y

 
 THE SOUTH ISLES OF ARAN
 
 THE SOUTH ISLES OF ARAN 
 
 (COUNTY GALWAY) 
 
 BY 
 
 OLIVER J. BURKE, A.B., T.C.I). 
 
 Jnigbt of Ibt Crbrr of St. Crtgorn Ibt 6rtat 
 
 BARRISTER-A T-LA W 
 AUTHOR OF "THE HISTORY OF ROSS ABBEY," "HISTORY or THE LORD (.HAMFI i 
 
 OF IRELAND," " HISTORY OF THE ARCHBISHOPS OF TVAM," "ANECDOTES OV 
 THE tONNAl'GHT CIRCUIT " 
 
 " Signs and tokens round ns thicken, 
 Hearts throb high and pulses quicken " 
 
 LONDON 
 
 KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO., I, PATERNOSTER SQUARE 
 
 1887
 
 (The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved.) 
 
 THE
 
 TO 
 
 THE HON. MR. JUSTICE O'HAGAN, 
 
 ONE OF THE JUSTICES OF THE SUPREME COURT IX 
 IRELAND. 
 
 MY DEAR JUDGE O'HAGAN, 
 
 During the vacation of last autumn I applied 
 myself to collecting as much information as possible con- 
 cerning the South Isles of Aran, which I had visited in 
 connection with the Land Commission in the previous 
 month of July. Pressure of business and a severe illness 
 compelled me to defer until recently the arranging of my 
 notes, which, in the hope that they may direct the atten- 
 tion of those in power to the long neglected Islands, I 
 have resolved to publish, and I look on it as a good omen 
 of the success of my efforts that you have kindly allowed 
 me to dedicate my work to you, who have won so high a 
 place in law and in literature. 
 
 Believe me to remain 
 
 Sincerely yours, 
 
 OLIVER J. BURKK. 
 
 OWE*, HEADFOKD, 
 Co. GALWAY, 
 
 Augmt 8, 1887. 
 
 2061111
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 i 
 
 Island of Aran Galway bay, anciently Lough Lurgan 
 Population Religion, etc. Inishmore, ruins on Inish- 
 maan, ruins on Inisheer, ruins on Mail boat Hotel 
 Aran landscape Flora Potatoes Aran wildfowl 
 Capture of the puffin Cragsmen Geology of islands 
 Limestone terraces Boulders Cliffs on islands Sea- 
 weeds Moving sands Pintts maritinia 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Monuments of Druidism Druids Cairns Cromlechs 
 Baal, worship of Zodiacal rings Sacred fires Druidi- 
 cal religion Sir Edward Coke, on Groves Immense 
 fortresses Dun j^Engus Its situation, dimensions, etc. 
 Dun Conor Christian remains St. Enda, romantic 
 story of His hapless love Becomes a monk Obtains 
 grant of Aran from King of Cashel St. Brendon His 
 leaving Aran for countries beyond the Atlantic Ren- 
 dered into verse by Denis Florence MacCarthy St. 
 Columba, his grief at leaving Aran Rendered into
 
 viii CONTENTS. 
 
 FAfiK 
 
 verse by Sir Aubrey De Vere St. Fursa Residence in 
 Aran Pilgrimage to Rome Buried in Aran Aran 
 monuments, pagan and Christian, vested in Board of 
 Works Churches facing the east The north 
 Cloghauns Dwellings of the monks Teampul- 
 Chiarain Teampul McDuach Holy well Childless 
 marriages Description of churches Lonely lives of 
 the monks One of the Popes said to be buried in 
 Aran Ordnance Survey Its vast stores of learning 
 unprinted ~ ... ... 13 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Aran, I4th-i8th centuries A.D. 1308. O'Brien, lord of t the 
 isles In consideration of twelve tuns of wine annually 
 engages to protect the trade of Gal way A.D. 1334. 
 Aran plundered by Darcy A.D. 1400. Henry IV. gives 
 license to certain persons to attack rebels in Aran A.D. 
 1485. Franciscan monastery built A.D. 1537. Sup- 
 pression of religious houses A.D. 1560. Shipwreck of 
 Teige O'Brien, lord of the isles A.D. 1570. Mortgage 
 of the islands A.D. 1579. Mayor of Gal way appointed 
 admiral of Galway bay, including Aran 1 586. O'Brien 
 expulsed from Aran by the O'Flaherties 1587. Queen 
 Elizabeth grants islands to Sir John Rawson 1588. 
 Corporation of Galway petition in favour of O'Briens 
 Annals, 1618, 1641, 1645, 1651 Surrender of the islands 
 to the Commander-in-Chief of the Parliamentary forces 
 Annals, 1653, 1670, 1687, 1691, 1700, 1746, case of 
 Mayor of Gal-way v. Digby 1754, 1786. Earldom of 
 Aran 1857 31
 
 CONTENTS. IX 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Noble character of Aranite peasantry Letters, 1841, by 
 Dr. Petrie ; 1852, by Sir Francis Head, K.C.B. ; 1875, 
 by Frank Thorpe Porter, Esq., B.L. ; 1886, by Mr. R. 
 F. Mullery, clerk of Galway Union ; by Philip Lyster, 
 Esq., R.M., B.L. Rev. Fathers O'Donohoe, P.P., and 
 Waters, C.C. Sta viator Isle of O'Brazil Gerald 
 Griffin's poem on ... 52 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 1 lealthful islands Old age in Land Commission in Aran 
 Aran fisheries Letters, 1886, from Sir Thomas F. 
 Brady, fishery commissioner, on ; from C. T. Redington, 
 J.P., D.L., on public works in islands; from Rev. 
 William Killride, on employment and on timber 
 " Many places in the islands covered with trees " fifty 
 years ago Poverty of fishermen Baltimore fisheries 
 Baroness Burdett-Coutts Irish Reproductive Loan 
 Fund Bounties given by Irish Parliament, in 1787, to 
 encourage deep sea fisheries Trawling 65 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Re-afforesting Aran Dr. Lyons Dermot O'Conor Done- 
 Ian, J. P. Forest industries in Germany Supports 
 300,000 families Paper from young timber, etc. ... 82
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Superstitions of the grove Concerning the oak The ash 
 The mountain ash The aspen The pine The 
 holly The ivy The hawthorn The blackthorn The 
 rose The fern The fairy flax The hazel 88 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 Conversant with the O'Briens Bryan Boroimhe His 
 descendants Kings of Thomond and their descend- 
 ants Lords of Inchiquin, junior branch of Kings of 
 Thomond Marshal MacMahon Also junior branch, 
 O'Briens of Ballynalackeri 105 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 Statistics of Aran ... .. no
 
 THE SOUTH ISLES OF ARAN. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 " Oh, Aranraore! loved Aranmore, 
 
 How oft I dream of thee, 
 And of those days when by thy shore 
 
 I wandered young and free ; 
 Full many a path I've tried since than, 
 
 Through pleasure's flowery maze, 
 But ne'er could find the bliss again 
 I felt in those sweet days." 
 
 THOMAS MOORE. 
 
 THE south isles of Aran, which shelter the Galway 
 bay from the heavy swell of the Atlantic, are Inishmore. 
 the large island, nine miles in length ; Inishmaan, the 
 middle island, two and a half miles in length ; Inisheer. 
 the lesser, two miles in length ; Straw Island, upon 
 which the lighthouse stands, and the Brannock Rocks 
 or islands, all forming that group which to the west 
 bounds the Galway bay, and the ancient jurisdiction 
 of the Admiral of Galway. They lie in a line drawn 
 from the north-west to the south-east from lar Con- 
 naught to the county of Clare. lar Connaught is 
 
 B
 
 2 POPE GREGORY THE GREAT. 
 
 separated from Inishmore, the largest and most 
 westerly island, by the North Sound, five and a half 
 miles wide, called by the natives Bealagh-a- Lurgan^ 
 " Lough Lurgan way." Lough Lurgan was the 
 ancient name of a lake that formerly lay west of 
 Galway, and the tradition is that in the old times 
 before us 213 years from the Flood the waters of 
 the Atlantic, sweeping in the full fury of their force 
 across the Aran barriers, united with the waters of 
 the lake and formed the Bay of Galway, leaving the 
 islands of Aran the towering remnants of the barriers 
 which were too strong even for the Atlantic billows to 
 carry away. Between Inishmore and Inishmaan is 
 Gregory's Sound, a mile and a half wide, called by 
 the natives Bealagh-ne-Hayte, " Hayte's way." The 
 present name was given to it by the monks, who 
 called the sound " Gregory," in honour of Pope 
 Gregory the Great, after he had converted or aided 
 in converting the Anglo-Saxons to the Christian faith. 
 Between the middle island, Inishmaan, and Inisheer, 
 the eastern and smallest island, is the "foul sound," four 
 miles wide ; and between Inisheer and the county of 
 Clare is the "south sound," four miles wide. This 
 is the great waterway between " the old sea," as the 
 natives call the Atlantic, and the Bay of Galway. 
 
 The sum of the lengths of the three islands and of 
 the two intervening sounds is eighteen miles. The 
 area of the entire group is 11,288 acres; poor law
 
 MANOR OF IAR CONNAUGHT. 3 
 
 valuation, ^1576 ; rent, ,2067 ; poor rate, a shilling 
 in the pound ; average poor rate for ten years, 
 three shillings; population, 3118 Catholics, and 45 
 Protestants. Aran is in the Catholic archdiocese and 
 in the Protestant diocese of Tuam. In the islands 
 are three Catholic churches and one Protestant, two 
 priests, one parson, and one doctor, and there are 
 schools, schoolmasters, schoolmistresses, and scholars, 
 tt hoc genus omne ; and there is a petty sessions court, 
 and there are three police-barracks and eighteen 
 policemen. The fishing-boats or curraghs of the third 
 class, which are ribs covered with canvas, and worth 
 6 each, are 130 in number; of the second class 
 there are 34 boats, and of the first class there are 
 none. There are no paupers from the islands in the 
 workhouse, which is in Galway, and there is no work- 
 house on the island ; neither is there an auxiliary 
 workhouse, nor an hospital, nor an infirmary, nor a 
 midwife, nor a jail, nor grand jury works, though 
 there is a grand jury cess 0^34 i2s. 2d. 
 
 Of Inishmore, or the great island, Kilronan is the 
 capital a village with a good hotel. Killeany was 
 the ancient capital, formerly the residence of the lords 
 of the manor of lar Connaught. The other places 
 of note are Oghil, Onaght, Bungowla, Kilmurry, Dun 
 . Kngus, Dun Eochla, Dubh Chathair or the black fort. 
 So also on that island are the ruins of the churches of 
 Tempul Benin with its rectangular enclosures and group
 
 4 THE ARAN MAIL-BOAT. 
 
 of cells, of Tempul Brecan and Cross, of Tempul Beg 
 Mac Dara, of Tempul More Mac Dara, of Tempul 
 Assurniadhe, of Tempul-an-cheathrair-Aluin, and of 
 St. Enda and the ruins of the seven churches. 
 
 On the middle island of Inishmaan are the ruins of 
 the fortresses of Dun Chona and Dunfarbagh, and the 
 villages, five in number. On the eastern island of 
 Inisheer are St. Gobnet's chapel, Ballyhees, Largi, 
 Furmina, Trawkera, near which there is a lake a 
 quarter of a mile in circumference and of great depth, 
 which might be converted into a useful harbour by 
 cutting an entrance into it through the rocky shore. 
 
 The harbour of Kilronan is spacious, but not fitted 
 for vessels of heavy tonnage. A pier of four or five 
 hundred yards is built out into the sea, alongside of 
 which was moored during the tempestuous days of 
 the last week of July (1886) her Majesty's mail-boat 
 a large-sized sailing yacht, provided with a cabin and 
 forecastle, and manned by a remarkably civil and 
 obliging crew. But it is to be lamented that no steamer 
 has as yet been placed on the line between Galway 
 and Aran, in consequence of which, frequently for four 
 or five days, communication with the mainland becomes 
 impossible. Letters remained unanswered, and news- 
 papers remained unread ; so that nation might rise 
 against nation, and kingdom against kingdom, but the 
 islanders in happy repose, undisturbed by the postman 
 or by the magnetic wire, would in their isles of peace
 
 THE BLACK-EYED HEBE. 5 
 
 have happily lived on in blissful ignorance of the pain- 
 ful turmoils that reigned around. 
 
 At the hotel the tourist will be served with a homely 
 and wholesome fare prime veal and sweet and 
 tender mutton, for the Aran herbage is renowned 
 for the tenderness of the meat that it produces. At 
 dinner a bottle of the mountain-dew, with a smell 
 as divine as it is illegal, may be by accident produced ; 
 and for all this, when the guest requests that he might 
 be informed of the charges, the reply ten to one will 
 be, "Oh, anything your honour likes to give!" at 
 least, such was said by the black-eyed Hebe who 
 ministered to the wants of the writer of these pages. 
 
 The Aran landscape as your vessel approaches from 
 Galway is a peculiar one peculiar to Aran. From 
 the soft sea beach on the Galway side of the island, 
 which varies in breadth from one to four miles across, 
 slope fields of bare rocks terrace over terrace, some- 
 times nine in number, until they reach the topmost 
 cliff on the south-west or ocean side hundreds of feet 
 over the Atlantic. This terraced landscape has the 
 appearance of being a barren and rocky wilderness ; 
 but on closer inspection threads of fresh green herbages 
 can be traced in the cleavages and deeply cut fissures 
 of the rocks, and it is in those cleavages that the 
 richest profusion of botanical specimens are to be 
 found. The cleft upon which we stood was teeming 
 with purple heather, foxglove, scarlet geranium, and
 
 6 THE FLORA OF ARAN. 
 
 wild thyme, with the golden leaf of the variegated 
 ivy ; the crimson berries of the orchis and the red 
 fruit of the wild strawberry forming a rich contrast to 
 the delicate blue of the forget-me-not. Here, too, 
 were the harebell and speedwell, fringed with the 
 delicate frond of the maidenhair fern. In other 
 clefts was the richness of the white and red clover, 
 intermingled with a variety of medicinal herbs, amongst 
 which were the wild garlic and the kenneen or fairy 
 flax, much relied on for its medicinal qualities. In 
 several of the localities in the islands the tormentil 
 root, which serves in place of bark for tanning, and 
 another plant which gives a fine blue dye and which 
 the islanders use in colouring woollen cloths manu- 
 factured by them for their own wear, are to be found. 
 The Aran isles contain many rare plants ; but, owing 
 to the absence of turf bogs and scarcity of damp 
 ground, there are neither marshy nor heathy plants, 
 nor sedges, nor rushes. Even so, the flora of Aran is 
 decidedly rich. On the hillsides are a great variety 
 of flowering plants indigenous to the soil, which 
 blossom at different times of the year. In the rocky 
 dells there are several kinds of convolvulus of very 
 rich florescence. The Madagascar periwinkle seems 
 to be perfectly acclimatized and blossoms profusely, 
 and we were happy to find an abundant growth of 
 hops, the introduction of which is ascribed to the 
 monks of the olden time.
 
 ORNITHOLOGY OF ARAN. 7 
 
 The tillage of the islands comprises potatoes, 
 mangold wurzel, vetches, rape, clover, oats, and barley. 
 The potatoes almost exclusively planted are " the 
 Protestants ; " and a Protestant tourist unarmed felt 
 somewhat alarmed at the startling intelligence that 
 " dinner would be ready as soon as the Protestants 
 that were on the gridiron would be roasted." The 
 dinner brought up, need it be told that our Anglican 
 friend enjoyed the joke of our witty waitress quite as 
 much as we ourselves did ? 
 
 The crops are greatly devastated by caterpillars and 
 grubs. The abundance of these pernicious insects is 
 attributed to the great scarcity of sparrows and other 
 small birds. Starlings are seldom seen ; but never a 
 swallow. Sea gulls are numerous, and amongst the 
 sea birds the osprey or sea eagle is a conspicuous 
 object. Neither the raven, rook, crow, nor jackdaw 
 visits the islands ; but there is a handsome bird which 
 is very numerous, especially in the north island. The 
 chough, which, in addition to plumage dark and 
 glossy like that of the jackdaw, displays a beak and 
 legs of bright scarlet It is said that this bird was 
 formerly to be seen in flocks on various parts of the 
 English coasts, and that now it cannot be found in 
 any part of the United Kingdom except in Aran. 
 Plovers, gannets, pigeons, duck, teal, and divers breed 
 abundantly on the rocky ledges. The cliffs are the 
 resort of countless puffins (Anas I^iuopsis) ; the
 
 TANKS WANTING IN ARAN. 
 
 popular belief being that they spring from the drift- 
 wood* Their flesh supplies a rich lamp oil, and 
 their feathers fetch a high price in the London 
 markets. The capture ef these birds is a dangerous 
 occupation for the cragsmen, who descend from 
 the cliffs by means of a rope to the haunts of the 
 puffin, and having spent the night in the dangerous 
 occupation, ensnaring and killing them as they 
 sleep on the rocky ledges, they are hauled up in 
 the morning, having realized ten or twelve shillings 
 during the night. In the summer of 1816, two un- 
 fortunate fellows engaged in this frightful occupation 
 missed their footing, and falling, were dashed to pieces 
 on the rocks below. The solitary bittern, called in 
 Irish the Boonaun-Laynagh, frequents the low-lying 
 ground on the Galway side of the island, and hares 
 and rabbits are very plentiful also. On the barren 
 sheets of rocks the peasants (denominated lazy and 
 idle, by lazy and idle writers and speakers) have with 
 tireless toil walled in and made numberless gardens 
 in which potatoes mealy and dry are grown. The 
 meteorological aspirations of the Aran peasant are 
 for rain, diametrically the opposite of what their 
 brethren on the mainland desire. A dry summer 
 gives to Aran a parched and burnt-up hue, when the 
 cattle faint and die if not removed to the mainland. 
 Tanks, such as they have in Ceylon, are sadly wanting 
 * Denis Florence McCarthy's Poems, p. 87 note.
 
 ICE-CUT FURROWS. 9 
 
 in those islands, and the expense of their construction 
 must be a trifling matter indeed. 
 
 One of the most remarkable features in the con- 
 formation of Inishmore is, that between the over- 
 lapping strata or terraces of limestone, thirty-seven 
 feet in thickness in some places and eighteen in others, 
 are beds of shale. The highest of the terraces is 
 320 feet over high-water mark, on the perpendicular 
 cliff overlooking the Atlantic. On the sixth lowest 
 of these descending steps the village of Kilronan, the 
 capital of the island, over against the Galway bay, is 
 built, and under that terrace and over the seventh is 
 a shale bed which contains the water supply for the 
 glebe and upper village wells. 
 
 Those who delight in geological speculations will 
 find in these isles much to interest them. Here are 
 deep furrows in the hard rocks, cut as they say by 
 passing icebergs. One of these ice-cut furrows may be 
 seen near the shore of Killeany Bay, about two hun- 
 dred yards north-east of Lough Atalia, and a quarter 
 of a mile from Kilronan. It is about seven yards long, 
 nearly a yard wide, having a bearing of east by north. 
 Though the icebergs have left their striae, and though 
 their passage is marked by the deep furrows cut by 
 them as they moved, nevertheless the patches of boulder 
 drift on the surface are few ; but the bergs in their 
 passage from the north district did drop some huge 
 metamorphic rocks, not one of which is indigenous, so
 
 10 BOULDERS. 
 
 to speak, to the islands, but have been carried from a 
 district such as that of Oughterard. Strange that some 
 limestone boulders have also been dropped, carried 
 from some far-off limestone district. These boulders 
 have withstood the wreck of ages, but the weather- 
 beaten rocks under them are so worn as here 
 and there to present the appearance of pedestals 
 bearing up the superincumbent masses. Whilst there 
 is much to arrest the attention as you look from the 
 hotel windows towards Galway over the Galway bay, 
 bounded on the north by the grotesque desolation of 
 the Connemara mountains, and on the south by the 
 rocky mountains of the county of Clare, it is on the 
 south-west side of the islands of Aran that the scene 
 is awfully sublime, terrific, and impressive rendered 
 more awful by reason of the confusion of the waters 
 and of the roaring of the waves of the sea. The heavy 
 swell of the Atlantic there rolls in angry billows 
 against the cliffs dark and perpendicular, hundreds of 
 feet in height cliffs perforated by winding caverns 
 worn by the violence of the waves, from one of which, 
 having an aperture in the surface, was projected a 
 column of water to the height of a ship's mast. Whilst 
 many of these cliffs rise perpendicularly from the 
 ocean, many of them have sea terraces or steps at foot 
 below the high-water mark. At Jllaun-a-naur, on 
 the south-easterly side of the great island, are sea- 
 terraced cliffs which are fendered by a rampart formed
 
 SEA WEEDS. II 
 
 of enormous blocks of limestone upheaved from the 
 depths of the ocean and hurled with violence on the 
 rampart which now forms a foot barrier against 
 the further encroachment of the Atlantic. 
 
 The sea-weeds around the Aran islands are peculiarly 
 fitted for the production and manufacture of kelp, of 
 which there are two varieties, one made from the 
 black weed, and the other from the red. The black 
 usually grows above the low-water mark of the neap- 
 tide, whilst all the red grows below it. The red 
 weed kelp is the most valuable, as in general it gives 
 salts containing iodine. Marine plants, such as the 
 sea-anemones, the rock-grown samphire, and the sea- 
 cabbage grow around the islands in great profusion. 
 
 Another remarkable feature in Aran is the enormous 
 amount of fine quartzose moving sands which, blown 
 in thick clouds by the winds, fill the nooks and corners 
 and crevices of the islands. These sands, which are 
 said to possess the property of preserving bodies 
 uncorrupted after death, might be fixed and utilized 
 in the same manner as the sands of Arcachon on the 
 west coast of France have been fixed and utilized, 
 by planting therein vast forests of the Pinus maritima, 
 the interlacery of whose roots would do the twofold 
 duty of fixing the sands and creating a soil enriched 
 by the amount of nitrogen therein digested and de- 
 posited. At Trawmore, on the south of Killeany Bay, 
 proofs have lately been discovered not only of the
 
 12 MOVING SANDS IN ARAN. 
 
 movement of the sand-hills, but also of the appearance 
 of fields and buildings submerged on the sea-coast. 
 
 These islands in prehistoric times must have suffered 
 much from the convulsions which then shook the 
 world in later times they appear to have suffered 
 little, though Richard Kirwan the chemist relates that 
 in his memory, in the year 1774, a fearful thunder- 
 storm visited Inishmore, when a granite block of 
 enormous dimensions, called the "Gregory," was 
 struck by lightning, shattered to atoms, and flung into 
 the sea.
 
 THE DRUIDS. 13 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 " Remnants of things that have passed away, 
 Fragments of stone reared by creatures of clay." 
 
 Siege of Corinth. 
 
 THE " remnants of things that have passed away " are 
 many on these islands. In no other part of the 
 United Kingdom are there confined in spaces so 
 narrow so many monuments of Pagan times ; here are 
 evidences of two great ages of civilization that of the 
 Druids and that of the Christians ; but, whether of the 
 Druids or of the Christians, Aran had been the retreat 
 in early times of the contemplative and the learned. 
 Sequestered and undisturbed, the natives have even to 
 this day preserved much of the moral and physical 
 remains of the ancient world. The Aranites in their 
 simplicity consider the remains of the Druids as in- 
 violable, being as they fondly imagine the enchanted 
 haunts and property of aerial beings, whose power of 
 doing mischief they greatly dread and studiously pro- 
 pitiate. The natives believe that the "cairns" or 
 circular mounds are the sepulchres of the mighty mer.
 
 14 DRUIDISM. 
 
 of old, men of renown, whose acts and deeds even 
 now are celebrated in songs sung at the cottage fire- 
 sides by minstrels to the strings of the wandering 
 harper : on every lip are the exploits of Churcullen, 
 of Gol, son of Morna, of Oscar, and of Ossian, 
 and here are pointed out the places where they lived 
 and died. We have also the immense " cromlechs " 
 or altar flags, supported on perpendicular pillars, as we 
 may venture to call the unhammered stones of about 
 three feet in height, whilst under those " cromlechs " 
 still rest the remains of heroes whose faithful dogs 
 interred with them bear them company even in death. 
 Here, too, no bad memory is retained of the sacred 
 fires of Bal (another name for the sun), which were 
 kept burning ; for the sun, and the moon, and the 
 stars were by them reverenced ; but the sun of the 
 Druids was supposed to be the most noble type 
 of the Godhead the most glorious object of the 
 material creation. The mysterious stones, twelve in 
 number, encircling the altars of sacrifice, sometimes 
 said to be zodiacal rings, after the twelve signs of the 
 zodiac, are here frequently to be found. The purifying 
 ordeals the cattle were subject to at Aran until a very 
 late period are yet there remembered. The sacred 
 fires on the first day of each of the quarters blazed 
 from cairn to cairn, amid prayers for the fruits of the 
 earth, and even yet, on St. John's Eve in June, huge 
 bonfires are lighted near every village through the
 
 SIR EDWARD COKE ON DRUIDISM. 15 
 
 island, for the holy flame was considered essential to 
 the cattle as a preservative from contagious disorders. 
 The Druids kindled after their manner two immense 
 fires, with great incantations, close to each other, whilst 
 between those fires the cattle were driven, and if they 
 escaped unharmed it was considered as auspicious 
 as it would be inauspicious for man and beast to be 
 therein harmed, and hence the saying, "Placed between 
 the two fires of Baal." Concerning the mysteries of 
 their religion, the Druids did not commit them to 
 writing, and therefore it is that so little is known of 
 their teachings or of what they taught, and what they 
 did teach is said by some to have been taught in 
 the Greek language, " to the end," writes Sir Edward 
 Coke, " that their discipline might not be made so 
 common amongst the vulgar, nay more, their very 
 names and appellations may serve as a proof of their 
 use of the Greek tongue, they being called Druids 
 from Aprs, an oak, because, saith Pliny, they frequent 
 the woods where oaks are, and in all their sacrifices 
 they use the leaves of those trees." * 
 
 With Druidism departed the forests of the ilex and 
 the quercus from Aran. May we venture to hope 
 that, in the coming changes, Aran may once more be 
 re-afforested, and that the islanders, who have now no 
 coal, no timber, and no turf to burn, may have at least 
 timber to burn in great abundance in the near future ? 
 * II. Coke's Reports, part iii. Preface, p. viii.
 
 1 6 FORTRESSES OF ARAN. 
 
 The immense fortresses on the islands are said to be 
 the finest specimens of barbaric military structures 
 extant in Europe. Built by the pagan Firbolgs in the 
 first century of the Christian era, these mortarless 
 walls, Cyclopean as they are called, having braved the 
 tempests of nineteen hundred years, still stand. On 
 the large island, and within four miles of our hotel, 
 is Dun ^Engus, which, covering many acres, is on a 
 precipice hundreds of feet in height. This fortress, 
 in the form of a horse-shoe, is unapproachable on the 
 sea side, where the Atlantic surges heavily against the 
 solid rock, whose surfaces are seamed, and scarred, 
 and torn by the violence of the billows driven against 
 them by the winter tempests. Unapproachable by an 
 enemy from the sea, it is equally unapproachable by 
 an enemy from the land, the only entrance thereto 
 being by a narrow avenue skirting the edge of the 
 cliff. The fortress consists of three enclosures, the 
 inner, the middle, and the outer. The inner 
 measures 160 feet, on what may be called the axis 
 major from north to south of the horse-shoe on the 
 ground plan, whilst along the cliff it measures 144 
 feet The mortarless wall which surrounds this inmost 
 enclosure is about noo feet from end to end, by 
 1 8 feet in height, and 12 feet in thickness. Now 
 this one wall is made up of three walls, each four feet 
 thick, one against the other, like the coats of an 
 onion, which arrangement occurs in the middle and
 
 DUN ^NGUS. 17 
 
 outside enclosures, and which has this advantage, 
 that if an enemy should succeed in breaking down the 
 exterior envelope, he would find behind it a new face 
 of masonry, instead of the easily disturbed loose 
 interior of a dry stone wall. The space between this 
 inner and the next outside, or middle enclosure, is 
 perfectly clear, leaving ample scope for military 
 manoeuvres. The outside wall, which is almost an 
 ellipse, encloses about eleven acres, all studded over 
 with an army of white pointed stones, set slope-wise 
 into the earth, like almonds on a plum-pudding, 
 save where a narrow avenue is left, so that no 
 assailing force could possibly approach the second 
 wall, without having its ranks broken by those intricate 
 piles which answer the chevaux-de-frise of modern 
 fortifications. The doorway with sloping jambs of 
 Egyptian pattern through the outer wall admits only 
 one or two assailants together. 
 
 Dun Conor, an oval fort on the middle island, is 
 much larger than Dun ^)ngus, of which we have just 
 been speaking, the axis major of Dun Conor 
 measuring 227 feet. It also stands on a high cliff, 
 and its dry and mortarless walls are built also on the 
 coat of the onion principle. 
 
 Inisheer, the eastern island, contains a circular Dun 
 called Creggan-keel. Furmena Castle, also on this 
 island, was, in later times, the stronghold of the 
 O'Briens lords of the islands of Aran and upon 
 
 c
 
 1 8 ST. ENDA. 
 
 these islands are many more fortresses. There is, 
 on the north side of Inishmore, Dun Onaght, a 
 circular Firbolgic fort, measuring 92 feet across ; and 
 on the south-west side, Dubh Cahn, " the black fort," 
 a Dun or fortress of very rude masonry, of enormous 
 thickness, and overlooking the cliffs. 
 
 The Christian remains of the islands are many, and 
 
 many are the names of the saints still remembered 
 
 who congregated here in the early days of Irish 
 
 Christianity. Amongst those remarkable heroes of 
 
 the Cross, none appears to have been greater than 
 
 St. Enda, who has left his name everywhere in the 
 
 islands. To him, indeed, is due much of the success 
 
 that followed the footsteps of those missionaries who 
 
 won, in the course of centuries, for Aran the appellation 
 
 of " Aran of the Saints." Enda was the only son of 
 
 Conel, King of Oriel, whose territories included the 
 
 modern counties of Louth, Armagh, and Fermanagh. 
 
 This Enda had, however, several sisters, the elder 
 
 being the wife of the King of Cashel, whose death 
 
 is chronicled in the annals of the Four Masters as 
 
 of the year 489 ; the younger was Fancha, the abbess 
 
 of an abbey, or nunnery, wherein were educated 
 
 ladies of the court, amongst whom was one remarkable 
 
 for her great mental and personal attractions. Enda 
 
 loved her, and hoped that she would one day share 
 
 with him the glories, such as they were, of the throne 
 
 of his fathers. His love for his affianced bride amounted
 
 ST. ENDA. 19 
 
 to an idolatry, but his idolatry must end, and his idol 
 must die an early death. The abbess brought him 
 weeping into the chamber where the corpse of his 
 loved one was laid Fancha then reminded him of 
 how favour is deceitful and how beauty is vain, and 
 how the day, dim and remote, would still come when 
 he would be as his affianced bride now was. " Love 
 not the world, nor the things that are in the world ! " 
 exclaimed the abbess with a vehemence that her 
 earnestness inspired. That world was then abjured, 
 and straightway he entered a religious order, that of 
 the Regular Canons of St. Augustine, and after years 
 of study and probation, was ordained priest in Rome. 
 He thence returned to the kingdom of Oriel in 
 Ireland, where he built several churches. Having 
 visited his sister and her husband the King of Cashel, 
 the latter was, after much hesitation, persuaded to 
 confer upon God and upon Enda the islands of Aran. 
 Possession of a place so retired and so suited to study 
 and contemplation being thus obtained, Enda intro- 
 duced there a multitude of holy men, monks to live 
 like the Essenes of old, a contemplative life. He 
 divided the islands into ten parts, and built ten 
 monasteries, each under the rule of its proper superior ; 
 whilst he chose a place for his own residence on the 
 eastern coast of the western island of Inishmore, and 
 there erected a monastery, the name and site of which 
 are preserved even to this day in the little village of
 
 20 ST. BRENDAN. 
 
 Killeany (Kil-Enda), about a mile from Kilronan. 
 Half the island was assigned to this monastery, and 
 multitudes from afar flocked to Aran, which became 
 the home of the learned and the pious. Amongst 
 the remarkable men that there clustered, were St. 
 Kieran, founder of Clonmacnoise, who died in 549, 
 and St. Brendan. The history of the latter abounds 
 with fable, but it is admitted that a thousand years 
 before Christopher Columbus, he crossed the Atlantic 
 and landed on the coast of Florida, where there is 
 a strip of country which, according to Humboldt, in 
 his Cosmos, bore the name of Irland it Milka, 
 "Ireland of the white man." The visit of St. 
 Brendan to Aran, previous to his departure to the 
 great western continent, has been described by one 
 of the most musical of our poets Denis Florence 
 MacCarthy as follows : 
 
 " Hearing how blessed Enda lived apart, 
 
 Amid the sacred caves of Aran-mor, 
 And how beneath his eye, spread like a chart, 
 
 Lay all the isles of that remotest shore ; 
 And how he had collected in his mind 
 
 All that was known to the man of the " old sea," * 
 I left the hill of miracles behind, 
 
 And sailed from out the shallow sandy Leigh. 
 
 "Again I sailed and crossed the stormy sound, 
 That lies beneath Binn-Aite's rocky height, 
 And there upon the shore, the saint I found 
 Waiting my coming through the tardy night. 
 
 * The " Old Sea," the ancient name of the Atlantic in Irish.
 
 ST. FINNIAN. 21 
 
 He led me to his home beside the wave, 
 
 Where with his monks the pious father dwelled, 
 
 And to my listening ear he freely gave 
 The sacred knowledge that his bosom held. 
 
 "When I proclaimed the project that I nursed, 
 
 How it was for this that I his blessing sought, 
 An irrepressible cry of joy outburst 
 
 From his pure lips, that blessed me for the thought. 
 He said that he, too, had in visions strayed, 
 
 O'er the untrack'd ocean's billowing foam ; 
 Bid me have hope, that God would give me aid, 
 
 And bring me safe back to my native home. 
 
 " Thus having sought for knowledge and for strength, 
 
 For the unheard-of voyage that I planned, 
 I left those myriad isles, and turned at length 
 
 Southward my barque, and sought my native land. 
 There I made all things ready day by day ; 
 
 The wicker boat with ox -skins covered o'er, 
 Chose the good monks, companions of my way, 
 
 And waited for the wind to leave the shore. " 
 
 Another of St Enda's disciples was St Finnian of 
 Moville and it was from Aran he set out on his 
 pilgrimage to Rome. Soon after he returned to 
 Ireland, bringing with him a copy of the Gospels, the 
 Papal benediction, and the Canons of St. Finnian. 
 Again departing for Italy, he was made Bishop of 
 Lucca, in Italy, where he died in 588. St. Columba 
 spent years in Aran, and deeply was he grieved at 
 leaving it for lona. His bitter lament in Irish verse 
 has been translated into English metre by the late Sir 
 Aubrey De Vere, Bart., in part as follows :
 
 22 ST. COLUMBA. 
 
 I. 
 
 " Farewell to Aran isle, farewell ! 
 
 I steer for Hy ; my heart is sore, 
 The breakers burst, the billows swell, 
 'Twixt Aran's isle and Alba's shore. 
 
 2. 
 " Thus spake the son of God, ' Depart ! ' 
 
 Oh Aran isle, God's will be done ! 
 By angels thronged this hour thou art : 
 I sit within my barque alone. 
 
 3- 
 " Oh Modan, well for thee the while ! 
 
 Fair falls thy lot and well art thou, 
 Thy seat is set in Aran isle, 
 
 Eastward to Alba turns my prow. 
 
 4- 
 " Oh Aran, sun of all the west ! 
 
 My heart is thine ! as sweet to close 
 Our dying eyes in thee as rest 
 
 Where Peter and where Paul repose. 
 
 5- 
 " Oh Aran, sun of all the west, 
 
 My heart its grave hath found ; 
 He walks in regions of the blest, 
 The man that hears thy church bells sound. 
 
 6. 
 
 " Oh Aran blest oh Aran blest ! 
 
 Accursed the man that loves not thee ; 
 The dead man cradled in thy breast 
 No demon scares him well is he. " * 
 
 * Sir Aubrey De Vere, " Irish Odes," p. 274.
 
 ST. FURSA. 23 
 
 Amongst the other ecclesiastical notabilities that 
 frequented Aran in the sixth century was St Fursa, 
 whose life has been written by scores of writers, as 
 well by the Venerable Bede as by Archbishop Usher, 
 the greatest ornament of the Protestant Church in 
 Ireland. The visions of Fursa were, we are informed 
 by the Rev. J. Carey, in his admirable translation of 
 Dante, the groundwork of the Inferno. The beautiful 
 imagery of Fursa's fancy, which threw a charm over 
 every subject that he handled, may be well illustrated 
 by his rhapsodies on seeing for the first time the city 
 of Rome, as staff in hand he wended his way to the 
 Eternal City. Falling on his knees, with outstretched 
 arms, he exclaimed, " Rome ! oh, Rome ! I hail thee, 
 admirable by apostolic triumphs. Rome, decorated 
 by the roses of the martyrs, whitened by the lilies of 
 the confessors, crowned by the palms of the virgins, 
 thou that containest the bones and relics of the saints, 
 may thy authority never fade ! " * Strange, is it not, that 
 the first sight of the city of Rome should produce in 
 the minds of men feelings which words almost fail to 
 convey ! It was eleven hundred years after Fursa's first 
 salutation to the city of Rome that Edward Gibbon, 
 when musing amid the ruins of the Capitol whilst 
 the barefooted friars were singing vespers in the 
 temple of Jupiter, formed the idea of writing " The 
 Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire," and what his 
 * Colgani, Acta SS. Hibemiae.
 
 24 GIBBON. 
 
 feelings were on seeing for the first time the holy city 
 he thus in that immortal work informs us : " My 
 temper is not very susceptible of enthusiasm, and the 
 enthusiasm which I do not feel I have ever scorned 
 to affect, but at the distance of twenty-five years, I 
 can neither forget nor express the strong emotions 
 which agitated my mind as I first approached and 
 entered the Eternal City. After a sleepless night I 
 trod with a lofty step the ruins of the Forum." St 
 Fursa, returning on foot through France, died at 
 Peronne, and his body was conveyed to the island of 
 Aran, where amongst his quondam brethren he now, 
 awaiting the resurrection of the just, reposes. 
 
 Of the monuments, as well pre-Christian as Christian, 
 in these islands, there are twenty-one, vested in the 
 secretary of the Commissioners of Public Works in 
 Ireland, to be preserved as national monuments, 
 (See next page.) 
 
 Ruins everywhere meet the eye of the tourist in 
 Aran ruined abbeys, ruined monasteries, ruined nun- 
 neries, ruined cells, ruined churches, ruined schools, 
 ruined forts, ruined forests, and ruined towers. With 
 one exception the churches of Aran face the east. I 
 heard somewhere, when on the islands, that that is 
 not exactly true, but that they faced the point of the 
 compass at which the sun rose on the day that the 
 foundation stone was laid. Be that as it may, there 
 is the Oratory of St. Banon, which directly faces the
 
 RUINS. 
 
 COUNTY OF GALWAY. 
 
 BARONY OF ARAN. 
 
 Parish. 
 
 Monuments. 
 
 Inisheer, 
 or 
 Lesser Island 
 
 Inisheer 
 
 Inishmnnn, 
 
 or 
 Middle Island 
 
 Inishmore, 
 
 or 
 Great Island 
 
 Carrowntemple 
 Carrownlisheen 
 
 Onaght 
 Killeaney 
 
 Great Fort, with stone-roofed 
 
 Cells, and O'Brien's Castle. 
 Fort with Mound and Monu- 
 
 ment. 
 Ruins of Church Kill-Gobnet, 
 
 etc. 
 Ruins of Church Burial-place 
 
 of Seven Daughters, whose 
 
 names are unknown. 
 Ruins of Church Tempiil 
 
 Coemhan. 
 
 Fort Mothar Dun. 
 Fort of Conor. 
 
 RuinsofChurch Kill Canonagh 
 Ruins of Church Tempiil Cai- 
 reach Derquin. 
 
 Fort Dun 
 
 Fort Dun Eochla. 
 
 Dubh Chathair or the Black Fort. 
 
 Ruins of Church Tempiil Be- 
 
 nin, with rectangular enclosure 
 
 and group of Cells. 
 Ruins of Church Tempvil Bre- 
 
 can and Cross. 
 Ruins of Church Tempiil beg 
 
 mac Dara. 
 Ruins of Church Tempvil more 
 
 mac Dara. 
 Ruins of Church Tempul As- 
 
 surniadhe. 
 Ruins of Church Tempul Ciara 
 
 Monastir. 
 Ruins of Church Tempul a 
 
 Phoill (the seven churches). 
 Ruins of Church Tempul an 
 
 Cheathrair Aluin. 
 RuinsofChurch Teglach Enda 
 
 (St. Enda's Church).
 
 26 CLOGHAUNS. 
 
 north. It is fifteen feet long, by seventeen feet high 
 to the summit of the gables, by eleven feet in breadth. 
 Close by are the remains of the hermitage, partly sunk 
 in the rock, and of some cloghauns, or stone-roofed 
 dwellings. How those solitaries, who for centuries 
 held up the lamp of learning which shone across 
 Europe during the long night which followed the 
 breaking up of the Roman empire, could live in such 
 comfortless cells, it is impossible to apprehend : 
 circular chambers about twenty feet in exterior 
 diameter, with a hole in the stone beehive roof for a 
 chimney, and with an Egyptian-like doorway that a 
 tall man could with difficulty enter. Teampull-Chia- 
 rain has a beautiful eastern window, with some 
 crosses. Four miles from Kilronan are Kilmurvey 
 and Teampul McDuach, a sixth-century church, con- 
 sisting of nave and choir in beautiful preservation. 
 There are windows there of remote antiquity, with 
 lintels formed of two leaning stones; and there is 
 a semicircular window of great beauty of a more 
 recent date. There is a stone leaning against the 
 eastern gable with a rudely cut opening which seems 
 to have been the head of the more ancient window. 
 The narrow doorway is like the entrance to an 
 Egyptian tomb. Another small church, Teampul-beg, 
 together with a holy well and monastic enclosure, is 
 worthy of inspection. At the north-western side of 
 the Inishmore island, and six miles from Kilronan,
 
 CHILDLESS MARRIAGES. 2/ 
 
 are the remains of the seven churches, one of which 
 is called Tedmpul Brecain the church of St. Braccan, 
 who was the founder of the monastery of Ardbraccan, 
 now the cathedral church of the diocese of Meath. 
 The ruined church of Teampul-saght-Machree is an 
 object of interest on the middle island. The eastern 
 island in ancient times was called Aran-Coemhan in 
 honour of St. Coemhan (St Kevin), brother of St. 
 Kevin of Glendalough. He was one of the most 
 renowned of the saints of Aran, and is believed to 
 have not unfrequently abated storms after being 
 piously invoked. There is a legend in the islands 
 worthy of remembrance by those whose marriages are 
 as yet unblest with children. We speak of that of 
 St. Braccan's bed, where many a fair devotee has 
 prayed and has had her prayers granted, as Anna of 
 old had in the temple of Silo,* when the Lord bestowed 
 on her childless marriage a child who was afterwards 
 the prophet Samuel 
 
 The churches are all of small dimensions never 
 more than sixty feet in length at the eastern end of 
 which is not unfrequently a chancel in which the altar 
 was placed. Between the nave of the church and the 
 chancel was the chancel arch of a semicircular form, 
 a very beautiful specimen of which exists in the 
 Protestant cathedral of Tuam. These temples, very 
 imperfectly lighted by small windows splaying inwards, 
 * I Sam. i. 9-17.
 
 28 ARAN CHURCHES. 
 
 do not appear to have ever been glazed. The chancel 
 had usually two or three windows one of which is 
 always in the centre of the east end, with another in 
 the south wall, another in the south wall of the nave, 
 sometimes, though rarely, two in number. The 
 windows are frequently triangular-headed, but more 
 usually arched semicircularly, whilst the doorway is 
 almost universally covered by a horizontal lintel 
 consisting of a single stone. In all cases the sides 
 of the doorways incline like the doorways in the 
 old Cyclopean buildings, to which they bear a 
 striking resemblance. The smaller churches were 
 usually roofed with stone, whilst the larger ones were 
 roofed with wood covered with thatch. The wells are 
 carefully preserved, the scarcity of water rendering the 
 possession of a well almost as precious to them as to 
 the Eastern shepherds in the days of Rebecca. 
 
 The Aran churches, it must be admitted, have little 
 in them to interest the mind or captivate the senses ; 
 nevertheless, in their symmetrical simplicity, their 
 dimly lighted naves, in the total absence of every- 
 thing that could distract attention, there is an expres- 
 sion of fitness for their purpose too often wanting 
 in modern temples of the highest pretensions. The 
 monastic establishments close by contained little that 
 would savour of luxury. The cells of the friars were 
 low, narrow huts, built of the roughest materials, 
 which formed, by the regular distribution of the
 
 LIVES OF THE MONKS. 29 
 
 streets, a large and populous village, enclosing with- 
 in a common wall a church and hospital, perhaps 
 a library. The austere inmates slept on the ground, 
 on a hard mat or a rough blanket, and the same 
 bundle of palm leaves, served them as a seat by day 
 and a pillow by night. The brethren were supported 
 by their manual labour, and the duty of labour was 
 strenuously recommended as a penance, as an exercise, 
 and as the most laudable means of securing their daily 
 subsistence. " Laborarc est orarc" was a monastic 
 maxim. The garden and the fields which the in- 
 dustry of the monks had rescued from the forest or 
 the morass were cultivated by their ceaseless toil. 
 In the evening they assembled for vocal or mental 
 prayer, and they were awakened by a rustic horn, 
 or by the convent bell in the night, for the public 
 worship of the monastery. Even sleep, the last 
 refuge of the unhappy, was rigorously measured ; and 
 it was to lives of self-denial like this that great 
 multitudes in the first century of the Christian era 
 betook themselves. Pliny, who lived when Christ was 
 crucified, surveyed with astonishment the monks of 
 the first century, " a solitary people," he says, " who 
 dwelt amongst the palm trees near the Dead Sea, who 
 increased, and who subsisted without money, who 
 fled from the pleasures of life, and who derived from 
 the disgust and repentance of mankind a perpetual 
 supply of voluntary associates." * 
 
 * Pliny, Hist. Nat., v. 15.
 
 3O ORDNANCE SURVEY. 
 
 On Inisheer island is a signal tower, and near it 
 is an old castle on an eminence. Here is shown the 
 " bed of St. Coemhan," much famed for its miraculous 
 cures. On the south-west point is a lighthouse 
 showing a light one hundred and ten feet in height. 
 It is stated in the Leabhar-braec that one of the Popes 
 was interred in the great island of Aran. The same 
 is repeated in one of the volumes of the Ordnance 
 Survey, a work which, never printed, is stowed away 
 on the shelves of the Royal Irish Academy, liable 
 at any moment to be destroyed by a conflagration. 
 In the three or four volumes on the county of Galway 
 are contained, and in the English language, the 
 inquisitions of Elizabeth, the subsequent patents of 
 James I., and much learning touching tithes, fisheries, 
 abbeys, abbey lands, priories, and monasteries, as 
 well as letters on these subjects between Petrie and 
 O'Donovan and other antiquarians employed on that 
 survey.
 
 ANNALS OF ARAN. 31 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 ISLES OF ARAN, I4TH-l8TH CENTURIES. 
 
 " Long thy fair check was pale, 
 Erin Aroon 
 Too well it spake thy tale, 
 
 Erin Aroon 
 
 Fondly nursed hopes betrayed, 
 Gallant sons lowly laid, 
 All anguish there portrayed, 
 Erin Aroon." 
 
 Sliabh Cuilinn. 
 
 A.D. 1308. The trade of Galway, which at the time 
 of the Anglo-Norman invasion in the twelfth century 
 was at zero, rapidly rose to a comparatively high 
 figure in the fourteenth century. In 1300 the customs 
 receipts were 24 15*. 2d. at that port, and in 1392, 
 ;n 8 5-r. io</. This augured well for the progressive 
 improvement of the town ; but that improvement was 
 blasted for a season by the appearance in the bay of 
 a fleet of pirates who swept the ships from the seas 
 The merchants applied to their powerful neighbour,* 
 * O'Hart's " Landed Gentry," p. 124, edit. 1884.
 
 32 REVOLT OF ARAN. 
 
 Dermot More O'Brien, lord of the isles of Aran, to 
 succour them in their straits ; and for that succour and 
 the prptection which he agreed to give them they 
 agreed to pay him yearly twelve tuns of wine ; the 
 trade, commerce, and harbour of the town to be 
 protected, and otherwise by him and his successors 
 defended, from all and every attack of pirates and 
 privateers whatsoever, to which intent and purpose, 
 and for the considerations aforesaid, he covenanted 
 and agreed to maintain a suitable maritime force. 
 This Dermot More O'Brien was descended from 
 Brian [Boru] Boroimhe, slain at the battle of Clontarf 
 in 1014. 
 
 A.D. 1334. In this year the islands were plundered 
 by Sir John Darcy, who sailed with fifty-six ships 
 around the Irish coasts. 
 
 A.D. 1400. The rebellion of the Mayo and Clan- 
 rickarde Burkes in the province of Connaught, con- 
 sequent on the murder, in 1333, of William De Burgh, 
 Earl of Ulster and fifth Lord of Connaught, caused 
 the overthrow for nearly two hundred years, of the 
 English power in that province. The town of Galway, 
 oscillating in its allegiance between the Crown and 
 the Clanricardes, joined that powerful family against 
 Henry IV., and in their revolt they were joined by the 
 South Isles of Aran. Thereupon the King did by 
 royal license permit certain persons to attack the 
 rebels in the said island, which license is as follows :
 
 ROYAL LICENSE. 33 
 
 "THE KING to all and singular our admirals 
 mayors and others in our kingdom of England and 
 lordship of Ireland greeting At the supplication of 
 John Roderic William Pound Edward White and 
 Philip Taylor all of Bristol and of Nicholas Kent 
 burgess of Galway in Ireland In as much as our 
 aforesaid liege subjects have given to us security that 
 they shall not nor will presume to make war or afford 
 cause for making war against any of our faithful Irish 
 subjects or attempt anything against the form of the 
 truces entered into between us Wherefore KNOW YE 
 that we have granted and given license and do hereby 
 grant and give licence to them the said John Roderic 
 William Pound Edward White Philip Taylor and 
 Nicholas Kent that they with as many men at arms 
 as they choose to have and provide at their own 
 expenses may take their course for and pass over to 
 our said lordship of Ireland in four ships called by 
 the divers names of ' The Christopher ' ' the Trusty ' 
 ' the Nicholas ' and ' the May of Bristol ' and there 
 make war against the rebels and enemies of us in the 
 said town of Galway and also in the islands of Arran 
 which lie full of gallies to ensnare capture and plunder 
 our liege English and further KNOW YE ALL MEN that 
 if said John and William and Edward and Philip and 
 Nicholas shall be able by force and armed power to 
 obtain and take the town and islands aforesaid they 
 may have hold and inhabit the same town and islands 
 
 D
 
 34 THE REFORMATION. 
 
 taking to their own use and profit all and singular the 
 property of the aforesaid rebels and enemies of us 
 and all that which they shall be able so to obtain 
 and take The right nevertheless and other the rents 
 revenues services and other moneys whatsumever to 
 our royal prerogative there pertaining always saved 
 unto us saving also the right of the son and heir 
 of Roger de Mortimer late Earl of March deceased 
 being within age and within our wardship- and the 
 rights of all other liege subjects whomsoever given 
 at our Palace at Westminster on the 22nd day of 
 May in the first year of our reign AD 1400 ' By the 
 King himself'"* The town however returning to. 
 its allegiance, the above license was in the same year 
 revoked. 
 
 A.D. 1485. A monastery was built in this year on 
 the great island for the Franciscans of the strict 
 observance ; but this community was doomed to be 
 short lived, for the word had gone forth from Henry 
 VIII. to suppress the monasteries and they were 
 suppressed ; and the annalists thus, in the Annals of 
 the Four Masters, A.D. 1537, chronicle not alone 
 their overthrow, but the spread of a new religion in 
 England, " A new heresy and error arose in England 
 through pride, vain-glory, avarice, sensuality, and 
 many strange speculations, so that the people of 
 England went into opposition to the Pope and to 
 
 * Pat. Rolls, I Hen. IV. 7. m.
 
 A STORM. 35 
 
 Rome. They have demolished the abbeys, sold their 
 roofs and bells, and there is not one single monastery 
 from Aran of the Saints to the ' Straits of Dover' '* 
 that has not been completely destroyed" 
 
 A.D. 1560. A tragic occurrence occurred in this 
 year when Teige O'Brien, lord of the isles, was 
 returning, loaded with booty if not with honours, to 
 Aran, from a plundering expedition which he had 
 made into Munster; from one of the seaports of 
 which province he had the rashness with his home- 
 ward bound barque to put to sea when a tempest was 
 said by his sailors to be impending. Deceived by 
 the " calm before the storm " he insisted on weighing 
 anchor. It was weighed, and as the starless night was 
 closing and deepening around him, the gale freshened 
 as he advanced his tempest-tossed vessel struggled 
 amidst the waves, for the wind was high against it 
 and when the morning rolled the clouds away, a 
 broken spar, an oarless boat, were all that remained 
 to tell the ghastly tale, that every hand on board was 
 lost. At the entrance of the Great Man's Bay, which 
 was far out of their course, is even now shown the 
 spot where on that fatal night they perished. 
 
 A.D. 1570. Morchowe O'Brien, in consideration of 
 a sum of money to him in hand paid, conveyed these 
 
 * " The Straits of Dover " does not occur in the Annals, but 
 the word which does so 'occur is construed by the commentator 
 to be those "straits."
 
 36 THE O'BRIENS. 
 
 islands by way of mortgage to James Lynch Fitz 
 Ambrose and his heirs. 
 
 A.D. 1575. In June of this year it was agreed 
 between the mortgagor and mortgagee of the islands 
 " that in case the sept of clan Tiege O'Brien, the said 
 mortgagor, should decease and perish, then that James 
 Lynch Fitz Ambrose, the mortgagee, should be their 
 sole heir, and possess, Aran, and all other their lands, 
 and that said O'Brien should not alienate or mortgage 
 any part or parcel of Aran to any person without the 
 mortgagee's consent and license." It appears, however, 
 thatTieg Eturgh, Morchowe Morowe, Conchor McMur- 
 chowe, Terrilagh Meeagh, Tieg McTerrilagh, Dermot 
 McMurchowe, Tieg McTerrilagh Oge, and Conchor 
 McMoriertagh, McBrene, gentlemen, all of Aran, and 
 Dermot McCormick McConnor, of the Castle of 
 Trowmore, afterwards on July 14, 1575, appointed 
 Captain Morchowe McTerrilagh O'Brien their attorney 
 for ransoming the isles of Aran from James Lynch, 
 that all such parts as he should so ransom should 
 belong to him (O'Brien) and his heirs for ever.* 
 
 It would appear that this Captain Morchowe 
 McTerrilagh O'Brien, of the Clantiege of Aran, on July 
 14 of the same year, 1575, was in Gal way ; and being 
 there, was minded to claim the privilege his ancestors 
 had, he alleged, enjoyed of lodgings and meals for two 
 days and two nights in the town, and the " mayor 
 * Hardiman, " History of Gal way," p. 208 note.
 
 THE CLANRICARDES. 37 
 
 calling before him auncient old credibel witnesses, 
 they declared upon their oaths that they never 
 heard of their parents or saw the said sept have 
 no more than two meals in the town, and it was 
 thereupon ordered that said sept shall have no more 
 than two meals, they being always bound to serve 
 attend and wait upon us and in our service as 
 their ancestors had been, and further that it was 
 the O'Brien sept that was bound to give lodging 
 and entertainment to all the commons of Galway, 
 when they shall repair to the islands of Aran. And 
 the said mayor did grant and promise O'Brien to be 
 aiders, helpers, maintainers and assisters, of him 
 against all persons that would lay siege to spoil the 
 islands or castle of Aran or otherwise wrong the said 
 Morchowe or his sept." * 
 
 A.D. 1579. Queen Elizabeth, by her charter to the 
 town of Galway, having recited that Richard III., late 
 King of England, out of his abundant grace and for 
 the greater security and safeguard of the town of 
 Galway, willed and ordained that neither MacWilliam 
 Burke, Lord of Clanricarde, nor his heirs, should have 
 any rule or power in the said town of Galway, therein 
 to act, exact, receive, ordain, or dispose of anything 
 without the special license, and by the assent and 
 superintendence of the mayor, bailiffs, and common- 
 alty of the said town of Galway; appointed the 
 * Hardiman's History of Galway, p. 207.
 
 38 THE FEROCIOUS O'FLAHERTIES. 
 
 mayor of Galway to be admiral of her and her 
 successors within the town aforesaid and within and 
 over the islands of Aran and from the said islands to 
 Galway. 
 
 A.D. 1580. There died in this year in the islands of 
 Aran an islander who had reached the extreme old 
 age of two hundred and twenty years. This patriarchal 
 inhabitant killed a bullock in his own house every year 
 for one hundred and eighty years. 
 
 A.D. 1586. In this year the O'Briens, long the 
 lords of the islands of Aran, "wereexpulsed from their 
 territory by ye ferocious O'Flaherties of larConnaught." 
 The matter was brought under the knowledge of the 
 Crown, who resolved to put an end to the lawless 
 savagery which existed in those parts, whereby one 
 sept could, in times of peace, sail on a plundering 
 expedition against another and expel them, wasting 
 the country with fire and sword all the time ; and 
 accordingly a commission, under the great seal, was 
 issued for the purpose of examining the title, if any, 
 of the O'Flaherties to the islands. Having gone 
 through the mockery of an inquisition, the commis- 
 sioners found that the islands belonged not to the 
 O'Briens, lords of the isles, nor yet to the O'Fla- 
 herties, who had no title at all, but that they be- 
 longed to her Majesty Queen Elizabeth in right of 
 her crown and dignity ; and accordingly she, by her 
 letters patent dated January i5th, A.D. 1587, instead
 
 CLAN OF MAC TIEGE O'BRIEN. 39 
 
 of restoring them to the ancient proprietors, granted 
 them entire to Sir John Rawson, of Athlone, gentle- 
 man, and his heirs, on condition that he should retain 
 constantly on the islands twenty foot-soldiers of the 
 English nation.* 
 
 A.D. 1588. When the return of the inquisition 
 and subsequent patent granting the lands away from 
 the O'Briens became known, the corporation of 
 Galway thus petitioned the Queen, in favour of 
 Murrough McTurlogh O'Brien : " That the Mac 
 Tieges of Aran, his ancestors, were under her Majesty 
 and her predecessors the temporal captains or lords 
 of the islands of Aran, and held their territories 
 and hereditaments elsewhere under the name of Mac 
 Tiege O'Brien of Aran, time out of man's memory, 
 and that they the said corporation, had seen the said 
 Murrogh McTurlogh authorized by all his sept, as 
 chief of that name, and in possession of the premises 
 as his own lawful inheritance, as more at large doth 
 appear in our books of record, wherein he continued 
 until of late he was, by the usurping power of the 
 O'Flaherties expelled ; and we say, moreover, that 
 the sept of the Mac Tiege O'Briens of Aran, since the 
 foundation of this city, were aiding and assisting our- 
 selves and our predecessors against the enemies of 
 your majesty and your predecessors in all times and 
 places, whereunto they were called as true and faithful 
 I'at. Rolls, 31 Eliz.
 
 40 AN INDUSTRIOUS DISCOVERER. 
 
 and liege people to the crown of England, to maintain, 
 succour, and assist the town. 
 
 " (Signed), " JOHN BLAKE, Mayor of Galway, 
 "WALTER MARTIN, Bailiff, 
 "ANTHONY KIRWAN, Bailiff." 
 
 Queen Elizabeth heard the appeal, but her Majesty 
 was inexorable. It is more than probable that the 
 O'Briens had caused, at least remotely, the alienation 
 of their inheritance by their own domestic feuds. At 
 the north extremity of Inishmore, the large island, not 
 far from Port Murvey, the islanders show a field where 
 human bones are frequently dug up, and for which 
 reason it is called Farran-na-Cann, "the field of the 
 sculls." Here the O'Briens are said at some remote 
 period to have slaughtered each other almost to 
 extermination. This sort of self-destruction is the 
 blackest blot on the page of Irish history. It has 
 always been, and alas ! is Ireland's sad and unalienable 
 inheritance. Of the patentee, John Rawson, little is 
 remembered, save that in an instrument enrolled in 
 the Rolls Office, in 1594, he is called "an industrious 
 discoverer of lands for the Queen." The O' Flaherties 
 had now the gratification of seeing the O'Briens, also 
 an Irish sept, turned out of their inheritance, and the 
 same granted to a stranger. After this period the 
 property and inheritance of the islands became and
 
 LYNCHES. 41 
 
 were vested in Sir Roebuck Lynch, of Galway. How 
 Sir Roebuck became proprietor of the islands we 
 have been unable, with certainty, to learn ; but we 
 might hazard a plausible guess that Sir John Rawson 
 was granted whatever estate O'Brien had forfeited, 
 and that what O'Brien did forfeit as mortgagor was 
 the equity of redemption in the islands ; that conse- 
 quently Lynch, the mortgagee, remained in posses- 
 sion of the legal estate, and he, on Rawson failing 
 to perform the convenants in mortgage deed con- 
 tained, foreclosed the mortgage, and thus probably the 
 fee and the equity of redemption became united in 
 one and the same person, Sir Roebuck Lynch. 
 
 A.D. 1618. "Indenture of June 2oth, between Henry 
 Lynch, son and heir of Roebuck Lynch, of Galway, 
 deceased, of the one part, and William Anderson, of 
 Aran, in said county, of the other, whereby he, the 
 said Henry Lynch, for and in consideration of a sum 
 of j$o of English currency to him paid, did thereby 
 demise and assign all that and those, a moiety of the 
 said three islands to him, the said William Anderson, 
 his executors, administrators, and assigns, for a long 
 term of years, excepting thereout" what must have 
 then been in the islands, "great trees, mines, and 
 minerals, and hawks, at an annual rent of ^3 Irish, 
 and a proportion of port corn, as therein is set forth." 
 A.D. 1641. The clan Tiege O'Briens still claimed 
 the islands as their legitimate inheritance, and, taking
 
 42 ARCHBISHOP O'QUEELY. 
 
 advantage of the troubles of this troubled year, pre- 
 pared to attack them with a considerable force, and 
 with the aid of a gentleman of extensive property 
 and influence in the county of Clare, Boetius Clancy 
 the younger. This project, however, was frustrated 
 by the opposition of the Marquis of Clanricarde, then 
 governor of the county of Gal way.* 
 
 A.D. 1645. The death of Malachy O'Queely, 
 Catholic archbishop of Tuam, occurred in this year. 
 To him John Colgan was indebted for a description 
 of the three islands of Aran and their churches. 
 
 A.D. 1651. When the royal authority was fast 
 declining, the Marquis of Clanricarde resolved to 
 fortify these islands, wherein he placed 200 musketeers 
 with officers and a gunner, under the command of 
 Sir Robert Lynch, owner of the islands. The fort of 
 Ardkyn, in the large island, was soon after repaired 
 and furnished with cannon, and by this means held 
 out against the Parliamentary forces near a year after 
 the surrender of Galway. In December, 1650, the Irish, 
 routed in every other quarter, landed here 700 men. 
 On the Qth of the following January, 1300 foot, with 
 a battering piece, were shipped from the Bay of Galway 
 to attack them, and 600 men were marched to lar 
 Connaught, to be thence sent, if necessary, to the assist- 
 ance of the assailants. On the i5th the islands surrend- 
 ered on the following terms : 
 
 * Clanricarde Memoirs, p. 71.
 
 SURRENDER OF ARAN. 43 
 
 "Articles concluded between Major James Harrisson 
 and Captain William Draper, on behalf of the Commis- 
 sary-General Reynolds, Commander-in-Chief of the 
 Parliamentary forces in the isles of Aran, and Captain 
 John Blackwall and Captain Brien Kelly, commis- 
 sioners appointed by Colonel Oliver Synnot, com- 
 mander of the Fort of Ardkyn, for the surrender of 
 the said Fort 
 
 "(i) It is concluded and agreed that all the officers 
 and soldiers both belonging to sea and land shall have 
 quarters, as also all others the clergyman and other 
 persons within the Fort. (2) That they shall have six 
 weeks for their transportation into Spain or any other 
 place in amity with the State of England, and that 
 hostages shall be given by Colonel Synnot for the 
 punctual performance of these Articles. (3) That 
 Colonel Synnot shall deliver up, with all necessaries 
 of war, by three o'clock this ifth of January, 1652, 
 before which time all officers and soldiers belonging 
 to the said Fort shall march with drums beating to the 
 Church near Ardkyn and there lay down their arms. 
 (4) That Colonel Synnot and the captains, eight in 
 number, shall have liberty to carry their swords, the 
 other officers and soldiers to lay down their arms ; 
 that Commissary Reynolds shall nominate four officers 
 of the Fort hostages. (5) That Colonel Synnot, with 
 the rest of the officers and all other persons in the 
 Fort shall, upon delivering their arms and delivering
 
 44 ERASMUS SMITH. 
 
 their hostages, be protected from the violence of the 
 soldiery, and with the first conveniency be sent to 
 the county Galway, there to remain for six weeks in 
 quarters, in which time they are to be transported 
 as aforesaid, provided that no person whatsoever 
 belonging to the Fort of Ardkyn found guilty of 
 murder be included in these articles, or have any 
 benefit thereby." 
 
 The Parliamentary forces, on taking possession of 
 the fortifications, found several large pieces of cannon, 
 with a considerable quantity of arms and ammunition ; 
 they seized also a French shallop with twenty-eight 
 oars and several large boats. The Fort was soon 
 after repaired and strongly reinforced. The late pro- 
 prietor of the islands, Sir Robert Lynch, was declared 
 a forfeiting traitor, and his right made over to Erasmus 
 Smith, Esq., a London adventurer whose interest was 
 afterwards purchased by Richard Butler, created Earl 
 of Aran in 1662. 
 
 A.D. 1653. The castle of Ardkyn was by order of 
 the Lord Protector pulled down, and a strong fort 
 erected in its place. Thenceforth Aran became the 
 place of transportation for the Catholic clergy, whilst 
 on the mainland the most violent acts of oppression 
 and injustice openly took place. The King's arms and 
 every other emblem of royalty were torn down, and 
 fifty priests were shipped for Aran * until they could 
 * Froude's English in Ireland, vol. i. f p. 134.
 
 QUIT RENT. 45 
 
 be transported to the West Indies, they being allowed 
 sixpence a day each for their support 
 
 A.D. 1670. On the Qth of September, Charles II., 
 by patent under the Act of Settlement, granted to 
 Richard, Earl of Aran, the great island, containing 2376 
 acres statute measure, all situate in the half barony 
 of Aran, county of Galway, at the annual rent of 
 iSs. 5\d. crown rent, payable to the King and his 
 successors. We may observe that the " crown rent " 
 payable to the Crown for lands is the same rent as 
 that which was formerly paid to the abbot or prior 
 of the abbeys and priories confiscated from them 
 under the statute of Henry VIII. consequently 
 lands held under the religious houses pay crown 
 rent even to this day. Quit rent (Quietus Kedditus) 
 in the province of Connaught, merely three half- 
 pence an acre, was for the first time imposed at 
 the Restoration, and amounts in the islands of Aran 
 to 14 Ss. 4*i. 
 
 A.D. 1687. A grant was made in this year by James 
 II. of three- fourths of the tithes of Aran islands to the 
 Most Reverend John Vesey, D.D., Protestant Lord 
 Archbishop of Tuam, and his successors in the See. 
 One could readily account for his Majesty's bestowing 
 the tithes in question on the Catholic archbishop, 
 but why he bestowed them on the Protestant line 
 appears unaccountable; yet so it is stated in the 
 appendix to the report of the Royal Commission
 
 46 THE FLORA OF ARAN. 
 
 (1868) on the revenues and condition of the Estab- 
 lished Church, page 191. 
 
 A.D. 1691. On the surrender of Galway to the 
 arms of William and Mary, a garrison was sent to 
 Aran, and a barrack therein built in which soldiers 
 were for many years stationed. 
 
 A.D. 1700. An excursion was made to the islands 
 in this year by one whose name is well known by 
 those who prefer to contemplate the silent life of 
 vegetation to the saddening spectacle of man at vari- 
 ance with his fellow-man. Edward Lnwyd spent many 
 months inspecting the flora of the islands, and having 
 done so, made his report upon them, which is said to 
 be a marvel in its way. 
 
 The fee of the islands had become vested in 
 Edmund Fitzpatrick of Galway, Esquire ; and he in 
 1717 demised the whole island of Inisheer to Andrew 
 French of Galway, merchant, for thirty-one years, at 
 the yearly rent of ^100, with liberty to cut and carry 
 away as much straw from Straw Island as should be 
 deemed necessary to thatch the houses on the island 
 of Inisheer. 
 
 A.D. 1746. The case of The Mayor of Galway v. 
 Digby, conversant as it was with the royalties of the 
 islands of Aran, caused great excitement in the town 
 during the summer assizes of the year. The action was 
 tried before Mr. Justice Caufield. Mr. Staunton, Mr. 
 French, and another, appeared as counsel for the
 
 ROYAL FRANCHISE. 47 
 
 plaintiff; Mr. John Bodkin and Mr. Morgan for the 
 defendant The case as stated by the learned counsel 
 for the plaintiff was that from times of remote antiquity 
 the O'Briens were lords of the isles of Aran, or to use 
 somewhat of legal phraseology, were lords of the 
 manor of Aran, and as such, and in their manorial 
 rights they were entitled to all the royal franchises, 
 wrecks, and other strays washed on the shores either 
 of the islands or mainlands of the bay. But the Crown 
 had made a grant of the royal franchises away from 
 the lords of the manor, and had conferred the same 
 on the Admiral of the Bay of Galway, the office of 
 Admiral of the Bay belonging to and being held by 
 the mayor of the town. Now, on the ist of August, 
 1 745, a great whale, which appeared in the Aran waters, 
 was stranded, and harpooned by the defendant, who 
 obtained from it no less than fifty gallons of oil The 
 blubber and the whalebone were all there ready to be 
 transported to the Dublin market, and the defendant 
 had actually converted to his own use so much of 
 this royal franchise as would realize a sum of ^160. 
 Plaintiffs patent was full, ample, and large ; so full, so 
 ample, and so large, that he, counsel, could not but 
 wonder that any lawyer at the bar would sign the 
 pleadings in a case in which a verdict must be 
 directed on the spot for the plaintiff. 
 
 Counsel for the defendant did not feel so sure of 
 the success of his learned friend's case as his learned
 
 48 ROYAL FRANCHISE. 
 
 friend did quite the reverse ; he must and at once ask 
 the learned judge for a direction that the verdict be 
 entered for him. He, Mr. Bodkin, admitted that a 
 sturgeon and a whale were royal fish, but they were 
 governed by widely different principles of law. If a 
 sturgeon had been washed on the shore, then the 
 King or his grantee could claim it and grant it to 
 whomsoever they pleased, and the grantee here would 
 not be entitled to it at all ; but the whale is not the 
 King's property to grant. Half of the whale is the 
 perquisite of the Queen consort, and that being so, 
 the grant fails. The King is only entitled to the head 
 and the Queen to the tail. It was in old law laid 
 down to be for the Queen's convenience to have 
 abundance of whalebone for her boudoir, and so it 
 is said in Bracton [1. 3. ch. 3], "of the sturgeon let 
 it be noted that the King shall have it entire, but it 
 is otherwise of the whale, for the King shall have the 
 head and the queen the tail, sturgeone observetur quod 
 rex ilium habebit integrum : de Balena vero suffidt si 
 rex habeat caput et regina caudam." A verdict was 
 directed against the plaintiff, but whether any after 
 move was made in the matter, or whether the Attorney- 
 General intervened, we have been unable to discover. 
 Suffice it to say that the corporation of Galway 
 interfered no more in the matter. 
 
 A.D. 1754. John Digby demised the island of 
 Inisheer to William MacNamara of Doolin, county
 
 ARCHBISHOP PHILLIPS. 49 
 
 Clare, for thirty-one years, at an annual rent of 
 
 j9- 
 
 A.D. 1786. The Catholic archbishop of Tuam, the 
 most Rev. Philip Phillips, D.D., partaking of the hospi- 
 tality of the parish priest of Aran, stopped a week in 
 the islands : sleeping, however, on a bed of rushes, 
 to which he had been unused, he got an attack of 
 bronchitis, of which he shortly after died at Cloonmore, 
 in the county of Mayo. One would have thought that 
 he could have outlived a discomfort of that trivial 
 kind, for he had been in early life a soldier not a 
 feather-bed soldier, but a distinguished officer in the 
 Austrian service, and therefore it was that he was 
 called Captain Phillips to the last hour of his life. 
 It is not unworthy of remark that this prelate had, 
 previous to his translation to Tuam, been Bishop of 
 Killala, to which see he had in 1760 [i Geo. III.] 
 been by James III., King de jure sed non de facto of 
 great Britain and Ireland, nominated as appears by 
 the apostolic letter of Clement XIII., dated Rome, 
 November 24, 1760. 
 
 In the peerage we find that the earldom of Aran 
 has been twice bestowed on families bearing different 
 names. First in 1662, when Richard Butler (son of 
 James, the twelfth Earl and first Duke of Ormonde) 
 was created Earl of Aran. The honours of this 
 nobleman having expired on his death without issue, 
 the earldom was revived in 1693 in favour of Lord 
 

 
 5O EARL BUTLER OF ARAN. 
 
 Charles Butler, brother of James, the second Duke 
 of Ormonde. The story of the second Duke of 
 Ormonde is a sad one. Having filled the highest 
 offices in the state in Ireland under Charles II., 
 he forgot his allegiance to his brother James II., 
 and went over to the ranks of William and Mary. 
 In 1702 he was constituted by Queen Anne Com- 
 mander-in-chief of the Forces of Great Britain, sent 
 against France and Spain, when he destroyed the 
 French fleet and sunk the Spanish galleons in the 
 harbour of Vigo, for which important services he 
 received the thanks of both houses of Parliament In 
 1715 (2 George L), his grace was attainted by 
 the British but not by the Irish House of Parliament 
 of high treason, and ^10,000 set upon his head should 
 he land in Ireland. His grace then retired to Avignon, 
 and died in 1745, a pensioner of the crown of Spain. 
 Upon the duke's death the Earl of Aran became 
 entitled de jure to the dukedom, but was not aware 
 of his rights, which he never claimed, being of opinion 
 that the British Parliament destroyed not only the 
 English but the Irish titles of honour of his deceased 
 brother, the second duke. The Earl of Aran died 
 without issue male, December 17, 1758, when the title 
 became and was extinct. After four years, in 1762, the 
 earldom was bestowed on another noble house, that of 
 Gore, in the person of Sir Arthur Gore, and from him 
 is descended Sir Arthur Charles William Fox Gore,
 
 GORE, EARL OF ARAN. 51 
 
 fifth Earl of Aran, born on the night of storm, January 
 6, 1839. 
 
 A.D. 1857. The islands were visited by the 
 British Association, under the leadership of Sir William 
 Wilde, M.D., and the results of the visit were sub- 
 sequently embodied in an interesting pamphlet by 
 Martin Haverty, Esq., long assistant librarian to the 
 Honourable Society of the King's Inns, Dublin. 
 Subsequently the Earl of Dunraven, accompanied 
 by a number of scientific friends, proceeded to the 
 islands, when a series of magnificent photographs 
 were executed, printed, and published under the 
 supervision and direction of the accomplished editor, 
 Miss Stokes, who has edited that ponderous work 
 which throws so much light on the early history of 
 this country.
 
 52 THE ARAN ISLANDERS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 " Where the tints of the earth and the hues of the sky, 
 In colour though varied, in beauty may vie, 
 And the purple of ocean is deepest in dye. " 
 
 Bride of Abydos. 
 
 WE have thus far spoken of the scenery of the islands, 
 and of their natural history, of their antiquities, Pagan 
 and Christian, and of their annals ; let us now turn to 
 speak of their people and of what others think of them. 
 Doctor Petrie thus, in 1841, writes : 
 
 " I had heard so much of the Aran islanders, of 
 their primitive simplicity, and singular hospitality, 
 that I could not help doubting the truth of a picture 
 so pleasing and romantic, and felt anxious to ascertain 
 by personal observation how far it might be real. 
 Collectively, the inhabitants may be said to exhibit 
 the virtues of the Irish character with as little inter- 
 mixture of vices as the lot of humanity will permit 
 
 " They are a brave and hardy race, industrious and 
 enterprising, as is sufficiently evidenced, not only by 
 the daily increasing number of their fishing vessels, 
 the barren rocks which they are covering with soil
 
 A POLITE PEOPLE. 53 
 
 and making productive, but still more by the frequency 
 of their emigration from their beloved homes and 
 friends to a distant country, led solely by the 
 hope that their indefatigable labour may be em- 
 ployed there to the greater ultimate benefit of their 
 families. 
 
 " They are simple and innocent, but also thought- 
 ful and intelligent, credulous, and, in matters of faith, 
 what persons of a different creed would call super- 
 stitious. Lying and drinking, the vices which Arthur 
 Young considers as appertaining to the Irish character, 
 form at least no part of it in Aran, for happily their 
 common poverty holds out less temptation to the 
 vices of lying and drinking. 
 
 " I do not mean to say they are rigidly temperate, 
 or that instances of excess, followed by the usual Irish 
 consequences of broken heads, do not occasionally 
 occur such could not be expected, when their con- 
 vivial temperament and dangerous and laborious 
 occupations are remembered. They never swear, 
 and they have a high sense of decency and propriety, 
 honour and justice. In appearance they are healthy, 
 comely, and prepossessing; in their dress (with few 
 exceptions) clean and comfortable ; in manner serious 
 yet cheerful, and easily excited to gaiety ; frank and 
 familiar in conversation, and to strangers polite and 
 respectful, but at the same time free from servile 
 adulation. They are communicative, but not too
 
 54 RESIGNATION OF THE ARANITES. 
 
 loquacious ; inquisitive after information, but delicate 
 in seeking it, and grateful for its communication. 
 
 " If the inhabitants of the Aran islands could be 
 considered as a fair specimen of the ancient, and 
 present wild Irish, the veriest savages in the globe, 
 as the learned Pinkerton calls them those whom 
 chance has led to their hospitable shores to admire 
 their simple virtues' would be likely to regret that 
 the blessings of civilization had ever been extended 
 to any portion of this very wretched country." * 
 
 The devotional expressions of the Aranites and the 
 meekness and resignation with which they bear mis- 
 fortunes or afflictions is the most striking feature in 
 their character. "I had a beautiful girl for a daughter," 
 said an Aranite peasant, " and I laid her in her grave 
 yesterday, praise be to His holy Name that took her 
 to Himself." A poor woman asking for charity tells 
 you that " she hasn't eaten a bit this day, thanks be 
 to God." Another says, " In troth I have been suffer- 
 ing for a long time from poverty and sickness, glory 
 be to God." Their mode of salutation, too, is worthy 
 of remembrance. The visitor on entering a house 
 says, " God save all here." Meet a man on the road, 
 greet him with a " God save you, sir ; " instantly he'll 
 remove his hat and reply, " God save you kindly, your 
 honour." If you pass by men working in a field, always 
 address them with a " God bless the work, boys ; " they 
 * Stokes' " Life of Dr. Petrie," pp. 49, 50.
 
 THEIR PURITY OF MORALS. 55 
 
 will answer, " And you too, sir," and if you speak in 
 Irish so much the better, and how their eyes will 
 brighten up at hearing their mother-tongue spoken by 
 " a gentleman's honour ! " 
 
 To the purity of the morals of the Aran women 
 there are many testimonies. Births of illegitimate 
 children are of rare occurrence indeed. Sir Francis 
 Head, in 1852, made a tour through Ireland, looking 
 into every police barrack as he passed, and when all 
 that was done he published a work entitled " A Fort- 
 night in Ireland." Unsparing in his vilifications of the 
 Catholic clergy, he is compelled to compare the 
 people to whom they minister favourably with those 
 of other countries in the world. Arriving in Galway 
 his first visit was to the police barrack, where he 
 inquired of the officer as to the morals of the 
 Claddagh people, when the south isles of Aran thus 
 came to be mentioned. 
 
 " Sir F. Head. How long have you been on duty 
 in Galway ? " 
 
 The officer replies, " Only six months." 
 
 Question. " During that time have you known of 
 many instances of illegitimate children being born 
 in the Claddagh?" 
 
 Answer. "Not a single case not one; and not 
 only have I never known of such a case, but I never 
 heard any person attribute immorality to the fish- 
 women. I was on duty in the three islands of
 
 56 THEIR PURITY OF MORALS. 
 
 Aran, inhabited almost exclusively by fishermen, who 
 also farm potatoes, and I never heard of any one of 
 their women (who are remarkable for their beauty) 
 having had an illegitimate child, nor did I ever hear 
 it attributed to them. Indeed I have been informed 
 by a magistrate who lived in Galway for eight years, 
 and has been on temporary duty in the isles of Aran, 
 that he has never heard there of a case of that nature. 
 These people, however, when required to pay poor- 
 rates, having no native poor of their own in the 
 workhouse, resisted the payment of what they con- 
 sidered a very unjust tax. In fact they closed their 
 doors when the rate was only partially collected." 
 
 Three and twenty years after Sir Francis Head wrote 
 the above we read in the writings of Frank Thorpe 
 Porter, Esq., a member of the Irish Bar, long a divisional 
 magistrate for the city of Dublin, and some time 
 acting chief justice for Gibraltar, a further testimony 
 of the worth of the islanders. On his return from 
 Spain, he visited his son, Mr. Frank Porter, M.D., 
 medical officer of the islands,* and whilst he was there 
 several cases of typhus fever of a malignant type 
 occurred. 
 
 The cottages are, with three or four exceptions, 
 thatched and without any upper storey. The invari- 
 able course adopted during the prevalence of the 
 epidemic was to nail up the door of the patient's 
 
 * " Reminiscences of FrankThorpe Porter, Esq. ,"1875, p. 489.
 
 THEIR KINDNESS. $? 
 
 apartment, to take out the sashes of the window, and 
 render it the sole means of external communication. 
 The medical attendant, priests, and nurse tenders had 
 no other means of ingress and egress, and no objection 
 appears to have ever been made to the system. 
 Doctor Porter was stricken down by the disease, and 
 although ten days had elapsed before a medical 
 gentleman arrived from Galway, the doctor sur- 
 mounted the fearful malady. " I spent," writes Mr. 
 Porter, " each night in my son's apartment, and 
 during the day he was attended by a nurse. Almost 
 every night I heard some gentle taps outside the 
 vacant window, and on going over to it, I would be 
 told ' My wife is afther making a pitcher of whey for 
 the poor docthor, you'll find it on the windy-stool ; ' or 
 ' I brought you two jugs of milk to make whey for 
 your son.' When the crisis had passed, and nutriment 
 and stimulants were required, I would be told, ' We 
 biled down two chickens into broth for the docthor, 
 I hope it will sarve him.' Rabbits, chickens, and 
 joints of kid were tendered for his use, and a bottle of 
 'rale Connemara Puttyeen,' was deposited on the 
 window-stool. The people were all kind and anxious, 
 and when he became able to walk out he was con- 
 stantly saluted and congratulated ; but no person would 
 approach him if they could avoid it They were all 
 dreadfully apprehensive that he might impart the 
 dreadful contagion. I brought him home as soon as
 
 5 8 THEIR HOSPITALITY. 
 
 possible, but he and I will always remember most 
 gratefully the unvarying kindness and sympathy we 
 experienced in Aran where they refused to take a 
 farthing either for gratuity or compensation." 
 
 On September 3, 1886, Mr. R. F. Mullery, clerk 
 of the Galway Union, thus, in answer to my letter 
 to him, writes : 
 
 " The present poundage-rate, one shilling in the 
 pound, is exceptionally low, owing to a grant 0^440, 
 under the ' relief of the distressed Unions Act,' having 
 been made to the islands. The average rate for the 
 last ten years was three shillings in the pound. We 
 never have islanders. There is no hospital, though 
 there ought to be one, on the islands, as the sick poor 
 are deterred from coming thirty miles by boat to the 
 workhouse. The general health is exceptionally good, 
 and very many live to a very old age. I have an 
 opportunity of knowing this, as I have to examine the 
 registry of deaths at the end of each quarter. The 
 islanders as a rule are very intelligent, and quick at 
 picking up anything they can either hear or see ; 
 and, best of all, they are a moral people, a case of 
 illegitimacy scarcely ever occurring in the islands, and 
 then it is looked on as a crime of the blackest dye. 
 "I have the honour, etc., 
 
 "ROBERT F. MULLERY." 
 
 The following extract from a letter written by my
 
 THEIR INDUSTRY. 59 
 
 learned friend, Philip Lyster, Esq., barrister-at-law, 
 resident magistrate of the district in which Aran is 
 situated, bears testimony to the peaceful and law- 
 abiding character of the islanders : 
 
 ' Belfast, September 26, 1886. 
 
 "Mv DEAR BURKE, 
 
 "My absence from Galway upon special 
 duty in the north has prevented my replying to your 
 note of the i8th inst. until now. 
 
 " The Aran islanders as a body are an extremely 
 well-behaved and industrious people There are 
 sometimes assaults on each other, which invariably 
 arise out of some dispute in connection with the land, 
 and are generally between members of the same family. 
 There are very few cases of drunkenness. I have 
 known two months to elapse without a single case 
 being brought up. I should say that for four years, 
 speaking from memory, I have not sent more than 
 six or seven persons to jail without the option of a 
 fine. There is no jail on the islands. We hardly 
 ever have a case of petty larceny. I remember only 
 one case of potato stealing, when the defendant was 
 sent for trial and punished. There are often cases of 
 alleged stealing of sea-weed in some bona-fide dispute as 
 to the ownership, which we then leave to arbitration 
 by mutual consent I know very little of the history 
 of the islands. In the last century justice used to be 
 administered by one of the O'Flaherty family, the
 
 60 THEIR PAMPOODIES. 
 
 father of the late James O'Flaherty, of Kilmurvy House, 
 Esq., J.P. He was the only magistrate in the islands, 
 but ruled as a king. He issued his summons for 
 ' the first fine day,' and presided at a table in the open 
 air. If any case deserved punishment he would say 
 to the defendant, speaking in Irish, ' I must transport 
 you to Galway jail for a month.' The defendant 
 would beg hard not to be transported to Galway, 
 promising good behaviour in future. If, however, his 
 worship thought the case serious, he would draw his 
 committal warrant, hand it to the defendant, who 
 would, without the intervention of police or any one 
 else, take the warrant, travel at his own expense to 
 Galway, and deliver himself up, warrant in hand, at 
 the county jail. I am afraid things are very much 
 changed since those days. Excuse my not going more 
 fully into the subject-matter of your letter. Duties 
 here are heavy. Believe me, 
 
 " Sincerely yours, 
 
 " PHILIP LYSTER." 
 
 The dress of the islanders is said, by those who 
 understand such things, to be picturesque ; but beyond 
 all doubt their shoes, or rather slippers, made of 
 untanned cow-hide with the hairy side out, and 
 without heels and without soles, are the most 
 unpicturesque foot-dress in Europe. These they call 
 Pampoodies. The raw cow-hide, which is cut to fit
 
 THEIR DRESS. 6 1 
 
 the foot, is stitched down the instep to the toe and 
 also on the back of the heel. Soft as a glove, the 
 wearer soon acquires an elasticity of step and an erect 
 and noble bearing in his walk, to which the wearer 
 of the more picturesque boot can never attain. 
 There are two things, it is said, not to be found in 
 Aran corns on the foot and frogs in the fens. 
 The young women on Sundays have their hair 
 trimmed and bound up very tastily ; but what orna- 
 ment can these young people put on equal to the 
 virtuous characters they bear? On Sundays and 
 holy days the churches are well filled, and the altars 
 well served by priests as zealous as the Catholic 
 Church can in Ireland lay claim to the Rev. Father 
 O'Donohoe, P.P., and the Rev. Father Waters, C.C. 
 
 The extreme politeness of the islanders, and their 
 desire to impart any knowledge they possess of 
 antiquarian lore or of the legends or fairy tales with 
 which the islands abound, must strike with force the 
 mind of the observing tourist Their reverence for 
 the dead, and their affection for their loved and 
 departed friends, impel them to erect, sometimes in 
 long lines on the roadside, square stone pillars about 
 ten feet in height by three feet each side, all of the 
 same measurements, surmounted each with a well-cut 
 stone cross and with inscriptions such as the follow- 
 ing : " S/a viator. Stay, traveller. O Lord have 
 mercy on the soul of Mac Dara Ternan, who departed
 
 62 THEIR HOLY WELLS. 
 
 this life 26th June, 1842." These monuments of the 
 dead, who are generally interred in far-distant church- 
 yards, have by moonlight a ghastly appearance. The 
 reverence of the Aranite for holy wells is great, nor 
 will he suffer in silence his faith in them to be ridiculed. 
 " Can you," said a stranger, " be so silly as to believe 
 that that well gushing out of the hillside was placed 
 there by a saint, in dim and remote ages?" The 
 peasant replied that a well on a mountain side or on 
 a mountain top appeared to him to be miraculous. 
 " And isn't it, sir, wonderful to see water on the top 
 of a hill ? And it must flow up the hill inside before it 
 can flow down the hill outside ; " and water flowing up 
 the hill inside or outside was to his mind miraculous. 
 The stranger answered that, "the water may have 
 been forced up from some far-off lake on a higher 
 level." The peasant's answer was, " that may be so 
 and it may not be so, but your honour does not give 
 us any proof that it is so." Wells in all ages and in 
 all places are associated with the marvellous, even 
 from the well of Zem-zem to that on the Aran rocks, 
 and we are not so sure that the geological stranger was 
 quite satisfactory as to his theory of wells on a 
 mountain summit. 
 
 Speaking of the wonders by which the native of 
 Aran is surrounded, what wonder can be greater than 
 that of the mirage, an island that is said to rise after 
 sunset from the Atlantic ? A phantom island which
 
 THE ISLE OF O'BRAZIL. 63 
 
 the people call "O'Brazil, the Isle of the Blest," upon 
 which a city like the New Jerusalem is built, and the 
 old men say that that city hath no need of the sun 
 nor of the moon to shine in it, neither does it need 
 the light of the lamp any more at all. That island 
 with that city has, they say, over and over again 
 appeared far away on the Atlantic. Alison, we 
 remember, somewhere in his charming account of the 
 French in Egypt, gives a note on the mirage of the 
 desert, where the parched-up soldiers of the French 
 republic, in 1798, used to see far-distant lakes into 
 which tumbled the waters of mighty waterfalls. On, 
 on the French soldiers rushed. Alas ! the phantom 
 vanished ; and so vanishes the phantom city seen on a 
 summer evening from the lofty cliffs of the Aran 
 islands. To follow in search of this " Isle of the Blest " 
 an Aranite peasant once resolved. He had heard of 
 St. Brendan and of Christopher Columbus, and of those 
 mariners who, sailing over the seas in search of fame 
 and of gold, were fortunate enough to find both. The 
 peasant, in spite of all persuasion, set sail. The 
 phantom receded; he followed. Still following, he 
 never returned to Aran again, and his mournful fate 
 is thus sung by Gerald Griffin : 
 
 i. 
 
 " On the ocean that hollows the rocks where ye dwell, 
 A shadowy land has appeared, as they tell ; 
 Men thought it a region of sunshine and rest, 
 And they called it O'Brazil, the Isle of the Blest
 
 64 A PHANTOM-ISLAND. 
 
 From year unto year on the ocean's blue rim, 
 The beautiful spectre showed lovely and dim ; 
 The golden clouds curtained the deep where it 
 And it looked like an Eden away far away. 
 
 " A peasant who heard of the wonderful tale, 
 In the breeze of the Orient loosened his sail ; 
 From Aran, the holy, he turned to the west, 
 For though Aran was holy, O'Brazil was blest. 
 He heard not the voice that called from the shore, 
 He heard not the rising wind's menacing roar : 
 Home, kindred, and safety, he left on that day, 
 And he sped to O'Brazil away far away. 
 
 3- 
 
 " Morn rose on the deep, and that shadowy isle, 
 O'er the faint rim and distant reflected its smile ; 
 Noon burned on the wave, and that shadowy shore 
 Seemed lovely, distant, and faint as before. 
 Lone evening came down on the wanderer's track, 
 And to Aran again he looked timidly back ; 
 Oh ! far on the verge of the ocean it lay, 
 Yet the isle of the blest was away far away ! 
 
 4- 
 
 " Rash dreamer, return ! oh, ye winds of the main, 
 Bear him back to his own peaceful Aran again ; 
 Rash fool ! for a vision of fanciful bliss 
 To barter thy calm life of labour and peace. 
 The warning of reason was spoken in vain, 
 He never revisited Aran again. 
 Night fell on the deep, amidst tempest and spray, 
 And he died on the waters away far away. "
 
 OLD AGE IN ARAN. 65 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 " Never Boreas' hoary path, 
 Never Eurus" poisonous breath, 
 Never baleful stellar lights 
 Taint Aran with untimely blights." 
 
 BURNS. 
 
 THE extreme old age to which the inhabitants live 
 in Aran proves the excellence of the air and of the 
 food. Neither asthma, nor gout, nor rheumatism are 
 known in portions of the islands. Formerly there 
 were forests of oak and of pine in Inishmore, which 
 must have been peculiarly suited to those who suffered 
 from diseases of the chest 
 
 The fishery here begins in the spring, and great 
 quantities of spillard, cod, ling, haddock, turbot, 
 gurnet, and mackerel are caught. The natives look 
 much to the herring fishery, which seldom disappoints 
 their expectations. In May the pursuit of the sun-fish 
 gives employment to many, and it appears, from 
 evidence given before the Irish House of Commons 
 in 1762, that sun-fish of average size were worth from 
 jCs to >*> each. Then all manner of shellfish are 
 in abundance in those waters multivalves, bivalves, 
 
 F
 
 66 LAND COMMISSION IN ARAN. 
 
 and univalves lobsters, oysters, periwinkles. The 
 Aranite may be said to be an amphibious animal 
 a fisherman and a farmer, but as a fisherman he 
 is powerless to cope with them whose ships are built 
 for the deep sea fishery. It was as a farmer we had 
 the pleasure of seeing him, and in the court of the Land 
 Commission, which sat in Kilronan on the 2oth of 
 July, 1886. The Land Court presented an animated 
 appearance on that day, the islanders crowding in to 
 hear their cases. Unlike any Europeans that we know 
 of, the men sat or squatted on the floor in manner as 
 the Mahometans would in the mosques of Bussorah. 
 Remarkably intelligent, they gave their evidence in 
 court with an ease and precision, especially when 
 examined in Irish, which it was refreshing to hear. 
 Many of the cases stood over from the Land Com- 
 mission sittings in the islands on June 25. 1885, 
 on which occasion there were ninety-five listed for a 
 hearing, and of these the following, the first heard, is 
 a fair specimen of all the rest, the Commission 
 being composed of Mr. Crean, B.L., Professor Baldwin, 
 and Mr. Barry. 
 
 IRISH LAND COMMISSION. 
 
 Michael O'Donel, tenant. 
 
 Miss Digby, Landenstown, county Kildare, and the 
 Hon. Thomas Kenelm Digby St. Lawrence (second 
 son of Thomas, twenty-ninth baron, third Earl of
 
 LAND COMMISSION IN ARAN. 67 
 
 Howth by his second wife, Henrietta Digby, only 
 child of Peter Barfoot, Esq., of Landenstown, county 
 Kildare), landlords. 
 
 Mr. Concannon appeared as solicitor for the 
 tenants ; Mr. Stephens, solicitor, for the landlords. 
 Michael O'Donel sworn. 
 
 Mr. Concannon. O'Donel, are you tenant of this 
 holding? 
 
 I am, your honour. 
 How long are you tenant ? 
 Since I was born and that's fifty years ago. 
 Do you swear that, that you were tenant since you 
 were born ? How long are you paying rent ? 
 
 Since my father's death, about eight years ago last 
 Pathrickmuss, that's the time I'm the rale tenant. 
 My father and his father were tenants on that holding 
 since the Deluge at all events couldn't swear longer 
 than that. 
 
 Do you swear that ? 
 
 Well, of coorse I couldn't swear it out and out. 
 What quantity of land have you in your holding? 
 Well, twenty-two acres exactly, be the same more or 
 less. [Mr. Stephens, for the landlords, said that twenty- 
 two acres was the true area of his farm.] Five of the 
 twenty-two acres were nothing but rocks and stones, 
 without one blade of grass in them, so that it was 
 seventeen acres of productive land he had, at an 
 annual rental of ^3 iSs. 6t/., and it was not worth that.
 
 68 LAND COMMISSION IN ARAN. 
 
 To the court. The last change of rent was thirty 
 years ago. 
 
 What buildings have you ? 
 
 The house is my own, and the barn. Both are 
 thatched. [Mr. Stephens did not claim the houses.] 
 Improvements? Well, there are walls, but did not 
 measure them, and small gardens. 
 
 In answer to Mr. Concannon : We claim to be 
 entitled to take the seaweed for manure. We have 
 no turf, nor timber to burn, and have to pay ^3 a year 
 for two boat loads of turf. The stock on his farm 
 was a cow and a veal calf, a horse, five sheep, and 
 eight lambs. Shears them every year, but the wool he 
 never sells as he keeps it for his family. As for tillage, 
 he had about eighty stone of potatoes last year, 
 and by his stock he realized 12; that includes 
 6 "js. 6d. that he received for a couple of veal calves. 
 He had no grain crops. He had a couple of pigs too. 
 As for his stock, maybe it's little he'd have out of them 
 coming home to his wife and childher, and his was 
 a nice wife, thanks be to God. His sheep he brings 
 by boat to the county of Clare, sells them at the fair 
 of Ennistymon. Has to pay freight 3^. a head for 
 sheep and lambs. His cattle and pigs he puts on the 
 mail boat and sails them to Galway the freight being 
 2s. 6d. for calves, and a shilling a head for pigs. And 
 wasn't he sixteen days weatherbound in Galway last 
 February, after the fair-day ?
 
 LAND COMMISSION IN ARAN. 69 
 
 Mr. Concannon would produce no valuer, he felt 
 perfect confidence in the commissioners. 
 
 This closed the tenant's case. 
 
 Mr. Thompson, of Clonskea Castle, county Dublin, 
 sworn. Is the agent on the estate ; succeeded his father, 
 who had been agent for many years. Witness has in 
 his custody all the rentals and leases of the estate from 
 1794. "The rental in 1800 was 2 143, as fixed by 
 valuation in that year. In 1812 the rental was ^2668 ; 
 in 1827, ^2145 ioj. *d. ; in 1846, ^1937 17*. id. ; 
 in 1881,^2067 > i n | 885, ^2067 ; the acreage of the 
 islands being 11,288 acres. The lands are in the 
 hands of tenants, with the exception of two croggeries 
 which are in my occupation." 
 
 The learned chairman, Mr. Crean, B.L., inquired 
 what a croggery meant. 
 
 Witness said that "croggery" was a very ancient 
 name for fourths. The entire islands were divided into 
 townlands, which townlands contained 4 or 6 quarters 
 each, every quarter containing 1 6 croggeries, and every 
 croggery containing 16 acres. Inishmore thus con- 
 
 t. qra. erof. e. 
 
 tained 4 townlands and 4 x 6 x 16 x 16 = 6144 acres. 
 On Inishmaan there are two townlands, which contain 
 6 quarters each. On Innisheer there is only one 
 townland containing 4 quarters. The tenants have 
 manure and seaweed from the sea shore free of 
 charge. The seaweed was very valuable in 1866, 
 when the kelp made on the islands realized ^2577,
 
 7O LAND COMMISSION IN ARAN. 
 
 being ^5 a ton. There is no kelp made now, owing 
 to the fall in prices. For twenty years the value 
 of a tenant's interest in a croggery varied from ^30 
 to ^90. 
 
 This closed the landlord's evidence, and the lay 
 sub-commissioners in due time inspected the farms. 
 The case came on for judgment, and the court 
 reduced the rent from ^3 i&s. 6d. to 2 'js. 6d., 
 being 39.75 per cent reduction. 
 
 All the other cases were similar to the last. 
 
 On Tuesday, July 20, 1886, her Majesty's gunboat 
 was moored at the New Docks, Galway, for the 
 purpose of taking the Land Commission composed 
 of Mr. Crean, Lieut. -Colonel Bayley, Mr. Rice and 
 myself, to Aran. The voyage was one to be remem- 
 bered. The wind, from the S.S.W., rose to a tempest, 
 not a sail in sight. Nevertheless the vessel held on 
 her course, though the wind was high against her, 
 and she let drop her anchor in due time in the Bay 
 of Kilronan. No mail boat from " Europe " arrived 
 in the islands during the greater part of that week. 
 To fix a fair rent was the object of fifty-four origi- 
 nating notices which now came on for hearing. Of 
 this number two were dismissed on points of law, 
 and forty-nine had their rents fixed, the sum of the 
 old rents being ^384, which was now reduced to 
 the new or judicial rent of ,231, being a reduction 
 in favour of the tenants of ^153, say forty per cent.
 
 BARONESS BURDETT-COUTTS. 71 
 
 This reduction, as a matter of course, was well 
 received by the islanders ; but the questions that are 
 irresistibly forced on the mind are, can any reduction 
 of rent improve their condition ? And can any tenure 
 of their farms, or any estate therein, however large, 
 raise them from their condition of comparative poverty 
 to that of wealth ? And would it be of material benefit 
 to them to sweep from the landlord the last farthing 
 of his rent, and to grant the same to them? And 
 would it not be for their weal rather that they had 
 schools to instruct the young in the natural history of 
 the fish, and in the ways of science connected with 
 the deep sea fisheries, and in navigation and all its 
 kindred branches, such as mathematics, spherical 
 trigonometry, the use of the compass, magnetic 
 needle, the constellations, and nautical tables, etc., 
 together with all the trades incident to fishing such 
 as carpentering, ship building, nail making, sail, net, 
 rope, and line making ? 
 
 And ought not the young and the old to be 
 familiarized with the name of the Baroness Burdett- 
 Coutts, and with her wonderful works in the cause of 
 the Baltimore Fishery ? And would it not be for the 
 weal of the islanders, and of the nation, the Irish 
 nation, that the islanders should be supplied, not for 
 charity, with deep sea fishing appliances, as the 
 Baltimore fishermen have been ? 
 
 The ignorance of our fishing population is thus
 
 72 THE ARAN FISHERIES. 
 
 deplored in the report of " the inspectors of the sea 
 and inland fisheries of Ireland," 1887 : 
 
 " It is melancholy to find how deficient our coast 
 population is in all these matters, and that the rising 
 generation are left untaught in arts, from the exercise 
 of which, wealth would be brought into our land, and 
 industry, self-reliance, and temperance inculcated, 
 while the seas around our island teem with fish ; so 
 much so that often, when a great capture occurs, 
 quantities of fish are lost from the want of scientific 
 knowledge as to the best means of curing ; and, at 
 the same time, Ireland is importing about 10,000 tons 
 of cured fish annually, when she might be exporting 
 double, or even treble that quantity. 
 
 " Thousands of pounds are also sent annually from 
 Ireland to England, Scotland, and the Isle of Man, 
 for nets and lines alone, the great bulk, if not all, of 
 which might be kept at home, and our people 
 profitably employed." * 
 
 The following letter, from Sir Thomas F. Brady, 
 Inspector of Irish Fisheries, Dublin Castle, on the 
 Aran fishery, is worthy of note : 
 
 " ii, Percy Place, Dublin, Dec. 5, 1886. 
 " MY DEAR BURKE, 
 
 " I have your note here. There is a large 
 number of open row boats and curraghs on the three 
 
 * Report of Inspectors of Irish Fisheries for 1887, p. 10.
 
 THE ARAN FISHERIES. 73 
 
 islands of Aran, but that is their only mode of fishing ; 
 and they can only fish at short distances from the 
 land, and cannot fish except in suitable weather. 
 There is not a single first-class fishing vessel attached 
 to the islands. The people are too poor to provide 
 themselves with such, or obtain security for loans for 
 such. There is one drawback to such vessels being 
 kept, the want of proper harbour accommodation. 
 There is a pier at the north island, but vessels cannot 
 approach it unless near high water, and there is no 
 means of improving it by extension. To make a 
 good harbour it would be necessary to build a new 
 pier into deep water ; then, if any quantity of fish is 
 taken, the vessels must lose their time and bring 
 them to Galway, thirty miles. If there were tele- 
 graphic communication between the island and 
 mainland, the Galway steamer might be sent out 
 when there was a large quantity of fish, or if there 
 were a number of first-class vessels there, it might 
 pay a steamer to attend them regularly as they do in 
 the North Sea. 
 
 " The Manx, Cornish, and French vessels, only go 
 there in the early part of the year when the mackerel 
 sets in. The Frenchmen slightly salt the fish on 
 board, and take them to France and come back 
 again for another cargo. 
 
 "Sincerely yours, 
 
 "THOMAS F. BRADV."
 
 74 THE ARAN FISHERIES. 
 
 That a step, however small, in the right direction 
 has been taken, appears from the following letter from 
 Christopher Talbot Redington, Esq., J.P., D.L., of 
 Kilcornan, in the county of Galway : 
 
 " Poor Relief (Ireland) Inquiry Commission, 
 
 "Dec. 10, 1886. 
 " DEAR MR. BURKE, 
 
 " I have been engaged all the summer, in 
 conjunction with Colonel Fraser and Mr. Mahony, in 
 expending a grant of ^20,000 in the scheduled 
 unions under the provisions of the Poor Relief Ireland 
 Act, 1886. We have carried out several works in North 
 and South Aran. The Board of Works are building 
 a pier in the middle island, 
 
 " Yours truly, 
 
 "C. T. REDINGTON." 
 
 The absence of first-class fishing boats accounts 
 for the absence of wealth in the islands. The Aran 
 fisherman sees the French fisherman fishing whilst he 
 becomes a farmer and a labourer at wages not worth 
 working for. The Rev. William Killride, rector 
 of Aran, thus writes : 
 
 "Aran, Dec. II, 1886. 
 
 "DEAR SIR, 
 
 " Men's wages vary. There is no constant 
 work whatever. Spring and the seaweed gathering for 
 kelp are the chief harvests for the labourer. A labourer
 
 TREES IN ARAN. 75 
 
 has seldom more than four months' labour in the year ; 
 so that it is a necessity on his part to get gardens on 
 hire. Until last year or the year before he got from 
 1 s. to i s. 6d. in spring, with his diet ; at harvest, about 
 is. with his diet, three meals in the day, bread and 
 tea for breakfast, etc. When there is a hurry in sea- 
 weeding time he used to get 2$. 6d. and diet, but this 
 lasts only a week twice in the year." The writer 
 then speaks of several other matters connected with 
 the island and about the possibility of growing timber 
 there. " My little grove was planted by myself. I find 
 the greatest difficulty in preserving it, seven trees 
 being destroyed this year. Then I planted every 
 nook and cranny with evergreens ; but they were 
 plucked up three several times. I got sick of this 
 thing. Many places in the island were covered 
 with trees. In fact, fifty years ago or so, I have 
 been informed that a large portion of the island 
 grew trees, especially hazel, from 20 to 26 feet in 
 height 
 
 " What kept the poor rate down both last year and 
 this was the amount of relief given out. Mr. Thomp- 
 son, the agent, laid out ^140 on a road, and ^136 
 on seed potatoes. Sir John Harrington has given me 
 upwards of 100 for this object, and this year he 
 gave me ^80 or 90 for seed potatoes and 1 20 
 for relief and also money to assist emigration and to 
 buy turf. The people will suffer terribly this year for
 
 /6 BARONESS BURDETT-COUTTS. 
 
 want of fuel. The potato crop is all gone. No fish 
 whatever taken. Any further information you may 
 want I will freely give. 
 
 " I am, dear Sir, 
 
 " Yours, very sincerely, 
 
 "WILLIAM KILLRIDE." 
 
 The poverty of the Aran fishermen was equalled 
 until lately by that of the Baltimore fishermen in the 
 south of Ireland. Their altered state of circumstances 
 appears by a report of the inspectors of Irish fisheries 
 on the sea fisheries of Ireland, presented to his 
 Excellency the Lord Lieutenant in the autumn of 
 1886. The Baltimore fishing boats had been mere 
 curraghs worth about 6 each. Owing to the 
 liberality of Baroness Burdett-Coutts,. of imperishable 
 fame, a number of deep sea fishing boats were built 
 at a cost of ^600 each, which was lent to the Balti- 
 more men on easy rates of repayment. The report 
 states that at Baltimore, in the year 1885, there were 
 41,610 boxes of fish caught by fishermen previously 
 unemployed, and these boxes of fish realized a sum of 
 ^34,585. Mostly every tradesman in the town was 
 employed; the carpenters in making boxes, the 
 smiths in strapping them round with hoop iron. 
 "Three vessels arrived in Baltimore loaded with ice, 
 and eight hulks were used for storing it, two at a 
 cost of ^20 a month, the others were owned by a
 
 THE ARAN FISHERIES. 77 
 
 company of fish buyers, at a cost of ^i 5*. a week 
 each. This for ten would amount 10^3080, besides 
 a large expenditure on packers." Fancy the like 
 sums scattered in Aran ! 
 
 At Baltimore in 1886, sixteen steamers were em- 
 ployed in carrying the fish to England, at an estimated 
 cost of ^400 each per month. 
 
 Over 100 men were employed in the boats used by 
 the buyers ; and at a rate of wages which, for twelve 
 weeks, would amount to about ^1500, besides a large 
 expenditure upon packers, etc. 
 
 In 1886 three vessels arrived with ice, containing 
 1423 tons, all of which were imported, and eight hulks 
 were used for storing it, owned by a company of fish 
 buyers. 
 
 The following instructions to persons applying for 
 loans under the Irish Reproductive Loan Fund, and 
 Sea Fisheries Fund Acts, 37 and 38 Viet. chap. 
 86; 45 Viet. chap. 16 ; and 47 and 48 Viet chap. 21, 
 would be read with delight and acted upon with 
 avidity were it not for the nasty note that appears at 
 the foot of so flaring an advertisement. 
 
 " I. Loans will be made as heretofore for the 
 purchase or repairs of boats, vessels, or fishing gear, 
 on the security of borrowers and persons to be joined 
 with them as sureties in a joint and several bond and 
 promissory notes. 
 
 " II. In special cases, where the Inspectors of Irish
 
 78 LOANS FOR FISHERY PURPOSES. 
 
 Fisheries shall deem it expedient that a new fishing 
 vessel should be supplied to a borrower instead of 
 money, they may, with the consent of the Lord 
 Lieutenant, recommend loans on the security of the 
 borrowers, and on the security of the fishing vessel 
 to be supplied. In such cases the borrowers must 
 give to the Commissioners of Public Works a joint 
 and several bond or promissory note as the case may 
 be, for the amount of the loan, and also execute a 
 deed providing that the vessel shall be registered in 
 the name of the Commissioners of Public Works, and 
 so continue registered until the loan with interest, 
 and any expense incurred, shall be repaid, and also 
 providing that in default of payment of any of the 
 instalments, by which such loan shall be made re-^ 
 payable, or in default of the borrowers preserving the 
 same in proper order and condition, or in case the 
 said vessel should become in the opinion of the said 
 Commissioners a deficient security for the amount 
 of the loan for the time being unpaid, the said 
 Commissioners may cause such boat or vessel to be 
 sold. 
 
 " III. Time for repaying any loan not exceeding 
 ten years. 
 
 " IV. Repayment by half yearly instalments with 
 interest at the rate of 2| per cent, per annum. 
 
 " NOTE. It must be observed that loans under 
 rule No. 2. can only be recommended under very
 
 THE ARAN FISHERIES. 79 
 
 exceptional circumstances, and to a very limited extent, 
 as the funds available for loans for new vessels are 
 quite insufficient to meet large demands. It will, 
 therefore, be impossible for the inspectors to do more 
 in carrying out this rule than to recommend loans 
 on the security of vessels in a few cases only, where 
 very exceptional circumstances exist, and only in 
 cases of new first-class fishing vessels being provided 
 for with thoroughly experienced fishermen of good 
 character. 
 
 " No loans for the purchase of gear will be made 
 without personal security, as laid down by the rules 
 already in force, see No. i. 
 
 " By order, 
 
 "GEORGE COFFEY, 
 
 " Secretary. 
 
 " Fisheries Office, Dublin Castle, February, 1886." 
 
 Of the immensity of the fisheries we can form no 
 estimate. But to the islanders the fisheries are 
 worthless without boats, and without the means of 
 obtaining boats ; without funds, and without the means 
 of obtaining funds. Except " under very exceptional 
 circumstances, and to a very limited extent," they are 
 unable to launch out into the deep and let down their 
 nets for a draught. It is said by one party that a 
 different state of things would prevail had the Irish 
 people an Irish Parliament. That may be so and it 
 may not be so ; but one thing is certain, that whilst
 
 80 IRISH FISHERIES IRISH PARLIAMENT. 
 
 in 1887 no bonus of any kind can be obtained, in 
 1787 bonuses of many kinds could be obtained, and 
 were obtained. In the 27th year of George III., 
 A.D. 1787, an Irish Act was passed "for the en- 
 couragement of the fishery usually called the deep 
 sea fishery." The marginal note of that section, a 
 section too long to repeat, states that " bounties will 
 be given, 80 guineas for the greatest quantity of 
 herrings caught by the crew of any one vessel, and 
 imported between the ist of June and the 3ist of 
 December in any one year; 60 guineas for the 
 next greatest quantity, 40 guineas for the next, and 
 20 guineas for the next, to be paid on the ist of 
 January following." By the same Act bounties of 
 four shillings a barrel were authorized to be given for 
 herrings; and by another section, the fourteenth, three 
 shillings and threepence by the hundredweight was 
 allowed for all dried cod, ling, and other fish mentioned 
 therein. Bounties, however, have long since been 
 discouraged by political economists, and loans have 
 long since been discouraged by other economists, and 
 between those scientists money for the improvement 
 of the Aran fishery was never so hard to be got at as 
 at this present time. 
 
 From the coastguard return it would appear that 
 the Galway coastguard division is guarded by five 
 coastguard stations, two of them being on the Aran 
 islands, in which there has been an increase in 1886
 
 THE ARAN FISHERIES TRAWLING. 8 1 
 
 of two second class and sixteen third class boats solely 
 engaged in fishing. The trawlers work from Barna 
 to the islands of Aran. That trawling injures the 
 supply of fish is insisted upon by the one party and 
 denied by the other. A court of public inquiry was 
 held in Galway, where the entire question was 
 investigated ; the result of which investigation will 
 form the subject of a special report. We shall only 
 observe that the Scotch Fishery Board has prohibited 
 trawling in some places in Scotland. " In the Galway 
 Bay trawling was prohibited for a number of years in 
 about half the bay. For about four years it was not 
 followed at all, and, so far as the evidence at public 
 inquiries could be relied on, there was no improve- 
 ment in the fisheries during the cessation of this 
 mode of fishing in either the whole, or part of the 
 bay. In the case of Dublin Bay trawling has been 
 prohibited for nearly forty-four years; and the question 
 arises whether the fisheries of that bay have increased 
 in that period. 
 
 " In other bays no trawling has ever been carried on ; 
 and the present state of the fisheries in such places 
 will have to be carefully inquired into." * 
 
 Report of Inspectors of Fisheries, 1887, p. 8.
 
 82 RE-AFFORESTING ARAN. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 " The darksome pines on yonder rocks reclined 
 Wave high and murmur to the hollow wind." 
 
 POPE. 
 
 HAVING thus far spoken of the wealth that might 
 be realized by the islanders from the waters that 
 surround their islands, let us turn to speak of the wealth 
 that might be realized by the islanders from the 
 islands themselves wealth produceable neither by 
 patches of potatoes, nor by tillage, nor by minerals, 
 nor by pasturage. On the islands are vast terraces 
 of naked rocks, and there are vast terraces of 
 rocks not naked on which grew those forests of oak, 
 of yew, and of fir of which we have already spoken, 
 when treating of Druidism. To re-afforest the 
 disafforested wilderness has of late occupied the 
 thoughts of the thoughtful in our country. Dr. 
 Lyons, for some time M.P. for the city of Dublin, 
 gave to it much of his attention. He has been taken 
 away, but his mantle has fallen upon another. Dermot 
 O'Conor Donelan, Esq., J.P., of Sylane, near Tuam,
 
 RE-AFFORESTING ARAN. 83 
 
 teaches us how the people of other countries are 
 enriched by their forests. Having made a tour 
 through the unwooded mountains of Connemara, he 
 subsequently in the present year made a tour through 
 the wooded mountains of the Grand Duchy of Baden. 
 His inquiries and the result of his inquiries in 
 that prosperous country he published in a series of 
 letters in the Irish Times and Freeman's Journal. 
 To give those letters in extenso, however instructive, 
 would fill too many of our over-filled pages, but we 
 may be permitted to make a few quotations from 
 them. 
 
 "It is a noteworthy fact," writes Mr. Donelan, 
 " that from the class of lands similar to those that lie 
 waste in Ireland, the recent progress of Germany 
 is generally believed to proceed. Prussia, Bavaria, 
 Saxony, Wurtemburg, Baden, and Alsace-Lorraine have 
 a combined population of 40,644,000. The labour 
 connected with the forests of those countries and their 
 products have been estimated to be worth ,9,450,000 : 
 and those earnings suffice for the maintenance of 
 about 300,000 families." He then forms a painful 
 contrast between Baden and Ireland between the 
 German mountain districts, and the mountain dis- 
 tricts of the same kind in Ireland where there is a 
 similarity of soil ; but there the similarity ends. 
 
 " The mountains and bogs of Connemara, with the 
 roots and remains of trees scattered everywhere
 
 84 FORESTS IN BADEN 
 
 amongst them, are lying there in their bare and 
 melancholy desolation, and but for the presence of 
 some miserable hovels, the whole scene might be inside 
 the Arctic circle. The mountains of Schwartzwald 
 however, are covered with forests of silver fir, and by 
 their vast supplies of timber are creating vast in- 
 dustries. In a tour which I made through it some 
 months ago, I observed that almost every branch 
 of wood-work was in active operation, and for miles 
 together the rattle of machinery was hardly ever 
 silent. The manufacture of paper from wood, which 
 is comparatively new, has already assumed very large 
 proportions in South-Western Germany. Second class 
 wood-ends, etc., for paper-making, can be had for 
 about eight shillings a ton ; while straw must always 
 cost from 305. to 2 los. This difference will 
 gradually transfer the manufacture of paper and papier- 
 mache to this and similar forest districts. Within 
 the last few years several mills have been established 
 for the manufacture of cellulose from wood. They 
 have been found successful, and it is expected that 
 this will soon be among the most important of the 
 forest industries. A list of the objects of which 
 cellulose is the basis would form a curious example of 
 recent invention. In the American Patent Office no 
 less than one hundred and twenty patents have been 
 taken out in connection with cellulose since 1870. 
 Gun-cotton, collodion, celluloid, artificial ivory,
 
 FOREST INDUSTRIES. 85 
 
 handles for knives, etc.; dental plates, cuffs, collars, 
 shoe-tips and in-soles, billiard balls, are a few names 
 taken from a long list, and which will give an idea of 
 the number of trades this one material is establishing 
 in many cities and towns of Germany. Celluloid can 
 be made as hard as ivory or be spread on like paint ; 
 it is water proof, air proof, and acid proof. It can be 
 pressed or stamped, planed as wood, turned in a lathe, 
 and it can be transparent or opaque. 
 
 " I am not able to state the quantity of basket and 
 wicker-work used in the United Kingdom, but at 
 the lowest computation it must be several millions 
 worth a year, the imports alone being very large. 
 
 "It would not be possible to enumerate," he writes, 
 " the number of industries which supplies of timber 
 are capable of developing. Some of those would 
 spring up within twelve or fourteen years, and which 
 are further capable of enormous development Poplar 
 grows rapidly in Ireland ; in twelve years the thinnings 
 are of considerable size, and, according to Mr. 
 Herbert's report on the forestry of Russia (Blue Book, 
 commercial, 31, 1883), it appears that from poplar 
 most of the paper exported from Russia is manu- 
 factured. The consumption of paper in the United 
 Kingdom must be over ^30,000,000 a year, and if it 
 be probable that mountain forests are likely to be the 
 scene of a considerable portion of its production in 
 the future, what an opportunity is there then of
 
 86 RE-AFFORESTING ARAN. 
 
 utilizing by means of forestry the waste lands and the 
 cheap labour of Donegal and Connemara. Ever 
 since 1800 the question of the waste lands has been 
 before the public. It was reported on in 1812, and 
 again by the Devon Commission of 1840. Every 
 writer on the industrial resources of Ireland had paid 
 it particular attention. It was mentioned by Sir 
 Richard Griffith, by Munns, by Dutton, and even 
 before 1800 by Arthur Young. There is hardly a 
 Government in Europe which has not undertaken the 
 work of reclaiming and afforesting waste lands." 
 
 So writes the author of those interesting letters, 
 and he dissipates an illusion which is prevalent 
 amongst us, namely, that to turn planting into profit 
 requires long years and gross timber. On the con- 
 trary, as his observations prove, in their earlier years 
 of growth forests will supply many industries for 
 which old timber is unsuited. A great objection to 
 re-afforesting mountains and rocky districts is the 
 length of time that is generally supposed must elapse 
 before so gigantic a work could become remunerative ; 
 but Mr. O'Conor Donelan shows that no great length 
 of time is necessary, and that after a very few years 
 timber would be suitable for the works of which he 
 speaks. Would that the Government would take his 
 words to heart, and do in Ireland what German 
 statesmen have done in Germany ! There are men 
 amongst us who would fain believe that Aran is too
 
 FORESTS FORMERLY IN ARAN. 87 
 
 much exposed to the westerly winds to admit of 
 timber being grown on the islands ; but the great 
 roots old in the earth tell of the great trees that grew 
 in Aran many centuries ago.
 
 SUN-WORSHIP IN ARAN. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 SUPERSTITIONS OF THE GROVE. 
 
 " Oh the Oak, and the Ash, and the bonnie Ivy tree 
 Flourish best at hame in the North Countrie." 
 
 IN the present chapter we propose to give a few of 
 the legends with which groves were enriched when 
 the worship of the sun (Baal) was the religion of the 
 world legends yet remembered in Aran. In the 
 groves they offered sacrifices, and "burnt," writes 
 the Prophet Hosea, " incense under the oak and the 
 poplar and the turpentine tree [the pine], because 
 the shadow thereof was good." * And we are told 
 that " Abraham planted a grove in Bersabee, and there 
 called upon the Name of the everlasting God." t 
 The selection of such places originated, no doubt, in 
 the fact that the gloom of the forest was calculated 
 to excite awe, and because they considered that the 
 spirits of the departed hovered over the places where 
 the bodies were buried ; and it was common to bury 
 * Hos. iv. 13. t Gen. xxi. 33.
 
 WORSHIP OF BAAL IN ARAN. 89 
 
 the dead under trees, as appears from the eighth 
 verse of the thirty-fifth chapter of the Book of Genesis, 
 where it is stated that when Deborah, the nurse of 
 Rebecca, died, she was buried at the foot of Bethel 
 under an oak tree,and the name of that place was 
 called " The Oak of Weeping ; " and when Saul, the first 
 King of Israel, fell at the battle of Gilboe, his bones 
 were buried under an oak tree at Jabesh.* Amongst 
 the Hebrews it was common, before the time of Moses, 
 to plant groves. But the idolatrous nations planted 
 them also ; and groves and the places of idol-worship 
 soon became convertible terms. For the purpose, 
 therefore, of extirpating idolatry, the Lord thus spoke 
 through Moses : " Thou shall plant no grove, nor 
 any tree near the altar of the Lord thy God." f And 
 in after-centuries, when Josias abolished the worship 
 of Baal in Judah, and destroyed them that offered 
 incense to the sun, and the moon, and to the twelve 
 signs, he caused the grove to be burnt there. { 
 
 Whether the groves of Aran were destroyed at the 
 time of the destruction of the religion of Baal and of 
 the introduction of Christianity, or in after-ages, it is 
 impossible now to state. That great trees had exist- 
 ence in the islands in 1618 is certain, as appears by 
 a partly hereinbefore recited indenture of that date, 
 when Henry Lynch did demise a moiety of the three 
 
 * I Chron. x. 12. f Deut. xvi. 21. 
 
 I 2 Kings xxiii. 5, 6.
 
 90 NYMPHS OF TREES. 
 
 islands to William Anderson, his executors, etc., for a 
 long term of years, excepting thereout great trees. 
 
 The Oak. The chief object of worship was the 
 oak, which has not inaptly been called "the king 
 of the forest." With its life was bound up the life 
 of a nymph, for the nymphs of trees, called in classics 
 Hamadryades, were believed to die together with the 
 trees which had been their abode, and with which they 
 had come into existence. Those that presided over 
 woods in general were called Dryades, as the divinities 
 of particular trees were Hamadryades. Not unfre- 
 quently has the axe of the woodman been stayed by 
 the voice of the nymph breaking from the groaning 
 oak. 
 
 That misfortune was believed to follow in the foot- 
 steps of those who wantonly felled an oak is abun- 
 dantly proved by the soothsayers in the olden time. 
 Often have oaks become attached to the lords of the 
 house with whose existence they were bound for 
 hundreds of years. If the leaves in a living state 
 have prophesied touching the affairs of men, so did 
 the dried timbers, as in the case of the Argo, when 
 they warned the Argonauts of the misfortunes that 
 awaited them. Not unfrequently has the falling of a 
 branch of the oak tree warned the protecting family 
 of coming disasters. The idols in idolatrous times 
 were manufactured from its wood, though more fre- 
 quently from that of the ash, and from it was cut the
 
 THE OAK. 91 
 
 yule-log which served to maintain the perpetual fire. 
 Once a year all fires and lights but one were ex- 
 tinguished, and that was the oaken log, from which 
 every other fire in the islands was with much ceremony 
 relighted. 
 
 The medicinal qualities of the tree, and the charmed 
 life it bore, prophetic, as we have said, and causing 
 diseases to depart by its spells and incantations, must 
 have made its existence, if it knew anything at all 
 about it, a happy one. The Irish of the " oak " is 
 Dara, and many an Aranite bears that name. 
 
 Now, there was a blessed Saint, " Mac Dara," who 
 lived in those islands long ages ago, and there was a 
 renowned statue of him made of oak, which the people 
 venerated with an idolatrous veneration. It was in vain 
 that the Catholic clergy called on them to desist from 
 kneeling before the graven image, and from swearing 
 on it rather than on the Book of the Gospels, on which 
 all men swore. Malachy O'Queely, Roman Catholic 
 Archbishop of Tuam, was, however, resolved to put 
 down an exhibition which he considered a scandal to 
 the Catholic Church, and so, coming to the islands in 
 1645, he tore down the statue and flung it into the sea; 
 but ill luck awaited him. In the same year he was 
 sent by the Supreme Council of Kilkenny to accompany 
 the confederate troops to Sligo, which had been lately 
 taken by the Parliamentary forces. He did so, and 
 the warrior archbishop rushed to the relief of the town,
 
 92 OAK ASH. 
 
 and for a season dislodged the enemy; but the tide of 
 victory turned, the Irish were routed, and the body of 
 the prelate was literally cut to pieces. Upon him 
 was found that treaty with Charles T. which after- 
 wards helped to bring the unhappy king to the 
 scaffold. 
 
 Another of the superstitions that attaches to the 
 king of the forest is that, if his majesty leafs before 
 the ash, the coming season will be dry ; if, however, the 
 ash leafs before the oak, then the coming season will 
 be wet 
 
 " If the oak's before the ash, 
 Then you'll only get a splash ; 
 If the ash precedes the oak, 
 Then you may expect a soak." 
 
 Of the Irish oak and of the horror that insects have of 
 that tree, we may form an estimate from Hall, who, in 
 his Chronicles, says that "William Rufus builded West- 
 minster Hall, and the oaks with which the said Hall 
 was roofd were felled in Oxmanstown Green, near 
 Dublin, and no spider webbeth and breedeth in that 
 roof of oak even to this day." Of the remote pedigree 
 of the oak we need not speak further than to remind 
 those who are curious about such matters that the 
 oak all over the world is said to be the first created 
 of all trees, and next to it comes the ash. 
 
 The Ash is "the Venus of the forest" On ashen 
 sticks (dreadful in matters of witchcraft, as appears
 
 ASH ROWAN TREE. 93 
 
 from the evidence given in the case of " the Dame 
 Alice Kettler," tried for witchcraft in Kilkenny, in 
 1324) witches were wont at night to ride "through 
 the fog and filthy air." To love-sick maidens the 
 even ash leaf that is, where the leaflets of the leaf 
 are even in number is of priceless value, "and 
 note that if a youngster meeteth and plucketh an 
 even ash leaffe and a four leaffed clover [shamrock], 
 they are most certaine to meet their husband or wyfe, 
 as the case may be, before the day passeth over ; " 
 and so runs the old saw 
 
 " And if you find 
 
 An even-leaved ash and a four-leaved clover, 
 You'll see your true love 'fore the day is over." 
 
 Strange that the mountain ash, the rowan tree, should 
 be held in horror by witches. "Of it whip-handles 
 are made, for the bewitched and stumbling horses 
 thereby become unbewitched and unstumblers." So 
 also the housewife should, before turning the cows 
 out to grass for the summer, tie a switch of mountain 
 ash with a red worsted thread around the cow's tail. 
 The chum, so often bewitched of its butter, is certain 
 to withstand the evil eye when the churn-staff is 
 manufactured of the rowan tree. The roots of the 
 ash or the mountain ash, in Aran, are of rare 
 occurrence ; we shall, therefore, pass on to the aspen, 
 of which it is said that it alone refused to bow, as 
 the other trees did, to the Redeemer, and that for
 
 94 ELDER PINE. 
 
 such conduct the aspen leaf all over the world 
 trembleth even to this hour. 
 
 The Elder. The most unlucky of all trees is the 
 elder, now a mere bush ; for out of it was made 
 the cross of Christ, and from one of its boughs 
 Judas hanged himself. In Scotland this tree is 
 known as the bourtree, and hence the rhyme 
 
 " Bourtree, bourtree, crooked wrung, 
 Never straight and never strong ; 
 Ever bush and never tree, 
 Since our Lord was nailed to thee." 
 
 The mushrooms growing in or near the elder are 
 known as Judas's ears, of wondrous virtue in curing 
 coughs. 
 
 " For a cough take Judas' ear, 
 
 With the parings of the pear ; 
 
 And drink this without fear." 
 
 The superstitions attached to this tree are many, and 
 to tell them would fill a volume. 
 
 Stumps of Pine and Fir are numerous in the Aran 
 islands. The fir tree has been ever highly esteemed. 
 It was amongst the materials employed in the building 
 of Solomon's temple. Together with the pine it was 
 held in such veneration in France, that St. Martin met 
 with the strongest possible opposition when he pro- 
 posed the destruction of the holy fir groves. The fir 
 grew luxuriantly in Palestine ; and the Prophet Hosea 
 saith that the Lord will make Ephraim flourish " like
 
 HOLLY IVY. 95 
 
 a green fir tree." * And another prophet, Ezechiel, 
 informs us, in the fifth verse of the twenty-seventh 
 chapter of his prophecy, that the navy of Tyre was 
 constructed of this tree, whilst the masts were from 
 the cedars (pines) of Libanus. It was the timber, too, 
 used for the manufacture of musical instruments in 
 Israel; for "in the Second Book of Samuel (ch. vL 5) 
 it is written that " David and all the house of 
 Israel played before the Lord on all manner of 
 instruments made of fir wood, even on harps, and 
 lutes, and timbrels, and cornets, and cymbals." And 
 when Hiram, King of Tyre, sent timber to Solomon 
 for the building of the temple, it was the cedar and 
 the firf he sent, for which he was allowed twenty 
 thousand measures of wheat It was, in Palestine, a 
 tall tree, on the tops of which, we are informed some- 
 where in the Psalms, the storks built their nests. 
 
 The Holly, or Holy, and the Ivy are indigenous in 
 the soil of Aran. In idolatrous times holly was 
 planted, according to Pliny, in the neighbourhood of 
 dwelling-houses, to keep away spirits and all manner 
 of enchantments. There can be no doubt that those 
 who believe dreams to be other than the wanderings 
 of the fancy can on any night have steady sensible 
 dreams of a reliable nature if they bring home in their 
 handkerchief (observing the strictest silence all the 
 time) nine leaves of thornless holly and place the same 
 * Hos. xiv. 9. f I Kings v. 10, n.
 
 96 HAWTHORN BLACKTHORN. 
 
 under their pillow. Amongst the conversions of the 
 trees of the forest from the pagan to the Christian 
 faith, that of the ivy was the most remarkable ; it no 
 longer adorns the brow of a drunken Bacchus, but is 
 now entwined in wreaths over the altar at the midnight 
 Mass on Christmas night. Nevertheless, they that 
 would look into futurity can still read in the ivy leaf 
 of what is coming to pass in after-times. Place a leaf, 
 on New Year's Eve, in a basin of water, and take it out 
 on the eve of Twelfth Night; if it come out fresh, 
 health is on the house ; but if it come out spotted, 
 sickness and death are sure to follow. 
 
 The Hawthorn and Blackthorn grow freely in the 
 islands. Need it be told that the antipathy between 
 these shrubs is so great that the one is never found to 
 be growing naturally near the other? Of course, if 
 planted together, they will struggle on for a time ; but 
 one or other generally sickens and dies ; for there is a 
 controversy between them as to which had the mis- 
 fortune to supply the crown of thorns to Christ on the 
 night of the Passion. The peasantry in England, 
 Scotland, and France believe it was the hawthorn, and 
 they look on it as an outrage to bring in flowering 
 hawthorn in May to their houses, it being unlucky and 
 accursed ever since that dreadful night preceding the 
 Crucifixion. So also the blackthorn in Austria and 
 the south of Europe is considered unlucky ; as it is 
 there insisted on that it supplied the thorns, wherefore
 
 THE ROSE SILENCE. 97 
 
 it is doomed to blossom when no other tree of the 
 forest dares, in the teeth of the poisonous Eurus, so to 
 do. On which side the truth lies we shall not venture 
 to speculate ; but our astonishment is great when we 
 learn that the walking-stick of Joseph of Arimathgea 
 was of hawthorn, that in Glastonbury he stuck it 
 accidentally in the ground, and that ever since it and 
 its descendants bud, blossom, and fade on Christmas 
 Day! 
 
 The Rose. " I am the Rose of Sharon." In the 
 East it is the pride of flowers for fragrance and 
 elegance. It was used amongst the ancients in 
 crowns and chaplets at festive meetings and religious 
 sacrifices. A traveller in Persja describes two rose 
 trees fully fourteen feet high, laden with thousands 
 of flowers, and of a bloom and delicacy of scent 
 that imbued the whole atmosphere with the most 
 exquisite perfume. Originally it was white, and the 
 white moss-rose was suspended over the door of the 
 Temple of Silence ; whence it is that secrets are said 
 to be told " under the rose." At convivial banquets in 
 Greece the guests not unfrequently wore chaplets of 
 roses, and anything said by them whilst wearing the 
 emblem of silence was not to be repeated. The white 
 rose was the emblem of purity, and the term " Mystical 
 Rose " is applied by the Catholic Church to the Virgin 
 Mary. Under the cross there grew, amongst the wild 
 flowers of Calvary, a multitude of white roses, some of 
 
 H
 
 98 THE ROSARY FERNS. 
 
 which were reddened with the blood of Christ. From 
 these comes the red rose, emblematic, not alone of 
 purity, but of martyrdom. The tomb of the Virgin 
 (the Rose that never fades) was found by the apostles 
 to be filled with roses after the Assumption. Her 
 altars ever after have been decorated with roses, and 
 it was a high privilege in the Middle Ages to have a 
 garden where no other flower was admitted. These 
 gardens, called rosaries, may have suggested to St. 
 Dominic the name given to that collection of prayers 
 which he arranged, and which he called the Rosary. 
 
 The love of the nightingale for this flower is pro- 
 verbial in the East. It is unnecessary, of course, for 
 us to remind our readers that the white and red roses 
 were the badges of the rival houses of York and 
 Lancaster. 
 
 As for the elm and the beech, countless super- 
 stitions are attached to these trees, but as we fail to 
 find that they existed in Aran, so we shall not prose- 
 cute further our inquiries on this head. 
 
 Ferns. Not the least interesting amongst the 
 botanical curiosities of Aran are the ferns, that carry 
 their seed on their backs a seed that has, it is said, 
 the extraordinary property of making the person in 
 whose shoes it is placed instantly invisible to all but 
 himself. So Shakespeare has it, too, in his play of 
 " i Henry IV.," act ii. scene i : 
 
 " We have the receipt of fern seed, we walk invisible."
 
 FERNS INVISIBILITY. 99 
 
 A painful illustration of this property occurred, it is 
 told, when once upon a time a man was looking for a 
 foal that had strayed from his stable. He happened to 
 pass through a meadow just as the fern was ripened, 
 some of the seeds of which were shaken into his shoes, 
 After a wearisome and fruitless search during the night 
 he returned all travel-soiled in the morning, and sat 
 down in his house to join the family at breakfast. He 
 was amazed to see that neither wife nor children 
 welcomed him home, nor showed the slightest concern 
 at the night he had spent, nor even inquired about 
 the result of his search. At length, breaking silence, 
 he said, " I haven't found the foal." All were startled, 
 and they looked everywhere to see where he was 
 hiding. Believing that his family were treating him with 
 contempt, he repeated, in a towering passion, " I have 
 not found the foal ! " They all sprang to their feet, 
 and his wife called him by name to give over that 
 nonsense, and to come out from his hiding-place. The 
 creaking of his shoes was distinctly heard, though the 
 wearer thereof could not be seen. At length, in 
 a voice of anger, he repeated, as he planted himself 
 opposite his wife at the foot of the table, " I say, I 
 have not found the foal ! " Need we tell the terrors 
 of the family ? But just then he remembered that he 
 had, on the previous night, crossed a meadow loaded 
 with ferns, and that some of the seed might have got 
 into his shoes, and that he was therefore invisible.
 
 100 FAIRY FLAX FAIRIES. 
 
 Flinging them off, he at once became visible to 
 everybody. 
 
 Fern seed has also the valuable property of doubling 
 a man's power in the working field, several examples 
 of which are given by writers on this interesting 
 subject. 
 
 The. Fairy Flax of Aran we have frequently spoken 
 of in the preceding pages, and that flax may be spun 
 from year's end to year's end, and little realized 
 thereby, unless, indeed, " the good people," as the 
 fairies are called,* take the spinner under their pro- 
 tection. Now, there was once a man in humble cir- 
 cumstances, who had an only daughter, the most 
 beautiful creature that ever was seen. She spent 
 much of her time spinning, but to no purpose. At 
 length a hideous dwarf, lame and blind of an eye, 
 came to her one day as she was spinning, and pre- 
 sented her with a distaff full of flax, upon which, he 
 said, there was enough for her whole life, if she lived a 
 hundred years, provided she did not spin it quite off. 
 On she went spinning, but never spinning to the end, 
 and her loom produced the choicest of stuffs, for which 
 
 * Numbers of books treat of the superstitious belief in fairies. 
 The Irish fancy that they are the " fallen angels " mentioned in 
 Jude 6, and that on the day of judgment they will be released 
 from their hapless condition (2 Peter ii. 4). The belief in fairies 
 is universal in Mahomedan countries. Vide " Lalla-Rookh," 
 " Paradise and the Peri."
 
 SATURDAY'S SPINNING HEMP. 101 
 
 she received prices almost fabulous ! Day by day her 
 wealth increased, and after a time she felt assured that 
 the produce of her labour had now secured so sure a 
 market that it made little difference whether she spun 
 the fairy flax right off or not ; so, to try what would 
 be the effect, in her curiosity she spun it to the end. 
 In a moment the wheel stopped, and she had ever 
 after to repent the curiosity that stripped her of 
 immense wealth. 
 
 The spinning-wheel in Aran, the old crones say, 
 should never spin on Saturday. Whence this keeping 
 holy the Saturday I know not ; but it does look as if 
 they who kept the Saturday holy, were of Israelitish 
 descent were, perhaps, of the lost tribes carried into 
 Nineveh at the time of the Captivity by Salamanassar, 
 730 B.C. 1* Now, there were two old women indefati- 
 gable spinners, whose wheels never stood still, though 
 they were by the wise men warned not to spin on 
 Saturdays. At length one of them died, and on the 
 Saturday night following she appeared to the other, 
 who was as usual busy at the wheel, and showed her 
 her burning hand, saying 
 
 "See what in hell at last I've won, 
 Because on Saturdays I've spun." 
 
 Hemp. I don't remember seeing hemp growing in 
 Aran to any great extent. Sowing the seed of hemp 
 
 * 2 Kings xvii. 6.
 
 102 HAZEL DIVINING-RODS. 
 
 on All Hallows' Eve in some parts of the country, and 
 on St. John's Night in others, is described in the 
 following lines from Gay's " Pastorals " : 
 
 "At eve last midsummer no sleep I sought, 
 But to the field a bag of hemp seed brought : 
 I scattered round the seed on every side, 
 And three times in a trembling accent cried, 
 ' This hemp seed with my virgin hand I sow, 
 Who shall my true love be the crop shall mow. ' 
 I straight looked back, and, if my eyes speak truth, 
 With his keen scythe behind me came the youth. 
 ' With my sharp heel I three times mark the ground, 
 And turn me thrice around, around, around ! " 
 
 The Hazel, one of Thor's trees, is generally used as 
 a divining-rod to discover mines and lost treasures 
 supposed to be hidden underground. The person who 
 seeks for the treasure takes a hazel rod with an end in 
 each hand, and then slowly walks over the ground, 
 keeping the rod in a horizontal position before him ; 
 when passing over the spot it bends down like a 
 bow in the middle, towards the place as if it were 
 magnetized, as the needle turns to the pole. Beyond 
 a doubt the hazel is known to miners, and to those 
 who look for minerals underground, as the divining- 
 rod. 
 
 And now, bringing our legends to a close, we shall 
 bid farewell to these lonely and lovely isles, and in 
 bidding them farewell we shall merely ask how 
 it is that the travelling English public travel not
 
 FAREWELL INISHMORE. IO3 
 
 into these islands, where frosts never wither, where 
 snows never rest ? And so farewell to Inishmore, the 
 island-home of St. Enda Inishmore once 
 
 " Notissima fama 
 
 Insula dives opum, Hibemia dum regna manebant 
 Nunc tantum sinus, et static mala fida carinis."
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 
 "Adorned with honours on their native shore, 
 Silent they sleep and dream of wars no more." 
 
 POPE'S Iliad. 
 
 WE have spoken so much in the foregoing pages of the 
 O'Briens, lords of Aran, that we feel inclined to say a 
 word as to, who those O'Briens were, whence they came, 
 and whither they went ; and first, let us state that their 
 pedigree is traced by Irish genealogists to a date earlier 
 than the Christian era. The O'Briens, lords of Aran, were 
 descended from Bryan Boroimhe, King of Thomond and 
 monarch of all Ireland, who conquered and fell at the 
 battle of Clontarf on April 23, 1014, when the Danish 
 power, all over Ireland, was scattered to the four winds 
 of heaven. In the third generation after the death of 
 Bryan, his descendant Dermod sat on the throne of 
 Thomond, and this Dermod had sons and daughters, 
 and the eldest of the sons was called Turlough, who in 
 1118 became, on his father's death, King of Thomond, 
 whilst his younger brother was Mahon, and his youngest 
 brother was Teige ; and the clan MacTeige for 470 
 years ruled those islands, we have no doubt, with a 
 very equitable and a very paternal rule, and wholly un- 
 hampered with legislative bodies such as a Witenagemot,
 
 106 O'BRIENS LORDS OF ARAN. 
 
 or with the parliamentary institutions of the Normans, 
 where the members then, as now, had the liberty of speak- 
 ing, sometimes very plainly, their minds as, indeed, 
 the Norman name of our legislative assembly imports : 
 Parler-les-mens, a place for "speaking their minds." 
 That the Corporation of Galway recognized the power of 
 the O'Briens, lords of the isles, is plainly told in the fore- 
 going pages, where we remember that twelve tuns of wine 
 were annually paid to the lord for sweeping the sea, as 
 it were with a broom, clean of the Algerine pirates that 
 then infested the high seas ; and there can be little if any 
 doubt that the O'Briens were ready, from time to time and 
 at all times, to massacre the foe wherever they met him, 
 and to convert his ships to their own use and behoof in 
 manner and form as by their indenture of treaty was 
 provided. It is not for us to criticize with critical pen 
 the policy of the respected lord of the isles, who, in 
 1560, was swallowed up in the deep, near the Great 
 Man's Bay, when he was returning from Thomond loaded 
 with the booty which, at the point of the sword, he had 
 won from the subjects of his cousin O'Brien of Thomond ; 
 for it does not appear that ties of blood preserved his 
 Majesty of Thomond from the vengeance of his lordship 
 the lord of the isles, or, mutatis mutandis, the lord of the 
 isles from the vengeance of his Majesty. " An eye for an 
 eye and a tooth for a tooth," was their maxim, and it may 
 have been good law where the antagonists had each two 
 eyes and two teeth ; but the vengeance was dreadful 
 when the punished party had only one eye and one tooth. 
 He was then blinded and untoothed out and out ; and 
 frequently such dreadful vengeance did await the con- 
 quered. Let us not, however, be too hard on the con- 
 querors when we remember that David sawed his pri- 
 soners in two, and drove harrows over them in a harrowed
 
 OBRIENS LORDS INCHIQUIN. IO/ 
 
 field.* The O'Flaherties, an equally warlike race, dispos- 
 sessed the lords of the isles, and in 1588, the very year of 
 the Spanish Armada, Queen Elizabeth finally confiscated 
 their territories, and now the name of O'Brien is forgotten 
 in Aran. Not so on the mainland ; the O'Briens are still 
 in Thomond and elsewhere, as, it is to be hoped, they 
 will be for centuries yet to come. The lords of the Isles 
 of Aran are extinct. The last of the male line was John 
 O'Brien of Moyvanine and Clounties, whose daughter 
 Sarah was married to Stephen Roche, from whom is 
 descended the present Thomas Redington Roche, of Rye- 
 hill, Esq., J.P., Co. Galway. Amongst the families 01 
 this house still existing in Thomond, are the noble house 
 of Inchiquin and the O'Briens of Ballynalacken, both of 
 whom trace up, in an unbroken succession, to Bryan 
 Boroimhe, who, like Leonidas at Thermopylae, fell fighting 
 the foreign foe for the liberties of his country. 
 
 The title of Inchiquin dates from the year 1543, but 
 no title was required to ennoble those who were of the 
 blood of kings, and were " nobler than the royalty that 
 first ennobled them." The untitled aristocracy in England 
 are often superior to the titled aristocracy, who cannot 
 trace back farther than the Wars of the Roses. Now, 
 the last King of Thomond resigned his royalty to Henry 
 VIII., who in return, by patent A.D. 1543, bestowed upon 
 Murrough O'Brien, and upon the heirs male of his body, 
 the title of Baron of Inchiquin. This Murrough had two 
 sons, the elder Dermot, and the younger Donough, and 
 Dermot on his father's death became Baron of Inchiquin ; 
 and so the title descended from father to son until the 
 year 1855, when James, the twelfth baron, who was 
 also seventh Earl of Inchiquin (creation A.D. 1654) and 
 third Marquis of Thomond (A.D. 1800), died without issue 
 
 * 2 Sam. xii. 31.
 
 108 MARSHAL MACMAHON. 
 
 male, when the earldom and marquisate expired. There- 
 upon the father of the present baron, who was also a 
 baronet, and brother to William Smith O'Brien, celebrated 
 as Member of Parliament and leader of the Irish people, 
 knowing his descent from Donough, second son of the 
 first baron, instructed his counsel to bring his case before 
 the Committee of Privileges of the House of Lords, to 
 whose satisfaction he proved that he was heir male of 
 the body of the first baron, and thereupon he was con- 
 firmed in said barony, and became thirteenth baron. 
 
 Let us now go back to Dermod,the third generation from 
 Bryan Boroimhe, which Dermod died, as we said, in 1 1 18, 
 leaving three sons, the eldest Turlough, King of Thomond, 
 the younger Mahon, and the youngest Teige, lord of the 
 isles ; from Mahon is sprung Marshal MacMahon, whose 
 acts and deeds are known of by all men. 
 
 This Turlough, King of Thomond, was ancestor of 
 Teige O'Brien, who married Annabella, daughter of 
 Ulick McWilliam Burke, of Clanrickarde, known as 
 " Ulick of the Wine," and by her had, with other 
 sons, Turlough Don, King of Thomond in 1498, and 
 Donai. Turlough Don was ancestor of the family of In- 
 chiquin, of which we have spoken, and from Donal sprang 
 Turlough O'Brien, who was married to a grandniece of 
 Sir Toby Butler, better known as the jovial Sir Toby, the 
 great luminary of the Connaught Circuit, Solicitor-General 
 for Ireland under James II., and the celebrated lawyer 
 who drafted that treaty which will be remembered by all 
 generations as the broken Treaty of Limerick. Turlough 
 was the grandfather of John O'Brien, of Ballynalacken, 
 who died in 1855, and of James O'Brien, Esq., Q.C., who 
 was Member of Parliament for the city of Limerick from 
 1854 to 1858, when he was raised to a judgeship in the 
 Queen's Bench. It is too near our own time to speak of
 
 O'BRIENS OF BALLYNALACKEN. 109 
 
 that learned lawyer further than to say that " he judged 
 not according to appearance, but judged just judgment ;" 
 that in him the prisoner at the bar found a merciful judge, 
 and at the same time one who held the scales so that 
 crime could not escape with impunity. Let us hope that 
 when he went to a higher court he reaped the rewards 
 promised to a just judge ; and let us hope that those who 
 come after him of his name and race may, when their 
 turn comes, follow in his footsteps, and thus show that 
 the wisdom of the wise still dwells in the brehons of 
 the Celtic race. 
 
 The Ballynalacken O'Briens are now represented 
 amogst the landed gentry by James O'Brien, J.P., 
 D.L., and they are also represented at the Bar by his 
 brother, my learned friend, Peter, late Sergeant O'Brien, 
 now Solicitor-General for Ireland.
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 
 STATISTICS OF ISLANDS OF ARAN. 
 
 Area, 11,288 acres. 
 Population Census 1815,2400 
 
 1871, 3049; increase, 640 
 
 ,, 1881,3163 114 
 
 Inhabited houses, 1815 395 
 
 1881 576 181 
 
 Petty Sessions District, Aran. 
 
 Religion of Aranites, 1871, 2993 Roman Catholics 
 
 55 Protestant Episcopalians 
 
 i Presbyterian 
 
 Total 3049 
 
 Religion of Aranites, 1 881, 3118 Roman Catholics; in- 
 crease, 125 
 
 44 Protestant Episcopalians ; 
 
 decrease, 1 1 
 
 i Presbyterian 
 
 Total 3163 
 
 Number speaking Irish only in Aran, 1871 ... 835 
 
 English and Irish ... 1924 
 
 Irish only, 1881 889 
 
 English and Irish, 1881 ... 1829
 
 STATISTICS OF ARAN. I I I 
 
 Constabulary barracks, 1871 i 
 
 1881 3 
 
 Number of constabulary, 1871 6 
 
 1881 18 
 
 Coastguard barracks, 1881 ... 2 
 
 Quarter Sessions Galway. 
 Petty Sessions Held on the islands. 
 
 Roman Catholic churches in Aran 4 
 
 Protestant Episcopal church i 
 
 Protestant church accommodation 180 
 
 Annual income of parish priest, 1801 ^60* 
 
 Protestant incumbent ;'25f 
 
 National schools in islands ... 4 
 
 Average attendance, Sept., 1886, to June, 1887 ... 524 
 Manager, Rev. M. O'Donoghoe, P.P. 
 
 Fishing boats on islands, ist class, 1887 o 
 
 2nd 34 
 
 3 r d 130 
 
 Poor-law valuation 1576 
 
 Rent, 1881 ... 2067 
 
 Average poor rate, last ten years y. in the 
 
 Paupers in workhouse o 
 
 Distance of workhouse from islands ... 30 miles 
 Numbers receiving outdoor relief 43 
 
 Grand jury works on island, Spring assizes, 1887 o 
 
 Grand jury cess ^34 izj. 2d. 
 
 Vide return made in 1801 by Most Rev. Edward Dillon, 
 D.D., Roman Catholic Archbishop of Tuam (Lord Castlereagh's 
 Correspondence, vol. iv. p. 126). I can find no subsequent 
 return. 
 
 t Charles's " Irish Church Directory."
 
 112 STATISTICS OF ARAN. 
 
 Crown rent (sup., p. 45) i&r. 5^/ 
 
 Quit rent (sup., p. 45) ^148^.4^. 
 
 Labourer's wages is. per diem 
 
 spring and harvest is. 6d., with diet 
 
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 SPECIMEN OF TYPE. 
 
 4 THE MERCHANT OF VENICE ACT i 
 
 Salar. My wind, cooling my broth, 
 
 Would blow me to an ague, when I thought 
 What harm a wind too great might do at sea. 
 I should not see the sandy hour-glass run 
 But I should think of shallows and of flats, 
 And see my wealthy Andrew, dock'd in sand, 
 Vailing her high-top lower than her ribs 
 To kiss her burial. Should I go to church 
 And see the holy edifice of stone, 
 And not bethink me straight of dangerous rocks, 
 Which touching but my gentle vessel's side, 
 Would scatter all her spices on the stream, 
 Enrobe the roaring waters with my silks, 
 And, in a word, but even now worth this, 
 And now worth nothing ? Shall I have the thought 
 To think on this, and shall I lack the thought 
 That such a thing bechanc'd would make me sad ? 
 But tell not me : I know Antonio 
 Is sad to think upon his merchandise. 
 
 Ant, Believe me, no : I thank my fortune for it, 
 My ventures are not in one bottom trusted, 
 Nor to one place ; nor is my whole estate 
 Upon the fortune of this present year : 
 Therefore my merchandise makes me not sad. 
 
 Salar. Why, then you are in love. 
 
 Ant. Fie, fie ! 
 
 Salar. Not in love neither ? Then let us say you 
 
 are sad, 
 
 Because you are not merry ; and 'twere as easy 
 For you to laugh, and leap, and say you are merry, 
 Because you are not sad. Now, by two-headed 
 
 Janus, 
 
 Nature hath fram'd strange fellows in her time : 
 Some that will evermore peep through their eyes 
 And laugh like parrots at a bag-piper ; 
 And other of such vinegar aspect 
 
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