont, and the .Jew of Salonica." 
 
 E 4
 
 56 CHARACTER OF THE SOCIETY AT SALONICA. 
 
 was M. Clairembaut, a gentleman who, in con- 
 formity to the designs of the existing government 
 of France, is said to have shewn much activity in 
 his endeavours to impede the British commerce at 
 this port. There are two French medical prac- 
 titioners in Salonica ; one of whom, M. Lafond, ap- 
 pears to be much esteemed, both professionally and 
 as a member of society, engrossing all the principal 
 practice of the city. 
 
 The houses of the Franks resident in Salonica 
 are similar to those of the native inhabitants of the 
 country. The separation of their society from the 
 rest of Europe has given rise to an intimate con- 
 nection among themselves ; and though by the usual 
 faults or fatalities of life, some private feuds have 
 found a way into the community, yet on the whole 
 their social intercourse is maintained on a pleasant 
 and respectable footing. The same insulation has 
 in general exempted them from any violence of na- 
 tional animosity ; though some time before our ar- 
 rival, this harmony, which formed so important a 
 benefit to all, had been affected by the influence 
 of the French continental system, at that period 
 under the despotic impulse of Napoleon, extending 
 its baneful energies to every part of Europe. Hu- 
 manity has but one comment to make on a political 
 scheme, which could prohibit social intercourse 
 with the subjects of a hostile power, even situated 
 in this comparative seclusion ; thus abolishing the 
 courtesies of former warfare, and abridging, almost 
 maliciously, the amount of human comfort. It is
 
 GERMAN RESIDENTS. 57 
 
 requisite, however, to mention that M. Clairembaut, 
 though executing the intention of his government 
 in the furtherance of this system, ventured a devi- 
 ation so far as to call upon us during our stay at 
 Salon ica ; an act of attention, for which we were 
 indebted to the kindness of M. Pouqueville, who 
 had written to him with this object. 
 
 We found much facility in entering into the so- 
 ciety of the German residents at Salonica. Mr. 
 Chassaud,- a relation of Mr. Abbott's, and con- 
 nected with the English establishment in the Le- 
 vant, introduced us to the Austrian consul, at 
 whose house we passed two agreeable evenings. 
 The party there was a sort of conversazione, with 
 card-tables also in the room. The company con- 
 sisted of Greeks, Germans, English, and a few 
 French residents ; the ladies of the Consul's 
 family, and the lady and daughter of Mr. Chassaud, 
 being the only females present. The Austrian 
 consul and Mr. Chassaud are married to sisters of 
 a Greek family; and their daughters, who form 
 the most cultivated part of the female society at 
 Salonica, are more allied to the Greek than to the 
 European character, in their costume, manners, and 
 language. After an interval of solicitation, which 
 did not disprove the old saying of Horace respect- 
 ing singers, these young ladies gave us a number 
 of songs in the Romaic and Turkish languages; the 
 style of music much alike in both, and more inte- 
 resting from the peculiarity than from the harmony 
 of these national airs. One Romaic song, com-
 
 58 GERMAN RESIDENTS. 
 
 posed by the unfortunate Rega, at the time when 
 the French Revolution gave a passing impulse to 
 the spirits of the Greeks, was sung to the well- 
 known air which we connect with the words of 
 " Life let us cherish" &c. * In listening to this, my 
 memory was carried back for a moment, with a 
 singular shifting of scene, to the shores of the 
 Faxe-Fiord in Iceland ; where two years before I 
 had unexpectedly caught the sounds of this very 
 air, played on the chords of the Icelandic langspiel. 
 The effect of these sudden contrasts between me- 
 mory and reality mav be understood and estimated 
 by all. 
 
 We received many civilities from the German 
 merchants, resident at Salonica, and dined two or 
 three times with large parties, which were made on 
 our account. Their business of purchasing colonial 
 and manufactured articles for the German market, 
 and forwarding them overland through Turkey, is 
 one that demands activity and enterprize, as well 
 as capital ; and accordingly we found several of 
 them to be men of very considerable intelligence. 
 We obtained, through their means, various parti- 
 culars of this transit commerce ; and though the 
 series of later events has now greatly diminished 
 the importance of the subject, I trust I shall be 
 pardoned in giving a slight sketch of a traffic, 
 which was singular in its nature, and which the 
 
 * This patriotic song, beginning, T* xa^TEgom, (J>»X<h xcw a&Aipo*, 
 is one of the most popular and spirited of those which were sug- 
 gested by the enthusiasm of the Greeks at the period in question.
 
 TRANSIT COMMERCE OF SALONICA. ,59 
 
 contingencies of the future may possibly again re- 
 store; though never, it may be hoped, from the 
 same causes or the same necessity. 
 
 Till within the last three or four years, the com- 
 merce of Salonica was limited to a certain average 
 amount of exports and imports, which will here- 
 after be mentioned ; and to a small overland traffic 
 with Germany, chiefly for the conveyance of the 
 manufactures of Thessaly. The obstacles opposed 
 to the commerce of Europe by the continental sys- 
 tem of Napoleon, while creating an extreme scar- 
 city of colonial produce and British manufactures 
 through the interior of the continent, had the 
 natural effect of conducting the merchant to more 
 remote channels of intercourse ; the increased 
 price of his goods compensating for the greater risk 
 of the enterprize. The port of Salonica formed 
 one of these new channels of commerce, and the 
 progressive extension of the French system during 
 the years 1810, 1 8 1 1 , and 1 8 1 2, produced an increase 
 in the import trade of this place ; depending on the 
 demand in Germany for articles, to which an ac- 
 cess was denied by the accustomed routes. To 
 conduct the overland traffic, the partners or agents 
 of various German houses settled themselves at 
 Salonica. The English intercourse with this port 
 had hitherto been carried on through Malta, and 
 in Maltese or Greek vessels; but the increasing 
 demands for goods led to a more immediate com- 
 munication, and during the year 1812 nearly thirty 
 cargoes arrived here direct from England, besides
 
 60 TRANSIT COMMERCE OF SALONICA. 
 
 a still greater number of vessels, under the English 
 flag from Malta and Gibraltar. The imports by 
 these various cargoes were principally sugar, coffee, 
 indigo, and cotton-twist ; with a smaller quantity 
 of other articles of miscellaneous kind. The goods 
 thus forwarded to Salonica, were received by the 
 German agents there, transmitted by land-carriage 
 through Turkey, and the payments made in bill- 
 transactions between the commercial houses in 
 Germany and their connections in England. 
 
 The most singular feature in this trade is the 
 long and laborious journey, by which the goods 
 are transported from the shores of the Archipelago 
 to the very centre of the continent of Europe. 
 Such a journey, indeed, will not compare in length 
 or difficulty with many of those performed by the 
 caravans of the East ; but it is nevertheless in- 
 teresting, both from the nature of the road, and as 
 an evidence of what commerce can rapidly accom- 
 plish in removing the impediments to which it may 
 be exposed. From Salonica to the Austrian domi- 
 nions there are two or three principal routes ; one 
 through the province of Bosnia ; another through 
 Bulgaria by Widin and Ossovo ; a third which de- 
 viates from the last at the city of Sophia, taking the 
 direction of Belgrade. The Bosnian route con- 
 ducts the traveller through Seraglio, a city said to 
 contain more than 50,000 people ; but the country 
 to be traversed is so mountainous, that it is compa- 
 ratively not much frequented. The second route, 
 or that of Bulgaria, is the one which has been
 
 TRANSIT COMMERCE OF SALONICA. 61 
 
 adopted for the transit of the overland commerce 
 from Salonica. Pursuing a course nearly due north 
 by Seres, Sophia, and Widin, it enters the Austrian 
 territory at Ossova, and is thence continued through 
 the Bannat of Hungary by Temeswar, to Pest, Raab, 
 and Vienna. In the subjoined note, some farther 
 details are given respecting this road, which seems 
 on the whole to be the most advantageous for the 
 purposes of transit commerce ; though in the pre- 
 sent state of Turkey, liable, like others, to inter- 
 ruption from internal feuds and warfare.* At the 
 moment when we visited Salonica, such an inter- 
 ruption had just occurred, in consequence of a war 
 between Mola Pasha of Widin, and his neighbour 
 Yusuf Aga of Berkofcha. It was reported that the 
 Pasha of Widin, following the example of his pre- 
 decessor Paswan Oglou, had refused to obey cer- 
 tain mandates of the Porte ; which, according to a 
 practice very common in this part of the world, had 
 impelled Yusuf Aga to attack him, with assurance 
 of indirect support; thus satisfying its own dignity 
 by exciting a petty warfare between two districts 
 of the empire. It was conceived at Salonica, 
 that this contest would be short ; and that which- 
 
 * Some of the principal stages upon the Bulgarian route 
 setting out from Salonica, are, — Klissoli, Seres, Dimirissar', 
 Melenico, Doupnitza (in this vicinity is the great mountain-pass 
 of Kresna), Sophia, Bereoftza (here there occurs a high moun- 
 tain district), Lomm- Widin, Sambe, Ossova, Mechadia, Tere- 
 gova, Matina, Karanschebes, Zugosch, Kisgeto, Rekas, Temes- 
 war (the capital of the Bannat), Betskerck. Kemlas, Mokrin, 
 &c.
 
 62 TRANSIT COMMERCE OF SALQNICA. 
 
 soever party was successful, would readily allow 
 the renewed passage of the caravans for the sake of 
 the duties imposed upon them. In the mean-time, 
 however, several individuals had gone up the coun- 
 try, to ascertain the practicability of a route through 
 Servia ; though it was apprehended there might be 
 difficulty in establishing this, during the uncertain 
 state of that province which succeeded to the 
 Russian war. 
 
 The goods landed at Salonica for carriage into 
 Germany are chiefly transported upon the horses of 
 the country. They are made up into packages, 
 each weighing in general 1| cwt., and of these 
 packages two are carried by every horse. The ca- 
 valcades for this inland journey are of various size, 
 some consisting of one or two hundred, others even 
 exceeding a thousand horses. A few days preced- 
 ing our arrival, Mr. Leoghley, a German merchant, 
 had dispatched one of nearly eleven hundred horses ; 
 the greatest number, it is said, which ever departed 
 at one time from the city. The property trans- 
 ported by this single conveyance, at a moderate es- 
 timate, must have been worth 30,000/. on its arri- 
 val in Germany. The time occupied in the jour- 
 ney from Salonica to Vienna is in general about 
 thirty-five days, exclusively of the quarantine at 
 Ossova, which at this time was extended to twenty- 
 eight days. The cavalcades usually travel eight 
 hours in the twenty-four. In the evening they 
 halt in the neighbourhood of some town or village ; 
 the packages are taken off the horses and placed in
 
 TRANSIT COMMERCE OF SALONICA. 63 
 
 a central spot, with guards around them during the 
 night ; the horses pasture in the vicinity, and the 
 men attending the cavalcade supply themselves 
 with provisions from the villages. These men vary 
 in number according to the size of the caravan ; 
 one man being commonly attached to every five 
 horses, besides the guards who watch over the se- 
 curity of the whole. It is worthy of remark, that 
 as far down as the close of 1812, no predatory at- 
 tempt had been made upon these caravans, nor any 
 material loss sustained by petty pillage during this 
 long overland journey. 
 
 Camels are sometimes, but more rarely, employed 
 for the inland carriage of goods to a certain distance 
 from Salonica. Their load is double that of the 
 horse, but the progress they make in a country like 
 European Turkey is slow, and subject to numerous 
 obstacles. We fortunately happened to see in the 
 suburbs of Salonica a train of thirty or forty camels, 
 just arrived from a journey; an interesting spec- 
 tacle, as well in the magnificent size and attitudes 
 of the animal, as in the connection it has with the 
 tales and scenery of the East. 
 
 In their passage through the Turkish dominions, 
 the goods are subject to various duties paid to the 
 Pashas and other local authorities on the route ; 
 but these are for the most part of small account, 
 often not exceeding a few paras on each package. 
 They are said to be most considerable at Widin, 
 the Pasha of which place has derived large sums 
 from the passage of the caravans through his terri-
 
 64 TRANSIT COMMERCE OF SALONICA. 
 
 tory. I have heard it estimated that the total ex- 
 pence of the transit of sugar and coffee to Vienna 
 was about cent, per cent, on their import value at 
 Salonica, and it is easy to credit this statement. It 
 has not been usual to effect insurances on the over- 
 land transport ; this risk, as well as the expences of 
 the journey, being compensated by the great de- 
 mand for, and high price of colonial articles in 
 Germany. In the autumn of 1812, coffee was sel- 
 ling at Vienna at a common price of 15/. per cwt. j 
 sugar and other produce in the same proportion. 
 It was found necessary, in carrying on this trade, 
 to send down from Germany specie sufficient to 
 pay the transit expences of the goods ; no house at 
 Salonica having means to afford accommodation of 
 this kind. 
 
 The return cargoes from Salonica, during this 
 period of its augmented - commerce, have been 
 chiefly of grain and timber ; the former, in parti- 
 cular, rendered valuable by its deficiency at this 
 time, not only in Spain, but even in Sicily, the 
 ancient granary of Rome. Some obstacles were 
 offered to this export of grain by the French in- 
 fluence operating through Constantinople ; but the 
 authority of the Porte in its provinces is too limited 
 to oppose itself to an impulse powerful as that of 
 gain. Shipments of corn, prohibited in appearance, 
 were made with facility during the night j nor was 
 it easy to raise impediments where the local govern- 
 ment was the party chiefly concerned in these 
 transactions.
 
 COMMERCE OF SALONICA. C.5 
 
 The restoration of European commerce by the 
 events of the last two years has had the effect of 
 superseding this transit trade, and of reducing the 
 commerce of Salonica to narrower limits. There 
 is reason, however, to believe that it will still be 
 greater than it was ten years ago > the recent low 
 prices of our colonial produce and manufactured 
 goods, having led to an increased demand among 
 Turks as well as Greeks ; which demand is likely 
 in part to be continued, though the articles are 
 again raised in value. Still, it may be considered 
 that the trade of the place is now returning to its 
 former level, and I shall therefore add a few re- 
 marks on its general nature and extent. 
 
 The exports from Salonica are principally corn, 
 cotton, tobacco, wool, and timber ; the produce 
 either of the great plains to the north of the city, 
 or of the shores of the gulf towards the south. 
 The plains of Macedonia have long been celebrated 
 tor their fertility in grain ; and the cottons of the 
 district of Seres, the ancient Sintice, are deservedly 
 held in much repute. The culture of tobacco is of 
 course of later origin, though this plant now forms 
 one of the principal articles of growth in the lands 
 surrounding the Macedonian villages. Almost all 
 the produce of this important district centres in 
 Salonica, as a place of export ; it being in fact the 
 only accessible outlet for a great part of the terri- 
 tory in question. Of the grain shipped from this 
 port, the larger proportion is wheat; the quality of 
 which may, for the most part, In* considered xery 
 
 VOL. a. F
 
 66 COMMERCE OF SALONICA. 
 
 good. * In the year 1809, which will furnish 
 perhaps a fair average, the export of wheat was 
 estimated at 1,000,000 kilos, the kilo being about 
 55lbs. ; that of barley at 500,000 ; that of Indian 
 corn at 100,000 kilos. The ordinary price of 
 wheat for export has been from five to six or six 
 and a half piastres per kilo, until the last two or 
 three years, when its value has been greatly raised 
 by deficient crops, and an increased demand in 
 other countries, t Unfortunately for the interests 
 of commerce, the Bey of Salonica preserves a 
 monopoly of the corn trade ; purchasing all the 
 grain from the cultivators at a certain price, and 
 disposing of it to the merchants for his own best 
 advantage. The prohibition to the export of corn 
 from Turkey is easily obviated, by means to which 
 I have already alluded. 
 
 The cottons of Macedonia are fine, though per- 
 haps inferior to those of Thessaly. In the year 
 1809, the export of this article from Salonica 
 amounted to 110,000 bales; the price on board 
 varying from 60 to 85 or 90 paras per oke. 
 
 The annual produce of tobacco in this district 
 has generally varied from 35,000 to 40,000 bales, 
 the bale containing 110 okes, or about 275 lbs. 
 
 * The stranger must not judge of this from the bread in 
 Salonica, which is rendered gritty and unpleasant by the softness 
 of the stones employed in grinding it. 
 
 f The crop of 1812 was remarkably deficient, and when we 
 visited Salonica flour was selling at 24 paras an oke, which 
 quantity the year before had been sold at an average price of 
 14 paras.
 
 COMMERCE OF SALONICA. 6j 
 
 Of this quantity nearly 30,000 bales are shipped at 
 Salonica, chiefly to Alexandria, and the different 
 Italian ports. The average annual export to Egypt 
 has been estimated at 15,000 bales ; but a con- 
 siderable proportion of this tobacco is of inferior 
 quality, the first cost of which does not exceed 
 nine or ten piastres a bale ; while the price of the 
 Yenidje tobacco, which is the best quality, amounts 
 to upwards of forty piastres. The duties on the 
 different kinds are taken ad valorem. It is said 
 that the produce of tobacco in Macedonia has con- 
 siderably Hecreased within the last ten or twenty 
 years, owing in part to the indirect effects of the 
 war between Russia and the Porte, partly to the 
 prevention of the regular sale in Egypt, by the in- 
 vasion and subsequent events in that country. 
 
 Wool is another article in the trade from Salo- 
 nica, and in the year already referred to, the 
 export amounted to nearly 1,000,000 lbs. The 
 timber of Salonica is chiefly obtained from the 
 shores of the gulf, particularly in the vicinity of 
 Katrina, and is well adapted to the purposes of 
 ship-building, for which it is conveyed to Malta 
 and other ports of the Mediterranean. 
 
 The ordinary imports into Salonica consist of 
 clayed sugars, Mocha and West Indian coffee, dve- 
 woods, indigo, cochineal, muslins, printed calicoes, 
 iron, lead, tin, watches, and various other articles 
 of a miscellaneous kind. The quantity of none of 
 these is very great, but the trade seems capable of 
 extension ; and the demand both for colonial and 
 
 f a
 
 68 
 
 COMMERCE OF SALONICA. 
 
 manufactured goods will probably receive a pro- 
 gressive increase. The commercial events of the 
 last few years have doubtless contributed to this 
 effect, and it is difficult to repel commerce from a 
 ground where it has once freely trodden. 
 
 The ships at Salonica lie at anchor before the 
 town, but the form of the gulf renders the harbour 
 a safe one, and the access to it is by no means 
 difficult. The ordinary import and export duties 
 of the place are those common to foreign trade in 
 Turkey, viz. three per cent, ad valorem ; which 
 duties are always farmed from the Por'te by the 
 governor of the city. The present governor, 
 Yusuf Bey, has shown a disposition to encourage 
 trade, which can scarcely excite surprise, consider- 
 ing the large revenues he has latterly drawn from 
 this source. It ought further to be mentioned, 
 however, that the character and government of 
 Yusuf are on the whole beneficial to the inhabit- 
 ants of Salonica, and that he shows an exemption 
 from many of the prejudices common to his nation. 
 Though habitually reserved in his manner, he ap- 
 pears to have much curiosity and desire of im- 
 provement. He generally visits the English ships 
 of war which enter the port, and has himself 
 established a cannon foundery at Salonica, under 
 the direction of a Frenchman, where brass cannon 
 are cast of good manufacture. The wealth of 
 Yusuf Bey is said to be great. His present re- 
 sidence is in the higher part of the city, in a 
 building which exhibits no external magnificence ; 
 
 14
 
 ISHMAEL BEY OF SERES. 69 
 
 but he is about to erect a new palace, which, it is 
 reported, will cost nearly two millions of piastres. 
 
 Ishmael Bey of Seres, the father of Yusuf, is 
 one of those individuals, who, in the disjointed 
 Turkish empire, have risen up into a partial in- 
 dependence, retaining a permanent power in their 
 several districts, yet recognising the authority of 
 the Porte," and paying large sums to maintain an 
 interest in the Divan. While AH Pasha holds in 
 subjection some of the more mountainous parts of 
 Macedonia, Ishmael Bey has long possessed au- 
 thority over the great plains of this country ; and 
 his present jurisdiction is said to extend over a 
 district stretching five days' journey to the north 
 of Salonica. This, according to the common esti- 
 mate, gives a distance of 100 or 120 miles, but 
 with a very small breadth. The city of Seres, the 
 seat of his government, contains between five and 
 six thousand houses, and many wealthy inhabit- 
 ants. Ishmael, now an old man, is a native of this 
 country. His power, which has progressively in- 
 creased during the last forty years, is maintained 
 by a considerable military force ; partly also, as it 
 would seem, by the attachment of the population ; 
 and still more perhaps by the wealth he has derived 
 from the revenues of a fertile country and a 
 flourishing sea-port. His jurisdiction is uncon- 
 trolled by that of the neighbouring Viziers or 
 Pashas, and derives authority from the recognition 
 of the Porte, with which he is said to maintain a 
 good understanding. The power of Ishmael Bey, 
 
 f 3
 
 70 ISHMAEL BEY OF SERES. 
 
 however, bears no comparison with that of AH 
 Pasha ; nor has he the character of independent 
 sovereignty which the latter derives from the 
 extent of his territory, from his army, his revenues, 
 and his intercourse with foreign powers. The 
 active ambition of AH has long been a source of 
 alarm to the Bey of Seres; and but that such an 
 enterprise, in the relative situation of the parties, 
 would be equivalent to a declaration of war against 
 the Porte, it is probable that these apprehensions 
 might be justified by the reality. The immediate 
 vicinity of Ali Pasha's dominions to Salonica has 
 given particular cause for alarm in this quarter ; 
 and this feeling has been lately increased by 
 rumours of Albanian soldiers and agents coming 
 over in disguise to disturb and agitate the city. 
 Such rumours may perhaps have originated in the 
 politic caution of Ishmael and his son Yusuf Bey ; 
 who have further evinced their fears by fortifying 
 various points on the boundary, and by preventing 
 the reparation of a bridge on the Vardari which had 
 been broken down. It will probably depend less 
 on these precautions than on the future state of 
 the Turkish empire, whether the Vizier of Albania 
 attempts, or refrains from, the enterprise in 
 question. 
 
 During the last three days of our stay at Salonica, 
 a northerly wind succeeded to those we before had 
 from the west and south-west, which by their at- 
 tendant rain and fogs had rendered so comfortless 
 our journey from Larissa. The weather now sud-
 
 CLIMATE OF SALONICA. Jl 
 
 denly became very clear and cold, the thermo- 
 meter, at 8 a. m. on the morning of the 3d of 
 December, falling as low as 36°. Salonica is con- 
 sidered an unhealthy place, more especially in the 
 autumnal months, owing to the vicinity of the 
 great marshes at the head of the gulf. Intermit- 
 tent and remittent fevers are exceedingly common 
 here, and during my stay in the city I was con- 
 sulted upon several cases of ague, as well as upon 
 some chronic visceral complaints, which from 
 their history were evidently a consequence of old 
 and repeated attacks of these fevers. It would 
 seem that the Peruvian bark as well as other me- 
 dicines, is very often adulterated in its transit up 
 the Mediterranean. Much of that which is found 
 in the shops at Salonica, and generally employed 
 there in the treatment of agues, can by no means 
 be relied upon for the relief of this disease. 
 
 f 4
 
 72 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM SALONICA BY SEA TO ZEITUN. PRO- 
 TRACTED AND DANGEROUS VOYAGE. ISLES OF CHILl- 
 
 DROMI AND SARAKINO. PIRATES OF THE ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 SKOPELOS. SKIATHOS. TRIKERI. GULF OF VOLO, 
 
 — COUNTRY ROUND THE SKIRTS OF MOUNT PELION. 
 
 PASSAGE UP THE GULF OF ZEITUN. VIEW OF THER- 
 MOPYLAE. 
 
 It was our original design to have returned by 
 land from Salonica to Larissa, but the difficulties 
 we had experienced in traversing this country, dis- 
 posed us to adopt any other plan that might pre- 
 sent itself ; and finding a Greek polacca brig about 
 to sail for Zeitun, we decided on taking our pas- 
 sage thither. Zeitun is a port at the head of the 
 Maliac Gulf, and not far distant from the pass of 
 Thermopylae. Retaining in mind the promise I 
 had given to Veli Pasha, to visit him again at La- 
 rissa, it was a part of this new arrangement that I 
 should leave my friend at Zeitun ; and, travelling 
 with speed to fulfil my engagements at the former 
 city, should rejoin him at the same place for the 
 prosecution of our journey towards Athens. We 
 left it to the option of the Tartar Sulema, whether 
 he would embark with us for the sea voyage, or 
 return by land to Larissa, and were not dissatisfied 
 that he adopted the resolution of accompanying us. 
 The wind and weather augured favourably for
 
 VOYAGE DOWN THE GULF. JS 
 
 our voyage, when we sailed from the bay of Salo- 
 nica, on the evening of the 5th of December, and 
 we had reason to believe that two days would bring 
 us to our destined port. These predictions were 
 lamentably mistaken in the event. For thirteen 
 successive days we remained upon the sea, suffer- 
 ing under every circumstance which might render 
 a voyage comfortless and distressing, and deriving 
 consolation only from a critical escape of the greater 
 evils of shipwreck. The day after our departure 
 from Salonica, we proceeded slowly down the gulf 
 with little wind, but a heavy and lurid sky, with 
 broken masses of dark cloud, from which our cap- 
 tain derived evil prognostics. The interesting 
 character of the shores was not lessened to us, 
 however, by this state of the weather. On our 
 right hand were the richly-wooded plains of Ka- 
 trina, and those of the mouth of the Peneus, with 
 the heights of Olympus and Ossa forming a mag- 
 nificent barrier behind. On the opposite side, the 
 eye reposed first on the peninsula, anciently called 
 Pallene : the promontory of Posidium was dis- 
 tinctly to be seen as we sailed along the coast ; and 
 the observation of the isthmus connecting the pe- 
 ninsula with the main-land, allowed us to discern 
 more remotely the general situation of Potidaea and 
 Olynthus ; cities which gained celebrity in the wars 
 between Philip and the Athenians. The peninsula 
 of Pallene, which nowhere rises into lofty hills, is 
 fertile and well cultivated, yielding a considerable 
 quantity of grain for exportation. Beyond the
 
 74 MOUNT ATHOS. 
 
 gulf of Cassandria (the Toronaic of the ancients), 
 which form its eastern boundary, another low and 
 narrow peninsula stretches in a south-east direction 
 into the Archipelago. Over these peninsulas, and 
 two intermediate gulfs, we saw the lofty pinnacle 
 of Mount Athos rising in the distance; appearing 
 from this point of view as a vast insulated cone, 
 with a smaller conical eminence arising from one 
 of its sides. The modern name of this celebrated 
 hill is Monte Santo ; and its reputation among the 
 modern Greeks is derived chiefly from the nume- 
 rous assemblage of monasteries, which are situated 
 on the lower part of the mountain. 
 
 On the night of the 6th, a high wind came 
 upon us from the south-west, and we were driven 
 so far to the eastward of our course, that the fol- 
 lowing morning we found ourselves not far distant 
 from the promontory of Mount Athos, which rose 
 majestically through the dark and broken clouds 
 that hung upon its sides. At noon, after a gloomy 
 calm of half an hour, the wind suddenly went 
 round to the north, and within twenty minutes of 
 its commencement, blew with an extreme degree 
 of violence. It was one of those extraordinary gusts 
 which are common in the Mediterranean during 
 the winter season, especially in those parts of the 
 sea where there are deep inlets towards the north, 
 as the gulf of Lyons, the Adriatic, and the gulf of 
 Salonica. Our captain, more alarmed than flattered 
 by the event of his predictions, decided upon tak- 
 ing refuge from the storm, in a port between the
 
 NARROW ESCAPE OF SHIPWRECK. 75 
 
 two islands of Chilidromi and Sarakino, about 
 seventy miles distant from Mount Athos, in a di- 
 rection south by west. These islands are a part of 
 that groupe of which Skiathos and Skopelos form 
 the principal features; and they are little known 
 but as the occasional resort of the Archipelago 
 pirates, or as a place of casual shelter to the trading 
 vessels of the Greeks. The sea was running high, 
 and the wind blowing almost with the force of a 
 hurricane, when we entered the strait between the 
 isles, leaving on the left hand another rocky island 
 called Joura. Two anchors were put down, and 
 we lay for an hour under the cliffs which form the 
 southern shore of Chilidromi or Idromo. But as 
 the night advanced, the storm grew yet more vio- 
 lent, the vessel dragged her anchors, and gradually 
 drifted over towards the opposite shore of Sarakino, 
 about three miles distant. At eight o'clock our 
 situation became extremely critical ; the night dark ; 
 a tempest of wind ; thick sleet and snow ; a high 
 sea j and the vessel drifting upon a steep rocky 
 coast, which, seen through the obscurity of the 
 night, appeared almost to hang over our heads. 
 We were summoned by the captain to prepare for 
 the worst. We observed him addressing himself 
 fervently to the picture of a saint in the cabin, be- 
 fore which a lamp was constantly kept burning ; 
 and each moment we expected to feel the shock 
 of the vessel striking upon the rocks. Meanwhile 
 the crew were not idle. The yards and sails were 
 all got down to diminish the effect of the wind
 
 76 ISLES OF CHILIDROM1 AND SARAKINO. 
 
 upon the ship, and a third anchor was thrown out ; 
 but what proved of more importance to our safety 
 was the vessel's being driven past a rocky promon- 
 tory, which forms the entrance to a small bay 
 within Spalmador. Here we were in some degree 
 sheltered from the violence of the storm, and the 
 anchors at length held their ground ; but it was a 
 critical escape, and during the whole night we 
 were in alarm, lest the danger should recur upon 
 us. 
 
 The view by day-light the following morning did 
 not diminish our sense of the perils of the night. 
 We found ourselves lying at a very short distance 
 from the rocks, and saw a character of coast which 
 would have rendered escape almost impossible, had 
 we been thrown upon it. The wind still continued 
 with great though abated violence, and attended 
 with snow and severe cold. The thermometer at 
 noon did not stand higher than 35°, and this tem- 
 perature was the more distressing as we had no 
 fuel on board, nor any means of artificial warmth. 
 But for the state of the weather, our situation here 
 would not have been unpleasant. It seemed as if 
 we were lying in a large lake, without any appa- 
 rent outlet : the land rising steeply on every side, 
 destitute indeed of trees, but covered with wild 
 shrubs, chiefly the arbutus, oleander, and varieties 
 of ilex. We were prevented from landing at this 
 time, partly by the heavy surf, still more by our 
 apprehension of the pirates, who frequent these as 
 well as the neighbouring isles ; and whose pro-
 
 PIRATES OF THE ARCHIPELAGO. /7 
 
 fession frequently combines together plunder and 
 death. The Archipelago, in its numerous islands 
 and channels, has long been the scene of these ma- 
 ritime depredations ; which have derived impunity 
 from the feebleness of the Turkish government, 
 and the peculiar inertness of its marine. The 
 groupe of isles, at the entrance of the gulf of 
 Salonica, has long been a principal resort of the 
 pirates ; partly from the number of vessels passing 
 them ; partly from the facility with which they can 
 recruit their numbers among the Albanians, who 
 come down upon the coast. Their stations however 
 are shifted, as may best suit the purposes of self- 
 security or plunder ; and this uncertainty increases 
 the terror they inspire throughout these seas. Some 
 months before we visited Salonica, they had been 
 very numerous and active on the shores near Ka- 
 trina ; and we heard various anecdotes evincing 
 their boldness, rapacity, and ferocious disposition. 
 Some of these pirates had been taken, and the re- 
 mainder dislodged from this station ; but the pas- 
 sage down the gulf was still considered dangerous 
 for small vessels ; and we received many cautions 
 on the subject at Salonica, previously to our em- 
 barkation. 
 
 That these cautions were not unreasonably given, 
 was sufficiently proved by an event that occurred 
 only nine months afterwards, among the very islands 
 where we were now detained. Baron Von Stackel- 
 berg, a German artist of much eminence, who had 
 long resided at Athens, wishing to return to Ger-
 
 78 PIRATES OF THE ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 many by the way of Salonica, embarked from the 
 gulf of Volo for this port in a small armed vessel. 
 Near the mouth of the gulf of Salonica, this 
 vessel was attacked and taken by the Albanian 
 pirates, who carried Baron Stackelberg to one of 
 the small rocky islands of this groupe ; threatening 
 to put him instantly to death, unless he could 
 procure 60,000 piastres (nearly 3000/.) to ransom 
 himself from their hands. The captain of the cap- 
 tured vessel was dispatched to Athens to represent 
 the Baron's deplorable situation to his friends there. 
 With some difficulty they obtained a loan of 14,500 
 piastres ; and Baron Haller, his friend and country- 
 man, with generous zeal set out himself to assist m 
 obtaining Stackelberg's rescue. The latter mean- 
 while was reduced to a dangerous state by the 
 sufferings to which he was exposed ; and the only 
 alleviation to these was obtained from the fear of 
 the pirates, that his death might deprive them of 
 the expected ransom. Sixteen days he remained 
 in their hands, before any tidings were received 
 from Athens. At the end of this time Baron 
 Haller reached the retreat of the pirates, having 
 discovered it in a singular way by recognizing at 
 Trikeri his friend's shoes, which were worn by 
 a man, who proved to be the cousin of the pirate 
 captain. The offer of the 14,500 piastres was at 
 first rejected by the pirates ; and Stackelberg's life 
 nearly fell a sacrifice to the passion of their disap- 
 pointment. His captivity was continued, till Baron 
 Haller generously offered to take the place oi his
 
 PIRATES OF THE ARCHIPELAGO. 79 
 
 friend ; when the pirates, receiving this as a proof 
 that no further money could be obtained, and 
 being alarmed by the report of a frigate in search 
 of them, relinquished their prisoner for the ran- 
 som offered, with the additional claim of 6000 
 piastres for their captain. * 
 
 In this unlawful vocation of piracy large row- 
 boats are chiefly employed. They are crowded with 
 men, armed with pistols and cutlasses, who usually 
 attempt to board the vessels on which their attack 
 is made. On this coast the greater number of the 
 pirates are native Albanians ; either allured to this 
 occupation by its congeniality with their habits, or 
 driven to it as a resource in escaping from the 
 power of Ali Pasha. It mast be remarked, that, 
 on this side the Grecian continent, every desperado 
 is currently called an Albanian; and the reputa- 
 tion of this people for ferocity is such, that the 
 very name is made use of to excite feelings of ter- 
 ror ; an opinion which, it must be owned, is not 
 without some foundation in their actual character 
 and habits. 
 
 Of whatsoever people the pirate communities 
 are composed, and with every allowance for exag- 
 geration, it is certain that they form a serious im- 
 pediment to the commerce of these seas, and fre- 
 quently commit the most audacious acts. Instances 
 
 * After the relation of this instance of exalted friendship, it 
 is painful to add, that Baron Haller died at Ampelachia, in the 
 autumn of 1817, of the fever common in Greco-. Dr. Brtinsted, 
 of Copenhagen, hf>« since written a very interesting narrative of 
 the event recorded above.
 
 80 PIRATES OF THE ARCHIPELAGO. 
 
 of the kind narrated above are not unfrequent, 
 when, having captured merchants, or other persons 
 of respectable rank in life, they avail themselves 
 of the influence of terror, in obtaining bonds for 
 large sums of money ; detaining their captives till 
 they have received the price of redemption. The 
 regard to life is small among men who are despe- 
 rate in their fortunes ; and this indifference is of 
 course the same to the life of those who fall into 
 their power. A government, like that of Turkey, 
 would scarcely suppress this system of piracy in any 
 sea; but in the Archipelago, the pirates derive 
 peculiar advantages from the isles which crowd 
 its surface ; some of them uninhabited, others 
 having a population easily made subservient to- 
 schemes of illegal plunder. Occasional efforts are 
 directed against them by the Turkish ships of war; 
 but in general these attempts serve but to provoke 
 a greater boldness of enterprize. A few months 
 before this time, a vessel of the Grand Signor's 
 anchored in the same port where we had been shel- 
 tered from the storm : the crew landed ; they were 
 attacked by a body of pirates who happened to be 
 then on the island ; eleven were killed ; and the 
 remainder with difficulty effected their escape. 
 The trade of the Archipelago will not be freed 
 from these marauders, until the Greeks themselves 
 can establish an armed marine, or some maritime 
 power of Europe find an interest in abolishing the 
 evil. But it would seem that the Mediterranean 
 at large is destined to be the scene of this degra-
 
 PIRATES OF THE ARCHIPELAGO. 81 
 
 dation, and that there is a policy somewhere or 
 other licensing a system, which pursues the work 
 of rapine and slavery on the finest sea* in the 
 world. * 
 
 Our apprehension of pirates was partially justified 
 by the suspicious appearance of some men on the 
 shore, on the morning after our arrival. Two persons 
 only were first seen, who held out fish to us, and 
 by their signs seemed to invite a landing in the 
 boat. As this continued some time without our an- 
 swering their motions, three others appeared sud- 
 denly, who seemed to have been concealed among 
 the shrubs which covered the shore. They remained 
 a few minutes on the beach, and then retired from 
 our view. The following day the storm still con- 
 tinued, though with less violence ; but on the 
 morning of the 10th, finding ourselves still de- 
 tained by adverse winds, we ventured on shore 
 with the boat's crew, taking precautions against 
 any sudden surprise. This care eventually proved 
 
 * More than once, during my voyage in the Mediterranean, I 
 have been a witness of the piratical tyranny exercised in these 
 seas by the Barbary Corsairs. Near to the isle of Majorca, I 
 saw the Algerine squadron pursuing, with intent to capture, two 
 Greek ships, probably belonging to Hydra. Off the bay of 
 Cagliari, a few days afterwards, I had the opportunity of seeing 
 a pirate squadron with the red flag of Tunis, which, after chacing 
 another Greek vessel into a port on this coast of Sardinia, 
 landed a body of armed men, who carried off nine of the inha- 
 bitants into slavery. A month before this time, a single Tuni- 
 sian ship had forcibly taken off twenty-nine peasants from the 
 same coast. These outrages are constantly occurring in a sea 
 which washes the shores of a large part of civilized Europe. 
 VOL. II. G
 
 82 SAEAKINO. 
 
 unnecessary. We met with two shepherds only, — 
 men, who from the rudeness of their dress and ex- 
 terior, might have been thought belonging to sa- 
 vage life, but who appeared gratified in seeing us, 
 and eagerly gave a large wooden bowl of goat's 
 milk, in exchange for the bread which we prof- 
 fered to them. They spoke a rude form of the 
 Romaic language ; in which they told us that their 
 life was passed among this groupe of isles, in the 
 care of their sheep and goats ; that they had come 
 to Sarakino a few days ago ; and that they lived 
 here, and in other uninhabited islands of the vici- 
 nity, in caves or in huts made of stones and brush- 
 wood. They informed us that there had been 
 pirates here a few weeks ago, but believed they 
 were now gone to the neighbouring isle of Skopelos. 
 Of the people whom we had seen on the beach two 
 days before, they either knew or professed to know 
 nothing. r " rj 
 
 The isle of Sarakino, which our mariners called 
 Spalmador, is a narrow ridge of rock, stretching in 
 a crescent-like form from east to west ; its length 
 eight miles -, its breadth no-where exceeding two. 
 The port is on the northern side of the island ; a 
 deep secluded bay, sheltered by the surrounding 
 rocks, and to the north by the extension of the op- 
 posite island of Chilidromi. This bay has ten, 
 fifteen, and twenty fathoms water very near to the 
 shore : in the strait between the two isles, the 
 depth varies from twenty to fifty fathoms. The
 
 CHILIDROMI. 83 
 
 rook is entirely calcareous, having the character of 
 a coarsely crystallized marble, and without any 
 vestige of organic remains. The highest point of 
 the isle may be about six hundred feet above the 
 sea. Though not much broken in its general out- 
 line, the surface is extremely rugged, being every 
 where covered with detached fragments of rock, 
 among which the arbutus, the Cistus ladaniferus, 
 and the Scilla maritima, grow in great abundance. 
 The berry of the arbutus was at this time in its 
 perfection ; and we carried back with us to the 
 vessel a large supply of this fruit. Eaten with 
 goat's milk and sugar, it formed a very excellent 
 dish ; and peculiarly grateful to us at this time, 
 when the small stock of fresh provisions we had 
 laid in at Salonica was drawing towards a close. 
 
 Another day's detention induced me to accom- 
 pany the boat's crew in an excursion to the western 
 extremity of the isle of Chilidromi ; where we 
 learnt from the shepherds of Sarakino, that we 
 should find a small village. Besides the Greek 
 sailors, two or three passengers of the same nation 
 were with me in the boat ; one of them a native of 
 Mistra, the town which stands near the site of the 
 ancient Sparta. After rowing for six or eight 
 miles between the two islands, we were led to land 
 very hastily on the southern coast of Chilidromi, 
 to avoid a large boat, full of men, which was seen 
 approaching us ; and which was considered by our 
 crew as a pirate vessel. The isle of Chilidromi is 
 
 g 2
 
 8<& CHILIDROMI J 
 
 about twelve miles in length, but every where very 
 narrow. It is formed of higher land than Sarakino ; 
 the surface finely varied, and here and there covered 
 with woods, in addition to the shrubs which grow 
 here as on the neighbouring isle. Much of the 
 rock which I saw was marble, both milk-white and 
 yellow varieties. Near the shore in several places, 
 I observed calcareous strata lying upon the former 
 rock, which from their appearance, and some 
 vestiges of shells, might be regarded as recent de- 
 posits. On the beach of the island I found a 
 great deal of sponge, and the squill is extremely 
 abundant here, as well as in Sarakino. 
 
 The village of Chilidromi is situated on a hill at 
 the western point of the island ; it consists of about 
 150 wretched cottages, many of which are now un- 
 tenanted; the inhabitants having deserted the island, 
 in consequence of the alarm and injuries they suf- 
 fered from the pirates of these seas. The people re- 
 maining subsist chiefly upon fish, and the milk and 
 flesh of the goats which feed on the island. In 
 two or three places only, I observed small patches 
 of land under tillage, upon which the peasants were 
 at this time occupied in the labours of the plough ; 
 oxen being employed for this purpose, as on the 
 continent of Greece. I went up alone to some of 
 these people, who expressed extreme astonishment 
 at seeing a stranger in the Frank dress upon their 
 solitary island. They accosted me with civility of 
 manner, and asked with much eagerness for snuff 
 
 »3
 
 VIEW FROM IT. 85 
 
 or tobacco ; in which request I was unfortunately 
 not able to gratify them. * 
 
 Before leaving this island, ] ascended a lofty 
 pine-covered cliff which overhangs the sea on its 
 southern coast. From this point, and favoured by 
 the clearness of a frosty sky, I had a remarkably 
 fine view of the eastern coast of the Negropont, 
 and of the high chain of mountains which appears 
 to form the central part of this island throughout 
 its whole length. On the loftier summits of the 
 chain much snow had already fallen. Several other 
 isles of the Archipelago entered into the view from 
 the cliff on which I now stood ; Sarakino, with 
 the Adelphi and various other rocky islets which 
 surround it, was in front of me : Skopelos lay at a 
 short distance towards the west : the small isle 
 of Skangero was seen in a southern direction - 7 
 and beyond and over it, the higher eminences of 
 Skyros, an island known to history as the spot 
 where Theseus died in banishment. Valerius 
 Maximus not improperly calls it exsule minor in- 
 sula, t Beyond Sarakino, the sea lies open 
 in the direction of Lesbos and the Asiatic coast ; 
 
 * Since my return to England, I have heard the account of an 
 unhappy event, which occurred last year on the coast of jChi- 
 lidromi, from some misunderstanding between the captain of an 
 English sloop of war, and the natives. The report stated that 
 several of the crew of the English vessel had been killed in the 
 affray. 
 
 f Skyros was celebrated for the beauty of its coloured 
 marbles, which appear to have been greatly valued, and much 
 employed by the Romans. 
 
 G 3
 
 86 SHEPHERD OF SARAKINO. 
 
 but the interval was too great to allow even fancy 
 to picture to itself the view of these shores. 
 
 There is some difficulty connected with the an- 
 cient geography of this groupe of isles ; nor has it 
 yet been determined with certainty, how we are to 
 affix the names of Peparethos, Icos, and Halo- 
 nesos, mentioned by various ancient writers. If 
 we might suppose Skopelos to be the isle of Pe- 
 parethos, we should have Icos and Halonesos as 
 the former names of Chilidromi and Sarakino ; but 
 this supposition is perhaps a doubtful one. * 
 
 On my return to the vessel at night, I found 
 one of the shepherds waiting my arrival, with his 
 son, a young boy, who was suffering under a 
 chronic ophthalmia, for which the father wished to 
 ask my advice. This man came into the cabin of 
 the vessel, much as a native of the South Sea 
 Islands might have done ; gazing with eagerness 
 upon all that was before him, and expressing his 
 pleasure by that uncouth laughter, which marks 
 the extreme of rustic ignorance. Neither the father 
 nor son had ever seen a watch ; and this of course 
 excited peculiar admiration and surprise. 
 
 On the 12th of December, we availed ourselves 
 of a partial change of wind to quit this port, but 
 it was merely to change the scene of our ill-fortune. 
 
 * See Strabo, Ptolemy, and Pliny. A passage in Livy (lib. 
 xxviii. 5.) affords some reason for believing Skopelos and Pe- 
 paretbos to be the same : but it must be owned that the authors 
 of the Greek Modern Geography mention an island called 
 Peperi, as another in this groupe.
 
 SKOPELOS. 87 
 
 Scarcely had we got round the lofty promontory 
 which forms the southern angle of Skopelos, when 
 the wind became more adverse, increased in 
 violence, and finally led us to seek shelter anew in 
 a small bay called Panermo, on this side the island. 
 Here we were detained two days ; not, however, 
 without some remonstrance against this delay, as 
 we now began to believe our captain unreasonably 
 cautious and timid ; a character not unusual in the 
 trading Greeks of the Archipelago, but which we 
 little expected in him, after hearing that he had 
 sailed round Cape Horn, and passed some years in 
 the Spanish service, on the coasts of Chili and 
 Peru. We found, however, an explanation of his 
 caution, in learning that he was himself in part 
 an owmer of the vessel, upon w r hich no insurance 
 had been effected. Such a participation of in- 
 terest is very common among the masters of the 
 Levant traders ; and in the case of the cargo 
 is sometimes extended to every individual of the 
 crew ; — a system which has many advantages, as 
 well as certain inconveniences in practice. 
 
 The weather still continued extremely cold ; 
 the thermometer remaining as low as from 38° to 
 42°, with a north-west wind. Suffering much from 
 this cause on board our vessel, we landed in Sko- 
 pelos, and the sailors lighted a large fire of brush- 
 wood, in a cave underneath the sea-cliffs ; a spot 
 difficult of access, but which bore the marks of 
 having been often resorted to in the same way, 
 either by pirates, or by those of more lawful oc- 
 
 g 4
 
 88 SKOPELOS. 
 
 cupation on the seas. The figures of the Greek 
 sailors, and of our Tartar Sulema, crouching round 
 the fire in the deep recess of this cavern, might 
 have formed a fine subject for a picture. 
 
 The isle of Skopelos, as its name denotes, is 
 high and precipitous, and throughout its whole cir- 
 cumference, of more than 30 miles, presents a line 
 of lofty cliffs towards the sea. It is considerably 
 larger than Chilidromi ; but resembles it in aspect, 
 and evidently belongs to the same formation, de- 
 tached probably either by a gradual detritus, or by 
 some sudden convulsion of nature. In the channel 
 between the two isles, is the insulated rock of St. 
 Elias, which rises precipitously from the sea 
 to a great height, and is obviously a part of the 
 same calcareous ridge. There are two towns in 
 Skopelos ; the largest of which, situated on the 
 eastern coast of the island, contains more than a 
 thousand houses, and twelve Greek churches ; the 
 other, called Glossa, is situated on the front of a 
 steep hill, which rises from the western coast. The 
 population of the island is exclusively Greek ; and, 
 like that of the other isles of the Archipelago, is 
 more immediately subject to the government of 
 the Capitan Pasha, the great admiral of Turkey. 
 This maritime government, on the whole, is much 
 less oppressive than that of the continental pro- 
 vinces •, chiefly owing to the diminished facility of 
 access, which, in Turkey, as I have before ob- 
 served, often determines the comparative freedom 
 of a city or district. The habits of the Turks are
 
 SKOPELOS. 89 
 
 singularly unfavourable to maritime power ; and 
 the efforts they have occasionally made on the 
 seas which surround them, have been rather the 
 transient effects of personal activity in the Capitan 
 Pasha of the time, than any permanent capabilities 
 of the nation. The internal government of most 
 of the isles of the Archipelago is left to the 
 Greeks, who compose their population ; and the 
 irregular collection of a tribute is almost the only 
 way in which the power of the Porte is manifested 
 in its smaller insular possessions. 
 
 The greater part of Skopelos is uncultivated ; but 
 there are some portions of land, especially in the 
 vicinity of the town, which produce grain, as well 
 as grapes, olives, and other fruits of this climate. 
 A party of the sailors walked over to the town, 
 while we remained in the port of Panermo, from 
 which it is about five miles distant. Demetrius, 
 who accompanied them, purchased for us some 
 wine of the island, grapes, figs, and a species of 
 cake made of the must of wine, boiled with a 
 certain proportion of flour, so as to form it into a 
 paste sufficiently agreeable in flavour. * The wine 
 of Skopelos has long had repute, and is certainly 
 preferable to many of those of continental Greece. 
 This circumstance may perhaps afford some proof 
 that the ancient name of the isle was Peparethos ; 
 the excellence of the Peparethian wine being al- 
 
 * This cake in its composition somewhat resembles the mus- 
 facetim, or bride cake of the Romans, which we find described 
 by Cato, de R. R. cap. 121.
 
 90 INHABITANTS OF SKOPELOS. 
 
 hided to by various writers, aild particularly by 
 Pliny, who mentions that the physician Apollo- 
 doms strongly recommended its use to King 
 Ptolemy ; adding, that it was not agreeable till it 
 had been kept six years. * The inhabitants of the 
 isle are described to be an active industrious 
 people, though without much education or refine- 
 ment. The modern Greeks, like their ancestors, 
 are fond of discriminating the peculiar character 
 of the population, even in small districts and 
 towns; and a recent geographical work in the 
 Romaic language, which I have already referred 
 to, is remarkably minute in giving such charac- 
 teristics for the localities in this part of Greece, of 
 which the authors were natives. Their descrip- 
 tion of the people of Skopelos and Skiathos is 
 quoted below, and shows copiousness of epithets, 
 whatever may be the accuracy of the picture, f 
 
 On the 14th we sailed from Panermo, endeavour- 
 ing to reach either the gulph of Volo or the island 
 of Skiathos > but the wind was still adverse, and 
 after advancing ten or twelve miles our captain 
 sought shelter in the port of Agnotas, on the western 
 side of Skopelos, and some distance to the south of 
 
 * Plin. lib. xiv. cap. 7. Demosthenes speaks also of the 
 wines of Peparethos, and Ovid describes the isle as " nitidae 
 ferax olivse." Metam. lib. vii. 470. 
 
 •f- In the Titay^ix NEWTEftxrj, the inhabitants of Skopelos are 
 
 Stated as being ETrt/uEXEi?, <£»Xcm/u.o», ly^t^n^ocncn, %a,£ovroM, $iX*]3bv£;, 
 
 aj/a&EK ojuw?, axaWalw, sXa^goj. Their less estimable neighbours 
 
 of Skiathos are described as wcvngoj eij wxgo, a.jxa.Qn:, oAtya «mt/jU«T0jj
 
 SKIATHOS. 91 
 
 the town of Glossa. This coast, though high, is 
 more fertile than the southern, and exhibits traces 
 of a better cultivation. The port of Agnotas, 
 winding between limestone cliffs, forms a deep and 
 secluded bay, which seems as a small inland lake, 
 and affords an excellent harbour to the traders of 
 these seas. We found here three Greek vessels, 
 driven in like ourselves, either by a real or sup- 
 posed necessity, and lying closely moored under 
 the cliff. Besides these vessels, we saw in the bay 
 of Agnotas the wrecks of two small sloops, which, 
 we were told, had belonged to the pirates of the 
 isles. 
 
 On the 15th we again put to sea ; and, passing 
 several small isles, covered with oaks, pines, and 
 shrubs, approached the shores of Skiathos, and 
 sailed slowly along the south coast of this island. 
 The name of Skiathos is asserted to be derived 
 from the fact, that at the rising of the sun in the 
 summer solstice, the shadow of Mount Athos is 
 projected thus far over the intervening sea.* The 
 island is somewhat larger than that of Skopelos, 
 and the soil more fertile; but its inhabitants are 
 in bad repute among their neighbours for the want 
 of industry and integrity ; and there seems some 
 foundation for one part at least of this charge, 
 since their lands are cultivated in great measure by 
 peasants who come over from Skopelos and the 
 Negropont. The town of Skiathos stands on a 
 
 * Pliny speaks of the shadow of this mountain as stretching 
 to Myrrhina in Leninos, when the sun is going down.
 
 92 SKIATHOS. 
 
 peninsula on the north side of the island, and con- 
 tains about 200 houses. On the southern coast is 
 a wide and secure port, with a small town near it, 
 called Oraio-Kastro. A Greek bishop resides in 
 the island, taking his title conjointly from Skiathos 
 and Skopelos, over both which isles his jurisdiction 
 extends. 
 
 The coast of the continent opposite Skiathos 
 was the scene of the first great calamity which 
 befell Xerxes in his Grecian expedition. A sudden 
 storm from the east drove a number of his vessels 
 upon the coast ; where, according to Herodotus, 
 more than five hundred were wholly lost, together 
 with many men, and much of the provision and 
 treasure belonging to the army. * 
 
 On the evening of this day we entered the strait 
 between the northern coast of Negropont, the 
 ancient Euboea, and that part of Thessaly which 
 was formerly called Magnesia ; and when the night 
 closed upon us, were off the high and precipitous 
 cape which limits, on the eastern side, the entrance 
 to the gulf of Volo. This was the promontory 
 CEantium of the ancients. It derives its present 
 name from the town of Trikeri, which has an ex- 
 traordinary situation on its western front, high in 
 level above the sea, but surmounted behind by the 
 
 * This part of the sea between the gulph of Salonica and the 
 Negropont appears to have been anciently called Artemisium, 
 probably from a temple of Diana, which stood on the coast at 
 the south-east angle of Magnesia. The mountain called Tisaeus, 
 mentioned by Apollonius Rhodius, is easily recognized in its 
 situation to the east of Trikeri.
 
 TRIKERI. 93 
 
 conical summit of the promontory of yet greater 
 height. This town is one instance, among many 
 others, of the irregular distribution of territory 
 and government in Turkey. It is of very modern 
 origin, no long time having elapsed since the Trike- 
 riotes inhabited a small island called Trikeri, in 
 the strait between Eubcea and the main-land. 
 From this spot they were driven by the frequent 
 and destructive incursions of the pirates ; and by a 
 common consent they transferred their name and 
 abode to the peninsular promontory on which the 
 town now stands. Its situation, and other circum- 
 stances, have hitherto procured an exemption from 
 the power of the Vizier of Albania, and the place 
 is subject to the court of Constantinople and the 
 Capitan Pasha. It enjoys, however, much more 
 actual liberty than is common among the Greek 
 towns ; and the effect of this, as well as of its 
 favourable position, has been that of creating an 
 extensive and prosperous commerce. Placed at 
 the entrance of the gulfs of Volo and Zeitun, it 
 commands a large traffic in corn, oil, and the other 
 products of the country, and carries on also a 
 valuable export trade in the sponges which are 
 gathered in abundance on these shores. The town 
 contains about 400 houses, and the population is 
 exclusively of Greeks. The occupations of almost 
 all the inhabitants are those connected with the 
 sea and commerce, and they have obtained a high 
 repute for industry and enterprize. Many of the 
 Greek merchants of the place are possessed of
 
 94 TRIKERI. 
 
 considerable wealth, derived from their trading 
 adventures : they are become extensive ship- 
 owners, and employ their capital actively in the 
 furtherance of their various traffic. 
 
 A few years ago, M. Gropius, now better known 
 as one of the German residents in Athens, obtained 
 the appointment of English Vice-Consul at Trikeri, 
 as a place subordinate to the consulship at Salonica. 
 Either from commercial jealousy, however, or 
 other causes of disagreement, the merchants of 
 Trikeri violently opposed themselves to M. Gro- 
 pius ; and after a short residence there, the grounds 
 of quarrel became so multiplied and personal, that 
 this gentleman was compelled to leave the place, to 
 which he has since not been able to return. The 
 importance of Trikeri as the situation of an English 
 resident would probably be in reference to the timber 
 of the Negropont : in this island, and particularly in 
 the northern parts of it, there are extensive forests 
 of oak, much of the timber of which is of large size, 
 and well adapted to the purposes of ship-building. 
 A certain quantity is at present cut down every 
 year ; and though the Turkish population of Ne- 
 gropont is notorious throughout Greece for its pe- 
 culiar bigotry and harshness, it does not seem that 
 any particular impediment is thrown in the way of 
 this traffic. The government of the island, con- 
 jointly with a district of the opposite continent, 
 is in the hands of a Pasha j and an arrangement 
 with this governor, whose provincial authority is 
 probably sufficient for the purpose, might pro-
 
 MOUNT PELION, 95 
 
 cure a regular and large supply of timber from the 
 forests of the country. In the event of this becom- 
 ing a national object, Trikeri would be a desirable 
 situation for an English resident ; combining also 
 the advantage of position at the opening of the 
 two gulfs, which form the principal outlets for the 
 produce of Thessaly. 
 
 The gulf of Volo, expanding from the channel 
 underneath the promontory of Trikeri, forms a 
 large semicircular bay towards the north, penetrat- 
 ing deeply into the district of the ancient Mag- 
 nesia, and surrounded by mountains, some of which 
 are well known to classical lore. The gulf itself was 
 the Sinus Pagaseticus, or Pelasgicus of the ancients, 
 consecrated to history as the first scene of the me- 
 morable Argonautic expedition. lolcos, the spot 
 from which Jason is said to have embarked his 
 band of adventurers, was at the head of this # inlet. 
 It exists no longer ; but nature is more durable in 
 her features, and the celebrated Pelion is seen 
 rising from the shores of the gulf, its sides covered 
 as in ancient times with forests of venerable growth, 
 springing perhaps from the same soil as those from 
 which the ship Argo was framed, f The name of 
 Pelion is consecrated by other recollections as the 
 region of the Centaurs, and as one of the hills by 
 which it was fabled that the Giants meant to climb 
 the heights of Olympus, and to dethrone the so- 
 vereign of the gods. The respective forms of 
 
 * Meletius, but on doubtful authority, has placed the site of 
 lolcos on that of the modern Volo. 
 f rinXjcn dwor»$iAXo». II. ii. v. 757.
 
 96 COUNTRY ROUND MOUNT PELION. 
 
 Ossa and Pelion explain well that part of the fable 
 which supposes the former mountain to have been 
 olaced upon the latter. Ossa has a steeply conical 
 form, terminating in a point. Pelion, on the other 
 hand, exhibits a broad and less abrupt outline. As 
 it is viewed from the south, two summits are seen 
 at a considerable distance from each other, — a 
 concavity between them, but so slight as almost to 
 give the effect of a table-mountain, upon which 
 fiction might readily suppose that another hill like 
 Ossa should recline. The trees upon the sides and 
 skirts of Pelion are chiefly the beech, chesnut, and 
 plane, of which the chesnut-trees in particular are 
 remarkable for their size and venerable age. 
 
 The gulf of Volo took its ancient name from 
 Pagasae, the port of the city of Pherae. This city, 
 situated near the lake Bcebe, and ten miles from 
 the head of the gulf, is well known to history from 
 the character of its three successive monarchs, Ly- 
 cophron, Jason, and Alexander ; but I am not 
 aware that any ruins exist to testify its exact 
 position. The modern town of Volo is finely 
 situated at the head of the gulf, and contains 
 about 700 houses, chiefly built of stone. In the 
 same district is the large and populous town of 
 Makrinitza, said to contain nearly 1200 houses, and 
 surrounded by a country which, though hilly, is 
 extremely fertile in its produce of oil and wine. 
 The population is Greek, and enjoys a comparative 
 political freedom in forming a part of the property 
 of the Sultan's sister, without being subject to any
 
 COUNTRY ROUND MOUNT PELTON. 97 
 
 provincial government. Numerous other towns or 
 villages are scattered over the hilly and richly- 
 wooded country round the skirts of Pelion, in the 
 district of the ancient Magnesia ; the inhabitants of 
 which are partly engaged in agriculture, partly in 
 manufactures connected with those of Ampelachia. 
 The gulf of Volo forms the principal outlet for 
 this tract of country, and from hence there is a 
 large annual export of wheat, oil, tobacco, sponges, 
 &c. — which trade is entirely carried on in Greek 
 vessels, manned by seamen of the country. 
 
 A minute description of the towns and villages 
 in this flourishing tract of country is given in the 
 Modern Greek Geography ; the authors of which 
 were natives of Melies, a town on the skirts of 
 Pelion. The inhabitants of the district are usually 
 called Zagoriotes in the Levant ; from a village, 
 or rather groupe of villages, called Zagora, where 
 there is a considerable school. The Greeks through- 
 out the whole of this region, from Tempe to the 
 gulf of Volo, enjoy certain advantages in situa- 
 tion and commerce, which have already been 
 noticed in the case of the Ampelachians, and which 
 afford them more liberty and greater scope for ex- 
 ertion, than are common to most of their country- 
 men. Much of the literature of modern Greece 
 has come from this quarter. Anthimus Gazi, the 
 conductor of the E^rjj 6 Aoyug at Vienna, is a 
 native of Melies. He has compiled an Hellenic and 
 Romaic Lexicon, of which two volumes are now 
 published, and reputed to possess much merit. He 
 
 VOL. II. II
 
 98 ItEGA AND CORONIUS. 
 
 also published in 1799, in the Romaic language, 
 the Philosophical Grammar of our countryman 
 Benjamin Martin, under the title of Tga^fixTixri t«3v 
 <I><Ao<ropjxwv Ethpijiucv. Kavra, a physician of Am- 
 pelachia, has translated the Arithmetic and Al- 
 gebra of Euler, and also the Abbe Millot's Elements 
 of History. Daniel Philipidi of Melies, the town 
 above mentioned, has published translations of La- 
 lande's Astronomy, and of the Logic of Condillac. 
 
 Velestino, a town near Volo, is the birth-place 
 of the unfortunate Rega ; a Greek, whose memory 
 is endeared to his countrymen, as well by his writ- 
 ings, as by the fate he met with, while labour- 
 ing for the liberties of his country. His active zeal 
 at the time of the French revolution rendered him 
 obnoxious at Constantinople, and he was way-laid 
 and murdered near Belgrade. Besides many patriotic 
 songs and ballads, some of which have been made 
 known to the English reader, he translated several 
 works from the French and German into his native 
 language. His friend Coronius, who was murdered 
 at the same time with him, was the author of Greek 
 translations of Gesner's Death of Abel, of the 
 Galatea of Florian, and of the New Robinson 
 Crusoe and Psychologia of Camp. 
 
 The rocks about Trikeri and the gulph of Volo 
 are primitive, consisting chiefly of marble, mica- 
 slate, talc-slate, serpentine, &c. Connecting this 
 observation with those previously made, it will be 
 found that nearly all the coasts bordering on the 
 gulf of Salonica belong to the primitive form-
 
 PASSAGE UP THE GULF OF ZEITUN. 99 
 
 ations ; and it is worthy of remark that the part of 
 t the country intervening between Ossa and the 
 strait of Eubcea, contains a large proportion of the 
 Magnesian class of rocks. I have seen some fine 
 specimens of asbestus, amianth, &c. from that part 
 of it in the vicinity of the gulf of Volo. The 
 Negropont, which forms a continuation of the same 
 line, also contains a good deal of serpentine in the 
 ridge of mountains which runs through this isle. 
 
 Our voyage was still retarded by adverse winds, 
 and two days were occupied in the passage from 
 Trikeri up the gulf of Zeitun. It was scarcely 
 possible, however, to regret this delay, while en- 
 joying the magnificent beauty of the shores which 
 surrounded our inland navigation. On the left 
 hand were the fertile plains and richly-wooded hills 
 which form the coast of Eubcea, gradually rising 
 towards the mountains in the centre of the isle : on 
 our right we had the bold outline of the Thessalian 
 coast, with the ridges of Pelion-and Othrys in 
 the back-ground : in front of us we saw in the 
 distance the loftier summits of the chain of GCta, 
 deeply covered with their winter snows. As our 
 vessel slowly proceeded up the gulf, I observed 
 near its northern shore the two steep and insulated 
 rocks, anciently called Deucalion and Pyrrha^ 
 which mark the point upon the coast where the 
 region of Pthiotis succeeds to that of Magnesia. 
 At some distance beyond, but removed two or 
 three miles from the shore, was the site of Cre- 
 mastc, or the Pelasgic Larissa ; a city rendered il-
 
 100 PASSAGE UP THE GULF OF ZEITUN. 
 
 lustrious as the capital of Achilles ; whose territory, 
 as we learn from Homer, extended along this coast 
 to the head of the Maliac Gulf and the banks of 
 the Sperchius, comprising the wide and fertile plains 
 which intervene between the mountain-chains of 
 Othrys and (Eta. 
 
 The region of Pthiotis, one of the five divisions 
 of ancient Thessaly, is further remarkable in his- 
 tory as one of the earliest seats of the Hellenians or 
 Helladians ; that people, who, after various inter- 
 mediate habitations, appear at length to have 
 formed the basis of the great Doric emigration 
 which carried their name, as well as the dialect and 
 government of this northern part of Greece, into 
 every part of the Peloponnesus. Pthiotis formed a 
 part of the ancient kingdom of Deucalion, the al- 
 leged founder of the Helladian race * ; and the Gre- 
 cian history of the deluge connects that event with 
 this part of Thessaly, as well as with the country 
 further to the west, bordering on the river Ache- 
 lous. This region is traversed from east to west by 
 the chain of Mount Othrys, forming the northern 
 boundary of the gulf, and of the broad valley of the 
 Sperchius, further to the west. Of this chain, which 
 may be considered as connecting itself with Pelion 
 towards the east, the loftiest point is near the head 
 of the gulf, formed by ridges which successively 
 
 * See Herodot. lib. i. 56. — Hellenus, from whom this 
 people derived their name, was son to Deucalion, and their 
 later appellation of Dorians was obtained from Dorus, the son 
 of Hellenus.
 
 PASSAGE UP THE GULF OF ZEITUN. 10] 
 
 recede from the shore to a central point, at some dis- 
 tance from the coast. There is a gracefulness in the 
 outline and general contour of the mountain, de- 
 rived in part from this gradual recession of its 
 ridges ; partly from the luxuriant vegetation, and 
 the foliage of the olive-groves which cover its lower 
 slopes towards the sea. Lucan calls it the " ne- 
 " morsous Othrys *;" and though Virgil applies the 
 epithet of " Othryn nivalem," yet at this time, the 
 17th December, there was scarcely any snow upon 
 it. t The height of the mountain, however, is very 
 considerable, and perhaps there would be no exag- 
 geration in supposing it to exceed 3000 feet. 
 
 The scenery became still more interesting as we 
 advanced towards the head of the gulf; where 
 the channel, leaving a wide bay to the north-west, 
 makes a sudden turn round the angle of Euboea, 
 and takes a south-east direction to form the sea of 
 Euboea, and the celebrated strait of the Euripus. It 
 seemed here as if we were in a great inland lake, girt 
 round by a magnificent outline of mountains, pro- 
 montories, and vallies. The point of Euboea, round 
 which the channel winds, forms a lofty conical hill, 
 ascending from the sea in a slope, richly cultivated, 
 but broken at intervals by masses of rock project- 
 ing from the surface, amidst which stands the small 
 town of Lithada. This, which was formerly the 
 promontory of Ceneus, is finely opposed to that of 
 Echinus, and to the fertile slopes and swelling 
 
 * Lucan. Phars. lib. vi. 338. " Piniger Othrys," Valcr. 
 place, vi. 392. 
 
 f iPnt'id. lib. vii. 675. 
 
 H 3
 
 102 VIEW OF THERMOPYLAE. 
 
 ridges of Mount Othrys, on the northern side the 
 channel. The eye, carried along the latter shore, 
 where it sweeps round toward the north-west, to form 
 the Malaic bay, reposes for a moment on a broad 
 valley, bounded on each side by a precipitous barrier 
 of mountains, through which the Sperchius flows to 
 the sea. The mountains forming the southern bound- 
 ary of this valley belong to the great chain of CEta ; 
 a magnificent groupe, which occupied the whole of 
 the landscape in front of us, presenting to the sea 
 a line of cliffs of vast height, and almost perpendi- 
 cular in form ; and beyond these, numerous elevated 
 summits passing into the remote distance. But 
 the point which most interested us in this view, was 
 the place of the ever-memorable Thermopylae ; a 
 spot which more than almost any other historical 
 scene, has been sanctified by the veneration of suc- 
 ceeding ages. At this moment indeed, looking upon 
 it in front, we did not see the Pass as a distinct fea- 
 ture ; but its situation was indicated by the heights of 
 CEta approaching the sea, near to the mouth of the 
 Sperchius ; and its importance testified by the view 
 of this mountain-chain, extending itself far towards 
 the west, to form, in conjunction with Pindus, a 
 barrier between the northern and southern parts of 
 Greece.
 
 103 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 STELIDA. ZEITUN. — JOURNEY THROUGH THE SOUTHERN 
 
 PART OF THESSALY TO LARISSA. PASS OF THOMOKO. 
 
 FIELD OF PHARSALIA. ARRIVAL AT LARISSA. INTER- 
 VIEW WITH VELI PASHA. RETURN TO ZEITUN. — DAN- 
 GEROUS PASSAGE OVER THE CHAIN OF OTHRYS. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 17th of December, we cast 
 anchor opposite to Stelida, a small town, built on 
 the ascent of a hill, near the northern extremity of 
 the gulf. Beyond this point to the mouth of the 
 river, the water has been rendered very shallow by 
 the deposit of alluvial soil, which makes it necessary 
 for all vessels coming to the gidf to take in their 
 cargoes here. Whether the situation of Stelida cor- 
 responds with that of trie Thebes of Thessaly, which 
 Livy describes as the only maritime emporium of 
 Pthiotis, I will not pretend to determine. * We 
 landed here, and entered the town, which is ren- 
 dered agreeable by a grove of olives and orange- 
 trees surrounding it. Our Tartar conducted us to 
 the habitation of the Aga commanding the place, 
 whom we found sitting on a cushion in a small 
 room, with several Albanian soldiers attending him ; 
 himself an Albanian, and habited in the costume of 
 his country. The subjection of Thessaly to Ali 
 Pasha has introduced into every part of the country 
 
 * Lib. xxxix. cap. 25. Ptolemy and Strabo disagree mate- 
 rially about the situation of tins place. 
 
 ii 4
 
 104 ROUTE TO ZEITUN. 
 
 these fierce-looking subjects of his western territory, 
 who are well fitted to maintain his power. The 
 Aga received us with politeness ; gave us coffee 
 and pipes j and there being no horses in the town, 
 provided asses for our conveyance to the city of 
 Zeitun, which is about ten miles distant. 
 
 After the long delay in our voyage, I wap, anxious 
 to commence immediately my journey to Larissa ; 
 the winter being now so far advanced as to make it 
 desirable that we should reach Athens as soon as 
 possible. I set out, therefore, the same evening 
 for Zeitun, attended by Sulema and Demetrius ; 
 my friend, meanwhile, returning to the vessel, to 
 wait there till Demetrius had provided a residence 
 in the town, where he might remain during my ab- 
 sence. The Spartan who had been our fellow- 
 passenger from Salonica, a tall and robust man, 
 was desirous also of reaching Zeitun this evening, 
 but could not procure either horse or ass to carry 
 him thither. Hearing him utter many complaints 
 on this subject, I expressed surprise that he could 
 not resolve to walk thus far; and pointing across 
 the gulf to the pass of Thermopylae, which was 
 distinctly seen from the eminence where we stood, 
 asked him whether he believed his ancestors, under 
 Leonidas, had come on horseback to defend Greece 
 against the Persians? I knew that he was acquainted 
 with the history of this place, as he had already 
 pointed it out to me while sailing up the gulf. 
 He appeared to feel my remark more than I had 
 expected j but the suggestion was of no avail, and
 
 ROUTE TO ZEITUN. 105 
 
 he chose to return to the vessel, rather than de- 
 grade himself by travelling on foot. This feeling 
 is habitual in the country ; and neither Turk nor 
 Greek, above a certain rank, will submit to be seen 
 as pedestrians otherwise than in tardily pacing 
 through the streets of their towns. 
 
 The road to Zeitun conducted us along the skirt of 
 the hills which border on the gulf, rising into the 
 chain of Othrys towards the north. We were be- 
 mghted before our arrival at the city ; but the light 
 of a full moon guided our way, and gave at the 
 same time an obscure grandeur of effect to the re- 
 markable landscape which lay before us. The 
 night was perfectly serene ; the unruffled surface 
 of the bay reflected from the moon-beams a softened 
 light which was strikingly contrasted with the dark 
 cliffs of Thermopylae, rising abruptly from the 
 opposite shores, and broken at intervals by deep 
 hollows and recesses of the mountain. The snow- 
 covered summits of CEta appeared in the distance 
 with a faint aerial outline, which might almost have 
 been thought a delusion on the sight. The course 
 of the Sperchius was marked by a track of silvery 
 light, winding through the broad valley beneath 
 us, and finally mingling with the waters of the gulf. 
 To this river Achilles made a vow of his hair, should 
 he return in safety from the walls of Troy, — a vow 
 of which his fate prevented the fulfilment. It is one 
 of the most considerable of the Grecian streams, 
 and though no longer the Sperchius of ancient 
 times, yet its later name of Hellada consecrates to
 
 106 ZEITUN. 
 
 memory the history of the country through which 
 it flows. * 
 
 Zeitun is situate on the ascent of a hill, on the 
 northern side of the valley, and at the distance of 
 about three miles from the river. The summit of 
 the hill, which is of conical form, is crowned by the 
 remains of a castle of -considerable extent. The 
 effect of the buildings of the town, rising above 
 each other on this steep ascent, and on other 
 adjoining eminences, is at once singular and pic- 
 turesque. In the lower part of the town are seve- 
 ral mosques, surrounded as usual by cypresses ; 
 some of which trees are here of remarkable size. 
 Zeitun contains about 600 houses, and a population 
 partly Turkish, partly Greek. The commerce of 
 the place is rendered considerable by the large pro- 
 duce of grain in the valley of the Hellada, and in 
 other districts of this country ; the greater part of 
 which is brought down to the gulf for exportation. 
 The inland navigation afforded by this arm of the 
 sea, is very beneficial to the interior of Thessaly ; 
 and the more so, as, with the exception of Volo, 
 there are no ports on its eastern side to give an out- 
 let to the produce of its plains. 
 
 There can be little doubt that the site of Zeitun 
 corresponds with that of the ancient Lamia, the 
 city where the Macedonian Antipater sustained a 
 
 * There is reason to believe that this change of name, in com- 
 mon doubtless with many others in Greece, took place during 
 the period of the later Greek empire. The Scholiast upon a 
 funeral oration composed by Manuel Palaeologus, says, that from 
 his time, the Sperchius received the name of Hellas.
 
 ZEITUN. 107 
 
 siege, and finally repelled the Athenian general 
 Leosthenes ; and which was afterwards besieged by 
 the last Philip of Macedon, when allied with the 
 Romans against Antiochus. * Livy, in describing 
 the latter event, mentions the difficulty the Mace- 
 donians experienced in making their mines, in con- 
 sequence of the quantity of flint in the rock. 
 It is worthy of notice that Zeitun stands on that 
 calcareous formation so common in Greece, which 
 is remarkable from the quantity of silex it con- 
 tains, — a proof of the accuracy of the historian's 
 narrative. At some distance to the east of the 
 town, I observed a large stream, which might admit 
 the name of river, bursting forth suddenly from un- 
 derneath these rocks, and flowing towards the sea. 
 
 It was too late when I arrived at Zeitun to apply 
 to the Bey of the city, and I took up my night's 
 lodging in the wretched apartment of a Khan. 
 At an early hour the following morning, I set out 
 on my journey for Larissa ; the Tartar having made 
 use of his passport to procure post-horses of a better 
 kind than those to which we had been accustomed. 
 Besides the sourndze who had charge of these, an- 
 other Turk from the post-house attended me, who, 
 though his dress somewhat resembled that of a 
 
 * Strabo describes it as thirty stadia from the river, which 
 corresponds with the actual distance of Zeitun. Livy, who is 
 more minute, mentions its position on a hill, overlooking the 
 broad valley between the city and Heraclea, at the entrance 
 of Thermopylae ; which town the Romans were besieging at 
 the same time that Philip directed his force against Lamia. 
 I jb. xxxii. 1.; xxxvi. 25.
 
 108 ROUTE TO LARISSA. 
 
 Tartar, appeared to have no other office than that 
 of urging the horses forward with his whip. De- 
 metrius remained at Zeitun, to prepare for my 
 friend's arrival there. 
 
 Larissa is distant from Zeitun about sixty miles, in 
 a northerly direction. We commenced our route by 
 ascending the chain of hills prolonged from Mount 
 Othrys, and forming the northern boundary of the 
 valley of the Hellada. These hills send down numer- 
 ous successive ridges, with deep intervening hollows, 
 at right angles to the direction of the valley. The 
 country is open, bleak, and uncultivated ; the rock 
 still entirely calcareous. Towards the higher part 
 of the ascent, there is a derveni, or pass, guarded by 
 Albanian soldiers ; just beyond which, the situation 
 of the road affords a very remarkable view of the val- 
 ley of the Hellada. The eye follows it, for at least 
 thirty miles, in a direct line towards the east-north- 
 east, for many miles continuing very broad, and 
 with a perfectly level surface ; then gradually con- 
 tracting, and ascending upwards among the moun- 
 tains, from which the Hellada has its origin. These 
 mountains are near the central part of the Grecian 
 continent, where the chains of GEta and Pindus 
 connect themselves with each other, and with that 
 of Parnassus approaching from the south. Look- 
 ing up the valley in this direction, I saw in the dis- 
 tance a' very lofty snow-covered summit, which I 
 conceive to be the Mount Tymphrestus of the an- 
 cients. * From the same point also, I enjoyed a 
 
 * See Strabo, lib. ix. cap. 6.
 
 ROUTE TO LARISSA. 10Q 
 
 striking view of the whole groupe of Mount (Eta, 
 on the opposite side the valley, and particularly 
 of the vast cliffs which descend from these moun- 
 tains even to the very level of the river, forming a 
 singular contrast with the dead level of the plain, 
 through which it flows. 
 
 The valley of the Hellada is well cultivated 
 throughout the greater part of its extent, the pro- 
 duce being chiefly grain ; and where it descends 
 into the low lands near the sea, it affords a luxu- 
 riant pasture to the horses and sheep, which graze 
 in vast numbers over its surface. 
 
 This extraordinary landscape is very interesting 
 in a geographical point of view. It shews all the 
 eastern part of that great mountain-barrier which 
 traverses in this place the continent of Greece; 
 and in the continuity of the precipitous outline 
 presented to the eye, explains all the importance of 
 that narrow but celebrated pass, where the Greeks 
 so well fought for the liberties of their country. 
 
 Passing over some miles of an open rugged 
 country, at the summit of this chain of hills, we 
 descended to the Khan of Berbent, about ten miles 
 from Zeitun. Thence we continued our descent 
 into an extensive plain ; at the western extremity 
 of which is a lake, ten or twelve miles in circum- 
 ference, with two or three small villages near its 
 banks. We passed within a short distance of one 
 of these villages called Douchori, which my guides 
 informed me was the private property of AH Pasha. 
 The landscape here would be pleasing, were it not
 
 110 ROUTE TO LARISSA. 
 
 for the deficiency of wood, which is common to all 
 the plains of Thessaly. I am not aware that this 
 lake is mentioned by any ancient writer ; and from 
 its situation on a high level, the waters, now accu- 
 mulated here, might formerly perhaps have been 
 carried off by artificial means. On the northern 
 side is another range of hills, low in their elevation 
 above the plain, but which may also be considered 
 to form apart of the chain ofOthrys. On their as- 
 cent stands the small town of Avrachi, inhabited 
 by husbandmen and shepherds, and belonging to 
 the private property of Veli Pasha. * 
 
 Continuing our progress for some miles over this 
 second range of hills by a rocky and broken road, 
 we came suddenly to the summit of a ridge, which 
 breaks off abruptly towards the north, forming a 
 boundary on this side to the central region of 
 Thessaly, — those great plains which we had be- 
 fore traversed, in descending along the course of 
 the Peneus to Larissa and Tempe. 1 know not 
 that I have ever seen a landscape more singular 
 and magnificent in its features than the one which 
 was before me at this spot, rendered more extraor- 
 dinary by the suddenness with which it met the 
 eye, and by its contrast with the previous scenery 
 
 * Were I to venture a conjecture, I should say that this dis- 
 trict may possibly have been the situation of Melitseum or of 
 Halos, cities mentioned by ancient geographers, but the exact 
 position of which has not been ascertained. See Thucyd. lib. iv. 
 147. Herodot. lib. vii. 197. Also the note of the editors of the 
 French Strabo, torn. iii. p. 498
 
 PASS OF TIIOMOKO. Ill 
 
 through which I had been travelling. At the mo- 
 ment I arrived on the ridge, the sun was shining 
 brightly on the plains beneath, producing an effect 
 of glittering indistinctness over their surface. It 
 seemed like a vast lake above which I stood ; nor 
 was there within a circumference of at least 150 
 miles, a single elevation sufficient to destroy this 
 resemblance. What is appearance now, might once 
 have been reality ; and it is impossible to look down 
 upon this great basin, its flat unvaried surface, and 
 the barrier of mountains every-where surrounding 
 it, without giving faith to the tradition that it was 
 once covered by water. The impression is more 
 forcible from this point of view, than from any 
 other in which I surveyed the plains of Thessaly. 
 
 At this important entrance into the plains from 
 the south, stood the ancient city of Thaumaci ; 
 and the modern Thomoko occupies the same re- 
 markable site, on a lofty pinnacle of hill, to the 
 left of the ravine along which the road descends. 
 The houses of the town, which is of considerable 
 size, climb the steep declivity of the hill, and the 
 summit is crowned by a castle, which in its situa- 
 tion seems almost to overhang the plains below. 
 The extraordinary view from this spot has not 
 escaped the notice of ancient writers ; and Livy 
 asserts, that the name of Thaumaci was obtained, 
 as an expression of its wonderful character. * The 
 
 * It has been considered doubtful whether this is the Thau- 
 inakia mentioned by Homer, as one of the four towns under the 
 rule of Philoctctcs. Iliad, ii. 71 (J. The editors of the French
 
 112 PASS OF THOMOKO. 
 
 description given by this historian of the place, 
 and. of the landscape, in relating the unsuccessful 
 siege of Thaumaci by Philip, is equally remarkable 
 for accuracy and spirit. From the passage which 
 is quoted below, it will be seen that Livy adopts 
 the same comparison of the plains to a great sea, 
 spread below the eye. * This resemblance is much 
 increased by the particular outline of the moun- 
 tains forming their boundary, of which I cannot 
 convey a better idea, than by giving Pliny's short 
 but emphatic description of them ; " Omnes thea- 
 trali modo inflexi, cuneatis ante eos quinquaginta 
 quinque urbibus." t This form of outline is most 
 remarkable on the southern side of the plain, 
 where it is seen to form one vast semicircular 
 sweep, even from the foot of the Meteora rocks, as 
 far as to a ridge of hills which stretch forward into 
 it, a little to the west of Thaumaci. These hills, 
 though of inconsiderable height, yet from their 
 
 Strabo seem to regard the Thaumakia of Homer as situated in 
 Magnesia, but it appears to me more probable, that this was the 
 place designed. Adjoining the modern town are some ruins, 
 belonging perhaps to the ancient city. 
 
 * " Thaumaci a Pylis, sinuque Maliaco per Lamiam eunti, 
 loco alto siti sunt, ipsis faucibus imminentes, quas Coda vocant ; 
 Thessaliaeque transeunti confragosa loca, implicatasque flexibus 
 vallium vias. Ubi ventum ad hanc urbem est, repente, velut 
 maris vasti, sic immensa panditur planities, ut subjectos campos 
 terminare oculis haud facile queas. Ab eo miraculo Thaumaci 
 appellati. Nee altitudine solum tuta urbs, sed quod saxo undi- 
 que abscisso rupibus imposita est." Lib. xxxii. 4. 
 
 f Hist. Nat. lib. iv. c. 8
 
 VIEW FROM THOMOKO. 113 
 
 position conceal that portion of the plains sur- 
 rounding Larissa; — a contraction of the land- 
 scape, which can scarcely be recognized, where 
 all besides is so extensive and magnificent. 
 
 Looking from this distant point of view at the 
 hills, on the opposite side of the plain, extending 
 from behind Trikala and Zarko towards Olympus, 
 I found additional cause to believe from their out- 
 line, that there is much primitive slate country in 
 this district. The geology of a country, as well 
 as its geography, is often best understood where 
 the eye embraces most in a single view. Such an 
 observation at least, should always, if possible, 
 precede and succeed the examination in detail. 
 
 Descending rapidly along the ravine below 
 Thomoko, we arrived at a large Khan, where we 
 halted half an hour, and made a meal on olives, 
 bread, and goats'-milk cheese. At this place, for 
 the first time, my Tartar Sulema shewed himself 
 capable of passion. He wished to buy, or other- 
 wise appropriate, a couple of fowls, which the peo- 
 ple of the Khan were unwilling that he should 
 have. Summoned to the place by the screams of 
 women, I found him beating violently with his 
 whip, the Greek who seemed to be master of the 
 Khan ; and it was with much difficulty I could 
 persuade him to desist from this exercise, which 
 he accompanied with the strongest epithets of 
 abusive contempt. I satisfied the man by imme- 
 diate payment ; and the fowls were given up to 
 Sulema, and slung by the side of the sourudze's 
 
 VOL. II. I
 
 114 TZATALZE. 
 
 horse, as the material for the evening's repast. 
 This Khan, judging from the rate at which we 
 travelled, is about 24 miles from Zeitun. 
 
 We now entered upon the plains; still, how- 
 ever, skirting along the range of low hills, which 
 was before noticed as intercepting the view towards 
 Larissa. Over the whole of this rich and luxu- 
 riant country, scarcely a single tree is to be seen. 
 The tillage also of this part of the plain is very 
 partial and limited, the land being chiefly employed 
 as pasture. Several large villages are scattered 
 over its surface; and our road carried us by, or 
 rather through, two or three Turkish burying- 
 grounds of great extent. There is something im- 
 pressive in these assemblages of tombs, separated 
 in situation from the abodes of men, but placed 
 in the pathway of the traveller, as if to render the 
 lesson more striking from the manner of its appeal 
 to the mind. 
 
 Passing through a narrow defile between lime- 
 stone rocks, in the range of hills just referred to, 
 we entered the eastern portion of the plain ; and 
 just as the moon was rising over the chain of 
 Pelion, arrived at the town of Tzatalze ; a place 
 well known to history under the more celebrated 
 name of Pharsalia, and as the scene of the great 
 battle which gave to Julius Caesar the mastery over 
 the liberties of his country. Tzatalze is the Turk- 
 ish name of the town, but among the Greeks it is 
 still commonly known by that of Phersala. It is 
 situated underneath a rocky and precipitous front
 
 TZATALZE. 
 
 115 
 
 of hill, probably about 500 feet in height, and 
 forming a semicircular sweep towards the north, 
 on which side the town stands : on this hill are the 
 ruins of the ancient castle of Pharsalia. At the 
 distance of half a mile to the north, flows a small 
 river, which is probably the ancient Apidanus ; and 
 beyond this, in the same direction, the plains are 
 open towards Larissa, which is about 22 miles dis- 
 tant. The town is divided into two portions as 
 appears from Strabo to have been anciently also the 
 case ; the largest, which is nearly on the level of 
 the plain, inhabited exclusively by Turks ; the 
 other situated among the rocks on the ascent of 
 the hill, and with a population entirely Greek. In 
 the Turkish town, there are four mosques, and 
 many large houses. The customs of this people, 
 however, prevented me from obtaining a lodging 
 in a private habitation, and I was conducted to a 
 Khan connected with the post-house of the town. 
 Here I supped and spent the evening in company 
 with four or five Turks ; the whole party sitting 
 on mats around the fire. It was a curious groupe ; 
 and amusing to me as an exhibition of Turkish 
 social intercourse. The characteristic taciturnity 
 of the nation was shewn in long pauses, which no 
 one thought himself obliged to break, and which 
 were in fact occupied by the assiduous smoking of 
 all the party. When conversation occurred, it was 
 carried on with a brevity of phrase which might 
 have surpassed even that of the old Spartans, and 
 with a perfect sedateness of manner. The distinct 
 
 i 2
 
 116 FIELD OF PHARSALIA. 
 
 enunciation of the Turks, and perhaps also the 
 simplicity of the Turkish language, increase the 
 effect of this peculiar conciseness; and if the 
 epithet philosophical might be applied to manner 
 alone, would almost in this instance warrant its 
 use. A Tartar, just come from his journey, joined 
 our party in the course of the evening. Scarcely 
 had he seated himself, when he took out his coffee- 
 bag and silver cup, which all these people carry 
 about with them, and made his coffee ; simply by 
 boiling it for a couple of minutes in a small iron- 
 pot over the embers. This beverage seems indis- 
 pensible to the existence of the Turk; and a 
 luxury which he cannot forego. At the evening 
 meal of our party, we all eat, in the Turkish man- 
 ner, with the fingers alone ; the ewer and basin for 
 washing being brought round as usual, both before 
 and after the meal. 
 
 The battle of Pharsalia was fought on the plain 
 adjoining the town, and immediately below the 
 heights which have been described. It was on 
 these heights that Pompey established his camp 
 before the battle ; his army being stationed on dif- 
 ferent points of their acclivity, which is extremely 
 broken and rugged ; the limestone forming itself 
 into cliffs, and masses of naked rock projecting 
 from the outline of the hill. As it was his object 
 to lead Csesar to attack him while in this position, 
 so was it that of the latter to induce Pompey to 
 descend to a battle in the plain. After a compa- 
 rative inaction of some days, Caesar succeeded in
 
 FIELD OF PHARSALIA. 117 
 
 lii9 wishes. The army of Pompey, deriving confi- 
 dence from its numerous cavalry *, descended fur- 
 ther from the position on the heights, and offered 
 battle on equal ground. Its right rested on the 
 banks of a stream, which was doubtless the Api- 
 danus; and the line extended itself westwards, 
 keeping the parallel of the heights in the rear, a 
 position which the actual features of the ground 
 very well illustrate. The skilful manoeuvres of 
 Caesar, and the hardihood of his troops, decided the 
 event. The efforts of the infantry were at first 
 equal, but the cavalry of Pompey, whicli formed 
 his left wing, and on which he placed his chief 
 reliance for outflanking Caesar's army, was com- 
 pletely repulsed by a reserve body of infantry 
 destined to this service, and their defeat speedily 
 involved that of the whole army. Pompey with 
 his remaining troops retreated upon the heights : 
 he entered the praetorium of his camp, but was 
 obliged to fly by the soldiers of Caesar, who had 
 ascended the hill, and stormed the ramparts @f the 
 camp. A body of his troops betook themselves to 
 the higher summits of the hill behind it ; but lines 
 were drawn around them, their position was desti- 
 tute of water, and they were compelled to make a 
 circuitous retreat towards Larissa, and afterwards 
 to submit to the clemency of the victor, in a posi- 
 tion they had taken a few miles from Pharsalia. 
 
 * This army had 7000 cavalry in the field : that of Coesar 
 only one thousand. The infantry of Pompey was more than 
 double that of his adversary. Cacs. Comment, lib. iii. 30. 
 
 I o
 
 118 ARRIVAL AT LARISSA. 
 
 Csesar remained master of the field and of the 
 Roman world. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Pharsalia had been pre- 
 viously signalized by the battle between the Ro- 
 mans under Quintus Flaminius and the Macedo- 
 nians commanded by their king, Philip ; in which 
 the latter was defeated with the loss of 13,000 
 men. This combat, the details of which are given 
 by Polybius and Livy *, and which led to the sub- 
 mission of Philip, took place on the eminences 
 called Cynoscephalae, to the east of Pharsalia. 
 
 At an early hour on the morning of the 20th, 
 I recommenced my journey ; and, crossing the 
 stream of the ancient Apidanus t, traversed the 
 plains towards Larissa, at which place I arrived 
 six hours after quitting Pharsalia. Nothing wor- 
 thy of notice occurred on the route, except a 
 splendid view of Olympus, seen from one point 
 rising immediately over the mosques and minarets 
 of Larissa, and now so deeply covered with snow, 
 that no part of its surface was left exposed above 
 the mountains which lie at its feet. The surface 
 
 * Liv. lib. xxxiii. 6. et seq. 
 
 f There is some confusion in the account Strabo gives of 
 the Apidanus, and its union with the Enipeus ; but it seems 
 most probable that it is the former river which flows in front of 
 Pharsalia ; that it is joined by the Enipeus, a branch of which 
 comes from Thomoko, further to the west ; and that the united 
 stream flows in a northerly direction to join the Peneus between 
 Zarko and Larissa. The epithet of " senex Apidanus," used 
 by Ovid, (Mctam. i. 580.) is well applicable to the tranquil 
 course of this stream through the plains.
 
 VELAttA. 1 19 
 
 of this part of the plain is varied by successive 
 undulations, the lines of eminence having a pretty 
 uniform direction from east to west. Grain is the 
 principal produce of the district, and the appear- 
 ance of the ploughed lands bore a favourable tes- 
 timony to the style of cultivation. There are no 
 inclosures, and the deficiency of wood is equally 
 remarkable as in other parts of the plain. 
 
 Entering Larissa through its wretched and de- 
 caying suburbs, I proceeded to the mansion of the 
 Archbishop, who received me very cordially, and 
 renewed to me at once all the hospitalities of his 
 house and table. I was mortified by learning from 
 him that Veli Pasha had gone a few days before to 
 a hunting residence on the skirts of Ossa, and that 
 the time of his return was by no means certain, 
 though expected every day. This expedition had 
 been planned when I was before at Larissa, and 
 the Pasha had requested, that if I found him ab- 
 sent I would follow him into the country, and stay 
 there as long as was in my power. Desirous of 
 rejoining my friend at Zeitun with all possible 
 speed, I determined to set out the next morning 
 in quest of Veli Pasha, and dispatching my busi- 
 ness with him, to return immediately to Larissa. 
 Having formed this resolution, I sat down to enjoy 
 the society of my friend Velara, who came in soon 
 after my arrival, and remained to dinner. My 
 further observation of this man did not change my 
 former opinion of his merits, and I still found 
 cause to admire the strength of his understanding, 
 
 i h
 
 120 ARRIVAL OF VELI PASHA. 
 
 his powers of satirical humour, and the extent of 
 his acquirements. The character of the Arch- 
 bishop's dinner table was now somewhat changed 
 by the ordinances of the great fast, which precedes 
 and attends the solemnities of Christmas in the 
 Greek church. This fast, which continues forty- 
 days, is observed in the most rigid manner by the 
 Greeks of all classes. Yet there was little reason 
 to complain of the archipiscopal fare, which, 
 though confined entirely to fish and vegetables, 
 was cooked with such variety of skill that even 
 epicurism might have been satisfied with it. 
 
 While strolling along the banks of the Peneus 
 in the evening, I saw a long procession of horse- 
 men approaching the city ; and advancing towards 
 them, found with much satisfaction that it was 
 Veli Pasha, with his officers and attendants, re- 
 turning from the country. In passing near the 
 spot where I stood, the Pasha observed me. He 
 stopped his horse, and accosted me with many 
 expressions of pleasure in seeing me again at 
 Larissa, of which he said, from my long absence, 
 he had begun to despair. He inquired whether I 
 was comfortably lodged in the city, and desired to 
 see me at the Seraglio early the following morn- 
 ing. The horse on which Veli Pasha rode was 
 superbly caparisoned. Albanian soldiers attended 
 him on each side on foot ; and other Albanians of 
 higher rank, as well as several of his principal 
 Turkish officers, formed his retinue on horseback - y
 
 X 
 
 N^ 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 

 
 CONVERSATION WITH THE ARCHBISHOP. 121 
 
 all richly dressed, and many of them mounted on 
 Arabian horses of great beauty. 
 
 I supped alone with the Archbishop this even- 
 ing, in his private chamber. By the combined 
 assistance of broken French, Italian, and Romaic, 
 we contrived to maintain a long conversation, 
 chiefly regarding the present condition of the 
 Greek church, on which subject he gave me some 
 curious details. He entered into a minute com- 
 parison between the government of the Greek and 
 Latin churches ; expressed a decided opinion of 
 the superiority of the former, and declaimed with 
 much emphasis against the abuses and absurdities 
 of the Papal system. This separation, he said, 
 from the bosom of the primitive church, was the 
 first great violation of the unity of the Christian 
 world, and the source of almost all the evils and 
 heresies whicli have since occurred. I ventured 
 to refer to the earlier history of the Greek church, 
 as a proof that schisms might have happened, even 
 without the great leading separation of the Chris- 
 tian church. He continued, however, his invective 
 against the Papal government, and his applauses 
 of the moderate and paternal character of the 
 Greek church ; and I found that this was a topic, 
 which might not be contested without the risk of 
 giving offence. 
 
 The following morning being Sunday, I again 
 attended the service in the metropolitan church of 
 Larissa. It was nearly the same in form as when 
 I before witnessed it, except that on this occa-
 
 122 INTERVIEW WITH VELI PASHA. 
 
 sion, in consequence of the approaching season of 
 Christmas, the Archbishop addressed the congre- 
 gation in a discourse of some length, and in the 
 Romaic language. The subject, though one of 
 practical morality, and involving but little doc- 
 trine, was nevertheless treated with much em- 
 phasis, and a vehemence of action and manner, 
 greater perhaps than was correctly suitable to 
 pulpit eloquence. The composition seemed to be 
 in part extemporary, and shewed considerable 
 fluency of language. 
 
 At 10 o'clock, a Turk came from the Seraglio, 
 to say that Veli Pasha was waiting to see me. 1 
 went thither immediately with the physician Teri- 
 ano j and found the Pasha sitting with his two 
 sons, and attended by his ministers, Pashu Bey 
 and Achmet Bey. He sent his sons out of the 
 room ; desired me to take a place close to him, 
 which they had before occupied, and shewed me a 
 profusion of civilities and attentions. A short in- 
 terval of time was occupied by enquiries respecting 
 our journey to and from Salonica, and our residence 
 in that city. He asked whether we had seen 
 Yusuf Bey ; and was evidently not surprized that 
 his letters had failed, in procuring us any direct 
 attention from the son of Ishmael of Seres. We 
 then proceeded to the medical business which 
 formed the more immediate object of my return to 
 Larissa. Pashu Bey and Achmet Bey were about 
 to quit the room, but Veli Pasha desired them to 
 stay, and they again seated themselves on the
 
 INTERVIEW WITH VELI PASHA. 123 
 
 couches near us. In acquiescence with the wishes 
 of the Pasha, I had drawn up in writing my opinion 
 of his case, and of the mode of treatment that might 
 best be pursued for the relief of his various symptoms. 
 This memoir, which was written in Italian, I now 
 presented to him. He desired Teriano to read it 
 aloud with a Greek translation ; and while this was 
 done, he continued smoking his pipe, listening 
 with much attention, and occasionally stopping 
 to make enquiries or comments upon what he heard. 
 When the reading of the paper was finished, he 
 renewed to me the same acknowledgments he had 
 before expressed. I now made enquiries as to the 
 symptoms which had occurred during the interval 
 of my absence from Larissa j and these he related 
 to me at great length, and with more judgment 
 and good sense than I could have ventured to ex- 
 pect. Veli Pasha may retain many of the deformi- 
 ties of the Turkish character, but he certainly has 
 got rid of many of its prejudices. Some little 
 change in the state of his symptoms had happened 
 during this interval, which modified to a certain 
 extent my recommendation of an immediate plan of 
 treatment. Though my advice in some respects 
 could not be welcome to him, yet he received it 
 in good part ; and promised to adopt, as strictly as 
 possible, all my directions in the method of cure 
 prescribed. 
 
 This medical business lasted more than an hour. 
 At the Pasha's desire I remained with him nearly 
 as long, after it was concluded, answering various
 
 124 MEDICAL VISITS. 
 
 inquiries he made respecting England, the political 
 state of Europe, and the ancient history of differ- 
 ent places in Greece. Pashu Bey took an active 
 part in this conversation ; but Achmet listened in 
 perfect silence, employing his fingers mean- while to 
 taper his mustachios finely to a point, — an occu- 
 pation very common among the Turkish beaux, 
 who pride themselves on the beauty of this feature. 
 Coffee, sherbet, and pipes were brought round to 
 us as usual by the attendants. Veli Pasha was 
 urgent with me to remain some days at Larissa, and 
 spoke much on this subject : but I pleaded the ne- 
 cessity of immediately rejoining my friend at Zei- 
 tun, and with some difficulty obtained his permis- 
 sion to set out the following morning. After an 
 interview of two hours, and the mutual exchange 
 of acknowledgments, I rose to take my leave. He 
 got up himself from his couch, and attended me to 
 the door of the apartment. 
 
 In the afternoon of this day, I went with Velara 
 to visit a Greek physician of Larissa, who desired 
 to ask my opinion about a chronic complaint with 
 which he had been long affected. I found him an 
 agreeable intelligent man ; intimately conversant 
 with ancient Greek literature, and familiar also 
 with the belles-lettres of France and Germany. 
 The Archbishop brought to me also this evening, 
 for medical advice, one of the ministers of the 
 church, whom I found affected with inflammatory 
 sore-throat, attended with some fever. I was 
 about to administer an emetic to my patient, when
 
 CONVERSATION WITH VELAR A. IQ5 
 
 I was told by the Bishop, that this remedy could 
 not now be employed ; that he had officiated at 
 mass in the morning, and that the rites of the church 
 rigidly proscribed the act of vomiting so soon after 
 this ceremony. I remonstrated a little on the sub- 
 ject, but ultimately found it necessary to yield, and 
 to adopt other means for the immediate use of my 
 patient, whose prejudices of course went along with 
 those of his superior. 
 
 I passed this evening with Velara at his own 
 house, and sat with him till a late hour. During 
 part of the time, our conversation turned upon 
 metaphysical topics ; and chiefly on the old Pyr- 
 rhonic doctrine of the non-existence of matter. 
 Velara, as usual, took the sceptical part of the ar- 
 gument, in which he shewed much ingenuity, and 
 great knowledge of the more eminent controver- 
 sialists on this and other similar subjects. He was 
 ignorant, however, of the writings of our country- 
 man Bishop Berkeley, of which I gave him a slight 
 sketch, as bearing upon the topic before us. With 
 the name and philosophy of Hume, I found him 
 already acquainted. Another Greek was with us at 
 the supper-table, who listened attentively to the con- 
 versation, but took little part in it. This was the last 
 time of my seeing Velara ; and it was with a feeling 
 of no common regret, that I left a man thus emi- 
 nently gifted by nature and education, yet fated to 
 loiter away his days in the dull and servile routine of 
 a Turkish Seraglio. 
 
 On the morning of the 22d of December, I finally
 
 126 RETURN TO ZEITUN. 
 
 quitted Larissa, departing from the house of the 
 hospitable Archbishop with a thousand good wishes 
 and benedictions, which his kindness bestowed on 
 me. The Tartar Sulema at his own desire, and au- 
 thorized by Veli Pasha, set out with me again to- 
 wards Zeitun ; our Ioannina Tartar, Osmyn, not 
 meeting me at Larissa, as I had expected. I found 
 that he had returned there from his southern journey, 
 about a fortnight before, but hearing no tidings of 
 us, had proceeded towards Salonica, to ascertain, if 
 possible, what route we had taken. Scarcely had I 
 advanced six miles from Larissa, when I saw a 
 horseman galloping violently after me ; and, await- 
 ing his approach, found it to be Osmyn, who had 
 arrived in the city an hour after my departure, had 
 learnt the direction of my journey, and now came 
 up to reclaim his post in my service. He told me 
 he had been as far as Salonica in quest of us, and 
 seemed to consider that his journey gave him an 
 additional right to attend our further progress to 
 Athens. Sulema, however, would not be driven 
 from his situation ; and though I had wished to 
 send one of them back to Larissa, I found it impos- 
 sible to do this, and was obliged to consent that 
 both should accompany me to Zeitun. Notwith- 
 standing this arrangement, they looked at each 
 other with great surliness ; and each one, as he 
 happened to be alone with me, endeavoured by 
 various gestures and phrases to interest me in his 
 favour. 
 
 I had a dismal ride to Tzatalze, under heavy
 
 ROUTE TO TZATALZE. 127 
 
 and incessant rain, and on roads rendered almost 
 impassable by the quantity of wet which had fallen 
 for the last two days, and which lay in large pools 
 upon the plains. It seemed as if the rainy season, 
 with which we had long been threatened, was now 
 fairly commenced. I gave up all idea of proceed- 
 ing further than Tzatalze this evening, and took 
 up my lodging there in the Greek quarter of the 
 town, having previously tried in vain to procure 
 shelter under a Turkish roof. The two Tartars 
 slept in the same room with me, and I was much 
 amused by the assiduity of their respective en- 
 deavours to recommend themselves to my favour. 
 The superior activity of Osmyn, however, could 
 not be mistaken. He dried my clothes, made me 
 coffee, prepared my supper, and in short was un- 
 ceasingly occupied in my service. . The Greek 
 family, with whom I lodged, were much alarmed by 
 the presence of the Tartars, and scarcely ventured 
 to shew themselves during my stay in the house. 
 
 I found a report prevailing here, which I had 
 heard in several other places, that the English had 
 just given up Santa Maura to Ali Pasha, and that 
 he was immediately going to the coast, with a large 
 body of troops, to take possession of the island. It 
 was easy to conjecture that this could not be true, 
 and the report probably arose from the circum- 
 stance of the Vizier's going down to Prevesa at 
 this time, with a body of five or six thousand men, 
 to reside there for two or three months. Such 
 rumours are often circulated, as I learnt, for the
 
 128 HOUTK fO ZEITUN. 
 
 mere purpose of drawing together quickly the Al- 
 banian soldiers scattered over the country, who are 
 easily allured by the prospect of an expedition 1 or 
 of plunder. 
 
 I was detained at Tzatalze to a late hour the 
 following morning by the want of horses; and 
 those with which we at length set out were, as I 
 afterwards found, forcibly taken by the Turkish 
 post-master from the peasants entering the town, 
 They were of such a description, that before we 
 reached the Khan of Thomoko, the two sourudzes 
 were compelled to stop on the way, and never 
 afterwards rejoined us. Osmyn and Sulema, who 
 were now left alone with me, proposed passing the 
 night at the Khan, and pointed out to me the 
 thick and stormy clouds which were gathering in 
 the evening sky. I was anxious, however, to pro- 
 ceed, knowing that my friend expected me this 
 night ; and having procured a fresh horse to carry 
 my luggage, we continued our route towards Zeitun. 
 When at the summit of the pass of Thomoko, I 
 looked back for the last time on the great plains 
 of Thessaly ; not as I -had before seen them, re- 
 flecting from their whole surface an unvaried blaze 
 of light, but overhung with dark and broken masses 
 of cloud, admitting at intervals the rays of a de- 
 clining wintry sun, and giving to this vast land- 
 scape a wildness of character which was very im- 
 posing. I stopped some time on the summit of the 
 ridge to gaze upon it, and should longer have re- 
 mained at this spot, but that the Tartars hurried
 
 DANGEROUS PASSAGE OVER MOUNT OTHRYS. 129 
 
 me on, representing the advanced time of the day, 
 and the nature of the mountain-road before us. 
 
 Scarcely had we reached the Lake of Douchori, 
 when the storm by which we had long been 
 threatened, burst at once upon us with violent wind 
 and heavy rain, mixed with sleet and snow. It 
 continued and increased as we ascended the chain 
 of Othrys ; and when we arrived at the Khan of 
 Berbent, it was matter of doubt whether we should 
 venture to proceed, or stop for the night at this 
 wretched hovel. After some hesitation we con- 
 tinued our journey. But each moment now became 
 more calamitous to us : the road, in ascending to 
 the higher ridges of the mountain, is narrow, rug- 
 ged, and dangerous ; the night was intensely dark, 
 and the wind and snow beating upon us with un- 
 abated violence. When about two miles from the 
 Khan, Sulema and his horse fell together down a 
 precipitous declivity of rock. I was immediately 
 behind him ; but, though nothing was to be seen, I 
 fortunately heard the noise of his fall, and stopped 
 in time to save myself from the same misfortune. 
 Drawn to the spot by Sulema's cries, Osmyn quitted 
 his own horse, and with equal boldness and activity 
 explored his way to the spot where his brother 
 Tartar lay. Sulema was recovered, though severely 
 bruised by his fall ; and after the interval of about 
 half an hour, the two Tartars rejoined me on the 
 spot where I had remained during this time, with- 
 out venturing to move a step on any side. The un- 
 fortunate horse was left to its fate. We should 
 
 VOL. 11. K
 
 130 DANGEROUS PASSAGE OVER MOUNT OTHRYS. 
 
 now willingly have regained the Khan, but it was 
 as perilous to recede as to advance ; and Osmyn, 
 before desirous to halt for the night, was now the first 
 to urge the necessity of going on. Trusting our- 
 selves entirely to his guidance, (for Sulema was at 
 present as little able to act as myself,) we proceeded 
 on foot, and with extreme caution, following the di- 
 rection of the voice alone, as the obscurity of the 
 night prevented us from seeing more than a few feet 
 on any side. The activity of Osmyn was not less 
 remarkable tl)an his accurate knowledge of this 
 rugged mountain-road ; every winding of which 
 seemed familiar to his recollection, as if he had 
 known them from his earliest boyhood. Yet the 
 route was full of peril and difficulty to us ; and the 
 six midnight hours which I massed on the ridges of 
 Mount Othrys, exposed alike to the dangers of the 
 precipice, and to the tempest and severity of a De- 
 cember sky, made an impression on my memory 
 which will not soon be effaced. It was three hours 
 after midnight, when we arrived at Zeitun. We 
 luckily encountered a man at the post-house, 
 who told us in what part of the city the Frank 
 stranger was lodged ; and proceeding thither, I 
 was fortunate enough to obtain access to the Greek 
 house, where my friend had lived during my ab- 
 sence. Here I found all that was needful to re- 
 lieve me after the toils of my long and comfortless 
 journey.
 
 131 
 
 CHAP. XVI11. 
 
 FROM ZEITUN TO THE PASS OF THERMOPYLAE. DESCRIP- 
 TION OF THE PASS, IN REFERENCE TO ITS ANCIENT 
 
 HISTORY. ASCENT OF THE CHAIN OF C3TA. LEUTERO- 
 
 CHORI. — VALLEY OF THE CEPHISSU3. — PASSAGE OVER 
 THE CHAIN OF MOUNTAINS TO SALONA — VIEW FROM THE 
 SUMMIT. MINERALOGICAL REMARKS. 
 
 Having fulfilled my engagement with Veli Pasha, 
 it now became our plan to proceed immediately to 
 Athens, taking, however, a somewhat circuitous 
 route through the ancient Phocis, for the purpose 
 of visiting the site of Delphi, and other objects of 
 interest in this part of Greece. Before quitting 
 Zeitun, we were called upon to decide between the 
 claims of our two Tartars, each of whom was soli- 
 citous to attend our journey. We finally gave the 
 preference to Osmyn ; who, besides his priority in 
 our service, and his laborious journey to Salonica 
 in quest of us, had a further claim in his superior 
 zeal and activity, of which he had afforded a 
 striking proof in my perilous passage over Mount 
 Othrys. Osmyn, too, had the Buyrouldi of AH 
 Pasha in his hands ; and this passport we found so 
 much more efficacious than that of Veli, that it was 
 an important object to keep it by us. In a country, 
 where unhappily so much is effected by the means 
 of terror, the traveller is compelled to submit to 
 
 k Q
 
 132 PASS OF THERMOPYLAE. 
 
 these usages of despotism, and even to avail himself 
 of their influence. 
 
 We left Zeitun on the morning of the 23d, 
 directing our course towards the pass of Thermo- 
 pylae, which formed the principal object of the 
 day's journey. Traversing the broad swampy 
 plains which form the valley of the Sperchius or 
 Hellada, we crossed this river by a good bridge of 
 modern construction ; at no great distance, pro- 
 bably, from the site of the ancient town of An- 
 ticyra. * The stream of the Hellada is inferior in 
 size to that of the Peneus at Larissa, though at this 
 time much swelled by the rains which had fallen 
 incessantly for some days past. It enters the bay 
 three or four miles below the bridge, flowing 
 entirely through morasses, and divided into dif- 
 ferent channels, so as to correspond well with the 
 description Pausanias gives of this part of its 
 course, t It appears certain, however, that since 
 the time of Herodotus the alluvial depositions of 
 the Sperchius have encroached considerably on the 
 bay, so that this river now enters the sea much 
 lower down, than it did at the period when Ther- 
 mopylae was signalized by the invasion of the 
 Persians, t From the lowness of the level it is pro- 
 bable that some saline impregnation may be given 
 
 * Herodot. lib. vii. 198. Strab. lib. ix. 
 
 + Pausan. lib. x. 20. 
 
 J It appears from the account of Herodotus, that the Asopus 
 and other streams descending from (Eta, which now enter the 
 Sperchius, formerly flowed directly to the sea.
 
 PASS OF THERMOPYLAE. 1S3 
 
 to these marshy plains, rendering them more 
 grateful as pasture to the numerous herds of cattle 
 which feed on their surface. 
 
 We now entered upon that narrow portion of 
 the plain which lies to the south of the Hellada, 
 intervening between this river and the precipitous 
 cliffs of CEta. It was in this district, which had 
 the name of Trachinia, that the vast army of Xerxes 
 was encamped, while the passage of Thermopylae 
 was disputed with him by the Grecian * army. 
 Looking over the ground, and recollecting the 
 estimate which Herodotus gives of the number of 
 the Persians, it is difficult not to believe from this 
 observation alone, that the historian has greatly 
 exaggerated their amount ; unless indeed we sup- 
 pose that a large portion of the army was left on 
 the northern side of the Sperchius, or that the 
 multitude extended far to the west up the valley 
 of this river. Presuming, what is probable from 
 the season of the year, that there had been a long 
 continuance of dry weather, we may believe that 
 much of the marshy ground at the mouth of the 
 Sperchius was capable of bearing the march or 
 
 * See Herodot. lib. vii. 198. et seq. — The name of Trachinia 
 was derived from the town and fortress of Trachis, situated 
 under the cliffs of CEta, about a mile and a half from the en- 
 trance of the pass, and at no great distance from the place where 
 we crossed the Sperchius. This town was rebuilt by the Lace- 
 demonians about 4-26 years A. C, a few stadia from its ancient 
 situation, and took the name of Heraclea, by which we find it 
 afterwards mentioned. Strab. lib. ix. — Thucydides (lib. hi.) 
 states Heraclea to be 10 stadia from Thermopylae, and 20 from 
 the sea. 
 
 K 3
 
 134< PASS OF THERMOPYJLffi. 
 
 encampment of an army ; but with all these allow- 
 ances, there is strong presumption from the ap- 
 pearance of the ground against the accuracy of the 
 historian's statement. 
 
 From the bridge over the river, we proceeded in 
 a south-east direction towards Thermopylae, having 
 on our right hand the Trachinian cliffs of CEta, 
 which rise above into the lofty summits anciently 
 called Kallidromos and Tichius, impending over 
 the pass. * We were made aware of our approach 
 to this memorable spot, as well by the contracting 
 interval between the cliffs and the sea, as by the 
 columns of vapour rising from the hot springs, 
 which have given origin to the name of the strait. 
 We hastened rapidly towards these springs, which 
 are scarcely two miles distant from the bridge. 
 We observed immediately before us the sacred 
 eminence of Anthela, where the council of the 
 Amphictyons was first assembled ; and in the con- 
 tracted pass in which we now stood, saw the ob- 
 stacle that prevented the Persians from bursting at 
 once into Greece, — that produced the battle and 
 the glory of Thermopylae. 
 
 The lapse of 2300 years has indeed made certain 
 changes in the character of this spot ; yet, never- 
 theless, its more remarkable features still remain 
 
 * See Appian De Bello Syriaco, and Livy, xxxvi. c. 16. — 
 Livy's description of Thermopylae is extremely accurate, and 
 by a slight geographical sketch he illustrates well its importance 
 to the safety of Greece. The plan of the pass by M. Barbie 
 du Bocage is on the whole exact, and, bf extending the bay 
 upwards over what is now marsh, accords with the description 
 of Herodotus.
 
 PASS OF THERMOPYLAE. 135 
 
 to attest the integrity of history, and the valour 
 of those who here sacrificed themselves for their 
 country. The traveller must not* it is true, expect 
 to see the waves washing against the narrow road 
 which winds under the rocks of (Eta. A low 
 swampy plain, or what, when I saw it, might well 
 be termed a morass, every- where intervenes between 
 the cliffs and the sea ; and the alluvial depositions 
 of the Sperchius appear to have been greatest on 
 this side the bay, the river now flowing for some 
 distance opposite and parallel to the pass, before it 
 loses itself in the sea. It is certain, however, that 
 as far back as the time of Herodotus, a morass 
 formed one of the boundaries of the pass even in 
 its narrowest part ; and it appears, from his ac- 
 count, that the Phocians had artificially increased 
 this, by allowing the water from the hot springs to 
 spread itself over the surface, with the view of ren- 
 dering the passage yet more impracticable to their 
 restless neighbours, the Thessalians. * From the 
 later descriptions of Livy and Pausanias, it is pro- 
 bable, that before their time this swampy plain had 
 extended itself, and become more nearly resem- 
 bling its present state, t 
 
 The hot springs form one of the most interest- 
 
 * Herodot. lib. vii. 176. 
 
 f Livy (lib. xxxvi. c. 18.), describing the attack of the Roman 
 army upon that of Antiochus in the Pass of Thermopylae, 
 speaks of the " loea usque ad mare invia palustri limo et vora- 
 ginibus." — Appian, in his narrative of the same Syrian war, 
 describes Thermopylae as a long and narrow passage : t« ^ 
 
 also Fausanias, lib. vii. c. 15. 
 
 K 1-
 
 136 PASS OF THERMOPYLAE. 
 
 ing points in the topography of the place ; the 
 same in situation, the same probably in their phe- 
 nomena, as they were at the remote period of time 
 when Leonidas fought in the Pass of Thermopylae. 
 These springs issue from four or five different 
 places at the base of the cliffs; and from their 
 locality, as well as from the general outline of the 
 pass, it becomes easy to trace other positions which 
 are important in the history of the spot. The 
 small plain of Anthela, in front of the springs, and 
 intervening between two contractions of the pass, 
 is still distinctly marked; and equally so, the 
 eminence already mentioned adjoining to Anthela, 
 on which, in a temple dedicated to Ceres, the 
 meetings of the Amphictyonic council were held, 
 long before their establishment at Delphi. At a 
 short distance from this spot we noticed the broken 
 fragments of a wall traversing the marsh near the 
 foot of the cliffs — an interesting object, inasmuch 
 as these remains indicate the site of the wall ori- 
 ginally built by the Phocians, to oppose the in- 
 cursions of the Thessalians ; afterwards repaired 
 by the Greeks at the time of the Persian inva- 
 sion * ; at a later period renewed and strengthened 
 by Antiochus, when defending himself in the Pass 
 against the Romans t ; and, lastly, restored by 
 Justinian, when that monarch sought to secure the 
 tottering empire by fortresses and walls, t 
 
 * Hcrodot. lib. vii. c. 176. f Liv. lib. xxxvi. c. 16. 
 
 X Procopius (Dc iEdif. lib. iv. c. 2.) describes the works 
 which Justinian erected at Thermopylae, and makes them the 
 subject of much eulogium.
 
 PASS OF THERMOPYLAE. 137 
 
 This point is the most important in the topography 
 and history of Thermopylae. It may be considered 
 as forming the northern entrance to the strait, and 
 at the same time it is that part where the passage 
 is most contracted by the projection of the rocks 
 towards the sea. It would be difficult to compare 
 together ancient and modern dimensions, where on 
 one side the pass gradually declines into an im- 
 pervious morass ; but it must be confessed, that 
 there is now no place where it will only admit a 
 single chariot to pass at a time, unless we suppose 
 that Herodotus meant to allude merely to the nar- 
 rowness of the road or track, which even yet is in 
 many places extremely limited by the rocky nature 
 of the ground underneath the cliffs. Livy, speak- 
 ing of this as a military passage, states its breadth 
 at sixty paces. I visited Thermopylae during the 
 wet season, and after a continuance of heavy rains 
 for several days, and therefore my observation does 
 not apply to the general character of the spot ; 
 but I can venture to assert, that when I was there, 
 the distance between the rocks and the more im- 
 passable part of the morass, did not in some places 
 much exceed three hundred feet. On the whole, 
 though changes have certainly taken place at this 
 spot, yet they are probably less than might have 
 been expected from the nature of the situation, 
 and the length of time that belongs to the history 
 of the pass of Thermopylae. 
 
 The Trachinian cliffs, which overhang the Pass,
 
 138 PASS Of THERMOPYLAE. 
 
 may be from four to six hundred feet in height at 
 this point, but they decline in elevation towards the 
 south. The rock is entirely an ash-coloured lime- 
 stone, and presents externally a rude and broken 
 surface of rocky masses, with the wild olive, the 
 prickly oak, and other shrubs growing in the inter- 
 vals betwixt them. At some distance to the north- 
 west of the hot springs, and near the entrance of 
 the pass, there is a break in the cliffs, forming the 
 steep and rugged valley of a stream which descends 
 from the mountains. From the description of He- 
 rodotus, there seems reason to believe that this 
 stream is the Asopus, and the opening in the 
 mountains that called Anopaea. The ruins of an 
 ancient Greek fortress are seen upon a summit of 
 rock overhanging this place, probably one of those 
 castles mentioned by Livy in his description of the 
 Pass. 
 
 In this part of Thermopylae, (for the whole 
 length of the Pass may be considered to exceed 
 five miles,) those events occurred which have given 
 a lasting celebrity to the spot. At the time when 
 Xerxes advanced with his army to the northern 
 entrance of the strait, the Greeks were stationed 
 within the wall, and between this barrier and An- 
 thela ; the Spartans alone, under Leonidas, placing 
 themselves in front of the wall. It was here that 
 the Persian horsemen, sent forward by Xerxes, saw 
 these men occupied in combing their hair or in the 
 gymnastic exercises of their country ; and it was
 
 PASS OF THERMOPYLAE. 139 
 
 in this singular position that the two armies re- 
 mained for four days in expectation of the event. 
 The combat which commenced on the fifth, and 
 continued during this and the following day, took 
 place on the same spot of ground ; the Greeks ad- 
 vancing beyond their wall to meet the Persians in the 
 most contracted part of the Pass. It is needless to 
 speak minutely of the events which are so amply 
 recorded by Herodotus and Plutarch, and so well 
 known to all who feel interest in the record of 
 former times. The Greeks perceiving themselves 
 circumvented by the path over the mountains, 
 which Ephialtes discovered to the Persian king, re- 
 tired from the Pass, leaving only Leonidas with 
 his Spartans and the Thespians, to sacrifice them- 
 selves for their country. The scene of combat was 
 still the same, except that now, with the certainty 
 of death, Leonidas carried his companions forward 
 beyond the wall and the contracted part of the Pass, 
 and, as Diodorus relates, even into the very midst 
 of the Persian camp. * Here the Spartan king 
 fell ; his body was the object of glorious but de- 
 structive contention to the Greeks surviving him, 
 who seeing at length the Persians advancing in their 
 rear, retired through the entrenchments of the wall, 
 and posted themselves on the eminence of Anthela 
 already described. The combat now speedily came 
 to a close, but not before every Spartan had perished 
 on the spot. The inscribed memorials which Greece 
 
 * Diodor. Sic. lib. xi
 
 140 PASS OF THERMOPYLAE. 
 
 erected here, to commemorate their devotion to 
 their country, have now disappeared ; but the natural 
 features of Thermopylae remain, and form a still 
 more interesting record of the event. 
 
 This Pass was a second time illustrated by the 
 bravery of the Greeks, and particularly of the 
 Athenians, in defending themselves against the 
 numerous army of Gauls, under Brennus ; when 
 these barbarians were seeking to penetrate into the 
 interior of Greece. * A third time Thermopylae 
 was the scene of battle, between the Romans and 
 the army of Antiochus ; the latter stationed in the 
 place of the Greeks within the Pass, and behind 
 the Phocian wall ; the Romans under their consul 
 Acilius, attacking them from the position once oc- 
 cupied by Xerxes and his Persians, t It is worthy 
 of notice that, in each of these instances, the event 
 was brought about by the same means as in the 
 Persian invasion. The discovery to Brennus of a 
 path through the mountains, obliged the Greeks 
 to retreat, to prevent their being surrounded ; and 
 Antiochus was compelled to fly with precipitation 
 and loss, on seeing the heights above the Pass oc- 
 cupied by Roman soldiers, who under the command 
 
 * See the account of this invasion in Pausanias, Jib. x. c. 49. 
 et seq. — Previously to this time, the Athenians, sending a body 
 of troops to Thermopylae, had prevented Philip of Macedon from 
 penetrating through the Pass, when about to take part against 
 the Phocians in the sacred war. 
 
 f Liv. xxxvi. 15. et. seq. — Considering the nature of the 
 ground, it is singular that elephants should have been employed 
 in this contest between the Romans and Antiochus.
 
 HOT SPRINGS OF THERMOPYLAE. 141 
 
 of M. Porcius Cato, had been secretly sent round to 
 seize these positions. In the reign of Justinian, the 
 army of the Huns advanced to Thermopylae, and 
 discovered the path over the mountains. When the 
 Sultan Bajazet entered Greece, towards the close 
 of the 14th century, there appears to have been little 
 need of these artifices to force a way through Ther- 
 mopylae; a Greek bishop, it is said, conducting 
 the Mohammedan conquerors through the Pass, to 
 enslave the liberties of his country. 
 
 The mountain-route, by which the defences of 
 Thermopylae have thus been rendered vain, can- 
 not, I believe, be considered as a single path ; but 
 probably includes two or three tracks over the rocks 
 above the Pass, which are described by ancient 
 writers. There perhaps may be some doubt as to 
 the actual one by which Ephialtes conducted the 
 Persians ; but the general outline of the route, and 
 its importance to the issue of the contest, are ob- 
 vious on the first inspection of the spot. * 
 
 I examined with some attention the hot springs 
 of Thermopylae. The water breaks out in dif- 
 
 * Pausanias, it may be observed, describes two mountain- 
 paths, one passing above Trachis, and extremely rugged ; the 
 other through the district of the (Enianes, and more practicable. 
 It was by the latter, he says, that the Persians circumvented 
 the Greeks. From this account, which perhaps, however, is 
 not consonant with that of Herodotus, it seems possible that 
 the opening in the mountains, along the edge of which we as- 
 cended to Leuterochori, may have been the valley of the 
 Asopus, and the route which Ephialtes betrayed to the Persians. 
 Procopius (De .Edif. lib. iv. c. '2.) speaks of several mountain- 
 paths, by which the Pass might be circumvented.
 
 142 HOT SPRINGS OF THERMOPYLAE. 
 
 ferent places at the foot of the rocks ; but two 
 spots are more remarkable than the rest, from its 
 appearing in greater quantity, and forming small 
 basins at its source. These basins are incrusted 
 round with depositions from the springs ; and simi- 
 lar depositions cover a large extent of surface, over 
 which the water flows towards the marshes. I 
 brought away some specimens of this incrustation, 
 which is composed of carbonate of lime, and does 
 not appear to contain any sensible quantity of any 
 other earthy substance. In approaching the 
 springs, the smell of sulphuretted hydrogen is very 
 perceptible. The water is extremely clear, but 
 hard and distinctly saline to the taste. It comes 
 from various openings in the rock, or in the basins 
 which the springs have formed : at the mouth of 
 these fissures I found the temperature to be pretty 
 uniformly 103° or 104° Fahrenheit. From two of 
 the springs the water is collected together, forming 
 a considerable stream j which after turning the 
 wheel of a mill erected within the Pass, is dispersed 
 over the marshes below. 
 
 Half a mile to the south of the mill, the Pass is 
 again contracted by some rugged eminences to the 
 left of the road, intervening between the cliffs and 
 the sea ; which eminences, as well as the cliffs, are 
 covered with shrubs and brushwood, giving a wild, 
 yet picturesque character to the scenery. On the 
 highest of them stands a Derveni, or guard-house, 
 in which there are a few Albanian soldiers, stationed 
 here for the security of the Pass. Beyond this spot,
 
 ROUTE TO LEUTEROCHORI. 143 
 
 there is a tumulus, which has been supposed by 
 some to be the spot where the Greeks who fell at 
 Thermopylae were buried by their * countrymen. 
 The Pass still continues towards the south, in some 
 places extremely contracted by the approach of 
 the sea ; till beyond the village of Mola, and the 
 site of the ancient Alpenus, it expands out into the 
 beautiful and fertile shores, which line the Eubcean 
 strait. 
 
 We were singularly unfortunate in the day, when 
 we surveyed Thermopylae. From the time we 
 crossed the Hellada, the rain fell in torrents upon 
 us ; and the horizon was so thick, that w r e were un- 
 able to see the opposite coast of Eubcea, or even 
 the summits of the cliffs immediately above us. 
 This state of the weather prevented an examination 
 of the Pass, as minute as I could have desired to 
 make. In any other spot, it might have repressed 
 alLfeeling connected with the memory of former 
 events ; but it was impossible that this should hap- 
 pen in the Pass of Thermopylae. 
 
 Quitting this remarkable place, we pursued our 
 route towards Leuterochori, where we designed to 
 pass the night ; a village situate among the heights 
 of (Eta, and in the line of the only practicable route 
 across this mountain-chain. From Thermopylae 
 we retraced for some way our former steps ; but 
 instead of repassing the Hellada, skirted for a mile 
 
 * The physician Sakallarius of Ioannina gave me a copy of a 
 short but spirited Romaic Ode, on the combat at Thermopylae, 
 which he had composed after visiting this spot.
 
 144 ROUTE TO LEUTEROCHORI. 
 
 or two along the foot of the high cliffs, which are 
 extended westward from the Pass, to form the 
 southern boundary of the valley ; and then began 
 our ascent of the chain of (Eta, by a route equally 
 singular and interesting, but difficult and not free 
 from danger. At first we followed a path winding 
 upwards along a deep and thickly wooded recess 
 in the mountains, through which a stream flowed 
 towards the sea. * Turning then to the right, and 
 rapidly ascending for nearly an hour, we came to 
 the very edge of the cliffs which overhang the val- 
 ley ; lofty, precipitous, and rugged, yet clothed 
 with a rich profusion of wood. The view from this 
 point of the plains of the Sperchius, of the bay, and 
 of the chain of Othrys, was very magnificent ; and 
 interesting to us, as the last we obtained of the region 
 of Thessaly. We now turned southwards, into the 
 interior of the mountains : our ascent was rapidly 
 continued, and before long we saw only the clouds 
 of a stormy evening rolling around and beneath us, 
 disclosing at intervals the outline of loftier summits, 
 entirely covered with snow. There was something 
 of dreary wildness in our approach to Leutero- 
 chori, which may not easily be forgotten. Night 
 was coming on, and we were enveloped by thick 
 fogs, which now concealed all the great mountain 
 outlines that surrounded us. From the elevated 
 situation of the place, the cold was very severe ; 
 and rendered more so by the snow and sleet falling 
 
 * This stream if it be not indeed the Asopus, is either the 
 Dyras, or the Melas, mentioned by Herodotus.
 
 LEUTEROCHORI. 145 
 
 upon us. We found the village to consist of 80 or 
 100 miserable cottages, scattered here and there 
 over the rugged surface of one of the heights, and 
 constructed rudely of mud and stones. As we en- 
 tered the placje, we saw forty or fifty people assembled 
 by the light of a few tapers in a wretched hovel, which 
 we found to be the church ; engaged in some of the 
 religious ceremonies of the Christmas season. The 
 habitation which our Tartar selected as one of the 
 best in the village, was scarcely accessible on horse- 
 back, from the precipitous ledges of rock, under 
 which, as a shelter, it had been erected. It con- 
 sisted of a single apartment, with naked mud-walls, 
 and a flooring of the naked earth ; one end of the 
 room occupied by horses, the other inhabited by 
 two large families; with no other furniture than a 
 few wooden and earthen vessels, and the straw- 
 mats and woollen coats, which they used for their 
 nightly covering. 
 
 A large fire was lighted in the middle of the 
 apartment ; and all these poor people crowded 
 around it, with an eagerness which seemed to show 
 that even this was a luxury they did not always obtain. 
 There was an aspect of meagre wretchedness and of 
 absolute privation about them, which I have seldom 
 seen equalled. Our arrival, and the ferocious 
 manner in which our Turkish attendants broke into 
 the house, produced at first much alarm. The eldest 
 daughter of one of the families, who in another 
 sphere of life might have been a beauty, was hurried 
 away into a neighbouring hovel. In the faces and 
 
 VOL. IT. I
 
 146 LEUTEROCHORI. 
 
 manner of those who remained, there was silently 
 expressed an habitual expectation of ill-usage, which 
 it was. painful to the mind to contemplate. Some 
 little presents we made to the children, reconciled 
 these poor people to us ; and they shewed them- 
 selves grateful, when we saved the master of the 
 family from the savage treatment of one of the 
 sourudzes. When the Turks left the house at 
 night, to sleep in an adjoining habitation, they 
 became more easy ; and to alarm succeeded a sort of 
 familiar curiosity, much akin to that which belongs 
 to savage life. The young woman who had been 
 concealed at our first entrance, now appeared again, 
 and formed one in the groupe of gazers who sur- 
 rounded us. We all slept together round the 
 embers of the fire ; an assembly of fifteen people, 
 not to speak of six or eight horses, which had their 
 quarters at the other end of the apartment. Our 
 bedding excited much surprise and admiration ; 
 and we could not persuade any of the family to re- 
 tire to rest on their mats and capotes, before they 
 had witnessed every part of the preparation for our 
 own repose. 
 
 The lofty mountain-level on which Leuterochori 
 stands, was probably that formerly inhabited by the 
 CEnianes * ; and it was on some one of the heights 
 in this vicinity, that Hercules is said to have kindled 
 the fire which became his own funeral pile. The 
 consul Acilius, after having defeated Antiochus at 
 
 * Strab. lib. ix. 428. Pausan. lib. x.
 
 CHAIN OF (ETA. 147 
 
 Thermopylae, marched his army across the chain 
 of CEta, to attack the /Etolians ; and in his way, 
 halted at this spot, to offer sacrifice to the manes of 
 the Grecian hero. * The village of Leuterochori is 
 the private property of Ali Pasha. His power in 
 this district seems to have been originally acquired 
 in his office of Derveni Pasha, and now extends over 
 all the country between the gulfs of Zeitun and 
 Corinth. 
 
 Our route from Leuterochori towards Salona and 
 the gulf of Corinth, was highly interesting in the 
 nature of the scenery through which it conducted 
 us. From this village we still continued our ascent 
 of the chain of CEta, and attained a very great 
 height above the level of the sea. The mountains 
 composing this part of the chain are of the finest 
 form ; not long-continued ridges, but insulated 
 masses and summits, with profound intervening 
 hollows, and lofty mural precipices; the higher 
 elevations now covered with snow, but shewing to 
 the eye extensive pine forests spread over their ac- 
 clivities ; and on a lower level, and in the depth of 
 the vallies, thick woods of oak, plane, and other 
 forest-trees. A very striking feature occurs a few 
 miles to the south of Leuterochori, in a profound 
 ravine, not on the ordinary scale in which we see 
 this kind of scenery in England and Scotland, but 
 formed by the opposition of cliffs, which cannot be 
 less than a thousand feet in height ; and having a 
 
 * Liv. lib. xxxvi. cap. SO. 
 L 2
 
 148 CHAIN OP (ETA. 
 
 massive boldness of form and combination, which 
 gives the highest effect of grandeur to the eye. 
 Beyond this again is another feature of singu- 
 lar magnificence. From the narrow road across 
 one of the ridges of the chain, you look down upon 
 a vast basin or hollow among the mountains ; from 
 the midst of which rises precipitously a majestic 
 mass of rock, connected by a ridge with the hills 
 behind ; but appearing in itself as an insulated ob- 
 ject, and deriving somewhat of animated existence 
 from the boldness with which it projects itself for- 
 ward to meet the eye. The height of this cliff is 
 very great, and it presents a single surface of rock 
 from the summit to the base. 
 
 Every part of the chain of CEta which I saw, be- 
 longs to the great calcareous formation of Greece. 
 The stratification of the limestone, as exhibited in its 
 ravines and precipices, is in many places very re- 
 gular and distinct. In the channels of the streams, 
 descending from the higher points of the chains, I 
 observed no primitive fragments ; and I conclude, 
 therefore, that the whole of this mountain groupe 
 is similarly composed. 
 
 Our descent on the southern side of the mountains 
 was as rapid as the ascent on the opposite side, and 
 equally remarkable in the magnificence of the land- 
 scape that was spread before the eye. Below us lay 
 the broad and fertile valley of the ancient Cephissus, 
 through which this river flows in a tranquil course 
 towards the plains of Boeotia. Beyond this valley, 
 and forming its southern boundary, a lofty range of
 
 VIEW OF PARNASSUS. 149 
 
 mountains extended in a line from north-west to 
 south-east, rising at the latter extremity into one 
 great mountain ; the summit of which attained a 
 height far above any others in the landscape. The 
 situation, the magnitude, and form of this, pointed 
 it out at once as the Uagvaa-cros d»xogu/x£os, the ancient 
 and venerable Parnassus, which we now gazed upon 
 for the first time. A tier of clouds hung round the 
 lower parts of the mountain, which, above this line, 
 was seen in the form of pinnacles and vast pre- 
 cipices, appearing among the light clouds which 
 floated over its surface. There was the same aerial 
 effect in this view of it, which had formerly so 
 strongly impressed me, in looking upwards to 
 Olympus from the village of Leuterochori. 
 
 The vale of the Cephissus is here three or four 
 miles in width ; a great part of its extent finely 
 wooded with oaks and plane-trees. Higher up the 
 valley, towards the sources of the river, was the 
 region of the Tetrapolis of Doris ; which, Strabo 
 says, was regarded by some as the country whence 
 the Dorian tribes originally sprung. There are, I 
 believe, the vestiges of several ancient towns in 
 this district ; some of which may doubtless be 
 regarded as appertaining to the four cities of Doris, 
 but I am unacquainted with their exact situation. * 
 
 We crossed the valley to the Khan of Gravia on 
 its southern side, where we made a meal among 
 ten or twelve shepherds, dressed in coarse white 
 
 * The four cities of Doris were Erineos, Boeum, Pindos or 
 Acyphas, and Cytinium. 
 
 L 3
 
 150 PASS AT GRAVIA. 
 
 woollen garments, and carrying each the primitive 
 shepherd's crook. This Khan is at the entrance of 
 a steep and narrow defile, traversing the lofty chain 
 of mountains which runs towards the south-east, to 
 terminate in Parnassus. This is in fact the range 
 connecting Parnassus more immediately with the 
 chains of Pindus, (Eta, and the mountains of 
 Locris andvEtolia ; all which elevated ridges maybe 
 regarded as belonging to one great groupe, of which 
 Pindus may perhaps be considered the central 
 chain in direction and extent. The entrance to 
 the pass at Gravia is formed by a very high conical 
 mountain ; the cliffs at the lower part of which are 
 opposed to each other, leaving a ravine so narrow 
 as in some places barely to admit the passage of a 
 stream, and of a road rapidly ascending below the 
 rocks ; if that indeed may be called a road, which is 
 simply a rocky staircase, rude and difficult of ascent. 
 The cliffs are high, and for the most part perpendi- 
 cular. The limestone of which they are composed, 
 is hollowed out into numerous caves ; some of 
 which, where accessible, have been converted into 
 the haitations of mountain-shepherds. 
 
 Ascending the pass, we found it gradually en- 
 larging; the cliffs thrown further back from us, 
 but still abrupt and precipitous, and richly clothed 
 with pines and cedars, forming a fine description of 
 scenery, and on a magnificent scale. Two hours 
 of most laborious climbing were required to con- 
 duct us to the summit of the chain ; which, like 
 many of those traversing Greece, is so mere a ridge
 
 DESCENT TOWARDS SALONA. 151 
 
 at this spot, that not a yard of* plane surface inter- 
 venes between the ascent and descent. At some 
 distance below the summit, on the southern side, 
 we came to a point, where an opening in the moun- 
 tains disclosed to us a noble view of the distant gulf 
 of Corinth, and the high mountains of the Pelopon- 
 nesus beyond; now, like those in the north of 
 Greece, covered to a great depth with snow. 
 
 Descending yet further, the scenery around us lost 
 nothing of its grandeur. The road carried us along 
 the edge of precipices and profound ravines ; and 
 the landscape was unceasingly varied by openings, 
 either into the recesses of the mountains, or in a 
 southerly direction towards the gulf. One point 
 was more than commonly singular in its character ; 
 where, in a junction of the vallies, or rather ra- 
 vines, of three mountain-streams, the promontories, 
 forming the angles at this junction, exhibit preci- 
 pitous fronts of naked rock, certainly not much less 
 than a thousand feet in height, and rendered more 
 extraordinary by the beautiful stratification of the 
 limestone composing them. The strata are very 
 uniform in their thickness, which does not in general 
 exceed a few yards ; and are distinctly exposed from 
 the base to the summit of these great promontories, 
 so as to afford the means of a rude calculation as to 
 their total height. The stratification is not much 
 inclined, but is very singularly broken at right 
 angles to its direction, so as to give in various points 
 of the profile view of the cliffs, a fine example of 
 what might be called a trap formation, in the ori- 
 
 l 4
 
 152 SALONA. 
 
 ginal meaning of the word. I have in general, in 
 Greece, observed this broken stratification of lime- 
 stone to be most remarkable, where the rock is much 
 impregnated with iron. At the spot I am now de- 
 scribing, the surface of the rock exhibits a strong 
 red tinge, wherever it is broken, or worn into 
 fissures and caverns. 
 
 The descent here becomes so precipitous, that for 
 a mile the road is actually a series of stairs ; the 
 steps low, and well constructed with large paving- 
 stones, and a wall on the right hand to protect the 
 traveller from the precipices, along the edge of 
 which he is passing. This place is called the Kaka- 
 skala, a name very appropriate to the character of 
 the place. The adroitness which the horses of 
 Greece have acquired, in traversing roads of this 
 kind, would have more astonished me, had I not 
 formerly observed in Iceland a still greater degree 
 of adaptation in this animal to the circumstances of 
 the country. 
 
 Arrived at length in the level country, at the 
 foot of this chain of mountains, we continued an 
 easy route to Salona, the ancient Amphissa.* The 
 situation of this city is very fine, in a semicircular 
 valley or basin beneath the mountains ; which val- 
 ley stretches down with a gradual descent, and 
 luxuriant surface, to the shores of the gulf of 
 Salona, a branch of the Corinthian Gulf. An in- 
 
 * Meletius, as well as some earlier writers, have doubted this 
 fact, and asserted that a place called Lampeni, or Lampina, re- 
 presents the ancient Amphissa.
 
 SALONA. 153 
 
 sulated hill rises out of the valley ; its broken sum- 
 mit covered with the walls and towers of an ancient 
 castle : the buildings of the city are spread over 
 the ascent, or collected around its base; and are 
 much intermixed with the foliage of cypresses and 
 orange-trees, which grow in gardens or around the 
 mosques. 
 
 Salona contains more than 800 houses, of which 
 it is estimated that 500 are inhabited by Greeks. 
 There are seven Greek churches in the city, and an 
 equal number of mosques. The vallies in the 
 neighbourhood produce grain, oil, cotton and wine ; 
 the two former articles in sufficient quantity for a 
 large exportation from the gulf; whence also is 
 carried a part of the produce of wool, from the 
 flocks on the adjoining mountains. * Salona, with 
 nearly the whole of the northern coast of the gulf 
 of Corinth, is subject to the power of Ali Pasha. 
 The commandant of the city at this time was Seid 
 Achmet ; a person who, a few years before, had 
 been sent by Ali on a mission to England, which 
 he appears to have fulfilled with some ability. Be- 
 fore my return into Albania, he had been with- 
 drawn from the command at Salona, and I saw him 
 frequently at Ioannina. He had acquired and re- 
 
 * The export of wheat from the gulf of Salona, in 1805, 
 was estimated at about 20,000 kilos, each kilo of 55lbs. : that of 
 barley at 80,000 kilos. Of oil, 5000 barrels were exported the 
 same year : of wool about 140,000 okes : of cotton 72,000 okes, 
 besides a small quantity of valonia, honey, wax, &c. The total 
 value of annual exports, in the estimate I saw, was nearly 
 800,000 piastres.
 
 154 SALONA. 
 
 tained some slight knowledge of English ; and his 
 highest gratification was that of talking about his 
 visit to England ; his interview with the King, for 
 whom he entertained a great veneration ; and his 
 intercourse with various people, whose names he 
 preserved with a correctness which surprised me. * 
 The lofty pine-covered mountains, seen to the 
 west of Salona, were anciently included in the ter- 
 ritory of the western Locris ; and the steep and 
 rugged Corax, mentioned by Livy and Appian in 
 their narratives of the Roman war with Antiochus 
 and the iEtolians, is probably one of this t groupe. 
 The mountains to the east of the valley are still 
 further consecrated to history, as those of the re- 
 gion of Phocis. Salona, in fact, may be considered 
 the entrance on this side into the more classical 
 districts of ancient Greece ; and the traveller 
 here begins to tread with a more sure foot upon 
 the monuments and vestiges of this extraordinary 
 people. 
 
 * Since this was written, Seid Achmet has again visited Eng- 
 land, on a mission from Ali Pasha to our government. 
 
 •f Liv. lib. xxxvi. c. 30. Appian (De Bell. Syr.) calls it
 
 \50 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 JOURNEY THROUGH THE ANCIENT PHOCIS, BOSOTIA, AND 
 
 ATTICA TO ATHENS. DELPHI. — TRIODON. CHERO- 
 
 NJEA. LIVADIA. — HELICON. — MARSH OF COPAIS. 
 
 THEBES. RUINS OF THESPIA. FIELDS OFLEUCTRA, 
 
 AND PLATEA. CHAIN OF CITHjERON. — VIA SACRA. 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 I he limitation as to the plan of tliis work, men- 
 tioned in the Preface, will lead me to pass hastily 
 over the more classical parts of Greece, to which I 
 have now conducted the reader. I need not, I be- 
 lieve, add more to the reasons I have there given. 
 It would be an injustice to the subject to describe, 
 what I saw only in a very cursory manner, and dur- 
 ing the depth of a winter of unexampled severity j 
 and such description is further rendered superfluous 
 by the many accounts we already have of this 
 country, more perfect and valuable than I should 
 be able to give. I continue then my narrative 
 here, merely to connect, by a brief outline, the se- 
 cond journey I made in Albania, with my first visit 
 to this and other districts in the north of Greece. 
 Urged forwards by the cold and stormy weather
 
 156 DELPHI. 
 
 which had now come upon us, we travelled from 
 Salona to Athens in eight days ; a period of time, 
 which under other circumstances would have been 
 much too short, for a country abounding in natural 
 beauty, and in the vestiges of ancient history and 
 art. The first object of interest in our route, was 
 the venerable Delphi ; which though its glories of 
 inspiration are now gone, and its temples levelled 
 with the ground, still preserves something of sanc- 
 tity in the solitary magnificence of its situation, and 
 in the silence now resting upon places, where all 
 Greece once assembled to the solemnities of the 
 Amphictyonic council, and to the contests of the 
 Pythian games. The modern village of Kastri 
 stands'upon the sacred ground, wretched in all but 
 the scenery that surrounds it. Where the splen- 
 dour of art has disappeared, that of nature has re- 
 mained ; and standing on the site of Delphi, one 
 cannot but admire that taste and spirit of ancient 
 Greece, which chose for its place of national assem- 
 bly a spot possessing so many, great and imposing 
 features. The lofty and abrupt cliffs rising behind 
 to form the two Delphic summits ; the chasm and 
 Castalian fountain between these cliffs ; the pro- 
 found valley of the Plistus beneath, bounded on the 
 opposite side by the mountain-ridge of Cirphis ; — 
 all these objects are still in the landscape before 
 the eye. About the Pythian cave more doubt may 
 be entertained, Various caverns in the limestone 
 rock maybe seen at the base of the Castalian cliffs- ; 
 but none which with any probability will admit of
 
 DELPHI. 157 
 
 this name. * The vestiges of art, with the excep- 
 tion of the stadium, the tombs, and niches cut in 
 the rock, are equally obscure ; and even the site of 
 the temple of Apollo is by no means distinctly as- 
 certained, though some have fancied its peribolos 
 in an ancient wall of massive stones, which now 
 supports the Greek church of St. Elias ; while the 
 site of the temple of Minerva has been assigned to 
 another similar wall at the church of Pan-Agia, 
 on the opposite side the Castalian stream. The 
 traces of antiquity, however, are every-where visible 
 at Kastri, in the fragments of marble and Greek in- 
 scriptions scattered through the village ; and not- 
 withstanding all that Nero obtained from Delphi, 
 it may be presumed that future excavation here 
 will still produce much that is valuable of ancient 
 sculpture. We saw lying on the ground, within the 
 
 ♦ f am disposed to think that this celebrated cave has not 
 usually been sought for in the right place. Justin, describing 
 the situation and features of Delphi, says, " In hoc rupis an- 
 fractu, media ferme montis altitudine, planities exigua est, atque 
 in ea profundum terrae foramen quod in oracula patet; ex quo 
 frigidus spiritus, vi quadam, velut vento, in sublime expulsus, 
 mentes vatum in vecordiam vertit," &c. lib. xxiv. c. 6. This de- 
 scription would lead to the inference, that the Pythian cave was 
 in the chasm at some height above the Castalian fountain ; and 
 though this situation would expose it to being filled up by frag- 
 ments, or to other changes, yet I should not be surprised, consi- 
 dering the permanence which often belongs to such local phe- 
 nomena, were an accurate search still to discover the issue of 
 carbonic acid-gus from some place among the rocks. There is 
 much reason to suppose that it was this gas which produced 
 some, at least, of the extraordinary effects connected with the 
 functions of the Pvthian oracle.
 
 158 CASTALIAN FOUNTAIN. 
 
 village, the fine remains of a colossal statue, which 
 but two days before had been discovered in digging 
 the foundations of a cottage. 
 
 We ascended to the summit of one of the Cas- 
 talian cliffs which overhang the site of Delphi; 
 a woodless steep, though Gray has otherwise pic- 
 tured it, and at this time covered with snow. The 
 highest points of these cliffs (which may be consi- 
 dered to form on this side the base of Parnassus) 
 are from six to eight hundred feet above the level 
 of Delphi, — nearly two thousand perhaps above 
 that of the sea. We drank of the Castalian fount ; 
 but inspiration would have been impossible, with 
 the necessity of guarding against the pollution of 
 dirty clothes, which some ragged females of the vil- 
 lage were washing in the sacred stream. Two Greek 
 priests attended us in our survey of Delphi, — men 
 whom in wretchedness I could only compare with 
 the priests of Iceland, but who wanted the know- 
 ledge which is often so remarkable in the latter. 
 
 From Delphi we proceeded, amidst heavy storms 
 of snow, up the valley of the Plistus to Arakova; a 
 town standing on the heights of one of the moun- 
 tain-chains which are sent down from Parnassus. 
 We passed the night here with the thermometer 
 below the freezing point, and every thing around 
 us deeply covered with snow. The next day's 
 journey was to Davlia, the ancient Daulis, — our 
 route a winding one among the hills at the base of 
 Parnassus, which are still entirely calcareous ; co- 
 vered in some places by a shale strongly impregnated 
 
 12
 
 DAVLIA. 159 
 
 with iron, and in others by a coarse calcareous 
 conglomerate. Four miles from Arakova, we 
 came to the celebrated spot of the t^T? x«a«u0o», 
 taken by Sophocles as the scene of the murder of 
 Laius by CEpidus. This place could not have 
 been better characterized to the eye of the poet, 
 than it is to that of the modern traveller. The 
 three roads coming from Delphi, Daulis, and Li- 
 vadia, meet in a craggy and unequal spot ; and that 
 towards Delphi in particular is much contracted 
 by a cliff which overhangs it. A large stone, 
 rudely worked into form, has been set up at a short 
 distance from the point of junction, and here a 
 Greek, who was in our train, told us that one of 
 their kings had been buried. These imperfect 
 scraps of historical knowledge are common among 
 the Greeks, and the stone in question may have 
 been placed here in some later time, to comme- 
 morate the supposed event. 
 
 Davlia is in a picturesque country, at the east- 
 ern foot of Parnassus. Though having now more 
 than half circled round this great mountain, we 
 had only once seen its summits j and it was but a 
 fruitless labour we undertook in ascending from 
 Davlia to the monastery of Panagia, one of the 
 highest habitations on its eastern acclivity. We 
 found the snows so deep, and the fogs so thick, 
 that it was impossible to advance further than this 
 point, whicli is said to be five hours' journey from 
 the summit. The Corycian caw therefore, and 
 the wonders of tlic upper pari of Parnassus, fthe
 
 160 
 
 CHERON^A. 
 
 Liakoura, as it is now called, from the ancient 
 Lycorea,) were entirely concealed from our ob- 
 servation. * 
 
 At Davlia there are ruins attesting the site of 
 the ancient city, t Here the plains of Boeotia 
 open out before the traveller, who looking down 
 the broad and fertile valley of the Cephissus, sees 
 in the distance the marshy level of the Lake 
 Copais, and still more remotely the mountains 
 bounding the strait of the Euripus. We pursued 
 our journey eastwards along this valley to Chero- 
 naea; a spot signalized by the great victory which 
 gave Greece into the hands of Philip *, as the scene 
 of the first military exploits of Alexander ; and as 
 the birth-place of Plutarch. The ruins of this city 
 are extensive. Massive walls of the ancient Greek 
 structure cover and circle round the summit of a 
 rocky hill, on the southern side of the plain ; a 
 small amphitheatre is seen, the steps of which are 
 cut in the rock near the base of this hill ; and on 
 the level below there are numerous vestiges of 
 
 * I am not aware that the height of Parnassus has been as- 
 certained, but it is unquestionably one of the loftiest mountains 
 in Greece. Lucian vaguely speaks of it as being higher than 
 Caucasus, and Olympus higher than both. The rock of Par- 
 nassus appears to be chiefly marble. 
 
 f I do not know that there are any vestiges of the temple of 
 Minerva, mentioned by Pausanias. The description of Livy 
 (lib. xxxii. c. 18.) would render it somewhat doubtful whether 
 Daulis was exactly on the same site as the modern town, per- 
 haps rather on one of the abrupt and lofty eminences a little to 
 the south.
 
 LIVADIA. 161 
 
 buildings and fragments of marble, with several 
 Greek inscriptions. * Nothing is here to be seen 
 of the celebrated Theban lion of Cheronaea ; but it 
 is possibly buried under ground, and may yet re- 
 ward the search of some future traveller. 
 
 The plains adjoining Cheronaea have been the 
 scene of other battles. It was here that Onomar- 
 chus, the commander of the Phocians in the sacred 
 war, was defeated by the Thebans : in this vicinity 
 also, Sylla gained a victory over Archelaus, com- 
 manding the troops of his master Mithridates. 
 
 Only a few miles intervene between this place 
 and Livadia or Lebadea ; a city once celebrated as 
 the site of the oracle of Trophonius, and still con- 
 sidered as one of the principal towns in modern 
 Greece. Its situation is on the acclivity of a steep 
 hill, surmounted by the remains of a fortress which 
 is said to have been founded by the Catalans. 
 This situation gives an air of magnificence to th? 
 houses of the town, which are reckoned at nearl) 
 2000 ; many of them very large, and inhabited by 
 wealthy and respectable Greeks. The minarets of 
 five mosques rise from among the other buildings, 
 but the Turkish part of the population is notwith- 
 standing very small. 
 
 The commerce of Livadia and the adjoining 
 
 * There is an inscription on the rock at Cheronaea, which I 
 was unahle to decipher. One upon a stone, forming part of the 
 basin of a fountain near the road, relates to a certain Lytobulus, 
 <MAOCO*ON riAATONIKON ; but the inscription is only in small 
 part legible. 
 
 VOL. II. M
 
 \m 
 
 LIVADIA. 
 
 country is extensive, and carried on chiefly by the 
 gulf of Corinth. * The Greek merchants of this 
 city derive great profits from the export of the 
 produce of their lands, and are much reputed both 
 for wealth and activity. We visited the Archon 
 Logotheti, the principal of them ; a man who lives 
 with all the pomp of a grandee, surrounded by 
 dependants, and in a house larger and more luxu- 
 riously furnished than any other I have seen in 
 Greece. He married the sister of Colovo of Ioan- 
 nina, but was at this time a widower ; with a daugh- 
 ter, famed in this part of Greece for her extraor- 
 dinary beauty, and certainly meriting in the perfect 
 harmony of her features every eulogium which 
 fame could bestow. Her dress was superb, par- 
 ticularly in the arrangement and decorations of the 
 hair, and in the ornaments round the waist. This 
 young woman is since, I believe, married to the 
 son of another wealthy Greek in Livadia. The 
 Archon Logotheti himself is a curious specimen of 
 aristocratic pride, struggling with the servility 
 which arises from the political condition of his 
 country. The power of Ali Pasha extends to 
 Livadia in his capacity of Derveni Pasha, but it is 
 
 * The principal exports from this district, which has the 
 general name of Livadia, are wheat, barley, oats, maize, pease, 
 cotton, wool, cheese, honey, &c. Of these wheat is the prin- 
 cipal article, produced largely in the fertile plains of Bceotia. 
 Its export in 1805 was estimated at about 250,000 kilos, and 
 the total value of the exports for this district the same year was 
 reckoned at nearly 130,000/.
 
 CAVE OP TROPHONIUS. 163 
 
 here of a more modified kind than in Albania or 
 Thessaly. 
 
 The most interesting feature at Livadia is a vast 
 chasm in the limestone hills adjoining the town, in 
 the lower part of which ravine were situated the 
 Cave of Trophonius, the Hercynian fountain, and 
 the ever-celebrated fountains of Memory and 
 Lethe. These natural features still remain almost 
 untouched by the hands of time. The Hercynian 
 fountain may be seen gushing from underneath the 
 cliffs in a body of water, sufficient at once to form 
 a large stream. The other two fountains equally 
 continue to pour out their waters from hidden 
 sources within the rocks ; and their situation may 
 be presumed to indicate that of the Cave of the 
 oracle in the adjoining cliffs, in which may still 
 be seen the niches, which were once occupied by 
 images or votive offerings. It is not, however, 
 ascertained with certainty which was the real 
 cave, since there are several natural or artificial 
 caverns in the rock, and all these nearly horizontal 
 in direction ; whereas the description of Pausanias 
 requires also some perpendicular opening, into 
 which those consulting the oracle were obliged to 
 descend. * Nothing now remains of the sacred 
 
 * Pausanias (see his Bceotica) describes something like a 
 balustrade surrounding the opening, and a ladder by which the 
 descent was made into it. It is easy to conceive that in a lime- 
 stone rock like that of Livadia, an earthquake, or some more 
 gradual change, may have filled up such a cavity ; and it may 
 
 M °2
 
 164 LIVADIA. 
 
 wood of the oracle, which was probably in the 
 opening of the valley below the ravine. If it were 
 so, the approach to the cave must have been very 
 imposing. Advancing from the plain, the stranger 
 would pass through the grove, rendered more ob- 
 scure by its situation ; then would enter suddenly 
 the ravine ; and at the foot of its perpendicular 
 cliffs, where the waters of the fountains gush from 
 the rock, would find himself at the cave of Tro- 
 phonius. Of the mysterious and alarming rites by 
 which this oracle was distinguished, it is unneces- 
 sary here to speak. 
 
 While at Livadia, and sitting in the house of the 
 Archon Logotheti, we felt three shocks of an earth- 
 quake, rapidly succeeding each other. They were 
 followed soon afterwards by rain. The great lime- 
 stone formation of Greece and the isles, seems 
 particularly liable to this phenomenon of earth- 
 quakes. The daughter of Logotheti, and other 
 females, who were in the same room with us, ma- 
 nifested little alarm at the occurrence ; though the 
 first shock was strong enough to throw open the 
 doors, and shake violently all the furniture of the 
 room. 
 
 We were fortunate in an accidental meeting at 
 Livadia with M. Gropius, who at this time was on 
 his way from Zante to Athens. We continued 
 
 be remarked that there is one cavern at the foot of the cliffs, 
 near the fountain of Lethe, actually so far filled up with frag- 
 ments as to preclude any entrance. 
 
 12
 
 ROUTE TO THEBES. 165 
 
 our journey together as far as Thebes, the distance 
 of which from Livadia is about twenty -five miles ; 
 a route more than usually interesting, as well in its 
 actual scenery, as in the perpetual recollections it 
 affords of ancient times. The traveller, with 
 Pausanias as his guide, (than whom it would be 
 difficult to find one more accurate,) will every 
 where recognize the site of the old Boeotian cities, 
 and will see numerous vestiges of them as he 
 passes over the great plains of this region ; such as 
 the remains of ancient walls, the fragments of mar- 
 bles, inscriptions, tumuli, &c. Some ruins near a 
 village, on the north side of the plain of the 
 Cephissus, shew the site of Orchomenos ; a city 
 giving a title which we translate as King; some- 
 what unfitly for the correct understanding of his- 
 tory, which in many similar instances is falsely 
 interpreted under the delusion of names. Moun- 
 tainous countries, from obvious causes, are gene- 
 rally portioned out into smaller communities than 
 plains ; and this is particularly true in the ancient 
 condition of Greece ; where almost every valley 
 and mountain acclivity had its respective towns or 
 tribes, distinguished more or less from others by a 
 difference of origin, government, or customs. 
 These names come down to us individually from 
 old times ; and modern history does not always 
 correctly estimate their actual magnitude, or 
 that of the events connected with them. It re- 
 quires the shelter of remote antiquity to sanction 
 with the epithets of wars, kings, and conquests, the 
 
 m 3
 
 166 MOUNT HELICON. 
 
 petty feuds of chieftains living in adjacent vallies 
 of the same district. 
 
 Our route conducted us close to the ruins of 
 Coronea and Onchestus, two others of the Boeo- 
 tian cities. * Every where, indeed, the vestiges of 
 ancient population are scattered over this country, 
 and scarcely a peasant at his plough but can offer 
 a little collection of coins, which he has gathered 
 from the soil he tills. Our journey was rendered 
 agreeable by fine and frosty weather, succeeding 
 to the storms of the preceding days ; and except 
 that a fog, according to old Boeotian usage, hung 
 over the lower part of the plains and the marsh 
 Copais, we had on every side of us a clear and 
 splendid landscape. The great outline of Par- 
 nassus was now seen distinctly in its whole extent, 
 and we had a new and interesting feature in the 
 chain of Mount Helicon, which lying on our right 
 hand, formed the southern boundary of the plain 
 for the greater part of the way between Livadia 
 and Thebes. There is something remarkably pic- 
 turesque and graceful in the form of this ridge», 
 what might fit it to the imagination as an abode of 
 the Muses, when they quitted the loftier heights 
 of Pindus and Parnassus. Helicon has itself in- 
 deed the grandeur of height and steepness ; but it 
 is a grandeur softened to the eye by the figure of 
 
 * In this part of the plain is a large tumulus, partly perhaps 
 natural, but artificially levelled on the summit. May this have 
 bees the site of the temple of Apollo known to have existed in 
 this vicinity ?
 
 LAKE COPAIS. 167 
 
 the cliffs and intervening hollows, by the woods 
 which still cover them as in ancient times *, and 
 by the beautiful slopes which connect the cliffs 
 with the plains at their feet. This character was 
 not lost even at the present time, when the ap- 
 proach of winter had already covered with snow 
 more than half the height of the mountain. 
 
 The Lake Copais, as it is called, is now what it 
 was formerly, an extensive morass, partly cul- 
 tivated, partly covered with shallow pools of water. 
 There can be little doubt that it was once a lake, 
 like the larger plain of Thessaly ; but, unlike the 
 latter, it appears to have been in great measure 
 laid dry by the industry of man in providing chan- 
 nels for the egress of the waters. Many villages 
 may be seen upon its banks, or on knolls of ground 
 which rise from amidst the marsh. The plains 
 between Livadia, Orchomenos, and Copais, are 
 esteemed the finest in Bceotia, and produce a large 
 quantity of grain, rice, and cotton. The Cephis- 
 sus winds through them ; a tranquil stream, the 
 borders of which still produce the reeds, com- 
 mended by Plutarch for the excellence of the lutes 
 they afford, t Altogether the landscape here cor- 
 responds well with the ancient description of 
 Boeotia, and the epithets given to it by poets and 
 other writers. 
 
 * " Aut in urabrosis Heliconis oris." Hor. lib. i. od. 12. 
 f In Vit. Syllae. — Plutarch also speaks of the richness of the 
 plain about Orchomenos.
 
 168 THEBES. 
 
 Sixteen or eighteen miles from Livadia, we tra- 
 versed a ridge of hills, which separates the plains of 
 the Cephissus and Copais from that of Thebes. 
 This rocky pass is reputed as the one where the 
 Sphinx proposed his perilous questions to the travel- 
 ler; and there is much reason to believe that it was 
 the spot meant by Sophocles as the scene of this 
 story. The view from the summit level of this 
 pass is extensive and magnificent, and very in- 
 teresting in a geographical point of view. 
 
 We proceeded along the great plain of Thebes 
 to the city, which is seen at the distance of many 
 miles, covering the sides and summit of a low hill; 
 a spot venerable from an historical antiquity of 
 more than 3000 years. The name may be con- 
 sidered as still preserved, — the modern pro- 
 nunciation of Theva being merely a change arising 
 out of the Romaic sound of the letter B. The 
 effect upon the imagination of the traveller from 
 the many great names and events which history 
 connects with this spot, and from the living reality 
 of the scenery around it, is scarcely even removed 
 by the wretched aspect of the modern town ; an 
 assemblage of five or six hundred ill-built houses, 
 irregularly disposed, two Turkish mosques, and 
 several small Greek churches ; the latter exhibiting 
 a strange motley appearance in the rude mixture 
 of modern building, with fragments of columns 
 and other sculptured marbles, the relics of the an- 
 cient Thebes. The house of the Vaivode is the 
 only considerable building in the place. The Bazar
 
 THEBES. 169 
 
 forms a small square in the centre of the town, 
 but its shops are scantily provided, and there is 
 that general air of indolence and neglect which 
 belongs to most places where the Turkish po- 
 pulation is predominant. Yet Thebes is said at 
 this time to be somewhat increasing in size; and 
 several groupes of mud-built cottages now appear 
 upon what was once the site of the lower city, de- 
 scribed by Pausanias to have been in ruins at the 
 time when he wrote. 
 
 The remains of antiquity in Thebes are ex- 
 ternally less conspicuous than in most of the other 
 great cities of Greece ; and even with the minute 
 details of Pausanias, it is difficult to make out the 
 position of the seven gates, or of the numerous 
 temples which adorned the city. Three or four 
 places, indeed, may be pointed out within or around 
 the modern town, where, from the form of the 
 ground, and the numerous fragments of columns 
 and marbles, it may be presumed that certain of 
 these temples stood j and I doubt not that when 
 circumstances shall allow of excavation here, much 
 will be found to repay research, even though the 
 Mercury of Phidias or the Minerva of Scopas 
 should never again be restored to light. One of 
 these spots is the small Greek church of St. Luke, 
 on an eminence close to the town ; now itself in 
 ruins, but containing various sculptured marbles, 
 which have thus doubly gone to decay. Another 
 church, to the south of the town, also in a ruinous 
 state, contains similar vestiges of an ancient temple.
 
 170 FOUNTAINS OF DIRCE AND ISMENUS. 
 
 Many Greek inscriptions are visible, as well in 
 these places, as in other parts of the city ; but more 
 interesting, because better defined objects, are the 
 fountains of Dirce and Ismenus ; the former at 
 the entrance from Livadia, and probably near the 
 site of the Crenean Gate ; the latter about half a 
 mile to the south-east of the city. The fountain 
 of Ismenus forms a , small pool, through which a 
 body of water gushes from the rock, forming at 
 once a considerable stream. This phenomenon, as 
 I have before observed, is very common in every 
 part of the limestone formation of Greece.* 
 
 At Thebes the authority of Ali Pasha began to 
 fail us ; and with all the activity of our Tartar, 
 we were exposed to difficulties here, which had not 
 equally occurred in other parts of our journey. The 
 town itself is subject to the government of the 
 Pasha of the Negropont; and the absence of 
 the Vaivode, who was attending his superior, 
 threw us into the house and hands of a knavish 
 Greek, who is familiarly known here by the 
 name of Nicholachi, and whose repute is of 
 a very low kind. We remained at Thebes two 
 days, and in making our excursions around the 
 town, were favoured by clear frosty weather, with 
 the thermometer at eight a. m. at 29° and 30°. 
 
 * The rock at Thebes appears to be in great part a cal- 
 careous conglomerate; and judging from the fragments, it seems 
 that the walls of the ancient edifices of the city were chiefly 
 composed of this rock, and even many of the columns of the 
 temples. The effect must have been greatly inferior to that of 
 the Pentelic marble.
 
 THEBES. 171 
 
 Cold, as well as a dense foggy atmosphere, was 
 one of the characteristics of Boeotia in old times ; 
 a conjoint effect of the marshes and lofty chains 
 of mountains which occupy this region. The 
 moral effect, attributed to these circumstances, is 
 perhaps less distinctly marked than formerly, in 
 the comparison of the Boeotians with the other 
 Greeks; all being now subject to a common bond- 
 age. Yet in the passage from Boeotia to Attica 
 the change is very striking ; and on the dry soil, 
 and under the temperate climate of the latter dis- 
 trict, the traveller finds a people more gay, more 
 animated, and vivacious, than their countrymen 
 either of the Boeotian or Thessalian plains. 
 
 The stranger in Boeotia, from whatsoever side he 
 come, can scarcely fail to be struck with the 
 beauty of the females in this country, and with a 
 general style of feature which approaches more to 
 the beau ideal, than any other I recollect to have 
 seen. Such observations, it is true, are often 
 founded upon partial instances ; but here I believe 
 it is not so ; and the traveller, who for some time 
 will watch over the Hercynian fountain at Livadia, 
 or that of Dirce at Thebes, will find this statement 
 confirmed even by the appearance of the common 
 washer-women who frequent these fountains. The 
 dress of the female peasants in the villages is on 
 the whole pleasing, though it may require some 
 effort to be satisfied with the ornaments of paras 
 and other coins attached to the head ; sometimes 
 actually forming a cap for it ; in other instances,
 
 17^ THESPIA. 
 
 hanging down in long strings among the hair. 
 This fashion is practised even with girls who can 
 scarcely walk ; and I have often been asked by 
 mothers, who were ashamed to beg on their own 
 account, for some coins to append to the heads of 
 their little daughters. The amount of this finery 
 increases as they grow up ; and a young female 
 peasant, when old enough to be married, may fairly 
 be said to carry her dowry in her dress. 
 
 While at Thebes we had the opportunity of wit- 
 nessing a procession of females, attending a Greek 
 bride to her house after marriage. There were 
 various circumstances in this spectacle strongly re- 
 calling to mind the ceremonies of ancient Greece 
 on similar occasions. These popular and familiar 
 usages are often retained, where every other vestige 
 of kindred between remote generations has passed 
 away. 
 
 We left Thebes on the last day of the year, de- 
 viating from the direct road to Athens, to visit the 
 ruins of Thespia, and the .celebrated fields of 
 Leuctra and Platea. Our companion for a part of 
 the way to Thespia, was a drunken Dervish going 
 to Livadia; whose vehement gestures, loud speech, 
 and idiotical laughter, surprised, and sometimes 
 almost startled us. Following the course of a long 
 and retired valley, with the eastern extremity of 
 Helicon in front of us, we came to the ruins of 
 Thespia, scattered over an extensive surface of 
 ploughed land, but presenting no individual re- 
 mains of any importance. Some of the fragments of
 
 THESPIA. 
 
 173 
 
 marbles are irregularly placed in two small ruined 
 buildings, which have probably been Greek churches, 
 constructed from the remains of more ancient edi- 
 fices. In one of these I found a marble, having 
 upon it an inscription, in which the words " Praxi- 
 teles Athenaios" immediately struck me, and which 
 is further singular from the division of the surface 
 into small squares, each square on the alternate 
 lines containing a single letter. The inscription, 
 as far as it was legible, stood thus : — 
 
 A 
 
 1 
 
 I|A 
 
 M 
 
 A 
 
 n 
 
 p 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 N 
 E 
 
 T 
 X 
 I 
 
 M 
 
 | 
 
 X 
 
 u 
 
 i|o 
 
 ! 
 
 HJZJ 
 
 A 
 
 A 
 
 O 
 
 © 
 
 T 
 
 H 
 
 O 
 
 N 
 
 I 
 A 
 
 S 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 A 
 T 
 
 P 
 
 E 1 
 
 O 
 
 2 
 
 
 8 
 
 p [a 
 
 1 
 
 2 {t 
 1 
 
 : 
 
 The name of Praxiteles, in connection with 
 Thespia, is interesting ; since it is well known that 
 the celebrated Cupid of this artist, which he him- 
 self considered the finest of his works, was pre- 
 sented to the Thespians. We learn from Cicero, 
 that it was common to go to Thespia for the sole 
 purpose of seeing this statue. * 
 
 The situation of Thespia is rendered agreeable 
 by the vicinity of Helicon, which here, as from 
 
 * The reader will recollect the anecdote of the mistress of 
 Praxiteles, who, to ascertain the comparative estimation in which 
 he held his own works, created a false alarm of fire, by which 
 Praxiteles was brought forwards, crying out " that his Cupid 
 should be saved." This statue is said to have been afterwards 
 transferred to Rome by Nero, and eventually destroyed then 
 bv fire.
 
 174 PLATEA. 
 
 most other points of view, is extremely picturesque 
 in its outline. In proceeding to Leuctra, which is 
 only a few miles distant, the neighbouring chain of 
 Cithaeron began to rise on the right hand ; which 
 continuing in an easterly direction, forms the gene- 
 ral boundary between Bceotia and Attica. The 
 field of Leuctra, ennobled in history by the memory 
 of Epaminondas and Pelopidas, is less distinct in 
 its locality than that of Platea, where we arrived 
 in less than two hours afterwards ; so closely ad- 
 joining together are these two celebrated scenes 
 of Grecian prowess, against the barbarians, and 
 against each other. At Platea, the positions of the 
 two armies during the many days which preceded 
 the battle, and the various points in the battle 
 itself, are determined with considerable exactness 
 by the course of the Asopus, — by the small 
 meadow island of CEroe, formed between two 
 branches of this river, — by the ruins of the city of 
 Platea, — and by the ridges and ravines of Mount 
 Cithaeron rising above it. The situation of the 
 camp of Mardonius, on the northern side the 
 river, is likewise indicated generally by the nature 
 of the ground ; and we may, perhaps, consider a 
 spring in this vicinity, near to the Asopus, as the 
 representative of the fountain of Gargraphia, often 
 alluded to in the narrative of the battle. * I must 
 agree, however, with Mr. Hobhouse's commentary 
 
 * It appeared to me, by a comparison at the time, that the 
 map of this ground, given in the travels of Anacharsis, is not 
 one of great accuracy.
 
 PLATEA. 175 
 
 on tlie field of Platea, that it is difficult or impossi- 
 ble to look over this place, without believing that 
 lustory has exaggerated the number of the comba- 
 tants. Applying the details of Herodotus to the 
 local features, it seems incredible that a multitude, 
 much greater even than the force in modern battles, 
 should have been assembled on a space of ground, 
 narrow and defined like that between the Asopus 
 and the heights of Cithaeron. I do not believe that 
 any reference to the tactics of Greek or Persian 
 armies will obviate this difficulty. 
 
 The city of Platea, twice destroyed by the enmity 
 and superior power of the Thebans, exliibits never- 
 theless at this day more external vestiges of its 
 ancient state, than is the case with its former rival. 
 The outline of the walls, which are of the ancient 
 Greek structure, is every where distinct, and in 
 many places they have still a height of 20 or 25 feet 
 above the ground. The circumference of the city, 
 as thus defined, must have been somewhat more than 
 a mile and half. The area is filled with fragments 
 and ruins; some of which, as at Thebes and Thespia, 
 have been employed in the construction of a Greek 
 church, now also gone to decay. The stone here, 
 like that of the two places just mentioned, is chiefly 
 a calcareous conglomerate. The situation of Pla- 
 tea was fine ; on the rising ground above the 
 Asopus, with the woody ridge of Cithaeron rising 
 behind ; commanding an extensive view o^ the 
 plains of Boeotia, and of the great mountain ranges 
 which bound this part of Greece.
 
 176 PASSAGE OVER CITHjERON. 
 
 We passed the night at a small village called 
 Kochli, near the ruins ; our place of lodging being 
 an apartment, into which were crowded, besides our 
 own party, a large family of all ages, two horses, 
 nine oxen, and two asses. The inhabitants of 
 Kochli, as well as of other villages in this vicinity, 
 are of Albanian descent, and speak chiefly the Al- 
 banian language. The females of this district are 
 dressed in a pleasing manner ; their outer garment 
 being of white woollen stuff, with deep red borders, 
 and with tassels and other appendages of the same 
 colour. 
 
 The new-year's-day of 1813, was signalized to 
 us by our arrival at Athens. At five in the morn- 
 ing, we quitted Platea, and by the aid of torches 
 carried before us, ascended over rugged paths to- 
 wards the summit of Cithaeron. Darkness was still 
 spread over the plains of Bceotia : but looking back 
 upon them, we saw moving lights here and there, 
 and found that these came from the husbandmen 
 who had already begun the labours of the plough. 
 Crossing the snowy summit of Cithaeron, under the 
 dawning of a magnificent day, (the thermometer 
 here was at 28,) we entered Attica, not far from 
 the ancient town of Eleuthera ; the ruined walls 
 of which encircle a rugged hill to the left of the 
 road. Hence for two or three hours we travel- 
 led through a hilly and broken country; the moun- 
 tains composed of a coarse marble, covered with 
 forests of pine, but very bare of other vegetation. 
 Leaving the defiles and narrow vallies of these hills,
 
 VIEW OF ATHENS. 177 
 
 we came upon the great Thriasian plain, at the 
 head of the Eleusinian Gulf; the waters of which 
 bay, intercepted by the isle of Salamis, and the line 
 of the Attican coast, were spread before us like a 
 great lake; the forms of the mountains and isles 
 reflected on their placid surface. In the arid and 
 unfruitful soil of this plain, we already recognized 
 one character of the ancient Attica. 
 
 Crossing this long level, and leaving Eleusis to 
 the right hand, we entered upon the Via Sacra, the 
 road by which the great processions passed from 
 Athens to the temple of Ceres at Eleusis. It con- 
 ducted us first underneath the cliffs upon the shore ; 
 then by a rapid ascent between the hills iEgaleon 
 and Corydalus, names long since familiar to the 
 ear. * We passed the picturesque monastery of 
 Daphne, conjectured as the site of the temple of 
 Apollo, which once stood in this pass ; half a mile 
 beyond, caught a view of the eastern part of the 
 plain of Athens ; and a few minutes afterwards, in 
 coming to a break in the hills, heard our Tartar 
 shout with a loud voice, " Athena! Athena!'* The 
 intimation was needless. We already had the sa- 
 cred city before our eyes ; noble in its situation, 
 noble in its ruins, and in the recollection it gives 
 of ancient times and ancient men. It was now the 
 latter part of the day; and the setting sun (the 
 first setting sun of 1813) threw a gleam of light 
 on the western front of the Acropolis, and on the 
 
 * The rock in these hills is marble, much intersected by con- 
 temporaneous veins of calcareous spar. 
 VOL. II N
 
 178 ARRIVAL AT ATHENS. 
 
 splendid groupe of buildings which cover its sum- 
 mit. Already the Parthenon was discernible, pre- 
 eminent over the rest ; the city of Athens was seen 
 spread over a great extent below ; the chain of 
 Hymettus beyond ; more immediately beneath us 
 the great plain and olive-groves of Athens, con- 
 ducting the eye in one direction to the lofty sum- 
 mits of Pentelicus ; on the other to the Pirseus, to 
 Salamis, iEgina, and the other isles of the gulf, 
 and to the mountains of the Peloponnesus in the 
 remote distance. It was a landscape of the most 
 extraordinary kind ; such as might strongly interest 
 the stranger, even without the aid of those associ- 
 ations, which every part of the scenery so amply 
 affords. 
 
 We descended from the pass of the Sacred Way 
 into the plain; traversed the venerable wood of 
 Olives which occupies its central part ; crossed the 
 small and divided stream of the Cephissus, and at 
 five o'clock entered the city, by the gate near to 
 the temple of Theseus. The English, more than any 
 other people, have cultivated the ancient through 
 the modern Athens ; and one of the first persons 
 we saw in approaching the place, was an English- 
 man, looking over an excavation which had been 
 made for the purposes of research.
 
 179 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 ATHENS. — GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE PLACE. ITS ME- 
 MORIALS OF ANTIQUITY. — SCENERY AROUND THE CITY.— 
 CLIMATE. — CHARACTER OF THE INHABITANTS. — MARA- 
 THON. — PENTELICUS. — MINERALOGICAL REMARKS. 
 
 DEPARTURE FOR THE PELOPONNESUS. ELEUSIS. — ME- 
 
 GARA. CORINTH. — NEMEA- MYCENjE. — ARGOS. — 
 
 TRIPOLITZA. — CALAVRITA. — PATRAS. — PASSAGE TO 
 ZANTE. 
 
 We remained at Athens till nearly the end of Ja- 
 nuary. I do not attempt to describe this cele- 
 brated spot, either in its ancient or modern features. 
 The labours of travellers during the last century, 
 and especially within the last few years, have done 
 so much to illustrate these subjects, that all I could 
 say would be merely the repetition of facts already 
 known. Richly as Athens merits all the talents of 
 the antiquarian and artist, and all the feelings of 
 the enthusiast in former times, it must be con- 
 fessed that the field is not a neglected one, and 
 that abundant materials of art and knowledge have 
 already been drawn from this copious source of 
 ancient treasures. Copious it may indeed be called ; 
 since research here is still amply productive ; and 
 the traveller who can afford some time and ex- 
 pence, may himself bring these treasures to light ; 
 even without exciting controversy as to the de- 
 struction of temples, or the defacement of the 
 
 memorials of ancient grandeur. 
 
 n 2
 
 180 ATHENS. 
 
 Those who expect to see at Athens only the 
 more splendid and obvious testimonies of its former 
 state, will find themselves agreeably mistaken in 
 the reality of the scene. It may be allowed that 
 the Parthenon, the Theseum, the Propyloea, the 
 temple of Minerva Polias, » &c. are individually the 
 most striking of the objects occurring here ; yet it 
 may be added that they are less interesting singly 
 than in their combined relation to that wonderful 
 grouping together of nature and art, which gives 
 its peculiarity to Athens, and renders the scenery 
 of this spot something which is ever unique to the 
 eye and recollection. Here, if any where, there is 
 a certain genius of the place which unites and gives 
 a character and colouring to the whole ; and it is 
 worthy of remark, that this genius loci is one which 
 most strikingly connects the modern Athens with 
 the city of former days. Every part of the sur- 
 rounding landscape may be recognized as harmo- 
 nious and beautiful in itself; and at the same time 
 as furnishing those objects, which are consecrated 
 by ancient description, and by the history of 
 heroic actions •> and which are still more interest- 
 ing in their connection with the site of those 
 celebrated schools of philosophy, which have trans- 
 mitted their influence to every succeeding age. 
 The stranger, who may be unable to appreciate all 
 the architectural beauties of the temples of Athens, 
 yet can admire the splendid assemblage they form 
 in their position, outline, and colouring ; can trace 
 out the pictures of the poets in the vale of Ce~
 
 ATHENS. 181 
 
 phissus, the hill of Colonos, and the purple ridges 
 of Hymettus * ; can look on one side upon the sea 
 of Salamis, on the other upon the heights of Phyle ; 
 and can tread upon the spots which have acquired 
 sanctity from the genius and philosophy, of which 
 they were once the seats. The hill of the Areo- 
 pagus, the Academy, the Lycaeum, the Portico, 
 the Pnyx, if not all equally distinct in their situa- 
 tion, yet can admit of little error in this respect ; 
 and the traveller may safely venture to assert to 
 himself, that he is standing where Demosthenes 
 spoke to the Athenians, and where Plato and 
 Aristotle addressed themselves to their scholars. 
 Nowhere is antiquity so well substantiated as at 
 Athens, or its outline so completely filled up both 
 to the eye and imagination. 
 
 The impressions of this nature, which the tra- 
 veller obtains, derive much vividness from the num- 
 ber of minute vestiges surrounding him ; and these 
 are often even more striking to the fancy than the 
 greater memorials of ancient art. Every point in 
 and around Athens abounds with such vestiges ; — 
 the fragments of: columns, sculptured marbles, and 
 Greek inscriptions. Scarcely a single house but 
 affords some of these remains ; more or less muti- 
 lated, indeed, yet all with some interest annexed to 
 them, as the representatives of a past age. This 
 familiarity and frequency with which classic names 
 and images are brought before the eye, cannot fail 
 
 * " Purpureos colles florentis Hymetti." Ovid. 
 N 3
 
 182 ATHENS. 
 
 of interesting the attention ; and it forms one of 
 the most striking circumstances to the stranger in 
 Athens. 
 
 The character of the landscape around the city 
 is very peculiar, even without reference to any of 
 the circumstances that have been described. There 
 is a certain simplicity of outline and colouring, com- 
 bined with the magnificence of form and extent, 
 which contributes much to this particular effect. 
 It cannot be called a rich scenery, for the dry soil 
 of Attica refuses any luxuriance of vegetation ; 
 and, excepting the great olive-grove of the plain, 
 little wood enters into the landscape. Yet one of 
 its most striking features is a sort of repose, which 
 may be derived from the form of the hills, from 
 their slopes into the plain, and from the termin- 
 ation of this plain in the placid surface of the gulf 
 of Salamis ; above all, perhaps, from the resting 
 point which the eye finds in the height of the 
 Acropolis, and in the splendid groupe of ruins co- 
 vering its summit. In this latter object there is a 
 majestic tranquillity, the effect of time and of its 
 present state, which may not easily be described, so 
 as to convey an idea of the reality of the spot. 
 The stranger will find himself perplexed in fixing 
 on the point of view whence the aspect of these 
 ruins is most imposing, or their combination most 
 perfect with the other groupes which surround 
 them.* 
 
 * The tinge of yellowish red, which has been taken in part by 
 the marble of these temples, gives a peculiarity which may be
 
 ATHENS. 183 
 
 The situation and outline of Hymettus, as well 
 as the summits of the mountains of Pentelicus, 
 which terminate the landscape towards the east, add 
 much to the beauty of the scenery around Athens. 
 The three ports of the city are still perfectly dis- 
 tinct, and there are many vestiges of the town of the 
 Piraeus ; but these objects are on too small a scale 
 to detain the eye, which passes forwards to Salamis, 
 JEgina, and the other isles of the gulf; and to the 
 mountains of the Isthmus of Corinth, and of the 
 Peloponnesus, in the remote distance. 
 
 Some part of the peculiarity of this scenery 
 may perhaps be derived from the climate of At- 
 tica, which affords an atmosphere for the most 
 part clear, dry and temperate ; very different 
 from that which hangs over the low plains and 
 marshes of Bceotia. The peninsular situation of 
 Attica, and the nature of the surface, both con- 
 tribute to this effect. The temperature at Athens 
 is more uniform than in other parts of Greece, and 
 the quantity of rain falling here below the general 
 average of this country. A few details on this sub- 
 
 considered perhaps to add to their effect. This discoloration 
 arises from the iron in the marble, or in the mica, which forms a 
 part of it. It is said, and it seems to me accurately, that the 
 discoloration is less on those surfaces which are directly op- 
 posed to the sea. The cause may be, that the saline particles 
 of the sea atmosphere are constantly yielding a small portion of 
 muriatic acid to the oxide of iron, which is thus insensibly car- 
 ried away as it is formed. 
 
 N 4
 
 184 ATHENS. 
 
 ject are given in the subjoined note ;* and it may 
 certainly be supposed that this character of climate 
 has an influence on the aspect under which its 
 scenery and ruins are presented to the view. 
 
 The state of modern Athens does not appear, un- 
 til lately, to have been known to the rest of Europe. 
 Fancy has drawn for itself a wretched village, with 
 houses scattered among the ruins of temples ; and 
 
 * I learn from M. Fauvel that the average annual quantity of 
 rain at Athens is 21 or 22 inches. Between the middle of Oc- 
 tober 1812 and the 1st of January 1813, the quantity did not 
 exceed 1\ inches ; a circumstance singular at this season of the 
 year, and considering the heavy rains that fell during the same 
 period in the more northern parts of Greece. From the same 
 gentleman, and from Signore Vitali, one of the physicians of the 
 city, I obtained a few observations as to the maximum and mini- 
 mum of temperature in different years. In 1804, the greatest heat 
 was on the 24th of July, as high as 104° of Fahrenheit ; but this at 
 Athens is a very uncommon temperature. In 1805, the maximum 
 was 99° on the 4th of August. In 1806 and 1807 the temperature 
 never rose above 93° or 94°. The minimum in these different 
 years varied from 28° to 32°. In 1812, the year preceding my ar- 
 rival, the general temperature had been rather low than otherwise. 
 On the 28th of April snow was lying on Parnes and Hymettus, 
 the thermometer in the city standing at 52°. On the 5th of 
 July it was at 93°, and reached the same height on the 10th of 
 August. On the 21st of September, the heat was at 68°, on the 
 29th of September at 61° ; and at this average height of about 
 60° it continued during the whole of October. During the 
 month of January, which we passed at Athens, the average of 
 the thermometer at 8 a. m. did not exceed 40°: the highest point 
 at which I observed it was 50°, the lowest at the same hour 33°. 
 After our departure, however, the cold became more severe ; 
 and what is very uncommon, the snow lay three or four days 
 within the city. The coldest weather at Athens is usually with 
 a north-east wind, as is perhaps the case generally throughout 
 Greece.
 
 ATHENS. 185 
 
 few before this time have looked for a large and 
 flourishing town, well peopled, and containing 
 many excellent houses, with various appendages be- 
 longing to the better stage of cultivated life. Yet 
 all this will be found here ; and on the identical 
 spot which in old times was occupied by the sacred 
 city of Minerva ; the name preserved, and a mul- 
 titude of other circumstances to aid the impression 
 which brings together ages thus remote in reality. 
 
 I describe these as the more general impressions 
 which Athens is likely to convey in its external 
 character. The place has its peculiarities also in a 
 moral point of view, as to what respects the man- 
 ners and condition of its inhabitants. Though of 
 the twelve thousand composing its population, it is 
 probable that a fifth part are Turks, and though the 
 governors both of the town and Acropolis are of 
 this nation, yet the character of the city is princi- 
 pally defined by its Greek population, and all the 
 effective power of the place belongs to this class of 
 the inhabitants. This is chiefly perhaps in conse- 
 quence of the place not being subject to a provin- 
 cial Turkish government, but annexed to a particu- 
 lar office of the Seraglio at Constantinople. It may 
 in part, however, be attributed to the character of 
 the Greeks of the city ; and it is interesting to 
 remark that some of the features belonging to this 
 people are those which were the most characteristic 
 of the ancient Athenians. They are noted, even 
 in the proverbial sayings of their own countrymen, 
 for quickness, vivacity, and disposition to intrigue;
 
 186 ATHENS. 
 
 and this, although their limited commerce gives 
 them fewer opportunities of travelling, and their 
 literary cultivation is much inferior to that of the 
 Greeks of Ioannina, and of the eastern districts of 
 Thessaly. Scarcely a single modern Romaic work 
 has come from the pen of an Athenian ; and I 
 have found few among the Greeks so scantily in- 
 formed of the ancient condition of their country 
 as are the people of this city, notwithstanding their 
 frequent intercourse with travellers from the west 
 of Europe. 
 
 Still the fact is true, that the Athenians of this 
 day furnish various striking memorials of their 
 ancestors ; whether it be that this is determined by 
 climate, or by something of generic character in 
 the race, which has been able to oppose itself to 
 the lapse of time, and to the changes in political 
 state. The scale indeed is now greatly reduced, 
 but in the internal administration of the city, may 
 still be found the intrigue and cabals, the same de- 
 mocratic spirit and fluctuating feelings, which meet 
 us every-where in the former history of Athens. 
 The election and functions of the four Archons, and 
 the various schemes for limiting or directing the 
 power of the Turkish Vaivode, are now the prin- 
 cipal objects of political attention ; and these things 
 serve to keep alive the active spirit of the inha- 
 bitants, and furnish a basis for party spirit and pri- 
 vate feuds. A rude resemblance of Pericles still 
 walks the streets of Athens, in the person of one 
 
 of the Archons ; a man now advanced in age, but 
 
 12
 
 ATHENS. 187 
 
 whose faculties are fully awake, and who by dint of 
 intrigue, plausible manners, and knowledge of 
 mankind, has long maintained a paramount autho- 
 rity in the place. This authority, which extends 
 to Turks as well as Greeks, is externally concealed, 
 but not on this account the less real in its effects. * 
 
 The state of society in Athens is distinguished 
 from that of other parts of Greece, by its greater 
 vivacity and freedom from restraint. In this cir- 
 cumstance also there will be seen some affinity to 
 the habits of the ancient Athenians, though it must 
 be owned that the probable causes are peculiar in 
 part to modern times. The feebleness of the 
 Turkish government here has contributed to this 
 effect ; still more perhaps the constant residence of 
 foreigners in the city. The influence of the latter 
 circumstance is distinctly seen in various habits and 
 feelings of the people ; and has been considerably 
 extended of late years, by the direction which Eng- 
 lish travellers have taken, during their exclusion 
 from other parts of the continent. There is a cer- 
 tain festivity about Athens which does not equally 
 belong to any other Greek town : the oppression of 
 slavery is less visibly present, and is actually felt in 
 a slighter degree by the inhabitants. Even the 
 Turks here seem to have lost something of their 
 harshness, and become a people of quiet and inof- 
 
 * I learn that soon alter we left Athens a certain degree ot 
 change was effected in the government of the city, rendering an- 
 nual the election of the Archons, and thereby making the con- 
 stitution more democratic.
 
 188 ATHENS. 
 
 fensive habits. From whatsoever part of Turkey 
 the traveller may arrive, he finds himself coming to 
 a sort of home, where various comforts may be ob- 
 tained, that are unknown elsewhere in this country. 
 Society is more attainable, and the Greek females 
 enter into it in general with much less restraint than 
 in Ioannina or other Greek towns. 
 
 It is not surprising then, that Athens should have 
 been selected as a place of abode by travellers and 
 artists; conjoining, as they may here, an agreeable 
 residence with the study of the finest remains of an- 
 tiquity. Englishmen, Frenchmen, and Germans, 
 may almost always be found among the inhabitants 
 of Athens, — the first, however, generally in a ten- 
 fold proportion to the others, and taking Athens as 
 a resting place or centre to more extensive research. 
 The few French residents are chiefly old Levant 
 merchants. The consul of this nation, M. Fauvel, 
 is well known by his long abode here, and his in- 
 dustry and ingenuity in various objects of research. 
 The Germans living in Athens are principally ar- 
 tists, employed in Greece in this capacity by 
 different German courts. Of the Italian resi- 
 dents, Signore Lusieri is the only one devoted to 
 objects of art ; the remainder either exercise the 
 medical profession, or belong to some inferior station 
 in life. The agreeableness of the place is of course 
 much increased by this Frank population, many 
 of them incidentally brought together with common 
 objects of enjoyment and research.
 
 ATHENS. 189 
 
 We were extremely fortunate in finding at 
 Athens at this time, the Hon. Frederick North ; 
 who had returned hither some weeks before, after 
 passing the preceding year in Egypt and Syria. 
 A society, always valuable, was singularly so in 
 this place ; where Mr. North is regarded by all the 
 inhabitants, with feelings which are rarely given to 
 the passing traveller. * Through the kindness of 
 this gentleman, we speedily became acquainted 
 with much of the society of Athens, and this ac- 
 quaintance was greatly extended by the many peo- 
 ple who sought medical advice from me, particu- 
 larly during the last fortnight of our stay in the 
 city. Among my patients here, I was enabled to 
 reckon the Turkish Vaivode, two of the Greek 
 Archons, and different individuals in the families 
 of the other Archons, besides various persons of 
 respectable Greek family, though not equally titled 
 in office. A further introduction to Athenian society 
 
 * Mr. North's merits as a scholar, and his intimate know, 
 ledge of modern Greek literature, have done even less in con- 
 necting him with Greece, than his intercourse with the people 
 of this country, and the reputation for generous and enlightened 
 'iberality which he has every where left behind him. This is 
 especially true with respect to Athens, where he has aided in 
 various ways the public interests of the place, and obtained the 
 affection of the inhabitants by numerous acts of individual 
 kindness. 
 
 We were fortunate also in meeting here the missiou oi' the 
 Dilettanti Society, at this time on their return from the coasts o( 
 Ionia. The valuable results obtained by Sir W. Gell and lii^ 
 associates, as well in Asia Minor as in Greece, are now on the 
 point of being given to the literary world.
 
 190 ATHENS. 
 
 was afforded us by a ball, which Mr. North gave at 
 this time to the inhabitants. This was not a new 
 amusement to them, as they had frequently been 
 indebted to their English visitors for similar enter- 
 tainments. The ball in question was attended by 
 more than ninety Athenians, among whom were 
 between thirty and forty ladies, all habited in the 
 Greek fashion, and many of them with great rich- 
 ness of decoration. The dance of the Romaika, 
 which I have elsewhere described, occupied the 
 greater part of the evening ; mixed at intervals 
 with the Albanitiko , which was here refined into 
 somewhat less of wildness, than belongs to the 
 native dance. The spectacle was altogether curious 
 and amusing : nor less so the preparation and sur- 
 mises which preceded the ball, and the scandal of 
 various kinds which followed it ; similar in reality 
 to all that happens on less classical ground ; though 
 differing in the names, and other minor circum- 
 stances of national custom. * 
 
 Among other excursions from Athens, we did not 
 neglect the celebrated plain of Marathon ; distant 
 about 24 miles from the city, on the opposite coast 
 of the peninsula.^ The distinct memorials which 
 are still afforded by the tombstones, erected where 
 
 * Another spectacle of a different kind, which I saw for the 
 first time in Athens, was the dance of the Dervishes. This 
 strange religious ceremony, which has often been described by 
 travellers, is practised here twice each week in the ancient Tem- 
 ple of the Winds. It is a singular compound of solemnity, and 
 uncouth fanatical wildness ; which in parts may be thought even 
 interesting ; — more frequently is disgusting or ridiculous.
 
 MARATHON. PENTELICUS. 1Q1 
 
 the Athenians fell ; — by the outline of the valley, 
 where is now the village of Vranna ; and by the 
 marshes into which the Persians were precipitated 
 in their flight, cannot fail of being interesting to 
 the traveller. It may fairly be said of Marathon, 
 that there are few modern fields of battle, which 
 better authenticate history, or more entirely ex- 
 plain the events which happened on their surface. 
 
 In the expedition we made to Marathon, we in- 
 cluded the mountains of Pentelicus \ a lofty groupe, 
 and picturesque in their forms ; interesting also as 
 affording the great quarries of marble, from which 
 the Athenians raised their noblest monuments of 
 art. We visited these quarries, and penetrated to 
 the extremity of the deep caverns which run into 
 the rocks at this place. The highest point in the 
 Pentelicus groupe, forms a sugar-loaf cone, which 
 rises to a great height above the level of the sea. 
 These mountains are further interesting, as they 
 illustrate the geological relations of the marble of 
 this district, in its junction with the mica-slate, 
 which lies beneath as a basis to these elevated 
 points of primitive limestone. The geology of 
 Attica at large is extremely interesting, and would 
 probably well reward the enquiry of the naturalist, 
 who might have time to give his attention to this 
 object, t 
 
 f I cannot here do more than give a few scanty remarks on 
 the mineralogy of this district; which possibly, however, may 
 give some aid to future research. 
 
 Almost all the ranges of hill, which traverse Attica, are com- 
 posed of primitive limestone, of which that of Pentelicus is per-
 
 192 ATHENS. 
 
 It was very reluctantly that we departed from 
 Athens, on our return through the Morea to th- 
 
 haps the most perfectly granular, and certainly of the purest 
 whiteness. That of Hymettus is of inferior quality, and for the 
 most part of a blueish or blackish grey colour ; traversed also, as 
 it seems, by more numerous veins. The rock of the Acropolis, of 
 Anchesmus, and of other eminences surrounding Athens, is still 
 of inferior quality, and much worn into caves, which every- 
 where exhibit a surface, strongly tinged with oxide of iron. I 
 have not actually seen the marble of Mount Parnes; but it pro- 
 bably may resemble that of lcarius and Corydalus, already al- 
 luded to. 
 
 This marble formation evidently reposes upon one of mica 
 slate, which appears in various places near Athens, and still 
 more remarkably in the Pentelic mountains. The strata of slate 
 may be seen cropping out in some small eminences, a mile to the 
 west of the city, near the road to the Piraeus. I have observed 
 them again without the walls, on the side of Colonos. They be- 
 came more remarkable in the Pass between the greater and 
 lesser Anchesmus, where the road to Marathon passes between 
 rocks of very contorted stratification. Vestiges of this mica 
 slate formation will also be found in the channel of the Ilissus, 
 not far from the Stadium ; the rock in most of these places, how- 
 ever, being a good deal decomposed. 
 
 On the eastern side of Pentelicus, I traced the mica slate up- 
 wards from the Monastery of Mendele, to within 300 yards of the 
 quarries, where the great mass of marble appears reposing upon it. 
 
 The general character of the strata is highly inclined ; in one 
 place where I measured the inclination, I found it from 50° to 
 60°. The transition to the marble appears to be gradual, and I 
 could not observe any where a decided line of junction. The 
 marble near the slate contains much mica, and this is gradually 
 lessened in rising higher up the mountain. Even in the marble 
 of the quarries, however, it still appears, and may be seen in 
 that of the broken columns of the Parthenon at Athens. I re- 
 marked at Pentelicus, that the slate, where much mixed with 
 marble, has very frequently a greenish colour, resembling 
 chlorite. It does not abound in garnets, though I observed some
 
 ROUTE TO ELEUSIS. IQS 
 
 Ionian Isles. It was now the depth of winter ; and 
 we could not venture to form any lively anticipations 
 of pleasure, even from the scenery of the ancient 
 Arcadia, through which our route lay. The com- 
 mencement of this winter had been of more than 
 common severity, and its progress unfortunately 
 corresponded with these early appearances. Our 
 Tartar Osmyn had quitted us at Athens, on his re- 
 turn to Ioannina ; and we now were attended by a 
 Janissary, a man of quiet manners, and who proved 
 of very little service to our journey. J The Morea, 
 however, has of late been so much traversed, that 
 such an appendage becomes here less necessary, to 
 those at least who are already familiar with the 
 usages of Turkish travelling. 
 
 We proceeded from Athens to Eleusis by the 
 Sacred Way ; passing the salt-pools mentioned by 
 
 small ones. The same formation of mica slate appears on the 
 other side of the Pentelic mountains, extending down to the 
 plains of Marathon and the sea. Some serpentine also occurs 
 on this coast, as well as on the range of Hymettus. The con- 
 nection of these formations, with those formerly noticed along 
 other parts of the east coasfof Greece, will at once be observed. 
 
 Some singular appearances occur a little to the west of Athens, 
 near the road to the Pyreeus, where an eminence of limestone 
 will be seen, with an extraordinary broken aspect, and traversed 
 by two or three veins, filled with calcareous matter, which is 
 tinged by iron of various shades, and contains here and there 
 many quartz fragments. On the coast at the Pyrauis, there 
 occurs a very recent calcareous formation, containing shells. 
 
 I regret that I had not the opportunity of visiting Laurium, 
 and of examining the rocks, in which were the ancient mines of 
 this district. 
 
 vol. ir. o
 
 194 ROUTE FROM ELEUSIS TO MEGARA. 
 
 Pausanias, which still retain their ancient qualities. 
 The modern Eleusis is a wretched place, and until 
 lately afforded few vestiges of its former magnifi- 
 cence ; but the recent labours of Sir W. Gell have 
 restored, by excavation, the plan of the great tem- 
 ple of Ceres, as well as the Propylaea, and the 
 smaller temple of Diana in the vicinity of it ; — 
 an investigation which afforded many interesting 
 results. 
 
 The road from Eleusis to Megara conducted us 
 along the woody cliffs which border the strait 
 between the mainland and the isle of Salamis, a 
 route deriving much picturesque beauty from the 
 broken and irregular outline of these shores. We 
 must have passed, in some part of our way, the 
 spot where Procrustes is said to have tortured his 
 victims ; but I did not observe any thing which 
 could afford a local illustration of this story. Pass- 
 ing to the south of the mountain, called Kerata 
 from its two peaked summits, we came to the 
 plain and town of Megara ; the latter distant from 
 Athens about twenty-four miles. The very fre- 
 quent preservation of the ancient names in Greece, 
 is a circumstance adding much to the interest the 
 traveller feels in this country. In approaching 
 Athens, we had passed through Livadia and 
 Thebes : we now quitted it by the route of Eleusis, 
 Megara, Corinth, and Argos ; all these places 
 named at present as they were in the most ancient 
 times of Greece. 
 
 Megara contains about 400 houses ; singular
 
 ROUTE FROM MEGARA TO CORINTH. 195 
 
 from being all flat-roofed. I have seen few places 
 in Greece where there are so many inscriptions 
 scattered on the ground and in the walls of houses, 
 as in this town. On an eminence to the east of 
 the place, are the vestiges of an extensive build- 
 ing, among which we found a sepulchral marble, 
 with some basso-relievo figures upon it, of consi- 
 derable merit in the execution. 
 
 Our next stage was to Corinth, distant from 
 Megara about thirty miles. The road is one of 
 the greatest interest in its scenery and associations ; 
 particularly where, having past the Derveni, or 
 guarded pass, the traveller ascends the lofty ridge 
 of mountains, anciently called Geranion ; and at 
 their summit finds himself on a pinnacle between 
 the Corinthian and Saronic gulfs ; the celebrated 
 Isthmus of Corinth lying directly beneath him ; a 
 thousand objects of classical name lining the shores 
 of the gulfs, or appearing in the landscape further 
 removed from the coast. There are few points in 
 Greece which illustrate at once the history of so 
 many events in past ages. The ridge of Geranion 
 is further interesting, as forming, in its position 
 across the northern extremity of the Isthmus, 
 the great natural barrier of the Peloponnesus, — a 
 barrier which may still perhaps be important at 
 some future time, in asserting the liberties of a 
 part of modern Greece. * 
 
 * The Geranion mountains attain a very high level above the 
 seas and intervening Isthmus beneath. They air extremely pic- 
 turesque in their outline, especially near the Corinthian gulf,
 
 196 ISTHMUS OF CORINTH. 
 
 From the mountains we descended to the lower 
 and more contracted part of the Isthmus ; a heavy 
 storm of snow and sleet mean-while falling upon 
 us. The interval between the two seas, little more 
 than four miles in breadth, is composed in great 
 part of broken and irregular ground, in few places 
 exceeding 150 feet in height. The remains are 
 still very distinct of the ancient wall which traversed 
 the Isthmus ; and there are probably traces also 
 of the canal, by which Nero intended to connect 
 the two gulfs. The place of the Isthmsean Games, 
 and of the temple of Neptune, may very clearly be 
 made out. In approaching to Corinth, the view 
 of the citadel, or Acro-Corinthos, becomes each 
 moment more remarkable ; an insulated and pre- 
 cipitous hill, sufficiently lofty to be seen from 
 
 where their descending cliffs form deep semicircular bays, with 
 luxuriant woods extending to the water's edge. The ridge was 
 at this time entirely covered with snow ; but from partial ap- 
 pearances, I should suppose that it was a calcareous formation, 
 like that of Cithaeron. On the lower part of the mountains, on 
 the Corinth side, I found some fragments of sienite ; but whe- 
 ther brought down from above, I will not venture to say. On 
 the same side of the ridge, there is a formation of calcareous 
 conglomerate ; curiously reticulated ; the interstices for the most 
 part angular ; many of the included fragments perfectly nodular, 
 and containing internally a decomposed earthy matter, much 
 tinged with iron, and intersected with numerous contemporane- 
 ous veins of calcareous spar. There are some indistinct organic 
 vestiges in this rock. The lower part of the Isthmus of Corinth 
 is apparently of the more recent calcareous formation ; but 
 this district requires, and would probably satisfy, a more minute 
 examination.
 
 GORINTH. 197 
 
 Athens, though a direct distance of more than 
 forty miles. 
 
 The modern Corinth is a small straggling place, 
 containing about 500 houses, with two mosques, 
 and an extensive palace, belonging to the Turkish 
 governor. A wide and fertile plain stretches be- 
 fore it along the shores of the gulf, covered in part 
 with olive-groves. The remains of the ancient city 
 are not adequate to its former splendour; the 
 principal ruin being a portion of what is supposed 
 the temple of Venus, of which only seven columns 
 are now standing. These columns, of the Doric 
 order, are remarkable as having a height of little 
 more than four diameters, a proportion scarcely 
 sufficient to satisfy the eye. The examination of 
 the Acro-Corinthos is destined to gratify future 
 curiosity. Its present character, as a Turkish 
 fortress, and in an important position, entirely 
 prohibits the access of the traveller ; and I have 
 known instances where much interest has been 
 employed in vain to procure this license. * 
 
 From Corinth we proceeded over rugged roads, 
 rendered almost impassable by the depth of the 
 snow, to the site of Nemea ; distinguishable by the 
 ruins of the great temple of Jupiter, and by other 
 vestiges of the ancient city. The three lofty Doric 
 columns, the remains of the great temple, rose 
 
 * I understand, however, that through Lord Elgin's interest 
 at Constantinople, Lusieri was allowed once to visit this spot. 
 I am not aware that any observation of importance was the re- 
 jult of this examination. 
 
 o 3
 
 198 \ MYCEN.E. 
 
 at this time from a waste of snow; a scene of 
 cheerless desolation, strikingly contrasted with the 
 history of a place, where the Grecian multitude once 
 assembled to the festivity of their games, and the 
 celebration of religious rites. 
 
 A route of little more than eight miles con- 
 ducted us from Nemea to the ruins of the venerable 
 Mycenae ; a spot magnificent in its natural situation, 
 and which affords peculiarly interesting memorials 
 of ancient Greece, such as go back to the most re- 
 mote periods of its history, and associate us even 
 with the heroic ages of this country. The very early 
 destruction of Mycenae is well known. The inter- 
 vention of more than twenty-two centuries has still 
 left behind, the remains of the great Cyclopian 
 walls ; the gate of Lions ; the large and curiously 
 constructed vault, supposed from Pausanias to be 
 the treasury of Atreus * ; a second vault, which 
 fancy might be willing to imagine the tomb of 
 Agamemnon, or of Clytemnestra ; and various 
 other vestiges of the same antiquity. There is a 
 massive simplicity about these ruins, and a bold- 
 ness in their situation, overhanging the ravines of 
 mountain-torrents, which accords well with the 
 history and associations of the spot. Even the 
 single stones have a grandeur of size, which gives 
 to each its character as a part of the whole. The 
 great oblong block, forming the architrave of the 
 door to the treasury of Atreus, has a length of 
 
 * This seems to be the same which M. Fauvel, in his memoir 
 on the subject, has considered to be the tomb of Agamemnon.
 
 ARGOS. 199 
 
 twenty-seven feet, and some of those about the 
 gate of Lions are little less remarkable. So con- 
 structed, it is perhaps scarcely to be wondered that 
 these buildings should have retained their form 
 through so many ages. * 
 
 The view from Mycenae extends over the plains 
 of Argos, lying at its feet ; comprehends in the 
 distance the great mountain-groupes of Arcadia ; 
 and in the nearer landscape the upper part of the 
 gulf of Argolis ; the modern town of Napoli di 
 Romania, on the site of the ancient Nauplia ; the 
 ruins of Tiryns, and the yet flourishing city of 
 Argos, surmounted by the lofty insulated rock of 
 its citadel. The remains of Tiryns have the same 
 character of massive, but uncouth grandeur, as 
 those of Mycenae ; and are remarkable for the 
 great Cyclopian galleries, or passages, within the 
 walls. The view of Argos from Mycenae illus- 
 trates different allusions in the Greek writers, and 
 combines to the eye at one moment two of the 
 most interesting points in ancient Greece. 
 
 Traversing the fertile plains of Argos, which are 
 watered by the Inachus of old times, and afford an 
 
 * The stone of which the walls, &c. of the ancient Mycenae 
 are constructed, is a calcareous conglomerate; the included 
 fragments calcareous, and frequently of large size. This stone 
 was obtained from the hills, on the declivity of which the city 
 stood. The same material is seen in the neighbouring ruins of 
 Tiryns, and is in fact common in various parts of Greece. 
 
 These several remains of Neinea, Mycena:, and Tiryns, are 
 minutely described in the work on the Argolis by Sir W. Gell, 
 which affords a valuable illustration of this portion t>f Greece.
 
 200 ARGOS. 
 
 abundant produce of corn, cotton, tobacco, and 
 wine, we arrived at the city. Its modern extent is 
 very considerable, and the streets are disposed with 
 more regularity than is usual in this country. The 
 population amounts to about 8000 souls. Scarcely 
 any external vestiges remain of the old Argos ; 
 and the works of Polycletes, in his native city, are 
 now either extinct or hidden under ground. The 
 ruined walls of the castle, however, display a mix- 
 ture of the ancient Cyclopian building, with the 
 more feeble structure of later times ; and the frag- 
 ments of several Doric columns are visible, which 
 may have belonged to the temple of Minerva ; as 
 well as a very old and curious inscription which 
 has been given by Sir W. Gell in his work on the 
 Argolis. The site of the celebrated temple of the 
 Argive Juno is still a desideratum to research ; but 
 this is to be sought tor at some distance from 
 Argos, and nearer to the ruins of Mycenae. * 
 
 At Argos we found a very intelligent physician, 
 and passed some time also at the house of one of 
 the Greek primates of the city. Here we found 
 as strongly marked as elsewhere, that indignant 
 feeling of their political situation, which is at least 
 one step towards the future freedom of the Greeks. 
 An abortive attempt at their own liberation had 
 recently been made, when Veli Pasha was return- 
 ing with the broken remains of his army from the 
 Danube ; but it was without concert or support ; 
 and had left no other consequence than an in- 
 
 * It is described as being only fifteen stadia from the latter city.
 
 ROUTE TO TRIPOLITZA. 201 
 
 creased degree of that sullen and silent resent- 
 ment, with which they regard their oppressors. 
 If this liberation should eventually happen, the 
 Morea will probably be the first scene of change ; 
 and it is here therefore particularly interesting to 
 note the progress of opinion and public spirit. One 
 great obstacle to the attainment of freedom will be 
 the intriguing and jealous spirit of the Greeks them- 
 selves. Personal activity and talent can never be 
 wanting to this people ; but union of plan and means 
 will with more difficulty be attained. The restless 
 character of the ancient Greek republicans is not 
 wholly lost, though centuries of slavery have since 
 gone over their heads. 
 
 Our route from Argos was to Tripolitza, the 
 modern capital of this province, and situated nearly 
 in the centre of the peninsula. The cold became 
 now each day more severe. At Argos, on the 26th 
 of January, the thermometer, at eight a. m. y was at 
 29°, and we found ice a third of an inch in thick- 
 ness, which a single night had produced. Under 
 these unlucky auspices we began the ascent of the 
 mountains into Arcadia ; leaving to the left the still 
 marshy plain of Lerna, well known as the scene 
 of one of the Herculean labours, and the place 
 where the Danaides murdered their husbands. We 
 soon reached the snow level, which at this time 
 was only two or three hundred feet above the sea, 
 and continued ascending for more than two hours 
 by a most difficult and fatiguing path, rendered 
 doubly so by the snow, which in many places lay 
 to the depth of three or lour feet upon the ground.
 
 202 HYDRA. 
 
 Here and there the track was almost entirely lost, 
 and we experienced difficulties which another day 
 of stormy weather would have converted into im- 
 possibility of crossing the ridge. The road reaches 
 a height, as I should conceive, of more than 2000 
 feet above the sea, leaving on the right hand 
 mountains much loftier and more precipitous. 
 From this elevated point there is a magnificent 
 view of the whole southern coast of the Argolis, as 
 well as of the rugged chain of hills occupying the 
 interior of this region. * In the distance, and near 
 the mouth of the gulf of Argolis, is seen the small 
 isle of Hydra ; a spot which, of late, has become 
 very interesting from the extent and importance of 
 its commerce. Only a few miles in circumference - r 
 with a surface so rocky as scarcely to yield the 
 common vegetables ; and even without any other 
 water than that collected in cisterns, this little 
 islet has an active and wealthy population of more 
 than 25,000 souls ; and a property in shipping, 
 amounting, it is said, to about 300 trading vessels, 
 many of them of large tonnage and well armed. I 
 have heard, and have some reason to believe the 
 statement, that there is a merchant in Hydra, 
 whose acquired property amounts to about a mil- 
 lion of dollars, and many others with a trading 
 capital, bearing proportion to this sum. The 
 nature of this commerce presents several peculiari- 
 ties worthy of notice, some of which I have stated 
 
 * From the outline of these hills, I should think it possible 
 there might be primitive rocks amongst them.
 
 I-1YDHA. ^203 
 
 below. It is perhaps most interesting as it shews 
 the disposition of the Greeks to active and enter- 
 prizing exertion, wherever the obstacles to their 
 progress are removed j attesting the part they 
 would bear in Europe should a favourable change 
 take place in the political situation of Turkey. * 
 
 * Hydra is the most remarkable of three or four isles in the 
 Archipelago, which have risen into extensive commercial im- 
 portance. It is worthy of notice that all these isles are small, 
 and for the most part of barren surface : had they been larger 
 or more fertile, the population would probably have been oc- 
 cupied in the growth, or trifling export of their produce, without 
 entering into the general carrying trade, which is now their 
 great source of wealth. The situation of Hydra has further led 
 to this superior extent of its commerce. Closely adjoining to a 
 fertile province, which abounds in grain and other articles of 
 export, but is subject to a local government, generally ignorant 
 and tyrannical ; it has been itself exempt from political op- 
 pression, by coming under the more feeble and dispersed autho- 
 rity of the Capitan Pasha. Its barrenness, too, might afford 
 protection to the growth of its commerce ; which now protects 
 itself, by enabling the inhabitants to purchase an easy exemp- 
 tion from a power almost too weak upon the seas to oppress 
 them. A small tribute of money, and of sailors for the Turkish 
 navy, secures the Hydriotes from any serious interruption to 
 their traffic, in as far as the Turkish government is concerned. 
 
 Their trade consists principally in the transport of the pro- 
 duce of this part of Turkey to other quarters of the Mediter- 
 ranean, and in bringing back to the Levant return cargoes of 
 colonial and manufactured articles. The chief export, espe- 
 cially of late, has been grain ; the scarcity of which for two or 
 three years in the west of Europe, has given an extraordinary 
 stimulus to this traffic. The Hydriote ships, many of them of 
 three, four, or five hundred tons, purchased their cargoes of 
 corn in Greece, Egypt, or Asia Minor ; much of it from the 
 Morea, Thessaly, or Macedonia; and earning it down the 
 Mediterranean, obtained a ready sale, frequently with a profit of 
 4-0 or 50 per cent, upon the cargo. The details of this trade 
 
 8
 
 204 ARCADIA. 
 
 Arrived at the summit of this lofty ridge, we 
 looked to the south over a series of rugged moun- 
 tain-chains, entirely covered with snow, affording 
 a winterly spectacle of the most splendid kind. I 
 had little expected, however, that Arcadia, which 
 fancy and poetry picture as the abode of spring, 
 of softness, and of beauty, would have presented 
 a scenery of this description ; nor did I, in the 
 instant of surprize, recollect that Pausanias speaks 
 of the cold dense air of Arcadia, and of the effect 
 it has in giving austerity to the manners of the in- 
 habitants. It must be noticed, however, that all 
 
 are curious. The capitalists of Hydra, most of whom have 
 originally been the captains of ships, reside in the isle, and 
 lend out their money to commercial adventurers, on the verbal 
 faith (for writings are seldom employed) of receiving a certain 
 interest, 10, 15, or even 20 per cent, upon the proceeds of the 
 voyage. The captains of the ships, who are generally principal 
 owners, are, for the most part, the responsible agents in these 
 transactions. It is the system of the Hydriotes, however, that 
 every person on board their ships, even to the cabin boy, should 
 have a share in the speculation ; either in lieu of wages, for 
 which the proportion is duly regulated ; or by the investment of 
 the savings which any one may have made. Every Hydriote 
 sailor is therefore more or less of a merchant, and is furnished 
 with the strongest motive to habitual industry, in the oppor- 
 tunity of thereby advancing his fortune in life. The ships of 
 the island have usually very numerous crews, who are reckoned 
 among the most skilful sailors of the Mediterranean. They all 
 retain a strong attachment to their native place, and seldom fail 
 to marry and establish themselves there, when they have acquired 
 any property by their adventures. The city of Hydra is built 
 rather in the Italian than Turkish manner, and contains many 
 excellent houses, furnished in a style even of luxury and 
 sumptuousness.
 
 ARCADIA. 205 
 
 we now saw before us did not belong to this region. 
 Beyond the ancient Mount Parthenius, we looked 
 forwards upon the rugged chains of Laconia, and 
 in the distance saw the great ridge of Taygetus 
 rising above all the rest. For a moment, the 
 wintry majesty of the landscape might almost have 
 compensated for the failure to the imagination. 
 
 Descending from the mountains, we entered a 
 chain of vallies, which better accorded with the 
 description of Arcadian scenery ; villages, situated 
 among woods, on the declivity of the hills ; shep- 
 herds attending their flocks with the genuine 
 Arcadian crook in their hands ; others sitting round 
 fires which they had kindled in caves or clefts of 
 the rocks. This transient glimpse, however, was 
 again lost, as we began the ascent of another chain 
 of hills, which may be said to support the central 
 plains of the Morea. The evening was approach- 
 ing, the cold each moment became more severe, 
 and the steep path of rocky stairs, by which we 
 ascended, was rendered almost a sheet of ice. We 
 reached the summit just after the sun had set, 
 and looked down upon the wide plains of Tri- 
 politza, so entirely covered with snow, that 
 scarcely a single object broke the uniformity of 
 surface. It was one of those wintry evenings, 
 when, with an intense severity of frost, there is a 
 clearness and even brilliancy of the atmosphere, 
 and a dee}) red glow of the horizon, which are 
 never equally seen at any other time of the year. 
 The thermometer, at this moment, was 8° below
 
 206 TRIPOLITZA. 
 
 the freezing point ; and it continued lowering as 
 we advanced. The plain of Tripolitza has a high 
 level above the sea ; and the snow was now lying 
 to the average depth of 18 inches over its surface. 
 After traversing it for some distance, the excessive 
 cold, and the impossibility of keeping the track, 
 compelled us to stop for the night at the village of 
 Steno ; where, in a wretched hovel, we huddled, 
 together with a family of twelve people, over the 
 embers of a wood fire. The cold, however, was 
 such, that even in this situation we could procure 
 no warmth. At seven the next morning, my ther- 
 mometer stood at 18° ; and I afterwards learnt at 
 Tripolitza, that at six o'clock it was as low as 16° 
 of Fahrenheit. 
 
 We continued our way to this city through the 
 snow ; actually crossing a considerable stream on 
 horseback over the ice. Arrived at Tripolitza, 
 we obtained a lodging in the house of Theodosius, 
 the Greek dragoman to the Pasha of the Morea ; 
 which might have been comfortable, but for a 
 degree of cold which neither the construction of 
 the Greek houses, nor the nature of the fuel the 
 Greeks employ, are at all fitted to obviate. At 
 3 p. m. this day, the thermometer was at 29°, and 
 it continued below the freezing point for the three 
 succeeding days, which we passed in this city ; the 
 wind being chiefly from the north and north-east. 
 It had been our design to have made an excursion 
 from Tripolitza to the site of the ancient Sparta, 
 which is little more than 30 miles distant ; but the
 
 TRIPOLITZA. 207 
 
 snow lay so deeply on the intervening country, 
 that the route was deemed impracticable, and no 
 one would consent to attend us. * A Tartar ar- 
 rived from Patras on the evening of the 29th, so 
 much affected by the frost, that I was obliged to 
 have recourse to active means to save one of his 
 feet. In short, the degree and continuance of the 
 cold were such, as I scarcely recollect to have ex- 
 perienced in England ; and this in the very centre 
 of Arcadia. The people of Tripolitza are inured 
 to severe winters ; but they referred back to a season 
 about thirty-five years before, as the only one afford- 
 ing a parallel to the present. The situation of the 
 city, on an elevated plain, surrounded by lofty chains 
 of mountains, explains the peculiar severity of the 
 weather here ; but this winter was in fact remarkable 
 in every part of Greece, as well as in the northern 
 parts of Europe, where it produced political con- 
 sequences of such extraordinary kind. Generally 
 speaking, however, I do not find any distinct proof 
 that the climate is more severe in this country now, 
 than it was in former times. Theophrastus (Hist. 
 Plant, lib. viii.) describes the cold as being usually 
 very great about 40 days after the winter solstice, 
 and we have numerous testimonies of the depth 
 
 * The remains of Sparta, though very inconsiderable, yet 
 suffice to shew the position of the ancient city ; the scenery sur- 
 rounding which, in the valley of the Eurotas, and the ridge of 
 Taygetus, is of a magnificent kind. The large town of Mistra, 
 containing about 1,500 houses, is situated in this district. The 
 valley of the Eurotas is very luxuriant in its produce of mul- 
 berry-trees, and a great part of the silk of the Morea is from 
 this part of the country.
 
 208 TRIPOLITZA. 
 
 and continuance of the snow on all the higher 
 lands of this region. 
 
 Tripolitza, which has been long the residence 
 of the Pashas of the Morea, is a large walled city, 
 containing about 15,000 people. The situation 
 of the place is level, excepting the eminence, on 
 which stands the fortress. A third or fourth part 
 only of the population is Turkish. The Seraglio 
 of the Pasha, near the northern extremity of the 
 city, forms an extensive groupe of buildings, with- 
 out regularity or splendour. We visited a Kiosk, 
 or pleasure-house, erected by Veli Pasha, near 
 the fortress ; one of those strange compounds of 
 ornament and deformity, which are so common in 
 Turkey ; yet, on the whole, displaying more taste 
 than is usual in these buildings. The interior of Tri- 
 politza is mean and irregular, and affords little to 
 interest the stranger. 
 
 Our host, Theodosius, was an excellent speci- 
 men of the modern Greek ; intelligent, well ac- 
 quainted with the world, managing, and fond of 
 intrigue. His situation, as well as that of all con- 
 nected with the Seraglio of Tripolitza, had latterly 
 become somewhat critical from the arrival of Veli 
 Pasha's successor in the Morea. Achmet Pasha, 
 the present governor of the province, is a Turk in 
 the 'strongest sense of the word ; a man of stern 
 unyielding mind, and bigotted to all the prejudices 
 of his nation. The portion of European refine- 
 ment which Veli had given to the court of Tri- 
 politza, was already lost to it j and though his sue-
 
 TRIPOLITZA. 209 
 
 cessor displayed less sensuality, and practised 
 fewer extortions, yet his cruel disposition had al- 
 ready shewn itself; and in the course of the first 
 five months of his government, more than sixty 
 people are said to have suffered death. An anec- 
 dote was told me in Zante, of two of his own ne- 
 phews being bow-strung, for visiting a bath which 
 he had ordered them not to frequent ; and there 
 was considerable authority given to this story, by 
 the source from which it came. Many began to 
 believe at this time, that the people of the pro- 
 vince would repent themselves of their eagerness 
 to get rid of Veli Pasha, in their dislike to his 
 more violent successor. The Moriote Greeks have 
 the character of being extremely quick and sus- 
 ceptible, and of interesting themselves in political 
 affairs more than most of their countrymen. This 
 is probably an effect of their having been more 
 lately subdued by the Turks ; of the large pro- 
 portion their own population bears in the province ; 
 and of those natural advantages of position which 
 may eventually aid them, both in regaining and 
 defending their freedom. I have already alluded 
 to the circumstances in the Greek national cha- 
 racter, which, while they might urge forward the 
 first steps towards a revolution, would certainly re- 
 tard the complete liberation of the country. 
 
 We became acquainted with several of the Greeks 
 of Tripolitza ; amongst others, with the physicians 
 Antonio Vitora, and Michael Kava ; the former a 
 Cephaloniote, the latter a native of Argos. Vitora 
 
 vol. n. v
 
 210 RUINS OF TEGEA. 
 
 was an agreeable man, who had studied at Padua ; 
 and there became the pupil and friend of Volta. 
 He had brought with him to Tripolitza, a Voltaic 
 pile, which of course excited much surprise and 
 admiration at this place. The library of Vitora, 
 which I examined, contained about 800 volumes ; 
 including some of the best English, French, and 
 Italian medical authors. 
 
 From Tripolitza, we contrived with difficulty to 
 walk four miles through the snow to visit the site 
 of Tegea. The remains of this once considerable 
 city are now very trifling ; and the ruins of a Greek 
 episcopal church upon the spot, barely serve to 
 shew some fragments of old magnificence, in the 
 broken columns and capitals, which have been in- 
 serted into its walls. I could not find here any in- 
 scriptions that are still legible. 
 
 The state of the weather at this time disap- 
 pointed all the plans of our journey through the 
 Morea j and instead of taking a road through the 
 southern and western parts of Arcadia, and along 
 the banks of the Alpheus, we were obliged to seek 
 the shortest, and now the only practicable route, 
 to Patras at the entrance of the gulf of Corinth, 
 with the design of embarking thence for Zante. 
 This journey also, though not affording so many 
 objects of classical repute, would have been very 
 interesting, in its display of Arcadian scenery, had 
 not the same circumstances of weather thrown a 
 wintry aspect over the whole country ; making the 
 landscape less that of Arcadia, than of the Pligh-
 
 DEPARTURE FROM TRIPOLITZA. 211 
 
 lands of Scotland at the same season. During the 
 three days occupied by our journey from Tripo- 
 litza to Patras, the thermometer scarcely ever rose 
 above 36°, and in the night fell considerably below 
 the freezing point. The snow covered not only the 
 mountains, but even the plains and vallies ; offering 
 in many places the most serious obstacles to our 
 progress. It is true, that the whole of this region, 
 even where it approaches the sea, is on a very high 
 level ; and every-where broken by mountain-ridges 
 and summits, which are among the most elevated 
 in Greece. But this winter was general in its in- 
 fluence ; and at Patras, on the morning of the 4th 
 of February, I saw the thermometer at 27°, though 
 this place is close to the sea, and with a westerly 
 exposure. 
 
 Seeing the country under these circumstances, 
 I can but state the outline of the route by which 
 we traversed it. We left Tripolitza on the 30th 
 of January ; attended by a Tartar, named Achmet, 
 and by an Arab, who was travelling to the western 
 coast of the Morea, and was obliged, from the pre- 
 sent state of the country, to take this route. Six 
 miles to the north of Tripolitza, we passed the site of 
 Mantinea, the scene of the celebrated battle which 
 lost Epaminondas to the Thebans. The vestiges of 
 the city are very distinct, in the outline of the an- 
 cient walls, and in the ruins of the theatre, which 
 was of considerable size. 
 
 From Mantinea, we took a north-west route to 
 
 the village of Lcbedi, 15 miles from Tripolitza, 
 
 p 2
 
 212 ROUTE TO PATRAS. 
 
 where we passed the night. From this point the 
 views towards the north were of the most mag- 
 nificent kind : beneath us, the deep vallies and lake 
 of Orchomenos j and beyond, successive ridges of 
 mountains ; rising in the distance into various lofty 
 summits, the most conspicuous of which was the 
 Mount Cyllene of the ancients, fabled as the spot 
 where Mercury descended from heaven. This 
 mountain ' is the highest of the Peloponnesus, and 
 may be regarded as one of the most elevated points 
 in Greece. The scenery surrounding it is of the 
 finest kind, both in its magnitude and picturesque 
 character. 
 
 Another day's journey of about 30 miles brought 
 us to the village of Southena ; situated on the as- 
 cent of a mountain ridge, which forms the highest 
 point of level in the route between Tripolitza and 
 Patras. At intervals, during this part of our pro- 
 gress, we had glimpses of true Arcadian scenery, 
 amidst the general gloom of winter which sur- 
 rounded us. The vallies of the Ladon or Tragus, 
 and of the Aroanius, rivers which flow south-west 
 to join the Alpherls, afford landscapes rich in wood, 
 in water, and in cliff; and deriving additional 
 character from the situation of the villages, and 
 the appearance of th^ shepherds, conducting their 
 flocks along the skirts of the mountains. * The 
 
 * There are some geographical difficulties, as respects the 
 course of the Aroanius and the Erymanthus, in his delineation 
 of which D'Anville is hy no means accurate. The Tragus is
 
 ROUTE TO PATRA3. 218 
 
 country continues to be entirely calcareous ; the 
 rock a greyish white limestone, regularly stratified, 
 in some places with great inclination of the strata. 
 High among the cliffs, which line the valley of 
 of what may be presumed the Aroanius, stands 
 the Greek monastery of Spilio ; in a spot which 
 none but the most refined superstition could have 
 chosen for the abode of man. Ancient manu- 
 scripts, I believe, have been sought for here, but 
 without success. 
 
 From Southena, we crossed the mountain ridge, 
 already mentioned, to Kalavrita ; a large town 
 singularly situated in one of the deep ravines on 
 its northern side. The precipices and forests of 
 this ridge afford a scenery of the finest kind ; but 
 the passage over it was rendered so dangerous by 
 the depth of the snow, and the obscurity of the 
 track, and so unpleasant from the excessive cold, 
 that it was impossible to derive enjoyment from 
 any source. At Kalavrita, which is probably near 
 the site of the ancient Cynethae, we procured, fresh 
 horses, and pursued our journey over a hilly 
 country, covered at intervals with extensive forests 
 of oak and beech, to the valley of a considerable 
 river ; which, from the direction of its course to- 
 wards the gulf of Corinth, may perhaps be the 
 Cratliis or Selinus of antiquity. The geography 
 
 the river coming from the lake of Orchomenos. Like many 
 other Grecian rivers, and particularly those of the Peloponnesus, 
 •t flows for some distance under ground, alter leaving the lake. 
 
 I' 3
 
 214 ROUTE TO PATRAS. 
 
 of this part of Arcadia, however, is comparatively 
 little known, and requires much further elucidation. 
 
 The scenery along the course of this valley is ex- 
 tremely interesting. The forms of vast mountains 
 fill up all the openings towards the distant land- 
 scape j the hills immediately bordering on the val- 
 ley are lofty and abrupt, being formed of a cal- 
 careous conglomerate, which here and there has 
 been so decomposed, as to leave pinnacles of rock, 
 which resemble on a smaller scale those of Meteora. 
 Following the valley upwards for some miles, we as- 
 cended the hills among which some branches of 
 the river rise, to the solitary Khan of Gotzumeza, 
 where we passed the night. From this spot there is 
 a singular view towards the south and east, of suc- 
 cessive ridges of mountains, rising beyond each 
 other as far as the eye can reach. The arrangement 
 of the high land in Arcadia, seems to be some- 
 what different from that of the northern parts of 
 Greece. The mountains are more indiscriminately 
 crowded together, and not in general separated 
 by the same wide intervening plains as in Boeotia, 
 Thessaly, and Epirus. 
 
 We passed a miserable night at Gotzumeza ; the 
 thermometer several degrees below 32°, and the 
 wind coming in upon us through a thousand aper- 
 tures in the roof and walls. Another Tartar ar- 
 rived this evening from Tripolitza, severely bruised 
 by a fall from his horse. The two Tartars and the 
 Arab took up their abode for the night in the same 
 room with us, all crouching together on the ground 
 before the embers of the fire.
 
 ROUTE TO PATRAS. 215 
 
 From this Khan to Patras is eighteen miles, the 
 intervening country rendered picturesque by the 
 woods which cover its mountains and vallies. The 
 exit from the lofty region, which forms all the 
 interior of the Peloponnesus, affords one of the 
 finest spectacles that can be conceived, in the sud- 
 denness with which a vast landscape is opened out 
 before the eye. The fertile plains of Patras are spread 
 immediately beneath, stretching to the shores of the 
 gulf, which, from the contracted passage between 
 the Rhium and Anti-rhium, gradually expands be- 
 tween the receding coasts of the Peloponnesus and 
 iEtolia. The splendid promontories ofCalydonand 
 Taphiasus ; the mouths of the Evenus and Achelous ; 
 the modern castle and city of Lepanto, representing 
 the ancient Naupactus ; the expansion of the gulf of 
 Corinth underneath the mountains of Locris Ozolia, 
 withjnany other objects of classical note, are seen in 
 front of the landscape : the mountains of Acarna- 
 nia, of Cephalonia, and Ithaca appear in the more 
 remote distance. Till descending to the plains of 
 Patras I had no sufficient idea of the great elevation 
 on which we had been travelling for some days past. 
 Our descent, which was very steep, occupied more 
 than an hour, and on a moderate estimate could 
 not have been less than 1500 feet, though we ap- 
 proached the edge of the declivity along a valley. 
 The rocks among which we passed, exhibited in 
 their section a very fine specimen of the altern- 
 ation of layers of limestone and flint formerly 
 described. 
 
 p i
 
 216 PATRAS. 
 
 Patras is a town of some consequence, containing 
 nearly 10,000 inhabitants, and having a consider- 
 able commerce in currants, grain, and oil, the pro- 
 duce of its own luxuriant plains. The article of 
 currants is the most important, the annual export 
 from this district and the adjoihing one of Vostitza 
 amounting to more than 5,000,000 lbs. The most 
 remarkable object in the town is the castle, which 
 however has greatly suffered from an explosion of 
 gunpowder three or four years ago. A small chapel 
 in the environs, dedicated to St. George, serves to 
 commemorate the assistance this saint visibly af- 
 forded to Don John of Austria, in the celebrated 
 naval battle of Lepanto, which took place near 
 Patras in 1571. 
 
 Several European consuls reside at Patras. We 
 were hospitably lodged by M. Strani, the English 
 consul, at whose house we found Mr. Craven 
 and Sir W. Gell, awaiting an opportunity of em- 
 barking for Zante. The detention arose chiefly 
 from an apprehension of the pirates, who at this 
 time, notwithstanding the vicinity of the Ionian 
 Isles, infested the coast of the Morea and the 
 entrance of the gulf of Corinth ; availing them- 
 selves of French licences to afford a sort of autho- 
 rity to their depredations. We made an arrange- 
 ment with these gentlemen, to accompany them 
 in the passage to Zante. A large decked boat was 
 procured : we left Patras at noon on the 4th of 
 February, with a wind from the north-east, which 
 towards evening blew so violently that we reached
 
 ARRIVAL AT ZANTE. 217 
 
 the harbour of Zante the same night. Some fears 
 of a quarantine were carried with us, but on our 
 arrival it was matter of much satisfaction to find 
 that it had been taken off two days before. 
 
 The journey through the Peloponnesus, just re- 
 lated, was unfortunate beyond calculation in all 
 the circumstances attending it. To a certain 
 extent I afterwards retrieved this misfortune by an 
 excursion I made in the month of May over the 
 plains of* the ancient Elis, and along the beautiful 
 banks of the Alpheus, to the site of the celebrated 
 Olympia. At this time the country was glowing 
 with beauty ; and though the severity of the winter 
 still shewed itself in the snows covering the mountain 
 summits, all beneath was true Arcadian scenery ; 
 and might have been taken in its inhabitants > 
 as well as in its natural features, to fill up every* 
 picture which the fancy draws of this region.
 
 218 
 
 CHAP. .XXI. 
 
 DEPARTURE ON A SECOND JOURNEY INTO ALBANIA. — LAND- 
 ING AT PRETESA. INTERVIEW WITH ALI PASHA. NAR- 
 RATIVE OF AN EXCURSION TO THE UPPER PART OF THE 
 
 GULF OF ARTA. ALI PASHA AMONG THE RUINS OF 
 
 NICOPOLIS. DEPARTURE FOR IOANNINA BY THE ROUTE 
 
 OF SULI. LURO. ENTRANCE AMONG THE SULI MOUN- 
 TAINS. SERAGLIO OF SULI. WAR OF ALI PASHA WITH 
 
 THE SULIOTES. 
 
 1 he promise I had given to Ali Pasha of returning 
 for a short time to see him before I quitted Tur- 
 key, still remained to be fulfilled. The intention 
 of fulfilling it was confirmed by letters which had 
 arrived in the interval at Zante, in which the 
 Vizier strongly expressed his desire of seeing me 
 again. As at this time I proposed to limit my 
 second visit to Albania almost exclusively to this 
 object, it was satisfactory to me to learn that he 
 still continued at Prevesa, where he had passed the 
 whole of December and January with his court, 
 and attended by some thousands of his Albanian 
 soldiers. I formed my plan then for setting out 
 thither, while my friend, whose affairs called him 
 to Sicily, proposed to embark in the earliest packet 
 for that island. A fortnight, however, intervened 
 before any opportunity occurred of departure, dur-
 
 PASSAGE TO PREVESA. 219 
 
 ing which time I made the short excursion to 
 Cephalonia, of which a relation has been given in 
 a preceding part of this volume. 
 
 The severity of this winter in the Ionian Isles 
 was proportional to that we had already experienced 
 on the continent of Greece. The snow had lain 
 some time in the streets of Zante ; and in Cephalo- 
 nia, the lagoon at the upper part of the gulf of 
 Argostoli had been frozen over a great part of its 
 extent. All the upper ridges of the Black Moun- 
 tain of Cephalonia were still completely covered 
 with snow. 
 
 I sailed from Zante on the 17th of February, and 
 arrived at Santa Maura, after a passage of two days. 
 From thence I crossed over to Prevesa, and landed 
 here amidst the crowd of Albanian soldiers who at 
 this time occupied every avenue and corner of the 
 town. The Vizier had his residence in the old Se- 
 raglio of Prevesa, the new building being still not 
 prepared for his reception. My arrival was speedily 
 made known to him, and he immediately sent 
 down the physician Lucas to express his gratifica- 
 tion on my return, and his desire of seeing me at 
 the Seraglio. He appointed me at the same time 
 a lodging in the house of Panagiotaki, the principal 
 Greek merchant now remaining at Prevesa, after 
 the many changes that have occurred in the popu- 
 lation and fortunes of the place. I was fortunate 
 in obtaining such a place of abode, at a moment 
 when every dwelling of the town was crowded to 
 excess. The Vizier had brought down with him
 
 220 PREVESA. 
 
 from Ioannina many of his ministers and principal 
 officers, and I found Sakallarius and Metaxa, as 
 well as Lucas, in medical attendance upon him. 
 His residence at Prevesa had now, as on former 
 occasions, been marked by various traits of despotic 
 severity ; and anecdotes were given me afterwards 
 of different Greek residents of the place, who were 
 sent up to Ioannina as prisoners, to compel them to 
 the payment of sums of money demanded by the 
 Vizier. 
 
 In my first interview with Ali Pasha he received 
 me in the most friendly manner, expressing warmly 
 his satisfaction in seeing me again, and saying at 
 the same time that he had never doubted my ad- 
 herence to the promise I had given. He asked 
 many and minute questions regarding my journey, 
 my residence at Larissa, and the health of Veli 
 Pasha. One or two inquiries about Salonica at- 
 tracted my notice by their tone and manner, as if 
 something lay concealed beneath them of which 
 he would not openly speak. He alluded to the 
 letters I had written to him from Larissa and 
 Athens, and appeared to have been gratified by 
 them. We afterwards conversed respecting his 
 health. I found that he was better on the whole 
 than when I quitted Ioannina, and that lie had 
 adopted some of the precautionary means I then 
 recommended. He inquired as to my future plans, 
 and again repeated his desire that I would continue 
 with him as his physician. He hoped, at least, that 
 as I was now in Albania I would remain some time
 
 EXCURSION UP THE GULF. 221 
 
 longer in this country ; and promised me every 
 facility I could wish for in travelling, and in visiting 
 what I might consider worthy of examination. 
 
 I mentioned to the Vizier my desire of making 
 an excursion to the upper part of the gulf of 
 Arta along its southern shores ; with the view of 
 examining some ruins of which I had heard in this 
 situation. He assented immediately to the project, 
 and ordered two of his soldiers, who were w r ell ac- 
 quainted with this part of the country, to attend me 
 as guards. 
 
 1 set out upon this excursion on the evening of the 
 same day, a boat having been appointed to convey 
 me up the gulf. My two Albanian guards, Kap- 
 samouniand Fissouki, were men of fine appearance, 
 but with a degree of untamed ferocity of manner, 
 which I have seldom seen surpassed. Their amuse- 
 ment, as we proceeded up the gulf, was in firing 
 shot at the fishermen's boats ; chiefly, as it would 
 seem, to shew their dexterity in the use of the 
 fusil. In one or two instances, when the fisher- 
 men fled in dismay, they took deliberate aim at 
 the men themselves, accompanying this with the 
 common opprobrious epithet of Keratas* and a 
 thousand other phrases of bitter import. I had 
 difficulty in preventing a still more savage use of 
 their power, when stopping at different hamlets on 
 the shores of the gulf; and it was only by alleging 
 the authority of Ali Pasha that I could put a check 
 to their rude violence. 
 
 * The meaning of this term, which is universally employed in 
 Greece, will be obvious in its derivation.
 
 222 GULF OF ARTA. 
 
 I stopped a short time at Vonitza ; the situation 
 of which, on an inlet of the gulf, points it out as 
 the site of the ancient Limnaea. Beyond this place 
 the shores are rendered extremely beautiful by the 
 alternation of promontories and bays ; the richly 
 wooded surface rising behind towards a lofty moun- 
 tain groupe, which occupies the central part of 
 Acarnania. From the woods lining these shores is 
 procured a great part of the timber exported from 
 the gulf ; and several Maltese vessels were at this 
 time lying here to take in their cargoes. Some of 
 the oak timber is of size sufficient for all the pur- 
 poses of ship-building, but much small wood also is 
 cut down for exportation. 
 
 These forests, on the shores of the gulf, have 
 long been the resort of banditti, and the active 
 police of Ali Pasha has scarcely yet succeeded in 
 effecting their annihilation. The most vigorous 
 efforts, however, have been made with this object, 
 and Albanian soldiers are stationed at various 
 points on the coast to assist in accomplishing it. 
 While waiting for a change of wind in a small bay 
 to the east of Vonitza, my guards and Greek ser- 
 vant went up to a hamlet, a mile from the shore, to 
 seek for provisions, leaving me in the boat. During 
 their absence, a band of six Albanian soldiers came 
 down to the beach, and imperiously inquired what 
 I was doing there, or something to this effect. I 
 was alone, and unable to satisfy them, but for- 
 tunately found the pipe of Kapsamouni, which had 
 been left in the boat ; and the leader of the band,
 
 GULF OF ARTA. 223 
 
 on examining it, cried out immediately, that it be- 
 longed to his brother. On this discovery they dis- 
 persed in various directions through the wood, and 
 firing their fusils, soon collected my guards, as well 
 as several other Albanians. The two brothers, thus 
 accidentally brought together, cordially saluted 
 each other : a large fire was kindled in the wood, 
 a goat killed, and instantly spitted whole upon a 
 wooden pole, and the party seated themselves on 
 the earth around this rude kitchen apparatus. The 
 dusk of the evening had now come on ; the fire 
 threw a singular light on the stern countenances 
 and forms of the Albanians, who at intervals were 
 joined by others of their comrades from amidst the 
 depth of the woods. Such a scene on the shores 
 of Acarnania was not devoid of interest. The goat 
 being roasted, it was cut, or rather torn into frag- 
 ments, and the party made a rude and hasty feast 
 around the fire. This finished, I re-embarked on the 
 gulf with my two guards, the remainder of the 
 party firing their fusils over our heads as a compli- 
 ment on our departure. 
 
 The gulf at its upper extremity, about 30 miles 
 from the mouth, forks into two branches, with a 
 low peninsula between. We took the southern 
 branch, and proceeded to its highest point, where 
 it circles round in the form of a beautiful bay, 
 underneath the wooded hills which rise from the 
 water's edge. On one of these hills which forms 
 an insulated ridge running back in a south-east 
 direction from the bay, arc situated the ruins of the
 
 224 RUINS OF ANCIENT CITY. 
 
 ancient city, which it was one of the principal 
 objects of my excursion to examine. The walls, 
 forming the principal object in these ruins, skirt 
 along nearly the whole extent of the ridge ; inclu- 
 ding an irregular oblong area, about a mile in its 
 greatest length, but of much smaller breadth. The 
 structure of these walls is Cyclopian : they are of 
 great thickness ; and on the eastern side, where 
 built with most regularity, are still perfect to the 
 height of more than twenty feet. Two gates of 
 the city are distinctly visible ; that on the western 
 side, which appears to have been the principal, is 
 approached by a series of steps, of great breadth, 
 and extremely well constructed. The space in- 
 cluded within the walls is thickly overgrown with 
 trees and brush-wood. I traversed it in various 
 directions, but without being able to discover any 
 inscription, or other remains than those of dilapi- 
 dated walls. 
 
 From the southern extremity of the hill, at the 
 highest point of the ruins, is a fine view of the 
 long valley through which lies the route from the 
 head of the gulf of Arta to Mesalongia, near the 
 mouth of the Aspro-potami ; a distance of between 
 40 and 50 miles. A lake, the name of which I 
 believe to be Agrilos, spreads its waters along this val- 
 ley for a length of about six miles, but is so narrow 
 as to resemble a broad river. A Greek monastery 
 stands near its northern extremity, and a village, 
 called Ambracia, on the ascent of the hill above 
 this building. We may perhaps suppose this village
 
 "RUINS OF ANCIENT CITY. 225 
 
 to have been settled originally from Ambracia, since 
 it is not possible that the city itself should have 
 been situated on this part of the gulf. Though 
 1 cannot venture to speak with certainty, yet I am 
 led to believe that the ruins just described may be 
 those of Stratus, one of the ^Etolian cities men- 
 tioned by Thucydides in his history of the Pelopon- 
 nesian war, and again by Polybius and Livy, in 
 their account of the wars between the Romans 
 and Macedonian kings. The situation of these 
 ruins corresponds well with that which they assign 
 to Stratus, and is not equally applicable to any 
 other ancient city of this district. * 
 
 There is no apparent stream from the lake of 
 Agrilos into the gulf of Arta, though in M. 
 D'Anville's map, (and others have copied from 
 him,) the river Inachus coming from Argos of 
 Amphilochia, is represented as entering the gulf 
 at this point. The country stretching eastwards 
 to the Aspro-potami is high and rugged, but 
 may be traversed by a day's journey from the 
 
 * Livy speaks of Stratus as on the Ambracian gulf, in the 
 nearest point to the river Achelous. The same appears from a 
 passage in Polybius, lib. v. c. 2. Strabo (lib. x.) speaks of* there 
 being a carriage of 200 stadia, from Stratus to the Achelous ; 
 vvhicli accords with the length of the journey between the gulf 
 of Arta and this river. I am not aware that any traveller has 
 fixed the exact situation of Thermum; a place described by Po- 
 lybius, in the passage quoted above, as the citadel of /Etolia, and 
 where there was a temple containing 2000 statues. Stratus has 
 been generally placed on the Achelous, and Argos of Amphilo- 
 chia in the situation of the ruins described above; but on the 
 whole I am disposed to think that this cannot be correct. 
 VOL. II. o
 
 226 • PREVESA. 
 
 Palaio-Kastro, as the ruins of this ancient city are 
 termed. 
 
 The southern coast of the gulf of Arta, and 
 probably all the hills in the interior of Acarnania, 
 belong to the great calcareous formation of Greece. 
 No peculiarity appeared in the rocks which I saw 
 during this short excursion. 
 
 I made a rapid passage down the gulf of Arta 
 to Prevesa. The morning after my return, I passed 
 some time with the Vizier; who, among othe*r 
 topics of conversation, enquired my opinion as to 
 the desirableness of erecting a new fortress on the 
 site of the ruins I had just visited. The position, 
 he well remarked, was an important one, both for 
 the general defence of the country, and in refer- 
 ence to the extinction of the robbers who infest 
 this province. At this interview, he again urged 
 me so strongly to go up the country a second time 
 to Ioannina, for which city he was himself setting 
 out in a few days, that I acceded to his wish ; con- 
 necting with this plan, the further scheme of travel- 
 ling through some parts of Albania, which had 
 hitherto been seldom visited ; and particularly the 
 mountainous region of Suli, which has lately ac- 
 quired celebrity by the long resistance its natives 
 opposed to the power of Ali Pasha. Besides the 
 expectation of much extraordinary scenery among 
 these mountains, I was further directed to this scheme 
 by the desire of tracing the course of the ancient 
 Acheron ; which river, I was persuaded, must be 
 looked for in this region, and not in the vicinity of
 
 VISIT TO NICOPOLIS* 9%7 
 
 the lake of Ioannina. It was fixed then at this 
 time, that I should be provided with an escort to 
 convey me to Ioannina, by the route of the Suli 
 mountains and Paramithia; with any other deviation 
 1 might be inclined to make from this road. The 
 Vizier interested himself in the scheme of the 
 journey ; and sketched out in a rude manner, on 
 paper, the relative situation of different objects 
 which he conceived to be worthy of observation. 
 
 Two days still elapsed before I quitted Prevesa. 
 On the morning of the 26th, I accompanied the 
 Vizier, who was attended also by some hundreds 
 of his guards, to the ruins of Nicopolis. He went 
 thither to examine some excavations he had ordered 
 to be made, with a view to the discovery of mar- 
 bles, coins, or other relics of the ancient city; 
 influenced probably in this, by the report of the 
 profitable research which had been recently carried 
 on in the Morea, during Veli Pasha's government 
 of that province. I rode from Prevesa to Nicopolis 
 in company with an officer of the Vizier's, and on 
 a horse splendidly accoutred, which Ali Pasha had 
 sent me for the purpose. When arrived amidst 
 the ruins, I found the Vizier sitting on a crimson 
 velvet couch which was placed on the ground, near 
 the great transverse wall of the city, and above an 
 excavation which had just been made. He was 
 surrounded by his Albanian guards, with several 
 of his ministers and secretaries. He desired me to 
 sit near him, and asked my opinion as to the 
 research which was going on. The spot was evi* 
 
 Q c 2
 
 228 VISIT TO NICOPOLIS* 
 
 deiltly not favourable, and I could not give him 
 any encouragement as to the probable results. I 
 found him acquainted, generally, with the fact that 
 Nicopolis was founded to commemorate a naval 
 victory near Prevesa ; but of the period and other 
 circumstances he was wholly ignorant. 
 
 After some conversation, he desired me to point 
 out the places I regarded as more likely to lead to 
 discovery. Having explained to him that the 
 probable value of research here was less than in a 
 Greek city, I went with Lucas and two soldiers ; 
 and after some examination fixed upon two or three 
 spots, where it seemed to me that excavations might 
 be made with some likelihood of success. Return- 
 ing to the Vizier, I found that he had just dined 
 among the ruins, at his usual hour of 12 o'clock ; 
 the dishes for this purpose having been brought 
 out from Prevesa. He was then sitting under a 
 broken arch, with some of his secretaries around 
 him, occupied in receiving petitions and administer- 
 ing justice. Ali Pasha, in this situation, among 
 the ruins of the ancient city of Augustus, was a 
 spectacle not a little strange and curious in its kind. 
 After remaining an hour or two longer on the spot, 
 he returned in his carriage to Prevesa ; some of his 
 guards attending him on horseback ; the greater 
 number running by the side of the carriage, 
 with a rapidity for which the Albanians are very 
 remarkable. All such athletic exertions are studi- 
 ously encouraged by Ali Pasha ; who is well aware 
 of the value of that hardihood of person and
 
 ROUTE TO THE MOUNTAINS OF SULI. 229 
 
 habits which marks the character of his Albanian 
 soldiery. 
 
 On the morning of the 1st of March, I set out 
 on my journey for the mountains of Suli. The 
 Vizier appointed three guards to attend me ; two 
 of them Mussulman Albanians, and officers in his 
 army; the third a Christian, but of inferior rank. 
 Tachir Aga, one of the former, was son of the com- 
 mandant of the Suli fortresses ; the other, named 
 Chirko, a native of Paramithia. The Vizier sent 
 me likewise one of his own horses for my journey ; 
 a matter rather of shew than of use, since it was 
 impossible to leave my attendants, who were all 
 mounted on the horses of the post. The splendid 
 trappings, with which it was adorned, I soon found 
 it convenient to exchange for my own simpler and 
 more convenient travelling apparatus. 
 
 My first day's stage was only to the village of 
 Luro, about twelve miles to the north of Prevesa; 
 the intervening country variously broken by low 
 hills, tolerably well wooded, and richly cultivated. 
 The houses in Luro are all built of reeds and mud. 
 Near the town flows the river of Luro; which, rising 
 at once from a large fountain in the mountains at 
 Aios-Georgios, to the west of the road between 
 Arta and Ioannina, enters the gulf of Arta 
 through the marshes in the vicinity of Salaora. In 
 two or three different situations near Lino, are the 
 ruins of towns or fortresses, the vestiges of ancient 
 Bpirus, and of some of the many places in this 
 
 Q 3
 
 230 ROUTE TO THE MOUNTAINS OF SULI. 
 
 country, which decayed or were destroyed during 
 the Roman wars here. 
 
 After sleeping on the earthen floor of a cottage, 
 I continued my journey towards the great fortress 
 of Suli, distant about twenty-two miles from Luro. 
 My escort was now increased by two other Albanian 
 soldiers, whom Tachir Aga ordered to attend us 
 through the mountains. Our route for some miles 
 was through a broken irregular country, thickly 
 covered with wood. After this, we entered an 
 open valley, stretching in a northerly direction for 
 ten miles ; . a stream descending through it to join 
 the river of Luro. The valley is well cultivated, 
 chiefly with maize ; and large flocks of sheep were 
 feeding on the skirts of the hills which form its 
 boundary. Here, as every-where else in Greece, I 
 found a good deal of caution to be necessary in 
 passing these flocks, from the fierceness of the large 
 dogs attending them ; and the same caution is re- 
 quired, especially in Albania, in approaching at 
 night any cottage where these animals are kept. 
 This I speak from experience, having three times 
 had my clothes torn by them ; and once, when I 
 had no great coat on, not without much risk of 
 further injury. These shepherd's dogs of Greece 
 are probably the lineal descendants of the Molossian 
 dogs, celebrated in former times for their strength 
 and ferocity. — iElian calls them Svprnwluloi xwwv, and 
 this epithet answers well to their character at the 
 present time. 
 
 Passing a low ridge beyond the valley just de-
 
 KIVER OF SULI. £31 
 
 scribed, I came to the banks of a stream running 
 in an opposite direction, from south to north, to 
 join the river of Suli. Two miles beyond, I reached 
 this river, which descending in a south-west course, 
 through a valley of considerable width, makes at 
 this place a sudden and remarkable bend towards 
 the north, and enters by a narrow pass the wild and 
 magnificent region of Suli. The landscape here is 
 singularly fine ; and the sudden change in the cha- 
 racter of the scenery of very extraordinary kind. 
 The river of Suli rises by different streams in the 
 country to the west of Cinque Pozzi ; passes the 
 village of Sestron or Sestroni, which gives name to 
 a part of its course; and in the valley just alluded 
 to, flows underneath a high ridge of mountain 
 called Valdunesi. From the place where I reached 
 its banks, to the castle of Suli and the plains of 
 Paramithia, the scenery along its course is altoge- 
 ther more singular than any other I have seen in 
 Greece ; striking as this country is in all its natu- 
 ral features. 
 
 Crossing the river by a deep ford, where it 
 makes this sudden turn to the north, I ascended 
 the mountain on the eastern side of the Pass or 
 chasm, which it now enters ; and which is so much 
 contracted by opposing cliffs, to the height of some 
 hundred feet above the stream, that no access is 
 possible, except along the higher ledges of its 
 mountain-boundary. The ascent was one of ex- 
 treme difficulty, and some danger. Skirting under 
 the summit of the mountain, upon narrow and 
 
 q 4
 
 232 RIVER OF SULI 
 
 broken ledges of rock, I came to a spot where the 
 interior of this profound chasm opened suddenly 
 before me ; vast and almost perpendicular precipices 
 conducting the eye downwards to the dark line, 
 which the river forms in flowing beneath. The 
 view from this place I have never seen surpassed 
 in grandeur ; if grandeur indeed be a word which 
 expresses the peculiarity of the scenery ; not only 
 its magnitude, but also the boldness and abruptness 
 of all its forms ; and a sort of sombre depth and 
 obscurity in its features, to which it would not be 
 easy to find a parallel. In one view you may 
 trace the progress of the river for six or seven 
 miles, between mountains, some of which are up- 
 wards of 3000 feet in height ; their precipitous sides 
 beginning to rise even from the edge of the water ; 
 their projecting cliffs and ledges covered with small 
 oaks and brush- wood ; and higher up, where they 
 recede further from the perpendicular line, retain- 
 ing the same sombre character from the dark 
 thickets and rows of pines, which appear at inter- 
 vals among the rocks. 
 
 When first looking down into this great chasm, 
 the impression came upon me, that this river must 
 assuredly be the real Acheron of the ancients ; 
 though I had the geographer Meletius in my hand, 
 who, with other writers, gives this name to the mo- 
 dern Kalama, a river further to the north. My 
 first impression, however, finds a decisive confirm- 
 ation in the testimony of ancient authors ; whose 
 evidence on the subject is so distinct, that it is
 
 THE ACHERON OF THE ANCIENTS. 0,33 
 
 somewhat surprising it should have been mistaken. 
 This evidence indeed chiefly relates to the mouth 
 of the river, and to the Acherusian lake, which is 
 near its entrance into the sea ; but it is not less sa- 
 tisfactory on this account ; and we may fairly con- 
 clude that there was some metaphorical relation be- 
 tween the extraordinary scenery of this stream, as 
 it passes through the mountains of Suli, and the 
 picture of the infernal regions adopted by ancient 
 mythology. It would be needless to cite all the 
 passages, which bear upon this geographical point. 
 One in Thucydides, considering the accuracy of 
 this writer, would alone perhaps be sufficient; 
 where, in describing the voyage of the Athenian 
 fleet from Leucadia to Corcyra, he points out dis- 
 tinctly the relative situation of the mouth of the 
 Acheron ; the Acherusian lake, through which this 
 river flows when near the sea ; the promontory of 
 the Cheimerium ; and the mouth of the Thyamis, 
 now the Kalama, further to the north. * Different 
 passages in Herodotus, Strabo, Ptolemy, and other 
 writers, concur entirely on this subject t ; and it is 
 
 * Thucyd. lib. i. 46. 
 
 f Herodotus more than once speaks of the Acheron as flow- 
 ing through Thesprotia ; a description which is not entirely ap- 
 plicable to the modern Kalama. Strabo, following the line of 
 the coast southwards, describes in succession to the small isles 
 of Sybota, and the Cheimerium promontory, the r*wo»? Xi/umv, 
 
 i»S on EjubaAXfj o A^i^udi, wola/xo? gsuiv tx. ?*; A^FfycriX? X^ynj, xa* 
 d£^o/xE»o," toA»«{ Tvolxfjujc, wj-| xat ■yXuxar/civ to» koX-tov. — The port 
 Glykys, here mentioned, retains its name to the present time. 
 The enumeration given by Ptolemy of the places on this coast, 
 entirely corresponds with the same relative situation of the
 
 234 RIVER OF SULI * 
 
 interesting to notice, that the small isles of Sybota, 
 and the port called Glykys, at the mouth of the 
 Acheron, both of which are important in the de- 
 scription of these authors, actually retain the same 
 names to the present day; a kind of evidence 
 more decisive than could have been expected in 
 a case of this nature. It is an additional proof of 
 the river of Suli being the true Acheron, that there 
 is within less than a mile of its mouth, a small lake, 
 or expanse of the river, corresponding well in situ- 
 ation with the A^ggso-ia a»|u,v>} of Thucydides * ; while, 
 in the course of the Kalama, I am not aware of 
 there being any lake but that of Tzerovina, which 
 is far distant from the coast, and forms in fact one 
 of the sources of the river. This does not better 
 accord with the Acherusian pool, than the lake of 
 Ioannina, which some have supposed to represent 
 it ; and there can be little doubt that the Kalama 
 is the Thyamis, and not the Acheron of antiquity. 
 It is well known that the names of Aeherusia 
 and Acheron were not limited to Epirus; but it 
 appears certain that the lake and river of this re- 
 gion were the most celebrated, and perhaps the 
 most anciently known in their connection with my- 
 
 Acheron ; and Eustathius, in his commentary on the 10th book 
 of the Odyssey, renders it evident that the river of Suli repre- 
 sents this celebrated stream, falling into the sea at the port 
 Glykys. 
 
 * I was not at this spot, but I learn from Psalida, that the 
 lake is about three miles long, and a mile and half in breadth* 
 not very deep, and surrounded by hills of small elevation.
 
 THE ACHERON OF THE ANCIENTS. 235 
 
 thology. * The story of Pirithous, Theseus, and 
 Hercules, is doubtless related to this spot, as proved 
 by all the geographical circumstances of the narra- 
 tive ; and probably also, that of the descent of 
 Orpheus into hell. I enquired, when at Suli, re- 
 specting the quality of the waters of the river. 
 It was told me, that at particular times they were 
 remarkable for an offensive taste and odour ; but 
 as I could not myself perceive this, I do not ven- 
 ture to cite it as a further proof of the identity of 
 this stream, with the Acheron. The evidence, 
 however, already stated, was sufficient to give me 
 the fullest assurance on the subject ; and to render 
 every circumstance about this district very inte- 
 resting both to the eye and the imagination, t 
 
 I continued my route along the extraordinary 
 valley I have described, following a rugged path 
 which winds among the rocks, forming its eastern 
 barrier, at the height probably of 600 or 700 feet 
 above the bed of the river. When advanced about 
 four miles within the chasm, we turned suddenly to 
 the right, up a deep recess among the mountains. 
 
 * Pausanias (lib. ii. p. 196.) mentions an Acherusia near Co- 
 rinth ; and DioJorus Siculus (lib. i. 86.) speaks of one in Egypt, 
 in the neighbourhood of the Catacombs. It appears from Strabo, 
 that there was an Acheron in Elis, and we learn from Pomponius 
 Mela, (lib. i. c. 19.) of another river of this name in Phrygia. 
 That of Italy is well known. 
 
 f Some Romaic writers have conjectured that Suli may be 
 the locality of the Selloi of Homer and the ancient geographers. 
 This supposition, however, does not seem to rest on any other 
 ground than the similarity of name.
 
 236 SERAGLIO OF SULI. 
 
 From this place there seems to be no egress ; vast 
 pine-covered precipices meet the eye on every side, 
 and no one point seems accessible beyond the spot 
 where you stand at the moment. A second sudden 
 turn brought me to an ascending cork-screw path, 
 so steep and rugged, that it was with infinite diffi- 
 culty the luggage-horses could gain the summit. 
 This circuit is necessary from the increasing abrupt- 
 ness of the chasm through which the river flows, as 
 it approaches the central part of Suli. From the 
 lofty point I had now attained, the scenery of this 
 central region opened out in a very magnificent 
 manner. The insulated mountain-heights, on 
 which stand the fortresses of Suli, before seen at 
 intervals through the deep Pass by which we had 
 been approaching them, were now directly in front 
 of the landscape ; the river flowing in its profound 
 channel underneath, but here entirely concealed 
 from view. We hastened our progress towards the 
 principal of these fortresses ; and Tachir Aga, with 
 another soldier, went forward to announce our ap- 
 proach to his father the commandant. 
 
 While approaching the great fortress, or Seraglio 
 of Suli, we passed through two of the Suliote vil- 
 lages, now completely ruined and without inhabi- 
 tants ; many of the houses thrown down, others 
 destroyed by fire. The Kako Suli, as the most 
 northerly of these villages was called, contained 
 formerly some hundred habitations, all of which 
 are now in rains. The ascent to the insulated hill, 
 on which are placed the Seraglio, and two other of
 
 MOUCTAR AGA.< — SULIOTES. 237 
 
 the fortresses built by AH Pasha for the security of 
 the place, isgust beyond this ruined village. On my 
 entrance into the area of the Seraglio, I was com- 
 plimented by a salute of four cannon, and a volley 
 of small arms: — the reverberation of the sound from 
 the neighbouring mountains was wonderfully fine. 
 I was met at the foot of the great stairs by Mouctar 
 Aga, the commandant ; and conducted through two 
 long galleries, into a large apartment in which the 
 Vizier resided, during two visits he has made to 
 Suli. Mouctar Aga is a fine looking man, be- 
 tween 50 and 60 ; of pleasing manners and much 
 politeness. Besides the recommendation of being- 
 born in a district near Tepeleni, the inhabitants of 
 which are personally attached to the Vizier, he 
 has served with great credit in the wars of AH, and 
 was the first person wounded in the battle with the 
 French at Nicopolis. His situation at Suli is one 
 of high trust, and he has occupied it ever since the 
 country was subdued. The Vizier, I found, had 
 sent him a letter by his son, enjoining him to shew 
 me the utmost attention, as long as I chose to re- 
 main at Suli. I was accordingly received with 
 great deference, and had but to express a wisli on 
 any subject, to obtain its gratification. 
 
 While smoking witli the Aga, soon after my ar- 
 rival, he gave me some anecdotes of that singular 
 warfare with the Suliotes, which, during seventeen 
 years, occupied occasionally much of the attention 
 and military resources of AH Pasha. Of this war- 
 fare I shall give a slight sketch, derived from dif-
 
 238 WARFARE OF ALI PASHA 
 
 fetent sources of information which fell in my 
 way. * 
 
 The people of the Suli mountains, who, from their 
 wild and secluded situation, had acquired all the 
 characters of a distinct tribe, inhabited ten or twelve 
 small towns or villages, the principal of which was 
 distant about a mile from the modern * Seraglio. 
 They were Albanians in origin, belonging to the 
 division of that people called the Tzamides. While 
 ' many of their countrymen had become Mahometans, 
 the Snliotes .retained the Christian religion ; but in 
 a rudeness of form accordant with the manner in 
 which they lived. Their number probably never 
 exceeded 12,000, of whom between three and four 
 thousand were capable of bearing arms. The pe- 
 culiarities of their situation gave a wildness and 
 masculine daring to their character, which dis- 
 tinguished them from the other Albanian tribes. 
 The Suliote women partook the dangers of war 
 with their husbands, and bore together with 
 them the miseries which their community after- 
 wards suffered. It is related as an anecdote, that 
 at one of the fountains of Suli, the females settled 
 the precedence in drawing water, according to the 
 respective bravery their luisbands had displayed 
 in battle; and in the progress of the war witli 
 Ali Pasha, some of their number displayed a fear- 
 less resolution, which could not easily be surpassed 
 by the other sex. 
 
 * The territory of Suli was divided into four Choria, or dis- 
 tricts, viz. Suli, Kiafa, Avariko, and Samonica.
 
 AGAINST THE SULIOTES. 239 
 
 In noticing, however, this feature of the Suliotes, 
 it is necessary to add, that it was in some measure 
 the bravery of a band of robbers, organized into 
 social life, continuing their character through suc- 
 cessive generations, and combining some generous 
 qualities with their rapine and ferocity of habit. 
 They were the terror of the southern part of Al- 
 bania ; and the descent of the Suliotes from their 
 mountain-fastnesses, for the sake of plunder or ven- 
 geance, was a general signal of alarm to the sur- 
 rounding country. The region of Suli was itself 
 rarely approached either by friend or enemy, and 
 had never been subdued by the Turkish power in 
 Albania ; though various contests had occurred at 
 different periods with the successive governors, or 
 independent rulers of their country. The ambi- 
 tious spirit of Ali Pasha could not tolerate the vi- 
 cinity of a people who insulted his authority, and 
 pursued their predatory excursions, even into the 
 plains surrounding his capital. His first efforts 
 against them were comparatively feeble, and only 
 very partially successful. As his power increased, 
 his hostility became more formidable, but was still 
 diverted at intervals by the other enterprizes he was 
 carrying on. Year after year an irregular warfare 
 was continued, many of the details of which, though 
 in themselves of little importance, are carefully 
 preserved in the Albanian songs. The Suliotes 
 depended chiefly on the nature of their country 
 and their own knowledge of it, and had few forti-
 
 240 WARFARE OF ALI PASHA 
 
 iications but those of their native passes and cliffs. 
 The interior region of Suli is accessible only from 
 two or three points, and these approaches of such 
 nature, that no number of troops could be of avail 
 against them. If their enemies gained any advance 
 of ground during the summer, they were generally 
 obliged to relinquish it in the succeeding winter; 
 the situation and desperate bravery of the Suliotes 
 giving them the advantage which they wanted in 
 numbers. The troops of Ali Pasha were stationed 
 for the most part at the entrance of the passes; while 
 the Vizier himself employed bribery and other in- 
 direct means, in aiding the efforts of open force. 
 The treacherous seizure of Lampro Giavella, one 
 of the principal of the Suliote leaders, did but ani- 
 mate the spirit of this people, who were aware that 
 mercy was not to be looked for from the hands of 
 Ali Pasha. Giavella himself escaped by leaving his 
 son a hostage in the hands of Ali. This intrepid and 
 singular man sacrificed his son to his love for his 
 country. He rejoined the little band of the Suliotes, 
 urged them to revenge, and bore a conspicuous 
 part in every contest they supported against their 
 enemy. 
 
 The warfare continued of this kind until within 
 two or three years of its termination. The Vizier 
 at this time devoted more attention and a larger 
 force to bring it to an end. His troops thus em- 
 ployed are said to have been occasionally as many 
 as 15,000 men, and his sons Mouctar and Veli were 
 repeatedly their leaders in the war. After various
 
 AGAINST THE SULIOTES. 241 
 
 attempts he succeeded in gaining possession of a 
 mountain which is elevated, though at some dis- 
 tance, above the Kiafa of Souli, the site of the 
 modern fortress ; and here a building was erected 
 for the shelter of his troops. The Suliotes still, 
 however, maintained their ground ; and it is said 
 that the Vizier accomplished his final object, chiefly 
 by the bribes and promises he held out to their 
 principal leaders. His soldiers, thus aided, entered 
 by force the villages of Suli, and possessed them- 
 selves of the slight artificial defences which the 
 Suliotes had prepared. The latter,, headed by their 
 priests and animated by their women, continued 
 the combat to the last. A female named Cheitho 
 distinguished herself greatly in this extremity ; 
 and Samuel, one of the Suliote priests and leaders, 
 is said to have blown up the building he had 
 been defending, when it could no longer be saved 
 from the enemy. Finding themselves surrounded, 
 and losing at length every hope, they became 
 desperate : a considerable number cut their way 
 through Ali's troops and fled ; some slew them- 
 selves ; a still greater number were slain. It is 
 related as an authentic story, that a groupe of 
 Suliote women assembled on one of the precipices 
 adjoining the modern Seraglio, and threw their in- 
 fants into the chasm below, that they might not 
 become the slaves of the enemy. A part of the 
 Suliote tribe found refuge in Parga and Corfu ; as 
 it is said, by agreement with the Vizier, who pro- 
 bably adopted this measure to prevent the effects 
 vol. ii. u
 
 242 MOUNTAINS AND SERAGLIO OF SULI. 
 
 of despair in a brave people. His intention, how- 
 ever, was obvious of extirpating the race from the 
 country. He destroyed almost wholly the towns of 
 Suli, and peopled the few habitations which were 
 left, with Albanians from the northern part of his 
 dominions. The principal village of Suli, to the 
 north of the Seraglio, now contains scarcely an 
 hundred inhabited houses. On the two great in- 
 sulated cliffs, which impend over the river in this 
 central part of the region, Ali Pasha erected his 
 fortresses ; keeping always a considerable number 
 of troops here, and thus rendering the interior of 
 his dominions more secure, by positions which were 
 once a principal disturbance to his power. 
 
 This war with the Suliotes terminated about ten 
 years ago. While travelling in Albania, I heard 
 various other anecdotes, illustrating the bravery of 
 this people, and the stratagems employed on both 
 sides. I do not detail these, as I cannot vouch for 
 their authenticity, and as they might appear to 
 give too much importance to the warfare against a 
 small mountain-tribe of Albania. * 
 
 The Seraglio of Suli is included within the area 
 of the great fortress, recently erected by Ali Pasha. 
 In architecture it is much the same as other Turkish 
 buildings ; in situation it is scarcely perhaps to be 
 paralleled. From the great gallery you look down 
 a precipice not much less, probably, than a thou- 
 
 * A detailed narrative of this Suliote war, was published in 
 the Romaic language at Venice, in 1815, under the title of 
 lropta 2«?us *«» ITapyaj.
 
 # » 
 
 SflHi 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 ^ 
 
 £1
 
 MOUNTAINS AND SERAGLIO OF SULI. 243 
 
 sand feet in height, into the dark waters of the 
 river below ; which so seen, is a fit representative of 
 the ancient Acheron. On every side is scenery of 
 the wildest and most extraordinary nature, with a 
 disorderly magnificence about it, which forms per- 
 haps its most striking peculiarity. The mountains 
 and precipices, all on the greatest scale, are thrown 
 confusedly around, as if some other agency than 
 the slow working of nature had operated to pro- 
 duce these effects. The eye, looking generally 
 over the scene, is perplexed at first by its vastness 
 and intricacy, and requires some time to select the 
 objects on which to repose. Towards the south, 
 and over the peaked summits which environ the 
 Seraglio, is seen the long chasm-like channel of 
 the Acheron ; beyond it the country stretching 
 down to the gulf of Arta ; the gulf itself, and the 
 mountains of Acarnania, in the remote distance. 
 To the west, you look down precipices intersected 
 by deep ravines to that point in the river, where, 
 receiving the stream of Zagouri from the north, it 
 turns at once to the west j and continuing its 
 course for some way between cliffs of immense 
 height, makes a sudden exit from its confined 
 channel into the wide and fertile plains of Para- 
 mithia, Its windings on these plains may be far 
 traced, while the distant landscape embraces the 
 sea and chains of hills stretching along the coast. 
 The view towards the north is full of the finest 
 mountain-scenery. It is, in fact, a vast amphitheatre 
 of mountains ; the space within them not a plain 
 
 r 2
 
 244 MOUNTAINS AND SERAGLIO OF SULI. 
 
 country, but every-where intersected by ridges and 
 profound ravines. Through the principal of these 
 ravines flows the river Zagouri ; the dark and se- 
 cluded character of which might admit of its being 
 called the Cocytus, were there not some doubt as 
 to the situation of this stream, in reference to the 
 Acheron and the Acherusian lake. The ruined 
 remains of several of the Suliote villages appear 
 among the cliffs which border on these deep vallies. 
 The mountain on which the fortresses of Suli 
 have been erected, has a singular semi-lunar form ; 
 terminating at the summit in a ridge so narrow, as 
 barely to admit a narrow path, leading from one 
 fortress to another. Of the buildings in this situ- 
 ation, only the fortress of the Seraglio is fortified 
 with cannon, some pieces of which I observed to 
 be of English manufacture : two other edifices are 
 inhabited by Albanian soldiers ; the fourth, placed 
 on the highest pinnacle, to the north of the Se- 
 raglio, has never yet been completed. Having 
 been twice struck with lightning, a superstitious 
 belief has arisen, that it is impossible to erect any 
 building on this spot, and the work has been dis- 
 continued. Between this pinnacle and the Seraglio, 
 an immense ravine descends from the summit of 
 the ridge ; so nearly perpendicular, that a fragment 
 of rock thrown down, may be heard, after a long 
 interval, plunging into the waters of the river be- 
 low. From one of the precipices inlpending over 
 this ravine, it is related that the Suliote women 
 threw their children, when the contest for their
 
 MOUNTAINS AND SERAGLIO OF SULI. 245 
 
 liberty had come to an end. To such a spot the 
 epithet given by Aristophanes, A^ovlioj o-x<»reAos 
 aifjutTo?ayvis f " the rock of Acheron dropping blood" 
 may indeed be well applied. * 
 
 Separated from the northern extremity of this 
 mountain by a deep hollow, is another insulated 
 ridge, on which has also been erected a large for- 
 tress, commanding the road to the plains of Para- 
 mithia, which descends between the two. The 
 village of Suli is situated under this fortress on the 
 eastern side. A mosque has lately been built here 
 for its present Mahometan population. 
 
 The whole groupe of the Suli mountains, as well 
 as the rocks that form the eastern barrier of the 
 valley, are composed of the white conchoklal lime- 
 stone, formerly described; containing a great 
 quantity of flint, which is for the most part ar- 
 ranged in alternate layers, but in some places also 
 in nodules in the limestone. These layers, which 
 vary in thickness from a few lines to two or three 
 inches, are sometimes well defined in their junction 
 with the limestone ; in other places there is an 
 apparent transition from one to the other, or 
 frequently a thin seam of oxide of iron, and de- 
 composed earth, interposed between them. The 
 nodules are generally much shattered, so as to 
 break into small angular fragments with a slight 
 blow of the hammer. In various parts of the cliffs 
 of Suli, the limestone is exposed in a series of re- 
 gular beds to a great extent, and in some places 
 with a very great inclination. 
 
 * Aristoph. Ba,^*^. t7i. 
 It 3
 
 246 MOUNTAINS AND SERAGLIO OF SULI. 
 
 I remained in the Seraglio of Suli till the 4th of 
 March ; making excursions in its immediate vici- 
 nity ; and with the few instruments I had by me, 
 mapping the outline of the country as accu- 
 rately as could be done from two or three points of 
 view. * The old Aga, though lame from his 
 wounds, walked with me to visit the different for- 
 tresses ; and was assiduous in his civilities within 
 the Seraglio. An excellent dinner, consisting of 
 ten or twelve dishes, was each day served up to 
 me in the Turkish style ; the chalva, dulma^ and 
 other dishes cooked in the best manner, by the 
 females of the family; whom, however, the Turkish 
 usage prevented me from seeing during my stay 
 here. I was waited upon at dinner by three or 
 four Albanian soldiers, dressed in the manner of 
 their country. My guard, Tachir, was not al- 
 lowed to sit down in the presence of his father who 
 maintained much state and dignity in his situation. 
 This old man shewed the utmost veneration for his 
 master, Ali Pasha ; and gave me some interesting 
 anecdotes regarding a period of his life, when he 
 was but beginning his career. 
 
 Among the other guards of the Seraglio of Suli, 
 were a number of dogs, the most ferocious animals 
 of their species I ever recollect to have seen. 
 Their presence made it impossible to move out of 
 doors, without the protection of some of the Alba- 
 nians stationed in the fortress. 
 
 * These papers, with maps of other parts of Albania, I after- 
 wards lost.
 
 247 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM SULI. — AIA-GLYKY. PARAMITHIA. — 
 
 SULLOPIA. — JOURNEY DOWN THE RIVER KALAMA. — SOU- 
 UAS. RUINS AT PALAIA-VENETIA. RETURN TO PARA- 
 MITHIA. ROUTE TO IOANNINA. — RUINS NEAR DRAMA- 
 
 SUS. — RESIDENCE AT IOANNINA. 
 
 On the 4th of March, after exchanging salut- 
 ations with Mouctar Aga, I quitted the Seraglio 
 of Suli. Though this edifice seems almost to hang 
 over the junction of the Zagouri with the river of 
 Suli, yet it required a steep descent of nearly an 
 hour to reach this spot. Crossing the river at the 
 point where it suddenly turns to the west, we con- 
 tinued our course along its southern side ; sometimes 
 receding to avoid the deep chasms which descend 
 to it ; sometimes pursuing a dangerous path on 
 narrow ledges of rock which hang over its waters. 
 One point in this route is very extraordinary, where 
 the path, scarcely four feet in width, passes at the 
 height of about 150 feet above the river; and so 
 entirely impends over it, that a stone dropped from 
 the hand, somewhat stretched out, falls far within 
 the water. Above the head are great cliffs, forming 
 a magnificent front on this side the river ; while 
 on the other, the precipices are equally abrupt, and 
 
 r 4
 
 248 VALLEY OF PARAMITHIA. 
 
 the mountain rises above into heights, which atthis 
 time were deeply covered with snow. The poplars 
 appearing at intervals among the scenery, may bring 
 to mind the old story of Hercules having carried 
 this tree from the banks of the Acheron into other 
 parts of Greece. The Pass formed at this place is 
 almost impracticable to the traveller ; wholly so to 
 an enemy. Just below it on the northern side, a 
 large stream joins the river, by a subterraneous 
 channel through the rocks, from which it rushes 
 out with great violence. Nothing can be finer than 
 the retrospective view from this point, of the cliffs, 
 peaks, and fortresses of Suli. 
 
 The broad valley of Paramithia, or as it is gene- 
 rally called, the plain of Glyky, now opened at 
 once before us ; and the river, leaving its dark 
 channel, spread out into a wide stream, which 
 flows in a winding course towards the sea. The 
 distance of Porto Fanari, or the Port Glyky, 
 which is its aestuary, maybe from 16 to 20 miles, in 
 a south-western direction from this place. The river 
 in this interval has the name of Glyky, derived no 
 doubt from the ancient name of this aestuary. The 
 plain through which it flows is very fertile, and 
 there are many large villages upon it. The ancient 
 towns of Pandosia and Ephyre were situated in this 
 district # ; and to go further back into old times, 
 
 * Pandosia is known in connection with the Dodonaean oracle, 
 which denounced to Alexander king of Epirus, that he should 
 avoid this city and the Acherusian water. He did so in Epirus, 
 but found his death in Italy, where there were places of the 
 same name.
 
 
 Bfei 
 
 - 
 
 ar^ 
 
 ; %
 
 AIA-GLYKY. 249 
 
 we may suppose that here were the dominions of 
 Aidoneus or Pluto ; by whom Theseus and Pirithous 
 were imprisoned, in consequence of the unlawful 
 attempt of the latter to carry away his wife. This 
 history, and its connection with the mythology of 
 the infernal regions, may further be maintained, 
 by supposing that Hercules, coming to the release 
 of Ins friends, penetrated through the Passes of 
 Suli, which no very violent metaphor would make 
 into the jaws of hell, and thence entered the terri- 
 tory of Aidoneus. There are certainly passages 
 in ancient mythology, which derive less vindication 
 than this from the places where their scenery is 
 laid. 
 
 I crossed the river a second time, where it comes 
 out from the Passes of Suli. Here its breadth 
 may be about that of the Thames at Oxford. 1 
 remained two hours at a guard-house on its north- 
 ern bank, called Aia-Glyky, from a church which 
 formerly stood on this spot, but which was thrown 
 down during the war with the Suliotes. Among 
 the ruins of the church, I found the remains of 
 seven columns of Egyptian granite, and several of 
 marble ; some of which, from a capital in the 
 wall of the guard-house, I presume to have been 
 of the Corinthian Order. There was also a mar- 
 ble pavement of the church ; and I was told of 
 one or two inscriptions, which unfortunately at 
 this time were covered by the Indian corn and rice, 
 forming the stores of the guard-house. Of the date 
 or history of this church, I am unable to speak.
 
 250 VALLEY OF PARAMITHIA. 
 
 If there were any ancient city on the spot, it possi- 
 bly might have been Pandosia, though it must be 
 added that the character of the remains just de- 
 scribed, does not indicate remote antiquity. 
 
 Thirty soldiers are stationed at Aia-Glyky, which 
 in the war of Suli, was a point of much importance. 
 Having received notice from Mouctar Aga of 
 Suli of my intended arrival, these men had roasted 
 a large goat, which, with coffee, pipes, milk, and 
 honey, was set before me soon after my arrival. 
 
 From this place to the city of Paramithia, is five 
 hours' journey in a northerly direction, along the 
 broad valley, through which the river of Para- 
 mathia flows to join that of Suli. This valley, the 
 breadth of which varies from three to five miles, is 
 fertile and well cultivated ; the produce chiefly 
 maize, wheat, rice, tobacco, &c. Its boundary on 
 the eastern side is the range of the Suli mountains, 
 continued towards the north, and forming a con- 
 tinuous line of precipices of vast height ; on the 
 western side a chain of hills, much less lofty, but 
 terminating somewhat abruptly towards the valley, 
 and exhibiting in their sections a fine example of 
 inclined and contorted stratification. Their com- 
 position is wholly calcareous. 
 
 The plain of Paramithia is very populous ; nu- 
 merous towns and villages appearing in very pictu- 
 resque situations on the skirts of the mountains ; 
 some of these almost enveloped in wood. The 
 greater number have a Mahometan population, 
 others are exclusively inhabited by Christians ; the 
 
 ii
 
 PARAMITHIA. Q51 
 
 local separation of the two religions being for the 
 most part very distinct. The most considerable of 
 these towns is Carbonari, on the western side of 
 the valley, said to contain nearly 800 houses. 
 
 The city of Paramithia is situated near the upper 
 extremity of the plain, on the lower part of the 
 mountains forming its eastern boundary. The 
 town, however, rises so far up the ascent, that 
 there is a difference of level of at least four or five 
 hundred feet between the lower and higher parts of 
 it. The upper extremity is formed by a bold projec- 
 ting mass of rock, on which stands the old castle of 
 Paramithia. On another insulated hill is situated 
 a small fortress or guard-house. The city contains 
 about 9000 inhabitants ; but is built so irregularly, 
 as to cover a surface proportionally much more ex- 
 tensive ; the houses no where being collected into re- 
 gular streets, except in the Bazars, whicli form the 
 central part of the town. The greater part of the 
 population is Mussulman, and there are five mosques 
 in the place. It is, however, also the seat of a Greek 
 bishopric, conjointly with Parga; the bishop taking 
 his title from both places. 
 
 The mountains, which are a continuation of 
 those of Suli, rise to a great height directly above 
 Paramithia. In two or three places within a few 
 miles of the city, there are the remains of ruined 
 walls, indicating the situation of some of the ancient 
 towns or castles of Epirus. I had the opportunity 
 of seeing only one of these places, about four miles 
 to the south of the city. It was an object of some
 
 252 PARAMITHIA. 
 
 interest with me to enquire at Paramithia, respecting 
 the beautiful bronzes said to have been found here ; 
 some of which are at present in the fine collection 
 of R. P. Knight, Esq. ; a few in the possession of 
 J. Hawkins, Esq. ; and several reported still to 
 remain in Russia, whence those now in England 
 were obtained. * I lodged at Paramithia in the 
 house of a Greek of some intelligence, and several 
 other Greeks of the city came in to visit me ; but, 
 after every enquiry, I was unable either to learn 
 any thing as to the bronzes actually discovered, or 
 to ascertain the existence of others on the spot. I 
 left a commission with one of the Greeks to make 
 further enquiries for me, which, as I afterwards 
 heard, were equally unavailing. 
 
 While at Paramithia, I decided on making an 
 excursion down the river Kalama, the ancient 
 Thyamis, which flows through the district to the 
 north of the city. The principal motive for this 
 journey was an idea I had at the time, which is 
 certainly a mistaken one, that the site of the oracle 
 of Dodona was to be sought for in this part of 
 Epirus. I also wished to examine the ruins of a 
 large city, which were described to me as being on 
 the banks of the Kalama, a day's journey from 
 
 * Mr. Knight has eight entire bronze figures, said to come 
 from Paramithia ; of which two Jupiters and an Apollo are among 
 the most beautiful pieces. He possesses also three fragments 
 of the same reputed origin ; one of them a bronze representing 
 Ulysses carried out of the cave under the ram. Five of the Pa- 
 ramithian bronzes are said to remain in Russia ; but in whose 
 possession is not exactly known. Nor is it well ascertained how 
 they were carried into that country from Greece.
 
 RIVER KALAMA. 253 
 
 Paramithia, and which Meletius calls the site of the 
 ancient Pandosia. For this excursion I obtained 
 an additional guide from the Aga commanding at 
 Paramithia, who had received a written order from 
 the Vizier to forward my views in every instance. 
 
 Leaving Paramithia early in the morning, I pro- 
 ceeded in a N.W. direction to the upper part of 
 the valley ; where the river, which takes its name 
 from the city, has its sources in various torrents, 
 gushing out suddenly from the limestone rocks, 
 and supplying the tobacco and corn-mills which 
 have been erected here. At the village of Neo- 
 chori, I ascended a ridge of hill, from the summit 
 of which was seen the beautiful valley of the 
 Kalama in front ; and beyond this a hilly and pic- 
 turesque country, rising in the distance into lofty 
 snow-covered mountains. We descended through 
 a village, built amidst a grove of trees, to the banks 
 of the Kalama, which here is about sixty yards in 
 width, and brings down a large stream of water. 
 This river rises in the country to the north of 
 loannina; and the general outline of its course is in 
 a S.W. direction towards the Ionian Sea, which it 
 enters nearly opposite the southern extremity of 
 the isle of Corfu. 
 
 Having been informed of some ruins in the 
 vicinity of Sullopia, a village to the north of the 
 river, I deviated from my proposed route to go 
 thither. We forded over the Kalama, not without 
 much difficulty, though following the directions of 
 some peasants, whom the authority of my Albanian
 
 &54 RIVER KALAMA. 
 
 guards had summoned to the spot. The view up 
 the valley from this point is very striking; its 
 boundaries, particularly on the east side being 
 formed by the precipices, which may be considered 
 to terminate in this direction, the range of the Suli 
 mountains. From the right bank of the river, I 
 proceeded to Sullopia, distant about twelve miles 
 from Paramithia. It was well that I had enter- 
 tained but slender hopes of discovery here. Instead 
 of ancient remains, I found only a wretched vil- 
 lage of Turkish Albanians ; the few inhabitants I 
 saw in which, regarded me with suspicion and 
 anger ; and, but for the menaces of my soldiers, 
 would probably have driven me from the spot. 
 My enquiries, as to ruins in the vicinity, were 
 wholly fruitless, and scarcely answered but by 
 compulsion. 
 
 Quitting this place with few regrets, I continued 
 my course for some miles in a S.W. direction to 
 regain the banks of the Kalama, through a hilly 
 but fertile country, with many villages scattered 
 over its surface. We came again to the river, five 
 miles below where we had forded over it, and at a 
 place where it enters a narrow defile, between per- 
 pendicular limestone cliffs of great height. These 
 cliffs present a very fine stratification of the rock, 
 which is also singularly broken into tabular masses 
 of large size. I ascended an elevated point to the 
 ruins of a tower, whence I had a very striking 
 view of the ravine through which the river flows 
 beneath. Passing through this ravine, which is
 
 soulias. 255 
 
 two miles in length, we came upon a circular plain, 
 where the soil is extremely rich, and the tillage of 
 the ground, chiefly for maize, conducted with 
 great neatness. A number of villages appear on 
 the skirts of the surrounding hills, the houses 
 grouped among the trees, and the landscape 
 remarkably pleasing in its character, with more of 
 softness than usually belongs to the scenery of 
 Albania. 
 
 On a richly wooded hill, on the left bank of the 
 Kalama, stands the town of Soulias, where I pro- 
 posed to pass the night, We crossed the river, 
 which is here deep and rapid, by a horse ferry; and 
 ascended to the town, which is several hundred 
 feet above, by a steep and winding path. I was 
 interested by finding the whole of this hill to be 
 composed of a highly crystallized lamellar gypsum ; 
 the effect of the colours and crystalline appearance 
 of which was in many places very beautiful. No- 
 thing can be more picturesque than the interior 
 aspect of Soulias ; the houses scattered through a 
 thick wood of olives and other trees, and deep 
 glens intersecting the town in different directions ; 
 while the elevated situation shews at intervals, 
 through breaks in the wood, the views of distant 
 mountains, or of the valley and river below. 
 
 An application to the Codja-Bashee of the place 
 procured me a lodging in the house of a Greek 
 priest ; a poor old man, whose habitation consisted 
 of a single room, with an earthen flooring, and 
 little other furniture than the straw mats, on winch
 
 256 soulias. 
 
 he himself, his wife, and four children, slept around 
 the fire. He was extremely loquacious ; and, in 
 the evening, having taken somewhat too much 
 rachi or spirits, became vociferously merry. He 
 talked much of the discoveries he had made among 
 the ruins at Palaia-Venetia, the place I was about 
 to visit ; which discoveries, as I afterwards found, 
 had no existence but in his own fancy. He spoke 
 also, with an air of mystery, of the ancient trea- 
 sures concealed at this place; and gave some 
 strange anecdotes of a nameless Italian who had 
 come hither in a secret manner, and availed him- 
 self of some peculiar means of finding out where 
 these treasures lay. In the course of the evening 
 I visited two or three adjoining cottages, to ex- 
 amine stones with inscriptions upon them, which 
 had been brought hither from the ruins. All the 
 inscriptions were sepulchral, and afforded nothing 
 very interesting. The eldest son of my host joined 
 us at night, a young man who had served in the 
 Albanian regiment of the King of Naples, and had 
 recently returned from Sicily, in consequence of 
 the regiment being disbanded. 
 
 The following morning I visited the ruins at 
 Palaia-Venetia, on the northern bank of the Ka- 
 huna, two or three miles below Soulias. Besides 
 my other guards, I ' was accompanied to this spot 
 by three Albanian soldiers, sent by the command- 
 ant of Soulias ; nominally to do me honour ; but 
 really, as 1 had every cause to believe, to act as a 
 watch upon me, and observe if I discovered any
 
 RUINS AT PALAIA-VENETCA. 257 
 
 thing precious. The story of treasures existing 
 here is very general in the vicinity, and entirely 
 credited by the inhabitants. Why these ruins have 
 been selected for such rumours, in preference to 
 others, I am unable to say. 
 
 Crossing the river, we continued along its right 
 bank to the spot. On each side, the valley, which 
 is narrow, is bounded by hills of moderate height, 
 composed entirely of the same gypsum which forms 
 the hill of Soulias. The highest point of these 
 hills which I saw, may perhaps be about .500 feet 
 above the level of the river. The gypsum is, for 
 the most part, of the usual greyish white colour, in 
 some places with a tinge of blue. 
 
 The ruins at Palaia-Venetia are within a bend 
 of the Kalama, which leaves a considerable extent 
 of nearly level surface, below the hills on the north 
 side of the river. In their present state, they con- 
 sist of little more than the ancient walls, which, 
 after following the semi-circular bend of the river, 
 on the edge of the declivity that overhangs it, 
 ascend on the western side the hill behind the 
 city, and skirt along it even to the summit. The 
 situation is still further insulated by the deep valley 
 of a river, which, descending from the mountains 
 to the north, joins the Kalama just at the place 
 where the bend is completed, and the river resumes 
 its former course. The walls are built in the 
 accustomed manner with square or oblong stones, 
 which are of the largest size, where the structure 
 is most regular. I measured several which were 
 
 VOL. If. s
 
 258 VIEW FROM PALAIA-VENETIA. 
 
 six, eight, or ten feet in length, with a breadth of 
 three or four feet and proportionate thickness. In 
 one place, the remains of a large gateway are very 
 distinct ; about 200 yards from which a great wall 
 branches off from the walls surrounding the city, 
 and descends to the edge of the river ; where there 
 are the remains of a square building, perhaps in- 
 tended to prevent the passage of an enemy along 
 the flat ground which lies close to the river, or 
 possibly to protect from attack those who were 
 employed to bring up water to the city. 
 
 Within the outer walls are others, which appear 
 to traverse the city in different directions, and also 
 the ruins of houses and other buildings. I ob- 
 served many sculptured fragments, particularly in 
 one spot, where I think it probable are some of the 
 sepulchres of the city. After much search, how- 
 ever, I could not rind a single stone with any in- 
 scription upon it, nor did I see any columns or 
 vestiges of temples upon the spot. 
 
 The circumference of the area, occupied by the 
 city, may be somewhat more than two miles. I 
 ascended the hill behind the ruins, following the 
 course of the wall. From the summit, where there 
 is now a small Greek church, I had a very exten- 
 sive view of the great plains through which the 
 Kalama flows from this place towards the sea. The 
 coast itself enters into the view at intervals, from 
 the port of Parga northwards to the promontories, 
 formed by a chain of hills which meet the sea op- 
 posite Corfu. This island stretches to a great ex-
 
 TOWN OF PARGA. 259 
 
 tent before the eye ; and even the city of Corfu 
 was distinctly visible at the head of a bay on the 
 eastern side of the isle. On the declivity of the 
 chain of hills just mentioned, I remarked the large 
 town of Saiathes. Another considerable place, 
 called Margariti, was also comprehended in the 
 view before me. The peninsula of Parga formed 
 a distinct object in the landscape ; the town upon 
 which, containing four or five thousand inhabitants, 
 and extremely strong from its position, has usually 
 been annexed to the possession of Corfu ; and 
 together with this island passed from the power of 
 the Venetians, successively into that of the Rus- 
 sians and French. At this time the French flag 
 was flying on its fortifications, and the possession 
 was certainly of some importance in reference to 
 Corfu, as affording a point of connection with the 
 continent, and of refuge against the English 
 cruisers, who were stationed here to blockade the 
 island. It is the only place on this coast which 
 does not belong to Ali Pasha, whose earnest wish 
 it is to make himself master of the town ; less per- 
 haps from the desire of increasing his power, than 
 from hostility towards the inhabitants, and thirst of 
 revenge for real or presumed insults which they 
 have offered to his power. Parga has frequently 
 been a place of refuge to those who have fled from 
 his territory ; and shelter afforded to his enemies is 
 an offence which Ali Pasha has never forgiven. 
 The Pargiotes regard him with a mixture of fear 
 and detestation ; and even if left without aid,
 
 260 ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY OF THIS DISTRICT. 
 
 would probably avail themselves of their position to 
 make a vigorous resistance to his views. * 
 
 We are furnished with but scanty materials as 
 to the ancient geography of this part of Epirus, — 
 a deficiency which is "very evident in all the modern 
 attempts to illustrate it. It appears generally that 
 the portion of Thesprotia, stretching into the 
 interior between the rivers Thyamis and Acheron, 
 had the name of Cassiopeia ; derived perhaps in 
 the first instance from some relation to the city of 
 Cassiopeia, on the opposite coast of Corfu, but 
 afterwards, as it would seem, describing a distinct 
 power in Epirus. Strabo speaks of four cities in 
 this district, Buchcetium, Elatria, Batise, and Pan- 
 dosia ; but it may be inferred from Ptolemy, and 
 other authors, that there was also a city expressly 
 called Cassiope t, and this probably at some dis- 
 tance from the coast. It seems likely that the 
 ruins just described are those of one of these cities, 
 
 * January 1819. The course of political events in 1814 re- 
 moved the French flag from Parga, as well as from Corfu. The 
 Parguinotes, after repelling bravely an attack made on them 
 by the forces of Ali Pasha, cordially received the English into 
 their town, hoping for an efficient defence from our power. 
 Unhappily the treaties made at Vienna assigned them over to 
 the Porte, or what was virtually the same, to the power and 
 vengeance of Ali Pasha. A better knowledge of the circum- 
 stances has hitherto prevented a surrender, which would have 
 been equally unjust and cruel as a political act. Parga, at the 
 moment I am writing, is still under English protection ; and it 
 may be hoped that English honour and humanity will still be 
 maintained in our relation to this little community. 
 
 f There is some perplexity as to this point, since Ptolemy 
 speaks also of a port Cassiope on the coast of Chaonia.
 
 ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY OP THIS DISTRICT. 261 
 
 or possibly of the Gitanee mentioned by Livy, but 
 I cannot venture to decide which. Meletius has 
 called them the remains of Pandosia ; but this was 
 under the idea of the Kalama being the Acheron^ 
 on or near to which river it appears certain that 
 Pandosia was situated. * This supposition regard- 
 ing the Kalama has already been mentioned as an 
 erroneous one. Fortunately the doubt is of little 
 importance, since there are very few passages in 
 history which would obtain illustration from its 
 solution. 
 
 It may be worthy of mention, that the house 
 and estates of T. Pomponius Atticus, the friend of 
 Cicero, were situated on the plains near the mouth 
 of the Thyamis ; doubtless on some part of the 
 landscape upon which I looked down from the 
 hill at Palaia-Venetia. Frequent allusion is made 
 to this place in the letters of Cicero and else- 
 where, t * 
 
 A hilly country extends along the coast, to the 
 north of the Kalama, sheltering the port of Butrinto, 
 which is directly opposite to the isle of Corfu. 
 This place, now of very small importance, was the 
 Buthrotum of antiquity, well known in the narra- 
 tive of the iEneid ; its port, the Portus Pelodes of 
 the same age. Still farther to the north, the pro- 
 montory »f Posidium may be recognized ; but this 
 
 * Strabo, lib. x. 
 
 f Epist. ad Attic, lib. iii. lib. vii. &c. Cornelius Nepos says, 
 that the estates of Atticus were situated almost wholly in 
 Epirus. 
 
 s o
 
 262 RETURN TO EARAMITHIA. 
 
 part of the coast I had not the opportunity of sur- 
 veying during my stay in Albania. 
 
 After remaining some time on the hill above the 
 ruins, I descended to my guards whom I had left 
 below. I found three of them amusing themselves 
 by discharging their loaded fusils at some peasants, 
 who were ploughing on the opposite side of the 
 river ; while Tachir was abusing with much vehe- 
 mence, and many blows, another poor peasant, who 
 had declared his ignorance of any concealed trea- 
 sures among the ruins, and was unwilling to be 
 dragged by force from his plough, on a search 
 where he had no information to give. Releasing 
 these poor people by drawing off my rude Alba- 
 nians, I returned to Soulias, and revisited the old 
 priest, who was now perfectly sober, and a little 
 ashamed when I reminded him of the discoveries, 
 of which he had boasted among the ruins. He 
 fairly confessed, however, whence these discoveries 
 came ; and we concluded our acquaintance in good 
 humour, by making together a meal on eggs and 
 goat's milk. 
 
 In returning to Paramithia from this place, I 
 travelled along the southern bank of the Kalama, 
 passing in my way through several large villages, 
 inhabited by Albanians, chiefly Mahometans in 
 their religion. In one of these villages, called 
 Ratzari, I was struck by the appearance of 40 or 
 50 houses burnt down, or destroyed. On enquiry 
 I found that there had been a feud of long con- 
 tinuance in the place ; which ended in the more 
 powerful party destroying the habitations of their
 
 DEPARTURE FROM PARAMITH1A. %63 
 
 enemies, and driving them out with fire and sword. 
 Near this place, the flint occurring in the lime- 
 stone is sufficiently good to be used for the manu- 
 facture of gun-flints. 
 
 I was received by my former host at Paramithia 
 with a profusion of caresses, which made me sus- 
 pect some reason for this superfluous civility. The 
 matter was afterwards explained, by a request that 
 I would use my influence with the Vizier, to in- 
 duce him to remit the payment of 1000 piastres, 
 which had recently been required from this family. 
 I was obliged to decline all interference in the busi- 
 ness ; promising merely that I would speak to the 
 Vizier of the kindness with which I had been en- 
 tertained by the family. 
 
 Early on the 7th of March, I quitted Paramithia 
 on my way to loannina, which is distant about 
 twelve hours journey in an easterly direction. A 
 steep ascent of some miles, through a pass in the 
 mountains to the north-east of the city, brought me 
 to a wild and rugged spot, where, when AH Pasha 
 took Paramithia, his troops had an action with the 
 people of the place, in which about 140 men were 
 killed. Thence we descended along the valley of 
 a stream, which, after uniting with a more consi- 
 derable one from the south, flows northwards to 
 join the Kalama. The view from this route of the 
 northern extremity of the Suli mountains is very 
 fine. Near the junction of the two rivers, we 
 found the dead body of a man ; who, as we learnt 
 from a peasant, had been murdered here two days 
 
 s i<
 
 264f OLITZKA. 
 
 before. This act was said to have been committed 
 by robbers, but the story was told in a doubtful 
 manner. 
 
 We were now in sight of the mountain-ridge, 
 called Olitzka; — that which is seen from Ioannina 
 in a S. W. direction. Its general aspect is very 
 striking, as well from the great elevation, as from 
 the gracefulness of the outline, in which there is a 
 good deal of resemblance to that of Helicon in 
 Bceotia. The tract of country between Olitzka, 
 and the Suli mountains, is occupied by successive 
 ranges of hills, of subordinate formation to the great 
 chains, which traverse the country. These hills 
 seem to be chiefly composed of the debris of old 
 calcareous rocks, forming a loose conglomerate, 
 extremely subject to decay ; in consequence of 
 which this district is every-where intersected by 
 deep valleys and hollows. Between Paramithia, 
 and the ridge of Olitzka, the population of the 
 country is very small. Not more than two or three 
 villages occurred to my notice during the whole 
 route. 
 
 Making a circuit round the northern extremity 
 of Olitzka, I stopped for the night at Dramasus; a 
 village situate on the eastern front of the mountain, 
 and at a great height above the plain, which lies at 
 its feet. My Albanians conducted me to a guard- 
 house, inhabited by 20 or 30 soldiers ; and to avoid 
 the trouble of seeking a house in the village, 1 de- 
 cided on passing the night here. It was, however, 
 a dismal and wretched place ; the room in which I
 
 REMAINS OF A MAGNIFICENT THEATRE. c 2()5 
 
 slept had no windows, but six or eight large holes 
 in the wall ; as many in the roofing, and twice the 
 number in the floor. The soldiers kindled for me 
 a large fire, and a Greek priest brought wine and 
 provisions from the village ; but nevertheless I 
 passed the night with much discomfort from the 
 excessive cold. A northerly wind, and our vicinity 
 to the snows of Olitzka, brought the thermometer 
 as low as 28° ; and the next morning much ice lay 
 upon the ground. 
 
 Ioannina is distant twelve miles from Dramasus. 
 On my way thither, I made a short circuit towards 
 the south, to visit the remains o£*in ancient city, in 
 the valley which lies on the eastern side of Olitzka. 
 These ruins are unquestionably more interesting 
 than any other in Epirus, and would be remarkable 
 in any part of Greece, for the magnificent theatre 
 which appears among them ; and which in size, as 
 well as in beauty of structure, is perhaps not equal- 
 led by any other similar edifice in this * country. 
 The architecture is of the ancient Greek kind; the 
 stones employed in the building are of a large size, 
 and worked with extreme accuracy. When on the 
 spot, I took the different dimensions of the theatre 
 with some care; but these measurements were af- 
 terwards lost, together with my other papers ; a 
 circumstance which the previous researches of 
 Major Leake in the same place, not then known to 
 
 * I have not scon the great theatre at Epidatirus in the Argo- 
 lis; but from all that I can learn, that among the ruins below 
 Olitzka is still more considerable in its remains.
 
 %66 REMAINS OF A SMALL TEMPLE. 
 
 me, will probably leave little room to regret. If I 
 rightly recollect, it appeared from the estimate I 
 made, that the theatre might contain about 12,000 
 spectators. The number of seats is 56 ; giving a 
 great elevation to the building, and a proportional 
 extent to the proscenium, orchestra, and other 
 parts of it. 
 
 At a short distance from the theatre are the, re- 
 mains of a small temple. The lower portions of 
 14 columns are still to be seen, forming two rows, 
 about 16 feet asunder; and near to them two other 
 columns, which from their situation may possibly 
 have belonged tc 1 a propyleum. These columns 
 are formed of a coarse limestone conglomerate, the 
 fragments in which are all angular, and so attached, 
 as scarcely to admit of a plain surface. The re- 
 mains of some fluted Doric columns appear among 
 the other ruins of this edifice, composed of a fine 
 calcareous conglomerate, of a greyish white colour. 
 These fragments are now scattered upon the 
 ground, and their original situation is not very dis- 
 tinct. A stone, containing part of a groupe in 
 bas-relief, occurred to my notice j but so much 
 defaced, that the only portion distinguishable was 
 a male figure, of Herculean make, struggling with 
 a serpent. 
 
 The remains of the walls of the city are exten- 
 sive, including the area of a gently rising ground 
 within the valley. At no great distance from the 
 temple, there is a curious subterranean vault, qua- 
 drilateral in form, and supported entirely by pillars.
 
 RETURN TO IOANN1NA. 267 
 
 Some of the stones here might almost rival those 
 in the treasury at Mycenae. 
 
 These ruins have hitherto been almost unknown 
 to the antiquarian ; and notwithstanding their 
 magnitude, it is not yet well ascertained what 
 ancient city they represent. Some of the literary 
 Greeks of Ioannina speak of them as the ruins of 
 Cassiope ; and give to the ridge of Olitzka the 
 name of the Cassiopeian mountains ; but I am not 
 aware that this opinion has any certain authority, 
 and it may be doubted whether the city of Cassiope 
 was so far inland as this spot. I do not know of 
 any inscription found here, or any coin which may 
 explain the history of the place. I have not, in 
 any other part of Epirus, seen the remains of a 
 Greek theatre ; and it is certainly singular, that a 
 city large enough to give such a monument to 
 posterity, should not more distinctly be noticed by 
 ancient writers. 
 
 A low chain of hills divides this valley from the 
 plains of Ioannina. The view from the summit, 
 which includes these plains, the lake, and the 
 height of the Pindus chain in the distance, is won- 
 derfully imposing. I have formerly noticed the 
 very striking entrance into Ioannina from the road 
 of Paramithia. It is perhaps the most remarkable 
 of the approaches to the city, from the suddenness 
 with which the fine scenery of the lake, Seraglio, 
 and mosques is brought before the eye. 
 
 On my arrival at Ioannina, I found that the
 
 268 RECEPTION AT IOANNINA. 
 
 Vizier had reached this city two days before. I 
 sent a soldier to the Seraglio to mention my ar- 
 rival, who soon after returned with one of the 
 Greek attendants of the palace, commissioned to 
 conduct me to my lodging. The house appointed 
 for me belonged to Demetrius Athanasius ; for- 
 merly mentioned as one of the most respectable of 
 the Ioannina merchants. It was inhabited by a 
 relative of the family, the lady of a merchant 
 named Poulizo, now resident at Belgrade, who 
 lived here with her mother-in-law, and a retinue of 
 several domestics. A large apartment, well fur- 
 nished in the Greek manner, was appropriated to 
 my use, and every attention paid to my comfort 
 both by the family of my hostess, and by that of 
 Demetrius. The season of the long Greek fast, of 
 48 days preceding Easter, had just commenced ; 
 and during this early part of it, even fish or milk in 
 any shape, are prohibited by the rites of the church. 
 A separate table, however, was provided for me, 
 and well furnished with dishes of the kind formerly 
 described at a Greek dinner. 
 
 Soon after my arrival, I went to visit the family 
 of my old host, Michael Metzou, by whom I was 
 received with a cordiality of kindness that was ex- 
 tremely gratifying. Many of my former friends, 
 Psalida, Sakallarius, Lucas, Mela, and others, called 
 upon me at my lodging ; and I received visits also 
 from Koletti, the physician of Mouctar Pasha, and 
 Chipriasli, one of the physicians of the city, whom 
 I had not seen, when formerly here. Another of
 
 FAMILY OF DEMETRIUS. 269 
 
 those who called upon me was a Neapolitan physi- 
 cian, lately come to Ioannina, who entitled me caro 
 amico before he had been ten minutes in the room, 
 talked with infinite fluency for half an hour, and 
 quitted me with a profusion of gestures and saluta- 
 tions. This poor man, driven from Naples by the 
 revolutions there, came to Ioannina, with the desire 
 to obtain a place as one of the physicians of Ali 
 Pasha. This the Vizier woidd not consent to give 
 him; and he was now subsisting in a miserable and 
 precarious manner, till he might rind the means of 
 removal elsewhere. 
 
 I paid my respects to the family of my host 
 Demetrius the morning after my arrival. His 
 house, next to that of Logotheti of Livadia, is the 
 best I have seen in Greece, inhabited by a private 
 individual ; the apartments large, and the decora- 
 tions executed with more taste than is usual in this 
 country. His family was an excellent example of 
 the stvle and habits of life among; the Greeks of 
 the higher class. The dress of his wife and 
 daughters was distinguished by extreme richness, 
 and a profusion of those artificial ornaments which 
 appertain to the toilette of a Grecian female. Two 
 of the daughters are already married, but the hus- 
 band of one of them had been absent many years 
 in Wallachia, and the other son-in-law was about to 
 set out for the north of Turkey, on a commercial 
 speculation. The policy of Ali Pasha to prevent 
 emigration, besides rendering it very difficult for 
 any one to obtain the licence of quitting his
 
 270 MOUCTAR PASHA. 
 
 dominions, provides a further check, by invariably 
 retaining the wives and families of those who are 
 permitted for a time to quit the country. 
 
 Mouctar Pasha, the eldest son of the Vizier, 
 whom I had not yet seen, was at this time in 
 Ioannina. He sent his physician Koletti to say 
 that he wished to know me, and appointed an hour 
 for my visit to his Seraglio. At the time I arrived 
 there with the physician, he was in his Haram, and 
 we remained some time in an outer apartment, 
 witnessing the violent gesticulations of two Der- 
 vishes ; who were quarrelling, as I was told, about 
 their respective powers, and the influence of their 
 prayers with heaven. The scene was a ridiculous 
 but disgusting one. The quarrel, fomented by 
 some of the attendants of the Seraglio, proceeded 
 almost to blows. There was something which ap- 
 proached to idiotcy in the gestures and menaces of 
 the two Dervishes, who shouted loudly, threw 
 open their long robes, and showed much wildness 
 in their whole demeanour. 
 
 I was already wearied of this spectacle, when 
 summoned to the apartment of Mouctar Pasha. It 
 was a room which though not so large as many 
 in the Seraglio of the Vizier, yet was furnished 
 with greater taste and correctness of decoration. 
 Mouctar received me in a friendly manner, though 
 not with the same grace which characterizes his 
 brother Veli Pasha. He began the conversation 
 by paying me some compliments on my medical 
 services to his father, of which he said he had 
 
 S
 
 MOUCTAR PASHA. 271 
 
 been informed while at Berat. He then inquired 
 respecting my journies in Greece, and particularly 
 in Albania. Speaking to him of Suli, he gave me 
 some curious information as to the part he himself 
 bore in this warfare, from the exposure and fatigues 
 of which, he said that his health had sustained a 
 permanent injury. He spoke also of the battle 
 with the French near Prevesa, and of the cam- 
 paigns against the Russians on the Danube, in 
 which he had been present. An allusion I made 
 to some decorations on the ceiling of the apart- 
 ment, representing the sun and planets, introduced 
 the subject of astronomy, on which he asked several 
 questions, showing more curiosity than knowledge. 
 This is a topic to which the Turks in general are a 
 good deal attached, connecting it for the most part 
 with some vague notions of astrology, which are 
 satisfactory to their ignorance of better science. 
 These questions were followed by others on medical 
 subjects; partly respecting his own state of health, 
 in part of a more general nature. I was amused 
 by some which he asked as to the seat of life, and 
 by the arguments he made use of to vindicate his 
 own idea, that animal life resided solely in the 
 blood. His conversation on this point was not 
 without some degree of ingenuity. 
 
 While we were yet talking, one of the Dervishes 
 came in from the outer apartment ; seated himself, 
 without being invited, on a couch near the fire ; 
 took off his cap so as to expose his bald head, and 
 after many ridiculous gestures, told the Pasha of
 
 <272 MOUCTAR PASHA. 
 
 the quarrel he had had with the other Dervish. 
 Mouctar laughed vociferously at the narrative ; 
 but returning to his conversation with me, the 
 man soon afterwards, without any token of obeis- 
 ance, retired again from the apartment. 
 
 Mouctar Pasha is now somewhat more than forty, 
 unlike his father or brother in features, and with a 
 countenance less impressive than that of either. 
 There is a general expression of grossness about it> 
 not unmixed with good-humour; in his manners 
 an entire want of refinement, but without harshness. 
 In person, he is large, masculine, and strong. He 
 is less a politician than Veli Pasha, nor has he 
 succeeded in attaining the same rank ; but he is 
 esteemed a more intrepid warrior, and possibly 
 may be more popular among the Albanians, who 
 form the chief support to the power of the family. 
 His principal amusements are those of the chace, 
 in pursuing which he is generally attended by a 
 superb retinue of men and horses. I have seen him 
 also display great activity in the Turkish equestrian 
 game of the Djeridi, which I had the opportunity 
 of witnessing on a large scale during my last resi- 
 dence at Ioannina.* 
 
 * The spectacle of the Djeridi is an interesting one. A num- 
 ber of Cavaliers, on their fleetest horses, meet in rapid conflict 
 on a plain, hurl at each other their long javelins, made of the 
 wood of the willow tree; swiftly recede again, or turn aside to 
 avoid the blow of the lance; and with every variety of singular 
 and dexterous motion, display all that seems possible in horse- 
 manship. I have seen an assemblage of forty or fifty horsemen 
 occupied on the same spot in this game, in which the distinction 
 of ranks appears in great measure to be laid aside.
 
 ALI PASHA. 273 
 
 From the Seraglio of Mouetar Pasha, I was 
 summoned by a black slave to that of the Vizier, 
 whom I found not occupied in listening to Der- 
 vishes, but intently engaged on the affairs of his 
 government ; three secretaries sitting on the ground 
 before him, who were reading aloud different pa- 
 pers of accounts, and receiving his instructions 
 upon them. On my arrival, he suspended his busi- 
 ness for a short time to talk with me about my 
 journey, but soon afterwards took it up again, beg- 
 ging me to remain till it was finished. To this I 
 willingly acceded, as at no time were the strong 
 character and judgment of Ali Pasha seen to such 
 advantage, as when thus occupied. For a few 
 minutes this evening his passion was a good deal 
 excited, by the detection of some irregularity in the 
 accounts laid before him. Something like an an- 
 swer was attempted by one of the Greek secretaries, 
 but he was repulsed by a look which he could not 
 oppose, and the words mro ogify, " this I com- 
 mand" imperatively pronounced, put an instant 
 stop to all discussion. 
 
 I remained with the Vizier more than an hour 
 this evening. Psalida was present, and served as 
 the interpreter of all that I did not understand in 
 the Romaic language. The Vizier inquired very 
 minutely about my journey ; what object had most 
 interested me ? how I had been treated ? whether 
 I had found minerals of any value ? what ruins I 
 had examined ? &c. I told him of the rumour of 
 concealed treasures at Palaia-Venetia, and ridiculed 
 
 VOL. II. T
 
 274 ALI PASHA. 
 
 this belief. He said he had heard the same ac- 
 counts, and gave no credit to them ; but in saying 
 this, he looked at me with a sort of credulous 
 earnestness, as if he were half suspicious that I 
 might have found something on the spot. I men- 
 tioned to him the possibility of securing the upper 
 fortress of Suli against the lightning, which had 
 twice struck it, by the use of iron conductors. I 
 found that this fact was not new to him ; but he 
 has probably reasoned well in considering Suli as 
 sufficiently guarded, in what has already been done 
 there. The remainder of our conversation was of 
 a more general nature ; regarding the extent and 
 population of different countries, and the state of 
 European politics ; subjects to which he always 
 shewed himself much attached, and which at this 
 moment more especially engaged his attention, 
 from the important events following the French 
 campaign in Russia. His information as to these 
 events was very recent, and derived from the 
 most accurate sources. 
 
 The Vizier shewed the same desire as hereto- 
 fore to detain me some time longer in Albania ; 
 and, partly perhaps with this view, proposed to 
 me a journey through that part of his territory to 
 the north of Ioannina. To this plan I not unwil- 
 lingly acceded ; rinding myself already thus far 
 advanced from the coast ; and being aware, from 
 report, of various objects which were likely to in- 
 terest me in this part of the country. My inclina- 
 tions were further determined by the comfort, as
 
 ALI PASHA. 275 
 
 well as advantage, of travelling under the direct 
 protection of AH Pasha ; a circumstance of which 
 I was now sufficiently aware by the comparison 
 of my different journies in Greece. The Vizier, 
 as at Prevesa, shewed himself interested in the 
 details of my plan; and at a succeeding visit 
 I made to the Seraglio, pointed out on paper, 
 though not with great exactness, the relative situa- 
 tion of Argyro-Kastro, Gardiki, Tepeleni, and other 
 places I was about to visit ; and noticed the position 
 of several ruined cities, particularly of one at Gra- 
 dista, to the north of Tepeleni, which had not 
 before been examined. I was amused by the de- 
 scription he gave me at this time of the character 
 of different tribes of his Albanian subjects. A 
 principal criterion of merit, of course, was their 
 bravery and attachment to his service ; but he 
 shewed beyond this an acute observation in various 
 points of character, which are not so easily obvious 
 in their effects. 
 
 r l i
 
 270 
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM IOANNINA FOR THE NORTH OF ALBANIA. 
 
 ZITZA. FALLS OF GLISSANI. MONASTERY OF SOSINO. 
 
 LAKE OF TZEROVINA. DELVINAKI. — GREAT VALLEY 
 
 OF THE DEROPULI. LIBOCHOVO. ARGYRO-KASTRO. 
 
 GARDIKI. — MASSACRE OF THE GARDIKIOTES. ROUTE TO 
 
 TEPELENI. — RIVER VIOSA. — TEPELENI. — YUSUF AG A. 
 
 DINNER FROM THE HARAM. 
 
 I set out from Ioannina on the 12th of March, 
 on my journey towards the north of Albania. Four 
 guards were appointed to attend me on this expe- 
 dition, two of them Mussulmans, the other two 
 Christians, — a difference which is of comparatively 
 small moment in Albania, where the natives at 
 large are by no means rigid in the tenets of their 
 religion. One of the Christian Albanians with me 
 was a fine young man of the name of Constantine, 
 who having lately married in his native village near 
 Argyro-Kastro, was in high spirits at the oppor- 
 tunity this journey afforded him of visiting his 
 bride. 
 
 The buyrouldi, or passport, which the Vizier 
 gave me for the journey, was couched in much 
 stronger terms than that I had formerly carried into 
 Thessaly ; a circumstance in some measure needful 
 in certain parts of the country I was about to visit. 
 Expressed in the words of command from himself,
 
 ZITZA. 277 
 
 it began by calling me his axp$o$ xa) aycnrrilos <p«Ao$ ; 
 directed that I should every-where be received as 
 if he were present in person ; that I should be sup- 
 plied with horses wherever I required them ; and 
 that every house should be open to me. It con- 
 cluded by the singular threat, " if you do not all 
 this, the snake will eat you j" a denunciation well 
 understood by all who live within the dominion of 
 Ali Pasha. 
 
 My first day's journey was only to Zitza, a village 
 twelve miles north-north-west from Ioannina. In 
 leaving the city, I stopped a short time at the gar- 
 dens of the pavilion, to pay my respects to the 
 Vizier, who was spending the day at this place. 
 The only remarkable object on the route to Zitza 
 is the lake of Lapshista ; a shallow piece of water, 
 which derives a fine character, however, from the 
 precipitous front of the mountain of Metzoukel, 
 forming its eastern boundary. A stream flows into 
 this lake from that of Ioannina, but after making 
 its exit again on the western side, almost immedi- 
 ately disappears in a chasm among the limestone 
 rocks. It comes out again at some distance to join 
 the river Kalama. 
 
 The village of Zitza stands on the edge of a steep 
 declivity, overlooking the deep valley of this river, 
 which is seen here at the distance of nearly 30 miles 
 above the place where I had crossed it on my way 
 to Sullopia. The views from Zitza along this valley, 
 and its great mountain-boundaries, have a wild and 
 irregular magnificence, which forms in some degree
 
 278 WATERFALL OF GLISSANI. 
 
 a peculiar feature of the spot. Lord Byron, who 
 visited the place, has celebrated its scenery in the 
 stanzas of his Childe Harold; and it certainly 
 merits applause, though greatly inferior to many 
 other points of landscape that I have seen in 
 Albania. The village contains only about 120 
 houses, and a Greek monastery. My passport ob- 
 tained a lodging for me in the house of the Codja 
 Bashee of the place, who was extremely anxious 
 that I should report his good services to the Vizier. 
 From Zitza my course lay along the valley of the 
 Kalama, which from this point extends about fif- 
 teen miles, in a direction nearly north and south. 
 In quitting Zitza to descend into the valley, I had 
 a splendid view towards the north-east, of the moun- 
 tains of Zagora, formerly described as a part of the 
 Pindus chain ; the elevated but flattened summits 
 of which, now deeply covered with snow, strongly 
 reminded me of some of the great mountains, called 
 Jokulls, in Iceland. The first remarkable object 
 in the valley of the Kalama was the waterfall of Glis- 
 sani, four miles from Zitza, where the river is preci- 
 pitated over a face of rock 60 or 70 feet in height. 
 This fall is singular from the circumstance that the 
 Kalama, which may here be about as large as the 
 Clyde at Corra-Linn, flows in a placid stream to the 
 very edge of the precipice, down which it falls in a 
 perfectly unbroken sheet of water. The scenery 
 around the cascade is not at all striking, the river 
 flowing here through the subordinate ridges of hill, 
 which traverse the great valley in different direc- 
 8
 
 MONASTERY OF SOSINO. 279 
 
 tions. These hills are all composed of debris from 
 the surrounding chains of mountains, and are of 
 comparatively recent formation. At a short distance 
 above the fall of Glissani, are several smaller cas- 
 cades, formed by different streams into which the 
 river divides itself, in passing through thickets of 
 willows and other shrubs. 
 
 I am not aware that the valley of the Kalama has 
 been examined between this spot, and the place 
 where I crossed it near Paramithia. Much noble 
 mountain-scenery would doubtless be found in the 
 interval, as I judge from the distant views I ob- 
 tained of the country. 
 
 Crossing to the western bank of the river, I con- 
 tinued my route up the valley to the Monastery of 
 Sosino, six miles above Glissani. This monastery 
 stands on the summit of an insulated conical hill, 
 which rises probably more than 500 feet above the 
 valley beneath. Learning that there were some 
 ruins here, I determined to ascend the hill, send- 
 ing forward two of my guards with the baggage- 
 horses. A winding path conducted us to the sum- 
 mit, where, after some hesitation from their alarm* 
 I was kindly received by four or five old monks, 
 the sole inhabitants of the place. I examined the 
 church and interior of the monastery, but found 
 nothing of importance. An inscription near the 
 window of the altar might possibly have explained 
 the date of the building, but time had rendered it 
 illegible. Without the walls of the monastery, and 
 appearing to have included the summit of the hill, 
 
 T 4
 
 280 RUINS AT SOSINO. 
 
 I found the remains of Cyclopian walls, which were 
 doubtless those of a fortress, as the space is not 
 sufficient for any more considerable extent of build- 
 ing. I could discover no inscription, nor did the 
 monks know that any other vestige of antiquity ex- 
 isted on the spot. The view from the monastery 
 shewed me the upper part of the valley of the Ka- 
 lama, spreading out into a wide plain, fertile, popu- 
 lous, and well cultivated. This plain stretches east- 
 wards to the skirts of the mountains of Zagora. To 
 the north it gradually rises in successive ranges of 
 hill, which are terminated by the great mountain of 
 Nemertzka, covering a wide extent of surface, and 
 forming one of the most elevated summits in this 
 part of Albania. 
 
 Having partaken in a repast of rice, honey, and 
 eggs, which the inhabitants of this solitary spot 
 provided for me, I descended from the monastery 
 of Sosino. A mile or two beyond this place, I 
 again left the road, to examine some powder-mills ; 
 the only manufactory of the kind, I believe, in 
 Albania. The nitre and sulphur are brought here 
 by land-carriage ; the charcoal is prepared on the 
 spot. The machinery of the mills is very indiffer- 
 ently constructed, and the powder manufactured 
 of extremely coarse kind. 
 
 The Kalama is chiefly formed from two streams, 
 one descending from the side of Zagora, the other 
 coming from the Lake of Tzerovina. I followed 
 the course of the latter ; ascending its valley, which 
 passes off in a N. W. direction from that along which
 
 LAKE OF TZEROVINA. 281 
 
 we had been travelling. On the ascent of the hills, 
 where the valley turns off in this direction, stands 
 the town of Mosiari, pleasantly situated and sur- 
 rounded by wood. Close to the town is a small 
 Seraglio, which forms occasionally a resting place 
 to the Vizier in his northern journies. At some 
 distance beyond this place, we arrived at the Lake 
 of Tzerovina, a nearly circular pool of water, appa- 
 rently not more than four miles in circumference, 
 but deriving a romantic character from the moun- 
 tains which surround it, or appear in the distant 
 landscape. The village of Tzerovina is situated on 
 an eminence at its lower extremity. This lake is 
 of very great depth ; and vulgar report says, as is 
 frequent in such cases, that there is no bottom. 
 M. Pouqueville stated to me his belief, from the 
 form and depth of the lake, that it must have been 
 anciently a volcanic crater ; but I see no suificient 
 reason for supposing this, as the surrounding hills 
 are all either calcareous, or consisting of loose de- 
 composed materials. The chief circumstance coun- 
 tenancing the opinion is, that a small quantity of 
 sulphur has been found in one of the glens, de- 
 scending to the south side of the lake. With some 
 difficulty I made my way to this spot, which was 
 discovered, it is said, by a flame or smoke seen by 
 some shepherds to issue from the ground. The 
 observation of small portions of sulphur on the sur- 
 face, led to an order from the Vizier that excava- 
 tions should be made here. The result, however, 
 was fruitless. The sulphur was only found en-
 
 282 DELVINAKI. 
 
 crusting some stones superficially, and on going 
 deeper, nothing was discovered to reward the 
 search. At the time I visited the place, the sul- 
 phureous vapours had entirely disappeared, and I 
 found little more than stones decomposed by these 
 vapours, and others covered with a thin film of sul- 
 phur. I shall have occasion hereafter to notice 
 more considerable appearances of the same kind. 
 
 From the lake of Tzerovina, I continued my route 
 some miles further, between high chains of hills ; 
 and then turning to the right, up a narrow and 
 precipitous valley, arrived at the town of Delvinaki, 
 consisting of three or four groupes of houses, sin- 
 gularly situated in a deep recess, where several 
 narrow glens meet together. The town contains 
 nearly 3000 people. The houses, in general, ap- 
 pear neat and comfortable ; and this, although the 
 place has latterly been subject to more than ordi- 
 nary oppression from the Vizier ; who, if the ac- 
 count I received be correct, demands annually 
 140,000 piastres, or about 7000/. from the inhabi- 
 tants. These being for the most part farmers or 
 peasants, are unable to pay more than a part of 
 this nominal sum ; but to increase the burden upon 
 them in another way, a larger proportion than 
 usual of Albanian soldiers are introduced into the 
 town, and quartered upon the people. A respect- 
 able Greek inhabitant, whom I saw here, assured 
 me that this alone imposed upon the place an an- 
 nual tax to the amount of 80,000 piastres. The 
 severity of the Vizier towards Delvinaki, has its
 
 DELVINAKI. 283 
 
 origin, as far as I could learn, in his wish to obtain 
 the proprietorship of the town, which has hitherto 
 been refused by the inhabitants, partly perhaps from 
 the inadequacy of the sum offered for its purchase. 
 While on the one hand this bears the marks of un- 
 warranted oppression, on the other it shews a some- 
 what more regulated despotism than might be ex- 
 pected from other acts of the man. 
 
 Delvinaki has been considered, by some writers, 
 as the ancient Omphalium, one of the cities of 
 Chaonia; but I could hot observe any remains of 
 antiquity upon the spot ; and though the surmise is 
 a possible one, I am not aware of any circumstances 
 which are sufficient to attest it. There is reason 
 to believe, from the description of Livy, that the 
 place called the Castra Pyrrhi was in this vicinity, 
 where Philip, King of Macedon, defeated by T. Q. 
 Flaminius on the banks of the Aous or Viosa, 
 halted the first night of his march towards Mount 
 Lingon. The boundary of the modern Albania, as 
 defined by population and language, is considered 
 to pass through the vicinity of Delvinaki, extending 
 afterwards to the south, to include the district of 
 Suli. The women of this town and the adjacent 
 country are celebrated for their beauty ; a circum- 
 stance which had struck me in the peasants I met on 
 the road, before I heard the remark from others. 
 Their dress is simple : the red Albanian cap on the 
 head, generally decorated with coins ; their hair 
 flowing loosely from beneath; a woollen vest vari- 
 ously coloured ; and a petticoat reaching little be-
 
 ROUTE TO ARGYRO-KASTRO. 
 
 low the knees, with stockings curiously worked in 
 thread of different colours. 
 
 My route from Delvinaki was to the city of 
 Argyro-Kastro ; from this place a journey of seven 
 or eight hours ; and distant from Ioannina about 
 ■fifty miles. We descended again to the direct 
 road, which we had quitted in coming to the town, 
 along a deep chasm, through which a stream runs 
 to join another coming from Nemertzka ; the two 
 united flowing, a few miles below, into the river of 
 Argyro-Kastro. Five miles from Delvinaki we 
 came to the Khan of Xerovaltos, so named from an 
 extensive tract of marshy land adjoining, which 
 has lately been drained by the orders of the 
 Vizier, and brought into a state of rich and profit- 
 able cultivation. This was the first specimen of 
 agricultural improvement, on a large scale, I had 
 seen in Albania. From the basin-like form of the 
 marsh, and the height of the surrounding hills, it 
 may be conjectured, perhaps, that it was formerly 
 a lake ; the waters of which were carried off through 
 some newly-formed channel. 
 
 Ascending a low ridge beyond this place, we 
 came at once in sight of the great plains or vale of 
 Deropuli, stretched out beneath us, and forming a 
 landscape of the most magnificent kind. Of this 
 vale I had a distant view the evening before in ap- 
 proaching Delvinaki ; but the pass of Xerovaltos 
 forms the principal access to it from the south. It 
 gradually extended itself before us, as we continued 
 our route to the village of Palaia-Episcopi, situate
 
 VTEW OF THE VALE OF DEROPULI. 285 
 
 on the declivity of the mountains which form its 
 eastern boundary, at the distance of a mile from 
 the opening of the Pass. At this place I stopped 
 some time to examine an old Greek church, de- 
 riving a very picturesque character from the wood 
 surrounding it. An inscription which I found on 
 the wall purported, if I rightly recollect, that the 
 church was founded by Manuel Comnenus. A 
 poor Greek priest, whom I found on the spot, told 
 me that it had been built many thousand years ago. 
 I reminded him of the date of the Christian reli- 
 gion, to which of course he had nothing to say in 
 reply. 
 
 The view from this point, of the vale of Deropuli, 
 is amongst the finest I have seen in Greece. In 
 the whole landscape there is an openness and mag- 
 nificence, and a simplicity at the same time in its 
 features, which is in some measure characteristic of 
 Grecian scenery. The vale has an uninterrupted 
 rectilinear extent of nearly thirty miles, from 
 8. S. E. to N. N. W. , with a breadth varying from 
 three to six miles. For the whole of this length its 
 boundaries are formed by two vast mountain-ridges, 
 parallel and singularly uniform in their outline ; 
 and, in many places, as I should conceive, not less 
 than 1000 feet in height. The effect of elevation, 
 however, is greatly increased by the abruptness of 
 their declivity, and by the perfect and unbroken 
 level of the valley, even to the very base of the 
 hills. In the eastern ridge particularly, the higher 
 part of the mountain is almost perpendicular to a
 
 286 VALE OF DEROPULI. 
 
 great depth, with a steep and uninterrupted descent 
 afterwards to the level of the plain. Of the chain 
 forming the western barrier, the highest points are 
 to the south, where they are extremely lofty and 
 rugged, and connect themselves with the moun- 
 tains which follow the course of the Kalama. Car- 
 rying the eye northwards along this western chain, 
 two passes are seen through it ; one of which 
 forms the road to Delvino, Butrinto, and other 
 places near the coast of Albania. Still further to 
 the north, the same mountains assume a very sin- 
 gular outline, exhibiting a continuous declivity of 
 almost bare rock, from their summit very nearly to 
 the level of the vale ; this declivity intersected by 
 many deep gullies ; and the intervening ridges ter- 
 minating by bluff faces. The appearance is similar, 
 on a larger scale, to that of the ridge on the cor- 
 responding side of the vale of Paramithia ; while 
 the chain of mountains on the opposite side greatly 
 resembles that between Paramithia and Aia-Glyky. 
 Whether this coincidence, which extends also to 
 the direction of the two vales, and the mineralogi- 
 cal character of the hills, be owing to one and the 
 same physical agency, I will not pretend to deter- 
 mine, but it seems very probable. 
 
 The whole country between Ioannina and Ar- 
 gyro-Kastro is calcareous, and containing a great 
 quantity of flint, generally in the form of layers. 
 In many places the limestone is remarkably slaty 
 in structure ; and there is the appearance of much 
 silex in its composition. The stratification of the
 
 VALE OF DEROPULI. 287 
 
 rock is very distinct in the abrupt terminations of 
 the western ridge, which bounds the vale just de- 
 scribed. 
 
 The common name of this valley-district is De- 
 ropuli ; and the same name is given to the river 
 flowing through it, which sometimes, also, is called 
 the river of Argyro-Kastro, from the situation of 
 this city near its banks.* Its ancient name, until 
 it joins the Viosa near Tepeleni, is not well ascer- 
 tained. It has been called the Celydnus ; but there 
 is more reason to suppose that this river had its 
 course through the country further to the west and 
 north. 
 
 The vale of Deropuli, or Argyro-Kastro, is luxu- 
 riantly fertile in every part of its extent ; and the 
 industry of a numerous population has been exerted 
 in bringing it to a high state of culture. The til- 
 lage here, generally speaking, is remarkable for its 
 neatness. The products are chiefly corn, maize, 
 tobacco, and rice. The quantity of grain produced 
 is very large, and much of it is carried down to the 
 coast for export. The tobacco of this district is in 
 great repute, and generally esteemed the best in 
 Albania. Besides the produce of the plains, the 
 large flocks of sheep, which feed upon the declivity 
 of the mountains, form an important article of pro- 
 pert}, and afford much wool for the coarse manu- 
 factures of the country. 
 
 This great vale is perhaps the most populous dis- 
 
 * The Greeks call a particular place on the western side of 
 the vale by the name of Drinopolis.
 
 288 VALE OF DEROPULL 
 
 trict in Albania. The inhabitants are collected 
 into numerous towns and villages, which are 
 situated on the lower declivity of the mountains 
 on each side ; or on the western side, generally at 
 the opening of the deep glens which descend to the 
 plain. I counted, and obtained the names of nearly 
 thirty of these towns or villages ; the most con- 
 siderable of which, after Argyro-Kastro, is that of 
 Libochovo, containing about 1500 houses : several 
 others contain as many as 500 or 600. Including 
 Argyro-Kastro, it would probably not be too much 
 to estimate the population of this valley at nearly 
 100,000 souls. The situation of many of the 
 towns is very fine ; especially on the eastern side, 
 where the declivity of the hills is covered with 
 wood, and richly cultivated. The Albanians, in- 
 habiting these hills, are generally known among 
 their countrymen, by the name of Liutzides, as 
 one of their distinctions of tribe. The proprietors 
 of the land in the vale reside chiefly in the larger 
 of the towns bordering upon it. The tenure, on 
 which the land is let, is one very common in this 
 country ; the tenant paying to the landlord half 
 the produce of the ground, or its equivalent in 
 value. 
 
 My route lay northwards along the vale to Ar- 
 gyro-Kastro ; and on the western side of the river. 
 A striking object on the opposite side is a great 
 break in the mountains, (the only one in an extent 
 of 20 miles;) through which a large stream flows 
 to join the Deropuli. Through this break, which
 
 UBOCHOVO. RUINS OF THEATRE. 289 
 
 is bounded on each side by immense cliffs, formed 
 by the section of the ridge, is seen the western 
 front of the great mountains of Nemertzka, pre- 
 senting at this time to the eye an unbroken surface 
 of snow. The town of Libochovo stands on the 
 ascent of the mountains, at the entrance of this 
 break. It covers a great extent of surface ; and, 
 like Paramithia, with so much difference of level, 
 that the upper parts of the town are probably 500 
 feet above the lower. The houses, which are many 
 of them large, are surrounded in general by orange, 
 olive, or pomegranate trees, so as to give to the 
 place a very pleasing aspect. There is a large Se- 
 raglio here, inhabited by the only surviving sister 
 of Ali Pasha. It is in an elevated position, and 
 environed by lofty walls. 
 
 Opposite Libochovo, and a little to the right of 
 the road along the western side of the valley, I found 
 the ruins of a small theatre ; probably a Roman 
 edifice, being built in great part of Roman brick, 
 and with cement. The measurement I made of 
 its dimensions was lost with my other papers ; but 
 the building in its best state, must have been 
 small, and of moderate architecture. I sought 
 for inscriptions, or something which might explain 
 its name or history, but could discover nothing. 
 That it was a theatre is perfectly distinct from the 
 ruins ; though the situation, on the dead level of 
 a plain, is not an usual one for such edifices, and 
 there are no remains, as far as 1 know, of any an- 
 cient town in the vicinity. I was surprised to find 
 
 VOL. II. c
 
 290 ARGYRO-KASTRO. 
 
 that no one at Ioannina seemed to be aware of the 
 existence of this ruin. 
 
 I arrived at Argyro-Kastro in the afternoon. This 
 city, one of the largest and most important in Al- 
 bania, is very singularly placed on the declivity of 
 the mountains, on the western side of the valley ; 
 at a place where several deep ravines approach 
 each other. The town consists of several distinct 
 portions ; groupes of houses standing on separate 
 eminences, or covering the summits of the narrow 
 ridges which divide the ravines. The number of ' 
 habitations altogether, is estimated at 4000 j which 
 gives a population of about 20,000 souls. Almost 
 the whole of this population is composed of Turks 
 or Albanians professing the Mahometan religion ; 
 and it is said that there are not more than 140 Greek 
 families in the city. 
 
 The situation of Argyro-Kastro, on a surface so 
 extremely unequal, gives an air of magnificence to 
 the place ; which effect is increased by the size of 
 some of the principal Turkish houses of the city. 
 Upon the central ridge of the three, on which the 
 greater part of the town is situated, stands the new 
 castle ; which, when completed, will be a building 
 of great extent, and very strong in reference to 
 Turkish warfare. When Ali Pasha obtained pos- 
 session of Argyro-Kastro, in the early part of 1812, 
 he commenced this work, on the site of the old 
 castle ; and has carried it on since that period with 
 extreme rapidity ; nearly 2000 labourers being con- 
 stantly occupied on the spot. This is a favourite
 
 
 ■ ; r-"^= 
 
 H% 
 
 w%
 
 ARGYRO-KASTRO. 291 
 
 object with him ; and before I quitted Ioannina, 
 he repeatedly desired me to pay attention to it, and 
 to suggest any thing which I thought might im- 
 prove the work. Within the castle, he is erecting 
 also a new Seraglio on a large scale ; and it is 
 probable that, hereafter, he will every year spend 
 some time at this place. 
 
 The conquest of Argyro-Kastro, and its annexed 
 territory, I formerly mentioned as being of much 
 importance to the interests of Ali Pasha. His war 
 with Ibrahim Pasha delayed this event till the 
 winter of 1811-12; when, without much blood-shed, 
 he obtained possession both of this district, and of 
 the Pashalik of Delvino to the west ; thereby 
 rendering his dominions more compact ; obtaining 
 a considerable extent of sea-coast ; several large 
 and populous towns ; and a great increase of re- 
 venue. Previously to his attack upon Argyro- 
 Kastro, he had contrived, under various pretences, 
 to inveigle away the bravest and most warlike of 
 the inhabitants ; in consequence of which, the 
 city surrendered after a short and inefficient con- 
 test. The Bey of the place was taken as a prisoner 
 to Ioannina ; where, I was told, that he still re- 
 mained in captivity, as well as his neighbour Mus- 
 tapha Pasha of Delvino. Not only the political 
 power, but all the property of the city, was sur- 
 rendered to Ali Pasha ; on which account, the im- 
 mediate taxes, levied upon the place, are by no 
 means so great as upon many other cities in his do- 
 minions. The acquisition of this territory has 
 
 u 2
 
 292 SALI BEY. 
 
 naturally afforded him much gratification, and he 
 repeatedly spoke to me of it in a manner which 
 strikingly evinced this. His youngest and favourite 
 son, Sali Bey, has been sent to reside in Argyro- 
 Kastro ; nominally as the governor, though not 
 more than eleven years of age. This has probably 
 been done with the view of accustoming him to 
 the usages of the Albanians, whom he may here- 
 after command, and also to preserve him from the 
 greater effeminacy of an Ioannina life. 
 
 On my arrival at Argyro-Kastro, I went directly 
 to the castle, and waited upon Hassan Aga the 
 commandant of the place, and governor of Sali 
 Bey. He is a native of Tepeleni ; an elderly man, 
 but of masculine and striking appearance. In his 
 apartment I found four or five of the principal 
 Turks of the city, habited with great richness ; 
 one of whom seemed to be a person placed here to 
 attend and direct the education of Sali Bey. The 
 approaches to the apartment were crowded with 
 Albanian soldiers. I had particular letters from 
 the Vizier to Hassan Aga, who received me with 
 much attention ; appointed me a lodging with one 
 of the first Greek families of the place ; and in the 
 course of the evening sent me by his attendants, 
 a present of two sheep, two loaves of sugar, and 
 a large bag of coffee. 
 
 From his apartment I went to visit Sali Bey, who 
 had expressed a desire to see me. I found him in 
 a room neither large nor splendid ; a part, perhaps, 
 of the policy of his education. He was surrounded
 
 SALI BET. 293 
 
 by a groupe of Albanians, remarkable from their 
 size and rugged masculine aspect ; most of them 
 standing bare-footed before their young master, 
 but otherwise richly dressed and armed. The 
 youth had risen before I entered the apartment, to 
 receive me standing. Having exchanged salutations, 
 we sat down, and he then received the reverences 
 of my guards, who, advancing in succession from the 
 other end of the room, bowed themselves twice 
 forwards before they reached his couch, touching 
 the ground each time with their hands ; then, when 
 they came up to him, put one knee to the floor, and 
 kissing his robe, raised his hand and touched their 
 foreheads with it. It was amusing to see the air 
 of juvenile majesty, with which the young Bey 
 received their obeisances ; as if long accustomed 
 to command. He was habited in a purple pelisse ; 
 on his head the red Albanian cap ; in his belt a 
 dagger and pistols, adapted to his size, and richly 
 ornamented. His countenance was animated and 
 intelligent, somewhat resembling that of his father, 
 particularly in the forehead. His manner too, was 
 much more formed than is usual at this age ; an 
 air of manliness and independence about it, with- 
 out any childish intrusiveness. He asked, soon 
 after I came in, several pertinent questions re- 
 specting England ; its distance from Albania, and 
 my travels in the latter country. He then allowed 
 the conversation to be taken up by his Turkish 
 governor, continuing to listen attentively to all 
 that was said. This Turk, who was a man of some
 
 294 SALI BEY. 
 
 intelligence, renewed the subject of England ; 
 and asked various questions respecting the number 
 and population of our cities ; the size of London, 
 &c. ; generally following my answers by some com- 
 parison with similar objects in Turkey ; more fairly 
 made, however, than is usual with the people of 
 this country. During the conversation, coffee and 
 pipes were brought round by the attendants, to all 
 except Sali Bey, who had not yet taken up the 
 luxury of the Turkish pipe. 
 
 The education of this young boy, if he lives 
 to have command in Albania, is probably well 
 adapted to his future life. At Argyro-Kastro, be- 
 sides hardening himself by manly exercises, he is 
 acquiring knowledge of the Romaic, Turkish, and 
 Albanian, the three languages spoken by his fa- 
 ther's subjects. His mother resides in the Seraglio 
 at Tepeleni, twenty miles from Argyro-Kastro. I 
 was informed that she was rarely allowed to receive 
 visits from her son, from the fear that she might 
 weaken him by ill-timed indulgences. The destin- 
 ation which the Vizier gives to Sali Bey in the 
 future government of Albania, I have no means of 
 knowing ; and the future fortune of the latter will 
 probably depend in great measure on the length of 
 his father's life, and on the situation of his half- 
 brothers, Mouctar and Veli Pasha, at the time of 
 Ali's decease.. 
 
 From the castle I descended to the lodging ap- 
 pointed for me, along streets so steep, that it was 
 necessary to dismount from horseback to proceed
 
 GREEKS OF ARGYRO-KASTRO. 295 
 
 with safety. This is the case throughout a great 
 part of the city, so singular is its situation among 
 ridges and acclivities. My Greek host and his 
 family received me with a multitude of attentions; 
 and in the course of the evening several other 
 Greeks of the city came in to visit me. These 
 people have a courteous and agreeable manner 
 towards strangers, which I have scarcely seen 
 equalled elsewhere. A quickness of comprehension 
 belongs to the Greek, which enables him speedily 
 to see, and adapt himself to varieties of character ; 
 a trait which is doubtless in great part, though not 
 wholly, derived from their long and severe political 
 subjection. It is by his quickness and facility in 
 these points that he is able to meet and counteract 
 his Turkish oppressors, and to acquire an influence 
 over them, which even affects many of the public 
 concerns of the Turkish empire. 
 
 My host spoke much to me of the improvement 
 in the situation of the Greeks of Argyro-Kastro, 
 since the possession of the place by Ali Pasha, 
 owing to the suppression of the inordinate power of 
 the Turks in the city. This might possibly be very 
 true, — but there was some reason to believe the 
 statement an interested one, as it was accompanied 
 with a solicitation from my host that I would speak 
 in his favour to the Vizier. 
 
 In consequence of Ali Pasha's desire, I visited 
 with some attention the different parts of the new 
 works at the castle. The hill, on which these stand, 
 approaches at the summit to a very narrow ridge, 
 
 u 4-
 
 29G CASTLE OF ARGYRO-K ASTRO. 
 
 so as to render the included area of the castle very 
 long and narrow. The walls of the new edifice 
 were now completed in the greater part of their 
 extent, though scarcely nine months had elapsed 
 since the buildings were begun. They are of great 
 thickness, but like most of the undertakings of the 
 Vizier of similar kind, have been executed too 
 rapidly, as appears in various parts of the work. 
 His temper is one that does not endure long delay, 
 and the bidding and execution are required to go 
 nearly together. Though the position of the castle 
 is on high and steep ground, it appears to be com- 
 manded by some of the neighbouring heights, on 
 which parts of the town are situated. I mentioned 
 this to Ali Pasha on my return to Ioannina ; but it 
 was not easy to make him understand all the effects of 
 European artillery in the conduct of a siege. Seve- 
 ral of the guns which I saw lying within the fortress, 
 ready to be mounted, were of English manufacture. 
 
 Of the new Seraglio which the Vizier is building 
 here, the Haram is the only part in an advanced 
 state, but this too has been executed with a very 
 unreasonable rapidity, — even the painting of some 
 of the apartments being already completed. It is 
 in the usual style of Turkish palaces, and might 
 have been handsome, but for the trifling gaudiness 
 of the interior decorations, which are utterly in- 
 consistent with good taste, and in general executed 
 in a careless manner. 
 
 On the 15th, after making another visit to the 
 Commandant, Hassan Aga, I continued my jour-
 
 MASSACRE OF THE GARDIKIOTES. 297 
 
 ney. The direct route from Argyro-Kastro to 
 Tepeleni would have been down the valley of the 
 Deropuli, which, a few miles to the north of the 
 former city, loses its character of a broad and luxu- 
 riant plain, and is suddenly contracted by the ap- 
 proach of the mountains towards each other. By 
 the direction of the Vizier, however, I took a 
 circuitous route to Gardiki, the unfortunate city 
 which he destroyed in the spring of 1812, and 
 which I should scarcely have thought of visiting, 
 had he not himself admitted this as a point in my 
 journey. When giving the reader a sketch of the 
 life of Ali Pasha, J briefly alluded to this melan- 
 choly event, and to the cause which produced it 
 at so very distant a period of time. * As it forms, 
 however, the latest circumstance in the history of 
 Ali, and one that strongly illustrates his character, 
 I shall give the narrative more in detail, as I re- 
 ceived it from persons who were eye-witnesses to 
 many parts of the event. 
 
 Gardiki was a large city, about ten miles to the 
 west or north-west of Argyro-Kastro; with a popu- 
 lation of Turks and Albanians, who had much 
 property in the surrounding country, and were 
 extremely independent and warlike in their habits. 
 In the early part of Ali Pasha's life, when his 
 chief support was the zeal and resolution of his 
 mother, the Gardikiotes became his enemies, and 
 endeavoured to dispossess him of his small terri- 
 tory. On a certain occasion, when, with his mother 
 
 * Sec Vol. i. p. 2S0.
 
 298 MASSACRE OF THE GARDIKIOTES. 
 
 and sister, he was passing the night at some village 
 in this part of the country, they laid a plot for 
 surprising him and taking away his life. Ali with 
 difficulty escaped, but his mother and sister were 
 made prisoners, and conducted to Gardiki ; where, 
 after being exposed for thirty days to various out- 
 rages, particularly offensive to the usage of the 
 Turks with respect to women, they were ignomi- 
 niously sent away. This event never left the re- 
 collection of the family. His mother, it is said, 
 did not cease, as long as she lived, to urge him to 
 accomplish some work of revenge ; and the in- 
 fluence she had over his mind was aided by his 
 own temper, and by the opposition the Gardikiotes 
 continued to offer to his growing power. 
 
 The situation however of Gardiki, and the pro- 
 tection afforded to this city by the Pashas of Berat 
 and Delvino, made it impracticable for Ali to exe- 
 cute his designs till the beginning of 1812, when 
 the subjugation of Argyro-Kastro, Delvino, &c. 
 enabled him to surround Gardiki with his troops, 
 and thus to prevent the escape of the inhabitants. 
 It is not impossible that he might have taken 
 the place before, but in this case many of them 
 would have escaped, and he would have been foiled 
 in his full work of vengeance. Previously to his 
 attack, he had contrived, by delusive means, to 
 retain almost all the Gardikiotes within the city, 
 with the expectation that they should not suffer 
 more than the other conquered territory. His 
 troops, to the number, it is said, of about 15,000,
 
 MASSACRE OF THE GARDIKIOTES. 299 
 
 having surrounded the place, orders were given to 
 attack it. The Turkish officers of his army, — 
 either in consequence of the vigorous defence of 
 the people, or because they were unwilling to take 
 a city, in the safety of which the Porte had directly 
 interested itself, and where the inhabitants, though 
 Mussulmans, were likely to be eventually sacrificed, 
 — delayed their operations, and made little pro- 
 gress in the siege. The Vizier, it appears, had 
 begun to be irritated by this tardiness, when Atha- 
 nasius Bia came forward, and offered with a certain 
 number of Albanians, to take the place by storm ; 
 though its position on the acclivity of a conical hill, 
 rendered this an enterprize of much difficulty. His 
 offer was accepted, and a single night put Gardiki 
 into the Vizier's hands, after an interval of more than 
 40years from the commission of the original offence. 
 The inhabitants, who might be 5000 or 6000 in 
 number, were at first distributed into different places 
 in the vicinity, with the exception of 36 of the 
 Beys and principal people, who were sent to Ioan- 
 nina. On the morning of the 15th of March, 
 exactly one year before the day when I visited the 
 remains of Gardiki, nearly 800 of the Gardikiotes 
 were brought into the area of a large Khan, a few 
 miles to the north-cast of Argyro-Kastro. The 
 Vizier himself came in his carriage to the gate of 
 the Khan, which was every-where surrounded by 
 his troops. The names of a certain number of the 
 Gardikiotes were called out, who were allowed to 
 depart from the area, and transported, with the
 
 300 MASSACRE OF THE GARDIKIOTES. 
 
 remainder of their countrymen, into a sort of 
 slavery in other parts of Albania. Those left 
 within the Khan, who are said to have been about 
 730 in number, were tied together with cords, to 
 prevent the efforts that might be suggested by de- 
 spair. They were all men ; and selected, as it ap- 
 pears, either as having actually been in Gardiki at 
 the time when the mother and sister of Ali were 
 imprisoned there, or as the direct descendants of 
 those who bore part in the outrage. Orders were 
 given to the soldiers who surrounded them, stand- 
 ing on the high walls of the Khan, that when a 
 signal was made by the report of a fusil, they should 
 fire upon the prisoners in the area. This fusil is 
 said to have been discharged by the Vizier himself, 
 as he sat in his carriage. The work of slaughter 
 instantly began, and was continued without inter- 
 mission, either by the musket or sabre, til] not a 
 single one of the Gardikiotes remained alive. The 
 fate of some was delayed a short time by their 
 escape into certain wooden buildings within the 
 area. The Vizier, however, who remained on the 
 spot till the whole was completed, ordered fire to 
 be put round these buildings, which drove the un- 
 happy victims from their place of concealment. 
 Some of them becoming desperate, took up stones, 
 with which they wounded several of the soldiers em- 
 ployed in their destruction. At length, they all lay 
 on the ground ; every opening to the area was closed 
 up ; and the bodies were left without burial, to attest 
 yet more strongly the vengeance which led to the act.
 
 MASSACRE OF THE GARDIKIOTES. 301 
 
 On the same day, the 36 Gardikiotes, who had 
 been carried to Ioannina, and treated there with a 
 delusive kindness, were transported to the other 
 side of the lake, and shared the same fate as the 
 rest. Even here the work was not wholly com- 
 pleted. I was informed that one or two of the prin- 
 cipal inhabitants of Gardiki, who had been absent at 
 the time this city was taken, were afterwards se- 
 duced to return ; were murdered ; and their bodies 
 sent to the spot where the others had perished. 
 
 In returning to Ioannina from the north, I visited 
 the Khan where this melancholy event took place. 
 One of my Albanian guards, Constantine, had been 
 among the soldiers employed in the destruction of 
 the Gardikiotes ; a circumstance of which he spoke 
 with much seeming unconcern as respected himself; 
 but with an air of alacrity or even of pride, as a testi- 
 mony of the power and temper of his ferocious mas- 
 ter. I found the area closed by high walls on every 
 side. Over the former gate a stone tablet appeared ; 
 on which were inscribed a number of Romaic verses, 
 commemorating the event. This inscription, placed 
 here by the orders of the Vizier, I could not read, 
 from its height above the ground ; but I was told 
 that it related several of the circumstances of the 
 story ; and concluded by stating, that such should 
 be the fate of all who had injured the family of Ali 
 Pasha. With some difficulty I got over the walls 
 into the area ; I found every-where, scattered 
 upon the surface, the remains of the unfortunate 
 victims who perished on the spot, as well as other
 
 302 MASSACRE OF THE GARDIKIOTES. 
 
 memorials of the manner in which this massacre 
 was effected. 
 
 It would appear that AH Pasha, if not consider- 
 ing this act as a meritorious one, in reference to 
 the memory of his mother, yet certainly was insen- 
 sible to any odium attaching to it. Besides the in- 
 scription just referred to, the event is fully recorded 
 in a poetical history of his life, to which he has given 
 a sanction for publication. Nor is it likely he would 
 have directed me to the places bearing visible testi- 
 mony to it, had he been assured that the action would 
 have been of bad repute to an European judgment. 
 
 The route from Argyro-Kastro to Gardiki, car- 
 ried me round the northern extremity of the great 
 ridge, which forms the western boundary of the 
 vale of the Deropuli. This extremity is striking 
 from its abruptness, and from its complete conical 
 form, when seen in front. On the declivity of 
 these mountains, to the north of Argyro-Kastro, is 
 the large town of Maschuri, with several smaller vil- 
 lages ; most of which have greatly suffered, and some 
 of them been wholly destroyed, from their connec- 
 tion with the Gardikiotes. A singular natural pheno- 
 menon occurs at a place called Vero, in the same vi- 
 cinity ; where a river, quite as large as the Avon at 
 Bath, bursts at once from the ground, and falling over 
 a platform of rock some feet in height, joins the De- 
 ropuli half a mile below. The small circular pool, out 
 of which this river rises, at the foot of a limestone 
 cliff, is of such depth, that the issue of this great body 
 of water scarcely produces a ripple on the surface.
 
 GARDIKI. - 303 
 
 At the termination of the mountains, just noticed, 
 a valley opens to the west, bringing down a small 
 river to join that of Argyro-Kastro. Following 
 the course of this stream for a few miles, we came 
 in sight of Gardiki ; situated on the steep acclivity 
 of a double conical hill, with high mountains in the 
 immediate back-ground ; the castle crowning one 
 summit of the hill ; on the other nearly a thou- 
 sand houses, all built of stone, lofty, and deriving 
 an air of magnificence from their situation. As I 
 looked upon Gardiki in the distance, it appeared to 
 me one of the finest towns I had seen in Turkey. 
 The near approach to it, was a mournful contra- 
 diction to the distant aspect. None of the usual 
 busy sounds of a city met the ear ; but there was a 
 desolate stillness and silence, which gave an im- 
 pression I shall not easily forget. I entered the 
 streets ; all here was vacant and deserted. The 
 doors and windows of the houses were open ; but no 
 living sound came from within. The ruins of an 
 ancient city display the hand of time, gradually work- 
 ing its decline; but this shewed itself as the effect 
 of some sudden calamity, which at once had fallen 
 upon the place ; bringing to mind the enchanted 
 city in one of the Arabian tales, where, as a pu- 
 nishment, all the inhabitants had been changed 
 into stone. It would not be easy, indeed, to rind 
 a fitter subject for melancholy, that a city still re- 
 taining the exterior of all that denotes it such ; but 
 the inhabitants of which have suddenly and en- 
 tirely disappeared.
 
 304 ROUTE TO TEPELENI. 
 
 As I walked through the silent streets, I saw a 
 few peasants here and there employed in taking 
 down the wooden beams of the larger houses, 
 to transport them to the new Seraglio at Argyro- 
 Kastro. The Vizier, it seems, has thrown a curse 
 upon the place, and will not allow it, as long 
 as his own power remains, to become again the ha- 
 bitation of man. The Gardikiotes who escaped 
 from death, were dispersed among different towns, 
 many of them to Prevesa, and Vonitza ; and none 
 have been permitted to resume their habitations in 
 the depopulated city. 
 
 From Gardiki I returned down the river, to the 
 place where it forms its junction with the Deropuli ; 
 with the view of examining a ruin on a flat pen- 
 insula at the confluence of the two streams. A 
 square area, each side of which may be about 60 
 yards, is enclosed by a wall of Roman brick of con- 
 siderable thickness. The situation and form indi- 
 cate some fortress, or point of defence ; but nothing 
 further remains, to illustrate the former history of 
 the spot. Adjoining it is the village of Neochori ; 
 lately built by the command of the Vizier, in con- 
 sequence of the destruction of the inhabitants, who 
 before cultivated the lands in this district. 
 
 I slept at Stipesi, a small village near the place 
 where the river quits the broad valley of Argyro- 
 Kastro, to enter the more contracted defiles, through 
 which it flows northwards, to join the Viosa near 
 Tepeleni. The mountains, contracting the valley, 
 .are in fact a continuation of those which previously
 
 VIEW NEAR IT. 305 
 
 bounded it ; but here without any intervening level. 
 They do not, however, form precipitous cliffs in 
 their whole ascent ; but rising steeply for two or 
 three miles from the river, are terminated towards 
 their summit, by abrupt ridges of great height. 
 Several towns and villages appear on their declivity j 
 the largest of which is Lekli, the native place of 
 Athanasius and Lucas Bia, the favourite, and the 
 physician of Ali Pasha. The former has a large 
 house, and much property, in this district. 
 
 As a landscape, the approach to Tepeleni is 
 noble. A mile or two to the south of the town is 
 the confluence of the Deropuli and the Viosa, 
 forming in their junction a river not less than 250 
 yards in width, rapid and deep. This river retains 
 the name of Viosa to the sea ; a derivation doubtless 
 from that of Aous, which was the ancient name of 
 the stream. The branch, which is called Viosa, 
 previously to the junction of the tw r o rivers, de- 
 scends towards Tepeleni from the south-east ; ap- 
 proaching its point of confluence through the vast 
 mountain-defiles of Klissoura, — a scenery full of 
 boldness and majesty. This river rises by several 
 streams from the Pindus chain, in the country to 
 the north of Metzovo. Flowing in a direction north 
 and west, it receives streams from Tzekel, iSama- 
 rina, and other parts of the same chain, passes 
 through the mountainous district called Chara- 
 moutates, and by the large town of Konitza situated 
 near its right bank. The mountains of Chara- 
 moutates may all be considered as branches of 
 
 VOL. II. x
 
 306 TEPELENI. 
 
 Pindus, connected with Nemertzka, and the other 
 ridges to the west. * This district is said to contain 
 about thirty Albanian villages ; the inhabitants of 
 which were formerly Christians, but for the most 
 part have become Mahometans during the last 
 century. I heard an anecdote regarding one of 
 these villages, the name of which I do not re- 
 collect ; — that, on some day of festival, after the 
 service of the Greek church was over, the people 
 assembled round their priests ; told them that they 
 and their fathers had been praying in this form for 
 one year after another ; that they found their si- 
 tuation in no degree bettered by it ; and that they 
 were determined, in a body, to change their re- 
 ligion ; insisting, moreover, that the priests them- 
 selves should follow their example. 
 
 Lower down than Charamoutates, the Viosa 
 passes the town of Permeti, containing about 700 
 houses ; and flowing through the defiles of Klis- 
 soura, forms its junction with the river of Argyro- 
 Kastro, just above Tepeleni. The latter town, the 
 birth-place of Ali Pasha, is situated on the western 
 or left bank of the river ; on a lofty peninsular 
 eminence, formed by the junction of the Bentza 
 with the Viosa. The great Seraglio of the Vizier, 
 almost equal in extent to that of Ioannina, stands on 
 the brow of a rock, impending over the waters of 
 the latter river. A large mosque is near to it ; and 
 
 * I was told that in the district of Charamoutates, there are 
 some appearances of sulphur and inflammable vapour, probably 
 resembling those near Mosinri.
 
 TEPELENI. 307 
 
 below are the remains of a bridge, destroyed by 
 the violence of the winter-floods in the Viosa. 
 This bridge has been broken down two or three 
 times, notwithstanding many efforts of the Vizier 
 to render it durable. It was last carried away by 
 the floods in 1812 ; and no attempts have since 
 been made to repair it. When I returned to Ioan- 
 nina, AH Pasha asked my opinion on the subject. 
 I represented to him generally that I thought him 
 too rapid in the execution of all such undertakings ; 
 and proposed at the same time a bridge of boats, as 
 being on the whole best adapted to the place. He 
 said that this had before been suggested, but that 
 he wished to erect some more durable monument 
 of himself at the place of his nativity. He had 
 been told, he added, by some European engineer, 
 that it was impossible ; but still he was anxious to 
 attempt it, should there be a chance of success. 
 
 The town of Tepeleni is small and wretched ; 
 and the Seraglio, and occasional residence of the 
 Vizier, alone give consequence to it. There is a 
 vulgar superstition existing here, that the place is 
 destined not to contain more than a hundred houses ; 
 and that every one erected beyond this number is 
 destroyed by some misfortune. This belief is sin- 
 gular in a town where double this number might 
 easily be counted. The population is almost ex- 
 clusively of Albanians ; many of whom, from the 
 partiality of AH to his birth-place, and his confi- 
 dence in their attachment, have obtained valuable 
 offices in different parts of his dominions. 
 
 x 2
 
 308 YUSUF AGA. 
 
 I proceeded to the Seraglio, to deliver my letters 
 to Yusuf Aga, who commands here in the absence 
 of the Vizier. This man, a Moor by birth, is one 
 of the most confidential servants of Ali Pasha, and 
 possesses an authority in this district which is only 
 controuled by that of his master. He has obtained 
 this influence, less perhaps from the length of his 
 services, (though he has been with Ali from the 
 boyhood of the latter,) than from a ferocity of 
 temper which has made him capable of any service 
 required of him. It was this man, as I learnt on 
 good authority, who, twenty years ago, roasted 
 alive a person that had rendered himself odious to 
 the Vizier, and murdered his whole family ; an 
 anecdote to which I formerly referred. Only a few 
 days before my arrival at Tepeleni, Yusuf had 
 stabbed a man with his own hand ; on what account 
 I had not the means of learning. This sanguinary 
 being is now not less than ninety years of age. His 
 trust at Tepeleni is a very important one ; a large 
 portion of the treasure of the Vizier, being de- 
 posited, as it is said, at this place. I found him 
 sitting in a small and dirty apartment of the Se- 
 raglio ; meanly dressed himself, but surrounded by 
 numerous, and richly dressed Albanian guards. 
 . Seven or eight dogs and cats were running about 
 the room ; some of the dogs covered with cloth 
 jackets. There was something strangely uncouth 
 about the whole scene ; particularly in the old man 
 himself, who, bending as he was from age, yet in- 
 spired a sort of terror from his dark and strongly
 
 SERAGLIO OF TEPELENI. 309 
 
 contracted face, and the occasional mixture of 
 savasceness and dissimulation in his features. He 
 received me, however, with great attention, read 
 the letter of the Vizier, and told me that he was 
 ordered to give every assistance to my journey. 
 Watching his face, while he was reading, I was at 
 one moment a little alarmed by a sudden look he 
 directed towards me, which was immediately fol- . 
 lowed by his whispering to an Albanian soldier who 
 stood near him. This man left the apartment, and 
 did not again return. There was probably nothing 
 in this, and I might not have observed it but for the 
 peculiar expression of the old Aga at the time. 
 
 Having sat with him half an hour, he directed 
 his attendants to take me to an apartment, which had 
 been prepared for me in one of the great galleries. 
 The Seraglio of Tepeleni is on the site of that 
 which originally belonged to Veli Pasha, the father 
 of Ali. Some of the rooms in it are of great size, 
 and sumptuously adorned ; but the chief peculiarity 
 is its fine situation, overhanging the river Viosa, 
 and surrounded by the mountain-ridges which form 
 the valley of this river, and of the Bentza. The 
 Haram, which, from its exterior, appears to be very 
 extensive, is on the northern side of the Seraglio ; 
 every-where guarded by lofty walls, and particularly 
 where it is open to the valley of the Bentza. Here 
 the wife of Ali Pasha, mother of Sali Bey, has her 
 residence ; together with sixty other females, chiefly 
 in the capacity of her attendants. This lady, when 
 it was made known to her that I was a friend of 
 
 x 3
 
 310 DINNER FROM THE HARAM. 
 
 the Vizier, sent to compliment me on my arrival, 
 and to express her intention of preparing a dinner 
 for me. In consequence of this message, I was 
 obliged to continue fasting for two or three hours, 
 fearful of doing any thing which might seem incor- 
 rect in relation to the intended compliment. At 
 the expiration of this time, I saw the gates opening, 
 which conduct to the enclosure of the Haram ; 
 and several black slaves appeared, bearing a long 
 succession of dishes towards my apartment in the 
 gallery. The table apparatus was, as usual, simple 
 in the extreme ; consisting of little more than a tray, 
 napkins, two or three spoons, and a single fork. 
 About twenty dishes were successively set before 
 me. The meats, chiefly mutton or fowl, were 
 prepared for the most part in the form of stews : in 
 the sweet dishes, honey was a principal ingredient, 
 according to the Turkish custom. One large glass 
 vessel upon the table was filled with milk and al- 
 monds. While at dinner, a man came in, an Italian 
 by birth, who had been with the French armies in 
 Spain ; had been taken prisoner by the English, 
 entered into the Corsican Rangers, and deserted 
 from Santa Maura to the coast of Albania. He now, 
 together with another Italian of the same fortunes, 
 superintends the gardens of the Vizier at Tepeleni, 
 receiving in this situation a piastre a-day, besides 
 his food and clothing. 
 
 After dinner I conveyed to the Haram, through 
 Yusuf Aga, my acknowledgments for the honour 
 done me by the wife of the Vizier. In the evening,
 
 NIVITZA. 311 
 
 a splendid apparel of bed-clothes was sent me from 
 the same quarter, which, as usual, were spread on 
 one of the sophas of the apartment. The outer 
 covering was of purple velvet, very richly worked 
 with gold embroidery. The sheets, which were of 
 muslin, had long fringes ; in addition to which, 
 flowers were here and there worked in them, with 
 variously coloured threads, producing an effect much 
 more agreeable to the sense of sight than to that of 
 touch. I had no other means of making acknow- 
 ledgment for these favours, but by conveying to the 
 lady some compliments on the personal and intel- 
 lectual qualities of her son Sali Bey, to whom she is 
 represented to be ardently attached. 
 
 The Bentza, the river which joins the Viosa at 
 Tepeleni, rises among the high mountains to the 
 west of this place, and flows through a very profound 
 valley, contracted by cliffs of immense height, 
 which display a beautiful stratification of the lime- 
 stone composing them. The village of Bentza has 
 an extraordinary situation at the foot of these cliffs, 
 two or three miles above Tepeleni. Some miles 
 higher up the valley, and likewise in a very singular 
 position, is the town of Nivitza, containing more 
 than 600 houses. At this place there are consider- 
 able ruins, which, from the description, 1 judge to 
 be of Cyclopian structure, and belonging to one of 
 the ancient Chaonian cities. In the same moun- 
 tainous region, there are several other villages, 
 chiefly peopled by shepherds, the flocks being very 
 large and numerous upon these mountains. I was 
 
 x I
 
 312 ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY OF THIS DISTRICT. 
 
 informed that nearly 30,000 sheep belong to the 
 village of Bentza alone, and a proportionate num- 
 ber to other places in the vicinity. 
 
 The ancient geography of this district labours 
 under the same obscurity as other parts of the in- 
 terior of Epirus. The identity of the river Viosa, 
 with the Aous or Aias of antiquity, may be regarded 
 indeed as certain j but the site of Antigonia, 
 Phcenice, Hecatompedon, and other cities of this 
 region, can by no means be equally fixed. Meletius 
 has spoken of Argyro-Kastro as corresponding with 
 the position of Antigonia. I am not aware of any 
 remains on the spot to prove this ; but if it is con- 
 sidered that the contracted part of the valley be- 
 tween Argyro-Kastro and Tepeleni forms the Stena 
 or Pass, which is described by Livy and Polybius 
 as near Antigonia, then it is possible that the opinion 
 may be an accurate one. * From the description of 
 Livy, in his account of the warfare of the Romans 
 with the last Philip of Macedon, in this part of 
 Epirus, it is certainly probable that this is the pass 
 referred to ; though it is also possible that it may 
 be the defile pf Klissura, and the mountains iEropus 
 and Asnaus those which are actually seen, forming 
 the boundaries of this defile. The contracted passes, 
 however, of the two rivers, near their junction, are 
 so entirely formed in the same range of mountains, 
 that the question is of little importance ; and the 
 
 * Polybius speaks of this Pass as the ?t»» ■&<*.$ Ainymttuv r£vw. 
 Lib. ii. 5. Livy uses the expression, " ad occupandas quae ad 
 Antigoniam fauces sunt : sthenu vocant Grseci." Lib. xxxii. c. 5.
 
 ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY OF THIS DISTRICT. 313 
 
 narrative Livy gives of the surprise, defeat, and 
 flight of Philip, before the army of Flaminius, is 
 easily comprehended from the general topography 
 of the spot. * 
 
 I should venture, though with caution, to sur- 
 mise from a passage in Polybius (lib. ii. c. 5.) that 
 the site of Phocnice, which he describes as one of 
 the strongest and most powerful cities of Epirus, 
 may have been somewhere in the district adjoining 
 Tepeleni. The modern Albanian name of the dis- 
 trict, which includes Tepeleni, is taken from that 
 of the tribe inhabiting it. This tribe, called the 
 Toskides, occupy the country on both sides of the 
 Yiosa, from its junction with the river of Argyro- 
 Kastro to its mouth ; stretching northwards also, so 
 as to include Berat, Durazzo, and the extensive 
 plains which here border upon the Adriatic sea. N 
 
 * See also, in reference to the situation of this pass, Plutarch 
 in vit. Flaminii.
 
 314 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM TEPELENI. LOPESI. LUNETZI. — CAR- 
 
 BONARA. RUINS AT GRADISTA. LATIN INSCRIPTION. 
 
 LOSS OF PAPERS. MONASTERY OF POLLINA. RUINS 
 
 OF APOLLONIA. — AVLONA. — ACROCERAUNIAN MOUN- 
 TAINS. — PITCH MINES OF SCLENITZA. — ANCIENT ORACLE 
 OF NYMPH2EUM. — RETURN TO TEPELENI. — JOURNEY TO 
 IOANNINA. 
 
 1 quitted Tepeleni to descend along the valley of 
 the Viosa, with a view of examining the ruins of 
 Apollonia, near the mouth of this river, and other 
 places of interest in the same district. In com- 
 pliance with the direction of the Vizier, Yusuf 
 Aga appointed an Albanian officer, named Martino> 
 to attend me on this journey, as a person who well 
 knew the country. He joined my party well 
 dressed, armed, and mounted, bringing with him 
 an attendant to carry his luggage. 
 
 Crossing the Bentza, half a mile from Tepeleni, 
 by a fine bridge of one large arch, recently erected, 
 we took a northerly direction between the foot of 
 the mountains and the Viosa, an interval of three 
 or four miles, occupied by a plain, or by low 
 secondary hills. This ridge of mountains, con- 
 nected with those of the valley of the Bentza, has 
 here the name of Argenik ; the district stretching 
 down to the river is called Lopesi, — a tract of 
 country very populous, and containing many large
 
 LOPESI. 315 
 
 villages, which, for the most part, have very pic- 
 turesque situations on the declivity of the moun- 
 tains. The Albanians inhabiting it are brave, 
 warlike, and strongly attached to the person and 
 interests of Ali Pasha. Before I left Ioannina, the 
 Vizier spoke to me of this people, describing them 
 as av0£ce7ro» ayqioi, [xx waXixaooi xa» ■sns-oi, " men rude in 
 their habits, but valorous and faithful." He passed 
 much of his youth among them, and to their ser- 
 vices was greatly indebted for his safety, in this 
 turbulent period of his life. 
 
 Two miles from Tepeleni, I stopped to examine 
 some ruins on the summit of an insulated hill, 
 between the ridge of Argenik, and a lower ridge 
 descending to the Viosa. I found nothing re- 
 markable at this spot ; and, from the appearance 
 of the ruins, should conjecture that they may be 
 the remains of one of the many fortresses, erected 
 by Justinian to guard the passes of Epirus. 
 
 I passed a night in one of the villages of Lopesi, 
 a few miles to the north of Tepeleni. Travelling 
 now in a district, where there are no Greek houses, 
 and all the inhabitants are MahometuM.;, I was obliged 
 to have recourse to the authority of my passport 
 to procure myself a lodging. My new guard, 
 Martino, though himself a Christian, yet from being 
 on good terms with Yusuf Aga, whose name is 
 held in great terror in this part of the country, 
 managed this for me with facility. I was admitted 
 into the best house of the village, where I passed 
 the night ; without any other inconvenience, than
 
 316 MOUNT TOMARIT. 
 
 that of waiting a few minutes at the door till the 
 females of the family had been removed into their 
 private apartments. My host was a man of civility 
 and intelligence. He had known the Vizier from 
 his youth ; and, pointing at the couch on which I 
 was then sitting, he told me that he recollected the 
 young Ali sleeping upon it, more than forty years 
 before, when seeking refuge here from the enemies 
 who then oppressed him. 
 
 From the summit of a hill, behind this village, I 
 had an interesting geographical view of the coun- 
 try. In front, the Viosa was seen, making a bend 
 towards the west, and then resuming its general 
 direction of N.N.W. in which it may be traced for 
 many miles, at the foot of the hills which are con- 
 tinued northwards from Argenik. On the op- 
 posite side of the river, to the N.E., the country, 
 though hilly, is less elevated ; till passing over 
 numerous successive ridges, the eye rests upon the 
 great and magnificent mass of Mount Tomarit ; at 
 the distance from this spot of more than 30 miles. 
 This mountain, near the base of which is the town 
 of Berat, may be regarded as one of the highest in 
 Albania. Notwithstanding the name, it is scarcely 
 possible to conceive of it as the Mount Tomarus, 
 under which was the oracle of Dodona ; the reasons 
 for which opinion, will be found in a former part of 
 this work. * 
 
 * See p. 145. — On the banks of the Viosa, below this village 
 of Lopesi, are the remains of a fortress, which is evidently 
 Roman in its origin.
 
 ROUTE TO CARBONARA. 815 
 
 I continued my route along the left bank of the 
 Viosa, to the small town of Lunetzi, about 16 miles 
 from Tepeleni. The river is every-where a fine 
 object ; flowing here in a broad channel, and its 
 banks well wooded. At Lunetzi, the hills on each 
 side approach each other, forming a narrow Pass, 
 through which the river flows on in a deep and rapid 
 stream ; the cliffs in many places descending per- 
 pendicularly to the water ; and taking those sin- 
 gular forms, which limestone rocks often assume. 
 Near this place, there is a ferry, where it was my 
 design to pass the Viosa. The stream had been 
 swelled, however, by late rains ; and after spend- 
 ing half an hour in hesitation on its banks, the 
 ferrymen declared they would not venture across. 
 I could not regret this resolution, as there was 
 much danger in the extreme rapidity of the cur- 
 rent ; and a heavy storm of wind and rain, which 
 occurred at this time, would probably have further 
 embarrassed our movements. 
 
 Under these circumstances, I decided on taking 
 the road to Carbonara, a town five hours journey 
 further down the river, there to seek a passage across 
 to the ruins at Gradista; which it was my next ob- 
 ject to examine. A precipitous path for some miles 
 among the limestone cliffs which overhang the 
 Viosa, brought us again into a plain and fertile 
 country ; forming a sort of basin among the moun- 
 tains. On one of these cliffs, two miles from 
 Lunetzi, are the ruins of an ancient fortress, placed 
 on a pinnacle of rock, impending over the river ;
 
 SI 8 PLAIN OF KALUTZI. 
 
 and so situated, that the only access is by a rude 
 flight of stairs, cut in the rock. 
 
 The plain of Kalutzi, in which I had now ar- 
 rived, expands chiefly on the north side of the 
 Viosa. It is rich and beautiful, and has a large 
 population inhabiting different towns and villages 
 on the skirts of the hills. The loftiest mountain, 
 bordering on the plain, is one called Griva; which, 
 like most of the limestone chains and elevations of 
 this country, terminates in the summit as a ridge. 
 Numerous flocks of sheep feed on these hills ; the 
 produce of the plain is chiefly maize, wheat, and 
 tobacco. The culture of the land is very neat, and 
 I was struck by the fine appearance of the oxen 
 employed at the plough. The oxen of Chaonia, in 
 which region I was now travelling, had always 
 much celebrity ; and are noticed by Aristotle, 
 iElian, and other writers, in terms of encomium 
 for their strength and beauty. * 
 
 Beyond this plain, the valley is again contracted 
 by the approach of ridges of hill. These, however, 
 are much lower than the mountains, among which 
 I had been travelling for some days past ; and the 
 whole level of the country is seen gradually declin- 
 ing towards the sea, and the great plains which 
 border this part of the coast. The town of Car- 
 bonara is situated beyond this pass, on another 
 ridge of hill which runs down to the river, thickly 
 covered with olives and other trees ; among which 
 
 * Arist. Hist. Animal, lib. iii. 21. iElian. lib. xii. c. 11. Plin. 
 Hist. Nat. lib. viii. 45.
 
 CARBONARA. 319 
 
 the houses are scattered singly in the most pictu- 
 resque situations, each with a small enclosure around 
 it. Ascending the hill into the town, I was quickly 
 surrounded by a crowd of people a^embled to gaze 
 at a Frank stranger ; a very rare sight in this place. 
 The population of Carbonara is entirely Maho- 
 metan ; and I found the principal person here to 
 be a Dervish, who is said to have great influence in 
 the district ; and whose manners were extremely 
 authoritative towards the people. Having deli- 
 vered my buyrouldi to this man, a lodging was ap- 
 pointed for me; with the same necessity, however, 
 of waiting till the females of the family were re- 
 moved elsewhere. My hostesses, though invisible, 
 supplied me with a very good supper of dishes 
 cooked according to the Turkish manner. 
 
 The following morning I devoted to an examin- 
 ation of the ruins at Gradista, on the eastern side 
 of the Viosa. We crossed the river by a ferry, 
 called Lundra, two miles from Carbonara; to which 
 place I was accompanied by the Dervish, and by 
 my host of the preceding night. The passage 
 over was attended with some difficulty. The vio- 
 lence of the current carried our boat far below the 
 place where we embarked ; and brought us upon a 
 bank of sand within the stream, where we were 
 obliged to get out the horses, and to ride for some 
 distance through the water. A single passage of 
 the ferry-boat to and fro occupied nearly an hour. 
 I crossed first, accompanied by two of the guards, 
 and mv Greek servant, leaving the others to follow
 
 320 RUINS AT GRADISTA. 
 
 with the luggage, whilst I went to examine the 
 ruins at Gradista. This separation proved a very 
 unfortunate one to me ; as it was on this occasion 
 that I sustained the loss, alluded to in the preface, 
 of a small portmanteau, containing the greater part 
 of the papers, journals, and maps, which I had 
 drawn up during my present journey in Albania. 
 In what manner this happened, whether by accident 
 or otherwise, I have no exact means of knowing. I 
 was not myself aware of the loss, till, on rejoining in 
 the evening those of my guards whom I had left 
 behind, the package was discovered to be wanting. 
 The account they gave me, while asserting perfect 
 ignorance of the matter, was not by any means 
 satisfactory ; though affording at least a sort of 
 certainty, that the portmanteau never went beyond 
 the ferry of Lundra, but was either lost or stolen 
 at this spot. 
 
 The ruins at Gradista are situated on a lofty hill, 
 which approaches to the right bank of the Viosa j 
 insulated on each side by vallies, and merely con- 
 nected in one point with the high ground behind. 
 The position shews at first sight its strength and 
 capability of defence, according to the methods 
 of ancient warfare. I ascended by a steep path to 
 the summit of the hill, passing through the wretched 
 and almost deserted village of Gradista ; where 
 with difficulty we procured information as to our 
 route. This district of country belonged, until 
 lately, to Ibrahim Pasha of Berat ; under whose go- 
 vernment its inhabitants were remarkable for wild-
 
 RUINS AT GRADISTA. 321 
 
 ness and ferocity. At that time it was almost im- 
 possible to travel in this part of Albania with secu- 
 rity ; an evil which has already been remedied by 
 the more absolute, and, in some respects, more en- 
 lightened rule of Ali Pasha. His name here, as 
 elsewhere, has an influence which can exist only 
 under a perfect despotism. 
 
 The summit of the hill presents a tabular surface 
 of some extent, on which are the ruins of an an- 
 cient city, still visible in the greater part of the 
 circumference of the walls, and in the remains of 
 different edifices within their area. The situation 
 of the city must have been very fine, as well as 
 strong. The walls may be traced, following the 
 brow of the hill on its western and northern sides ; 
 with a transverse wall connecting the extremities 
 of this curve, and other portions extending the 
 defences along the edge of the declivity. There 
 is evidence that a part of these walls has been 
 built at two distinct periods, — a circumstance 
 most obvious in the transverse one, where the 
 old Cyclopian structure is seen below ; while above 
 this there is a comparatively recent portion, built 
 more rudely with small stones and cement. 
 
 Near the transverse wall, and within the area of 
 the city, I found several fragments of columns, of 
 small dimension, composed of a coarse marble, 
 some fluted, others not so. In the same situation, 
 I observed also an ancient wall, in great part broken 
 down, but still shewingthat excellence of workman- 
 ship which is so generally apparent in the ancient 
 
 VOL. II. Y
 
 322 Latin inscription. 
 
 Greek structure. Farther towards the centre of 
 the area, there are the vestiges, but more or less 
 concealed under ground, of some public edifice, in 
 all probability one of the temples of the city. The 
 fragments of ten or twelve columns appear at this 
 spot, with many other sculptured stones; and, 
 from the nature of the ground, I think it probable 
 that much more might still be restored by ex- 
 cavation. 
 
 Just without the area of the walls, on the wes- 
 tern side, some perpendicular ledges of rock over- 
 hang the declivity, which stretches down to the 
 valley of the Viosa. On one of these faces of rock, 
 I found the Latin inscription, of which I have given 
 a copy below, as accurate as I was enabled to make 
 it. * The letters, which are large, are included 
 within an oblong space of rock, the surface of 
 which has been rendered plane for their inscription. 
 It was impossible to make the copy complete j as 
 
 * M. VALERIVS. M x Q11R1 x x M x X x MVS ■ 
 x x CONS: COHORT1A. x x MEN. R x MSA — 
 
 EQVIT. TRIB. MILIT x x CVII. GEME x LI x A— 
 
 PRxEFx xTVS. IN MESOPOTAMIA VEXILLATIONIBVS EQVIxVM. 
 
 E MALAR x M 
 
 PR x x x ORIAE. AVGVSTA. x . SYRIACAE AGRIPPIANAE HERC VII 
 Sx x INSVLARIVM = ITEM COHORTIVM x xYCENS + VM x x PIAE 
 xxRxxxCRxxx ACVM 111 VIRIAE PA x x AGONVM if EQYTTVM 
 
 X X ' 
 
 CALOMTANORYxM x xY CHALCIDENORVM V PEIREORVM JlTl 
 ENSIVM IVLPIAE._PETRAEO x VM II VLPIAE. PALI AGONVM I. VLPIAE 
 SAG1TTARIORVM ill DACORVM I GAM RVM— 
 
 VIAM PVR -QVAE. A. COL. BVLLID— . 
 
 PERAST x CIAS ANGUSTIAM FRAGO x AM PIC x x OS 
 
 ITA MVN1T VT VEHICVL1S COMME x TVR ITEM 
 
 MARGVA FLVMINE ET RIVIS D 
 
 ET. IN SC SIT. D. D.
 
 ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY. S23 
 
 well from the erasure of some of the letters, as 
 from the height of the surface of rock above the 
 the ground, which made it necessary to stand on 
 the back of a horse while transcribing the upper 
 portion. The inscription will be seen to relate to 
 the circumstance of the Roman military com- 
 manders in this district having repaired, and ren- 
 dered carriageable, the public road from the town 
 of Bullis to some other point in the neighbourhood, 
 the name and situation of which is not perfectly 
 distinct, but which appears to have been near the 
 banks of the Viosa. It is unfortunate that the in- 
 scription affords no decisive testimony as to the 
 town, of which the ruins remain at this spot. 
 Bullis is mentioned by Ptolemy as a city of the 
 Elymiotes, and is referred to by Caesar, Cicero, and 
 Plutarch, in its connection with the civil wars of the 
 Romans on the frontiers of Illyricum and * Epirus. 
 From these allusions, however, it appears rather 
 doubtful whether this town could have been si- 
 tuated on the right bank of the Viosa, in the posi- 
 tion of the ruins at Gradista. On the contrary, 
 the site of Bullis has been generally supposed 
 by geographers on the other side the river, and 
 nearer to the coast and the port of Avlona. How- 
 far this opinion may be rendered doubtful by the 
 place and terms of the inscription just given, I will 
 not pretend to determine. If the ruins here do not 
 
 * See Caes. Comment. ; Ciceron. xi. Philipp. ; and Plutarch in 
 vita M. Bruti. — Stephanus calls Bullis, " woA*,- IWv^o; *■*?*- 
 So**™*." 
 
 v '2
 
 324 VIEW FROM GRADISTA. 
 
 indicate the position of Bullis, they may perhaps 
 be regarded as those of Amantia, another city 
 spoken of by Ptolemy as in the district of Orestis, 
 in this region. I made diligent enquiry among the 
 peasants of the adjacent villages, for any coins 
 found on the spot, but without success. Consider- 
 ing, however, the extent of the ruins, I should 
 think it probable, that a more detailed examin- 
 ation of them, would discover something to ascer- 
 tain their former name ; and this may be pointed 
 out as one of the objects which is worthy the atten- 
 tion of future travellers in Albania. 
 
 The view from the summit of the hill at Gra- 
 dista extends to the shores of the Adriatic, and 
 shews the course of the Viosa, no longer confined 
 among mountains, but winding through the ex- 
 tensive plains which border upon the coast. On 
 the opposite side of the valley, somewhat lower 
 down than the ruins, is seen the village of Selenitza, 
 celebrated for its pitch mines ; of which I shall 
 hereafter have occasion to speak. 
 
 Having remained some hours among the ruins, 
 I resumed my journey ; descending into the valley, 
 which forms the boundary of the hill to the north- 
 east. In the old walls on this side, there are the 
 vestiges of a gate, which seems to have been the 
 principal one of the city. The declivity of the 
 hill is covered with fragments of sculptured stone 
 removed from their original situation, particularly 
 near the path which conducts into the valley below\ 
 My route was continued for about fourteen miles,
 
 ROUTE TOWARDS APOLLONIA. 325 
 
 still on the right side of the Viosa, and over the 
 plains, upon which it enters a short distance below 
 Gradista. A deep alluvial soil forms the whole ex- 
 tent of these plains, which are extremely rich and 
 fertile, and support a very considerable population, 
 distributed in numerous small villages over their 
 surface. The cultivation is chiefly of maize and 
 wheat, of which a large surplus is exported from 
 the country. The same plains, intersected here 
 and there by low ridges or eminences, extend far 
 along the coast in the direction of Durazzo, and 
 form a very important acquisition to the power of 
 Ali Pasha, who obtained this territory as a part of 
 the Pashalik of Berat. 
 
 In the evening, I arrived at the village of Fra- 
 cola, where I met my luggage-horses, and the two 
 guards whom I had left with them, and made the 
 discovery of the loss of the package containing my 
 papers. Conceiving at the moment that there 
 might be some hope of regaining it, I instantly 
 sent back the sourudze with a peasant of the village, 
 to retrace the day's journey ; while I proceeded 
 myself to the Monastery of Pollina, on the site of 
 the ancient Apollonia, with directions that they 
 should join me there the next morning. The mo- 
 nastery is distant from Fracola only four or five 
 miles. I travelled thither by moonlight, and not- 
 withstanding my recent misfortune, could not but 
 enjoy the singularity of the scene; — the plains 
 spread before me as a sort of misty expanse ; — the 
 dull murmur of the sea heard from the distance ; — 
 
 y 3
 
 326 MONASTERY OF POLLINA. 
 
 the tall and masculine figures of my guards seen 
 partially, and at intervals, as the light fell upon 
 them. In our way we passed a large groupe of 
 gipsies, whose tents were pitched near the road 
 side ; their fires kindled in the midst, and thirty or 
 forty of these people sitting around the blazing 
 piles. 
 
 We reached the monastery at ten o'clock ; di- 
 rected to it less by the appearance of any track, 
 than by the barking of the Albanian dogs, which 
 were stationed around, to notice to its inhabitants 
 the. arrival of strangers, — a needful precaution in 
 a country where terror and insecurity have so long 
 prevailed. It was with much difficulty we obtained 
 admittance into the building, and not till my guards 
 had threatened the monks with the vengeance of 
 the Vizier, if they continued their refusal to open 
 the doors. An elderly monk at length came out 
 with a light, and conducted us into a wretched 
 apartment, where two or three of his brethren had 
 been sleeping around a fire. These poor men still 
 regarded our visit with apprehension, and it was not 
 easy to satisfy them that we had no design of 
 plundering their property. The misery of the 
 Christian monks, in every part of Albania, is very 
 great. They have been peculiarly the prey of the 
 lawless rulers, who have successively had power in 
 this country; and their defencelessness, equally 
 with their religion, has exposed them to every 
 species of outrage. 
 
 After waiting some time, my hosts brought me a
 
 APOLLONIA. 327 
 
 repast of bread, milk, and honey, and made up a 
 rude bed in one of the rooms of the monastery. 
 Honey, which at this time formed a principal arti- 
 cle in my diet, is abundant in every part of Albania. 
 The kind and quality vary much in different dis- 
 tricts ; but I found none that might compare in ex- 
 cellence with that of Hymettus. 
 
 The monastery of Pollina obtains its name from 
 the city of Apollonia, placed just within the frontier 
 of the ancient Illyricum, and once among the most 
 considerable and important places of this region. 
 Founded originally by the Corinthians, when they 
 were settling colonies on this coast, it appears to 
 have increased in consequence even till the age 
 of the Roman emperors. Cicero calls it " urbem 
 magnam et gravem," and the young Octavius, the 
 future Augustus of Rome, was sent hither to re- 
 ceive his education, and had resided six months in 
 the city before the death of Julius Caesar sum- 
 moned him to Italy.* A circumstance which 
 doubtless contributed to maintain the importance 
 of Apollonia, was its being a principal point of 
 communication between Italy and all the northern 
 parts of Greece, Macedonia, Thrace, &c. Situated 
 nearly opposite to the Italian port of Brundusium, 
 it formed the commencement of the great road 
 called the Via Ignatia; which proceeded eastwards 
 to Thessalonica, through the considerable towns of 
 Lychnis, Heraclea, Lyncestas, Eordos, Edessa, and 
 
 * Cic. Philip, xi. Plut. in vit. M. Bruti. Appian, lib. iii. 
 Y t-
 
 328 APOLLONIA. 
 
 Pella. This situation, as well as the size of the 
 city and the fertility of the surrounding plains ren- 
 dered it frequently an object of military importance, 
 as was particularly the case in the war between 
 Philip and the Romans, and in the civil war be- 
 tween Caesar and Pompey. * The causes of its 
 decline and destruction are not distinctly known, 
 but probably were the same as those which affected 
 Nicopolis, and the other cities of this region. 
 
 The position of Apollonia has occasionally been 
 mistaken by geographers, who have placed it to the 
 north of the Apsus, and near the mouth of that 
 river. The similarity between the Aous and the 
 Apsus in their name and general course, has pro- 
 bably led to this mistake, which is clearly corrected 
 by the testimony of ancient writers.! There can 
 be no doubt that Apollonia was situated near the 
 coast, a little to the north of the mouth of the 
 Aous ; a site which, independently of the name 
 and actual remains, will be found to correspond 
 perfectly with that of Pollina. The Apsus enters 
 the sea still further to the north, — a circumstance 
 distinctly shewn by the narrative of the two wars of 
 
 * Liv. lib. xxiv. xl. Caes. Bell. Civ. lib. iii. 
 
 ■J* Ptolemy, in describing Illyricum, mentions successively 
 Dyrrachium, the mouth of the Apsus, Apollonia, and the mouth 
 of the Aous. Strabo, (lib. 7.) Pliny (lib. iii. c. 23.) and Polybius, 
 (v. 110.) are all equally distinct as to the situation of Apollonia, 
 near the mouth of the Aous. In the civil war between Caesar and 
 Pompey, when the latterwas at Dyrrachium, Caesar took a position 
 on the Apsus to cover Apollonia, of which he was at this time the 
 master. Plutarch (in vita Flaminii) is perhaps not equally correct 
 as to the relative situation of the two rivers.
 
 RUINS OF THE CITY. 329 
 
 which I have just spoken. It appears that the ter- 
 ritory of Apollonia extended northwards to this 
 river; and, in former times, as at present, was re- 
 markable for the fertility of its soil, formed chiefly 
 by alluvial depositions.* 
 
 The limits of the ancient city cannot now be 
 accurately traced, as the vestiges of the walls are 
 very inconsiderable. It seems, however, to have 
 stood on, or amongst, a groupe of low hills which 
 rise upon the plains, with a western and southern 
 aspect towards the coast and the mouth of the 
 Viosa. A Doric column, forming the most con- 
 spicuous object among the ruins, may be distant 
 somewhat more than two miles from the sea, which, 
 immediately opposite this point, connects itself with 
 a salt-water lake upon the plains. This column, the 
 sole remains of an ancient temple, stands on one of 
 the eminences j ust mentioned. The modern monas- 
 tery is situated on another hill, half a mile to the 
 north of the former; which hill likewise, in all pro- 
 bability, made a part of the old city. A third 
 eminence, adjoining the other two, was also per- 
 haps occupied by the buildings of the place. The 
 actual remains of Apollonia are very inconsiderable. 
 Until within the last few years, a groupe of columns 
 stood upon the spot, where only one is now left; 
 but these, with various other architectural vestiges, 
 were destroyed, or carried away to furnish materials 
 for the buildings of the Pasha of Berat. It was 
 
 * Cxs. Bell. Civ. lib. iii. Du Cass. lib. xli.
 
 330 MONASTERY OF POLLINA. 
 
 told me that at Berat numerous fragments of columns, 
 bas-reliefs, &c. might be seen intermixed with the 
 heterogeneous forms of Turkish architecture. 
 
 In situation and appearance the monastery of 
 Pollina is very picturesque. Groupes of trees are 
 scattered over the hill on which it stands; a lofty 
 square tower, and a circular one with a conical 
 cupola, rise above the other buildings of the monas- 
 tery; several ancient cypresses, which surround 
 them, give a character of sanctity to the spot. Most 
 of the stones, of which the buildings are composed, 
 have evidently been taken from the ruins of Apol- 
 lonia. I found various fragments of statues and 
 columns enclosed in the walls of the monastery; 
 and some finely sculptured marbles under the por- 
 tico, which forms the entrance to the chapel. In 
 one place I discovered the remains of a fine basso- 
 relievo; the figure of a man thrusting with his foot 
 to the ground, a female, who is on her knees before 
 him, her arms raised in the air; while another male 
 figurebehind, is apparently dragging away the former 
 from his victim. The attitude of the female in this 
 groupe is very striking; and the sculpture seems 
 to have had much excellence, but is now greatly 
 defaced by time. From its size and form, the stone 
 probably belonged to the frieze of one of the temples 
 of Apollonia. 
 
 In various parts of the buildings of the monastery, 
 particularly about the great gate, I found pieces of 
 sculpture apparently of much later date, and of very 
 rude workmanship ; the figures of animals, branches,
 
 DORIC COLUMN. SSI 
 
 and leaves. I copied also several Greek inscrip- 
 tions, which occur in the walls ; but with one excep- 
 tion, they were all sepulchral, and afforded nothing 
 worthy of particular notice. 
 
 From the monastery, I went to examine the Doric 
 column, already mentioned. That it belonged to 
 an ancient temple, is at once evident from the nature 
 of the ground, without reference to the other seven 
 columns, which have been carried from this place 
 to Berat. The whole shaft, and part of the capital 
 still remain, and the fluting is tolerably perfect. 
 The diameter of the column, about two feet from 
 the base, is somewhat more than four feet four 
 inches. Its height I had no longer the means of 
 accurately measuring; but I should estimate it at 
 about 24 feet ; an intermediate proportion to the eye 
 between the Parthenon of Athens, and the Doric 
 temple at Corinth. It appears to have been one of 
 the angular columns of the building. An area in- 
 distinctly marked by channels in the ground, gives 
 a length of about 44 yards ; with an extent of nearly 
 16 in the other dimension. The surface, however, 
 is so much covered with soil and brush-wood, that 
 no other remains are visible on the spot, except a few 
 imperfect fragments of stone. 
 
 The situation in which this temple stood is remark- 
 ably fine, commanding a view of great extent and 
 variety. To the south-west and west, are seen the 
 mouth of the Viosa; the fertile plains stretching 
 along the shores of the Adriatic ; the sea itself be- 
 yond; and a small island, probably that of Sason,
 
 332 VIEW FROM APOLLONIA. 
 
 mentioned by Polybius.* Following the landscape 
 to the south and south-east, the celebrated ridge of 
 the Acroceraunian mountains terminates the view. 
 These mountains, which I had but indistinctly seen 
 the night before in approaching the monastery, 
 begin beyond the port of Avlona, and to the south 
 of the Viosa, and extend far along the coast ; pre- 
 senting an outline of great height, and remarkable 
 abruptness. Succeeding to them in the circuit of 
 the landscape, are the mountains, forming the valley 
 of the Viosa above Carbonaraj and following the 
 view towards the north, the great mountain of 
 Tomarit, and the plains or low ranges of hill, which 
 extend along the coast towards Durazzo, being the 
 southern part of the ancient Illyria. In this direc- 
 tion probably were the silver mines of Damastium, 
 mentioned by Strabo. The traveller, seeing from 
 the site of Apollonia, the flocks of sheep which feed 
 on the adjoining plains, will be reminded of the 
 anecdote of Herodotus regarding the sacred sheep 
 of the sun, which anciently were held in such vene- 
 ration by the people of this city.t 
 
 * Polyb. v. 110. 
 
 f These sacred sheep of Apollonia derived their sanctity 
 from certain oracular declarations of Delphi and Dodona. The 
 principal people of the city had the charge of them year by year, 
 in turns. While one Euenius was intrusted with the guard, the 
 wolves got into the cavern where they were kept, and killed 60 
 of the number. For his supposed negligence, Euenius was de- 
 prived of his eyes; after which, the remaining sheep instantly 
 became barren, and the ground no longer yielded its proper 
 verdure. The oracles being consulted, it was answered, that
 
 RETURN TO FRACOLA. 333 
 
 When leaving Ioannina, I had the intention of 
 visiting the city of Berat, which is not more than 
 a day's journey from Pollina ; but the loss of clothes, 
 together with my papers, prevented the execution 
 of this design. There is nothing very remarkable, 
 as I understand, about the place, which has now lost 
 its importance as the residence of a Pasha. It is 
 said to contain about 15,000 inhabitants. 
 
 Having remained at the monastery till noon, 
 without seeing any thing of the people whom I had 
 sent in search of my portmanteau, I decided on 
 returning to Fracola, to await their arrival there. 
 Before leaving Pollina I received a request from the 
 monks, that I would speak to Ali Pasha on their be- 
 half, praying him for a protection against the visits of 
 the Albanian soldiery, and the other depredators, 
 who infested their residence. They were so earnest 
 in their entreaties, that I gave them the promise of 
 using for their advantage, any influence I might 
 have. 
 
 At Fracola I met the sourudze returning, with- 
 out any tidings of my portmanteau. My anxiety 
 on this subject induced me to return still further 
 upon my former route, and I proceeded to a village 
 a few miles further up the valley of the Viosa, 
 
 he had been unjustly treated, and that compensation must be 
 made him, before these calamities could be removed. In con- 
 sequence of this, the blind Euenius received two of the finest 
 farms about Apollonia, as a satisfaction for the loss of his eyes. 
 See Herodot. lib. ix. 93.
 
 334) ACROCERAUNIAN MOUNTAINS. 
 
 whence I dispatched Martino and my Greek servant, 
 to renew the search, directing them to proceed as 
 far as the ferry of Lundra. Meanwhile I took up 
 my quarters in an Albanian cottage, or hut, built 
 simply of mud, reeds, and the stalks of Indian 
 corn. All the villages in this district consist of 
 houses of similar construction, and are peculiarly 
 rude in their aspect. The appearance of the inha- 
 bitants, as far as I could judge, corresponds with 
 this character. They are of the Albanian tribe of 
 Toskides ; and if the opinion be well founded that 
 the Albanians are descended from the ancient Illy- 
 rians, they may be considered as actually inhabiting 
 the country which belonged to their remote ances- 
 tors. The region of Illyricum, though not perhaps 
 very exactly defined, appears to have comprehended 
 a part of the country to the north of the Aous, near 
 the mouth of this river. 
 
 The weather, though now the 20th of March, 
 was still frosty and cold ; and even thus near to the 
 coast, all the higher mountains in the landscape 
 were covered with snow. The view from the vil- 
 lage where I slept, of the Acroceraunian mountains, 
 now called the Chimarra, shewed in a singular man- 
 ner the serrated outline of this lofty ridge. 
 
 The following morning I proceeded further up 
 the valley, to meet the party whom I had sent off 
 the evening before. They returned with the same 
 want of success as in their former search. Assured 
 now that I had little chance of repairing my loss, 
 and beginning to suspect that some one of my
 
 ROUTE TO AVLONA. 335 
 
 guards was concerned in it, I was compelled to de- 
 termine upon returning to Ioannina as speedily as 
 possible j resigning reluctantly, from the want of 
 clothes and other necessaries, several objects which 
 would have been interesting to me in this part of 
 Albania. The only deviation on which I could 
 venture from the direct route, was in going to the 
 city of Avlona, at the northern extremity of the 
 Chimarra mountains ; as well to visit the place, as 
 to obtain fresh horses for my journey. 
 
 Crossing by a difficult ferry to the south side of 
 the Viosa, I pursued my route to Avlona ; over the 
 plains which border on the river, and on a smaller 
 stream descending from the neighbourhood of Del- 
 vino, and holding its course in a northerly direction 
 between the mountains of the Chimarra, and the 
 ridges which stretch along the western side of the 
 Viosa. * Between this river and Avlona, I crossed 
 a low chain of hills, which I found to be chiefly 
 composed of grey lamellar gypsum, resembling that 
 of the great gypsum formation I had observed on 
 the banks of the Kalama. This formation appears 
 also to be very considerable ; the hills stretching for 
 some miles in a direction parallel to the shores of 
 the gulf of Avlona. These hills render the ap- 
 proach to the town very beautiful. They are in- 
 tersected by deep vallies, the sides of which are 
 covered with wood : at their foot, and in part en- 
 
 * Can this river be the Celydnus of antiquity ? Its modern 
 name, I understood, but on doubtful authority, to be the 
 Suchitza.
 
 336 AVL0NA. 
 
 circled by them, is seen the town ; beyond it a stripe 
 of fertile plain stretching down to the shore. The 
 gulf of Avlona is so environed by hills, that it has 
 the appearance of a great lake, the southern bound- 
 ary of which is formed by the steep and rugged 
 ascent of the Acroceraunian mountains. 
 
 Descending from the hills, we entered the town j 
 and proceeding along a handsome street, which be- 
 longs rather to the Italian than Turkish style of 
 building, came to a large edifice, formerly the resi- 
 dence of the Pasha, now inhabited by the Albanian 
 Commandant, who governs in the name of Ali 
 Pasha. I found this man sitting in an open gallery 
 which traverses the street just mentioned, sur- 
 rounded by Albanian soldiers ; himself a man 
 between fifty and sixty, of strong masculine appear- 
 ance. It was told me that he had been in the 
 service of Ibrahim, during the wars between this 
 Pasha and Ali ; but that in consideration of his 
 influence in this part of the country, and probably 
 other more concealed circumstances, he had gained 
 the favour of the Vizier, and been appointed to his 
 present situation. My passport procured me great 
 attention from him ; and being informed of the loss 
 of my portmanteau, he immediately gave orders that 
 twelve Albanian soldiers should be sent to the dif- 
 ferent villages on my former route, with directions 
 not to return till they had recovered it. Whether 
 this was actually done, I had not the means of 
 knowing; but it is most probable that the order 
 was merely a nominal one.
 
 AVLOVA. 337 
 
 The town of Avlona, or Salona, existed in ancient 
 times under the same name, and had some import- 
 ance as a maritime place, from the secure station 
 for shipping which its gulf afforded. In the war 
 between Caesar and Pompey on this coast, it con- 
 tinued in the interest of the former, and repelled 
 the attack of M. Octavius, one of Pompey's gene- 
 rals, who was sent against it. * Its long connection 
 with Italy has given much of Italian exterior to the 
 modern town, though the population is now almost 
 entirely Mahometan, and the number of Greek fa- 
 milies in the place does not exceed thirty. Until 
 the submission of Ibrahim Pasha to the superior 
 force of Ali, it was connected with the Pashalik of 
 Berat. Its subjection to the latter gives him a port 
 of considerable importance, as an outlet for the pro- 
 duce of this country. The exports are chiefly of 
 wheat, maize, wool, oil, and mineral pitch, the 
 latter article being derived from the mines of 
 Selenitza, about eight miles from Avlona ; the oil 
 and grain from the hills surrounding the gulf, and 
 from the great plains and vallies in this part of 
 Albania. The town contains nearly a thousand 
 houses. There are six mosques in it, and one 
 Greek church. Besides the export trade of the 
 place, it has long been one of the principal channels 
 for the introduction of Italian and German goods 
 into the interior of Albania. 
 
 Tiie district of the Chimarra, or Acroceraunian 
 
 * Caes. Comm. Bel. Civ. lib. iii. 
 VOL. II. Z
 
 338 DISTRICT OF THE CHIMARRA 
 
 mountains, stretching along the coast to the south 
 of the gulf of Avlona, resemble^ that of Suli in 
 having maintained a sort of rude independence, 
 amidst the many petty revolutions which have oc- 
 curred in this part of Turkey. The Chimarriotes 
 belong to the Albanian tribe of the Liapides, inha- 
 biting the country between Avlona and Delvino. 
 Like the Suliotes, they have always had the charac- 
 ter of wildness and ferocity in their habits ; and it 
 was their custom to make excursions into the neigh- 
 bouring districts for the sake of plunder, until the 
 more powerful government of Ali Pasha reduced 
 them to a state of comparative tranquillity. Their 
 principal occupation is that of shepherds, the moun- 
 tains supporting numerous and large flocks of 
 sheep. Some *of the vallies and skirts of the hills 
 are tolerably well cultivated, and have a large 
 population ; the higher parts of the mountains are 
 covered in great measure with oaks or pines. On 
 the coast underneath the ridges of Chimarra is 
 Porto Panormo, or Palermo, the Panormus of an- 
 tiquity. The place where Caesar disembarked his 
 army in coming from Brundusium, is probably in 
 the vicinity of Palassa, on the same coast, immedi- 
 ately to the south of the gulf of Avlona. There are 
 many vestiges of ancient towns in this vicinity, 
 amongst others some which seem to indicate the 
 site of Oricum, at a place which still has the name 
 of Ric. 
 
 Pliny speaks of the Aornus of Epirus, as situated 
 among the Acroceraunian mountains ; but I am
 
 OR ACROCERAUNIAN MOUNTAINS. 339 
 
 not aware of any circumstance to indicate the place 
 to which lie alludes. The origin of the name of 
 these hills, from the lightning which frequently fell 
 upon them, is particularly mentioned by Eustha- 
 thius. The dread felt by the Roman navigators of 
 the " infames scopulos" of the Acroceraunian 
 mountains is well known ; and it may easily be un- 
 derstood how this coast, the first seen by those 
 coming from Italy, should have been rendered for- 
 midable by its abrupt exposure to the west, and to 
 the gusts of wind descending down the narrow 
 channel of the Adriatic. 
 
 On the 21st of March, having procured fresh 
 horses by the care of the Commandant, I quitted 
 Avlona, with the intention of returning to Ioan- 
 nina as speedily as possible, being now in want 
 of almost every thing that could be required for 
 travelling with advantage or comfort. I was gra- 
 tified by the opportunity of taking in my way the 
 pitch mines, already mentioned, at Selenitza on the 
 left bank of the Viosa. In proceeding thither, I 
 crossed by a new route the chain of gypsum hills, 
 the valley of the river coming from Delvino, and a 
 second low ridge of hills, dividing this valley from 
 that of the Viosa. These hills are of recent form- 
 ation, composed of a limestone conglomerate, very 
 easy of decomposition ; of shale, and of a soft and 
 friable sandstone. The pitch formation of Sele- 
 nitza is in the same range of high ground ; some- 
 what further up the valley of the Viosa, on the 
 way to Carbonara. The hills at this place are 
 
 z 2
 
 340 PITCH MINES OF SELENITZA. 
 
 broken by numerous deep ravines, dividing them 
 into irregular and intersecting ridges, on the de- 
 clivity of one of which is the wretched village of 
 Selenitza, inhabited entirely by the workmen of 
 the mines. We met an assemblage of these people 
 near the village j and a Greek priest, whom I 
 found amongst them, undertook to be my guide to 
 all that was to be seen on the spot. 
 
 The mineral pitch formation at this place, is one 
 of the most considerable that have yet been de- 
 scribed, though doubtless much inferior to that 
 which occurs near the shores of the Caspian Sea. 
 I had not the time, or other means, to ascertain its 
 extent with accuracy ; but from the observation of 
 different points in the circuit pointed out to me, I 
 should conceive that the bed or beds of this mi- 
 neral, must be diffused over a surface, at least four 
 miles in circumference, though probably very irre- 
 gular in the definition of its boundary. The pitch 
 comes out in various places on the declivity of the 
 ravines, which intersect the district ; and it is oc- 
 casionally worked in such situations, but more fre- 
 quently by shafts sunk down from the surface. I 
 could not satisfactorily learn, whether it was to be 
 regarded as originally one continuous bed, or as 
 an assemblage of smaller deposits of the mineral ; 
 but I should conceive the former opinion as the 
 most probable one. The pitch is covered only by 
 a loose deposit of calcareous earth and clay, by 
 beds of shale, &c. the thickness of which is various 
 in different places.
 
 PITCH MINES OF SELENITZA. 341 
 
 Placed in the noose of a rope, and let down by 
 a windlass, I descended into one of the shafts, 
 about half a mile from the village. The depth of 
 this shaft, from the surface, did not exceed 40 feet, 
 nearly 30 feet of which were cut through the bed 
 of pitch. At this point, while still having a floor 
 of the solid mineral, the workmen had begun to 
 tunnel in an horizontal direction ; but the mine 
 was of recent origin, and the workings had yet ad- 
 vanced only a few feet from the shaft. I could 
 not place perfect reliance on the statements of the 
 priest, or the miners who attended me ; but it was 
 their information, that the bed of pitch had, in 
 many places, three times the thickness of the actual 
 workings in the mine where I descended ; which 
 would make it amount to 70 or 80 feet. It was 
 further stated to me, that in some of the former 
 mines, now filled with water, the horizontal work- 
 ings had been carried to a distance of nearly 100 
 paces in different directions from the shaft. In 
 fact, it seems that they are generally continued, 
 with one or more shafts, till the water comes in, and 
 compels the miners to change their place of work- 
 ing. This is the principal obstacle they have to 
 encounter ; one, which the state of the mecha- 
 nical arts in this country has yet done nothing to 
 remove. 
 
 The compact mineral pitch or asphaltum, of Se- 
 lenitza, has the usual characters of this substance, 
 in its state of greatest purity. The colour ap- 
 proaches to perfect black, with a resinous lustre ; 
 
 z 3
 
 342 PITCH MINES OF SELENITZA. 
 
 the fracture is conchoidal ; it is slightly brittle; 
 the specific gravity 1.4 or 1.5. It becomes viscid, 
 or nearly fluid, when heated ; and burns with a 
 flame of considerable brightness. I did not re- 
 mark much difference of external quality at the 
 various depths of the shaft, by which I descended. 
 It has been unnecessary to make an analysis of the 
 mineral, as it is found here, this having already 
 been done by Klaproth ; the results Of whose ac- 
 curate examination are given below. * 
 
 The property of the pitch-mines, as of all other 
 mines in Turkey, is nominally vested in the Grand 
 Signor ; and it was told me that Ali Pasha paid to 
 the Porte, 10,000 piastres per annum, as a rent, or 
 composition for their actual possession. This sum 
 is doubtless small in relation to the present value 
 of the mines ; still smaller in its proportion to their 
 capability of being extended and rendered more 
 profitable. The extent of the pitch formation, 
 which may possibly much exceed what I have ven- 
 tured to surmise ; the great thickness of the de- 
 posit ; and the convenience, in various respects, of 
 the situation, give a possible commercial value to 
 the mines of Selenitza, doubtless much exceeding 
 that which now belongs to them. The exact. 
 
 * This analysis of the Albanian, or Avlona mineral pitch, is 
 given in Klaproth's Analytical Essays, vol. ii. p. 253. He 
 found 100 grains of the mineral to yield 36 cubic inches of car- 
 buretted hydrogen, 32 grains of bituminous oil, 6 grains of 
 water, slightly impregnated with ammonia, 30 grains of char- 
 coal, 7-i grains of silex, 4£ grains of alumine, 1| grains of oxide 
 of iron, with very minute traces of lime, and manganese.
 
 PITCH MINES OF SELENITZA. 343 
 
 amount of the present export I could not learn ; 
 but it was stated to me generally, that six or seven 
 large cargoes were annually sent from Avlona ; 
 chiefly to Malta, and different ports on the Italian 
 coast. The carriage to Avlona is performed by 
 horses, at the expence of one para per oke, or 
 about a shilling per cwt. Were the mines placed 
 under a more enlightened scheme of management, 
 the nature of the intervening country would doubt- 
 less allow of more economical means of transport. 
 
 The machinery employed about the shafts of 
 these mines is of the simplest kind, consisting 
 merely of ropes, windlasses, and wicker-baskets. 
 The miners are paid according to the number of 
 okes of the mineral, which they may severally ob- 
 tain. When at the bottom of the shaft, and wish- 
 ing to re-ascend, I was refused by these people, 
 until I had paid them a small sum of money ; 
 a practical joke not confined to the miners of 
 Selenitza. 
 
 It seems certain that the ancients were ac- 
 quainted with this deposit of pitch, though it does 
 not appear equally clear that the mineral was for- 
 merly worked with economical views. Strabo 
 speaks of a place called Nymphaaum, in the country 
 of the Apolloniates, where there was a rock yield- 
 ing fire, from below which issued fountains of as- 
 phaltum. * Though we find in Caesar the mention 
 of a port of Nymphaeum, on the coast to the north 
 
 * Lib. vii. 487 
 Z 4
 
 344 ORACLE OF.NYMPHJEUM. 
 
 of the Apsus *, there can be little doubt that the 
 Nymphasum of Strabo was the pitch formation on 
 the banks of the Viosa ; an opinion confirmed by 
 the testimony of other writers, as to the phenomena 
 which occur on the spot. Plutarch, in his life of 
 Sylla, mentions a remarkable place called Nym- 
 phaeum, near Apollonia, where the ground had an 
 extraordinary verdure, though giving rise to springs, 
 from which fire continually issued. Dio Cassius is 
 more minute in his account of this place ; where, 
 according to his narrative, much fire was given out, 
 without its either extending to the neighbouring 
 lands, or parching up those on which it actually 
 appeared, t He further mentions that the effusion 
 of flame was increased by rain ; that the spot was 
 called Nymphaeum ; and that there was an oracle 
 here, which gave responses on all subjects but those 
 of death or marriage, on which it was not permitted 
 to consult it. Frankincense was thrown upon the 
 flame ; if consumed, the vow was accepted ; if not 
 consumed, the oracle was considered unpropitious. 
 It became an interesting object to seek the pre- 
 sent traces of natural phenomena and superstitions, 
 belonging to so remote an age ; and I was fortunate 
 in being able distinctly to discover them on the 
 spot. In two or three different places, in the vi- 
 cinity of the pitch-mines, I found an inflammable 
 
 * Bell. Civ. lib. iii. 
 
 f Dion. Hist. xli. 195. By this historian, Nymphaeum is de- 
 scribed as on the banks of the Anas, or Aias, which is the name 
 given by Scylax to the Aous, the modern Viosa.
 
 INFLAMMABLE SPRING. 345 
 
 gas issuing from the ground, which easily took fire 
 and spread a flame to some extent over the surface. 
 The most remarkable of these places was about half 
 a mile from the shaft, where I had descended ; on 
 the declivity towards a narrow valley or ravine. A 
 small space of ground, fifteen or twenty yards in 
 circumference, shewed a surface denuded of ve- 
 getation, and covered with stones or earth, appa- 
 rently decomposed by sulphureous vapours. This 
 surface I found to be very sensibly heated ; though, 
 having lost my thermometer, I was unable to as- 
 certain its real temperature. On one part of it, a 
 streamlet of water issued from the ground, forming 
 in its egress a little basin, through which rose a vast 
 number of air-bubbles. With this gas, which I im- 
 mediately conjectured, from its situation and other 
 circumstances, to be carburetted hydrogen, I 
 filled a large glass ; and applying a light, which 
 Cbnstantine procured by the friction of two pieces 
 of wood, it was instantly inflamed, and burnt with 
 considerable vividness. After this experiment, 
 which greatly astonished my Albanian guards, I 
 set fire to the bubbles coming through the water. 
 The flame not only continued by the constant exit 
 of the gas ; but spread in different directions, from 
 the quantity of air issuing out of crevices in the 
 ground ; and when I left the place, it had already 
 extended over a very considerable surface. This 
 circumstance, as 1 was assured by the miners, often 
 occurs from natural causes, especially after heavy
 
 346 ORACLE OF NYMPHAEUM. 
 
 rains ; the gas, once inflamed, frequently continu- 
 ing to burn for several weeks in succession. * 
 
 This remarkable coincidence with the ancient 
 history of the spot was rendered more striking, by 
 the observation of several sculptured marbles lying 
 upon the ground, within thirty yards of the place 
 whence the gas issues. One of these marbles ap- 
 peared as if it had been a cistern ; but its position in 
 the ground was such as to render it difficult to ascer- 
 tain the fact. Though unable to find any inscription 
 which might afford decisive testimony ; yet the si- 
 tuation of these marbles renders it more than pro- 
 bable tha£they had relation to the ancient oracle of 
 Nymphaeum, which existed in this place ; and 
 from the nature of the ground, I think it probable 
 that excavation might disclose other evidences to 
 the same effect. These distinct illustrations of 
 mythology, afforded by the permanence of natural 
 phenomena, were extremely interesting to me. 
 They may indeed be reckoned among the peculiar 
 gratifications of the traveller in Greece, t 
 
 * Phenomena, similar to those of the inflammable spring at 
 Nymphaeum, occur at Pietra Mala among the Apennines, in the 
 route between Bologna and Florence. 
 
 -f- It appears that Nymphaeum was the name of several other 
 places of antiquity, where there were bituminous springs, con- 
 nected with religious observances. Strabo mentions a Nym- 
 phaeum in Athamania, where a temple of the Nymphs stood in the 
 vicinity of certain springs of this kind. Bryant, in accordance 
 with his theory of Greek mythology, has derived the words Nym- 
 phaeum, Nymph, Naptha, &c. from Ain-Omphi, signifying the 
 fountains of the oracle, or of the deity of fire.
 
 RETURN TO CARBONARA. 347 
 
 The production of carburetted hydrogen in the 
 vicinity of a deposit of mineral pitch, and the 
 greater abundance of this gas after rains, are facts 
 which admit of an easy explanation. It would 
 seem from the local appearances, that a minute 
 portion of sulphur is extricated at the same time, 
 possibly in the form of sulphuretted hydrogen. The 
 phenomena, which I formerly noticed as having oc- 
 curred near the lake of Zerovina, and in the district 
 of Charamoutates, are probably analogous to those 
 of Selenitza ; and it is not impossible that there 
 may be local deposits of pitch, of greater or less 
 extent, in these situations. I do not here enter 
 into the speculation as to the origin of this mineral, 
 whether vegetable or otherwise ; as I did not at 
 Selenitza remark any circumstance that could throw 
 new light upon this subject. 
 
 From the mines of Selenitza I directed my route 
 a second time to Carbonara, which is only a few 
 miles further up the Viosa. Here I left one of my 
 guards to renew in this vicinity the search after the 
 package I had lost ; while with the remainder I 
 took the direct road along the river to Tepeleni, 
 where I arrived the evening of the following day. 
 1 do not weary the reader with any details of a route 
 which has already been described. At Tepeleni, 
 though with some inconvenience, I deviated from 
 it, to make a short excursion up the valley of the 
 Bentza, and to the summit of a part of the moun- 
 tain-chain of Argenik ; induced to do this by the 
 report of there being metallic ores at a certain
 
 348 MONASTERY OF SPILIO. 
 
 place in the vicinity, and by my wish to satisfy the 
 earnest enquiries of Ali Pasha on this subject. The 
 excursion in this respect proved to be wholly fruit- 
 less. The spot to which I was conducted, after a 
 long and laborious ascent of the mountains, shewed 
 no appearance of such ores ; nor was it probable 
 from the character of the limestone rock of Ar- 
 genik, or the particular situation of the place, that 
 they should occur here. My excursion, however, 
 was in part rewarded by the wild magnificence of 
 the mountain scenery through which the Bentza 
 flows to join the Viosa. 
 
 From Tepeleni I continued my journey without 
 further interruption to Ioannina, where I arrived 
 on the evening of the third day. The only deviation 
 I made from my former route was in leaving Ar- 
 gyro-Kastro to the west, and skirting along the de- 
 clivity of the mountains which form the eastern 
 boundary of this great valley. In pursuing the 
 road, I passed the Khan of Valiera, where the 
 Gardikiotes had been massacred twelve months 
 before, and saw there the melancholy spectacle 
 which was described in the preceding chapter. 
 From the Khan I ascended very far up the moun- 
 tains, which here are probably more than 3000 feet 
 in height, to the monastery of Spilio, where I passed 
 the night. This place has its name from some ex- 
 tensive caverns, partly natural, partly artificial, 
 which occur in a limestone cliff that overhangs 
 the monastery. One of these caves, about forty 
 feet above the base of the cliff, has been fitted up
 
 PICTURESQUE VILLAGES. 349 
 
 as a chapel, approachable only by a ladder attached 
 to the rock. The situation of the monastery 
 itself is very remarkable, at a vast height above 
 the valley of Argyro-Kastro, and almost directly 
 underneath the great precipices which form the 
 summit of the ridge. Though now the 24th of 
 March, the snow was still lying in large quantity 
 at the foot of these precipices, at the distance of 
 but a few hundred feet above the monastery. 
 There are said to be many wolves on the mountains 
 bounding the valley of Argyro-Kastro, which inflict 
 much mischief on the flocks in this district. 
 
 Two miles to the south of Spilio, and immediately 
 opposite Argyro-Kastro, are the vestiges of an 
 ancient city ; consisting merely of Cyclopian walls, 
 which follow the circuit of an irregular tabular hill, 
 one of the secondary eminences on the declivity of 
 the great mountain-chain above. A peasant whom 
 I found among the ruins, shewed me a few coins 
 which he said had been picked up on the spot, — 
 but they were of the Roman emperors, and indi- 
 cated nothing as to the ancient name or condition 
 of the place. 
 
 On the declivity of these mountains are numerous 
 large villages, remarkably picturesque in their si- 
 tuation among woods and orchards, and exhibiting 
 more neatness and comfort than are usually found 
 in the villages of Albania. In those called Ce- 
 sarades and Taxarades, the habitations are large and 
 well built ; and the dress of the inhabitants, espe- 
 cially of the females, has a picturesque and agreeable
 
 350 ARRIVAL AT IOANNINA. 
 
 appearance, from the red cotton stuffs, of which it 
 is in great part composed. I was told that one or 
 two of these villages had been formed by emigrants 
 from Constantinople ; who, in this place, pursue 
 with industry their original occupation, as the ar- 
 tizans of embroidery and ornamented stuffs ; still 
 retaining their connections in business with the ca- 
 pital of Turkey, 
 
 I arrived at Ioannina on the evening of the 25th 
 of March, and resumed my former abode there ; 
 until the arrival of Mr. G. Foresti, the British re- 
 sident, who at this time was daily expected from 
 the Ionian Isles.
 
 351 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 THIRD RESIDENCE AT IOANNINA. — INTERVIEWS WITH ALI 
 PASHA. DEPARTURE FOR PREVESA AND ZANTE. — CON- 
 CLUSION. 
 
 In returning to Ioannina from my northern journey, 
 1 had proposed to remain there very few days ; but 
 the solicitation of the Vizier, and the anxiety to re- 
 cover my papers, if it were yet possible, detained 
 me more than a fortnight. During this time I made 
 almost daily visits to Ali Pasha ; and occasionally 
 twice a day, at a time, when he was slightly in- 
 disposed. In the first interview with him, after my 
 return, he shewed the same interest as before in the 
 detail of my journey, and asked numerous questions 
 on the subject. The one upon which he dwelt 
 most repeatedly was, whether I had discovered any 
 precious metals in my route, either in the ground, 
 or among the ruins I had visited. I explained to 
 him the improbability, from the nature of the rocks 
 in Albania, that gold or silver should be found here, 
 and the equal improbability that there should be 
 concealed treasures among any of these ruins. It 
 did not seem that he was perfectly convinced on 
 this point, since both now and afterwards he re- 
 peated the question, shewing me at the same time 
 a jar containing two or three hundred coins of the
 
 ,352 INTERVIEW WITH ALI PASHA. 
 
 Roman emperors, which had been found in his re- 
 cent excavations at Nicopolis. He asked in parti- 
 cular with great earnestness about the inscription 
 on the rock at Gradista, which he thought might 
 afford a clue to some hidden treasures. I endea- 
 voured to turn a conversation, on which I could 
 not satisfy him, by speaking of the pitch mines, 
 and proposing certain improvements which might 
 extend their value, and render more economical 
 the mode of working them. From some motive or 
 other he did not appear to take interest in this 
 subject, but shifted it back again, as soon as pos- 
 sible, to the more favourite one just referred to. 
 
 He asked my opinion of the Albanians whom I 
 had seen in different districts, and particularly re- 
 specting those in the country about Tepeleni ; giving 
 me at the same time several remarkable anecdotes 
 illustrative of their attachment to his person. He 
 afterwards alluded to my visit to the deserted city 
 of Gardiki, and to the Khan of Valiera, as if to 
 enquire what were my feelings on the subject of this 
 massacre; accompanying his question with a sin- 
 gular expression of countenance, and a sort of 
 hoarse, suppressed laugh, not unusual to him, but 
 which was more than usually remarkable in this 
 instance. An article he had seen in the French 
 papers, narrating this event in terms of severe repro- 
 bation, had made him already, in some degree, 
 aware of the sentiments with which Europeans 
 would regard it. Perceiving, probably, this senti- 
 ment in the tone with which I answered him, he
 
 INTERVIEW WITH ALI PASHA. 353 
 
 asked whether I had read the inscription placed 
 upon the wall of the Khan. I contented myself 
 by simply replying, that, from its position, I had 
 been unable to peruse the tablet, but that I under- 
 stood the nature of its contents. He again looked 
 at me with the same singular expression of coun- 
 tenance, in which remorse certainly bore no part. 
 The conversation abruptly ended, and he never 
 again recurred to this subject. 
 
 At a subsequent interview, he expressed his desire 
 to know what I thought of his son Sali Bey. After 
 giving a favourable opinion of the boy's talents, 
 which was obviously gratifying to him, I mentioned 
 the advantage he might derive from travelling for a 
 short time in Europe. The Vizier immediately 
 replied that his ideas were the same, and that he 
 had already determined upon his son's leaving 
 Albania, when sixteen years of age, to travel for 
 four or five years. He added, that he designed to 
 send him first to Morocco to spend a year there ; 
 afterwards to England ; thence to France, Germany, 
 and Russia ; and finally to Constantinople, and some 
 of the Turkish cities in Asia. This detail of his 
 plan was given with more correctness of geography 
 than is usual with the limited knowledge of the 
 Turks on this subject. He added, that he hoped 
 I should shew my friendship for himself, in giving 
 assistance to his son, when he visited England. 
 
 I spoke to him of the request 1 had received from 
 the monks of Pollina, that I would procure, if 
 possible, some protection to their monastery. He 
 
 vol. n. A A
 
 354 INTERVIEW WITH ALI PASHA. 
 
 acceded at once to my wishes on the subject, and 
 immediately ordered a mandate to be drawn out, 
 which, placed in the hands of the monks, might 
 exempt them from the visits of the Albanian sol- 
 diery, or other ill-usage. To this mandate he put 
 his signature in my presence, and gave it in charge 
 to my former guard, Martino, who was returning to 
 this part of Albania. 
 
 I made the Vizier acquainted with the loss I had 
 sustained in the neighbourhood of Carbonara ; of 
 which, however, I judged from his manner that he 
 had been previously well-informed. He professed 
 immediately the intention of sending orders to this 
 district, that the search should be carefully re* 
 newed ; gave me confident assurance of success ; 
 and urged strongly my continuing at Ioannina till 
 his couriers should return. I consented to do this, 
 ' though almost entirely without hope on the subject. 
 The event proved that I had judged rightly in giving 
 little credit to the expectations held out. * 
 
 * The loss of my papers was not the sole misfortune I sus- 
 tained in my last journey. A diamond ring, which had been 
 entrusted to me to carry to England, was lost out of my dressing- 
 case. My suspicion fell on my Greek servant, who alone could 
 have had access to it ; and this suspicion was renewed at Ioan- 
 nina, when a valuable gold repeater, belonging to Mr. G. 
 Foresti, was missed under circumstances which again involved 
 his credit. Nothing, however, could be discovered at the time, 
 though a search into his luggage was made at Salaora; but some 
 months afterwards, by a singular train of circumstances, both the 
 watch and ring were discovered among his bed clothes, by two 
 English gentlemen with whom he was then travelling as a servant. 
 It was satisfactory to me to see the watch again at Vienna, m 
 the possession of Mr. Foresti.
 
 LAST INTERVIEW WITH ALI PASHA. 365 
 
 During my present stay at Ioannina, I was much 
 occupied in a medical capacity, both among the 
 Turkish and Greek families of the city. Among 
 other patients, on whom I attended at this time, was 
 Yusuf Aga, the old Moor of Tepeleni ; who, coming 
 to Ioannina on some business with the Vizier, had 
 been attacked, during the latter part of his journey, 
 with pleuritic symptoms of much violence. I 
 visited him at the desire of Ali Pasha, together 
 with two of the physicians of the Vizier; but this 
 was just before my departure, and his recovery was 
 still uncertain when I quitted Ioannina. 
 
 I saw Ali Pasha, for the last time, on the evening 
 of the 7th of April ; my departure, notwithstanding 
 many remonstrances on his part, having been fixed 
 for the following morning. I found him at this 
 time holding a sort of council with four of his 
 principal Turkish ministers, who were sitting on the 
 floor before him, and who, when I entered, retired 
 into an adjoining apartment. The Vizier received 
 me with peculiar kindness of manner; said, that 
 he should rely upon my not forgetting him, and 
 should still hope for my return to Ioannina at some 
 future time. He desired that I would write to him 
 whenever an occasion was afforded, and give him 
 further advice about his health. He enquired re- 
 specting my family, and told me to salute them on 
 his behalf. Unwilling to protract this interview, I 
 speedily 1 ose to depart ; certainly not without a 
 sentiment of regret in leaving a man, who, whatever 
 
 A A ^
 
 356 DEPARTURE FROM IOANNINA, 
 
 be his habits as the despotic ruler of a half-civilized 
 people, had interested me greatly by his talents, by 
 his conversation, and by the uniform courtesy and 
 kindness with which he had treated me, during my 
 several visits to his court. A sentiment, derived 
 from sources of this kind, may be admitted, not- 
 withstanding much that comes in counteraction of 
 it from the moral qualities of the mind. When I 
 rose from the couch to make my adieu, the Vizier 
 rose also, and advancing towards the middle of the 
 apartment with me, kissed each cheek in bidding 
 me farewell. This finished, I quitted, for the last 
 time, the Seraglio of Ali Pasha. 
 
 I left Ioannina early the following morning ; 
 ' unwillingly at the time, although for some days 
 preceding I had been dissatisfied with the delays 
 thrown in my way, and had become very anxious 
 to hasten my return to the Isles. But it is difficult 
 not to feel emotion in quitting a place, when there 
 is a certainty before the mind of never seeing it 
 again. I had felt such in leaving the shores of 
 Iceland -, and it was natural that it should occur, 
 when looking back for the last time on the plains, 
 the lake, the minarets, and the palaces of Ioannina, 
 I travelled to Salaora in one of the Vizier's car- 
 riages ; making this journey in two days, very nearly 
 by the same route I had taken in coming to Ioan- 
 nina the preceding autumn. From Salaora I went 
 down the gulf to Prevesa, and thence crossed over 
 to the isle of Santa Maura, where I was fortunate
 
 CONCLUSION. 357 
 
 in finding a vessel about to sail for Zante. It was 
 an additional satisfaction that the course of this 
 voyage enabled me to visit Ithaca a second time, 
 and to examine several objects which I had ne- 
 glected in my first excursion to this isle. 
 
 At this place it is necessary to take leave of the 
 reader who may have followed me thus far in the 
 narrative of my travels. To describe my return- 
 ing voyage down the Mediterranean, or a journey 
 I afterwards made across Spain from Valencia to 
 Biscay, would be to increase the size of these vo- 
 lumes by topics which are already familiar to the 
 public, or will doubtless become so from more accu- 
 rate sources of information. For the reasons given 
 in the Preface, I have confined myself, as far as 
 possible, to those districts of country which are at 
 present least known by the description of the 
 traveller ; and though in several respects, — par- 
 ticularly as to what regards the character and 
 situation of the modern Greeks, — I feel myself to 
 be superseded by other writers, yet I would wil- 
 lingly hope that the subject of Greece has not lost 
 all its interest, even amidst the details which have 
 been afforded by the accurate examination of later 
 years. The mine of discovery in this interesting 
 country cannot yet be considered as closed. 
 Olympia, Delphi, Corinth, Argos, and Thebes still 
 offer numerous objects of research ; and the for- 
 tunate result of recent undertakings of this kind 
 affords an ample encouragement for the future. 
 a a 3
 
 358 CONCLUSION. 
 
 The portions of Greece to which I have chiefly 
 directed the attention of the reader, are certainly 
 not the most interesting in reference to ancient 
 history, or ancient arts. Nevertheless it will 
 be remarked, that they furnish many valuable 
 illustrations of antiquity ; and still further, that 
 they form at this time an object of no mean 
 importance in relation to the political state of 
 Europe. The sudden creation of an active and 
 absolute power in this country, forming a single 
 force out of many parts that before were separate, 
 is well deserving of attention, both in its present 
 character, and in its influence on the future con- 
 dition of Greece. It directs the view to a period, 
 possibly not remote, when a still more active and 
 intelligent authority may sway this part of Europe ; 
 and exercise an influence upon the balance of its 
 other parts, much more important than can be 
 derived from the impotent mass of the Turkish 
 empire. 
 
 Of late years the Greeks, considering them in 
 their whole extent as a people, have been making 
 progress in population, in commerce, in education, 
 and literature ; and above all, as it would seem, in 
 that independent consciousness of power, which is 
 necessary as a step to their future liberation. From 
 what source this liberation is likely to arise, it 
 would be too much to presume, where the fact 
 itself is still of doubtful occurrence. The traveller 
 in Greece, noticing those particular vices of cha- 
 racter which are always the consequence of sla-
 
 CONCLUSION. .*.'>{) 
 
 very, and contrasting them with the temper of the 
 ancient Greeks, might be apt to believe that their 
 regeneration was impossible, and that political 
 change in this country would be but the trans- 
 ference of submission. 
 
 To such an opinion I cannot, from my own ob- 
 servation, give assent. I certainly am far from 
 believing that the ancient Greeks, with all their 
 peculiarities of national spirit and usage, will be 
 revived in the people who now inhabit this country. 
 The race has undergone many changes; — the con- 
 dition of the surrounding world still more. But 
 this belief is by no means necessary to the ques- 
 tion ; and it still remains a matter of interesting 
 speculation, whether a nation may not be created 
 in this part of Europe, either through its own or 
 foreign efforts, which may be capable of bearing a 
 part in the affairs and events of the civilized world. 
 Were the question proposed to me as one of proba- 
 bility, I should be disposed to answer in the affirm- 
 ative. The further question as to consequences, is 
 too remote, as well as too extensive, to allow me to 
 enter into its discussion. 
 
 a a h
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 Account of Major Du Bosset's Discoveries, ex- 
 tracted from the Romaic Newspaper, published 
 at Zante. See page 56. Vol. I. 
 
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 Aef\J/ava t« t6*^«0"t>]j, eku£e <ru>x sx=7va t« xofX[j,aTix tcov fuXcov, 
 xa» eSuv>;3t) ju-e awrov 7o\ Iponov vx pLSTprjcr, tx d«^6A<a tw va«, £ 
 '-btoT^ aCToSejxvusTai otj >jtov, xaT« jU-ev to fj.axp& ] 13 woScJv 
 A'yyPuxwv, xara Se to tsrXaT®' 43.
 
 36% APPENDIX. 
 
 To e<rcoTsgixov uvtS t« va« e»va» S(»jp*jjLcgi/ov eig itsvts jxepyj. eij to 
 irKaTUTsgov cvuro aura Ta jxepr) eupeS>) to uctoctoSjov, I'sravw elf to 
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 <$ij<rav, auro Qulverou, oh eip^ev eva jxiTefloc jxe7pjov xa» (Jjvo-jxo'v. 
 eupeflrjcrav •Erapojxoi'wj IxeT evaj g-eXexof jxapjaafevioj Ivoj jxixpora 
 T« ayaXjxaTOj j&uaj yuva«xo?j $ia<popou xe<paXai XeoVraiv, 8ua> 
 ETHfuXja, j«.sp»x« xepaju.w8»a xevTio-jaeva ju.s Siafopa crp^jxaTa 
 avSewv, xai 8»a^opa aXXa avaJxa/a s-oX»8»a 7« vaS ex o-jS^ps xa» 
 p^aXxS, xa$a>j axo'/w xa» /xegjxa vopJajxaTa twv AuTOXgaTOgwv 
 tjjj Kwvj-avTJVH'OJ-o'Xecoj. o' vaoj auTOj ijtov 7re£>jxuxXa>jtxivoj awo 
 /x/av roav. 
 
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 waXajS reigns t« Flgo'va, ey^ijxe woXXaj g-axTO-^xaf (xaXwej?) 
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 T« 07ro>a va e£avav fl"a;a xa» oXo'xXijga ra vexgu auifLaxa. auTat, 
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 07r3 Taj euyaX>] 7<vaf a7ro to p£«j|xa 07r5 xac 7re^<TiXuye<. 
 
 Aut>j rj ctveugeo-tg elvui 7repKro~OTsgov uirblag aXXug oc^i07rsgisgfog, 
 ensi^Yj eva toiutov eTS©^ jxv»jjxe»«;v, (7raXa<oVa7ov avajX(p<£uXa>f) 
 <pulvsTa.i OTi 8ev to yvooglfy<riv ol <piXo7reg»egJo» t^j riaXaJOTJjTOf. 
 aveupe$i)0"av -crgoj 7«7oij xal Xe»\J/ava ivoj 7raXa<« 7e<p^«j ayvco^jfs 
 iraoa 7rao"iv ei£ exeiva Ta izsgfa to bvsoiov dvcti •srjdavov, ot* o* 
 ^ajtx-joj 7o v xa7eo-xewao"av, (8uw Xe/aj jxaxgav awo t^v zroXivlctiv) 8»a 
 *a 8<au^evTe'uwo"» t^v 8»a§ao-»v tjjv jxe7a^u ^ajxs xat Tlgovv.
 
 APPENDIX. 363 
 
 No. II. 
 
 Account of Mr. Sadler's Ascent in his Balloon 
 from Dublin, extracted from the same Romaic 
 Newspaper. 
 
 O' 7regttpriix.o$ A'epovauDjj Kvgiog %a^Xsp t 6 biroiog e<p§x<re voi 
 ireptrpefcri tov otepa. scog 30 Qopoti;, ctTre<poc<n<re va. cnrtpoLj^ jxe rrjv 
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 awo lxs/v>}v 6sr3 sxajxs 6 BXavcrapdy bvroTav bieinepaas to fevov t« 
 KaAs.73TO to TO\jj.r\pbv ey^elprjfjia tspb xaipn r$r) yvcog-bvy rrj 1 t« 
 vrotpi\§0VT& O'xTC0jx/3pi« soaA^rj £<j Ivspysiav. Xotvxbv ■urep) Tr t v 1 
 woav jU.£Ta to fxso-^iMspiov auTOf a7ro to oVtn'yjTJOy (o'vopta^o'/x-svov 
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 £^u<r3crsv sxs/vtjv t^v copav awo to /xspoj to Mspjpt./3p<VG§UT»xov, xai 
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 jxaxpav. jasTa tov jxjo-s'Jjxo'vth 35 A=7rT«,auT0j syvcup/O"? Ta owva t« 
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 6 avsju.^ rjrov oXlyov S'JvaTOf, supe^r; ff^sSov i-srava) e!j t^v vf,o~ov 
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 <p.&ao->j sic to ewj^yju,T)TOV ts'a^ tm Ta£=«S/« T8 2>)A: sic to Ai- 
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 Kaga/3ia, 07:3 =tAsov /xs avo»XTa Travi'a. fO^a^OjU.sv^' Aoittov va 
 fugr; a7ro auTa /3o>;ds(av, a7re^acrjo-; tots oVov r,T5v cyvaTOV To 
 oyXtycogoTsgov vx xaT«/3>], xai $»a twto sx^jw,v/o"^f ju,s og^v /xeo~a
 
 S64> APPENDIX. 
 
 tig to weXay^. (SXeVavTaj, or* xkvevot uito rot elgyjjxeva xapa£»A, 
 Sgv eAa/x/3avs xu[x,{x.ieiv irgo<ro^rjV 7reg) tstb, oj-jj eug/crxgTO ei$ 
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 Jva ctgxerov pegog cotfiugag, xa» a<p' » t5 eirerv^ev yvSvg vol 
 ava&j uruXiv elg tov otegot, inoxrye va j*avoȣ>j xd^luv /3oJjSe<av. 
 awlgourev opt,cug •sroAvj xxigog %a>g}$ va rjf^isTogegYj va i8*j to «Sev. 
 TeXoj •BjavTwv eXotfie t»jv %agav va £avo/£>j xa» va i&rj e»£ t^v 3a- 
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 to ottoIov >]tov wAeov crujx/xa Sev ^fnrogia-e va t^v ip^ao-jj. 6 KvgiOj 
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 g(xcy£p8£W.&a;(r» xai auTOJ e»j ra. vyvma. xa» detrlfLotTa tyjs jU^avijf. 
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 sxa/xav. si? tov ?8»ov xoupbv t5 £pp»\pav £va (t^ojvjov, ct7ro to ottojov 
 «riacrfl»], xa» eAa/3s t^v 8uvajw.iv va to ttepnikv^ <r<p%™ els rag 
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 «™AA»jv copav crpo t3 va tov l/x/3a<r«)cr» /w-fcra ei^ t^v Bagxay, si?
 
 APPENDIX. 365 
 
 •njv 6c7o/av, TeAoj irarouv, tov eTpa/3«£av lfip»)jttevo» TeXWaj axl 
 raj pv(nxar« 8wvaju.fij. exeTvo to £uXov ^tov juia Bapxa onto T^v 
 Nrjo"ov Mav, smto exs/vaj SrjA : 6VS \|/agew«o"i thj 0"XMgayT^«f. cij 
 TO»auT»)v xaTaj-acriv tov eQepctv elf to Ai§egwcoA. aAAa GKeroovras 
 to 7rX^9oj tJjv SeaTtov, 6ir« tov £7rgo'o-|U.evov, xot) wvrag oX^* /Sgsy- 
 f*.iv(&' xa) xaTa£so-;£i|u.£v0' eSiw^itrs tov Kaga/3oxop>jv va, tov 
 irfiyottvri iiravai e!j tuv ^oiyocrav t>jv ovofut^ofjisv^v ng»vr£iO"crav > 
 rijj O7ro/af 6 l^80"««j^j tov eSs^T) jte £s%a>g»s->jv <piAopgoo"uvi)v, xai 
 t« eScwxsv oXrjv t^v ava\|<y^^v, 6 6Vo»a tjtov avayxaja «Ij t^» 
 TO»ayr>jvTH xaTafa<r»v. j^STfil tbto 6 Kugioj SaSXeg lwss-gf\|/«v «»s 
 to A»/3X»vov.
 
 366 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. III. 
 Account of the Opening of the Session of Parlia- 
 ment in December, 1812 ; from the Zante Ephe- 
 meris. 
 
 Aovtipa. 30 Asxe/x/3gjH. 
 EjctoSoj t« Uglyxmog AiojxtjtS slg to Ylagkuixhrov. 
 
 %rjf/.sgov to pso~r)iAEgi 6 Tlplfxity Ajojxijtjjj unto to KaATOV 
 Xaaj efSctcrev elj to riaAanov t« Sav Tm[*ss, o§sv euyijxsv elf 
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 Oucrcragwv IcruvSrrs Taj 7ragaTaj;ejj eJf Taj 6$yj xat sij to Tregt- 
 Tsiyio-fAcc t5 FlaAaTJH. 
 
 H' KaSeSga t>]£ A. B. T. Trjj ng<yx»7rlVo-r;j Ka^AoVaj tS 
 TaAAej rjTOV Ttporroiu,a.o-\i.kvy\ upso-cos \lztu tov Sgovov. 
 
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 tov Uplyxi7ra.. 
 
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 Ta£e»j eij to IlagAa/xsvTOV, xaSrjjXsvt^' Itu S^o'vb s7rpo<psgs tyjv 
 axo'Aadov bpiXlav. 
 
 MjAo'^Soj, xat Euyevelj. 
 
 Me axpuv xa» jU-jyaA^v ju.« ?Vir;c3£0-xjiay 7rp=7rst va au; elfio- 
 ■7roiijo"co s!j t^v 7rag«crav cvveXcvo-iv, on >j ocoSiveuz. t>jj A. M. 
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 oirolci; iiyjx 8»st y« avaAa/3>j ij A. M. tjjv vysiav Ttt, &C &C 
 
 10
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 367 
 
 Catalogue of officinal 
 Cephalonia. 
 
 MONANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Salicornia herbacea. 
 
 DIANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Jasminum officinal*. 
 Olea Europtta. 
 Veronica officinalis. 
 Veronica Beccabunga. 
 Rosmarinus officinalis. 
 Salvia officinalis. 
 Salvia pomifera. 
 Gratiola officinalis. 
 
 TRIANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Iris germanica. 
 
 Digynia. 
 Triticum repens. 
 
 TETRANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Scabiosa succisa. 
 Scabiosa arvensis. 
 Galium verum. 
 Rubia tinctorum. 
 Plantago major. 
 Plantago cynops. 
 
 Digynia. 
 Cuscuta Europaa. 
 
 I'EN'TANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Anchusa officinalis. 
 Cynoglossum officinale. 
 Pulmonaria officinalis. 
 Symphytum officinale. 
 Borago officinalis. 
 Primula veri-, — a officinalis. 
 Cyclamen Europxum. 
 Lonicera periclymenum. 
 Verbascum T baps us. 
 
 No. IV. 
 
 Plants growing in the Isle of 
 See page 61. Vol. 1. 
 
 Nicotiana tabacum. 
 Hyoecyamus niger. 
 Solanum melongena. 
 Solanum nigrum. 
 Viola odorata. 
 Viola tricolor. 
 Capsicum annuum. 
 Rhamnus catharticus. 
 Rhamnus zi typhus. — Ziziphus 
 
 •vulgaris . Willd. 
 Hedera Helix. 
 Vitis vinifera. 
 (3. — apyrena. 
 
 Digynia. 
 Asclepias vincetoxieum. 
 Chenopodium bonus Henficus* 
 Beta vulgaris. 
 Beta Cicla. 
 Salsola sativa. 
 Ulmus campestris. 
 Gentiana Centaurium. 
 Daucus car ota. 
 Conium maculatum. 
 Peucedanum officinale. 
 Coriandrum sativum* 
 Scandix odorata. 
 Scandix cerefolium. 
 Apium petroselinum. 
 Apium graveolens. 
 
 Trigynia. 
 Sambucus ebulus. 
 Sambucus nigra. 
 Tamarix gallica. 
 
 Pentagynia. 
 Linum usitatissimum. 
 
 HEXANDRIA. 
 Monogynia. 
 Allium porrum. 
 Allium sativum. 
 Allium cepa. 
 Lilium candidum.
 
 368 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Scilla maritima. 
 Asparagus officinalis* 
 Convallaria majalis. 
 Agave americana. 
 Trigynia. 
 Rumex patientia. 
 Rumex alpinus. 
 Rumex acutus. 
 Rumexacetosa. 
 
 Tetragynia. . 
 Colchicum autumnale. 
 
 OCTANDRIA. 
 
 Trigynia. 
 Polygonum bistorta. 
 
 ENNIANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Laurus nobilis. 
 
 DECANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Cassia senna. 
 Ruta graveolens. 
 Sedum palustre. 
 
 Pentagunia. 
 Sedum acre. 
 
 DODECANDRIA- 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Portulaca oleracea. 
 Lythrum salicaria. 
 
 Trigynia. 
 Reseda luteola. 
 
 Dodecagynia. 
 Sempervivum Tectorum. 
 
 ICOSANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Myrtus communis. 
 Punica granatum. 
 Prunus/ifl^wj. 
 Prunus cerasus. 
 Amygdalus communis. 
 Amygdalus persica. 
 
 Pentagynia. 
 Pyrus communis. 
 Pyrus cydonia. 
 
 Polygynia, 
 Rosa cent'tfolia. 
 
 Rosa alba. 
 Potentilla anserina. 
 Potentilla reptans. 
 Tormentilla ereeta. 
 
 POLYANDItJA.. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Capparis spinosa. 
 Papaver somniferum. 
 Papaver Rhoeas. 
 
 Digynia. 
 Pseonia officinalis. 
 
 Trigynia. 
 Delphinium Staphisagria-. 
 
 Polygynia. 
 Anemone hepatica. 
 Anemone pratensis. 
 Clematis recta* 
 Helleborus niger. 
 
 DIDYNAMJA* 
 Gymnospermia. 
 
 Teucrium pseudo-chamepityr*. 
 
 Teucrium scordium. 
 
 Teucrium chamcedrys. 
 
 Hyssopus officinalis. 
 
 Lavandula spica. 
 
 Mentha piperitis. 
 
 Mentha pulegium. 
 
 Glecoma hederacea. 
 
 Betonica officinalis*, 
 
 Marrubium vulgare. 
 
 Origanum vulgare. 
 
 Origanum majorana. 
 
 Thymus vulgaris. 
 
 Melissa officinalis. 
 
 Ocymum Basilicum. 
 
 Angiospermia^ 
 Scrophularia nodosa. 
 Vitex agnus-castus . 
 
 TETRADYNAMIA. 
 
 Siliculosa. 
 Lepidium sativum. 
 Cochlearia officinalis. 
 Cochlearia armoracia. 
 
 Siliquosa. 
 Cardamine pratensis. 
 Erysimum officinale. 
 Brassica (multae jpeeiei)-
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 369 
 
 Sinapis nigra. 
 Raphanus sati-vus. 
 
 MONADELPHIA. 
 Polyandria. 
 Althaea officinalis. 
 Malva rotundifolia. 
 Gossypium herbaceum. 
 
 D1ADELPHIA. 
 
 Hexandria. 
 Fumaria officinalis. 
 
 Decandria. 
 Genista tinctoria. 
 Ononis spinosa. 
 Glycyrrhiza glabra. 
 
 POLYADEXPHIA. 
 
 Icosandria. 
 
 Citrus medica. 
 Citrus aurantium. 
 
 Polyandria. 
 Hypericum quadrangulare. 
 
 SYNGENESIA. 
 
 jEqualis. 
 Scorzonera hispanica. 
 Leontodon taraxacum. 
 Cichorium intybus. 
 Atractylis gummifera. 
 Arctium lappa. 
 Cynara scolymus. 
 Carthamus tinctorius. 
 
 Superjlua. 
 Tanacetum vulgare. 
 Tanacetum balsamita. — T. ar- 
 
 genteum P vel T. internum ? 
 Artemisia abrotanum. 
 Artemisia absinthium. 
 Tussilago farfara. 
 Matricaria chamomilla. 
 Anthemis nobilis. 
 
 Necessaria. 
 Calendula officinalis. 
 
 GYNANDRIA. 
 Monandria. 
 Orchis morio. 
 
 Hexandria, 
 Aristolochia rotunda. 
 
 MONOECIA. 
 
 Tetrandri, .. 
 Urtica dioica. 
 Morus nigra. 
 
 Polyandria 
 Arum maculatum. 
 Betula alba 
 Quercus cerris. 
 Quercus robur. 
 
 Monadelphia. 
 Pinus sylvestris. 
 Pinus abies. 
 
 Cupressus sempervirens. 
 Ricinus communis. 
 Momordica elaterium. 
 Bryonia alba. 
 
 DIOECIA. 
 
 Diandria. 
 Salix pentandria. 
 
 Pentandria. 
 Spinacia oleracea. 
 
 Hexandria. 
 Smilax aspera. 
 
 Enneandria. 
 Mercurialis annua 
 
 POJLYGAMIA. 
 
 Monoecia. 
 Parietaria officinalis. 
 Atriplex patula. 
 
 Dioecia. 
 Ceratonia siliqua. 
 
 CRYPTOGAMIA. 
 
 Filices. 
 Asplenium Ceteracb. 
 Polypodium Filix major. 
 
 Algx. 
 Lichen {plures species.} 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 B B
 
 S70 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. V. 
 
 Catalogue of Plants met with in the Environs of 
 Ioannina. See page 141. 
 
 MONANDRIA. 
 Monogynia. 
 Salicornia herbacea. 
 
 DIANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Verbena officinalis. 
 Veronica Beccabunga. 
 
 spicata. 
 
 ' cordifolia — V. agrestis ? 
 
 pseudo-cbamtedrysj Jacq.- 
 
 latifolia, Willd. 
 
 Lycopus Europteus. 
 Ligustrum vulgare. 
 Jasminum fruticans. 
 Pinguicula vulgaris. 
 Salvia officinalis. 
 Salvia Horminum. 
 ■ " ■ sclarea. 
 
 TRIANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Crocus sylvestris. 
 Iris palustris — pseud- Acorus ? 
 — germanica, 
 Valeriana officinalis. 
 dioica. 
 
 Digynia. 
 Arundo lacustris — Phragmites ? 
 Avena prat ens is. 
 
 flexuosa — disticbophylla ? 
 
 Cynosurus inflatus — spharoce- 
 
 phalus. 
 Dactylis glomerata. 
 Hordeum murinum. 
 
 TETRANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Aphanes arvensis. 
 Cernus mascula. 
 sanguinea. 
 
 Gallium aparine. 
 
 verum. 
 
 Plantago major. 
 
 lanceolata. 
 
 Rubia tinctorum. 
 — — peregrina. 
 Scabiosa vulgaris. 
 • succisa. 
 Digynia. 
 Cuscuta Europ&a. 
 
 FENTANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Anchusa officinalis. 
 Atropa Belladonna. 
 Anagallis arvensis. 
 Campanula medium. 
 
 . Hybrida. 
 
 —— speculum veneris. 
 
 ■ sanabilis. 
 
 Convolvulus Sepium. 
 Datura stramonium. 
 
 Metel. 
 
 Echium vulgare. 
 Hedera Helix. 
 Hyoscyamus niger. 
 Lithospermum arvensis. 
 Lysimachia vulgaris, 
 Lonicera caprifolium. 
 Lycopsis pulla. 
 Onosma orientalis. 
 Primula minima. 
 Plumbago officinalis. 
 Rhamnus paliurus. 
 Solanum vulgare — nigrum ? 
 ■ Dulcamara. 
 
 ■ lycopersicum. 
 
 Symphitum consolida. 
 Vitis vinifera. 
 Ulmus campestris.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 371 
 
 Verbascum Thapstu. 
 
 blattaria. 
 
 — Phanicum. 
 
 Viola montana. 
 
 Digynia. 
 
 Apium graveolens. 
 Bupleurum lanceolatum. 
 Conium maculatutn. 
 Chenopodium vulgare. 
 Eryngium maritimum. 
 
 campestre. 
 
 Gentiana centaureum. 
 
 cruciata. 
 
 Herniaria glabra. 
 Rhus coriaria. 
 Scandix cerefolium. 
 Scandix pec ten veneris. 
 Selinum palustre. 
 
 Trigynia. 
 Viburnum. 
 
 Alsine vulgaris — media 
 Sambucus nigra. 
 ■ Ebulus. 
 
 Pentagynia. 
 Crassula orbicularis. 
 
 HEXANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Asphodel us luteus. 
 Asparagus officinalis. 
 Convallaria Majalis. 
 • polygonatum. 
 
 Hyacinthus communis — 
 
 tus ? 
 Ornithogalum minimum. 
 — Pyrenaicum. 
 ■ - 1 Narbonense. 
 
 pyramidale. 
 
 — umbellatum. 
 
 Tulipa Gesneriana. 
 
 Trigynia. 
 Rumex acetosa. 
 — Acetosella. 
 
 Tetragynia. 
 Colchicum autumnale. 
 Alisma plantago. 
 
 OCTANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Epilobium palustre. 
 
 Trigynia. 
 Polygonum Persicaria. 
 
 ENNEANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia, 
 Lauras nobilis. 
 
 Hexagynia. 
 Butomus umbellatus. 
 
 DECANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Zygophyllum Fabago. 
 Dictamnus albus. 
 
 Digynia. 
 Dianthus cartbusianorunu 
 
 • barbatus. 
 
 • prolifer. ' 
 - fasciculatus. 
 Silena Muscipula. 
 Saxafraga coronaria, 
 
 Trigynia. 
 p Cucubalus Beheu. 
 
 Pentagynia. 
 Sedum album. 
 
 Rupestre. 
 
 Agrostema Githago. 
 Lichnis dioica. 
 Oxalis acetosella. 
 Phytolacca decandra. 
 
 DODECANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Lithrum salicaria. 
 nonscrip- Nitraria. 
 
 Digynia. 
 Agrimonia eupatoria. 
 ' -Agrimonioides. 
 
 Trigynia. 
 Euphorbia. 
 Reseda major. 
 
 Dodecagynia. 
 Sempervivum Tectorum. 
 
 ICOSANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Myrtu3 communis. 
 Punica granatum. 
 Prunus spinosa. 
 
 Trigynia. 
 Crataegus oxyacantba. 
 Sorbus domes tica. 
 
 B B <2
 
 372 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Tetragynia. 
 Spirea crenata. 
 
 Polgynia. 
 Geum urbanum. 
 Rosa canina. 
 Rubus Idaus. 
 
 POLYANDRIA. 
 
 Monogynia. 
 Chelidonium majus. 
 ■ corniculatum. 
 
 • glaucium. 
 Cistus arabicus. 
 Nymphea alba. 
 
 • lute a. 
 
 Papaver rhoeas. 
 
 • hispidum. 
 Tilia europaa. 
 
 Trigynia. 
 Aconitum napellus. 
 Delphinium Ajacis. 
 
 Polygyria. 
 Adonis vernalis. 
 Anemone pratensis.. 
 Helleborus niger. 
 Ranunculus aquatilis. 
 
 . muricatus. 
 
 luteus — acris ? 
 
 — — trilobus. 
 
 bulbosus. 
 
 arvensts. 
 
 Ficaria. 
 
 Sceleratus. 
 
 DIDYNAMIA. 
 Gymnospermia. 
 Ballota nigra. 
 Clinopodium vulgare. 
 
 Botrys. 
 
 Mentha aquatica. 
 
 sylvestris. 
 
 ~ arvensis. 
 
 Pule glum. 
 
 Origanum "vulgare. 
 Prunella 'vulgaris. 
 Stachys syli'atica. 
 Teucrium scordium. 
 
 pseudo-chamttpitys. 
 
 Marrubium album. 
 
 v ulgare. 
 
 Scutellaria galericulata. 
 
 Angiospermia. 
 Antirrhinum linaria. 
 Euphrasia officinalis. 
 Vitex agnus-castus. 
 Scrophularia nodosa. 
 
 TETBADYNAMIA* 
 
 Siliculosa. 
 Draba 'verna. 
 Drab a incana. 
 Thlapsi Bursa-pastoris. 
 
 Siliquosa. 
 Arabis alpinus. 
 Erysimum alliaria. 
 Raphanus Raphanistrum. 
 Sinapis awensis. 
 Sisymbrium Nasturtium. 
 
 " Sophia. 
 
 Turitis glabra. 
 
 MONADELPHIA. 
 
 Decandria. 
 Geranium moschatum. 
 
 lucidum. 
 
 — — — — Robertianum. 
 columbinum. 
 
 Polyandria. 
 Alcea arborea — Althaea ffcifolia ? 
 Althsea officinalis. 
 Malva sylvestris. 
 
 DIADELPHIA. 
 
 Hexandria. 
 Fumaria officinalis. 
 
 Decandria. 
 Astragalus glycypbyllus- 
 Coronilla varia. 
 Hedysarum fruticosum. 
 Lathyrus Cicer. 
 Ononis spinosa. 
 Orobus Pyrenaicum. 
 Trifolium pratense. 
 
 Lappaceum. 
 
 purpureum. 
 
 rubens- 
 
 agrarium. 
 
 corniculatum. 
 
 Vicia septum.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 373 
 
 POLYADELPHIA. 
 
 Polyandria. 
 Hypericum perforatum. 
 
 SYNGENESIA. 
 
 JEqualis. 
 Arctium lappa. 
 Bidens tripartita. 
 Carduus lanceolatus. 
 Cichoreum Intybus. 
 Eupatorium Canabina. 
 Lactuca •virosa. 
 Onopordon Acanthium. 
 
 SuperJIua. 
 Achillea millefolium. 
 Artemisia Abrotanum. 
 
 absinthium. 
 
 Anthemis Tinctoria. 
 
 Co tula. 
 
 —————— nobilis. 
 
 Aster alpinus. 
 
 Tripolium. 
 
 Bellis perennis. 
 Matricaria Chamomilla. 
 Senecio vulgaris. 
 Tanacetum t'ulgare. 
 Chrysanthemum inodorum. 
 
 Necessaria- 
 Filago pyramidalis. 
 
 Frustanea. 
 Centaurea Benedicta. 
 
 Cyarius. 
 
 • Calcitrapa. 
 
 MONOECIA. 
 
 Monandria. 
 Ceratocarpus arcnarius. 
 
 Tetrandria. 
 Urtica dioica. 
 
 Xanthium ttrumarium. 
 
 Polyandria. 
 Arum Dracunculus. 
 
 lanceolatum — tenuifolium ? 
 
 Quercus erinita. 
 
 • Infectoria. 
 
 — — — agilops. 
 
 Monadelphia. 
 Bryonia officinalis — alba ? 
 Pinus Pinea. 
 Ricinus communis. 
 
 niOECTA. 
 
 Diandria. 
 Salix Helix. 
 Babylonica. 
 
 • Betiolus. 
 
 pentandria. 
 
 luprica. 
 
 Tetrandria. 
 Pistacia lentiscus. 
 
 Hexandria. ' 
 Populus alba. 
 nigra. 
 
 Octandria. 
 Mercurialis perennis. 
 
 Polyandria. 
 Juniperus sabina. 
 
 POLYGAMIA. 
 
 Monoecia. 
 Holcus saccbaratus. 
 
 Dioecia. 
 Diospyrus lotus. 
 
 CRYProGAMIA. 
 Alga:. 
 Marchantia Polymorpha. 
 
 Fungi. 
 Lycoperdon tuberosum. 
 
 B R $
 
 INDEX. 
 
 AbRANTES, medical hospitals at 
 Academies in Ioannina - 
 Actium, battle of, illustrated 
 Agriculture of the plains near Trikala 
 
 of the plains near Larissa 
 
 of the plains near the mouth of the Salympria 
 
 of the vale of Deropuli 
 Antiquities in Zante - 
 
 in Cephalonia - 
 
 in Ithaca - 
 
 at Nicopolis - - 
 
 near Ioannina - - 
 
 of Salonica 
 
 at Cheroneea 
 
 at Thebes - 
 
 Thespia - - - - 
 
 Plataea - 
 
 Corinth - - 
 
 Mycenae - 
 
 Palaia-Venetia - - 
 
 near Olitza - - 
 
 near Libochovo - 
 
 at Gradista 
 Acheron of the ancients, the river Suli 
 Albanta, Geography of 
 Albanians, origin of 
 
 history of 
 Albanian soldier described 
 
 army, character of - 
 
 army, in battle - - - 
 
 music and dance - i. 11 
 
 migratory shepherds 
 
 r b 4 
 
 Vol. 
 
 Page 
 4 
 
 - i. 
 
 218 
 
 - i. 
 
 108 
 
 i. 355. 
 
 359 
 405 
 
 - ii. 
 
 22 
 
 - ii. 
 
 287 
 
 - i. 
 
 24 
 
 i. 5i 
 
 ». 56 
 
 - i. 
 
 79 
 
 - i. 
 
 103 
 
 - i. 
 
 - ii. 
 
 207 
 50 
 
 - ii. 
 
 161 
 
 - ii. 
 
 169 
 
 - ii. 
 
 172 
 
 - ii. 
 
 175 
 
 - ii. 
 
 196 
 
 - ii. 
 
 198 
 
 - ii. 
 
 257 
 
 - ii. 
 
 264 
 
 - ii. 
 
 289 
 
 - ii. 
 
 320 
 
 - ii. 
 
 232 
 
 - i. 
 
 143 
 
 i. 
 
 145 
 
 - i. 
 
 147 
 
 i. 
 
 198 
 
 i. 
 
 161 
 
 i. 
 
 403 
 
 4. 115. 
 
 242 
 
 - i. 
 
 132
 
 376 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Ali Pasha, his conduct at Prevesa 
 
 sketch of his life 
 
 territories subject to him 
 
 tenure of his dominion - 
 
 military power 
 
 population of his dominions 
 
 revenue 
 
 character of his government 
 
 first interview with 
 
 features and person 
 
 conversations with him i. 
 
 gardens and pavilion 
 
 his physicians 
 
 medical attendance on 
 
 general intercourse with 
 
 anecdotes of - 
 
 his judicial character 
 
 domestic habits 
 
 Seraglios and Haram 
 
 religion and superstition 
 
 vices 
 
 influence of his government 
 
 his ministers 
 
 war against the Suliotes 
 
 massacre of the Gardikiotes 
 
 last interview with 
 Ampelachia, town of 
 
 its inhabitants described 
 Apollonia, ruins of - 
 Argyro-Kastro 
 
 Archbishop of Larissa, Polycarp 
 Archipelago, pirates of 
 Arta, gulph of 
 Argos - 
 Argostoli 
 Athens, ' description of 
 
 climate of 
 
 society at - 
 Athenians, character of 
 Athos, Mount 
 Avlona 
 
 Vol. Page 
 95 
 148 
 156 
 158 
 160 
 165 
 166 
 170 
 179 
 180 
 181. 260. ii. 220. 273. 352 
 
 - i. 192 
 
 - i. 235 
 
 - i. 253 
 
 - i. 258 
 
 - i. 263 
 
 - i. 268 
 
 - i. 272 
 i. 101. 175. 273. ii. 309 
 
 - i. 277 
 ibid. 
 
 - i. 282 
 
 - i. 284 
 
 - ii. 237 
 
 - ii. 297 
 
 1 < 
 
 ii. 355 
 ii. 8 
 
 10 
 
 327 
 
 290 
 
 121 
 
 76 
 
 i. 110. ii. 221 
 - ii. 200 
 
 i. 370. 
 
 n. 
 
 ii. 
 ii. 
 ii. 
 ii. 
 
 - i. 52 
 
 - ii. 179 
 ii. 184 note. 
 
 - ii. 187 
 
 - ii. 185 
 
 - ii. 74 
 
 - ii. X\7
 
 Vol. 
 - i. 
 
 Page 
 
 50 
 
 - i. 
 
 191 
 
 - i. 
 
 360 
 
 - ii. 
 
 47 
 
 i. 290 note. 
 
 - ii. 
 
 171 
 
 INDEX. 377 
 
 B 
 
 Black Mountain (Mount iEnos) 
 Bazars of Ioannina 
 
 of Trikala - 
 
 of Salonica 
 Buyrouldi, or official mandate of Ali Pasha 
 Boeotia - 
 
 dress, and beauty of the women - - ii. ibid. 
 
 C 
 
 Caldas, mineral waters at - 
 
 Carbonara, town of - - 
 
 Cephalonia - - 
 
 population and commerce 
 
 plants in, Appendix 
 Cephaloniotes, character of - 
 
 Cerigo - 
 
 Cinque Pozzi 
 Climate of Ioannina 
 
 Salonica - 
 
 Athens - 
 Chilidromi, isle of - 
 
 Cherontea - 
 
 Commerce of Zante 
 
 Cephalonia - 
 
 Ithaca - - - 
 
 Santa Maura - - 
 
 the gulph of Arta - - - 
 
 the Greeks of Ioannina 
 
 Ampelachia - - - 
 
 Salonica - 
 
 Salona - 
 
 .Livadia - 
 
 Hydra ... 
 
 Pat r as - - - 
 
 Avlona - 
 Commerce, singular transit ... 
 Cotton plant, culture of, in the plains of Trikala 
 
 manufacture of - - - i. 
 
 Corinth - - 
 
 - i. 
 
 3 
 
 - ii. 
 
 318 
 
 - i. 
 
 48 
 
 - i. 
 
 51 
 
 - i. 
 
 67 
 
 - i. 
 
 61 
 
 - i. 
 
 130 
 
 - i. 
 
 198 
 
 - ii. 
 
 70 
 
 ii. 184 note. 
 
 - ii. 
 
 83 
 
 - ii. 
 
 161 
 
 - i. 
 
 29 
 
 - i. 
 
 51 
 
 - i. 
 
 75 
 
 - i. 
 
 90 
 
 - i. 
 
 122 
 
 - i. 
 
 215 
 
 - ii. 
 
 9 
 
 - ii. 
 
 59 
 
 ii. 153 
 
 note. 
 
 - ii. 
 
 161 
 
 ii. 203 
 
 note. 
 
 - ii. 
 
 216 
 
 - ii. 
 
 337 
 
 - ii. 
 
 59 
 
 i. 
 
 359 
 
 383. 
 
 ii. 9 
 
 - ii. 
 
 197
 
 378 INDEX. 
 
 
 
 
 D 
 
 
 
 
 
 Vol. 
 
 Page 
 
 Dances of the Roraaika and Albanitiko 
 
 - i. 115. 
 
 242 
 
 Delphi 
 
 - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 156 
 
 Delvinaki, town of 
 
 - 
 
 * ii. 
 
 282 
 
 Djeridi, Turkish equestrian game 
 
 - ii. 272 
 
 note. 
 
 Dervishes described 
 
 - 
 
 - ii. 2. 
 
 270 
 
 Deropuli, vale of 
 
 - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 285 
 
 Dodona, site of the oracle 
 
 - 
 
 - i. 
 
 206 
 
 Dress of the Greeks 
 
 - 
 
 - i. 
 
 244 
 
 of the Tartar guides 
 
 - 
 
 - i. 292. i 
 
 i. 34 
 
 the Theban women 
 
 - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 171 
 
 Didaskalos, or Greek schoolmaster 
 
 - i. 
 
 77 
 
 Dium, site of the ancient 
 
 - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 30 
 
 Dogs, shepherds' in Greece 
 
 - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 230 
 
 Doric column of Apollonia 
 
 E 
 
 - ii. 
 
 331 
 
 Etna 
 
 - 
 
 - i. 
 
 12 
 
 Earthquakes electrical 
 
 - 
 
 - i. 
 
 29 
 
 Falls of Glissani ii. 278 
 
 G 
 
 Gibraltar 
 
 Gardens of AH Pasha 
 
 Greek, regiment - 
 
 schoolmaster - 
 
 metropolitan church 
 Greeks of Ioannina 
 
 their commerce 
 
 literary character of - 
 
 mode of life » 
 
 character and habits of the women 
 
 domestic economy 
 
 merchants ... 
 
 priests - 
 
 dress - - 
 
 persons - 
 
 5 
 192 
 46 
 77 
 392 
 213 
 216 
 217 
 220 
 222 
 225 
 240 
 241 
 244 
 247
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Greeks, political sentiments of 
 
 probable political fate 
 Greek, literary characters - i. 60. 62. 235 
 
 newspapers - 
 
 Geographical remarks on the position of Metzovo 
 
 on the Pindus chain 
 Geography, ancient, illustrated ; 
 
 Dodona ... 
 
 Pindus chain 
 
 Athamania - 
 
 Rocks of Meteora 
 
 Larissa - - 
 
 Dium - 
 
 Shores of the gulph of Zeitun 
 
 Town of Zeitun 
 
 Thermopylae 
 
 Suli river, the Acheron of the ancients 
 
 Palaia-Venetia 
 
 District near Tepeleni 
 
 Apollonia - 
 
 Gardikiotes, massacre of - 
 Gardiki, town of, striking spectacle 
 Glissani, falls of - 
 
 Gradista, ruins at - 
 
 Latin inscription at - - 
 
 Vol. 
 
 Page 
 
 - i. 
 
 395 
 
 - ii. 
 
 358 
 
 5. 250. 361. 
 
 369. 
 
 384. 395. i 
 
 . 97. 
 
 - i. 
 
 43 
 
 tzovo - i. 
 
 307 
 
 - - i. 
 
 316 
 
 - i. 
 
 209 
 
 - i. 
 
 318 
 
 - i. 
 
 331 
 
 - i. 
 
 347 
 
 - i. 
 
 390 
 
 - ii. 
 
 30 
 
 - ii. 
 
 99 
 
 - ii. 
 
 106 
 
 - ii. 
 
 135 
 
 - ii. 
 
 232 
 
 - ii. 
 
 261 
 
 - ii. 
 
 312 
 
 - ii. 
 
 327 
 
 - ii. 
 
 297 
 
 - ii. 
 
 303 
 
 - ii. 
 
 278 
 
 - ii. 
 
 320 
 
 - ii. 322 
 
 note. 
 
 H 
 
 Helicon Mount 
 
 History, ancient, illustrated; 
 
 Actium, battle of 
 
 By the Geography of the Pindus chain 
 
 Battle of Pydna 
 
 Zeitun - - 
 
 Battle of Pharsalia 
 
 Thermopylae 
 
 Battle of Plateea 
 
 Inflammable springs of Nymphaeum 
 Hydra, commerce of - 
 
 Hospitals in the Peninsula 
 
 ii. 166 
 
 - i. 
 
 108 
 
 - i. 
 
 324 
 
 - ii. 
 
 35 
 
 - ii. 
 
 107 
 
 - ii. 
 
 116 
 
 - ii. 
 
 138 
 
 - ii. 
 
 174 
 
 - ii. 
 
 345 
 
 ii. 203 
 
 note. 
 
 i. 
 
 o
 
 380 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Ionian Isles, modern history of 
 Ithaca, island of - 
 
 population and produce 
 
 antiquities of 
 Ioannina, great Seraglio of 
 
 description of 
 
 population 
 
 police 
 
 climate 
 
 lake of 
 
 plants near, Appendix 
 
 history of 
 
 Greek inhabitants of 
 
 academies in 
 
 literary men in 
 
 merchants in 
 
 priests, Greek in 
 Inscription Greek, at Thespia 
 
 Latin, at Gradista 
 Inflammable spring of Nymphseum 
 Ishmael Bey of Seres 
 
 Vol. 
 
 Page 
 
 i. 
 
 38 
 
 l. 
 
 72 
 
 1. 
 
 75 
 
 i. 
 
 78 
 
 i. 
 
 175 
 
 i. 
 
 186 
 
 i. 
 
 194 
 
 
 198 
 
 
 ibid. 
 
 i. 
 
 201 
 
 i. 
 
 203 
 
 i. 
 
 213 
 
 i. 
 
 218 
 
 i. 
 
 233 
 
 i. 
 
 240 
 
 i. 
 
 241 
 
 ii. 
 
 173 
 
 ii. 
 
 322 
 
 ii. 
 
 345 
 
 ii. 
 
 69 
 
 K 
 
 Khan of Kyra 
 Kalabaka, town of 
 Katrina, town of 
 Kahuna river 
 Kalutzi, plain of 
 
 Lake of Ioannina 
 of Copais 
 of Tzerovina 
 
 Larissa 
 
 population 
 archbishopric of 
 plains round 
 
 Lipari Isles 
 
 299 
 
 - i. 
 
 335 
 
 - ii. 
 
 32 
 
 - ii. 
 
 253 
 
 - ii. 
 
 318 
 
 - i. 
 
 201 
 
 - ii. 
 
 167 
 
 - ii. 
 
 281 
 
 i. 369. 
 
 384 
 
 i. 
 
 385 
 
 - i. 
 
 370 
 
 l. 
 
 404 
 
 - i. 
 
 10
 
 INDEX. 381 
 
 Vol. Page 
 Litochori, town of - - - ii. 26 
 
 Libochovo, town of - ii. 288 
 
 Leuterochori, town of ii. 37 
 
 Livadia - - - - - ii. 159. 16J 
 
 M 
 
 Mineralogical remarks on the mountains of Murcia, 
 
 on Sardinia - 
 
 on the Lipari Isles 
 
 on Zante 
 
 on the hills near ArgostoH - 
 
 on Ithaca - 
 
 on the calcareous formation of Albania 
 
 on the rocks near Ioannina 
 
 on the ridge between Ioannina and Arta 
 
 on the ridge of Pindus 
 
 singular peak of serpentine 
 
 on the rocks of Meteora 
 
 on the hills near Zarko 
 
 on the rocks of Tempe 
 
 near Platomana 
 
 on the environs of Salonica 
 
 on the rocks near Trikeri 
 
 on the chain of CEta 
 
 on Attica - 
 
 on the Geranion mountains 
 
 on the Suli mountains 
 
 on the country between Olitzka and the Suli moun- 
 tains - - 
 
 on the hill on which Soulias stands 
 
 on the country between Ioannina and Argyro- 
 Kastro 
 Mineral waters at Caldas 
 Mineral pitch mines at Selenitza 
 Manners and Customs of the Zantiotes 
 
 the Cephaloniotes • * - 
 
 the Greeks of Ioannina 
 
 the Turks 
 
 i. 
 
 6 note. 
 
 - i. 
 
 7 
 
 note. 
 
 - i. 
 
 11 
 
 note. 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 27 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 60 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 14 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 128 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 203 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 309 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 315 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 329 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 349 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 365 
 
 - 
 
 ii. 
 
 17 
 
 - 
 
 ii. 
 
 26 
 
 - 
 
 ii. 
 
 52 
 
 - 
 
 ii. 
 
 98 
 
 - ii. 
 
 148 
 
 151 
 
 - ii. 
 
 191 
 
 note. 
 
 - 
 
 ii. 
 
 195 
 
 - 
 
 ii. 
 
 245 
 
 »uli moun- 
 
 
 - 
 
 ii. 
 
 264 
 
 - 
 
 ii. 
 
 255 
 
 Argyro- 
 
 
 - 
 
 ii. 
 
 286 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 3 
 
 - 
 
 ii. 
 
 340 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 32 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 57 
 
 - 
 
 i. 
 
 220 
 
 387. 
 
 ii. 
 
 115
 
 ii. 
 
 185 
 
 i. 
 
 239 
 
 i. 
 
 306 
 
 i. 
 
 308 
 
 i. 
 
 337 
 
 i. 
 
 347 
 
 i. 
 
 339 
 
 i. 
 
 341 
 
 i. 
 
 346 
 
 ii. 
 
 48 
 
 ii. 
 
 237 
 
 ii. 
 
 270 
 
 i. 
 
 339 
 
 ii. 
 
 279 
 
 ii. 
 
 325 
 
 ii. 
 
 198 
 
 382 INDEX. 
 
 Vol. Page 
 Manners and Customs of the inhabitants of Salonica ii. 55 
 
 the Athenians - - 
 
 Medicine, state of, in Greece 
 Metzovo, town of, - 
 
 rivers rising near - - - 
 
 Meteora rocks - 
 
 probably known to the ancients 
 
 monasteries - - 
 
 ascent to one in a net 
 
 their origin - 
 
 Mosques of Salonica - - 
 
 Mouctar Aga 
 
 Mouctar Pasha, one of Ali Pasha's sons 
 Monasteries of Meteora - 
 
 of Sosino - 
 
 ofPollina - 
 
 Mycenae, ruins of - - 
 
 N 
 
 Newspapers, Greek - - - - i. 43 
 
 Nicopolis, ruins of - - - - i. 103 
 
 Nymphseum, inflammable spring of - - ii. 345 
 
 O 
 
 Oak, Valonia - 
 
 iron or Turkey 
 Ossa mount - 
 
 and Pelion 
 Olympus mount 
 
 Othrys mount, dangerous passage over 
 CEta, chain of 
 Olitzka, ridges of 
 
 ruins near - 
 
 Population of Sardinia 
 Zante 
 Ioanian Isles 
 
 61 
 
 . 127 
 
 . 305 
 
 
 - i. 
 
 304 
 
 - 
 
 ii. 
 
 3. 22 
 
 
 - ii. 
 
 96 
 
 
 - ii. 
 
 27 
 
 
 - ii. 
 
 129 
 
 
 - ii. 
 
 147 
 
 
 - ii. 
 
 264 
 
 
 - ii. 
 
 266 
 
 
 i. 8 
 
 note. 
 
 
 i. 
 
 20 
 
 
 i. 
 
 39
 
 INDEX. 383 
 
 Vol. Page 
 
 Population of Argostoli - . - i. 48 
 
 Cephalonia - - . - - i. 51 
 
 Ithaca - - . . - i. 75 
 
 Vathi . . . . - i. 76 
 
 town of Santa Maura - - - i. 87 
 
 island of - - . - i. 90 
 
 Arta - . . - i. 121 
 
 AH Pasha's dominions - - - i. 1 64 
 
 loannina - - - - i. 194 
 
 Metzovo - - - - . i. 307 
 
 the Pindus chain - - - . i. 326 
 
 Trikala - - . . - i. 356 
 
 Larissa - - - - i. 384 
 
 Thessaly - - - _ _ j. 405 
 
 Elasson - - - - ii. 4 
 
 Salonica - - - _ - ii. 52 
 
 Livadia - - . - ii. 161 
 
 Argos - - . . i|. 200 
 
 Hydra - - - - - - ii. 202 
 
 Tripolitza - - - . . ii. 208 
 
 Patras - - - - ii. 216 
 
 Delvinaki - - - - ii. 
 
 Argyro Kastro - - - . ii. 282 
 
 Avlona - - - . . ii. 337 
 
 Pavilion of AH Pasha - - - - i. 192 
 
 Physicians, Greek - - i. 357. 369. ii. 125. 210 
 
 Physicians of loannina - - _ J. 235 
 
 Priests, Greek, of . - - i. 241 
 
 Polycarp, archbishop of Larissa - - i. 3/0. ii. 121 
 
 Pitch wells of Zante - - - - i. 25 
 
 mines of Selenitza - - - ii. 340 
 
 Prevesa - - - - i. 94 
 
 Pindus chain - - - - i. 311 
 
 its ancient and modern geography - - i. 316 
 
 population - - - - . i. 326 
 
 Plague at Constantinople, mortality during - - i. 383 
 
 Pashu Bey - - - . i. 400 
 
 Platomana, castle of - ii. 23 
 
 Pydna, battle of, illustrated - - - ii. 35 
 
 Pharsalia, do. do. - - - - ii. 116
 
 384 INDEX. 
 
 Plataea, battle of, illustrated 
 Plateea, ruins at - 
 Pharsalia - • 
 
 Pirates of the Archipelago 
 Pelion mount 
 Parnassus mount 
 Patras, town of 
 Paramithia, valley of 
 
 city of 
 Palaia-Venetia, ruins at 
 Pollina, monasteries of 
 Peneus river, or Salympria 
 
 valley of - - 
 
 R 
 
 Romaika, dance 
 
 Romaic language 
 
 Rivers that rise near Metzovo 
 
 Ruins at Aito, in Ithaca 
 
 Cheronsea 
 
 Thebes 
 
 Thespia 
 
 Corinth 
 
 Mycenae 
 
 Palaia-Venetia 
 
 near the gulph of Arta 
 
 of a magnificent theatre 
 
 near Libochovo 
 
 at Gradista 
 
 Santarem hospital, and lines 
 
 Sardinia 
 
 Sicily - - - 
 
 Scenery of the Straits of Gibraltar 
 
 near the city of Zante 
 
 in Ithaca 
 
 in the gulph of Arta 
 
 from Cinque Pozzi 
 
 Vol. 
 
 Page 
 
 - ii. 
 
 174 
 
 - i. 
 
 175 
 
 - ii. 
 
 114 
 
 - ii. 
 
 77 
 
 - ii. 
 
 95 
 
 - ii. 149. 
 
 166 
 
 - ii. 
 
 216 
 
 - ii. 
 
 250 
 
 - ii. 
 
 251 
 
 - ii. 
 
 257 
 
 - ii. 
 
 325 
 
 i. 367. ". H 
 
 - i. 330. 
 
 358 
 
 - i. 
 
 242 
 
 - i. 
 
 248 
 
 - i. 
 
 308 
 
 - i. 
 
 79 
 
 - ii. 
 
 161 
 
 - ii. 
 
 168 
 
 - ii. 
 
 172 
 
 - ii. 
 
 197 
 
 - ii. 
 
 198 
 
 - ii. 
 
 257 
 
 - ii. 
 
 224 
 
 - ii. 
 
 265 
 
 - ii. 
 
 289 
 
 - ii. 
 
 320 
 
 1. 2 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 22 
 
 79 
 
 110 
 
 130
 
 INDEX. 385 
 
 Scenery approaching Ioannina 
 
 on the ridge of Metzoukel 
 
 on the ridge of Pindus 
 
 of the rocks and monasteries of Meteora 
 
 in front of Kalabaka 
 
 between Larissa and Tempe 
 
 of Tempe - 
 
 in approaching Salonica 
 
 of the shores of the Maliac gulph 
 
 from Chilidromi - 
 
 nearThomoko - 
 
 of the chain of CEta 
 
 in approaching Athens 
 
 round the city 
 
 of the river and mountains of Suli 
 
 from the Seraglio of Suli 
 
 from Palaia-Venetia 
 
 of the vale of Deropuli 
 
 near Tepeleni - - 
 
 Sirocco wind described, probably electrical 
 Seraglios of Prevesa - 
 
 Ioannina - 
 
 of Suli - 
 
 Tepeleni - 
 
 Salaora, port of 
 Shepherds migratory 
 Salympria, or Peneus 
 
 valley of - 
 
 Silk of Thessaly 
 Salonica, history and description of 
 
 commerce 
 
 climate - 
 
 mosques - 
 
 antiquities 
 
 population " 
 Sarakino, isle of - 
 
 Skopelos, isle of - 
 
 Skiathos, isle of - 
 
 Suli, river of, the Acheron of the Ancients 
 Suli mountains, and Seraglio 
 
 Vol. 
 
 Page 
 
 - i. 
 
 136 
 
 - i. 
 
 298 
 
 - i. 
 
 314 
 
 333. 337 
 
 340 
 
 i. 
 
 353 
 
 - ii. 
 
 5 
 
 - ii. 
 
 15 
 
 - ii. 
 
 40 
 
 ii. 73. 
 
 101 
 
 - ii. 
 
 85 
 
 - ii. 
 
 110 
 
 ii. 147. 
 
 151 
 
 - ii. 
 
 177 
 
 - ii. 
 
 182 
 
 ii. 231. 
 
 236 
 
 - ii. 
 
 242 
 
 - ii. 
 
 257 
 
 - ii. 
 
 285 
 
 - ii. 
 
 305 
 
 - i. 
 
 67 
 
 - i. 
 
 101 
 
 - i. 
 
 175 
 
 - ii. 
 
 242 
 
 - ii. 
 
 309 
 
 - i. 
 
 112 
 
 - i. 
 
 132 
 
 i. 367. 
 
 ii. 14 
 
 i. 330. 
 
 358 
 
 - i. 
 
 354 
 
 - ii. 
 
 43 
 
 - ii. 
 
 65 
 
 - ii. 
 
 70 
 
 - ii. 
 
 48 
 
 - ii. 
 
 50 
 
 - ii. 
 
 52 
 
 - ii. 
 
 82 
 
 - ii. 
 
 88 
 
 - ii. 
 
 91 
 
 - ii. 
 
 232 
 
 - ii. 
 
 243
 
 386 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Suliotes, war with Ali Pasha 
 
 Soulias, town of 
 
 Sosino, monastery of 
 
 Sali Bey, one of Ali Pasha's sons 
 
 Selenitza pitch mines 
 
 Vol. Page 
 
 - ii. 237 
 
 - ii. 255 
 
 - ii. 279 
 
 - ii. 292 
 
 - ii. 340 
 
 Tartars (guides) dress of - - 
 
 i. 292. ii. 34 
 
 manners of 
 
 - i. 
 
 361 
 
 Travelling in Turkey described - 
 
 i. 294 note. 
 
 Thessaly, silk of 
 
 - i. 
 
 354 
 
 plains of 
 
 i. 367. 
 
 404 
 
 population of 
 
 - i. 
 
 405 
 
 Trikala, city of - 
 
 - i. 
 
 355 
 
 plains of - 
 
 - i. 
 
 359 
 
 manufactures - 
 
 - i. 
 
 360 
 
 Tornavo, town of, its manufactures 
 
 - i. 
 
 383 
 
 Turks, general character - - i. 
 
 387. ii. 
 
 115 
 
 Turkish inhabitants of Larissa 
 
 - i. 
 
 388 
 
 Turkey red, Greek mode of dyeing 
 
 - ii. 9 
 
 note. 
 
 Tempe, vale of, its remarkable character 
 
 - ii. 
 
 13 
 
 described - - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 14 
 
 supposed formation 
 
 - ii. 
 
 *§ 
 
 Trikeri, town of - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 92 
 
 Thomoko, town of - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 111 
 
 Tzatalze, or Pharsala 
 
 - ii. 
 
 114 
 
 Thermopylae, pass of - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 134 
 
 battle of - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 138 
 
 hot springs - - 
 
 ii. 135. 
 
 141 
 
 Thebes - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 168 
 
 Thespia, ruins at - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 172 
 
 Greek inscription at - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 173 
 
 Tripolitza, city of - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 206 
 
 Theatre and temple, ruins of, near Olitzka 
 
 - ii. 
 
 264 
 
 Theatre, ruins of, near Libochovo 
 
 - ii. 
 
 289 
 
 Tepeleni, town of - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 307 
 
 Seraglio - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 309 
 
 Tzcrovina, lake of - 
 
 - ii. 
 
 281
 
 INDEX. 
 
 387 
 
 VoL Page 
 
 Vathi, town of, in Ithaca - - - i. 76 
 
 Valonia oak - - - i. 61. 127. 305 
 Veli Pasha, one of Ali Pasha's sons, interviews with, 
 
 i. 372. 401. ii. 122 
 
 character and history 
 Velara the physician, character of 
 Volo, town and gulph of 
 Viosa, river 
 
 plains at the mouth of 
 
 - i. 375 
 
 - i. 396 
 
 - ii. 96 
 ii. 305. 317 
 
 - ii. 325 
 
 Yusuf Aga 
 
 - ii. 308 
 
 Zante, isle of - 
 
 town of - 
 
 earthquakes at 
 
 commerce 
 Zantiotes, character of 
 
 religion 
 Zagora, district of 
 Zarko, village of 
 Zeitun, passage up the gulph of 
 
 town of 
 Zitza, village of 
 
 i. 
 
 17 
 
 i. 
 
 21 
 
 i. 
 
 28 
 
 i. 
 
 29 
 
 i. 
 
 32 
 
 i. 
 
 34 
 
 i. 
 
 303 
 
 i. 
 
 365 
 
 ii. 
 
 99 
 
 ii. 
 
 106 
 
 ii. 
 
 277 
 
 FINIS. 
 
 Printed by Strahan and Spottiswoode, 
 Printers-Street, London.
 
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